# Casework: Share Your DIY Enclosures



## zkool448

I thought I'd start a casework thread as I've not yet seen one dedicated to DIY housings/enclosures. Basically we can share some of our builds and progress here for those thinking about DIY’ing their own, and also to see a few ideas from others.

 Please share some of your homemade metal, wood, acrylic, etc enclosures (or any other designs you've built) either before, in-progress, after pics, drawings, How To's, etc. Perhaps some Q&A discussions regarding tools, milling, cutting, recessing, drilling holes techniques, etc.. Pretty much anything relevant to all DIY enclosures, including internal wirings and connectors you've used for your PS, amps, DACs, speaker cabinets, etc.

 I'm no expert in building amp housings, just a newb with limited skills acquired through woodworking and bit of luck to have access to a small shop with enough tools. I’ll start with the few DIY amps I recently finished in the last 3 months:

*Millett Starving Student Hybrid (Amp 1)*




















*Millett Starving Student Hybrid (Amp II)*





























*Cavalli Audio SOHA II*
























*Cavalli Audio CTH (Compact Hybrid Tube)*

_... Completed (2009-May-24). Link to my *build log*._



















*Cavalli Audio All Tube Futterman Bijou (The Jewel)*

_... Completed (2009-July-23)_
  
 Concept:








































 More pics of final build *here*, and vu meter video clip.


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## BlizzofOZ

Limited skills???

 Some really nice work... very neat and classy!
 Not sure about anybody else, I'm impressed...

 SS Amp II, is that made out of wood and painted black?


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## smallcaps

very dope builds!


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## .Sup

myGod thats fantastic!


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## logwed

Both look amazing!!! I especially like the second one, but the first has a beautiful clean look.


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## kuroguy

His limited (woodworking) skills are better than most people's extensive skills. The woodworking part isn't teribly difficult if you have the proper tools. the difficult part is having the artistic creativity to envision an attracive and interesting case. You, sir seem to have most of our shares of that particular ability while most of us have to settle something somewhat less artistic. 

 Awesome work there.


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## Wilf

I personally think that your case work, zkool, is some of the best I've seen regardless of origin.

 What could help people is to perhaps share how you made some of the cases, and what tools you used, and what techniques. In the first build, you have wonderful clean, straight edges. How did you do that? How did you achieve the consistent rounded oblongs around the heatsinks?

 I have an idea how you did that, but please share you experiences!

 I would love to see a comprehensive "how I did this" for the SOHA case, featuring dirty, dirty shop pictures. Perhaps a bit on finish as well. 

 This thread here diyAudio Forums - A 'how to' for High Gloss Finishing - Page 1 is a good step-by-step guide how to achieve a good, high gloss finish. 

 If you did something similar for casework, you'd achieve godhood, nearly.


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## cobaltmute

Love that SOHA case


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## holland

I love the SOHA II case as well. How did you make the top panel?


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## aloksatoor

those cases are beautiful!!! esp the curved ones which merge into the heat sinks


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## MoodySteve

I'll bite...

*Bijou*

 Work so far:









 Hopefully will look like this some day:


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## dbfreak

Both posters... That is some very creative and gorgeous case work! You got talent.


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## pabbi1

Such a humiliating process... me overcompensating for lack of skill by using expensive material - Bolivian Rosewood in this case.











 All my other builds are in my sig - casing is not my strong suit.


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## dbfreak

A case I completed a few months ago for my HK Citation 12:


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## BlizzofOZ

I couldn't cut a piece of wood to save my life... even with the right tools.

 Beautiful work!

 Looking closely at the SOHA II case, the top piece... what is that made out of? Is that wood also? Just like the black SS case, they have a metallic look to them.

 I love the second SS case because it has that, oh what is called... art deco? That look from the 20s/30s era.

 I second the thought of HOW you made them. Hoping you took pictures during the process.

 Once I complete my Mini3, I hoping to try a SS myself... if I can get my hands on those tubes.

 I would be interested possibly buying a case from you... hand made by you.
 I know that I couldn't pull that off myself.


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## MoodySteve

Here's my design for the AMB ß24 power amp.

















 As you can see, CAD is a tremendously valuable tool, especially 3D CAD like Solidworks or Inventor. The ability to fine-tune your layout (in some cases, both horizontal AND vertical) is really vital for me. I can't tell you how many problems I found during the design phase and thus never had to deal with in real life. 

 Not only is it great for weeding out problems, CAD affords you the opportunity to build something *exactly the way you want it*. Want to see what different color paint looks like? No problem. Want to see if you can fit an upgraded transformer or extra PCB? No problem.


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## johnwmclean

zkool448 and Moodysteve, you both have tremendous talent. This is a great skill to have, aiding pre-production of your given amplifiers. Absolutely brilliant work guys.


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## lifesundeath

I'm so happy that people who can build stuff like this exist. If it were left to me you'd be looking at old shoe boxes with components glued into them.


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## Good Times

I just bought a router. Look out 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Fantastic stuff guys, a real inspiration.


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## MoodySteve

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lifesundeath* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm so happy that people who can build stuff like this exist. If it were left to me you'd be looking at old shoe boxes with components glued into them._

 

Thanks for the kind words, everyone!!!

 Speaking of shoe boxes, the first prototype of my ß22 design didn't work out too well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 So I went with metal instead. Back when this was made, I worked at an engineering company with a machine shop (all manual equipment) so I was able to make the case from scratch. The headphone jacks are not isolated, so they are mounted to a separate subplate made of Glastix, which is bolted to the front plate via blind tapped holes (guess how much of a relief it was when the jacks came out concentric with the holes!). The AMB ε12 is also mounted to the subplate. That's a Darwin Source Selector in the back, mounted on an aluminum bracket. Mounting it vertically was the only way to make it fit in my (completely arbitrary) desired case length of 12". Apologies for my lack of camera skills.


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## S J

@ OP: 'Limited skills' indeed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 do you know anyone with 'extensive skills'? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All three cases are amazing, I particularly like the SOHAII

 @ MoodySteve: lol @ pizza box B22 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The black and gold cases look great though


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## Nebby

Great stuff all! Got a few helpful ideas already from this thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoodySteve* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As you can see, CAD is a tremendously valuable tool, especially 3D CAD like Solidworks or Inventor. The ability to fine-tune your layout (in some cases, both horizontal AND vertical) is really vital for me. I can't tell you how many problems I found during the design phase and thus never had to deal with in real life. 

 Not only is it great for weeding out problems, CAD affords you the opportunity to build something *exactly the way you want it*. Want to see what different color paint looks like? No problem. Want to see if you can fit an upgraded transformer or extra PCB? No problem._

 

I've been playing with a free clone of AutoCAD and I although I've only worked with 2D stuff, it's been extremely helpful already. Any tips on books or resources for learning Solidworks?


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## Xan7hos

omg beautiful!


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## Pars

There are some mad skills on display in this thread. This guy always blew me away. Obviously has access to material and a shop.






Bergrans CD-Pro2M controller :: Case Building


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## johnwmclean

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pars* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are some mad skills on display in this thread. This guy always blew me away. Obviously has access to material and a shop.






Bergrans CD-Pro2M controller :: Case Building_

 






 OMG 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That’s very clever!


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## MoodySteve

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nebby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been playing with a free clone of AutoCAD and I although I've only worked with 2D stuff, it's been extremely helpful already. Any tips on books or resources for learning Solidworks?_

 

Solidworks actually has a built-in tutorial that's quite good. There's no better way of learning it than doing it, obviously. It's a very deep program and easy to get intimidated by, but most designers can use it by knowing about 10% of the functionality of the program.

 I do use AutoCAD for layout as long as I don't have to stack components, as I do in my ß24. It's a lot easier and faster.


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## zkool448

Thanks guys! 

 Already getting a bunch of other ideas for future builds. This is what I had hoped to see when I started the thread, hope more members participate and share their case build ideas.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *BlizzofOZ* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_SS Amp II, is that made out of wood and painted black?_

 

Yes, entire enclosure is actually made out of wood (MDF) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This is what it looked like before two coats of sandable primer and two coats of textured metallic paint (from the automotive section):






  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Wilf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What could help people is to perhaps share how you made some of the cases, and what tools you used, and what techniques. In the first build, you have wonderful clean, straight edges. How did you do that? How did you achieve the consistent rounded oblongs around the heatsinks?

 I have an idea how you did that, but please share you experiences!

 I would love to see a comprehensive "how I did this" for the SOHA case, featuring dirty, dirty shop pictures. Perhaps a bit on finish as well.

 This thread here diyAudio Forums - A 'how to' for High Gloss Finishing - Page 1 is a good step-by-step guide how to achieve a good, high gloss finish.

 If you did something similar for casework, you'd achieve godhood, nearly._

 

When I really need to achieve clean edges and lines, I always turn to my 60T saw blades (or even finer tooth blades) instead of the general purpose ones. The edge cuts always come out 'finished and clean' and needs very minimal sanding. The round edges and the SOHA II top lid were done with a router with a round over bit. I have my router mounted on a router table since I prefer to move the wood pieces instead of running the tool over (safer/easier).

 I wish I had taken more photos of the SOHA II during the build. I'm about to build my next casework for the CTH amp. For this, I'll provide more details and pics of the build process, tools I'll be using, and finishing. Since the end product will/should resemble the SOHA II, the technique should be pretty close 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoodySteve* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Bijou*Work so far:_

 

Looking good so far MoodySteve, nice! The Bijou and B22 are on my wishlist and hope to build them someday.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Such a humiliating process... me overcompensating for lack of skill by using expensive material - Bolivian Rosewood in this case.
 All my other builds are in my sig - casing is not my strong suit._

 

No, not lacking skills at all... I think your Rosewood Raven looks nice and elegant. I could tell you've put a lot of effort into it simply by looking at your intricate dovetail joints. Great job pabbi1! I wish I had your patience 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *BlizzofOZ* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I couldn't cut a piece of wood to save my life... even with the right tools.<snip>
 I second the thought of HOW you made them. Hoping you took pictures during the process.

 Once I complete my Mini3, I hoping to try a SS myself... if I can get my hands on those tubes.

 I would be interested possibly buying a case from you... hand made by you.
 I know that I couldn't pull that off myself._

 

BlizzofOZ, it just takes practice and hardly difficult as long as you plan before you start your project. I do plan to document my next case so stay tuned and you'll see that it's quite manageable to build it yourself 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dbfreak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A case I completed a few months ago for my HK Citation 12:_

 

Very cool! ...and may I say I approve of the Gorilla glue!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nebby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been playing with a free clone of AutoCAD and I although I've only worked with 2D stuff, it's been extremely helpful already. Any tips on books or resources for learning Solidworks?_

 

Solidworks and AutoCAD I'm sure are pretty good for modelling/planning your work. Have you tried Google's Sketchup? It's free (not the Pro version) and it's what I use. Simple enough to learn and have good tutorials online with lots of support groups -- I think you'll like it.

 Thanks all for sharing!


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## TimmyMac

Wow, this thread is awesome. I haven't bought a single case for any of my projects, and I fully agree building a case is just as fun as the rest of the build


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## keyid

nice renders and builds!

 Someday I will get off my ass and work on a nice case...

 Nebby - should try rhino 3d I find it can accomplish things much faster; its much more intuitive and also has vray plugin rendering. IMO solidworks not worth learning unless you are going to use it for work.


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## jacc1234

There are some amazing cases in this thread. Casework is my weak link. I can't even get clean holes in the plastic Hammond face plates. Does anyone have any good guides to follow?


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## kuroguy

The keys to properly machining wood are:

 1. Good tools. You're very unlikely to cut a straight line by hand. You need a table saw. even a cheap $100 benchtop saw (think Delta) will suffice if you make some jigs for cutting.

 2. Proper cutting jigs. For rips on a table saw you can get by with a good saw fence. for cross cuts and angled cuts a sliding table jig is almost required. those little miter gages that come with the standard table saw are crap. they can be off by several degrees and even 1 degree will cause gaps at mitered corners. check out A Sliding Table for Your Tablesaw for instructions.

 2. Cut everything 1/32" bigger than necessary to account for the loss of wood when sanding. 

 3. do your cross-cuts first and then the rip cuts. cross cuts tend to have tear-out at the end of the cut where the wood is not supported by more wood. Rips are very clean and do not tear-out as you are not trying to cut across the grain.

 4. Use a scrap piece of wood to support your piece when cross cutting (especially when using a miter saw.

 5. use a zero clearance insert on your table saw to support your piece and prevent tearout on a table saw. 

 6. save your sawdust. use it to make "Goop" to fill in cracks after gluing. Goop is a mixture of sawdust and wood glue. if mised properly and used as a filler, it will perfectly match your wood after sanding and will hide any blemishes very well.

 7. Sand thoroughally starting with the lowest grit paper necessary and then work through the progression of grits all the way up to 600 or even 1200 grit paper. don't skip and grits along the way or you won't yemove the scratches made by the prior grit sanding. usually that is 100, 150, 220, 350, 600, 900, 1200. By the time you finish 1200 sanding the wood should have a shiny finish without the application of any finish.

 8. Don't expect any finish (paint, laquer, shellac, etc) to cover up any blemishes that can be seen before applying the finish. finishes usually make blemishes show up better. if you see a blemish, go back to #7 and repeat.

 9. I keep a bottle of Naphtha (zippo fluid) handy and squirt it on my sanded wood to get an idea of how it will look with finish on it. Naphtha doesn't make the wood grain stand and evaporates in a few seconds. DON"T USE WATER FOR THIS. IT WILL MAKE THE GRAIN STAND UP.

 10. apply as many coats of finish as possible. Apply thin coats and you'll get better results than thick coats. They will dry faster, run less, and look better.

 11. Take your time. don't be in a hurry. rushing always causes mistakes.

 I've no good photos of amps here, but here's a couple photos of a jewelery boxs I made using the above woodworking skills. They are the same skills necessary to build a nice looking chassis.


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## BlizzofOZ

zkool448,

 Oh, it's MDF. I really like the SS AMPII case...
 Unfortuantly, I don't have the tools to do this kind of work.

 Very talented people in this forum!


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## BlizzofOZ

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kuroguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The keys to properly machining wood are:

 1. Good tools. You're very unlikely to cut a straight line by hand. You need a table saw. even a cheap $100 benchtop saw (think Delta) will suffice if you make some jigs for cutting._

 

kuroguy,
 Funny that this whole woodworking topic came up as I have an outside, house project to do that my wife wants me to do.

 I was thinking of getting a table saw to make the work easier... so, I guess I'll ask you this:
 Any suggestions on a decent table saw?
 Any preferable brand(s)?


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## kuroguy

the table saw you select depends on the size of the stuff you plan to cut as well as what you are making. For the small stuff I posted above I use a Proxxon FKS/e Table saw. this is a mini saw that spins a 3-3/8" diameter blade and is wonderful for stuff like jewelery boxes, doll house furniture, ets. it only cuts 1" thich wood at 45 degrees so you are limited in what you cut. I have found it to be ideal for casings for amps (which are really just relatively small boxes). I also have a 10" delta benchtop table saw that with some practice is useful for larger stuff. I cannot stress how much difference a sliding table will make no matter what saw you use. For really large stuff I have a friend with a 12" table saw with a 6'x4' table top that can cut anything I can throw at it. The thing is, for really small stuff the proxxon works great. I can even make 1/16 or 1/32" thick strips for accent coloring like in the sides of that curved front necklace jewelery box above on the left. I don't have a problem getting my hands and fingers really close (1/8") from the spinning blade of the proxxon saw. I wouldn't do that with a larger saw for fear of losing a hand. 

 As far as brands go, delta is kinda low quality, but for $99 what do you expect. my proxxon saw cost $350 and is a dream to use. In fact I used it last night. 

 So, to answer your question, it depends on what you plan to do with it. There is a tool for every job and some tools work better than others for a particular job. Last count I had 2 table saws, 1 scroll saw, 1 saws all (large reciprocating saw), 2 hand held circular saws, a jig saw, a 10" delta compound miter saw, and hopefully a band saw in the near future. This sounds like a lot of saws, but each one has a niche where it works much better than all of the others. And no, I'm not one of those guys that buys tools for the sake of having them. For box making like an amp chassis I use the miter saw ($99) and one of the table saws primarily.

 If I had an unlimited amount of money I would have skipped over the low end delta saws, but since I am constrained, I make due with what I have and manage to make it work.


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## BlizzofOZ

kuroguy,

 Thank you very much for the reply... and I see what you saying. Makes sense... get the right tool for the job you are performing.

 In reality, I already have a table saw... it just very, very old. It still works, but not very portable. And make cuts with small pieces of wood on that saw scares the heck out of me.

 That link is not working for me... just hangs on opening the page.


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## kuroguy

Hey, old doesn't mean bad. I've seen many really well built old saws. Much fewer well built modern saws exist. Also, not portable usually translates to more accurate.


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## kuroguy

Oh yeah, I also own a chain saw that has been used for rough cutting blocks of wood for the wood lathe as well as cutting down a plethora of trees. I don't get to use this saw vary often, but when I do it is a bunch of fun. smoke, noise, and a large spinning blade. what more could any testosterone loaded guy ask for.


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## BlizzofOZ

Geez... maybe I can borrow some of your tools???

 I also have a miter saw. My circular saw seemed to have seised on my and that has to get replaced. I'll probably replace that when I reroof my garage. I'll use that to cut the plywood that'll need to be replaced.

 That link you provided is not working for me. Does it work for you?


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## kuroguy

The link worked for me earlier. Just google sliding table for table saw and you'll get loads of good hits. Really, this is just a piece of plywood with a couple of stringers on teh botton that ride in the miter gage slots. that keeps the plywood in the same orientation with the saw blade as it slides forward and back. clamp and glue a fence to the rear of the plywood that is perpindicular to the blade and everything you cut on the table will be 90 degrees to the rear fence of the table. I clamp trianglesm etc to the table to get whatever angle I need. the key here is repeatability. four 90 degree cuts will form a perfect rectangle. 3 90 degree cuts and one that is slightly off 90 degrees will create a perfect gap at one or more of those 4 joints.

 By the way, for roofing, a circular saw is likely the best tool you can choose. your cuts can be off by an eighth inch or so without causing a problem on a roof. especially since the plywood gets covered with either shingles, tiles, or roll roofing and the joints fall on top of roof trusses or rafters so they aren't visible from below.


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## MoodySteve

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jacc1234* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are some amazing cases in this thread. Casework is my weak link. I can't even get clean holes in the plastic Hammond face plates. Does anyone have any good guides to follow?_

 

Here are a few tips that I always try to keep in mind. I'll admit that working with plastic, for me, is more difficult than working with both metal and wood. It's very unforgiving stuff.

 1. As kuroguy mentioned, buy good tools. There's an old expression that amounts to 'It's better to buy a good tool and hate yourself once than to buy a crappy tool and hate yourself every time you need to use it.' I think a good cordless drill is a great investment, and not just for this hobby. Rotary tools (like Dremel) are also very useful and have a variety of attachments to expand their functionality. I think a good palm sander is also vital, although a sanding block will sometimes be needed when palm sanders are too powerful.

 2. For drilling holes, one way to have everything line up (more or less) is to make a panel layout in AutoCAD with all of your desired holes center-marked and print a 1:1 copy. Then, you line up the corners (which can also be marked in AutoCAD) to the corners of your actual workpiece, ensuring that the paper is taut, and tape the paper to the panel. Next, take a spring-loaded center punch and mark the centers of each hole (this is why you print the center lines). Now you can drill the holes out exactly where they should be and your bit will most likely not wander.

 3. Have a way to secure your workpiece to your bench - you can get into trouble if you're holding both the drill AND the piece to be drilled. I normally use bench-mounted vices for this.

 4. Get a countersink for deburring - this can greatly enhance the appearance of your holes and can sometimes clear out undesired shards or protrusions.

 5. Get some drill/tap sets - I'd recommend 4-40 through 1/4"-20, if not 3/8"-16.

 6. Make friends with someone that has a mill.


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## oneplustwo

To point #6 above, I just picked up a mini mill from Harbor Freight to help with some of my case work and other miscellaneous projects. It was "only" $489 minus 20% coupon which is pretty good considering the capabilities a mill brings to the table.


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## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoodySteve* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*3. Have a way to secure your workpiece to your bench - you can get into trouble if you're holding both the drill AND the piece to be drilled. I normally use bench-mounted vices for this.*_

 

No kidding. even with a drill press you can get hurt pretty bad if the work gets away from you. here's a photo of a cool volume knob I made and the wound I suffered while making it. It happened in a split second and I didn't even feel it until after I looked at it. It culminated in a trip to the emergency room. By the way, that's my left hand and I'm left handed. I couldn't write for about 2 weeks and its still sensative to this day. 

 Like I said in item 11 above take your time. Rushing always causes mistakes. some bigger and more painful than others.


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## Bonthouse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..*I'm no expert* in building amp housings, just a newb with limited skills acquired through woodworking plus some luck to have a small garage shop with enough tools.._

 

Yeah... Right!
 Those are amazing!


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## qusp

I have a feeling that cad was involved with more than the visualization process for the OP?? would I be right?? either way, no matter ghow you came up with the finished result; thats some slick work and visualization. also; is that wood or 'wood' in the starving student case. 

 very nice me likes


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## fzman

tools are key! with regard toi diy in general, and not just casework, i have found that a hakko 936 solder station, a hakko 808 desoldering gun, my dremel and my drill press, along with two very good dmms (and a used vintage o-scope which has gotten little use so far) all are really helpful, and greatly expand both one's range and quality of projects.


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## kuroguy

Just remember, when you go to the hardware store and buy a drill bit what you really want is a hole. 

 None of us really wants to spend our money on tools. what we really want is what the tool allows us to make.


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## qusp

oh yeah; my productivity and quality of work really took a leap when I got a decent soldering station, next is drill press and already ordered my dremel last week. was actually considering getting one of those presses for the dremmel; anyone got experience with those??


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## zkool448

moodysteve, kuroguy, excellent machining tips! Comforting to know we have resident experts who can guide us along here. Btw, luv those jewelry boxes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To point #6 above, I just picked up a mini mill from Harbor Freight to help with some of my case work and other miscellaneous projects. It was "only" $489 minus 20% coupon which is pretty good considering the capabilities a mill brings to the table._

 

Oneplustwo, your casework would fit quite nicely in this area. That's some interesting design you're working on and anxiously waiting to see the outcome of your mill work. Care to share how your mill tool works? Pardon the ignorance I know nothing about metal work... is it something like a drill press, but on steroids?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a feeling that cad was involved with more than the visualization process for the OP?? would I be right?? 

 also; is that wood or 'wood' in the starving student case._

 

Yes, I use Sketchup, but before that I used pencil and paper 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. The wood 'wood' is really wood -- MDF wood that is 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 For my tools, it took several years to build an inventory of them. They can get quite expensive but worth every penny. It really is nice to know that you have a tool ready tackle most of my projects. Also just to add it's also crucial to have a dedicated working environment/shop, get a nice big, clutter-free workbench you can use to drill, glue, assemble, clamp and hold workpieces onto, etc. 

 Here are some pics of my small shop. Sorry about the bad quality since the digital SLR is not allowed anywhere near sawdust so the cell cam would have to do:


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## pabbi1

We can never be friends... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 VERY nice shop - color me jealous. Maybe we need a thread of 'pics of your shop', just to put into perspective how nice yours is. Though, having a dedicated space helps - me, I have to use all portable things, as my garage is primarily for the wife's car.

 Sketchup bookmarked - nice recommendation.


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## zkool448

Thanks!

 My wife *used* to complain when I turned the garage into a shop, but only until I made an addition to the deck, and also built a good sized pantry for our kitchen 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sketchup, go through the first and second Google video tutorials (5-10 minutes maybe?) and you'll be making "sketches" like these in no time!


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## oneplustwo

A milling machine is kinda like a drill press on steroids. Everything is much stiffer because it's designed to make precision cuts (plus or minus a thousandth or so depending on the machine and operator skill) in the x and y direction as well as vertically like a drill press. Instead of just using drill bits, you can use end mills to make holes. Then you can turn those holes into slots by moving the work piece in the x/y directions since most end mills are designed to cut with their sides as well as with their ends. There are lots of other fancy things you can do as well. For example, you can make a mill computer controlled (CNC) and program it to make intricate 2D and 3D shapes and contours. There's a 2 second intro anyway... I'm still new to it myself but I'm looking forward to my next project. The M3 was a good first project. I'm going to recase my B22 and maybe do something fancier.






  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 
 Oneplustwo, your casework would fit quite nicely in this area. That's some interesting design you're working on and anxiously waiting to see the outcome of your mill work. Care to share how your mill tool works? Pardon the ignorance I know nothing about metal work... is it something like a drill press, but on steroids?
_


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## thefragger

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Millett Starving Student Hybrid (Amp II)*








_

 


 This right here is the exact reason why I _need_ a router table. Beautiful work, I love the Art Deco styling 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Great idea for a thread. I'll have to add mine to it when I finish a project or two 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 Philip.


----------



## smeggy

Very cool thread and tons of great info. I love this stuff and you guys do some pretty awesome work. Makes me proud to finally be part of this great DIY group


----------



## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Here are some pics of my small shop. Sorry about the bad quality since the digital SLR is not allowed anywhere near sawdust so the cell cam would have to do...*_

 

Lucky you. I started out with half of a 2 car garage. then we had kids, so now my shop consists of one 3' x 8' workbench (homemade from a sheet of OSB and a few 2x4s. I installed a circuit in my panel and added a bunch of outlets to the bench (no more plugging and unplugging). All of my tools are bench top tools and I've drilled holes in the top of the bench that mate up with the mounting holes for my tools. I store the tools on shelves and take them down, mate them to the holes in the bench with some bolts I use as pins and when I'm done with the tool I put it back on the shelf. 

 For the size stuff we do it is more than enough workspace so long as I stay organized.

 With the right tools and some planning you can setup a very useable shop in a very small space. I have less than 1/8 of the 2 car garage for myself. 

 I also managed to secure the back porch when we moved in here. the wife got every other space in the house (and I'm happy for the space I got).


----------



## apatN

Beautiful thread with already beautiful work. There are some real professionals here.


----------



## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a feeling that cad was involved with more than the visualization process for the OP?? would I be right?? either way, no matter ghow you came up with the finished result; thats some slick work and visualization. also; is that wood or 'wood' in the starving student case. 

 very nice me likes_

 

Every project I do gets drawn in AutoCAD before I build it. That curved front Jewelery box I built had over 90 hours in it. 

 Drawing it in CAD allowed me to figure out the special angles I needed to cut to make the curved doors and most importantly, allowed me to see what the box was going to look like before investing the time to build it as it has over 300 unique parts and required over 600 individual cuts on the table saw.


----------



## ka24altima

zkool, all of your projects are simply amazing, but the SS really caught my eye, and I'd like to do something similar with my Cmoy (i know, that's like putting a bow on a turd, but oh well).

 I'm guessing you used the glow of the tubes to achieve the bottom lighting? Obviously I'd have to use LEDs, but I've done similar things with my car stereo projects. Did you wet sand the plexi first in order to get the uniform glow? Also where did you get the plexi and how did you cut it?

 I look forward to seeing what else you have up your sleeve!


----------



## TimJo

Nice work everyone... 



 I think the mods should make this thread a 'sticky' one.


----------



## kuroguy

Acrylic can be cut with a table saw very easily. you can also use a router with a straight or flush trim bit.


----------



## zkool448

Thanks for the compliments guys!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A milling machine is kinda like a drill press on steroids <snip>... I'm still new to it myself but I'm looking forward to my next project. The M3 was a good first project. I'm going to recase my B22 and maybe do something fancier._

 

Ahh.. guess you could say it's the equivalent of a router with a staight bit in terms of woodworking (?). BTW please update us with some pics of your progress as you start your B22 case if you wouldn't mind? I might just grab a milling machine as I want to do some metal work as well.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very cool thread and tons of great info. I love this stuff and you guys do some pretty awesome work. Makes me proud to finally be part of this great DIY group 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

smeggy, that's great and looking forward to your CTH case when you get the chance. I'll also be working on mine shortly and will log my build as much as I can.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ka24altima* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and I'd like to do something similar with my Cmoy 
<snip>
 I'm guessing you used the glow of the tubes to achieve the bottom lighting?
<snip>
 Did you wet sand the plexi first in order to get the uniform glow? Also where did you get the plexi and how did you cut it?_

 

There's nothing wrong with making an attractive case for your projects. I've seen cmoys housed in brushed aluminum with big shiny knobs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ...more common altoid tins are popular because they're cheap and convenient 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It depends on how much time and money you have -- just do it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The bottom "glow" comes from two red LEDs mounted underneath the tubes. The plexi luckily already came frosted, a friend who works at a mall gave it to me (was part of a display stand). I trimmed it to size using my table saw. 

*TIP:* If you install the saw blade BACKWARDS, it will cut through plastic/plexi/acrylic even soft aluminum sheets much smoother and cleaner.


----------



## M3NTAL

Post up Ti/AMB's work.. his cases are always TOP NOTCH also.


----------



## zkool448

M3NTAL, I've seen AMB's B22 casework, absolutely gorgeous (I want one badly). Let's also not forget Ferarri's caseworks -- they all look fantastic. 

 I'd love to post other people's casework *however* I'm not confident they'd approve. I don't feel it's appropriate since the actual builder might be oblige to respond if any questions arise or PMs start rolling into their inbox. If they really want to share their work they'll post themselves


----------



## johnwmclean

I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy,


----------



## kuroguy

Putting a blade in a saw so it rotates backwards just sounds like a great way to get injured. 

 I've cut acrylic on a table saw with a carbide tipped saw blade with excellent results. Leave the protective paper on the acrylic as it contains a lubricant for the blade. the finished cut has a criss cross pattern on its face. smooth, but with the pattern. to remove the pattern you can polish it with progressive grits and then polishing compound or attempt to heat it with a torch. go too fast with the torch and you get crazing.


----------



## LingLing1337

Unbelievable work zcool. I'm sure you could make a profession out of it.


----------



## FooTemps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kuroguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Putting a blade in a saw so it rotates backwards just sounds like a great way to get injured. 

 I've cut acrylic on a table saw with a carbide tipped saw blade with excellent results. Leave the protective paper on the acrylic as it contains a lubricant for the blade. the finished cut has a criss cross pattern on its face. smooth, but with the pattern. to remove the pattern you can polish it with progressive grits and then polishing compound or attempt to heat it with a torch. go too fast with the torch and you get crazing._

 


 Actually, the backwards blade trick has been a widely known tip for people working with acrylic for years. It works really well.


----------



## kuroguy

A line preamp/dac I'm working on. Used the table saw, miter saw, drill press, dremel tool (with router attachment), orbital sander, and various taps. For repetative holes in a straight line, equal length or width pieces always setup a fence on your saw or drill press so all the parts/holes are uniform. this takes planning ahead to determining which parts have equal cuts and doing them all at the same time. This not only saves time resetting the tools over and over, but will pay off in the end with parts that fit better upon assembly and an equipment rack that looks very nice....


----------



## zkool448

kuroguy, very impressive! Did you use biscuits for the mitered joints or just glue and clamp?

 I'm close to being done planning my CTH case. I'm going to do a 'mini' version of the SOHA II but will be finished in dark walnut. Hopefully start a build log and take some pics in the workshop starting this week.


----------



## kuroguy

I find that a proper 45 degree miter doesn't require any shoring up. I've done extras like slipfeathers or box joints but those were more about the look. I don't own a biscuit cutter. I have a piece of 1/4" shock cord that I wrap around the frame and make it very tight (like a big rubber band). I also have a big box of rubber bands. The miter joint can't help but to be square as long as the opposite sides are of equal length.


----------



## oneplustwo

Will do. I'm a bit torn between recasing and trying to make it into a four channel balanced B22. Or even starting fresh and making a 4 channel B22 from scratch. But I would probably have to sell the cookie tin one first and frankly, I don't think anyone wants it!

 I'm sure with your imagination, you could do awesome things with a mini mill. There isn't quite the flexibility there is with wood, but the precision is a facet that would be something you could take advantage of.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Ahh.. guess you could say it's the equivalent of a router with a staight bit in terms of woodworking (?). BTW please update us with some pics of your progress as you start your B22 case if you wouldn't mind? I might just grab a milling machine as I want to do some metal work as well.
_


----------



## zkool448

Your B22 could rest on a scrap plywood and someone would still buy it. I think it's an ingenious idea... plus what's under the hood is what really matters 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnwmclean* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am not worthy, I am not worthy, ........_

 

johnwmclean, if I had your thick wallet and had no kids I wouldn't be messing with homemade cases 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 IIRC, you designed your own encloure, yes?


----------



## oneplustwo

That may be... it really does sound fantastic despite the enclosure. Perhaps the best sounding amp for the money, period! Maybe I'll just build the 4 channel first and then have something to compare to when it's done. Then I'll sell the three channel if it's really sub par. (Hard to say "sub par" when talking about the B22.) If I was really ambitious, I would build a 2 channel as well and compare all three! Maybe if some folks wanted to commission a couple builds... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your B22 could rest on a scrap plywood and someone would still buy it. I think it's an ingenious idea... plus what's under the hood is what really matters 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your B22 could rest on a scrap plywood and someone would still buy it. I think it's an ingenious idea... plus what's under the hood is what really matters 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, not always...


----------



## Emooze

Oh wow, is that a case for the transformer or did that come like that?


----------



## Alcaudon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, not always..._

 

Wow!!! that's really nice!!! what is it? Can I ask where did you get those black tube sockets?

 I would certainly buy it, even without the plywood


----------



## pabbi1

Tube sockets are the teflon composites from PcX (and one of the Asian vendors, but PcX is cheaper)... the torroid is a potted custom winding from SumR. And, yes it has a real case being fabbed... sadly in aluminum, not (yet) wood. Once it all works (and is cased properly), I'll discuss it more.


----------



## zkool448

There were saw dusts flying in the workshop today when I started cutting away some wood for my CTH case. 

 BTW, please note that this build is only meant to share the workflow I use when I build wood cases for my projects. This is not meant to be a guide since I’m nowhere near an expert in this area. As a matter of fact, I am kind of embarrassed doing this alone. I really wish others would follow suit and post some of their work in here also as I continue with this build. I would even entertain anyone to share their very first Altoids case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Please ask any questions in case I didn't explain something or provided enough details on any specific steps here. My hope is for others to get some inspiration out of this or catch a few ideas if ever they decide to build their own simple homemade case out of wood.

*The Box:* 
 I wanted the case size to be 5”W x 7.5 “L x 2”H.




 The wood I chose for this case is Poplar which is a hard wood. You can find them at Home Depot and they’re not very expensive. I’m using my compound miter saw to cut the miter joints. I started with the front and back pieces first. I measured 5” (twice!), marked with pencil, and then cut.





_Tip_: When I’m cutting more than one piece to the same length, I use a stop block (it's the scrap dark stained wood) clamped to the miter saw fence to ensure length consistency. I clamped the stop block to the fence, making sure the distance from the block and the blade is identical to the length of the front piece I cut previously. I then repeated the same process for the side pieces.





 Here's a matched pair!





 As much as possible, I try to set the blade as true as I can to 45 degrees since it's the only way I can get that tight miter joint look. Finally, all sides complete!





 Next step is I wanted to recessed the knob. The alum knob I have for this amp is about 48mm (just shy of 2”) -- I like huge knobs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. My 2” Forstner Bit is perfect for this job.





 I setup my drill press depth to just leave enough wood on this front panel for the nut to catch the threading of the pot.





 I clamped a scrap piece of wood to support the piece and to prevent it from rotating. After finding the center, I drilled the hole slowly and carefully. I don't overdrive the bit into the hard wood or it will end up burning the wood and/or could damage the Forstner bit. I have a set of them but they can get quite a bit pricey.





 Once the recessed hole had been drilled, I kept the wood in place so that the hole remains centered on the drill press. Changed the bit to a ¼” drill bit and continued to drill through the rest of the wood.




















 Next time, I’ll be trimming the box height down to 2 /14”, finish the remaining holes at the back for the power switch, fuse, and input/output jacks, etc., then rabbet the inside edges with a table router. The top and bottom lids will also get done next time. I’ll be doing them like the SOHA II using MDF wood.

 Thanks for reading 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (Continue to Part II)


----------



## smeggy

Awesome work zk, I like your process. I wish my shop was as neat and tidy


----------



## zkool448

Thanks smeggy -- only neat and tidy if I have no projects on the go, right now it's a mess in there


----------



## smeggy

Heh, I was just messing with my rotozip fitted with a circle guide base plate and a 1" bowl router bit. Very nice and quick. Not ideal and a bit jerry rigged but works very well and accurately for cups.


----------



## thefragger

zk, you're in Toronto! Your miter cuts look perfect, very nice work!


----------



## elliot42

Well, you've inspired me. I'm building a chipamp for my speakers and I'll have a go at a nice wooden case. The progress pictures are great, really neat work. They also make me wish I had a drill press, and a decent place to work, but I don't really have anywhere to keep a nice bench and machines. I have a neighbour who builds boats and I know he has a table saw, I must check if he has drill press too.

 I can put up some pictures of my past casework, but they're not quite as spectacular as the ones posted so far 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heh, I was just messing with my rotozip fitted with a circle guide base plate and a 1" bowl router bit. Very nice and quick. Not ideal and a bit jerry rigged but works very well and accurately for cups._

 

- Very clever, whatever works smeggy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 How do you hold the cup to stay still as you route around it with a circle guide?

 - Thanks thefragger, I'm in Toronto indeed and so are you! Perfect weather to be outdoors these days huh? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 - elliot42, cool chipamp. Did not know about the amp until now, marked down on my to do list.. thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 You really should build the case, it's a lot of fun. They're just basic simple box designs, nothing elaborate as opposed to those amazing looking aluminum/metal caseworks I've seen under the build gallery. Sadly there's hardly any _*"How its' Made"*_ type of posts though


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_- Very clever, whatever works smeggy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 How do you hold the cup to stay still as you route around it with a circle guide?_

 

I bought a Jasper small circle jig, aligned it with the roto with the centering pin and glued them together.

 From there I drill the pilot hole for the guide pin into a board. Measure a 3.5" OD from pin to cutter edge with the bowl bit and rout the insides out with a nice inner radius.

 Change bit to a 1/4 straight bit and set the ID to 4" and cut the cup out, then finish the outside on the lathe.


----------



## zkool448

good one smeggy. 

 With lathes, that's one tool i never had a pleasure to use. Wondering if I can get by with something like this (for now) to do just basic turning? How much on average to the "real" ones cost? 






 Besides the beautiful cups you make, it'd also be awesome to make some custom casefeet or wooden knobs.


----------



## smeggy

the one I got was $180 from amazon. It's small and not particularly great but it does the job. 

psi turmcrafter pro

 I'm actually looking for small and cheap plunge router 1/4" shaft size. I have two fixed base ones but I really need a plunger. Wish this stuff didn't cost so much.


----------



## zkool448

Just did a quick browse around and did come accross that one, price does seem reasonable.

 I have a fixed base as well, but my Porter-Cable could have the optional plunge base attachment that allows one to switch between plunger/fixed.


----------



## elliot42

I put the boards for the chipamp together the other night and just have to wire it up to have a listen. I'll probably be able to have a go at building a case the weekend after next. I have no problem cutting square pieces, but I don't have any tools to do any fancy cuts. I'd like to be able to do mitred joints, route holes and grooves, etc. I was also building a light box for my mum, but it's been on hold for a while as I haven't been able to route grooves to slide perspex into


----------



## kuroguy

That lathe looks like the standard midi lathe. 18" between centers and swings 10" diameter. I have the Delta midi lathe. Woodcraft had another one. they all cost around $180-$200. that's just the beginning. you will need a 4 jaw chuck, a set of chisels and optionally (i use it all the time), a jacobs chuck for the tailstock. The chisels cost on the order of $40 each. Plan on a rough gouge, a spindle gouge, a parting tool, a round nose chisel, a square nose chisel, and a tool or tools to keep the chisels razor sharp. Really, the minimum investment to get into using a lathe is near $500.

 Skip that drill motor lathe. it will just turn you off on using a lathe.


----------



## smeggy

Yeah, I have way more cash in the other bits than the lathe itself. However, it does make a good multi-tool if you don't mind risking life and limb


----------



## oneplustwo

zkool - what do you use when you need to ground stuff? Do you have a metal base plate or something? Also, what knob is that? Finally, did you rip your pieces down with a table saw before making your 45 degree cuts? Or can you buy the poplar like that from home depot?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There were saw dusts flying in the workshop today when I started cutting away some wood for my CTH case. _


----------



## Listen2this1

Mine is a little older but I thought I would add it.


----------



## johnwmclean

Nice work James 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I really like the top plate design.


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elliot42* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I put the boards for the chipamp together the other night and just have to wire it up to have a listen. I'll probably be able to have a go at building a case the weekend after next.(_

 

Elliott, the chipamp may just find a home in a similar case like Listentothis' case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kuroguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...Really, the minimum investment to get into using a lathe is near $500._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I have way more cash in the other bits than the lathe itself. However, it does make a good multi-tool if you don't mind risking life and limb 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ouch, they would be the most expensive knobs/casefeet I've ever built if I take the lathe route -- i may have to give that idea a second thought 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_zkool - what do you use when you need to ground stuff? Do you have a metal base plate or something? Also, what knob is that? Finally, did you rip your pieces down with a table saw before making your 45 degree cuts? Or can you buy the poplar like that from home depot?_

 

The amps I have so far uses a piece of metal or a copper board attached to ground. The starving students are P2P'ed to a copper clad board as the ground plane, while the SOHA II uses a bottom metal plate that came from an old CD-Rom case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The poplar comes in 3" or 6" wide, I just grabbed the 3" stock. I usually cut my 45 degree miters before I rip them on the table saw to the desired width (in this case they'll end up 2 1/4" wide), this way any imperfections (dings, scratches, blade tear outs, etc.) are trimmed away.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Listen2this1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mine is a little *older* but I thought I would add it._

 

Well, it's *NEW* to me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think it looks refined and unique, I love it. 

 How did you machine that nice top vent hole, and do you have pics of the insides/construction including getting that cool Millet logo on it? Iinitially I wanted to include the Cavalli "yin-yang" logo on the SOHA II top lid but I couldn't think of an option how to get that done.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ouch, they would be the most expensive knobs/casefeet I've ever built if I take the lathe route -- i may have to give that idea a second thought 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Looking back at page 1, I used a bimetal circle cutter, with the guide bit for feet, and without for knobs. Then, mount on a bolt, and use the drill press to sand / round into shape. Plumbers roll works great for sanding on the drill press.

 Those are Bocote feet on the rosewood case. I also made some from buckeye burl, and Ambroya (sp?), but dead simple.


----------



## zkool448

Thanks for that tip pabbi1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I had no idea they're homemade, wow.. just shows they are "Pro" grade.

 I think I have a good idea of your process, but not 100% sure (told you I'm novice at this). I'd like to try some using your technique so if you wouldn't mind/when you've got spare time, I really would love to see some 'how to' pictures (I'm a visual kinda guy)


----------



## Listen2this1

Back in the day, when car audio was big I was an installer that did some nice rigs, I was really into the fiberglass side and did alot of router work. The most versatile piece of machinery that one can own. The templates I got from a friend of mine, they are really nice. With nice double sided tape you can apply the template to the wood, aluminum, and plexi. If you use a double bearing flush pattern bit you can come up with some cool designs. He also on his site explains how to do the logo's.

Mobile Solutions :: Smart Templates

Mobile Solutions :: How To's : Laminating Graphic Prints to Acrylic


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for that tip pabbi1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I had no idea they're homemade, wow.. just shows they are "Pro" grade.

 I think I have a good idea of your process, but not 100% sure (told you I'm novice at this). I'd like to try some using your technique so if you wouldn't mind/when you've got spare time, I really would love to see some 'how to' pictures (I'm a visual kinda guy) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

1. Bimetal hole saw - note the guide bit is removeable, in case you don't want a center hole. This one is 1.75", which will yield a 1.6" circle after sanding.






 2. Cut the plug - clamping is a good idea, but, not really necessary. I run the drill press at 1200 rpm.






 3. Cut plug - literally, this can be any size, even thinner stock glued together, even different woods IFF you plane the sides before cutting the plug.






 4. Mount the plug with a bolt and nut - firmly, as this will be spinning on the press, in my case at 1200 rpm.






 5 Sand with progressive grit - I did a quick 100, 150, 220,330, and 0000 steel wool. Further burnish can be added by using sawdust after the 0000 wool. This is without any finish.






 Easy as 1-2-3, and 4 in an hour is truly no sweat.


----------



## thefragger

Sweet knob!

 Remember kids, a mill can be a lathe, a lathe can be a mill, and in a pinch a drill press will do!


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Listen2this1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With nice double sided tape you can apply the template to the wood, aluminum, and plexi. If you use a double bearing flush pattern bit you can come up with some cool designs. He also on his site explains how to do the logo's._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Easy* as 1-2-3, and 4 in an hour is truly no sweat._

 

Lots of clever and helpful tricks - thanks guys.


----------



## zkool448

(Continued from Part 1)

 Well I got some more work done on the CTH case last night which really helped relieve some of the work stress I've had all week.

 So last I night I trimmed the mitered pieces to get the height down to around 2-1/8”. Btw I made a last minute decision and did a minor change from my original design/plan. I really like the recessed knob on my SOHA II so decided to do the same for the CTH. The change does not affect the overall dimensions, only the look of the knob where it now also protrudes on top of the wood instead of it being centered.





 With the pieces all trimmed down, the housing is high enough to keep the tall PCB parts (caps/heatsick) remain under when I install a lid, but it’s low enough for the tube (with socket saver) to stick out far enough for the heat to dissipate.





 Next step is I drilled the holes for the jacks. _Edit: If you prefer, you could also route out the back panel first (see couple of pics below) before drilling the holes._

 I used a caliper to measure the diameters of the input/output/AC jacks, fuse holder, and heater switch then created a printable layout in Sketchup. The pot I plan to use is the Alps RK97 which comes with an on/off switch built-in, therefore a dedicated pwr switch is not needed for this build.





 Printed the layout using 1:1 scale, then taped the print out to the wood piece which will in turn becomes the case back panel. 
 All set now for the drill press:





 After drilling the holes using standard drill bits, I removed the paper template and followed the holes with a Forstner bit to recess them… only a wee bit.
_(Edit: thefragger left a comment about this step and he makes a good point.
 "thefragger: I would've done the drilling operations in reverse; forstner first then the thru holes, for the sake 
 of concentricity. The forstner leaves a little dimple in the centre which is perfect for drilling the thru hole.")_






 Before I can mount the jacks to the back panel, I need to carve some of the material out using a router with a ½” bit. A little over ½” deep should be sufficient.





 Dry fit.





 Made good progress I thought. The switch, fuse holder, and jacks all fit nicely and after a couple of hours in the shop the case is currently at this stage.





 I’ll finish up the case by glueing the pieces together next time, clamp it tightly and then start working on the top/bottom lids next time. 

 Well I hope so far some new builders will find this log of value and get a few ideas from it when finishing/building their projects -- again, thanks for reading. 

 cheers! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (Continue to Part III)


----------



## sachu

holy ****balls...that's great work yet again zk...I should really commission a case out of you.


----------



## zkool448

thanks my friend


----------



## thefragger

One comment, and I really don't mean to take away from that great little case (love the way the volume knob is!) but I would've done the drilling operations in reverse; forstner first then the thru holes, for the sake of concentricity. The forstner leaves a little dimple in the centre which is perfect for drilling the thru hole.

 Keep it coming


----------



## oneplustwo

zk - do you have a special blade in your miter saw? the cuts seem very clean. Not sure if they're after sanding or if you have a fine tooth saw blade in there?


----------



## elliot42

I'll show off my brilliant casework for my chipamp:


 



 Housed, for now, in cardboard 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 It sounds pretty good and has _plenty_ of power for my bookshelves. I need to figure out what value pot/attenuator to get to give me enough range in volume, I'm using the very bottom of the 50k pot that's in there at the moment.


----------



## zkool448

Your casework sure does look brilliant elliott! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 hahaha

 I recall reading about a shunt pot trick here somewhere that should help with adding more range to your volume, or perhaps adding input (or output) resistors in series but I can't remember.

 Anyway, it looks like you have lots of options you can do with casing up that nice chipamp of yours.. keep us posted. cheers.


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thefragger* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One comment, and I really don't mean to take away from that great little case (love the way the volume knob is!) but I would've done the drilling operations in reverse; forstner first then the thru holes, for the sake of concentricity. The forstner leaves a little dimple in the centre which is perfect for drilling the thru hole._

 

Glad to know some people actually read my posts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I completely agree and you're absolutely right thefragger, thanks for pointing it out. To be honest, I have no clue why I worked on the back panel in that order. If you noticed, when I recessed the hole for the volume knob in Part 1 of this build, I did fortsner *first* then drilled the thru hole for the shaft. There's definitely inconsistencies in my work here 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ...Wait, I believe part of the reason is either I didn't have a drink that night, or it's because I wanted the vol knob to be near/exactly concentric to the recessed hole. Yes, that's it, and I'm sticking with it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_zk - do you have a special blade in your miter saw? the cuts seem very clean. Not sure if they're after sanding or if you have a fine tooth saw blade in there?_

 

Yeah the cuts came out somewhat clean and quite happy with them, the pictures show the pieces as they were cut. Also note that hard wood (poplar, maple, oak, etc.) generally cut nicely 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Really nothing special with the blade, just using finer tooth versus a general purpose one. I sand only in the end when i'm ready to do the finishing/staining.


----------



## Wilf

zk - I could read your posts 'till the cows come home! Great, clear photography plus concise descriptions of what you are doing. The pictures tell a good story as well. The picture showing how your routed out the back panel finally tells me how you manage to get good, square recesses. Make a Jig! Simple!

 The local DIY stores here in the UK tend to stock green, soft pine. I really need to source some hard wood/finer tooth blade. THEN I might be able to to get the same type of clean cuts you do!

 What did you use to remove the top of the front piece, allowing the volco to be exposed?

 Anyway, you are inspiring lots of people here, keep posting, it's a pleasure to read!


----------



## dbfreak

Eco-friendly!


----------



## smeggy

not new but I did finally get around to putting the door viewer rings over the tubes


----------



## sachu

^^neat!!

 Are you gluing them down or are they just placed?


----------



## smeggy

Cheers.

 They are glued, luckily they are about the same diameter as the wee wooden washers I made as they give a nice contrast.


----------



## zkool448

thanks Wilf 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The front/face was trimmed down with a table saw.

 smeggy, nice to see the poplar burl Millett SS make another appearance, this time with cool blings! luv it. Me thinks you've just UP'ed the prices on these (http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/bli...1/#post5656690), I won't be surprised to see them out of stock soon


----------



## MoodySteve

The top plate for my Bijou progressed over the weekend.

 The blind holes that all PCBs will mount to were drilled ~.1875 deep into .250 aluminum, which should be much more than enough for a 4-40 tap. I really can't afford to botch this one up at this point so I'm going to order a tap handle and do it by hand instead of using my drill as usual.





 The top was lapped with Timesaver to smooth it out, and the hole for the transformer wires was enlarged by quite a bit after I discovered that a 1" circular hole is not nearly enough to stuff all the wires from a Hammond 300 series transformer. The edges were also cleaned up.





 And now I owe my friend who has all this equipment a *huge* favor.


----------



## pabbi1

Be sure to use cutting oil with that hand tap... just a bit of insurance. Very nice!


----------



## zkool448

Looking good so far MoodySteve. 

 I understood all the steps you did for the top plate, until you said "lapped with Timesaver". I've no clue what that meant 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -- can you kindly elaborate?

 Btw, my first metal work tool bits arrived today. My very first set of stepped drill bits


----------



## MoodySteve

zkool, Timesaver is a lapping compound...it's pretty cool stuff. But I'm not sure if it's suitable for hand application.

 At first it acts like a coarse abrasive, and as it continues to work it breaks down to a fine abrasive and then eventually a polishing abrasive. 

 pabbi1, I will be sure to use cutting oil when i do the taps - I've seen some get pretty gnarled up going into dry metal, even nice soft aluminum.

 I was hugely relieved when I confirmed that the tube holes seem to be concentric with the tube socket regions on the PCBs, as you can imagine.


----------



## kuroguy

Here's my work area. You may recall I said I had 1/8th of a 2 car garage. Here's a photo of my saw collection (not the complete collection). From top left to right bottom you see my 

 Jointer ($65 at the fleamarket, $5 for a new set of cutters.)
 belt sander (free)
 Delta table saw ($99)
 Jig saw ($30)
 belt/disc sander ($99)
 Scroll Saw ($99)
 wet sharpener ($45)
 mini table saw ($350)
 Reciprocating Saw ($79)
 Miter saw ($99)
 A couple of circular saws, drill, dremel tool, etc. Bench tools can be stored in very little space.

 Also attached is a photo of my very cluttered bench with my latest project on it. It isn't typically this cluttered but this project has required the use of many of my hand tools in no particular order so I haven't been keeping up with putting them all away as I finish with them. My wife has also invaded the garage with a project (not hi-fi related) and has contributed to the mess (mostly mine though). You can see the bench drill press (which gets a bunch of use) as well as the dremel drill press attachment. Notice the 3 duplex outlets on the bench? They are very easy to install/wire and a great timesaver. you can never have enough outlets on a bench.

 Sort of a stranded on an island question; if I were told to get rid of all but 3 power tools I would keep the Mini Table Saw (although I used the larger one for several months when the mini saw needed a new belt and gears), the Drill Press, and the dremel tool (with router attachment). I believe I could build pretty much anything with these three power tools.

 What three tools would you choose?


----------



## pabbi1

Not a pretty shop - mine is relegated to a corner of the garage, and has to be deployed once the car is moved out... sadder still is that lawn care is on the other side. Oh, and the surplus furniture... <sigh>.


----------



## kuroguy

Pabbi1,
 I've seen worse. I didn't post photos of all the bikes, yard tools, trash cans, etc. Trust me, they're there. Also, we pulled my wife's car out of the garage to get that free space. I throw out anything that is not used for more that 3 months if it isn't mine and 6 months if it is mine. Still, my workshop habitat is the victim of the pressures of civilization and micro urban sprawl. I do; however, manage to find the time to sweep out the cobwebs once or twice a year. I also give my shop a thorough cleaning before I start spraying lacquer on any projects. 

 By the way, no takers on the only 3 power tools question? I think it might be helpful to those just starting to build a workshop if they were to know what we all consider the most useful tools, especially for those that don't have a few thousand dollard to outfit a workshop.


----------



## pabbi1

I am torn on the 3 power tools, as Drill press and Dremel are given, but I have lived a while without the table saw (finally got a 'portable'), using hand saws and the Jointer... the #3 is my hand sander, as no project lives without it - ever, but I'd call table saw 4a and Jointer 4b. Then, router is 4c.

 So, there are my 6 essentials, hand sander, drill press, dremel, table saw, jointer, and router (especially now that I have a dovetail jig).


----------



## kuroguy

With some homemade jigs (made mostly from scraps) my table saw can cut very accurate miters, straight cuts, and even cuts at any angle such as 60 and 30 degrees. I can use it to cut rabbets, fingerjoints (another homemade jig), tenons, and even mortises. It is the most versatile tool in my arsenal. 

 I've used the drill press as a lathe on occasion. It is also most useful for drilling holes without tearout. It is pretty much a requirement for a good looking panel. A hand drill has nothing on a drill press so long as you have a plan and make all the necessary holes before assembly. I also use it to add holes after assembly although the table is sometimes too small to achieve much more accuracy than can be achieved with a hand drill.

 My Dremel does everything else. It can make nice finished edges from 1/8" radius to rabbets to slots to mortises and tenons. It sands, shapes, grinds, and cuts anything I throw at it. I have the drill press attachment (hardly gets used these days), router attachment (use all the time) and even an attachment to remove grout from tile.

 In a pinch I can hand sand with a block. Sanding goes slower, but if you take time and make smooth cuts with the 3 power tools it should be a minimal task anyway.


----------



## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am torn on the 3 power tools, as Drill press and Dremel are given, but I have lived a while without the table saw (finally got a 'portable'), using hand saws and the Jointer..._

 

Cutting a straight piece of wood is gonna be a problem with just the hand saw and no jointer. you might want to rethink that third power tool.


----------



## zkool448

It's refreshing to see what kind of shops people have in their homes to build their projects in.

 I like my table saw, my router table, and compound miter saw, and of course can't live without my dill press (I know that's 4 things 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)

 Getting ready to post Part III of my CTH casework...


----------



## zkool448

(Continued from Part 2)

 Picking up where I left off, I've glued all the mitered pieces together, clamped it tightly and let the glue dry overnight. Here is the type of clamp I use to hold mitered pieces tightly in place.

 Once dried, I sanded the case only a little bit and used it as a reference to get uniform dimensions for the top lid. I use a large sanding block so the edges remain straight and more importantly -- flat.





 I cut a small piece of MDF wood for the case top lid, sized it just big enough to cover the top surface. These are the same steps I did when I machined the top lid of my SOHA II. Basically I used a table router to machine a ¾” MDF wood to get the "look" I'm after. Looking at the diagram you can see how the wood piece is “cut” or routed to reveal the top profile:





 I started with a ¾” straight bit and made “rabbets” to the front & back ends, then did the same for the sides, only just sunken just a wee bit.










 I then changed the router bit so I can make the “cove” profile to round the part near where the vent holes will be. (lot of bit changes here for sure).





 ….Then changed bits again to “chamfer” the outside edges.





 Next is I carved out the vent holes. With the top lid flipped over I carved out some of the material for the top vent/cooling channels.





 Almost done…





 The last step is to rabbet all four sides of the bottom so that it’ll sit snuggly on top of the case. 





 Dry fit:










 …And that is it for the top plate. Only things left to do is drill the holes for the tube and lid fasteners. Will make the bottom cover also which will have 3 large centered holes for improved circulation/cooling. The top lid will be primed and painted silver using high-heat paint (automotive paint). The dilemma is I’m having second thoughts whether to stain the case dark walnut, or perhaps do a light(er) cherry finish this time – guess I’ll decide once I get to that part.

 Thanks again for reading!






 (Continue to *Part 4*) 

 ^


----------



## JamesL

that's insane =o


----------



## vcoheda

cool stuff zk.


----------



## Emooze

You might just be the next Norm Abram


----------



## elliot42

I gotta get me a router 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 That's amazing work zk!


----------



## pabbi1

ZK, we need to talk about some bigger projects for you, since you aren't even straining...


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ZK, we need to talk about some bigger projects for you, since you aren't even straining... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have a feeling we're thinking the same exact thing


----------



## pabbi1

Collaboration is a beautiful thing.


----------



## smeggy

heh, you guys are mercenary 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Excellent and informative as always zk! I just wish changing bits on my table was quicker/easier. I need to devise a simpler method to do that and get more use from my wee router table.


----------



## DKJones96

I need to finish my CNC gantry mill.


----------



## apatN

Shows what good tools and *great* skills can do. You are a true artist!


----------



## zkool448

Thanks guys really appreciate your kind comments 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ...and pabbi1, what kind of 'bigger projects' did you have in mind? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 cheers.


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks guys really appreciate your kind comments 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ...and pabbi1, what kind of 'bigger projects' did you have in mind? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 cheers._

 

Stax Mafia - there are a few things pending, but will do a proper PM this evening. Let's just say there are some opportunities...

 Mercenary = relentless =! fail.


----------



## zkool448

Intriguing ...will patiently await for details


----------



## Wilf

Phenomenal - I call Sticky, it would be criminal if this thread was lost.

 zkool, did you buy or make your router table?


----------



## zkool448

Hey Wilf, yes I built the router table and the fence about +6 years ago. The table is actually shared by my table saw (also custom built) and the router -- seasoned, sturdy, and still works very well.

 Some pics for ideas in case you decide to build one for yourself. I won't get into details of the accessories attached, don't want to bore you with all that details


----------



## Listen2this1

As much router work you do you should look at a Jessem lift. They are pretty slick, worth every penny.


----------



## zkool448

Pretty slick indeed:






 Never really cross my mind to get one of these before but after reading more about it I may just consider -- thx for the tip


----------



## zkool448

BTW, managed to squeeze a couple more hours of casework this evening and made adittional progress. Had the top lid tube and fastener holes drilled out, bottom plate is done, and even managed to get the case feet in!

 I'll have the pictures and some commentaries posted later on since it's a bit late... I'll have *Part IV* of the build log as soon as I get a chance tomorrow or the next day. 

 Cheers


----------



## Wilf

zkool, thanks for posting the pictures, as they say, a Picture tells a thousand words.

 Seriously, this post has taught me a huge amount. I'm mid-way through cutting my garage in half (no longer storing a car in there, and freeing up space for the kids to play on), and one of the areas that was going to re-done, would be my workbench. That's a definite now, but further refined to incorporate the tooling ideas here.

 I have a basic table saw (I need to make a table, with slide rails and jig), a router (ditto the extra), hand drills (stand is on order), and various sander/heat guns/ the sort of hand tools the an industrial engineer gathers over 20 years)

 Fired up, and raring to go, just need to finish my conservatory, as well as the garage!


----------



## Forte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Wilf, yes I built the router table and the fence about +6 years ago. 

 Some pics for ideas in case you decide to build one for yourself. I won't get into details of the accessories attached, don't want to bore you with all that details_

 

That is very nicely setup. Who makes the tracks, knobs for fixing/moving the fence and the measuring tapes that are set into the tabletop?

 I am feeling inspired by the setups shown, have started to clear the shed out to make room for a proper workbench. Plan to check out the hardware stores on the weekend.


----------



## zkool448

Wilf, Forte, looking forward to hear the progress on your garage/shed renovations and soon to be 'workshops' 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The tracks and jig accessories I use are all from Lee Valley, fortunately I live only a few minutes away from their warehouse!
 You can search for jigs, knobs, clamps, and many other useful tools from their site.

_edit:_ got home pretty late from a family gathering and slowly prep'ing part IV of the CTH casework.. stay tuned!


----------



## zkool448

(Continued from Part III)

 This is Part IV of my CTH little case project. It’s nearing the home stretch so this will probably be the build log’s last portion.

 Picking up where I left off, I took the top lid to the drill press and cut a 1” hole for the tube, plus four additional holes (5/32”) on each corner for the fastener screws. I placed a scrap wood block underneath the top lid to avoid tear-out. 

_Note:_ I find using a fence on the drill press table really helps support the piece and I get more accurate results when drilling several holes in series.





 I fitted the top lid to the poplar wood chassis then pencil-marked the 4 holes I drilled previously. I then drilled 4 smaller holes on each corner of the poplar case, and tapped them for the fasteners to mount onto. 

_(Note: I can't seem to find those fancy hex nuts you pros use for your metal front or top plates. Instead I have to settle for some shoddy looking canvass fasteners from the local hardware store 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_





 Next thing is I worked on the bottom cover for the case (i.e. the bottom lid). I used another piece of MDF and sized it accordingly.





 I find that ¾” is a bit too thick for a bottom lid, so I turned to my portable planer to shave it down to about ½” thick. I could’ve gone thinner, but not so thin as I wanted the PCB (with standoffs) to sit a little higher inside so that the tube sticks further out from the top.





 After I got the MDF piece thickness down to ½”, took it back to the router table and rabbeted the edges, sized just right to fit the bottom of the case.





 I checked out the aisles of my local hardware store to see if I could find some cheap ‘alternate’ for case feet. I found these nail-on chair gliders and they look simple enough to install (used the same ones for my SOHA II but larger diameter). I thought they disguised themselves well after they’re installed – the beauty is a set only cost $2.50! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Before I can mount them to the base, I needed to pre-drill small holes in each corner for the nail to stick into (see red arrows). I didn’t want to just hammer them in since the nail could split the wood. After I drilled the small holes, I also needed to cut out small notches for each corner of the bottom lid to make space for the “feet” (see yellow arrows). The bottom lid and case feet all will be permanently epoxied to the base of the case.





 Next step, I marked and pre-drilled the location where the standoffs will rest (and to be epoxied permanently to). I also added 3 large holes for additional vents (1.5” diameter each, I hope it’s more than enough to keep the amp well ventilated inside)





 And so that is it -- the case is virtually complete, however there are still some things that need done. The entire project needs sanding before I can apply stain and paint the top/bottom lids. At any rate, I thought it has come a long way from a piece of poplar stock and few small pieces of MDF. 

 Overall I thought it turned out okay and here is what it looks like now (note: no pot/shaft installed):











 So that is it for this edition of zk’s build log 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just want to take this opportunity to say that I’m really pleased to see some of you take some interest on this little CTH case project. The fact that I have very little electronics experience, it has been a struggle to find some way to contribute back to this forum. I thought by sharing this little project that you might find it worthwhile and offered some inspiration/give a few ideas even to just a couple of individuals in this great DIY community. Even if only one person finds this of value I’ll be more than happy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. 

 Once again, thank you all for reading – cheers.


----------



## rds

ooh - a mini version of the SOHA II case. Very nice!


----------



## uberburger101

That is simply incredible. I think you and Ferrari have all the wooden and metal enclosures covered.


----------



## rds

Oh, and that is an awesome guide. It's that kind of effort that makes this forum such a great place.


----------



## n0ll4k

damn those wood cases look so nice. I think I have to try building one for my next amp. 
 Although I think my first try would definatly don't look so nice as the ones found in this thread.


----------



## Forte

Thanks zk for going to the trouble of doing such a great build log, very informative. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Also a little intimidating for any one else who follows, you have set the bar high!


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Forte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..Also a little intimidating for any one else who follows, you have set the bar high!_

 

Oh no! That is so not the intent of the log - Build, Build, Build, Please!


----------



## KevCanHead

Such and inspiration to us all! I can do a small amout of design and woodworking, but so far short of your league, but cartainly makes me want to try. I even showed your designs to my wife and she was impressed too...made her complain at my dull black hammond boxes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway thanks for taking the time and effort to show us what can be done.


----------



## vixr

WOW zkool448... simply fabulous. There is a complete woodshop at my job with some fantastic machines (the purpose of most of them eludes me) but I mostly work in metal. Thank you for scaring me away while I still have all my fingers. Its funny, because the big Bridgeport milling machine at work does not frighten me, but that table saw...


----------



## kuroguy

a little fear of the machines is a good thing. It helps us to retain all of our fingers.


----------



## zkool448

Thanks guys 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *KevCanHead* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_..I even showed your designs to my wife and she was impressed too...made her complain at my dull black hammond boxes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Kev, I went *AWOL* hiding in the garage/shop for a few days working on the case... and my wife wasn't *impressed* at all! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vixr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a complete woodshop at my job with some fantastic machines (the purpose of most of them eludes me) but I mostly work in metal. Thank you for scaring me away while I still have all my fingers. Its funny, because the big Bridgeport milling machine at work does not frighten me, but that table saw..._

 

vixr, you and I are perhaps the exact opposite.. my experience in metal work is nil and intimidated by mill tools, therefore I can definitely relate! My guess is wood is much, much more forgiving and easier to machine.


----------



## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My guess is wood is much, much more forgiving and easier to machine._

 

That depends. machining metal with wood tools can be very difficult. Machining wood with metal tools is much easier providing the cutters don't get clogged with sawdust. 

 That said, metal doesn't have a grain that grabs the wood tools and doesn't usually tear-out at the end of a cut. In all honestly, with the proper tools, both are just as easy to work with.


----------



## pabbi1

Yeah, but I can always patch the nastiest wood faux pas with glue and sawdust... not so much on metal, well, without a welder.


----------



## Xan7hos

zkool448 you create art, can't wait to see it finished!


----------



## zkool448

(continued from Part IV)

 All done! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All finished in light chery gel stain, and then sprayed with lacquered (canned). 

 The top lid was sprayed with automotive sandable primer (2 coats), sanded to smooth, and then sprayed over with high-heat silver paint (2 light coats). To protect from scrathes I top coated it with clear semi-gloss varathane to finish. cheers!


----------



## thefragger

Very nice!

 Do mine next!!


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thefragger* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do mine next!!_

 

...but you've already got a case


----------



## Baird GoW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...but you've already got a case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




_

 

I don't does that mean you will do it for me? lol


----------



## zkool448

baird haha.

 thefragger already has a wood case (currently under construction), meaning he doesn't need any help


----------



## .Sup

its not an enclosure but speaker stands, hopefully you aren't angry for me posting this here


 Today I made desktop speaker stands. Tweeter now at ear level


----------



## MASantos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *.Sup* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_its not an enclosure but speaker stands, hopefully you aren't angry for me posting this here


 Today I made desktop speaker stands. Tweeter now at ear level

 img]http://www.shrani.si/f/16/Pt/3TsEHMPZ/1.jpg[/img]

 img]http://www.shrani.si/f/3o/8Q/3LHjYtDT/2.jpg[/img]

 img]http://www.shrani.si/f/5/Az/TS50k1i/3.jpg[/img]_

 

Nice Rockits!!


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MASantos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice Rockits!!_

 

ok but what about my stands 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (btw theres also Rokit sub under the desk)


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *.Sup* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_its not an enclosure but speaker stands, hopefully you aren't angry for me posting this here_

 

.Sup of course it's ok, they're welcome everywhere as long as they are DIY 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Nice stands! Got any pics without the rockits on them? Wondering how you did the cross-lap


----------



## smeggy

just been painting my Par Metal case and adding some trim to it.


----------



## zkool448

it's a beauty smeggy, were does everyone get such nice wood? 

 ...I wonder what the housing is for??


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_it's a beauty smeggy, were does everyone get such nice wood? 

 ...I wonder what the housing is for?? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Cheers
 the wood is Orange Agate from my local woodcraft store. The case is one I bought over 5 years ago for another project that never got completed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This will probably be for my EHHA amp if it ever gets finished


----------



## intelonetwo

Awesome work.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_.Sup of course it's ok, they're welcome everywhere as long as they are DIY 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Nice stands! Got any pics without the rockits on them? Wondering how you did the cross-lap 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

thanks for your nice comment zkool
 its really hard to see even up close how its made so i made a 3d render real quick




 glued two parts and a screw in the middle just to be sure


----------



## Tedro




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## Tedro




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## smeggy

Wow, those are awesome Tedro!

 I love the look of those cases and you have a very nice amp selection there


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## Voodoochile

zkool448- your casework is flawless and inspiring. Outstanding!

 Also, your router table is real nice, looks very functional.


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## zkool448

Thanks voodoochile! 

 We should start a woodworking thread and talk shop anytime if you like 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_*Edit:*_ Tedro, astounding work with your acrylics!


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## lynxkcg

Found this on the side of the road, amazingly it fired right up, the tubes were all completely caked with what I suspect is 50 years of grime. All the rubber inside has turned into what looks like melted wax. It really needs a face lift, right now it's down to the basic frame to make some new panels, the bottom was completely rotted out. I was going to gut the innards to make room for a B22, but after hearing the radio thru those tubes, I'm keeping the stereo part. Should still be plenty of room without the phonograph section, which is shot.


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## MASantos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lynxkcg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Found this on the side of the road, amazingly it fired right up, the tubes were all completely caked with what I suspect is 50 years of grime. All the rubber inside has turned into what looks like melted wax. It really needs a face lift, right now it's down to the basic frame to make some new panels, the bottom was completely rotted out. I was going to gut the innards to make room for a B22, but after hearing the radio thru those tubes, I'm keeping the stereo part. Should still be plenty of room without the phonograph section, which is shot._

 

Amazing, do you have any more info on what's inside?


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## pabbi1

Sooooo tired of you guys having all the fun, so I whipped this out today.

 This is option 'c' on a stat amp enclosure. Epic fail on my dovetail jig, so, butjoints it is (mainly because I needed every inch of space). This is temp, until I can get my aluminum case welded.

 Koa front and sides, walnut back and 'spacer' bar. Bottom and back cover (psu, with really tall heatsinks) will be perforated aluminum, and not decided on the front top, which needs to vent 8 tubes. Wood was just stuff I have laying around. The bocote feet took an extra 30 minutes to knock out.

 No finish yet (will be 100% tung oil), and the XLR jacks are too small but will be 'matched' with the right size Forstner bit. Edit: Oops, stat amp - only one jack needed, so, gotta cut a plug for one of the holes, and see how well I can match... or mount two jacks... sigh.

 Hopefully I can get most of this finished in the next couple of days to get this amp finished, then post some more final case / interim amp pics.


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## lynxkcg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MASantos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Amazing, do you have any more info on what's inside?_

 

It's a Delmonico 1125U FM Multiplexer assembled in Japan, thats about all I know. Theres a schematic on the back, but it was written in script and a font so small I need a magnifying glass.Curiously I can't find a date ANYWHERE, I'd really like to know when there were new. 
 The phonograph section is a warped mass of plastic and bakelite.
 Ugh, I've already taken my ambien for tonight and can Hardly see the screen, I'll try to post pics of the innards tomorrow.


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## Voodoochile

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Koa front and sides, walnut back and 'spacer' bar. Bottom and back cover (psu, with really tall heatsinks) will be perforated aluminum, and not decided on the front top, which needs to vent 8 tubes. Wood was just stuff I have laying around. The bocote feet took an extra 30 minutes to knock out._

 

Coolness, can't wait to see it with finish. Should be very nice! Koa is the best.

 I'm embarrassed to even post this; it's just a temporary housing for some blind testing purposes. I have a few old network switches that I gutted, which seem to fit pretty well. There was a long pair of slots in the front where the ports used to pass through which had to be covered, so I put a little piece of Maple on there. I was just going to sand/oil it and tape it on with double-faced mounting tape- no power switch even.




 Next thing you know I'm cutting recesses for Allen-head screws, recessing a power switch, and adding a power indicator.




 Nevertheless, it's still just a re-purposed switch with a slab of wood on the front.




 The cover is dark gray textured paint already, so I did not even repaint it.


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## kuroguy

beautiful wood, and I realize it is temporary, but the holes don't appear to be lined up horizontally. If that was intentional then ignore this tip...

 Clamp a wood fence to the table of your drill press to get holes that are lined up perfectly. I did all of the holes on the rear panel with just a tape measure, drill press, scrap wood fence and a couple of clamps.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sooooo tired of you guys having all the fun, so I whipped this out today.

 This is option 'c' on a stat amp enclosure. Epic fail on my dovetail jig, so, butjoints it is (mainly because I needed every inch of space). This is temp, until I can get my aluminum case welded.

 Koa front and sides, walnut back and 'spacer' bar. Bottom and back cover (psu, with really tall heatsinks) will be perforated aluminum, and not decided on the front top, which needs to vent 8 tubes. Wood was just stuff I have laying around. The bocote feet took an extra 30 minutes to knock out.

 No finish yet (will be 100% tung oil), and the XLR jacks are too small but will be 'matched' with the right size Forstner bit. 

 Hopefully I can get most of this finished in the next couple of days to get this amp finished, then post some more final case / interim amp pics.






_


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## kuroguy

here's the photo of the rear panel....


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## pabbi1

Actually, I have one hole too many, so one will get plugged...


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## kuroguy

Um. I've got no tips for that...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, I have one hole too many, so one will get plugged... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


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## lynxkcg

When in doubt, add LEDs


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## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kuroguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Um. I've got no tips for that..._

 

I know how to do it (plugs cut with a bimatal hole saw), but just a question of how well I can match it. Not too much of a challenge, since I have plenty of koa scraps.


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## smeggy

pabbi, I bought a pair of XLR black plastic blanks (to add a panel mount front) I can send one of these if you like, drill it for an LED, phone socket, power switch or whatever and it;s big enough to cover the misalignment


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## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lynxkcg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a Delmonico 1125U FM Multiplexer assembled in Japan, thats about all I know. Theres a schematic on the back, but it was written in script and a font so small I need a magnifying glass.Curiously I can't find a date ANYWHERE, I'd really like to know when there were new. 
 The phonograph section is a warped mass of plastic and bakelite.
 Ugh, I've already taken my ambien for tonight and can Hardly see the screen, I'll try to post pics of the innards tomorrow._

 

What a nice find lynxcg, vintage! If not mistaken according to it's specs this radio holds 11 tubes!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Epic fail on my dovetail jig, so, butjoints it is (mainly because I needed every inch of space). This is temp, until I can get my aluminum case welded…_

 

Looking nice pabbi, really love those case feet. Btw, the Raven received such nice looking dovetailed joints... what happened? You didn’t want the joints mitered instead of butted? Perhaps the end grains coukld've appeared on the sides instead of the front perhaps?

 As for the extra hole, maybe an aluminum plate touch like kuroguy’s nice backplate, or another suggestion is maybe add a thinner layer of koa wood “plate” to dress up the front panel, like a Ray Samuels face plate, but in wood:






  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voodoochile* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Coolness, can't wait to see it with finish. Should be very nice! Koa is the best.

 I'm embarrassed to even post this; it's just a temporary housing for some blind testing purposes..._

 

It's really nice voodoochile, I really like tiger/curly maple. You have to admit it's a lot of fun


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## pabbi1

Yeah, I have a lot of thin exotics to try the plate idea (rosewood, ebony, tulip, etc) so I might go that route. The metal bulb LED is also appealing, should I find one in that size (5/8") in my parts (almost easier to go by the surplus place and buy one), though not sure how to hook it in on this build.

 May just plug it IFF I have the right hole saw, since that is a 5 minute drill, and glue, with an hour of sanding... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Cannot believe I did that.

 WRT to the dovetails on the Raven, Dr Wood (swt61) did those for me, and I really, REALLY wanted to do through dovetails here (if going dovetail, go all the way) or box joints, but I really need every millimeter of width I can get on this case, as the layout pics will show. It is tight, and the parts need room to breathe with 8 tubes. Even the .5" for the 90 degree cuts was too much, not even considering the varying width of the wood (1" front and 5/8" sides).

 Shocking how light the Koa is, especially compared to rosewood, but since the case has no real structural need (all the components sit on the aluminum base and feet), the butt joints are most likely sifficient. Screws even crossed my mind, as disappointed as I am with having to even take this route, but, everything should turn out fine with the glue blocks.

 Now, back to concentrating on what I need to be - the circuit, as this is still only one of two prototypes, both duking it out for epic case fail.


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## ksween93

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *johnwmclean* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy..._

 

x2

 There's some absolutely amazing craftsmanship in some of these.


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## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_....May just plug it IFF I have the right hole saw..._

 

Pabbi,
 It must have been 25 years in one of my high school math classes that I last saw the proper use of the abbreviation IFF.

 As for the use of dovetails, a good finger joint is even stronger and very pleasing to look at if done correctly. They are very labor intensive, but only require a table saw and proper jig. I built my finger joint jig from some scrap wood and an 8/32 threaded screw. Takes a few minuted to setup, but works very well.


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## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kuroguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pabbi,
 It must have been 25 years in one of my high school math classes that I last saw the proper use of the abbreviation IFF.

 As for the use of dovetails, a good finger joint is even stronger and very pleasing to look at if done correctly. They are very labor intensive, but only require a table saw and proper jig. I built my finger joint jig from some scrap wood and an 8/32 threaded screw. Takes a few minuted to setup, but works very well._

 

Agreed - just haven't taken the time to set one up, though I will now that I have a proper table saw again. Oh, and the hole is plugged - results posted tonight, then after finish - not perfect, but, acceptable.

 As a reformed coder, I used IFF in C or Delphi / Pascal... or was it COBOL?


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## pabbi1

OK, the plug is in and perfectly flush, but the darker sawdust fill makes the ring exagerated - hoping this is abated somewhat when the oil darkens the wood. Amazing how different it looks with components, eh? I will always be a function over form guy anyway, since it really is about how she sounds.


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## smeggy

Not bad Pabbi, it'll probably look fine once finished. And where did you get that cool perf sheet?


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## pabbi1

I think it was Online Metals, where a 2' x 3' sheet was about $40 shipped - this is .10" or .125", so plenty substantial to hold the 6lb toroid. May redo the top, as I didn't have enough material, IF I cut down the heatsinks by 1" to all fit inside, depending on the overall heat.

 Still considering whether or not to vent the sides.

 The front will be a challenge as i couldn't route a channel like the top, so suggestions are welcome, but, it has to vent the tubes heat. Thinking possible an aluminum grill grate - just something to keep fingers and paws out.


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## zkool448

Pabbi, that option ‘c’ stat amp of yours looks pretty impressive, power wise it appears very um… potent (for lack of better word) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don’t know what the ideal range or acceptable internal temps inside an amp should (read: safe) however do you know roughly how hot the case and components get the way it is?

 Yeah it’s unfortunate the panels have been glued and bit more difficult to machine. Would you consider venting the tubes from the sides instead of front? I was going to suggest route/cut out the side panels and mounting pieces of perf sheets or add grills on there from inside.


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## pabbi1

Well, that is the great question - how much heat? The designer will actually be looking at this today, but the heatsinks will probably get 85c, and the tubes are the great unknown. I am using .20 aluminum on Option A, which was designed as part heatsink, so the wood really is not optimal for this amp (a VERY high powered stat amp). 

 In the end, the heat may simply be too much, but I am hoping convection with the vented top and bottom will work for getting it running, but maybe not for extended listening.

 Maybe some mercury/cadmium/telluride heatsinks like they use in military aircraft would help.


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## pabbi1

And, done... except the front cover...

Backup shot
And, circuit sanity

 Money shot


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## dBel84

that is looking superb pabbi , well done on the fix too ..dB


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## zkool448

x2!! I like those dark side trim/bezels they complement the knob well.

 How does it sound, and so did it get very hot?


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## smeggy

Nice Pabbi, that front came up very nicely


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## pabbi1

Actually still waiting on the jack (custom manufactured in S Texas, en route), and having to get an assist on a buggered attenuator (kinda one of my recurring themes). In the meantime, I'm ordering more perf AL to finish the top correctly.

 Guessing another week, or so for power up.


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## DoYouRight

Wow zkool448 your cases are the most sleek and amazing I have seen, better than any marketed retail product for headphone amps! I would love to build one like the soha, or CTH, the knob is amazing with it going over the wood, and just the overall detail for ventilation OMG woodgasm. My uncle was a underwater welder and has alot of woodworking tools. I might send him some stuff to do. If he can get it done fast enough. THANKS FOR THE EYECANDY!


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## zkool448

hahaha many thanks doyouright 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I get a lot of questions with nice comments about the knob and where I get it from. It's a well-made solid aluminum from a seller on eBay. 

 In fact I ordered 2 more for the Bijou that I'm building next. cheers.


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## DoYouRight

CANT WAIT TO SEE THAT! First time Im anticipating a DIY build. But yours are the best! Man I wish I lived near you so I could have you be my teacher in this.


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## oneplustwo

First of all, why isn't this thread a sticky yet?! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			














 Second, here's a case in process. It was originally supposed to house my Buffalo 32S, but I ended up deciding to put that in a matching par-metal case with the balanced Beta I'm building. Now I'm thinking that I might be able to squeeze a two channel Beta in there and build a matching PSU case. Hmm... haven't seen any woody Betas around...

 I'm trying to figure out what to do with the top. I don't have the skills to do what zkool does but I do have a milling machine so I might do some fancy angled slots or something. Not sure how well a slow milling machine goes through MDF but I know how to find out!


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## zkool448

Wow, wow, and wow!


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## rds

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First of all, why isn't this thread a sticky yet?! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 ...
_

 

Kind of off topic, but I have the same Ansel Adams poster... at least from the same print set. The print I have is 'Oak Tree'.

 Also nice woodwork


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## oneplustwo

I think everyone has that poster. It's a requirement if you own any sort of camera beyond the one button point and shoot.


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## wiatrob

I can't believe you did that without a sled!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Zkool, have you been misleading us?


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## zkool448

I know can't believe it either! That's called precision with patience


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## oneplustwo

I just got the table saw a few days ago and a sled is on my to do list. i think the fact that the saw has a really nice cast surface helps. (Porter cable 3812S on sale at rockler for $299 and free shipping coupon... woot!) as a result the tslots are smooth and the guide is pretty darn square. I actually had already mitered those pieces on my compound miter saw and they were not good at all. So I "needed" to buy a table saw. Plus, the wife wants some shelves and I have some other projects that it will help with. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (Dado blade on the way too... still need a throat plate.)


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## oneplustwo

zkool, any tips on staining? I bought the minwax two in one stain/polyurethane. The directions seem pretty straight forward, but I haven't stained anything since junior high wood shop which was more than two decades ago. *gasp*


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## zkool448

kuroguy or smeggy are more experienced and could probably give you much better advise than I can since I sorta stink in this dept 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, ...but you might want to save that can of minwax for later though. 

 What I do generally depends on the type of wood I'm using. Some wood take stain very well (i.e. poplar used on the CTH) so just apply the stain and be done with it. But other types like pine tends to get "blotchy" because it absorbs stain unevenly. To deal with it, I mostly turn to *gel stain* since it's very simple to apply and gives the wood a nice even, deep, uniform color. Others use wood conditioner first to pre-treat the newly sanded wood before applying a final coat of stain.

 My dad taught me the best tip on how to avoid uneven stain. First is to apply a coat of natural stain to the wood (i.e. clear) and let it sit for about 2 minutes then wipe it off completely. After that, you can now safely apply the color of your choice and you should get good results with a nice even stain/tone throughout. I don't really do a lot of staining but the trick works well for me everytime.

 good luck


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## smeggy

I'm not much help either. I don't generally stain stuff with anything but a light gel stain poly. However, not very often. I've never used a general stain.


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## zkool448

I might as well start with my casework while I wait for parts to arrive.

 Here's an interim mock up, hoping I could pull this off


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## nattonrice

Wow that's intense!
 I take it the front is mdf?
 R u gonna mount the vol and nfb pots on those two circular things?


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## MoodySteve

That's a cool design, zkool. I've never seen a vented front panel before. Are those LEDs above the headphone jack and power switch for dB level? If so, how are you implementing that?

 Are you using any metal in the case at all? I know some Bijou builders have had some noise problems that were generally grounding/shielding issues


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## Llama16

very nice neat case rds. I'm hoping to build mine just as neat and smooth.
 Also zkool, that's a bittersweet design you have there!! Those knobs gonna be wooden as well? And plz do post step by step pics of it, it's fascinating to see it getting made.


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## zkool448

I'll see what I can do about a 2nd build log once I decide on a final design. Taking those pics slowed me down a bit trying to keep sawdust away from the DSLR camera and tripod, setting the exposure/lighting/camera angles, etc. etc. and documenting the process **but** I will do my best to post some of my progress for those interested 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. 

 I really would like to make this one unique, something different and special for the front panel (mdf). The amp will be cased in aluminum chassis, then enclosed with wood panels. Still not entirely sure which and how I'll be able to implement vu meters (led or analog) that's why I posted the question in another thread. If there's no accurate way to display the signal levels I still would like to integrate one simply for aesthetic reasons. 

 I know the thinking should always be "form follows function".. but the fact runeight has already addressed the function part very well (bijou design), I'm convinced I only need to focus on the form/aesthetics with very little tweaks later on 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 nattonrice, those are _the_ knobs


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## Llama16

I've noticed you've got alot of camera skills 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. And hopefully you'll be able to post some log pictures but I understand that it's annoying when you get interrupted in your work to make pictures. 
 Also, you never post your bloopers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, don't you make them or do you just want to make everyone believe that you're just a woodgod.


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## zkool448

haha I can't let out my secret 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But seriously I've made way more mistakes than I'd like to admit. Since I began using cad/sketchup I've made far less mistakes like I used to.


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## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... still need a throat plate._

 

I make zero clearance inserts with a thickness planer and scroll saw. Tell your wife the planer and scroll saw will pay for themselves in the money you'll save by making your own inserts. 

 Don't tell her it will actually take about thirty inserts to break even and you just might pull this one off. 

 Never lose sight of the goal. You can never have too many power tools.


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## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_zkool, any tips on staining?_

 

This may sound strange, but I don't use stain. In order to achieve different colors I choose different types of wood. I think a good piece of wood should be shown off instead of covered up with stain. I prefer to leave my wood natural. It does change color as it ages. Usually warmer. 

 I can tell you I've tried many different clear finishes and finally settled on lacquer. Here are the things I've tried and what I didn't like:

 Water based polyurethane is typically aplied with a brush. It didn't go on smooth and I was never able to achieve a truly high gloss.

 Polyurethane tends to yellow with age. I prefer the natural wood color.

 MInwax is expensive and takes too long to dry. As a result it is more likely that something will land on it while it is still wet. 

 Shellac has a color to it which changes as you add more coats. 

 I chose lacquer because it stays clear, dries fast (like 30 minutes max between coats), and is very easy to apply with an airbrush. 

 I thin it between 1:1 and 1 part thinner to 2 parts lacquer. the object is to get it thin enough to spray and use enough air pressure to evaporate enough of the thinner so that the lacquer is thick enough when it hits the wood that it doesn't run but still wet enough so it can smooth out and not leave an orange peel texture. I shoot with a $40 coarse external mix brush at about 45 PSI. Lacquer is very forgiving. it is very easy to determine how thin it needs to be. I've even sprayed thinner on the prior coat to smooth out an orange peel texture rather than remove the finish and start over. Beyond that all I can say is practice a bit before you go for the real deal. 

 The other advice is to sand, sand, and sand. Start with coarse and work through every size up to 600 or even 1500. I do 1500. What happens is the sandpaper creates scratches in the wood and the next finer sheet knocks down the prior paper's scratches. Of course, it creates its own set of scratches that you need to remove with the next finer paper. Skip a grit in the progression and you won't be able to remove the scratches from the prior sanding.

 Also, Lacquer is too thin to fill gaps. Use goop (I've described this earlier) to fill gaps. 

 somewhere between 8 and 20 coats will be sufficient to fill up the grain of the wood. don't try to lay on thick layers or they won't harden completely. 

 I'm sure there is more, but I'm curently out of time.

 Good luck,

 Kuroguy


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## kuroguy

one last thing. 18 coats of lacquer fully hardens in about 6 weeks. I usually polish with buffing compound and a cotton cloth followed by a thin coat of wax after 6 weeks.


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## oneplustwo

holy schneikes! 18 coats?! Is it necessary to use an airbrush? (I don't have one... yet. Although I have a small pancake cylinder (probably not enough volume for an airbrush?) on the way along with a set of nail guns. Another Rockler Porter Cable deal.) Maybe I'll give the minwax thing a try since I bought it already and it was only a small can anyway.

 Quick question about sanding... do you just go through all the grits before applying stain/lacquer? Or do you sand in between coats as well?


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## DoYouRight

Well Im going to build my a B22! With my uncles help of course, as he builds poweramps and everything just never in the realm of headphones just speakers.

 So how much are the parts for this with good quality stuff?


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## kuroguy

lightly sand with 600 between coats.

 your compressor will be fine for an airbrush.


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## kuroguy

and, oh yeah, I found that an air brush makes all the difference. Never a brush stroke on my finished boxes. Clarification on sanding between coats. Start with 2 coats of sanding sealer and sand with 600 after both coats. after that, no more sanding between coats. the lacquer will actually soften the prior coat and make it adhere better.


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## smeggy

You guys have way more patience than me.


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## DoYouRight

yes but why not use tons of patience for something you build yourself or build an enclosure thats so so for use while u build the MAGIC case for the final result


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## oneplustwo

Thanks for the tips Kuroguy! A couple follow up questions.

 1. Do you use a HVLP gun or something specific for lacquer? Any particular brand or model you recommend?
 2. Are there specific lacquers you recommend also? Not sure if there's a lot of difference in the world of lacquer.
 3. What in the world is sanding sealer?!

 DoYouRight - I would highly recommend going with glassjaraudio.com for your first beta22 kit. It makes things much easier as Jeff does a great job with labeling everything and making sure you have everything you need. Otherwise, you'll have to source parts from probably 3 or 4 different vendors. Also, his prices are very reasonable.


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## kuroguy

I use a Paasche Model HS with a #5 tip and a 3 ounce bottle. This is actually the least expensive model Paasche makes. I got mine for $40 and could have done better on ebay.

 When I was a kid I used to make sanding sealer by mixing dope (lacquer) with talc. It sands very easiy and more importantly, keeps the grain of the wood from standing up when you spray the lacquer. without it you'll NEVER get a really nice (mirror) finish. I get lacquer from the hardware store. Deft makes both lacquer and sanding sealer and sells it in 1 quart cans. The last box I did was 16"x24"x6" and I used almost a full quart of lacquer on it, so a quart isn't too much.

 One more tip: I usually hold a droplight while shooting. without the light you can't tell if the lacquer is going on smoothly. you can see the reflection of the light bulb and it allows you to see if the lacquer is flowing together or not.

 It really isn't that hard to get it right. In fact, I found Lacquer to be the easiest to get a consistently great finish. Just take your time, put on just enough lacquer to make it flow together, allow enough time to dry between coats, and add as many coats as you need to fill the grain evenly (usually between 8 and 18 and I always put on a few extra coats). 

 I do spend a lot of time on my cases. In my case, I made boxes before I built stereo equipment. I was looking for a way to combine my woodworking hobby with my electronics hobby. As a result, I try to do my best work with both hobbies.

 Others may feel that woodworking is less important than the sound. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that or how they prefer to spend their hobby time. After all, this is primarily an audio forum.


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## pabbi1

Kuro, do you ever use analine dye with your lacquer? I just love surburst finish, and think that would be wild on a case. I heartily agree the art of casing with wood (or aluminum) gets the short shift in DIY.

 That said, I just have to err on using expensive wood and tung oil, as my guitar finishing skills just never quite made it... except for a few salmon pink strats and a jazz bass.


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## kuroguy

Like I said, I never use any form of stain. Like my audio (not really), I prefer my wood uncolored.

 Part of the fun I have with woodworking is visualizing how a particular wood (once aged to the final color) will look in combination with the other woods I use. Besides, It is near impossible to create clear, concise patterns with stain. Not so with different woods glued up in any pattern you want.

 I do sometimes use Boiled Linseed oil (BLO) to finish projects. While the effect is completely different from Lacquer, it is extremely easy to use as it is applied with a rag and then after some amount of time it is wiped off and allowed to dry. BLO leaves a satin finish and requires reapplication over time (about every 6 months to a year). You won't get that ultra high gloss finish with BLO, in fact you won't get any gloss with BLO, but it does have its place. It also colors the wood, but not necessarily in a bad way. Example, Paduak starts out almost orange. With Lacquer and a relatively dark room it will stay orange. In light it ages to a really nice warm brown. With BLO it turns a deep red over time.


----------



## dbfreak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kuroguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I make zero clearance inserts with a thickness planer and scroll saw. Tell your wife the planer and scroll saw will pay for themselves in the money you'll save by making your own inserts. 

 Don't tell her it will actually take about thirty inserts to break even and you just might pull this one off. 

 Never lose sight of the goal. You can never have too many power tools._

 

I have a Rigid R4516 and am unable to find a zero clearance insert since this is a new model saw. Could you make me a blank if I provide the dimensions?


----------



## kuroguy

Sorry to say, but I've no time for even my own projects lately. That on top of getting ready to move has left me with many of my tools already packed for the duration. 

 If you don't have a planer and scroll saw you should be able to get by with a belt sander and jig saw or even a coping saw.

 Besides, you will need at least one for straight cuts and another one for 45 degree miters.


----------



## oneplustwo

So what's the technique? Just make a piece that fits the profile and is the right thickness and then just run the dado/kerf/whatever blade through it with a piece of scrap on top?


----------



## kuroguy

pretty much. Thickness is important. if it is too thick the work will get caught on it when you try top feed it into the blade. if it is too thi the work will get caught leaving the insert. So, make the insert, lower the blade, install the insert, turn on the saw, and slowly raise the blade through the insert. No worry about tearout as it will occur on the bottom of the insert where the teeth exit the slot. You'll need a different insert for each thickness blade (or dado) and miter angle. Come to think of it, you might need 30 of these in time.


----------



## oneplustwo

are these zero clearance inserts really that important? i'm still a noob at this stuff, but as long as you're not cutting really thin stuff, does it make a big difference?


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what's the technique? Just make a piece that fits the profile and is the right thickness and then just run the dado/kerf/whatever blade through it with a piece of scrap on top?_

 

oneplustwo, here's a video demonstrating how to make a zero clearance:

ShopNotes Magazine - Making a Zero-Clearance Insert


----------



## oneplustwo

Perfect! That doesn't seem all that hard. Thanks for the link! (Hmm... maybe I need to join a woodworking forum... suggestions on the head-fi equivalent?)


----------



## lynxkcg

The ZCI is nice, but most of the time any areas that get torn out that end up inside a piece, usually not viewable even from the inside. Certainly worth the money, but if it's no replacement for a good blade.


----------



## oneplustwo

Argh! I need to upgrade my blade too!? I've only made a few cuts with my stock blade, but it seems pretty good so far. Do I need a finer toothed one for cleaner cuts? Dado set is on the way already.


----------



## kuroguy

get a good sharp carbide tipped blade and it will do rips and cross cuts. The insert supports the edge of the wood and stops all tearout. This is important as the last part of the cut on the bottom of the piece is not always hidden inside the finished product. Besides, for a few minutes and a piece of scrap wood you really can't go wrong.

 Another tip. Sharp tools cut best. That's pretty obvious. Resin from the wood will stick to the tips of your blades, in effect, making the cutting edge dull. I regularly clean my blades by soaking in thinner (acetone, lacquer thinner, or whatever I have around at the time) and brushing with a coarse brush. The difference between a clean blade and one gummed up with resin from the wood is night and day.


----------



## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_oneplustwo, here's a video demonstrating how to make a zero clearance:

ShopNotes Magazine - Making a Zero-Clearance Insert
_

 

I don't usually cut the slot in it prior to installing it. I find it easier and more accurate to just install it and raise the blade through it.


----------



## kuroguy

One more tip:

 I use parafin (or even candle wax) to lubricate the accessory tracks on my table saws and other tools. Easiest is to rub it on the tool that slides in the track such as your sliding table and other jigs. It keeps the jigs from binding while cutting (aluminum makes a terrible bearing surface) and will even tighten up your jigs so there is less play between them and the tracks on your tools. Less play means more accurate cuts.


----------



## oneplustwo

Thanks for the tips! Any suggestions on how many teeth? Or what number of teeth is better for what jobs?


----------



## DoYouRight

zkool are you building your way up through Cavalli? I think you have the skill to skip to the best models now. Or do you want progression? And any chance youll do a B22?


----------



## dbfreak

.


----------



## dbfreak

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Argh! I need to upgrade my blade too!? I've only made a few cuts with my stock blade, but it seems pretty good so far. Do I need a finer toothed one for cleaner cuts? Dado set is on the way already._

 

In general yes. Depending on the power of you table's motor, you might want to check out some of the thin kerf blades that are available. They cut through harder/thicker woods with more ease, lightening up the load on the motor.

 I spend the money up front and get CMT, Amana or Freud blades. It's good to have one that deals with riping, one for cross cuts and one for plywood. I'm doing an acrylic enclosure for my Beta22 and have a Freud Plastic Blade on order (non melt, triple chip with a negative 3 degree rake).

 By the way, Simple Green diluted 1 part Simple Green to 4 parts water makes an excellent cleaner to remove pitch and resin from blades and router bits.


----------



## kuroguy

I think my 10" blade has about 80 carbide teeth. My 3-3/8" blade has 40 carbide teeth.


----------



## zkool448

More new stuff learned, great tips guys.

 oneplustwo, I think your tool inventory is growing rather well based on your recent purchases – I envy you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 With what you have (and more arriving soon) I’m convinced you’re headed towards Norm Abram’s standards within weeks. Too bad I can only do woodwork when weather permits, during winter in the garage is no fun without heat, a heated shop would be nice to have.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoYouRight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_zkool are you building your way up through Cavalli? I think you have the skill to skip to the best models now. Or do you want progression? And any chance youll do a B22?_

 

It appears that way doesn’t it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Actually (off-topic but since you asked), I’ve experienced and enjoyed solid state amps both owned and acquired by friends (some are ‘audiophile grade’, a/v, home theatre, etc.), but when I first heard the sound of tubes/valves it’s when I became more fascinated. For me, I knew the sonic qualities of tubes are the right sound that my ears long sought for, and ever since I centered my attention to tubes/hybrids type of projects only. I really wish this building ‘addiction’ would stop as its breaking my checkbook. Eventually I’ll end up rotating between 5-6 HP amps after my current project. I could sell a couple but I don’t think I want to - to me they’re all equally special and more importantly I built them myself


----------



## oneplustwo

If only... still need a router and router table. A planer and vacuum system would be nice. Band saw? Jig saw? Drum sander? Belt sander? A bunch of pipe clamps? *sigh* The list goes on and on.


----------



## smeggy

You noticed..


----------



## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Too bad I can only do woodwork when weather permits, during winter in the garage is no fun without heat, a heated shop would be nice to have._

 

Summer is a bit tough for me. it was 96 degrees here today. I can only use the shop late at night with the garage door open. By the way, the Florida state bird is the mosquito.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If only... still need a router and router table. A planer and vacuum system would be nice. Band saw? Jig saw? Drum sander? Belt sander? A bunch of pipe clamps? *sigh* The list goes on and on._

 

Regarding the planer, they only create a constant thickness board. A planer will not ensure that a board is flat. A jointer is required to to make the surface flat. That being said, it is of no use having a planer that is wider than your jointer unless you purchase S3S wood. 

 You can easily get buy without a band saw for a long time unless you plan to resaw wood (to make thinner planks like two 3/8" thick boards from a single 4/4 board). I'd put this tool way down on the list.

 Skip the jig saw too (although you can get one for $50) and get a scroll saw. It is much easier to make accurate cuts and you can clamp a fence to the table to make straight cuts with it. A suitable one can be had for $99. 

 Regarding the drum sander, You can attach a sanding drum to a drill press and the I guarantee you'll use a drill press more than a drum sander.

 I must say that a belt sander is quite useful. get a bench sander with a high speed disk on it. I use the disk sander to tune up miter cuts all the time. It is very accurate. 

 TIP: purchase a couple of 45/45/90 triangles from the art supply and use them to set your miter gages exactly 90 degrees or 45 degrees to the sanding disk/table saw blade.

 For clamps I said before I use rubber bands, shock cord, and binder clips. You can get enough for pretty much any project for less than $20. I also have a nail gun and use it to attach scraps of wood to a scrap of melamine board to aid in assembly. That, some bands or shock cord, and a plastic bag between the work to prevent it from sticking to the wood clamps works great for the stuff I do. I've attached a photo showing how I do this.


----------



## oneplustwo

Thanks for the perspective. I think I may play with the toys I already have for a while and figure out where to go from there. The router and router table will probably be the next item on my list. I do have an old POS craftsman router from about 10 years ago that I might be able to resurrect and put it to good use. Still need to figure out if I want to build or buy a router table though.

 A scroll saw and sanding drum are pretty small and not too expensive so they might be next. Belt/disc sander might be something I start shopping for and if I find a good deal, I might pull the trigger. Eventually, I'll have to have some output from all these toys though.


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The router and router table will probably be the next item on my list..<snip>...Still need to figure out if I want to build or buy a router table though._

 

You already have all the tools to DIY it. Some ideas here and also the tracks/accessories available online, rest are all from scrap hard wood.


----------



## DoYouRight

Could someone help me with ideas for my B22 case. I want to use the same as FallenAngel/KrMathis that AMB designed himself. Just wider to accomodate 6 boards instead of 4. I would love your ideas for modifications to those, *zkool*


----------



## bobfig

hay guys i just finished my millet SS with a wooden case. here it is:















 BTW i call em' "Old Happy Guy" lol


----------



## oneplustwo

zkool - your router table looks awesome. especially since it is incorporated into your table saw table. how much space does it take up? is it removable/storable? do you happen to have plans for it? i'm a dummy when it comes to dreaming up stuff but I can follow directions ok. basically, i'm like a moderately smart monkey.


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoYouRight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could someone help me with ideas for my B22 case. I want to use the same as FallenAngel/KrMathis that AMB designed himself. Just wider to accomodate 6 boards instead of 4. I would love your ideas for modifications to those, *zkool*



_

 

Whoa, you're doing a 6-board version? sweet. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I highly recommend browsing through AMB's β22 gallery if you want to get ideas and see some of the most amazing looking b22 cases ever made -- you'll quickly agree their designs do *not* require any or further modifications IMO 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bobfig* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hay guys i just finished my millet SS with a wooden case. 
 BTW i call em' "Old Happy Guy" lol_

 

bobfig, as I mentioned in the ss thread i just love this little happy guy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Do you have any info and what tools needed to build the case? 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_zkool - your router table looks awesome. especially since it is incorporated into your table saw table. how much space does it take up? is it removable/storable? do you happen to have plans for it? i'm a dummy when it comes to dreaming up stuff but I can follow directions ok. basically, i'm like a moderately smart monkey._

 

I got the initial design from a Shopnotes mag article, then added the different variations I picked up on the web and incorporated them all to mine (built it over 6 years ago). If you search for _router table_, you will find plenty of ideas and plans and also some suggestions whether you should build or buy (example). My table is fixed and 24" deep (particle board/melamine sheet stock from home depot) and edged treated with oak. It cannot be collapsed or stored away unfortunately.

 I'd suggest to go with an adjustable and taller fence for those vertical routing. You can opt for a router plate insert (check for compatibility with your router model) which you'll have to inlay on the surface, or even better (depending on your budget) get a Jessem lift as listen2this recommends. The tracks are definitely a must which provide the adjustability/flexibility and ease when adding accessories to both the table and fence.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

 bobfig, as I mentioned in the ss thread i just love this little happy guy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Do you have any info and what tools needed to build the case? 
_

 

that whole thing was just made with 5 tools: table saw, drill press, scroll saw, router, and sander. it was pretty easy to make because the wood i got from HD was already finished smooth and i just had to cut it into pieces.


----------



## wotblake

There are some really fantastic set-ups here. I ran a cabinet shop for years. I may need to try my hand at this.


----------



## smeggy

Due to little free time this is another rush job, bought the wood this morning and set to it as time allowed. Beta 22 in generic steel case with canarywood and a marble tile.











 It was a busy day using just the table saw and a sander/elbow grease. 1 coat of sanding sealer and two coats of satin laquer.

 Still need to do the sides and clean the rest up but it's working out ok so far. Never tried canarywood before, pretty easy to work with but has a deep grain to it so shiny finishes look sucky unless you have time to fill all the grain.


----------



## johnwmclean

smeggy, that’s lovely mate. A very productive day indeed.


----------



## JamesL

That looks amazing smeggy! That's gotta be one of my favorite up to date, but are you going to do something about ventilation?


----------



## smeggy

Cheers, 
 Yes, the ventilation is fine for now as the tile doesn't block the vents, just sits over them supported by the side pieces, like another component. However, I still have a lot to do inside and out so it'll all get addressed as I make progress.


----------



## Nebby

Your rush job > my rush job. I bow down to the master


----------



## wiatrob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Due to little free time this is another rush job, bought the wood this morning and set to it as time allowed. Beta 22 in generic steel case with canarywood and a marble tile._

 

Nice work Smeggy - AND - it's a coaster!


----------



## oneplustwo

Smeggy - that's awesome! Where do you get fancy wood from? Local lumberyard? Online?


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Smeggy, this is one classy and attractive lookin’ b22! That’s really an inspiring design which gives us lots of ideas.

 I like the tones on that canary wood. I wouldn’t worry about shine since I think sometimes it’s desirable to show deep grains, much like oak where the beauty and variation in grain are to be expected – can’t wait to see the final product


----------



## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn’t worry about shine since I think sometimes it’s desirable to show deep grains, much like *oak *where the beauty and variation in grain are to be expected..._

 

On that note, filling the grain of red oak with lacquer is a huge pain in the ass. Red oak has hollow tubes that run the entire length of the grain. To prove this, you can use a scrap of red oak as a drinking straw. What happens is the lacquer seeps into these holes and displaces the air that was there. when this happens a very small air bubble forms in the finish. These bubbles ruin the glossy finish. There are 2 methods for preventing this from happening: 

 1. apply many, many very thin layers of lacquer - on the order of 25-30. and
 2. take a vow to never again use red oak. 

 I've pretty much gone with method 2 but sometimes nothing fits the color scheme like red oak. Each time this has occurred I've sworn off method 1 again.


----------



## zkool448

After reading that... I'll take option #2 please.


----------



## pabbi1

Swore I'd never use any oak again, until I happened onto some dark English oak... a bit denser, and less open grain. but never, ever white or red again, no matter how conveniently Home Depot cuts and stores it.


----------



## smeggy

It's a pity really as some oak looks really nice if not for that impossible structure. One day I'll find a good grain filler that is quick and works really well. The Canary wood has a very nice grain pattern and look but it does have deep open grain, hard to get really smooth and would probably look worse with stain because of that. 

 It is easy to work though so it's not all bad, relatively cheap too for an 'exotic'. Looking at the pictures, it's starting to remind me of a bedside table. I should add legs to it


----------



## gychang

Kuroguy: What is the best way to "seal" the MDF so I can spray can paint it? I would like to "simulate" copper in particular.

 gychang


----------



## rshuck

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gychang* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kuroguy: What is the best way to "seal" the MDF so I can spray can paint it? I would like to "simulate" copper in particular.

 gychang_

 

I believe that MDF is directly finishable, but you should always start with a coat or two of primer just to be sure.


----------



## DoYouRight

what's even better about Smeggy's case is there is also an EHHA in there! So left 1/4 is B22 and right is EHHA HOW COOL IS THAT!


----------



## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gychang* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Kuroguy: What is the best way to "seal" the MDF so I can spray can paint it? I would like to "simulate" copper in particular.

 gychang_

 

That's a zkool question. He's done some beautiful stuff with MDF. If I had to guess, a full series of sanding thru about 600 grit followed by several coats of primer sprayed on followed by several coats of spray enamel, but I'll let zkool answer this one.


----------



## zkool448

gychang, kuroguy and rshuck are correct, key is to sand the surface well then apply several light coats of _sandable_ primer from the automotive dept., let dry completely then sand some more with finer grit. Remove all dust completely before spraying with few light coats of paint. 

 Note that all canned spray paint lose their sheen after a while, so top coat the finish with poly/varathane as your final step. It also protects the surface from dings and scratches.


----------



## Emooze

First real woodworking and I think its coming out ok. Gloss black paint on poplar. This is after the first coat of polyurethane. Naturally, it got dusty...


----------



## zkool448

Lookin good emooze, thanks fo sharing. Any learnings from the case build? If dust is a problem, have you tried using those 'quick-dry' poly spray so that dust do not have a chance to settle? Also once fully dry, you should try buffing and smooth the surface then lay some more light coats. 

 BTW, what is the case going to house?


----------



## Emooze

I'm learning i need some better saws and clamps to make better joins for corners. The dust was an issue because for the first time in a month it was hot in my area and I had the garage doors open... Fixed it with a quick sanding and relocation. I've been lightly sanding every 2 light coats. Gonna let it cure for a week or more too before any final polishing.

 My M3 and Sigma 11 are going inside.


----------



## zkool448

Bijou casework:

_mock-up sketch:_





_actual progress:_


----------



## mattcalf

Looking amazing as always zk.
 If I ever come to Canada I will gaze upon/listen to/steal one of your amps!


----------



## kuroguy

zkool,
 How did you cut that hole for the panel meters? It looks perfect, even at the corners. Cutting inside rectangles is at best, difficult for me.


----------



## fishski13

my CK2III/preamp/y-1 DAC. the second pic is with the matching Gainclone.

 brushed aluminum flanked with tung-oiled cherry.

 i wish i had a better camera. the cherry turned out quite nice. i use a liberal first coat, sand with 320, wipe with paint thinner to remove the dust, 3 more coats of tung-oil, then a final sand of 0000 steel wool.


----------



## tintin47

fishski, that is a fantastic looking case. I really like the switches. Would you mind posting a pic or two of the amp wit the cover off? I want to see how you put the aluminum part of the case together as I am thinking of doing something similar soon.


----------



## zkool448

hey fishski, you already know how I feel about your polished aluminum work -- another great build. I don't think I've seen it yet but when do you plan to unveil the Bijou? I'm sure it'll look as amazing as your previous work with the tubes hangin out from the top.

 Btw, Happy Birthday!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kuroguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_zkool, How did you cut that hole for the panel meters? It looks perfect, even at the corners. Cutting inside rectangles is at best, difficult for me._

 

Actually it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. I used the router to cut the square followed by a heavy gauge exacto knife/blade to take the corners of. Final touch was to file smooth the edges -- it wasn't overly difficult but I did take my time doing it. Also perhaps I'm using MDF and not a hard wood that's why it wasn't as hard (?).

 A scroll saw would've been the better option but sadly I don't own one.

 mattcalf, lol!


----------



## fishski13

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tintin47* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_fishski, that is a fantastic looking case. I really like the switches. Would you mind posting a pic or two of the amp wit the cover off? I want to see how you put the aluminum part of the case together as I am thinking of doing something similar soon._

 

thanks.

 scroll down to my post. also, check out the pic of the CK2III output transistors on the heatsink - you should be able to see the epoxied bolts on the inside of the wood sides:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/pos.../index353.html

 next time i would use these instead of sinking and epoxying a bolt:#10-24 Steel Threaded Inserts, Steel, Threaded Inserts, Fasteners - McFeely's

 and here's a naked shot of the Gainclone with a better view of the brackets:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/pos...ml#post5714033

 measuring and cutting the brackets is time consuming, but allows me a little slop to secure everyting butts to nuts.


----------



## fishski13

zkool448;5823441 said:
			
		

> hey fishski, you already know how I feel about your polished aluminum work -- another great build. I don't think I've seen it yet but when do you plan to unveil the Bijou? I'm sure it'll look as amazing as your previous work with the tubes hangin out from the top.
> 
> Btw, Happy Birthday!
> QUOTE]
> ...


----------



## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A scroll saw would've been the better option but sadly I don't own one._

 

I have one and find it terribly difficult to get perfectly straight lines, even with a fence on the scroll saw. 

 I've used a table saw before, but the length of the side of the rectangle needs to be near or greater than the diameter of the blade. Works ok with my mini table saw, but I'm usually working blind. 

 Do you use that nice router table to cut rectangles or do you make a template?


----------



## tintin47

Thanks. That is beautiful work.


----------



## jdkJake

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey fishski, you already know how I feel about your polished aluminum work -- another great build. I don't think I've seen it yet but when do you plan to unveil the Bijou? I'm sure it'll look as amazing as your previous work with the tubes hangin out from the top.

 Btw, Happy Birthday!



 Actually it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. I used the router to cut the square followed by a heavy gauge exacto knife/blade to take the corners of. Final touch was to file smooth the edges -- it wasn't overly difficult but I did take my time doing it. Also perhaps I'm using MDF and not a hard wood that's why it wasn't as hard (?).

 A scroll saw would've been the better option but sadly I don't own one.

 mattcalf, lol! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Man, that is some nice work!

 Do you find MDF difficult to work with? I found it cuts easy, but, also chips easy if you are not careful. Any advice?

 How are you going to finish it? (if you don't mind me asking)

 Thanks

 jk


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kuroguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have one and find it terribly difficult to get perfectly straight lines, even with a fence on the scroll saw. 

 I've used a table saw before, but the length of the side of the rectangle needs to be near or greater than the diameter of the blade. Works ok with my mini table saw, but I'm usually working blind. 

 Do you use that nice router table to cut rectangles or do you make a template?_

 

Kuroguy, no I didn’t use a template but I’ll describe how the face plate came to be. 

 First I carefully machined the face plate ‘slopes’ on each side and the middle which I thought was the difficult part because the router bit left a bunch of ‘lines’ behind. I had to sand a lot and made sure the surface was absolutely flat. After that I recessed the holes for the knobs, then marked and drilled the HP jack and Bulgin switch holes. 2-3 hours later, I realized the next step was going to be even harder which is cutting out the rectangle window for the vu meters. I knew that if I screwed up at that point, all the work I just did would’ve been wasted. So I carefully laid out the measurements of the VU on the face plate, used the table router along with stop blocks, guides and clamps, and the router fence then I slowly routed out the inside rectangle as precisely as I possibly could. I kept my hands steady and the fact that I didn’t want to have to start over from scratch, I really took my time doing it. I think the secret is patience and go at it real slow while trying to stay within the lines.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jdkJake* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you find MDF difficult to work with? I found it cuts easy, but, also chips easy if you are not careful. Any advice?

 How are you going to finish it? (if you don't mind me asking)_

 

jdkJake, actually I find working with MDF easier than regular hard wood. I just make sure that I use really sharp saw blades and/or router bits.

 The finish will be done the same way as I did the top lids for my SOHA II and CTH (see my sig). cheers.


----------



## kuroguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 2-3 hours later, I realized the next step was going to be even harder which is cutting out the rectangle window for the vu meters._

 

My thoughts exactly. It is without a doubt, the most difficult part of machining the faceplate for me.
  Quote:


 So I carefully laid out the measurements of the VU on the face plate, used the table router along with stop blocks, guides and clamps, and the router fence... 
 

I assume you used a straight bit to do the cutting. Was that an 1/8" bit you used? 

  Quote:


 jdkJake, actually I find working with MDF easier than regular hard wood. 
 

 That's probably because MDF doesn't have a grain to it.


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kuroguy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My thoughts exactly. It is without a doubt, the most difficult part of machining the faceplate for me.

 I assume you used a straight bit to do the cutting. Was that an 1/8" bit you used?_

 

Straight bit yes, but used the Freud 1/4" since it was my favorite/sharpest I have 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'm pretty happy with the result, but in your opinion do you think using an exacto knife first to outline the rectangle cut before routing it out would've yielded to better/sharper edges? I'll have to try that on a piece of scrap next time I'm in the shop.


----------



## kuroguy

I doubt you would get a better edge by starting the cuts with an exacto blade. My understanding is that MDF dulls edges faster than hardwood. My guess is that if you are getting any tearout the solution lies with a bit that is sharper than the one you used.

 By the way, I've had good results (by that, I mean less of a pain getting it right) with a router and fence followed up with a "Scary Sharp" wood chisel to clean up the corners.


----------



## smeggy

modded a too-small case to fit the EHHA, S22 and Pico DAC.
















 I had to make the case about 1/2" taller inside to accommodate the board sinks.

 Paduac front and side strips, lacquered and tint toned with brown lacquer at the edges/ends. Case painted with black appliance enamel.

 Not the best fit 'n' finish but I'm always in a rush. Still need to finish up the wiring inside.


----------



## zkool448

ahhh, clever. I have a _not so tall_ case I could have used but only if I saw this idea weeks earlier -- dang!

 Looks good as usual smeggy! true DIY case design


----------



## holland

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_modded a too-small case to fit the EHHA, S22 and Pico DAC._

 

Cool...nipples...


----------



## mourip

The Hafler amp on your desk brings back memories. That was my first attempt at building. 

 I love the small of solder.

 Nice work on the HP amp!


----------



## zkool448

A few more trims and cuts, add vent holes to top and bottom plate then PLENTY of sanding (not looking forward to) before she can be finished/painted. 

 Pic of dry fit/progress of the Bijou MDF casework...


----------



## smeggy

looking damn nice as always Joel 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can't wait to see it finished!


----------



## wiatrob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A few more trims and cuts, add vent holes to top and bottom plate then PLENTY of sanding (not looking forward to) before she can be finished/painted. 

 Pic of dry fit/progress of the Bijou MDF casework...
_

 

Dude The tube layout isn't symmetrical!! I've lost all respect for your work! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 'course I'm kidding... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 very nice retro feel and a nice extension of your previous work!


----------



## MoodySteve

Just when I thought my Bijou may be the belle of the ball, you have to come up with that...






 Seriously, that's a very nice job - has a very sleek retro aesthetic going for it. 

 Regarding Forstner bits, how much of a difference does it make to use a not-so-pricy set from someone like Porter Cable or Grizzly rather than Freud, in your experience?


----------



## pabbi1

Joel, that is nice. Very nice.


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoodySteve* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Regarding Forstner bits, how much of a difference does it make to use a not-so-pricy set from someone like Porter Cable or Grizzly rather than Freud, in your experience?_

 

If you can, I'd recommend getting BORMAX bits, way better and faster than any other Forstner style bit I've come across. They are more costly but they are so fast, clean and more heat resistant they more than pay for themselves in ease of use. The slice through the wood like crazy.


----------



## zkool448

Thanks guys!

 Feels like I’ve been building this case forever 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. It has been exasperating ...but after reading your nice compliments you've made it all worth the effort - cheers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoodySteve* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how much of a difference does it make to use a not-so-pricy set from someone like Porter Cable or Grizzly rather than Freud, in your experience?_

 

Unfortunately I've not tried any other brands. I've had the Freuds for over 6-7 years and they're still very good. I've used them a lot not only for recessing or through holes but usually for starter/guide holes before I take the wood to the router table.


----------



## balderon

WOW I like the lines! As expected, another fine job Joel!






 What are your plans for the colour scheme?


----------



## oneplustwo

ZK - what are you planning on doing with the top as far as finish? Also, how are you attaching the top to the rest of the case? I'm trying to figure out what to do with the top of mine.


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *balderon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What are your plans for the colour scheme?_

 

Thanks Jeff! No I’ve not decided on the color scheme yet. I’ll check the auto paint aisles see what color combo catches my eye 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ZK - what are you planning on doing with the top as far as finish? Also, how are you attaching the top to the rest of the case? I'm trying to figure out what to do with the top of mine._

 

Top plate will be painted with high heat enamel then poly/lacquer top coat. I’m using head screws to mount the top plate to corner triangle blocks with nut inserts. 






 If the wood case was a hard wood, the quick easy way is tapped holes to the case fame like I did the CTH top lid.


----------



## oneplustwo

Ahh, nice. Another question. I made a frame for the "panel" for the top of the DAC enclosure I'm making. I thought the miters were tight but when i turned it over after gluing, turns out there's a small gap at one joint. Any way to hide/fix it?

 EDIT: The frame is made of 1x2 birch so you have an idea of the size of the joint. The gap is probably on the order of 1/32".


----------



## AnA1995

Hi zkool448, I am always impress by your case building skill. If I have the skill like yours, I am surely could make a living out of it. Well done.


----------



## kuroguy

Search this thread for "goop" in a posting by me. I posted near the beginning the method I use which works very well.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ahh, nice. Another question. I made a frame for the "panel" for the top of the DAC enclosure I'm making. I thought the miters were tight but when i turned it over after gluing, turns out there's a small gap at one joint. Any way to hide/fix it?

 EDIT: The frame is made of 1x2 birch so you have an idea of the size of the joint. The gap is probably on the order of 1/32"._


----------



## oneplustwo

Cool, thanks. I also read about putting a little glue in the gap and then sanding over it so the dust from sanding fills the void with the glue. I'll try it and post pics.


----------



## kuroguy

I've found that the best is to mix it on a scrap of something and apply the "paste" to the work. Work it into the joint as well as you can; the deeper the better. Too much glue and it won't match. Too little and it will just flake away. you're looking for something the consistency of drywall spackle.


----------



## oneplustwo

does it take a finish well? i'm going to use tung oil.


----------



## kuroguy

I've not used tung oil, but Boiled Linseed Oil works well so I suspect Tung will work well too.


----------



## pabbi1

Make a good little pile of sawdust (easy if you have a jointer or belt sander), further grind the dust with you fingers, pestle or a small blender, then use a toothpick or paper clip to force glue into the gap, then push in the sawdust. The hope is that the glue will adhere on the bottom, and leave mostly wood exposed. You can repeat the process, then sand back down. This will help give the most uniforn finish surface especially with oil finish.

 I save almost all my exotic wood dust in coffee cans, so I always have something close.


----------



## jdkJake

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I save almost all my exotic wood dust in coffee cans, so I always have something close._

 

That's a great idea.

 Hmm, If you have enough, I wonder if you could have someone press some of that into board form? Might be a REALLY interesting pattern/grain.

 Then again, maybe not. Still, might be an interesting piece of material for sure.

 jk


----------



## pabbi1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jdkJake* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's a great idea.

 Hmm, If you have enough, I wonder if you could have someone press some of that into board form? Might be a REALLY interesting pattern/grain.

 Then again, maybe not. Still, might be an interesting piece of material for sure.

 jk_

 

Yeah, I probably have 2-3 lbs of rosewood, koa, limba, walnut and pine (plywood) dust in my shop vac, sadly along with a little bit of aluminum shavings, but, if someone wants it, I'll certainly send a big baggie full.


----------



## fishski13

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_does it take a finish well? i'm going to use tung oil._

 

tung oil even takes to Liquid Nails and epoxy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## holland

that looks too nice, zk, as usual.


----------



## zkool448

Cheers ana1995 & holland 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 oneplustwo, miter joints are really tough to perfect. The glue/sawdust mix definitely works well in filling those stubborn miter gaps... Is it possible your saws may need recalibrated? Should really help a lot to minimize those miter gaps in the future.


----------



## oneplustwo

I think the saw is fine. I think my miter gauge might be lacking. I just got the rocker sled with the kickass fence so hopefully it will be better from here on out. Need to make sure the sled is square and the other setup is good. Then I think it should be fine.


----------



## vixr

some of my older stuff...

 CK2III





 Bijou





 Millett MAX


----------



## zkool448

nice builds vixr!


----------



## oneplustwo

Buffalo 32S with volumite, XLR, RCA, headphone out, optical in. Not quite done yet... Gotta finish up some wiring.

 Poplar case, birch top, both finished with a few coats of tung oil.

 Still haven't figured out the top exactly. I'm thinking about just laying it on top or putting some pieces in so it lightly press fits inside (the panel hangs down below the surface of the casing.)


----------



## zkool448

Nice woodwork oneplustwo! I see you've made good progress with the Buffalo, can't wait to see it all wired up and running


----------



## zkool448

I've been busy at work and it has been difficult to find any spare time lately. Anyway last night I got to spend a couple of hours with casework. I've wired the TREAD already which will supply the DC voltages for the VU meter, vu buffer boards (L + R) and the LED for the bulgin switch.

 Here are some pics of my Bijou case progress.

 Using external blue LED instead of the built-in meter lights.





 Two coats of sandable primer, sanded, then two light coat of semi-gloss enamel (aluminum tone)


----------



## Forte

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zkool448* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here are some pics of my Bijou case progress.


 Two coats of sandable primer, sanded, then two light coat of semi-gloss enamel (aluminum tone)
 [_

 


 Looks great, looking at that last shot its hard to believe it is mdf. 

 How did you apply the paint, spray cans or spraygun and how durable is a painted finish?


----------



## zkool448

Thanks forte. Ideally a spray gun is better but I don't have one and just use spray cans. The brand I use is Tremclad (high heat variety, auto grade) which is actually more durable than regular types. I also like to add a final coat of semi-gloss acrylic polyurethane which adds additional protection and hardness to the mdf.


----------



## Sathimas

Here are two pictures of my coming M³ case.
 You see the top and the bottom side/back of the case.







 

 In the background on the pic with the case you can see the cnc-drilled stainless steel frontpanel.

 Hope to post the finished project in about 2 weeks.
 And - I know - the pictures are horrible 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll make better ones of the finished amp


----------



## Mizu

I haven't seen any Mini3 or Cmoy custom casing, in wood. Is this because they are too small or not worth it ?


----------



## smeggy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mizu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't seen any Mini3 or Cmoy custom casing, in wood. Is this because they are too small or not worth it ?_

 

Cmoy in wood was done ages ago, it's called the Grado RA-1


----------



## dbfreak

zkool448:

 re: "I've been busy at work and it has been difficult to find any spare time lately. Anyway last night I got to spend a couple of hours with casework. I've wired the TREAD already which will supply the DC voltages for the VU meter, vu buffer boards (L + R) and the LED for the bulgin switch.

 Here are some pics of my Bijou case progress.

 (pics)"

 Are those grooves in the front sides/corners done with a bowl & tray router bit?


----------



## danobeavis

Here's a couple of preamp enclosures I'm working on. Wood and finished aluminum from basic stock.


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dbfreak* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_zkool448:

 re: "I've been busy at work and it has been difficult to find any spare time lately. Anyway last night I got to spend a couple of hours with casework. I've wired the TREAD already which will supply the DC voltages for the VU meter, vu buffer boards (L + R) and the LED for the bulgin switch.

 Here are some pics of my Bijou case progress.

 (pics)"

 Are those grooves in the front sides/corners done with a bowl & tray router bit?_

 

dbfreak, I think that's what that bit is called. You can see the same bit I used from my CTH build log here when I worked the top lid.

 BTW I just finished my case, I'm cross-posting the pics here since this is a casework thread afterall 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Top view, really tried to keep the wires as neat as I could but it's just not my stong suit.





 Shot of a pair of vu meter buffer/divers from JLM audio





 Finished the top lid with plenty of vents, and it also fits nicely! Time to put my tools away and take more pics.





 Closer look at the top lid, my hymble ayyempt to mimic a “brushed” look





 View from the back, installing the neutriks are so painless, I think I’ll keep using them





 ..and finally enjoying some music. Cheers!


----------



## Xan7hos

zk that thing is freakin amazing!


----------



## Listen2this1

Zk, That is one of the nicest amps I have seen to date, commerical and non.


----------



## zkool448

Many thanks guys 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Now, hurry up and get to your casework so we can see you beautiful creations!


----------



## MoodySteve

zkool - spectacular work - easily your best yet (to my eyes) and I expect it'll be a source of pride for years to come. You make me realize how much I have to learn about woodworking. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The only thing I would have done differently is counterbore the holes for the fastening screws on the top plate so that the heads don't protrude, but that's my personal aesthetic rearing its head.

 I hope to have the casework on my Bijou completed in the next month or so, but I'm not holding my breath.


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoodySteve* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You make me realize how much I have to learn about woodworking. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If you have the tools that I have, I promise you can do it. Yes counterbored holes would look quite nice indeed, I’d consider it definitely it’s just I wanted to keep the look consistent with my CTH and SOHA II tops. 

 Please post up pics of your Bijou once it’s done!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ZK - what are you planning on doing with the top as far as finish? Also, how are you attaching the top to the rest of the case? I'm trying to figure out what to do with the top of mine._

 

oneplustwo, FYI note that I didn’t go with my original plan with triangle blocks for corner mounting since I had limited space. Instead I used L-brackets with threaded nuts (J-B welded underside screw holes). Just another option to mount the top lid.


----------



## stew1234

That case looks amazing.


----------



## Steve Eddy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *danobeavis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's a couple of preamp enclosures I'm working on. Wood and finished aluminum from basic stock._

 

Neat.

 Are you intending that they remain open-frame like this even when finished?

 k


----------



## oneplustwo

This thread can't be dying off already! Here's some progress against the front panel for a Buffalo32S I'm working on:






 It's just a piece of birch from HD. Planning on tung oil and polyurethane finish after rounding over the edges.


----------



## qusp

awesome work on the Bijou zkool448, what is the model number of that LED switch you used if you dont mind?? and where did you get it?? its little finishes like that thet I would like to use for my B32 build. also do you have any experience getting wood laser-cut?? wondering if there is anything in particular I need to be aware of. of course with your skill its unlikely you have bothered to get any done, but thought I would ask you and the thread. i'm making a mixed media case with diecast, clear acrylic and some Amboyna that I have left over from some denon cups. so I wont be doing the work, but I have designed all the panels in illustrator and cad. does that count?? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




_


----------



## suo

zkool that bijou cannot possibly be DIY. Phenomenal work.


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This thread can't be dying off already! _

 

hi oneplustwo, perhaps some folks are just a bit shy to post their DIY enclosures 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 or mostly just hold off until their builds are finished before sharing their tips and pics.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oneplustwo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's some progress against the front panel for a Buffalo32S I'm working on: 
 It's just a piece of birch from HD. Planning on tung oil and polyurethane finish after rounding over the edges._

 

Nice work there. I think you're pretty lucky since my local home depot don’t even carry birch, just some maple, oak, and pine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_awesome work on the Bijou zkool448, what is the model number of that LED switch you used if you dont mind?? and where did you get it?? its little finishes like that thet I would like to use for my B32 build. also do you have any experience getting wood laser-cut?? wondering if there is anything in particular I need to be aware of. of course with your skill its unlikely you have bothered to get any done, but thought I would ask you and the thread. i'm making a mixed media case with diecast, clear acrylic and some Amboyna that I have left over from some denon cups. so I wont be doing the work, but I have designed all the panels in illustrator and cad. does that count?? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




__

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *suo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_zkool that bijou cannot possibly be DIY. Phenomenal work._

 

Thanks guys 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Gusp, I believe the switch is the same latching stainless Bulgin illuminated switch that most folks here have. The part number from Mouser is 117-MP0045/1E2BL012 

 Sorry you're right I’ve never really looked into getting wood laser cut. You’re enclosure sounds like a good project, it sure does count especially if you are designing the panels yourself -- I really think the best results come out of well thought out designs IMHO. Please post some before and after pics!

 After a nice two week vacation, here is something new I quickly put together before I returned to work this week, a Flexy rack (sorry, not casework related) which idea I stumbled upon from this post over the weekend. The rack I think is definitely one of the simplest, easiest solution, and attractive build that anyone can easily do. It only took 1 hr to cut the shelves, drill the holes and sand, another 30 minutes to stain, then 1 hr to level/assemble = 2.5hrs total.






 I do feel however that I need to add one or two more shelves to it ready for my next projects down the road (anticipating release of the Cavalli EHPA





)

p.s. In case some of you missed it, I did post a youtube video a few days ago with the Bijou vu meters in action. cheers.


----------



## ThePredator

Here is the case I am going to build to put a gainclone in. I kept it simple since it will be my first fully DIY enclosure and I am still designing the panels/jacks (hopefully I can get more accurate than usual on the drill press by printing out the design and taping it to the panel).

 BTW, the gap is for airflow since it will be made out of MDF.


----------



## oneplustwo

Some progress on the front panel for a Buffalo 32S (same panel as the one I posted previously.) Rounded the edges and got some tung oil on it. Still gotta polyurethane. (Will be my first time with it so I'm hoping it goes well.)

 Rear panel:




 Still have to make the holes for the USB and Toslink... darn square holes.

 The guts:





 3 channel beta with encapsulated toroid, speaker and preouts, switched RCA inputs, stepped attenuator, and switched headphone jack.








 This is my first Sumner toroid so I want to verify the wiring before I put power to it. It's already been tested with another toroid so it should be straight forward from there on out.

 The guts:


----------



## Lil' Knight

Looks awesome!


----------



## Sathimas

Here are some pictures of my finally finished AMB M³.
 Took me about one and a half year to finish it because I just didn't have the time.

 Front:



 Front:


 
 Back:


 
 M³ and his companions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Material is walnut wood and stainless steel.
 The front panel was done on a cnc machine, some of the wood-work was done by a carpenter.
 I am working in the workshop of my grandfather, his machines aren't accourate enough sometimes.
 If I had the machines I would have done all of the woodwork, there's nothing really difficult about it.

 The SOHA II you see is only a guest, it belongs to my father and came here for some repair.
 (But it's also built be me.)


----------



## MoodySteve

That's mighty fine work, Sathimas. I really dig the brushed metal/lacquered wood combination. The woodwork looks very clean and professional.

 For your LEDs - are you using clear or opaque? I use opaque LEDs and they work very well, although I use 3 behind a ~1" disc to light it evenly.

 +++
 I finally had a chance to take some time off from work and do some casework - here's where my Bijou case is currently at (shown with some hardware on the top plate). It's made of Home Depot grade hardwood, primed with grey Krylon primer and painted with Krylon cherry red topcoat. I have not done any sanding or polishing and it looks like I may not need to.

 The top plate is hand-polished aluminum.


----------



## Sathimas

I am using clear LEDs at the moment.
 Maybe I'll change them soon, I already drilled a second hole on both of the two knobs.
 (Bottom left side, right diagonal to the LED you see now.)
 It looks better with two LEDs but the direct light is still too bright.

 I also have to change the LED resitor for the input indicator LEDs, they're way too bright.


----------



## fault151

@ zkool448 , really love the builds, they look fantastic! My only comment is that you spent all that time creating them perfectly out of natural wood, but then you paint them up, why? If it were me i would leave them natural looking like you have on the Soha2, especially if i could get a finish like you acchieve! The wood just looks so clean and classy. My favourite is your soha 2. Great work.


----------



## zkool448

Very nice builds sathimas & moodysteve, luv it!

 sathimas, the top vent holes is very, very original. moodysteve, you really stuck with your original CAD design. Looking forward to the final product. I hope you guys won't mind if I steal some of your ideas 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 fault151, thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm definitely pleased how the soha ii turned out. I finished the "real" wood cases with natural or stained finished (mssh, cth, and soha ii) but painted the ones made with mdf (mssh build 2, bijou) to looked finished -- see page 1 of this thread to see what they looked like before I applied finish to them. cheers!


----------



## Alcaudon

Can't believe that this thread is diying so soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've recased an old Millet Max with a new case made of ipe wood, aluminium and methacrylate, hope you like it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



















 Also did a matching stand:


----------



## thefragger

*WOW!!!*

 That looks _great_, Alcaudon!


----------



## dean0

amazing work, very unique


----------



## fishski13

Alcaudon,
 stunning!

 here's my latest attempt: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/pos.../index395.html


----------



## MoodySteve

Alcaudon - Very very cool design! Nice woodwork and interesting way of making the ventilation look attractive. Care to share some more?

 fishki13 - Excellent job and great aesthetics! It's a perfectly balanced combination of finished wood and metal. A keeper for sure! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I accidentally converted a blind hole in my Bijou plate to a through hole so I had the hole welded shut and my friend is going to fly-cut the top again on an endmill to eliminate the weld marks. Which means I get to polish the plate to a mirror finish again. Hooray! I expect to be sharing some pics of the finished Bijou by the end of the year.


----------



## DoYouRight

Al you finally got that done! Way better than I expected and the stand OMG I still want one!


----------



## Alcaudon

Many thanks guys!!!! I'm glad you like it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoodySteve* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alcaudon - Very very cool design! Nice woodwork and interesting way of making the ventilation look attractive. Care to share some more?_

 

My father has an aluminium workshop, so I have access to all the aluminium I need and to professional tools. The ventilation grilles are made out of a cutoff of a rivet (not sure if the word is correct, had to look it down. I mean a profile used to hold glasses in place in windows and doors) that had a nice curvature. I just glued the pieces directly to the wood and covered the inside with a mesh to prevent dust from falling inside. Here's a picture of the inside:






 You can see a part of the inside of the top at the left.

 Is this what you meant MoodySteve? I can take a picture of any detail that you want to see with more detail


----------



## nattonrice

That's very slick~ Nice work


----------



## oneplustwo

Apologize for the cross post but I thought this would be appropriate for this thread as well:

 Twisted Pear Buffalo 32S:










 1. toslink, USB, and coax inputs
 2. k1000, XLR, RCA, and TRS output
 3. e24 on/off circuit
 4. dual mono power supply


----------



## aj-kun

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Alcaudon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can't believe that this thread is diying so soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've recased an old Millet Max with a new case made of ipe wood, aluminium and methacrylate, hope you like it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



















 Also did a matching stand:




_

 

how is the feng shui in that room? =]


----------



## aj-kun

double post


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Alcaudon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also did a matching stand:





_

 

Man, I love that stand! 

 Is that the President font or is it a different TrueType font?


----------



## Alcaudon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *BoilermakerFan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Man, I love that stand! 

 Is that the President font or is it a different TrueType font? 




_

 

Thanks bmf! I'm glad to see you like it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Right now I'm working in a new version, fully made of glass 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 The font is Bradley Hand ITC, a little tweaked with corel draw.


----------



## BoilermakerFan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Alcaudon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks bmf! I'm glad to see you like it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Right now I'm working in a new version, fully made of glass 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 The font is Bradley Hand ITC, a little tweaked with corel draw._

 

Thanks mate. 

 Do you have a link to the methacrylate sheet? Have you seen it in a Jade green by chance? 

 I'm building a Balanced F5 flanking my eXStata SS and the design requires a fair amount of mods to a pair of NABU chassis. I like the louvered look of the vents and need to do something to fill the 2" gap I'll need to have between the bottom PSU NABU and the top AMP NABU. I'll use magnets to hold the panels in place as I can't really have the two pieces bolted together for travel purposes.

 Looking forward to the glass version.


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## capernicus

zkool448, where do you get the nice big volume knobs? I have been scouring the internet for them. The only place I can find is: Audio Catalog but I'm guessing that shipping won't be cheap.


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## Prog Rock Man

I just wanted to post another picture and say this is simply stunning........


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## BobSaysHi

bump for an incredible thread


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## Badd99

bump great thread keep it going


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## Garage1217

I really dig the one with red leds above! Looks amazing!


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## Badd99

bump


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## Starfire

Just finished... Starving Student 12au7


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## willmax




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## Starfire

And another!  My M3 finished up last night, sound great but now thinking of selling both my Starving Student and M3 to build a B22...


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## Twinster

That is just amazing work!  I think you should make a similar wood case for the Objective 2 amplifier (O2) and resell it. It would be a killer combo.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





alcaudon said:


> Can't believe that this thread is diying so soon
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## dka1

Hi All, just found this topic. Awesome devices you built guys!
I thought I share my one too. It's a SE OTL and I'm about to purchase high impedance headphones.
Enclosure is made of two IKE@ Stockholm serving bowls. 6N1PE and 6S13S Russian tubes.


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## FrankCooter

Very creative and artistic use of normally banal  household materials!
  
 Looks like something Don Draper would have in his office.
  
 Love that "Mid Century" look.
  
 Thanks for reviving this  very interesting thread.


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## gilency

Agree. This is a piece of art!


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## Maverickmonk

dka1 said:


> Hi All, just found this topic. Awesome devices you built guys!
> I thought I share my one too. It's a SE OTL and I'm about to purchase high impedance headphones.
> Enclosure is made of two IKE@ Stockholm serving bowls. 6N1PE and 6S13S Russian tubes.


 
 This is possibly the coolest case design I've seen.  I'm such a sucker for mid century modern. I'm going to have to get creative with mine now,  that's just... that's great


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## dka1

Thanks Guys, I'm blushing 
(Un)fortunately, we often go to IKE@ with my wife for bits an pieces. We have a different point of view about shopping 
It's not really headphones amp but I'm using this small DAC/preamp for feeding my amp. It has a DAC with optical in, 2x analog inputs, Bluetooth and volume control with relais (6bit, 63 step). OLED display and RC5 remote. Still hasn't been finished, some acryllic work an anodising left.

Of course, IKE@ too, it's a candle holder.
Both designed, planned, programmed and made by me. Except raw PCB for preamp, I let it make as it is too complex to have a good result with home etching.
Hope you like it too, if interested,I can put a youtube link about it.
Thanks again for nice words.
Cheers,
Dez


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## WAAM

Has anyone of You tried to make enclosure out of clay (I mean proper ceramic-burned clay)? Just an idea that jumped into mind...


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## mik000000

I just finished this case for a millett max. i wanted to show off the work inside and this is what i came up with


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## tomb

Very nice home for a Millett MAX!


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## gilency

nice. Tempered glass or acrylic?


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## mik000000

gilency said:


> nice. Tempered glass or acrylic?


 

 the top is acrylic. i would have preferred glass, but with all the drilling would have been expensive. the acrylic was cheap and i could do the drilling myself. in hindsight, i would have opted for a light tint on the acrylic.  the base is a piece of 3/8" aluminum plate from work, so i have a total of $10 in the case. i will likely fab some kind of front plate and call it done


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## NiHaoMike

OpenDAC HD, a headphone DAC/amp my best friend and I built:

 https://github.com/NiHaoMike/OpenDAC-HD


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## zkool448

Hello folks, sorry it's been a while [I'm the OP]..  
  
 I completely forgot but my imageshack account, it expired and all my images got deleted.  I managed to salvage a few photos of my DIY cases and reposted them in post #1.  
  
 Great job with your cases guys, keep them coming -- Cheers!
  
 -zk


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