# What is the optimum gauge for headphone cables?



## jamato8

I have the HD650's and from what I have read the cable that comes with them is a very small gauge. In IC's I like 28 gauge and some go for 30 but in 10 to 12 foot cables for headphones I am not sure.

 thanks,

 John


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## Cyrillic

I use 22 gauge for IC's, btw. 28? That seems a little small to me...


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## Wodgy

18 gauge would be reasonable. If you're going for a run of more than a couple feet the smaller gauge the better because the resistance per foot is lower.


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## jamato8

I misstated the gauge of the flat silver I use. It is about 23 gauge. 

 I think that while 18 gauge may work I am not sure of the best configuration and gauge though 18 should be right in there. 

 John


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## NotoriousBIG_PJ

I've had amazing results recabling my ps-1's using 28awg Silver Plated Beryllium Copper from this link: http://www.auralthrillsaudio.com/DIY%20Store.htm

 The increase in smoothness, clarity, detail etc. has blown me away. I wish I could send my headphones around for everyone to hear, but then I wouldn't get to hear them hehe. The only downside is solid core wire isn't the best choice for a headphone cable durability wise.

 Biggie.


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## Illah

18 awg might be too fat, think that you'll need four strands to make a headphone cable. If you do any braiding (which you should) it will make them even fatter due to the twists and turns in the cable. Add any shielding or techflex and now it's even fatter.

 I use 22, though I've thought about 20. 20 is probably the biggest I'd use though.

 --Illah


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## Wodgy

There's no real reason to braid the cables if you're going to shield them. It only increases capacitance. If you'd like to try 20 gauge cables, Canare 4S6 would be a good choice. Four 20 awg strands in the main bundle:
http://canare.com/index.cfm?objectid...7B533548A55172
 Not shielded though. You'd have to add that yourself if you wanted it.


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## jamato8

I used to make and sell high purity silver IC's and then a company called Wave Technology stole my idea and had more money to run with it. So I realized I had been thinking about the cable as an IC and not a speaker wire. So what I did, though this is contrary to the guage I thought would have worked, was to use a close, very close lay for the ground and positive conducting wire. I used 22guage magnet wire as the negative leg with 30 gauge bare 99.999 silver in the same 16 gauge teflon tubing. I used two of these (one for the right channel and one for the left) with an extra ground from where the two wires join from the headphones (three 16 guage teflon tubes twisted to the jack), about 18 inches away.

 I could tell at first that the bass, which I thought would be wanting, was deep and solid but the rest had to break in. The highs were a bit sharp and the mids sucked. Well it has gotten along on the breaking in trail and this is an outstanding sounding cable. It is much better than the original that came with the headphones in "all" respects. I used 14 gauge silver for the pins that go into the headphones and I used shrink tubing around each pin and then a couple of pieces arount both pins, done in a tasteful manner, so that the pins fit correctly into the headphones and do not fall out (it also looks pretty good). The pull for taking the pins out is about the same as the original with much better material and they are easy to put in and take out.

 John


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## rehbstar

what is the maximum gauge we can use for earphones so that its stays strong without compromising with sound quality?


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## Speedskater

rehbstar said:


> what is the maximum gauge we can use for earphones so that its stays strong without compromising with sound quality?


What is the smallest cable that you can use?
That depends on the headphone's impedance curve and the length of the cable.


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