# Beginning of some DIY speakers ***DONE!***



## cyberspyder

For my wood shop summative, I've decided to make some DIY bookshelf speakers. Normally, MDF would be use, but to cut that during class time would require having respirators and goggles for all 24 guys. So no MDF. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 BUT I have scrounged up some 3/4" Baltic Birch/Russian Plywood as a substitute, which will get here on Monday. I plan to duplicate a set of Zaph's Bargain Mini's, although with a few tweaks of my own. 

 1) Recess the baffle into the 4 sides
 2) Do a 3/4" roundover on the front of the sides
 3) Have a recessed back

 Preliminary side sketch:





 Front drawing (from Zaph's page):






 Baffle detail (also from Zaph's page):






 Dimensions are 9 1/4" deep, 10" tall, and 6 1/4" wide

 Crossover Components:
 -2x Bennic wirewound 4ohm resistors
 -2x Bennic wirewound 5ohm resistors
 -2x 10uF Solen/SCR/Bennic/Clarity Caps Poly capacitors
 -2x 2.7uF Solen/SCR/Bennic/Clarity Caps Poly capacitors
 -2x 3.3uF Solen/SCR/Bennic/Clarity Caps Poly capacitors
 -2x 1.5mH Solen/other brand 18-20ga inductors
 -2x 0.25mH (or close to) Solen/other brand 18-20ga inductors
 -2x 0.1mH Solen/other brand 18-20ga inductors
 -Speaker wire as ICs between the Xover & woofers/tweeters/binding posts
 -63/37 0.20-0.32" dia. solder

 Vendors: Solen, Madisound, PartsExpress, any other reliable DIY place

 Cabinet Parts:
 -5' x 5' 3/4" Baltic Birch/Russian Plywood (this is the size it comes in, you only need half of that for a pair, with lots to spare)
 -1" dia. x 4" Port tube (I couldn't find any 1" dia. PVC tubing at Home Depot or Rona, so I had to buy special port tubes)
 -2x MCM 4'' Shielded Aluminum Cone Woofer (Part #: 55-1853)
 ***Remember to get the source code on the flyer (here), as it'll get you a discount (only if the woofer is on sale)***
 -2x Aurasound NT1-204-8D 3/4" Titanium Dome Tweeter
 ***DO NOT TOUCH THE DOME***
It is out of stock with a lead time of at least 4 weeks, a substitute (same size & mounting method), BUT IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED, is below
 -2x Dayton ND20FB-4 Rear-Mount 3/4" Neodymium Dome Tweeter
 -1/2" Sonic Barrier Dampening
 -1 1/4" Sonic Barrier Dampening
*OR*
 -1/2" Chopped foam carpet padding doubled (or tripled) up
 ***To judge whether chopped foam is good or not, hold it up to the light. There shouldn't be many pinpricks of light shining through. This type of material is pretty much the only cost-effective damping material for speakers. It's really not that bad.***
 -5/16" OR 1/4", 1 1/2" long socket cap screws (black)
 -5/16" OR 1/4" Tee nuts
 -4x Binding posts
 -Various sizes of heatshrink

*LOG*

 March 10, 2008
 -Ordered parts

 March 15, 2008
 -Some parts arrived :rock::











 March 17, 2008
 -My plywood arrived, except it was the wrong thickness...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 March 18, 2008
 -Some crappy pics of my workspace:











 March 19, 2008
 -PE order arrived, along with my wood!





 Hmmm, whats in the PE box?...





 Some books and...





 MY TWEETERS...





 Close-up of the protective cap & tweeter





 Along with my 18mm (sigh...they don't make it exactly 3/4") Baltic Birch





 Dramatic angle shot showing all 13 plies






 March 26, 2008
 -My Mini-RCA IC parts arrived (Canare Star-Quad, Switchcraft connectors)
















 March 27, 2008
 -IC done (Canare StarQuad, Switchcraft connectors), Mini-RCA:





















 March 28, 2008
 -My woofers arrived and I began cutting the wood to width

 March 29, 2008
 -The last of my parts arrived, some perfect lay inductors and wirewound resistors from Solen
 -Soldered all the wires to the woofer and tweeter, all preliminary work done, have to wait until enclosure is done

 Brendan


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## infinitesymphony

I'm not sure if that picture is representative of your final speaker, but if you recess the driver too far into the enclosure, it may cause some undesirable reflections off of the baffle. Just a thought, anyway.


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## error401

Were you able to find the Aura NT1?


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## cyberspyder

Nope, hence using the ND20 as a temporary sub-in....will see if I can get it in a month. If not, then I'll have to stick with it.

 @ infinitesymphony, what do you mean recessed? I think I got you confused...instead of the baffle being bolted over the sides, it's now recessed into the cabinet, while preserving the same volume.


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## infinitesymphony

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@ infinitesymphony, what do you mean recessed? I think I got you confused...instead of the baffle being bolted over the sides, it's now recessed into the cabinet, while preserving the same volume._

 

Ah, gotcha.


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## cyberspyder

PE order arrived, along with my wood!





 Hmmm, whats in the PE box?...





 Some books and...





 MY TWEETERS...





 Close-up of the protective cap & tweeter





 Along with my 18mm (sigh...they don't make it exactly 3/4") Baltic Birch





 Dramatic angle shot showing all 13 plies






 Brendan :rock:


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## ezkcdude

I wish I had your workspace! I built two pairs of speakers about 10 years ago, when I did have access to some equipment. One of the pair (shown below) has 1/4" baltic birch ply veneer on top of 3/4" MDF. They've been sitting in my parent's house for the last 10 years! (Every so often I have the desire to ship them out to my place, but they are like bricks.) Anyway, good luck with the project - make sure to spend time putting on a really good finish. If I recall, I used a combination of tung oil and polyurethane with hours and hours of hand sanding. Also, my advice to you is to make sure the edges match up nicely. You can see on my the edges are not quite flush. The finish is really nice, though, so it kind of makes up for it.

 Focal Tioxid tweeter
 Audax 8" Aerogel woofer (I believe these are not in production anymore, sadly)


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## Nisbeth

You do realize that with access to that kind of equipment you owe it to the rest of us to build something more advanced, right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 /U.


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## Nebby

Yes, that workspace isn't crappy at all! Access to heavy duty equipment = woot!


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## cyberspyder

Maybe next time, as this is my first speaker build, so I don't really want a hard design.


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## Eagleboy

Yeah man, that work space is beautiful. Those old Delta table saws are some seriously accurate machines. And those Delta Jointers last forever. Still have my Delta jointer, but I've since moved to a Saw Stop table saw. It's a lot nicer, but there's just no character to it. Which planer is that, for my curiosity?

 So, good luck, and keep building and showing us the progress! I look forward to your speakers.


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## cyberspyder

A good old Wadkins Bursgreen.


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## cyberspyder

My Mini-RCA IC parts arrived (Canare Star-Quad, Switchcraft connectors)
















 Brendan


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## cyberspyder

IC done (Canare StarQuad, Switchcraft connectors), Mini-RCA:





















 Comments please!

 Brendan


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## infinitesymphony

Is the thicker part just a tube for two runs of mini starquad? I've always wondered how people make such nice-looking Y-cables.


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## cyberspyder

Yep, and also as a strain relief for the split.


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## cyberspyder

March 28, 2008
 -My woofers arrived and I began cutting the wood to width:

















 Brendan


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## Budgie

This is looking like a real sweet project! Great pictures so far. The only down side is I won't be able to hear them when done.


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## cyberspyder

I don't like soldering speaker and tweeter connectors....STUPID ******* SMALL HOLES!?!?!#@!!#


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## cyberspyder

The last of my parts arrived, some perfect lay inductors and wirewound resistors from Solen, and I did all the soldering to the speakers, which will make it easier in the long run when it comes time to assemble it.





 OOOH A BOX! What's inside it????





 Parts





 More parts...





 More parts....










 Speaker and tweeter tabs are a b!tch to solder and thread stranded wire through...I HATE THEM ALL.

 Some pics of my home workshop (ie, the dining room table and kitchen counter):











 Brendan


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## Nebby

Isn't it kinda early to go soldering the speaker wire to the terminals? I normally stick with the quick connects until the very end.

 Keep up the good work, I'm about to embark on a similar journey building zaph's sr-71's, although I bought the kit from madisound because I have no experience with putting together a crossover.


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## error401

Good use of those old textbooks


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## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *error401* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good use of those old textbooks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That made me go back and look at the pics. I hope that soldering iron isn't own


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## cyberspyder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That made me go back and look at the pics. I hope that soldering iron isn't own
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

This the last project it's seeing. Note to thyself, never go to Canadian Tire evern when it's only $3. Oh, I might add a side project to this, a headphone stand. Similar to S2 Audio's Sundance stands, but tweaked just a bit. The base is going to consist of two strips of Baltic Birch glued together with a mitre. Another two strips are going to be laminated with opposing 45 degree cuts with a tenon on one end that will slide into a mortise in the base. That's the neck. Finally, taking cues from S2, two strips are going to be glued perpendicularly, one on each side of the neck to for the headband rest. These are going to be roundovered on top. Sketches coming right up....


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## cyberspyder

OK, next update. First up, some better pictures of my workshop, and then some pics of the completed side and tip panels. Will get a new soldering iron tomorrow, wish me luck 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	























 Eagleboy, this is for you...






 Brendan


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## MusicallySilent

Those are coming along nicely, I really want to build some DIY speakers, I wonder if my school would let me use all of their tools (table saw, bandsaw, clamps etc.) if i drew up all of the schematics and every board i needed cut and bought all the parts and just needed tools.

 I did finish woodshop recently so it may be a possibility since he has classes in their next few days so there may be the potential for me to go in during extra work time

 Either way very nice work, I would be kind of scared to use that tablesaw because of how high you have the blade :O
 Then again our schools is covered with a guard and has the sawstop technology

 Very nice work so far, you have sort of sparked an initiative for me to think about doing it


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## Nebby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MusicallySilent* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Either way very nice work, I would be kind of scared to use that tablesaw because of how high you have the blade :O_

 

Same here, the height of the blade made me raise an eyebrow


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## cyberspyder

No, I was checking the angle on the blade. I wanted to do my mitres, except I didn't have enough time...


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## MASantos

I dont get the April Fool...


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## MusicallySilent

Ahh yes I see, now I am a bit less scared  , but then again I am used to school table saws where if you touch the blade it will stop only giving your finger a little nick and a few stiches, and we had a huge guard on top too .

 MASantos I dont think there is an "April Fools" he is only stating that there was a large update on April Fools, that way people can keep track of previous updates and if it is worth looking at.

 Sorry if I missed it on your first page but what are you planning on finishing them with, I was half thinking of building some speakers and putting some burl veneer on them if i can find it cheap.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
_MDF would be use, but to cut that during class time would require having respirators and goggles for all 24 guys. So no MDF._

 

Interesting you guys dont wear goggles either? , I guess it may be because I live in america where you need the best protection against suing  we cut mdf a few times in our class for our cabinet, we used it as the base for our cabinet and used some particle board in the drawer and back, then again we have a ventilation system on every tool in our woodshop to pull the dust into a huge collector.


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## Nebby

That sawstop tech is really cool. I wish my wood shop had that for that extra piece of mind


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## cyberspyder

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MusicallySilent* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ahh yes I see, now I am a bit less scared  , but then again I am used to school table saws where if you touch the blade it will stop only giving your finger a little nick and a few stiches, and we had a huge guard on top too .

 MASantos I dont think there is an "April Fools" he is only stating that there was a large update on April Fools, that way people can keep track of previous updates and if it is worth looking at.

 Sorry if I missed it on your first page but what are you planning on finishing them with, I was half thinking of building some speakers and putting some burl veneer on them if i can find it cheap.



 Interesting you guys dont wear goggles either? , I guess it may be because I live in america where you need the best protection against suing  we cut mdf a few times in our class for our cabinet, we used it as the base for our cabinet and used some particle board in the drawer and back, then again we have a ventilation system on every tool in our woodshop to pull the dust into a huge collector._

 

I meant the ones like the chemistry goggles where your eyes are totally sealed from outside elements. We have safety glasses regularly. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . Regarding the MDF, it really isn't my decision, as I can't convince the school board otherwise. A workaround would be to cut everything afterchool, but I don't really like to stay afterschool. BTW, I'll be using many many coats of clear varathane/polyurethane/varnish to finish it. Didn't feel like using veneer, as I'm liking the birch grain more and more.

 Oh, and since you guys love my pics...here's a couple more for a semi-update:

 I finish cutting all the cabinet pieces today, all that's left to do is to mitre them and give them a roundover. Also in the process of redoing my Xover layout. Chance are I'll finish mid to late April (hopefully).






 Brendan


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## MusicallySilent

Ahh, we only ever wore standard safety glasses not goggles. However we had the huge dustcollecter as I mentioned earlier so we didnt have to worry about dust.

 I may have to talk to my woodshop teacher when i go to pick up my cabinet after spring break about using the tools for another thing, if they have woodworking club or something.


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## cyberspyder

April 7, 2008
 -Update again...Mitres completed, Xover about to get soldered together.





















 Brendan


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## Dougboy

What school do you go to?


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## cyberspyder

Markham District HS.


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## Dougboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Markham District HS._

 

Cool, what grade? Ive been there on a few ocasions but ive never been in the shop. Its very nice of your tech teacher or whoever that allows you to use the equipment. 

 BTW, i just graduated from markville last year


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## cyberspyder

11, and my wood shop teacher rocks. I am doing quite well that course, so he basically lets me do anything I want. I hear that some schools have CNC machines. Is Markville one of them?


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## cyberspyder

Sorry for the crap pictures...every single on of them were taken by my cell phone. Soldered maybe half of the Xover together...will get some Masonite to mount the components to tomorrow.






 Brendan


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## MusicallySilent

Very nice work so far, every time I look here i want to build a set of speakers more and more 

 I think we have a CNC router at our school but they mostly just use it to cut handles for cabinets in advanced woodcrafting with one layout, though you probably could cut other stuff, we also have a laser engraver/cutter which i imagine could cut wood too, i think it is good for up to 3/8inch


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## Nebby

CNC routers are really handy for wood working, and laser engraver = all sorts of usefulness


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## cyberspyder

April 9, 2008
 -Xover boards cut out from Masonite, going to be friction-fitted in the cabinet






 Brendan


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## cyberspyder

No, your eyes are fine, this is a same-day update...One Xover done...several sticks of hot glue and a couple zip ties later. Will start on second one tonight.





















 Brendan


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## Operandi

Nice work on the crossovers, very clean looking.

 You should post your build on the HTGuide Forums. Lots of awesome projects going on there designed by some very smart people.


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## cyberspyder

I just did, thanks Operandi

 UPDATE!!!!

 April 10, 2008
 -Finally finished both Xovers, they are guaranteed no to fall off...REMINDER TO PEOPLE WHO WANT TO BUILD XOVERS, DO *NOT* DO WHAT I DID AND ROUTE THE WIRES ABOVE EVERYTHING...IT WAS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO SOLDER AND GLUE TOGETHER. MOUNTING IT USING THE TYPICAL PCB MOUNTING METHOD (IE. DRILLING HOLES LIKE A PERFBOARD) IS *MUCH, MUCH EASIER*. Some pics, along with my naked speakers & tweeters.





















 Brendan


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## MusicallySilent

I imagine your speakers are lacking a bit in Bass at the moment because they arent in an enclosure so nothing for the air to bounce off of 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





, I am really loving your day by day updates, if i consider building i might have to consult you about crossovers.

 Very nice so far.


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## cyberspyder

I can feel and see the bass moving the woofer, except I ain't hearing it...that's crucial! LAWL...hopefully I can knock out a finished enclosure soon...


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## Nebby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can feel and see the bass moving the woofer, except I ain't hearing it...that's crucial! LAWL...hopefully I can knock out a finished enclosure soon..._

 

That's typical when you don't have anything backing the speakers up. I did the same with my setup to hear how it sounded; putting the speaker in a cardboard box with an opening that's about the size of the flange will help some, but really you won't know until your enclosure is finished


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## Budgie

That amp is really sweet looking. Were did it come from?

 (note- I would not let my player get close to the speaker magnets, even if they are shielded. Could be risky.)


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## cyberspyder

Hehe, works fine still, so I guess I got lucky. As for the amp, I found it in my basement, no joke. Pretty decent and compact.

 Another update! (God, don't you just love them?)
 April 11, 2008
 -One enclosure done, and mocked-up with baffle & Xover as reference; the other one will be completed on Tuesday, as I don't have class until then. Oh, and a small change in plans...originally I was aiming for varnish, but after trying it out on a scrap piece, I can safely say that it looks like crap. So, no varnish, but staining is the next option. Going to pick up some of this Golden Oak stuff next time I go to Home Depot, as well as my carpet padding.































 I'd say it turned out pretty nice (for a 16 year old), all the mitres came out perfectly, everything is square...all that's left is to route the roundover/chamfers and drill out the holes.

 Brendan


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## Budgie

Wow, nice joints! Very tight. Are you going to allow the laminations to show on the corners? (I think that would look great!)

 (found the amp in your basement?? how mysterious!)


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## cyberspyder

Definitely, that's why I don't want to veneer it.

 Brendan


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## error401

Well, regarding the DAP near the magnet - remember that the drive heads are only a couple micrometers away from the spinning disk. I have heard that for a bit to be flipped, the applied field strength must be quite high - in the several gauss range, and it's only the close range of the head that makes it possible. Anecdotal, but I've never had any problems with hard drives used near magnets. Obviously it's still smart to keep them apart, but I wouldn't be too worried about it.

 Beautiful looking speakers. I'm impressed, and they're really making me want to build some of my own with virtually nothing but hand tools.


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## cyberspyder

Sansas were only flash-based...so no problems.


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## fran

Those mitres are damn good. Nice build and congrats - I can forsee good marks in your near future!

 Fran


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## TSi

woo... someone living close to where I do.
 amazing built, cant wait to see the final final product!

 I live in Scarborough, used to go to ACCI... we have like 2-3 CNC machines.
 Maybe when you have time, u can build me a pair!!! =D=D=D

 how much is the total right now for you? without the wood price


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## cyberspyder

about 130ish...costed me more than 200 due to the ffing shipping costs...


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## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_about 130ish...costed me more than 200 due to the ffing shipping costs..._

 

damn, i would wanna check them out!
 maybe when we have like a toronto headfi meet, u can bring them in =D


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## cyberspyder

Sure, definitely...but be aware, I'm probably the youngest guy there...(only 16...)


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## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure, definitely...but be aware, I'm probably the youngest guy there...(only 16...)_

 

There is no age discrimination in appreciation for music =P


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## cyberspyder

I went to Home Depot today for some stain and carpet padding. Outcome? A can of Golden Oak, and no carpet padding, because 'they couldn't cut section of a roll for me and there weren't any scraps'. Yea, bullcrap. Anyhow, will try the carpet store beside my mom's workplace...







 Brendan


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## infinitesymphony

I have a pair of used 1x12" guitar cabinets that were covered with grey carpet, for durability purposes, I guess. For a second there, I imagined you covering the outside of your beautiful work with cheap flooring material... and it wasn't pretty.


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## Nebby

Hey, it's very.....contemporary?


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## cyberspyder

April 15, 2008
 -OHHHH I'M PISSED. The forstner bit I'm using (1 3/8") is a millimeter TOO SMALL FOR MY dumb TWEETERS. Whoever made the tweeter must like to torture people. The hole is fine for my port, but it looks like I'll have to sand/file off the excess by hand or a drum sander...(*!@&(^!$#(^!#(^$(




















 ARRRG!!!!!! GET IN THE HOLE YOU STUPID POS!!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




















 That is all...
 Brendan


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## MusicallySilent

I would drum/spindle sand it. Personally a file will probably end up like crap, and distorted and stuff, just do a few revolutions, go back check it, do a few more until it fits. That really sucks, I imagine a few revolutions on a spindle sander should make it big enough.

 What poor deeds did you do today, it seems like you have bad karma if it is that close.


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## cyberspyder

hehe, will drum sand it first, then hand sand it to get a better finish, as we only have coarse paper. Bought some pre-stain today and will test it.






 Brendan


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## IceClass

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 Brendan_

 

I am so spectacularly inept at any kind of woodworking that I couldn't be depended on to split my thumb with a hammer properly but I do so love my Lee-Valley.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They sell so much neat stuff and all of it makes me feel so, capable, skilled, in control and, well, manly.








 I had to give up the habit when my wife kept laughing at me when I'd come home with some fancy Japanese hand saw or a new pocket bubble level fabricated by autistic gnomes in Austria; both of which would join an unused toolbox worth of similar follies and impulse purchases in the basement.


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## MusicallySilent

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hehe, will drum sand it first, then hand sand it to get a better finish, as we only have coarse paper. Bought some pre-stain today and will test it.
 Brendan_

 

Yea just in my opinion files never seem to end up good when you make holes bigger


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## labmat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bought some pre-stain today and will test it._

 

I wonder if that stain you purchased is Toxic and or Highly Flammable... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can't wait to se them finished!


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## cyberspyder

OK, so I tried the tung oil today, and I must say that it's a better finish overall..I would go and get the other finishes if it guarantees a good result, but the polymerized tung oil is provided by my class (covered by our course fee), so therefore free. Will return the stains today, here are some pics:





 (top: stain, middle: plain wood, bottom: tung oil)











 Brendan


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## chris downing

I think the tung oil does look the best. good choice.


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## cyberspyder

April 21, 2008
 -Did all my dado work, and cabinets are starting to look like cabinets. Just missing the routing & holes, then I'm GTG for finishing.





 My coworker/friend/fellow student in the background
















 Brendan


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## OblivionLord

nice display man im impressed


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## cyberspyder

This is really a tiny update, as I've just finished putting the second coat of tung oil on my sample piece, and boy is it smooth! I'm hoping after several more coats the piece will reach a semi-gloss finish, much better than polyurethane in my opinion. This coat was put on using 320 wet/dry paper and finished up with a rubbing using old t-shirts.










 Oooh reflective.....

 Brendan


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## cyberspyder

Yes, but I'm pissed/sad/angry currently. I was a bit careless on the router today when routing my pieces, and whaddaya know...disaster. I'm pissed at myself because I shoulda routed everything BEFORE I cut them up into little pieces, and now that decision has come to haunt me. Long story short, the piece dove headfirst into the bit TWICE, and I now have some divots that'll give my speakers some character....Bahumba. I don't have anymore wood so that's that. 

 Also, as you can probably see/guess, I routed all the pieces today. Oh, and I redid the routing/finishing on another scrap piece, and the results were nothing short of spectacular.































 Brendan


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## ezkcdude

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ezkcdude* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Anyway, good luck with the project - make sure to spend time putting on a really good finish. *If I recall, I used a combination of tung oil and polyurethane* with hours and hours of hand sanding. Also, my advice to you is to make sure the edges match up nicely. You can see on my the edges are not quite flush._

 

I told you so on page 1! You'll need some polyurethane to go on top of that for protection.


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## cyberspyder

Meh, I forgot, soz!


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## wnmnkh

Well, they are still fine IMO....


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## dgbiker1

Easy solution- bondo! It won't look great if you want a natural finish, but you could do a glossy piano black finish?


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## cyberspyder

I ain't bondoing that.....


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## MASantos

Don't worry about that little mistake. It's your first project and it is quite normal to make such mistakes. When I started woodworking I would have to scrap complete projects for stupid mistakes. Imagine having to apply leather to a jewelry box 3 times because of forgetting minor details... 

 ps: this won't be your last project, woodworking it's very addicting!


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## cyberspyder

It is indeed...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm already thinking of my Gr.12 project...


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## adamus

big horns


 do it


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## cyberspyder

April 29, 2008
 -Sanded the routed edges today, along with the external surfaces. Rubbed another coat of oil onto my test piece.
















 Brendan


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## MusicallySilent

Its quite impressive how nice a simple coat of tung oil looks on some birch plywood.

 Curosity, how much did the x-over layout cost you per channel?


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## cyberspyder

Just about $50 per Xover.


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## MusicallySilent

I was mostly curious because I looked up your inductors brand and was shocked the cheapest one was about 10 bucks.


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## cyberspyder

I ordered the 18ga varieties, which are amongst the cheaper versions of their inductor lines.


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## Lock

just read all 9 pages. Very impressed mate, big props!!! 

 One question, why did you do the routing before you assembled the speaker? I would have though you would do that after assembly so you get a perfectly smooth transition over the joints... that being said, your precision on the mitre and tounge and groove looked so good it prob wouldn't make a difference.

 Just a thought, but you may be able to remover you mistake by using a different router bit. It would give you a different profile and remove more material but I guess it is an option. could be worth looking at after assembly, but before final finishing...

 Fantastic project mate, look forward to seeing it finished!!!!


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## cyberspyder

I guess there's no specific order in when I should do the routing.


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## cyberspyder

Quite a while since I've updated this...I had alot of school summatives to do, so this has been put on the back burner...but FEAR NOT! I will have it done before the end of the school year. Only have to glue these suckers together now:







 Brendan


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## patton713MW

Nice work man! Can't wait till its all wrapped up.


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## cyberspyder

Glued together, and everything sanded smooth, true and square. Ready for tung oil application.





















 Brendan


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## tpc41

i cant wait to see the final product, these speakers are looking great


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## cyberspyder

June 9
 -First coat of tung oil put on (seems kinda blotchy, but that disappears when sunlight shines on them), binding posts and port tube secured in enclosure, pics coming in a sec when I complete the front baffle tonight.

 Brendan


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## cyberspyder

June 11
 -Drilled my tweeter holes, drum sanded them, did some manual sanding after. It turns out 120 grit sandpaper with a tiny jar of Tamiya model paint fills up the tweeter hole EXACTLY. A bit of sanding, and I was left with some perfect holes. One thing I don't like about the Dayton tweeters is that the body is slightly flared, so it makes it harder to get the actual diameter. Also, tweeter recesses on the back completed an holes for drivers drilled. Second coat of oil put on, but no pics of that.































 Brendan


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## dBel84

You have gone to all this effort, why leave a sharp edge to cause poor wave form at the edge of the tweater - I would recommend that you route the edge with something like a 1/2 inch curve. Looking very good overall though..dB


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## cyberspyder

I haven't sanded the baffle yet...it'll level off with the tweeter and the gap will be filled.


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## Lingwendil

Very nice so far! Can't wait to see them finished.


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## cyberspyder

June 13, 2008
 -Finally :B Still have to glue the cleats in, you can probably see the baffles are not fixed yet. First impressions: Alot of bass, hmmm, how to fix this? Will dampening improve this, as I didn't put any yet...and will sealing in the baffle decrease the muddiness?











 The finish looks spectacular in sunlight, but looks like crap under regular indoor lights. The tung oil adds alot of depth to the wood. 

 Brendan


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## ezkcdude

You definitely need to stuff them. As for plugging the port - try it. It's easy enough, right? Have you done the "knuckle rap" test? That's the most important thing for me. It should sound like knocking on a tree trunk - not a door!


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## luvdunhill

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ezkcdude* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You definitely need to stuff them. As for plugging the port - try it. It's easy enough, right? Have you done the "knuckle rap" test? That's the most important thing for me. It should sound like knocking on a tree trunk - not a door!_

 

yes, you need to stuff or line the inside walls.

 Do you have a way to generate an impedance plot? If so, that will tell you a lot about cabinet resonances and help with port tuning.


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## cyberspyder

It sounds so much better with it sealed and caulk, along with the correct length port tube...audio bliss until I get my hands on a better project


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## cyberspyder

I just realized I didn't finish my log...stupid me. The following pictures are a couple months old....sorta like a look back in time LOL. Finished assembling the dampening that will go in the speakers. Zaph's plans called for some Sonic Barrier...but ever the cheap-ass, I decided to use a mixture of carpet padding with two different densities, similar to the 3-layer approach. For the back and the top I layered two pieces of chopped foam padding with some denser open-celled padding to create a 1 1/4" pad. The sides and bottom were covered in a pad consisting of two sheets of chopped-foam. My homemade approach worked relatively well...absorbed the unnecessary bass frequencies and tamed down the muddiness...which left me with a pair of pretty balanced and neutral bookshelf speakers.





 General shot of dampening.





 2-layer stuff.





 1-layer.





 Best spray adhesive for open-celled foam...impossible to tear apart bond...foam rips first.





 Back and top done.





 Closeup.





 Current source (rockboxed Sansa with attenuator and JBL Power 20)





 Angle shot (temporarily home)





 Another angle shot (temporarily home)





 Beauty shot (temporarily home)





 Living on my desk for the time being.

 I know I should get some stands...believe me, it's in the works...plans are to get a couple of cinder blocks and glue them end to end so that they make a column. Seal, then paint them, install some spikes at the bottom, and voila...homemade 'dead' stands. I hoped you enjoyed this thread...pretty rewarding and satisfying.

 Brendan


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## MetalGeek

Those are beautiful. Nice work!


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## LeBuLLeT

Impressive! About how much did you spend on them and how many hours? I would try something like this if I had all the machinery you have.


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## cyberspyder

Around $250 and 40 hours...took forever because I could only work on them in class.


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## LeBuLLeT

Cool I wish I could build my own speakers. Are you going to try something else?


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## cyberspyder

Yes...this time a 5.2 surround set with dual subs.


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## LeBuLLeT

Nice, you should make another thread about it. How much are you planning to spend on all the material or what is your budget?


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## cyberspyder

About $75 per speaker...so that's about $375 for the speakers, then another $100 per sub....a total of $475 (decided dual subs was a hassle...would need a new receiver 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





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## LeBuLLeT

Cool cannot wait for the finished product.


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