# How to make an interconnect Step by Step With Pics



## brschmid

Last Update 08-29-2004
 [size=xx-small]please do not PM with specific questions, i hardly have time to browse these forums weekly, so if you PM me a question, it will most likely not be answered, just post in the thread, there are many knowledible folks here. [/size]

 There are 3 guides, mini-mini, mini-RCA, RCA-RCA. The Pics are at the end, in the Reference Pics section. Also be sure to check out the comments. 
*The links work as of Aug. 29th, 2004; if the links don't work, (It appears that Markertek changes their links daily), just search for the part number and you will find them* 

*Tools:*

 Wire stripper
 Side cutters
 Soldering Iron
 Solder
 Multimeter is very helpful
 30 minutes of your time

*Building materials:* (they are links)

 Wire; your choice what and from where, these are what I like:

Canare Star Quad or Mini Star Quad, Pacific Radio also has it; * if you choose star quad use the white wire for the signal*see page 4 for explanation.
Homegrown Audio Silver Braid 
 CAT5E network cable works pretty nice too
 there are also many other good choices for wire out there, don't limit yourself to these

*Connectors; Your choice again:*

*right angle:*

Switchcraft 35HDRANN If this link doesn't work, search for the part number at markertek and you will it

*straight plug: *

Switchcraft 35HDNN If this link doesn't work, search for the part number at markertek and you will it

Canare F-12 If this link doesn't work, search for the part number at markertek and you will it

*RCA:*

HGA Rhodium 
Good selection of others from Parts Express 

*TechFlex and Heatshrink:*
 I have a another thread about this with many links, here 
 I use 3/8" to cover Starquad or similar size cable. it doesn't stretch to much and still looks good. 


*[size=small]Mini-Mini cable: [/size]*
 Switchcraft plugs in the pic






*Step 1:* Refer to Pic 0
 Check out your contacts on the plugs and determine what connection corresponds the each 1/3 of the plug. This will help you when you are assembling so you don't solder the same wire to 2 different points. The tip or the connector is Left, the middle is Right, and the base is ground. 

*Step2:* Reference Pics 1 and 2
 In the case of Canare Star Quad(but I am sure the other wire types are similar), strip of about 3/4" of the rubber insulation, then you will see some metal braid surrounding the inner wires, cut that off as well. You can also cut your wire to length now or before you add the other connector to the other end, it is up to you. I personally wait so i can maximize my bulk cable. 

*Step3:* Reference Pic 3
 Now you will see 4 wires. Pick 2 of them and designate them as ground and then the other 2 are left and right. Cut the insulation off the ground wires and solder them to the part of the plug that corresponds to ground, usually the part of the connector that has the most surface area and has threading on it for the cover to screw on to. 

*Step 4:* Reference Pic 3
 Pick a connection point and solder 1 wire to it, then do the same with other wire/connection point. Clamp the wire in place, then put on the plastic insulation sleeve and screw on the cover. 

*Step 5:* Refer to Pic 5
 Cut down your excess wire to length and * DONT Forget to slide on the Sleeve and Cover*(I have done this, Refer to Pic 4, I did this again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ). This is a good time to add your Covering if you are going to, it is hard to do when the cable is complete. 
 Repeat Steps 3 and 4, just make sure to connect the same wires to the same points. 

*Step 6: * 
 Test for continuity between the cables at each 1/3 of the plug with the other side. and then enjoy. 

*Notes:*
 I have only used Canare Star Quad cable, i found the Mini Star Quad too small in diameter. 
 The next cable i make is gonna be longer than my current one and i think i am gonna use Canare F-12 connectors becuase i don't need the right angles.


*[size=small]mini-RCA:[/size] *
 Canare F-12 and HGA RCA's in pic





* Step 1:*
 Start with your basic mini-mini steps, making sure to use 2 wires for ground when using the 4 conductor wire.
 You could use 2 different 2-conductor wires for this, so you wouldn't have to cut the casing on the cable to split it into the 'Y' shape, but I think using a single 4 conductor cable is easiest.

* Step 2:*
 Then, if you are using 4 conductor wire, cut off the casing and make 2 pairs out of the 4 individual wires. One pair for the left RCA and one for the right RCA.

*Add your covering now if you are going to cover the wire.* 

*Step 3:*Refer to Pic 6
 Put the cover for the RCA on the wire before soldering (Pic 4 again)Take the ground from the first pair of wires and solder it to the ground connection point on the RCA, then take the signal wire and solder it to the middle pin connection point. Take note of which channel it is, either left or right. Then repeat for the other RCA. 

*[size=small]RCA-RCA:[/size] * 





 For this one, you will only need 2 conductor wire. Refer to Step 3 from the mini-RCA instructions.

*[size=small]Reference Pics[/size]*

*0*





*1*





*2*





*3*





*4* you definitely don't want to be in this position, DOH!!!!





*5* finished connector





*6* RCA connector





*7* 'Y' split for mini-RCA





 [size=large]An Addition by infiskik[/size]
 Im not going to do the walk through like brschmid already did but i will do a pic by pic sequence, with a tiny

 description of each.

 1. some supplies
 A. Star Quad with Techflex on it.
 B. 3 extra pieces of quad cable
 C. 2 extra pieces of techflex
 D. SwitchCraft straight plugs, ones mentioned by brschmid (plugs, barrels, and sleves)
 E. Canare plugs, ones mentioned by brschmid.
 F. My Kershaw onion knief w/ half serated blade (best wire stripper ever by personal opinion  )





 2. cabl stripped bout 1/2 inch. shows the rubber outside, metal braid, thread, and wires in their natural twist.





 3. Cable stripped. see picture for explanation.





 4. cable stripped and conductor wires stripped and seperated. barrels and sleves PUT ON.





 5. solder points unsnipped. marked 1 2 3, 3 is ground, look at brschmids post for other 2 (its 2am i forget)





 6. solder points snipped. still marked 1 2 3.





 7. solder points from other end of cable still 1 2 3. (i bent the prongs a tad to make it easier on myself)





 8. finished 8 inch cable, with orange star quad and grey techflex, and the switch craft plugs.





 Ok, thats the assembly steps, these next pictures go over some tips i figured out to make things a tad easier on

 yourself, or atleast they did for me.

 1. i think brschmid went over this, but be carefull on how much of the rubber you strip off, and take the time to

 compare the depth of the plug and its conenctors. on the first 12 inch cable i made with the grey star quad i

 stripped a little too much rubber off and the crappy radioshack plug was not that deep. well as you can see the the

 plug isnt deep enough for the amount of rubber i stripped, so i have this horrid gap. i plan to fix it with heat shrink later.





 2. when putting the the techflex on i suggest leaving a tad off since its not expanded you can slip the barrel and

 sleve on the cable and flex much easier. youll figure it out pretty quick since the ends of techflex tend to frey

 quite bad when trying to slide it on the cable. Also its not the easiest thing to pull on the cable to being with,

 but it works like a chinese finger trap, so push it together and then slide it on. And if you look in the assembly

 pictures i have the edge of the stripped area taped with blue painters tape (doesnt leave sticky residue) to hold

 the techfex tight so it doesnt frey while working on the inner wires.






 3. The hardest thing i had to figure out was how to tell which wires were which on the other end. I didnt want to

 spend 80 bucks or so on a multimeter, since i didnt have one already. so i did a little improvising. I used a

 LED(2)and 4 tiny button cell batteries(1). I stripped all 4 of the inner wires on one side of cable, and only 2 on

 the other. i hooked the batteries to the end with the 2 exposed wires(3), then tested each wire on the other side

 systematically with the LED. ghetto but it worked.

 Other reference pics courtesy of RnB180
 XLR Connector





 RA switchcraft connector













 Switchcraft connector


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## hempcamp

Thanks for the great info. Getting ready to make my own headphone extenstion cable, so your link to Markertek was helpful. They have good prices on everything I need.

 --Chris


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## brschmid

no problem
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 does the guide seem resonable?


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## ImMersion

pretty good 
 thx


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## scottder

Maybe add some pictures?

 Scott


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## brschmid

i will work on it.


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## scottder

That would be great. One of these days I may give this a try.

 Scott


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## A3rd.Zero

you may want to add a bold highlighted underlined note to place the connector sleves on the cable before soldering. I know that I made this mistake many times building microphone cables. XLR's dont work at all without their cases 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Also I find using heatshrink at the cable to connector area, it makes the cable look a little more "finished".

 Milo


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## Lil_JV

Quote:


 _Originally posted by A3rd.Zero _
*you may want to add a bold highlighted underlined note to place the connector sleves on the cable before soldering. I know that I made this mistake many times building microphone cables. XLR's dont work at all without their cases 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Also I find using heatshrink at the cable to connector area, it makes the cable look a little more "finished".

 Milo * 
 

Very good tips. I have forgotten to put the sleeves on many times 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . I agree heatshrink makes it look better. I also really like the look of tech flex. It makes cables look very high quality. I plan on trying the venhaus design once I finish my amp and I want to try using tech flex.

 JV.


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## brschmid

My next cable is gonna have that tech flex stuff too. hopefully over christmas break i will make some new cables (all 3 types)


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## Glassman

can someone elaborate about ethernet cat5 cables? I mean they are twisted in certain way, what is the best scheme of connecting - for ground, signal, positive & negative, when you need two channels in one cable etc.


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## brschmid

when i made one before i just used 3 pieces out of the 8 and braided them together.


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## Glassman

right now I'm using silver plated Alcatel cat5e UTP as an aftermarket cable with my HD580s.. using two pairs for each channel.. the shielding wire in the little twist serves as ground and others as signal.. in ethernet applications there are only two pairs used for actuall communication, those two I'm using on one channel and the rest for the other channel.. I haven't experimented with other schemes, but it sound like a dream, MUCH better than stock and way better than another cable I've tried..


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## brschmid

good to hear...pun intended????


 Anyway, i order more supplies today, so hopefully in the next week or so i will update my guide with pics too
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and finish the RCA portions. 

 When i get my k271's i will update again with how to make a Mini-XLR


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## brschmid

Updated 12/07/2003 10:00pm CST


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## brschmid

bump


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## itza2mer

This is an approach I take for making my Y splits. I borrowed the idea from the folks at Zu Cable. I hope that it is helpful in this already wonderful thread.

 Here is a photo of the type of Y split Zu Cable uses. Go to Lowe's and buy a plastic pipe (3/8" or 1/2") for less than 2 dollars. Cut a 3/4" to 1 1/4" section off, superglue or epoxy the piece in place on the cabling. Cover the plastic piece using glue lined or regular heatshrink. Looks better on techflex covered cables.

http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4200278888


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## aeberbach

There are some bargains in data cable now - try some Belden 7812E. 50nF/km capacitance at 1kHz within the pair and each of the four pairs is separated by a white cross-web member running the length of the cable (think long white bendy Lego axle). Also each pair is bonded (each pair is joined) so that capacitance figure is good no matter how much you twist it or bend it. It's not expensive, quite flexible and even flame retardant. As a bonus you can network your house with it and be ready for gigabit


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## iPodophile

Great guide, brschmid. This will come in handy when I recieve my new soldering iron for Christmas.


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## scottder

Thanks again for this guide! We should all post our results. 

 Scott


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## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by itza2mer _
*This is an approach I take for making my Y splits. I borrowed the idea from the folks at Zu Cable. I hope that it is helpful in this already wonderful thread.

 Here is a photo of the type of Y split Zu Cable uses. Go to Lowe's and buy a plastic pipe (3/8" or 1/2") for less than 2 dollars. Cut a 3/4" to 1 1/4" section off, superglue or epoxy the piece in place on the cabling. Cover the plastic piece using glue lined or regular heatshrink. Looks better on techflex covered cables.

http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4200278888 * 
 

that looks good as well, but i like the way i did it. the pics don't do it justice. thanks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 i am gonna update the guide now with a note to check out the comments


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## scottder

From what I have read you should get a good mechainical connection, then solder the connetions in place. Does it take a lot of solder, or is this another case of less is more?

 Scott


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## itza2mer

Quote:


 _Originally posted by brschmid _
*that looks good as well, but i like the way i did it. the pics don't do it justice. thanks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 i am gonna update the guide now with a note to check out the comments
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


* 
 

No problem. I just posted to show another way to approach a Y split, not to knock your approach in any way. The cables look great, bty.


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## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by itza2mer _
*No problem. I just posted to show another way to approach a Y split, not to knock your approach in any way. The cables look great, bty. * 
 

Your method is good too, i did add to the top of the guide a note that says be sure to read all comments


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## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by scottder _
*From what I have read you should get a good mechainical connection, then solder the connetions in place. Does it take a lot of solder, or is this another case of less is more?

 Scott * 
 

I just use enough to get a good connection. so you do need a good mechanical connection as well.


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## scottder

Quote:


 _Originally posted by brschmid _
*I just use enough to get a good connection. so you do need a good mechanical connection as well. * 
 

Great, once again thanks for making this little step by step guide. 

 Scott


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## Lil_JV

brschmid did you have troubles soldering the F-12? I used many radioshack plugs (for practice) and they were very easy to solder but I found on the F-12 the solder did not want to stick. I even held the iron on it for a long time to get it very hot but the solder still did not want to stick.

 JV.


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## brschmid

they soldered just as easy as the switchcrafts, i didnt have any problems at all. I think my iron is 25 or 35 watts, i don't remember, it is the best one Ratshack sells with replaceable tips and heating element.

 i seem to remember burning my self too after they were soldered. i didn't have to hold the iron on each point for more than 5 seconds.


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## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by scottder _
*Thanks again for this guide! We should all post our results. 

 Scott * 
 

you should.


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## scottder

Anyone tried the homegrown audio yet?

 Scott


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## itza2mer

Quote:


 _Originally posted by scottder _
*Anyone tried the homegrown audio yet?

 Scott * 
 

brschmid's photos in this thread show them on the mini-RCA IC he built. They look great!


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## scottder

Quote:


 _Originally posted by itza2mer _
*brschmid's photos in this thread show them on the mini-RCA IC he built. They look great! * 
 

Ah is that the techflex they are covered in?

 Scott


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## itza2mer

Quote:


 _Originally posted by scottder _
*Ah is that the techflex they are covered in?

 Scott * 
 

Correct.


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## scottder

Quote:


 _Originally posted by itza2mer _
*Correct. * 
 

Thanks,looks really nice. I may pick up some cheapy stuff from Rat Shack and some Cat 5e cable I have, that way if thins go horribly wrong I'm not out much.

 Scott


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## brschmid

updated with smaller pics to make it more dial-up friendly.


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## brschmid

actually the cheap stuff at radio shack is more expensive that some stuff online.


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## Tom M

Nice pictures


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## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by Tom M _
*Nice pictures * 
 

thank you

 I am trying to make it one of the best guides around, so if anyone has suggestions, i am all ears(eyes
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


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## scottder

Quote:


 _Originally posted by brschmid _
*actually the cheap stuff at radio shack is more expensive that some stuff online. * 
 

Hmm well I can order the end connectors, and experiment with ethernet and other stuff I can get from work 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Scott


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## brschmid

i would suggest partexpress.com if you are gonna make RCA cables. they have an awesome selection.


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## scottder

Right now I am looking at making Mini->Mini and Mini->RCA. Maybe making some RCAs down the line for my SACD player.

 Scott


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## brschmid

might as well get it all from markertek then, just make sure to order enough because there is a 5.00 handling charge on every order. 

 pacific radio would be a good choice for supplies too if you want Canare stuff.


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## scottder

Few more silly questions:

 1) How is it to use that techflex tubing for running the Homegrown silver cabling?

 2) What do you use with the heatshrink? Does a hairdryer get hot enough?

 Scott

 AKA Master of Silly Questions


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## aerius

Quote:


 _Originally posted by scottder _*2) What do you use with the heatshrink? Does a hairdryer get hot enough? * 
 

Depends on the hairdryer, mine doesn't work very well but my mom's which has several heat settings works decently. Still, I prefer to use a butane mini-torch, it's a lot faster as long as you're careful and don't burn anything. A heatgun is likely the best solution since it heats more evenly than a mini-torch and it doesn't blow stuff all over the place like a hairdryer.


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## scottder

Quote:


 _Originally posted by aerius _
*Depends on the hairdryer, mine doesn't work very well but my mom's which has several heat settings works decently. Still, I prefer to use a butane mini-torch, it's a lot faster as long as you're careful and don't burn anything. A heatgun is likely the best solution since it heats more evenly than a mini-torch and it doesn't blow stuff all over the place like a hairdryer. * 
 

Thanks!

 Scott


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## brschmid

1.
 i never used the homegrown stuff. I would assume it would be the same though, just feed the wire thru the Techflex, the wire should be braided already.

 2. 
 I tried a hairdrier, it wasn't hot enough. i just used an old soldering iron tip. it worked really good


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## scottder

Was looking at the RCA connectors on Homegrown, some are desribed as having a "locking barrel", does this give a better physical connection with RCA?

 Scott


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## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by scottder _
*Was looking at the RCA connectors on Homegrown, some are desribed as having a "locking barrel", does this give a better physical connection with RCA?

 Scott * 
 

it might over time. the ones i bought are the cheaper rhodium rca's they sell. the connection they make is really tight. i need to pull quite hard to get them off.


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## scottder

I also have a grand plan of making a set of RCAs for my SACD player. All through a single bundle maybe. We shall see.

 Scott


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## brschmid

just be sure to post your pics


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## ProFingerSk8er

great guide! im very intersted and will soon build my own interconnect too..

 just wondering, what were the shipping charges when u guys ordered RCA plugs from Homegrown Audio and cable/miniplugs from markertek.com?
 both sites seems to have low prices for the parts i want, but i hate paying tons of shipping fees for low-priced items

 [edit]

 sorry but one more question, is the mini plug in the pic Switchcraft or Canare?





 thank a lot!


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## brschmid

shipping from HGA was 8.99 because the cheapest they offer is 2-day express 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Markertek i don't remember. maybe 5.00-7.00. because i wanted UPS, you can used USPS if you want thru them.


 That pic is Canare F-12

 other cable is Switchcraft.


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## ProFingerSk8er

thank you very much brschmid,
 aww... $8.99 shipping? *sigh* $9 shipping for $3.95 RCA plugs...seems soo not worth it, but i love how they look
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 maybe i should get more then a pair for future use

 damn...after added everything togather.. these DIY interconnects are expansive -___-


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## brschmid

expensive...sorta, they are cheaper than ones you buy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I order 4 of the HGA's to try to offset the shipping cost. i wish they offered something cheaper but it is Airborne Express 2nd day service.


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## scottder

Plus you have the satisfaction of building it yourself 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Scott


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## Dan the audioman

Quote:


 _Originally posted by scottder _
*Plus you have the satisfaction of building it yourself 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Scott * 
 

Ya! that applies to all DIY...


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## N@Z

Fantastic guide for a total DIY n00b like myself! I might actually try this out this weekend with some Canare cables & 1/8" minis.


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## ProFingerSk8er

ok..im finally gonna build my interconnect...
 however i need quite a few RCAs from home grown audio, i noticed they said "$7.20 each"

 does that mean one cost $7.20 or is that the price for a pair?
 thanks


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## pingles

I'm pretty sure it is per connector, so you'd need 4 for a stereo RCA to RCA.

 I bought a Silver Lace kit from them a while ago, and upgraded to the Silver Point for $40, they sell separately for $17.90 each, so unless they charge you more for putting them in a kit, they discount it.

 Incidentally, let me say it was actually pretty easy building the cable, it sounds absolutely awesome (HGA Silver Lace with the Silver Point connectors) and was great fun building it. I'd love to build another one. In fact I'd love to build a cable for my 650s around the silver lace :-D Anyway, I'd thoroughly recommend the kits from HGA if you're thinking of ordering from them.


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## ProFingerSk8er

thanks for the quick reply pingles,
 the project im currently thinking requires about 7 RCA plugs, and those Silver Midline Locking Barrel RCA looks just plan awsome..
 but that's over $50 on plugs alone
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 o well...i guess you get what you pay for x_X


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## pingles

Unfortunately true 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I only needed the single interconnect to go from my CD player to my PPA, I have a RCA-Mini that I got JMT to make at the same time, plus its only from an iPod so an amazing IC isn't really necessary.

 7 connectors does make it an expensive proposition though


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## scottder

Quote:


 _Originally posted by ProFingerSk8er _
*thanks for the quick reply pingles,
 the project im currently thinking requires about 7 RCA plugs, and those Silver Midline Locking Barrel RCA looks just plan awsome..
 but that's over $50 on plugs alone
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 o well...i guess you get what you pay for x_X * 
 

One of these days I need to build cables for my SACD player hooked into my home theater 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Scott


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## sleepkyng

from an ipod, does the interconnect going to the amp make that big of a difference?

 especially fora guy on a budget?


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## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by sleepkyng _
*from an ipod, does the interconnect going to the amp make that big of a difference?

 especially fora guy on a budget? * 
 

I noticed a difference from my zen to my amp when i switched from my crappy radio-shack cable to my own. 



  Quote:


 the project im currently thinking requires about 7 RCA plugs, and those Silver Midline Locking Barrel RCA looks just plan awsome.. 
 

get the HGA branded rhodium plugs, they are awesome quality. and the connection is really tight.


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## sleepkyng

8 bucks for a good mini to mini
 that's a good investment?


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## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by sleepkyng _
*8 bucks for a good mini to mini
 that's a good investment? * 
 

yes. if you make your own. You can build the same quality stuff that companies sell for 5 times the price. Many companies for example sells cables you can buy for 100.00 or build the same thing for 20-30 bucks. 

 go for it.


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## A3rd.Zero

recently I made a RCA to RCA interconnect with two conducter twisted 16ga. wire, and I got a large ammount of hum from the interconnect. In the past I have made cables with two conducter twisted sheilded cable and soldered the sheild to ground on one side. In the later setup I got no hum. So whats the deal, am i really getting all that hum by not having a braided/foiled sheild? I thought that twisting a signal with ground wire also sheilded the signal, but it must be less so.

 thoughts?

 Milo


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## itza2mer

Quote:


 _Originally posted by A3rd.Zero _
*So whats the deal, am i really getting all that hum by not having a braided/foiled sheild? I thought that twisting a signal with ground wire also sheilded the signal, but it must be less so.

 thoughts?

 Milo * 
 

Using braided shielding is a good idea, but your hum may not be caused by a lack of shielding. I recently ran into a problem that created a hum. I used shielded Canare Starquad to build a mini to RCA cable, and I had a really nasty hum. Turned out the 3.5 mm mini plug was defective.


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## A3rd.Zero

well I was using pretty cheep RCA's that I havent used before and I actually had to isolate some sections using JBWELD (which is non conductive by the way). But im comfortable with my solder joints, even though I had to shave some of them down with a knife.


 milo

 I dont know whatever!


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## itza2mer

Quote:


 _Originally posted by A3rd.Zero _
*well I was using pretty cheep RCA's that I havent used before and I actually had to isolate some sections using JBWELD (which is non conductive by the way). But im comfortable with my solder joints, even though I had to shave some of them down with a knife.


 milo

 I dont know whatever! * 
 

Zu Cable uses JBWeld on their plugs to hold things in place. I replaced a bad plug on my Pivot, and spotted the JB Weld. They used a Canare 3.5 mm plug, snipped off part of the cable clamp, JB Welded it in place, and replaced the Canare handle with a shorter brushed alumnium handle. If I'm satisfied with a cable I've built, I'll use Devcon Plastic Welder to help hold things in place.


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## superjohnny

Ok guys, I was skeptical at first, but I can clearly tell the difference between this and my RS interconnect. I'm made an interconnect for my sound card to amp using the purple Canare star quad cable & Canare F-12 connectors. My first reaction was "oh ****"... it's that good. I ordered from Markertek and they shipped very quickly. 

 This is a great project, thank you brschmid!


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## brschmid

whoops double post, see next


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## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by superjohnny _
*Ok guys, I was skeptical at first, but I can clearly tell the difference between this and my RS interconnect. I'm made an interconnect for my sound card to amp using the purple Canare star quad cable & Canare F-12 connectors. My first reaction was "oh ****"... it's that good. I ordered from Markertek and they shipped very quickly. 

 This is a great project, thank you brschmid! * 
 

you are welcome! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is the guide easy to follow, or do i need to perform some editing?


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## JeffL

I am in definite need of some decent interconnects...some short mini-minis, mini-rcas, etc.

 Would using Cat5e be all that good? I have tons of the stuff lying around and no need for it really. Otherwise, I will spring for some Star Quad I guess. The only issue I see with Cat5e would be shielding, or a lack thereof.

 Addon: From the looks of things, it would seem that the plugs cost way more than the cable. I wonder if any of these places do bulk discounts on say, 10 or more plugs? I definetly like to keep extra around...OTOH, I know someone who I will ask who runs his own theatre company..maybe I can get a deal on some plugs from him. We'll see...


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## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by JeffL _
*I am in definite need of some decent interconnects...some short mini-minis, mini-rcas, etc.

 Would using Cat5e be all that good? I have tons of the stuff lying around and no need for it really. Otherwise, I will spring for some Star Quad I guess. The only issue I see with Cat5e would be shielding, or a lack thereof.

 Addon: From the looks of things, it would seem that the plugs cost way more than the cable. I wonder if any of these places do bulk discounts on say, 10 or more plugs? I definetly like to keep extra around...OTOH, I know someone who I will ask who runs his own theatre company..maybe I can get a deal on some plugs from him. We'll see...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


* 
 

Cat5e is good, but yes, shielding is the problem.
 Star quad is like 0.30/ft. 
 and your right, connectors are the expensive part.


----------



## Demolition

Most of my Cat5 cables are computer interconnects, so I can't comment on how a Cat5 audio interconnect might sound. But, I've seen a number of people in these forums using Cat5, particularly for headphone and speaker cables. A search for "cat5" would turn up those threads.

 In any case, I suspect that Cat5 plenum-rated cable with foil shielding might work well. Then again, there are lots of unshielded interconnects that sound fine. Perhaps the only way to find out is to build one of each and see what they sound like on your rig.

 D.


----------



## superjohnny

Quote:


 _Originally posted by brschmid _
*you are welcome! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Is the guide easy to follow, or do i need to perform some editing? * 
 

The guide is excellent. It's clear and simple... don't change a thing.


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by superjohnny _
*The guide is excellent. It's clear and simple... don't change a thing. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


* 
 

thanks


----------



## hartphoto

I'm needing to make a cable to convert a 3.5mm stereo headphone jack (i.e. Shure E3c) into a headphone amp that has a Neutrik Locking 1/4" headphone jack. 

 Searched many of the links and/or manufacturers web sites, and can't seem to find a decent 3.5mm female stereo connector for this.

 Any ideas?

 BTW, first post after lurking for awhile. 

 Thanks for any input!


----------



## brschmid

welcome. 

 My suggestion would be so search markertech and see what they offer.


----------



## Demolition

Quote:


 _Originally posted by hartphoto _
*Searched many of the links and/or manufacturers web sites, and can't seem to find a decent 3.5mm female stereo connector for this.* 
 

 A few of us were discussing 3.5mm stereo inline jacks in this thread. Calrad's jacks look pretty good.

 D.


----------



## brschmid

updated 2-10-2004

 just added a pic of rca-rca


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by hartphoto _
*I'm needing to make a cable to convert a 3.5mm stereo headphone jack (i.e. Shure E3c) into a headphone amp that has a Neutrik Locking 1/4" headphone jack. 

 Searched many of the links and/or manufacturers web sites, and can't seem to find a decent 3.5mm female stereo connector for this.

 Any ideas?

 BTW, first post after lurking for awhile. 

 Thanks for any input! * 
 

i am going to need one of these as well, i was just gonna use a 3.5mm jack and wire it directly to the 1/4" jack to make a connector. When i do this, i will post pics.


----------



## hartphoto

Just made an adapter from 3/8" jack to 1/4" plug using:

 Calrad 30-319F
 Switchcraft SW297
 Canare Star Quad
 Flextech
 Kester Silver Solder 62/36/2

 I'm a believer in quality interconnects now, at least comparing it to the 3/8" female to 1/4" male 'one piece' stereo adapter that Ratshack sells. 

 I bought another set of plugs to make the same cable with some of the HGA Diva Braid. Will make that one soon to compare with.

 Thanks for this thread. Mucho helpful. I can post some pics if you want. Gonna go fall asleep listening to my rig now though


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by hartphoto _
*Just made an adapter from 3/8" jack to 1/4" plug using:

 Calrad 30-319F
 Switchcraft SW297
 Canare Star Quad
 Flextech
 Kester Silver Solder 62/36/2

 I'm a believer in quality interconnects now, at least comparing it to the 3/8" female to 1/4" male 'one piece' stereo adapter that Ratshack sells. 

 I bought another set of plugs to make the same cable with some of the HGA Diva Braid. Will make that one soon to compare with.

 Thanks for this thread. Mucho helpful. I can post some pics if you want. Gonna go fall asleep listening to my rig now though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


* 
 

can you post some pics, that would be awesome if you could


----------



## 3lite

Some questions:

 What is heatshrinking, and where am I meant to do it?

 I want to make a RCA to RCA cable like this:






 How can I do the Y splits nicely? I searched google and couldn't find anything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .

 The bottom diagram in my picture is how I would solder the cables; brown is ground and black is the other bit. Is this OK?

 Thanks!


----------



## brschmid

there is heatshrink on the left side of this pic. I used it to cover the y-split and hold the techflex in place. 

 heatshrinking? where ever you think you need it. I heatshrink my plugs(under the outside cover) and where techflex ends.


----------



## Ebonyks

Something perhaps worth mentioning:

 While i don't reccomend using starquad in any situation (PVC dieletrical, it's terrible stuff), if you have to, use the white part to carry the signal. PVC's dieletrical properties are compromised by adding coloring agents (This is unique to PVC, if you're using a wire with a superior dieletric, like teflon, this advice need not be followed)


----------



## itza2mer

Quote:


 _Originally posted by Ebonyks _
*Something perhaps worth mentioning:

 While i don't reccomend using starquad in any situation (PVC dieletrical, it's terrible stuff), if you have to, use the white part to carry the signal. PVC's dieletrical properties are compromised by adding coloring agents (This is unique to PVC, if you're using a wire with a superior dieletric, like teflon, this advice need not be followed) * 
 

I agree. When using Starquad, you get a 'cleaner', more 'dynamic' sound if you use the white for the signal. I didn't know why until now. Thanks!


----------



## brschmid

i will keep that in mind and edit the guide


----------



## fiddler

Quote:


 _Originally posted by Ebonyks _
*Something perhaps worth mentioning:

 While i don't reccomend using starquad in any situation (PVC dieletrical, it's terrible stuff), if you have to, use the white part to carry the signal. PVC's dieletrical properties are compromised by adding coloring agents (This is unique to PVC, if you're using a wire with a superior dieletric, like teflon, this advice need not be followed) * 
 

According to Canare's site their Star Quad cables use irradiated polyethylene, which is supposed to be better than PVC for audio cable use.


----------



## hartphoto

Here's some interesting reading:

 <http://home.austin.rr.com/tnulla/dunlavy.htm>

 Cable specific:

 <http://home.austin.rr.com/tnulla/duncable.htm>

 brschmid's thread is an excellent primer on starting DIY cable making. Especially on what and where. 

 It shouldn't dive into the abyss of discussing 'Do ICs and speaker cables make a difference'. 

 Quality mechanical connections and components to make those connections matter, but IMO, it stops there, because you reach a point of diminishing returns. After that, a point of 'he said, she said' is found that goes nowhere.


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by hartphoto _
*

 brschmid's thread is an excellent primer on starting DIY cable making. Especially on what and where. 

* 
 

thanks, that is all it was supposed to be.


----------



## Submarinesailor

Anyone got any experience with the switchcraft mini 3.5 mm right angle connectors that have the small opening for the cable? What cable will fit into it? 
 Thanks!


----------



## brschmid

what small opening?
 do you have a link to the connector you are looking at?


----------



## Demolition

He's referring to the cable entry hole in the plug's screw-on metal sleeve. As some may recall, the same thing happened to me. I described the problem (and the solution) in this thread.

 In an nutshell: I enlarged the hole with a 1/4" drill bit. (note: the metal sleeve for the straight and right-angle 3.5 mm plugs are the same)

 D.


----------



## brschmid

the star-quad or similar size cable should fit just fine.


----------



## amol

brschmid, you mentioned you can also use CAT cable for making Mini-> RCA cable, but how do you cover the cable or is the bare braided wire good enough ? wont it pickup noise from nearby?


----------



## Submarinesailor

Demolition: Thanks, I appreciate it. 

 brschmid: mini-Star Quad doesn't fit this opening as is. 

 Regards!


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by amol _
*brschmid, you mentioned you can also use CAT cable for making Mini-> RCA cable, but how do you cover the cable or is the bare braided wire good enough ? wont it pickup noise from nearby? * 
 

there are other's here who have made cables with CAT wire. I use it to hook stuff up inside amps, and i don't have any issues. 

 I am sure you can buy the metal braid somewhere, but i am unsure where. 


  Quote:


 brschmid: mini-Star Quad doesn't fit this opening as is. 
 

Do you have a link or the part number?


----------



## fool

Doesn't seem like original link to the Canare star quad is working, here's the new one:

http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp...&search=0&off=

 Thanks for the tutorial!

 -fool


----------



## g_hause

As long as CAT 5 remains twisted, interference chould not pose a problem.


----------



## g_hause

What size (diameter) Techflex do you reccomend? Is 3/8 too small?
 thanks


----------



## amol

Do you mean i could use it for making a Mini -> RCA interconnect without shielding it? and using the bare wires , after stripping open the grey cover?


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by g_hause _
*What size (diameter) Techflex do you reccomend? Is 3/8 too small?
 thanks * 
 

for what?


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by fool _
*Doesn't seem like original link to the Canare star quad is working, here's the new one:

http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp...&search=0&off=

 Thanks for the tutorial!

 -fool * 
 

to the plug? which plug did you get that isn't working?


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


 _Originally posted by amol _
*Do you mean i could use it for making a Mini -> RCA interconnect without shielding it? and using the bare wires , after stripping open the grey cover? * 
 

as long as the wires remain twisted and you don't remove the covering over the indivual wires you should be ok.


----------



## Demolition

Quote:


 _Originally posted by brschmid _
*to the plug? which plug did you get that isn't working? * 
 

 I think that he's referring to the Switchcraft right angle mini. The cable entry hole is supposed to be 6.35mm (0.25 in.) according to the specs, but the example that he bought has a hole that's only 4.3mm. Not even Mini Star Quad (~5mm including jacket) can be jammed into it.

 I received several of the straight mini plugs with smaller-than-specced cable holes. The right angle mini shares the same metal sleeve as the straight plugs. To fit jacketed Star Quad, you have to drill out the hole with a 1/4" bit.

 D.


----------



## g_hause

Quote:


 for what? 
 

I'm thinking about going for broke and making a mini > Rca using Homegrown Diva briad (4 wire).
 I don't know what I should use to cover the wire. Heatshrink + Techflex? just heatshrink? Thoughts?
 thanks
 g


----------



## Megaptera

Quote:


 I'm thinking about going for broke and making a mini > Rca using Homegrown Diva briad (4 wire).
 I don't know what I should use to cover the wire. Heatshrink + Techflex? just heatshrink? Thoughts?
 thanks 
 

I just made a 1' RCA-RCA using HGA Diva braid and gold standard plugs. I didn't bother putting any shielding or techflex on it and it looks and sounds just fine. If I put anything on it, I would just put techflex -- I don't see a need for heatshrinking the entire thing, since the heatshrink on the ends will keep the braid together.


----------



## brschmid

yeah, just use techflex to cover it.


----------



## fool

Quote:


 _Originally posted by brschmid _
*to the plug? which plug did you get that isn't working? * 
 

I tried the link for the 'canare star quad' cable in your original post. So I posted the updated cable link.

 Also...for sizes...mini-->mini should use 1/8 inch techflex and mini--> rca should use 1/4inch techflex? Is that what you used brschmid?

 Thanks.

 -fool


----------



## brschmid

i will change the link, thanks.

 i used 3/8" techflex to cover the starquad.


----------



## brschmid

ok, i fixed my links, most of them were bad.


----------



## cam

Sorry if this is totally obvious, but I am unsure of whether the same process (and materials used) could yield me a nice guitar cord. If not, what would I need to modify (besides changing plugs to 1/4" of course)?

 Thanks,
 Cam

 EDIT: added plug size bit...


----------



## brschmid

that is it, just use a different plug


----------



## Dane

Tip:

 I had a problem getting the techflex stuff in my area. It turned out that a computer store specialized in "case modding" (you know glowing CPU fans and that kind of stuff) had a kit with various sizes of techflex-like material and also different colors. The pieces wasn't that long, maybe a meter, but it's fine for small cables.

 Great thread by the way, brschmid


----------



## brschmid

no problem, it is just a place to start, you know


----------



## Phil Ramsay

Has anyone tried using braided silver in TechFlex as a _short _ headphone cable replacement on _PORTABLE _ headphones? 

 I'm considering using Home Grown Audio silver braid as a rather short (about 2.5 foot) replacement cable for my Grado SR225 headphones. 

 I use the headphones most of the day at work, plugged into an iPod on a belt clip. The stock Grado cord (long and heavy with 1/4" jack) wasn't working out for this application, so I currently have it shortened up to little a stub with a 1/4" jack, and a homemade 'Grado' 1/4" to 1/8" adaptor. In practice though, they rarely get used with a longer cord, and the weight and bulk of the in-line 1/4" plug and jack is kind of irritating.

 I was getting ready to make some silver braid interconnects, and got the idea of doing my trusty Grado's similarly. 

 I'd replace everything below the Grado 'Y' connection with silver braid shouded in TechFlex, and terminated with a 1/8" Switchcraft right angle plug, to minimize torque at the headphone jack on the iPod, or amp when I use one. 

 I'm concerned though, that braided solid silver wire might be too stiff, and could fatigue and break in an application where movement is the norm. 

 I've 'mocked up' a short piece of silver braid in TechFlex, and it seems a _little _ stiff, but not _terrible_...

 What do you think? Anyone tried anything like this?

 Is this advised, or not?

 Phil


----------



## brschmid

go for it! it shouldn't be too stiff. 

 The zu cable i have for my AKG's is a little stiff, but when i use them, i am moving around usually and it isn't too annoying.


----------



## Edwood

I did a comparison of different types of TechFlex here for thsoe that aer tinterested in the different type s of techflex. My current favorit is Nylon (NY) Multifilament.

http://www5.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=67697

 Pics on the last page.

 -Ed


----------



## archosman

I work in a Video Post house and have virtually all the raw materials to work with. In fact I made my first cables yesterday... a XLR female to RCA male. I was pleasantly surprised when it worked! My question is does anyone have an opinion on a _Belden Cable 8451_ shielded? That's what is mostly used... especially in our patch panels.


----------



## Mr.PD

I've used Belden 8451 shielded in an rca to mini cable, and in a mini to mini cable. In the mini to mini I stripped the Belden wire out of it's jacket because two runs of it wouldn't fit in my CAT5 jacket. Other than the stiffness (with it's jacket), I like the stuff. I like it better than my CAT5 mini to mini and it is very similar to my JMT built solid silver mini to mini.

 I have one question.
 My older mini to mini cable has switchcraft right angle plugs. I am having oxidation problems with those plugs. They turn black and lose connection often, especially at the player end. I noticed that some of the nickel plating has flaked off. Which seemed to happen after I treated them with some stuff I got with my Cardas headphone cable. I have searched for the gold version of those plugs and haven't been able to find a seller of those. 
 What can I do to keep these from losing contact?


----------



## Dane

Yes, I have to say that I was also disappointed with the quality of the Switchcraft mini plugs. I first got a nickel plated one and the surface of the pin looked so uneven and horrible that I ordered a gold plated one. It looks better, although the finish is still very crude and rough. I also got some Switchcraft RCA plugs and they are *much* better - I dont know what they're up to with those mini plugs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'm pretty sure a seller of the nickel plated ones can get you the gold plated also if you ask. That's what I did.


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dane* 
_Yes, I have to say that I was also disappointed with the quality of the Switchcraft mini plugs. I first got a nickel plated one and the surface of the pin looked so uneven and horrible that I ordered a gold plated one. It looks better, although the finish is still very crude and rough. I also got some Switchcraft RCA plugs and they are *much* better - I dont know what they're up to with those mini plugs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm pretty sure a seller of the nickel plated ones can get you the gold plated also if you ask. That's what I did._

 


 weird, i have no issues at all with my nickel plated switchcrafts


----------



## Standard CompAmp

These are nice for an IC:






 Spring action-plugs, connection can be tightened up to improve the tangent plane.


----------



## CBMC

Why with the starquad is it suggested that you use the white as the signal. Does it really matter if you use the blue wires as the signal and the white as the ground? It says see page 6, but I could not find that. Anyone know the reason behind this?


----------



## ProFingerSk8er

Quote:


 While i don't reccomend using starquad in any situation (PVC dieletrical, it's terrible stuff), if you have to, use the white part to carry the signal. PVC's dieletrical properties are compromised by adding coloring agents (This is unique to PVC, if you're using a wire with a superior dieletric, like teflon, this advice need not be followed) 
 

it's on page 4 now, because we now have more post per page


----------



## CBMC

OK, thanks, I didn't see that. I still don't know if I buy it. I will give it a try and see.


----------



## brschmid

I will update that i guess.


----------



## ElChupahueso

Ok, so i've just re-read the tutorial on making the mini-mini IC and i just want to make sure of something before i go and attempt to make this. 

 In the tutorial it says that the ground should be soldered on both plugs. Ok, but what about making a replacement cable for phones? Specifically, I want to make a couple of replacement cables for my HP890's. [For those who are unfamiliar with them, they have a 2.5mm jack in the left ear for the cable to connect to] After having read through a couple of other threads where it's been mentioned that the ground shouldn't be connected on the source; IIFC; end of things, does this apply here? Or should I go ahead and connect the ground on both ends like an IC?

 Thanx in advance,

 Decay


----------



## rayofsi

you always connect ground... you are talking about connecting the shield to ground. if you are using something other then the shield for ground, ie* a wire, then you would connect the shield to ground on the source side.

 if shield = ground, then guess what you need a ground, so connect the shield on both sides.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ElChupahueso* 
_Ok, so i've just re-read the tutorial on making the mini-mini IC and i just want to make sure of something before i go and attempt to make this. 

 In the tutorial it says that the ground should be soldered on both plugs. Ok, but what about making a replacement cable for phones? Specifically, I want to make a couple of replacement cables for my HP890's. [For those who are unfamiliar with them, they have a 2.5mm jack in the left ear for the cable to connect to] After having read through a couple of other threads where it's been mentioned that the ground shouldn't be connected on the source; IIFC; end of things, does this apply here? Or should I go ahead and connect the ground on both ends like an IC?

 Thanx in advance,

 Decay_


----------



## ElChupahueso

Right on. Ok, now with that bit of knowledge under my belt, i'm off to order some cable. Pics to hopefully follow.

 Decay


----------



## Chu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itza2mer* 
_This is an approach I take for making my Y splits. I borrowed the idea from the folks at Zu Cable. I hope that it is helpful in this already wonderful thread.

 Here is a photo of the type of Y split Zu Cable uses. Go to Lowe's and buy a plastic pipe (3/8" or 1/2") for less than 2 dollars. Cut a 3/4" to 1 1/4" section off, superglue or epoxy the piece in place on the cabling. Cover the plastic piece using glue lined or regular heatshrink. Looks better on techflex covered cables.

http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4200278888_

 

 mmm . . . link is now broken. Mind fixing it so I can see what your talking about? Better looking cables is always nice


----------



## brschmid

when did this get made into a sticky?


----------



## brschmid

would anyone like me to update this with a "subwoofer" interconnect section, or just leave it the way it is?


----------



## scottder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brschmid* 
_would anyone like me to update this with a "subwoofer" interconnect section, or just leave it the way it is?_

 

I say go for it!


----------



## brschmid

ok, i should be getting my supplies this weekend, so i will try to update it then, the Subwoofer interconnect is made the same way as a Digital Coax interconnect or a video interconnect.


----------



## IdiotTech

Would the 1/4" tech flex work fine for the starquad cable or is it not thick enough? Also to make the Y cable do you use smaller tech flex like 1/8"?


----------



## Lil_JV

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *IdiotTech* 
_Would the 1/4" tech flex work fine for the starquad cable or is it not thick enough? Also to make the Y cable do you use smaller tech flex like 1/8"?_

 

It works however it stretches just enough so you can see what color the starquad is. Black techflex over blue starquad looks awesome IMO.

 JV.


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil_JV* 
_It works however it stretches just enough so you can see what color the starquad is. Black techflex over blue starquad looks awesome IMO.

 JV._

 


 yes it does, i have 2 cables like that and i love the color it produces.


----------



## bhd812

i posted a seperate thread but hope this helps me and others that will go down my path

 ok So after making thousands of xlr dmx-512 interconnects for my lighting company I firgured why not make my own interconnect for me...lol


 so I got me some belden 120ohm low volt computer cable.

 the model number is 9841 60 (chr)

 so can I use this stuff?

 it has a blue wire, white wire, and a ground.
 so on rca's i wont use one of the wires rite?

 and on mini to mini i will use both rite?


 where do i get all the cool shrink wrap for the ends????



 thanx guys i am soooo excited


----------



## brschmid

i don't see why you couldn't use that wire. It will provide better shielding than plain old cable. 

 Techflex and heatshrink? just run a search in the DIY and you will find some good threads with links to the cool stuff.

 on the RCA you could use all 3 if you wish, just use 2 for ground. 
 and the mini, yes you use all 3.


----------



## IdiotTech

You should be able to links for all the supplies on this page. You could even go get some stuff drom radio shack but the quality usually isnt great. And its even better if youve got some type of parts shop around. I have a marvac around so i tend to use that more. I just got done with my interconnect. Ill post the pictures later when i have my camera.


----------



## bhd812

So today I went out and bought a bunch of stuff...like $120 worth....

 lol i am not worried I rather spend it on messing around with this and having the joy of making something in the end.


 now let me get this strait, I can use any kind of wire for a interconnect?

 like can I use a 18awg that you would buy a rat shack and it comes in the pretty red,black, and green colors 


 for rca?

 can i do something the looks like the kimber pbj..???

 thanx guys wat a great thread


----------



## brschmid

yes you can use anything for an interconnect. I just made a subwoofer interconnect last week and i used 75ohm RG-6. it sounds great.


----------



## Wired_Gargoyle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bhd812* 
_now let me get this strait, I can use any kind of wire for a interconnect?

 like can I use a 18awg that you would buy a rat shack and it comes in the pretty red,black, and green colors 


 for rca?

 can i do something the looks like the kimber pbj..???

 thanx guys wat a great thread_

 

You can pretty much use any kind of wire for interconnects. There are of course qualifiers to this statement... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The better quality, guage, shielding, soldering job, plugs, length, etc. will effect performance to some degree. But just because a wire cost $10 per foot doesn't always mean it will perform better than something you got at Home Depot.

 I've done a few using Cat5 and they sound very good. One tip/hint/secret I have used to excellent results is using old coiled headphone cable that I cut off some old headphones I had laying around. Solve two problems at once and sometimes three:

 - it's coiled so easier to manage
 - one end may have a plug on it that you already want
 - shielding may also be present.

 I have two sets of salvaged headphone cords done. One is a 3.5mm to 1/4" and the other is 3.5mm (L shape) on both ends.


----------



## Kenny12

ok i'm going to build some out of cat5 cable, i have both solid and stranded core cables lying around, which ones shoud i use? 

 also i want to have some sort of shielding, since i'm only going to use 1 strand per channel, and there are 8 strands in a cable, could i leave the 5 ohters inside and expect them to act as shielding, if so are there any specific ways to do this? thanks in advance


----------



## nick_sabatino

If im doing a single RCA - RCA connector, can i just use a 2-conductor wire? or does the ground need 2 wires to function properly?

 Thanks


----------



## Kenny12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nick_sabatino* 
_If im doing a single RCA - RCA connector, can i just use a 2-conductor wire? or does the ground need 2 wires to function properly?

 Thanks_

 

just 1 wire is fine for ground


----------



## appar111

"Step3: Reference Pic 3
 Now you will see 4 wires. Pick 2 of them and designate them as ground and then the other 2 are left and right. Cut the insulation off the ground wires and solder them to the part of the plug that corresponds to ground, usually the part of the connector that has the most surface area and has threading on it for the cover to screw on to."

 Just a quick question here-- I haven't read through this entire thread-- in the picture, there are two blue wires and two white wires. I understand to solder the blue ones to the ground, and then one white to the left and the other to the right. But when I'm doing the other end of the cable, how do I know which white wire I soldered to left and which wire I soldered to right? i.e. what would happen if I soldered one particular wire to left at the first end of the cable, and then mistakenly soldered the other end of that particular wire to right at the other end? How can I prevent from doing something like that?

 thanks in advance,


----------



## Megaptera

Quote:


 But when I'm doing the other end of the cable, how do I know which white wire I soldered to left and which wire I soldered to right? 
 

[obiwan]Use the multimeter, Luke.[/obiwan] Check for resistance from the end of one wire to an end on the other side of the cable. If it's less than infinite resistance, the two ends are on the same wire.


----------



## appar111

Also, (another noob question here).. where do I get the rubber sleeve that goes under the connector cover? Or does that come with the connector? So far, I know where to go for techflex, cable, Canare or Switchcraft connectors.... any other items (such as the rubber sleeves) that I'm missing?

 Also, do I need a multimeter, or can I do without one? How much do they cost? Where's the best place to get one?


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *appar111* 
_Also, (another noob question here).. where do I get the rubber sleeve that goes under the connector cover? Or does that come with the connector? So far, I know where to go for techflex, cable, Canare or Switchcraft connectors.... any other items (such as the rubber sleeves) that I'm missing?

 Also, do I need a multimeter, or can I do without one? How much do they cost? Where's the best place to get one?_

 

you dont need an expensive meter. a 20.00 ratshack meter will do just fine. 

 What rubber connectors? the heatshrink, if so you need to buy it. most places that sell techflex sell heatshrink. 

 If you are talking about internal protection in the connector, most come with a plastic sleave.


----------



## appar111

I was talking about the latter--- good to know that the connectors come with those... I found a decent $20 multimeter at Lowe's, as well as a Weller soldering iron, which I'm told is much better than the Radio Shack irons...

 How the heck do I use a multimeter? I'm not even sure what it's used for...


----------



## scottder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *appar111* 
_I was talking about the latter--- good to know that the connectors come with those... I found a decent $20 multimeter at Lowe's, as well as a Weller soldering iron, which I'm told is much better than the Radio Shack irons...

 How the heck do I use a multimeter? I'm not even sure what it's used for..._

 

What model did you get?


----------



## brschmid

you might want to read your manual for teh meter
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 just use the ohms setting or continuity setting (the one that beeps when there is a "short")


----------



## appar111

It's an AW Sperry from Lowes:

http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=prod...3-1118-DM350-A

 I haven't actually bought any of my cable making supplies, but with this tutorial, and the DIY cable pics, it's really inspired me. It doesn't look all too difficult, and maybe I can start offering my services once I get good at making cables!


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *appar111* 
_It's an AW Sperry from Lowes:

http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=prod...3-1118-DM350-A

 I haven't actually bought any of my cable making supplies, but with this tutorial, and the DIY cable pics, it's really inspired me. It doesn't look all too difficult, and maybe I can start offering my services once I get good at making cables!_

 


 that link doesn't work for me. 

 the cables are really easy to make, preperation is the longest part of the process, the soldering is seconds. I have only made a few cables and i can get one done in under 15 minutes.


----------



## appar111

Whoops, I forgot you need to add in your local zip code for that site. It's just an inexpensive AW Sperry multimeter, yellow. I figure that's gonna be the most expensive part of the initial setup to start making cables.

 But once I get started, I'm sure it will be addictive. Just begs the question-- how many cables do I really need around the house?


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *appar111* 
_Whoops, I forgot you need to add in your local zip code for that site. It's just an inexpensive AW Sperry multimeter, yellow. I figure that's gonna be the most expensive part of the initial setup to start making cables.

 But once I get started, I'm sure it will be addictive. Just begs the question-- how many cables do I really need around the house?_

 


 now you are thinking...when i get my new reciever for my HT, i am going to be building all new cables for that too.....


----------



## haycheng

it is a very informative guide. I am very ignorance about cable and other DIY stuffs though. I still do not understand the idea of grounding(isnt the purpose of grounding is to provide a shorten path to release the charge, netural the potential different in order to avoid shock?). Is there any good book or internet site that I can get more information on electronic stuffs.


----------



## widds2v

Couple questions, does the canare starquad fit in the canare F12s perfectly or is it too loose/tight? Secondly what size techflex would you use for that... 1/8 or 1/4"? Thirdly where are you guys finding the cool colors! Everything I find is plain colors except the fire retardent stuff which has some "tracers" on it.


----------



## sanaka

Just to settle the "use the white wires for signal" thing regarding Canare Star Quad:

 The reason given for this, originally by Ebonyks, was because the dielectric properties of PVC insulation are degraded by coloring agents. So, white = no color, therefore no degradation, therefore better for signal.

 For one thing, this assumes that that pure, bright white you see on two of the wires is the natural color of PVC. I'm not sure that's so. If it's not, the white insulators have colorants just like the blue ones.

 Much more importantly, as pointed out by fiddler, *Canare Star Quad doesn't use PVC insulation.* See their web page here. Indeed the _jacketing_ of the cable, which affects (or not) all 4 conductors equally, is PVC. But the insulation on the conductors themselves is shown as "IPE," presumably irradiated polyethylene, a better dielectric material.

 So the "use white for signal" issue, whether or not one believes it would make a difference for PVC insulation, is moot for Canare Star Quad.

 Peace,
 Sanaka


----------



## drewd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *widds2v* 
_Couple questions, does the canare starquad fit in the canare F12s perfectly or is it too loose/tight? Secondly what size techflex would you use for that... 1/8 or 1/4"? Thirdly where are you guys finding the cool colors! Everything I find is plain colors except the fire retardent stuff which has some "tracers" on it._

 

The starquad fits perfectly in the F12s. So perfectly, in fact, that if you want to use techflex over it, you won't be able to use the metal strain reliefs.

 If you use 1/8" techflex, then more of the color of the cable will show through. If you use 1/4" techflex, the techflex color will be the predominant color.

 Parts Express has a range of colors of techflex. Look here .

 Also, if you buy some, do yourself a favor and buy the $9 hot knife, too. Techflex has this miraculous property of unraveling very quickly if you cut it with scissors. Resist the temptation to cut it with your soldering iron - it'll gunk up the tip like you wouldn't believe!

 -Drew


----------



## brschmid

i use my old Rat shack iron to cut techflex and shrink heatshrink.


----------



## redshifter

don't laugh, but instead of buying a multimeter, couldn't i simply put one end of the wire on a 9 volt battery, and touch the other end to my tongue to determine which is left and right?

 also, the links to the right angle 1/8" plugs are wrong. does anyone know _one supplier_ where i can get starquad cable, flextech, right angle 1/8" plugs, wire tools and good solder?

 thanks.


----------



## Megaptera

You could do that, Red, but I don't know how comfortable I would be with the possibility of shorting a 9V battery through my tongue. I would maybe use a small light bulb instead. However, if you're interested in making more than one set of cables, even a really cheap Radio Shack multimeter will make things much easier -- plus it'd be one more tool you've already got in case you want to try something more complicated, like amps or space shuttles.

 Regarding suppliers, check Pacific Radio. I don't know for a fact that they have wire tools, but they'll definitely have the other things you're looking for. Wire tools are common enough that you could probably find them at any local store that sells hardware -- I wouldn't be surprised to see them in CVS or some such place.


----------



## redshifter

it's how i've always checked batteries... i guess that explains some things... 

 thanks! i'll check it out for those supplies.


----------



## hottyson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *redshifter* 
_don't laugh, but instead of buying a multimeter, couldn't i simply put one end of the wire on a 9 volt battery, and touch the other end to my tongue to determine which is left and right?_

 

DON'T LAUGH! You have got to be kidding! How could I not laugh when I read that? Thanks for the good one. I needed that!






 heehee


----------



## Voodoochile

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brschmid* 
_i use my old Rat shack iron to cut techflex and shrink heatshrink._

 

Same here. I knew it had a purpose in life!
 I actually filed the tip into a sort of knife-shape as well.


----------



## redshifter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hottyson* 
_DON'T LAUGH! You have got to be kidding! How could I not laugh when I read that? Thanks for the good one. I needed that!





 heehee



_

 

glad i could help.

 can anyone give me a link to the switchcraft gold right angle 1/8" stereo plug? i've been googling for it but cannot find it.


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *redshifter* 
_glad i could help.

 can anyone give me a link to the switchcraft gold right angle 1/8" stereo plug? i've been googling for it but cannot find it._

 

you know i have never been able to find those either. 

 and actually you are not supposed to mixed different metals in the connections, so unless you are using gold plated jacks as well, you won't get better performace.

 i will try to get my links updated


----------



## redshifter

thanks brs. the link works now. i ordered the nickle ra minis. i also picked up 15' of starquad. i'll stop at ratshack tonight for a soldering clamp, some 4% silver solder and flux. if i'm able to make some decent cables i may try the silver cables next.


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *redshifter* 
_thanks brs. the link works now. i ordered the nickle ra minis. i also picked up 15' of starquad. i'll stop at ratshack tonight for a soldering clamp, some 4% silver solder and flux. if i'm able to make some decent cables i may try the silver cables next._

 

ratshack silver solder sucks. i don't recommend it, unless you are really good at soldering.


----------



## PYROTAK

when you guys talk about starquad are you talking about the normal stuff or the starquad mini?


----------



## Megaptera

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brschmid* 
_ratshack silver solder sucks. i don't recommend it, unless you are really good at soldering._

 

It eats my iron tips like candy. I used this latest tip on a CMoy, a Pimeta, a PPA, quite a few cables, and a few other minor things with no noticeable decay. I switch to the Radio Shack solder for the STEPS and by halfway through the tip wasn't useable anymore.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PYROTAK* 
_when you guys talk about starquad are you talking about the normal stuff or the starquad mini?_

 

When I talk about it, I refer to what Pacific Radio labels L-4E6S Canare Star Quad. I do not think it is the mini cable.


----------



## PYROTAK

so i notice some people are making a single channel RCA using the starquad.

 how does one do this?

 braid the blues and whites together and use bunch as signal and 1 as ground?

 seems a bit tough to me. if anyone has pics that would be greatly appreciated!

 also HOW HARD exactly is it to put the starquad into the 3/8 nylon multifilliment?

 and will that size nylon be able to shrink down to just hold the two conductors in a mini to rca cable? or is techflex just a better option?


----------



## Voodoochile

I tend to use the blue pair for signal, white pair for ground, then attach the shield braid to the ground shell only on the signal source end. Seems to work very well.

 I've also made some ICs with Canare's GS-6 cable- they are very nice, and the cable is simpler to work with.


----------



## thrice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voodoochile* 
_I tend to use the blue pair for signal, white pair for ground, then attach the shield braid to the ground shell only on the signal source end. Seems to work very well_

 

Hmmm, I've never attached the sheilding braid like that. How do you indicate which end of the cable is which (source vs. amp) and what is the benefit of attaching the sheilding braid to source ground?

 Thanks,
 thrice


----------



## Voodoochile

As for ID of the fully grounded end, I add a small ring of heatshrink to one end, just to differentiate it from the other end.


----------



## drewd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thrice* 
_Hmmm, I've never attached the sheilding braid like that. How do you indicate which end of the cable is which (source vs. amp) and what is the benefit of attaching the sheilding braid to source ground?_

 

The benefit is that any noise that is coupled onto the shield is shunted to ground instead of to the signal pair inside the cable. It's attached to the source ground so that it is not a signal ground, that is, no current should flow, and also so that there is only a single ground reference, that of the source.

 -Drew


----------



## sanaka

Re: starquad RCA ic's

 I do mine just as Voodoochile describes, and with the reasoning described by drewd.

 I just installed some of these for hookups between PC and recording and monitoring equipment - IOW right through the great huge spaghetti-pile-noise-zone of wires behind my computer desk. It very much attenuated some noise and hum I was getting previously.

 Peace,
 Sanaka


----------



## redshifter

what 4% silver solder would you recommend instead of the rat shack? also, what is a good brand iron?


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *redshifter* 
_what 4% silver solder would you recommend instead of the rat shack? also, what is a good brand iron?_

 

Wellers make excellent irons. I don't even remember which one i have 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 it was about 25.00 though. really, really nice compared to my ratshack iron.

 and i actually use Ratshack solder, i don't even remember the ratio now, but there is no silver, because i haven't built any silver wires yet.
 I now it is crap stuff though because i tried it on my millet amp and it didn't work, and was a b|tch to remove so i could resolder everything.


----------



## redshifter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voodoochile* 
_I tend to use the blue pair for signal, white pair for ground, then attach the shield braid to the ground shell only on the signal source end. Seems to work very well.

 I've also made some ICs with Canare's GS-6 cable- they are very nice, and the cable is simpler to work with._

 

so you used the blue pair for signal, one wire=left other wire=right? both white wires for ground, plus solder the braid to the end that plugs into the source? does this make a "one way" cable?

 thanks, brschmid, i'll check it out.

 i ordered an emmeline sr-71 yesterday, so i shoudl get started on these cables soon!


----------



## PYROTAK

star quad has 3 conductor colors. which makes it just super easy to solder up.

 i just used the two whites for ground and the light bloo for left and dark bloo for right.


----------



## sanaka

I guess that depends on which starquad there, pyrotak. The canare mini SQ I've got just has white and one shade of blue.

 Peace,
 Sanaka


----------



## MD1032

I'm interested in making my own cable and would like to use:

 -- A decent quality cable (nothing 5.00 a foot lol)
 -- A nice gold-plated 1/8" jack, straight
 -- A nice gold-plated 1/8" jack, L-plug

 I can't seem to find where I can buy any of this stuff! I can find the Switchcraft nickel-plated plugs, but not the gold ones, which I'd like to use since nickel always seems to crap up on me. The links in the original post are basically all broken. Can someone help?


----------



## brschmid

i fixed the links yesterday 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 they all worked.

 and if you read the previous page, you will see my explanation about using gold plated connectors.

 here is a link to the post
http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showp...&postcount=173


----------



## arj

The guide is very helpful. so far i have made 2 cable DIY (headphone extension and mini to mini interconnect). and the problem so far is that at some position, here is loss of sound for one side of headphone. The cable i use is balden brand.

 Anybody know how best to solve it?


----------



## MD1032

No, I don't want the gold for better electron flow (which it won't do, obviously), I want it for the corrosion resistance and durability.

 Sorry, but the links are still broken, and searching "Switchcraft 35HDNN" at marktech doesn't give any results.

 edit: For the Canare cable on the markertech site. The price is per one foot, right?


----------



## MD1032

Finally! I found the plugs. I have each of the switchcraft plugs in the cart, one of the 35HDRANN ones (the L-shaped one) and one of the 35HDNN (the straight one in there, since I want to have straight for plugging into my comp or source, and L-shaped for the amp. I'm disappointed that the markertek site doesn't carry the gold-plated ones, but oh well.

 Still need that question answered about the Canare quantities (per foot, per meter, etc?).

 The total including the two plugs and 6 somethings of the Canare Cable Star-Quad Black is only $10.64. Not bad! About 1/4 the price norm cited. Guess this is the right way to go after all!

 If someone could answer my questions and clear things up it would be great.

 edit: Oh dear, I've double-posted. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sorry.


----------



## brschmid

markerteks price is per foot, if you select that option, otherwise it is per roll

 and when you search for just 35HDNN at markertek you get your results.


----------



## MD1032

Well, I'm set then. Anything else I should get besides the cable and plugs? I have pliers, soldering iron and solder, etc.

 Unforauntely it looks like the straight plug is out until Sept. 17th, so looks like I'll have to improvise in the meantime.


----------



## PYROTAK

get the canare f-12 for the straight plug.


----------



## MD1032

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PYROTAK* 
_get the canare f-12 for the straight plug._

 

OK. I'll probably get my dad to order the parts I need in a couple days then, since there's no longer any waiting for that switchcraft plug this canare replaced.


----------



## NOTHINGness

I am going to be using this guide to make a replacement headphone cable for my Sennheiser HD497s. I am going to be using this plug, and these plugs to connect into the headphones. The problem is the website doesn't list what the cable entry for the 2.5mm jacks is, so I don't know what I should use for the cable. Does any one have an idea on what would be a good cable to use and how big of opening the 2.5mm jacks have?


----------



## Pumbaa

Can I use Cat 3 to make my cables? I plan on making an RCA to mini cable, and I have like 300 feet of Cat 3 24 gauge wire. Is this acceptable?


----------



## NOTHINGness

I don't see why you couldn't use cat3. Where you have so much lying around I would try it out and if it doesn't work desolder the cat3 and replace it with something else.


----------



## archosman

Made some XLRs to RCA today. My first DIY.... and they worked on the first try.


----------



## Pumbaa

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NOTHINGness* 
_I don't see why you couldn't use cat3. Where you have so much lying around I would try it out and if it doesn't work desolder the cat3 and replace it with something else._

 

Okay, I was just checking. I decided to make a RCA to RCA cable, as the RCA to mini was more complex. (Plus, I have no idea how to make the Y junction with my cable. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ) Got 2 gold RadioShack RCA connectors for 5 bucks and 20 minutes later I have my cable. Works fine. I guess. The only way I could've tested it was connecting my C222ES to my budget Yamaha reciever, and it seems to work fine. I can't hear any interference or anything. 

 But... is my cat3 RCA cable as good as the $30 cables sold at Best Buy, Circuit City etc? (I can't tell obviously. Not with my n00b equipment anyways. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pumbaa* 
_Okay, I was just checking. I decided to make a RCA to RCA cable, as the RCA to mini was more complex. (Plus, I have no idea how to make the Y junction with my cable. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) Got 2 gold RadioShack RCA connectors for 5 bucks and 20 minutes later I have my cable. Works fine. I guess. The only way I could've tested it was connecting my C222ES to my budget Yamaha reciever, and it seems to work fine. I can't hear any interference or anything. 

 But... is my cat3 RCA cable as good as the $30 cables sold at Best Buy, Circuit City etc? (I can't tell obviously. Not with my n00b equipment anyways. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )_

 


 you probably couldn't tell on 100K worth of equipment either. 

 what i have found in the last few weeks of research for Home theater and video cables. the only cables where there is a real quality difference is 75ohm video/digital audio cables and toslink. and even with these, cables that are over 30.00 are a waste. comparing to something that cost 3.00 with 25.00 or so there is a difference, but over that is waste and you just pay for looks


----------



## vanillawafer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pumbaa* 
_Plus, I have no idea how to make the Y junction with my cable. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Same here, could someone please explain how the Y junction for the mini to RCA's is built? I read this entire thread and couldn't find any information on it. Thanks!


----------



## Megaptera

For a Y junction in a mini-RCA, you have two options: Use four wires, doubling up the grounds at the mini, or use two full length wires for the L/R channels, and three shorter wire segments connected in a Y shape.

 Use heatshrink either way to make sure the junction stays stable, otherwise you'll have really sloppy looking cables.


----------



## vanillawafer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Megaptera* 
_For a Y junction in a mini-RCA, you have two options: Use four wires, doubling up the grounds at the mini, or use two full length wires for the L/R channels, and three shorter wire segments connected in a Y shape.

 Use heatshrink either way to make sure the junction stays stable, otherwise you'll have really sloppy looking cables._

 

Ok, I think I go that. So at the Y it's not two additional starquad segments connected to the one segment that the mini is on, its really all the same cable, but at the Y you strip off the coating and run a Blue/White coated with heatshrink & techflex to one RCA, and one Blue/White coated with heatshrink & techfliex to the other RCA. If this is right what size techflex and heatshrik is used to cover the split off Blue/White pairs that go to the RCA's? Thanks for the help!


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vanillawafer* 
_Ok, I think I go that. So at the Y it's not two additional starquad segments connected to the one segment that the mini is on, its really all the same cable, but at the Y you strip off the coating and run a Blue/White coated with heatshrink & techflex to one RCA, and one Blue/White coated with heatshrink & techfliex to the other RCA. If this is right what size techflex and heatshrik is used to cover the split off Blue/White pairs that go to the RCA's? Thanks for the help!_

 


 correct, don't i have that in the guide?

 edit: yup i do, the Mini-RCA part covers it.


----------



## Natsuiro

Can someone please tell me how to use these silver wires? http://www.takefiveaudio.com/23_awg_...ilver_wire.htm
 Would I just insert two strands into two sleeves of teflon tubing, then twist them, insert into a bigger teflon tube, add shielding? I would then use one strand as ground and one for signal into an RCA?
 Or would I twist two strands together, insert into teflon tubing, add shield, then solder the the strands to signal, then solder the shield to ground on one side, then maybe add a cap on the other side?

 ALso does anyone have experience with this? http://www.takefiveaudio.com/belden_cat5_plenum.htm
 Is it comparable to star quad?
 thx alot
 -Adam


----------



## MD1032

edit: refer to my thread here:

http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showt...296#post977296


----------



## skyskraper

with the y connector for split cables, if you are using four conductor wire, after you split off the two pairs, would you then sleeve the pairs in heat shrink?


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *skyskraper* 
_with the y connector for split cables, if you are using four conductor wire, after you split off the two pairs, would you then sleeve the pairs in heat shrink?_

 


 i did,


----------



## deunhido

Canare F-* connectors are a little cheaper at Westlake Electronic than Markertek, though there Star Quad is a few cents a foot more expensive and the only color they sell by the foot is black.

http://westlake-electronic.com/cgi-b...keywords=can-f

http://westlake-electronic.com/cgi-b...AB&SUBCAT=CAN-

 Just a customer.

 Brian


----------



## deunhido

While brschmid's guide suggests using only a stranded conductor for ground and leaving the shield unconnected and Voodoochile recommends using both a stranded conductor and, on the source side, connecting the shield to ground, Canare's catalog says something different. On page 35, they show both white conductors carrying one signal, both blue carrying the other and only the shield carrying the ground to "maximize noise rejection."

http://www.canare.com/files/Cat11_p35.pdf

 This looks like a balanced cable, but wouldn't this also apply to a stereo cable as well? As for an RCA-RCA cable, one pair should be used for signal and the shield for ground, but the other pair? Signal, ground or nothing?

 Finally, would it be better to construct a mini-RCA cable with three pieces of Star Quad so that all sections are shielded?

 Thanks,
 Brian


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *deunhido* 
_While brschmid's guide suggests using only a stranded conductor for ground and leaving the shield unconnected and Voodoochile recommends using both a stranded conductor and, on the source side, connecting the shield to ground, Canare's catalog says something different. On page 35, they show both white conductors carrying one signal, both blue carrying the other and only the shield carrying the ground to "maximize noise rejection."

http://www.canare.com/files/Cat11_p35.pdf

 This looks like a balanced cable, but wouldn't this also apply to a stereo cable as well? As for an RCA-RCA cable, one pair should be used for signal and the shield for ground, but the other pair? Signal, ground or nothing?

 Finally, would it be better to construct a mini-RCA cable with three pieces of Star Quad so that all sections are shielded?

 Thanks,
 Brian_

 

it really is up to you as far as what you want to do.

 I have had no problems with noise or shielding in any of my cables, i have been building them lately with Voodo's shielding braid method. 

 and using the braid for the ground signal would work pretty good, IMHO. 

 as far as the mini-RCA, i like my method, with the few inches that isn't shielded i don't have noise problems. and if you use multiple pieces of StarQuad or some other 4 conductor cable, you are going to have to cut off the shielding at the source end because there is no way you are going to be able to fit all the pieces into a connector.


----------



## archosman

Dammit! My 1/8 mini to 2 RCA cable I just made is out-of-phase! What did I do wrong?


----------



## deunhido

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *archosman* 
_Dammit! My 1/8 mini to 2 RCA cable I just made is out-of-phase! What did I do wrong?_

 

Swapped signal and ground connections? How do you know it's out of phase?


----------



## archosman

It sounds like it's out of phase. I can hear the difference. I'm going to tear it apart and start over...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *deunhido* 
_Swapped signal and ground connections? How do you know it's out of phase?_


----------



## brschmid

*Westlake Electronics doesn't sell gold plated switchcraft plugs*





 i ordered some on monday and they came today. even though they are shown on their website as goldplated, they aren't 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am pissed now, just a heads up.


----------



## deunhido

Did you order the 35HDBAU 3.5mm?

http://westlake-electronic.com/cgi-b...o=SWI-35HD-BAU

 Brian


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *deunhido* 
_Did you order the 35HDBAU 3.5mm?

http://westlake-electronic.com/cgi-b...o=SWI-35HD-BAU

 Brian_

 

my bad, the straight plugs are gold-plated but the 35HDRANN's are not.


----------



## HiGHFLYiN9

Switchcrafts gold plating isn't all that hot either, I just got some XLRs from them and the plating is very spotted/uneven in places. This will probably be the first time and the last time I'll use switchcraft, from now on only Neutrik and Canare.


----------



## PYROTAK

hey guys how do you make a y cable for a subwoofer.

 i have no idea what type of cable to use for this.

 i'll be using canare lv-77s for the mono part.


----------



## Moskau

If I'm going to be making an RCA to 1/4 Phone for amp to emu and wanted to use Canare SQ, could I use 2 wires as ground and 2 wires as signal (one channel) without any anomalies? 

 Or should I just use L-2T2s Single Pair Mic Cable? L-2T2S does have lower capacitance which is good for ICs.


----------



## Megaptera

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PYROTAK* 
_hey guys how do you make a y cable for a subwoofer.

 i have no idea what type of cable to use for this.

 i'll be using canare lv-77s for the mono part._

 

By "Y cable", do you mean a single-to-double-RCA adapter like this? That'd be a simple matter of connecting two RCA jacks to a single RCA plug, and adding some strain relief.

 Or do you mean a stereo-to-mono adapter? That sort of thing, I believe, is more complicated, so that you don't have the amp outputs trying to drive each other.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moskau* 
_If I'm going to be making an RCA to 1/4 Phone for amp to emu and wanted to use Canare SQ, could I use 2 wires as ground and 2 wires as signal (one channel) without any anomalies?

 Or should I just use L-2T2s Single Pair Mic Cable? L-2T2S does have lower capacitance which is good for ICs._

 

Double-ground, double-signal starquad will work, but I would try the mic cable, myself. Starquad's capacitance is really high, and I've personally moved to making pairs of single-channel RCAs with lower capacitance wire instead and have generally been much happier with the results.


----------



## Megaptera

Here's a semi-hypothetical question: When you're making a headphone cable (or extension cable), is it better to use a cable/geometry that minimizes capacitance, as if it were an interconnect, or inductance, as if it were a speaker cable?

 I would assume you would want to model it after a speaker cable, since it's going to be long and drivers sit at the end of it, but on the other hand, it'll be carrying much less power than any speaker cable would. I'm not exactly sure how inductance affects a speaker cable's signal, though, so I can't really make an educated guess here. Any thoughts?


----------



## skyskraper

i can't answer your question, but was going to pose another to cable gurus. 

 im guessing that most airlines output their sound in dual mono thru 1/8" jacks. will i have any problems if i just make a 1/4" inline jack to two mono 1/8" plug cable for my summer travelling coming up?


----------



## Seriousheadcase

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *deunhido* 
_While brschmid's guide suggests using only a stranded conductor for ground and leaving the shield unconnected and Voodoochile recommends using both a stranded conductor and, on the source side, connecting the shield to ground, Canare's catalog says something different. On page 35, they show both white conductors carrying one signal, both blue carrying the other and only the shield carrying the ground to "maximize noise rejection."

http://www.canare.com/files/Cat11_p35.pdf

 This looks like a balanced cable, but wouldn't this also apply to a stereo cable as well? As for an RCA-RCA cable, one pair should be used for signal and the shield for ground, but the other pair? Signal, ground or nothing?

 Finally, would it be better to construct a mini-RCA cable with three pieces of Star Quad so that all sections are shielded?

 Thanks,
 Brian_

 


 So what's the consensus on this? 

 I'm about to build my first headphone extension with star quad cable and need to figure out whether to connect:

 * blues and whites for the signals and shield for ground (as recommended by Canare)

 * both whites as ground and blues for the signals (as I've seen several times in this thread)

 * some other configuration


----------



## infiskik

dunno if the shiiping and handling cost thing every got resolved, i have not read all 10 pages yet (up to 4) but item cost and shipping was talked about. ill share my recent order totals from them.

 this is from markertek

 The following item(s) shipped via UPS Ground on 11/29/2004. Tracking # ################

 2 [35HDNN] Switchcraft 3.5mm 3 Conductor Plug @ $3.49/ea = $6.98
 2 [F-12] Canare Stereo Mini Plug @ $3.30/ea = $6.60

 Shipping Charge: $5.66
 Sales Tax: $0.00
 Handling and/or Misc/Credit: $4.95
 TOTAL: $24.19 

 that was for plugs, this was for cables

 The following item(s) shipped via UPS Ground on 11/29/2004. Tracking # #################

 1 [L-4E6S WE] Canare Cable Star-Quad White @ $0.36/ea = $0.36
 1 [L-4E6S GY] Canare Cable Star-Quad Grey @ $0.36/ea = $0.36
 1 [L-4E6S BK] Canare Cable Star-Quad Black @ $0.36/ea = $0.36
 1 [L-4E6S OE] Canare Cable Star-Quad Orange @ $0.36/ea = $0.36

 Shipping Charge: $5.66
 Sales Tax: $0.00
 Handling and/or Misc/Credit: $4.95
 TOTAL: $12.05 

 so the lesson learned is to order in bulk. i only bought what i did in the amounts that i did to try my hand before i inveted more that the 36 bucks i did.

 update*

 So to test my soldering skills and get some practice in before i ruin some of the more expensive cable supplies i bought, i grabbed a super cheap pair from radioshack and tooka crack at it.

 so i stripped the **** brand wire i had, now the ground for this wire was bare copper wires wrapped around the 2 inner cables, so i moved it to one side twisted it and used it that way, this wont be an issue on the star quad cable i bought. this is the cable set up not soldered.






 a dab of a solder on each wire.





 and the completed cable, which measures 6inches perfectly tip to tip.






 its decently strong and holds signal just fine and works in stereo*!

 * i had an issue with this on a cable i tried to make with out soldering


----------



## Seriousheadcase

Thanks for the pics, infiskik. That reminds me that what we're missing from this thread is more pictures of the *soldered* connections. After all, that's the hard part. More detail at this level would be very useful.


----------



## brschmid

that picture isn't good enough??????


----------



## skyskraper

i kinda get what he means, like pictures of the actual solder joints.....


----------



## infiskik

np, like i said that was just some **** cable, pics sucked too was soldering on my comp desk and didnt realized my lighting was all weak.

 anyway, i followed brschmid guide pictures exactly. so i owe it to him.

 i just got my techflex, the cable and plugs should come today. once they do im going to make 3 more cables, il post more pictures using better lighting and the good supplies


----------



## cetoole

Did Markertek stop selling the Canare connectors, I can't find the F-12 on their page anywhere.


----------



## infiskik

nope, this link should work for today

http://www.markertek.com/SearchProdu...m=F%2D09&off=2

 if not jsut search " F-12 " only and it will bring up 3 results, its the last one that say 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by


----------



## infiskik

Ok, i hate double posting but the 2 are each on their own subject and this one has pictures so i didnt want to combine them.

 So as i stated before i got my star quad cable and connectors from markertek

 finally had time tonight to bother making some cables. 

 Im not going to do the walk through like brschmid already did but i will do a pic by pic sequence, with a tiny 

 description of each.

 1. some supplies
*A.* Star Quad with Techflex on it.
*B.* 3 extra pieces of quad cable
*C.* 2 extra pieces of techflex
*D.* SwitchCraft straight plugs, ones mentioned by brschmid (plugs, barrels, and sleves)
*E.* Canare plugs, ones mentioned by brschmid.
*F.* My Kershaw onion knief w/ half serated blade (best wire stripper ever by personal opinion  )





 2. cabl stripped bout 1/2 inch. shows the rubber outside, metal braid, thread, and wires in their natural twist.





 3. Cable stripped. see picture for explanation.





 4. cable stripped and conductor wires stripped and seperated. barrels and sleves PUT ON.





 5. solder points unsnipped. marked 1 2 3, 3 is ground, look at brschmids post for other 2 (its 2am i forget)





 6. solder points snipped. still marked 1 2 3.





 7. solder points from other end of cable still 1 2 3. (i bent the prongs a tad to make it easier on myself)





 8. finished 8 inch cable, with orange star quad and grey techflex, and the switch craft plugs.





 Ok, thats the assembly steps, these next pictures go over some tips i figured out to make things a tad easier on 

 yourself, or atleast they did for me.

 1. i think brschmid went over this, but be carefull on how much of the rubber you strip off, and take the time to 

 compare the depth of the plug and its conenctors. on the first 12 inch cable i made with the grey star quad i 

 stripped a little too much rubber off and the crappy radioshack plug was not that deep. well as you can see the the 

 plug isnt deep enough for the amount of rubber i stripped, so i have this horrid gap. i plan to fix it with heat 

 shrink later.





 2. when putting the the techflex on i suggest leaving a tad off since its not expanded you can slip the barrel and 

 sleve on the cable and flex much easier. youll figure it out pretty quick since the ends of techflex tend to frey 

 quite bad when trying to slide it on the cable. Also its not the easiest thing to pull on the cable to being with, 

 but it works like a chinese finger trap, so push it together and then slide it on. And if you look in the assembly 

 pictures i have the edge of the stripped area taped with blue painters tape (doesnt leave sticky residue) to hold 

 the techfex tight so it doesnt frey while working on the inner wires.





 3. The hardest thing i had to figure out was how to tell which wires were which on the other end. I didnt want to 

 spend 80 bucks or so on a multimeter, since i didnt have one already. so i did a little improvising. I used a 

 LED(2)and 4 tiny button cell batteries(1). I stripped all 4 of the inner wires on one side of cable, and only 2 on 

 the other. i hooked the batteries to the end with the 2 exposed wires(3), then tested each wire on the other side 

 systematically with the LED. ghetto but it worked.


----------



## brschmid

nice pics, do you want me to add them to the initial post? i can host them from where all my pics are hosted from if you would like. 

 let me know.


----------



## infiskik

Your more then welcome to host them and/or add them to your orginal guide.

 10 pages back some people might not see them


----------



## skyskraper

ok i got a couple of questions regarding litz braiding cables. 

 if i want to do a stereo, should i go for: left, right, ground, ground? or: left, right, ground, shield (terminated on one end only)?? 

 then say i want a 1m cable, how much of each would i need to use, say 1.3m? how much wire does the braiding "consume"???


----------



## comabereni

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *infiskik* 
_3. The hardest thing i had to figure out was how to tell which wires were which on the other end. I didnt want to spend 80 bucks or so on a multimeter_

 

Home Depot sells a multimeter for $8.00 that is accurate enough for probably pretty much everything, especially figuring out which cable is which 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## brschmid

ok, all updated.


----------



## jerb

alot of people (incuding me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ) have been wondering about cat5. could you possible update this guide with a cat5 interconnect? im sure many ppl will find it helpful.

 btw your guide reads wonderfully, its very easy to understand and follow.


----------



## RnB180

.


----------



## Earwax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_pissed me off though, the right channel cuts in and out sometimes, if I wriggle the cable, and sometimes it doesnt, I double checked the soldering and not fraying or losts strands. Pissed me off. its either due to lack of shielding, cheap plugs or my mini moy amp._

 

I bet it's the cheap plugs. Those look a lot like the cheapies I used. (pic in the other thread) The metal is very thin and easily bent so the plug is out of round and makes intermittant contact. I replaced the one bent plug and now the cable is fine, but I'm sticking to Neutrik, etc. in the future.


----------



## Turner_Brown

I ordered the canare star quad for my first diy mini-mini cable project. I also ordered techflex....but I wasn't sure what diameter to get. I ordered red cable and black techflex...I want as much of the cable to show through as possible. I ended up getting some of the 1/4" and 3/8". Are either of these going to give me the look I want...or should I have ordered the 1/8" ?


----------



## infiskik

you should have got 1/8 to cover 1/4 cable if you want it to show through.


----------



## Turner_Brown

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *infiskik* 
_you should have got 1/8 to cover 1/4 cable if you want it to show through._

 

Crap. I figured, so I sent them an email to add on the 1/8" to the order...let's just hope I got the request in on time.


----------



## brschmid

but still some cable will show thru with 1/4


----------



## infiskik

agreed, and im still brschmids cable apprentice,

 but

  Quote:


 I want as much of the cable to show through as possible 
 

1/4 will show through a bit, and more when flexed, but he wanted the most showing possible, and thas 1/8


----------



## RnB180

I just bought some 26 awg teflon coated silver plated coper wire.

 so I just plan on making some mini to mini's and headphone extension cabling.

 I will only be required to use 3 strands correct? left, right, ground, and I can braid them the old fashion way like braiding hair?

 this is supposed to help negate interference and is a form of shielding in itself, ie. Kimber Kamble correct?

 I picked solid strand since wire that small and loos strands = nightmare.


----------



## individual6891

Hmm headphone extension cable using solid cored wire? Might be a bit stiff.. Best for headphone leads / really small mini-mini cables is to use stranded in my personal experience... it allows for a lot more flexibility. Solid for RCA interconnects ain't much of a problem as they don't move around a lot.

 Yeah you'll need at least 3 wires, though you can do a litz braid of 4 wires (LGGR).


----------



## intlplby

do you guys know where i can fine like 15" of Chrome TechFlex


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *intlplby* 
_do you guys know where i can fine like 15" of Chrome TechFlex_

 


www.cableorganizer.com
www.partsexpress.com

 type techflex in the search


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *individual6891* 
_Hmm headphone extension cable using solid cored wire? Might be a bit stiff.. Best for headphone leads / really small mini-mini cables is to use stranded in my personal experience... it allows for a lot more flexibility. Solid for RCA interconnects ain't much of a problem as they don't move around a lot.

 Yeah you'll need at least 3 wires, though you can do a litz braid of 4 wires (LGGR)._

 


 I dont know we'll see. The copper is really small, only 26 awg. should be highly flexible.


----------



## intlplby

i have an extensions cable that is made with six solid 24 gauge silver wires

 two each in three 14 gauge teflon tubes braided together and it is more than adequately flexible


----------



## RnB180

went to raido shack and decided to make use of my left over cat 3 cable. wanted to get some practice in with some cheap rat shack plugs before my neutriks arrive.

 made this tonight. Female mini to 1/4" male plug headphone extension. This is easy!


----------



## RnB180

so noob question,

 are we supposed to keep the plastic sleeve underneath the barrel to cover the solder points?

 I assume its bad to have solder points accidentally touch the metal barrels, thus the included plastic sleeve?


----------



## Syzygies

Yes, use the sleeve. To generalize, you want to be certain that the three signal paths are kept separate in use. The plastic sleeve keeps L and R from contacting the barrel, which is ground.

 When you're done, test your cable with meter to make sure you have nearly zero resistance where you're supposed to have connections, and open circuits on any other combination.

 My first few tries, my leads and solder took up enough room to put mechanical strain on the plug, and risked having them short against each other when I screwed the barrel on. It turned out that Neutrik plugs were much easier than RadioShack plugs, so I got better when I made the step up. Here's the first one I was happy with, with a lighter touch for both lead length and solder used:


----------



## Earwax

I picked up some 2 conductor shielded silver/copper cable on ebay. It's primarily for RCA interconnects, but I'm wondering if it's bad idea to also use it for 1/8 inch mini interconnects as well. Is it a really bad idea to use the braided shield as the ground conductor?


----------



## RnB180

I have a question, on the terminals is the tip the terminal farther away, and the right the one closer to the top body of the plug?

 i.e. upper terminal, lower terminal, ground

 upper terminal = right?
 lower terminal = tip or left?

 and the farthest down by the clamp is ground?

 Edit: NM got a hold of a multimeter


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_I have a question, on the terminals is the tip the terminal farther away, and the right the one closer to the top body of the plug?

 i.e. upper terminal, lower terminal, ground

 upper terminal = right?
 lower terminal = tip or left?

 and the farthest down by the clamp is ground?

 Edit: NM got a hold of a multimeter_

 

or just look at my pics on the front page, they are labeled and the same on ever connector.


----------



## RnB180

dont try to stick 22 awg wire through a netrik mini, its one of the most frustrating tasks Ive ever had to do, got 5 terminals soldered and the 6th and last one was a physical impossibility, took me 2 hours and wasted 4 neutrik minis and about 3 feet of silver teflon wire. 

 I am so frustrated. I have no use for the 22 awg teflon wire, 
 I might use it for rca interconnects, since 22 awg for a neutik is trying to fit an elephant through a needle hole.


----------



## nikongod

woot.

 i just made a ~1 ft interconect.

 time spended: about 20 min.

 money spended: about $10

 my source blew its right side driver yesterday, so i cant listen... bummar.


----------



## scottder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nikongod* 
_woot.

 i just made a ~1 ft interconect.

 time spended: about 20 min.

 money spended: about $10

 my source blew its right side driver yesterday, so i cant listen... bummar._

 

Is "spended" even a word?


----------



## RnB180

its officially a cable of the garden hose variety


----------



## Darwin022

I'm about to order a bunch of stuff... 

 After reading through 14 pages, it's safe to assume that the difference between the Canare plugs and the Switchcraft plugs as far as which is better... is personal preference?

 My list of cables to make for now is as follows:

 -mini to mini short - ipod to headphone amp (probably right angle, not sure yet though)
 -mini to mini- a few feet- for a general cable to replace the one I use either in my car or at the office (might make 2)
 - mini to RCAs - Long (~10 feet)
 - re-cable of my Grado SR125s

 So far, I've got 15 feet each of orange, blue, and white Canare star-quad (though quantity is going to change, as well as color.)
 now I'm just figuring out what connectors I'm going to need.

 How are the Canare/Swichcraft RCAs? (since I'm probably just going to order everything from markertek)

 Thanks, great thread.

 Thanks!

 edit: here's what I've got in my cart:
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by  


 

so far.... that should hold me (I've already got about 50 feet of assorted techflex) for a little while...

 damn you headfi


----------



## RnB180

oi,

 I just made my friend a balanced XLR cable useing star quad. This was the toughest soldering connector Ive ever done.

 there is no way you can terminate xlr plugs with out aligator clips. 

 this was indeed difficult 

 maybe the next few cables will be easier, this was my first xlr.


----------



## HiGHFLYiN9

Which brand of XLR were you using? I made myself a mic cable with some Switchcraft ones and I don't recall it being too bad, you could try those next time, they have a nice minimalistic look.


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiGHFLYiN9* 
_Which brand of XLR were you using? I made myself a mic cable with some Switchcraft ones and I don't recall it being too bad, you could try those next time, they have a nice minimalistic look._

 


 I used the neutriks, its a four part assembly and the the terminals are small platforms for the star quad, I twisted two leads per terminal so its starts to get difficult for placement.

 I used neutriks since those are pretty much the only brands I see used and sold around guitar center, and used on stage mics and studios.


----------



## headchange4u

Anybody ever mad a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter (for let's say ... headphones). Would a DIY adapter sound better than a stock one?


----------



## RnB180

like this one?






 or







 depending on what materials you use, use it can sound better. You definately get more for your money though.


----------



## headchange4u

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_like this one?









 depending on what materials you use, use it can sound better. You definately get more for your money though._

 

That's nice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That's what I mean. I would probably make mine a little shorter. It would be nice to be able to make an adapter almost like a stock one; one without any cable in the middle. I would think that would easier said than done.

 I have a feeling someone in this forum has already accomplished this.


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *headchange4u* 
_That's nice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That's what I mean. I would probably make mine a little shorter. It would be nice to be able to make an adapter almost like a stock one; one without any cable in the middle. I would think that would easier said than done.

 I have a feeling someone in this forum has already accomplished this. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

for that youre better off buying a one barrel adapter. what you ask is near impossible since most barrels are rear screw into, which makes back to back connections impossible. unless you find a connector that assembles the barrel from the front.

 you can also go no barrel and use heatshrink over the solder points to create a pseudo barrel, just those xin cables, but imo, it is very unattractive.


----------



## RnB180

the second pair of xlrs are much easier to terminate. I can eyeball the wire stripping proportions now and took me far less time to solder up


----------



## scottder

Anyone have recommendations for inexpensive and easy to work with RCA connectors? Good for a beginner to work with, but still of reasonable quality?

 Scott


----------



## RnB180

these look good

beginner connectors 

 never used them, but another poster here has, 
 it has a little hole to stick the ground wire through rather than soldering directly to a barrel.

 looks about as beginner as you can get


----------



## RnB180

wow got my silver LOK plugs..

 these are some of the nicest RCA connectors I have ever seen.

 theres plenty of insulation, the specs say its teflon, if so these plugs are a steal for the price.

 these are pretty darn nicely built plugs, and these were supposed to be the budget plugs? Ill post pics later,

 Only problem is I dont have the allen wrench to open them


----------



## Eric1285

I ordered those too...you think they'll be good for a subwoofer cable?


----------



## RnB180

they are good for caoxial cables, its possible but much more difficult then it should be.


----------



## RnB180

I braided the wire I will be using with the LOK plugs. I need a hexagonal wrench now.

 4 x 22 awg teflon insulated silver clad stranded copper.

 Litz braid configuration.


----------



## Darwin022

I built my first Canare + Switchcraft mini to mini cable yesterday. It was a lot easier than I expected. The only thing is that screwing the jacket on with the tech-flex under it is hard (granted, I know it's holding well). I got a Cooper Tools/Weller Soldering station from SEARS ($49) and it's making this whole thing MUCH easier than with my old crappy radio-shack iron. 

 I haven't tried with the Neutrix RCA's yet, but the plugs look like they are built really well. The spring loaded part is odd, but neat.


 I haven't decided whether or not I'm going to heat shrink any of the ones I make, depends if I can find my heat shrink. 

 I'll have pics up tomorrow.

 edit: grado 125 re-wire = YES


----------



## RnB180

wow, just got some canare f-12's in

 these plugs are humungous, compared to the netriks and 1/8" ive used these are the size of RCA interconnects.


----------



## Darwin022

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_wow, just got some canare f-12's in

 these plugs are humungous, compared to the netriks and 1/8" ive used these are the size of RCA interconnects._

 

LOL. I just made my long RCA->RCA using the Netriks pro-fi plugs, while a tiny bit of a pain to solder, overall, I really like those plugs! nice and solid. I'll get pics of that cable next week. I am pissed though and I might re-make the cable later... I was dumb and used more than I should have for another cable, leaving the piece I used for this cable about 1' too short. It reaches... barely... I guess I could move some stuff around...

 but anyway, thumbs up to the Netriks pro-fi RCA plugs


----------



## devwild

Well, apparently I am living proof that this isn't for everyone. I've read everything I could find, I've soldered before, and it just didn't seem like it should be this hard. I have spent the _entire day_ trying to make one cable work and I can't work with the wires in these tiny arse contacts, I can't solder anything worth beans, and generally speaking I've done absolutely nothing right, even though I should be set to go.

 I have spent over $70 on this project for parts for three cables, and I even got screwed out of a $7 part by pacific radio. I asked for advice on this forum in regards to parts and companies to choose, but my thread died quietly, and thus I got bit even there.

 My advice to anyone reading this tread looking for a new adventure and a cheap nice cable... unless you know exactly what you are doing... think it through, you won't save any money, you won't save any time. If you don't like the many possible levels of frustration, just buy something nice from someone who knows what they're doing. 

 Edit: toned town the frustrated whining a bit for future readers, apologies - long days and quick tongues don't mix.


----------



## skyskraper

don't get put off completely, its all about practise, practise, practise! play around with cheap radioshack parts to get a handle on it first, but believe me, it will NEVER save you money 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 diy is all about spending lots of money but understanding why stuff works the way it does and why it sounds the way it does


----------



## RnB180

DIY is never really cheap, thats a misconception.

 as mentioned earlier

 cost of shipping parts tools experience and time will cost far more then a single cable.

 DIY however is good for experience and will save money in the long run. If you just want to make 1-2 cables to save money, chances are youll spend more money on tools, materials, shipping and a whole lot of time more then just buying them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 if you want to recable every single component in your home theater and portable and plan to use custom lengths then DIY will save you money 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I got into cable assembly when I liked the look of ZU cables but didnt want to spend that much money. So I made my own with better plugs and parts


----------



## devwild

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_DIY however is good for experience and will save money in the long run. If you just want to make 1-2 cables to save money, chances are youll spend more money on tools, materials, shipping and a whole lot of time more then just buying them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I should clarify, I wasn't actually expecting to save money on these couple cables, though I do have most of the tools handy, so the cost wasn't too bad for the output. I was hoping (and still hoping, but I'm really frustrated after 8 hours with nothing to show but a knuckle burn) to gain a little experience from this project to continue doing more in the future.

 Honestly, a big part of the problem here is just me. My hands tend to shake too much to solder without a firm surface like a PCB. Tinning wires has always been difficult for me but trying to work with these jacks, very small usable lengths of wire, and higher quality solder is turning out to be flat out impossible. I'm thinking of having a little alcohol to maybe steady my hands a little before trying again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You live and learn, but this has just been one frustrating endeavor for me.


----------



## devwild

Well, with a different tip for a little better control, heat shrink helping keep a solid ground on one end, and a little hard lemonade, I have a functional and stable 6' mini-mini extension (calrad jacks). 

 *sigh of relief*

 Sorry for venting on here but maybe it will prepare someone else for the possible frustration. 

 Luckilly the other two cables will be 1/4" switchcraft jack based, so the soldering should be a bit easier. But I think after that, that will be my last DIY cable for a bit. Well, maybe speaker wires, but those actually are easy.

 dev*


----------



## devwild

Speaking of speaker wires, have you guys ever seen any nice quality banana clips that are angled 90 degrees? I ask because the terminals on my ascends (and many speakers) are angled upwards, and if I were to make a heavy diy cable out of 4s11, for appearance and stress I would prefer to have the cable drape down from the connector rather than arch out.

 That is something I've actually been thinking about for a while, I just have a bad habit of starting with the harder stuff.


----------



## RnB180

what kind of binding posts do the ascends use, are they not strong enough?

 only kind of angled bananas ive seen look like these and there are clones out there too

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=093-541


 from what I know there are no right angle banana plugs, Your best bet would be spades.


 spades would slide into the binding posts with no stress.
 but Ive been using the 4s11 on my speakers for quite some time with no stress to the plugs. 











 I can actually situate the cable so that its supports most of the weight upon itself


----------



## devwild

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_what kind of binding posts do the ascends use, are they not strong enough?

 only kind of angled bananas ive seen look like these and there are clones out there too_

 

Oh, no, the binding posts are fine (the speakers in general are great 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




), this is mainly a consideration of appearence. 

 Thanks for the info though.


----------



## audiomortis

ok, I read as much of that as I possibly could at work. and I've got a few questions.

 I've done a lot of XLR and 1/4" stuff as I'm a musician. I'm now doing more and more mini and rca stuff. I'm looking into doing some more fancy stuff....

 Where does one get silver plated wire? I see people actually buying bare wire, then I assume they sleeve it themself.... how/what? What other types of wire are out there other than an assembled wire like starquad? what kind of fancy assembled cable can I get?

 how do you know what is a good deal for an end or a cable? I use a lot of starquad.... pretty much everything is starquad for me, but I want to play with more. I use mostly cannare and neutrix ends, but I would like to see what else I can get that is LESS than $10/pair.

 I've read about people putting "cotton filters" in their cables and I'm curious about this.

 If I were to make a mono cable with starquad, is it better to use two 2/+:2/- or 1/+:3/- or 3/+:1/- ?


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiomortis* 
_ok, I read as much of that as I possibly could at work. and I've got a few questions.

 I've done a lot of XLR and 1/4" stuff as I'm a musician. I'm now doing more and more mini and rca stuff. I'm looking into doing some more fancy stuff....

 Where does one get silver plated wire? I see people actually buying bare wire, then I assume they sleeve it themself.... how/what? What other types of wire are out there other than an assembled wire like starquad? what kind of fancy assembled cable can I get?

 how do you know what is a good deal for an end or a cable? I use a lot of starquad.... pretty much everything is starquad for me, but I want to play with more. I use mostly cannare and neutrix ends, but I would like to see what else I can get that is LESS than $10/pair.

 I've read about people putting "cotton filters" in their cables and I'm curious about this.

 If I were to make a mono cable with starquad, is it better to use two 2/+:2/- or 1/+:3/- or 3/+:1/- ?_

 


 You can get teflon wire from ebay, type silver teflon in the search,
 star quad, silver plated copper and pure silver are the main wires used.
 you can get the canare and neutriks for about $3-5 are markertek.com
 I dont know what the cotton fillers are for, I believe they stemmed from a DIY cable project from vanhaus
 possible to retain geometry?

 the site claims

  Quote:


 "* Fine gauge (28 ga) cotton-insulated silver wire to minimize skin-effect/time-smear and dielectric absorption, and maximize vibration dampening" 
 


 regarding star quad soldering


 Some people say more then one ground is bad, and they connect two at the source and 1 at the destination and the other hanging. I use 2 and 2. But I have used larger guage signal leads and smaller guage ground before, like my subwoofer cable. also making xlr cables, would create a much larger guage and less resistance when you solder the shield to the "1" terminal and dual leads to the hot and cold, so I dont see why there should be a big difference what ever way you pick. Homegrownaudio recommends 2/2 configuration for their silver interconnects.


----------



## JWFokker

I thought the cotton was used to reduce microphonics. I'm no expert though so don't take my word for it.


----------



## audiomortis

so, if you buy individual wires, how do you end up with one cable? do you just braid them together and leave them bare? I see this sometimes, but I think I would rather have it in a nice jacket.


----------



## RnB180

the teflon wire comes with its own insulation, then you can do standard tri braid (like braiding hair) and use a multimeter to connect gourn, left, right.

 or you can do litz braid for rca y-splitter 2=ground 1=left 1=right

 you would then use flex expandable sleeving and cover it up.


----------



## audiomortis

do you have a quick link for this "litz braid"?


 I'm also wondering if I even have any gear that's worthy of such expensive cables and ends. I mean, fancy ends are damn pricey.


----------



## RnB180

there is a tutorial online here, try a search, I dont know the link off the top of my head.

 its all words though and confusing, i was thinking about making a picture turorial for newbies, since its a lot easier to see pics.

 never got around to it though.


----------



## audiomortis

yeah, I would really like to see that.

 what about for speaker wire? one pair of my speakers could use a little brightening and I thought that experimenting with some silver wire might help a little. My plan is to twist them together with a powerdrill (that's how I do it with car stuff anyway). Is this wire to fragile for that? is there a better way?


----------



## skyskraper

i really hate the fact that its so hard to find anything on the internet!


----------



## devwild

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *skyskraper* 
_i really hate the fact that its so hard to find anything on the internet!



_

 

Heh. We have an arrangement in our office where when a stupid question is asked... If it's on page 1 of Google, you get hit once, if it's the first result, you get hit twice.


----------



## audiomortis

well, i looked through all the links in the first page and I didn't see a good picture of a litz braid.

 so, yeah, I still would like to see a picture tutorial if somebody did that.


----------



## skyskraper

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *devwild* 
_Heh. We have an arrangement in our office where when a stupid question is asked... If it's on page 1 of Google, you get hit once, if it's the first result, you get hit twice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

with us its if its on page one you have to buy the first two rounds at the pub 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 oh and audio mortis, just read the article twice and it starts to make sense. 

 far left over the two in the middle and then under the right. repeat to infinity.


----------



## audiomortis

wow, you just condenced a whole page of junk into a sentance.... nice.


----------



## grawk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *skyskraper* 
_oh and audio mortis, just read the article twice and it starts to make sense. 

 far left over the two in the middle and then under the right. repeat to infinity. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's a great description. Wow, it's easy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *audiomortis* 
_well, i looked through all the links in the first page and I didn't see a good picture of a litz braid.

 so, yeah, I still would like to see a picture tutorial if somebody did that._

 


 litz braid


----------



## The Monkey

Total newb here, so forgive my ignorance.

 The tutorial up front looks great and mechanically it makes sense to me how to solder the connections, etc. 

 Where I get confused is the order in which you are supposed to put on the covers, sleeves, and techflex. Do I put on the techflex and cover before soldering? If someone could give me a step-by-step idea of this process, I'd really appreciate it.


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* 
_Total newb here, so forgive my ignorance.

 The tutorial up front looks great and mechanically it makes sense to me how to solder the connections, etc. 

 Where I get confused is the order in which you are supposed to put on the covers, sleeves, and techflex. Do I put on the techflex and cover before soldering? If someone could give me a step-by-step idea of this process, I'd really appreciate it._

 


 techflex>barrel>solder>screw barrel to tip


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_techflex>barrel>solder>screw barrel to tip_

 

Awesome, thanks so much. And just to confirm: I have some extra CAT 5 data cable lying around that I used for my PC/Router, etc. I can use that, correct?


----------



## RnB180

Ive used a cat 3 cable before, I dont see why not.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_Ive used a cat 3 cable before, I dont see why not._

 

I just checked your gallery. Beautiful stuff. I hope to start my first mini-to-mini in a couple of weeks. I noticed that you heat shrink over your barrels where it meets the techflex. Is there a technical reason for this approach or is it just preference?

 Thanks!


----------



## RnB180

.


----------



## devwild

Curious, aside from braiding your own, has anyone found another cable for headphone extensions, minis, etc, that people have been particularly happy with which is smaller than standard starquad? I'm looking for smaller options that maintain durability, and most, if not all of the quality.

 Thanks,
 dev*


----------



## RnB180

have you tried mini star quad? Ill be getting some in tomorrow from markertek, I want make some minis with it


----------



## devwild

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_have you tried mini star quad? Ill be getting some in tomorrow from markertek, I want make some minis with it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm new to this, I haven't tried much at all. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Good point though, I should have thought of that. Maybe I'll get some just to test it with a mini-mini if I buy some speaker wire.


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_have you tried mini star quad? Ill be getting some in tomorrow from markertek, I want make some minis with it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

i have used the mini for a few cables, it works very nice. 
 I am happy with all the cable i have, so i haven't tried anything else in a long time, Epecially since my home theater was switched to almost all optical cables.


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *devwild* 
_Speaking of speaker wires, have you guys ever seen any nice quality banana clips that are angled 90 degrees? I ask because the terminals on my ascends (and many speakers) are angled upwards, and if I were to make a heavy diy cable out of 4s11, for appearance and stress I would prefer to have the cable drape down from the connector rather than arch out.

 That is something I've actually been thinking about for a while, I just have a bad habit of starting with the harder stuff. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

unless you are changing connections often, you will get *better* signal to your speakers if you don't use banana plugs. a little google search would prove this i think, many articles on it.


----------



## Eric1285

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brschmid* 
_unless you are changing connections often, you will get *better* signal to your speakers if you don't use banana plugs. a little google search would prove this i think, many articles on it._

 

What kind of termination do you suggest then? A bare one? My Onkyo receiver only takes bare or banana plugs. I wish it would take spades, but it doesn't.


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Eric1285* 
_What kind of termination do you suggest then? A bare one? My Onkyo receiver only takes bare or banana plugs. I wish it would take spades, but it doesn't._

 


 bare wire would be best, some people like to tin it to inhibit oxidation. best signal transfer is bare wire, when it oxidizes, you cut and restrip. tinning however introduces a second foreign metal though. bare wire I presume un tinned would probably be the best. Oxidized speaker wire sounds like crap.

 bare wire however is pain to connect and disconnect and when You start getting into larger guage wire, shorting caused by strand jumping becomes a danger if you are not careful.

 spades would be the next step for best connectors, it provides the most contact surface compared to bananas.

 bananas win in the ease of connecting and disconnection. bananas unlike the other connectors are plug and play.

 I use vampire wire bananas for my home set up


----------



## Eric1285

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_bare wire would be best, some people like to tin it to inhibit oxidation. best signal transfer is bare wire, when it oxidizes, you cut and restrip. tinning however introduces a second foreign metal though. bare wire I presume un tinned would probably be the best. Oxidized speaker wire sounds like crap.

 bare wire however is pain to connect and disconnect and when You start getting into larger guage wire, shorting caused by strand jumping becomes a danger if you are not careful.

 spades would be the next step for best connectors, it provides the most contact surface compared to bananas.

 bananas win in the ease of connecting and disconnection. bananas unlike the other connectors are plug and play.

 I use vampire wire bananas for my home set up 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/RnBaudio/friend.jpg[/ig][/i]
 [/td] [/tr] [/table]


Yeah, I have banana plugs from HGA. I have no idea how to terminate them, but I'm not gonna worry about that yet tonight. Gonna make some other cables first. The speaker cable will wait until tomorrow or next week._


----------



## devwild

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_bananas win in the ease of connecting and disconnection. bananas unlike the other connectors are plug and play._

 

I like Plug and Play. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And on my home setup I certainly can't tell the difference, and really don't like messing with bare wire. 

 Nice rig btw RnB


----------



## Eric1285

Hey, how would I solder the connectors for a subwoofer interconnect? I'm going to use 2 Canare F-10's as the connectors and some LV-77 as the wire. Do I just solder the wire to the signal part, and the braided shield as the ground?


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Eric1285* 
_Hey, how would I solder the connectors for a subwoofer interconnect? I'm going to use 2 Canare F-10's as the connectors and some LV-77 as the wire. Do I just solder the wire to the signal part, and the braided shield as the ground?_

 


 should work fine.


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Eric1285* 
_Hey, how would I solder the connectors for a subwoofer interconnect? I'm going to use 2 Canare F-10's as the connectors and some LV-77 as the wire. Do I just solder the wire to the signal part, and the braided shield as the ground?_

 

yes, if you want you can disconnect the shiled at one end to prevent humming from ground loops? I think direction sub cables has the ground connected on the source end. 

 can someone confirm this?


----------



## Eric1285

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_yes, if you want you can disconnect the shiled at one end to prevent humming from ground loops? I think direction sub cables has the ground connected on the source end. 

 can someone confirm this?_

 

Hm, would be nice to know for sure. You're that disconnecting one end will prevent humming though?


----------



## Eric1285

Finished making my second cable today. Yestarday I made a 1/4 plug > mini cable. Don't have anything to test it with yet, but my multimeter says everything is connected correctly. I used green Canare starquad with white techflex, a Canare F-12 connector and a Neutrik right angle 1/4 plug. 

 Today I made my subwoofer interconnect. I used two Canare F-10 RCA connectors and red Canare LV-77 wire with white techflex. I tried doing the whole disconnecting the ground braid from the source end, but this caused a really loud humming in my subwoofer and no signal was being sent through. I ended up connecting the braided shield as the ground on both ends, and this eliminated the humming. Strange that the supposed solution to humming actually caused it. I did try to have the non grounded plug connected to the subwoofer as well, but that didn't work either. I haven't had time to test out the cable really, other than ensuring that it works. I'll probably get a chance to do some real testing next week.

 Also next week, I'll be making my first biwire speaker cables. I'm making a pair of these to go from my Onkyo TX-SR501 to my Klipsch RB-35's. I'll be using Canare 4s11 wire and banana plugs and spades from HGA. These will be by far the most costly of my projects (which is why I saved them for last, since I wanted to "practice" on my other two cables first). I'm not quite sure how to terminate the spades and banana plugs, so I'll probably end up making a thread with pictures next week.

 I noticed I've been using a bit much solder...I think I'm relying on it too much to make my connections. I've got to work on getting smaller joints that allow the wire to make better contact with the solder points. I'll probably practice some more before I attempt my biwire cables.

 Overall, I'm very pleased with my results. Sure, the soldering was a bit sloppy, but I'm using a crappy iron and crappy solder. The cables work (or at least one of them does) and they look very nice. My friends have already started to ask me to make cables for them. They take about 2 hours each, mostly because I messed up a few times and because the solder joints are pretty hard to get right with crappy radio shack solder. I also managed to burn myself in the process, but hey, that's my own stupidity. I'll post pics in the gallery later this weekend.


----------



## brschmid

even though you were just making a sub-cable, you still need a signal and a ground hooked up (in this case your ground was the shielding) so your sub was seeing part of the signal and that produced the humming.


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Eric1285* 
_Finished making my second cable today. Yestarday I made a 1/4 plug > mini cable. Don't have anything to test it with yet, but my multimeter says everything is connected correctly. I used green Canare starquad with white techflex, a Canare F-12 connector and a Neutrik right angle 1/4 plug. 

 Today I made my subwoofer interconnect. I used two Canare F-10 RCA connectors and red Canare LV-77 wire with white techflex. I tried doing the whole disconnecting the ground braid from the source end, but this caused a really loud humming in my subwoofer and no signal was being sent through. I ended up connecting the braided shield as the ground on both ends, and this eliminated the humming. Strange that the supposed solution to humming actually caused it. I did try to have the non grounded plug connected to the subwoofer as well, but that didn't work either. I haven't had time to test out the cable really, other than ensuring that it works. I'll probably get a chance to do some real testing next week.

 Also next week, I'll be making my first biwire speaker cables. I'm making a pair of these to go from my Onkyo TX-SR501 to my Klipsch RB-35's. I'll be using Canare 4s11 wire and banana plugs and spades from HGA. These will be by far the most costly of my projects (which is why I saved them for last, since I wanted to "practice" on my other two cables first). I'm not quite sure how to terminate the spades and banana plugs, so I'll probably end up making a thread with pictures next week.

 I noticed I've been using a bit much solder...I think I'm relying on it too much to make my connections. I've got to work on getting smaller joints that allow the wire to make better contact with the solder points. I'll probably practice some more before I attempt my biwire cables.

 Overall, I'm very pleased with my results. Sure, the soldering was a bit sloppy, but I'm using a crappy iron and crappy solder. The cables work (or at least one of them does) and they look very nice. My friends have already started to ask me to make cables for them. They take about 2 hours each, mostly because I messed up a few times and because the solder joints are pretty hard to get right with crappy radio shack solder. I also managed to burn myself in the process, but hey, that's my own stupidity. I'll post pics in the gallery later this weekend._

 


 I think the ground is supposed to be connected at the source and and disconnected at the destination. You had it backwards. Its supposed to prevent ground loops, someone correct me if im wrong thanks!

 I dont use anything special, for the longest time I used a y split from the lfe pre out and two rg-59 coax for my dual subs. Now I just use a dual lead teflon cable twist 22 awg leads for the signal and wrap the ground around the cable with a single 22 awg cable. and daisy chain the line out on the first sub with a shielded teflon silver plated cable to the second sub.

 on my sub cables ground is connected at both ends.


----------



## individual6891

No. A subwoofer interconnect is just basically a phono to phono, you still need ground and signal connected at both ends. If you are using 2 core wire (egunbalanced phono cable etc) you can use 1 for signal and 1 for ground, or if you have 4 core (eg starquad/mic cable etc), you use 2 for signal and 2 for ground.

 If you have shielding around the cable (which isn't necessary unless you're hooking it around loadsa noisy equipment like tellies etc) then you connect the *shielding* to ground at one end only. It also doesn't matter which end you connect the shielding to, source or otherwise. It doesn't matter if you connect the shielding at both ends, it'll still work, but it's not preferred due to another ground path with different resistance.


----------



## waltermeyer

I got an earcandy mini and it says its directional. What is different inside between that and a normal one?


----------



## Eric1285

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *individual6891* 
_No. A subwoofer interconnect is just basically a phono to phono, you still need ground and signal connected at both ends. If you are using 2 core wire (egunbalanced phono cable etc) you can use 1 for signal and 1 for ground, or if you have 4 core (eg starquad/mic cable etc), you use 2 for signal and 2 for ground.

 If you have shielding around the cable (which isn't necessary unless you're hooking it around loadsa noisy equipment like tellies etc) then you connect the *shielding* to ground at one end only. It also doesn't matter which end you connect the shielding to, source or otherwise. It doesn't matter if you connect the shielding at both ends, it'll still work, but it's not preferred due to another ground path with different resistance._

 

Yes, the LV-77 has braided shielding. That's what I used as my ground wire. I tried connecting it at the source end and leaving it disconnected on the subwoofer end. This didn't work. I tried it the other way around as well, and this also produced humming. The only way I could get it to work was to connect the braided shielding as a ground on both ends.


----------



## individual6891

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Eric1285* 
_Yes, the LV-77 has braided shielding. That's what I used as my ground wire. I tried connecting it at the source end and leaving it disconnected on the subwoofer end. This didn't work. I tried it the other way around as well, and this also produced humming. The only way I could get it to work was to connect the braided shielding as a ground on both ends._

 

and

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *individual6891* 
_A subwoofer interconnect is just basically a phono to phono, you still need ground and signal connected at both ends._


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *individual6891* 
_and






_

 

 Quote:


 even though you were just making a sub-cable, you still need a signal and a ground hooked up (in this case your ground was the shielding) so your sub was seeing part of the signal and that produced the humming.


----------



## chrisj8221

What size of flex should i use if I am wanting to put three LV-77 cables together in a sleeve? yep, I'm considering on making a component video cable.

 Thanks


----------



## The Monkey

Cable newbie here trying to make my first interconnect and I'm finding it a bit more difficult than I expected. Specifically, I'm finding it very difficult to work with the Star Quad, getting the stranded wire through the appropriate holes on the Switchcraft RA connectors.

 Any suggestions?


----------



## RnB180

when you trim the leads, trime the right channel shorter then the left, and the ground the shortest. each lead should be a different length.

 twist and tin the wires before inserting through the hole

 here are some examples I made right now for reference.


----------



## The Monkey

As always, thanks for the help RnB180.


----------



## RnB180

.


----------



## RnB180




----------



## The Monkey

If I'm going to heathshrink over the barrels, is it a good idea to heathshrink underneath, as well?


----------



## audiomortis

So, I've been making RCA cables using Canare GS-6 and getting great results. So, I tried making one using StarQuad. One wire per point, so the single length of starquad is a stereo rca cable. I tried it without using the braided sheild at all, and was getting some pretty angry humming out of it. So, I tried hooking the braided sheild up at one end of one chanel to make the sheild an active/directional sheild and hooked that end up to the reciever (the other end is on a turntable). Well, I think it helped, but it's hard to say as the noise was dependant on how the cable was possitioned (only the leads really), and I can't say that it was in exactly the same position. I configured it as one white and one blue for each connector, and I've tested them with a multi meter to make sure all the wires are going to the right places.

 So, is this cable doomed to hum because it's got a couple inches on either end of unsheilded leads or is there something else I can do?


----------



## RnB180

I heatshrink under the barrels so that bits of the shield doesnt touch the ground and hold the flex together, Im already using the two blue wires for ground.

 I dont think there is anything wrong with going commando and not give the connector underwear. Ive had no problems when the shield touches the clamp along with the ground and the pics at the beginning of the thread dont use shrink either.

 I just use since its a cleaner finish and IMO sloppy if you let bits of the shield touch the clamp when you already have ground connected.


----------



## Tech2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* 
_Cable newbie here trying to make my first interconnect and I'm finding it a bit more difficult than I expected. Specifically, I'm finding it very difficult to work with the Star Quad, getting the stranded wire through the appropriate holes on the Switchcraft RA connectors.

 Any suggestions?_

 

You should tin* the wires first. This will hold the individual strands together.

 *To tin the wires: Put some liquid solder flux on the stripped wire. Load up your soldering iron tip with some molten solder and touch it to the stripped wire. The solder should wick its way into the wire and "solder" the strands together.

 Now you can bend the tinned wire into a hook shape and push it easily through the hole in the terminal. Bend the wire around the terminal (like the letter "J") to get a good mechanical connection, snip off any excess wire and solder the wire to the terminal.

 Edit: Oops, RnB180 already answered your question.


----------



## The Monkey

Hey gang,

 Forgive me if these are dumb questions, but what type of cable would I need to use in order to actually hear a big difference? Is it possible to do this with an interconnect, or do I need to bite the bullet and do a headphone recable to make much of a difference? Also, is it possible to do this without having to Litz braid (dunno if I have the patience 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ). 

 Thanks!


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* 
_Hey gang,

 Forgive me if these are dumb questions, but what type of cable would I need to use in order to actually hear a big difference? Is it possible to do this with an interconnect, or do I need to bite the bullet and do a headphone recable to make much of a difference? Also, is it possible to do this without having to Litz braid (dunno if I have the patience 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ). 

 Thanks!_

 


 from my personal experience Ive heard differences from switching interconnects. the star quad interconnect IMO will sound better then the Cardas HPI, and rightfully so since the star quad is made of better materials.

 you can also hear a difference I guess witha recable, but I didnt, hear any difference with my Grados, but the SR-80s are pretty much maxed out with the cables it comes with.

 if you are braiding your own headphone recable you have to do litz. I guess you can be lazy and twist, but then it would pretty sloppy, whether or not there is an audio benfit that is audible between both methods I wouldnt know.


----------



## The Monkey

Thanks RnB. I guess what I meant regarding Litz is: is there a cable that is sonically superior to the Star Quad cable spec'd in the How To or is the next step to get wire and Litz braid?


----------



## Ronin

any recommendations for female mini plugs? i would like to make a few headphone extension cables and i plan to use the Canare F-12s on one end. what should i use on the other end? i would to order everything from markertek for the convenience.



 thanks,
 -ronin


----------



## mrdon

Pictured is a 4-way (Litz?) braided cable composed of 20 AWG Silver plated Teflon wire (burned in for a week powering a 60 watt light bulb) and terminated on both ends with gold plated Radio Shack 3.5mm plugs. Yeah, I know the Rat Shack/Radio Shaft comments will ensue from this forum. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 However, the plugs are not that bad actually. In fact, they feel and look pretty substantial especially in comparison to Neutrik's straight mini. BTW, all the connections are soldered using silver bearing solder.


----------



## pburke

I posted this in the Asylum a while ago - forgot to put it here. The recipe is a modified Venhaus Silver IC, using cotton instead of a Teflon core. Takes a few hours to make, but holds its own against some very expensive and big-$ ICs, using Eichmann plugs (tough to solder - if you've never worked with these, this may give you some important pointers, too)

http://didnt.doit.wisc.edu/audio/cab...r_ic/index.htm


 Peter


----------



## Nixie

I built the teflon version. You may think cotton is a good idea, but you should realize that even with it wrapped, air humidity will reach it (it goes through many polymers you may have thought airtight). The dielectric constant of water is quite high. Since cotton absorbs water not only between fibers but also inside the fibers (that's why cotton clothes take much longer to dry compared to wool and synthetics), there is going to be enough water within the cotton to make it an inferior dielectric to teflon, or even polyethylene. Unless you live in the desert, that is.


----------



## nice-biscuit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itza2mer* 
_Correct._

 

Anyone know where I can get tech flex from?


----------



## ayt999

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nice-biscuit* 
_Anyone know where I can get tech flex from?_

 

techflex online dealers page.

 I usually buy either from cableorganizer.com or wirecare.com depending on availability / pricing, but both are great companies IMO.


----------



## skyskraper

i dunno about the uk, but in oz it isnt easy to come by, in the past i've usually just ordered from cable organizer or wire care 

 you should also check out pc case suppliers, mountain or motorbike shops, etc coz ive found they have a bit of it, but not in the range that the aforementioned sites have them. the vantec cable sleeving kits are quite cheap downunder and come with heaps of the stuff.


----------



## nice-biscuit

Thanks I will check those suppliers out. Everything else I think I can source.


----------



## pburke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nixie* 
_I built the teflon version. You may think cotton is a good idea, but you should realize that even with it wrapped, air humidity will reach it (it goes through many polymers you may have thought airtight). The dielectric constant of water is quite high. Since cotton absorbs water not only between fibers but also inside the fibers (that's why cotton clothes take much longer to dry compared to wool and synthetics), there is going to be enough water within the cotton to make it an inferior dielectric to teflon, or even polyethylene. Unless you live in the desert, that is._

 

12 months now, and the cotton version still totally outperforms the Teflon version (which I built before, and still have)

 there's not that much cotton to begin with - the core of the cord I used is some sort of poly fiber, wrapped in a thin coat of cotten mesh fabric

 Peter


----------



## jays

Jay


----------



## spinali

.


----------



## brschmid

hello all, havent' been around much, been busy with other things in life, and when i visit here ofter i always seem to spend a lot of money......

 keep on keepin on


----------



## VR6ofpain

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_from my personal experience Ive heard differences from switching interconnects.

 you can also hear a difference I guess witha recable_

 

I agree with this. I recabled my portaPro's with some SCCw/T in a 4 wire litz braid. The sound definately changed. Whether it was better or not I never really decided (couldn't switch back and forth). What I could compare was what they sounded like when I listened to them daily for several months, and even right before I did the recable, to what they sounded like after the recable and for the next month or so.[this might just be a run-on sentence]

 To me they seemed to have a boost in highs...no as much response, but almost as if they had someone boost up an EQ around maybe 9kHz or something. They also seemed to have lost a little of their bass (which with the portaPro's was a good thing). Overall I am not sure which I like better. Though I am quite sure the sound did change. I even put the old portaPro cable on my KSC-35's and compared those to the recabled portaPros. Again, they sound different...though I for some reason almost want to say...the KSC-35's sound better! I believe they are the same driver too. Though I recently tried the portaPros with some Grado bowls and then some reverse Senn HD414 pads. I like the portaPro's w/HD414 pads over the KSC's. Makes them sound quite nice actually.

 Though this case might be unique because obviously the OEM cable on the portaPro's was definately low-fi stuff...

 Here:
http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showt...=129714&page=3


----------



## LoafOfBread

This guide was quite useful in making my cheap litz-braided copper 1/8"->RCA, but I have a few questions about more permanent solutions.
 Does the techflex do anything more than make the cable look nice? I am thinking of using the Canare mic cable linked in the first post to make some extension cords and interconnects, and wouldn't mind saving some time and money that way. Besides, I dont really mind the bare rubber look at all, I bet it would go quite well with my current hardware if I can find it in flat black.
 Also, what size (like diameter) heatshrink should I use to ensure a good fit on the Canare cable? What about to cover the two twisted wires that will have to split off to make a Y for a RCA interconnect?


----------



## ScubaSteve87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LoafOfBread* 
_This guide was quite useful in making my cheap litz-braided copper 1/8"->RCA, but I have a few questions about more permanent solutions.
 Does the techflex do anything more than make the cable look nice? I am thinking of using the Canare mic cable linked in the first post to make some extension cords and interconnects, and wouldn't mind saving some time and money that way. Besides, I dont really mind the bare rubber look at all, I bet it would go quite well with my current hardware if I can find it in flat black.
 Also, what size (like diameter) heatshrink should I use to ensure a good fit on the Canare cable? What about to cover the two twisted wires that will have to split off to make a Y for a RCA interconnect?_

 


 Try some 1/4" 3 to 1 heatshrink for the leads that should take care of it for sure. I made the mistake of using 3/8" 2 to 1 heatshrink on my mini to RCA cable leads. I didn't really think about the math before hand. 3/8->3/16 on top of 1/8 techflex.......


----------



## finallyfree

These connectors seem to work well. If I'm not mistaken they have won awards. I have the gold and platinum.

http://www.scosche.com/efx.aspx?CategoryID=60


----------



## Oski

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *finallyfree* 
_These connectors seem to work well. If I'm not mistaken they have won awards. I have the gold and platinum.

http://www.scosche.com/efx.aspx?CategoryID=60_

 

They look like the same connectors Zu uses for their cables.


----------



## finallyfree

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Oski* 
_They look like the same connectors Zu uses for their cables._

 

Yes, they do look a lot a like. I don't have any experience with comparing the two on the inside.


----------



## finallyfree

Cable.... If you want to use CAT cable then CAT6 may be the way to go.

 Quote from a CAT6 definition:

 CAT-6 provides higher performance than CAT-5e and features more stringent specifications for crosstalk and system noise. Using all Category 6 components throughout the signal path should result in a Power-Sum Attenuation-to-Crosstalk Ratio (PS-ACR) that is greater than or equal to zero at 200 MHz.

 I don't know if it's just the manufacturer who made the cable but the CAT6 cable I've seen (and I've only seen one brand) has silver coated copper wire and not plain copper.

 Also the twisted pairs on the CAT6 I've seen are twisted much tighter. I think brains twisted tighter work better too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 edited to add:
 this is what's on the cable: AVAYA-D SYSTIMAX 1074E 4/24 (UL) CM ER40032


----------



## AudioNoob

thanks for the guide, kudos.

 few questions

 1)does using a conductor carbon flex help with shielding
 2) do you mind if I 1/8 shrink my individual connections


----------



## Fanatic

I would like to make my own cables, and have read all 19 pages of this thread(my eyes hurt). I would just like someone with a little more experience than I to go over my list to make sure I have everything correct. I'm going to be making a 25' headphone extension cable so that I can listen/watch TV when the baby is sleeping 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and a small mini to mini cable. 

 30' of Canare Star-Quad Microphone Cable(L-4E6S BE )
 (2) Right Angle 3.5mm 3 Conductor Plug with Nickel Handle and Plug(35HDRANN )
 (1) 1/4 Stereo Phone Male with Spring Strain Relief(SP-SSP )
 (1) 1/4 Phone Female Connector(SPF )
 25' of 1/4" Techflex(082-316 )
 12mm Heatshrink(080-674 )

 I was unsure of the Techflex & Heatshrink sizes. I want to heatshrink the cable & connectors like RnB180's on this page:

http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showt...&page=13&pp=20

 Thank you for your time/assistance!


----------



## The Monkey

I think the size of the tech flex and shrink are right on the money. I think you should up the footage to account for screwups and for the fact that you'll probably want to make more. I'd go with 40 ft. of cable and 50 ft. of tech flex.


----------



## RnB180

wow, flashback,
 that was my first mini cable ever.

 I dont know much about tecnec,

 Id recommend the Neutrik 1/4" connector and switchcraft female 1/4" TRS

 that one you linked looks kind of cheap, cheap generic connectors are the last thing you want.

 Neutriks and Switchcrafts are the ONLY connectors I will use, just because they are industry standard in the music biz, and I have had nothing but good experience with them.

 The boots I use are adhesive lined, using a hair dryer IIRC. The pic you linked used some wierd cat cable I picked up at frys and sounded horrible. 

 Starquad is a nice cable to start with, but IMO the quality of the conductors and insulation are rather poor in comparison to other stuff I have worked with, sonically its pretty good but too inflexible for my tastes. Should be fine for headphone extension, but depending on the length of the mini, you might find yourself fighting with it.


----------



## Fanatic

Thanks RnB!
 If you have other cable that you think would be better, I'm all ears.

 Thanks again!


----------



## RnB180

You can try the cardas blue cable, but thats more extreme. stay with star quad for now.


----------



## Fanatic

Sorry for all the noobie questions....

 2 or 3 connector on the 1/4" Neutrik(NP3C, NP2C, & NP3C) ?

 I think I found the Switchcraft female plug your talking aboutSW131 

 I assume I want stereo(3 connector) plugs?


----------



## busta

RnB, what is your cable preference for a more flexible interconnect? I bought a few generic connectors to test out my soldering skills and I've got it down, I think that's the hard part.


----------



## RnB180

what makes star quad inflexible is the very thick pvc dielectric/insulation. and the tinned braid shield.

 The most flexible would be braided wire of your choosing, intertwining the positive and negative conductors would help provide shielding within itself.

 there are too many wire types to choose from, let alone, awg, manufacturer and so on. the fun part of cables is making one, then making another, and hearing the differences. Took me about 10-15 different wire types and a few months before I found one I was happy with 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Eventually, the wire that I was happy with cost me a several hundred dollars and followed specifications that my purpose called for from only one particular manufacturer as I thought it sounded the best out of all the others. I have 1000s of feet of wire I will never use, and piles of ebay wire I will never use, solely because its none of them meet a sound and quality I was looking for.


----------



## mishkakrisa

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tech2* 
_You should tin* the wires first. This will hold the individual strands together.

 *To tin the wires: Put some liquid solder flux on the stripped wire. Load up your soldering iron tip with some molten solder and touch it to the stripped wire. The solder should wick its way into the wire and "solder" the strands together.

 Now you can bend the tinned wire into a hook shape and push it easily through the hole in the terminal. Bend the wire around the terminal (like the letter "J") to get a good mechanical connection, snip off any excess wire and solder the wire to the terminal.

 Edit: Oops, RnB180 already answered your question. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If you don't have any flux at hand, but the solder you are using has flux in it...how do you tin the wires? Just apply solder to the wires.. Sorry am a bit confused and am total noob. Thanks in Advance, Mish!


----------



## robzy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mishkakrisa* 
_Just apply solder to the wires.. Sorry am a bit confused and am total noob_

 

Spot on. Heat up the wire and put your stick of solder onto it.

 The copper will then "soak up" the solder and the wire will be tinned.

 Rob.


----------



## mishkakrisa

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *robzy* 
_Spot on. Heat up the wire and put your stick of solder onto it.

 The copper will then "soak up" the solder and the wire will be tinned.

 Rob._

 

Thanks for that Rob! Much appreciated! Mish


----------



## mishkakrisa

Hey guys.

 I'm having trouble tinning the bit of my solder iron. Is the tip meant to be covered with solder? I've tried applying some to the tip, but by the time it's hot enough it just melts off the tip..it won't stick....What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your help guys! Btw I have already tinned most of my wires...but the heating od the copper seemed hit or miss so I thought the problem might have to do with the bit not being properly tinned...Thanks!

 All the best,
 Mish


----------



## mishkakrisa

Well I haven't solved the tinning problem but..... I just finshed my first mini to mini! AND...it works!!!!!!! WOOOOOOhoooooooo!!!!

 Only slight goof was the way I orientated the right angle plugs...made me laugh! Was so busy thinking about solder I fogot that little detail...oh well, another excuse to make more!!!
 BTW I used the RA switchcraft with the mini starquad!

 Rock on dudes!!!!

 Thanks for all the help and advice guys!!!!

 Mish


----------



## ler337

man, do your orders at markerteck.com go through right away? Ordered a couple hours ago still havent got an email, forgot to copy down order comfirmation so i can't check it on their site, and havent been charged yet...what gives.

 NM...guess it takes a day,


----------



## vleong1

Can this guide also be used for subwoofer and video cables if I use the Canare Star Quad wire? Or should I be using different wires?


 Wanting to make:
 S-Video
 Component video
 Subwoofer
 Digital Coaxial


----------



## Gabe Logan

Right now im into 2 foot long rca's and doing a trial and error thing with different materials on seeing what suits me well.Right after that i am going to do a mini to mini like mishkakrisa.


----------



## The Monkey

For those of you who make mini-to-RCAs regularly, where would you make your Y-split on a 3-foot mini-to-RCA? half way? three quarters? Thanks!


----------



## omendelovitz

Hey all, 

 I was reading one of the threads linked to this sticky where someone making an interconnect mentions soldering 2 of the 4 braids to the left channel, two of the braids to the right channel, and then using the tinned copper shielding braid for the ground connection. Is this a good idea? how can I expect the sound to change in this type of arrangement? 

 I'm also wondering if this means that I can avoid using the shielding braid on my 3 wire cable braid as one of those braids will be soldered to the grounding...

 Thanks in advance!


----------



## omendelovitz

sorry, one more question. 

 my inventory for this, my first DIY cabling is:

 F-12 connectors; 
 techflex
 braided wire (Litz? not sure came braided from the shop);
 heat shrink;
 solder and soldering tools;
 electrical multimeter;

 I've noticed that the DIY pics show a somewhat thick rubber tubing or shoe laces - do I need to be using this? why? Why not?

 Also, what in my inventory could/would work in a 'yank protection' capacity?

 thanks again everyone. Looking forward to starting this stuff!


----------



## ScubaSteve87

I thought I should post this for any newbies who want some cable tips. Frequently it is hard to get techflex to stay under a connector even if heatshrink is over, and I have no adhesive lined heat shrink......Here is what I did for some good strain relief in my most recent RCA build:

 I soldered up all the connections and got the thechflex where I wanted it. Then I just covered the entire solder joint/inside of the connector in some hot craft glue I had lying around. While its still semi pliable, I slide the connector barrel over everything and tighten it as much as I can(if at all). Then I took my soldering iron and heated up the connector barrel. After about 5 minutes, all the glue on the inside is flowing like water. Then I just grab a towel, wrap it around the barrel and screw it on, and use it to wipe off any glue that comes out. The barrel just goes on like butter, no forcing at all. Then after about 20 minutes all the glue is hard again. Not only does the tech flex not even budge at all, but the connector is solid as a rock. I yanked on it as hard as I could and nothing happened. It really solidifies the entire connection and insures that your techflex will never slip out from the connector(as has happened to me a few times)


----------



## silmaauki

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ScubaSteve87* 
_I thought I should post this for any newbies who want some cable tips. Frequently it is hard to get techflex to stay under a connector even if heatshrink is over, and I have no adhesive lined heat shrink......Here is what I did for some good strain relief in my most recent RCA build:

 I soldered up all the connections and got the thechflex where I wanted it. Then I just covered the entire solder joint/inside of the connector in some hot craft glue I had lying around. While its still semi pliable, I slide the connector barrel over everything and tighten it as much as I can(if at all). Then I took my soldering iron and heated up the connector barrel. After about 5 minutes, all the glue on the inside is flowing like water. Then I just grab a towel, wrap it around the barrel and screw it on, and use it to wipe off any glue that comes out. The barrel just goes on like butter, no forcing at all. Then after about 20 minutes all the glue is hard again. Not only does the tech flex not even budge at all, but the connector is solid as a rock. I yanked on it as hard as I could and nothing happened. It really solidifies the entire connection and insures that your techflex will never slip out from the connector(as has happened to me a few times)_

 

I use epoxy. I poor Epoxy inside the connector. 

 Same result but slightly different approaches. Epoxy is though more difficult (impossible?) to use with some connectors and you most certainly cannot repair anything after that (permanent solution). On the other hand epoxy is harder and thus the solution is ... eeh permanent. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Both solutions do as well prevent oxidation.


----------



## andrew3199

Is Thechflex only used as A decorative finish to the cable? or is there some other purpose to it.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *andrew3199* 
_Is Thechflex only used as A decorative finish to the cable or is there some other purpose to it._

 

It gives a little bit of protection to the wires underneath, but for the most part it just presents a nice-looking finshed product (IMO).


----------



## omendelovitz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* 
_It gives a little bit of protection to the wires underneath, but for the most part it just presents a nice-looking finshed product (IMO)._

 

Some people use it for strain relief, but depending on a number of factors, it may end up as only a decorative element. For the most part it can be bypassed if you use braided cable as a cage, or if you use the pre-built, encased wiring/cables...


----------



## gsteinb88

Question:
 On ebay, i see a lot of sellers selling 99.9999% silver wire 24ga. Could i use this for audio interconnects if i sleeved it, and then litz braided it?
 Example: http://cgi.ebay.com/FINE-SILVER-9999...QQcmdZViewItem
 Thanks
 -g


----------



## litlharsh

what would a mini-rca connector be used for?

 connecting a dap to a stereo receiver?


----------



## cantsleep

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *litlharsh* 
_what would a mini-rca connector be used for?

 connecting a dap to a stereo receiver?_

 

in my case,
 portable source>mini-rac>amp>headphone


----------



## litlharsh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cantsleep* 
_in my case,
 portable source>mini-rac>amp>headphone_

 

I thought sources required a mini-mini?


----------



## gsteinb88

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *silmaauki* 
_I use epoxy. I poor Epoxy inside the connector. 

 Same result but slightly different approaches. Epoxy is though more difficult (impossible?) to use with some connectors and you most certainly cannot repair anything after that (permanent solution). On the other hand epoxy is harder and thus the solution is ... eeh permanent. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Both solutions do as well prevent oxidation. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I personally use hot glue, and use a lighter to heat it up. An ash can be easily wiped off.
 -g


----------



## skyline889

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *litlharsh* 
_I thought sources required a mini-mini?_

 

Some portable headphone amps use rca interconnects on the back and some like the PA2V2 and the go-vibe use a mini cable to connect to your player, some have both connections allowing you to choose which one you prefer.


----------



## litlharsh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *skyline889* 
_Some portable headphone amps use rca interconnects on the back and some like the PA2V2 and the go-vibe use a mini cable to connect to your player, some have both connections allowing you to choose which one you prefer._

 

Thanks for clearing that up.


----------



## Computerpro3

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gsteinb88* 
_Question:
 On ebay, i see a lot of sellers selling 99.9999% silver wire 24ga. Could i use this for audio interconnects if i sleeved it, and then litz braided it?
 Example: http://cgi.ebay.com/FINE-SILVER-9999...QQcmdZViewItem
 Thanks
 -g_

 

I'm using that exact wire as we speak. I'll let you know how it sounds as soon as i figure out the trick to lizt braiding


----------



## rem7

just finished my first cable. All the pieces in this conector are much bigger than on the canare F-12.






 I think using that SwitchCraft would b better for bigginers like me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This is what the F-12 looked for me, soldering was a bitch.






 and











 Are other conector's inside parts usually that small? or are they usually big like the Switch Craft? I still have 2 more canare F12 so I'm gonna practice with those and then get some others, any recommendations? Maybe some that have longer parts. hehehe


----------



## luukas

Could someone verify if I'm doing litz braiding correctly (using Chimera Labs' instructions) before I go about making longer runs. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 The wires did come out in the correct order, so think I got this right. But I'm unsure whether I should braid more loosely?

 And uh, is there generally any point in me taking out the wires from mogami neglex? I just find the cable too stiff for really short IC's as is.

 edit:

 If someone knows where the nine hells I can find teflon insulated pure copper wire, please let me know... it's just damned silver and silver plated copper all over ebay. And tinned copper elsewhere.


----------



## Zorander

I just bought some stuff for practice: a length of 2-core shielded cable (has braids surrounding the conductors) and a variety of fe-/male 1/4" & 1/8" plugs. Question on connecting the dual-core cable: Can I solder the braiding to the ground (twisting first and then soldering) and expect it to function as shield? Or is it _strongly_ recommended to use a cable with more than 2 cores?

 Lastly, what is the purpose of 'litz braiding'?


----------



## Zorander

Also, is there a particular solder type recommended for this application? I've got some free solder provided with my soldering iron but I'm sure it's just a standard-quality stuff.


----------



## gsteinb88

IMHO, if the solder connection is good, the solder isnt going to make any audible difference. Of course, there will be purists who disagree.
 -g


----------



## brschmid

as long as you don't get a cold solder joint, the type of solder shouldn't matter


----------



## mishkakrisa

Hey guys!
 Well, I'm at it again but I have a problem...sounds sill..BUT...

 Does anyone know what the left and right solder points are on these plugs. I've searched through the posts with little luck...are they same on all min plugs? Am one confused dude.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ...These are the straight ones btw...not the RA's

 Thanks in advance for any help!
 All the best, Mish


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mishkakrisa* 
_Hey guys!
 Well, I'm at it again but I have a problem...sounds sill..BUT...

 Does anyone know what the left and right solder points are on these plugs. I've searched through the posts with little luck...are they same on all min plugs? Am one confused dude.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ...These are the straight ones btw...not the RA's

 Thanks in advance for any help!
 All the best, Mish_

 

Get a multimeter and measure for resistance.

 -Alex-


----------



## mishkakrisa

use a multimeter on the plugs? I'm talking about where to connect the left and right channel wires on the plug i.e. I'm confused which is the right channel on the plug and which is the left...ahh.. does that make sense?
 Thanks ,
 Mish


----------



## [AK]Zip

Yes use a multimeter on the plug. One on the tip on the mini itself and one on the connectors. You will be able to figure out which one is left. That would mean the other is right.

 -Alex-


----------



## mishkakrisa

Ahh very good. Was hoping someone had a picture laying about...but your method will work just as well. Thank you very much!
 Mish


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rem7* 
_






 Are other conector's inside parts usually that small? or are they usually big like the Switch Craft? I still have 2 more canare F12 so I'm gonna practice with those and then get some others, any recommendations? Maybe some that have longer parts. hehehe_

 

You might want to be careful with that plug, its looks like it might have some serious problems if not now later on. but judging from the looks of it theres a serious short problem. I suppose when you clamp the strain relief you are going to short the right channel. Here are some tips, please do not take it as insult, I only want to help you attain a cleaner termination.

 You need a hotter iron. all the joints are cold joints. Are you using rosin core solder? if not try some. The joints should be heated more so the solder melts and flows like liquid,(think terminator t1000). Dont hold the iron too long or you will melt the plastic insulation around the base of the center pin and the insulation between the ring on the finger of the connector. Try to only strip the insulation up to the solder point, this can be achieved by holding the wire near the connector before doing anything. In most cases the left channel will require a shorter strip then the right channel. Over stripping will post as a short hazard. Ground conductors can be over stripped however. Before soldering make sure there is mechanical contact. i.e. physical contact between the wire and the solder tab. Its very easy to have a floating wire, and even ifit is slightly floating, it may result in a srop of performance or reliability. If the solder becomes discoloured after holding the solder tip there for while, that means its a dry joint and you over heated the joint. I good joint is wet and shiney, with a mechanical connection. When clamping the strain relief, try not to clamp it directly unto the insulated wires..Try to solder the ground not on the platform itself, but to the side, its much easier.

 To answer your question regarding the size of the connectors, canares are the largest out there. All the other connectors are even smaller.


 What you should try practicing with are connectors with the hols through the solder tabs. Inserting the wire through the hole and ensuring mechanical contact is a lot easier with those.

 The Canare you are using, is trickey for beginners. So are the switchcraft straight connectors. What I usually do is dab a very small amount of flux on the center pin. I solder the right channel pin first, then I solder the center pin using the leverage of the cable to ensure mecahnical contact, then I solder the ground underneath the ground tab far away from the two other channels.


----------



## brschmid

pictures in first post aren't good enough?


----------



## RnB180

dp


----------



## RnB180

I have some more pics, these were some of the really early early pictures Ive had of solder points. I solder the points differently now however along with a different way of clamping and sealing. 

 please note these are very early examples. but hopefully will help you get an idea of how the solder joints should wet. evenly


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mishkakrisa* 
_Hey guys!
 Well, I'm at it again but I have a problem...sounds sill..BUT...

 Does anyone know what the left and right solder points are on these plugs. I've searched through the posts with little luck...are they same on all min plugs? Am one confused dude.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ...These are the straight ones btw...not the RA's

 Thanks in advance for any help!
 All the best, Mish_

 


 neutrik mini straight, short tab = left channel, long tab = right channel
 Switchcraft straight connector = center pin =left channel, left solder tab =right channel
 Canare straight connector = center pin =left channel, left longer pin = right channel


----------



## mishkakrisa

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brschmid* 
_pictures in first post aren't good enough?




_

 

Thanks for showing me the picture, but i did see it on the first page of this guide. I'm talking about a different connector. Thanks.


----------



## mishkakrisa

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_neutrik mini straight, short tab = left channel, long tab = right channel
 Switchcraft straight connector = center pin =left channel, left solder tab =right channel
 Canare straight connector = center pin =left channel, left longer pin = right channel_

 

Thank you very much for the help RnB!


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mishkakrisa* 
_Thanks for showing me the picture, but i did see it on the first page of this guide. I'm talking about a different connector. Thanks._

 


 pretty much all connectors are the same 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 they may not look the same, but they are the same


----------



## mishkakrisa

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brschmid* 
_pretty much all connectors are the same 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 they may not look the same, but they are the same_

 

I did not know that...thanks.


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mishkakrisa* 
_Thank you very much for the help RnB!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Ive been meaning to make a photo guide for a while, but never got around to it


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brschmid* 
_pretty much all connectors are the same 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 they may not look the same, but they are the same_

 


 be careful with some 1/4" connectors. Sometimes the longer tab is the left, and sometimes they switch sides.

 You should always check with a multimeter just in case.

 btw heres a pic of the switchcraft fully soldered


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* 
_be careful with some 1/4" connectors. Sometimes the longer tab is the left, and sometimes they switch sides.

 You should always check with a multimeter just in case._

 

good point, i always check myself, but i haven't made any cables for a while


----------



## RnB180

nm


----------



## FallenAngel

Hey guys,

 I got a litlte question. I just finished recabling my ProtaPros and for some reason the left channel sounds like it has almost no bass while the right channel sounds better than ever. Any ideas how one speaker could just lose most of the bass but still sound pretty good on the mids/highs? Could it be a bad soldering job to the plug or is it more likely the speaker? Both channels sounded fine before the recable so I know it wasn't something originally wrong with it.

 Thanks!


----------



## gsteinb88

I would check for a cold solder joint on both the driver and on the plug.
 -g


----------



## FallenAngel

Thanks G,

 I checked and found out it is only on one speaker, not the channel, and after playing around with it, determined the speaker is busted. Not sure exactly how it got that way, probably punctured the film so they're now in the trash. Guess I'll be moving the wire to my KSC75s and attaching them to the PortaPro headband. Ah, you win some you lose some, at least I learned to be more careful with the speakers.


----------



## RnB180

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FallenAngel* 
_Thanks G,

 I checked and found out it is only on one speaker, not the channel, and after playing around with it, determined the speaker is busted. Not sure exactly how it got that way, probably punctured the film so they're now in the trash. Guess I'll be moving the wire to my KSC75s and attaching them to the PortaPro headband. Ah, you win some you lose some, at least I learned to be more careful with the speakers._

 


 sounds like possibly heat damage from the soldering iron.


----------



## FallenAngel

RnB, that's might easily be the case, it was my first soldering job on headphones. Plus I was also adding a resistor to them between the wires so it was a really tight fit inside the wire housing so I might have overdone it with the solder. Hope my KSC75s survive, but just in case (and cause I need portables) I ordered another 2 pairs from NCIX


----------



## peterpan188

May be this is extremely simple and I just got stuck.

 How do you make a Y split for mini-rca? u start off with 1 cable 4 wire, solder L/R and ground(2) on the mini plug, and then how do u go on? How do I cut the wire and still have the rubber cover both leads from the Y joint? I guess I have never seen one without the heat shrink on it, so I never really found how to do it. Anyone please help this noob question?

 Thanks,
 Peter


----------



## brschmid

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *peterpan188* 
_May be this is extremely simple and I just got stuck.

 How do you make a Y split for mini-rca? u start off with 1 cable 4 wire, solder L/R and ground(2) on the mini plug, and then how do u go on? How do I cut the wire and still have the rubber cover both leads from the Y joint? I guess I have never seen one without the heat shrink on it, so I never really found how to do it. Anyone please help this noob question?

 Thanks,
 Peter_

 

it won't be possible to keep the original covering on the wires if you split up a single wire.


----------



## peterpan188

I am sorry but I still didn't quite get how to make a Y-Split. Should I joint 2 wires together? Or I have to get some lenght of rubber by taking the wires inside then insert one side of the lead into it?

 Would anyone mind showing a pic of the joint without the heatshrink, may be I am jsut getting brain dead the moment.

 Thanks

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brschmid* 
_it won't be possible to keep the original covering on the wires 
 if you split up a single wire._


----------



## brschmid

if you take the cable that has the 4 wires in it that you are using:

 remove the covering (just enough for make the split, usually 4" works good for me, you might want more or less) to expose all 4 wires wires, then split those 4 wires into 2 pairs, after you do that you can recover the wires however you would like, heatshrink, techflex, etc


----------



## peterpan188

i see what you are saying. What is the typical way of covering the conductor wires after the split ? I am looking at the mini-RCA on the first page, and it seems like it have heatshrink covering then a layer of techflex, am I right?


----------



## FallenAngel

Hi guys,

 It says on the first page to use the WHITE wires for signal in StarQuad, and to see explanation on page 4... I might be blind but I really don't see anything on page 4 that explains why.

 Any ideas?

 Thanks!


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FallenAngel* 
_Hi guys,

 It says on the first page to use the WHITE wires for signal in StarQuad, and to see explanation on page 4... I might be blind but I really don't see anything on page 4 that explains why.

 Any ideas?

 Thanks!_

 

All nonsense. Use whichever you wish. I believe the debate was about the fact that because one was colored (blue) it could have a possible impact on the signal or some such thing. Someone later pointed out that white is in fact a color as well. Regardless, it doesn't matter.


----------



## solbergg

I'm trying to decide what route I should take for making diy cables. There is the soldering method, as described by this thread, and then there appears to be another method by crimping. Is one technically superior than the other?

 Also, do the revolving wire cutters work well with the canare star quad cable?
 What size diameter tech flex is needed to fit the star quad well? Is heat shrinking necessary when using tech flex? Thanks, and I apologize if this information is answered elsewhere.


----------



## hembergler

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *solbergg* 
_I'm trying to decide what route I should take for making diy cables. There is the soldering method, as described by this thread, and then there appears to be another method by crimping. Is one technically superior than the other?

 Also, do the revolving wire cutters work well with the canare star quad cable?
 What size diameter tech flex is needed to fit the star quad well? Is heat shrinking necessary when using tech flex? Thanks, and I apologize if this information is answered elsewhere._

 

I'm not sure what you meant by your first question so I'll just skip over it for now. Maybe someone else can answer it.

 For TechFlex, I use 1/8th", since it fits very nicely over the StarQuad, but 1/4th" should work as well. I use heat shrink when I need it: If I want to secure a connector, or cover up some frayed TechFlex, then I'll cover it with heat shrink. For the diameter of heatshrink, I'd just order a ton of different sizes and use them as needed.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hembergler* 
_I'm not sure what you meant by your first question so I'll just skip over it for now. Maybe someone else can answer it.

 For TechFlex, I use 1/8th", since it fits very nicely over the StarQuad, but 1/4th" should work as well. I use heat shrink when I need it: If I want to secure a connector, or cover up some frayed TechFlex, then I'll cover it with heat shrink. For the diameter of heatshrink, I'd just order a ton of different sizes and use them as needed._

 

I echo hembergler's advice. Both 1/8" and 1/4" will work over star quad. The 1/8" will show more of the color of the starquad than the 1/4" due to the fact that it will need to stretch more. Heatshrinking is not required, but does provide significant strain reduction. I've found that the 12mm 3:1 ashesive heatshrink from parts express works well with starquad and switchcraft connectors. It's also convenient to order one of those assortment kits with all different lengths.

 I'll take a stab at your first question: I think soldering would be better simply because you have a solder connection in addition to a mechanical connection, but I'm sure someone with more knowledge will opine better than I on this particular subject.


----------



## hembergler

Ahhh, I see what he means. Having never worked with crimping, I think either would work, but soldering seems more secure and adaptable to me. 

 I also recommend getting varying sizes of heatshink. Recently I ordered 3 feet in four different sizes of heatshrink, and am already running low for all but the 1" heatshrink. (which isn't to say that it isn't useful) Also, 3:1 heatshrink, is _much_ better than 2:1. Some of the 2:1 I've used simply is not useful, and I've had to cut it off afterwards.


----------



## solbergg

Thanks for your thoughts, guys! I was actually already leaning towards the soldering method, since the crimping die to work with canare is pretty spendy. But, now that I am home from work, I checked my tool box and I actually happen to have the correct die set for it. So, since I have the tools for both, I am going to order parts for each method, try both, and see which I prefer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Just as a side note, I have had a bit of experience working with power conductors before during my marine technician training. They always told us to crimp over soldering, as the soldered connection is more fragile. But, power is a lot easier as you only have one strand to deal with to make the crimped connection. The audio world of diy appears to follow a completely different set of rules.


----------



## hembergler

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *solbergg* 
_Thanks for your thoughts, guys! I was actually already leaning towards the soldering method, since the crimping die to work with canare is pretty spendy. But, now that I am home from work, I checked my tool box and I actually happen to have the correct die set for it. So, since I have the tools for both, I am going to order parts for each method, try both, and see which I prefer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just as a side note, I have had a bit of experience working with power conductors before during my marine technician training. They always told us to crimp over soldering, as the soldered connection is more fragile. But, power is a lot easier as you only have one strand to deal with to make the crimped connection. The audio world of diy appears to follow a completely different set of rules._

 

Either way will work. If there is contact, then the signal will get from one place to the other, and unless you're making a guitar cable that will be tripped over and pulled constantly, I doubt you'll have a problem.


----------



## Lostlamb

For those who don't have a multimeter *recommended to have one*, but if you are in a bind and you need a way to check continuity, here is an easy way of doing so.

 A battery, AAA, AA, 9V, C, or D, any thing big enough for you to use. A pair of crappy headphones *I'm sure we all have a pair of these $1.99 headphones that came with your PCDP and MP3P, if you don't...shame on you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 *

 Just complete the circuit with the battery, IC, and headphone. If they were soldered correctly, you can hear the headphone thump. All you really need to do is check the + channel, because if it didn't work, it's probably shorted or soldered wrong. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Things to do with a multimeter...
 measure capacitance
 measure resistance
 measure inductance

 Because I use my own braiding and design, I usually measure each cable, and ensure that they are matched per pair as close as possible. Off the shelf made cables, you probably won't have to measure to match each pair.


----------



## skyline889

.


----------



## hembergler

Low prices, not a big selection, www.redco.com
 Lots of stuff more expensive than redco, partsexpress.com + markertek.com

 Heatshrink/TechFlex, cableorganizer.com + wirecare.com


----------



## splaz

Okay noob questions.

 Does the metal braiding do anything, considering it's not connected to ground as far as I can tell ?

 I'm also assuming the shielding wouldn't work properly if the conductors weren't twisted ?

 Just looking at alternatives as canare is an absolute fortune over here. Might end up ordering some from the US, but my wallet is cringing in fear, I need to lay off it for a week or two.


----------



## Lostlamb

Passive shielding works pretty good, a lot of cables have a thin aluminum foil in their design. I used a tin braided shielding for my re-cabling job for my K501. It doesn't have to be braied to be an effective shielding. Of course the best shielding is a grounded shield.


----------



## Hellacious D

Is there an ideal kind of 2 conductor wire for rca-rca? I'm not really sure where or how to look for it. Could I just buy a ton of silver wire and wrap it in techflex?

 Thanks,
 Jeff


----------



## hembergler

That would work. You could use instrument cable too, and use the shielding as the ground.


----------



## Hemos

Might be a dumb question but how do you open Neutrik mini connectors once they are on an interconnect ? Canare F12 are just a screw style but I can't figure out how to open the neutrik connector without breaking the cable.

 Max


----------



## skyline889

.


----------



## hembergler

Hemos, the Neutrik's are also screw on, but they have a very tight fit, so it might be difficult to take off.

 As for the TechFlex, skyline, 1/8th inch usually works if you want it to be fairly tight. I personally prefer 1/4th since it's easier to put on, and it covers whatever you're putting it on more densely.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hembergler* 
_
 As for the TechFlex, skyline, 1/8th inch usually works if you want it to be fairly tight. I personally prefer 1/4th since it's easier to put on, and it covers whatever you're putting it on more densely._

 

Agreed. I think it's worth getting both sizes. 1/4" for the run up to the split, 1/8" from the split to the plugs.


----------



## skyline889

Sounds good, thanks for the replys guys. The pricing at Partsexpress are really good however, I noticed you have to buy either 6inches or 4 ft or heatshrink at a time, is there someplace that you can buy it buy the foot on one roll, instead of buying it precut? Also someplace that sells that carbon, reflective, techflex would be a big plus too! Thanks


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *skyline889* 
_Sounds good, thanks for the replys guys. The pricing at Partsexpress are really good however, I noticed you have to buy either 6inches or 4 ft or heatshrink at a time, is there someplace that you can buy it buy the foot on one roll, instead of buying it precut? Also someplace that sells that carbon, reflective, techflex would be a big plus too! Thanks_

 

http://www.cableorganizer.com


----------



## FallenAngel

Just wanted to let everybody know that www.partsconnexion.com is having a 15% OFF sale on quite a bit of stuff.

 Details of the sale here: http://partsconnexion.com/econnexion.../july2006.html

 One of the noticable things (and the reason it's in this thread) is that they're selling *Cardas 4x24* already not bad at $6.75/foot, but now there's an extra 15% off, so it's only *$5.74*.


----------



## kaushama

where Can I buy gold plated Neutrik right angled mini connectors online? Should be a dealer who does international shipping!


----------



## hembergler

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FallenAngel* 
_Just wanted to let everybody know that www.partsconnexion.com is having a 15% OFF sale on quite a bit of stuff.

 Details of the sale here: http://partsconnexion.com/econnexion.../july2006.html

 One of the noticable things (and the reason it's in this thread) is that they're selling *Cardas 4x24* already not bad at $6.75/foot, but now there's an extra 15% off, so it's only *$5.74*._

 

Wow, that place just keeps getting better and better. I'll definately be ordering stuff from them the next time I need parts.


----------



## skyline889

Have any of you guys had the chance to test out those locking Onix connectors? They look good and they're pretty cheap too. How are the cardas SLVRs?


----------



## hembergler

I haven't tried either, but I'm willing to bet Cardas has things figured out.

 Redco now carries the Switchcraft right angle 3.5mm minis if anyone's interested.


----------



## mb3k

I've seen a couple people use the Canare GS-6 cable but I'm confused.. there's only one wire. For RCA-to-RCA cables, where do you hook up the ground wire?

 EDIT: For the record I found out what other's have done: the sheilding acts as the ground.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mb3k* 
_I've seen a couple people use the Canare GS-6 cable but I'm confused.. there's only one wire. For RCA-to-RCA cables, where do you hook up the ground wire?_

 

Just guessing here, but maybe the shield would go to ground?


----------



## fyleow

I'm thinking about making a 3.5mm mini to RCA to connect my sound card's SPDIF to my DAC. It doesn't look like there are any 3.5mm mono connectors though, do I just use a stereo one?

 I'm looking at the Canare Star-Quad microphone cable right now and it has 4 wires, does that mean I solder 2 for ground and 2 for signal? Or do I just use 1 each and leave the other 2 unused?

 Do I need the 75ohm Coaxial RCA plugs for SPDIF?


----------



## mb3k

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fyleow* 
_I'm thinking about making a 3.5mm mini to RCA to connect my sound card's SPDIF to my DAC. It doesn't look like there are any 3.5mm mono connectors though, do I just use a stereo one?

 I'm looking at the Canare Star-Quad microphone cable right now and it has 4 wires, does that mean I solder 2 for ground and 2 for signal? Or do I just use 1 each and leave the other 2 unused?

 Do I need the 75ohm Coaxial RCA plugs for SPDIF?_

 

There are such things as mono 3.5mm plugs... Here's some from BTX.com, I've purchased from them before and they're quite good and competatively priced.


----------



## fyleow

Yeah I found some on Markertek, not sure why I couldn't find it before 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I was thinking of ordering this:

 Canare Star Quad Microphone cable
 SW3502AAU Switchcraft RCA Male Silver/Gold
 SW780 Switchcraft Mini Plug with shielded handle

 The mini plugs say that it's 2 contacts so I'm assuming that's mono. For SPDIF do I need the 75mm coax RCA or is that RCA fine?

 EDIT:

 After some searching it seems that for SPDIF you do need 75 ohm.

 Blue Jeans Cable sells one and following their suggestions:
 Cable: Belden 1694A
 RAC: Canare RCAP
 Mono: Switchcraft 780

 If I'm not mistaken the Coaxial only has one wire right? So there's no ground for the SPDIF cable?


----------



## mb3k

Can anyone recommend a good cable stripper for the StarQuad and GS-6 cable?


----------



## hembergler

I use a pair of sharp scissors, and am just very careful with how I use them.


----------



## FallenAngel

I use an exacto knife, works like a charm since it's much easier to cut the rubber outter shell vs the copper shield.


----------



## threepointone

I'm thinking about making my first cable. I've got a load of silver teflon hookup wire on hand, so I'm thinking about just braiding that instead of getting canare star quad. I'm just wondering, though, what jacket I should use for the cable. Should techflex be sufficient for protecting the wires, or should I use some PVC or some other tubing over all the wires?

 Also, does anyone know if there's somewhere you could buy the shielding foil for cables?


----------



## threepointone

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ebonyks* 
_Something perhaps worth mentioning:

 While i don't reccomend using starquad in any situation (PVC dieletrical, it's terrible stuff), if you have to, use the white part to carry the signal. PVC's dieletrical properties are compromised by adding coloring agents (This is unique to PVC, if you're using a wire with a superior dieletric, like teflon, this advice need not be followed)_

 

isn't natural pvc clear. . .

 if you think it should make a difference, it shouldn't matter which one you use, considering that all of the wires in star quad have coloring agents


----------



## hembergler

A jacket shouldn't really matter. TechFlex is mostly for decoration. As for foil, I don't know. =/

 And with the StarQuad's PVC, use whatever wire you want.


----------



## Anarchy965

Making this into a seperate thread. Mods delete this post.(Yeah right like they ever actually will.)


----------



## splaz

Quote:


 If I'm not mistaken the Coaxial only has one wire right? So there's no ground for the SPDIF cable? 
 

If I'm not mistaken there is a signal wire in the centre surrounded by a plastic or similar insulator then the ground conductor is a metal braid sheath around the plastic then a PVC sheath. Well that's what the generic stuff usually is.

 I think you can get variations with foil shielding and I've seen both stranded and solid core, also solid or braided sheath. Of course you can also get different sheaths, insulators, conductors etc.

 But coax has 2 conductors and ground is the outer braid and the signal is the inner conductor.


----------



## siezien

Hi everyboby,

 sorry for my bad english, wonderfull this tread, thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I am new headphone user, I have a AKG K 240 studio and DT880
 I would like to change the headphone cable by a good one quality/price cable.

 I saw the STARQUAD, no expensive, the techflex 3/8" is good ?

 the techflex for cat5 what size please ?

 the very good ones cables headphone as silver or black dragon, équinox... are not saled per feet ?? 

 thanks a lot,
 Thibault


----------



## mb3k

Anyone have secret sources for your right-angled 3.5mm plugs?
 The only ones I know about are the Neutriks, and the Switchcraft ones... I would like more alternatives if anyone out there knows of any more.


----------



## MASantos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mb3k* 
_Anyone have secret sources for your right-angled 3.5mm plugs?
 The only ones I know about are the Neutriks, and the Switchcraft ones... I would like more alternatives if anyone out there knows of any more._

 


 I don't know af any other brands which are worth mentioning. Neutrik RA's aren't that expensive.


----------



## xelion

Well I guess this is the best place for my question, I was going to make a mini to mini cable, and thought I'd make a new guitar cable as well, so I got a couple of the connectors, and I got stereo instead of mono. Will I still be able to use them?


----------



## FA22RaptorF22

i dont really recommend it...but you can use the tip as normal and solder the ring (left) onto the shield making it like a mono cable. As you can see mono 1/4" is the same as stereo except the stereo has 2 rings instead of 1. Get it?


----------



## Undisclosed

i have a question about 3 pin XLR connector and starquad cable. How is the best way to wire it? 1 for left/right and 2 for ground?


----------



## st33ve0

Acutally XLR connectors are not right and left they are merely balance so they have the pins 1,2,3 which are Ground, Positive, and Negative in that order if I'm not mistaken, I generally use one for each or double up on the ground, but there may be a better way to do it.


----------



## FA22RaptorF22

it depends on the cable you are making...from what to what? Then i can tell you.


----------



## Undisclosed

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FA22RaptorF22* 
_it depends on the cable you are making...from what to what? Then i can tell you._

 


 shure sm57 mic


----------



## FA22RaptorF22

30awg wire is good for this....

http://www.shure.com/ProAudio/Produc...us_pro_sm57_ug


----------



## Sybaek

I'm considering making my own 1/4" to 1/8" plug to take my Senn 595's to my mini-jack amp. I want to avoid using those single piece adaptors you pick up at Ratshack, because I'm sure I'll break something really quick. So I plan on making essentially the same piece, except with a 90deg minijack male connector on one end connected with 3-4inches of cable and a 1/4" female piece on the other.I've opted to use the Canare cable outlined in the first post and the Switchcraft 90deg mini plug. I was trying to find the 1/4" female adaptor for one end, but the markertek site has about 3 different options and they all sound the same. 

http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp...baseItem=SW120

 I think it's the first one, but I'd appreciate any input as to if that is the correct piece or not. And if you can give me some tips on soldering that piece I'd really like the help. If anyone else has some tips I'd appreciate it for my first attempt at a DIY cable.


----------



## The Monkey

I think those are only 2-conductor jacks, but I ask someone else to confirm. I think you need the stereo jack, which is a different part that Markertek does not appear to have.


----------



## The Monkey

I *think* you want Part # SW131 found on this page:

http://www.markertek.com/SearchProdu...ff=0&sort=prod


----------



## Sybaek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* 
_I *think* you want Part # SW131 found on this page:

http://www.markertek.com/SearchProdu...ff=0&sort=prod_

 

You're exactly right. But I can't seem to find the Switchcraft model on any site that doesn't require a bulk purchase <25 dollars. I think I'm going to have to go with the Neutrik version, although I really don't like the way to looks and the locking mechanism.



 EDIT--
 Okay after a bit of searching I found http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=090-313 which appears to be a generic build. Would it be a better idea to go with Neutrik or this? I wanted to heatshrink the ends, but if it's at the expense of quality I'll stick with just heatshrinking one end. Also, with the Neutrik model http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=092-134 , has anyone actually used this with the Star Quad cable? I want to make sure it looks clean on the end without heatshrink.


----------



## The Monkey

Mouser's got 'em, but I always forget about their handling fees, etc.


----------



## *645-k701

cost me 3€ for the mini,s and 4€ for the cable, took 2 hours to make, second attempt.

 Im happy and the sound is alot better than the normal mini's, much clearer Highs.

 Id put this up against most 30-100€ cables.


----------



## *645-k701

cost me 3€ for the mini,s and 4€ for the cable, took 2 hours to make, second attempt.

 Im happy and the sound is alot better than the normal mini's, much clearer Highs.

 Id put this up against most 30-100€ cables.





 double spam woohoo, Sorry.. =/


----------



## knalb

hi guys, this if my first IC. It has 100 Ohm resistors in it, so it looks funny in the middle.


----------



## makasin

Hey all!
 This is going to be my first cabling attempt.
 Here is what I purchased:

 -6 [L-4E6S OE] Canare L-4E6S Star-Quad Microphone Cable Orange
 -1 [35HDNAU] Switchcraft Mini 3.5mm Gold Plug with Nickel Handle
 -4Polyofefin 3/8x2 shrink tubing (HGA)
 -2 LOK Performance RCA Rhodium/Black (HGA)

 Is there anything else that I should consider getting?
 Would this be a good setup?
 I hope itll be better than the 20 dollar NXG interconnect i currently have.

 I have a question.
 WHat is the point of the techflex tubing?
 Is it mostly for looks and to make the cable easier to handle or does it perform a specific function?
 Do I need to get some of that stuff?
 Also, how big of a difference is "regular" solder and silver solder in terms of sound quality? Will I notice anything at all?


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *makasin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_WHat is the point of the techflex tubing?
 Is it mostly for looks and to make the cable easier to handle or does it perform a specific function?_

 

Make the cable look nicer, and if you're using multiple strands of cable keeps them together

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *makasin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do I need to get some of that stuff?_

 

Need - no, want - maybe.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *makasin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, how big of a difference is "regular" solder and silver solder in terms of sound quality? Will I notice anything at all?_

 

Considering that you shouldn't actually have the solder conducting the signal, you shouldn't hear anything. Silver solder is only used on silver or silver plated wire / components. It's usually harder to work with and the only reasno to use it is that it sticks to silver better. You shouldn't use it unless you're using silver wire/plugs.

 No matter what solder you use, you still should have a good mechanical connection between components (they should physical be touching - better if pressed against each other). The solder is mostly there just to keep it in place.

 Good luck with the cable, it should look and sound good with those components. I haven't tried the Canare starquad or the LOK RCA's, but Magami starquad is very good and the Switchcraft mini is the best I've ever used. I only use it on my best cables / headphone recables.


----------



## makasin

awesome, thanks a lot.
 So hopefully this will actually improve the sound quality of my setup, but I should probably invest in a better source component as well (turtle beach audio advantage micro).
 BTW, has anyone used the RCA connectors that I have?
 Are the connectors generally easy to work with?
 Also, since I will be cutting up the cable to split it into two RCAs at one end, will I need to shield it at all? and would wrapping it in electrical tape do anything? I noticed that there were several setups with the cables bare (but twisted/braided) so my guess would be no.


----------



## mb3k

A question about AC power cable...
 What type/brand of cable do you guys prefer for making a DIY AC power cable? I'm in the process of making AC power cables to carry AC from an externally housed transformer to my amp and don't know what's out there for this. All I can really find is assembled AC cords but not separate AC cables.


----------



## pelayostyle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mb3k* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A question about AC power cable...
 What type/brand of cable do you guys prefer for making a DIY AC power cable? I'm in the process of making AC power cables to carry AC from an externally housed transformer to my amp and don't know what's out there for this. All I can really find is assembled AC cords but not separate AC cables._

 

I use this stuff http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...53&rak=100-790


----------



## mb3k

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pelayostyle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use this stuff http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...53&rak=100-790_

 

Excellent, thank you.
 I've found it cheaper at TakeFiveAudio, which is located in Canada so even cheaper for shipping


----------



## laxx

i have a question about this ic you made.






 you said you only use starquad so i'm assuming you used 1 strand of starquad for your mini-rca.

 where it splits into the Y, did you just remove pvc and the shielding and just twist 2 wires (2 for left and 2 for right), then just put the nylon multifilament on? it seems much thicker than that, so i'm curious as to what you used to cover the 2 bare wires before you added the multifilament.


----------



## barqy

can anyone tell me if the Canare Star Quad Micophone Cable (L-4E6S) will be suitable for making an ipod connector to portable amp cable?

 My question is the cable meant for being flexed at such an angle for that purpose? 

 And will be small/big enough to fit into the 'slim' and 'ultra slim' ipod connectors offered by ridax (http://home.swipnet.se/ridax/connector.htm)


 Similar to this type of flex: http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/8...0055ni2.th.jpg


 The dimensions of the L-4E6S cable can be found here: http://www.canare.com/index.cfm?obje...AD046DCA18AAFA

 Cheers

 edit: 

 The ultra slim connector has an exit with 4.45mm diameter.

 The thin connector has an exit with 6.5mm diameter.

 The thick connector has en exit with 8.5mm diameter.


 guess it works


----------



## luidge

Ok, i am gonna build my first IC. I will build Mini to dual RCA IC with dayton RCA and F12 Canara 1/8 plug. I will build this project by braiding different cable that i got for this purpose. I dispose of 3 type of cable, Silver plated copper, Teflon coated and Pure copper as stated in this thread 

http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=206079

 Ok so i just bought all the tool i will need to build it at my local shop, a cheap 40w solder, 1lb of tin/lead solder wire (.08) and solder paste. I already have 3/8 texflex and i bought 1/4 heatshrink (i know the heatshrink is smaller than texflex in number, but it still fit pretty good) and a little helping mgnifier with gator grip.

 Did i forgot something?

 Ok so first of all, before i start my braiding experimentation, how much cable will i need to braid for this project? 4 if it is like headphone cable 6 if each rca need to be stereo (sorry i am realy a newb).

 Next, wich cable in my lot should i use for signal and ground?

 Then, do you know where i can find a realy basic soldering video? I don't want to mess my job and i need to see how to do it because im a visual type of guy. I already look at the tangent videos but i feel like i need more, ill look at youtube for the moment.

 Thank you if you can help me.

 -Luidge

 P.S. I made a thread with these questions, so you can reply there directly :d


----------



## daggerlee

For those who braid their own wire, how are you braiding for RCA interconnects? I'd ideally like to have two separate ICs, so for each IC, it would just be a simple two wire twist right? Or would it be better to configure them in a litz braid in the same jacket, and split them at the ends?


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *daggerlee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For those who braid their own wire, how are you braiding for RCA interconnects? I'd ideally like to have two separate ICs, so for each IC, it would just be a simple two wire twist right? Or would it be better to configure them in a litz braid in the same jacket, and split them at the ends?_

 

Don't think it would actually make any sonic difference either way, except maybe even create a little more crosstalk between the channels, but again, this is a very small chance.

 Plus, 2 wires look better


----------



## daggerlee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FallenAngel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't think it would actually make any sonic difference either way, except maybe even create a little more crosstalk between the channels, but again, this is a very small chance.

 Plus, 2 wires look better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks! One more question, is solid core or stranded better for an RCA IC? navships on ebay is selling either for about the same price, I'm torn..


----------



## mb3k

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *daggerlee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks! One more question, is solid core or stranded better for an RCA IC? navships on ebay is selling either for about the same price, I'm torn.._

 

I would go with the stranded because it is much more flexible.


----------



## warMen

I'm going to make a few cables, but what is this black stuff that goes over the adapters, like in this picture:






 Also, would a cable be easy to make for a noob at soldering (like me). I want to make an iPod interconnect as well, I might need a bit of practice for that.


----------



## XFxGeforced

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *warMen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm going to make a few cables, but what is this black stuff that goes over the adapters, like in this picture:






 Also, would a cable be easy to make for a noob at soldering (like me). I want to make an iPod interconnect as well, I might need a bit of practice for that._

 

thats called heatshrink, you put it over the section you want, then blow hot air on it and it shrinks like that. As for the soldering, with a 1/8" stereo plug like that, it's pretty simple if you've soldered before, just remember to heat both things you are soldering together then flow the solder on, if you just flow the solder onto cold metal itll break


----------



## warMen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XFxGeforced* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thats called heatshrink, you put it over the section you want, then blow hot air on it and it shrinks like that. As for the soldering, with a 1/8" stereo plug like that, it's pretty simple if you've soldered before, just remember to heat both things you are soldering together then flow the solder on, if you just flow the solder onto cold metal itll break 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Okay, thanks for the info. I have a soldering iron lying around somewhere, my mom used to be a jeweler so she's good at that stuff anyway. 

 What size heatshrink should I order for the cable and plugs in the picture above?


----------



## XFxGeforced

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *warMen* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, thanks for the info. I have a soldering iron lying around somewhere, my mom used to be a jeweler so she's good at that stuff anyway. 

 What size heatshrink should I order for the cable and plugs in the picture above?_

 

id say just goto a place like radioshack or some electrical store that sells heatshrink, take the plug you wannt shrink and get the heatshrink that just barely fits over the plug for the tightest fit.


----------



## SayNoToPistons

So what is the big deal with techflex? Is it mostly for looks?


----------



## XFxGeforced

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SayNoToPistons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what is the big deal with techflex? Is it mostly for looks?_

 

yeah, since i dont think anyone is looking for sleeving that withstands high temperatures, its prob that. It does look nice though


----------



## Yen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SayNoToPistons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what is the big deal with techflex? Is it mostly for looks?_

 

It can also protect your cable, especially if you have used thin cables, but mostly its for looks.


----------



## daggerlee

Received some Neutrik Profi RCA connectors today. These are very cool - they have a spring loaded connector, so that the ground always makes contact, and then the ground sleeve retracts back, allowing for a very deep connection into the RCA jack. Very cool. They are only $11 a pair at Markertek, cheaper by a few bucks than anywhere else I have seen on the internet. Cant wait to get my SPC wire and make a nice pair of interconnects.






 Also received some 1/8" neutrik plugs - can't believe I was paying $3.50 a pop for Switchcrafts when I coulda bought these for 80 cents each 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Got some mogami mini star quad, can't believe how thin it is - will be recabling my KSC75s and (hopefully) MS1s shortly.


----------



## warMen

I finished it. Works great. I just need to get some heatshrink though because some of the wires are showing. I only tested it on my stereo, so I don't have anything high quality to test the cable on. 

 I have a few questions though. I made the cable out of cat5e plenum ethernet cable. Each channel is connected by 2 wires, except the ground which only uses 1. The cable isn't shielded at all... but will the other 3 unused wires act as shielding or what? Is it ok to use unshielded cable?


----------



## SayNoToPistons

I have some questions:
 - What type of solder do you guys use? 
 - Do you notice an improvement in sound when you use silver solder? 
 - How about solder paste?
 - If i use the star quad cables for rca-rca, do i used both whites for signal and both blues for ground?
 - What is the thickness (in diameter) of the canare star quad cables?
 - Should i use some other cable for rca-rca interconnects instead of the canare star quad?
 - What other cables can i use to make quality rca-rca interconnects? I'm looking for really thick and durable cables.


----------



## XFxGeforced

i use 3% silver solder


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SayNoToPistons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_- What type of solder do you guys use? _

 

Kester 63/37 is very good and very nice to work with.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SayNoToPistons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_- Do you notice an improvement in sound when you use silver solder? _

 

You shouldn't since it's not the solder that conducts the signal, there should always be a mechanical connection. Silver bearing solder just sticks to silver better, use only when soldering Silver wire, Silver plated copper wire or your PCB is silver (never seen before).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SayNoToPistons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_- How about solder paste?_

 

Uhm... not sure.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SayNoToPistons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_- If i use the star quad cables for rca-rca, do i used both whites for signal and both blues for ground?_

 

Sure, or one for each and carry 2 channels.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SayNoToPistons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_- What is the thickness (in diameter) of the canare star quad cables?_

 

Check the datasheet, there are a few different types of wires that Canare makes.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SayNoToPistons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_- Should i use some other cable for rca-rca interconnects instead of the canare star quad?_

 

StarQuad is pretty nice for RCA-RCA, but the choices are limitless.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SayNoToPistons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_- What other cables can i use to make quality rca-rca interconnects? I'm looking for really thick and durable cables._

 

Same as above.

 Enjoy your building


----------



## SayNoToPistons

OK, that helps! Thanks! and Happy new years!


----------



## warMen

I made my first interconnect out of Cat5e ethernet cable. Can't tell how it sounds because I haven't used it with my headphones yet, only my crap stereo. Only thing I know is that the channels go in and out. This is because I forgot to put one of the adapter sleeve things on before I put on the last connector, so I had to melt the solder off and do it again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. there was quite a bit of excess solder I couldn't get off so it probably has a crappy connection. Oh well. I made this mistake twice too, once yesterday. Lesson learned.

 Anyway I just bought some speaker wire so I plan on making an IC out of that instead next time.

 Are gold or silver plugs better?


----------



## SayNoToPistons

^
 I just made an interconnect out of cat5 (Ethernet) cables and really crappy/old Monster RCA connectors. 4 out of the 16 wires were enough ( 2 for ground and 2 for signal) but i some how was able to stuff all 16 of them (8 for ground and 8 for signal) into the connectors and soldered them in. Very hard to solder that many wires but it worked. Sounds surprisingly good. They sound warmer than my 70 OHM triaxial Gepco studio camera DIY interconnects i made (almost as good as my Gepco IMHO). Looks a little.... fruity... with all those fruity colors twisted into one.


----------



## Dave_M

Hi, I want to make interconnect with solid core copper conductor. All "audio grade" cables use stranded copper conductor. I found some higher spec cable that looks like it should work. It is described as "OFC Professional serial digital coax". Maybe it is a bit over the top or not suitable. What do you think..






 Conductor: 0.60mm OFC copper
 Dielectric: foamed polyethlene
 Inner screen: aluminium tape 100% coverage
 Outer screen: braided OFC copper 95% coverage
 Jacket: PVC/neoprene/LSOH compound
 Overall diameter: 4.5mm
 Impedance: 75Ω
 Capacitance: 53pF/m
 Attenuation: 1MHz0.4dB/100m
 10MHz2.252dB/100m
 100MHz6.0dB/100m


----------



## laxx

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *daggerlee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Received some Neutrik Profi RCA connectors today. These are very cool - they have a spring loaded connector, so that the ground always makes contact, and then the ground sleeve retracts back, allowing for a very deep connection into the RCA jack. Very cool. They are only $11 a pair at Markertek, cheaper by a few bucks than anywhere else I have seen on the internet. Cant wait to get my SPC wire and make a nice pair of interconnects.






 Also received some 1/8" neutrik plugs - can't believe I was paying $3.50 a pop for Switchcrafts when I coulda bought these for 80 cents each 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Got some mogami mini star quad, can't believe how thin it is - will be recabling my KSC75s and (hopefully) MS1s shortly._

 

I actually don't like the Pro-Fi's. I made a set of RCA's for wnewport with the Canare F-10 RCA's and made myself a set with Pro-Fi's and I dont' like how hard it is to plug the Pro-Fi's in. It's a major pain to force them into my Aria and CDP.


----------



## SoundGoon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dave_M* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, I want to make interconnect with solid core copper conductor. All "audio grade" cables use stranded copper conductor. I found some higher spec cable that looks like it should work. It is described as "OFC Professional serial digital coax". Maybe it is a bit over the top or not suitable. What do you think..






 Conductor: 0.60mm OFC copper
 Dielectric: foamed polyethlene
 Inner screen: aluminium tape 100% coverage
 Outer screen: braided OFC copper 95% coverage
 Jacket: PVC/neoprene/LSOH compound
 Overall diameter: 4.5mm
 Impedance: 75Ω
 Capacitance: 53pF/m
 Attenuation: 1MHz0.4dB/100m
 10MHz2.252dB/100m
 100MHz6.0dB/100m_

 


 Should work nicely; you plan on using the braid as ground and the copper as signal?


----------



## FallenAngel

If you're making an analog interconnect, you don't NEED 75Ohm, and the whole OFC thing is a big sham. All copper cables are OFC, otherwise, it's just bad cable manufacturing.

 Not sure if all audio grade cables are stranded, I'd say they're mostly stranded to keep them flexible. Trust me, unless you're going for fairly thing guage cables with very thing coating/tubing, you usually don't want solid core for audio, especially headphone cables or short IC's. You might be ok with it for longer interconnects, but I've just build a couple of Belden 89259 interconnects and they're stiff as a baord, almost impossible to work with in short lengths. Unless you're connecting very heavy things, you'll have serious pull/strain on the cable. I built a pair of cables, about 2' each and if I want to connect it to my little AlienDAC, it'll be pointing at the sky like a woddy in the morning!


----------



## Dave_M

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoundGoon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Should work nicely; you plan on using the braid as ground and the copper as signal?_

 

Yes.


 When I say all audio grade cables are stranded, I mean cables designed for making interconnects that you buy from electronics shops like Farnell. I know 75 Ohm isnt needed, but that is for very high freq stuff. For analog audio that cable should be 0 Ohm more or less. I heard solid core sounds better than stranded (more spacious and airy soundstage, but slightly less bass). I thought I would see for myself. The only solid core copper cables I could find came under the "Video And RF Cable" catagory.

 That cable is only 0.6mm core, so shouldn't be too stiff, I hope. Also overall diameter is 4.5mm which is important because usually RCA plugs only allow 5mm max. (typical video/RF cable is more like 1mm core, 6mm outer diameter)

 FallenAngel, if your DAC is reaching for the heavens in the morning you must take a picture


----------



## FallenAngel

0.6mm is around 22.5 - 23 AWG, shouldn't be too bad, but still might be kind of stiff. Yes, the general consensus is that solid cables sound a little better than stranded, I personally can't confirm since I've never seen 2 cables that except for being solid vs stranded were by the same manufacturer / same process / etc.

 Dave_M : I'll try the 89259 IC's with my AlienDAC for pics in a couple of days


----------



## SayNoToPistons

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SoundGoon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Should work nicely; you plan on using the braid as ground and the copper as signal?_

 

That the only proper way to do it.


----------



## ronmtorres

i just finished my first interconnect using a cat5 cable. what i did was choose three wires (i think there were 6-8 wires) and used them as connection points. i cut the wires i did not use. my problem is when i plug them to my amp and my czv:m, i cannot plug one end completely or the sound becomes only on one side of my can (mono). if i do not insert the whole 3.5mm plug, the sound becomes stereo. what could be the problem here? thanks!


----------



## SayNoToPistons

Seems like you might've mixed up with the wire connections... check the colors again.


----------



## ronmtorres

thanks a lot, i will 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 do you, however, recommend me using a specific color for each of the left/right/ground connections?


----------



## Zorander

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ronmtorres* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks a lot, i will 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 do you, however, recommend me using a specific color for each of the left/right/ground connections?_

 

There is no need to use any specific colours. Simply make sure each wire is connected to their respective terminals, i.e. left signal input to left signal output, left ground input to left ground output and so on.


----------



## Norman

I'm not very familiar with the measurements used to determine the size of Techflex needed i.e. 1/4 7/16 3/32 etc.

 What is the average sized Techflex used around here for say a 2xRCA-2xRCA cable?


editNEVERMIND, looks like I skipped past the bit on the Techflex advice 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




edit 2Actually, I do need help. What do I choose for 3/8in? Inches are hurting my brain


----------



## slwiser

Has anyone seen RnB180 lately? Is he doing all right? I just check his messages and he hasn't posted since Nov 06.


----------



## drkazndragon

about the canare starquads.... are the individual conducters flexible? how about the copper? i worked with some home depot 16-4 wires, god they were stiff and really hard to work with...


----------



## SayNoToPistons

^ Yes and yes.


----------



## royalcrown

Quick question about a mini-jack to mini-jack cable:

 I don't have a multimeter handy, nor do I have any button cell batteries handy. I have something called a "voltage tester" however it says 80-500V AC/DC on it and I have no clue how to use it (an electrician left it here once and I just took it). Knowing this:

 If I use starquad in the mini-mini cable, can I twist the two blues and the two whites together for the signal, and use the shielding as ground? Similar to what the above poster is doing with RCA, except with starquad and a mini jack. I'm not sure if this would work, anyone have an answer?

 Thanks in advance.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *royalcrown* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quick question about a mini-jack to mini-jack cable:

 I don't have a multimeter handy, nor do I have any button cell batteries handy. I have something called a "voltage tester" however it says 80-500V AC/DC on it and I have no clue how to use it (an electrician left it here once and I just took it). Knowing this:

 If I use starquad in the mini-mini cable, can I twist the two blues and the two whites together for the signal, and use the shielding as ground? Similar to what the above poster is doing with RCA, except with starquad and a mini jack. I'm not sure if this would work, anyone have an answer?

 Thanks in advance._

 

I believe that should be fine.


----------



## applejax

Great write up, my eyes are bleary from reading 27 pages of it.

 I am interested in trying this out, mostly for car, but maybe a couple for home, and I have a few questions since I've never done this before.

 Should I go with Canare 75 Ohm Digital Video Coaxial Cable RG-6 Type, or Canare L-2T2S 2-Conductor? 

 The solid copper core looks attractive as previously mentioned, but I'm not sure how flexible or easy the cable is to work with. 

 I see RCA ends specifically designed for RG-6, but the RG-6 could use the same RCA ends as any other cable, correct?


----------



## AngryGuy

What size techflex should I be getting for canare star quad?


----------



## SayNoToPistons

Regular mic star quad?


----------



## AngryGuy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SayNoToPistons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Regular mic star quad?_

 

Yes. L-4E6S.

 As a side question, this seems to be the most used cable, but is there something better I could spend a little more for? I'm just trying to make a mini to RCA to go from my X-Fi to my LD2++.


----------



## GarlicKnots

edit: wrong thread for pictures

 Q. Supplier / Part Numbers for 1/4 TRS maroon with gold contacts

 Q. How do you hold your braid while soldering the second connector. I've tried holding it with wire clamps and rubber bands but it always unravels a bit.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AngryGuy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes. L-4E6S.

 As a side question, this seems to be the most used cable, but is there something better I could spend a little more for? I'm just trying to make a mini to RCA to go from my X-Fi to my LD2++._

 

I just picked up some Mogami cable. Some think it's a step up.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GarlicKnots* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Q. Does anyone know where to get maroon TRS connectors with gold contacts?
_

 

iirc, I have seen one on a parts site, but I forget which. Will try to remember.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GarlicKnots* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Q. How do you keep braids tight while you're soldering the second side? I tried wire clamps and rubber bands, but both didn't hold the braid. Unfortunately my last loop kinda unraveled._

 

I use some masking tape at the second end.


----------



## GlendaleViper

Well, 27 pages in and my question hasn't been asked...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dave_M* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_




_

 

... but I believe this image answered it inadvertently.


 With regard to soldering the sheilding at the source end only, is this the method to do it, simply unraveling the shield's weave and twisting to achieve a point to solder?

 Appreciated!


----------



## Zarathustra19

Okay, n00b question here guys. I'm thinking of making my own mini-to-mini cables, would it be possible to use Canare L-2T2S 2-Conductor Microphone Cable to do it with, or should I stick with the star quad? Thanks!


----------



## Zorander

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zarathustra19* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, n00b question here guys. I'm thinking of making my own mini-to-mini cables, would it be possible to use Canare L-2T2S 2-Conductor Microphone Cable to do it with, or should I stick with the star quad? Thanks!_

 

You can use the 2 conductors for the L & R channels each (and use the shield as the combined ground). It's not the optimal/ideal configuration but that will work nonetheless.

 Cheers!


----------



## Muftobration

The original post says that 3/8" techflex will fit over Starquad tightly. If I get 1/4" that can stretch to 150% then will that fit?


----------



## odoe

I got a question, maybe someone can help me out.
 I want to make an RCA to mini and I got these RCA plugs
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=091-050

 They don't look like the RCA plugs used in the guide here though. They have a point for the channel to solder, but no place to solder ground. At least no place to really solder ground stable. There is a little screw that looks like it is used to clamp down a wire, but I am using silver teflon wires, so I don't really need that. I thought about taking the screw out and soldering ground there, but it's on the threaded area and if I solder there, I probably won't be able to get the sleeve back on. Should I try and solder to the screw? That would be tricky as it would be tough to get an tip in there.

 Has anyone used these connectors before? I didn't know they were like this. I would have just gotten the regular ones. Also, a silly question maybe, For a mini-mini, I have been using to wire per connection, for 6 total, can I get away with just 1 ground wire per RCA to make it easier to connect the 2 ground wires to the mini?

 Thanks in advance.

 Here are some pics in case my description sucks.





 the screw in threaded area





 and you can see the screw in the entry part here


----------



## SayNoToPistons

Just simply solder the ground to those two sides.


----------



## GlendaleViper

Would very much appreciate any assistance with regard to my question (posted at the top of the page). Thanks!


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GlendaleViper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would very much appreciate any assistance with regard to my question (posted at the top of the page). Thanks!_

 

I believe the answer is yes.


----------



## GlendaleViper

Thanks bud!


----------



## ronmtorres

guys, can anyone please teach me how to make an interconnect using a coaxial cable? i see there is only one wire inside the cable, so how do you do it? Thanks.


----------



## Zorander

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ronmtorres* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_guys, can anyone please teach me how to make an interconnect using a coaxial cable? i see there is only one wire inside the cable, so how do you do it? Thanks._

 

You use the shield braid as the ground.


----------



## ronmtorres

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zorander* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You use the shield braid as the ground._

 

Thanks, Zorander.
 Does anyone have pics of this? Please post them if you do..


----------



## threEchelon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ronmtorres* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Zorander.
 Does anyone have pics of this? Please post them if you do.._

 

Well, there's one up there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Here's another one though.






 With really tight shields, I solder one side of the shield and then cut the opposite side (lengthwise). Then I bend the shield away and compress it into a cylinder a bit. After I solder the shield to wherever, I flood the exposed shield with solder to make sure that all the wires of the shield are connected.

 With looser shields, I use the same method except I unbraid the shields, since it's pretty easy.


----------



## ronmtorres

thanks


----------



## Bushwacker

Hi, I am looking to make a rca-rca interconnect from cdp to amp. Currently looking at the canare starquad cable and neutrik rca jacks. Can I ask, is there a better cable than the starquad one can use for rca-rca?


----------



## snowball_rx-7

their are better cables. but not really for the money
 im partial to cardas quad. and huge amounts of SPC in a jena labs braid.


----------



## bellsprout

I'm thinking about a higher quality cable than Starquad too

 What are your opinions of Vampire, and Jena Cryo?


----------



## el_matt0

NVM


----------



## warnsey

Hi Guys,

 Just a quick question.

 I plan on making an RCA interconnect with 2 strands of silver and 2 strands of copper in teflon insulation and then litz braided. I then wanted to add a copper braid over the top for RFI/EMI shielding. 

 My question is... Should I attach the shield to the ground of both connectors, one connector or neither and just have it passive?

 Advice would be greatly appreciated 

 Cheers


----------



## Herbal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *warnsey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My question is... Should I attach the shield to the ground of both connectors, one connector or neither and just have it passive?_

 

Connect it to one end and then connect that end to your source components.

 The idea is that the braid will drain away any RFI/EMI/noise/ghosts from the subsequent amplification stages


----------



## Dave_M

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *warnsey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My question is... Should I attach the shield to the ground of both connectors, one connector or neither and just have it passive?_

 

Take a big metal rod, drive it into the ground, and solder the shield to that


----------



## elmer42

I have a question: How hard would it be to make one of these if you have no previous experience soldering? I would really like to know, because I am debating whether or not to make one.


----------



## Ech0

You should be fine. As good a place as any to start. The instructions provided here are very good (detailed).


----------



## elmer42

It doesn't seem too complicated. I think my first DIY project will be a ZVM LOD. There's a guide (here) that I will probably use to accompany this one. Thanks to the original poster for this great detailed guide.


----------



## LepakVT

I'm interested in making my first mini-to-mini and was wondering if I could get everything I need from a place like Radioshack? It'd be easier for me to go to the store than order everything online. Thanks!


----------



## elmer42

Quote:


 I'm interested in making my first mini-to-mini and was wondering if I could get everything I need from a place like Radioshack? It'd be easier for me to go to the store than order everything online. Thanks! 
 

I think you could get all your plugs and cabling at RadioShack, but it wouldn't be of as high quality as, for example, Canare Quadstar chord and Canare F-12 plugs.


----------



## LepakVT

That's perfectly fine for me, I'm just interested in the whole DIY thing and tinkering around with my new headphones and amp. I'm new to everything related to head-fi, so I'll start off taking baby steps.


----------



## elmer42

Once again, great guide. I am going to be using Canare Star Quad Microphone Cable. What size Techflex should I get? 1/4? 1/2? What type of heatshrink should I get? 3:1? 2:1? What size? 6 mm? 12 mm? I am at a total loss. Thanks in advance.


----------



## LepakVT

Crap I think I got the wrong kind of plugs today from radioshack. They looked like they would do the job, but I can't unscrew the part to get to the connectors inside.


 I'll just search this thread and/or google to find cheap plugs I can order online that will work.

 Or if someone who actually knows what to look for would be kind enough to link me to a radioshack page with a proper plug model, that'll be great for when I return the ones I bought. It'd be appreciated.


----------



## Ampersand

I'd like to make directional interconnects to accompany my other DIY cables. I'm using canare star quad and RCA connectors. 

 Should I use 2 conductors for signal, 2 connectors for ground at source end and 1 connector for ground at amp (with the other conductor not connected)?

 To anyone who has made directional cables, what was your method?

 And did you notice any sonic differences?


----------



## MusicallySilent

I am about to make a headphone extension cable (3.5 mm out to 3.5mm in) with 15feet of 300volt max cable from home depot (cost like 6 bucks) it has a sort of silverish look to the inside and it has 3 cables (it will be my first cable so I am gonna get local stuff)


----------



## Zorander

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MusicallySilent* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am about to make a headphone extension cable (3.5 mm out to 3.5mm in) with 15feet of 300volt max cable from home depot (cost like 6 bucks) it has a sort of silverish look to the inside and it has 3 cables (it will be my first cable so I am gonna get local stuff)_

 

Sounds like tinned copper.


----------



## MusicallySilent

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zorander* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds like tinned copper. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I would take a picture but I am not sure if my camera is capable (it sucks at macros )

 it was 40 cents or so a foot and it looks like cardboard or some paperish material holds the cords in place.... Will tinned copper provide ok sound?


----------



## threEchelon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ampersand* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to make directional interconnects to accompany my other DIY cables. I'm using canare star quad and RCA connectors. 

 Should I use 2 conductors for signal, 2 connectors for ground at source end and 1 connector for ground at amp (with the other conductor not connected)?

 To anyone who has made directional cables, what was your method?

 And did you notice any sonic differences?_

 

Directional cables are most commonly made with a shield (connected on one side) and a twisted pair. I _think_ that Kimber uses a basic three wire braid with a drain wire, but it could be empty tubing or connected at both ends; I can't remember for sure.

 To actually answer your question 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, with starquad, you would use two wires for signal, two wires for ground, and then connect the shield at the source end.


----------



## Ampersand

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *threEchelon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Directional cables are most commonly made with a shield (connected on one side) and a twisted pair. I think that Kimber uses a basic three wire braid with a drain wire, but it could be empty tubing or connected at both ends; I can't remember for sure.

 To actually answer your question 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, with starquad, you would use two wires for signal, two wires for ground, and then connect the shield at the source end._

 

Great, thanks! So, the RCA on the source end would have 2 conductors and the shield attached to the ground. 

 Any comments for or against these types of interconnects?


----------



## MusicallySilent

I just picked some wire up from radio shack and two jacks and I have some questions

 The wires label is 2 conducter plus Shield... Is it possible to make a mini jack stereo plug with this or not? I was confused as to whether or not the shield is the ground...

 Also I picked up some plugs to make an extension cable. how do you tell which is tip and which is left and right without a multimeter... I was thinking of the (double A battery wired up to a led through the jack?

 Thanks for your help


----------



## mADmAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MusicallySilent* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just picked some wire up from radio shack and two jacks and I have some questions

 The wires label is 2 conducter plus Shield... Is it possible to make a mini jack stereo plug with this or not? I was confused as to whether or not the shield is the ground..._

 

u can use the shield as ground and the other 2 as left and right...


----------



## MusicallySilent

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mADmAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_u can use the shield as ground and the other 2 as left and right..._

 

How would you use the shield as the ground... Would you crimp the shield around the ground connector and just leave it as that (if all else fails i will do that)


----------



## threEchelon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MusicallySilent* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How would you use the shield as the ground... Would you crimp the shield around the ground connector and just leave it as that (if all else fails i will do that)_

 

That's a poor cable geometry. I wouldn't recommend it. It's best not to use a shield connected at both ends.


----------



## mADmAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MusicallySilent* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How would you use the shield as the ground... Would you crimp the shield around the ground connector and just leave it as that (if all else fails i will do that)_

 

usually i unravel the shield and solder it to the ground..but the crimping works as well...id add abit of solder to it though to secure the connection...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *threEchelon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's a poor cable geometry. I wouldn't recommend it. It's best not to use a shield connected at both ends._

 

he doesnt really have much of a choice considering the cable he bought only has 2 conductors and a shield and he wants to use it for stereo.


----------



## LepakVT

Okay I'm about to purchase a good amount of star quad, heat shrink, and plugs, but first I want to make sure these Neutriks are good to use

 Part # NYS231BG on markertek. http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp...&search=0&off=


----------



## MonkeysAteMe

Thank you for this guide, it's very helpful!


----------



## omarmipi

I ordered some Neutrik NYS352G RCA plugs to make some interconnects for a car audio project. I opened the package and it contained a translucent plastic cylinder. What is the plastic part used for? Also where am I suppose to solder the ground?

 Here is a picture for reference:


----------



## threEchelon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *omarmipi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I ordered some Neutrik NYS352G RCA plugs to make some interconnects for a car audio project. I opened the package and it contained a translucent plastic cylinder. What is the plastic part used for? Also where am I suppose to solder the ground?

 Here is a picture for reference:



_

 

There's really no point to the plastic cylinder with an RCA. As long as the + connection doesn't touch the barrel, you'll be fine.

 You solder the ground to any part of the plug that isn't the center soldering cup. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Usually, you would solder the ground to the area right in front of the clampy piece.


----------



## threEchelon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay I'm about to purchase a good amount of star quad, heat shrink, and plugs, but first I want to make sure these Neutriks are good to use

 Part # NYS231BG on markertek. http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp...&search=0&off=_

 

Hmm. I think star quad may be too big for those unless you're willing to dremel the opening larger. I'd recommend using Switchcraft mini's. The best price for them is on www.audioadapter.com


----------



## Zyren

Hi guys. I have just started working on some DIY projects and i have purchased some materials to make an RCA interconnect. I bought a few feet of canare starquad cable and a few neutrik RCA plugs. However, i still am lookng for teflon and heat shrink. Can you guys link me to a site where i can buy these items thats ideal for an RCA interconnect with starquad cable?

 Thanks, here are the RCA plugs i purchased:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=092-112


----------



## xmokshax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay I'm about to purchase a good amount of star quad, heat shrink, and plugs, but first I want to make sure these Neutriks are good to use

 Part # NYS231BG on markertek. http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp...&search=0&off=_

 

as threEchelon said a few days ago, those Neutriks are too small for Star Quad. in fact, i looked into getting some Star Quad Mini, because i bought a couple of pairs of Neutrik plugs as well, and even that won't fit without modification. the Neutrik minis will accomodate cabling up to 4mm O.D., and Star Quad is 6mm while Mini is 4.8mm.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zyren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys. I have just started working on some DIY projects and i have purchased some materials to make an RCA interconnect. I bought a few feet of canare starquad cable and a few neutrik RCA plugs. However, i still am lookng for teflon and heat shrink. Can you guys link me to a site where i can buy these items thats ideal for an RCA interconnect with starquad cable?

 Thanks, here are the RCA plugs i purchased:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=092-112_

 

heat shrink you can get many places... i just bought materials to build myself some interconnects as well, and i got 3:1 heatshrink and techflex sleeving from www.partsexpress.com . they sell heatshrink a couple of feet at a time, and techflex in 25' increments. prices seem to be pretty good, and they don't screw you on shipping (a relatively light order can be shipped USPS first-class for around $3).


----------



## GiR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RnB180* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the teflon wire comes with its own insulation, then you can do standard tri braid (like braiding hair) and use a multimeter to connect gourn, left, right.

 or you can do litz braid for rca y-splitter 2=ground 1=left 1=right

 you would then use flex expandable sleeving and cover it up._

 

This is quite an old quote, but still  it is said many times around these places you can just chuck the techflex stuff (or whatever alternative you are using) over the braided teflon wire, doesnt that end up with the cable being all bumpy? i'm sure some people like this and I wouldn't mind a cable or two like that, but if i wanted a nice smooth cable (sorta the way starquad stuff looks) but DIYing it myself from some "26(dunno what size is best) AWG Silver plated copper wire with teflon insulation" that I was looking at on ebay, what would you advise? just going to a hardware store and trying to find some thin tubing that fits inside whatever connector i decide to use?

 Also, on a side note. I remeber somewhere reading about some sort of shielding being needed more in europe due to interference from mobile phones i think, something about being on a different network type than in the states. Anyone able to shed light on that? I thought the braiding would be sufficient, but not 100% sure.


----------



## threEchelon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GiR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is quite an old quote, but still  it is said many times around these places you can just chuck the techflex stuff (or whatever alternative you are using) over the braided teflon wire, doesnt that end up with the cable being all bumpy? i'm sure some people like this and I wouldn't mind a cable or two like that, but if i wanted a nice smooth cable (sorta the way starquad stuff looks) but DIYing it myself from some "26(dunno what size is best) AWG Silver plated copper wire with teflon insulation" that I was looking at on ebay, what would you advise? just going to a hardware store and trying to find some thin tubing that fits inside whatever connector i decide to use?

 Also, on a side note. I remeber somewhere reading about some sort of shielding being needed more in europe due to interference from mobile phones i think, something about being on a different network type than in the states. Anyone able to shed light on that? I thought the braiding would be sufficient, but not 100% sure._

 

Sheathing the cable with cotton before sheathing it with techflex reduces bumpiness. Thin wire helps as well.


----------



## Fred333

Very nice guide. I really like the use of pics.


----------



## Captain ?degard

Made a few video guides on how to change audio jacks and splice cables... might be helpful: http://captain-odegard.com/audiojacks.html


----------



## Fred333

Oh, videos are even better thanks. Hopefully I will get to my project this weekend.


----------



## Televator

As so many have said before me: this is a helpful guide... thanks!

 I just made my very first DIY-cable ever: 10cm mini->mini consisting of a teflon/kapton covered 24awg spc round tri-braid into neutrik gold-plated plugs







 *edit: I did a minor correction on the cable (shortened/readjusted the nylon sleeve a bit) so I replaced the pic as well


----------



## bigjim82

Thanks to everyone for all the great info in this thread.

 Just completed my first two DIY cables - a mini to mini and a 1/4 to mini headphone adapter (in anticipation of getting SR225's).


----------



## haibane

Guys what do you use for 1/4" female connectors? I want to make a 1/4 to mini


----------



## bigjim82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haibane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guys what do you use for 1/4" female connectors? I want to make a 1/4 to mini_

 

I used this one from Radio Shack http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search


----------



## GiR

Anyone know a good place to order rca and 3.5mm plugs from in europe? shipping from anywhere i have checked in usa is the same as the stuff i want, a 50 dollar order becomes 100 dollars with shipping 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also if they do techflexx/nylon stuff too that would rock 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks


----------



## Televator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GiR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know a good place to order rca and 3.5mm plugs from in europe?_

 

if you order over €50, you can order from farnell (at least in Belgium) and they offer a lot of stuff (neutrik plugs, some switchcraft, nylon multifilament etc.)

 otherwise RS components is an option as well, but they have a smaller selection and I haven't found any good sheeting solutions (techflex or nylon multifilament or anything alike) with them


----------



## omarmipi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zyren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you guys link me to a site where i can buy these items thats ideal for an RCA interconnect with starquad cable?_

 

Instead of starquad get some Gepco 61801EZ. And here is the techflex on partsexpress.


----------



## brschmid

nice to see this thread is still going


----------



## adfinni

This is also posted over at zerogain.com

 Here's my new DIY stereo IC build, based on the chris venhaus 'double helix' design (DIY Fine Silver Interconnects). Im building x3 cables to be used to connect up my Marantz cd-63 / emu 0404 sources to my arcam integrated / Millett MAX headphone amp via my switchbox (also being build atm). Im going for a silver theme and am using the following parts:

*- 0.5mm silver wire (thanks pete)
 - 22 AWG teflon tubing to encase the wire
 - 3 AWG teflon tubing 
 - Yarbo Silver plated RCA plugs
 - 11cm diameter cotton tubing
 - White heatshrink (if fit fits)*







 My current IC is a 'Mark Grant' 1m cable ive been using for the past year. I purchased it from the power buy thread over at avforums, and i have to say it's an excellent cable for the money (£25 for 0.5m or 1m)and it has crimped Canare RCAs on Canare LV61S cable.................................


 Right, firstly i found out after some dummy runs with the cotton sheething over the thick teflon tubing, that the tubing was far to rigid and prone to serious kinking with more than a slight bend in it. this could shear the wire off if it was actually built and used.

 So i poped along to our local 'Focus' and picked up some 5mm 'poly tubing' which is PVC tubing. As you can see from the pic it is a lot easier to work with.







 [size=medium]The Build [/size]

 This is for a 0.5m IC.

*DISCLAIMER*: I don't take any responsibility for people blowing channels on there equipment due to incorrect wiring up of the IC's. This is a simple guide of how i made mine, which can be followed to make a similar set of IC's.

*[1]*
 - Cut x2 0.5m lengths of 5mm diameter polytubing.
 - Mark out 2 inch intervals all along the tubing, followed by 1 inch intervals in between the 2 inch ones.
 - [TEST] Wrap the thin 0.8mm diameter teflon tubing around, hitting the 2 inch intervals. Once desired length is verified cut off, and repeat for a second piece.

 - Cut a small hole 20mm from each end of the polytubing to allow signal and ground wire to be protected inside the polytubing near the RCA plug.
 - Feed in silver wire to x4 of the 0.8mm teflon tubing, and cut off leaving 10mm excess sticking out.
 - Wrap x2 silver containing teflon cables around hitting the marks, and push them through the holes near the end of the polytubing.

 What it should all look like






*[2]*
 - Cut off x2 pieces of 30-40mm length black and red heatshrink.
 - Slide on and use heatsource to shrink it. 

 This provides a tacky and strong surface for the securing RCA screw to grip into. It also restores some of the strength of the polytubing lost when the holes were cut into each end, preventing fatigue from occuring during plugging/un-plugging.







*[3]*
 - Slide 10mm diameter cotton sheething over each cable assembly, stopping at the end of the polytubing.
 - NOT shown in the pic is the additional bit of electrical tape put over the ends of the cotton to prevent fraying and allow easy assembly through the RCA outer casings and RCA plug itself.






*[4]*
 - *TEST continuity* of wires with a multimeter and mark your signal and ground anyway you chose. I used a permanent marker pen on the little bit of teflon tubing covering the wire as the ground.
 - Unscrew RCA and slide both outer parts onto each end of the cables before sliding the actually RCA assembly on.
 - Cut excess silver wire to correct size. 
 - *Test continuity of wires again* to ensure they arn't mixed up. A mistake here could lead to blown channels on your equipment.

*[5]*
 - Wrap and insert the correct signal and ground wires into the RCA plugs and solder them up with some silver solder.

 As the ground wire was soldered near to the outer casing on my plugs, it prevented the casings from being screwed on properly, so i just took a stanley knife and reduced the height of the solder.






*[6]*

 - Screw outer casing back over the RCA.
 - Insert clamping screw through casing on the back of the RCA and tighten up.

 Check continuity again on the actual signal pin of the RCA and ground of the surround.

 Plug in and enjoy.......................

 A few pics now, the rest are in the DIY Cable gallery thread.


----------



## iQEM

nice thread, i'm gonna subscribe it for sure !


----------



## djbob

Very Nice and professional, Adfinni. I just got all the parts for a similiar set and will be assembling them shortly. If mine turn out half as good as yours I'll be happy.

 Great job.


----------



## iQEM

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zarathustra19* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, n00b question here guys. I'm thinking of making my own mini-to-mini cables, would it be possible to use Canare L-2T2S 2-Conductor Microphone Cable to do it with, or should I stick with the star quad? Thanks!_

 

x2

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zorander* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can use the 2 conductors for the L & R channels each (and use the shield as the combined ground). It's not the optimal/ideal configuration but that will work nonetheless.

 Cheers!_

 

got picts ? thx...


----------



## gallardo88

anybody know where I could locking 1/8 jacks? I'm trying to make an extension with a 1/8 locking jack on one side and a 1/4 plug on the other side.
 Also, what are some other good alternatives to starquad?
 thanks,


----------



## silencewithin

I didn't know anything about diy'ing cables until I read this thread and similar resources.

 My advice after my first foray into making cables is that trying to shrink heat-shrink tubing on a gas cook-top/burner doesn't work that well... I melted/charred my yellow heat-shrink because I wasn't careful enough and it was a bit too hot. It was ineffective and only by sheer luck was I able to salvage the appearance of that cable! Be generous with material length and it shall be generous back.
 It works but it was easy to ruin the tubing.

 I now have to figure out how I'll shrink the other 75cm of (black, which will make it easier...) heatshrink... hair-dryer did nothing, soldering iron is ok, but slow. I'll try a match 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A heat-gun will probably save you some trouble! That or techflex-like sleeving.

 A multimeter with continuity checking function is very good too. Much better than looking at a display to read resistance, just listen for the buzz.

 Also, stripping the grey sheat off cat-5 cable took me a long, long time. I used very fine and pointed-bladed scissors.

 This thread was a big help. Cheers.


----------



## Hellboy

Would anybody be willing to help out a new guy with little skills. I just brought my first mini amp and I need a mini to mini cable to run my Zune to the amp
 Thanks


----------



## Lil' Knight

I'm thinking about making a new IC using 18G Cryo Jena Labs cable.
 However after doing some googling, I still can't find any store selling it. Does anyone here know where sell this cable?


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking about making a new IC using 18G Cryo Jena Labs cable.
 However after doing some googling, I still can't find any store selling it. Does anyone here know where sell this cable?_

 

Have you perhaps tried getting it from Jena Labs?


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FallenAngel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you perhaps tried getting it from Jena Labs? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Maybe I'm a real noob, but if I could find Jena website, I wouldn't ask here


----------



## Foe-hammer

What ratio, and what size of heat shrink is needed for the star quad? In particular, i'm using it to go inside the connector to bind the techflex to the starquad cable.

 I'm looking at the partsexpress selection...

 2:1 or 3:1?

 2:1 sizes come in standard units. And i'd assume 3/8" would be the correct size?

 3:1 comes in metric. the closest would be 6mm or 12mm. But i'd think 6mm would be too small, while the 12mm too large?


 Any help is greatly appreciated...


----------



## geestring

im planning on making a rca to rca interconnect. It seems that the cardas 4x24 is popular? is it a good cable? its going to cost me $9.5 per foot.
 is there something better for not too much more?


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *geestring* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_im planning on making a rca to rca interconnect. It seems that the cardas 4x24 is popular? is it a good cable? its going to cost me $9.5 per foot.
 is there something better for not too much more?_

 

It's a nice cable, but I wouldn't want to pay that much, look at Michael Percy Audio Ordering Information it sells for $5.75/ft. I like Mogami 2534 as well, at about $1/ft from Redco Audio


----------



## Foe-hammer

Or just get the Canare Star Quad mic cable for $.45 ft. Not much difference between it and the Mogami mic cable.


----------



## geestring

do they sell to canada?


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *geestring* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_do they sell to canada?_

 

First instinct to say "Go and check" aside, yes they do.


----------



## mADmAN

guys.... mADmAN needs an answer to questions on SPDIF coaxial cable.... (Maya44 coaxial out to external DAC)

 wats the MINIMUM & MAXIMUM length for such a cable? i need to make one and have all the parts... but i just need something like half a metre. is it necessary to make 1.5 or 2 metres? coz all the ones ive seen are usually 1.5 or 2 metres long.

 hope to get an answer asap...thanks in advance


----------



## Nebby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mADmAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_guys.... mADmAN needs an answer to questions on SPDIF coaxial cable.... (Maya44 coaxial out to external DAC)

 wats the MINIMUM & MAXIMUM length for such a cable? i need to make one and have all the parts... but i just need something like half a metre. is it necessary to make 1.5 or 2 metres? coz all the ones ive seen are usually 1.5 or 2 metres long.

 hope to get an answer asap...thanks in advance_

 

For future reference, if you had searched on google for "maximum spdif length" you would have gotten your answer without ever posting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 It appears that 10 meters is the maximum reccomended. 

 More important than length (assuming that you're sticking to 1.5-2m for length) is that the cable must have a 75ohm impedence.


----------



## mADmAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nebby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For future reference, if you had searched on google for "maximum spdif length" you would have gotten your answer without ever posting. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It appears that 10 meters is the maximum reccomended. 

 More important than length (assuming that you're sticking to 1.5-2m for length) is that the cable must have a 75ohm impedence._

 

that answers my max length question (which isnt that important to me actually...just wanted to know for reference) but i still need an answer on the more important one... MINIMUM length.

 as i said above, i already have the parts...i already have the 75ohm Canare LV-61S cable to use (with F10 RCA)...just need to know whats the minimum length required for rca coaxial spdif cable.

 EDIT: yes, ive googled...couldnt find anything


----------



## Nebby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mADmAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_that answers my max length question (which isnt that important to me actually...just wanted to know for reference) but i still need an answer on the more important one... MINIMUM length.

 as i said above, i already have the parts...i already have the 75ohm Canare LV-61S cable to use (with F10 RCA)...just need to know whats the minimum length required for rca coaxial spdif cable.

 EDIT: yes, ive googled...couldnt find anything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

At the 4-5 pages I looked at showed no mention of a minimum length. For the price I say make the 1/2 meter cable and let us know if it works. There shouldn't be any reason it doesn't. And if you really wanted to know you can pay the $200 something for the IEC spec document 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 For what it's worth when I was testing my dac I used used two short pieces of 24awg wire to connect my dac to a test source, and it played. Didn't listen to it much, but it did play


----------



## mADmAN

oh well...i discovered a site that said something like... "anything 0.5metres or above should use the 75ohm cable bla bla bla"

 so i just took 0.5 as the minimum and cut out 0.7 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 anyway...already did the cable which can be seen HERE

 dunno if it works though...can only find out when i get to the office tomorrow..wish me luck


----------



## FrederikS|TPU

Any good sites based in Europe where you can buy all the stuff needed?


----------



## MusicallySilent

Qables is based in europe.. about 90% sure

Qables | High Quality Custom Made Qables

 That is their diy options so you can get connecters there, they are slightly more expensive then for cable you can always get Cat5 or some local cable


----------



## WallyWest

Didn't read the whole thread (63 pages OMG), so sorry if this has been covered.

 I'm planning on making some mono RCA-RCA interconnects. Would be used for pre-outs to amp. Anyway, I've seen several types of cable used for this and I don't really understand the difference. 

 The cable I was looking at was Canare GS6 guitar cable. Basically a heavy duty, well shielded coax. But then I see that some RCA IC's are made from twisted pair. Is one of these better than the other, or is it a toss up? 

 Thanks.


----------



## mADmAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WallyWest* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Didn't read the whole thread (63 pages OMG), so sorry if this has been covered.

 I'm planning on making some mono RCA-RCA interconnects. Would be used for pre-outs to amp. Anyway, I've seen several types of cable used for this and I don't really understand the difference. 

 The cable I was looking at was Canare GS6 guitar cable. Basically a heavy duty, well shielded coax. But then I see that some RCA IC's are made from twisted pair. Is one of these better than the other, or is it a toss up? 

 Thanks._

 

i have yet to see anyone making RCAs with the GS6.... its doable...but i dunno how good it is...

 most Canare cable used for any sort of interconnect would be the L-4E6S (star quad - 4 core twusted & shielded) and the L-2T2S (2 core twisted & shielded).


----------



## runnin17

Anyone know where I can find a screw-on 3.5mm plug to make my own Ultrasone PRO 2500 cables?

 I have searched everywhere and for some reason can't find what I am looking for.


----------



## mADmAN

screw on? meaning no soldering?

 i got mine from Radioshack in San Francisco when i was there a couple of years ago.

 no soldering needed..u just screw the cables to the points....truthfully...id stick with soldering..easier to work with coz i kinda broke mine ahahahhaha


----------



## Mr. Tadashi

He is referring to a plug that is threaded at the base so it will screw in the the cup so I won't fall out when it wants to. I believe qables has one.


----------



## seanohue

What wire do you guys recommend for headphone recabling? I'm going to recable my new HFI-780s 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've done a dozen or so IC's with silver plated copper, but I'm not sure what is best for headphones.


----------



## Bonthouse

Qables has custom(?) screw-on cables specialy for Ultrasones. I bought a pair, and they are very nice! Here you go


----------



## Scab_Wounds

I recently bought a Switchcraft 35HDNN plug to replace the broken plug on my AKG K81 DJ headphones, and when i went to replace the plug by following the first page of this topic i was unsuccessful. Can anyone explain to me exactly were i have to solder the wires, to get my headphones to work? Im going away on friday and NEED my headphones, so if anyone can help ASAP that would be greatly appreciated.

 Again im trying to use a Switchcraft 35HDNN plug and the standard wire on my K81 DJs.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Scab_Wounds* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently bought a Switchcraft 35HDNN plug to replace the broken plug on my AKG K81 DJ headphones, and when i went to replace the plug by following the first page of this topic i was unsuccessful. Can anyone explain to me exactly were i have to solder the wires, to get my headphones to work? Im going away on friday and NEED my headphones, so if anyone can help ASAP that would be greatly appreciated.

 Again im trying to use a Switchcraft 35HDNN plug and the standard wire on my K81 DJs._

 

I don't have any in front of me, but the long part with the clamp is the ground. The other 2 are for left and right, but I can't recall which is which without looking at one. Are you getting no sound at all?

 Did you tear open the one you're replacing to look how it is connected. All these plugs are similar so you should get some idea from the old one.


----------



## Pars

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mADmAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_that answers my max length question (which isnt that important to me actually...just wanted to know for reference) but i still need an answer on the more important one... MINIMUM length.

 as i said above, i already have the parts...i already have the 75ohm Canare LV-61S cable to use (with F10 RCA)...just need to know whats the minimum length required for rca coaxial spdif cable.

 EDIT: yes, ive googled...couldnt find anything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

In order to minimize the effect of reflections, you probably want a digital cable to be at least 1.5m. Longer is probably better. The F10 RCAs you are using are not 75 ohm (nor are the Canare RCAPs) also. If you still have some cable and some connectors left over, try a longer one and see if you can hear any differences between it and the 0.7m one you did.

 You can look around on DIYHiFi.org for more technical info if you wish.


----------



## cyberspyder

I believe it's .org, not .com...


----------



## jonjon0nline

I'm a complete noob at this, but I have a quick question.

 Does it matter what kind of copper wire I use to make an IC? I have tons of copper speaker wire at home that I'd like to use. I'll probably just buy the plugs @ Radioshack. Main reason-- I want to practice and make sure I'm doing it correctly before I junk up some good stuff I buy. I don't care if quality won't be great, I just want to be sure I can get it to work. Thanks.


----------



## HiGHFLYiN9

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jonjon0nline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does it matter what kind of copper wire I use to make an IC? I have tons of copper speaker wire at home that I'd like to use. I'll probably just buy the plugs @ Radioshack. Main reason-- I want to practice and make sure I'm doing it correctly before I junk up some good stuff I buy. I don't care if quality won't be great, I just want to be sure I can get it to work. Thanks._

 

RCA to RCA? Chances are, your generic speaker wire is around 16-18 gauge, which is on the large side for an RCA to RCA IC, but should still work if there's enough room in the RCAs you're using. Your average RCA interconnect is around 24 gauge, but I've seen designs running from 16-28. 

 I'd personally track down some Canare or Mogami Microphone cable for 30-60 cents a foot, something 22-24 gauge. It's great starter cable because it's the ideal size and it's cheap. Either that or order some silver plated copper on ebay and start experimenting with braiding techniques.

 Good luck, be safe and have fun


----------



## Cookie Monster

Hey, I'd like to know what size of techflex I need for the Canare Starquad. 
 Also, are there any wire alternatives other than the starquad? 
 And lastly, there are any sonic differences between the starquad and say the HGA silver braid? 
 Thanks


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cookie Monster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, I'd like to know what size of techflex I need for the Canare Starquad. 
 Also, are there any wire alternatives other than the starquad? 
 And lastly, there are any sonic differences between the starquad and say the HGA silver braid? 
 Thanks_

 

1) Look at the outer diameter of the Canare Starquad you want, then buy the size techflex that matches it.

 2) There are millions of wire alternatives, look at any audio store under wire.

 3) Yes, there is a sonic difference.

 Hope that helped


----------



## Cookie Monster

Thank you Fallen Angel. I hope you can clarify few more questions for me.

 1)The Canare Starquad Canare L-4E6S Star Quad Micophone Cable at Markertek.com here states a diameter of 21AWG. Is that the diameter of the entire cable or just the wiring? I haven't seen any techflex that are less than .25 inch in diameter so what should I do?

 2)Is it okay if I use 60/40 solder?


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Cookie Monster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you Fallen Angel. I hope you can clarify few more questions for me.

 1)The Canare Starquad Canare L-4E6S Star Quad Micophone Cable at Markertek.com here states a diameter of 21AWG. Is that the diameter of the entire cable or just the wiring? I haven't seen any techflex that are less than .25 inch in diameter so what should I do?

 2)Is it okay if I use 60/40 solder?_

 

1) Each of the four cables in that starquad is 21AWG, the outer diameter on the cable is 6mm (.236"), 1/4" should fit it snugly, 3/8" would be a nicer choie.

 2) I prefer Kester #44 63/37


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FallenAngel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2) I prefer Kester #44 63/37_

 

x2!!!!

 Eutectic solder is much better for DIY.


----------



## ggk

i was wondering if i could make a 4 channel cable through 1 run of canare quad star.

 is it ok to run the ground throught the braid? and to use one common ground ?


----------



## jamess71

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hayduke* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_x2!!!!

 Eutectic solder is much better for DIY._

 

x3.....

 It flows better and leaves a nicer shiny finish when you have a solid joint. 

 ggk that will work unless you are talking a balanced circuit that you are connecting. 

 James


----------



## Pars

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ggk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i was wondering if i could make a 4 channel cable through 1 run of canare quad star.

 is it ok to run the ground throught the braid? and to use one common ground ?_

 

Technically, yes it would work assuming the ground (-) signals are common between all 4 channels. Some practical reasons not to do so however:

The shield in Canare Starquad is steel, not copper. If it were copper (like Mogami 2534), I would say OK.
Potential crosstalk. Starquad is 2 twisted pairs, IIRC. There will be no attenuation of crosstalk; the typical 2 ch. use of Starquad uses one of each pair for ground, which does attenuate crosstalk and noise.


----------



## jonjon0nline

What happens if one signal end is connected to tip and on the other end is connected to ring? Since you can't really tell with the Canare Starquad would it make a difference if the signal is oriented like that?

 I'm having issues with one cable where when fully plugged in I only get left signal and only when I unplug it some I get both channels working. Then again I'm using Radioshack plugs for that one, but I can't see how that would matter.


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jonjon0nline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What happens if one signal end is connected to tip and on the other end is connected to ring? Since you can't really tell with the Canare Starquad would it make a difference if the signal is oriented like that?

 I'm having issues with one cable where when fully plugged in I only get left signal and only when I unplug it some I get both channels working. Then again I'm using Radioshack plugs for that one, but I can't see how that would matter._

 

That's why you check with your DMM to see that you don't mix the wires. If one is tip (left channel) on the other side it's the ring (right channel), well, you get the idea, they'll just be flipped.

 I can never understand why people do this "unplug slightly" thing, you are shorting out the right channel when you do this and are sending the left signal to both left/right. This can be a very dangerous thing on some equipment (tubes, discrete buffers, buffers without short-circuit protection), all of those can and will blow up under these conditions.


----------



## jonjon0nline

Oh wow, I'm a noob. I don't know why I didn't think of that... thanks


----------



## Nicolas2305

Hi there,

 I'm completely new to the audiophile world and this forum wich i discovered a week ago and just passed my free time reading since then.

 I've read all the pages in here(took some time with the links) and I saw some braided and some not. I decided to do some cables but I can't decide on doing it braided with four 18-20 speaker wire or with some canare starquad.

 It's clear that the starquad will have a more sleek look but will I be able to percieve any difference in the sound between these two choices?

 I will of course make some test runs to see what are my abilities before working on any high end parts but I'd like to know where I'm going.

 Thanks.

 BTW: Nice tutorial on all the DIY process !


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jonjon0nline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What happens if one signal end is connected to tip and on the other end is connected to ring? Since you can't really tell with the Canare Starquad would it make a difference if the signal is oriented like that?

 I'm having issues with one cable where when fully plugged in I only get left signal and only when I unplug it some I get both channels working. Then again I'm using Radioshack plugs for that one, but I can't see how that would matter._

 

What are you plugging into? There are some vendors out there that make plugs and sockets that don't exactly comply to the industry standard for some connectors. Unfortunately, so equipment manufacturers use these parts


----------



## jonjon0nline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hayduke* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What are you plugging into? There are some vendors out there that make plugs and sockets that don't exactly comply to the industry standard for some connectors. Unfortunately, so equipment manufacturers use these parts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They were going into Radioshack jacks, the ones that look like Switchcraft. It's a non-issue now that I wired them up correctly. Pics of new IC's later tonight


----------



## Nicolas2305

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nicolas2305* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi there,

 I'm completely new to the audiophile world and this forum wich i discovered a week ago and just passed my free time reading since then.

 I've read all the pages in here(took some time with the links) and I saw some braided and some not. I decided to do some cables but I can't decide on doing it braided with four 18-20 speaker wire or with some canare starquad.

 It's clear that the starquad will have a more sleek look but will I be able to percieve any difference in the sound between these two choices?

 I will of course make some test runs to see what are my abilities before working on any high end parts but I'd like to know where I'm going.

 Thanks.

 BTW: Nice tutorial on all the DIY process !_

 

bump!

 I posted this few posts before, I wanted if there is some significant advantage in the braided cables. I know they should be free of any electric noise since they don't have any shielding.

 I assume they should be better than a starquad since you got more wires to transfer your signal but is this significant for the extra time worth of braiding?


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nicolas2305* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_bump!

 I posted this few posts before, I wanted if there is some significant advantage in the braided cables. I know they should be free of any electric noise since they don't have any shielding.

 I assume they should be better than a starquad since you got more wires to transfer your signal but is this significant for the extra time worth of braiding?_

 

The braiding helps to minimize EMI. I think the starquad cable achieves this through shielding instead. I suppose the ideal solution would be to braid a shielded cable 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There is also an aesthetic element. Some folks like the look of braided cables. Some folks don't. I like to braid the cables and then put them inside something like techflex, but this can increase microphonics depending on what you use and how the cable it built.


----------



## Nicolas2305

Thanks for your answer. 

 As I tought, there's not much difference in the performance of the cable and it's much more an aesthetis element than anything else.

 Thanks again! I should start doing cables when I'm back home, I already have some friends who want some custom cables so I might be able to collect some money to invest in a DIY portable amp like the cMoy or Mini^3!!


----------



## mace2

Hi I am trying to pick up some wire strippers in preparation for ordering.. just wondering what guage of wire it should handle? I see some 8-20, 10-22, and 10-26?

 Help appreciated, thanks!


----------



## Casca

Hi, read many of the post here as well as searching and reading some more in the DIY section, but still wanted to get a /nod before I /buy and pay the shipping fee from New York to Hawaii.

 I'd like to make two short (just long enough to connect portable amp to MP3 player) and two long (@3' to 5') 3.5mm to 3.5mm interconnects for my amps to source. Two 3.5mm to 1/4 (actually not a 1/4 connector, but looks very close to that...its what we use in our intercom system on military airplanes and if the 1/4 is no good, might just have to raid our tweet shop) interconnect. Pretty set for what I need here, just stating it for an idea on how much cableing I might need.

 Also like to make four detachable headphone re-cabling projects:

 A Grado SR80 and a Denon D2000-
 Was planning on putting 2.5mm jacks on the Grado and 3.5mm jacks for the Denon, was there a better way to do it, how bad is putting a jack here instead of connecting straight to the headphones?



 Then my flight headsets, a  David Clark  with no active noise reduction and a FlightCom UME Cobra with active noise reduction that I never use..cause it sucks. Both have adjustable volume control which I would like to keep and mic booms and I think both under 20 ohms. Will I be able to use the same cable (Mogami 2534) for these headphones in order to use the mic or will I need something else?

 Anyway, I have in my cart 100' of Mogami 2534 cable and enough 3.5mm plugs (right angle and straight) and jacks (may get 2.5mm as well just for the Grado) to do what I want plus some spares just incase. Should I get more cable? Looks like going for the 164' spool is $30 more and with shipping, it's cheaper for me if I buy as much as I might need at once. If this works out well, I may hook my nephews (3) and neices (2) up with recabled Grado SR 80's for Christmass


----------



## tomjonesrocks

I did a variety of searches in this thread for clarification unsuccessfully--in the case of the mini-to-mini cable (with switchcraft right-angle plugs), the Canare cable has 4 wires. 2 wires clearly go to right/left, and the third goes to ground. 

 I'm still unsure where the 4th (positive) wire goes?


----------



## cyberspyder

Two for ground, two for L/R signal.


----------



## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tomjonesrocks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did a variety of searches in this thread for clarification unsuccessfully--in the case of the mini-to-mini cable (with switchcraft right-angle plugs), the Canare cable has 4 wires. 2 wires clearly go to right/left, and the third goes to ground. 

 I'm still unsure where the 4th (positive) wire goes?_

 

1 wire Left
 1 wire Right
 2 wires Ground

 EDIT: Also, I'm sure the answer is here somewhere, but the search feature on the site can be tricky and tough to use. Sometimes it is better to use Google to search the site.

 EDIT EDIT: Of course, there's also this portion of the first post of the thread:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brschmid* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
*Step3:* Reference Pic 3
 Now you will see 4 wires. Pick 2 of them and designate them as ground and then the other 2 are left and right. Cut the insulation off the ground wires and solder them to the part of the plug that corresponds to ground, usually the part of the connector that has the most surface area and has threading on it for the cover to screw on to. 
_


----------



## tomjonesrocks

I can't believe I'm posting this...but after 2 hours of work and no success I have to give up and ask.

 *How* do you get the wires to "stick" to the ground part of the jack? I'm soldering and soldering and simply wind up with a big blob that is attached to the wires but comes right off the jack. What's the trick? Do you have to sand that part of the jack or something?

 Thanks...


----------



## The Monkey

I've had that happen. Maybe try the following:

 1) Make sure the soldering iron is clean, turn it up a bit, and tin it.
 2) Tin the ground wires, then solder to ground lug.


----------



## tomjonesrocks

I must be fundamentally missing something here. I'm spending so much time trying to get this one ground connection with not so much as a hint of success I'm wondering if my equipment or something isn't up to the task. 

 I'm using Lead Free Rosin Core Silver Bearing Solder and a as-clean-as-it-is-going-to-get-cleaning-with-a-damp-sponge (as well as a bit old) $8.99 15-Watt Soldering Iron with Grounded Tip Soldering Iron from Radio Shack. Are most of you using some dramatically different equipment? This connection just won't stick for me. I'm by no means a pro solderer, but this ground connection seems to be solder kryptonite.

 Thanks again, 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've had that happen. Maybe try the following:

 1) Make sure the soldering iron is clean, turn it up a bit, and tin it.
 2) Tin the ground wires, then solder to ground lug._


----------



## Juniper

I just finished a cable per these instructions and am getting some crosstalk. The left bleeds a little into the right but the right will isolate if i mute the left... any ideas?


----------



## UglyJoe

What is the proper way to twist two wires together to make them look nice and maintain the twist well?

 I've got some of the 20awg Vampire wire from Percy audio and I'm going to make a Ipod LOD to RCA with it. I was planning on using the 4-wire braid from Braids for the braid from the LOD to the split, then a two wire twist to the RCA's, similar to a cable that ALO sells. However, it looks like the 2-wire twist would just unravel... how is this stopped from happening?


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *UglyJoe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the proper way to twist two wires together to make them look nice and maintain the twist well?

 I've got some of the 20awg Vampire wire from Percy audio and I'm going to make a Ipod LOD to RCA with it. I was planning on using the 4-wire braid from Braids for the braid from the LOD to the split, then a two wire twist to the RCA's, similar to a cable that ALO sells. However, it looks like the 2-wire twist would just unravel... how is this stopped from happening?_

 

When you secure the ends it shouldn't untwist. You do need to actually get some twist into the wire. Not a lot


----------



## UglyJoe

So what is the best way to do this? Is it best to braid the IC the way you want it then terminate it, or should I terminate one end (say at the LOD), braid, then terminate? And when doing the twist is it simply twisting both at the same time, or one around the other (I'm sure it's the former, but asking for my own sanity)? How tightly should I twist it?


----------



## Pars

For two wires, I normally chuck them up in a drill, and keeping the two loose ends apart, use that to twist them. Play around with it a bit in terms of how tightly you let it twist them. Works quite well.


----------



## UglyJoe

So in this case would you do that for two sets of wires to about the same length, then start the 4 wire braid from that point?


 EDIT: Meh, I'm only going to have about 4-5 inches after the Y split, maybe less. I think I'll just do that by hand. Thanks though.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *UglyJoe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So in this case would you do that for two sets of wires to about the same length, then start the 4 wire braid from that point?


 EDIT: Meh, I'm only going to have about 4-5 inches after the Y split, maybe less. I think I'll just do that by hand. Thanks though._

 

braid the 4 wire section first. You have no secured one end. Now twist the 2 pairs and then terminate them. They should hold the twist. What I do is twist it tighter then I want the final result to account for some loosening that will happen.


----------



## UglyJoe

Thanks, Hayduke.

 Second question, and really just looking for aesthetic opinions here: I am going to be terminating the cable with Vampire 800C RCAs. The twisted pair is obviously going to look a little silly and probably be pretty wobbly entering the RCAs. I was considering using some black heatshrink around the two wires where they enter the plugs to bulk them up a bit and give some strain relief, and then some clear heatshrink around the outside of the RCA to about a .5 cm beyond where the black heat shrink ends. Does this sound like a good approach? Also, I have two options for the black heatshrink. I have some nicer looking heatshrink that has glue on the inside. It will look cleaner I think, but will be stiff and obviously not great strain relief. The other black heatshink is normal, but has some lettering on the outside that displeases me aesthetically. If I use the former, will the added clear heat shrink give enough strain relief that I don't need to worry about it, or would it be better to use the more flexible black heatshrink as well?


----------



## Juniper

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Juniper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just finished a cable per these instructions and am getting some crosstalk. The left bleeds a little into the right but the right will isolate if i mute the left... any ideas?_

 

I fixed it, so disregard. Had a stray piece of copper wire touching the metal outer wall of the casing. (weak solder work :/ ) If I can get my camera working I'll post a pic.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *UglyJoe* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, Hayduke.

 Second question, and really just looking for aesthetic opinions here: I am going to be terminating the cable with Vampire 800C RCAs. The twisted pair is obviously going to look a little silly and probably be pretty wobbly entering the RCAs. I was considering using some black heatshrink around the two wires where they enter the plugs to bulk them up a bit and give some strain relief, and then some clear heatshrink around the outside of the RCA to about a .5 cm beyond where the black heat shrink ends. Does this sound like a good approach? Also, I have two options for the black heatshrink. I have some nicer looking heatshrink that has glue on the inside. It will look cleaner I think, but will be stiff and obviously not great strain relief. The other black heatshink is normal, but has some lettering on the outside that displeases me aesthetically. If I use the former, will the added clear heat shrink give enough strain relief that I don't need to worry about it, or would it be better to use the more flexible black heatshrink as well?_

 

Any of those should work. What about putting clear all the way to the split, and small piece of black near the connector to help fill it out? This would also eliminate your concern about the wires unraveling. Make sure you still twist them. You want to minimize that EMI 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What are your plans for the Y?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Juniper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I fixed it, so disregard. Had a stray piece of copper wire touching the metal outer wall of the casing. (weak solder work :/ ) If I can get my camera working I'll post a pic._

 

Glad you figured it out. I think most of the time when you figure out what is wrong in DIY, it's a head smacker hehe


----------



## UglyJoe

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hayduke* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any of those should work. What about putting clear all the way to the split, and small piece of black near the connector to help fill it out? This would also eliminate your concern about the wires unraveling. Make sure you still twist them. You want to minimize that EMI 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What are your plans for the Y?_

 

The clear I have won't shrink down that much; it's 2:1 1/2" heatshrink, I'm pretty sure. Yeah, just checked. so the twist would be loose inside the heatshrink. Plus, I thought that using heatshrink over long distances could cause problems with microphonics/noise?

 I actually don't have any plans for the Y. I'm basically trying to make a clone of this, just with a nicer dock connector and Vampire RCA's. So the 4 wire braid just branches into the 2 wire twist over the last 5 inches of the cable or so.


----------



## Juniper

Cable: Canare star quad 12'
 Plug: Neutrik NP3X-BAG
 Jack: Neutrik NJ3FC6-BAG

 Powering Grado SR60 with a SBLive PCI card. Only have to turn it up ~3% more than without the extension cable for the same volume output.


----------



## UglyJoe

Finished!






 Thnaks, guys!


----------



## XEN

All this stuff looks great! I'll probably have a go when I have the time


----------



## deeplove

I didn't want to start off something new just for a question, but say if I would make a 2.5 cable for an LG phone to amp, say Cmoy or Mini 3, do you guys think that would be alright? I'll probably rip the songs say, 320 or less just because I have a 1gb Mini Card. I want to use it for Complete Portable use since the area I work at is not the greatest.

 What can I use and how difficult would a 2.5 adapter be.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *deeplove* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't want to start off something new just for a question, but say if I would make a 2.5 cable for an LG phone to amp, say Cmoy or Mini 3, do you guys think that would be alright? I'll probably rip the songs say, 320 or less just because I have a 1gb Mini Card. I want to use it for Complete Portable use since the area I work at is not the greatest.

 What can I use and how difficult would a 2.5 adapter be._

 

Here are some 2.5mm plugs. These were harder to dig up then I thought 
Search Results Page
 It should work like any 3.5 to 3.5 connector. If you buy the one with the wire on it, you only have to build one end


----------



## gorgnut

Sorry, dumb question; I'm in the process of making a 3.5mm female to 3.5mm male cable and adding 68ohm resistors to it. Am i supposed to put a resistor on the ground cable as well?


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gorgnut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, dumb question; I'm in the process of making a 3.5mm female to 3.5mm male cable and adding 68ohm resistors to it. Am i supposed to put a resistor on the ground cable as well?_

 

I've never built a cable with an attenuator in it, so I had never really thought about that before now 

 It seems to me that if you put a resistor on the signal and the ground, you would be doubling the total resistance as they are then in series. I'm also not sure there would be any benefit if the extra attenuation occurs after the drivers. Hopefully someone who has made one will respond too, but my thought is to only put the resistor on the signal paths. (ie 2 resistors) Again though, I've never built one, so I'm not real sure.


----------



## UglyJoe

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hayduke* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never built a cable with an attenuator in it, so I had never really thought about that before now 

 It seems to me that if you put a resistor on the signal and the ground, you would be doubling the total resistance as they are then in series. I'm also not sure there would be any benefit if the extra attenuation occurs after the drivers. Hopefully someone who has made one will respond too, but my thought is to only put the resistor on the signal paths. (ie 2 resistors) Again though, I've never built one, so I'm not real sure._

 

I'm getting ready to do this as well with some KSC75s; there is definitely no point to putting resistors in both wires, at least for headphones. Correct me if I'm wrong, but putting the resistors in series with the headphones is intended to effectively increase the impedance of the load that the amplifier is driving. This has the benefit of taking better advantage of the voltage divider effect and thus gives the amp better control of the voltage drop across the headphones, as well as decreasing the overall current pull the amp has to provide, if your amp (like a CMOY) doesn't have the best current capabilities. The headphones don't really care; all they do is "look" at the transient voltage drop from the two terminals and turn that into sound. From this standpoint it doesn't really matter that the resistor comes before or after the headphones. Putting resistors in both places just isn't very economical and doesn't make sense. 

 But to the original question, why are you putting resistors in a mini-to-mini IC anyway? Definitely don't put a resistor in the ground wire in this case; you would be forcing the ground at the amp end to be different than the ground at the source end, which could cause all kinds of serious issues and possibilities for ground loops. Plus, I don't really see the point of having a resistor in the signal either, as most amps have very high input impedance and the volume control pot is going to have a much higher resistance that the resistor you put in the IC anyway, at least until you have the pot maxed out to full volume anyway. I guess I'm just wondering what is the point of putting a resistor in your IC in the first place?


 EDIT: Nevermind, I misread the original intent of the cable. I assume your making an extension cable for headphones then, gorgnut? I'd just put the resistor in the signal wires, if this is the case.


----------



## gorgnut

Thanks booth of you.

 Yes, the cable is simply for raising the impedance to use with IEM's, removing some of the hiss that my D2 produces. I went ahead and did it, and the hiss was greatly reduced, but I seem to be getting a lot of crosstalk(sound from left channel gets in the right one and wise versa, this is crosstalk right?) using it. Either I did something wrong, or the cable was bad quality from the beginning (should have checked this first) or the resistors were bad (just got some standard carbon ones). 

 Anyway, thanks!


----------



## UglyJoe

Check and make sure all of your joints are clean and well isolated. Also, how are you braiding the wire? What kind of dielectric is the wire covered with?


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gorgnut* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks booth of you.

 Yes, the cable is simply for raising the impedance to use with IEM's, removing some of the hiss that my D2 produces. I went ahead and did it, and the hiss was greatly reduced, but I seem to be getting a lot of crosstalk(sound from left channel gets in the right one and wise versa, this is crosstalk right?) using it. Either I did something wrong, or the cable was bad quality from the beginning (should have checked this first) or the resistors were bad (just got some standard carbon ones). 

 Anyway, thanks!_

 

Sounds like you have a short in your connections somewhere. Give all your solder joints another pass with the iron and look for any stray strands of wire.


----------



## gorgnut

Ok, found the error. After checking all the wires and making sure that everything was nice and clean, I took off the resistors. The problem was still there.Then, I simply ripped off the rubber from both the socket and the plug. These were some really cheap cables! On both the female and male connectors the right channel had a whole lot exposed copper running over the left channel. I separated it and did a simple test (without the resistors) and now it worked. Put in the resistors and now it's working properly.

 Thanks for all the help, I'm still going to redo this with some proper plugs and cables, this will probably break within days ;P


----------



## XEN

I'm currently making a RCA to RCA IC and I can't seem to get the heatshrink at the split to look too smooth 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm using a soldering iron and sort of skimming the surface of the heatshrink fast until it shrinks 

 Anyone got any better methods or tips to make the shrink smoother and more professional looking?


----------



## jordanross

Good guide. I think down the road I'm going to make a diy iPod LOD, and a diy interconnect. This will help.


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XEN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm currently making a RCA to RCA IC and I can't seem to get the heatshrink at the split to look too smooth 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm using a soldering iron and sort of skimming the surface of the heatshrink fast until it shrinks 

 Anyone got any better methods or tips to make the shrink smoother and more professional looking?_

 

Yes, buy a $10 heatgun


----------



## Jasper9395

are switchcraft RCA's any good? I hope so cuz I just ordered them. What was the specific reason for using the HGA Rhodium RCA's in the tutorial anyways?


----------



## J.D.N

Switchcraft RCA's are very good. Not the best, but perfectly acceptable in most application.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jasper9395* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_are switchcraft RCA's any good? I hope so cuz I just ordered them. What was the specific reason for using the HGA Rhodium RCA's in the tutorial anyways?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J.D.N* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Switchcraft RCA's are very good. Not the best, but perfectly acceptable in most application._

 

I think the main reason people like some connectors over others has to do with the insulator materials. Some connectors use cheap plastic that can/will melt from the heat of soldering. A higher quality connector will use better materials. Other characteristics that make a good connector include strength/durability, contact material (ie gold plated), and ease of use (ie how easy is it to solder to). I'm sure there are other things, but these are the big ones I look at.

 J.D.N.,
 What connectors do you think are the best? and what makes them better then the Switchcraft ones.

 I haven't used a lot of switchcraft stuff. I like Nuetrik, so I tend to order those.


----------



## FallenAngel

Best ones I've used are Eichmann Copper Bullets (although I think they're overpriced at $50/4). My current favorite which I use everywhere is Yarbo 50RB, it uses pure copper (not brass) signal pin and Teflon dielectric; they're reasonably priced and I think they're better than the most expensive (overpriced) Cardas.

 I haven't tried Neutrik Pro-Fi, but considering the Yarbo is cheaper, I doubt that I will. I'm OK with SwitchCraft 3502A, but I don't think they're that great, they're just inexpensive and look nice.


----------



## -=Germania=-

Fallen Angel - Where are you getting the Yarbo RCA's? I have been looking for a while and found nothing.


----------



## MrMajestic2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fallen Angel - Where are you getting the Yarbo RCA's? I have been looking for a while and found nothing._

 

One place would be www.vt4c.com


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *-=Germania=-* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fallen Angel - Where are you getting the Yarbo RCA's? I have been looking for a while and found nothing._

 

VT4C. Make sure to check shipping, after a certain weight, it's better to go with EMS.

 If you're planning to order a few, I bought more than I can use last time and can sell you some at cost with cheaper and faster shipping. If you're going for a lot, would you order a few RCA sockets for me as well


----------



## Hayduke

Thanks for the link. That site has some nice stuff.


----------



## Jasper9395

hmm that site has some nice stuff indeed; I saw they have several different types of tubing to cover cables; cotton, silk, nylon, and teflon is any one of these superior to the others.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jasper9395* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmm that site has some nice stuff indeed; I saw they have several different types of tubing to cover cables; cotton, silk, nylon, and teflon is any one of these superior to the others._

 

The teflon is used as an insulator if you order some bare wire. The others are used over groups of insulated wires. Nylon is pretty common (think TechFlex). I don't know much about silk, but cotton is supposed be minimize microphonics. I'm sure there are other differences, but that's what comes to my mind immediately.


----------



## Pecker

What's the name of the cable used in audio cables?

 How do I know what to buy for a 3.5mm to rca cable?

 I am wanting to do the cable right from square one.

 So could i use two copper wires twisted together with 2 ground wires to create the 3.5mm to rca cable?


----------



## cyberspyder

If you'd read the first post of this guide.....


----------



## Pecker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you'd read the first post of this guide....._

 

Thanks for this unhelpful post.

 Now the reason I ask is because I have read the original page:

  Quote:


 *Step 1:*
 Start with your basic mini-mini steps, making sure to *use 2 wires* for ground when using the *4 conductor wire*.
 You could use 2 different 2-conductor wires for this, so you wouldn't have to cut the casing on the cable to split it into the 'Y' shape, but I think using a single 4 conductor cable is easiest.

* Step 2:*
 Then, if you are using 4 conductor wire, cut off the casing and make 2 pairs out of the 4 individual wires. One pair for the left RCA and one for the right RCA." 
 

Now I am asking what these cables are.

 I have never built a cable before HENCE the questions. I don't know the difference between an industrial power cable and a audio grade rca cable.

 Would anybody mind clearing this confuse I have up for me please?

 A name of the type of cable would be appreciated rather than a model name.

 Hopefully somebody else will not want to take a stab at me?


----------



## cyberspyder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brschmid* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Last Update 08-29-2004
 [size=xx-small]please do not PM with specific questions, i hardly have time to browse these forums weekly, so if you PM me a question, it will most likely not be answered, just post in the thread, there are many knowledible folks here. [/size]

 There are 3 guides, mini-mini, mini-RCA, RCA-RCA. The Pics are at the end, in the Reference Pics section. Also be sure to check out the comments. 
*The links work as of Aug. 29th, 2004; if the links don't work, (It appears that Markertek changes their links daily), just search for the part number and you will find them* 

*Tools:*

 Wire stripper
 Side cutters
 Soldering Iron
 Solder
 Multimeter is very helpful
 30 minutes of your time

*Building materials:* (they are links)

 [size=medium]*Wire; your choice what and from where, these are what I like:

Canare Star Quad or Mini Star Quad, Pacific Radio also has it;  if you choose star quad use the white wire for the signalsee page 4 for explanation.
Homegrown Audio Silver Braid 
 CAT5E network cable works pretty nice too
 there are also many other good choices for wire out there, don't limit yourself to these*[/size]

*Connectors; Your choice again:*

*right angle:*

Switchcraft 35HDRANN If this link doesn't work, search for the part number at markertek and you will it

*straight plug: *

Switchcraft 35HDNN If this link doesn't work, search for the part number at markertek and you will it

Canare F-12 If this link doesn't work, search for the part number at markertek and you will it

*RCA:*

HGA Rhodium 
Good selection of others from Parts Express 

*TechFlex and Heatshrink:*
 I have a another thread about this with many links, here 
 I use 3/8" to cover Starquad or similar size cable. it doesn't stretch to much and still looks good._

 

That is what he's referring to.


----------



## Pecker

Yes but those are model names!

 What type of cables are they?

 Well I went and bought this one: 30-620 CANARE L-4E6S CABLE Black

_ am now wondering where the ground cable comes from?_

 There are four wires in the cable. the four is paired off into two pairs.

 How do you make a ground from this?


----------



## cyberspyder

Perhaps this is easier to understand:

[FAQ] How to make a Mini-RCA & Mini-Mini Interconnects for your amp - Overclock.net - Overclocking.net


----------



## Pecker

Thanks a lot!

 I followed that one word for word!

 Much appreciated!


----------



## StanRex

huh, I think I did a mistake, but I'm not sure

 I wanted to make a RCA to RCA cable to link alien DAC and an amp

 so I bought some neutrik rca plugs (the cheap ones, wasn t willing to go for the 20$ profi ^^ )

 and that cable : VAN DAMME | 268500 | Multiconducteurs | CÃ¢bles | Farnell FR

 thinking, cool, it s has two conductors, one for the ground, one for the signal, and two wires, one for left and one for right!

 ooops

 In fact, like you can see on the pictures. It does have two wires

 But each wire only contains one conductor

 So I think I'm screwed. But I think that I remember some people talked about using these cables with the conductor for signal, and tying the shielding to ground. In which case, this cable would be ok (well, perhaps too big since its 24AWG, but it could work)

 could anyone please tell me if it can be done/should be done that way, or if I really need two wires with two conductors each?

 thanks in advance


----------



## Phenic

It's not the optimum situation but you can do what as you said. Use the conductors for the signal path and then the shield as ground. Not really much of a choice you have here. Hope this helps. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 edit: Thinking about it, you can use both conductors for 1 RCA. 1 conductor for signal, 1 for ground. But you'll need to use 2x the wire.


----------



## StanRex

Thanks for the answer

 If it s not optimal though, I'm probably just going to buy some mogami 2792 cable, i can buy some at 2.50 € per meter in a shop in paris, and it has 2 conductors per wire (and I've read quite a few posts stating that mogami had good cables).


----------



## MrOldboy

So, if I was going to reterminate my headphone cord, shorten it. Would I just follow these steps?


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StanRex* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the answer

 If it s not optimal though, I'm probably just going to buy some mogami 2792 cable, i can buy some at 2.50 € per meter in a shop in paris, and it has 2 conductors per wire (and I've read quite a few posts stating that mogami had good cables)._

 

You might as well try it. You have all the materials. Make the cable, and if it sounds good to you, then you're done. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If it doesn't sound good, you can always try something different.

 You can use the shielding for the ground, but you're right, it isn't ideal. I'd build it anyway. Especially if this is your first cable. You will gain valuable experience in cable building


----------



## cyberspyder

I have an addition to this thread...IMO it's a bit easier to understand (edit away if you wish), this was a guide I did quite a while ago.

  Quote:


 As per the title, I'm going to explain how to make a mini jack to dual RCA interconnect that could be used to connect your PC soundcard to your headphone amp/DAC/speaker amp. However, I put together this cable BEFORE thinking of doing a FAQ, so I guess I'll try to explain myself as much as possible.

 First things first....*MATERIALS*. You're free to buy anything you want, but I tend to be on the budget side, and still strive for quality. The simplest ICs are made with ready-made cables, like the following:

 -Canare L-4E6S Star Quad Microphone Cable 
 -Mogami W2534 & W2893 Neglex Quad Mic Cable

 Mic cables are easy to work with, as they already have 4 conductors, most likely the max. number you're going to use. Also, the aren't too think or thin, and fit into the jacks snugly. BTW, they're also CHEAP. There's also another option with using regular 21-24 AWG stranded wire and braiding them in a Litz configuration, but that's another FAQ. 

 Talking about jacks, there is a plethora of jacks available. A simple search reveals them all. However, as stated above, I like to be on the budget side, except I also care about quality. Now, you could get jacks that are worth a couple hundred dollars, but it's ultimately up to you. The jacks I frequent are Switchcrafts. They are made right here in Chicago, and are of very high quality. HOWEVER, most retail stores tend to sell them at very high prices, so I suggest going to these online/brick and mortar stores:

 -Markertek ($100 min. order for International, BUT can be negotiated)
 -Audiogear (they only ship to the US, good prices though)

 Next up, *TOOLS*...You're going to need at least the following:

 -Soldering Iron (a Pencil type iron with a pointed/chisel tip is ideal); Stray away from questionable brands, and stick with Hakko, Weller, and other well known brands. NO COLD HEAT IRONS, THEY DON'T WORK!!!!! ***An iron's wattage determines how hot it gets. An iron of 15W to 30W is plenty for fine electrical work like this***
 -Solder (logical companion.....); At least 0.20-0.32 dia. 63% tin/37% lead is best (often called 'High Tech solder'). Brands: Kester, WBT, Cardas...
 -Iron holder/cleaner; as simple as a curled piece of 8 AWG wire. A damp sponge or kitchen paper is preferable.
 -Heatshrink; GET AN ASSORTMENT. There are many types of heatshrink out there, but 2:1 shrink is most common. A 2:1 shrink means that it'll shrink to 1/2 it's original size (3:1; 1/3 shrunk size). Be sure to use the correct size for the job (a piece of heatshrink that is slightly bigger than the material is ideal)
 -Wire Strippers
 -Side Cutters
 -Pliers (to clamp the strain relief)
 -Lighters (to shrink the heatshrink...you can also use a heat gun)






 For more info, go here: Getting Started in Audio DIY

****IMPORTANT: WASH YOU HANDS AFTER YOU'VE WORKED WITH SOLDER, I AM NOT LIABLE FOR ANY LEAD POISONING****

 Onto the *ACTUAL steps*...

*1)* Lay out the cable (I'm going to use Canare Star Quad) in front of you and cut to desired length.

*2)* Strip the rubber insulation and the metal braided shielding to get to the 4 21 AWG conductors. Neat thing about Star Quad is that the conductors tend to be in two colours only, so it makes life ALOT easier.






*3)* Unravel the twisted wires and designate roles to each of them. I usually use white as my grounds and twist the two wires together. The blues I then designate as left or right channel.

*4)* Strip all of your wires. You can tin the wires at this point, which makes it easier to work with, but is entirely up to you. 

*5)* Open up your jacks. There should be 3 parts to it: a) A clear plastic tube, B) The metal/plastic shell which covers up the actual connector, and C) The connector itself. 











 Up first, the 3.5mm connector. It will have a rod in the middle, and flanges on either side. The biggest flange (with the cable clamp) is usually the ground, which is the part furthest away from the tip of the connector. This is where you solder the two white wires I mentioned earlier to. The rod is the left channel, which corresponds to the tip of the actual 3.5mm jack (ie, before the first black stripe). The other smaller flange is your right channel, which corresponds to the area in between the two black stripes. 





 Simply put, the flange with the hole is ALWAYS *RIGHT*, and the rod is ALWAYS *LEFT*

 Next, the RCA jack. Since RCA are what we call phono/mono jacks, they only carry on channel of audio per jack. As a result, there is only a rod and a ground. Using the white wire again, it will connect to the flange, which is the ground, and corresponds to the sleeve that slides over a RCA plug. The rod is the left/right channel, and it corresponds to the rod of the RCA jack.






*6)* Construct your y-split. Pick a spot on the Star Quad and cut the insulation & shielding off. Unravel the four wire and retwist them into pairs. *REMEMBER, ONE WHITE WIRE WITH ONE BLUE WIRE, NOT BLUE-BLUE AND WHITE-WHITE.* Heatshrink the wires afterward.

*7)* Slide enough heatshrink onto the y-split until it doesn't move or dislodge itself. I also like to slide enough heatshrink onto the wires so that the diameter will be close to the opening of the metal sleeve of the RCA/3.5mm jacks.











*8)* Solder your wires to the appropriate parts. NOTE: you don't have to distinguish which blue wire is right/left channel, we'll do that later. *REMEMBER TO SLIDE THE BARREL OF THE JACK AND ITS PLASTIC SLEEVE ONTO THE WIRE BEFORE SOLDERING!!!!!* Clamp all of the wires onto the barrel with pliers.

 I'm not going to teach anyone how to solder, but some hints:
 -Heat the part up adjacent to the area you want the solder to be. It flows toward heat.
 -Make sure the part is hot enough. If not, then you'll get a cold joint, a joint that is really crappy. A good one should be shiny, NOT dull.

 More info + videos here: Tangent Tutorials

*9)* *MAKE SURE THE DIFFERENT CHANNELS ARE NOT TOUCHING INSIDE THE CONNECTOR.* Just to be sure, I cut a piece of heatshrink and physically blocked off the channels. Screw on the metal sleeve now.

*10)* To check the different channels, I just grab some alligator clips + wires along with a battery and lightbulb, and construct a simple circuit to see which RCA jack would corresponds to the channel. Then I would label which is which with a simple piece of heatshrink on the jack.

*11)* You're done! Connect to amp and have an eargasm.





 GREAT SUCCESS!

 Brendan 
 

Cheers.


----------



## MrOldboy

If I wanted to make my headphone cable interchangeable. Reterminate it to a male 3.5mm and have 2 extensions, coiled and uncoiled.

 Would it be wise to use locking female/male plugs, or what should I use so that the cords dont come out?


----------



## ashrahh

hey do you all know how i can make an ipod LOD, cause i cant seem to find where or any guide to help me! 

 thanks!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Punnisher made a post about how to build one, but now I can't seem to find it. PM him, or maybe your luck doing a search will be better than mine.


----------



## Pars

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Punnisher made a post about how to build one, but now I can't seem to find it. PM him, or maybe your luck doing a search will be better than mine._

 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/how...-cable-316475/

 Took about 10 seconds... use the Google search in the Search function at the top... I used _LOD how to_ as the keyword(s).


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pars* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/how...-cable-316475/

 Took about 10 seconds... use the Google search in the Search function at the top... I used LOD how to as the keyword(s)._

 

Not when using head-fi's search function for "build low profile" "posted by Punnisher in the cables forum", which turned up nothing, or "LOD how to" "posted by punnisher in cable forum", which turned up three un-related threads. I didn't want a million results and didn't think to look in the DIY forum.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *search result* 
_iPod LOD's a few questions.
 dvessel
 06-23-2008 03:28 PM
 by Punnisher 
 3204Cables, Power, Tweaks, Speakers, Accessories (DBT-Free Forum)

 aux cable for cars
 manhattanproj
 03-01-2008 03:21 PM
 by LostOne.TR 
 5406Cables, Power, Tweaks, Speakers, Accessories (DBT-Free Forum)

 I know the feelings folk have to Monster, but.
 bikeboy999
 02-21-2008 03:34 PM
 by Punnisher 
 13669Cables, Power, Tweaks, Speakers, Accessories (DBT-Free Forum)_


----------



## brown274

LOD's look tuff to solder


----------



## harry-tom

Thanks for this great info


----------



## screwglue

Hey so I tried making a mini-rca cable along with some bannana cables today. All went well except my soldering for the canare f12. First of all, are the left and right ground cables allowed to touch? and secondly is there any tips on how to solder wires quickly and how to get them to stay put while they cool down? I broke my canare f12 by having the soldering iron on it too long and then the plastic melted the 3.5mm part.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *screwglue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First of all, are the left and right ground cables allowed to touch?_

 

No problem with that. You're making a mini-RCA, not a balanced cabled, so grounds are common, don't pay attention to left or right round.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *screwglue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ and secondly is there any tips on how to solder wires quickly and how to get them to stay put while they cool down? I broke my canare f12 by having the soldering iron on it too long and then the plastic melted the 3.5mm part._

 

The F12 is quite difficult to solder. Actually their build is stupid. Try to heat the plug for some seconds, flow some solder on it, tin your wires. Those will make it easier to solder. I often use some flux when having to solder difficult task.


----------



## screwglue

thanks dude, my new f12 should arrive tomorrow!

 any tips on making the plastic not melt?


----------



## Lil' Knight

Did you use the helping hands? Would be far easier to solder with it.


----------



## patton713MW

The magic is in the tinning. Tin the wire and tin the connector before you try to join them. Then all you have to do is hold the two surfaces together (helping hands really help. kind of a "duh" statement), and apply heat on the wire until the solder on the wire and the solder on the connector melt together. Pull the iron away and keep the joint still until the solder solidifies. Done! Doing it that way makes life much easier. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 EDIT - I worked for a custom cable company, and soldered dozens of F12s (I lost count). I didn't kill a single one of them using that technique.


----------



## Lil' Knight

^
 That technique is super useful 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I always use it to solder.


----------



## qusp

yeah I always do that as well even with the tiny pins in a dock. and ive never killed an F12 either; but that doesn't mean that they dont suck
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 IMO THE worst connector ever that i've worked with. unfortunately my favorite sounding mini connectors, the XLO minis use pretty much the same setup ;(


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *screwglue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks dude, my new f12 should arrive tomorrow!

 any tips on making the plastic not melt?_

 

he just answered that too; do it quickly and it wont melt. but you can also use a dummy mini socket to plug the mini into; this will act as a heat sink and help stop the plastic from melting. I do this every time I use Eichmann bullets because the whole bloody body is plastic


----------



## n_maher

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ unfortunately my favorite sounding mini connectors, the XLO minis use pretty much the same setup ;(_

 

Are you honestly saying you can hear the difference between mini plugs?


----------



## qusp

yep I am. connectors are far more important than wire is for signal transfer; a good contact to begin with, with cheaper wire, makes for a better signal than great wire with crap connectors. just ask anyone about eichmann bullets and the impact they have on the sound. XLO minis are the only mini that is direct gold plated, all the others have a nickel subplating. thats just one of the differences between them and the others. they are the only one designed with high end audio in mind. switchcraft were made with war in mind; and i'm not sure about neutrik, but they def aren't high end


----------



## n_maher

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yep I am. connectors are far more important than wire is for signal transfer; a good contact to begin with, with cheaper wire, makes for a better signal than great wire with crap connectors. just ask anyone about eichmann bullets and the impact they have on the sound. XLO minis are the only mini that is direct gold plated, all the others have a nickel subplating. thats just one of the differences between them and the others. they are the only one designed with high end audio in mind. switchcraft were made with war in mind; and i'm not sure about neutrik, but they def aren't high end_

 

I don't need to ask anyone, I've used Eichmann Bullets and other plenty of other products. I can't hear the difference between anything that provides good, solid mechanical contact. And yes, I've tested and tried to hear it. Just like I can't hear the difference between different types of solder, another of my favorite claims.


----------



## Pars

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *n_maher* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't need to ask anyone, I've used Eichmann Bullets and other plenty of other products. I can't hear the difference between anything that provides good, solid mechanical contact. And yes, I've tested and tried to hear it. Just like I can't hear the difference between different types of solder, another of my favorite claims._

 

Ohhhh... blasphemy!


----------



## qusp

nah never tried to hear different types of solder. but I can hear good contact and not so good contact. thats all the difference is.if you cant hear it then oh well; i'm not going to call your hearing inferior just different. I do hear it. but I think although you have stopped short of calling me something the inference is well and truly out there. just leave it will you?? are you looking for a disagreement. its really a bit childish. no-one is going to prove something one way or the other so why bother. even if we were in the same room we wouldn't be able to agree on something.


----------



## qusp

edit not bothering. not buying into it its a circular argument


----------



## n_maher

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_nah never tried to hear different types of solder. but I can hear good contact and not so good contact. thats all the difference is.if you cant hear it then oh well; i'm not going to call your hearing inferior just different. I do hear it. but I think although you have stopped short of calling me something the inference is well and truly out there. just leave it will you?? are you looking for a disagreement. its really a bit childish. no-one is going to prove something one way or the other so why bother. even if we were in the same room we wouldn't be able to agree on something._

 

I love people who take shots and then end with "just leave it". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And it's not a circular argument when one side is a pseudo MOT trying to make money off of selling cables. Is it clear enough what I'm calling you there?


----------



## markieta

Where have the canadian boys been getting your wiring/connectors + other odds and ends?

 Markertek used to ship to Canada, atleast, when I placed my order last year it wasn't nearly 100$ min order. Sigh.

 Im looking specifically for Cardas cable and Neutrik RCA connectors... Obviously best prices you've found will be appreciated =)


----------



## cyberspyder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markieta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where have the canadian boys been getting your wiring/connectors + other odds and ends?

 Markertek used to ship to Canada, atleast, when I placed my order last year it wasn't nearly 100$ min order. Sigh.

 Im looking specifically for Cardas cable and Neutrik RCA connectors... Obviously best prices you've found will be appreciated =)_

 

Markertek still ships here...and the $100 min. order applies on specific cases. Takefiveaudio has the Neutrik RCAs I think.


----------



## JamesL

If you're looking for cardas quad, michael percy has the best price I know of and ships to canada.


----------



## n_maher

I'll second the TakeFive recommendation, I use them pretty frequently for orders.


----------



## markieta

awsome, thanks guys
 placing an order on monday =)


----------



## markieta

Ok, So I've got

 a. 22 AWG Vampire Solid Core Silver (Ground)
 b. 22 AWG Neotech Copper Strand (Signal)
 c. Vampire 557 RCA


 I still need a 3.5mm connector to fit the 4 cables into. There was nothing from Take Five Audio that I could get that would fit. If anyone has any Switchcraft minis, or anything else that you know would work that they can let go, would you please pm me!


----------



## Lil' Knight

Hey, TakeFive sells the Canare F12 which is huge and can fit all the wires you use.


----------



## markieta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, TakeFive sells the Canare F12 which is huge and can fit all the wires you use._

 


 Not available atm..


----------



## mambo5

If the headphone jack (3.5mm) doesn't have a clamp, would you need to tie a strain relief????


----------



## Zorander

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mambo5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the headphone jack (3.5mm) doesn't have a clamp, would you need to tie a strain relief????_

 

You can also use adhesive heatshrink, which makes an even stronger strain relief.


----------



## markieta

Having some trouble with TakeFiveAudio and the way they market their products, in this case, product description.

 Well, anyways, 

 It was suppose to be clear insulation + wire for both the copper and silver, I ended up getting red for my copper... They reported back to me saying 
 "The Neotech wire ships to us in various colours from time to time. I believe this may be the source of confusion, as our 22 Teflon that is currently shipping is in a red jacket." 

 Unfortunetly, anyone purchasing this particular item, including myself, would assume its shipping in a clear jacket from the photo of the item + lack of description of colour! Sigh.
 [/rant]

 Still need a mini connector!


----------



## mambo5

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markieta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Having some trouble with TakeFiveAudio and the way they market their products, in this case, product description.

 Well, anyways, 

 It was suppose to be clear insulation + wire for both the copper and silver, I ended up getting red for my copper... They reported back to me saying 
 "The Neotech wire ships to us in various colours from time to time. I believe this may be the source of confusion, as our 22 Teflon that is currently shipping is in a red jacket." 

 Unfortunetly, anyone purchasing this particular item, including myself, would assume its shipping in a clear jacket from the photo of the item + lack of description of colour! Sigh.
 [/rant]

 Still need a mini connector! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

I say keep the red. It looks awesome. Its givin off a race car kinda vibe. White and white is plain and boring 

 And from far a way it looks like its just the red cable alone and there floating 
 Its cool.


----------



## mattcalf

So will this be alright for making some of my own cables?


----------



## markieta

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mambo5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I say keep the red. It looks awesome. Its givin off a race car kinda vibe. White and white is plain and boring 

 And from far a way it looks like its just the red cable alone and there floating 
 Its cool._

 

Keeping the red, it does look pretty nice actually. It's grown on me.

 The great people at Take Five Audio are sending me the correct wire. Ill be keeping that handy for my next set of cables. =)



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mattcalf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So will this be alright for making some of my own cables?_

 

Those cables are already built for you with 1/4 connecctors, why don't you buy canare star quad separately? Its cheaper.


----------



## mattcalf

Quote:


 Those cables are already built for you with 1/4 connecctors, why don't you buy canare star quad separately? Its cheaper. 
 

I plan to use it for RCA and a LOD among other things.
 I can't find and seperate on ebay and that seems the only place I could get it in Australia. 

 Cheers.


----------



## breakfastchef

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mattcalf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So will this be alright for making some of my own cables?_

 

The Canare cable is excellent for building interconnects. My suggestion is to visit Bottlehead.com and look for the pdf file for the construction of the NAWA cable that was developed in conjuction with Diycable. This is, in my opinion, the cable type we all need to build for our equipment. This is a simple cable to make and works very, very well, especially to keep out unwanted outside noise.


----------



## mattcalf

Quote:


 The Canare cable is excellent for building interconnects. My suggestion is to visit Bottlehead.com and look for the pdf file for the construction of the NAWA cable that was developed in conjuction with Diycable. This is, in my opinion, the cable type we all need to build for our equipment. This is a simple cable to make and works very, very well, especially to keep out unwanted outside noise. 
 

Cool thanks for that!.


----------



## Mr Incredible

Sorry if this has been brought up before, I searched for a while and never really found a good answer. I'm going to make a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable about 15 feet out of some mogami mini quad, with some neutrik 6mm nickle connectors and I'm wondering the best way to solder it together. A friend of mine suggested that I use two wires for left and two for right and then the shield for ground. Would this be the best way or would I want to do one left, one right, two ground. Or what? Thanks for all the help guys.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mr Incredible* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry if this has been brought up before, I searched for a while and never really found a good answer. I'm going to make a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable about 15 feet out of some mogami mini quad, with some neutrik 6mm nickle connectors and I'm wondering the best way to solder it together. A friend of mine suggested that I use two wires for left and two for right and then the shield for ground. Would this be the best way or would I want to do one left, one right, two ground. Or what? Thanks for all the help guys._

 

I would use your second method. This will allow the shield to pickup any interference without it becoming part of the signal. The ground is still part of the signal, so you don't want it to pickup any noise. This is just my opinion though. I'm sure others will think your first method would work better. I've explained why I think 1 connection for R and L and 2 for G is the best, but I'm sure there are good reasons to do it the other way too.


----------



## Nicolas2305

^ X2

 I've read many posts about inter-connect and what came out is that you should take 2 of the same "color" for the ground and the other two for the signal. Some will also solder the shield at the source end to further eleminate noise. 

 In the case of the Mogami, some will say you're better off with the clear insulation for the signal according to colorant "issues" I don't really believe it have something to do but I'm just telling you what I read while searching.


----------



## Lil' Knight

I think there's no difference between the colors. Should be the same.


----------



## ivant

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hayduke* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would use your second method. This will allow the shield to pickup any interference without it becoming part of the signal. The ground is still part of the signal, so you don't want it to pickup any noise. This is just my opinion though. I'm sure others will think your first method would work better. I've explained why I think 1 connection for R and L and 2 for G is the best, but I'm sure there are good reasons to do it the other way too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

AFAIK, the shield don't work unless its grounded.


----------



## ShinyFalcon

.


----------



## mambo5

Can anyone recommend a thickness for using individual hookup wire?
 Would it be the same for a wire to be used with a headphone recable and an interconnect?


----------



## Lil' Knight

Headphones cable should be >24awg.
 I often use 20-22-24g for interconnects.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mattcalf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I plan to use it for RCA and a LOD among other things.
 I can't find and seperate on ebay and that seems the only place I could get it in Australia. 

 Cheers._

 

there is a place in brisbane that sells starquad separately. i'll post a link tomorrow once I dig it out. cant remember the name ATM but I have it saved somewhere.


----------



## mattcalf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_there is a p[lace in brisbane that sells starquad separately. i'll post a link tomorrow once I dig it out._

 

That'd be awesome thanks!


----------



## iareConfusE

How much did you guys pay for shipping from markertek? I don;t think its worth it for me to pay $11 for shipping a piece of star quad cable and 2 connectors....


----------



## mattcalf

Would this wire be suitable to build cables?

 Thanks,
 Matt.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mattcalf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would this wire be suitable to build cables?

 Thanks,
 Matt._

 

It's pretty thick, but it would depend on what you're using it for.


----------



## mattcalf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hayduke* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's pretty thick, but it would depend on what you're using it for._

 

Your run of the mill mini to mini, LOD and some RCAs.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mattcalf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your run of the mill mini to mini, LOD and some RCAs._

 

You will have trouble soldering something that thick to the iPod dock connector. Other then that, it will work for all those purposes. It is just thicker then you need I think. If you're gonna score a killer deal on the wire, then use it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 For the LOD though, you will want something smaller to solder to those pins. That wire will cover several of them


----------



## mattcalf

Would this or this be any better?
 Or this haha.


----------



## Geruvah

So if my mind that's been up for almost a whole day straight is somehow still able to even read, if I want to recable my HD-650 with a Jena cable (I think that's the cable I'd want)

 1. Order the 18awg from their site (25 feet seems like it'll just cut it for a 6-foot cable)

 2. Get the connectors (Sennheiser connectors, the 1/4" plug which looks like it's going to be the Furutech FP-704)

 3. Braid the wire before clamping and soldering (paying careful attention to the guide and using the solder they'll give me). Use those heatshrinks and enjoy? 

 Not that I plan to do this now and mean to sound like I'm oversimplifying the process. That'll be 2 months down the road, so I'll have plenty to learn.


----------



## markieta

I was planning on making a mini to mini...

 I had some spare wire around and cut it into 4 pieces *completely oblivious at this point*

 Braided the wire and made sure everything was evenly spaced

 Techflex and heatshrank it

 ....







 realized that a Mini to Mini only needs 3 wires! SIGH

 Im never going to do that again!

 Now... Can I make a mini to mini still with these 4 wires (2 signal, 2 ground) or is it not worth it? What else should I make, this thing is about 10 inches long


----------



## mattcalf

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markieta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was planning on making a mini to mini...

 I had some spare wire around and cut it into 4 pieces *completely oblivious at this point*

 Braided the wire and made sure everything was evenly spaced

 Techflex and heatshrank it

 ....






 realized that a Mini to Mini only needs 3 wires! SIGH

 Im never going to do that again!

 Now... Can I make a mini to mini still with these 4 wires (2 signal, 2 ground) or is it not worth it? What else should I make, this thing is about 10 inches long_

 

2 ground and 2 signal is fine. Go for it!


----------



## markieta

ok thanks! ahhaha

 i feel dumb


----------



## EFN

Well, I'd highly recommend to use 2 wires for the ground as well. The key to good sound is good grounding.


----------



## tjb

Is there a maximum length on a headphone extension?


----------



## liltehood

yes the max length is excactly at 123456789123456789123456789123456789123456789.1234 56789um
 u shouldnt make a cable longer...






 I dont think there is a maximum length if u use it at home. but u cant transport the signal from north america to australia...

 hood


----------



## m11a1

I'm sure up to a certain length, quality will dramatically decrease.


----------



## Hayduke

If you're concerned about long cable distances, I believe that's when you start looking into a balanced system. Hopefully your wallet doesn't hear you read this and run away and hide


----------



## tjb

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *liltehood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yes the max length is excactly at 1,2345,6789,1234,5678,9123,4567,8912,3456,7891,234 5,6789.123456789um *(that's one undecillion)* 
 u shouldnt make a cable longer...






 I dont think there is a maximum length if u use it at home. but u cant transport the signal from north america to australia...

 hood_

 

 And were would you suggest I order that much cable from? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 jk....


 Thanks guys!

 I'm ordering 25' of canare L-4E6S Star Quad tommorrow and 25' of sleeving to make an extension and a 1/4" to mini adapter for my grado sr225's that are coming...

 EDIT: Would them being unamped change any thing?


----------



## CrucifixationOfFaith

Hi guys and sorry for the dumb question...
 When making a IC from 4 wires, can I solder those wires in pairs in the same place, or should I search for free space for each of the wires ?
 Thanks in advance


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CrucifixationOfFaith* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys and sorry for the dumb question...
 When making a IC from 4 wires, can I solder those wires in pairs in the same place, or should I search for free space for each of the wires ?
 Thanks in advance 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Are you using 4 wires for a single RCA or something? It's tough to provide a reliable response without knowing what kind of IC you're making. If it is a stereo phone plug on both ends, then use 1 wire each for the signal and 2 for the ground. If it's 2 RCAs on each end, then 1 wire for each of the 4 conenctions (2 per plug).

 To just answer your question about soldering, yes, you can solder 2 wires to the same point.


----------



## CrucifixationOfFaith

Yeah, RCA to RCA, using Mundorf 24AWG wire. (2 wires for signal and 2 for ground)
 I was only curious if I can solder them in pairs, a friend of mine was making an IC from 8 wires and each of the wires had his place on the connector...


----------



## ThePredator

There seems to be a lot of misinformation in this thread on what a litz wire is. Three braided silver coated stranded wires carrying different signals have nothing to do with a litz wire or the principles it uses, they are simply nice looking braids (I use a similar one to keep cables tidy).

 Here are a couple examples of actual litz wire:
Litz Wire
http://www.foxonwire.com/productdetails.asp?ID=320
http://www.litz-wire.com/
http://home.earthlink.net/~jimlux/hv/litz.htm


----------



## JuStlcE

thanks a lot, really helpful


----------



## markieta

I've got a few quick question that hopefully gets a quick reply. I will be ordering these tonight hopefully.

 I want to re-cable my shures (wires are toast at the speaker end)

 1. I would like to know if its practical to use the neotech 26awg wires, or should I use a smaller/larger gauge for portable iems?

 2. I would like to heatshrink the ends going into the body of the iem, is 1/16 2:1 shrinktube small enough or too small to cover the 2 wires going into the body.


 If you would like to recomend some other wire to use, please go ahead. I live in Canada and I will most likely be ordering from TakeFiveAudio since I can find everything I need/want from them soo far and shipping is great.
http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/sh...t=DIY+Supplies


----------



## qusp

definitely smaller for an IEM cable; good luck with that job, its not going to be a walk in the park and if this is your first re-cable job I highly recommend you think twice. just cracking them open is going to be a task in itself. you should use 30AWG pure silver solid core (cardas) or even cardas 34AWG silver tonearm wire. twisted and threaded though a teflon tube to reduce microphonics, which depending on the coating on the wires can be loud enough to make them totally unusable


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markieta* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I want to re-cable my shures (wires are toast at the speaker end)_

 

You can just use the Westone ES cable to recable your Shure. The result is a perfect IEM, sweet sound and no cable hassle.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_definitely smaller for an IEM cable; good luck with that job, its not going to be a walk in the park and if this is your first re-cable job I highly recommend you think twice. just cracking them open is going to be a task in itself. you should use 30AWG pure silver solid core (cardas) or even cardas 34AWG silver tonearm wire. twisted and threaded though a teflon tube to reduce microphonics, which depending on the coating on the wires can be loud enough to make them totally unusable_

 

I have a cable from Steven Kelby with Cardas 33g silver wire for my SE530 in a livewires custom shell, and it is sweet sounding but they sure do worry me about how thin the wires are.


----------



## dazzer1975

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Get a multimeter and measure for resistance.

 -Alex-_

 

ok so I am on a mission to buy some basic materials to make an interconnect i.e. nuetrik stereo mini plugs, some suitable cable and I need a multimeter.

 I have some questions regarding multimeter usage as I have never used one before, however, I shall try and explain myself as well as I can.

 So, hypothetically, I am all ready to go, I have my starquad in front of me, and I choose to use one blue wire for left channel, one blue wrie for right and two white wires for ground, I solder one end into the neutrik jack.

 Now, I move onto the other end of the mini to mini and I dont know which wire is left channel and which is right channel (assuming I used blue wire for both left and right and white for ground for the purposes of my question).

 What multimeter function should I use and would it literally be a case of placing one probe on the completed right channel, and the other probe on the bare wire I am trying to find for the other end right channel?


----------



## dazzer1975

never mind think I sussed it, I should slow down and read everything in detail.

 Check for continuity on each 1/3 of the plug with the other side.


----------



## Juaquin

You've got it! Remember tip is left, ring is right, the rest is ground. Put one lead on the tip (left), then on the ends of the wires until you find the one that has continuity, hook that up to the other tip, and you're good.


----------



## dazzer1975

excellent stuff, thanks so much for confirming this for me.

 I get easily over excited lol

 Cant wait for my order to arrive and get cracking making some interconnects.


----------



## Hayduke

Sounds like you got it now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 FYI, here is the wiki for that sort of connector:
TRS connector - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 It's TRS for tip, ring sleeve. I find it easy to remember kind of in the opposite direction. The sleeve is the largest part and at the "base" of the jack plug. To me that sorta reminds me of the ground of the plug, so I can remember that that is ground. Ring and right start with R, so that one is easy. That only leaves the tip, which by elimination, must be left 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Good luck on your cables!


----------



## dazzer1975

Thanks Hayduke, appreciate you explaining that for me, and thanks for the good luck.

 I will post pics of my first soldering session and cable making session once everything arrives and I get set up.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dazzer1975* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Hayduke, appreciate you explaining that for me, and thanks for the good luck.

 I will post pics of my first soldering session and cable making session once everything arrives and I get set up._

 

Juaquin already explained it, I just shared how I remember it.
 You're welcome of course


----------



## dazzer1975

I think I am used to forums where you get the response RTFM when ever you ask a question, so everyone gets much love for replying to what I realise are the most basic of questions lol.


----------



## chiefroastbeef

We all started at the same level! Of course I'd want to help others out!

 Good luck and post some pictures when you are finished!


----------



## ashmedai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iareConfusE* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How much did you guys pay for shipping from markertek? I don;t think its worth it for me to pay $11 for shipping a piece of star quad cable and 2 connectors...._

 

Ugh, yeah. $18 for same via Priority Mail was just silly, when it would fit in a $4 flat rate box and still have room for 2-3 large squirrels. Someplace with somewhat less padded shipping rates would be nice for small one-off orders.


----------



## Juaquin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ashmedai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_$18 for same via Priority Mail was just silly, when it would fit in a $4 flat rate box and *still have room for 2-3 large squirrels.*_

 

I lol'd.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ashmedai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...and still have room for 2-3 large squirrels_

 

with or without their nuts?


----------



## FallenAngel

ashmedai : nice signature, took me a minute to figure out DIVIDE BY ZERO


----------



## fzman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ashmedai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ugh, yeah. $18 for same via Priority Mail was just silly, when it would fit in a $4 flat rate box and still have room for 2-3 large squirrels. Someplace with somewhat less padded shipping rates would be nice for small one-off orders._

 

i also work for a mail order company and wanted to point out that the usps does not do free pickup of packages anymore-- you either have to bring them to the post office, since security restrictions are tight about what can be put into a mail box, or you have to pay for daily pickup. paying an employee to spend time shoehorning your order into a tiny package to save you on shipping (on a low $$ order) doesn;t make financial sense for a vendor.

 i don't mean for this to be mean or insulting, but the profit on small orders does not cover the labor costs or material costs for the packaging to and time to ship your order. 

 besides, how would the squirrels ever get to travel on their vacations if they couldn't tag a ride in your shipping boxes???? they'd probably go nuts!!!!


----------



## ashmedai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fzman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i also work for a mail order company and wanted to point out that the usps does not do free pickup of packages anymore_

 

"Your mail carrier can pickup your package for no charge."

 On the front page of usps.com, right above the "Request FREE Pickup" button. I guess someone forgot to tell their webmaster? There are limitations, and I don't know that it would meet business needs if you're doing a lot of shipping, but...it's there.


----------



## Luca T

Hello guys, I'm sorry for the probably stupid questions:

 In a mini-mini interconnection cable

 -which is the difference between the normal cable (for normal I mean as appearence, all those cables covered with Techflex) and the braided cable (as appearence we can see three cable braided)that I can find on the on-line shop?
 I know that in the normal cable wires are all inside covered all toghether instead in the braided cable every wire has its-own cover then braided,
 but Is it just appearence or is there quality difference?


 I saw the star-quad cable on the Canare web-site

 -Which is the difference between the Mic star-quad cable and the Speaker star-quad cable?


 -I read the feature of the star-quad about opposite magnetic-fields on the Canare web-site, maybe I misunderstood it but why do you use in the star-quad one wire for each channel and others two wire for the ground?
 Do you use its feature by using in this way? 
 Isn't there the metal braid for the ground?


 Thank you!


----------



## leeperry

yeah I plan on cannibalizing a 1/8>2 RCA Real Cable, and they used 2 wires for L/2 wires for R and the metal braid for ground....is that bad to recable my 770 ?
 should I use 2 wires for ground instead ?


----------



## ashmedai

Pretty sure you want to ground the braid - but you do NOT want to use it for the ground signal. I'm told that doing so pretty much hoses your audio quality - remember that the ground is part of the signal path too.

 Using two wires for ground is usually AOK.


----------



## leeperry

ok thanks for the reply, that's also what I read...but if I connect the shielding to the 1/4 connector, it will still be in contact w/ the signal grounds ?!

 I think I will use 1 wire for L, 1 for R, 1 for L ground, 1 for R ground and connect the braid to the 1/4 connector ground


----------



## ashmedai

The ground wire carries the ground signal. You connect the shield to ground so that it is maintained at the ground potential, helping it prevent EM leakage in or out of the shielded region.

 Frack if I know what to do if you have distinct L & R grounds on the same cable. Pick one and stick with it, I suppose? Or if you can conveniently connect it in such a way that it gets shorted to the chassis of the amp when connected.


----------



## qusp

sounds like I need to clear a couple of things up; in star quad or any cable with 4 wires and a braided shield; you are best served to use 1 each for left and right and the other 2 for ground. DO NOt USE THE SHIELD FOR GROUND. doing this opens you up for bad quality audio. and even in some cases ground loops. in a headphone cable you would normally to be safe only connect the shield at one end; the source end. some equipment will tolerate it being connected to both ends at chassis ground, but not really a good idea to connect both ends to audio ground. also in a cable that has 2 wires and a braided shield (twisted pair) his is not designed for a stereo signal, its for a mono signal, so you would use one for signal and one for ground/return and the shield at one end or chassis ground. if connecting at both ends you must make sure that both components you are connecting have a chassis ground or again you are opening yourself up for ground loops. or for RF collected by the shield ending up in the signal. so using this sort of cable for a stereo signal would be a bad idea; no matter how tempting it may be


----------



## leeperry

ok, so the braid should be connected to the 1/4 connector ground, but NOT to the phones...makes sense, thanks!

 last question please, should I keep the common ground from my 770pro and simply solder 2 wires on it.....or is it a good idea to not keep them common and have 1 wire per L/R ground until the 1/4 connector ?
 and don't tell me it don't matter, it does...I think


----------



## ashmedai

I could use clarification, since I also said not to use the shield for the ground path - just to also connect it to ground in addition to the normal ground wire. Assuming the resistances are sufficiently large, it should be relatively inert from the circuit's perspective while improving shielding significantly. Your all-caps emphasis is a little ambiguous with regard to this method.

 I see people recommending using two of the four wires in star quad for a redundant ground all the time. What puts it at risk for a ground loop if you ground the shield?

 My connections tend to devolve into a cable jungle, so, better shielding is nice if I can get it. Ideas, perspectives, comments?


----------



## Luca T

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sounds like I need to clear a couple of things up; in star quad or any cable with 4 wires and a braided shield; you are best served to use 1 each for left and right and the other 2 for ground. DO NOt USE THE SHIELD FOR GROUND. doing this opens you up for bad quality audio. and even in some cases ground loops. in a headphone cable you would normally to be safe only connect the shield at one end; the source end. some equipment will tolerate it being connected to both ends at chassis ground, but not really a good idea to connect both ends to audio ground. also in a cable that has 2 wires and a braided shield (twisted pair) his is not designed for a stereo signal, its for a mono signal, so you would use one for signal and one for ground/return and the shield at one end or chassis ground. if connecting at both ends you must make sure that both components you are connecting have a chassis ground or again you are opening yourself up for ground loops. or for RF collected by the shield ending up in the signal. so using this sort of cable for a stereo signal would be a bad idea; no matter how tempting it may be_

 


 Understood, thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But why did they create the star-quad cable with 4 wires?
 They could do a cable with just three wires 1L,1R e 1 Ground!
 Does the ground need two wires?


----------



## dazzer1975

Ive heard on this thread that it is good practice to have a ground wire for each signal wire, hence 2 grounds for 2 channels


----------



## leeperry

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dazzer1975* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ive heard on this thread that it is good practice to have a ground wire for each signal wire, hence 2 grounds for 2 channels_

 

ok so I go like this :
 1 for L
 1 for R
 1 for L ground
 1 for R ground
 and the shielding braid connecting to the 1/4 connector ground, but NOT to the headphones


----------



## dazzer1975

Im the last person to look for advice and I would get a definitive answer from someone else but looking at this thread and what I have read I would go:

 1 left
 1 right
 braid the remaining two wires together and solder to ground on 1/4 connecter end, and other end as you say 1 left ground 1 right ground.

 shielding would then be soldered to ground on 1/4 jack ground only.

 if you can understand that?

 As above though, please seek definitive answer from someone who knows what they are doing.

 I am a complete noob but this is how I would do it from reading this thread.


----------



## leeperry

ok so I've modded my 770pro/250 w/ a neutrik 1/4 plus some very thick Real cable "high resolution" dual shielded OFC, and *******!!! it sounds good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			









 I've kept all the grounds common, coz well it's unbalanced...so who cares 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but ppl who say that recabling doesn't make any difference....need to try it


----------



## apatN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leeperry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ok so I go like this :
 1 for L
 1 for R
 1 for L ground
 1 for R ground
 and the shielding braid connecting to the 1/4 connector ground, but NOT to the headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It really won't be necessary to connect the braid to the connector's ground plateau.


----------



## leeperry

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *apatN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It really won't be necessary to connect the braid to the connector's ground plateau. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

ahhhhh, too late 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 it sounds awesome anyway, the soundstage seems wider, the mids are not muffled anymore and the bass is more controlled.

 calling recabling snake oil is nonsense


----------



## apatN

No, sorry I can not understand that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: Irresponsible forum. Damn thing. This post was meant at Dazzer1975.


----------



## leeperry

ah dammit, I've just realized that there was some arrows on the cable, prolly to tell which way the signal should go.....and I got it the opposite way, of course 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm not doing it again anyhow 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 PS: humm some tracks with counterbass(like the SNATCH soundtrack) sound really different now..


----------



## dazzer1975

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *apatN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, sorry I can not understand that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: Irresponsible forum. Damn thing. This post was meant at Dazzer1975. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

ah ok re shielding thanks for clearing that up.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Luca T* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Understood, thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But why did they create the star-quad cable with 4 wires?
 They could do a cable with just three wires 1L,1R e 1 Ground!
 Does the ground need two wires?_

 

several reasons
 1. it is better to have a ground/return per channel so each signal has ground potential that is equal to or better than the outgoing signal
 2. if it only had 3 it couldnt be used for any cable that split at some point into 2 separate channels ie. a mini to RCA or ....headphone cable
 3. it couldnt be used for a balanced anything
 4. it wouldnt be very accurate to call it star *quad* then would it??


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leeperry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ahhhhh, too late 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 it sounds awesome anyway, the soundstage seems wider, the mids are not muffled anymore and the bass is more controlled.

 calling recabling snake oil is nonsense 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

yes; but then what would they have to argue about??


----------



## ashmedai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leeperry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_calling recabling snake oil is nonsense 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't. There are facts in there. But sometimes people take them and run far afield with them.


----------



## leeperry

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_several reasons
 1. it is better to have a ground/return per channel so each signal has ground potential that is equal to or better than the outgoing signal
 2. if it only had 3 it couldnt be used for any cable that split at some point into 2 separate channels ie. a mini to RCA or ....headphone cable
 3. it couldnt be used for a balanced anything
 4. it wouldnt be very accurate to call it star *quad* then would it?? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

so keeping all the grounds common is OK for a stereo unbalanced 1/4 TRS cable ?
 I've soldered 2 wires from the quad to the common ground in the phones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and soldering the shielding braid ONLY to the 1/4 connector's ground is also recommended, I think ?
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ashmedai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't. There are facts in there. But sometimes people take them and run far afield with them._

 

I've posted my impressions here :
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/5436617-post24.html

 clearly the new cable is of much higher resolution than all my previous ones....the 770Pro is pretty darn accurate, but it doesn't cope w/ mediocrity....what you hear is what you get 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 for the record, I use the amplified headphones output(2*NE5532) of my soundcard in bit-perfect, I also used to work as a sound engineer and I've done an audio check up last week...doctor said my audition was "spot on"


----------



## ruZZ.il

Don't worry about that arrow on the cable. The arrow usually points away from where the shielding is connected to the ground. Since you did your own re-wiring, you basically physically defined your own direction


----------



## leeperry

ok thanks for the clarification 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 anyway, Real cable used some high grade OFC cable, but they used 2 wires for L, 2 for R and the OFC shielding braid for common ground......how high end is this anyway ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 also, I wanted to use 3% silver solder, but the damn thing didn't stick to the golden plated neutrik 1/4 connector, so I gave up and used regular solder..


----------



## ashmedai

Yeah, regular lead-based eutectic is very hard to beat.


----------



## thedips

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ashmedai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, regular lead-based eutectic is very hard to beat._

 

unless its cardas quad eutectic solder 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 also.. i had a question.... 
 im sure its probably in here but 55 page deep hard to search....


 what effects do you get when you mix the diferent properties of wire when making your connectors like mixing (OFC / COPPER PLATED SILVER / SILVER WIRE) for ground and signal or using different AWG for signal ground....??? 

 would it hurt much? are there general rules when doing stuff like that? etc....

 for example... using 2/20 awg stranded silver plated copper for signal and 2/22 OFC for ground ina litz braid?
 i guess in a general canare star quad cable... the ground is always double the signal since u are using 2 of the 4 connectors for ground... 

 thanks for any help in advance


----------



## ashmedai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thedips* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_unless its cardas quad eutectic solder 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Damn. I'm going to have to try that stuff; it looks interesting.


----------



## leeperry

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thedips* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_unless its cardas quad eutectic solder 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

the 3% silver solder I tried was : "Sn96,5 Ag3 Cu0,5" and lead free(RoHS)....I thought it refused to stick to the 1/4 gold neutrik coz my iron wasn't hot enough(even though it did melt).

 do you think it's because its "formula" isn't accurate for gold contact....and that the cardas would work 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thedips* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what effects do you get when you mix the diferent properties of wire when making your connectors like mixing (OFC / COPPER PLATED SILVER / SILVER WIRE) for ground and signal or using different AWG for signal ground....???_

 

I've run many searches on the forum, ppl advise against it.....copper is warmer(I agree) and the better quality it is the warmer it gets, and apparently silver is bright...prolly SPC is your best option, but I personally like very thick rubber sleeved cables, the leitz cables on ALOAUDIO look terrible.....and prolly rather annoying in everyday's life


----------



## ashmedai

Lee, were you heating the solder or the contact?

 Also if that's not a eutectic blend (I don't recognize that blend since I haven't messed with copper-bearing solders much) then get one that is...eutectic = major win.


----------



## leeperry

first I melted the solder on the iron, then I heated the solder w/ the wire in its final location....and it refused to stick, my cheapo "SN60PB" mix did work right away.

 I might consider redoing the whole thing with :
 -Cardas solder
 -using the cable in the direction shown by the arrows >>>> on its sleeve
 -not connecting the OFC shielding braid on either sides(it's connected to the 1/4 TRS ground at this point)
 -using split grounds in the phones, and not common

 the question is : will that make ANY audible difference at all


----------



## ashmedai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leeperry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_then I heated the solder w/ the wire in its final location_

 

I'm pretty sure that whenever possible you should apply heat to the thing you're trying to solder, not to the solder itself. But I'm strictly amateur-hour at this still, so maybe someone else can confirm?


----------



## leeperry

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ashmedai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm pretty sure that whenever possible you should apply heat to the thing you're trying to solder, not to the solder itself. But I'm strictly amateur-hour at this still, so maybe someone else can confirm?_

 

I pre-applied some solder on the wires, it worked fine w/ my cheapo solder....prolly my 3% silver solder isn't meant to be soldered on gold ?! I dunno


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ashmedai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm pretty sure that whenever possible you should apply heat to the thing you're trying to solder, not to the solder itself. But I'm strictly amateur-hour at this still, so maybe someone else can confirm?_

 

You're right. Soldering a headphone jack however is one of the situations where you might want to bend the rules a little. Some connectors have a poor dielectric that melts too easily, so you have to minimize the amount of time you apply heat. By putting the solder on the iron and then touching the part, you actually get better heat transfer because the surface area that is in contact increases. This can work well to minimize the time it takes to make the joint.

 There are a couple main reasons you want to apply heat to the part and let the part melt the solder. First, solder is attracted to heat, so it's hard to get it off the iron if it starts there. The other main reason is the fluxes will burn off very quickly so you may get a poorer joint if you put the solder on the iron first. By the time you try to transfer the solder to the parts, the flux is already gone and you are dealing with the first problem.

 Something that can't be stressed enough around here... if it sounds good to you, then just enjoy it


----------



## leeperry

apparently, silver solder was not created to improve the audio quality....but simply because SN60PB didn't cope with soldering on silver too well :
Welborne Labs Solder

  Quote:


 We are not 100% convinced that a silver-bearing solder actually makes an audible improvement over a nonsilver-bearing solder. In fact, some of the solders currently marketed as audiophile grade don’t even contain silver 
 

and my SN60PB would be a good choice for audio :

HeadWize: DIY Workshop > Solder wire

  Quote:


 60% Tin & 40% Lead is the type that is commonly used for electronic work. 
 

and apparently everyone advises to connect the shielding braid to the 1/4 connector ground only....

 I think I'll leave it as it is


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leeperry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_and my SN60PB would be a good choice for audio :

HeadWize: DIY Workshop > Solder wire

60% Tin & 40% Lead is the type that is commonly used for electronic work.
_

 

You definitely want a eutectic blend solder. There are several formulations that are eutectic, but I don't think 60/40 tin/lead is one of them.


----------



## ashmedai

The Sn/Pb eutectic blend is 63/37.

 60/40 is cheap, and that's pretty much all it has going for it.


----------



## leeperry

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hayduke* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You definitely want a eutectic blend solder. There are several formulations that are eutectic, but I don't think 60/40 tin/lead is one of them._

 

I will order some Cardas anyway, but do you think resoldering the neutrik 1/4 would even matter ? like the SQ improvement woud be audible ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 the headphones output in my soundcard is most likely using 60/40 anyhow


----------



## ashmedai

Soldering generally only has a SQ impact if you screw up.

 The point of eutectic alloys is that the temperature band at which it liquefies is very narrow. This means that it melts very quickly when the right temperature is reached (to which end, you set your iron appropriately if possible) and then it resolidifies quickly as it cools.


----------



## Juaquin

Yes, the idea of eutectic is that it goes immediately from solid to liquid and back - there is no pasty stage in between, which reduces the chances of causing a cold joint. 63/37 is good but I prefer 62/36/2 (silver).


----------



## ashmedai

62/36/2 is supposedly helpful for SMD work. I haven't done any of that yet, but Tangent says so, and he usually knows what's what.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leeperry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the headphones output in my soundcard is most likely using 60/40 anyhow 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Maybe, but it doesn't matter if that is eutectic or not. The advantage of eutectic blends is for hand soldering. You're sound card was manufactured using a method where the parts did not move, so there was no chance of spoiling the bond during the "pastey" stage mentioned above.

 Having worked in SMD manufacturing, I'm not 100% sure why 62/36/2 would be better. I suspect it has a lower melting point. The goal with SMD reflowing was always to get the board "just hot enough" to make good joints.


----------



## leeperry

alright, I've ordered some cardas quad solder, some black nylon sleeving and a light gray neutrik boot(to match w/ my 770 ear pads 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 )

 I'll let you guys know how that goes!

 maybe noone has a definitive answer to offer me, but I've soldered 2 wires from my quad cable to the common ground in the phones.....would that make any sense to wire them separately in the phones? it's unbalanced so I don't think it matters at all


----------



## ruZZ.il

I can think of very marginal 'more sense' to solder them together on the phone.. 

 Imagine a purely stereo signal. Lets just say, a purely LEFT signal, (Right=0). In this case, the left driver receives a signal through a single wire, and returns it through 2 wires. the return path resistance is lower.

 If the signal is purely mono, then left=right. the same signal comes in through each signal wire, and returns either:
 Left through the left ground and right through the right ground (1 signal per ground)
 or (Left and right) through the double ground. (2 signals per 2 grouns) (both pretty much the same thing)

 So, to a mono signal, there is *very little* difference in your 2 wiring options.

 To a stereo signal, the difference is larger as the difference between signals is larger.


 *very little: There is a skin effect. a phenomenon that causes most of the current to travel closer to the surface of the wire, which changes with frequency. (at very high frequencies, for instance, a solid core cable acts just like a pipe would.. you may as well use a hollow core cable  ) This effects resistance at different frequencies. if you have a doubled up return path for longer, you effectively have a larger surface area, and are less effected by the skin effect.

 so, there's that difference at least, showing some favor to doubling up on the ground all the way from the phones. There are possibly detrimental effects though, like increasing capacitance or something.. I dunno..

 I think the way you've done it is fine for now. I'd worry about it more when you have a serious amp or something.. unless you go balanced by then


----------



## leeperry

hehe ok, agreed...it's uber-nitpicking 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm still pretty impressed by how accurate the new cable has got my 770Pro/250(same drivers as the 770 consumer) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm often getting static on voices now, mostly I'm hearing how crappy their Shure SM58 mics were in the first place 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 if they were too cheap to go Neuman U87, these phones will let you hear it


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hayduke* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe, but it doesn't matter if that is eutectic or not. The advantage of eutectic blends is for hand soldering. You're sound card was manufactured using a method where the parts did not move, so there was no chance of spoiling the bond during the "pastey" stage mentioned above.

 Having worked in SMD manufacturing, I'm not 100% sure why 62/36/2 would be better. I suspect it has a lower melting point. The goal with SMD reflowing was always to get the board "just hot enough" to make good joints._

 

actually silver solder has a higher melting point; I use it for everything except really fine SMD as cardas only make the one gauge. I have been using WBT lately too, which does have a lower melting point, not sure of the mix with that except there is def silver in it. has flux core too which is handy. seems to have more flux than cardas, which i'm not sure actually has any, but I use the cardas flux paste with pretty much everything; I just put a dab on both parts after tinning, then if you are soldering connectors and cant stay too long ie. cant heat the part and apply solder to that, then with flux on both parts and a dab of solder it takes no time to form a joint. I use silver solder just because i'm IMO giving the gear its best chance; its about synergy as we know so whether I can hear a really noticeable difference between solders doesnt bother me because I know that the finished result is gonna sound the way it should. 

 leeperry:
 I dont know where you got your info on mixing wires and gauges being a bad idea??? some stranded wire eg. XLO, some cardas, oyiade and some vampire (probably many more) is made from strands of varying thicknesses not prepared cable but wire; in fact not a small proportion of all of the stock at percyaudio.com is multigauge. Even nikongod, who is very knowledgeable, but also seems very skeptical of what I guess he would call 'smoke and mirrors' uses a larger gauge on ground/return than signal if possible. OH and litz = not vulnerable at all and quite practical IMO; also less microphonic than all but multifilament; or dont you use any cover at all on you starquad or whatever??


----------



## leeperry

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_leeperry:
 I dont know where you got your info on mixing wires and gauges being a bad idea??? some stranded wire eg. XLO, some cardas, oyiade and some vampire (probably many more) is made from strands of varying thicknesses not prepared cable but wire; in fact not a small proportion of all of the stock at percyaudio.com is multigauge. Even nikongod, who is very knowledgeable, but also seems very skeptical of what I guess he would call 'smoke and mirrors' uses a larger gauge on ground/return than signal if possible. OH and litz = not vulnerable at all and quite practical IMO; also less microphonic than all but multifilament; or dont you use any cover at all on you starquad or whatever??_

 

ok ok, I'm n00bish....I was just reporting what I read while running searches, some ppl said that mixing copper/SPC/silver was pretty darn hard to "stabilize".

 well my Real cable OFC quad has a very thick rubber sleeve, and I will add nylon sleeving on top of it...I mostly use my 770 on my sound card when sitting in front of the PC, so I ain't too worried about microphonics


----------



## thedips

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ashmedai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn. I'm going to have to try that stuff; it looks interesting._

 

YES! by all means... i just finshed my 1st cable as posted it in the cable thread... i did so much research before actually soldering anything.. just watching eutectic solder go from liquid to hard instantaneous is just amazing on its own... and the solder is super shiny ....



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leeperry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the 3% silver solder I tried was : "Sn96,5 Ag3 Cu0,5" and lead free(RoHS)....I thought it refused to stick to the 1/4 gold neutrik coz my iron wasn't hot enough(even though it did melt).

 do you think it's because its "formula" isn't accurate for gold contact....and that the cardas would work 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 I've run many searches on the forum, ppl advise against it.....copper is warmer(I agree) and the better quality it is the warmer it gets, and apparently silver is bright...prolly SPC is your best option, but I personally like very thick rubber sleeved cables, the leitz cables on ALOAUDIO look terrible.....and prolly rather annoying in everyday's life 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 thank you for the advice here... im just hesitant to use spc because a brighter sound isnt what im actually looking for... i think ill stick to just very high quality pure coper... possibly stranded vampire wire for my next build... maybe ill do spc interconnects.... but then im still thinking about which amp and dac to go with ....

 so lots to still think about...


----------



## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_there is a place in brisbane that sells starquad separately. i'll post a link tomorrow once I dig it out. cant remember the name ATM but I have it saved somewhere._

 

I know it's a bit old, but these guys sell starquad for $4pm in Oz. Custom Audio Cables 

 Also, the Jaycar quad cable is imo identical, with the benefit of having 4 different colours making channel selection easier at the other end!


----------



## leeperry

woohah, this cardas solder is quite a blast 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 170C fusion point, very easy to solder as it goes from liquid to hard in a second....thanks for the advice fellas!


----------



## Baird GoW

Any body know how to make one of the following or even where to buy a nice: optical, digital coaxial, or USB for me to connect my prelude (or my computer if its via usb) to my Audio GD Compass (DAC). 
 Also are are any of those better than the other for audio.


----------



## leeperry

hummmm I've just bought a consumer DT770, and the stock cable is so light that I almost have the feeling that it's wireless 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 my 10ft Real Cable OFC had a very thick and heavy 1/4" rubber sleeve that made it rather annoying to use 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've read that some ppl didn't like SPC coz it was too bright, and I like the sound of the Real Cable OFC anyway...so I've stripped the rubber sleeve :





 added a black nylon sleeve, a neutrik 1/4 and here we go :


----------



## thedips

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leeperry* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_woohah, this cardas solder is quite a blast 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 170C fusion point, very easy to solder as it goes from liquid to hard in a second....thanks for the advice fellas!_

 


 ur welcome!


----------



## Netdewt

I tried looking through this thread, but it's just so huge. Possibly stupid questions:

 1. With RCA-RCA interconnects, is it best to have a 4-conductor wire, with a Y at both ends, or just have two 2-conductor wires? 

 2. Is there a recommended wire for the 2-conductor? I'm not sure where to look.

 3. Also, is it shown anywhere how to do the Y split?


----------



## Netdewt

Okay, more.

 Are speaker cables and interconnects pretty much the same to make? I'm assuming I'll have banana jacks (not sure how that all works yet, I'll wait to make these cables until I have my stuff). The RCA plugs were easy to find, but I can't seem to find any info about speaker terminations. I'm looking for good brands, materials, attachment method etc. Also, with the Canare 4S11, since there are 4 conductors, would I just join them at the ends for a standard (not bi-wired) cable?


----------



## ILAMtitan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Netdewt* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, more.

 Are speaker cables and interconnects pretty much the same to make? I'm assuming I'll have banana jacks (not sure how that all works yet, I'll wait to make these cables until I have my stuff). The RCA plugs were easy to find, but I can't seem to find any info about speaker terminations. I'm looking for good brands, materials, attachment method etc. Also, with the Canare 4S11, since there are 4 conductors, would I just join them at the ends for a standard (not bi-wired) cable?_

 


 Speaker cables and interconnects are not really interchangeable as far as the wire goes. Interconnects are typically low volt, low current lines. 
 Your normal speaker will draw far more current over the line, and subsequently require a wire that can handle it. As far as termination, this depends on your setup. The amp and speakers may even have different physical connections that you will have to build for. I've seen many with banana jacks, some with the screw posts, and others just crimp down on the wire. Your best bet would be to find out what kind of power you need, and jacks, then go from there. For a lot of my home theater stuff, I've had success ordering from Parts-Express, but someone else here may have a better source.


----------



## PascalT

Is anyone here offering their services to build Sennheiser cables? If so I'd like to know more about it. I'm looking to upgrade from the stock cable but not at "retail prices". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 pm me!


----------



## leeperry

guys, I'm having a good deal on this OCC wire : CryoParts Copper Hook Up Wire

 so I think I'll build a 10ft cable for my DT770, hopefully the mono-crystal copper will do wonders....I'll be using a furutech 1/4" and will keep it single-entry but I'll rewire the cable that goes between the 2 cups 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'm just not sure if I wanna go quad or simply keep 3 wires ?! some ppl say that the ground should exceed the 2 other wires, and some say it shouldn't 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and should I litzbraid it? some ppl say that it increases the skin effect(my worst nightmare) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW, I found this post very interesting...as I've noticed IRL several of the things he's pinpointing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f21/si...6/#post3160410


----------



## leeperry

oh well, I read that braiding avoided getting loops on the cable after a while...it happens all the time on my stock cable, so I'm sold


----------



## endless402

bought some kimber PBJ and tried to make an interconnect RCA to RCA.


 i hear a bit of buzzing from time to time?

 i connected 1 lead wire and 2 grounds, is that correct?


----------



## wahchile

I'd like some clarification on something if you guys could help. I'd like to make a 15' extension cable for my Grados to my amp. It would be 1/4" jack on one side and a 1/4" plug on the other. 

 If I used star quad cable, would I solder the 2 blues together, the 2 whites together, then solder the pairs to signal and ground one each side of the cord? 

 I don't have to do anything with any braiding do I? I don't really understand the "solder the braid on the source side only" stuff.

 Sort of like this?







 Never mind, it's stereo, so I know where all the wires go.


----------



## Ricochet

I want to make short RCA/RCA interconnects that will connect my DAC to amplifier.
 I got two wires that I can use and wonder which is better for a job.
 One is Canare L-4E6S starquad and other is Canare LV-61S Coax.
 Which one should I use?


----------



## Bonthouse

Depends. If you want minimal crosstalk, go with the coax, if you want easy-peasy, go for the starquad


----------



## Ricochet

Hehe, I don’t want easy peasy. So coax is better right? And I just solder centre to tip and shield to outer of RCA connector?


----------



## Bonthouse

Correct you are! Please do put some pics up in the DIY cable gallery


----------



## iamwhoiam

1x RCA Phono to 1x RCA Phono using Starquad... Do I just tie signal to both white wires and ground to both blue ones?


----------



## Ricochet

Hi,
 I’ve started doing my RCA interconnects last night using Yarbo 50RB plugs which were recommended earlier in a tread. The problem is, at first I couldn’t find the spot to solder shield to and after some searching on the net I found tutorial where similar plugs (probably cardas) are used. And then I discovered “bridge” which I need to bend and solder shield to. Well, I did so and that little bridge shattered on 4 pieces. I didn’t use a lot of force. What I’m doing wrong?


----------



## Tightwad

Wow...I actually read all 58 pages of this, as well as browsed the Cable Gallery. I had a few questions that eventually were answered, like the size difference between Star Quad and Mini Start Quad (6mm and 4.5mm respectively). I learned a TON about building all sorts of cables...which as I only do mini-mini currently I won't need to know.

 The one thing I saw a lot of people asking, but not answering, was.."Where is a good place to buy small quantities and not get taken on shipping etc).

 I run my own electrical (motorcycle wiring harnesses and parts) business, so I am fully aware of how much it costs to ship, and the time involved. $11 for shipping a tiny box is insane...but Markertek has the best assortment. Anywhere else carry the mini star quad cable in red, and the Neutrik or Switchcraft angled mini ends? Worse than paying too much for shipping is paying too much for shipping from two seperate places!

 I need to build a 6-8" mini-mini cable for my MP3 Player to amp, as well as look at options to go from Amp to my Motorcycle helmet (helmet speakers, not ear buds as I wear ear plugs)


----------



## gychang

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tightwad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ $11 for shipping a tiny box is insane...but Markertek has the best assortment. Anywhere else carry the mini star quad cable in red, and the Neutrik or Switchcraft angled mini ends? Worse than paying too much for shipping is paying too much for shipping from two seperate places!_

 

Tightwad, you are my kind of guy, exact question I wonder about.

 gychang


----------



## FallenAngel

Redco


----------



## nullstring

dale pro audio has many plugs and has free shipping.

 I buy cable from either markertek or redco and plugs from dale pro audio


----------



## nickosha

I work for an electrical company where I build and wire PLC's. How good would an interconnect made of cat5, stranded copper wire (any gauge), or any other common wire types I could find around the shop be?

 I'll definitely make some higher quality cable when I make a better project, but I'm kind of looking for a quick fix right now.


----------



## Hayduke

Using exotic materials really only helps you in the last 10% or so of audio quality (OK maybe 20% hehe).

 If you're going to make your first interconnect, use the cheapest parts you can find for the practice. Get the connectors from radio shack and use that cat5 you have laying around. How will it sound? It won't be the best thing you've ever heard, but if you haven't heard a high end cable, you may not notice a difference.


----------



## specto

what kind of techflex (size) do I need for the mini star quad cable. I need it for a stereo rca cable, so ya.


----------



## JamesL

Techflex is very expandable. mogami and canare mini star quad has a 4.8mm diameter.
 Use larger for full-coverage, and smaller for a more transparent coverage.


----------



## specto

So 1/4", 1/8"....


----------



## cyberspyder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *specto* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So 1/4", 1/8"...._

 

I bought 3/16" nylon multifilament and it fits snugly on Canare/Mogami Starquad.


----------



## apatN

^ Are you sure? I just ordered the 1/4 for Mogami. Do you think I am better off with the 3/16?


----------



## specto

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought 3/16" nylon multifilament and it fits snugly on Canare/Mogami Starquad._

 

Starquad Mini?


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *apatN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^ Are you sure? I just ordered the 1/4 for Mogami. Do you think I am better off with the 3/16?_

 

100% sure.


----------



## apatN

Thanks. I canceled my order.


----------



## rayk

Hey guys, just reposting this from the other thread (as this thread is more appropriate).

 Anyway I'm building a DT250 straight cable using these:

 - Mogami 2893 Minature Quad 4.8 OD cable
 - Beyer 7pin adaptor
 - Neutrik NP3X-B 3-Pole Stereo 1/4" 

 I've been told that you can't really fit techflex under the NP3X with the Mog 2893 cable, but I'm thinking - any way I can make this work by heat shrinking over the jack plug and cable?

 The other issue is that I can't find 3/16" sleeving in aus - I've got a choice between 6mm (1/4") and 3mm (1/8")... Or should I not bother with this unless I can find 3/16" sleeving?

 Also should I use 10mm (2:1) heat shrink for this?

 Big Thanks! I apologise for all the noob questions, it's my first time making a cable (my dad will help with the soldering as he is pro).


----------



## nattonrice

The 1/8" flex will be tighter on the 2893 but still easily doable.
 It actually looks pretty nice on the colored Mogami as it shows thru o(^-^)o

 I live in AU as well so I feel your pain... Wirecare's shipping on Nylon Multi style pain.


----------



## rayk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nattonrice* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 1/8" flex will be tighter on the 2893 but still easily doable.
 It actually looks pretty nice on the colored Mogami as it shows thru o(^-^)o

 I live in AU as well so I feel your pain... Wirecare's shipping on Nylon Multi style pain._

 

Alrite, I'm going to order 1/8" from Gammod then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## trebor1

I'm new here and to the whole headphone scene, I recently got my first mp3 player, headphone amp, IEMs and am really enjoying it so far. Now, I think I want to try my hand at building an interconnect for them. 

 I just ordered some canare mini star quad to do my first DIY mini to mini cable but am unsure of how to solder the mini star quad, is it the same as the regular star quad, being four conductors...two go to ground and one each to the left and right, and cut off the sheilding on the ends? Or, do I use two conductors on each, left and right, and use the sheilding as the ground?


----------



## FallenAngel

Wire for ground is generally preferred.


----------



## trebor1

Thank you for answering. I think that's what I'll go with then.


----------



## brschmid

nice to see my thread still around


----------



## The Monkey

Thanks for stopping by!


----------



## Eugene.C

This thread is very useful. Thank you brschmid.


----------



## chanzhf

http://www.lutheransonline.com/lo/19...409-913197.jpg

 How do i make this y split exactly? Some experienced DIY-ers plz help! I wanna make a 3.5mm to RCA. Thanks!


----------



## RubbberDucky

I am new to all of this and I want to get into making some of this stuff as a hobby/for convenience. I was wondering what type of solder to buy (is silver necessary?) What is some good starter stuff, after looking at my shopping cart with all the stuff you said to get this would be quite expensive because of shipping. Shipping for 20ft of StarQuad costs more than the blasted wire! What would be some good wire from Parts Express? They have more of the things that I would want and maybe I can save by shipping from the same site.

 Also, does anyone know of a video tutorial of this? I might just have to make one someday if there isn't.


----------



## DoYouRight

fantastically helpful. thanks for the pics to show the sleeving


----------



## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RubbberDucky* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am new to all of this and I want to get into making some of this stuff as a hobby/for convenience. I was wondering what type of solder to buy (is silver necessary?) What is some good starter stuff, after looking at my shopping cart with all the stuff you said to get this would be quite expensive because of shipping. Shipping for 20ft of StarQuad costs more than the blasted wire! What would be some good wire from Parts Express? They have more of the things that I would want and maybe I can save by shipping from the same site.

 Also, does anyone know of a video tutorial of this? I might just have to make one someday if there isn't._

 

Silver solder is not necessary and not preferred unless you are soldering silver contacts.

 Don't worry much about shipping, it's generally the same price from most places and you aren't likely to pay all that much anyway. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I like Redco for an all-inclusive store with reasonable prices on everything. For high-end stuff, Percy and SonicCraft are nice.


----------



## RubbberDucky

[


----------



## RubbberDucky

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FallenAngel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Silver solder is not necessary and not preferred unless you are soldering silver contacts.

 Don't worry much about shipping, it's generally the same price from most places and you aren't likely to pay all that much anyway. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I like Redco for an all-inclusive store with reasonable prices on everything. For high-end stuff, Percy and SonicCraft are nice._

 

Thanks for the advice! Like I said I am very new to all of this, I am waiting for my first lower high-end earphones (Etymotic HF2s) at the moment and I figured I would look around the site while I waited these long days and I decided I would like to make some of my own cables. I just don't want to spend $100 doing it right away. I got my cart down to $55 for all the things needed except for solder and wire, which will cost $20 each. The wire cost about $10 plus $11 shipping(For 20ft). I figured I will wait and just order bulk once I have the money. However, I have some old CAT5 cable I found laying around that I figure I can start out with, just learning the very basics of soldering and all.

 What solder is preferred for some standard Neutrik plugs?


----------



## FallenAngel

I use Cardas Quad-Eutectic exclusively as it's so easy to work with. I'm feeling in a good mood today, if you PM me your address, I can send you some very nice Thermax SPC and some connectors for a much smaller cost than you'll get retail and you'll be building in 2 days.


----------



## RubbberDucky

When making an RCA - 3.5 Mini interconnect is it alright to twist the two ground wires together on the Mini end? 

 This is my first interconnect and thanks to FallenAngel it is looking pretty sweet!


----------



## Graphicism

Planning to do my first headphone recabeling, having scoured through the DIY pages I think I have everything I but also have a couple questions.

*• What size Techflex do I need for the main part of the cable from the plug to the Y section, and what size do I need from the Y to each speaker?
 • Which particular cable would be best for bringing out the mids, tightening up the bass on say a DT770?*

Neutrik NYS231BG 3.5mm TRS Stereo plug

Canare Star Quad Microphone Cable
*-or-*
Mogami W2534 Quad Mic Cable

Flexo PET - 1/4"
 Flexo PET - 1/8"

Shrinkflex Polyolefin Heatshrink Tubing - 2/1 - 1/4"
 Shrinkflex Polyolefin Heatshrink Tubing - 2/1 - 1/8"


----------



## RubbberDucky

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Graphicism* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Planning to do my first headphone recabeling, having scoured through the DIY pages I think I have everything I but also have a couple questions.

*• What size Techflex do I need for the main part of the cable from the plug to the Y section, and what size do I need from the Y to each speaker?
 • Which particular cable would be best for bringing out the mids, tightening up the bass on say a DT770?*

Neutrik NYS231BG 3.5mm TRS Stereo plug

Canare Star Quad Microphone Cable
*-or-*
Mogami W2534 Quad Mic Cable

Flexo PET - 1/4"
 Flexo PET - 1/8"

Shrinkflex Polyolefin Heatshrink Tubing - 2/1 - 1/4"
 Shrinkflex Polyolefin Heatshrink Tubing - 2/1 - 1/8"_

 


 Well I may be a noob, but you could probably just use the same size techflex for both, I did on my mini-RCA cable. *But I used Nylon Multi-filament sleeving. Ive been told it is better, but more expensive.

 I don't think you are looking at the right cables for headphones... Id go with some mini Mogami or Starquad... Regular is so thick... :/

 This if I am not mistaken... (Experts Correct me)

Mogami Wire & Cable Corp. Mogami 2799 Neglex Mini Quad Console Cable Bulk Audio Cable at Markertek.com

 Or

Canare Corporation Of America Canare L-4E5C Miniature Star-Quad (0.189in O.D.) Audio Cable Bulk Audio Cable at Markertek.com


----------



## Graphicism

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RubbberDucky* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I may be a noob, but you could probably just use the same size techflex for both, I did on my mini-RCA cable. *But I used Nylon Multi-filament sleeving. Ive been told it is better, but more expensive.

 I don't think you are looking at the right cables for headphones... Id go with some mini Mogami or Starquad... Regular is so thick... :/_

 

Thanks for pointing that out, I think I'll go with the Starquad you linked too.

 Heres what I'm thinking; from the plug to the Y I will leave the cable cover on the wires, and cover it with sleeving. From the Y to each cup I get a little lost, not sure if I just use shrinkflex or...

I'd like the cable to look like this one from skyline889:

 Nice looking cable and sheath from the 3.5mm to the Y, and after that just a neat looking cover upto the headphone.

 Also do I NEED a heatgun or can I use a hair dryer or something similar?


----------



## RubbberDucky

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Graphicism* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for pointing that out, I think I'll go with the Starquad you linked too.

 Heres what I'm thinking; from the plug to the Y I will leave the cable cover on the wires, and cover it with sleeving. From the Y to each cup I get a little lost, not sure if I just use shrinkflex or...

I'd like the cable to look like this one from skyline889:

 Nice looking cable and sheath from the 3.5mm to the Y, and after that just a neat looking cover upto the headphone.

 Also do I NEED a heatgun or can I use a hair dryer or something similar?_

 


 Ohhh ok. You probably want to check out the Nylon sleeving like I was talking about, it feels more like a fabric, rather than a plastic, which I am assuming Techflex feels like. It appears that he just used the nylon sleeving and heatshrinked, or something similar to it, the wires at the Y after stripping off their outer casing of course.

 Link! https://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=NM

 I thought you meant you wanted it to look like this cable I am making, which has sleeving on the separate wires after the Y. Take a look. * I used the same sleeving, but I suppose you could buy smaller sleeving for after the Y and it might actually work/look better*

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...y/DSC_0003.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...y/DSC_0001.jpg

 I didn't want to spend decades heatshrinking, so I bought a cheap $20 heatgun at Home Depot. Its not much, but it gets way hotter than a hairdryer and it does the job! I figure I can upgrade later if necessary. Im pretty sure it has a year warranty too...


----------



## Graphicism

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RubbberDucky* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ohhh ok. You probably want to check out the Nylon sleeving like I was talking about, it feels more like a fabric, rather than a plastic, which I am assuming Techflex feels like. It appears that he just used the nylon sleeving and heatshrinked, or something similar to it, the wires at the Y after stripping off their outer casing of course._

 

Yes I'll definately buy the one you suggested, what size would I need for the mini Starquad?

 I heard something about shrink tape, simply applying it and it shrinks without the need to heat up which I might look into it. The Y section still might need one of the ones I linked too, I might even add an extra bit of tubing.

 Sleeving after the Y does look stunning but I don't think it would work in this instance, I'm planning to recable a Sony XB500 and I'd like to re-use there sleeving.. as seen here (the bit the wire goes into before the headphone):


----------



## pdupiano

When I built my modded 780's I used the Sony XB500 as the housing (felt it was more stable than the stock 780 chassis). You can recable and reuse the Grommets or strain relief, but its a pain to push wire through it because they are designed for flat wire.


----------



## Graphicism

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdupiano* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When I built my modded 780's I used the Sony XB500 as the housing (felt it was more stable than the stock 780 chassis). You can recable and reuse the Grommets or strain relief, but its a pain to push wire through it because they are designed for flat wire._

 

You put your HFI-780 speakers in the XB500 housing... as in you did a total transplant, comfy sony ear-cushions to boot? If I understand you correctly and the operation was a success how did it sound? ... did you then put the XB500 speakers in the Ultrasone chassis?

 Regarding reuse of the grommets (which I referred too as sleeving) it looks like I can just squeeze it and fit a round shape cable through no problem, there is a plastic cap on the inside that I can just pop off... at least that's how it looks.


----------



## pdupiano

I actually didn't use the XB pads, I ended up using a smaller set of pads from another pair of headphones (pleather pads). I wound up using the XB pads on my grado BS1000 mod to help with the grado's lower end response and bass impact. The xb500 drivers are currently lying somewhere in my parts box, I wasn't overly impressed with them, but I'll probably put them in something later on. 

 The XB pads with the ultrasone drivers still gave you a very "closed in effect" I prefer the open sound that you get from grados and other open headphones. I feel that a well designed closed headphone (eg the d2000's) can come close to that open sound, and the 780 drivers + pleather pads and the sony chassis was a good combination. The only downside is that the XB housing allows the drivers to rotate up and down. It might be a bit confusing, but look at your xb500's, and try moving the drivers, you'll notice that they rotate on a different axis versus the RX700's, or sennheisers.


----------



## RubbberDucky

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Graphicism* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes I'll definately buy the one you suggested, what size would I need for the mini Starquad?_

 

I am honestly not sure, I purchased mine from someone on the forums helping me get started. It would be ok so go a little too big though, it fits pretty tightly if you pull it over the cord. Try to find out what size Techflex someone would put on Starquad mini, I am sure the sizes run the same.


----------



## Carter54

Is there one online vendor where you can get quad star cable, both RCA and 1/8th in connectors and nylon techflex with reasonable prices? I have found everything I want but its scattered all over the net.


----------



## cyberspyder

TakeFiveAudio? Redco?


----------



## swbf2cheater

I wish headphones makers would also make special adapters that out to mini for each headphone set they make, I hate the 10 ft cord lunacy. Rather than cutting the cord, I wish Sennheiser would just make a universal adapter you can use, and get your own cord to plug into that, standard mini to whatever you want. :[


----------



## Graphicism

.. could someone tell me the size of sleeving and what material is used to cover the cables after the Y section on this cable skyline889 made please.

 I'll be using Nylon Mulitfilament Braided Sleeving from Wirecare.


----------



## skyline889

The material used after the split was just standard red/black heatshrink.


----------



## Helgen

I'm assuming that this tutorial is so that you can actually get an rca output on your headphones? 

 So I'm wondering how it'd be possible for me to do this, or if anyone had did this with Sony MDR-V700's, I'm about to stop using mines, but I'd LOVE if I can use a thinner cable and less longer for them, because god darn is the cable long on them, and very annoying and tangly!


----------



## Graphicism

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *skyline889* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The material used after the split was just standard red/black heatshrink._

 

Great, thanks for sharing! I've never heard or seen heatshrink until now.


----------



## skyline889

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Graphicism* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great, thanks for sharing! I've never heard or seen heatshrink until now._

 

No problem. eBay is sometimes cheap for heatshrink or you can order from Cableorganizer/Wirecare.


----------



## Graphicism

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *skyline889* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No problem. eBay is sometimes cheap for heatshrink or you can order from Cableorganizer/Wirecare._

 

I actually ordered some heatshrink from ebay this morning, it's 4mm... hope thats wide enough for 2 single wires.


----------



## Tordenskjold

---ANGRY RANT WARNING--- 

 Ok, I am apparently too clumsy/stupid/frustrated to make a **** interconnect. I fumbled around trying to fit these *** wires in the even more ***-up plug. I used neutrik 231 mini connectors like these:






 and a microphone cable with 2 wires and copper shielding which i intended to use as ground pole on the connectors. then I went after the manual on page 1, and after about 30 minutes the damn wires were finally in these microscopic holes. Another 30 minutes and several burned fingers later the little bastards were in place. aleeve over them, screwng up the housing of the plug and a bit of heat-shrink, repeat on the other end in about the same time... the great moment: I plugged it in and... heavy noises, one channel went missing and reappeared when i turned the wire, bent the wire, and whatnot. --> DAMN. Ok, must have done it wrong - everything out again and anew... 

 I did the whole process for about 3 times before firing the destroyed cable in the bin and putting the plugs away for later use. I even tried different cable, three single wires from an old adapter (cinch --> 3,5mm like above) and again the same process. With the same results. 

 ATM I use a 75cm cable to connect my DAP to my amp and that sucks - so what now? The worst thing: when I twisted the small interconnect the right way, it sounded way better then the blasted 75cm crappy cable I am using right now!


----------



## specto

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tordenskjold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_---ANGRY RANT WARNING--- 

 Ok, I am apparently too clumsy/stupid/frustrated to make a **** interconnect. I fumbled around trying to fit these *** wires in the even more ***-up plug. I used neutrik 231 mini connectors like these:







 and a microphone cable with 2 wires and copper shielding which i intended to use as ground pole on the connectors. then I went after the manual on page 1, and after about 30 minutes the damn wires were finally in these microscopic holes. Another 30 minutes and several burned fingers later the little bastards were in place. aleeve over them, screwng up the housing of the plug and a bit of heat-shrink, repeat on the other end in about the same time... the great moment: I plugged it in and... heavy noises, one channel went missing and reappeared when i turned the wire, bent the wire, and whatnot. --> DAMN. Ok, must have done it wrong - everything out again and anew... 

 I did the whole process for about 3 times before firing the destroyed cable in the bin and putting the plugs away for later use. I even tried different cable, three single wires from an old adapter (cinch --> 3,5mm like above) and again the same process. With the same results. 

 ATM I use a 75cm cable to connect my DAP to my amp and that sucks - so what now? The worst thing: when I twisted the small interconnect the right way, it sounded way better then the blasted 75cm crappy cable I am using right now! 




_

 

Practice makes perfect.


----------



## Tordenskjold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *specto* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Practice makes perfect. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Too late, found one in 30cm length and it´s better than anything i could ever build. 






 it´s even cheaper to buy then two neutrik plugs and the wire together.


----------



## skyline889

You do know those Neutriks pictured are 1/4" and not 1/8" right?


----------



## bik2101

can anyone tell me where i can buy either 3:1 or 4:1 adhesive walled heat shrink? i usually get my stuff at wirecare but they only care adhesive shrink in 2:1


----------



## TwinFinnley

..


----------



## zoneykid

I want to start making interconnects and i was wondering what i should start with.

 I'm thinking of getting some 
2:1 Heatshrink Tubing 
Multifilament Braided Nylon Sleeving 

Tecnec 1/8" stereo plug 
 -or-
 Canare F-12 

 The RCA connector's i'm either going to use some i found on an unused cable or order some(i wouldn't mind some cheap recommendations)

 I have some cable i snagged from my brother's Cable Recycling bin(he's an electrician) that's very similar to starquad except the wires are colored(not just white and blue)

 If you guys want i can post pictures of my available materials.


----------



## zoneykid

I'm planning to make a mini-rca cable using these parts, opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Switchcraft 35HDBAU 3.5 Stereo Phone Plug
Neutrik NYS352G Male RCA
Nylon Expandable Cable Sleeve<br />
[url="http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/shopexd.asp?id=688&bc=no]Cardas TE Solder 10 Gram Pack[/url]

 I already have a 3/16" cable i nabbed from my brother's cable recycling bin(he's an electrician)

 Also, would it be better to splice a new mini plug on my UE Super.Fi 3's or to make my own cable?


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bik2101* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can anyone tell me where i can buy either 3:1 or 4:1 adhesive walled heat shrink? i usually get my stuff at wirecare but they only care adhesive shrink in 2:1_

 

DigiKey or Mouser. I believe both sell adhesive 3:1 and 4:1. I'm more confident that DigiKey has it since I've ordered some, but I seem to recall Mouser had it also.


----------



## zoneykid

I'm planning to make a LOD-mini and mini(female)-rca using these parts, opinions would be appreciated.

 Switchcraft 35HDBAU 3.5 Stereo Phone Plug
 Neutrik NYS352G Male RCA <br />
[url="http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/shopexd.asp?id=837&bc=no] Neutrik NYS240BG 3.5 Stereo Female Mini plug [/url]
 5 Feet of Legenburg MCRPC 24 AWG 
 10 Feet of Nylon Expandable Cable Sleeve 3/16" Dia. Black 
 3 Feet of Nylon Expandable Cable Sleeve 3/8" Dia. Black<br />
[url="http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/shopexd.asp?id=688&bc=no] Cardas TE Solder 10 Gram Pack [/url]

 Some cable i nabbed from my brother's Cable Recycle bin(he's an electrician)


----------



## zoneykid

I'm planning to make a LOD-mini and mini(female)-rca using these parts, opinions would be appreciated.

 Switchcraft 35HDBAU 3.5 Stereo Phone Plug
 Neutrik NYS352G Male RCA <br />
[url="http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/shopexd.asp?id=837&bc=no] Neutrik NYS240BG 3.5 Stereo Female Mini plug [/url]
 5 Feet of Legenburg MCRPC 24 AWG 
 10 Feet of Nylon Expandable Cable Sleeve 3/16" Dia. Black 
 3 Feet of Nylon Expandable Cable Sleeve 3/8" Dia. Black 
 Cardas TE Solder 10 Gram Pack 
 And some cable i nabbed from my brother's Cable Recycle bin(he's an electrician)
 The iPod dock connectors I'm purchasing from Qables


----------



## fyleow

I'm thinking of building a replacement cable for my Sennheiser HD 600s.

 For the parts I saw some suggestions on using the Mogami 2534 which are inexpensive compared to the Cardas 4x24 cables. I also found the Cardas plug being sold on eBay so I will go with those.

 On those cardas connectors you are supposed to fill it with hot glue after soldering. I don't have a hot glue gun...would heat shrink alone provide sufficient strain relief? Maybe filling it with some other adhesive like super glue?

Cardas HPSC Plugs for DIY Sennheiser Headphone Cables - eBay (item 250506859969 end time Oct-30-09 14:54:39 PDT)


----------



## John E Woven

Epoxy will work very well as well.

 Of course, test the cable before heatshrinking and gluing and such..


----------



## fyleow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John E Woven* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Epoxy will work very well as well.

 Of course, test the cable before heatshrinking and gluing and such.._

 

Ok, cool.

 So here's the part list I came up with:


 6 ft Mogami W2534

Neutrik X-Series 1/4


 4' PVC Heat Shrink Tubing- 3/8in Diameter - Black


 4' Flexible PVC Heat Shrink Tubing 1/4-Inch Diameter - Black and Red

 Does that list look ok? I'm going to use the 1/4 heat shrink for the L and R parts after the Y split. Would 3/16 be better here?

 3/8 would be for the Y split.


----------



## skyline889

PVC heatshrink is nasty stuff, get yourself some Polyolefin heatshrink. Finished product is much nicer.


----------



## fyleow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *skyline889* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PVC heatshrink is nasty stuff, get yourself some Polyolefin heatshrink. Finished product is much nicer._

 

I actually ended up ordering from Redco instead and bought this heatshrink tubing. I'm not sure if they are PVC or Polyolefin though as it doesn't say. If they are PVC I *think* I can source some Polyolefin locally from Fry's Electornics though, I'll have to check.

Redco Audio


----------



## skyline889

Pretty sure the Redco stuff is Polyolefin, the PVC shrink is usually less common. Otherwise, you can pick some up off eBay, Wirecare, Cable Organizer, etc.


----------



## FrozenGecko

Are Female connectors as easy to put on wire as male connectors?

 (sorry kinda a newb question.)


----------



## xsoundx

was looking to order about 10ft of star-quad from markertek.
 Cable price $4.90
 Shipping: $11.36

 YIKES!

 needless to say I did not order. I am looking for a couple feet for my 231 mini plugs. Anyone got a place that doesn't stiff you on shipping?


----------



## FrozenGecko

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xsoundx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_was looking to order about 10ft of star-quad from markertek.
 Cable price $4.90
 Shipping: $11.36

 YIKES!

 needless to say I did not order. I am looking for a couple feet for my 231 mini plugs. Anyone got a place that doesn't stiff you on shipping?_

 

Where do you live?


----------



## xsoundx

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FrozenGecko* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where do you live?_

 

Southern California


----------



## bik2101

you check redco's shipping? i think they have pretty decent shipping costs.


----------



## fyleow

Redco shipping was almost identical to Markertek for Nor Cal. It IS a few dollars cheaper though and they ship using priority mail so you might as well.


----------



## fyleow

Bad news. When I wiggle the cable connecting to the Sennehisers the sounds cuts off sometimes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I guess I will need to order another set of cardas connectors.


----------



## metro_ear

good job i want same too DIY my cable


----------



## FrozenGecko

Here's my parts list thus far.
Neutrik USA Inc Neutrik NTP3RC and NTP3RC-B 3.5mm Audio Plug 3.5, 2.5mm Mini Connectors at Markertek.com

Canare Corporation Of America Canare L-4E6S Star Quad Micophone Cable Bulk Audio Cable at Markertek.com

Amazon.com: Techflex PTN0.38BK50 3/8"x50' Black Flexo Pet Sleeving: Industrial & Scientific

 I'm just wondering what heat shrink tubing I should get from here Parts & Accessories Heat Shrink Tubing at Markertek.com

 Should I worry about the type of solder on I use? I know my brother has some that he uses on pinball machines and such, so that should be fine, i think...

 This will be my first time making a interconnect so I just wanna make sure I got my bases covered!

 Thanks!


----------



## FrozenGecko

Anyone who is wiser than I please give me a response on my parts list >_<?


----------



## The Monkey

You may need to drill out the entry hole to that plug a little bit to fit the cable, but someone else probably knows more than I.


----------



## FrozenGecko

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You may need to drill out the entry hole to that plug a little bit to fit the cable, but someone else probably knows more than I._

 

Can anyone confirm this? if so, will it affect the structural integrity of the plug?


----------



## FrozenGecko

grrr... looks as if this thread gets ignored...


----------



## bik2101

yeah your going to want to remove the rubber at the bottom of the RA neutrik plug. i would recommend getting some adhesive heatshrink for that area after the cable is connected to the plug though for additional strain relief.


----------



## FrozenGecko

What size heat shrink do you guys recommend for Canare Corporation Of America Canare L-4E6S Star Quad Micophone Cable Bulk Audio Cable at Markertek.com


----------



## Anonanimal

You want to go a little bigger than the outer jacket, typically...

Canare Corp.: Star Quad Series: Star Quad Microphone cable(L-4E6S / L-4E5C)


----------



## FrozenGecko

thanks for all the great help!! I decided to order the following...

 Canare L-4E6S Star-Quad Microphone Cable White
 Switch Craft Right Angle 3.5mm 3 Conductor Plug with Nickel Handle and Plug
 Heat Shrink Tubing 3/8in. Black

 I looked in my email and saw a email from them that the order was complete and shipped. Along with the above I saw this... lol??
*[MTK-SLIM] Markertek Slim Jim - Latest Edition*

 at first I thought it was a 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 but it turns out its just a "slim" catalog =p Markertek Markertek Catalog - Latest Edition Markertek Catalog at Markertek.com

 Also ordered http://www.drillspot.com/products/46...-_PET_Sleeving from drillspot w/ free 3 day shipping. it was shipped the 27th and I got it the 28th. They shipped it from CO and I live in IL, super fast shipping


----------



## Anonanimal

Glad to help. Enjoy building your cables.


----------



## FrozenGecko

I saw in the first post " if you choose star quad use the white wire for the signalsee page 4 for explanation."

 I checked page 4, but could not find a explanation. Could anyone else find it or fill me in on why the white wire for the signal? I might have forgotten this when I made mine and used the blue. I'd have to double check.


----------



## limpidglitch

Here.

 But it's all bollocks.
 The OP should be updated.


----------



## FrozenGecko

Thanks! Glad that to learn that it is all bollocks


----------



## FraGGleR

I don't think it matters much which color you use as long as you keep track of what you have done. In fact, you could randomly wire up one end of a cable and simply use a multimeter to determine how to hook up the other end.


----------



## Dean N.

I've read through this whole thread more than once and I'm still trying to figure out how to use Canare Star Quad (L-4E6S) to make RCA to RCA interconnects. How do you connect the 4 runs of wire onto each plug? Do you only use 2 of the 4 (one signal, one ground) or do you solder all 4 to the plug? Using all 4 seems like it would cause some kind of degradation in signal quality. I think the best answer is to use the two white wires, don't use the 2 blues for anything, and solder the braid to ground on only one plug (the signal or "upstream" component). Sound about right?

 Any other suggestions/recommendations/links on making RCA interconnects, specifically on the wiring/soldering, would be appreciated! I'm having a hard time finding information. I think a lot of the links are outdated/dead.

 Thanks for any help!


----------



## mattcalf

Using Canare Starquad would mean that you'd have one actual cord for the two plugs. so one wire for the signal and one for the ground to each RCA plug.


----------



## limpidglitch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dean N.* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've read through this whole thread more than once and I'm still trying to figure out how to use Canare Star Quad (L-4E6S) to make RCA to RCA interconnects. How do you connect the 4 runs of wire onto each plug? Do you only use 2 of the 4 (one signal, one ground) or do you solder all 4 to the plug? Using all 4 seems like it would cause some kind of degradation in signal quality. I think the best answer is to use the two white wires, don't use the 2 blues for anything, and solder the braid to ground on only one plug (the signal or "upstream" component). Sound about right?

 Any other suggestions/recommendations/links on making RCA interconnects, specifically on the wiring/soldering, would be appreciated! I'm having a hard time finding information. I think a lot of the links are outdated/dead.

 Thanks for any help!_

 

This picture explains about everything.






 But since the quad has four leads you have to solder two to signal and two to ground. Say both blues on the centre one, and both whites on the other, and make sure to do the same on the the plug on the other end.

 You will have to make two of these, obviously. One for left and one for right.

 Alternatively you can do what I think mattcalf is talking about, using one cable for both right and left.
 That's also very simple. Each plug has two contacts. You have two plugs on each side. That's four contacts in total. You have four leads in one cable. All you have to do is to make sure to solder each lead up to the same contact point on each side. to to to to, I'm tired.

 Edit: I used this magnificent new internet tool, called Google, and came up with this, which explains infinitely better what I was trying to get at.


----------



## Dean N.

Thanks for the responses. That magnificent new interweb google thingy was a very good link. (I managed to miss that on prior searches 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). I guess there's more than one option for the wiring.

 Looks like I'm going to go with terminating each end of the cable with one plug (Neutrik NYS373), using two wires in each cable (one signal, one ground). There may be some increase in sound quality by omitting the blue wires, and from what I've read, 1 strand of 21AWG cable is plenty for even a high-end interconnect. It'll also make construction easier by not doing the Y splits (and the cable is cheap, so why not?). 

 Any more thoughts on this being the best strategy for making an RCA interconnect?


----------



## limpidglitch

Using two wires instead of one will double conductance, and at least theoretically the higher conductance the better. Wether this is actually audible is an other issue, but at least there should be no degradation of audio by using two instead of one.
 The way I make interconnects is practically identical to the what I linked to, it is also a true and tested method used on every audio forum I've been to, essentially it's hard to get it wrong doing it like this.

 Reading the following comments on the guide I linked to, it seems like if you want active shielding you should solder the shield to ground on both ends. All my interconnects are un-shielded, and I've had no problems with them, so I'd say this part of the design is a non-issue, unless your cables will be very long and you have a lot of equipment that can cause interference.


----------



## vance182

I only have one 3.5 to 3.5 cable, which is highly inconvenient being only a few inches long to connect my Zune to my car stereo.

 I have some CAT5E cable, will that be fine for a simple task like this?


----------



## limpidglitch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vance182* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I only have one 3.5 to 3.5 cable, which is highly inconvenient being only a few inches long to connect my Zune to my car stereo.

 I have some CAT5E cable, will that be fine for a simple task like this?_

 

My main interconnects are based upon some ordinary cat5, works flawlessly.
 The only downside of using cat5, the way I see it, is the stiffness. As it is solid core, and not stranded it won't be as flexible as f.ex the Cardas posted above. 
 However, stiffness is rarely a problem when it is going to be used as an interconnect, and not connecting up headphones.


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vance182* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I only have one 3.5 to 3.5 cable, which is highly inconvenient being only a few inches long to connect my Zune to my car stereo.

 I have some CAT5E cable, will that be fine for a simple task like this?_

 

Most decent quality cat5e cable has 8 24awg wires in twisted pairs that are either stranded or solid core copper. 4 of those should work fine.


----------



## cobaltmute

Most bulk Cat5E cable will be solid core as it is meant for structured (in-building runs). If you tear apart a good flexible patch cable it will be stranded as that is meant for the repeated flexing that would be patch cable use.


----------



## vance182

Thanks for the info guys. I guess I'll use this.

 Now, should I put two of the wires in parallel for each connection or just one?

 And my cable is yellow, black Techflex should look good over it, right?


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vance182* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info guys. I guess I'll use this.

 Now, should I put two of the wires in parallel for each connection or just one?

 And my cable is yellow, black Techflex should look good over it, right?_

 

Are you leaving the cable shielded and covered and just stripping the ends? One wire for each channel at 24awg is perfectly fine. It won't really help or hinder to use more wires for each channel as far as I know, but I am not strong on the science of all this. I am just familiar with what most people do. Also at least one for ground, although I believe it is more common to have 2 ground wires, to balance with each channel. There might be geometry considerations to cancel out interference, but someone more scientifically oriented will have to chime in.

 Black on yellow should look fine. Only you can decide if it looks good.


----------



## eruditass

I need to make some TS to RCA cables. I was thinking of starting out with Cat5e because I have tons of it.

 I was thinking of making 2 separate cables, 1 for L, 1 for R, to reduce crosstalk. For one cable, should I use 1 for signal, 1 for ground? That would be hard to keep together unless I wrap something around it, and I am going super cheapo for my first cable. What about 2 for ground?

 Also, does it make a huge difference if I use a cheapo radioshack connector since it is an interconnect with low current?


----------



## FrozenGecko

Are radioshack connectors really that cheap(in price) compared to switchcraft connectors?

 As for the cable, you can use 1 for signal, 2 for ground. 2 or 1 ground, doesn't really make a difference.


----------



## eruditass

When I have a coupon, yes.

 My thoughts on the wire was that 1 for ground is 1:1 impedance for send and ground and would make more sense with respect to noise/emi/rfi rejection.


----------



## igotyofire

so with a 4 wire cable......in a TRS connector u solder 2 wires both to ground?......confused, why not just use a 3 wire cable with 1 designated ground.....preference and theory?


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *igotyofire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so with a 4 wire cable......in a TRS connector u solder 2 wires both to ground?......confused, why not just use a 3 wire cable with 1 designated ground.....preference and theory?_

 

2 to ground, ideally so you have 1:1 matching return with each signal. Many different preferences. There is a lot of proven science to the transmittance of sound, but you will find that measuring or deciding if anything has an audible difference more a matter of faith. In my mind it makes sense to match materials, lengths, and number of strands. You will also find most professionally made cables will use this method, too.


----------



## geestring

any phono plugs that are long for 1st gen iphones?


----------



## goffer

I'm looking into making some cables now that I have been practicing with cat5e cable.... though I am wondering is it ok to use expensive copper for the signal and cheaper copper, of the same gauge, for ground?


----------



## El_Doug

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *goffer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm looking into making some cables now that I have been practicing with cat5e cable.... though I am wondering is it ok to use expensive copper for the signal and cheaper copper, of the same gauge, for ground?_

 

it would work just fine - though it does beg the question, why?


----------



## goffer

To save money... if I'm using copper that's $5/foot and am making a 6' headphone cable it would make it around $70 as opposed to $120, leaving $50 for beer and other necessities.


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *goffer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm looking into making some cables now that I have been practicing with cat5e cable.... though I am wondering is it ok to use expensive copper for the signal and cheaper copper, of the same gauge, for ground?_

 

It has been recommended to me to match the signals and the returns, but many people don't and haven't heard any adverse reactions. In fact, there are quite a few who don't think the materials used will impact the sound period. Then there are those who think deep freezing a cable will make it sound better. I don't believe anything either way, but I will say that my ears and equipment aren't good enough to tell the difference. I now select materials based on aesthetics and ergonomics and am quite happy. Do you like the sound of the Cat5? Do you feel like you are missing something? Make a "nice" cable all the way and decide if it is worth the added cost for more expensive stuff.


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *goffer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To save money... if I'm using copper that's $5/foot and am making a 6' headphone cable it would make it around $70 as opposed to $120, leaving $50 for beer and other necessities._

 

Just as a heads up, there is high grade copper available at half the cost at Doublehelixcables.com. It is pure OCC stranded copper that has been cryo treated. I have made quite a few cables with it and have found it nice to work with. Even more beer money saved


----------



## goffer

Thanks Fraggler... last night I went and bought 6' of Cryo's The Wire -Copper plus a few mini plugs to build a mini-mini and rewire my LOD for the fuze... just to test the wire before going all out. I'll check out doublehelix, I'm all about more beer money.


----------



## FallenAngel

Yeah... and then you realize that there really is no such thing as "signal" and "ground" wires - it's not like "music" travels up the signal wire, through the driver and down the ground wire - it is a constant change in electric potential between two points (amplifier output) that are connected. Those two points just happen to be connected by two wires (which people say are "ground" and "signal" and stick a speaker in between).


----------



## S3am

Hello.
 I'm planning to make some IC for CarAudio. So I selected some components on Markertec, do you think they are ok?
 Neutrik NYS373 RCA





 Canare L-4E6S Star-Quad




 Techflex NMN0.25BK Nylon Multifilament 1/4 Inch





 P.s. I found some pictures of Neutrik 373 and it ssems that it has short "ground_body" without any holes...




 But I also found many positive reviews, where people says that this Neutrik is easy to solder. So I'm a bit confused now =\


----------



## momomo6789

you just solder onto the metal then pull really hard and see if it pulls off


----------



## dhaninugraha

tin the ground body, tin the wires, put the tinned wire on the tinned body, heat them together with your iron... that's how you join them


----------



## S3am

Quote:


 you just solder onto the metal then pull really hard and see if it pulls off 
 

Hmm, so the key is good_soldering? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I hope this will stay on place when it's about -30'c outside the car 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 P.s. Thanx for help. The last thing to do - get shipping price from MerkerTec, hope this will be lower then cables price


----------



## momomo6789

Hot Glue + more Hot glue + a little more to make shure its holding in place


----------



## forumid123

Thanks For Sharing


----------



## .Sup

Hey guys I need help with a cable. I'm trying to convert one side of a 1/4 TRS plug into a female XLR so I can plug my microphone in. Which wire goes to what pin? I have photos! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


















 Thanks


----------



## dennis.se

I'm thinking of making my own cables (mainly 3.5 to 3.5 and 3.5 to rca), and I want to make something like this:





 how much of a difference does shielding actually make? and does the braiding somehow shield the cable (yeah, I'm a newbie =)?


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dennis.se* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm thinking of making my own cables (mainly 3.5 to 3.5 and 3.5 to rca), and I want to make something like this:


 how much of a difference does shielding actually make? and does the braiding somehow shield the cable (yeah, I'm a newbie =)?_

 

The braid does a little bit to reject noise. Not sure how much shielding really matters. I have used shielded cable and naked braids like in the picture you quoted and I have never heard a difference. I use my stuff on my desk under my monitor, next to speakers, etc. Short answer, don't worry about it, unless you are in a really electrically noisy environment (car might be one place you would want shielding).


----------



## Seidhepriest

Twisting ensures the signal's integrity is preserved, it also protects against interference. 

 Long-distance telephone wires and Ethernet network cable are twisted too. Here's a Wikipedia article on twisted pair wiring:

Twisted pair - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## SemperParatus

Here's a silly question: What size Techflex are you guys using for mini to mini cables? 1/4"?


----------



## freakydrew

eagerly awaiting all of my supplies to come in the mail. Want to make an RCA interconnect following this (sort of):
DIY Silver Interconnects

 I am wondering what the actual function of the ground is? I think it is supposed to be neutral or carry no signal? In the above link it uses silver for both the return and the signal. does the return need to be silver to maximize the effect or would copper work just as well? what about silver-tinned copper for the return?
 thanks


----------



## momomo6789

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *freakydrew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_eagerly awaiting all of my supplies to come in the mail. Want to make an RCA interconnect following this (sort of):
DIY Silver Interconnects

 I am wondering what the actual function of the ground is? I think it is supposed to be neutral or carry no signal? In the above link it uses silver for both the return and the signal. does the return need to be silver to maximize the effect or would copper work just as well? what about silver-tinned copper for the return?
 thanks_

 

well he did make the guide him self and he does sell the stuff him self so if it was me i would push the expensive silver as much as possible get my point ?


----------



## freakydrew

lol...fair enough, I have read this recipe elsewhere with different variations, all using silver wire for both. one just braided three silver wires together and used that. I just don't want to waste the silver on the ground if it is not necessary.



 thanks


----------



## freakydrew

sorry for another post, so many questions...lol...
 another question about covering the silver wire. would a PTFE Teflon heat shrink tubing work? Apparently it the heat shrink has a high recovery temperature, I am not sure what that means, but the product I am looking at is around 625 F.


----------



## Robot Metal

Is there a cheaper/similar alternative to Eichmann Silver Bullet? (For a silver cable) Paying $150 for plugs is a bit insane, so I'm looking for the nearest step down... (~$50)


----------



## Prog Rock Man

I want to make a braided (twisted) cable. This one appears to have three wires, so how does that work? Or do I need four?


----------



## dorkvader

I'm not a real expert, but it would appear there are two copper and one silver cable in your example. From that, I concluded they are using two cables for signal and one for ground, probably because it looks nicer than a twister pair to some people.

 Were I you, I would use either a twisted pair, or four-conductor (I think if you look up "litz braid" you'll get some nifty resources) cable. Starquad is also a popular choice (from reading the cable gallery posts).

 for a nice visible braid, I would recommend four, but I've only made 6 or so cables and am by no means an expert.


----------



## apatN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Prog Rock Man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I want to make a braided (twisted) cable. This one appears to have three wires, so how does that work? Or do I need four_

 

Three is enough: one wire for left, right and ground.


----------



## Prog Rock Man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *apatN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Three is enough: one wire for left, right and ground._

 

Sorry, I don't understand. I thought ICs were signal and ground only. Which is left and right?


----------



## apatN

Ah! I am sorry for the misunderstanding. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I did not see that those were RCAs (thought they were TRS-plugs). In that case you will need two wires per cable: one for signal, one for ground.


----------



## Headphonez

I'm planning on using just the four main wires inside a Starquad L-4e6s then heat shrinking over it. But my question is: Is the copper braiding and the threads and tissue paper stuff inside the whole Starquad wire necessary?
  (I want to make a new cable to recable my headphones)
  And since the tip and the middle of the plug (Neutrik NTP3RC) are left and right, does that apply to the left and right of where the sound comes from of the headphones too?


----------



## Bureiba

Can someone help clarify the use of heatshrink and techflex?
   
  From what I can tell, heatshrink is only applied at the ends/Y split to make the wires more tight for proper fitting - or is it applied across the entire cable?
  What are the benefits of wrapping the wire in techflex/nylon? Also, are all techflex somewhat transparent (mesh)?
   
  Thanks


----------



## Good Times

Heatshrink is an insulation that you use when wires are cut and exposed, and made its way as a strain relief as you noted. It's used on a y-split for convenience. You wouldn't ordinarily use it for the entire run, as it's unnecessary, and adds to the stiffness (=bad) of the cable. It's main use for me is to protect the exit of wire from the termination or plug, so that movement doesn't cut through the wire's sheath. 
   
  Techflex is primarily cosmetic, although does add to the strength of the cable if it's in a rough environment or being handles a lot. But mainly cosmetic. Techflex is mostly transparent since when it's applied, the weave opens up a bit to reveal the colour of the underlying cable. You can get higher density Techflex but it's stiffer, and you can get nylon multifilament which is soft with no see-through (but doesn't expand like Techflex does). 
   
  One shortcoming of Techflex is that it's not laterally flexible (i.e. you can't twist it), so if you have a single RCA cable for example, it's not an issue as it can twist on the jack. But if you're making a cable with a directional plug on it (like an iPod dock plug) then don't use techflex.


----------



## Bureiba

Thanks Good Times!
   
  I am planning to get a pair of Grado SR80i and recable (along with some other mods), and came up with the following parts list. How does it look? Are the sizes good? I'm not sure whether I will go with techflex or nylon at this point (maybe I'll do a mix - techflex before the split and nylon after, since after the split I don't want to see the colors of the bare wires).

 Canare Miniature Star Quad L-4E5C (.189" diameter)
 Switchcraft 3.55mm Plug Straight
 Techflex (1/8" before/after split)
 Nylon Multifilament (3/16" before Y split, 1/8" after)
 Heatshrink (3:1, 2:1? what size?)


----------



## raresvintea

I want to choose and make and rca interconnect cable for my car audio install. IN the car are diffrent interferences and some unwanted noises.
  I see that some made cables with 3 wires braided togheter per channel, two for ground and one hot wire. The major aspect of this cable is the flexibility! That, because in the rear of the player the space is very tidy. Are those type of cable good for rejection of unwanted noises?


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## jazh23

Hi, is a good choice the Canare L-4E6S wire and canare F-12 connector to recabling the Superlux 681?


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## askjeebs

So I thought I'd give this a go, needless to say I probably won't be doing it again anytime soon. Soldering irons don't seem to like me very well. My temperature-adjustable station decided not to heat up so I had to make do with a 30W fixed temp pen - which was not very fun and somewhat painful.
   
  Used Gotham GAC-4, neutrik 3.5mm male (NYS231L) and female plugs, switchcraft RA 3.5mm plugs and Neutrik male RCA connectors. The plan was to make 2 3.5mm male to female short cables, a 3.5mm short interconnect, a short 3.5mm to 2xRCA and a long 3.5mm to 2xRCA. Probably spent 6 hours struggling with soldering irons, techflex and stripping wire with my fingers (not a good decision). The space inside the connectors for soldering wires is a lot smaller than it looks in pictures, especially with the neutrik plugs - if you solder to the inside of the solder terminals (which is almost necessary to get the shield to fit over the connector) you've only got 2 or 3mm to move your iron and the cables around in. I found that crimping the strain relief on the connectors was also quite difficult. I ended up breaking it on two connectors. I'm not sure if it was the way I was crimping it, or if the cable was too large (it shouldn't been) but it would pay to be a bit careful here. I found techflex a nightmare to work with: it frayed and ended up making the cable too large to fit into the neutrik connectors, so if you're using it with these neutrik plugs you may have to terminate the techflex outside the connector and cover it with heatshrink or something.
   
  And after all that, the long RCA cable didn't even work and at that stage I couldn't be bothered trying to work out why.
   
  Long story short - a good soldering iron and knowing what you're doing will help you to avoid going insane.


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## unhinged17

This is awesome.  Thank you.


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## Speedskater

Wow, this thread started almost a decade and 1000 posts ago!
   
  To review: An analog unbalanced interconnect has four important factors.
   
  1] Robust connectors that will have repeated good contacts.
  2] Very low end to end resistance of the shield/return conductor.
  then
  3] Good shielding.  In a world that has more and more interference, this is increasing in importance.
  finally
  4] Low capacitance, this is not about the cable but about components that are not designed to deal witc capacitive loads.


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## Kjeldsen

For anyone in Denmark:
   
  All the techflex your heart desires. F6-Quiet they say is cottonsoft and recommended for audio cables. http://www.techflex.dk/shop/flexo-f6-quiet-76c1.html. They also have heatshrink etc.


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## Jam_Master_J

I am about to build a guitar patch cable.  I've got plenty of experience with cables but had one particular question.  It uses a 1/4" TS connector (I'm using Neutrik connectors on Canare GS6 cable) and will naturally see pretty hard use compared to my hi-fi cables.  I'm debating whether to apply heatshrink or not and I see 3 options:
   
  1) Apply no heatshrink (keeps everything easy to repair if I ever need to fix something)
  2) Apply heatshrink over cable and barrel of connector(most rugged but need to do more work to repair it if ever required)
  3) Apply heatshrink on cable but inside the the barrel of the connector.  (Looks kinda ugly IMO but may be best balance of access and ruggedness)


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## razor5cl

Would making an interconnect like this be applicable for headphones? I'm going to buy an HD25 soon and would like to make a 3.5mm to Senn Proprietary connector


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## dhruvmeena96

How to make a 3.5mm monox2 to 3.5mm trs (normal) from brainwavz hm5 with canare f12 and f11.....

I need sugestion for cable and it should look good


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## Paladin79

jam_master_j said:


> I am about to build a guitar patch cable.  I've got plenty of experience with cables but had one particular question.  It uses a 1/4" TS connector (I'm using Neutrik connectors on Canare GS6 cable) and will naturally see pretty hard use compared to my hi-fi cables.  I'm debating whether to apply heatshrink or not and I see 3 options:
> 
> 1) Apply no heatshrink (keeps everything easy to repair if I ever need to fix something)
> 2) Apply heatshrink over cable and barrel of connector(most rugged but need to do more work to repair it if ever required)
> 3) Apply heatshrink on cable but inside the the barrel of the connector.  (Looks kinda ugly IMO but may be best balance of access and ruggedness)


 
 Using that cable and those connectors you should not need heat shrink tubing at all. The Neutrik connectors grip the cable well and you should never have issues. That cable and those connectors will withstand hard usage.
 That being said, what you need to watch out for are high resistance shorts. Too much heat transferred to that particular cable when soldering can be an issue. Every time I have new people working with such cable I get shorts of 20k ohms to 90k ohms roughly. If you get something like say 700k when reading resistance on a DMM that should be fine but infinite is even better. The cable will generally work but you will have lowered output if you add resistance to that cable.  If you build one and get resistance, cut off about two inches of cable and start again, you can even measure one end when soldered, tip to sleeve then the second end and determine which end has an issue. If you need more help pm me.


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