# Does anyone have the iPhone LOD pinout?



## aamefford

Hi all,

 My lovely wife bought me an iPhone for my birthday! I've discovered that the LOD pinout is different. I know Ken at ALO is making a LOD for the iphone. I have not found a DIY pinout diagram for the iphone, as I have seen for the iPod. Does anyone have the pinout, and if so, would you be willing to share?

 I like the iPhone well enough to consider parting with my 30 gig 4g photo if I can solve the LOD issue through DIY. Apparently the phone has to be powered down, the cable inserted and then powered up in airplane mode. I'll have to convince myself that this is not too much of a PIA also 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ...

 I guess plan B is to DIY the line out caps on my 4g for the "good" portable source and use the iPhone for the "easy" portable source.

 Thanks in advance for the help everyone!


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## MrJoshua

I also want to find the iPhone Line Out pinouts so that I can DIY... Surely someone must have found these by now?


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## FallenAngel

I thought that it was the same pins 1-4, but to use them you have to have the music playing before connecting the LOD or some funky variation of the sorts, just do a Google search for it, there are lots of threads on other forums about it.


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## joneeboi

I am interested in the matter as well. My friend's iPhone didn't work on my Mini^3 when I wanted to show off how much better sound could be, but then it didn't work (to my shock but not to my surprise). Anyway, this is the best I could find.

Mike Kruckenberg: iPhone Dock Extender Cable (with USB data sync)

 Read the comment. It doesn't make all that much sense to me, but since you have an iPhone in front of you, you can test it out yourself and interpret what dude is saying.


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## fatman711

The pinout is different than a regular one as stated by ALO. Whether or not that information is true is up to you to find out. I'll do some researching and try to add something later.


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## stevenkelby

Nice find Joneeboi!

  Quote:


 1K resistor between pins 11 and 21 and a link to pin 30 
 

Anyone tried this?

 I don't have an iphone but a mate wants me to make him a LOD for his.


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## joneeboi

That seems to be the easiest way to get a line out signal besides buying a SendStation Pocketdock. It's only something like 25USD+shipping, though not as fun or cheap as making your own cable. I wonder if this will allow you to listen to music while the phone is on, since I could make neither heads nor tails of all the rubbish being passed around on the various iPhone forums Google gave me. The supplied iPhone dock has a line out, but that's only with airplane mode on, IIUC. Let me see if I got this right:

 1) Music can be obtained with regular LODs, but airplane mode must be enabled.

 2) Music can be obtained with special LODs, with the 1K resistor between pins 11 and 21 (and somehow connected to pin 30).

 According to pinouts.ru, pin 21 is the accessory indicator/serial enable. With 1K between here and pin 11 (serial ground), that means there is a docking station connected. Does that mean that LODs with 1K between pins 11 and 21 can play music with the phone on? Someone please weigh in here.


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## MrJoshua

The original docking cradle that came with my iPhone (and the extended docking cradle that came with my iPhone Bluetooth Headset) both allow line out audio with the phone on. You do get some occasional interference from the phone, but it's not bad.

 So, a 1k between 11 and 21 - Shouldn't be too hard. But what about this link to pin 30? Does it mean link pin 30 to pin 21???

 And no... A standard LOD cable cannot be used with the iPhone under any circumstances (as far as I've been able to test).


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## FallenAngel

So to make things faster and easier, who wants to measure resistance between outputs and pins on one of these iPhone OEM docks and figure out what pin 21 is connected to?


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## ryPhone

I measured between pin 21 and pin 1 today and came up with 310k. I don't have small enough probes in front of me right now, but I would suspect that pin 1, pin 11, and pin 30 are the same (ground). 
 I'm planning on making a line-out adapter to use in my car. I'd get the SendStation one, but I'm annoyed that they used the type B connector instead of the *way* more common mini.


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## joneeboi

I checked the continuity between pins 1/2, 11 and 29/30 on my 4G, and while 1/2 and 29/30 are connected, pin 11 (serial GND) isn't connected to the conventional GNDs of 1/2 and 29/30. I think it may be connected via whichever accessories may need it. Is that what we need to do? 310K isn't listed on the pinouts.ru site, and Google searches aren't really showing anything either. Very interesting.


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## MrJoshua

I've got it working!!!

*No resistor required!*

 Tie pin 1 & 2 together (1 = Ground, 2 = Audio Ground)

 Tie 1 & 2 to 11 (Ground & Audio Ground plus Serial Ground)

 Pin 3 = Right Audio

 Pin 4 = Left Audio

 Basically, as soon as you touch pin 1 to pin 11, the audio stops playing out of the on-board speaker and is routed to pin 2/3/4 as per normal LOD.

 You DO get the "This accessory is not made to work with iPhone" message - Just press yes to turn airplane mode on, or no to continue.












 Happy Happy Joy Joy!

*Edit for clarity:*

 Pin 1 = Ground (Connect to Pin 11)
 Pin 2 = Audio Ground
 Pin 3 = Right Audio
 Pin 4 = Left Audio
 Pin 11 = Serial Ground (Connect to Pin 1)


 Normal disclaimers apply - Do this entirely at your own risk!!!!!!!


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## stevenkelby

Genius, thanks!

 So you don't have to restart the iphone to start using the line out?

 I've got some soldering to do!


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## MrJoshua

You don't have to restart the iPhone...

 Plug modified LOD in
 Wait for the message
 Press Yes or No (I press No)
 Play your music through LOD

 (Also works if music is already playing... Music comes out of the speaker until you press Yes or No).

 Normal disclaimers apply - Do this entirely at your own risk!!!!!!!


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## stevenkelby

Wow. Good work!

 I wonder why Kens require a reboot?


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## MrJoshua

Excuse the "Ghetto" Hot Glue


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## joneeboi

Very interesting. Thanks for the work, MrJoshua. Now we just need to spread this over the interweb, since it seems like no one knows how to get a line out signal from the iPhone. And to make things clear, pins 1 and 2 are connected on the iPod board, so there isn't any need to solder then together in your connector. For that matter, you could just use pins 15 and 16 (both GND) since they're closer. Thanks for sharing.


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## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joneeboi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very interesting. Thanks for the work, MrJoshua. Now we just need to spread this over the interweb, since it seems like no one knows how to get a line out signal from the iPhone. And to make things clear, pins 1 and 2 are connected on the iPod board, so there isn't any need to solder then together in your connector. For that matter, you could just use pins 15 and 16 (both GND) since they're closer. Thanks for sharing._

 

Nice, should work.

 Congrats MrJoshua

 Perhaps a 1K from Pin 21 to ground we'll have it recognized as a real iPhone accessory. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anybody have an iPhone dock that can measure resistance between pin 21 and ground?


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## MrJoshua

I tried a 1k resistor between 21 and ground and it made no difference to the message that pops up.

 (I've digged this BTW 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


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## flashbak

Yes, I can attest to the configuration working since I built my cable awhile back from that exact same link. As far as I know Ken never had it right to begin with since his configuration required the iPhone to be rebooted etc...Upon multiple requests for the pinout from various people here, he never did supply any info to help!

 Pinouts for Dock connector:

 Pin 2: GND
 Pin 3: Right Channel Line Out
 Pin 4: Left Channel Line Out

 Pin 11 should have a 1K resistor between it and pin 21, and also a jumper wire from pin 11's end of the resistor to Pin 30 of the dock. I've been using this for awhile and it works fine.


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## JonnyIce

oh man...who can i commission to do this for me? i have a feeling if i try i make fry something important.


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## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JonnyIce* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_oh man...who can i commission to do this for me? i have a feeling if i try i make fry something important. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

This is no more complicated than any other iPod connector, just an extra little wire to make it work and as far as I know, a resistor if you want to skip the accessory message.


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## aamefford

Wow, thanks everyone for all the help and experimentation!


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## shinew

before the ipod connector comes, this is my portable setup


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## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shinew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_before the ipod connector comes, this is my portable setup 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









_

 

Hey, can you measure resistance from pin 21 to 11 and 1/2/30


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## shinew

deleted, see my post below


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## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shinew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sure, it's 3.6k._

 

Thanks buddy, but which one is this? Pin 21 to 11 or Pin 21 to 1? Just to make sure


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## shinew

sorry, I misread it last night, stayed up too late & drank too much 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 actually from pin 21-1/2/30 is 357K, 21-11 is 11.65M.


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## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shinew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sorry, I misread it last night, stayed up too late & drank too much 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 actually from pin 21-1/2/30 is 357K, 21-11 is 11.65M._

 

Perfect, thanks!

 A quick note, I'm guessing this is backward compatible, have you tried this with any of the iPods?

 Also, one more measurement 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 11 go ground 1/2/15/16/30 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm not sure which it would be connected to, but I'm hoping for a short on these.


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## shinew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FallenAngel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perfect, thanks!

 A quick note, I'm guessing this is backward compatible, have you tried this with any of the iPods?

 Also, one more measurement 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 11 go ground 1/2/15/16/30 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm not sure which it would be connected to, but I'm hoping for a short on these._

 

they're all measured around 11.25M.


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## flashbak

Yes the cable will work with IPods too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 After I made the one for my iPhone I tried it on iTouch, and it worked fine.


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## MrJoshua

Flashbak....

 Did you use any resistors?

 Mine works fine without any resistors and just pin 11 shorted to pin 1.

 If you did use resistors, do you still get the "This accessory..." message?


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## flashbak

Yes to both your questions. I used a 1K resistor. That info was gathered from someone who inspected the inside of an Apple Universal Dock. Anyway, message doesn't bother me since it's a reminder to turn on Airplane mode.


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## shinew

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MrJoshua* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Flashbak....

 Did you use any resistors?

 Mine works fine without any resistors and just pin 11 shorted to pin 1.

 If you did use resistors, do you still get the "This accessory..." message?_

 

i modded a crappy ipod lineout cable as well for temporary use without the resistor, it works (message pops out).


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## MrJoshua

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shinew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i modded a crappy ipod lineout cable as well for temporary use without the resistor, it works (message pops out)._

 

Great news


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## JonnyIce

I have one of those monster cable car adapters for iPod...its a charger with female mini for audio out. Haven't tried the audio part with iPhone but I'm sure it doesnt work...the charger does work
 after it throws the "airplane" message at you. Would it be possible to mod that adapter to work as LOD for
 iphone? Apologies - I'm new to this game!


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## flashbak

Shortly I'm going to start building additional iPhone dock cables, and I'll try that new pin 1 to pin 11 jumper config without the resistor.


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## MrJoshua

I just made a short insulated jumper between these pins... Not too hard if you've got a needle-point iron.

 Let us know how it works out for you.


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## jlipton

Sorry but I'm still a little unclear. Has anyone figured out a way to construct the connector so the "accessory" message does not appear? Also, do you think there is any sort of risk of damage to the iPhone just jumping pins 1 and 11 without a resistor?


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## MrJoshua

Not sure JLipton... 1 and 11 are both Ground pins though, just for different things (Ground and Serial Ground).

 You're not JLip from London are you?


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## jlipton

no. San Fran. So what do you think is the theoretical reason for the resistor?


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## MrJoshua

Different values of resistors across certain pins let iPhones/iPods know what's connected to them.

 The method I've found is just simpler - I don't mind getting the option to turn it to airplane mode


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## jlipton

thanks. That's great work


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## eldwar

Sorry, I'm also a bit unclear about this, but do you have to set the phone in flightmode? Sounds very unpractical to me... Just bought myself some d770's and a pa2v2, and waiting for them to arrive, but if I understand you correctly, i don't know how much i'll use them with the iphone...


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## MrJoshua

Nope, you don't need to turn on flight mode...

 The message pops up, asking if you do want to turn on flight mode, but you can say either yes OR no and you'll get Line Out audio regardless


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## nineohtoo

For those who have made one already:

 What happens when you get a call? Where does the audio get routed to? I'm curious because I want to use my iPhone in my car, and my headunit has an aux input, and I'd prefer to get a line out signal as opposed to using the shure adapter i've been using. It's kind of important for me because of the fact that you can't drive w/o a using hands free setup in California very soon.

 My other option is to get the 2008 model of my head unit because it has bluetooth and iPod connectivity, so I can use hands free calling, and get a line out signal. But then I'd have to find someone to buy my head unit(which I'm very happy with), and then fork up more money for the new one. Thanks for the input.


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## NumpXP

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *eldwar* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, I'm also a bit unclear about this, but do you have to set the phone in flightmode? Sounds very unpractical to me... Just bought myself some d770's and a pa2v2, and waiting for them to arrive, but if I understand you correctly, i don't know how much i'll use them with the iphone..._

 


 i'm having pa2v2 and use it with iphone. I must turn on the airplane mode coz the EM radiation sounds unbearable and it occurs every every minute or so. to me airplane message is a plus.


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## skyline889

Don't know if it'll work yet but as a tip for you guys, can't you just use two wires for the ground (One connected to pin 1/2 and one connected to pin 11) instead of making a jumper, then solder both ground wires to the ground pin on the 3.5mm male side?


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## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *skyline889* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't know if it'll work yet but as a tip for you guys, can't you just use two wires for the ground (One connected to pin 1/2 and one connected to pin 11) instead of making a jumper, then solder both ground wires to the ground pin on the 3.5mm male side?_

 

No reason it shouldn't work.


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## JonnyIce

So I had this Monster iPod Car Charger I got through work (gratis) a while ago and have been using it to charge the iPhone. It does give you the "airplane" message every so often, but you can tap 'no' and there aren't really any problems. I noticed it had a mini jack, so I figured it was line-out....I tried it out with my Tommie and it worked. There are a couple of caveats though...the volume seems to fluctuate depending on which album you're on, and you can not use the regular volume control to change it. Also, the EQ in the iPod Options Menu still is active and I am having trouble finding a good fit...so far "flat" is the best option. 
 Question: Can I cut off the cable with the car adapter on it if I just want to use it as a LOD? Photo below:






 High rez here: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3091/...3ff31415_o.jpg
 excuse my messy desk.


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## joneeboi

*beating dead horse*

 I jumpered 11 to 15 and I get sound to my PIMETA. I get the airplane message when I do this, and the iPhone tells me, "This accessory is not made to with with iPhone" and asks if I want to turn on airplane mode. I tried the 1K resistor from 21 to GND, but the same message popped up. For the record, there is continuity between all three ground locations: pins 1/2, 15/16 and 29/30. This detail signifies that one can connect pin 11 to any of these locations to the same effect. I connected a line out dock with the 30 pins into the iPhone dock's rear entry, and I couldn't find any the resistance between 11 and GND that others have reported. Perhaps you all can clue me in.

 Testing the iPhone with the "accessory" connected, it appears that the music is paused when you take a call. Also, taking out the LOD with music playing will also pause it, another difference between the iPhone and iPod lines. You won't hear the phone call through the line out, so you will be removing the headphones to take a call. I didn't hear any of the interference that was mentioned, but I wasn't holding my phone right up against the amp.

 I hope that clears things up for the confused.


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## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joneeboi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very interesting. Thanks for the work, MrJoshua. Now we just need to spread this over the interweb, since it seems like no one knows how to get a line out signal from the iPhone. And to make things clear, pins 1 and 2 are connected on the iPod board, so there isn't any need to solder then together in your connector. For that matter, you could just use pins 15 and 16 (both GND) since they're closer. Thanks for sharing._

 

Just bump into this thread cos I have to make a new LOD for my friend's iPhone.

 According to your post, is it correct that I should use:

 Pin 3,4 for L,R audio signal.
 Pin 15 and 16 tied together for G ?

 Does anyone make an iPhone LOD without using any resistors?


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## stevenkelby

Hi Thuan Tran,

 Use 2, 3 and 4 for the signal and ground, just like a normal dock, then use a tiny short piece of wire soldered from pin 11 to pin 15.

 Pins 1,2,15,16,29 and 30 are all "ground", they are all connected to the same trace inside the ipod/iphone, so you can use any of them for ground.

 You can use the same pin (1,2,15,16,29 or 30) for audio ground and to connect to pin 11, or different pins, it doesn't matter as they are all connected anyway.

 You must connect one of them to pin 11 though for an iphone/touch LOD to work, it's just easiest to use pin 15 as it's closest to pin 11.

 You don't need to use any resistors.

 Hope that makes it clear!


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## Lil' Knight

As helpful as usual, Steve 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Got it


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## kennysabarese

noob warning apologies if this is not the right place for this post.

 i'd like to wire my 3G iphone to my car and accomplish a few things. 

 Charging (i have a usb car charger that works already)
 Line out audio
 Remote control
 No airplane mode warning

 i've been looking through this thread and am trying to figure it out but can't put all the pieces together from the forum

 thanks!


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## FallenAngel

remote control? Not likely it was ever discussed, this isn't "standard" plug and play.

 The others are OK:
 Line out : read first page
 Charging : might as well use the 12V you have in your car electrical system and wire it to FireWire
 Airplane mode : haven't seen a solution yet


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## joneeboi

Actually, the iPhone 3G doesn't have any more FireWire circuitry, one more reason why I'm sticking with my pre-3G iPhone.

You can’t charge the iPhone 3G on (some) iPod Audio Systems - Apple Gazette


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## joneeboi

I don't know if this tidbit is common knowledge yet or not, but I tested the iPhone 3G with my pin 11-grounded LOD and it does indeed work.

 As you were.


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## Lil' Knight

I've heard that the iTouch gen 2 has different pin-out.
 Anyone can confirm this?


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## joneeboi

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f70/ip...-photo-359077/

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *KB* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am in the process of making a stocked iPhone line out dock cable and will post photos and details here in this thread. All of my *ipod* LOD cables will NOT work with a iPhone because the iPhone requires that a few pins be activated and up until now I have not stocked any iPhone cables ready for sale. *IMPORTANT* The new 2G iTouch with built in speakers are much like the iPhone. A normal iPod LOD will not work with a 2Gen iTouch, you must use one of these iPhone LODs to send the signal to your amp. I recently bought a 32gig 2Gen iTouch and confirmed all this.
*
 Instructions for use*

 1. Plug in ALO iPhone/iTouch cable*
 2. When asked if you would like to use in airport mode choose yes, if you want.
 3. Use with your amp.

 The iPhone cable also works fine with any ipod. 

 *the phone can be on, no need to power down the phone

 Thank you all,

 Ken_

 

It probably needs pin 11 to be grounded like in the iPhones.


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## Lil' Knight

lol
 marketing hype.


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## philthy

Is it possible to open one of these and adjust the pins to have it become compatible with the 2G Touch/iPhone? Has anyone done this before?


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## ruZZ.il

Probably not very easily. Those docks usually get glued shut with good glue.


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## joneeboi

I did open an Apple-supplied iPod-to-USB cable, and there were the usual USB pins in their slots, but the rest of the holes were filled up with some sort of epoxy. Good thing those docks are so cheap, but I'm not sure whoever made that would fill the other holes with epoxy or glue. That is a glue-required dock, however. Is it possible? Sure. Is it worth the trouble? Most likely not.


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## Lil' Knight

You'll stand a good chance destroying the LOD when trying to open such a hard-clued dock like that.


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## UglyJoe

Has anyone confirmed that tying pin 11 to one of the ground pins in the LOD will activate the LOD for the second gen iPod touches?


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## Lil' Knight

I've made many LODs with that configuration without any trouble. They all work fine with Touch and iPhone.


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## joneeboi

So the other day I opened up my iPhone 2G dock. I think what Apple did was print the board on three or four layers and cover it all up with the ground plane. I'm not sure what the dozen test points lead to, and I measured the different combinations of resistance between pin 11, 21 and ground and I didn't find anything conclusive. Here's a link to the datasheet for the HCF4098, a dual monostable multivibrator: linky.





















 Here's a link to the datasheet for the HCF4098, a dual monostable multivibrator: linky






























 Again, we find positions for DZ. I searched up acronyms for DZP like the ones in and around the iPod docks and all I got was "Double Zeta-Polarization Contracted Gaussian Basis Set." Anyone?


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## CanadaDude

DZ - Diode Zener ?


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## AnalogArsonist

@CanadaDude
 Yeah, zener for input/ESD protection or part of a simple voltage regulator circuit.

 I'm still trying to find out how to keep the accessory message from coming up. I can't imagine why it's not on google. All I can find are stupid ipod values which obviously aren't the same. Assuming the values someone posted here are correct:

 assume 1, 2, 15, 16, 29/30 are common.

 pin21 to common = 375k
 pin11 to common = 11.25M
 pin21 to pin 11 = 11.65M

 This makes me believe the circuit looks like this:

 -------375k-------<--pin 21
 | 
 | 
 ------11.25M------<--pin 11
 |
 |
 GND

 Has anyone tried using 375k from pin21 to common? The pin21 to pin11 being 11.65Mohm, like another poster measured, makes sense because 11.25M + 375k is about 11.65M.


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## AnalogArsonist

Ok I just hooked up a 47k and a 330k in series for a combined value of 377k from pin 21 to pin 1 (common). I am not seeing any accessory message and I've tried it ten times now. I will need to get a probe to actually verify that there is continuity but I've triple checked my breadboard. So maybe this will let you use LOD without going into airplane mode. I'll build up my mono audio circuit again tomorrow and see what happens.


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## joneeboi

I'll try that tonight and let you know what I come up with.


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## AnalogArsonist

Here is what I'll try..not sure about what to do with the serial gnd pin (11) but I think it has to be in some defined state for audio to be redirected to line out.

http://analogarsonist.blogspot.com/ <--this has the image I'm trying to post but readable.


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## joneeboi

I just checked. I put in the resistance you mentioned and indeed, it doesn't give me the accessory message. The flip side is that audio still comes out the speaker. Try again. =T


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## AnalogArsonist

But I don't think the line out is related to the accessory pin. I think I just tied pin11 to pin1 (gnd) and pin21 to pin11 with a 1k resistor last time and the line out worked. What did you do with pin11 this time?


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## joneeboi

I tied pin 11 to ground and put in a 390K resister on pin 21 (it measured about 380K on my cheapo DMM. Close enough right?) and music didn't stop coming out of the speaker like it does with my grounded-pin-11 LODs. I'll try that 1k resistor again if you say it worked. It hasn't worked for me before, but I'll give it another shot anyway.


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## AnalogArsonist

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joneeboi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tied pin 11 to ground and put in a 390K resister on pin 21 (it measured about 380K on my cheapo DMM. Close enough right?) and music didn't stop coming out of the speaker like it does with my grounded-pin-11 LODs. I'll try that 1k resistor again if you say it worked. It hasn't worked for me before, but I'll give it another shot anyway._

 

It's just baffling no one that has figured it out is publishing it...I didn't want to rip apart my dock but I might have to. It's such a pain to get open and I felt like I was breaking something so I stopped last time.


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## AnalogArsonist

OK, well the 375k resistor to ground off of pin 21 didn't allow line-out. As soon as I float the 21-pin though, the audio switches to LOD but then the accessory message pops up. I wrote an email to Apple and we'll see what becomes of that.


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## joneeboi

It must have something to do with the the "Made for iPod" and "Made for iPhone" certifications.


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## CptanPanic

I just found this thread, and want to encourage all participants. I have been wanting to buy a car charger/line out adapter since the iphone came out, but to no avail. So I hope you guys can find out how to get line out without "accessory warning"
 Thanks,
 CP


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## AnalogArsonist

Captain: you can still use the line out on the iphone, you just have to leave the accessory pin floating. You will get the warning but the music won't stop playing.


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## stokessd

IF you guys are interested in the car dock side of this 3G iPhone issue, I'm currently modifying a $7 Dension IceLink to also charge the iPhone 3G. You can read the saga here:

Sheldon’s World: Things that interest me…


 As for the accessory warning, I suspect that it's tied to the resistance on pin 21. The problem is that for the ice-link serial control to work, the resistance on that pin needs to be 500K. So I think I have the choice of the annoying warning or head unit control. I'll take the head unit control. BTW, the dialog goes away after a few seconds. 

 Hope this info helps you guys. 

 Sheldon


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## ruZZ.il

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *UglyJoe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone confirmed that tying pin 11 to one of the ground pins in the LOD will activate the LOD for the second gen iPod touches?_

 

**SECOND GEN IPOD TOUCH TESTED**

 Following other recommendations here, I tied pin 11 to pin 30, and that to pin 11 via a 1k resistor. It works perfectly on a second gen ipod touch (briefly tested, successfully, on first gen too). Inserting the dock routes audio output from either the speakers or the headphone out, directly to the dock. Removing the dock pauses playback and goes back to previous state on play . No messages/errors/etc.
 This is old news.. just a clarification.


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## sugrhigh

I've been following this thread pretty closely as I have an iPhone I'd love to have higher quality sound on but this is the first time I have anything to contribute

 anyway, I found this "thread" (it's really only one post) and he says his bluetooth audio adapter that I will assume is "iPhone certified" had a 95k resistance between the accessory pin (21) and ground.

 will someone try this and let us know how it goes?

 also, how does the line out signal compare to say the iMod/diyMod?


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## apanossi

I just tried the mod described by ruzz.il on my iPod car integration device that I currently have. The solution works for my iPhone 3G to route music through line-out but I still get an accessory nag message. Also, I use the Scosche adapter to get charging function for my iPhone 3G. Can anyone describe what wattage they use for the 1K resistor? I used a 1/8 and a 1/4 amp and both seemed to work but I'm wondering if this detail is creating the nag screen message.


----------



## joneeboi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sugrhigh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_anyway, I found this "thread" (it's really only one post) and he says his bluetooth audio adapter that I will assume is "iPhone certified" had a 95k resistance between the accessory pin (21) and ground.

 will someone try this and let us know how it goes?

 also, how does the line out signal compare to say the iMod/diyMod?_

 

I'll give it a shot tonight and see how it goes.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *apanossi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone describe what wattage they use for the 1K resistor? I used a 1/8 and a 1/4 amp and both seemed to work but I'm wondering if this detail is creating the nag screen message._

 

It shouldn't make a difference. All the iPhone will see is the resistance between the pins.


----------



## joneeboi

95K resistance didn't work. I tried it with pin 11 grounded and not grounded. The music stopped and the message came up only when 11 was grounded. When pin 11 wasn't grounded and the 82k and 12k resistors were connected from 21 to ground, the music didn't stop.


----------



## fakcior

I have a question. How should I connect LOD's pins and resistor to proper work with iPhone 2G (with no messages?)

 Regards


----------



## ruZZ.il

join the experiment


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sugrhigh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been following this thread pretty closely as I have an iPhone I'd love to have higher quality sound on but this is the first time I have anything to contribute

 anyway, I found this "thread" (it's really only one post) and he says his bluetooth audio adapter that I will assume is "iPhone certified" had a 95k resistance between the accessory pin (21) and ground.

 will someone try this and let us know how it goes?

 also, how does the line out signal compare to say the iMod/diyMod?_

 

that depends on what quality caps you are using for DC coupling. if using backgates in an LOD the difference is quite noticeable but not HUGE, because the iphone 3G actually has a brilliant lineout IMO; if using with a quality larger capped dock the difference is substantial... very substantial


----------



## AnalogArsonist

I finally got a new multimeter (thank you baby Jesus) and ripped apart my dock, destroying it in the process. However, I'm creating the schematic as I type this. Pin 11 goes into the transistor Q1 but right now I can't tell if it's the base, emitter, or collector (it could be a MOSFET too, shouldn't matter). I can't tell what the part number is for the transistor but it should be obvious when I'm done testing all the pins. I need a magnifying glass..my eyes hurt now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Anyone want to make speculations on how this circuit works together? There is a monostable multivibrator and a transistor with a handful of caps and resistors. Pin21 and Pin11 both go to the transistor eventually.


----------



## AnalogArsonist

Someone try this: short pin 7 to pin 2 (audio grounds), float pin 21, and ground pin 11. If that doesn't work try putting a 357k resistor from pin 21 to GND. Audio channels need to be hooked up too, obviously. As far as I can tell, pin 11 and pin 21 are only connected through transistor Q1. If someone has a magnifying glass they should try to see if there is a part number on Q1 because I sure as hell can't see with the bare eyes.


----------



## Juaquin

Thanks for checking AnalogArsonist, can't wait to hear the final diagnosis.

 I made a LOD with the 1K resistor method and I can confirm that it outputs audio (of course, the airplane mode message does still pop up). 

 I've run into a bit of a problem using the LOD with my Fiio E5 - the LOD output is of high enough amplitude that the lowest setting on the E5 is a little too quite, the next is on the high end of my listening volume, and the next is way too loud - and that's only going part way up the scale. Of course my CmoyBB works fine with the LOD, but the E5 doesn't have enough resolution in volume adjustment, so I've been using the headphone jack to supply the E5.


----------



## AnalogArsonist

Juaquin, I think the lineout of these devices is meant to be controlled by an amp/receiver/whatever. On the IPhone dock's lineout, the volume cannot be controlled by the phone. This is because of the expectation that an amp will be hooked up. You could always just put a volume control of your own on there (sliding variable resistor like some headphones have?).

 Also, getting lineout from the iphone is easy it's just that I think everyone wants to do it without the airplane mode message.


----------



## Juaquin

Yeah, I know the dock output is a set amplitude and there's no control on it. I was just pointing out that it's rather high, which means each notch of volume on my Fiio E5 amp makes a large jump - so large that its hard to get a comfortable volume. I don't have that problem on my Cmoy, as it has a potentiometer, allowing smaller jumps and thus more control over the volume.

 Anyways, thanks for ripping apart the dock, can't wait to see how to disable the message.


----------



## fakcior

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *stevenkelby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Thuan Tran,

 Use 2, 3 and 4 for the signal and ground, just like a normal dock, then use a tiny short piece of wire soldered from pin 11 to pin 15.

 Pins 1,2,15,16,29 and 30 are all "ground", they are all connected to the same trace inside the ipod/iphone, so you can use any of them for ground.

 You can use the same pin (1,2,15,16,29 or 30) for audio ground and to connect to pin 11, or different pins, it doesn't matter as they are all connected anyway.

 You must connect one of them to pin 11 though for an iphone/touch LOD to work, it's just easiest to use pin 15 as it's closest to pin 11.

 You don't need to use any resistors.

 Hope that makes it clear! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Is this work with iPhone 2G or 3G or both?

 Regards


----------



## Juaquin

iPhone 2G = iPhone 3G for purposes of the dock and headphone connector, so both.

 I've been thinking about doing a split IC cable, with a male dock going into the iPhone and a mini connector AND female dock on the other end. That way you can charge (using a regular charger) and listen to music at the same time. Might be an interesting project. Are there an caveats there, such as needing a correct resistor combination for charging or anything?


----------



## AnalogArsonist

Happy new year everyone. I believe I have found the proper resistance that the dock appears as to the IPhone. 66k. I wrote up why that is on my blog and if anyone cares to read it they can go here. Currently, I have line-out audio and the message no longer comes up. I'd like it if others tried this as well so I know it's not just me going crazy.

 As for the charging circuit, I believe that has been covered before but I have a charging/line-out circuit that runs off a 9v battery on my blog as well. It has nothing to do with resistance but with a proper voltage on USB D+ and D- pins.


----------



## maxmath

@Analog: Instead of a linear regulator circuit, you can use a boost circuit as discussed here => Minty Boost! - USB charger for your gadgets

 Disclaimer: I have nothing to do with the attached link. Just something that I might do in the future for my iPhone.


----------



## ruZZ.il

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Juaquin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..each notch of volume on my Fiio E5 amp makes a large jump - so large that its hard to get a comfortable volume..._

 


 This is a result of a (too) high gain setting on the amp. The gain determines how much the signal is amplified, and the travel that you get from its volume control accordingly (I'm sure you know this already). If you were to use higher impedance headphones, you'd get smaller volume increments, with a lower "highest" volume though. A Higher gain also amplifies the noise a bit more, but the higher the impedance, the more "voltage driven" (opposed to current driven) the headphones are, and the noise level is less effective. For these reasons, low gain is selected for low impedance / sensitive cans, so that the noise level is lower, and you get to use more range of the volume within your comfort zone. Higher gain is used with higher impedance cans accordingly. I'm not familiar with your amp, but if it has a gain switch, use it, otherwise, you may be able to mod it. it's usually just a matter of switching out a resistor or 2 per channel..


----------



## fakcior

@AnalogArsonist
 Can you draw simple scheme of only line-out pins with 66k resistor, because I don't understand that complicated scheme on your blog.
 Regards!


----------



## Juaquin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ruZZ.il* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not familiar with your amp, but if it has a gain switch, use it, otherwise, you may be able to mod it. it's usually just a matter of switching out a resistor or 2 per channel.._

 

Unfortunately the Fiio is a tiny little integrated amp, and ripping it apart to replace Rf and/or Rs to change the ratio (and thus gain) would probably destroy the poor thing. Just wanted to point it out to anyone who was considering using a LOD with an E5.


----------



## Juaquin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AnalogArsonist* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Happy new year everyone. I believe I have found the proper resistance that the dock appears as to the IPhone. 66k. I wrote up why that is on my blog and if anyone cares to read it they can go here. Currently, I have line-out audio and the message no longer comes up. I'd like it if others tried this as well so I know it's not just me going crazy._

 

Sweet, I'll give it a shot soon when I make my next LOD.


----------



## AnalogArsonist

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fakcior* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@AnalogArsonist
 Can you draw simple scheme of only line-out pins with 66k resistor, because I don't understand that complicated scheme on your blog.
 Regards!_

 

The last post I did was the simple schematic.

 1. Tie Pin 21 to GND with a 66k resistor
 2. Tie Pin 11 to GND
 3. Pins 3 and 4 go to their respective left and right speaker "+" terminal
 4. Pin 2 goes to the "-" terminal of both speakers

 I think that's it. Note that there are many GNDs and I think they are all connected except for pins 2 and 7.


----------



## AnalogArsonist

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *maxmath* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@Analog: Instead of a linear regulator circuit, you can use a boost circuit as discussed here => Minty Boost! - USB charger for your gadgets

 Disclaimer: I have nothing to do with the attached link. Just something that I might do in the future for my iPhone._

 

Thanks Maxmath. I actually came across that when I was first trying to build a charger for my iphone. I chose to use a 9V battery just for testing purposes and when I build my own custom dock it will be plugged into the wall and be a POL switching regulator. For a portable charger I think the Minty Boost is great!


----------



## jediknight0

OK, can someone explain this to me:

 I have an iPhone 3G that I want to hook up to my head unit through the back AUX/CDC port. I also have a working car charger that takes 12V in and has a USB port for charging that works with the iPhone.

 NOTE: For the record, the charger outputs 5V, 2.8V, 2.0V and GND on the USB pins.

 I hook up the left/right/gnd audio pins in the dock connector to the audio pins on the head unit. I also hook up pins 11/15/16 to pin 21 through a 66K ohm resistor (actually two 33K in series). Everything works great, no "not designed for iphone message".

 I hook up the USB pins in the dock connector to the car charger and the power for the charger to the 12V/GND lines in the AUX/CDC port of the head unit. The phone charges, but I only have left audio. The right audio is instead various electrical noise - not noise on top of the audio, just noise. I unplug power from the car charger without unpluging anything else and immediately I have left and right audio again.

 Also wierd is when the USB charger is attached, about every 4th or 5th time I attach the connector to the iPhone I get a "this device is not compatible with the iPhone" message - but it's a slightly different message than I used to see.

 Any ideas?


----------



## Juaquin

Is it possible some of your wires are touching inside the connector? It seems like maybe one of the USB pins is touching that audio channel, resulting in it overpowering whatever audio was coming through that channel with noise.


----------



## jediknight0

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Juaquin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it possible some of your wires are touching inside the connector? It seems like maybe one of the USB pins is touching that audio channel, resulting in it overpowering whatever audio was coming through that channel with noise._

 

Unlikely. At the dock connector, audio is pins 2/3/4 while USB is pins 16/23/25/27 at the other end of the connector. On the other end of the cable the pins are definately not touching.

 I'm wondering if the 66K ohm resistor could have something to do with it? Maybe if I replaced that resistor with one of the more commonly used values it would work right (but have the "not for iPhone message). The only problem is that soldering on the connector is so tough that if I try and re-solder anything I'm pretty sure the connector will get destroyed.


----------



## AnalogArsonist

Juaquin is right about the noise. It sounds like the right channel is shorting to something, like shorting a speaker with a 9V battery. Did you disconnect the entire USB connector or just the 5V rail when right channel starts working? Recheck all your connections and make sure you know for a fact which side pin 1 is on. Also, there are no "commonly used values" for the iphone (hence the last half of this thread). All that "commonly used" information you will find is based on the old IPODs and the associated peripherals. There are no "made for the iphone" products out yet. You can modify them to get them working by floating pin 21 but that's it. The 66k is why you aren't getting the "not made for iphone" message, at least the first four times..


----------



## jediknight0

I've triple-checked all my connections and can't find anything shorting, but it's hard to check at the dock connector itself due to the size.

 Here's the setup - the left/right/gnd audio pins (2/3/4) are connected to the left/right/gnd audio pins on the back of my head unit. Pins 11/15/16 are shorted together. Those pins are connected through the 66K resistor to pin 21. The combination of 11/15/16 (consider it one pin now) and pins 23/25/27 (the USB pins) are connected to a USB connector. That USB connector is pluged into a car charger and the power for that charger (12V/GND) is connected to the 12V/GND (not audio GND) lines at the back of the head unit.

 Using the cable like this I only get left audio and right noise. If I unplug the 12V/GND to the car charger, I get left/right audio.

 I just don't see how in the worst possible case I could be shorting anything except maybe pin 1 (also a GND of some sort), but I my multimeter says I'm not...


----------



## AnalogArsonist

Is your charger stepping down the voltage to 5V or does it go into the phone as 12V straight from your wire harness? Does the phone go into charging mode with the line-out hooked up?


----------



## hartphoto

I'm thinking of doing a conversion of a XtremeMac 'Incharge Auto' charger XtremeMac InCharge Auto, Black to also have the line out in a separate cable. The charger works great, no 'This accessory' message. 

 What I was thinking is to copy the pinout they have for the charger feature, but just add in (with a new connector) a LOD feature.

 Then, I'll have a split connector out of my iPhone 3g. One for charging, one for LOD.

 The cable on the Incharge is so long, I'll use part of it to make my LOD cable, and everything will 'match'. 

 Workable?


----------



## Juaquin

jedi, do you have a multimeter with a connection test (where it will create a tone if the two terminals create a circuit)? This would make it really easy to test if various pins are touching - just put one lead on each pin (from wherever you can access the pin, top or bottom or even leads to them) and if it beeps, we have a problem.

 Other than that I'm not sure why only one channel would be affected like this. Maybe that channels wire accidentally came in contact with a shield on a cable, and at some point that shield is hitting something on the USB power circuit? I'm just guessing here.


----------



## Ludi

Hi,

 I just tried my board with the 66kOhm resistor. It seams to work quite well. I only received the popup message (not designed for the iPhone) once from about 20 tests.

 I am able to charge the iPhone, the line out works very good (left and right) and I can send commands over the serial interface.

 BUT!!!
 I am still not able to make a phone call over the line out! Does anyone have any further ideas?

 Thanks
 Ludi


----------



## wigging

I am still getting the accessory warning when I plug in my line out cable to my iPhone 3G. I'm using a 66.5 kOhm resistor from Digikey (part no. 66.5KXBK-ND) between pins 21 and 30 (GND). I am also connecting pin 11 to pin 30 (GND). Does the resistance need to be exactly 66 kOhm and do I need to connect all the ground pins to eachother? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## AnalogArsonist

Wigging: mine was exactly 66kohm just because that was the sum of what I had available. According to the dock, it is 357k in parallel with 82.5k + the channel resistance of the IC. Do you have a potentiometer you could play with? Ideally, the best way to get the resistance value would be to plug the phone into the dock and then measure pin21 to GND. Mine was broken so I couldn't do it. BTW, Digikey has a resistor kit that is inexpensive.

 Ludi: I'm glad it kind of works. The value must have to be very accurate or we're missing something. Do you have to be jailbroken to play with RS232 (so much potential)? With regard to the phone call over line out, could you be more specific as to what it's not doing? Does the audio start coming from the phone speaker? It might not be possible...


----------



## Ludi

Today I connected the iPhone to my own car adapter several times. I receive the message unsteady (about every 10 try). 
 If the iPhone is unlocked (the screen) the message does not appear, but if the iPhone is locked (press power button) I receive the message sometimes. Maybe the resistor with 66k is not the right one.

 For using the RS232 the iPhone needs to be jailbroken, but I use only the standard calls from the iPod functions, therefore this is not necessary. Now I can use my steering wheel (car) radio buttons to jump to the next song and so on. That works fine!

 I connected the line out from the phone to the line in from my car radio. For example if I hear music (iPod functions) and than receive a phone call you can hear the ring ton over the car speakers. But If I accept the call the speech switches to the iPhone speakers! If possible I would like to hear the phone call over the car speakers as well.


----------



## jediknight0

For the record, I've solved my problem of noisey left-only audio when charging - I was being an idiot. I didn't short any lines at all, but I swapped the audio ground and right audio lines. Once I built a new cable I saw the problem and corrected it, the problem went away.

 Thanks to everyone for the help.

 Oh, and I can confirm that using a 66K resistor (actually two 33K resistors in series) or a single 68K resistor I don't ever have the "not for iPhone" message. It seems very solid and consistent for me.

 This 66K-68K info is great - I think this is the only forum online that has that info. Everyone else seems to still be in the dark about the iPhone 3G.


----------



## ridax

.


----------



## hartphoto

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ridax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_._

 

Considering the price of admission into the 'Made for iPhone/iPod' program, I'm betting the same.

 Good thing the subscription service worked before you edited your post


----------



## joneeboi

Thank you, AnalogArsonist, for solving this puzzle. It will help everyone on the internet, I'm sure, as time goes on. There are a lot of people who want this little bit of info, I imagine. Gracias. I posted links on hackint0sh's iPhone hardware forum to this thread and to your blog as well.


----------



## aphillippe

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, it has helped me greatly.

 I thought I would report on how I’ve got on with my iphone 3G, an ipod breakout board and my trusty soldering iron.

 I just want a dock with line out. I want to keep the airplane mode screen, as the interference is bad on my amplifier. Should be fairly simple, having read the previous nine pages, right? Just connect 1 to 11 and then use 2, 3 and 4 for audio line out.

 Wrong. I don’t know if it’s my iphone, or the breakout board, but it just wouldn’t work. I fiddled for about an hour, trying different connections and finally the following worked.

 Connect pins 1, 15 and 21 to pin 11. Use 2, 3 and 4 for line out.

 I tried all combinations of the above once I’d got it working with no joy. I don’t know if there’s a problem with the grounding on my iphone, cos 15 and 1 should be connected internally? But without connecting them on the breakout, no joy.

 Anyway, if people are struggling to get their 3G to play ball, try the above.

 Next thing to try, adding USB charging too.


----------



## joneeboi

You might just want to skip the connection to pin 1 altogether and just have 15 and 11 connected. I usually don't use pin 2 for audio ground because it cleans up the soldering a bit. You could use pins 15, 16, 29 or 30 for audio ground to avoid any type of shorting of the audio pins altogether. In a previous LOD, I used pins 3 and 4 for audio and connected 15 to 11 as ground. It's not all that big a deal, but I find the construction of LODs is more about reliability and mechanical integrity than about sound quality. Surely SQ is the main reason we use LODs, but I haven't heard much of a difference between wires used. It'd be hard to tell when the wires are usually only a couple inches long.


----------



## aphillippe

I tried without pin one, just 15. It didn't work, even though they're supposed to be connected in the iPhone. Dunno it that's changed in the 3g or if it's just mine that's weird. Also, i thought that it would work without pin 21 connected but i didn't. Still, got it working in the end.


----------



## iSpike

Using an Adapt Car Holder cradle for iphone 3G which got the USB charging already working.
 Line-out was reached by using pin 2,3,4
 Getting line-out to work: connect pin 1, 15, 11 (all gnd)
 Initially connect pin 21 to gnd as well, still had line-out but no USB charging.


 I used 10K resistor between gnd and pin 23, which made line-out working and USB charging both.

 please note that the cradle provide now with the modification:
 pin 23 = +5v
 pin 27 = 2.6v
 pin 25 = 2.6v.

 This is working for me in my configuration. I will run it for some time to check the stability.
 ------------------------
 Normal disclaimers apply - Do this entirely at your own risk!


----------



## MoogLe

Hey guys,

 this thread has been a huge blessing!

 I have an Alpine head unit with the older type AI-Net connectors and could not find an iphone compatible wire so i decided to modify the one i bought on ebay which has a headphone jack AND an ipod connecter connected to it.

 Now the way i got it, the ipod connector doesnt do a single thing when connected to the iphone and the headphone jack works, the cool thing is that i can take calls through it very nicely.

 So i decided to cut off the ipod connecter and modify it,

 here's what i'm planning to do:

 Iphone plug to AI NET:

 Pin 19,20 Iphone plug to AI net Pin 7 Battery (do pins 19 and 20 both have to be connected?)

 Pin 29,30 Iphone plug to AI net Pin 8 Power Supply Ground (Same question as above, do both pins need to be done or is either one fine?)

 Pin 3 iphone plug to Ai net Pin 4 Right Signal

 Pin 4 Iphone plug to AI net Pin 6 Left Signal

 Pin 2 Iphone plug to AI net Pin 5 Signal Ground

 Use 66kohm from pin 21 (ACC) to pin 1 (GND)

 Use a tiny short piece of wire soldered from pin 11 to pin 15

 Can anyone please give me a confirmation if this looks good? i have attached the pinout of the AI NET connector.


 My other question is, has anyone thought about using a switch to toggle between the Line Out on the Iphone and a Headphone jack which woiuld also be connected to your radio to be able to take calls on the phone? This way you would listen to music through the LO but hit the switch when getting calls.


----------



## Juaquin

It might be easier to connect the 66k resistor to pin 15 and 21, rather than 1 and 21. 15 is closer, and 1 is surrounded by all the audio pins, making it hard to get to.


----------



## Juaquin

As far as a switch, that switch would have to be in the 66K resistor loop - it is that resistor that tells the iPhone "hey, we've got an audio connection here, start outputing music to the dock." If you leave the resistor connected it will continue to output via the dock, even if the audio pins on the dock aren't connected to anything.


----------



## Juaquin

Not that this hasn't been confirmed, but I'll put in another confirmation that the 66K resistor works perfectly. I need to find a better source of 33K resistors, or a single 66K, because the 33k's i'm using are way too big to fit into a smaller connector (I started with the largest to make sure it all fit).


----------



## MoogLe

yea i got mine at radioshack and they're not gonna be fitting either, still dont know how exactly i'm going to close the connector


----------



## joneeboi

I prefer to use the Type E male connectors from Ridax. They have larger insides and can be opened for servicing. I also wanted to add that I haven't once gotten an accessory message with this 33k+33k config; I didn't have a 68k either. =T I wonder if this will just become a thing where everyone will just start using pairs of 33k resistors because AnalogArsonist did. There's already at least four of us that have done it already.


----------



## Juaquin

Yeah I don't have a good source of 68k yet, and the 33k I have are huge. I used a Type E as well - works like a charm but it's huge. I have some type F's and I'm planning on trying that as soon as I find a small 68k. I also got a QB (the REALLY tiny one) to play around with, but it will be awhile before I figure out how to get a resistor in there without bridging stuff and making a mess.


----------



## ridax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Juaquin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also got a QB (the REALLY tiny one) to play around with, but it will be awhile before I figure out how to get a resistor in there without bridging stuff and making a mess._

 

Remove unneeded pins and you should have enough room for the resistor.


----------



## Good Times

About to start my iPod Touch 2G LOD, using the 1K resistor. 

 Can anyone clarify what type I need to get? It seems that there's 1/2w, 1w and 5w available, I assume the smallest (1/2w) is the one to go for? 

 PS thanks for the great info guys, great to finally find a definitive thread on this.


----------



## Juaquin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ridax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Remove unneeded pins and you should have enough room for the resistor._

 

Yeah, I always remove the unneeded pins. But it will still be really tight soldering. I'm definitely going to try 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 @Good Times
 You want to use the 66k resistor. 1/2W is still pretty big, you want either 1/4 or 1/8.


----------



## Hase

What pins are we connecting on either side of the 66k-68k resistor?

 15 + 11 --> resistor --> 21 ?


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hase* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What pins are we connecting on either side of the 66k-68k resistor?

 15 + 11 --> resistor --> 21 ?_

 

correct or you can substitute any other ground pin for 15


----------



## Hase

I got that assembled but still got a warning when I plugged it in for a test. Is it supposed to be sporadic? Does it work for the first gens?


----------



## Juaquin

It should now work with any iPod/iPhone model. Using pin 15 as ground is easiest since it's near 11 and 21. If you're still getting the message sometimes it might be that your pin 15 and 21 are somehow shorting once in awhile, possibly due to too much exposed wire touching, resistor leads touching, etc. This would bypass the resistor, and you'd end up with the message.


----------



## Hase

I can't get my meter to read anything but the proper resistance between 15 and 21, and between 11 and 21. Even before I jammed it all back into the connector housing, I plugged it into the phone and got the warning.

 I think there's a pretty good air-gap in there.


----------



## Juaquin

Looks good to me. Perhaps you got one of the wrong pins, like 23 instead of 21? I always worry about being able to count those tiny pins correctly.


----------



## Hase

I counted a dozen times while I was yanking them and then again just now. I've made two in the last 24-hours the same way to the same end. Can someone with a first gen confirm that my configuration worked for them?
 (that is: 11+15>33k>33k>21)

 Maybe there is something happening differently in my phone...


----------



## lucifix

Hey all,
 I am new to the LOD thing, please help 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I read that "tying pin 11 to one of the ground pins in the LOD will activate the LOD for the second gen iPod touches".

 May I know how do we "tie" pin 11 and to which ground pin (pin #?) do we tie it to? Is a resistor required for an iPod Touch 2nd Generation?

 Thanks in advance!


----------



## ruZZ.il

'tying' reffers to coupling the signal. in this case, it means making an electrical connection, or soldering a piece of wire between 2 points to 'short' them together. If you go through the last few pages of this thread, take a look at some of the pics peoople have posted, and the schematics of sorts, you should get the idea. You'll see that on top of hooking up Left, Right and Ground signals in the LOD, you also have to hook up a resistor in between some pins in order to let the ipod touch / iphone know that you want to hook up an audio device.


----------



## lucifix

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ruZZ.il* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_'tying' reffers to coupling the signal. in this case, it means making an electrical connection, or soldering a piece of wire between 2 points to 'short' them together. If you go through the last few pages of this thread, take a look at some of the pics peoople have posted, and the schematics of sorts, you should get the idea. You'll see that on top of hooking up Left, Right and Ground signals in the LOD, you also have to hook up a resistor in between some pins in order to let the ipod touch / iphone know that you want to hook up an audio device._

 

Thanks for the reply!






 this was taken from your post earlier!

 Is it a must to connect a resistor? I am getting the really small dock connector 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, not sure if a resistor will fit.

 Can I just use a wire to connect the two points?
 Lastly may I confirm that the ground wires to connect are 30&11, and 30&21?


----------



## ruZZ.il

for the ipod touch 2g, the above schematic works. a resistor IS *required*. 
 Note that the resistor is between (30 and 11) and (21) (ie, 21 is not connected directly to 11 or 30). I'm not sure how this functions with the iphone 3g though. The latest for that is to have (11 and 15)--|66k|--(21). This probably works for the 2g too, and may be more universal. maybe someone else can comment on that. 

 What is your primary use?


----------



## lucifix

I need the LOD for listening to music on my iPod Touch 2nd Generation.

 Do they sell really small SMD (surface mounted) resistors of this type? I am afraid the traditional ones will not fit into the teeny QB connector case


----------



## ruZZ.il

you'll have a harder time with SMD in there, specially if you don't know of their existence. I'm sure you could find a small 1/8'th Watt 1K resistor at an electronics store. The ridax dude here said it should be ok if you remove the un-needed pins, so even a normal 1/4 W 1K should fit. may need some creative packing.. but I could see it working. I'm sure any type of resistor is find in there too.. as long as it fits.


----------



## lucifix

This is confusing.

 Do I get a 66k ohm or 1k ohm resistor to fit in there? It's quite a big difference, at least it seems


----------



## davidw89

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lucifix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the reply!






 this was taken from your post earlier!

 Is it a must to connect a resistor? I am getting the really small dock connector 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, not sure if a resistor will fit.

 Can I just use a wire to connect the two points?
 Lastly may I confirm that the ground wires to connect are 30&11, and 30&21?_

 

Does this work with iPhone 3G? Have you got any idea where i could purchase one?


----------



## lucifix

it does, but you have to build one yourself, or buy one from a store.

iPod/iPhone Dock Connector ordering
 is a good place to find DIY stuff.

 Qcables sell ready made ones.


----------



## lucifix

Ok I just purchased 2 types of resistors:

 1.2kΩ, 0.6W, 6.2 mm, and a
 68kΩ, 0.4W, 3.6 mm resistor.

 They were like only 8 cents each!

 Which one works better, the 1.2kΩ or 68kΩ version?


----------



## ruZZ.il

Well, the 68k one and the pins pointed in on the last page is reported to work for the 3g, and most probably the touch 2g too. 

 The ~1K works perfectly on the touch 2g with the pins in the illustrations I posted, but I haven't tested them on the iphone 3g. I think the search continued for the 3g after the touch 2g was figured out, so I guess there were still issues. what issues? I didn't follow. if anyone can attest to the 68k working on a 2g too, I'd go with that for universality. if you don't care bout an iphone, the 1k will work. I suggest that whatever you do, don't glue that dock closed before it works!


----------



## Juaquin

The 1K will work with everything, however it will result in a "not compatible" message on the iPhone 3G.

 The 68k will work for everything including the 3G with no message. I've tested both on a 3G and can confirm this (however, I'm not so sure about the Touch 2G).


----------



## warehouse

I recently purchased the Audeo PFEs which have the built in mic/control function and was wondering if there's any way to implement that functionality using the dock connector for iPhone 3G. My goal would be to build a dock connector with a USB charge cable out and a headphone out connector (4 conductor) which could provide the line out as well as the mic/control accessibility. Looking at the pinout.ru diagram it looks like all of the controls are done on the serial port but the Ridax site offers a dock connector with a pigtail which supposedly does what I'm trying to do (minus the USB). 

 Any ideas? My plan is to modify my external amp to pass through the mic connector so that I can still control everything with my IEMs.


----------



## warehouse

Double Post Deleted


----------



## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Juaquin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 1K will work with everything, however it will result in a "not compatible" message on the iPhone 3G.

 The 68k will work for everything including the 3G with no message. I've tested both on a 3G and can confirm this (however, I'm not so sure about the Touch 2G)._

 

I tried my 1k version on my 2G touch, perfect, on the iPhone 3G it was rough and staticky sound. And echoey. Really bad. Is this the resistor or something else? Going to try a 68k anyway.... Strangely the plug (from Qables) was smooth and tight on my Touch but stiff on the iPhone.


----------



## Juaquin

The resistor is nowhere near the audio signal (at least, it shouldn't be). I have a 1k resistor LOD that I made and have no problems with it (other than the "not compatible" message popping up). I can't say why it sounded bad on your phone - it should work exactly the same on both devices. Did you turn on the Airplane Mode on the phone so that there would be no EM interference?


----------



## Evergreen

Is anyone in the DIY community building / selling LODs incorporating this research? I have several LODs which work with my older iPods. I would like to be able to use iPhone 3G with pocket amp, without annoying messages. 

 I can do this with the Apple iPhone dock, but it is a bit cumbersome in the pocket. 

 Ideally, I would like to see a LOD incorporating the new micro-USB jack for charging while playing.


----------



## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ruZZ.il* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The latest for that is to have (11 and 15)--|66k|--(21). This probably works for the 2g too, and may be more universal. maybe someone else can comment on that._

 

I've just finished this and tested this on the iPhone 3G, iPod Touch 2G, iPod Nano and 3rd Gen iPod. Works flawlessly on all. No messages on iPhone or iPod Touch. I used a single 68kohm resistor just to make it easy. 

*I think everyone can now consider this the universal solution*, thank you all for your advice/input.

 PS joining pin 11 and 15 can simply be done by bending the pin legs. Easier than soldering an extra jumper wire. Also, my question (re echo) a few posts up was answered by the fact that after re-inerting pins 2-4 after soldering, they had come out slightly just before gluing. I recommend not pulling them out, just soldering whilst they're in.


----------



## GingaNinja

Slightly offtopic - i'm interested in getting line out on my iphone (1st gen), and when I've saved up my couple of dollars, I will order a ridax connector.

 However, I would also like to get _line-in_ to work. Has anyone had success with that? I'm wondering if the method described in this thread will allow line in to work without any other modification?


----------



## Juaquin

For line-in just use the headphone jack wired to a mic or whatever input you want (female 3.5mm, whatever). Someplace (I forget where) sells the 4-ring plugs that you'd need.


----------



## GingaNinja

The only issue with that is that the mic input is mono, whereas the line-in is stereo (and possibly better quality?).

 But of course, I can live with it, it was just if it was easy to do, the line-in is preferable - plus it opens up a whole possibility of recording from vinyl, or mixing desks straight to the iphone, for example.


----------



## Hase

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Juaquin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 68k will work for everything including the 3G with no message. I've tested both on a 3G and can confirm this (however, I'm not so sure about the Touch 2G)._

 

I've still not been able to get this to work *without* the warning on a 1st Gen iPhone. Can you confirm on the 1st Gen? It does line out, but gives me the warning. I've made several, if you can confirm that it works, then there's a revision issue or something else different between them.


----------



## joneeboi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've just finished this and tested this on the iPhone 3G, iPod Touch 2G, iPod Nano and 3rd Gen iPod. Works flawlessly on all. No messages on iPhone or iPod Touch. I used a single 68kohm resistor just to make it easy. 

*I think everyone can now consider this the universal solution*, thank you all for your advice/input.

 PS joining pin 11 and 15 can simply be done by bending the pin legs. Easier than soldering an extra jumper wire. Also, my question (re echo) a few posts up was answered by the fact that after re-inerting pins 2-4 after soldering, they had come out slightly just before gluing. I recommend not pulling them out, just soldering whilst they're in._

 

I suggest you lose the ground wire near the audio pins and solder your ground to pins 11/15. It frees up the wiring near the audio pins, plus it makes for a more solid connection. Not the worse thing in the world, but it's more mechanically reliable that way.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hase* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've still not been able to get this to work *without* the warning on a 1st Gen iPhone. Can you confirm on the 1st Gen? It does line out, but gives me the warning. I've made several, if you can confirm that it works, then there's a revision issue or something else different between them._

 

68K works on my iPhone 2G 16GB. I'm not sure if you mean 1G or 2G because the 1G came in 4GB and 8GB while the 2G came in 8GB and 16GB.


----------



## Hase

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joneeboi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_68K works on my iPhone 2G 16GB. I'm not sure if you mean 1G or 2G because the 1G came in 4GB and 8GB while the 2G came in 8GB and 16GB._

 

Well now you have me terribly confused. I said and you quoted, "1st Gen." Is it better if I type "1G 8GB"? I'm not sure that's relevant or any clearer.

 At any rate, before we keep saying that the 68k solution provides "universal, no warning" function, I'd like to hear someone with a "1G 4GB" or a "1G 8GB" attest to its warningless function. If someone can do that, I'll keep at it, but for now, I don't think that 68k is a "universal solution."

 (Caveat for clarity again, 68k LOD works, but pops up warning for me.)


----------



## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joneeboi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I suggest you lose the ground wire near the audio pins and solder your ground to pins 11/15. It frees up the wiring near the audio pins, plus it makes for a more solid connection. Not the worse thing in the world, but it's more mechanically reliable that way._

 

Agree, mechanically that would be a heap better. I was just hesitant because 1 and 2 were classified 'audio ground' and 11, 15 etc as ground. Is there a difference, or do they all eventually lead to the same point?


----------



## Good Times

Edit; tried it, works a treat, always learning on this forum. 

 As stated, looks stronger, especially since the majority of wires now point straight out. 

 Thanks.


----------



## Juaquin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joneeboi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I suggest you lose the ground wire near the audio pins and solder your ground to pins 11/15._

 

While this works, pin 11/15 are regular ground, not audio ground like the other pin. It may not cause a noticeable difference, but if you're already soldering two pins in an area you might as well do a third. It's not *that* bad.


----------



## joneeboi

Juaquin:

 I've found 0 Ohms between pins 1, 2, 15, 16, 29 and 30 with my DMM in quick tests. I can double check this later, but I recall them being the same signal. Plus, I would say that it is *that* bad. Unless the cord is fastened and secured reliably, the ground pin can easily short the right channel with only a little bit of movement.

 Hase:

 I made the distinction because not everybody does, so I wanted it to be clear that it actually was the 1G. Did you get your iPhone before the infamous price drop? 68K works on my 2G, and it seems that it doesn't work on the 1G. Is that clearer?

 Good Times:

 Glad to hear it. Enjoy your new and improved LOD.


----------



## Juaquin

By that same logic the left and right pins could easily short. I just solder them carefully, check that there is not continuity between the wires, and then put in a dab of hot glue to prevent them from shorting later on due to movement. 

 As far as regular vs audio ground, on some iPod models they may or may not be connected, but I do know that the pinout lists them separately so personally I wouldn't play around with it.


----------



## joneeboi

Even if the left and right channels are next to each other, reducing the clutter will still help. It is DIY after all, so do whatever you please. I'm just offering another option. I don't want to say too much before double-checking, so I'll post more after I check my iPod logic board collection tonight.

 Besides, what fun is DIY if you're not playing around with things?


----------



## joneeboi

I checked my iPod nano 1G, iPod 3G, iPod 4G click wheel, iPod 4G photo and iPhone 2G. They all have continuity between pins 1, 2, 15, 16, 29 and 30. I think it's safe to say the rest of the iPod and iPhone models follow the same scheme, but if you want to be a real stickler, you can check it out yourself. I used Ridax's breakout board for quick checking.


----------



## Juaquin

Sounds good to me. My only reservation is that you already have a resistor soldered to 11/15, and trying to solder another piece without losing the first is a real PITA. 29 or 30 might be nice but it's all the way across the connector.


----------



## Good Times

That's great news, thanks for checking. My LODs were starting to look a bit crooked from the wire exit! 

 I found that soldering to the 11/15 junction was actually better, because it gave them a bit more 'meat'. I join them by simply bending them together (no joiner wire) so put the resistor wire on top and the ground wire at the base. It feels good. And used your hot glue trick Juaquin, just to ensure it held.


----------



## joneeboi

Good Times:

 Another thing you may consider is connecting the shield to ground on the source side. I can't really tell, but it looks like you're using Starquad or Mini-quad. If you are, you should connect the shield to ground on the source side and not connect the shield on the amplifier side.

Sound System Interconnection

 See number 8 about two-thirds down the page. Starquad (and similar cables) will have more than 2 conductors within the shield, so it's not a perfect comparison; you get the idea. I use two conductors for ground and shield it only on the source side. That way interference isn't introduced into your amplifier as easily. Some of it may still get in there with this method, but at least you did what you could to minimize it.

 Here's an LOD I made a few days ago.


----------



## Good Times

Thanks man. Yeah I'm using star quad (equiv Aussie version!) with the rubber sheath replaced with techflex on that one. That one's terminated with RCA on the other end - will give it a go.


----------



## luckypictures

Okay, so I feel as if I've sufficiently scanned the thread before posting this, if not, please feel free to flame and point me in the right direction.

 I bought a Belkin GoStudio, which, according to Belkin, and the entire internets, does not work for the iPhone and 2nd Gen Touch. I have a 2nd Gen Touch. I know that the pinout is different, but can anyone tell me exactly what I would have to wire to create an adapter to work with the original pinout, so that I can use the touch with the Belkin GoStudio?

 Here's what I figure I need to use it:
 1. Line in - R
 2. Line in - L
 3. GND
 4. Line Out - R
 5. Line Out - L
 6. Serial GND

 I think that's it. Thoughts on how to wire this pig? Also, upon typing this, I feel as if I'm probably going to have to take the GoStudio apart to see exactly what is connected to the Dock Connector, aren't I?

 Thanks for your help!


----------



## Good Times

I don't know what the GoStudio is (or does) but here is a link to the Apple Pinouts, which should be a good starting point to your question. 

Apple iPod and iPhone Dock Interfaces pinout and signals @ pinouts.ru

 By the way, have you tried it yet? I've had two non-apple products that have said they're not compatible with my 2G Touch. One of them worked 100%, the other simply had the "this accessory does not support charging" message which you dismiss, then otherwise works fine. So fingers crossed it's just something like that with the Belkin.....I also know Scoshe do an adaptor for incompatible devices, maybe someone else can shed some light on this or a solution.


----------



## pbrunnen

Hello all,
 Wanted to post to see if anyone else is having this issue. I have a first gen iPhone 8GB running the latest software... I have build the LOD as spec'ed in the forums here with the 66K ohm resistor. I do not see the 'airplane mode' message and I have verified the connections. (Thanks for tip on that one!!) I only end up with the right channel output. When I connect my iPod nano, I have L/R... just not with my phone. The phone also outputs L/R on the dock, so I know the phone is not broken. Have tried two different connectors. Any ideas? Is the pinout different on the first gen iPhone versus the newer ones?

 Thanks!! -Cheers, Peter.


----------



## Juaquin

Pinout is the same. I don't see any reason the left channel would not work on the iphone but would work on the nano. If you're getting any audio at all it means you've hooked up the resistor correctly. It has to be something with the left channel connection - maybe loose or something. Have you tried reflowing it?


----------



## cole4eng

*Absolute LEGEND !!
*
 My headphones sounded like they were dying (well what seemed to be the mic). The vocals were ridiculously quiet and I'd get a lot of distortion. Needless to say I was major ***'d off. So I figured no probs I'll just get myself some new headphones. I shoped around for iPod/iPhone headphones and spent a pretty penny on a few pairs. Of course the Iphone jack is completely different to the iPod jack. I found a rather neat (temporary) solution via 'trimming' the rubber of the jack, this was the plug would be more recessed into the socket and thus appear as the 3.5mm iPhone jack. It sufficed but was nowhere near as good as it's predeccesor.

 So then I soldered new headphones to the original 'stock' iPhone headphones. After much buggering about I found out that I could only get the left channel to work appropriately while the right one had to be disconnected completely. Otherwise I would get the low vocals and much infuriating distortion.

 Now I searched the web for the pinout of the iPhone cable plug. I figured with my extensive electronics background something like this would be easy. Well the hardest thing was to actually get another sync cable that didn't cost my an arm and a leg. Thankfully the second hand dealer had a few in stock so I grabbed both. Got my pliers out and got to work. 

 Much (Much..much) thanks to the person above I could now make a suitable replacement for my headphone problems.

 I used NO RESISTORS.
 To test that it was working I needed NO SOLDERING.

 The only soldering I plan to do is to actually physically solder my headphones of choice to this wonderful new addition to my iPhone accessories.

 As I have the chance to listen to music while I work, I am eternally grateful.






  Quote:


 Pin 1 = Ground (Connect to Pin 11)
 Pin 2 = Audio Ground
 Pin 3 = Right Audio
 Pin 4 = Left Audio
 Pin 11 = Serial Ground (Connect to Pin 1) 
 

Quickly a heads up for other frustrated folks..Pins 1 & 2 are already internally connected in the iPhone so if like me you were wondering how the flip am I going to connect all those wires in that small amount of space it's not required.

 I used the sync cable and did thus;
 Pulled out all of the pins from the plug, i.e. the USB 5V GND and DATA + & -. You are left with the following wires.. RED, GREEN, WHITE, and BLACK. I attached RED to the RIGHT Channel on pin 3. The white wire to the Left channel on pin 4. The BLACK wire to Pin 1.. Then last but not least the GREEN wire to Pin 11. But what about the connection from Pin 1 to Pin 11 you say, well you don't have to make that connection at the plug connector do you. Then with my headphones..
 RED (+) BLACK (GND) --> Right headphone
 WHITE (+) BLACK (GND) --> Left headphone
 Of course not to forget..
 BLACK (Pin 1) also connected to GREEN (Pin 11).

 Also if you choose YES to airplane mode you can't receive or make calls which is rather annoying. So I chose NO and my music playing capabilities weren't (thankfully) affected. 

 I'm thinking it may be wise to also connect an additional standard headphone socket to the headphone wires so that if I want to use PC speakers I can just put that plug into the new socket.. viola iPhone music on the speakers without the headache of messing with dodgy plugs.

 The only problem I've got and will hopefully resolve soon is not being able to adjust the volume on the headphones due to the LINE OUT being at max volume all the time. I think a resistor divider network with a potentiometer should do the trick nicely. I'm pretty sure there are headphones out there with built in volume adjustment that probably have that very same setup.

 I don't usually rant like this but I am exceptionally happy.. no more friggin distortion and low vocals for me.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Couldn't help myself..





 I ripped the plug out of some old speakers, pretty chuffed with how it turned out.

 Next project;
 Fixing the focus on the iPhone camera...grr


----------



## Juaquin

Yeah the camera can't focus worth crap at anything less than a foot. They make cases that have a small lens built in for macro mode, but the camera quality is so bad it's not even worth it. Looking forward to the 3.2MP camera on the 4th Gen.


----------



## cole4eng

***UPDATE***
 Now has volume control..








 Unfortunately the wires are ridiculously thin and they broke on the first night.


----------



## cdhutzler

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hase* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well now you have me terribly confused. I said and you quoted, "1st Gen." Is it better if I type "1G 8GB"? I'm not sure that's relevant or any clearer.

 At any rate, before we keep saying that the 68k solution provides "universal, no warning" function, I'd like to hear someone with a "1G 4GB" or a "1G 8GB" attest to its warningless function. If someone can do that, I'll keep at it, but for now, I don't think that 68k is a "universal solution."

 (Caveat for clarity again, 68k LOD works, but pops up warning for me.)_

 

I found that 68K was working part of the time for me. I tested the resistor value using a potentiometer and found that a slightly higher resistance was a lot better. I ended up using 78K but I think anything in the 75-85K ohm range will do. More on a post if you want...

Carl Hutzler’s Blog » This accessory is not made to work with iPhone and the 68K Ohm resistor


----------



## chaospanda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've just finished this and tested this on the iPhone 3G, iPod Touch 2G, iPod Nano and 3rd Gen iPod. Works flawlessly on all. No messages on iPhone or iPod Touch. I used a single 68kohm resistor just to make it easy. 

*I think everyone can now consider this the universal solution*, thank you all for your advice/input.

 PS joining pin 11 and 15 can simply be done by bending the pin legs. Easier than soldering an extra jumper wire. Also, my question (re echo) a few posts up was answered by the fact that after re-inerting pins 2-4 after soldering, they had come out slightly just before gluing. I recommend not pulling them out, just soldering whilst they're in._

 


 I tried this method and it did not work on my ipod touch 2nd gen. Can anyone help me out on this?


----------



## Good Times

Hmmm, I've never had it not work, but I read on this forum somewhere where a guy found it to work at home on his Touch, but not in the car. He did some tests and said if you bump the 68k up a bit, it will also work in a vehicle environment (eg line out to a car stereo). From memory it was something like 73k or 75k - around there. 

 But if it's not working just plugging in to a portable amp, I'd suspect the resistor isn't your problem. What is the tolerance of your resistor, and have you tested for the actual value? I'm using 5% resistors @ 68k with no issues, also found 1%s were fine. 

 If you're unsure about you you constructed it, can you post a pic so we can have a look and maybe troubleshoot?


----------



## chaospanda

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, I've never had it not work, but I read on this forum somewhere where a guy found it to work at home on his Touch, but not in the car. He did some tests and said if you bump the 68k up a bit, it will also work in a vehicle environment (eg line out to a car stereo). From memory it was something like 73k or 75k - around there. 

 But if it's not working just plugging in to a portable amp, I'd suspect the resistor isn't your problem. What is the tolerance of your resistor, and have you tested for the actual value? I'm using 5% resistors @ 68k with no issues, also found 1%s were fine. 

 If you're unsure about you you constructed it, can you post a pic so we can have a look and maybe troubleshoot?_

 


 Well, here is what I did. I connected the pin 11 with pin 15 by bending it and with a little bit of solder. Next I solder one end of the 68k resistor to pin 21 and the other end to the joined 11/15. Then, I solder Left with left and Right with right and audio ground with audio ground (pin 2). So, in total there is only 6 pin from the ipod connector that is needed right?
 Please verify if this is correct?
 Thanks


----------



## Good Times

That's correct, although you should probably solder your ground wire to the bridged pin 11/15 to save clutter on the left side. But that should definitely work. Is it not working, or is it working but you're still getting the warning message?

 Oh and LOL, I read my last post and realised the reference was only 2 posts higher 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 my bad!


----------



## chaospanda

I mess with it again and broke pin 21 =[ <= noob at diy
 Well, I order a new ipod connector and hopefully I will do it correctly this time.


----------



## Good Times

Always handy to keep a few pins spare that you've taken out, just in case. They're easily removable/replaceable if they break off. 

 I prefer to bend the resistor's leg around to meet the two pins so you don't have to bend any pins.


----------



## benherron

Anyone know if the LOD output below is the same for the new iPhone 3gs?

 1-2 ground
 3- right
 4- left
 link 15 to 11 & connect a 68kohm resistor from this link to 21

 and with this there should be no error message?


----------



## Good Times

I assume so (but haven't tested). Be mindful that using 11 or 15 as ground is far easier to work with that 1 and/or 2. Don't use them at all.


----------



## benherron

Im also struggling to find a 30 pin dock connector here in the uk, neither ebay nor any of our electrical stores seem to have just the basic 30 pin dock connector.

 Any ideas where i could get this vital component? 

 I was looking forward to splicing and dicing my old firewire connector (as its useless nowadays), but other forum posts suggest this is pretty impossible as Apple add a generous dollop of glue and the pins are very, very small.


----------



## joneeboi

Try Qables yet?


----------



## benherron

Sweet! just ordered a few, cheap too due to currency, even got to pay via paypal. Thanks a lot


----------



## chaospanda

I fixed my problem. The problem I had was that pinouts.ru layout the pin 
 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30
 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29

 but from the picture from the first page the pin layout is
 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29
 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30


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## supermorph

i have ordered 2 items from ebay
 i first ordered a dock which does video out

 and recently i ordered a dock like item which streams out the audio to radio frequencies.

 the video out part on my dock doesnt work on my 3g 8GB black "not s edition"
 (kinda expected this)

 and the audio only works on my ipod nano (2g white edition)

 what i wanted to do is somehow either merge them both so the radio works with my 3g output, OR put that radio thingy onto my dock somehow

 the mini radio thingy has a cable similar to the new-er nokia chargers (but with a usb end)

 the stand dock with videoout has usb like mainboards do.


 any help would be greatly appreciated 

 thanks
 supermorph


----------



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## metro_ear

i will try next time ..


----------



## RLembke

You guys rock! 

 I'm just a silent stalker around here every now and then. I recently went from an iPod Touch Gen 1 to an iPhone 3Gs and lo and behold, my Microshar LOD didn't work. Quick search and walla! Followed Good Times post and 20 minutes out of my lunch break and I'm back in business. 

 Thanks everyone!


----------



## ubxf

Line out works great but i can't get line in to work.


----------



## Good Times

Hehe happy to help. Although since that post I'm now just using the bridged 11/15 as my ground which frees up space at the +ve end. Both ways work, just easier with thicker wire.


----------



## RLembke

Anyone find their iPhone gets damn hot when using their LOD? The only other time I feel this thing get this hot is when I'm running some serious apps or I've been on 3G data for a while. Battery life also seems to drain off really fast.


----------



## FraGGleR

Sorry to resurrect, but does anyone know if a 100k resistor will be too much?


----------



## -Eclipse-

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FraGGleR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to resurrect, but does anyone know if a 100k resistor will be too much?_

 

I just made one yesterday w/ a 68 for a 2nd gen touch and it worked perfectly, so if you don't HAVE to use a 100 I'd just do a 68.


----------



## momomo6789

68 worked 10/10 times on the one i made


----------



## Rocko1

Does it matter what wattage the resistors are? Will 1/2 watt work?


----------



## drumlessons

My line out dock connector is working with no problems... my big issue is getting the line in on the dock connector to work. This has been brought up several times but seems to be disregarded. I can't seem to find any sort of answer on this so please help if you know or have the time to help figure it out.

 Anyone know how to get the L & R line-in to work through the dock connector?


----------



## cyberbone

where do you buy the LOD connectors in the states?
 TIA!


----------



## FraGGleR

I don't think there is a source in the states. Ridax is in Germany, but it only took about 4 days for my order to get to me and it was only like $5 shipping. Qables also sells them, but I don't know about shipping costs or time.


----------



## brownandproud

Sorry am i missing something, when you say doesnt work do you mean no music or you cannot adjust the volume. Before i lost my iPhone, it would play music through my Fiio LOD but i cannot adjust volume. Is there anyway around my problem?
 BTW i do understand that you guys want to DIY but just wondering...


----------



## drumlessons

I was able to get mine @ 30-pin Apple Dock Connector iPod iPhone which ships out of LA California.

 Anyone know how connect a working left and right audio input on the dock connector? my audio out works great but I can't seem to figure out how to correctly make the Left/Right audio-in work through the dock connector. I want to use a stereo input. The headphone in is mono (left only).


----------



## mnagali

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brownandproud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry am i missing something, when you say doesnt work do you mean no music or you cannot adjust the volume. Before i lost my iPhone, it would play music through my Fiio LOD but i cannot adjust volume. Is there anyway around my problem?
 BTW i do understand that you guys want to DIY but just wondering..._

 

as I understood it, an ipod LOD cannot be volume adjusted... just sends out a clean, robust signal to your amp


----------



## qusp

yes, if you can adjust the volume, its not a line out


----------



## Oliver.H

Let me ask some stupid stuff..
 I've a USB (to Belkin micro car charger)/ 3,5 mm Stereo (Input to head unit/ auxgate connect) to dock cable which i bought in the shop. I'm using an iPhone 3g with FW 3.1.3.
 I only get a line out signal and the volume slider in the iphone disappears as connecting the cable. If the iPhone is connected to the original Apple Dock i've the volume slider which i like to have also in car.
 I bypass my head unit and connect to an i-sotec auxgate connect. So volume is only controlled by the input device - so i need the volume slider of the iphone in the car.
 I opened the dock connect cable and found a resistor and measured 67.8 k OHM. Regarding this site Apple iPod - iPhone dock Connector Pinout - AllPinouts i need a 1k OHM resistor to get the volume slider?
 My requirements:
 I need the volume slider.
 I don't want to see the "not copmpatible" message.

 So what is the right resistor in my case?


----------



## tthorne

Well I've been doing lots of reading but can't seem to find an answer.  The issue I have is I have a car audio deck (JVC KW-NX7000) and it has a female USB connector to connect to an ipod.  This worked fine with a regular IPOD and I had full control of the IPOD with the JVC deck and all that was on the IPOD screen was the JVC logo.  Fast forward and I have upgraded to a new Iphone 3GS.  Now the JVC deck says that its "not made for iphone" but I was wondering if there was a way to trick the deck into thinking its just a regular IPOD and allow me control through the stereo.  When I connect the iphone it does charge but thats it, the JVC does not recognize the device.  Any help is appreciated!


----------



## apatN

I am still learning about all of this. My first lod refused to work with my iTouch. I used 1-2 for audio GND; 3-4 for right and left; 11 was connected to 15 and that was connected to 21 with a 68kohm resistor. It worked on my gf's Nano but not on my Touch.
   
  Also, when looking at the back of the connector with the top side up is it:
   

```
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29
```
  (found at pinouts.ru)
   
  or
   

```
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30
```
  (found at http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/499986/diy-ipod-lod-cables)
   
  I am using this connector from Qables: http://www.qables.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=359&zenid=4475354db73523d147e0a1ff83fe1fca
   
  My next lod should be a working one and I want to get this straight before I am going to build it. I think I used the wrong pins the first time; it's the only thing that makes sense.


----------



## apatN

Anyone?


----------



## amc

Check the wiki - it has links to the original posts and some pictures that should help you figure out the orientation of the connector so you know what is pin one - on top or on bottom.
http://www.head-fi.org/wiki/diy-ipod-line-out-dock-pinout
   
  and if its not clear, you can always edit it to make it more clear so the next poor bugger doesn't have to go through the same stuff you are...


----------



## lasraik

Sorry if I totally missed it, but what is the wattage on the 68kohm resistor?


----------



## lasraik

Finished my cable and used this pin setup:
   
  Top of connector when plugged into iPod:
   

```
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30
```
   
  I pulled all pins except 1, 2, 3, 4, 11, 15, and 21 out.
   
  Connected 1 and 2 = Ground
   
  Pin 3 = Right channel
   
  Pin 4 = Left channel
   
  Connected 11 and 15 together = soldered one side of the resistor to it
   
  Pin 21 = soldered other end of resistor
   
  Works fine on my iPod Touch 3g.  I've read there is a way to not use a resistor but I went this route to be sure.  BTW, I used a 68k ohm 1/2 W resistor for this.


----------



## Lil' Knight

1/2w might be large to deal with. You could go with just 1/8w.


----------



## lasraik

Well I never could find out or get a response which wattage to use.  So I went with the biggest one I could fit in the connector comfortably.


----------



## qusp

it doesnt carry any current at all, only a logic level signal pulling the pin up to a reference voltage through a resistor divider to tell the iphone its good to go. you could get away with the smallest resistor you can find


----------



## alysony

Also if you ever want to screw around with the ipod connector
   
http://pinouts.ru/PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml


----------



## lasraik

Quote: 





qusp said:


> it doesnt carry any current at all, only a logic level signal pulling the pin up to a reference voltage through a resistor divider to tell the iphone its good to go. you could get away with the smallest resistor you can find


 


  Now you tell me!


----------



## pyrodan

Also to avoid having to put your device into airplane mode you can add a rf choke to the end of the cord that plugs in to your amplifier. The closer to the amp the better. A rf choke is a ferrite ring that you pass the audio signal lines through and it is a inductor that inhibits the high frequency of the GPRS waves but allows the audio frequency to pass through. You could simply steal one from an existing cord or buy one at radio shack or the like. I got mine from a dead playstation controller. run the line through it and wrap it around once over to make a loop and bye bye buzz noise.


----------



## Arlaharen

Anyone tried line in?
  I bought a PodBreakout board and tried soldering jack connectors to the line in pins (connecting the ground to pin 2, as I did with line out):
   
http://www.kineteka.com/PodBreakout-v1.aspx

  I tried it on my iPod Touch 3G and it worked, for awhile. But, when I tried it again it didn't.
  Also, I couldn't record the incoming signal, I just heard it in my headphones.
   
  I didn't use a resistor between pin 1 and 11 and it seems to work fine without any error messages.
   
  Thoughts anyone?


----------



## qusp

anyone else finding iphone v4 to be pickier wrt the exact resistor value? i've had 2 occasions recenetly where i've run out of my normal small 68k0 and had to use 68k2 and finding i'm getting errors, still works, but save old annoying message, same cable works fine on 3g and ipad. i have more resistors on the way, but previously i have used anywhere between 66-69k in a pinch with no issue. edit, i may be mistaken how high i have used before
   
  edit: 66k8 was the lowest i used before, , i just tested by starting at 65 and adding 1k at a time, it starts working at 67 and stops at 68k2, so perhaps some of these weird errors i have seen people report in here could be caused by using really cheap low tolerance 68k resistors  that are in actuality 68.5-69k. i'll find time at some point to run through adding 100r resistors, or did jonniboi do that already?


----------



## frogx345

I'm planning on making a DIY lod for my ipod classic (160GB, newest version, using it with FiiO E5 amp).
   
  I read in an earlier post that the resistor is only used to "fool" the iphone into accepting the hardware.
  In that case, do I even need a resistor in the cable if it's only for an ipod classic? (Therefore I'll only be soldering three wires to the grounds (1 & 2), right (3) and left (4) pins of connector)
   
  Or if I do need a resistor, is there a specific resistor that someone has found to work well with the ipod classic?
   
  Thanks


----------



## qusp

its the same resistor for all of them, there is no iphone, touch, classic resistor, something 67-68k will work on all of them. dont use 1 and 2 for ground, use 15, or 29, since this is your first lod its best to leave as much room as possible, so you dont cause any shorts. all of the grounds are connected internally in the idevice anyway. i would put the resistor in regardless, from memory at least one model classic needs it and you may as well have an lod that works on everything.


----------



## eleventeen

So...noob question but I knew that the sound gods here could answer this question:

When using a shielded cable (Like a Mogami or a Canare starquad) are you soldering the shield at both ends, ie. Dock Connector and 3.5mm plug, or leaving one floating?

The reason I ask is because common procedure is to leave the shield floating at the amp end, but I didn't know if it makes much difference for the length of this cable and it's application.


----------



## HiFi1972

Quote: 





eleventeen said:


> So...noob question but I knew that the sound gods here could answer this question:
> 
> When using a shielded cable (Like a Mogami or a Canare starquad) are you soldering the shield at both ends, ie. Dock Connector and 3.5mm plug, or leaving one floating?
> 
> The reason I ask is because common procedure is to leave the shield floating at the amp end, but I didn't know if it makes much difference for the length of this cable and it's application.


 
   
  You terminate the shield at one end when making unbalanced connections, but in balanced TRS connections, the shield also carries audio information (on the gnd wire) so you definitely want that soldered at either end as well.


----------



## kojl

Does the line-in (pins 5,6) work this way?


----------



## Tywin

I have an old FM transmitter for my iPod that I have used for, oh, the last six years or so. The connector needs replacement, and I have finally gotten the replacement part in from SparkFun. The transmitter is sufficiently old that it does not work for iPads and iPhones, so in the process I will be attempting an upgrade with the 68k resistor on P21.
   
  Will post back with photos when finished.
   
  -T


----------



## liamstrain

I would be curious if this same configuration would work for the iPods as well (e.g. if you make for the iPhone it works for both, but not if you make just for iPod)


----------



## mosesaro

I was wondering the same thing a kojl. If these pins work and we short them with the ground we could make the smae remote as on the headphones. Also does this cable allow you to take phone calls


----------



## Pingupenguins

I ordered some 1/8 watt 68k's will they work? I've seen a lot of people running around with large resistors and I'm not sure if I have enough wattage on mine.
   
  http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/270-68K-RC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIL1QqMQ78gJLqYwjzkwrgRY%3d


----------



## fakcior

Don't worry. It's enough.


----------



## Pingupenguins

Awesome. Is 3.5mm large compared to the pins on a LOD? I was hopping I could make it fit between pins 11 and 21 rather than making it bend back around.


----------



## jeimen

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but this is the best source of iPod LOD information that I could find so I thought that I'd come here looking for help.  The solution that is posted in this thread (pin 11 to pin 15, pin 21 to pin 15 via 68K resistor) works great for my old iPod Touch 2G but it doesn't behave well with my iPod Touch 4G.  With the 4G sometimes it will work fine.  Other times it will initially feed audio to the line out pins but after 20 seconds it will switch to the onboard speakers.  After another 20 seconds it may switch back to line out or it may continue to feed the onboard speakers.  The switching back and forth is a bit unpredictable but the 20 second interval is consistent.  Strange.  
   
  I've got the following connections:
  pin 11 connected to pin 15.  This should send audio through line out rather than the onboard speakers
  pin 21 connected to pin 15 via 68K.  This should eliminate the pop up error on the iPod about accessory compatibility.
  pin 15 connected to pin 16.  This is actually redundant since these are already connected in the iPod.
  pin 2 to common line out audio on car stereo.  This is a line out signal to the stereo.
  pin 3 to right line out audio on car stereo.  This is a line out signal to the stereo.
  pin 4 to left line out audio on car stereo.  This is a line out signal to the stereo.
  pin 16 to USB GND (from a USB adapter).  This is the ground for the 5VDC power supply.
  pin 23 to USB 5 VDC (from a USB adapter).  This is the positive 5VDC supply.
  pin 25 to USB Data - (from a USB adapter).  The voltage on the USB Data connections allows the iPod to accept USB charging.
  pin 27 to USB Data + (from a USB adapter).  The voltage on the USB Data connections allows the iPod to accept USB charging.
   
  On another website I saw that connecting pin 11 to pin 1 and 2, and pin 21 to GND via 500k works for some iPod Touch versions.  Does it matter which GND you connect 11 or 21 to?  Do 11 and 21 both need to be connected for the newer iPods?  Would the connections of the USB data signals conflict with the audio connections?
   
  I can find plenty of examples of the iPod Touch 2G pinout but I can't find a pinout for an iPod Touch 4G.  Can someone give me guidance on the correct connections for reliable line out audio from a newer iPod Touch?  Thanks!


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote: 





jeimen said:


> Sorry to resurrect an old thread but this is the best source of iPod LOD information that I could find so I thought that I'd come here looking for help.  The solution that is posted in this thread (pin 11 to pin 15, pin 21 to pin 15 via 68K resistor) works great for my old iPod Touch 2G but it doesn't behave well with my iPod Touch 4G.  With the 4G sometimes it will work fine.  Other times it will initially feed audio to the line out pins but after 20 seconds it will switch to the onboard speakers.  After another 20 seconds it may switch back to line out or it may continue to feed the onboard speakers.  The switching back and forth is a bit unpredictable but the 20 second interval is consistent.  Strange.
> 
> I've got the following connections:
> pin 11 connected to pin 15.  This should send audio through line out rather than the onboard speakers
> ...


 
   
  Have you tried simply using 2,3,4 for the audio with 11 and 15 bridged?  I have done that for an iPad 2 and it has worked flawlessly.  I can't find the source, but I thought I read that the pop up was done away with in the latest iterations of the OS.


----------



## jeimen

Thanks for the recommendation.  I will give it a try. 
   
  I know that without the 68K resistor from pin 21 to ground I had the pop-up error with iOS5.  I haven't tried it with iOS6 though.  It would be nice if they eliminated the pop-ups.  They were a nuisance rather than a benefit.


----------



## Mahay

Does anyone know if it possible to replace the 68k resistor with a 100k 1/8watt?? Will it work with the all the generation of ipod/ipad (including the newest)?
  Thanks


----------



## qusp

no, generally 67-69K will work theere is no way to cater for ALL, only most, there are a few models that broke from the norm. look at www.pinouts.ru for the ipod/iphone pinout info on all the models


----------



## jeimen

I fixed the problem with connecting my iPod Touch Gen 4 to my car stereo via line out.  Rather than make another custom cable I used a cable from Rocketfish:
http://www.rocketfishproducts.com/products/mobile-audio-video/RF-IPCAU6W.html
  It has a 30 pin iPod connector on one end.  It has a USB connector and RCA plugs for audio left, audio right, and video on the other end.  Before the installation I checked the pinout of the Rocketfish cable to see how it compared to the pinout that was referenced earlier in this thread.  All of the GND connections are bonded together inside of the cable. Pin 21 was tied to Ground through a 500K ohm resistor.
   
  Pin 1 GND
  Pin 2 GND (connects to line out common in RCA plugs)
  Pin 3 Line Out R (connects to line out right in RCA plugs)
  Pin 4 Line Out L (connects to line out left in RCA plugs)
  Pin 11 GND (this being tied to Ground sends audio through line out rather than speakers)
  Pin 16 GND (connects to ground lead of USB adapter)
  Pin 21 500K ohm connection to GND (enables serial communication)
  Pin 23 USB Power (connects to 5VDC lead of USB adapter)
  Pin 25 USB Data - (connects to Data - lead of USB adapter)
  Pin 27 USB Data + (connects to Data + lead of USB adapter)
   
  The 500K ohm resistor on pin 21 was needed to communicate with my iPod Touch Gen 4 and my iPhone 4S.  The 68K ohm resistor on pin 21 worked for my iPod Touch Gen 2 and my iPhone 3GS.  Hopefully this will help others who encounter this type of communication problem.


----------



## BamboszeK

I have small problem with DIY LOD for iTouch 4G. Pin 2 is GND, 3 right channel, 4 left, 11 connected to 15 and then to 21 with 68k smd resistor. But my 68k resistor measures only 66.8K. I've tried with Touch 2G and 4G, with both my LOD didn't works. I have connector from Qables - http://www.qables.com/shop/images/pdf/ipodpinout.pdf Connections looks good, tested with multimeter. What's wrong? 66.8K is not enough, or maybe i need that 500k resistor from pin 21 to GND?


----------



## FraGGleR

Try leaving off the resistor and pin 21.  I have a Touch 3G that works without issue with a LOD using just the 2,3,4, 11, and 15 pins.


----------



## huckfinn

Hello,
  I was wondering if anybody can help with some "strange" issue:
  I have a lod connector like this one:
   

  and also this by ALO Audio:
   

  They are both about 3years old.
  I use them to connect my rockboxed ipods with amps or to listen to ipod with my cans directly from LO.
  I recently tried them with my iphone 4s but.....no can do. The music still comes out of iphone's own "speakers". Funny thing is that I also have a "reasonably" old Onkyo nd-s1 digital dock and Kef Picoforte iPod dock and they work just fine with iphone
  !!!!!
  Before going and buying some new lod connector I was wondering if anybody can give me some hint at what the problem might be?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## Anthony1

Are you able to pry open the black shell without breaking it and take a pic?


----------



## huckfinn

Hi,
  Thanks for your answer.
  Here it is:


----------



## Anthony1

Quote: 





huckfinn said:


> Hi,
> Thanks for your answer.
> Here it is:


 
  Hi huckfinn
   
  Well Im stumped. Was thinking possibly there wasn't a 68k resistor in there but by the looks of that setup there more than likely would be although I cant see it. Maybe email ALO and ask them as its an ALO product?


----------



## huckfinn

Hi,
  Well, the connector i pried open is not the alo audio one but the one in the first picture
  Just a generic lod to 3.5mm connector bought on ebay.
  I couldn't open the alo audio one but.....either one doesn't let me connect my iphone through lod........


----------



## realkandar

flashbak said:


> Yes, I can attest to the configuration working since I built my cable awhile back from that exact same link. As far as I know Ken never had it right to begin with since his configuration required the iPhone to be rebooted etc...Upon multiple requests for the pinout from various people here, he never did supply any info to help!
> 
> Pinouts for Dock connector:
> 
> ...


 
 did this work for a long time? and with this configuration can this work for iPod classic to?
 actually, i want make lod with capacitor. so, if i'm using resistor and capacitor together in lod..there are not much room for them. so, if i just make lod only using capacitor..can my lod working to my iPod classic and my iPhone 4S? help me,please.thank you.


----------



## realkandar

hi all. again still same question.
 i want diy Lod to USB for my iPod classic and sometimes when i mobile, i will using lod for my iPhone 4S in my car head unit.
 i'm interesting about lod with capacitor because capacitor it's make some quality in sound. but the problem is if i'm soldered the capacitor with capacitor together. there are no space for them. so if i just using the capacitor in lod, it's working for my iPod and my iPhone? which pin will be jump as replacement capasitor?
 thank you and hope will help me.


----------

