# HowTo: Build an Ultra-Slim LOD Cable



## Punnisher

I was tired of all the gargantuan LOD cables that stick out a mile so I made something that won't get caught as easily. You can stick in your coat pocket without fear of damaging your ipod. Plus it's more discrete as to not attract attention. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






 Parts Needed:
*
 Soldering Iron with a smaller than average tip. Cone tips work just fine.
 Small flat tipped screwdriver.
 Precision wire cutters.
 Needle Nose Pliers.
 Multimeter.
 Hot Glue Gun.
 iPod/Zen slim connector from Qables.
 Right angle Neutrik mini-plug.
 24AWG wire. Different sizes may be used but Don't go thicker than 22AWG.
 Some 1/8" heatshrink.
 Heat gun. *

 Lets pre-cut some wire, I used 3-1/8" pieces and it worked quite well for my 5.5g/Corda 2Move setup. You can try shortening or lengthening them depending on your setup.

 After your wire is cut, lay out all the pieces you'll need. Anything not pictured is not needed. 
 Two plastic halves, one clip button, ipod connector, three wires, and mini connector.





 First start by removing all pins from the connector *EXCEPT 2,3, and 4*. These pins are *Ground, Right, and Left* respectively. You can find info on the iPod pinout here: Apple iPod dock interface pinout and signals @ pinouts.ru

 Cut the pins short by about half. This will help make the LOD as slim as possible. Your connector should look something like this (you can see the shortened pins on photo #1 as well):





 Now remove the metal casing from the ipod connector. To make a tight fit without clips, you'll need to expand the metal in six places. Simply take a small screwdriver and press down on them slightly. After you're done bend the metal casing back so it fits tightly around the plastic. This is a good time to check the fit in your ipod. If it's too tight, make some adjustments to the raised bumps.
















 Next we prepare our three wires. You need to make sure you can tell them apart once we assemble the connector.

 1. Strip each wire about 1/16" on one side only.
 2. Bend this wire 90 degrees and tin it. Make sure you have a small blob of solder on it as well.
 3. Take two of those wires and strip them 1/8" on the other side. I colored one red to symbolize Right Channel.

 **Hint** When tinning these wires, do so quickly. If you leave heat on the solder for too long, you will dry up all the rosin in the solder. This will make soldering the wires to the pins very dificult.

 So you have 
 Right: red
 Left: silver
 Ground: not stripped

 You can use any method to label them but I did this since I didn't have any sticky labels or colored heatshrink. Here's what you should have now:






 Next, solder your wires. Keep them as close to the connector as possible as to not add too much thickness to the plug. After you solder use a multimeter to make sure nothing has been shorted. Here's what you should end up with:






 If you find no shorts in your soldering, use a bit of hot glue for strain relief:






 Next we prepare our black casing. Take each piece and cut it in half. There are two small lines on each connector, cutting them through the center of those lines seems to work well. You can use some large cutters or an xacto knife, whatever works. Sand any imprefections/burrs away with fine sandpaper.











 Next use a small amount of hot glue to attach the casing to the connector. Do the Bottom first, then the Top. The bottom has two notches to ensure a proper fit, but the top does not. When gluing the plastic on, be sure that the casings are parallel to the connector.






 After the glue has cooled it should look something like this:






 Now you can take that small plastic clip button and glue it into place on the left side of the connector. Place the whole thing in so it lines up perfectly with the two halves and fill in the void next to it with hot glue. After the glue cools, cut the plastic piece flush with the casing using your cutters or knife.






 Next we take the leftover black plastic piece and cut it into a simple plastic strip to use for the back cover. Before you glue it though, put a small piece of heatshrink over the three wires for protection. Glue the back piece on and you should end up with this:






 Now lightly braid the wires and solder them to your mini-plug. Use a bit of heatshrink to keep the wires braided while you solder.




 Hopefully yours looks similar to this:





 Now assemble your mini-plug and you're all set!





















 Enjoy the music!


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## TSi

amazing tutorial!

 should be stickied, considering that a lot of people asked for this!!


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## synaesthetic

Excellent work! Thanks for the tutorial. =)

 I think I will do something quite similar, only use epoxy to seal off the cable edge, and fashion a mini-jack connector from epoxy as well. The Neutrik plug is a little large.


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## Punnisher

That's a good idea too. Easier and stronger in the long run. What kind of epoxy do you recommend?


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## synaesthetic

I am actually not sure... I will peruse the hardware shop sometime this week and try to find a good type, and some black dye to mix into it to match the LOD color.


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## Phil Ramsay

If using epoxy (good idea by the way), I'd suggest one of the quick setting types. 

 Lots of brands make an epoxy with a 5 minute cure time. 

 Measure the two parts carefully, mix it up well, then move quickly. 

 Really beats having a drippy mess for 30 or more minutes.


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## JSTpt1022

This is great! Thanks.


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## Lil' Knight

Very nice LOD !


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## thejoneser

Thanks for the great info! Can't wait to make one!


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## Fungi

I'd call it low-profile and not slim, use a longer length of wire, and use a smaller plug if there are any, but overall good work. That's some seriously short dock action.


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## fordgtlover

Nice job


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## warrior05

Well done!

 The Neutrik is the smallest aftermarket right angle plug that I know of. You could do away with the body to make it even more low profile but you'll have to use adhesive lined heatshrink to provide some strain relief. It'll be a bit tricky. I've done something similar with a Switchcraft right angle. In this application though, you would have to mod the plug to keep to the low profile look. Another idea is taking an OEM right angle and strip away the rubber encasement. Then you'll have a tiny connector that you'll need to cover in heatshrink. You won't get any smaller than that.

 I've used Loctite's 5 minute epoxy with terrific results. Comes in one tube with two internal compartments and makes squeezing out equal portions of the amount you need a piece of cake. Smells rather awful but that stuff sets up fast and is very hard. Believe me, I know how hard.


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## Punnisher

Thanks everyone.

 I am using that particular right angle plug because there is a crossfeed switch right under it, and there is about 1/32" of space between it and the connector. Works out perfectly in my case.

 The pictures make it look bigger than it actually is.


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## LostOne.TR

very nice guide, and the lod looks great.

 I'd feel alot safer about using a low-profile connector than one that sticks out quite a bit.


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## Mansize_tissue

Brilliant! Thank you for making this tutorial.


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## hoosterw

Very nice LOD indeed! I have sofar not succeeded to build a smaller one!

 Hans.


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## Copperjacket

Very well done indeed.


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## Baines93

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LostOne.TR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_very nice guide, and the lod looks great.

 I'd feel alot safer about using a low-profile connector than one that sticks out quite a bit._

 

Think how i feel! Lol.







 If the amp wasn't on loan i would make one of these, but i think im gonna ditch the Zen and get a D2 and 32gb sdhc card in the near future. I may just trade, and save up for the card, and sell my ER6i's and CX300's. Need a usb sound card too, then im done. Damn sensitive Livewires!!

 Nice build OP. Very smart, and tidy, and a great idea.

 Matt


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## royewest

Where did you get the black plastic iPod connector? (Thanks!)


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## SACD-Man

Nice instructions! =)

 Baines98 - 
 WOW - there lots of stuff happening there.


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## krmathis

Very nice job indeed!


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## royewest

Well, thanks for the tutorial. I just tried this with a full-size iPod connector and it worked for about 5 seconds before first the L & R shorted and then the L & R both snapped off the pins and then the G snapped off. A fun hour. I guess I should order the docks by the dozen.

 Note to self: Find glue gun and use it for strain relief; heatshrink does not relieve the strain from the tiny dock pins.


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## ZephyrSapphire

I'd say this DIY connector has the potential of being more popular due to it's size. I was planning to do the same thing as well! Gotta try doing this during my holidays.


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## Colonel Panic

I think (along with everyone else) that this LOD looks great.
 I can't wait to build my own, but I have a quick question:

 Has anyone in Canada ordered from Qables? I'm curious if I'm going to get raped by customs. Alternatively, is there another source I can order the low-profile dock connector from?


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## Punnisher

I've heard of lots of people getting them from Ridax.

iPod/iPhone Dock Connector ordering

 Don't know about shipping. Qables was a bit expensive for me. I might be looking into a different source too.


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## QQQ

Great idea!
 I'd rather not use such a big bulky 1\8 plug though...


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## hoosterw

I would like to point out that with repsect to the iPod connectors I am not more expensive then the other source. I am even 20% cheaper!

 Ridac thin iPod connector (as used in this thread): 2.39US$

 Qables, same thin connector: 2US$


 Please be aware that he is advertising ex VAT and Qables is inc VAT. so looking at Qables you have to substract 19% to get the same comparison!

 For the regular thicker clickable one it is even more:
 He charges 2.39US$ 

 Whereas Qables ex VAT price is only 1.60US$ !!

 For Europeans the comparison would be (thin connector):

 He 2.39 + 25% VAT = 2.98 US$
 Qables inc VAT 2.39 US$

 Rgds Hans.

 and BTW Qables is a headfi sponsor.


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## major_works

Here's maybe a dumb question, but...

 On the right-angle plug, is tip = right, ring = left, and barrel = ground?


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## heatmizer

tip is left


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## hoosterw

Indeed 

 Tip = Left
 Ring = Right
 Barrel = Ground

 rgds Hans


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## major_works

Thanks, heatmizer and hoosterw. At least I had ground correct.


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## qusp

here is a few LOD's that I have built using this method and punnishers fine thread was the starting point; thanks man ;P

 the first is actually a capped version for my DIYMOD with blackgates which dont fit inside the thin connector used, so I fabricated this one (actually I do that with all of them now for slicker results. this one isn't finished as you can see. I have used the switchcraft RA mini which is superior IMO but too bulky with the stock connector body, so I left it out altogether and I have since added the absolute minimum of epoxy putty to cover the wires. will post final pics when its finished if you are interested. also if you guys are keen I will post the whole process with pics next time I make one??




 this pic shows exactly how low profile it is; sorry for the 56k
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	











this one also uses a fabricated dock connector I just use the innards of any connector with the metal cover so you can bend out the slots for something to grip in the jack like in this thread. this one ^ uses jena copper and cryo silver for wire. still with the neutrik plug which as you can see still gets in the way a bit and makes the final length VERY important


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## Punnisher

Just thought I'd post this in case it might help anyone. The new style ones use the same connector as in my guide but I have cut them in half and left out the boot. Here's the result:


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## major_works

So I have another question about building this LOD now that I have all of the parts on hand. Hopefully someone can help me.

 Punnisher's tutorial says the following:

 "First start by removing all pins from the connector EXCEPT 2,3, and 4."

 My question is how you remove the pins. Is it as simple as gently pulling them out, one by one, with needlenose pliers?

 Thanks in advance...


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## Punnisher

Yep, it's that simple.

 But before you do, what ipod/iphone are you going to use this with?

 If an iphone, you need to jumper pins 1 and 11. (1 is technicaly ground as well, but I find it easier than soldering 2 wires to pin 2.)

 I hear the iTouch gen 2 has a special configuration too. Not sure on that one though.


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## hoosterw

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Punnisher* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yep, it's that simple.

 But before you do, what ipod/iphone are you going to use this with?

 If an iphone, you need to jumper pins 1 and 11. (1 is technicaly ground as well, but I find it easier than soldering 2 wires to pin 2.)

 I hear the iTouch gen 2 has a special configuration too. Not sure on that one though._

 

iTouch 2G is the same as iPhone.

 Rgds Hans.


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## major_works

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Punnisher* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yep, it's that simple.

 But before you do, what ipod/iphone are you going to use this with?

 If an iphone, you need to jumper pins 1 and 11. (1 is technicaly ground as well, but I find it easier than soldering 2 wires to pin 2.)

 I hear the iTouch gen 2 has a special configuration too. Not sure on that one though._

 

I have an iPod Classic (160G).


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## qusp

yep an LOD configured like this will work on the whole apple DAP lineup.

 another way to achieve the same thing is to use a 4 wire braid instead of 3 and connect the second ground wire to 11, that way its grounded at the mini; well more accurately at the ground plane of the DAP. solder bridging 11 to 15 also works. no wires needed.


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## Zombie_X

I made a LOD a while back, but now I'm making a new one and I need help. I have 3 pins on the connector in the arangement:
 _ _
 _

 Like this one > HERE in the first post.

 My question is which pin is what? I thought the bottom single pin was ground, so I used that. The I soldered the top two in the order of Right , Left. Is this correct? If only I would have kept my other LOD. 

 So my right channel works perfectly, but my left is distorted and you can't hear any vocals. There isn't a short anywhere though as I checked it out with a multimeter.

 Please help.


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## hoosterw

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zombie_X* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I made a LOD a while back, but now I'm making a new one and I need help. I have 3 pins on the connector in the arangement:
 _ _
 _

 Like this one > HERE in the first post.

 My question is which pin is what? I thought the bottom single pin was ground, so I used that. The I soldered the top two in the order of Right , Left. Is this correct? If only I would have kept my other LOD. 

 So my right channel works perfectly, but my left is distorted and you can't hear any vocals. There isn't a short anywhere though as I checked it out with a multimeter.

 Please help._

 

Well you have the wrong pins as far as I can tell from the picture.

 You need pin 2 (ground), 3(right) and 4(left)

 It seems you have 3 4 and 5 now. 

 In the picture the counting of the pins starts at the left hand side with one and it counts up to 30.

 I hope this helps.

 Hans


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## Zombie_X

I'm sure it was right, I bought a cheapo LOD then snipped the wires off and I was left with those 3 prongs. The bottom one was ground since it had shrink tubing over it, the other two were the L/R channels.


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## hoosterw

In that case it should work, no?

 Sorry but as far as I can see on the picture the pins are wrong.

 Rgds and good luck


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## Punnisher

You may have a bad solder joint in between your pin and the wire. If the solder cools while you are moving the joint, the result could be a flaky connection. I have seen this happen before.

 I'd recommend making a new one or repairing it using fresh solder and new pins.


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## major_works

I thought I'd share my experience with attempting to build a low-profile LOD following Punnisher's tutorial.

 It was way harder than I thought it would be. One of these days I have just got to get myself a good magnifier/light setup. The teeny-tiny pins on the dock connector are really hard to see with nearly 50-year-old eyes. So I was flying partially blind.

 I ordered three of the dock connectors from Qables. The first one got mangled when I managed to solder-bridge a couple of pins. Couldn't get 'em unbridged.

 The second one was munged when I managed to break off pin 2 while attempting to pull out pin 1.

 The third one was *nearly* killed when I broke off pin 4. I was able to solder the wire to the outside of the wider part at the base of the pin.

 I ended up with an LOD that works... sort of. I've got intermittents in there that are annoying. It's way ugly, too, but I'd gladly overlook that if it worked 100% of the time. No, I won't post pictures. They'd just hurt your eyes.

 I ended up not using the body of the Neutrik right-angle connector at all. It was just too big. So I heat-shrinked up the solder joints as best I could. I'm not even sure where the intermittents are, but my guess is that they're at the dock connector end of the assembly. 

 So it was a partially successful experiment for me. Eventually I'll order up more connectors (maybe 6 this time!). I think that a second attempt would fare better.


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## Punnisher

Cool, glad it sort of worked!

 Don't be afraid to rip a broken pin out and replace it with a good one.

 Also consider leaving some pins long, and cutting others short so that routing wires near the pins is easier. Sometimes I will cut pin 2 almost all the way down and solder to its side. This gives more space to solder pins 3 and 4.


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## major_works

You know, it never occured to me that I could shove an unbroken pin back into a slot as a replacement. For me, it comes down to what I can and cannot see, unfortunately. A good magnifier/light ring would help *a lot*. 

 A neighbor of mine is a jewelry maker and I'm sure she has one. I might ask to borrow hers for my next attempt. 

 On that last-ditch effort that kinda-sorta works, I didn't shorten any pins, thinking that might help with solderability. I also tried spreading them a bit by bending them away from each other. Cutting some and not others is another good idea. 

 At least I didn't glue my fingers together. 

 Thanks for your feedback, Punnisher.


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## Zombie_X

OK I'll try to re-solder it. I ordered another LOD from Ridak, so it's a back up.

 hoosterw, The pic is from another user. But like I said the LOD I used was one I got at radioshack, all I did was snip off the three wires and I was left with 3 pins. So I'll try to re-solder it.


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## knights

though its not as slim but my work is based on this:

 my first DIY line-out cable







 i cant afford this one: http://www.aloaudio.com/store/index....2e9ef5fb6d6583

 i mean its just too expensive for a interconncts


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## pgbass

Punnisher, Is there a special type of hot glue that I should use for the housing and strain relief, or will any kind do?
 I"m asking because I just noticed that in the photo of the strain relief for the soldered pins, the glue looks like it's black.


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## qusp

i'll leave it to punnisher to answer definitively, but i'd say thats regular hot glue (i've never heard of blackglue, there is black liquid electrical tape, but i'm sure punnisher would've mentioned it if he used that), just looks black because its against black, he also may have some small black shrink on there (don't think so), I know I put a bit, especially when using copper or silver in clear teflon (like jena or vampire wire) putting a bit of hot glue around each solder joint (making sure the connection is well sealed off from the air)and then some small shrink over the top of that stops oxidization so your wire doesn't go green ;( you might say 'but you're filling the whole thing with glue anyway' well yes, but sometimes there will be an air pocket or something and it can still oxidize. This way I still have cables that are good as new months later


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## Punnisher

Ahh thanks for that. I have been seeing those, but thought people were just hacking apart apple cables for them.

 To answer the previous question, yes it's normal hot glue.

 However, it's better to use the 5 minute clear epoxy.

 However again, it's even better to use the short docks mentioned above by Ridax and just plug the hole in the back. Good stuff!


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## qusp

yeah but it'll still need cutting anyway if you want to fit any decent wire in IMO anyway.

 all the same I might grab a few to try them out anyway. maybe the hole for the button is big enough, but I doubt it.


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## hoosterw

I have not taken these 'on board' yet because they are quite hard to work with. very little room to fit wires and also little flesh to have the plastic parts glue together tightly.

 Also, they miss the locking mechanism that all other have. They can be removed by just pulling them out.

 But I agree they have a nice low profile.

 Rgds Hans.


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## Punnisher

I don't have one of those dock connectors, but my girlfriends ipod came with one. I think that if you can cut a nice hole in the side and neatly plug the hole in the back, you can make the nicest looking low-profile LOD this way. 

 For the wire I'd be using, there will be plenty of space. Believe me, some docks I have made are even more low-profile than that and have even less space.

 As for the locking mechanism, the cable I tried locks very well with the spring loaded prongs it comes with. It would actually lock better than the method currently used by bending the pressure points on the metal plug.


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## swistak

where can you get one of those slim connectors? I've checked qables, but they do not seem to have them, ebay?


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## Lil' Knight

Qables | High Quality Custom Made Qables


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## J.D.N

I don't think that is the one being discussed. It is thinner, but longer than the one pictured above.


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## hoosterw

Indeed it is not.

 The one being discussed has a lower profile. It is one we do not yet have in stock. I am not using it for my own cables, hence I do not have stock.

 If interest is big enough (at least a hundred or more) I would be prepared to do a one time group buy?

 Rgds

 Hans


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## hoosterw

Indeed it is not.

 The one being discussed has a lower profile. It is one we do not yet have in stock. I am not using it for my own cables, hence I do not have stock.

 If interest is big enough (at least a hundred or more) I would be prepared to do a one time group buy?

 Rgds

 Hans


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## Captain ?degard

Ridax has them
iPod/iPhone Dock Connector ordering
 Have ordered several from them, and (no offence) they are both cheaper and faster than qables, so theres little point in a group buy. Also, the connectors arent that hard to work with


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## qusp

maybe for you they were but for me it takes about 3 weeks to get anything from them and they are more expensive. because the qables cart adjusts if yoiu arent in the EU while ridax doesnt change. so they are more expensive and slower for me LOL
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 qables takes about 1 week to get here and usually shipped the same day I order. plus I like hans hes a good man to deal with. not that I have anything against the guys at ridax; they just havent been as responsive as hans and I havent got to know any of them.


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## qusp

I have to say I'm not fussed I only use the guts anyway. so it doesnt matter to me how big the casing is LOL


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## Captain ?degard

Yeah qables isnt as expensive as i thought, doing the calculations with the actual currency rates rather than the ones im used to for quick calculations. This fall, qables would have been a lot more expensive since the USD was so low, I'm still used to thinking that way. 

 Now however qables is cheaper, especially if you order a lot. The customer service part should matter more, ridax has been very quick with me but i dont see them on the forum.

 Either way, i really recommend these connectors - they are sooo much smaller than the normal ones and that helps a lot IMO.

 edit:


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## MorganWu

The wires come out from the side of the low profile dock. U just got to file a square hole at the side and thats it. The wires are mundorf twisted with silver plated copper wires and then braided. 6 strands of wires in total. Plug used was a modded Switchcraft right angle.


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## Kibble Fat

Awesome thread. This is extremely helpful because I've always thought the LOD interface felt really fragile.


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## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Punnisher* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't have one of those dock connectors, but my girlfriends ipod came with one. I think that if you can cut a nice hole in the side and neatly plug the hole in the back, you can make the nicest looking low-profile LOD this way. 

 For the wire I'd be using, there will be plenty of space. Believe me, some docks I have made are even more low-profile than that and have even less space.

 As for the locking mechanism, the cable I tried locks very well with the spring loaded prongs it comes with. It would actually lock better than the method currently used by bending the pressure points on the metal plug._

 

yeah its not the profile thats the problem, its the thickness of the braid with the wire I use (22AWG jena and 20AWG cryo silver) I have the wires quite literally soldered up against the edge of the connector, cant get any more low profile than that., but its the thickness, the damn thickness. plus I actually like doing it with putty as I end up with a totally seamless part with no gaps anywhere. its more work, but I find the result pleasing. especially now I have found that the brand of epoxy putty I have found to be the best (milliput) comes in black


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## Bonthouse

It isn't the purtiest LOD around, but it sure sounds amazing!
 Made with DNM Reson 0,5mm solid core copper! Costs about $15 a foot..


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## Mayzei

Hi there Punnisher what cable are you using here, could you give me a link please. 

 xx


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## Mayzei

Okay then, could somebody show me a store that will sell wire like this, silver-plated or not, im not bothered, but it must be located in the UK (or somewhere with low shipping costs to the UK e.g eBay).

 Thanks in advanced.

 xx


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## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mayzei* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay then, could somebody show me a store that will sell wire like this, silver-plated or not, im not bothered, but it must be located in the UK (or somewhere with low shipping costs to the UK e.g eBay).

 Thanks in advanced.

 xx_

 

hificollective.com is in the UK, they use expensive shipping for most other countries and some of their stuff isnt that cheap, but that seems to be the way of it in the UK for this stuff. although with the strange exchange rates between UK and USA probabvly doesnt work out any more expensive and cheaper/quicker shipping for you. they have all manner of great stuff; they dont really have much really cheap stuff, but you will get great copper, SPC or pure silver wire there along with pretty much everything else you need including tools. they have great resistors and caps there too. check it out man.


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## Kayito-san

Wow, that tut's really straightforward, and fairly noob-friendly. I approve.

 Furthermore;
 That's a pretty nice camera you've got there. Able to capture all the tiny details at such a close range. I approve.


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## kRze

Cool thread, Thanks!


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## a19als

good job!


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## ameatball

Hey guys, I am a n00b to headfi and pretty new to DIY in general.

 I've had the SE530s for 2 years now, and just realized how much better they sound with a headphone amp. I have good circuit experience, so I built a good mini3 amp. Now I am looking to make this great LOD to connect.
 However, one of the things I feel dumb asking, but need to ask, is what do you guys think is the best wire for this LOD (or LODs in general for that matter) and where can I purchase this wire??

 Any help would be appreciated, thanks so much.


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## zaphod373

I've made a few of these and find it a lot easier to remove all the pins, solder the three needed, then push them carefully back in, making note of their orientation ,eg, upside down. I got tired of the heat un-terminating the adjacent pins, cheers


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## Bonthouse

Here's my newest creation.







 4x Mundorf 0,5mm SG wire in a quad round braid, with a snipped down Neutrik.

 The pic was a little hard to take with the artificial light, but hey, it's only to give the basic idea
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I'm gonna sand it down tomorrow with some 200, then 400 and then some finish it with varnish for a little glitter and glamour.


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## royewest

Very nice, Bonthouse. What material is that? Epoxy of some kind?


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## Punnisher

Yes, I'd like to know too. It would work well to make a custom molded right angle neutrik. The neutriks are pretty small without the shell.

 Oh and I got some of the very small dock connectors from Ridax, and they look great. I look forward to making a low profile cable with those.


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## Bonthouse

It's this stuff, only in black






 Mold it, put it in the oven for about 30 minutes @ 130 degrees celsius and viola!


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## qusp

heres a couple I made with epoxy putty. it really opens up the possibilities of what you can do. have done IMOD versions and even IMOD with usb versions. I also use it for making modified RCA connectors and Y splits. next up is a cable for my incoming ES3X, so will be able to make connectors from scratch with just a couple of pins

 here is one before I put the casing on; this is made with 24AWG cryoparts UP-OCC cryo copper and cardas silver. sports the iphone resistors, a charging mini usb port and a sawn off switchcraft mini. this is for a T4 and iphone 3G. I think i've pretty much hit the wall with what I can fit in though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 ﻿
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




﻿
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I use miliput black epoxy putty. takes a few hours to cure properly (room temperature) and sets hard as a rock. I then sand it back and either give it a couple coats of semigloss clear or matt resin. or if i'm going for an ultradark finish I give it 1-2 coats of black enamel first.

 this shows how it fits; this was one with a neutrik mini 
 ﻿﻿﻿﻿
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and finished like this













 the fimo is an interesting idea, I assume you bake it separately and install on the cable afterward?? if not any cryo would be ruined and even regular single crystal metals could also be altered. do you epoxy it on afterward bonthouse??


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## Captain ?degard

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bonthouse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's this stuff, only in black



 Mold it, put it in the oven for about 30 minutes @ 130 degrees celsius and viola!_

 

doesnt it melt the solder?


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## JamesL

solder starts to melt at 200C


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## Captain ?degard

OIC. This should be perfect then! Found several ebay sellers willling to ship here, cost me £4,5 for two packs of black stuff


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## JamesL

I'd be more worried about the plastic on the ipod connector, and flux fumes that may possibly leak into your oven.

 But then again, it looks as though bonthouse has done it successfully without any trouble.. so I think the risk is pretty low.


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## Juaquin

Why does 130C ruin Cryo and 25C not? Is there a threshold temperature for the "effects", after which the cryo-ness stops working?


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## qusp

well i've been told that even soldering can be detrimental to cryo, so its supposed to be better to treat the whole cable after its made. not certain that it really is a problem; just maybe something to be aware of. I would thik the p[lastic parts of the dock could be weakened though. I guess we'll see in a few months 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 looks like I have to come up with something new


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## Bonthouse

It's soldered, then done with the soft modeling clay to get between the joints and whatnot, than done again with the classic modeling clay and viola.

 It's 30 minutes in a 130 degrees celsius oven, so that shouldn't have an impact on the wire I guess. Between the periods in the oven I let it cool for about 2 hours, or more if I'm lazy.

 The plastic parts are still strong and firm when touched when they are less than one minute out of the oven.

 ps. please do note, I use a hot air oven, the best there is


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## DoYouRight

truly amazing! could it be made to have a female 1/4 on the other end for my Grados?


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## DoYouRight

QUSP? Could you possibly show how to make a USB LOD? That would be the most amazing thing ever. I was thinking about it today, and see you can do it! Wow? Thanks for any help.


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## mattcalf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoYouRight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_QUSP? Could you possibly show how to make a USB LOD? That would be the most amazing thing ever. I was thinking about it today, and see you can do it! Wow? Thanks for any help._

 

Try this.


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## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoYouRight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_truly amazing! could it be made to have a female 1/4 on the other end for my Grados?_

 

errrmmmm.....

 why would you want to do that?? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 it may make noise when you plug headphones into a lineout signal, but its gonna sound crap as a line-out just isnt powered to drive headphones. it will be loud, but will sound crud. as for the USB tutorial; waaaayy too busy at the moment to do anything like that and I dont have any orders coming up for that specific LOD. sorry but i'm not really up for making one just to show you how to do it. you could use this tutorial for some of it, but there is a LOT different about it once USB is added. routing becomes an issue. no way will it fit in the LOD connector punnisher links, the only way is to use epoxy or some other form of putty/acrylic. use as thin wires as you can manage for the usb and solid core is best for the power wires. sorry I cant help more; under the pump at the moment with work.


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## DoYouRight

any help is appreciated! Thanks

 Ill see if I can start to undertake it!


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## DoYouRight

excellent! will attempt one tomorrow


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## Kpalsm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DoYouRight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_excellent! will attempt one tomorrow_

 

Aaaaaand a month later, he asked, "How did it go?" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I really want to figure out a low profile LOD like this, but I also want it to have USB passthrough. Sort of like a low profile Sendstation.


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## jawor121

I am wondering;do i need to put any resistors to make a lod for Itouch 2gen.I think i have read it somewhere but can't remember now.In the first post;there's a link to ipod connector pin out;it's also for Iphone 3g so i am assuming it's gonna be identical for touch?Am i right;if not can someone explain then?
 Matt


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## Bonthouse

Nope, for Touch 2G just connect pin 11 to pin 15 and you're done.


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## jawor121

OK,i see so basically it would be 2,3,4 and 11 and 15 left over?Then 2 is a ground,3 and 4 channels and then 11 and 15 connected together.I thought it's gonna be complicated than that.


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## Bonthouse

Use 2 for *left*, 3 for *right*, bridge 11 and 15 and simultaniously use them as ground. Easier that way
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: Typo, I accidentaly said that 3 was for ground where it actually is for the right signal


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## jawor121

Ok,thanks for explaining.It's even easier now.I gotta order all components now and then have some fun soldering it.
 Matt


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## Captain ?degard

Just want to remind people about my video on this: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/vid...od-lod-405383/


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## Kpalsm

Oh yeeeeeeah, I remember that video. Thanks Cap'n.


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## parkchansu

I had a bit of a question, or maybe perhaps it's already been answered. I was wondering why and in what applications you would use either/both capacitors and resistors in the constructions of a DIYLOD. I saw in other DIYLOD posts for the Zen and the Fuze that a capacitor/resistor is required. I vaguely remember that capacitors were necessary as a DC-filter that prevents your headphones from being damaged if your amp doesn't have a DC-filter built in. This doesn't have one. Is this okay?


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## JiPod

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Punnisher* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*24AWG wire. Different sizes may be used but Don't go thicker than 22AWG.*_

 

Thanks so much for such an informative post. Just out of curiousity. On your list of required parts, why is it you say "Don't go thicker than 22AWG."?

 Thanks again.


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## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bonthouse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Use 2 for *left*, 3 for *right*, bridge 11 and 15 and simultaniously use them as ground. Easier that way
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: Typo, I accidentaly said that 3 was for ground where it actually is for the right signal
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Punnisher said 2 is ground, 3 is right and 4 is left, and said to bridge 1 or 2 to 11, or use a second ground wire in the cable to 11. He and Hans at Qables both said that will work with iPhone or 2G Touch.

 It sounds very different from what you posted above. Can you clarify please? Thanks!


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## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *parkchansu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had a bit of a question, or maybe perhaps it's already been answered. I was wondering why and in what applications you would use either/both capacitors and resistors in the constructions of a DIYLOD. I saw in other DIYLOD posts for the Zen and the Fuze that a capacitor/resistor is required. I vaguely remember that capacitors were necessary as a DC-filter that prevents your headphones from being damaged if your amp doesn't have a DC-filter built in. This doesn't have one. Is this okay?_

 

You use the resistors if you use your LOD on an iPhone or iPod Touch. Because the iPhone has a built-in speaker, it won't default send an audio signal to the dock. You have to load the pins to 'tell' the iPhone that something else is taking care of the sound so send me the signal and mute the internal speaker.


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## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You use the resistors if you use your LOD on an iPhone or iPod Touch. Because the iPhone has a built-in speaker, it won't default send an audio signal to the dock. You have to load the pins to 'tell' the iPhone that something else is taking care of the sound so send me the signal and mute the internal speaker._

 

I must have missed what pins the resistors go when I read through this thread, and there have been many posts about only needing to short pins 1-to-11 to make them work with the iPhone or 2G Touch. Can you point to the post where it shows where to put the resistors, and the values?


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## earthpeople

I connect pins 11, 15, and 16 together (bend the pins a little), then connect that bundle to pin 21 with a 68k ohm resistor. Works flawlessly.


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## grumpyoldman

Cheers Punnisher, what a lovely description.....I am in the middle of making my first LOD, i am glad I got the soldering done, man these pins are tiny ...I ruined one dock with too much solder, I bought 3 ipod connectors, just in case....will tell you in a day or two if and how it works! Got most my parts/cables from Qables, and this LOD is also to replace a Qables LOD....it is too big, and sometimes my ipod freezes, never had this before. I am not 100% if it comes from the LOD, but I guess with it hanging out the way it does it moves slightly, never had this type of freezing before I had the LOD....so I hope your low profile LOD will sort me out for good!


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## kugino

so who around here is making these low profile LODs to sell? the Qables/ALO, etc. ones are much more than i'd like to pay and my soldering stuff is packed away in the garage for now...need one for my 3gs and my future pico slim...any suggestions for builders?


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## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kugino* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so who around here is making these low profile LODs to sell? the Qables/ALO, etc. ones are much more than i'd like to pay and my soldering stuff is packed away in the garage for now...need one for my 3gs and my future pico slim...any suggestions for builders?_

 

In addition to the two above. RSA and TheCablePro have them for $100 and $119 respectively, and punnisher has made many that were only $40. I have two of punnisher's and they have different wire, and one sounds more transparent than the other. My CablePro low profile LOD are very good and transparent sounding so far. stevenkelby and barqy or highflyin9 might make them as a spacial order, but I haven't seen any low profile they have made. I think SARN makes them for $50-100 but is banned for poor customer service and a few bad amps.


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## kugino

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In addition to the two above. RSA and TheCablePro have them for $100 and $119 respectively, and punnisher has made many that were only $40. I have two of punnisher's and they have different wire, and one sounds more transparent than the other. My CablePro low profile LOD are very good and transparent sounding so far. stevenkelby and barqy or highflyin9 might make them as a spacial order, but I haven't seen any low profile they have made. I think SARN makes them for $50-100 but is banned for poor customer service and a few bad amps._

 

thanks larry!


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## Junliang

Got a problem here..
 how did you guys manage to attach the lod to the dock of the ipod ?
 The mental on the 2 sides of the dock wasn't even there to hook onto the dock of the ipod..
 it keeps sliding out, not hooked to the ipod dock at all.


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## ambee

i've also made one, but took the pins out to connect them:



 

 




 but that has been to big and after recognising, that the damn expensive switchcraft connectors wouldn't fit over the switch of my amp, is used the neutrik one:



 




 that usb-out qusp made looks really nice, i think i'm going to make one myself

 and how solid is the neutrik connector when cut in half?


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## ambee

i also made a slim iPod LOD:











 i first wanted to use that damn expensive switchcraft-plug, before i recognised that it wouldn't fit over the switch... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 how stable are the neutrik plugs when cut into half? i found out, that the connection between amp and the right angled plug isn't as steady as with normal neutrik plugs

 and maybe i a build one with an usb-connector like this one, that's really nice


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## Kpalsm

I would love a low profile LOD with a USB port like the one qusp made in the post you linked. Would go nice with my Pico Slim


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## Pageygeeza

Would squirting Silicone sealant into the lod once its finished be a good idea for strain relief?


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## earthpeople

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pageygeeza* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would squirting Silicone sealant into the lod once its finished be a good idea for strain relief?_

 

I think that would work, but hot glue is more commonly used. I think hot glue would be easier to work with.


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## Pageygeeza

Generally runnier?

 At this moment in time, I'm not really sure I want to make my first lod. After looking at the iPod connector for the first time today, it looks bloody daunting!


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## xoqiu

Thank you for making this tutorial.


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## dhaninugraha

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I must have missed what pins the resistors go when I read through this thread, and there have been many posts about only needing to short pins 1-to-11 to make them work with the iPhone or 2G Touch. Can you point to the post where it shows where to put the resistors, and the values?_

 

11 to 30, and 21 to 30 using a 1K resistor


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## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dhaninugraha* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_11 to 30, and 21 to 30 using a 1K resistor 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Thanks!


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## Pageygeeza

Punnisher: I love the low profile LOD, but I'm too chicken to have a go myself. Could you possibly make me one if I gave you the parts? I'm in the UK if that makes any difference.


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## MrJingles

Hey Punnisher. I also would love to have one but have no desire to attempt DIY. Would you kindly consider making me one and if so, how much? I live in Maine, USA. Thanks.


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## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MrJingles* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Punnisher....Thanks._

 

Don't do that here and get him in trouble. Take it to PM.


----------



## MrJingles

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't do that here and get him in trouble. Take it to PM._

 

Sorry, didn't know. Thanks.


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## phishhead92

25' 24 AWG Shielded Silver Kapton Teflon Wire Coax - eBay (item 230442384354 end time Mar-27-10 10:58:50 PDT)

 are these good cables to use?


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## Punnisher

Sounds nice but it is coaxial cable, meaning two conductors. It's not really necessary for the LOD.

 For simplicity I would stick to single conductor wire.

 Keep in mind the gauge doesn't matter much. The smaller the wire, the easier it will be to fit in the LOD and ultimately solder. Use as small of wire as you wish, but don't go so small as to abandon durability.


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## phishhead92

okay thanks man, 

50' 24 AWG Silver Kapton Teflon Wire Violet - eBay (item 230422182292 end time Mar-10-10 10:21:12 PST)

 is that a better choice? (im talking about the whole silver kapton teflon deal) sorry im pretty new to this whole deal, so i want to make sure and get good components


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## lasraik

Thanks for writing up the tutorial, it's very nice.

 Kind of a newbie question but what is the benefit of using an LOD as opposed to a mini to mini interconnect or is there no difference in sound?

 Thanks


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## rehabitat

The "dock" in LOD is just the local vernacular for "plug" or "connector". There is no difference. imho "dock" is a little misleading, but I'm sure others would disagree...


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## phishhead92

well im noticing in these "plugs, connecters dock" w/e you call them they are insanely expensive (150$ + retail) when you can make a quality one for around 40$ or less like ALO's is 195. even seen some for 250. its just a nice easy fix it seems like


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## mugdecoffee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *phishhead92* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_okay thanks man, 

50' 24 AWG Silver Kapton Teflon Wire Violet - eBay (item 230422182292 end time Mar-10-10 10:21:12 PST)

 is that a better choice? (im talking about the whole silver kapton teflon deal) sorry im pretty new to this whole deal, so i want to make sure and get good components_

 

That seller, navships, is a popular source for wire around here. People say that his kapton wire tends to be stiffer than the non kapton wire if that matters to you. Also you definitely don't want to use coax for a LOD. It'll be hard to solder the shield of the cable to the ground pins.


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## phishhead92

o alright, thanks for the help man, and i cant seem to find 32gauge wire anwhere, i need it for a diymod. any ideas?


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## phishhead92

I made my own dock (with blackgate NX Hi-Q 47uF 6.3V caps) it looks kinda ghetto right now but im going to home depot to get some epoxy putty tomorrow






 Old version, i decided to take off the bling and put in some stability, (heatshrink tubing)
















 i put heatshrink over the mini plug because some paint scratched off, also this way its grippy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 Ill post more when i finish with the epoxy putty,


----------



## Sibling Chris

As anyone tried this with a Fiio L1 LOD? Not sur ehow to get the thing apart without breaking it...


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## jantze

Thanks for the great tutorial.
   
  Here's mine:


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## hoosterw

Quote: 





jantze said:


> Thanks for the great tutorial.
> 
> Here's mine:


 

 This is surely a beautiful piece of handcraft. If you ever need a job.......
   
  Well done!
   
  Rgds Hans


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## lasraik

Was going to start making my LOD and ordering parts, but I had a question.  If I'm using an ipod touch 3g, do I need to use a resistor?


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## hoosterw

Well you could yes but you can also do without. If you do not use a resistor you get an accessories  message. But you can discard it and use it anyway.
   
  rgds Hans


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## lasraik

But it won't harm anything without using a resistor?  Also looking for what size of nylon sleeve to get for it
   
  Funny you responded, I'm ordering my stuff from Qables lol


----------



## hoosterw

Quote: 





lasraik said:


> But it won't harm anything without using a resistor?  Also looking for what size of nylon sleeve to get for it
> 
> Funny you responded, I'm ordering my stuff from Qables lol


 

 No it will not harm anything.
   
  rgds


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## lasraik

Does the pin configuration change with a touch 3g because it has internal speakers?


----------



## hoosterw

Quote: 





lasraik said:


> Does the pin configuration change with a touch 3g because it has internal speakers?


 

 Yes it does. please check http://pinouts.ru/PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml
   
  rgds


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## shokka9

Just came to this thread, basically just bought a connector from qables as i think i want to make an LOD for my iphone 4 

 I assume that i wont have to do anything crazy for it all to work?? 

 I'm in the middle of a headphone cable build for my shure 840s; and want to make a matching LOD.

 Thanks.


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## hasanyuceer

I was using modded L1 before. (Cable from right side with neutrik right angled)
   
  Now I am using this; ( Not too pretty but very slim LOD, Did it with Epoxy)


----------

