# New hybrid amp by Little Dot, I+



## Meliboeus

I've seen this photos posted on their forum, seems a nice little beast...it is called "I+" will fit well on a small desktop...if it goes for less than 100$ i'll get it


----------



## ciphercomplete

Can you post a link?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

those guys are pumping out new amps.


----------



## andrew jc

Here you go Viewing a thread - NEW ! LD I+ Tube / transistors mixed Headphone Amp. I don't see any pics just a red X.


----------



## ciphercomplete

I didn't find the hybrid but has anyone seen this beauty? It looks like it would beat a pair of K-1000s into submission.


----------



## ciphercomplete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *andrew jc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here you go Viewing a thread - NEW ! LD I+ Tube / transistors mixed Headphone Amp. I don't see any pics just a red X._

 

I had to log in to see them.


----------



## Meliboeus

what is that little dot tpa-1 ? it is freaking awesome


----------



## Ragonix

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ciphercomplete* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't find the hybrid but has anyone seen this beauty? It looks like it would beat a pair of K-1000s into submission.

http://www.little-tube.com/bbs/Uploa...0483211415.jpg_

 

Anymore info on that amp?


----------



## warrior05

Looks like a nice compact little unit. Perfect size for a bedside amp.


----------



## tpc41

can someone with an account post the pictures here please : )


----------



## Meliboeus

i have an account and posted the images as a direct link, but as i can see they are not working, i'll try to attach them


----------



## andrew jc

That is a nice looking amp. Anyone know a price or ETA? I wonder if Penchum knows anything?


----------



## Meliboeus

I don't know anything...just saw the thread on little tube forums while searching for something else and wanted to share with the community...surely the guys at little dot will update soon with new information...


----------



## ciphercomplete

We should hear about a price shortly. It looks like that it uses Little Dot MK II parts mostly so they shouldn't have any parts supply problems like they have experienced with the MKVI.


----------



## tpc41

wow i really like the looks of this little guy... do you think this will be even cheaper than the MKII?


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

I've always joked about Little Dot's naming schemes and just when you thought it couldn't get much more confusing... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Kids are gonna get MkI and this new I+ all mixed up, and knowing Little Dot there will be a I++ in a few months.

 Looks amazing though, I never cared for the power tubes much in the Mk series anyway, an op-amp based amp with a EF95 input stage is gonna rock, hard. Oh man, look at that socketed op-amp, you thinking what I'm thinking?

 - DoA


----------



## Spareribs

Yummy. Amp lust again.


----------



## 928GTS

Okay this looks like fun and that op amp looks socketed so we can roll tubes as well as op amps. Cool!


----------



## Sean H

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *warrior05* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like a nice compact little unit. Perfect size for a bedside amp._

 

At first I thought you were being sarcastic and talking about the picture of that monster tube amp - the Little Dot TPA-1 - someone posted above. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Would make for a damn nice space heater next your bed though.


----------



## Planar_head

Hybrids = Potential cheap greatness.

 Definetly something I should keep an eye out for.


----------



## Meliboeus

yes, from the current values stated by LD, this amp is very good for low impedance phones

 800mW (32 ohm) 
 300mW (120 ohm) 
 150mW (300 ohm) 

 for the I+, where the MKII is

 300mW @ 300/600 ohms
 200mW @ 120 ohms
 100mW @ 32 ohms

 more powerful on hugh impedance but less current with 32 ohm..


----------



## andrew jc

From the little-tube thread it looks like it will be available mid-August, still no info on price.


----------



## Pricklely Peete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ciphercomplete* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't find the hybrid but has anyone seen this beauty? It looks like it would beat a pair of K-1000s into submission.




_

 

Holy crap that's some serious power there.......I wonder what the list is on this. Those power tubes are Russian, seen those before from the store where I get Russian PIO caps from...

 Serious chunk of amp there....wonder how it's sounds with pair of recabled 650's.....

 Seems LD is poised for an assault on the higher end market with this amp and MK VI...


 Peete.


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

^ that's also a 40Wpc speaker amp as well as a headphone amp.


----------



## shadowmoses

I've seen the TPA-1 in person and yes, it is Freakin Huge! Way larger and heavier than the upcoming Mk VI, which is why they don't sell it to US. It would cost too much to courier there and the risk of something breaking along the way is too great. It's meant to power speakers IIRC, though i can't remember if it drives headphones as well.


----------



## Meliboeus

Infos on price posted on the thread, this little amp will start at 109$ for the standard version, 129 and 159$ with the upgraded tubes...probably i'll buy it for my desktop...i have a pair of ef95 laying around....just grab the basic version and throw the good tubes in


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

Here's the run down:

 I+ Basic: $109, comes with Chinese 6J1 as stock tubes
 I+ Enhanced: $129, comes with Ediswan EF92 as stock
 I+ Top: $159, comes with Western Electric 408A as stock


----------



## Ragonix

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shadowmoses* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've seen the TPA-1 in person and yes, it is Freakin Huge! Way larger and heavier than the upcoming Mk VI, which is why they don't sell it to US. It would cost too much to courier there and the risk of something breaking along the way is too great. It's meant to power speakers IIRC, though i can't remember if it drives headphones as well._

 

Actually, they don't sell it anywhere. The TPA-1 was made purely as a concept amp to learn from.


----------



## Meliboeus

I lokked at LD website, the amp is available in stock, even at their ebay seller, 109$ is a steal


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Meliboeus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I lokked at LD website, the amp is available in stock, even at their ebay seller, 109$ is a steal 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Isn't it? I just stole it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 for use at the office. Can't wait for it to arrive. I am very keen on anything hybrid, best of both worlds.


----------



## Seba

Today I paid my new Little Dot I+. It's coming with WE408A's and with a red power LED.

 Can't wait to get it in my hands and roll some russian 6Zh1P-EV tubes in it and then compare it to my MKIV SE with RS-2's


----------



## malldian

Waiting on reviews, seems like this product could find a place in the market very easily as a second and/or starter rig.


----------



## shotmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seba* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Today I paid my new Little Dot I+. It's coming with WE408A's and with a red power LED.

 Can't wait to get it in my hands and roll some russian 6Zh1P-EV tubes in it and then compare it to my MKIV SE with RS-2's 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Are 408A really compatible with 6Zh1P-EV/EF95 ? I thought 6Zh1P-EV/EF95 were compatible with 40*3*A/B but not 40*8*A


----------



## Meliboeus

i'll wait for your reviews...though both my rigs are full...i no longer need an amp for my pc since i bought the Zero...


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *shotmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are 408A really compatible with 6Zh1P-EV/EF95 ? I thought 6Zh1P-EV/EF95 were compatible with 40*3*A/B but not 40*8*A_

 

They're not. The 408A has a 20v heater voltage versus 6v on the EF95 and they're not swappable. You must change jumper settings to use the 408A on the LD I+.

 - DoA


----------



## malldian

This would be great if it drives Grado's well. It would make me get a secondary rig to leave at home.


----------



## djork

Very interesting given the low price... waiting for reviews!


----------



## Seba

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dept_of_Alchemy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They're not. The 408A has a 20v heater voltage versus 6v on the EF95 and they're not swappable. You must change jumper settings to use the 408A on the LD I+.

 - DoA_

 

They aren't indeed swappable, but LD I+ has that switch inside that changes the heater voltage. I bought it with WE408A's because I want to explore that tube family also.


----------



## malldian

Bump, anyone got theres yet?


----------



## Seba

I have no info when my amp is about to ship from China. David contacted me and said that right now they can't acquire the upgrade tubes for I+ so I took some 5654's from MKIII/IV in place of the WE408A's.


----------



## Trapper32

Tung Sol 408a....Does anyone have an idea on their quality and SQ??


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seba* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have no info when my amp is about to ship from China. David contacted me and said that right now they can't acquire the upgrade tubes for I+ so I took some 5654's from MKIII/IV in place of the WE408A's._

 

I was contacted by David, saying that they'll ship at the end of next week. I must say that David and Little Dot are scrupously correct with regard to communication. I am continuously being informed and kept up to date, without having to ask for information. 

 I am really looking forward to this amp (it's gonna be my office amp and I want to pair it to a K501 and a K401) and this has been a very pleasant, first transaction with Little Dot for me.


----------



## ciphercomplete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *REB* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am really looking forward to this amp (it's gonna be my office amp and I want to pair it to a K501 and a K401) and this has been a very pleasant, first transaction with Little Dot for me._

 


 I would love to hear your impressions with the k501. Can't wait.


----------



## slwiser

The W408a is a great tube sound, everyone should love this at this price level. Ebay has them available all the time for a very good price.

 Does this amp require balanced tubes? Is it self biasing?


----------



## Pricklely Peete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dept_of_Alchemy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've always joked about Little Dot's naming schemes and just when you thought it couldn't get much more confusing... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Kids are gonna get MkI and this new I+ all mixed up, and knowing Little Dot there will be a I++ in a few months.

 Looks amazing though, I never cared for the power tubes much in the Mk series anyway, an op-amp based amp with a EF95 input stage is gonna rock, hard. Oh man, look at that socketed op-amp, you thinking what I'm thinking?

 - DoA_

 

HDAM ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I bet this little beauty with an HDAM is one kick arse little cottage rocker (need an amp for the cottage...).

 Peete.


----------



## Pricklely Peete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Trapper32* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tung Sol 408a....Does anyone have an idea on their quality and SQ??_

 

whoops got this confused with the 403B....

 Peete.


----------



## Pricklely Peete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The W408a is a great tube sound, everyone should love this at this price level. Ebay has them available all the time for a very good price.

 Does this amp require balanced tubes? Is it self biasing?_

 

Biasing is only for power tubes. The driver tubes need not be matched (triode pairs) but it's always nice to get a matched pair I say 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Peete.


----------



## festivus528

Ooh. I think I may have just found a new amp for my Grado SR225s. I am looking forward to the impressions.


----------



## Trax416

I have a question. I ordered a Zero Amp/DAC thanks to one of the reviews on here. It's my first Amp/DAC ever. 

 I was wondering, how the Little dot I+ basic would work with it? Would it work like a preamp? or what. 

 Still new to all this stuff. So excuse me if my question was stupid.


----------



## Pricklely Peete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Trax416* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a question. I ordered a Zero Amp/DAC thanks to one of the reviews on here. It's my first Amp/DAC ever. 

 I was wondering, how the Little dot I+ basic would work with it? Would it work like a preamp? or what. 

 Still new to all this stuff. So excuse me if my question was stupid._

 

Not a dumb question at all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Simply use the Zero like a regular DAC. It has the ability (the Zero) to output a line level (fixed voltage level) signal via the analog outputs (rca outs) on the back to the rca inputs on the LD I+. Thats all there is to it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Should work like a charm
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Peete.


----------



## Meliboeus

yes it would work...but try the zero built in amplifier, you may be satisfied with it and not feel the need to buy another headphone amp


----------



## Trax416

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pricklely Peete* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not a dumb question at all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Simply use the Zero like a regular DAC. It has the ability (the Zero) to output a line level (fixed voltage level) signal via the analog outputs (rca outs) on the back to the rca inputs on the LD I+. Thats all there is to it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Should work like a charm
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Peete._

 

So I would connect the Optical cable from the PC, into the Zero, then the Zero, into the Little Dot I via analog RCA. Then I would plug my headphones into the Little Dot I+? 

 This would make the zero run as the DAC and the Little Dot as the amp correct?


----------



## Meliboeus

exactly like that


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ciphercomplete* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would love to hear your impressions with the k501. Can't wait._

 

I'll post my experiences here once I get the amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Awesome, I just emailed David to say that I wish to buy one. This will go perfectly with my incoming Grado SR225. Now I just need to buy a proper source from what little money I have left over.


----------



## Covenant

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *REB* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was contacted by David, saying that they'll ship at the end of next week. I must say that David and Little Dot are scrupously correct with regard to communication. I am continuously being informed and kept up to date, without having to ask for information._

 

That's awesome to hear. The one fear I have about little-known chinese manufacturers like Little Dot and Darkvoice is how well do they communicate with their customers, and how well do they support their products.

 Keep us informed with how the transaction goes and how you like the product


----------



## TheMarchingMule

M'kay, according to the personal email David sent me, as soon as I pay, it will be 2-3 days of testing, and then 4-10 days of shipping time.

 I think I'll pull the trigger soon, thus starting my college setup!


----------



## Meliboeus

Anyone got his I+ yet ? Don't forget to post some impressions


----------



## Seba

Just got a word from David that the cases had been delayed from a subcontractor but they should come any day now and then they can start shipping out the first batch.


----------



## Pricklely Peete

It occurs to me this little amp is the perfect cottage set up....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I see a MK I+ in my near future. TMMule...LD is the best customer service I've ever dealt with...better than Magnepan and they are impressive to say the least. David will look after you, answer any and all questions promptly...and when he says they will test, you can bet they will...My MK III has been flawless even after I took it apart and modified it...works like a charm. David helped me out right away when one of the power tubes went bad in the first week of ownership..he sent out a replacement right away via EMS...great guys, good amps...excellent value...can't do better than these guys IMO.

 Peete.

 PS I'm biased towards them..but there is nothing in the statement that isn't 100% accurate..so it's not really a bias. Just thought I'd say though


----------



## nsx_23

Where can I order one of these? $100-ish isn't too expensive at all.

 Would this be a good introduction to the world of tube amps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ? I've never owned tubes before.


----------



## nsx_23

Anyone?


----------



## Meliboeus

i have the little dot MKII and it is quite a fun to try different tubes and i think it is a great introduction to tube sound for cheap....Little dot customer service and built quality is top notch, really....if the I+ will comply to the same standards...it will be a great amp...especially for low impedance phones, actually my MKII can output 100mW at 32 ohms...the I+ is capable of 800MW....it should be a GREAT amp for grados andd similar...that's why i am waiting reviews and opinions


----------



## Pricklely Peete

nsx 23....go to little dot forum and inquire there or email David from the eBay store...either one will get you the info you require. 


 Peete.


----------



## dantztiludrop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would this be a good introduction to the world of tube amps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ? I've never owned tubes before._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone?_

 

I think there hasn't been an overwhelming number of responses to your question because nobody has one yet. But, my bet is on the I+ to be a great introduction to the world of tube/hybrid amps....especially at this price point & with a nice little grouping of tube families to choose from. 

 I know I've been licking my chops in anticipation & looking forward to the potential of what it will have to offer.


----------



## Spareribs

I think this would probably be the ultimate "starving student" amp. Great low low price. I would spend the extra for the tube upgrade IMO.


----------



## rasterscan

Well, I'm weak. I ordered one. It should go nice with my A900's.


----------



## Ub3rMario

Do you guys think it would power my 2003 dt880 250 ohm alright? I'm trying to find a decent tube amp that's <$170, preferrably as cheap as I can while still sounding good haha.


----------



## Woobies

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ub3rMario* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you guys think it would power my 2003 dt880 250 ohm alright? I'm trying to find a decent tube amp that's <$170, preferrably as cheap as I can while still sounding good haha._

 

At 250 ohms you may be better off with the Little Dot MK II or MKIII. Plus your bright and sparkly beyers may benefit from the more tubey sound signature of the aforementioned tube amps.

 *EDIT*

 This does however, sound like THE perfect amp for Grados.


----------



## Ub3rMario

Hmm alright, thanks for the help Woobies


----------



## RC99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Woobies* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This does however, sound like THE perfect amp for Grados._

 

Any thoughts on this amp with the Denon D5000? Currently listening to them out of the upgraded iBasso D1.


----------



## Meliboeus

it should be a good amp, since the D5000 are low impedance phones, but we are speculating too much here...let's wait for some impressions by the headfiers who have already bought the amp...


----------



## Seba

When I get my amp, I can give you impressions with RS-1, D2000 and MS-1 atleast. If I still have RS-2's that time I will post impressions with that also.


----------



## Seba

Just got an email from David that my amp is on it's way to Finland! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My unit will come with 6J1's and EF92's.


----------



## Woobies

Sweet! Looking forward to your impressions


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Yup, I too jst got an email from David; shipping out to California on Monday!


----------



## dantztiludrop

Don't mean to put the pressure on, Seba, Marching Mule, & whoever else has one on the way, but......I think there's a whole bunch of us waiting with bated breath for quick impressions.


----------



## RC99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Meliboeus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_it should be a good amp, since the D5000 are low impedance phones, but we are speculating too much here...let's wait for some impressions by the headfiers who have already bought the amp..._

 

You're right.

 Looking forward to the reviews.


----------



## Meliboeus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seba* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got an email from David that my amp is on it's way to Finland! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My unit will come with 6J1's and EF92's._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheMarchingMule* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup, I too jst got an email from David; shipping out to California on Monday! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 good news, i'm looking forward to the comparisons with the zero and the MkIV SE


----------



## Navyblue

I figured that this is close to the cheapest way for me to have a taste of tubes, including DIY options. Before I decide to go tube or SS for my "real" amp.

 I need the input from the tube experts.

 Is it worth getting the premium tube bundle? Is the WE408A tubes close to the best thing out there?

 Or the basic tube is good enough for me to have a taste of it? And I can tube roll later if I were to decide to plunge into it, or even go straight to building a Stacker II or Bijou. If tube isn't for me, I guess it'd be a Beta 22.


----------



## Meliboeus

when i put mullard ef 95s into my little dot MKII, tubes which are considered among the best out there, the difference in sound quality over the stock chinese ones was not enormous, not noticeable at all at a first listen, very slight....my suggestion is to buy the upgraded version of the I+ with ef92s, because it is only 10$ more, and even with a good deal on ebay a new pair of tubes will not cost you less...plus it is better to always have a spare set of tubes


----------



## Navyblue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Meliboeus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_when i put mullard ef 95s into my little dot MKII, tubes which are considered among the best out there, the difference in sound quality over the stock chinese ones was not enormous, not noticeable at all at a first listen, very slight....my suggestion is to buy the upgraded version of the I+ with ef92s, because it is only 10$ more, and even with a good deal on ebay a new pair of tubes will not cost you less...plus it is better to always have a spare set of tubes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I doubt that there will be "spare" tubes, I think the basic tubes is replaced with the premium ones.

 If $10 get me the EF92, why stop there and not $10 more for the WE408A? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So the stock tubes are Chinese and the EF92 and WE408A are not? If so I guess the prestige factor might be worth it.


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheMarchingMule* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup, I too jst got an email from David; shipping out to California on Monday! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Mine too! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now I only hope customs won't sit on it for ages...


----------



## Meliboeus

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Navyblue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I doubt that there will be "spare" tubes, I think the basic tubes is replaced with the premium ones._

 



 ah ...this does make sense...but we can't be sure...just contact david for information


----------



## w62820616

I can talk to Dr.yang ,if you guys have any question about Little Dot amp, please send me a message .


----------



## w62820616

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ciphercomplete* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't find the hybrid but has anyone seen this beauty? It looks like it would beat a pair of K-1000s into submission.




_

 

40W+40W OCL OutPut Tube Amplifier

 ☉ Preamplifier：6H8C、6H9C (Rus) 
 ☉ Power Amplifier：6C33 (Rus，used for MIG-29 Aircraft) 
 ☉ Circuit：4X6C33C-B OCL 
 ☉ Price：6800RMB (nearly 1000$)


----------



## mr.khali

Hmmmm..... awaiting your impressions gentlemen. All this tube stuff has always been of interest but now at an low entry price it will be hard to not try one out.


----------



## Covenant

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *w62820616* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can talk to Dr.yang ,if you guys have any question about Little Dot amp, please send me a message ._

 

I have a few queries - first, what kind of transistors are employed in the output stage? Jfets? Mosfets? Also, what sort of output current does it provide at various impedances? The forum thread lists total output power, but does not break this up into voltage/current.


----------



## ashrahh

jsut asking but the little dot mk+ aren't available already is it?

 casue i head that they are out of production!


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ashrahh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_jsut asking but the little dot mk+ aren't available already is it?

 casue i head that they are out of production!_

 

No dude, this is the LD I+, not the LD *MK* I+


----------



## nsx_23

Can't wait for some impressions. May well buy one of these.


----------



## Trapper32

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Navyblue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I doubt that there will be "spare" tubes, I think the basic tubes is replaced with the premium ones.

 If $10 get me the EF92, why stop there and not $10 more for the WE408A? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So the stock tubes are Chinese and the EF92 and WE408A are not? If so I guess the prestige factor might be worth it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Are ^ the correct prices for the tubes???

 From the Little Tube website it has this currently
 $109 plus shipping for basic model (6JI) 
 $129 plus shipping for enhanced model 
 $159 plus shipping for top model

 with the only difference being the tubes...ie the ef92 are $20 more than the 6JI and the 408a's are $30 more than the ef92. That makes the 408a's worth $50 more than the basic model...

 You can pick up the 408a's on eBay for less than $8 a pair and if you don't really care for the 6JI tubes you can ask David to send u the amp minus the tubes for a small discount...Pick up some 408a's on eBay and u can have the top model for less than $110 plus shipping.


----------



## Gradofan2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Covenant* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's awesome to hear. The one fear I have about little-known chinese manufacturers like Little Dot and Darkvoice is how well do they communicate with their customers, and how well do they support their products.

 Keep us informed with how the transaction goes and how you like the product 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's a valid concern, which everyone should consider carefully. Though, I didn't find the language barrier to be much of an issue.

 While I had no issues with my DV332, and it is a phenomenal amp... the vendor (3c-Store) did ship me the wrong amp (240v instead of 120v), and I had to buy a voltage transformer/converter to operate it in the US. I was unable to get the vendor to prepay the cost of the shipping for the return exchange - the cost to return it was about $90. 

 That's a major barrier to obtaining warranty support on the Chinese amps - you really must consider the cost of returning them for warranty support, which in the case of the DV337 is $160+. 

 There are few amps for <$1000 as good, or better, than the Darkvoice amps, if you have no problems... but... you must accept the significant risk of the cost of warranty support. I'm sure its similar for Little Dot amps.

 The Chinese vendors really should establish US / EU dealerships & warranty support, or adopt a policy of prepayment for return shipping. Or, at the least, establish a local US / EU return shipping point to represent them. If they were to do that, there would be no reservations about buying them. Since the risk of loss is so low, you would think they would do that, because I'm sure their losses would be very easily made up by their total margins, even if they had to raise their prices $10-15 to fund the prepayment policy. 

 This would seem like a "no brainer" policy. I suppose US / EU buyers are so confident in the amps, that the Chinese vendors don't believe they need to do that, but since there would be very little risk, they really should. I'm sure a lot more buyers would try their amps, if they did.


----------



## Navyblue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Trapper32* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are ^ the correct prices for the tubes???

 From the Little Tube website it has this currently
 $109 plus shipping for basic model (6JI) 
 $129 plus shipping for enhanced model 
 $159 plus shipping for top model

 with the only difference being the tubes...ie the ef92 are $20 more than the 6JI and the 408a's are $30 more than the ef92. That makes the 408a's worth $50 more than the basic model...

 You can pick up the 408a's on eBay for less than $8 a pair and if you don't really care for the 6JI tubes you can ask David to send u the amp minus the tubes for a small discount...Pick up some 408a's on eBay and u can have the top model for less than $110 plus shipping._

 

I guess your prices are the correct ones, we took the prices at the top of the page. If tubes can be obtained so cheaply, I guess it made sense to buy the cheapest one.

 Do you have a link on the WE408A mentioned? I can't find it on eBay and I really have no idea where to buy tubes in general.

 Edit: https://www.tubeworld.com/hotdeals.htm 10 used 408A for $35, I guess I'm going for the basic model.


----------



## Trapper32

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Navyblue* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess your prices are the correct ones, we took the prices at the top of the page. If tubes can be obtained so cheaply, I guess it made sense to buy the cheapest one.

 Do you have a link on the WE408A mentioned? I can't find it on eBay and I really have no idea where to buy tubes in general.

 Edit: https://www.tubeworld.com/hotdeals.htm 10 used 408A for $35, I guess I'm going for the basic model. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

There is 5 NOS for 9.95 BIN at eBay My World - the-radio-tube-supply-company
 I think these are Sylvanias....I managed to pickup some Tung-Sols and WE 408a's in the past week for less than $3 a tube...They come up regularly on eBay...


----------



## w62820616

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Covenant* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a few queries - first, what kind of transistors are employed in the output stage? Jfets? Mosfets? Also, what sort of output current does it provide at various impedances? The forum thread lists total output power, but does not break this up into voltage/current._

 

Q1.BD139/BD140
 Q2、Support 32~600ohms headphones
 3、
 6.7V 0.22A @ 300 ohms
 6 V 0.05A@ 120 ohms
 5V 0.16A @ 32 ohms


----------



## tongson

Is a stock LD MK III still better than a I+ with a 408A?


----------



## Meliboeus

with mid-high impedance phones the MKIII wins...with low impedance...who knows ? No one has tried the I+ yet...the I+ outputs more current so it will probably be better with some phones...let's wait for some reviews


----------



## tongson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Meliboeus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_with mid-high impedance phones the MKIII wins...with low impedance...who knows ? No one has tried the I+ yet...the I+ outputs more current so it will probably be better with some phones...let's wait for some reviews 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks! I'll probably wait for reviews and decide which to buy. I'd like something that will amp well a SR60, SR225 and HD600


----------



## REB

Can't wait no more 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




... Anyone got theirs yet?


----------



## Seba

My amp is in Finland but about 150 km's away still...


----------



## HeatFan12

Well, reading this thread has motivated me to try one out. Just hit the magical blue button. Waiting for David for the invoice. My curiosity got the best of me for its power for low impedance phones.

 It has been stated many times before- David's customer service is second to none. I really can't emphasize it enough. I have been emailing him throughout the day with certain questions on the amp and every single one of them have been answered in record time and always explaining everything in detail. This will be my third amp from LD and I have to say certainly not my last...

 Jes


----------



## jpstereo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeatFan12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, reading this thread has motivated me to try one out. Just hit the magical blue button. Waiting for David for the invoice. My curiosity got the best of me for its power for low impedance phones.

 It has been stated many times before- David's customer service is second to none. I really can't emphasize it enough. I have been emailing him throughout the day with certain questions on the amp and every single one of them have been answered in record time and always explaining everything in detail. This will be my third amp from LD and I have to say certainly not my last...

 Jes_

 

Agreed. I recently emailed David regarding a power switch issue on my MKIII and he answered instantly and advised me how to fix the problem. It worked just as he explained it! I too am thinking of picking this amp up for an office system -perhaps with Denon AH-D1001s!


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Meh, it seems that mine was delayed for some reason, and it just shipped out today, as opposed to yesterday.


----------



## Trapper32

Mine shipped today also...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I figure Monday the music will be flowing.....


----------



## Seba

Just woke up when my door bell rang. Post man gave me my new toy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 God damn this amp is small in size and the glossy black finish in the case looks just beautiful. Have to open it up to se the gain and take pics...


----------



## RC99

Cool. Looking forward to your take on it, Seba.

 While we're waiting, there's an interesting post from DavidZheZhe in the Little Dot forums comparing this amp to the Mk II:

  Quote:


 For low impedance phones the Little Dot I+ will definitely provide more output power, better dynamics and bass control, however it also depends on your sound preference. The Little Dot MK II is a classic tube amplifier with a very "tubey" sound, whereas the hybrid Little Dot I+ will sound a bit leaner, but tighter. I hope this helps! 
 

I wonder how much "tubey-ness" one gives up in this hybrid architecture. Maybe it's worth it for the other gains, but obviously YMMV. My only reference is the hybrid Shanling A3000 integrated amplifier which has a tube input stage; it has no end of lushness, in fact it sounded like it was going to put a lampshade on its head and sing Swaneeeee-eee. But this is apples and oranges.


----------



## Seba

Pics

 First impressions with 6J1 tubes... Not bad at all


----------



## Woobies

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seba* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pics

 First impressions with 6J1 tubes... Not bad at all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Wow! Seeing it next to the MKIVse really puts its small size into perspective. That thing is tiny! 

 Can't wait to hear some more about this little beast.


----------



## Seba

I won't keep these 6J1's in I+ for a long time because I want to test those russian tubes that I also have in MKIV SE.

 Hmmm... Wonder if I could fit Burson Audio's discrete op-amp inside I+ 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe I'll have to order and see if it fits in the near future.


----------



## RC99

Seba, 

 How's SQ compared to the amp section on your Zero?

 Also, comparing the LDI+ and the MKIV SE, how much do the Grados benefit from the higher power of the hybrid?


----------



## Kane-DK

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seba* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pics
_

 

Nice pics Sebastian. Seems like the RS1s are in good company


----------



## Seba

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RC99* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seba, 

 How's SQ compared to the amp section on your Zero?

 Also, comparing the LDI+ and the MKIV SE, how much do the Grados benefit from the higher power of the hybrid?_

 

First impressions: LD I+ wipes the floor with Zero's headamp. It also seems that I+ gives more bass than MKIV SE. It will be interesting to see how those two LD amps perform when they have same driver tubes in them.

 Oh, and a note to low Z users: It is advised to keep the J3 and J4 jumpers in place. I first took them off but the volume knob was way too sensitive. Now with jumpers on it is much better.


----------



## jpstereo

Just ordered one of these pups too! We'll see how it compares to my MKIII ....


----------



## Navyblue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seba* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First impressions: LD I+ wipes the floor with Zero's headamp. It also seems that I+ gives more bass than MKIV SE. It will be interesting to see how those two LD amps perform when they have same driver tubes in them._

 

Being a hybrid, does the I+ sounds in between Zero and MkIV?

 I guess the MkIV sounds obviously tube to you? Would you be able to tell that the I+ is a tube amp in a blind test?

 I'd like to have a taste of tube sound, the last thing I want would be to find out that the I+ sound no different than an SS amp after getting it.

 Thanks.


----------



## Seba

This amp definately sounds more tube than SS. It just has more juice for low Z phones.

 I have changed the tubes to 6Zh1P-EV's and they sound much cleaner (without burn-in) than 6J1's. I'm right now enjoying some Apocalyptica playing Metallica.


----------



## Navyblue

Thanks, glad to hear that.


----------



## Meliboeus

interesting...so in your opinion is it a sensible improvement over the MKIV ? Now i have an MKII and i think it drives grados quite well...probably the hybrid design and more output power will make the bass even cleaner and faster....but it's already awesome with the grados whatever amplification you use...

 however if one has to purchase his first amp...it provides an incredible bang for the buck it seems...


----------



## Seba

I'm not commenting that just yet. MKIV SE can drive Grado's to very loud levels, but so can I+ too.

 I'll listen to both very closely and then give my impressions. But yes, I+ is a very good amp for Grado's.


----------



## RC99

Thanks, Sebastian. So far so good, it seems.

 As you listen more it'll be intriguing to hear if you think the hybrid brings any compromises to the table, or if it's simply a different sound signature.


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sour* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seems that this is a fine amp. If it weren't for my awe of tubes..._

 

??? Awe in a good way or a bad?

 If it was a negative "awe", I felt the same way. UNTIL, I tried them, then there was no turning back. So many things you can do to get it just right...


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeatFan12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ So many things you can do to get it just right...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Can't wait for a tube rolling thread to show up...


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dept_of_Alchemy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can't wait for a tube rolling thread to show up... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Absolutely DoA....I'm waiting for mine to arrive to try the small collection of 6AK5Ws & EF92s that I have acquired. 3 different families of tubes, great price, great service....PRICELESS


----------



## jpstereo

Gentlemen -

 What cans are you planning to use with your 1+? I will no doubt try my HD-650s but I'm looking to pair this amp up with something different (and economical) such as the Denon AH-D1001, Grado SR-80, Alessandro MS1 or perhaps even the Beyerdynamic DT770s (80 ohm version.) Any thoughts?


----------



## rasterscan

I plan on using a set of SR225's and a set of ATH-A900's.


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


 What cans are you planning to use with your 1+? 
 

Grados.....That will be my first choice....From what Seba posted, they are a great match.....

 I'm also thinking for the Denon owners it should also work really well..


----------



## jpstereo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeatFan12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Grados.....That will be my first choice....From what Seba posted, they are a great match.....

 I'm also thinking for the Denon owners it should also work really well.._

 

Hmmmm.....looking forward to Seba's impressions and everyone elses. Please keep us informed as to tube rolling and can options!


----------



## Woobies

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpstereo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gentlemen -

 What cans are you planning to use with your 1+? I will no doubt try my HD-650s but I'm looking to pair this amp up with something different (and economical) such as the Denon AH-D1001, Grado SR-80, Alessandro MS1 or perhaps even the Beyerdynamic DT770s (80 ohm version.) Any thoughts?_

 


 Considering the hybrid design, any low impedance set of cans should work very well with this amp. Graods, Denons, Ultrasones, etc.


----------



## Ub3rMario

You should try the alessandro ms-1's i'm selling!


----------



## ddoingwell

These new Little Dot amps must be setting some kind of sales record if there is such a thing. I wrote David (at Little Tube) and he said that amps would be sold, either on the LD site or on eBay "as they are ready". In two days, I have had 2 separate amp/auctions on my watch list and both sold within hours...

 Sooooo...Gentlemen, I ask this: is there any liklihood that high demand coupled with new product design could lead to manufacturing shortcuts or quality control issues? How have LD been in the past with new models? Do they rush new gear out into the market without ensuring their new designs are worthy?

 I'm still new at all this and appreciate your knowledgeable patience.

 Cheers,
 Don


----------



## TheMarchingMule

According to the tracking number, it shipped out of China on the 10th...hopefully I'll get it early next week.

 Also today I got an email from David, who kindly gave me the first draft manual of the LD I+ in .pdf format.


----------



## nsx_23

I'm getting more and more tempted to pull the trigger on this as my first tube amp.

 However, would I really hear a difference using Grado SR60s? Thats the question I keep asking myself....


----------



## ddoingwell

In my opinion, even without hearing the new flavor fave from Little Dot, anything would improve the Grado SR-60s. I just sold mine for $40AUD and was glad to be rid of them; truth told, I would have given them away. How did they get that overblown reputation? 

 Right now though, I'm still hoping someone responds to my question re: Little Dot Quality Control on new models...


----------



## Covenant

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_However, would I really hear a difference using Grado SR60s? Thats the question I keep asking myself...._

 

Yes, would be my answer. I haven't heard the Little Dot, but I've heard the change going from a MINT in a penguin tin to a fullsize home amp when using the SR60, and it is noticable.


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ddoingwell* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right now though, I'm still hoping someone responds to my question re: Little Dot Quality Control on new models..._

 

David told me that he had to keep the unit for a few days in order to rigorously test them before shipping it out, and judging from past comments and pictures of their headquarters, it looks like they do that for EVERY amp they make before they ship them out.


----------



## ddoingwell

Thanks for that. I'm always a bit nervous when a "feeding frenzy" occurs around a new product. And you're probably right about David at Little Tube; I haven't come across a single critical comment on his ethics. As I had recently posted a request for ideas regarding a new purchase here:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/2-s...7/#post4701419

 this Little Dot MK1+ could well be it.


----------



## Woobies

I think a lot of us are desperately waiting for further impressions. This little sucker has the chance to really be something special at it's price point.


----------



## nsx_23

Yeah, maintenance is another issue I'm worried about.


----------



## Ghoul

I'm really looking forward to the reviews on this new amp. Especially with low z phones like grados. I've been curious about the sq difference with an amp pushing more current vs my MK III. At this price point I'm very eager to hear about the results.


----------



## taso89

Just ordered this amp with WE408A tubes for my Denons! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I will definitely give my feedback when it comes in.


----------



## rasterscan

Mine arrived today! I will let you all know what I think in a few days. 
 I can say that it does have a nice smooth tube sound.


----------



## Ghoul

Could anyone let me know what kind of improvements I could possibly hear from the I+ vs my MK III? I've read over and over again how high current brings out the "full potential" of low z cans. Does that mean that I'll hear an improvement across the audio spectrum(highs,mids,lows)?


----------



## REB

Just got mine
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




! Gonna hook it up in a minute and watch the tubes glow...


----------



## TheMarchingMule

This is making me grumpy; I know I'm going to get the amp today or tomorrow, but I can't (properly) listen to it until *stevenkelby*'s iPod LOD-to-RCA cable comes Wednesday (or Thursday or Friday). I guess until then I'll make room for it on my desk here and have my roommates gawk at it like they have with all my other hobbies.


----------



## Seba

Yesterday I got back to my home so I couldn't listen to my new toy for a couple of days. Right now I'm listening to Ruoska (Finland's own Rammstein) with I+ and RS-1. Sounds just perfect...


----------



## Woobies

OMG! I'm going nuts, this sounds like such an awesome amp. Or perhaps I just want this little amp to because of its little price... Either way, I'm jealous.


----------



## Henmyr

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seba* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yesterday I got back to my home so I couldn't listen to my new toy for a couple of days. Right now I'm listening to Ruoska (Finland's own Rammstein) with I+ and RS-1. Sounds just perfect..._

 

RS1 and I+ better than mkIV?


----------



## REB

I'm liking it very much. It is still burning in, but it sounds more than decent with my K401, K501 and even with a pair of HD600s. It's funny what's happening. The 401s now have a bigger soundstage than the 501's which usually (always?) is the other way round.

 The low-end amping promises to be truly excellent. I've just switched the K701 pads on the K501 back to K500 pads (K501 pads suck no matter what 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




), because the bass was a bit overwhelming and the overall sound muddy. With the K500 pads the K501 sounds really good out of the LD I+, although soundstage is still smaller than the K401's soundstage. Interesting... This is a powerful little beast, methinks.


----------



## REB

Yup, even while still burning in, K401-LD I+ synergy is out of this world 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 I should switch the gain to high gain, but I don't have a screwdriver here (I'm at the office) and the K401/501 are driven loud enough, although it would be nice to have some more playing room.


----------



## Seba

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Henmyr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_RS1 and I+ better than mkIV?_

 

I can't announce it just yet... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Have to listen and compare at least this week.


----------



## HeatFan12

Received my I+ a couple of hours ago....

 Quick pics and quick first impression...

 Three main reasons for my purchase-

 1) Enough juice to drive Grados properly
 2) Small tube amp for a bedside rig with Ipod
 3) Enough juice to drive Grados properly (you think this is important to me?)
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Has it accomplished any of this yet?

 1) Yes
 2) YEs
 3) YES

 I ordered mine with the EF92 tube. Stock tubes are Ediswan EF92s...Very nice gloss finish with the gold tube protectors. Small, which was important to me. A very chic, beautiful amp....Does it sound as good as it looks?

 This is just right out of the box with the stock tubes, 2 hours on it...

 This little guy can rock. It tames the highs of the Grados perfectly without losing any of the Grado quality. It is still "in your face" Grado, however, with a bit of warmth to it. To me Grados have always been a "fun", "rocking" phone" and this little amp brings them to life. If I had to sum it up- they just sound "right", how they are supposed to sound. They need the juice that this little amp offers and this is right out of the box. I can imagine after burn in and some M8161's in it...Good Heavens...

 I have some WE408s on the way, to go along with all my 6AK5W/6096/EF95 I have already. I see some fun times up ahead...

 SO FAR- Beautiful little amp, with serious juice, great sound, small footprint, three tube families, great price, great service....Did I miss anything?












 Size compared to his cousins.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm getting more and more tempted to pull the trigger on this as my first tube amp.

 However, would I really hear a difference using Grado SR60s? Thats the question I keep asking myself...._

 

Absolutely....


----------



## malldian

So these and Sennheiser 600's is probably a no go?


----------



## REB

I briefly gave it a try with a pair of HD600s and they sounded good. Not (yet) excellent, but the LD I+ seems to have quite some juice. As it isn't even burned in yet, this might still change. I was pleasantly surprised with how it handled the HD600 straight out the box. I'll give them another try later this week, after the LD I+ has had a chance to burn in some more.


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So these and Sennheiser 600's is probably a no go?_

 

Matt, I have not changed the gain on it, but I can try one of my Senns in a bit and let you know...


----------



## malldian

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeatFan12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Matt, I have not changed the gain on it, but I can try one of my Senns in a bit and let you know..._

 

Awesome I am thinking about putting a system together for my roommate and if this is a good combo I think he would consider it.


----------



## ciphercomplete

Does anyone have a pair of AKG k701s to try in this thing?


----------



## Ghoul

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeatFan12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Received my I+ a couple of hours ago....

 Quick pics and quick first impression...

 Three main reasons for my purchase-

 1) Enough juice to drive Grados properly
 2) Small tube amp for a bedside rig with Ipod
 3) Enough juice to drive Grados properly (you think this is important to me?)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Has it accomplished any of this yet?

 1) Yes
 2) YEs
 3) YES

 I ordered mine with the EF92 tube. Stock tubes are Ediswan EF92s...Very nice gloss finish with the gold tube protectors. Small, which was important to me. A very chic, beautiful amp....Does it sound as good as it looks?

 This is just right out of the box with the stock tubes, 2 hours on it...

 This little guy can rock. It tames the highs of the Grados perfectly without losing any of the Grado quality. It is still "in your face" Grado, however, with a bit of warmth to it. To me Grados have always been a "fun", "rocking" phone" and this little amp brings them to life. If I had to sum it up- they just sound "right", how they are supposed to sound. They need the juice that this little amp offers and this is right out of the box. I can imagine after burn in and some M8161's in it...Good Heavens...

 I have some WE408s on the way, to go along with all my 6AK5W/6096/EF95 I have already. I see some fun times up ahead...

 SO FAR- Beautiful little amp, with serious juice, great sound, small footprint, three tube families, great price, great service....Did I miss anything?












 Size compared to his cousins.




 Absolutely...._

 

When you say drive them properly. What are the differences you're hearing so far compared to your MK IV? I'm very interested as I'm looking into the I+ to drive my grado RS-1's. I'm currently running them with a MK III.


----------



## viscosity

Does anyone know if this amp has enough juice to power the AKG K701s??


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ghoul* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When you say drive them properly. What are the differences you're hearing so far compared to your MK IV? I'm very interested as I'm looking into the I+ to drive my grado RS-1's. I'm currently running them with a MK III._

 


 I'm tempted to compare the two, however, the price difference is about $280.00, so head to head would be unfair.

 When it comes to Grados, if you pair them with an amp that will not drive them properly, they will sound very bright and fatiguing. The sound is there and it's in your face, but sometimes it is just too much to listen to for a long period of time. Tubes will have that "warm" feeling and I have tamed the highs before for Grados on my Darkvoice with different 6SN7 tubes and it sounded good. But it did not sound "complete" as if there was something missing. Bass and mids were there, but the highs just overpowered everything. I had been listening to my Grados recently on my X-CanV3 and it sounded damn good. Hybrids give you the best of both worlds adding a balance to the sound.

 The I+ just takes them to that last level that was missing before.

 Remember, I can only comment on what Grados I have- SR60 & SR225. I can't advise on RS-1s or RS-2s (I believe Seba has both). I really love both of them and I knew with the right amp they would sound great.

 A brief summary to put it in perspective on the amps I have. This is not head to head, just bringing out the best qualities in each.

 High impedance phones only- MKIVSE, DV336SE
 Low impedance phones only- LDI+ (1st) X-CanV3 (2nd)


 When it comes to high z phones, the DV and MKIVSE take it hands down. HD650s and DT880s as an example- excellent

 When it comes to low z phones only, right now the I+ is the winner. I have never been able to listen to Grados for an extended period of time. I'm going on about four hours and I don't feel like I ran a marathon.


 Does the DV and SE sound good with Grados? Yes they do, but IMO the I+ gives them that last uuummmmffff they need.

 Don't forget, I'm still running stock EF92s and it sounds good. Once I start rolling the families, it will only improve...


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Awesome I am thinking about putting a system together for my roommate and if this is a good combo I think he would consider it._

 

Matt, with the gain set to high, the Senns sound pretty good. The detail is struggling a little bit (not much), but It should open up some more. This amp was definitely tailored for low z phones.

 I'm thinking the AD2000 can sound great with this amp....


  Quote:


 Does anyone know if this amp has enough juice to power the AKG K701s?? 
 

That is a whole different animal...


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Listening to *Al Green* with this setup right now:

 [iPod (headphone out; max volume)] - [1/8-to-RCA] - [LD I+] - [Grado SR225]

 The bass definitely has more weight to it, and it was rather sloppy at first, but already as I switch to *Massive Attack's Angel*, the bass is starting to shape up, but not by much, obviously. Like *HeatFan12* said, this amp really helps shape the Grado sound; a hint of warmness, but still allows it to be a rockin' can. I can't describe it in words, you guys must buy one to hear for yourselves. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can't wait for *stevenkelby's LOD-to-RCA* to come by the end of this week...but for now, this is a noticeable help from straight from my iPod. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Listening to *John Lennon's Imagine* (MFSL) right now...it's very melodic and sweet, and actually has real weight to the sound, as opposed to just hearing the song. Get what I'm saying? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: Well this is interesting. Listening to *Pink Floyd's Time* (MFSL) right now, and the bass seems to be on its own track. Like, you hear the music...then you notice that the bass is on its own plane. Very peculiar to notice that.


----------



## wae5

I just ordered a LD 1+ with the cheap tubes. I have the LD MKIV SE and the MKV so I’m very interested in comparing them. I bought it primarily to pair with my SR325i because it has more current than my other LD amps and I’d like to hear if this makes a difference. I usually pick the most expensive option but this time I decided to go with the cheap one because I already have the expensive tubes in my MKIV SE. Please don’t expect a highly critical review because I tend to like everything when I first get it.


----------



## darkswordsman17

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeatFan12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm tempted to compare the two, however, the price difference is about $280.00, so head to head would be unfair.
_

 

Why the trepidation? Saying one Little Dot is better than another for certain headphones isn't going to hurt Little Dot. Even if you don't share your thoughts with the forum, I would think it would be in your own personal best interest to compare them and see which you prefer the sound of more.


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheMarchingMule* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_EDIT: Well this is interesting. Listening to *Pink Floyd's Time* (MFSL) right now, and the bass seems to be on its own track. Like, you hear the music...then you notice that the bass is on its own plane. Very peculiar to notice that._

 

I noticed the same with Radiohead's Karma Police straight out of my iPod (--> LD I+ --> K501). I am listening now to the same setup and same song, but I brought my old Philips CD player to the office to replace the iPod as source (my LOD hasn't arrived also). It's completely gone now, so I assume it's got something to do with the double amping that occurs if you connect the LD I+ straight to the iPod's headphone jack.

 Other than that, pretty mesmerizing sound...


----------



## Kane-DK

Has anybody tried this with d2000/d5000?

 I'm thinking, if it is good with Grado, it most be good with Denon also.


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *darkswordsman17* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why the trepidation? Saying one Little Dot is better than another for certain headphones isn't going to hurt Little Dot. Even if you don't share your thoughts with the forum, I would think it would be in your own personal best interest to compare them and see which you prefer the sound of more._

 


 You are correct. I was just stating that the MKIVSE is on another price level than the I+, so I just don't want to throw confusion in the mix.

 For the short period of time I have with the I+, I am really impressed at this little amp and I have only used it with my ipod so far (Rockboxed 5.5 Ipod--Flac--ALO Docking Station--ZuPivot IC)...This will be my setup with it, but I will tinker with a CDP and DAC in a few days.

 In reference to the I+ & MKIVSE. In short, I'll try a scenario- If they tell me you are going to an extended vacation for a long period of time and you are to bring 10 different headphones (AKG, Senn, Beyer etc.) but only one amp, the choice would be the MKIVSE. If the scenario includes only bringing 10 Grados or low z phones and one amp the choice would be I+.

 I have had the SE for a couple of months, so I am familiar with it. To me this amp does nothing wrong and with Senns and Beyers it is amazing. I went with the SE for the upgrades, however, I have been trying a lot of different tubes with it and no matter what I throw at it, it just keeps charging along and there is no noise (dead silent) with any tube combination. Also, I have it with a Zhaolu D3.0 DAC, CDP, Moon Audio ICs and Zu Birth power cord (on the 3.0), so a few upgrades have been made on this setup.

 They are both real winners in my book with tube options galore and a lot of fun.

 I purchased the I+ for Grados. I want to move up the Grado line, maybe RS-2 or RS-1, however, I was not going to dish out all that cash to have them perform at a mediocre level with the wrong amp. I feel confident now that if I dish $500-$700 on them they will perform at their potential, IMO.

 Hope it helps...

 EDIT: Just want to add that the I+ is also dead silent.


----------



## mapstec

I ordered mine last week, so hopefully it will be here before the weekend.

 Since we are able to use so many different tubes I started a separate tube rolling thread.

 If you have or use different tubes please add a summary there.
 Thanks!


----------



## taso89

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kane-DK* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anybody tried this with d2000/d5000?

 I'm thinking, if it is good with Grado, it most be good with Denon also._

 

I also think it's gonna give the midrange bump that the Denon needs, plus a little warmth to take away the digital edge in the highs. Well I'll be sure to let you know once my LD I+ with the top-end tubes comes in


----------



## Killahertz

Just to check in with my I+ having arrived yesterday - superb service from David at Little Dot.

 Well, let's just say that it works with Senn HD595. No, hold on 'works' falls well short, the result is amazing. First impressions are of space, speed and detail. The soundstage is expansive, and i'm amazed how well the vocal lifts for an amp that has only a few hours of play time. There is a little additional warmth that the HD595's lap up, but (importantly) not at the expense of bloat or lethargy - the LD I+ has all the pace and timing in the world. 

 Detail also amazes - I get the feeling that this little amp will take all the quality of signal that you can throw at. Indeed, I think it revels on it for it is quite ruthless with material that is sub par. 

 Will report back with further testing - the current set-up sounds so good that may be a while, however. I have Ultrasone 750 cans, a Little Dot 2+, and Meier Arietta for comparison, as well as a couple of valve options for the I+ itself.






  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mapstec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since we are able to use so many different tubes I started a separate tube rolling thread.

 If you have or use different tubes please add a summary there.
 Thanks!_

 

Great idea - will keep an eye on that and add my thoughts as I can.


----------



## Woobies

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Killahertz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just to check in with my I+ having arrived yesterday - superb service from David at Little Dot.

 Well, let's just say that it works with Senn HD595. No, hold on 'works' falls well short, the result is amazing. First impressions are of space, speed and detail. The soundstage is expansive, and i'm amazed how well the vocal lifts for an amp that has only a few hours of play time. There is a little additional warmth that the HD595's lap up, but (importantly) not at the expense of bloat or lethargy - the LD I+ has all the pace and timing in the world. 

 Detail also amazes - I get the feeling that this little amp will take all the quality of signal that you can throw at. Indeed, I think it revels on it for it is quite ruthless with material that is sub par. 

 Will report back with further testing - the current set-up sounds so good that may be a while, however. I have Ultrasone 750 cans, a Little Dot 2+, and Meier Arietta for comparison, as well as a couple of valve options for the I+ itself.








 Great idea - will keep an eye on that and add my thoughts as I can._

 

I'd be interested to hear how the Pro750s work considering that they are also low ohm phones.


----------



## Covenant

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Woobies* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd be interested to hear how the Pro750s work considering that they are also low ohm phones._

 

So would I


----------



## viscosity

Someone should try the OPA-Moon in one of these...

ÐÂ½¨ÍøÒ³ 1

 or any of the Hdams for that matter


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

I don't think the brown dogs are gonna fit.


----------



## Kane-DK

I'm sorry if this is obvious - but I know very little about tubes and tube amps.

 Could I buy the stock LD I+ and then put some 408A in it - without having to open up the amp?


----------



## ahko0774

The amp seems to be good bang for the buck.
 Has anyone tried this amp with Audio Technica's cans?
 I wonder how exactly they benefit from the high power output.


----------



## mapstec

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kane-DK* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sorry if this is obvious - but I know very little about tubes and tube amps.

 Could I buy the stock LD I+ and then put some 408A in it - without having to open up the amp?_

 

You can exchange the tubes for another variety of the same family, but the stock tubes are SJ1 and have a different heater voltage from the 408A.

 You need to open the top of the amp to get to the jumpers and set these for the tubes you want to use.

 But for this you only need a screwdriver and no other complicated equipment.


----------



## Kane-DK

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mapstec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can exchange the tubes for another variety of the same family, but the stock tubes are SJ1 and have a different heater voltage from the 408A.

 You need to open the top of the amp to get to the jumpers and set these for the tubes you want to use.

 But for this you only need a screwdriver and no other complicated equipment._

 

Thank you very much.

 If the operation only needs a screwdriver, even I should have a chance of completing it without breaking the amp.


----------



## taso89

The reference manual supplied by David should have exact instructions for the jumpers and switches and how you should set them for different tube families.


----------



## TC Johnson

This sounds like a great amp to try tubes for the first time. has anyone been using Equation Audio RP-21s with it? How much change have you noticed?

 Thanks

 TC


----------



## Killahertz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Woobies* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd be interested to hear how the Pro750s work considering that they are also low ohm phones._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Covenant* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So would I 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Right, i'm going to stick my neck out here and say: No!, the 750's (IMO) do not work well with the I+. 

 Why? Well, a few reasons. Firstly the 750's are an accurate (and full) frequency range headphone, with one limitation: mid-range. They simply do not do mid-range as well as they could. Many have said that they have excess bass and/or treble response - the truth is that they lack the mid-range response that would bring balance. Balance too in terms of a high level of accuarcy and overall neutrality. 

 The I+ has a warmth in the lower bass that the 750's do not need. On many tracks it simply dominates, further exagerating the lack of mid-range response. The I+'s impressive level of detail is a two-edged sword. On the one hand it exposes the treble, which without mid-range balance often appears strident, and rather difficult to listen to at length. On the other hand it exposes the quality of the low and very low bass in magical way - detail here is sublime (and perhaps the only redeeming sonic feature of the I+ / 750 pairing). 

 The other major issue is the openess of the I+. It's expansive, open stage, used in combination with the 750's S-Logic set-up, the result, and marked first impression, was one of hollowness. This is most obvious with instrumental sections, which lack the strong central focus of a vocal or lead/solo instrument. 

 Do bear in mind that this is all IMO, with a new I+ (albeit with well run-in 750's). It also does not serve to suggest that the 750's are poor headphones, they aren't. Mine aren't going anywhere, but i'll stick to using them with my Meier Arietta, which itself isn't quite as neutral as the 750's (and I) would prefer.


----------



## Woobies

So if the midrange is so lacking on the Pro 750s, wouldn't you therefore want a very tubey sound to bring the mids out? Like a Darkvoice 332 or something? I imagine the accuracy and "shrill" nature of SS amps would just exacerbate the Pro750s sound signature.


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Well, ****. The left side just stopped working. I verified it, so I know 100% it's the amp that's not working.

 Time to contact David.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 EDIT: Please, nobody quote this post. David has already responded, and he and I are working something out.

*EDIT EDIT: See post #187; the amp works perfectly again. The tube pins were just being a little wonky.*


----------



## Covenant

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Killahertz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right, i'm going to stick my neck out here and say: No!, the 750's (IMO) do not work well with the I+. 

 Why? Well, a few reasons. Firstly the 750's are an accurate (and full) frequency range headphone, with one limitation: mid-range. They simply do not do mid-range as well as they could. Many have said that they have excess bass and/or treble response - the truth is that they lack the mid-range response that would bring balance. Balance too in terms of a high level of accuarcy and overall neutrality._

 

Thanks for the impressions Killahertz 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I agree the Pro 750 does have somewhat hollow mids, in need of a bit of amp-EQ to give the mids a bit more warmth and body. The challenge is getting this trait whilst maintaining the speed, dynamics and microdetail Pro 750 needs.


----------



## taso89

TheMarchingMule, ahhhh... I hope this is an isolated issue, my LD I+ just shipped yesterday :\


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

TheMarchingMule, do let us know what gave out on your unit.


----------



## wae5

That's a small price to pay for perfection.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In any case, if I'm going to have a problem, I'd rather have it with an LD amp than with any other piece of equipment because when I did have a problem, David fixed it immediately and that's a minor miracle considering these amps are shipped directly from China.


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Hey guys, sorry I didn't reply sooner; I was playing Bioshock, and talking to David via my BlackBerry. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Long story short, my amp works again. And in no way was this Little Dot's fault.

 David gave me permission to quote him from some of the last emails sent:

  Quote:


 And if you switch the tubes back, do both channels still work? If so it sounds like a tube oxidation issue preventing proper electrical flow. I'd recommend cleaning the tube pins with Caig DeoxIT or electronics cleaner. All Little Dots since the 2++ have headphone protection in case of a failure. 
 


  Quote:


 Ah that's good to hear. A lot of times removing and inserting the tubes will loosen dust and other buildup via the scraping action. The electronics cleaner as described in the Reference Guide is a great tool to keep your tubes in top shape and is highly recommended. 
 

So yeah, those were his replies; what wasn't shown was my amazement that the amp worked again, as well as telling him that I had wiped the pins with a microfiber cloth before re-inserting them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also I like the fact that there is some kind of "headphone protection," because I've read too many threads from Darkvoice owners having their K701 driver blown. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So yup, there you guys have it. Maybe this is the amp's way of telling me I need to buy upgraded tubes, but for now I think they'll suffice.


----------



## Covenant

Glad to hear it


----------



## jordanross

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheMarchingMule* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also I like the fact that there is some kind of "headphone protection," because I've read too many threads from Darkvoice owners having their K701 driver blown. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I didn't realize DV's don't have headphone protection.


----------



## ciphercomplete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheMarchingMule* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, sorry I didn't reply sooner; I was playing Bioshock, and talking to David via my BlackBerry. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Long story short, my amp works again. And in no way was this Little Dot's fault.

 David gave me permission to quote him from some of the last emails sent:






 So yeah, those were his replies; what wasn't shown was my amazement that the amp worked again, as well as telling him that I had wiped the pins with a microfiber cloth before re-inserting them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also I like the fact that there is some kind of "headphone protection," because I've read too many threads from Darkvoice owners having their K701 driver blown. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So yup, there you guys have it. Maybe this is the amp's way of telling me I need to buy upgraded tubes, but for now I think they'll suffice. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The almost exact thing happened to me. My right channel went out and frantically emailed David. David was just like "Dude, use some Detoxit". Needless to say I felt like a dunce but David was really cool about it. He must hear similar things all the time.


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ciphercomplete* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The almost exact thing happened to me. My right channel went out and frantically emailed David. David was just like "Dude, use some Detoxit". Needless to say I felt like a dunce but David was really cool about it. He must hear similar things all the time._

 


 Deoxit is great. If you ever look closely at the pins on these small tubes, even though they seem clean, there tends to be a small buildup around them sometimes, whether you buy NOS, used etc...I have a small brush that I use with Deoxit every time I change tubes.

 Cleaning them takes 20 seconds and can save a lot of headaches when particles get stuck in the sockets...


----------



## mapstec

After only 47h transit time I received mine this morning.

 I already like it, I think it really is a terrific little gem, and that is using it with high impedance AKG K240....

 Can't wait for it to mature and to play with all the different options.


----------



## dario

Anyone uses the Sennheiser 650 with this amp?


----------



## taso89

I didn't even expect my I+ until tomorrow, but it appears that they rushed it from JFK to my dorm 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have some unboxing pics for everyone, sorry if they are blurry I took them on a Blackberry:




 Bundled accessories with the Little Dot: mini-to-RCA cable, 1/8'' to 1/4'' adapter





















 They glow a little bit but way too faint to see with flash, and only get warm but not hot; I've had them on for an hour and they're still touchable.


----------



## nsx_23

I so can't wait to get enough money together for one of these


----------



## taso89

Does anyone know what opamp is in the socket? I'm thinking of putting the OPA627 in the I+ when my HDAM comes in.


----------



## Trapper32

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know what opamp is in the socket? I'm thinking of putting the OPA627 in the I+ when my HDAM comes in._

 


 The opamp used is the MC33078...


----------



## taso89

Never heard of it.. I think I'm going to try LT1364, LM4562, OPA627 at some point and I'll be sure to post results 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 By the way, 30+ hours of burn-in later, I can definitely pick up the warmness in the sound. It's something that seemed to develop and may get warmer as I go along. I can see now what difference the high current does for the Denons, adds a lot more speed (attack) and works quite well with partial markl mods resulting in improved midrange and more natural highs and soundstage.

 BTW, not to detract anyone if they're on the edge trying to decide whether to buy, but the amp seems fairly sensitive to RFI; I have to keep my blackberry about a foot and a half away to avoid noise. It's not a big deal to me but I thought it's worth mentioning as I never had this problem with the Zero.


----------



## Covenant

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Never heard of it.. I think I'm going to try LT1364, LM4562, OPA627 at some point and I'll be sure to post results 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Mmmm, 627 in a hybrid sounds like a juicy combo 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Be sure to post results!


----------



## Pricklely Peete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Covenant* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mmmm, 627 in a hybrid sounds like a juicy combo 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Be sure to post results!_

 

It sure does....I wonder what an HDAM might do in one of these ?

 Peete.


----------



## Pricklely Peete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't even expect my I+ until tomorrow, but it appears that they rushed it from JFK to my dorm 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have some unboxing pics for everyone, sorry if they are blurry I took them on a Blackberry:







 They glow a little bit but way too faint to see with flash, and only get warm but not hot; I've had them on for an hour and they're still touchable._

 

By the sounds of it some dude named emill will deliver the manual by hand 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Peete.


----------



## djork

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Never heard of it.. I think I'm going to try LT1364, LM4562, OPA627 at some point and I'll be sure to post results 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



_

 

That's much appreciated. looking forward to your results.


----------



## darkswordsman17

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Trapper32* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The opamp used is the MC33078..._

 

I believe that's the same one used in the PreSonus Central Station.

 I am mistaken, the PCS uses MC33079D.


----------



## Danika k

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know what opamp is in the socket? I'm thinking of putting the OPA627 in the I+ when my HDAM comes in._

 

According to this list (http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/lis...t-amps-355789/) the I+ uses LM4562.


----------



## Seba

But if you take a look at Little Dot's own pics and my pics you can see that it uses MC33078


----------



## nsx_23

How are people enjoying these so far? I'm on the edge about buying one of these as an intro to tube amps.


----------



## taso89

^
 I think they will wonderfully complement your Grados (I'm not sure about the Ultimate Ears), I plan to get a pair of SR225's myself when my wallet permits me as I miss the Grado sound 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm sure it will only be improved once we explore opamp and tube rolling options, I feel that the opamp here is crucial and is something that can almost definitely be improved; it's the "last line in the chain" so whatever sonic differences one opamp yields vs. another should be quite audible. Plus it's as simple as taking one opamp out and putting another in.


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How are people enjoying these so far? I'm on the edge about buying one of these as an intro to tube amps._

 

I'm enjoying it very much. It's my intro into tube amps as well. I'm using it with a K401 (incredible synergy) and a K501 (good synergy). It has some 30+ hours on it and it sounds warm, but not too warm. It's more neutral than I thought it would be and it allows the details in recordings to come out. It seems to add some soundstage to the K501 and a lot of soundstage to the K401 (particularly with good recordings). I haven't tuberolled as of yet (although I ordered the amp with the best tube upgrade), but I will in the near future. For now I am very satisfied, especially given the price, which is absurdly low. The amp does noticeable better with low impedance phones. It drives my HD600 but not to its fullest potential and it simply can't drive a pair of old 600 Ohm DT900's. But it's not fair to ask that, I gues. With AKGs it does very well. I also use it to watch movies (same headphones) and given its good soundstage, that also works well.


----------



## Seba

I'm starting to hear differences between the two amps with RS-1.

 MKIV SE sounds much more detailed, refined and has probably drier bass. Oh, and soundstage is bigger too.

 I+ on the other hand sounds a little thick and because of that doesn't bring all those nice little details up front (you have to concentrate to find them).

 So next step could be to start some op-amp rolling to I+ to see if it can improve to MKIV SE level. I'm thinking of starting with 2xLT1028 or 1xLT1364.


----------



## taso89

Seba,

 I'll PM you sometime next week with my LT1364 impressions and you can tell me if they match your impressions with it. I'll try a couple of other opamps and maybe order some of the free ones as well


----------



## Killahertz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seba* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm starting to hear differences between the two amps with RS-1.

 MKIV SE sounds much more detailed, refined and has probably drier bass. Oh, and soundstage is bigger too.

 I+ on the other hand sounds a little thick and because of that doesn't bring all those nice little details up front (you have to concentrate to find them).

 So next step could be to start some op-amp rolling to I+ to see if it can improve to MKIV SE level. I'm thinking of starting with 2xLT1028 or 1xLT1364._

 

Well, to be honest, if the I+ gets into MKIV SE territory it's doing something rather special. 

 OK, so I know of the MKIV through reputation, but i'm still intrigued by your comparison of detail - what tubes are you using in the I+? I've found with Ediswan EF92's the sound is amazingly detailed - in fact it takes all the (considerable) detail I can throw at it with my source options. On the flip side, with Mullard EF92's the sound did become, well, more tube like. Expansive, with a warmer LF and a sweet-as-a-nut top end. Mullard M8161 i've only tested for absolute function, but I have a feeling that they may give the best of both worlds with a few hours on them.

 Still hugely interested in reading the tests on various opamps though


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Killahertz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, to be honest, if the I+ gets into MKIV SE territory it's doing something rather special. 

 OK, so I know of the MKIV through reputation, but i'm still intrigued by your comparison of detail - what tubes are you using in the I+? I've found with Ediswan EF92's the sound is amazingly detailed - in fact it takes all the (considerable) detail I can throw at it with my source options. On the flip side, with Mullard EF92's the sound did become, well, more tube like. Expansive, with a warmer LF and a sweet-as-a-nut top end. Mullard M8161 i've only tested for absolute function, but I have a feeling that they may give the best of both worlds with a few hours on them.

 Still hugely interested in reading the tests on various opamps though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 My sentiments exactly...Those stock Ediswan EF92 are pretty good. I have rolled in all three families and everything sounds very good. I seem to always revert back to the EF92 setting. I posted in the other thread, the Mullard EF91 and CV138/6AM6 sound great also. It is not even close to being burned in yet, however, it is sounding better and better...

 Would like to get into the opamp rolling world as well. Where do I get them and how do I do it?

 I'm sure you guys/gals are good at posting some diagrams...

 Thanks


----------



## nsx_23

Which configuration should I go for? I was thinking of just going for the basic one since I can change tubes later if I don't like the standard ones.


----------



## Danika k

Im about to get the basic one cause it looks like i can get a matched pair of upgrade tubes (like WE 408A) for a little cheaper than $50 on ebay, and i already have some other tubes i got for my MkIII.


----------



## wae5

Just got it. Couldn’t wait to try it with the SR325i. Lots of power and PRAT -this thing is fast! Doesn’t fall apart in tutti fortissimos in Turandot -Mahler and Shostakovich are next up. Got it with the cheap tubes and have 408s in reserve though so far I‘m very happy with the cheapies. If you have Grados and need an amp you may want to consider this little giant killer. PS The pictures don’t do it justice. It’s a very well made and elegant amp. If I didn’t know how much it costs and you asked me to guess, I’d say well over $200+ 'cause it’s a little gem.


----------



## TheMarchingMule

I hope this is the fault of the tubes, but now I'm getting major channel imbalance at (really) low volumes. Bad enough that even when I switch the tubes around, sometimes the left side doesn't wanna work anyway for a minute.

 Are new tubes the answer? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: To be detailed, it's not until I turn the knob to 20 that Elvis in mono is balanced. Until then, he hangs off to the right side of my head, and there's little to no sound coming from the left side. Disappointing.


----------



## mapstec

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheMarchingMule* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not until I turn the knob to 20 that Elvis in mono is balanced. Until then, he hangs off to the right side of my head, and there's little to no sound coming from the left side. Disappointing._

 

Sounds like a pot issue. Somewehere they had to cut costs... and the standard chinese pots are a pain in the ...

 Three out of four "simple" (read cheap) amps have an imbalance at low volume. You should ask LD for a replacement pot (if possible of higher quality, even if you have to pay something to get it).


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mapstec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds like a pot issue. Somewehere they had to cut costs... and the standard chinese pots are a pain in the ...

 Three out of four "simple" (read cheap) amps have an imbalance at low volume. You should ask LD for a replacement pot (if possible of higher quality, even if you have to pay something to get it)._

 

Ugh, another bur in my fur.... Thanks for the quick reply though; gives me an idea on what to do.


----------



## katanka

Has anyone changed the opamps yet in the LD 1+ ??


----------



## katanka

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheMarchingMule* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope this is the fault of the tubes, but now I'm getting major channel imbalance at (really) low volumes. Bad enough that even when I switch the tubes around, sometimes the left side doesn't wanna work anyway for a minute.

 Are new tubes the answer? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: To be detailed, it's not until I turn the knob to 20 that Elvis in mono is balanced. Until then, he hangs off to the right side of my head, and there's little to no sound coming from the left side. Disappointing._

 

Mine is perfectly balanced at the lowest level, so it may be something else other than the pot


----------



## mapstec

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *katanka* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mine is perfectly balanced at the lowest level, so it may be something else other than the pot_

 


 Hopefully it is that you have a "good" pot...

 Give it a few more days and we will see...


----------



## ironmine

Hello tube lovers!
 Please tell me your honest opinion - if I listen to heavy metal music (stuff like Death metal, Black Metal, Hard Rock, Speed'n'Heavy), should I stay away from tube amps or even hybrid amps? I hear so many people praising the sound of tube amps, I feel tempted to try it. But I am afraid that the tube sound is not compatible for my kind of music. 

 If I buy a tube/hybrid amp, it will work in the following chain:
 iRiver IHP-120 or DVD-player via optical or digital to Stello DA100, then to a tube preamp/headphone amp, then to the power section of NAD C320BEE (by passing its preamp section), then to AE Evo 3 speakers. I also bought Denon D2000 (some people say that SS amps are best for them).
 I would really appreciate your opinion.
 Thanks


----------



## katanka

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironmine* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello tube lovers!
 Please tell me your honest opinion - if I listen to heavy metal music (stuff like Death metal, Black Metal, Hard Rock, Speed'n'Heavy), should I stay away from tube amps or even hybrid amps? I hear so many people praising the sound of tube amps, I feel tempted to try it. But I am afraid that the tube sound is not compatible for my kind of music. 

 If I buy a tube/hybrid amp, it will work in the following chain:
 iRiver IHP-120 or DVD-player via optical or digital to Stello DA100, then to a tube preamp/headphone amp, then to the power section of NAD C320BEE (by passing its preamp section), then to AE Evo 3 speakers. I also bought Denon D2000 (some people say that SS amps are best for them).
 I would really appreciate your opinion.
 Thanks_

 

Well i listen to Metal as well, all kinds, and i bought this amp exclusively for my Grado SR 225, the match is very very good IMO. I do intend on getting a SS amp, probably a gilmore lite, but that will be for my HD 600 when i get those. 

 One thing i have noticed so far about this amp is that it has made the bass on my Grado's shine. It is much more there but still nice and tight.


----------



## Seba

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironmine* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello tube lovers!
 Please tell me your honest opinion - if I listen to heavy metal music (stuff like Death metal, Black Metal, Hard Rock, Speed'n'Heavy), should I stay away from tube amps or even hybrid amps? I hear so many people praising the sound of tube amps, I feel tempted to try it. But I am afraid that the tube sound is not compatible for my kind of music. 

 If I buy a tube/hybrid amp, it will work in the following chain:
 iRiver IHP-120 or DVD-player via optical or digital to Stello DA100, then to a tube preamp/headphone amp, then to the power section of NAD C320BEE (by passing its preamp section), then to AE Evo 3 speakers. I also bought Denon D2000 (some people say that SS amps are best for them).
 I would really appreciate your opinion.
 Thanks_

 

Don't worry. My Little Dot's bring out the speed of RS-1 to life and heavy music sounds very very good.


----------



## Ghoul

gonna be pulling the trigger on a I+ in the next few days. I'm a current MK III owner and have really enjoyed it. The curiosity of the I+'s high current vs the MK III has me going. I'll be using the I+ to run my RS-1's.


----------



## nsx_23

Anyone using theirs with AKG k601? I'm planning on buying a pair of K601s soon, than this.


----------



## jpstereo

I was in the same boat with a MKIII that I use to drive my HD650s (great combo.) I just picked up a 1+ for my Denon AH-D1001Ks - also very nice pairing! This is a beautiful little amp for the money asked ....


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone using theirs with AKG k601? I'm planning on buying a pair of K601s soon, than this._

 

No, but I've used it with every other model of the X01 series: K401, K501 and K701. Results so far:

 K401: synergy is out of this world. Soundstage is actually bigger than with the K501!

 K501: very good synergy. Fast, detailed, good soundstage, warmish sound.

 K701: Much better than expected. Not quite sure yet whether the LDI+ has enough juice for the K701.

 I'd say the K601 is worth the try with this amp...


----------



## wae5

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone using theirs with AKG k601? I'm planning on buying a pair of K601s soon, than this._

 

I've used the 1+ to listen to the K501 and K701 and both sound fine so I think you can infer it will work well with the K601. The only phone I've found that doesn't work with the 1+ is the DT880. I'm listening to the 1+ and K701 as I write this. With the right phones this is a magnificent amp and an excellent intro to the wonderful world of tubes. I've been thinking of downsizing and this would be one of the amps I would certainly keep.


----------



## taso89

The Denon D2000 - LD I+ synergy is great, it is leaps above the Zero amp. The Zero DAC is great though and I'm sure it will improve with the OPA-Earth in place.. The I+ alone greatly improved midrange and high details, and does an amazing job at taming the bass. Combined with partial markl mods this is a near perfect headphone for me


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Hey guys, my amp has been acting up again, so David has been kind enough to send me an extra pair of tubes, so hopefully they'll arrive soon. He also says this about the pot and the volume imbalance:

  Quote:


 It's probably not the potentiometer otherwise it more than likely would have been present from the start, and your other symptoms are corroborating an issue with the tube.

 Regarding pots, potentiometers always have their weakest tracking between channels at the extremes of the sweep. While better pots (i.e. ALPS) will minimize the tracking imbalance, they will still have some as it's just the nature of potentiometers.


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

Which tubes did you get with your amp? Matching and testing tubes takes quite some time and I wonder if LD checks their tubes before shipping them with their amps.


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dept_of_Alchemy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which tubes did you get with your amp? Matching and testing tubes takes quite some time and I wonder if LD checks their tubes before shipping them with their amps._

 

I got the entry-level one tubes. Ironically, all my rubbing on them while I kept pulling them in and out has rubbed the markings off, so I can't tell whether they're a pair or not. I do notice some oxidation on the pins, but I don't have any isopropyl alcohol to deal with that.


----------



## ironmine

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Denon D2000 - LD I+ synergy is great, it is leaps above the Zero amp. The Zero DAC is great though and I'm sure it will improve with the OPA-Earth in place.. The I+ alone greatly improved midrange and high details, and does an amazing job at taming the bass. Combined with partial markl mods this is a near perfect headphone for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hello Taso89!
 I see from your post that you are a happy owner of Denon D2000 - LD I+. Please tell me what kind of music genres do you listen to?


----------



## Planar_head

Hey TheMarchingMule,

 How is the Grado SR225's with the LD I+? I think I might make this my first foray into tube world (darn these Grado and their addictiveness) and pair them with a nice DAC to finish off the setup.

 You said you used them with the stock tubes, how good are they? Any particular sound signature?


----------



## taso89

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ironmine* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello Taso89!
 I see from your post that you are a happy owner of Denon D2000 - LD I+. Please tell me what kind of music genres do you listen to?_

 

I listen to a lot of top40, electronica, hip-hop. This amp is VERY forgiving. A lot of my music is compressed, as low as 128kbps but sounds quite good through the hybrid tube amp. I gained a lot of detail through using the I+, but this is definitely not a super-analytical setup, if you want that I would stick to SS amps which is far less forgiving. For me, the I+ has just enough warmth.


----------



## wae5

So far I've listened to the LD 1+ with the following phones: 

 MDR-F1
 MS1
 SR325i
 AD700
 HD600
 HT880
 K501
 K701

 All except the HT880 sound fine. The HT880 sounds dull may be because it's under powered.

 The SR325i and K501 sound best. I listen to classical music so you should take this into account. I'm using the cheap tubes which I think sound superb.


----------



## Ghoul

Well everyone, I just pulled the trigger on the I+. I got the basic model but intend on rolling tubes from my MK III pretty quick. Hope to see it at my doorstep some time late this coming week. I'll be throwing my RS-1's at it to see what kind of changes in SQ I get compared to the MK III.


----------



## atbglenn

Ghoul, love your avatar. It's awesome


----------



## taso89

atbglenn,

 Seems like we are quite close; I dorm and go to school in Stony Brook and pass by Huntington all the time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do you know of any LI meets? I'd love to try out other people's gear.


----------



## atbglenn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_atbglenn,

 Seems like we are quite close; I dorm and go to school in Stony Brook and pass by Huntington all the time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Do you know of any LI meets? I'd love to try out other people's gear._

 

It's funny, out my friends that are into audio, only one is into high end head gear. And he lives in Florida. I have a good friend that owns high end stereo store here on Long Island, but he doesn't sell much in a way of head gear. Strange huh?
 Sorry but I do not know of any LI meets.

 Glenn


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Planar_head* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey TheMarchingMule,

 How is the Grado SR225's with the LD I+? I think I might make this my first foray into tube world (darn these Grado and their addictiveness) and pair them with a nice DAC to finish off the setup.

 You said you used them with the stock tubes, how good are they? Any particular sound signature?_

 

Sorry for the late reply! I think the synergy is superb; like said before on this thread, it gives Grados a bit of warmth, yet still allows them to be rockin' cans with a perfect dash of fullness.

 I'm taking a forced break from my setup though while I wait for replacement tubes to come in.


----------



## viscosity

niice. my hometown is huntington also. dorming at NewPaltz right now tho


----------



## atbglenn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *viscosity* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_niice. my hometown is huntington also. dorming at NewPaltz right now tho_

 

Cool, I used to hang out in New Paltz back in the 70's when it was a hippie town. I was one of the hippies


----------



## TKvC-SainT

Hi guys.

 I joined team Little Dot I+ today, I ordered it last tuesday, so it got here really fast.

 So far I must say that I am impressed. The first impression when unpacking was that it looks really cool, with it´s all black glossy finish. I think it´s even better looking than the Mk4SE I had before. Another thing I noticed when picking it up out of the box was how heavy it is, was not expecting that from it´s small look.

 So far I have only run it for a couple of hours, listening through my ESW9s. And again I must say that I´m really impressed by what this amp does for the ESW9s, having only listened to them with my iriver E10 portable device for some time, I was impressed by how much wider the soundstage became, also the bass was tightened up considerably. This makes me feel that the ESW9s are close to my version of perfection.

 Now I´m just really eagerly awaiting the arrival of my newly bought W5000s, they should be here tomorrow, so expect more impressions some time tomorrow.


----------



## Ghoul

Hey all, just received my I+ today! Talk about fast service. I put my order in on 9/26 and got it 10/1. That's some lightning service and shipping from china to southern california. 

 Well first things first. The I+ is certainly a small, well built, handsome looking devil. I powered it on and everything seemed to be working fine with no damage from shipping. Now on to how it sounds.

 Coming from portables (corda move, xin mini IV, and go-vibe 6) and then finally moving to the Little Dot MK III was a big jump for me. Now moving on to the I+ from the MK III; purely to see if the higher current I+ coulld show me SQ benefits the MK III could not. I got the I+ to match up with my RS-1's and so far am not disappointed. Though I've lost a tad of warmth. I've gained tighter more pronounced bass and what seems to be some of the grado attack the warm MK III was smothering. I quickly tossed in some Mullard 8100's and am pleased with this combo. I've only burned it in for 5 hours and got bunch more to go before I make my final decision on the I+.


----------



## HippieTom

hi guys. ill try this tread. How is the I+ with the k271s?


----------



## Ghoul

Anyone who's familiar with opamps could you help me out? I'd like to swap opamps in the I+ but have no idea which ones are some of the better to try out and from where to buy???


----------



## HeatFan12

Congrats Ghoul...The I+ rolling thread has opamp info...

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/lit...43/index3.html


----------



## Ghoul

Thanks for the heads up HeatFan. Anyone got any updates on their I+, tube swaps, opamps...etc?


----------



## jpstereo

I'm using a pair of GE five star 6AK5/EF95s and I like what I am hearing thus far!


----------



## taso89

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ghoul* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the heads up HeatFan. Anyone got any updates on their I+, tube swaps, opamps...etc?_

 

There's a short writeup about some of the opamps I've tried in the tube rolling thread. Basically LT1364 is a good start so far


----------



## HippieTom

Please post more impressions with Little Dot I+ compared to other amps with akg phones.(and others) what about 336se compared to LD I+ with low impedance phones? Dying waitin for my payday to come so i can order a tube.


----------



## Sganzerla

I would be very interested in information about how it drives AKG K701 compared to Zero DAC and LD MK III. If someone can help here...


----------



## viscosity

I second the 2 comments above.. anyone have this amp with either the Zero or the AKG K701s??


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *viscosity* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I second the 2 comments above.. anyone have this amp with either the Zero or the AKG K701s??_

 

+3

 Hey, what can I say? I'm just so FOTM!


----------



## ddoingwell

I reckon we should all hope that our friend Penchum gets a LD1+ soon; then the prayers of those who have come before me shall be answered en masse.


----------



## Chefano

Come on guys.. need to know how about this little beast drives K701!!! Pleasee!!! 






 Thanks!


----------



## wae5

While I haven't directly compared it with my MKIV SE, the 1+ drives the K701 exceedingly well and if it were to be my only amp, I'd be very pleased because it's a very fast and exciting amp with a big soundstage and lots of airy transparency and PRAT. Even if it's not a slayer of Raptors and Woos, for $109 it certainly has enough glowing red and blue petite elegance and power to earn an honored spot on your bedside table. For $109 it's gotta be the new low priced leader and I think all HeadFiers owe it to themselves to hear it because even if it does nothing else, it will at least make some of us very happy and keep other amp makers humble.


----------



## HippieTom

Thanx wae5. Just the answer i was looking for.Looks too good to be missed.Its crasy that this LD has so much power for it little sice.


----------



## jinp6301

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *atbglenn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's funny, out my friends that are into audio, only one is into high end head gear. And he lives in Florida. I have a good friend that owns high end stereo store here on Long Island, but he doesn't sell much in a way of head gear. Strange huh?
 Sorry but I do not know of any LI meets.

 Glenn_

 

the NYC meet is pretty soon, just a heads up


----------



## dantztiludrop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wae5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Even if it's not a slayer of Raptors and Woos, for $109 it certainly has enough glowing blue petite elegance and power to earn an honored spot on your bedside table. For $109 it's gotta be the new low priced leader and I think all HeadFiers owe it to themselves to hear it because even if it does nothing else, it will at least keep us and the amp makers humble._

 

At $109 the I+ looks to be a killer "bang for the buck" deal, which makes it absolutely jaw-dropping at $77! 

 The Microsoft "live search" cashback deal that was going on a couple months ago is back & has been at 30% off the past few days....no saying how long it will last for(?). Searching for Little Dot doesn't seem to work easily, so search for "Wii" or "Shure SE530". Click on the ebay link at top of entries, which will bring you into ebay with a 30% off banner on top of page. Now you are free to search thru ebay for whatever you want & that banner will stay up. It needs to be a "Buy It Now" item, have to pay with PayPal, & it takes 2 months to get the $ put into your paypal acct. It's not a scam because I've done it twice already a couple months ago & have received the money...bought D5000s for $345! You can get new in sealed box SE530s, for example, for $196....not bad!

 Needless to say, I just ordered the I+!


----------



## leothan

is it applicable for singapore or another country ?


----------



## StratCat

^^

 U.S.A. Only


----------



## Chefano

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wae5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While I haven't directly compared it with my MKIV SE, the 1+ drives the K701 exceedingly well and if it were to be my only amp, I'd be very pleased because it's a very fast and exciting amp with a big soundstage and lots of airy transparency and PRAT. Even if it's not a slayer of Raptors and Woos, for $109 it certainly has enough glowing red and blue petite elegance and power to earn an honored spot on your bedside table. For $109 it's gotta be the new low priced leader and I think all HeadFiers owe it to themselves to hear it because even if it does nothing else, it will at least make some of us very happy and keep other amp makers humble._

 

What about the bass and mid-bass?

 Thanksss!!


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chefano* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What about the bass and mid-bass?

 Thanksss!!_

 

Bass is so good that I now refrain from using K701 pads for the K500 I use with the LD I+. With the K701 pads on, bass is too prominent...


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *REB* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bass is so good that I now refrain from using K701 pads for the K500 I use with the LD I+. With the K701 pads on, bass is too prominent..._

 

Agree, this amp really seems to focus on the bass.


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheMarchingMule* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Agree, this amp really seems to focus on the bass._

 

I'm gonna try some other tubes tomorrow and see whether that'll make a difference to the bass (Philips 408a).


----------



## taso89

Going from the Zero to the I+ actually tightened up the bass for me. Same in quantity, but much better in quality.

 Let me know how those Phillips 408A's sound!


----------



## Chefano

Wow!!!
 Thats is awesome!! Just bought one!!! 
 Cant wait to hear it!!

 Just need to know what tubes sound best!! 
 Love this place !!


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *REB* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bass is so good that I now refrain from using K701 pads for the K500 I use with the LD I+. With the K701 pads on, bass is too prominent..._

 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheMarchingMule* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Agree, this amp really seems to focus on the bass._

 

Hrm…

 I was hoping for dominant qualities more in line with larger soundstage, transparency, etc.

 I suppose that’s the SS output stage kicking out the juice.


----------



## malldian

Amp isnt on eBay anymore?


----------



## rasterscan

Give him time to reslist another on eBay.


----------



## taso89

You can also order straight from David, simply throw him an e-mail at little.tube@gmail.com, I've done it this way with good results. Just write to him, telling him what you want including any tube options and where you need it shipped to.

 You'll still have a Paypal receipt.


----------



## gs750

I bought one direct a couple of weeks ago. Had it in my hands 6 days after ordering. It's my first step into any type of quality audio, along with some Denon AH-D1001 phones, so I can't really say how good it is comparatively but it sure sounds good to me.


----------



## oofie810

Anyone know/use this amp with the hd650?


----------



## taso89

HD650's impedance is 300 ohms, so this amp won't drive them properly.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rasterscan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Give him time to reslist another on eBay._

 

It's up there now.

 [I'm CST (Chicago) timestamp]


----------



## wae5

Of all the phones I checked out with the 1+ the 300 ohm DT880 sounded least good so I assume you won't be happy with the HD650 with the 1+ either which makes me ask was the 1+ voiced with Grados?


----------



## taso89

^^

 According to MarchingMule SR225 sounds great with the I+


----------



## katanka

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^^

 According to MarchingMule SR225 sounds great with the I+_

 

Ill second that.


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^^

 According to MarchingMule SR225 sounds great with the I+_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *katanka* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ill second that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll third tha- ...wait a second.


----------



## Seba

And I like the I+ very much with RS-2's and RS-1's.


----------



## Ghoul

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seba* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And I like the I+ very much with RS-2's and RS-1's._

 


 x2 on the rs-1 vote. The I+ delivers on its promise on driving low impedance phones IMHO. Much greater synergy with the I+ versus my MK III.


----------



## wae5

The 1+ may turn out to be the amp to beat for Grados.


----------



## RC99

Enjoying my I+ with RS-2s and D5000s. What a musical little amp -- my first tube experience.

 Before buying the Little Dot, I'd been on the verge of selling my RS-2s. I wouldn't now. They sound much better than when driven by my SS amps -- the modded Zero and Rev. B iBasso D1 -- as in different cans entirely. Exciting, punchy, and definitely warmer.

 The D5000s benefit somewhat less from the I+ but still sound good. I notice recording quality has become more critical... This is with the EF95 tubes.


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RC99* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Enjoying my I+ with RS-2s and D5000s. What a musical little amp -- my first tube experience.

 Before buying the Little Dot, I'd been on the verge of selling my RS-2s. I wouldn't now. They sound much better than when driven by my SS amps -- the modded Zero and Rev. B iBasso D1 -- as in different cans entirely. Exciting, punchy, and definitely warmer.

 The D5000s benefit somewhat less from the I+ but still sound good. I notice recording quality has become more critical... This is with the EF95 tubes._

 

Glad to hear that, what tubes are you using with your I+?


----------



## thevoiceofalan

Got my little dot I + a couple of weeks ago and it realy is great 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 This takes a analog feed from my pc at the moment, but I am thinking about getting a Zero DAC to accompany my Grado SR60's whats folks thoughts on those together?


----------



## katanka

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thevoiceofalan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my little dot I + a couple of weeks ago and it realy is great 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This takes a analog feed from my pc at the moment, but I am thinking about getting a Zero DAC to accompany my Grado SR60's whats folks thoughts on those together?_

 

dew it. It will sound cool


----------



## taso89

For the money, I feel like it would be better spent upgrading your cans to the SR225 if you like the Grado sound. I guess it depends on what your current source is, as in how good your current sound card is.


----------



## malldian

I wouldn't put that much behind the sr60.. while I love them I would imagine that they are the weak point in your system right now.


----------



## StratCat

OK -

 Late to the party, but count me in.

 Got the stock LD 1+ just now for ~87 bux (+ shipping) using the MSLive rebate. The rebate's been 20% the last several days...too bad I waited, it was 30% 2 or 3 days ago.

 Will use a Zero DAC to drive the LD feeding Grado SR225, Denon D2000, and AKG K701. I'm really interested in seeing how it handles the K701's and D2000's, especially the K701's.

 Thanks for the great thread, guys.


----------



## taso89

I'm not sure about the K701 but the SR225 and D2000 are going to sound quite a bit better, upgrading from the Zero amp.


----------



## Charles_1985

I bought mine a week ago, came today. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I won't have a chance to fire it up until Sunday/Monday, but I took it out of the package. This is my first amp. It feels very solid and has nice build quality. I'm eagerly looking forward to hearing it.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure about the K701 but the SR225 and D2000 are going to sound quite a bit better, upgrading from the Zero amp._

 

I suspect so, and TBH, the K701's have to sound better than when driven by the two LT1364 op amps in the Zero's HPA section. Tho how much better, will remain TBD, but I'll report back.

 FWIW, the K701's actually are relatively low impedance: 62 Ohm

 LD 1+ published specs show:

 - 150mW output @ 300 Ohms
 - 300mW output @ 120 Ohms
 - 800mW output @ 32 Ohms

 So it should supply somewhere between 300 - 800mW to the K701's, I'm guessing maybe ~1/2W. No idea if that's trully sufficient, but hey, for 120 bux to my door it's worth a shot.

 If not, I can always toss it off to my wife for her D2000's use based on the cuteness factor alone, I bet!


----------



## taso89

I am confident that the amp will drive the K701 loud enough, how WELL it is driven is another question but I don't see any reason it wouldn't be. BTW the I+ works quite well with the LT1364 inside, so if you are happy with the I+ you can unplug the power from the zero head amp section (may be a good idea to do anyway if you're going to put an HDAM in the DAC section), take out one of your LT1364's and stick it in the I+.

 As far as I know I was the first to start some opamp swapping with this little amp, with the mindset that the opamp in the I+ is pretty much the last part of the audio chain, since it is the output, and that a poor stock opamp would "bottleneck" the sound, so to speak.

 But to add on to your point (phew), yes it will DEFINITELY sound better than the Zero with LT1364's


----------



## StratCat

Quoting myself:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StratCat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Got the stock LD 1+ just now for ~87 bux (+ shipping) using the MSLive rebate. The rebate's been 20% the last several days...too bad I waited, it was 30% 2 or 3 days ago._

 

Bah!

 9 hours pass and the rebate's back up to 30% !!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So now, what could I have done with all that x-tra savings? Uh, err, oh! That's right...FULL price on this goofy thing is only around 100 bux! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 nm 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 (Seriously tho, $76 + shipping right now with MSLive rebate if anyone needs the pot sweetened to take the jump - Crazy cheap, IMHO)


----------



## RC99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dept_of_Alchemy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad to hear that, what tubes are you using with your I+?_

 

Sorry for the confusion. They're not EF95s after all. I'm using the stock Ediswan EF92 tubes provided by Little Dot.

 I'm also watching the tube rolling thread with interest.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As far as I know I was the first to start some opamp swapping with this little amp, with the mindset that the opamp in the I+ is pretty much the last part of the audio chain, since it is the output, and that a poor stock opamp would "bottleneck" the sound, so to speak._

 

I don't have the LD 1+ here yet, so I can't signal trace, but was wondering: Do you know the general circuit architecture for this new amp? Specifically the tubes/op amp/output FETs relationship?

 I was wondering if the op amp drives the tubes or vis' a versa (assuming the output is thru pwr FETs - I'm not sure that's a valid assumption) 

  Quote:


 But to add on to your point (phew), yes it will DEFINITELY sound better than the Zero with LT1364's 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

Not wanting to get too OT, but check out the Zero's HPA op amp I'm considering getting (in my sig) - 310mA OP current vs the LT1364's 50mA, and the stock NE5532's 38mA! 

 I'm still working on maxing out the Zero even tho I'm getting the LD 1+ so I can still have a purely SS singal path when I desire.


----------



## malldian

Just bought one... considering downgrading for a while. Can't wait to check it out!


----------



## taso89

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StratCat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't have the LD 1+ here yet, so I can't signal trace, but was wondering: Do you know the general circuit architecture for this new amp? Specifically the tubes/op amp/output FETs relationship?_

 

All I know is what the Little Tube people have mentioned; the tubes are input and the opamp is output. In other words, the opamp deals with the actual amplification if I understand this correctly.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All I know is what the Little Tube people have mentioned; the tubes are input and the opamp is output. In other words, the opamp deals with the actual amplification if I understand this correctly._

 

Interesting....thx for the response.

 I would've expected some type of a discrete FET-type output in order to get those relatively high OP pwr specs - 800mW @ 32 Ohms! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'll guess we'll see when we can get a better peak under the hood.

 Thx again for your response.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seba* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Today I paid my new Little Dot I+. It's coming with WE408A's and with a red power LED._

 

Red LED? 

 Did we have a choice of colors? I didn't see anything in the purchase notes (I used ebay).


----------



## Maxvla

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StratCat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_(Seriously tho, $76 + shipping right now with MSLive rebate if anyone needs the pot sweetened to take the jump - Crazy cheap, IMHO)_

 

Forgive me for jumping in headlong into this, but can you guide me to where this is being sold and how to obtain it at this price? It may not do what I need for my HD580s, but would certainly be excellent for an undecided mid range Grado I have slated for early next year.


----------



## dantztiludrop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Maxvla* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Forgive me for jumping in headlong into this, but can you guide me to where this is being sold and how to obtain it at this price? It may not do what I need for my HD580s, but would certainly be excellent for an undecided mid range Grado I have slated for early next year._

 

Go to Live Search. I think it is easiest to just type in "Wii" into the search engine. The very 1st result at the top of the list is for the ebay link & it will say "You may get 30% off with PayPal..."; click that link, which brings you into ebay. (Notice that you have a gold, green & red banner on top of your page for the 30% off.) Now you are free to search throughout ebay for "little dot amps" (or anything else) & you'll continue to have that banner on top.

 To use this deal, your purchase has to be "Buy It Now" on ebay & payable by PayPal. It does take 60-70 days to get this money...so they don't get screwed on returns & stuff, but it is completely legit....I have used it for 5 purchases already. Two of these were over 2 months ago & I have received the money for them (deposited into my paypal acct). While the deal is currently @ 30%, it is not guaranteed how long it will stay there. It has fluctuated from 35% 3 months ago to 25% to 8% for awhile, but then it got good again & went back up to 30% 2 weeks ago, then down to 20% for most of last week & now in last couple days back up to 30%....so who knows?

 I love telling people about this deal because I have saved $520 off of purchases that I was going to be making anyway....not too bad
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Except for having to wait for the money, it has been no skin off of my back.


----------



## dantztiludrop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StratCat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Red LED? 

 Did we have a choice of colors? I didn't see anything in the purchase notes (I used ebay)._

 

Yeah, it's true...there isn't anywhere on the site or during your purchase that asks for your choice of LED colors, but David & Sword Yang & Co. are so damn accomodating there @ Little Dot that they'll fulfill certain requests like that.

 I liked the more subdued green power LED that I had put into my MK III, so I asked them to put the green one in the I+ I have coming too.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dantztiludrop* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, it's true...there isn't anywhere on the site or during your purchase that asks for your choice of LED colors, but David & Sword Yang & Co. are so damn accomodating there @ Little Dot that they'll fulfill certain requests like that.

 I liked the more subdued green power LED that I had put into my MK III, so I asked them to put the green one in the I+ I have coming too._

 

Thx.

 I just fired an email off to David. I've got blue in the Zero and I think blue would look pretty sharp with the 1+ black case, too.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Maxvla* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Forgive me for jumping in headlong into this, but can you guide me to where this is being sold and how to obtain it at this price? It may not do what I need for my HD580s, but would certainly be excellent for an undecided mid range Grado I have slated for early next year._

 

What dantztiludrop said in the post directly below yours. In fact dantztiludrop turned me onto this deal.

 Was still 30% as of an hour ago (I know 'cuz I just looked and was *this close* to pulling the trigger on another purchase).


----------



## Seba

Yes I ordered my MKIV SE with red LED back in January and of course I wanted to match the I+ with it's big brother. I can't stand those super bright blue LED's. Fortunately I changed resistors in my Zero, so the LED's are now tolerable.


----------



## Maxvla

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dantztiludrop* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_snip

 I love telling people about this deal because I have saved $520 off of purchases that I was going to be making anyway....not too bad
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Except for having to wait for the money, it has been no skin off of my back._

 

Thanks! I'll check it out.


----------



## HippieTom

just orderet me one too. will try it out with akg k271s.Hope it gets to norway quick


----------



## vovamir

I just received mine yesterday after only 6 days (Canada). Was well packaged and I had no problems with the transaction. David was always quick to respond to emails.

 As for the amp itself, I have not listened to it enough to give you guys a complete opinion, but so far I'm enjoying it with my D2000s. Especially for the price!


----------



## Ghoul

Here's a small update on my I+ venture. I would guess I have somewhere close to 50 hours on it so far. As far as any burn in improvements, I can't tell. Reason being the sound signature that I'm now getting as opposed to my previous set-up is so different. I'm still taken back and having fun putting in different albums and seeing what they sound like. I never thought the higher current output would make that much of a difference. Everything I thought my RS-1's were pre I+ has changed. I loved my rs-1 before and really love them now!!! I guess I still have full burn in to look forward to on both the I+ and RS-1.


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ghoul* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here's a small update on my I+ venture. I would guess I have somewhere close to 50 hours on it so far. As far as any burn in improvements, I can't tell. Reason being the sound signature that I'm now getting as opposed to my previous set-up is so different. I'm still taken back and having fun putting in different albums and seeing what they sound like. I never thought the higher current output would make that much of a difference. Everything I thought my RS-1's were pre I+ has changed. I loved my rs-1 before and really love them now!!! I guess I still have full burn in to look forward to on both the I+ and RS-1._

 

Same here. I don't notice much burn-in either. The I+ sounded good (and different) from the start.


----------



## mapstec

While I still do not have enough time to spend with the I+ I can say a few things for sure:

 For the price the deal is terrific! 
 And even without considering the price the sound quality is outstanding.
 An added bonus is the tweaking possibilities with different tubes.

 For a long time I was searching for an amp that sounded better then my portable Toshiba Gigabeat without costing an arm and a leg, and now I found it!


----------



## Maxvla

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StratCat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What dantztiludrop said in the post directly below yours. In fact dantztiludrop turned me onto this deal.

 Was still 30% as of an hour ago (I know 'cuz I just looked and was *this close* to pulling the trigger on another purchase)._

 

Thanks to both of you. I ended up going with the MKIII though


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Maxvla* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks to both of you. I ended up going with the MKIII though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Understood...I came *this* *close* to getting a MK-V SS amp, seeing as the discount is still currently 30%. That's pretty da** hard to turn down!


----------



## StratCat

Oh great...

 I just checked tracking only to find USPS attempted delivery of my LD 1+ to a San Diego - Cali address today, but the delievery was not successfull.

 So why am I perturbed?

 I live in CHICAGO! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just fired off an email to David.


----------



## Pricklely Peete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StratCat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh great...

 I just checked tracking only to find USPS attempted delivery of my LD 1+ to a San Diego - Cali address today, but the delievery was not successfull.

 So why am I perturbed?

 I live in CHICAGO! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just fired off an email to David._

 

LOL...sorry dude.......talk about getting it wrong by a country mile...wow.

 Chi town is great city .....hopefully David will look after you right away SC.

 Peete.


----------



## toanaldino

I received my I+ last week and I'm enjoy this a lot with my DT-250. 

 However, I have noticed a lot of buzzing coming from the sound card and interference from the PC/Laptop. I'm running the amp from E-mu 0404 USB.

 Does anyone have a solution to this? It also happened when I had the II++.


----------



## AVR4000

This is one of my first posts on Head-Fi. After the very nice recommendations in this thread and in a thread on a swedish forum I have ordered a LittleDot I+ today. My head phones is Grado RS2 and they are used with a Vincent KHV-1pre today. It will be very interesting to run the LD I+ through it´s paces with those phones.


----------



## Seba

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AVR4000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is one of my first posts on Head-Fi. After the very nice recommendations in this thread and in a thread on a swedish forum I have ordered a LittleDot I+ today. My head phones is Grado RS2 and they are used with a Vincent KHV-1pre today. It will be very interesting to run the LD I+ through it´s paces with those phones._

 

You're in for a treat


----------



## taso89

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seba* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're in for a treat 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

x2

 I wish I had this combo but I see RS2 somewhere in my future


----------



## vovamir

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *toanaldino* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received my I+ last week and I'm enjoy this a lot with my DT-250. 

 However, I have noticed a lot of buzzing coming from the sound card and interference from the PC/Laptop. I'm running the amp from E-mu 0404 USB.

 Does anyone have a solution to this? It also happened when I had the II++._

 

Try running the DAC from a different USB port. I had the same problem with my laptop and switching to another USB port eliminated the interference (quiet random transient hissing/clicking). Just an idea.


----------



## Planar_head

Just a question...

 How long does it take for the tubes in this amp to warm up?

 Thanks.


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Planar_head* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a question...

 How long does it take for the tubes in this amp to warm up?

 Thanks._

 

I guess about 5 minutes or so. I always turn on the amp and then wait for ten minutes before I start playing music through it. Once I forgot and started after 5 minutes. No problem.


----------



## toanaldino

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vovamir* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try running the DAC from a different USB port. I had the same problem with my laptop and switching to another USB port eliminated the interference (quiet random transient hissing/clicking). Just an idea._

 

thanks for the suggestion, i tried different port, still noisy and interference.


----------



## Planar_head

Can this amp be used close to routers (about two feet diagonally) without any noise? I read earlier in the thread that someone heard noise through the amp when they held a phone close to it.


----------



## HippieTom

Just got my ld today. have only listned for 1h and im very happy with it so far. and thats with stock tubes. will write more when i get some hours on it


----------



## electropop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vovamir* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try running the DAC from a different USB port. I had the same problem with my laptop and switching to another USB port eliminated the interference (quiet random transient hissing/clicking). Just an idea._

 

Check also that there is no "excessive" upsampling in your player setups.. 
 My current TC Konnekt 6 has an option of disabling windows or asio upsampling. That might help..


----------



## electropop

I think i'll be mailing David too.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I currently have the sr325i's from grado, and am still suffering from slight brightness and from them being too thin 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The punchiness, basspower and slight thickness of this amp might just do the trick 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Kiitos Seba!

 -K


----------



## QRanc

I'm pretty disappointed in this little amp. The headphone jack on my receiver sounds better than the Little Dot. All I've got is the 6JI's, but I'm reluctant to upgrade the tubes. I'm not sure it would be worth the money. I find it lacks any bass whatsoever, as well as making the higher frequencies harsh and fatiguing to the ears.


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *QRanc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm pretty disappointed in this little amp. The headphone jack on my receiver sounds better than the Little Dot. All I've got is the 6JI's, but I'm reluctant to upgrade the tubes. I'm not sure it would be worth the money. I find it lacks any bass whatsoever, as well as making the higher frequencies harsh and fatiguing to the ears._

 

Phones? source?


----------



## HippieTom

Hi guys. Im listening to the I+ right now and its so beautiful sound.BUT i can listen at max volume on the amp and full volume on the computer and its no THAT loud. Its very loud but only half the volume of the nad amp i got. Is it a gain switch inside that could be in wrong position with my k271s?

 (I dont have the esi juli@ yet but its is laiying on the post office waiting for my money to come next week. I now onli have old SB Live.) will the new soundcard give way more volume??


----------



## QRanc

I was too quick to judge. It turns out my reciever was the weak link in the first place (I haven't been happy with it since I bought it). But, running my phono preamp straight into the Little Dot sounds fantastic. Now I definitely wan't to try somr different tubes.

 Current setup: Project Debut III - Rotel RQ-970BX - Little Dot modded with OPA2227 - AKG K701


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HippieTom* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys. Im listening to the I+ right now and its so beautiful sound.BUT i can listen at max volume on the amp and full volume on the computer and its no THAT loud. Its very loud but only half the volume of the nad amp i got. Is it a gain switch inside that could be in wrong position with my k271s?

 (I dont have the esi juli@ yet but its is laiying on the post office waiting for my money to come next week. I now onli have old SB Live.) will the new soundcard give way more volume??_

 


 I believe the stock gain when shipped is 3. You can change it to 7 by removing the gain jumper. See the manual that David sent you.


  Quote:


 I was too quick to judge. It turns out my reciever was the weak link in the first place (I haven't been happy with it since I bought it). But, running my phono preamp straight into the Little Dot sounds fantastic. Now I definitely wan't to try somr different tubes. 
 


 Good to hear Q


----------



## electropop

Okay now guys.. I have been surfing the net to find an email address for little tube customer support.. 

 Is it "little.dot@gmail.com"?

 I sent a message to this address about 24hrs ago and haven't received an awnser. Is it just me being hasty or is something wrong? Cause from what i've read, they answer rather quickly. (Is "they" davidzhezhe?)

 I want one of these amps!

 Thaanks all!

 -K


----------



## HeatFan12

You can reach him by ebay- davidzhezhe....or little-tube.com


----------



## electropop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeatFan12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can reach him by ebay- davidzhezhe....or little-tube.com_

 

I don't want to register to ebay 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I didn't find it anywhere on little tube.. Do i need to register there also?

 Thanks

 -K


----------



## dantztiludrop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *electropop* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay now guys.. I have been surfing the net to find an email address for little tube customer support.. 

 Is it "little.dot@gmail.com"?

 I sent a message to this address about 24hrs ago and haven't received an awnser. Is it just me being hasty or is something wrong? Cause from what i've read, they answer rather quickly. (Is "they" davidzhezhe?)

 I want one of these amps!

 Thaanks all!

 -K_

 


 for customer support, I have used little.tube@gmail.com & I have always had good luck with David answering promptly


----------



## electropop

Oh wait.. it's saturday. Can't expect for miracles to happen


----------



## electropop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dantztiludrop* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_for customer support, I have used little.tube@gmail.com & I have always had good luck with David answering promptly_

 

Little TUBE.. right.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thank you!

 .. Just resent my message 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -K


----------



## electropop

Wait a sec, hope i'm not hogging this thread all to myself 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have something to ask.

 Sound-wise, how do you guys think that the gain setting will affect my, let's say, my low-z grados? Or is it just the sensitivity.. 

 I don't speak theoretically, but practically. In other words: do you hear a difference? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thank you again, for your experience and opinions!

 -K


----------



## HippieTom

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeatFan12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe the stock gain when shipped is 3. You can change it to 7 by removing the gain jumper. See the manual that David sent you.
_

 

Great Thnx Heatfan. Just did so and it powerd up a big bit.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *electropop* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I have something to ask.

 Sound-wise, how do you guys think that the gain setting will affect my, let's say, my low-z grados? Or is it just the sensitivity.. 

 I don't speak theoretically, but practically. In other words: do you hear a difference? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thank you again, for your experience and opinions!

 -K_

 

X2. I have just done itbut im not shure if it sound different. I feel it sounded better before i took out the jumpers but im not shure. Would love to hear what happens when i take the jumpers out. Jumper in = 3,5??? Jumper out = 7???. anybody know what happens?


----------



## malldian

Should I take them out using them with 325is?


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *electropop* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think i'll be mailing David too.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I currently have the sr325i's from grado, and am still suffering from slight brightness and from them being too thin 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The punchiness, basspower and slight thickness of this amp might just do the trick 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Kiitos Seba!

 -K_

 

Quite likely, but then compared to what (i.e. your current amp)?

 But yes, this amp does seem to have some hi-freq roll-off compared to my Zero with L&1364's, and does have a less edgy quality along with a more bass and a generally smoother signature. 

 I too passed on the SR325i's (for my current SR225's) in part due to what I perceived as a bit too much hi-freq shrillness on the 325i's part, and like you, now suspect this amp would likely have helped out since I've had some ear time with it vis` a vis my Zero.

 But while there's more bass quantity, it is also less focused and defined (than my SS Zero).


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *electropop* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh wait.. it's saturday. Can't expect for miracles to happen 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sry...didn't see this when answering the earlier post:

 I've emailed David at this addy litterally at all hours of the day and night and weekends, for maybe, oh, 8 communications (I had some tech questions along with logistics issues). He has never taken more than 4 - 5 hours to reply!

 Either he never sleeps, has some one assist him, or I got lucky! But he has replied quickly over weekends (repeatedly). I see how he got his good rep.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HippieTom* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 [...]

 X2. I have just done itbut im not shure if it sound different. I feel it sounded better before i took out the jumpers but im not shure. Would love to hear what happens when i take the jumpers out. Jumper in = 3,5??? Jumper out = 7???. anybody know what happens?




_

 

What is it exactly you guys think you're hearing?

 I switched my jumper over to hi-gain pretty quickly, and didn't have enough ear-time or burn-in time to really hear a difference, and it's kinda' hard to compare from memory (in my instance) due to the different sound levels I listened at.

 I quess after a little more burn in with the hi-gain setting on my K701's I'll switch it back to lo-gain, and get some ear-time on the amp using my easier-to-drive Grado SR225's and Denon D2000's.

 I'll see what I can hear (if anything) then.


----------



## electropop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *malldian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Should I take them out using them with 325is?_

 

Hehe, probably not. I'd just blow my ears off


----------



## electropop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StratCat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is it exactly you guys think you're hearing?

 I switched my jumper over to hi-gain pretty quickly, and didn't have enough ear-time or burn-in time to really hear a difference, and it's kinda' hard to compare from memory (in my instance) due to the different sound levels I listened at.

 I quess after a little more burn in with the hi-gain setting on my K701's I'll switch it back to lo-gain, and get some ear-time on the amp using my easier-to-drive Grado SR225's and Denon D2000's.

 I'll see what I can hear (if anything) then._

 

I'm not hearing anything, yet. But thank you for your concerns! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just made the order.
 First, it's nice to hear I'm not alone with my "shrill" 325i's 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I'd sure like to hear your comments on that combo. The 325i's are potentially quite amazing phones, just need taming a little bit, sort of a big brother to look after them..
 And yes. Figuring i sent the message at around 10pm gmt+2, and received a message at 11pm, and they're closer to gmt +7. Crazy! ... But I'm loving it. 

 Maybe they've secretly developed a robot capable of delivering humane thoughts and pleasing us. .. Wait.. It's a trap!

 -K


----------



## electropop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StratCat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quite likely, but then compared to what (i.e. your current amp)?

 But yes, this amp does seem to have some hi-freq roll-off compared to my Zero with L&1364's, and does have a less edgy quality along with a more bass and a generally smoother signature. 

 I too passed on the SR325i's (for my current SR225's) in part due to what I perceived as a bit too much hi-freq shrillness on the 325i's part, and like you, now suspect this amp would likely have helped out since I've had some ear time with it vis` a vis my Zero.

 But while there's more bass quantity, it is also less focused and defined (than my SS Zero)._

 

Oh sorry, never mind. My mind's playing tricks on me, or my eyes. Too much computer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I read "I too passed on TO the sr325i's (from my current sr225's)", which doesn't make any sense, but here, people seldom do. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks

 -K


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *electropop* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh sorry, never mind. My mind's playing tricks on me, or my eyes. Too much computer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I read "I too passed on TO the sr325i's (from my current sr225's)", which doesn't make any sense, but here, people seldom do. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks

 -K_

 

Oh, no problem, 'cuz I wasn't the clearest either.

 To clarify: I was fortunate enough to actually have had BOTH the SR225's and SR325i's in-house concurrently for several weeks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But this was before I had the LD 1+, so I was driving them both off my Zero's amp section, and doing A/B comparisons. The Zero is all solid-state - No tubes.

 The 325i's had a very slightly larger soundstage, and tad more bass, but also that bit of shrill that occassionally appeared. They also felt somewhat cumbersome due to thier heavy weight of the earcups. So I kept the SR225's and saved a 100 bux.

 However...after spending some time with this tube hybrid LD 1+, I believe the LD 1+ will likely bring out the best in the SR325i's, or at the least move them along in the right direction.

 I bet somone earlier in the thread already checked in with this combo...think _Wae5_ has SR325i's, IIRC.


----------



## electropop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StratCat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, no problem, 'cuz I wasn't the clearest either.

 To clarify: I was fortunate enough to actually have had BOTH the SR225's and SR325i's in-house concurrently for several weeks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But this was before I had the LD 1+, so I was driving them both off my Zero's amp section, and doing A/B comparisons. The Zero is all solid-state - No tubes.

 The 325i's had a very slightly larger soundstage, and tad more bass, but also that bit of shrill that occassionally appeared. They also felt somewhat cumbersome due to thier heavy weight of the earcups. So I kept the SR225's and saved a 100 bux.

 However...after spending some time with this tube hybrid LD 1+, I believe the LD 1+ will likely bring out the best in the SR325i's, or at the least move them along in the right direction.

 I bet somone earlier in the thread already checked in with this combo...think Wae5 has SR325i's, IIRC._

 

This is what i understood from your previous comment, after thoroughly reading it again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. My current portable/only amp Voyager already does them justice, giving them a bit warmth and dynamics. Also smoothing the high-section.

 And yes, I am hoping this would happen. Plus I have the gs1000 pads on them now, which boost the soundstage quite nicely, give better bass (at least in quantity), and take the sound out of your head. This makes them rather pleasant, though i stumbled upon a hint of sibilance. 
 Oh, and are tons more comfortable now. 

 But let's hope for the best 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW check my thread!
 Have you heard or read anything of this yet?

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f46/tr...-china-375529/

 -K


----------



## wae5

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StratCat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, no problem, 'cuz I wasn't the clearest either.

 To clarify: I was fortunate enough to actually have had BOTH the SR225's and SR325i's in-house concurrently for several weeks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But this was before I had the LD 1+, so I was driving them both off my Zero's amp section, and doing A/B comparisons. The Zero is all solid-state - No tubes.

 The 325i's had a very slightly larger soundstage, and tad more bass, but also that bit of shrill that occassionally appeared. They also felt somewhat cumbersome due to thier heavy weight of the earcups. So I kept the SR225's and saved a 100 bux.

 However...after spending some time with this tube hybrid LD 1+, I believe the LD 1+ will likely bring out the best in the SR325i's, or at the least move them along in the right direction.

 I bet somone earlier in the thread already checked in with this combo...think Wae5 has SR325i's, IIRC._

 

It's 4 AM here in rural SF and you can imagine my surprise when I stumbled on my name in your post and you may be equally surprised to know I'm listening to the SR325i with the 1+ and this combo sounds incredibly good -so good in fact, it makes me wonder what people are expecting when they ask which $750 amps go good with Grados? Have you heard the LD 1+? Just what do you think that extra $641 is going to get you? In any case I think the SR325i and 1+ is an exciting and fun combination but if you’re looking for cool neutrality you should be looking elsewhere.


----------



## electropop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wae5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's 4 AM here in rural SF and you can imagine my surprise when I stumbled on my name in your post and you may be equally surprised to know I'm listening to the SR325i with the 1+ and this combo sounds incredibly good -so good in fact, it makes me wonder what people are expecting when they ask which $750 amps go good with Grados? Have you heard the LD 1+? Just what do you think that extra $641 is going to get you? In any case I think the SR325i and 1+ is an exciting and fun combination but if you’re looking for cool neutrality you should be looking elsewhere._

 

Coolness+neutrality = boring 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Good to hear your impressions! Now I can't wait for my I+!

 My first experience with an LD-amp..

 Thanks

 -K


----------



## Ghoul

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wae5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's 4 AM here in rural SF and you can imagine my surprise when I stumbled on my name in your post and you may be equally surprised to know I'm listening to the SR325i with the 1+ and this combo sounds incredibly good -so good in fact, it makes me wonder what people are expecting when they ask which $750 amps go good with Grados? Have you heard the LD 1+? Just what do you think that extra $641 is going to get you? In any case I think the SR325i and 1+ is an exciting and fun combination but if you’re looking for cool neutrality you should be looking elsewhere._

 

I've been asking myself the same thing since I got my I+. I'm fairly sure the more expensive amps will perform better than the I+. How much more and will I be able to discern it? With my current set-up would I benefit? Would I have to upgrade my source and cables? It's these kinds of questions that make me shudder about an upgrade. I'm extremely happy with my current set-up and hope to stay here for awhile.....until curiosity grabs hold of course.


----------



## Seba

Don't use high gain with Grado's because the volume pot will be SO sensitive and you can only use a very small portion or you'll blow your ears.

 I compared my I+ to Yamamoto HA-02 and preferred Little Dot. Yamamoto did have more dynamic sound but it made highs sound little fussy and distorted which isn't good with my RS-1's.


----------



## HippieTom

would this be good with any grado? does it handle all? 

 EDIT: Im thinking of buying the MS-Pro in the future for involving electronica. and i want to try a top end if im going for them but its very big diffrence in $$$ between amp and phones. But if the I+ does the job amp its just great. couse its a great little amp. Is it a overkill with ms-pro on I+?

 sorry for posting many diffrent questions but i need to get some clairity in the head-fi world. if thats possible


----------



## wae5

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HippieTom* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_would this be good with any grado? does it handle all? 

 EDIT: Im thinking of buying the MS-Pro in the future for involving electronica. and i want to try a top end if im going for them but its very big diffrence in $$$ between amp and phones. But if the I+ does the job amp its just great. couse its a great little amp. Is it a overkill with ms-pro on I+?

 sorry for posting many diffrent questions but i need to get some clairity in the head-fi world. if thats possible
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

For a mere $109 you can have the pleasure of answering your own questions. The LD 1+ is the kind of amp that will always be useful and since some amps have a problem with low impedance phones like Grados it's nice to know you solved this problem for almost no money. You may want to check out what Seba said (BTW, the Yamamoto costs about $1K): "I compared my I+ to Yamamoto HA-02 and preferred Little Dot. Yamamoto did have more dynamic sound but it made highs sound little fussy and distorted which isn't good with my RS-1's."


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wae5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's 4 AM here in rural SF and you can imagine my surprise when I stumbled on my name in your post and you may be equally surprised to know I'm listening to the SR325i with the 1+ and this combo sounds incredibly good -so good in fact, it makes me wonder what people are expecting when they ask which $750 amps go good with Grados? Have you heard the LD 1+? Just what do you think that extra $641 is going to get you? In any case I think the SR325i and 1+ is an exciting and fun combination but if you’re looking for cool neutrality you should be looking elsewhere._

 

Hah!

 Nothing quite like mellowing out in the dark wee hours to some exquisite small ensemble strings accompanied by the gentle glow of tubes for ambience, eh?:
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This little sucker is worth the ca$h for the cachet and aesthetics factor alone! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Still needs more pwr IMHO tho, to really drive the K701's to the levels I'd like, along with the adequate pwr reserve I'd like to see. But within it's performance envelope, it's a nice change from the all SS Zero's HP amp section. And definitely more than adequate with the Denon D2000's and SR225's (but I need much more ear-time with these latter two).

 Catch ya' on the rebound!


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ghoul* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been asking myself the same thing since I got my I+. I'm fairly sure the more expensive amps will perform better than the I+. How much more and will I be able to discern it? With my current set-up would I benefit? Would I have to upgrade my source and cables? It's these kinds of questions that make me shudder about an upgrade. *I'm extremely happy with my current set-up and hope to stay here for awhile.....until curiosity grabs hold of course.*_

 

_* bolding for effect - mine_

 Hah!

 Famous last words!

 (around here, anyway)


----------



## eomcall

I ordered an LD1+. Looking forward to pairing it with my Grado 60s.

 This will be my first tube purchase. I got the stock 6Jl. Will try rolling in the future.


----------



## bigjim82

Just ordered my LDI+ tonight. Three minutes later I received an email from David asking if I still like the LDII++ I got a year ago and thanking me for my order (no canned reply). That is the kind of personal touch and service that will keep me coming back. 

 Got a few tubes to roll, next up - opamps.


----------



## TFox

I just received my I+ this afternoon.

 It's a strange little beast so far... With the SR60's, the soundstage is wider, to the point where some music (especially the more compressed variety) just gets ridiculous. Count punk rock out, so far.

 I put the 1984 (remaster?) version of Bob Marley's _Is This Love_ through it, and it didn't really do it justice... there were some really funky sounding channel balance phenomena, and the bass notes kind of died. 

 I'm listening to Abbey Road currently, and the bass seems to be intact but not as tight as on my solid state system. Separation sure sounds good, though, and it's neat to be able to tell when I'm getting a call before the phone rings.

 Is this something that changes during the burn-in process, or is this just the nature of the beast?

 My signal chain: FLAC -> SB Audigy 2 value (master vol. ~85%) -> run of the mill RCA cable -> Hafler 915 SS component preamp-> (rec. out to) another typical RCA cable -> LD I+


----------



## Planar_head

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TFox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My signal chain: FLAC -> SB Audigy 2 value (master vol. ~85%) -> run of the mill RCA cable -> Hafler 915 SS component preamp-> (rec. out to) another typical RCA cable -> LD I+_

 

I'm assuming that the master volume you're refering to is the computer volume for the Audigy soundcard? I find the master volume on my X-Fi to be a piece of junk, so I usually leave it at 100%.

 I can hear when I accidently leave that volume at 80% - the sound quality decreases by quite a bit.


----------



## TFox

Yeah, the windows master volume. I don't know if it's all in my head, but it sounded to me that if I backed it down just a little, it cleaned up a bit. 

 I've often wanted to compare line levels, but never really got around to it - now that I think of it, it could be fairly easy with my friend's multimeter, a cd with a sinewave, and the identical source on the computer. 

 I just wish they'd make a soundcard with a true line level output. That would make everything so much easier.


----------



## electropop

If this is troubling you guys, why not try an external sound card with a line out, and connecting it to Foobar via ASIO? This bypasses the windows sound scheme.. I think..


----------



## Morb

Ok, looking at this LD I+ as well... will these work ok with my ATH-A900? But what if i upgrade my cans to, let's say a senn HD650, then this amp will not be usefull anymore?

 On a sidenote, do these LD I+ glow as well such as the MKIII or LD MKII?


----------



## TFox

I snapped a few pictures of mine in different light conditions. 

 I don't know if it's as bright as the MKIII, but I will say that the picture I've seen (on 'The Zen of Photography' blog) looks like a relatively long exposure, which may exaggerate how bright the tubes are. I compensated the first exposure (the one with available light) by a half-stop to avoid this and get a better shutter speed. The other two are normal exposure with an incandescent lamp on.

 From my guitar amp experience, these are decently bright. They won't light your desk up in the dark, but they're noticeable even in a lit room.


----------



## TFox

Ok, after some comparison... something is off. I pushed in the mono button on my FM receiver. The left channel and the right channel are not on the same page here. The left channel seems quieter and doesn't seem to be putting out the highs like the right channel. At first I thought I might have some uneven hearing loss, but I flipped the phones around and it went the other way. Also, when turning the volume knob up from zero, the left channel ducks out for a little bit before coming back up to (not quite) even.

 Has anyone else experienced this? It's not the source... I plugged it into my other pre and that one puts it in the middle of the head where it should be.

 Edit: switched the tubes around. Amplitude phenomena have not switched around.

 I recorded some output from the amp, which confirms the amplitude imbalance favoring the right side. While playing white noise, the spectral view in Audition shows different 'hot' artifacts on the different channels, and the VU's show an uneven signal (although I suspect this is characteristic of all tube stuff). A straight test tone shows the amplitude imbalance. The After I get back from class tonight and get a test done, I'm going to put a sine sweep through it and see how they differ. I'll compile all the tests into a single flac file (so that you can see the different conditions in the spectral view without distortion) and host it on my webspace.


----------



## malldian

I would let David know, you might have a bad unit. His customer service is great so I wouldn't worry.


----------



## TFox

Wow, Califon, eh? When I'm not at school, I live right over in Long Valley 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll be emailing him shortly. I'll still put up that file later in case anybody wants a listen.


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Morb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, looking at this LD I+ as well... will these work ok with my ATH-A900? But what if i upgrade my cans to, let's say a senn HD650, then this amp will not be usefull anymore?

 On a sidenote, do these LD I+ glow as well such as the MKIII or LD MKII?_

 

It works well with low impedance cans. And although it wouldn't be my first choice for a HD650, it drives my HD600 decently. Decent enough to be able to save up for a bigger amp while listening to the LD I+.

 Not sure about the glowing, but mine doesn't glow that much.


----------



## Morb

tnx for those pics Tfox, i just bought one


----------



## Tobias Hobson

OK I just got my 1+ and have a n00b question. Why does the manual say not to unplug your headphones while the amp is on? Is that to protect the amp, phones or both?


----------



## tako_tsubo

Hope to get my LDI+ soon also. Having a really good experience with a Dared mp5...another hybrid. How easy is it to change jumpers? It seems reading up on the LD mkIII site that many stick with the 5654 tube family...EF95, due to the hassle of jumper changes.
 Does it hold tru for the LDI+ that if you want a warmer sound than the EF95 tube, then you would go to the EF92tube? 
 Also it seemed that the EF91 tube, although sounding good, had problems with distorsion in higher volumes in the LD mkIII? any one try these diff tubes yet?


----------



## taso89

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tobias Hobson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK I just got my 1+ and have a n00b question. Why does the manual say not to unplug your headphones while the amp is on? Is that to protect the amp, phones or both?_

 

Amp. I believe it has something to do with the tubes and them needing resistance (headphones) in order to function properly. I don't know, I've quickly swapped headphones with amp on without any problems.


----------



## JamesL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Tobias Hobson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK I just got my 1+ and have a n00b question. Why does the manual say not to unplug your headphones while the amp is on? Is that to protect the amp, phones or both?_

 

It's because when you plug or unplug a TRS plug into an amp, it shorts the ground channel to the right channel which may cause problems.


----------



## taso89

Tfox, 

 I've had the sensation of slight (~8%) channel imbalance towards the right channel with this amp. It's a great amp otherwise but it does bother me from time to time. Sine waves led me to about a ~8% decrease in the right channel. Now everything sounds fine.


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tfox, 

 I've had the sensation of slight (~8%) channel imbalance towards the right channel with this amp. It's a great amp otherwise but it does bother me from time to time. Sine waves led me to about a ~8% decrease in the right channel. Now everything sounds fine._

 

It's most likely that the imbalance comes from mismatched tubes, where did you get the Sylvania Gold 408A from?


----------



## TFox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taso89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Amp. I believe it has something to do with the tubes and them needing resistance (headphones) in order to function properly. I don't know, I've quickly swapped headphones with amp on without any problems._

 

I think this explanation would apply more to hifi tube amps, or perhaps guitar tube amps - I know that if you run them without a load, they can burn out the output transformer. With the LD's relatively low impedance loads and solid state output section, I guess it doesn't affect it, but JamesL's above response probably holds true.


  Quote:


 I've had the sensation of slight (~8%) channel imbalance towards the right channel with this amp. It's a great amp otherwise but it does bother me from time to time. Sine waves led me to about a ~8% decrease in the right channel. Now everything sounds fine. 
 

I've been playing around with it for a while now, and I've come to a point where I think it might be something other than (or more than just) a volume difference - David from Little Tube asked me to retry my tests connected directly to the source (and to make sure the source was at line level). With the help of my friend's multimeter, I got my soundcard's headphone output to .3V playing back a generated sinewave @ 0dB, 440Hz. That corresponds to approximately 60% on the master volume, although I don't know how much this matters. He remarked that the potentiometer was most balanced at the halfway mark, and I confirmed this while monitoring the levels. Unfortunately, the strange sound persists, and having heard it some more, I would say it sounds as if the channels are partially out of phase with each other, and that there could be an uneven frequency response across the two channels. 

 In case anybody's curious as to what I hear, here's a sample of what's happening to a signal. This is a short clip of the monophonic version of the Beach Boys song _Don't Talk_, off the album Pet Sounds. 

Original mono clip

Through I+

 Despite the real or perceived problems I have, I have nothing but good things to say about Little Tube's customer service so far. Every email I sent is answered in less than a day, and it's clear that they make their customers' satisfaction a top priority.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JamesL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's because when you plug or unplug a TRS plug into an amp, it shorts the ground channel to the right channel which may cause problems._

 

Agreed.

 Standard boilerplate warning for HP jacked equiptment. Though I've sometimes seen the warning amended to _"do not insert or remove the plug at high/loud levels"_.

 (which I've often disregarded with impunity to no ill effect, but I'm trying to reform)


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hope to get my LDI+ soon also. Having a really good experience with a Dared mp5...another hybrid. How easy is it to change jumpers? It seems reading up on the LD mkIII site that many stick with the 5654 tube family...EF95, due to the hassle of jumper changes.
 Does it hold tru for the LDI+ that if you want a warmer sound than the EF95 tube, then you would go to the EF92tube? 
 Also it seemed that the EF91 tube, although sounding good, had problems with distorsion in higher volumes in the LD mkIII? any one try these diff tubes yet?_

 

Hey Tako

 The jumpers are easy to set. Remove the screws of the bottom plate of the amp (4) and the plate just comes off then it goes right back in place. Because of how easy it is, it's difficult to stay just with one family of tubes. I use the Mullard EF91s a lot and love the sound. Never had any distortion problems at all. Right now I have some UE EF92s in there and the sound is nice and warm with nice extension.

 BTW-----Love the PRO2500s...Listening right now with the I+...Thanks for your help on that.....


----------



## Tobias Hobson

OK thanks guys! I was curious about that.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeatFan12* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Tako

 The jumpers are easy to set. Remove the screws of the bottom plate of the amp (4) and the plate just comes off then it goes right back in place. Because of how easy it is, it's difficult to stay just with one family of tubes. I use the Mullard EF91s a lot and love the sound. Never had any distortion problems at all. Right now I have some UE EF92s in there and the sound is nice and warm with nice extension.

 BTW-----Love the PRO2500s...Listening right now with the I+...Thanks for your help on that.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






Oh my wallet thanks you for that info. A tube from each family sounds like fun! and I love the Mullard sound sig. 

 Glad that you like the 2500...just hate that burn-in time


----------



## electropop

Hi all! I just received mine this morning on second delivery attempt. Doorbell rang at 7:30am 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I started listening to it immediately with my 325i's and i can already see the potential, even without any burn-in. Or course they're not that refined yet, but they did do what i was hoping for. Bass extension/power, fluidness, extra-kick and what even surprised me, is that it's very accurate in details also, at least with my 325i's. Now time to start burn-in sessions with the 6J1's. I also have an extra set of WE408's. Will post impressions also after thorough listening and burn-in.
 With very low volume, I can hear the imbalance. So low though that it doesn't matter.

 Thank you all for your experiments and comments. I'm off to do some jamming.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -K


----------



## DarKu

i also have an SR325i and i am very interested in this amp.
 I want to hear your further impresions with Sr325i, do you had other amps before this?
 thanks in advance


----------



## malldian

Compared to the 336i is the weakness of bass response but that isn't a fair comparison. I will try to do a write up later.


----------



## electropop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DarKu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i also have an SR325i and i am very interested in this amp.
 I want to hear your further impresions with Sr325i, do you had other amps before this?
 thanks in advance_

 

Hi! So far I'm liking it. Even after 5 hrs of burn-in i can hear the sound already settling in. Comparing it to my Graham Slee Voyager, it's definitely more punchy but not as refined. The Voyager sounds smoother, and actually warmer too. This shows especially in the midrange, it doesn't try to fight itself forth but just is. I+ has more detail and a tad more fatiguing treble. (may be the kick). It almost involves you physically. Both sound great with the 325i's. I've tried to find a good amp to drive these phones to their potential, and thank goodness i went for these two 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Yes, the Voyager is definitely more balanced. I+ is fun but almost out of control, if i can say that..
 I've yet to try the other set of tubes (WE408). Maybe they'll smooth the sound a little. 
 On the other hand, the I+ seems more transparent. 

 ... Back to listening..

 -K


----------



## electropop

So far i've only listened to my music with 325i's from external soundcards, and a few solid-state amps. I'm very pleased with these two amps. It's really completely different, even my mom could tell the differences with these and the soundcards. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A newbie expression I'm sure, but still in awe..
 Steely Dan - Negative Girl, I didn't know those low bass lines existed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Tone is nice, though overall the I+ sounds a little drier than the voyager..

 -K


----------



## TFox

Well, now somehow after a few 6 hour burn in sessions, my I+ has finally bit it. Output section just does not work - the LED will flicker and the headphones pop when turning it on or off. The tubes still glow though. I don't know what's wrong with it, but I doubt it's going to resolve itself on its own or through any simple fix.


----------



## sunseeker888

If the power supply diodes/rectification is bad it can cause the LED to flicker like crazy.


----------



## bigjim82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TFox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, now somehow after a few 6 hour burn in sessions, my I+ has finally bit it. Output section just does not work - the LED will flicker and the headphones pop when turning it on or off. The tubes still glow though. I don't know what's wrong with it, but I doubt it's going to resolve itself on its own or through any simple fix._

 

The simplest things to check can sometimes be the answer. I had some trouble with my LDI+ at first. It turned out to be dirty tube pins and a misaligned jumper (I was tube rolling). I would first check the power cord to see if it is secured (it happens) then open up the amp and double check the switches and jumpers - flip the switches back and forth to the required setting and remove and reinstall the jumpers if applicable. If you are using NOS tubes or tubes that have been sitting around for awhile they may need cleaning. Otherwise, email David at Little Dot. He is usually very responsive and helpful.


----------



## TFox

Yep, I've been back and forth emailing for a while. Checked through the jumper settings (picture attached); they're all at default with the stock tubes. Power plug's all the way in, I've cleaned the pins of, and have reseated the tubes a few times. This is with a brand new unit that sounded strange from the get-go. I should probably make a new thread, the way I'm narrating the problems I'm having...

 I'm just waiting on David's response - he's been helpful so far, but unfortunately I think I'm going to have to return it for service. The defect/return rate on these are apparently very low, so I guess I'm just unlucky.


----------



## TheMarchingMule

Yah, my first LD I+ had something weird happened to it a few weeks in; the tubes glowed, but the sound on the left side crackled and died. Something inside the unit liked to cause the havoc, so I sent mine away to CO (thankfully not China), and within a week I got a new unit, and this baby I'm listening through right now.


----------



## bigjim82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TFox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yep, I've been back and forth emailing for a while. Checked through the jumper settings (picture attached); they're all at default with the stock tubes. Power plug's all the way in, I've cleaned the pins of, and have reseated the tubes a few times. This is with a brand new unit that sounded strange from the get-go. I should probably make a new thread, the way I'm narrating the problems I'm having...

 I'm just waiting on David's response - he's been helpful so far, but unfortunately I think I'm going to have to return it for service. The defect/return rate on these are apparently very low, so I guess I'm just unlucky._

 

Sorry you are having so much trouble with your amp -but don't give up on it. I don't have any experience with high end amps, but this has really been a step up from my LDII++ when used with my low impedance cans (MS2I). I've rolled in some fully burned in Ediswan EF92 and Mullard CV131's that I had been using in my LDII++, but the best sounding tubes I've used are the straight out of the box GE 408A's I got for a buck a piece. A lot more detail and bass impact than I had with the LDII++. Hope you get the problem resolved soon.


----------



## TFox

I'm a pretty patient guy, so it's not a huge deal. Seems like all my other stuff is falling apart around me anyway 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll definitely check out those 408a's when I get it back. They look like a good value.


----------



## googan

I just got my I+ and it sounds amazing with my recabled d1001s. Even without burnin. Really happy right now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Using GE 408A tubes btw.


----------



## electropop

I guess i need to change my tubes.. The 6J1's now sound more refined and are still kicking. But a mellow dryness and fatiguing treble still disturb me a little.. 
 Guess I should start rolling.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I have a set of WE408A's waiting..

 -K


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *electropop* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So far i've only listened to my music with 325i's from external soundcards, and a few solid-state amps. I'm very pleased with these two amps. It's really completely different, even my mom could tell the differences with these and the soundcards. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A newbie expression I'm sure, but still in awe..
 Steely Dan - Negative Girl, I didn't know those low bass lines existed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Tone is nice, though overall the I+ sounds a little drier than the voyager..

 -K_

 

Mmm, dryer than the voyager? I also have a voyager, but I wouldn't say the LDI+ is dryer than the voyager. It's a completely different sound sig, particularly with regard to the bass. The voyager has a wonderfully refined, rounded and deep bass (and the solo even more). And while I like the LDI+ bass, it isn't in the same league really. 

 But then, maybe this is something experienced in particular with Grado 'phones. Never tried them, so wouldn't know.


----------



## electropop

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *REB* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mmm, dryer than the voyager? I also have a voyager, but I wouldn't say the LDI+ is dryer than the voyager. It's a completely different sound sig, particularly with regard to the bass. The voyager has a wonderfully refined, rounded and deep bass (and the solo even more). And while I like the LDI+ bass, it isn't in the same league really. 

 But then, maybe this is something experienced in particular with Grado 'phones. Never tried them, so wouldn't know._

 

Yeah? Interesting. Done most of the testing with the grados. As you mention, the bass in the voyager is deep, slightly round and incredibly smooth. The "smoothness" carries to the mid sections and all the way to the treble. The LD I+ sounds a bit harsh. I experience it as dry, lacking that "honey", though it does somehow "round the edges" the same way the voyager does.. But still.. I'm not sure what to call that.. I'm receiving my AD2000's next week and will surely do the comparison again. Until then, i have no access to my amp.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for reply.


----------



## darkswordsman17

I finally got mine on Thursday (I've been meaning to get one for a while now, only finally put the order in last week, shipping was quick). Listened to it for a few hours so far. I'm gonna give it more time, but its actually gotten a bit worse, it was smoother sounding right outta the box.

 It easily bests the headphone out of the E-MU 0404 USB, and also is better than the jack on my Sony CD player (which has fared quite well and still does, but since its being fed from the CD player's DAC it loses out). Bass is definitely pronounced. I think it does a good job of showing you your source, which is good and bad (good source = good, bad source = bad). Soundstage is definitely bigger, but I'm not sure I like that. Its a little too open now, and vocals seem a little recessed. Separation is better.

 Oh, this is with my modded W1000s. It definitely is powering them well, though it doesn't give you much play in the volume area.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *darkswordsman17* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bass is definitely pronounced._

 

 This was my initial impression as well (stock base 6J1 tubes + stock MC33078 op-amp). The bass did differentiate and slightly articulate (very slightly) somewhat over the next several days of burn-in, but the overall SQ did not change save for a bit more seperation and air. Possibly the bass seems more pronounced due to the relatively muted mids, upper mids, and rolled-off highs. FWIW, the bass response is definitely very dependant on op-amp selection and can be changed by rolling to another op-amp. Same goes for mids and highs.

  Quote:


 Oh, this is with my modded W1000s. It definitely is powering them well, though it doesn't give you much play in the volume area. 
 

You are aware the LD 1+ ships with the gain at 3.5X and can be set to 7X via an internal switch, right? (Hope I didn't insult your intelligence)


----------



## darkswordsman17

I'll be doing tube/opamp rolling, although not a whole lot. I'd like to warm things up a bit.

 Yeah, I knew about the gain (no offense taken). What I meant is on low gain 20 on the volume knob is beyond comfort with every source I've tried. 15 is about as high as I can go, so there is a lot of room left.


----------



## electropop

Oh Damn!

 Just swapped in my WE408A's, (this amp is my first tube-experience) and whoa! It really makes a difference. No placebo here.. The amp is tons more refined now, detailed (though the feeling of fatigue disappeared), Norah Jones' vocals just completely opened up. The emphasis which with the 6J1's seemed to be on bass and highs, has turned around and is now in the mids. This may also be that I just got used to the 6j1's and is actually just more neutral now. Dunno.

 Bass power turned down a notch, but that doesn't bother me. The amp still retains it's ability to "physically seduce" you. I hope the sound remains like this. There is no burn-time of what i know with the 408s. 

 Thanks

 -K


----------



## chews89

Hey guys, i finally ordered my LDI+ from david and should arrive in 1+ weeks. YES, finally a proper amp (other than fiio).

 Do you guys seriously recommend tube rolling? Or would just using those stock tubes satisfy me? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I was thinking maybe it would..since i have never experienced an amp other than my fiio..


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chews89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, i finally ordered my LDI+ from david and should arrive in 1+ weeks. YES, finally a proper amp (other than fiio).

 Do you guys seriously recommend tube rolling? Or would just using those stock tubes satisfy me? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was thinking maybe it would..since i have never experienced an amp other than my fiio.._

 

I'd recommend it! The stock tubes will satisfy you... for a while and then you'll want to know if you can get better sound. And you'll be curious what we're talking about... So get out your wallet and order some Sylvania Gold Brand 408a tubes! You know you want to!


----------



## crzystng

I've only had mine going for a few hours now and am loving it coupled with the "upgraded" Zero.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chews89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, i finally ordered my LDI+ from david and should arrive in 1+ weeks. YES, finally a proper amp (other than fiio).

 Do you guys seriously recommend tube rolling? Or would just using those stock tubes satisfy me? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was thinking maybe it would..since i have never experienced an amp other than my fiio.._

 

You can roll the op-amp too. Often cheaper, and they also have a large impact on SQ. It may lack the panache` of tube rolling and the "treasure hunter" aspects tho! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There's also a dedicated tube and op-amp rolling thread for the LD 1+ if you're interested: Little Dot I+ Tube Rolling


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *crzystng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've only had mine going for a few hours now and am loving it coupled with the "upgraded" Zero._

 

Same here, and I think it's a great entry-level or starving-student combo. And plenty of room for tweaking with good Headfi community support, too.


----------



## Akselpaksel

Got mine today!
 Came with a UK plowercord, so i'll have to go out and get a new cord tomorrow. Really looking forward to hearing it in action.


----------



## Morb

received mine today too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 so far i'm loving it.. hooked it up to my x-fi + ath-a900... i must say i'm happy now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I know the x-fi ain't that great... but i think they just do fine... or am i wrong?

 btw, i have the chance to buy the following:

 Russian 6J1
 the Mullard EF92
 two Opamps (Opa 2134 + LM4562NA

 Are these ok and should i go for it? 

 rgds,

 Kenny

 EDIT: btw, are the jumper settings correct by default for the default tubes?


----------



## Mike_TNT

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Morb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_received mine today too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 so far i'm loving it.. hooked it up to my x-fi + ath-a900... i must say i'm happy now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I know the x-fi ain't that great... but i think they just do fine... or am i wrong?

 btw, i have the chance to buy the following:

 Russian 6J1
 the Mullard EF92
 two Opamps (Opa 2134 + LM4562NA

 Are these ok and should i go for it? 

 rgds,

 Kenny

 EDIT: btw, are the jumper settings correct by default for the default tubes?_

 

I got mine a few days ago and I'm also using it with the a900. The soundstage is fantastic. They used to be my games/movies phones but they're back into my music rig thanks to the I+. I'm using a pair of Siemens 6ak5w and they really bring out the vocals. 


 It doesn't hurt to check the jumper settings. Just unscrew the 4 bottom screws and the bottom cover should come off easily.


----------



## Trapper32

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Morb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_received mine today too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 so far i'm loving it.. hooked it up to my x-fi + ath-a900... i must say i'm happy now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I know the x-fi ain't that great... but i think they just do fine... or am i wrong?

 btw, i have the chance to buy the following:

 Russian 6J1
 the Mullard EF92
 two Opamps (Opa 2134 + LM4562NA

 Are these ok and should i go for it? 

 rgds,

 Kenny

 EDIT: btw, are the jumper settings correct by default for the default tubes?_

 

Those will work fine although you'll have to change the jumper settings for the Mullard EF92 ...There are a few variants of the Mullard EF92 (big shield small shield etc) but I have a few and they seem identical to my Bugle Boys. They're a very nice tube IMO.. Most ppl here have purchased the Russian tubes with the suffix EV or EB(ruggedized version) and they seem to like them alot ...There's a set of 10 6J1-EV tubes on eBay right now for $22 including shipping....

 Those two opamps will get u started nicely 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 into opamp rolling..

 Those jumper settings SHOULD be set properly for the tubes that came with your amp but it never hurts to double check...


----------



## Trapper32

My Grado 225s were sitting unused on the shelf after being usurped by the Senn 580 and the AKG 501 but now they are really holding their own with the help of the 1+. Great synergy with low impedance phones for sure!!


----------



## electropop

Yes fantastic synergy with low impedance phones (Grados wow!), except my new ad2000s.. These phones sound better from my two external sound-cards..


----------



## Akselpaksel

Hello again
 Anyone know how much burn-in is recommended?


----------



## crzystng

I've heard in the ballpark of 100 hours for the LD I+


----------



## blynch1

Anyone try this with D2000? If so does it have a good synergy with them?

 Also, can can anyone give me a comparison of the I+ with the starving student and/or the millet max.


----------



## crzystng

I have the LD I+ however it isn't even close to being burned in. I only have ~7 hours on the amps. To me the I+ displays a better/stronger power bandwidth and has a bit more clarity and depth than the upgraded Zero with the same amount of play time. The two together are a pretty good and relatively cheap combo that are worth their weight in gold IMO.


----------



## Akselpaksel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *crzystng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've heard in the ballpark of 100 hours for the LD I+_

 

Allright, thanks!


----------



## crzystng

While the manual doesn't give any specific time frames for burn in they do suggest NOT doing a continuous 24 hour burn. It states that for every 6-8 hours you should let the tubes cool for a good 30 minutes. Also the volume should be slightly higher than listening volume.


----------



## StratCat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *crzystng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've heard in the ballpark of 100 hours for the LD I+_

 

With my K701's my LD 1+ seemed to really come alive around 15-20 hrs in. Even just 6-8 hrs sounded better than when first firing her up. Changes after 15-20 hrs seemed minimal, if any. I had maybe 50 - 75 hrs when I changed op-amps, so the sound-sig shifted completely and there's no way to ascertain any further burn-in changes now (at maybe 100 hrs).

 This was with the stock base model 6JI tube + MC33078 op-amp.


----------



## imp0ssibled

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blynch1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone try this with D2000? If so does it have a good synergy with them?

 Also, can can anyone give me a comparison of the I+ with the starving student and/or the millet max._

 

interested to know too~


----------



## ry_goody

My LD I+ just arrived here.

 Running it with an emu1212m and k701's.

 I don't wanna say too much cause it's only been running for 10 minutes. But definanetly, for the price you really can't go wrong. Definanetly a top contender for sub 200 amp even on the k701.

 Very detailed, with a good amount of spaciousness to it too. I really like it's just general feel with the k701.

 I might say that, with the k701 it could have a little more extension both top and low end. The mid seems a little more pronounced than I'm used to. But that could be fixed with tube rolling or burn in.


----------



## HeatFan12

^^^ Curious to know what gain setting you are using with the 701s?


----------



## chews89

Hey fellow LDI+ owners 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I recevied my LDI+ sometime last week and recently it has been acting up and very faint crackles can be heard when i'm listening to my music. 

 This is probably due to some oxidation occuring at the pins of the tubes right? But what should i use to clean them? I've shopped around and can't find any "de-oxidising cleaners". Has anyone heard of WD-40? It's used to ease squeaking of door hinges and stuff. So would they be effective? Or are they totaly inappropriate?


----------



## 928GTS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chews89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey fellow LDI+ owners 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I recevied my LDI+ sometime last week and recently it has been acting up and very faint crackles can be heard when i'm listening to my music. 

 This is probably due to some oxidation occuring at the pins of the tubes right? But what should i use to clean them? I've shopped around and can't find any "de-oxidising cleaners". Has anyone heard of WD-40? It's used to ease squeaking of door hinges and stuff. So would they be effective? Or are they totaly inappropriate?_

 

WD40 is a lubricant,not a deoxidizing agent. It will leave a residue on the pins and will not help its conductive qualities.


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

Try some isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol), often times it's enough to clean the pins.


----------



## StratCat

No WD40!

 It has a lube in it as explained.

 Use iso alky, as mentioned, on a cotton tip from around the house for a quick fix, or commercial products known as "contact cleaners" from electronics supply houses.


----------



## emurray

I had luck deoxidizing my vintage turtable cartridge contacts using a q-tip and some isopropyl. You might try De-Oxit, which is a deoxidizing agent that can be found fairly easily. I've seen it at Radio Shack, Best Buy, Fry's, etc...

DeoxITÂ®


----------



## chews89

Whoa, thanks guys for the much needed help.

 My mum was like "WD40! Try it!" and i was like err..i think i should ask some people first(head-fiers)

 so rubbing alcohol it is!


----------



## TFox

Man, I have the worst damn luck...

 So I got a replacement amp while I was home on break, and just got it up and running tonight. First thing I notice is that there's a constant-level hum in the right channel, but it's not too loud. I figure it might be a ground loop or something that I can diagnose myself. Music sounds great, and there's no channel imbalance. 

 So I leave it on for an hour or two (it's 3am now, I had it on since 12:30 when I first turned it on) while I'm visiting a friend's room. I come back to find that not only is it humming on both channels, but the LED is off and it's *dead* again. I can't even believe it. Do I have killer power or something? What in the world is happening with this amp?


----------



## imp0ssibled

hi, would the LD1+ be able to drive the beyer dt150 decently, not fantastically, but at least decently? thx


----------



## Ductapemaster

Just got my LD I+ in the mail today! Sounds awesome so far and I can't wait to hear it after its been fully burned in. 

 Disclaimer: The amp is part of my first "high quality" audio system, (in my signature), so I'm new to all of this stuff...sorry if I can't contribute much for the moment.


----------



## nsx_23

Has anyone tried the LD I+ amp with Ultrasones? I'm considering getting the version with Western Electric W03A tubes to use with my proline 550s.


----------



## imp0ssibled

.


----------



## imp0ssibled

.


----------



## helicopter34234

Would the LDI+ be a good match for my DT770/250's? I am currently using an upgraded Zero HP amp. Just wondering how much of an improvement I will notice with the LDI+. How does it stack up to other amps in a similar price range. How much difference would you notice from higher end amps? Sorry for the novice/loaded questions.


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nsx_23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone tried the LD I+ amp with Ultrasones? I'm considering getting the version with Western Electric W03A tubes to use with my proline 550s._

 

I would recommend getting the base version with Chinese 6J1 tubes and get the WE 408A after-market on the 'bay, it's not only cheaper that way and also allows you to have matched tubes from reputable sellers since LD doesn't match tubes that they put on their amps.

 - DoA


----------



## chews89

Hey guys, just an update.

 I went down to the local Dick Smiths and picked up some isopropyl alcohol cleaning fluid and it works great 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 no more annoying crackling when I'm trying to enjoy my music.

 I have a question though, would the LD I+ work OK with higher impedance headphones? I know that they are designed for low impedance headphones but if i do eventually get a 300ohm pair of headphones, they would still be able to drive them right? Just not as well some other more ideal amps?


----------



## nsx_23

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dept_of_Alchemy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would recommend getting the base version with Chinese 6J1 tubes and get the WE 408A after-market on the 'bay, it's not only cheaper that way and also allows you to have matched tubes from reputable sellers since LD doesn't match tubes that they put on their amps.

 - DoA_

 

Ah, ok. 

 The reason I quoted the WE tube config was because thats the configuration I was on the audio store's website (Mingo in HK for anybody wondering). Maybe they stock the standard config I+ as well.

 The funny thing is, the MKII isn't that far apart from the I+ in price, so which one? I'll be using it with Ultrasone Porline 550s, but will be getting Sennehiser HD650s and Edition 9s in the future (unless something extra tasty comes up).


----------



## electropop

I've read on this exact thread, that the mkII is more classic, kinda warm tube -sounding, in oppose to a dynamic and very punchy little thing called I+. 

 Depends what you like really. I'm sorry for a non-informative post, since i can't give you any feedback on Ultrasone's... I've not very much experience with them.
 The differences between tubes outcome in the same way between all of my phones.. (punchy/dynamic tube improves that attribute of the phones etc.)
 So I can try recommending you different tubes, based on your sound-preference.

 -K


----------



## jpstereo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chews89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, just an update.

 I went down to the local Dick Smiths and picked up some isopropyl alcohol cleaning fluid and it works great 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 no more annoying crackling when I'm trying to enjoy my music.

 I have a question though, would the LD I+ work OK with higher impedance headphones? I know that they are designed for low impedance headphones but if i do eventually get a 300ohm pair of headphones, they would still be able to drive them right? Just not as well some other more ideal amps?_

 

Hi -

 I cannot recommend this amp with high impedance phones. It just didn't have enough juice to drive either my HD580s or AKG K601s. Definitely made for lower impedance phones for sure .... sounded best with my Denon 1001s!


----------



## TKvC-SainT

I´ve tried a pair of Sennheiser HD650 which are 300Ohm on my LD I+ (with WE408A & Stock opamp) and I didn´t have any trouble, getting high enough volume or any apparent sonic faults, might not have been ideal, but I wouldn´t mind using a pair of HD650s on my LD I+, and this was with the gain set to Low, as I normally use my W5ks with the amp, and with those I can´t even turn the volume past the 10 mark.


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

The I+ sounds fine with my HD650 as well, it's not exactly as good as the MkIII but it's much much better than any cmoy's ever managed to sound in my system. For reference I used to listen extensively with the Penguin Royal caffeine amp that's a boutique cmoy amp that sold for $100.


----------



## K3cT

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blynch1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone try this with D2000? If so does it have a good synergy with them?

 Also, can can anyone give me a comparison of the I+ with the starving student and/or the millet max._

 

Seconding this.


----------



## chews89

Sigh* Bad news guys, the crackling has come back and has not stopped, even though i have tried cleaning the tube pins with isopropyl alcohol 3 times now. 

 Does this mean i need to a "proper" electronics cleaner? Like deOXIT? But i can't find that in Australia, unless i order it online but shipping will take a while.

 I've been down to DickSmith and they really don't have anything suitable..

 Are there any Aussies here that know where to buy a cleaner that will solve the crackling? ANY help will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## chews89

Ohyea, thanks guys for your opinions concerning the LDI+ and higher impedance headphones


----------



## bnuttz

I have some Markl Modded D2000's, and IMO the synergy is great with this amp. There is more than enough juice in this thing to handle complex bass pasages with these phones. No muddy bass. Nice channel separation.

 I just swapped in some 408a tubes in place of the stock tubes, and my intial impressions are that they tighten up the bass and bring the upper mids to the forefront. 

 I have never heard my Grados sound as good either. This amp is a great deal for low impedance phones. Especially with the Live search discount.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chews89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sigh* Bad news guys, the crackling has come back and has not stopped, even though i have tried cleaning the tube pins with isopropyl alcohol 3 times now. 

 Does this mean i need to a "proper" electronics cleaner? Like deOXIT? But i can't find that in Australia, unless i order it online but shipping will take a while.

 I've been down to DickSmith and they really don't have anything suitable..

 Are there any Aussies here that know where to buy a cleaner that will solve the crackling? ANY help will be greatly appreciated._

 


 You can buy Deoxit from JayCar!


----------



## nsx_23

Does anyone know if its possible to buy a Little Dot directly from the factory? I'm actually visiting shengzhen in January, and was wanting to pickup a good tube amp whilst I'm there. 

 My main worry is counterfeit amps or craply built amps that'll blow my headphones apart in 1 minute.

 Alternatively, I might just buy from a trusted audio store in HK like Mingo if its not too much more money.


----------



## K3cT

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bnuttz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have some Markl Modded D2000's, and IMO the synergy is great with this amp. There is more than enough juice in this thing to handle complex bass pasages with these phones. No muddy bass. Nice channel separation.

 I just swapped in some 408a tubes in place of the stock tubes, and my intial impressions are that they tighten up the bass and bring the upper mids to the forefront. 

 I have never heard my Grados sound as good either. This amp is a great deal for low impedance phones. Especially with the Live search discount._

 

How does it handle D2000's mids and treble energy?


----------



## chews89

Thanks Zeenuts! I went there to get some deOXIT.

 BUT..I'm such a dumba**. I bought DeoxIT GOLD which i only realised is a conditioner and enhancer and not a cleaner. I tried using it(pen-form) on my pins but didn't see anything happening..I was pretty much just rubbing the tip of the pen against the pins. Man I'm so noob.

 Plus the crackling has not really gone, it still comes up now and then. So i really don't know, should i go back to the shop and try and get the actual cleaner? Maybe they'll let me exchange this DeoxIT GOLD. ANY opinions will be appreciated as I'll be going to the shop's area tomorrow so I could stop by. Thanks!


----------



## bnuttz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *K3cT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does it handle D2000's mids and treble energy?_

 

Quite well, with the setup I have. I don't find any deficiencies except that the treble may be very slightly laid back. I still have a bit more burn in time on my new tubes though. 

 I think I will be able to tweak this with some op amp rolling. We will see.


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chews89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Zeenuts! I went there to get some deOXIT.

 BUT..I'm such a dumba**. I bought DeoxIT GOLD which i only realised is a conditioner and enhancer and not a cleaner. I tried using it(pen-form) on my pins but didn't see anything happening..I was pretty much just rubbing the tip of the pen against the pins. Man I'm so noob.

 Plus the crackling has not really gone, it still comes up now and then. So i really don't know, should i go back to the shop and try and get the actual cleaner? Maybe they'll let me exchange this DeoxIT GOLD. ANY opinions will be appreciated as I'll be going to the shop's area tomorrow so I could stop by. Thanks!_

 

I use Deoxit Gold on my tube pins and it works great. Get yourself a small brush and use it on the pins. Don't be afraid to scrub to make sure all the residue gets off...


----------



## chews89

I still don't quite get it. So i just keep rubbing the pen tip against the pins? But I don't see any liquid or anything coming out. It just seems be very dry. Did i get a faulty product? Or is it meant to be this way.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Hey you brought the wrong product mate! What you should have got is Deoxit D100L & G100L they're in form of a nail polish bottle at 7.4ml. Jaycar has them as a package for $20Aud.

 Apply small amount of D100L to tubes pins, wait a few minutes and then use a lint free cloth to rub against the pins until free of the black residue.

 After that apply small amount of G100L to all pins wait a few minutes and wipe off the excess with a lint free cloth!


----------



## K3cT

Based on this picture...







 Is it safe to assume that op-amp over there in the middle of the PCB can be switched out with something else?


----------



## bnuttz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *K3cT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it safe to assume that op-amp over there in the middle of the PCB can be switched out with something else?_

 

Absolutely. I am trying to brainstorm a way to fit an HDAM in this thing. Mine is already soldered to something else, so I can't do a fit check, but a dual HDAM looks like it would not fit. The maniacal gears in my head are turning and wondering if I could fit two single channel HDAMs in there with extension leads and the proper adapter. Maybe its just wishful thinking.

 Anybody have any single channel HDAMs where they could do a potential reality check?


----------



## cristox

The HDAMs i know of have the same baseplate as the dual ones.
 So it does not matter sizewise.

 BTW: i got my LD 1+ on last Friday and i am very happy with this great little...dot


----------



## bnuttz

Yeah, I found a picture earlier. Bummer.


----------



## cristox

If anyone is interested in replacing the stock volume knob with just the same volume knob take a look here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ies%26_fvi%3D1

 Does anyone know of a good, heavy and minimalistic looking volume knob replacement for the LD1+?


----------



## chews89

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cafe zeenuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey you brought the wrong product mate! What you should have got is Deoxit D100L & G100L they're in form of a nail polish bottle at 7.4ml. Jaycar has them as a package for $20Aud.

 Apply small amount of D100L to tubes pins, wait a few minutes and then use a lint free cloth to rub against the pins until free of the black residue.

 After that apply small amount of G100L to all pins wait a few minutes and wipe off the excess with a lint free cloth!_

 

So i went back to Jaycar and exchanged my deoxIT for the $20AUD package. And it worked! For a day..and then the crackling started again..so i cleaned it again and it worked..for another day..and then it came back..

 It's becoming quite annoying. Like its fine listening to rock etc but once i put on some classical, the crackling is so obvious. But then there are times when the crackling suddenly stops for like half an hour..and then starts up again. Does anyone know whats going on!? It maybe because i'm such a noob and don't know how to clean the pins properly but i followed ur directions, Zeenuts..i dunno hey. Could there be other reasons for the crackling other than dirty pins?

 Edit: How often do you guys clean your tube pins?


----------



## lennybrisco

chews89,

 I have had the same problem with my Doge 6210. I found the issue to actually be a power problem.

 If the alky does not work try a power filter (if you don't already)

 -LB


----------



## nauxolo (Feb 19, 2018)

Is the box animal better than the population?

The phobic class recognises into the romantic start.


----------



## cristox

Start wich the normal stock tubes and order other tube seperately via eBay or other tube sellers.
 Even David (boss/salesman of littel tube) suggested doing so.
 The 408a they offer are way to expensive.
 Little tube has to import the from USA to China and you reimport them. Not very wise...
 They offer those tube options for asian buyers.

 Tuberolling is much more fun when you do it yourself.

 BTW @ all: how much time will it take to consider the amp "burned in"?


----------



## nauxolo (Feb 19, 2018)

Did the penitent fact really peck the teacher?

What if the aberrant basis ate the rough?


----------



## Morb

I'm running it with my ATH-A900 and it sounds very nice.

 Although, i'm looking into an upgrade for better headphones already. What's the max of let's say Sennheisers that i can hook up on the LDI+? 
 HD650 is out of the question probably?


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Morb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm running it with my ATH-A900 and it sounds very nice.

 Although, i'm looking into an upgrade for better headphones already. What's the max of let's say Sennheisers that i can hook up on the LDI+? 
 HD650 is out of the question probably?_

 

I think the HD595 would be a good match with the LD I+ if you're interested in Senns. I would probably buy a LD MkII to use with the HD6xx series.


----------



## Morb

any other brand which you recommend?


----------



## sciberpunkt

I just picked up some Senn HD595s recently and was considering the LDII+ or LDIII+, but their rated output power with my 50-ohm Senns would be quite a bit weaker than I would have liked. The output of the LDI+ at a 50-ohm nominal impedance, however, slightly exceeds the continuous input power rating for the HD595s so it seems that the LDI+ would be a better choice. So, I placed an order and the LDI+ is on its way.

 Anyone care to speculate yet as to the optimal op-amp/tube combo that would compliment the laid-back character of the Senn HD595s? I ordered the LDI+ with stock tubes to establish a baseline. The HD595s have yet to see proper amplification since their purchase, so I'll likely be very happy with the sound as is but I never can leave well enough alone.


----------



## ArmAndHammer

My Little Dot I+ arrived today. Very excited. Sounds great with my DT-770/80 Pros and not bad with my MS-1's though I am on the fence with them. So very happy with it out of the box, can't wait until it burns in some and maybe some tube rolling in the future.


----------



## intoart

A few of the comments here seem to suggest that this amp may not work well with my DT770 Pro/80s. Has anyone tried it with those particular 'phones to know for sure?

 (I asked David at LD for his opinion also.)


----------



## intoart

David Zehe (sp?) says it is a good choice for those 'phones. I hope he is right, because I have ordered one!
 It is going to be interesting to see if it is really an improvement over the headphone jack on my integrated amp. If it isn't, I will send it back.


----------



## HippieTom

Mine.





 did not know the cable was that "fat" when i ordered it....from ebay....


----------



## mbd2884

That is just hilarious. Cable looks so ridiculous next to that amp.

 Well hope it sounds awesome


----------



## HippieTom

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mbd2884* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is just hilarious. Cable looks so ridiculous next to that amp.

 Well hope it sounds awesome_

 

It does
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 LOL


----------



## nauxolo (Feb 19, 2018)

What if the abortive security ate the island?


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

I lol'd.


----------



## electropop

Well if you treat the cable badly, it might just crawl to your bedroom, when you're asleep, and strangle you.. 
 I'd be scared S***less..


----------



## HippieTom

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nauxolo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wwow, what does that cable do?_

 

I just needed a powercable and that looked cool on the photos so i bought it. never dreamed about it being that big. but i have tested leakage and it dont leak at all. my other powercables leaks alot. so i must be good if used right


----------



## intoart

My I+ has cleared customs. It should arrive later this week. I am very excited, and hope it sounds as great (with my DT770 Pro/80s) as everyone says!

 I need to find some deoxidizer. Would Radio Shack carry it? How critical is it to deoxidize before my first listen?


----------



## electropop

I haven't run into any problems yet, so can't tell whether it's crucial or not (deoxidizing).. Wouldn't think it'd make them sound better though..


----------



## nauxolo (Feb 19, 2018)

The harsh grade untidys into the triangular challenge.


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nauxolo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After switching my K1 /K2 jumpers to the 408A side... my amp is REALLY warm. It didn't use to be warm on the face plate, but now it is. Is this normal?_

 

Yes. As long as you set the jumpers correctly. The 408A has 20v heater voltage versus 6v for an EF95.


----------



## cristox

Yes, it is getting mighty warm with 408a.
 Not "fingerburnighot" but hot enough to be concerned if you dont know the difference in heater voltages.


----------



## intoart

Mine arrived last night!

 Soundstage: not only larger than the soundstage from my Cambridge integrated, but more "fleshed-out" as well. It is more fully 3-dimensional, and there is a clear distinction between closely-spaced layers (making two instruments right next to each other identifiable as spatially separate entities.

 Detail: At least as detailed as before, and occasionally more so.

 Tone: Extremely lifelike tone, especially with acoustic instruments. This is supplemented by subtleties such as fingers sliding on guitar strings and spit passing through wind instruments.

 Bass: even stronger and deeper than before, but not overwhelming. Exceptionally lifelike texture. The warm, fuzzy tone of a bowed acoustic bass was reproduced more perfectly that I have ever heard it on any stereo system before (and I know because I was in a string orchestra.)

 Transparency: To me, this is the most impressive benefit of all. I am aware of the headphones as a physical presence, but they no longer seem to have anything to do with the sound. Now they seem like open windows that the music passes through!

 If it seems like I am very impressed, that is because I am! All of this is with the stock tubes and no burn-in, plus it is LDs cheapest home amp! It is hard to imagine what it might be like after I get upgraded tubes and they burn in!

 My integrated was pretty good, but now I believe 100% in the benefits of a dedicated amp!


----------



## electropop

And this was.. with the stock 6J1's? Hmm.. 

 I recall something similar. They might calm down after some burn-in, which might be a bad thing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The transparency issue with my GE408s was something similar. They sounded awesome without any burn-in! Serious transparency that i've never heard before and soo detailed.. Great bass too. After much use, i noticed they calming down by a large marging and they started to sound more and more like WE 408's, which was sad 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 (I did quick preferences all the time while using them)

 -K


----------



## Bullseye

Damn it... why do I keep reading all this hyped comments about the LD I+... I bought mine and I am waiting for it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have grado sr225 so lets see how the combination is. Intoart, what cans you used?


----------



## intoart

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn it... why do I keep reading all this hyped comments about the LD I+... I bought mine and I am waiting for it... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have grado sr225 so lets see how the combination is. Intoart, what cans you used?_

 

You shouldn't have long to wait. They ship fast. (Mine arrived in under a week after I paid for it!)

 The phones I used when I wrote the review above were DT770 Pro/80s. Since then, I have upgraded to DT150s (a substantial improvement for little price difference, and the 770s were damn good to begin with!) I have also upgraded to Westinghouse 408As, which I will soon be replacing with Tung Sols. Finally, I upgraded the op amp as well. Man is it ever a sweet-sounding setup now!


----------



## sgupt

There should be no issues with this amp and a beyer 880 (250 ohm), right? from what I read so far in this thread, it can power 300ohm senns with little issue.


----------



## intoart

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sgupt* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There should be no issues with this amp and a beyer 880 (250 ohm), right? from what I read so far in this thread, it can power 300ohm senns with little issue._

 

It is good for up to 600 Ohms.


----------



## sgupt

Ah cool, thanks


----------



## Bullseye

How would you guys compare the LD I+ against other SS or tube amps?


----------



## REB

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *intoart* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is good for up to 600 Ohms._

 

Well, not quite I think. I tried to different pairs of 80's Beyerdynamic DT990 with 600 Ohm resistance and both pairs sounded crappy. The LDI+ just couldn't drive them. Not that I expected them to, but I wanted to try anyway.


----------



## Sw33t.Shuga.Ray

is there a pdf manual I can download for this?
 just got mine and want to be extra prepared+cautious with it.

 tnx in adv


----------



## Bullseye

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sw33t.Shuga.Ray* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_is there a pdf manual I can download for this?
 just got mine and want to be extra prepared+cautious with it.

 tnx in adv_

 

Wait for David's reply. he will send you one. If he does not ask him for one.


----------



## Sw33t.Shuga.Ray

^^^tnx I will email him...

 Question!
 Im about to change the op amp to lt1364...I just turned it off how long do I wait?
 should I unplug the tubes before doing so?
 is it just the 4 screws in the bottom?

 tnx


----------



## LeftyGorilla

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sw33t.Shuga.Ray* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^^^tnx I will email him...

 Question!
 Im about to change the op amp to lt1364...I just turned it off how long do I wait?
 should I unplug the tubes before doing so?
 is it just the 4 screws in the bottom?

 tnx_

 

Fun, isn't it?

 The manual says wait 5-10 minutes to make sure all the charge drains from the unit and you don't get a shock. Easiest to take the tubes out first, the flip her over and yeah, the 4 screws on the bottom. 

 You're probably done by now?


----------



## Sw33t.Shuga.Ray

^^^lol..no Ill give it an hour...Im not a fan of electric shock
 thanks...got the opamps and the amp itself today...Ill update you if I dont get electrocuted

 btw...I emailed them and they responed in 3 mins emailed me a pdf manual..wow that was EZ


----------



## Sw33t.Shuga.Ray

removed the screws/aka feet rubber...what now??? do I pull upwards or slide it forw/back?


----------



## LeftyGorilla

nonono

 The bottom 2 screws on the face and back plate...the feet screws keep the feet on. I did the same thing first time I opened it up.

 The bottom plate should lift off easily.


----------



## Sw33t.Shuga.Ray

^^^thanks I actually figured it out 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





>>>lol
 ok heres what happened
 with my sr80s (listening to Getiton by Powerstation)
 the difference? HUMONGOUS!!!! and Im using stock tubes. I initially fired it up and attached it to my dvd player. there was a negligible electrical hum (left channel only)which faded away after 30mins but was still there (audible at 0 gain). the SQ was totally mud for me (in a nutshell)at this point (being a noob and all)told myself that my portable Headsix sound miles better than this- now Im listening with the new opamp and wow...its much much much better.
 will be buying some gb 408a pretty soon. oh and btw..after changing the opamp the hum disappeared totally(?????)


----------



## intoart

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sw33t.Shuga.Ray* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_^^^thanks I actually figured it out 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




>>>lol
 ok heres what happened
 with my sr80s (listening to Getiton by Powerstation)
 the difference? HUMONGOUS!!!! and Im using stock tubes. I initially fired it up and attached it to my dvd player. there was a negligible electrical hum (left channel only)which faded away after 30mins but was still there (audible at 0 gain). the SQ was totally mud for me (in a nutshell)at this point (being a noob and all)told myself that my portable Headsix sound miles better than this- now Im listening with the new opamp and wow...its much much much better.
 will be buying some gb 408a pretty soon. oh and btw..after changing the opamp the hum disappeared totally(?????)_

 

Once again, I am surprised. When I replaced the stock op amp with LT1364, I heard a slight improvement in clarity, and that was it. It was worth doing (since it didn't cost much), but it was anything but a huge difference!


----------



## Sw33t.Shuga.Ray

update...I tried using different amps from same source in this case a Headsix and I was bummed coz it seems like my source is not to par with my ipod(connection/cables maybe? RCA to amp vs 1/8 to amp 2inch). so it was a coin toss on sq between the both lil favorable for the LD though on the intensity of the sound.

 ^^^btw as for clarity it was BIG as I emphasized from same source / music was much more enjoyable/immersive. but it was still missing something. maybe I need a tube change ...I much more enjoy my ipod>headsix


----------



## LeftyGorilla

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *intoart* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Once again, I am surprised. When I replaced the stock op amp with LT1364, I heard a slight improvement in clarity, and that was it. It was worth doing (since it didn't cost much), but it was anything but a huge difference!_

 

Perhaps the defining quality of an "audiophile" listener is that slight improvements are experienced as huge differences...and then, how much $$ is a "slight" improvement worth to you?

 Don't get me wrong. I'm not saying you have the wrong perspective or aren't cool enough or anything like that. Just we're dealing with subtleties here.


----------



## Shoreman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LeftyGorilla* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Perhaps the defining quality of an "audiophile" listener is that slight improvements are experienced as huge differences...and then, how much $$ is a "slight" improvement worth to you?_

 

That is, if there truly is a "slight improvement." Not that it can't in fact be so, but I'm always skeptical when I hear a listener refer to hearing a "slight improvement." Unless he formally A/B's it, how can he be so sure if it's only "slight." I think, and obviously this is only an empirical observation, that often we "hear" differences that we want, or hope, to be there. And that's when placebo rears its ugly head.


----------



## Bullseye

You said it all shoreman... I doubt the difference was so immense when changing the op-amp...

 Then Sw33t if you were used to a good SS amp, a tube amp (hybrid might too) will give nothing else than more distortion. Less neutrality if you want it that way (that is how each amp works, not because i say so) I do not know if you have read this before, but to start listening to a tube (hybrid) amp you have to wait 5-10 minutes for the tubes to charge and perform at their intended capacity. I still have not received my amp, but I believe if at first sounds distorted, then after the tubes are settled it will sound better.

 I believe you still have the hype of trying your new amp, and the placebo effect might be kicking in quite strong, however I would like to read a more objective review/opinion of how the sound is delivered. For example, intoart gave a quantitative opinion, thanks for that.

 All in all, i am looking forward to try it with my grados


----------



## intoart

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullseye* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You said it all shoreman... I doubt the difference was so immense when changing the op-amp...

 Then Sw33t if you were used to a good SS amp, a tube amp (hybrid might too) will give nothing else than more distortion. Less neutrality if you want it that way (that is how each amp works, not because i say so) I do not know if you have read this before, but to start listening to a tube (hybrid) amp you have to wait 5-10 minutes for the tubes to charge and perform at their intended capacity. I still have not received my amp, but I believe if at first sounds distorted, then after the tubes are settled it will sound better.

 I believe you still have the hype of trying your new amp, and the placebo effect might be kicking in quite strong, however I would like to read a more objective review/opinion of how the sound is delivered. For example, intoart gave a quantitative opinion, thanks for that.

 All in all, i am looking forward to try it with my grados_

 


 Actually, I am beginning to second guess myself. Now that the "new car smell" has worn off, I am no longer as enamored of the I+ as I was (though I certainly still like it.) When I try my solid state integrated amp, I find that I enjoy it as much as I did before I heard the I+. They sound enough different, however, that it is hard to say objectively that one is better.


----------



## Sw33t.Shuga.Ray

^^^I gave it 2 hours before I changed the op amp (fyi)and another hr to listen to the new one 
 Im glad your still curious about the amp though with the Grados. Its all uphill from here for me and so far so good. Ive heard those GB 408a sound fantastic. I might try to do line out from my pc toslink>receiver line out and see what happens. Im not sure about the placebo effect but Im looking forward to trying it out again tonight changing my source. and again Im totally surprised that an opamp change would totally improve the sq.Ive read about it initially (bottleneck) but I was kinda skeptical.


----------



## Bullseye

Haha I should be curious, shouldn't I? I bought it a few days ago and will be receiving it soon. I have read A LOT about tubes and their "warmer" sound, and for its price it is a winner. I will be able to try tubes for a small price tag, and will be able to listen to triodes, tetrodes, pentodes, etc... 

 I hope i like the tube "sound" (or hybrid "sound" better)


----------



## Sw33t.Shuga.Ray

^^^as of now I canNOT conclude anything at all with this amp. lets leave it at that. There are a couple more things I have to do. too bad newark doesnt deliver to eu(lt cn8s). I tried my best to hold back from saying how bad it initially was (avoiding to describe nuances in the music=I would fail miserably) and I think I did a good job >but true enough 3-4hrs of testing from 1 source can easily be deemed inconclusive (actually I connected my mini ipod via 1/8>rca and was not impressed)

 -hoping too much can cause disaster (Im just saying.)


----------



## sciberpunkt

I think I noticed more of a difference when swapping tubes. With the matched-pair of VOSHOD 6ZH1P tubes I received from Yen Audio, I perceived more clarity in the lower end of the frequency range, better high frequency extension, and more natural sounding female vocals. Adding the LT1364 seemed to present a more subtle change, perhaps adding a bit of depth to the soundstage with certain source material. Replacing a $1 opamp with an $8 one with better specs can't be a bad idea though.


----------



## Headdie

I've read this thread and the associated tube rolling thread. I understand that some people have encountered balance problem with this amplifier, especially at low volume. I also understand that it could be related to the average quality pot and/or tube problems. Now that this amplifier is out for a while, it would be fine if some I+ owners would like to comment about it. Thanks,


----------



## 521ztz

Strange,
 i can't c the photos in #1...


----------



## cristox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Headdie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I understand that some people have encountered balance problem with this amplifier, especially at low volume._

 

I always listen with the pot at 9-12 o'clock. Lower volumes are too ... low. 
 No imbalance i can notice.


----------



## Dept_of_Alchemy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Headdie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've read this thread and the associated tube rolling thread. I understand that some people have encountered balance problem with this amplifier, especially at low volume. I also understand that it could be related to the average quality pot and/or tube problems. Now that this amplifier is out for a while, it would be fine if some I+ owners would like to comment about it. Thanks,_

 

It's not uncommon to get tubes that are grossly mismatched if you get them from amateur sellers on ebay who don't test the items they sell. In my opinion considering how important the quality of your tubes are to the performance of the amp it's just not worth the gamble listening to poor quality tubes, I know I have had bad experiences with tubes that are completely unbalanced that destroy the soundstage presentation of the music.

 - DoA


----------



## LingLing1337

So... where can a body still obtain Sylvania Gold Brand GB408A tubes?


----------



## | Scorpio |

BUMP

 Does anyone know how well this amp could drive a K601? I was considering buying one of those after I get one of these amps, but I'd like to have an amp that could drive my Grados and an AKG well.


----------



## Kawai_man

How does the Little dot I+ and the Mk2 compare in sound? Also how does I+ compare to the built in amp in the ZERO and Hifiman EF2.


----------



## Kawai_man

... Id want to use this amp with Ultrasones proline 650 and aill also be getting some hfi2200 or pro 2500s, anyone have any comments on how it sounds with these head phones


----------



## iamthecheese

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *| Scorpio |* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know how well this amp could drive a K601? I was considering buying one of those after I get one of these amps, but I'd like to have an amp that could drive my Grados and an AKG well._

 

I'm also wondering this


----------



## lazpete

I not an owner yet, but will recive my dot in next week. 
 I have a piar of K601, but I dont have a clue of how to measure the setup. But, looking at the numbers of the hp and the amp, Ide say, yes, it works.


----------



## iamthecheese

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lazpete* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I not an owner yet, but will recive my dot in next week. 
 I have a piar of K601, but I dont have a clue of how to measure the setup. But, looking at the numbers of the hp and the amp, Ide say, yes, it works._

 

Well when you receive it, I am very interested on how they sound together.


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kawai_man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... Id want to use this amp with Ultrasones proline 650 and aill also be getting some hfi2200 or pro 2500s, anyone have any comments on how it sounds with these head phones_

 


 All three of those phones sound very good with the I+. I personally like the Mullard M8100 and Mullard EF91 with them.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kawai_man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... Id want to use this amp with Ultrasones proline 650 and aill also be getting some hfi2200 or pro 2500s, anyone have any comments on how it sounds with these head phones_

 

The LD I+ has the current to drive my pro 2500 very well. I have lots of hours on the ultrasone...big tight deep bass and good detail to the high end. The mids are brought out with more current so the 408A family of tubes works best for the ultrasone HP's. Currently with Sylvannia Gold 408 and its a great match up. I did not like the 5654/EF95/403B family of tubes with the pro2500, as although the bass was good, the trebles/mids got weaker and there was loss of detail ( these tubes have the least amount of gain or current draw of the three family of tubes that can be used) The EF95's ( Sylvania 6AK5 round getters black plates) were excellent for my ESW9's tho with good detail highs and tight bass.

 The third family of tubes: EF92/EF91/6AM6 ( has the middle amount of gain or current) I would describe as the warm /tubey tubes...with very good mids and I found the Mullard tubes to be very good so far with the Grado HF2 that I just got. But I think I will switch back to the 408's to hear if it can be more linear across the sound spectrum. 

 The LD I+ is definitely tune-able...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 BTW I find the LD I+ to sound better than the Pico's hp amp out, although I use the Pico as the dac to the LD.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Howdy HeatFan!


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Howdy HeatFan!_

 


 Hi tako

 Hope everything has been well. Again, many thanks for the great advice on the Pro2500s last year. Love them....

 At first, it was solid state for them. Until one day I had some EF91s in the I+ and plugged them in. Very nice tight sound. Mids were even more present without being sluggish and the bass was still defined. The tailoring to particular headphones with this little amp has been very rewarding.


----------



## bear7

I've had the LD 1+ since it came out and this is what I have observed. This amp works great with low imped. phones (Grado's and my K701). In fact David told me this is what the amp was made for with low imped. phones in mind. Of all the tubes I've tried the Mullard M8161 (EF92) was the best sounding tube to me. IMHO!!! Little Dot customer service, second to none. 

 David


----------



## sno

If I opted for the LD I+ as my headphone amp, which headphones go better with it? The Senn HD600 or the Grado SR325is.

 I listen to rock, blues, reggae... I like "warm" sounds...

 Also, how does LD I+ compare with HiFiMAN EF2 and the LD MK III?


----------



## lazpete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iamthecheese* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well when you receive it, I am very interested on how they sound together._

 

Sure, I will let you guys know my impressions.


----------



## ka24altima

Just purchased one to replace the CMOY I blew up yesterday (OOOOOPS!). Will be used to drive a pair of Grado SR225.


----------



## roker

Anyone else running a pair of D2000s with this? (I'd like more than one first hand account)


----------



## taso89

So here's a short story...

 I've been ready to sell this amp. You can see my high-impedance setup in my sig, and since I sold my Denon D2000's I haven't had use for the I+. And either way, I thought it was an okay amp, outshined by the HeadRoom Cosmic which synergizes well with my HD600's.

 Well, my better half bought me Grado SR60i's as a gift and I had tried it out of every headphone jack I have, including the Cosmic amp. Then I decided to try hooking up this amp with WE408A's + LT1364 again, since I remember many people commenting on the wonderful synergy with Grados. This combo is absolutely magical. I don't think this amp will be leaving my house anytime soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Warm, full-bodied sound comes to mind. Very wide and pretty deep soundstage, details from lows to highs are superb. Timbre of instruments is just magical.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Yeah this amp is really a gem with low sensitivity HP's and can be tuned easily.

 I made a suggestion for the I+ on a thread requesting ideas to amp the grado HF2's and it was promptly ignored. The OP of the thread went for the much more expensive mappletree...which is a great grado amp. But being from china and cheap...it is often not taken seriously.

 I tell you tho it sounds great with my Grado HF2. I have compared it with my ZDT and although the ZDT is definitely better...the Little Dot is not embarassed.


----------



## wallace

After 5 months of messing with this fine little amp,
 Three op amps 
 Four sets of valves,
 I am now using an A2107 op and Mullard EF92 
 cv4015/m8161 valves.
 Talk about smooth, trebles tamed ,

 and i nearly have a soundstage
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Amp and phones are now staying.phew,at last.


----------



## drizzt

Just got this amp in last week and I am more than happy so far. Just using the stock tubes and op amp for now until I can save some more money. They really do compliment the grados nicely. I think the nicest part has to be that the sr-80s highs aren't fatiguing any more. Also David is stellar to deal with. Wasn't sure bought buying off ebay but he made it easy. Fast e-mail responses and great shipping.


----------



## Trapper32

Agree that this LD is the one that makes the Grados sound good. Just tried a pair of AD747 as the opamp and initial impressions are very good.


----------



## | Scorpio |

Which one of these opamps is the right kind for the LDI+? Or would any of them work?


----------



## bronth

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wallace* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After 5 months of messing with this fine little amp,
 Three op amps 
 Four sets of valves,
 I am now using an A2107 op and Mullard EF92 
 cv4015/m8161 valves.
 Talk about smooth, trebles tamed ,

 and i nearly have a soundstage
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Amp and phones are now staying.phew,at last._

 

I concur - the Mullard EF92/BB OPA2107 combo has great synergy that adds more definition and separation compared to the stock combo. It works VERY well, especially with classical music, albeit being a bit on the 'solid state' side of things. Actually I got completely another LD I+ with more 'expensive' sound for just $18 - for both op-amp and NOS tubes incl. shipping!

 BUT - and this is a big BUT - recently I reversed LD I+ to the stock op-amp and added Russian 6ZH1P-EV military-spec tubes. These babies didn't like 2107 (too unbalanced sound) thus I decided to reverse the op-amp. And got another side of sonic heaven - it's completely different beast now, LD became more 'tubey', 'buttery' but it works EXTREMELY well and funny (esp. considering bass) with rock and not bad with classics. 

 Moreover - MC33078P has less tendency to sibilance with MOST not too well recorded vocals than 2107. And, I suppose, it has better overall compatibility/synergy with all 3 families of tubes. Now I think that David and Co. have chosen this op-amp not only for its paper specs and low price but they really did thoroughly use their ears during tuning. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 33078 has lower slew-rate compared to 2107 (thus lesser transient response, i.e. less 'quick' sound) but it has very organic sound signature, full-bodied, with nice decay. Great and overlooked op-amp, IMO.


----------



## bronth

BTW, in another LD I+ thread LT1364 was considered too dangerous because of its high DC offset - it can 'cook' your headphones, so LM4562 (same as LME49720) and OPA2107 are more safe options.


----------



## roker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bronth* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW, in another LD I+ thread LT1364 was considered too dangerous because of its high DC offset - it can 'cook' your headphones, so LM4562 (same as LME49720) and OPA2107 are more safe options._

 

wow

 and I kept hearing nice things about the LT1364






 Anyway, I want to buy a little dot I+. Is there an all in one package that has the right tubes and opamps?

 or

 Should I buy it bare bones in the auction and buy those upgrades from another retailer (which I'm guessing you guys have a link for)?

 and

 Has anyone used this with a pair of Grado 125s?


----------



## roker

Is this thread dead or what?


----------



## ka24altima

It's a shame since this is a great amp. Using it with my Grados right now, giving the Senns a break.


----------



## roker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ka24altima* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a shame since this is a great amp. Using it with my Grados right now, giving the Senns a break._

 

I'm going to purchase the bare bones LD I+.

 I'll worry about the upgrades later (opamps, tubes, etc.)

 I think it'll be great for my Grado's.

 Perhaps in the future I'll splurge and get a set of Denon d2000s as well.


----------



## HeatFan12

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *roker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm going to purchase the bare bones LD I+.

 I'll worry about the upgrades later (opamps, tubes, etc.)

 I think it'll be great for my Grado's.

 Perhaps in the future I'll splurge and get a set of Denon d2000s as well._

 

Grados sound great. The bare bones is a good idea. The tubes are not too expensive. I'm using the LT1364 and have had no probs whatsoever.

 Three families of tubes with a simple switch.

 My favorite- EF91 & EF92...

 Enjoy

 EDIT: Hey roker, don't you have the EF2?


----------



## roker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeatFan12* 
_EDIT: Hey roker, don't you have the EF2?_

 

I had a problem I'd rather not discuss here. Pm me if ur interested.


----------



## ka24altima

I got the 6AK5W with the stock op-amp and love them.


----------



## roker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ka24altima* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got the 6AK5W with the stock op-amp and love them._

 

Anyone try them with the SR840?

 I might just let go of my dream of buying some D2000s and go for the new kid on the block. The 840s have an impedance of 44 Ohms.


----------



## tako_tsubo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ka24altima* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got the 6AK5W with the stock op-amp and love them._

 

I got these tubes when I first got the I+...will dig 'em out and try them
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I recall that they were the Sylvania round getter and black plate and were superb with the ESW9's...will try them with the HF2's


----------



## geetarman49

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tako_tsubo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got these tubes when I first got the I+...will dig 'em out and try them
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I recall that they were the Sylvania round getter and black plate and were superb with the ESW9's...will try them with the HF2's_

 

Enquiring minds want to know what is the verdict (6AK5W + HF-2), Tako?

 d.


----------



## Kawai_man

I just got mine at first the bass distorted very slighlty but I cleaned the tubes with some deoxit and now it sounds really good, Im really enjoying the detail and presentation of the sound


----------



## SirDrexl

I am considering this, which would be my first tube amp (first amp at all, actually) for my Grado sr-225is which are on the way. I have a Xonar D2 sound card, and for various reasons I'd like to continue using its analog output instead of a separate DAC, at least for a while.

 Would this amp work well with it? My concern is that the outputs aren't really line-level, as they seem to drive my Senn 555s okay now. Is this dual amping, and is it a problem that would make this amp not really worth it? Or, does anyone know of a way to bypass the amps on the Xonar?


----------



## Figuto

What about LD I+ with ER-4S?


----------



## Aynjell

I'm seriously considering this amplifier. It seems to jive with all the headphones I've got. I actually read the thread front to back... I'm such a loser. 

 Anyway, gear list:

 ATH-AD700
 Sony MDR-V6
 Gf has some SR80i's
 I'm buying some SR325i's here very shortly...

 I'm about to go off and read the tube rolling thread but I may find a way to order this amp up on friday and start giving it a good hard listen on my ATH's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 At 140$ it's not that huge of an investment.


----------



## Kawai_man

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Aynjell* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm seriously considering this amplifier. It seems to jive with all the headphones I've got. I actually read the thread front to back... I'm such a loser. 

 Anyway, gear list:

 ATH-AD700
 Sony MDR-V6
 Gf has some SR80i's
 I'm buying some SR325i's here very shortly...

 I'm about to go off and read the tube rolling thread but I may find a way to order this amp up on friday and start giving it a good hard listen on my ATH's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 At 140$ it's not that huge of an investment._

 

I think you will love it with your ad700s, i also use it with my MS1s and it sounds very nice


----------



## Aynjell

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kawai_man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think you will love it with your ad700s, i also use it with my MS1s and it sounds very nice 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll probably place the order for it on friday, then. That or on my next paycheck... wait until I actually have some real money. 

 I'm off to read the tube rolling thread now.


----------



## Aynjell

Ordered my I+.


----------



## lazpete

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Aynjell* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ordered my I+. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	











_

 

Congrats!


----------



## Aynjell

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lazpete* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm really looking forward to this, partially because of the tweakability, and because it prefaces my next purchase. 

 Grado SR325i's on the 13th of november. And it'll be good to take it into custom electronics and give it a good listen.


----------



## SirDrexl

Well, I've decided to pull the trigger. I kinda wish I had made up my mind sooner so I could have gotten the amp from the guy I bought the tubes from, but no biggie.


----------



## roker

At first, I thought there was no benefit to using this amp past my macbook amp, but then I noticed that when you turn up the volume on the macbook you get more bass but it starts to distort the mids and highs. As opposed to using a stand alone amp like this which gives bass plus NO distortion. I'm happy with it and even if I get upgraditis, I'm keeping this sucker.


----------



## | Scorpio |

I received my LD I+ back from repairs yesterday! I was concerned at first, because there was a noticeable channel imbalance and a little hissing, but I figured out that it was just a defective opamp. I ordered a LT1364, and hopefully that will get here around tuesday or so.


----------



## Aynjell

Mines here. Got it burning in at my desk at work.


----------



## | Scorpio |

I installed the LT1364 last Wednesday, and wow! It sounds a lot better than the opamp I was borrowing from the amp section of my Zero. I also emailed David to ask if it was dangerous to use the LT1364 in the I+, and he told me that it shouldn't cause any problems.


----------



## sizwej

Just placed my order,cant wait.This will be my first tube experience!


----------



## the_equalizer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Aynjell* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mines here. Got it burning in at my desk at work._

 

Hey Aynjell,
 I'm considering this little amp to substitute for my Millet "Starving Student" Hybrid, maybe you can help me with a question:

 Is there any turn on/off thump? The MSSH has a capacitor coupled output and it produces a VERY loud thump on turn on/off; this both worries me and annoys me. Now one can 'avoid' it by simply turning the amp on and then plugging the cans in, and viceversa for turning the thing off; the problem is power outages are not that rare where I live and the loud thump in my cans really upsets me.

 Also, does anyone know if it is still possible to order this amp from ebay with EF92 or W408B tubes? I don't see any mention of these options in the ebay item page.

 Thanks in advance.

 cheers!


----------



## Kawai_man

You should never turn tube amps on/off without headphones conected to them. It can damage the amp


----------



## Aynjell

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *the_equalizer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Aynjell,
 I'm considering this little amp to substitute for my Millet "Starving Student" Hybrid, maybe you can help me with a question:

 Is there any turn on/off thump? The MSSH has a capacitor coupled output and it produces a VERY loud thump on turn on/off; this both worries me and annoys me. Now one can 'avoid' it by simply turning the amp on and then plugging the cans in, and viceversa for turning the thing off; the problem is power outages are not that rare where I live and the loud thump in my cans really upsets me.

 Also, does anyone know if it is still possible to order this amp from ebay with EF92 or W408B tubes? I don't see any mention of these options in the ebay item page.

 Thanks in advance.

 cheers!_

 


 It pings and garbles a bit on it's way out but it's not a huge thump on turn off. On turn on you can tell it turns on.


----------



## the_equalizer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kawai_man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should never turn tube amps on/off without headphones conected to them. It can damage the amp_

 

That is correct for amplifiers with transformer coupled output. And even in those cases, many such amps include a dummy resistor load to protect the output transformer in case one accidentaly turns the amp on with no headphones plugged in.

 Output transformerless amps are another matter.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Aynjell* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It pings and garbles a bit on it's way out but it's not a huge thump on turn off. On turn on you can tell it turns on. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Hmmm.. sounds like what I need... (yeah, right! I *need* another headphone amp, sure)

 cheers!


----------



## Aynjell

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *the_equalizer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is correct for amplifiers with transformer coupled output. And even in those cases, many such amps include a dummy resistor load to protect the output transformer in case one accidentaly turns the amp on with no headphones plugged in.

 Output transformerless amps are another matter.



 Hmmm.. sounds like what I need... (yeah, right! I *need* another headphone amp, sure)

 cheers!_

 

The sound on turn on reminds me of when the sound card turns on and starts giving sound to the speakers, it's a thump but at the volume levels I use on my system (gentoo linux, audigy 2 zs, volume at 100 with external amp enabled in sound properties), and then my amp is usually at 20-30, 40 if I feel like immersing myself.


----------



## theprezz

I noticed some of the earlier posts in this thread, from when the amp was first released, talked about its potential as an entry-level/beginner amp. Now that its been out awhile, I was curious if people still thought that. The only amp I currently have is the Total BitHead and I have no electronics experience -- is the Little Dot something I could handle? I noticed the comments in this thread about making sure your headphones are plugged in when turning the amp on and off. Are there other tube amp idiosyncrasies such as that which it would be good for a newbie like me to know before I purchase one?

 Also, I just purchased a pair of Shure SRH440 headphones and I was curious if anyone had tried those with this amp and had an opinion on how they matched up.

 Thanks for the help!


----------



## Aynjell

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theprezz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I noticed some of the earlier posts in this thread, from when the amp was first released, talked about its potential as an entry-level/beginner amp. Now that its been out awhile, I was curious if people still thought that. The only amp I currently have is the Total BitHead and I have no electronics experience -- is the Little Dot something I could handle? I noticed the comments in this thread about making sure your headphones are plugged in when turning the amp on and off. Are there other tube amp idiosyncrasies such as that which it would be good for a newbie like me to know before I purchase one?

 Also, I just purchased a pair of Shure SRH440 headphones and I was curious if anyone had tried those with this amp and had an opinion on how they matched up.

 Thanks for the help!_

 

Sure SRH440 have a 44 ohm impedence, which should still be within this amp's ability to deliver with, although it's designed almost from front to back for 32 ohm cans or lower, 44 ohm should still be fine. Not really sure how much difference it makes but my 63 ohm sony's run fine. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That being said, I have no idea how well they pair. I bought my ld I+ because of the low price. 

 It's a great beginner amp for a few reasons:

 First off, it's a cheap introduction to tube and op amp rolling, and will give you a good platform to develop a collection of both.

 Second off, it's high quality product. Not much else to say, mine is one of the nicer pieces of kit I have. Everything on it is metal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, It is good for beginners because most lower cost (beginner) cans are typically low impedence. I say go for it, for only 104$ plus shipping, you can't go wrong. Just be sure to order from davidzhezhe. I can't think of a headphone under 100$ that has an impedence over 100ohm.


----------



## SirDrexl

Do you have another DAC besides the Bithead? This is just an amp, so you need to feed it a line-level input. What is your source?

 Looking over the Bithead's manual, there doesn't seem to be a way to disable the amp and just use it as a DAC (unless you use one of the headphone outs, but then you're dual amping).


----------



## theprezz

Thanks for the replies Aynjell and SirDrexl. I'm planning on using the BitHead at work and the Litte Dot at home with a DAC. I'm still making up my mind on what DAC to get -- I know I want one with both USB and coax inputs. I've been looking at the Super Pro DAC 707 USB which is dirt cheap, but I'm not sure it offers switching between inputs. It looks like a number of people in this thread have used the Zero, so I may look into that as well.


----------



## berlinguyinca

still waiting for mine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And once it arrives I will be gone for a week so the girl will touch it and fall in love with it and I never see it again


----------



## jpstereo

Just ordered mine today. Plan on using it with set of recently ordered Grado SR60i's. Should make for a great budget set-up!


----------



## berlinguyinca

finally got mine and played around with it. Now where are the replacement tubes and opamps...

 so far I'm happy


----------



## iamthecheese

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *berlinguyinca* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_finally got mine and played around with it. Now where are the replacement tubes and opamps...

 so far I'm happy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I highly recommend rolling the tubes and opamps, it made me much happier with my sound.


----------



## SirDrexl

Hmmm, my amp just stopped working for some reason. It had been fine, but when I try to turn it on, nothing happens. The LED doesn't light up.

 I opened it up, and nothing appears wrong. I tried changing the tubes (and was careful to set the jumpers right), and it still won't come on. Anything else I should try?


----------



## Aynjell

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SirDrexl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, my amp just stopped working for some reason. It had been fine, but when I try to turn it on, nothing happens. The LED doesn't light up.

 I opened it up, and nothing appears wrong. I tried changing the tubes (and was careful to set the jumpers right), and it still won't come on. Anything else I should try?_

 

Cable plugged in correctly? Is your fuse blown?


----------



## SirDrexl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Aynjell* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cable plugged in correctly? Is your fuse blown?_

 

The cable in plugged in the way it should be. Where is the fuse?


----------



## Aynjell

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SirDrexl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The cable in plugged in the way it should be. Where is the fuse?_

 

Near your power cable, not sure how to check it. Might have to refer to documentation.


----------



## ford2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SirDrexl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The cable in plugged in the way it should be. Where is the fuse?_

 

The fuse is between where you plug in the power cord and the switch,if you put a screwdriver in on the plug side and lever up it will slide out,there is a spare fuse in it as well.


----------



## SirDrexl

Okay, I replaced the fuse, and it's back to normal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 BTW, how can I get some replacements in case this happens again? It says F0,3AL250.


----------



## ford2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SirDrexl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, I replaced the fuse, and it's back to normal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW, how can I get some replacements in case this happens again? It says F0,3AL250._

 


 I believe its a 1 amp fuse.


----------



## oblivious

Hey all, just after some thoughts and advice!

 Now i have ordered a pair of Grado SR-225i which are on their way, and im looking at options for amping them in the very near future.

 I want to create a desktop setup as its all that i can really allow for right now.

 So i was looking at this

 Computer -> Musiland Monitor 02 -> Little Dot I+ -> Grado 225i

 So i guess im asking does this look like a nice low budget setup?? Do i have the correct connections from the Musiland to the Little Dot? I think i saw just RCA on the back of the little dot.

 Some feedback and or advice would be much appreciated


----------



## Uri Cohen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oblivious* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey all, just after some thoughts and advice!

 Now i have ordered a pair of Grado SR-225i which are on their way, and im looking at options for amping them in the very near future.

 I want to create a desktop setup as its all that i can really allow for right now.

 So i was looking at this

 Computer -> Musiland Monitor 02 -> Little Dot I+ -> Grado 225i

 So i guess im asking does this look like a nice low budget setup?? Do i have the correct connections from the Musiland to the Little Dot? I think i saw just RCA on the back of the little dot.

 Some feedback and or advice would be much appreciated 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I would be interested as well. I own the SR225i and the Monitor 02 dac. I might get the Little Dot if I can't get the EF1.


----------



## Trapper32

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oblivious* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey all, just after some thoughts and advice!

 Now i have ordered a pair of Grado SR-225i which are on their way, and im looking at options for amping them in the very near future.

 I want to create a desktop setup as its all that i can really allow for right now.

 So i was looking at this

 Computer -> Musiland Monitor 02 -> Little Dot I+ -> Grado 225i

 So i guess im asking does this look like a nice low budget setup?? Do i have the correct connections from the Musiland to the Little Dot? I think i saw just RCA on the back of the little dot.

 Some feedback and or advice would be much appreciated 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Don't have the musiland monitor 02 but it looks like a good piece of gear. It has RCA outs so just connect to the LD RCA's I've got the 225's with the LD 1+ and i think theres very good synergy there. You'll prolly want to roll some better tubes but I think you'll be happy with this as a low budget setup.


----------



## sithompson

Love my LD 1+. Got some BRMAR T 9D6 EF92 NOS tubes off eBay and they are so much better than the stock tubes. I had a collection of headphone amps until I bought this and I sold them all (Creek, Pro-ject and a couple of others). Currently using HD595 and SR-80i's but looking to upgrade to 225i's or MS1 in the next week or so. My source is very good (Arcam CD17) and the LD copes so well.

 Amazing bit of kit.

 Without wishing to seem lazy (there are 40 pages to this) what are the op-amp options for this amp? Thanks in advance!!


----------



## Aynjell

I'm really looking forward to the next week or two, got some MUllard M8161, and Sylvania Gold Grand 408A's coming in soon. And on friday, SR325i's.


----------



## Oskari

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SirDrexl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It says F0,3AL250._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ford2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe its a 1 amp fuse._

 

I'd read that as a fast 0.3 A 250 V fuse but I could be wrong.

 A 110-120 V version and 220-240 V version of the amp would likely have a different fuse. What versions do you have?

 Is it a glass fuse? What is the physical size? Is it 5 mm x 20 mm?


----------



## SirDrexl

I'm in the US, so I presume 110v. It's 5mm x 20mm.


----------



## ford2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SirDrexl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm in the US, so I presume 110v. It's 5mm x 20mm._

 

If you look in the manual it will tell you.


----------



## roker

Funny thing happened today:

 D2000 + Macbook amp = FAIL

 D2000 + iPhone = Not a complete Fail, but not a Win either

 D2000 + Little Dot I+ = WIN!

 I don't know why people spend all their money on a more expensive amp, these things are money off the Little Dot I+. In case anyone is wondering, I changed the opamp to an LT1364 and swapped the tubes with Mullards. These headphones need a decent amp to perform. I heard Stereo receivers work great as well, but I'll reserve judgement until I try it.


----------



## Aynjell

I'm ordering a hoarde of opamps on friday. Trying to get a list together.


----------



## SirDrexl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ford2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you look in the manual it will tell you._

 

I had checked, but I couldn't find it in the manual. Anyway, I emailed David and he said I could generally use any 250V 3A fuse, and 1A type fuses work as well.


----------



## roker

Still sounding great with my D2000s, but I was wondering if anyone gave it a shot with some Beyerdynamic headphones like the 770/80?


----------



## Uri Cohen

Getting a used one off a member here with the WE tubes (with a good price to boot), will post my impressions once I get it.


----------



## backtofront001

I am going to be using the 1+ with D5000's and currently I use the Denon's with 2009 Zero. How much of a difference is the Little Dot going to make?


----------



## john57

I had a creek OBH-11 that I have not head in years and I put back in operation and still not like it as much, gritty sounding. I just received my Little Dot 1+ and had misgiving with the stock 6JI tubes that was very harsh and thin in the midrange. Male vocals sounded thin not full. I had a pair of WA408A tubes and what a difference it made. It is now almost in the same league of my Melos SHA gold pre-amp that are using 6DJ8 tubes. The Little Dot really shines with the 408A tubes and now works very well with the computer setup I have.


----------



## roker

anyone try modding this amp?

 I'd like a better pot and perhaps a dedicated power supply

 would that be hard or nearly impossible?

 Could I just use something like this for the power supply or is it more complicated than that?

http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-PS3-3-...=24MZHX1CO9HZ0


----------



## shamu144

I am looking forward to buying either a LD I+ or LD MKIII to use for fun with my Beyer DT48E (25 ohms) and Sony CD900ST (63 ohms). In both cases, I will use a 100 ohms adapter to match source impedance of 120 ohms as recommended by Beyer.

 The question I have not been able to answer despite reading almost the entire thread (and the tube rolling one as well), is if the LD I+ retains all the characteristic smooth/liquid sound of tubes (immediately recognized), or if it has more of a solid state sound. I am not after tubey sound or coloration, but just after smoothness/sliky sound of tubes... I already owned a LD MKIII in the past as well as a Manley Stingray, and I am somehow missing them...

 Thanks for your help.


----------



## john57

I had a solid state headphone amp in past and the first thing that came in mind about my LD I+ was the smoothness of the sound. I never have the MKIII and can not compare with the sound. You have quite a range of tubes and op-amps that can be switched in the LD I+. I do not think you will need the 100 ohms adapter with the LD I+ since its headphone impedance is low.


----------



## shamu144

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *john57* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had a solid state headphone amp in past and the first thing that came in mind about my LD I+ was the smoothness of the sound. I never have the MKIII and can not compare with the sound. You have quite a range of tubes and op-amps that can be switched in the LD I+. I do not think you will need the 100 ohms adapter with the LD I+ since its headphone impedance is low._

 

Thanks ! Definitely sounds good to me. I couldn't wait more and just place my order for the LD 1+ with WE408A tubes (through a European distributor, since Little Dot is not fully back to work yet). I have also ordered a pair of matched Mullard M8100 and M8161. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll let you know. 

 pd: I will only use the adapter with the Beyer DT48 because they are intended to be driven from a nominal source impedance of 120 ohms for optimal performance.


----------



## thebasso

I listen to my d2000's regularly on my 1+. Good as Grado. The tubes don't seem to be an issue.


----------



## maverickronin

So is the general consensus that the I+ doesn't work well with high impedance 'phones?  The specs say its good up to 600 ohms but some times spec can be overly optimistic.  Anyone have personal experience with the I+ and 'phones like the HD650 or the 600 ohm Beyers?


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> So is the general consensus that the I+ doesn't work well with high impedance 'phones?  The specs say its good up to 600 ohms but some times spec can be overly optimistic.  Anyone have personal experience with the I+ and 'phones like the HD650 or the 600 ohm Beyers?


 


 You might want to inquire David about this.


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> You might want to inquire David about this.


 

 OTL amps for senns. I wouldn't buy senns until I had something capable of driving what the I+ does into 32ohms, into 300ohms.


----------



## honmashinsei

I'm thinking of buying the NuForce uDAC-2 and this little amp. I have Alessandro MS-1i's and planning to buy Denon D2000 some time later.
   
  This is supposed to be a pretty decent budget setup, right? What tubes would be best for this setup? I listen mainly to indie/alternative rock, and electronic music (minimal/techno, dubstep, IDM).
   
  Thanks!


----------



## jr41

I just placed an order for the I+ via eBay. I want to hear this "tube sound" for myself and I figured this should be a good way to do it without spending lots of money. I'm going to pair it with my Sennheiser HD-25 II and NuForce uDAC. I ordered it with stock tubes which I'll use until it is burned in. This should give me ample opportunity to get used to the sound signature and then I'm going to have some fun rolling opamps and tubes to see what difference they make to the sound.
   
  It was a pleasure to experience David's excellent customer service for myself. He was honest (recommending the I+ over the MK II - which is more expensive, as the better pairing with the HD-25 due to its lower impedance), helpful and lightening fast with his replies.
   
  I'll post again with my initial impressions, and later on when it's burned in.


----------



## Aynjell

One thing I can say is sound signature isn't really native to this amp. Once you change tubes and op amp it sounds completely different. I can't find anything with this amp personally that sounds the same once you change those things out. That's a good thing though, if you ask me. You can get this thing sounding perfect powering low imp cans because it can morph so much. =)


----------



## Kawai_man

I use to own this little amp, I was never happy with it even after I changed the tubes to some western electrics 408a, I always thought it sounded kind of muddy and veiled it did add some weight to the sound but this wasn't enough for me to like it, I preferred to listen to my headphones straight from my computer most of the time.
   
  Now I know a little more about electronics, I think that this is just a solid state amp with a tube buffer, so the tubes are added after the solid state amplification to add coloring to the sound but this also takes clarity away, this does give you a taste of what tubes sound like the same way eating frozen milk would gives you a taste of what real ice cream taste like, I would just get the little dot mk ii which I a real tube amp and is not that much more, which is what I wish I would have done.
   
  I've owned some solid state and tube amps since then and these always sounded better than the little dot i+, anyways now I don't use amplification I just use my Ultrasone Hfi-2400's (soon to be replaced with Pro 2900's) which sound fantastic straight from pretty much any source  and I dont feel the need to amplify them they have all the detail and weight and realism to the sound that I need and sound better than many other headphones sound with amps


----------



## jr41

So, as per my previous post, I placed an order for the little dot I+ via e-bay on 15/08 and began the patient wait to receive my first (hybrid) tube amplifier. I received a useful e-mail from David that evening setting my expectations RE delivery etc. David said to wait 3-6 business days for processing and a tracking number. Sure enough, on 22/08, I received another e-mail with my shipping ref. Then, to my surprise, my amplifier arrived the next day!
   
  To give you a bit of context, my previous setup consisted of the uDAC > Sennheiser HD 25-II. Now the I+ sits between them and I'm using the uDAC purely as a DAC (oh and I brought some £3 OFC shielded RCA interconnects off ebay). See my sig/profile for more detail RE my setup.
   
  I think I've got around 8 hours of listening on the amp so far. The change in sound by introducing the LD I+ into the mix - instead of using the uDAC headphone out - is subtle. I've noticed a tinge greater warmth, smoothness and space. Treble harshness (experienced previously when listening to Joni Mitchell's Blue, for example) has been tamed. Those are really the only observations I feel confident making at this stage. I suspect I may have lost a hair of detail, this is especially apparent during the first half-hour or so of listening, while the amp warms up.
   
  The consensus RE the uDAC appears to be that the headphone amp section is on the warm side, and given the LD I+ isn't a true tube amplifier as I understand it - incorporating a SS element, may account for the subtly of change. That, and the fact it doesn't have many hours on it, and I'm running the stock tubes.
   
  Once warmed up I can hear a humming noise (though not with headphones on) emanating from the amp. With the uDac's volume knob set at 3 O'clock, 9 O'clock on the LD I+ is too loud, but there is plenty of room for adjustment in this range. Cranking the LD I+ volume all the way up reveals no hiss whatsoever to my ears.
   
  I wasn't expecting to be blown away by the LD I+ - especially given it's price and hybrid design (I'm not saying hybrid amps are inherently bad, I just didn't expect it to be worlds apart from other SS amps, vs. pure tube perhaps), and I'm not at this point in time. I'm certainly happy enough with it to keep it in the chain and I look forward to any improvements resulting from further burn-in. I will also be experimenting with better tubes and opamps of course; I've just started working my way though the LD I+ tube rolling thread. I'll post any further changes I observe.
   
  A couple of pics of the LD I+ in situ:
   
​   
​


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





jr41 said:


> So, as per my previous post, I placed an order for the little dot I+ via e-bay on 15/08 and began the patient wait to receive my first (hybrid) tube amplifier. I received a useful e-mail from David that evening setting my expectations RE delivery etc. David said to wait 3-6 business days for processing and a tracking number. Sure enough, on 22/08, I received another e-mail with my shipping ref. Then, to my surprise, my amplifier arrived the next day!
> 
> To give you a bit of context, my previous setup consisted of the uDAC > Sennheiser HD 25-II. Now the I+ sits between them and I'm using the uDAC purely as a DAC (oh and I brought some £3 OFC shielded RCA interconnects off ebay). See my sig/profile for more detail RE my setup.
> 
> ...


 

 Throw in some LT1364CN8 OPA and be amazed, the stock one is just crap. Also, replace those stock tubes with WE408A.


----------



## Aynjell

So is the LT1364CN8. It has more sibilance than a room full of pissed off cats.
   
  @jr41, try a power cable minus the ground prong. If the humming noise goes away you got a ground loop. =(
   
  This amp seems very susceptible to the. I myself had to pretty much buy an optical dac to get an elegant solution to the issue. But thankfully I got the perfect audio setup for my needs. =)
   
  X-Fi (for gaming, music, movies, etc) -> MiniDAC (SMSL) -> I+ -> SR325i/Shure SRH840
   
  As of right now, both op amp slots in amp and dac have the OPA2107 in it, which is just a phenominal op amp. But a bit pricey. I managed to get 2 for 10$. =)
   
  Tubes are M8083. Of all the setups I've tried they are the least fatiguing and I can't hear any sibilance or any other wierd issues. I tried the LME49720 (hell I bought 4 of 'em just in case) and still didn't like anything besides the 2107.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





aynjell said:


> So is the LT1364CN8. It has more sibilance than a room full of pissed off cats.


 

 Well, that is like your own opinion, man.


----------



## jr41

@reiserFS and Aynjell,
   
  Thanks for your advice guys, it's appreciated. I'm working my way through the LD I+ tube/opamp rolling thread and both the LT1364 opamp and WE408A tubes are favorably mentioned there.
   
  The humming noise is from the amp itself, it's not coming from the headphones. As I understand it, ground loop is only audible from the headphones? I've read up a little about it and it appears it's the transformer that is humming, which apparently isn't uncommon and nothing to worry about (though I will look into it a little further to be sure). Also, it's only an intermittent thing.


----------



## genclaymore

Have any one tried this with a pair of AKG 701/702s. i saw this on ebay also when I was looking at a standalone amp for the future.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





genclaymore said:


> Have any one tried this with a pair of AKG 701/702s. i saw this on ebay also when I was looking at a standalone amp for the future.


 
  Not sure if I have posted my opinion about that combo in this thread yet, but the LD I+ does a wonderful job for the K701/K702 with the LT1364 and WE408 / Mullard Tubes. If you're looking at a budget build, this probably is it.


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Well, that is like your own opinion, man.


 


 I'd be inclined to disagree and note that sibilance is pretty measurable. The rest of the qualities of the LT1364 are enjoyable, but the sibilance is a deal breaker. A BIG back of pissed off feline dealbreakers.
  
  Quote: 





jr41 said:


> @reiserFS and Aynjell,
> 
> Thanks for your advice guys, it's appreciated. I'm working my way through the LD I+ tube/opamp rolling thread and both the LT1364 opamp and WE408A tubes are favorably mentioned there.
> 
> The humming noise is from the amp itself, it's not coming from the headphones. As I understand it, ground loop is only audible from the headphones? I've read up a little about it and it appears it's the transformer that is humming, which apparently isn't uncommon and nothing to worry about (though I will look into it a little further to be sure). Also, it's only an intermittent thing.


 
   
  I want to point out my amp doesn't make any sound. I would check with davidzhezhe on this. And jr41, we've had a LOT of flavors of the week.
   
  The only thing that's stuck around is the OPA2107 (for me), and that being said I'm probably going to upgrade to what it's supposed to be mostly, the opa637 or whatever. if that opa is just MORE... then I want it, regardless of price.


----------



## loopfreak

Does anyone knows how LDI+ stacks to Heed Canamp if they are used with k702 ?


----------



## genclaymore

Is there a way to use it where your just using the SS thats in it and not the tubes. Or when your using it you have to use both the tube and the SS together?


----------



## Aynjell

The tubes are basically there for flavor. The ss part handles the actual amplification.
   
  That's the way I understand it anyway.


----------



## Suigeneris

Hey Aynjell, did you get around to trying out the opa637?


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





suigeneris said:


> Hey Aynjell, did you get around to trying out the opa637?


 

 Nope not yet, but anybody believe this is real?
   
  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=350390352506&Category=36331&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2


----------



## Suigeneris

I've seen them for 18.04 from TI


----------



## Suigeneris

Here's a link, ARROW electronics is the company selling it.
 If you end up buying it make sure to let us know, I'm barely going to
  try out the 2107 in my LD
   
  http://app.arrownac.com/aws/pg_webc/0,1086,,00.html?application=SEARCH&event=1009&search_token=OPA637AP&search_criteria=match_begins_with&match_in_stock_only=NO&=&rows_to_display=10&limit=10&full_domain_name=app.arrownac.com&super_neda=&start_index=0&search_type=click_through


----------



## Aynjell

I just ordered. It's supposed to be the OPA2107's bigger brother from what I hear, and I can handle 22$. Let's see how it goes when I get it. If it's the big brother I'll undoubtedly love it. I bought the ebay one, doubtful it's real but I was doubtful about my opa2107 too... I got 2 for 9.99. That ebay auction is for 2 with the adapter. Basically, a plug and play dual op amp based on OPA637's. I'll have to bring my gain up to 7 though. 
   
  Also, now that I hear the K701/702 is awesome with this amp (the specs basically are textbook example of K702 amp from hell) I'm gonna have to get a pair. 
   
  Question is, upgrade my DAC to a Little Dot DAC I or a pair of K701/702 first?


----------



## Suigeneris

Quite a predicament with your headphones, well I'm (going to be) running my I+ from a DAC_II
 If you really want that k70x go for it!

 2 in one? I didn't see that, have you tried doing a two in one inside the LD I+ before?
 I'm still new to OPA swapping so you'll have to forgive my noobiness if this is quite common.
  What do you get from two OPA's in one other than having to boost the gain?

 And...the fake test would be whether they sound good or not?


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





suigeneris said:


> Quite a predicament with your headphones, well I'm (going to be) running my I+ from a DAC_II
> If you really want that k70x go for it!
> 
> 2 in one? I didn't see that, have you tried doing a two in one inside the LD I+ before?
> ...


 
   
  Yep. And you don't necessarily gain anything, the reason you need two OPA 637's is they're single channel. Same package as a dual op amp, but only a single channel product.
   
  The reason you have to boost the gain is because the 637 isn't stable under 5 gain.
   
  Two op amps on an adapter should be fine. There's enough room there, the only concern I'd have is the possible conflict is with the capacitors near to the socket. I forget their exact positioning...
   
  http://www.littledot.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=819
   
  Were the pictures still accurate, they won't interfere and there should be more than enough room to cram the adapter and op amps into.


----------



## Lazerboy2000

I've read through most of this thread but haven't seen any real comparisons to other tube amps. How would this compare to the MKII, say with having the upgraded 408A tubes for the i+ and stock MKII tubes? I have MS-1i and Etymotic MC-5s and mostly listen to classic rock and jazz/ big band. Is it worth the extra $30-40 for the MKII?


----------



## REDH0RN

Guess it depends on your  phones. David at LD seems to think that for low impedance cans that require fair amounts of current the I+ is a good match. The II is a little more versatile. See PM coming your way.


----------



## Aynjell

I'd wager the ety's would sound like garbage on a stick from the LD I+. However the MS1i would sound amazing. The I+ is the perfect amp for the MS1i.


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Quote: 





redh0rn said:


> Guess it depends on your  phones. David at LD seems to think that for low impedance cans that require fair amounts of current the I+ is a good match. The II is a little more versatile. See PM coming your way.


 

 Thanks a lot for the info!!


----------



## roker

Is there anything I can do about the super bright blue LED on this thing?
   
  If I had to think of one major flaw it'd be this.  It drives me nuts.
   
  Can I mod it?  Can I change it?  I'm thinking of opening it up and just snipping it out of there, but I'm hopeful there's an easy and cheap way to "fix" this.  How hard would it be to replace it with a duller blue LED?


----------



## lazybum

Quote: 





roker said:


> Is there anything I can do about the super bright blue LED on this thing?
> 
> If I had to think of one major flaw it'd be this.  It drives me nuts.
> 
> Can I mod it?  Can I change it?  I'm thinking of opening it up and just snipping it out of there, but I'm hopeful there's an easy and cheap way to "fix" this.  How hard would it be to replace it with a duller blue LED?


 

 Erm paste a masking tape over it? Those papery kind so that you can still see if its on or not.


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





roker said:


> Is there anything I can do about the super bright blue LED on this thing?
> 
> If I had to think of one major flaw it'd be this.  It drives me nuts.
> 
> Can I mod it?  Can I change it?  I'm thinking of opening it up and just snipping it out of there, but I'm hopeful there's an easy and cheap way to "fix" this.  How hard would it be to replace it with a duller blue LED?


 
  If some led or less led is better gently push it inward.


----------



## roker

Quote: 





lazybum said:


> Erm paste a masking tape over it? Those papery kind so that you can still see if its on or not.


 

 well, I don't want it to look crappy.
   
  I was hoping there's a way to make it look better without resorting to covering it up with something.


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





roker said:


> well, I don't want it to look crappy.
> 
> I was hoping there's a way to make it look better without resorting to covering it up with something.


 

 I just say push it inward, slightly.


----------



## roker

Quote: 





aynjell said:


> I just say push it inward, slightly.


 

 hmmmmmm ... that might work
   
  I'll find out tonight


----------



## roker

Pushing it in works well for the time being, but I think I know what to do now.  I need to open the amp then slide in a piece of stained glass in between the light and the case.  I think anything thin and flat like that will work to kind of tint and tone it down.  Pushing it in definitely helped though.


----------



## Aynjell

I'm pretty much done tweaking mine. The only thing I'm entertaining at the moment is the dual OPA637 I ordered. If that works out, then great. If not, oh well. Well, done tweaking the amp anyway. I still see cause to upgrade my DAC. It's sort of a bandaid until I can afford better.
   
  So far, here are my mods:
   
  Mullard M8083 tubes: These are easily my favourite tubes, in conjunction with the op amp in use. Thing is, the current setup is compatible with every can I own. My Sony's bass don't go overboard, the Audio Technica gains bass, clarity, and warmth that it never had before (it completely transforms), my grados gain just a slight bit of warmth but don't lose anything, and My shures just sound plain neutral. The amp setup is just... good. I don't really know of a way to explain it other than it's probably another potential stock config that davidzhezhe should be investigating. It doesn't have any negative side affects with any cans I've tried with it and only seems to bring out the best in whatever's plugged into it.
   
  Burr Brown OPA2107: A bit expensive but worth the money. Still looking at the OPA637 coming in the mail but if that falls through, it's really okay. What I got now is satisfying, but there's that part of me that wants the dual OPA637 to absolutely destroy the OPA2107. Fingers crossed!
   
  Peek HAL-O tube dampers (7): These are pretty good, and the results are clear. While I can't claim or disclaim audible differences in the way the output sound is, what I can tell you is it reduces microphonics by a great deal. I caught them onsale at 9.97 a piece, and that was a steal for what they do. Thing is, they help avoid that ringing noise you get if you tap your desk, or what have you. Placement is crucial from what I can tell, and each tube is different. It's like a witch hunt finding the spot, and a lot of smashing keys on my mechanical keyboard or tapping on my desk. I look like a retard setting these up, but the result is worth it, in that I get less vibration induced microphonics. At current pricing of 50$ a pair, I'd say it's the last upgrade you should be doing, but maybe before higher end interconnects at least that's the order I'm going through. What you need to figure out for yourselves is a) do you have that annoying ass ringing sound, and b) does it bother you enough to spend whatever herbie's asking? Just get the next upgrade in this list. Alternatively, and while I haven't tested this others have with good results: O rings. Apparently if you go to the autozone or what have you with your tube odds are you can walk out with some o rings that'll do the job. Find some that are just tight enough to put up a bit of a fight when putting 'em on. Remember, these are expensive light bulbs, and are fragile so you don't want the hulks death grip, just something that'll stiffen 'em up.
   
  BBB Cork Coasters: These go a bit further and seem to knock out the last little bit of vibration based noise the dampers don't catch. Sum of the parts, I guess. I bought a pack of these to use as coasters. Luckily, 3 left after they got packed away... found them in my kitchen when hunting through my home for something to reduce vibration and man do they work for what I wanted 'em to do. Now my amp doesn't really misbehave no matter what I'm doing. I still get microphonics off the headphone cable moving around or when I touch the volume knob, but from what I can tell, this is unavoidable. Basically, 8$ for a pack, you get some nice coasters and some good anti-vibration cork for your kit. And in my experience and having a good way to test for it, I was able to eliminate the last bit of noise with these. Awesome (free to me since I had 'em) tweak.
   
  Next step, and most likely the last: Blue jeans cables. I'm really satisfied with how I grew as an audiophile with this amp. It taught me key things to look at with tube amps, what to listen for when rolling tubes or testing cans, and many other things I can't even think of with this amp. I suppose I could still start replacing caps or something, but I'm not really up for it. If somebody ends up listing some more mods that have 100% improvements towards clarity or resolution I might.


----------



## REDH0RN

Quote: 





>


 
  Burr Brown OPA2107: A bit expensive but worth the money.
   
  Is Burr Brown the only manufacturer of this OPAMP? I got a couple for relatively cheap. Also a couple Mullard M8083's at 2450 and 2400 that are supposedly matched. Is this good? Lastly have a new 5 ft RAM Electronics cable RCA cable for my iPod that also has USB so I can charge while enjoying music. Now all I need is *my I+ !*
   
_Yes I am quite the novice ;~)_


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





redh0rn said:


> Burr Brown OPA2107: A bit expensive but worth the money.
> 
> Is Burr Brown the only manufacturer of this OPAMP? I got a couple for relatively cheap. Also a couple Mullard M8083's at 2450 and 2400 that are supposedly matched. Is this good? Lastly have a new 5 ft RAM Electronics cable RCA cable for my iPod that also has USB so I can charge while enjoying music. Now all I need is *my I+ !*
> 
> _Yes I am quite the novice ;~)_


 
   
  Yes, op amps are like cars. Only ford may make one car, and possibly might have other companies make it but it's usually the same family of companies (ie. ford, lincoln, mercury).  M8083 are my favourite tubes, and if you can get 'em for 24$, I say go for it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  And yes, get you an I+ if your headphones work well with it. It's designed for low impedance headphones (pretty much anything under 100ohm).


----------



## REB

Anyone using the ldI+ to amp a w1000? I'm impressed by the results myself.


----------



## REB

I'm having some trouble with my ldI+. There is an irritating buzz in both channels. I first thought it was interference (ld amps are notoriously sensitive to this apparently), but I'm not sure. It is reduced when I touch the amp. With my low impedance aths the buzz is quite bad, but i can't hear it using my k500s. Also, the buzz all but disappears when I use an impedance adaptor (75 ohm). Does anyone have an idea? Are my tubes dying? Don't hope so, because they're sylvania golds and i'm very fond of them...


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





reb said:


> I'm having some trouble with my ldI+. There is an irritating buzz in both channels. I first thought it was interence (ld amps are notoriously sensitive to this apparently), but I'm not sure. It is reduced when I touch the amp. With my low impedance aths the buzz is quite bad, but i can't hear it using my k500s. Also, the buzz all but disappears when I use an impedance adaptor (75 ohm). Does anyone have an idea? Are my tubes dying? Don't hope so, because they sylvania golds and i'm very fond of them...


 

 If it disappears upon touching the amp then there is an electrical problem most likely involving ground. The first thing I'd check is whether or not you're experiencing a ground loop. What is your whole audio chain like?


----------



## REB

I was thinking a ground problem myself. I've just removed the amp from a very simple set-up: cpd->amp (it had the buzz then as well). Now it is slightly more complicated: computer (spdif) -> dac -> output selector -> ldI+. same buzz in this set-up.
   
  what is a ground loop btw?


----------



## genclaymore

Quote: 





aynjell said:


> Burr Brown OPA2107: A bit expensive but worth the money. Still looking at the OPA637 coming in the mail but if that falls through, it's really okay. What I got now is satisfying, but there's that part of me that wants the dual OPA637 to absolutely destroy the OPA2107. Fingers crossed!


 

 is Those OPA2107 Dual channel op-amps or single channel?.


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





reb said:


> I was thinking a ground problem myself. I've just removed the amp from a very simple set-up: cpd->amp (it had the buzz then as well). Now it is slightly more complicated: computer (spdif) -> dac -> output selector -> ldI+. same buzz in this set-up.
> 
> what is a ground loop btw?


 

 If you have it plugged in with power on but no input signal does it act like this? If it does, contact Davidzhezhe, this is a warranty issue that needs to be addressed.
   
  Exactly what a ground loop is, I cannot say without probably saying something wrong... per wikipedia:
   
  In an electrical system, a *ground loop* usually refers to a current, generally unwanted, in a conductor connecting two points that are supposed to be at the same potential, often ground, but are actually at different potentials. Ground loops created by improperly designed or improperly installed equipment are a major cause of noise and interference in audio and video systems. They can also create an electric shock hazard, since ostensibly "grounded" parts of the equipment, which are often accessible to users, are not at ground potential.
   
  Basically, ground isn't going the right direction or there are multiple paths to ground. In audio this shouldn't happen. As an additional example, on my amp plugged directly into an X-FI I get a ground loop. If I remove the ground prong from my amps power cord it goes away. Best I can figure is the ground from the entire PC was running through my amp for whatever stupid reason. Creative is a bunch of retards I swear. (it's a creative problem, I'd believe not a Little Dot problem). It doesn't happen with battery powered amps, but then again they don't have access to the mains power.
   
  Perhaps an expensive fix, but a DAC resolved this issue for me and now I use optical X-Fi to SMSL dac.


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





genclaymore said:


> is Those OPA2107 Dual channel op-amps or single channel?.


 
   
  Yes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The 637's I'm waiting on are not, they require two for dual use, with an adapter in this case.


----------



## REDH0RN

*Quote:*
   
*And yes, get you an I+ if your headphones work well with it. It's designed for low impedance headphones (pretty much anything under 100ohm).*
   
  What about the 120 Ohm 601's? Would the LD II be better with those?


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





redh0rn said:


> *Quote:*
> 
> *And yes, get you an I+ if your headphones work well with it. It's designed for low impedance headphones (pretty much anything under 100ohm).*
> 
> What about the 120 Ohm 601's? Would the LD II be better with those?


 

 That's on teh fence, but I'd ask davidzhezhe. Per the documentation, for those cans it's a toss up between the I+ and the IV. I'd wager the IV would sound better, however for the same amount of money. I've spent probably close to 400$ on op amps, tubes, and other mods for this amp. The IV would probably best the I+ with those cans stock, I'd wager. However with my mods, who knows. :\
   
  A 2107 is about 12$, the I+ is about 150$ shipped, and the tubes I use are about 25 to 30 depending on how you order 'em. My dampers are 50$ currently, so right there you're already at about 250$. if they're you're only cans, I'd say buy the IV and then be able to upgrade to Senn's later if that's your bag. The question really is what will you invest more into, lower imp cans, or higher imp cans? Lower: I+, Higher: MK II, MK III, or MK IV. Your choice on the latter, or you could even go elsewhere... but what I'm seeing, power wise it's a toss up.


----------



## REB

Quote: 





aynjell said:


> If you have it plugged in with power on but no input signal does it act like this? If it does, contact Davidzhezhe, this is a warranty issue that needs to be addressed.
> 
> Exactly what a ground loop is, I cannot say without probably saying something wrong... per wikipedia:
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks for the info. I'm afraid my warranty has expired. I've owned it for two years or so. Even without an input signal, the buzz is there. It can't be fixed by a dac in my case, because I'm using one. I'll have to see what I can do about it. It's a darn shame, because the w1000s sounded like heaven from the ldI+! I'll stick with the k500s for now and try some tube-rolling tonight, see whether it is an oxidation problem.


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





reb said:


> Thanks for the info. I'm afraid my warranty has expired. I've owned it for two years or so. Even without an input signal, the buzz is there. It can't be fixed by a dac in my case, because I'm using one. I'll have to see what I can do about it. It's a darn shame, because the w1000s sounded like heaven from the ldI+! I'll stick with the k500s for now and try some tube-rolling tonight, see whether it is an oxidation problem.


 
  Make sure all the panel mount stuff at the back are tightened down nicely. Make sure they sit flush and snug. Then try it again.


----------



## REB

I rolled the tubes (back to the western electric 408a) and the buzz is all but gone. There is the faintest buzz when there is no input, but that's it. Sadly, the mesmerizing sylvania sound is also gone....


----------



## Suigeneris

Soon, I'll be getting the W1000X and use it with my LDI+. I'm assuming the results would be good as well.
 What does the LDI+ do for your W1000?
  Quote: 





reb said:


> Anyone using the ldI+ to amp a w1000? I'm impressed by the results myself.


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





reb said:


> I rolled the tubes (back to the western electric 408a) and the buzz is all but gone. There is the faintest buzz when there is no input, but that's it. Sadly, the mesmerizing sylvania sound is also gone....


 

 What did you have before?


----------



## REB

sylvania gold 408a


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





reb said:


> sylvania gold 408a


 

 I've never been a fan of those to be honest, but if it's doing what you described than the the tubes are defective. If you want another pair that I know work with mine perfectly, let me know and we can work out a deal for them. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Are you 100% sure the jumpers were set correctly? Did changing the gain setting help at all?
   
  (They are sylvania gold, not gold pin)


----------



## REB

Quote: 





aynjell said:


> I've never been a fan of those to be honest, but if it's doing what you described than the the tubes are defective. If you want another pair that I know work with mine perfectly, let me know and we can work out a deal for them.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Well, they were my favorite tubes, but I'd rather have them gone than the amp. I am interested in a deal for another pair though!
   
  The gain settings are correct. i didn't change them after I got the amp, i've always used tubes from this family. and I think I have about a thousand hours on these tubes. I would have noticed before if the gain settings had not been correct.


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





reb said:


> Well, they were my favorite tubes, but I'd rather have them gone than the amp. I am interested in a deal for another pair though!
> 
> The gain settings are correct. i didn't change them after I got the amp, i've always used tubes from this family. and I think I have about a thousand hours on these tubes. I would have noticed before if the gain settings had not been correct.


 

 Awesome, send me a PM if you want. These tubes I'd guestimate probably somewhere under 1000 hours but not sure where exactly as they've had a few owners. To my knowledge, the guy who sold 'em to me got 'em from the guy who started the craze of the 408A, so they're broke in and have probably 700-800 hours on them.


----------



## REB

Quote: 





suigeneris said:


> Soon, I'll be getting the W1000X and use it with my LDI+. I'm assuming the results would be good as well.
> What does the LDI+ do for your W1000?


 

 Well, with the old sylvania 408a tubes the w1000 sounded very lush with good bass, sound was on the warm side. Good detail, immersive sound, treble extension was not everything it could be. Now with the western electric 08a tubes, the sound sig is more neutral, bass is good but not as impactful as before. treble extension is better though. There is a hard to define vintagey sound to the western electrics. Overall I prefer the sylvania's. What tubes are you using?


----------



## Suigeneris

Currently using the ef92 tubes and I have a 2107 op amp on the way


----------



## Trapper32

Have you tried cleaning the pins of the Sylvania's with DeOxit?  Not sure of the history of your tubes but  I'd give that a try before giving up on the tubes altho I admit its a long shot.  
  
  Quote: 





reb said:


> Well, they were my favorite tubes, but I'd rather have them gone than the amp. I am interested in a deal for another pair though!
> 
> The gain settings are correct. i didn't change them after I got the amp, i've always used tubes from this family. and I think I have about a thousand hours on these tubes. I would have noticed before if the gain settings had not been correct.


----------



## REB

Quote: 





trapper32 said:


> Have you tried cleaning the pins of the Sylvania's with DeOxit?  Not sure of the history of your tubes but  I'd give that a try before giving up on the tubes altho I admit its a long shot.


 
   
  I haven't done that yet for lack of deoxit, but will give it a try!


----------



## Aynjell

And just when I started to praise them the M8083 get really hally and reverby, and the highs start cutting into my head. Back to M8161, warmth, smoothness, bloated bass. :\
   
  Not sure why the tubes morphed into that, but they do. Plus they became the most microphonic lil' suckers I've ever used. SOmething about them really changed, and also they started getting really hot. Probably twice as hot as the M8161's get.


----------



## REB

That sucks! have they played that many hours already?


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





reb said:


> That sucks! have they played that many hours already?


 

 Not enough to be dead, but enough to be burning in still or be done buring in. I'll give it a week and see what comes of it.


----------



## ShenaRingo326

i've just joined the LD I+ party with OPA2107 and WE408A installed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  1 of my WE408A had no sound.. i had extras and the next one that i swapped in worked.. likely to be a dead tube?


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





shenaringo326 said:


> i've just joined the LD I+ party with OPA2107 and WE408A installed
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Yes, if you replace the tube and the sound comes back that's all we can assume, however you could try cleaning the pins... though I don't know if the amp is prepared to operate correctly with bad tubes. Tube amps are funny animals. I would clean the tubes with a wire brush, and then deoxit, then tube brush. (wire brush being abrasive enough to really clean off all the tarnish)
   
  I don't reccomend a wire brush for gold plated pins as it will likely remove the gold plating.


----------



## ShenaRingo326

hi,
   
  i did some light cleaning with q tips and MG super contact cleaner (same idea as deoxit, but available locally) when i received the tubes, but the condition of the pins on all the tubes looked the same.. i bought 4, with 2 in the amp now and 1 with no sound (so far) and 1 that i haven't tried yet as one of the pins is slightly bent one way... can i gently bend the pin back with pliers?
   
  i'm not in a hurry to replace the existing 2 tubes as they work fine and i'm just gonna listen to it more first..
   
  thanks!
  
  Quote: 





aynjell said:


> Yes, if you replace the tube and the sound comes back that's all we can assume, however you could try cleaning the pins... though I don't know if the amp is prepared to operate correctly with bad tubes. Tube amps are funny animals. I would clean the tubes with a wire brush, and then deoxit, then tube brush. (wire brush being abrasive enough to really clean off all the tarnish)
> 
> I don't reccomend a wire brush for gold plated pins as it will likely remove the gold plating.


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





shenaringo326 said:


> hi,
> 
> i did some light cleaning with q tips and MG super contact cleaner (same idea as deoxit, but available locally) when i received the tubes, but the condition of the pins on all the tubes looked the same.. i bought 4, with 2 in the amp now and 1 with no sound (so far) and 1 that i haven't tried yet as one of the pins is slightly bent one way... can i gently bend the pin back with pliers?
> 
> ...


 
  I personally believe pliars are a bad idea s they will rough up the surface. They SHOULD be bendable enough to do so without pliars.


----------



## REDH0RN

*Quote:*


>


 
*I personally believe pliers are a bad idea since they will rough up the surface. They SHOULD be bendable enough to do so without pliers.*
   
  I finally got my order in for mine yesterday. Requested it without OPamp since I have a pair of BB 2107's ready to go. Have paranoia with thoughts of messing something up pulling out OPamp and tubes. I know tubes can safely and securely be removed and installed by hand. What about OPamp? I also got a pair of Mullard M8083's and plan to push them in from the _get go. _
   
  Basically trusting that the consensus is 2107 / 8083 combo yields better sonics than stock configuration.
   
  Anyone have favorable results with trying an aftermarket power cable? Also what about utilizing the Silver Star fuses?


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





redh0rn said:


> *I personally believe pliers are a bad idea since they will rough up the surface. They SHOULD be bendable enough to do so without pliers.*
> 
> I finally got my order in for mine yesterday. Requested it without OPamp since I have a pair of BB 2107's ready to go. Have paranoia with thoughts of messing something up pulling out OPamp and tubes. I know tubes can safely and securely be removed and installed by hand. What about OPamp? I also got a pair of Mullard M8083's and plan to push them in from the _get go. _
> 
> ...


 
   
  Op amps only gotcha is that the legs are NEVER bent correctly to be inserted into a socket first try. My suggestion is to take a straight surface that is hard that's easy to hold and bend from the outside in a bit, and the inside out a bit so that all the legs line up. Make sure they're straight, and gently insert the op amp. You may have to roll it around a bit, but make sure the the indent or dot lines up correctly. If there's a half circle, make sure the half circle is facing the same direction as the indentation on the socket.
   
  Once you get them in the first time and providing you store them by stabbing them into some foam.


----------



## REDH0RN

*Quote:*


>


 
*Once you get them in the first time and providing you storm them by stabbing them into some foam.*
   
_*?*_


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





redh0rn said:


> *Once you get them in the first time and providing you storm them by stabbing them into some foam.*
> 
> _*?*_


 

 Sorry, red STORE*. Providing you store them in such a way that the pins don't get bent (I for example just stab them into a block of foam), you'll have smooth rolling for the rest of the op amps lifetime.


----------



## Aynjell

Currently testing OPA637 + Sylvania Gold Brand 408A. It's such a big sound.


----------



## Aynjell

They run extraordinarily hot and introduce noise on my grados, but not on my shures. It seems they require a load that the 32 ohm cans don't offer (were I to guess based on the outcome). That or the I+ and it's desire to push lower impedance cans harder is driving the 637's far too hard. if I up the gain the noise gets worse. Again, this noise is not existent with the shures. That being said, it wasn't fantastic any way.


----------



## roker

I'm glad to see people still digging this amp.  I don't think I'm going to upgrade anytime soon.  It'll take a meltdown of some sort.  I might have just jinxed it.


----------



## Thran

Hello new to posting on head-fi I have been lurking for quite a while. I am looking to upgrade my headphones from AD700.
  My current setup is Foobar(mostly flac or 320kbp cbr mp3s) > E7 > Little Dot I+ hybrid with mullard m8083 OPA2107 > ad700
   
  What would be the best headphone to upgrade to for this amp under 300$? I have been considering the Grado 225s and AHD2000s
   
  I mostly listen to Big band, hiphop/rap, pop and trance. Things to note about the AD700 is I thought the bass was fine but the soundstage was a little off for some genres and instruments would seem all over the place.
  Other than that I liked the sound signature of the ad700s but not sure if the ad900s would be more of the same with the odd soundstage. I would prefer open headphones and that is the main reason I have not bought the AHD2000s as of yet.
   
   
  Edit: Another big thing I forgot to bring up is that I listen to my music very quietly compared to most.


----------



## Aynjell

Some actual notes on the Dual 637's. Lots of noise and sounds like it might be hurting my grados when my grados were plugged in. Also, the sound signature of it in the I+ isn't that great anyway. Things seemed nasally and like everything was shifted a step up. Back to OPA2107 (I still think this is the best sounding op amp in the I+).


----------



## Geir

Just bought a pair of mullard m8083 cv4014, and I think something is wrong ith them.
  Have to turn the sound up from around 9 to 12 to have the same sound level.
  In addition, the sound is not right, harsh and congested and hidden behind the veil.
   
  IS there something I can do with the tubes to correct this?


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





geir said:


> Just bought a pair of mullard m8083 cv4014, and I think something is wrong ith them.
> Have to turn the sound up from around 9 to 12 to have the same sound level.
> In addition, the sound is not right, harsh and congested and hidden behind the veil.
> 
> IS there something I can do with the tubes to correct this?


 

 Turn the amp off, make sure all the jumpers are in the right place.


----------



## Aynjell

What's surprising is I've come full circle back to the 6JI's after putting a DAC between my sound card and amp. Funny thing is, it was voiced against the X-Fi. Were it plugged into the analog port it'd sound grand, but out of a dac, best setup is the stock 6JI tubes. Didn't roll opa's, but just the tubes alone surprised me. :\


----------



## Geir

Quote: 





aynjell said:


> Turn the amp off, make sure all the jumpers are in the right place.


 

 Hmm, yeah, anyone that has a copy of the reference guide in pdf format ,and could paste it here (included the photos, as I am a ...... noob regarding this, never ever having opened my LDI+ before)


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





geir said:


> Hmm, yeah, anyone that has a copy of the reference guide in pdf format ,and could paste it here (included the photos, as I am a ...... noob regarding this, never ever having opened my LDI+ before)


 
   
  This _SHOULD_ work.
   
  >>> CLICKY <<<


----------



## Geir

Quote: 





aynjell said:


> This _SHOULD_ work.
> 
> >>> CLICKY <<<


 
   
   
  Thank you


----------



## Aynjell

I've found that OPA2107 + Sylvania GB408A are really good too. The only thing is highs are really rolled off. I am not sure if this is with any op amp or just this combo. It's a bit hard to get used to but makes a very warm, fuzzy experience. My Shure SRH840's don't really like it but I bet treble heavy cans like my SR325i would love it. I need to try those but right now I'm enjoying a bit of warmth. Well, kind of enjoying. Hard to explain. There's that nagging that keeps saying "Where the hell is the treble?"
   
  I still have no clue what happened with my M8083, they just sorta stopped sounding good. And they started completely losing track of themselves in busy passes. Like... system of a down would kick their butt. It was really wierd. And all this started happening right after I hyped them. I now know why FOTM happens. You speak just 2 minutes too soon. To anybody who bought the M8083 because of my suggestion, I'm sorry and I hope your tubes continue to sound as it did when I enjoyed it... though I will say I used them since I bought 'em. (looks like february 25th, so maybe 10 days later I put 'em in. Almost 7 months of constant use (which is probably nearing the 1400 hours mark). I'd say, just to be a bit fairer about it, that's probably more like 1200 hours, but that's a lot of time to put on a pair of tubes, I'd wager. I think I can understand why they started acting up. I think next paycheck I'll buy another set and see if the ones I had just died or not.
   
  I think very least I owe it to myself to see if I had some kind of FOTM disease (but for that long?)
   
  The OPA2107 were bought early june, so that was 3 months with that combo. I haven't enjoyed anything in my life that long I don't think. :\


----------



## lessblue

This is the exact combo I am using with my LDI+, OPA2107 + Sylvania GB408A and I enjoy it very much.


----------



## analogue 3

I've just placed my order for this and am currently researching which RCA cables to get. My setup will be Optical out from soundcard>Cambridge Audio DAC Magic>RCA interconnects to LIttle Dot I+>LD I+> Ultrasone HFI-780.
   
  I have two prospective cables in the £50 range, one being Atlas Equator mkII and the other is QED Reference audio 1. Interestingly enough, although people tend to think silver is more expensive, the atlas desciption includes:
   
  Quote: 





> In a market where many similar interconnects are silver plated the Atlas Equator avoids this by using 99.99997% pure OFC copper alone. This provides the cable with an engaging sound that avoids the brightness often associated with silver plating that some listeners can find fatiguing.


 
   
  Whilst for a similar price, QED have gone for:
   
  Quote: 





> The Qed Reference Audio 1 stereo phono to phono interconnect features double screened, silver plated oxygen free braid


 
   
  Since the prices are identical, does anyone have any advice on what will sound best given my setup? There also seems to be conflicting info in the massive silver vs copper thread in the cable forum with some people saying silver is bright, whilst others say it's dark. I'm probably just getting confused due to being a novice still. Obviously Atlas Audio seem to think silver (plated) cables are bright and therefore fatiguing. The first post on the Silver vs Copper thread reads:
   
  Quote: 





> My question is due to the bassier, somewhat darker Denons & the warmth of the tube amp (both of which I like). Is it obvious that I should be going for silver cables to complement these other characteristics & not going towards even more warmth from the copper?


 
   
  So not sure what the definition of the sound signature of my 780s are since I'm new to this but someone else wrote this about pairing the i+ with the 780s:
   
  Quote: 





> Ultrasone HFI-780- Opened sound stage extremely wide, everything is warmer and smoothish,there is far more detail and precision, bass is more controlled, I can hear things that were hidden before, also vocals are much clearer.


 
   
  Any advice would be appreciated, thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Thanks


----------



## Aynjell

If you hear a difference, go the pure copper route. You don't need extra highs on this amp.


----------



## analogue 3

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I can't wait to see if I can hear a difference since I need to get the cable before the I+ arrives. Anyway, I happened to be passing my local audio store today which stocks both and decided to go with the copper Atlas Equator MkII cable since I've been quite happy with the one which I have feeding into my amp so far. Someone else with a similar setup to me also said that copper would probably be the best bet so that makes 2 in favour of copper.
   
  It seems like QED gets mixed reviews from time to time by users, but Atlas Audio seems to only have positive reviews by and large by consumers (I'll discard the magazine reviews and awards which are positive for both due to media bias towards these big companies).
   
  I really hope I am one of the lucky people who seem to receive their Little Dot amps within 7 days 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Although I was given the standard 3-? days for testing and qc and 3/4-? days for transit via email notification which everyone else on this thread mentioned.


----------



## roker

my canare interconnects are oxidizing on the outside
   
  so much for paying a premium for garbage.
   
  I'm going to ebay and look for some decent replacements


----------



## REDH0RN

Quote: 





roker said:


> my canare interconnects are oxidizing on the outside
> 
> so much for paying a premium for garbage.
> 
> ...


----------



## roker

Quote: 





redh0rn said:


>


 


  I'll snap a pic for you tomorrow.


----------



## stratowhammy

does anyone know if the AD797 opamp, AD797BRZ opamp or anything in the AD797 family (fyi, i know very little about opamps, these might all be the same exact thing) are compatible with the circuitry of the little dot I+?  I would like to roll the opamps in mine, but I want to see here first whether I should buy them.  thanks


----------



## mmayer167

the 2107 op amp is dark and imo less detailed than what comes stock. i have the stock in right now and it sounds just fine for rolling tubes. This amp really has endless possibilities... makes it sort of hard to just chill out and listen!
      I too like the 408A's, nice and full bodied response. The ef92 by mullard is a nice tube also, but it is more analytical and tight bass wise which was nice for my thunderpants and hd600. It is a pain to open the amp and try all the combinations too, i cant count how many times ive set the timer for 5 min after shutting it down, opened it up and rolled op's or tubes and moved jumpers...   i'll deal with it though for it's versatility 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



      I suggest tubes first, op amps after to simplify things and not overwhelm yourself.
   
    The stock tubes have alot to offer a dark headphone too, dont equal them out either, they are good! 
   
  cheers, M


----------



## Aynjell

Quote: 





mmayer167 said:


> the 2107 op amp is dark and imo less detailed than what comes stock. i have the stock in right now and it sounds just fine for rolling tubes. This amp really has endless possibilities... makes it sort of hard to just chill out and listen!
> I too like the 408A's, nice and full bodied response. The ef92 by mullard is a nice tube also, but it is more analytical and tight bass wise which was nice for my thunderpants and hd600. It is a pain to open the amp and try all the combinations too, i cant count how many times ive set the timer for 5 min after shutting it down, opened it up and rolled op's or tubes and moved jumpers...   i'll deal with it though for it's versatility
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I love the stock tubes. M8083's are my second favourite. The best bang for buck on the market now has got to be I+ with an OPA2107, and I feel it's  actually as detailed but with a bit more darkness.


----------



## mmayer167

^ agreed. i just ordered a pair of nos matched ef91 (m8083) to try. got a super nice deal 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  i'll post a quick n dirty vs the ef92 when ive had a chance to listen


----------



## Napkin

Waiting for the amp to arrive! I have also ordered the 2107 OP-amp and the Voshkod 6ZH1P-EV tubes. Anyone tried this combo? Haven't decided on which pair of headphones to go with, has anyone tried the LD I+ with the ATH-W1000x or the Ultrasone PRO 900?


----------



## vilasn

Hi,
   
  Does anybody know if Audio-GD HDAMs would work in place of OPamp in this amp?
   
  Thanks & Regards.


----------



## Zoom25

Anybody here knows how the Little Dot I+ pairs with the HE-500?


----------



## silversurfer616

I have the He 500 and the Little Dot1+ and they are a good combination.On High Gain I hardly can turn up the volume...already too loud!
  My main amp is a Phoenix and I run the HE500 balanced and of course this is MORE sound but not necessarily better than the Little Dot as I like the Hifiman a bit darker.


----------



## Zoom25

Quote: 





silversurfer616 said:


> I have the He 500 and the Little Dot1+ and they are a good combination.On High Gain I hardly can turn up the volume...already too loud!
> My main amp is a Phoenix and I run the HE500 balanced and of course this is MORE sound but not necessarily better than the Little Dot as I like the Hifiman a bit darker.


 
   
  How do you find the bass impact and extension with the LD 1+. Overall do you think the HE-500 is being driven fully by the LD 1+ or not
   
  Also does the LD1+ make the HE-500 more darker?
   
  I have the O2 right now and sometimes want more of a punch with the HE-500, also it's sometimes touch bright more than my preference.


----------



## silversurfer616

I found the HE500 to bright with the stock cable.And I don't like to use EQ in JRiver.Now that I have a Norse adapter to use the balanced ALO chain mail with the HE, the brightness is gone(or it is my brain that has adjusted).
  Also,the Little Dot I+ being a tube OTL, is taming the highs a bit.
  Still,the Phoenix is better in handling the HE500 as it has more power and as suc h resulting in more clarity and bigger soundstage.
  Depending on the music,bass is well extended on both,but not as visceral as the LCD2 bass(as my reference point).
  Every little change in amp,tubes,cables is minimal BUT noticeable!


----------



## cel4145

Thanks to this thread, I picked up the Little Dot I+ with the WE408A tubes to use with the Grado SR225i and Ultrason HFI-780. Enjoying them with both.
   
  And I don't know how much this has been said (I haven't read the whole thread), but David of Little Dot is an absolute pleasure to communicate with, and one of the best Internet vendors I've ever dealt with. The service matches the quality of the product, and that makes the experience even that much better.


----------



## kaneman890

I seem to see a bunch or people using HE-500s with this, what about HE-400? I'm picking up a pair of HE-400s soon and i also kind of want to replace my yulong u100 with one of these paired with an HRT music streamer II.  anyone have any advice on that, do you think it would be a worth while upgrade.  I'm not really expecting much if an actual improvement, more of a side grade, i just want something different. I  really like my u100 but i like to change stuff around every now and then.  I would like to know if i can expect to hear a little bit of an improvement though.
   
  any input is welcome


----------



## PurpleAngel

Quote: 





kaneman890 said:


> I seem to see a bunch or people using HE-500s with this, what about HE-400? I'm picking up a pair of HE-400s soon and i also kind of want to replace my yulong u100 with one of these paired with an HRT music streamer II.  anyone have any advice on that, do you think it would be a worth while upgrade.  I'm not really expecting much if an actual improvement, more of a side grade, i just want something different. I  really like my u100 but i like to change stuff around every now and then.  I would like to know if i can expect to hear a little bit of an improvement though.
> 
> any input is welcome


 
  Same answer as on the other thread.
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/604583/hifiman-he-400-review


----------



## OregonTrail

I just ordered a Little Dot I+, and I'm a bit concerned about interference.
   
  I'm going to use it in an office setting with a lot of text messaging going on.
   
  Is this a problem with the latest units? Was it revealed to be a grounding issue that can be resolved?


----------



## haejuk

I don't exactly know how to fix it because I am not sure if it was the tubes picking up the interference or if the signal wasn't properly grounded to the amp to shield from interference (doubtful), but you may hear some wireless data noises if your phone is on the table kind of close to your amp.  I didn't get great cell reception where I had my LDI+ when I had it, but I could hear some phone data happening when my cell phone was sitting next to the amp.


----------



## levinhatz

I've recently come to notice a bit of an issue with the Little Dot 1+ amp- not sure if it's just my unit. This amp is great and probably packs more punch than any other amp I've heard when listening to low impedance cans, but the one thing I can't help but notice now is how weird it sounds when listening to a part of a song where the music is only heard out of one ear. The beginning of the Beatles' "Flying" is an example of this. It's hard to describe, and maybe I just don't know the right terminology. Basically the complete lack of noise on the silent side is a bit uncomfortable since there is so much punch coming from the other ear.
   
  Maybe I'm just being picky, or maybe I have a defective unit. Has anyone else experienced this?
   
  PS- through A/Bing I have confirmed that it is the Little Dot that's adding this, not any other part of my chain.


----------



## levinhatz

bump


----------



## ShenaRingo326

Quote: 





levinhatz said:


> I've recently come to notice a bit of an issue with the Little Dot 1+ amp- not sure if it's just my unit. This amp is great and probably packs more punch than any other amp I've heard when listening to low impedance cans, but the one thing I can't help but notice now is how weird it sounds when listening to a part of a song where the music is only heard out of one ear. The beginning of the Beatles' "Flying" is an example of this. It's hard to describe, and maybe I just don't know the right terminology. Basically the complete lack of noise on the silent side is a bit uncomfortable since there is so much punch coming from the other ear.
> 
> Maybe I'm just being picky, or maybe I have a defective unit. Has anyone else experienced this?
> 
> PS- through A/Bing I have confirmed that it is the Little Dot that's adding this, not any other part of my chain.


 

 what other dac/sources are in your chain.. and which headphones are you using?
   
  the beatles recordings have very distinct left/right channels, so perhaps the LD I+ has zero crossfeed, where as your other dac/amps introduce some level of crossfeed into the signal?


----------



## levinhatz

Quote: 





shenaringo326 said:


> what other dac/sources are in your chain.. and which headphones are you using?
> 
> the beatles recordings have very distinct left/right channels, so perhaps the LD I+ has zero crossfeed, where as your other dac/amps introduce some level of crossfeed into the signal?


 
   
  I'm using a Schiit Bifrost and monoprice interconnects, headphones are a Grado RS1i and Audeze LCD-2. The other DAC/amp I'm comparing to is the Nuforce uDac, which is inferior in about every other way, but doesn't seem to have this issue.
   
  I've remedied it by turning on the crossfeed in JRiver Media Center, and yes, it does reduce the problem by about 75% when using the "pronounced" setting. I still would consider it a flaw in the amp, though, just like having to use EQ to cancel out unpleasant hights, etc.


----------



## john57

Some of the beatles recordings were done in mono at the time and converted to stereo. I think that you are  listening to some of the limitation of the recordings. Headphones tend to show the effects of post stereo processing more than speakers.


----------



## levinhatz

It's definitely not limited to the Beatles' stereo remasters, I have other examples, but your point is a good one- it could just be bad recordings.


----------



## sling5s

Anyone try JH13pro or LCD-2 with Little Dot I+?


----------



## levinhatz

Quote: 





sling5s said:


> Anyone try JH13pro or LCD-2 with Little Dot I+?


 
   
  I'm using the LD I+ with my LCD-2 in the interim as I save up for a more powerful amp. It does better than one might think, but still doesn't drive them nearly to their full potential.


----------



## sling5s

If the MAD EAR HD and Woo Audio 6 tube amps are likened to desktop amps than the Little Dot I+ sounds like a portable tube amp compared them.  I can't complain for the price.
  A nice secondary amp.


----------



## sling5s

I'm trying to remove the opamp in this thing.  Won't come out with hand.  Any suggestions?


----------



## sling5s

nevermind, got it.


----------



## Wolfdale

Guys, I'm thinking about buying this amp. My set is a DT 880 Pro, Schiit Modi DAC and a iBasso PB1 Toucan amp. Will the improvement be significant? I'm looking for better clarity and a more defined and wider soundstage, as well as higher volumes. One problem though is the one that I can buy is 220v, while my home's wiring is 110v. Will a transformer distort and make noise on the set?
  
 Thank you very much for your help!


----------



## Edgard Varese

Has anyone tried the I+ with high impedance cans, such as the DT880 250ohm or 600ohm?  Just curious whether switching the gain would do enough to drive them...


----------



## muaysteve

Hello fellow LD fans.  I am having a problem with crackling and distortion on my setup.
  
 I have narrowed it down to the headphone jack and/or the adapter.
  
 I am using Grado sr80i's with an adapter on my LD i+.  Yesterday I was getting a crackling here and there while I was using it.  At one point I noticed that the song I was listening to was very unbalanced. The vocals were much quieter than normal, while some of the background music was much louder than it should have been.
  
 When I fiddled around with the adapter and the jack, I could get things back to normal. 
  
 I am assuming that the hefty cord of the Grado's has put strain on the adapter and jack.  What can I do to fix this?
  
 Thanks
  
 Steve


----------



## john57

Sounds more like an adapter problem. Make sure the headphone and the adapter are fully plugged in with each other. The headphone  jack on the Little Dot 1+ is usually has a  metal jacket.


----------



## kvtaco17

edgard varese said:


> Has anyone tried the I+ with high impedance cans, such as the DT880 250ohm or 600ohm?  Just curious whether switching the gain would do enough to drive them...


 
  
 My little dot 1+  struggled even on high gain to drive my DT990's (250 ohm)... I tried it for giggle, and while not bad... it wasn't ideal...


----------



## Edgard Varese

kvtaco17 said:


> My little doe 1+  struggled even on high gain to drive my DT990's (250 ohm)... I tried it for giggle, and while not bad... it wasn't ideal...


 
  
 Ah ok, thanks for that, sounds like a no go at this point then...


----------



## Sony Slave

I ordered my Little Dot 1+ on the 29th from David on Ebay, w/expedited shipping, and I have yet to see it ship. 
 How long does it usually take for it it to start moving?
  
 And has anyone ever experienced extremely slow shipping for their Little Dot 1+?


----------



## kvtaco17

edgard varese said:


> Ah ok, thanks for that, sounds like a no go at this point then...


 
 But it works well for the 300 ohm HD800... the efficiency of the load makes a pretty good difference.


----------



## Edgard Varese

kvtaco17 said:


> But it works well for the 300 ohm HD800... the efficiency of the load makes a pretty good difference.


 
  
 I'm reading the HD800's sensitivity as 102 dB... whereas the DT880 250 ohm is 96 dB... that seems like a small difference (to me) but I guess it's functionally quite a large difference.


----------



## kvtaco17

edgard varese said:


> I'm reading the HD800's sensitivity as 102 dB... whereas the DT880 250 ohm is 96 dB... that seems like a small difference (to me) but I guess it's functionally quite a large difference.


 
 Well its the difference between 50% of the knob on low gain sounds great (HD800) and 70% and getting some clipping when the bass hits hard (DT990Pro)


----------



## Edgard Varese

kvtaco17 said:


> Well its the difference between 50% of the knob on low gain sounds great (HD800) and 70% and getting some clipping when the bass hits hard (DT990Pro)


 
  
  
 Wow, big difference.  Totally not in the market for HD800s though without a second mortgage...


----------



## muaysteve

john57 said:


> Sounds more like an adapter problem. Make sure the headphone and the adapter are fully plugged in with each other. The headphone  jack on the Little Dot 1+ is usually has a  metal jacket.


 
  
 Thanks John.  I ended up swapping it out with a second adapter I had kicking around.  I spent an hour listening, and everything was fine.  I noticed some black smudge like marks on the first adapter, so I assume it needs to be cleaned.
  
 Does anyone clean the port on the little dot?


----------



## pierg75

Hi,

 I've got my new DOT I+ a week ago and since then I get a constant noise.
 I've tried to change headphones (AKG K550, JVC S400 and some IEMs) and adapters but always getting the noise.
 I've tried to change position (not near any other electronic device) but no help.
 This is my fist tube amp and it might even be normal...but it's quite annoying.
 Should I send it back or is this something I can easily adjust?
  
 Thanks


----------



## Sony Slave

pierg75 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I've got my new DOT I+ a week ago and since then I get a constant noise.
> I've tried to change headphones (AKG K550, JVC S400 and some IEMs) and adapters but always getting the noise.
> ...


 
 Your tubes could need a burn in, if this does not help, supposedly switching opamps lowers the noise floor even more.


----------



## haejuk

You could also make sure the jumpers are set to low gain.  I don't remember how they ship, but there are some jumpers on the inside of the amp that you can change yourself to switch between high and low gain.  Your tubes could require burn-in as stated above.  Also, the tubes could simply be bad.  When I got my LDI+ one of the tubes would buzz, so I replaced both with a better set.  What kind of sound are you hearing?  Is it like a hiss, a buzz, or something else?


----------



## pierg75

I let now the amp to burn in with some files found in the forum.
  
 It's like a hiss I guess (I'm not sure about the difference between hiss and buzz), it's constant, it doesn't change at the volume change.
  
 I'll try also a new pair of tube and maybe a new opamp.
 Any quick suggestion without reading the entire rolling guide? 
  
 Thanks


----------



## ShenaRingo326

i've used my LD I+ with the following and it works well with my Grado 225i's
  
 Opamp:
  
 OPA2107
  
 Tubes:
  
 Sylvania Gold Brand 408A - These are harder to find and usually cost more than WE 408A
  
 Western Electric 408A
 http://www.tubedepot.com/nos-408a.html
   
Remember to change the jumpers for 408A type tubes if you switch from stock!  It's been a few years since I had OPA2107 and GB 408A combination, so I won't be able to give any comparisons to the stock tubes shipped with the I+.


----------



## Pepe Silvia

Hi there!  im waiting for a Little dot i+ that i bought from a fellow headfier, he has the VOSHKOD 6ZH1P-EV tubes Matched and the OPA2107.. I read about the best OPA for the little dot and got from ebay the MUSES02..
  
 I will still be on the search for the Sylvanias GB408a. but i think its a good setup for my Grados 225i. right?
  
  I was about to buy the new Schiit Vali but i heard alot of microphonic complains and honestly not sure if its a good match.. or a better match than the Little dot for my Grados that i will upgrade my headphones next year to a rs1 or HE500 not sure..


----------



## JoeDoe

Finally sorted out some humming issues I was having with my LD1+ and now I'm in aurvana! 
  
 MBP to cDAC+ to LD1+ with Telefunken EH900s (EF91). Got the OPA 2107 in there also. Can't go wrong!


----------



## stephanemtl

I hear a constant static noise coming out of my little dot I + (bought one month ago). It is in both channels. I switched and changed the tubes.... i turned off all sources of interference... I moved the amp... I tightened the screws.... And I connected it directly to the electric outlet... and the static noise remains.

 The static sound is louder at louder volume.... And even louder when the connected source (dac) is off! It begins to be heard when the volume is at 40 and becomes the loudest around 85.

When I remove the tubes, the noise disappears....

What should I do?


----------



## diphaloraptor

Is there an exhaustive list of all of the tubes that exist for the Little dot mk1+? Or at least what number tubes are equivalents of what, I am pretty new to this and get confused and its making it very difficult choosing tubes. If someone knows of anything.


----------



## JoeDoe

diphaloraptor said:


> Is there an exhaustive list of all of the tubes that exist for the Little dot mk1+? Or at least what number tubes are equivalents of what, I am pretty new to this and get confused and its making it very difficult choosing tubes. If someone knows of anything.




http://www.head-fi.org/t/364043/little-dot-i-tube-rolling/0_30


----------



## diphaloraptor

That helps a bit, yes. And I have certainly seen the chart, I guess I just need more time for everything to sink in.


----------



## boombobby289

Does Little Dot, I+ work well with low impedance 32 Ohm headphone like AKG K550?
  
 What kind of tube is good upgrade  for Little Dot, I+ ?


----------



## JoeDoe

boombobby289 said:


> Does Little Dot, I+ work well with low impedance 32 Ohm headphone like AKG K550?
> 
> What kind of tube is good upgrade  for Little Dot, I+ ?




Search the thread my friend. The little dot is renowned for playing well with low impedance cans like AKG and Grado. You can also find tubes suggestions all over the place if you do a little searching


----------



## levinhatz

boombobby289 said:


> Does Little Dot, I+ work well with low impedance 32 Ohm headphone like AKG K550?
> 
> What kind of tube is good upgrade  for Little Dot, I+ ?


 
  
 A couple good choices to start with are the Western Electric 408A and the Sylvania 408A. In my experience the WE408A will warm up the headphones a bit, and the Sylvanias will open up the soundstage and give the sound a nice pleasant texture.
  
 Have fun!


----------



## stephanemtl

How quiet is your LD I+?
  
 At low volume, I can hear (with my Grado RS2i) a very faint static noise that becomes more noticeable as I increase the volume.
  
 I did all I could to get rid of that noise (new tubes, new power cord, new location, new room, etc.), with no effect.


----------



## boombobby289

stephanemtl said:


> How quiet is your LD I+?
> 
> At low volume, I can hear (with my Grado RS2i) a very faint static noise that becomes more noticeable as I increase the volume.
> 
> I did all I could to get rid of that noise (new tubes, new power cord, new location, new room, etc.), with no effect.




Where did the noise come from? Is it humming sound from its transformer? Is your LDI+ a new unit?


----------



## stephanemtl

boombobby289 said:


> Where did the noise come from? Is it humming sound from its transformer? Is your LDI+ a new unit?


 
 I do not know. The noise is there regardless of the tubes I use. Even when the source (dac) is off.... it is still there, even a bit louder. When I remove the tubes, the noise disappears.
  
 Yes, it is a brand new unit.
  
 Before returning it to China..... I would like to make sure this is not regular noise.


----------



## mannkind246

Need advice.
  
 Between Grado SR325is and Alessandro MS-2i which is a better match with LDI+?
  
 I like huge sound stage/3D imaging, great separation, great detail, smooth treble and extended deep  bass...etc.
  
 Thanks.


----------



## JoeDoe

mannkind246 said:


> Need advice.
> 
> Between Grado SR325is and Alessandro MS-2i which is a better match with LDI+?
> 
> ...




Depends on what you want. Those two are like fraternal twins: not identical but very similar in many ways, the 325 is more aggressive with slightlymore bass and treble where the MS2 is more neutral in its presentation.


----------



## boombobby289

joedoe said:


> Depends on what you want. Those two are like fraternal twins: not identical but very similar in many ways, the 325 is more aggressive with slightlymore bass and treble where the MS2 is more neutral in its presentation.



Are there any different in term of soundstage and separation between them?


----------



## JoeDoe

boombobby289 said:


> Are there any different in term of soundstage and separation between them?




If there is, it's marginal at best.


----------



## HometownHiFi

Is anyone using the Little Dot I+ with Philips Fidelio X1's? Opinions on that combo greatly appreciated.
  
 Thanks!


----------



## drofeel71

Hi all
  
 I know I'm a little late to the party, as this thread has been quiet for a while. But, I've just received my I+ today, and I'm loving it straight from the box, with the stock opamp and tubes. I'm already looking at opamp rolling very soon, and eventually tubes too.
  
 Using my AK100 mk1 -> Little Dot I+ -> AKG K550 with an Audioquest interconnect, loving how my gear is sounding.


----------



## adtrance

So I got my new LD 1+ yesterday and wanted to share my first impressions with anyone who might be on the fence or simply intrigued by this capable little amplifier.
  
After carefully inspecting it, I plugged everything plus headphones in and left it playing music at 50% volume for an about 3 hours while it was just sitting on the table.  I'd listen to it every now and then to make sure there was no funny business going on.  No drama, happy to say.  After a few hours, I sat down to give it a good go.  Listened to a bunch of tracks that I was very familiar with - ones that I've listened to many times through my main stereo and to a lesser extent, through my RHA IEMs.  Review is based on stock 6J1 tubes and op-amp.
  
*Appearance & feel*
*** The unit feels dense - nothing like cold metal and some weight to make it feel nice in your hands.  It's glossy and there's no flex, creak, or wobble when I plant it on the table.
*** The AC cable that comes with it looks and feels high quality.  It's thick and looks much nicer than any power cable I've seen come standard with any audio equipment I've purchased in the past.
*** Also comes with a bag with your average (cheap) RCA cables, average 1/8" to 1/4" headphone adapter, and some extra jumpers.  Very Very nice to see it come with the little doo-dads that might trip you up when you're hooking it up for the first time.
*** The connections all feel solid.  The RCA jacks, the power switch, headphone jack, and volume knob doesn't move a bit when connecting cables.  Not your stereotypical cheap made-in-China piece.  The volume knob is also smooth and has some resistance to it.
*** The whole thing is much higher quality than I expected it to be.
  
*Sound with stock tubes and op-amp*
*** It's has a detailed sound, much more so than I expected.  I wondered if going to tubes would drastically roll off the upper treble, but it doesn't sound muffled or dull at all.  It doesn't quite have the pluckyness that I can hear through my Sony ES tho.  Hope things get a little more distinct with more mature tubes.
*** Vocals are distinct and clear.  Some loud passages from intimate recordings like Norah Jones can break up a bit through my iPhone 6 and Sony ES SACD headphone jack, but it's smooth and clear through the Little Dot.  Really pleased with this.
*** Bass is a miss.  The stock tubes are still very new with less than 6 hours on them so I'm hoping to hear some improvement.  As it is right now, bass is loose and bland.  Almost as if all low notes have the same texture.  Also notice that it doesn't go as low as the ES or iPhone.  Kraftwerk's The Robots has a low synth at the beginning that is very present and audible through the ES and phone, but it's hardly there through the Little Dot.  Listening to classical music, the lower octaves sounds the same, regardless of instrument it seems.  
* It's quiet.  There's no overt hiss, hum, or static coming through.  At first I detected a slight hum with no source, but that was also right after I plugged everything in for the first time.  I'm happy to say that it has a quiet noise floor (but not dead silent) after running it for a few hours.
* Overall, I'm very surprised at how good it sounded right out of the box.  I'm hoping the upper details and bass-texture improve over time, but I do have other tubes that I plan to roll soon.
  
So those are my immediate impressions of the Little Dot 1+.  I'll come back in a while after I've rolled the tubes and had more time with this very capable and flexible little unit.
  
Happy listening!


----------



## Benfica1

adtrance said:


> So I got my new LD 1+ yesterday and wanted to share my first impressions with anyone who might be on the fence or simply intrigued by this capable little amplifier.
> 
> After carefully inspecting it, I plugged everything plus headphones in and left it playing music at 50% volume for an about 3 hours while it was just sitting on the table.  I'd listen to it every now and then to make sure there was no funny business going on.  No drama, happy to say.  After a few hours, I sat down to give it a good go.  Listened to a bunch of tracks that I was very familiar with - ones that I've listened to many times through my main stereo and to a lesser extent, through my RHA IEMs.  Review is based on stock 6J1 tubes and op-amp.
> 
> ...


+1 Agree with everything you said.


----------



## adtrance

It's been a week now and I've probably run through about 20 hours of music through it.  Still on stock opamp and until last night, stock tubes.  I would say that the stock tube sounded great and got better as time went on - though I was also breaking in a new pair of headphones at the same time.  So "got better" could relate to the amp or headphones or both getting better through initial burn in. 
  
 What I can definitely tell is how much nicer it sounded with a fresh pair of GE JAN 5654W tubes.  Right out of the box the new tubes sounded as detailed but without the harshness that the stock tubes would sometimes exhibit.
  
 I also have a new solid state amp coming in a few days that I will compare the Little Dot 1+ up against.  After then, I'll submit my conclusive review for this enjoyable amp.


----------



## Jony27

Anyone paired these with Q701s?
 Does it it need a dedicated DAC or does it have one built in?


----------



## adtrance

This does not have a built-in DAC.  You can go from headphone jack on a phone or PC if you don't have an external DAC by using a stereo mini-jack to RCA cable.


----------



## Hixs

Anyone hooked this up to a Aune T1 mk2? Use the T1 as the DAC and LD as the amp.
  
 Would it be worth the 130ish euros it would cost to buy?
  
 Running off a laptop. AKG 550.


----------



## soundsculptor

I just bought mine and it arrives from Hong Kong on Monday and thanks to your review, by golly am I excited!
  
 Anything I should look-out for or keep in mind with this?


----------



## musaji

Guys, I am selling my little dot. If anyone you know who might be looking for this wonderful opportunity, here is your chance. 
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/786465/little-dot-i-headphone-amp-with-upgrade-ef92-voskhods-burr-brown-opa2107ap


----------



## newyorker4life

Resurrecting the thread - it's on massdrop now.


----------



## Sdmark

newyorker4life said:


> Resurrecting the thread - it's on massdrop now.




Yep, I got in on the drop too. I'm not expecting a whole lot from it but the price is definitely right and have some other tubes/op amps to toy around with. 

Also have a few different DACs to try it with as well as a Schiit Asgard if it doesn't pan out in the long run.


----------



## m usicguy

Has anyone done this or seen this  burson audio  v5i  op amp


----------



## Arvan

How do you know what voltage the jumper needs to be at when changing tubes? Reading the data on the tube i guess? I'm a total noob when it comes to tubes but i am looking in to getting one of these.


----------



## Sdmark

arvan said:


> How do you know what voltage the jumper needs to be at when changing tubes? Reading the data on the tube i guess? I'm a total noob when it comes to tubes but i am looking in to getting one of these.




The manual includes directions for which jumpers to set inside the Little Dot 1+ amplifier. You just need to know the Family of the tubes you are interested in using.

Here is the latest copy of the manual: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/6037680/Little%20Dot%20I%2B%20Reference%20Guide.pdf


----------



## tdockweiler

I scored one of these for $85. Pretty good deal. I went with the GE JAN 5654W tubes to start out with. Didn't even bother with the stock tubes.
  
 I started out by trying it with the DT-990 250 ohm. I know that's not a perfect match for this amp but I'm surprised it sounds so good on this amp. Sounds just like it should. I only need 35% on the volume dial.
  
 I actually don't hear any extra warmth. All my music sounds as it should. On some recordings the soundstage seems larger and more outside my head. Maybe a tiny hint of warmth compared to something like the O2.
  
 All my harsh/poor recordings still sound bad..and harsh 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Only problem is that I started out with a loud buzzing noise. It went down to nearly inaudible levels by changing to a better power cable (cheap one!). I think maybe the audio cables are too close to the power cable? It was even there when my DAC was off.
  
 I also have the K400, Q701, Koss Pro DJ100, HD-598 and HD-650 to try with it.
 I totally expect the HD-650 to sound pretty bad with it. I know it's not really designed for that.
 I noticed it actually has as much power into 300hms as the O2 (150mw or something).
  
 EDIT: I guess I had a group loop issue or something. I switched outlets and same thing. Tried another one closest to the outside of my apartment and dead silent. Weird. My other amps are dead silent with the other "bad" outlets.


----------



## tdockweiler

I've been listening to this for several hours now and am really impressed so far!
 Hard to believe this can be had for around $100 sometimes.
 It's actually not a colored sounding amp to me at all. Just maybe a tiny bit of warmth.
 Sometimes when i'm testing new gear I skip around too much when listening to music.
 With this I can't resist listening to each track all the way through. That's a good sign.
  
 What surprised me the most is that it actually seems like a good "all rounder" budget amp.
 I haven't yet had a headphone sound bad with it.
  
 It's kind of funny because I wouldn't even call similar budget amps that. Not even the Magni or O2.
  
 It even manages to sound great with the 250 ohm DT-990 and HD-650.
  
 I think the best headphone for it so far is the Q701. I bet a Grado SR225 would be amazing with it.
  
 I did however hate it with the OPA2227. It just made the soundstage in recordings seem so closed in.
 Everything was too warm and congested sounding when paired up with the GE JAN 5654W.
  
 I find that with these tubes, the stock op-amp is very good (IMO).
 If I had known it used the LM4562 I would have kept it installed. I remember being rather impressed with that op-amp when I used them with my O2.
 With the O2 it was sometimes a tad bright though.
  
 Now I have to wonder what other hybrid tube amps are comparable to this or even better under $350 or so.
  
 Now I know this is not the most powerful amp in the world, but it seems to handle all my headphones easily. Even the AKG K400 is no problem.
  
 BTW somehow the Bravo V2 holds it's own pretty well against this (with upgraded tube). Too bad it's much worse with the Q701 though.
 That amp sounds really good for the HD-650 and DT-990. I'm using mine with some old RCA (black plate?) NOS tube.
  
 Wonder how the Bravo Ocean compares to this?


----------



## WhiteKnite

tdockweiler said:


> I've been listening to this for several hours now and am really impressed so far!
> Hard to believe this can be had for around $100 sometimes.
> It's actually not a colored sounding amp to me at all. Just maybe a tiny bit of warmth.
> Sometimes when i'm testing new gear I skip around too much when listening to music.
> ...


 
 The LDI+ really does pair well with the Q701.  Another with excellent synergy is the Hifiman RE00.  I tried it with the SE846 though and I have never heard such a poor pairing, haha.


----------



## MissChristie

Received this from Massdrop yesterday. Popped in some Tung Sol tubes. I have to say that it is highly impressive when comparing with my Magni 2 (non-U). I've heard people say that it isn't a match for the 2 headphones I tested it with (LCD-2 and HD6xx), but I feel quite the opposite as it provided a more pleasant experience than the Schiit, without feeling that there was anything sacrificed in terms of detail or imaging. There is definitely some darkness in terms of sound signature and that in effect makes certain instruments less "crunchy, but in comparison, the Little Dot makes it sound more "complete" where as the extra chrunchiness from the Magni comes off more as clipping in retrospect. The sound from the tube amp was so rich and euphoric that my wfie, who can discern differences in gear but doesn't find audio to be a pursuit to spend major money on, asked if we could get another one the next time it drops for her desktop setup.
  
  
@tdockweiler How did the Pro DJ100 sound on the I+? I had the 200 for a good while which I had passed to my father (He absolutely loves it and it seems we can't go a single phone conversation without him thanking me for his gift) and I wonder if it would be a good recommendation for him.


----------



## Arvan

whiteknite said:


> The LDI+ really does pair well with the Q701.  Another with excellent synergy is the Hifiman RE00.  I tried it with the SE846 though and I have never heard such a poor pairing, haha.




That's good news! I just ordered a LD 1+


----------



## bogde

+1 for the LDI+ with the Q701


----------



## Arvan

Mr postman just rang on my door delivering the Little Dot! I got 4 tubes with it all of them are the 6j1. 
  
 However i forgot to make a cable so i can hook it up and test it but i did try it out with a pair of headphones and no source connected. No hum, no static and everything seems fine! That makes me really happy to be honest since i hav read alot of stories about grounding issues.


----------



## WhiteKnite

arvan said:


> Mr postman just rang on my door delivering the Little Dot! I got 4 tubes with it all of them are the 6j1.
> 
> However i forgot to make a cable so i can hook it up and test it but i did try it out with a pair of headphones and no source connected. No hum, no static and everything seems fine! That makes me really happy to be honest since i hav read alot of stories about grounding issues.


 
 Yep, you are lucky.  I have a quiet hum in my left channel that I can only hear on my sensitive IEMs and I haven't been able to track it down yet.  I would use this a lot more if I could solve that but right now I just use it with my Q701 or RE-00 since they don't pick up the noise.


----------



## Arvan

man..It sound really good even with the stock **** tubes and no burn in..Im very happy that i got this little thing


----------



## bogde

i'm thinking to replace the pot on my ld i+. any idea how to remove the knob? should i just pull it out? doesnt seem to come off easily. thanks for any hints!


----------



## Arvan

bogde said:


> i'm thinking to replace the pot on my ld i+. any idea how to remove the knob? should i just pull it out? doesnt seem to come off easily. thanks for any hints!


 
 Not speaking of the 1+ but knobs in generall.. Pry them off with care. They are usually just pressed on the axle of the pot. I usually use as big of a screwdriver i can fit behind the knob and gently pry it off. Pry from different sides so it gets loose evenly.


----------



## WhiteKnite

arvan said:


> Not speaking of the 1+ but knobs in generall.. Pry them off with care. They are usually just pressed on the axle of the pot. I usually use as big of a screwdriver i can fit behind the knob and gently pry it off. Pry from different sides so it gets loose evenly.


 
 Yep, that's how I got mine off.  And be careful desoldering the pot.  Those pads/rings on that PCB lift really easy.  I had to follow some of the traces and run wires because I mangled mine a bit.


----------



## bogde

thanks guys for the directions! one more question if you don't mind: i'm thinking to get the alps blue velvet 100k logarithmic, i think the part number is RK27112, is that what i need? i know it's not a drop-in replacement and that i will need to use wires and all, just wondering if it's the right part to use. thanks!


----------



## WhiteKnite

bogde said:


> thanks guys for the directions! one more question if you don't mind: i'm thinking to get the alps blue velvet 100k logarithmic, i think the part number is RK27112, is that what i need? i know it's not a drop-in replacement and that i will need to use wires and all, just wondering if it's the right part to use. thanks!


 
 You should be able to make that work.  You'll likely need to grind down the spacer tab.  I actually have one of those but haven't gotten around to putting it in because I messed up the PCB so bad putting in my RK16.  Thanks for reminding me, I was looking for a project while I wait for some supplies to come in for something else I'm working on


----------



## bogde

whiteknite said:


> You should be able to make that work.  You'll likely need to grind down the spacer tab.  I actually have one of those but haven't gotten around to putting it in because I messed up the PCB so bad putting in my RK16.  Thanks for reminding me, I was looking for a project while I wait for some supplies to come in for something else I'm working on


 
 thanks, i guess i'll order one and go from there. good luck with your projects!


----------



## Arvan

Oh man, DT150 sounds really impressive with the little dot...Since the cans are from the 70s or so they might take good to a tube. Very impressive dynamics, bass is really coming alive.


----------



## WhiteKnite

bogde said:


> thanks, i guess i'll order one and go from there. good luck with your projects!


 
 Started digging into it today.  It will be a very tight fit.  The front to back pin spacings are different so I will be either bending over or removing all 3 rear pins and running wires to R3, C1 and L Input.  I may have to insulate the pins as well if they are too close to the other components. Then I will use the PCB to mount the front 3 pins.  I still can't find anything that would cause the hum in my left channel, so I might try swapping the sides of the ceramic valve sockets and see if that makes any difference.  I also cleaned up some of the grounds just in case.


----------



## bogde

whiteknite said:


> Started digging into it today.  It will be a very tight fit.  The front to back pin spacings are different so I will be either bending over or removing all 3 rear pins and running wires to R3, C1 and L Input.  I may have to insulate the pins as well if they are too close to the other components. Then I will use the PCB to mount the front 3 pins.  I still can't find anything that would cause the hum in my left channel, so I might try swapping the sides of the ceramic valve sockets and see if that makes any difference.  I also cleaned up some of the grounds just in case.


 
 i was thinking to run wires from all the 6 pins to the other side of the board, i think i've seen some pictures of this mod, probably in this thread but cant find them right now.
  
 i don't have any hum, but i have a wifi printer close to where i keep the amp and when thats on i can clearly hear noise in the right channel. as soon as i turn the printer off, it goes away. probably a different problem, but thought i should mention it anyway, it seems like this amp is prone to all kinds of interference.


----------



## WhiteKnite

bogde said:


> i was thinking to run wires from all the 6 pins to the other side of the board, i think i've seen some pictures of this mod, probably in this thread but cant find them right now.
> 
> i don't have any hum, but i have a wifi printer close to where i keep the amp and when thats on i can clearly hear noise in the right channel. as soon as i turn the printer off, it goes away. probably a different problem, but thought i should mention it anyway, it seems like this amp is prone to all kinds of interference.


 Yeah I tried testing it across the room since it is near my PC monitor, but it still had hum. I can only hear it on my NT6, which are very sensitive. It shouldn't be necessary to run wires from the front pins.


----------



## Ulises

What would the nice folks here say of paring a LD1 to a Beyerdynamic T5P (32 ohms, 102db, a bit bright) vs a Lyr 2


----------



## Arvan

Update! 
  
 Got the Mullards today. First of it looks like a much better tube than the stock ones, so off to a good start. 
  
 They sound quite a lot smoother and cleaner than the stock tubes. Treble is a bit toned down and bass is tighter and more controlled. Overall the sound is more refined across the board and there is less noise. Not that it was a hiss monster with the stock 6j1p tubes but now its pitch black on stock gain even with some grados thrown in the mix. 
  
 I also ordered a matched pair of *Voshkod 6ZH1P-EV. *


----------



## Arvan

I lowered the gain to 3.5 but...I somehow feel the volume travel got worse? at 20% with my Q701s its blasting! Placebo maybe? or my stupidity


----------



## bogde

On my amp, when the switches are in the "on" position, the gain is low. Most likely the switches were soldered the wrong way. Maybe yours is the same.


----------



## Arvan

bogde said:


> On my amp, when the switches are in the "on" position, the gain is low. Most likely the switches were soldered the wrong way. Maybe yours is the same.


 

Il go back to stock tonight to see if that's the case.. might as well be. I got the v4 circuit board if that makes any difference.


----------



## WhiteKnite

Got my new pot in. Love it, works great. Front 3 pins fit in the pcb as planned. Had to run wires from all 3 rear pins which was not too difficult. I also put a strip of electrical tape across them to be safe.


----------



## Arvan

bogde said:


> On my amp, when the switches are in the "on" position, the gain is low. Most likely the switches were soldered the wrong way. Maybe yours is the same.


 
  
 It was set to low gain by default. I missed the "low" text when i was fiddling around the last time. Now everything is back in order


----------



## bogde

whiteknite said:


> Got my new pot in. Love it, works great. Front 3 pins fit in the pcb as planned. Had to run wires from all 3 rear pins which was not too difficult. I also put a strip of electrical tape across them to be safe.


 
 looks great! i cant wait to get my pot. coincidentally i ordered the same knob as well.


----------



## WhiteKnite

I seriously can't believe how good this sounds now with this new pot. Of course between that, the muses02 and my Mullard 8100s it better sound good since I put more money into mods than the original amp price, ha.  This is a very nice knob, I'm sure you'll like it.  I still haven't tracked down my left channel hum, but it seems to be significantly reduced.  It is lower than the noise floor on a lot of recordings and only shows up with my NT6 Pro, so it really only bothers me psychologically.


----------



## Arvan

whiteknite said:


> I seriously can't believe how good this sounds now with this new pot. Of course between that, the muses02 and my Mullard 8100s it better sound good since I put more money into mods than the original amp price, ha.  This is a very nice knob, I'm sure you'll like it.  I still haven't tracked down my left channel hum, but it seems to be significantly reduced.  It is lower than the noise floor on a lot of recordings and only shows up with my NT6 Pro, so it really only bothers me psychologically.


 
 So you would recommend the muses02 with the 8100s?


----------



## WhiteKnite

arvan said:


> So you would recommend the muses02 with the 8100s?


 I can say it sounds great now, but not sure how much of that is the opamp. I don't think I'd pay $40 for it again TBH, but if you could find a genuine one for a good price it might be worth it.


----------



## NOSAudiophile

How are these with superlux HD668B, or low impedence DT990 premium?  I'm looking to listen to a little tubey sound at a budget price now and then, and would like it to warm up colder analytical sounding phones without losing the bottom end control. I'm hoping these would give me that answer!


----------



## Arvan

Works great with low impedance cans. The only headphone i have that isn't a fantastic match is the Sony MDR CD900ST but they are suuuper sensitive. 50% on a smartphone is blasting!. The amps has a lot of power though so with most low impedance cans you have to be careful with the knob.


----------



## Arvan

nosaudiophile said:


> How are these with superlux HD668B, or low impedence DT990 premium?  I'm looking to listen to a little tubey sound at a budget price now and then, and would like it to warm up colder analytical sounding phones without losing the bottom end control. I'm hoping these would give me that answer!


 
  
 Works great with low impedance cans. The only headphone i have that isn't a fantastic match is the Sony MDR CD900ST but they are suuuper sensitive. 50% on a smartphone is blasting!. The amps has a lot of power though so with most low impedance cans you have to be careful with the knob.


----------

