# Light Harmonic Geek Out EM/1000 Impressions Thread



## mikemercer

Light Harmonic Geek Out 1000
  
 Forgive me in advance if this seems premature  - posting an Impressions AND Appreciation Thread dedicated to Light Harmonics Geek Out 1000:

  
 I've been hearing positive things from other GEEK campaign supporters/early adopters, so I'm hoping some of them find this thread and contribute some thoughts on their experiences with this lil' beast of an amp/DAC! I'm still in the first impressions phase to be honest - but judging by my reaction to the prototype at CanJam, back in October 2013, and the more refined production component I received/own: I'm just gonna fall deeper in love with the Geek Out 1000 - Man something about that sentence is so cheesy, but rockin the Geek Out with my Audeze LCD-XC's and MOG, Spotify, Amarra, and various other streams (via my MacBook Pro Retina SSD) has kept a smile on my face for hours. I haven't reacted this way to a USB dongle-style amp/DAC since I first heard the HRT microStreamer (still-thriving thread and review). Now, there are other headphone amp/DACs like this that I enjoy as well: The obvious Audioquest Dragonfly, Meridian Explorer, and Audioengine D3 come to mind, but the Geek Out 1000, to this hobbyists' ears, lives in a class all its own.
  
 The Geek Out 1000 prototype blew me away at Canjam at RMAF late last year:

  
It sounds like it's been refined since then! Now it has been a while so that could be in my head, admittedly, but a couple of friends also noticed this.  They told me so without my sharing any thoughts on the production unit vs. the proto.  So either way: Light Harmonic has built something special in the Geek Out 1000.  The sound grabs me like one of my reference-level desktop rigs when I'm using my Audeze LCD-3's, HD800's, and other power hungry cans. The dynamic slam and richness of tonality from the Geek with the cans mentioned (and Amarra as source) are superbly executed. The bassline, kick, and various synth pads drop, ripple and curl during Tricky's "Somebody's Sins". The continuousness, the silkiness of the sounds, are sublimely textured and colorful. Its got that sparkle factor - the magic that keeps you glued to your headphones. Shlohmo's "Places"; a bass-heavy, knockin' minimal electronic r&b style track just booms. The bassline hovers throughout the whole track. There's no break in this low end tone that weaves in and out of the percussion and other elements. This is one of my favorite tracks to drive to late-night. The Geek Out 1000 handled it all with ease and grace.
  
 The Geek Out's equal to the task when it comes to acoustic instruments too. The 70's guitar rift in Daft Punk's "Get Lucky" feat. Pharrell Williams is tight and focused. The strings during Mogwai's "Special N" are emotionally charged and spacious. They soar, and trail off naturally - the somber notes are palpable. This track gets me every time. I'm not sure what it is, but the chord progression reminds me of party nights morphing into early-morning laughter and good times with my closest friends. I always picture treasured moments like that when I hear that composition. I know that might sound wacky, but it chokes me up: In a good way. The funny things is, it's an instant listening tool for me as well! If the system isn't resolving enough I don't get that emotional vibe in the pit of my stomach. It's an instant reaction - and sometimes I get a piece of kit in for review, I play "Special N", and nothing...  If it doesn't grab me emotionally it's useless for my purposes.  Music is one of my drugs of choice. But the systems gotta translate the emotive power of the music as well as all the sonic ear-candy. Light Harmonics Geek Out 1000 delivers the candy and the feelings behind it.
  
 I also love the look and feel of the product. It's got a very clean, modern aesthetic and it feels substantial in my hands. The Geek Out is bigger than other USB dongle/memory stick-like USB amp/DACs that have a similar form factor. It looks about twice the width of the Dragonfly and a little thicker than the HRT microStreamer. It's got two 3.5mm output jacks: a nice touch. It also handles up to 32-bit/384Hz as well as DSD (natively). That's fantastic. No more wondering if the DAC will handle the sample or bit-rates of the music I pick up when I use the Geek Out. It's like having an HRT microStreamer on steroids.  I knew I was going to dig the sound of the Geek Out within twenty seconds of Shigeto's "First Saturn Return" off their _No Better Time Than Now_ record. The track combines stripped-down jazz elements with classic 80's video game bleeps and pings.  The soundstage is airy and dark, wide and deep. It's wide-open, a slick chill-out track - and the Geek captured all the nuances perfectly.  Well, I'm sure it's not perfect, but what is? The sound and the vibe are fluid and engaging. The Geek Out's kept me glued to my MacBook for hours, browsing and listening to music I haven't spun in years. That's the mark of a great stereo amp/DAC: keeping me glued to the music. That makes it worth every penny to me, and I think I'm still far from breaking this badboy in!  
  
 To be continued...
  
 .


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## yungyaw

Thanks for the impression of Geek Out 1000! Many people have been waiting to read some reviews and impressions of it while waiting for their units to arrive. I'm one of them.
  
 Now I am really looking forward to receive mine! 
  
 Damn! Red really looks quite sexy! I should have get me one of those. I ordered Silver.


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## georgelai57

Eerie coincidental karma Michael. As I'm reading your post #1, my tweet that you favorited flashed across my screen.


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## mikemercer

I'm still listening - And you should be excited! The red is cool - but I'm sure the silver will be a really cool finish as well.

It runs warmer than the other USB-stick style amp/DACs - but it's far more dynamic too.


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## mikemercer

georgelai57 said:


> Eerie coincidental karma Michael. As I'm reading your post #1, my tweet that you favorited flashed across my screen.




Right on George!!


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## AxelCloris

Thanks for the impressions. Can't wait for mine to come in and start listening too. And that red looks gorgeous, glad that's the color I chose; it should easily convey the heat the class A amp inside puts out.


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## jaywillin

mr excitable !!
 yes sir that is you, and i can get pretty excitable myself !!
  
 i awaiting my super geek, and until i get mine, i'll be awaiting yours, and other impressions as i tremble and salivate with excitement !! (not too excited i hope!!)


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## 2jono

mikemercer said:


> I'm still listening - And you should be excited! The red is cool - but I'm sure the silver will be a really cool finish as well.
> 
> It runs warmer than the other USB-stick style amp/DACs - but it's far more dynamic too.


 

 Yes i have noticed my Silver 1000 Geek Out does heat up when providing Superb Dynamic Sound
  
 I knew something was special when i first connected the Geek 1000 with Audio Technica CK10  and Yes ..  along with precision i also had Warmth and Soundstage .. First time that has happened .. Perfect !!
  
 Listening to Andy Zaltzman on Cricinfo sounds so good even )
  
 USB Audio just gets better .


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## mikemercer

axelcloris said:


> Thanks for the impressions. Can't wait for mine to come in and start listening too. And that red looks gorgeous, glad that's the color I chose; it should easily convey the heat the class A amp inside puts out.




Congrats in advance! I hope you're as happy with the unit as I am so far! And the red is slick. The 1000 takes this style USB amp/DAC to the next level!

!





jaywillin said:


> mr excitable !!
> yes sir that is you, and i can get pretty excitable myself !!
> 
> i awaiting my super geek, and until i get mine, i'll be awaiting yours, and other impressions as i tremble and salivate with excitement !! (not too excited i hope!!)




Think you're gonna love it Jay!



2jono said:


> Yes i have noticed my Silver 1000 Geek Out does heat up when providing Superb Dynamic Sound
> 
> I knew something was special when i first connected the Geek 1000 with Audio Technica CK10  and Yes ..  along with precision i also had Warmth and Soundstage .. First time that has happened .. Perfect !!
> 
> ...




I bet the 1000 and the Audio Technica CK10 was a killer sonic pairing!! You inspired me to try it w/ my Audio Technica ATH-900X!!


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## FlySweep

Any issues using highly sensitive IEMs/CIEMs with the Geek Out 1000? Namely, is there ample play with the volume control? or does it get too loud, too quickly?


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## jaywillin

oh no, i just realized i posted in the geek 1000 thread, and alas, i'm just a lowly geek of 720, i don't quite measure up !


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## 2jono

flysweep said:


> Any issues using highly sensitive IEMs/CIEMs with the Geek Out 1000? Namely, is there ample play with the volume control? or does it get too loud, too quickly?


 

 It can start to loud if you insert IEM before connecting Geek 1000 to music
  
 Seems almost infinite volume range with smallest adjustments possible and volume increases and decreases slowly
  
 But this Geek 1000 has Power , so handle with care )
  
 Insert your IEMs last and your good to go , without a sudden inner ear explosion !


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## AxelCloris

2jono said:


> It can start to loud if you insert IEM before connecting Geek 1000 to music
> 
> Seems almost infinite volume range with smallest adjustments possible and volume increases and decreases slowly
> 
> ...


 
  
 So as long as we don't have the IEM in our ears when we start up the music, we should be good? That's very promising. I was worried the 1000 may be too much for my customs, but now it seems I may have been concerned for nothing.


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## longbowbbs

I am patiently waiting for mine,  Mike.....Are you going to bring it to the SoCal meet today?


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## Audio Addict

I look forward to getting mine


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## nigel801

I too impatiently looking at the progress of Geek Pulse which is now slated for August/September release and Geek out is having issues with QCs, I hope they will not screw things even more by launching Geek Aria.


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## mikemercer

longbowbbs said:


> I am patiently waiting for mine,  Mike.....Are you going to bring it to the SoCal meet today?


 
 hey longbowbbs.
  
 I WISH!
  
 My wife is in really bad shape and needs surgery,
 so I won't be at the LA Meet and I'm really depressed over that
 but Alexandra needs me around for this MESS.  Think positive for us!!
  
 Have FUN - 


axelcloris said:


> So as long as we don't have the IEM in our ears when we start up the music, we should be good? That's very promising. I was worried the 1000 may be too much for my customs, but now it seems I may have been concerned for nothing.


 
 Honestly I haven't tried it w/ IEMs yet!!!!
 But I can only imagine the volume KILLING YOU if you're not careful!
  
 One of the only gripes I have with it is:
  
 When I change my MacBook's gain level the Geek Out's gain resets back to pegged/10
 right away, meaning:
  
If I have the MacBook gain set to 75%, and I wanna experiment to see where the best sounding settings are,
(MacBook 75%, adjust Geek Out output from there, or MacBook 100%, adjust Geek Out output from there) it
sets the Geek Out's output back to 10 every time you make an adjustment to the MacBook's gain. So if you had IEMs
in, well, you just gotta be careful!!!!
  
not sure why its set up that way.
  
I'll give my IEMs a shot with it today!!
  

  
 I love having the gain on the Geek Out - just hate that it resets the Geek Outs gain back to 10
 whenever you make a change on the MacBook's gain - - when you use the other USB stick-type amp/DACs
 you get in the habit of using the MacBooks volume.
  
 Breakin' the habit now!!!!
  
 and it still sounds TERRIFIC.


audio addict said:


> I look forward to getting mine


 
 you have good reason for the anticipation!!


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## mikemercer

nigel801 said:


> I too impatiently looking at the progress of Geek Pulse which is now slated for August/September release and Geek out is having issues with QCs, I hope they will not screw things even more by launching Geek Aria.


 
 Geek Out's having QC issues?
  
 That sucks. I haven't had any issues with mine - thankfully!!
  
 and I fell asleep w/ my MacBook Pro on my lap last night...
 Woke up with the laptop at my feet in front of the couch, my Audeze LCD-X's on the floor,
 and the Geek Out, with the USB bent!!!!!  I was SO pissed.
  
 But it still works, and no noise or any other issues!!


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## AxelCloris

mikemercer said:


> Honestly I haven't tried it w/ IEMs yet!!!!
> But I can only imagine the volume KILLING YOU if you're not careful!
> 
> One of the only gripes I have with it is:
> ...


 
  
 Hmm, yeah that does sound like I'll end up slamming my ears with the Geek Out. I'm used to reaching for the volume control on the Macbook to adjust, so I can see myself easily blasting my ear drums accidentally a few times. It sounds like the ideal situation would be to have the GO remember the current gain settings when the Macbook volume is changed. But now that I think about it, I seem to remember reading something on the LH Labs forums that it isn't possible with their implementation.
  


mikemercer said:


> Geek Out's having QC issues?
> 
> That sucks. I haven't had any issues with mine - thankfully!!
> 
> ...


 
  
 They had an issue with the manufacturing partners. A big chunk of their most recent batch had a resistor fault and it caused one of the channels to have reduced volume when the awesomifier was enabled. They said it should only set them back a day to get that sorted.


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## mikemercer

axelcloris said:


> Hmm, yeah that does sound like I'll end up slamming my ears with the Geek Out. I'm used to reaching for the volume control on the Macbook to adjust, so I can see myself easily blasting my ear drums accidentally a few times. It sounds like the ideal situation would be to have the GO remember the current gain settings when the Macbook volume is changed. But now that I think about it, I seem to remember reading something on the LH Labs forums that it isn't possible with their implementation.
> 
> 
> They had an issue with the manufacturing partners. A big chunk of their most recent batch had a resistor fault and it caused one of the channels to have reduced volume when the awesomifier was enabled. They said it should only set them back a day to get that sorted.


 
 Really - 
  
 Thank God I don't have any channel issues!!!!
  
 Because this thing is a BEAST when it comes to power.
 I just gave it a shot again (yeah, pulled an all-nighter, except the passing out and waking up to my laptop and headphones on the floor incident)
 w/ my LCD-3's and that makes for a glorious pairing!! I jumped right to the LCD-X last night for the majority of my listening - sometimes I forget
 now how much I enjoy the LCD-3 - I get in the habit of grabbin' the latest LCD's. But I LOVE my LCD-3's, and it makes for a SICK combo w/ the 
 Geek Out EM/1000. The lower midrange is so liquid and dimensional at the same time (liquid could mean a little thick I suppose, but I'm referring
 to the ripple-effect here) while the highs are beautifully extended. Radiohead's _King of Limbs_ had me completely transfixed - I lost any sense of time...
 Next thing you know it's 10AM and I'm wondering where the night went!
  
 I remember being impressed w/ the HRT microStreamer - how it could drive my LCD-3 well enough for me to really enjoy that surprise combo.
 But it makes sense that things would progress - the Geek Out 1000 - which, after looking at the paperwork, I realized is called:
  
_*Geek Out EM*_
  
 drives the LCD-3s with plenty of headroom! The amp/DAC is also resolving enough that I heard significant changes when I switched out my cables.
 I ended up preferring the Double Helix Cable - I have to get the exact model of this cable from Peter at Double Helix.


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## eliwankenobi

So how does it sound with the awesomifier turned ON?
  
 Does it give you an "out of head/speakers in a room" feeling?


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## sling5s

How does it compare to Dragonfly, HRT Microstreamer and Meridian Explorer?   As far as dac and amp?
 It is neutral warm or neutral bright?


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## mikemercer

eliwankenobi said:


> So how does it sound with the awesomifier turned ON?
> 
> Does it give you an "out of head/speakers in a room" feeling?


 
 Admittedly I gotta check out how to engage the awesomeifier/3D imaging!!
 I'm gonna do that today!! I wanted to be sure I dug the final product as much as the proto!!!
 I'll report back ASAP on that
  
  


sling5s said:


> How does it compare to Dragonfly, HRT Microstreamer and Meridian Explorer?   As far as dac and amp?
> It is neutral warm or neutral bright?


 
 I've only done an A/B w/ the HRT microStreamer and Dragonfly at this point (and I LOVE the microStreamer - was lucky enough
 to get the review scoop on that magic lil' aluminum brick - also dig the Dragonfly, but preferred the microStreamer as I found it more 
 dynamic - with a more soulful reproduction of the music) - AND:
  
 Compared to the Dragonfly (1st generation) the Geek Out ED has far more dynamic range, weight, and overall gestalt. The Dragonfly has
 always impressed me with its resolving capabilities - its finesse, but the Geek Out brings out even more of that magic quality of the music.
 It's like upgrading your line-stage and stereo amplifier in a two-channel in-room rig. You get more slam, more detail, and greater dynamic range
 and separation.
  
 Compared to the microStreamer - the MS faired better in the resolution dept. NOT better than the Geek Out ED, but better than the Dragonfly IMO.
 The microStreamer has a wonderfully engaging quality about it. That doesn't change, nor get lost when comparing it to the Geek Out, but the Geek Out
 edges it out in that area. It's closer - but the Geek Out just has more oomph - more headroom and because its clean and detailed it drags me even deeper 
 into the music. Spinning Radiohead's_ Kid A _was a magnificent experience w/ the Geek Out & Audeze LCD-XC's. It reminded me of hearing the record for the
 first time - and that's a glorious memory for me! The microStreamer captured the magic of the recording, but the Geek Out did so as well - and has a more all-
 encompassing quality about it. It behaves like a little monster amplifier - powerful and controlled but with plenty of air and dimensionality.
  
 It sounded as I suspected compared to these two: Like the natural progression of things. It's presentation is bigger, deeper, wider and its tonality has more 
 character. 
  
 I lent my Explorer to a buddy so I won't have that for a comparison for awhile
 - but I know the Explorer well and I suspect my findings will be similar.


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## AxelCloris

mikemercer said:


> Admittedly I gotta check out how to engage the awesomeifier/3D imaging!!
> I'm gonna do that today!! I wanted to be sure I dug the final product as much as the proto!!!
> I'll report back ASAP on that


 
  
 Hold down both volume buttons simultaneously. An LED should change color to let you know it's on.


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## mikemercer

axelcloris said:


> Hold down both volume buttons simultaneously. An LED should change color to let you know it's on.


 
 THANX BROTHA!!
  
 grabbin the Geek Out right now and gonna try it.
  
 I gotta run some errands for the wifey - but psyched to check it out!
 will report back ASAP
  
 also found that my Grado 325i's are also a great pairing in the meantime...


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## mikemercer

eliwankenobi said:


> So how does it sound with the awesomifier turned ON?
> 
> Does it give you an "out of head/speakers in a room" feeling?


 
  
 OK
  
 So, like other "3D imaging" type circuits on amp/DACs I've heard: When I engage the Awesomifier I hear an immediate
 drop in dB levels. It's not a drastic drop, but it's certainly noticeable. Perhaps a more accurate way to describe it would be that the sound pulls back a bit.
 I say that because when I disengage the Awesomifier the music jumps at me - like you're instantly dropping the noise-floor or gaining a dB or two in a system
 by clicking a dip switch that gives you a lil' boost. So the overall dynamic punch suffers a touch
  
 - but the only similar circuits I've heard that don't take away from the products overall punch is the 3D Imaging switch on the iFi iCAN and the cross-feed on the McIntosh 
MHA-100 - Both of these gave me deeper and wider soundstages without sacrificing the overall punch of the system.
  
 Like I said: It's not a huge difference/drop in gain and dynamics - so I don't feel like I'm really losing much, but I can't help but notice it when engaging and disengaging the
 feature.

  
 I can definitely hear a widening of the soundstage as well as deeper dimensionality (meaning the sense of air and spaciousness between instruments/triggered sounds). 
 The stage acquires this roundness to the sound. Almost like the Geek Out approximates the effects a concert hall would have on the acoustics. When I typed that I instantly
 thought of those terrible "Concert Hall" EQ presets on stereo gear in the 80's. This is NOT what I'm trying to describe 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 !
 The sound-stage expands 360 degrees outward. I enjoyed this setting immensely when rockin' ambient and electronic albums like Shlohmo's _Camping EP _and Lorn's _Ask The Dust_.
 Sounds emanate from the same direction as their original origins - but they either start further back or more to the side, etc. The spacial properties of the stage changed, and whether or
 not I enjoyed the effect depended greatly on the source material.
  
 I prefer the sound of the Geek Out EM without the Awesomifier engaged when it came to acoustic music happening in real time and space.
 But, when it came to experimental music, I enjoyed the effects of the Awesomifier. It brought another level of depth of field.
  
 Still experimenting, but thus far I'd say Light Harmonic has a winner in the Geek Out EM.
 I only hope the QC issues mentioned earlier in this thread have been sorted out. It would be a real shame for them to make such a splash with the campaigns and not make sure EVERY unit
 leaving the door works like this one!!!! They've got a boatload of devotees out there. They can either become the companies best marketers, or worst enemies.
  
 If they keep up the QC  - as I haven't had any issues - they should do really well with the Geek series!
  
 still to be continued...


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## AxelCloris

mikemercer said:


> OK
> 
> So, like other "3D imaging" type circuits on amp/DACs I've heard: When I engage the Awesomifier I hear an immediate
> drop in dB levels. It's not a drastic drop, but it's certainly noticeable. Perhaps a more accurate way to describe it would be that the sound pulls back a bit.
> ...


 
  
 More comparisons to the iCan would be appreciated, as that's something I've heard and not long ago. The part in bold is exactly how I felt about the crossfeed on the iCan, amazing with Random Access Memories but unnecessary for jazz and folk music. As I heard with the iCan, does enabling the awesomifier pull back a bit of the bass? Whenever I had the crossfeed enabled on the iCan I had the bass boost on a notch or two to compensate and bring back the full body while keeping the improved separation.
  
 You mentioned that you bent the USB connector, from the image it looks like you may have resolved that?


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## mikemercer

axelcloris said:


> More comparisons to the iCan would be appreciated, as that's something I've heard and not long ago. The part in bold is exactly how I felt about the crossfeed on the iCan, amazing with Random Access Memories but unnecessary for jazz and folk music. As I heard with the iCan, does enabling the awesomifier pull back a bit of the bass? Whenever I had the crossfeed enabled on the iCan I had the bass boost on a notch or two to compensate and bring back the full body while keeping the improved separation.
> 
> You mentioned that you bent the USB connector, from the image it looks like you may have resolved that?


 
 I did the same exact thing on the iCAN!!
 Though I'm very impressed with their implementation of the 3D Imaging circuit.
  
 Yes the bass loses some impact (and seemingly a touch of gain) when the Awesomifier is engaged.
  
 YES - thank God I managed to bend the USB end back and the unit still works FINE!
 I lucked out there I think. I don't even remember passing out (been a LONG few weeks w/ my wifey sick and needing surgery)
 but when I woke up with my MacBook Pro on the floor and my LCD-X's there as well I freaked out.
  
 I found the Geek Out EM had taken the brunt of the fall. I must've fallen asleep and moved, knockin the laptop over and the
 headphones followed!! I think that speaks to its build quality - at least it passed this fall test!
  
 still rockin though!


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## miceblue

mikemercer said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > I am patiently waiting for mine,  Mike.....Are you going to bring it to the SoCal meet today?
> ...



You mean volume level, right? Gain is a set property of the op-amp circuitry, volume is a function of the voltage and current differences. I'm pretty certain headphone amps don't have dozens and dozens of individual amp circuits to control the volume through different gain levels. XD

How warm does the Geek Out get? Uncomfortable to touch? As hot as the iPhone 4S on maximum brightness and playing a video?


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## Supperconductor

Mike,
  
 Which software player are you using? I'm specifically curious if Direct/Integer mode is supported in Audirvana. Also have you tried any native DSD content?
  
 Thanks for all the informative posts!


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## georgelai57

Enough already. 

Just kidding. Can't wait for my 1000, the Pulse plus an ordinary Geek (I don't even know what this is called anymore). 

Keep the reviews coming, Mike and best wishes for your wife's surgery.


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## mikemercer

georgelai57 said:


> Enough already.
> 
> Just kidding. Can't wait for my 1000, the Pulse plus an ordinary Geek (I don't even know what this is called anymore).
> 
> Keep the reviews coming, Mike and best wishes for your wife's surgery.


 
 Thanks George!!
  
 I just finished my review for Part-Time Audiophile!!
 This lil thing inspired me - and its only getting better.
  
 I've been running signal through it non-stop for a few days now.
  
 For me, one of the marks of a solid amp/DAC is: does it translate the emotive power of the music, as well as the sonics,
 across various headphones - and thus far I've enjoyed the Geek Out EM with:
  
 Audeze LCD-3, X, and XC
 Bang and Olufsen H6's
 Grado 325i's
 Mr. Speakers Alpha Dogs
 Sennheiser Momentums


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## georgelai57

What's the final names for the 3 Geek Outs, Mike Mercer? I'm confused though happy the most powerful one is no longer called a Super Duper!


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## mikemercer

georgelai57 said:


> What's the final names for the 3 Geek Outs, Mike Mercer? I'm confused though happy the most powerful one is no longer called a Super Duper!


 
 This is what I have on this paper that came w/ the Geek Out EM (PR and a note from them):
  
_*Geek Out*_: 450mW
_*Geek Out M*_: 720mW
_*Geek out EM*_: 1000mW


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## georgelai57

mikemercer said:


> This is what I have on this paper that came w/ the Geek Out EM (PR and a note from them):
> 
> _*Geek Out*_: 450mW
> _*Geek Out M*_: 720mW
> _*Geek out EM*_: 1000mW



That's confusing as I recall something about Geek420, Geek Nano, etc and what does the M and EM denote? No MM (M.Mercer) variant?


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## nicolo

Hi Mike,
  
 Can you give a more detailed impression about how the Geek out sounds with the LCD-X. For the LCD-X you generally need to have a resolving amp like the Mjolnir to make it sound at it's best, due to the LCD-X treble extension being slightly south of neutral compared to the HD-800. Since Larry prefers an analog-like sound signature, which would be perfect for the HD-800, but wouldn't make the LCD-X really _sing_.
  
 If you agree with that, i probably will get the Hifiman HE-560 in a couple of months as i think it will match perfectly.


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## AxelCloris

georgelai57 said:


> What's the final names for the 3 Geek Outs, Mike Mercer? I'm confused though happy the most powerful one is no longer called a Super Duper!


 
  
 On their forums, LH Labs has taken to calling them by their output: Geek Out 450, 720 and 1000. They've dropped the "super-duper" and the "EM" when talking about the GO. Definitely confusing, and interesting to see the "EM" made it into the product documents.


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## mikemercer

nicolo said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> Can you give a more detailed impression about how the Geek out sounds with the LCD-X. For the LCD-X you generally need to have a resolving amp like the Mjolnir to make it sound at it's best, due to the LCD-X treble extension being slightly south of neutral compared to the HD-800. Since Larry prefers an analog-like sound signature, which would be perfect for the HD-800, but wouldn't make the LCD-X really _sing_.
> 
> If you agree with that, i probably will get the Hifiman HE-560 in a couple of months as i think it will match perfectly.


 
 NO problem @nicolo!!
  
 I love my LCD-X, and listen to it often w/ many different amps - from the Cavalli Audio Liquid Gold to my E.A.R HP4, ALO Studio Six, Schiit Vali, or some of my favorite portables like my CEntrance HiFi-M8 or ALO International.  I agree that you need a resolving amplifier to truly make the X SING - and the Geek Out EM actually does a surprisingly bang-up job with em!  There's a bit of magic in that combo actually - reminiscent (to me) of the time I discovered what a surprisingly sweet-sounding combination the HRT microStreamer and LCD-3 made!  I didn't expect anything from that rig (as the microStreamer, on paper, didn't have the power to make the 3 come alive) - I just tried it during my review process.  But I ended up loving it!
  
The advantage, as I'm sure you know, with the LCD-X (and XC) is that it's far more efficient than the LCD-2 and 3, but follows the Audeze tradition with regards to its outstanding resolution capabilities.  The reason you need a resolving amplifier for the X is that it's gonna show you what your amp is doing, and if that means exposing flaws that's just part of the package - so the old school recording engineering phrase: crap in - crap out, applies here! It's a good thing Light Harmonic bestowed some of their Da Vinci DAC magic into the Geek Out!
  
 Amarra's the source via my MacBook Pro Retina SSD drive and Audeze LCD-X cans as requested:
  
 Spinning Radiohead's "Everything In It's Right Place" - the cascading synths are liquid-like in their presentation. I've heard many systems mask this captivating quality of this recording, but when its right I often describe this sounding like an audible pond - a stone dropping in the water and the ripples flow with texture you can practically reach out and touch. The sound is rich and colorful, open and airy. Thom Yorke's vocals hover, panning right to left, left to right. The transient attack and movement of the various samples are sublimely executed. I love this track. It's one of my favorite system tests, as it often sounds congested on systems with inadequate resolution. No such worry here. The soundstage is wide and deep with superb dimensionality. This is a fantastic demo track for this combination. The sound is more akin to a reference-level desktop rig than a small USB DAC/amp.  Lemme put it this way: I'm glad you asked, as I'm loving this right now!
  
 Moving onto something acoustic and sparse: I chose Ani DiFranco's "Hearse" off _Which Side Are You On? _This recording is detailed and wide-open. The guitar and drums have a wonderfully natural decay - they trail off with an analogous quality that I rarely hear in the digital domain. The recording sounds lifelike, it's textural and warm-bodied. Her vocals are emotively charged and her guitar strumming is so dimensional there's no need to engage the Geek Out's Awesomifier. As a matter of fact when I engage it I lose the gestalt of the music. Without it, the sound is engaging and dynamic.
  
 Trying one of my favorite ear-candy tracks: The-Drum's "Sirens" off their _Contact_ album (experimental electronic - with a touch of found sounds that gives the music its soul - I reviewed this record for Part-Time Audiophile and if this genre is of interest to you I highly recommend it) the sound is wildly dynamic and gripping. Synth pads slam with precision and authority. Other spacey elements soar, their echoing effects ping back-n-forth from front to back, left to right and right to left. The transient speed here is wicked - making for an engrossing listening experience. Overall this is the most fun I've had with the Geek Out! I can't help it but hit repeat over and over again.
  
 The Geek Out and Audeze LCD-X is my favorite pairing thus far in my evaluation of the Geek, right behind my LCD-3's and XC's. The sound is coherent and window-like (or "transparent" as we all say - it's just that the word has come to represent so many things in hi-fi). It's a wonderfully engaging little system. I could listen for hours - and I probably will! The midrange is rich and silky, the low end extended and powerful. The highs are also extended but not sharp or overbearing. Sometimes uber-resolving systems have a tendency to shout at you if their not well-controlled. That's not the case here. The sound is balanced from top to bottom. I'm pumped you asked me to give this another listen, as I'm working on my review of the Geek Out for Part-Time Audiophile. This combo has inspired me.
  
 That maybe the best compliment I can pay it. I can't find anything to gripe about. And as a matter of fact - I'm not going to take these off!
 Back to listening.
  
 I hope that gives you a glimpse of how much I'm enjoying this pairing and why.
 If you have any other request please feel free to share! You got me glued to my music!


----------



## mikemercer

axelcloris said:


> On their forums, LH Labs has taken to calling them by their output: Geek Out 450, 720 and 1000. They've dropped the "super-duper" and the "EM" when talking about the GO. Definitely confusing, and interesting to see the "EM" made it into the product documents.


 
 I'm glad you shared this!
 I changed the title of the thread - indicating both "EM" and 1000.


----------



## Larry Ho

Hi, Michael
  
 Thank you so much for your faster-then-everyone impression and review of Geek Out.  I really enjoy reading these.
  
 For the QC, I would like to clarify one confusion that someone else wrote in this thread.  Geek Out doesn't have the QC issue. Instead, because we insist the total quality control protocol on EACH unit we sent out. So it took longer than usual consumer electronics product testing time. But it worth every second.
  
 And I'm using Geek Out 1000 with LCX from time to time. It sounds amazing. And just like you, I prefer 3D on with some type of music, and 3D off with the others. 
 The 3D awesomifier's interaction with original recording spacial signal will create a long of interesting results. Sometimes I feel I'm listening to a different mastering album.
  
 Cheers,


----------



## mikemercer

larry ho said:


> Hi, Michael
> 
> Thank you so much for your faster-then-everyone impression and review of Geek Out.  I really enjoy reading these.
> 
> ...


 
 Hey Larry!
  
 Thanks for being a part of the Impression and Appreciation Thread!
 It's nice to have the designer/manufacturer on-board for these conversational threads - Kevin Halverson got into it over at the HRT microStreamer thread we started and he enjoys interacting directly with his users.
  
 I just submitted a full review of the Geek Out 1000 to Scot at Part-Time Audiophile
 to be published SOON!! 
  
 We'll also be tackling a multi-viewpoint review at Audio360.org (I'm going to lend my unit out for that).


----------



## georgelai57

From Mike Mercer's earlier post "I love having the gain on the Geek Out - just hate that it resets the Geek Outs gain back to 10
whenever you make a change on the MacBook's gain - - when you use the other USB stick-type amp/DACs
you get in the habit of using the MacBooks volume."

To be sure I understand you correctly, it is advisable especially with IEMs on loud volumes, to use the Geek Out to adjust gain/volume rather than the Mac. Right?

Would this be something to be corrected via a Firmware update, Larry Ho?


----------



## nicolo

*First: I was just going through this thread and read about your better half. Best wishes to both of you and hope that she gets well soon.*
  
 As for the review of the Geek Out + LCD-X combo, just WOW!! Thanks Mike
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 That was a really great and informative read. I was worried about the Geek Out not matching well with the LCD-X as i had sold of my Mjolnir a couple of months back. Now eagerly awaiting both the Geek Out and upgraded Pulse X.
  
 By the way, are you using a custom cable for the LCD-X? Which one is it? I was thinking of getting a Toxic Silver Widow for it. Hopefully makes for a good pairing with the Geek Out/Pulse X.
  
 I also have the iBasso DX100 and have used it with the LCD-X though i don't like that combo at all, as it sounds somewhat hollow and flat. This surprised me quite a bit as i thought that the airy and spacious nature of the DX100 would pair well with the LCD-X, while the analog-like sound of the Geek Out would sound veiled with it. Shows that matching equipment is much harder than just looking at spec sheets or blogs.
  
 Since the DX100 has the ESS 9108 desktop version and the Geek Out the mobile version of it (9018K2M), it's going to make for pretty interesting comparisons with the Geek Out and fully upgraded Geek Pulse X once i get them. Based on your reaction to the Geek Out, implementation and experience (Larry's DaVinci DAC and USB standards experience) seems to have made a far bigger impact than i expected, as i don't think that there's a big difference in the ESS 9018's desktop and mobile versions performance in terms of 2 channel sound (other than the desktop version being 8 channel and the mobile version being 2 channel of course)
  
  
 Quote:


mikemercer said:


> NO problem @nicolo!!
> 
> I love my LCD-X, and listen to it often w/ many different amps - from the Cavalli Audio Liquid Gold to my E.A.R HP4, ALO Studio Six, Schiit Vali, or some of my favorite portables like my CEntrance HiFi-M8 or ALO International.  I agree that you need a resolving amplifier to truly make the X SING - and the Geek Out EM actually does a surprisingly bang-up job with em!  There's a bit of magic in that combo actually - reminiscent (to me) of the time I discovered what a surprisingly sweet-sounding combination the HRT microStreamer and LCD-3 made!  I didn't expect anything from that rig (as the microStreamer, on paper, didn't have the power to make the 3 come alive) - I just tried it during my review process.  But I ended up loving it!
> 
> ...


----------



## mikemercer

nicolo said:


>


 
*"First: I was just going through this thread and read about your better half. Best wishes to both of you and hope that she gets well soon."*
  
*Thanks for this! I wholly appreciate the kind words. That's why my sleeping habits (or lack thereof) have been completely outta wack these last couple of weeks!*
  
 "As for the review of the Geek Out + LCD-X combo, just WOW!! Thanks Mike
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That was a really great and informative read. I was worried about the Geek Out not matching well with the LCD-X as i had sold of my Mjolnir a couple of months back. Now eagerly awaiting both the Geek Out and upgraded Pulse X.
  
 By the way, are you using a custom cable for the LCD-X? Which one is it? I was thinking of getting a Toxic Silver Widow for it. Hopefully makes for a good pairing with the Geek Out/Pulse X.
  
 I also have the iBasso DX100 and have used it with the LCD-X though i don't like that combo at all, as it sounds somewhat hollow and flat. This surprised me quite a bit as i thought that the airy and spacious nature of the DX100 would pair well with the LCD-X, while the analog-like sound of the Geek Out would sound veiled with it. Shows that matching equipment is much harder than just looking at spec sheets or blogs.
  
 Since the DX100 has the ESS 9108 desktop version and the Geek Out the mobile version of it (9018K2M), it's going to make for pretty interesting comparisons with the Geek Out and fully upgraded Geek Pulse X once i get them. Based on your reaction to the Geek Out, implementation and experience (Larry's DaVinci DAC and USB standards experience) seems to have made a far bigger impact than i expected, as i don't think that there's a big difference in the ESS 9018's desktop and mobile versions performance in terms of 2 channel sound (other than the desktop version being 8 channel and the mobile version being 2 channel of course)"
  
_*My current favorite cables for the LCD-X are Double Helix Cables:*_
  
_*His (Peter Bradstock at Double Helix Cables) Complement2 cable for use w/ my LCD-X & top reference desktop rigs - E.A.R HP4, ALO Studio Six, Cavalli Audio Liquid Gold (using other Double Helix custom balanced cables for the LAu right now)*_
  
_*and this other Double Helix Cable for use with things like the Geek Out, CEntrance HiFi-M8, etc. (I just wrote Peter and asked for the model - as this cable is outrageously resolute):*_

  
*I can't give Peter's cables a higher recommendation!*
  
*Before discovering his cables my personal favorites were Moon Audio's Silver Dragon (still love and use Silver Dragon - as they're also very resolving and the cable has an adapter system,*
*so I'm never worried about having the right termination) and the Cardas Clear.*
  
*But I've been using the Double Helix on the Geek Out - tried other cables, but the Double Helix just out-shines em' hands down*


----------



## nicolo

Which Double Helix are you referring to as "_other_"?
  
 Quote:


> _*and this other Double Helix Cable for use with things like the Geek Out, CEntrance HiFi-M8, etc. (I just wrote Peter and asked for the model - as this cable is outrageously resolute):*_
> 
> 
> *I can't give Peter's cables a higher recommendation!*
> ...


----------



## BaTou069

Can't wait for my Geek Out720. I don't have a Can that need more power, I guess this will be more then enough for Nad HP50, He-400 and Alessandro MS1


----------



## mikemercer

nicolo said:


> Which Double Helix are you referring to as "_other_"?


 
  
 The litz/braided ones in those photos.
 The one here:

  
 I dropped Peter at Double Helix an FB message to find out the name/mode of that cable.
 I bought my Complement2 shortly after receiving it - and I'm going to buy these as well,
 but I forget the model.
  
 I'll get the model intel for you. You can, should you desire, contact Peter at Double Helix Cables and he
 knows which cables I use for my rigs. He's also a great guy. He's not pushy, very laid-back 
 but knows his cable science as well as some of best and brightest I've met in the high end audio
 community!


----------



## mikemercer

batou069 said:


> Can't wait for my Geek Out720. I don't have a Can that need more power, I guess this will be more then enough for Nad HP50, He-400 and Alessandro MS1


 
 Yeah that's plenty of juice for your needs!
  
 And you never know. Sometimes things form a strange synergy despite the numbers on a piece of paper. The astonishing result of trying my Audeze LCD-3 with the HRT microStreamer (review and thread HERE) is a good example of that! I loved, and still love the microStreamer, but technically the lil' amp/DAC didn't have the juice to drive the planar magnetics. That ended up being bulls--- as far as I was concerned!! Sure, it didn't drive them to their full potential, but it made for a very sweet-sounding pairing. I don't blast my ears out all the time anyway (I try not to, but its too much fun) - so the levels achieved were great for my taste! 

  
 You never know what kind of crazy results you can bring about without experimenting!
  
 One of the cool things about the Geek Out 1000 is that I've been having fun with a few different
 headphones - and it does its job well with all of em - its an amp/DAC that isn't finicky, which is a great thing.
 
  
 and, after pullin' an all-nighter - this is the best way to cap it off!
 Watchin the sun come up, rockin' my LCD-X via the Geek Out 1000, with MOG as the source!!
 Double Helix Cables on the cans


----------



## BaTou069

mikemercer said:


> Yeah that's plenty of juice for your needs!


 
  
 I guess it's too much juice for Shure SE846, not much volume to play with?


----------



## nicolo

batou069 said:


> I guess it's too much juice for Shure SE846, not much volume to play with?


 
 Way too much power for the Shures and the NAD. Maybe too much for the Alessandro too. The Geek 450 would be ideal for these.
  
 The HE-400 would of course be perfect with the Geek 720. To calculate power requirements for headphones, go to the following link to find out:
  
 http://www.headphone-amplifier.com/calculator.htm
  
 Generally anything approaching 110db SPL is way overkill. For example, the HE-400 impedance is 38ohms, the efficiency 92db, and the Geek Out 720 is 720mW.
 After pressing the calculate button, the SPL value is 103DB, which is pretty high. Please note planar magnetic cans are very current hungry. The calculation is for dynamic driver HPs only like the Shures, Sennheissers' etc. Hope this helps.


----------



## BaTou069

nicolo said:


> Way too much power for the Shures and the NAD. Maybe too much for the Alessandro too. The Geek 450 would be ideal for these.
> 
> The HE-400 would of course be perfect with the Geek 720. To calculate power requirements for headphones, go to the following link to find out:
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hey thanks
 If i do the same calculations for the Shure for example. 9ohm impedance and 114 efficiency i get 131.6 db, this should hurt.
 But when exactly do I get this db? From Volume 1? Shouldn't I be able to listen to low volumes and not getting such high dbs?


----------



## nicolo

batou069 said:


> Hey thanks
> If i do the same calculations for the Shure for example. 9ohm impedance and 114 efficiency i get 131.6 db, this should hurt.
> But when exactly do I get this db? From Volume 1? Shouldn't I be able to listen to low volumes and not getting such high dbs?


 
  
 That definitely would blow your eardrums. Man, 131 db SPL is freaking insane!!!
  
  You will probably need to increase the volume very slowly, probably between 30%-40% of the volume range to listen at a reasonable volume. As Mike himself mentioned in this thread, you need to plug the Geek in and check that the gain/volume is set to low before plugging in IEMs/headphones each time . In your case it could be argued that due to it's efficiency, the Shures should be treated as IEMs.


----------



## miceblue

miceblue said:


> How warm does the Geek Out get? Uncomfortable to touch? As hot as the iPhone 4S on maximum brightness and playing a video?



Anyone?


----------



## mtruong34

"Watchin the sun come up, rockin' my LCD-X via the Geek Out 1000, with MOG as the source!!
Double Helix Cables on the cans"

Is that MOG? Looks more like Spotify. Which I use and love.


----------



## BaTou069

nicolo said:


> .... In your case it could be argued that due to it's efficiency, the Shures should be treated as IEMs.


 
  
 They are IEMs 


mtruong34 said:


> "Watchin the sun come up, rockin' my LCD-X via the Geek Out 1000, with MOG as the source!!
> Double Helix Cables on the cans"
> 
> Is that MOG? Looks more like Spotify. Which I use and love.


 
  
 I understand that services like MOG or Spotify are MP3s, how is it listening to this with such high end cans like the LCD-X?


----------



## AxelCloris

batou069 said:


> I understand that services like MOG or Spotify are MP3s, how is it listening to this with such high end cans like the LCD-X?


 
  
 MOG and Spotify can stream up 320 kbps, where standard MP3s are typically 128 kbps.


----------



## BaTou069

axelcloris said:


> MOG and Spotify can stream up 320 kbps, where standard MP3s are typically 128 kbps.


 
 I know, all I'm just asking is if you feel (hear) that these are lossy files, especially with such high end cans like LCDs


----------



## AxelCloris

batou069 said:


> I know, all I'm just asking is if you feel (hear) that these are lossy files, especially with such high end cans like LCDs


 
  
 Oh, ok. I follow you now, sorry. With the right setup you can tell the difference between resolutions even with more inexpensive headphones. If your source is good, it'll make a nice high quality file shine. Even with my cheap A151 IEM, there's a noticeable difference between standard 128k, 192k, 320k and up. A high end headphone can enhance the differences.


----------



## grunter72

My super duper geek out is flying over the ocean.... I'm very excited to receive it


----------



## mikemercer

miceblue said:


> Anyone?


 
 the Geek Out 1000 gets really warm - but I wouldn't call it hot to the touch.
 I can grab it and keep a hold of it without wincing...
  
  


batou069 said:


> They are IEMs
> 
> I understand that services like MOG or Spotify are MP3s, how is it listening to this with such high end cans like the LCD-X?


 
 MOG and Spotify Premium stream at 320kbps - so I'm never rockin mp3 streams.
  
 MOG can sound terrific through the right DAC (in this case, the DAC in the Geek Out 1000 - which has a few character traits of its 
 BIG brotha - the Da Vinci DAC) and so can Spotify!!  Though MOG is more consistent in terms of its offerings at CD quality.
  
 The great thing about my Mytek and McIntosh D100 is that I see what sample and bit rates it locks in on.
 MOG always locks in at 24 or 16-bit/44.1kHz - Spotify occasionally drops when I got it hooked up to those DACs.
  
 But, overall - with the right DAC you'd be surprised how solid you can get it to sound!!
  
 It's pretty simple w/ the Geek Out 1000...

  
 now there I'm rockin Spotify - and its sounds great!
 Boards of Canada -_ Tomorrow's Harvest (my REVIEW at PFO) _soundin' open and airy,
 with dynamics and sweet tonalities


----------



## sling5s

mikemercer said:


> Admittedly I gotta check out how to engage the awesomeifier/3D imaging!!
> I'm gonna do that today!! I wanted to be sure I dug the final product as much as the proto!!!
> I'll report back ASAP on that
> 
> ...


 
  
 thank you mike


----------



## mikemercer

nicolo said:


> Which Double Helix are you referring to as "_other_"?


 
 Hey @nicolo !!
  
 I found out the intel on the Double Helix Cable that I've been rockin' w/ my Geek Out 1000 from Peter at Double Helix

  
 It's called the "Macromolecule Elite Fusion"
  
 I have 2: One terminated w/ 4-pin XLR, the other you see here, w/ 3.5mm
  
 Both are exquisitely resolving - and are, at the moment, my favorite go-to cables for the LCD-X,
 aside of these one-of-a-kind dual XLR cables he sent to me for my Liquid Gold:

  
 I HIGHLY recommend reaching out to Peter!
http://www.doublehelixcables.com/store/


----------



## mikemercer

sling5s said:


> thank you mike


 
 you're welcome!
 SO glad the impressions were OK for ya!


----------



## nicolo

Thanks Mike!! Will be getting this in a couple of months.
  
 Quote:


mikemercer said:


> Hey @nicolo !!
> 
> I found out the intel on the Double Helix Cable that I've been rockin' w/ my Geek Out 1000 from Peter at Double Helix
> 
> ...


----------



## jaywillin

mikemercer said:


> Hey @nicolo !!
> 
> I found out the intel on the Double Helix Cable that I've been rockin' w/ my Geek Out 1000 from Peter at Double Helix
> 
> ...


 

 already have mike, peter is fixing me up with a macromolecule cable, with a new wire  "synergy"  news to follow !


----------



## yungyaw

mikemercer said:


> the Geek Out 1000 gets really warm - but I wouldn't call it hot to the touch.
> I can grab it and keep a hold of it without wincing...
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 I notice that you put some support underneath the Geek Out. I wonder is the unit heavy or have significant weight? Have you try using it with the supplied slacker cable? Does it affect the sound quality of Geek Out?
  
 By the way, all the best to your wife and wish her a speedy recovery.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Mike, don't you have the "slacker" and use it instead?


----------



## mikemercer

jaywillin said:


> already have mike, peter is fixing me up with a macromolecule cable, with a new wire  "synergy"  news to follow !


 
 SWEET Jay!!!!
 I think Peter is doing some of the best cable work in personal audio today, next to @MoonAudio! Peter's just gotta 
 come up with an adapter system like Drews' built.
  
 But those Double Helix Macromolecule Elite Fusion cables are amazdsé3 ing w/ the Geek Out 1000!
 I use the balanced for my Liquid Gold and CEntrance HiFi-M8.
  
 The difference when I jump


m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Mike, don't you have the "slacker" and use it instead?


 
 I have the slacker - and am going to give it a shot!
 HRT had a similar cable they used to offer for the microStreamer...
  
 as I remember - there used to be interference w/ the old school USB ports,
 so getting the unit away from the computer was vital for a clean signal


----------



## mikemercer

yungyaw said:


> I notice that you put some support underneath the Geek Out. I wonder is the unit heavy or have significant weight? Have you try using it with the supplied slacker cable? Does it affect the sound quality of Geek Out?
> 
> By the way, all the best to your wife and wish her a speedy recovery.


 
 I forgot to answer this:
 The unit isn't that heavy - I'd say it might weigh a bit more than the HRT microStreamer
 (but as I said in the other Geek thread - the Geek Out 1000 took my microStreamer to SCHOOL)
  
 I'm about to try it with the slacker cable,
 and see if that changes anything...


----------



## miceblue

yungyaw said:


> Have you try using it with the supplied slacker cable? Does it affect the sound quality of Geek Out?



I highly doubt that. That would be silly if it did.


----------



## yungyaw

mikemercer said:


> I forgot to answer this:
> The unit isn't that heavy - I'd say it might weigh a bit more than the HRT microStreamer
> (but as I said in the other Geek thread - the Geek Out 1000 took my microStreamer to SCHOOL)
> 
> ...




Great! Looking forward for your comparison. Thanks for all the info.


----------



## nigel801

Thanks Mike for very detailed review and comparison with DF and HRT. One question which many have been asking and anxiously wanting to know is whether  Geek Out 1000 power is sufficient to drive power hungry headphones like Audeze LCD 3 and X and hifiman HE6 and  HE-500. In your experience was geek out 1000 able to drive LCD 3/X with enough grunt and headroom.
  
 I recently sold my AKG 550 in anticipation to get the Geek out and Pulse and upgrade my OTH and now left with IEM Shure 535, I am not sure if geek out 1000 will be too much for Shure, I am really looking forward to more reviews to find out which OTH works great with Geeks currently my favorite one to buy are Hifiman HE-500 and keen to know if for mobility Geek out 1000 will be able drive them without sacrificing any detail and power.


----------



## kostaszag

Mike, first of all I would like to wish your wife all the best and  I hope she recovers soon. Thank you for your review, it makes me want this baby even more. Are you planning to compare the Geek Out with a "proper" desktop DAC like a Cambridge Audio Dacmagic, Musical Fidelity M1 and the like? I am very interested in such a comparison as I intend to connect my Geek Out (at least part time) on my main rig (Densen DM10 amp and Focal Speakers) until the Geek Pulse arrives.


----------



## kenshinhimura

i wish your wife a speedy recovery as well. the review make the geek sound great. if you were somehow able to compare it to the bifrost uber sound signature i would be very interested and grateful.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

For those few who had the Geek Out:
  
 Tried it with a separate Amp using its line-out?


----------



## akarise

I'm also interested in how the Geek Out does using its line out with an amp.


----------



## jexby

akarise said:


> I'm also interested in how the Geek Out does using its line out with an amp.




+1 to that.

Using the DAC part of the Geek Out in a desktop setup with a different amp (Vali) is what I'm considering as well.


----------



## Taowolf51

Hey Mike, how well does the Geek Out perform with your LCD-3's from a power/current standpoint? I've been thinking about a transportable dac/amp for my LCD-2's, but I've found that they require buttloads of power to really make them sound their best (and I mean speaker amp levels of power). Do you think the Geek Out 1000 would have enough power for them? I was originally looking at an iBasso combo that outputs 2.5w, but the Geek Out may be a smaller and cheaper alternative.
  
 Also, does anyone know how much they will cost after preorders? Will it be the same $199 base price?


----------



## Supperconductor

GO 1000
 Serial #000129
 Sennheiser HD-600 vi 0.47Ω output
 Media Hosted on Synology Diskstation
 Playback Software Audirvana+  V1.5.12 (INT mode) on Late 2013 Macbook Pro OSX 10.9.2
  
 I played CD rips (Apple lossless format) tonight along with a few HD Tracks titles (Jazz at the Pawnshop) and some DSD from Channel Classics. The unit does get warm but not alarmingly so. Bass is solid. Treble is detailed without any etch or hardness. This is some of the best digital I've heard on these headphones. It thoroughly trumps my Peachtree iNova which while having a fantastic digital section (when listening over speakers or it's line level output) never could drive the HD-600s with the same authority and freedom of harshness at loud volumes.
  
 High bit rate audio really does come alive. Jazz at the Pawnshop is spooky. Audirvana+ could not detect that the device was DSD capable but I was able to "force" it via the "DSD over PCM Standard 1.0" option. Channel Classics' Strauss (http://www.channelclassics.com/fischer-24507.html) is absolutely breathtaking. I listened to this one at FULL VOLUME. There's so much easy detail, texture, effortless dynamics, natural bass, etc.
  
 At this point (already), comparisons are going to pointless because for the price, I don't think you can get much better. I'm looking forward to going to work tomorrow so I can get hours and hours of listening in. My music spending is about to skyrocket.
  
 Future tests: Mr. Speakers' Mad Dog Alphas v3.2 and using the GO 1000 as a DAC in my home system driven by an older Mac Mini.
  
 Light Harmonic has hit a Grand Slam.


----------



## miceblue

Sounds pretty promising! I can't wait to try it out.


----------



## mtruong34

Does anyone with a Geek Out also own a USB power purifier?  Like the AQVOX, ifi iUSB or the ifi iPurifier?  Interested to know if you can take the performance level of the Geek Out any further by using such devices.  Thanks.


----------



## Supperconductor

mtruong34 said:


> Does anyone with a Geek Out also own a USB power purifier?  Like the AQVOX, ifi iUSB or the ifi iPurifier?  Interested to know if you can take the performance level of the Geek Out any further by using such devices.  Thanks.


I think you would be better off with the Geek Pulse, which features a lot of the circuit of the Geek Out with a better power supply.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## Stillhart

Thanks for all the reviews and imnpressions!  I have a noob question:  Is there any benefit to getthing the more powerful versions if your headphones don't need it (other than "future-proofing")?  According to the site Nico posted earlier, the 450 will push 110db on my Q701, so I don't think I need to spring for the more expensive one (and budget is a consideration).


----------



## raisedbywolves

is the base model still considered fine for someone who is primarily an iem user? i could see myself maaaaaaaybe getting some cans down the line, but i'm much more of an iem guy at this point in time.


----------



## RAZRr1275

If anyone has HD800s I'd love to hear how the 1000 sounds with them


----------



## mtruong34

Thanks Mikeyfresh. Good info. I already own an iUSB that I use with an Audiophilleo 2 which does make an improvement on my home rig. Just want to see if it's worth it to get another one to use with the Geek Out, or maybe the cheaper iPurifier. I ordered the base GO so I won't be getting it for quite some time.


----------



## AxelCloris

raisedbywolves said:


> is the base model still considered fine for someone who is primarily an iem user? i could see myself maaaaaaaybe getting some cans down the line, but i'm much more of an iem guy at this point in time.


 
  
 Yep, the 450 mW version is recommended for someone only using IEM or efficient cans.
  


stillhart said:


> Thanks for all the reviews and imnpressions!  I have a noob question:  Is there any benefit to getthing the more powerful versions if your headphones don't need it (other than "future-proofing")?  According to the site Nico posted earlier, the 450 will push 110db on my Q701, so I don't think I need to spring for the more expensive one (and budget is a consideration).


 
  
 If everything you have is below 100 ohm, then sticking with the 450 mW is perfect. The main benefit to getting a stronger amp is for more difficult cans. Since you have the Q701, I personally would step to the 720 mW version. That model can handle the Q701 with room to spare, still be decent for more efficient cans, and have plenty of head room for future upgrades. I have 600 ohm headphones, so I went with both the 1000 and 720 models myself. I'll be able to compare side by side how they are.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## cat6man

supperconductor said:


> I think you would be better off with the Geek Pulse, which features a lot of the circuit of the Geek Out with a better power supply.


 
  
 something else that would be interesting is a usb cable that breaks out power, and running the power tail to a battery supply.


----------



## MikeyFresh

cat6man said:


> something else that would be interesting is a usb cable that breaks out power, and running the power tail to a battery supply.


 

 +1
  
 I am thinking about this cable, it looks like the right one pictured but the product description is lacking:
  
 http://www.amazon.com/Apricorn-Power-Adapter-Cable-AUSB-Y/dp/B000JIOHDE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1395977846&sr=8-7&keywords=apricorn+usb


----------



## Larry Ho

mikeyfresh said:


> I will eventually have both, but my GO 1000 has not shipped yet.
> 
> I too will be curious being that the GO 1000 is bus powered. The answer you are looking for will be variable for different users depending on how noisy the source computer is.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi, from the FFT spectrum we saw from Geek Out. The noise floor with BUS power is comfortably lied on -138~-140dB... Use Battery power will help, but you need a very good system to tell the difference...


----------



## Larry Ho

mikeyfresh said:


> +1
> 
> I am thinking about this cable, it looks like the right one pictured but the product description is lacking:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Apricorn-Power-Adapter-Cable-AUSB-Y/dp/B000JIOHDE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1395977846&sr=8-7&keywords=apricorn+usb


 
  
 This should work!
  
 Make sure you do the A/B test by with/without battery. I would love to know the listening results too... 
  
 Enjoy!


----------



## MikeyFresh

larry ho said:


> Hi, from the FFT spectrum we saw from Geek Out. The noise floor with BUS power is comfortably lied on -138~-140dB... Use Battery power will help, but you need a very good system to tell the difference...


 

 Thanks Larry, I have one question regarding the test result vs. actual use with a multitasking computer.
  
 Is it safe to say the USB power on the testing equipment is quieter than a multitasking laptop? Or is this irrelevant in that the GO power supply circuit design will reject/filter noise coming from the computer?
  
 In any event, all of the test figures are hugely impressive for such an inexpensive device, I can't wait to receive it.


----------



## MikeyFresh

larry ho said:


> This should work!
> 
> Make sure you do the A/B test by with/without battery. I would love to know the listening results too...
> 
> Enjoy!


 

 I have a friend who tried this with a DAC that wasn't even bus powered, and he was astonished at the improvement, so clearly there was noise coming in on the USB power leg in his set-up, the source was a Sony W7 laptop.
  
 He was using a semi-expensive battery, the KingRex uPower. I wonder if other more generic USB batteries will not perform as well due to being noisier, maybe due to a cheap regulator?
  
 I have a few different USB batteries, they have a choice of 1 amp or 2.1 amp output, which output level is more appropriate for the GO 1000?
  
 Does the battery become noisier the more it's charge is depleted?
  
 I was disappointed when the Pulse battery power stretch goal was eliminated, is there any thought towards LH offering a unit similar to the uPower but with greater stamina, super regulation, or other features?


----------



## FraGGleR

mikemercer said:


> SWEET Jay!!!!
> I think Peter is doing some of the best cable work in personal audio today, next to @MoonAudio! Peter's just gotta
> come up with an adapter system like Drews' built.


 
 Peter is an adapter god.  Just ask him for what you need and he can build it.  I make my own cables and adapters, and he is my Master Yoda, just without the weird grammar.


----------



## cat6man

larry ho said:


> Hi, from the FFT spectrum we saw from Geek Out. The noise floor with BUS power is comfortably lied on -138~-140dB... Use Battery power will help, but you need a very good system to tell the difference...


 
  
 Does the noise floor measurement capture the impact of jitter due to power line?
 I think the battery could still help.


----------



## mikemercer

Hey Everybody!
 Unfortunately I've got a NASTY cold today - so I'm gonna be horizontal more than vertical, but as soon as I'm clear I'll jump back in here.
 Psyched to see the thread getting action!!
  
_*Here's our review (me and Scot Hull at Part-Time Audiophile) of the Geek Out 1000!*_
LINK HERE
  
 and both of us bought our units (as there were some strange assumptions at the other thread that we didn't have to buy them for review).
 I was psyched to see Scot agreed with me on the performance!
  
 Also:
 I'm not sure if the noise-floor varies from unit to unit - but mine has a nice black background.
 I expected a much noisier component - but they sorted that out, post-prototype that we heard at RMAF 2013...


----------



## longbowbbs

I have been waiting so long I think you guys are reporting on Unicorns.....


----------



## goldendarko

Mike, enjoyed the review, would be interested to hear more about the GO 1000 / Alpha Dog pairing as I think this would be an ideal laptop setup for portable use with closed back headphones. Audeze LCD-XC's seem like another great option but a lot more expensive.


----------



## Larry Ho

mikeyfresh said:


> Thanks Larry, I have one question regarding the test result vs. actual use with a multitasking computer.
> 
> Is it safe to say the USB power on the testing equipment is quieter than a multitasking laptop? Or is this irrelevant in that the GO power supply circuit design will reject/filter noise coming from the computer?
> 
> In any event, all of the test figures are hugely impressive for such an inexpensive device, I can't wait to receive it.


 
  
 Good question: The more devices you plug in on same computer and the same USB bus, the dirtier power and ground will be.
 So if you could have a dedicated computer, that will be great.
  
 If not, then try to avoid using any thing that will spin! e.g. CD-ROM, Hard Drive etc.... these stuff are super noise generator.
  
 Also, I saw someone try to modify the decoupling capacitors on mother board. That should help... But it will need a pair of steady soldering hand...


----------



## Larry Ho

You got it completely right. In the production version of Geek Out 1000, the noise floor is comfortably at -140dB... So should be 'dark' enough... 
  
 Enjoy.
  
 Larry
  
 Quote:


mikemercer said:


> Hey Everybody!
> Unfortunately I've got a NASTY cold today - so I'm gonna be horizontal more than vertical, but as soon as I'm clear I'll jump back in here.
> Psyched to see the thread getting action!!
> 
> ...


----------



## goldendarko

larry ho said:


> Good question: The more devices you plug in on same computer and the same USB bus, the dirtier power and ground will be.
> So if you could have a dedicated computer, that will be great.
> 
> If not, then try to avoid using any thing that will spin! e.g. CD-ROM, Hard Drive etc.... these stuff are super noise generator.
> ...



 


Good to know, I just have way too much junk plugged into my USB ports unfortunately, wireless keyboard/mouse, portable hard drive, Burson Conductor headphone amp, flash drives and so forth can pretty much always be found coming from my USB ports at all times. What's 1 more dongle?!


----------



## raisedbywolves

not sure whether i want to upgrade my hrt microstreamer to the geek out 450 or just save that money for a high-end dap... difficult decision. if i could get the geek out to work with my nexus 5 i suppose i wouldn't really need a dap.


----------



## Stillhart

raisedbywolves said:


> not sure whether i want to upgrade my hrt microstreamer to the geek out 450 or just save that money for a high-end dap... difficult decision. if i could get the geek out to work with my nexus 5 i suppose i wouldn't really need a dap.


 
 I strongly suspect you'll need a OTG cable with a Y splitter and a separate power source.  Assuming it works with OTG...


----------



## raisedbywolves

stillhart said:


> I strongly suspect you'll need a OTG cable with a Y splitter and a separate power source.  Assuming it works with OTG...


 

 well, yeah, haha. but i don't think the nexus 5 has native usb audio support on the stock rom and also doesn't on the rom i'm using (omnirom). supposedly cyanogenmod 11 has some limited support for it but i read about some issues with the hrt microstreamer. maybe i'll get the geek out and switch over to cm11 and see if it works.


----------



## FraGGleR

raisedbywolves said:


> well, yeah, haha. but i don't think the nexus 5 has native usb audio support on the stock rom and also doesn't on the rom i'm using (omnirom). supposedly cyanogenmod 11 has some limited support for it but i read about some issues with the hrt microstreamer. maybe i'll get the geek out and switch over to cm11 and see if it works.


 
 Early on they had a prototype hooked up to a Samsung SIII I think, so hopefully some Android support is still there.  If the Nexus doesn't support it, though you will definitely have to look at a custom rom.  You should also take a look at the GEEK Aria project on the LHlabs forum.  They are planning to make a basically a GEEK with a battery that attaches a bit like a shell on an Android phone as an alternative to a fancy DAP.


----------



## cat6man

raisedbywolves said:


> well, yeah, haha. but i don't think the nexus 5 has native usb audio support on the stock rom and also doesn't on the rom i'm using (omnirom). supposedly cyanogenmod 11 has some limited support for it but i read about some issues with the hrt microstreamer. maybe i'll get the geek out and switch over to cm11 and see if it works.


 
  
 until native usb audio support shows up in whatever follows kitkat, many folks use UAPP with an OTG cable.........no rooting needed.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## sling5s

How does the Geek Out (any version) compare with the Dragonfly version 2?
  
 Anyone?


----------



## PhilW

The Geek Out 1000 held its own. It is certainly a very capable unit and a joy to listen to.


----------



## taz23

Dear Phil,

How does the GO 1000 compare with the Herus? 

I have heard the Herus before and I thought it's a nice DAC. I only lament that there is no volume control as it gets too loud when connected the computer.

It'll be great if the GO is comparable or is better.



philw said:


> The Geek Out 1000 held its own. It is certainly a very capable unit and a joy to listen to.


----------



## Matias

I am curious as how the Geek Out 1000 compares to a full sized, state of the art desktop amplifier. The DAC section seems to be excellent, but is there any gain in using a dedicated amp for dynamic circumaural phones?


----------



## Stillhart

matias said:


> I am curious as how the Geek Out 1000 compares to a full sized, state of the art desktop amplifier. The DAC section seems to be excellent, but is there any gain in using a dedicated amp for dynamic circumaural phones?


 
  
 Yeah, me too.  I'm wondering if it's comparable to something like the Magni/Modi stack, which is also supposed to be 1000mW, or if its being portable makes it in a different (worse?) league.


----------



## FraGGleR

philw said:


> The Geek Out 1000 held its own. It is certainly a very capable unit and a joy to listen to.


 
 Thanks for sharing.  You wouldn't happen to have a Concero HD or HP to compare to, would you?  Both are based on the same chipset and it would be interesting to see how they stack up in implementation and resulting sound quality.


----------



## jaywillin

i just saw my first geek out for sale on the b/s/t thread


----------



## longbowbbs

http://www.head-fi.org/t/712640/lh-labs-geek-out-1000-for-sale


----------



## miceblue

Geek 1000 for $200 is a bargain!


----------



## Stillhart

miceblue said:


> Geek 1000 for $200 is a bargain!


 
  
 Well it's certainly cheaper than asking price.  Whether it's worth it seems to be unknown as there isn't much real-world info on it yet...


----------



## FraGGleR

stillhart said:


> Well it's certainly cheaper than asking price.  Whether it's worth it seems to be unknown as there isn't much real-world info on it yet...


 
 The first couple reviews seem to show it is worth it.  Beating out a Microstreamer and holding its own with a Herus is a very good start.


----------



## AxelCloris

stillhart said:


> Well it's certainly cheaper than asking price.  Whether it's worth it seems to be unknown as there isn't much real-world info on it yet...


 
  
 I'll say if I didn't already have a 1000 of my own coming I'd buy it.


----------



## FraGGleR

axelcloris said:


> I'll say if I didn't already have a 1000 of my own coming I'd buy it.


 
 I almost jumped on it myself, but I don't need a 1000.  My 450 (whenever it arrives) will already be more power than I need (wish I knew they were going to do an IEM specific one earlier).


----------



## Stillhart

fraggler said:


> The first couple reviews seem to show it is worth it.  Beating out a Microstreamer and holding its own with a Herus is a very good start.


 
 A couple good reviews and one for sale by owner after being used once.  That's not a great percentage.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 I'm not trying to rain on anybody's parade, I'm just trying to keep a cool head amidst the hype and look at it objectively.  I strongly suspect that I'll be kicking myself when more and more units hit the streets, but I think holding off is the right decision FOR ME right now.  YMMV.


----------



## miceblue

That's true. From the current asking price though, $200 for a $300 device isn't too shabby.


----------



## Stillhart

miceblue said:


> That's true. From the current asking price though, $200 for a $300 device isn't too shabby.


 
  
 Every item on Amazon has a high price crossed out and a low price next to it.  It's called price anchoring and it's a psychological trick to make you think you are getting a better deal than you are.  The value of an item has nothing to do with its MSRP.  In time, we'll know if $200 is a steal for the buyer or the seller.
  
 Remember, the $250 Audioquest Dragonfly 1.0 is now $99 (60% cheaper).  Is the price now REALLY good or was the price then REALLY bad?
  
 Sorry, maybe I'm just in a depressing mood.  But it seems really difficult to determine the value of the device when it's not widely in use yet.
  
 EDIT - Just to clarify, I don't mean to rain on anybody's parade.  If you think it's totally worth it, by all means go for it.  Hopefully you can post some thorough impressions for the rest of us.


----------



## miceblue

Amazon usually doesn't have a 33% markdown price on a just-released product though. Maybe in a year or two they will, but not right when it's first launched. The DragonFly 1.0 was released how long ago again?

Besides, if Amazon did do that, the backers and people who paid $199 for the Geek 450 would be seriously pissed off and boycott Light Harmonic for scamming. XD


----------



## AxelCloris

fraggler said:


> I almost jumped on it myself, but I don't need a 1000.  My 450 (whenever it arrives) will already be more power than I need (wish I knew they were going to do an IEM specific one earlier).


 
  
 It's something they decided to do only recently, after comments that the 1000 was way too powerful for IEM and that the 450 may still be too strong. I believe that's why they're sending out the test units before proceeding; not because they're unsure if it will work properly but rather they're unsure that it will be well received by the community who primarily use IEMs.


----------



## ed45

stillhart said:


> A couple good reviews and one for sale by owner after being used once.  That's not a great percentage.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Interesting conversation. I looked at the referenced for-sale ad that was posted here. The given reason for the sale is that the seller decided to go with a Cipher Theorem portable DAC instead, because he can use it with his iPod. (The Geek Out 1000 draws too much current for an iPod.) The MSRP for the Cipher Theorem is $899 and you can find it selling for $799 on Amazon, so I think using that ad to infer very much about the quality of the Geek Out relative to its price is a stretch.
  
 PS - I'm not at all trying to question the decision you made for yourself.  I'm a big advocate for caution - maybe too much so.


----------



## Sinocelt

axelcloris said:


> It's something they decided to do only recently, after comments that the 1000 was way too powerful for IEM


 
  
 How so?


----------



## AxelCloris

sinocelt said:


> How so?


 
  
 The worry was that people were adjusting volume on the GO, then if the computer changed volume the GO went back to max volume and completely blasted the ears of whoever was listening. This was recreated on the GO 1000 by multiple people. So by reducing the power output there's a lower dB level coming from the headphones if that occurs, saving your hearing.


----------



## Sinocelt

axelcloris said:


> The worry was that people were adjusting volume on the GO, then if the computer changed volume the GO went back to max volume and completely blasted the ears of whoever was listening. This was recreated on the GO 1000 by multiple people. So by reducing the power output there's a lower dB level coming from the headphones if that occurs, saving your hearing.


 
  
 Egads! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This issue needs to be addressed! I'm currently using a DACport Pro without such problems. I went with a GO 1000 with the understanding it could be used _safely _with both headphones and earphones.


----------



## FraGGleR

axelcloris said:


> The worry was that people were adjusting volume on the GO, then if the computer changed volume the GO went back to max volume and completely blasted the ears of whoever was listening. This was recreated on the GO 1000 by multiple people. So by reducing the power output there's a lower dB level coming from the headphones if that occurs, saving your hearing.


 
 Also you basically have no play on the volume as well, right?  Wouldn't you be losing quite a few bits digitally attenuating the sound?  That was my understanding through earlier inquiries.  You can't listen to power hungry headphones and sensitive IEMs out of the same amp without proper gain control, which the GEEK Out doesn't have.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## AxelCloris

fraggler said:


> Also you basically have no play on the volume as well, right?  Wouldn't you be losing quite a few bits digitally attenuating the sound?  That was my understanding through earlier inquiries.  You can't listen to power hungry headphones and sensitive IEMs out of the same amp without proper gain control, which the GEEK Out doesn't have.


 
  
 Yeah, since there's a limited set number of steps on the GO, the 1000 won't give you much range of use with sensitive headphones. I don't have mine yet, but I would think only a couple before it gets too loud. And since the GO resets each time the system volume changes, you'll blast your ears.
  


mikeyfresh said:


> Do you know if that happens both when adjusting the computer's system volume, and/or an application volume such as the volume control in JRMC19?
> 
> So far I think I've only seen people make mention of this phenomenon as it relates to system volume, as in that of the OS, but not necessarily an application's own volume.


 
  
 I have no first hand experience just yet, but I will in the next couple of weeks. But if I remember correctly from the reports other owners have given, that it only resets based on system volume changes. Individual applications are independent and shouldn't have an effect on the GO's settings. Again, that's what I understand but can't confirm just yet.


----------



## junker

Yeah it's just that the DAC play at whatever volume is selected whenever you connect your DAC. So, if your computer is set at  max then the DAC would play at max. If wouldn't play quieter because you had turned it down on the DAC previously. I'm receiving my unit today so I can confirm.
  
 I will remind everyone that is is trivial to set a max volume in Audirvana, FooBar, or JRMC. You can set it at -3,-6, or -9dB on only lose 1,2, or 3 bird respectively. The DAC is 32 bit, so losing a bit or two. I'll mostly be using it into an integrated amp but might run it at 2v output by lowing the output by 1 bit. I'll need to test this and decide later on.
  
 The 1000 model is made for big inefficient head phones like the Audeze, where the 450 makes more sense for more typical headphones. You can make the 1000 run similar to a 450 but turning it down 1 bit, however, and I doubt that makes much difference.
  
 It just arrived...time to go! ^^


----------



## MikeyFresh

axelcloris said:


> Yeah, since there's a limited set number of steps on the GO, the 1000 won't give you much range of use with sensitive headphones. I don't have mine yet, but I would think only a couple before it gets too loud. And since the GO resets each time the system volume changes, you'll blast your ears.
> 
> 
> I have no first hand experience just yet, but I will in the next couple of weeks. But if I remember correctly from the reports other owners have given, that it only resets based on system volume changes. Individual applications are independent and shouldn't have an effect on the GO's settings. Again, that's what I understand but can't confirm just yet.


 

 Thanks, I received my unit today and that is what I am experiencing. The software volume control in JRMC19 is not having any sort of reset to maximum effect on the GO 1000, and I can move each one independently with no governing effect on the other.
  
 I haven't tried any kind of system volume changes because that's not how I use JRMC19 anyway, and also because I don't want to blow up my ears or headphones!
  
 Early impressions are quite favorable and impressive, I use the Resonessence Labs Herus here at work and so far the two units are sounding similar, with the GO 1000 possibly a little fuller in the bass/mid bass (without bloat) and also more dynamic overall. The dynamic thing seems to be a function of an even quieter background than I get with the Herus, so not louder so much as revealing low level detail on quieter passages, and greater overall punch on peak crescendo moments too.
  
 This is a good thing as I am a big fan of the Herus despite what some others may think of it, but I also don't have any super difficult to drive cans either.
  
 The Herus is a great sounding unit with the various headphones I own, so the GO 1000 more than holding it's own despite a zero break-in period is quite impressive.
  
 It's hard to tell specific differences in my work place arrangement because getting the levels matched is difficult and inexact here in my desktop set-up, and also due to there being two different volume controls available when using the GO 1000, vs. just the JRMC volume control available when using the Herus.
  
 Which brings up a question: which is the more favorable volume trim arrangement? JRMC set to full and then attenuation using the GO 1000 buttons? This seems to offer a finer gradation if I'm not mistaken, as if each GO 1000 button press is less than the 1 dB you get using JRMC19's slider.
  
 Or, is the GO 1000 set to full volume and all attenuation occurring in the JRMC19 software domain technically better in any way?
  
 I just don't know, and I may never as the GO 1000 is actually slated for line level DAC duty in my bedroom system, a Mac mini running Audirvana+. The GO 1000 will connect to the line level input of a Sugden Headmaster preamp, replacing a perfectly good sounding Musical Fidelity V-DAC II due to it's 24/96 PCM and no DSD limitations.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## miceblue

Nice. I was planning to get my Geek 1000 as silver too.




junker said:


> The 1000 model is made for big inefficient head phones like the Audeze, where the 450 makes more sense for more typical headphones. You can make the 1000 run similar to a 450 but turning it down 1 bit, however, and I doubt that makes much difference.



The Audeze headphones are actually pretty sensitive (Innerfidelity measured the LCD-X: 0.28 mW to reach 90 dB SPL at a 15 Ω impedance, and the LCD-2.2: 0.87 mW to reach 90 dB SPL at a 58 Ω impedance).

Planar magnetic headphones are current-limited, rather than voltage, so they require amplifiers that can deliver a lot of current output. I'm not sure what the specifications are for the Geek 450 vs 1000 in that case. Something like the Objective 2 for example doesn't deliver enough current for the HE-500 despite it being pretty powerful in terms of voltage output.



> High Output: 7 Volts RMS & 200+ mA peak current


----------



## junker

I can see them wanting a lot of current. Not sure I'd consider 91dB/1mW to be sensitive. Anyways, the manufacturer recommends 1-4W so the Geek 1000 just barely qualifies here.
  
 The technical specifications of the LCD-3 are as follows: 


Style:  Circumaural - open
Transducer type:  Planar magnetic
Magnetic structure:  Proprietary self-closing design, acoustically transparent
Magnet type:  High-grade Neodymium  
Diaphragm excursion:  2.5 mm peak to peak
Transducer active diaphragm area:  6.17 sq in
Sound pressure level (SPL):  130 db (maximum)
Ear pads:  Specially designed acoustically shaped foam inserts with premium lambskin or super suede cover
Frequency response:  5 Hz - 20 KHz, usable high-frequency extension of 50 KHz
Total harmonic distortion (THD):  Less than 1% throughout entire frequency range
Impedance:  45 Ohms, purely resistive
*Efficiency:  91 dB/1 mW*
*Maximum power handling:  15 W (for 200 ms)*
*Optimal power requirement:  1-4 W*
ADZ6SE Cable (single-ended):  ¼” TRS to 2x4-pin mini XLR 
ADZ6B4 Cable (balanced):  4-pin XLR to 2x4-pin mini XLR 
Cable length (both):  2.5 m or 8.2 ft
Weight:  548 g (without cable - Zebrano)


----------



## junker

I'm running it at -0dB into my Pass-INT30A right now. It's a little louder at the same volume level but not as much as I was expecting. No clipping or anything at 4V. Volume control has been completely as expected so far using the OS and these various apps.
  
 Mostly having fun comparing Audirvana vs. BitPerfect vs. JRiver Mac... interesting to be able to upsample PCM to DSD128. It'll take me a few days to really get a good feel for what I have here....


----------



## miceblue

junker said:


> I can see them wanting a lot of current. Not sure I'd consider 91dB/1mW to be sensitive. Anyways, the manufacturer recommends 1-4W so the Geek 1000 just barely qualifies here.



I don't completely trust the manufacturer's specifications. Tyll at Innerfidelity has a consistent setup for headphone testing, so I trust his measurements more (LCD3: 49 Ω, 1.21 mW to reach 90 dB SPL). With those specifications, only 619.52 mW are needed to reach 117 dB SPL.

Yes they recommend 1-4 W, but what do those amps provide? Probably more current. The original specifications for the Super Duper Geek Out was 4 VRMS output. 4 VRMS = 1000 mW at 16 Ω sure, but the voltage specification ≠ current specification; 4 VRMS is all we know at one impedance. It could be very well the case that it only outputs 0.5 V at 49 Ω; we don't know. Again, the O2 can output 7 VRMS maximum, but it's current-limited for planar magnetic headphones.


----------



## junker

miceblue said:


> I don't completely trust the manufacturer's specifications. Tyll at Innerfidelity has a consistent setup for headphone testing, so I trust his measurements more (LCD3: 49 Ω, 1.21 mW to reach 90 dB SPL). With those specifications, only 619.52 mW are needed to reach 117 dB SPL.
> 
> Yes they recommend 1-4 W, but what do those amps provide? Probably more current. The original specifications for the Super Duper Geek Out was 4 VRMS output. 4 VRMS = 1000 mW at 16 Ω sure, but the voltage specification ≠ current specification; 4 VRMS is all we know at one impedance. It could be very well the case that it only outputs 0.5 V at 49 Ω; we don't know. Again, the O2 can output 7 VRMS maximum, but it's current-limited for planar magnetic headphones.


 
  
 I own a pair of entry-level Grado SR60i that hardly ever get used, but if I ever upgraded I think it would be to Audeze. So, what is your take-home message about the Geek 1000? Do you suspect that it may not be enough for the Audeze? Is there another USB powered DAC that you think would be more suitable? Maybe Larry can chime in to give us the current spec of the 1000.
  
 I'm super happy to have this DAC in my main stereo and looking forward to running it off the LPS4 until the Pulse X femto is ready.


----------



## miceblue

junker said:


> So, what is your take-home message about the Geek 1000? Do you suspect that it may not be enough for the Audeze? Is there another USB powered DAC that you think would be more suitable?



I don't have the Geek 1000 yet so I can't say anything about how it sounds with the Audeze headphones. In terms of power handling I, and everyone else who has access to the Geek Out Kickstarter page, only know that the Geek 1000 outputs 1000 mW at 16 Ω with 4 VRMS, and that's it. The theoretical current can be calculated from these values (V = I * R, 4 VRMS / 49 Ω = I = 81.6 mA per channel), but whether or not the amp can actually output that much is up in the air.

For a USB-powered DAC? There are other options out there. For a DAC/amp combo? I can't think of any other than the FiiO X5.


----------



## PhilW

junker said:


> The 1000 model is made for big inefficient head phones like the Audeze, where the 450 makes more sense for more typical headphones. You can make the 1000 run similar to a 450 but turning it down 1 bit, however, and I doubt that makes much difference.


 
  
 Have you tried it with the Audeze? I found that the soundstage decreased a bit with the LCD-3 and the 1000 in comparison to the Herus.


----------



## junker

I'm just running it straight in to a Pass INT-30A integrated amp out of the 47 ohm output.


----------



## Currawong

Spoiler: Somewhat OT about headphones, sensitivity and numbers.






miceblue said:


> junker said:
> 
> 
> > I can see them wanting a lot of current. Not sure I'd consider 91dB/1mW to be sensitive. Anyways, the manufacturer recommends 1-4W so the Geek 1000 just barely qualifies here.
> ...


 
  
 It's not about the actual numbers, it's about ensuring the amp will have enough headroom for peaks in the music and overall playback that the performance will be linear with a particular headphones. A lot of amps may be able to output, say, 4W, but may only be in Class A mode for part of their power output. Also, prior to planar headphones becoming popular, amps were more often designed for high-impedance, high sensitive headphones and they didn't do a good job with planar headphones at all. So putting an arbitrary figure out there was an easy way to deal with this.  The numbers wont tell you how well an amp will perform though, not by a long shot.


----------



## miceblue

currawong said:


> Spoiler: Somewhat OT about headphones, sensitivity and numbers.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not about the actual numbers, it's about ensuring the amp will have enough headroom for peaks in the music and overall playback that the performance will be linear with a particular headphones. A lot of amps may be able to output, say, 4W, but may only be in Class A mode for part of their power output. Also, prior to planar headphones becoming popular, amps were more often designed for high-impedance, high sensitive headphones and they didn't do a good job with planar headphones at all. So putting an arbitrary figure out there was an easy way to deal with this.  The numbers wont tell you how well an amp will perform though, not by a long shot.



That's partially true, yes. That's why whenever people do power calculations, they usually determine the power needed to reach > 110 dB SPL because that will determine the power needed to reach a peak in the music. Even at 110 dB SPL, that's quite a large number and I would probably be surprised if my music ever reached that level, even if I'm on a public bus. As calculated earlier, the LCD-2.2 only needs ~700 mW of power to reach a peak of ~117 dB SPL.

While on the topic of planar magnetic headphones and power needed though, the LCD-X is far more sensitive than the LCD-2.2 and it's at a much lower impedance (Tyll measured 0.28 mW to reach 90 dB SPL at a 15 Ω impedance). Audeze still suggests having 1-4 W of power to drive them, which is utterly insane. I rarely had to ever turn the potentiometer past the 11 o'clock position on the Objective 2 at 1.0x gain to get sufficiently loud volume levels, and the O2 definitely has less than 1 W of power output. Intuitively, it doesn't make sense to get the Geek 1000 for the LCD-2.2, or the Geek 750 for the LCD-X (it only takes 227 mW to reach 119 dB SPL).

So that brings me back to the question if the Geek 1000 really has any benefits. Again, we only know one VRMS value at one impedance value, so we really have no information about it otherwise. If talking about planar magnetic headphones, current is usually more important than voltage, and as of right now we have no information about the Geek 1000's current output versus that of the Geek 450. Power linearity is something to keep in mind too, yes, but there seems to be very little data about that topic.


----------



## junker

But that assumes 1000 at full output... for all we know it transitions to Class AB for the last 6dB. I just say that because my Pass INT-30A has 6dB of Class AB. So just theoretically this could mean only ~250mW at Class A. Like you said before there are numbers, but without more info it's hard to make any sweeping statements as to which model is more suitable. Currently, I run the 1000 at -6dBFS into the Pass. Sound pretty damn nice for a USB DAC...


----------



## mikemercer

supperconductor said:


> Mike,
> 
> Which software player are you using? I'm specifically curious if Direct/Integer mode is supported in Audirvana. Also have you tried any native DSD content?
> 
> Thanks for all the informative posts!


 
 hey there! ANYTIME!
 Glad to see this thread kickin!!
  
 SO sorry I've been out of it for awhile!
 Been dealing w/ my wifeys illness and trying to keep work flowin!
  
 I used my MacBook Pro SSD/Amarra rig for the Geek Out 1000.
 I have Audirvana - but prefer Amarra (its all subjective - but to me Amarra translates the soul of the music, as well as the dynamics and tonality in a way I really dig)
  
 I'm about to try some DSD w/ the Geek Out 1000. I'm sure I'll use Audirvana or this other program my friend just sent me that I wanna try...
 I have a hard-drive full of DSD, but admittedly I don't use it much - as I have far more titles that I like that aren't DSD.
  
 But I'll give it a shot!


----------



## mikemercer

nicolo said:


> Which Double Helix are you referring to as "_other_"?


 
  
 SO sorry!
 I didn't have the model numbers/names straight!
  
 This is the Double Helix Cables *Molecule Elite w/ Fusion* - one of my personal favorites for the LCD-X and LCD-XC,
 especially with the Geek Out 1000!
  

 but here's a better pic of the cable:


----------



## Currawong

miceblue said:


> currawong said:
> 
> 
> > Spoiler: Somewhat OT about headphones, sensitivity and numbers.
> ...


 
  
 "Need" is definitely a tricky one. I listen to music using a 1W SET amp. Yet its performance is very linear within that 1W. I've had amps here that could output 4W that don't even remotely deliver what that amp can. Even if an amp can get loud enough, the real test is to play fast, complex music at higher volumes and listen to hear if the soundstage collapses. That is something the numbers cannot tell you. That's entirely dependant on the design, so I don't think it's insane for Audeze to write that the "*Optimal* Power Requirement" is an amp with 1-4W given the wide variation in amp designs out there. 
  
 Since this is about the Geek Out 1000 (which is on its way to me) I am _very_ curious to find out how well it does from a USB port. I suspect that, like other people, I should have got the lowest power version as I'm using IEMs more often these days, and if the volume control is a dangerous issue, then it may turn out the unit is somewhat useless to me.


----------



## nicolo

Thanks Mike. The other cable was a lot more expensive!!


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## mtruong34

mikeyfresh said:


> All other USB DACs I've ever owned had a female Type B input jack, requiring the use of a USB cable with a male Type B plug.
> 
> The GO 1000 is the first unit I've owned with a male Type A plug connection, meaning you don't have to use a USB cable and if you do use one it requires an adapter.
> 
> ...




Mikeyfresh, is the change subtle or very apparent? If you could assign a %, what increase in SQ would you give the ifi iUSB + GO pairing? Thanks.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## lmf22

I got the Geek Out 1000 a few days ago.  It sounds amazing with the LCD-2!  Should I plug the headphones into the output that's labeled 0.47 ohm? 
  
 I'm also trying to use the Geek Out 1000 as a DAC for my powered desktop speakers.  When I set the Geek Out's volume to max and use the speaker's volume control, I get distortions when music reach loud passages.  This doesn't seem normal, does it?
 And should I plug the powered speakers into the output labeled 47 ohm and has the line out icon?


----------



## nicolo

lmf22 said:


> I got the Geek Out 1000 a few days ago.  It sounds amazing with the LCD-2!  Should I plug the headphones into the output that's labeled 0.47 ohm?
> 
> I'm also trying to use the Geek Out 1000 as a DAC for my powered desktop speakers.  When I set the Geek Out's volume to max and use the speaker's volume control, I get distortions when music reach loud passages.  This doesn't seem normal, does it?
> And should I plug the powered speakers into the output labeled 47 ohm and has the line out icon?


 
 0.47 ohm for headphones and 47 ohm for speakers


----------



## FraGGleR

lmf22 said:


> I got the Geek Out 1000 a few days ago.  It sounds amazing with the LCD-2!  Should I plug the headphones into the output that's labeled 0.47 ohm?
> 
> I'm also trying to use the Geek Out 1000 as a DAC for my powered desktop speakers.  When I set the Geek Out's volume to max and use the speaker's volume control, I get distortions when music reach loud passages.  This doesn't seem normal, does it?
> And should I plug the powered speakers into the output labeled 47 ohm and has the line out icon?


 
 I don't think you want to set the 1000 at max volume.  If you can, figure out where approximately 2vrms is and use that level.  That is usually the standard single ended output for DACs.


----------



## lmf22

nicolo said:


> 0.47 ohm for headphones and 47 ohm for speakers


 
  
 Good, I had the speakers and headphones at the correct outputs. 
  


fraggler said:


> I don't think you want to set the 1000 at max volume.  If you can, figure out where approximately 2vrms is and use that level.  That is usually the standard single ended output for DACs.


 
  
 What's the best way to figure out 2vrms?  The specifications say the Geek Out 1000's max output is 4vrms.  So is 2vrms at 50%?
 Is it best to adjust the volume using JRiver's internal 64-bit volume control, or Light Harmonic's drivers (if so which slider should I adjust; "Master" or "Analog 1/2"?  (Pushing the physical buttons on the Geek Out seems to change the "Master" slider.)


----------



## mikemercer

fraggler said:


> I don't think you want to set the 1000 at max volume.  If you can, figure out where approximately 2vrms is and use that level.  That is usually the standard single ended output for DACs.


 
 EXACTLY what I would recommend!
  
 That is an advantage of the HRT microStreamer (one line-level/2.25v output for use as a DAC, and the other a headphone output).
 I think, PERHAPS, the Geek Out wouldv'e been better served by doing that instead of the dual headphone out - but just thinking out-loud...
  
@FraGGleR's DEAD on. I'd try the Geek Out 1000s output at around 75-80% output to your powered monitors. To maybe get close to 
 his suggestion...


----------



## mikemercer

mikeyfresh said:


> I would call it more apparent than subtle, however that's really where specifically defining it ends. These kinds of differences are far too subjective to precisely quantify or assign a numerical % or dollar amount.
> 
> Other people may like doing that, but my mind doesn't work that way, I just have no idea how to even create or set that scale, much less start using it to rate differences.
> 
> ...


 
 I agree with @MikeyFresh there..
  
 and I have definitely been experiencing break-in with my Geek Out 1000:
  
 As I approach my third week with it - overall clarity has increased, creating even more bottom-end extension and midrange silkiness.
 I can also pick out natural decays even more-so now...


----------



## mikemercer

mikeyfresh said:


> All other USB DACs I've ever owned had a female Type B input jack, requiring the use of a USB cable with a male Type B plug.
> 
> The GO 1000 is the first unit I've owned with a male Type A plug connection, meaning you don't have to use a USB cable and if you do use one it requires an adapter.
> 
> ...


 
 WOW!!
 I'm going to try this immediately!!!
 NICE ONE!!


----------



## sbradley02

Switching back and forth between the Geek Out and my current rig costing over double (and many, many times the size) I think the larger rig is slightly smoother, but they are very close so I may be imagining it. Amazing achievement no matter how you look at it.
  
 1. Is the Out supposed to default at max volume when you plug it in? This is annoying.
 2. How do you engage the awesomeizer (Windows)?


----------



## raisedbywolves

sbradley02 said:


> Switching back and forth between the Geek Out and my current rig costing over double (and many, many times the size) I think the larger rig is slightly smoother, but they are very close so I may be imagining it. Amazing achievement no matter how you look at it.
> 
> 1. Is the Out supposed to default at max volume when you plug it in? This is annoying.
> 2. How do you engage the awesomeizer (Windows)?


 

 i seriously hope it doesn't default to max volume... i've already had my ears blown out a few times with my microstreamer because of games and other programs being set to max.


----------



## cat6man

Does anyone know what the current draw is for the GO 1000?
  
 I had a chance to hook one up via OTG cable to my Nexus 7 (running UAPP app) at the NYC meet on Saturday but I was not able to get the USB sync, most likely due to the power needed to run the GO1000.
  
 Anyone have the specs or a link to them for the GeekOut family of devices?


----------



## sbradley02

cat6man said:


> Does anyone know what the current draw is for the GO 1000?
> 
> I had a chance to hook one up via OTG cable to my Nexus 7 (running UAPP app) at the NYC meet on Saturday but I was not able to get the USB sync, most likely due to the power needed to run the GO1000.
> 
> Anyone have the specs or a link to them for the GeekOut family of devices?


 

 Just going by the power output, it needs to be running close to 1A at peak power. For a low powered device like a tablet you are going to be better off with a self powered DAC/Amp like the Leckerton or Fiio, IMO.


----------



## rlawli

sbradley02 said:


> 2. How do you engage the awesomeizer (Windows)?


 
 Hold both buttons down simultaneously. Can't vouch that it actually works.
  
 Speaking of Windows, has anyone gotten the Geek Out and/or the Light Harmonic Control Panel to indicate an output stream greater than 44.1 khz? If so, how?


----------



## taz23

sbradley02 said:


> Just going by the power output, it needs to be running close to 1A at peak power. For a low powered device like a tablet you are going to be better off with a self powered DAC/Amp like the Leckerton or Fiio, IMO.


 

 One can potentially use a Y-split OTG cable, where there is a USB plug to connect to an external battery pack (or even wall power supply of 5V for phones) to power the GO.  That way, it is getting the signal from the Android device and getting power from the battery pack.
  
 There is also the option of placing a powered USB hub after the OTG cable, and the GO is connected to the hub.
  
 Either options make the setup less portable; but it will be fine for quick desktop use without resorting to a computer.


----------



## mtruong34

mikemercer said:


> WOW!!
> I'm going to try this immediately!!!
> NICE ONE!!




Mike, I'm assuming that means you have the iUSB too? Please let us know what you think. Your GO is probably well past burn in and thus offers a good baseline to detect any differences between clean USB power vs straight out of the USB port.
It'd be great news if the performance of the already amazing GO can be taken levels higher. And not to get too far ahead of myself, I can't help but salivate in anticipation of the GO + LH LPS pairing.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Then will be superceeded by Geek Pulse X_fi _+ LPS pairing.


----------



## cat6man

taz23 said:


> One can potentially use a Y-split OTG cable, where there is a USB plug to connect to an external battery pack (or even wall power supply of 5V for phones) to power the GO.  That way, it is getting the signal from the Android device and getting power from the battery pack.
> 
> There is also the option of placing a powered USB hub after the OTG cable, and the GO is connected to the hub.
> 
> Either options make the setup less portable; but it will be fine for quick desktop use without resorting to a computer.


 
  
 yes, and I have a OTG Y cable on order.
  
 has LH published anything on power drain?  does it ship with a spec sheet?


----------



## FraGGleR

sbradley02 said:


> Just going by the power output, it needs to be running close to 1A at peak power. For a low powered device like a tablet you are going to be better off with a self powered DAC/Amp like the Leckerton or Fiio, IMO.


 
 It doesn't (can't) draw that much.  It was designed to plug into computer USB ports which are usually limited to a max of 500ma.  I am sure at one point I saw the actual figure that it drew, but I can't remember which forum and which thread.   Info is spread all over the place.  I want to say 400ma, which is probably too high for an Android device that hasn't been deeply modded (I think kernel level) to allow such a discharge rate.  I'm being naughty, though and reporting numbers that I am not sure of.
  
 For those who really want to use the GEEK Out with portable devices, LHLabs is working hard on the GEEK Aria which will come in two forms: basically a GEEK Out with battery that connects to a phone, or as a full DAP with a crap-ton of storage space for all those DSD files.  No word on pricing or availability, but I am looking forward to the GEEK Out with battery variant to use with my Note 2.


----------



## jexby

fraggler said:


> For those who really want to use the GEEK Out with portable devices, LHLabs is working hard on the GEEK Aria which will come in two forms: basically a GEEK Out with battery that connects to a phone, or as a full DAP with a crap-ton of storage space for all those DSD files.  No word on pricing or availability, but I am looking forward to the GEEK Out with battery variant to use with my Note 2.




Looks like Larry H has changed the name of this product to be Geek Wave a couple days ago.
Forums on LH labs shows this name in a thread.

Unsure when it will go up on Indiegogo or Kickstarter.


----------



## MikeyFresh

mtruong34 said:


> Mike, I'm assuming that means you have the iUSB too? Please let us know what you think. Your GO is probably well past burn in and thus offers a good baseline to detect any differences between clean USB power vs straight out of the USB port.
> It'd be great news if the performance of the already amazing GO can be taken levels higher. And not to get too far ahead of myself, I can't help but salivate in anticipation of the GO + LH LPS pairing.


 

 I have the LPS coming too, so I will be able to add that to the comparison I already have cooking with the iUSBPower, and Vaunix Lab Brick.


----------



## FraGGleR

jexby said:


> Looks like Larry H has changed the name of this product to be Geek Wave a couple days ago.
> Forums on LH labs shows this name in a thread.
> 
> Unsure when it will go up on Indiegogo or Kickstarter.


 
 Oops.  I don't spend as much time on the LHLabs forums because it feels like most of the posts are either outrageous suggestions/demands for possible product features, or the same questions/complaints over and over again (where's my stuff?!?).


----------



## sbradley02

fraggler said:


> It doesn't (can't) draw that much.  It was designed to plug into computer USB ports which are usually limited to a max of 500ma.  I am sure at one point I saw the actual figure that it drew, but I can't remember which forum and which thread.   Info is spread all over the place.  I want to say 400ma, which is probably too high for an Android device that hasn't been deeply modded (I think kernel level) to allow such a discharge rate.  I'm being naughty, though and reporting numbers that I am not sure of.
> 
> For those who really want to use the GEEK Out with portable devices, LHLabs is working hard on the GEEK Aria which will come in two forms: basically a GEEK Out with battery that connects to a phone, or as a full DAP with a crap-ton of storage space for all those DSD files.  No word on pricing or availability, but I am looking forward to the GEEK Out with battery variant to use with my Note 2.


 

 At 1000mW x 2 @ 16 ohms, you are at > 0.35A. There is no way that device is 100% efficient, so lets say 0.5A. That is just for the amplifier section, then there is the rest of the electronics. You could reasonably expect it to run at lower current, but it won't reach full power output (which most people aren't likely to care about anyway)


----------



## cat6man

sbradley02 said:


> At 1000mW x 2 @ 16 ohms, you are at > 0.35A. There is no way that device is 100% efficient, so lets say 0.5A. That is just for the amplifier section, then there is the rest of the electronics. You could reasonably expect it to run at lower current, but it won't reach full power output (which most people aren't likely to care about anyway)


 
  
 I had no load at all on it, and it could not get enough power to get usb sync to a nexus 7 via otg cable.
 A meridian explorer works fine with the same setup.


----------



## cat6man

fraggler said:


> Oops.  I don't spend as much time on the LHLabs forums because it feels like most of the posts are either outrageous suggestions/demands for possible product features, or the same questions/complaints over and over again (where's my stuff?!?).


 
  
 i find their forums to be the most confusing i've ever run across.
 i can never find what i'm looking for.
 maybe it's me?................but i think not


----------



## rlawli

rlawli said:


> Speaking of Windows, has anyone gotten the Geek Out and/or the Light Harmonic Control Panel to indicate an output stream greater than 44.1 khz? If so, how?


 
 To answer my own question and assuming others than myself find messing around with Windows drivers a less than transparent experience:
  
 Regarding the Light Harmonic Windows Driver v2.20.0 output bit streams, after poking around and wasting time I discovered that, at least with the KORG, JRiver and Windows Media  players, you have to manually set the sample rate and word depth.  This setting is in the Windows ControlPanel/Sound/Advanced/Default Format pull-down. Whatever Default Format sampling rate is set will be reflected in the Light Harmonic driver Control Panel Current Sample Rate window and on the Geek Out lights (neither, however, show word depth, 16/24). Note also that 24 bit word depth is not yet available in the pull-down table for 88.2 khz and 176.4 khz sample rates.


----------



## taz23

rlawli said:


> To answer my own question and assuming others than myself find messing around with Windows drivers a less than transparent experience:
> 
> Regarding the Light Harmonic Windows Driver v2.20.0 output bit streams, after poking around and wasting time I discovered that, at least with the KORG, JRiver and Windows Media  players, you have to manually set the sample rate and word depth.  This setting is in the Windows ControlPanel/Sound/Advanced/Default Format pull-down. Whatever Default Format sampling rate is set will be reflected in the Light Harmonic driver Control Panel Current Sample Rate window and on the Geek Out lights (neither, however, show word depth, 16/24). Note also that 24 bit word depth is not yet available in the pull-down table for 88.2 khz and 176.4 khz sample rates.


 

 From what I understand, you only need to meddle with the Sound control panel if you are outputting via DirectSound.  If you go WASAPI or ASIO in your player, then the Sound control panel is bypassed and thus not important.  You can set the bit-depth and bit-rate in your player or ASIO control panel.


----------



## rlawli

Your right. The LH ASIO does not appear to allow control of the sample rate but it does automatically detect it and the LH Control Panel does report it. Would have been useful to have a 4 line instruction manual


----------



## rlawli

One more try. The LH ASIO Windows driver allows automatic detection and sample rate control within the player, at least with the KORG Audiogate player; with JRiver, it auto detects but doesn't allow sample rate control. The LH WASPI driver autodetects sample rate but does not appear to support sample rate control with the KORG Audiogate player; using it with JRiver, the player cannot play 176.4 khz files (didn't try it yet w/ 88.2 files). Looks as though Windows software player and device driver interaction is all over the place.


----------



## MikeyFresh

rlawli said:


> One more try. The LH ASIO Windows driver allows automatic detection and sample rate control within the player, at least with the KORG Audiogate player; with JRiver, it auto detects but doesn't allow sample rate control. The LH WASPI driver autodetects sample rate but does not appear to support sample rate control with the KORG Audiogate player; using it with JRiver, the player cannot play 176.4 khz files (didn't try it yet w/ 88.2 files). Looks as though Windows software player and device driver interaction is all over the place.


 

 I'm not exactly sure I fully follow the above, however I had no issues at all using the LH Labs ASIO driver and JRMC19, native/file sample rate detection/switching and playback, including 88.2 and 176.4 if memory serves me.
  
 I have since moved the GO 1000 to my Mac mini based bedroom system so I can't confirm here at work today.


----------



## rlawli

Sorry for being confusing. The LH ASIO driver works just fine all the way to 192/24 w/ JRMC19. The partial problem is with  JRMC19 and the LH WASAPI driver.


----------



## raisedbywolves

has anyone received a 450 yet?


----------



## mikemercer

cat6man said:


> i find their forums to be the most confusing i've ever run across.
> i can never find what i'm looking for.
> maybe it's me?................but i think not


 
 I'm unfortunately with you there!
  
 I gotta say though - my Geek Out 1000 has broken-in further since my initial review - 
 and had a fantastically engaging outside listening sesh w/ my LCD-X and LCD-XCs tonight (it was dead quiet outside for some reason tonight - though I am out in Sonoma County now - with plenty of space,
 we get some road-noise from the 101 sometimes - and it was so nice to use my open cans outside)...
  
 The liquidity AND control in the bass has increased dramatically - where I didn't see an issue before - its just FAR more reaching down there now,
 especially w/ my LCD-XCs! The midrange is getting even silkier, with no apparent veiling - and the highs are also glistening more.
  
 I'm enjoying hearing it get better and better!


----------



## mtruong34

Mike M. Did you ever get the chance to listen with it running with clean USB like with the iUSB?


----------



## georgelai57

Just received my Geek1000. Wow this thing runs hot (temperature). I can't find the manual and have two questions which I hope people can help:
1. Using Audirvana+ on my iMac, which volume should I max and which should I control? I recall Mike Mercer saying we should not adjust using the Mac as the Geek shoots to max everytime you do that. 
2. Is there any significance to the 7 lights on the Geek? Just simple volume lights?


----------



## georgelai57

georgelai57 said:


> Just received my Geek1000. Wow this thing runs hot (temperature). I can't find the manual and have two questions which I hope people can help:
> 1. Using Audirvana+ on my iMac, which volume should I max and which should I control? I recall Mike Mercer saying we should not adjust using the Mac as the Geek shoots to max everytime you do that.
> 2. Is there any significance to the 7 lights on the Geek? Just simple volume lights?



Okay ignore my 2nd question. I was so keen to play it I didn't even turn over the unit and there's a sticker there. Unfortunately one more question. How to turn awesomiefier on and off? Sorry for these questions but I can't find the manual on lhlabs.com


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Click the two Volume buttons to turn on/off awesomefier. 

Sent from my SM-P605 using Tapatalk


----------



## georgelai57

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Click the two Volume buttons to turn on/off awesomefier.
> 
> Sent from my SM-P605 using Tapatalk



Thank you. What are the 2X, 4X and 8X lights?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Freq multiplier indicator Bro. 
Ex :
44.1 x 2 = 88.2
48 x 2 = 96
44.1 x 4 = 176.4
48 x 4 = 196

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## georgelai57

Thank you again, M-I-c-k-e-y.


----------



## citraian

I'm having a little bit of problem in understanding the volume issue here. If I get a Geek 1000 will I be able to use more sensitive headphones like the AKG K550s by controlling the volume in Windows and never touching the buttons on the unit?


----------



## sbradley02

citraian said:


> I'm having a little bit of problem in understanding the volume issue here. If I get a Geek 1000 will I be able to use more sensitive headphones like the AKG K550s by controlling the volume in Windows and never touching the buttons on the unit?


 

 If you want to use the Windows volume control then you will never have to use the buttons.
 It was always my assumption that this is a sonic compromise, but would welcome more detailed information from those more knowledgeable than I.


----------



## citraian

So the volume would not be reset to its maximum when using the Windows volume control? Also, will I be able to get confortable volume levels with something like the K550s or will it sound too loud whatever I do in Windows? If 10% in Windows would be the normal listening level for such cans then it would be great.


----------



## FraGGleR

citraian said:


> So the volume would not be reset to its maximum when using the Windows volume control? Also, will I be able to get confortable volume levels with something like the K550s or will it sound too loud whatever I do in Windows? If 10% in Windows would be the normal listening level for such cans then it would be great.


 
 For max quality, you should use the GEEK Out volume control, not Windows.  And isn't messing with the system volume what causes the GEEK Out to max out?


----------



## citraian

I want to use the Windows volume for several reasons. That is what I was asking, will I be able to use the OS volume like on ordinary combo like my Microstreamer?


----------



## sbradley02

fraggler said:


> For max quality, you should use the GEEK Out volume control, not Windows.  And isn't messing with the system volume what causes the GEEK Out to max out?


 
 I thought this was the case, using Windows volume control reduces dynamic range.
This reference indicates the same thing


----------



## FraGGleR

citraian said:


> I want to use the Windows volume for several reasons. That is what I was asking, will I be able to use the OS volume like on ordinary combo like my Microstreamer?


 
 It doesn't look like it unless LHLabs updates the firmware to fix the volume jumping to max.  Whatever your reasons, just remember that it isn't ideal from a quality standpoint.


----------



## lmf22

An observation about the volume control discussed in the several preceding posts; I found that adjusting the Windows volume control is the same as adjusting the "Analog 1 / Analog 2" sliders in the Light Harmonic Control Panel that was installed along with the drivers.  That is, moving the Windows volume control to about 70% also moves the Analog 1 and 2 sliders to "-4."  However, if you control the volume via the physical buttons on the Geek Out, this moves the "MASTER" slider in the Light Harmonic Control Panel.  Which one is best?  I have not done any A/B comparisons.  
  
 Also, adjusting Windows volume does not max out (or reset) the volume.  I can restart the computer and the volume will stay where I left it.  On the other hand, if I adjust the volume via the physical buttons or the "MASTER" slider, it will reset to max the next time I restart the computer.


----------



## georgelai57

I guess the age old approach of always minimizing volume on start ups and shut downs will be useful.


----------



## sbradley02

lmf22 said:


> An observation about the volume control discussed in the several preceding posts; I found that adjusting the Windows volume control is the same as adjusting the "Analog 1 / Analog 2" sliders in the Light Harmonic Control Panel that was installed along with the drivers.  That is, moving the Windows volume control to about 70% also moves the Analog 1 and 2 sliders to "-4."  However, if you control the volume via the physical buttons on the Geek Out, this moves the "MASTER" slider in the Light Harmonic Control Panel.  Which one is best?  I have not done any A/B comparisons.
> 
> Also, adjusting Windows volume does not max out (or reset) the volume.  I can restart the computer and the volume will stay where I left it.  On the other hand, if I adjust the volume via the physical buttons or the "MASTER" slider, it will reset to max the next time I restart the computer.


 
 Interesting. Possibly the driver controls the volume via the digital attenuator in the Geek rather than changing the bitstream. If so there is no disadvantage to control it via Windows. Would be nice to get the word from LH. Then again a simple manual supplied by LH would eliminate any guesswork.


----------



## Supperconductor

Just tried the GO 1000 with Mr. Speakers Mad Dog Alphas. Fantastic clarity and detail with plenty of power. You can really hear the difference between recordings and mixes. The HD-600s are more euphonic which can help some recordings. A great device for both headphones. 

No volume jumping to max issues when using OSX and Audirvana+. I hope to get a long day of listening in at work tomorrow.


----------



## georgelai57

supperconductor said:


> Just tried the GO 1000 with Mr. Speakers Mad Dog Alphas. Fantastic clarity and detail with plenty of power. You can really hear the difference between recordings and mixes. The HD-600s are more euphonic which can help some recordings. A great device for both headphones.
> 
> No volume jumping to max issues when using OSX and Audirvana+. I hope to get a long day of listening in at work tomorrow.



I was worried about the volume jump having read so many people referring to it so I've been leaving the Audirvana+ volume dial and max whilst adjusting the volume from track to track or album to album using the Geek 1000. It's not very practical in terms of not just reach to the Geek but the Geek runs real hot, very hot. 

So based on what you wrote, I reduce the volume on the Geek using the button to real soft, then use the Audirvana+ volume dial to reduce volume but when I dial this back to max the volume, the level is higher than where I left it. As long as it's not a volume jump per se, I'm okay with this. A jump would have been disconcerting as I listen to music at loud levels.


----------



## citraian

Ok so I've seen some contradictory reports here and more confused than ever before. Can the Geek's volume be controled Windows only without any volume jumps and without ever touching the Geek's volume controls? 
I know that the Windows volume control sometimes reduces quality but I might end up using the Geek on a desktop sometimes and it will be pretty much impossible to change the volume from the buttons.


----------



## cat6man

sbradley02 said:


> Interesting. Possibly the driver controls the volume via the digital attenuator in the Geek rather than changing the bitstream. If so there is no disadvantage to control it via Windows. Would be nice to get the word from LH. Then again a simple manual supplied by LH would eliminate any guesswork.


 
  
 i use UAPP on my nexus 7 with a meridian explorer.
 in UAPP setup, i have options to have the volume slider control 1) software or 2) DAC h/w


----------



## talk2me

supperconductor said:


> Just tried the GO 1000 with Mr. Speakers Mad Dog Alphas. Fantastic clarity and detail with plenty of power. You can really hear the difference between recordings and mixes. The HD-600s are more euphonic which can help some recordings. A great device for both headphones.
> 
> No volume jumping to max issues when using OSX and Audirvana+. I hope to get a long day of listening in at work tomorrow.


 

 Thanks and good to hear. I just ordered my Alpha Dogs and GO 1000 last week for my MacbookPro and Audirvana+. Geat reviews and posts!


----------



## sbradley02

Got a nice reply from LH to my post on Geek Force:
 ------
 Hi,
 Thanks for your concern... And sorry that our manual is not clearly enough. Geek out DAC will get the volume setting information from the computer EVERY TIME when it plug into your computer.
 So the best way to do it is, setting right volume in your computer. It should remember that settings with Geek Out devices. So next time, your Geek Out will set to the right volume level.
 Changing volume by buttons on Geek Out won't get any permanent settings to your computer. So when ever you plug in to computer, the volume setting will be reset to maximum by your computer...
 Hope my explanation is clear enough. 
  
 -----
 Long story short, control volume only from your OS and not from the device itself.


----------



## citraian

Thanks for posting this.
This is however different from what Mike experienced. He said that whenever he used the OS volume the GEEK reverted to max volume.
Strange...


----------



## FraGGleR

Well, at last check, my 450 may finally make its way into the mail sometime next week and I will be able to test it for myself.  You'd think by now there would be quite a few in the hands of owners.  You might try posting on the LHLabs forums as well to see if there is more activity there around this device.


----------



## Larry Ho

citraian said:


> So the volume would not be reset to its maximum when using the Windows volume control? Also, will I be able to get confortable volume levels with something like the K550s or will it sound too loud whatever I do in Windows? If 10% in Windows would be the normal listening level for such cans then it would be great.


 
 Volume should not get reset on both Mac and Windows.
  
 So this is the design. Geek Out will follow the volume settings from computer. Also, Geek Out could change the volume by its own buttons.
  
 Every time you replug the Geek Out, or you change the system volume settings in computer. Geek Out will follow computer's order... 
  
 If computer's OS could remember the volume setting (usually it is), the Geek Out will be set in the original volume level.
  
 Larry


----------



## citraian

larry ho said:


> Volume should not get reset on both Mac and Windows.
> 
> So this is the design. Geek Out will follow the volume settings from computer. Also, Geek Out could change the volume by its own buttons.
> 
> ...



That's great, thanks!
All I need to know before ordering is if more sensitive hedphones like the K550s or the Momentums are usable at all by controlling only the Windows volume or if the volume is too loud even at 10%.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## georgelai57

What does the symbol next to the 47 ohm output mean? Thanks.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## georgelai57

mikeyfresh said:


> It means Line Out, for connection to a preamp/line level input.
> 
> The 47 Ohm output also has the icon for "bigger" headphones, as opposed to the icon for smaller headphones next to the .47 Ohm output (bigger 'phones typically being of higher impedance).



Thanks.


----------



## georgelai57

For those on Mac and Audirvana+, under Preferences and Audio System and Active Audio Device, are the letters DSD64 and DAD128 greyed out?


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## georgelai57

georgelai57 said:


> For those on Mac and Audirvana+, under Preferences and Audio System and Active Audio Device, are the letters DSD64 and DAD128 greyed out?



To elaborate, they are greyed out as Native DSD Capability is set to "Automatic Detection". Looking at the A+ user manual page 13, I changed it from Automatic Detection to "initial dCS method" as recommended so as to force native DSD Streaming but then it won't play. So I have set it back to "Automatic Detection" with the letters DSD64 and DSD128 greyed out again. 
Is this correct and am I playing back DSD correctly?
Thanks.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Tried playing a DSD file and see if its not greyed out? Maybe its default is 0/False because no DSD signal was detected.


----------



## georgelai57

Hi





m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Tried playing a DSD file and see if its not greyed out? Maybe its default is 0/False because no DSD signal was detected.


Hi, yes I played a DSD file (.dsf) and it is still greyed out.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Sorry no expert in Mac OS.. 

But you have indicator lights in Geek Out. If the DSD led is on therefore it receives DSD signals. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


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## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## georgelai57

Ok I'll try that but I thought that means it will convert to PCM i.e. not playing as DSD?


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## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## georgelai57

Dear MikeyFresh,

Thanks for the explanation. For a layman like me, I think I know what you are saying. All I know is that though it is now half an hour to midnight here in Singapore, I am now for the first time seeing the blue DSD light on the GO1000 which I received just two days ago. It switches faultlessly with FLAC songs too.

Once again, my sincere thanks. 

George


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## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## manualvin

Weird, I didn't have any sticker on the back of silver geek out 1000 when I received it yesterday.

Does that mean I received another version of geek out instead?


----------



## georgelai57

mikeyfresh said:


> That's really great, I'm glad to assist.
> 
> I LOVE the global aspect of this forum, on Saturday morning in New York I have helped you enjoy the last half hour of Saturday evening in Singapore.
> 
> That's what it's all about, those Koch and Loesch pieces can wait for another time, or maybe never.




Sometimes the inter web (!) is worth it, over and above some of the trolls and people giving their ONE cents worth.

So the two remaining issues with the GO1000 are:
1. Heat - good for people in NY I suppose
2. The way the volume jumps up everytime I use the Audirvana+ volume to turn down then go back up. So I leave the A+ at max and adjust using the very hot GO1000 volume buttons.

Anyway these are minor problems now that I've got the DSD input right thanks to you.

And it is now Sunday morning officially here and I'm rocking to Deep Purple. 

Thanks again.


----------



## zerodeefex

manualvin said:


> Weird, I didn't have any sticker on the back of silver geek out 1000 when I received it yesterday.
> 
> Does that mean I received another version of geek out instead?




Is your serial number etched onto the case? Also, is it human readable.


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## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## raisedbywolves

is anyone here gonna back the geek wave over on indiegogo? i'm kinda tempted to just keep my hrt microstreamer and back the geek wave instead... i guess i could swing both possibly.


----------



## jexby

I am in for Wave iPhone. Feature set appears to easily favor the Wave, and based on early Geek Out reports audio quality (and amp power) should out perform micro streamer.


----------



## miceblue

I'm going to wait until I get my other Geek products before investing in a third one. The Geek Out has barely even begun shipping out...


----------



## raisedbywolves

yeah, i kind of don't wanna wait until november (and that would be at the earliest) for the geek wave. but it seems like a great product and i was thinking of getting an ibasso dx90 for portable purposes and that's $420... and the geek wave seems like such a great idea. battery, 256 gigs of storage, dac/amp. really a killer idea.


----------



## Stillhart

raisedbywolves said:


> is anyone here gonna back the geek wave over on indiegogo? i'm kinda tempted to just keep my hrt microstreamer and back the geek wave instead... i guess i could swing both possibly.



That thing looks sweet but the fiio e18 is less than half the early bird price...


----------



## raisedbywolves

stillhart said:


> That thing looks sweet but the fiio e18 is less than half the early bird price...


 

 you realize they're on completely different levels, right? the fiio e18 isn't an external battery for your phone and it also doesn't have 256 gigs of storage... not to mention the dac/amp section on the wave is clearly going to be better.

 EDIT:

 my bad, didn't realize you could use the e18 as an external battery as well. but it's still a whole lot better from what i can see.


----------



## Stillhart

raisedbywolves said:


> you realize they're on completely different levels, right? the fiio e18 isn't an external battery for your phone and it also doesn't have 256 gigs of storage... not to mention the dac/amp section on the wave is clearly going to be better.
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> ...



All I see on the indiegogo page is a lot of marketing talk so its hard for me to tell if its on another level. The e18 is the most obvious competition and its not on the comparison chart, which makes me wary.

Anyhow, not the thread for this discussion. I'm excited to hear more about the GO since that will be a better indication on how the other products will fare.


----------



## manualvin

Nope none at all


----------



## jaywillin

anyone get any NON go1000's ?  the 450's or 720's yet ?


----------



## raisedbywolves

an update on the geek wave thing, they put in a new perk called geek wave s which is the geek wave without the 256 gigs of storage for $239. so that compares favorably to the fiio e18 now.


----------



## Anaximandros

And the Geek Wave S has no DAP function. He answered questions in the comment section.
  
 Larry
  
To be perfectly clear here:
1. Geek Wave is still the same. No change.
 (DAC+Storage+ DAP+Battery)
 
2. Geek Wave model S is the Geek Wave without stooge and DAP. Everything else, audio quality, DAC, Battery is the same.
Cheers,


----------



## raisedbywolves

i didn't realize the geek wave has a dap function. how would that even work? through a specially designed app? it'd still have to hook up to your phone, right?


----------



## jexby

App on phone is the GUI via low power Bluetooth to control the Wave. To create playlists, see album art, start and stop play, volume. Etc

But when Phone is not nearby, the Wave has Stop/Play and Vol Up+down buttons for stand alone playing for content held on its internal storage.


----------



## PhilW

I have just received word that the GEEKs will be available in specific colours going forward;
  
 1000 Red
 720 Black
 450 Silver


----------



## miceblue

philw said:


> I have just received word that the GEEKs will be available in specific colours going forward;
> 
> 1000 Red
> 720 Black
> 450 Silver



I bet that makes it much easier on the manufacturers' end; there's no need to worry about making 123 red, 231 silver, 321 black Geek 1000s, 231 red, 321 silver, 123 black Geek 720s, and 321 red, 123 silver, 231 black Geek 450s





mikeyfresh said:


> A few people reported their GO 1000 had smudged ink on the bottom side sticker. I removed my unit from the bedroom Hi-Fi system after a week of burn-in today, upon inspection the ink hasn't smudged at all.



Oh I just read the sticker:
"Designed and Assembled in USA"

That's some good news.


----------



## citraian

sbradley02 said:


> Where is this information referenced from? It is counter-intuitive.



This was my guess when I saw the back label so it seems pretty intuitive to me


----------



## sbradley02

citraian said:


> This was my guess when I saw the back label so it seems pretty intuitive to me


 
 With high impedance phones you want as much voltage as possible. A 47 ohm source impedance would drop voltage (which is why this is good for line out) which is bad for maximizing voltage out.
 I do exactly this in my matching network I use to drive headphones off of a power amp output.
 Logically, the 47ohm output would be used for extremely sensitive headphones like IEMs (which usually have a low impedance).
 This would allow you to use the amp towards the mid-volume settings, potentially reducing noise.
 On the other hand, I have yet to see an owner's manual....


----------



## citraian

Output impedance affects the damping factor and also how headphones sound. Pretty much all low impedance headphones sound really bad on high output impedance sources. Especially IEMs. Headphones like HD800 on the other hand benefit a lot from high output impedances.


----------



## sbradley02

citraian said:


> Output impedance affects the damping factor and also how headphones sound. Pretty much all low impedance headphones sound really bad on high output impedance sources. Especially IEMs. Headphones like HD800 on the other hand benefit a lot from high output impedances.


 
 Yep. Quotes:
 "If you want to be assured a source will work well with just about any headphone, simply make sure the output impedance is under 2 ohms"
 "As output impedance increases electrical damping is reduced. The bass performance of the headphones, as designed by the manufacture, may be audibly compromised if there’s insufficient damping."
 "*THE BEST HEADPHONES ARE DESIGNED FOR THE BEST SOURCES:* If you do a quick survey of the most well reviewed high-end headphone amps and DACs, they nearly all have very low output impedances. Examples are products from Grace Designs, Benchmark Media, HeadAmp, HeadRoom, Violectric, etc. It only stands to reason that most high-end headphones are designed to be at their best with similar products. Some of the most highly regarded headphones have relatively low impedances including several models from Denon, AKG, Etymotic, Ultimate Ears, Westone, HiFiMAN and Audeze. All of these, as far as I know, were designed to be used with low (ideally near zero) impedance sources. I’ve also had a Sennheiser representative tell me they design their audiophile and portable headphones for zero ohm sources."
 "*EXCEPTIONS TO THE RULE:* There are a few headphones supposedly designed for significantly higher output impedances. *I do wonder if this might be more myth than reality these days in terms of audiophile and consumer headphones as I’m not aware for any specific examples*. But it’s certainly possible. If so, using these headphones on a low impedance source might cause under-damped bass performance and a different frequency response than the manufacture intended. This might explain some of the “synergy” claims when certain headphones are mated with a certain source. But those “synergies” are entirely subjective—one man’s “bright and detailed” is another man’s “harsh”. *The only way to get consistent performance is to use a low impedance source and follow the 1/8th Rule.*"
  
 Basically pretty much any headphone is going to be better with low impedance sources.
 If you get too much residual noise with a super sensitive headphone and it is annoying, a series resistance can be used effectively in some cases.
  
 Maybe LH will let us know their intention with the markings.


----------



## MikeyFresh

sbradley02 said:


> Yep. Quotes:
> "If you want to be assured a source will work well with just about any headphone, simply make sure the output impedance is under 2 ohms"
> "As output impedance increases electrical damping is reduced. The bass performance of the headphones, as designed by the manufacture, may be audibly compromised if there’s insufficient damping."
> "*THE BEST HEADPHONES ARE DESIGNED FOR THE BEST SOURCES:* If you do a quick survey of the most well reviewed high-end headphone amps and DACs, they nearly all have very low output impedances. Examples are products from Grace Designs, Benchmark Media, HeadAmp, HeadRoom, Violectric, etc. It only stands to reason that most high-end headphones are designed to be at their best with similar products. Some of the most highly regarded headphones have relatively low impedances including several models from Denon, AKG, Etymotic, Ultimate Ears, Westone, HiFiMAN and Audeze. All of these, as far as I know, were designed to be used with low (ideally near zero) impedance sources. I’ve also had a Sennheiser representative tell me they design their audiophile and portable headphones for zero ohm sources."
> ...




I don't understand why you would even ask the original question about my post if you have already made up your mind that you know the correct answer. No one wants to debate you.

Your post was confusing in that it wasn't clear if you were questioning the line out symbol, or the headphone icons, or both. The OP I answered was only asking about the line out symbol, it turns out that's not what you are questioning at all.

The real answer regarding headphones was provided by @citraian, however the ultimate answer is to try both outputs with whichever headphone and decide for yourself which sounds better, as you may have a personal preference for one or the other and there isn't a "rule" by which doing it one way or the other is so wrong that you will incur a strict penalty.

As far as "all the best headphone amps and DACs have low output impedance", you make a broad generalization. The CEntrance HiFi-M8 has a 3 position impedance switch, and while I would agree most 'phones sound best with the switch in the lowest position, some do not, which is why CEntrance spent the time and money to implement it that way.

Again, nobody wants to debate you on the sonic impact of technical specs.


----------



## sbradley02

mikeyfresh said:


> The real answer regarding headphones was provided by @citraian, however the ultimate answer is to try both outputs with whichever headphone and decide for yourself which sounds better, as you may have a personal preference for one or the other and there isn't a "rule" by which doing it one way or the other is so wrong that you will incur a strict penalty.
> 
> As far as "all the best headphone amps and DACs have low output impedance", you make a broad generalization. The CEntrance HiFi-M8 has a 3 position impedance switch, and while I would agree most 'phones sound best with the switch in the lowest position, some do not, which is why CEntrance spent the time and money to implement it that way.


 
 I didn't make that generalization, the article referred to did. As I mentioned, I have used series resistors very successfully in adapting amplifier outputs to various 'phones.
  
 And absolutely agree with "the ultimate answer is to try both outputs with whichever headphone and decide for yourself which sounds better, as you may have a personal preference for one or the other"


----------



## Currawong

Guys, just remember that the topic of this thread is the Geek Out, not headphone impedance matching.


----------



## miceblue

currawong said:


> Guys, just remember that the topic of this thread is the Geek Out, not headphone impedance matching.



But this is directly related to headphone impedance matching with the Geek Out's 2 outputs at different impedances. 

I'm curious to know why line out ports are high in impedance myself.


----------



## Currawong

miceblue said:


> currawong said:
> 
> 
> > Guys, just remember that the topic of this thread is the Geek Out, not headphone impedance matching.
> ...


 
  
 Why not ask LH directly?


----------



## sbradley02

The core issue IMO is that instructions were never provided with the device.
  
 http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/geekout/984-instructions-for-geek-out.html#16310


----------



## miceblue

What I want to know is how the package is delivered. XD

Not a single person has shown what comes with the Geek Out...only post-opening photos. Is it literally just the Geek Out in a [insert shipping box brand here] box with polystyrene peanuts?


----------



## miceblue

What's the actual, finalized finish of the Geek Out like anyway?

This photo makes it look like a sleek, uniform brushed finish.



Whereas this photo makes it look like an ugly, faux wood-like finish.


----------



## georgelai57

I've 





citraian said:


> This was my guess when I saw the back label so it seems pretty intuitive to me



I've read the posts and I'm confused. All I know is my Alpha Dogs are louder on the 0.47 than the 4.7 ohms.


----------



## yungyaw

miceblue said:


> What I want to know is how the package is delivered. XD
> 
> Not a single person has shown what comes with the Geek Out...only post-opening photos. Is it literally just the Geek Out in a [insert shipping box brand here] box with polystyrene peanuts?


 
  
 I was in New Zealand when my Geek Out 1000s were shipped to me on 10 Apr indicated on USPS tracking page. I just got back yesterday and today I went to collect the parcel from my local post office.
  
 Since you interested to know how it was delivered, here's some photos to share with you.


----------



## roamling

great photos, thanks!


----------



## nicolo

georgelai57 said:


> I've
> I've read the posts and I'm confused. All I know is my Alpha Dogs are louder on the 0.47 than the 4.7 ohms.


 
 Don't worry. You are using the right output


----------



## yungyaw

roamling said:


> great photos, thanks!


 
  
 You are welcome!


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## yungyaw

Very initial impression after running the Geek Out 1000 for about 6 hours (at the time of writing).

Physical observation:

It is smaller and lighter than I thought.
The finishing of the material is great however the gap of the enclosure is noticeably larger near the headphone jacks.
I never try to rub on the serial number on the sticker as I do not intend to smudge it (this soon).
As many have observed, it does runs quite hot. I used the temperature probe of my digital multimeter to measure the temperature and I got around 40C-49C.
  
Usage:

My 15" Retina MacBook Pro has no problem detecting the Geek Out 1000 and since I'm running Mac OS X, no driver installation is required.
Playing all sort of music and file format from mp3 to FLAC to DSD via Audirvana Plus.
Still trying to figure out how the volume control works. Currently I'm controlling the volume using shortcut keys on the keyboard. As I press the volume up/down keys, only the master slider in the Midi window moves. Analog 1 & 2 remain at 0dB. Pressing those keys will also turn the virtual volume knob of Audirvana Plus together with the dB value that reflects the master slider level. Pressing the physical volume keys on the Geek Out does increase and decrease the sound volume by very fine steps but there's no visual indication on the Geek Out or sliders in the Midi window. If I decrease the volume by pressing the concave button on Geek Out, the sliders level (Master, Analog 1 & 2) remain constant. When I press the volume shortcuts on the keyboard, it will somehow override the volume back to whatever volume level indicated by the Master slider and Audirvana Plus volume knob. Am I using it correctly?
Pressing both volume buttons on Geek Out simultaneously will turn on the 3D Awesomifier indicated by blue light in the lower group of LEDs. Pressing them again will turn off the 3D Awesomifier. However I hear a thump every time the 3D Awesomifier is turn on or off.
There will be short pauses every time I press the volume up/down keys on the keyboard when playing DSD files. Adjusting the volume using the slider in Midi window will not cause these pauses. I'm using DSD over PCM Standard 1.0. Is that normal?
I am actually using Thinksound ms01 IEM with the Geek Out 1000. I thought it will be too much power for my IEM, however I can listen comfortably with volume level at -43dB (about 45%). However, I dare not to increase the volume to more than -30dB as it will be uncomfortably loud and I fear it will damage both my ears and the IEM.
  
Sound quality:

It is dead silent without a hint of noise. Onboard headphone out is relatively so much noisier.
The soundstage is much wider and deeper than onboard headphone out.
Instrument clarity is so much better.
Highs are clear but can be sometimes can be sibilance with some tracks. Maybe it needs some burn in to smooth things out.
Mids are great especially for vocals.
Bass are tight and well controlled.
  
Overall, I'm loving the Geek Out 1000. I will spend more time with it and hopefully can do a comparison with my FiiO e17.


----------



## Larry Ho

yungyaw said:


> Very initial impression after running the Geek Out 1000 for about 6 hours (at the time of writing).
> 
> Physical observation:
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thanks for this nice report. And the way you use volume is correct. Mac OS and Audirvana will be the master of volume control. And Geek Out maintain a local settings copy by these two buttons. When you reset the volume in computer, it will restore back to computer's setting.
  
 The little pause in DSD is normal DoP needs a little bit to recognize as DSD.   And this telling me that you are really listen to everything out... 
  
 And I would suggest to give Geek Out 1 week for burn it. C0G caps needs something to reach its max.... 
  
 Enjoy!


----------



## yungyaw

larry ho said:


> Thanks for this nice report. And the way you use volume is correct. Mac OS and Audirvana will be the master of volume control. And Geek Out maintain a local settings copy by these two buttons. When you reset the volume in computer, it will restore back to computer's setting.
> 
> The little pause in DSD is normal DoP needs a little bit to recognize as DSD.   And this telling me that you are really listen to everything out...
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks Larry for the feedback and confirmation. However, as I pointed out, the pauses only occur when using the volume keys on the keyboard. I can adjust the volume on the fly using the Master slider in Midi without causing any 'hiccups'. Do they behave differently?


----------



## sbradley02

nicolo said:


> Don't worry. You are using the right output


 
 Manual finally released: http://geek.lhlabs.com/downloads/Geek_Out_User_Manual_Version_2014_04_08.pdf
 And I was wrong, they intend the 47 ohm output for high impedance headphones (high impedance not defined in this instance).
_mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa_


----------



## nicolo

sbradley02 said:


> Manual finally released: http://geek.lhlabs.com/downloads/Geek_Out_User_Manual_Version_2014_04_08.pdf
> And I was wrong, they intend the 47 ohm output for high impedance headphones (high impedance not defined in this instance).
> _mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa_


 
  
 Well, 47 ohms is generally meant for line-out to external amplifiers, receivers etc. It could also be used for high impedance headphones, though that's more of a benefit than a function. Whenever i have used the line-out for high impedance HPs, background noises and hisses have always crept in. Using the line-out for headphones has always seemed weird to me.


----------



## AxelCloris

Just got word that my 1000 is shipping this week. Oh man am I excited. Can't wait to use this bad boy with my headphone collection.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

And surely we will be hearing your take along with your headphone collection.


----------



## Larry Ho

axelcloris said:


> Just got word that my 1000 is shipping this week. Oh man am I excited. Can't wait to use this bad boy with my headphone collection.


 
 I'm excited to see how you like it too...


----------



## bhazard

Impressions coming tonight. I'm excited.


----------



## longbowbbs

I just got my USPS number...They had lost my order somehow. Luckily I saved every Kickstarter e-mail and Paypal statement.....


----------



## doctorjazz

Have to put in my 2¢...got my Geek 2 days ago, just loving the sound. I did notice some strident highs here and there, could just have been the recordings, not consistent (and the unit is not broken in yet). Open, wide Soundstage, imaging, yada yada yada, but the "jump factor" is what gets me... Very engaging makes me want to dance (not that that's something anyone should see, mind you). Really happy with the unit. Going to go for the limited edition deluxe model (I know, I'm nuts)


----------



## bhazard

This thing is incredible. Everything sounds so good.
  
 One issue I have though, the front notification leds don't work on mine. Is there an on/off switch for them maybe?


----------



## FlySweep

My Silver GO 1000 arrived a few hours ago.. been giving it continuous run since then and initial impressions are very favorable.  There's a smooth, refined quality to its (very impressive) resolving ability.  The dynamic swing this little guy is capable of immediately jumped out to me, too.. it definitely beguiles the zippo-esque size.  In terms of tuning, it seems quite transparent and neutral, but with an elegant hint of ethereal warmth.  More impressions later.. I'll be tossing all the phones in my signature/profile.. as well as the Alpha Dog and the (pre-ordered) HE-560 (which should (hopefully arrive next week)... at the GO 1000.  So far, it's living up to it's immense hype and promise.


----------



## M3NTAL

What settings are Windows users setting their LH Control Panel and Windows audio settings? I currently have 24/196 in Windows and Standard USB streaming with 8192 samples.  For some reason the volume is automatically dropping to -127 though?


----------



## FlySweep

More time with the GO 1000/HD650 tonight.. this is a _ridiculously_ pleasing combo.  Frighteningly reminiscent of my mighty HD650/Crack combo, in fact.. yes.. I went there.. it's got that kind of wow factor... and it's not "new toy syndrome" talking either.  My Crack is all of two feet away from the GO1000, atm.
  
 If this is a "taste" of what the Geek Pulse is going to offer.
  
 Oh. My. Goodness.


----------



## Supperconductor

I've been listening all week at work to my GO 1000 and Mr. Speakers Mad Dog 3.2's. Simply a fantastic combination. I did not go for the Pulse or Wave campaigns because, frankly, this is so damned good I'm thoroughly satisfied. I do intend to test it out on my home rig as a DAC but haven't had the time. Happy Easter, all.


----------



## miceblue

Has anyone compared this to any other DACs or amps yet? People say "it sounds great," but "great" relative to what?


----------



## doctorjazz

Don't have another usb dac-amp, have what I was told was a good card in the PC, but really I compare it to my portable unit, a Fiio X3, which I connect line-out with a small Cardas cable to an ALO National. It's a nice sounding combo-always felt the amp of the X3 was its weak link, others have agreed. Well, I don't have time to go through the audiophile checklist, gotta go to work, but the GO is so much better sounding than the X3/National combo, amazingly so. (of course, since it lacks the portability of the X3, I still use, and enjoy, the X3 combo quite a bit)


----------



## kbal

Does anyone know what's happening with pre-orders on mustgeekout.com?


----------



## bhazard

miceblue said:


> Has anyone compared this to any other DACs or amps yet? People say "it sounds great," but "great" relative to what?


 
 It absolutely blows away my Bravo Ocean, Aune T1, and HifimeDIY Sabre U2 + SMSL Amps. The Aune is $189 retail, and is no slouch itself.


----------



## zilch0md

kbal said:


> Does anyone know what's happening with pre-orders on mustgeekout.com?


 
  
 Why do you ask (if I may ask)?


----------



## frank2908

kbal said:


> Does anyone know what's happening with pre-orders on mustgeekout.com?


 
 I got an email from customer service answering my similar question. They will start with pre-orders on the 1st of May


----------



## AxelCloris

frank2908 said:


> I got an email from customer service answering my similar question. They will start with pre-orders on the 1st of May


 
  
 Interesting. They've changed timelines again. Originally they were saying the order was Kickstarter, Indiegogo, then pre-order. And then a few months ago they were saying that the pre-orders would ship before the Indiegogo backers. Now Indiegogo people are slowly getting shipping information and the pre-orders are shipping next month? Not sure why the change but hey, as long as they get out to everyone in the end.


----------



## FlySweep

miceblue said:


> Has anyone compared this to any other DACs or amps yet? People say "it sounds great," but "great" relative to what?


 
  
 As far as portable DAC/amps go.. I've owned many.. heard plenty (see: enough to know when hype is lurking).  Only a couple of the units I've heard were worth keeping around for an extended period of time: the UHA-6S MKII/760 & Meier QuickStep.  These aren't 'perfect' units.. but they get far less wrong than most else I've heard.  I'd slot the GO1000 above the QS.. and depending on taste, above the Leckertons, too.  I don't think it's as transparent/neutral as the UHA-6S MKII (w/ ADA4627 opamps), but it's every bit as resolving... perhaps more.  It trumps the UHA in terms of stage size (the GO's stage is _positively_ huge) and sheer dynamics.  The UERM & JH13 sound absolutely sublime through the GO.. the UERM in particular.  It doesn't hide much, if anything.. and it's treble has rarely sounded cleaner and more detailed to me than it did out of the GO1000.  The GO's SQ absolutely _beguiles_ its size... toss it in a bigger enclosure and I'd bet 7/10 of 'average' HeadF'ers would think it's a legitimate desktop unit.


----------



## bhazard

I would put the SQ above the Audio-GD 11.32 I had, which I spent $389+ on. It's making me question all my headphones, as some of their sound signatures have changed for the better through the GO.


----------



## raisedbywolves

bhazard said:


> I would put the SQ above the Audio-GD 11.32 I had, which I spent $389+ on. It's making me question all my headphones, as some of their sound signatures have changed for the better through the GO.


 

 which iem's have you tried through the 450? curious.


----------



## zilch0md

frank2908 said:


> I got an email from customer service answering my similar question. They will start with pre-orders on the 1st of May




Oh, so it's only the Kickstarter supporters who have it thus far? 

(I'm late to the party.)

I placed a pre-order today.


----------



## CEE TEE

Agree with FlySweep up above that the GO 1000 is for real...
  
Really digging: * MacBook Air > Audirvana > GO 1000 > HD800.*
  
 Nice resolution & extension. Smooth & sweet. I expect to use this combo a lot- with hours and hours of classical music. I can get a good sense of the space and it just sounds really good...
  
For the UERM:  I prefer the GO 1000 to the GO 450 after some A/B yesterday.  (Extension and bass is better on the 1000, even though I'm using CIEMs. Not sure why.)
  
 Will do more comparisons over time with my other gear (ODAC > Leckerton 6S Mk. II) and see what stays around.


----------



## kbal

frank2908 said:


> I got an email from customer service answering my similar question. They will start with pre-orders on the 1st of May


 
  
 Thanks, and in response to zilch0md, I pre-ordered there and was just wondering because the actual pre-order window says they should be shipped in April and I wasn't sure whether I should be expecting any emails from USPS. Thanks again frank2908,


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Have anyone paired the Geek Out with your favorite Amp using its line-out? How was the comparison with its built in amp?


----------



## zilch0md

cee tee said:


> Agree with FlySweep up above that the GO 1000 is for real...
> 
> Really digging: * MacBook Air > Audirvana > GO 1000 > HD800.*
> 
> ...


 
  
 Oh, I do hope when my GO 1000 gets here, I can agree with you!  
  
 I've resigned to using my HD800 as a microscope for evaluating and comparing the resolution of other components.  In the absence of a "compatible" amp (I refuse to go to tubes), I don't even use the HD800 for listening to music. 
  
 The thought of a $299 solid state solution "fixing" the HD800 is simultaneously exhilarating and cause for apprehension.  
  
 Bring it!
  
 Mike


----------



## Currawong

I haven't compared much to using it directly out of my computer, but it sounded great both direct and using a better USB power source such as the Vaunix hub or Aurorasound USB Bus Power Pro. 
  
 I'm most impressed by how it lacks the "digital" harshness I've experienced with a lot of inexpensive DACs. Headphone drive seems to be pretty good too. The only thing I have compared it to so far is the Master 7, which it lacks the micro-detail of, not surprisingly. Once it has been running for a week I'll compare it to the DAPs and Algorithm Solo I have here.


----------



## doctorjazz

bhazard said:


> I would put the SQ above the Audio-GD 11.32 I had, which I spent $389+ on. It's making me question all my headphones, as some of their sound signatures have changed for the better through the GO.




I know, isn't it interesting? I have Senn HD650, never 100% sold on the sound, noted the Senn "haze" or whatever they call it on the thread. Use decent source (Fiio X3), with external amp (ALO National). Through the GO 1000, magic, haze gone, drive fantastic. Same thing happened to the Beyer1350...didn't like them, felt them good at detail, space, but had a "disjointed" quality, didn't hang together, didn't have the "pace thing". Plugged them into GO, wow, everything tightened up, sound involving, pace there (Senn Amperiors still better in that regards, but don't detail as much), fun to listen to. Who knew? Had another experience, love All Time Low, sonically the recordings aren't great, think they like to fill every bit of space they can, bass usually muddy, like a kind of drone of a bass note instead of the sound of a bass guitar. I wasn't even sure if they used a bass guitar, as the sound didn't have the string pull/bounce you get from a bass. Well, GO to the rescue, that bass tightened up, couldn't believe, hear a real person playing a bass, don't get it but I hear it.


Life is not all perfect in Geekland, though. I had it connected to my PC, but I'm having sound problems with the PC since. Not sure if it relates to the installation of Geek Out drivers, but I stopped getting any sound through my speakers since the hook up. Then, I was able to get sound through headphones from JRiver, but if I was on line, no sound. Then suddenly last night, that switched, I got sound from on line sources, but it stopped giving me sound through JRiver. I tried updating drivers through the Microsoft updates, no help, looked at some on line suggestions, nothing that helped. Don't know if anyone here has any ideas, definitely need some help.
Since my PC is misbehaving, I have an iMac in another room, figured I'd hook it up to that. I have some questions, though. They recommend JRiver for PC, Audionirvana for Apple. I purchased JRiver for Apple when they offered it initially (but haven't installed it yet), didn't know if this would work, or another program (there is some freeware that was recommended by some to replace iTunes-not home, don't remember the program off the top of my head, can post it later when I get back) that bypasses iTunes. If I have to, I'll install Audionirvana, but since I already purchased the Apple JRiver, wondering if this is a good Geek Solution...if anyone knows, of course. Thanks


----------



## AxelCloris

cee tee said:


> Agree with FlySweep up above that the GO 1000 is for real...
> 
> Really digging: * MacBook Air > Audirvana > GO 1000 > HD800.*
> 
> ...


 
  
 Interesting. Did you end up limiting the volume output of the MBA through Audirvana with the GO 1000? They confirmed that my 1000 is shipping this week and most people have stated that the GO 1000 is too powerful for IEMs. It makes sense that the GO 1000 would sound better overall since it has slightly better components and Larry did say that he spent more time fine tuning the 1000 than the others since it has a more complicated design.


----------



## zilch0md

@doctorjazz  I don't have any experience with the GO 1000, yet, but with some USB audio drivers, all you have to do is completely exit out of one player *before* you start another player.  For example, exit out of Foobar before starting Spotify, or the latter will be silent.  That's something I've come to expect.  I don't know if this is of any value to your situation, but I thought I'd mention it.
  
 Mike


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## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## doctorjazz

I've only used iems a bit with GO1000, but it has such fine volume control, no problem using them. They do warn you not to put them in and turn it on without knowing the volume, rather check volume before putting them in, as it is very powerful, and could blow your ears out. I suppose it would be similar for efficient on or over ear phones


----------



## M3NTAL

What driver settings are everyone using? Does it auto up-sample to whatever you have it set to in Windows?


----------



## CEE TEE

axelcloris said:


> Interesting. Did you end up limiting the volume output of the MBA through Audirvana with the GO 1000? They confirmed that my 1000 is shipping this week and most people have stated that the GO 1000 is too powerful for IEMs. It makes sense that the GO 1000 would sound better overall since it has slightly better components and Larry did say that he spent more time fine tuning the 1000 than the others since it has a more complicated design.


 
 With IEMs, I drop the Audirvana volume down to a bit over half and then use the Geek Out buttons to <really> lower the volume on it before playing the IEMs with them out of my ears first.
  
 I recommend playing with your player and GO volume controls with a full-sized pair of headphones around your neck first to get the hang of things before trying IEMs with it.
  
Couple of things regarding IEMs:  There is the <slightest> hiss with UERM but it is just slightly there.  The 3D "Awesomifier" is good with HD800 but noisy with IEMs, whether the 450 or the 1000.  I can't use the 3D effect with IEMs.


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, latest in my sad tale. I shut down the PC for a while, see wah happened after reboot. In the meantime, I downloaded JRiver 18 for Mac, and learned that since I bought it, they upgraded and are now on 19. Macs are finicky, don't like to download non Apple store software, took me a while but downloaded, entered codes, upgraded to 19, imported media, plugged in GO 1000, nothing! (not completely true, music played through the computer speakers, but not through the GO. I thought the Mac version autoamically recognized GO and you didn't have to do anything, but I couldn't figure out how to get sound through the GO->headphones. (I have to say, I think documentation for this stinks-I can understand it from a Chinese company not set up in the US, but there is no excuse for the lack of guidance on this imo). Anyway, since I failed on the iMac, I went to see if the PC was behaving better since the reboot (remember, when I first got the GO, I installed the drivers to the PC and it was playing through JRiver fine, loved it in fact). The PC was now playing music through speakers (which it hadn't done before), but when I opened JRiver, tried to listen to music through GO, nothing. Not sure what to do next, getting frustrated. Any ideas? Thanks.


----------



## Zoo Animal

Try this Mac set-up guide, it's well written. 

 Make sure you select GO in AudioMidi and the Sound conttrol panel. I think the same goes for the PC, make sure the GO is select in  thecontrol panel and you have volume at 100%. My PC has 2 places to set volume..both have to be at 100%

 http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/geekout/1040-geek-101-macintosh-set-up-guide.html

 I think there is also a Jriver set-up guide at LH labs if you do a search. You'll need to locate drivers (PC version only) and it has it's own volume preference settings.


----------



## MikeyFresh

doctorjazz said:


> OK, latest in my sad tale. I shut down the PC for a while, see wah happened after reboot. In the meantime, I downloaded JRiver 18 for Mac, and learned that since I bought it, they upgraded and are now on 19. Macs are finicky, don't like to download non Apple store software, took me a while but downloaded, entered codes, upgraded to 19, imported media, plugged in GO 1000, nothing! (not completely true, music played through the computer speakers, but not through the GO. I thought the Mac version autoamically recognized GO and you didn't have to do anything, but I couldn't figure out how to get sound through the GO->headphones. (I have to say, I think documentation for this stinks-I can understand it from a Chinese company not set up in the US, but there is no excuse for the lack of guidance on this imo). Anyway, since I failed on the iMac, I went to see if the PC was behaving better since the reboot (remember, when I first got the GO, I installed the drivers to the PC and it was playing through JRiver fine, loved it in fact). The PC was now playing music through speakers (which it hadn't done before), but when I opened JRiver, tried to listen to music through GO, nothing. Not sure what to do next, getting frustrated. Any ideas? Thanks.


 
  
 I only have JRMC19 for Windows, and that machine is at my place of work right now. I'm not sure how different the Mac version is. I use Audirvana+ on the Mac.
  
 You could always download the trial version of Audirvana+ just to see if you can get it up and going, but I'm sure if you've already paid for JRMC19 that's the way to go.
  
 You can also get BitPerfect for all of $10, it really acts like a plug-in for iTunes, after the initial set-up you would just use iTunes as the controller app with BitPerfect running in the background.
  
 But JRMC19 for Windows is a stellar app, I can't imagine the Mac version is very different even if still in beta.


----------



## MikeyFresh

doctorjazz said:


> OK, latest in my sad tale. I shut down the PC for a while, see wah happened after reboot. In the meantime, I downloaded JRiver 18 for Mac, and learned that since I bought it, they upgraded and are now on 19. Macs are finicky, don't like to download non Apple store software, took me a while but downloaded, entered codes, upgraded to 19, imported media, plugged in GO 1000, nothing! (not completely true, music played through the computer speakers, but not through the GO. I thought the Mac version autoamically recognized GO and you didn't have to do anything, but I couldn't figure out how to get sound through the GO->headphones. (I have to say, I think documentation for this stinks-I can understand it from a Chinese company not set up in the US, but there is no excuse for the lack of guidance on this imo). Anyway, since I failed on the iMac, I went to see if the PC was behaving better since the reboot (remember, when I first got the GO, I installed the drivers to the PC and it was playing through JRiver fine, loved it in fact). The PC was now playing music through speakers (which it hadn't done before), but when I opened JRiver, tried to listen to music through GO, nothing. Not sure what to do next, getting frustrated. Any ideas? Thanks.


 

 I remember on my Windows machine there was an LH Labs control panel of some sort that was automatically pinned to my Start menu after the driver installation.
  
 Do you see that on your Windows machine and if so does it recognize the GO is connected?


----------



## doctorjazz

Not sure how close the Mac and Wildows JRiver is, the PC seems to have connected to DO again (not sure why), have to go through the set up again on the Mac. I would pay for new software for the Mac (though I did buy JRiver already), if it's worth it, in functionality, sound quality,ease of use. I see Audirvana is a common one. Got an offer for Amarra at discount fromsome site as well. Any ideas how they compare and if they would be better/easier than JRiver?
Thanks for the help


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## Zoo Animal

doctorjazz said:


> Not sure how close the Mac and Wildows JRiver is, the PC seems to have connected to DO again (not sure why), have to go through the set up again on the Mac. I would pay for new software for the Mac (though I did buy JRiver already), if it's worth it, in functionality, sound quality,ease of use. I see Audirvana is a common one. Got an offer for Amarra at discount fromsome site as well. Any ideas how they compare and if they would be better/easier than JRiver?
> Thanks for the help


 
  
 Both Amarra and A+ have free trials, if you used these up before you can request another generally.
 A+ has a better UI, is easier to use, and has some nice extra features, especially with oversampling. Both have great SQ and are within a hair of each other which likely comes down to personal preference.


----------



## eliwankenobi

doctorjazz said:


> OK, latest in my sad tale. I shut down the PC for a while, see wah happened after reboot. In the meantime, I downloaded JRiver 18 for Mac, and learned that since I bought it, they upgraded and are now on 19. Macs are finicky, don't like to download non Apple store software, took me a while but downloaded, entered codes, upgraded to 19, imported media, plugged in GO 1000, nothing! (not completely true, music played through the computer speakers, but not through the GO. I thought the Mac version autoamically recognized GO and you didn't have to do anything, but I couldn't figure out how to get sound through the GO->headphones. (I have to say, I think documentation for this stinks-I can understand it from a Chinese company not set up in the US, but there is no excuse for the lack of guidance on this imo). Anyway, since I failed on the iMac, I went to see if the PC was behaving better since the reboot (remember, when I first got the GO, I installed the drivers to the PC and it was playing through JRiver fine, loved it in fact). The PC was now playing music through speakers (which it hadn't done before), but when I opened JRiver, tried to listen to music through GO, nothing. Not sure what to do next, getting frustrated. Any ideas? Thanks.


 
 Hello,
  
 What software do you use in Windows?  JRiver as well?
  
 I think you also posted about this on the LHLabs forum.  Here what I posted there in case you are not the same person.
  
I think depending on if you turned on your PC with the GO plugged in or not, Windows may set the GO as the "Default Sound Device". You can check that in the Windows mixer. An easy way to go into the mixer is to right click the speaker on the taskbar and select "Playback Devices". There you should see the GO along with the PC's internal soundcard. If it is there, then Windows recognizes the GO is connected.

Now in Jriver, make sure that you select the GO as your output device. You have to go to Tools > Options > Audio > Audio Device. Click on Audio Devices and select the GO from the list. There might be different configurations available for the GO, like the following,

GeekOut (WASAPI)
GeekOut (Direct Sound)
GeekOut (HD Audio 1V0)

You need to select GeekOut (HD Audio 1V0) or GeekOut (WASAPI). Similar to Junker's post for the Mac. Now, Once this is done it doesn't matter if the GO is the default sound device for Windows or not, since it will always output to the GO and you should hear music on the GO. Actually, I would leave the PCs sound card as the default sound device and select the GO as the output on JRiver. This way, JRiver will use the driver installed to bypass the Windows sounds from the computer and you would get "bit perfect" playback. And whatever sounds you get from your computer like beeps or whatever will sound through your PC's speakers because Windows will use your PCs soundcard that was selected as the Default Playback Device in the Windows Mixer. If you have problems getting it to work, select GEEK OUT (Direct Sound). This will handle the sound to Windows and it will output to the GO. It is not reccomended because Windows will resample the music to whatever it has it configured, and it will degrade sound quality and it is not what this is about. But it is the guaranteed method for it to work.

If you want everything to sound on the GO, for like watching YouTube or Netflix, and experiment with the Awesomeifier for videos, or listen to Pandora or Spotify etc, then set the GeekOut as the default device on the Windows Mixer. Just click it and then click "Set Default". Now your PC will output everything to the GO. This does not affect JRiver's settings.


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## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## eliwankenobi

mikeyfresh said:


> +1, leave the default sound device for Windows system sounds as the computer's own sound card/internal speakers.
> 
> The only difference I have to the above in JRMC19 for Windows is I am using the "Light Harmonic (ASIO)" driver.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thank you! You might be right on that.
  
 I don't have the Geek Out, I am waiting for a Pulse myself. So I don't really know exactly how JRiver "sees" the GeekOut after driver installation. I was guessing from what I saw on another post.
  
 So it shows "*Light Harmonic (ASIO)*"  instead of *GeekOut (HD Audio 1V0)*?  or do you see both options?  
  
I guess "*Light Harmonic (ASIO)*" is the universal driver that can also be used for the Pulse and DaVinci?
  
 In any case, *doctorjazz*, the message is to make sure you use the ASIO driver!!


----------



## MikeyFresh

eliwankenobi said:


> So it shows "*Light Harmonic (ASIO)*"  instead of *GeekOut (HD Audio 1V0)*?  or do you see both options?
> 
> I guess "*Light Harmonic (ASIO)*" is the universal driver that can also be used for the Pulse and DaVinci?
> 
> In any case, *doctorjazz*, the message is to make sure you use the ASIO driver!!


 
 Yes that's correct, ASIO is the only choice available for the GO on my Windows 7 system in JRMC19, whereas the driver installation for the Resonessence Labs Herus DAC yields two options, ASIO or WASAPI.
  
 I believe the Light Harmonic ASIO driver is universal/used for their Pulse and DaVinci too.
  
 Both the CEntrance HiFi-M8 DAC, and the Musical Fidelity V-Link192 S/PDIF converter also only give JRMC19 options for ASIO after their drivers are installed. I'm not sure this is automatically the case in all versions of Windows however.


----------



## MikeyFresh

mikeyfresh said:


> I remember on my Windows machine there was an LH Labs control panel of some sort that was automatically pinned to my Start menu after the driver installation.
> 
> Do you see that on your Windows machine and if so does it recognize the GO is connected?


 

 Footnote on this, I'm at my workplace using the Windows machine now, and I still see the aforementioned Light Harmonic Control Panel pinned to my Windows Start menu, however it is non-functional on my system.
  
 I can open it, but it displays "no devices connected" under USB Audio Device, even though I am connected and playing music via JRMC19.
  
 Additionally, it has a display field for Current Sample Rate, that field is blank.
  
 Maybe this item, which was pinned to my Start menu automatically after the driver installation, is only meant to be used in Direct Sound mode?
  
 I don't actually care because I can monitor the sample rate for any given track within JRMC19, but it is a small curiosity as to why this was pinned to my Start menu, but doesn't actually function in my configuration.


----------



## bhazard

I have no problems with Foobar2000 and the Light Harmonic ASIO driver.
  
 The LH Control Panel also allows you to fine tune the volume.


----------



## rbf1138

Anyone compared this to the HRT Microstreamer yet?


----------



## jexby

Yes, Mike Mercer did a while ago.
 dig and ye shall find.
  


rbf1138 said:


> Anyone compared this to the HRT Microstreamer yet?


----------



## AxelCloris

rbf1138 said:


> Anyone compared this to the HRT Microstreamer yet?


 
  
 Yup. Mike (the op) has in this very thread.
  
 *edit* Dang, just a bit too slow.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Let me sum it you on what he said.
  
 Quote:


mikemercer said:


> It's like having an HRT microStreamer on steroids.


----------



## doctorjazz

Thanks for all the helpful posts...had to work all day (all this junk costs $$$), just got home, haven't had a chance to play with my new toy yet today. When I last left it, my windows version had started working again. Not sure if the speakers/internet sound is nomal as well, had some reviewing to do, just listened to JRiver through the PC. I installed and upgraded JRiver on the Mac, if I get a chance I'll try to get it working. Question...when you disconnect from the PC, do I need to change settings in any way if someone wants to use the PC in the interim? Anyway, next project is to see if I can get the mac and GO playing nicely together (though, while I have a working set up someplace, it becomes less urgent), Thanks again, all, keep you posted.


----------



## eliwankenobi

doctorjazz said:


> Thanks for all the helpful posts...had to work all day (all this junk costs $$$), just got home, haven't had a chance to play with my new toy yet today. When I last left it, my windows version had started working again. Not sure if the speakers/internet sound is nomal as well, had some reviewing to do, just listened to JRiver through the PC. I installed and upgraded JRiver on the Mac, if I get a chance I'll try to get it working. Question...when you disconnect from the PC, do I need to change settings in any way if someone wants to use the PC in the interim? Anyway, next project is to see if I can get the mac and GO playing nicely together (though, while I have a working set up someplace, it becomes less urgent), Thanks again, all, keep you posted.


 
 Hello,
  
 Nope, if you disconnect the GO, assuming the GO was selected as the default sound device by Windows, it should default back to the internal soundcard of your PC automatically.


----------



## eliwankenobi

bhazard said:


> I have no problems with Foobar2000 and the Light Harmonic ASIO driver.
> 
> The LH Control Panel also allows you to fine tune the volume.


 
 Nice,
  
 Can you post a Print Screen of how it looks?


----------



## FraGGleR

Don't know if we need a dedicated thread for impressions of each level of GEEK Out or not, but for now, the 450 that I just received in the mail is REALLY good.  The Microstreamer I had has a new owner at this point, but this thing is easily better and was worth the wait.  Will need to build a few cables and adapters before I can do a big shootout with my other gear, but for now, I am really impressed.  Makes me unhealthily excited now for the Pulse and Wave that I have also backed.


----------



## raisedbywolves

fraggler said:


> Don't know if we need a dedicated thread for impressions of each level of GEEK Out or not, but for now, the 450 that I just received in the mail is REALLY good.  The Microstreamer I had has a new owner at this point, but this thing is easily better and was worth the wait.  Will need to build a few cables and adapters before I can do a big shootout with my other gear, but for now, I am really impressed.  Makes me unhealthily excited now for the Pulse and Wave that I have also backed.


 

 damn, so tempting. still don't know whether to go ibasso dx90 or the geek out 450. wish i had enough money for both.


----------



## CEE TEE

Using UERM today with the Geek Out 450, 1000, ODAC, & Leckerton 6S Mk. II.  Trying more combos, no HD800 today.  
  
 Fast A/B not that easy as I have to let the Geek Outs fire up without any phones plugged in and moving the cables or inserting the phones can break the connection with the computer.
  
 Made some changes to the System and Audirvana preferences/settings.  Think I have the volume control figured out now after Larry's post #266 in this thread and the LH Labs Mac Instructions posted above.  I am controlling volume with the *laptop's volume buttons* and can see them affecting the Geek Out's volume slider in Audio Midi as well as the dial on the Audirvana player.  I don't push the buttons on the Geek Out for volume anymore.
  
From Larry, post #266 (red emphasis is mine): _"Thanks for this nice report. And the way you use volume is correct.__ __Mac OS and Audirvana will be the master of volume control.__ __And Geek Out maintain a local settings copy by these two buttons. When you reset the volume in computer, it will restore back to computer's setting."_
  
Other settings help:  http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/geekout/1040-geek-101-macintosh-set-up-guide.html
  
 After changing settings and playing more with just the UERM today, it is no longer clear to me that the 1000 is better than the 450 for them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'll keep burning them in and will report anything else after some more time with them.
  
 Also, anyone else getting any distortion or artifacts during play?  Have an idea that it is the fast-switching that I am trying to do that is causing it today (not warmed up properly), plus the cable is getting a bit loose. I need to listen to <just one unit> all day to see what's what...
  
 Was mostly enjoying music on Friday/Saturday nights, now I'm back to testing again!!


----------



## atsq17

Get the geek out, save up for a geek wave.


----------



## miceblue

Maybe someone should start a Geek Out troubleshooting thread. There have been a lot of posts just on how to set it up...

It can't possibly be _that_ difficult, can it?


----------



## FraGGleR

miceblue said:


> Maybe someone should start a Geek Out troubleshooting thread. There have been a lot of posts just on how to set it up...
> 
> It can't possibly be _that_ difficult, can it?




I downloaded the drivers, plugged in the GEEK, installed the drivers and was good to go with Foobar and Pandora. I have no DSD, but tested a couple 24/96 tracks. No issues at all.


----------



## zilch0md

That's nice to hear!


----------



## longbowbbs

miceblue said:


> Maybe someone should start a Geek Out troubleshooting thread. There have been a lot of posts just on how to set it up...
> 
> It can't possibly be _that_ difficult, can it?


 
 Plug and Play for my Geek Out 1000 on the MacBook Pro. MacOS handling volume no problem. It is a great pairing with the HD800's.....I'll throw on the JH16's in a while.


----------



## zilch0md

Wow!  That's makes three people who say it's good for the HD800.  You guys are killing me.  I might end up keeping my HD800s after all.


----------



## longbowbbs

zilch0md said:


> Wow!  That's makes three people who say it's good for the HD800.  You guys are killing me.  I might end up keeping my HD800s after all.


 

 Liking it so far.....


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## miceblue

fraggler said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > Maybe someone should start a Geek Out troubleshooting thread. There have been a lot of posts just on how to set it up...
> ...



Except Windows doesn't need drivers to support 24/96 playback. 

Apart from that, maybe we should have another thread for setting up the Geek Out then instead of flooding this impressions thread with 2 pages of "how to set up Geek Out in ___ or ___ or ___ media player in ___ or ___ or ___ operating system."


----------



## FraGGleR

miceblue said:


> Except Windows doesn't need drivers to support 24/96 playback.
> 
> Apart from that, maybe we should have another thread for setting up the Geek Out then instead of flooding this impressions thread with 2 pages of "how to set up Geek Out in ___ or ___ or ___ media player in ___ or ___ or ___ operating system."




Yes, perhaps setup issues could be better off in a different thread, but then again, if the only impression that someone has is a device they can't get to work, then folks should know about it.

And the GEEK didn't show up as a usable device in Windows until after the driver install.


----------



## mtruong34

I just ordered the last Geek Out Signature Edition.  Saw that bad boy sitting there so lonely so I just had to snatch it up.  I'll compare it to my Geek Out 450 and let you guys know what you're missing.


----------



## doctorjazz

I ordered the Signature 2...hopefully be a major upgrade over my GO 1000. These were supposed to ship fairly soon,, right? I'll pay impressions when it comes as well.


----------



## citraian

Where can you order the Signature edition? I can't find any info on it.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

It's on IGG Geek Wave campaign. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## zilch0md

Quoting https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/geek-wave-make-your-smartphone-s-sound-sound-better#home
  


> *Geek Out 1000 SE Specs*
> *Gold color, with personalized creators' signatures
> *Limited Edition - Only 32 will be made.
> *Individually numbered (1 of 32, 2 of 32, etc.)
> ...


 
  
 Uh... In my opinion, just thinking about potential sound quality differences, that's too much money for a THD+N that's half of what is already inaudible THD+N.  I'd rather have three GO 1000's for that price.
  
 But, congrats to those of you who wanted the signature edition (for any reason) and were able to snag it before they became unobtainable. 
  
 Meanwhile, I'm geeking out waiting for my run of the mill 1000:
  

  
 Mike


----------



## mtruong34

citraian said:


> Where can you order the Signature edition? I can't find any info on it.




Sorry, I supposedly ordered the very last one. There will be only 32 made and only 16 available for purchase. But who knows they may offer more later down the road.


----------



## Currawong

zilch0md said:


> Wow!  That's makes three people who say it's good for the HD800.  You guys are killing me.  I might end up keeping my HD800s after all.


 
  
 You can make that four. I have an ALO Audio Reference 16 cable on my pair at the moment which adds a touch of warmth (they are set up for the Studio Six). The result was surprisingly good. 
  
 I tried the set-up going iPad -> Vaunix USB hub -> Geek Out 1000 and it didn't sound as good as my computer did as a transport.  A CLAS was the same in that regard.
  
 It did sound good with IEMs though, in this case DITA The Truth.


----------



## zilch0md

zilch0md said:


> Wow!  That's makes three people who say it's good for the HD800.  You guys are killing me.  I might end up keeping my HD800s after all.


 
  


currawong said:


> *You can make that four*. I have an ALO Audio Reference 16 cable on my pair at the moment which adds a touch of warmth (they are set up for the Studio Six). The result was surprisingly good.
> 
> [snip]


 
  
 Unreal.  
  
 I can't remember anticipating a piece of kit as much as I'm looking forward to the GO 1000 - thanks to my hope that it can "cure" my HD800, but even if it doesn't (to my satisfaction, at least), I'm sure it will do a great job with some of my other headphones.
  
 Mike


----------



## kbal

Has anyone tried these over USB OTG yet? I'm assuming a secondary power supply would be required or heavily recommended but I'm still curious as to whether it works


----------



## bhazard

kbal said:


> Has anyone tried these over USB OTG yet? I'm assuming a secondary power supply would be required or heavily recommended but I'm still curious as to whether it works


 
 I did. I used a Y cable, external battery, and a Nexus 5.
  
 The GO 1000 DID power up, but one of the lights was blue (not the 3D blue light), and it would not initialize in Cyanogenmod or UAPP. I was bummed. My Aune T1 works over USB OTG.
  
 Hoping CM, UAPP, or even LH Labs somehow adds support for this in the future.


----------



## FraGGleR

kbal said:


> Has anyone tried these over USB OTG yet? I'm assuming a secondary power supply would be required or heavily recommended but I'm still curious as to whether it works


 
 I haven't been able to get mine to work yet on my Galaxy Note II.  I have connected directly and through a powered hub.  I have also tried UAPP with no luck either.


----------



## AxelCloris

From what I understand, Android devices are going to potentially run into issues depending on what bootrom you're using. Since the GO is USB 2.0 and requires drivers for Windows, you would need a bootrom that supports USB OTG over 2.0 protocols and not just 1.2. Then again, I could be completely wrong. I'm an Apple junkie and my experience with Android is limited to only a couple of phones over about a month and a half.


----------



## FlySweep

My understanding is that the GO1000 draws too much current for USB OTG.. but the 450 is rumored to work via OTG.  My S4 has the latest version of Touchwiz, so I'll give it a spin with my GO1000 and report back.


----------



## FraGGleR

axelcloris said:


> From what I understand, Android devices are going to potentially run into issues depending on what bootrom you're using. Since the GO is USB 2.0 and requires drivers for Windows, you would need a bootrom that supports USB OTG over 2.0 protocols and not just 1.2. Then again, I could be completely wrong. I'm an Apple junkie and my experience with Android is limited to only a couple of phones over about a month and a half.


 
 I haven't dug deeper, but I was able to get a CEntrance HifiM8 which is a USB 2.0 device to work with my Note II using USB Audio Player Pro.  I have posted in a couple places on LHLabs about Android and the Wave.  I don't think they have figured out how they are going to do it right outside of Bluetooth streaming.  If they can get it to work via OTG like they are saying they will, then I am sure it will trickle down to the Geek if we can't sort it out earlier.


----------



## FraGGleR

fraggler said:


> I haven't dug deeper, but I was able to get a CEntrance HifiM8 which is a USB 2.0 device to work with my Note II using USB Audio Player Pro.  I have posted in a couple places on LHLabs about Android and the Wave.  I don't think they have figured out how they are going to do it right outside of Bluetooth streaming.  If they can get it to work via OTG like they are saying they will, then I am sure it will trickle down to the Geek if we can't sort it out earlier.


 
 They also showed a very early prototype working with a Samsung SIII, so I'm not sure what has changed.  My Note II and most later Galaxy variants all have very similar USB OTG protocols which got me hopeful.


----------



## zilch0md

fraggler said:


> I haven't dug deeper, but I was able to get a CEntrance HifiM8 which is a USB 2.0 device to work with my Note II using USB Audio Player Pro.  I have posted in a couple places on LHLabs about Android and the Wave.  I don't think they have figured out how they are going to do it right outside of Bluetooth streaming.  If they can get it to work via OTG like they are saying they will, then I am sure it will trickle down to the Geek if we can't sort it out earlier.


 
  
 I'm not sure if this is relevant to your post, but the HiFiM8 is not powered by the USB port, as is the Geek Out.


----------



## FraGGleR

zilch0md said:


> I'm not sure if this is relevant to your post, but the HiFiM8 is not powered by the USB port, as is the Geek Out.


 
 Oh I know.  I used a powered hub in my short experiments with the Geek Out to make sure that wasn't the issue.


----------



## bneiderman

I am a little confused by people using the 1000 with low impedence phones. Why would you do this? Can you hurt the IEMs or OTE cans this way? I just got a pair of Oppo PM-1 which are rated at 32 OHM impedence and see that for me the 450 would be all I need. Is it unsafe to go higher? I don't want to lose dynamics but as it is the 450 provides more output than all other portable amps I was looking at. Any advice?


----------



## yungyaw

bneiderman said:


> I am a little confused by people using the 1000 with low impedence phones. Why would you do this? Can you hurt the IEMs or OTE cans this way? I just got a pair of Oppo PM-1 which are rated at 32 OHM impedence and see that for me the 450 would be all I need. Is it unsafe to go higher? I don't want to lose dynamics but as it is the 450 provides more output than all other portable amps I was looking at. Any advice?


 
  
 Aside from the impedance, it also depends on the sensitivity of the IEM. I'm currently using Thinksound ms01 with the Geek Out 1000. Initially I thought it will be too powerful for my IEM. So I plug my ms01 in with caution when I first plugged it in to the GO1000. To my surprise I was able to crank the volume level to about 45% and still able to listen to it comfortably. Apparently the ms01's sensitivity is not very high (96 ±3 dB @ 1KHz 1mW). I will be getting my GO450 soon and hopefully I can compare both of them in terms of power handling and synergy.


----------



## Matias

Geek Out 1000 has 2 outputs, one for low impedance phones and one for high impedance phones and/or external amp. Correct?


----------



## yungyaw

matias said:


> Geek Out 1000 has 2 outputs, one for low impedance phones and one for high impedance phones and/or external amp. Correct?


 
  From Geek Out user manual:


> There are two 3.5mm analog output jacks found on the bottom of your Geek Out with an output impedance of .47ohm and 47ohm. You will want to use the .47ohm that is indicated with a headphone symbol for lower impedance headphones. The 47ohms is a line out for bigger impedance headphones. This is also used for other equipment such as external amplifiers and
> stereo equipment.


 
  
 You can download the manual and windows driver here: http://geek.lhlabs.com/geekoutsupport.html


----------



## doctorjazz

I'm no technical expert, and am probably doing it wrong, but I find sometimes using the high output jack on the GO 1000 just sounds better. I just got Thinksound on1 in the mail, thought it sounded a bit muddy through my Fiio X3 (with or without ALO National amp), figured I'd try it with the Geek. The 0.47 ohm was a bit better, still a bit muddy. Put it on the 47 Ohm, cleared up, sounds nice. I've tried it on a number of headphones, find sometimes I like the one that shouldn't be the correct one.


----------



## doctorjazz

Went back to the 0.47 ohm, it actually does sound better...


----------



## bneiderman

yungyaw said:


> Aside from the impedance, it also depends on the sensitivity of the IEM. I'm currently using Thinksound ms01 with the Geek Out 1000. Initially I thought it will be too powerful for my IEM. So I plug my ms01 in with caution when I first plugged it in to the GO1000. To my surprise I was able to crank the volume level to about 45% and still able to listen to it comfortably. Apparently the ms01's sensitivity is not very high (96 ±3 dB @ 1KHz 1mW). I will be getting my GO450 soon and hopefully I can compare both of them in terms of power handling and synergy.


 
  
 The Oppo PM-1 have a fairly high sensitivity of 102 dB/mW so the 1000 would most likely be WAY OVERKILL for me. I should be find with the 450 or 720. I wrote Larry Ho and he told me to get the 720 so I would have more flexibility in the future. Seems reasonable. I wonder how long it would take to get. Loving the PM-1 straight out of an Ipad right now. Can only imagine with the Geek Out.


----------



## AxelCloris

bneiderman said:


> The Oppo PM-1 have a fairly high sensitivity of 102 dB/mW so the 1000 would most likely be WAY OVERKILL for me. I should be find with the 450 or 720. I wrote Larry Ho and he told me to get the 720 so I would have more flexibility in the future. Seems reasonable. I wonder how long it would take to get. Loving the PM-1 straight out of an Ipad right now. Can only imagine with the Geek Out.


 
  
 Send me your PM-1 for a bit and I'll let you know how it sounds out the 720 and 1000.


----------



## bneiderman

axelcloris said:


> Send me your PM-1 for a bit and I'll let you know how it sounds out the 720 and 1000.


 
 LMAO. Sounds like a deal!


----------



## AxelCloris

bneiderman said:


> LMAO. Sounds like a deal!


 
  
 Depending on where you're located, there are a few Head-Fi meets coming up in the next couple months where a Geek Out will be present. Could be a great way to test it out for yourself before buying if you haven't already. If you have one coming, then it should be soon-ish.


----------



## yungyaw

bneiderman said:


> The Oppo PM-1 have a fairly high sensitivity of 102 dB/mW so the 1000 would most likely be WAY OVERKILL for me. I should be find with the 450 or 720. I wrote Larry Ho and he told me to get the 720 so I would have more flexibility in the future. Seems reasonable. I wonder how long it would take to get. Loving the PM-1 straight out of an Ipad right now. Can only imagine with the Geek Out.


 
  
 Yeah, if that the case, I think GO720 suits you more and also prepare you for future headphones. I think you will enjoy it more when listening with Geek Out. At least I did.


----------



## yungyaw

doctorjazz said:


> I'm no technical expert, and am probably doing it wrong, but I find sometimes using the high output jack on the GO 1000 just sounds better. I just got Thinksound on1 in the mail, thought it sounded a bit muddy through my Fiio X3 (with or without ALO National amp), figured I'd try it with the Geek. The 0.47 ohm was a bit better, still a bit muddy. Put it on the 47 Ohm, cleared up, sounds nice. I've tried it on a number of headphones, find sometimes I like the one that shouldn't be the correct one.


 
  
 Wow, you just got Thinksound On1? I was wondering if any Geek Out owner using On1. From reviews it performs quite good at its price range. Maybe need some burn in since both the Geek Out and On1 are new. Looking forward to hear more from you about the On1.


----------



## doctorjazz

Sure, the On1 is really well regarded by many on the Discovery Thread In Whose Ears I Trust. Have it hooked up on my burn-in station now, give it some burn in time, post again. They are gorgeous. How do you like the in ears?





yungyaw said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > I'm no technical expert, and am probably doing it wrong, but I find sometimes using the high output jack on the GO 1000 just sounds better. I just got Thinksound on1 in the mail, thought it sounded a bit muddy through my Fiio X3 (with or without ALO National amp), figured I'd try it with the Geek. The 0.47 ohm was a bit better, still a bit muddy. Put it on the 47 Ohm, cleared up, sounds nice. I've tried it on a number of headphones, find sometimes I like the one that shouldn't be the correct one.
> ...


----------



## yungyaw

doctorjazz said:


> Sure, the On1 is really well regarded by many on the Discovery Thread In Whose Ears I Trust. Have it hooked up on my burn-in station now, give it some burn in time, post again. They are gorgeous. How do you like the in ears?


 
  
 I have Thinksound ms01 and ts02+mic. I like both of them with ms01 more neutral sounding and ts02 is on the warm side, but I still enjoy the extra warm. Both benefited from Geek Out. Instruments clarity has improved and soundstage is wider. Loving it so far!
  
 Another thing I like about Thinksound products (apart from the greener approach in their products design), they are quite comfortable and not fatiguing. I can listen to them for hours.


----------



## atsq17

I changed my order from GO450 to GO1000 based on your previous impression and now back again to GO450 on your latest feedback. LOL. I will be using the GO with 5 driver Custom IEM. 
  
  
 Quote:


cee tee said:


> Using UERM today with the Geek Out 450, 1000, ODAC, & Leckerton 6S Mk. II.  Trying more combos, no HD800 today.
> 
> Fast A/B not that easy as I have to let the Geek Outs fire up without any phones plugged in and moving the cables or inserting the phones can break the connection with the computer.
> 
> ...


----------



## bhazard

My GO1000 review:
 http://www.head-fi.org/products/lhlabs-geek-out/reviews/10882
  
  
 "The LH Labs Geek Out had a lot to live up to. A good 7+ months ago, the Geek Out started as a concept. This concept was to bring a high quality audio experience into a small and affordable device. Light Harmonic already created and sold the Da Vinci DAC, an award winning $20,000+ DAC, but they wanted to take a chance and bring a more affordable device to the masses.
  
 Kickstarter crowdfunding was used to successfully fund into the project. As an "investor" into the Geek Out, I felt connected with the project. I and the other backers wanted it to succeed. We offered advice that changed the device into a better one over time. We told LH Labs what we wanted, and they listened. I got in as an early backer, and got an incredible deal on an incredible device. I kick myself for not getting in earlier and getting an even bigger discount. Even at retail, the Geek Out is still a steal.
  
 I have the Silver Geek Out 1000, and this sucker is powerful. It is easily as powerful as my 1000mW Aune T1. The GO is being powered from USB alone, where the T1 has a giant power supply that needs to be plugged in. The Geek Out also happens to support 96khz+ and DSD, which the T1 can't do. The GO also sounds much better, and does it for the same price.
  
 The device itself is smaller than a deck of cards, is lightweight, and has a beautiful aluminum shell. A LED alignment shows you physically on the device what bitrate your music is being played in. The two outputs offer different resistance modes 0.47ohm and 47ohm, which can be used simultaneously, or to better match your equipment. The GO is so powerful, that I normally run it on the 47ohm line out most of the time. Although I no longer have it, I'm sure the GO 1000 could easily support the HE-500 and most other demanding headphones as well.
  
 Sound quality is stunning. "I'm hearing things I never heard before" is so cliche in an audio review, but it is 100% true here. Soundstage, imaging, bass tightness, clarity, power, a black background, impact... it's all there in spades. I find it more enjoyable than my old Audio-GD 11.32 unit, which was no slouch in sound, and was $350+.
  
 The GO also has this unique ability to "change" the sound signature of some headphones, yet it doesn't color the sound and remains neutral. Let me try to explain this, because it might not make sense at first. Some headphones that I have previously found "a little hollow" or not as enjoyable as I liked, now seem to have come alive and gotten better. Maybe it is from the increased detail this DAC gives, but it can really throw you off guard and question your opinions of your headphone and speaker gear through older DACs and amps. I think that's awesome, and its an intangible quality that wasn't expected.
  
 Setup on Windows 8.1 was quick and easy. The LH Control Panel is simple and shows you basic info and volume control. Foobar2000 and the LH ASIO driver played with no issues.
  
 I was unable to get the GO working on my Cyanogenmod 11 Nexus 5 Android Phone with USB Audio Player Pro however, which was disappointing. I connected the GO via a USB OTG Y cable, and provided it external battery power with 2.1A. It powered the device, but neither CM11 nor UAPP was able to initialize it. Hopefully this can be fixed or added in the future. My Aune T1 worked flawlessly with CM11 and UAPP. The GO would be the ultimate DAC/Amp for me if it could work off my Nexus too.
  
 I'm blown away by the GO. It draws me in, and makes me want to listen to my music more. Mission accomplished LH. Well done, and thank you. Keep bringing this quality and pricing around, and I will continue to purchase them.
  
 Just buy one already. I'm really excited at what the Geek Pulse and Geek Wave will bring when they arrive now."


----------



## zilch0md

bneiderman said:


> The Oppo PM-1 have a fairly high sensitivity of 102 dB/mW so the 1000 would most likely be WAY OVERKILL for me. I should be find with the 450 or 720. I wrote Larry Ho and he told me to get the 720 so I would have more flexibility in the future. Seems reasonable. I wonder how long it would take to get. Loving the PM-1 straight out of an Ipad right now. Can only imagine with the Geek Out.


 
  
 I've been listening to the PM-1 with balanced cables from an amp that puts out well over 1000 mW rms into 32-Ohms - more than twice the power of the GO 1000's 500 mW into 32-Ohms.
  
 So don't worry about the the GO 1000 being overkill for the PM-1.  It doesn't crave power anything like the Audeze LCD-2, but it _does _scale up nicely!
  
 Mike


----------



## CEE TEE

atsq17 said:


> I changed my order from GO450 to GO1000 based on your previous impression and now back again to GO450 on your latest feedback. LOL. I will be using the GO with 5 driver Custom IEM.


 
 Yep, sorry about that!  Not sure what caused that sense on Saturday...  That's the danger of posting impressions too early.  Now I have to figure out if I "need" both 1000 and 450.  Definitely keeping 1000 for the HD800, will test 450 further with UERM and Focal Spirit Pro. Hope you dig the 450!


----------



## zerodeefex

CEE TEE: I'll be keeping one of each so you can just borrow the 450 when you want to


----------



## Roscoeiii

Hoping that there will be a Geek Out at AXPONA this weekend. Any Headfier with one going to be heading to the show?


----------



## DanBa

fraggler said:


> I haven't been able to get mine to work yet on my Galaxy Note II.  I have connected directly and through a powered hub.  I have also tried UAPP with no luck either.


 
  


bhazard said:


> I was unable to get the GO working on my Cyanogenmod 11 Nexus 5 Android Phone with USB Audio Player Pro however, which was disappointing. I connected the GO via a USB OTG Y cable, and provided it external battery power with 2.1A. It powered the device, but neither CM11 nor UAPP was able to initialize it. Hopefully this can be fixed or added in the future. My Aune T1 worked flawlessly with CM11 and UAPP. The GO would be the ultimate DAC/Amp for me if it could work off my Nexus too.


 
  
 I think you should contact the developer of UAPP.
 Alongside the best sound quality rendering, one of the other advantages of UAPP is that its developer can be contacted and its USB audio soft driver could be adapted to be compatible with some USB DAC.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/4560#post_10485334
  
 In the meantime, we could anaIyse your Geek Out-Android device dmesg output log file,
http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/60#post_8428180
http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/1395#post_9069866
 and the USB descriptors of the Geek Out using USB View.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/2025#post_9320708
  
 The analysis could be proceeded as following: compare a dmesg output issued from a successful Android device - USB DAC interworking (i.e. Nexus 5 - Aune T1 dmesg output) to a bugged dmesg output (i.e. Nexus 5 - Geek Out dmesg output).
http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/75#post_8469751
 The USB errors of a dmesg output are listed at the following links:
http://www.kneuro.net/cgi-bin/lxr/http/source/include/asm-arm/errno.h
http://www.mjmwired.net/kernel/Documentation/usb/error-codes.txt
http://www-numi.fnal.gov/offline_software/srt_public_context/WebDocs/Errors/unix_system_errors.html
http://www.kneuro.net/cgi-bin/lxr/http/source/include/linux/usb.h?a=mips#L427


----------



## jaywillin

my GO 720 has shipped


----------



## bhazard

danba said:


> I think you should contact the developer of UAPP.
> Alongside the best sound quality rendering, one of the other advantages of UAPP is that its developer can be contacted and its USB audio soft driver could be adapted to be compatible with some USB DAC.
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/4560#post_10485334
> 
> ...


 
 Awesome. I'll try to get some logs this weekend.


----------



## vincent215

I am having my first listen of the Geek Out 1000 with an Alpha Dog, and I am being blown away by the clarity of this little guy. Just amazing!!!!


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, another question, maybe demonstrating my technical ignorance. I'm listening to HDTracks 24/96 download of the Grateful Dead's American Beauty.My GO 1000 has 1 white light on in the "lower" section (the one closer to the connection to the computer), and that's it. Isn't it supposed to show more lights to represent the sample rate of the track playing? Do I have something set wrong? (As an aside, the sound through the Heaven V is FABULOUS-the Dead aren't supposed to sound this good!!!).


----------



## Currawong

@doctorjazz It will show the sample rate the computer is sending out, not the track. If they are different, then your computer is re-sampling the output.


----------



## doctorjazz

Does this mean I'm set incorrectly somewhere? Using JRiver, thought I followed the directions, but wouldn't be unlike me to have not done something somewhere I needed to do.


----------



## eliwankenobi

doctorjazz said:


> OK, another question, maybe demonstrating my technical ignorance. I'm listening to HDTracks 24/96 download of the Grateful Dead's American Beauty.My GO 1000 has 1 white light on in the "lower" section (the one closer to the connection to the computer), and that's it. Isn't it supposed to show more lights to represent the sample rate of the track playing? Do I have something set wrong? (As an aside, the sound through the Heaven V is FABULOUS-the Dead aren't supposed to sound this good!!!).


  

  
 Quote:


doctorjazz said:


> Does this mean I'm set incorrectly somewhere? Using JRiver, thought I followed the directions, but wouldn't be unlike me to have not done something somewhere I needed to do.


 
  
 Hello doctorjazz
  
 It seems that even though you may have selected the GO1000 as the default device on Windows, and Jriver is either sending music to the *Default Device* or *Light Harmonic Driver (Direct Sound)* [Assuming such an option is available].  So to verify this do the following
  
 Playing the track on JRiver, move the pointer to the *Tools* icon (*1*) so playback info is shown.
  

  
 If you see something similar to what's on *"2"*, then your GO1000 is setup wrong in JRiver. JRiver is taking the sound and giving it to Windows (using Direct Sound) so Windows plays it back on the GO1000. So Windows will resample it to whatever is has setup on the devices properties. You can change that setting up to 24/192, but everything will be upsampling on Windows (not good option for that), and all system sounds will sound through there as well. Not good.  So Click on *Playback Options *
  

  
 Once on *Playback Options*, under *Audio Device* select the option *Light Harmonic (ASIO)* [or similar]. In this case since I don't anything connected to the PC, I will choose the internal soundcard identified as *High Definition Audio Device [WASAPI] *(another option to bypass windows mixer that works within Windows). 
  
 So after you select the GO1000, click OK/APPLY and play something now. Move the cursor to the *Tools* icon again. You should see on the Output that it is using *ASIO [direct connection] *and your GO1000 LED should reflect whatever sampling rate you send to it.
  
  

  
 hope this helps


----------



## TeLight

Regarding the android compatibility:
  
 I have a galaxy note 2, and like everyone else here geek out 450 did not work with my device when other USB DACs did. I posted this on the lhlabs forums detailing my problem (my DSD light was on, just like another person on here).
  
 Larry responded, saying that this is definitely a firmware issue in the Geek Out and the team at lhlabs is trying to solve the problem.


----------



## bhazard

telight said:


> Regarding the android compatibility:
> 
> I have a galaxy note 2, and like everyone else here geek out 450 did not work with my device when other USB DACs did. I posted this on the lhlabs forums detailing my problem (my DSD light was on, just like another person on here).
> 
> Larry responded, saying that this is definitely a firmware issue in the Geek Out and the team at lhlabs is trying to solve the problem.




Yep, mine does too. Glad to know they identified the issue and are working on it.


----------



## mattering

Just got my GO720 in the mail today and wow, I am really impressed with this DAC/AMP combo. I have listened to a couple songs on both my DT770 Pro and my HE-400 and the sound that it produced was amazing. Also, I thought that the 3D Awesomifier would be a gimmick but it works really well. Just an overall solid product. The GO likes to run really hot though so anyone know if we should be using it for hours or is there a max amount of time we should have it running.


----------



## eliwankenobi

mattering said:


> Just got my GO720 in the mail today and wow, I am really impressed with this DAC/AMP combo. I have listened to a couple songs on both my DT770 Pro and my HE-400 and the sound that it produced was amazing. Also, I thought that the 3D Awesomifier would be a gimmick but it works really well. Just an overall solid product. The GO likes to run really hot though so anyone know if we should be using it for hours or is there a max amount of time we should have it running.


 
 It should be safe as long as it is in a ventilated area for heat to dissipate off of GO.


----------



## zilch0md

*OK, it's time to accessorize my GO 1000 - even though it's not here yet!*
  
 When it arrives, I intend to keep it cool by running it on this heat sink:
  

  
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050MR8CG
  
 Here's the heat sink, under a CEntrance DACport LX:
  

  
 The DACport LX runs a _*lot*_ cooler this way, and I'm sure the GO will, too.
  
 In this photo, I'm also using an Anker battery pack to supply 5VDC power (up to 2 Amps), getting only data from the laptop's USB port - no noise!  I'll be doing the same with the GO 1000.
  

  

  
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031ESJ2S    (Currently out of stock at Amazon, but probably available elsewhere.)
  
 For the GO, with this cable, you would also need one of these (USB Female A To USB Mini Female B 5 Pin Adapter).  Ordered.
  
 -----------------------------
  
 I also have this cable, but it's a lot longer:
  

  
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013LSFJI    
  
 For the GO, with this cable, you would also need one of these or one of these (if you prefer black to pink) USB type B female to type A Female adapters.
  
 UPDATED on 12 October 2014 - I corrected the second of two links in the previous line.  Thanks Lohb!
  
 -----------------------------
  
 If you like the idea of eliminating potential noise from your laptop power, but don't want to mess with applying tape to the fourth pin of one of a USB A connector, as shown above, I highly recommend getting this TeraDak Teralink U9VA PSU, that includes an awesome cable for extracting only data from one USB port and only power from another.  For only $45.00, this is a steal.  And frankly, it's a noise-free 5V PSU.  I use it to power my Resonessence Concero when I don't feel like messing with my battery packs.  It's a great desktop regulated power supply for both 9V and 5V DC.  There's an adjustment screw inside that's preset to 8.5V output for the 9V jack, but you can fine-tune it to exactly what you want.  
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teralink-X2-X1-U9VA-Linear-Low-noise-Power-Supply-/261376799550
  





  




  

 Source:  http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/t.mpl?f=pcaudio&m=132922
  
  

 Source:  http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/t.mpl?f=pcaudio&m=132922
  
  
 This cable does the splitting of data and power for you - without having to put tape over the fourth pin of one connector - it's included with the TeraDak Teralink PSU.  (Worth $45 by itself, in my opinion.)
  
 For the GO, with this TeraDak cable, you would also need one of these or one of these (if you prefer blue to pink) USB type B female to type A Female adapters.
  
 Mike


----------



## vincent215

nice job @zilch0md! but that kills the point of a simple portable of the GO a little bit.
 I will try your heat shink idea, I love it!


----------



## FraGGleR

zilch0md said:


> *OK, it's time to accessorize my GO 1000 - even though it's not here yet!*
> 
> When it arrives, I intend to keep it cool by running it on this heat sink:
> 
> ...


 
 Great find, I was actually just thinking about doing something like that to cool my Geek down.


----------



## MikeyFresh

eliwankenobi said:


> It seems that even though you may have selected the GO1000 as the default device on Windows, and Jriver is either sending music to the *Default Device* or *Light Harmonic Driver (Direct Sound)* [Assuming such an option is available].  So to verify this do the following
> 
> Playing the track on JRiver, move the pointer to the *Tools* icon (*1*) so playback info is shown.
> 
> ...


 

 Nice screen shots, should be very helpful to the OP.
  
 This was also covered without screen shots in Posts 311-315.


----------



## eliwankenobi

mikeyfresh said:


> Nice screen shots, should be very helpful to the OP.
> 
> This was also covered without screen shots in Posts 311-315.


 
 Thank you!
  
 Print Screens are worth a thousand words!


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

So anybody tried it hooking up with a separate amp??


----------



## fran

GO1000 impressions:
 
Initial impression show this to be very capable. It can certainly drive my k701s no problem - somthing it has always taken desktop amps to drive adequately before (bear in mind I bought the 1W version, the geekout 1000). So it works very well with headphones. I've tested on both windows systems, and linux. It worked A1 on both systems, and I couldn't complain about either. 

 I've also tested it with a range of sample rates and it worked flawlessly with all I tried. Jplay ran out of steam before the player did, but reverting back to another player allowed it to play OK. I do think the 3D thing is a decent addition, especially for headphones, and has its place. I don't see myself using it too much, but hey, its free, included and works well. Whats to complain about.

 So how does it stack up. I gave it an unfair test - direct comparison via my main system(*) to John Kenny's jkdac32. It actually performed pretty well - now, the jkdac was better, and no doubt about it. But given that the geek was running off USB power and so on, I was impressed enough. I think giving the geek a clean power supply would improve it more. At the end of the day, that kinda goes against having something thats plug and play, so I probably won't bother doing that -but it could be done easily enough. The geek pulls just under half and amp steady so it would be hard on batteries. a shunt supply, or at least linear would probably be better. I don't know how audible the things that I'm aiming for would be with headphones anyway - soundstage cues etc. Cleaner bass and treble definitely.

 So I need to do more listening and give a bit more run in time before coming back to this. I'll probably rig up and external PSU to try as well just to see.

 Fran
  
 (*) modified CAPS zuma spec with linear supplies, GO1000, aikido valve preamp, broskie EL34 PP/triode mode amp - Eist Audio Dubh speakers.
  
 I used the 47r output as the input impedance of the pre is high.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## FraGGleR

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> So anybody tried it hooking up with a separate amp??


 
 Yep, running it into a Schiit Vali.  Tremendous combo, look back a little and you can see just a little bit of my early impressions.


----------



## doctorjazz

eliwankenobi said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > Does this mean I'm set incorrectly somewhere? Using JRiver, thought I followed the directions, but wouldn't be unlike me to have not done something somewhere I needed to do.
> ...


----------



## doctorjazz

Wait, I see, I get 48khz 32bit using 2 channel using ASIO Direct Connect, looks like that's what's going on, I'll try to correct it in a bit, thanks


----------



## eliwankenobi

doctorjazz said:


> Wait, I see, I get 48khz 32bit using 2 channel using ASIO Direct Connect, looks like that's what's going on, I'll try to correct it in a bit, thanks




Great! 

Go to the tool section again and click on "DSP Studio". Make sure that the box with sampling rates has "no change" on all of them. That way, whatever the sample rate is, the Geek will receive


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, tried to fix it, seems there are 4 options under Playback options that involve the Geek, Light Harmonic (ASIO), LH Labs Geek OUt (WASPI), Geek Out KD AudioIv0 (kernal Streaming), and LH Labs Geek OUt (Direct Sound). Three of the 4 tell me direct connection, one says it's not, but they all tell me the 96khz file I'm listening is being converted to 48khz. Can't seem to find why (I did have Geek in the settings initially, this is what I was getting). The GO 1000 still has 1 light whichever I set. Any ideas?


----------



## eliwankenobi

doctorjazz said:


> OK, tried to fix it, seems there are 4 options under Playback options that involve the Geek, Light Harmonic (ASIO), LH Labs Geek OUt (WASPI), Geek Out KD AudioIv0 (kernal Streaming), and LH Labs Geek OUt (Direct Sound). Three of the 4 tell me direct connection, one says it's not, but they all tell me the 96khz file I'm listening is being converted to 48khz. Can't seem to find why (I did have Geek in the settings initially, this is what I was getting). The GO 1000 still has 1 light whichever I set. Any ideas?




Please read my post above. Select the ASIO option. It is the preferred one as that one bypasses Windows completely.

Also, if you have DSD music, follow this post from a member over at the LHLabs forum: 

http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/geekout/1032-set-up-in-jriver.html#16657

It is similar to what we discussed here but includes some additional things to make sure DSD is sent natively.


----------



## citraian

Can someone tell me if the Windows volume control works for their Geek if ASIO or WASAPI are used?


----------



## doctorjazz

eliwankenobi said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > Wait, I see, I get 48khz 32bit using 2 channel using ASIO Direct Connect, looks like that's what's going on, I'll try to correct it in a bit, thanks
> ...




That was the problem, had to change to "no change" at all rates, thanks a lot!!!


----------



## eliwankenobi

doctorjazz said:


> That was the problem, had to change to "no change" at all rates, thanks a lot!!!




Awesome!! Kick back and enjoy!!

Now that you got it going, play with it a little bit. There are all sorts of things you can do with JRiver!


----------



## cat6man

bhazard said:


> Yep, mine does too. Glad to know they identified the issue and are working on it.


 
  
 YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## cat6man

Has anyone tried a GeekOut yet with a Raspberry Pi or OdroidU3?
  
 Both of these run linux (debian, ubuntu).
  
 I have a RPI, 2TB harddrive, powered usb hub and Meridian Explorer as my car music server.
 I'm in the process of replacing the RPI with the much more powerful OdroidU3.
  
 Clearly the GeekOut will need a separate source of power with the RPI, perhaps with the OdroidU3 also.


----------



## zilch0md

For those of us who _were not_ Kicstarter supporters, has anyone yet received a pre-ordered Geek Out?  
  
 I understood they wouldn't ship until May 1st, but I haven't been paying close attention...
  
 Thanks!
  
 Mike


----------



## jexby

^ Not I.
Nor any email confirmation when the pre order would ship.
I honestly am training my brain to forget the GO450 order in order to be less disappointed as delays happen.


----------



## zilch0md

zilch0md said:


> For those of us who _were not_ Kicstarter supporters, has anyone yet received a pre-ordered Geek Out?
> 
> I understood they wouldn't ship until May 1st, but I haven't been paying close attention...
> 
> ...


 
  


jexby said:


> ^ Not I.
> Nor any email confirmation when the pre order would ship.
> I honestly am training my brain to forget the GO450 order in order to be less disappointed as delays happen.


 
  
 Thanks for this reply - at least I know I'm not alone, but I find their "take the money and say nothing" approach rather disappointing. Not what I expected.
  
 I'm really good at being told "It will ship in six weeks" then going away and forgetting about it.  Silence I don't handle so well.
  
 Mike


----------



## longbowbbs

Send an E-mail to Manny  at cs@lhlabs.com


----------



## zilch0md

Thanks! I will...


----------



## kbal

I sent an email a while back and was told they should be shipped last week and into this week. But given that this may have been while they were inundated with emails it is possible that I was given the shipping dates for the kickstarter geek outs instead. I'm with you though in that I have had nothing since the transaction over paypal.


----------



## eliwankenobi

I just got mine!

I am replacing an Audioengine D1 that cost me $160 when it came out. Amazing how much better hardware you can get now for roughly the same price (I actually bought it at KS pre-order price!)  The GO 450 eats it for breakfast! I am loving it!! Amazing! Still on honeymoon period with it! Everything is exclamation points right now! need more time for my mind to settle down from all the excitement!


----------



## cat6man

telight said:


> Regarding the android compatibility:
> 
> I have a galaxy note 2, and like everyone else here geek out 450 did not work with my device when other USB DACs did. I posted this on the lhlabs forums detailing my problem (my DSD light was on, just like another person on here).
> 
> Larry responded, saying that this is definitely a firmware issue in the Geek Out and the team at lhlabs is trying to solve the problem.


 
  
 do you have a link pleaes?


----------



## zilch0md

eliwankenobi said:


> I just got mine!
> 
> I am replacing an Audioengine D1 that cost me $160 when it came out. Amazing how much better hardware you can get now for roughly the same price (I actually bought it at KS pre-order price!)  The GO 450 eats it for breakfast! I am loving it!! Amazing! Still on honeymoon period with it! Everything is exclamation points right now! need more time for my mind to settle down from all the excitement!


 
  
 Congratulations!  Were you a Kickstarter supporter -or- did you recently pre-order the Geek Out?
  
 (I've not yet received a response to the e-mail inquiry I sent to cs@lhlabs.com, yesterday (but it has only been 12 hours...)
  
 Thanks!
  
 Mike


----------



## eliwankenobi

zilch0md said:


> Congratulations!  Were you a Kickstarter supporter -or- did you recently pre-order the Geek Out?
> 
> (I've not yet received a response to the e-mail inquiry I sent to cs@lhlabs.com, yesterday (but it has only been 12 hours...)
> 
> ...




I bought if from another user who was a backer. I would have liked to be a KS supporter but came in late to the party. I do am a PulseX backer for a fully tricked out unit. I didn't buy the combo because for me it was either the combo with the GO or the LPS and other upgrades. I put my money on the upgrades, so I feel lucky I was able to buy a 450 now, at a moment in which I could afford one.


----------



## zilch0md

Roger that - enjoy!


----------



## Matias

Does anybody have experience with the GO1000 driving Sennheiser HD800? Does the GO1000 have enough power? Is its resolution OK or the HD800 asks for more? Enough warm to balance the HD800 brightness?
 I saw Larry Ho using this combo in the video, but I fear if the phones are too much for the little Geek Out?


----------



## longbowbbs

matias said:


> Does anybody have experience with the GO1000 driving Sennheiser HD800? Does the GO1000 have enough power? Is its resolution OK or the HD800 asks for more? Enough warm to balance the HD800 brightness?
> I saw Larry Ho using this combo in the video, but I fear if the phones are too much for the little Geek Out?


 
 GO1000 works great with the HD800's. Generally at about 65% of volume I am listening comfortably. 85% when I am enjoying rock or metal. The resolution is very good and improving as I get some hours on the unit. No worries on its ability.


----------



## zilch0md

matias said:


> *Does anybody have experience with the GO1000 driving Sennheiser HD800?*


 
  
 Yes, several people do.
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/newsearch/?search=HD800&resultSortingPreference=recency&byuser=&output=posts&sdate=0&newer=1&type=all&containingthread%5B0%5D=711267&advanced=1


----------



## Matias

Thanks to both. What I really want to know is if the HD800 is "too much" for the GO1000? Or in other words, even though both units match well in balance (tonality), is the HD800 in a class too much above the GO1000 so that it would not be using its full potential?


----------



## longbowbbs

matias said:


> Thanks to both. What I really want to know is if the HD800 "too much" for the GO1000? Or in other words, even though both units match well in balance (tonality), is the HD800 in a class too much above the GO1000 so that it would not be using its full potential?


 
 Ultimately, you are wondering if a $299 retail Dac/Amp can bring the HD800 to full bloom.....
  
  
 No....
  
  
 It is a nice portable choice though. Considering I am running the HD800's through a fully tricked out Wyred 4 Sound DAC2 DSDse with Femto clock and a Cary SLI-80 fully modded out to F1 specs, the GO1000 cannot compete with that rig. However, I am not in the habit of taking those pieces on the road. The geek fits nicely in the backpack. More time with the HD800's is a good thing.
  
 YMMV.....


----------



## zilch0md

longbowbbs said:


> Ultimately, you are wondering if a $299 retail Dac/Amp can bring the HD800 to full bloom.....
> 
> 
> No....
> ...


 
  
 Haha!  So _THAT'S_ what it takes to make an HD800 sound good!   (No wonder mine sounds so bad!)


----------



## longbowbbs

zilch0md said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > Ultimately, you are wondering if a $299 retail Dac/Amp can bring the HD800 to full bloom.....
> ...


 
 I don't know it that is what it takes....But it doesn't hurt!


----------



## zilch0md

longbowbbs said:


> Send an E-mail to Manny  at cs@lhlabs.com




That worked:



> Thank you for placing an Order with us here at LH Labs for a Geek Out. *We will begin shipping pre-orders in the first week of May.* You will receive an email with tracking information once the unit leaves the facility. Thank you.




Thanks!


----------



## longbowbbs

zilch0md said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > Send an E-mail to Manny  at cs@lhlabs.com
> ...


 
 Glad to help. I had to ask a few questions myself.


----------



## LightBrightSZ

Hi man, I'm in the UK, mine are on the way, can't wait no longer!!! Have you tried them with IEMs by any chance? What's is it like?


----------



## longbowbbs

lightbrightsz said:


> Hi man, I'm in the UK, mine are on the way, can't wait no longer!!! Have you tried them with IEMs by any chance? What's is it like?


 
 I have used the GO1000 with my JH Audio JH16 Freq Phase CIEM's and it is a good match. The one thing to remember is that this is a powerful Class A amp and you want to make sure thou have the correct volume levels before you put the CIEM's in your ears. It could be very loud!


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Good!! Can't to wait give it a hear with my UM Mentor...


----------



## eliwankenobi

longbowbbs said:


> I have used the GO1000 with my JH Audio JH16 Freq Phase CIEM's and it is a good match. The one thing to remember is that this is a powerful Class A amp and you want to make sure thou have the correct volume levels before you put the CIEM's in your ears. It could be very loud!


 
 I agree!!
  
 I made the mistake of set JRiver to "application volume" and when I put a DSD file which JRiver bitstreams, the volume went on full blast!!  It was painfully loud! my ears hurt for a while after that!!  
  
 Take care of your ears!! They are what let us enjoy this hobby!!


----------



## frankrondaniel

Even with a GO450 I wasn't paying attention and blasted my ears - really gotta be careful with this thing!


----------



## eliwankenobi

Yeah! A 450 is what I have too


----------



## mtruong34

After receiving my GO450 today, I sat down for some critical listening.  Within the first 5 minutes, I blasted my ears 3 times.  This volume control implementation is TERRIBLE.  Love the SQ but I'm ditching this thing because my ears are too important to destroy.


----------



## raisedbywolves

mtruong34 said:


> After receiving my GO450 today, I sat down for some critical listening.  Within the first 5 minutes, I blasted my ears 3 times.  This volume control implementation is TERRIBLE.  Love the SQ but I'm ditching this thing because my ears are too important to destroy.


 

 this is really concerning to me. anyone else dealing with this?


----------



## yungyaw

raisedbywolves said:


> this is really concerning to me. anyone else dealing with this?


 
  
 Guys, the volume implementation of Geek Out is not terrible. It's just different from most other DACs. I posted the behaviour of GO's volume control a few posts back. You can check it out here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/677263/light-harmonic-geek/675#post_10488024
  
 If you are a Mac user, you may want to check out this setup guide too: http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/geekout/1040-geek-101-macintosh-set-up-guide.html
  
 And here's the user manual for Geek Out (yes, GO has a user manual, despite a very simple one): http://geek.lhlabs.com/downloads/Geek_Out_User_Manual_Version_2014_04_08.pdf
  
 Hope you can give GO a little more time before deciding to let go this wonderful gem.


----------



## mtruong34

Logically, one would either control volume by OS or buttons - a) set OS at 100%, adjust with GO buttons  b)  set GO at 100% and adjust OS volume.  It wouldn't make much sense to set intermediate values for each.  For safety reasons, option a) is out of the question.  Therefore, the only viable option is b).  In my opinion, that is a TERRIBLE implementation.  Design for 2 options, 1 option is potentially dangerous.


----------



## yungyaw

mtruong34 said:


> Logically, one would either control volume by OS or buttons - a) set OS at 100%, adjust with GO buttons  b)  set GO at 100% and adjust OS volume.  It wouldn't make much sense to set intermediate values for each.  For safety reasons, option a) is out of the question.  Therefore, the only viable option is b).  In my opinion, that is a TERRIBLE implementation.  Design for 2 options, 1 option is potentially dangerous.


 
  
 Like I mentioned, the implementation here is different from others. In many other DACs, we are advised to set the OS/player volume to 100% in order to preserve as much digital information as possible and then adjust the volume using the DAC's volume control (if the DAC has physical volume control).
  
 With the Geek Out implementation, the OS volume control and DAC volume control basically control the same volume setting, which is the Master volume. However, the OS volume control can be considered as primary control and Geek Out as secondary control where priority is given to the OS volume control. Eg. If you set the OS volume to 50% and then further adjust the volume on Geek Out to 55%, the changes will only affect Geek Out internal volume setting but the OS volume level will not change to reflect the new volume setting. However if you later adjust the OS volume from 50% to 51%, Geek Out volume will always follow the OS volume level and set it 51%. This is because Geek Out will always retrieve the latest volume setting from OS whenever there are changes or power cycle.
  
 The key here is you don't set any volume to 100%. I will recommend you to always use the OS volume setting only unless you need finer adjustment of the volume setting, then you can use Geek Out volume button to do the minor adjustment.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

That is why in every purchase. I read the instructions / manual first. Especially anything colored red or yellow. 

Sent from my SM-P605 using Tapatalk


----------



## junker

Haha exactly. :basshead:

Basically I just adjust the DAC volume from my player and check that it isn't full blast before hitting play.


----------



## mtruong34

Yungyaw,
  
 Thank you for the great in-depth explanation.  Which also kinda proves my point.  The volume control implementation is counter-intuitive, finicky, over-complicated and buggy.  I haven't even gotten to the 3D- awesomifier.  It sometimes causes volume jumps when activated/deactivated.  It also resets the volume to some low value and then jumps again when volume is changed.
  
 Another point is that the GO is supposed to bring audiophile to the masses. Do the masses generally visit forums like head-fi and dig through pages of posts to figure out how to safely use the volume control?


----------



## zilch0md

yungyaw said:


> Like I mentioned, the implementation here is different from others. In many other DACs, we are advised to set the OS/player volume to 100% in order to preserve as much digital information as possible and then adjust the volume using the DAC's volume control (if the DAC has physical volume control).
> 
> With the Geek Out implementation, the OS volume control and DAC volume control basically control the same volume setting, which is the Master volume. However, the OS volume control can be considered as primary control and Geek Out as secondary control where priority is given to the OS volume control. Eg. If you set the OS volume to 50% and then further adjust the volume on Geek Out to 55%, the changes will only affect Geek Out internal volume setting but the OS volume level will not change to reflect the new volume setting. However if you later adjust the OS volume from 50% to 51%, Geek Out volume will always follow the OS volume level and set it 51%. This is because Geek Out will always retrieve the latest volume setting from OS whenever there are changes or power cycle.
> 
> *The key here is you don't set any volume to 100%. I will recommend you to always use the OS volume setting only unless you need finer adjustment of the volume setting, then you can use Geek Out volume button to do the minor adjustment. *


 
  
 Thank your for explaining this so clearly - I do appreciate your advice. But...  
  
 This is indeed a terrible design.  
  
 What you're saying (and again, I can see that it's really good advice), is that we always have to operate at less than maximum bit depth in order to protect our ears (without an otherwise strict adherence to a safety checklist, whenever my headphones are plugged into the jack). If we leave the OS set to 100% (where it really belongs for any DAC, including the GO), it's just a matter of time before we damage our gear or our ears. And the crazy thing is that there are physical volume control buttons on the device.
  


mtruong34 said:


> Yungyaw,
> 
> Thank you for the great in-depth explanation.  Which also kinda proves my point.  The volume control implementation is counter-intuitive, finicky, over-complicated and buggy.  I haven't even gotten to the 3D- awesomifier.  It sometimes causes volume jumps when activated/deactivated.  It also resets the volume to some low value and then jumps again when volume is changed.
> 
> Another point is that the GO is supposed to bring audiophile to the masses. Do the masses generally visit forums like head-fi and dig through pages of posts to figure out how to safely use the volume control?


 
  
 +1 (and I don't even have it yet.)
  
 I'm not going to cancel my order.  I want to hear the GO.  But it's going to have to sound superb for me to put up with the lame design.  
  
 Then again, if it sounds as good as I believe it will (going on the consensus response), I might find myself having a good reason to get one of these:  
  





  




  
 http://www.markertek.com/Audio-Equipment/Speakers/Volume-Controls/SM-Pro-Audio/NANO-PATCH.xhtml
  
 This is an opportunity - not a problem.
  




  
 Mike


----------



## LightBrightSZ

yungyaw said:


> Guys, the volume implementation of Geek Out is not terrible. It's just different from most other DACs. I posted the behaviour of GO's volume control a few posts back. You can check it out here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/677263/light-harmonic-geek/675#post_10488024
> 
> If you are a Mac user, you may want to check out this setup guide too: http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/geekout/1040-geek-101-macintosh-set-up-guide.html
> 
> ...


 
  
 Just got my GO720 - thanks for the info above that helped out a lot I'm not having any volume issues. I have to say though the implementation of the software and hardware of the volume buttons is really bad, they should not have bothered putting any physical buttons it confuses people lol.
  
 P.S - I don't review things but listening to it for the past 1hr I'm impressed, this thing is crazy for a little bugger!!!


----------



## FraGGleR

The volume thing is a little funny.  Why have analog volume control and tout it as a selling point (one which I was excited for), and then have the weirdness with computer control.  I will admit, though that it is pretty convenient to use quick key volume control instead of fumbling with the tiny buttons.  I had really wanted the analog volume control for use with Android since it has been hit or miss.  Unfortunately, I have zero functionality with Android at this point so the analog volume control is a moot consideration.
  
 In the end, I simply don't touch the device once up and running.  No need to.  I don't have ears good enough to hear a loss of a bit or two (and aren't we starting with enough bits to minimize this loss anyways?) so I am fine.  
  
 On a happy note, this thing sounds good enough to me and better enough over the competing products that I have heard in this class to ignore its shortcomings.  It sounds very good directly driving my HD650s, pretty good driving my HD800s, and extremely good driving my modded T20RPs.  It gives me bass and clarity that I've been struggling to get with mods alone.  With the HD800s, it gives me detail and spatial cues in spades, not holding the HD800 back, but doesn't give me any warmth that the HD800s really need just a touch of (Schiit Vali solves this).  The HD650s are a great, balanced match.  Once upon a time, if I had heard this combo first, I don't know if I ever would have fallen down this slippery slope.  The entry level is easily better than mid-fi was just 5 years ago.  Folks just getting started now are super spoiled.


----------



## LightBrightSZ

fraggler said:


> The volume thing is a little funny.  Why have analog volume control and tout it as a selling point (one which I was excited for), and then have the weirdness with computer control.  I will admit, though that it is pretty convenient to use quick key volume control instead of fumbling with the tiny buttons.  I had really wanted the analog volume control for use with Android since it has been hit or miss.  Unfortunately, I have zero functionality with Android at this point so the analog volume control is a moot consideration.
> 
> In the end, I simply don't touch the device once up and running.  No need to.  I don't have ears good enough to hear a loss of a bit or two (and aren't we starting with enough bits to minimize this loss anyways?) so I am fine.
> 
> On a happy note, this thing sounds good enough to me and better enough over the competing products that I have heard in this class to ignore its shortcomings.  It sounds very good directly driving my HD650s, pretty good driving my HD800s, and extremely good driving my modded T20RPs.  It gives me bass and clarity that I've been struggling to get with mods alone.  With the HD800s, it gives me detail and spatial cues in spades, not holding the HD800 back, but doesn't give me any warmth that the HD800s really need just a touch of (Schiit Vali solves this).  The HD650s are a great, balanced match.  Once upon a time, if I had heard this combo first, I don't know if I ever would have fallen down this slippery slope.  The entry level is easily better than mid-fi was just 5 years ago.  Folks just getting started now are super spoiled.


 
  
 What music did you listen to? It's dealing with progressive Trance amazingly well.


----------



## junker

Properly set-up the OS volume controls the digital volume control in the ESS DAC. In this case it preferable adjust your DAC from the OS or your music player application - it would be the same output considerations you would have playing to any headphones, active speakers, amps, etc.
  
 With the 32-bit volume control in the ESS DAC it is recommended that you do not attenuate more than -24dB w/ 24-bit material or you start dropping bits. It's -48dB with 16 but material. But obviously less is more!


----------



## CEE TEE

*Warning: Ongoing dispatches and rambling.*  Further listening and I really love the GO 1000 with HD800 for classical music and ability with Audirvana+ to be able to play any files. Resolution with dynamism and enough impact and some "liquidity" to the sound.
  
 With bright pop and rock though, the GO doesn't add warmth or tame brightness. The energy in the treble can be a bit much- tonality does suffer at times with HD800. But there's enough going for the combo that it will stick around.  (BTW, Geek Out 1000 into Vali does not tame the treble either and there is some loss of resolution with the pairing.)
  
General thing:  I still have some pops and clicks here and there. Not sure if I need a better/firmer cable connection or where that comes from, exactly.  More difficult to listen to the clicks/pops with IEMs.
  
 Speaking of IEMs, I am still running through combos with my UERM.  They are the IEMs I use 90% of the time. I can go ODAC to Leckerton, Geek Out to Leckerton, Geek Out by itself...1000 or 450.  Haven't tried all combos yet.
  
 Tonight, I was trying just the Geek Out 450 and 1000 into UERM.  The GO 450 with UERM can be a bit bright and the 1000 can seem a little muted in the mids to upper mids when comparing directly. I need to try the 1000 by itself again later in case my impression is influenced too much by the brighter 450.  The 1000 allows for me to hear more extension in the bass and more weight, that or the music I was listening to led me to assess it as better at first. Many will be happy with one or the other and their phones, I'm sure.
  
 I may end up appreciating one of the Geek Outs feeding the Leck 6S to UERM better.  Then it will be a showdown between 450, 1000, & ODAC into 6S.
  
I was hoping to use just the Geek Out 1000 for HD800 + UERM and for it to sound great with <everything>. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Some impressive performance and resolution (and price!) but tonality not quite perfect enough to let me get rid of everything else just yet...


----------



## Zoo Animal

cee tee said:


> General thing:  I still have some pops and clicks here and there. Not sure if I need a better/firmer cable connection or where that comes from, exactly.  More difficult to listen to the clicks/pops with IEMs.


 

 On the Mac, this can be a good sign that you've picked a less than optimal USB port. Basic stuff but always worth checking


----------



## CEE TEE

^Thanks, I have been trying to use the one on the right side...away from the power connector.  Will try both and see if one performs better than the other.


----------



## Zoo Animal

cee tee said:


> ^Thanks, I have been trying to use the one on the right side...away from the power connector.  Will try both and see if one performs better than the other.


 

 Are you on an Macbook Air?

 You can use the system profiler to get a better view of whats going on with the USB on your particular machine...there is a good over-view here.
 http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/geekout/1040-geek-101-macintosh-set-up-guide.html
  
 One other thought is this could happen if you were using a USB external drive along with USB dac...typically you would want your external drive on Firewire, Thunderbolt or Ethernet


----------



## zilch0md

cee tee said:


> [snip]
> 
> General thing:  I still have some pops and clicks here and there. Not sure if I need a better/firmer cable connection or where that comes from, exactly.  More difficult to listen to the clicks/pops with IEMs.
> 
> [snip]


 
  


zoo animal said:


> On the Mac, this can be a good sign that you've picked a less than optimal USB port. Basic stuff but always worth checking


 
  


cee tee said:


> ^Thanks, I have been trying to use the one on the right side...away from the power connector.  Will try both and see if one performs better than the other.


 
  
 I would just go for a clean, external, power source:  http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-and-appreciation-thread/375#post_10489140
  
 (at the expense of convenience...)


----------



## CEE TEE

Wow, I appreciate the help as I was concentrating on sound... Yes, I have 1TB or 2TB USB drives that I am trying to use at the same time. That may be the problem. I bought the Seagate Wireless Plus before travelling a few weeks ago but have found that while I can use it to wirelessly stream movies to 3 devices simultaneously- it wants to stream lower resolution music and standard files through the Seagate App. I do have some local files or pull music onto the Air at times and those are the ones that are probably clean with the Geek. Darn. Will need to see if there is a workaround way to stream wirelessly or now get a Thunderbolt drive.

Using off-board power for the Geek is much more cumbersome. I do have a prototype Doodlebug that I need to test out though, so I can also try that avenue. Much obliged, Gents!


----------



## amham

Received my GO 720 today.  At first I had a heck of a time trying to figure out the volume.  Glad this thread clarified it for me. Seems to me that the GO internal volume should be set to a maximum (without distortion) and the OS should control the volume.   Now, I agree with most that has been said.   It is just a bit on the bright side, not objectionable but titled in that direction.  Using HD800's and listening to Time Out DSD64 via Audirvana+, did I hear a couple of clicks? Not sure but listening very closely and if there are any they are very intermittent (of course, there should be none).  I'm somewhat troubled by the max volume necessary to listen at my normal "detailed" volume level.  A+ is set at -10db.  This seems to indicate that the max volume output is just a few db's up.  Is this correct or do I have the volume messed up still?  Overall nice tone and detail, a "keeper".  However I'm having difficulty getting the USB to fit tight enough to stay put either with the extension or directly into my MAC Pro Retina.


----------



## FraGGleR

amham said:


> Received my GO 720 today.  At first I had a heck of a time trying to figure out the volume.  Glad this thread clarified it for me. Seems to me that the GO internal volume should be set to a maximum (without distortion) and the OS should control the volume.   Now, I agree with most that has been said.   It is just a bit on the bright side, not objectionable but titled in that direction.  Using HD800's and listening to Time Out DSD64 via Audirvana+, did I hear a couple of clicks? Not sure but listening very closely and if there are any they are very intermittent (of course, there should be none).  I'm somewhat troubled by the max volume necessary to listen at my normal "detailed" volume level.  A+ is set at -10db.  This seems to indicate that the max volume output is just a few db's up.  Is this correct or do I have the volume messed up still?  Overall nice tone and detail, a "keeper".  However I'm having difficulty getting the USB to fit tight enough to stay put either with the extension or directly into my MAC Pro Retina.


 
 I can only get to 50% before getting my HD800s up to "way too loud" on my Go 450 on Windows 8.1.  Not familiar enough with Macs to help with your settings, but either you listen much louder than I or your settings are off.
  
 Also, the more I listen, the more I like it with the T20RPs and the HD650s, but just a bit too lean with the HD800s.  Great resolution, detail, etc., just not enough heft to be a perfect match.  Only a touch disappointed since the HD800 was one of the reference headphones - I had hoped for a slightly more synergistic pairing.  I hope that the Pulse X will be a touch weightier with the larger power supplies.


----------



## junker

IMO Just reseat the DAC to reset the Geek volume and only control via the OS / A+.
  
 They both control the 64-step volume control built-in to the ESS Sabre but from what I understand by adjusting it from the DAC the volume position is not reflected in the "OS". Much better to just control from one place (the source).
  
 Once you are driving from A+ or the OS please let us know what your attenuation is.
  
 Properly set-up the OS, A+, and Audio MIDI set-up volumes all move in lock-step and in real-time. 
  
 Here check this out... it might help out:
  
 http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/geekout/1040-geek-101-macintosh-set-up-guide.html
 http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/geekout/1040-geek-101-macintosh-set-up-guide.html#18040


----------



## amham

fraggler said:


> amham said:
> 
> 
> > Received my GO 720 today.  At first I had a heck of a time trying to figure out the volume.  Glad this thread clarified it for me. Seems to me that the GO internal volume should be set to a maximum (without distortion) and the OS should control the volume.   Now, I agree with most that has been said.   It is just a bit on the bright side, not objectionable but titled in that direction.  Using HD800's and listening to Time Out DSD64 via Audirvana+, did I hear a couple of clicks? Not sure but listening very closely and if there are any they are very intermittent (of course, there should be none).  I'm somewhat troubled by the max volume necessary to listen at my normal "detailed" volume level.  A+ is set at -10db.  This seems to indicate that the max volume output is just a few db's up.  Is this correct or do I have the volume messed up still?  Overall nice tone and detail, a "keeper".  However I'm having difficulty getting the USB to fit tight enough to stay put either with the extension or directly into my MAC Pro Retina.
> ...


 
 Of course, each recorded track/album is recorded at differing levels so my volume level is specific to only this recording.  However, I do not listen at loud/elevated levels.  Checking the A+ setup again...seems I still do not have the hang of this GO volume thingy...If I raise the volume using the GO button and then change the A+ volume the overall volume drops right down.  Then need to adjust the GO buttons again up.  So I can't use the operating system volume to control the overall level, it drops the GO down significantly.  What's happening here???


----------



## Zoo Animal

amham said:


> Received my GO 720 today.  At first I had a heck of a time trying to figure out the volume.  Glad this thread clarified it for me. Seems to me that the GO internal volume should be set to a maximum (without distortion) and the OS should control the volume.   Now, I agree with most that has been said.   It is just a bit on the bright side, not objectionable but titled in that direction.  Using HD800's and listening to Time Out DSD64 via Audirvana+, did I hear a couple of clicks? Not sure but listening very closely and if there are any they are very intermittent (of course, there should be none).  I'm somewhat troubled by the max volume necessary to listen at my normal "detailed" volume level.  A+ is set at -10db.  This seems to indicate that the max volume output is just a few db's up.  Is this correct or do I have the volume messed up still?  Overall nice tone and detail, a "keeper".  However I'm having difficulty getting the USB to fit tight enough to stay put either with the extension or directly into my MAC Pro Retina.


 
  
  
 Out of the box, I found it to tend that direction too. It did mellow/warm with play time(50-75 hours), and this was one of the early GO1000s that Larry had already put some good hours on testing. I would recommend getting some hours on yours before you come to a complete conclusion about where it's matching up best.

 With proper USB port and mac/player settings sorted, I get a click when engaging the awesomifier but that is about it. Not adjusting volume or any other playback.


----------



## audiofrk

does any one have an ak 240? and if so how does the geek out compared?  I know there in two different product categories but the comparison might give a baseline to how the geek wave might stack up to it.
  
 also I am interested  (obviously if possible) if anyone can post there thoughts on how it stacks up against the resonessence concero hp.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Wait for the dual-mono Geek Wave next week. There we will have some competition...


----------



## audiofrk

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Wait for the dual-mono Geek Wave next week. There we will have some competition...


 

 went to the indiegogo page but didn't see an option for this update.


----------



## AxelCloris

The update should be coming sometime during the week.


----------



## audiofrk

this raises a question will the dual mono geek wave be a better deal than the geek pulse xf?
  
 Their digital to analog circuitry should be the same (assuming the femtoclock upgrade also made the list), and using line out and some good cables, the audio output should be the same for any set-up.  However the geek wave will be battery powered while the geek pulse xf will use AC power, thus without further upgrades to the geek pulse (LPS and/or geek blue) the geek wave would be the better deal.  True pricing has yet to be set, but not only is the geek wave more versatile (portable and compatible with more operating systems iOS, OSX, Android, Windows) it also comes with onboard memory and the duet engine that was left out of the geek out and geek pulse. I was intrigued when some user reported using the geek out + ifi iusbpower together to reduce jitter from the computer thinking this could be a low cost alternative to the geek pulse + LPS set up for us that didn't manage/couldn't support the indiegogo project but it seems there is still better deals on the horizon.


----------



## mink70

I got my GO 720, and am hearing a sputtering hum when the 3D circuit is engaged. I can hear it clearly with the music off, and it's not subtle. I can hear through my full-size headphones (AT-W3000ANV). The unit is dead quiet with the 3D circuit off.


----------



## mink70

Another not-so-cool discovery: with the 3D circuit on, when I adjust the volume in Audirvana +, moving the volume dial sends a kind of ripping sounds through the headphones. This happens plugged into both of the USB ports in the MacBook Pro. With the 3D circuit off, there's no noise and no ripping sound. 
  
 The real shame is that the 3D crossfeed circuit in the GO is the best I've ever heard, with no audible penalty in clarity and a really subtle, pleasant spacial effect.


----------



## Zoo Animal

mink70 said:


> Another not-so-cool discovery: with the 3D circuit on, when I adjust the volume in Audirvana +, moving the volume dial sends a kind of ripping sounds through the headphones. This happens plugged into both of the USB ports in the MacBook Pro. With the 3D circuit off, there's no noise and no ripping sound.
> 
> The real shame is that the 3D crossfeed circuit in the GO is the best I've ever heard, with no audible penalty in clarity and a really subtle, pleasant spacial effect.


 
  
 There is a thread on the LH labs forum dealing with 3D issues. If you want to provide feedback, leaving as much info about your chain from computer down to phones would likely help.
  
 It was a welcome surprise to find how very subtle it is, I haven't had any noise issues and it is actually a good addition.


----------



## CEE TEE

WOW.   
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





   Geek Out 1000 > *HD600*.   This is the combo that I was looking for.  I have my open, transportable rig.


----------



## longbowbbs

cee tee said:


> WOW.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 I am rocking the GO1000 and my HD650's right now. Fantastic setup. I am using Audirvana+ with some great DSD and 24/192 FLAC files......


----------



## eliwankenobi

I wonder if anyone has had the chance to listen to the hd600 with a GO450.
  
 I will probably return my viso hp50s and get those.  I know it's gonna be a different ball game when my pulse arrives and plan on running them balanced.


----------



## yungyaw

This is my very simple and basic solution to help reduce some heat off the feverish Geek Out 1000.
  
 I got this aluminum heat sink from a local electronic store. I didn’t measure the dimension of the Geek Out before buying this heat sink but when I got home and put them together, the length is just nice. The best thing is it matches the colour of my silver Geek Out, as if they are manufactured from same block of aluminum.
  
 After attaching the heat sink, I see a drop of 10C° (from 50C° to 40C°) in temperature with just passive cooling. It also dissipates heat faster when I turn on the air conditioning.
  
 I need to get Velcro straps or some neat solution to secure the Geek Out on the heat sink to avoid scratching the surface from movement friction.


----------



## miceblue

50C°!?!? Holy crap that's hot...


----------



## Larry Ho

Hi. 

I read all these nice feedback for volume control. 
What we design is to let computer become volume setting host once it has changed. So the volume setting inside GO will be reset to computers. 
We will redesign this volume setting mechanism to make more natural to users. And this will be firmware upgradable. 

In the mean time, welcome any good ideas. 

Thanks


----------



## eliwankenobi

larry ho said:


> Hi.
> 
> I read all these nice feedback for volume control.
> What we design is to let computer become volume setting host once it has changed. So the volume setting inside GO will be reset to computers.
> ...




Thank you Larry!

I think if it can be configured so it is an option in the driver, and have it default so that GO volume is separate from OS volume would be more intuitive for users


----------



## Matias

I don't trust the system volume. More than once it happened to me with my desktop system that because of some Windows update that just put the volume to max again and almost blew my speakers. Plus I almost had a heart attack. I hate this and I became paranoid with the volume ever since.
  
 A independent volume based on the device and that never maxes out would be nice.


----------



## Currawong

audiofrk said:


> does any one have an ak 240? and if so how does the geek out compared?  I know there in two different product categories but the comparison might give a baseline to how the geek wave might stack up to it.
> 
> also I am interested  (obviously if possible) if anyone can post there thoughts on how it stacks up against the resonessence concero hp.


 
  
 My AK240 is closer to my Master 7 in sound quality, even when I use the best set-up possible with a separate power supply with the Geek Out, which makes the music sound a bit flat in comparison.


----------



## mtruong34

My Geek Out 450 with Windows 7 resets to max volume every time it is unplugged from the USB port despite the OS setting. I always set the Master at -50. But what's interesting is that although after plugging in the Geek, the LH Control Panel shows max 0dB but the actual volume through the headphones is the same as I left it, at -50. But here's the catch. If the the up physical volume button or 3D is activated, the volume out of the headphones immediately blasts to max. That's the dangerous part and that's when I have blasted my ears again the past few days thinking the volume level is safe when it actually isn't. You have to check the LH control panel continuously to be safe. This is a bug and LH needs to fix asap and please don't keep posting that it's user error and that's the way it's supposed to work.


----------



## FraGGleR

larry ho said:


> Hi.
> 
> I read all these nice feedback for volume control.
> What we design is to let computer become volume setting host once it has changed. So the volume setting inside GO will be reset to computers.
> ...




To be honest, I've grown to like using the system volume keys on my keyboard to adjust the volume. The only time I have issues is when I am trying to toggle the 3d and miss hit the buttons. I also unplug it when not listening due to the heat which let's the OS take over at the proper settings. I control when my computer updates, so problems there.

Larry, I would suggest a firmware option to let users pick which way to control the volume and then default to that. If I choose Windows control then the buttons are disabled and it never maxes out as a Windows default. If users prefer using the buttons, set it to max in Windows and let the device remember where the volume is.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Geek Out 1000 Red
 Date Shipped: April 13. 2014
 Date Received: May 6, 2014 (Hey Poste Italiane it was 23 Days! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)
  
 Mandatory Pics (serial # changed)
  

  

  

  
 Observations:
 1. Man it has some dammed authority (Even NIB, no break-in)! It slams *everything* with conviction! For a $199 "Chiclets" sized DAC its very very nice!
  
 2. You know what if you have set everything....the volume implementation is wicked! I don't have to touch the unit. I just play the volume with my mouse. Just DON'T TOUCH  :lol: . I'll try to explore on this more. 

3. Need to have the correct setup: (Win 7 x64 Ult., JRiver MC19)
Installed driver, chose as default in CP, chose as audio device (ASIO) in MC19 and play....Sound w/ NOISE! Ah! forgot to tick DOP in Device Settings in MC19. Now we're playin!. Let me see if I upsample in 2x DSD DOP...It works! Now let me try DSD128. Hey why there are glitches its DSD128 capable??? Oh forgot setting Bitstreaming to DSD....

4. Its Hot. Not overly hot. At your initial touch it seems hot but if you really grab it, you can.
  
5. One thing I like with JRiver is that you can upsample. Like the picture above. Playing a 24bit 192Khz file and GO1000 displays DSD 2X. 




  
 Need to confirm that noise they've been saying. So far none. I'll wait tonight. And Android too.
  
 Playing it now with my UM Mentor Universals with 24awg pure silver from HPL Audio.


----------



## zilch0md

yungyaw said:


> This is my very simple and basic solution to help reduce some heat off the feverish Geek Out 1000.
> 
> [snip]


 
  
 Great minds think alike!  
  
 See my post from 11 days ago for a smaller heat sink - that's probably too long, but probably easier to carry, too.
  
  
  


larry ho said:


> Hi.
> 
> I read all these nice feedback for volume control.
> What we design is to let computer become volume setting host once it has changed. So the volume setting inside GO will be reset to computers.
> ...


 
  
 Thank you Larry!  That's great news - especially that it will be fixed in firmware, but I don't understand what you mean by "more natural to users."  
  


eliwankenobi said:


> Thank you Larry!
> 
> I think if it can be configured so it is an option in the driver, and have it default so that GO volume is separate from OS volume would be more intuitive for users


 
  
@Larry Ho  Yes, please!  
  
 In my opinion... If at all possible....
  
 1) The GO's volume control buttons should act just like a volume control knob on an analog amp - when you use the GO's buttons, there should be no impact on the system volume setting.
  
 2) Better still, when powering up, the GO's output volume should be set to wherever the user had it last - just like an analog amp's volume control knob that doesn't move when the amp is powered off and back on.  
  
 3) If it's not possible to remember the user's volume setting after powering down, just power it up with the volume set to 0 (zero) - that's a lot safer than any other alternative.
  
 4) Ideally, when the GO first powers up, having reset its volume to zero (or to the user's last setting, if possible), as with many other USB DACs, the GO should also set the system volume to 100% (maximum bit depth) but have no impact on system volume thereafter - allowing the user to trim it, if desired, which, of course, would lower the output volume (and the bit depth).
  


matias said:


> I don't trust the system volume. More than once it happened to me with my desktop system that because of some Windows update that just put the volume to max again and almost blew my speakers. Plus I always had a heart attack. I hate this and I became paranoid with the volume ever since.
> 
> A independent volume based on the device and that never maxes out would be nice.


 
  
 Amen!
  
@Larry Ho  This is a pessimistic question, given your intent to improve things with a firmware update, but *to your knowledge, could one of the following analog volume control products be used downstream (between the GO and the headphones)? *  This is what I will feel compelled to try, if my pre-ordered GO arrives before a firmware solution is available. * I am not going to put either my ears or my headphones at risk of using the GO as it functions currently.*
  


Spoiler: Analog volume controls I've considered...








 http://www.amazon.com/TC-Electronic-Level-Pilot-Computer-Independent/dp/B001PGMNRG
  
  




 http://www.amazon.com/Emotiva-Control-Freak-Unbalanced-Passive/dp/B00JRHUGDI/
  
  





  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 http://www.amazon.com/SM-Pro-Passive-Stereo-Control/dp/B0017P81K8/
  
  
  




 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/837178-REG/Genelec_9000AM_9000A_Stereo_Volume_Control.html


  
 As I understand it, these are intended for use with Line Level voltages, not at the output voltages intended for headphones.  And frankly, this kills the convenience of the GO as portable device, so there's only one reason I'd keep the GO if I need to use one of these to protect my ears: for the sound quality it manages to deliver above anything else I have for a given headphone.
  
 Mike


----------



## Matias

zilch0md, I had bought the Emotiva when released and it works OK. But GO1000 does not have this option...


----------



## zilch0md

matias said:


> zilch0md, I had bought the Emotiva when released and it works OK. But GO1000 does not have this option...


 
  
 What do you mean by, "But GO1000 does not have this option..."?
  
 Are you saying that it's impossible to use the Emotiva Control Freak with the GO1000?


----------



## zilch0md

Meanwhile...  
  
*I've decided to cancel my order for the Geek Out 1000.*  
  
 I'd rather wait and see what solution is applied to the volume control problem, via firmware or otherwise, than experiment with inserting analog volume controls between the Geek Out and my headphones - which is likely to alter the signature, anyway.
  
 But contacting Light Harmonic is difficult...
  
 The HTML-based Customer Service Inquiries form is currently non-responsive when I click the "Submit" button. (I've supplied the Captcha, correctly - multiple times.)  No errors are displayed and nothing happens using either Internet Explorer or Chrome.  
  
 I get a voice mail when calling their customer service number:  888-842-5988
  
 So, I've sent an e-mail again to: cs@lhlabs.com
  
 (Staying subscribed - I'm still interested in what the future holds for this product.)
  
 Mike


----------



## Matias

zilch0md said:


> What do you mean by, "But GO1000 does not have this option..."?
> 
> Are you saying that it's impossible to use the Emotiva Control Freak with the GO1000?


 
 I now use Emotiva Control Freak between my other desktop DAC connected to a power amp for my desktop speakers-based setup.
 Are you suggesting using one of those analog attenuators between GO1000 and the headphone? I don't see this as practical...


----------



## FraGGleR

zilch0md said:


> Meanwhile...
> 
> *I've decided to cancel my order for the Geek Out 1000.*
> 
> ...


 
 They are overwhelmed, plain and simple.  The support staff they have hired are simply not enough to deal with the questions/problems with the GEEK, Pulse, and Wave campaigns.  I remember seeing a picture of Manny sitting in the lobby answering emails on a laptop since there is no real office.  
  
 I really think they need to bring in someone with real business/operations experience and expertise if they want to continue to grow with their reputation intact.  They seem like good people with some really good ideas and engineering capabilities, but their aggressiveness and lack of infrastructure to support that aggressiveness are problematic now and might eventually prevent them from becoming truly great.
  
 On a positive note, my 450 is sounding better with my HD800 after a couple days of solid use.  The bottom has gotten a bit heavier, which is welcome.  It will never give me the warmth that I think the HD800s need to have added, but it partners very well with everything else I have tried with it.  Volume trickiness notwithstanding, I still say this is an outstanding device worth buying.  I just can't think of anything near this price point that provides better performance.


----------



## FraGGleR

yungyaw said:


> This is my very simple and basic solution to help reduce some heat off the feverish Geek Out 1000.
> 
> I got this aluminum heat sink from a local electronic store. I didn’t measure the dimension of the Geek Out before buying this heat sink but when I got home and put them together, the length is just nice. The best thing is it matches the colour of my silver Geek Out, as if they are manufactured from same block of aluminum.
> 
> ...


 
 Nice!  Would be really nice if the Geek could sit in between the fins facing upwards for better dissipation.  I am still looking for something similar to use on mine.


----------



## eliwankenobi

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Geek Out 1000 Red
> Date Shipped: April 13. 2014
> Date Received: May 6, 2014 (Hey Poste Italiane it was 23 Days! :mad: )
> 
> ...




Great Michael!

If someone deserved to be one of the first ones to get it is you!!


----------



## zilch0md

matias said:


> I now use Emotiva Control Freak between my other desktop DAC connected to a power amp for my desktop speakers-based setup.
> Are you suggesting using one of those analog attenuators between GO1000 and the headphone? I don't see this as practical...


 
  
 Thank you - I agree - it's probably not a good solution.


----------



## yungyaw

fraggler said:


> Nice!  Would be really nice if the Geek could sit in between the fins facing upwards for better dissipation.  I am still looking for something similar to use on mine.


 
  
 Unfortunately the gap between the fins is about 2mm too narrow to fit the GO. Even if it can fit the GO, it would be impossible to press the volume buttons because the fins are in the way. Unless you can find a L-shaped heat sink with fins only on one side. Then you can mount the GO with the fins facing upward and still be able to access the volume buttons.


----------



## zilch0md

fraggler said:


> [snip]
> 
> On a positive note, my 450 is sounding better with my HD800 after a couple days of solid use.  The bottom has gotten a bit heavier, which is welcome.  It will never give me the warmth that I think the HD800s need to have added, but it partners very well with everything else I have tried with it.  Volume trickiness notwithstanding, I still say this is an outstanding device worth buying.  I just can't think of anything near this price point that provides better performance.


 
  
 Thanks for this encouragement.
  
 Mike


----------



## eliwankenobi

mtruong34 said:


> My Geek Out 450 with Windows 7 resets to max volume every time it is unplugged from the USB port despite the OS setting. I always set the Master at -50. But what's interesting is that although after plugging in the Geek, the LH Control Panel shows max 0dB but the actual volume through the headphones is the same as I left it, at -50. But here's the catch. If the the up physical volume button or 3D is activated, the volume out of the headphones immediately blasts to max. That's the dangerous part and that's when I have blasted my ears again the past few days thinking the volume level is safe when it actually isn't. You have to check the LH control panel continuously to be safe. This is a bug and LH needs to fix asap and please don't keep posting that it's user error and that's the way it's supposed to work.




Funny, my Win7 machine always remembers the last volume setting on the Out. It also remembers to set it as default device whenever I plug it in. I've managed to activate 3d without having my ears blasted, the problem is that if accidentally lower or up the volume while trying to engage 3D, it always goes to full before resetting to whatever the volume control is set on OS.

Also, on Windows, master volume is always set to 0. The windows slider controls the slave volume sliders for "analog 1" and "analog 2". Which i thought where for the two individual outputs, but when you unlink them using the small icon at the bottom of the sliders, they are the volume controls for left and right channels, which is fine, but you can't set different levels independently for each channel since they will always track the windows volume. Even when using the buttons on the GO, they reset to the same level.


----------



## mtruong34

eliwankenobi said:


> the problem is that if accidentally lower or up the volume while trying to engage 3D, it always goes to full before resetting to whatever the volume control is set on OS.
> 
> Also, on Windows, master volume is always set to 0.


 
  
 @Eli, I think we are talking about the same thing.  After unplugging and replugging the Geek, check the LH Control Panel.  Mine ALWAYS defaults to Master volume at 0dB but plays out of my phones at normal level.  BUT if you hit the UP button or 3D, it blasts to max.  So as I pointed out that's the danger.  It plays at a reasonable level (despite showing reset to 0dB for Master volume) but blasts to max if the physical button is pushed.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

*On PC:*
 Had some initial noise testing...
 Crancked up the OS volume and MC19 volume: NO NOISE!
  
_Spec:_
 GO1000
 Separate USB 2.0 extention to motherboard.
 Computer has 80Plus Gold 1KW psu.  
 Win 7 x64, MC19
 IEM on 0.47
 IEM used: UM Mentor Universal (10 driver) with 24AWG pure silver OCC cable. 
  
_Other obervations:_
 As stated by eliwankenobi above, plugging, unplugging DOES NOT reset OS volume. OS remembers GO as default device.
 As stated by mtruong above, touching the GO volume control UP button resets it to MAX.
  
*On Android:*
 Apps: UAPP, UARP, Neutron MP
  
 1. Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 2014ed. (Android 4.3, usb 2.0)
 NO Need external battery to initialize. Plugin without IEM/HP. Insert IEM/HP after plugging-in.
 UAPP, UARP initialized/recognized GO but won't play saying 'Couldn't get value of gain level control'.
  
 2. Samsung Galaxy Note 3.0 (Android 4.4.2, usb 3.0)
 NO need external battery to initialize. Plugin without IEM/HP. Insert IEM/HP after plugging-in.
 UAPP, UARP initialized/recognized GO but won't play saying 'Couldn't get value of gain level control'.
  
_Other observations:_
 Both units will not initialize while plugging GO with IEM/HP. External power is needed to do this.
 When plugging in NO NOISE was heard.
 Plugging in with external battery still wont play and noise was heard (not dedicated has 18 leds for flashlight).
  
 Here with Galaxy Note 10.1 (2014ed.) tablet initialized without external battery. 
 Note UARP sees Geek Out but won't play due to some error. Same occurence with Galaxy Note 3


----------



## earfonia

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> *On PC:*
> Had some initial noise testing...
> Crancked up the OS volume and MC19 volume: NO NOISE!
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thanks for the observation!  Hope to see it works properly with Android devices.
  
 I'm desperately waiting for my GO 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.  
 I ordered mine last year, Oct 2013, through their LH Store:
 http://geek.lhlabs.com/geekout/#preorder_today
  
 Until today, no single email update or shipping notification from them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Emailed Gavin and Manny, many many times, no single reply from them... seems like they just except my payment, and then.... disappear.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I'm getting frustrated with Light Harmonic 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I'm sorry to write my frustration here... I don't know what to do...


----------



## zilch0md

I'm sympathetic.


----------



## longbowbbs

zilch0md said:


> Meanwhile...
> 
> *I've decided to cancel my order for the Geek Out 1000.*
> 
> ...


 
 FWIW Mike, on a Mac, there is no volume issue. Everything works as advertised.....
  
 Eric


----------



## Currawong

earfonia said:


> Thanks for the observation!  Hope to see it works properly with Android devices.
> 
> I'm desperately waiting for my GO
> 
> ...


 
  
 Did you check your spam folder? You can also PM Larry Ho on here? He was online a short while ago. If you don't get a reply within a few days, go to your bank with a print-out of your order confirmation and get a chargeback done, though it may be too late.


----------



## earfonia

Thanks a lot guys!
  
 I finally got a reply from cs@lhlabs.com:
  
 "Thank you for placing an Order with us here at LH Labs for a Geek Out. We will begin shipping pre-orders in the _*third week of May*_. You will receive an email with tracking information once the unit leaves the facility. Thank you for your continued support and patience. "
  
 So they delay again the previous plan for first week of May to third week of May... sigh... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I can only expect to receive it in June.... if... if... no more delay....


----------



## Larry Ho

earfonia said:


> Thanks a lot guys!
> 
> I finally got a reply from cs@lhlabs.com:
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi, we will get another customer service and technical support people very soon to resolve this temporarily overload situation.
  
 The major reason for pre-order's delay was due to the last batch Chassis, we found the surface treatment issue. And we request they to re-do that ASAP. And this cause an unexpected delay for two weeks. 
  
 My sincerely apology for your wait and thanks for your patience. 
  
 Larry


----------



## Larry Ho

zilch0md said:


> Thanks for this encouragement.
> 
> Mike


 
  
 Quite a few people report back that after 7 ~ 10 days, the mid range warmth start to get there. 
  
 Give this little guy sometime...


----------



## Larry Ho

mtruong34 said:


> @Eli, I think we are talking about the same thing.  After unplugging and replugging the Geek, check the LH Control Panel.  Mine ALWAYS defaults to Master volume at 0dB but plays out of my phones at normal level.  BUT if you hit the UP button or 3D, it blasts to max.  So as I pointed out that's the danger.  It plays at a reasonable level (despite showing reset to 0dB for Master volume) but blasts to max if the physical button is pushed.


 
  
 The designed behavior should be: GO will follow the computer's volume setting. When you press the buttons, it will change the volume setting values internally.
 But when computer reset/change the volume settings, GO will follow that again and GIVE UP the original volume settings.
  
 Don't know if this solves your issue.
  
 And we got quite some good feedbacks how to make this volume control more 'easy' to understand and use. We will do that.
 Our target time is three weeks and with the Android compatibility improvement in Firmware.
  
 Once we done that, we will send out the update through Kickstarter campaign and Geek Force forum
  
 Larry


----------



## earfonia

larry ho said:


> Hi, we will get another customer service and technical support people very soon to resolve this temporarily overload situation.
> 
> The major reason for pre-order's delay was due to the last batch Chassis, we found the surface treatment issue. And we request they to re-do that ASAP. And this cause an unexpected delay for two weeks.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thanks for the clarification Larry!


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Emailed Davy of UAPP/UARP if he could help.


----------



## doctorjazz

audiofrk said:


> this raises a question will the dual mono geek wave be a better deal than the geek pulse xf?
> 
> Their digital to analog circuitry should be the same (assuming the femtoclock upgrade also made the list), and using line out and some good cables, the audio output should be the same for any set-up.  However the geek wave will be battery powered while the geek pulse xf will use AC power, thus without further upgrades to the geek pulse (LPS and/or geek blue) the geek wave would be the better deal.  True pricing has yet to be set, but not only is the geek wave more versatile (portable and compatible with more operating systems iOS, OSX, Android, Windows) it also comes with onboard memory and the duet engine that was left out of the geek out and geek pulse. I was intrigued when some user reported using the geek out + ifi iusbpower together to reduce jitter from the computer thinking this could be a low cost alternative to the geek pulse + LPS set up for us that didn't manage/couldn't support the indiegogo project but it seems there is still better deals on the horizon.



I'm already in for all the various Geek projects, haven't heard there was a dual mono coming or planned, don't keep up with their site, though. Is this a real product in the works?


----------



## jcwc

yungyaw said:


> This is my very simple and basic solution to help reduce some heat off the feverish Geek Out 1000.
> 
> I got this aluminum heat sink from a local electronic store. I didn’t measure the dimension of the Geek Out before buying this heat sink but when I got home and put them together, the length is just nice. The best thing is it matches the colour of my silver Geek Out, as if they are manufactured from same block of aluminum.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi, which store did you get this heatsink from? How much was it?


----------



## zilch0md

zilch0md said:


> Thanks for this encouragement.
> 
> Mike


 
  


> Originally Posted by *Larry Ho* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
@Larry Ho  I don't have the GO.  
  
*I'm trying to cancel my order* - with no response yet to e-mail and voice mail.
  
 PM sent.
  
 Thanks,
  
 Mike


----------



## yungyaw

jcwc said:


> Hi, which store did you get this heatsink from? How much was it?


 
  
 I got it from Jalan Pasar, Pudu. Price is quite reasonable.


----------



## doctorjazz

The GO1000, looks sad hanging there on the short cable supplied... Do you disconnect wham not in us, longer cable, if so, which?


----------



## CEE TEE

Like the small blue cables cosmetically but don't like that the cable connectors are twisted so that the cables want to turn the unit upside down. Twisted one a bunch to try and have the metal-braided shielding hold it in place with geek face-up but will probably source something else small...


----------



## zilch0md

zilch0md said:


> @Larry Ho  I don't have the GO.
> 
> *I'm trying to cancel my order* - with no response yet to e-mail and voice mail.
> 
> ...


 
  
 I'd just like to let everyone know that LH has contacted me, honored my request to cancel my order for the GO 1000, and have already issued a refund to my PayPal account.
  
 All is well - despite how overwhelmed they are, at the moment.


----------



## doctorjazz

Also didn't quite get the fix for the volume...I still periodically blast my ears inadvertently (my excuse for not hearing the missus when I'm to take out the garbage or something like that). What am I doing wrong?


----------



## jcwc

yungyaw said:


> I got it from Jalan Pasar, Pudu. Price is quite reasonable.


 
  
 Ok will try to look for it the next time I go there.


----------



## zilch0md

doctorjazz said:


> Also didn't quite get the fix for the volume...I still periodically blast my ears inadvertently (my excuse for not hearing the missus when I'm to take out the garbage or something like that). *What am I doing wrong?*




You're trying to use it before the firmware upgrade has been published.

(I couldn't resist.)

I, too, would like to read a well-written treatise on how to avoid blasting your ears. I'm sure there are some do's and don'ts that can be followed for safe use, but it's all a blur to me.

Mike


----------



## doctorjazz

zilch0md said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > Also didn't quite get the fix for the volume...I still periodically blast my ears inadvertently (my excuse for not hearing the missus when I'm to take out the garbage or something like that). *What am I doing wrong?*
> ...



it's a truly sad sight hanging droopily by its dongle/cable, LOL


----------



## audiofrk

doctorjazz said:


> I'm already in for all the various Geek projects, haven't heard there was a dual mono coming or planned, don't keep up with their site, though. Is this a real product in the works?


 

 on there forums they set up a pole as to what the consumers wanted out of the geek wave and and dual mono was number one, according to Larry Ho they have already created and run battery drain test on this version, it should be posted shortly on the indiegogo campaign


----------



## germay0653

doctorjazz said:


> it's a truly sad sight hanging droopily by its dongle/cable, LOL


 

 Maybe it needs to visit the Healthy Man site for another type of PERK.


----------



## Currawong

Here's my take on the volume control:
  
 Use ONLY the buttons, or ONLY the computer to control the volume, not both. I use only my computer, so there wont be any accidents.


----------



## zilch0md

^ Thanks for this, Currawong.  It's certainly an easy rule to follow, but what's your take on operating at less than maximum bit depth - especially with 16-bit files?  
  
 I'm completely open-minded, here - respectfully seeking your advice, as I know that even 16-bit allows a dynamic range of 98 dB, vs. 144 dB for 24-bit - but I've never been able to get a handle on why_ a lot of people _argue that you don't want to reduce the 16-bit dynamic range, especially.  
  
 In other words, how much reduction in bit depth is too much?
  
 Thanks,
  
 Mike


----------



## FraGGleR

zilch0md said:


> ^ Thanks for this, Currawong.  It's certainly an easy rule to follow, but what's your take on operating at less than maximum bit depth - especially with 16-bit files?
> 
> I'm completely open-minded, here - respectfully seeking your advice, as I know that even 16-bit allows a dynamic range of 98 dB, vs. 144 dB for 24-bit - but I've never been able to get a handle on why_ a lot of people _argue that you don't want to reduce the 16-bit dynamic range, especially.
> 
> ...


 
 Digging around since I was worried about this earlier, I found this again on the Kickstarter campaign website:  
  

Volume control: two buttons and software (Operation System main volume slider sends volume data to Geek which implements the volume change in its internal volume control)

 You are using the digital volume control of the ESS chipset whether you use the buttons or not.  Currawong's advice is really the only needed at this point.  Choose one or the other and stick with it.  I would add not plugging and unplugging constantly since that is just asking for an accidental button press or hiccup from the OS.


----------



## FraGGleR

And for the extender comments, the one we got with the Geek Out isn't anything special (not based on their Lightspeed stuff), so any cheapy that is oriented properly or the proper length for your needs will not likely be a step up or down in quality from the one you have.  I will be building my own soon and will post a tutorial for those interested in making their own like I did with my micro USB OTG cable.  Check the DIY subforum in a couple weeks.


----------



## miceblue

I've been skipping this conversation the entire time...what's the problem with the volume control? It isn't unusual for Windows to reset the volume for things, it happens to me all the time with my ODAC, or headphones, or on-board laptop speakers in use and it's annoying as heck. However, since the Geek Out was meant to be controlled by the computer's volume, which I think is a very appropriate method to control the volume, then it makes perfect sense that the volume will randomly reset too, no?

Mac OS has this problem too sometimes, but I find that it remembers volume settings much more reliably than Windows, which is also probably why people with Macs aren't complaining as much.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Only one time that it reseted to max when I touched the volume buttons (which could be remedied by a firmware update).
  
 After that I haven't touched the volume buttons....all through OS volume control (like Currawong had said).
 My system (Win7 x64 Ult.) always remember my last volume settings. 
 And I like it!


----------



## zilch0md

^ If we combine Currawong's advice with m-i-c-k-e-y's, we end up with only one way to avoid excessive volume:  Never touch the buttons on the Geek Out.


----------



## FraGGleR

zilch0md said:


> ^ If we combine Currawong's advice with m-i-c-k-e-y's, we end up with only one way to avoid excessive volume:  Never touch the buttons on the Geek Out.


 
 Once you hit a button for the first time, it jumps to max volume, but then you can turn it down via the buttons.  So the very first time, don't plug your headphones in until you reduce the volume.


----------



## mtruong34

The problem is that the buttons are more than volume control. They activate/deactivate the 3D feature. So not touching them is a poor remedy.


----------



## CEE TEE

First thing I do is turn the 3D on.  Then I don't touch it.


----------



## zilch0md

Ok, so please feel free to help me edit these instructions for safely using the Geek Out:

1) Unplug headphones from the GO.
2) Attach the GO to USB port of Mac or PC.
3) Confirm power LED is lit on the GO.
4) Increase system volume to 100% (for maximum bit depth).
5) Press both GO buttons if 3D is desired.
6) Press and hold the GO's down volume button for a few seconds (?)
7) Plug in your headphones.
8) Start playing music.
9) Put on your headphones.
10) Press the GO's up volume button to desired level.

To toggle 3D (on or off), unplug headphones and go back to step 5.

Does this make sense?


----------



## Zoo Animal

zilch0md said:


> Ok, so please feel free to help me edit these instructions for safely using the Geek Out:
> 
> 1) Unplug headphones from the GO.
> 2) Attach the GO to USB port of Mac or PC.
> ...


 
  
  
 Under Windows 8.1 with the first version of the driver (not sure if they have released another or not) using either Foobar or Jriver...the pressing the buttons together for 3D would never affect volume. It is the same under Linux and Mac for me. Setting 3D never affects volume whether driving from the GO or software. 
  
 My GO has just an okay fit in the USB port of my lappy, just a little loose. Any looser and I could see where power might get interupted pressing the buttons and which would reset the volume. 

 Could this be what is happening to people or are they under a different version of Window which may react differently?


----------



## AxelCloris

cee tee said:


> First thing I do is turn the 3D on.  Then I don't touch it.


 
  
 So you pretty much never have the 3D off? That's high praise for a crossfeed circuit. And excellent news, as I enjoy a well executed crossfeed.


----------



## FraGGleR

zilch0md said:


> Ok, so please feel free to help me edit these instructions for safely using the Geek Out:
> 
> 1) Unplug headphones from the GO.
> 2) Attach the GO to USB port of Mac or PC.
> ...




Once you start using the buttons for volume control it shouldn't jump anymore even if you turn the 3d on and off.


----------



## FraGGleR

axelcloris said:


> So you pretty much never have the 3D off? That's high praise for a crossfeed circuit. And excellent news, as I enjoy a well executed crossfeed.




I'm still trying to decide if I like it on or off. One thing that I think I am hearing is slightly elevated bass with it on when using my HD800s. Definitely a bonus. No noise issues like some have had.


----------



## FlySweep

Mike, you nailed the instructions to a T.. if one chooses to use the buttons on the GO to adjust the volume.  If one decides to adjust the volume from within Windows (or via hotkeys that are mapped to the mixer), it's easier since Windows typically remember where your volume was set if you unplug/replug the GO.  I use both IEMs and full sized phones with my GO1000.. when using IEMs, I prefer to use the volume buttons on the GO since it offer a greater degree of control, especially at low volumes.  When using full sized phones, I opt to use the hotkeys on my Lenovo Thinkpad.  Since my full sized phones aren't as sensitive as the HD650, etc., the hotkeys have enough granularity for low volume listening.


----------



## Larry Ho

fraggler said:


> I'm still trying to decide if I like it on or off. One thing that I think I am hearing is slightly elevated bass with it on when using my HD800s. Definitely a bonus. No noise issues like some have had.


 
  
 I use it with HD800, HD650 and LCX from time to time. My 3D is on and off too... Depends on which kind of music and recording I'm in...
  
 I built 18 models for time/phase difference and cross feed percentage. If space allow, I would like to put 3 to 5 3D models in the circuit, so the applicable range will be a lot wider.
  
 So now, I settle with on or off...


----------



## Larry Ho

fraggler said:


> Once you start using the buttons for volume control it shouldn't jump anymore even if you turn the 3d on and off.


 
  
 That is correct.
  
 And next firmware version will make the whole thing even easier... 
 We plan to have that done within 3 weeks.
  
 Larry


----------



## zilch0md

Spoiler: My attempt at instructions for safely using the GO






zilch0md said:


> Ok, so please feel free to help me edit these instructions for safely using the Geek Out:
> 
> 1) Unplug headphones from the GO.
> 2) Attach the GO to USB port of Mac or PC.
> ...


 
  
  


  


fraggler said:


> Once you start using the buttons for volume control it shouldn't jump anymore even if you turn the 3d on and off.


 
  
 OK, that's good - so, there's no need to go back to Step 5 every time you want to toggle the 3D...
  


flysweep said:


> Mike, you nailed the instructions to a T, _if one chooses to use the buttons on the GO_ to adjust the volume.
> 
> _If one decides to adjust the volume from within Windows_ (or via hotkeys that are mapped to the mixer), it's easier since Windows typically remember where your volume was set if you unplug/replug the GO.
> 
> [snip]


 
  
 Thanks - I'm surprised I got the instructions right, frankly - I was just trying to reconcile everything that's been posted on the subject.
  
 What's your take on my earlier post regarding loss of bit depth?
  
 Mike


----------



## cat6man

zilch0md said:


> Ok, so please feel free to help me edit these instructions for safely using the Geek Out:
> 
> 1) Unplug headphones from the GO.
> 2) Attach the GO to USB port of Mac or PC.
> ...


 
  
 Fool proof update to above:
  
 1) Unplug headphones from the GO
 2) Wait for firmware update that fixes volume problem/confusion
 3) Enjoy GO
  
 caveat: easy for me to say, i won't get my GO for another couple of weeks


----------



## cat6man

What if I don't plan to use this with headphones at all but as line out into aux-input of my car stereo?
  
 Any recommendations on which output to use and how to set volume?
 I plan to use the analog volume control on my car stereo, so I just need STABLE volume settings from the media server (Squeezelite will have fixed, 100% volume)
 and the GO.  I can set the input sensitivity of the aux-in of the car stereo to match other inputs (XM, FM, etc).
  
 Thoughts?


----------



## jcwc

I managed to scavenge an old CPU heatsink plus another motherboard heatsink to help cool the GO 450.
  
 Previously it was very warm (but not so hot until it was uncomfortable to hold) but now it just slightly warm.


----------



## yungyaw

Haha, I thought of salvaging old computer parts too, but I threw my old computer stuffs away during last spring cleaning. This looks... extreme!
  
 Where do you get the cable that is connected to your 47 Ohm output?
  
 Quote:


jcwc said:


> I managed to scavenge an old CPU heatsink plus another motherboard heatsink to help cool the GO 450.
> 
> Previously it was very warm (but not so hot until it was uncomfortable to hold) but now it just slightly warm.


----------



## jcwc

I got the cable from a Low Yat forummer (can't recall his handle now).


----------



## doctorjazz

Loving my GO 1000, have used it with a few different iems and full size phones. I find it improves pretty much everything you plug into it, but some phones more than others. Full size phones generally get more improvement than iems (haven't tried a huge number of iems, but have run a number of well regarded ones), and the improvement varies in full size phones as well. The Shure 1540 improves, but the amount is less than the Senn 650.the Senn improvement is nowhere near what I hear with the Thinksound On1, which I thought were OK but not stellar, until I tried them in the GO1000. WOW! The change was amazing! They blew me away! Fun to experiment with different phones and see how they change.


----------



## doctorjazz

Anyone try replacing the included USB cable? With what?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

With Audioquest Dragontail. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## doctorjazz

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> With Audioquest Dragontail.
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro



Is that better than the included cable quality/sound wise, longer at all (would be nice, but doesn't seem significantly longer, at least the one on Amazon). Thanks


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Better quality yes (cable from Audioquest Carbon series), longer no (11cm/4.375inces)


----------



## rlawli

Off Topic.
  
 Those interested in the Geek Out's antecedents might want to take a look at Scott Hul's review in The Absolute Sound of the Light Harmonic Da Vicni DAC .
  
 http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/light-harmonic-da-vinci-digital-to-analog-converter/?utm_campaign=Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_source=email-247


----------



## georgelai57

I'm thinking of getting a MacBook Air 11" to use with my GO1000 and my not-so-difficult-to-drive cans like HD600, HE-400, D2000 etc. And for DSD using Audirvana+. Does anyone have experience with such a set up? I'm not sure if the MacBook Air has sufficient juice. Thanks.


----------



## germay0653

georgelai57 said:


> I'm thinking of getting a MacBook Air 11" to use with my GO1000 and my not-so-difficult-to-drive cans like HD600, HE-400, D2000 etc. And for DSD using Audirvana+. Does anyone have experience with such a set up? I'm not sure if the MacBook Air has sufficient juice. Thanks.


 

 It it doesn't supply enough juice and if you have, or will be getting, a split USB cable, like the LHLABS 2G, you could get a battery or relatively cheap LPS to supply the power.


----------



## georgelai57

Thanks


----------



## georgelai57

germay0653 said:


> It it doesn't supply enough juice and if you have, or will be getting, a split USB cable, like the LHLABS 2G, you could get a battery or relatively cheap LPS to supply the power.



What if I upgraded my purchase to a MacBook Pro instead?


----------



## Zoo Animal

georgelai57 said:


> What if I upgraded my purchase to a MacBook Pro instead?


  



 The MBP is great, no issues and you also get an ethernet connection should you decide to do a NAS or some sort of streaming solution later. 
  
 Maybe one of the smarter people can comment what is going on inside the Air..fewer battery cells in series, so less voltage?
 Lighter/smaller battery cell so less current? Pint sized system bus that isn't up to snuff?


----------



## AxelCloris

zoo animal said:


> The MBP is great, no issues and you also get an ethernet connection should you decide to do a NAS or some sort of streaming solution later.
> 
> Maybe one of the smarter people can comment what is going on inside the Air..fewer battery cells in series, so less voltage?
> Lighter/smaller battery cell so less current? Pint sized system bus that isn't up to snuff?


 
  
 Actually the MBPr no longer have an ethernet. You'll need a thunderbolt or USB to ethernet connection in order to hard wire. The non-retina line was the last to have wired ethernet as standard. Can't say anything about the Air, and my Geek hasn't come in yet so I can't say how it works with my slightly older MBP.


----------



## burnspbesq

georgelai57 said:


> I'm thinking of getting a MacBook Air 11" to use with my GO1000 and my not-so-difficult-to-drive cans like HD600, HE-400, D2000 etc. And for DSD using Audirvana+. Does anyone have experience with such a set up? I'm not sure if the MacBook Air has sufficient juice. Thanks.


 

 I ran one off the USB port of an 11" MBA for close to an hour on Saturday.  No worries.  Just keep an oven mitt handy for when it's time to handle the GO; that sucker gets seriously hot.  (FWIW, I absolutely loved it with UERMs, but I'm getting a 450 because I want to use it with an iPad).


----------



## georgelai57

Thanks


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I don't know what happened. But this is what is going on right now with my Galaxy Note 3 (Android 4.4.2)....
  
 Stock Player, Neutron MP outputs 48K only. UARP depends on source material (DXD is DXD, 192k is 192k)


----------



## zilch0md

I'm amazed it can deliver the amperage needed to operate the GO.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

And Its a GO1000


----------



## mink70

So this is unexpected—I'm enjoying the most thrilling sound reproduction through headphones I've heard, ever! The music is going through MBP->Audirvana+->GO720->AT W3000ANV. It sounds way, way better than my big system, which involves a MDHT Havana NOS DAC with a 1949 Western Electric military tube and Donald North's Sonett 2 triode amp with a NOS Mullard rectifier. Does the GO sound better than all that tube equipment?  Well, no, not really. The reason I'm loving the music so much is... DSD!  I  honestly can't believe it. I had no friggin idea that digital can do this. I've heard CD-resolution digital on all kinds of crazy expensive DACs, and it has never been able to engage me. And I've never been entirely convinced by hi-rez PCM (24/96, 24/192): I thought it sounded a little better, but wasn't sure.  I have a great speaker system (Garrard 301+ Shindo + Tannoy) and 3000 LPs, and honestly was about to give up on the headphone hobby, thinking I needed even more expensive headphones and amplification to pull me into listening. It turns out the problem was the digital source. The tiny GO, playing DSD, has shown me this. The SACD rips and DSD files I've been listening to have made me as excited to listen as the very best vinyl. Maybe more. And it's much less temperamental. I just wish there were more DSD files. If you haven't tried DSD, it may just knock you on your ass, like it did me.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Why not plug it in (GO720 playing DSD) to your big system and see what happens.. ^_^ 
  
 MBP->Audirvana+->GO720->Donald North's Sonett 2 triode amp-> (Garrard 301+ Shindo + Tannoy)


----------



## mink70

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Why not plug it in (GO720 playing DSD) to your big system and see what happens.. ^_^
> 
> MBP->Audirvana+->GO720->Donald North's Sonett 2 triode amp-> (Garrard 301+ Shindo + Tannoy)


 
 Was planning to try that very same idea. Only have a junky Y cable, though.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

mini plug to rca adapter by Audioquest $12.70 in Amazon


----------



## maricius

Has anyone been using this a pure DAC and connecting them to a dedicated headphone amplifier? Do you think the amp section of the Geek would better the Cypher Labs Duet? Are there any negatives such as loss of resolution by connecting them to external amplifier?


----------



## junker

I run a Geek 1000 directly into to a Pass @ -0dB and it works great!


----------



## akarise

maricius said:


> Has anyone been using this a pure DAC and connecting them to a dedicated headphone amplifier? Do you think the amp section of the Geek would better the Cypher Labs Duet? Are there any negatives such as loss of resolution by connecting them to external amplifier?


 
  
 I'm using my Geek Out 450 as a DAC connected to a Project Ember and it sounds amazing. I don't know if the Duet is better or worse than the Geek Out's amp but if there's any loss in resolution, I sure can't tell.


----------



## doctorjazz

Someone previously mentioned using the Geek Out with an iPad, I believe. I love my GO 1K as far as sound goes I really want to free myself from being tied to my PC (I know the Wave will do that, but seems it will be a year until we see that, assuming things are on schedule). Any info on doing this? I assume you need the camera option to output files from the iPad. Thanks


----------



## MikeyFresh

doctorjazz said:


> Someone previously mentioned using the Geek Out with an iPad, I believe. I love my GO 1K as far as sound goes I really want to free myself from being tied to my PC (I know the Wave will do that, but seems it will be a year until we see that, assuming things are on schedule). Any info on doing this? I assume you need the camera option to output files from the iPad. Thanks



That might have been me, and the set-up was more proof of concept than an actual implementation.

It won't liberate you much, lots of parts to carry, you'd need a bag to schlep it all:



Additionally, the GO1000 isn't as well suited to this as the 450 would be, the power requirement/consumption is too high.

I also couldn't get the Onkyo HF app to work with this configuration, so hi-rez files wouldn't play that way, but the stock Music app did play up to 24/96 via iTunes Home Sharing.

Some of the bulk could be trimmed back if using a shorter split USB cable, and a smaller USB hub.

Much more liberating is the Resonessence Labs Herus, tiny form factor and no need for additional battery power or hubs/cables etc.. and it does work with the Onkyo HF app.


----------



## doctorjazz

Thanks for the post...looks like I have to wait here at my desktop (which I'm doing this minute-nice sounding Hi-Rez Ry Cooder live from HDtracks, through Shure 1540,,,guess I'll survive 


mikeyfresh said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > Someone previously mentioned using the Geek Out with an iPad, I believe. I love my GO 1K as far as sound goes I really want to free myself from being tied to my PC (I know the Wave will do that, but seems it will be a year until we see that, assuming things are on schedule). Any info on doing this? I assume you need the camera option to output files from the iPad. Thanks
> ...


----------



## digitallc

maricius said:


> Has anyone been using this a pure DAC and connecting them to a dedicated headphone amplifier? Do you think the amp section of the Geek would better the Cypher Labs Duet? Are there any negatives such as loss of resolution by connecting them to external amplifier?


 
 I run it to a G103 and in to my HD800 - no complaints.


----------



## zerodeefex

maricius said:


> Has anyone been using this a pure DAC and connecting them to a dedicated headphone amplifier? Do you think the amp section of the Geek would better the Cypher Labs Duet? Are there any negatives such as loss of resolution by connecting them to external amplifier?


 
 I run mine to this:


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I have triied it with my Headstage Arrow 4T...and the amp of GO1000 beats it convincingly.


----------



## zolom

I have a rooted android galaxy S4 (i9505 with 4.4.2), also installed are UAPP and UARP.
 Recently I purchased the GeekOut DAC (450mw), which works fine with my windows PC's USB ports.
  
 I did discover that when connecting the Geek DAC to my S4, directly via an OTG cable, the earphones (tested several) get extremly warm to the point of endangaring them. Using a Y split OTG cable and feeding the Geek with a 5 volt external battery, also heats the earphones.
  
 Today I had purchased a Self Powered USB HUB which is fed via a wall connected power source. Connecting the S4 to the HUB's input port and the Geek DAC to another of the HUB's service ports, seems to better things; but the earphones are still getting warm (not as before).
  
 When using a windows PC source (directly or via the USB HUB) the earphones stay cold. The cause for the heating seems to be the S4, the OTG cable, or both.
  
 I did try several OTG cables, which works well with other DACs I have. Also the S4 works normaly with my FiiO E18 DAC as well as with my (battery-less) HiFiMeDIY android DAC with no heating and with clear sound.
  
  
 Another standing issue is the fact that the GeekOut DAC does not support yet the Galaxy S4 (hope this will be addressed by an expected Light Harmonic Labs' firmaware update to the Geek).
  
 Please advice


----------



## MikeyFresh

doctorjazz said:


> Thanks for the post...looks like I have to wait here at my desktop (which I'm doing this minute-nice sounding Hi-Rez Ry Cooder live from HDtracks, through Shure 1540,,,guess I'll survive


 

 A simplified version involves only a powered USB hub, i.e. you do need AC power.
  
 At home that isn't a problem, but you can't take AC power on the road of course, though you might have it once reaching a destination.
  
 With a powered USB hub and the CCK, I still have a problem with the Onkyo HF app and hi-rez tracks, however the CanOpener app has no such difficulty and plays back 24/192 no problem.
  
 So if untethered from the computer can mean still tethered to AC power via a USB hub, then you are in business with the iPad and GO1000 so long as you have the CCK.
  
 This assumes the powered USB hub isn't sharing its power with all kinds of other devices, I've only tested this as working with the GO1000 being the sole device connected to the hub.


----------



## doctorjazz

mikeyfresh said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the post...looks like I have to wait here at my desktop (which I'm doing this minute-nice sounding Hi-Rez Ry Cooder live from HDtracks, through Shure 1540,,,guess I'll survive
> ...




Thanks, have to give it a try, not really looking to take it out for walks, but would love to be able to listen in bed. I have a powered hum, though it has other things connected, but they're not too hard/expensive to get.


----------



## MikeyFresh

doctorjazz said:


> Thanks, have to give it a try, not really looking to take it out for walks, but would love to be able to listen in bed. I have a powered hum, though it has other things connected, but they're not too hard/expensive to get.


 

 Here is what it looks like, a bit tidier than the battery powered set-up.
  

  
 This sounds better than the battery too, suggesting that particular battery I used has a cheap/noisy 3 pin regulator, or some other very bad for audio parts.
  
 I guess it could also be that the generic y-split USB cable I used for the battery arrangement sucks.


----------



## zolom

GeekOut (450) does not work with rooted galaxy S4
  
 Managed to obtain both dmesg and logcat txt files. recording both E18 and Geek connections.
  
  
 at first I connected the FiiO E18 DAC, activated UAPP - success; then I connected the Geek Out, activated UAPP - failed to initialize USB device
  
 I have the files (for some reason I cannot attach it here)
  
 Can someone advice?
  
 Thanks


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Try playing a file from stock player then connect GO450 and play from UAPP. 

Sent thru my Galaxy Note 10.1 (2014 ed.) using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## zolom

Does not work with S4


----------



## FraGGleR

zolom said:


> Does not work with S4



An updated firmware is a few weeks away apparently that should help with power draw and Android compatibility. 

And if people want to use a real man's tablet like a Surface Pro or even an Asus T100, there are no issues with playback at all.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Was thinking of a Surface Pro but it has no LTE/4G connectivity. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## sling5s

Is it the general impression that the Geek are slightly on the bright side?  I get the impression that the sound is a little U shaped.
 I'm concerned that the Geek 450 or even the Wave will be bright with the JH13pro (which can get edgy).


----------



## eliwankenobi

sling5s said:


> Is it the general impression that the Geek are slightly on the bright side?  I get the impression that the sound is a little U shaped.
> I'm concerned that the Geek 450 or even the Wave will be bright with the JH13pro (which can get edgy).




I would not say so. They do present detail very clearly, but i have connected to my Onkyo AVR (neutral) in Pure Audio mode, to a pair of Ascend Acoustics Sierra-2 (neutral). And I don't feel any range accentuated over another at all. All well balanced and clear.


----------



## FraGGleR

mikeyfresh said:


> How is the tablet battery life, whacked pretty hard or negligible difference?


 
 Sorry, haven't done a real battery run down test as I am normally near an outlet.  The Asus is more of a direct competitor with an Ipad so I will try to do some tests with that.


----------



## FraGGleR

sling5s said:


> Is it the general impression that the Geek are slightly on the bright side?  I get the impression that the sound is a little U shaped.
> I'm concerned that the Geek 450 or even the Wave will be bright with the JH13pro (which can get edgy).


 
 I thought so at first, but after several straight days of playing, it has balanced out pretty well.  It is very clean and clear, but I wouldn't say bright.


----------



## sling5s

thank you


----------



## rickhawk22

Any impressions of the GO with the NAD HP50's, compared to say the sound card on a MBA?  Thank you!


----------



## jexby

rickhawk22 said:


> Any impressions of the GO with the NAD HP50's, compared to say the sound card on a MBA?  Thank you!


 
  
 listened to HP50, GO450 via Macbook Pro retina and Audirvana+ for hours at work yesterday, it's a supremely good match!
 Audirvana+ volume was anywhere between 10a--> 1pm on the dial.  
 GO450 has enough power for the HP50,  at max volume 0db (barely tolerable for 2 seconds) the HP50 actually shook my jaw on a bass thump.  wow.
 HP50 doesn't need much amp, but GO450 also doesn't feel "overly powerful" as I have a lot of usable variance with the A+ volume knob.
 (glad I didn't get GO1000 for this reason)
  
 the detail and soundstage are amazing with GO450.   slightly more resolving, and slightly wider soundstage than the iDSD nano.
 bass?  hm, need to go back and compare.
  
 suspected the GO450 is higher powered than iDSD nano, yet with Audirvana controlling GO450 volume, avg listening levels were around -37db. (noon on Audirvana dial)
 HP50 with iDSD nano, analog volume dial rarely goes past 11am (noon too loud) for regular listening.
 not a good comparison I know, since the db level is unknown when iDSD nano is controlling volume.
  
 however since the GO is so new, I didn't want to unplug it just yet for back-n-forth headphone jack compares.
 will try that next week.


----------



## maricius

jexby said:


> listened to HP50, GO450 via Macbook Pro retina and Audirvana+ for hours at work yesterday, it's a supremely good match!
> Audirvana+ volume was anywhere between 10a--> 1pm on the dial.
> GO450 has enough power for the HP50,  at max volume 0db (barely tolerable for 2 seconds) the HP50 actually shook my jaw on a bass thump.  wow.
> HP50 doesn't need much amp, but GO450 also doesn't feel "overly powerful" as I have a lot of usable variance with the A+ volume knob.
> ...


 
  
 Have you tried comparing only the DAC portions of the iDSD nano and the GO450? Maybe to your Vali amp? If so, may I ask for your impressions? Thank you!!


----------



## mink70

jexby said:


> the detail and soundstage are amazing with GO450.   slightly more resolving, and slightly wider soundstage than the iDSD nano.
> bass?  hm, need to go back and compare.


 
 Hi Jexby, can you kindly post a comparison of the GO and the iDSD nano? Especially their abilities with DSD? Would much appreciate it.


----------



## rickhawk22

jexby said:


> listened to HP50, GO450 via Macbook Pro retina and Audirvana+ for hours at work yesterday, it's a supremely good match!
> Audirvana+ volume was anywhere between 10a--> 1pm on the dial.
> GO450 has enough power for the HP50,  at max volume 0db (barely tolerable for 2 seconds) the HP50 actually shook my jaw on a bass thump.  wow.
> HP50 doesn't need much amp, but GO450 also doesn't feel "overly powerful" as I have a lot of usable variance with the A+ volume knob.
> ...


 
 Excellent, thanks for your input.  The MBA sound card is pretty weak on some HD audio files that have been ripped to FLAC, so was hoping for more headroom to use on a DAP. Also was hoping for a little better soundstage and detail.  Sounds like I may have to get a GO, ahead of getting my Pono clear in december.


----------



## jexby

Folks-
  
 1.  regarding "DAC section only" comparison that isn't going to happen for awhile.  I don't have a 3.5mm to RCA cable yet to use the GO line out to my Vali.
 once I do, it would be a 3 way comparison between: Concero HD, iDSD nano and GO450.   whew.  not sure I've got the discipline to do that properly.   
  
 2.  maybe in 1-2 weeks can do a "very short" DSD shoot out with some limited files (some classical, also have 2 new r.e.m. DSD releases)
 between the GO450 and iDSD nano with the HP50.
  
 due to my usage (multiple offices) and iDSD nano having a battery which makes for great match to iPhone/iPad, don't have any intention on selling iDSD nano even if GO has some slight gains.


----------



## Roscoeiii

mink70 said:


> Hi Jexby, can you kindly post a comparison of the GO and the iDSD nano? Especially their abilities with DSD? Would much appreciate it.


 
 I didn't have the chance to compare side-by-side, but I have had both the iDSD and the GO450. Although the 3D circuit is so noisy with my Shure 846 as to be unusable (anyone know anything about a firmware fix for this coming? My one main complaint, other than the odd volume control issue that is being addressed in firmware IIRC), I found it to be much quieter in non-3D mode with my very sensitive (and low impedance) 846s. I was getting a quite noticeable hiss at even the lowest iDSD volumes with the 846, but not with the GO450. There may be a lil hiss, but very very minimal. Unfortunately, the hiss was a dealbreaker for me with the iDSD. Both were faboulous sounding, but for sensitive IEM owners the 450 is a much better bet. 
  
 A clear improvement from the 450 out of my new MBA. Still need to compare the 846 from my HTC M8 to the 450. But waiting to see if I can pair the 450 with the M8 (speaking of which, what  Y cable and battery power pack could assist with this if the 450 requires more juice than the M8 can provide?)


----------



## maricius

roscoeiii said:


> I didn't have the chance to compare side-by-side, but I have had both the iDSD and the GO450. Although the 3D circuit is so noisy with my Shure 846 as to be unusable (anyone know anything about a firmware fix for this coming? My one main complaint, other than the odd volume control issue that is being addressed in firmware IIRC), I found it to be much quieter in non-3D mode with my very sensitive (and low impedance) 846s. I was getting a quite noticeable hiss at even the lowest iDSD volumes with the 846, but not with the GO450. There may be a lil hiss, but very very minimal. Unfortunately, the hiss was a dealbreaker for me with the iDSD. Both were faboulous sounding, but for sensitive IEM owners the 450 is a much better bet.
> 
> A clear improvement from the 450 out of my new MBA. Still need to compare the 846 from my HTC M8 to the 450. But waiting to see if I can pair the 450 with the M8 (speaking of which, what  Y cable and battery power pack could assist with this if the 450 requires more juice than the M8 can provide?)


 
  
 Although I don't have a Geek nor use your phone, I suggest a cable like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Micro-Cable-Power-Samsung-I9100/dp/B00B5T42T0/ref=pd_bxgy_computers_img_z/279-1094129-6404502 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-Male-To-USB2-0-Female-Host-OTG-Cable-USB-Power-Cable-Y-Splitter-/171330271391 and any battery pack that would at least output 5V/1A as to give enough headroom for the Geek (I think it runs on 5V/0.5A, someone correct me if I'm wrong).


----------



## nehcrow

So thoughts on how well the GO1000 powers orthos like the HE500? Comparable to desktop setups?


----------



## sbradley02

roscoeiii said:


> I didn't have the chance to compare side-by-side, but I have had both the iDSD and the GO450. Although the 3D circuit is so noisy with my Shure 846 as to be unusable (anyone know anything about a firmware fix for this coming? My one main complaint, other than the odd volume control issue that is being addressed in firmware IIRC), I found it to be much quieter in non-3D mode with my very sensitive (and low impedance) 846s. I was getting a quite noticeable hiss at even the lowest iDSD volumes with the 846, but not with the GO450. There may be a lil hiss, but very very minimal. Unfortunately, the hiss was a dealbreaker for me with the iDSD. Both were faboulous sounding, but for sensitive IEM owners the 450 is a much better bet.
> 
> A clear improvement from the 450 out of my new MBA. Still need to compare the 846 from my HTC M8 to the 450. But waiting to see if I can pair the 450 with the M8 (speaking of which, what  Y cable and battery power pack could assist with this if the 450 requires more juice than the M8 can provide?)


 
 An easy fix for using IEMs with high powered amps with no sensitivity setting is to use a simple resistor L-PAD in series. Do that and you will never have hiss problems.


----------



## Roscoeiii

sbradley02 said:


> An easy fix for using IEMs with high powered amps with no sensitivity setting is to use a simple resistor L-PAD in series. Do that and you will never have hiss problems.




Can you point me to a commercially available one? 

And are there no sonic downsides to using one of these?


----------



## sbradley02

roscoeiii said:


> Can you point me to a commerciallavailable one?
> 
> And are there no sonic downsides to using one of these?


 

 Have never used one so can't make a personal recommendation.  There are many references here:
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/424038/high-quality-3-5mm-line-attenuator-pad-my-source-is-too-loud
  
 IMO the best solution is to roll your own. 4 resistors, a socket and a plug and you're done. Though some soldering experience is recommended.
 As to sound quality, there is as you can see tremendous debate. Can only decide for yourself. The nice thing about rolling your own is you can fully customize it for your IEM. A lot of the off the shelf ones I see are designed for mics and will be far from ideal. The in-line variable volume controls are also most likely to adversely affect sound. The only good approach is custom made, either commercially (I know I have seen an ad somewhere...) or DIY. I could also make one up for a nominal charge if you liked. It would be fun to try it out.


----------



## Crashem

mink70 said:


> Was planning to try that very same idea. Only have a junky Y cable, though.




Or better yet, get a real dsd dac.


----------



## nehcrow

nehcrow said:


> So thoughts on how well the GO1000 powers orthos like the HE500? Comparable to desktop setups?


 
 http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/kickstartergeekout/1036-anyone-tried-go1000-with-he-500,-its-upgrade-time.html?start=25

 Some nice impressions regarding HE-500 + GO1000 pairing (however the dude doesn't have a full-sized desktop setup)

 Looking for some more impressions though... wondering if they could stack up to a speaker amp in terms of performance? I know orthos dig a lot of current


----------



## mink70

crashem said:


> Or better yet, get a real dsd dac.


 
 Meaning what?


----------



## Roscoeiii

nehcrow said:


> http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/kickstartergeekout/1036-anyone-tried-go1000-with-he-500,-its-upgrade-time.html?start=25
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Speaker amps for the hard to drive HiFiman are going to be tough to beat.


----------



## citraian

roscoeiii said:


> Speaker amps for the hard to drive HiFiman are going to be tough to beat.



The HE-500s are not that hard to drive.


----------



## Roscoeiii

citraian said:


> The HE-500s are not that hard to drive.




Good to know, I don't follow the 500s. But models like the 5, 5LE & 6 do sound great out of speaker amps.


----------



## nehcrow

jexby said:


> Folks-
> 
> 1.  regarding "DAC section only" comparison that isn't going to happen for awhile.  I don't have a 3.5mm to RCA cable yet to use the GO line out to my Vali.
> once I do, it would be a 3 way comparison between: Concero HD, iDSD nano and GO450.   whew.  not sure I've got the discipline to do that properly.
> ...


 
 Impressions with the 450 and HE-500 mate?


----------



## ringyring

I'm interested in the GO  1000 but the shipping price ($45) to Canada is too much. Hopefully a cheaper shipping option will come in the future.


----------



## jexby

nehcrow said:


> Impressions with the 450 and HE-500 mate?




I have no cable adapter to hook up the HE-500 to GO450, plus the HE-500 are boxed up as a sale is pending.

Doubt the GO450 had the power to make 500s great, I would have ordered GO1000 if I ever intended that match up.


----------



## angelo898

hi there, does anyone have any impressions of the geek out? like if its a warm sounding player? or neutral? etc. thanks!


----------



## FraGGleR

angelo898 said:


> hi there, does anyone have any impressions of the geek out? like if its a warm sounding player? or neutral? etc. thanks!




Did you read any of this thread first? Just going back a few pages will give you an idea.


----------



## angelo898

going back about 15 pages basically told me that the GO has heating and volume control issues. People were also over expecting for a cheap device. currawong did compare it to the ak240 briefly, mentioning that it was a little flat compared to the ak240, but no nobody did really mention about whether it is a warm or neutral sound from what i read at least


----------



## germay0653

angelo898 said:


> going back about 15 pages basically told me that the GO has heating and volume control issues. People were also over expecting for a cheap device. currawong did compare it to the ak240 briefly, mentioning that it was a little flat compared to the ak240, but no nobody did really mention about whether it is a warm or neutral sound from what i read at least


 

 Heat really isn't an issue.  Since the amp is running class A it's expected and the unit does get warm to slightly hot.  There is a volume control issue that should be addressed in the next firmware release.  Considering the cost of the Geek Out (max $299) and comparing it to the AK240 ($2400) being just a little flat is a pretty amazing accomplishment.
  
 When it comes out, the Geek Wave XD 128 ($899) should compare and/or exceed the current AK240 performance.  Mind you it's all on paper at this point but the design should allow it to compete favorably.


----------



## maricius

Has anyone here compared the sound of the line-out (DAC only) between the Geek Out and the nano iDSD yet? By extension, can anybody compare these to the CLAS -dB or the Centrance DACport LX? I know they all have their differences and extras but in the end, which do you feel has the best USB DAC?


----------



## Roscoeiii

[name="maricius" url="/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-and-appreciation-thread/600#post_10558329"]Has anyone here compared the sound of the line-out (DAC only) between the Geek Out and the nano iDSD yet? By extension, can anybody compare these to the CLAS -dB or the Centrance DACport LX? I know they all have their differences and extras but in the end, which do you feel has the best USB DAC?
[/quote]

See the recent reviews of each on Audiostream. I have owned both at different times. Both are great sounding, but the iDSD had too much hiss even at low volumes for my very sensitive 846 IEMs. A shame . But they are coming out with a resistor attachment to address this Issue with sensitive IEMs) both on terms of hiss and usable volume control).


----------



## maricius

roscoeiii said:


> [name="maricius" url="/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-and-appreciation-thread/600#post_10558329"]Has anyone here compared the sound of the line-out (DAC only) between the Geek Out and the nano iDSD yet? By extension, can anybody compare these to the CLAS -dB or the Centrance DACport LX? I know they all have their differences and extras but in the end, which do you feel has the best USB DAC?


 
 See the recent reviews of each on Audiostream. I have owned both at different times. Both are great sounding, but the iDSD had too much hiss even at low volumes for my very sensitive 846 IEMs. A shame . But they are coming out with a resistor attachment to address this Issue with sensitive IEMs) both on terms of hiss and usable volume control).[/quote]

  
 I actually just did (I saw your comment about the hiss)!! However the more impressions, the better help for all of us right (supposedly)? Do you agree with Michael Lavorgna's impressions or were you not able to use them with separate amps?


----------



## Roscoeiii

maricius said:


> I actually just did (I saw your comment about the hiss)!! However the more impressions, the better help for all of us right (supposedly)? Do you agree with Michael Lavorgna's impressions or were you not able to use them with separate amps?




Since the 846 are so sensitive I didn't want to go the external amp route. Also for portability reasons. 

I have used the 450 with an external tube amp the MiniWatt N3, with my HE-5LE. That combo sounded great. Superb bass and detail. 450 with tubes is an excellent combo.


----------



## jexby

Regarding hiss and IEMs, here is my quick report for today.

IEMs and Headphones: UM3X, Heir Audio 4.AiS, NAD HP50
iDSD nano with latest official firmware from last week
GO450 with 3D feature off.

Music not playing but iTunes launched. Volume controlled by knob (iDSD) or buttons or software (GO450)

GO450 in MacBook Pro retina: no hiss at all on any phones, even with volume cranked via Audirvana or GO buttons. Dead black.

With iDSD connected to MBPro: slight hiss at 3pm and higher on knob for all 3 headphones. Truly only real noticeable at vol max out, 5pm.
Considering volume is VERY loud at 12noon on knob for all 3 headphones, I consider the hiss on the iDSD nano a non issue.

YMMV


----------



## Roscoeiii

jexby said:


> Regarding hiss and IEMs, here is my quick report for today.
> 
> IEMs and Headphones: UM3X, Heir Audio 4.AiS, NAD HP50
> iDSD nano with latest official firmware from last week
> ...




YMMV indeed. That iDSD hiss was there for me from the very lowest volume setting. Synergy and component matching is key. Fortunately the iDSD is available from sellers like Music Direct with a good return policy. Once you have narrowed down your options always best to try for yourself.


----------



## digitallc

Has anyone figured out a simple way to use the GO1000 with an iPad?


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## digitallc

It's not quite what I had in mind, because it adds to the pile of wires and power cords and really limits portability. Does this solution apply to the GO450 also, or can it plug directly?


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## angelo898

germay0653 said:


> Heat really isn't an issue.  Since the amp is running class A it's expected and the unit does get warm to slightly hot.  There is a volume control issue that should be addressed in the next firmware release.  Considering the cost of the Geek Out (max $299) and comparing it to the AK240 ($2400) being just a little flat is a pretty amazing accomplishment.
> 
> When it comes out, the Geek Wave XD 128 ($899) should compare and/or exceed the current AK240 performance.  Mind you it's all on paper at this point but the design should allow it to compete favorably.


 
 this is basically the main reason why i am trying to find out more about the geek house sound.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## mink70

roscoeiii said:


> [name="maricius" url="/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-and-appreciation-thread/600#post_10558329"]Has anyone here compared the sound of the line-out (DAC only) between the Geek Out and the nano iDSD yet? By extension, can anybody compare these to the CLAS -dB or the Centrance DACport LX? I know they all have their differences and extras but in the end, which do you feel has the best USB DAC?


 
 See the recent reviews of each on Audiostream. I have owned both at different times. Both are great sounding, but the iDSD had too much hiss even at low volumes for my very sensitive 846 IEMs. A shame . But they are coming out with a resistor attachment to address this Issue with sensitive IEMs) both on terms of hiss and usable volume control).[/quote]

 Thanks jexby and Roscoeiii for your posts, but can you kindly expand on your comments about the SQ of the Geek Out and iDSD Nano beyond the issue of hiss? You know, tone, resolution, soundstaging, dynamics, DSD vs redbook playback, etc? Michael Lavorgna's notes are all we have so far. Thanks.


----------



## Roscoeiii

name="mink70" url="/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-and-appreciation-thread/615#post_10560897"]Thanks jexby and Roscoeiii for your posts, but can you kindly expand on your comments about the SQ of the Geek Out and iDSD Nano beyond the issue of hiss? You know, tone, resolution, soundstaging, dynamics, DSD vs redbook playback, etc? Michael Lavorgna's notes are all we have so far. Thanks.
[/quote]

Didn't have them side by side and owned them at least a month apart. So not a lot I can say. The reviews from ML reflect my experience pretty well.


----------



## maricius

mink70 said:


> Thanks jexby and Roscoeiii for your posts, but can you kindly expand on your comments about the SQ of the Geek Out and iDSD Nano beyond the issue of hiss? You know, tone, resolution, soundstaging, dynamics, DSD vs redbook playback, etc? Michael Lavorgna's notes are all we have so far. Thanks.


 
  
 From the comments, Michael has said that he preferred the iDSD even over the iDAC of the same company. Quite an achievement for iFi and even more so that this is the nano iDSD. I wonder how the micro iDSD would sound. It better be a giant killer!!
  
 I'm happy to see that the trend of placing products at increasing prices has lessened and is slowly being replaced by the trend of having extremely good value offerings


----------



## Roscoeiii

maricius said:


> From the comments, Michael has said that he preferred the iDSD even over the iDAC of the same company. Quite an achievement for iFi and even more so that this is the nano iDSD. I wonder how the micro iDSD would sound. It better be a giant killer!!
> 
> I'm happy to see that the trend of placing products at increasing prices has lessened and is slowly being replaced by the trend of having extremely good value offerings


 
  
 As in many things audio, we are talking about 2 very high quality flavors here. So much choice between the iFi and Geek gear will come down to personal prefs and gear synergy. 
  
 But LH and iFi are both putting out stellar gear for great prices.


----------



## angelo898

mikeyfresh said:


> In those 15 pages, you didn't see any posts describing an essentially neutral/even tonal balance with great dynamic slam and detail, along with superb stereo imaging/sound staging?


 
 actually these are the typical biased opinions that come out of most head fiers posts


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, picking up on something posted a bit back. I decided to try Audioquest Dragontail cable to connect GO1K instead of the included cable. Too tired now to do AB'ing, just feel like listening, but my initial impression is that it is really good sounding, and significantly improves the sound of this unit (listening through JRiver19 and Shure 1540). Maybe I won't be able to tell the difference when I do head to head comparisons, and I liked the sound quite a bit with the original cable, but my initial impression is that the AQ cable is a significant upgrade.


----------



## akarise

doctorjazz said:


> OK, picking up on something posted a bit back. I decided to try Audioquest Dragontail cable to connect GO1K instead of the included cable. Too tired now to do AB'ing, just feel like listening, but my initial impression is that it is really good sounding, and significantly improves the sound of this unit (listening through JRiver19 and Shure 1540). Maybe I won't be able to tell the difference when I do head to head comparisons, and I liked the sound quite a bit with the original cable, but my initial impression is that the AQ cable is a significant upgrade.


 
  
 Yeah I've been using the Dragontail with my Geek Outs too and it sounds great. I haven't bothered to compare with the included cable though so don't know how much of a sound quality difference, if any, there is between the two. The Dragontail just feels like a much more high quality cable and I like its stiffness, prevents the Geek Outs from moving around much.


----------



## FraGGleR

angelo898 said:


> actually these are the typical biased opinions that come out of most head fiers posts




Dude, what do you want? All listener impressions are subjective and biased. You asked for impressions without reading through the thread and then dismiss what people give you? What do you expect from an impressions thread? LHLabs has published performance numbers if you are one of those guys who needs them. There are a couple pro reviews as well. Buy one and listen for yourself if Headfi threads aren't good enough for you.


----------



## jcwc

angelo898 said:


> actually these are the typical biased opinions that come out of most head fiers posts


 
  
 In that case I guess there is no point in reading any opinions on head-fi on any piece of gear since you feel that most head-fiers' posts are typically biased. Why even bother asking for opinions from head-fiers then if you're gonna dismiss them as biased?


----------



## nehcrow

angelo898 said:


> actually these are the typical biased opinions that come out of most head fiers posts


 
 What.
 essentially neutral/even tonal balance - how is that biased. that is exactly what you wanted.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

VOLUME CONTROL revisited.
  
 Playing a bit on the volume control and this is how I understood it (for now):
  
 In the LH device control panel, under output volume control we have two volume slider:
  

  
  
 The Master (Volume Buttons) and Analogue1 & 2 (System Volume Left and Right).
_When plugging your GO, Master Volume (Volume Buttons) are set to MAX_ (Bitperfect?).
 Analogue 1 & 2 acquires volume settings from OS.
  
 When touching Volume Buttons to adjust ((Bulging button is Volume UP),
 GO _sets to value of Master_ (hence blasting your ears since it sets to MAX (Bitperfect?)).
  
 Reducing Master Volume from Control Panel (in my case, half) will eliminate this problem. 
But my general advice is: _Don't touch the Volume Buttons. Use OS/Application Volume.._
  
  

  
  
 When moving slider of OS System Volume to adjust, GO _sets to value of Analogue 1 & 2_
  
 Remember, removing and replugging GO will reset Master Volume to MAX.
  
*Note*: I'm saying MAX(Bitperfect?), because when you slide Master Volume all the way up the the value is Greyed out.
 Larry was saying before about setting volume to Max to achieve Bitperfect._ I am not sure_.
  
*Other Notes:*
  
 You could also disable Master, Analogue 1 & 2 volume by clicking Volume Icon. 
 Disabling Master Volume will revert to MAX(Bitperfect?).   
  

  
 Or set Analogue 1 (Left) or Analogue 2 (Right) values by clicking the Link Button and slide the desired values.


----------



## jexby

mink70 said:


> Thanks jexby and Roscoeiii for your posts, but can you kindly expand on your comments about the SQ of the Geek Out and iDSD Nano beyond the issue of hiss? You know, tone, resolution, soundstaging, dynamics, DSD vs redbook playback, etc? Michael Lavorgna's notes are all we have so far. Thanks.


 
  
 It will be at least a week before spending time on a comparison between the nano iDSD and GO450 with my macbook pro retina and HP50.
 likely will be condensed report as well, with only about 2 lossless AIFF files, and then with 2 or 3 DSD files.  
 I'm not a seasoned reviewer, nor would my ears prove or disprove anything ML wrote either.   
  
 at the moment, when I'm listening to either unit over course of a few days, don't have any "complaints".
 this might be too close to call in the end.....


----------



## tf1216

jexby said:


> It will be at least a week before spending time on a comparison between the nano iDSD and GO450 with my macbook pro retina and HP50.
> likely will be condensed report as well, with only about 2 lossless AIFF files, and then with 2 or 3 DSD files.
> I'm not a seasoned reviewer, nor would my ears prove or disprove anything ML wrote either.
> 
> ...


 
 Here are some free DSD downloads:
  
 http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue64/hfs1.htm
 http://audiogate.bluecoastrecords.com/


----------



## mtruong34

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> VOLUME CONTROL revisited.
> 
> Playing a bit on the volume control and this is how I understood it (for now):
> 
> ...




That's the same behavior I observe. People kept insisting Master defaulted back to OS volume, but as you explained, that's not true. This has to be a bug and not by design because a design like this is dangerous for health and equipment. What irked me more than LH making such a mistake despite over the top QC, is those users and forum members insisting that this is not a bug and that the rest of us with bloody ears were doing it wrong.


----------



## jexby

mink70 said:


> Thanks jexby and Roscoeiii for your posts, but can you kindly expand on your comments about the SQ of the Geek Out and iDSD Nano beyond the issue of hiss? You know, tone, resolution, soundstaging, dynamics, DSD vs redbook playback, etc? Michael Lavorgna's notes are all we have so far. Thanks.


 
  

  Sorry not a pro at any of this, and didn’t have days on end to compare.
 Found a spare couple hours to “back n forth” with the same tracks playing so here is the summary.
  
 Source: MacBook Pro 13” retina OS X 10.9.3
 Audirvana+ 1.5.12
 NAD HP50  (yes these have a “RoomFeel” sound which may skew a bit of the below)
  
 Note:  no measured volume matching.  Luckily I could "get close", leave both DACs plugged in, knob stayed in same position on iDSD, Audirvana remembers volume setting of GO450.

  
  
 In short, my setup and ears could find no “flaws” with any elemental sounds or acoustics.
 I’d be hard pressed for anyone to “complain” that one unit blows the other away.
 (if, of course, other parts of the chain match these units well.)
  
  
 1.  Summary of differences playing 24/96 FLAC and AIFF 16/44:
  
 Biggest difference=
 GO450 sounds like you are on stage with the music.
 nano iDSD is about 2 rows back, yet also delivered more a sense of “room acoustics” feel at times.
  
 Other differences harder to identify were:
  
 GO450:  has a tad wider soundstage.
 goes a bit lower on deep bass guitar strings.
 slightly better instrument and voice separation (clarity) during complex pieces.
 You might hear or notice background keyboards or parts of harmony a bit easier with GO450.
  
  
 nano iDSD:
  sounds a bit more like being in a room acoustics wise, especially drums.
 drum skins sound a bit more real as do other drum kit elements (wooden or cymbal taps).

 sometimes bass drum feels more enveloping, with more initial punch.
 vocals very slightly recessed compared to GO450, but neither’s vocals are “out front” at all.
  
  
 2.  playing DSD files:
 previous slight difference in soundstage width between GO450 and nano iDSD is further decreased.
 iDSD now more like “front row”, as compared to “on stage" with GO450.
 instrument separation and clarity also closer (same?) between both units.
  
  
  Only recommendation might be:
 make the choice between these two small but amazing DAC/Amps based on features, not just the sonics.
 the battery in the nano iDSD makes it perfect with iPhone/iPad as well as computer, which is why I’m keeping nano iDSD (mostly around home and travel) for long awhile.

 GO450 at the office.
  
 Purchase with a 30 trial Money Day Back Guarantee, and you're unlikely to be disappointed unless it turns out to be an under/over powered amp pairing with your headphones.
  
 please don’t ask me to repeat the above with HE-500, HD600 or IEMs.


----------



## kbal

Open question: has anyone here received Geek Outs which they pre-ordered from their website and not kickstarter?


----------



## jexby

kbal said:


> Open question: has anyone here received Geek Outs which they pre-ordered from their website and not kickstarter?


 
  
 yes.  my GO450 was a pre-order from early October 2013.  arrived May 15.
  
 it's also going to be RMA'd to fix the 3D hum/buzz problem which is due to a DC offset issue on some units.
 (according to my support ticket)


----------



## miceblue

kbal said:


> Open question: has anyone here received Geek Outs which they pre-ordered from their website and not kickstarter?



I started a ticket on the lhlabs website and I received this reply:


> Gavin has posted a update via KickStarter. Our chassis have arrived but none have passed our in-house QC check. This has caused a slight delay in our fulfillment process. We have slated the CES winners to begin fulfillment in the first week of June. I do apologize for this and thank you for your continued support and patience.




So I'm guessing any remaining pre-orders will be shipped after that.


----------



## CEE TEE

jexby said:


> it's also going to be RMA'd to fix the 3D hum/buzz problem which is due to a DC offset issue on some units.
> (according to my support ticket)


 
 jexby, thanks for the GO vs. iDSD impressions.  
  
 For the "3D buzz" you are sending your unit in for...is it noticeable on full-sized phones or only with IEMs?


----------



## jexby

cee tee said:


> jexby, thanks for the GO vs. iDSD impressions.
> 
> For the "3D buzz" you are sending your unit in for...is it noticeable on full-sized phones or only with IEMs?


 
  
 So far I've heard 3D buzz  with IEMs (Heir Audio 4.AiS) and one pair of (sensitive?) headphones NAD HP50.
 when plugged into 0.47 headphone jack.


----------



## mink70

jexby said:


> Sorry not a pro at any of this, and didn’t have days on end to compare.
> Found a spare couple hours to “back n forth” with the same tracks playing so here is the summary.
> 
> Source: MacBook Pro 13” retina OS X 10.9.3
> ...


 
 Thanks so much Jexby!
  
 I have the GO 720 and should be getting the iDSD tomorrow. so I will try a comparison as well.


----------



## earfonia

larry ho said:


> Hi, we will get another customer service and technical support people very soon to resolve this temporarily overload situation.
> 
> The major reason for pre-order's delay was due to the last batch Chassis, we found the surface treatment issue. And we request they to re-do that ASAP. And this cause an unexpected delay for two weeks.
> 
> ...


 
  
5th week of May is coming, and I haven't received any email regarding the delivery of the Geek Out 
Another delay?  Sigh...


----------



## AxelCloris

earfonia said:


> 5th week of May is coming, and I haven't received any email regarding the delivery of the Geek Out
> Another delay?  Sigh...


 
  
 They had a setback in production. The casings sent from their supplier didn't meet the standards LHLabs has in place. They'll be resuming shipping the first week in June.


----------



## Audio Addict

I plugged my HE6 into the GO 1000 and to be honest was totally shocked. At 65% volume, it was almost too loud. I am going to see how they sound after the GO burns in.


----------



## miceblue

audio addict said:


> I plugged my HE6 into the GO 1000 and to be honest was totally shocked. At 65% volume, it was almost too loud. I am going to see how they sound after the GO burns in.



At 4.65 mW/90 dB SPL, 325 mW from the Geek Out 1000 gets the HE6 to 108 dB SPL. I sure hope that's loud enough for you. XD


----------



## Audio Addict

miceblue said:


> At 4.65 mW/90 dB SPL, 325 mW from the Geek Out 1000 gets the HE6 to 108 dB SPL. I sure hope that's loud enough for you. XD




I will put a sound meter but I am pretty sure it was not outputting more than the 75-80.


----------



## Audio Addict

audio addict said:


> I will put a sound meter but I am pretty sure it was not outputting more than the 75-80.




Turns out that was way too loud for my listening pleasure. 45% volume was very adequate.


----------



## greenkiwi

Would people get the 720 or 1000 for the LCD-XC?


----------



## Audio Addict

greenkiwi said:


> Would people get the 720 or 1000 for the LCD-XC?




Given the effeciency of the XC, the 1000 would probably be overkill.


----------



## greenkiwi

Seems like the 720 would be a good match maybe. Have a bit of extra flexibility


----------



## doctorjazz

Has anyone been paying attention to the new upgrade to the Geek Wave? the Fento clock upgrade is to be announced tomorrow. Any thoughts on this?


----------



## nehcrow

audio addict said:


> Turns out that was way too loud for my listening pleasure. 45% volume was very adequate.


 
 Ooooh man, that's fantastic stuff
 I know that can get sufficiently loud but do you think you are driving them to their full potential??? Heard HE-6 only reach their full potential out of speaker amps... Any comparisons to your desktop rig?

 Also GO 1000 + HE-500? Have you tested that rig?


----------



## Audio Addict

nehcrow said:


> Ooooh man, that's fantastic stuff
> I know that can get sufficiently loud but do you think you are driving them to their full potential??? Heard HE-6 only reach their full potential out of speaker amps... Any comparisons to your desktop rig?
> 
> 
> Also GO 1000 + HE-500? Have you tested that rig?




Yes. I used the HE500 last evening and for me the GO volume was generally 20. For both I was using the WyWires Red cable.


----------



## nehcrow

audio addict said:


> Yes. I used the HE500 last evening and for me the GO volume was generally 20. For both I was using the WyWires Red cable.


 
 Noice! 
 Any comparisons to your desktop rig? Or does your desktop rig still blow the Geek away?


----------



## Audio Addict

nehcrow said:


> Noice!
> 
> Any comparisons to your desktop rig? Or does your desktop rig still blow the Geek away?




I don't have a desktop rig. I do have a fully loaded Geek Pulse X with the LPS4 backed.

At home, I have the headphone rig integrated into the speaker systems.


----------



## nehcrow

audio addict said:


> I don't have a desktop rig. I do have a fully loaded Geek Pulse X with the LPS4 backed.
> 
> At home, I have the headphone rig integrated into the speaker systems.


 
 Yeah what I meant haha, your headphone system that you use at home, can the Geek still shine when compared to them? Referring mainly to the HE-500


----------



## Audio Addict

nehcrow said:


> Yeah what I meant haha, your headphone system that you use at home, can the Geek still shine when compared to them? Referring mainly to the HE-500




I have three different DACs I use in my various home systems, I find I can sit back and enjoy the Geek Out. When you factor in the $299 retail price, it is really unbelievable. The one suggestion I would make is to let it get its power separately from a powered USB hub rather the the computer. At least to me, it seems to let it open up sonically more since it does run in Class A.


----------



## germay0653

audio addict said:


> I have three different DACs I use in my various home systems, I find I can sit back and enjoy the Geek Out. When you factor in the $299 retail price, it is really unbelievable. The one suggestion I would make is to let it get its power separately from a powered USB hub rather the the computer. At least to me, it seems to let it open up sonically more since it does run in Class A.


 

 Or better yet, use a battery or Linear Power Supply via a split cable


----------



## Audio Addict

germay0653 said:


> Or better yet, use a battery or Linear Power Supply via a split cable




What is the cost? A powered USB hub is under $25. An USB power supply by ifi, is $200 plus their split cable is over $99.


----------



## germay0653

audio addict said:


> What is the cost? A powered USB hub is under $25. An USB power supply by ifi, is $200 plus their split cable is over $99.


 
  
 Yes, a battery, $28, or LPS, $45, and split cable, $99, (worst case for all components is $144) will be more than your powered hub at $25.
  
 The benefit that either a battery, or especially an LPS, supply is the "quality" (cleaner) of the power.
  
 A split cable also separates the power leg from the data leg reducing EMI generated on the power leg from impacting the data stream on the data leg (lower noise).
  
 Cleaner power + lower noise = better sound.
  
 It's kind of like the 80/20 rule.  For a decent amount of money you can get 80% of the best available performance.  To get that last 20%, cost can rise significantly.
  
 Is it worth the extra money to you to eek out more performance?  That is only a decision you can make.
  
 Here are some links.
  
 Battery: http://www.amazon.com/Poweradd-trade-Pilot-E2-USB-charged/dp/B00D41CYOW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1401119648&sr=8-8&keywords=poweradd
  
 LPS: http://www.ab-system.hk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=64


----------



## Audio Addict

germay0653 said:


> Yes, a battery, $28, or LPS, $45, and split cable, $99, (worst case for all components is $144) will be more than your powered hub at $25.
> 
> The benefit that either a battery, or especially an LPS, supply is the "quality" (cleaner) of the power.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thanks.  Those are pretty good prices for the battery or the LPS.  Have you dealt with the Hong Kong vendor before?


----------



## germay0653

audio addict said:


> Thanks.  Those are pretty good prices for the battery or the LPS.  Have you dealt with the Hong Kong vendor before?


 

 Yes, I actually have both products.  I use the battery at work and the LPS at home.  Both work great!


----------



## Audio Addict

germay0653 said:


> Yes, I actually have both products.  I use the battery at work and the LPS at home.  Both work great!


 
  
 What cable are you using?


----------



## germay0653

audio addict said:


> What cable are you using?


 

 At home, I'm using the Light Harmonic Split 1.6M which is EXTREMELY expensive.  At work I'm using a cable that came with the TeraDak and a JPlay JCAT 1M.  The cable that cam with the TeraDak is used for the power leg and has a female type B, that accepts any USB cable of your choice and then that teminates into a male type B.  I also use a female type B to female type A that the GO plugs into.
  
 |---------------------TeraDakCable---------------------------------------------------|           |----------Adapter---------------|
 TeraDak cable hardwired to ------------------>Type B female -----> Type B male -----> Type B female -> Type A female -> GO
                                                                      ^
                                                                      |
 USB of your choice -------------------------------|
  
 Pic of cable supplied with TeraDak (you only need to use the cable with the yellow heatshrink)


----------



## Matias

germay0653 said:


> At home, I'm using the Light Harmonic Split 1.6M which is EXTREMELY expensive.  At work I'm using a cable that came with the TeraDak and a JPlay JCAT 1M.  The cable that cam with the TeraDak is used for the power leg and has a female type B, that accepts any USB cable of your choice and then that teminates into a male type B.  I also use a female type B to female type A that the GO plugs into.
> 
> |---------------------TeraDakCable---------------------------------------------------|           |----------Adapter---------------|
> TeraDak cable hardwired to ------------------>Type B female -----> Type B male -----> Type B female -> Type A female -> GO
> ...


 
 Interesting - this is the same concept as Aqvox power supply, with a USB type B adapter getting the power from the linear power supply.
  

 http://www.aqvox.de/usb-power_en.html
  
  
 So the A&B Systems power supply for the TeraDak already includes the same type of USB adapter, but costs $44?
 I just bought the Aqvox for 100 euro a few weeks ago....


----------



## germay0653

Yes, $44 USD plus your choice of shipping (EMS = $28, Registered Mail = $15) and it includes the cables.


----------



## greenkiwi

germay0653 said:


> Yes, $44 USD plus your choice of shipping (EMS = $28, Registered Mail = $15) and it includes the cables.




Is that for just the cable, or the cable and ps?


----------



## germay0653

greenkiwi said:


> Is that for just the cable, or the cable and ps?


 

 Cables and PS!


----------



## qveda

to mikemercer, and others,  apology in advance for slightly off topic question about using laptop as a source:
  
 I won't know my real budget till July.  With some luck it will allow me to afford top quality gear - probably starting with a headphone system , since I don't have a dedicated room, but must the home office which I share with my wife.     I have heard Audeze and like the LCD-x's a lot. I'm reading, and seeing great pairings of DAC/amps from head-fi'rs  like you and Leesure, and Jude.
  
 My office computer is a 2013 iMac.  many feel that you shouldn't use your office computer as a source, but should come up with a dedicated computer or renderer.  But for now, that's all I have.  I was intrigued by your reviews - using your laptop or even ipad as sources - apparently with immensely satisfying results - very encouraging !    
  
 1)  do you mostly rip CDs (using XLD) to your laptop  or download HDtracks , and just keep all your audio files on your laptop?    do you use external drives?     is it easy to move files over to your ipad ? 
  
 2) until I know if I will be able to spend some serious money, I may start with Mad Dogs or Alphas headphones  for a system in the <$1000 range,  would you recommend  the GeekOut ,  or something more well known, such as the  Schiit Loki/Vali ?   also  not sure how long it would take me to get a GeekOut if I 'pre order' now.


----------



## eliwankenobi

qveda said:


> to mikemercer, and others,  apology in advance for slightly off topic question about using laptop as a source:
> 
> I won't know my real budget till July.  With some luck it will allow me to afford top quality gear - probably starting with a headphone system , since I don't have a dedicated room, but must the home office which I share with my wife.     I have heard Audeze and like the LCD-x's a lot. I'm reading, and seeing great pairings of DAC/amps from head-fi'rs  like you and Leesure, and Jude.
> 
> ...




Hello!

I can tell you that I do everything on my laptop. Everyday I'm listening to music using JRiver to my GO450 while doing my office work. Never had a problem playing any files from CD rips in FLAC to DSD. I play the files from an external hard drive plugged through USB.


----------



## gyx11

I posted this on LHLabs forums on behalf of a friend's unit which was lent to me brand new:

Hi everyone. some of what I'm writing here, many of you have experienced the same as me. some of my problems however, I believe to be unique so far.

1) I believe there's something wrong with the power output of my GO450. My Q701 plugged into the 0.47 ohms can only go up to volume 20 on my asus laptop before things get too loud. My hardest to drive IEM can only handle a volume of 4 before it starts blasting my ears

2) this doesn't actually happen immediately. when I plug in GO450 immediately, say with my Q701, I can actually reach the volume 40-50 level on my laptop. after 1-2 mins of playing however, the volume instantaneously goes many notches higher and annihilated my ears. it has happened every single time I've tried

3) problem with the volume buttons. same as many here. the convex volume up button and concave volume down buttons feel uneven and loose. pressing EITHER resets the volume to a certain level where it destroys my ears. even when my computer volume is set to a dead 0, the same issue occurs.

4) there are times where upon plugging it, the following unnatural characteristics are observed: pressing the volume down button has no effect at all. pressing the volume up button 3-4 times engages/disengages they awesomifier, the volume when first plugged it is alright, but then starts to automatically gradually get softer till it's 0. attempting to turn up my computer volume up does not change anything

5) without touching any of the buttons, increasing the computer volume from 0 upwards seems okay initially. when it reaches close to maximum however, the volume starts to decrease rather than increase.

I am really disappointed with this issues and hope my unit is not defective. it'll be costly to RMA since I stay in Asia. can anyone advise? and has anyone encountered the same set of problems as I?


----------



## miceblue

Sounds like another case of the Geek Out blowing Out people's eardrums. You would think they would have addressed this issue by now...or we can let people go deaf. :x


----------



## gyx11

my main concern is actually point 4.

to my knowledge, I know of people who have experienced 1, 2, 3 and 5 before, none so far with 4.

can any technical gurus please lend your expertise to diagnose the fault?


----------



## Zoo Animal

gyx11 said:


> my main concern is actually point 4.
> 
> to my knowledge, I know of people who have experienced 1, 2, 3 and 5 before, none so far with 4.
> 
> can any technical gurus please lend your expertise to diagnose the fault?S


 

 Someone correct if I am wrong here..this is an issue with Windows and volume control settings
 If you have OS/Software volume control enabled AND use the buttons on the GO this seems to be where the problems are.
 If you would like to use the GO volume buttons, disable software/OS volume control.
 If you would like to use software/OS volume control...don't use the GO volume buttons. 
  
 Extra witchy with an ASUS as you'll have to set both the RealTek audio control panel and Windows audio/volume control.

 Isn't this all dacs with digital volume control vs. analog? Or, Sabre dacs using Windows?


----------



## rlawli

gyx11 said:


> my main concern is actually point 4.


 
  
 If the GO hardware is OK, and since the Mac install is painless, I assume the laptop has some version of Windows. The simplest way I know to TEST a Windows/GO combination is to 1) Leave the physical buttons on the GO alone; and 2) download and install the KORG Audiogate 2.3 DSD player. 
  
 http://www.korguser.net/audiogate/en/download.html
  
 This version of Audiogate is free, you only need to have a Twitter account to register it. You also need to install the Light Harmonic ASIO Driver and Control Panel. Then: 1) Plug in the GO, 2) Start the LH Control Panel, 3) Start Audiogate, 4) In Audiogate, goto Edit/Preferences and choose: a) ASIO for Driver Type and "Light Harmonic ASIO Driver,"  b) Leave "Sample Rate" to Auto and "Buffer Size" at the default (you can change this later, if needed), c) Press OK. 
  
 The GO does not need to be declared the Windows default audio device to work. Since the Audiogate player does not have a software volume control, you need to open the Light Harmonic Control Panel and use its volume control(s): Choose the Control Panel Volume Tab and pick Output, slide the Master Volume all the way to the bottom (-127) and the Analog 1 and 2 to 0 db (max), and try playing an audio file with Audiogate (E.g., File/Open Folder/ pick directory/.mp3, .flac, .wav, .DSD, etc file(s)). Slide the Master Volume up  ....
  
 If the LH driver did not, for some reason, automatically configure itself, 
 1) goto the Windows "Control Panel/Hardware and Sound/Sound" in the Playback tab there should be an entry that says: Speakers "3 -LH Labs Geek Out Ready" or something similar (if it doesn't, the LH driver is not recognized by Windows and must be re-installed), 2) double click on this entry and a panel that says "Speakers Properties" comes up. At the bottom, the Device Usage pulldown should say "Use this device (enable)." 3) If it says "don't use this device (disable), press the pull down and pick Use this device. 4) Also press the "Controller Information" Properties button; the Device Status window should say "This device is working properly." If it doesn't, you will need to uninstall the Light Harmonic driver and control panel app, restart your system, and re-install the LH driver and control panel app.
  
 Good luck.


----------



## FraGGleR

gyx11 said:


> I posted this on LHLabs forums on behalf of a friend's unit which was lent to me brand new:
> 
> Hi everyone. some of what I'm writing here, many of you have experienced the same as me. some of my problems however, I believe to be unique so far.
> 
> ...


 
 It sounds like you have a defective one.  I had the same issue where I would get a random jump to max volume and some of your other symptoms.  RMA was pretty easy.  Just email the customer service email address and they will take care of you (your friend).


----------



## mikemercer

miceblue said:


> Sounds like another case of the Geek Out blowing Out people's eardrums. You would think they would have addressed this issue by now...or we can let people go deaf. :x


 
 THIS WAS BAD DESIGN
 Period
  
 and I shouldv'e stressed that more!
  
 at T.H.E Show w/ a friend and we had to be careful w/ her EVERYTIME!
  
 DaVinci DAC parts or NOT
  
 BAD design element
  
 sonically
 GOOD, and GREAT w/ the right cans

 but - HOW MANY PEEPS STILL HAVEN'T GOT THEIRS???
 I'm currently invegtigating - as there MAY be too many IndieGogo campaigns
 BEFORE getting Everybody their products!!


----------



## Sinocelt

You can add me to the "blown eardrums" group. I was careful to lower the level on my computer before doing anything; then I made the mistake of pressing the volume button on the Geek (once!) and the volume jumped to head-splitting levels.
  
 Seriously, who designed it that way??


----------



## doctorjazz

I don't have a problem with the volume once it's plugged in and set. If it comes off, and needs to be replugged, it's really hard to listen, the volume maxes out and goes down really slowly with the hardware controls. I've forgotten more than once and gotten quite a shocking surprise...


----------



## DaaDaa

has anyone tried their go1000 with any of the FDA over ear headphones?


----------



## doctorjazz

Is that the FAD? have the Hope VI on order, BuySmartJapan emaied me it was shipped, but don't know how long that will take. Will report in (if that's what you meant) when they come, hopefully soon...


----------



## DaaDaa

doctorjazz said:


> Is that the FAD? have the Hope VI on order, BuySmartJapan emaied me it was shipped, but don't know how long that will take. Will report in (if that's what you meant) when they come, hopefully soon...


 
 yeah i meant FAD .... how much did you pay for it in total?


----------



## miceblue

mikemercer said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > Sounds like another case of the Geek Out blowing Out people's eardrums. You would think they would have addressed this issue by now...or we can let people go deaf. :x
> ...



I was a winner of the Geek Out from the CES event and I haven't received mine yet. Light harmonic did say they were planning to ship it sometime on the first week of June though, which is around now.


----------



## AxelCloris

miceblue said:


> I was a winner of the Geek Out from the CES event and I haven't received mine yet. Light harmonic did say they were planning to ship it sometime on the first week of June though, which is around now.


 
  
 Crossing my fingers that those will be shipping this week as well. They were waiting for clocks from one of their manufacturers and they finally came in last week. From what I understand, Indiegogo backers, CES winners and pre-orders should start shipping this week. Dunno when referral prizes will be shipped out, probably after backers, pre-orders and contest winners is my guess. We'll see. I can't count how many times I've answered "soon" when people ask when I'll have mine to get opinions.


----------



## doctorjazz

dadbeh said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > Is that the FAD? have the Hope VI on order, BuySmartJapan emaied me it was shipped, but don't know how long that will take. Will report in (if that's what you meant) when they come, hopefully soon...
> ...



B

I believe it was about 63,000 yen, which I purchased through BuySmartJapan, total about $630 including fees and shipping. The fees may be cheaper using Tenso, which lots of folks here use (though I haven't priced it out), but I can't stand the way they are set up for ordering, BuySmartJapan is fairly easy to use, I'll pay a few more dollars and use them.


----------



## tfischer

mikemercer said:


> THIS WAS BAD DESIGN
> Period


 
  
 Hmmm... That sounds a little harsh. I cannot reproduce this problem when using a Geek Out 450 on a MacBook Pro - no matter how I have the Geek Out set up, playing stuff directly from iTunes, Spotify, or by using Audirvana+, I can't get the volume to jump to maximum no matter how much or in which combinations I play with the up/down buttons on the Geek Out, or with the volume sliders in the menu bar or in the various music playback apps - the caveat being that the master/system volume slider on the MacBook is never at 100%. From everything I've read, this appears to be a Microsoft Windows-only issue?
  
 I know that it's no excuse, but I think we have to remember the context in which the Geek Out was designed and brought to market: If I understand correctly, Light Harmonic / LHLabs at the time consisted of Larry Ho, Gavin Fish, and maybe one or two other people? It appears as if all of their testing was done on Mac OS X. A working Windows driver wasn't even released until after the first batch of Geek Outs had been shipped out to some of the luckier KickStarter backers, so it appears as if Windows compatibility was a low priority, and probably didn't get a lot of testing before being released. Given those circumstances, it would be pretty hard to predict this problem in the lab before the product shipped.
  
 If the volume worked as intended (designed) by LHLabs, pushing the volume down button on the Geek Out would just lower the volume, right? So, this isn't necessarily bad design - it's a bug, either in the firmware of the Geek Out, or in the Windows driver. I've read that Larry is working on a firmware fix for this, which should be available soon. Perhaps you are saying that having volume buttons on the Geek Out in the first place was the poor design decision? I guess I could almost agree with that, but in the context of LHLabs, this appears to be part of the personality of all of the LHLabs products - they appear to want to give their customers as much choice as possible. I think perhaps they may be paying too much attention to what everyone over at the LHLabs Geek Force forums is clamoring for, and as a result their products could be compromised by trying to do too much (but I'm just as likely to be wrong - we will need to wait and see for the Geek Pulse/Wave/Blue/Stream/LPS/[enter crowd-funding scheme of the day here]...).
  


> but - HOW MANY PEEPS STILL HAVEN'T GOT THEIRS???


 
  
 I'm still waiting for my pre-ordered Geek Out 450 (ordered in January, credit card charged in March). I got so tired of waiting and impatient that I purchased another one from a Kickstarter backer who had received several and put one of his extras up for sale. Part of my impatience is YOUR FAULT, Mr. Mercer, due to your extremely positive review of the Geek Out 1000 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.
  
 I've had it for a week now, and I am extremely satisfied with it: the sound quality that I'm getting out of it just absolutely blows away the built-in DAC and weak headphone amp in my mid-2009 17" MacBook Pro (listening through PSB M4U 1's). Due to my limited/newby experience with this stuff, the only other dedicated DAC/Amp that I can compare it to is a NuForce Icon iDo (connected to an iPhone 5s), and all I need to say about that comparison is that the iDo isn't getting used anymore.
  
 Now that you've had your Geek Out 1000 for over three months, are you still as happy with it as you were when you first reviewed it? When you need to use a portable USB DAC/amp, what do you throw in your bag with your laptop and headphones? The Geek Out? ALO Island? HRT microStreamer? Dragonfly? All four?


----------



## doctorjazz

Love the GO1k haven't gotten to grips with everything associated with it and Windows. The volume problem is as noted above, but I also can't figure out how to set it up so that it isn't the only sound source. Now, if I go to YouTube or other sites that have sound and want to listen through the speakers that are connected to the PC, don't know how to do it, sound only comes through GO. For that matter, if I wanted to listen to music from JRiver, and wanted to use the speakers rather than headphones, don't know how to set that up either. Didn't see this in the instructions, though I may have missed something. Headphones through GO1K are fabulous sounding, some benefit more than others (absolutely LOVE the Thinksound On1 throught GO1K).


----------



## kbal

For anyone else who ordered it via non-Kickstarter methods, LH Labs' customer service said they should be sent out from the second week of June through July. So I'm assuming there have been more delays.


----------



## AxelCloris

kbal said:


> For anyone else who ordered it via non-Kickstarter methods, LH Labs' customer service said they should be sent out from the second week of June through July. So I'm assuming there have been more delays.


 
  
 And the wait continues. No surprise, honestly.


----------



## kbal

I wouldn't have minded waiting this long except it was set for release by April, then May, then the 1st week of June and now after. Hopefully the Geek out will be worth it


----------



## Zoo Animal

mikemercer said:


> THIS WAS BAD DESIGN
> Period


 
  
 I really am asking here, aren't the Dragonfly or Meridian Explorer exactly the same and set to 0 db at power up? 

 I can see where it makes sense and where it is a problem. If you are using the dac section and going into amp/pre this would be the optimal standard. Plugging cans in you could see where lowest volume on power up would be a better standard. I am not sure anyone is doing that yet. 

 I have used it on Mac, PC and Linux..none have jumped volume or had any issues engaging the 3D providing you have OS and software volume preferences selected to use either/or and not both. Again, not sure if this is different than any other digital volume control on the market. 


 If 0db on start up is a bad design..whose design is it? It seems to be common across different dac chips, do the chip makers offer an alternative via firmware?


----------



## greenkiwi

Well, the device certainly could remember its last volume state and send that back to the computer... there is certainly the chicken and egg problem.  But it seems like the best answer is that the volume in the DAC should be definitive, and it would then take something to change it.


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, FAD Pandora Hope VI arrived today, haven't had much time to listen, not burned in, yada yada yada, does sound really nice out of Geek Out 1000. More later if anyone is interested (have posted some more detail on The Discovery Thread) http://www.head-fi.org/t/586909/the-discovery-thread-new-zero-audio-singolos-pg1644-doppios-pg1197/25050#post_10598078


----------



## DrFunk001

axelcloris said:


> And the wait continues. No surprise, honestly.


 

 I'm in the Indiegogo boat as well. I'm pretty patient, but it is getting old.
  
 Seems to be constantly 1 week away. Maybe I should have gotten mine in "Carrot Orange"


----------



## Larry Ho

axelcloris said:


> Crossing my fingers that those will be shipping this week as well. They were waiting for clocks from one of their manufacturers and they finally came in last week. From what I understand, Indiegogo backers, CES winners and pre-orders should start shipping this week. Dunno when referral prizes will be shipped out, probably after backers, pre-orders and contest winners is my guess. We'll see. I can't count how many times I've answered "soon" when people ask when I'll have mine to get opinions.


 
  
 We got a lot of good assemble PCBs.... Kellee's team will start working on final QC and start shipping on Thursday!
  
 Larry


----------



## AxelCloris

larry ho said:


> We got a lot of good assemble PCBs.... Kellee's team will start working on final QC and start shipping on Thursday!
> 
> Larry


 
  
 That's wonderful news, Larry, thanks for the update. Can't wait for more impressions to begin rolling in now that assembly is underway again.


----------



## gyx11

not too sure if this has been answered, but a question was asked a long time ago:

how does the GO1000 (or GO450 for that matter) fare when fed to an amp (O2, magni, e.t.c) through the 47ohm line out?


----------



## mikemercer

axelcloris said:


> That's wonderful news, Larry, thanks for the update. Can't wait for more impressions to begin rolling in now that assembly is underway again.


 
  


larry ho said:


> We got a lot of good assemble PCBs.... Kellee's team will start working on final QC and start shipping on Thursday!
> 
> Larry


 
 YES!
  
 Thanks Larry!
  
 I got my Geek Out 100 to @warrenpchi for our upcoming review for Audio360!!
 Still in SoCal!


----------



## mikemercer

tfischer said:


> Hmmm... That sounds a little harsh. I cannot reproduce this problem when using a Geek Out 450 on a MacBook Pro - no matter how I have the Geek Out set up, playing stuff directly from iTunes, Spotify, or by using Audirvana+, I can't get the volume to jump to maximum no matter how much or in which combinations I play with the up/down buttons on the Geek Out, or with the volume sliders in the menu bar or in the various music playback apps - the caveat being that the master/system volume slider on the MacBook is never at 100%. From everything I've read, this appears to be a Microsoft Windows-only issue?
> 
> I know that it's no excuse, but I think we have to remember the context in which the Geek Out was designed and brought to market: If I understand correctly, Light Harmonic / LHLabs at the time consisted of Larry Ho, Gavin Fish, and maybe one or two other people? It appears as if all of their testing was done on Mac OS X. A working Windows driver wasn't even released until after the first batch of Geek Outs had been shipped out to some of the luckier KickStarter backers, so it appears as if Windows compatibility was a low priority, and probably didn't get a lot of testing before being released. Given those circumstances, it would be pretty hard to predict this problem in the lab before the product shipped.
> 
> ...


 
 you're right, it was harsh
 I was on no sleep - and I got BIG LOVE for Larry and Gavin and I go way back - and he's a good man..
  
 They wanted to incorporate a good portion of what they could from the DaVinci DAC, and thats good!
 But it would be GREAT to address it somehow...
  
 But, like I said in my review for Part-Time Audiophile (where I really dig it, and still do) its tough to get used to,
 and its a bit un-nerving when using it with IEMS, which I got more sensitive to it as I used my JH-13 Freqphase alot with it this weekend at T.H.E Headphonium in Newport,
 we produced T.H.E Headphonium show (me and @warrenpchi ) - so things were HECTIC
  
 but its the sound, the MUSIC WE'RE AFTER RIGHT??
  
 in that case, the Geek Out 1000 still ROCKS!


----------



## mikemercer

tfischer said:


> Hmmm... That sounds a little harsh. I cannot reproduce this problem when using a Geek Out 450 on a MacBook Pro - no matter how I have the Geek Out set up, playing stuff directly from iTunes, Spotify, or by using Audirvana+, I can't get the volume to jump to maximum no matter how much or in which combinations I play with the up/down buttons on the Geek Out, or with the volume sliders in the menu bar or in the various music playback apps - the caveat being that the master/system volume slider on the MacBook is never at 100%. From everything I've read, this appears to be a Microsoft Windows-only issue?
> 
> I know that it's no excuse, but I think we have to remember the context in which the Geek Out was designed and brought to market: If I understand correctly, Light Harmonic / LHLabs at the time consisted of Larry Ho, Gavin Fish, and maybe one or two other people? It appears as if all of their testing was done on Mac OS X. A working Windows driver wasn't even released until after the first batch of Geek Outs had been shipped out to some of the luckier KickStarter backers, so it appears as if Windows compatibility was a low priority, and probably didn't get a lot of testing before being released. Given those circumstances, it would be pretty hard to predict this problem in the lab before the product shipped.
> 
> ...


 
*Now that you've had your Geek Out 1000 for over three months, are you still as happy with it as you were when you first reviewed it? When you need to use a portable USB DAC/amp, what do you throw in your bag with your laptop and headphones? The Geek Out? ALO Island? HRT microStreamer? Dragonfly? All four?*
  
 Great question!
 Right now - new Dragonfly ver 1.2, HRT microStreamer, and Geek Out 1000!
 as I usually stick my Sennheiser Momentums in my messenger bag, w/ my MrSpeakers Alpha Dogs,
 and carry an Audeze in my roadcase (these days the LCD-X more and more - for these lil' guys)


----------



## citraian

mikemercer said:


> Right now - new Dragonfly ver 1.2, HRT microStreamer, and Geek Out 1000!


 
 Why all three? Why don't you get only the Geek Out 1000 with you?


----------



## mikemercer

citraian said:


> Why all three? Why don't you get only the Geek Out 1000 with you?


 
 honestly,
 w/ my OCD
  
 I like different signatures with different can/cable combos
  
  - like I love the Geek Out 1000 w/ my Alpha Dogs
 and the Dragonfly ver 1.2 w/ my Momentums w/ Double Helix Cables Molecule SE w/ Fusion
  
 and I love the MS - because in case I go somewhere and they need a DAC, it has a dedicated 2.25v output
 for use as a straight DAC - along with a headphone output! and it's tiny, so I can carry a DAC w/ me everywhere!
 it's the audio disease 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I used the microStreamer as the DAC w/ my NuForce HAP-100 and it rocks!
 Couldn't believe it...  for example:

  
  
 but if I had to choose ONE?
 right now it's the Geek Out 1000


----------



## citraian

mikemercer said:


> honestly,
> w/ my OCD
> 
> I like different signatures with different can/cable combos
> ...


 
 I get you. OCD is a part of high end audio


----------



## miceblue

gyx11 said:


> not too sure if this has been answered, but a question was asked a long time ago:
> 
> how does the GO1000 (or GO450 for that matter) fare when fed to an amp (O2, magni, e.t.c) through the 47ohm line out?



I'm wondering the same thing. Once I get the Geek Out, I'll try that and compare it to the ODAC I have.


----------



## zerodeefex

The geek out 100 is amazing out of a good USB port. The unit I've been using is a great pairing for my more sensitive IEMs. 

Of the bunch, the 450 seems to be the most balanced but I can see the bass lovers slightly preferring the 1000. 

I'd strongly recommend people jump in on the Wave pricing now for the 32GB unit ($158 and expandable with an SD slot).

With regard to the Resonnesence Herus, the HRT Microstreamer, the AudioQuest, the Centrance DACPort, the Audioengine D3, the Meridian Explorer, and even my ODAC, I was going to do a full comparison of these DACs in the category. I didn't bother doing a full review because it was immediately obvious that the Geek Out units are not only more resolving, but way better tonally than anything else in the category. The 450 has replaced the ODAC as my DAC only portable choice which is pretty darn good.


----------



## doctorjazz

I posted before,but still have the same issues. Love the Geek Out 1k sound,using it has its problems. First,the volume issue, don't get the settings use. Second, while it's plugged in, can't listen through speakers. Do I always need to disconnect it? Is there a link someone can provide so I can use it regularly without all the associated problems? Thanks.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

mikemercer said:


> I'm still listening - And you should be excited! The red is cool - but I'm sure the silver will be a really cool finish as well.
> 
> It runs warmer than the other USB-stick style amp/DACs - but it's far more dynamic too.


 
 I wanted to ask because I have read a few of your reviews and impressions on some usb DAC's and I have really like them because you can tell it is a passion for music you are talking about here and though it is nice sometimes to have charts and graphs of differences in frequency and etc...It does not help me as much as hearing listening to this device made me want to listen to music  more often. 
  
 Anyways I wanted to ask if I could buy either the Geek out 450(tight budget) or the HRT microstreamer what would you pick? You personally, because I understand that everyone has their own preferences. I just am up in the air, and I want to find the right blend. Whether it is a 120$ for Dragonfly v1.2(used) to the Audioengine d3 which I hear has a somewhat analog sound to it and would sound great for anyone with headphones that run on the bright side. Which both my DT 990 pro's and the soundMagic HP100 closed back headphone are brighter in the treble section. I was looking at the ODAC, the HRT Music Streamer 2(which is under a 100$ used currently) the Microstreamer, Audioengine d3, the DACport lx. I have a feeling the ODAC may be too transparent to enjoy a bright headphone much though. I have never listened to the mix though so I could be totally wrong.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

I mean I am not going to be able to get any of these soon but I have some one kind enough that will is sending me the Stoneraccoustics UD110 for now to be used for a while until I can another. Well I am hoping they send it out soon that is.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

@ doctorjazz, speakers? Meaning internal? Because you could use both GO connections contemporarily. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## doctorjazz

No,have external powered Audioengine A2 connected to PC, but sound only comes from GO1k while it's connected.


----------



## Roscoeiii

gyx11 said:


> not too sure if this has been answered, but a question was asked a long time ago:
> 
> how does the GO1000 (or GO450 for that matter) fare when fed to an amp (O2, magni, e.t.c) through the 47ohm line out?


 
 My GO 450 sounds great out into my MiniWatt N3 tube amp with a headphone adaptor that then feeds my HE-5LE. Listening to that set-up now and loving it.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Because it runs on Exclusive Mode.
  
 You can connect both to Geek Out. Your Audioengine A2 to line out (Large Headphone Icon) and your HP on the other. 
  
 Just tested now. My Bluesky Media Desk on line-out and HD-25 on the other.


----------



## doctorjazz

That occurred to me,but isn't the idea of the 2 sockets to be able to use either high or low impedance headphones? I know,you can unplug and replug as needed,but seems more difficult than it should be.


----------



## sling5s

I know the Geek 1000 is more than capable of driving the LCD-2.  Has anyone tried the Geek 450 with LCD-2?


----------



## citraian

I think the Geek 1000 should be a bare minimum for LCD-2. The LCDs generally need a full clean W of power at their impedance to sound their best which even the 1000 isn't able to provide.


----------



## mikemercer

citraian said:


> I think the Geek 1000 should be a bare minimum for LCD-2. The LCDs generally need a full clean W of power at their impedance to sound their best which even the 1000 isn't able to provide.


 
 yeah the Geek Out 1000 - from what I remember - does exactly 1 watt - 
 which is why it BLEW me and away at CanJam at RMAF last year!
  
 It drives my LCD-3s (OG) and my new LCD-2 w/ Fazor no problem!


----------



## citraian

The 1 W at 16 Ohms that the Geek Out provides (if I'm not wrong) should be something like 320 mW at 50 Ohms.


----------



## nehcrow

citraian said:


> The 1 W at 16 Ohms that the Geek Out provides (if I'm not wrong) should be something like 320 mW at 50 Ohms.


 
 Yup, step up your game Mercer!


----------



## citraian

I'm not saying that they should sound bad from the Geek Out. But I consider the 1000 to be a bare minimum for the LCDs


----------



## rlawli

citraian said:


> I'm not saying that they should sound bad from the Geek Out. But I consider the 1000 to be a bare minimum for the LCDs


 
  
I'd say they sound remarkably good with the GO1000 alone but also agree with your "bare minimum" statement. Planars love deep current reserves. Between listening to LCD2's through the GO1000 alone and adding my MC275, 75 watt/ch amp to the signal chain, there is simply no comparison


----------



## sling5s

I thought it was rated 32ohms not 16ohms.  I guess I assumed wrong.  Thanks.


----------



## jazzmanmoe

new 450 owner
  
 Can both outputs be used as line outputs when they are at full volume? I want to use one to a pre then to powered speakers and the other to a headphone amp.


----------



## greenkiwi

You should be good, since the powered speakers aren't really drawing much power.


----------



## jazzmanmoe

which would be better with which?
  
 47ohm with = 
 0.47ohm with =


----------



## Audio Addict

jazzmanmoe said:


> which would be better with which?
> 
> 47ohm with =
> 0.47ohm with =




47 ohm for line out
0.47 ohm for headphones


----------



## jazzmanmoe

both would be line out
 one for powered speakers and one for Project Ember headphone amp, just trying to figure out which one to use for which.


----------



## Roscoeiii

audio addict said:


> 47 ohm for line out
> 0.47 ohm for headphones




Or 47 ohm for high impedance headphones


----------



## AxelCloris

jazzmanmoe said:


> both would be line out
> one for powered speakers and one for Project Ember headphone amp, just trying to figure out which one to use for which.


 
  
 I would think that you'd use the 47 ohm for the Project Ember and the .47 ohm for speakers, but I could be mistaken. The best choice may be to split the 47 ohm output to 2 sources.


----------



## jazzmanmoe

Any experts want to chime in?


----------



## jazzmanmoe

Would the split degrade sound quality?


----------



## M3NTAL

Does anyone else have the following issues (that I believe are related to each other)
  
 1.) Volume control down button has no affect on anything.
  
 2.) "3-D Awesome..." can not be turned on.
  
 I'm assuming the button is either toast or something in firmware causes it to work whenever it feels like - because there are times that it does seem to work inconsistently.  Volume Up always works though, but the manner it works in is sometimes inconsistent too. Sometimes single jumps and sometimes full jumps to max.


----------



## CEE TEE

Sounds like you need an RMA.  For upgrades/questions- I've had luck with an account on the Geek Force forum and submitting a support ticket.


----------



## Larry Ho

m3ntal said:


> Does anyone else have the following issues (that I believe are related to each other)
> 
> 1.) Volume control down button has no affect on anything.
> 
> ...


 
 Hi,
  
 I think there must be a button got mechanical issues. Please open a ticket at www.LHLabs.com, and they will send you a new unit. 
  
 Thank you,
 Larry


----------



## georgelai57

Has anyone used a GO1000 with a 11" MacBook Air and with the music stored on an external HDD (not SSD)? I'm thinking of getting the 11" but I'm a bit concerned whether the 11" Air is powerful enough. A friend says it is fine with his 13" but I'm thinking more of the 11". Thanks.


----------



## CEE TEE

^Yes, and I got some clicking and popping while using external HDD in one port with the GO in the other.  Prefers to run off the local flash memory. 
  
 I love the form factor of the 11", but next time I will definitely upgrade the processor for photo editing and also just know that the 11" is a bit taxed if running off its USB power and trying to access external USB drives for music.  I need to do more testing plugged into the wall, but was hoping for an ultimately portable solution with my 1 or 2TB drives.  Got the Seagate Wireless Plus 1TB but it requires Web App interface to play things directly from the drive wirelessly and does not allow streaming to my music software.  I have to copy files to my local drive to use Audivana and the GO.  Almost...but not quite.


----------



## georgelai57

cee tee said:


> ^Yes, and I got some clicking and popping while using external HDD in one port with the GO in the other.  Prefers to run off the local flash memory.
> 
> I love the form factor of the 11", but next time I will definitely upgrade the processor for photo editing and also just know that the 11" is a bit taxed if running off its USB power and trying to access external USB drives for music.  I need to do more testing plugged into the wall, but was hoping for an ultimately portable solution with my 1 or 2TB drives.  Got the Seagate Wireless Plus 1TB but it requires Web App interface to play things directly from the drive wirelessly and does not allow streaming to my music software.  I have to copy files to my local drive to use Audivana and the GO.  Almost...but not quite.


Thanks for the prompt reply. That's a bummer. That means I'll have to consider the 13" Air or the 13" MBP instead?


----------



## CEE TEE

^Question: will you be using it mostly with the power adapter plugged in or off of the battery? I could try to test with adapter vs. off-battery.

Good thing about bigger Apple laptops is the ability to use SD cards. Also- the bigger laptops can have more powerful processors. Look at the number of cores the chip possibilities have. Will you be doing more intensive work on the machine or just surfing and email? Depends how you will use the machine and what is most important to you. For me the 11" has the best form factor for usability around the house and for travel. But next time I would beef up the specs if I stayed with it. Size is best for in-bed and on small tables/airplanes. Do wish it had the SD slot or that the Wireless plus drive could stream high-res files to software for my Geek Out but that takes the bigger machines. You have to figure out the machine that you will use the most. I can still go do photo editing on three other machines without any lag/issues. So that is not bad for me. If I were buying today, I'd be wrestling with the portability vs. ability to use ext. drive and Geek Out well. Next year I should have the Wave DAP and hopefully that's all I need to play any type of file easily/portably with decent storage plus card expandability.


----------



## georgelai57

Actually I intend to use the Air almost exclusively for playing high rez music using Audirvana + and music stored in an external HDD. I would prefer not to plug it in to a wall plug whilst playing as that defeats the portability issue. 

My objective here is that a set up like this would be more versatile as a transportable solution (not portable but transportable) than the various DAPs in the market as (a) there would be a lot more storage capability (b) I could use different player software besides A+ and (c) I can use different DAC amps. 

A set up like this plus a 2 TB HDD would be comparable in cost to an AK120II


----------



## DrFunk001

georgelai57 said:


> Actually I intend to use the Air almost exclusively for playing high rez music using Audirvana + and music stored in an external HDD. I would prefer not to plug it in to a wall plug whilst playing as that defeats the portability issue.
> 
> My objective here is that a set up like this would be more versatile as a transportable solution (not portable but transportable) than the various DAPs in the market as (a) there would be a lot more storage capability (b) I could use different player software besides A+ and (c) I can use different DAC amps.
> 
> A set up like this plus a 2 TB HDD would be comparable in cost to an AK120II


 

 I was thinking of a similar setup, but I already have a 13', so hopefully it will work.
  
 Another thing I was considering is trying it on a window rt tablet or a surface pro. Not sure how the power thing will work out, but I know that my dad's RT has a full sized usb port, so it may work.


----------



## zerodeefex

I use the 450 with both a surface pro and a dell venue 8 pro. V8P is awesome with a 128GB microSD card.


----------



## DrFunk001

Zero,
    I am interested in how you are running the venue pro. What music app are you using and how are you connected(as I don't believe it has a full USB port)?
  
    I was looking at the v8p at the local Microsoft store and it looks to be pretty awesome for the price.
  
 Thanks


----------



## zerodeefex

drfunk001 said:


> Zero,
> I am interested in how you are running the venue pro. What music app are you using and how are you connected(as I don't believe it has a full USB port)?
> 
> I was looking at the v8p at the local Microsoft store and it looks to be pretty awesome for the price.
> ...




Don't use an OTG cable. I'm using a regular micro to full sized female I picked up for cheap from Newegg and it works like a charm.

I'm using JRiver.


----------



## pearljam50000

Can this thing drive the HD800 without needing an additional amp?or am i going to sacrifice too much?


----------



## longbowbbs

pearljam50000 said:


> Can this thing drive the HD800 without needing an additional amp?or am i going to sacrifice too much?


 
 No problem with the GO 1000.....


----------



## DaaDaa

pearljam50000 said:


> Can this thing drive the HD800 without needing an additional amp?or am i going to sacrifice too much?


 
 it's actually ideal for driving the HD800 since the designer has voiced it with his own HD800.


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, I believe I'm connected to USB 3 (a Faunix Lab Brick powered USB port, to which I have the GO 1K hooked). Think that is how it has been. The final problem seems to be that JRiver crashes when there is a surge from the usb port, and I can't use JRiver without rebooting computer (get an error message about settings being incorrect,, but can't find anything to correct when I go into settings). Would I be better off with Foobar or another player?

I have to say this is happening often enough to make me not want to use GO1K, good sound and all. I'm becoming more likely to pick up my iBasso DX90 and listen (I prefer to be untethered, anyway, but was sitting at the computer because of how good the sound is). the DX90 can also be used as DA converter/amp, like GO, though I haven't tried it yet. If something doesn;t give, likely will get rid of the Geek gear and find stuff that works without so much trouble (I still get the deafening volume when I plug the GO in, which is every time I have to reboot due to the above problem. Coupled with the inability to figure out how to get sound out of my speakers, from the browser, and it's getting so the good sound alone isn't enough. I posted on the Geek site, Gaven told me to enter a ticket, but haven't heard anything back from them, been 3 days or so (I know they're busy, but, hey, this is the only support one can get on this kind of product).

(I originally posted this on the other Geek Out thread, but figured if someone reads this one and not that, worth posting both areas). Any suggestions appreciated.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Never had problems with my GO1000 in my computer both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0. It even sounds nicer when plugged in directly without and extention or hub (save to something lile you Faunix Lab Brick)

Tried connecting directly to different ports (especially on USB 2,0)? 

Power Management might be the culprit on USB devices. Have you tried to put it off in the Device Manager
Try to find what Port your GO is connected and turn off its Power Management thru the Properties Tab. 

OR go to Change Advanced Power Settings and under USB Settings, DISABLE Usb selective suspend settings.

Your computer might be "suspending" power to your usb ports.

Try to go to your BIOS settings if there are some settings disabled.

Had this issue but on my portable HD drive...


----------



## doctorjazz

Thanks for the suggestions...really...now if I can only figure them out in English 
(I can probably work it out, only kidding, though I am not terribly computer knowledgeable). Thanks again.


----------



## FlySweep

I've been using the 3D Awesomeifier a lot as of late.. and I've come to really enjoy it... particularly with my Ultimate Ears Reference Monitors.  I've never really enjoyed crossfeed implementations in most of the amps, I've owned.. but the one on the GO is really well done, IMO.  As with most all crossfeeds, there's an adjustment period for you ears.  Right off the bat, enabling the 3DA causes the stage to feel like it narrows and there's slightly less bass.  But after letting my ears adjust for a while (a few minutes) and listening for another 15 to 20 minutes.. I'd turn off the 3DA and feel something didn't quite sound 'right' w/ it off.


----------



## earfonia

sinocelt said:


> You can add me to the "blown eardrums" group. I was careful to lower the level on my computer before doing anything; then I made the mistake of pressing the volume button on the Geek (once!) and the volume jumped to head-splitting levels.
> 
> Seriously, who designed it that way??


 
  
 I'm joining too... my GO 450 almost blown my DUNU DN-1000 and DN-2000 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Considering the power of the Geek Out, this BED (Blowing Ear Drums) BUG is really dangerous and should be fixed ASAP!
  
 Was using:
Windows 7 Pro SP1 64 bit, installed the 2.20 driver, played using Foobar v1.3.1.
From the control panel, my Geek Out is version v10.02


----------



## earfonia

flysweep said:


> I've been using the 3D Awesomeifier a lot as of late.. and I've come to really enjoy it... particularly with my Ultimate Ears Reference Monitors.  I've never really enjoyed crossfeed implementations in most of the amps, I've owned.. but the one on the GO is really well done, IMO.  As with most all crossfeeds, there's an adjustment period for you ears.  Right off the bat, enabling the 3DA causes the stage to feel like it narrows and there's slightly less bass.  But after letting my ears adjust for a while (a few minutes) and listening for another 15 to 20 minutes.. I'd turn off the 3DA and feel something didn't quite sound 'right' w/ it off.


 
  
 Sorry for being ignorant, how to activate the 3D Awesomeifier?
 My GO 450 setup has BED (Blowing Ear Drums) BUG, so I don't dare to touch the volume buttons, and I don't see any option on the control panel to activate the 3DA.


----------



## gyx11

all you need to do is press the volume up and volume down buttons simultaneously!

and yes, please do it when you're not plugged in to prevent unbearable pain


----------



## earfonia

gyx11 said:


> all you need to do is press the volume up and volume down buttons simultaneously!
> 
> and yes, please do it when you're not plugged in to prevent unbearable pain


 
  
 Noted thanks!


----------



## WickedChicken

I'm a bit late to the party but I've had my Geek Out 720 for awhile now and am still enjoying it quite a bit.  During the campaign I opted for the 450 in Green but since the Green wasn't up to snuff i was offered a 720 in my choice of black or red (I went with black).
  
 Being a Mac user, setup was a breeze and I can easily switch back and  forth between the Geek oUt and my NI Kore Audio 6 Audio interface by simply opening my sound preferences.  The NI Kore also has an excellent sounding DAC but it's  headphone power is pretty much the same as an iPod so it doesn't drive the Q701s all that well.  Side note.. music/studio gear tends to make for a very good DAC for a whole lot less money than most audiophile gear.  Even a basic $100-150 Focusrite iSolo is going to be a huge improvement over an on board DAC.
  
 Initially I had the eardrum-shattering volume jumping issues every time the device was plugged in but somehow that seems to have sorted itself out without any action on my end.  But just to be on the safe side I always fire things up with the headphones off.
  
 I've been pairing my Geek with AKG Q701s and am quite pleased wight he pairing.  I know many complain that the Q701s are a light in the Bass department but with the Geek there seems to be just a touch more bass presence making for a very pleasant listening experience.  
  
 This is my first "audiophile" DAC so I'm not going to bother wasting anyones time with a lengthy review trying to compare it to other players.  If it were simply a DAC I'd actually have very little, or possibly no, interest in it since currently I have no high-res music and listen mainly to CDs ripped to ALAC.   It's the combination of DAC and Headphone Amp that I'm drawn to. The DACs on NI Kore Audio 6 and Apogee DUET are quite good but on their own they can't do much for power hungry headphones (but they both sound splendid with my Momentums).  
 That being said, as a portable DAC/Headphone Amp combo I'm quite pleased with end result.  It's has a nice balanced sound with great resolution and can drive my AKGs with no problem.
  
 What I'm really looking forward to is my Geek Pulse X.   I spend a lot of time sitting at my desk on my iMac and having a desktop unit that can be properly integrated into my setup will be fantastic.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Just a heads up with UAPP (Universal Audio Player Pro) ver. 1.1.9 for Android.
  
 There is a preliminary DSD function  for DACs supporting DOP.
  
 Requires a fast smartphone though.
  
 Player link here: UAPP ver 1.1.9]Paid Version UAPP ver 1.1.9
  
 Trial Here: TRIAL UAPP ver 1.1.9]Trial UAPP ver 1.1.9
  
 Geek Out confirming DSD128 courtesy of the album 2L - The Nordic Sounds, 
 Track 01. Mozart - Violin Concerto No. 4 In D Major Kv 218 - Allegro


----------



## Baycode

@m-i-c-k-e-y which Samsung model is that? How about the draining time of the batteries after the connection with Geek?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Note 3 Bro. 

And draining time? With Go 1000 maybe 2 hrs? Can't tell but it sucks it dry real fast. Will update this later. Had the whole DSD128 2L The Nordic Sounds album copied last night. Will see. 

But was amazed though how Note 3 could support the current draw from a 1W amp. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Baycode

Thanks for the info @m-i-c-k-e-y ! 
  
 Yes, dry real fast :/
  
 Geek Stream with built-in battery can solve the problem...
  
 Has anyone seen comparison for GO 1K to GO Stream output powers?


----------



## kbal

Sorry to go off topic, but has anyone who didn't order their Geek Outs from kickstarter received their Geek Outs?


----------



## AxelCloris

kbal said:


> Sorry to go off topic, but has anyone who didn't order their Geek Outs from kickstarter received their Geek Outs?


 
  
 My understanding is that people who pre-ordered the GO 450 in silver have had theirs shipped. And I just learned that a few people who won GO units from CES have received theirs as well. So there are a handful in the wild that were not backed via Kickstarter.


----------



## kbal

Add me to the handful. I was told to expect it from the 2nd week of June through July, just wanted to see if anyone had received any non-Kickstarter pre-orders


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Had a test last night
  
 Geek Out 1000 on Samsung Note 3
  
*MP3* around* 3.7 hrs*.
  
*DSD128* around *3 hrs*.


----------



## Baycode

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Had a test last night
> 
> Geek Out 1000 on Samsung Note 3
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks for the valuable input


----------



## Baycode

Do anyone come across a good or better alternative to Geek Out 1000 but with a *battery power support* (at similar price range, or lower)?


----------



## earfonia

kbal said:


> Sorry to go off topic, but has anyone who didn't order their Geek Outs from kickstarter received their Geek Outs?




I didn't order from Kickstarter, received mine last week.


----------



## zenpunk

Still waiting for my pre-ordered 450....


----------



## greenkiwi

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Had a test last night
> 
> Geek Out 1000 on Samsung Note 3
> 
> ...


 
 What is the time playing music w/o the GO?  i.e. how much of a drop is it?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

This weekend Bro. When I have the time. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Supperconductor

So I bought a bunch of Blue Note music on HD-Tracks since they were running a special. I'm still loving this set-up. Going to pick up some DSD downloads when budget permits. I drag my headphones, the GO, and a USB3 hard drive to work and try to listen as much as possible.


----------



## pearljam50000

supperconductor said:


> So I bought a bunch of Blue Note music on HD-Tracks since they were running a special. I'm still loving this set-up. Going to pick up some DSD downloads when budget permits. I drag my headphones, the GO, and a USB3 hard drive to work and try to listen as much as possible.


 
 You feel that the HD600 are driven OK by the Geek?


----------



## Supperconductor

pearljam50000 said:


> You feel that the HD600 are driven OK by the Geek?


 
 Absolutely. My GO 1000 drives the HD600 effortlessly. Honestly, it easily bested my Peachtree Audio iNova and Marantz AV-7005. For work I use the Mad Dogs (as they are closed backs and don't disturb my co-workers), but for sheer comfort and beauty of sound (even if it may be called "euphonic"), I prefer the HD600s for home use. I'm no longer in the market for a desktop DAC/Amp for both of these cans.
  
 I'm using Audirvana in integer mode, and experimenting with HQPlayer for up sampling everything to DSD 5.6. Native DSD from Audirvana is simply stunning.


----------



## pearljam50000

Does the DSD has a dedicated chip,or does the ESS chip also decodes the DSD?


----------



## miceblue

pearljam50000 said:


> Does the DSD has a dedicated chip,or does the ESS chip also decodes the DSD?



The ESS DAC does the DSD and PCM decoding.
http://www.esstech.com/PDF/ES9018-2M%20PB%20Rev%200.8%20130619.pdf


> Versatile digital input: Supports SPDIF, PCM (I2S, LJ 16-32-bit), or DSD input


----------



## nehcrow

supperconductor said:


> Absolutely. My GO 1000 drives the HD600 effortlessly. Honestly, it easily bested my Peachtree Audio iNova and Marantz AV-7005. For work I use the Mad Dogs (as they are closed backs and don't disturb my co-workers), but for sheer comfort and beauty of sound (even if it may be called "euphonic"), I prefer the HD600s for home use. I'm no longer in the market for a desktop DAC/Amp for both of these cans.
> 
> I'm using Audirvana in integer mode, and experimenting with HQPlayer for up sampling everything to DSD 5.6. Native DSD from Audirvana is simply stunning.


 
 Any comparisons to desktop amps/dacs?


----------



## PhilW

Now here and available in the UK.


----------



## zenpunk

Good to know!
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Sadly I pre-ordered mine back in January December straight from LH Labs and I am still waiting for it. 
 Those LH Labs people are really hopeless, or are they just taking the piss?


----------



## BaTou069

When listening PCM to DSD (Geek720) I hear clicks every 5 seconds (more or less)...
 Also when listening to a song with a lot of silence, for example Cowboy junkies - Mining for gold, then in the backgroud I hear a lot of weird noises, like someone doing weird DJ scratching with a vinyl lol...
  
 btw, what benefit should one get from upsampling PCM to DSD?
  
 Foobar -> geet out 720 -> shure se846
  
 Asio: foo_dsd_asio
  
 DoP MArker 0x05/0xFA
 PCM to DSD Method: SDM Type B to DSD128
 DSD/PCM Transition: 50ms
  
 Buffer lenght: 5070 ms (tried to play with this, but has no effect)


----------



## DrFunk001

batou069 said:


> Also when listening to a song with a lot of silence, for example Cowboy junkies - Mining for gold, then in the backgroud I hear a lot of weird noises, like someone doing weird DJ scratching with a vinyl lol...


 
  
 I don't have my geek out yet so I can't really compare, but I listen to mining for gold a lot and I have noticed additional noises on higher fidelity systems. I'm not sure exactly what you are hearing but there are definitely some vinyl scratching noises built into that track. It's almost like the producer wanted you to think you were listening to old time vinyl. Do you hear it with any other tracks?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

@BaTou069 

Adjust Streaming Mode and Buffer Size in LH Labs Control Panel? 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Supperconductor

nehcrow said:


> Any comparisons to desktop amps/dacs?


 
 No, I have not done a direct & simultaneous comparison. I did hear the Schiit Valhalla at a show and thought it had more slam overall but also not quite as neutral as the GO 1000. I've also heard the HD600s on Woo Audio's WA7 and came away disappointed. May it had been hyped so much in my mind, that it couldn't possibly live up to my preconceived expectations. But as all this relies on my auditory memory, consider it pretty unreliable and totally anecdotal. The next show I go to I will take my GO 1000 with me and make direct comparisons with my own cans and music just for curiosity's sake.


----------



## atsq17

My problem is that my desktop setup is worth 10x that of the Geek Out so I cannot give a useful comparison. My Audiophilleo 2 alone costs over twice as much as the Geek Out. Even my USB cable costs more than the Geek Out. My Bottlehead Crack has capacitors 4 times the size of the Geek Out. Obviously my desktop setup is going to be clearly superior in almost every way (paired with my re-cabled T1). 
  
 Against stuff closer priced (but still more expensive) stuff like RSA Predator and the RSA Intruder  I find that the dedicated amps have their specializations.
 The Predator is very good at layering but soundstage is quite enclosed. The DAC isn't anything to shout about.
 The Intruder is technically very nice, probably the most technically superior of the group. Sound is very spacious and detailed (used in balanced mode). Single-ended, its improvements over the others are a bit less pronounced. The DAC is decent but a bit too flat and depending on what headphones it's paired with, a bit boring (my opinion only of course). It does tame the hard to manage TH900 quite well though. 
 The Geek Out is an odd one. It doesn't seem to beat the RSAs at their specializations but it is quite resolving, detailed and reasonably spacious. It's not a world beater but it doesn't have any glaring weaknesses. One of it's biggest strengths is that regardless of which headphone I put on it, I seem to enjoy the sound signature. It's not boring sounding (don't know how to describe this in more technical terms). So while I can tell the Intruder in balanced mode is slightly more spacious and a tad more detailed, I enjoy the Geek Out at least as much (if not more sometimes). The Predator is superb at layering and may be slightly superior than the Geek Out in that sense but the Geek Out seems to have a wider sound stage and the layering isn't bad either. Both the Predator and Geek Out seem to have very enjoyable signatures that dig deep into the bass frequencies. 
 Both RSA devices are considerably larger and more expensive than the Geek Out and are known to be among the top of their class. The fact that the Geek Out is competing at this level says a lot. 
  
 When I let my friends try the Audioquest Dragonfly, they told me that they flat out didn't like its artificial sound and were less than impressed. When I showed them the Geek Out, they complained that it could not compete with dac/amp setups costing close to $1k. The fact that they compared it to equipment of that level speaks volumes of its abilities. 
  
 In conclusion I think that it's an excellent mid-fi piece of equipment available for entry-level prices. Anyone who is after music enjoyment and not so much analysis will not be disappointed for the price they pay in my opinion. It punches well above its weight and price point. Just don't expect it to beat $1000+ setups. How many $200-ish pieces of equipment can drive virtually any headphone and do it well?


----------



## mattelka

atsq17 said:


> My problem is that my desktop setup is worth 10x that of the Geek Out so I cannot give a useful comparison. My Audiophilleo 2 alone costs over twice as much as the Geek Out. Even my USB cable costs more than the Geek Out. My Bottlehead Crack has capacitors 4 times the size of the Geek Out. Obviously my desktop setup is going to be clearly superior in almost every way (paired with my re-cabled T1).
> 
> Against stuff closer priced (but still more expensive) stuff like RSA Predator and the RSA Intruder  I find that the dedicated amps have their specializations.
> The Predator is very good at layering but soundstage is quite enclosed. The DAC isn't anything to shout about.
> ...


 
  
 atsq17. Well put. Your concluding paragraph summed it up nicely. +1


----------



## pearljam50000

How can the Geek's amp be powerful if it gets it's power only from the usb?
And what version of the Geek is the best for HD800?
Thanks


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Geek Out 1000 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## germay0653

atsq17 said:


> My problem is that my desktop setup is worth 10x that of the Geek Out so I cannot give a useful comparison. My Audiophilleo 2 alone costs over twice as much as the Geek Out. Even my USB cable costs more than the Geek Out. My Bottlehead Crack has capacitors 4 times the size of the Geek Out. Obviously my desktop setup is going to be clearly superior in almost every way (paired with my re-cabled T1).
> 
> Against stuff closer priced (but still more expensive) stuff like RSA Predator and the RSA Intruder  I find that the dedicated amps have their specializations.
> The Predator is very good at layering but soundstage is quite enclosed. The DAC isn't anything to shout about.
> ...


 
  
 Have you tried it with a split cable and powered by an LPS?


----------



## atsq17

I am still waiting for my Geek LPS. That won't be shipped for at least another month or two. This LPS is designed for use with Geek Out. 
  
 My Teradak LPS doesn't lend itself to use with the Geek Out. I tried using a USB isolator in conjunction with an LPS but the computer wouldn't read it. 
  
 The isolator I use requires the device to use Windows drivers (eg. Audiophilleo, pupDAC) but won't work with anything that has their own drivers (Geek Out, Musical Fidelity VLink 192). 
  
 Therefore I've only used Geek Out direct from USB port.


----------



## AxelCloris

The Schiit Wyrd is available now and reports are showing that it works well with the GO. Darin Fong posted a short blurb in another thread and his impressions speak highly of Schiit's little $99 linear power supply. So if you want something to tide you over until the LHLabs LPS is available, this may be it.
  
 Could be nice to use instead of running straight out of the USB port.


----------



## greenkiwi

It always seems odd to me to get a big honking LPS to go with a USB audio stick... Once I'm tied down to a desk, might as well have the full geek pulse.


----------



## AxelCloris

greenkiwi said:


> It always seems odd to me to get a big honking LPS to go with a USB audio stick... Once I'm tied down to a desk, might as well have the full geek pulse.


 
  
 While I agree, the Pulse isn't available yet. And who knows how long it'll be before it is? I'll eventually have my GO as a portable only solution, but until the Pulse arrives it will be my home DAC as well; once I actually get my hands on it that is. I'm passing on the Wyrd myself since I have an LPS4 coming and from what I read on the LHLabs forums it seems to be fairly close to production.


----------



## germay0653

atsq17 said:


> I am still waiting for my Geek LPS. That won't be shipped for at least another month or two. This LPS is designed for use with Geek Out.
> 
> My Teradak LPS doesn't lend itself to use with the Geek Out. I tried using a USB isolator in conjunction with an LPS but the computer wouldn't read it.
> 
> ...


 
 Which TeraDak are you using?  I'm using the UV9A with an OUT 720 and the two cables I've used with it are the split Lightspeed itself and a combo of the one that came with the UV9A and any other USB cable and have had no problems whatsoever.


----------



## atsq17

germay0653 said:


> Which TeraDak are you using?  I'm using the UV9A with an OUT 720 and the two cables I've used with it are the split Lightspeed itself and a combo of the one that came with the UV9A and any other USB cable and have had no problems whatsoever.


 
  
 Using a cheapy U9.  
  
 I don't have a split cable yet. I ordered the Lightspeed 2G. The Lightspeed is out of my budget!


----------



## atsq17

Wait. UV9A. That's the one I have. The supplied USB cable is a male USB A-B. Even with the split, I don't see where to put the Geek Out?
  
 Are you also using the A&B Systems Isolator?


----------



## germay0653

atsq17 said:


> Using a cheapy U9.
> 
> I don't have a split cable yet. I ordered the Lightspeed 2G. The Lightspeed is out of my budget!


 

 That's the same as the UV9A I have.  Is there a female USB Type A connector on the back or does it only have the the female round DC input connector?  Mine has the USB connector and came with a cable that had Type A male, plugs in the back of the U9, and a combo type B female and type B male at the other end.  You plug any USB cable coming from your PC that has type B male into the Type B female of that combo connector.  You'll also need a Type B female to Type A female adapter that the OUT plugs into.  That way it uses the +5V and Ground coming from the LPS and +/- Data coming from the PC.  It's the cable with the yellow heatshrink.


----------



## atsq17

germay0653 said:


> That's the same as the UV9A I have.  Is there a female USB Type A connector on the back or does it only have the the female round DC input connector?  Mine has the USB connector and came with a cable that had Type A male, plugs in the back of the U9, and a combo type B female and type B male at the other end.  You plug any USB cable coming from your PC that has type B male into the Type B female of that combo connector. * You'll also need a Type B female to Type A female adapter that the OUT plugs into*.  That way it uses the +5V and Ground coming from the LPS and +/- Data coming from the PC.


 
  
 I think I found my problem.   
  
 I tried using the isolator as my converter but the isolator doesn't play well with it. I might look out for a converter.


----------



## germay0653

atsq17 said:


> Wait. UV9A. That's the one I have. The supplied USB cable is a male USB A-B. Even with the split, I don't see where to put the Geek Out?
> 
> Are you also using the A&B Systems Isolator?


 

 You need a female Type B, Yellow heatshrink male type B plugs into it, to female Type A that the Out plugs into.  They're less than $10.


----------



## kbal

I'm with you zenpunk, I ordered later, but still from their website. How can they be releasing them in the UK before fulfilling outstanding orders to someone in the UK? At this point in time it seems like they've just taken my money as well. All the communication has been initiated by me and each one ends up being me asking for an approximate delivery date and each time I get told a later time. This is getting ridiculous. The last time I asked I got told it would be delivered starting the second week of June through July, despite still being in that time period, the length of the given time period is unnerving to say the least.


> Sadly I pre-ordered mine back in January December straight from LH Labs and I am still waiting for it.  Those LH Labs people are really hopeless, or are they just taking the piss?


----------



## zenpunk

I opened a second ticket to complain about the issue and asked for a refund but I was told all the pre-order were sent last week. Apparently, no supplier has stock as they have to go through LH Labs for each order. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Sadly, I am still waiting and the tracking number they provided me is invalid...
 I am more upset about the way they "run" their business and the lack of honesty rather than the wait.


----------



## zilch0md




----------



## Poimandres

That's a nice ride. Is that yours Mike?


----------



## mikemercer

poimandres said:


> That's a nice ride. Is that yours Mike?


 
 that is a nice ride!
 Forget the Geek Out 1000!
  
 You need a Light Harmonic DaVinci DAC for that beast!
  
 on the Geek Out tip:
  
 I brought mine to the Newport show to play for people in our hotel room, as I've played a ton of music through it since our review at _Part-Time Audiophile, _and the dimensionality grew - the spacial placement has even more air now - HOWEVER:
  
 My buddy almost killed his ear-drums because of the volume-control issue (how it resets back to maximum on
 the Geek Out if I touch the volume controls on my MacBook Pro by mistake)
  
 Larry:
 Can that be fixed via Firmware????
  
 Other than that - the sonics have only improved on my end, and I LOVE driving my new Audeze LCD-2 w/ Fazor with the Geek!!


----------



## rdsu

mikemercer said:


> Larry:
> Can that be fixed via Firmware????


 
  
 They will soon release a new firmware to change that, and also to support Native DSD...


----------



## deanderson

This may have been mentioned on this thread already, but I've looked and can't find out what dac the geek out uses? I remember somewhere reading it is a Sabre dac - can anyone give more info?
  
 I have a GO450 on the way and I'm interested.
  
 Thanks!


----------



## germay0653

deanderson said:


> This may have been mentioned on this thread already, but I've looked and can't find out what dac the geek out uses? I remember somewhere reading it is a Sabre dac - can anyone give more info?
> 
> I have a GO450 on the way and I'm interested.
> 
> Thanks!


 

 ESS 9018M - mobile version of 9018.  Requires less power to drive.


----------



## miceblue

rdsu said:


> mikemercer said:
> 
> 
> > Larry:
> ...


One of the big selling points for the Geek Out was that it can play DSD. Can it not play DSD right now or something?


----------



## rdsu

miceblue said:


> One of the big selling points for the Geek Out was that it can play DSD. Can it not play DSD right now or something?


 
  
 Currently it can by DoP, but after this update you still can by DoP or by Native DSD(through ASIO driver).


----------



## zilch0md

zilch0md said:


>







poimandres said:


> That's a nice ride. Is that yours Mike?




No. I posted that photo as a joke that it seems nobody got. And I'd only be sticking the other foot in my mouth if I try to explain the joke.



Mike


----------



## Poimandres

No matter do you have a geekout? Curious on your thoughts versus the dacport.


----------



## zilch0md

poimandres said:


> No matter do you have a geekout? Curious on your thoughts versus the dacport.




Strike two! I don't have one of those either! 

I'm waiting for them to fix the volume control issue and for the waiting list to diminish, but from what I've read, the sound is wonderful, for sure.

Mike


----------



## citraian

Oh come on, you made me curious. Just explain the joke


----------



## earfonia

poimandres said:


> No matter do you have a geekout? Curious on your thoughts versus the dacport.




I have DACport and GO 450. They have different sound signature. GO doesn't replaced my DACport, for some pairings, DACport sounds better, more organic sound, and a touch warmer.

IMHO my GO 450 sounds detailed and powerful, with slightly richer treble, but also sometime sounds a bit dry, and a bit sterile when compared to DACport.

GO also has higher background noise, and DACport is more silent.

DACport has a very organic sound, never sound dry and sterile. With analytics IEM, DACport sounds much better than GO 450.

But for warm sounding IEM, especially those with soft treble, like JVC FX850 for example, I like Geek Out better.


----------



## jexby

Having owned DACport in the past, and a GO450 now- suppose I concur on the organic vs a bit "dry" comparison.
But do you have a GO1000 ? Because GO450 is dead black silent background with my IEMs and HP50.

sold DACport long ago due to scratchy volume knob and form factor.
How do DSD files sound via your DACport?


----------



## earfonia

jexby said:


> Having owned DACport in the past, and a GO450 now- suppose I concur on the organic vs a bit "dry" comparison.
> But do you have a GO1000 ? Because GO450 is dead black silent background with my IEMs and HP50.
> 
> sold DACport long ago due to scratchy volume knob and form factor.
> How do DSD files sound via your DACport?


 
  
 I don't have GO 1000, and I cannot imagine in what condition will I need 1000 mW power, where I'm still struggling with around max 20 usable volume levels with GO 450 (on windows volume slider). I have big headphones, like ortho dynamic, but I prefer to keep it home and pair it with my desktop amp rather than the powerful GO.  So GO will mainly for portable use with IEM and small easy to drive headphones on the go.  And I think 450 mW is a bit too high for my portable use.
  
 I notice that different USB ports resulting different level of background noise on GO 450. So, I suspect that the GO analog section kind of prone to USB 5 volt ripple noise. I will try to DIY a clean 5 volt, and try it with GO later.  But in all cases, using DUNU DN-1000 and DN-2000, DACport is more silent than GO 450. Apparent when plunging and unplugging the IEM to the headphone output.  I tried the 47 ohm output of GO, connected to external amp, Fiio E12DIY, dead silent. I guess the 0.47 ohm amp section is prone to USB noise. So far the noise is most heard on the DUNUs, and less with other IEM.
  
 DACport scratchy volume knob is not due to volume pot quality, but due to the entire design of the amp.  The amp convert the single rail 5 volt supply from USB port to dual rail + and - power supply for the class A amplifier in DACport. Due to this design, scratchy noise when volume pot is turned is expected, and not due to low quality or deteriorate volume pot.
  
 DSD files sounds good on GO 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, with expected differences from the same PCM track, comparing to my other DSD DACs and players. DSD files generally always sounds smoother on the treble with fuller mids.  Quite consistent from DAC to DAC.
  
 For some recordings, DSD and the PCM files converted from the DSD files, DSD play using GO, and PCM using DACport, using the DUNUs, it would be depending on the recordings. For some recording, mainly vocal I still prefer the pairing of DACport and the DUNUs.  Vocal sounds more organic and more intimate to my ears.  GO has better detail, for some recordings like classical orchestra, it shines better than the DACport, and pairs well with the DUNUs for those type of recordings.  So depending on the recordings, not so on the format.
  
 In general, when the recording sounds too vibrant and glaring on GO, the DACport is the DAC of choice. When the recording sounds too smooth and a bit dull on DACport, GO will brings out more detail and sparkle, and would be the better choice of the two.
 The PCM vs DSD differences is not as much as the differences of the sound characteristic of the headphone amps. So DSD feature alone is not good enough to make me sell my DACport 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 They are good in their own ways.  There is no gear fits all.  Pairing and matching is always the key for optimum sound.  It is not about which gear is better than the other.


----------



## doublea71

For those with a 450, is there any background noise with sensitive iems? I have Miracles, so I'm curious. Also, they are offering an "iem upgrade" for the Geek Wave to deal with sensitive iems (but it also means it won't be any good with fullsize headphones that aren't efficient) and the top of the line model has the same output power as the 450. I'm trying to figure out if I can skip the upgrade. Sorry for the slight derail, guys and gals.


----------



## Roscoeiii

I have the 450 and there is very slight hiss with my sensitive and low impedance Shure 846s. But I find it barely noticeable. If you need the blackest blacks, then it may not be ideal. But I don't know how the sensitivity and impedance of the Miracles compares to my 846s. 
  
 By way of comparison, the level of hiss on the iDSD was unacceptable with my 846s, which was too bad since it was an excellent DAC/amp otherwise.


----------



## doublea71

roscoeiii said:


> I have the 450 and there is very slight hiss with my sensitive and low impedance Shure 846s. But I find it barely noticeable. If you need the blackest blacks, then it may not be ideal. But I don't know how the sensitivity and impedance of the Miracles compares to my 846s.
> 
> By way of comparison, the level of hiss on the iDSD was unacceptable with my 846s, which was too bad since it was an excellent DAC/amp otherwise.


 

 I think they're around 16 ohms/120dBl. Yet many have said that they sound fantastic with the DX100, which is fairly powerful if I'm not mistaken - I'm pretty sure any hiss would have been mentioned by those touting that combo, but it's possible that it's just low, not non-existent.


----------



## Roscoeiii

And the 846 are 114dB with 9 Ohm impedance.


----------



## earfonia

doublea71 said:


> For those with a 450, is there any background noise with sensitive iems? I have Miracles, so I'm curious. Also, they are offering an "iem upgrade" for the Geek Wave to deal with sensitive iems (but it also means it won't be any good with fullsize headphones that aren't efficient) and the top of the line model has the same output power as the 450. I'm trying to figure out if I can skip the upgrade. Sorry for the slight derail, guys and gals.


 
  
 Yes, there is a little background noise. Quite noticeable on my DN-1000 and DN-2000, but not so with ATH-IM50 and ATH-IM70.  More towards high frequency hiss.  And the noise level varied with different usb ports.
 What they need to include with the DAC or DAP is gain switch. So it will be usable for both IEM and headphones.


----------



## doublea71

earfonia said:


> Yes, there is a little background noise. Quite noticeable on my DN-1000 and DN-2000, but not so with ATH-IM50 and ATH-IM70.  More towards high frequency hiss.  And the noise level varied with different usb ports.
> What they need to include with the DAC or DAP is gain switch. So it will be usable for both IEM and headphones.


 

 It is only available on the TOTL XD128, which would bring it to a total of $1028 (they install a gain switch on it if you get the iem perk, but only on the XD128). The THD option for full-size cans is no longer available for some reason...so much for choices, eh? I may take a chance and get the X128 which has 320mW output power as opposed to the XD's 450. I'm not sure I really need the balanced HO, so it is possible I'll go with an even lower model and maybe spring for a couple additional perks. I'm thinking the X128 right now with the dual dac perk (+$68, bringing it to $597).


----------



## Audio Addict

doublea71 said:


> It is only available on the TOTL XD128, which would bring it to a total of $1028 (they install a gain switch on it if you get the iem perk, but only on the XD128). The THD option for full-size cans is no longer available for some reason...so much for choices, eh? I may take a chance and get the X128 which has 320mW output power as opposed to the XD's 450. I'm not sure I really need the balanced HO, so it is possible I'll go with an even lower model and maybe spring for a couple additional perks. I'm thinking the X128 right now with the dual dac perk (+$68, bringing it to $597).




Check the latest 999,999 perks. They have gone all out to hit the $1 million.


----------



## periofab

Has anybody been able to compare the GO with the hrt microStreamer yet ?


----------



## jexby

periofab said:


> Has anybody been able to compare the GO with the hrt microStreamer yet ?


 
  
 Mike Mercer has, repeated multiple times.
  
 IIRC
 "Geek Out is like the microstreamer on steroids."


----------



## NinjaHamster

jexby said:


> Mike Mercer has, repeated multiple times.
> 
> IIRC
> "Geek Out is like the microstreamer on steroids."


 
 Which would make it an overblown and overly aggressive sound ...


----------



## periofab

Thanks, yes I've already carefully read his really interesting impressions; I'd just like a few more details if possible, because I found this specific sentence quite vague nonetheless.


----------



## jexby

I owned the microstreamer for 2 weeks, months ago and while it was articulate and clear it didn't "wow" me at the time. 
 it also didn't accept some features from Audirvana+ on my mac (upsampling + something else, can't recall)
 returned microstreamer for the nano iDSD for the battery powered feature, amongst others.
  
 truth be told, after hearing desktop setups the GO450 didn't "wow" me either, although surely appreciate it's small size, mW power, DSD playback and the "front row" sound stage placement.
 it's 3D feature can best be described as awful for IEMs or sensitive headphones like HP50.
  
 GO450 has remained my work/desk unit and don't find it overblown or aggressive with HP50 headphones.  up front, yes.  detailed and accurate, yes.
 not bloated or overloaded IMO.


----------



## miceblue

For what it's worth, I own the Geek Out 450 (which should sound pretty much on par with the GO 1000) and it sounds pretty darn close to the Objective DAC/Objective 2, if not slightly better. That's probably the highest honour I can give to a DAC/amp given the meticulous design behind the ODAC/O2 and how good it stacks up to other high-end audio equipment. For $300 USD I don't think I can recommend anything else that does what the GO does.

And yes the GO 450 drives my inefficient, 600 Ω, AKG K240 Monitor just fine. I just have to turn up the volume level near 75% most of the time, but it works and it sounds every bit as good as on the Objective 2, which has much more voltage output.


----------



## periofab

Thanks Jexby ! Actually I'm going to purchase either the microStreamer or the GO450 (same price) to pair with my HD 598. The former came highly recommended, before I read about the latter... And now it's a dilemma !


----------



## deanderson

I had the micro streamer a while back and I feel that the GO is much more organic and dynamic, for what it's worth, although I don't remember the micro streamer very well. Details "pop" out a lot more on the GO, it has more authority, while the micro streamer was not laid back, but less punchy. 
  
 I enjoy the GO more.


----------



## pearljam50000

Can the volume issue damage the headphones?


----------



## Sinocelt

pearljam50000 said:


> Can the volume issue damage the headphones?


 
  
 Probably not. Your ears, on the other hand ...


----------



## periofab

deanderson said:


> I had the micro streamer a while back and I feel that the GO is much more organic and dynamic, for what it's worth, although I don't remember the micro streamer very well. Details "pop" out a lot more on the GO, it has more authority, while the micro streamer was not laid back, but less punchy.
> 
> I enjoy the GO more.


 

 Thanks a lot for your input ! May I ask what kind of music do you listen to ?


----------



## deanderson

I listen to a wide variety of stuff:
  
 Lately I've been listening to a lot of The Bad Plus, Rumpstol, Balam Acab, but I also listen to music like Every Time I Die and Hip Hop.
  
 Mainly electronic music and jazz, but some metal.


----------



## periofab

deanderson said:


> I listen to a wide variety of stuff:
> 
> Lately I've been listening to a lot of The Bad Plus, Rumpstol, Balam Acab, but I also listen to music like Every Time I Die and Hip Hop.
> 
> Mainly electronic music and jazz, but some metal.


 

 Good to know, thank you ! I wonder how the GO behaves with classical and orchestral music and if it's a good match or not, could anyone enlighten me on this point ?


----------



## pearljam50000

Has anyone tried upsampling to DSD or DXD?


----------



## miceblue

pearljam50000 said:


> Has anyone tried upsampling to DSD or DXD?



I can't upsample to DSD with the Audirvana Plus software on OS X, but I can choose "maximum rate upsampling," which can sample music at 384 or 352.8 kHz. Things sound the same to me though, as expected.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Yes to DSD128 with JRMC in Win 7, very very nice! 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## jexby

Since when did Resonessence improve volume control on iDevices?
Had mine for 2 weeks with iPhone, and had to crank slider up to 2/3 to hear any decent sound (HD600), and the next slight increase was way too loud.

Much prefer nano iDSD with IEMs or NAD HP50.


----------



## shotgunshane

jexby said:


> Since when did Resonessence improve volume control on iDevices?
> Had mine for 2 weeks with iPhone, and had to crank slider up to 2/3 to hear any decent sound (HD600), and the next slight increase was way too loud.
> 
> Much prefer nano iDSD with IEMs or NAD HP50.




Supposedly they pushed a firmware update to fix but I sold mine before that. If it's still an issue, try the Canopener app on iOS- it's a must have with the Herus for excellent volume control IMO.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## mikemercer

mikeyfresh said:


> GO1000 DSD64 playback through Onkyo HF Player iPad app, quite nice, although as expected, volume control issues.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Sucks you're having the gain control issues with this rig!
 That issue (the buttons - and how the gain resets back to FULL on the Geek Out 1000 when I adjust the volume on my MacBook Pro) - Larry should figure out a fix for that!
 I bet some people on the fence about the Geek Out 1000 would JUMP if that was resolved! As the sonics are pure bliss-out stuff!!!!
  
 I also noticed you have the "3D" imaging circuit on in the pic (yes?)- how you do like that?

 I found it was a cool effect with experimental electronic stuff, but that acoustic recordings lost their spacial location properties
 (sounded more like ear-candy on that kinda material to me) but, it does have a noticeable sonic impact on the sound immediately after engaging it!!


----------



## mikemercer

georgelai57 said:


> Eerie coincidental karma Michael. As I'm reading your post #1, my tweet that you favorited flashed across my screen.


----------



## MikeyFresh

mikemercer said:


> Sucks you're having the gain control issues with this rig!
> That issue (the buttons - and how the gain resets back to FULL on the Geek Out 1000 when I adjust the volume on my MacBook Pro) - Larry should figure out a fix for that!
> I bet some people on the fence about the Geek Out 1000 would JUMP if that was resolved! As the sonics are pure bliss-out stuff!!!!
> 
> ...


 

 The volume issue in this set-up wasn't too big a deal, I didn't get my ears blasted.
  
 But I wasn't really able to reliably get either the GO1000 to stay maxed out on it's hardware buttons and then make my adjustments via the HF Player software slider, nor the vice verse, i.e. HF player slider maxed out and make the adjustments via the GO1000 buttons.
  
 It seemed that one or the other kept getting reset downward, which I guess is much better/preferable than reset to max/ears blown! Still somewhat dodgy with respect to volume control however.
  
 I fully agree about the "blissful sonics" though, all volume issues aside, I am still (several months later) consistently impressed with this unit in terms of sound quality. I never expected a tiny bus powered device to be this good, it's actually staggeringly good as a line level DAC connected to a Sugden Headmaster pre/headphone amp and powered speakers in my bedroom system with a Mac mini running Audirvana+, or BitPerfect DSD Master. In that arrangement, there's no volume control issue, just pure music (pun intended)!
  
 That blue LED you see in the photo isn't the 3D circuit indicator, it's the DSD indicator that's lit up.
  
 The 3D indicator LED is the first one in the row of 4 (also blue colored but not illuminated in that photo).


----------



## jcwc

axelcloris said:


> The Schiit Wyrd is available now and reports are showing that it works well with the GO. Darin Fong posted a short blurb in another thread and his impressions speak highly of Schiit's little $99 linear power supply. So if you want something to tide you over until the LHLabs LPS is available, this may be it.
> 
> Could be nice to use instead of running straight out of the USB port.


 
  
 Eh, I didn't know LH is releasing its own LPS.
  
 Edit: I just read about the LH LPS. But it's not for me at $289. So the Wyrd will still be my frontrunner.


----------



## pearljam50000

Has anyone compared the Geekout to ibasso dx90


----------



## earfonia

pearljam50000 said:


> Has anyone compared the Geekout to ibasso dx90




I did some comparison here:
Review and comparison of DUNU DN-1000, DN-2000, & JVC HA-FX850 - http://www.head-fi.org/t/727286/review-and-comparison-of-dunu-dn-1000-dn-2000-jvc-ha-fx850

Not really comparing the GO 450 and DX90 directly, but used them in the IEM comparison instead.

GO 450 definitely more powerful and has better control than DX90, but has a bit of higher noise floor, and can be analytical sometime, depend on the pairing.


----------



## miceblue

earfonia said:


> pearljam50000 said:
> 
> 
> > Has anyone compared the Geekout to ibasso dx90
> ...



Oh you're having noise issues with the GO 450 too? I sent mine back to Light Harmonic thinking it was defective....apparently a handful of people are complaining about the high noise floor with sensitive headphones and earphones. >.>


----------



## earfonia

miceblue said:


> Oh you're having noise issues with the GO 450 too? I sent mine back to Light Harmonic thinking it was defective....apparently a handful of people are complaining about the high noise floor with sensitive headphones and earphones. >.>


 
  
 Hi Miceblue, I'm the same guy in Geek Temple who reported the 3 mV noise floor of the Geek Out 450.
  
 http://geek.lhlabs.com/force/kickstartergeekout/866-who-received-the-geek-out.html?start=875#26544
  
 Larry said it suppose to be less than 3mV, but until I test another unit, mine has around 3mV noise floor.
  
 Noise floor without any audio output (All DACs volume was set to 0.5 Vpp at 0 dB 100 Hz tone played from foobar):
  
 Geek Out 450

  
 DACport

  
 Dragonfly 1.0c


----------



## doctorjazz

Interesting, have theGO 1K and the iBasso, but because of the way they work, have tended to use the iBasso with my iem's and while out and about, the GO at my desktop with over the ear headphones so haven't directly compared them. Haven't noticed the noise issue with Senn 650 Shure 1540, FAD Love VI, but likely more difficult to drive than the iems (though I do find the JVC 850 benefits from a good amp).


----------



## earfonia

doctorjazz said:


> Interesting, have theGO 1K and the iBasso, but because of the way they work, have tended to use the iBasso with my iem's and while out and about, the GO at my desktop with over the ear headphones so haven't directly compared them. Haven't noticed the noise issue with Senn 650 Shure 1540, FAD Love VI, but likely more difficult to drive than the iems (though I do find the JVC 850 benefits from a good amp).


 
  
  I can't hear the noise on headphones and some of my IEMs.  Mostly audible with my DUNU DN-2000 and DN-1000.  Didn't really hear the noise with JVC FX850 either.
 So the noise is very soft, and not always audible, only on some very sensitive IEMs.


----------



## miceblue

earfonia said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > Oh you're having noise issues with the GO 450 too? I sent mine back to Light Harmonic thinking it was defective....apparently a handful of people are complaining about the high noise floor with sensitive headphones and earphones. >.>
> ...



Oh hey there, I didn't know you're on Head-Fi too! : )

Yeah the noise issue seems to be a thing with the GO 450 from recent posts. :/


----------



## earfonia

miceblue said:


> Oh hey there, I didn't know you're on Head-Fi too! : )
> 
> Yeah the noise issue seems to be a thing with the GO 450 from recent posts. :/




I'm interested to know, how many of the Geek Out users with sensitive IEMs hear the noise floor of the Geek Out.

Also someone with an oscilloscope maybe can help to measure Geek Out noise floor. I measured many times, always around 3 mV or more.


----------



## longbowbbs

earfonia said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > Oh hey there, I didn't know you're on Head-Fi too! : )
> ...


 
 It has not bothered me with the JH16's. Once the music start I cannot hear anything in the background.


----------



## AxelCloris

earfonia said:


> I'm interested to know, how many of the Geek Out users with sensitive IEMs hear the noise floor of the Geek Out.
> 
> Also someone with an oscilloscope maybe can help to measure Geek Out noise floor. I measured many times, always around 3 mV or more.


 
  
 I requested a delivery update for my red GO 1000 (which LHLabs has in stock, according to Amazon) yesterday so I imagine I'll have a response on Monday. I'll be testing it with my CIEM right off the bat because I want to know if I'll be having noise issues. Hopefully I don't run into the same noise floor issues others have experienced.


----------



## earfonia

longbowbbs said:


> It has not bothered me with the JH16's. Once the music start I cannot hear anything in the background.


 
  
 Before the music start, any 'hiss' noise?


----------



## longbowbbs

earfonia said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > It has not bothered me with the JH16's. Once the music start I cannot hear anything in the background.
> ...


 
 Barely, unless I crank it...What is the point of that? I don't listen at that level ever so it is not a problem.


----------



## earfonia

longbowbbs said:


> Barely, unless I crank it...What is the point of that? I don't listen at that level ever so it is not a problem.




This is the first time i hear hiss noise from a small portable DAC. I expect GO to have at least to have the same low noise performance as other DACs.
But you're right. When the music started, it doesn't matter.


----------



## miceblue

earfonia said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > Barely, unless I crank it...What is the point of that? I don't listen at that level ever so it is not a problem.
> ...



Interesting. I tend to listen to music at very low volume levels with isolating headphones/earphones and I still noticed the background noise with my unit (it wasn't as loud, but it was still there).


----------



## earfonia

miceblue said:


> Interesting. I tend to listen to music at very low volume levels with isolating headphones/earphones and I still noticed the background noise with my unit (it wasn't as loud, but it was still there).




Maybe yours has higher than 3 mV noise floor.


----------



## longbowbbs

miceblue said:


> earfonia said:
> 
> 
> > longbowbbs said:
> ...


 
 I have never had that experience with the GO1000.


----------



## miceblue

Yeah GO 1000 people seem to not report any noise issues, which is weird. Pretty much anyone with a GO 1000 will say the same thing.


----------



## jcwc

miceblue said:


> Oh you're having noise issues with the GO 450 too? I sent mine back to Light Harmonic thinking it was defective....apparently a handful of people are complaining about the high noise floor with sensitive headphones and earphones. >.>


 
  
 What is defined as sensitive earphones? I also have a GO 450 but I don't hear any hiss or noise at all via my Sennheiser MX 985 earbuds (but perhaps these are not classified as sensitive).


----------



## jcwc

Another question: does installing and using the Geek driver mean that the KMIXER on Win XP is bypassed automatically?


----------



## earfonia

jcwc said:


> What is defined as sensitive earphones? I also have a GO 450 but I don't hear any hiss or noise at all via my Sennheiser MX 985 earbuds (but perhaps these are not classified as sensitive).


 
  
 Good question!
 I think IEM that would let us hear the noise floor of GO 450, is the definition of sensitive earphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Just kidding 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Noise floor most of the time would be heard as 'hiss' noise, high frequency noise. Some IEMs are soft on the treble, so less sensitive to high frequency noise.
 Official definition of sensitive IEM would be, IEM that require very little power or voltage swing to produce sufficient loudness.  Or higher dB per mV.


----------



## miceblue

jcwc said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > Oh you're having noise issues with the GO 450 too? I sent mine back to Light Harmonic thinking it was defective....apparently a handful of people are complaining about the high noise floor with sensitive headphones and earphones. >.>
> ...



I heard it with my V-MODA Crossfade M-100 (36 Ω impedance at 1 kHz, 0.03 mW needed to get to 90 dB SPL), Sennheiser CX300-B (now discontinued, so I don't know the exact specifications for this; for the CX300 II Sennheiser rates it at 16 Ω, 113 dB SPL/mW), Shure SE215-CL (18 Ω impedance at 1 kHz, 0.06 mW needed to get to 90 dB SPL), and JLab J5 in-ear earphone (rated at 16 Ω, 92 +/-3dB).

Nothing too fancy at all; no funky balanced armature earphones either. One could classify my earphones as "consumer grade" rather than what an "audiophile" would consider and yet I heard the hissing without much effort.


----------



## jcwc

The only specs I can find on my MX 985 is 16Ω, 120 dB SPL (1 kHz / 1 Vrms)


----------



## HPDJ

Hi all,
  
 Thanks for all your posts about the GO...I've tried to skim through this thread to gauge which GO would be best with the LCD 2's and just want to get a clear answer from some of you who have experience with that combo:
  
 1. Which version of the GO are you using with your LCD 2's: 450mW, 720mW or the 1000mW? I'm curious to see if I can get away with maybe a 720mW version for instance since it's a little cheaper than the 1000..
  
 2. These volume issues with the unit have me worried/concerned but if I'm correct, they only pertain to those using Macs right?
  
 Thanks for your help!
  
 Oh! Also, is there a 30 day trial period with the Geek out?? Can't seem to find that info on their site. Or what their warranty is..
  
 I just finished demoing an iDSD but found it lacking in power with my LCD 2's..


----------



## NinjaHamster

1) Not sure.
  
 2) Nope - other way around. The problem occurs on PC.


----------



## miceblue

hpdj said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Thanks for all your posts about the GO...I've tried to skim through this thread to gauge which GO would be best with the LCD 2's and just want to get a clear answer from some of you who have experience with that combo:
> 
> ...



GO 720 should be fine with the LCD-2 for the most part, unless you plan to listen to very dynamic music at loud listening levels (in which the GO 1000 would probably be better).

As mentioned above, the volume issues are with Windows. In OS X the volume control is pretty straight-forward.


----------



## HPDJ

Oh geeeez I don't know how I figured the volume issues were Mac related....wishful thinking probably since I'm a PC guy right now. Sort of hard to invest in a product that has a pretty big glaring issue, sound quality aside..
  
 If/when I decide to purchase it I might just try the 720 version first....but I do still need to be clear on their return policy cuz I'd hate to be stuck with the unit if I didn't feel it had enough power.
  
 Thanks for your help


----------



## Sinocelt

hpdj said:


> Oh geeeez I don't know how I figured the volume issues were Mac related....wishful thinking probably since I'm a PC guy right now. Sort of hard to invest in a product that has a pretty big glaring issue, sound quality aside..


 
  
 Word. I used mine ONCE. Since then, it's been a shiny paperweight on my desk. I'm back to using the (excellent) DACport.


----------



## earfonia

sinocelt said:


> Word. I used mine ONCE. Since then, it's been a shiny paperweight on my desk. I'm back to using the (excellent) DACport.


 
  
 +1
 After almost 1 month with GO 450, I keep going back to use my DACport. My GO 450 somehow lacking musicality. Powerful, detailed, but a bit too sterile to my ears. And it doesn't have the 3D imaging and spaciousness of DACport.


----------



## Poimandres

The form factor is much better though on the go


----------



## jcwc

sinocelt said:


> Word. I used mine ONCE. Since then, it's been a shiny paperweight on my desk. I'm back to using the (excellent) DACport.


 
  
 I guess it was the volume issue that turned you off the Geek Out?


----------



## atsq17

jcwc said:


> I guess it was the volume issue that turned you off the Geek Out?


 
  
 I like my Geek Out. It doesn't compete with my expensive set up but it's fantastic for a quick fix on the go. 
  
 I also think thought (notice past tense) that maybe the volume issue was being blown out of proportion. I got nailed by the full blast volume once or twice before and I thought it was no biggie; I'll just be careful. 
  
 However, today I was trying to get work done and I needed something to relax me and I put on my IEMs without realizing the volume was automaxed yet again and I got a real jolt when the sound blasted my ears. It was then that I felt that this issue is starting to eat into my enjoyment of what would otherwise be an excellent product that I enjoy using.


----------



## Sinocelt

jcwc said:


> I guess it was the volume issue that turned you off the Geek Out?


 
  
 Yes. I was careful and _still _got my ears blasted out.
  
 LH has been way too busy crowdfunding two other products to ensure the first one, not even out the door, worked properly. Sure, they made a ton of money that way, but I can't say I'm impressed by this company's ethics.


----------



## earfonia

I got a couple of blast from GO 450, almost blown up my DN-2000.
 But now after knowing it's behaviour, I can use it safely.
 It's a shame until now Light Harmonic haven't come up with a patch to fix this Blasting Ear Drum bug.
  
 I prefer the GO for headphones rather than IEMs.  For IEMs, I stick with DACport and Dragonfly, sounds cleaner with bigger sound stage.
  
 But for my planar, Hfiman HE5-LE, GO 450 performs very well, frankly I'm quite impressed with GO 450 driving HE5-LE.  GO surprisingly manage to drive HE5-LE quite well.


----------



## Sinocelt

earfonia said:


> I got a couple of blast from GO 450, almost blown up my DN-2000.


 
  
 I got a GO 1000, thinking it'd work with headphones and IEMs both. I most often use the latter, though, and all my headphones are currently in transit after an international move, anyway. So imagine the blast I took.


----------



## earfonia

sinocelt said:


> I got a GO 1000, thinking it'd work with headphones and IEMs both. I most often use the latter, though, and all my headphones are currently in transit after an international move, anyway. So imagine the blast I took.


----------



## doublea71

earfonia said:


>


 

 I hate reading about this stuff still happening - it's pretty shameful and LH better get their act together from a customer service perspective.


----------



## mtruong34

The volume bug is a bigger problem when using IEMs and CIEMs.  Sometimes you can't get them off fast enough before getting a full dose max blast.


----------



## doctorjazz

I still get the volume blast as well, try to be careful, occasionally forget, it can be quite uncomfortable, even with full size headphones. The other issue I haven't figured out yet is how to get my powered speakers back in use-since connecting the GO1k, no sound out of them, even when I disconnect the Geek, I can listen to YouTube, but only when I disconnect the GO and plug headphones into the PC, otherwise anything with sound from my web browser is silent. Likely some sort of settings issue, but don't know how to fix. Frustrating. I agree they had 10 products to launch and haven't tended to the initial release as I think they should have (having pre sold the later offerings takes some of the pressure off...if there was this much bad feedback about the 1st product a company produced, the next one released would have a hard time attracting more customers likely, once they read about the initial complaints. Not an issue, as Wave and Pulse are fully subscribed. Hope they will get it together, won't carry them forever, especially with other products coming along to compete.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I just don't touch the volume buttons on the GO. And I am done.


----------



## earfonia

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> I just don't touch the volume buttons on the GO. And I am done.




I observed, the volume buttons operate the digital volume, not the analog attenuator.

Any idea what is the consideration for the digital volume and not the analog volume?

While the windows volume fader operates the analog attenuator.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Few pages back i posted this on my obervations on volume control. Hope it helps.
  
http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/615#post_10562634


----------



## Sinocelt

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Few pages back i posted this on my obervations on volume control. Hope it helps.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/615#post_10562634


 
  


> Reducing Master Volume from Control Panel (in my case, half) will eliminate this problem.


 
  
 I did that first. Pushing the physical button still made the sound go from a murmur to a roar.


----------



## Poimandres

I have yet to even use my 450 for this very reason. I may put it in the fs forum, I am very happy with the o2/odac combo.


----------



## yungyaw

doctorjazz said:


> I still get the volume blast as well, try to be careful, occasionally forget, it can be quite uncomfortable, even with full size headphones. The other issue I haven't figured out yet is how to get my powered speakers back in use-since connecting the GO1k, no sound out of them, even when I disconnect the Geek, I can listen to YouTube, but only when I disconnect the GO and plug headphones into the PC, otherwise anything with sound from my web browser is silent. Likely some sort of settings issue, but don't know how to fix. Frustrating. I agree they had 10 products to launch and haven't tended to the initial release as I think they should have (having pre sold the later offerings takes some of the pressure off...if there was this much bad feedback about the 1st product a company produced, the next one released would have a hard time attracting more customers likely, once they read about the initial complaints. Not an issue, as Wave and Pulse are fully subscribed. Hope they will get it together, won't carry them forever, especially with other products coming along to compete.


 
  
 Are you having trouble getting sound from your browser, but other music player apps work fine? Are you using Chrome? I'm having issue with Chrome as well , but other browsers (Firefox, Safari) are OK. Try check out my post in Geek Force forum: http://lhlabs.com/force/beta/1022-no-sound-from-google-chrome.html
  
 You just need to set your sampling rate to anything below 352.8kHz or 384kHz. Somehow Chrome is not able to play sound at that sample rate.
  
 Hope that helps.


----------



## HPDJ

OK so what are ALL the ways folks have been dealing with this volume issue? Someone mentioned setting their control panel volume half way and not touching the buttons on the GO....has this worked for others (seems like it hasn't for at least one person). Would I always have to pretty much start music without my headphones on just to play it safe?? That's not fun at all :/


----------



## georgelai57

Mac user with Audirvana+. Leave GO at max once and for all and adjust volumes using A+ as well as Apple's remote. No nasty surprises on every boot-up


----------



## earfonia

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Few pages back i posted this on my obervations on volume control. Hope it helps.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/615#post_10562634


 
  
 Thank you for your observation!
  
 Hopefully LH could give some reasoning why the physical volume buttons operate the Digital volume control instead of the analog one.
  
 Btw, I think rather than buggy volume buttons that operate only digital volume control, I rather have gain switch for the analog amplifier gain.
 The gain switch will make the GO more useful for both IEMs and Headphones.


----------



## songmic

Has everyone received their Geek Out? I pre-ordered mine in February, but so far there has been no news of its arrival. I was told that I would get a notification once it's shipped out, but nothing yet. I'm starting to get tired of waiting, because it seems that most folks who pre-ordered it early got theirs.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Bro, register in lhlabs.com and open a 'ticket' in the support page.


----------



## jcwc

sinocelt said:


> I did that first. Pushing the physical button still made the sound go from a murmur to a roar.


 
  
 Yeah, the volume bug is directly linked to usage of the physical buttons. One touch and it sets the Windows volume to max and you get an earfull!
  
 For myself, this bug doesn't manifest because I don't use the physical buttons at all (after knowing about the bug). I control everything via Windows. So that is my workaround and I'm quite happy.
  
 However, this is just a workaround and doesn't negate the fact that there is still a volume bug when using the physical buttons.
  


sinocelt said:


> Yes. I was careful and _still _got my ears blasted out.
> 
> LH has been way too busy crowdfunding two other products to ensure the first one, not even out the door, worked properly. Sure, they made a ton of money that way, but I can't say I'm impressed by this company's ethics.


 
  
 +1
  
 I agree that they are doing a massive product roll out while sacrificing the end-user experience. The first obvious one is timely product delivery (I still see a few complaints of people not receiving their GO and I heard that the ship date for the Geek Pulse has been pushed back again). Secondly is polishing up the product, again the obvious one being the volume bug on the GO.
  
 LH could definitely have managed the whole thing better.


----------



## zenpunk

I pre-ordered mine in December and finally received mine two weeks ago after opening a couple of tickets.


----------



## jcwc

hpdj said:


> OK so what are ALL the ways folks have been dealing with this volume issue? Someone mentioned setting their control panel volume half way and not touching the buttons on the GO....has this worked for others (seems like it hasn't for at least one person). Would I always have to pretty much start music without my headphones on just to play it safe?? That's not fun at all :/


 
  
 Basically my advice is stay away from the physical buttons on the GO.
  
 For me I set the Windows control panel volume to about 1/3 and leave it there. Any further changes to the volume (to suit the material) I control from the player, e.g. foobar.
  
 Works for me and I keep my headphones and active speakers plugged into the GO full time.


----------



## HPDJ

Got it, no touching of the physical buttons on the GO should help to keep me from any sudden blast of music at full volume. Alrighty appreciate


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Yep, use the system / application volume. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## jcwc

hpdj said:


> Got it, no touching of the physical buttons on the GO should help to keep me from any sudden blast of music at full volume. Alrighty appreciate


 
  
 At least until LH fixes the bug. I hear they are beta testing the firmware now, but who knows how long until it is released.


----------



## Poimandres

The product shouldn't have been released with an issue like that. They should focus on completing one product prior to nickel and dining everyone to death on multiple new ventures. This is likely my first and last LH product.


----------



## Gilly87

Wow, really glad I didn't preorder with all these late arrivals and volume bugs...guess this is why preorders are discounted!!

Really looking forward to the finished product. Anyone know which Geek Out would be best for the HD 700? Probably the 750?


----------



## AxelCloris

gilly87 said:


> Wow, really glad I didn't preorder with all these late arrivals and volume bugs...guess this is why preorders are discounted!!
> 
> Really looking forward to the finished product. Anyone know which Geek Out would be best for the HD 700? Probably the 750?


 
  
 A key thing to note is that the volume issue pertains mostly to Windows users. I see in your signature that you have an iMac. I've not experienced volume issues once with my MBP. And late arrivals are a common occurrence in crowdfunding campaigns.


----------



## Poimandres

Late arrivals are fine, it gave them more time to focus on releasing a finished product. Instead they shifted their focus from releasing a stable product to multiple crowd funding campaigns. Let's continue to milk the cash cow until it's dry.


----------



## No_One411

I received my Geek Out 720 from the Indiegogo campaign yesterday. They told me it was shipped 3 weeks ago, near the end of June....
  
 From a sound quality standpoint, the unit is petty nice. I would compare it favorably to the O2/ODAC combo. However, I'm not a big fan of the "3D Awesomfier" because it sounds really artificial to me. However, there is another reason why I probably won't touch the "3D Awesomfier" again. 
  
 I was a bit paranoid about touching the volume buttons after hearing about the volume problems. Now, in order to turn on the "3D Awesomefier", you need to simultaneously press both buttons, and it will turn on an indicator LED. 
  
 The first time I tried it, I think must have not completely depressed one of the buttons or something because volume suddenly turned all the way up and blasted my eardrums. I know this I has been said by lots of people already and there are "workarounds". However, I don't want to have to take a million precautions just to avoid blowing my ears due to a bad design! Judging from how slow the rest of their process has taken, I can't imagine the firmware update is coming out anytime soon. 
  
 For the meantime, I have switched back to using my O2/ODAC and Anedio D2. While the Geek Out is certainly a nice sounding product, it is not very intuitive, with a couple of pretty bad risks associated with it, and the company service is very lackluster. I hope Light Harmonic does improve upon both their product and company in the future, otherwise this will likely be the only experience I will have with them...


----------



## miceblue

Yup, I'd say it's a good alternative to the ODAC/O2. It's not too surprising to me that people compare the Geek Out to higher-end stuff, or say it's "dry" sounding since the ODAC/O2 gets similar impressions.


----------



## AxelCloris

miceblue said:


> Yup, I'd say it's a good alternative to the ODAC/O2. It's not too surprising to me that people compare the Geek Out to higher-end stuff, or say it's "dry" sounding since the ODAC/O2 gets similar impressions.


 
  
 Since you compare the Geek Out to the ODAC/O2 combo then I have some high hopes for the Pulse. I mean, if they can fit the same level of sound as the Objective equipment in a package as small as the GO then imagine what they can do with a mid-size desktop DAC/amp. I haven't had the opportunity to head the Objective stack yet but I can agree that the GO is one impressive little piece of kit.


----------



## SilverEars

no_one411 said:


> I received my Geek Out 720 from the Indiegogo campaign yesterday. They told me it was shipped 3 weeks ago, near the end of June....
> 
> From a sound quality standpoint, the unit is petty nice. I would compare it favorably to the O2/ODAC combo. However, I'm not a big fan of the "3D Awesomfier" because it sounds really artificial to me. However, there is another reason why I probably won't touch the "3D Awesomfier" again.
> 
> ...


 
 How is the resolvability compared to O2/ODAC?  Anedio D2?  I think the D2 is more resolving than the ODAC.  Where is the GO?


----------



## M3NTAL

Press and hold the down volume button first and while holding that position hit the volume up button to engage the 3D without  the volume going up.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

If you want to engage the 3D/or touch the buttons, BRING SYSTEM/APP VOLUME DOWN FIRST.


----------



## earfonia

m3ntal said:


> Press and hold the down volume button first and while holding that position hit the volume up button to engage the 3D without  the volume going up.






m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> If you want to engage the 3D/or touch the buttons, BRING SYSTEM/APP VOLUME DOWN FIRST.




For windows users, I consider the risk is higher than the benefit.


----------



## Matias

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> If you want to engage the 3D/or touch the buttons, BRING SYSTEM/APP VOLUME DOWN FIRST.




Or take the phones off just in case.


----------



## Cosmid

mikeyfresh said:


> Here is what it looks like, a bit tidier than the battery powered set-up.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Thanks for posting. Would you think the lighting port on iPad Air/Mini Retina would have more power, so it could support GO1000 without a power hub? Thanks.


----------



## No_One411

silverears said:


> How is the resolvability compared to O2/ODAC?  Anedio D2?  I think the D2 is more resolving than the ODAC.  Where is the GO?


 
  
 The Anedio D2 is the most resolving in the comparison. From my limited experience with the Geek Out 720, it is really similar in capabilities to the ODAC, perhaps slightly more resolving. 
  
 Now, I haven't been very interested in DACs ever since getting the Anedio D2, but I feel like the GO will be very competitive against most DACS in the $500 price point.
  


m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> If you want to engage the 3D/or touch the buttons, BRING SYSTEM/APP VOLUME DOWN FIRST.


 
 Luckily, I usually don't have my headphones when the volume bug occurs. When it resets to the "0" setting, or "BITPERFECT" as you call it, it's not a problem for my harder to drive headphones, like Paradox Slant or Enigma, but when it happens to my more portable, easier to drive headphones like KEF M500, you can hear the driver complaining in the short few seconds before I mute the sound. 
  
 I apologize if my impressions were overly harsh, or seemed like I wasn't willing to give the GO a chance. I like the device, I really do, and I'm trying to convince myself to ignore the shortcomings with the volume and service.


----------



## MikeyFresh

cosmid said:


> Thanks for posting. Would you think the lighting port on iPad Air/Mini Retina would have more power, so it could support GO1000 without a power hub? Thanks.


 
 Unfortunately it won't make a difference using a Lightning port device, there is still the same Apple imposed limitation on how much of the iDevice's battery they will allow any partnered device to use. The GO1000 requires too much juice.
  
 I have however resolved the issue of poor sound quality I was getting with the use of a USB battery and a y-split USB cable. The culprit was not a noisy 5 volt regulator in the battery as I had originally surmised, it was the freebie cheap quality y-split cable I had repurposed from an external hard drive.
  
 This week I received an *Apricorn y-split USB cable* which has thicker gauge wires and is just of better quality overall than that generic freebie that came with my external HDD. All sound quality issues vanished, using the same USB battery. An added plus is the female USB-A socket on the end that connects to the GO1000, eliminating the need for a gender changer adapter.
  
 So while still not the tidiest arrangement with iPad, at least it's truly portable and does not require any connection to the household AC power outlet:
  

  
 The unpowered USB hub inline on the data leg of the y-split cable is needed because even though the battery provides more than sufficient voltage and current for the GO1000, the iPad still receives the power requirement indication from the initial handshake with the GO1000's USB controller chip over the data leg, and the GO1000 reports itself as needing 500mA which is (much) more than iPad is willing to provide.
  
 To get around that you place an unpowered hub inline, it's own USB controller substitutes or supersedes that of the DAC, and reports it does not need any of the iPad's battery, tricking the iPad into completing the handshake and not serving up the text box message indicating an incompatible accessory (the DAC) due to excessive power requirement.


----------



## Gilly87

Could the GO720 be used with an Android? I want one source that I can use with my laptop and phone/tablet that will drive the HD700 properly. Should I be looking at this or the Meridian Explorer? Any other suggestions? Using the HRT Microstreamer at the moment, but it's bass is a little soft for my taste, and I feel like even my 32 ohm DT770s could use a bit more juice than it puts out; other than that it's awesome.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Yes! I'm using my GO1000 with my Galaxy Note 3 and Note 10. 2014 ed. tablet all on Android 4.4.2.
  
 Now with the current version of UAPP, you could now play even in DSD (w/ dff files only).
  
 Here Note 3 playing 2L's sample file in DSD128

  
  
 Playing Yamina in DSD128 from dsdfile.com

  
 But of course with the rest of Android devices, its a trial and error thing. Since USB audio is not yet officially supported. Glad we have UAPP and UARP around.


----------



## Gilly87

Hmmmm...guess I'll have some demoing to do at the meet next Friday!!


----------



## Suopermanni

Hey Head-Fi,
  
 I have just got my Silver Geek 1000 and I have a question. I'm getting occasional electrical noise/static from my Geek Out. I'm guessing this is noisy USB causing this. I would like to know how best to solve this. Using basic mobo USB port at back of comp.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Hi Rich,
  
 Try other usb inputs (esp. USB 2.0) in your mobo.
  
 Problem with the GO IMO, is that its sensitive. Picks up everything where you plug it into.
  
 Michael


----------



## zilch0md

suopermanni said:


> Hey Head-Fi,
> 
> I have just got my Silver Geek 1000 and I have a question. I'm getting occasional electrical noise/static from my Geek Out. I'm guessing this is noisy USB causing this. *I would like to know how best to solve this.* Using basic mobo USB port at back of comp.


 
  
 If the glitches are due to noisy power coming from your PC...
  
*For desktop use:*
  
 I can't say enough good things about this TeraDak PSU, which includes a very well made USB Y-cable, allowing you to pull only data from your PC or laptop, while 1 Amp worth of clean, regulated 5VDC power is provided by the PSU:
  
  

  

  

  

  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181467993450
  
 http://www.ab-system.hk/index.php?route=product/product&path=73&product_id=64
  
 Note:  This PSU does not include a mains power cord.  
  
 Here's a review by an Australian, who ordered from the HK dealer:  
  
 http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/index.php?/topic/57902-teradak-low-noise-linear-power-supply-cheap-and-clean-5v-usb-power-source/
  
 For the GO, when using the TeraDak Y-cable, you would also need one of these or one of these (or something similar) USB type B female to type A Female adapters.
  
 You'll also need something like this or this to provide data from your PC or laptop to the Y-cable.
  
  
*For mobile use:*
  
 Plug the TeraDak USB Y-cable into your choice of 5V Li-Ion battery packs.
  
 Ideally, you should select a battery pack that's capable of delivering at least 1A at 5V, and don't get one that's too small or it won't last very long between charge cycles.
  

  
 http://www.amazon.com/13000mAh-Portable-External-smartphones-lightning/dp/B00BQ5KHJW
  
 Mike


----------



## doublea71

^ Sort of defeats the purpose of a little usb dac/amp like the Geek Out....


----------



## MikeyFresh

+1 on post #916 and 917.
  
 You might also (if you haven't already) investigate music player software that grabs CPU thread priority and RAM for specific use in music playback. Yes that will undermine and slow down the machine's ability to multitask/function as an everyday computer, but you only need to use it for critical listening. Such software will shut off or minimize many of the other processes going on in the background that can cause clicks pops stutter during music playback.
  
 Also check your sound settings to be sure you are only routing music to the DAC, system sounds/alerts/notifications and the like should be sent to the computer's own speaker to avoid those interfering with sound quality.
  
 I also found that a Bluetooth mouse positioned too physically close to the DAC can cause the occasional click or pop.


----------



## MikeyFresh

doublea71 said:


> ^ Sort of defeats the purpose of a little usb dac/amp like the Geek Out....


 

 Unless the intended purpose is great sound quality. If the computer has lousy low quality power coming from it's USB ports (many do), you don't have a choice but to try to improve it.
  
 Only a real "burden" in a mobile sense, even there it's manageable but not from your pocket (the GO1000 gets too hot for your pocket anyway).


----------



## doublea71

mikeyfresh said:


> Unless the intended purpose is great sound quality. If the computer has lousy low quality power coming from it's USB ports (many do), you don't have a choice but to try to improve it.
> 
> Only a real "burden" in a mobile sense, even there it's manageable but not from your pocket (the GO1000 gets too hot for your pocket anyway).


 

 I'm pretty sure there are other manufacturers of usb dac/amps that sound great and have somehow managed to avoid the necessity of a cumbersome power supply. If I thought I would have to go to such lengths with the GO, I wouldn't ever consider buying it. Of course, there are some who don't care about the added expense, and I congratulate them for not caring.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## germay0653

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Yes! I'm using my GO1000 with my Galaxy Note 3 and Note 10. 2014 ed. tablet all on Android 4.4.2.
> 
> Now with the current version of UAPP, you could now play even in DSD (w/ dff files only).
> 
> ...


 

 Like Michael says, it's dependent on the device.  Currently, I cannot get my GO 720 to work with a Galaxy S4 and UAPP, yet two of his devices work.


----------



## CEE TEE

$30 for the Anker was too hard to pass up.  Thanks!


----------



## miceblue

doublea71 said:


> ^ Sort of defeats the purpose of a little usb dac/amp like the Geek Out....



Yeah I know, right?

I mean, I bought this so I can use it on-the-go. There should be absolutely no reason why I would need an external power supply or something of the sort. That's just ridiculous. No other USB DAC I've tried has any problems with noise.


----------



## greenkiwi

earfonia said:


> I observed, the volume buttons operate the digital volume, not the analog attenuator.
> 
> Any idea what is the consideration for the digital volume and not the analog volume?
> 
> While the windows volume fader operates the analog attenuator.


 
 There is no analog attenuator.  It's all digital, inside the ESS DAC.


----------



## Gilly87

Ok, I'm sold. As soon as they announce a fix to the volume problem, I'm going in on the 720. Thanks for the feedback and reviews guys 
  
 Has anyone tried the HD700 out of any GO model?


----------



## MikeyFresh

miceblue said:


> Yeah I know, right?
> 
> I mean, I bought this so I can use it on-the-go. There should be absolutely no reason why I would need an external power supply or something of the sort. That's just ridiculous. No other USB DAC I've tried has any problems with noise.


 

 That's because the noise problem isn't that of the DAC, its a problem with the quality of the computer's USB output.
  
 No one said anyone "needs" a separate add-on power supply, just that using one will improve sound quality.
  
 if you have nothing else USB plugged in but the DAC, and/or you happen to have a computer with a noise free USB port implementation, then you are good, but that's more rare than many people think.
  
 When you've never tried an external 5 volt power supply replacing dirty computer USB power, nor compared with and without using several different DACs, then your opinion on it is worth very close to zero.


----------



## miceblue

mikeyfresh said:


> That's because the noise problem isn't that of the DAC, its a problem with the quality of the computer's USB output.
> 
> No one said anyone "needs" a separate add-on power supply, just that using one will improve sound quality.
> 
> ...



Yeah and I was saying the noise problem has only been heard with the GO and no other DAC I've tried. Why does the GO have so much more noise from the USB port than other DACs I've tried then if it's not the DAC itself?


----------



## MikeyFresh

miceblue said:


> Yeah and I was saying the noise problem has only been heard with the GO and no other DAC I've tried. Why does the GO have so much more noise from the USB port than other DACs I've tried then if it's not the DAC itself?


 

 I don't know, but I've named the other DACs I've used for comparison, even left a couple out (that being the ADL Stride, and the MF V-DAC II). Those weren't quick cursory trials either, I own and use all of them in various work, hi-fi room, living room, and bedroom systems.
  
 All of them benefit from noise reduction techniques such as software music players that hijack RAM and thread priority, as well as hardware implementations such as the Vaunix Lab Brick, iFi iUSBPower, and iPurifier.
  
 Use of SSDs vs. HDDs also helps, as does disconnecting all other USB devices excepting the DAC itself.
  
 The above tactics and products raise the sound quality several notches on all 5 DACs I've mentioned, so not a USB noise rejection shortcoming or phenomenon specific to the GO1000.
  
 It should also be noted that most "noise" issues found on the USB ports of computers are EMI related, meaning noise that's ultrasonic or inaudible in and of itself, but whose negative effect on audio circuits (the DAC) is most certainly audible (it causes jitter and yes jitter is in many cases quite audible).
  
 The occasional pop, click, or burst of static-like noise the OP mentioned? That is going to be event driven, i.e. a start-up of a moving parts HDD's platter, a system sound or notification, a click of a Bluetooth mouse in very close proximity to the DAC, etc...


----------



## earfonia

suopermanni said:


> Hey Head-Fi,
> 
> I have just got my Silver Geek 1000 and I have a question. I'm getting occasional electrical noise/static from my Geek Out. I'm guessing this is noisy USB causing this. I would like to know how best to solve this. Using basic mobo USB port at back of comp.


 
  
 From the same USB port, my GO 450 has higher noise floor than DACport and Dragonfly.
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/840#post_10724329
  
 It seems that their power supply noise filtering is not very good.


----------



## MikeyFresh

earfonia said:


> From the same USB port, my GO 450 has higher noise floor than DACport and Dragonfly.
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/840#post_10724329
> 
> It seems that their power supply noise filtering is not very good.


 

 Correct me if I'm wrong, didn't LH Labs indicate your measured noise was atypical and they asked you to send it back for replacement as likely it was defective?
  
 If so you should reserve comment on their power supply noise filtering being no good, or qualify it by telling the OP your unit was sent back at the request of the manufacturer as defective.
  
 LH Labs has posted noise measurements on this unit during the design stage on their forum, the numbers were quite impressive. In the U.S. there are laws governing false claims and misleading advertising or product specs. No company the likes of LH Labs would bother with making false claims, the risk to their reputation and or the liability involved is far greater than the potential reward, and they are just too darned smart/established and ethical in the first place. I'm sure their published specs are accurate.
  
 The above would suggest you got a defective unit, I wish both you and any other member who are having noise troubles a swift and speedy resolution of that problem.


----------



## earfonia

mikeyfresh said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, didn't LH Labs indicate your measured noise was atypical and they asked you to send it back for replacement as likely it was defective?
> 
> If so you should reserve comment on their power supply noise filtering being no good, or qualify it by telling the OP your unit was sent back at the request of the manufacturer as defective.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Right, but frankly, I don't hear anything wrong with my GO 450 instead of the slightly high noise floor.  Could it be considered defective?
 I'm waiting for second unit from my used referral link, they agree to send me another one for me to compare with my current one.
 But until know there is no message from them as when they are going to send the second unit... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Anyway, you're right, I will wait for my second unit to be compared, and should reserve my comment about my unit.
 I was just triggered by seeing the post that there is other GO that also has audible noise. And wondering if that is common or considered defective.
 Anyone here has digital scope and can help to measure their GO noise floor?


----------



## jcwc

mikeyfresh said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, didn't LH Labs indicate your measured noise was atypical and they asked you to send it back for replacement as likely it was defective?
> 
> If so you should reserve comment on their power supply noise filtering being no good, or qualify it by telling the OP your unit was sent back at the request of the manufacturer as defective.
> 
> ...


 
  
 I guess we need to identify the different types of noise that might infect a DAC.
  
 In earfonia's case I think it is internal self-noise, i.e. you can hear a hiss or background noise with your earphones on (when no music is playing). It might very well be that his unit is defective. On my GO 450 I get a perfectly black background with my earbuds.
  
 The second noise is clicks/pops/etc caused by a noisy USB bus or computer. This I do face - when my HDDs have more intensive operations there is some low-level high pitched noises that comes through my external active speakers. In this regard my speakers are more sensitive perhaps (they are on the line output of the GO) because I don't hear it on my earbuds. I'd like to know how other USB DACs fare in this regard, like the Dragonfly, Microstreamer, etc.


----------



## earfonia

jcwc said:


> I guess we need to identify the different types of noise that might infect a DAC.
> 
> In earfonia's case I think it is internal self-noise, i.e. you can hear a hiss or background noise with your earphones on (when no music is playing). It might very well be that his unit is defective. On my GO 450 I get a perfectly black background with my earbuds.
> 
> The second noise is clicks/pops/etc caused by a noisy USB bus or computer. This I do face - when my HDDs have more intensive operations there is some low-level high pitched noises that comes through my external active speakers. In this regard my speakers are more sensitive perhaps (they are on the line output of the GO) because I don't hear it on my earbuds. I'd like to know how other USB DACs fare in this regard, like the Dragonfly, Microstreamer, etc.


 
  
 I had that issue before. Even when I scroll my mouse, I can hear the scrolling noise from my DAC output.
 It happened with my Yulong DA8, and I was pretty annoyed with the noise.
 Finally I found the problem.  I connected both my Dr. DAC2 DX and Yulong DA8 at the same time. And when I disconnect the Dr. DAC2 DX, the USB noise on Yulong headphone output gone.  When I connect the DAC2 DX back, the noise back as well.
 To solve it, I use this USB isolator from Hifimediy for my Dr. DAC2 DX:
 http://hifimediy.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=122
  
 It works with Dr. DAC2 DX, but not with Yulong DA8.  Now I connect all the DACs without any USB noise problem.


----------



## MikeyFresh

jcwc said:


> I guess we need to identify the different types of noise that might infect a DAC.
> 
> In earfonia's case I think it is internal self-noise, i.e. you can hear a hiss or background noise with your earphones on (when no music is playing). It might very well be that his unit is defective. On my GO 450 I get a perfectly black background with my earbuds.
> 
> The second noise is clicks/pops/etc caused by a noisy USB bus or computer. This I do face - when my HDDs have more intensive operations there is some low-level high pitched noises that comes through my external active speakers. In this regard my speakers are more sensitive perhaps (they are on the line output of the GO) because I don't hear it on my earbuds. I'd like to know how other USB DACs fare in this regard, like the Dragonfly, Microstreamer, etc.


 

 Absolutely, and I mentioned what I termed "event driven noises" in an earlier post, I think the OP that I and a few others were responding to described it as that, an occasional pop/click static type of sound.
  
 That to me seems likely to be caused by the spooling up of a HDD or some other system event such as system sounds/notifications, or just a bunch of applications running at the same time putting some amount of stress on the CPU.
  
 It can also be caused by an overall power draw (cumulative from all connected devices) reaching the point at which the motherboard can't provide the proper current to everything connected, as DACs do sometimes exhibit a static like noise when underpowered.
  
 That can be minimized on the Mac platform by using external HDDs powered by either FireWire or better yet Thunderbolt.


----------



## MikeyFresh

earfonia said:


> Right, but frankly, I don't hear anything wrong with my GO 450 instead of the slightly high noise floor.  Could it be considered defective?
> I'm waiting for second unit from my used referral link, they agree to send me another one for me to compare with my current one.
> But until know there is no message from them as when they are going to send the second unit...
> 
> ...


 

 Understood, good luck on getting that 2nd unit for comparison.
  
 However that post mentioned an occasional pop or static like noise, no? That was why I thought the answers provided him in posts #916 and 917 were good ones, he isn't facing an overall high noise floor.


----------



## Suopermanni

Hey Head-Fi, 
  
 I appears that my comment caused a bit of a kerfuffle. Sorry about that. I've swapped ports and the noise seems to have gone though looking back, I don't think it was the Geek Out's Noise Floor or USB noise I was hearing. I think it was digital noise that usually happens when I connect DACs up to my PCs for the first time. Happened to my Meier StageDAC. BOth Geek Out and Stage DAC are fine now.


----------



## earfonia

mikeyfresh said:


> However that post mentioned an occasional pop or static like noise, no? That was why I thought the answers provided him in posts #916 and 917 were good ones, he isn't facing an overall high noise floor.




No USB peripheral noise on my GO 450, or my other DACs.

It's internal noise floor, not USB peripheral noise.

If after waiting for like 7-8 months, and what I get is a defective unit... oh man... this could be my last business with Light Harmonic.
(after getting my Pulses)


----------



## earfonia

suopermanni said:


> Hey Head-Fi,
> 
> I appears that my comment caused a bit of a kerfuffle. Sorry about that. I've swapped ports and the noise seems to have gone though looking back, I don't think it was the Geek Out's Noise Floor or USB noise I was hearing. I think it was digital noise that usually happens when I connect DACs up to my PCs for the first time. Happened to my Meier StageDAC. BOth Geek Out and Stage DAC are fine now.




Do you have any sensitive IEM?
Could you please try plugging in and out of the headphone jack on your GO? Do you hear any slight noise when the IEM plugging in, and absent of noise when plugging out?

Tx!


----------



## Suopermanni

Sorry earfonia, only got full-size. IEMs don't tend to fit my ear canals.


----------



## MikeyFresh

earfonia said:


> No USB peripheral noise on my GO 450, or my other DACs.
> 
> It's internal noise floor, not USB peripheral noise.
> 
> ...


 

 Right, I was referring to Suopermanni's post, that description to me sounded like a system or peripheral noise.
  
 He's just clarified it, it was the initial charging of the capacitors on first connect he was hearing.


----------



## miceblue

earfonia said:


> Right, but frankly, I don't hear anything wrong with my GO 450 instead of the slightly high noise floor.  Could it be considered defective?
> I'm waiting for second unit from my used referral link, they agree to send me another one for me to compare with my current one.
> But until know there is no message from them as when they are going to send the second unit...
> 
> ...



I had the noise issue with all 3 of my computers (5 USB ports total). LH measured my unit since I sent it back thinking it was defective and it was fine according to their testing standards.






I requested if LH could deliver my unit back to me before July 26, and they said they could. I still have yet to receive any word on it....so much for that. :/


----------



## earfonia

suopermanni said:


> Sorry earfonia, only got full-size. IEMs don't tend to fit my ear canals.




Noted thanks!

I don't hear any noise with headphones either on my GO 450, only when using sensitive IEM like my DUNUs, and other sensitive IEMs.


----------



## earfonia

miceblue said:


> I had the noise issue with all 3 of my computers (5 USB ports total). LH measured my unit since I sent it back thinking it was defective and it was fine according to their testing standards.
> 
> I requested if LH could deliver my unit back to me before July 26, and they said they could. I still have yet to receive any word on it....so much for that. :/




That's what I'm afraid of. I don't want to waste shipping cost to US.
I wish we can compare our units...


----------



## zenpunk

I enjoy my GO450, very engaging and dynamic sound, but like many have reported it also has an unusually high noise floor which is evident when using very sensitive iems and my TH900. The Microstreamer and Dragonfly didn't suffer from such issue so the design of the Geek Out is obviously compromised.
  
 The noise floor is still low enough as not to spoil enjoyment when music is playing but those lab measurements by LH Labs are just meaningless and a marketing ploy that have no correlation to real life usage of those units.


----------



## earfonia

zenpunk said:


> I enjoy my GO450, very engaging and dynamic sound, but like many have reported it also has an unusually high noise floor which is evident when using very sensitive iems and my TH900. The Microstreamer and Dragonfly didn't suffer from such issue so the design of the Geek Out is obviously compromised.
> 
> The noise floor is still low enough as not to spoil enjoyment when music is playing but those lab measurements by LH Labs are just meaningless and a marketing ploy that have no correlation to real life usage of those units.


 
  
 I really question what USB port they used for measurement. Most probably the super clean 5V from their LPS.
 We need lab measurement using real PCs, notebooks, and Macs.


----------



## germay0653

earfonia said:


> I really question what USB port they used for measurement. Most probably the super clean 5V from their LPS.
> We need lab measurement using real PCs, notebooks, and Macs.


 

 I've used my go 720 with both my desktop and laptop, on all USB ports with and without either an LPS or battery, with no noise problems whatsoever using TH900's and Etymotic ER-4P's.


----------



## earfonia

germay0653 said:


> I've used my go 720 with both my desktop and laptop, on all USB ports with and without either an LPS or battery, with no noise problems whatsoever using TH900's and Etymotic ER-4P's.


 
  
 Thanks!
 Could there be some inconsistency in production?


----------



## MikeyFresh

earfonia said:


> That's what I'm afraid of. I don't want to waste shipping cost to US.
> I wish we can compare our units...


 

 Or maybe they can substitute the GO100 model for you guys, as it is generally better suited to sensitive IEMs electrically speaking?


----------



## earfonia

mikeyfresh said:


> Or maybe they can substitute the GO100 model for you guys, as it is generally better suited to sensitive IEMs electrically speaking?




Then we only have a few steps to adjust the volume.


----------



## germay0653

earfonia said:


> Then we only have a few steps to adjust the volume.


 

 Don't confuse GO100 with GO1000.  GO100 is specific for sensitive IEM's.  You should have more than enough volume steps with the GO100.  It's got 100 mW of power as compared to 1000 mW (1W) of power.


----------



## zilch0md

cee tee said:


> $30 for the Anker was too hard to pass up.  Thanks!


 
  
 How will you supply power from the Anker to the GO, without also supplying power from the PC's USB port (from which you only need data)?
  
 In other words, what cable tricks are you going to use?  
  





  
 Mike


----------



## earfonia

germay0653 said:


> Don't confuse GO100 with GO1000.  GO100 is specific for sensitive IEM's.  You should have more than enough volume steps with the GO100.  It's got 100 mW of power as compared to 1000 mW (1W) of power.




Oh I see... my bad... thanks for the correction! I thought GO 1000.
Yes, if they have GO 100 it should the better choice for IEM.

I like my GO 450 for my headphones, especially for my Hifiman HE5-LE.
So, i will just use my GO 450 for my headphones.


----------



## miceblue

I received this from a help ticket today:


> Hello [miceblue],
> 
> Thank you for your time, Yes your unit is getting shipped back to you along with your 1000 unit. You will receive a email from Endicia with tracking information for your units. I have also included the test sheets for both the units and personally QCed them. Again thank you for your time and support.
> 
> Best regards Manny,




So we'll see how the two units compare. When I get them, I'll go ahead and scan and post them here.


----------



## CEE TEE

zilch0md said:


> How will you supply power from the Anker to the GO, without also supplying power from the PC's USB port (from which you only need data)?
> 
> In other words, what cable tricks are you going to use?
> 
> ...


 
 Hi Mike, sorry- I just want to use it to keep devices charged.  It was $30 and has good capacity.  (I'm using my Geek Outs with my MacBook Air primarily.)


----------



## zilch0md

cee tee said:


> Hi Mike, sorry- I just want to use it to keep devices charged.  It was $30 and has good capacity.  (I'm using my Geek Outs with my MacBook Air primarily.)




Oh, OK!


----------



## mink70

If anyone wants a mint GO 720 in Kickstarter Green, I'm selling mine. Shoot me a PM if interested.


----------



## jcwc

earfonia said:


> That's what I'm afraid of. I don't want to waste shipping cost to US.
> I wish we can compare our units...


 
  
 I thought there are a few GO owners in Singapore? Maybe can borrow one to do a comparison.


----------



## earfonia

jcwc said:


> I thought there are a few GO owners in Singapore? Maybe can borrow one to do a comparison.


 
  
 I wish I know any of them


----------



## georgelai57

Using Audirvana+ for my GO1000 on my iMac for months - no significant issues. GO450 on same direct USB port (not hub) and with other items removed from other USB ports and this noise floor for IEMs is totally unacceptable. In fact if you move the A+ volume dial up and down quickly you can be a DJ making those scratchy record sounds. I've raised a support ticket.


----------



## earfonia

georgelai57 said:


> Using Audirvana+ for my GO1000 on my iMac for months - no significant issues. GO450 on same direct USB port (not hub) and with other items removed from other USB ports and this noise floor for IEMs is totally unacceptable. In fact if you move the A+ volume dial up and down quickly you can be a DJ making those scratchy record sounds. I've raised a support ticket.


 
  
 Light Harmonic should have a recall program for all GO 450 with high noise floor.  
 This is unacceptable, especially comparing to their advertised noise specs.


----------



## miceblue

miceblue said:


> I received this from a help ticket today:
> 
> 
> > Hello [miceblue],
> ...



Well, I'm not quite sure what they did with my GO 450 unit, but I received it today and it has a different serial number than the previous one. The background hiss is still there, but it's not nearly as loud as it used to be; I can just barely barely barely hear it with the M-100 (if you remember my previous words, I could definitely hear it with the M-100). Other than that, it sounds just as good as before.

^ if you can't tell in the photo, the red coloured GO has a rough, matte finish and it's more of a Van cherry red compared to to the more brushed, smooth, lustrous ocean blue one above

As promised, here are the included measurements. I can't really decipher them though. One sheet is mislabeled as "Geek Out 1000," but you can tell which one is which from the Vrms values.
GO 450



GO 1000




The two units sound identical to me, which is to be expected. Despite Gavin recommending not using sensitive headphones and earphones with the GO 1000, you still get some nice head room with the volume knob. I don't think the GO 1000 will cause problems with such headphones unless you're using Windows and the unexpected maximum volume thing activates. With the latest version of Audirvana Plus on OS X, the volume control is giving me no issues.



* and for the record, like many others, I did not receive a tracking number anywhere in my inbox (including spam), so it unexpectedly showed up at my house about 30 minutes ago


----------



## miceblue

I just did some of the math, and it looks like their numbers are actually wrong from the product name.

GO 450: 2.300 Vrms (versus 2.65 Vrms from the Kickstarter specs) = 330.6 mW at 16 Ω
GO 1000: 3.700 Vrms (versus 4 Vrms from the Kickstarter specs) = 855.6 mW at 16 Ω


From Tyll's measurements of the LCD-2 Rev 2 on Innerfidelity, it requires 0.87 mW of power for it to reach 90 dB SPL, or 280.61 mW to reach 115 dB SPL at 58 Ω.


Assuming the GO behaves linearly, Vrms^2 / 58 should give the approximate maximum power outputted for the LCD-2 Rev 2.

Neither GO model will get the LCD-2 Rev 2 to 115 dB SPL, but if you listen to music at a reasonable volume level (~80 dB SPL average with DR15 music for maximum peak values of 95 dB SPL), either should be fine (GO 450 gets to 108 dB SPL, GO 1000 to 114 dB SPL).


----------



## AxelCloris

miceblue said:


> Spoiler: Reduced for space
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Wow, I have to say that I'm not too keen on that red finish. If that's what I can expect for mine when it gets here then it's definitely not one I'll be keeping around. The matte finish just doesn't suit to GO at all in my eyes. It has a cheaply printed 3D look to it. It doesn't look like the nice high quality 3D prints and it doesn't look like the sharp and engaging red metallic finish that I've seen in other photos. For the GOs, glossy>matte.


----------



## miceblue

axelcloris said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> >
> ...


Yeah, when I picked it up I was like "ehhhhh?? O.o"

I even sniffed it because I thought it was matte red spray paint or something when scratching my head about why it was so different from the blue one. The red unit has a serial number in the 1200 range so maybe early units look like this? Maybe?


----------



## earfonia

miceblue said:


> I just did some of the math, and it looks like their numbers are actually wrong from the product name.
> 
> GO 450: 2.300 Vrms (versus 2.65 Vrms from the Kickstarter specs) = 330.6 mW at 16 Ω
> GO 1000: 3.700 Vrms (versus 4 Vrms from the Kickstarter specs) = 855.6 mW at 16 Ω


 
  
 Thanks for sharing the test result!
 The number are kind too rounded for a real test result.  You know, those 00 behind the decimal.
 Anyway, my GO 450 has max RMS of around 2.63 V without any load.  I will check again later with 33 ohms load.
  

  
  
 Assuming that GO 450 can maintain 2.63 Vrms with 16 ohms load, the result would be: 432 mW
 So I think still 'ok' if they name it GO 450.


----------



## miceblue

earfonia said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > I just did some of the math, and it looks like their numbers are actually wrong from the product name.
> ...



Yeah I was just thinking that maybe the test results are at specific Vrms values rather than what their maximum can be.
http://lhlabs.com/force/geekout/898-geek-out-vs-the-others-3rd-installment.html


----------



## AxelCloris

miceblue said:


> Yeah, when I picked it up I was like "ehhhhh?? O.o"
> 
> I even sniffed it because I thought it was matte red spray paint or something when scratching my head about why it was so different from the blue one. The red unit has a serial number in the 1200 range so maybe early units look like this? Maybe?


 
  
 Could be something exclusive to a small batch of them. I hope that's the case. If it were me I'd (wait for it) open a ticket and find out what the deal is. I want me Geek to look as good as it sounds. Thankfully my black 720 has a reflective finish.


----------



## miceblue

Hold up, false alarm. I just did a test with a 100 Hz sine wave at 0.01 amplitude and it looks like the GO has a non-linear volume control when using the operating system volume controls. It actually gets louder than the O2 at maximum volume, but the headroom for the volume control is so small that I thought I needed to go to maximum volume earlier. The volume control is basically exponential; the first 3/4 of the volume is pretty quiet and then the last 1/4 escalates quickly.


----------



## earfonia

miceblue said:


> The volume control is basically exponential; the first 3/4 of the volume is pretty quiet and then the last 1/4 escalates quickly.




Strange, by right volume is logarithmic right?


----------



## miceblue

earfonia said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > The volume control is basically exponential; the first 3/4 of the volume is pretty quiet and then the last 1/4 escalates quickly.
> ...



I'm not sure actually. I just found it strange that I had to nearly max out the volume on the GO 1000, but the O2 was fine at around 9:30 in that particular case.


----------



## Currawong

Most often now attenuators used in amps are logarithmic. Otherwise you get the last 25% seeming to do not much at all.


----------



## surja

I want to use the GO with my Beyerdynamic T90 (250 ohms) - will the 720 suffice, or should I get the 1000? If 720 is enough, will getting the 1000 have any performance effect on T90 if I choose to get it for future proofing?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I'll go for GO1000. Not that it has more power. But it seems it's less plague of problems from the rest. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## zenpunk

It is sad that the GO1000 seems to exhibit less noise issue that the GO450, even for IEMs, but sadly the other problem with the volume make it too dangerous to use with IEMs. The couple of time I blasted my ears with the 450 when using my Shure846 was quite unpleasant but I  just can't imagine how bad it would have been if I had the 1000.


----------



## Sinocelt

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> I'll go for GO1000. Not that it has more power. But it seems it's less plague of problems from the rest.


 
  
 ... except that it makes the "ear blasting" bug worse.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Yep you got it! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 If..you keep touching those buttons (they say the firmware is coming...let's see).
  
 Have mine 3 months already (GO1000). And just have a "hands off policy"....and thinking its not there.
 And it worked for me.


----------



## zenpunk

Aren't buttons meant to be pushed?


----------



## AxelCloris

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Yep you got it!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 I use the same policy as Michael. Use the computer volume, don't touch the GO unless I'm turning on/off 3D. Haven't run into a blowout yet.


----------



## Sinocelt

zenpunk said:


> Aren't buttons meant to be pushed?


 
  
 The GO 1000 certainly is pushing mine.


----------



## rlawli

axelcloris said:


> I use the same policy as Michael. Use the computer volume, don't touch the GO unless I'm turning on/off 3D. Haven't run into a blowout yet.


 
  
 1+


----------



## jcwc

zenpunk said:


> Aren't buttons meant to be pushed?


 
  
 Indeed, so LH needs to get this fixed soon.
  
 But in the meantime, not touching the buttons is a workaround the bug.


----------



## miceblue

I met up with a fellow Head-Fier in the area and I got to try out the LCD-2 (pre Fazor) with the GO 1000 in a Starbucks environment (moderately noisy, similar to any other official Head-Fi meet).

I used Windows XP instead of my usual OS X because I'm letting that Head-Fier borrow the GO 1000 to listen to the HE-560 later this week and I wanted to go through the setup process. The media player I used was Foobar2000 with the DSD add-ons installed. With maximum volume in Foobar, I had to turn the Light Harmonic volume control panel to -17 to -8 dB for the various high resolution tracks we listened to, which isn't too much headroom with the volume. As stated by *Currawong* though, I guess this is normal for the volume to adjust exponentially near the end? I guess I'm still not used to this kind of control and it seems weird to me to have to turn up the volume to near-maximum to get to appropriate volume levels.

Anywho, we both agreed that the GO has somewhat of an edge in the treble region while providing some nice warmth in the midrange kind of like a stereotypical tube-like sound and the Head-Fier commented that the GO might be a better match-up with the LCD-2 than the Schiit Mjolnir since it brings a more euphoric sound signature to the music.


----------



## earfonia

miceblue said:


> Anywho, we both agreed that the GO has somewhat of an edge in the treble region while providing some nice warmth in the midrange kind of like a stereotypical tube-like sound and the Head-Fier commented that the GO might be a better match-up with the LCD-2 than the Schiit Mjolnir since it brings a more euphoric sound signature to the music.


 
  
 I do hear the slight treble emphasize around the 4-7 kHz on my GO 450, but I don't hear the midrange warmth. Especially comparing with DACport, DACport is surely closer to tube-like warmth than the GO 450 sterile sound.


----------



## miceblue

earfonia said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > Anywho, we both agreed that the GO has somewhat of an edge in the treble region while providing some nice warmth in the midrange kind of like a stereotypical tube-like sound and the Head-Fier commented that the GO might be a better match-up with the LCD-2 than the Schiit Mjolnir since it brings a more euphoric sound signature to the music.
> ...



Compared to my ODAC/O2, there is a _slight_ warmth to the midrange. It makes the GO a bit more musical in that regards as I've been listening to the GO more than the ODAC/O2.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p_dUEvGTMY[/video]

^ The piano with the GO for example sounds like it has more weight compared to the ODAC/O2
Free download: http://www.2l.no/hires/index.html


Regarding the Head-Fier whom I met earlier today, I got a PM saying that from first impressions, the GO 1000 sounds _really_ impressive with the HD700. I'm not too surprised since the HD800 is what Larry Ho uses.


----------



## earfonia

miceblue said:


> Compared to my ODAC/O2, there is a _slight_ warmth to the midrange. It makes the GO a bit more musical in that regards as I've been listening to the GO more than the ODAC/O2.
> 
> ^ The piano with the GO for example sounds like it has more weight compared to the ODAC/O2
> Free download: http://www.2l.no/hires/index.html
> ...


 
  
 Thanks to 2L, I've downloaded all of the 40 GB high res samples from their website  Always my reference for testing.
  
 Slight more midrange weight is possible, especially when I compare GO 450 to Dragonfly. But warmth, still a bit far from DACport warmth.


----------



## Bigpants

Just wondering if anybody else is seeing these issues:
  
 I'm running a GeekOut 450 connected to a MacBook Pro Retina, listening to B&W P7s connected to there 0.47Ohm output. The source material is primarily FLAC24 sourced from the Society of Sound site played through Vox.
  
 I'm not listening at ear-bleeding volumes (my primary listening time is while I work) and I'm hearing significant noise in the right ear, especially in quiet sections of tracks and between tracks.
  
 Also, when I activate the 3D Awesomifier all I get is fuzz in both ears and no change to the soundstage.
  
 Is there something I'm not doing right or haven't done from a config point of view?


----------



## earfonia

bigpants said:


> Just wondering if anybody else is seeing these issues:
> 
> I'm running a GeekOut 450 connected to a MacBook Pro Retina, listening to B&W P7s connected to there 0.47Ohm output. The source material is primarily FLAC24 sourced from the Society of Sound site played through Vox.
> 
> ...




If you have time to flip a few pages back, many of us having noise issue. Until now LH said those GO with noise problem most probably defective. Meaning, they have a rather poor quality control... sending those defective GO to their customers  

And yes, 3D noisifier does add some noise on my GO 450.


----------



## Bigpants

earfonia said:


> If you have time to flip a few pages back, many of us having noise issue. Until now LH said those GO with noise problem most probably defective. Meaning, they have a rather poor quality control... sending those defective GO to their customers
> 
> And yes, 3D noisifier does add some noise on my GO 450.


 
  
 Bugger.
  
 I'm in Australia and have purchased this from a local retailer - should I be contacting LH to confirm I have a faulty unit then look at returning it? Has anyone else gone through this process yet?
  
 Also, regarding the 3D Awesomifier: apart from adding noise are you hearing any increased soundstage or any other benefit from it? All I'm getting is the noise.


----------



## miceblue

bigpants said:


> earfonia said:
> 
> 
> > If you have time to flip a few pages back, many of us having noise issue. Until now LH said those GO with noise problem most probably defective. Meaning, they have a rather poor quality control... sending those defective GO to their customers
> ...



I've gone through the process since my original GO 450 had background hiss that was audible with sensitive headphones (I thought this was a defect, but apparently it's normal...). Since yours is only happening with 1 channel, then it likely is a faulty unit.

When I did the return process, I opened a new ticket asking for instructions since I actually won that GO 450 unit rather than purchasing it (thus having no proof of purchase). They basically just said to ship it to Light Harmonic and they'll start an RMA. So you would have to pay for shipping in that case, which probably is going to be a bit of a price since you're from Australia. :/

I just shipped mine wrapped in bubble wrap and placed it in a USPS envelope since the GO is small enough to fit, and it was the cheapest option available ($12, with insurance and signature confirmation).


----------



## doublea71

How can a company that builds $30,000 DACs manage to screw up something like this? They need to read the Schiit thread and some of the lessons they learned over the years. Oh how I wish there was a company that had that had the philosophy/business model of Schiit and applied it to DAPs....I think Fiio comes closest out of all the companies currently making players. LH needs to get their act together - agreed?


----------



## gikigill

I have been testing my GO1K with all sorts of earphones/IEM and headphones and no noise yet.


----------



## earfonia

doublea71 said:


> How can a company that builds $30,000 DACs manage to screw up something like this? They need to read the Schiit thread and some of the lessons they learned over the years. Oh how I wish there was a company that had that had the philosophy/business model of Schiit and applied it to DAPs....I think Fiio comes closest out of all the companies currently making players. LH needs to get their act together - agreed?




Agree.
If they suspect defect on the noisy units, at least they should bear all the shipping cost for RMA.


----------



## Bigpants

Well I've just raised a ticket on the LH support site - let's see how they handle this.
  
 I'm a little more forgiving than some on stuff going wrong - **** happens in my business too so I can appreciate that sometimes there are screw-ups, especially with new products. Its how a company handles itself in these situations that can set them apart.
  
 If they get me fixed up with a working GO with a minimum of fuss then I'll be happy.


----------



## Bigpants

Well look at that - HeadFi cleaned up my colourful language automatically. I guess I should have said "schiit happens".


----------



## greenkiwi

gikigill said:


> I have been testing my GO1K with all sorts of earphones/IEM and headphones and no noise yet.


 
 Which IEMs have you tried?  How efficient are they?


----------



## Gilly87

That's good to know. I might just go for the 1000 after all.
  
 Waiting till these problems with volume are taken care of though...
  
 Quote:


gikigill said:


> I have been testing my GO1K with all sorts of earphones/IEM and headphones and no noise yet.


----------



## Bigpants

I've already had a response from Mario: he needs my details so he can issue a RMA. I then need to ship the unit back to LH and give them the tracking ID. Once they see its on the way they'll ship me a new one immediately and reimburse the shipping costs via PayPal. He says the new units no longer have the noise problem.

So far so good. Bugger that my unit was faulty but good that they taking care of the issue without giving me the runaround.


----------



## gikigill

I have tried the JH16, XBA-H3, Klipsch Custom 3 and a bunch of others with the JH16 very susceptible to any hiss or distortion seeing as they badly expose any smartphone used as a source.


----------



## miceblue

bigpants said:


> He says the new units no longer have the noise problem.



Eh.........so what happens to customers who don't have this "new version"? Can they get a replacement unit? How does one know if theirs is "new" or not? o.0






gikigill said:


> I have tried the JH16, XBA-H3, Klipsch Custom 3 and a bunch of others with the JH16 very susceptible to any hiss or distortion seeing as they badly expose any smartphone used as a source.



Interesting. I haven't heard any background hiss with any of my headphones with the iPhone 4S. I can't say the same for the Geek Out though...


----------



## gikigill

The Geek Out has heaps more power too and dependent on the USB port so the IPhone isn't a fair comparison. 

IEM tend to be more sensitive too than headphones.


----------



## Bigpants

miceblue said:


> Eh.........so what happens to customers who don't have this "new version"? Can they get a replacement unit? How does one know if theirs is "new" or not? o.0


 
  
 I guess if you hearing noise that's not from the source you raise a ticket with them and give them your unit's serial number like I did.
  
 It's easy enough to identify: I connect the GO and plug in my headphones, with no source material playing at all. Wait a few seconds for the initial hissing and carry on to complete, then on mine there is a persistent noise in the right ear. Left ear is silent, and from what I've read from people with the GO 1000 the noise floor should be nil.


----------



## miceblue

gikigill said:


> The Geek Out has heaps more power too and dependent on the USB port so the IPhone isn't a fair comparison.
> 
> IEM tend to be more sensitive too than headphones.



You're right about the battery part. I don't think power matters though, gain does. The GO 1000, as reported from multiple people, has a lower noise floor than the GO 450, yet it has more power. And as I've stated before, the GO is the only DAC I've heard through the USB interface that has the background hiss.

I'm using the Shure SE215 right now, which is more of a consumer earphone, and I can clearly hear the hiss with the GO 450. I personally don't mind too much since I won't be using these earphones with the GO, but for many others who do plan to use earphones, I think it's silly that they have to "upgrade" to the GO 100 to eliminate this background hiss that I thought shouldn't be there in the first place.


I can plug in the SE215 into the Objective DAC or the JDS Labs C5D (without a battery) with a cheap-o Monoprice USB cable and I get no background noise what-so-ever; music sounds free of such grain. Evidently the background hiss isn't a result of "dirty USB power" from what I can conclude.

Keep in mind that I already sent back my GO 450 unit to get it inspected, and it passed Light Harmonic's inspection tests.


----------



## zerodeefex

dude, how many people have the GO450 and the GO1000? I haven't seen other posters other than myself who have compared the two side by side. 
  
 The noise floor goes 100 (beta) < 450 < 1000. I've tried multiple units and this is the same for all of them. This is with a variety of IEMs, including both my UERMs and my JH-16s.


----------



## miceblue

zerodeefex said:


> dude, how many people have the GO450 and the GO1000? I haven't seen other posters other than myself who have compared the two side by side.
> 
> The noise floor goes 100 (beta) < 450 < 1000. I've tried multiple units and this is the same for all of them. This is with a variety of IEMs, including both my UERMs and my JH-16s.





For me 450 > 1000 in terms of the noise floor. It so happens to be that more people with the 450 are discussing the background noise issue more so than 1000 owners.


----------



## zenpunk

My guess is that most of the people who opted for the 1000 are probably using it with full size and hard to drive headphone, while those who chose the 450 hoped it would be ideal for iems and easy to drive portable headphones.


----------



## siess

My GO1000 has no noise with my JH16s.


----------



## bobusn

Enjoying our GO1000 with HD600 & LCD-X.
  
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/bobusn/sets/72157645907839439


----------



## pearljam50000

Do you find it better than the Microstreamer?


----------



## MikeyFresh

bobusn said:


> Enjoying our GO1000 with HD600 & LCD-X.
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/bobusn/sets/72157645907839439


 
 Very nice photos.
  
 Interesting you are serial #10, but it would appear you just received this unit.
  
 I was Kickstarter backer #174 (or so), but received serial #296 way back in April (silver color GO1000).
  
 I still feel I was shipped 122 spots later than I should have been, but I quickly forgot all about it once I heard the superb sound quality of this inexpensive unit.
  
 That said, I did ask the question of LH Labs at that time, and I received a reply that said they were looking into it. But that was the end of the conversation, they never said why I got a serial # 122 spots higher than my backer #.
  
 Water under the bridge at this point, but still a curiosity, especially seeing your unit is serial #10 in early August.


----------



## bobusn

mikeyfresh said:


> Very nice photos.
> 
> Interesting you are serial #10, but it would appear you just received this unit.


 
  
 Thanks, @MikeyFresh. I cannot tell a lie...I have engaged in some serial number deception!


----------



## MikeyFresh

bobusn said:


> Thanks, @MikeyFresh. I cannot tell a lie...I have engaged in some serial number deception!


 
 Oh, I see!
  
 So NOT actually serial #10.
  
 Thank you for the clarification, I guess I'll let my old curiosity about the serial #s vs shipment date die again!
  
 Enjoy your GO1000, I like the look of what some folks are calling the "new" shade of red vs. the older slightly brighter red that Kickstarter backers received. It looks very nice in your photos despite some saying they don't care for it. I rather like the slightly darker deeper hue.


----------



## bhazard

I use my GO1000 with IEMS all the time. It is overkill, but still works very well when your gain levels are set correctly.


----------



## bobusn

pearljam50000 said:


> Do you find it better than the Microstreamer?


 

 Both are terrific. The GeekOut does PCM above the 96kHz sampling rate, and DSD64-128...so yes, better. The microStreamer will stay with the iPad, where it remains fabulous! These DACs are both tiny. Amazing. Love how the Class A GO gets toasty.


----------



## Poimandres

Any word on when they will release the volume fix?


----------



## miceblue

poimandres said:


> Any word on when they will release the volume fix?



I'm curious too.

My friend is borrowing the GO 1000 and pretty much hates the volume control in Windows due to the ear rape phenomenon.


----------



## Poimandres

Well I refuse to even use it before it has been fixed. I also wouldn't sell it before they release a fix. This will likely be my first and last geek/LH product.


----------



## georgelai57

I'm just enjoying mine using an Apple TV remote.


----------



## jazzflav

Light Harmonic Geek 1000 just keeps getting better and better I love it


----------



## pearljam50000

delete


----------



## CharlesJohnson

OK, so I have the geek out 1000 dac and it is a really huge leap forward in terms of sound quality for me (In my ignorance I have always been running Audez'e Lcd-3 straight off the pc/phone jack) and it sounded much better. However, I would like to ask if this setup enables the Geek out to be functional with a HTC one (m7).
The setup will be connecting a battery pack via a usb to barrel adapter to a powered usb hub, then connecting the phone to the hub via an usb otg cable, and finally plugging the geek out into one of the usb ports on the hub. 
Also, will I need to use the usb audio player pro software? I was reading the other thread on usb dacs and Android, and the UAPP as well as UARP was mentioned as a software side usb audio enabler. Will default player work with the dac out of the box or do I need that app? Thanks for your time .


----------



## Mannytorres

charlesjohnson said:


> OK, so I have the geek out 1000 dac and it is a really huge leap forward in terms of sound quality for me (In my ignorance I have always been running Audez'e Lcd-3 straight off the pc/phone jack) and it sounded much better. However, I would like to ask if this setup enables the Geek out to be functional with a HTC one (m7).
> The setup will be connecting a battery pack via a usb to barrel adapter to a powered usb hub, then connecting the phone to the hub via an usb otg cable, and finally plugging the geek out into one of the usb ports on the hub.
> Also, will I need to use the usb audio player pro software? I was reading the other thread on usb dacs and Android, and the UAPP as well as UARP was mentioned as a software side usb audio enabler. Will default player work with the dac out of the box or do I need that app? Thanks for your time
> 
> ...


 

 This was successfully done by our backers on kickstarter using a powered USB hub and UAPP which gave us the idea for the Geek Stream campaign (you should check it out) 
  
 Manny/Light Harmonic


----------



## Gilly87

WOW I had no idea about this! Totally grabbing one for my Android...hope it's nice and slim like it looks!
  
 Quote:


mannytorres said:


> This was successfully done by our backers on kickstarter using a powered USB hub and UAPP which gave us the idea for the Geek Stream campaign (you should check it out)
> 
> Manny/Light Harmonic


----------



## pearljam50000

How many hours does it need to be burned in?
 And what is the best configuration in Jriver? Thanks.


----------



## AxelCloris

pearljam50000 said:


> How many hours does it need to be burned in?
> And what is the best configuration in Jriver? Thanks.


 
  
 Just plug it in and start enjoying. Mine sounded great straight out of the box. If there's any burn in required then you'll only experience the sound getting better. If not, you'll have spent the time enjoying the music you love.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

charlesjohnson said:


> OK, so I have the geek out 1000 dac and it is a really huge leap forward in terms of sound quality for me (In my ignorance I have always been running Audez'e Lcd-3 straight off the pc/phone jack) and it sounded much better. However, I would like to ask if this setup enables the Geek out to be functional with a HTC one (m7).
> The setup will be connecting a battery pack via a usb to barrel adapter to a powered usb hub, then connecting the phone to the hub via an usb otg cable, and finally plugging the geek out into one of the usb ports on the hub.
> Also, will I need to use the usb audio player pro software? I was reading the other thread on usb dacs and Android, and the UAPP as well as UARP was mentioned as a software side usb audio enabler. Will default player work with the dac out of the box or do I need that app? Thanks for your time
> 
> ...


 
  
 Have seen this setup but with IPAD.
  

  
 And Iphone
  

  
  
 I have both Galaxy Note 3 and Note 10.1 Ed. 2014 and my GO1000 is working, strait from their usb ports.
 See Link: http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/900#post_10750462
  
 I have those cheap Y cables to plug-in on my battery pack. But it still sucks up my devices's batteries.  It has a different topology than the one above which I am still looking.
  
 One option that I haven't tried are the ones Elijah Audio markets. A Micro OTG w/ Battery Lead.  A Y-cable of which the other is Data only (no power) and the other is Power only.
 Link: https://www.facebook.com/ElijahAudio?ref=stream


----------



## talk2me

mannytorres said:


> This was successfully done by our backers on kickstarter using a powered USB hub and UAPP which gave us the idea for the Geek Stream campaign (you should check it out)
> 
> Manny/Light Harmonic


 

 Manny, my GO 1000 sounds great using Spotify, but I can't get it to work using my iTunes with Audirvana. Please advise.


----------



## pearljam50000

Has anyone compared the Geek's amp section to the schiiit Vali amp? is it worth buying an extra amp over the internal one?


----------



## mandrake50

What do you want to drive with it?
  
 The hardest phones that I have to drive are the HD 650. I can max everything with those and it does not get too loud to listen to, but it is clean. I can pump it up by adding pre-amp gain in Foobar, to loud enough that it bothers me. Still no clipping or compression.
 All of my other phones (HE 400, HP50, HD598, X1, etc) get loud enough to hurt you, and it is still clean.
  
 Getting something like the Vali kind of defeats the purpose that I got my GO 1000 for. That is portability to use with my laptop and not have to drag lots of gear and cables with me when I travel.
  
 I am getting a set of HE 400i soon. I will be interested to see ho the GO 1000 drives the planars.


----------



## pearljam50000

HD800
And mine is GO 720 , so it's not as powerful as yours.


----------



## Gilly87

Anyone tried the T90 and GO 1000?


----------



## mandrake50

pearljam50000 said:


> HD800
> And mine is GO 720 , so it's not as powerful as yours.


 
 Are you unhappy with the performance now?
  
 This is a personal bias, but I have never liked the results of running out of an amp to drive another amp. I think a true line level out is a better solution. For me, looking at something for desktop use, I consider a good standalone DAC feeding something like the Vali (or your choice of amp) might be a better solution than the GO driving the amp.
  
 I have to say, because of my bias, and even though I have several standalone Headphone amps, I have not even tried driving any of them with my GO. I only have used it directly driving the various headphones/IEMs  that I use. I does what I need from it in that role and it does it without having to drag another box, power supply and cables around.


----------



## Mannytorres

Hey Gilly,
  
 Yeah we are getting pretty close here, working on firmware and an enclosure, this should be pretty fun.


----------



## pearljam50000

mandrake50 said:


> Are you unhappy with the performance now?
> 
> This is a personal bias, but I have never liked the results of running out of an amp to drive another amp. I think a true line level out is a better solution. For me, looking at something for desktop use, I consider a good standalone DAC feeding something like the Vali (or your choice of amp) might be a better solution than the GO driving the amp.
> 
> I have to say, because of my bias, and even though I have several standalone Headphone amps, I have not even tried driving any of them with my GO. I only have used it directly driving the various headphones/IEMs  that I use. I does what I need from it in that role and it does it without having to drag another box, power supply and cables around.




I also don't like double amping, but i thought the 0.47 output was true line level out, guess i was wrong.


----------



## mandrake50

I guess the fact that you can drive a set of headphones from either output and have full volume control leads me to think that both are amplified outputs rather than a true  (usually fixed and at reference level) line outs. I think I recall them billing this as a device that would drive two sets of headphones at once.
  
 Don't they recommend using the 47 Ohm output to drive an external amp ? So it will do it .. but  with "double amping" going on.


----------



## zerodeefex

I use the GO450 with a Vali and it's a pretty solid combo.
  
 In fact, my current main desk rig at work is a Wyrd > GO450 > Krell Klone > Paradox Slants/AD2000/HD800s while waiting for a fully kitted Pulse to take over DAC duties.


----------



## pearljam50000

You dont mind about the double amping?


----------



## miceblue

pearljam50000 said:


> You dont mind about the double amping?



Who said it's double amping?


----------



## mandrake50

miceblue said:


> Who said it's double amping?


 
 I mostly just read around the forums, but I have seen the term "double amping" used when people are referring to driving the input of an amplifier from the output of another amplifier. In this case, the amplified output of the GO driving the input of the Vali.
  
 If that is the correct definition, then what you mentioned doing is "double amping".


----------



## miceblue

mandrake50 said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > Who said it's double amping?
> ...



That definition is true, but who said the Geek Out's 47-ohm output is being amplified? If it's not, then it's not being double amped in that case.


----------



## mandrake50

It is amplified.  If yours is labeled like the one I have you will see two icons on the back side right above the output jacks. Both are headphone icons, one thicker or more bold than the other. This indicates they are for use with low or higher impedance headphones. The 47 ohm output is  recommended for line out duties as well. I am sure that this is because it is a better match for the typically high impedance inputs of other amplifiers. This is typically 10K Ohms.
  
 Plug a set of headphones into the 47 Ohm output, fire up some music, play with the volume control. Let me know what happens. Does it drive the phones to a similar level as the 0.47 Ohm jack? Do a quick A-B comparison. In my case it drives the HE-400 just as hard out of either, though it does sound different due to damping factor differences (especially with higher Z phones like the HD 650).
  
 If that is not an amplified output, then I am confused about what that term means.  It sounds like the definition of an amplified output to me.
  
 Who said this you asked.
  
 All of the people, including LH Labs, that say that the 47 Ohm jack can be used for higher Z headphones are essentially saying that it is an amplified output. You can find many reviews and even descriptions directly from LH Labs that make this statement.
  
 Here is one:
  
http://www.audiostream.com/content/lh-labs-geek-out-1000-dacheadphone-amplifier
  
_There's on-board volume controls and little LEDs that indicate what sample rate you're currently playing and two 3.5mm analog outputs, 47 Ohm for the line out and higher impedance headphones and 0.47 Ohms for lower impedance headphones._
  
_Or this from the GO Kickstarter page:_
  
_Problem - You want to share your music with a friend.  So, you hand him or her one earbud, and you listen to the other.  That sucks!_

_It's a shareulator.  GEEK has two headphone jacks!_
  
 Of course, an amplified headphone output can act as a psuedo line output to drive another amp, as long as it can swing the required voltage into the HiZ load, but it is still an amplified output. This means using it for this purpose is "double amping"!
  
 If you are interested take a look at this article:
http://www.audiostream.com/content/lh-labs-geek-out-1000-dacheadphone-amplifier
  
 While the GO 47 Ohm output can be used to drive an amp, it is not anything even close to a true line output.


----------



## miceblue

mandrake50 said:


> Spoiler: explanation
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I figured the volume attenuation was on the DAC level. You can still produce sound from a DAC and still have it attenuated digitally. You can try this with most devices that have a line out connection. Often times the line out is loud though because they're often set to produce the maximum output voltage, or maximum volume if you're using a headphone out port. I believe the Objective DAC does this. The ODAC delivers 2 VRMS to the next item in the audio chain if the digital volume is maximised.

Line out connections usually have a high output impedance because it requires minimal current transfer to the amplifier, or whatever thing is next in the audio chain. It just so happens that high-impedance headphones are also voltage-driven as opposed to current-driven like lower impedance earphones (hence why headphones like the HD800 are often fine with being driven with amps of high output impedance). I think the voltage dependence has a more audible effect than the damping factor. One typically shouldn't drive lower impedance headphones from a high impedance source because the circuit might be shorted due to a high current being required.


----------



## BA_D_R

I got DragonFly 1.2 should I buy Geek Out 450, is it really better than DragonFly 1.2
 My headphone is Ultrasone Signature DJ (32 ohm)


----------



## maestr01

Just got my Geek Out 1000. I am pairing it with my AKG Q701s and I just love the SQ on this little device. It makes my AKG Q701 sound like a whole new headphone. The bass is much improved and yet sounds punchy. I can't wait for the pulse and wave to arrive now.
  
 The sound definitely improves when it has a little bit of time to warm up. I leave it on for about 30 minutes and the device is sufficiently ready for better and warmer sound.


----------



## Mannytorres

Hey I love my GO 1000, throw some DSD on it and about a a half hour to settle in, It will sound awesome,
  
  
 Manny/ Light Harmonic


----------



## Gilly87

any word on whether issues with Windows volume have been addressed by LH?


----------



## Gilly87

Ok, good to know. I'm ready to buy as soon as you guys can give me a 100% guarantee that I'm not gonna blow my IEMs 
  
 Quote:


mannytorres said:


> Hey Gilly,
> 
> Yeah we are getting pretty close here, working on firmware and an enclosure, this should be pretty fun.


----------



## Gilly87

Still curious if anyone has tried this badboy with the T90s...


----------



## longbowbbs

Geek Out 1000 with Sennheiser HD650's and Toxic Cable Silver Poison's via MBP and Amarra 3.02


----------



## grunter72

Hi, I used Geekout 1000 with Beyer T90 and found it a very good combo.


----------



## Gilly87




----------



## FlySweep

I've found a way to safely toggle the Awesomefier if you're using the GO's analog volume control (if you're using the digital volume control, it's not an issue).  For those unaware, here's some background of the problem:
  
 When a user disconnects/connects the GO to their computer, the digital volume control (the slider on the left side of the LH Control Panel.. which is linked to the physical buttons on the GO) sets itself to MAX volume *regardless of the level *before the disconnect.  Many people use the analog volume control (the sliders on the right side of the LH Control Panel.. which are typically linked to the PC's volume hotkeys) instead because the GO *remembers *the analog volume settings between disconnects/reconnects.  If a user is using the analog volume control.. and presses the physical buttons on the GO, the GO instantly lets the digital volume control take precedence.  Since the digital volume control is set to MAX by default, users run the risk of blowing their ears/cans.
  
 Now why would someone dare do this?  Because in order to toggle the Awesomefier/crossfeed, one must _simultaneously_ press the physical buttons on the GO.  If the timing of this (physical) operation isn't really well-synchronized, the GO assumes the user is letting the digital volume control (as previously noted, is set to MAX volume by default!) take precedence over the analog volume control.
  
 To get around this issue, first ensure that the GO's DIGITAL volume control is at max volume (this is very important!).  This is actually the issue the (forthcoming) FW fix from LH is supposed to address, so we're taking advantage of the 'bug,' atm.  To safely toggle the crossfeed when using the analog volume control, depress+hold the UP volume button on the GO FIRST.. _then_ depress+hold the DOWN volume button to toggle.  This action doesn't even have to be done in a highly synchronized/simultaneous manner:  I've held the UP button.. waited three or four second.. then pressed/held the DOWN button.. and was able to successfully toggle the crossfeed.  So there you go.. happy listening!


----------



## Gilly87

Yikes...I'm glad there's a workaround but I'd hate to have to do that every time I listen just to avoid hearing damage o.O Think I'll wait for an official fix, personally.


----------



## Barra

Thought I would mention that miceblue was able to loan me his Geek Out 1000 for a little over a week so I was able to get a good audition at home. The key word here is wow! It held up nicely to the HUGO that I was auditioning simultaneously - providing 90 to 95 percent of its performance at a fraction of the price, but of course with a lot less versatility. Even though I have no need of a USB DAC/AMP, I am considering getting one just to have the different signature that it brings to my CIEM. Anyways, here is my review if anyone is interested:
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/products/lhlabs-geek-out/reviews/11396


----------



## Gilly87

Wow, its that close to the Hugo? That's awesome to hear; I was really impressed with the Hugo > TH900 combo I heard at the recent LA mini meet.


----------



## miceblue

gilly87 said:


> Wow, its that close to the Hugo? That's awesome to hear; I was really impressed with the Hugo > TH900 combo I heard at the recent LA mini meet.



Yeah I'd say it's a good 90% of the sound quality.
OH, I posted my impressions on the other Geek Out thread but not this one.

Copy-pasta.

[rule]
When I write my review of the Geek Out, whenever I get the time to do so and I want to wait until they update the firmware for the Windows drivers, I probably won't go into detail about the Hugo since it's a demo unit with the Noble Audio lineup. Ironically, I personally wouldn't recommend either for sensitive earphones or Noble's CIEMs since both the Hugo and the Geek Out have background hiss that kind of really annoys me when I'm listening to music.

From what I hear with them and the touring HE-560 unit though, the GO does an admirable job in the sound quality department compared to the Hugo. The Hugo on the other hand has pretty much every standard unbalanced input/output connection one would need, and some nice additions with the myriad of LEDs in it (there's probably around two dozen in there for different volume/sampling/crossfeed indicators...).

Regarding the sound quality though, the Hugo still has the edge for sure overall. The imaging and instrument separation are far better with the Hugo, having a very black background between each instrument (if you can call it that). The Hugo also has a smoother and flatter frequency response in my opinion compared to the GO. The GO seems to have a slight upper-midrange/lower-treble harshness and a slight bump in the bass area somewhere. From what I personally have at hand, the ODAC/O2 was my reference DAC/amp combo. The GO has some characteristics that I like more than it, but they have slightly different sounds from one another and I still like the ODAC/O2 with some headphone pairings. The Hugo, to me, has some characteristics of both the ODAC/O2 (bass response, instrument separation, fairly clear frequency response) and GO in terms of sound, but it's more similar to the GO (smoother sound, more rounded soundstage, better imaging, more natural-sounding).

For sensitive earphones and CIEMs, I personally recommend the C5D for everyday music since it has zero background hiss. It doesn't play anything above 24/96 though, so that's a limitation. It is ready to use with Andoid and iOS 7 devices though, out of the box.



I think with the Hugo's price, you're getting a lot of input/output options, iOS/Android connectivity, and battery power that the Geek Out simply doesn't have.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

One the drawbacks of Geek Out in terms of SQ, is that its USB powered (and with all the noise in it).

Throw a linear power supply, battery pack or USB isolator/conditioner on the equation, and you'll have some serious competition. All at the tenth of the price. 

Enjoyed you're review.

- - - - - - - - -

On the other note:

If you have wowed on its SQ. How much more with the Geek Wave... ^_^

Now with their experiences with the Geek Out and the upcoming Pulse, the better!


----------



## zenpunk

The noise has nothing to do with USB power, it is self noise from the amplifier. An USB isolator and 5V battery pack had no effect whatsoever  on my GO450.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Yes of course the well documented DC offset / 3D Awesomefier noise. Mostly plagued on the GO450.

But I am not referring to that. I have a GO1000 just like the reviewer. 

And have noticed SQ benefits of having cleaner power.

Sorry if you have those drawbacks on you GO450. 

But (as also noted by the reviewer esp. on noise), my/our experiences was/were different.


----------



## jcwc

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> And have noticed SQ benefits of having cleaner power.


 
  
 Say what are you using to get the cleaner power?


----------



## germay0653

jcwc said:


> Say what are you using to get the cleaner power?


 

 I'm using a TeraDak U9 Linear Power Supply and a Poweradd MP-32000 battery for powering my GO 720 with a few different cable and PC combinations.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I am using my GO on the road.
  
 Using a Delock 65306 Y cable.  Covered the 5V pin on the connector that attaches to host (Laptop/Tablet).
 Power cable attached to a battery pack/charger with 4x18650.


----------



## cocolinho

New owner of GO 1000 for couple of hours now. Very good combo with HD700 so far!


----------



## zilch0md

germay0653 said:


> I'm using a TeraDak U9 Linear Power Supply and a Poweradd MP-32000 battery for powering my GO 720 with a few different cable and PC combinations.


 




  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/375#post_10489140
  
 (Disclaimer:  I'm still waiting for the volume control FW fix, before ordering a GO.)
  
 Mike


----------



## cocolinho

I can't find info about Power output for different impedances.
 Where can i find this info? Tx


----------



## Barra

cocolinho said:


> New owner of GO 1000 for couple of hours now. Very good combo with HD700 so far!




Incredible with the hd700, isn't it. After borrowing miceblue's go1000 for a week, I am having troubles listening to the dx90 or x5 pairing any more.


----------



## Miyaichi

The Geek Out 720 is on sale and drops even more if anybody is willing to order on a specific website


----------



## Barra

miyaichi said:


> The Geek Out 720 is on sale and drops even more if anybody is willing to order on a specific website


 
 Thanks for the tip, I think I just may have to commit.


----------



## MikeyFresh

I've slimmed down my original battery powered iPad arrangement with y-split cable to be at least manageable.
The little cube shaped 2 port USB hub directly after the CCK is still necessary to trick the iPad into not serving up the "insufficient power" message, the USB controller inside the hub shakes hands with the CCK after first connecting the battery to the power leg.
The whole set-up, while not pocket-able, is portable and fits nicely in the front pocket of my laptop bag. More importantly, the sound is rather outstanding.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Here's mine and covered the 5V pin on the connector to disable power that will connect to the host device.
 I used a Delock 6503 it seems yours an Apricorn Y cable.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## Baycode

I have entered to the drop on the M*****p site for the GeekOut720 and now waiting for it... Offer price was very good on it so couldn't resist anymore...
  
 May I ask you which battery pack is that and can you share a link please @m-i-c-k-e-y  ?  I think I am going to the same route as yours...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Actually any battery pack with a USB 5V 1.0A port will do.
  
 Mine I got from Ebay. Its a Battery Pack / Charger / Flashlight combo.
  
 Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8000MA-Universal-2A-Mobile-Power-Supply-USB-Battery-Charger-4x18650-Box-Black-/251241361508?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7f26f064


----------



## CEE TEE

I've been happy with this Anker 13000mAh for $29:
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ5KHJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
 Thanks to whomever posted that above, can't remember who...
  
 Which Y-cables do not require taping over the 5V pin?  (I know they are back in one of these threads but I'm so tired.  Would appreciate the help.)


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I know one from Elijah Audio but its costly (think its $125)
  
 Link: https://www.facebook.com/ElijahAudio?ref=stream
  
 And taping those 5V pin do have significant sonic benefits.


----------



## Baycode

Thanks for the help @m-i-c-k-e-y  and good alternative for @CEE TEE  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 I hope more people will sign-up for the m****p discount...  Now the wait...


----------



## Miyaichi

There aren't even 20 and we haven't reached the first discounted price. Really weird since the most for-sale prices on head-fi are even higher.


----------



## pearljam50000

isnt it against head-fi's rules to mention that site?


----------



## doctorjazz

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> I know one from Elijah Audio but its costly (think its $125)
> 
> Link: https://www.facebook.com/ElijahAudio?ref=stream
> 
> And taping those 5V pin do have significant sonic benefits.


\

If I'm looking at the right cable at their site, it is selling for $195...maybe it went up. Worth it?


----------



## CEE TEE

Thanks @m-i-c-k-e-y.  I think I will try to tape the pins first...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Yes especially when using USB ports on your laptop / computer.


----------



## MikeyFresh

Late Sunday afternoon activities in New York have been cut short by a thundershower, so I concluded my testing of the iPad2 with the GO1000 and an external battery, in the spirit of exploration.
  
 This one borrows a cable from my main system, the iFi Gemini dual head USB cable where the source/data leg has no connection at all to the +5vdc power pin, only the separate power leg delivers the 5 volts, so you don't need to tape anything.
  
 I was reminded by @m-i-c-k-e-y's photo description that I also have a USB battery with a built-in LED flashlight, so I used that too for a little lighting effect. This is the best sound I've had from the iPad as yet, seems a little more vibrant and dynamic than the RL Herus.
  

  
 The thunderstorm also means cocktail hour commences.


----------



## Barra

mikeyfresh said:


> Late Sunday afternoon activities in New York have been cut short by a thundershower, so I concluded my testing of the iPad2 with the GO1000 and an external battery, in the spirit of exploration.
> 
> This one borrows a cable from my main system, the iFi Gemini dual head USB cable where the source/data leg has no connection at all to the +5vdc power pin, only the separate power leg delivers the 5 volts, so you don't need to tape anything.
> 
> ...


 
 Very nice setup Mikey.
  
 However, I have to say that I am very disappointed at how hard it is to hook up the GO1000 to an Apple product - THANKS APPLE!!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 While this is an extremely nice setup, the connectors cost more than the GO1000 itself and the setup requires way too many parts making it very fragile and therefore, not a portable option. At almost $700 total between GO and parts, I might as well purchase a nicer sounding dedicated desktop unit for other areas of the house.
  
 Are there no USB Y cables in the $30 range that separate USB power and data that would make this work with the camera kit -which I have- and an external USB battery and not require any other adapters? If so, please please please, I would love to see links and any setup advice.
  
 I am hoping to make this into a mobile listening station that I can move around that house with me without fear of things coming loose. Does anyone have any ideas on packaging this into a mobile option?


----------



## zilch0md

^ Not without using tape over the 5V power pin of one USB A connector - OR - going to an affordable Y-cable that's probably longer than what you're seeking.  
  
 What's your pleasure?  Taping the pin or using a cable that has to be coiled to make it "mobile"?


----------



## Gilly87

Has anyone heard anything from LH with regards to progress on the Windows bug and/or a timelime fot releasing a fix? I really want a GO but I don't feel safe buying one yet; if this is a software thing that can be patched with drivers, and they will definitely have a fix in, say, a month or so, I will go ahead and buy, but if they are releasing a whole new unit or don't have a timeline for the fix, I'm gonna send my uS in for repairs...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

They say they have elimated the bug (beta testing). 

There were some glitches on Win 8.1.

They are expanding to do a semi-beta to have more testers try it...


----------



## miceblue

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> They say they have elimated the bug (beta testing).
> 
> There were some glitches on Win 8.1.
> 
> They are expanding to do a semi-beta to have more testers try it...



I'm installing Windows 8.1 via BootCamp today, in about 10 minutes actually, so maybe I can try the beta firmware too.


----------



## MikeyFresh

barra said:


> Very nice setup Mikey.
> 
> However, I have to say that I am very disappointed at how hard it is to hook up the GO1000 to an Apple product - THANKS APPLE!!!!!
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thank you, it was a fun way to listen to a hi-rez album to pass the time during an afternoon thunderstorm. The sound quality certainly stole the show, although only by a narrow margin over the gin & tonic.
  
 You can definately thank Apple for the seemingly unnecessary complexity, although in their defense they never promised anyone the iPad's battery would power a DAC. 
  
 Check out *post #1070 in this thread, *in that picture you see a decent quality *cable that cost about $14*, appropriate for this application and well made enough to suggest it will easily withstand the rigors of mobile around the house, even light traveling via a laptop bag. It also has a Type A female connector for the DAC end, so you lose the need for one adapter there. You do need to tape over the +5vdc pin on the data leg, as this cable was not purpose built for audio. But that seems to make less difference here than with a computer source, as the iPad is not actively powering this arrangement, the external battery is.
  
 As far as something coming loose, there is only one part that easily comes loose and it is the 30pin connector on the CCK where it attaches to the iPad. I only connect that piece when I've settled into position, although it can be safely arranged to stay put inside a laptop bag. I'm not sure how a newer iPad's Lightning CCK connector may stay put better than the 30pin CCK does (or not).
  
 There is no way around using the extra 2 port USB hub connected to the CCK. It is needed to trick the iPad into performing the initial handshake with the hub's USB controller chip and not the USB controller in the DAC, which reports itself as needing too much power. The good news is you can buy one for under $10, and you might already own one (both of the ones I own work but some others have stated theirs doesn't).
  
 While I absolutely agree the iFi Gemini cable is inappropriate for this application in a number of ways including price point, my math does not agree with yours in terms of the $700 you mentioned. That cable goes for $179 if I'm not mistaken, everything else including the battery is pretty cheap (except the iPad of course which I presume you already own). Assuming Kickstarter pricing for the GO unit, you are under $500 even with a Gemini (excluding the iPad of course).
  
 If you already own the GO and the iPad, there isn't a ton of additional expense, especially if you already own some of the other bits as well. If you are looking at these costs while already owning none of it, there would appear to be better options available.
  
 Or, another variation on this is to use a battery powered hub, but I have no direct experience with that and don't already own one like I did the various bits and pieces here.
  
 I actually use my GO1000 as a line level DAC in a bedroom system with speakers, this was just some playin' around over a gin & tonic, and Rickie Lee Jones' _It's Like This _DSD album download.


----------



## Barra

mikeyfresh said:


> barra said:
> 
> 
> > Very nice setup Mikey.
> ...


 
 Great info, thx.
  
 I actually don't have a GO1000 yet and was looking at them at $300 on amazon. Your cable on amazon was also showing for $250. I think I paid $40 for a delux camera kit so that puts me at $600 before the cable and the USB charger. Then I was going to invest in some sort of bag to keep everything secure for mobile use. I am still probably under $700, but you know what I mean. I am considering waiting until the Wave pops as it is more what I need if they retain the sound and the A class amp, but I tend to be impatient and want everything now. The reason for the price comparison is because I am considering a BH Crack tube amp instead which runs only $300 that I can feed with my X5. But a GO720 has popped up for cheap that I am considering which changes alll my numbers above. Decisions, decisions.
  
 I am heading to CANJAM in October and was hoping to hear the Wave. Anyone know if it will be there?


----------



## Gilly87

Awesome. Do you know if it's a hardware or firmware/downloadable fix?
  
 Quote:


m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> They say they have elimated the bug (beta testing).
> 
> There were some glitches on Win 8.1.
> 
> They are expanding to do a semi-beta to have more testers try it...


----------



## longbowbbs

My review is up for the Geek Out 1000
  
 http://headphone.guru/geeking-out-on-the-road/


----------



## cocolinho

Thank you for the review but actually you're saying almost nothing about the sound except :
  
"An edge has been removed particularly in the upper mid range and treble. There is also a more pronounced bass emphasis likely due to the stronger Geek out amp"
"The Geek Out does not offer the full bloom of sound I enjoy from the DAC2, however, it gets me close enough that being away from the Big Rig is not the Audiophile sacrifice it had been"


----------



## longbowbbs

cocolinho said:


> Thank you for the review but actually you're saying almost nothing about the sound except :
> 
> "An edge has been removed particularly in the upper mid range and treble. There is also a more pronounced bass emphasis likely due to the stronger Geek out amp"
> "The Geek Out does not offer the full bloom of sound I enjoy from the DAC2, however, it gets me close enough that being away from the Big Rig is not the Audiophile sacrifice it had been"


 
 I appreciate the feedback. What struck me was the solid performance for such a compact portable device. I am also enjoying the amazing ability of more and more components today for reasonable money.
  
 I found the GO to be a fairly neutral device as well. Not given to overly coloring the sound. That along with the lack of edge particularly in the shimmering high's really sold it for me. I can't lug the big rig with me while traveling. Nice to not have a lot of sacrifice while away from home.


----------



## mandrake50

longbowbbs said:


> I appreciate the feedback. What struck me was the solid performance for such a compact portable device. I am also enjoying the amazing ability of more and more components today for reasonable money.
> 
> I found the GO to be a fairly neutral device as well. Not given to overly coloring the sound. That along with the lack of edge particularly in the shimmering high's really sold it for me. I can't lug the big rig with me while traveling. Nice to not have a lot of sacrifice while away from home.


 

 What is real sad about 90% of all of the audio reviews that I read.. they have a great review then tempered by ... some "except".
 Usually comparing to something ..else. Then it is talked about how the original device is great, BUT lacking compared to a much more expensive "thing".
 People seem to only read the "lacking" compared to XXX .
 Not sure how you get around this...or how we train readers to be more analytical. 
 But if we could, it would be beneficial to all!
  
 The GO stands on it's own to me. I do not compare it to any desktop rig. I compare it to what I want it to do for me and how it sounds in that role.
 In that perspective, in that role,  it works quite nicely!


----------



## doublea71

Comparisons are often useful  imo and help people make choices between different pieces of gear, so there isn't any need for this silly 'training of the readers.' I like to think we're all (okay, mostly) responsible adults with some common sense, but that's just me I guess.


----------



## longbowbbs

mandrake50 said:


> The GO stands on it's own to me. I do not compare it to any desktop rig. I compare it to what I want it to do for me and how it sounds in that role.
> In that perspective, in that role,  it works quite nicely!


 
 I concur with your assessment. It is a fine piece of gear. My contention is that it punches above its weight and that is a great thing.


----------



## jcwc

@Gilly87
  
 Yes the fix is a downloadable firmware.


----------



## miceblue

Hm, I installed Windows 8.1 yesterday via Boot Camp on my MacBook and I haven't experienced the GO1000 going to maximum volume. Interesting.

* using the current public release 2.20 firmware; I haven't gotten an e-mail back regarding the beta...


----------



## LightBrightSZ

mattering said:


> Just got my GO720 in the mail today and wow, I am really impressed with this DAC/AMP combo. I have listened to a couple songs on both my DT770 Pro and my HE-400 and the sound that it produced was amazing. Also, I thought that the 3D Awesomifier would be a gimmick but it works really well. Just an overall solid product. The GO likes to run really hot though so anyone know if we should be using it for hours or is there a max amount of time we should have it running.


 
 I wanted to buy the HE 560 for GO 720 - would that be able to get the potential of HE560?? has anyone tried


----------



## cocolinho

don't know but it seems that HE560 love lot of power, a bit like HE-6, still I doubt they sound horrible out of GO720


----------



## Barra

lightbrightsz said:


> mattering said:
> 
> 
> > Just got my GO720 in the mail today and wow, I am really impressed with this DAC/AMP combo. I have listened to a couple songs on both my DT770 Pro and my HE-400 and the sound that it produced was amazing. Also, I thought that the 3D Awesomifier would be a gimmick but it works really well. Just an overall solid product. The GO likes to run really hot though so anyone know if we should be using it for hours or is there a max amount of time we should have it running.
> ...




He560 sounds great with the go1000, close to HUGO but not as refined or 3d. Just bought the 720 and have the he560 tour unit coming soon to see 700 vs 1000. Will also have balanced cables to pair with mjolnir.

Regardless, the he560 is very polite and sounds great with all sources and even low res files, but scales nicely. Very musical and balance signature.


----------



## kawaivpc1

Hello guys.
 Does this unit work with HTC Desire 816 + USB Audio Pro app?


----------



## kawaivpc1

A good news to you all!
 Larry Ho told me that a new firmware for Geek Out 1000 will come out in the next 10 days!


----------



## Gilly87

Locked and loaded...


----------



## pearljam50000

kawaivpc1 said:


> A good news to you all!
> Larry Ho told me that a new firmware for Geek Out 1000 will come out in the next 10 days!



Best news in this thread.


----------



## zilch0md

Joy!


----------



## miceblue

I posted it somewhere else, so I might as well post it here too. I'm using Windows 8.1.


miceblue said:


> @ Geek Out users
> I've been comparing the original firmware to the beta firmware for sound quality instead of volume control like I was earlier and I'm pleasantly surprised! Music seems to be more spacious to me and the instrument separation is better (so instruments are better-defined within the soundstage). It's like the difference between listening to music in a narrow corridor and listening to music in a large room (I always found the Geek Out to sound narrow-sounding, this effect is removed with the beta firmware). Also, a kind of harsh sound that I'm used to hearing with the original firmware is now removed, which is really great news!
> 
> I uninstalled the beta firmware and reinstalled it. When I did this, the volume keys on my keyboard worked just fine and they adjusted the Windows volume normally (which corresponds to adjusting the analog sliders in the LH Control Panel). However, once I touched the Geek Out's volume up button once, the volume suddenly spiked to maximum (no change occurred in the LH Control Panel). : (
> ...


----------



## pearljam50000

Can anyone upload the beta firmware to dropbox or something, so people could download it?


----------



## kawaivpc1

how would you guys compare sound of Geek Out 1000 to sound of AK120, AK240, Fiio X5, DX100, Calyx M??
 Please share your opinions!


----------



## miceblue

pearljam50000 said:


> Can anyone upload the beta firmware to dropbox or something, so people could download it?



Nope, it's a limited beta release and Larry specifically made a comment in the distributed e-mails to not release it to the public.


----------



## pearljam50000

Oh ok, let's just hope it will be released in 10 days.


----------



## kawaivpc1

Geek Out 1000 vs AK120 vs AK240 vs Calyx M vs Chord Hugo?
 Any ideas?


----------



## MikeyFresh

barra said:


> Great info, thx.
> 
> I actually don't have a GO1000 yet and was looking at them at $300 on amazon. Your cable on amazon was also showing for $250. I think I paid $40 for a delux camera kit so that puts me at $600 before the cable and the USB charger. Then I was going to invest in some sort of bag to keep everything secure for mobile use. I am still probably under $700, but you know what I mean. I am considering waiting until the Wave pops as it is more what I need if they retain the sound and the A class amp, but I tend to be impatient and want everything now. The reason for the price comparison is because I am considering a BH Crack tube amp instead which runs only $300 that I can feed with my X5. But a GO720 has popped up for cheap that I am considering which changes alll my numbers above. Decisions, decisions.
> 
> I am heading to CANJAM in October and was hoping to hear the Wave. Anyone know if it will be there?


 
  
 Ah ha, there's the math discrepancy. My Gemini cable is the .7m length, that one is $179.
  
 Regardless, you wouldn't use that cable in a portable set-up, too expensive and bulky with the integral RF blockers as well as kind of stiff/inflexible with a mind of it's own as far as how it wants to be "dressed". Add the need for an adapter at the DAC end to accommodate the GO1000's Type A male plug and it's getting unmanageable.
  
 The Apricorn y-split USB is much more appropriate, and definitely decent quality for all of 14 bucks, it exceeded my expectation.
  
 I also had the CCK already on hand (for a couple of years now), so I wouldn't count that cost if I were you as it wasn't directly attributable to accommodating the Geek Out. Same with the USB battery, I already use it for other things, not sure if you already have one though.
  
 But as you said maybe waiting for the Wave is the prudent choice, otherwise a GO720 at that special pricing along with the Apricorn USB cable and a battery, and then you're in business. Oh wait, the stupid bus powered hub to trick the iPad into completing the handshake, toss in another 8 bucks. Thanks Apple.


----------



## earfonia

kawaivpc1 said:


> A good news to you all!
> Larry Ho told me that a new firmware for Geek Out 1000 will come out in the next 10 days!




Is it only for GO 1000 or also for GO 450 and GO 720?


----------



## nicolo

earfonia said:


> Is it only for GO 1000 or also for GO 450 and GO 720?


 
  
  
 For all GO versions


----------



## pearljam50000

Will they release it? because you said the volume issue isn't solved


----------



## miceblue

pearljam50000 said:


> Will they release it? because you said the volume issue isn't solved



Windows 8.1 seems to have some audio driver issues, so they're planning to do something on the Windows 8 side of things. I think for Windows 7 it works fine with this new update.

In OS X what the Geek Out's volume buttons do is it sets a maximum volume limit. So if I set the volume on the Geek Out to maximum by holding the up volume button down for 15 seconds or so, the volume control in OS X will utilise all of what the Geek Out can output (not recommended since everything will be extremely loud, even for my 669 ohm AKG K240 M). If I set the volume on the Geek Out to very low, the volume in OS X at maximum will be only as loud as you set it with the Geek Out.


----------



## earfonia

nicolo said:


> For all GO versions




Cool! Thanks!


----------



## Barra

mikeyfresh said:


> barra said:
> 
> 
> > Great info, thx.
> ...


 
  
 So I ordered the:

GO720
Apricorn y-split USB
Anker® 2nd Gen Astro E4 13000mAh External USB Battery
Apple Camera Connection USB adapter
  
  
 What is this about needing a powered hub?  This is supposed to be a semi portable solution, isn't there supposed to be a tape trick with the pins to get the handshake? Am I forgetting anything else? Does anyone know where to find the instructions to do the tape trick?


----------



## MikeyFresh

barra said:


> So I ordered the:
> 
> GO720
> Apricorn y-split USB
> ...


 

 The tape trick doesn't have anything to do with the USB handshake, the tape trick will just ensure that no power comes from the data/source leg of the cable, all power comes from the battery when you tape over the +5vdc pin of the data leg. You don't have to tape over that pin, but if you do it will eliminate some amount of source noise (EMI/RFI).
  
 I didn't say "powered" hub, it's actually the opposite in terms of making this a portable set-up. The hub you need is not powered by AC, it is a bus powered hub that simply goes inline on the data leg, like the charcoal colored one in my photo connected to the CCK.
  
 The hub's USB controller chip will perform the handshake with the iPad and report itself as not needing power, unlike if you were to allow the DAC to directly connect to the CCK/iPad on the data leg, the DAC would report itself as needing 500mA which the iPad rejects as too much. This happens even when you are using an external battery, you still need to trick the iPad into performing the handshake with the hub and not the DAC.
  
*This is the hub *I used in the picture, I also have another one that works that isn't quite as small and tidy. Others have reported their hub does not work in this application, meaning it's controller chip is not getting the handshake to finish for whatever reason.
  
 Unfortunately, the hub is required for this to work.


----------



## Barra

mikeyfresh said:


> barra said:
> 
> 
> > So I ordered the:
> ...




Thx mikey, just ordered the hub. Now all I can do is wait for everything to arrive and cross my fingers in hoping that everything works. 

Any ideas on wrapping everything up into a solid mobile package that will keep it from falling apart on the go?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I use 3M low profile Dual-Lock (Clear) velcro tape: 

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Reclosable-Fastener-TB4570-Profile/dp/B004V3RALO/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1410206306&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=3M+Dual+Lock+Low+Profile

If you wan't a trully solid one use the standard.


----------



## Bigpants

bigpants said:


> I've already had a response from Mario: he needs my details so he can issue a RMA. I then need to ship the unit back to LH and give them the tracking ID. Once they see its on the way they'll ship me a new one immediately and reimburse the shipping costs via PayPal. He says the new units no longer have the noise problem.
> 
> So far so good. Bugger that my unit was faulty but good that they taking care of the issue without giving me the runaround.


 
  
 Well I finally received my new GO 450. No fault of LHLabs, apart from their choice of carrier - they used USPS and it took forever to get to me her in Australia.
  
 In any case... I have nil noise floor in both ears, and the 3D Awesomifier works properly.
  
 While it would have been nice to have had a working unit from the beginning, I give LHLabs points for standing by their product and replacing my unit without giving me the run-around.


----------



## doctorjazz

Hi...has anyone tried GO with a Slingbox? It likely needs external power, but may be easier to connect than iPad. Just wonderin'


----------



## zenpunk

bigpants said:


> Well I finally received my new GO 450. No fault of LHLabs, apart from their choice of carrier - they used USPS and it took forever to get to me her in Australia.
> 
> In any case... I have nil noise floor in both ears, and the 3D Awesomifier works properly.
> 
> While it would have been nice to have had a working unit from the beginning, I give LHLabs points for standing by their product and replacing my unit without giving me the run-around.


 
 Does that mean that all of us who are experiencing hiss and higher noise floor when using iems have faulty units?
 I am really confused as some people got replacement units that suffer the same issues.
 Does that mean LHLabs fixed the issues in their new production units. I have been hesitant sending mine back as I am in the UK.
 What iems are you using?


----------



## Bigpants

zenpunk said:


> Does that mean that all of us who are experiencing hiss and higher noise floor when using iems have faulty units?
> What iems are you using?


 
  
 My original GO 450 had a very high noise floor, especially in the right ear - and that was with B&W P7s, not IEMs.
  
 Another symptom was the 3D Awesomifier - it actually introduced more noise rather than awesomifying.
  
 From my reading of the forums there was an issue with the first run GO 450 units that wasn't being seen in the 1000's.


----------



## miceblue

Updates from Larry regarding the firmware/Windows drivers



> Today, I spent quite sometime with Manny on Windows platform again.
> 
> Good News: Our new version 2.23 driver works fine with Windows 8.1/Windows 7.
> Bad News: The buttons issue seems related to Windows driver and we need to let Theyscon to confirm that again.
> ...


----------



## jcwc

bigpants said:


> Well I finally received my new GO 450. No fault of LHLabs, apart from their choice of carrier - they used USPS and it took forever to get to me her in Australia.
> 
> In any case... I have nil noise floor in both ears, and the 3D Awesomifier works properly.
> 
> While it would have been nice to have had a working unit from the beginning, I give LHLabs points for standing by their product and replacing my unit without giving me the run-around.


 
  
 What was the serial number of your original unit? And that of your new one? Perhaps just the first 2 digits.
  
 Just trying to get an indication of when is the production run that had the noise floor issue.


----------



## doctorjazz

Not getting the Windows fix...does that mean you do all the volume adjustment on the PC?


----------



## kawaivpc1

I wonder if this volume bug will affect android smartpones too?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Volume bug doesn't affect Android...only on Windows.


----------



## doublea71

*Gosh... UI is the hardest part.*
*Larry*
  
 I can only imagine the trouble they're going to have with the UI of the Geek Wave - this is not exactly a statement that inspires confidence...


----------



## cat6man

anyone have a geek out working with squeezeplug, on either a RPI or OdroidU3?


----------



## peter123

Subbed!


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

Has anyone compared the geekout 1000 to the alo panam


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

There's Geek Out with Chord Hugo...^_^


----------



## HPDJ

Well, I've enjoyed my time with the GO 1000 but now it's time to sell it, as it was for use only during an extended trip away from my home rig.
  
 For any who are interested 
  
http://www.head-fi.org/t/734397/light-harmonic-geek-out-1000


----------



## llcook51

Has anyone tried the GO 1000 with any of the HiFiman cans? I have both the HE-500 (38 ohm) and the new HE-400i (35 ohm).
 Thanks for your comments


----------



## Audio Addict

It easily drives my HE-6; HE-500 and the the HE-560.


----------



## Anaximandros

I use the GO 1000 to drive my HE-500 with no problems.
 This little gadget has enough ooomph to drive them.


----------



## llcook51

Anyone compared the GO 1000 to the O2+ODAC?


----------



## llcook51

anaximandros said:


> I use the GO 1000 to drive my HE-500 with no problems.
> This little gadget has enough ooomph to drive them.


 
 Thanks a lot. You look at it and you say "How can something this size..." Good things in small packages.
 Have you compared it to any other DAC/Amps?


----------



## AxelCloris

llcook51 said:


> Anyone compared the GO 1000 to the O2+ODAC?


 
  
 Miceblue has, but I don't remember specifically where.


----------



## mandrake50

llcook51 said:


> Anyone compared the GO 1000 to the O2+ODAC?


 

 I have both, but I have had no reason to try to analytically compare them. They both sound very good for my purposes, with any headphone that I have connected to them. Both drive my hardest to please headphones quite well at the levels that I listen.
 This is from the sonic point of view.
  
 I got the GO because I wanted a quality DAC/AMP that is extremely portable and requires no cables other than that of the headphone.
 As I have separate 02 and ODAC units, and the O2 really requires an external power supply, it simply does not fit the bill.
 That does not mean that I don't still use that setup at my desk.  It does mean that when I travel I just take the GO 1000, my laptop and headphones and I am happy.
  
 I have used the 47 ohm output from the GO1000 to drive the 02 so that I could play higher bitrate files than what the ODAC can handle.
 This works well. So if you have a bunch of high bit music or DSD or DXD files, there is another consideration, the ODAC will not play them (unless you down convert first). The GO will.
  
 How do you want to use this setup?
  
 I think that most people would be happy with either. It probably comes down to the intended use.


----------



## miceblue

miceblue said:


> earfonia said:
> 
> 
> > miceblue said:
> ...





If you own one or the other, it's not really worth the money and time to get the other unless you have a specific use for it since they're pretty close in sound quality. I still keep the ODAC and O2 handy because I have them as separate units and they have their own purposes (ODAC is just a standalone DAC with RCA outputs, O2 is just a standalone amp that's battery powered and is handy to bring along to a friend's house). The Geek Out is a nice all-in-one package in the form of a fat thumb drive.


----------



## llcook51

axelcloris said:


> Miceblue has, but I don't remember specifically where.


 
 Thanks.


----------



## llcook51

mandrake50 said:


> I have both, but I have had no reason to try to analytically compare them. They both sound very good for my purposes, with any headphone that I have connected to them. Both drive my hardest to please headphones quite well at the levels that I listen.
> This is from the sonic point of view.
> 
> I got the GO because I wanted a quality DAC/AMP that is extremely portable and requires no cables other than that of the headphone.
> ...


 
 Thanks for reply. I probably will use them as you suggested. The GO will be great for my trips, of which i have been taking too many lately.
 The O2+ODAC will stay at the office. Good to hear that they both perform admirably.


----------



## llcook51

Thanks for the reply miceblue. Great comparison review.


----------



## pearljam50000

Is there any way to connect the Geek to an active studio monitors that only have XLR input?


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## Poimandres

I must say I am pleased with LH. I opened a ticket about two weeks ago about the noise on my 450 with my jh13fp's. I sent my 450 back to them last Friday and today I received my brand new and sealed go100 at no additional costs. Kudos to Manny and the LH team.


----------



## miceblue

poimandres said:


> I must say I am pleased with LH. I opened a ticket about two weeks ago about the noise on my 450 with my jh13fp's. I sent my 450 back to them last Friday and today I received my brand new and sealed go100 at no additional costs. Kudos to Manny and the LH team.



Wow seriously? I sent back my original GO 450 thinking it had noise problems and I had to pay for shipping. They offered me a GO 100 but I had to pay the difference and so I opted out. What gives...? :/


----------



## Poimandres

I dealt strictly with Manny. I covered the shipping there but they covered it back.


----------



## zenpunk

That' nice to know.
 I was kindly asked for $129 (including international shipping) to replace my useless 450 for a 100. 
Absolutely disgraceful!


----------



## Poimandres

I apologize I wanted to actually compliment them as I have been pretty hard on them lately. I certainly didn't mean to start the finger pointing.


----------



## Gilly87

That's not ok when people are getting it for free...what's up with this, LH?
  
 Quote:


zenpunk said:


> That' nice to know.
> I was kindly asked for $129 (including international shipping) to replace my useless 450 for a 100.
> Absolutely disgraceful!


----------



## mandrake50

Better to ask them directly...
 I would think.


----------



## jcwc

pearljam50000 said:


> Is there any way to connect the Geek to an active studio monitors that only have XLR input?


 
  
 Sure, just buy this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068OEO/
  
 That's what I use.


----------



## jcwc

zenpunk said:


> That' nice to know.
> I was kindly asked for $129 (including international shipping) to replace my useless 450 for a 100.
> Absolutely disgraceful!


 
  
 International customers always get hit hard by the shipping costs. Those within US normally pay much less (or nothing) shipping for returns/exchanges; this doesn't only apply to LH but many other online vendors also.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

New Driver!

http://lhlabs.com/downloads/LightHarmonic_DriverSetup_v2.23.zip

Not firmware so...
DON'T TOUCH VOLUME BUTTONS!

A bit better SQ, IMO.


----------



## frankrondaniel

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> New Driver!
> 
> http://lhlabs.com/downloads/LightHarmonic_DriverSetup_v2.23.zip
> 
> ...


 
  
 Already made the mistake of touching the volume buttons - ears are still ringing!


----------



## zilch0md

I haven't been paying attention to this thread...  Have they not fixed the volume control problem yet?


----------



## Poimandres

That's why it is better to utilize the line out to your favorite amp.


----------



## frankrondaniel

poimandres said:


> That's why it is better to utilize the line out to your favorite amp.


 
  
 That would be safest at this point but hurts the portability factor.  Hopefully they'll have volume issues fixed soon though.


----------



## doctorjazz

Stupid question...how do you use it as line out? thanks.


----------



## AxelCloris

doctorjazz said:


> Stupid question...how do you use it as line out? thanks.


 
  
 Connect the 47 ohm output to an amp or pre-amp and make sure to set the GO on max volume.


----------



## doctorjazz

Thanks, pretty much what I do with the DX90, thought there might be some dedicated way of doing it.


----------



## Poimandres

I am still not sure if it is a true line out though.


----------



## earfonia

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> New Driver!
> 
> http://lhlabs.com/downloads/LightHarmonic_DriverSetup_v2.23.zip
> 
> ...


 
  
 Oh man... not sure what LH has in mind, what is urgent is the fix for the volume button, we can have the new driver later...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Larry said firmware will be THIS WEEK.


----------



## zilch0md

Well that's good news, IF it contains a fix for the ear-splitting volume control bug.  Sadly, having cancelled my original order for a GO 1000 a long time back, I lost interest while waiting for this fix. Going by how much everyone loves it, despite the problem, I might yet give it a try.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Buttons will be reassigned as 3D on/off and filters switch, minimum phase and linear slow roll-off. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

Can anyone tell me, with the GO1000, is there any problems with using another amp out of the 3.5 mm jack ?


----------



## Poimandres

Shouldnt be I use the P627M out of the 47ohm jack on my 100


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

Alright, cool beans.. I just wanted to ask to be sure. I wonder how this DAC would sound paired with the PanAM's Amp section. I like to think that would be a really cool combo. A friend of mine is bringing over his GO and I am going to pair it with my own ALO PanAm and see how it sounds.


----------



## Poimandres

Keep us updated.  It sounds fantastic with the portaphile.


----------



## Roscoeiii

whiskeyjacks said:


> Alright, cool beans.. I just wanted to ask to be sure. I wonder how this DAC would sound paired with the PanAM's Amp section. I like to think that would be a really cool combo. A friend of mine is bringing over his GO and I am going to pair it with my own ALO PanAm and see how it sounds.


 
 Try before you buy. Not sure how much the GO 1000 would be helped by an external amp on any but the most demanding headphones. Otherwise, an amp would likely just change the flavor rather than being much of a step up from what I can tell from reviews. I have no desire to grab an amp to pair with my GO 450 on the headphones I use with it.


----------



## BiggieSmalls88

I am semi-skeptical in this thing... however, many colleagues of mine like it, although, I'm not positive they know what real Head-Fi sounds like. 
  
 What are the drawbacks of this? More feedback, distortion at higher end? Trying to see why something this cheap would deliver a good sound if it's pumping out enough to power high requirement headphones.


----------



## miceblue

biggiesmalls88 said:


> Trying to see why something this cheap would deliver a good sound if it's pumping out enough to power high requirement headphones.



What exactly is wrong with that? You seem to imply that more power = bad sound. : s

Light Harmonic's forte is the digital side of audio but they use a traditional analogue approach for the analog section. Meaning they focus a lot of the fancy tech on the digital side, class A amplifier section on the analogue side.

If it's any consolation, I own the Objective DAC/Objective 2, JDS Labs C5 and C5D, FiiO E7 and E12, and I've tried many other traditional headphone DACs/amps discussed here on Head-Fi such as the Chord Hugo and I think the Geek Out is one of the best-sounding units in the bunch, regardless of price or power.

The only drawbacks seem to be a high noise floor for sensitive headphones/earphones and it draws too much current for direct Android OTG or iOS use.

I saw you posted in the Seattle/Portland meet thread (I live near the Seattle area). I have two Geek Out units and I only use one. If you'd like, I can ship one to you to try out if you're interested.


----------



## Poimandres

Use an external amp and the noise will disappear.  I must say the Meridian Explorer also sounds really good via the lineout (I believe this to be a true lineout also the volume in windows does not adjust the level when using the lineout) and for 149 on Amazon you can't go wrong.  I contacted Meridian directly and they stated that Audio Advisor only has the lower impedance Explorers.


----------



## miceblue

poimandres said:


> Use an external amp and the noise will disappear.  I must say the Meridian Explorer also sounds really good via the lineout (I believe this to be a true lineout also the volume in windows does not adjust the level when using the lineout) and for 149 on Amazon you can't go wrong.  I contacted Meridian directly and they stated that Audio Advisor only has the lower impedance Explorers.



That's true. For my main setups though (K 701 with 0.47 Ω, K240 M with 47 Ω, or "line out" to STAX SRM-252S), my headphones aren't sensitive enough to pick up the hiss.


----------



## mandrake50

poimandres said:


> I am still not sure if it is a true line out though.




It is not. It is a second headphone output with a higher impedance.


----------



## Poimandres

Hmmm double amping then. I wonder if it has been physically setup to change it to a true line out, it would be nice if a firmware upgrade would allow us to enable/disable if that was the case.


----------



## germay0653

The max output voltage of the Geek Out 1000 is 4V RMS.  LH Labs suggests using the 47 Ohm output for line level purposes.  They also suggest setting all output levels in their control panel to 0 dB for that purpose.
  
 Double amping?  Absolutely!  Consider that a preamplifier amplifies or boosts the signal to line level to feed power amplifiers so the signal IS technically double amplified in that case also.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Geek Out has this bit perfect output feature. It is activated when volume is placed to 0db. (That is why -1db is louder than 0db).

Use this when using Geek Out as line out on 47ohm output socket.


----------



## Poimandres

Ok. I always left it at 100%.


----------



## mandrake50

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Geek Out has this bit perfect output feature. It is activated when volume is placed to 0db. (That is why -1db is louder than 0db).
> 
> Use this when using Geek Out as line out on 47ohm output socket.


 

 This is very interesting, but it is the first time I have heard of it. Where can I read more about it? Where can I read anything about it?
  
 I have noticed that they level drops significantly when going to 0 DB. I thought it was a flaw in the driver... or my system.
  
  
 Edit:
 BTW, I did find this in a quote from Larry on the new firmware:
 "  Also the Bit perfect situation SQ (-0dB) will greatly improved."
  
 I don't think that this is a feature so much as it is the way the volume control works in the digital domain. When you turn it down, it uses a reduction of bits in the process. At 0 DB it is not using bits, so it  "Bit Perfect".
 This would not cause the volume to be reduced at 0 DB though. Have you seen anything else on this?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I don't know how you will call it. But Larry promised this function of bit perfect pass-through / bypass / output when volume is placed to 0db. 

It's buried in the GF Forum threads and KS comment sections. 

Sent thru my Galaxy Note 10.1 (2014 ed.) using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## jcwc

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Geek Out has this bit perfect output feature. It is activated when volume is placed to 0db. (That is why -1db is louder than 0db).


 
  
 I assume this means both the master and analogue 1 & 2 volume are set to 0 dB? Or just one of them?


----------



## mandrake50

jcwc said:


> I assume this means both the master and analogue 1 & 2 volume are set to 0 dB? Or just one of them?




Both. If you want to get as close to bit perfect as the whole system is capable of, you cannot manipulate the bits at any point. Digital volume controls manipulate the bits. Take them out of the equation by using no attenuation. Of course you need to setup your source to not alter anything either. No up conversion, down conversion, no volume changes, no filters or equalization...


----------



## germay0653

jcwc said:


> I assume this means both the master and analogue 1 & 2 volume are set to 0 dB? Or just one of them?


 

 Yes, both!


----------



## jcwc

mandrake50 said:


> Both. If you want to get as close to bit perfect as the whole system is capable of, you cannot manipulate the bits at any point. Digital volume controls manipulate the bits. Take them out of the equation by using no attenuation. Of course you need to setup your source to not alter anything either. No up conversion, down conversion, no volume changes, no filters or equalization...


 
  
 Thanks for the info.
  
 Of course, given that it is sometimes necessary to adjust the volume where do we adjust the volume to have least impact on the sound quality? So say we don't touch the Geek output (all at 0 dB), how about adjusting the players volume (e.g. in foobar)?


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> I don't know how you will call it. But Larry promised this function of bit perfect pass-through / bypass / output when volume is placed to 0db.
> 
> It's buried in the GF Forum threads and KS comment sections.
> 
> Sent thru my Galaxy Note 10.1 (2014 ed.) using Tapatalk Prow


 
 Wait so when I am using another amplifier via headphone jack(47ohm) what should I do? I have done this before with other DAC/Amps but nothing like the GO1000. I just want to get the best quality when I do try it with the PanAm amp section. I mean I will using the GO1000 by itself for a while for my initial impressions and review then I will try it with the PanAm AMp and see how it  sounds. Please let me know when you can and thanks a lot.  I usually turn the DAC/amp unit up to 100% and then make slow incremental adjustments with the headphone amplifier that I am using and take it from there.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

As mentioned above, 0db on LH Control Panel both master and analog. 

And I also do what you're doing, incremental adjustments on the headamp. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## germay0653

I do exactly the same when using GO 720 with the headamp in my Burson Conductor.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Gerrrrry!


----------



## zenpunk

I have been comparing the line out of the my 450 to the Audio-GD NFB3 fed into my Bakoon HPA-21 and sadly the Geek Out didn't fair too well as it sounds quite a bit harsher,  less refined and natural.


----------



## rlawli

zenpunk said:


> I have been comparing the line out of the my 450 to the Audio-GD NFB3 fed into my Bakoon HPA-21 and sadly the Geek Out didn't fair too well as it sounds quite a bit harsher,  less refined and natural.


 
  
 Some detail on your setup please: which driver, 450 power source, source device, ....


----------



## zenpunk

Only using a Mackbook Pro (late 2013) with Amarra. Phones are Fostex TH900 and Oppo PM1.
 I was quite surprised by the difference as I am from the "All properly designed DACs should be indistinguishable" camp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
 I have kind of hoped I could downsize and clear my desk of the large and very ugly NFB3 but sadly that's not going to happen.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

zenpunk said:


> I have been comparing the line out of the my 450 to the Audio-GD NFB3 fed into my Bakoon HPA-21 and sadly the Geek Out didn't fair too well as it sounds quite a bit harsher,  less refined and natural.


 
  
 The new firmware will do magic things 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
 .....well what they (LH Labs) say.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

Well the unit arrived today, and I was not so excited as I normally, due to the day at work...dead tired. But I told myself I would get the software and or drivers setup on this unit and give it a listen when I got in. Well, It did not work out overly well due to the USB ports not reading the GO1000 and it's Software saying it was not plugged in. I went and uninstalled a couple of times trying different things it may of been, eventually I installed a different zip extraction tool and that seemed to do the trick... now I plugged in first and foremost closest headphone on hand which was the modded T50RP's ZMF X Vibro, and let me say that for any of you not knowing what these headphones are and or sound like they are very musical, detailed, yet smooth and engaging. Which it does sound nice with the PanAm but not as nice as the T70p, but when I paired it with the GO1000, fantastic chemistry between the two...aggressively detailed, with that engaging musicality still there but with better treble detail showing (perhaps because of the SS amp instead of the tube hybrid.) But I really liked the pairing because I feel overall detail and musicality was balanced more so with this amp and DAC, granted I still like my T70p more on the PanAm. I think combining the amp from the PanAm and DAC from GO1000 could potentially due fantastic things. Will keep updating.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

Also when is the 47ohms output used for? and the .47? I am not a hundred percent sure and jsut would like to double check with some of the more experienced listener's in the thread, again thank you. 
  
 EDIT: So far I am enjoying the GO1000 very much. It is a quality DAC with great detail, and I really like the tightness and impact that the amp delivers with bass, along with the power for such a small unit it is very good buy at 300$ new. I really do have to say I prefer it to my ODAC-O2 I had for a bit. And it may be on par as a whole to the PanAm unit which is a bit more than this one at retail. Granted I love the PanAm,  but I am still burning this guy in which gets pretty hot given that it's a class A it makes perfect sense. Included with the DAC was a flat square heatsink that I can rest the GO on and it help disperse the heat and keep the DAC from hanging out of my usb port. Works great.
  
 Well off to do some serious listening and will write back sometme later this weekend with some more impressions. Hope you guys are enjoying your's


----------



## Poimandres

47 ohm for higher impedance iems, phones or lineout. .47 for low impedance iems.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

Thanks I thought so, made sense just wanted to be sure. It sounds really good so far, and with the PanAm it works very well Even more detial then with the PanAm DAC(which in comparsion sounded similar to my ODAC)


----------



## Currawong

Slight correction: 
  
 .47 for anything.
 47 Ohm output for 300 Ohms + headphones (ideally, but anything with an impedance higher than 47 Ohms would work OK) and line out to an amp.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

EDIT/Update: 
  
 I have listened to this unit by itself and with the ALO PanAM for more than 20 hours since yesterday.... and god this sounds amazing with the ZMF X Vibros. Such good chemistry, the bass blows my mind with the pairing, taken the Vibros had good impact and depth and the GO just gave it more tight and taught precision along with detail that kind of just knocked me on my ass. I am thoroughly impressed, and and this pairing has beat out anything I have paired with except the T70p with the Alo PanAm but it is a different sound so it is not better or worse jsut different.


----------



## PixelSquish

just got the Geek Out 720 today. First of all the slacker cable doesn't work. When plugging in the geekout with the cable I get no power. I took the receiver for my logitech wireless mouse and tried it in the slacker cable and that doesn't work so I guess it's a defective cable.
  
 Plugging in the unit directly to my laptops usb ports works. Installed the drivers. Testing this with HD600 cans. When I have them plugged into the 47ohm jack the music is horrible - it's like so far away sounds like when a headphone plug is not plugged in all the way for example. If I press down slightly on the geekout while it's plugged into the laptop the sound fixes itself.
  
 However, plugging the HD 600's into the 0.47 ohm jack it's normal all the time. Strange. Any advice here? I plan on contacting their support tomorrow but wondered if anyone here has any info or has had similar issues.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

pixelsquish said:


> just got the Geek Out 720 today. First of all the slacker cable doesn't work. When plugging in the geekout with the cable I get no power. I took the receiver for my logitech wireless mouse and tried it in the slacker cable and that doesn't work so I guess it's a defective cable.
> 
> Plugging in the unit directly to my laptops usb ports works. Installed the drivers. Testing this with HD600 cans. When I have them plugged into the 47ohm jack the music is horrible - it's like so far away sounds like when a headphone plug is not plugged in all the way for example. If I press down slightly on the geekout while it's plugged into the laptop the sound fixes itself.
> 
> However, plugging the HD 600's into the 0.47 ohm jack it's normal all the time. Strange. Any advice here? I plan on contacting their support tomorrow but wondered if anyone here has any info or has had similar issues.


 
 Well I actually just paired the GO1000 with the HD600s tonight because I had not used them with the GO because of not having  a decent cable with 3.5mm. I had my plugged into the 47ohms which at first almost made my ears bleed, but then I adjusted the volume and it sounded very very good. I do not know what is wroong with your headphone out jack but it seems like there is something that may need fixing internally from what you had posted. The unit I have had no problems with defective cable or the 47 and .47 ohm jacks I really hope you are able to fix the problem with the jack. Goodnight headfi till tomorrow.


----------



## cat6man

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Larry said firmware will be THIS WEEK.


 
  
 any update?
 'this week' is over.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

That's what he said.....Making visits to the site everyhour.


----------



## PixelSquish

whiskeyjacks said:


> Well I actually just paired the GO1000 with the HD600s tonight because I had not used them with the GO because of not having  a decent cable with 3.5mm. I had my plugged into the 47ohms which at first almost made my ears bleed, but then I adjusted the volume and it sounded very very good. I do not know what is wroong with your headphone out jack but it seems like there is something that may need fixing internally from what you had posted. The unit I have had no problems with defective cable or the 47 and .47 ohm jacks I really hope you are able to fix the problem with the jack. Goodnight headfi till tomorrow.


 
 thanks for the response. their tech support has responded. they are sending me a new slacker cable and asking an engineer about my weird issue. tested it out on my desktop and achieved the same result as my original post. before was with my laptop.
  
 my HD 600 came with a 3.5mm jack with a 3.5 to 1/4" adapter on them. i guess that's for newer versions of the HD 600.  amazon has a high quality grado 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter for like 15 bucks.


----------



## Sinocelt

http://lhlabs.com/blog/keep-listening-keep-improving-keep-striving-keep-pushing.html
  
 This company is a joke.


----------



## nicolo

sinocelt said:


>


 
  
 Why? So they have a new product. So what?


----------



## Sinocelt

nicolo said:


> Why? So they have a new product. So what?


 
  
 So their very first crowdfunded product still has a bug that prevents me and others from using it. Maybe they should have spent their time on getting the GO right first (not just the hardware, the firmware too) before investing their time in other products.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

So I take it no FW update yet? I went on the site but could not find anything new.


----------



## nicolo

sinocelt said:


> So their very first crowdfunded product still has a bug that prevents me and others from using it. Maybe they should have spent their time on getting the GO right first (not just the hardware, the firmware too) before investing their time in other products.


 
  
 If they had known in advance that the bug would prove to be so persistent, then you are right. I think they should have hired a programmer to write the firmware early on so that at shipping time they would have had time time to work out all the kinks. I think the hardware is fine. Yes some people received faulty units. However that's pretty common for crowd-funded products.


----------



## atsq17

Maybe LH needs new/more software developers. The wait for this firmware update is starting to become intolerably long. I would have recommended the Geek Out to many friends by now but I do not because I can't recommend something that defaults itself to blast their eardrums every time it's plugged in.


----------



## nicolo

atsq17 said:


> Maybe LH needs new/more software developers. The wait for this firmware update is starting to become intolerably long. I would have recommended the Geek Out to many friends by now but I do not because I can't recommend something that defaults itself to blast their eardrums every time it's plugged in.


 
  
 Yup. Same situation here. A couple of my friends have just started on their hi-fi journey and asked me to recommend what components they should get. I recommended the Centrance Hifi M8 to one guy and iBasso D7 to another guy. I would have loved to recommend the GO 450 or 720 to either one. The volume issue is a major deal breaker.


----------



## atsq17

nicolo said:


> Yup. Same situation here. A couple of my friends have just started on their hi-fi journey and asked me to recommend what components they should get. I recommended the Centrance Hifi M8 to one guy and iBasso D7 to another guy. I would have loved to recommend the GO 450 or 720 to either one. The volume issue is a major deal breaker.


 
  
 It's quite sad because I like LH and how they interact with us when designing their products. I went nuts and spent far more than I ever considered doing for a DAP on the Geek Wave. 
  
 However, their failure to address such an obvious and ongoing issue like the firmware is putting seeds of doubt in my mind when considering backing future products like their up-coming amp or pre-amp.


----------



## gavn8r

Just thought I'd jump in real quick.  Unfortunately, I don't find the time to always be up on the conversation, so I miss a lot.  But I thought I'd jump in a address the firmware update.
  
 There are two main reasons for the long wait for the firmware update.  First, what seems like a very simple task ended up shining a big spot light on an issue with the ESS 9018K2M DAC that has to do with noise when certain logic is applied.  This is the third such issue that we've encountered with this DAC.  ESS has been *awesome* at responding to us as we uncover these issues.  Ultimately, though, Larry had to write a lot of new code.  So, what we thought would be a few lines turned into quite a job.
  
 Larry finished the firmware trials yesterday, and I uploaded it to our server.  I sent out links to a few trusted power users to ensure that there wasn't anything we overlooked.  The response came back positively.  So, we're ready to publish the new firmware.  Except...
  
 Reason #2: We're making a quick video to help users walk through the upgrade on the Windows platform.  Once we finish that (should be tomorrow), we'll publish the BIN file and the tutorial.  Keep an eye on our website for that announcement.
  
 For Mac users, we're writing a step-by-step tutorial on how to apply the new firmware using the command line.  As a Mac user myself I hate to say this, but I hope most people will just use a Windows machine to apply the new firmware.
  
 So there you have it.  Thanks so much for keeping this discussion alive!  You guys are incredible.


----------



## atsq17

gavn8r said:


> Just thought I'd jump in real quick.  Unfortunately, I don't find the time to always be up on the conversation, so I miss a lot.  But I thought I'd jump in a address the firmware update.
> 
> There are two main reasons for the long wait for the firmware update.  First, what seems like a very simple task ended up shining a big spot light on an issue with the ESS 9018K2M DAC that has to do with noise when certain logic is applied.  This is the third such issue that we've encountered with this DAC.  ESS has been *awesome* at responding to us as we uncover these issues.  Ultimately, though, Larry had to write a lot of new code.  So, what we thought would be a few lines turned into quite a job.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thanks for the quick response Gav. Is it true that there will be slight audio improvements to Geek Out from the firmware update? (apart from the volume fix)
  
 I can't wait to start recommending it to friends and getting them to try without fearing for their hearing. Great stuff. Better late than never!


----------



## nicolo

Larry just answered this in the forums talking about the changes/updates to the firmware at the link below:
  
 http://lhlabs.com/force/geekout/2081-geek-out-firmware-1v5-upgrades-and-change-log#32777
  
 From Larry:
  
 Hi, all

 Thanks for your patience. Here is the update and change log of 1V5 firmware. (Quite long... be patient)

 1) New Volume Mechanism (different then Beta)

 Geek Out’s internal 64 bit volume control mechanism replace the computer's own volume calculation like before. But we disable the Volume buttons on Geek Out and change it to "mode control".

 When you change the computer volume setting, the button’s setting will be KEPT there on both Mac and Windows. Some Windows version (like version 8.1), you need to use individual analog channel volume settings to control, but it should be memorized by your computer system.

 Bonus: While making our 64 bit digital volume control works better with computer volume settings, We tweak the internal algorithm even better. So some of you already reported the sound quality improvement.

 2) New Master and Individual Channel Volume features:

 To keep the bit perfect as long as possible. Although I still leave the master volume and individual channel volume control there. But the behavior is slightly different.

 When you set MASTER volume to MAX. (-0dbFS), you could adjust the left and right channel to adjust the BALANCE. And keep the other channel Bit Perfect… This is GREAT for the people who use Geek Out as Line Out and want to have Balance feature

 If Master volume is not set to Max, then mater volume’s setting will be applied to both channels.

 3) DSD play back loading is reduced more than 30% in firmware part. Resulting a even more smooth and silky DSD playback. Again, this is a FREE upgrade for all Geek out users.

 4) Optimized the 3L buffer inside the code for Bit Perfect situation. Most of Beta users reported a detectable sound quality improving.

 5) Most important change -- Introducing the TCM and FRM.

 Now with the new 1V5 firmware, your Geek Out has a feature that could change the mode of digital filter and related PLL/ Frequency domain - time domain optimization. One mode we call it "Time Comprehension Mode" (TCM), the other mode we call it "Frequency Response Mode" (FRM).... And we assigned the original "Volume up" buttons for TCM and "Volume Down" for FRM. The sound characters demonstrated are quite amazing. In TCM, we involved the new developed Minimum phase digital filter which creates no "pre-ring". In FRM, we involved slow roll-off linear digital filter with other frequency domain optimization so you could even see a nice THD+N improvement there.

 This new TCM and FRM involved some CPU power so we have to take it from 3D Awesomifier. So 3D Awesomifier is no longer supported in this new firmware.
 
 New firmware file is ready. Just waiting for few more quick feedback from Geek Force testers and the "How to" document. Then it will be ready for you.

 Cheers,

 Larry


----------



## gikigill

I got an email from Larry regarding the above as I was one of the beta testers.


----------



## uncola

Changelog is quite promising!  I would definitely be willing to recommend geek out for noobie friends now.


----------



## cocolinho

Waiting for the availability of the firmware update!


----------



## FlySweep

Kinda bummed they're doing away with the 3D Awesomefier.. it's one of the better/best crossfeed implementations I've heard.


----------



## Sinocelt

nicolo said:


> If they had known in advance that the bug would prove to be so persistent, then you are right. I think they should have hired a programmer to write the firmware early on so that at shipping time they would have had time time to work out all the kinks.


 
  

Did such a glaring problem escape them? If it did, then they failed to test their product properly, which they might not have if they hadn't been working on other products already. If it didn't, then they chose to send out the product anyway, not mentioning the bug, hoping it would be overlooked. Either way, I'm not impressed.
Their programmer couldn't work on the GO firmware; he was too busy working on the prototype Geek Pulse and prototype Geek Wave ... unless LH chose to crowdfund those products without any idea of what the firmware would be, in which case they really jumped the gun.


----------



## georgelai57

This is so complicated. I just hope that when the firmware is released to novice users like myself, it is easy and that it doesn't introduce another set of problems. I think I will hold back as long as possible since living on the other side of the world, I'd hate to have to send back my GOs if new problems arise as a result of the FW update.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

flysweep said:


> Kinda bummed they're doing away with the 3D Awesomefier.. it's one of the better/best crossfeed implementations I've heard.


 
 I do not know if I even want to update the FW, becasuse I actually use the Awesomefier a lot. I do not have any issues with the volume on the unit, from what I can tell, but if there is a sound quality difference I would like to hear it....what to do I have no idea.


----------



## daerron

sinocelt said:


> Did such a glaring problem escape them? If it did, then they failed to test their product properly, which they might not have if they hadn't been working on other products already. If it didn't, then they chose to send out the product anyway, not mentioning the bug, hoping it would be overlooked. Either way, I'm not impressed.
> Their programmer couldn't work on the GO firmware; he was too busy working on the prototype Geek Pulse and prototype Geek Wave ... unless LH chose to crowdfund those products without any idea of what the firmware would be, in which case they really jumped the gun.


 
  
 With Larry's comments about the ESS9018K2M I wouldn't be surprised if they uncovered a bug in the silicon. If that is the case then solving the problem can become quite complicated, the manufacturer needs to identify the issue, file an errata sheet and workaround. Not uncommon with firmware design and breaking new ground and can be challenging to solve and uncover the root cause... Usually if the issue is in the low level drivers it can be fixed quite quickly.
  
 Keenly following the issue as I'm interested in the GO1000.


----------



## NinjaHamster

whiskeyjacks said:


> I do not know if I even want to update the FW, becasuse I actually use the Awesomefier a lot. I do not have any issues with the volume on the unit, from what I can tell, but if there is a sound quality difference I would like to hear it....what to do I have no idea.


 
 The Lord giveth and he taketh away ....


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

ninjahamster said:


> The Lord giveth and he taketh away ....


 
 Well.... I do not like it! lol, I really do love the Awesomefier with the ZMF X Vibro. Do i have to update?  if I do not then I will probably wait for you guys to to report back on the FW and if it made a difference with sq(which I already think is top notch for price) and then go from there.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

Well Guys the email for the new firmware is here, just received it in the email for the link for the support page. Anyone gone ahead and install it yet?


----------



## chartwell85

I've been listening to mine all day (perk of the job) and it sounds FANTASTIC! 
  
 Maybe I'm a bit biased though


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

chartwell85 said:


> I've been listening to mine all day (perk of the job) and it sounds FANTASTIC!


 
 I am a little hesitant because I am not experiencing any problems with mine so far, and the update removes the ability to use awesomefier, which I use quite often and love it. What is your take on that?


----------



## chartwell85

whiskeyjacks said:


> I am a little hesitant because I am not experiencing any problems with mine so far, and the update removes the ability to use awesomefier, which I use quite often and love it. What is your take on that?


 

 The main reason we decided to "eliminate" the awesomefier is due in part to the requests of the Geek Force.  They felt is was bit lacking so we decided to up the ante a bit and offer TCM & FRM instead.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

Okay so the volume up and down buttons will grant one access to using these new options with the GO1000?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

NEW FIRMWARE IS OUT!

Link to supoort page: http://lhlabs.com/support.html

Firmware Version 1.5 B1: http://lhlabs.com/downloads/Geek_Out_Firware_1V5.bin.zip

Tutorial (Windows): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JeLfQclI-oU


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

chartwell85 said:


> The main reason we decided to "eliminate" the awesomefier is due in part to the requests of the Geek Force.  They felt is was bit lacking so we decided to up the ante a bit and offer TCM & FRM instead.  I


 
 I downloaded the firmware while we were talking, and I wanted to know if you explain to me what the TCM and FRM do for someone that does not know much about these kind of things?


----------



## AxelCloris

chartwell85 said:


> I've been listening to mine all day (perk of the job) and it sounds FANTASTIC!
> 
> Maybe I'm a bit biased though


 
  
 Class A biased?


----------



## chartwell85

axelcloris said:


> Class A biased?


 

 Exactly, nice catch


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

axelcloris said:


> Class A biased?


 
 Har har har.


----------



## M3NTAL

Would be nice to have an explanation of what the volume presses do now.


----------



## chartwell85

whiskeyjacks said:


> I downloaded the firmware while we were talking, and I wanted to know if you explain to me what the TCM and FRM do for someone that does not know much about these kind of things?


 

 Direct from Larry
  
 Now with the new 1V5 firmware, your Geek Out has a feature that could change the mode of digital filter and related PLL/ Frequency domain - time domain optimization. One mode we call it "Time Coherent Mode" (TCM), the other mode we call it "Frequency Response Mode" (FRM).... And we assigned the original "Volume up" buttons for TCM and "Volume Down" for FRM. The sound characters demonstrated are quite amazing. In TCM, we involved the new developed Minimum phase digital filter which creates no "pre-ring". In FRM, we involved slow roll-off linear digital filter with other frequency domain optimization so you could even see a nice THD+N improvement there.

 This new TCM and FRM involved some CPU power so we have to take it from 3D Awesomifier. So 3D Awesomifier is no longer supported in this new firmware.


----------



## jcwc

whiskeyjacks said:


> I do not know if I even want to update the FW, becasuse I actually use the Awesomefier a lot. I do not have any issues with the volume on the unit, from what I can tell, but if there is a sound quality difference I would like to hear it....what to do I have no idea.


 
  
 You can upgrade to the new firmware and try it. If you don't like it as much as the old one you can re-flash your GO to the original (which LH has also published on their support page).


----------



## jcwc

m3ntal said:


> Would be nice to have an explanation of what the volume presses do now.


 
  
 Press volume up for TCM mode (this is the default mode anyway) and volume down for FRM. You can swap between the two modes any time.


----------



## miceblue

I posted this in another thread, but it's relevant here too.

So the new firmware update itself introduces better optimisation for DSD loading to avoid pauses that some people experienced, as well as an optimised the 3L buffer whatever that is. Switching between the first and beta firmware, it made the music a little smoother-sounding.

The volume buttons have been replaced with changing digital filters:

 Volume up: "Time Comprehension Mode" (TCM) - a minimum phase filter with no pre-ringing on the impulse response at the cost of having more post-ringing and phase change (I find this mode to sound smoother than the one below)
 Volume down: "Frequency Response Mode" (FRM) - a normal brick-wall linear filter but it has a slow roll-off instead of a sharp one, which creates less ringing all-together at the cost of allowing higher-frequency aliasing to possibly interfere with the music

Volume control is now done via your computer while keeping everything bit-perfect.


The firmware can be downloaded from here:
http://lhlabs.com/support.html
or to save you a mouse click
http://lhlabs.com/downloads/Geek_Out_Firware_1V5.bin.zip

Installation is easy. Download the above .zip file, extract it to somewhere on your computer, open C:/Program Files/Light Harmonic/USB_Audio_Driver/LightHarmonicDFU.exe, plug in the Geek Out, browse your computer for the extracted file, press the start button, wait for it to finish installing the firmware, exit the program, unplug/replug in the Geek Out.

If you want to switch back to the original firmware, do the exact same thing as above but with this .zip folder instead:
http://lhlabs.com/downloads/Geek_Out_Firware_1V0.bin.zip

As of right now, you can't change the firmware via OS X.


----------



## atsq17

My initial impressions of new firmware.
  
 RE-400 and JH13 FP PRO IEM: Sounds excellent. Comparable to when I run it off the $1800 Bakoon HPA-01 which is one of my favorite setups with IEMs. Better than I remember the Geek Out to be. Sounds fantastic for IEMs. 
  
 Beyer T1 is good but doesn't compare to my $2000 desktop setup. Very clear sound but doesn't have the same weight of sound, bass impact and realism. Still good and an improvement I think.
  
 Ask for a fix to volume bug and we get audio improvements. Good show LH. Good show.


----------



## cocolinho

New firmware just downloaded, installation went very smooth, it was done in few seconds.
 I had no issue before with volume as I max'ed volume of GO & played with foobar volume.
  
 Since I have GO1000 + HD700, I don't feel the need to upgrade anymore...


----------



## CEE TEE

Great to be able to go back if needed...that takes the risk out of moving to the new FW.  Thanks!


----------



## Baycode

Is this new firmware applicable/compatible with the GO720 as well?


----------



## Poimandres

I would think for all geek outs


----------



## MikeyFresh

poimandres said:


> I would think for all geek outs


 

 Yes, it is compatible with all models regardless of power/output.


----------



## Barra

cocolinho said:


> New firmware just downloaded, installation went very smooth, it was done in few seconds.
> I had no issue before with volume as I max'ed volume of GO & played with foobar volume.
> 
> Since I have GO1000 + HD700, I don't feel the need to upgrade anymore...




I have the same setup and I agree that it is an otherworldly awesome pairing.


----------



## WickedChicken

miceblue said:


> As of right now, you can't change the firmware via OS X.


 
 Well that kind of blows.  We've been Widnows free for about 5 years now and I don't see that changing any time soon.


----------



## Audio Addict

Just finished updating my GO450 and GO1000 and it went smoothly with the LH install software.  Can't believe Windows is easier than MAC OS X for once.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

I have to agree, I liked the awesomefier, but the loss of it for the better options, less issues, and better sound quality was worth it.


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

baycode said:


> Is this new firmware applicable/compatible with the GO720 as well?


 
 Wanted to know if you got it to work with you GO720 no problems?


----------



## eliwankenobi

The firmware works on all models. On the LHLabs forum users of the GO720 have done the upgrade no problem.
  
 Another positive is that it appears that no longer it is necessary to use a USB hub when connecting the GO with CCK with an iphone. You do need a Y splitter and an external power source (like a battery).


----------



## FlySweep

Listening with the latest firmware for the past couple of days.. and I'm very impressed.  TCM mode.. this is now one of the best 9018 implementations I've heard.  LH seems to have done a really nice job mitigating that Sabre "glare."  Great job, Larry!


----------



## Poimandres

9018 or just the k2 or w/e is in the go?


----------



## cocolinho

K2 I believe


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Damn the Driver 2.23 + Firmware 1.5 on TCM combo gives me another level of listening.

Just can't get over it. This tiny usb stick, this level of SQ.....


----------



## rdsu

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Damn the Driver 2.23 + Firmware 1.5 on TCM combo gives me another level of listening.
> 
> Just can't get over it. This tiny usb stick, this level of SQ.....



Me too!!!

It's like having a new better DAC...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

You said it Rui!


----------



## eliwankenobi

Amen to that!


----------



## glassmonkey

Considering a geek out 720, geek out 1000, or the ifi Nano iDSD. Has anyone here listened to all of them? At present the geek or iDSD would be driving RE0 and KRK KNS8400. As you can tell from my ear gear, I like a neutral bright sound. Improving the relatively small soundstage of both of these phones would be good, but not at the expense of imaging. I'm considering adding a pair of Q701s to my headphone stable, and potentially a nuForce Primo 8, but I'll have to save the coin for the nuForces.
  
 Does anyone have experience with any of these phones and the geeks and/or iDSD? I hope all the helpful folks of Head-Fi have some helpful help.


----------



## doctorjazz

Like both filters, overall sound much improved, surprising


----------



## WickedChicken

glassmonkey said:


> Considering a geek out 720, geek out 1000, or the ifi Nano iDSD. Has anyone here listened to all of them? At present the geek or iDSD would be driving RE0 and KRK KNS8400. As you can tell from my ear gear, I like a neutral bright sound. Improving the relatively small soundstage of both of these phones would be good, but not at the expense of imaging. I'm considering adding a pair of Q701s to my headphone stable, and potentially a nuForce Primo 8, but I'll have to save the coin for the nuForces.
> 
> Does anyone have experience with any of these phones and the geeks and/or iDSD? I hope all the helpful folks of Head-Fi have some helpful help.



I have the Q701s and 720 and find it to be a great pairing. there is more than enough power to allow the q701s to really open up.


----------



## miceblue

Interesting

[video]http://youtu.be/yQlvjqQnzME?t=18m41s[/video]


----------



## doublea71

I'm kind of excited about the Schiit Fulla (or is that vice-versa?) - $79 bucks!


----------



## glassmonkey

Interesting indeed. But the question for me is whether the Schitt Fulla will support native DSD. Looking at the spec sheet, it looks like the AK4396 can play DSD, but the question will be whether it converts it to PCM to do so. I've looked for an official news release with more stats, but I don't think we'll be hearing more until after RMAF. Additionally, Schitt has been harder to get in Europe, so that may be a consideration.
  
 Quote:


miceblue said:


> Interesting


----------



## nicolo

What interests me is that the Yggdrasil will be there. I really wish i could go there. Anyway the reason i am interested in the Yggy is this post:
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/667711/new-schiit-ragnarok-and-yggdrasil/3030#post_10915214


----------



## uncola

glassmonkey I can't tell if you're joking.. Schiit is anti dsd and have no plans on adding it to anything


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

Then why did they come out with the Loki?


----------



## nicolo

They did just so that they wouldn't be left behind if there had been unexpected demand. You can read about it from the Schiit Happens thread. Link attached below:
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/701900/schiit-happened-the-story-of-the-worlds-most-improbable-start-up/2820#post_10906645
  
  
 Quote:


whiskeyjacks said:


> Then why did they come out with the Loki?


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

Figures since they did not make a higher end amp with DSD, and thanks was just wondering I am actually looking at couple Schiit amps for future upgrade which would be paired with the GO1000, have you guys noticed since the FW update that there is less noise with using an separate amp via headphone jack from GO1000? one of the first things I noticed was improved quality wiht the PanAm as an amp and also the improved sound quality as a DAC from the GO1000. Also Looking at Schiit MjoInir and Lyr 2 to pair with the GO1000 and the HE 560. Not sure yet but I am hoping that I can figure out which route I am going. Do not get me wrong there is some definite chemistry between the HE-560 and GO1000, it sounds delicious. But I know a more powerful amp at 50ohms would be able to bring out even more potential from this headphone with the Geek as a DAC.


----------



## mandrake50

Check out the Garage1217 Project Polaris.
  That and a decent upgradeable DAC and you can avoid the "Shiit"
 Or just  get a DAC that does what you need to begin with.. TH GO 1000 looks good for that!
  
 Nothing against those units, lots love them, but they just seem to be over hyped around here.
 Maybe because lots have them.
 I had a Lyr 2 with stock tubes for about a month. I kept my Sunrise III and ODAC.
 The Lyr 2 is gone.
  
 There are better for cheaper if you care to stray from the beaten path.
  
 If you have the GO 1000, driving the Polaris with it from the 47 ohm output is great!  With the new firmware it is even nicer!


----------



## glassmonkey

uncola said:


> glassmonkey I can't tell if you're joking.. Schiit is anti dsd and have no plans on adding it to anything


 
 They are also anti portable dac, and they are releasing the Fulla. They have also made the Loki, a *DSD only dac*. Beyond this, as I've said, the DAC is DSD compatible. They don't appear to be anti-dsd. Maybe I don't know Schiit, though. I'll wait and see what Schiit says.


----------



## uncola

edited for courtesey:
  
 glassmonkey haha sorry if I seemed assholish but jason stoddard just published a chapter of his book last week about why they don't like dsd in the thread about schiit starting up and growing as a company and he reaffirmed it by debating a dude and refuting his reasons why dsd is superior one by one in the same thread only 2 days ago.. it got some publicity elsewhere.  
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/701900/schiit-happened-the-story-of-the-worlds-most-improbable-start-up/2940#post_10932686
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/701900/schiit-happened-the-story-of-the-worlds-most-improbable-start-up/2940#post_10932686


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

mandrake50 said:


> Check out the Garage1217 Project Polaris.
> That and a decent upgradeable DAC and you can avoid the "Shiit"
> Or just  get a DAC that does what you need to begin with.. TH GO 1000 looks good for that!
> 
> ...


 
 It is funny that you said that because I have been talking to jeremy for a week or two about my options with going the Garage1217 route. he is a great guy and I am really wanting to try either the ember, andor the polaris. How is the polaaris have you tried it? I have heard good things, and that it can power the he5650 no problems.


----------



## mandrake50

I don't have the 560.
 The Polaris is well able to power the most demanding (HD650) headphones that I have.
  
 I have had mine for something like 6 weeks. How is it... I really like it. This is all real subjective, but the amp sounds quite lively.. very open, good strong bass and as much sub-bass as the headphone can provide.
 It makes the 400i absolutely sing..
 To me!


----------



## Lohb

subbed


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

mandrake50 said:


> I don't have the 560.
> The Polaris is well able to power the most demanding (HD650) headphones that I have.
> 
> I have had mine for something like 6 weeks. How is it... I really like it. This is all real subjective, but the amp sounds quite lively.. very open, good strong bass and as much sub-bass as the headphone can provide.
> ...


 
 Well I was looking at some audi gd stuff


----------



## junker

Yeah they are well know for feeling that DSD is a niche, fad, buzzword, etc. Same thing with Charlie Hansen.
  
 They are entitles to manage their product features the way they see fit, but when I look at my library and have mrs DSD ISOs than PCM  that;s going to take precedent over what those brilliant engineers and entrepreneurs think.


----------



## Lohb

Just did 86 pages of catch-up yesterday and thinking out loud below....
  
 Bit negligent to have this potential ear-damaging issue for so long ! Lots of beta testers paying retail to have their brain flipped upside down ! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 I was thinking of getting a DX90 but this may be a solution for me on Macbook Air for transportable music with Audirvana+....some users saying GO1000 better than DX90..... Great !
  
 Great clean power solutions and idevice workarounds in there.... going to look at teradac solution for desktop and battery power with Y-split USB for mobile use....thanks Zilch as always for your peripherals solutions...be interesting to see your take on it vs Bushmaster MK 2/iBasso PB2 and LCD 2.1's
  
 So the original DAC chip was TI now a (single/double ?) *ES9018K-2M.......*
 ....there is a current firmware update just released in September but the 3D spacialiser is gone. Some members saying the new firmware is even better sounding (excellent !) The volume buttons now re-assigned to other new features.....
  
 I could not see any mention of the OPAMP but it might be *LME49990 x 2* (?) from reading on another forum which would be perfect.
 Strangely the company has no hard tech specs on their site , but broad descriptions of the device for mainstream consumers... but now reading the firmware update benefits a few pages back from the coder/designer... it is a bit of a 'mindflub' for any non-techy person to understand the firmware improvements to the device beyond the volume spike issue being resolved....from one one extreme to another !
  
 Anyway, scanning the images shared of the cans it is powering,  this little box of magic looks like a sub-$800 amp/DAC combo market disruptor.
 Late to the party, but drinks (firmware) just being served.


----------



## gyx11

Sorry for this rather rookie question,

 Correct me if I'm wrong, but for the new firmware, to use the 47-Ohm output as a line-out to feed a dedicated amp, am I supposed to turn the master volume in the LH control panel to the max, or simply just the digital windows volume slider (or both?)
  
 In either case, won't it not be a true line level output, but technically just double amping?
  
 Thanks!


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

gyx11 said:


> Sorry for this rather rookie question,
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but for the new firmware, to use the 47-Ohm output as a line-out to feed a dedicated amp, am I supposed to turn the master volume in the LH control panel to the max, or simply just the digital windows volume slider (or both?)
> 
> ...


 
 I have my PanAm out of the 47 ohm jack which was recommended both by GO and this thread, and the volume on the GO1000 is at 100% supposedly best way to acheive bit perfect?  so I then find the right volume on the dedicated amp. That is usually how I do but not sure if that is the best way to go about it, but it seems to work well for me


----------



## mandrake50

whiskeyjacks said:


> Well I was looking at some audi gd stuff




I just got an NFB 11 from them. The latest version. So far I like it, though I need to listen more extensively. 
It is simply in a different class than the GO. Not because of sound quality in this case, because it is definitely a desktop machine that is nowhere close to being portable.
I suppose that someone could compare them sonically, and I will at some point, but they are simply devices that will be used in completely different situations for me anyway.
I will not be throwing the Audio-GD unit in my briefcase or overnight bag for a short trip. I most certainly will have the GO with me for those occasions...
And I will not be worrying the entire time about missing anything when listening to my music.


----------



## Lohb

Can anyone confirm that the GO1000 in red has not had its shell/finish quality downgraded ?
  
 I think I read someone got it in red back in the thread and the finish was kind of lower grade on the exterior ?
  
 It is brushed aluminum with red anodize on it, right ?


----------



## Lohb

@chartwell85 can you confirm :-
  
 which OPAMPs are being used inside the GO1000
 and
 whether the ESS chips are single or dual chip implementation please ?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I'll answer that for you...

DAC Chip: Single ESS ESS9018K2M
OPAMP: OPA1652

Further info see link: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AljAXIFo7qVqdFdmVUoxOXB1VzFPaGtkQXdRa01ibUE#gid=0


----------



## eliwankenobi

Hey Mickey, did you receive your GO SE?


----------



## AxelCloris

lohb said:


> Can anyone confirm that the GO1000 in red has not had its shell/finish quality downgraded ?
> 
> I think I read someone got it in red back in the thread and the finish was kind of lower grade on the exterior ?
> 
> It is brushed aluminum with red anodize on it, right ?


 
  
 The red GO 1000 does indeed have a different finish compared to the GO 450 and 720. The black in the photos below is a 720 model.
  

  

  
 Note in the second photo that all 3 of my GO have a different level of gloss on the finish, the SE being the most reflective. I took 2 photos to get different lighting angles to try and make the differences more pronounced.


----------



## Lohb

axelcloris said:


> The red GO 1000 does indeed have a different finish compared to the GO 450 and 720. The black in the photos below is a 720 model.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks. It looks like the red one has had the photoshop treatment with stock photos elsewhere..... !


----------



## AxelCloris

lohb said:


> Thanks. It looks like the red one has had the photoshop treatment with stock photos elsewhere..... !


 
  
 No Photoshop, actually. The original run (Kickstarter backers) received red GOs that have a glossy finish where as the current production models have a matte finish. The photos you're seeing online are from the original production run.


----------



## cocolinho

axelcloris said:


> No Photoshop, actually. The original run (Kickstarter backers) received red GOs that have a glossy finish where as the current production models have a matte finish. The photos you're seeing online are from the original production run.


 

 I confirm, mine is red with matte finish, very nice looking unit!


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

eliwankenobi said:


> Hey Mickey, did you receive your GO SE?



 


Hi Eli!

No, I didn't order one. Was tempted, but decided to save my money and backed a fully tricked out Wave.


----------



## Lohb

Anyone using this between computer and GO1000 ?
 It is another cheap electrical noise clean up device.....
  
http://hifimediy.com/usb-isolator

 Edit : It is about the length of the stock USB extension cable, pretty minimalistic/transportable and I wonder how it would hold up against the teradak desktop solution being powered off mains electricity.


----------



## mandrake50

The MAX 200mA output would be of some concern... I would think.
Though I don't recall seeing any power draw specs on the GO 1000, there have been a few discussions on whether 500 mA is really adequate for it.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

These have ratings only 24/96 some may reach 24/192. But that's it.
  
 Some users here went to cutting off the noise coming form the usb by supplying to a clean linear power supply.
  
 This is done thru a modified Data only + Power only Y cable.


----------



## Lohb

Aaaaaah ! Back to Teradak and battery solutions then for planar cans.
  
 Thanks for picking up on the limited power throughput and sample rates...


----------



## glassmonkey

Would a wireworld usb cable solve power noise issues? They appear to physically isolate the power line from the data line, which should result in cleaner data transmission. I'm no scientist, so any scientists please weigh in.


----------



## eliwankenobi

No, the idea is to only use data from the computer and power from an external device with less noise than the PC.... Although separating the power lines from the data lines in the usb cable does help apparently. I havent tested this myself yet.


----------



## rlawli

glassmonkey said:


> Would a wireworld usb cable solve power noise issues? They appear to physically isolate the power line from the data line, which should result in cleaner data transmission. I'm no scientist, so any scientists please weigh in.


 
  
 Wireworld makes a variety of good usb cables of  increasing cost. Surprise. These cables do not, however, address the problem of the various kinds of noise generated by the computer which travel down the usb power line inside the cable to the usb power connector on the GO: so the power supply for the GO is the 5V power from the computer and they share a common ground which creates a direct link between the computer noise and the GO. There are ways to address this issue at the GO but I do not recall hearing anything about the GO using opto isolation at its end of the usb power line. In their other DAC/amps LightHarmonic has addressed this issue by isolating the computer usb voltage and interposing an optional linear power supply to power their DAC/amps. Other members on this thread have solved this problem in two ways by either 1) buying an inexpensive (around $50) linear power supply or using a rechargeable lithium ion battery. Both solutions require several usb cables, frequently including a y-cable. The disadvantage of the linear power supply solution is that it is not very portable. You can search the thread for details on both solutions.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

eliwankenobi said:


> No, the idea is to only use data from the computer and power from an external device with less noise than the PC.... Although separating the power lines from the data lines in the usb cable does help apparently. I havent tested this myself yet.



 


I encourage you. Its not that expensive (esp. on battery pack solution) but the effect is great.


----------



## eliwankenobi

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> eliwankenobi said:
> 
> 
> > No, the idea is to only use data from the computer and power from an external device with less noise than the PC.... Although separating the power lines from the data lines in the usb cable does help apparently. I havent tested this myself yet.
> ...




You know, I actually have a Y splitter and PowerStix battery that I've used with my iphone5 and cck, but have not tried it with my laptop, havent thought of it! Will give it a try in my main system!


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Make sure to cover the 5v pin on the connector going from the laptop. ^_^

Sent from my Samsung Note 3 using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## sling5s

Downloading the firmware and I get a Adobe file.  Using winzip to extract it and it's Adobe file that does not open.  Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Here are the steps. 

Before running update be sure: 

a. Geek Out is attached to system and is the default sound device.
b. Close other running programs.

Update procedure:

1. download Geek_Out_Firware_1V5.bin.zip at http://lhlabs.com/downloads/Geek_Out_Firware_1V5.bin.zip
2. extract file (using winzip, winrar, 7zip etc.)
3. Go to C:\Program Files\Light Harmonic\USB_Audio_Driver
4. Execute LightHarmonicDfu.exe
5. Indicate where Geek_Out_Firware_1V5.bin is extracted and proceed.

If you haven't installed the new driver please do so. It has some added SQ benefits too.
Link: http://lhlabs.com/downloads/LightHarmonic_DriverSetup_v2.23.zip


----------



## Poimandres

If you don't have it plugged in it will ask (maybe tell) you to plug it in.


----------



## sling5s

thanks. It worked. Now for listening


----------



## Lohb

I saw one member in the thread thought the GO1000 held its own against Chord Hugo. Anyone else compared the two ?


----------



## eliwankenobi

Im gonna go all fanboy and say it can go against it very well!


----------



## Poimandres

Lol.


----------



## jcwc

lohb said:


> I saw one member in the thread thought the GO1000 held its own against Chord Hugo. Anyone else compared the two ?


 
  
 My impression was that the member said it was in the same ballpark, though not necessarily as good. Though the point was that even for the GO 1000 to be mentioned in the same company as the Hugo is a good sign! 
  
 That begs the question of how much closer the GO SE is to the Hugo?


----------



## Poimandres

Well maybe it surpasses it? What do the se's run?


----------



## Lohb

jcwc said:


> Though the point was that even for the GO 1000 to be mentioned in the same company as the Hugo is a good sign!
> That begs the question of how much closer the GO SE is to the Hugo?


 
 Exactly ! Based on their price difference which is huge, I'm surprised any comparison was made....and when it was, it shows how disconnected pricing can be. I'd not buy the Hugo even if the cash fell on my lap.


----------



## Poimandres

More dollars than cents (sense). Diminishing returns.


----------



## jcwc

poimandres said:


> Well maybe it surpasses it? What do the se's run?


 
  
 I heard the GO SE was $799. Limited edition, all spoken for.


----------



## Poimandres

Really 799?  Damn...................


----------



## AxelCloris

poimandres said:


> Well maybe it surpasses it? What do the se's run?


 
  
 Assuming you can find someone selling it and they're pricing it to break even, $800. More than likely owners of the SE won't be selling theirs and if they do it'll probably be a bit more than what they paid originally. I haven't had it for very long but it's definitely the best USB stick DAC/amp I've ever heard. Now, if someone wants to give me a Hugo...


----------



## Poimandres

So how much better is it than a normal geek out?


----------



## AxelCloris

Since I'm still breaking it in I don't want to compare too much yet. It arrived only a few days ago and I've only had a chance to listen to it for a few hours. I believe in burn in, whether in the device or in my head, so I'm listening to get used to it and then I'll do a nice head to head with the 1000.
  
 But I can say that so far I'm impressed.


----------



## miceblue

lol
I just realised that one of the photos I took of my Geek Out from July is in their Instagram. I didn't give them permission to use it, but I don't mind too much as long as they provide the credit that I was the one who took the photo.
http://instagram.com/p/qwzxUDJ0iL/

I can't find that image anywhere on Head-Fi nor the LH Forums, but I used it for the thumbnail for my unboxing video on YouTube.
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/q4vLWHtBT4Y/maxresdefault.jpg
That's from the YouTube source code, which I uploaded July 9. The photo on Instagram was uploaded July 22.


----------



## Lohb

Wonder if the opamp chip would be upgradeable to LME49990 ?
 Not sure of the current socket/space avail. or compatibility with the rest of the unit....


----------



## germay0653

poimandres said:


> Well maybe it surpasses it? What do the se's run?


 

 They're limited to a run of about 32 only and were sold at about $999.


----------



## doctorjazz

SSo far loving my SE, also haven't had time to listen extensively or break in. Would also be happy to compare to Hugo if someone will send/lend me one.


----------



## Lohb

Is the original TI PCM1795 less analytical than the Sabre chip on the GO 1000 ?
 Anyone got both with the latest firmware ?


----------



## AxelCloris

lohb said:


> Is the original TI PCM1795 less analytical than the Sabre chip on the GO 1000 ?
> Anyone got both with the latest firmware ?


 
  
 I'm sorry, but both what? There's no Geek Outs that have the PCM1795, all come with the ES9018M.


----------



## Lohb

axelcloris said:


> I'm sorry, but both what? There's no Geek Outs that have the PCM1795, all come with the ES9018M.


 

 The green kickstarter one.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. I think it was made before they went for ESS and wonder if the new firmware will cover that early model for button reassignment.


----------



## Barra

Went to CANJAM hoping to hear the new Wave to see if it retained the GO1000 sound in a portable form factor, but came home disappointed. They didn't have anything ready to show. Someone reported hearing a prototype of the DAC, but I thing a lot of the magic is in its A class amp and its matching with the DAC so not a reliable listen IMO. The did report that they were expecting it to appear in Q1 2015 so hopefully it will not be too long.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## AxelCloris

lohb said:


> The green kickstarter one.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 They changed to the ESS before any GO were manufactured beyond the prototypes. You won't find a GO with PCM1795 outside of LH's offices and certainly not in a production case. They were just test boards.
  
 The green Kickstarter units came with the ESS chip. The only thing different about them and the current line is the color.


----------



## longbowbbs

I am doing a review between the GO 1000 and the GO IEM100. The IEM100 has a lower noise floor and 100 MW output for primarily IEM use.
  

  

 Red GO 1000 (Mine) Black GO IEM100


----------



## Poimandres

What if any sq difference is there with the same iems? Are both units on the same f/w? Is it the latest f/w and driver?


----------



## longbowbbs

poimandres said:


> What if any sq difference is there with the same iems? Are both units on the same f/w? Is it the latest f/w and driver?


 

 I am working on the SQ question. I am using the same JH Audio JH16's with Toxic Cables Silver Widow cables. Same firmware, the new1.5. Mac OS X so no driver needed.


----------



## mandrake50

barra said:


> Went to CANJAM hoping to hear the new Wave to see if it retained the GO1000 sound in a portable form factor, but came home disappointed. They didn't have anything ready to show. Someone reported hearing a prototype of the DAC, but I thing a lot of the magic is in its A class amp and its matching with the DAC so not a reliable listen IMO. The did report that they were expecting it to appear in Q1 2015 so hopefully it will not be too long.


 

 I went by the 11th floor room on several occasions but they had a sign up closed for a "private" session.
 The , reportedly, had a sort of pre-anything, version of the analog amp for the Wave in the room. Some that listened said it was good.
 People complained that they could not hear the DAC and Amp.
 Larry replied that  they had a Stream there that had both sections. If I recall, the stream was the lowest form f of the Wave, with no bells and whistles, no UI,  nor any high buck upgrades..
  
 I tried, but did not get to listen to any of the permutations.


----------



## Lohb

axelcloris said:


> They changed to the ESS before any GO were manufactured beyond the prototypes. You won't find a GO with PCM1795 outside of LH's offices and certainly not in a production case. They were just test boards.
> 
> The green Kickstarter units came with the ESS chip. The only thing different about them and the current line is the color.


 

 This must have incorrect DAC chip on ebay then.
 Oh well, was just curious when I read the spec and it showed TI.


----------



## longbowbbs

I had a chance to go into the private session with the LHLabs Keep Amp prototype. They were feeding it from a Pulse X using the full linear power supply and importing files from a local wireless network.  They played three different tracks each with a different timbre and style emphasis. I liked what I heard. Acoustic guitar had nice attack and fingering on the strings. Decay was very accurate. Another track had cymbals that rang true and appropriate spacing for the performers spatial positioning. There was a reasonable 3D sense as well for front to back representation. I will start a new Keep thread on AVSForum and cover the details from there since Head-Fi is really not the right place for a speaker amp review..
  
  
 http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/1723282-lh-labs-keep-mono-amplifier.html#post28257354


----------



## miceblue

mandrake50 said:


> barra said:
> 
> 
> > Went to CANJAM hoping to hear the new Wave to see if it retained the GO1000 sound in a portable form factor, but came home disappointed. They didn't have anything ready to show. Someone reported hearing a prototype of the DAC, but I thing a lot of the magic is in its A class amp and its matching with the DAC so not a reliable listen IMO. The did report that they were expecting it to appear in Q1 2015 so hopefully it will not be too long.
> ...



Geek Stream is the basic Wave but without a screen (unless you got the IEM and/or femto clock upgrades for it), which makes it like the upcoming OPPO HA-2 or Sony PHA-3.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1570526013176017.1073741834.1400689476826339&type=3





^ iPhone 6 Plus connected to the Stream with a Lightning Camera Connection Kit (which can give you the ability to natively play back 24/384 and DSD128 music from your iPhone)


----------



## doctorjazz

longbowbbs said:


> I had a chance to go into the private session with the LHLabs Keep Amp prototype. They were feeding it from a Pulse X using the full linear power supply and importing files from a local wireless network.  They played three different tracks each with a different timbre and style emphasis. I liked what I heard. Acoustic guitar had nice attack and fingering on the strings. Decay was very accurate. Another track had cymbals that rang true and appropriate spacing for the performers spatial positioning. There was a reasonable 3D sense as well for front to back representation. I will start a new Keep thread on AVSForum and cover the details from there since Head-Fi is really not the right place for a speaker amp review..
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/1723282-lh-labs-keep-mono-amplifier.html#post28257354




I know this isn't the right place, but I don't belong to AVS forums (at least, not yet)
They are CROWDFUNDING AN AMP? FOR REGULAR SPEAKERS?
Not really in the market (though, I suppose I wasn't in the market for something like the Geek Out, and wound up with a 1K and an SE), but I'm really curious. And, of course, wondering how it would stack against my venerable Krell KSA-150...


----------



## longbowbbs

doctorjazz said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > I had a chance to go into the private session with the LHLabs Keep Amp prototype. They were feeding it from a Pulse X using the full linear power supply and importing files from a local wireless network.  They played three different tracks each with a different timbre and style emphasis. I liked what I heard. Acoustic guitar had nice attack and fingering on the strings. Decay was very accurate. Another track had cymbals that rang true and appropriate spacing for the performers spatial positioning. There was a reasonable 3D sense as well for front to back representation. I will start a new Keep thread on AVSForum and cover the details from there since Head-Fi is really not the right place for a speaker amp review..
> ...


 

 Yes...Since they are for speakers I am not going to create a Head-Fi forum for them. Anyone should be able to read the info on AVS without joining. Good site though. I am anxious to get them in house. I would like to see where they fit along side other amps that have quality reputations.


----------



## doctorjazz

longbowbbs said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > longbowbbs said:
> ...




1 more question-any idea how much they will go for on the crowdfunding site?


----------



## longbowbbs

doctorjazz said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > doctorjazz said:
> ...


 
 Given the Price/Performance ratio the other LHLabs products have sold for I expect a surprisingly low cost. Gavin and Larry were coy about pricing. I suspect you could buy a full surround system for less than the Krell.....


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, registered at the AVS forums, keep my eyes out for more info. Thanks


----------



## longbowbbs

doctorjazz said:


> OK, registered at the AVS forums, keep my eyes out for more info. Thanks


 
 Enjoy...Fun site. Completely different focus than Head-Fi.


----------



## chartwell85

Loving the hype on Keep.  I'll start posting as much info on it as possible once I'm cleared to release.


----------



## longbowbbs

chartwell85 said:


> Loving the hype on Keep.  I'll start posting as much info on it as possible once I'm cleared to release.


 

 Thanks Casey, I am looking for more outlets to spread the word. Interesting timing as I was close to pulling the trigger on the mAmps from W4S. I may need to "Keep" my options open...


----------



## PixelSquish

I have the geek out 720. I have to use it at full volume out with a pair of sennheiser hd 600's playing either google play music stuff at 320kbs MP3 or playing full on HD audio totally lossless.  i feel like i should have headroom on the volume. what could be the problem here?


----------



## walfredo

pixelsquish said:


> I have the geek out 720. I have to use it at full volume out with a pair of sennheiser hd 600's playing either google play music stuff at 320kbs MP3 or playing full on HD audio totally lossless.  i feel like i should have headroom on the volume. what could be the problem here?


 
  
 Are you lowering the volume on the digital side?


----------



## PixelSquish

walfredo said:


> Are you lowering the volume on the digital side?


 
 i have it full volume in foobar and full volume with the actual hardware volume buttons. it's just about right really, but i feel there should be some headroom there.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

LH Control Panel > Audio Output Master/Analogue at max?


----------



## mandrake50

pixelsquish said:


> I have the geek out 720. I have to use it at full volume out with a pair of sennheiser hd 600's playing either google play music stuff at 320kbs MP3 or playing full on HD audio totally lossless.  i feel like i should have headroom on the volume. what could be the problem here?




Sensitivity/ gain, and/or drive level.

I have noticed the same thing to get some of my headphones loud enough, with everything maxed out (Foobar and all volume levels in the GO drivers), I have had to resort to adding 4 or 5 DB boost in the replay gain settings in Foobar.

I use USB for my Meridian Explorer and Audio GD 11 (2014), among others, with the same computer for the source and can set the gain back to zero and easily have plenty of output.
To get around this, I find myself using the 47 ohm output on the GO to drive an amplification stage. Of course, this is not ideal for portable use.

So I am not sure if it is a function of the hardware or the drivers that seems to supply lower levels of output...


----------



## PixelSquish

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> LH Control Panel > Audio Output Master/Analogue at max?


 
 just checked that. everything is at max. i am using the 47 ohm output on this thing as well.


----------



## miceblue

pixelsquish said:


> m-i-c-k-e-y said:
> 
> 
> > LH Control Panel > Audio Output Master/Analogue at max?
> ...



That's really strange. My music is plenty loud for me with the Geek Out 450 driving the AKG K240 Monitor (669 Ω, 86 dB/mW sensitivity) with the 47 Ω output. I don't need to go anywhere near maximum volume.


----------



## zerodeefex

Uhhh, just fired up Google Music with my GO720 and HD600. I can easily make it painfully loud without maxing the volume control. Are you listening to super quiet tracks with a ton of dynamic range?


----------



## PixelSquish

zerodeefex said:


> Uhhh, just fired up Google Music with my GO720 and HD600. I can easily make it painfully loud without maxing the volume control. Are you listening to super quiet tracks with a ton of dynamic range?


 
 not really. listening to some Muse and some Naturally 7. this is my 2nd Geek Out 720. the first one sounded just like this on the .47 output but on the 47 output didn't work. both on laptop and desktop. now this replacement works fine out of the 47ohm output but it's basically the exact same volume as the previous was at .47 ohm. it's not like i need it much louder than this, but i shouldn't be maxxing out volume and be ok. i've put the device to it's highest volume. foobar is fully high. sound device is at it's highest volume too. i mean this is close to the perfect volume however i don't feel i should have to max out to be there.


----------



## PixelSquish

mandrake50 said:


> Sensitivity/ gain, and/or drive level.
> 
> I have noticed the same thing to get some of my headphones loud enough, with everything maxed out (Foobar and all volume levels in the GO drivers), I have had to resort to adding 4 or 5 DB boost in the replay gain settings in Foobar.
> 
> ...


 
 we are in the same boat here.


----------



## surja

Can someone help identifying which android phones are compatible with GO 1000 without any external power? I've read in this thread that Samsung Note 3 is compatible.... what are the others?


----------



## Gilly87

How's the bass on that combo? Is it close to what you've gotten with desktop setups?
  
 Quote:


zerodeefex said:


> Uhhh, just fired up Google Music with my GO720 and HD600. I can easily make it painfully loud without maxing the volume control. Are you listening to super quiet tracks with a ton of dynamic range?


----------



## zerodeefex

gilly87 said:


> How's the bass on that combo? Is it close to what you've gotten with desktop setups?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> ...


 
 It's good, I prefer the GO450, though. It's the most neutral of the bunch. The 720 leans a little towards a slightly bassier sound and the 1000 is a little bit further from that.
  
 In fact, right now I'm listening on my work rig: GO 450 > Schiit Vali > Code-X and it's just right.


----------



## georgelai57

My GO100's blue DSD light comes on even when I'm playing FLAC which is not the norm. My GO1000 doesn't which is the right way but as that is the subject of a support ticket where I might have to return  it to be fixed, I have not raised a support ticket for the GO100 as I can't be without two GOs at the same time. Plus I live in Singapore and it will take a while before LH does something about my GO1000


----------



## georgelai57

georgelai57 said:


> My GO100's blue DSD light comes on even when I'm playing FLAC which is not the norm. My GO1000 doesn't which is the right way but as that is the subject of a support ticket where I might have to return  it to be fixed, I have not raised a support ticket for the GO100 as I can't be without two GOs at the same time. Plus I live in Singapore and it will take a while before LH does something about my GO1000


 

 In case anyone is interested this is my support ticket issue for the GO1000 ...
 "My GO1000 is now cutting out most of the time even though on my Mac, all my playing software, iTunes or Audirvana+ or JRiver show that the track is playing. My GO100 is fine but not the 1000. I've tried using the two USB cable you provided, I've switched USB ports etc but it's definitely the 1000 and not the 100"
  
 And Carlos' reply - please try on different machine! So I did, and it doesn't change my point, and I replied. Sheesh!


----------



## mandrake50

georgelai57 said:


> In case anyone is interested this is my support ticket issue for the GO1000 ...
> "My GO1000 is now cutting out most of the time even though on my Mac, all my playing software, iTunes or Audirvana+ or JRiver show that the track is playing. My GO100 is fine but not the 1000. I've tried using the two USB cable you provided, I've switched USB ports etc but it's definitely the 1000 and not the 100"
> 
> And Carlos' reply - please try on different machine! So I did, and it doesn't change my point, and I replied. Sheesh!


 

 They are real hard to deal with in their support system. It seems that one gets three to five word replies... and they don't seem to read any of the history.
 Be very concise in your answers and quote the last thing that they asked. It took me something like 40 exchanges and well over two weeks just to get them to credit me for a duplicate perk and add another one.
  
 If you are patient, hopefully you will get what you need. Be prepared for some frustration in getting there though.


----------



## georgelai57

mandrake50 said:


> They are real hard to deal with in their support system. It seems that one gets three to five word replies... and they don't seem to read any of the history.
> Be very concise in your answers and quote the last thing that they asked. It took me something like 40 exchanges and well over two weeks just to get them to credit me for a duplicate perk and add another one.
> 
> If you are patient, hopefully you will get what you need. Be prepared for some frustration in getting there though.


 

 Tell me about it. At least you are in the same country.
  
 To be fair, they will respond but as you say, they don't read everything you say. They seem to just glance at it and the first thing they recognize, they seem to shoot from the hip. 
  
 They hear but they don't listen!


----------



## zilch0md

Well, I'm reading every word of what you guys are writing and the message is clear.  Thanks for sharing your experience.


----------



## Larry Ho

georgelai57 said:


> In case anyone is interested this is my support ticket issue for the GO1000 ...
> "My GO1000 is now cutting out most of the time even though on my Mac, all my playing software, iTunes or Audirvana+ or JRiver show that the track is playing. My GO100 is fine but not the 1000. I've tried using the two USB cable you provided, I've switched USB ports etc but it's definitely the 1000 and not the 100"
> 
> And Carlos' reply - please try on different machine! So I did, and it doesn't change my point, and I replied. Sheesh!


 

 If you are sure that blue LED is DSD... That means your computer is sending DoP music samples to Geek Out without any question. DoP is well developed and protected by special header in each package, it is one of million chances that DAC will recognize wrong DSD. So there must be some settings in software that convert all output to DoP?


----------



## georgelai57

larry ho said:


> If you are sure that blue LED is DSD... That means your computer is sending DoP music samples to Geek Out without any question. DoP is well developed and protected by special header in each package, it is one of million chances that DAC will recognize wrong DSD. So there must be some settings in software that convert all output to DoP?



Hello Larry,

I believe you were referring to my post #1364 regarding the blue light? Yeah that is for my GO100 and it happens with JRiver but not Audirvana+ 2.0. Unfortunately I can't get any technical help to help me resolve it. JRiver for Mac is quite complicated and there isn't a write up on the LH forums (unlike Junker's useful guide for A+) and the support pages for Jriver are pointless as the chance is unlikely there'll be a GO user there familiar enough. 

With my GO1000 which is the subject of the LH support ticket, the blue light functions properly for both softwares, just that the sound cuts out intermittently.


----------



## tfischer

> With my GO1000 which is the subject of the LH support ticket, the blue light functions properly for both softwares, just that the sound cuts out intermittently.


 
  
 Is your GO1000 plugged into headphones, or an amplifier? If it's plugged into an amp, perhaps you are just experiencing clipping when output goes above 2Vrms, which would be pretty easy for the GO1000 to do (but not the less powerful GO100). If this is the case, you just need to turn the volume down I would think...
  
 tom


----------



## Poimandres

I love the 100 however I am really enjoying the Glacier again.  I may have to put the 100 in the fs forum.


----------



## zerodeefex

poimandres said:


> I love the 100 however I am really enjoying the Glacier again.  I may have to put the 100 in the fs forum.




Sell the 100. Get a 450 and use it as a DAC to the Glacier. The DAC section decimates the Glacier's DAC but the Glacier is definitely a superior amp. This will maximize your sonic experience.


----------



## Lohb

Can the DAC section on this tend towards bright end....natural/neutral presentation ?


----------



## Poimandres

zerodeefex said:


> Sell the 100. Get a 450 and use it as a DAC to the Glacier. The DAC section decimates the Glacier's DAC but the Glacier is definitely a superior amp. This will maximize your sonic experience.


 

 Why sell the 100 to get a 450?  If I wanted to I would just use the 100's 47 ohm output to feed the Glacier.  I dont really see the difference am I missing something?  I really wouldn't say that the go's dac decimates the Glaciers built in dac either.  I am using the Glaciers DAC in self powered mode (the dac is powered by the Glacier's battery and not usb) and it sounds incredible.  I will try to do some ab'ing this weekend.


----------



## georgelai57

tfischer said:


> Is your GO1000 plugged into headphones, or an amplifier? If it's plugged into an amp, perhaps you are just experiencing clipping when output goes above 2Vrms, which would be pretty easy for the GO1000 to do (but not the less powerful GO100). If this is the case, you just need to turn the volume down I would think...
> 
> tom


 

 It's plugged into headphones. Even at volumes near minimum it cuts out.


----------



## Poimandres

The Glacier is also the best looking portable amp I have ever owned, I am glad that I was able to get one of the last two to ever be made before the last of the new glaciers were sold out.  I haven't listened to the GO since getting the Glacier however I really dont feel that I am missing anything dac wise.


----------



## zerodeefex

poimandres said:


> zerodeefex said:
> 
> 
> > Sell the 100. Get a 450 and use it as a DAC to the Glacier. The DAC section decimates the Glacier's DAC but the Glacier is definitely a superior amp. This will maximize your sonic experience.
> ...




The Beta GO 100 was too weak in output voltage to serve as a dedicated DAC.

I owned the Glacier for two years. The DAC fell far short of the ODAC in terms of resolution and tonal balance. The GEEK OUT 450 is a step up over the ODAC in clarity, instrument separation, and resolution.


----------



## Poimandres

Curious to see if the production GO 100 is weak in output voltage.  I would think that it should output 2v.....


----------



## Poimandres

Curious to know how you would rate the Glacier compared to the other portable amps that you own.


----------



## jonvply908

Quick question:

 Currently looking for a portable dac/amp without breaking the bank. I was wondering how good the Geek Outs are, in particular the 100 and the 450. The 450 price is better for me, but I will be buying a new dac/amp for the purpose of driving my custom IEMs (1964ears V6 Stage), and wanted to know if either of these are viable for long term use as I save up for something bigger.


----------



## Poimandres

It helps when I have the interconnect pushed all the way into the 100.  I thought I may have had issues with the 47 ohm port as I was hearing feedback in the left channel and barely any audio in the right.  I definitely need to get some sleep.  Anyway after solving that problem I have been going back and forth from the 47 ohm output feeding the Glacier to the Glacier as a dac/amp (again in self powered mode, have you used the Glacier in this manner?) and there are some songs where I feel the GO100 does better and there are others where I feel the Glacier does better.  I would be happy with either.  All listening was done with the latest foobar and wasapi.  Both set to 24 bit and on the 15th step on the glacier, no I didn't volume match and I believe the Glacier to be of slightly higher volume on the same step.


----------



## Poimandres

I had a 450 and it definitely has more hiss than the 100 for sensitive iems.


----------



## zerodeefex

poimandres said:


> Curious to see if the production GO 100 is weak in output voltage.  I would think that it should output 2v.....




GO100 = 1.1V, GO450 = 2V, GO1000 = 4V


----------



## zerodeefex

450 hiss is eliminated when used as a DAC only.

I've literally used the Glacier in every possible way. yes I used it in self powered mode.

The DAC section beat out the Leckerton but the ODAC > Leckerton was better than the ODAC > Glacier was better than Glacier alone in self powered mode was better than the Leckerton alone in self powered mode. Both Leckerton UHA 6S mkII (CEE TEE's) and UHA 760 with the ADA4627-1B. Tested headphones were:
 - UERM
 - JH16 FP
 - HD800
 - HD800 modded
 - HD650
 - LFF Paradox
 - TH900 (briefly)


----------



## miceblue

zerodeefex said:


> 450 hiss is eliminated when used as a DAC only.
> 
> I've literally used the Glacier in every possible way. yes I used it in self powered mode.
> 
> ...



How do you use the GO as a DAC only? Both outputs are amplified and the 47 Ω output has been reported to not have background hiss issues.


----------



## zerodeefex

The same way Anax and others use it as a DAC, pick the output you want, set to -3dB in software and go to town. Hiss is not a problem if you're outputting to an external amplifier. My hiss also went down when using UERMs straight out of the .47 ohm output with the firmware update. 

Also, note that Larry explicitly offered the 450 equivalent 2V to GO SE owners with the explicit recommendation that it was the best unit for DAC use to an external amplifier.

If you genuinely think that you're degrading the signal enough by going through the already existing output stage, you should test on a more resolving amp to see if you're genuinely diminishing your experience. I ran my DAC comparison on a 2A3 MKIV which was more resolving than my balanced Dynahi which was more resolving than the GSX MK2.

I love the GEEK OUT line, but the strength is by far in the DAC section of each unit. I'll be curious to see how the headphone and speaker amps turn out.


----------



## Poimandres

So as an amp only you feel that the leckerton > Glacier?


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

zerodeefex said:


> The same way Anax and others use it as a DAC, pick the output you want, set to -3dB in software and go to town. Hiss is not a problem if you're outputting to an external amplifier. My hiss also went down when using UERMs straight out of the .47 ohm output with the firmware update.
> 
> Also, note that Larry explicitly offered the 450 equivalent 2V to GO SE owners with the explicit recommendation that it was the best unit for DAC use to an external amplifier.
> 
> ...


 
 Yes the FW update definite improve on using a dedicated amp because prior to it using the PanAm there was a bit of noise, but then the FW update the noise was completely gone not to mention the GO1000 sounded better that ever.


----------



## zerodeefex

poimandres said:


> So as an amp only you feel that the leckerton > Glacier?




Depends on your headphones. With the JH16s, the glacier was my favorite due to the slightly better controlled bass. For HD800 and UERM, the Leckerton was preferred due to resolution and superior mids and treble. 

The glacier sounds better at higher volumes than lower volumes. I suspect its the digital pot. Very similar to the issue I had with the UHA 760 vs the analog pot in the 6S MKII.


----------



## eliwankenobi

zerodeefex said:


> GO100 = 1.1V, GO450 = 2V, GO1000 = 4V




Actually. GO450 is 2.65 volts at 0db


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

Just letting anyone know that may be interested in the GeekOut 1000 I have a lightly used one, that is only a couple months old that I am going to be putting up for sale. For around 240$ plus shipping.


----------



## sling5s

I don't know how the Geek Out 1000 sounds but the Geek Out 450 is doing a pretty good job at driving the LCD-2F.  The Fazor makes it much easier to drive.


----------



## cocolinho

I don't know how the 450 sounds, but the 1000 drives with authority all headphones I own... very nice little product.
 I'm now thinking to add Schiit Wyrd in the loop.


----------



## junker

cocolinho said:


> I don't know how the 450 sounds, but the 1000 drives with authority all headphones I own... very nice little product.
> I'm now thinking to add Schiit Wyrd in the loop.


 

 Would love to hear more about this if you do it!


----------



## jcwc

junker said:


> Would love to hear more about this if you do it!


 
  
 A few people have added the Wyrd to the GO (including myself). What I've found - darker background, better separation, a smoother sound, better definition. For $99 the Wyrd was money well spent for me.


----------



## sweetplastic

My GO 450 has been dead-silent with all the headphones I have tried it with (DT770 32 LE, PFE112, SH215), no hint of hiss or background noise whatsoever.
 My uneducated here is that it might be highly dependent on the USB connection, and whether it is "natively" noisy or not. If it is noisy indead, then something like the Wyrd makes sense.


----------



## gikigill

Same with Geek 1000 here, sone PCs have noise and some are perfectly black. Fantastic with literally every earphone
  
 and made me lose interest in the Geek 100 for my IEMs.


----------



## Larry Ho

gikigill said:


> Same with Geek 1000 here, sone PCs have noise and some are perfectly black. Fantastic with literally every earphone
> 
> and made me lose interest in the Geek 100 for my IEMs.


 

 You guys are right. Even the location of USB port will affect the inherited noise of its ground. 
  
 So this part is really system depend. If your computer's USB ground/5V is noisy, adding some filter/active power design in between will be better for sure.
  
 Larry


----------



## cat6man

@Larry Ho

Hi Larry

The geekout currently does not work with the UAPP that many of us use on android devices. Many DAC work with uapp but the developer has a go450 and while dozens of DACs work, the GO does not.

Note that this is not the generic android usb audio problem.
This is OTG capable devices not handshaking properly with the GO.
Even with android lollipop imminent, it is reported to only support 16/44 so many of us will still need UAPP to play higher rez files to our GOs.

The developer is Davey Wentzler (info@audio-evolution.com).
Can you work with him please to resolve this?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## germay0653

cat6man said:


> @Larry Ho
> 
> Hi Larry
> 
> ...


 

 Member M.I.C.K.E.Y uses UAPP successfully with a Samsung Note 3 out to a GO.  I don't believe it's the GO, it's more probably the particular android device that seems to be giving everyone problems.  I had a Galaxy 4 and couldn't get it to work either.
  
 Mr. M.I.C.K.E.Y would you care to respond tho this thread?


----------



## cat6man

I don't believe that is correct.
As I stated, this is NOT the generic USB audio with android.
The Samsung you note has made changes to the USB code to support audio, but that is phone/device specific.

The issue I bring up is the lack of compatibility with OTG (not native USB). mickey has already responded to this issue and may also be also misinterpreting my issue I understand that native android USB is not supporting (today) USB audio. I also understand that some companies have modified the android code to better support USB audio. Neither is the issue here as UAPP is not using the android USB code.

This is related to OTG and the UAPP app which is a completely different issue. Android KitKat does not support USB audio but with OTG and UAPP, it works with dozens of USB DACs.
I hope Larry can add the GO to that long list


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Months back (around May) I asked Dave because my Note 3 could not work with my GO in UAPP.

Dave told me that he has also a GO unit and would like to collaborate with Larry to work with it.

Have told Larry and he's ok with it (working with Dave). And have told Dave.

And that was it. Haven't asked them if it has gone thru.

Because subsequent updates of UAPP and Android, I was able to use my GO natively (w/o UAPP) on my Note 3, Note 10.1 (2014) and Tab S 8.4 LTE.

Thinking they are doing their part.


----------



## germay0653

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Months back (around May) I asked Dave because my Note 3 could not work with my GO in UAPP.
> 
> Dave told me that he has also a GO unit and would like to collaborate with Larry to work with it.
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks Michael!


----------



## zilch0md

Hey m-i-c-k-e-y!
  
  
 Quote:


m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> I know one from Elijah Audio but its costly (think its $125)
> 
> Link: https://www.facebook.com/ElijahAudio?ref=stream
> 
> And taping those 5V pin do have significant sonic benefits.


 
  
 Do you know what battery pack that is in that photo of the Elija Audio cable (the small white box) ?
  
 Thanks,
  
 Mike


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Mike,
  
 Practically don't know. But there's a lot in Amazon. To cite a few:
  
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KEGYXS0?psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Miniboost-Ultra-Compact-Portable-Smartphones-playstation-vita/dp/B00HMVPH5S/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?
http://www.amazon.com/Miniboost-Ultra-Compact-Portable-Smartphones-playstation-vita/dp/B00HMVPH5S/ref=sr_1_8?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1414938189&sr=1-8
http://www.amazon.com/Lipstick-Universal-Blackberry-Sensation-Thunderbolt/dp/B00HSIOHEC/ref=sr_1_1?
  
 Michael


----------



## cat6man

Thanks mickey
My understanding is that Dave and Larry may intend to work this but have not yet had time to do so.
I hope they can get to it!




m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Months back (around May) I asked Dave because my Note 3 could not work with my GO in UAPP.
> 
> Dave told me that he has also a GO unit and would like to collaborate with Larry to work with it.
> 
> ...


----------



## zilch0md

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Mike,
> 
> Practically don't know. But there's a lot in Amazon. To cite a few:
> 
> ...


 
  
 Yeah, those are about the same size.  Thanks!


----------



## jahmed1

Hi, I am a huge music lover, but I am totally totally illiterate about all the technical stuff which is talked anywhere where audiophiles talk. Pardon me for that. I have tried reading a lot on the internet, but 90% of the stuff goes over my head, as I was not a science student in school or college too. I have an HTC One M8 right now, and have ordered a Geek Out 450 as my first venture into DAC/Amp category. I own ATH-M50.
  
 Can someone try to tell me if Geek Out 450 will work with my M8 on Sense 6? I know the discussion about it being compatible with android or not has been going on a lot, and I have tried reading it too, but I could not understand the conversations. I understand the Geek Out 1000 does not work, due to it requiring power, but is it the same with 450? I have compiled some questions (including the one I just asked), it would be a great pleasure if someone could answer them. Here are my questions:
  
 - Can someone explain to me in simple words if I will be able to use Geek Out 450 on M8 with Sense 6?
 - I also intend to jump to GPE edition Lollipop as soon as it arrives, should I expect the Geek Out 450 to work on stock android Lollipop too?
 - To get the best results, I should keep the volume from mobile/PC at full, and control it through the DAC, right?
 - Is a USB OTG given with the USB DAC? If no, should I look for a special quality of OTG cables, or any will work?
  
 Thank you for taking time to read


----------



## WhiskeyJacks

jahmed1 said:


> Hi, I am a huge music lover, but I am totally totally illiterate about all the technical stuff which is talked anywhere where audiophiles talk. Pardon me for that. I have tried reading a lot on the internet, but 90% of the stuff goes over my head, as I was not a science student in school or college too. I have an HTC One M8 right now, and have ordered a Geek Out 450 as my first venture into DAC/Amp category. I own ATH-M50.
> 
> Can someone try to tell me if Geek Out 450 will work with my M8 on Sense 6? I know the discussion about it being compatible with android or not has been going on a lot, and I have tried reading it too, but I could not understand the conversations. I understand the Geek Out 1000 does not work, due to it requiring power, but is it the same with 450? I have compiled some questions (including the one I just asked), it would be a great pleasure if someone could answer them. Here are my questions:
> 
> ...


 
 As far as the USB OTG. you get a little cable extension that you could use with your laptop, but this also depends on what you are planning on using the GO450, any OTG cable should be fine as long as the device supports the drivers. Also, with the regards to the volume after the FW update we  no longer update volume from the physical DAC(in case that is what you mean) You adjust volume via your GO1000 software or in this case the GO450. I hope this helps. you can also use the media and or music program you are using, I personally used Media Monkey, Foobar, and Spotify.


----------



## cat6man

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Months back (around May) I asked Dave because my Note 3 could not work with my GO in UAPP.
> 
> Dave told me that he has also a GO unit and would like to collaborate with Larry to work with it.
> 
> ...


 
  
@Larry Ho
 @Davey Wentzler
  
 November 15 is the fall NYC head-fi meet in Stamford, CT.
 If you guys can get the GeekOut to work with UAPP by then, I will center my demo table around Nexus7/UAPP/GeekOut, if not I'll have to go with the Meridian explorer (like last year).


----------



## Baycode

Finally received my GO720 yesterday and upgraded the firmware (also downloaded the latest driver). So far I am really enjoying it !  Great sounding little DAC/AMP.


----------



## jahmed1

I see. Thanks a lot for the reply! It cleared up most of the things. Now, just the last question: should I expect the 450 DAC to work with my HTC M8 or not? Is the 1000 the only one not working with Android (because it requires a lot of power)?
 Thank you for the reply again


----------



## peter123

jahmed1 said:


> I see. Thanks a lot for the reply! It cleared up most of the things. Now, just the last question: should I expect the 450 DAC to work with my HTC M8 or not? Is the 1000 the only one not working with Android (because it requires a lot of power)?
> Thank you for the reply again




You should expect it not to work. Even if they eventually makes it work it is likely that all versions except for maybe the go100 will need external power to work properly.


----------



## miceblue

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Geek Out has this bit perfect output feature. It is activated when volume is placed to 0db. (That is why -1db is louder than 0db).
> 
> Use this when using Geek Out as line out on 47ohm output socket.



Is this still true? With the current firmware installed, 0 dB sounds louder than -1 dB to me.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

You're talking about the Master Volume in the LH Control Panel? ^_^


----------



## miceblue

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> You're talking about the Master Volume in the LH Control Panel? ^_^



That and through Mac OS's volume controls (which changes the master volume settings like in the LH Control Panel).

Maybe the old drivers were like that with the -1 dB volume being louder than 0 dB?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Hmmm... Because on my Windoze machine, from 0db to -1db have significant volume differences (using the latest firmware/driver).

The changelog says nothing about changing its bitperfect behavior. Maybe due to the new volume implementation.

For the record Larry had said nothing said about volume behavior changes when going bitperfect.

He merely stated that at 0db Geek Out will have a Bitperfect bypass.


----------



## mandrake50

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Hmmm... Because on my Windoze machine, from 0db to -1db have significant volume differences (using the latest firmware/driver).
> 
> For the record Larry had said nothing said about volume behavior changes when going bitperfect.
> 
> He merely stated that at 0db Geek Out will have a Bitperfect bypass.




He never said anything about a "bypass". I posted his quote on this previously here. There is no switching to bit perfect mode. There is no "going bit perfect", it is not a mode, it is simply a result.
Using a digital volume control manipulates the bits to change the output level. At 0 dB no bits are changed due to the volume control.
So, in theory, if bits are not manipulated anywhere else between the source file and the GO, and you apply no changes by using the GO volume control,
you get bits to the DAC that are the same as what you put in, ... each bit is the same as it was in the source, or a bit perfect.


BTW, if the digital volume control is working, there should be an increase in level between -1 and 0. The problem that many reported was that the level went down significantly with the previous drivers and firmware. Now it goes up, as it should, but the last step seems to me to be a bit larger than the preceding volume steps.


----------



## JoeDoe

Just got my hands on a red 1000 and after a short issue with the usb extender, I'm glad to say that this guy is impressive! I've had the Dragonfly and the Hifimediy U2 in the past and so far the 1000 bests both. Initial sound impressions are clean with a touch of tubey warmth. Loving how this guy pairs with the SennGrados.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Hoping you updated the firmware. You loose the volume control on the buttons and 3D, but; you gain better SQ and TCM and FRM filters.

How does it scale with your Amps?


----------



## chartwell85

What do you guys think about the new firmware? Anyone reverted back to the original or are we all happy with the new offerings?


----------



## doctorjazz

Agree on the new firmware, wouldn't go back.


----------



## longbowbbs

doctorjazz said:


> Agree on the new firmware, wouldn't go back.


 
 +1....


----------



## pearljam50000

How do i know which filter is on?


----------



## FlySweep

Chain tonight:
  
 TIDAL (lossless streaming) .. Geek Out 1000 (FRM filter) .. [47 ohm output] .. HD 650 (w/ Furutech/ADL AHD-35 Senn cable).
  
 This is just a phenomenal rig.  The 47 ohm output combined with the FRM filter seems to offer a special kind of synergy with the HD 650.  I like the TCM filter when I'm using the GO as a DAC or when I need a clean, transparent-leaning sound; the FRM filter serves a hint more warmth and euphony through the lower mids and a dash of 'slickness' to the treble.  The TCM is the more 'solid state' sounding of the two filters.. the FRM is more tube like.. more precisely, more 'hybrid-tube' like, generally speaking.  The gentle bloom through the lower mids and treble "ripple" is something my UERM & HD650 seems to welcome.
  
 Regardless of the filter, the GO1000 is wonderful.. it mostly serves DAC duty these days, so I've thought about putting it up for trade/sale so I can get a GO450 (which outputs ~2V.. closer to Redbook standard).. but every time I use the GO with my headphones, I'm not sure I can dare to part with it.


----------



## Larry Ho

Hi, there
  
 In version 1.0 firmware, when you set to -0dB. I by-pass the digital volume control totally. And -1dB actually will make the over all volume a little bit higher than -0db because digital volume control start to kick in.
  
 In version 1.5 firmware, same thing here, -0db will give you the 'by-pass' of DVC. And I fine tuned the digital volume control a bit, so -1dB's volume is bit lower. Also, when you set -0dB at master volume but change the dB in individual channel, actually it will turn on Geek Out DAC's 'channel balance' feature. This is new in 1V5 too.
  
 I love to use TCM in my home audio system. With femto clock and precise DPLL control in ESS chip, sound is even better.
  
 Enjoy!
  
 Larry


----------



## DannyBai

Thanks Larry!


----------



## miceblue

larry ho said:


> Hi, there
> 
> In version 1.0 firmware, when you set to -0dB. I by-pass the digital volume control totally. And -1dB actually will make the over all volume a little bit higher than -0db because digital volume control start to kick in.
> 
> ...



Cool. Thanks for chiming in on that Larry! That helps clear some things up.


----------



## If6was9

Hello everyone,
 I want to buy a DAC\Amp for use home with PC and car with smartphone. is it possible use the Geeko Out 1000 (with Sony Xperia Z3), as a portable device, to use in car audio system connected via aux 3,5?
  
 or perhaps need some other accessory ?
  
 Thanks to all
  
  
 P.S.
Sorry for my bad English


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I had a Sony Xperia Z and had problems with Geek Out 1000. 

My M2tech Hiface DAC was working though. 

Don't know with Z3.


----------



## If6was9

Ok,
 but is it possible use the Geeko Out 1000 with a smartphone as a portable device, to use in car audio system,
 for use exclusively with speakers (no headphone) connected via aux 3,5 and cigarette lighter (for recharging) in car audio system?
  
 Thanks


----------



## zilch0md

if6was9 said:


> Ok,
> but is it possible use the Geeko Out 1000 with a smartphone as a portable device, to use in car audio system,
> for use exclusively with speakers (no headphone) connected via aux 3,5 and cigarette lighter (for recharging) in car audio system?
> 
> Thanks


 
  
 Hi,
  
 The Geek Outs all have two 3,5mm jacks.
  
 One of the jacks is a 47-Ohm Line Out - for connection to your car radio's Aux input.
  
 Your biggest problem is that your Sony Xperia Z3 cannot supply the Geek Out with the 5V power it needs to operate.
  
 So you would have to provide 5V power to your Geek Out by using a USB Y cable, like this (or its equivalent) ...
  








  
 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812161003
  
  
 And a 12V -to- 5V cigarette lighter power adapter, that can produce at least 1.0 Amps at 5V, like this (or its equivalent)...
  




  
 http://www.amazon.com/Omni-Smart-Charger-3-1Amp-15-5W/dp/B00KH8RCLU
  
  
 You would plug the Geek Out into the female USB A connector of the Y-Cable, then attach the Xperia Z3 and the power source to the two male USB A connectors.
  
*Proceed at your own risk - I haven't tested any of this. *
  
 Personally, I would avoid using your car as a power source - it's going to be noisy.  
  
 I would power the Geek Out with a portable 5V battery pack, instead - like this (or its equivalent)...
  




  
 http://www.amazon.com/15000mAh-Portable-Ultra-High-External-lightning/dp/B00D5VAYRU
  
 Again, proceed at your own risk.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Mike


----------



## ZzBOG

Hi guys, just learned about GO1000. I understand correctly - it would be a perfect companion for LCD-3 or HD800 if I am after a USB-powered (critical requirement) solution?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

The creator/designer has HD-800 and LCD-X to tune for it. If you read the first posts the reviewer has LCD-3/HD-800.


----------



## ZzBOG

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> The creator/designer has HD-800 and LCD-X to tune for it. If you read the first posts the reviewer has LCD-3/HD-800.


 
 Thanks! I guess I just saved $400 by not buying CypherLabs 720 thingie.


----------



## NinjaHamster

zzbog said:


> Thanks! I guess I just saved $400 by not buying CypherLabs 720 thingie.




I've even found the Audeze LCD-2.2's to sound great via the Geek Out 450!


----------



## doctorjazz

flysweep said:


> Chain tonight:
> 
> TIDAL (lossless streaming) .. Geek Out 1000 (FRM filter) .. [47 ohm output] .. HD 650 (w/ Furutech/ADL AHD-35 Senn cable).
> 
> ...




I've been listening to TIDAL, I have a basic question....how do you get TIDAL into my GO SE? Do I listen through JRIVER? TThat's how I listen to music on my hard drive, music I stream doesn't go through the Geek, but straight to my speakers.


----------



## germay0653

doctorjazz said:


> I've been listening to TIDAL, I have a basic question....how do you get TIDAL into my GO SE? Do I listen through JRIVER? TThat's how I listen to music on my hard drive, music I stream doesn't go through the Geek, but straight to my speakers.


 

 What version of JRiver are you using?  The newer releases come with a WDM driver that allows you to route a stream through JRiver to your GO SE or you just need to make the LH Labs output device the default in the Control Panel --> Sound --> Manage Audio Devices


----------



## miceblue

doctorjazz said:


> I've been listening to TIDAL, I have a basic question....how do you get TIDAL into my GO SE? Do I listen through JRIVER? TThat's how I listen to music on my hard drive, music I stream doesn't go through the Geek, but straight to my speakers.



You can change the playback device in Tidal's settings.


----------



## doctorjazz

Cool, I didn't see that in settings. I have JRIVER19...actually paid for20, but haven't gotten around to upgrading it on my PC


----------



## kawaivpc1

Does this unit work well with HTC Desire 816 cell phone??


----------



## gyx11

This might be somewhat of a strange pairing, but I tried the Geek Out 450 in FRM mode paired with an Apex Glacier which I managed to get my hands on a for a while, and the pairing was really impressive.

 The synergy was extremely good, and the sound out of my UE10Pros (a rather neutral CIEM) was very engaging. It retains the 'tubey' signature and dynamic edge of the Geek Out 450, while adding in the superb transients and expansive soundstage of the Glacier. I'm not sure how to describe it better, but the GO has a rather thick note presentation, which brings forth texture and instrument timbre nicely. The Glacier by itself is very sharp and fast sounding, with minimal decay, and what many term as excellent PRaT. With these two characteristics combined, the synergy is really really good.
  
 This pairing works exceptionally well with EDM, rock, or any fast and heavy genres, but it might be a little too edgy for more placid genres such as classical or house music. Perhaps GO owners with the Glacier might want to give this pairing a shot.
  
 The GO pairs better with the Glacier than either the O2 (doesn't really add anything) or the Portaphile 627 (a bit too slow and blunt) for my liking.
  
 Anyway, that's just my two cents. YMMV. Cheers!


----------



## Gilly87

News for others like myself who are on the fence about the Geek Out stuff: HRT has a new product on the way, supposedly in the same vein as this and the microstreamer, that packs a bit more of a punch power-wise...I love my microstreamer for IEMs and my DT770 32s, so personally I'm holding off until I see what they've got cooking...


----------



## thegunner100

I'm looking to trade my GO 1000 for a 450 if anyone is interested. Please PM me!


----------



## gyx11

I'm sadly gonna have to part with the Apex Glacier soon, but here's some pics of the GO450 + Glacier combo while I still have it with me. I attached the two of them together using some 3M dual lock. Put some rubber feet on the bottom of the glacier to prevent additional scratching. And to my surprise, the Glacier + GO450 fits nicely into the neoprene case snugly, with enough room in the slot in compartment to put in the USB extender and 3.5mm interconnect as well. This would be a pretty awesome lightweight and low profile pseudo-desktop setup. What's even better is you can simply peel off the Glacier to use as a portable DAC/Amp by itself and reattach it to the GO450 whenever you return. Neat!


----------



## Lohb

Anyone got the GO720 and 1000 ? Do you think 720 not enough for LCD-2 and modded Fostex T50RP ?


----------



## NinjaHamster

The Go450 seems to pwer my LCD2.2's just fine. The Go1000 might be better (never tried it), but the 450 is more than adequate.


----------



## rlawli

Off Topic but related and worth a look -- HIFIMAN 2014 Black Friday Sale - RE-600 & 600S IEMs $199.
  
 http://www.head-direct.com/Products/?act=detail&id=157
 http://www.head-direct.com/Products/?act=detail&id=174


----------



## cat6man

Lollipop has arrived chez moi.
Geekout now works with android, both with and without UAPP.


----------



## kawaivpc1

cat6man said:


> Lollipop has arrived chez moi.
> Geekout now works with android, both with and without UAPP.




Have you tested a lollipop Android cellphone with Geek Out 1000?
If it worked, can you tell us what cellphone you're using??
I'd love to be able to use geek out with a cellphone. My current cellphone is HTC Desire 816.


----------



## cat6man

nexus 7 tablet.


----------



## bhazard

Just tested the GO1000 on my Oneplus One with a 5.0 alpha build. WORKS! WITHOUT UAPP!

First time it ever worked on android, and it sounds awesome!

No external battery needed either! Incredibly awesome.

It almost eliminates the need for a Geek Stream, so hopefully they bump up the SQ for that model.


----------



## bhazard

Scratch that, it works for awhile, but the LEDs dim and eventually error after 10 min or so with no y split attached battery.

The GO450 and 100 might not have this issue.


----------



## kawaivpc1

cat6man said:


> nexus 7 tablet.




Cool. I'm thinking about buying that tablet!
Does it work well without an external battery? 
How many hours of music can it play with Geek Out??
I think it comes with Android 4.0. Do you have to update it to 5.0 manually?


----------



## cat6man

kawaivpc1 said:


> Cool. I'm thinking about buying that tablet!
> Does it work well without an external battery?
> How many hours of music can it play with Geek Out??
> I think it comes with Android 4.0. Do you have to update it to 5.0 manually?


 
  
 i use an external battery, it mgiht work without it
 no idea how long battery or nexus lasts.........only used on planes when i travel 
 OTA update to 5.0 is available now for most nexus 7, i got mine monday
  
 i'm getting an lg G2 smartphone tomorrow but it won't have lollipop on it, and i'll be at verizon's mercy as to when that finally happens.


----------



## kawaivpc1

cat6man said:


> i use an external battery, it mgiht work without it
> no idea how long battery or nexus lasts.........only used on planes when i travel
> OTA update to 5.0 is available now for most nexus 7, i got mine monday
> 
> i'm getting an lg G2 smartphone tomorrow but it won't have lollipop on it, and i'll be at verizon's mercy as to when that finally happens.





Thanks for your reply. 
I think Nexus tablet's 32GB internal storage is too small for music listening.
I think I will pair that combo with Lacie fuel 2TB or Seagate wireless plus 2tb.
Are you using a similar setup???
How can you expand memory of nexus tablet??
Also, what kind of cable are you using for Geek Out and battery?? Can you give me a link?

Good to know. My current HTC Desire 816 with Android 4.4 doesn't work well with USB Audio.
I'm going to buy HTC M9 which comes with 128gb internal storage+ microsd slot + lollipop. This one will support max 256gb. It's coming during this December!!!


----------



## cat6man

kawaivpc1 said:


> Thanks for your reply.
> I think Nexus tablet's 32GB internal storage is too small for music listening.
> I think I will pair that combo with Lacie fuel 2TB or Seagate wireless plus 2tb.
> Are you using a similar setup???
> ...


 
  
 it is not my primary music player, so memory is not a critical limitation.
 in the car i have a 2TB drive and squeezeplug running on an OdroidU3 (raspberry pi on steriods), geekout dac into car stereo aux in.
 geekout works fine with linux
  
 cable is usb OTG Y cable (google it, don't have link)


----------



## CrapInMySoul

Which Geek Out for Sennheiser HD600 please ?  450 or 1000 ??


----------



## JoeDoe

crapinmysoul said:


> Which Geek Out for Sennheiser HD600 please ?  450 or 1000 ??


 

 1000


----------



## CrapInMySoul

joedoe said:


> 1000


 
 Thanks and why ???


----------



## JoeDoe

crapinmysoul said:


> Thanks and why ???


 

 More powerful - the 600s will love the extra juice. And I find the 1000 to have the best sound of any iteration.


----------



## CrapInMySoul

Thank you very much.


----------



## pearljam50000

Sorry for the off topic, but i'm buying some active studio monitors soon, they have an XLR input and unbalanced RCA, i want to connect the GeekOut to the Monitors,
 Which cable should i get?
 3.5mm to XLRor 3.5mm to RCA or something else?
 I only care about the SQ of course.
 Thanks!


----------



## junker

IMO use your favorite RCA cable of sufficient length with a female RCA phono to 1/8" mini jack adapter:
  
 http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10429&cs_id=1042902&p_id=7189&seq=1&format=2
  
 http://www.amazon.com/Audioquest-3-5mm-Mini-Plug-to-2-RCA-Adapter-Hard/dp/B003VJX2F2/


----------



## pearljam50000

Is it better than connecting the cables directly from the Geek to the monitors without a connector?
 Thanks.


----------



## junker

It depends... you won't find as much selection in 3.5mm mini <-> RCA cables. Mostly cheap mobile audio stuff. There are a few good ones out there from Oyaide, Kimber, etc.
  
 Personally, I'd rather have flexibility in offerings and getting the correct length with better shielding etc. And you can always use an RCA-RCA cable somewhere else if need be. It's going to be a personal decision...


----------



## pearljam50000

Thanks


----------



## germay0653

Audioquest makes some nice 3.5mm to RCA cables.


----------



## jcwc

pearljam50000 said:


> Is it better than connecting the cables directly from the Geek to the monitors without a connector?
> Thanks.


 
  
 Are you able to connect without a connector? If not, then you still have to choose between XLR and RCA.


----------



## pearljam50000

I'm able to connect without a connector, my only worry is the connector will degrade the sound, opposed to connecting directly with a cable, but i'm not sure.


----------



## Larry Ho

germay0653 said:


> Audioquest makes some nice 3.5mm to RCA cables.


 

 I recently test a nice pair of Kimber Cable 3.5mm to RCA... It sounds very very nice.
  
 Still burn-in now.


----------



## pearljam50000

What's the closest setting on the geekout to a line out?


----------



## MikeyFresh

pearljam50000 said:


> What's the closest setting on the geekout to a line out?


 

 47 Ohm output, volume at maximum.


----------



## junker

larry ho said:


> I recently test a nice pair of Kimber Cable 3.5mm to RCA... It sounds very very nice.
> 
> Still burn-in now.


 

 Unshielded. Nice but unshielded. Had the Cu version before.


----------



## cat6man

mikeyfresh said:


> 47 Ohm output, volume at maximum.


 
  
 exactly how i use it in my car music server, line out to car stereo aux in.
  
 geekout running off of squeezeplug, running on ubuntu


----------



## TonySunshine

hey guys quick question. I just got my Go 100 IEM yesterday. Are the volume/filter buttons supposed to be loose and rattle-y?


----------



## kostaszag

Yes


----------



## TheBoss

Any Sony MDR MA900 headphone owners here?
  
 Is Geek Out 1000 an overkill for a headphone with nominal impedance of just 12 ohm like the Sony MDR MA900?


----------



## Levanter

Anyone with a Geek LPS and Schiit Wyrd? 
 Very interested to hear if there's any differences between both when paired with Geek Out considering the price differences,.


----------



## Lohb

Anyone tried the GO1000 with Alpha Prime ?


----------



## cocolinho

levanter said:


> Anyone with a Geek LPS and Schiit Wyrd?
> Very interested to hear if there's any differences between both when paired with Geek Out considering the price differences,.


 
  
 Very interested as well but I think the performance will highly depend on the quality of your USB connection.
  
  
 Otherwise, I was very satisfied with my combo GO1K+HD700 and I'm still surprised to hear how my GO1K drives my new HD800 with authority...
 I'll buy a stronger amp to pair with my HD800 to see how big is the difference but let me say that if I hear any good improvement, I'll be really satisfied by my new purchase!
  
 This GO is incredible.


----------



## Levanter

cocolinho said:


> Very interested as well but I think the performance will highly depend on the quality of your USB connection.
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I was very satisfied with my combo GO1K+HD700 and I'm still surprised to hear how my GO1K drives my new HD800 with authority...
> ...




Will be using a Pulse X with their Lightspeed 2G USB cable, so I hope that area is covered. As I'm curious to see how much of a difference the LPS is to the much cheaper Schiit Wyrd, the Geek Out would be a great indicator.


----------



## Larry Ho

lohb said:


> Anyone tried the GO1000 with Alpha Prime ?


 

 Me!  That is a great headphone.


----------



## Lohb

larry ho said:


> Me!  That is a great headphone.


 

 How about the treble region ? How did that sound with the GO1K ?


----------



## atsq17

larry ho said:


> Me!  That is a great headphone.


 
  
 Hi Larry,
  
 I was considering getting the Alpha Prime with balanced connection for my Geek Pulse XFi as an end-game setup. What are your thoughts on this combo? I was considering the Hifiman HE560 but I am expecting the Primes to sound better.


----------



## cat6man

atsq17 said:


> Hi Larry,
> 
> I was considering getting the Alpha Prime with balanced connection for my Geek Pulse XFi as an end-game setup. What are your thoughts on this combo? I was considering the Hifiman HE560 but I am expecting the Primes to sound better.


 
  
 how about a balanced output GeekOut100 for iem ????


----------



## Lohb

An RSA Kobiconn type connector on a Go1000 balanced option would be great.


----------



## atsq17

cat6man said:


> how about a balanced output GeekOut100 for iem ????


 
  
 I already have my Neutrik 4 pin XLR to Kobiconn ALO/RSA converter at home waiting for the Geek Pulse X Fi.


----------



## doctorjazz

I 
I was checking this thread, to see if anyone has received any version of the Pulse yet, and if there are any impressions if someone did. Here's my issue (if it sounds confused, that's about right smily_headphones1.gif )
I was in for the Pulse when it first was offered, and went for all the upgrades, Xfi, LPS4. Then the Tube was offered, and I jumped again (someone once said "look before you leap", but the offers were for such small #s of units initially, and went so quickly, seemed appealing, and I went for it). Now, it really is more of a rack/stereo unit. What I started out looking for was something for my harder to drive headphones (specifically, the Hifiman 560 and the Senn 650), to use with my computer in my guest room, so after the upgrade, I was back to not having such a unit. Now, the same Geek gear is more expensive (about $2000 to buy the same system I had ordered initially). (to make matters more complicated, I have the GO 1K and the GO Special Edition; when I balked on buying another Pulse Xfi/LPS4, I got a Massdrop Centrance M8 XL4. which has gotten some stellar reviews (Massdrop can take a while, like Light Harmonic, until you actually get a unit). (I also have the Ray Samuels HR-2 amp hanging around)
So, being the lunatic that I am, I'm still lusting after the Pulse. After all, until the amp, there wasn't an offer they made I didn't go for, all sounded great.
So, what does this have to do with the price of tubes? Well, I didn't know if anyone actually has heard the Pulse, and had impressions. I was also curious about if anyone had comparison listening to the Pulse, Pulse X, and Pulse XFi (maybe, though it goes against my nature, the basic Pulse might be enough for my needs). I'm guessing no one knows about the higher Pulses yet, but if anyone did, I was interested in the comparison.
To make life even more interesting (or confuslng), there is now the option, if one wishes, to cancel the Soul, and get the Pulse Xfi, LPS4, and the Tube buffer instead, another crazy making option.
So, there's my tale of woe (talk about 1st world problems...), it is so convoluted, I wouldn't be surprised if no one has anything to say about it, but I'd be interested in feedback/opinions (aside from see a good therapist) anyone has on the matter.
Thanks


----------



## atsq17

doctorjazz said:


> I
> I was checking this thread, to see if anyone has received any version of the Pulse yet, and if there are any impressions if someone did. Here's my issue (if it sounds confused, that's about right smily_headphones1.gif )
> I was in for the Pulse when it first was offered, and went for all the upgrades, Xfi, LPS4. Then the Tube was offered, and I jumped again (someone once said "look before you leap", but the offers were for such small #s of units initially, and went so quickly, seemed appealing, and I went for it). Now, it really is more of a rack/stereo unit. What I started out looking for was something for my harder to drive headphones (specifically, the Hifiman 560 and the Senn 650), to use with my computer in my guest room, so after the upgrade, I was back to not having such a unit. Now, the same Geek gear is more expensive (about $2000 to buy the same system I had ordered initially). (to make matters more complicated, I have the GO 1K and the GO Special Edition; when I balked on buying another Pulse Xfi/LPS4, I got a Massdrop Centrance M8 XL4. which has gotten some stellar reviews (Massdrop can take a while, like Light Harmonic, until you actually get a unit). (I also have the Ray Samuels HR-2 amp hanging around)
> So, being the lunatic that I am, I'm still lusting after the Pulse. After all, until the amp, there wasn't an offer they made I didn't go for, all sounded great.
> ...


 
  
 Perhaps you could give us a brief comparison between the GO1K and GO SE.


----------



## doctorjazz

Ok. Really late here, though, should have been asleep a long time ago. I'll pull them out and compare next say or 2.


----------



## atsq17

Looking forward to it!


----------



## longbowbbs

doctorjazz said:


> I
> I was checking this thread, to see if anyone has received any version of the Pulse yet, and if there are any impressions if someone did. Here's my issue (if it sounds confused, that's about right smily_headphones1.gif )
> I was in for the Pulse when it first was offered, and went for all the upgrades, Xfi, LPS4. Then the Tube was offered, and I jumped again (someone once said "look before you leap", but the offers were for such small #s of units initially, and went so quickly, seemed appealing, and I went for it). Now, it really is more of a rack/stereo unit. What I started out looking for was something for my harder to drive headphones (specifically, the Hifiman 560 and the Senn 650), to use with my computer in my guest room, so after the upgrade, I was back to not having such a unit. Now, the same Geek gear is more expensive (about $2000 to buy the same system I had ordered initially). (to make matters more complicated, I have the GO 1K and the GO Special Edition; when I balked on buying another Pulse Xfi/LPS4, I got a Massdrop Centrance M8 XL4. which has gotten some stellar reviews (Massdrop can take a while, like Light Harmonic, until you actually get a unit). (I also have the Ray Samuels HR-2 amp hanging around)
> So, being the lunatic that I am, I'm still lusting after the Pulse. After all, until the amp, there wasn't an offer they made I didn't go for, all sounded great.
> ...


 
 http://headphone.guru/geek-pulse/


----------



## atsq17

longbowbbs said:


> http://headphone.guru/geek-pulse/


 
  
 Read that the day it came out. It's like the only review of the Geek Pulse in existence it seems.


----------



## zerodeefex

Just got the first of mine and a stack of lightspeed cables. I will be taking pics tonight and putting it through it's paces with the LPS.


----------



## longbowbbs

atsq17 said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > http://headphone.guru/geek-pulse/
> ...


 
 That's because I was the only one with a unit in the wild until now. The Pulse and the Pulse X are just being shipped. The Xfi that I had was serial number 2 and came straight from RMAF. They had #001 and #002 there for listening.


----------



## doctorjazz

Same here, read that one when it was posted on the Indiegogo page, but those of us who might be on the fence on how high to go in the chain (Pulse, Pulse X, Pulse XFi, the various souls), there just isn't any information/comparison on them.


----------



## Levanter

doctorjazz said:


> Same here, read that one when it was posted on the Indiegogo page, but those of us who might be on the fence on how high to go in the chain (Pulse, Pulse X, Pulse XFi, the various souls), there just isn't any information/comparison on them.




I doubt there'll be any comparisons since only the regular Pulse is being shipped. The X and X fi is after the campaign ends, so it's a leap of faith


----------



## chewynuts

Dear All,
  
 I'm looking for a simple USB powered amp to power my UE10Pros, main purpose is just to eliminate the hiss heard on my laptops audio jack.
  
 Could you advise which model is most appropriate for IEMs? I will look out for the recommended model in the for sale threads.


----------



## atsq17

chewynuts said:


> Dear All,
> 
> I'm looking for a simple USB powered amp to power my UE10Pros, main purpose is just to eliminate the hiss heard on my laptops audio jack.
> 
> Could you advise which model is most appropriate for IEMs? I will look out for the recommended model in the for sale threads.


 
  
 Geek Out 100 IEM Edition. It's available on discount from IndieGoGo right now.


----------



## junker

Foe IEM the GeekOut 100. They have 30 units at "The Lowest Price Ever" right now on IGG for $231 with a December delivery.


----------



## cat6man

zerodeefex said:


> Just got the first of mine and a stack of lightspeed cables. I will be taking pics tonight and putting it through it's paces with the LPS.


 
  
 cool............love to see pix
 still waiting for my lightspeed 2G cable here


----------



## Barra

longbowbbs said:


> atsq17 said:
> 
> 
> > longbowbbs said:
> ...


 
 I don't know if it was the pulse or the pulse x, but I listened to one of the two at RMAF downstairs in the CANJAM section for about 5 minutes and can tell you that in general it sounded great, but the signature was very much like the GO1000 or my GO720 with the audiophile, tuby, high powered sound. The guy working the desk told me that it was funny that I said tuby sound as Larry was very much into tubes and has tubes all over their facilities. I believe the HP I listened to was the Alpha which was the first time I had heard it, so that may play into my impressions, but it did sound very much like what I was used to with the GO's. They were playing Hotel California, the live version, which sounded great. What was nice about the pulse was having a working volume knob to get the volume dialed in correctly and easily and the stable desktop format that didn't feel like I would break something with a tug on the cable. As for power, it was hard to tell with an unfamiliar HP but the GO's only feel so overpowered because they are so hard to dial the volume which was not an issue for the more elegant pulse solution. 
  
 So in short, same familiar sound, all the power you need, and in a much more useful form factor for those who are not mobile laptop warriors. However, as much as I preferred the convenience and form factor. I would have trouble paying that much more for the pulse to drive my LCD2s, NT6pros, or HD700s without a more significant SQ increase. Maybe the noise or the small amount of listening time was a factor in this, but those were my initial impressions.


----------



## chartwell85

In regards to Junker's post, heres the link for the lowest price ever Geek Out IEM 100.  
  
http://bit.ly/GeekOutIEM100
  
 You're not going to find it for this price again.


----------



## mark5hs

Hey, I need a good portable amp and I'm think about getting this. Couple questions first: 
  
 1. I notice it has two line outs... what's the difference? 1 linear 1 balanced? 2 different gains? Can't seem to find an answer on their website...
  
 2. I'd use it mainly with IEMs (GR07 bass edition and HifiMan RE600S are what I use at the moment), but I'd also use it with my Bowers P5 and my Denon AHD2000. Which model would be best, 100 or 1000? What exactly do they mean by saying that the 100 is more fine tuned for IEMs? I'm leaning toward the 1000 if it'll work well with IEMs and my cans... can't really afford to get two portable amps.
  
 3. How much were they going for during the campaign, as the backer price?
  
 4. If I got a USB to micro USB cable, would it work with a stock Android phone? (Galaxy S4 running 4.4.2 specifically)
  
  
 Thanks!


----------



## AxelCloris

mark5hs said:


> Hey, I need a good portable amp and I'm think about getting this. Couple questions first:
> 
> 1. I notice it has two line outs... what's the difference? 1 linear 1 balanced? 2 different gains? Can't seem to find an answer on their website...
> 
> ...


 
  
 1. 0.47 ohm output and 47 ohm output.
  
 2. For IEM primarily, 100. For hard to drive cans, 1000. For the most rounded use, 720 or 100 with an external amp. The 1000 is overkill for IEM. Trust me, I have one and there's not as much play in the volume levels as I'd like. The P5 should run fine off the 100, don't know about the D2k. The 100 has a better noise floor for sensitive headphones giving it a blacker background and you have more play in the volume since there's less power being pushed through the amp.
  
 3. Depends on which campaign. During Kickstarter the 1000 could be had for $200 if you got in early, the 100 didn't exist at that time.
  
 4. Can't answer that one, best for someone who owns an Android device.


----------



## doctorjazz

atsq17 said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > I
> ...




OK, spent some time listening today while doing some office work. I did it sort of formally, it is a bit of a pain to disconnect 1 geek out, reconnect the other, go back and forth that way, so I Plugged both into a powered USB hub (Vaunix Lab Brick). JRiver is also a bit finicky with the Geek Out, I've had it crash a number of times just changing headphones, had to reboot the computer (not this time, though it did freeze a number of times, requiring a Task Manager closing and reopening), To minimize connecting/disconnecting, I had the Geek Out 1000 connceted to my JRiver 19. It is also a pain to keep changing the output in JRiver, so I had the Geek Out Special Edition running out of the Pono app (which is a rebranded and slightly redecorated JRiver200. I seems to be a bit better organized, ato least in the short time I have used it). Thus, I just had to move the headphones from 1 Geek to another. I liistened to Hi Rez files downloaded mostly from HDTracks, Grateful Dead American Beauty ("Ripple", "Brokedown Palace", "Truckin. Also listened to Beck's "
Cycle" from the latest album, Daft Punk's "Get Lucky", Ella Fitzgerald/Louis Armstrong "Cheek to Cheek", Bucky Pizzarelli's fabulously recorded 3 For All, Track "Undecided", And Elton John's "Funeral for a Friend/Love Lies Bleeding", from Goodbye Yellow Brick Road). Headphones were mostly Shure 2540, with some time given to the FAD Hope VI, to see if what I noted was related to interactions of the gear, and which did better. OK. let me review my notes.


Now, the Geek Out 1K is not a bad player, in fact, it is quite involving and drives most heaphones without much trouble. Compared to the Special Edition, though, it sounded dry, grainy, flattened, On the SE there was more air between instruments, more body/texture to the instruments, a more realistic presentation. Detail was captured by both, but was much cleared from the CE. The graininess and slightly exaggerated highs on the 1K made it less open than the SE, which presented a much more realistic picture of the voices, music, and the space they were in. Bass, present in both, has more texture from the SE. Funeral for a Friend/Love Lies Bleeding, was sharp, jumping out of the headphones on the SE, not so much on the 1K, more 1 dimensional, flatter, less involving. This held true for both headphones, though was in sharper contrast with the 1540-the FAD is a tad more forgiving. The GO 1K has some grain, and is a tiny bit hot in the treble to my ears. The SE has rounder, more fleshed out images, none of that tizziness, a relaxed presentation of the performance (which doesn't mean it doesn't swing it's cajonas off). Of course, this has to be kept if the context that the SE costs 3x the GO 1K; the 1K is a very good budget performer, and I enjoyed it a bit (minus volume issues) before I got the SE. Now it hardly sees any play time.
This is interesting, in a general way. First, just responding to a request. But LH seems to have integrated the basic inners of the Geek Out into the Pulse. As the add ons to go to the GO SE involved better components, Femto clocks, etc, I'd guess a similar process is involved in the upgrades to the Pulse X and the Xfi (though this is all surmise, I don't hae any official information). So, I'd expect the performance of the Xfi compared to the Stock pulse to be considerably better, in the ways that the GO SE improves on the GO 1k. 
It's 1:30 AM, not as detailed as many post, but I think it gets the idea across.




Gear in question, Green is Geek Out 1K, Gold is Special Edition

)/


----------



## Baycode

Thanks for the comparos @doctorjazz !
  
 Which firmware did you use for the GO1000?


----------



## doctorjazz

I upgraded the GO1K to the latest, "improved" (for me it is improved, I had stopped using it due to the blast of full volume that would repeatedly occur. I see some differ sound quality wise, don't remember the original enough to give an opinion). The SE ships with the same software, that is, buttons for switching filters rather than volume, and no "awesomfier".


----------



## AxelCloris

doctorjazz said:


> Of course, this has to be kept if the context that the SE costs 3x the GO 1K; the 1K is a very good budget performer, and I enjoyed it a bit (minus volume issues) before I got the SE. Now it hardly sees any play time.


 
  
 This 100%. I enjoyed my 1000 without any complaints until the SE arrived. Now that the SE is here the 1000 gets no play time at all, I will always reach for the SE. On its own the 1000 is not lacking but the SE is simply better across the board.


----------



## Baycode

doctorjazz said:


> I upgraded the GO1K to the latest, "improved" (for me it is improved, I had stopped using it due to the blast of full volume that would repeatedly occur. I see some differ sound quality wise, don't remember the original enough to give an opinion). The SE ships with the same software, that is, buttons for switching filters rather than volume, and no "awesomfier".




Thanks for the reply!


----------



## doctorjazz

axelcloris said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > Of course, this has to be kept if the context that the SE costs 3x the GO 1K; the 1K is a very good budget performer, and I enjoyed it a bit (minus volume issues) before I got the SE. Now it hardly sees any play time.
> ...




Did you get your Xfi yet? You have it listed in equipment. I had gone for the Xfi and LPS4, then wound up upgrading to the Soul Tube in a burst of enthusiasm, but not too much thought. Now I'm thinking the Xfi is actually more what I really wanted, it's not explicitly a rack unit (though it could be), but could also be used as a desktop, headphone amp/dac, computer audio player, which the Soul won't really be right for (it is exactly the same, but the form factor would make it odd in that application, though, I suppose, it's not that big a deal to use it that way...). How do you like it if you do have it
As I said earlier, and you said as well, the GO 1K is fine on its own, but the differences between it and the SE are not at all subtle, hits you over the head how much better it is, not sure I communicated that in the above description. When I changed between them on the same song, it was like going to a whole different recording.


----------



## AxelCloris

doctorjazz said:


> Did you get your Xfi yet? You have it listed in equipment. I had gone for the Xfi and LPS4, then wound up upgrading to the Soul Tube in a burst of enthusiasm, but not too much thought. Now I'm thinking the Xfi is actually more what I really wanted, it's not explicitly a rack unit (though it could be), but could also be used as a desktop, headphone amp/dac, computer audio player, which the Soul won't really be right for (it is exactly the same, but the form factor would make it odd in that application, though, I suppose, it's not that big a deal to use it that way...). How do you like it if you do have it
> As I said earlier, and you said as well, the GO 1K is fine on its own, but the differences between it and the SE are not at all subtle, hits you over the head how much better it is, not sure I communicated that in the above description. When I changed between them on the same song, it was like going to a whole different recording.


 
  
 Nope, none have shipped yet; shipping of the Pulse X line is supposed to begin this week. But I spent a fair amount of time with the Pulse Xfi/LPS combo at RMAF. I too thought about the Soul but decided that the Pulse was more what I was looking for. I'm also waiting for LHLabs to announce their tube amp so I passed on the tube buffer stage.
  
 As for my impressions of the Xfi, I really liked what I heard. I heard it driving the Alpha Dog Prime and the HE-400i. I owned the Alpha Dogs when I heard the Prime and I have to say that was one nice combination but the 400i is what really surprised me. Even with open backed headphones in the noisy show environment I could tell that the sound was wonderful. I can't really compare it to the SE since I've had the SE only in controlled environments when using it with my own (modded) 400i. The Pulse that I heard definitely sounded like it was a member of the Geek family, no mistaking that. If you like the GO sound then you'll like the Pulse even more.
  
 Can't wait to get my Pulse Xfi and compare it against the SE, running both off of the LPS.


----------



## ejong7

So can anybody summarize how does the 100,450,720 and 1000 compare to each other? Or is it just power. Getting mixed opinions about this.


----------



## ejong7

Just to add some context to the previous comment, I plan to use the Geek Out mainly with the HD25 and VISO HP50 and also the JH Roxannes. I was contemplating the 100 but want to leave some options for potentially more power hungry headphones. 450 seems fine for me but if the 450 works the same as the 720 and 1000 for sensitive IEMs i might consider going higher power.


----------



## atsq17

ejong7 said:


> So can anybody summarize how does the 100,450,720 and 1000 compare to each other? Or is it just power. Getting mixed opinions about this.


 
  
 To my knowledge, the 450, 720 and 1000 sound quite similar and it's just a power thing. 
  
 The 100 is a completely different unit which is quieter and designed to work better with IEMs. 
  
 I probably didn't say anything that you didn't already know but I don't think there's much more to it. 
  
 I did compare a 720 to a 1000 once and I couldn't tell the difference. Could be just me though.


----------



## atsq17

ejong7 said:


> Just to add some context to the previous comment, I plan to use the Geek Out mainly with the HD25 and VISO HP50 and also the JH Roxannes. I was contemplating the 100 but want to leave some options for potentially more power hungry headphones. 450 seems fine for me but if the 450 works the same as the 720 and 1000 for sensitive IEMs i might consider going higher power.


 
  
 Depends what you will be using it mostly with. 
  
 My JH13PRO FP work just fine with my 720. Given the choice though, I'd want to try the 100.


----------



## AxelCloris

As you go higher in the power the more sensitive volume control becomes and the higher the noise floor will be for more sensitive headphones. If you're trying to strike a balance the 450 could be what you want. If you're using the GO with efficient headphones and IEMs then you should look at the 100 and add an external amp later if you want to push more power hungry cans. The low noise floor of the 100 combined with a nice portable amp like the C5 or E12 will give power to the big cans without 
  
 I found the 1000 to be very much overkill with my 1964-Q, the 100 IEM version is far better suited to them. It gives me more play in the volume which is great because I found that there were times when the steps of the 1000 were simply too big. And the blacker background of the 100 makes IEMs and sensitive headphones that much more enjoyable.
  
 Source: I've owned all GO apart from the 450 at one point or another.


----------



## miceblue

ejong7 said:


> So can anybody summarize how does the 100,450,720 and 1000 compare to each other? Or is it just power. Getting mixed opinions about this.



Between the 450 and 1000 that I have, the only differences are power output and the noise floor. Larry himself confirmed that the 450 is pretty much identical to the 1000 in terms of measurements.
http://lhlabs.com/force/geekout/898-geek-out-vs-the-others-3rd-installment#13852


----------



## ejong7

hmmm okay. Cause i personally don't really wanna buy an external amp after the GO. I want a no hassle single unit component. I might take the 450 then. Should be enough to power my TH900 as well. I don't really think I'm gonna buy power hungry headphones for use with my laptop on the go anyways, which is the key for me getting the GO.


----------



## ejong7

Thank you for all your quick replies. Sorry for making this a separate post I tend to submit posts and forget to really finish them up =P


----------



## doctorjazz

axelcloris said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > Did you get your Xfi yet? You have it listed in equipment. I had gone for the Xfi and LPS4, then wound up upgrading to the Soul Tube in a burst of enthusiasm, but not too much thought. Now I'm thinking the Xfi is actually more what I really wanted, it's not explicitly a rack unit (though it could be), but could also be used as a desktop, headphone amp/dac, computer audio player, which the Soul won't really be right for (it is exactly the same, but the form factor would make it odd in that application, though, I suppose, it's not that big a deal to use it that way...). How do you like it if you do have it
> ...




Understand, I upgraded to the Soul Tube in a fit of enthusiasm/rushed, didn't think it through. Probably the Xfi would be more to my needs, Soul is more of a rack unit, wanted something to hook to my computer, use for headphones/casual listening (even Pulse Xfi is probably overkill for this, with the power supply will list for $4.000. They now give the opion of going back to xfi with tube buffer if you want, go back and forth on this. This was all much less expensive when they started, now Xfi and LPS is about $2000 for as long as Indiegogo campaign is alive, a few more weeks it looks like. I did buy the Massdrop Centrance M8, which may not be quite up to the Pulse Xfi (or, maybe it will be, really well reviewed), can always use the Soul out of the rack, but it will look a bit silly on my computer desk. More 1st world problems...


----------



## doctorjazz

doctorjazz said:


> axelcloris said:
> 
> 
> > doctorjazz said:
> ...


----------



## Kojaku

So has anyone had time to try driving a 450 purely on OTG (no external battery) on a phone with lollipop?

Kojaku


----------



## AxelCloris

kojaku said:


> So has anyone had time to try driving a 450 purely on OTG (no external battery) on a phone with lollipop?
> 
> Kojaku


 
  
 He lives!~
  
 I have not, iPhone user.


----------



## Kojaku

axelcloris said:


> He lives!~
> 
> I have not, iPhone user.




I am indeed alive. Having dropped out of the wave campaign due to financial issues, I am now trying to find a viable OTG solution. Need that portable DSD in my life. It's good to be back!

Kojaku


----------



## bhazard

kojaku said:


> So has anyone had time to try driving a 450 purely on OTG (no external battery) on a phone with lollipop?
> 
> Kojaku


 
 It works (with battery on my 1000). Without battery it eventually dies out and has more distortion.


----------



## AxelCloris

kojaku said:


> I am indeed alive. Having dropped out of the wave campaign due to financial issues, I am now trying to find a viable OTG solution. Need that portable DSD in my life. It's good to be back!
> 
> Kojaku


 
  
@m-i-c-k-e-y has been doing a LOT of testing with Android devices both here and on LHLabs' forums. I'll see if I can pull up some of his awesome work. I know he's talked about it both here and there, and I remember that a Samsung device (Galaxy S4 maybe) was running a GO without the need for an external battery.
  
 Glad to see you around these parts again, it's been a long time.


----------



## miceblue

Am I the only one that doesn't understand the point of all of this effort to connect the GO to a smartphone just to play DSD files? Seems like a waste of 1) time 2) physical space and 3) digital storage space to me.
1) obviously hooking up the GO to any smartphone is going to take a bunch of time to set up and get up and running
2) carrying around a thousand cables just to play DSD files seems silly to me and you can't really put it anywhere since the GO gets to like 40˚C
3) 1 DSD album takes up like 2.5 GB of storage space; why not convert DSD to regular PCM and save some space? Any audio benefit DSD would theoretically have over PCM is most likely going to be lost anyway if you're using it on a portable setup. Something like XLD on Mac can convert even DSD256 to 24/352.8, and you can convert that through normal PCM downsampling processes. For the 2.5 GB you use with 1 DSD album, you can probably have like 3 DSD to PCM albums on your portable device.

Would it not make sense just to get an external, battery powered DAC/amp instead, like the Geek Stream or upcoming OPPO HA-2?


----------



## AxelCloris

I think it's more about having a better DAC chip rather than the fact that it specifically supports DSD, but I could be wrong. Those other devices aren't out currently, and the ones that are like the M8 are more expensive than a GO450.


----------



## Kojaku

axelcloris said:


> I think it's more about having a better DAC chip rather than the fact that it specifically supports DSD, but I could be wrong. Those other devices aren't out currently, and the ones that are like the M8 are more expensive than a GO450.




You've got the right idea. DSD is fantastic to listen to, but no one should be storing any more than a few files on physical (in my case, non-expandable) smartphone storage. Lower noise floor, higher output, and a DAC section with a proven track record both in terms of the implementation and the chip itself are the most appealing things about a product like this. Oh yeah, and form factor.

Kojaku


----------



## jexby

miceblue said:


> Am I the only one that doesn't understand the point of all of this effort to connect the GO to a smartphone just to play DSD files? Seems like a waste of 1) time 2) physical space and 3) digital storage space to me.
> 1) obviously hooking up the GO to any smartphone is going to take a bunch of time to set up and get up and running
> 2) carrying around a thousand cables just to play DSD files seems silly to me and you can't really put it anywhere since the GO gets to like 40˚C
> 3) 1 DSD album takes up like 2.5 GB of storage space; why not convert DSD to regular PCM and save some space? Any audio benefit DSD would theoretically have over PCM is most likely going to be lost anyway if you're using it on a portable setup. Something like XLD on Mac can convert even DSD256 to 24/352.8, and you can convert that through normal PCM downsampling processes. For the 2.5 GB you use with 1 DSD album, you can probably have like 3 DSD to PCM albums on your portable device.
> ...


 
  
 Miceblue- I am right there with ya! (mostly in iDevices/Android OTG) that waiting for Geek Stream or HA-2, or using Herus or mDAC (presently) or nano/micro iDSD-  is a whole lot easier than all this, split cable, external-power source, USB cable adapter fudging to GeekOut or Fulla (units that have no battery) for portable use.
  
 my current config is
  iPhone 5S (has 2 DSD albums + 30GB of lossless) + JRemote (stream all lossless 16/44 from home iMac server) to a iFi micro iDSD using 1 CCK cable. done.
 portable?  not really.  transportable, yes.
  
 Geek Stream (IEM + Femto) is on order, and will replace micro iDSD and hook up to iPhone with 1 CCK cable, portable use heaven!
 will keep iFi micro iDSD at home for transportable use.
  
 but yah, portable = small + battery + single cable in my world.


----------



## chartwell85

A review from TONEAudio just came in today.  Give er' a look.
  
http://www.tonepublications.com/review/light-harmonic-geek-out-1000-dac-and-headphone-amplifier/


----------



## junker

The 450 2V is best for standard line-level inputs. The 100 is best for IEM. The 1000 is best for high impedance big cans, but requires turning down the volume quite a bit with most typical headphones and with line level inputs. I run the 450 SE into my stereo but had the 1000 before. Even with the 450 I have to run -12 - 24dB into my stereo.


----------



## jexby

doctorjazz said:


> I did buy the Massdrop Centrance M8, which may not be quite up to the Pulse Xfi (or, maybe it will be, really well reviewed), can always use the Soul out of the rack, but it will look a bit silly on my computer desk. More 1st world problems...


 
  
 not to derail from 1st (or zero) world problems, but as a former M8 owner and owner/listener of Xfi at RMAF-  I fully expect Xfi to easily surpass the M8 at the desktop level.
 Xfi = dual-mono, USB 3 layer buffering, fully balanced XLR and headphone amp, DSD, two digital filters, moar power, RCA outputs, LPS option, etc, etc.


----------



## doctorjazz

jexby said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > I did buy the Massdrop Centrance M8, which may not be quite up to the Pulse Xfi (or, maybe it will be, really well reviewed), can always use the Soul out of the rack, but it will look a bit silly on my computer desk. More 1st world problems...
> ...




You could be right...already in for a Soul Tube, though, just couldn't justify spending another 2 grand on Pretty much the same thing, different box. The portable aspect is also appealing. Hey, I coul go back to Xfi, LP4, tube buffer, and I seriously considered it. Staying put for now, though.


----------



## jexby

doctorjazz,
  
 hear ya on that Soul Tube move- could be a steal/great move since you have the space to rack it.
  
  
 my desktop holding out for a an LPS4 and Geek Tube Headphone Amp in 2015 perhaps.
 until then Xfi + Lyr 2 going to easily rock HE-560 for months and months.
  
 transportable = iFi micro DSD (over M8 for a variety of USB engineering and feature choices)
 portable = Geek Stream (IEM + femto)


----------



## doctorjazz

Yeah, got the Stream, the Source, GO1K, GO SE, whole lotta geeking going on! Still go back and forth on tradingdown" to Xfi/LPS4/tube buffer, but I think, space wise, it may be even worse than the Soul. Probably be a good thing for me when the wholewhole Indiegogo thing is over!


----------



## Lceaucx

Don't think it'll ever be over, cos after this will be the VI amp campaign, and then geek wave forever funding with all their sidetrack perks, and then there's the pre amp, separate headphone amp... The campaigns will never end!


----------



## Levanter

lceaucx said:


> Don't think it'll ever be over, cos after this will be the VI amp campaign, and then geek wave forever funding with all their sidetrack perks, and then there's the pre amp, separate headphone amp... The campaigns will never end!


 
  
 Mind elaborating on the vi amp campaign? And also the Keep?


----------



## jexby

lceaucx said:


> Don't think it'll ever be over, cos after this will be the VI amp campaign, and then geek wave forever funding with all their sidetrack perks, and then there's the pre amp, separate headphone amp... The campaigns will never end!


 
  
 truth!


----------



## Lceaucx

levanter said:


> Mind elaborating on the vi amp campaign? And also the Keep?


 
 Its something that was discussed around the LHlabs forums, and there was one thread where those who requested were given a sneak peak of some of the promotional materials for it.. not sure if the thread is still there... its basically the keep in the garb of the geek soul. No ideas as to when it will be though, hopefully long after all the pulses have shipped and things have settled down for them.


----------



## NinjaHamster

lceaucx said:


> Its something that was discussed around the LHlabs forums, and there was one thread where those who requested were given a sneak peak of some of the promotional materials for it.. not sure if the thread is still there... its basically the keep in the garb of the geek soul. No ideas as to when it will be though, hopefully long after all the pulses have shipped and things have settled down for them.




They also have innovative "impedence matching" modules for a range of specific speakers (about 10 speakers at the moment).


----------



## ejong7

How powerful is the 100 in terms of driving headphones such as the HD25s and NAD HP50? I notice a slight hiss on my 450 when there's nothing playing, not entirely a deal breaker, but if those headphones can be played efficiently with the 100 it might be a consideration to change to it.


----------



## longbowbbs

ejong7 said:


> How powerful is the 100 in terms of driving headphones such as the HD25s and NAD HP50? I notice a slight hiss on my 450 when there's nothing playing, not entirely a deal breaker, but if those headphones can be played efficiently with the 100 it might be a consideration to change to it.


 
 I am running the 100's with my HD650's atm. Compared to the GO1000, I have the volume up much higher, as you would expect. If you want very high volume, it will not be enough. However, I would not want to listen to the 100 for long at max volume. Too loud. However, the quality is excellent. The HD25-1 ii's are easier to drive (I have had them for years) and I would expect they should be an easy drive for the 100'. I do not have them with me on the road so I cannot try them now.


----------



## longbowbbs

Geek Out 100IEM, Toxic Cables Silver Poisons HD650's and Audirvana...


----------



## Lceaucx

Hmm that's interesting to know go 100 is enough to drive hd650. I use go 450 and normally volume is at - 5 to - 15 db. I guess it would benefit from more headroom. But what you say may tempt me to get the 100 to try, as when I use the 450 with my iem (westone 3), i do hear some hiss. Not that evident, but can be heard when I look for it


----------



## ejong7

:O WHUT you can drive the HD650s with the GO 100!? Now I'm really impressed. Are we talking driving similar to the Dragonfly in terms of power (they are qite similar) ? Wow I'm contacting my seller right now lol.


----------



## longbowbbs

The power output from the GO100IEM is similar to the Dragonfly. At full volume both are uncomfortably loud for me using the HD650's. I find the GO100 to be more refined. I am not unhappy with the Dragonfly. I enjoyed it for over a year before an adequate competitor arrived. They are both marvel's of engineering. The GO has replaced the DF for my goto rig though.


----------



## ejong7

I would agree that the 450 is more refined when compared to the DF (mine is the v1.2), though for the price and incredible form factor (remember that the GO is twice the width of the DF, not that the GO is HUGE but just to show how small the DF is) DF is a good recommendation at the price point. But if the DF and GO100 is similar in terms of power I'm going with the GO100. Definitely able to power up my hardest to drive PORTABLE which in this case is the HP50.


----------



## fengwei007

I just got a Geek Out IEM 100 yesterday, tried it w/ PK1 earbuds and HD600, worked very nicely with Win7. But I did notice some quiet but noticeable cracking sound after like 10-20min play when I'm using it with MBA, I thought it's because of the heat it generates, but the cracking sound goes away when I press the button closer to the USB port (can't tell which button is for volume up and which is for down) once, seems one of the filters is enabled or something. I don't have this problem w/ the Herus (for the same source files). 
  
 Other than this problem, it sounds pretty good. Seems not as refined as the Herus, but overall very nice. Can't say it's better than the Explorer which I just sold, but it's definitely more powerful, probably as powerful as the microStreamer which I also had before. And this GO100 gets hot very fast! Hotter than the microStreamer which is already pretty hot. Wonder if it can sustain this kind of heat for long. Will use it mostly in office (got aircon), so probably not a big issue. 
  
 I just hope there are some indicators on the two little buttons so I'd know I'm pressing on the correct one.


----------



## miceblue

lceaucx said:


> Hmm that's interesting to know go 100 is enough to drive hd650. I use go 450 and normally volume is at - 5 to - 15 db. I guess it would benefit from more headroom. But what you say may tempt me to get the 100 to try, as when I use the 450 with my iem (westone 3), i do hear some hiss. Not that evident, but can be heard when I look for it



The GO 100 outputs a maximum of 1.26 V (100 mW at 16 Ω).
power = (1/resistance) * (voltage RMS)^2
0.100 W = (1/16 Ω) * (x Volts RMS)^2
x = 1.26


The HD650 has an impedance rating of 320 Ω at 1 kHz according to Innerfidelity's measurements, and requires 0.13 mW to reach 90 dB SPL.
power = (1/320 Ω) * (1.26 V)^2 = 5 mW maximum power output at 320 Ω


Even if you listened to the HD650 at 105 dB SPL instead of 90, the GO 100 would have enough power for it.
+3 dB SPL increase = double the power required from the amplifier
105 dB SPL - 90 dB SPL = 15 dB SPL
15 dB SPL / 3 dB SPL = 5 = double the amplifier's required power five times
power = 0.13 mW * 2^5 = 4.16 mW


As for the volume control, it's logarithmic, so you may have the GO 450's volume level at around -5 to -15 dB FS, but the volume ramps up rapidly any higher than that. For the GO 100, you might have to crank it up to -2 dB FS for the 105 dB SPL volume level.



*these are all approximated calculations


----------



## fengwei007

Thanks for the calculation. 
  
 I wonder why the GO100 is more expensive than the 450/720 versions, and will the other versions get much hotter than the GO100 due to much higher output power? The GO100 is already very hot, can't hold in hand after 1-2hrs play. Probably because it's hot and humid all year round here in Singapore.


----------



## Lceaucx

Hey Bro fengwei007! 
  
 Hah the HD650 i'm using was yours! I'm the one who bought it from you  Welcome to the world of LHlabs!
  
 Well my 450 does run hot, but not overly so, even when I have both the hD650 and Oppo pm1 plugged in at the same time. According to Larry, its meant to run hot, in fact, the warmer the better he says. With regards to the filters, more information can be found here:
http://lhlabs.com/support/geek-out-v1-5-firmware-changelog.html under point 5.
  
 I think the GO 100 was more expensive because of some tweaks they made in it specifically to work well with IEMs, especially in reducing the hiss that i get when running IEMs through the 450
  
 @miceblue thanks for the calculations! good to know that even the 100 is so capable of driving full sized cans.


----------



## fengwei007

lceaucx said:


> Hey Bro fengwei007!
> 
> Hah the HD650 i'm using was yours! I'm the one who bought it from you  Welcome to the world of LHlabs!
> 
> ...


 
 That's great! I didn't expect to buy this GO100, but saw a lot talks about these Geeks, couldn't resist   It's been running for about 10 hours already, sound even better now. 
  
 I'd pair it mostly with my PK1 in office, so the heat isn't a big deal. This combo sound really nice. 
  
 Okay, so to use the two filter effects, I have to push either the UP or DOWN button. Now the question is, which one is volume UP and which one is DOWN button? I got mine w/ the latest firmware built-in already, there is no way to tell which one is for UP or DOWN


----------



## kawaivpc1

Which cellphone does work with Geek Out? 
I know Samsung Galaxy series work with Gwek Out without an additional battery. Is there any other cellphone model that works fine with Geek out?


----------



## surja

Hi all,
  
 I have a few questions:
  
 I have Beyerdynamic T90 - which Geek Out would work the best for me? I know GO 1000 would drive it easily, but do I need it, or can get a GO 100?
  
 Also, does any of the GO models work with android without an external power source?
  
 Lastly, I just ran into a thread on creative soundblaster E5 - it seems to be really versatile with so many cool features. Can anyone comment how it would compare with GO in terms of sound quality?
  
 Thanks!


----------



## JoeDoe

surja said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
> ...




Is vote for the 1000 not because of the power (the T90 barely needs an amp because it it's extremely sensitive tesla drivers) but because of its slightly warm sound. Perfect for taking the edge off the 90s sometimes zingy treble.


----------



## kostaszag

surja said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
> ...


 

 I don't know about your headphones, but if they  are sensitive I would stay away from the GO1000. I own a GO 450 and it fried 3 pairs of Sony MH1 in the process, which are not the most sensitive IEMs., or so I hear. In one case it was my fault (I plugged them in while in full volume, I should have been more careful), in the other two cases it was the fault of UAPP and/or my ancient cellphone, Samsung Galaxy SIII, which still runs on Android 4.3. 
  
 GO runs reportedly on Android 4.4 and 5.0 without external battery, but drains it fast. In your case I would go for a GO 100 and not even consider Creative Soundblaster.


----------



## Currawong

The new firmware fixes the full volume issue.


----------



## NinjaHamster

currawong said:


> The new firmware fixes the full volume issue.




... and sounds better.


----------



## Currawong

ninjahamster said:


> currawong said:
> 
> 
> > The new firmware fixes the full volume issue.
> ...


 
  
 Agreed! IIRC it lowers the noise floor.


----------



## gikigill

Does anyone else find the Geek 1000 to be very tubey. I'm comparing it with a fully upgraded SEX and they both sound very similar not to mention fantastic. Almost end game material.


----------



## kostaszag

currawong said:


> The new firmware fixes the full volume issue.


 
 I know. It was my fault, had forgotten the volume on my Macmini fully turned on.


----------



## jahmed1

Just got my Geek Out 450, which is my first DAC and I must say I'm really pleased. I immediately updated the firmware, so I didn't get the chance to test out the 3D Awesomizer though. Given how much everyone praises it, I wish I could have tried it.
  
 There is a small question. Can I plug an electric guitar or any other MIDI device into the Geek Out and use it as an input for music recording? I didn't think about this before, but after seeing this option in the Geek Out app (as shown in screenshot below), it got me curious. If I can, what are the improvements I should expect?
  
 Finally, I would like to ask that my compute only displaying 24 bit, 192 kHz as the highest sample rates, while the DAC is 32 bit. I've attached the screenshot of the thing I'm talking about too. Does it matter which sample rates it displays? If yes, how can I get the device specs to show up?
  
 Thank you!


----------



## bhazard

The Geek Out only has outputs.
  
 You could get an interface box to plug your guitar into your PC. You could then use a program like Amplitude for amps, and then run your audio out through the Geek Out.


----------



## CEE TEE

^Right...think you need something like a Lynx Hilo DAC & ADC.
 ADC = Analog to Digital Converter.  Also useful for digitizing vinyl albums to digital files (needledrops).


----------



## rlawli

jahmed1 said:


> Finally, I would like to ask that my compute only displaying 24 bit, 192 kHz as the highest sample rates, while the DAC is 32 bit. I've attached the screenshot of the thing I'm talking about too. Does it matter which sample rates it displays? If yes, how can I get the device specs to show up?
> 
> Thank you!


 
  
 You should install and use the Light Harmonic ASIO driver instead of the built-in windows driver control panel:
  
 First, install the LH ASIO driver. Once you have done this, a Light Harmonic icon will appear in the "Hidden Icons" popup in the lower right hand corner of your Windows tool bar.
  
 Plug in your Geek Out, then open up the driver's "Control Panel" by clicking on it's hidden icon.
  
 The first of the 3 tabs on the LH Control Panel, "Status" - will show "Geek Out HD Audio 1V5" in the "USB Audio" pulldown.
  
 The "Buffer Settings" Tab can be left to its default settings or adjusted later to suit.
  
 Open the Volume tab and press the Output button. This dialog is where you control your GO volume. It has 2 sliders, the one on the left is for the analog volume control in the GO, the right for the digital volume control. Slide one of them at least to -50dB or mute before you turn on your amp so you won't blow out your ears/earbuds/speakers. (Press the speaker icon to toggle mute.) 
  
 Open your player to its configuration/options (whatever it's called) dialog and choose Light Harmonic ASIO as the the player's output device device driver.
  
 For example, in JRiver you go to Tools/Options/Audio/Audio Device to pick the LH driver; in Foobar 2000 you go to File/Preferences/Playback/Audio/Asio to pick the LH driver. As you can see with these two examples, you may have to poke around to find it.
  
 Now you can queue up some music and play it at higher bit rates. Depending on your player, you may have more configuring ahead to get it to recognise and play DSD/DFF files in DSD format (look for a DSD over DoP bitstream setting).
  
 Search this thread. Everything I've said and more is in here somewhere though not always easy to find.


----------



## chartwell85

We have a beta program we're running for the GO firmware upgrade for OS X
  
 Email info@lightharmonic.com if you want to participate in this beta program.


----------



## jexby

hit me.


chartwell85 said:


> We have a beta program we're running for the GO firmware upgrade for OS X
> 
> Email info@lightharmonic.com if you want to participate in this beta program.


 
  
 sent.
 hit me.


----------



## chartwell85

jexby said:


> hit me.
> 
> sent.
> hit me.


 

 Sent


----------



## miceblue

chartwell85 said:


> We have a beta program we're running for the GO firmware upgrade for OS X
> 
> Email info@lightharmonic.com if you want to participate in this beta program.


Cool! I'd be interested in testing it too. I just sent an e-mail to that e-mail address. 

I don't think there's a DFU updater for Mac yet, so this is exciting to see.


----------



## SHFT

How does the Geek Out compare to the AudioQuest Dragonfly, I know the DragonFly is a lot cheaper but how does it stack against the Geek Out. 
 Since it is a rather powerful device has anyone experienced extra battery drain on a portable?


----------



## longbowbbs

The GO has more power and can handle 24/192 and DSD. I own them both and I like them both but the GO is more versatile.


----------



## fengwei007

shft said:


> How does the Geek Out compare to the AudioQuest Dragonfly, I know the DragonFly is a lot cheaper but how does it stack against the Geek Out.
> Since it is a rather powerful device has anyone experienced extra battery drain on a portable?


 
 I've had DragonFly (1st version), microStreamer, Meridian Explorer (w/ lower output impedance) and GO IEM 100, I like the Explorer and the GO the best. Between these two, it's a draw. The GO has much more power while the Explorer sounds a bit smoother. If I have to keep one, it's probably the GO IEM 100.


----------



## bozoskeletonz

Im thinking of sticking a heatsink on my geek out.  Here's the question:
  
 Would a magnet mess up the internals?
  
 I would like a heat sink that wouldn't get adhesive on it, and a magnet could be easy off and on.  Any insight?  Thanks!


----------



## SHFT

fengwei007 said:


> I've had DragonFly (1st version), microStreamer, Meridian Explorer (w/ lower output impedance) and GO IEM 100, I like the Explorer and the GO the best. Between these two, it's a draw. The GO has much more power while the Explorer sounds a bit smoother. If I have to keep one, it's probably the GO IEM 100.




How much power does the geek out need. I use a surface pro 3 to listen on the go but I fear it will not supply enough power.


----------



## AxelCloris

bozoskeletonz said:


> Im thinking of sticking a heatsink on my geek out.  Here's the question:
> 
> Would a magnet mess up the internals?
> 
> I would like a heat sink that wouldn't get adhesive on it, and a magnet could be easy off and on.  Any insight?  Thanks!


 
  
 Couldn't the magnet potentially cause issues with heat transference? Why not something simple like a zip tie?


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## mandrake50

bozoskeletonz said:


> Im thinking of sticking a heatsink on my geek out.  Here's the question:
> 
> Would a magnet mess up the internals?
> 
> I would like a heat sink that wouldn't get adhesive on it, and a magnet could be easy off and on.  Any insight?  Thanks!


 

 I have seen a very significant drop in the case temperature by simply sitting the GO on top of a heat sink. You can get heat conductive double stick tape. I have used this between a CPU and heat sink ... it is not as good as a quality heat sink compound (paste) for moving heat, but probably fine for this application.. The cleanup is not bad with the stuff I used. A bit of isopropyl alcohol easily removed any residue.
  
 One other thing. The GO case is aluminum... most good heat sinks are aluminum or copper. All non magnetic materials. A magnet will not adhere to any of them..


----------



## fengwei007

shft said:


> How much power does the geek out need. I use a surface pro 3 to listen on the go but I fear it will not supply enough power.




I sold my surface pro already, can't test w geek out. But I'm guessing the surface pro won't give enough power for this to work properly.


----------



## fengwei007

mandrake50 said:


> I have seen a very significant drop in the case temperature by simply sitting the GO on top of a heat sink. You can get heat conductive double stick tape. I have used this between a CPU and heat sink ... it is not as good as a quality heat sink compound (paste) for moving heat, but probably fine for this application.. The cleanup is not bad with the stuff I used. A bit of isopropyl alcohol easily removed any residue.
> 
> One other thing. The GO case is aluminum... most good heat sinks are aluminum or copper. All non magnetic materials. A magnet will not adhere to any of them..




Actually just leave the GO on a piece of metal would greatly help w the heat release. 

Today I hooked the GO100 up w my laptop and preamp as source to a pair of 110A speakers, the sound is fantastic. While the GO100 was sitting on the Emotiva preamp's metal casing, the part where they touched each other got quite a bit warmer than the rest of the casing, and I felt the GO100 wasn't as hot as it usually is. Still warm, but definitely can't say it's hot. Usually it gets really hot after running for a while.


----------



## MrSlim

bozoskeletonz said:


> Im thinking of sticking a heatsink on my geek out.  Here's the question:
> 
> Would a magnet mess up the internals?
> 
> I would like a heat sink that wouldn't get adhesive on it, and a magnet could be easy off and on.  Any insight?  Thanks!




Just having the GO sit on something like this:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050MR8CG will reduce the temperature considerably. Works well to keep the temp down of a Dacport LX too.


----------



## longbowbbs

I really don't feel the GO1000 gets that hot. I use it a lot and it never gets to "Burn Me" temperatures. Warm sure....Not hot.


----------



## SHFT

fengwei007 said:


> I sold my surface pro already, can't test w geek out. But I'm guessing the surface pro won't give enough power for this to work properly.


 
 I asked arround at  LH Labs forums and apparently it is possible. Some uses his SP3 to power one!


----------



## mandrake50

shft said:


> I asked arround at  LH Labs forums and apparently it is possible. Some uses his SP3 to power one!


 

 It is designed to work form a standard USB 2 port (5 volts and 0.5 amp max). If the surface pro has a standard USB 2 port (I believe that it does), it should be fine.
 Of course it will reduce battery life some.


----------



## TonySunshine

I use my geek out 100 iem with my surface pro 3 daily with no issues. down side is the one usb port is always occupied. havent been able to find a good usb hub that doesnt introduce floor noise



mandrake50 said:


> It is designed to work form a standard USB 2 port (5 volts and 0.5 amp max). If the surface pro has a standard USB 2 port (I believe that it does), it should be fine.
> Of course it will reduce battery life some.


----------



## evanft

Has anyone done a comparison to the magni/modi stack?


----------



## doctorjazz

longbowbbs said:


> I really don't feel the GO1000 gets that hot. I use it a lot and it never gets to "Burn Me" temperatures. Warm sure....Not hot.




Mine (the SE version) gets pretty hot. Not hot enough to blister my fingers, but if I hold it, definitely want to let it go in a few seconds (If I keep holding it, doesn't get worse, but it is quite hot imo). I have kept it plugged in, maybe that's the issue.


----------



## longbowbbs

doctorjazz said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > I really don't feel the GO1000 gets that hot. I use it a lot and it never gets to "Burn Me" temperatures. Warm sure....Not hot.
> ...


 
 Interesting. I have the GO1000 and the GOIEM100 and do not experience that level of heat with either. Warm yes but not uncomfortably hot.


----------



## kostaszag

longbowbbs said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > longbowbbs said:
> ...


 

 It all depends on where you live. I see you are located in Wisconsin, right? I understand the climate is quite cold, or at least cool most of the time. Now, if you lived in a place with tropical or otherwise hot climate, like say Singapore or Greece (where I come from), that would be a completely different situation and what you now feel as "warm but not uncomfortably hot" could become really uncomfortable.


----------



## longbowbbs

kostaszag said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > doctorjazz said:
> ...


 
 While it is a cool -18 F outside atm, it is a nice and comfortable 72 inside. I don't use the GO as a true portable. I use it in hotel rooms when traveling. Regular room temperature. In that regard I do not find it runs uncomfortably hot.


----------



## likearake

Have all the volume issues been fixed on the Geek Out now?


----------



## jexby

I've had no volume resets with GO450 running v1.5 firmware.
This has been on a Mac.

That being said- still always check the volume the first time GO450 plugs into a new system or USB port.


----------



## frankrondaniel

I've likewise been fine with the 450 on my Windows 7 machine with the latest FW. But also like jexby, I always verify volume before use.


----------



## doctorjazz

I have the GO SE and 1k, could be me (likely is), but I still have problems with the volume. There is a LH app on the PC, it has a volume control slider. It's the only way I found to control the volume (use JRIVER as player), and it still often resets to maximum volume, so, if I'm not careful, I get a dangerous blast. Usually when starting up. I've read that people control the volume in other ways, but I haven't found out how. (one of my problems with LH is how spread out information can be, making it hard to find information or know what's going on with them). Having said that, find the1K to be a sweet sounding little box, and the SE to be quite amazing sounding.


----------



## jahmed1

I just leave the volume in the app as it is, and control volume using Windows master volume from Windows toolbar, and for more controls, in separate apps after it. Controlling in the Geek Out app is dangerous, as I got a blast too.


----------



## doctorjazz

No Other volume control seems to work...my other issue is using it as line out. Tried it with Koss 950, which has its own dedicated amp, and I was under the impression that if LH app volume slider is at maximum, it works as line out to external amp. Well, PC crashed, GO SE stopped working and, had to reboot and reset everything.


----------



## campj

I'm not entirely sure why people are saying that GO1000 isn't good for IEMs... I thought there was a low impedance (0.47ohm) headphone jack? Wouldn't that work fine with IEMs? 
  
 I use IEMs and full sized cans, so I'm having a little difficulty deciding which model would be best for me.


----------



## longbowbbs

campj said:


> I'm not entirely sure why people are saying that GO1000 isn't good for IEMs... I thought there was a low impedance (0.47ohm) headphone jack? Wouldn't that work fine with IEMs?
> 
> I use IEMs and full sized cans, so I'm having a little difficulty deciding which model would be best for me.


 
 I have had no problem with the GO1000 with my JH16's or my ACS T1's. I use it all the time.


----------



## campj

Do you put the IEMs in the 0.47ohm jack? I have Westone UM Pro 30 and my concern is blowing a driver (or my ears) with a sudden unexpected surge of volume.


----------



## longbowbbs

campj said:


> Do you put the IEMs in the 0.47ohm jack? I have Westone UM Pro 30 and my concern is blowing a driver (or my ears) with a sudden unexpected surge of volume.


 
 I always use the .47 for iem's. Never had a problem.


----------



## gikigill

Same here, use the JH16 all the time with the Geek 1000.


----------



## germay0653

kostaszag said:


> It all depends on where you live. I see you are located in Wisconsin, right? I understand the climate is quite cold, or at least cool most of the time. Now, if you lived in a place with tropical or otherwise hot climate, like say Singapore or Greece (where I come from), that would be a completely different situation and what you now feel as "warm but not uncomfortably hot" could become really uncomfortable.


 

 Does it really matter where you live, warm or cold?  If you use the device in building you have temperature control, heating and air conditioning, so it really shouldn't matter!


----------



## kostaszag

germay0653 said:


> kostaszag said:
> 
> 
> > It all depends on where you live. I see you are located in Wisconsin, right? I understand the climate is quite cold, or at least cool most of the time. Now, if you lived in a place with tropical or otherwise hot climate, like say Singapore or Greece (where I come from), that would be a completely different situation and what you now feel as "warm but not uncomfortably hot" could become really uncomfortable.
> ...


 

 Well, it is not always that easy. I come from Greece, where summers can be very hot by european standards, especially in my home town of Larissa temperatures of +40C are not uncommon in the Summer. At home I had no air conditioning and in the summer months I had issues with my amplifier a Densen DM 10 which can get VERY hot when it is on (that didn't stop me from listening to music off course). Many other people in Greece have no air conditioning or if they have turn it on only for a few hours a day for economical reasons. In Italy I saw the same situation, i.e. not everyone has air conditioning.
 I would like to note though, that I did use a Geek Out 450 in Greece last summer and it did not get uncomfortably hot.


----------



## germay0653

kostaszag said:


> Well, it is not always that easy. I come from Greece, where summers can be very hot by european standards, especially in my home town of Larissa temperatures of +40C are not uncommon in the Summer. At home I had no air conditioning and in the summer months I had issues with my amplifier a Densen DM 10 which can get VERY hot when it is on (that didn't stop me from listening to music off course). Many other people in Greece have no air conditioning or if they have turn it on only for a few hours a day for economical reasons. In Italy I saw the same situation, i.e. not everyone has air conditioning.
> I would like to note though, that I did use a Geek Out 450 in Greece last summer and it did not get uncomfortably hot.


 

 Understood, my apologies.


----------



## campj

longbowbbs said:


> campj said:
> 
> 
> > Do you put the IEMs in the 0.47ohm jack? I have Westone UM Pro 30 and my concern is blowing a driver (or my ears) with a sudden unexpected surge of volume.
> ...


 
 Thanks.


----------



## kostaszag

germay0653 said:


> kostaszag said:
> 
> 
> > Well, it is not always that easy. I come from Greece, where summers can be very hot by european standards, especially in my home town of Larissa temperatures of +40C are not uncommon in the Summer. At home I had no air conditioning and in the summer months I had issues with my amplifier a Densen DM 10 which can get VERY hot when it is on (that didn't stop me from listening to music off course). Many other people in Greece have no air conditioning or if they have turn it on only for a few hours a day for economical reasons. In Italy I saw the same situation, i.e. not everyone has air conditioning.
> ...


 

 No reason to apologise, just wanted to clarify this point.


----------



## Supperconductor

I just wanted to report the great results I've been getting using the GO 1000 in my home system. I'm listening to some DSD256 files from http://www.highdeftapetransfers.com (down sampled to PCM by Audirvana - it won't down sample to DSD128). I'm loving the sound but now think I need a dedicated home DSD DAC, possibly the iFi DSD Micro.


----------



## doctorjazz

I have the Geek Out 1K and the SE, have had trouble setting it up from my desktop to go line out, what would be the procedure? (a link would be fine, thanks)


----------



## Supperconductor

I'm just using a cable like this one from the Geek Out to my preamp.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420609350&sr=1-1&keywords=headphone+to+rca


----------



## doctorjazz

The question is more what settings to use with the Geek Out SE connected to a PC running JRiver. I recently got a Koss ESP-950, which comes with its own amp. Tried connecting to the Geek Out, with the Light Harmonic software volume slider at 0 (the loudest setting), which I thought was line out. Everything crashed, had to reboot computer, sound out of Koss was awful. Something in settings I'm missing. I also still have to use the LH slider to control volume, other volume controls don't work. Any help out there?


----------



## germay0653

doctorjazz said:


> The question is more what settings to use with the Geek Out SE connected to a PC running JRiver. I recently got a Koss ESP-950, which comes with its own amp. Tried connecting to the Geek Out, with the Light Harmonic software volume slider at 0 (the loudest setting), which I thought was line out. Everything crashed, had to reboot computer, sound out of Koss was awful. Something in settings I'm missing. I also still have to use the LH slider to control volume, other volume controls don't work. Any help out there?


 

 Couple of questions:
  
 Have you gone into the Control Panel >  Hardware and Sound > Manage Audio Devices and set the LH GO SE as the default device?
 What output where you using on the SE, the 47 Ohm or the .47 Ohm?
  
 Since you're feeding an amp you should probably use the 47 Ohm output. Try lowering the volume using the Master and/or Analog sliders in the LH Control Panel to see if that sounds better.  The Koss amp, based on the specs, can be driven to full power with a 1V output and I know the SE outputs more than that which is why I suggest lowering the volume in the LH Control Panel which should lower the output voltage coming from the GO SE to the Koss amp.


----------



## doctorjazz

[COLOR=FF00AA]Have you gone into the Control Panel > Hardware and Sound > Manage Audio Devices and set the LH GO SE as the default device?[/COLOR]

Yes-there are a number of different options for the Geek Out, have tried them all

[COLOR=FF00AA]What output where you using on the SE, the 47 Ohm or the .47 Ohm?[/COLOR]

was using 47, tend to use that for full size headphones, 0.47 for iems, but I'll often try it with easy to drive headphones

[COLOR=FF00AA]Since you're feeding an amp you should probably use the 47 Ohm output. Try lowering the volume using the Master and/or Analog sliders in the LH Control Panel to see if that sounds better. The Koss amp, based on the specs, can be driven to full power with a 1V output and I know the SE outputs more than that which is why I suggest lowering the volume in the LH Control Panel which should lower the output voltage coming from the GO SE to the Koss amp.[/COLOR]

Hmmm...sort of makes sense, but I thought there was a way to set the Geek Out so it is line out, completely avoiding the volume of the GO. I seem to recall the 0 on the slider working that way, but I could be remembering incorrectly (judging by my results, seems likely I'm getting something wrong).

Thanks for the response.


----------



## germay0653

doctorjazz said:


> Have you gone into the Control Panel > Hardware and Sound > Manage Audio Devices and set the LH GO SE as the default device?
> 
> Yes-there are a number of different options for the Geek Out, have tried them all
> 
> ...


 

 The GO 1000, which is what the base for the SE is, outputs a max of 4.4V on the line out when volume is set to 0..  Hopefully, lowering the volume in the LH Control will reduce the output voltage so it doesn't overload the Koss amp.  You might want to open a ticket with LH and pose that question to confirm.


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, I'll give it a try, like the Koss headphones, pity not to hear them through the GO SE (been using them with the Pono player instead, which ain't half bad...really nice little player, supplanted "I" devices, Fiio X3, iBasso DX90. I wonder how the LH Wave will compare. Should be better considering the cost differential-of course with LH, cost depends on the choice of many options for the unit-but Neil Young/Ayre little player is really nice sounding. Just sayin')


----------



## zerodeefex

My SE is 2V. Not all SEs are 4V. You had the option to pick.


----------



## doctorjazz

I don't remember picking, but could be just my oncoming Alzheimers


----------



## likearake

So how hot does this baby actually get?
  
 I've been reading reviews and one noted ~40 degrees celcius, the other noted 70 degrees!
  
 70 degrees makes it a bit more difficult for me to imagine using in a somewhat portable scenario...


----------



## doctorjazz

Mine gets hot enough to note when I touch it, but not enough to cause discomfort (haven't actually measured it), if that's a help. Shouldn't make it unsuitable for portable use.


----------



## likearake

doctorjazz said:


> Mine gets hot enough to note when I touch it, but not enough to cause discomfort (haven't actually measured it), if that's a help. Shouldn't make it unsuitable for portable use.


 
  
 Thanks!
  
 In my mind 40 is like a hot day and you could comfortable handle it despite it being hot, whereas 70 would be very uncomfortable to touch...


----------



## miceblue

I don't know about the exact temperatures, but my GO 1000 is like holding a Starbucks coffee.


----------



## doctorjazz

miceblue said:


> I don't know about the exact temperatures, but my GO 1000 is like holding a Starbucks coffee.




Holding my SE now, to continue the Starbucks metaphor, I'd say mine is like holding a cup of Starbucks coffee WITH the cardboard ring placed on it-still feel that it's hot, but not uncomfortable to hold...
I'm not sure they all heat up to the same degree, though, reading these posts...


----------



## pbear

doctorjazz said:


> Holding my SE now, to continue the Starbucks metaphor, I'd say mine is like holding a cup of Starbucks coffee WITH the cardboard ring placed on it-still feel that it's hot, but not uncomfortable to hold...
> I'm not sure they all heat up to the same degree, though, reading these posts...


 
  
 How much the GO heats up also depends on how it's being powered. My GO IEM 100 gets warm but not uncomfortably hot when using a 2G split cable with the power end connected to the LPS (and a USB B female to USB A female adapter on the GO end). If I connect the power end to an iPad 12W adapter instead, it gets uncomfortably hot.


----------



## doctorjazz

Don't know what to make of it, but I'm connected directly to a Vaunix Lab Brick powered hub.


----------



## Supperconductor

doctorjazz said:


> The question is more what settings to use with the Geek Out SE connected to a PC running JRiver. I recently got a Koss ESP-950, which comes with its own amp. Tried connecting to the Geek Out, with the Light Harmonic software volume slider at 0 (the loudest setting), which I thought was line out. Everything crashed, had to reboot computer, sound out of Koss was awful. Something in settings I'm missing. I also still have to use the LH slider to control volume, other volume controls don't work. Any help out there?


 
 Hi doctorjazz,
  
 My set up is:
 Mac (OS X.10.1) -> Audirvana+ 2.08 -> Audio Research LS-25 (set to minimum gain, IIRC 6 dB) -> Emerald Physics EP100.2 SE (set up as mono blocks)
  
 I set Audirvana to max volume on the Geek Out 1000. I guess the AR LS-25 has enough headroom that I don't get any signs of overloading its inputs.
  
 I presume you are using JRiver on a Windows PC. In that case, with the latest Windows driver (http://lhlabs.com/support/geek-out.html) , have you set up the ASIO driver so that you get acceptable sound with headphones directly from the Geek Out? After that, you can begin getting the rest of the connections working.
  
 Regarding the JRiver volume vs. LH slider volume, I'll have to defer to other members here to determine the preferred set up. To my thinking, I ***think*** it would be best to leave JRiver volume set to maximum (presuming that is bit-perfect) and adjust output using the LH slider for best possible sound.


----------



## doctorjazz

Hmmm, mostly I use my PC, and don't have a choice. The only volume that works IS the LH slider. Nothing happens with the Windows volume control or the JRiver control. I'm not sure it's using the latest Windows driver, there was a change when they changed the "awsomefier" buttons to the filter change control, and that is the last time I did download drivers, if there is a newer set, worth checking out,
Have an aging iMac as well, but it's slow as molasses, have to reboot constantly to do anything on it. Some programs keep insisting I install, but nothing happens when I do, keep getting the same error message. Have JRiver for the iMac as well, and some other music software, but mostly use my PC-iMac is in my living room, anyway, rather just use my stereo.
Thanks for the input.


----------



## vhsownsbeta

GO 450 vs 1000 for mrspeakers Alpha Primes?

I will also utilise line out to an amp sometimes...


----------



## gikigill

No question, Geek Out 1000.


----------



## miceblue

vhsownsbeta said:


> GO 450 vs 1000 for mrspeakers Alpha Primes?
> 
> I will also utilise line out to an amp sometimes...



It depends on the type of music you listen to really. With very quiet recordings and listening to music at medium volume levels, the Geek Out 450 provides just enough juice for my 669 Ω AKG K240 Monitors (86 db/mW efficiency). I think for most music, the GO 450 is just fine. The Alpha Dog (not Prime) needs 0.92 mW of power at 47 Ω to reach 90 dB SPL, which shouldn't be a problem for the GO 450 (which approximately outputs 15.3 mW at 47 Ω, enough to bring the Alpha Dogs to 102 dB SPL). I'd only recommend the GO 1000 if you listen to quiet recordings really loud.



[rule]
All righty, I've been doing some testing between the Geek Out on my MacBook Pro and the Geek Out with the Geek LPS4.


Between the two connection options, the LPS definitely improves the instrument separation and the overall blackness of the background, which improves the imaging. Another noticeable difference I hear is an improved bass extension with bass that's a little more present, which may give the sense of better dynamics in my music.

These are only impressions after about an hour's worth of listening and I plan to do some more testing later. In the mean time, here's Something New for ya.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czWPzfeB7TY[/video]



A free FLAC/ALAC download from his Bandcamp page:
http://kubbi.bandcamp.com/album/something-new


----------



## vhsownsbeta

miceblue said:


> It depends on the type of music you listen to really.



Thanks for the reply. Would there be any disadvantage in 'future proofing' with the 1000, apart from cost? Signature and line out performance is the same?


----------



## miceblue

vhsownsbeta said:


> Thanks for the reply. Would there be any disadvantage in 'future proofing' with the 1000, apart from cost? Signature and line out performance is the same?



The only disadvantage is that it outputs ~4 VRMS for the line out instead of ~2.68 VRMS for the GO 450, so you would need to make sure your equipment can handle the higher voltage if you want a bit-perfect output into your amplifier.

Other than that, they sound identical to me really. LH did a good job at preserving the audio quality between each GO model.


----------



## Lohb

miceblue said:


> It depends on the type of music you listen to really. With very quiet recordings and listening to music at medium volume levels, the Geek Out 450 provides just enough juice for my 669 Ω AKG K240 Monitors (86 db/mW efficiency). I think for most music, the GO 450 is just fine. The Alpha Dog (not Prime) needs 0.92 mW of power at 47 Ω to reach 90 dB SPL, which shouldn't be a problem for the GO 450 (which approximately outputs 15.3 mW at 47 Ω, enough to bring the Alpha Dogs to 102 dB SPL). I'd only recommend the GO 1000 if you listen to quiet recordings really loud.
> 
> All righty, I've been doing some testing between the Geek Out on my MacBook Pro and the Geek Out with the Geek LPS4.
> 
> ...


 

 Is the LPS bringing any more tech for its price than say, a portable Energizer battery with linear voltage add-on plug to deliver clean consistent isolated power  ?


----------



## miceblue

lohb said:


> Is the LPS bringing any more tech for its price than say, a portable Energizer battery with linear voltage add-on plug to deliver clean consistent isolated power  ?



Good question. I'm not sure myself, but others have said:


fayeforever said:


> Generally speaking the battery is not as liner as regulated LPS, has higher output impedance, not worth the hassle IMO.
> You can definitely try it out.





bitsnbytes said:


> I'm not an EE but the amp rating from the PSU should at least match the equipment's requirement (on the Pulse). The 1.2a means you need to have a PSU with at least 1.2a (you can go 1.5a or 2.0a etc) but don't go overboard with something like 5 etc unless the psu is powering other equipment at the same time.
> 
> Battery--different makes will have different discharges and when you are nearly drained of juice it will drop quickly. If you use rechargeables, the juice is usually less than rated and they degrade with use.
> 
> Those more knowledgeable than I please correct me.


----------



## miceblue

Looks like the Geek LPS has some issues with the GO if you turn on the LPS with the GO plugged in.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuWswPLKyK4[/video]

Step 1: Turn off Geek LPS
Step 2: Plug in Geek Out into Geek LPS
Step 3: Turn on Geek LPS (Geek Out should not have the LEDs properly lit)
Step 4: Unplug and replug Geek Out


----------



## vhsownsbeta

I am trying to get my head around bit loss due to the digital volume control with Geek Out. If I attenuate line out on a GO1000 to 2vrms will I see bit loss playing 24bit files?


----------



## chartwell85

vhsownsbeta said:


> I am trying to get my head around bit loss due to the digital volume control with Geek Out. If I attenuate line out on a GO1000 to 2vrms will I see bit loss playing 24bit files?


 

 What software are you using?


----------



## vhsownsbeta

chartwell85 said:


> What software are you using?


 

 Audirvana 1.5


----------



## ejong7

Don't know if this happens to any of you but when I use the slacker at a certain angle the ports will just disconnect and it'll say it cant initialize driver. I assume its due to the height of the usb port from the bottom of the laptop (bout 1.5cm)


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, put in a ticket and posted on the LH site, but might as well ask for all the help I can get. Have GO 1K and SE, were working fine (well, never completely resolved the volume issue, if disconnected, went back to default maximum volume, had to use LH app volume control all the time, but, I got used to these...), yesterday, just stopped working. PC/JRiver doesn't recognize them, LH app says no device is connected, and I get no sound. The JRiver list of output devices in the settings lost the choices for the Geek except for Geek Out ASOI (it had 4+, I forget exactly, previously). I rebooted, same deal. I also use Pono Player (which is slightly modified/rebranded JRiver, same thing. The Geek Outs do light up and get hot, but not sure what to do to get them to play again.
Any ideas out there? Much appreciated.


----------



## whereas

Just wanted to contribute that I have the 450 and it sounds amazing with my Denon D5000s. This is my first "sorta" high-end DAC, and there is a legitimate difference between my previous DACs and this one. I'm comparing it to the Audioengine D1, Audioengine D3, Dragonfly 1.2, Cowon X9, etc.
  
 It feels like my headphones are plugged into an actual "big" piece of hardware with a wide open, powerful sound. Couldn't be happier with mine, and $199 is a great price for it.


----------



## doctorjazz

Well, it is a holiday weekend, bbut so far, after putting in a ticket with LH Labs, posting there on a forum, and here, haven't gotten a single bit of help. Made me hesitant to go for the Pulse package, and didn't order in the end (I went for Soul Tube, but was also in the market for a desktop unit). It often seems like I'm stranded with this gear...


----------



## vhsownsbeta

doctorjazz said:


> OK, put in a ticket and posted on the LH site, but might as well ask for all the help I can get. Have GO 1K and SE, were working fine (well, never completely resolved the volume issue, if disconnected, went back to default maximum volume, had to use LH app volume control all the time, but, I got used to these...), yesterday, just stopped working. PC/JRiver doesn't recognize them, LH app says no device is connected, and I get no sound. The JRiver list of output devices in the settings lost the choices for the Geek except for Geek Out ASOI (it had 4+, I forget exactly, previously). I rebooted, same deal. I also use Pono Player (which is slightly modified/rebranded JRiver, same thing. The Geek Outs do light up and get hot, but not sure what to do to get them to play again.
> Any ideas out there? Much appreciated.




So both your 1K and SE are having the same issue? Strange. If you are using a slacker cable then that would be my first suspect...


----------



## doctorjazz

I tried different cableshave the Audioquest), even plugged right into usb, nada. Suspect a driver issue, next I'll try reinstalling them.


----------



## doctorjazz

But what do I know?


----------



## pbear

doctorjazz said:


> But what do I know?


 
 Have you tried a different USB port, or plugging in other non-Geek devices to the same USB port?


----------



## doctorjazz

Yeah, have a powered usb, connected to other ports as well, nothing.


----------



## Lceaucx

Actually sounds more like a USB port problem than an issue with the Geek. Doesnt make sense for both the 1k and the SE to fail at the same time. Have you tried using them with another computer, or tried using other USB devices with your computer?


----------



## doctorjazz

Well, I don't think it is a usb issue, the JRiver settings that has output devices not only doesn't recognize, it lost the options to select them that were in there (except for 1, Geek Out ASIO). (I do agree that since both the SE and 1K are involved, not likely it is a problem with either unit). I did try on more than 1 usb, unless the computer entire usb is corrupted (in which case, wouldn't I have printer/keyboard/screen issues?). It makes sense to try on another computer, but I still need it to wrk on the PC I keep my music on. Thanks for the suggestions, though, I'll have to open a laptop and try it there.


----------



## teofilrocks

I've heard the Geek Out 1000 sounds nice driving Sennheisers, but will it be too powerful for the TH600, which is 25-ohms? Want obe able to use more than 3-clicks of volume control.


----------



## longbowbbs

teofilrocks said:


> I've heard the Geek Out 1000 sounds nice driving Sennheisers, but will it be too powerful for the TH600, which is 25-ohms? Want obe able to use more than 3-clicks of volume control.


 
 It is not too powerful for the HD650's I have room on the amp with those headphones.


----------



## teofilrocks

longbowbbs said:


> It is not too powerful for the HD650's I have room on the amp with those headphones.


 
  
 Thanks for confirming that. How about the Fostex TH600? That's the one I'm concerned about, since it's only 25-ohms but with 94dB/mW sensitivity. I don't listen at high volumes.


----------



## longbowbbs

teofilrocks said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > It is not too powerful for the HD650's I have room on the amp with those headphones.
> ...


 
 I do not have the Fostex so I cannot comment directly. Remember that you do have a 47 ohm and a .47 ohm output to choose from on the GO.


----------



## doctorjazz

Just an update-I had posted about the GO's I have stopping working. Then they started working fitfully. I sent a ticket to LH, heard back 3-4 days later with the usual questions (OS, firmware updates, etc). In the meantime, just started working like it had. Didn't do anything, it was down about 4-5 days, beats me, weird.
As far as the Senn 650, I have those, can play them from the GO 1k, sound OK, but sound much better with a stronger amp (use the Ray Samuels HR-2). Same for Hifiman 560. Don't have the Fostex, though, can't comment on them.


----------



## ejong7

teofilrocks said:


> Thanks for confirming that. How about the Fostex TH600? That's the one I'm concerned about, since it's only 25-ohms but with 94dB/mW sensitivity. I don't listen at high volumes.


 

 I personally use the GO IEM100 with the TH900  (bout the same impedence and sensitivity) and it powers it to my comfortable listening levels at about 20% of the total 100% of the volume. Just as reference thats about two times the volume as when I'm using my Roxannes. YMMV.


----------



## longbowbbs

Geek Out 100IEM and the soon to be released Geek Verb IEM's


----------



## chartwell85

longbowbbs said:


> Geek Out 100IEM and the soon to be released Geek Verb IEM's
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## longbowbbs

chartwell85 said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > Geek Out 100IEM and the soon to be released Geek Verb IEM's
> ...


----------



## jexby

love the iFi iDSD micro in the photo shoot as well!
  
 hoping the Geek IEMs deliver over their price mark as well.


----------



## longbowbbs

jexby said:


> love the iFi iDSD micro in the photo shoot as well!
> 
> hoping the Geek IEMs deliver over their price mark as well.


 
 I am not suffering...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The Micro is a beast! 4W in Turbo mode. The Geek Out definitely holds its own at a similar output level. They really serve two different uses.


----------



## greenkiwi

cee tee said:


> ^Right...think you need something like a Lynx Hilo DAC & ADC.
> ADC = Analog to Digital Converter.  Also useful for digitizing vinyl albums to digital files (needledrops).




The Focusrite Scarlett ADC / DAC models are reasonably priced to for an analog to digital converter


----------



## jexby

longbowbbs said:


> I am not suffering...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 completely agree.  they are not competing products based on footprint/price/features.
  
 both are stellar products within their own sphere of influence.
  
 music. on.


----------



## longbowbbs

jexby said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > I am not suffering...
> ...


----------



## AxelCloris

Geek Verb? That seems like a strange name choice. I wonder what the reasoning behind it was.


----------



## nicolo

Since they have been buried by the avalanche of nouns and adjectives from us due to delays, they have decided to use verbs on us instead.


----------



## uncola

Verb like reverb I'd think.  Other cool grammar names:  Vermithrax Pejorative.  Anyone remember the movie Dragonslayer?


----------



## ejong7

Anybody having problems with the slacker they provided? It always disconnects my GO100 when its slightly moved. I tried my GO100 alone and it never does it.


----------



## doctorjazz

I have the same issue, but happens with the Audioquest version as well. Once it disconnects, when I reconnect, volume goes back to max, have to be very careful putting on headphones at this point. Sometimes it crashes JRiver as well, often works better to close JRiver, then reopen when I reconnect. Not completely worry-free....


----------



## ejong7

My volume remains the same though. It's just foobar will stop recognizing the device, then I'll have to plug it in at least twice before it registers again. It goes from something like "no driver detected" to "driver cant play XXXHz sample". Even for regular 16/44.1.


----------



## teofilrocks

Is this "max volume" bug still going on even with the latest driver? I'd like to get the GO1000, but not if I have to worry about stuff like that happening. Would just be using iTunes and Spotify.


----------



## doctorjazz

Yeah, it is the latest firmware...don't know how it gets along with iTunes or Spotify, just use it with JRiver or Pono 20 (which is JRiver slightly modified). I the "can't play the XXZ sample..." error, have to close and reopen JRiver, sometimes have to reboot computer, but not happening as often as previously. I'm very, very careful touching the GO so as to not disconnect it, especially plugging in headphones.


----------



## No_One411

teofilrocks said:


> Is this "max volume" bug still going on even with the latest driver? I'd like to get the GO1000, but not if I have to worry about stuff like that happening. Would just be using iTunes and Spotify.


 
  
 The volume spikes have not happened to me since the firmware V1.5 update...
  
 Just open up the LH control panel and make sure it is the current version, otherwise you should update it.


----------



## MrGuzmanWhite

teofilrocks said:


> Is this "max volume" bug still going on even with the latest driver? I'd like to get the GO1000, but not if I have to worry about stuff like that happening. Would just be using iTunes and Spotify.


 

 I would advise to be careful on buying LH Geek products. I have a Geek Out and the "volume" sets to max each time I hit play. If i select a different song, again goes to max volume. Indeed it is dangerous not just for the headphone but for the hearing. It is possible to get hearing damage, the volume is that loud. This problem happens with Spotify, with iTunes and with Beats Music, always running from the MacBook air.
  
 I contacted LH labs, and their response and assistance was unsatisfactory. I still have the problem. They are a small company that is overloaded and have a difficult time to support the demand. I run only Macs in my business and at home and it seems that the GO firmware can only be updated with windows computers, so I can't judge if a firmware update will resolve this problem. But I can tell you that the volume problem I have now with the Geek Out did not happen before when I bought it, so it is probably caused from a problem of the Geek out firmware with the laptop software that was not happening before.


----------



## MrGuzmanWhite

ejong7 said:


> Anybody having problems with the slacker they provided? It always disconnects my GO100 when its slightly moved. I tried my GO100 alone and it never does it.


 

 The GO slacker is of very, very poor quality. I advise you to get this one (or similar)
  
Mediabridge USB 2.0 - USB Extension Cable (6 Inches) - A Male to A Female with Gold-Plated Contacts
  
 It works much much better and it is of much better quality, the fit and the feel. Since I bought it I don't have USB problems with the GO anymore.


----------



## jexby

I have been using my GO450 (firmware v1.5) for weeks on macbook pro, with zero volume "sets to max" bug happening.
 so yes- their new firmware does fix the issues.
 ask a Windows friend to borrow their PC for all of 5 minutes to apply the update- very much worth it.
  
 Note:  the volume reset to 0dB still might happen if you move the GeekOut to different USB ports or on hubs, as it changes the "address" where the OS recognizes the DAC and thinks it's a new device.
 there are other vendors that warn about "the first time you plug in their DAC to USB port" the volume may be 0dB and check/verify before using.
 the issue seems to be as much about our computer operating systems remembering settings as the DAC itself.


----------



## miceblue

In Windows I still have volume issues with the latest firmware, yes (although I'm using the Windows 10 Technical Preview, so my experience may be different). On Mac, no issues whatsoever.

In Windows, the media control buttons on my keyboard don't do anything except mute, so I manually adjust the volume in the LH Control Panel, which is really cumbersome.


----------



## atsq17

mrguzmanwhite said:


> I would advise to be careful on buying LH Geek products. I have a Geek Out and the "volume" sets to max each time I hit play. If i select a different song, again goes to max volume. Indeed it is dangerous not just for the headphone but for the hearing. It is possible to get hearing damage, the volume is that loud. This problem happens with Spotify, with iTunes and with Beats Music, always running from the MacBook air.
> 
> I contacted LH labs, and their response and assistance was unsatisfactory. I still have the problem. They are a small company that is overloaded and have a difficult time to support the demand. I run only Macs in my business and at home and it seems that the GO firmware can only be updated with windows computers, so I can't judge if a firmware update will resolve this problem. But I can tell you that the volume problem I have now with the Geek Out did not happen before when I bought it, so it is probably caused from a problem of the Geek out firmware with the laptop software that was not happening before.


 
  
 Don't you know anyone with a Windows laptop that you can borrow for a few minutes?


----------



## pearljam50000

I'm sorry for the *Ignorance​*, but with the AKG K550 should i use the 47ohm or 0.47ohm?


----------



## teofilrocks

pearljam50000 said:


> I'm sorry for the [COLOR=545454]*Ignorance*[/COLOR]​, but with the AKG K550 should i use the 47ohm or 0.47ohm?



0.47


----------



## doctorjazz

As I posted earlier, did the update, use a Windows 7 Professional PC, the issue happens whenever the GO (have 1K and SE) is disconnected, deliberately or inadvertently (which easily happens). Volume defaults to max, have to be really careful. I also have the volume control that only works in the LH app, with the slider, no other volume control works. not the PC, not the JRiver controls, bit of a PITA. Also, have an issue since I've gotten them, if I change headphones, I seem to get some power surge in the usb hub, and JRiver crashes, won't play, get an error message that the selected output (whichever it is, Waspii or others) is not correct, won't play until I reboot computer usually. (has happened both directly into usb of computer, or when plugged into Vaunix Lab Brick powered external USB, which I usually use). I've recently gotten another intermittent problem, where the GO plays, but the sound is really distorted, has the sound of playing a vinyl record when the stylus if covered with dust (if anyone remembers or has heard that sound). Comes and goes, not sure what relates to it, unlistenable when it does happen. In the past, tickets to LH haven't gotten me anywhere. I did just receive an email last night from Tami, who has taken over the Help section, seems like, and, at least from the initial contact I received from her, she may take this customer service business a bit more seriously than LH labs has done up until now. Of course, I'll know when something actually is taken care of, but at least I didn't feel "blown off" as I often have using the old Ticket system.
Fingers crossed....


----------



## teofilrocks

It's a bit disconcerting these reports, but I'll just have to wait and see how my GO1000 goes. I guess that's one of the benefits of optical, no drivers.


----------



## uncola

I'm easily amused


----------



## teofilrocks

I'm guessing I'm not the only one who is having difficulty updating to the latest firmware? Keeps timing out with an error code. LH Labs forum has a couple threads stating the same, but no common solution. Anyone here have success after first having failure? Running Win 8.1, with latest LH driver.

Edit: No one suggested running the firmware updating app as administrator, but I just tried that and it did the trick.


----------



## Stephan

So with the version 1.5 firmware, is the 3D awesomifier gone? Or can it still be enabled?


----------



## jbr1971

stephan said:


> So with the version 1.5 firmware, is the 3D awesomifier gone? Or can it still be enabled?


 
  
 As mentioned in the changelog for v1.5, the 3D Awesomifier has been removed to free up CPU resources for the new digital filters.
  
 The only way to get it back is to reflash the Geek Out with the v1.0 firmware, however that negates all of the bug fixes (volume, etc).


----------



## CEE TEE

3D awesomeifier with new firmware is gone, but the sound of v1.5 is worth it.  I was one of the people that thought it was a good crossfeed implementation.
 If you want to have some fun with DSP, listen to some samples of Darin Fong's Out of Your Head Software.  
 I enjoy Macbook > OOYH Software > Geek Out > Fidelio X1 for movies/shows.  I have three presets:  Acoustic Zen, Quad ESL Speakers, Sasha Speakers.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Geek Out + New Firmware (1.5) + New Driver (2.23) = A different animal.
  
 Feeding it with LPS4 + 2G Cable puts a smile in my face. Seems its a desktop DAC/AMP.


----------



## MikeyFresh

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Geek Out + New Firmware (1.5) + New Driver (2.23) = A different animal.
> 
> Feeding it with LPS4 + 2G Cable puts a smile in my face. Seems its a desktop DAC/AMP.


 

 +1, I just finally did this update myself after waiting to no avail for a Mac compatible DFU, I updated the driver, and the firmware on my GO1000 using a W7 machine and the sound quality boost is clearly evident.
  
 Unfortunately my LPS4 had to back to LH Labs on RMA for the ground loop buzz issue, so for now I'm using an iFi iUSBPower to cleanse the computer power and ground.


----------



## doctorjazz

I've been having various problems with GO Special Edition for the longest time, did the upgrade, mostly solved (though I STILL can only control the volume from the slider in the LH Labs app)
Keeping my fingers crossed....


----------



## miceblue

mikeyfresh said:


> Unfortunately my LPS4 had to back to LH Labs on RMA for the ground loop buzz issue, so for now I'm using an iFi iUSBPower to cleanse the computer power and ground.



Ah, you had that issue too? Jody forwarded my buzzing LPS4 issue to Larry so hopefully I'll have a proper technical explanation within the next day or so.

As for the GO, I still have to adjust the master volume in the LH Control Panel. The analogue volume slider, and thus the Windows volume slider and my keyboard's volume keys, don't do anything regarding the volume. I'm running on Windows 10 though so that might be part of the problem. Larry previously stated that volume settings with Windows 8 were funky. XD


----------



## GettingBuckets

Alright I just bought the GO 1000 off of Amazon, and I'm having issues already. I have a Macbook and plugged it into the USB and switched the audio output to the DAC. However, all I hear from my headphones is a weird crackling/buzzing noise. I tried searching through the thread, but there's too many pages. Anybody familiar with this issue?


----------



## miceblue

gettingbuckets said:


> Alright I just bought the GO 1000 off of Amazon, and I'm having issues already. I have a Macbook and plugged it into the USB and switched the audio output to the DAC. However, all I hear from my headphones is a weird crackling/buzzing noise. I tried searching through the thread, but there's too many pages. Anybody familiar with this issue?



First thing that everyone is going to say, did you try a different USB port? Sometimes a USB port may not provide enough current to the GO and will thus sound messed up (one of my older computers does that).

Second thing that may seem dumb to ask, but did you listen to the headphones immediately after plugging in the GO to your computer, or did you wait until after 10 seconds have passed? The GO needs some time to charge up its capacitors, so if you plug in your headphones right away, you'll hear a crackling/static sound for the first few seconds, which probably isn't good for your headphones.


If those don't work, then you may have received a faulty unit.


----------



## teofilrocks

If I recall correctly, on my BootCamp'd iMac (Win 7 Pro) the system volume slider and volume keys on the Mac keyboard adjust analogue volume in the LH CP. In OSX (Yosemite) it adjusts master volume and analogue stays at max. Not sure if that's expected behavior.


----------



## jbr1971

gettingbuckets said:


> Alright I just bought the GO 1000 off of Amazon, and I'm having issues already. I have a Macbook and plugged it into the USB and switched the audio output to the DAC. However, all I hear from my headphones is a weird crackling/buzzing noise. I tried searching through the thread, but there's too many pages. Anybody familiar with this issue?


 
  
 Do you have it plugged directly into the computer USB port, or are you using the slacker USB cable?
  
 If you are using the slacker USB cable, try a direct connection.


----------



## MikeyFresh

miceblue said:


> Ah, you had that issue too? Jody forwarded my buzzing LPS4 issue to Larry so hopefully I'll have a proper technical explanation within the next day or so.
> 
> As for the GO, I still have to adjust the master volume in the LH Control Panel. The analogue volume slider, and thus the Windows volume slider and my keyboard's volume keys, don't do anything regarding the volume. I'm running on Windows 10 though so that might be part of the problem. Larry previously stated that volume settings with Windows 8 were funky. XD


 

 My LPS4 will land in CA tomorrow according to FedEx tracking, but I'm very interested in any technical explanation provided to you or any other members.
  
 The only other member who returned his LPS on RMA to my knowledge simpy had another one shipped right out to him, without any explanation or confirmation of what was was in fact wrong with the first one, excepting a vague statement about the problem affecting a small number of units in a narrow serial # range. We'll see.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

With my slight experience on my LPS4, I was introduced on how clean power really affects sound. Yesterday was choosing how I will plug my MIT SL Z‐Cord 3fp. Plugged to AVR in comparison to the wall outlet have very distinct results.  That is using still LPS4 as power source.
  
 Now looking at that Furman voltage regulator + line conditioner....
  
 When will this upgrades ever end.....


----------



## germay0653

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> With my slight experience on my LPS4, I was introduced on how clean power really affects sound. Yesterday was choosing how I will plug my MIT SL Z‐Cord 3fp. Plugged to AVR in comparison to the wall outlet have very distinct results.  That is using still LPS4 as power source.
> 
> Now looking at that Furman voltage regulator + line conditioner....
> 
> When will this upgrades ever end.....


 

 No, you're hooked!


----------



## GettingBuckets

Thanks for the helps. It was sort of random because it kept doing that, but it's good to go now.


----------



## doctorjazz

Hey, I've been using the Vaunix Lab Brick USB hub, plug the Geek Out (1K or Special Edition) in. Sometimes I get a power surge, and crash the system-JRiver 19 (Windows 7Professional) won't play anything, sometimes closing and reopening it helps, sometimes I have to reboot. The folks at LH thought the hub could be the cause, I I'm back to plugging directly into PC usb. I had purchased the Jays Audio LPS, thinking I could use it to power the GO, but I don't see how to do it. I'm guessing it's back to some special cable or adapter or something, as there's no usb on the Jays LPS. It has the round connector, think it's the kind you'd use on one of these heavy 2 piece power cords that you'd use for, say, a laptop. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## jbr1971

doctorjazz said:


> Hey, I've been using the Vaunix Lab Brick USB hub, plug the Geek Out (1K or Special Edition) in. Sometimes I get a power surge, and crash the system-JRiver 19 (Windows 7Professional) won't play anything, sometimes closing and reopening it helps, sometimes I have to reboot. The folks at LH thought the hub could be the cause, I I'm back to plugging directly into PC usb. I had purchased the Jays Audio LPS, thinking I could use it to power the GO, but I don't see how to do it. I'm guessing it's back to some special cable or adapter or something, as there's no usb on the Jays LPS. It has the round connector, think it's the kind you'd use on one of these heavy 2 piece power cords that you'd use for, say, a laptop. Anyone have any ideas?


 
  
 From what I have seen of the Jay's Audio LPS (I don't have one), I don't see how it would work with the Geek Out.
  
 Maybe a Schiit Wyrd, iFi USB, or similar?


----------



## miceblue

jbr1971 said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > Hey, I've been using the Vaunix Lab Brick USB hub, plug the Geek Out (1K or Special Edition) in. Sometimes I get a power surge, and crash the system-JRiver 19 (Windows 7Professional) won't play anything, sometimes closing and reopening it helps, sometimes I have to reboot. The folks at LH thought the hub could be the cause, I I'm back to plugging directly into PC usb. I had purchased the Jays Audio LPS, thinking I could use it to power the GO, but I don't see how to do it. I'm guessing it's back to some special cable or adapter or something, as there's no usb on the Jays LPS. It has the round connector, think it's the kind you'd use on one of these heavy 2 piece power cords that you'd use for, say, a laptop. Anyone have any ideas?
> ...



Yeah...I'm kind of puzzled as to why one would get the Jay Audio LPS if it doesn't have a USB output.
http://alvinchc.blogspot.com/


----------



## doctorjazz

Now that I've done it, I'm puzzled as well. I assumed, as it was being grabbed up on the Pulse Thread, that it had a way to connect to it, which I assumed was a usb. I may have gotten myself a nice, relatively expensive paper weight (wouldn't be thd first time  )


----------



## vhsownsbeta

doctorjazz said:


> I'm guessing it's back to some special cable or adapter or something, as there's no usb on the Jays LPS. It has the round connector, think it's the kind you'd use on one of these heavy 2 piece power cords that you'd use for, say, a laptop. Anyone have any ideas?


 

 I guess you could use one of these with a male-female adapter?
  
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-5-5mm-2-1mm-Hi-Speed-Barrel/dp/B009049PUI
  
 EDIT: Or one of these with the original cable...
  
http://www.amazon.com/Okeler-Female-5-5x2-1mm-Supply-Extension/dp/B00EY7YFF6/ref=pd_sim_e_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=1TA9TP3ZTX3QAZMA8MJ5


----------



## doctorjazz

Looking at that link, they have the Jays LPS, and even feature it pictured with a Geek Out. But, I don't see how that can work.


----------



## doctorjazz

vhsownsbeta said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > I'm guessing it's back to some special cable or adapter or something, as there's no usb on the Jays LPS. It has the round connector, think it's the kind you'd use on one of these heavy 2 piece power cords that you'd use for, say, a laptop. Anyone have any ideas?
> ...



But, I would still need to connect to my PC to get the music to the GO, some sort of Y connector, I guess...?


----------



## vhsownsbeta

doctorjazz said:


> But, I would still need to connect to my PC to get the music to the GO, some sort of Y connector, I guess...?


 

 Good point. I bought one of these to use my GO with an ipad and anker battery...
  
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/311224432345
  
 LOL all of these cables/adapters won't exactly make for an elegant solution though...


----------



## miceblue

doctorjazz said:


> Looking at that link, they have the Jays LPS, and even feature it pictured with a Geek Out. But, I don't see how that can work.



That's because the caption for those photos says:


> Size Comparison with LHLabs Geek Out




That blogger bought the Jay Audio LPS for the Geek Pulse, which uses a 5.5 mm DC barrel from the power source.


----------



## doctorjazz

Hmmmmm....good thing I can always use a paperweight!


----------



## jbr1971

doctorjazz said:


> Hmmmmm....good thing I can always use a paperweight!


 
  
 The Jays Audio LPS units seem to be pretty popular with the Head-fi crowd. Post it for sale, then use the money for a Schiit Wyrd or iFi USB.


----------



## doctorjazz

Good idea,thanks


----------



## germay0653

miceblue said:


> That's because the caption for those photos says:
> That blogger bought the Jay Audio LPS for the Geek Pulse, which uses a 5.5 mm DC barrel from the power source.


 

 If you have the 5V, not 12V, version you could build your own cable.  5.5 DC to female Type A USB then connect to the power leg of a split cable like the 2G.


----------



## uncola

the 5v jay's audio lps has both a usb a and barrel connector.  the one most people got was the 12v to power the geek pulse
  
 here's the 5v jay's audio lps..  you'd still need a split usb cable and maybe a female to male adapter


----------



## doctorjazz

Ah, that's what I needed.


----------



## fran

I've just done a similar job on my GO1000. I used a y cable I had from a HDD enclosure I bought ages back. I taped off the V+ pin on the input connector to the laptop, and then used one of those phone recharger batteries as the power supply on the other leg of the Y. Works great.


----------



## Earbones

Can anyone confirm if the GO IEM 100 will work with an iPad without resorting to y split USB cables and a standalone battery?.. 

On paper, it appears as if the 100 has a low enough draw that it should be plug and play with an Apple CCK. However you'd think LH would talk that up in the product description, and they don't... So maybe no? Searched for like three hours online to see if anybody had done it, and nothing.


----------



## vhsownsbeta

earbones said:


> Can anyone confirm if the GO IEM 100 will work with an iPad without resorting to y split USB cables and a standalone battery?..
> 
> On paper, it appears as if the 100 has a low enough draw that it should be plug and play with an Apple CCK. However you'd think LH would talk that up in the product description, and they don't... So maybe no? Searched for like three hours online to see if anybody had done it, and nothing.


 

 No. You will have to use an external battery, even with the GO100.
  

  
 Resonessence Labs Herus is directly compatible and plays DSD.


----------



## Earbones

Ugh. May be an unpopular thing to say, but that's stupid. The IEM 100 is just a stupid idea. I mean, I get the 450 and 1000, there's an excuse there for them To need an awkward workaround- they are designed to drive some serious headphones. But to make the IEM specific model not plug and play with mobile devices? Stupid. Just from a sales perspective. Well, that's frustrating. Guess it's down to the Herus+ or the HRT Microstreamer...


----------



## myemaildw

i don't know any dac that work without battery on iphone or ipad. even portable dacs need internal battery. and go needs 5v battery based on reviews. don't you need a usb hub between dac and ipad? according to reviews you can make it work without battery but it will drain ipad like at a rate of 1 percent per minute. i wouldn't want to strain my iphone battery like that cause that might make iphone hot from fast battery use. you would be buying new iphone battery pretty soon i would assume.


----------



## Earbones

myemaildw said:


> i don't know any dac that work without battery on iphone or ipad. even portable dacs need internal battery. and go needs 5v battery based on reviews. don't you need a usb hub between dac and ipad? according to reviews you can make it work without battery but it will drain ipad like at a rate of 1 percent per minute. i wouldn't want to strain my iphone battery like that cause that might make iphone hot from fast battery use. you would be buying new iphone battery pretty soon i would assume.



HRT Microstreamer, Resonessence Labs Herus and Herus+... I think there are a couple of other USB powered DAC/amps that play with phones and tablets with no issues, but I can't think of any right now... Bottom line, the IEM 100 should, it's power draw (at least on paper) appears to be within the limits set by Apple's engineering team. It's lame and frustrating, ha ha.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## Mojo777

Received my GO 1000 last night. Updated to 1.5 (which seems weird since it came from LH and was delivered with 1.0). Sound after a few hours really opened up and imo comes really close in sound signature to my OPPO-HA1. Makes sense since the framework of the DAC's are similar. Really drives my LCD-X's with ease (but so did my AQ DF 1.2)
  
 Things that could be better: the buttons don't need to rattle around. That seems pretty weak compared to other electronics I have regardless of usage.
  
 Now that I use the Mac to control volume I wanted to know if there is a way to have more steps in control. There is too much a leap from quiet listening to rocking out. Would like a step in between. I guess I could control Tidal's volume as well but it seems using two volumes in software seems wrong.


----------



## teofilrocks

mojo777 said:


> Received my GO 1000 last night. Updated to 1.5 (which seems weird since it came from LH and was delivered with 1.0). Sound after a few hours really opened up and imo comes really close in sound signature to my OPPO-HA1. Makes sense since the framework of the DAC's are similar. Really drives my LCD-X's with ease (but so did my AQ DF 1.2)
> 
> Things that could be better: the buttons don't need to rattle around. That seems pretty weak compared to other electronics I have regardless of usage.
> 
> Now that I use the Mac to control volume I wanted to know if there is a way to have more steps in control. There is too much a leap from quiet listening to rocking out. Would like a step in between. I guess I could control Tidal's volume as well but it seems using two volumes in software seems wrong.



I have similar feelings about the buttons. They don't have springs behind them apparently, so they aren't held tight against the chassis, thus the rattle. 

As for OSX volume control steps, are you referring to the keyboard control? If so, Option+Shift will make the volume buttons step up in smaller increments (1/4 steps IIRC).


----------



## zenpunk

Alt + Shift + volume control for quarter steps in Maverick or just use the volume slider.


----------



## Mojo777

why thank you!


----------



## miceblue

*phew...
Just uploaded my really long video review of the Geek Out

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H47kYhFY2K4[/video]




Spoiler: Table of Contents in case you don't want to sit through the whole video



Table of Contents:
0:28 - Official box overview
1:29 - Box contents
2:14 - Blue Geek Out 450 and Geek Out overview
2:45 - Red Geek Out 1000
3:02 - How the Geek Out started
3:27 - Light Harmonic history
4:08 - What the Geek Out was created for
4:52 - Volume buttons
5:19 - Firmware version 1.0 and its problems
6:18 - Firmware version 1.5 problem fixes
6:58 - Firmware 1.0's 3D Awesomeifier's high noise floor
7:19 - Firmware 1.5's digital filters
8:04 - Firmware 1.5's TCM filter
8:18 - Minimum phase filter technical explanation
9:51 - Firmware 1.5's FRM filter
10:03 - FIR versus IIR filter technical explanation
10:44 - Slow roll-off filter technical explanation
11:32 - Firmware 1.5's FRM versus TCM objective measurements
12:01 - Sound quality disclaimers
12:15 - Technical explanation between firmwares 1.0 and 1.5
13:00 - Geek Out 450 versus Geek Out 1000 overall sound differences
13:37 - Should you get multiple Geek Out units?
14:22 - Geek Out 450 background hiss issue
14:48 - Geek Out 450 objective measurements
15:32 - Geek Out 450 versus Geek Out 1000 sound quality differences
15:56 - What to use with the Geek Out 450
16:31 - What to use with the Geek Out 1000
16:46 - What to use with the Geek Out 100
17:12 - Geek Out 1000 versus Objective DAC/Objective 2 A/B testing procedures
17:55 - Geek Out TCM versus FRM filter sound quality
19:31 - ODAC/O2 versus Geek Out overall sound preferences
19:52 - ODAC/O2 versus Geek Out soundstage
20:41 - ODAC/O2 versus Geek Out imaging and instrument separation
21:23 - ODAC/O2 versus Geek Out overall frequency response and Sabre DAC chip glare
22:34 - ODAC/O2 versus Geek Out treble grain
23:02 - ODAC/O2 versus Geek Out bass control
23:56 - Headphones used during the testing
24:30 - ODAC/O2 versus Geek Out monetary value
25:18 - Geek Out 1000 and Geek Out 100 objective measurements
26:27 - Final thoughts for the Geek Out


----------



## Mojo777

Nice review @miceblue 
  
 I am torn about keeping it. Seems like a total Gen 1 product. Sounds good, drives my planar's well but isn't the "one" at the end of the day for me.
  
 To quote you "The geek out is pretty good" is that enough to keep it?


----------



## greenkiwi

earbones said:


> Ugh. May be an unpopular thing to say, but that's stupid. The IEM 100 is just a stupid idea. I mean, I get the 450 and 1000, there's an excuse there for them To need an awkward workaround- they are designed to drive some serious headphones. But to make the IEM specific model not plug and play with mobile devices? Stupid. Just from a sales perspective. Well, that's frustrating. Guess it's down to the Herus+ or the HRT Microstreamer...



I believe that they have a separate device in the works... The nano that is going to be designed more for mobile devices. I think the 100 came as a derivative of the regular models because some of those models had too much noise for iems


----------



## jexby

Geek Stream is the GeekOut + 3100mAh battery, which connects directly to iDevices using a single CCK cable.
 two power base models to choose from:  192 and 384
  
 perked mine with femtos and the 100mW output instead.


----------



## vhsownsbeta

jexby said:


> Geek Stream is the GeekOut + 3100mAh battery, which connects directly to iDevices using a single CCK cable.
> two power base models to choose from:  192 and 384
> 
> perked mine with femtos and the 100mW output instead.




I wish I had backed that. I pretty much have made my own with a GO and external battery.

They better sort out the thermals though... Even my GO100IEM runs pretty damn hot!


----------



## Mannytorres

If you would like you can open a support ticket and we can talk about getting you a Stream with all the fix'ins


----------



## vhsownsbeta

mannytorres said:


> If you would like you can open a support ticket and we can talk about getting you a Stream with all the fix'ins




Thanks!


----------



## miceblue

mojo777 said:


> Nice review @miceblue
> 
> 
> I am torn about keeping it. Seems like a total Gen 1 product. Sounds good, drives my planar's well but isn't the "one" at the end of the day for me.
> ...


Thanks!

As for me, I am definitely keeping it. I sometimes use portable DACs/amps, so for good quality audio in such a small form factor that can play 99.9% of my music and drive pretty much any headphone, I think the GO is a great all-in-one package for that.


----------



## Lohb

miceblue, thanks.
 I guess the noise floor perceived weakness compared to 02 combo is due to taking power directly off the computer USB vs linear isolated power.


----------



## miceblue

lohb said:


> miceblue, thanks.
> I guess the noise floor perceived weakness compared to 02 combo is due to taking power directly off the computer USB vs linear isolated power.



Well not quite actually. The ODAC draws its power from the USB port and the O2 could be powered with an AC adaptor (switching power supply). Even with the Geek Out being powered by the Geek LPS, which completely isolates the Geek Out from the computer both in terms of power and ground, the hiss is very much present, and is actually not that much quieter compared to my MacBook Pro's USB ports.


----------



## teofilrocks

I searched for the answer first, but didn't find it. Can I use both outputs simultaneously? I'd like to use the 47-ohm output to send to a tube amp and the 0.47-ohm output for low-impedance headphones. Will the GO be able to send full power to the headphones while the line-out is connected?


----------



## AxelCloris

teofilrocks said:


> I searched for the answer first, but didn't find it. Can I use both outputs simultaneously? I'd like to use the 47-ohm output to send to a tube amp and the 0.47-ohm output for low-impedance headphones. Will the GO be able to send full power to the headphones while the line-out is connected?


 
  
 You absolutely can. Enjoy!


----------



## teofilrocks

axelcloris said:


> You absolutely can. Enjoy!


 
  
 Sweet, thank you. I think the GO might make a nice DAC to run into a Bottlehead Crack (or perhaps Project Ember, still deciding).


----------



## pearljam50000

Isn't£~ that double amping because the Geek Out has no line out?


teofilrocks said:


> Sweet, thank you. I think the GO might make a nice DAC to run into a Bottlehead Crack (or perhaps Project Ember, still deciding).


----------



## AxelCloris

Yes, running from a GO into an external amp is double amping, however all of the reports I've read of people who have done so have loved the results. I'll be doing so myself in the coming weeks when the new gear arrives.


----------



## miceblue

It acts as a pre-amp, but you can still make the signal bit-perfect.


----------



## Lceaucx

I'm running the 47ohm output to an integrated tube amp to drive my desktop speakers and the other 0.47 output or my headphones. works perfectly. Only thing theres no way to mute them, so they will both have sound being output from them at the same time.


----------



## Madeupword

Folks, I have a GO450, will it drive an Audeze LCD-2 with fazor well? Do I need to purchase a GO1000?


----------



## pedalhead

I haven't used it with an LCD-2, but I reckon my GO450 could use a bit more grunt to drive my HE-560s to their best. I think the LPS helped, but it's even better now that I'm using line-out from the GO to an old Luxman amp.  If you have a choice between the 450 and 1000, I'd personally go for the 1000 for those cans.  Kudos to LH for the performance of this little thing...used as a DAC it really does sound wonderfully detailed.  Hard to believe I only paid $99 for it via crowd funding.


----------



## Lohb

Guys, does the FRM TRM feature revert to no filter when you power off/remove the GO ?


----------



## pedalhead

lohb said:


> Guys, does the FRM TRM feature revert to no filter when you power off/remove the GO ?


 
  
 It defaults to TCM (you can't switch both off as far as I'm aware).


----------



## Lohb

miceblue said:


> the hiss is very much present, and is actually not that much quieter compared to my MacBook Pro's USB ports.


 
 Do you have a faulty unit ? There is no audible hiss on my Go1000.


----------



## miceblue

lohb said:


> Do you have a faulty unit ? There is no audible hiss on my Go1000.



Nope, both of my units passed LH's inspections and AP tests (which they provided to me with the shipment). The hiss is quieter on the GO 1000, but it's still there for me.


----------



## Lohb

How noticeable do you guys find the new filters.... ?
  
 It is like splitting hairs...one (FRM) seems to just go down in volume and back up...the other (TRM) seems to have a more in-your face-presentation.
 Other than that....1000 still rocking out great sound... Zero hiss/background grain for me anyway....


----------



## DSlayerZX

just curiously... if the slacker broke.... are they under the warranty? =_=


If not.. what is a reasonable replacement?


----------



## jexby

dslayerzx said:


> just curiously... if the slacker broke.... are they under the warranty? =_=
> 
> 
> If not.. what is a reasonable replacement?




I believe LH is sending out free Slacker replacements?

If not, the Audioquest DragonTail works great also.


----------



## AxelCloris

jexby said:


> I believe LH is sending out free Slacker replacements?
> 
> If not, the Audioquest DragonTail works great also.


 
  
 I also use the Audioquest DragonTail. Monoprice makes a decent extender cable for the price as well.


----------



## DSlayerZX

Alright thanks guys, 

I'll shoot LH labs a ticket on the cable and see what happens first.


----------



## rlawli

dslayerzx said:


> just curiously... if the slacker broke.... are they under the warranty? =_=
> 
> 
> If not.. what is a reasonable replacement?


 
  
 I wouldn't bother with a warranty claim. A much higher quality cable can be inexpensively obtained elsewhere. For example, consider the Mediabridge USB 2.0 - USB Extension Cable.
  
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KNI796/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## AxelCloris

A quick note too, I know my slacker forces the GO to sit upside down when in use. My DragonTail makes sure the GO rests with the lights on the top. I can't say that's true for all slackers but I know several people who have said the same thing.

I have a new GO 100 that arrived yesterday so I'll check the slacker in that box to see if it's still true.


----------



## longbowbbs

axelcloris said:


> A quick note too, I know my slacker forces the GO to sit upside down when in use. My DragonTail makes sure the GO rests with the lights on the top. I can't say that's true for all slackers but I know several people who have said the same thing.
> 
> I have a new GO 100 that arrived yesterday so I'll check the slacker in that box to see if it's still true.


 
 I ended up twisting the slacker and over a period of a week or so I got it turned over so the GO is upright when connected.


----------



## teofilrocks

axelcloris said:


> A quick note too, I know my slacker forces the GO to sit upside down when in use. My DragonTail makes sure the GO rests with the lights on the top. I can't say that's true for all slackers but I know several people who have said the same thing.
> 
> I have a new GO 100 that arrived yesterday so I'll check the slacker in that box to see if it's still true.



Same with my blue Slacker. I got a 1m Amazon Basics extension cable to replace it.


----------



## Audio Addict

teofilrocks said:


> Same with my blue Slacker. I got a 1m Amazon Basics extension cable to replace it.



The Slacker was a perk so it is disappointing how it turned out.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Never used mine (slacker). When I saw it, felt it, was afraid to use it. It might do more harm than good. Bought the Dragon Tail instead.


----------



## doctorjazz

Use the Dragoil Tail with my Geek Out.


----------



## jexby

doctorjazz said:


> Use the Dragoil Tail with my Geek Out.




Moi aussi,
Connected to a Wyrd as well.


----------



## AxelCloris

jexby said:


> Moi aussi,
> Connected to a Wyrd as well.


 
  
 I'm thinking about picking up a Wyrd to see if my LPS is indeed causing the dropouts with my GO SE. Works well together?


----------



## jexby

axelcloris said:


> I'm thinking about picking up a Wyrd to see if my LPS is indeed causing the dropouts with my GO SE. Works well together?




It's not perfect, but I can help a tad in SQ I believe.
Using Wyrd+GO at work on a MacBook Pro, still can get very short (1 sec) drop outs if laptop CPU stays high for awhile, or a big data copy is in progress.
Occasionally unplugging headphones from 0.47 jack can cause a short- GO needs to be un plugged and back into Wyrd to re sync.

Usually I leave Wyrd+GO plugged in 24x7 except weekends and try not to unplug headphones or IEMs much.

Note: the above was true for Wyrd to GO450 and NAD HP50.
And now GO100 and UM3X IEMs.


----------



## themad

In case anyone is interested, my Geek Out 1000 in Blue color is for sale.


----------



## Lohb

Teradak/custom data-only USB cable....simple upgrade (if you buy the Teradak direct from the company vs ebay, the cost savings pays for custom USB cable).
 My long-in-the-tooth amps builder friend says dynamics better on dedicated power.
  
 D**m, it gets hot though with planars maxxed out at full volume. On mid-volume warm/hot...full volume....fresh hot coffee mug toasty !


----------



## mandrake50

lohb said:


> Teradak/custom data-only USB cable....simple upgrade (if you buy the Teradak direct from the company vs ebay, the cost savings pays for custom USB cable).
> My long-in-the-tooth amps builder friend says dynamics better on dedicated power.
> 
> D**m, it gets hot though with planars maxxed out at full volume. On mid-volume warm/hot...full volume....fresh hot coffee mug toasty !


 

 Which custom made USB cable are you talking about. I have been looking for a Y cable. Two male A to female. One leg signal only, one power only.
 The only one  I have seen is close to $300. That is not something I am willing to do for this application.
  
 Yes I saw the tape trick and how to do surgery to disable the power contact on one of the plugs... either looks like a PIA. For different reasons...


----------



## Lohb

mandrake50 said:


> Which custom made USB cable are you talking about. I have been looking for a Y cable. Two male A to female. One leg signal only, one power only.
> The only one  I have seen is close to $300. That is not something I am willing to do for this application.
> 
> Yes I saw the tape trick and how to do surgery to disable the power contact on one of the plugs... either looks like a PIA. For different reasons...


 
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/375#post_10489140
  
 Y-split cable included with very cheap Teradak. Buy direct from them vs ebay price saves enough money to partially pay for a custom USB data cable or just scotch tape a basic $2 USB cable.
 My custom data cable - $20 for gold plate USB A/B connectors and $12 Cryo UP-OCC 7-strand cabling from Singapore...not to improve sonics as it is a data cable, just an extra that looks good and is correct length I need. The linear power leg will improve dynamics I believe vs drawing off the notebook USB. Notebook background grain/noise also removed.....MBA not bad for that realy...
 Anyway, its not an expensive upgrade ....totaling less including custom cables than other linear power solutions alone.
 I had hoped to use GO1000 with my phone and one app (HIBY Music)  using split data/power...everything hooked up, but no volume control ;-(


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

HIBY has problems on volume control on DACs having Xmos.
  
 Using UAPP for GO1000 close to a year already. And its solid.
  
 Tried Onkyo and had problems accessing my microSD card on Note 3.


----------



## USAudio

Researching the Geek Out 1000, had a couple questions:
  
 - With firmware 1.5, I see the 3D (crossfeed) feature is gone.  When the 3D feature was on, wasn't it indicated by the 3D LED indicator?  If so, how is that 3D indicator LED being used now?  For anything?
 - I see a bunch of Geek Out 1000's for sale ... are there certain things with the GeekOut 1000 in particular that many folks are unhappy with?


----------



## jexby

usaudio said:


> Researching the Geek Out 1000, had a couple questions:
> 
> - With firmware 1.5, I see the 3D (crossfeed) feature is gone.  When the 3D feature was on, wasn't it indicated by the 3D LED indicator?  If so, how is that 3D indicator LED being used now?  For anything?
> - I see a bunch of Geek Out 1000's for sale ... are there certain things with the GeekOut 1000 in particular that many folks are unhappy with?


 
  
 1.  the 3D LED indicator is not used for anything now in my tests with GO100 firmware v1.5.
 pressing the buttons to enabled filters, even the temporary LED lights that flash do not use the led labeled as 3D.
  
 2.  haven't heard unhappiness with GO1000 in general, unless it's simply "too much power" for the paired headphone.  (ie.  back ground noise too high with IEMs, or sensitive headphones, etc.)
 I found the GO450 perfect for NAD HP50.
 and GO100 best for IEMs  (no background hiss)
  
 wouldn't hesitate to try a GO1000 with my HE-400i, maybe some day.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

My gripe only for GO1000 is that it has too much power for my usage. And it is me who is at fault (for choosing it).
 If have to choose now it will be the IEM100.
  
 However, I dont have those background noise issues that other talk about.


----------



## MikeyFresh

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> My gripe only for GO1000 is that it has too much power for my usage. And it is me who is at fault (for choosing it).
> If have to choose now it will be the IEM100.
> 
> However, I dont have those background noise issues that other talk about.


 

 My sentiments EXACTLY.
  
 No noise issues at all, but just too powerful for my 'phones, so I use it as a line level DAC in a bedroom system feeding a Sugden Headmaster.
  
 In that arrangement, with firmware v1.5, the sound is absolutely stellar.


----------



## miceblue

*sigh*
Yes that noise issue is really the only reason why I hate the GO450. Otherwise it's a great product for $199 ($149129 on Massdrop?).


----------



## USAudio

jexby said:


> 1.  the 3D LED indicator is not used for anything now in my tests with GO100 firmware v1.5.
> pressing the buttons to enabled filters, even the temporary LED lights that flash do not use the led labeled as 3D.
> 
> 2.  haven't heard unhappiness with GO1000 in general, unless it's simply "too much power" for the paired headphone.  (ie.  back ground noise too high with IEMs, or sensitive headphones, etc.)
> ...


 
 I was looking for something that I could use with a variety of headphones -- ones that I have now and may have in the future, and the GO1000 seemed to fit the bill.
 I currently have the Sennheiser HD650 and HD-25-1 II and who knows what the future will bring, but probably not IEM's.  That is what made the GO1000 so attractive, the available high output if necessary.


----------



## doctorjazz

I've never had a noise problem with my 1K, but never got the volume issue fully resolved (have to go back to their instruction manual on using JRiver. The way I am now set up, I can only control the volume with the LH app slider). I also didn't think there was really a "line out" with the GO units. Actually may wind up selling my 1K, also have the GO SE, don't pull out the 1K any more.


----------



## USAudio

doctorjazz said:


> I've never had a noise problem with my 1K, but never got the volume issue fully resolved...



What noise and volume issues? With the GO1000?
With the GO1000's specs, I'm surprised to hear of noise issues.


----------



## doctorjazz

Don't have any, as I said, but if you look back at the thread, seems some people do (maybe I'm just old enough to be loosing all my high frequency hearing, so I don't notice what the younger listeners do...has to be some benefit to this getting to be an old fart stuff...)


----------



## USAudio

doctorjazz said:


> Don't have any, as I said, but if you look back at the thread, seems some people do (maybe I'm just old enough to be loosing all my high frequency hearing, so I don't notice what the younger listeners do...has to be some benefit to this getting to be an old fart stuff...)


 
 Yeah, sorry, I wasn't very clear there.  I didn't mean just you about the noise problem but what volume issue you were having.


----------



## doctorjazz

It must be me and the settings, haven't found the fix, but I saw the other day there was some sort of wiki on the LH site on proper settings for JRiver and Geek Out. The way I'm set up now, the JRiver volume slider does nothing, the general Windows volume control does nothing, the keyboard does nothing, I have to open up the LH lab app and the slider there works to control the volume. I posted a number of times, never got good advice on the solution, but, as I've said, I recently saw the instructions on JRiver set up at the LH site, just haven't had a chance to get to it.

No insult taken, just was a poor attempt at a joke 



usaudio said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > Don't have any, as I said, but if you look back at the thread, seems some people do (maybe I'm just old enough to be loosing all my high frequency hearing, so I don't notice what the younger listeners do...has to be some benefit to this getting to be an old fart stuff...)
> ...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Funny I am using Windows (7 x64 Ult.) and I am using the JRiver, System Volume/keyboard shortcuts at ease.
  
 Have you set Geek Out as default sound device?
  
 Under Properties>Advanced Tab have you ticked all boxes under Exclusive mode?
  
 Under JRiver I use Kernel Streaming on the Device Settings volume is LH Geek Out.
  
 Volume mode is: Disable
  
 Hope it helps...


----------



## nehcrow

Anyone have a useless GO1000 lying around? Sell me one brahs


----------



## USAudio

Speaking of noise ...
  
 How come here the Geek Out 1000 THD+N is given as 0.01%:
 http://marketplace.lhlabs.com/products/geek-out-1000-usb-dac-and-headphone-amplifier
  
 Whereas here, THD+N for the Geek Out 1000 is given as 0.002+%:
 http://lhlabs.com/force/geekout/898-geek-out-vs-the-others-3rd-installment.html
  
 ?


----------



## miceblue

Well that was a complete failure. I opened up a support ticket asking about a loose USB/PCB assembly I have with my GO450 and the ticket auto-closed even though I responded after the warning message was sent to me that the ticket would be closed in 48 hours. The problem was never attempted to be solved by support staff.

Does anyone else have this problem? The video is unlisted, so only people with the link can see it. Based on the number of views, the LH support staff (Manny was handling my ticket) didn't even bother watching the video since the 1 view so far is from me.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAcQ-mxsnEE[/video]


----------



## mandrake50

They do this way too often. I recently asked about an upgrade. I got a reply that I did not understand... I replied in about 4 hours... No further response... ticket remained closed.
 I even PM Casey a couple of times... no response. He was the one that told me to open the ticket..
 In any case, in spite of their claims of wanting to make us all happy, it doesn't seem like the new system is doing that very well!


----------



## Jazzi

My gripe with the GO is the lack of confirmation that the computer (at least the MacBook Pro) provides when using it.  Typically the Audio Midi Setup displays an icon in the DAC being used.  Happens for every other DAC I've used, except for the GO.  Even from the Menu Bar, when you use the Option/Click for output devices, it shows some other device when you're using the GO.  Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I find it baffling that the MBPro recognizes every other DAC, except the GO.  
  
 Could a firmware fix correct this minor problem, or is there something about the GO1000 that makes the MBPro act this way?

 I would guess they all react the same, but mine is the GO1000.


----------



## miceblue

jazzi said:


> My gripe with the GO is the lack of confirmation that the computer (at least the MacBook Pro) provides when using it.  Typically the Audio Midi Setup displays an icon in the DAC being used.  Happens for every other DAC I've used, except for the GO.  Even from the Menu Bar, when you use the Option/Click for output devices, it shows some other device when you're using the GO.  Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I find it baffling that the MBPro recognizes every other DAC, except the GO.
> 
> Could a firmware fix correct this minor problem, or is there something about the GO1000 that makes the MBPro act this way?
> 
> ...



That is weird. My 2008 MacBook and 2012 MacBook Pro Retina Display both see the GO 1000 and are shown in the list of devices in Audio MIDI. It sounds like your unit is defective.


----------



## nehcrow

Man LH service is just terrible reading from you guy's posts. I see heaps of members furious at you guys.
 Shoddy service is just bad reputation and Head-fi is the leading site for getting your audio-related product known so pull your act together LH. 
 Someone has to says it...


----------



## MikeyFresh

jazzi said:


> My gripe with the GO is the lack of confirmation that the computer (at least the MacBook Pro) provides when using it.  Typically the Audio Midi Setup displays an icon in the DAC being used.  Happens for every other DAC I've used, except for the GO.  Even from the Menu Bar, when you use the Option/Click for output devices, it shows some other device when you're using the GO.  Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I find it baffling that the MBPro recognizes every other DAC, except the GO.
> 
> Could a firmware fix correct this minor problem, or is there something about the GO1000 that makes the MBPro act this way?
> 
> I would guess they all react the same, but mine is the GO1000.


 

 Are you using the Slacker cable with it?
  
 If so, try connecting the GO1000 directly with no Slacker cable to see if that solves the problem.
  
 The Slacker has proven to be low quality with many being exchanged as defective.
  
*EDIT: I reread your post and it seems I misunderstood originally.*


----------



## Kwangsun

Hi,
  
 So I've been eyeing the GO450 for a few days now. Want something superior to my current desktop setup, a Fiio E17 (old version) mated to a E9. It's a good system but getting kind of old and lack the overall resolution that I'm looking for. So when the GO450 dropped in MD I decided to seriously consider it. The only thing is that I own a iBasso DX90 which doubles as a DAC/AMP so I'm not sure whether this is worth buying. 
  
 Thanks guys


----------



## miceblue

nehcrow said:


> Man LH service is just terrible reading from you guy's posts. I see heaps of members furious at you guys.
> 
> Shoddy service is just bad reputation and Head-fi is the leading site for getting your audio-related product known so pull your act together LH.
> 
> Someone has to says it...



I've had a few positive interactions with their support team, but it seems like a hit or miss really.

I received an e-mail that said:


> Dear [miceblue],
> 
> Your ticket - Wobbly USB connector on Geek Out - has been closed.
> 
> ...




So obviously I reply back and I immediately get this message:


> Dear [miceblue],
> 
> Our system has noted that you recently replied (either by email or directly on our support page) to a ticket that has been marked as “closed” or “resolved” by one of our Customer Happiness agents.
> 
> ...





So helpful.


----------



## Jazzi

miceblue said:


> That is weird. My 2008 MacBook and 2012 MacBook Pro Retina Display both see the GO 1000 and are shown in the list of devices in Audio MIDI. It sounds like your unit is defective.


 
 The MBPro does recognize the GO1000, but it gives the visual impression that it's streaming the sound through stock inputs rather than the GO, as evidenced by the speaker icon.  At least that's what I always thought it indicated.
  

  
 Just tried something different.  Apparently it's a problem with Audirvana.  I shut down Audirvana, selected the GO in the Audio Midi Setup, then started Audirvana again.  It immediately deselected the GO and grabbed the Built-In Output.  

 My guess is not a GO problem as much as an unwillingness of Audirvana to play nicely with it.


----------



## Jazzi

mikeyfresh said:


> Are you using the Slacker cable with it?
> 
> If so, try connecting the GO1000 directly with no Slacker cable to see if that solves the problem.
> 
> ...


 
 Thanks for the suggestion, Mikey.  Was using the slacker cable, removed it, and no change.  I'll invest in another slacker cable.  I think I feel safer with the cable than with this big device hanging out a MBPro that moves quite a bit during the day.


----------



## miceblue

jazzi said:


> The MBPro does recognize the GO1000, but it gives the visual impression that it's streaming the sound through stock inputs rather than the GO, as evidenced by the speaker icon.  At least that's what I always thought it indicated.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Ah, I think I know what you mean. So you have Audirvana Plus open but you still want to use the GO for other things too?

In Audio MIDI, right-click on the GO and say "use this device for sound output."


Alternatively, hold the Alt/option key as you click on the volume indicator at the top-right of the Menubar and you can select your output audio device from there.



If you want to play music through Audirvana Plus and elsewhere, you have to disable "Exclusive access mode" because otherwise the GO will only output audio from Audirvana Plus.


----------



## Jazzi

miceblue said:


> Ah, I think I know what you mean. So you have Audirvana Plus open but you still want to use the GO for other things too?
> 
> In Audio MIDI, right-click on the GO and say "use this device for sound output."
> 
> ...


 
 Thanks, Mice.  You're a friggin' genius!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 It apparently was the 'direct access' setting.  After deselecting, Audio Midi Setup maintains the GO when running Audirvana.  Thanks, much!


----------



## Lohb

DSD64/128 are grayed out in my A+ preferences.... No idea why.
 I think the discontinued GO720 is the sweetspot for Fostex T50RP without having to dial down the digital volume on A+.


----------



## miceblue

lohb said:


> DSD64/128 are grayed out in my A+ preferences.... No idea why.
> I think the discontinued GO720 is the sweetspot for Fostex T50RP without having to dial down the digital volume on A+.



Set the "Native DSD Capability" output option to "DSD over PCM standard 1.0" like in this screenshot.


----------



## Lohb

miceblue said:


> Set the "Native DSD Capability" output option to "DSD over PCM standard 1.0" like in this screenshot.


 

 Aha, easy when you know how.


----------



## Lohb

Some GO1000 'cable porn'.

  
 Happy with my data cable's build quality.
 As others have said , Teradak Y-merger cable could be sold at almost the same price as the linear power supply !


----------



## nehcrow

miceblue said:


> I've had a few positive interactions with their support team, but it seems like a hit or miss really.
> 
> I received an e-mail that said:
> So obviously I reply back and I immediately get this message:
> So helpful.


 
 LOL, I could do better a job with customer service myself
 I feel like it's ok for smaller companies (e.g. cable companies, Asia based IEM companies) to have poor communication but LH is kind of a big company in the audiophile world... get yo game together


----------



## nehcrow

lohb said:


> Some GO1000 'cable porn'.
> 
> 
> Happy with my data cable's build quality.
> As others have said , Teradak Y-merger cable could be sold at almost the same price as the linear power supply !


 
 I'm not even sure what this cable does!
 Where does the non-usb cable lead to? Another amp I assume?


----------



## Lohb

nehcrow said:


> I'm not even sure what this cable does!
> Where does the non-usb cable lead to? Another amp I assume?


 

 Power and data separation merging into a USB B cable then into a USB A adapter to plug in the GO1000.
 Only data coming out the Macbook Air...bright red teflon covered cable does not supply GO1000 power...Teradak unit takes care of that.
  
 Teradak...


----------



## mandrake50

lohb said:


> Some GO1000 'cable porn'.
> 
> 
> Happy with my data cable's build quality.
> As others have said , Teradak Y-merger cable could be sold at almost the same price as the linear power supply !


 
 Unfortunately I found that the current X1/X2 model being sod directly from them does not seem to include the cable...
 Did I miss something in the description. All I saw was a coax power connector.


----------



## mandrake50

lohb said:


> Some GO1000 'cable porn'.
> 
> 
> Happy with my data cable's build quality.
> As others have said , Teradak Y-merger cable could be sold at almost the same price as the linear power supply !


 
 Unfortunately it looks like they no longer supply the cable  with that unit. On there web page the pictures and description do not in include the USB/power splitter cable.
 Did I miss something? Am I looking in the wrong place?
  
 I did see one on Ebay with the cable. But they wanted far more than the $45 that has been mentioned ...


----------



## Lohb

mandrake50 said:


> Unfortunately it looks like they no longer supply the cable  with that unit. On there web page the pictures and description do not in include the USB/power splitter cable.
> Did I miss something? Am I looking in the wrong place?
> 
> I did see one on Ebay with the cable. But they wanted far more than the $45 that has been mentioned ...


 

 I had to confirm that with Teradak direct by email as well, as there was no photo of the USB cable on their listing for that unit on their site. Yes, you get the USB merger cable (power out) and a small power cable (power out)...unit has 2 power out functions... AND you need to request the mains cable (power in) for your country.
  
 You can just as well buy a $2 cable for the _USB A male to USB B male data cable part_ of the input and seal over the +ve power strip as is suggested here..
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/375#post_10489140


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

It doesn't have to to cost $45
  
 I use a Delock Split Y USB cable. And tape the 5v pin on the data side.


----------



## Lohb

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> It doesn't have to to cost $45
> 
> Apricorn USB Power Adapter Y Cable $15:
> http://www.amazon.com/Apricorn-Power-Adapter-Cable-AUSB-Y/dp/B000JIOHDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426354456&sr=8-1&keywords=data+power+y+split+usb+cable


 

 Think he means the Teradak unit is higher on ebay (unit and cable set)...


----------



## mandrake50

lohb said:


> I had to confirm that with them by email as well as there was no photo of the USB cable. Yes, you get the USB merger cable (power out) and a small power cable (power out)...unit has 2 power out functions... AND you need to request the mains cable (power in) for your country.


 

 Thanks for that.
 I only wish they offered it in 12 Volts out for the primary output. I could use that for something. I have nothing that uses 9 volts...
 I think I will order one.


----------



## mandrake50

lohb said:


> Think he means the Teradak unit is higher on ebay (unit and cable set)...


 

 Correct $80 on Ebay.


----------



## Lohb

mandrake50 said:


> Thanks for that.
> I only wish they offered it in 12 Volts out for the primary output. I could use that for something. I have nothing that uses 9 volts...
> I think I will order one.


 

 I will roll that 12 volts out over to their Teradak USB to optical unit for Caiman Mk2 DAC optical input later. Macbook Air no optical out..
 Anyway, worth the money I think for GO1000 split data/power thanks to Mike's detailed wire guide above.


----------



## mandrake50

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> It doesn't have to to cost $45
> 
> I use a Delock Split Y USB cable. And tape the 5v pin on the data side.


 
 Have you ever had any problems with the tape. I can see it wearing through after a while... I am a bit concerned that this could happen at some point
 Also, when you tape it, do you wrap the tape around over the metal shell?
 What kind of tape did you use? Maybe some relatively thick Teflon tape might work, if the clearance does not become a problem.
  
 I have some of the Y split cables designed for use with older  HDDs. I also have a couple of battery packs  a 10 Ah and 20 Ah pack.
 Maybe I can do something with what I have here.


----------



## mandrake50

lohb said:


> I will roll that 12 volts out over to their Teradak USB to optical unit for Caiman Mk2 DAC optical input later. Macbook Air no optical out..
> Anyway, worth the money I think for GO1000 split data/power thanks to Mike's detailed wire guide above.


 

 Are you saying that they do have a unit with 12 volts out rather than 9 Volts?


----------



## Lohb

mandrake50 said:


> Are you saying that they do have a unit with 12 volts out rather than 9 Volts?


 

 No, I think it is compatible for me later with the USB to Optical unit they sell...Teradak--->Teralink.
  


 9V ~ 12V DC @ 350ma


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I use reinforced vinyl tape and attached it with Super Glue.
  
 Now I have the 2G split USB Cable.
  
 Note: I update my post above since the Delock cost less ($7 - which I use) as compared to Apricorn ($15) and more or less they are the same.


----------



## mandrake50

lohb said:


> No, I think it is compatible for me later with the USB to Optical unit they sell...Teradak--->Teralink.
> 
> 
> 
> 9V ~ 12V DC @ 350ma


 
 Output voltage: 8.5V ( 2.5-10V adjustable, factory default 8.5V ) DC DC
 Output current: 800 mA ~ 1A  (varying with the DC output voltage)
  
 Is what I am seeing on their web page. Here
  
 Where did you see the 9_12V number?


----------



## Lohb

mandrake50 said:


> Output voltage: 8.5V ( 2.5-10V adjustable, factory default 8.5V ) DC DC
> Output current: 800 mA ~ 1A  (varying with the DC output voltage)
> 
> Is what I am seeing on their web page. Here
> ...


 

 On the teralink page. I think I remember the 8.5 can be dialed up to 9 volts inside if it isn't already.Terdak can output 9 volts.
 Anyway PM me if you want vs on the thread.


----------



## mandrake50

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> I use reinforced vinyl tape and attached it with Super Glue.
> 
> Now I have the 2G split USB Cable.
> 
> Note: I update my post above since the Delock cost less ($7 - which I use) as compared to Apricorn ($15) and more or less they are the same.


 

 Do you wrap it around and have tape on the "bottom" side of the metal shell? I haven't seen any pictures of the shell side under the contacts.


----------



## Lohb

mandrake50 said:


> Do you wrap it around and have tape on the "bottom" side of the metal shell? I haven't seen any pictures of the shell side under the contacts.


 

 That info is a page back on the macro photo of the USB plug I pasted in...everything is in Mike's guide.


----------



## mandrake50

Interesting.. but I don't see any pictures of the underside of the connector... I looked yesterday and again just now.
 That is why I asked.
  
 I will quit now... I am sure I can figure it out. Just trying to save some time and frustration of doing it wrong if somebody has that answer.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Sorry went out for a while...
  
 Nope I didn't have it wrapped around (tried it and it got stucked on the female connector).
  
 Glued it with super glue to help it stay in placed.


----------



## mandrake50

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Sorry went out for a while...
> 
> Nope I didn't have it wrapped around (tried it and it got stucked on the female connector).
> 
> Glued it with super glue to help it stay in placed.


 
  Thanks. I appreciate that bit of info!


----------



## Lohb

Anyone else using any kind of Fostex T50-RP variation with the GO1000 ?


----------



## AxelCloris

I've used the Alpha Dogs with a GO 1000. Considering the size factor the GO knocks it out of the park but my Violectric V181 amp fed from the GO sounds better than just a straight GO.


----------



## Joeybgood

So I picked up a LH GO 1000. Something doesn't appear to be functioning properly. Firstly, there is supposed to be one convex button and one concave. Both  are concave on this unit. Not that that  is necessarily an issue but.... just saying.. secondly, I can't seem to get the awesomifier to engage. I press both buttons simultaneously and it does drop out for a sec but when it comes back on I don't hear any real difference and there is still only the bottom light of the set of three illuminated and none of the upper 4. The sound is very nice out of the GO but something isn't quite right. Thoughts?


----------



## Lohb

joeybgood said:


> So I picked up a LH GO 1000. Something doesn't appear to be functioning properly. Firstly, there is supposed to be one convex button and one concave. Both  are concave on this unit. Not that that  is necessarily an issue but.... just saying.. secondly, I can't seem to get the awesomifier to engage. I press both buttons simultaneously and it does drop out for a sec but when it comes back on I don't hear any real difference and there is still only the bottom light of the set of three illuminated and none of the upper 4. The sound is very nice out of the GO but something isn't quite right. Thoughts?


 

 You may have the latest firmware 1.5 = bye-bye awsomefier and hello
http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/1230#post_10926508
 which to be frank, I can only hear the tiniest difference with TCM mode, if at all.
  
 Look in your DAC audio settings to see if 1.5 is after your GO DAC name. I guess they ship with 1.5 installed now.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## Joeybgood

Thanks guys!! good to know it's likely an intended 'issue'/update and not a malfunction. I am totally happy with how it sounds so I may leave well enough alone. However, I definitely had the staticky/bugs sound when I first hooked it up so went into the GO folder and clicked the firmware update, but even after it supposedly updated  I still got the bug sound and the awesomfier and on-unit volume control still did not function so I am going to leave things as they are. Thanks again! Joe


----------



## pearljam50000

I keep getting volume spikes.
 What sould i do?!
 Which volume mode should i choose in Jriver?


----------



## sfoclt

Does the GO1000 work with iPhone?
  
 (Via search I find many saying no but not clear if later firmware updates now make it possible so double-checking...)


----------



## jexby

Nope.
Not unless you get a split cable and a battery for power.


----------



## MikeyFresh

jexby said:


> Nope.
> Not unless you get a split cable and a battery for power.


 

 And an Apple CCK too, you'd need all 3 of those items to make it go.


----------



## sfoclt

Thank you.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

pearljam50000 said:


> I keep getting volume spikes.
> What sould i do?!
> Which volume mode should i choose in Jriver?


 
  
 Geek Out gets volume data from system volume. (I believe)
  
 My volume in JRiver is disabled.
  
 Geek Out is default sound card on system.
  
 I adjust my volume thru system volume.
  
 I haven't experience spikes since day 1 (the documented volume bug excluded).
  
 Hope it helps Bro.


----------



## Stuff Jones

Has anyone used the 450 with the Aurisonic Rockets? Is there the noise problem?


----------



## Stuff Jones

This thread is dead! Have people moved on from the Geek Out? 
  
 I'm happy with mine but it sounds a little to closed and sterile. Even live albums sound like they were recorded in the studio. Any recommendations on something that's a little more open and organic sounding?


----------



## miceblue

Let's Give Life Back to Music this thread.

Geek Out version 2?
http://www.head-fi.org/t/758649/canjam-socal-2015-impressions-thread/180#post_11456978


bacon333 said:


> miceblue said:
> 
> 
> > bacon333 said:
> ...


----------



## pearljam50000

What's the price, when is coming out, what's the difference vs the old one?


----------



## ejong7

Wait so is this the generation2 stated on Larry's research chart? Is this gonna go into crowdfunding as well?


----------



## bacon333

pearljam50000 said:


> What's the price, when is coming out, what's the difference vs the old one?


 
 The guy (wish I got his name) just pulled this out of his pocket while I was demoing a GO 100. All I know is this is supposed to be out around May and it sounds great. He said they didn't come out with a name yet but it'll most likely be "Geek Out 2"


----------



## ejong7

the most important question though : does it sound better? if the only thing resolved was the heat thing and the addition of gain I wouldn't be as jealous of the new one.


----------



## gikigill

The heat thing won't be resolved if it's class A.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

With that mock-up touching will be more bearable though IMO..


----------



## germay0653

stuff jones said:


> This thread is dead! Have people moved on from the Geek Out?
> 
> I'm happy with mine but it sounds a little to closed and sterile. Even live albums sound like they were recorded in the studio. Any recommendations on something that's a little more open and organic sounding?


 

 Closed and sterile?  What cans are you using it with and how is it connected to your source?


----------



## Stuff Jones

germay0653 said:


> Closed and sterile?  What cans are you using it with and how is it connected to your source?


 
  
 I'm using it with Thinksound On1s (best match), Aurisonic Rockets and Mikros 90s. It's plugged directly into my laptop USB. 
  
 The source I'm using to compare is the Shozy Alien which by comparison sounds more open and expansive. Not as punchy, detailed or dynamic though.


----------



## gikigill

I got the same On1 and Geek Out combo. Sounds fantastic.


----------



## germay0653

stuff jones said:


> I'm using it with Thinksound On1s (best match), Aurisonic Rockets and Mikros 90s. It's plugged directly into my laptop USB.
> 
> The source I'm using to compare is the Shozy Alien which by comparison sounds more open and expansive. Not as punchy, detailed or dynamic though.


 

 Fair enough.  Those cans have a very good rating and are neutral.  One comment I will make about the Geek Out is that it blooms with clean power, aka. a good LPS, and at least to my ears with an LPS in play are open with a pretty good soundstage.  I haven't heard the Shozy Alien so I can't compare the two.  But I have compared the Geek Out to a Burson Conductor and it holds it's own.


----------



## longbowbbs

Did someone mention the Geek Out2? At home now and being reviewed!


----------



## Stuff Jones

germay0653 said:


> Fair enough.  Those cans have a very good rating and are neutral.  One comment I will make about the Geek Out is that it blooms with clean power, aka. a good LPS, and at least to my ears with an LPS in play are open with a pretty good soundstage.  I haven't heard the Shozy Alien so I can't compare the two.  But I have compared the Geek Out to a Burson Conductor and it holds it's own.


 
  
 LPS? What is that? I haven't gone that far down the hifi wormhole yet. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
  
 It could just be that the Alien has a unique ability to convey space not that the Geek Out is lacking. Even studio albums sound live with the Alien.


----------



## Stuff Jones

longbowbbs said:


> Did someone mention the Geek Out2? At home now and being reviewed!


 
  
 Can you spill the beans on whether its a significant upgrade over the 1?


----------



## germay0653

stuff jones said:


> LPS? What is that? I haven't gone that far down the hifi wormhole yet.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 LPS = *L*inear *P*ower *S*upply (very clean power)
  
 A PC's USB power is notoriously "dirty" (noisy)


----------



## doctorjazz

Have the Geek Out 1K and the Special Edition...since the SE is so good sounding, don't use the 1k these days (went for the SE because I was knocked out by how good the 1K sounded, wondered what they could do to better it), but, the SE sounds better to my ears than the well regarded CEntrance Hifi M8 LX. Despite all the funding/perk/firmware issues, these guys know how to make good sounding gear, at least from my early experience.


----------



## Lohb

stuff jones said:


> This thread is dead! Have people moved on from the Geek Out?
> 
> I'm happy with mine but it sounds a little to closed and sterile. Even live albums sound like they were recorded in the studio. Any recommendations on something that's a little more open and organic sounding?


 

 I'm currently looking for a HRT Microstreamer to address that... I loved the resolution/black background/dynamics of GO1000 but it kept me in analysis mode all the time...so going to try a TI chip and external amp for a more musical less ultra-detailed style.


----------



## longbowbbs

stuff jones said:


> longbowbbs said:
> 
> 
> > Did someone mention the Geek Out2? At home now and being reviewed!
> ...


 
 Sound wise not yet.
  
 Fully Balanced, two gain settings, two filters, still all class A. No significant heat now with the new 3D printed vented chassis, etc.....


----------



## pearljam50000

Sorry for the ignorance but what do you mean "fully balanced"
Do you need a balanced headphone cable to use it?
Thanks.
BTW do you know what will be the price?


----------



## longbowbbs

pearljam50000 said:


> Sorry for the ignorance but what do you mean "fully balanced"
> Do you need a balanced headphone cable to use it?
> Thanks.
> BTW do you know what will be the price?


 
 It will be fully balanced atm it does not have a balanced output. Joys of playing with pre-production units. More details to follow as I get them.


----------



## doctorjazz

They're really small units, it they're anything close to the original Geek Out size. They'd have to have a balanced output similar to the Pono, seems to me.


----------



## longbowbbs

doctorjazz said:


> They're really small units, it they're anything close to the original Geek Out size. They'd have to have a balanced output similar to the Pono, seems to me.


 
 That would be a Larry question. The unit it basically the same dimensions as the GO.


----------



## miceblue

Fully balanced probably means that the DAC and amp topology have separate differential processing for the left and right channels. Not to be confused with dual mono though, where each channel is handled with their own components in a similar differential process.


----------



## longbowbbs

Geek Out 2 (Prototype) in the wild.


----------



## jexby

Wow that thing glows like radiation!

Do tell us about the gain settings-
Dead quiet for IEMs, brute power for Planars?


----------



## longbowbbs

jexby said:


> Wow that thing glows like radiation!
> 
> Do tell us about the gain settings-
> Dead quiet for IEMs, brute power for Planars?


 
 That was a total tease   
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





....You will have to wait for the short review...I am running it with LCD-X, Alpha Prime and HD800's and then JH16's and ACS T1's for IEM's. We'll see if my K10's and UE11's get here in time for the review.


----------



## jexby




----------



## pearljam50000

Will it be the 450/720/ 1000
Or will it be one version?


----------



## greenkiwi

I hope that they have one version with gain, to deal with IEMs and bigger cans.  Keep things simple.
  
 As for the balanced connectors, I'm guessing that they would go for the TRRS 1/8" option, since that is what is going to be on the wave.  In both cases, I hope that they have it auto sense whether the plug is a TRS or TRRS with microphone and convert the output to SE accordingly.


----------



## miceblue

http://lhlabs.com/force/general/3928-did-anyone-go-to-the-camjam-socal-event#62198


> 1) The enclosure is designed to insulate you from the heat and allow it to escape.
> 2) The design on the enclosure represents "Light Harmonic" and there are seven distinct waves. I forgot the connection between the 7th wave and light, but the design is BEAUTIFUL. I think this something I would enjoy seeing on all LH products.
> 3) The buttons will have new features. One button will continue to switch between the two filters. The second button will be to select the two output ports to switch from independent single-ended stereo out or together as a single balanced output. YES! Perfect! Geek!




Seems like the dual 3.5 mm Sony balanced cables, or the Pono Player.


----------



## Kwangsun

I joined the GO450 drop not long ago. This sucks


----------



## pearljam50000

What will be the price?


----------



## SilverTrumpet999

kwangsun said:


> I joined the GO450 drop not long ago. This sucks


 
  
 I did too, but I'm not disappointed. Technology moves on, but the 450 is a very impressive DAC for the money, especially discounted. It's replaced my Aune and Dacport LX without the slightest question, and makes me wonder how the Pulse Xfi I'm in the queue for can possibly kick it up many more notches.


----------



## nehcrow

Anyone who lives in Aus and doesn't want their GO1000 anymore, hit me up 
 MBPr just can't power my HE-500's properly


----------



## Kwangsun

Well, just got my GO450. It's a killer DAC alright. Better than my E17/E9 combo. VERY impressive stuff for the money! but I am having issues setting it up for DSD and also can't really figure out what the lights mean. Even when i play 44.1Khz files the light stays at 44Khz. Don't understand what the 2x, 4x, and 8x means. And what does pressing both buttons at once do? 
  
 Help with DSD config would be much appreciated. Running Foobar 2k.
  
 Overall however, impressed! And yes, sucker does run HOT.
  
 I can also confirm the hiss on sensitive IEMs, but doesn't seem to affect the music. I used my hard to drive IEMs and they work perfectly. Havi B3 Pro seem to love this thing. TFI10 not so much.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## uncola

kwangsun here's a setup guide http://support.lhlabs.com/support/solutions/articles/5000556096-using-foobar2000-with-geek-out-setup-and-user-guide


----------



## atsq17

silvertrumpet999 said:


> I did too, but I'm not disappointed. Technology moves on, but the 450 is a very impressive DAC for the money, especially discounted. It's replaced my Aune and Dacport LX without the slightest question, and makes me wonder how the Pulse Xfi I'm in the queue for can possibly kick it up many more notches.


 
  
 I own a GO720, I owned (past tense) the Geek Pulse and I now have a Geek Pulse XFi with me. 
  
 The Geek Pulse is clearly superior to the GO720 as you would imagine.
  
 The XFi is very very good. Clearly superior to the vanilla Pulse without a shadow of a doubt. I've got some pretty decent high value equipment and the XFi trumps them. 
  
 I've validated this by asking other enthusiasts and they all say it's awesome. My HD800 owning colleague at work; my partner who uses her Alpha Prime; and me and my LCD-X.


----------



## sfoclt

The lighting is fun at first but that's just not practical for me personally.  Maybe it comes with a way to dim the lighting?


----------



## Kwangsun

thanks... thats the setup i tried to use for the dsd... no go


----------



## SilverTrumpet999

DSD requires a very specific setup with ASIO drivers and the right media player. Foobar2000 can do it but the setup is tricky, and even with a guide it's possible to miss a checkbox somewhere.
  
 And even if you set the ASIO driver up properly, Foobar then requires you to actually select that driver in the output dropdown. That was the step I missed initially


----------



## SilverTrumpet999

Re: buttons and lights:
  
 Pushing both buttons simultaneously no longer does anything.
 If you get three (3) lights, you have activated the TCM filter which is an asymmetric filter which minimizes pre-ringing at the expense of slightly worse post-ringing. The TCM filter doesn't measure quite as well on the bench, but many people swear it sounds much better.
 If you get two (2) lights, you have activated the FRM filter which is a symmetric FIR-type filter.
  
 They really should add the number of lights to their setup/explanation guides, I had to dig through forum threads to find this.
  
 EDIT - I initially had the lights mixed up! Fixed now.


----------



## Stuff Jones

Is the heat generated by the Geek Out 450 a threat to its long term durability?


----------



## jbr1971

stuff jones said:


> Is the heat generated by the Geek Out 450 a threat to its long term durability?


 
  
 No, all Geek Out models were designed to withstand the heat due to the amplifier used.
  
 Jody


----------



## uncola

geek out 2 prototype case looks awesome.. I guess it's 3d printed nylon/abs/silicone or wahtever 3d printed things are made of, but imagine it in metal


----------



## AxelCloris

uncola said:


> geek out 2 prototype case looks awesome.. I guess it's 3d printed nylon/abs/silicone or wahtever 3d printed things are made of, but imagine it in metal


 
  
 Well 3D printers can print in metal now, so...


----------



## ejong7

I dont mind the vents but it looks like its gonna be able to collect dust inside, no matter how little.


----------



## longbowbbs

ejong7 said:


> I dont mind the vents but it looks like its gonna be able to collect dust inside, no matter how little.


 
 That is what Keyboard vacuum's are for....
  
 http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=mini+keyboard+vacuum&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=7384544364&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17706908528707251680&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_8ybvr0qn0t_b


----------



## nicdub

Is it 1000mw per channel or total? I'm guessing total.


----------



## yangian

How about this one aompared to AQ Dragonfly v1.2?
 Thanks!
  
 Edit by Mod consolidating post: How about it works with HD 600?
 Message by Mod: next time please edit your post rather than reply sequentially.


----------



## Stuff Jones

So I'm trying it with the TCM setting now. Initially I preferred the FRM because it sounded clearer, but I think the TCM setting gives it better soundstage and generally makes it sound less studio and sterile. 
  
 Sounds fantastic with the thinksound on1s in particular and its driving my home setup very well. An amazing little device.


----------



## AxelCloris

yangian said:


> How about this one aompared to AQ Dragonfly v1.2?
> Thanks!


 
  
 More power, more PCM filters, more supported files, dual headphone out.
  


yangian said:


> How about it works with HD 600?


 
  
 It works well with the HD 600. The GO 1000 has a clear sound signature thanks to the ESS chip but it's not glaringly bright like some other ESS implementations.
  
  
 Please do not bump your questions when you're the last person to post. These threads are visited often but it may be a bit before someone who is knowledgable on the topic is able to respond to you.


----------



## yangian

Sorry about that. Thanks for reminding. Thanks for replying.


----------



## HiFiRobot

uncola said:


> geek out 2 prototype case looks awesome.. I guess it's 3d printed nylon/abs/silicone or wahtever 3d printed things are made of, but imagine it in metal


 
  
 Looks slightly bigger than the first Geek Out. Differences would be newer DAC chip, case design and heat dissipation?
 I guess LH Labs are Massdropping the way for this one. GO1000 is up there currently at $198 lowest price.
 Wait for the new or get the GO1000 at a good deal, decisions decisons.......


----------



## uncola

the differences I read about were.. a button to turn the dual 3.5mm headphone outs into a balanced out.. and newer dac chip.. I didn't see any other features mentioned


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Gain Switch High (headphones) and Low (IEMs)


----------



## Mannytorres

stuff jones said:


> So I'm trying it with the TCM setting now. Initially I preferred the FRM because it sounded clearer, but I think the TCM setting gives it better soundstage and generally makes it sound less studio and sterile.
> 
> Sounds fantastic with the thinksound on1s in particular and its driving my home setup very well. An amazing little device.


 

 I also like the FRM for my setup for that exact reason. The room i use is more open then my previous one.


----------



## Kwangsun

Hi, 
  
 I need some advice. I have owned my GO450 for around a week now and have been enjoying it immensely. Yesterday however, I have started noticing some popping noises when switching tracks or volume changes. The amp definitely feels colder than it used to be when fully warmed up and I'm starting to suspect maybe something is wrong with the amp.
  
 Anyone else here have similar experiences?


----------



## cuiter23

Glad to be an owner of the Geek Out! Not a 1000 though just a 720 haha (I couldn't find a page for just the 720s). Have mine hooked up to the dragontail and although I've only heard it for a couple of hours, they sound great and run extremely hot!


----------



## HiFiRobot

cuiter23 said:


> Glad to be an owner of the Geek Out! Not a 1000 though just a 720 haha (I couldn't find a page for just the 720s). Have mine hooked up to the dragontail and although I've only heard it for a couple of hours, they sound great and run extremely hot!


 
  
 There are heat sinks on Ebay for $1,32 that fit pretty well. Can't seem to find any black ones though. The ones below are without the adhesive, that stuff can be found on ebay as well. I will try to attach with a rubber band or something, hopefully it does not melt =)
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/60x30x8mm-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-for-Computer-LED-Power-IC-Transistor-Silver-H183-/221663089227?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339c26524b
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/60x30x8mm-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-for-Computer-LED-Power-IC-Transistor-Silver-H183-/201264998626?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2edc5428e2
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/60x30x8mm-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-for-Computer-LED-Power-IC-Transistor-Red-Color-H182-/381123815397?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58bcbfe7e5
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/60x30x8mm-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-for-Computer-LED-Power-IC-Transistor-Red-Color-H182-/201264992199?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2edc540fc7
  
 http://lhlabs.com/force/kickstartergeekout/1136-psa-the-printing-on-back-sticker-still-rubbs-off?lang=en&start=25#20450


----------



## Kwangsun

Hahaha, you make me feel bad for owning the 450! and don't get a heat sink. They work better when hot.


----------



## miceblue

As long as the circuit is in relative thermal equilibrium, I don't think the temperature matters. These aren't tube amps where the amplification element depends on heat. XD


----------



## HiFiRobot

kwangsun said:


> Hahaha, you make me feel bad for owning the 450! and don't get a heat sink. They work better when hot.


 
  
 Yes I know GO supposedly performs and measures better when hot. But I will try i anyway. I do not think the heat sink will make it run cool, just a little less hot. Currently I have it on some rubber isolators which actually stick to the GO 450 because of the heat. And the heat sink is $1,32 incl shipping so why not.


----------



## jbr1971

Quote:
  


hifirobot said:


> There are heat sinks on Ebay for $1,32 that fit pretty well. Can't seem to find any black ones though. The ones below are without the adhesive, that stuff can be found on ebay as well. I will try to attach with a rubber band or something, hopefully it does not melt =)


 
  
 I strongly recommend that you do not use a rubber band to hold the GO and heat sink together. If you have a 720 or 1000, there is a good chance it will melt, depending on the size of the band.
  
 Double-sided thermal conductive tape would probably be your best bet if you can find it for a decent price online. From what I have read about it, I believe it will make the heat sink implementation much more effective.
  
 Jody


----------



## SilverTrumpet999

Once again, there is no need to use any type of heat sink. The materials are designed to dissipate that heat at steady state. Even if it might burn your skin if you held it long enough, it will not rise above the ignition point of paper. This is not a hazard. 
  
 You may actually damage the unit by attaching a heat sink, because the thermal conductivity between the sink and the amp will be poor unless you use a bunch of thermal paste - and even then it's probably still nonoptimal. Thus, the dissipation decreases and the actual electronics inside will be exposed to heat above their design. 
  
 If you don't know and are quite confident in how to make a _very good_ thermal coupling between two materials that weren't designed for it, the effects will be exactly the opposite of what you expect. For those who have applied heat sinks and reported lower temps on the sink fins, it's likely related in part to poor thermal conduction between the sink and the device.
  
 tl;dr - DO NOT attach a heat sink to your GO. Just don't do it. It's a solution in search of a problem which is actually more likely to cause the problem itself.


----------



## jexby

^This
+1


----------



## cuiter23

Wait, why are people getting the heat sinks? Isn't the GO rated for long term high temperature usage?


----------



## gikigill

No heat sink here and don't feel the need for one either.


----------



## jbr1971

cuiter23 said:


> Wait, why are people getting the heat sinks? Isn't the GO rated for long term high temperature usage?


 
  
 It is. Some people find the higher rated models get a little hot for their liking.
  
 Jody


----------



## cuiter23

jbr1971 said:


> It is. Some people find the higher rated models get a little hot for their liking.
> 
> Jody


 
  
 Thanks for the clarification Jody!


----------



## pearljam50000

I have the GO 720, how much mw@300ohm does it have?
Sorry I couldn't find the info anywhere


----------



## Lohb

Those 720 GO's were perfect for bitperfect output on Audirvana+ to Fostex T50RP.....judging by volume dial back on GO1000 which was not in bit perfect less than full volume at 75% with out blowing out my ears.


----------



## cuiter23

pearljam50000 said:


> I have the GO 720, how much mw@300ohm does it have?
> Sorry I couldn't find the info anywhere


 
  
 There's no clear cut answer. But look at this"
  
 http://lhlabs.com/force/geekoutsupport/1971-power-output-of-geek-out-for-different-loads
  
 I calculated for the 720 it should have around 30-40mws of power at 300ohms.


----------



## mandrake50

cuiter23 said:


> Wait, why are people getting the heat sinks? Isn't the GO rated for long term high temperature usage?


 

 Electronics don't like heat long term. I don't think that this is at all questionable. The device may well work for a period of time. Probably longer than most will keep them, especially something like the GO.
 Regardless keeping it cooler will make it last longer.
  
 Indeed I come form an era where heat kills. In aerospace, great care is taken to control temperatures.
  
 For the GO it is likely not a huge issue, but I do sit the GO 1000  on top of a big heat sink when it is convenient (which keeps it much cooler). I did not permanently affix a heat sink in the interest of portability. But I don't "like" the fact that it runs as hot as it does. Different strokes .. as they say.


----------



## mandrake50

jbr1971 said:


> I strongly recommend that you do not use a rubber band to hold the GO and heat sink together. If you have a 720 or 1000, there is a good chance it will melt, depending on the size of the band.
> 
> Double-sided thermal conductive tape would probably be your best bet if you can find it for a decent price online. From what I have read about it, I believe it will make the heat sink implementation much more effective.
> 
> Jody


 

Like this.
 Expensive compared to the heat sink... but not bad.  It will be a bit of a pain to remove the heat sink, but doable.


----------



## SilverTrumpet999

mandrake50 said:


> Electronics don't like heat long term. I don't think that this is at all questionable. The device may well work for a period of time. Probably longer than most will keep them, especially something like the GO.
> Regardless keeping it cooler will make it last longer.
> 
> Indeed I come form an era where heat kills. In aerospace, great care is taken to control temperatures.
> ...


 
  
 This is mostly FUD, with just a kernel of truth. Anything over 0 Kelvin has heat. Heat doesn't kill, heat over design limits kills. You are correct in one point: great care is taken to _control_ temperatures. 
  
 Uncontrolled heat kills. This is controlled. 
  
 I'm going to have to [citation needed] the claim simply placing the GO on top of a sink makes it cooler. I assume that's subjective info? Do you have actual case temp data to back that up? Because the thermal coupling from two adjacent pieces of aluminum is very poor. I imagine the sink does feel cool, though, for this exact reason.
  
 See also: everything Schiit makes, which uses the sheet aluminum case as a sink. Stuff gets warm, sure. Hot even. But within design limits, _this is not a problem_ and stating otherwise is FUD until proven differently. 
  
 The accuser gets to bring the evidence here, and I haven't seen any yet which isn't anecdotal and/or irrelevant to the discussion.
  
*Do not bother with heat sinks on the GO line.*


----------



## mandrake50

silvertrumpet999 said:


> This is mostly FUD, with just a kernel of truth. Anything over 0 Kelvin has heat. Heat doesn't kill, heat over design limits kills. You are correct in one point: great care is taken to _control_ temperatures.
> 
> Uncontrolled heat kills. This is controlled.
> 
> ...


 

 Some just like to over analyze..  I do have case temperature data taken with a calibrated infrared thermometer..
 Sitting on top of my heat sink changed the case temp by about 12 degrees C. Significant, maybe. For me it is, that is all that is important.
  
 Obviously you know better. Waste of time to argue or to even present data, your mind is made up.


----------



## gikigill

The Geek Out is a Class A design, it's meant to run hot. 

If you ever checked the temperature on a powerful Class A Krell you'd freak out.


----------



## miceblue

The heat from Class A amps is just wasted energy though because the amplifying transistors are always fully activated and results in its inefficiency. I don't think it would hurt to cool it just so long as the rest of the circuit gets the same cooling treatment.


----------



## gikigill

Exactly,a heatsink might lower the outer surface temperature but it would only result in a thermal imbalance, making things worse. Krell actually biases their latest Class A amps differently instead of fitting a heatsink and they run a bit cooler.


----------



## cuiter23

Hey guys, does anyone know why on my PC I can only have the volume on like 1-2 setting max before its gets too loud whereas on my MAC I can have the volume setting set halfway? 
  
 Both used with my Sony XBA-4. If anyone can help me find a solution for the PC that would be great as it would give me a lot more volume control and flexibility.
  
 Thanks in advance!


----------



## miceblue

cuiter23 said:


> Hey guys, does anyone know why on my PC I can only have the volume on like 1-2 setting max before its gets too loud whereas on my MAC I can have the volume setting set halfway?
> 
> Both used with my Sony XBA-4. If anyone can help me find a solution for the PC that would be great as it would give me a lot more volume control and flexibility.
> 
> Thanks in advance!



In Windows, the volume media keys control the analogue volume. I'm assuming your master volume is maximum in the LH Control Panel. 100% master volume is bit-perfect output to the Geek Out.

In OS X, the volume media keys control the master volume. The analogue volume sliders are usually always on maximum unless you manually change them in the Audio MIDI application.


----------



## cuiter23

miceblue said:


> In Windows, the volume media keys control the analogue volume. I'm assuming your master volume is maximum in the LH Control Panel. 100% master volume is bit-perfect output to the Geek Out.
> 
> In OS X, the volume media keys control the master volume. The analogue volume sliders are usually always on maximum unless you manually change them in the Audio MIDI application.


 
  
 How can I change this to make the PC volume controls more manageable?


----------



## miceblue

cuiter23 said:


> How can I change this to make the PC volume controls more manageable?



I'd just use the LH Control Panel and manually control the volume. If 100% master volume and 1-2 volume settings from your media keys (controlling the analogue volume) is too loud, then you should adjust the master volume to a really low level. The analogue volume control doesn't do anything if the master volume isn't 100% though, just for your information, so you'd have to manually adjust it every time you want to change it.


----------



## doctorjazz

I've always had to control volume FROM the LH app slider, the JRiver and Windows volumes don't do anything. Have to play with this a bit more later when I get home...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Set LH as default sound from Windows CP (or from volume icon - right click).
  
 Right click speaker icon and choose you're volume slider


----------



## cuiter23

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Set LH as default sound from Windows CP (or from volume icon - right click).
> 
> Right click speaker icon and choose you're volume slider


 
  
 Do you mean going into the speaker properties > levels tab > inputting volume #s manually? (i.e. 23)


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Nope, set Geek Out as the Default Sound device and use the system volume / speaker icon slider as the way to adjust your volume.


----------



## cuiter23

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Nope, set Geek Out as the Default Sound device and use the system volume / speaker icon slider as the way to adjust your volume.


 
  
 Haha yea thats what I do. Except it gets excessively loud even with the volume slider under 10%. So I have to keep the volume under 10% at all times and that limits my flexibility with volume control.


----------



## miceblue

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Nope, set Geek Out as the Default Sound device and use the system volume / speaker icon slider as the way to adjust your volume.



As I mentioned earlier, the Windows volume slider affects only the analogue volume in the LH Control Panel. If the volume is too loud with < 10% analogue volume, I'd suggest manually controlling the master volume slider in the LH Control Panel.


----------



## TonySunshine

does this potentially produce not bit-perfect output from the DAC to the amp?
  
 Quote:


miceblue said:


> As I mentioned earlier, the Windows volume slider affects only the analogue volume in the LH Control Panel. If the volume is too loud with < 10% analogue volume, I'd suggest manually controlling the master volume slider in the LH Control Panel.


----------



## cuiter23

miceblue said:


> As I mentioned earlier, the Windows volume slider affects only the analogue volume in the LH Control Panel. If the volume is too loud with < 10% analogue volume, I'd suggest manually controlling the master volume slider in the LH Control Panel.


 
  
 Thanks for your help! I will try it out.


----------



## cuiter23

tonysunshine said:


>


 
  
 +1 I would like to know this as well.


----------



## miceblue

tonysunshine said:


> does this potentially produce not bit-perfect output from the DAC to the amp?



From what I understand, the computer always outputs a bit-perfect signal into the DAC, but at less than 100% volume level, the DAC does internal processing to do the digital volume control. The ESS Sabre 9018K2M uses 32-bit signal processing for this volume control, and is how 1-bit DSD signals can still have digital volume control as well (usually it would be impossible to have digital volume control with a 1-bit signal).

So the short answer is yes, the signal is bit-perfect,on the computer-DAC connection, no it's not bit-perfect per se within the DAC itself if what I stated is true. Regardless of whether or not it's bit perfect, the real question is, can you hear it? ; )


----------



## TonySunshine

hah good point. Thanks for the explaination.
 My greatest frustration with the Geek Out 100 IEM is that the volume control sucks. on my surface pro 3, 8 is a bit too low and 10 is a bit too high. Getting to 9 is hard because the volume rocker does increments of 2. Lowering the gain in the control panel solved this. Thanks
  
 Quote:


miceblue said:


> From what I understand, the computer always outputs a bit-perfect signal into the DAC, but at less than 100% volume level, the DAC does internal processing to do the digital volume control. The ESS Sabre 9018K2M uses 32-bit signal processing for this volume control, and is how 1-bit DSD signals can still have digital volume control as well (usually it would be impossible to have digital volume control with a 1-bit signal).
> 
> So the short answer is yes, the signal is bit-perfect,on the computer-DAC connection, no it's not bit-perfect per se within the DAC itself if what I stated is true. Regardless of whether or not it's bit perfect, the real question is, can you hear it? ; )


----------



## miceblue

http://marketplace.lhlabs.com/products/geek-out-v2-usb-dac-headphone-amplifier


> 3D Printed Chassis
> 
> Utilizing the latest 3D printing technology available, Geek Out V2’s chassis allowed us the ability to radically optimize the form factor and design aspects that would have otherwise been impossible using traditional manufacturing methods. Furthermore, 3D printing allowed us the ability to incorporate built in heat sinks and ventilation chambers that reduce the radiant heat dissipated by Geek Out V2’s Class A amplifier as well as being able to incorporate non-parallel walls in the design structure to reduce internal vibration.
> 
> ...


----------



## AxelCloris

I considered trying the GO V2 with the Cavalli LC but I think I'll be holding off for the time being.


----------



## vhsownsbeta

axelcloris said:


> I considered trying the GO V2 with the Cavalli LC but I think I'll be holding off for the time being.



I'm looking into this too. It seems a little crazy to pair two unknowns though...


----------



## ejong7

axelcloris said:


> I considered trying the GO V2 with the Cavalli LC but I think I'll be holding off for the time being.


 

 Well coming from your GO SE...... XD


----------



## AxelCloris

ejong7 said:


> Well coming from your GO SE...... XD


 
  
 There's a GO V2 SE. 
  
 Seriously, if my GO SE had both a single ended and a balanced output I think it'd be my perfect portable DAC. I have balanced headphones and balanced amps that could be fed from a balanced GO. And if I understand it correctly the GO V2 SE will be less expensive than the GO SE; that's a win-win for people who missed out the first time around.


----------



## Kwangsun

Well, I'm returning my GO450. I liked it a lot but in the end, mine turned out to be defective and I can't be bothered to wait another 3 weeks for a replacement. Sending mine back and will be waiting for the GO V2 instead. As I understand it, there appears to be just one version of it but offers much more control over the amp's output. The GO450 felt a bit much for my IEMs but don't feel quite future proof with full sized cans. So back it goes. will miss it.


----------



## AxelCloris

GO V2


----------



## ejong7

axelcloris said:


> There's a GO V2 SE.
> 
> Seriously, if my GO SE had both a single ended and a balanced output I think it'd be my perfect portable DAC. I have balanced headphones and balanced amps that could be fed from a balanced GO. And if I understand it correctly the GO V2 SE will be less expensive than the GO SE; that's a win-win for people who missed out the first time around.


 

 GO V2 SE!? Great now I regret getting my GO100 earlier in the year -_-. Can we use sound promise to get that? hahahahaha


----------



## Joeybgood

are the specs/performance/construction of V2 enhanced/altered in any way from  V1 or is this mainly just a chassis/appearance change?(I suppose this was already addressed huh?) tks


----------



## longbowbbs

GO2 Beta with it's original siblings....Oh, that is a Pulse Infinity underneath...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Update review up tomorrow.


----------



## cuiter23

miceblue said:


> As I mentioned earlier, the Windows volume slider affects only the analogue volume in the LH Control Panel. If the volume is too loud with < 10% analogue volume, I'd suggest manually controlling the master volume slider in the LH Control Panel.


 
  
 Hi miceblue,
  
 Really appreciate all the help and love your video review on youtube! So just to clarify, the only way to change volume is I go into the LH control panel and click on output and move the analogue slider around. I find it weird that it starts off at -127db with my PC volume at 0 and jumps to -34db when my PC volume is at 1 and then jumps again to -24db (which is too loud) when the volume is at 2 (this is based on my PC volume scale from 0-10) The only way I counter this is to move the analogue slider on the LH control panel to around -29 to -30db which works but a bit cumbersome. Why couldn't LH labs move the ratios closer so I can have more control like I do on my mac?
  
 Also, controlling the master volume on the LH control panel automatically max out the volume on my earphones. I almost blew out my eardrums doing that lol...


----------



## miceblue

cuiter23 said:


> Hi miceblue,
> 
> Really appreciate all the help and love your video review on youtube! So just to clarify, the only way to change volume is I go into the LH control panel and click on output and move the analogue slider around. I find it weird that it starts off at -127db with my PC volume at 0 and jumps to -34db when my PC volume is at 1 and then jumps again to -24db (which is too loud) when the volume is at 2 (this is based on my PC volume scale from 0-10) The only way I counter this is to move the analogue slider on the LH control panel to around -29 to -30db which works but a bit cumbersome. Why couldn't LH labs move the ratios closer so I can have more control like I do on my mac?
> 
> Also, controlling the master volume on the LH control panel automatically max out the volume on my earphones. I almost blew out my eardrums doing that lol...



Hm well that's news to me. The master volume slider works like any normal volume slider to me; it's what OS X uses to control the volume too.

Master volume affects the 9018K2M digital volume, analogue slider affects the LH 64-bit digital volume. Analogue is kind of a misleading term.
0 dB master volume = bit-perfect signal and the analogue slider should only work the volume in this configuration; at less than 0 dB master volume, the analogue control doesn't do anything.


And yeah, Windows' volume steps are much higher than that of OS X, especially how in OS X you can have the fine-volume control with Shift+Alt+volume media key.


----------



## Madclimber

Hi everyone,
  
 I have been playing around using the Geek Out 450 with my iPhone 6plus and the Onkyo HD player app.  I picked up an external battery pack to power the Geek Out, but need the USB splitter cable.  Can anyone direct me on where to get the correct cable at a reasonable price?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

http://www.amazon.com/Apricorn-Power-Adapter-Cable-AUSB-Y/dp/B000JIOHDE/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1429278935&sr=8-8&keywords=usb+y+cable


----------



## chartwell85

The first review of Geek Out V2 is in the house!  
  
http://headphone.guru/geeking-out-for-the-2nd-time-preview/


----------



## bhazard

chartwell85 said:


> The first review of Geek Out V2 is in the house!
> 
> http://headphone.guru/geeking-out-for-the-2nd-time-preview/


 
  
 Nice!
  
 Any chance of an upgrade trade-in promo on the Geek Out 2 from the original Geek Out? Would be a nice gesture to us original backers.
  
 For instance, trade-in your original Geek Out 1000's for $100+ off. Could be useful if you guys can reuse the casings or other materials for your future manufacturing.


----------



## gikigill

Same here, if I can upgrade my Geek Out 1000 for a discount on the original.


----------



## Jazzi

bhazard said:


> Nice!
> 
> Any chance of an upgrade trade-in promo on the Geek Out 2 from the original Geek Out? Would be a nice gesture to us original backers.
> 
> For instance, trade-in your original Geek Out 1000's for $100+ off. Could be useful if you guys can reuse the casings or other materials for your future manufacturing.


 
 That would be fantastic, and I'd be happy with a smaller discount.  As someone who purchased the GO1000 in the past couple of months I'm really a little unsettled seeing it replaced with a newer model so quickly.  My fault, but I'll probably pass on this model without an incentive.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Its like you're smartphone. Its old after a year. 
  
 But if you're happy with it. You'll keep on using it.


----------



## cuiter23

Although it would be great for LH Labs to offer some sort of discount/rebate to current owners, from a business standpoint it's not a feasible option. They will have no use for the previous model and if they set a precedent for this, every new release will warrant some sort of buyback of a previous generation model.


----------



## Jazzi

cuiter23 said:


> Although it would be great for LH Labs to offer some sort of discount/rebate to current owners, from a business standpoint it's not a feasible option. They will have no use for the previous model and if they set a precedent for this, every new release will warrant some sort of buyback of a previous generation model.


 
 cuiter23, I agree with you, and they certainly won't miss 'little old me' sitting this one out.  I'd love to hear the new one, but I refuse to  buy new models every two months.   I'm sure the new one will be a monster!


----------



## Joeybgood

I hope  the bug situation has been ironed out with V2. Seems like something that really should be resolved before it's shipped/sold as a finished product. imo


----------



## AxelCloris

joeybgood said:


> I hope  the bug situation has been ironed out with V2. Seems like something that really should be resolved before it's shipped/sold as a finished product. imo


 
  
 Which bug? I've had no issues with the GO SE on the current firmware.


----------



## Joeybgood

axelcloris said:


> Which bug? I've had no issues with the GO SE on the current firmware.


 
 Yes.... I dl'd the latest firmware on my desktop setup and things are fine. When I recently hooked it up through my laptop ... bug/static. Apparently each source that the GO is utilize with needs to have a firmware fix?  I'm just saying that I'm hopeful that V2 will come out of the box not in need of a firmware update due to this same issue. I'm not the most tech savvy hombre but this is rather frustrating to me.


----------



## AxelCloris

joeybgood said:


> Yes.... I dl'd the latest firmware on my desktop setup and things are fine. When I recently hooked it up through my laptop ... bug/static. Apparently each source that the GO is utilize with needs to have a firmware fix?  I'm just saying that I'm hopeful that V2 will come out of the box not in need of a firmware update due to this same issue. I'm not the most tech savvy hombre but this is rather frustrating to me.


 
  
 Well firmware is on the device itself and the drivers will be on the computers. You only need to update the firmware once. If the computer needs a driver update that will be done on each device, yeah. I use mine on a Mac so there's no drivers to install. I never had volume jumps with the SE since it shipped with the 1.1 or 1.2 firmware (I forget which) but my GO 1000 on 1.0 had a couple of jumps.


----------



## Joeybgood

axelcloris said:


> Well firmware is on the device itself and the drivers will be on the computers. You only need to update the firmware once. If the computer needs a driver update that will be done on each device, yeah. I use mine on a Mac so there's no drivers to install. I never had volume jumps with the SE since it shipped with the 1.1 or 1.2 firmware (I forget which) but my GO 1000 on 1.0 had a couple of jumps.


 
 interesting.. I installed the most updated driver from the LH website on my laptop. Not sure what is going on with that. I was watching a streaming movie from HBOGO , listening thru cans via my GO 1000 and 2/3 of the way thru the movie the computer  locked up..solid... Nothing would free it up. I unplugged the GO and it instantly unlocked and all was well. Not sure what's going on with this.


----------



## Mannytorres

joeybgood said:


> interesting.. I installed the most updated driver from the LH website on my laptop. Not sure what is going on with that. I was watching a streaming movie from HBOGO , listening thru cans via my GO 1000 and 2/3 of the way thru the movie the computer  locked up..solid... Nothing would free it up. I unplugged the GO and it instantly unlocked and all was well. Not sure what's going on with this.


 

 I would suggest opening a ticket for this, Also i would keep an eye on the CPU usage during this and make sure the CPU is not being over burdened.


----------



## Joeybgood

Very solid advice. Tks MT


----------



## vhsownsbeta

Just a heads up regarding the Geek Out V2 campaign (I know this is a Pulse thread but there have been a number of posts about the V2 reorder here already). LH have quietly rescinded the 'free shipping' offer for people who preorder V2 by using your referral code.


----------



## chartwell85

vhsownsbeta said:


> Just a heads up regarding the Geek Out V2 campaign (I know this is a Pulse thread but there have been a number of posts about the V2 reorder here already). LH have quietly rescinded the 'free shipping' offer for people who preorder V2 by using your referral code.


 

 We did? First I heard of it and I'm the one who created it.


----------



## vhsownsbeta

chartwell85 said:


> We did? First I heard of it and I'm the one who created it.




According to a support thread with Gina. I am happy to be corrected if this is not the case.



Edit: response here http://www.head-fi.org/t/677263/light-harmonic-geek/1560#post_11542273


----------



## dmbr

Sorry, there's a lot to dig through here....

Is there a coming newer version of the Geek Out 1000 than what's on Amazon at the moment?


----------



## doctorjazz

V1, I'd guess...


----------



## CEE TEE

V2 will have gain settings of 100 and 1000 with an "infinity" version that has gain settings of 100/450/1000 IIRC.


----------



## Mannytorres

Yup that is correct,
  
 We have the V2 in its pre-order stage at:
  
 http://marketplace.lhlabs.com/products/geek-out-v2-usb-dac-headphone-amplifier
  
 check it out, its some pretty cool stuff.


----------



## chartwell85

Ready to geek out, literally? Check out Larry describing, in detail, the PCB design aspects of the new Geek Out V2.


----------



## jexby

#LHLabsCheezIt about to go viral!


----------



## CEE TEE

Great video of Larry sharing...thank you!!


----------



## vhsownsbeta

PureDSD

http://lhlabs.com/415/

I can't say it's a capability that I have ever thought I needed but it's great that Larry is pushing things forward with V2


----------



## miceblue

vhsownsbeta said:


> PureDSD
> 
> http://lhlabs.com/415/
> 
> I can't say it's a capability that I have ever thought I needed but it's great that Larry is pushing things forward with V2



It's not attributed to the GO V2 at all though, it's a separate DAC.
http://lhlabs.com/force/announcements/4106-puredsd-announcement#64809

It sounds like the PS Audio DirectStream DAC in function without the need of special software.


----------



## vhsownsbeta

miceblue said:


> It's not attributed to the GO V2 at all though, it's a separate DAC.
> http://lhlabs.com/force/announcements/4106-puredsd-announcement#64809
> 
> It sounds like the PS Audio DirectStream DAC in function without the need of special software.


 

 Really? There is a tab for it on the V2 marketplace page...
  
http://marketplace.lhlabs.com/collections/portable-audio/products/geek-out-v2-usb-dac-headphone-amplifier


----------



## AxelCloris

To me the page is making it seem like PureDSD is some kind of new communication standard intended to improve DSD playback and that it won't be limited to just the GO V2.
  
 I haven't visited LH Labs since noon PDT so I don't know anything beyond what I glanced on the page.


----------



## miceblue

vhsownsbeta said:


> Really? There is a tab for it on the V2 marketplace page...
> 
> http://marketplace.lhlabs.com/collections/portable-audio/products/geek-out-v2-usb-dac-headphone-amplifier



Oh never mind, I misinterpreted it. Yeah it looks to be a new protocol/interface for streaming DSD music to the DAC.


----------



## Larry Ho

axelcloris said:


> To me the page is making it seem like PureDSD is some kind of new communication standard intended to improve DSD playback and that it won't be limited to just the GO V2.
> 
> I haven't visited LH Labs since noon PDT so I don't know anything beyond what I glanced on the page.


 
 You are right.
  
 This is a new protocol standard that we could like to share with other software and DAC partners. Not only limited to GO V2. I would love to see that implemented in Geek Pulse, Vi, Geek Wave too...
 But one step, one product at one time. 
  
 The major theme here is:   How to make whole DSD setup process easier, and how to remove all unnecessary waste of bandwidth by improving the current DoP.
  
 Thanks,


----------



## Larry Ho

axelcloris said:


> There's a GO V2 SE.
> 
> Seriously, if my GO SE had both a single ended and a balanced output I think it'd be my perfect portable DAC. I have balanced headphones and balanced amps that could be fed from a balanced GO. And if I understand it correctly the GO V2 SE will be less expensive than the GO SE; that's a win-win for people who missed out the first time around.


 
  
 Well... I got the balanced output input mostly from you and two other geek force. 
  
 It's not easy. But we did it.
  
 Larry


----------



## doctorjazz

Have to echo AxelCloris-the GO SE is just a fabulous sounding little imp of gear, only sorry it isn't balanced, but not worth springing for another when this one sounds so good. Have compared to other gear, more "real" sounding, more body to instruments, more.....goodness.
If it is still available, and you can spring for it, the V2 SE (if it is anything like V1) is a great little amp/dac.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Forgotten about this, but LH Labs Thank you! Thank you!


----------



## Mannytorres

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Forgotten about this, but LH Labs Thank you! Thank you!


 

 Yes Geek Out referrals have begun to ship as well, along with Pulses.


----------



## AxelCloris

mannytorres said:


> Yes Geek Out referrals have begun to ship as well, along with Pulses.


 
  
 The Pulse referrals have started shipping or the GO referrals are just shipping with backed Pulses?


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Almost hit the button!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Selling like hotcakes..


----------



## jexby

man those V2+ Batches are flying off the shelves!
 got Batch 3 into my cart, but Checkout wouldn't work and then landed back into Batch 5.
  
 my iPhone will enjoy this slice of Larry Ho genius.


----------



## AxelCloris

jexby said:


> man those V2+ Batches are flying off the shelves!
> got Batch 3 into my cart, but Checkout wouldn't work and then landed back into Batch 5.
> 
> my iPhone will enjoy this slice of Larry Ho genius.


 
  
 You didn't back a Stream originally?
  
 I find your lack of faith disturbing.


----------



## kostaszag

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Almost hit the button!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Not me. Not this time. Maybe next year I will buy me a used one. But no crowdfunding with LHlabs for me again.
  
 Ever.


----------



## Mannytorres

axelcloris said:


> The Pulse referrals have started shipping or the GO referrals are just shipping with backed Pulses?


 

 Just the Geek outs are shipping in the Pulse referral program, we will then ship Pulse units earned inline with FF Pulse campaign (there wasn't that much so it should slow fulfillment down)


----------



## Mannytorres

Whoa It Will NOT SLOWDOWN SHIPPING,
  
 (crazy how two letters can almost cause a storm) i meant it "shouldn't slowdown shipping.


----------



## miceblue

I dunno if anyone here would be interested, but up for sale is my matte-finish red GO 1000. It also comes with a LH Labs passed QC Audio Precision sheet, so that's something different from other GO listings.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/765499/lh-labs-geek-out-1000-red

I don't use it very much since I have a GO 450 and its line out voltage is enough to be used as a DAC.


----------



## germay0653

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Almost hit the button!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  


m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Almost hit the button!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Same here!  Waiting to see what the Infinity price will be.


----------



## Jazzi

miceblue said:


> I dunno if anyone here would be interested, but up for sale is my matte-finish red GO 1000. It also comes with a LH Labs passed QC Audio Precision sheet, so that's something different from other GO listings.
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/765499/lh-labs-geek-out-1000-red
> 
> I don't use it very much since I have a GO 450 and its line out voltage is enough to be used as a DAC.


 
 Same boat.  For the time being I'll enjoy my now obsolete 4-month old GO1000.


----------



## greenkiwi

I just received a GO1000 for my referral bonus.  Very very cool... I'm pleasantly surprised at how good it sounds.  Not that I really thought it wouldn't sound good... but you don't really know how much of a difference it is until you start listening.  Even through my Senn Momentums that I have at work for the time being, it is a big improvement.
  
 Might have to pick up the V2+.


----------



## Kwangsun

Question: anyone here using USB isolators for their Geek Out? I'm having ground issues and I think I need to get one. Any suggestions on a cheap and good one? I found one with 4 ports (forgot the name) and it was 200 bucks.


----------



## nicolo

kwangsun said:


> Question: anyone here using USB isolators for their Geek Out? I'm having ground issues and I think I need to get one. Any suggestions on a cheap and good one? I found one with 4 ports (forgot the name) and it was 200 bucks.


 
  
 Get the Schiit Wyrd. Nothing else needed.


----------



## doctorjazz

I run my GO SE out of a Vaunix Lab Brick, recommended on one of these forums. Works well, haven't compared it to other options.


----------



## Lohb

The Teradak USB isolater is about 1/4 the price of the brick, plus you get the y-cable that would be about the same price as the isolator if you bought it alone.
  
  
 Does anyone know the main SQ improvement on V2 ?


----------



## Kwangsun

I've seen usb isolators like the teradak. Don't they suffer from transfer rate bottlenecks? I saw that most won't work on sample rates over 24bit 96khz.


----------



## vhsownsbeta

kwangsun said:


> I've seen usb isolators like the teradak. Don't they suffer from transfer rate bottlenecks? I saw that most won't work on sample rates over 24bit 96khz.




Not 'cheap' but this is getting pretty good impressions elsewhere on the web

http://uptoneaudio.com/products/usb-regen


----------



## jexby

vhsownsbeta said:


> Not 'cheap' but this is getting pretty good impressions elsewhere on the web
> 
> http://uptoneaudio.com/products/usb-regen




I own the Regen green and it's awesome.
Improved Regen Amber coming soon!


----------



## vhsownsbeta

jexby said:


> I own the Regen green and it's awesome.
> Improved Regen Amber coming soon!




I'm in on the next shipment. Have you used it with your GO? Impressions?


----------



## Lohb

kwangsun said:


> I've seen usb isolators like the teradak. Don't they suffer from transfer rate bottlenecks? I saw that most won't work on sample rates over 24bit 96khz.


 

 Nope the data-leg is a separate line direct to any USB DAC. The Teradak's purpose is cleaner linear USB power merged with data line just before the DAC.


----------



## pearljam50000

Is the Magni 2 uber a big improvement over the Geek Out's 720 amp?


----------



## Kwangsun

lohb said:


> Nope the data-leg is a separate line direct to any USB DAC. The Teradak's purpose is cleaner linear USB power merged with data line just before the DAC.


 
 Could you send me a link to where I can get one? Have you tried on 24/192Khz and above? DSD?
  
 I've checked their website but their order form looks like it was intended for bulk orders. Also, do you have an enclosure?


----------



## Lohb

kwangsun said:


> Could you send me a link to where I can get one? Have you tried on 24/192Khz and above? DSD?
> 
> I've checked their website but their order form looks like it was intended for bulk orders. Also, do you have an enclosure?


 

 Everything lit-up sample rate-wise (over 44/16) on Audirvana + preferences...so if i had the over 44/16 files it would have played.
 If you contact them direct (Teradak) they are $20 cheaper than ebay including airmail shipping. I rolled that saving over to part-pay a custom cryo up-occ gold plated USB plugs data-only cable (red below) before. Not claiming a higher grade data cable will do anything more, just some nice cabling is all.


----------



## Kwangsun

*Will it work with my DAC?*
It works with dac's that support up to 96Khz/24bit, it does not work with 192Khz/24bit sample rates because they require USB High Speed 480Mbit/s. 
 Also, some dac's requires more than 200mA power. This might be if they have a headphone amplifier, or a MCU that draws more power.
 You can always send it back for a full refund in case it doesn't work with your equipment. You can ask us first for an opinion about if your equipment is supported.
 
This is from the description from a similar item. Aside from the power output, it mentions that since it only supports Full Speed but not High Speed (480Mbit/s) the transfer rate is limited to 24/96Khz. The Teradak appears to be Full Speed as well, but only up to 12Mbit/s like this item is. So I would like to know if you had any issues playing DSD, and files up to and above 192Khz.


----------



## Lohb

kwangsun said:


> *Will it work with my DAC?*
> It works with dac's that support up to 96Khz/24bit, it does not work with 192Khz/24bit sample rates because they require USB High Speed 480Mbit/s.
> Also, some dac's requires more than 200mA power. This might be if they have a headphone amplifier, or a MCU that draws more power.
> You can always send it back for a full refund in case it doesn't work with your equipment. You can ask us first for an opinion about if your equipment is supported.
> ...


 

 The legs are separate.
 Data and power.
 Teradak is not a bottleneck.Data goes straight from my Air to my GO1000 before at the data + power end merger plug .*Your data is not going through Teradak U9....it's a 1-trick pony....only linear cleaner power supply* is all it does.
 I never played over 44/16 but my Audirvana + registered all sample rates good to go on preferences....DSD was blanked because i had not chosen DSD over PCM or whatever it was....as long as your USB out is up to the task of over 96/24 you will be fine.


----------



## Kwangsun

I'll be sure to shoot Teradak an email. I'm short of funds these days so as much as I would like to get the Wyrd, Vaunix or the Uptone, I can't at the moment. I will probably get any one of those in the future but I just need something for now so I can use my GO1000.
  
 Thanks to everyone for their suggestions! I actually learned a lot today. 
  
 Lohb: special thanks for your replies. Much appreciated and I hope I didn't come off sounding too skeptical. I trust your advice and will email Teradak now. 
  
 Thanks again everyone.


----------



## germay0653

kwangsun said:


> I've seen usb isolators like the teradak. Don't they suffer from transfer rate bottlenecks? I saw that most won't work on sample rates over 24bit 96khz.


 

 Is the TeraDak unit you're referring to the X1(U9)?  If yes that works on the power leg, not the data leg, so it should not affect the data transfer rate at all. I'm sending DoP at 384K from PC to the Geek Out 720.  Just to repeat the TeraDak unit only sends Power (+5V and GND) the lpatop/PC/Music source is sending only DATA +/-.  As Lohb indicated the TeraDak unit only passes POWER over the power leg of a split cable.  Kwangsun, what cable are are you referring to when you saw most not working?


----------



## Aiyah

pearljam50000 said:


> Is the Magni 2 uber a big [COLOR=660099][COLOR=660099]improvement[/COLOR] [/COLOR]over the Geek Out's 720 amp?




Ah, something I can answer! To my ears, I found the Geek Out 450 overall a better sounding combo. The Geek Out had better bass impact and was simply more fun. MM stack had better imaging but felt quite sterile otherwise.


----------



## cuiter23

pearljam50000 said:


> Is the Magni 2 uber a big improvement over the Geek Out's 720 amp?


 
  
 The Magni 2 is more powerful. However, my Geek Out 720 is more detailed and cleaner sounding than my Modi/Asgard 2 combo.


----------



## Aiyah

cuiter23 said:


> The Magni 2 is more powerful. However, my Geek Out 720 is more detailed and cleaner sounding than my Modi/Asgard 2 combo.




And people keep telling me I'm crazy for not buying into the modi hype!


----------



## Lohb

Is this a different OPAMP to V1 ? I forgot which OPAMP it uses.
  
*Output Stage OpAmp:* Texas Instruments TPA6120A2
*Amplifier Output Bias:* Class A
  
 EDIT: Just found the comp. chart...


----------



## Aiyah

lohb said:


> Is this a different OPAMP to V1 ? I forgot which OPAMP it uses.
> 
> *Output Stage OpAmp:* Texas Instruments TPA6120A2
> *Amplifier Output Bias:* Class A
> ...


 
  
 Yeah, pretty much the exact same thing under the hood. I doubt very much there will any real SQ increase. However, definitely looking forward to adjustable gain. That will be very useful indeed.


----------



## Lohb

Balanced-out might give wider sound-stage/instrument separation...?
  
 Is it possible to build a TRSS to dual 3-pin XLR into a big amp etc ? I see 4 lines at one end and 6 at the other unless one pin is dead at output end.....


----------



## miceblue

lohb said:


> Is it possible to build a TRSS to dual 3-pin XLR into a big amp etc ? I see 4 lines at one end and 6 at the other unless one pin is dead at output end.....



Pin 1 of a 3-pin XLR connector is just to chassis ground or shield.
TRRS - L+/R+/L-/R-
3-pin XLR - cable shield/L+/L-, cable shield/R+/R-


----------



## Lohb

Thanks.
 Are there tonal/SQ shifts in this V2 ? I see the jitter upgrade and a couple other things over V1 but wonder if it adds up to a better sound than V1.


----------



## Aiyah

lohb said:


> Thanks.
> Are there tonal/SQ shifts in this V2 ? I see the jitter upgrade and a couple other things over V1 but wonder if it adds up to a better sound than V1.



Considering the op amps and DAC are the same I very much doubt it


----------



## nicolo

aiyah said:


> Considering the op amps and DAC are the same I very much doubt it


 
  
 Some people have posted pretty positive impressions about the GO v2, one of whom went on to say that the stock GO v2 sounded evne better than the GO v1 SE ( first link below):
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015#post_11565953
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015/30#post_11570351
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015/45#post_11571175
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/764957/sf-bay-area-meet-impressions-may-2-2015/45#post_11571804


----------



## doctorjazz

nicolo said:


> aiyah said:
> 
> 
> > Considering the op amps and DAC are the same I very much doubt it
> ...




Well, it could be true that the pain vanilla GO V2 beats the SE V1, but I'd be surprised, given the upgrade in components in the SE. Meet impressions in general, while welcome, are also a bit suspect, given that 1) they're usually fairly short 2) conditions are noisy and far from optimal 3)the associated gear may not be familiar 4)there is a Wow factor most of us have when we hear something new we like, and it often takes a while getting familiar with something new to really get a handle on it. Case in point: to read early reports on the HE-1000, it is 1)the second coming 2)not as good as the HE-6 3)too laid back 4)too aggressive, especially in the highs 5)the most involving listening experience ever 6)detailed, but clinical and boring 6)much better than the HE-6, especially with a pad change...
you get the drift...the SE V1 is SO much better sounding than my 1K V1...I have no doubt the SE V2 builds on the V1 and improves the sound (sad for V1 owners, but that's the electronics biz), but I'd take the above with a grain of salt My $0.02, of course, have no First hand way to know


----------



## noa2450

I'm very temptet by the GO v2/v2+, but due to all the marketing nonsense I'm now thinking of settleing for the GO1000 for my upcomming Alpha Dogs.

The GO1000 has recieved plenty good reviews paired with the ADs, but since the price for the GO720 is almost half of the 1000s in EU at the moment, I am wondering wether the 80£ more is worth it. How much better do you think the 1000s would drive Alpha Dogs?

Best regards.


----------



## miceblue

If drive in your definition means better sound, then they sound identical. 

If drive in your definition means volume, obviously the 1000 is louder.


----------



## noa2450

miceblue said:


> If drive in your definition means better sound, then they sound identical.
> 
> If drive in your definition means volume, obviously the 1000 is louder.




Thank you! By drive I meant both - making the cans perfom the greatest % of their potential, whilst ofcause supporting enough power for the volume to go to 'wanted levels'.

In my case wanted volume levels would range from low to relatively high, involving levels, without needing to go extremely high.

If there would be no difference in SQ, I think I will be pleased with the 720.

Thanks again.


----------



## CEE TEE

Here's what I think: the 720 is in-between the 1000 and 450 in bass level and price and power.  If you don't need the power and the extra bass with your cans that the 1000 has, you can go 720.  Then you have something in the middle between 450/1000 in 3 aspects (cost/bass/power).  
  
 I have all three of those Geek Outs and would have sold the 720 but it is one of the rare blue ones.  If I get a V2 or most probably V2+, I'll be keeping the 450 for some aspects of it and selling both 720/1000 since the V2 does at least 100 & 1000 with two gain options.  In case anyone was gonna ask: I think the 450 is just awesome for the price + as a DAC to another amp + for imaging and a smooth/polished sound that is slightly tunable with the two new firmware options. I have notes on the V2 and it is really impressive but you should NOT throw out or sell your 450s immediately because they are still great.


----------



## upsguys88

I have the AD and I prefer the GO 1000 to my GO 720 (I have both) as it allows for the headphones to really shine and seem to have added space compared to the GO 720 on my AD cans.


----------



## kameenadesi

how does the Geek Out 1000 compare in sound quality to the ifi iCAN micro? (although one is a DAC/amp and the other is just an amp)


----------



## namaiki

I've got one of these on the way. I just hope that it pairs as well with the HD800 as some people say.

I do have a question though. Why does LH labs still have a cope of the 1.0 firmware on their website? Ie that for people who want to use the 3D awesomefier? Also does that firmware have the volume bug?


----------



## doctorjazz

That is the firmware with the volume bug, I believe. That was the main reason for changing the controls to the filters.


----------



## namaiki

Hmm, just received my "new" Geek Out 1000 from Amazon. The outside box was torn, and the USB extender cable was missing, which is the most annoying part. I definitely don't want to accidentally snap or damage the USB connector which is why the USB extender cable would have been good to have.
  
 Second thing is that the serial number of the unit I received is <100. Does this mean anything at all? Well, the Geek Out appears to work and was already flashed to firmware 1.5 which is good I guess.
  
 About the TCM and FRM modes, is it true that the Geek Out defaults to TCM mode every time you plug it in or does it remember which filter you picked the previous time?
  
 Regards,
 namaiki


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

It remembers your filter settings.
  
 The USB extender is IGG campaign exclusive.
  
 You should be glad you had < 100 serial number. They have more tighter testings.


----------



## miceblue

It does not remember your filter settings and it does default to TCM mode every time you plug it in. I prefer FRM mode myself (concave button).


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Hmmm are you sure Mice? I set mine on FRM. And when I plug and unplug it, it sounds the same. 

Let me check it again. 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


----------



## miceblue

Placeeeebo! : p

http://lhlabs.com/force/geekout/2081-geek-out-firmware-1v5-upgrades-and-change-log?start=250#34479
[quote="Larry] There will be TWO modes only. Default will be TCM and you could switch to FRM back to forth by a single button.

The original ESS digital filter in 1V0 is GONE now. And we replaced by much better one... Sound quality improvement come from here... 
 [/quote]


http://lhlabs.com/force/geekout/2081-geek-out-firmware-1v5-upgrades-and-change-log?start=250#34479
[quote="Larry] Hi, there

1. Use blue led as filter indication is my original idea too. But that blue led circuit is directly linked with hardware relay to switch 3D too. So we could not use that blue led for this issue. Then we decide to switch to current display mode.
(And default is TCM mode)[/quote]


It's never remembered the digital filter mode. The volume settings are still remembered on the other hand, so if you use 0 dB master volume in OS X and switch to Windows, it will still be 0 dB.


I can usually tell which digital filter I'm listening to, even when I don't remember which one it's on.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/687851/geek-pulse-geek-desktop-dac-amp-by-light-harmonics/8010#post_11697101


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Yes seen that.
  
 And I do confirm THE DEFAULT WAS TCM MODE. Unless you change to FRM. 
  
 And my experience will stay at is unless switched back.
  
 Give it a listen. Switch to FRM. Plug and unplugg if there is a difference.


----------



## Kwangsun

namaiki said:


> Hmm, just received my "new" Geek Out 1000 from Amazon. The outside box was torn, and the USB extender cable was missing, which is the most annoying part. I definitely don't want to accidentally snap or damage the USB connector which is why the USB extender cable would have been good to have.
> 
> Second thing is that the serial number of the unit I received is <100. Does this mean anything at all? Well, the Geek Out appears to work and was already flashed to firmware 1.5 which is good I guess.
> 
> ...


 
 I got mine without the extension cable. I think someone mentioned that the 1000 doesn't come with an extension cable for some reason. The 450 did, but not the 1000. It's not a big deal as the original slacker cable isn't that good anyway. Just get a mediabridge 6 inch usb extension cable and you're good to go.


----------



## AxelCloris

kwangsun said:


> I got mine without the extension cable. I think someone mentioned that the 1000 doesn't come with an extension cable for some reason. The 450 did, but not the 1000. It's not a big deal as the original slacker cable isn't that good anyway. Just get a mediabridge 6 inch usb extension cable and you're good to go.


 
  
 Like Michael mentioned above, the slacker was only for Kickstarter and early IGG backers. Retail sales won't include the slacker. It doesn't matter which version of the GO you've purchased.


----------



## Joeybgood

kwangsun said:


> I got mine without the extension cable. I think someone mentioned that the 1000 doesn't come with an extension cable for some reason. The 450 did, but not the 1000. It's not a big deal as the original slacker cable isn't that good anyway. Just get a mediabridge 6 inch usb extension cable and you're good to go.


 
 yes... mine came sans USB cable as well. They are inexpensive enough to pick up off of Amazon or Ebay.(like Kwangsun said)


----------



## doctorjazz

Agree, don't use the Slacker cable, have an Audioquest one I use instead.


----------



## vhsownsbeta

doctorjazz said:


> Agree, don't use the Slacker cable, have an Audioquest one I use instead.




+1

http://www.audioquest.com/usb_digital_analog_converter/dragontail


----------



## cuiter23

vhsownsbeta said:


> +1
> 
> http://www.audioquest.com/usb_digital_analog_converter/dragontail


 
  
 +2 this is a must get accessory for the GOs. Only 15 bucks why not?


----------



## MikeyFresh

+3, the Media Bridge is nice but the DragonTail is definately better and worth the extra money, unlike the LH Labs Extender which is overpriced in my opinion at $49.
  
 The DragonTail is part of AQ's Carbon series, a very well known and reviewed USB cable.


----------



## glassmonkey

Instead of buying a tiny Dragontail or Lightspeed extender, you could also just buy a good adaptor like this one and use any cable you have. I found my Supra USB cable to be an upgrade over the included cable with the GO1000 and my Lightspeed 2G is an improvement over that.
  
 I'm not convinced that the Dragontail is that good value (I haven't heard it with GO1000, though). It is just too short for most of my applications. It is about 6 inches long including the connectors.


----------



## doctorjazz

The length is a PIA...


----------



## doctorjazz

Y'know, I just gotta say...
I'm here at my PC, have J River playing Oz Noy's Twisted Blues V1 (jazz/blues/fusion with a real blues edge), feeding my GO Special Edition (using a Vaunix Lab Brick), and headphones are the HE-1000.
Man, this thing sounds FANTASTIC!!! The GO SE is amazing, getting sounds out of the HEK that are just fabulous. These boys DO know good sound, as I've noted before. Was thinking of using a headphone amp from the GO SE, but, I'm not sure why I should bother...Seems to be doing a fine job driving these babies!!!


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

That is exactly what i have arrived into conclusion. Was thinking of a separate portable amp... But it sounds so good already (GO1000) so why bother?


----------



## doctorjazz

Really...I might experience a tiny bit more "air", "detail" going line out into one of my 2 amps on hand (MicroZOTL, Ray Samuels HR-2), but I suspect the PIA factor would be high, the gains would be small. The only thing I wish for would to be freed from the tyranny of the PC ("give me batteries, or give me death!!!!). Almost bit on the + version coming out for that reason...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

The only portable amp I have right now is a Headstage Arrow 4G. When I introduced it to the chain it became "grainy". Took it off.
  
 Almost bit on the + Infinity myself. But thought I have a fully tricked Wave comming. Which I feel way better since it has Femtos.


----------



## doctorjazz

Same here, went for the full tilt Wave and the full tilt Vi Tube infinite/Ultimate/whatever they call it, in my LH craziness, (and more...), enough is enough...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

What I have in waiting is the Wave and HPA and thats it.


----------



## doctorjazz

No HPA, hit my limit at that point. Did go for music server, which I haven't heard about in a while. Fully tricked out Wave should be +, plus...


----------



## longbowbbs

doctorjazz said:


> Same here, went for the full tilt Wave and the full tilt Vi Tube infinite/Ultimate/whatever they call it, in my LH craziness, (and more...), *enough is enough...*


 
 ???????
  
 I am sorry...I do not understand what you mean here......


----------



## doctorjazz

Struggle with that concept myself...don't worry, won't last, don't know what‰ got into me!


----------



## doctorjazz

Ordered and Waiting on the Regen, so you know how long it will last!


----------



## doctorjazz

It was a sweet moment, though...


----------



## nicolo

Got the Regen last week. It's much much better than the Wyrd. Much larger soundstage and imaging, dynamics, bass slam and definition, cleaner treble and midrange. It's also more detailed and resolving with better instrumental separation.


----------



## doctorjazz

Cool, have a wait for mine, August, maybe...


----------



## Joeybgood

Does AQ make a micro to micro usb cord? I believe that's what is needed to connect the V2+ to an android phone . yes?


----------



## MikeyFresh

joeybgood said:


> Does AQ make a micro to micro usb cord? I believe that's what is needed to connect the V2+ to an android phone . yes?


 

 I don't believe they do, however it's not as simple as just micro to micro connectors, it needs to be an OTG (On The Go) cable in order for the phone to operate in USB Host mode. 
  
 No Android phone will work with any USB DAC without an OTG cable, or an OTG adapter.


----------



## doctorjazz

And, from my experience with multiple otg cables, the otg android music app, and my HTC M8, sometimes it doesn't even help using all that stuff. Never could get out to work for my M8.


----------



## Joeybgood

Hmmmmm. .that's rather discouraging. I was hoping to stream Tidal through the v2+ but if I'd have to run it from the headphone out jack then what's the point?


----------



## MikeyFresh

joeybgood said:


> Hmmmmm. .that's rather discouraging. I was hoping to stream Tidal through the v2+ but if I'd have to run it from the headphone out jack then what's the point?


 

 Not necessarily, it just means you need an Android phone that is USB Host mode compatible, and an OTG cable.
  
 What phone do you have?


----------



## Joeybgood

Samsung galaxy 4


----------



## MikeyFresh

joeybgood said:


> Samsung galaxy 4


 

 The Galaxy S4 does support OTG/USB Host mode, so you should be good to go with a proper OTG cable or OTG adapter.


----------



## Joeybgood

I'm not having any luck finding a micro to micro usb otg cable on eBay or Amazon. Can anyone recommend a retailer/website?


----------



## peter123

joeybgood said:


> I'm not having any luck finding a micro to micro usb otg cable on eBay or Amazon. Can anyone recommend a retailer/website?




I think that your best shot is to get a regular micro usb to USB A female otg cable from your phone and then use a regular USB micro to USB male cable to the dac. At least this wat you'll not spend a lot of money on a cable (I'm actually not even sure that micro to micro otg cables exist ) that may or may not work with your phone and dac since there's still a hit and miss on what devices work well together.


----------



## MikeyFresh

peter123 said:


> I think that your best shot is to get a regular micro usb to USB A female otg cable from your phone and then use a regular USB micro to USB male cable to the dac. At least this wat you'll not spend a lot of money on a cable (I'm actually not even sure that micro to micro otg cables exist ) that may or may not work with your phone and dac since there's still a hit and miss on what devices work well together.


 

 Thats what I use, a $5.60 Startech OTG cable with one male Type B micro end, and one female Type A end.
  
 You can then connect any other USB cable you already have to the female end to accomodate the input side requirement of whatever OTG device (such as a DAC) that you wish to use.


----------



## Joeybgood

mikeyfresh said:


> Thats what I use, a $5.60 Startech OTG cable with one male Type B micro end, and one female Type A end.
> 
> You can then connect any other USB cable you already have to the female end to accomodate the input side requirement of whatever OTG device (such as a DAC) that you wish to use.


 
 that makes sense, I just didn't want to have a couple feet of USB cable(s) to contend with. I want my portability to be as neat  and unencumbered as possible. A straight up micro male to micro male otg  of 4-6" would be ideal imo. It is what it is though.


----------



## MikeyFresh

joeybgood said:


> that makes sense, I just didn't want to have a couple feet of USB cable(s) to contend with. I want my portability to be as neat  and unencumbered as possible. A straight up micro male to micro male otg  of 4-6" would be ideal imo. It is what it is though.


 

 You could chance *this one at $40* and pray it works.


----------



## Joeybgood

mikeyfresh said:


> You could chance *this one at $40* and pray it works.


 
 hmmmmm... that looks pretty much perfect!!(if it works of course) that is def the right connection for my Samsung and I THINK that is what the V2+ is implemented with too...  hopefully!! TKS!


----------



## bclark8923

For anyone that uses their Geek Out as a DAC only, what cable do you recommend?


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## bclark8923

Whoops I mean the analog to RCA out (or XLR!) getting GO V2+ Infinity


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## germay0653

mikeyfresh said:


> I use a *Double Helix Cables Single Strand* to very good effect in my bedroom/desktop system.
> 
> A bargain performance-wise at $99, however DHC is so popular that they are perpetually backordered, so you have to be patient or look elsewhere.


 

 Yeah, Peter makes some kick-ass cables.  Your patience WILL be rewarded!  I have three pairs for my cans, Complement 3 hybrid copper/silver, Complement 4 all copper and Complement 4 all silver.  The Comp4 silver just blows me away with the level of detail it reveals.


----------



## Kwangsun

bclark8923 said:


> For anyone that uses their Geek Out as a DAC only, what cable do you recommend?


 
 I use a mediabridge 6 inch extension cable. I haven't tried any uber expensive cables with my GO so I can't comment on 100 dollar cables or whatever. As far as I can tell, the Mediabridge cables are top notch quality and work perfectly to my ears.


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## miceblue

I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66


----------



## Kwangsun

mikeyfresh said:


> The OP clarified he was asking about an analog output side cable (3.5mm to RCA), not a USB extension.


 
 my bad. The cable I use, not specifically for GO but have preferred since moving from the states is Choseal. It's reasonably priced and very good quality. 
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/111372419817?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## nicolo

Removed


----------



## auee

Since the price LH Labs charges for the remaining units (red) is now $199.00 would you recommend purchasing this unit or waiting for V2 which is $100.00 more? As a note, I do not need the balanced out and will be using it exclusively with a MacBook Air for portable use.


----------



## doctorjazz

Haven't heard the V2, seems it still works on the same basic circuit. The balanced and the battery (on the +) would be appealing to me, but if you don't have need for these things, I'd go with the Geek Out (has done fine by me, though I did wind up replacing it with the Geek Out Special Edition...may put the original Geek Out up for sale one of these days...)


----------



## auee

Thanks for getting back to me so promptly. What is the Special Edition and is it still available? And does the unit get too hot to use plugged directly into laptop without extender cable with laptop sitting on my lap and upper legs? I appreciate your assistance very much.


----------



## jbr1971

auee said:


> Thanks for getting back to me so promptly. What is the Special Edition and is it still available? And does the unit get too hot to use plugged directly into laptop without extender cable with laptop sitting on my lap and upper legs? I appreciate your assistance very much.


 
  
 The Special Edition was only available in limited numbers and sold out right away. The only way to get one is if you find a used one for sale (and from what I have seen, that is very rare).
  
 Regardless of whether the Geek Out is plugged into the computer directly, or with an extender cable, it will get pretty hot. That is just the nature of the Class A amplifiers built into the unit. However, that is normal, and it will work fine with your laptop.
  
 Jody


----------



## doctorjazz

Jody doesn't need confirmation from me, of course, but the Special Editions are limited edition versions of some of the products, they get offered in limited amounts for a limited time, then they are gone. There was one for the GO V2 as well, sold out. There are versions of it for many of LH Labs products. But, I went for the SE BECAUSE I thought the Geek Out 1000 I started with was so good sounding, I had to hear what they did when they pulled out all the stops. You shouldn't be unhappy with a GO 1K, especially for the current prices.



auee said:


> Thanks for getting back to me so promptly. What is the Special Edition and is it still available? And does the unit get too hot to use plugged directly into laptop without extender cable with laptop sitting on my lap and upper legs? I appreciate your assistance very much.


----------



## pbear

auee said:


> Since the price LH Labs charges for the remaining units (red) is now $199.00 would you recommend purchasing this unit or waiting for V2 which is $100.00 more? As a note, I do not need the balanced out and will be using it exclusively with a MacBook Air for portable use.


 
  
 I have a GO IEM 100, which is supposed to sound very similar to the red GO 1000 V1, just lower power for use with sensitive IEMs rather than full-sized cans. At the SF meet on Saturday, CEE TEE was generous enough to let me listen briefly to his GO V2+ Infinity (thanks CEE TEE!). With my JH Audio Roxannes, the V2+ Infinity totally blew my GO IEM 100 out of the water. It had a very lush and liquid sound, while still being very detailed.  CEE TEE said the GO V1 sounds a bit dry by comparison. I agree with that with, the GO V1 is still very impressive, but compared to the V2+ Infinity it was relatively clinical and a lot less engaging. I can't wait to get my own V2+ Infinity (preordered in the 2nd batch)!
  
 So I'd say absolutely the V2 is worth $100 more. Whether it's worth waiting for depends on how patient you are. New orders probably won't ship until late September at the earliest.


----------



## auee

I am not that patient. I am doing a lot more listening with the MacBook Air and the headphone out just does not cut it. I think I will just purchase the V1 before the end of the week from LH Labs unless in the meantime I become aware of a member offering a pre-owned one for sale. And I very much appreciate the time and effort all of have taken to assist me. It is never easy to purchase an audio product without hearing it first and seeing it in operation.


----------



## miceblue

auee said:


> I am not that patient. I am doing a lot more listening with the MacBook Air and the headphone out just does not cut it. I think I will just purchase the V1 before the end of the week from LH Labs unless in the meantime I become aware of a member offering a pre-owned one for sale. And I very much appreciate the time and effort all of have taken to assist me. It is never easy to purchase an audio product without hearing it first and seeing it in operation.



I'm selling a V1 if you're interested.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/765499/lh-labs-geek-out-1000-matte-red-price-drop


----------



## doctorjazz

Beat me to it, but you've been listing for a bit, all yours!


----------



## Audio Addict

pbear said:


> I have a GO IEM 100, which is supposed to sound very similar to the red GO 1000 V1, just lower power for use with sensitive IEMs rather than full-sized cans. At the SF meet on Saturday, CEE TEE was generous enough to let me listen briefly to his GO V2+ Infinity (thanks CEE TEE!). With my JH Audio Roxannes, the V2+ Infinity totally blew my GO IEM 100 out of the water. It had a very lush and liquid sound, while still being very detailed.  CEE TEE said the GO V1 sounds a bit dry by comparison. I agree with that with, the GO V1 is still very impressive, but compared to the V2+ Infinity it was relatively clinical and a lot less engaging. I can't wait to get my own V2+ Infinity (preordered in the 2nd batch)!
> 
> So I'd say absolutely the V2 is worth $100 more. Whether it's worth waiting for depends on how patient you are. New orders probably won't ship until late September at the earliest.




The V2+ Infinity was $435 or maybe $486 during the campaign.


----------



## pbear

audio addict said:


> The V2+ Infinity was $435 or maybe $486 during the campaign.


 
  
 Right. My comment on the V2 being worth the extra $100 was based on my own experience with the V2+ Infinity (which is certainly more expensive than the V2) and the GO IEM 100 and the GO 450 (both  V1), and other people's comparisons of the V2 and the V1. It's possible that there is a much bigger difference between the V2+ Infinity and the V1 than between the V2 and the V1, but other people have posted similar impressions of how much better the V2 is than the V1.


----------



## doctorjazz

I've only heard the V1 and the V1 Special Edition, but it would seem to me comparing the V1 to the V2 infinity is like saying the new Lexus is better than the old Toyota. Well, yeah...


----------



## CEE TEE

Hello!  The V2 (non-plus, non-infinity version) prototype was a definite step-up over the already good V1, IMO.  I returned that unit but got to spend time with it in my home over a few weeks of comparing. At first, the V1 and V2 were both good but with some differences- different flavors. After acclimating to the V2 though, it just seemed more engaging, euphonic, and resolving with more top end extension plus a more enveloping headstage when I would go back to the V1. 
  
 Based on V2 prototype making the V1s seem a touch "dry", I figured that I could replace all of my GO V1s with one V2+ Infinity and no longer need an Apricorn cable or external battery chained, taking up all kinds of room. (Not as portable when everything is chunked together with cables for maximum performance.) I ordered a V2+ Infinity from Indiegogo.
  
 I have already sold my V1 450 & 720.  I think I am keeping a V1 1000 (already bought and sold it once) just for use with my low output laptop and movies with Philips Fidelio X1.  V1 is nice and small and can drive the X1 loud enough for the Out Of Your Head DSP software and movie watching comfortably with my 11" laptop.  The bassy X1 phones like to rumble with movies so it's a fun rig.
  
 At the SF Meet, I just picked up a loaner/beta version of the V2+ Infinity and haven't had much time to try it yet...but I will be trying it against the GO V1 1000 that I have to see if I hear all of the same improvements that I heard with the V2 prototype.  Glad a few people did try the V2+ beta at the meet and they also found it to sound good. You can comb through some SF meet impressions if you want to see them.
  
A few things different from the V2 non-plus version that I can see so far: There is an on/off switch with LED indicator that also seems to communicate the charge level when using the micro-USB charging input jack.  A _separate_ micro-USB input is near the two 3.5mm SE & Balanced outputs for taking the digital signal into the device. The 3.5mm jack nearest the micro-USB input is the TRRS jack which is balanced.  The other 3.5mm jack is a single ended female TRS plug jack. The V2+ basically runs two separate full amplifiers, one for each channel...to reduce cross-talk amongst other things. You can get balanced cables for your phones or you can get adapters if you want to try the TRRS balanced jack with your phones.  It is not quite as simple as getting an adapter on Amazon, though. I started looking and many cheap 3.5mm TRS female to TRRS male adapters are for voice headset compatibility and won't work in this application. I ended up getting referred to Mimic Cables for being able to make any kind of adapter combo here (thank you, zerodeefex). I will be ordering a 3.5mm TRS to 3.5mm TRRS & a 6.25 TRS (metric way of saying 1/4") to 3.5mm TRRS and that will cover all of my phones with the V2+ and any of the balanced DAPs that I have in the future (won't need to recable everything).  Without any manual, I have also figured out the gain button and LED. Blue is for IEMs, Magenta/Hot Pink is for the medium gain and Red is for high gain.  There are also 4 white LEDs to mark sample rate or DSD, with another button and what seems to be 3 different digital filter options. Suppose there is FRM, TCM, and another to choose from (Blue/Green/Red).    
  
 As for the chassis, I am still getting used to the 3D printed prototype chassis over the aluminum.  Many commented on the heat with V1 and worrying about how hot the aluminum got. Even building heatsinks. I *never* felt in any danger of burns or melting things with my V1s even when outright grabbing them wondering because I would read worrisome comments. I suspect some people will be in the "3D is lighter/cooler" camp and some will like the aluminum V1 style chassis better for how solid they feel. If it works and it sounds better, I am going to go with that unit- metal or plastic. I kind of want to try to design an iPhone case that incorporates the V2+ anyway...  
  
 Another thing I'll share is that while I did enjoy the GO V1 SE that I had on loan from another HF'er, I found it just a little more refined and slightly better resolving than the regular V1 450 with the 450 being a little more "punchy" overall. To me, the "regular" V2 bests the V1 SE easily and is a bigger jump than V1 to V1 SE. Again, nobody needs to throw out any V1s. They are really good. It is just that there is a noticeable amount of difference in sound that I heard and I am reporting to you guys.
  
 I'll keep updating as I can and hopefully my portable and desktop rigs are in good enough shape now that I will find myself studying up on music way more than gear. The gear is fun though- we keep getting more great-sounding choices...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
*EDIT (9/8/2015):* Now from what I understand, one can use an adapter for a balanced cable to balanced TRRS plug but *not* from a single-ended cable to a balanced TRRS plug.  I changed my order with Mimic Cables.  
  
 I also now have a new 4-pin XLR balanced Audeze cable and an adapter that I can use with my HD800 4-pin XLR balanced cable as well:


----------



## doctorjazz

Hard to believe the regular V2 is better sounding than the V1 SE, but I have no way to say since I haven't heard the V2. Not sweating this, though, have the fully tricked out Wave eventually coming, expect it should at least be as good as any V2.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

OH NO! My V1 SE has been bested...


----------



## doctorjazz

Hearing will be believing!!!!!



m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> OH NO! My V1 SE has been bested...


----------



## SiGiE

doctorjazz said:


> Hard to believe the regular V2 is better sounding than the V1 SE, but I have no way to say since I haven't heard the V2. Not sweating this, though, have the fully tricked out Wave eventually coming, expect it should at least be as good as any V2.


 

 I've read this in other forums, and I too find it hard to believe that the regular V2 is better sounding than the V1 SE. Because, in many occasions,  i found my V1 SE more enjoyable than my IDSD Micro or Hugo, and AK240.  
  
 Anyways, I'm getting the V2 SE, and knowing Larry, he'll make sure it will not only sound way much better than the regular V2 -  maybe will beat the crap out of the 380.  
  
 And if Larry decides to go Dual DACS, as well.  That my dear friends would make this Tiny Beast Totally Wicked.  Even Da Vinci would be the Proud!


----------



## doctorjazz

Yeah, it'll take me longer to get it, but the fully tricked out Wave should be similar, with DAP functionality, just patience...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

+ those femtos (crossfinger)
  
 Want it so much to be good (Wave SE)  to smack those snobs that i know carrying their....


----------



## AxelCloris

I don't think my GO SE is going to be bested by the standard GO V2. The V2 Infinity may give it a run for the money and I fully expect the V2 SE to trump mine, but I doubt the base model will take the crown. I believe that the V2 will trounce the original GO line. Same goes for my Wave, it's decked out completely so I imagine that it will beat out my GO SE.


----------



## vhsownsbeta

SiGiE said:
			
		

> .And if Larry decides to go Dual DACS, as well.  That my dear friends would make this Tiny Beast Totally Wicked.  Even Da Vinci would be the Proud!




Dual DACs? Has that been discussed somewhere??


----------



## Pablo Albino

Folks,
 I owned a GO 1000 and I'm enjoying it!
 However, I'm experiencing an issue with JRiver (OSX and Win 8).
 My mediacenter was configured as showed in the print screens. And with DSD files, I loose the volume slide and the output is maximum and very loud. When playing PCM files in any resolution, the volume slide is active.
 Deactivating the bitstream DSD everything is ok! Any advice?
 Audirvana+ works flawless...


----------



## doctorjazz

I've never been able to get the volume to work properly...have to use the LH app slider to control the volume, never could find the settings to get it to work correctly.


----------



## auee

I am having trouble making fine volume adjustments listening with the Geek Out 1000 on my MacBook Air and playing music with iTunes. If I set the volume within iTunes (via the slide) to full and adjust volume with the volume buttons on the top row on the keyboard music is either too loud or too low. Should I set the volume on max with the buttons and use the volume slide within iTunes to set the volume? Use both the volume slide in iTunes and the volume buttons? What should I do in a manner that does not compromise the sound quality?


----------



## Madeupword

auee said:


> I am having trouble making fine volume adjustments listening with the Geek Out 1000 on my MacBook Air and playing music with iTunes. If I set the volume within iTunes (via the slide) to full and adjust volume with the volume buttons on the top row on the keyboard music is either too loud or too low. Should I set the volume on max with the buttons and use the volume slide within iTunes to set the volume? Use both the volume slide in iTunes and the volume buttons? What should I do in a manner that does not compromise the sound quality?


 

 How about on your keyboard, Shift + Alt/Option + Volume button?


----------



## auee

That did it; *thank you* for help and not making me out to be an idiot. It always amazes me how finding the right volume for a song has such an affect on my enjoyment of it.
  
 So far I could not be enjoying the Geek Out 1000 more. I am grateful to the member from whom I bought it; the members who took the time to write about and recommend it and LH Labs for bringing it out. I will read about your experiences with V.2 but since I know no one who will be buying one I expect to have this version for sometime to come. Unless I go to a head-fi meeting that occurs periodically in Dallas I am isolated from all the gear you guys discuss. It is good for my wallet but bad for my ears.


----------



## mandrake50

Hey guys,,, Did I not read about somebody that makes a precision 5 volt USB hub. At the time I think it sounded too expensive at in excess of $200. I believe that it was a 4 port USB regulated bench type supply. Some may have discussed it as a decent substitution for the 5 volts on the  LPS from LHL. I have spent a good hour searching the forums and  goggle... my search mojo is down this evening.
  
 The thing I am thinking about is a small 4 port regulated USB hub...
 Any help greatly appreciated.


----------



## doctorjazz

mandrake50 said:


> Hey guys,,, Did I not read about somebody that makes a precision 5 volt USB hub. At the time I think it sounded too expensive at in excess of $200. I believe that it was a 4 port USB regulated bench type supply. Some may have discussed it as a decent substitution for the 5 volts on the  LPS from LHL. I have spent a good hour searching the forums and  goggle... my search mojo is down this evening.
> 
> The thing I am thinking about is a small 4 port regulated USB hub...
> Any help greatly appreciated.




I'm using a Vaunix Lab Brick, which was recommended waaaaaaay back...


----------



## mandrake50

doctorjazz said:


> I'm using a Vaunix Lab Brick, which was recommended waaaaaaay back...


 

 Thank you Doctor.
 I am pretty sure that the one you mention is the exact unit I am thinking of.
 I guess my memory is better than my search skills !


----------



## doctorjazz

I can never find this stuff in a large thread either...had a feeling it was what you were referring to. Like it, btw. Glad to help.


----------



## Kwangsun

Anyone here try the Geek Out with the Uptone Regen? Is it worth the 175 asking price, such that you'd get it over the 200 dollar Vaunix?


----------



## auee

Question regarding Audio Midi setting when using Geek Out 1000 with iTunes and no after market player to play 16/44.1 ALAC files 
  
 When I plugged the device in the output format was 384000.0 Hz. I subsequently changed this to 44100.0 Hz which is the native rate of the music in my library. I find the music more natural with this setting. Has anyone experimented with the output format settings and if so, what were your findings?
  
 As an aside, I think my enjoyment will be further improved by purchasing a music player Pure Music® Version 2.


----------



## doctorjazz

kwangsun said:


> Anyone here try the Geek Out with the Uptone Regen? Is it worth the 175 asking price, such that you'd get it over the 200 dollar Vaunix?




I'm not sure on this, but I think they do different things, and one could use both. At least, I plan to try it, use the Vaunix now with my Geek Out Special Edition, have the Regen on order, I'll post if it makes a difference.


----------



## Kwangsun

doctorjazz said:


> I'm not sure on this, but I think they do different things, and one could use both. At least, I plan to try it, use the Vaunix now with my Geek Out Special Edition, have the Regen on order, I'll post if it makes a difference


 
 Looking forward to it!


----------



## vhsownsbeta

kwangsun said:


> Looking forward to it!




Regen is a reclocker first, power supply second. It takes my Concero up a notch. Cleaner background and seemingly less 'bloom' in the low end. I will be using it with GOV2 when it arrives...


----------



## uncola

for anyone curious, I upgraded from win 8.1 to win 10 last night and my geek out is still working just the same as it always did


----------



## doctorjazz

Since I got the Geek Out, I have had PC volume issues. Sometimes I get sound through my powered speakers when no headphone is connected, sometimes I don't. Sometimes I can listen to internet music or video, sometimes I can only listen to JRiver. And, I always have to control the volume through the LH Labs app slider, which defaults to full power. I tried the links on LH Labs help section, didn't help. Anyone able to post another link that might help? Thanks.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

how's the sound? (Win 10) Mine thinned out and the volume. lowered down. Will decide to revert to old OS. 

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


----------



## uncola

mickey the sound seems exactly the same.. I thought maybe it would be as you described if I listened to music using directsound instead of wasapi in jriver.. but even music in youtube sounds the same volume level..   using a homebuilt desktop pc.  I think the mobo is a mix of intel ivy bridge and VIA usb controller.. dunno if that matters.  oh also schiit wyrd and using as dac only
  
 here's some music


----------



## germay0653

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> how's the sound? (Win 10) Mine thinned out and the volume. lowered down. Will decide to revert to old OS.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk


 

 Michael, what mode are you using in JRiver (KS, ASIO, WASAPI, etc.)?  Not that it should make a difference but who knows.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Using KS all the time. When the problem arised shifted to ASIO to experiment and experienced the same kind of output (thin, low volume). WASAPI what?


----------



## germay0653

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Using KS all the time. When the problem arised shifted to ASIO to experiment and experienced the same kind of output (thin, low volume). WASAPI what?


 

 Your what hurts?


----------



## auee

I have a question regarding the amp aspect of the Geek Out 1000. With V-Moda M80 headphones, the volume is louder when plugged directly into the headphone output of my MacBook Air compared to when plugged into the 47Ohm output of the Geek Out. Is there a problem with the device?


----------



## gikigill

Plug it into the 0.47 not the 47 since that is meant as a line out.


----------



## doctorjazz

Is that so? I thought it was for harder to drive headphones.


----------



## AxelCloris

gikigill said:


> Plug it into the 0.47 not the 47 since that is meant as a line out.


 


doctorjazz said:


> Is that so? I thought it was for harder to drive headphones.


 
  
 Both. But the M-80 should be used out of the 0.47ohm output, it's not tough to drive.


----------



## doctorjazz

True, and I know you can use it for line out with the proper settings (though, as I posted above, I don't think I've ever figured out all the correct settings, still have trouble getting sound when I'm streaming on the computer, and still have to use the LH Labs app slider for volume...actually miss the volume controls on the Geek Out. Don't miss the full blast volume, but I still get that if I don't get to the slider when I start listening, it defaults to the loudest volume, ouch). Have used the Geek Out Special Edition line out to my MicroZOTL2, driving the HE-1000, really nice


----------



## AxelCloris

I've used the GO SE often as a DAC running LO to an amp. I've never used the slider for volume control, I always managed that on the amp itself. And when I use the GO by itself I simply use the volume controls on the computer (OS X). Haven't run into any issues yet.


----------



## gikigill

The 47 ohm is great for high impedance headphones. The HD650, Beyer 600 ohms and a few others sound great from it.


----------



## auee

Thanks for advice fellows. You guys always come through. I appreciate the sound using this device.


----------



## doctorjazz

Sure, when I use an external amp, it controls the volume. But when I use GO alone, the PC volume controls don't work, the JRiver volume controls don't work, nothing but the LH Labs app slider. Have never figured out how to get it to work correctly.


----------



## greenkiwi

Is anyone having problems with their Geek Out not remembering the last volume setting.
  
 1 out of 4 times that I use my Geek out, the volume is set back to 100%
  
 My system is
  •    MacBook Pro 
  •    GO 1k - v1.5  (Connected to either a hub or my Apple Thunderbolt display) 
  
 It is my work laptop.  I bring it to work and plug it into a hub every day.
  
 It is really frustrating to have to worry every time that I go to play music that I might BLAST my ears out.


----------



## miceblue

Volume issues should not really exist if you're using the new 1v5 firmware. It seems that you have the older version on-board, and since you use OS X, there's no way to upgrade it unless you use Boot Camp with Windows.

The only time it's existed for me with the new firmware is when I leave it on max volume for line-out and it remembers that the next time I use it and I use it for headphone out. XD


----------



## doctorjazz

I wish that were true...I have upgraded software, I'm pretty sure (not home now). No longer have the volume buttons on my Geek Out Special Edition, it controls the filter. I use Windows 7 Professional. Each time the Geek Out is reconnected, or I open JRiver (Ponoplayer20), the volume defaults to maximum. I can't control my volume from anywhere except the LH Labs app slider. I also have problems using internet or other sources with sound-no sound from anything but JRiver. I'm sure there is some sort of settings fix, but I haven't been able to find it. I've blown my ears out on numerous occiasions when I forget, often connect an external amp just to HAVE ANOTHER way to control volume to avoid the blast. I've posted before, no responses, if anyone has any ideas what to do (or a good link-no help from the LH help site), I'd really appreciate it. Love the sound, hate the UI/useability!


----------



## greenkiwi

Mine is definitely the latest version.
  
 https://support.lhlabs.com/support/solutions/articles/5000633039-light-harmonic-driver-and-firmware-files
  
 This seems like an issue where the volume for the device isn't remembered.  or the device isn't remembered and it thinks it is a new device and sets the volume to 100%.
  
@doctorjazz I totally hear you on having an external amp in place.  I'm thinking that I'll have to do the same, which of course defeats the purpose of having a GO 1000. 
  
 Is there a way to internally set the max volume?


----------



## doctorjazz

There is a setting I use in JRiver for maximum setting at all times (forget exactly what they call it, comes to that), that's where I do it.


----------



## greenkiwi

I think that if I were using it with JRMC as my only source I'd do that and be golden.


----------



## doctorjazz

I only have it working with JRiver. Wish I could get the rest of the PC sound to work (and even then, have to bypass the volume of the GO SE as noted above).


----------



## greenkiwi

I did some experimenting.  Basically every time the computer thinks that the GO is different, it maxes out the volume.  This seems to happen if the device is swapped between USB ports... or sometimes just plugging the hub into the computer in the morning.


----------



## doctorjazz

That's exactly my experience.


----------



## jbr1971

greenkiwi said:


> I did some experimenting.  Basically every time the computer thinks that the GO is different, it maxes out the volume.  This seems to happen if the device is swapped between USB ports... or sometimes just plugging the hub into the computer in the morning.


 
  
 Every time the Geek Out is connected to the computer the volume is automatically reset to max as it is read by the OS as a "new" device each time.
  
 There is no functionality in the Geek Out to store volume levels, it is all managed on the computer side.
  
 Jody


----------



## greenkiwi

I had thought that the reason that you guys removed having your own volume controls was to alleviate this problem so that the volume would remain consistent.
  
 It's actually not every time, it's a fairly random/non-predictable time.  
  
 I really hope that you have a solution for this with the V2.  Having this sort of behavior is just not very nice for users.  Particularly with portable/desktop devices.  I can understand saying that a devices that are in a true home system.  Actually, I can't even see it there.  Having the volume reset to max is just dangerous to ears and equipment.


----------



## miceblue

I have zero issues with the volume though...all my computers always remember the last used volume settings.


----------



## doctorjazz

Wish I could say the same thing, improved a bit when they removed the volume controls, by but still happens regularly on my PC. Just changing headphones I'd enough to make it happen...must break the usb connection for a second, and it defaults to full volume. Very annoying...think I may go with a dedicated amp there, but the Geek Out Special Edition high output generally doesn't need it, and space is tight. I'd say it is a big issue.


----------



## Kwangsun

Is it safe to use one of these on the GO? I think my laptop has issues with load currents to the GO due to the GO's power requirements. Thought I'd give this cable a try. 
  
 So is it safe? or am I asking for it?


----------



## vhsownsbeta

kwangsun said:


> Is it safe to use one of these on the GO? I think my laptop has issues with load currents to the GO due to the GO's power requirements. Thought I'd give this cable a try.
> 
> So is it safe? or am I asking for it?


 

 I used something similar with my GOV1 and Anker battery without any issues...


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## Kwangsun

Yeah, did a bit of reading and as it turns out, all it does is increase current, which I need, and keep the voltage constant, which is also what I need. Great! Now my GO is powered properly and works like a charm!


----------



## auee

miceblue said:


> I have zero issues with the volume though...all my computers always remember the last used volume settings.


 

 Same with me; Geek Out 1000 and MacBook Air.


----------



## doctorjazz

Not my PC, have to be REALLY careful with the volume...


----------



## namaiki

doctorjazz said:


> Not my PC, have to be REALLY careful with the volume...


  

 I think it should be okay as long as you always stick to using the same USB port.


----------



## doctorjazz

Yes, but even the slight jiggle that occurs when changing headphones can be enough to break contact and reset volume to maximum in my experience.


----------



## mks100

I am trying to resolve an issue with my Unit and cannot get assistance from LH Labs.  I have a 2015 Windows 10 Laptop with an i7 Processor.  I have installed the latest firmware for the Geek Out 1000 and the Light Harmonic Control Panel.  A couple of questions...
 1.  Both the Windows Control Panel and the Light Harmonic Control Panel show a maximum Output of 32 bit/192,000 Hz.
 2.  My JRiver Media Center 20 Plays fine up to 32 bit/352,800 Hz.  If I try to up sample to 32 bit/384,000 Hz I get pops and clicks.  I changed the Buffer Size but the pops and clicks are still there.
 ...LH is telling me it is most likely a limitation of the Laptop and/or an issue with JRiver.  As I have an i7 Processor I can't imagine it would be  a limitation of the PC (although it only allows up to 32 bit/192,000 Hz in the Control Panel).  Any thoughts?  Any assistance would be very much appreciated.  Thank you.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Try increasing buffers:
  
 Either on your LH Control Panel.
  
 Or in JRMC, under Tools>Option>Audio Device>Device Settings 
  
 or both..
  
 GO can play up to DSD128
  
 On JRMC , under Tools>Option>Settings>Bitstreaming
 Tick/Choose DSD


----------



## mks100

Thank you for the quick reply.  I have the LH Control Panel set to 8,192 Samples (Max).  I also set JRiver to the maximum of 500 milliseconds.  Still hearing pops and clicks.


----------



## doctorjazz

I don't understand these pops and clicks...I have the GO SE/1K, also have a CEntrance HiFi M8. Don't get these sounds with the GO, get them terribly on my PC (Windows 7 Professional) when I use the M8. I've sent it back to them twice, they can't find anything wrong. This HAS to be in settings somewhere, but I'm at a loss to say where as well...


----------



## mks100

To be fair, up to 32 bit/352,800 Hz has no pops or clicks and sounds terrific.  Just wondering why I am getting the pops and clicks with 32 bit/384,000 Hz.  DSD is a little strange as well.  Have to start a song multiple times for it to "lock".


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

LH Control Panel try up it Safe and 16K  
  
 Try also other USB ports..preferably USB 3.0
  
 What I7 processor you have and how much RAM?
  
 Go to task manager>performance and see if your processor has too much activity during playback...


----------



## mks100

The max setting from the LH Control Panel is 8,192 (tried all Modes).  I have tried all 3 (USB 3.0) ports on my PC (no USB 2.0).  i7-5500U @ 2.4 GHz w/ 8 GB of RAM.  Processor is up to 6% during playback.  Thanks again.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

CPU and RAM is ok...CPU is not overworked during playback.
  
 Funny that you can't set buffers on the LH Control Panel much higher. You might have an older driver.
  
 So 8192 might not be enough. Try the new driver: LH Labs Driver 2.29
  
 And set to 16384


----------



## mks100

Well Double Dumb Ass on me.  I thought V 2.23 was the latest Driver.  Let me give it a shot!  Thank you!!!


----------



## mks100

Didn't work.  Even tried 32,768 samples.  Back to square one.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Yeah was thinking it will not help. It might be your settings on JRMC....
  
 Wait a little


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

If you must upsample to 32/384
  
 You need to do this settings:
 Audio Device: LH ASIO
 Device Settings:  DSD in Bitstream in DoP format (checked)
 Bitstream: NONE (if you want all) / DSD (if you want DSD to remain as is) 
 Settings>DSP & Output Format>Output Enconding: NONE
 Sample Rate: Set everything to 384.000Hz
  
  
 Me I upsample to DSD128
  
 My Settings are:
 Audio Device: LH ASIO
 Device Settings:  DSD in Bitstream in DoP format (checked)
 Bitstream: DSD
 Settings>DSP & Output Format>Output Enconding: 2xDSD in DoP Format
  
 Give a try mine...
 You will have all PCM upsampled to DSD128. Try it if you like it.
  
 There was two particular track that always gave me pops and clicks...it was Billie Jean and Beat it on Michael Jackson's - Thriller Album.
 The rest of the material was ok...Have you tried different materials?


----------



## mks100

Still receiving pops and clicks with the settings you listed for 32 bit/ 384,000 Hz.  No issues with your preferred settings or 32 bit/ 358,200 Hz.  Just curious why the 384,000 Hz setting does not work more than anything.  Will play with your settings for a bit and continue to figure out the 384,000 Hz piece.  I have tried multiple Tracks with multiple formats.  Still get the initial stuttering and have to use Windows volume with DSD with your settings.  Truly appreciate all of your help.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

A bit curious myself will try it out on mine..because AFAIK mine worked perfectly on that rate....will let you know


----------



## mks100

Very noticeable with quiet passages and even with the Track paused @ 384,000 Hz.  Sounds like I have my old Vinyl back.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Bro I have no no problems 352.8K material upsampled at 384 
  
 One more thing did you TICK: Use Large Buffers under Buffering under Device Settings (assuming you use ASIO)?
  
 Hope you'll resolve yours.. now going to bed. NYT.


----------



## mks100

Yup it's clicked.  Appreciate all of the help!


----------



## uncola

the 192KHz thing is a limitation of the windows directsound mixer I think.  Have you tried the geek out with different usb ports or another computer?  In addition to being a hardware issue with your geek out, it could be the usb bus of your pc not being able to handle 384KHz up to spec..  I don't remember if I ever tried 384KHz with my go450 or not in jriver.. dsd 2 worked ok though


----------



## CEE TEE

*Edited my older post comparing V1 to V2 for the balanced TRRS adapter notes:*
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/2085#post_11776697
  
_Now from what I understand, one can use an adapter for a balanced cable to balanced TRRS plug but *not* from a single-ended cable to a balanced TRRS plug.  I changed my order with Mimic Cables.  _
  
_I now have a new 4-pin XLR balanced Audeze cable and an adapter that I can use with my HD800 4-pin XLR balanced cable as well._
  
 Purchased on Amazon from a seller:


----------



## dacfun

cee tee said:


> *Edited my older post comparing V1 to V2 for the balanced TRRS adapter notes:*
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/711267/light-harmonic-geek-out-em-1000-impressions-thread/2085#post_11776697


 
  


> The 3.5mm jack nearest the micro-USB input is the TRS plug which is single-ended.


 
  
 I think there's a mistake in your post, the 3.5mm jack closer to the usb input is balanced TRRS.
  
 https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpdesk/attachments/production/5030259565/original/V2%20%20pic2.jpg?1438281195


----------



## Roll

mks100 said:


> Very noticeable with quiet passages and even with the Track paused @ 384,000 Hz.  Sounds like I have my old Vinyl back.


 
  
 Have u tried these settings?
  
 https://support.lhlabs.com/support/discussions/topics/5000036005
  
 He mention: Buffering should be 100 miliseconds and not larger or the geek will start to click on audio like a dirt LP...


----------



## mks100

Yes those were my original settings (the exception being I do not see JRiver in the Sound Control Panel.  Only the Geek Out and my On Board Realtek).  Still hear the pops and clicks.  Thanks for the assistance.


----------



## CEE TEE

dacfun said:


> I think there's a mistake in your post, the 3.5mm jack closer to the usb input is balanced TRRS.


 
 Thanks, dacfun! Fixed.


----------



## AutumnCrown

why would you rather use the 450 instead of the 1000? What is the advantage?


----------



## Kwangsun

autumncrown said:


> why would you rather use the 450 instead of the 1000? What is the advantage?


 
 The 1000 is too powerful and since it uses the window's volume control doesn't exactly increment (step, scale?) as well as the 450 in my opinion. The 450 is sort of a good compromise between typical headphones. The 1000 is really more suited to driving high impedance headphones. We're talking like 250 ohms and above. I have used it with my AKG Q701 rated at 62 ohms and they work fine. Only need between 20-32 on windows volume so you know that the GO1000 has serious power. But I don't use it with my IEMs.


----------



## Kwangsun

mks100 said:


> Yes those were my original settings (the exception being I do not see JRiver in the Sound Control Panel.  Only the Geek Out and my On Board Realtek).  Still hear the pops and clicks.  Thanks for the assistance.


 
 I had a similar experience with my GO1000. If it's an issue with the player settings then I can't help since I use foobar, but if you're noticing the issue on any player using any file type (and bitrate) then maybe you're experiencing similar issue as I did. Turns out my laptop isn't well suited to powering the GO1000. It needs too much power and at that draw the current is a bit unstable. Also, powered hubs didn't really get along with my GO so I ended up getting a Y USB cable which solved the issue.


----------



## greenkiwi

I actually think that the GO might have killed my Thunderbolt display.  It's power supply went out, don't know why, but the only thing connected to it was the GO.  It was a work machine and was sent back under warranty.  I'm looking forward to getting a GO V2+ with an internal battery to deal with that.


----------



## Lohb

Is there a release date on the GO450/1000 V2 ?


----------



## greenkiwi

Aren't they available now? Doesn't the v2 has adjustable gain? 

I think that the infinity has three levels and the stock has two


----------



## jbr1971

greenkiwi said:


> Aren't they available now? Doesn't the v2 has adjustable gain?
> 
> I think that the infinity has three levels and the stock has two


 
  
 The GO V2 has adjustable power outputs, but no gain adjustments.
  
 Standard V2 has 100/1000 power outputs, Infinity adds the 450 output.
  
 Jody


----------



## AutumnCrown

Hello all.

 Just received my go 1000. 
  
 Haven't used it yet because it is presumably on the old firmware (serial # 21), and LH conveniently deleted their instructional video on how to update the firmware.
  
 Can anyone please tell me how to flash the firmware?
  
 Thanks!!


----------



## AutumnCrown

actually it says geekout hd audio 1v5. Does that mean it's 1.5 the latest firmware?


----------



## Roll

autumncrown said:


> actually it says geekout hd audio 1v5. Does that mean it's 1.5 the latest firmware?


 
 Yes,
  
 https://support.lhlabs.com/support/solutions/articles/5000564236-geek-out-setup-and-user-guide


----------



## AutumnCrown

Thanks for the info. How can I use the digital filters from Mac OS?


----------



## germay0653

autumncrown said:


> Thanks for the info. How can I use the digital filters from Mac OS?


 

 The filters are controlled by the hardware, the convex and concave buttons on the side, not the OS.  I don't remember which button controls which filter but try each of them and pick the one you like best.


----------



## AutumnCrown

germay0653 said:


> The filters are controlled by the hardware, the convex and concave buttons on the side, not the OS.  I don't remember which button controls which filter but try each of them and pick the one you like best.


 

 Is it possible to turn them off, or is one or the other always on?


----------



## greenkiwi

One is always on


----------



## germay0653

autumncrown said:


> Is it possible to turn them off, or is one or the other always on?


 

 As Greenkiwi states, one filter is always on.  The top button, closest to the USB plug, is for the TCM filter and the bottom button is for the FRM filter.


----------



## Kwangsun

germay0653 said:


> As Greenkiwi states, one filter is always on.  The top button, closest to the USB plug, is for the TCM filter and the bottom button is for the FRM filter.


 
 Honestly, I can't tell the filters apart. Lol. I suck.


----------



## teofilrocks

I sent a support ticket in to LH asking about the line-out voltage of the GO1000. Haven't heard back yet, so I might as well ask here.

Max output is around 4V, but I have an Audio-gd amp coming in and they recommend an input level of less than 3V. I believe the GO volume control is logarithmic not linear. So, if I wanted to set the output to 2 or 2.5V, I have no idea where that would be. Any way to know?

*Update:*
LH Labs replied to my ticket and said that setting volume to 50% should get me where I want. I was hoping for a little more detail, but I'll start with that.


----------



## donunus

Has anyone here compared software ver 2.23 and 2.29 for the go1000 or go450? Any bugs worth mentioning and do they sound the same? Also, how well does the auto setting on the buffer size work on 2.29


----------



## Kwangsun

Is the firmware available for download new? I think the GO have been running FW 1.5 for sometime now.


----------



## Audio Addict

donunus said:


> Has anyone here compared software ver 2.23 and 2.29 for the go1000 or go450? Any bugs worth mentioning and do they sound the same? Also, how well does the auto setting on the buffer size work on 2.29


 
  
  


kwangsun said:


> Is the firmware available for download new? I think the GO have been running FW 1.5 for sometime now.


 
  
 The v 2.29 is the Windows driver not the firmware.  I believe the most current firmware is 1.5.


----------



## Kwangsun

audio addict said:


> The v 2.29 is the Windows driver not the firmware.  I believe the most current firmware is 1.5.


 
 I wasn't talking about the windows driver. Coming from a 2.23 I know that the windows driver is new. But the FW that's been posted on the site was updated October 30, 2015 but appears to be a V1.5, same as the one that my GO shipped with half a year ago. Just wanted to ask to make sure. I can't seem to upgrade my FW anyway by the looks of it. I guess the V1.5 is still current.


----------



## donunus

I was referring to the software 2.29


----------



## Kwangsun

Nevermind. Again, the question. The currently available V1.5 FW available on the LHLabs website. Is this the same as the one that our GO shipped out with earlier this year or is it actually new? I know that they've posted it up recently but it doesn't look like a new FW. 
  
 I can't update my FW using the downloaded file so I'm going to assume that it's not new and that my GO, purchased sometime June is still running the latest FW. 
  
 This is not a Windows driver question. Just wanna make that abundantly clear.


----------



## Kwangsun

donunus, 
  
 Looks like you thought I responded to your query and tried to correct me. Bro, I was posting my own question regarding the FW. So we aren't talking about the same thing. You want to know more about the Windows driver, and I want to know more about the FW.


----------



## Kwangsun

audio addict said:


> The v 2.29 is the Windows driver not the firmware.  I believe the most current firmware is 1.5.


 
 donunus wanted to know about the windows driver. I just want to know if the current version of the FW posted on the LHLABS site is actually different from the one on my GO1000 or not. My GO1000 shipped with version 1.5 as well. I got mine 5-6 months ago.


----------



## Audio Addict

kwangsun said:


> donunus wanted to know about the windows driver. I just want to know if the current version of the FW posted on the LHLABS site is actually different from the one on my GO1000 or not. My GO1000 shipped with version 1.5 as well. I got mine 5-6 months ago.




I just received a Pulse Infinity within the last month and it was FW 1.5 too.


----------



## jbr1971

kwangsun said:


> Nevermind. Again, the question. The currently available V1.5 FW available on the LHLabs website. Is this the same as the one that our GO shipped out with earlier this year or is it actually new? I know that they've posted it up recently but it doesn't look like a new FW.
> 
> I can't update my FW using the downloaded file so I'm going to assume that it's not new and that my GO, purchased sometime June is still running the latest FW.
> 
> This is not a Windows driver question. Just wanna make that abundantly clear.


 
  
 Geek Out (100/450/720/1000) firmware 1V5 is still the most current.
  
 Jody


----------



## jbr1971

audio addict said:


> I just received a Pulse Infinity within the last month and it was FW 1.5 too.


 
  
 The Geek Out and Pulse firmwares are different from each other. It is just coincidence they are both at 1V5 currently.
  
 Jody


----------



## donunus

kwangsun said:


> donunus,
> 
> Looks like you thought I responded to your query and tried to correct me. Bro, I was posting my own question regarding the FW. So we aren't talking about the same thing. You want to know more about the Windows driver, and I want to know more about the FW.



I was replying to audio addict since he quoted me and only replied to your question


----------



## donunus

I am still waiting for any thoughts regarding the difference between 2.23 and 2.29 for the go1000 for sound quality and bugs etc... So far I have noticed 2.29 to respond differently when upsampling. Could be placebo but it seems that upsampling makes more of a difference now vs the 2.23 software.


----------



## Kwangsun

jbr1971 said:


> Geek Out (100/450/720/1000) firmware 1V5 is still the most current.
> 
> Jody


 
 Thank you


----------



## Kwangsun

donunus said:


> I am still waiting for any thoughts regarding the difference between 2.23 and 2.29 for the go1000 for sound quality and bugs etc... So far I have noticed 2.29 to respond differently when upsampling. Could be placebo but it seems that upsampling makes more of a difference now vs the 2.23 software.


 
 There weren't really any serious bugs on the 2.23 so I can't comment on that. The driver seems to work well not sure about the changes in SQ either since I don't use my GO1000 very often. Since this isn't as permanent as a FW upgrade, why not just try the 2.29 and decide for yourself? If you don't like it you can always go back. As far as I can tell, 2.29 is probably an improvement in other ways if not strictly SQ. 
  
 Sorry about the confusion earlier.


----------



## donunus

Yes I did try it and besides the auto function in the buffer samples, they seem to be the same. Sonically I feel that when upsampling using the new software, the difference in sound quality becomes more dramatic. It could just be due to the specific tracks I am trying it with which is why I am also curious as to how others feel about this. Its not easy to do a comparison between both since they cant be installed side by side for an AB comparison.


----------



## donunus

Nevermind... Think it was Placebo or I was just in a different mood. Sound seems to be the same with 2.29 and 2.23 but 2.29 was buggy. It made Jriver crash and the lights on the GO1000 would go haywire.


----------



## Kwangsun

I still use Foobar. No problem here.


----------



## donunus

I cant seem to find the difference between the LH control panel buffer settings anywhere. What is the difference between safe, reliable, minimum latency, low latency etc... any specific info on this anywhere?


----------



## HIPNHOP

does any one know where i can download the geek out 1000 v1 firmware?
 i just upgrade it to v1.5 and didnt like it as much as V1
  
 any help with link will be great, i've been searching the whole site and could not find anything besides v1.5 firmware


----------



## namaiki

Possibly here. What are the differences that you are finding with the different firmwares?


----------



## doctorjazz

I have a Geek Out Special Edition (V1), really like the sound, often find it puzzling in terms of functionality. I use it with JRiver 21 (or Ponoplayer 20, a spin off), could never get the darn thing set up so that I could bypass it and listen to speakers. Off and on, it has a problem if it is disconnected, or has to read a file it doesn't like. I get an error message that it can't play the file, fine. After that, though, it continues to give me the same error for any music-it stops working for anything. I try closing JRiver and reopening, generally doesn't help. Sometimes it helps to reboot the computer, which is a pain, but last night even after a reboot, I got the same error. I have it selected to LH Labs ASCII, I believe (not home right now). It seems to me I lost some options for LH labs device selection, ASCII is the only one there. Any suggestions?


----------



## germay0653

doctorjazz said:


> I have a Geek Out Special Edition (V1), really like the sound, often find it puzzling in terms of functionality. I use it with JRiver 21 (or Ponoplayer 20, a spin off), could never get the darn thing set up so that I could bypass it and listen to speakers. Off and on, it has a problem if it is disconnected, or has to read a file it doesn't like. I get an error message that it can't play the file, fine. After that, though, it continues to give me the same error for any music-it stops working for anything. I try closing JRiver and reopening, generally doesn't help. Sometimes it helps to reboot the computer, which is a pain, but last night even after a reboot, I got the same error. I have it selected to LH Labs ASCII, I believe (not home right now). It seems to me I lost some options for LH labs device selection, ASCII is the only one there. Any suggestions?


 

 Did you mean ASIO? ASCII, American Standard Code for Information Interchange, is a numerical representation of a character set.


----------



## doctorjazz

Plead brain lock, yes, ASIO. Sorry...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

JRiver config?
  
 This is usually the case if i don't configure my JRiver Properly...
  
 Usual faults:
  
 1. Bitstreaming not checked (DSD)
 2. Misconfigure on output encoding (Mine I set to 2xDSD in DoP, assuming i have checked bitstreaming - above)


----------



## doctorjazz

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> JRiver config?
> 
> This is usually the case if i don't configure my JRiver Properly...
> 
> ...




Thanks so much, I'll check that when I get home tonight.


----------



## doctorjazz

Well, tried those settings, no success, still no sound out of the Geek Out (can't figure out how to get any sound out of the PC at this point, tried the Microsoft sound tool, didn't help, getting a bit crazy about this...)

May have to pay Kaspersky for their PC rescue, or go to the Geek Squad or something like that with the PC, don't know what else to do...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Sorry Doc, let me help you better..
  
 I assume you have Windoze?
  
 1. Is/Are the led lights on GO on or off?
 IF NOT: Remove and reinsert to establish power/handshake. Or Change USB port.
  
 Possible causes: Problem with USB port, could not establish power/handshake
  
 2. Go to windows control panel. Under Sound, check if its the default device. Check it as default if not.
 Sometimes I don't hear GO becuase the system has changed its default.
  
 Go to its properties -> advanced tab and test for sound.
  
 If no Geek Out -> hardware problem maybe GO, maybe USB, maybe PC.
  
 If there is Geek Out but no sound -> initializing problems to GO
  
 If there is Geek Out w/ sound -> media player config problem.  
  
 IF NO SOUND: Do n.1, or change USB port, or restart computer, if not reinstall driver.


----------



## doctorjazz

Thanks again, so much, heading for work, that's my project for tonight. Use Windows 7 Ultimate, think there is something rotten going on in the system. May have a computer geek friend of my high school daughter try to fix it, or maybe Kaspersky's computer fixing service is worth subscribing to. Tried System Restore, slightly better but still don't think it's right. But, maybe I've just done badly by songs and drivers. Thanks again! Report back tonight.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Got Win 7 Ult x64 too...
  
 let me here the outcome...


----------



## doctorjazz

I'm wondering if the constant reminders to upgrade to Windows 10 (FOR FREE!!!  ) have anything to do with my problems. I accidentally clicked to go ahead once, but it didn't upgrade, stopped in the middle for some reason or other, but the reminders keep coming. Any way to get rid of these? Annoying, at the very least...


----------



## teofilrocks

doctorjazz said:


> I'm wondering if the constant reminders to upgrade to Windows 10 (FOR FREE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 The Windows 10 upgrade reminder comes from unknowingly installing a recommended Windows update. A sneaky move by Microsoft, if you ask me. You can uninstall that update using these instructions below. The update number is KB3035583. Make sure to select the correct one.
  
 http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/remove-update#1TC=windows-7


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, so the lights are on on the GO
Went to Control/sound, don't see the LH labs Geek Out there, only the Realtek High Definition is listed (I foolishly deleted these from the list, causing me to do yet another System Restore, and they're back, whew). Now what?



m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> Sorry Doc, let me help you better..
> 
> I assume you have Windoze?
> 
> ...


----------



## jbr1971

doctorjazz said:


> OK, so the lights are on on the GO
> Went to Control/sound, don't see the LH labs Geek Out there, only the Realtek High Definition is listed (I foolishly deleted these from the list, causing me to do yet another System Restore, and they're back, whew). Now what?


 
  
 What version of the LH audio driver do you have installed? If it is not 3.26, try installing it, rebooting the computer, and re-connecting the GO.
  
 Hopefully that will reset all of the connections between the OS and the GO.
  
  
 If you are connecting through a USB hub, try connecting it directly to the USB port on the computer.
  
 Also, try different USB ports on the computer as there could be a hardware issue with the current port if Windows is not recognizing the GO, even though the lights are on.
  
 Jody


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

What Jody had said


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, this is a bit of Windows For Dummies...how do I find the version of the driver? And, if I do need to reinstall, And, when I search for Geek Out Drivers, I see them listed at the LH Labs site for V2, but not for V1 (I have the Special Edition V1). Thanks to you both again.
Jack


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I'm mobile, tried to paste the link it gave me garbage... Anyway posted few pages back on the Pulse thread.

Edit: 
Foundit!
http://lhlabs.com/downloads/Drivers/LightHarmonic_DriverSetup_v3.26.0.exe


----------



## doctorjazz

Think I had version 2.23. Going to install now. (could've waited until tonight, thanks again!)


----------



## doctorjazz

So far, so good, installation looks OK...unfortunately, work is getting in the way, no time to listen and see if things are better until late tonight (looong day at the office, looks like). Report back later, thanks again.


----------



## doctorjazz

Ok, got home late, watched a bit of the Wiz (fun), then plugged in headphones to Geek Out to see if things went well. First, the good news: the New drivers installed, the PC recognizes GO, and I get music. Now, the bad news. I have both JRiver21 and Ponoplayer20 (which is a stripped down version of JRiver, only music, geared towards the Pono. They work almost the same for music, JRiver has much more functionality), and settings are identical. Ponoplayer works just fine; playback is with no hitch. JRIVER, on the other hand, plays back with that stuttering sound some have described, almost like the beating you heard in science labs when frequencies cancel and reinforce each other. I think they are set up the same in settings. Any ideas? Thanks again for the help to this point.


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

I experience normally the stuttering sound when I forgot to check the Bitstreaming to YES (DSD). Especially on DSD128 and up. When not ticked (Bitstreaming) JRiver converts DSD to PCM. As in the case of DSD128, at 706/768 khz, that our GO could not support there by the stuttering sound.  
  
 You could use my JRiver settings.
  
 For  Audio Device I usually prefer Kernel Streaming:
  
 KS Audio Device and Device settings

  
 If you perfer ASIO, these are my settings:
  

  
  
 And I like to upsample all my output to DSD (PCM that is).
 If you like to upsample, under DSP and Output settings it should be like this:
  

  
 If you want to leave the bit rates as is.
  

  
 Notice the input bitrate should correspond to output?
  
 If you want to upsample the PCM only, you could change ALL the values to 384000 (highest bitrate of GO)


----------



## doctorjazz

OK, work calls again, try these tonight. M-I-K-E-Y, you're a prince!


----------



## doctorjazz

Thanks again, M-I-K-E-Y, went with the Kernal Streaming settings, (tried the ASIO fist but was more or less what I already had and the beating continued), just started up Beck's Morning, sounding good. Have to save this page in case the settings get messed up again (I'll forget). sounding really nice!


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

Glad to be of help Bro!


----------



## jeesgalaxy

I just ordered the GO 1000, however, should I return and upgrade to the v2? I know that YMMV, but is that 100 bucks well worth it? Should I just wait for the V2 to drop in price just as the GO 1000 did? Also, I will be traveling a lot so can the v2 plastic handle some drops? The aluminum casing on the GO1000 seems very good.


----------



## greenkiwi

I'd return it in a second and get the v2


----------



## Kwangsun

jeesgalaxy said:


> I just ordered the GO 1000, however, should I return and upgrade to the v2? I know that YMMV, but is that 100 bucks well worth it? Should I just wait for the V2 to drop in price just as the GO 1000 did? Also, I will be traveling a lot so can the v2 plastic handle some drops? The aluminum casing on the GO1000 seems very good.


 
 I have the GO1000. Yeah, I'd return it to get the GOV2. The GOV2 is a significant upgrade over the GO1K. Not that the GO1K is bad by any means. It's a great dac/amp. But the GOV2 is worth the 100 extra.


----------



## Kwangsun

also, I think that it's funny that I have to wrap my GO1K with the pouch to conserve heat while in use because the wintertime ambient temp is sapping the heat right off the GO1K. LOL.


----------



## ChookJones1987

Can you Bypass the amp or use as a dac only with my tube amps?


----------



## cuiter23

chookjones1987 said:


> Can you Bypass the amp or use as a dac only with my tube amps?


 
  
 No, there is no line-out on the GO.


----------



## doctorjazz

I thought you could set fixed volume in JRiver and use it as line out...


----------



## m-i-c-k-e-y

cuiter23 said:


> No, there is no line-out on the GO.


 
  
 Not true I believe...
  
 There are two 3.5mm jacks, one intended for IEMs (0.47 Ohm) and one for Line - Out and Larger Cans (47 Ohm)
  
 See these for references:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/gavn8r/geek-a-new-usb-awesomifier-for-headphones/description
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lBMMP7mtO4sC0HnxTo-_0crmsaTLVUkqBizSmINeuMs/edit#gid=0


----------



## jbr1971

cuiter23 said:


> No, there is no line-out on the GO.


 
  
 Incorrect. The 47 Ohm output is used for line-out connections to amps/active speakers as well as larger cans.


----------



## cuiter23

I stand corrected then. I never used the LO function personally.


----------



## doctorjazz

I use it line out to external amps, avoid the volume issues with Windows/GO that way (and sounds really great using LC or ZOTL).


----------



## ChookJones1987

That's good to know! I'm looking to sale my Mojo as for the price the DAC isn't up-to-par. 
  
 Are the GO1000's reliable in terms of longevity?


----------



## CEE TEE

Yes, use a 3.5mm to RCA adapter like this one from the 47 ohm output.


----------



## doctorjazz

chookjones1987 said:


> That's good to know! I'm looking to sale my Mojo as for the price the DAC isn't up-to-par.
> 
> Are the GO1000's reliable in terms of longevity?




Interesting, the Mojo is FOTM, better than Mother's milk! I did hear it paired with sine A&K as a transport at a meet last week, thought the pair was pretty good sounding. Do have my GO Special Edition for a while now, no problems with it (have an extra GO 1K, not used since I got the SE, might be willing to part with it...)


----------



## rlawli

chookjones1987 said:


> Are the GO1000's reliable in terms of longevity?


 
  
 I've had one from the beginning (2 years) and no problems at all. If it's in your budget, however, I'd recommend the GO V2 ($250 new) for its flexibility: both 100 and 1000 mw power as well as single-ended and balanced outputs.


----------



## Stuff Jones

chookjones1987 said:


> That's good to know! I'm looking to sale my Mojo as for the price the DAC isn't up-to-par.
> 
> Are the GO1000's reliable in terms of longevity?


 
  
 Had my go450 for a year without a problem.


----------



## doctorjazz

Have the GO Special Edition (an upgraded 1K) since the first ones shipped, no major problems, but has some of the annoyance issues noted previously in this thread (volume tends to reset to max...I mostly use it line out with an external amp, MicroZOTL2, both to avoid this, and because it sounds better), and very sensitive to loose PC connection (typically, change headphones, get slight tug and the GO looses the connection, have to sometimes reboot to regain connection). Again, the external amp eliminates this. Think it sounds great as a dac!


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## Audio Addict

mikeyfresh said:


> I was a relatively early Kickstarter backer, I've had the GO1000 for close to 2 years now, never any problems with it.
> 
> As another post mentioned, the V2 definitely has some additional functionality in terms of both 100 and 1000mW outputs, and balanced outputs, should you want or need that.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Your GO 1000 sounds like your rolled a lucky 7 but the picture shows snake eyes?  I would  put the snake  eyes facing the GO1000 to provide the best contact service with it for maximum heat transfer.  :
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Sorry, I could help myself but I agree 100% the aluminum case of the original GO far exceeds the 3D plastic case of the v2.


----------



## MikeyFresh

audio addict said:


> Your GO 1000 sounds like your rolled a lucky 7 but the picture shows snake eyes?  I would  put the snake  eyes facing the GO1000 to provide the best contact service with it for maximum heat transfer.  :
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 I actually thought about switching it up for the picture.
  
 But believe it or not that is exactly as I had it in my system, snake eyes, and it did not adversely affect the performance or reliability!
  
 Yes, far prefer the aluminum case, both aesthetically and functionally as a heat sink.


----------



## stuck limo

stuff jones said:


> Had my go450 for a year without a problem.


 
  
 I got my Geek Out 450 used about a year or two after it came out (not sure on exact date it came out), used the 450 for up to 9 hours 5 days a week for about a year or so, with no issues. The thing is still going. I got the V2 in December, it died today, less than 2 months in.


----------



## doctorjazz

Haven't felt the need for the extra heat transfer, though I'm sure it can't hurt, have Regen directly plugged into GO SE (G2 LH USB cable from PC), line out into MicroZOTL2, great sounding set up imo.


----------



## stuck limo

Does anyone have a link or file for the Geek Out 450 drivers? It appears LH Labs took them down from the site.


----------



## Roll

stuck limo said:


> Does anyone have a link or file for the Geek Out 450 drivers? It appears LH Labs took them down from the site.


 
 https://support.lhlabs.com/support/solutions/articles/5000633039-light-harmonic-driver-and-firmware-files


----------



## Liber T

Hi, does anyone here use their GO 750 or 1000 with Beyer DT990s (250 ohms)?
I am currently using a fiio A3 amp with my Note 3 and macbook pro but want to upgrade to a DAC amp. The LH Labs GO V2 infinity looks exciting but expensive compared the V1, which I can get for 89 GBP (750) or 99 GBP (1000). Would the 750 be sufficient/good for driving the DT990s?


----------



## Roll

liber t said:


> Hi, does anyone here use their GO 750 or 1000 with Beyer DT990s (250 ohms)?
> I am currently using a fiio A3 amp with my Note 3 and macbook pro but want to upgrade to a DAC amp. The LH Labs GO V2 infinity looks exciting but expensive compared the V1, which I can get for 89 GBP (750) or 99 GBP (1000). Would the 750 be sufficient/good for driving the DT990s?


 
 Yes, the GO 720 version will drive the DT 990 Premium 250 Ohm which I have. Currently using my Beyerdynamic T90 and HiFiMAN HE-400 on the Go 720 - no problem at all


----------



## Larry Ho

roll said:


> Yes, the GO 720 version will drive the DT 990 Premium 250 Ohm which I have. Currently using my Beyerdynamic T90 and HiFiMAN HE-400 on the Go 720 - no problem at all


 

 Both GO 720 and GO1000 will drive these headphones quite well...


----------



## Liber T

roll said:


> Yes, the GO 720 version will drive the DT 990 Premium 250 Ohm which I have. Currently using my Beyerdynamic T90 and HiFiMAN HE-400 on the Go 720 - no problem at all


Thanks very much. I was going to get the GO 720 but then i saw a Fiio e9 and e07k for a total of £85 on eBay and couldn't resist. Not sure whether it was the right decision but it seemed like a bargain too good to miss.


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## Larry Ho

liber t said:


> Thanks very much. I was going to get the GO 720 but then i saw a Fiio e9 and e07k for a total of £85 on eBay and couldn't resist. Not sure whether it was the right decision but it seemed like a bargain too good to miss.


 

 Welcome to this fantastic music world.


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## Kwangsun

liber t said:


> Thanks very much. I was going to get the GO 720 but then i saw a Fiio e9 and e07k for a total of £85 on eBay and couldn't resist. Not sure whether it was the right decision but it seemed like a bargain too good to miss.


 
 Congrats on the new setup. It's a fine starter setup. I have the E9/E17 combo but I personally think that the GO1K I have beats the combo by a fairly large margin. The Fiio setup however is much more versatile and friendly to use.


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## glassmonkey

cuiter23 said:


> chookjones1987 said:
> 
> 
> > Can you Bypass the amp or use as a dac only with my tube amps?
> ...


 
 There is no fixed voltage lineout mode. The Geek Outs all are volume adjusted by the computer. You can use any output as a line-out, it doesn't mean that it is a true line-out (i.e. fixed voltage). To get as close to a true lineout as possible you have to max out the volume. Personally, I found that no matter what I'm driving the lower impedance out sounds better. Use what you will.
  
 I think they designed the Geek Outs to have max volume when hooked to anything that is not a computer (originally even a computer hence the early ear shattering/speaker destroying complaints), which functionally is similar to line out.


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## germay0653

glassmonkey said:


> There is no fixed voltage lineout mode. The Geek Outs all are volume adjusted by the computer. You can use any output as a line-out, it doesn't mean that it is a true line-out (i.e. fixed voltage). To get as close to a true lineout as possible you have to max out the volume. Personally, I found that no matter what I'm driving the lower impedance out sounds better. Use what you will.
> 
> I think they designed the Geek Outs to have max volume when hooked to anything that is not a computer (originally even a computer hence the early ear shattering/speaker destroying complaints), which functionally is similar to line out.


 
  
 The GO will provide a fixed voltage signal to downstream equipment but requires the volume to be set at max.  LH recommends using the higher impedance, 47 ohms, output.  You would need to feed that fixed voltage line level signal to a preamp, a receiver with preamp inputs or a passive volume control to manage volume to downstream power amplification.


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## doctorjazz

JRiver has a fixed volume output, I believe. I use it into an amp, seems to work fine.


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## Stuff Jones

Am I imagining things or is driver 3.26 a downgrade SQ wise? Smoother but less detailed and dynamic? Just got a new computer and had to reinstall.


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## glassmonkey

stuff jones said:


> Am I imagining things or is driver 3.26 a downgrade SQ wise? Smoother but less detailed and dynamic? Just got a new computer and had to reinstall.


I've not noticed a difference between 2.23, 2.29 and 3.26. It is also excessively difficult to do a matched comparison given the time lag between installations, so any observations should be taken with a grain of salt.


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## m-i-c-k-e-y

stuff jones said:


> Am I imagining things or is driver 3.26 a downgrade SQ wise? Smoother but less detailed and dynamic? Just got a new computer and had to reinstall.


 
  
 Yes, agree on it. IMO its teeny weeny softer, lesser grit / dynamics. But its more stable too. 
  
 So more music, or less teeny weeny bit a better music? Had opted the former.


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## Stuff Jones

Open the cover of my new windows 10 laptop with the headphones plugged into the geekout and it came on at full blast. Scary and I hope I didn't suffer any long term damage.

This seems like the kind of oversight by LH that could elicit a lawsuit.

In fact, 24 hours later, they still hurt.


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## doctorjazz

One of the reasons I generally use it line or into an amp (makes it less portable, though).


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## jbr1971

stuff jones said:


> Open the cover of my new windows 10 laptop with the headphones plugged into the geekout and it came on at full blast. Scary and I hope I didn't suffer any long term damage.
> 
> This seems like the kind of oversight by LH that could elicit a lawsuit.
> 
> In fact, 24 hours later, they still hurt.


 
  
 If I remember right 100% is the default for any newly connected USB audio device that does not have volume controls on Windows.
  
 The Geek Out has no say in the matter.


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## Stuff Jones

jbr1971 said:


> If I remember right 100% is the default for any newly connected USB audio device that does not have volume controls on Windows.
> 
> The Geek Out has no say in the matter.


 
  
 This wasn't my first time using it, just my first time starting it up from standby (or hibernate?) with iems in.


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## jbr1971

stuff jones said:


> This wasn't my first time using it, just my first time starting it up from standby (or hibernate?) with iems in.


 
  
 When bringing Windows out of hibernate, I think it has to re-establish/reset the USB connections, which puts all of the settings back to default.


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## cuiter23

jbr1971 said:


> When bringing Windows out of hibernate, I think it has to re-establish/reset the USB connections, which puts all of the settings back to default.


 
  
 This is what happened to me on multiple occasions. Which is why I sold it and don't recommend anyone to buy it.


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## doctorjazz

Think the DAC on my Geek Out Special Edition (souped up GO 1K) is great...use it line out into MicroZOTL2 or Liquid Carbon, makes a great computer system. Hated using it straight out of the computer without an amp for the same reasons (also sounds better with the external amps).


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## jbr1971

cuiter23 said:


> This is what happened to me on multiple occasions. Which is why I sold it and don't recommend anyone to buy it.


 
  
 Good call, I would get rid of Windows too if I hadn't switched to Mac years ago.


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## doctorjazz

So, it happened again. Hasn't happened in a long time. Something got unset in settings, I can't find what, and now all the music sounds distorted, like a rebirth played with a big ball of dust stuck to the stylus. Using PC/LH labs 2g UPS cable, Geek Out Special Edition. Can't find what settings have changed themselves. Any ideas?


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## jbr1971

doctorjazz said:


> So, it happened again. Hasn't happened in a long time. Something got unset in settings, I can't find what, and now all the music sounds distorted, like a rebirth played with a big ball of dust stuck to the stylus. Using PC/LH labs 2g UPS cable, Geek Out Special Edition. Can't find what settings have changed themselves. Any ideas?


 
  
 Maybe something changed in your player settings?
  
 If all else fails, try uninstalling the driver, rebooting the computer, & re-installing the driver. That should reset everything.


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## doctorjazz

Thanks for replying, I rebooted a few times, didn't help, then disconnected and reconnected the Geek Out and it was fine.don't get out, but that's what happened. Life in the digital age...I like discs.


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## germay0653

doctorjazz said:


> Thanks for replying, I rebooted a few times, didn't help, then disconnected and reconnected the Geek Out and it was fine.don't get out, but that's what happened. Life in the digital age...I like discs.


 

 Check the cable to connector solder joints in your entire signal path.  You may have a bad solder joint that only shows up occasionally.


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## doctorjazz

germay0653 said:


> doctorjazz said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for replying, I rebooted a few times, didn't help, then disconnected and reconnected the Geek Out and it was fine.don't get out, but that's what happened. Life in the digital age...I like discs.
> ...




Ok, use LH labs 2G usb/Regen/Geek out special Edition. It looked like disconnecting and reconnecting the GO from the Regen was what solved it. I connect it directly, no cable.


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## germay0653

doctorjazz said:


> Ok, use LH labs 2G usb/Regen/Geek out special Edition. It looked like disconnecting and reconnecting the GO from the Regen was what solved it. I connect it directly, no cable.


 

 Great that you have it resolved.  One of the connections (surface to surface) was probably not tight or micro-arcing causing the distortion.


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## fireangel

Hi,
  
 I have a geek out 1000. I have a problem with it. How to set the correct Tcm filter?? I found that the online support manual says:
  
 The top 2 LEDs (out of the 3 on top) will light up when TCM is engaged
 https://support.lhlabs.com/support/solutions/articles/5000564236-geek-out-owner-s-manual-
  
  
 and the pdf manual and the most common idea says:
  
 To turn on TCM, click on the convex side button. You’ll know it’s on when you see three LED’s illuminated at the same time.
 http://lhlabs.com/downloads/Geek_Out_User_Manual_Version_2015_02_13.pdf
  
  
 What is the real button/led response?
  
 Thanks a lot!


----------



## namaiki

Well, if you need TCM just plug it in and don't press any of the buttons. It is my understanding that the Geek Out doesn't store which mode to use when you plug it in and it defaults to TCM.


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## greenkiwi

stuff jones said:


> Open the cover of my new windows 10 laptop with the headphones plugged into the geekout and it came on at full blast. Scary and I hope I didn't suffer any long term damage.
> 
> This seems like the kind of oversight by LH that could elicit a lawsuit.
> 
> In fact, 24 hours later, they still hurt.


 
 This sort of thing has happened enough that my GO1000 went in the drawer and has never come back out.  What a really poor software design.  You know, at least they could default to -∞ for volume rather than -0.


----------



## donunus

never had a problem with that issue with the latest firmware


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## doctorjazz

I really like the Geek Out Special Edition, but the volume issue was also crazy making, generally just use it with an external amp (which makes it less portable, of course, but I use it with my PC all the time).


----------



## mtruong34

Same here. Even with updated FW, the volume issue on my GO450 still reared its ugly head on occasion. Too scared to use it or give it away so it's basically trash.


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## fireangel

namaiki said:


> Well, if you need TCM just plug it in and don't press any of the buttons. It is my understanding that the Geek Out doesn't store which mode to use when you plug it in and it defaults to TCM.


 

 Thanks namaiki,
  
 But tcm is convex button / 3 leds or concave/ 2 leds ?? I say this because i prefer convex filter mode and i don't know if is one or the another one!
  
 Thanks a lot


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## mikemercer

mtruong34 said:


> Same here. Even with updated FW, the volume issue on my GO450 still reared its ugly head on occasion. Too scared to use it or give it away so it's basically trash.


 
 and I noticed Gavin Fish left Light Harmonic.
  
 Sorry guys.
  
 I couldn't know these guys would pull this BS!!


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## doctorjazz

I pretty much use it line out, into an amp, avoid the volume problems, DAC is very good sounding (have the GO Special Edition). But, yes, the volume issue is bad. 



mtruong34 said:


> Same here. Even with updated FW, the volume issue on my GO450 still reared its ugly head on occasion. Too scared to use it or give it away so it's basically trash.


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## Decommo

Hello... May I check with someone who has GO1000 if below is normal?
  
 I just got GO1000 (red) with v1.5 firmware update and noticed below weirdness.
  
1) 0.47ohm and 47ohm output power. 
I hear slightly louder on 0.47 ohm than 47 ohm connected with headphone. The difference is not huge but definitely 0.47 ohm connected with headphone is louder a bit. Isn't it supposed to be opposite?
 
2) Amp Output Power
With GO1000, the volume output is marginally higher (about 10~15%) comparing without. My source is primarily Macbook Air 2015. Isn't GO1000 1 watt class A amp and it should have plenty of power to drive and noticeable difference on output power comparing without amp? I had to go up 70% of volume with ER4S to match 80~85% volume without amp.
  
 Thank you....


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## glassmonkey

decommo said:


> Hello... May I check with someone who has GO1000 if below is normal?
> 
> I just got GO1000 (red) with v1.5 firmware update and noticed below weirdness.
> 
> ...


 
 1. The 0.47 will always be louder because it has less resistance
 2. The ER4S has very high impedance, which means it is hard to drive. The GO 1000 is rated for 1000mW into 16 ohms, which is a bit cheeky as most power ratings are into 32 ohms. I'm not surprised that it took 70%. The MEE Pinnacle P1, has 50 ohm resistance and takes about 50% volume with my Geek Outs.
  
 Enjoy your GO 1000, it's a good little unit.


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## Decommo

glassmonkey said:


> decommo said:
> 
> 
> > Hello... May I check with someone who has GO1000 if below is normal?
> ...


 
  
 Thank you so much for your detailed response. I was surprised because GO1000 is class A full 1W amp so it should be enough to drive even 600ohm headphones such as DT990. I think that this unit may struggle to drive headphone with 300ohm or more... 
  
 Besides, I like the sound out of this unit. It is cleaner and slightly warmer than stock Macbook air that pair with my MSR7.


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## m-i-c-k-e-y

I have an HD600 and it sings with the GO1000


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## Decommo

m-i-c-k-e-y said:


> I have an HD600 and it sings with the GO1000


 
 What volume level out of 100 do you go to with HD600 (300ohm)? I just tested with Yuin G1 which is 150ohm and I had to go to 78% of volume which is not too loud but loud enough and listen comfortably.


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## m-i-c-k-e-y

I'll based it on the LH Control Panel Output Volume slider: mine is between -20 to -15.
  
 System volume on my PC don't reflect the exact volume.


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## takato14

Anyone have the max output voltage (p - p) on this?


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## kroem

(sorry if it's already posted, but...)
  
 Anyone used GO450 with iphone 7? Can it run directly with the CCK?


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## doctorjazz

I was under the impression that you needed a Y style cable to also connect some power source like a battery, the iPhone alone wouldn't power the GO. 



kroem said:


> (sorry if it's already posted, but...)
> 
> Anyone used GO450 with iphone 7? Can it run directly with the CCK?


----------



## MikeyFresh

doctorjazz said:


> I was under the impression that you needed a Y style cable to also connect some power source like a battery, the iPhone alone wouldn't power the GO.


 

 That's correct Doc, the GO450 draws too much juice.
  
 The iPhone's firmware prevents it from giving up any more than 99mA from it's own battery to power an external device. The GO450 needs much more than that, so in addition to the CCK you also need a y-split USB cable and an external 5v power source, typically a battery but it can also be an AC powered plug-in type power source if the intended use case isn't a mobile one.
  
 A battery is quieter/better, excepting maybe the iFi iPower 5v, or any good quality 5v LPS.


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## kroem

doctorjazz said:


> I was under the impression that you needed a Y style cable to also connect some power source like a battery, the iPhone alone wouldn't power the GO.


 
  
  


mikeyfresh said:


> That's correct Doc, the GO450 draws too much juice.
> 
> The iPhone's firmware prevents it from giving up any more than 99mA from it's own battery to power an external device. The GO450 needs much more than that, so in addition to the CCK you also need a y-split USB cable and an external 5v power source, typically a battery but it can also be an AC powered plug-in type power source if the intended use case isn't a mobile one.
> 
> A battery is quieter/better, excepting maybe the iFi iPower 5v, or any good quality 5v LPS.


 
  
 Ah damn... it's just going to be too bulky. There's always a compromise. 
  
 Would've been pretty smart by LH to offer one version that will work straight out of the lightning jack.


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## doctorjazz

Isn't that what the V2+ is?

[COLOR=FF00AA]Ah damn... it's just going to be too bulky. There's always a compromise. 

Would've been pretty smart by LH to offer one version that will work straight out of the lightning jack. 
[/quote][/COLOR]


----------



## kroem

doctorjazz said:


> Isn't that what the V2+ is?
> 
> Ah damn... it's just going to be too bulky. There's always a compromise.
> 
> Would've been pretty smart by LH to offer one version that will work straight out of the lightning jack.


[/quote]

 Oh, ok so V2+ does work out of the Lightning jack? 
  
 (The question really would be, which of the GO do ... ?)


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## doctorjazz

It should (it has its own rechargeable battery, doesn't need to draw power from the phone). At least, that's what I think. I have the V1 Signature Edition...


----------



## dakanao

What do the x2, x4 and x8 signs mean?


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## glassmonkey

dakanao said:


> What do the x2, x4 and x8 signs mean?


 
 Base rate is PCM 44.1 or 48. These are multiples indicating higher resolution audio. For DSD base rate is 64 times 44.1, so double DSD is DSD128.


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## CEE TEE

Yes, at the moment- only the GO V2+ (Regular, Infinity, Special Edition) versions with batteries work directly out of the lightning port.  They supply their own power to the DAC and Amp sections, so they don't draw power out of the iPhone and trigger a notification.


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## Jimster480

It seems as if this EM1000 isn't even sold anymore.


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## KrusherSHPX

Did anyone compare the geek out 1000 with the dragonfly red ? I didn't find anything in this thread. I currently have the dfr but the geek out is the exact same price and I still have time to send back the dfr so... a comparison between these two would really help


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## stuck limo

krushershpx said:


> Did anyone compare the geek out 1000 with the dragonfly red ? I didn't find anything in this thread. I currently have the dfr but the geek out is the exact same price and I still have time to send back the dfr so... a comparison between these two would really help


 
  
 I tested the Black vs the 450. The 450 and 1000 are fairly similar. The 450 came out ahead of the Black. I'm going to guess the 1000 will have better body, tonality and engagement factor. I'm going to guess the Red will have better soundstage and detail retrieval (by a little bit).


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## NinjaHamster

Are LH Labs still solvent? I have opened a couple of support tickets about a Pulse I have owed to me and getting gift certificates consolidated however there has been no response in ages ...


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## Jimster480

Well from reading most of the reviews on amazon it seems like they have 0 customer service and they haven't made much in the way of new products. 

https://lhlabs.com/products/vi-dac/
This has been on their site for 6+ months now with no other announcements and all the other DAC's like what you are talking about have been dropped.


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## m-i-c-k-e-y

if you post your problem here (if its technical) some might give a help.


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## dakanao

Is it possible to connect the Geek Out 450 to the Turtle Beach DSS, and improve the Dolby Headphone sound that way?


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## Degru (Jan 30, 2018)

What is the recommended setup for using as a line output? I'm wary of the volume control problems and would rather just use it with my Fiio A5. However, 4V max output is quite a bit higher than any kind of line level standard, so what would the best course of action be in this case? My 2.1V Dragonfly Red already gets a little less control range on the amp than I would like at low gain driving HD600s... leave the GO1k volume at 50%? But then that goes right back to random volume jumps killing my ears and/or amp.


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## doctorjazz

I'm getting an error message using JRiver25. I'm using Geek Out 1k SE, and just upgraded JRiver to the current version. It tells me it can't open the music files using ASIO using 44.1. and I should open the DSP Studio to change the settings. I can't find any settings in there that help.
I have had this issue previously, sometimes just rebooting or closing JRiver helps, but not this time. 
Any suggestions? I'd redownload and open the software, but it isn't easy to find on line these days. I still have the download file on my PC, but it doesn't seem to work to reinstall the JRiver software (I think this has helped before as well). 
Any ideas?


----------



## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

.


----------



## doctorjazz

Hi, Mikey, how're you doing?
One of the issues that makes me think the drivers are at least part of the issue is that the option to change to WASPI disappeared from my choices a while back (But ASIO seemed to work OK). 
I think everything was working recently (with ASIO); I had to disconnect everything, then upgraded to JRiver 25 (I think it was acting up already before the upgrade). 
I have my GO connected to a Revive, powered by LH LPS. No cables, the GO goes straight into the Revive (the revive does have a cable that connects to the PC). 
I am on Windows 10; didn't realize I could do without the drivers. (I have an old iMac, but it's not functioning these days). And I was going to an external amp, either modded Microzotl2, or a Liquid Carbon (computer audio is such a pain...)
Thanks for the suggestions.


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## m-i-c-k-e-y

I have better experience using Kernel Streaming.

If have problems w/ my DAC I attached them to my Android Smartphone and use UAAP or HibyMusic (free) to test.

Cheers!


----------



## doctorjazz

I don't see anything called "kernel streaming" in JRiver-is it called something else?
I do have a V40 phone, could try that...also have a Centrance M8 sitting around, may just give up on the Geek Out.


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## doctorjazz

Long time since anyone's been on this thread. I still use Geek Out SE out of my PC, JRiver software. It's been behaving pretty well all this time, but the drivers have disappeared on me (JRiver doesn't list LHlabs as an option for output). Anyone have a link for reinstalling the drivers? (I couldn't find them searching, or on my PC). Thanks.
(Happy New Year!)


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## doctorjazz

Never mind, I found the problem. 
Happy New Year anyway!


----------

