# Reviews: Some people collect amps. I collect soldering stations.



## SiBurning

Since I burnt a pad back in December, I went way off the deep end and bought a few more soldering toys.






Larger image

 It's become a bit messy since then





Hakko 936 series
Hakko 936 ESD Soldering Station
Hakko 950 SMD Hot Tweezers

FM/FP Stations
Hakko FP-102 Soldering Station (discontinued)
Hakko FM-203 Dual Port Soldering System
Hakko FM-204 Digital Self-Contained Desoldering Station

FM/FP Handpieces & Accessories
Hakko FM-2027 Soldering Iron Handle
Hakko FM-2024 Desoldering Handpiece
Hakko FM-2022 SMD Parallel Remover <<on order>>
Hakko FM-2023 Mini Hot Tweezers

 Hakko cordless
Hakko FX-901 Cordless Soldering Iron

 Hakko accessories
Hakko FT-700 Tip Polisher
Hakko FG-100 Tip Thermometer

 Metcal
Metcal MX-500 Soldering System
Thoughts about recent changes in Metcal's product line

 Pace
PRC 1000 (picture)

 Hot Air
Xytronic 626 Hot Air Station
Zephyrtronics XT-2 air pencil and my first attempt at SMD soldering

 Radio Shack
Radio Shack 64-2070C 25W soldering iron
Radio Shack (unknown model) light duty soldering iron with grounded plug
Radio Shack 64-2060 45W desoldering iron

 Miscellaneous
Soldering System Enterprise SY-003 Twin Arm Soldering Machine (automated solder feed)
brief discussion on air filters
Lead formers and cutters
solder
How soldering irons work

 -----------------------------------------------------------
 [size=small]Preliminary opinions[/size]

 This is how I felt before this experiment started.
  Quote:


 The FP-102 is the best tool of the bunch. It's fastest to heat a joint and easily handles the largest jobs I can throw at it. Heat application is the most precise of these stations: by that I mean I can rely on heat being delivered consistently in a repeatable way, so I know in advance exactly how and where to apply the iron and have it do what I want. Unfortunately, Hakko discontinued the 102.

 The Metcal is also precise, but lacks the heat capacity of the Hakko stations. Since I only have a few tips, I need more experience before positing further. 
 

We'll see how much my opinion changes as this experiment progresses. On the second day, I'm already starting to question.

 -----------------------------------------------------------
 [size=large]Tests[/size]
Test #1 -- Bed of Nails Just do it! A simple test just to have something to solder.
Taking the temperature of thermometers There's no sense doing measurements without accurate tools.
Tweezers face off
Idle temperature accuracy.
Time to come up to heat.
Solder & desolder a screw wrapped with 18ga wire.
Solder & desolder smd resistor.
Solder & desolder through hole resistor.
Solder & desolder DIP, 8 and 14 pin.
Solder & desolder SOIC.
Build several sets of interconnects.

 What else would you like to see?

 -----------------------------------------------------------
 [size=medium]Hakko FX-901 Cordless Soldering Iron[/size]
 Portable AA battery powered soldering iron.

 List Price: $30
 Includes handle and conical tip.

 Handles and Tips:
 Quick-change composite tip (PN: T11-B style)
 2 tips are available, conical and chisel.
 The tips incorporate its own ceramic heating element.
 Tips are priced at $16.

 Temperature Control:
 Soldering temperature of 600F
 Runs on 4 AA batteries
 Battery life: Alkaline batteries ~70 minutes, Ni-MH batteries ~120 minutes

 Additional Features:
 Protective safety cap turns unit off and covers tip

 First Thoughts:
 Only tried this on one or two joints. It's a lot better than a plug-in ratshack iron.

 -----------------------------------------------------------
 [size=medium]Hakko FT-700 Tip Polisher[/size]
 Motorized tip polishing brushes and chemical paste to remove oxidation from soldering tips.

 List Price: $150
 Includes polisher and one tin of chemical paste.

 First Thoughts:
 Easily cleans oxidation, dirt, and rosin off the tip.
 Shines and polishes dull tips.
 Will not restore a used-up tip.

 -----------------------------------------------------------
 [size=medium]Metcal MX-500 Soldering System[/size]

 List Price: Varies with accessories, from $610

 Handles and Tips:
 Quick-change tips.
 Very large selection of tips.
 A variety of handles and options are available.

 Temperature Control:
 Consumes 40W.
 Unique heating system.
 Temperature is controlled by selecting the appropriate tip: 500F, 600F, 700F, 800F.

 Additional Features:
 A large variety of options and accessories are available.

 First Thoughts:
 Excellent precision in applying heat.
 Doesn't handle large joints as easily as its more powerful (higher wattage) rivals.
 Tips heat in under 10 seconds.
 Excellent selection of tips.
 You need a separate tip for each temperature.
 Acceptable temperatures range: limited to 500F, 600F, 700F, and 800F; not all tips are available in all temperatures.
 Good choice as the basis of a complete system, since one station supports all available accessories.
 Heating capability may be limited by its 40W maximum output.
 No visible indicators except for a two color LED.
 Has two ports, but only one can be operated at a time: this is not a huge problem because tips heat up so quickly.

 -----------------------------------------------------------
 [size=medium]Xytronic 626 Hot Air Station[/size]
 Discontinued. Replaced by 850D.

 List Price ($650 -- discontinued)

 First Thoughts:
 Haven't really figured out how to use it yet.
 I can flow some things but not others.
 I hope to figure out how to use this properly. So far I find it useful for opening grado cans to recable them.


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## ClieOS

You sir, is one of a kind!


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## gadgetman

Seems like an awesome collection 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But someone's gotta say it... "This thread is worthless without pictures?"


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## v3nom

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gadgetman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seems like an awesome collection 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But someone's gotta say it... "This thread is worthless without pictures?"_

 

I second that, I was speedily scrolling through in hopes of a picture of an array of solder stats.


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## Uncle Erik

So, what do you _do_ with all of your nice toys? Pretty good collection, there. I'm thinking about picking up one of Hakko's desoldering guns to go along with my 703. It has the pencil shaped desoldering tool, but the gun might be more useful for a few of the bigger projects I have cooking.


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## Ricey20

Hmm, interesting thread. I was just doing some research the other day since I need a new solder station (newbie, but broke 2 radioshack solder irons already because they are a pos). So is the Hakko 936 a good station for someone starting out in DIY or is there something you can recommend for around $150 or less?


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## insyte

Pics please 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Very nice review 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 One of a kind


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## mbd2884

Hey have you tried one of the Hakko clones and see if performance wise they are the same also? Not just appearance. 

 Thanks!


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## SiBurning

Thanks for the feedback. Picture added. Will get more up later.

 I admit posting this without more data is kind of a troll thing to do, but without you guys yelling at me, I'd never get it done. I plan on updating this with real data, but it'll take time. Still trolling for ideas on how to actually compare them without just going by feel.

 About Hakko clones... My biggest worry about the usefullness of this thread wasn't about not having pictures or detailed info, but that most people here are interested in the less expensive gear, which isn't included. Might have to borrow or pick up a few used inexpensive things after my wallet recovers

 The Hakko 936 is pretty good. The main shortcomings with it are (1) the heating system isn't as good as the more expensive Hakko & Metcals, and (2) there are no specialty tips. For $150 you could get a used FP-102 and some tips. They go for around $100 with station, handle, and stand. It can operate their 2024 desoldering handle, but you need to supply your own air and filters. There's usually one on ebay every week. Maybe it's the same one. The downside is it's discontinued, so parts might not be available forever. (I promise not to compete and bid for a spare for a couple of months.) You can't operate the tweezers at all with it. If you get one, make sure it comes with a key. Meanwhile, I'll find out if all the keys match, and if they do, I'll post a template.

 What do I do with them? What a silly question. I collect toys.


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## HiFi1972

Very nice! 

 (looking at my Weller WLC-100 as it slowly ducks under the table...)


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## SiBurning

[size=large]Test #1 -- Bed of Nails[/size]




Larger image
 Left to right: Metcal Mx-500, Hakko 936, Hakko FP-102

 The test is to apply solder to the iron and let it flow over the wire. The joint is considered heated when solder placed 1/6 the way around the nail melts and flows through the wire. Each iron was only tested once. Consider this a trial run. At this point, I'm more interested in getting the format right.

 The wire is 18 ga copper wire composed of 7 strands.
 The nail is 0.12" of unknown composition.

 [size=medium]Results[/size]
 Metcal MX-500 with STTC 036 (2.5 mm chisel 600F)
 Expected temperature: 600F
 Measured temperature: 700F
 Time: 15 seconds

 Hakko 936 with 900M-T-2.4D (2.4 mm chisel)
 Expected temperature: dialed to 700
 Measured temperature: 700F
 Time: 25 seconds

 Hakko FP-102 with T15-D24 (2.4 mm chisel)
 Expected temperature: 700F
 Measured temperature: 730F
 Time: 16 seconds

 [size=medium]Discussion[/size]
 Skipping over the temperature differences, the Hakko 102 and Metcal were very close. Both joints are clean and well flowed. The Hakko 936 flowed well enough, but not quite as cleanly and the solder didn't flow all the way through, which hopefully shows in the images. Although not visible in the pictures, the Metcal flowed a little more consistently through the strands. With the Hakko 102, a tiny blob of solder appeared where the nail touched the wire and I had to hold the iron there an extra second for the solder to flow cleanly through the strands. I don't know what to attribute that to. For the record, solder doesn't stick to the nail.

 Is it necessary to use the same temperature with each station when running these tests? The way I understand the Metcal tips, a 0xx should be 600F, not 700F.

 Note: When I originally ran this test, I used an old Hakko 191 thermometer, which was clearly out of calibration. The temperatures have been updated with measurements from a new Hakko FG-100, which appears to be more accurate. See Taking the temperature of thermometers for more.


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## keyid

impressive collection


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## linuxworks

I tried running an RMAA test on my soldering iron but the xlr connector kept melting!

 I bet I need a heatsink.


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## tintin47

This makes me feel like I need to buy a new iron. I am on the extreme low fi end of soldering irons.


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## SiBurning

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *linuxworks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tried running an RMAA test on my soldering iron but the xlr connector kept melting!

 I bet I need a heatsink.







_

 

Yes, but how does the iron sound?


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## olblueyez

OK, you have me looking at irons because I got the bug. I say that someone had the helping hands PCB holder, but this specific unit had a third hand with a pad to hold a loose component into place until the board has been flipped and the component soldered into place. Anyone know of such a device? Its kinda like the model with the magnifying glass but it has an extra hand instead.


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## ph33lix

Wow, sticky worthy thread.


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## ph33lix

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *olblueyez* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, you have me looking at irons because I got the bug. I say that someone had the helping hands PCB holder, but this specific unit had a third hand with a pad to hold a loose component into place until the board has been flipped and the component soldered into place. Anyone know of such a device? Its kinda like the model with the magnifying glass but it has an extra hand instead._

 

I'd just put a bit of shoe goo under the component, like a capacitor... seems like what a lot of manufacturers do.
 But I just put enough to hold it in place and stay out of sight.


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## Voodoochile

Humbling collection you have there! I love the FP-102!


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## linuxworks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SiBurning* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, but how does the iron sound?_

 

the iron only seems to have 1 bit of resolution. I can make it click on and off but when I try to PCM modulate it, well, the result wasn't pretty 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 otoh, when I try to play country or disco thru my iron, it actually sounds BETTER. go figure.


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## Feather225

I need one of those soldering tools too ^ ^


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## SiBurning

Larger image

 Uh oh! That's not good. Don't know who to trust. Next step is to look into more trustworthy thermometers, but I'm not sure whether or not it's worth doing.

 The FG-100 reads room temperature as 75F, which is a bit warmer than it really is in that room, but is within tolerance. The 191 clearly needs calibration. Fortunately, the 191 can be calibrated. The FG-100 must be shipped back to hakko for calibration. 

 After some additional trial and error with the new FG-100, I'm going to proceed (for now) on the assumption that it works and is properly calibrated.

 The Hakko 202 and 203 stations both measure dead on from 650F to 800F with the 2.4 mm chisel tip.
 The Hakko 202 measures dead on from 650F to 800F with the tweezers.
 I didn't yet measure the desoldering tool.

 The 936 measures dead on with the dial set at 700F.

 The FP-102 runs too hot by 30F with the 2.4 mm chisel tip, but it has a "no calibration" bug... err... feature. The temperature is supposed to be controlled by the heating element within the tip. I measured the resistance of the tip as per Hakko's instrictions, and it's 8.1 ohms, which is as expected. The same tip and handle were dead on with the other stations, so it's not the tip. Hmm...

 The Metcal station also has that no calibration feature. Either my tip is mislabelled, or I misunderstand the meaning of the Metcal temperature series. The documentation seems to say that a Metcal 0xx series tip should be 600F. Mine measures near dead on 700F. Another Metcal tip measured 650F.

 It seems the only stations out of spec are those with a "no calibration" feature. I don't want to draw conclusions from this--I probably do misunderstand the Metcal specs--but it does give one pause.

 [size=medium]Hakko FG-100 Tip Thermometer[/size]
 Battery operated thermometer for measuring soldering iron tip temperatures.

 List Price: $221
 Includes thermometer gizmo and a pack of sensors.

 Accessories:
 A1310 Thermocouple Probe (for measuring soldering pot temperature).
 C1220 Temperature Probe (extends the reach of the thermometer).

 First Thoughts:
 It seems to work okay. Temperatures read quite accurately, although so far I'm only judging by actually reading the soldering irons and seeing if the thermometer reads the expected temperature.


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## linuxworks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SiBurning* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Measured the Metcal which should be 600F.
 191 reading: 347C (650F) Yesterday it measured 700F.
 FG-100 reading: 367C (692F)

 Not good. Don't know who to trust. _

 

"a man with 1 watch knows exactly what time it is.

 a man with 2 watches is never sure."


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## SiBurning

Hot tweezers (aka talons) are highly specialized desoldering tools designed to remove smd parts with parallel leads. They're not meant for quad chips with leads on four sides, or any other type of part. Small tips remove two terminal resistors. Wider tips can remove chips with parallel leads.


 [size=large]The contenders[/size]
 Three Hakko tweezers face off. For pictures and further information on each tool see Hakko FM/FP Handpieces & Accessories.
 From top to bottom:
Hakko FM-2023 Mini Hot Tweezers
Hakko 950 SMD Hot Tweezers
Hakko FM-2022 SMD Parallel Remover

 I'd like to add the Metcal talon to the list, but haven't found a used one at a decent price. I'll add others, as I can afford or borrow them.







 [size=large]Quick Overview[/size]
 These are very different devices, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. Lack of comparable tips for each tool taints this comparison.
The Hakko FM-2023 Mini Hot Tweezers are designed for very small parts, and is the only tool that can reach into cramped quarters, but the small tips make it slow going. It's the most precise and comfortable to use of the pack.
The Hakko 950 SMD Hot Tweezers can be used with the 936 station. Many of the tips are poorly designed (and overpriced) undermining the tool's potential abilities and strengths. The tool could also use a tweak or two and should be less expensive to better match the needs of 936 users.
The Hakko FM-2022 SMD Parallel Remover is a workhorse with a nice selection of precision tips.


 [size=large]The Circuit[/size]
 The two-sided board used for testing is a PNY Technologies GF2-Ti64D-AGP. Only the smallest two terminal parts were removed for this test. I don't know what size parts these are, but they measure under 0.1" long.







 [size=large]Procedures[/size]
 The 2022 and 2023 tweezers were both powered off the Hakko FM-202 dual soldering station. (One at a time.) I set the station temperature to 600F. I then measured the temperature of the tips, measuring both tips in each pair. Readings on the FG-100 thermometer varied from 305-315C, with most of the readings at 307C (585F). I adjusted the dial on the Hakko 936 station to match the 307C temperature of the other tweezers.

 I arrived at the following test procedure by trial and error.
 1.Heat the tweezers to temperature, verified with the thermometer.
 2.Apply solder to the tip.
 3.Desolder four parts in quick succession, removing each part in turn by rubbing the tip against the (unused) soldering iron stand on a panavise electronics workstation.
 4.Touch the tip to fresh solder. This step is necessary because the thermometer only reads correctly if the tip is cleanly soldered.
 5.Measure the temperature of one random tip in the pair.

 Important criteria are as follows:
 1. Speed in removing parts.
 2. Ease of removing parts.
 3. Decreased time to desolder successive parts.
 4. Number of parts that can be desoldered without retinning the tips.
 5. Ease of using the tool.
 6. Selection and build of tips


 [size=large]Discussion[/size]
 As you can see in the pictures, I don't have comparable tips for each tool, so it's difficult to separate the capabilities of the tweezers from the tips. While the 950 did have measurable temperature drop, a more measured approach--slowing down a bit, tinning and/or fluxing the tip between each removal--would give it some time to recover. The mini tweezers also work very well with a measured approach. The 2022 parallel remover with the larger machined tip can stand up to repeated part removal. Tip construction would seem to be a major factor in choosing a tool.

 Couldn't take pictures during actual desoldering. Had to balance the camera with one hand while trying to hold the tool in place with the other.


 [size=large]Hakko FM-2022 SMD Parallel Remover[/size]





 The Hakko FM-2022 SMD Parallel Remover is a workhorse at removing small SMD parts fast and repeatedly. The tip could desolder about eight parts before retinning was necessary. No temperature loss was measured at any time. All available tips are machined, and bent to make proper contact with parts. If anything, this tool operates a little too fast--I'm still fumbling with placing the tool when the part gives way. At these speeds, the grip should be a bit more ergonomic. While fewer tips are available compared to the 950, the actual selection is more varied and useful.


 [size=large]Hakko FM-2023 Mini Hot Tweezers[/size]





 The Hakko FM-2023 Mini Hot Tweezers are designed to get into small spaces where the others can't reach. To suit this purpose, the (3) available tips are very small. It's not designed to quickly desolder several parts in succession without retinning, although it occassionally managed three or four. Perhaps it's because the small tips don't hold enough flux and solder. No temperature loss was measured at any time. The (freshly tinned) tool failed to remove a part a couple of times, and had to be retinned. It has the most comfortable feel of the pack, and operates precisely if you pace yourself, don't go too fast, and tin the tip after desoldering each part. It's the only tool in the pack that can be switched to open or close when squeezed. The tips are set in the tool at an angle, allowing straight tips to grab very small parts. The tip end of the small handle can get hot at higher temperatures (say, 700F).


 [size=large]Hakko 950 SMD Hot Tweezers[/size]





 The Hakko 950 SMD Hot Tweezers are designed to work with the 936 soldering station, unlike the others that require a dual station to operate. Temperature loss was measurable after the removal of a single part, and deteriorated further with repeated desoldering. The (freshly tinned) tool failed to remove a part several times. Most, but not all, of the available tips are flat and angled towards the center so they touch parts at an angle instead of mating precisely with the part. While this isn't necessarily a problem for wide tips meant for SOIC and larger packages, it significantly reduces the efficiency of this tool on smaller parts. With tip prices of $51-53 per pair, Hakko needs to machine the edges or lower their price. Tips must be aligned manually, but once aligned, will consistently close straight. The large handle isn't designed for comfort, making it an awkward tool to use. The lack of a machined edge forced me to hold the tool perpendicular to the part, making it awkward to use.


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## ph33lix

Wow, those tweezers would've made a world of convenience for when I did the iMod.
 Once again, excellent thread.


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## olblueyez

This is what I was trying to describe earlier. What is it and where can I get one?


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## SiBurning

Just found this online
Weller Circuit Board Holders - Test Equipment Depot


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## olblueyez

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SiBurning* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just found this online
Weller Circuit Board Holders - Test Equipment Depot_

 

You Da Man!


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## SiBurning

[size=medium]Hakko 936 ESD Soldering Station[/size]

 This is Hakko's least expensive temperature controlled soldering station.





 List Price: $94
 Includes station, handle, tip (?in all kits?), holder, and accessories.

 Temperature Control:
 The Hakko 936 consumes 60W.
 Temperature range is 392-896F (200-480C).
 Hakko claims an idle temperature accurate to 1C.
 This is a simple analog control using a dial to adjust the temperature.
 Calibration is done by adjusting a screw while measuring the tip temperature.

 Handles:
 Three iron sizes are available to accomodate smaller and heavier tasks.
 The irons are available ESD safe or not.
 A ceramic heating element is built into the handle to heat the tips.






 Tips:
 Tips are heated through contact with the ceramic heating element within the handle.
 Each handle supports its own line of tips in the 900 series: 900-S, 900-M, and 900-L, for the small, medium, and large handles.
 The small handle supports 5 pointy conical tips and 1 bevel.
 The large handle supports 17 tips, including several bevels and knife tips, and a couple of sharp points.
 The medium handle supports 37 tips, including pin point, conical, bevel, chisel, hoof, a few of which are available as bent tips, 
 as well as two knife tips at slightly under 1/4", straight and angled.
 Tip are priced from $5 to $10, with most under $6.50.

 Accessories:
 Can operate the Hakko 950 SMD Hot Tweezers.
 A colorful flame decal is available in red, blue, and orange to make your station look cool.

 First Thoughts:
 Decent iron with good heat capability and recovery, but it runs out of heat on large joints.
 Application of heat isn't precise.
 Good selection of tips.
 Changing tips during use is impractical.

 -----------------------------------------------------------
 [size=medium]Hakko 950 SMD Hot Tweezers (Conversion Kit)[/size]

 Hakko 936 station with 950 hot tweezers and tips.





 List Price: $178
 Conversion Kit includes handpiece, 1 set of 2mm tips, holder, and accessories.

 Supported Soldering Stations:
 Hakko 936, 937, 939, 703, 926, 927 and 928 soldering stations

 Temperature Control:
 The Hakko 950 consumes 50W.
 Tips are heated through contact with the ceramic heating element within the handle.
 Temperature range is 392-752F (200-400C)

 Tips:
 15 tip pairs are available
 Angled tips are available from from 0.5mm to 2mm.
 Straight edge tips are available from 4.0mm to 25mm.
 Two (round) point tips and one solid angle tip (similar to a pair of bevels) is also available.






 First Thoughts:
 It works well and has a good selection of tips.
 Heating is uneven between the two tips.
 Changing tips during use is impractical.
 There's no mechanism to force tips into proper alignment.

 Also see SMD Hot Tweezer Face Off.

 Compared to the other Hakko tweezers, the larger handle helps prevent the tip from aligning off center when the handle is squeezed.


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## SiBurning

[size=medium]Hakko FM-2027 Soldering Iron Handle[/size]
 This is Hakko's top of the line soldering iron handle.




 Note the lighted ring indicating power, and the locking tab on the newer grips.

 List Price: $80
 Includes handpiece and accessories.

 Supported Soldering Stations:
 FX-951 Soldering Station
 FM-203 Dual Port Soldering System
 FM-204 Digital Self-Contained Desoldering Station
 FP-102 Soldering Station (discontinued)
 FM-202 Soldering Station (discontinued)

 Temperature Control:
 There is no heating element in the handle.
 Instead, each tip incorporates its own heating element.
 The element is specially designed for each tip to maintain the appropriate temperature with any supported soldering station.
 No calibration required because the heating element is incorporated in the tip.

 Tips:
 The FM-2027 handle supports 81 tips in the T-15 line. The T-7 line of tips are identical except for the change in part numbers.
 A variety of conical, chisel, knife, slot, bevel, conical, and hoof tips are available in straight and bent styles.
 Specialty tips include blades up to 40mm, tunnels and quads for SOIC, TSOP, and PLCC packages, and a large mass chisel.
 Tip prices vary considerably from $10-15 for standard tips to well over $100 for some of the specialty tips.
 Tips can be changed easily and quickly without switching off the heat.






 Note the lack of locking tabs on the older blue grip.





 First Thoughts:
 Very comfortable, pencil-like control and feel. Soft comfort grip handle prevents slipping rolling.
 Tips can be changed in seconds while the station remains on.
 Fast, precise heating of joints.
 Great tip selection.
 See individual stations for more information on heat capabilities.

 Note:
 The original handle has one annoying shortcoming: the tip would often slip off slightly without alerting you.
 The way you knew was it cooled off and stopped working, and only then did you notice that the light on the handle was off.
 The newer handle has a locking mechanism to prevent this.
 The only quibble I have about the new handle is that it's a bit hard to remove, which is dangerous in a hot tool.

 -----------------------------------------------------------
 [size=medium]Hakko FM-2024 Desoldering Handpiece[/size]






 List Price: unknown
 Includes handpiece and accessories.

 Supported Soldering Stations:
 Hakko FM-203 Dual Port Soldering System (with FM-2024 Desoldering Control Module)
 Hakko FM-204 Digital Self-Contained Desoldering Station
 Hakko FP-102 Soldering Station (with FM-2024 Desoldering Control Module)
 Hakko FM-2024 Desoldering Module (requires separate shop air)

 Temperature Control:
 There is no heating element in the handle.
 Instead, each tip incorporates its own heating element.
 The element is specially designed for each tip to maintain the appropriate temperature with any supported soldering station.
 No calibration required because the heating element is incorporated in the tip.
 Desoldering temperature range is 650-840F (350-450C)

 Tips:
 8 desoldering tips are available.
 Nozzle openings vary from 0.6mm to 2.3mm.
 A 1.0mm extra long nozzle is also available.
 Tips can be changed quickly without switching off the heat.
 Tips are priced from $50-60.

 Additional Features:
 Removable gun handle allows the desoldering toool to be held like a gun or pencil.
 Push button control of suction (trigger control in the gun configuration).







 First Thoughts:
 Quick to melt solder.
 Easy to use, one hand operation (particularly with the pencil grip) and push button control of the vacuum.
 Only works on through hole and point to point: not for SMD.
 No need for awkward, jerking suckers or soldering wick.
 Sucks a hole dry enough to pull off an 8-pin DIP after one pass.
 Just make sure to move the pins slightly while the vacuum is on.
 Requires maintenance of filters.

 Gun configuration





 Shown here in pencil configuration with long nozzle, tip remover in place, and solder filter removed. Also shown are the solder barrel cleaning tool, a regular length tip, the solder filter can, and the fume filters for the air pump.







 [size=medium]Hakko FM-2022 SMD Parallel Remover[/size]











 List Price: $250
 Includes handpiece and stand. Tips not included.

 Supported Soldering Stations:
 FM-202 Soldering Station (discontinued)
 FM-203 Dual Port Soldering System

 Temperature Control:
 The mini tweezers consume 140W.
 Temperature range is 400-750F (200-400C).
 Hakko claims an idle temperature accurate to 10C.
 Each tip incorporates its own heating element.
 Requires the use of both ports of a dual port station.

 Tips:
 13 tip pairs are available in the T16 line, ranging from a 0.5mm point to a 25mm SOP.
 Tips are priced from $70 to $90 a pair.






 Additional Features:
 Flange ensures accurate parallel alignment of tips.
 Quick change tips.
 Sleep mode functionality.

 First Thoughts:

 Tip Alignment. Note how the tip can misalign if you squeeze hard off center.








 Side view






 -----------------------------------------------------------
 [size=medium]Hakko FM-2023 Mini Hot Tweezers[/size]











 The mini parallel remover is designed for use with small chip components as small as 0201.

 List Price: $275
 Includes handpiece, 1 pair of tips, and stand.

 Supported Soldering Stations:
 FM-202 Soldering Station (discontinued)
 FM-203 Dual Port Soldering System

 Temperature Control:
 The mini tweezers consumes 140W. (???)
 Temperature range is 400-750F (200-400C).
 Hakko claims an idle temperature accurate to 10C.
 Each tip incorporates its own heating element.

 Tips:
 3 tip sizes are available in the T9 line, all under 2mm.
 Tips are priced at $60 a pair.

 Additional Features:
 Flange ensures accurate parallel alignment of tips.
 Quick change tips.
 Can be set to either open or close when squeezed.

 First Thoughts:
 They're not kidding when they says this is for tiny SMD parts. I don't know what type of resistors I desoldered, but they measure under 0.1" long. It's really easy to remove them with this tool. The only problem is one that happens with all tweezers and multi-side specialty tips--you need some way to quickly remove the part if you expect to reuse it.

 If you apply pressure the wrong way when you squeeze the handle, it's possible for the tips to be a little off alignment due to the small plastic body.








Tweezers


----------



## SiBurning

Some of these stations require a key to change settings.





 Top: Key for FM-202 & 203. Bottom: Key for FP-102.


 [size=medium]Hakko FP-102 Soldering Station[/size]
 This is a discontinued single port station supporting Hakko's FM-2027 soldering iron.
 It supports 4 fixed temperatures.





 List Price: (discontinued)
 Includes station, handle, holder, and accessories. Tips not included.

 Handles & Tips:
 The station supports the FM-2027 soldering iron handle.

 Temperature Control:
 The station consumes 75W.
 It supports four fixed temperatures: 650F, 700F, 750F, and 800F (343C, 371C, 399C, and 427C).
 Hakko claims an idle temperature accurate to 5C.
 Temperature selection is controlled by pushbuttons.
 LEDs shows which temperature is selected.
 This station does not require calibration.
 Temperature control (within 5C) is achieved during manufacturing by building an appropriate heating element inside each tip.

 Additional Features:
 A keylock is required to change the station's settings.

 Accessories:
 Hakko FM-2024 Desoldering Module (requires separate shop air)
 Hakko FM-2026 Nitrogen Soldering System

 First Thoughts:
 I've had this iron for several years. It's the best piece of soldering equipment I own.
 Highest precision of all the stations reviewed here.
 Best heating capability of all the stations reviewed here.
 Heats normal tips in about 13 seconds.
 Four fixed temperatures 650-800F is sufficient for leaded (and probably unleaded) through hole, but a 300C setting would be useful for smd.
 Requires a silly plastic key to change temperature.

 -----------------------------------------------------------
 [size=medium]Hakko FM-203 Dual Port Soldering System[/size]
 This is Hakko's top of the line dual port standard soldering station supporting Hakko's FM-2027 soldering iron.
 It's the only station that supports all features, including desoldering, tweezers, and nitrogen soldering.
 Note that this station doesn't include a vacuum, so you'll need to supply your own if you plan on using the desoldering tool.





 Note the key must be inserted to change the temperature. Here the 10s digit is blinking as I adjust the temperature for port D (left).


 List Price: $500
 Includes station, handle, holder, and accessories. Tips not included.
 $550 for two handles.

 Handles & Tips:
 The station supports the FM-2027 soldering iron handle.

 Temperature Control:
 The station consumes 70W per channel for a total of 140W.
 Temperature range is 400-840F (200-450C).
 Hakko claims an idle temperature accurate to 15C.
 Temperature adjustment is controlled by pushbuttons.
 A digital display shows temperature and other settings.
 According to Hakko, this station doesn't require calibration.
 Temperature control (within 15C) is achieved during manufacturing by building an appropriate heating element inside each tip.
 Additional (offset) adjustment can be made manually on a per tip basis.

 Additional Features:
 The Hakko FM-203 is a dual port station that can operate two devices simultaneously, except when the tweezers are in use.
 Only the D (left) port is equipped to operate the hot tweezers, and using it puts the S (right) channel into sleep mode.
 A keylock is required to change the station's settings.
 Sleep mode functionality.

 Accessories:
 Hakko FM-2022 SMD Parallel Remover
 Hakko FM-2023 Mini Hot Tweezers
 Hakko FM-2024 Desoldering Module (requires separate shop air)
 Hakko FM-2026 Nitrogen Soldering System

 First Thoughts:
 This just arrived. So far I verified that all devices heat up, checked termperature accuracy, and checked whether it heats different combinations of devices.

 -----------------------------------------------------------
 [size=medium]Hakko FM-204 Digital Self-Contained Desoldering Station[/size]
 This is a soldering/desoldering station supporting Hakko's FM-2027 soldering iron and FM2024 desoldering tool.
 It's the only station that includes built-in vacuum.






 List Price: $650
 Includes station, desoldering handle, holder, and accessories. Tips not included.
 $700 with FM-2027 soldering iron handle.

 Handles & Tips:
 The station supports the FM-2027 soldering iron handle and the FM-2024 Desoldering Handpiece.

 Temperature Control:
 The station consumes 70W for soldering/desoldering, and a total of 120W (probably with the air pump running)
 Soldering temperature range is 400-840F (200-450C).
 Hakko claims an idle temperature accurate to 15C.
 Temperature adjustment is controlled by pushbuttons.
 A digital display shows temperature and other settings.
 This station does not require calibration.
 Temperature control (within 15C) is achieved during manufacturing by building an appropriate heating element inside each tip.
 Additional (offset) adjustment can be made manually on a per tip basis.

 Desoldering:
 Desoldering temperature range is 650-840F (350-450C)

 Vacuum:
 Double cylinder vacuum pump provides 80 kpa (600mm Hg) (24 in. Hg) at 15 liters per minute.

 Additional Features:
 Built-in vacuum allows the use of the FM-2024 Desoldering Handpiece without the need for the FM-2024 Desoldering Module.
 A keylock is required to change the station's settings.
 Sleep mode functionality.

 First Thoughts:
 Desoldering is a pleasure with this station.
 Soldering is good, but not as good as the 102: tips take 30 seonds or longer to heat; heating capacity seems consistently lower than the 102.
 Variable temperature may be useful for SMD and lead-free.
 Requires a silly plastic key to change temperature.


----------



## joelongwood

OK, Steve, it's official............you have waaaaaaay too much time on your hands.


----------



## SiBurning

No! SHE doesn't have enough. Maybe I should start collecting girlfriends instead.


----------



## thedips

this is probably one of the greatest/craziest/insanest/awesomest/weirdest/etcest threads ive ever read in mylife..

 thank you for this...


----------



## Voodoochile

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SiBurning* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some of these stations require a key to change settings._

 

My Weller has something similar, but it uses a magnetic key placed over the logo on the front panel to allow changes.

 Here's another site you might be interested in, Steve:


----------



## SiBurning

Also good for heating up tools





 And here's a tip for taking care of tips.
 If you have tweezers that close with the tips together, don't try to separate the tips when cold. It might strip the plating off the tip.
 @&^#$% 
 I wonder if that's covered by the warranty.





 After trying the tips, I found them to be just fine. The way the solder broke, it looked like the plating stripped, but I think it's just the solder.


----------



## boinger

would you recommend buying the mx-5000 series ? I would like to buy a good system that i can perhaps upgrade stuff in the future. I was thinking I will go with something like the mx-5010 for now and upgrade the parts as I need later. Like adding a desoldering gun etc.


----------



## SiBurning

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boinger* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_would you recommend buying the mx-5000 series ? I would like to buy a good system that i can perhaps upgrade stuff in the future. I was thinking I will go with something like the mx-5010 for now and upgrade the parts as I need later. Like adding a desoldering gun etc._

 

Would I recommend it? Not for the average Head-Fi member. It's just too expensive. You don't say what you really need and what you're planning to do with it, so I'll just ramble generally.

 I have the Metcal 500, and it works great. It's very precise, has a great selection of tips, and some good add-ons. The one serious issue I have with their lineup is the comparatively low power in all their older units. The MX-5000 should solve this limitation, since its an 85W system. By comparison, the MX-500 is rated at 50W. It's not a problem for most new work, but the low power can be a limitation when resoldering vintage or tube gear with heavy gauge wire soldered to bolts, screws, etc. Also, I believe the MX line requires you to supply your own air compressor or similar vacuum device (at something like 60-85 PSI) for the desoldering tool: I don't think Metcal sells anything with built-in vacuum in that line.

 Since you're considering the MX-5000, I assume you're looking to buy new and don't mind spending a lot of money. In that kind of price range, you might also want to look into JBC. This Soldering Iron Evaluation might be useful. I haven't found much online about JBC, but what I've found has all been very positive.

 It might be more cost effective to go with separate, dedicated tools. A good iron. A through-hole vacuum desoldering tool. Hot air pencil. Tweezers. Maybe a wire stripper. Which do you need? How often do you need them? Do they all have to be top notch tools? You can get some really nice used systems at very good prices.


----------



## SiBurning

Been busy with other toys, but did pick up a few soldering tools. Hope to do some reviews soon. Haven't even tried these yet.











 Also started picking up parts to do some more thorough tests. Protoboard, a Bellin P510 Snap-Apart board, junk like that.


----------



## boinger

Ill be using the irons mainly for Heavy DIY work on computers / audio equipment, thats prob it maybe in the future I will find more applications for it, I'm not concerned so much with the price as long as it is a good product, although I dont want it to be excessive either. 

 I have been doing a lot of research and im thinking of buying the new oki international lines, MFR-1110 / 1120 (although i dont quite understand the difference between the tip / cartridge system that they have) 

 Another thing I was considering is to get a MFI-PS2k psu and add a soldering kit onto that so I can upgrade for teh future, but then I realized that if I get a cheaper iron I can simply get a dedicated desoldering tool when i feel its necessary. That seems to be what you recommended as well. So I will prob go for something like the metcal-1110/1120 (its the same price as some other stations here because of duty) and i found a source which will give it to me at U.S.A. prices. 

 (located in india btw)


----------



## SiBurning

I originally posted the following here. After further investigation (see a few posts down), it turns out this isn't true. 

  Quote:


 The MFR uses smartheat, so there's no temperature control. That must mean it uses a single, fixed temperature. Since it's designed for lead-free use, it's probably a very high temperature. Smartheat is Metcal's technology, so it's probably quite stable at that temperature. Doesn't really matter though if it's always too hot. At least the MX series lets you buy different tips to work at different temperatures. Maybe I missed something, and the MFR series also has different tips for different temperatures, but the only thing on the website is to choose between different types of circuit board material. Variable temperature contol is one of the reasons I prefer Hakko to Metcal. 
 

They do offer three different tips, although they dumb down the names. Instead of using part numbers like 6xx, 7xx (for 600F and 700F) they use the letters F, T, and C. They don't mention how these are different, but the way smartheat works can only mean different temperatures.
 F = FR4/Glass Fiber
 T = Temperature sensitive components
 C = Ceramic components

 If you think you'll need a dedicated desoldering tool, you should do the research there before making a decision. There's the Hakko 808. Otherwise, you'll end up paying a lot for a name brand station with built-in vacuum. This is one area that begs for providing your own air. Then you only need to make sure the station can operate the tool. Or find something used.

 Have you looked into used equipment? That Pace station cost $250 (plus a lot for shipping because of the heavy work-table), and although it's pretty old, the tools are compatible with the current PRC-2000 model. If you go this route, be careful that you can get parts for whatever you buy.

 By the way, there's a few nice, cheap Hakkos on ebay (US). The FP-102 and FM-202, and an FX-951. Very good prices, if noone goes crazy on them. Maybe they're clones.


----------



## boinger

I'm located in India thats why I cant go for a used system, and the duties will add up to just buying a brand new unit here. The hakko here is as expensive as the metcal, that is why I was leaning towards the metcal. I have been watching there videos and they say the Iron adjusts to the soldering load, and as far as I can tell from their catalogue they havent specified a specific temperature for either tip/cartridge. Thats why I was a bit confused.


----------



## SiBurning

Any temperature controlled iron "adjusts". Metcal rightly talks about their unique temperature control system. It's the best technology out there. Then they make a bunch of claims about the wonders of temperature control, hoping you connect the two and think you can only get those benefits from their products. They're careful to never make that connection explicit because it's bogus. I don't mean to knock their products. The MX series is very good, and all of their lines use the same smartheat technology now. It's just that their marketing talk is craftily designed to encourage you to read things that aren't there.

 I spent a good bit of time looking at the Metcal lineup today. Don't know what to recommend, but maybe this will help.

 Here's what I see happening at Metcal recently.
Metcal discontinued the SP200 as of yesterday, July 31, 2009. This makes sense, since they now have the MFR line at a similar price point.
Metcal is dumbing down temperature. They refer to the new temperatures by use rather than temperature. Instead of the old 6xx, 7xx part numbers (for 600F and 700F) they use F, T, or C: *F*R4/Glass Fiber, *T*emperature sensitive components, and *C*eramic components.
Their MFR line supports the FTC temperatures by selecting different tips. The older SP-200 supported 500F, 600F, and 700F by using different tips.
An MFR handpiece is available for users upgrading from the SP-200 that lets them continue to use the older cartridges. Since the cartridge controls the temperature, this allows the MFR to have the same temperature selection as the SP-200.
The low end PS-900 that will replace the PS-800 also uses the FTC temperatures. The PS-800 supports 650F, 700F, 750F, and 800F. This station supports only soldering, and a limited range of tips. It uses smartheat cartridges.
The MFR series supports soldering and tweezers. It also has handpieces that use either the smartheat cartridge sytem, or the cheaper tip system. The tip system doesn't incorporate smartheat technology. I haven't seen it close up, but it looks like the handle contains a ceramic heater.
The MX-5000 is the replacement for the MX-500. The main benefit is increased heat output. It uses the same temperature controlled cartridges as the MX-500, and offers the same, very wide variety of tips. There are otherwise only minor changes, the most interesting being an expanded line of SMT tips for MX-500 users.
All of their latest products increase the raw wattage output over the previous systems by about 80%. This addresses one of the shortcoming of Metcal's products, and is especially important for unleaded solder. Bear in mind that Metcal smartheat is more efficient than most other irons, so this change is huge.
They just recently started releasing literature suggesting that precise temperature control isn't important if you can deliver more heat. I'm not sure what to make of this. On the one hand they boast about precise temperature control, while on the other they dumb down the temperatures and claim a 30C drift is irrelevant. Are they merely trying to shift their marketing talk away from temperature, or are they planning to let their irons start drifting? I suspect it's strictly a marketing ploy. With fewer, dumbed down, temperatures in their new stations, their sales people will lose any competition based on temperature, so they need to redirect the discussion.

 About dumbing down the temperatures...

 I understand how some of the changes are directed at unleaded soldering. In a way, it's a difficult challenge. You need higher temperatures to melt lead-free solder compared to traditional lead-tin mixes. The close placement of parts begs for more precise heat control, which benefits from lower temperatures. Another issue is you can't tell temperature by looking at the melted solder the way you can with lead-tin--it just doesn't "shine" when its right. In other words, it's plain harder to solder lead-free SMD boards. Maybe variable temperature isn't the right way to go, in general. So, maybe Metcal's doing the right thing for their customers. Or maybe it's all marketing BS.

 They've certainly left the option open for customers that demand different temperatures. When you come right down to it, they've simplified the line a little by offering a single temperature in the standard MFR handle, but they're only planning to actually eliminate one of the temperature options. Can't blame a company for consolidating just a bit in a poor economy.


----------



## Edwood

Funny thing is I brought my Metcal SP200 to CanJam 2009. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Ed


----------



## SiBurning

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Edwood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Funny thing is I brought my Metcal SP200 to CanJam 2009. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Ed_

 

Did you get to use it there?

 Glad you showed up. Can you add anything about the SP200? I suspect it might be possible to get one cheap pretty soon, now that they're discontinued.


----------



## boinger

Hmm so what would you recommend, I do get the lower temp tips for the metcal system ? or just go for the hakko 951 

 Keep in mind they are exactly the same price if maybe the hakko slightly more expensive.


----------



## SiBurning

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boinger* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm so what would you recommend, I do get the lower temp tips for the metcal system ? or just go for the hakko 951 

 Keep in mind they are exactly the same price if maybe the hakko slightly more expensive._

 

I think you'll be very happy with either one. The Hakko has the edge in temperatures: wider range and no need to buy separate tips. The Metcal probably does a slightly better job, and will support the tweezers.


----------



## MonoTekETeA

Just joined this forum to state how awesome this thread was. I was thinking about a Hakko FM-2024, but think I will just save a few bucks and get a FM-102 and a 808.

 Thanks a bunch for your collection and reviews, it is really insightful. Hopefully I can learn something about sound and music while I am here too!

 -Jeremy


----------



## SiBurning

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MonoTekETeA* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just joined this forum to state how awesome this thread was. I was thinking about a Hakko FM-2024, but think I will just save a few bucks and get a FM-102 and a 808.

 Thanks a bunch for your collection and reviews, it is really insightful. Hopefully I can learn something about sound and music while I am here too!

 -Jeremy_

 

Thanks. I need to get off my lazy bottom and update some more.

 Keep in mind that the 102 (and I think the new FX-951) requires manual calibration. That means you'll need to open it up, check it with a thermometer, and probably replace parts. I haven't tried, so I don't know what's necessary. (It's one of the things I need to get off my bottom and do.) As I mentioned in  post #10, mine runs hot by 30F. It's a nice tool for through hole work. The lowest temperature isn't as low as it could be for SMD. And you shouldn't pay much more than 100usd. 

 I don't recommend getting an expensive, dedicated through hole desoldering tool at all unless you restore a lot of through-hole equipment. If you do mostly older stuff (say, pre 1980), that's exactly the kind of equipment where suckers & bulbs do their best work, and it tends to hold up to heat a lot better, too. Older printed circuit boards were built heavier because they were designed to be hand soldered quickly by average technicians using the same soldering irons they used to solder 18ga wire to screws. For newer equipment, or if you do a lot of desoldering on your DIY projects, it can be very useful. Even one mistake can cost you a board, and maybe an expensive piece of equipment. You have to make the decision based on what you'll do with it. I went for the dedicated station because I perfer tips that are directly heated, but the truth is, it doesn't seem as useful for desoldering as for soldering. In other words, I have to assume the tips on the portable one is just as good. Don't ask me about the vacuum, though.


----------



## SiBurning

Picked up this automated solder feed. It's a SY-003 from Soldering System Enterprise. The soldering iron was just awful, so I ripped it out. Not sure how to adapt that arm for a universal iron holder.

 The length and speed of the solder are controlled by dials on the unit, as is (was) the iron temperature. The solder feed itself is activated by a foot pedal. It works okay, but seems to get stuck a lot, depending on the solder thickness. I'm using 0.020", which is thinner than supported by this unit, and probably accounts for the occassional sticking. It's easy enough to get it working again. Just need to pull back the spring and pull fresh solder through the gear. The trick is dong that without breaking the solder and needing to thread it again. It only takes 30 seconds to thread, so it's not a huge deal, but I might get just thicker solder. 

 The real issue is in how to use this thing. You can certainly use this as is without some kind of moving stage. With a little setup, you can position the circuit board so the solder feeds into the joint when you want it to. It's kind of like a third hand that automatically feeds the solder. Very handy. But...

 I think it wants the board to be held in an movable table or stage or something. The XY navigation (and rotation) can be by hand, so that's not really required, since you can just move the board around. The Z does seem to be necessary. Err... well... as necessary as an unnecessary luxury can be. A foot pedal to raise the board would be ideal for completely hands free operation. Of course, you'll need to hand hold the sponge to clean off the iron.

 Think about how you'd use this. It puts solder and the iron in a fixed position. The only way to solder is to move the board into that exact position. If the point is to be able to solder quickly, then you need to be able to set things up quickly. It's just not possible to move the board without burning something on the iron unless you have control over the height of the board. Raising and lowering the board is the only way to control how long the iron is on the part. If you think this through, you'll realize that a simple XY table is the wrong kind of stage, since you also need to rotate the board to position the iron properly. I think a Z-stage covered with a silcon baking pad would be perfect. Then you could use a flat vise to hold the board and just move it around by hand.

 By the way, the board that's sitting on is the table top from the Pace PRC1000. Note the grounding connector near the rear left.






 ::cough:: ::cough:: 'nuff said.


----------



## SiBurning

I have no experience with SMD whatsoever. I've stayed away because it's just too small to see, even under a lighted magnifier. That all changed yesterday.

 I finally got around to the Mini3. The first step is to install the SMD chips. Question is, how? 

 I've been wanting to try out the Zephyrtronics pyramid looking air pencil. It's touted as having slow air flow, unlike the normal hot air tools. The slower air is supposed to make it suitable for any type of soldering.






 There are two problems. First, the pencil doesn't seem to get hot enough. The temperature air that comes out of the pencil depends not only on theheat settings, but also the speed of airflow. But it couldn't melt my 0.062" 60:40 solder at any settings. Even the 0.020" 63:37 was a little slow. I bought this unit used, so maybe it needs calibration or repair.

 So I know this is going to be a rough job with the air pencil. This is my first time using the Zephyrtronics, so it might just take some getting used to. Stupid of me to practise on an expensive chip, instead of some throw away parts.

 Out with the solder paste. I don't know how anyone can work with such small parts. The paste comes out of the syringe as huge globs compared to the traces. Well, it's supposed to work just fine globbing it all over the traces. The flux is supposed to do some kind of magical attraction thing I remember hearing about vaguely in Chemistry class, so I just globbed the gunk all over and hoped for the best.

 Working under the cheap lighted magnifier, the solder looks like it flows, and I was able to get it to where it looked good at 2.6x magnification. The chip was a little off center, but looked okay. It did take longer that I was comfortable with, but not so long that I was really worried.

 But the microscope told a very different story. Under the microscope it was a mess. There were blobs and splashes of solder beads everywhere. (The solder paste is made of tiny beads of solder in some flux fluid.) One mound melted and nestled between two leads and hid out mostly behind the leads, under the chip. There were other potential solder bridges all over the place. Okay. easy enough to fix. just need to flow it more. 

 No pictures of that because they didn't come out. I'm still struggling with the camera and lighting. The mirror in the camera shakes when it takes a picture, which blurrs the picture. Wish I knew about this before buying the camera, since other models are available that move the mirror first, then settle down and take the picture later. So, apologies for blurry shots.

 So after a whole lot more heat... I could see flux rippling around, but there was no visible clue about whether the solder was melting or not. I had to grab the visor and keep flipping down the magnifier to check. It finally looked good.

 Well, here's one chip. You can see how it's misaligned, but it should work just fine. The solder splashes are gone, and there aren't any more visible shorts, but it took a long time to get there. Two of the traces are burnt, and I'm not sure the chip itself survived the heat.





 Moving in a little closer reveals how much solder is still on the board. There's two traces of solder coming off the top right pin. They're not touching anything, but still. You can also see some unmelted solder beads splashed around the board.





 Both of these closeups were taken after about three heavy sprays of solder cleaner, but I didn't wipe, just spray. This next picture shows just how much flux is still left between the leads and under the chip. Before remelting, there was even more flux, and it was full of solder beads. You can also see the condition of the chip in this picture. I'm not sure if the stuff melted on top of the chip is splash from the solder paste, or something on the chip melting, like maybe the ink.






 Score:
 Zephyrtronics -1
 Mini3 -1
 Cheap lighted magnifier -1
 SiBurning +1

 +1 for me? Yes. They say we learn from out mistakes until we can repeat them exactly. Next time I try to flow something, I might pull out a small tip with a better air machine. Meanwhile, I have to find out more about that pyramid looking thing.


----------



## cobaltmute

SMT work needs *very* little solder.

 I did one board using the skillet method. The paste out of the syringe didn't want to stick and I ended up cleaning the board about 5 times before I got to actually placing the chips. I found the smallest of dabs of solder paste worked ok (like a small dab covering 1/3 of the pad). End result after heating looked very good though.


----------



## deltaydeltax

How do you like the Weller Fumex? I have a Pace Arm-Evac which works really well. It's loud, but takes care of all fumes, and even gets rid of odors.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SiBurning* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Picked up this automated solder feed. The soldering iron was just awful, so I ripped it out. Not sure how to adapt that arm for a universal iron holder.

 The length and speed of the solder are controlled by dials on the unit, as is (was) the iron temperature. The solder feed itself is activated by a foot pedal. It works okay, but seems to get stuck a lot, depending on the solder thickness. I'm using 0.020", which is thinner than supported by this unit, and probably accounts for the occassional sticking. It's easy enough to get it working again. Just need to pull back the spring and pull fresh solder through the gear. The trick is dong that without breaking the solder and needing to thread it again. It only takes 30 seconds to thread, so it's not a huge deal, but I might get just thicker solder. 

 The real issue is in how to use this thing. You can certainly use this as is without some kind of moving stage. With a little setup, you can position the circuit board so the solder feeds into the joint when you want it to. It's kind of like a third hand that automatically feeds the solder. Very handy. But...

 I think it wants the board to be held in an movable table or stage or something. The XY navigation (and rotation) can be by hand, so that's not really required, since you can just move the board around. The Z does seem to be necessary. Err... well... as necessary as an unnecessary luxury can be. A foot pedal to raise the board would be ideal for completely hands free operation. Of course, you'll need to hand hold the sponge to clean off the iron.

 Think about how you'd use this. It puts solder and the iron in a fixed position. The only way to solder is to move the board into that exact position. If the point is to be able to solder quickly, then you need to be able to set things up quickly. It's just not possible to move the board without burning something on the iron unless you have control over the height of the board. Raising and lowering the board is the only way to control how long the iron is on the part. If you think this through, you'll realize that a simple XY table is the wrong kind of stage, since you also need to rotate the board to position the iron properly. I think a Z-stage covered with a silcon baking pad would be perfect. Then you could use a flat vise to hold the board and just move it around by hand.

 By the way, the board that's sitting on is the table top from the Pace PRC1000. Note the grounding connector near the rear left.





 ::cough:: ::cough:: 'nuff said.



_


----------



## SiBurning

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *deltaydeltax* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do you like the Weller Fumex? I have a Pace Arm-Evac which works really well. It's loud, but takes care of all fumes, and even gets rid of odors._

 

Just checked the Pace line. Very nice options for filters, but the filters are a bit expensive.

 Can't really say much about the Weller. It works. I've tried it. Once. But I don't use it regularly. It's just too loud and annoying. It obviously has an air compressor inside. I can hear it chugging away loudly under pressure from the small tube. The tubing on it is for a soldering iron. I should probably just attach it to a helping hand and use it. The nice thing about it is the hepa filters are relatively inexpensive.

 I also have a Hakko 3010, the outdated precursor to the current 3100. It came with a clean hepa filter, but I don't know if the new filters are compatible--I have to call them, but I might be stuck. It's got no tubing. I've only used it as a room air cleaner, just letting the little hole suck in air, and it cleans out the room in a few minutes, just like a hepa air filter machine should. This might end up being used elsewhere--not for electronics. Maybe the kitchen. It whirrs like a fine tuned vacuum cleaner. A bit too loud for late night use, but nowhere near as annoying as the compressor.

 So far, the one I actually use is the little Hakko 493 fan thing. It's nice and quiet, like a fan should be. Filters are cheap--about $10us I think. Unfortunately, it's got no hepa filter, so eventually, I need to hook up one of the other machines. I think you can get the 493 filters either as the accordion-folded paper type (like an old car air filter) or charcoal, but it doesn't look like you can install them both at the same time. I'll try that when this accordion filter gets rotten and I have to order more.

 For others considering a filter, the filters on the cheap systems--like the Hakko 493--are essentially the prefilters used on more expensive devices, although the Weller doesn't seem to have a prefilter. The Hakko 3100 and the Pace systems do have prefilters. They help protect the more expensive hepa filters and prolong their life. Otherwise, any of these will work okay for a single soldering station. Not all the lead and other fumes are removed by the cheap filters even though the air coming out the back is clear. The hepa filters will take a lot of that stuff out, especially the charcoal activated filters. Don't use a cheap filter without ventillation, and do the research on the more expensive solutions before you close the windows. I don't know exactly which filters remove what percentage of which particles and gasses, but I do know that none of these is going to stop you from choking when you spray that flux remover on your circuit board. ::cough::

 I think there's space for all three of these. The Weller would make a good point station, attaching the tubing directly to the soldering iron. Or attaching it to a small shroud just above the soldering area. The small hakko would be good to connect to a window--get some cheap filtering at the source, then send the result through a tube to a square attachment mounted in a window thing. Good for sprays, burnt stuff, and things like that. Finally, the larger hakko would be good to clean the room more generally, although there's no need for a separate device, since all it requires is a splitter off the point tubing. Not so for a window fan.


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## MonoTekETeA

Yeah, I plan on doing a lot of Arcade PCBs, which almost make the year mark, but are still manufactured by machine. I ordered my FP-102 on ebay for $130 shipped, and am happily waiting for it. I will be ordering the 808 tonight.


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## SiBurning

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MonoTekETeA* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I plan on doing a lot of Arcade PCBs, which almost make the year mark, but are still manufactured by machine. I ordered my FP-102 on ebay for $130 shipped, and am happily waiting for it. I will be ordering the 808 tonight.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Makes sense for arcades.
 Let us know how the 808 is.


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## SiBurning

Before you solder parts, you need to cut and form the leads and place them on the circuit board. Here are some cool toys that make that more fun.

 xcelite 1178m:
 Everyone should have a pair of flush cutters. They allow you to cut leads flush against the solder or board. As pointed out below, you should probably have a real good pair of flush cutters or something like them. The xcelite isn't all that great, and not well worth the money.









 Hakko TR-3015:
 Even better are offset cutters that cut a fixed distance from the board.









 Hakko TS-30:
 Offset cutters come in a trimmer style, too.





 Hakko PN-5040:
 This former makes easy work of 90 degree angles.





 Hakko PTR-30-C:
 This one puts a kink (aka strain relief) in the lead to help hold it in place on the circuit board. For axial leads, bend the part while still in the grip of this former to bend the leads 90 degrees. You'll quickly get the hang of how to fit the part while leaving room for the bend.





 Hakko TP-30:
 I'm not sure of the intended use of this tool. You can't just put the TP-30 up to the component and cut/form. You need to place it at the right distance, and then fit the part with pressure. The alternative is to surface mount the part.





 Hakko PPR-5001 & PPR-5002:
 These help form a double bend, which is used to convert axial leads for radial use. I'm not quite sure how to use them.





 It seems like you're supposed to grasp one lead in the left side and fold the other lead over until it fits neatly in the right side.





 Xuron xuro-former 573:
 This is my favorite of the pack. It forms a strain relief that holds the part on the board. The cool thing is this kink can be made vibration proof. (See the following picture.)





 You might want to take these kinks a little further, bending the leads into various formations. You can do that best while the part is still gripped in the former. The v-shaped kink is supposed to act like a spring, damping vibration and other mechanical movement. I forget the technical term for this kind of kink, but I think it was mandatory in certain circles for larger parts like 470uF and larger capacitors. You're supposed to solder this below the double-kink, leaving it free to damp vibrations.





 The front two use the xuron. I bent the front part back 90 degrees while in the grip of the former to form the old-school vibration-proof strain relief. Take note that instead of using the v-shape for vertical vibration damping, I use that part to hold onto the circuit board. Instead, I bent the lead while in the former to form a free double kink in the horizontal direction. The middle part uses the xuron without bending the part further. The part in the rear was formed with the TP-30.





 Oops! Anyone know how to use the TP-30?





 Many of the Hakko CHP line of hand cutters & formers are out of stock or discontinued. While some of them are quite good, there are better tools out there. The problem is they're just as hard to find and 2-10 times the cost. I fell in love with two of them until I saw the price. $185 and $219. That's why I broke down and ordered the Hakko CHP tools.


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## MisterX

Quote:


 xcelite 1178m:
 Everyone should have a better pair of flush cutters then these. 
 

Fixed that for you.


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## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MisterX* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fixed that for you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

agreed. I'll probably never buy another xcelite tool.. I have a bunch and when they get out of alignment (which seems to be how they start to fail) I'll replace them with similar CK tools, which literally will last a lifetime.


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## SiBurning

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MisterX* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fixed that for you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, the xcelite seemed a bit rough from day one, but it's better than the sears cutters they replaced. It's always been just a bit out of alignment. Maybe in a strange way that's why I haven't replaced it. I'm also just a bit out of alignment.

 Thanks for pointing that out. I fixed that post.


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## MisterX

Quote:


 I'll replace them with similar CK tools, which literally will last a lifetime. 
 

If I had it to do over again.....I would prolly go with the Erem 592Es instead. 
 My CK cutters were not all that until after I re-sharpened them. 
 They sure could shoot the leads for distance with the stock edges though.


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## SiBurning

If you want to make your own decisions about which solder to use and how to solder, you need to know what factors to consider. A few random things to consider are:

 The materials you're soldering, including coatings on boards and parts, and how the materials in solder interact with them
 The solidification behavior of different solder compositions, in both eutectic solder and solders with a plastic phase
 Properties of solder, such as adhesion, wetting, flow, and the structure of solidified solder
 How solidified solder and joints behave over time, and what can go wrong
  I don't know of any really good guide to it all. Instead, here's a bunch of random documents that together should give an idea of the variety of issues, and steer you towards asking the right questions and maybe how to get answers. I haven't vetted these, or even read all of them through, because what's important is that it exposes you to concepts. They vary from "scholarly" research (phd crap) to more understandable stuff, so don't be put off by a few--give them all a look first.

 There's nothing here about how solder sounds. That's a different discussion.

Soft Solder Navigate back from there for info on soldering copper.
A Comparison Of Tin-Silver-Copper Lead-Free Solder Alloys
Fracture of a Lead-Tin and a Tin-Silver Solder Under Combined Tensile Shear Loading
Tin Plague
Traditional Solder Materials
The Impact of Reflowing A Pbfree Solder Alloy Using A Tin/Lead Solder Alloy Reflow Profile On Solder Joint Integrity

 One thing I couldn't find was a comparison between eutectic and plastic-phase solders. I'd suggest that if a part is moving because you're holding it by hand, a eutectic solder could lead to a less secure joint that looks good, while a solder with a plastic-phase could lead to a more reliable joint that looks bad.

 Some solder melting temperatures. I don't believe these numbers are all correct.
   Code:


```
[left] Plastic Temp Liquid Temp %Sn %Pb %Ag %Sb %Cu C F C F 0 100 . . . . 327 620 10 90 . . 224 435 302 576 38 62 . . 183 361 242 468 48 52 . . 183 361 218 424 60 40 . . 183 361 188 370 63 37 . . Eutectic 183 361 100 . . . . . 232 450 95 . . 5 232 450 238 460 35 63 . 2 187 369 237 459 27 70 3 . 179 354 312 594 40 57 3 . 179 354 312 594 62.5 36.1 1.5 . Eutectic 179 354 96.3 0 3.7 . Eutectic 221 430 0 97.5 2.5 . Eutectic 305 581 0.08 97.5 1.75 . Eutectic 310 590 ~61 ~35 ~3 . ~1 Eutectic 190 374 Cardas Quad Eutectic 95.5 . 4 . 0.5 Eutectic 217 423 Indalloy 246 Sn = Tin Ag = Silver Pb = Lead Sb = Antimony Cu = Copper[/left]
```

  While I'm at it, here's a few other useful things related to soldering techniques. This is the practical side of the same issue.
Soldered Electrical Connections
Through-Hole Soldering Terminals
Through-Hole Solder Joint Evaluation
Solder Quality Factors

 Also check out
NASA Workmanship Standards
http://www.boulder.nist.gov/
http://www.ipc.org/

 And snoop around http://www.circuitrework.com/guides/guides.shtml


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## SiBurning

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *unl3a5h3d* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What wattage (soldering iron) is the best for cables?_

 

If I only had one cheap iron for cables, I'd want at least 50W. But that's very simplistic.

 Wattage is only one factor. There's also the efficiency of heat transfer, temperature, and a variety of factors that affect how well the iron maintains a given temperature.

 Wattage is the amount of power consumed by the device, including any power and heat lost in the electronics.

 Heating elements can be more or less efficient in converting power to heat. Ceramic elements are more efficient than coils by about 1/3, so a 35W iron with a ceramic element will typically produce as much heat as a 50W coil.

 As soon as you touch the tip to a colder material, heat flows from the tip to the material. The loss of heat begins to lower the tip temperature immediately. To maintain a constant tip temperature, you need to add heat to the tip as fast as it's being transfered to the other material. Faster, in fact, because there are losses all around.

 The larger the piece of material, the more heat is required to raise its temperature a certain number of degrees. A connector has more metal than a resistor, so you need more heat to raise its temperature to the point where solder melts. It's actually not so straight forward because heat flows at different rates depending on the structure or configuration of the material, as well as the type of material. If you can heat a small point quickly, the heat won't have much time to dissipate through the material, so the small point will come up to a higher temperature. This is one reason people use a high temperature iron and solder quickly.

 A simple iron without temperature control simply supplies the same amount of energy to the heating element at all times. The switch controls the amount of energy. The temperature of the tip when idle (i.e. once the temperature stabilizes) comes about from the balance between various losses and efficiencies, and particularly radiation of heat from the tip to air. Touch that tip to a connector and you can guess what happens. Heat is transferred to the connector, but the incoming heat doesn't change, so the tip temperature drops, usually considerably. Without feedback to tell the iron to crack up the heat, the temperature will stay lower all the time it's in contact with the connector.

 In a temperature controlled iron, there's a sensor that detects temperature. This is wired to a switch that controls the heating element. The dial controls the temperature at which the switch triggers. When it triggers, energy is applied to the element heating the tip. When the temperature is higher than the setting, the energy is cut off. Touch this tip to a connector, and the same thing happens at first. Heat immediately begins flowing into the connector, and the tip temperature drops, but the sensor detects this and more energy is applied to the heating element to compensate for the heat loss.

 Additional complications arise in any iron, but that are more important in a temperature controlled iron. The ability of any element to heat the tip is affected by the distance between the element and the tip as well as the conductivity of the material. There's also less heat loss when the element is closer to the tip, because such designs typically have less material between the element and tip from which heat can radiate. Because of this, you want the heating element as close as possible to the tip. For the same reason, the closer the sensor is to the tip, the faster it will detect the heat loss and compensate. With both very close to the tip, the whole system will compensate faster. The initial temperature drop when you contact some material will be smaller, and the tip will have a better chance to remain at the predetermined temperature. Some irons have more sophisticated temperature controls. Metcal, for example, uses a small high frequency coil very close to the tip to generate heat, and relies on special materials that become magnetic or nonmagnetic at a certain temperature to pass or block the magnetic field. This is a very efficient system that makes a 50W Metcal competitive with a 70W hakko which uses ceramic elements, and the Metcal has better stability because the feedback system is so fast.

 While temperature controlled irons are usually more efficient, and can maintain temperatures better, they can still only generate as much heat as their wattage and efficiency allow. With a large enough or cold enough block of material, even a high powered iron can lose more heat than it can generate. Irons with higher power ratings are capable of generating more heat, so you do want more wattage when soldering larger components. But you can't just compare wattage ratings without taking into account the efficiency of the heating element and the other losses in the design.


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## fishski13

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MisterX* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I had it to do over again.....I would prolly go with the Erem 592Es instead. 
 My CK cutters were not all that until after I re-sharpened them. 
 They sure could shoot the leads for distance with the stock edges though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

i have to close my eyes when cutting with my Hakko brand cutter. it says "Made in Italy" on the handle so it must be good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. the handles are Ducati red to boot. 

 i'm using less solder these days and prolly saving wear and tear on the blades.

 i have zero complaints with my Hakko 936. i switch tips on the fly and attain temp quickly without issue.


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