# How to best clean out a solder hole after desoldering?



## aphexii

After removing a part, I always have an issue with solder still in the hole. I have a desoldering braid, but it can only do so much pulling it out of the hole itself. 

 Do I need a desoldering bulb?


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## Punnisher

No, just use the braid along with a liberal amount of flux. That will get it out in no time.

 You could also try your luck with a solder sucker. Those work pretty well for some situations.


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## Fred_fred2004

I heat up the hole and very quickly blow through it (watch your lips) or if I can't get close enough I heat it up and push a resistor lead through it keep it moving so it doesn't get a chance to solder in the hole.


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## lacrossebowe8

you can also try using the end of a braid twisted tightly somewhat inserted into the hole. This almost always works for me.


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## amb

My trick is to use a stainless steel dental pick. Heat the pad to melt the solder, then stick the dental pick through the hole. The solder doesn't stick to the stainless surface of the pick, and you can clear the hole without a lot of heat or time (which could lift the pad).


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## Uncle Erik

I invested in a desoldering station a few years back, but I used to use a bulb pretty often. Other techniques that worked were heating up the hole and using a dental pick to push away solder, and sticking a clipped lead into the hole (while hot) and pulling it through.


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## Duggeh

I've always just used some cheap speaker wire dipped in flux and trim it back but cutting off the bits that end up tinned. Then again my soldering skill is analogous to Ben Afflecks acting ability.


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## rembrant

The venerable solder sucker is what I always use. Once you get a good one with a silicon tip, it takes seconds. Just pop and it's done.


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## deltaydeltax

I use a desoldering tool. Sometimes desoldering the board from the bottom works well as gravity also helps you out.


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## NightOwl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *amb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My trick is to use a stainless steel dental pick. Heat the pad to melt the solder, then stick the dental pick through the hole. The solder doesn't stick to the stainless surface of the pick, and you can clear the hole without a lot of heat or time (which could lift the pad)._

 

x2


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## Juaquin

Solder sucker (desoldering tool) is the preferred method for holes. Check out Tangent's desoldering tutorial, I just watched it yesterday and there were a few techniques I haven't thought of.


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## compuryan

You can always just heat it up and jam something through the hole. Dental pick works well if you have one, a mechanical pencil would also work.


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## Pricklely Peete

Great tips !!!

 Where does one buy a SS dental pick ? The local Drug mart/Wal Mart/Superstore had nothing of the kind......

 Peete.


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## srserl

Since I don't have dental picks, I just use some picks I got in a soldering kit. They seem to be coated with a non-stick coating. Just melt the solder, stick the pick in the hole and remove the heat.

 Scott


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## digger945

I just tried Chem-WIK rosin SD.
 Works pretty darn good.


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## NightOwl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pricklely Peete* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great tips !!!

 Where does one buy a SS dental pick ? The local Drug mart/Wal Mart/Superstore had nothing of the kind......

 Peete._

 

I got a set from a dentist friend of mine. I did a quick search and found several on eBay. Since you're in Toronto, there's a place called K Dental on Finch E. near Markham that sells them and also has an online site.


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## amb

You can also find these in many hardware/tool stores, not labeled as "dental picks", but simply "picks". Usually they are 3 or so in a package, with different shaped ends.


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## aphexii

So i've got 5 of 6 holes clean, thanks for the help! The last one is being a pain though, i've tried a desoldering bulb, wick, flux, pick... Nothing seems to be able to get the last bit of solder out of there.

 Any ideas?


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## Pricklely Peete

Cool, thanks guys......
	

	
	
		
		

		
			










 cheers !

 Aphexii try filling the hole in with some fresh solder and then try again with the vacuum bulb...sometimes this works with real stubborn ..um...holes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Peete.


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## Forte

You can also clean out the hole using a small drill bit. A local electronics shop sells PCB drill bits in 0.8mm and 1.0mm sizes, but hardware shop bits are just the same only cheaper.

 Oh, don't use it in a drill or dremel, to much chance of damaging the board. Do it buy hand or with a pin vice.


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## tomb

The picks are a great idea - also available at Harbor Freight for next to nothing ... they aren't nearly as strong as the "real thing," but that's not needed for this.

 I just use braid, but there are a few pointers for those tough holes. The real problem is solder in the middle of a plated hole. You may have to attack this from both sides:

 1. Add solder to the hole. Try to do this in such a way that you melt the solder caught in the deep part of the hole - before you add more solder. This makes the entire solder blob contiguous. That way when it melts, it should melt everything and the wicking action from the braid will suck it out. Otherwise, you'll just repeat solder/remove for the same blob you added each time, without clearing out the original "stuck" solder.

 Note that enough solder should be added to cause a slight, but noticeable, bump above the surface of the board. This works much better than just using a little bit of solder.

 2. As stated above, you may need to do this on both sides of the hole.

 3. Make certain the braid is completely clean. You may have snipped off the end that was filled with solder, but trace material may travel as far as twice the length of the visible solder portion on the braid.

 4. It helps to make certain the iron is hot. Also, a little dab of solder on the iron where you touch it to the braid will "jump start" the wicking action. This can be critical sometimes, because often you'll lay the braid over the hole, apply the iron, but nothing happens. "Jump starting" with a bit of solder on the tip of the iron that touches the braid will ensure good wicking right away.


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## pabbi1

I use a good old safety pin - just match the right pin to the hole size... just be careful not to lift the pads by pulling it out after the solder cools.


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## SiBurning

If it's that intent on staying, leave it in peace. When you go to insert the part, just hit it with the soldering iron again.

_And the will therein lieth, which dieth not. Who knoweth the mysteries of the will, with its vigor? For God is but a great will pervading all things by nature of its intentness. *Solder* doth not yield himself to the angels, nor unto death utterly, save only through the weakness of his feeble will._

 If you're more intent on getting it out than it is in staying put, quickly but very gently inserting and removing a heated drill bit should make short work of it. Push it through at least 1/2" on the other side to let the solder end up in the grooves. Better: push it all the way so the grooves of the bit go completely out the other side. If you weren't slick enough, you might need to grab the last bit with wick or a bulb, but don't do this if you still see solder on both sides or deep inside--just use the bit again. Or you could just push it all the way through--a one way journey through the through hole--but don't ask me how to hold such a hot bit that way. You could drop it, but dropping a hot drill bit full of molten lead is a dumb thing to do (tm). I used to put it in a flat wooden clothes pin and heat the tip of the bit with a lighter or... maybe a candle... I really don't remember. Wood's good because it won't suck up the heat, and is more resistant to flame than plastic. Try to choose a good quality wood, like hickory. It'll fill the room with that nice pleasant smell of burnished wood, give you a sense of accomplishment, and that sense that you're in a real work shop, and is therapeutic besides. The bit should be hot enough to melt the solder on its own. Just use the bit, not the iron, and you'll be sure. Just don't apply any pressure--the bit should almost fall through from its own weight--it really won't but you should only use the slightest pressure only to overcome the drag from the molten solder. If the solder's will is truly fantastic, and you need to try again, just push it though (gently) as far as your makeshift handle lets you and leave it to cool off. If it gets stuck even a tad after cooling off, don't pull twist spindle or mutilate not even a hair's breath, just reheat the bit near the hole. You might want to constantly twist the bit slowly while it cools to prevent it from sticking, which is why you want to get it in far enough so it's past the groove part of the bit. While not crucial, try to use a bit slightly smaller than the one used to drill the hole. You want a smidgen of wiggle room or you'll risk pulling the pad off. I have no idea what kind of bit I had, but the solder never stuck to the bit. Well, not bad enough that a metal tool couldn't get it off. All I remember is the bit was silver colored, so it was probably stainless steel, as amb mentioned earlier.

 They should make a soldering iron tip shaped like that.

 I still think doing nothing is the best option.


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## deltaydeltax

Try heating it with a heating gun while you solder. I have a board heater at work for the really heavy copper boards. It helps out a lot when using small tips on big and heavy copper planes.


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## Random Murderer

i just add a bit of flux(and solder occasionally) and then hit it with the braid. usually works the first time.
 try to avoid the ratshack braid if you can, more often than not it gives off fumes worse than flux.


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