# DACT vs GOLDPOINT attenuators --->



## Bluetick

I want the most neutral sounding, best performing stepped attenuator I can find. I have narrowed it down to either a DACT CT2 or the GoldPoint MINI-V (and perhaps even the nicer TDK's). 

 Any opinions or preferences?

 Are there any other candidates you feel should be considered?







 Thanks for you help- all of it welcomed. 

 Mike.


----------



## linuxworks

relay based instead of turn-the-crank based? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 same kind of atten quality but you can remote control it.


----------



## m1abrams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *linuxworks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_relay based instead of turn-the-crank based? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 same kind of atten quality but you can remote control it._

 

Curious as to whether you hear a chatter of relays clicking when you adjust the volume? Or are the small latching relays pretty silent?

 I personally am not a fan of the click of relays but can tolerate for items that only switch once and awhile, not sure I would like that noise everytime I adjust the volume.

 Note I do like the idea of the relay based atten. But think the relay chatter might be a bit much.


----------



## linuxworks

agreed that its not silent. depends on how you mount, how you acoustically isolate the relay 'banger board' and so on. also depends HIGHLY on which relays you use and also how you sequence them. I'm actually working on code now to sequence them and try to keep them semi quiet.

 on a solid state vol control (like the PGA) I like to have slow ramp up/down fades. but on relays you cannot do that! so you have to give up the ramping and just go 'immediately' to the vol level.

 one thing that can help is to have user memories so that you can go to a few set levels and 'zoom' to them without having to 'walk' up or down by steps to get there; another software thing that could help.

 I'm also toying with the idea of doing something hybrid with relays and maybe something solid state for 'tweaks'. just a thought, nothing firm at this point 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I would never go with a 'turn the knob' thing anymore. they're not remote-able and they are HELLA expensive for what they really are. no reason why a switch with R's should cost a kings ransom 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've seen people put metal rods in their gear to 'reach' pots or attens to try to shorten the wire distance. I have to admit to laughing hard at such things; but if you really need to achieve 'short wire distances' you can move your relay bank to the back of the chassis, if that makes you feel better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 then put the GUI part up front where it just does not matter, in a sound POV.

 heck, for purists you can even have the relay box be JUST a box by itself. have it be a 'snake box' with all the wires going into and out of it, including the remote control pair that varies the volume over the digital command channel (i2c often). that way you can make the atten its own separate 'process' and insert it inline anywhere.


----------



## pabbi1

Luvdunhill has a REALLY nice solution - not sure if he is ready for disclosure or not. I heard it at the Dallas meet, and it really is the way forward.

 I currently have DACT, GoldPoint, TKD, and Acoustic Dimensions attenuators, and all have their tradeoffs, so, there is no one good answer in mechanical attenuators, and all come at a cost.


----------



## Steve Eddy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *linuxworks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would never go with a 'turn the knob' thing anymore. they're not remote-able and they are HELLA expensive for what they really are._

 

They are indeed remotable.

 John Chapman at Bent Audio has developed remote control for switched attenuators using a stepper motor.






 se


----------



## Steve Eddy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bluetick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I want the most neutral sounding, best performing stepped attenuator I can find. I have narrowed it down to either a DACT CT2 or the GoldPoint MINI-V (and perhaps even the nicer TDK's)._

 

I have a four deck DACT here for a build I'm doing for someone and I don't like the feel of it at all. It's sort of gritty and the steps are rather indistinct. The Goldpoint I have is much better in that regard with nice tactile clicks from step to step, though admittedly the Goldpoint is a two deck so I don't know if the Goldpoint four deck would feel the same as the DACT four deck.

 If you decide to go with the TKD's, get them from Michael Percy. He's still selling some he has left from before TKD's big price increase some years back. $260 for stereo units, $175 for mono units.

 se


----------



## linuxworks

how does that motor or stepper know, exactly, how to stop? does it always hit the center 'detent' ok? any drift over time? how does one calibrate or fix it?

 seems like an ok solution if you INSIST on having a motor turn a crank. not sure I agree its a good use of money (can't be cheap, that hook-up!)


----------



## cobaltmute

PGA + Arduino + Rotary encoder. At least that is my goal that I'm working on right now.


----------



## Steve Eddy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *linuxworks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how does that motor or stepper know, exactly, how to stop? does it always hit the center 'detent' ok? any drift over time? how does one calibrate or fix it?_

 

Knowing how to stop is a matter of programming. Knowing what the indexing angle is on the rotary switch, you can program to have the stepper step however many steps it takes for a given amount of rotation. 

 As for your other questions, I can't really give any definitive answers seeing as I haven't installed and used the unit yet. However I can say that there is an intermediate coupler that fits to the motor's shaft with set screws. You loosen the set screws, turn the attenuator's switch to the first position, and then tighten down the set screws. That's your calibration.

  Quote:


 seems like an ok solution if you INSIST on having a motor turn a crank. not sure I agree its a good use of money (can't be cheap, that hook-up!) 
 

Personally I prefer to use my hand to turn a crank. Remotes are for lazy people, and are a waste of a perfectly good opposable thumb. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 se


----------



## Bluetick

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Koyaan I. Sqatsi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a four deck DACT here for a build I'm doing for someone and I don't like the feel of it at all. It's sort of gritty and the steps are rather indistinct. The Goldpoint I have is much better in that regard with nice tactile clicks from step to step, though admittedly the Goldpoint is a two deck so I don't know if the Goldpoint four deck would feel the same as the DACT four deck.

 If you decide to go with the TKD's, get them from Michael Percy. He's still selling some he has left from before TKD's big price increase some years back. $260 for stereo units, $175 for mono units.

 se_

 

Thank you! 

 I think you are experiencing the special indexing GoldPoint is famous for which is sort of a ball-in-socket (for lack of the vernacular) type of stop. You are not the first person to say they have a 'nice tactile click'. 
 Nor are you the first to say the DACT feels flimsy and cheap by comparison. You have helped me make my decision....and as a bonus the GoldPoint is roughly $50 cheaper.


----------



## Bluetick

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cobaltmute* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PGA + Arduino + Rotary encoder. At least that is my goal that I'm working on right now._

 

I stumbled on to that in my quest...I think I need to do more research...perhaps for my next project. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks!


----------



## Bluetick

Thanks, LinuxWorks!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *linuxworks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_on a solid state vol control (like the PGA) I like to have slow ramp up/down fades. but on relays you cannot do that! so you have to give up the ramping and just go 'immediately' to the vol level.
_

 

I'm the kinda guy who will set the volume at a certain sweet spot and leave it there for days...Heck- maybe I just need a grayhill selector and three resistors.

  Quote:


 I would never go with a 'turn the knob' thing anymore. they're not remote-able and they are HELLA expensive for what they really are. no reason why a switch with R's should cost a kings ransom 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

They can be motorized. ALPS has been doing that for at least 15 years now. I have an old AMC pre (made in 1992) with a factory motorized ALPS pot. The motor is powered by a seperate 12V supply, and the remote volume works like a charm. However, this pot is NOT a stepped atenuator. To motorize a stepped attenuator the motor operates in "pulses" so as to power it perfectly between clicks. It is not anything more complicated or unserviceable than the solution you suggest- works quite well, actually.....I just don't need a remote. 

  Quote:


 I've seen people put metal rods in their gear to 'reach' pots or attens to try to shorten the wire distance. I have to admit to laughing hard at such things; but if you really need to achieve 'short wire distances'..... 
 

I can understand why you would laugh, but there is merit to doing such things- especially when you are trying to use a passive atten as a "preamp". Every little bit of wire saved helps maintain the gain coming from the source. It also decreases the potential EMI and/or RFI on the signal chain. A 10" extension rod costs about $3, but some good signal wire can cost more for the same length. 


  Quote:


 heck, for purists you can even have the relay box be JUST a box by itself. have it be a 'snake box' with all the wires going into and out of it, including the remote control pair that varies the volume over the digital command channel (i2c often). that way you can make the atten its own separate 'process' and insert it inline anywhere. 
 

The crank-the-knob- guys have been doing this for a long time:






 I disagree with most of what you said but I certainly do appreciate you taking the time to offer your opinion. Thank you!!!

 cheers.


----------



## Steve Eddy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bluetick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think you are experiencing the special indexing GoldPoint is famous for which is sort of a ball-in-socket (for lack of the vernacular) type of stop. You are not the first person to say they have a 'nice tactile click'. 
 Nor are you the first to say the DACT feels flimsy and cheap by comparison._

 

Both DACT and Goldpoint use the same Elma switch which uses a pair of spring loaded ball bearings that ride on teeth inside the body of the switch. The springs in the stock switches are rather stiff and give an industrial clunk-clunk-clunk-clunk feel. Elma can supply what they call a light detent spring which isn't nearly as stiff and gives a very nice tactile feel and I'm pretty sure they're the same springs that Goldpoint uses as they feel the same.

 I'm thinking that DACT is using an even lighter spring than this and/or a heavier spring in the wiper mechanism which would cause greater pressure and could also account for the gritty feel of the switch.

 Anyway, all I know is that I didn't like the feel of the DACT at all compared to the Goldpoint.

  Quote:


 You have helped me make my decision....and as a bonus the GoldPoint is roughly $50 cheaper. 
 

Glad I could help. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 se


----------



## Steve Eddy

Now, if you really want to go crazy, load one of these beauties up with your favorite resistors. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 se


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Luvdunhill has a REALLY nice solution - not sure if he is ready for disclosure or not. I heard it at the Dallas meet, and it really is the way forward._

 

It is 'common' knowledge that luvdunhill's solution is a PGA2320 (or 2310? I forget), ATTiny and rotary encoder combo. I'm using one in my Exstata, and I absolutely adore the control it offers.

 It isn't a new idea...... there have been several solutions using the same chip pop up now and then, but nothing that has really made it to the mass market DIY audience. So I really hope that this one is ultimately made available to the wider community.


----------



## pabbi1

Yeah, built one of those...







 It has some funky mechanical noises on switching, but the 41 steps are nice... for $250ish.


----------



## Steve Eddy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pabbi1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, built one of those...

 It has some funky mechanical noises on switching, but the 41 steps are nice... for $250ish._

 

That's the Acoustic Dimension switch. Not the Seiden. 

 se


----------



## linuxworks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Koyaan I. Sqatsi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Personally I prefer to use my hand to turn a crank. Remotes are for lazy people, and are a waste of a perfectly good opposable thumb. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 se_

 

doesn't work across the room unless you have gorilla arms 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I didn't think too much of remote control until I started getting into it. it has all the pluses and none of the downsides, when done right. I can't understand why anyone would NOT want it, other than complexity and cost (and both are quite low compared to the 'metal shafty things' you guys are posting here for many hundreds of dollars!

 relay atten and cpu could be built for way less than half that. way way less.

 computer driven lightspeed for even less than that.

 I think the mech shaft thingies are anachronisms. but each person has the style they are shooting for, I suppose.


----------



## XXII

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Koyaan I. Sqatsi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Both DACT and Goldpoint use the same Elma switch which uses a pair of spring loaded ball bearings that ride on teeth inside the body of the switch. The springs in the stock switches are rather stiff and give an industrial clunk-clunk-clunk-clunk feel. Elma can supply what they call a light detent spring which isn't nearly as stiff and gives a very nice tactile feel and I'm pretty sure they're the same springs that Goldpoint uses as they feel the same._

 

This is exactly the reason I prefer the DACT over the goldpoint. The clicks of my old goldpoint use to annoy my gf when she was sleeping. No problem with the DACT


----------



## Steve Eddy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *linuxworks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_doesn't work across the room unless you have gorilla arms 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Or a pair of legs. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 I think the mech shaft thingies are anachronisms. but each person has the style they are shooting for, I suppose. 
 

Yup.

 Vive la difference!

 se


----------



## Steve Eddy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XXII* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is exactly the reason I prefer the DACT over the goldpoint. The clicks of my old goldpoint use to annoy my gf when she was sleeping. No problem with the DACT 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Should have kicked her out and got yourself a girlfriend who wasn't such a light sleeper. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 se


----------



## linuxworks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Koyaan I. Sqatsi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or a pair of legs. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

it really is a lot more than just that.

 tv watching with a preamp (and yes, phones amps are great preamps, too) means you need at least 1 mute level and you often have to chase the volume a lot during a show or during a change of shows or channels.

 or switching between devices (tv and dac, for example). when I watch movies with my media streamer into the dac vs mp3 player into the dac, the output is a good 10db diff (media streamer is buggy but I can't fix that). so I need to change attens with input (or even output) changes.

 and you also want FAST volume changes. I've recently been using a motor pot for my only input atten (really 'roughing it' for now, lol) and the time it takes to get to where I need it to be is just TOO slow for me. motor pots are great for small tweaks but they don't shuttle around very fast.

 the digital ones (like the PGA) are great because they are instant, they can 'slide' (walk between the 'to' and 'from' and increment the dB values so its a smooth ramp) and they can be memorized. can't do much of that with the 'robot arm twisting a knob' kind of thing.

 the only way I like the twisty knob is with some tricky stuff; such as using a motor pot and linear resistive path as a servo config; that way you can zoom directly to a digital dB point and the pot is not at all in the way (its not in the analog path and is used only as a 'valuator' to set or display the value). so you get all there is that is positive about the rotary UI paradigm and none of its drawbacks.

 physical controls are just over-priced. you can achieve the same kind of look/feel - and better - for cheaper than the ways most people are thinking.

 I just can't see throwing $200+ toward a mechanical thingie like that, anymore. you don't HAVE to, at least; not anymore. there are other options than frankenknob


----------



## OutdoorXplorer

I would stay with manual like some says remote is meant for non-active people...


----------



## Steve Eddy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *linuxworks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_it really is a lot more than just that.

 tv watching with a preamp (and yes, phones amps are great preamps, too) means you need at least 1 mute level and you often have to chase the volume a lot during a show or during a change of shows or channels.

 or switching between devices (tv and dac, for example). when I watch movies with my media streamer into the dac vs mp3 player into the dac, the output is a good 10db diff (media streamer is buggy but I can't fix that). so I need to change attens with input (or even output) changes._

 

Ah, ok. See, I don't use my audio system for watching TV and movies. It's strictly for music.

  Quote:


 I just can't see throwing $200+ toward a mechanical thingie like that, anymore. you don't HAVE to, at least; not anymore. there are other options than frankenknob 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Wait'll you see my knobs. You'll WANT to touch, caress, and yes, even turn them (I say knobs because there will be two of them). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 se


----------



## luvdunhill

I'm sure the amps just cannot wait to be turned on after seeing your knob.. eh.. wait.


----------



## Steve Eddy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sure the amps just cannot wait to be turned on after seeing your knob.. eh.. wait._

 

*ahem* 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 se


----------



## linuxworks

I'm not at all against the knob UI paradigm. I'm going to great lengths to keep it, in fact.

 I don't like the expense of those click-stop attenuators. really over priced. I'm sure they perform well but I can't see myself paying those prices for that kind of thing.

 relays and precision R's are not too expensive and there are quite a few designs to pick from (diy and commercial). if you are really picky you can build your own and use whatever brand of R's you want. some believe that larger sized R's tend to have lower noise levels and so you may not want the smallest built-in chip style R's that you find on some rotary attens.

 the active volume controls (pga and such) won't ever be considered true high end. they have op-amps and gain stages and they don't get bypassed, not even when staying below 0db. the pga chips are very nice but they won't be in the same class as R's and wire 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 also, with relays, you can add as many as you want (usually stopping at 8bits). that's 256 steps. a lot of steps! find me a stepped atten with a knob that does 256 steps. and yes, you DO want more than most stepped attens give you. for real world use, you do. 7 bit is enough for me, but some want 8 and so 8 is do-able, too


----------



## Juaquin

I'm gonna throw this out here if anyone's considering the PGA route - you don't need control from a microcontroller. The datasheet outlines how to use a couple pushbuttons to do it. Of course, this won't let you use presets, fading, and all those other fancy features, but if you want simple up/down control it's hard to beat the simplicity.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *linuxworks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_they have op-amps and gain stages and they don't get bypassed_

 

actually, there are some where this isn't the case, you just have to hunt around.


----------



## linuxworks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Juaquin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm gonna throw this out here if anyone's considering the PGA route - you don't need control from a microcontroller. The datasheet outlines how to use a couple pushbuttons to do it. Of course, this won't let you use presets, fading, and all those other fancy features, but if you want simple up/down control it's hard to beat the simplicity._

 

which pga's support hardware mode? I thought they needed cpu data to get them to work.

 there's an older ds1802 that used up/down click buttons (rotary encoder that is pulsed) and also supports software mode.

 pga2311 (which is the base config that I've used) has only an SPI style interface. or am I missing something?


----------



## linuxworks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luvdunhill* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_actually, there are some where this isn't the case, you just have to hunt around._

 

you mean the ones from ebay have their gains fixed?










 or, you wanna just TELL us, maybe?


----------



## Juaquin

I apologize, it wasn't a PGA - it was a digital potentiometer. It's been awhile so I'm getting the datasheets mixed up in my head. That would explain why you can't "set" the volume, only increase and decrease. I'll find the exact model of digital pot if anyone wants to know, but I think they should all behave roughly the same.


----------



## cobaltmute

nm. must read posts above before posting.


----------



## Magsy

Just get the Goldpoint, at the end of the day it is simple and mechanical, it cannot really fail.

 I have a relay based job and not only does the sound of several relays clicking get annoying, there are also slight pops through the speakers. This is of course dependant on kit/source/general build and may not effect everyone but it is something to be aware of.

 I have the balanced Goldpoint and it feels superb, it is quite tight in use and with a big knob fitted it results in a very satisfying control. Each step goes home with a well defined clunk and there is no noise between steps, it is properly silent.


----------



## linuxworks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Juaquin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I apologize, it wasn't a PGA - it was a digital potentiometer. It's been awhile so I'm getting the datasheets mixed up in my head. That would explain why you can't "set" the volume, only increase and decrease. I'll find the exact model of digital pot if anyone wants to know, but I think they should all behave roughly the same._

 

again, the ds1802 comes to mind. and it has a harsh limit of about 2.5v max input before it clips. that makes it a PITA to use (have to atten before using it for many sources).

 here's one that I built up using pushbuttons:






 quite a long time ago, too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and the circuit idea:

Pedja Rogic Audio Pages - DS1802 Silicon Potentiometer


----------



## n_maher

My 2¢ is that if I'm going to use a stepper I use DACT because I can get them from Headamp for ~15% cheaper than Goldpoint and I like the super compact form factor.


----------



## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *linuxworks* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you mean the ones from ebay have their gains fixed?









 or, you wanna just TELL us, maybe?_

 

that takes all the fun out of it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://www.wolfsonmicro.com/uploads/.../en/WM8816.pdf


----------



## AffeX

I found a link to these on another thread:
High Quality Audio & Industrial Attenuators

 Anyone tried them or having any experience with them, cause they do look really nice?!?


----------



## Beefy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AffeX* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found a link to these on another thread:
High Quality Audio & Industrial Attenuators

 Anyone tried them or having any experience with them, cause they do look really nice?!?_

 

Vaporware, for the most part. A very small handful have made it out into the wild, but it is a very risky purchase.


----------



## m1abrams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AffeX* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found a link to these on another thread:
High Quality Audio & Industrial Attenuators

 Anyone tried them or having any experience with them, cause they do look really nice?!?_

 

I am not sure I would want to pay the price for such pretty components that would be hidden inside a case. I guess that would require me to make an acrylic case.


----------



## AffeX

Hmm...yeah, I found this thread:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/how...uators-440942/


----------



## Comfortable

Dact and Goldpoint both are very transparent with no sound of their own, except goldpoints claims to have best sounding 24 steps attenuators(intentially comparing to Dact?) because they are... transparent. Seems odd.
   
http://www.dact.com/html/about_dact.html  -   fi 
  second last paragraph.
   
http://www.goldpt.com/compare.html 
  middle of page.
   
   
  Headamp.com and ebay(real) sells stereo Dact attenuators cheaper than Goldpoint, price and feel is no issue to me, I want the best sounding.
   
   
http://www.goldpt.com/attenuator%20types.html 
  On top of page, they state their series attenuators are better than ladder or shunt because of spectacular resistors.
   
   
  Can someone unbiased shed light on this subject? Is Goldpoint truly better? How minor or significant will the sound quality improvements(excluding channel matching) be from potentiometer to stepped attenuator?


----------



## Comfortable

I guess nobody likes to dig old threads


----------



## johnwmclean

Check out Khozmo attenuators, lots of resistor options Allen Bradley, PRP, Vishay PTF, Takmans REY, Vishay "nude" Z-foil and Caddock.
  If you want to pay premium and believe in the virtues of exotic parts I would choose these over both Dact and Goldpoint.


----------



## pabbi1

I have both Goldpoint, Dact, and others. Entire threads in DIY are dedicated to attenuators, discussed at length.
   
  Define 'unbiased'? Doubt I could participate.
   
  There are no simple 'which one better' answers - it depends.


----------



## Comfortable

If you really have that much experience, i guess you could participate 
   
  To me, sound quality is above feel, percision, looks, size, etc.


----------



## pabbi1

Thanks for letting me play. Here was our original attenuator thread:
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/387625/attenuator-talk
   
  If you want the very best, there are 3 answers:
   
ALPS RK50 (not yet)
TKD 2P65S (have had 1)
Acoustic Dimensions (Currently have 2)
   
  Not exhaustive, but a good slice.


----------



## Comfortable

Thank you for replying, I've heard great things about attenuators listed and amazed you owned so many, but i'm interested in a Dact vs Goldpoint because it's oranges and oranges(or tangerines and oranges). As I know, modesty is valued in Denmark, if Dact makes the best 24 positioned, they wouldn't brag or stop Goldpoint from bragging.


----------



## pabbi1

Justin at Headamp had a great deal on a balanced DACT, and that is the only reason I bought a couple, though only used one. From what I have actually, literally  heard, there is basically no sonic difference in the DACT and Goldpoint. Neither is a bad choice, though I did find the DACT harder to solder than the Goldpoint.
   
  This is the one time I'd say go for whichever is cheaper, especially if the difference is significant.
   
  I finally went to the Acoustic Dimensions because it is a 42 step, where the 23 step units left me lacking - always a half step off what I wanted, and with someone else's attenuation curve - these have my own curve.


----------



## Comfortable

Perhaps Goldpoint is more transparent?


----------



## pabbi1

Not in my experience. Doubt you could measure or hear any difference.


----------



## googleborg

what about light dependant resistors?


----------

