# New Portable Amp/Dac: iBasso D1 **with updates on the first page**



## jamato8

I have been waiting for one of these for a few years and I have to admit I am too excited. I use a portable CD player with an optical out but no one has made a portable unit that would work with this so I had to make my own. Now I do have the Monica II dac, which is excellent but I would love to have something like the D1 also and it will work out of a computer using the usb as well. I also like the quality look of this unit, at least so far from what I can see in the images. 

 Here is the link: iBasso D1 Portable DAC/AMP









































 470uf capacitor for the buffers bypassed with a 4.7uf Black Gate nonpolar





 All Black Gates and one Sanyo Oscon, You do not have to use Sanyo caps. You can use all Black Gates just check the physical size and measure the caps you are replacing. I would use as much uf as the original or more and make sure of the voltage. The higher the voltage of the cap for the same uf, generally the larger the cap so I stay near the operating voltage as I have also found that with electrolytic type caps they sound better when near the operating voltage where film caps often are better at much higher voltage ratings. 






 My world traveling soldering iron. I bought this in China for 2.50$. I like it better than my Weller that cost 15 times as much and the tips are easier to change though I can't get the tips here. I bought one extra tip but the first one is still fine. 

 Finally. I love stuff like this. :^)

 I emailed them and the price is around $229.

 The opamp it uses is the AD823 and the buffers are 5532. Its all about implementation so I am looking forward to hearing this.

 This is the company I use for extremely good optical cables. You can order them with toslink to mini, mini to mini, toslink to toslink and whatever end to end length you want. The fittings are aluminum and the work is excellent. They will also use heat shrink if you request to make a very scecure bond of the optical cable to the connector. It is a good bond to begin with but I wanted/needed something even stronger for my mobile use and they figured out a method of angling the optical out of the connector to give more a a curve. They also have a neat adapter so you can go right angle with the optical. They are in Canada and ship within a day of the order normally. 

 For a great optical connector both in price and quality I use connectors from Sysconcept of Canada. I have used this companies connectors for years and have always had good customer service and communication. There are mini to mini and mini to toslink cables available and right angle adapters: Here is the link:

 Mini to mini:

Sys Concept Inc. Fiber Optic Products Attenuators, Patch cords, Laser Diodes, Connectors, MP3, Toslink, Hybrid Adapter and more: MiniPlug to MiniPlug Premium Optical Cable 0.05 to 50 meters

 Toslink to mini:

Sys Concept Inc. Fiber Optic Products Attenuators, Patch cords, Laser Diodes, Connectors, MP3, Toslink, Hybrid Adapter and more: MiniPlug to Toslink Premium Optical Cable 0.05 to 50 meters

 email: info@sys-concept.com

 ***Optional Opamps to use*** 

 To further help with opamp and buffer combinations I have added the following as posted by HiFlight on 9 15 07:

 ""This evening I tried both the AD8397 and the LM4652 in the buffer sockets. The 4562 sounds better with the 2111, but I like the 8397 better with some of the other opamps. The 2111/4562 appears to be very synergistic! My personal preference, YMMV. Earlier today at the minimeet, Miguel had the 5532s as buffers and I had the 8397s in mine. We then compared a variety of other opamps in LR. Our preferences differed in our favorites for LR. 

 The AD8656 was the winner in the DAC socket. 

 It wasn't until after the meet that we tried the 4562 as a buffer. I was not sure it would work out, as the output power is MUCH less than the 8397, but I misjudged it, apparently. 

 What fun!!!!""

 9 18 2007

 Well my D1 is sounding better and better. I have replaced the coupling caps for the dac putput with Black Gate HiQ 47uf caps, the power supply cap for the low pass opamp with a Sanyo 150uf SG and the coupling caps for the amp section with Black Gate 47uf HiQ. All but two caps now are Sanyo for the digital section and Black Gates for the analogue section.

 The solder as I have noted before is very hard. If you use some normal solder to mix with it, it is much easy to wick up and work with. I was able to melt the solder and glide the cap leads into the hole without cleaning all the solder from the board. Cleaning all the solder is hard because some of the solder is still hard and doesn't wick well but when mixed you can wick some and heat the rest to allow the cap leads to go throw the hole.

 9 19 07

 ince modifying the D1 with Black Gates, and the settling/forming of these caps (I used some caps that had already been in a circuit so the forming of these Black Gates thankfully had already pretty much been done) the amp has taken on a very high end musical sound that I can not believe. I am glad that it is as big as it is so that I have room for the Black Gates and that there is room to change opamps and that it has a design that appears to be very good or the sound would not be at the level it is no matter what I do.

 Edit: The D1 has taken on a nice 3D presentation with very good spatial information and transparency.

 Posted by Hiflight on 9 19 2007

 "OPA2111: Very wide and expansive soundstage, very dimensional. 
 AD8066: Strong bass, good mids, good soundstage depth.
 ADA4841-2: Well balanced throughout the spectrum, sweet highs. 

 They all work very well with both buffers, just a matter of individual taste. The differences are relatively small, with subtle tonal and soundstage variations. The 8397 is slightly more assertive, the 4562 somewhat more intimate. 

 These should not be considered as the only opamps that sound good in the D1. They are simply my personal ranking. There are many others I have tried that also sound very good. 

 For those interested in experimenting with different opamps other than those listed above, I would encourage ordering a modest assortment of opamps directly from a distributor and determining ones own individual preferences. 

 It is very difficult to try to express verbally the subtle differences in SQ between several different opamps. What I hear and describe may be totally different than what someone else perceives.

 I can positively state that the improvements in both the DAC and amp sections of the D1 after modifications from stock are very apparent, even to the casual listener; furthermore, these improvements are apparent regardless of which phones I am using. 

 I should point out that as one improves the sonic quality and accuracy of any amp, it becomes less tolerant of poor source material or components!""

 ****Optical cables from Sys Concept*

 On the optical cables my measurements are just the cable but not the connector ends, which of course also add length. With the shortest I mention there is just enough length for a U and about 2cm from tip to tip on the U. this would allow for a iRiver or like device sitting on the D1. If you get it in toslink to toslink and get two of the right angle adapters, which work very well, you can have a short U not projecting out but lying along side of the ends of the D1 and iRiver. Or you could also get a mini to toslink (I got both) in the shorter length and have the U extending on out from the back of the units. I wish now I had gotten a tos to tos and ppurchased two 90 degree adapters. I also go the longer length in both toslink and mini to allow for a little more separation, though not much, or a different component with a toslink or mini out to the mini in of the D1. There, how is that. :^)

 The shortest length, end to end as specified by Sys. Concept is 9.5cm and the longer one I got is 13.5 from one end to the other end of the entire optical cable including ends.

 ***A great extra battery for many uses for the D1 and other portable electronics is the Tekkeon MP3450, which is an all contained battery and charging unit. I bought mine at Costwonder on Ebay.


 Posted by HiFlight on 10 5 2007:

*Info for Opamp Rollers!*
 There have been considerable posts recently regarding which is the "best" choice of opamp, as well as discussion regarding the possibility of delaying ordering the D1 until iBasso comes out with a "better" or "best" configuration. 

 That will NEVER happen! It is relatively easy for me to pick 5 or 6 good choices, but even when several of us really "hardcore" rollers get together for a mini-meet, we rarely agree on which sounds "best". My favorite is rarely the same as the others in attendance, and it often results in each individual favoring a different opamp. 

 It is even more difficult for iBasso to arrive at a configuration that will please everyone, as they have issues such as cost, availability and battery life to consider. They may choose to develop something entirely different, such as an amp that has an exterior power supply, or even a different circuit configuration. They will not, I can say with certainty, find one opamp that will be a magic bullet for everyone!. 

 Many feel that using different opamps in amplifier will result in coloration of the sound. Technically speaking, perhaps this is correct, but all music is colored to some degree or another by room acoustics, hall size, speakers or headphone characteristics, and even by our own personal physiology among other things. 

 Everyone has their individual preference for sound quality, such as "punchy" bass, lots of "presence", smoother highs, etc, etc, etc. 

 These are all simply different shades of coloration, and no one opamp will satisfy everyone, just as no specific brand of source, amp or phones can be called the "best". 

 I would suggest simply trying several different opamps and see how they sound. It is easy, relatively inexpensive, and one will undoubtedly find a configuration that sounds the BEST to you! 

 I have tried to suggest, based on many trials and combinations of opamps and benchmarked for sound quality against one of my high-end tube amps, to post a selection of opamps that will perhaps eliminate some trial and error in the selection process. I always consider battery life and reliability along with sound quality, as these are every bit as important as other factors when choosing a possible replacement for the factory defaults. 

 Please don't ask what is the BEST, because there is not an answer that will suit the tastes of all listeners!!! 

 Any of the opamps mentioned in previous posts as good swaps are fine choices, but in the end, the "best" choice is what YOU like!!!!

 Posted by HiFlight on 10 6 2007 on opamps:

 *********My personal favorite D1 configuration*
 Either the ADA4841-2 or LTC6241HV as LR with LMH6643 as buffers.

 All 3 are only available in the SOIC configuration and need to be soldered onto adapters.

 Posted by HiFlight on 10 7 2007 

 **********Low current draw=long battery life*
 I have found a very nice-sounding opamp combination that draws only 14ma total for all 5 opamps, (1DAC, 1L/R and 2 buffers) compared to the stock configuration that draws approx. 40 ma. In comparison, the OPA2111/LM4562/AD8656, while a fine-sounding combination, draws about 43ma. 

 This should result in significantly longer battery life even when using the full DAC/Amplifier combination. 

 Tonal balance, soundstage and detail are very good, with a clean, open sound. 

 The following are the opamps I used in this configuration:

 L/R: ADA4841-2
 Buffers: LMH6643
 DAC: LT6234

 One can substitue the LT6234 or the LTC6241HV for the ADA4841 with little audible difference. Also the ADA4841 works quite well in the DAC socket in place of the LT6234. 

 There are slight differences in the sound when changing LR opamps, but please do not ask me which is best. They are very close, and the choice will largely be determined by the choice of music, headphones, and personal preference. 

 I do find that with these combinations the sound quality is VERY close when switching the same source (iRiver H120) between the D1 Aux input and the Optical input, which tells me that the quality of the amplifier section is now equal to the quality of the DAC. 

 If using the D1 primarily by battery power rather than with an adapter, one might wish to try some of these low-current draw opamps.

*10 10 07 Opamp Update by HiFlight *

 HiFlight's latest... 

 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*by HiFlight 10 12 2007*

 In the ongoing but elusive search for musical perfection the rolling continues!

 The following configuration is probably one of my personal favorites:

 LTC6241HV L/R
 LMH6643 Buffers
 LMH6643 DAC

 All 3 are SOIC and need adapters.

 For those who might be interested in additional details, please PM or Email me.

 Opamp Datasheets
 For those opamp rollers who might be interested in researching some of the technical specifications of many of the opamps we have mentioned on this and other threads, I am reposting below a list of opamp datasheets I originally posted as a "Sticky" on the Xin forum. 

 *******************************



http://hjem.get2net.dk/tkhifi/data-blade/ad744.pdf AD744
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...eets/AD746.pdf AgnD746 (dual)
http://ist-socrates.berkeley.edu/~ph...iles/ad743.pdf AD743
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...eets/AD746.pdf AD746
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...751AD797_d.pdf AD797
http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NE5534-D.PDF NE5534
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/opa228.pdf OPA227/228
http://www.uib.es/depart/dfs/GTE/sta...ETT/OPA604.pdf OPA604
http://www.ociw.edu/instrumentation/...rts/OPA627.pdf OPA627
http://www.ociw.edu/instrumentation/ccd/parts/AD829.pdf AD 829
Analog Devices AD843 - 34 MHz, CBFET Fast Settling Op Amp AD843
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...eets/AD823.pdf AD823
http://ezphysics.nchu.edu.tw/prophys...eet/lt1028.pdf LT1028
http://www.linear.com/pc/downloadDoc...26,P1293,D1612 LT1115
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/naim/d...mps/ad8610.pdf AD8610
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...156OP275_c.pdf op275 (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/avy7k OP285 (dual)
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...22AD8397_0.pdf AD 8397 (dual)
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/opa2134.pdf OPA134, 2134 (dual)
http://www-micrel.deis.unibo.it/DATA_SHEETS/OPA128.pdf OPA128
http://www.fulcrum.ru/Read/CDROMs/TI...cs/sbos140.pdf OPA2111 (dual)
http://www.ociw.edu/instrumentation/...rts/LT1365.pdf LT 1364 (dual)
http://www.schuro.de/Daten/Burr%20Brown/OPA2107.PDF OPA2107 (dual)
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...D8065_8066.pdf AD8066 (dual)
http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/mm5..._datasheet.pdf AD825
http://tinyurl.com/ya9qbr AD822
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...1-1_4841-2.pdf ADA4841-2 (dual)
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ths4032.pdf THS 4032 (dual)
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...ets/AD8599.pdf AD8599 (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/25le6o LT6234 (dual)
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM4562.pdf LM4562 (dual)
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LME49720.pdf LME49720 (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/kpyrz AD8566 (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/j6kz8 AD8616 (6v !) (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/ehwcs AD8656 (6v !) Solid Tube (dual)
http://www.tranzistoare.ro/datasheets2/50/502419_1.pdf LTC6241HV Solid Tube WV (12v) (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/ykfqh5 EL8201 (Buffer) (6v !)
http://tinyurl.com/yh33gc AD8531 (Buffer)
http://tinyurl.com/yelsjy TLV4111 (Buffer)
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/buf634.pdf BUF634 (Buffer)
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LMH6642.pdf LMH6643 (Buffer) (dual)
http://www.asmeltec.de/dl0az/datasheets/HA5002.pdf HA5002 (Buffer)
http://eshop.engineering.uiowa.edu/N...3/DS012336.pdf LM6171 Buffer
 __________________

*10 27 2007 Post from Ron Hiflight*

 Try this one!
 Not content to leave well-enough alone, I decided to make some adapters using the Browndog single to dual DIP adapter to mount some of my opamps that I had used in my Xin amps and see if my all-time favorite for my SM-IV, the AD797, sounded as good in my D1. 

 I bypassed the buffer sockets with plug-in sockets that jumpered the input/outputs of both buffers, rendering them a straight wire. As the AD797 has a pretty good current output and extremely low noise as well as nearly perfect square-wave response, I figured that buffers would only downgrade the sound. I found this to be the case in the D1 as well as in the Xin amp.

 It is a very tight fit when putting in the 2-1 adapter for L&R, and requires bending a couple of caps to the side a small amount in order to seat the Browndog. 

 The resulting sound was certainly worth the effort, as it is even more spectacular in the D1 than in the SM-IV, due to the fact that the D1 seems to be very stable, even with fast opamps. At any rate, the sound is very full and warm, with deep fundemental bass that one can almost feel, especially when running an optical input. Trebles are clean and crisp with no excessive brightness or sibilence. Soundstage is very natural, with instrument placement very solid and stable. 

 I would say that the SQ is very similar to that experienced with high-end tube amps

 Due to space limitations on the 2-1 adapter, it is not possible to use 2 browndog mounted SOIC opamps, however most of the ones I used successfully in the Xin were of DIP configuration. 

 Rather than solder the opamps into the adapter, I soldered 2 standoff sockets onto the adapter, thereby making it quick and easy to change opamps while leaving the adapter in place. 

 If one really wanted to use browndog mounted SOIC single-channel opamps, the sockets could be soldered to the adapter at a slight angle, providing a little more room, however I doube that I will be trying too many other opamps, as I really like the sound of the bypassed 797s. 

 To summarize, if interested in trying this combo, one needs a 2-1 single to dual Browndog adapter (DIP), 4 sockets, 4 jumpers, and 2 AD797 DIP opamps. Soldering the sockets onto the adapter requires soldering 8 small pins that in are close proximity to each other. Solder bridges are NOT good! Once the sockets are done, the rest is quick and easy.

 ***** Quote from HiFlight*

 "I like more power and higher slew rate for buffers. AD8397 and LMH6643 are hard to beat for buffers if you need to drive low-impedance phones. 

 For higher impedances and especially if they are pretty efficient phones, the LME49720 is a very nice sounding opamp buffer. They have limited output power though."

 Then in a sperate post, or PM (I forget)

 "LMH 6643 is [another] choice for the buffer sockets, making the choice for buffer: 

 AD8397: (bold, works well for rock, most output power)

 LMH6643: Smooth, warm, nice with bright phones)

 LME49720: Nice frequency balance, superb soundstage. Great choice for instrumental and complex harmonies."


 Ron Kerlin

*From a post by Dual:*






 Heres some DIY dummy opamps I just cooked up to bypass the buffers for the AD797.
 They are very simple to make all you need to do is short pins 1-3 and 5-7 on the socket with some thin metal wire.
 You don't even need to solder them in if the wire is a tight fit but do so anyway just to be safe.

 I perfer the AD797 with bypass buffers than with 2x AD8397.

*12 24 07 post by musicmaker:*

 After several permutations & combinations of LR, buffer, DAC opamps, I have found a combo that sounds the best to my ears.

 LR: AD797, buffers: bypassed & DAC: LT6241

*12 25 07 by musicmaker:*
 Here are the opamps I've tried:

 OPA2111, AD797, LMH6643, LM4562, LT1364, LT6241, LT6234, AD8656, AD8397, AD8599, LME4972 & stock of course

*1 9 2008 Pete7 *

 I did do a little more comparing with the D1 amp section and the P2. This time in the D1 I used THS4032 with the LMH6643's (which come stock now) as buffers, and in the P2 I used THS4032 in L/R and LT4236 in 3/4. The P2 definitely sounds like the better amp, although the difference isn't all that noticeable unless you really look for it. With the P2 the sound is a little more textured and detailed, and the soundstage is closer, music a little more impactful. Both sound terrific, and if I had to give a percentage difference between the two it would be like 3-4%. I think I'm giving AD797's a break in both units as now I want a more balanced sound. The THS4032's seem to have a little more in the highs. The AD797's with the buffers bypassed sounded pretty decent in the D1, but with my ES2's it sounded a little dark.

*1 24 2009 HeadphoneAddict*

 If the new ones come with 6234 in DAC, LT1364 in L/R and LMH6643 in buffers, there isn't a huge reason to change anything.

 Mine had AD8616 in DAC stock, and the AD8656 was much better, while the LT6234 was an additional upgrade above that.

 Mine had AD823 stock, and I tried the OPA2111 withAD8397 in the buffers and it was a noticeable upgrade, but then I tried the AD797 in L/R with those AD8397 in buffers, and the sound is tremendous.

 You should take out the LMH6643 from buffers and try the AD8397 with the AD797 - you get great smooth detailed highs, warm forward mids, and tight quick strong bass. With the opamps I have in it now it sounds very much like my P2 did, and everyone agrees the P2 is a great sounding amp.

*1 29 2008 Posted by HiFlight*

 Winner and still champion!
 After all the months spent rolling opamps and various cap mods to my D1, I finally went back to an opamp I had used very successfully with my Xin amps..the AD743.

 This was my favorite opamp when most of the amps were designed for single-channel opamps. I had almost forgotten about it.

 The AD743 is not well-known in audio circles, as it is primarily designed for sonar applications. Nontheless, it is smooth, accurate, and has great low-end depth and impact; it also renders all types of music with a very lifelike and realistic soundstage.

 I am using the 743 with the LMH6655 buffers. I feel they are a bit more accurate than is the LMH6643.

 My top 3 opamp choices for the D1 are: AD743 (single), AD797 (single), THS4032 (dual)

 The 797 has more bass, the 4032 has more detail and transient response, but the 743 is just overall "right" to me.

*1 31 2008 Haymaker18*

 To take a page from Hiflight, the AD743 and LMH6655 just "sounds right"

 Unlike some of the others, I can't really describe a particular strength of it because it doesn't sound colored or unbalanced to me...just natural and right.


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## Jamfan16

That looks pretty sweet. Any idea on pricing?

 I was going to look into HR's new Portable Micro, but this has got my attention now.


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## jamato8

I posted the price that I believe it to be above. I got tired with all the portable dacs that always had just the usb and frankly not the best of dac chips and no optical in. This one uses one of my favorite companies and whose chips I have used for years. 40 hours on a charge is nice to, considering everything that it can do.


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## Computerstud

That thing looks sweet. $229 is a very competitive price. 
 Who's gonna take one for the team?

 jamato8, are you up for it?


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## Jamfan16

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Computerstud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That thing looks sweet. $229 is a very competitive price. 
 Who's gonna take one for the team?

 jamato8, are you up for it?_

 

For $229, I might take one for _myself_!


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## jamato8

I have been waiting so long there is no way to stop me on this one! :^) I have liked the last offerings of iBasso and though I listen most of the time to the Xin Reference, the T2 is a nice little amp so I can only imagine the D1 will be even better and with good quality chips and hopefully well done circuitry, the amp and dac should be good sounding. I also like the looks of the case, from what I can see of it. I like the thicker milled front pieces like that.


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## kramer5150

Wow thats quite reasonable, interested in your impressions, for use with my PCDP optical out.

 Now if only there were a DAP with an optical output.


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## Computerstud

I just read over the specs again. That is one great piece of hardware. 
 1) Rechargeable built in
 2) AC adapter included
 3) SPDIF
 4) USB
 5) Great DAC chip

 The move is annoying with no battery, no ac adapter, average dac chip, no built in recharge mechanism, and cost more than this little new intro. I might take one and compare it to the move. 

 Why did you post this Jamato8? I hate you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 no seriously, I hate you


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## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Computerstud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just read over the specs again. That is one great piece of hardware. 
 1) Rechargeable built in
 2) AC adapter included
 3) SPDIF
 4) USB
 5) Great DAC chip

 The move is annoying with no battery, no ac adapter, average dac chip, no built in recharge mechanism, and cost more than this little new intro. I might take one and compare it to the move. 

 Why did you post this Jamato8? I hate you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 no seriously, I hate you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sorry, what can I say?? I can't wait to get one. All in one, great chips, many options, damn this is too good. Now to wait. 

 Sorry again, oh, I am so sorry. . .


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## Jamfan16

Anybody else catch this?:
 "When there is SPDIF signal inputing, this port is Line Out, otherwise, it is Line In."

 That's slick.


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## Computerstud

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Sorry again, oh, I am so sorry. . . 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hmmmm....I can't help but sense a hidden meaning within your apology. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You got me sold, I'm gonna go look under the couch, my girlfriend's jacket, and count my pennies in the jar for this bad boy. Hope it's as good as the move. With the upgraded DAC, it should out perform the Move (DAC part). 

 What opamp is the D1 using? Wonder if it can drive my k701? Any idea on the power of the ibasso D1?


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## jamato8

I had to read through the specs twice to catch everything. I saw that, I can't believe all the versatility.


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## LoweArt

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had to read through the specs twice to catch everything. I saw that, I can't believe all the versatility._

 

What can I say after reading those specs, but WOW, WOW, WOW !

 Is there anything this little beauty won't do ?????? Sex for your ears !

 Sorry about your wallet Jamato8 !


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## Kabeer

LOL, they have to release this thing AFTER I got an iMod. Otherwise this would have answered all my prayers for my iriver h140. Now I doubt id get it.


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## tek

The specs looks good. Can't wait for reviews...especially a comparison to the Move.


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Computerstud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just read over the specs again. That is one great piece of hardware. 
 1) Rechargeable built in
 2) AC adapter included
 3) SPDIF
 4) USB
 5) Great DAC chip

 The move is annoying with no battery, no ac adapter, average dac chip, no built in recharge mechanism, and cost more than this little new intro. I might take one and compare it to the move. 

 Why did you post this Jamato8? I hate you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 no seriously, I hate you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, but I wonder about how the AMP part compares to the MOVE.


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## Pibborando

Not really a fan of the nano styled iBasso stuff, so this thing is looking HOT.


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## jpnz

Build quality looks great this time, but still dislike the Ibasso font...it is not easy to be a perfectionist
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .


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## Postal_Blue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kramer5150* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow thats quite reasonable, interested in your impressions, for use with my PCDP optical out.

 Now if only there were a DAP with an optical output._

 

Iriver h1x0.


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## SONGsanmanwah

Wow. Can't wait to hear your impressions jamato8!


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## globiboulga

From the specs it looks pretty good. Love to hear the comparison with the Move both on the DAC and Amp sides. It is significantly bigger though... I see it as a portable amp for laptop, unless a test can confirm it's practicle to carry around with a mp3 player.


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## Skylab

Has anyone else noticed that this "new" iBasso DAC/AMP looks *amazingly* like the Mini-Audio MAD-1 DAC/AMP, which has been out for a long time:






 I reviewed it quite a while back...they appear identical physically, but the iBasso version appears to have a very useful USB input added.


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## Dual

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone else noticed that this "new" iBasso DAC/AMP looks *amazingly* like the Mini-Audio MAD-1 DAC/AMP, which has been out for a long time:






 I reviewed it quite a while back...they appear identical physically, but the iBasso version appears to have a very useful USB input added._

 


 "D1 is successor to Mini-Audio MAD01, which is a successful design of portable DAC/AMP combo, but did not attract much attention. D1 better addresses some shortages on MAD01, and has USB-DAC ability."


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## Skylab

OK, I missed that, sorry, so "Mini-Audio" and iBasso are sort of the same company I guess???


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## PPkiller

i wonder how my 0404 usb fare compared with this little guy.. ^-^


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## Dexdexter

This just might be ideal for both my MacBook and Sony CD Walkman D-EJ2000!


----------



## LepakVT

this looks sweet. I may sell my T2 and get one of these right away.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Musique* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One thing we know is that "opamp + BUF" should be better than "opamp - BUF". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, but will that stack up to our EARS.


----------



## Computerstud

Don't be too quick to sell your gear LepakVT.

 The D1 looks very reminiscent of the Mini-Audio MAD01 with USB added. They even have the same DAC chip. 

 Take a look around the forum for the Mini-Audio, I believe Sky reviewed it. However, it did not receive stellar marks from the man.

 It appears to be quite large, though I can't exactly pin-point how big it really is.


----------



## warrior05

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Computerstud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't be too quick to sell your gear LepakVT.

 The D1 looks very reminiscent of the Mini-Audio MAD01 with USB added. They even have the same DAC chip. 

 Take a look around the forum for the Mini-Audio, I believe Sky reviewed it. However, it did not receive stellar marks from the man.

 It appears to be quite large, though I can't exactly pin-point how big it really is._

 

Looks like you missed post #23 and #24. Take a look at Sky's pic. He shows the MAD01 with a 1/8" plug inserted and gives and idea of at least height and width. Looks pretty compact. Very interesting unit indeed.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Computerstud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't be too quick to sell your gear LepakVT.

 The D1 looks very reminiscent of the Mini-Audio MAD01 with USB added. They even have the same DAC chip. 

 Take a look around the forum for the Mini-Audio, I believe Sky reviewed it. However, it did not receive stellar marks from the man._

 

Perhaps, but no too bad either:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, how does it sound?

 Well, pretty good! I hooked it up to a Rotel CD player that cost $700 about 10 years ago. And the Rotel sounded better. But the MAD-1 wasn't totally embarassed. It still had nice clarity, decent soundstaging, punchy bass, and reasonably clean and transparent mids. The Rotel sounded better in basically every possible way, but not by a huge margin, which says good things about the MAD-1.

 As a headphone amp, again driven by the Rotel's coax output, it sounded quite good. It did a fine job driving my DT990/250's. The sound was competitive with amps like the ibasso P1 and the Xenos 0HA-REP. It wasn't as good as amps like the Xenos 1HA, or my RSA amps, but it was a pretty good headphone amp compared to similarly priced portables. Again, it had punchy bass, was reasonably transparent and neutral, and was suprisingly free of noise and hiss._

 

Looks like they've upped the battery life from 10-12 hours to 40 hours now, as well as addressed other concerns that Skylab mentioned in his earlier review.

 I'm most interested in using it as a DAC. But if they've also managed to improve the amp section in the bargain, it would be a nice bonus. Color me intrigued!


----------



## Computerstud

Yeah, I'm looking at this as mainly as a portable DAC in conjunction with the move. 

 Wonder how it compares to the heavy weights (Micro DAC, Emu 0404)?


----------



## jamato8

I asked a few questions of iBassa and it appears everything was reworked and it is not the same device, though it shares some of the looks. I would imagine they have learned many things from both the T1 and T2 and the P1. From the message they feel it is better sounding than any of their other offerings at this time. They also said a P2 is coming out. The mobile amp and dac world is changing rapidly and I am enjoying it. :^)


----------



## globiboulga

It is significantly bigger than the Move.
 Thank god for the change in the DAC world. I still think there is some room for improvement though.


----------



## jamato8

With everything inside of this I guess it would be hard to make it a whole lot smaller at this time but who knows. I think the batteries, with the present size required will be a factor but when I consider the size of my Monica II dac and an amp it is smaller than the combo and all in one case. 

 I just upgraded my Monica II with 220uF Black Gate nonpolar in super E configuration for the power supply to the dac chip. It will be hard to beat but then most home units aren't better or as good.


----------



## ath

I too was shocked to see that it looks like my Mini Audio MAD-01. The specs for D2 talk about the new DAC chip does it mean that the amp [part of it is still the same. Two AD797's if I remember right. The nice thing was these chips were socketed and allowed rolling opamps.


----------



## jamato8

The amp section uses a AD823 with two 5532 buffers. I have used the 823 and I like the 5532 buffers, I guess as usual it will all be implementation. The unit from the information I got is totally redesigned.


----------



## Shevlock

How big is this in comparison to the move?


----------



## Shevlock

I just ordered my move, and I'm a little put off that I saw this the day that my move came in. This has optical out AND rechargeable batteries, two things that were lacking in the move but had no other alternative...


----------



## jamato8

I was going to order a Move but I have no use for just usb. I emailed about the Move but because of the chip used there is no way that optical can be used. So you have to replace the batteries on the move/they are not rechargable in the unit?


----------



## ath

With all the upgrades over the Mini Audio unit, this amp should be an excellent choice for Iriver H120/140 owners. I was pretty impressed with the Mini Audio unit. Used to carry it around with me but of late it is staying home more often. I replaced the 797's with AD822 and LMH6643 for buffer. Sounded pretty good IMHO.


----------



## monolith

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Shevlock* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How big is this in comparison to the move?_

 

Move: 9.6 x 6.3 x 2.8 cm

 iBasso: 12.0 x 7.8 x 3.2 cm

 Looks like the Move is quite a bit smaller.


----------



## Jamfan16

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *monolith* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Move: 9.6 x 6.3 x 2.8 cm

 iBasso: 12.0 x 7.8 x 3.2 cm

 Looks like the Move is quite a bit smaller._

 

Unless I screwed up my Maf, the Move is 57% as big as the iBasso by volume.


----------



## Jamfan16

Does it look like the recessed jacks will prevent a larger plug (like a Headphile mini plug) from making a full connection?


----------



## jamato8

I emailed iBasso again because a lot of questions posted here are questions I also have. They said that the dac design is new and the amp section is also a total redesign and the parts are of a higher quality than the amp/dac the D1 replaces. It also has many more capabilities. I really look forward to hearing this thing.

 edit: The ID of the jacks for the plugs is 11mm.


----------



## jpelg

Oooooh...daddy like 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Thanks for posting this!


----------



## BrookR1

Damn...my T2 JUST arrived. Had I known, I probably would have held out for this.


----------



## ttol

Same here.. just got T2 last week, and now I REALLY want one of these babies to be my new office setup


----------



## jamato8

Yes but the T2 is so small. It is great to just stick in your pocket and you don't even know its there. Now the D1 is going to pull just. I think the application of each one is a little different.


----------



## epaludo

This baby is indeed very tempting. If i did't have a MicroDAC and a "M" Hornet already ...


----------



## Sherlock19

just curious does anyone know if this amp will run a pair of DT770's well if so im pretty sure that will be my next setup


----------



## jamato8

With the buffers it has there is no reason it wouldn't. I emailed them and asked if it would drive the AKG 701's and they said no problem.


----------



## splawren

jamato8 - are you getting this early (meaning before August 10) to do a review, or are you just getting one of these as soon as it comes out?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *splawren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_jamato8 - are you getting this early (meaning before August 10) to do a review, or are you just getting one of these as soon as it comes out?_

 

I hope to get one when they come out.


----------



## Sherlock19

wow that really enthuses me that they will drive the DT770's i just bought a corda move and SR-60's but wanna guess what my next two purchases will be XD


----------



## Mandrake

Hi,

 Does anyone know if the D1 will recharge via USB? That would be sweet!


----------



## PeterDLai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpnz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Build quality looks great this time, but still dislike the Ibasso font...it is not easy to be a perfectionist
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ._

 

Agreed. My lust over the CORDA MOVE diminished after I found out its color scheme. I'd prefer an all-black case.


----------



## jamato8

I was happy to learn that the D1 will have the flat anodized finish, which I much prefer to the glossy finish I have on a few amps though the finish on the Micro Tube amp, which is glossy, looks good but on a portable I like the more durable anodized finish. Anodizing actually makes the surface of aluminum tougher and more resistant.


----------



## nc8000

That looks great. Wonder how it would work as a dac/preamp feeding a Xin Reference as the poweramp ? I love the sound of my Reference but need at small optical dac to go with it.


----------



## jamato8

Well it can work as a stand alone dac, from what I read, but using the Reference as an amp might be an interesting combination.


----------



## nc8000

The pre/power amp idea I got from you.

 I was getting desperate enough to consider ordering a MicroDAC (after trying my pcdp with dennyl's Berensford DAC in UK) but this seems like a much more interesting product and smaller and with much longer battery life.


----------



## jamato8

I have two different Reference amps and tried the combo of a pre and amp and I liked the results. The Reference I use based on the Micro is extremely good so that is what I use most all the time but using it as an amp would be fun. Also comparing the Reference and my Monica II to the D1 will be a true reference for the D1 to go up against, imo. I will be curious as to what the insides of the D1 looks like. Imagine the size if chips weren't getting smaller and smaller. :^)


----------



## LepakVT

I can't wait to hear how this sounds. And it's a good size to use with my laptop in a dorm and I can use my T2 as my on the run solution.


----------



## Dexdexter

I'm in, just pulled the trigger this morning!


----------



## MaloS

Excellent, I am awaiting some impressions. If they did things right, it should match the quality of the Micro DAC.


----------



## drlee27

Is it for sale now?


----------



## jamato8

I would imagine you can order one. It says the 10th. If it were closer I would drive over and get one but I would have to get a really, really good run at it with my little Mitsubishi all wheel drive turbo. I just had a new motor dropped in it but I haven't tested its wheels in water yet. 

 I have to move soon, again, but I hope I can get one before I move. 

 I did email them and found out the optical cable is toslink to toslink so if you need a mini to toslink (it uses toslink out), I have an excellent quality place I buy them from in Canada that will make any length with high quality ends. I also have them do a special heat shrink for the ends with a curve built in and they use a special glue to really secure everything but this has to be asked for.


----------



## nc8000

Jamato, could you pass that Canadian connection on ? I would love a good quality 6" or so optical cable, the one I have is like 3' long.

 I gained another piece of info today from them. The 40 hours battery life is when used as an amp alone. If using the dac as well battery life drops to about 20 hours.


----------



## jamato8

I wondered about that, well 20 hours of dac and amp isn't bad. My Monica II dac gets around 12 hours, which is good for a good days use. With Monica, I have extra battery packs. I wonder how long it works as a dac only, I would guess around 40 hours or so.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Jamato, could you pass that Canadian connection on ? I would love a good quality 6" or so optical cable, the one I have is like 3' long.

 I gained another piece of info today from them. The 40 hours battery life is when used as an amp alone. If using the dac as well battery life drops to about 20 hours._

 

Here is the link for the optical connectors. Mark it well because I once lost it and it isn't easy to find but they make excellent optical connectors that are better than glass and look great. You also have a choice of many different colors in the connectors, which is cool. 

http://www.sysconcept.ca/product_inf...roducts_id=254

 When ordered you put the length you require in the comments box as you can't order it but in lengths shown but you can put the request in the comments box and also that you want it heat shrunk and angled, if that is what you want. Also measure from connector to connector not just the length of optical cable or it might be too long or short. I have about 4 different lengths and I have mini to mini and mini to toslink.


----------



## nc8000

Great, thanks. Have placed an order for a 6" blue with blue plugs cable. Should go great with my blue kt88 cables.


----------



## jamato8

Make sure you get the cable that is 15.60 as the starting price and not the cheaper cable. I have one cable that is 6 inches end to end one that is 7 inches end to end and some others and for portable I use the shortest one all the time. Great portable sound that is good as home, nothin could be finer.


----------



## sum1

Can this device be powered by the USB just by itself or it still need a battery for it


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm in, just pulled the trigger this morning! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I can't quite see on the iBasso site how you put it into your basket and buy it.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Make sure you get the cable that is 15.60 as the starting price and not the cheaper cable. I have one cable that is 6 inches end to end one that is 7 inches end to end and some others and for portable I use the shortest one all the time. Great portable sound that is good as home, nothin could be finer._

 


 Yes that's the one I got.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wondered about that, well 20 hours of dac and amp isn't bad. My Monica II dac gets around 12 hours, which is good for a good days use. With Monica, I have extra battery packs. I wonder how long it works as a dac only, I would guess around 40 hours or so._

 

No in dac mode the amplification circuts are still active so "only" 20 hours but still a lot better than the 8-9 hours on a Headroom MicroDac.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't quite see on the iBasso site how you put it into your basket and buy it._

 

I ordered mine directly via email. Later today it ought to be possible to order it via the web site.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I ordered mine directly via email. Later today it ought to be possible to order it via the web site._

 

Yes, I used direct e-mail also.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can this device be powered by the USB just by itself or it still need a battery for it_

 

No, it uses the batteries because the usb does not have a high enough voltage.


----------



## sum1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, it uses the batteries because the usb does not have a high enough voltage._

 

Thanks for the info. I dont see any switches on the pics of the amp there so is it safe to assume that it doesnt have a bass boost like the T1/T2 or maybe there is jumper switch inside it


----------



## jamato8

From what I know there isn't a bass boost but then I don't use one if available anyway. I have found that good headphone, earphone, and IEM's generally don't need it if they are fairly accurate and it is just something else in the circuit.


----------



## LepakVT

I want to order one now but I need to buy textbooks for school first!


----------



## jamato8

Ah who needs school! go for it. I don't need no stinking school.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

I love that power button! 

 Nothing original, but I think it looks nice, and is easy to press on and off.


----------



## LepakVT

I'll wait to pull the trigger until I hear some impressions though. Did you order one today, jamato8? We'll probably hear some impressions within the next week or two. I'm trying to decide between the D1 or the EMU 0404 USB as my college dorm listening setup. I like my T2 so much that I might stick with iBasso for my next purchase though


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll wait to pull the trigger until I hear some impressions though. Did you order one today, jamato8? We'll probably hear some impressions within the next week or two. I'm trying to decide between the D1 or the EMU 0404 USB as my college dorm listening setup. I like my T2 so much that I might stick with iBasso for my next purchase though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Why not the Corda MOVE? Too expensive? IMO, the 0404 amp is decent at best, while the MOVE has a very good amp section. We'll see about the iBasso.


----------



## LepakVT

The MOVE is a possibility too definitely, but I do like the included AC adapter and rechargeable batteries of the D1. I like the little niceties like that. I'll do some reading up on the MOVE, though.

 d'oh and look at that. within 5 seconds of looking at the MOVE's spec sheet I see that it can be USB powered which is great to use with my laptop wherever, but I think I would still want an external power supply.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The MOVE is a possibility too definitely, but I do like the included AC adapter and rechargeable batteries of the D1. I like the little niceties like that. I'll do some reading up on the MOVE, though.

 d'oh and look at that. within 5 seconds of looking at the MOVE's spec sheet I see that it can be USB powered which is great to use with my laptop wherever, but I think I would still want an external power supply._

 

Yeah definitely. I would too. Of course the MOVE is much more expensive. I'm really waiting to try one of these out. I'm at college right now, and I sold my more expensive gear cause I want to downgrade to a DAC/AMP combo for under $300.


----------



## LepakVT

What do you mean much more expensive? Before shipping the D1 is $229 and the MOVE can be had for $235 at TTVJ before shipping or $240 directly from the Meier homepage.


----------



## OverlordXenu

I can't wait to hear some comparisons to the Micro DAC/Micro Stack!

 Are there any plans on offering it in a smaller package? I would like to use a LISA III as an amp with a DAC (that is, if my optical X5 idea pans out).

 Or, is it possible to use this as just a DAC? I only really skimmed the specs.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you mean much more expensive? Before shipping the D1 is $229 and the MOVE can be had for $235 at TTVJ before shipping or $240 directly from the Meier homepage._

 

Adding the AC charger puts the MOVE higher.


----------



## jamato8

I think the dac conversion in the iBasso is of higher quality and it can take on optical or coaxal digital in vs only usb. I thought about the Move and like the quality build but I really like all of the features of the D1. I should have one in a week or so, I hope.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the dac conversion in the iBasso is of higher quality and it can take on optical or coaxal digital in vs only usb. I thought about the Move and like the quality build but I really like all of the features of the D1. I should have one in a week or so, I hope._

 

Do you have a MOVE to compare it to? I would love to hear comparisons of them since I'll be buying one or the other soon.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *OverlordXenu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't wait to hear some comparisons to the Micro DAC/Micro Stack!

 Are there any plans on offering it in a smaller package? I would like to use a LISA III as an amp with a DAC (that is, if my optical X5 idea pans out).

 Or, is it possible to use this as just a DAC? I only really skimmed the specs._

 

Yes the D1 can be used solely as a dac. When it receives a spdif signal on any of the 3 input ports on the back the line-in plug on the front converts to being a line-out instead. That is how I expect to be using it connected to my Xin Reference but I will give the amp part of it a try as well. Also I will try it as a preamp with the Reference as the poweramp as per jamato's suggestion. I will not have it for at least 2 weeks as I go travelling tomorrow.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why not the Corda MOVE?_

 

While I understand, this question wasn't directed at me here, I was asked the same by one of my Head-Fi pals via PM. So I'll share my reply to him anyway...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





:

 In a word: flexibility. Sure the D1, like the Corda Move, is a combination headphone amplifier / USB DAC. And they are approximately the same size. But there the similarity would appear to end.

 The D1 also accepts Optical and Coaxial inputs for the DAC, while the Move does not. So I can use it with my wonderful Sony CD Walkman D-EJ2000 on the go, which has an optical out.

 And its ability to function as a stand-alone DAC really seals the deal. So I'll have the flexibility of using the D1 at home with my MacBook & CanAmp, or even feeding my loudspeaker system. The Move can only provide DAC functions for, well, the Move, as far as I can tell.

 Also, the DAC chips themselves contained within the D1 seem to be very highly regarded, and the sampling frequency tops out at 24bit/192KHz, while the Move goes to 48 kHz. (Of course, whether or not this means anything in my applications, I cannot yet say...maybe someone can put this into proper perspective?)

 Finally, the D1 runs off of 2 rechargeable Lithium-ion batteries with a play time of up to 40 hours. Not too shabby convenience-wise and could save some money down the road (until, of course, they eventually need replacing).

 So, honestly, I'm not too concerned if the amp section itself is not the best; I really need the DAC-functionality which can feed either my Go-Vibe at 22v or the CanAmp or my Hi-Fi rig, etc.

 Naturally, I'm hoping for the best, and if the amplifier section turns out to be fabulous, it will be icing on the cake! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I haven't had the pleasure of hearing the Move yet, but I'll be visiting Hans of Qables again very soon. Since he carries the Meier range, we can probably have us a mini-shootout!


----------



## dw6928

I have found the amplification of the Move to be its strongest suit. It is absolutely wonderful, and was on par with the SR71 and Larocco I recently had on loan.


----------



## nc8000

Just received an email stating that my amp will ship on monday


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received an email stating that my amp will ship on monday 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've also found the iBasso folks to be impressively on top of their correspondence.


----------



## jamato8

Yes, it is nice to get a response to emails. I know they have put up with a number of them from me on many questions. I am anxious, if I haven't said that already :6) to get the D1. The 8620 with buffers should be a pretty good amp if done right.


----------



## LepakVT

Like Dexdexter said, the flexibility of the D1 is why I currently want it more than the MOVE at the moment, but reading that gigantic thread about the MOVE and all of the good things surely makes it look like a great purchase. I know I won't regret my purchase if I get either one.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Like Dexdexter said, the flexibility of the D1 is why I currently want it more than the MOVE at the moment, but reading that gigantic thread about the MOVE and all of the good things surely makes it look like a great purchase. I know I won't regret my purchase if I get either one._

 

I'm exactly in your position. I also like the little extras the D1 comes with. I want to get one or the other of these soon!


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it is nice to get a response to emails. I know they have put up with a number of them from me on many questions._

 

It certainly is, as I'm sure that anyone like me who follows LaRocco and Xin threads can relate. That iBasso have gotten back to me sometimes within mere hours of my contacting them is quite commendable, especially considering the obvious time and language differences involved. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am anxious, if I haven't said that already :6) to get the D1. The 8620 with buffers should be a pretty good amp if done right._

 

So you can confirm that it's the 8620, then? I neglected to ask specifics about the op-amp. If so, that's fantastic, I really enjoy the sound of the 8620 in my Go-Vibe V5S.

 Did you happen to ask also whether or not it is socketed for op-amp rolling?

 Fairly bursting with anticipation now.


----------



## dw6928

Dex, are you anticipating the D1 to be similar in sound (amp part only) to Norm's amps?


----------



## nc8000

In the blurp on the iBasso site it says the following :

 "In the amplification part, D1 has op AD823 + BUF two NE5532 structure to ensure high quality music playback with 10dB gain. Also, there is DIP sockets design for opamp rolling."

 So it does not look like it is 8620 but it seems you can roll the opamp.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In the blurp on the iBasso site it says the following :

 "In the amplification part, D1 has op AD823 + BUF two NE5532 structure to ensure high quality music playback with 10dB gain. Also, there is DIP sockets design for opamp rolling."

 So it does not look like it is 8620 but it seems you can roll the opamp._

 

How do AD823's generally sound?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dw6928* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dex, are you anticipating the D1 to be similar in sound (amp part only) to Norm's amps?_

 

Wayne, I honestly have no idea what to expect, which only serves to heighten the suspense! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'm not exactly a technical guy; sure I read a few things here and try to comprehend them. And from that standpoint, all the ingredients of the D1 certainly seem compelling. Of course, the proof's in the execution, so we're still left staring into the great unknown here.

 Again, the amp section is the least of my concerns. Nonetheless, I'm encouraged by the sound that iBasso have been able to wrangle from the minuscule T2, so I'm hoping that the D1 at least plays in the same ballpark of the Go-Vibe. Heck, I've never even owned a DAC before, so this is gonna be a real adventure for me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Wonder how it might compare to your MicroDAC?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In the blurp on the iBasso site it says the following :

 "In the amplification part, D1 has op AD823 + BUF two NE5532 structure to ensure high quality music playback with 10dB gain. Also, there is DIP sockets design for opamp rolling."

 So it does not look like it is 8620 but it seems you can roll the opamp._

 

Hmmm, they _just_ added that, then, 'cause it's not on the page I've been looking at:

http://www.ibasso.com/ShowNews.aspx?ID=60

 Still great news for me, though, since I already have the 8620 and LM4562 (among others) ready to roll! 

 Nice to see that the iBasso elves are working diligently through the weekend!


----------



## dw6928

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wayne, I honestly have no idea what to expect, which only serves to heighten the suspense! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm not exactly a technical guy; sure I read a few things here and try to comprehend them. And from that standpoint, all the ingredients of the D1 certainly seem compelling. Of course, the proof's in the execution, so we're still left staring into the great unknown here.

 Again, the amp section is the least of my concerns. Nonetheless, I'm encouraged by the sound that iBasso have been able to wrangle from the minuscule T2, so I'm hoping that the D1 at least plays in the same ballpark of the Go-Vibe. Heck, I've never even owned a DAC before, so this is gonna be a real adventure for me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Wonder how it might compare to your MicroDAC?_

 

It is your's for the asking. Loansrus


----------



## jamato8

Yes, it is the AD823, which has a pretty good reputation, and the buffers as mentioned.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dw6928* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is your's for the asking. Loansrus_

 

Heh-heh, don't get me started on that slippery slope, WW!


----------



## dw6928

the dac might enjoy a couple of weeks of vacation.


----------



## souperman

Oh wow, the shipping on these is actually quite expensive. This actually puts the price on par with a MOVE if you buy a 12V charger for the MOVE.


----------



## LepakVT

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh wow, the shipping on these is actually quite expensive. This actually puts the price on par with a MOVE if you buy a 12V charger for the MOVE._

 

hmmm, indeed it does. This will be a tough decision to make between the D1 and the MOVE, won't it, souperman?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmmm, indeed it does. This will be a tough decision to make between the D1 and the MOVE, won't it, souperman? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

We can make it together! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm generally more concerned about the amp more than the DAC, as the amp must be good since I won't be using it ever as a standalone DAC. That puts the MOVE out in front ATM.


----------



## LepakVT

Same here. I'll be using USB out from my laptop primarily for my music listening. I don't think the D1's amp will be a slouch, but I wonder how it will fare against the MOVE.

 The D1's support for being a standalone DAC is something that I like in case I get a separate amp in the future. The top of the line Cirrus Logic DAC chip looks to be quite nice. But I won't be getting a separate amp anytime soon after this purchase, so the amp's gotta be good too! It's only a waiting game now until the first impressions of the D1 start rolling in.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Same here. I'll be using USB out from my laptop primarily for my music listening. I don't think the D1's amp will be a slouch, but I wonder how it will fare against the MOVE.

 The D1's support for being a standalone DAC is something that I like in case I get a separate amp in the future. The top of the line Cirrus Logic DAC chip looks to be quite nice. It's only a waiting game now until the first impressions of the D1 start rolling in._

 

Indeed. What kind of sound signature in the amp are you looking for? I'm looking for punchy bass mostly, very smooth mids, and clear highs but not too shrill.


----------



## LepakVT

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed. What kind of sound signature in the amp are you looking for? I'm looking for punchy bass mostly, very smooth mids, and clear highs but not too shrill._

 

pretty much the same as you. I also use MS1 with taped bowls and I think an amp that can provide more punch to the bass and keep the highs sounding great without getting shrill will be great. I think the taped bowls on the MS1 give good bass but I would like just a bit more.


----------



## sum1

Just curious how much is the shipping cost for this thing? I cant seem to find the info on their website.


----------



## Onizuka-gto

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpnz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Build quality looks great this time, but still dislike the Ibasso font...it is not easy to be a perfectionist
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ._

 

I know what you mean, the front looks very generic.

 I would of thought that iBasso with its flair for "style" would at leased design it to fit in line with its other products....


----------



## jamato8

Maybe one of those Italian designers? Maybe a hardwood faceplate? Well I just want to hear it but it is always funn to get something stylish but I don't think it looks bad and the case is supposed to be anodized with a hard duller finish rather than the shiny finish. I would like one in red anodized.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just curious how much is the shipping cost for this thing? I cant seem to find the info on their website._

 

I do'nt know how much it is to Australia, but it's about 20-25 dollars in US.


----------



## Onizuka-gto

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe one of those Italian designers? Maybe a hardwood faceplate? Well I just want to hear it but it is always funn to get something stylish but I don't think it looks bad and the case is supposed to be anodized with a hard duller finish rather than the shiny finish. I would like one in red anodized._

 

heh. i bet you were rolling on the floor with laughter when you saw the iBasso T1 & T2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 But on the "stylish" point, i meant in the same theme as the iBasso T1 & T2.

 That doesn't mean it will be all reflective polished metal (i really hate that, so many finger prints/scratches).

 I just thought it would go down a more...less large bloody knobs and protrusions, rounded surfaces. Something iBasso-like.

 but meh. maybe i'm asking too much?

 perhaps they actually hate the T1 & T2 style and want to give a more serious and professional appeal, with the familiar large volume knobs and indented frontal sockets....


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do'nt know how much it is to Australia, but it's about 20-25 dollars in US._

 

Shipping to Denmark was $26


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Onizuka-gto* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know what you mean, the front looks very generic.

 I would of thought that iBasso with its flair for "style" would at leased design it to fit in line with its other products....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I guess they can't all be LaRoccos & Emmelines. But let's face it, peeps, LISA ain't gonna be winning any beauty pageants neither! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So I'll just have to comfort myself with the prospect that the D1 will be function over form; with all those goodies packed under its bonnet, it kinda needs to be numbingly rectangular anyhow. Who knows, maybe the D1 & LISA will kick-start a new wave of "utilitarian chic"! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Gotta say that I'm surprised that no one's yet mentioned iBasso's GenuineLeather™ sleeve as one of the clinchers:






 Being a practicing Pagan, I find it difficult to support any product in good conscience that has not somehow benefited from the sacred cauldron of animal sacrifice.


----------



## tk3

That look quite reminds me of the Hornet, it's those jacks.
 It looks great to me though, and that pic shows off its good looks very well.
 The iBasso P1 amp I got was a great bang-for-the-buck kind of amp also, but the IC that came with it was rubbish.

 And yeah, that leather case is a beauty too.


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do AD823's generally sound?_

 

Bad->worse->AD823


----------



## splawren

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bad->worse->AD823
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Wow, why do you say that? What in particular is bad?


----------



## jamato8

I asked them about the case to the T1 at one time. As you can see by the design it is original and even in China was very expensive. To do something on that line for a larger unit like the D1 and for it to be solid and to warrant the cost a business has to be very well established or flush with cash. I like the look of the D1 but I was a radioman in the Navy and I prefer the looks of solid utilitarian products that are functional. Many of Rays products are great looking but they still have that bolted together looks, which I think comes from his background in working with the military and I like that. I would like to see an image of the body of the D1. I am not crazy about the animal skin. It is enough that little aluminumnites gave up their life for the case of our hearing satisfaction.


----------



## jpelg

As thorough as iBasso is about including all relevant cables & the leather outer case, I'd prefer them to be inexpensive, optional add-ons (I already have my own), with the amp/DAC itself hovering at or below $200.

 Just my .02


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As thorough as iBasso is about including all relevant cables & the leather outer case, I'd prefer them to be inexpensive, optional add-ons (I already have my own), with the amp/DAC itself hovering at or below $200.

 Just my .02_

 

Email them. You have a valid point since many people have connectors they want or they will buy after market connectors of higher quality but then not everyone is a Headfi guy/gal with a data base on what is needed to make everything work together. Maybe as a package that could be added at an additonal cost for the accessories. I normally just use the amp and have my own IC's and so on and so forth and forth so.


----------



## jamato8

I have read that the 823 is quite good but needs the highs tamed with the correct circuit. Since I have heard a few products of iBasso I am sure they would only go with something that will sound good because they really strive for this and from a few emails I got, they want each product to be better than the last and not just a new wrapping. The market of amps is too competitive not to improve as you move along the path to musical blissssss. Ah, musical . . . blissssssss. . . yeah . . . . blisssssss . . . I like that.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As thorough as iBasso is about including all relevant cables & the leather outer case, I'd prefer them to be inexpensive, optional add-ons (I already have my own), with the amp/DAC itself hovering at or below $200._

 

I understand what you're driving at, James, but I suspect that the tally of those extras likely adds on only about $5 to the cost out of the D1, it being China, after all.

 Bottom line: iBasso probably feel more confident in the broader, non-Head-Fi marketplace offering a complete plug-n-play package that's nicely presented in order to attract DAC neophytes like myself than they would be by shaving a couple of bucks off in order to please a few fussy sophisticates such as yourself.


----------



## jamato8

I agree, there are some of us that don't need no stinking extras but iBasso needs to appeal to a wider audience for such a nitch product and by providing the cables etc. a person that does not have access or knowledge on where to obtain all these connectors the stress is lessened and enjoyment enhanced. I have to quite coming around here, I just want to hear the thing. :^)


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have to quite coming around here, I just want to hear the thing. :^)_

 

Tell me about it...as if all the reading and posting's gonna make it show up any sooner!


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *splawren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, why do you say that? What in particular is bad?_

 

Coarse, harsh, sibilant, unclean and nasty lower treble/upper mid gives the impression of "great details" but the amp is really low-res, a bit boomy bass.

 But everything is of course a matter of taste. I know a lot of people fancy this opamp.

 I really want this amp/DAC to sound good. I most often listen to iRiver IHP120, and it would be great to be able to use optical out to a better DAC. I'm going to wait for some reviews, and I hope the reviewers does comment the aux in and not just digital in.


----------



## mrarroyo

I like that when a signal is fed via the USB/Coaxial/Optical you can get the line in to work as a line out and feed your home amp or any other kind of amp is you choose to do so. Great!


----------



## jpelg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I understand what you're driving at, James, but I suspect that the tally of those extras likely adds on only about $5 to the cost out of the D1, it being China, after all.

 Bottom line: iBasso probably feel more confident in the broader, non-Head-Fi marketplace offering a complete plug-n-play package that's nicely presented in order to attract DAC neophytes like myself than they would be by shaving a couple of bucks off in order to please a few fussy sophisticates such as yourself._

 

"Fussy"? "Sophisticate"? Me?

 I was thinking "cheapskate". Just tryin' ta save a few bucks.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"Fussy"? "Sophisticate"? Me?

 I was thinking "cheapskate". Just tryin' ta save a few bucks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

LOL!


----------



## jamato8

I was curious about opamp use in the D1 and just got an email that the D1 is socketed and meant for opamp rolling! So, there you go and make your choice.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was curious about opamp use in the D1 and just got an email that the D1 is socketed and meant for opamp rolling! So, there you go and make your choice._

 

John...
 You have convinced me! I also ordered a D1. The optical input should be a welcome addition for use with my iRiver H120. 

 So the opamp rolling begins all over again! 

 As if I don't have enough headphone amps already!


----------



## jamato8

Ron, I have a bunch of different opamps laying around like you but I actually don't want to get into too much rolling but the ability to do so and have a dac at the same time is unbelievable. I guess this all stems from the fact that when I as 7 I built a crystal radio and have always enjoyed this kind of stuff. In the Navy I was a radioman, whom they no longer have, and used tubes. It never left me and now this great stuff with all the options is just too much. Great fun!


----------



## LepakVT

hopefully it still sounds good though without having to do opamp rolling since I don't have any opamps and don't intend to get any anytime soon to roll.

 I'm kinda glad though that HiFlight has a MOVE already and ordered a D1 so there can [hopefully] be a comparison done between the two (pretty please! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


----------



## HiFlight

John..

 I know what you mean... I have spent countless hours rolling opamps in my Xin amps, trying to find the "perfect" configuration for my ears. 

 I have started a bit of tube-rolling on my Dared MP5, but opamps are MUCH cheaper than tubes! I am going to just limit myself to a couple choices of tubes. Best sound so far is with the Tung Sol 12AX7s. 

 Most of the others I have tried seem to exhibit more hum than I am used to hearing. I do have a set of RCA cryo-treated 5751s enroute. I have great expectations for these. 

 Didn't mean to hijack the thread...please excuse.


----------



## jamato8

My favorite 5751 is the Sylvania gold pin grey plate. The black plate can go noisy. The Tungsol is a good tube. There is another tube you could try, that is imo, better than the 12AX7, cost less and has incredable drive and dynamics. The 12BZ7. It has a life and jump factor that the 12AX7, even my beautiful Telefunken smooth plate, can't match.


----------



## HiFlight

John...
 Thanks for the info on the BZ7s. I will give them a try.


----------



## jamato8

I can't believe this, the front isn't silk screened it is laser printing! "laaaaser" I love it!


----------



## Dexdexter

Would somebody mind explaining the role of the buffers?

 Do different buffers display certain synergy with different op-amps?

 In other words, is it OK to swap op-amps while using the same buffers?

 Thanks!


----------



## Skylab

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_John...
 Thanks for the info on the BZ7s. I will give them a try._

 

Sorry for the off-topic post, but be aware the 12bz7 is NOT a drop-in replacement for the 12ax7. The 12bz7 is (according to people more knowledgeable than I) essentially two 12ax7's in one tube. It draws more heater current, apparently. So do be careful


----------



## jamato8

Yes that is true, it is a draw of .3A vs .15 for the 12AX7 but I would hope they have a transformer that can handle that. If not they didn't try very hard on the trans but check first. Well the amp uses two 12AX7's and the trans is not very large so I would question if it could handle the two 12BZ7's. If it could everything would be enhanced because of the overal improved performance of the 12BZ7 but not if the transformer winding for the heater burn out.


----------



## splawren

So has anyone gotten their happy hands on one of these yet? I'm very curious to see some reviews!


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Shipping to Denmark was $26_

 

Just seen that iBasso has added this to their D1 listing:

  Quote:


 PS: All D1 order will be shipped via Express shipping. (UPS/DHL/EMS) 
 

Should be very soon then, me hopes!


----------



## HiFlight

Still waiting on mine...I imagine that Jamato8 will be one of the first to receive the amp. There is no doubt in my mind that he will present a fair and unbiased evaluation of the D1. I am especially interested to see how it performs when using the optical input.


----------



## zer010gic

I read some reviews of the AD823 and it sounds like from its low output it would not be good with HD650 or K701 type cans. Would this be a correct assessment of this chip and thus correct for the D2.


 Corey


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I read some reviews of the AD823 and it sounds like from its low output it would not be good with HD650 or K701 type cans. Would this be a correct assessment of this chip and thus correct for the D2.


 Corey_

 

No, the AD823 is not driving the headphones, the buffers are supplying that. They lower the output impedence and provide the power. There should be no reason the headphones you mentioned will not work correctly.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would somebody mind explaining the role of the buffers?

 Do different buffers display certain synergy with different op-amps?

 In other words, is it OK to swap op-amps while using the same buffers?

 Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buffer_amplifier


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buffer_amplifier_

 

Cheers, Miguel, that takes care of my first question, anyone care to tackle the remaining two?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do different buffers display certain synergy with different op-amps?

 Is it OK to swap op-amps while using the same buffers?_

 

Thanks!


----------



## souperman

Is it easy to amp roll? Is it as easy as taking the original opamp off and placing another one in? I've never done it before.


----------



## jamato8

There is a socket. You pull out the opamp and replace it with one that is correct for the application. New opamps normally have the pins spread a little too wide so you can gently push them in on each side so that it fits into the socket. I am sure someone will post images but it is easy once you do it.


----------



## LepakVT

I've never done amp rolling either... are they expensive? and could you provide a link of somewhere where I could purchase them? thanks!


----------



## jamato8

The D1 uses a dual opamp, which is two opamps in one chip. There are a number the will work and I hope someone will chime in as I have many but can't remember them all and will have to dig them out. The 8620 is one as an example. You could also get a small adapter, if there is room and use single opamps on the adapter board and open up the use of many more opamps.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cheers, Miguel, that takes care of my first question, anyone care to tackle the remaining two?



 Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, you can swap opamps while keeping the same buffer. Some opamps do sound better with certain buffers...for example the OPA2134 sounds very good with the HA5002 buffer...they seem made for each other. Some opamps, such as the AD 8397 require no buffer, as it is incorporated into the chip architecture. Other opamps can be use with or without buffers. 

 My personal feeling is that if the opamp can output enough current to adequately drive your headphones to the desired level, adding buffers does not necessarily result in an improvement in sound quality.


----------



## souperman

Hey jamato will you care to do a comparison of all the opamps you have with the D1?


----------



## jamato8

I will work with what I have when I get it but there also needs to be a burn-in period to know what the D1 sounds like with the stock opamp. 

 I was also notified that a P2, smaller with a totally different topology from the P1, will be offered soon (the end of the month). It will also have the thick faceplate, which I like better than the thinner type and it will be machined and countersunk.


----------



## lmfboy01

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will work with what I have when I get it but there also needs to be a burn-in period to know what the D1 sounds like with the stock opamp. 

 I was also notified that a P2, smaller with a totally different topology from the P1, will be offered soon (the end of the month). It will also have the thick faceplate, which I like better than the thinner type and it will be machined and countersunk._

 


 hey i got an email saying the same too! i like my P1 but if the P2 is indeed smaller with a similar design, it should be a good buy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 i like that gloss finish look 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 jamato - will you be getting one?


----------



## jpelg

Ask, and ye shall receive. After taking jamato's advice to email iBasso, here was their first reply: Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iBasso* 
_Thank you for taking your time to write us your suggestion. 
 Your suggestion is great. Offering a simple package may attract more
 potential buyers. We will discuss your suggestion on todays meeting. I
 will email you later with our decision._

 

And then in my mailbox this morning: Quote:


 We will have a new page for D1, in this page, buyer can choose a D1
 simple package, without many accessories. However, we need some new
 pictures before the new page is added.
 If you want to order a D1 simple package now, please email me back. the
 price of this package is $209 plus shipping. It includes D1 and the AC
 adapter.

 Thank you for your suggestions. and if you have any questions about our
 products, please feel free to let me know. 
 

I don't think I've ever seen a company be so receptive!


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ask, and ye shall receive...I don't think I've ever seen a company be so receptive!_

 

20 buckeroos, James, not too shabby! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Well, I'll certainly never underestimate you again, Sir, you're my kind of cheapskate!


----------



## nc8000

Optical cable shipped ....
 Amp shipped ......

 They should both arrive at my home before I am back from travelling. Oh the agony.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Optical cable shipped ....
 Amp shipped ......

 They should both arrive at my home before I am back from travelling. Oh the agony._

 

I'm not going anywhere and I'm already jonesing...ughhh.


----------



## Krohn

This looks very interesting...I've kind of been looking for a decent all in one that I can use with all my equipment and possibly take with me. This just seems so....perfect!

 I'll wait for some reviews first, and then grab one soon after since I'm guessing it won't be awful, especially for a first amp


----------



## HiFlight

I have dozens of opamps from all of my Xin rolling.... It will be very interesting to make comparisions between the D1 and Xin to see if the same opamps sound the same in both amps! There is far more to sound quality than the choice of opamps, so I am expecting differences. 

 I will post the results when I have finished playing. Well, I should not say "finished", as I haven't finished rolling opamps since I got my first Xin rollable amps several years ago.


----------



## LepakVT

wow 209 for the simple package is very enticing. I already have a million of those USB cables lying around the house and a few opticals too.

 I wonder if it'll still come with that snazzy looking leather case.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wow 209 for the simple package is very enticing. I already have a million of those USB cables lying around the house and a few opticals too.

 I wonder if it'll still come with that snazzy looking leather case._

 

Oh yeah definitely. That should still be included...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## Lad27

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_John..

 I know what you mean... I have spent countless hours rolling opamps in my Xin amps, trying to find the "perfect" configuration for my ears. 

 I have started a bit of tube-rolling on my Dared MP5, but opamps are MUCH cheaper than tubes! I am going to just limit myself to a couple choices of tubes. Best sound so far is with the Tung Sol 12AX7s. 

 Most of the others I have tried seem to exhibit more hum than I am used to hearing. I do have a set of RCA cryo-treated 5751s enroute. I have great expectations for these. 

 Didn't mean to hijack the thread...please excuse._

 

Gotta try Raytheon 5751 man. Smooth as silk. Beautiful tube, there's a quad of them on eBay with few days to go. Sorry for another hijack.


----------



## luidge

I would be really interested in hearing a two way review of the D1 versus the Move if somebody got them one day! I will mark this thread up!


----------



## epithetless

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luidge* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would be really interested in hearing a two way review of the D1 versus the Move if somebody got them one day!_

 

x2


----------



## musblue4

I really want to try this amp...


----------



## Spoon Wrangler

I would really like to know how the DAC section compares to Headroom's Micro DAC, seeing as those are the only two standalone portable DACs available.


----------



## souperman

The mail really needs to hurry the amp to jamato! I can't wait for his impressions. My fingers are itching to buy the D1 or the MOVE lol.


----------



## cmirza

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The mail really needs to hurry the amp to jamato! I can't wait for his impressions. My fingers are itching to buy the D1 or the MOVE lol._

 

x2, though the D1 has some big shoes to fill against the Move's amp unit.


----------



## jamato8

I have a tracking number but it isn't working yet. There were two big storms that hit China and it appears the it may have slowed the currier survice that takes the package to UPS China.

 Edit: I just checked again and it has hit the export scan as of the morning in China, which is the 15th there and it is the 14th (at night) here in Eugene, Oregon. So, we shall see how long it takes to get here. I will be moving very soon so I hope it gets here before I move.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a tracking number but it isn't working yet. There were two big storms that hit China and it appears the it may have slowed the currier survice that takes the package to UPS China.

 Edit: I just checked again and it has hit the export scan as of the morning in China, which is the 15th there and it is the 14th (at night) here in Eugene, Oregon. So, we shall see how long it takes to get here. I will be moving very soon so I hope it gets here before I move._

 

Crossing fingers for you.


----------



## jamato8

I called UPS. They said, "well it is the 15th in China but the 14th here so it won't be sent until tomorrow". I asked him if he had heard of Back to the Future?? I said, " so it won't actually leave until tomorrow because it isn't the 15th here yet, right?" Ok, tough I know, but when the little plane goes west to east there will be a change back . . . well you know . . . maybe it will arrive here yesterday on Friday.


----------



## Dexdexter

I'm now guessing an ETA of Friday for mine also. Apparently, iBasso were without electrical power yesterday, due to the typhoons.


----------



## elnero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I called UPS. They said, "well it is the 15th in China but the 14th here so it won't be sent until tomorrow". I asked him if he had heard of Back to the Future?? I said, " so it won't actually leave until tomorrow because it isn't the 15th here yet, right?" Ok, tough I know, but when the little plane goes west to east there will be a change back . . . well you know . . . maybe it will arrive here yesterday on Friday._

 

lol That's classic!

 I'm looking forward to your impressions especially in regards to the DAC section which is what interests me most. As you know I've been looking at getting a Monica2 built but for around the same cost the D1 offers a lot more versatility so it will be interesting to see how they compare.


----------



## zer010gic

I know the D1 is going to be more versatile but does any one think its going to sound as good or better then the Move. Just based purely from an educated guess.


----------



## HiFlight

To sound better than the Move will be a tough act, I will be pleased if it sounds even comparable. If the Move had an optical input, I wouldn't even have ordered the iBasso.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know the D1 is going to be more versatile but does any one think its going to sound as good or better then the Move._

 

If the D1 sounds better than my Go-Vibe V5S at 24v, I will be thrilled. If it turns out that other folks prefer it to the Move, all the better, I suppose, since I haven't heard it yet.

 There is much to be said for the D1's versatility, however, as I will mainly relying upon its DAC output, which the Move simply doesn't have in any case.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *heretical* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I'd also feel good if I had one on order. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, I'll feel even better when it arrives.


----------



## GiR

This sounds almost too good to be true if it sounds good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was looking around at the possibility of getting an amp, although tbh it wouldn't benefit me much as my player doesn't have a line out. So i was then looking at my old Iriver h120 which could be used with this through the optical. It can also plug into my pc to get around my crappy onboard soundcard. And very competitivly priced considering it could potentially fill both roles. Can't wait to hear some more about it


----------



## jamato8

Well now that it is today the 15th and not the 14th and the 15th in China, the packgage is kindof on its ways. I see that it was scanned to depart China but the plane had mechanical problems, don't it figure? Well I hope there are movies on the flight over and a window seat would be nice.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well now that it is today the 15th and not the 14th and the 15th in China, the packgage is kindof on its ways. I see that it was scanned to depart China but the plane had mechanical problems, don't it figure? Well I hope there are movies on the flight over and a window seat would be nice._

 

Which carrier is handling yours? Mine's DHL.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To sound better than the Move will be a tough act, I will be pleased if it sounds even comparable. If the Move had an optical input, I wouldn't even have ordered the iBasso._

 

Hope you will make a good comparison between the two amp sections for us!


----------



## jamato8

""Which carrier is handling yours? Mine's DHL.""

 UPS. Do you have tracking that can tell you where yours is? I wonder why they used different carriers. Maybe its a race.


----------



## nc8000

Mine's with DHL and traking says it departed Hong Kong hub at 04:09 this morning danish time so about 14 hours ago.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have tracking that can tell you where yours is? I wonder why they used different carriers. Maybe its a race._

 

Not yet. I only requested the tracking number this morning (probably after iBasso closed), so I guess they'll reply with it early tomorrow.

 Who's gonna start the reviews thread or do we keep them all here?


----------



## jamato8

Maybe a reveiw thread devoted to listening impressions. The D1 does go to new territory because of all that it can do and even opamp roll. I would like it the size of my Xin Reference but that will be next time, maybe. :^) Actually for a dac and amp with batteries included with a built in charge unit and . . . The P2 also looks like it will be interesting as it is a new design with a small size and thick faceplates that are countersunk. 

 My D1 is still in HK, as far as I know. I wonder why they used different carriers?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My D1 is still in HK, as far as I know. I wonder why they used different carriers?_

 

All the better to spread the D1 love around!


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_All the better to spread the D1 love around! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I guess so. I called UPS and my is a "saver shipping" but is guaranteed to be here by tomorrow evening, Thursday. Woohu. . .. well I will see if it gets here by then.

 I am picking up one of these also for longer term listening and what appears to be a good source of 4000uA's of reserve with variable voltage out up to 19 volts.

http://www.tekkeon.com/site/products...-adapt3450.php

 It can be purchased on ebay for 114 and the same person can be the extra battery for 79 so the capacity would be doubled.


----------



## jinp6301

i wonder how this will compare to something like an entech number cruncher


----------



## jamato8

I don't know. I have the Monica II, which has some excellent reviews comparing it to dacs costing a few thousand and bettering them so I think that will be very stiff competition, which I don't expect the D1 to top but if it comes close, that will be excellent. I have also upgraded the power supply on Monica with some Blackgates, and to my surprise I got a boost in sound quality (I had a BG in there but not the uf's I have now and not in the Super E configuration with the extremely low ESR and inductance). Anyway, I look forward to the shoot out between the separates of the Xin Reference and the Monica II and the D1.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am picking up one of these also for longer term listening and what appears to be a good source of 4000uA's of reserve with variable voltage out up to 19 volts.

http://www.tekkeon.com/site/products...-adapt3450.php

 It can be purchased on ebay for 114 and the same person can be the extra battery for 79 so the capacity would be doubled._

 

Nice to know that's out there, but I doubt I'd be listening for better than 20 hours at a stretch.


----------



## jamato8

Good point. 20 hours is more than enough but with my travels that come into play, like my recent year and a half in China, have battery power and back-up for everything from the laptop to whatever else needs POWER, it is a nice option. I like gadgets anyway, and ones that are quality.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...have battery power and back-up for everything from the laptop to whatever else needs POWER, it is a nice option. I like gadgets anyway, and ones that are quality._

 

Indeed. Please let us know how it works out for you.


----------



## Krohn

If reviews say this is a decent amp, I may just make this my first amp. They versatility is awsome and oh so tempting!

 I don't think it's been covered so far...will the D1 work for IEM and high impedance cans, or is it meant for one or the other?


----------



## jamato8

Will have to see how quiet it is for IEM's but with output buffers it should have no problem with impedence. Coming off of your computer with the USB it should make for a nice setup. If you have a portable CD player with optical out then a mini to toslink optical line would give you a good option for listening to CD's. We shall see.


----------



## Krohn

The options is what draws me right now. I have several things that have optical outputs (PC, PS2, CD player). I like that I can use it as a soundcard on my laptop via USB if I choose. The Aux in becoming a line out is just awsome to 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They really did some practical thinking on this one. Very appealing. I can't wait for yours to arrive Jamato, I can't imagine how you feel


----------



## jamato8

Ok, I see that it is en route to Ontario, California from Alaska after crossing the Pacific from Hong Kong, after leaving China. From Ontario is will come by truck and is supposed to be here later tomorrow.


----------



## souperman

Can't wait!!!


----------



## nc8000

On the delivery truck in Denmark, should get to my home address later today.
 The optical cable has already arrived.
 Just a shame that I don't get to my home address for another 1½ weeks


----------



## Bootleg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed. Please let us know how it works out for you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

x2


----------



## J.D.N

I would also be very interested in reviews, especially with a small comparison to the iBasso T2. Being a newb i want to research a lot before i buy for the first time. Having the DAC there as well has huge bonuses especially if im working late at night in my student house, don't have to have my main system potentially annoying house mates.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On the delivery truck in Denmark, should get to my home address later today.
 The optical cable has already arrived.
 Just a shame that I don't get to my home address for another 1½ weeks_

 

And they have been delivered, sitting completely useless and lonesome at home for another 1½ weeks


----------



## jamato8

Go home! 

 Well mine is out for delivery. It sure arrived in a very short period of time, well at least to Eugen. 

 The T2 is a nice little amp, not as refined as the Xin Reference and the bass isn't as good but for a small and very convient amp, I think it is a big pleasant surprise. I will compare the D1 to it also.


----------



## Capunk

cmon guys! do some review and benchmark!
 I need to decide which amp should I get!
 Move or D1 ???


----------



## GiR

Hehehe, they haven't even recieved them yet. But I also can't wait to hear about them. If all is well I shall be ordering one, although, i checked out the website, get alot of problems, cant get to the checkout cos it keeps asking for a coupon code and no options to do anything else. Possibly something to do with firefox, but its n ot that important right now


----------



## LepakVT

yeah I can't get the ibasso checkout to work in FF but it works fine in IE


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Go home! _

 

Would love to but don't think my employer would consider it valid grounds


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The P2 also looks like it will be interesting as it is a new design with a small size and thick faceplates that are countersunk. _

 

Haven't seen any info on the P2 yet. Did iBasso characterize it as similar to the D1, but minus the DAC?


----------



## Chrispy

I'm really looking into a Dac/Amp combo, and this could be it. Or the Move. Or Fubar III. Or Maybe I should stop spending money.


----------



## jamato8

The info I got on the P2 is that it is totally different from the D1 and P1. It is a new design implementing some of the latest ideas on headphone amplfiers with attention to opamps, ps, grounding and capacitors. It is smaller than the P1 and has a thick countersunk faceplate.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The info I got on the P2 is that it is totally different from the D1 and P1. It is a new design implementing some of the latest ideas on headphone amplfiers with attention to opamps, ps, grounding and capacitors. It is smaller than the P1 and has a thick countersunk faceplate._

 

I was afraid you'd say something like this (although I hope it's also safe to say that the D1 will represent an advancement from the P1).

 Sheesh, this merry-go-round never stops!


----------



## jamato8

Well the circuit is different and optimized for what they want on the P2, from what I would assume. The D1 with opamps that can be changed (dual) should make for an itneresting listen also. I hopefully will be listening to it a little later today with the normal break-in caveat.


----------



## jamato8

Well the D1 has arrived. The leather is . . . interesting. It will have to burn-in before any impressions are valid. I am used to such small portables that it seems large but not in comparison to small home amps and it is a dac an amp in one case. I have no noticable hiss with earbuds (the great bamboo ones I picked up). The case finish is not as dull as I thought it would be, the matt finish like a Hornet or Xin case but it is a dull finish and not glossy. 

 Out of the box the sound is pretty good with the bass needed some taming but it has been running less than an hour and I would imagine . . . . well you know. . . . time is needed. . .

 Oh the packing was excellent. I can't imagine unless you ran over the box with a UPS truck that the D1 would be damaged in shipping. . . I hope no one from UPS reads this and gets an idea. .


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well the D1 has arrived._

 

Blast! I'm guessin' mine's still sittin' on the tarmac in GuangDong...can't seem to get my tracking number to work. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyhoo, congrats and enjoy the process! And do feel free to provide us with copious photographic documentation while she's burnin'-in!


----------



## souperman

Do you mind starting a completely new thread on your D1 impressions and also your opamp rolling impressions?


----------



## jamato8

Sure, if that is what people want. I will have to take some images. Maybe even open up the D1 and show its guts.

 Oh, there is plenty of gain with this unit. Plays more like a home unit.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, there is plenty of gain with this unit. Plays more like a home unit._

 

Yessssss! (Keep it comin'!)


----------



## cooperpwc

Monsieur Amato (note the obsequious showing of respect 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ), this is extremely exciting. Please, please, please post your impressions of this as a DAC only running the line out to the Reference. A rechargeable DAC that will take optical in from my H140... I'm dying to know how it performs.


----------



## jamato8

Thank you. :^) I normally just get "Hey U" around here. 

 I forgot about that and just plugged in the Reference to the D1 and it instantly picked up the Reference so I am listening to just the dac now of the D1. Not bad but again, needs time. . .


----------



## Matlock

This has really peaked my interest.
 Looking forward to your review of it jamato8.


----------



## jamato8

I just opened up the D1. All of the sockets for the audio are socketed! There are Sanyo caps in the digital section, the same that I use for my digital circuitry and a very populated board. This isn't any toy, this is a major piece of work. A buffer for each channel and two opamps, one for the audio and an 8616, which I have to figure out the use for but all socketed. There are two large round batteries and everything looks well laid out with good solder connections, no slop anywhere. Nicely done, I would say. I also see some other Japanese parts and some very good digital chips.


----------



## musicmind

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cooperpwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Monsieur Amato (note the obsequious showing of respect 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ), this is extremely exciting. Please, please, please post your impressions of this as a DAC only running the line out to the Reference. A rechargeable DAC that will take optical in from my H140... I'm dying to know how it performs._

 

Hi Jamato

 I would second this request, seeing as the DAC features are quite impressive on this little device, if you could comment about its use as a standalone DAC and its sound, it would be very valuable.
 The MOVE is a nice portable, but this D1 could provide more upgradability for those who could upgrade to a bigger amp and still use the D1 as a DAC. 

 Thanks in advace


----------



## jamato8

So are so many variables with the D1. I guess I hadn't thought about it but now I am running it with the Monica II plugged into the front, which it took about 1 or 2 seconds to pick up that there was an incoming signal in the AUX, and I am listening to just the amp section. Very neat how you can plug into the front, it scans and picks up the incoming signal, plug into the back with the optical and you have the dac and use all the dac and amp or use just the dac with whatever amp you want or use the coax in the back for digital or plug into the. . . . where was I ?


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well the D1 has arrived. ... I am used to such small portables that it seems large ..._

 

After reading this I went to their website and found the dimensions. It is a good size amp, larger than the SR-71 and the LaRocco. Both of these are what I would consider marginal portable via bag.

 I hope their next one is significantly smaller. Thanks.


----------



## ICU

What's that saying? 

 " A picture is worth a ........"


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After reading this I went to their website and found the dimensions. It is a good size amp, larger than the SR-71 and the LaRocco. Both of these are what I would consider marginal portable via bag.

 I hope their next one is significantly smaller. Thanks._

 

Yes, but remember it is both an amp And a dac.

 I went for a long bicycle ride. I could hear the amp opening up as time passed. Better more detailed highs and the overly warm mushy bass (normal in my experience on new stuff) tightened up and became more impactful. This was running it amp only. 

 The D2 already? :^)


----------



## Lad27

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cooperpwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ A rechargeable DAC that will take optical in from my H140... I'm dying to know how it performs._

 

x2. I'm dying too...


----------



## spunkmeyer

x3. Waiting with bated breath, and turning blue...


----------



## cmirza

Ah, the large size of the D1 counts me out. I guess all the fancy DAC components are going to take some space to fit in there. I'm still curious as to how it sounds though...


----------



## HiFlight

Great avatar, John!!!!


----------



## jamato8

Thanks Ron, I thought it was fitting for here and the car. :^)

 The D1 is starting to throw depth. I opened it up again to look around. I guess I will have to photograph it. There is a lot of stuff in there. So much work laying all of this out in the R&D. 

 No, the D1 isn't small by portable standards like the TH, Hornet, Xin Reference, Micro, T2 and many others but for me that is not an issue. I use a small soft case that holds some CD's, the Sony portable I use with optical out and then room for the Reference (or whatever amp) and the Monica II dac. This case can either go over my shoulder or in a small backpack, which what I use when walking or bicycling. I get great on the move sound but then I don't use an iPod and tiny amp stuffed in a pocket, which I realize some prefer. To me this amp and even the Lisa III would be portable but the Lisa III is, to me, getting to the outer limits of portable.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After reading this I went to their website and found the dimensions. It is a good size amp, larger than the SR-71 and the LaRocco. Both of these are what I would consider marginal portable via bag.

 I hope their next one is significantly smaller. Thanks._

 

To put the size in perspective, per iBassos specs, the D1 is 1/4" shorter, 1/2" wider, and 1 1/4" longer than the SR71.

 I am looking forward to trying it with bypassed AD797 opamps.


----------



## jamato8

The caps in the D1 aren't very large so I don't expect it to take as long to burn in as an amp like the Hornet or the Xin Reference. I am already hearing great attack and speed. The detail is also improving. 

 You would have to get the Brown Dog adapter with the pcb on top and on the underside to use the AD797. That should be interesting. I think I will just leave it stock. This will also give me the best idea of what other people would be hearing if they do not want to change opamps, which a number of people have expressed they have no desire to do but it is nice to have the option for the rollers.


----------



## J.D.N

Brilliant to hear it is looking hopeful. *Newb question* will these be manufactured for a while? Or is the product run usually quite short on these?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The D1 is starting to throw depth. I opened it up again to look around. I guess I will have to photograph it._

 

Understatement of the year!


----------



## vasu

Does anyone have any idea about how the D1 would pair with the AKG K701? I just got the K701, but haven't gotten an amp yet, so I'm shopping around for my 1st! Having something with a built in DAC, especially optical and not just USB, is pretty appealing. I've heard there are amps that can slightly warm up and add a bit of punch to the K701, but would a portable amp like the D1 be able to do this?


----------



## Dexdexter

C'mon, John, toss us a few more crumbs!


----------



## Capunk

Yeah, How's D1 performance?


----------



## jamato8

I don't even have 24 hours on it yet. There is a bit of a bass hump around 60 to 80 hz, which could easily change. The amp is fast and detailed. The dac section works fine and while it sounds different from the Monica II, it has a good quality to it. Time is needed. I will try and post some images. The build quality of the D1 is very good and the polished edges of the bevel for the countersinking adds a nice touch. 

 To restate, the amp is like so many new devices of this type, going through changes from being too warm and poor bass in the beginning to opeining up and providing a nice feeling of depth. Female voice is conveyed in a natural way but things are still in flux.


----------



## HiFlight

John...
 Does the D1 use DIP sockets for the opamps, or some other type of socket? The AD797 is an 8 pin DIP, so I would think it would plug in directly unless they are using only dual opamps. Not a big problem if they do use only duals, as I have a bunch of those I can play with. 

 Mine has been shipped, so it won't be long before the fun begins again!


----------



## jamato8

It uses dip for the opamps and buffers. Let the rolling begin. Oh, the opamp is a dual.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will try and post some images._

 

You're just a bit of an amp-tease, now, aren't ya John.


----------



## globiboulga

So what do you think of the amp? And the DAC? As they are from factory? What is your opinion on the value of both? Is the DAC any good (say compared to the Move if you know this one)?


----------



## ojnihs

snap i may have to get one of these. seems bang-for-the-buck. we need pics!!!


----------



## jamato8

I don't think anyone has compared it to the Move as the D1 is just out. I can say that the D1 goes through a number of changes. I have been running it for a little over twenty four hours. The bass is cleaning up now and becoming much better intigrated but many more hours are needed and there are both the dac and amp to burn in. The dac sounds very good with the Xin Reference and the internal amp is no slouch.


----------



## Filburt

By 5532 do you mean NE5532 for the buffers?


----------



## jamato8

Yes.


----------



## Dexdexter

Finally got a valid tracking number, mine just departed Hong Kong en route to Brussels. 

 Go, DHL, Go!


----------



## jamato8

Great! It should arrive very soon I would think. Once I got the tracking number it took 3 days or was it 2? 

 I know I have said it before but the changes this amp/dac goes through are substantial. The bass is really improving now, I feel it down into my shoulders but only 35 hours of run time so far. Last night the high were a little ragged (not clean and they were a little gritty) but today they are smoothing back out though a little cool and depth is improving.


----------



## souperman

How would you compare it to the amps you have?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know I have said it before but the changes this amp/dac goes through are substantial. The bass is really improving now, I feel it down into my shoulders but only 35 hours of run time so far. Last night the high were a little ragged (not clean and they were a little gritty) but today they are smoothing back out though a little cool and depth is improving._

 

Great to hear that the improvements are continuous and they're not done yet.

 Now, how 'bout them pictures?


----------



## jamato8

Here, I will do more later. I use and pay for Pbase but often when I link the image does not show up untill refreshed and sometimes not even then. I have complained over and over to Pbase but they are of little help, only making excuses. I don't know if this image is showing up or not but it is linked correctly. Ok, I switched to photobucket for this type of link. 






 D1 using the optical in from the Sony portable in the background. I am using the RP-21's right now.


----------



## Dexdexter

Not seeing anything yet. Try PhotoBucket, it's free and it works!


----------



## Dexdexter

OK, seein' it now, nice shot!


----------



## elnero

jamato8, you appear to be a contributing member, you should be able to upload them to your space in the Head-Fi gallery.


----------



## KenW

jamato8, if you have an ipod, I'd love to see a few shots(side by side, from the top and stacked) to get an idea of the size discrepancy between the two.


----------



## ojnihs

does this thing have enough power to properly run your HD650's jamato?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ojnihs* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_does this thing have enough power to properly run your HD650's jamato?_

 

Yes, it runs the HD650's just fine. I guess it depends on how loud you like it but louder than I would want to listen to music is how it does turned all the way up, with no distortion.


----------



## souperman

Can't wait for the full featured review


----------



## KenW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

Wow...good sized portable. Guess they needed the extra space for all the connectivity options. Despite the size.....very tempting for a new "team minimal" member like myself.


----------



## jamato8

I will get a shot of the internals up. There is a lot going on inside and some quality components.


----------



## ojnihs

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *KenW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow...good sized portable. Guess they needed the extra space for all the connectivity options. Despite the size.....very tempting for a new "team minimal" member like myself._

 

x2. i'm very tempted by this


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will get a shot of the internals up. There is a lot going on inside and some quality components._

 

Looking forward to seeing how the D1 opens-up for access...


----------



## KenW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looking forward to seeing how the D1 opens-up for access..._

 

That would be interesting. I'd also love to have the opportunity to A/B the iBasso and Move. I love everything about the Move....size, build.....if it only had either a coax or optical input it would be darned near perfect. Of course, the iBasso takes care of that but in a somewhat bigger package. Tough choice here.


----------



## lmfboy01

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it runs the HD650's just fine. I guess it depends on how loud you like it but louder than I would want to listen to music is how it does turned all the way up, with no distortion.





_

 

LOOKS HOT!
 cant wait to get mine! was supposed to come on friday but it was delayed a few days and now i wont get it till late Monday 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. but also on monday i should be receiving my Yuin Pk1 & a Corda Move! w00t! i know you peoples are dying to hear a comparison between the two and i may be able to help out. i just dont know where to begin, any suggestions?


----------



## KenW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lmfboy01* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i just dont know where to begin, any suggestions?_

 

Pics comparing the size would be a nice start. Toss in a common reference point....the ipod for example...and you're off to a roaring start. I'd then focus on a direct comparison of the two using the same cans, source, connector, and a very familiar piece of music to your ears. If you're feeling froggy, a pic of the internals of the two would be of great interest.


----------



## OverlordXenu

Shot of its back, please?


----------



## mrarroyo

It seems to be about the size of the Xenos X1HA-EPC. Of course this one has a DAC with three different input types.


----------



## KenW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Of course this one has a DAC with three different input types. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's what makes it so exciting......and hard to believe. If the sonics are there, a portable with so many connection options at this price point would be an unbeatably great value. Again, Skylab or another vet of the portable scene needs to get their hands on both the Move and this gem for a head to head comparison.


----------



## LepakVT

lookin good


----------



## jamato8

Some more images.


----------



## spunkmeyer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *KenW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's what makes it so exciting......and hard to believe. If the sonics are there, a portable with so many connection options at this price point would be an unbeatably great value. Again, Skylab or another vet of the portable scene needs to get their hands on both the Move and this gem for a head to head comparison._

 

Ditto that.


----------



## musicmind

Thanks for the pics jamato8


----------



## KenW

Thanks jamato8. Nice pics. Well, we've seen the unit in all its glory and now we've seen it naked. Guess all that's left is a thorough evaluation of how the dac and amp perform and how they stack up to the competition. Look forward to some detailed impressions.


----------



## Filburt

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes._

 

Really? Is this just to provide a line-out from the dac or for amplifying to the headphones? It looks like it could be the latter, but I'm not sure and may be missing something there.


----------



## jamato8

I am not sure I understand the question. The D1 is a dac and an amp that can run from the input to output as a dac/amp. The NE5532 is the output buffer from the amp section. The amp section be run by itself bypassing the dac using a different source or you can use the dac by its self bypassing the internal amplier or the dac with the amp and an all in one unit.


----------



## yuheng

no update for review?


----------



## jamato8

If I state something it could change because the amp is changing as the caps are forming, dialectic changes and so on. 

 At this point, with around 56 hours, the sound has smoothed out and the highs are getting better. The sound is becoming more organic and natural. The bass is very tight and a word I like to use when the quality of bass is good, it is tuneful, meaning the bass is not a blob of low frequency but distinct within its range of individual notes.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I state something it could change because the amp is changing as the caps are forming, dialectic changes and so on. 

 At this point, with around 56 hours, the sound has smoothed out and the highs are getting better. The sound is becoming more organic and natural. The bass is very tight and a word I like to use when the quality of bass is good, it is tuneful, meaning the bass is not a blob of low frequency but distinct within its range of individual notes._

 

Is the bass punchy though? I thoroughly enjoy a punchy bass.


----------



## jamato8

I will have to put on some Dire Straits or some Boston. I will look around but in general yes it is punchy but remember the caveat being 56 hours and more time is needed.


----------



## Dexdexter

Thanks for all the photos, John! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Looks like a very tidy job in there with all those goodies packed in. Hard to imagine it being smaller than it already is.

 Which screws need to be removed to gain access to the interior?

 Do the batteries appear to be user-replaceable?

 Can you comment on the overall feel of the volume pot?

 Hopefully, my D1 will arrive tomorrow (just tracked it as departing Amsterdam en route to Brussels), barring any kind of hold-up at customs.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lmfboy01* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LOOKS HOT!
 cant wait to get mine! was supposed to come on friday but it was delayed a few days and now i wont get it till late Monday 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. but also on monday i should be receiving my Yuin Pk1 & a Corda Move! w00t! i know you peoples are dying to hear a comparison between the two and i may be able to help out. i just dont know where to begin, any suggestions?_

 

If I get a D1 it will be to use with my iRiver H140. The comparison I would like to see would to compare using the source's straight headphone out with source's digital out>D1 DAC>D1 amp, preferably playing FLACs. That would tell me whether the D1 justifies its cost and an increase in box-count over souce alone. Can't this be done with an iPod? Later you could compare the D1 amp with the Move. By then I might have got one and I'll compare the D1 DAC with the Beresford DAC using several amps.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I get a D1 it will be to use with my iRiver H140. The comparison I would like to see would to compare using the source's straight headphone out with source's digital out>D1 DAC>D1 amp, preferably playing FLACs. That would tell me whether the D1 justifies its cost and an increase in box-count over souce alone. Can't this be done with an iPod?_

 

No digital out on the iPod, unfortunately. But I will definitely be putting the D1 through its paces as a DAC (feeding both my CanAmp & loudspeaker Hi-Fi) and a headphone amp, using both the optical and USB outputs of my MacBook (using Apple Lossless files).


----------



## Rav

Does the D1 come with any cables, or would they need to be souced seperately?

 I was seriously thinking of picking up the Mini Audio, but then saw this was available


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rav* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the D1 come with any cables, or would they need to be souced seperately?

 I was seriously thinking of picking up the Mini Audio, but then saw this was available 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

As it stands currently, the D1 comes with the following for $229:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iBasso website* 
_Comes with: genuine leather case, high quality optical cable, USB cable, coaxial cable, AC adapter (110V~240V)_

 

However, due to popular demand, iBasso is also expected to offer a simple package _without_ the cables for $209.


----------



## addz

^ excellent decision on ibassos' behalf. Lets hope they keep the AC adaptor though. Any idea on if they ship different adaptor plugs according to your location? i.e. UK/European/US/Aus etc.


----------



## souperman

Someone stated before that for $209 you get the D1 and the adapter.


----------



## Dexdexter

Yes, the adapter is included in either case. Not sure whether or not the plugs are different according to location, but the adapter works with any mains voltage.


----------



## Iced

It will be better if they can make the adapter optional and lower the price a little more.


----------



## canadaguy

I'm sure they could but I'm sure there's a little mark up, they gotta eat too


----------



## jamato8

With all that has gone into this dac/amp with better than average chips and R&D, I think in the larger view of things the price is very good. It is the most versatile amp I know of and it is still portable though I would put it in my shirt pocket. :^)


----------



## nc8000

It could also be a warranty thing like "If you blow up the thing and you used any other ac adapter than ours, then tough". This however is pure ungrounded speculation.


----------



## jamato8

I would much prefer a manufacture to include the ac adapter with their product so there is "no" question as to what to use. With the advent of universal adapters, with regards to ac voltage, it makes life much easier.


----------



## zer010gic

Any one know of another amp that shares a similar opamp and buffer design that could give some indication as to the sound this amp may produce.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any one know of another amp that shares a similar opamp and buffer design that could give some indication as to the sound this amp may produce._

 

[edited] I thought I heard it was an AD8397. I might be mistaken.


----------



## zer010gic

Basically I need to know if there is a chance this amp will sound as good as a Corda Move. I need a usb input but all the features of this amp would be nice but at the most part I want SQ. I know its early to tell but what would be an educated guess.

 Corey


----------



## Dexdexter

My D1's in the home stretch, just cleared customs in Brussels!


----------



## Capunk

Please give us clear impression out of box =) 
 (before burn in process)


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Basically I need to know if there is a chance this amp will sound as good as a Corda Move. I need a usb input but all the features of this amp would be nice but at the most part I want SQ. I know its early to tell but what would be an educated guess.

 Corey_

 

Not just you are waiting for that...


----------



## globiboulga

Man, Jamato is SUCH a tease...


----------



## jamato8

Others will soon have the D1 and they will state what they hear, if they choose. I only have 75 hours on the D1 and hear changes. I have no idea where it will end up in the sound spectrum. I have posted images and some impressions up to this point. 

 It is interesting to listen to the amp only while driving the D1 with my Monica II or using the dac only while using my Xin Reference.


----------



## musicmind

Thanks for your efforts so far jamato8.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmind* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your efforts so far jamato8._

 

I hope everyone can get some value from my interpretations of what I am hearing but it is just that, my interpretation. 

 I am listening to the remastered Queen, greatest hits. The bass is powerful but not overwhelming. On the second cut, Another One Bites the Dust, the bass is very punchy and the space of the recording venue is well represented. There is no congestion to the sound and the drive and dynamics is conveyed in a convincing manner. Not all of this remaster is that well recorded but some of the tracks come across with a lot of enjoyment.

 I am also hearing some of the unpleasant artifacts of some digital recordings. This is not the fault of the D1 but it is resolving some of the recording grunge. I can hear this on my Monica II but not in the same way.


----------



## DennyL

I just emailed iBasso asking about battery replacement. Here is their reply:-

You can purchase battery replacements from US if you can do the replace work, or you can send it back to us, we will only charge component cost and shipping cost.

 Usually, the battery has 500 time charge period. That means you can use the battery for 2~3 years.


----------



## Dexdexter

Thanks for that, Denny!

 And thanks also to John, for all you're efforts thus far!


----------



## Capunk

To jamato, 

 Did you constantly burn in your amp (continuously?), or you give it a break time?


----------



## yuheng

guys, do this DAC support ASIO?


----------



## Dexdexter

It's here! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Unboxing and size comparative photos following soonish...


----------



## lmfboy01

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's here! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Unboxing and size comparative photos following soonish..._

 

RIGHT ON!
 let the unpacking begin! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 hopefully i get mine later today as well... as long as UPS doesn't mess up.


----------



## nc8000

I just got mine. Nobody was at home last thursday when DHL tried to deliver so I got it rerouted to where I am working this week. My main intended use for it is as an optical dac with my Sony pcdp but the included optical cable does not fit the Sony (I knew this and have ordered an other cable that is sitting at home) so I can not test it as such. As a plain amp it does not give me the same kick right out of the box as my Xin Reference did when I first got that but that might be because I have now been spoiled by the Referene for some monhts. I have tried to plug it into my pc via usb and tha makes a BIG differene compared with just the pc's headphone out. All of this is just very brief and with my E4C's. Tonight when I get back to the hotel I will try it as an amp with the Sony and my K340's and see how that goes while AB'ing it with the Reference.

 Oh, and as for looks the amp is quite good looking but I deffinately do not like the leather sleeve but since that has a velcro lock it's easy to remove. I will put small silicone feet under it instead and use it in the nude black metal.

 Also I will only be able to test it for as long as the charge in the batteries last as I don't have a US to EURO plug converter for the ac adapter with me.


----------



## ghezbora

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, and as for looks the amp is quite good looking but I deffinately do not like the leather sleeve but since that has a velcro lock it's easy to remove. I will put small silicone feet under it instead and use it in the nude black metal._

 

I've been curious about the leather as well. Could you post pics of it nude? Or could someone?


----------



## zer010gic

I think there are some on page 14


----------



## J.D.N

Brilliant to hear it is looking hopeful. *Newb question* will these be manufactured for a while? Or is the product run usually quite short on these?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J.D.N* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Brilliant to hear it is looking hopeful. *Newb question* will these be manufactured for a while? Or is the product run usually quite short on these?_

 

I assume it will be made for a while but who knows. It seems the the amp world is moving very fast. I would imagine like other products, it also depends upon how well it sells. 

 I put some nice flat silicone feet on my D1 and they work great.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J.D.N* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Brilliant to hear it is looking hopeful. *Newb question* will these be manufactured for a while? Or is the product run usually quite short on these?_

 

Don't know but I think that this is going to be a standard product in general production for a good long time


----------



## J.D.N

Cheers, im really thinking this will be my first purchase, as it covers so many of the things i need, and seems a goo place to start. However as another thread highlights, living in the UK means high import tax. Hurumph.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J.D.N* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cheers, im really thinking this will be my first purchase, as it covers so many of the things i need, and seems a goo place to start. However as another thread highlights, living in the UK means high import tax. Hurumph._

 

On the paperwork accompanying mine they wrote "Sample of no commercial value" and "Sample of adaptor" and declared it at $20 (I didn't ask for this, it just happened). It went straight thru without any customs interference.


----------



## jamato8

Yes, that is what I had. I hope it continues to work. I think taxing items of small value and interferring with our hobby has to stop! :^)

 Ok, nearing a hundred hours and Dire Straits is sounding pretty good. There are still some areas that need to smooth out in the upper mid and lower high frequency but at not quite 100 hours good so far. I have been listening to the amp and dac, amp, dac, to get impressions what what all the combinations sound like. 

 I can't get it to work with my Mac usb out. Anybody know of issues with the USB on Mac PowerBook G4's and devices like this?


----------



## elnero

Any thoughts on how the DAC compares to the Monica2 yet?


----------



## ken36

After all that time you deserve the reward. Cheers.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elnero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any thoughts on how the DAC compares to the Monica2 yet?_

 

The D1 dac has gone through changes from being too bass heavy, imo, to a more uniform sound but still a little too much bass with my RP-21's but fine with my 650's and bamboo earbuds. It also sounds fine with the Portapros. The upper mids and lower high frequency needs some improvement as cymbols, the sound is a little white and less brass. The dac needs more time as even my Monica II needed a few hundred hours. The Monica II is smooth, great bass response and very open and dynamic. I use Blackgate caps throughout the Monica and she likes it.








 For those who like bass the D1 does this.


----------



## Skylab

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_






 For those who like bass the D1 does this. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Hmmmm...sounds like my cup if tea!


----------



## jamato8

I should mention that the combo is very quiet. I have turned the volume to max and hear very little (with no music :^) ).


----------



## Filburt

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Same AD8397 opamp, different design:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Headphone-Amplif...QQcmdZViewItem_

 

Where is the AD8397 on the iBasso? Jamato says it uses NE5532, and I don't see anything that looks like an AD8397 on the board at the moment; maybe I'm overlooking it?


----------



## Dexdexter

Unboxing shots:


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Filburt* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where is the AD8397 on the iBasso? Jamato says it uses NE5532, and I don't see anything that looks like an AD8397 on the board at the moment; maybe I'm overlooking it?_

 

There is no 8397 in this amp. It has a AD823 as the dual opamp and the buffers are the NE5532.


----------



## GreatDane

Thanks for all of the info & pics so far guys. I don't really even need this amp and I want one...funny how that happens a lot with me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It seems to be a very good value...everything needed is included.

 Did someone say bass


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Filburt* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where is the AD8397 on the iBasso? Jamato says it uses NE5532, and I don't see anything that looks like an AD8397 on the board at the moment; maybe I'm overlooking it?_

 

I corrected my comment. I musta heard wrong. Sorry


----------



## LepakVT

oooh i like my bass. and I do want a pair of DT990 '05. I wonder how that combo will sound in the bass department.


----------



## jamato8

I was out "mobile" today with the PortaPros and the D1 controlled the bass very well. I got nice imaging and the sound was to the sides and in front of me.


----------



## HiFlight

Happy day today!! I received my D1 via UPS this morning! I just now got a chance to fire it up and spend a bit of time listening to the USB DAC as well as the optical input from my iRiver. 

 Initial impressions are very favorable. Quality of construction appears first rate. Sound is very nice for the initial listen. I concur with John that the upper mids and lower highs seemed a bit bright, especially with the optical input, but it didn't take very long at all to tone down to a more natural level. Tonal balance and soundstage seem quite nice at this point. 

 I cannot tell a great deal of difference, if any, between the DAC performance of the D1 and Move. Both sound good. It may take some critical listening with a variety of music to really differentiate between the two. Interestingly, the iBasso uses the same 12vdc input plug as does my Move, so the regulated power supply that I have for the Move is doing double-duty. The AC adapter supplied with the iBasso is a nice unit, but I measured the output voltage to be 12.17 vdc. The recommended voltage for the Move should be limited to 12.0 vdc, so I will use Jameco adapter for both, even though the 12.17 would surely be acceptable for the Move as well. It just saves me having to deal with one more adapter. 

 I did try feeding the optical out thru the aux in/out of the D1 into my Reference and the results are superb. I think the Reference is going to be very difficult to surpass as far as soundstaging and overall sense of realism. 

 I keep reminding myself that all of these components except the Move have only a few hours of powered life so far! 

 Although the D1 cannot really be called a pocket amp, it certainly falls within the realm of portability. The flexibility of all the input/output options place it firmly in a niche that no other piece of equipment in this price range can begin to match. 

 The sound as fed thru the optical input really leaves little to be desired as far as any reasonable expectation of quality audio. I can forsee really using this a lot. Makes me really glad that I held on to my H120. With the options that Rockbox provides, as well as a means of utilizing the optical output, I am set for many hours of enjoyable listening. 

 Well done, iBasso!


----------



## jamato8

Ron, are you using the D1 with a pc on usb out or a Mac? I can't get mine to work with my Mac and wonder what I may be doing wrong but it should be a plug and play with no drivers needed for chip used. 

 I have been carrying the D1 everywhere with me and don't find any difference in size when compared to my Reference and Monica II dac with a Sony portable using the optical out. I am enjoying the D1 quite a bit and love all the options. I concur about the Xin Reference but the amp in the D1 is no slouch.


----------



## Dexdexter

Time for a few more!


----------



## jpelg

Congrats, all!

 Nice pics too. Can't wait to hear your sonic impressions (after burn-in, of course).


----------



## spunkmeyer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_are you using the D1 with a pc on usb out or a Mac? I can't get mine to work with my Mac and wonder what I may be doing wrong but it should be a plug and play with no drivers needed for chip used._

 

When you connect a USB out to the Mac, you must go into system preferences: sound and select output. The DAC should be listed, and you've got to select that. Make sure your phones aren't plugged into the Mac.


----------



## jamato8

Great! It works fine and sound extremely good! Thanks! USB from my Mac using the D1 DAC!


----------



## NunoSilva

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ron, are you using the D1 with a pc on usb out or a Mac? I can't get mine to work with my Mac and wonder what I may be doing wrong but it should be a plug and play with no drivers needed for chip used. _

 

Hello!

 Sorry to barge in, but anybody as tested it with any recent Linux distro? I think it's standard usb-audio, but if it doesn't work with MACs there's a change it won't work with Linux too, and my portable player runs Linux 

 Thanks in advance,
 Nuno


----------



## musicmind

DexDexter, great pics...and a very nice looking amp...

 Hiflight, thanks for your impressions so far of the USB DAC and the comparison with the MOVE. I hope you will continue to compare its sound to the MOVE in your review after burn-in.

 Many thanks.


----------



## yuheng

i was really tempted wif that now...how poison this forum this...


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NunoSilva* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello!

 Sorry to barge in, but anybody as tested it with any recent Linux distro? I think it's standard usb-audio, but if it doesn't work with MACs there's a change it won't work with Linux too, and my portable player runs Linux 

 Thanks in advance,
 Nuno_

 

I have it working fine now with my Mac. 

 ""When you connect a USB out to the Mac, you must go into system preferences: sound and select output. The DAC should be listed, and you've got to select that. Make sure your phones aren't plugged into the Mac.""


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I broke down and bought a used Tomahawk AND an new iBasso D1 today...


----------



## HiFlight

I had to fiddle around with my PC to get D1 working...I still had a USB going to my Dared, and apparently the PC couldn't decide what codec to use. 

 Once I had only one USB attached, the switching worked just fine. It took one reboot to eliminate the errors caused by my having multiple cables plugged in at once. 

 I agree with John that the amp section of the D1 is quite good, certainly complementary to the its DAC capabilities. 

 I think overall, the sound signature is quite similar to that of the Move, although at this early stage, the bass impact is a bit less.


----------



## jamato8

Great! Should be a fun combination. Join the party.


----------



## JadeEast

Hey Jamato

 Can you goto audio midi set up in aplications folder and checkout the properties for the dac? can you change the format?

 Thanks!


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JadeEast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Jamato

 Can you goto audio midi set up in aplications folder and checkout the properties for the dac? can you change the format?


 Thanks!_

 

Yes, but change it to what?

 Wait, maybe you can't. I have ever worked with that before. I can change output but it is not in MIDI. I go to MIDI but I don't see format to change.

 Oh, yes you can. :^)


----------



## Spoon Wrangler

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NunoSilva* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello!

 Sorry to barge in, but anybody as tested it with any recent Linux distro? I think it's standard usb-audio, but if it doesn't work with MACs there's a change it won't work with Linux too, and my portable player runs Linux 

 Thanks in advance,
 Nuno_

 

What portable player do you have that runs Linux???


----------



## jinp6301

did you guys try opamp rolling yet?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jinp6301* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_did you guys try opamp rolling yet?_

 

LOL, I am still waiting for my D1 to settle so I at least know what sound signature the stock unit has. I am sure someone will dive into that in short order. I am still trying out all the features it has. As you can see, I just learned how to use it with my Mac. I have been using it with my Xin Reference with some great sound but I also enjoy the internal amp. 

 So a list needs to be made on what opamps to try. Calling Ron. . .


----------



## NunoSilva

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Spoon Wrangler* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What portable player do you have that runs Linux???_

 

Actually I have *many* (sharp zaurus, nokia n770, fic neo1973). the zaurus has the best sound, after some fine-tunning, but I havent tested the neo1973 as a player yet... I use one of my 3 zaurus (C1000) as mini-laptop/music player, and since it has a USB-host port I've been thinking about a nice powered DAC. That's the reason of my interest 

 If someone has Linux and could do a simple test for me, I would be great:
 Plug the D1 in and type: lsusb -v | less
 Then search for the entry about the D1 (should say something like USB Generic Audio), and scroll down to find the MaxPower value. (to leave the "less" pager press q)

 Here is the entry for a Creative Labs usb card:
  Code:


```
[left]Bus 005 Device 004: ID 041e:3020 Creative Technology, Ltd SoundBlaster Audigy 2 NX Device Descriptor: bLength 18 bDescriptorType 1 bcdUSB 2.00 ... [removed 11 lines] ... Configuration Descriptor: ... [removed 6 lines] ... bmAttributes 0xc0 Self Powered MaxPower 2mA[/left]
```

...And report back that value 
 If MaxPower is lower than 200mA (it should be, because it's not USB powered) it will work with the zaurus.

 Thanks,
 Nuno


----------



## jamato8

Ok, well a little over a hundred hours now and the D1 is starting to rock. The sound has really changed in the highs and bass. The bass has tightened up and gotten out of the way of the mids for the most part. The highs are quite clean with a more natural grain free presentation. I notice that the depth of the soundfield has increased as have dynamics. The width is still not as wide as I have heard but everything seems to be falling in place to a very high level. 

 Its starting to get exciting now!


----------



## nc8000

And here are some more pictures. Quality is not good as I only have my cell phone camera

 "Pictures removed as they were too big and buggered everything up but I don't have editing tools with me at the moment"

 Compared with my >600 hours Reference it can not hold itself but that could change after some burn-in. As a straight line amp it does not have gain enough to drive my K340's, even at max on the volume dial it is too quiet. I mailed iBasso about this and got the reply that they can't go over the 6 gain it is build with because the dac part outputs 1.5V so this might be resolved once I get hold of my optical cable to connect the Sony that way instead of line-in.


----------



## souperman

Awaiting more of your comparisons between the two (MOVE and D1).


----------



## Dexdexter

Some nekkid profile shots and size comparison to my Go-Vibe V5S:
































 At only 15 hours of burn-in, it's still kinda early to say, but power-wise it is already on par with the Go-Vibe (with 24v external power supply) in its ability to drive my 40 Ohm Ultrasone PROlines.


----------



## zer010gic

I would not mind to know how it stacks against the Hornet M as well.


----------



## globiboulga

It is time for Skylab to enter the merry-go-round and stack this amp against his memory...

 Although, I have to say it's going to have a hard time taking on my Move, which is continuously improving...


----------



## bonkon

This looks really interesting, keep the reviews coming. 

 If portability is not an issue, what would be the better DAC+amp for me between the D1, move, FubarIII or any other in the $200 range? To be used mainly with my laptop and HD600. The optical in the D1 is really a plus for use with a pcdp.


----------



## Chrispy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bonkon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This looks really interesting, keep the reviews coming. 

 If portability is not an issue, what would be the better DAC+amp for me between the D1, move, FubarIII or any other in the $200 range? To be used mainly with my laptop and HD600. The optical in the D1 is really a plus for use with a pcdp._

 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=254408

 A couple more suggestions.


----------



## HiFlight

Regarding the lack of volume in the D1: I cannot imagine needing more volume, even with my AKG701s there is more volume than I can tolerate. Normal live listening levels result in about a 12-1:00 position on the volume knob. 

 Perhaps the volume of the source is much too low?????? For optimum performance, the source volume should be near max.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bonkon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This looks really interesting, keep the reviews coming. 

 If portability is not an issue, what would be the better DAC+amp for me between the D1, move, FubarIII or any other in the $200 range? To be used mainly with my laptop and HD600. The optical in the D1 is really a plus for use with a pcdp._

 

Based on my evaluations of the Move vs the iBasso so far, if I could only have one amp, I would pick the iBasso because of the flexibility of the inputs. Having the optical input as well as the USB is a really useful feature. I don't know of another amp that combines all of the features incorporated into the D1 at anywhere near that price point! 

 Quality of construction and audio performance leave little to be desired, IMHO.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Regarding the lack of volume in the D1: I cannot imagine needing more volume, even with my AKG701s there is more volume than I can tolerate. Normal live listening levels result in about a 12-1:00 position on the volume knob. 

 Perhaps the volume of the source is much too low?????? For optimum performance, the source volume should be near max._

 

The source is a Sony pcdp with line-out so no volume adjustment possible. On my Reference I have the volume at about 2'oclock with the K340's and that is about right for me (others who have tried it maxed it out and could have used more). With the D1 I can't achieve this volume even when maxed out. This however is not the way I intend to use it, rather I will be using it optical out and according to iBasso going thru the dac will give me much more volume. Anyway I will not even be using the amp part, I only bought it as a dac to feed the Reference (unless the amp part when fully burnt-in can outperform the Reference or get very close).


----------



## HiFlight

For those using the Westone UM2, Shures, or other very sensitive IEMs, I find that the iBasso D1 has only a barely perceptible hiss at full volume with muted input. It is only apparent at max volume and totally silent at lesser settings. 

 That was something I was initally concerned with, as my tube amp has a low hum at all volume settings with this type of phone. I was pleased to discover that this is not the case with the D1, Move, or Reference.


----------



## Krohn

Thanks everyone for the impressions! They seem to be pouring in now that the D1 is in people's hands. I'm glad to hear its sounding good now. This may be the solution I have been looking for, but have been unable to find until this was released 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sadly, I may have to wait a little longer to get this. I planned on getting some HD580's, but they're becomming harder and harder to find. I may end up getting the 580's first, then saving for the amp. Decisions decisions! With that said, just to be safe, the D1 will drive the 580 with no problems?


----------



## vasu

HiFlight, can I get some thoughts on how well the D1 synergizes with your K701. You said volume was more than enough, which is reassuring. Any other impressions? Does it add any bass or warmth, or do anything else?


----------



## jamato8

Maybe someone could downsize their images. It makes it hard to read this. :^)


----------



## visia

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Based on my evaluations of the Move vs the iBasso so far, if I could only have one amp, I would pick the iBasso because of the flexibility of the inputs. Having the optical input as well as the USB is a really useful feature. I don't know of another amp that combines all of the features incorporated into the D1 at anywhere near that price point! 

 Quality of construction and audio performance leave little to be desired, IMHO._

 

If neither optical input nor size was very important, would you go with Move or D1 used as USB-DAC+Amp?


----------



## jamato8

Ok, I have the D1 working with my Mac via usb but the volume control in the Mac can control the volume of the sound. Shouldn't he USB bypass the internal volume control? It would seem the Mac amp would be in the chain unless the volume is control via digital before the internal Mac amp. \

 Any ideas?


----------



## Mansize_tissue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I have the D1 working with my Mac via usb but the volume control in the Mac can control the volume of the sound. Shouldn't he USB bypass the internal volume control? It would seem the Mac amp would be in the chain unless the volume is control via digital before the internal Mac amp. \

 Any ideas?_

 

When i use my Corda Move with my laptop via USB (not a Mac, but still), i can still adjust the volume using Windows Volume controls. That's a very interesting thought, though. I hadn't thought of it until now, but it would make sense if the DAC is connected via USB, and not to the sound card, it would bypass the internal volume control. I guess theory doesn't always work in practice, huh.


----------



## vasu

Volume Control is still enabled in the USB-Audio protocal. There are several usb-audio only computer speakers (like the Harman/Kardon Soundsticks) that have no volume knob on them since the computer can still control volume, even if it's digital out over usb.


----------



## bonkon

For windows user you have to bypass the windows kmixer, using kernel streaming or asio4all. I use foobar to do so but you can also use winamp with the right plugins. Here is a great tutorial.


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I have the D1 working with my Mac via usb but the volume control in the Mac can control the volume of the sound. Shouldn't he USB bypass the internal volume control? It would seem the Mac amp would be in the chain unless the volume is control via digital before the internal Mac amp. \

 Any ideas?_

 

Gain in the Mac is controlled in the digital domain. iTunes volume as well as system volume should be set at maximum to achieve the highest S/N ratio through the amp's DAC.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe someone could downsize their images. It makes it hard to read this. :^)_

 

Fair enough, my problem is that I am travelling and only had my HTC TyTN phone to take pictures with and upload them with no access to my normal tools. I have now removed them from the post so it don't bugger everything up. Others have posted better quality pictures anyway


----------



## lmfboy01

just a few thoughts on the Move vs. D1, i found myself listening to the D1 quite a bit more. With my newly purchased Yuin Pk1's, at this point it seems to give me that the D1 is better, a little better bass and separation(soundstage). The D1 is approxiametly 1 1/2-1 3/4 in. longer and 1/2 - 2/3 in. wider thus making it harder for portability. Unfortunatly it does not fit in the Headroom Gigabag. Through USB, both are a 500%+ upgrade to my stock laptop soundcard. and this was said before and i found strange was the Move's ability to adjust thje volume through windows... anyways i was pretty tired yesterday while listening but those were my initial impressions. I did fall asleep listening to the D1 with my Darth Denon's last night. I must say the sound was quite amazing. anyways, Today I'll listen to the Move more and ill adjust it to high gain due to the impedance of the Pk1's. at this point i'd give the D1 a 9/10 and the Move a 8.5/10.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gain in the Mac is controlled in the digital domain. iTunes volume as well as system volume should be set at maximum to achieve the highest S/N ratio through the amp's DAC._

 

Ah, that is what I was wondering. If in the digital domain that is not as bad. Thanks. I still find it exciting that there are so many options with the D1, more like a with list than someithing that normally comes true.


----------



## LepakVT

HiFlight, if only using the USB DAC for the Move or D1 which one would you choose? If I get either one, I'd only be using USB out from my laptop. Could you do a quick comparison of the two? Thanks


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lmfboy01* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Today I'll listen to the Move more and ill adjust it to high gain due to the impedance of the Pk1's._

 

Low gain on the MOVE will likely still provide you sufficient volume with the PK1's.


----------



## zer010gic

Anyone try the D1 with a set of HD650s yet?


----------



## lmfboy01

USB at home, i'd prolly go with the D1, but i need to switch over my Move to High Gain first in order to make a better first impression. Even on low gain it does sound great! I'll check it out again later tonight as im late for work! anyone know off hand how to change the Move to High Gain? thx!


----------



## lmfboy01

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Low gain on the MOVE will likely still provide you sufficient volume with the PK1's._

 

you know what it is.... it kinda seems the output jack on my Move is a bit scratchy. I'm gonna check on this as the day goes along...


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone try the D1 with a set of HD650s yet?_

 

Yes, and it works fine throwing a nice soundstage with very good bass and extension.


----------



## zer010gic

I also take it there are no problems driving the HD650 to great volume levels.


----------



## jamato8

That depends upon you. I can max it out but it is also related to the signal in both in the recorded volume/gain and your source. I can max it out and it is as loud as I would want to listen but I know some listen even louder. I want my hearing to last so while I can get ringing at times b ecause I was to agressive on the volume some seem to keep it there and live with the ringing (in my ears), I don't want to.


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lmfboy01* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_USB at home, i'd prolly go with the D1, but i need to switch over my Move to High Gain first in order to make a better first impression. Even on low gain it does sound great! I'll check it out again later tonight as im late for work! anyone know off hand how to change the Move to High Gain? thx!_

 

There is a diagram on the pc board.


----------



## bonkon

For iTunes user here is the guide to bypass kmixer. I was able to use asio4all but not kernel streaming with my Super pro USB DAC. 

 Did you guys hear a difference using the D1 DAC with optical in and USB? Using my DAC which uses the same chips as D1, receiving :CS-8416, d/a: CS-4398 I hear almost a different sound signature using the USB and optical in with sony pcdp. The USB has a more pleasent analogue/vinyl sound without being overly warm compared to the optical in. While the optical is bit thinner and more resolving in the highs and can be too much with the wrong equipments. I could never explain why?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bonkon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For iTunes user here is the guide to bypass kmixer. I was able to use asio4all but not kernel streaming with my Super pro USB DAC. 

 Did you guys hear a difference using the D1 DAC with optical in and USB? Using my DAC which uses the same chips as D1, receiving :CS-8416, d/a: CS-4398 I hear almost a different sound signature using the USB and optical in with sony pcdp. The USB has a more pleasent analogue/vinyl sound without being overly warm compared to the optical in. While the optical is bit thinner and more resolving in the highs and can be too much with the wrong equipments. I could never explain why?_

 

Interesting, I hear just the oposite. :^) They do sound totally different to me from my PowerBook G4 and the optical in from my Sony portable. I don't know which I prefer but they are very different.


----------



## bonkon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting, I hear just the oposite. :^) They do sound totally different to me from my PowerBook G4 and the optical in from my Sony portable. I don't know which I prefer but they are very different._

 

Weird isn't it? I expected to hear more differences between using a pcdp and cd player as a transport but no the differences were more subtle with the same sound signature. Where as using USB gives you a different sound signature eventhough the digital data passes the same chip. I can't say one sound is worse than the other but I have a tendency to prefer the USB which has a better synergy with my HD600.


----------



## jamato8

I find the USB a little brighter and sharper sounding, which might work well with the 600 and 650. Just an thought though. Odd.


----------



## J.D.N

Jamato, have you got an optical out on your powerbook? I have a MBP and am wondering which input (optical or USB) will be better. Looks like im going to buy a D1 ... just have to wait till mid September for some money. First head amp looking good!


----------



## jamato8

No optical on my G4, would have been nice though.


----------



## bonkon

Well, I would love to hear your opinion between the D1 DAC and Monica 2 as I was planning to get the Monica 2 usb. I always wanted to get a nos dac, I have read they sound smoother without giving up too much detail that is something I am looking for.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone try the D1 with a set of HD650s yet?_

 


 Yes, I have tried the D1 with my HD650/equinox combo. Absolutely first-rate sound. They sound better than my AKG701s.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HiFlight, if only using the USB DAC for the Move or D1 which one would you choose? If I get either one, I'd only be using USB out from my laptop. Could you do a quick comparison of the two? Thanks_

 

If I was absolutely sure that I would never want or need the optical and coaxial inputs, I would probably choose the Move: 

 1. Smaller and more portable.
 2. Excellent sound with either input.
 3. Long battery life.
 4. Replaceable battery.
 5. Ability to use 3 different power sources.
 6. User adjustable gain and current settings.


----------



## visia

This goes back to the basic question on whether there is a significant difference in SQ between Move and D1 when used exactly the same way (through USB and Amp section). All other differences aside, is there substantial difference in SQ quality to prefer one over another? Also, is there significant difference in sound signature between them?


----------



## antonyfirst

Looks like the D1 falls short against the best portable amps around.


----------



## jamato8

What is the best portable amp? I don't think there really is "one". I think the Xin Reference is one of the best as in world class but it is also up to one's own discretion as to what is best, though general consensus does help. I don't think anyone has heard a fully broken in D1, I know I haven't but what I hear is very promising. One thing I do find exciting is all the choices of amps that keep getting better and better.


----------



## HiFlight

So far, I haven't noticed enough sonic differences between the Move and the D1 for that to be the deciding factor. As John stated, much depends on personal preferences. 

 I personally think they both sound great.


----------



## lmfboy01

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I was absolutely sure that I would never want or need the optical and coaxial inputs, I would probably choose the Move: 

 1. Smaller and more portable.
 2. Excellent sound with either input.
 3. Long battery life.
 4. Replaceable battery.
 5. Ability to use 3 different power sources.
 6. User adjustable gain and current settings._

 

HiFlight, some very good honest input their. I agree with you and I hope you dont mind me using your same principles in giving some positives of the D1. I see a lot of similarites..
 1 - still portable by using a bigger case w/beltclip but will probably be best with a backpack/shoulder pack
 2 - Equally excellent sound and multiple inputs coaxial/optical/line-out/usb. can be used with an iRiver iHP-140 going iRiver/optical/D1-dac/D1-amp/headphones.(i have not tested this as of yet, i need an adaptor cable 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)
 3 - Long battery life (Lithium Ion 2A 8.4v) good for your average 300-500 charges
 4 - User Replaceable battery with purchase of one through iBasso and a little DIY work.
 5 - comes with a charger with the amp. (this one may or may not work with the Move)
 6 - op-amp rolling. (I'm pretty sure of this hearing Jamato has opened this baby up!) this will give the user the ability to choose the appropriate sound's they want. 
 7 - very well built / chassis is one of the best I've personally seen.


----------



## Capunk

Sorry for newb question, 
 I found Move is receiving 16bit signal, while D1 capable to receive 24bit signal,
 does that mean, D1 able to upscale to 24 bit through USB?


----------



## Dexdexter

Took my D1 out for walkies today, and although it was safely ensconced in my backpack, it seemed to appreciate its very first opportunity to stretch its little op-amps and be on the move (pun intended)! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sourced by my iPod and feeding my Ultrasone PROline 650s, the iBasso with 26 hours under its belt made for already enjoyable listening, out and about, and is clearly beginning to open up a bit.

 And, speaking about belts, I've gotta say that, while the included velcro'd leather sleeve may not be the very last word in _haute couture_, it certainly _is_ functional, providing a nice smooth cushion in between the metal casing of the D1 and my iPod, as they nestle side by side in my bag's special media pocket. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Then again, the D1 seems to be entirely about utility above everything else; it may not win any awards for aesthetic design, but its solidity and quality of construction appear, IME, to be beyond reproach. 

 For starters, the power button demonstrates no signs of excessive looseness or otherwise undesirable play, exhibiting just the right amount of resistance when pressed to provide the assurance of genuine quality. Fully engaged, the button rests very nearly flush against the front panel of the D1, with just a hair's-width protruding outward to facilitate disengagement.

 Personally, I find the recessed 3.5mm mini-jacks to be both attractive and functional (if they're good enough for RSA, they're good enough for me!). The spacing of them on the front panel layout seems just right and they have an authoritative feel when plugging and unplugging peripherals.

 Finally, the volume knob, which appears kinda plastic-y in photos, is actually metal (aluminum?) as far as I can tell. More impressively, it displays a decidedly silky smooth travel when adjusting the volume, but, again, it shows no indications of looseness or play that would allow it to move (_that_ word again!) within the confines of a bag or otherwise in the everyday demands of portability.

 In my mind's eye, I can compare the tactile delight of the iBasso's volume pot with my limited time spent with various Porta Cordas (though, to be fair, not the M*ve) at meets whose knobs tended to have a feel more akin to twisting the cap off a 2-liter bottle than precision instrumentation (he wrote, sensing the impending lapping of flames 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).

 But if, as they say, the devil lies in the details, even at this early stage of the burn-in, I already feel happy to be numbered among The Village Of The D1 Damned!


----------



## jamato8

Interesting. I went down by the river here in Eugene and had with me the D1, portable Sony CD player, PortaPros, HD650's and some time. The sound was very good and reminded me more of a well excecuted design than some of the portables and home units I have heard. The quality of the sound was first rate with good bass impact and silent backgrounds. There is something to the sound that is well defined and no nonsense. I don't find some of the compromises that are often heard as in too soft a bass because after all, "this is a portable". The amp is fast and clean and throws a nice detailed soundstage. To be honest, as long as the sound holds up or even gets better, I am surprised a little and happy that the D1 is as good as it is.


----------



## zer010gic

Well I took the plunge and ordered one.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I took the plunge and ordered one._

 

I may be doing that very, very soon. This looks so much more promising than the MOVE, especially with the ability to opamproll


----------



## bpfiguer

There are many people interested in a portable DAC/AMP with USB, optical and coaxial inputs (15,446 thread viewers since 08-05-2007). There is a market for a device like the iBasso D1, which was not fulfilled by other manufacturers, despite the request for several years from several Head-Fiers. I'm an owner of a HR Overture/Coda (first version of the HR Microstack), AOS Piccolo DAC, the iRiver H1X0 DAP, and always I was waiting for a transportable DAC/AMP (only one device) powered by ion-lithium batteries which I can connect to the optical output of the H1X0/PCDP/portable DVD player and to the digital USB of the computer. I'm very interested in knowing more about the iBasso D1. I will appreciate if somebody can do the comparison iBasso D1 vs HR Microstack (sound signatures). I'm interested to know if there is hiss and/or good synergy with the Shure E500 IEM. How long last the battery using the iBasso D1 as DAC+AMP?
 Thank you to all the contributors of this thread.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bpfiguer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are many people interested in a portable DAC/AMP with USB, optical and coaxial inputs (15,446 thread viewers since 08-05-2007). There is a market for a device like the iBasso D1, which was not fulfilled by other manufacturers, despite the request for several years from several Head-Fiers. I'm an owner of a HR Overture/Coda (first version of the HR Microstack), AOS Piccolo DAC, the iRiver H1X0 DAP, and always I was waiting for a transportable DAC/AMP (only one device) powered by ion-lithium batteries which I can connect to the optical output of the H1X0/PCDP/portable DVD player and to the digital USB of the computer. I'm very interested in knowing more about the iBasso D1. I will appreciate if somebody can do the comparison iBasso D1 vs HR Microstack (sound signatures). I'm interested to know if there is hiss and/or good synergy with the Shure E500 IEM. How long last the battery using the iBasso D1 as DAC+AMP?
 Thank you to all the contributors of this thread._

 

I can answer one question. 
 1. The amp/dac combo will run 20 hours per charge. 
 2. can't answer about the Shure but my UM2's have no hiss, this is a very quiet combo. 

 This is close as I can come to answering part of your question.


----------



## lmfboy01

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bpfiguer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are many people interested in a portable DAC/AMP with USB, optical and coaxial inputs (15,446 thread viewers since 08-05-2007). There is a market for a device like the iBasso D1, which was not fulfilled by other manufacturers, despite the request for several years from several Head-Fiers. I'm an owner of a HR Overture/Coda (first version of the HR Microstack), AOS Piccolo DAC, the iRiver H1X0 DAP, and always I was waiting for a transportable DAC/AMP (only one device) powered by ion-lithium batteries which I can connect to the optical output of the H1X0/PCDP/portable DVD player and to the digital USB of the computer. I'm very interested in knowing more about the iBasso D1. I will appreciate if somebody can do the comparison iBasso D1 vs HR Microstack (sound signatures). *I'm interested to know if there is hiss and/or good synergy with the Shure E500 IEM.* How long last the battery using the iBasso D1 as DAC+AMP?
 Thank you to all the contributors of this thread._

 

No hiss with my brief listening last night w/E500's. Its been a very tiring week for me so i don't remember the exact sound at the moment but I can say at that time, it did not sound bad at all. Ill edit this and/or post again with further impressions when i get home..


----------



## Capunk

just an update, according to their web.
 It's temporarily out of order... does this mean Out of stock?


----------



## jamato8

Don't take it personally, maybe they don't . . . you know . . .like you. :^)

 I think it most likely means they are going to make more. . . I hope.


----------



## J.D.N

They better make more! An interesting point Dexdexter made was about the recessed 3.5mm jacks. As i have seen online the UE super fi 5 pro's have a right angle type jack, i am a little concerned the pin won't reach into the socket enough. Can someone possibly check this for me?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J.D.N* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They better make more! An interesting point Dexdexter made was about the recessed 3.5mm jacks. As i have seen online the UE super fi 5 pro's have a right angle type jack, i am a little concerned the pin won't reach into the socket enough. Can someone possibly check this for me?_

 

I just plugged in my KSC75s, which have a right-angle plug, and there is no problem whatsoever making the complete connection. Sounds lovely, too!


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just plugged in my KSC75s, which have a right-angle plug, and there is no problem whatsoever making the complete connection. Sounds lovely, too! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

But the plug of the Superfi looks like this:




 Its right-angle is pretty much right after the connector itself,
 whereas the plug of the KSC75 is straight after the plug itself:




 Judging from the pictures the Superfi might still fit, because of the little round piece after the plug.

 But a problem _might_ be the plugs of Westone IEMs (bottom left):





 Someone used them with the D1 already?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_just an update, according to their web.
 It's temporarily out of order... does this mean Out of stock?_

 

Here's the complete text now viewable on the iBasso site:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iBasso website* 
_D1 is temporarily out of stock. It will be available again on this weekend. If you place your order now, we will consider it as you make reserve for the D1. Sorry for the inconvenience. _

 

I think it's impressive that iBasso are so diligent in updating their website like this. While they could just as easily have left it as it was and continued to accept orders as they had been, they also would have had to spend more resources answering customer inquiries once the inevitable shipping delays became apparent. And, certainly, no one likes to feel stringed-along and iBasso appear to understand this.

 By being so forthcoming in this manner, potential customers understand not only when the next batch of D1s is expected, but also that they can reserve theirs by placing an order. To me, this says a lot about their efficiency as a company and inspires even further confidence.

 OTOH, I'm not terribly surprised, either. My experience with iBasso's e-mail correspondence has been excellent. They have always been quick, clear, and responsive (no mean feat for non-native English speakers)...a genuine cut above many vendors I've dealt with over the years, both foreign and domestic (well, when I was living in the States).


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rhymesgalore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But the plug of the Superfi looks like this..._

 

Hmmm, sorry, I don't have anything like those on-hand. But I don't believe that the jack-recess is any deeper than those found on the RSA amps. Guess we'll have to wait and see.


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, sorry, I don't have anything like those on-hand. But I don't believe that the jack-recess is any deeper than those found on the RSA amps. Guess we'll have to wait and see. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The recess is definitely deeper when comparing Hornet and D1:








 What also might be a problem is the fact, that the hole on the D1 is quite narrow. It might not only be a problem for headphone plugs, but especially for big input plugs like the Canare plugs on the iMod cables:




 (That's obviously not an iMod cable 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, but Canare plugs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )

 Perhaps iBasso can answer this, if they tested it with different plugs?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rhymesgalore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...What also might be a problem is the fact, that the hole on the D1 is quite narrow. It might not only be a problem for headphone plugs, but especially for big input plugs like the Canare plugs on the iMod cables...

 Perhaps iBasso can answer this, if they tested it with different plugs?_

 

I have a Canare plug on one of my mini-to-mini ICs and it fits, no problem.

 Perhaps you can e-mail iBasso and tell us what they say.


----------



## Nike T

Can anyone compare the Fubar III to the IBasso D1?


----------



## rhymesgalore

I already contacted them about the SuperFi/Westone Plugs. I'll post here as soon as i receive an answer.


----------



## J.D.N

Cheers rhymesgalore, that is most excellent of you. 

 Another question that popped in to my head, was the quality of the optical cable they provide? Is is decent? Or would you recommend getting a different? Like an IXOS or something?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J.D.N* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another question that popped in to my head, was the quality of the optical cable they provide? Is is decent? Or would you recommend getting a different? Like an IXOS or something?_

 

It appears to be of decent enough quality, and a good deal thicker than my Oehlbach optical cable:






 The branding reads either "CHOSEAL" or "CHOSEFIL" (difficult to tell exactly which, due to the lettering font employed).

 But I'm certainly no expert as to what constitutes a quality optical cable, and I've yet to conduct any kind of comparison. Also, it would be nice if iBasso could throw in a mini-optical adapter like Oehlbach did, for use with PCDPs, laptops, etc. I've already contacted iBasso to suggest this...


----------



## Skylab

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nike T* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone compare the Fubar III to the IBasso D1?_

 

This would be a very interesting comparison indeed.


----------



## Dexdexter

Just passed the 44-hour mark on the burn-in (amplifier only) when the blue LED on the front panel began blinking insistently (though the D1 continued to perform), indicating that it must be time to hook back up for a recharge.


----------



## visia

This thread must be generating quite a spike of interest in D1...I pulled the trigger yesterday as few other people probably did and, tough luck, its out of stock. A noob question regarding burning it in. Do you guys keep it hooked up to the headphones during burn-in or just keep it running by itself? I assume the former, but just want to make sure.


----------



## LepakVT

you'll want to keep some headphones plugged in. it's a good opportunity to put those apple ibuds to some good use


----------



## nv88

Visia, did you get an email confirmation after you ordered? I ordered last night about 11:00 EST. I got a confirmation from Pay Pal, but I was sort of expecting an email from iBasso too... 

 The out of stock message was not on the site at that time.


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nv88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Visia, did you get an email confirmation after you ordered? I ordered last night about 11:00 EST. I got a confirmation from Pay Pal, but I was sort of expecting an email from iBasso too... 

 The out of stock message was not on the site at that time._

 

So it looks like I was not the only one. I ordered mine around 8:00PM EST and only got a paypal confirmation.


 Corey


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I ordered 5:58pm mtn time on monday, and it still looked in stock then. All I got was a paypal receipt, so I emailed this am asking for a shipping status. I'll let you know what they say.


----------



## visia

Same here. Ordered at 11 pm yesterday, when the web site said its in stock. Got PayPal confirmation, but nothing from iBasso yet. I'll email them as well to check the status.


----------



## vasu

I placed an order monday morning at 9am (CST) and since receiving the paypal confirmation email a moment later, i haven't heard a peep about my order

 -vasu


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The branding reads either "CHOSEAL" or "CHOSEFIL" (difficult to tell exactly which, due to the lettering font employed)._

 

CHOSEAL is the same brand of cable that Meier ships with the MOVE.


----------



## jamato8

For additonal optical cables:

 This is the company I use for extremely good optical cables. You can order them with toslink to mini, mini to mini, toslink to toslink and whatever end to end length you want. The fittings are aluminum and the work is excellent. They will also use heat shrink if you request to make a very scecure bond of the optical cable to the connector. It is a good bond to begin with but I wanted/needed something even stronger for my mobile use and they figured out a method of angling the optical out of the connector to give more a a curve. They also have a neat adapter so you can go right angle with the optical. 

 The company is in Canada and they normally ship within a day of the order being placed. 

http://www.sysconcept.ca/product_inf...roducts_id=254


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_CHOSEAL is the same brand of cable that Meier ships with the MOVE._

 

That's interesting to know.

 Here's a link to the only optical cable shown on the CHOSEAL website:

CHOSEAL Optic Fiber Digital Cable Toslink-Toslink







 Not entirely the same as the one shipping from iBasso (again, no mini-adapter there), but here are the specs:

  Quote:


 Item No.: M-605MA
 Specification: 
 Brand: choseal
 Descripition: Overall diameter: 10.0mm x 1.0m
 Core material: polymethyl methacrylate
 Core diameter: 1,000 micrometers
 Clad material: fluorinated polymer
 Jacket material: flame retardant, passes UL VW-1
 Refractive index: step index
 Typical attenuation: 0.14 to 0.2dB/m, 650nm
 Bandwidth: 40MHz, 100nm
 Numeral aperture: 0.51


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nike T* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone compare the Fubar III to the IBasso D1?_

 

If the D1 is on par with the MOVE, then the Fubar III falls short. The Fubar II DAC (which is what the III uses), is not the best DAC. The D1 trashes the Fubar II in every way. The Cute Beyond is also a very boring amp in my opinion (which is what the Fubar III uses). It's cold and analytical and brings no life to my music. Just my own thoughts about the Fubar III.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vasu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I placed an order monday morning at 9am (CST) and since receiving the paypal confirmation email a moment later, i haven't heard a peep about my order

 -vasu_

 

Are they supposed to e-mail you if you don't ask any questions...?


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are they supposed to e-mail you if you don't ask any questions...?_

 

yeah, its a screwy order system. I sent them an email to make sure the order went through. They confirmed it did and a week or so later they sent an email saying it shipped. One week later it was on my doorstep.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For additonal optical cables:

 This is the company I use for extremely good optical cables. You can order them with toslink to mini, mini to mini, toslink to toslink and whatever end to end length you want. The fittings are aluminum and the work is excellent. They will also use heat shrink if you request to make a very scecure bond of the optical cable to the connector. It is a good bond to begin with but I wanted/needed something even stronger for my mobile use and they figured out a method of angling the optical out of the connector to give more a a curve. They also have a neat adapter so you can go right angle with the optical. 

 The company is in Canada and they normally ship within a day of the order being placed. 

http://www.sysconcept.ca/product_inf...roducts_id=254_

 

John, are you using a Toslink-to-mini with your PCDPs? 

 Seems that only the Toslkink-Toslink accepts the right-angled mini adapter. It would be nice if someone did a Toslink-to-right angled mini, or even a right angled Toslink to right angled mini so that the adapter would not be necessary.


----------



## Blueiz

Are you guys ordering by sending an email or using their website.... on their website, if I click on checkout all I get is a semi-blank screen...


----------



## visia

Their web site. There was someboy saying that checkout does not work in Firefox, but works fine in IE.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_John, are you using a Toslink-to-mini with your PCDPs? 

 Seems that only the Toslkink-Toslink accepts the right-angled mini adapter. It would be nice if someone did a Toslink-to-right angled mini, or even a right angled Toslink to right angled mini so that the adapter would not be necessary._

 

The company I refer to has adapters that are right angle mini to toslink and toslink to toslink. 

 I am using a mini to toslink. I have a few different lengths of these as I always like to be prepared. I used to use them with my Sony 303 portable so I was lucky to have them on hand as most of what I have is mini to mini.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I could not do the checkout on my Mac with Safari browser, firefox, opera or internet explorer. I had to fire up the old PC and order that way with IE7, and the darned PC wanted to do 2 months worth of OS and AntiVirus updates first


----------



## nv88

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Blueiz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you guys ordering by sending an email or using their website.... on their website, if I click on checkout all I get is a semi-blank screen... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The text on the order pages is almost the same color as the background. Try selecting the text around the blanks by clicking and dragging your mouse and you should be able to read it. The first page is just one blank for a discount/coupon code.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Jamato,

 Not to go OT but in your sig line you mention

  Quote:


 Source: Favorite portable desk use: D303 optical out, D-EJ955, D-EJ1000, D-EJ2000, 25s, 25, D-303, D-777 and others (using optical out if available) 
 

Where does one go about finding a PORTABLE CD or MP3 with optical out?

 I have an AKAI DVD/MP3 portable with coax-out, but it is big and bulky with a 7" flip up screen and 3" battery life.

 If you want to link me to something and not discuss it here, feel free!

 PS: I just checked and my sony D-SJ303 sports walkman cd doesn't have optical, been doing searches...


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The company I refer to has adapters that are right angle mini to toslink and toslink to toslink. 

 I am using a mini to toslink. I have a few different lengths of these as I always like to be prepared. I used to use them with my Sony 303 portable so I was lucky to have them on hand as most of what I have is mini to mini._

 

Thanks, John.

 I've since found this article which seems to be a nice primer for a rudimentary understanding of what comprises a quality optical cable.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Jamato,

 Not to go OT but in your sig line you mention



 Where does one go about finding a PORTABLE CD or MP3 with optical out?

 I have an AKAI DVD/MP3 portable with coax-out, but it is big and bulky with a 7" flip up screen and 3" battery life.

 If you want to link me to something and not discuss it here, feel free!

 PS: I just checked and my sony D-SJ303 sports walkman cd doesn't have optical, been doing searches..._

 


 Go eBay. A lot of the higher end Sony players over the years have optical out. I have the D-EJ1000, D-EJ2000, D-EJ925 (I think) and the one in my signature. All have been bought second hand on eBay or here on head.fi for $30-40


----------



## Sieg9198

The D1's DAC seems better than the one in the MOVE. How does it compare to a MicroDAC??


----------



## jamato8

I remember when toslink was junk and you could hear the difference but now, thank the audio god, toslink is a good method for transferring a signal. It is not very expensive and works great.


----------



## tracyrick

Can someone compare the DAC in this amp/DAC to the DAC in the iRiver H120/H140? So, if you bypass the DAC in the H120/H140, what level of improvement in SQ are you making?


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tracyrick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone compare the DAC in this amp/DAC to the DAC in the iRiver H120/H140? So, if you bypass the DAC in the H120/H140, what level of improvement in SQ are you making?_

 

I would be very interested to know the answer to that question.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here is the link for the optical connectors. Mark it well because I once lost it and it isn't easy to find *but they make excellent optical connectors that are better than glass* and look great. You also have a choice of many different colors in the connectors, which is cool. 

http://www.sysconcept.ca/product_inf...roducts_id=254

 When ordered you put the length you require in the comments box as you can't order it but in lengths shown *but you can put the request in the comments box and also that you want it* heat shrunk and *angled*, if that is what you want. Also measure from connector to connector not just the length of optical cable or it might be too long or short. I have about 4 different lengths and I have mini to mini and mini to toslink._

 

John, can you explain in what ways the SysConcept toslink is better than glass? Are they single-core like the Blue Jeans optical cable, as opposed to bundled multi-strands like the glass cables?

 Also, what you mean about getting the cable *angled*? Do you mean angled such that you don't need the right-angle adapter?

 I'm getting really tempted to place an order...

 Thanks!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tracyrick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone compare the DAC in this amp/DAC to the DAC in the iRiver H120/H140? So, if you bypass the DAC in the H120/H140, what level of improvement in SQ are you making?_

 

The DAC in the H120/140 is not something that you can use in the same manner as the DAC in the Move or D1. It simply converts the digital data to analog in a similar manner to all the other MP3 devices. Perhaps you are referring to the optical output?? If so, that performs very well. I have been feeding the optical output of my H120 to the optical input of the D1, then from the aux output of the D1 to my Reference. The sound is outstanding. I think the optical outputs of those devices so equipped probably are more accurate than most human ears. The D1 can decode an optical input and pass it out to another device as an analog output, whereas the iRiver is incapable of that particular function. 

 I find the optical output of the iRiver to sound better than the analog output, although that is also of high quality, probably better than any of the other MP3 players that I have owned. To appreciate the sound from an optical output, all the downstream components have to be of a comparable quality, otherwise it is a waste of a good source.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rhymesgalore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I already contacted them about the SuperFi/Westone Plugs. I'll post here as soon as i receive an answer._

 

My Westone UM2 right-angle mini plug fits perfectly in my iBasso D1. 

 So does my my Ety ER4P right-angle plug.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_John, can you explain in what ways the SysConcept toslink is better than glass? Are they single-core like the Blue Jeans optical cable, as opposed to bundled multi-strands like the glass cables?

 Also, what you mean about getting the cable *angled*? Do you mean angled such that you don't need the right-angle adapter?

 I'm getting really tempted to place an order...

 Thanks!_

 

They are single core, withstand flexing better than glass and the do not have the same problem with refraction. 

 It is not a 90 degree angle, they can't do that you have to get the 90 degree adapter but what they do is angle it as far as they can to one side rather than having it come straight out. I use mine when mobile in an arc and this give me a nice smooth arc to my portable dac and the shrink wrap they do with an epoxy makes the connector end very durable. They are great people to deal with, a real pleasure.


----------



## Dexdexter

Thanks very much, I'll place my order then!


----------



## visia

Got the reply from iBasso:
 "Thank you for your order, your order number is ...
 We arranged your order on tomorrow. A tracking number would be sent after the D1 is shipped. You will receive the D1 within next week. 
 Enjoy the D1 and your vacation.
 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio"
 That's after I asked them when the amp will arrive, since I am leaving on vacation the week after next. What can I say, their quality of service is amazing


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *visia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got the reply from iBasso:
 "Thank you for your order, your order number is ...
 We arranged your order on tomorrow. A tracking number would be sent after the D1 is shipped. You will receive the D1 within next week. 
 Enjoy the D1 and your vacation.
 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio"
 That's after I asked them when the amp will arrive, since I am leaving on vacation the week after next. What can I say, their quality of service is amazing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

This is what they sent me after I wrote to them this AM. I also gave them jamato's real name as my referral, maybe they'll pay people referrals if they sell enough 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 "Hello, Larry,
 Thank you for your order firstly. 
 We arranged your shipment on later today. We will provided a tracking number tomorrow.
 Sorry for the later shipment.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio"

 NOT A FORM LETTER!! The wording in mine is different. Bravo!


----------



## vasu

"Hello, Vasu Tummala,
 Thank you for your order. Your D1 will be shipped later today. Also a tracking number will be provided tomorrow.
 Sorry for the later shipment.
 Please feel free to ask me questions

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio"

 Woooo!


----------



## cooperpwc

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The DAC in the H120/140 is not something that you can use in the same manner as the DAC in the Move or D1. It simply converts the digital data to analog in a similar manner to all the other MP3 devices. Perhaps you are referring to the optical output?? If so, that performs very well. I have been feeding the optical output of my H120 to the optical input of the D1, then from the aux output of the D1 to my Reference. The sound is outstanding. I think the optical outputs of those devices so equipped probably are more accurate than most human ears. The D1 can decode an optical input and pass it out to another device as an analog output, whereas the iRiver is incapable of that particular function. 

 I find the optical output of the iRiver to sound better than the analog output, although that is also of high quality, probably better than any of the other MP3 players that I have owned. To appreciate the sound from an optical output, all the downstream components have to be of a comparable quality, otherwise it is a waste of a good source._

 

HiFlight, the detailed answer is appreciated but I think that you misunderstood the question. I too am interested in your feedback...

 Let me set up a scenario to explain it: One can take the analog lineout from the H140 and feed that into an amplifier (therefore using the H140's internal DAC chip for digital to analog conversion), OR one can take the optical out from the H140 and feed it to the iBasso optical in and thereby use the iBasso's DAC chip for the digital to analog conversion, then feedg the iBassos's line out to that same amplifier. In both cases, the H140 is providing the digital transport but a different DAC chip is used - either the one in the H140 or the one in the iBasso. The question is: which DAC chip provides the better sound, i.e. the better analog line out.

 Another way to do the comparison would be to feed the H140 optical out to the iBasso optical in and use the iBasso's integrated DAC/AMP capability - and then compare that to feeding the H140 analog line out to the iBasso amp's analog line in. Again the amp used for the comparison will be the same - in this case the iBasso's amp section. The goal again is to compare the H140's internal DAC with the iBasso's DAC. Which sounds better?

 Thanks!


----------



## Lad27

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cooperpwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Another way to do the comparison would be to feed the H140 optical out to the iBasso optical in and use the iBasso's integrated DAC/AMP capability - and then compare that to feeding the H140 analog line out to the iBasso amp's analog line in. Again the amp used for the comparison will be the same - in this case the iBasso's amp section. The goal again is to compare the H140's internal DAC with the iBasso's DAC. Which sounds better?

 Thanks!_

 

Please. I'm joining the queue as well.


----------



## trickywombat

iBasso must be swamped with orders. Early on, they replied to email rather quickly. I placed my order on August 20, and quickly got an email from them:

_Thank you for your order, your payment has been received.
 We will send your D1 out tomorrow, a tracking number will be provided.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio_


 Didn't hear from them again, so I sent them another email on August 22, and received this reply the same day:

_Your order will be shipped later today. A tracking number will be provided tomorrow.
 Thakn you for your purchase.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio
_

 So I guess, they are a little behind, but are still trying their best to reply and ship on time. Will let you guys know when I get the amp.


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Westone UM2 right-angle mini plug fits perfectly in my iBasso D1. 

 So does my my Ety ER4P right-angle plug._

 

That's cool. Because iBasso didn't know it themselves. 
 That's the answer i received:
_"We dont have the westone UM2s on hand, we cant anwser your question. However, I think it is no problem to use most of the headphones with D1. If you cant use UM2s with D1, I recommend you to have a small extended cable."_


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks very much, I'll place my order then! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Do that. I ordered one. Placed the order during the night canadian time, got order confirmation when they started work in the morning and got shipping confirmation about 5 hours later. It arrived 4 days later. I have not seen it yet as I am still travelling


----------



## yuheng

can the D1 power by AC power and bypass the battery?
 the idea of it is jz i m wan to use it for long time per day as i plan to make this as soundcard, but i dont wan to shorten my battery life

 or can it power by USB power?


----------



## J.D.N

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can the D1 power by AC power and bypass the battery?
 the idea of it is jz i m wan to use it for long time per day as i plan to make this as soundcard, but i dont wan to shorten my battery life

 or can it power by USB power?_

 


 I would also be interested in knowing this, as the D1 will most probably spend a lot of time connected to my laptop over the next couple of months. 


 And another little request, some people said earlier that iBasso wrote stuff on the packaging to kinda of fool customs, could people who are having theirs delivered in the next week or so let me know if this is a consistent occurrence.

 Cheers


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can the D1 power by AC power and bypass the battery?
 the idea of it is jz i m wan to use it for long time per day as i plan to make this as soundcard, but i dont wan to shorten my battery life

 or can it power by USB power?_

 

I would like to know too, I dont really like the idea of built in rechargeable battery like this.


----------



## nc8000

It can not be powered by USB. As to bypassing the battery I don't know, try to email iBasso


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can the D1 power by AC power and bypass the battery?
 the idea of it is jz i m wan to use it for long time per day as i plan to make this as soundcard, but i dont wan to shorten my battery life

 or can it power by USB power?_

 

We had a discussion of the life of lithium-ion batteries in another thread. They deteriorate even when they are not used. It's complicated but the rate of deterioration depends on storage temperature and the level of charge during storage, as will as charging voltage and number of charge/discharge cycles. Here's something I wrote in another post:-

_If you look at this link:-

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/parttwo-34.htm

 There's a table indicating that lithium ion batteries loose between 2% and 35% of their capacity after a year, depending on the charge level and storage temperature.

 It's obviously a complicated topic, as the charge voltage can have a big effect on the number of charge cycles the battery will last (high voltages are bad), as does the discharge current (the higher the worse).

 It seems a battery stored under optimal conditions (0 deg C, 40% charge) will loose 2% capacity in a year, but if it is stored fully charged at ambient temperature it will lose 20% of its capacity. If it's in use there will be further loss due to charge cycling._


----------



## yuheng

but if the d1 itself cut off the elec to the battery once it fully charged, i think it solve, i jz wonder whether this function exists or not?

 or when i plug in the ac, the power dont go thru battery? being charged by USB?


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It can not be powered by USB._

 

This would be a serious limitation for a portable amp with USB input. Are you sure this is true?


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This would be a serious limitation for a portable amp with USB input. Are you sure this is true?_

 

Not that serious, it's still the only amp + USB/Optical/SPDIF DAC out there, isn't it? And it does have rechargeable battery and mains power supply.


----------



## vasu

USB doesn't provide that much power, certainly not enough to operate an amp. It's nothing unique to the D1


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This would be a serious limitation for a portable amp with USB input. Are you sure this is true?_

 

No I am not certain but that is my understanding. When I plug usb in the usb diode on the D1 lights up but the charging diode does not. I would have thought that there is way too much going on inside this baby for usb to supply enough power. But if it is important to you I would suggest you email iBasso and ask then you are sure to get the correct answer.


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vasu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_USB doesn't provide that much power, certainly not enough to operate an amp. It's nothing unique to the D1_

 

The MOVE works beautifully under USB power.


----------



## J.D.N

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The MOVE works beautifully under USB power._

 

Is the MOVE battery charged as well? Or does the USB just provide enough power for normal operation. Im not all that bothered. Has anyone else noticed, or cares that the MOVE is well, not so attractive.


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *J.D.N* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the MOVE battery charged as well?_

 

The MOVE has no internal charging circuit.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vasu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_USB doesn't provide that much power, certainly not enough to operate an amp. It's nothing unique to the D1_

 

It could also depend on the USB port that the unit is plugged into. It could be on a computer or on a hub which could be either passive or powered. The different possibilities would influence how much power the USB connection has.


----------



## lionel marechal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vasu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_USB doesn't provide that much power, certainly not enough to operate an amp. It's nothing unique to the D1_

 

My HP-DAC DAC/amp is usb powered, and I am very happy with it.
 So you cannot say "certainly not enough to operate an amp". You could consider that's it's not enough but it DOES work.
 My understanding as well is that the HP-DAC has been specifically design to be usb powered.
 Lionel


----------



## dogday

USB is enough to power the Move, but according to the Move thread, its sound improves quite a lot if you power it with batteries or 12v AC. To my understandning, the D1 has a better DAC, which could need more juice than the Move, therefore making it too heavy a load for USB. Amp only, then? Well, they might have decided that it's better to have the best audio performance rather than making it able to run on USB power with sacrifices in sound quality. 20 hours on batteries for both DAC and amp isn't that bad - it'll surely outlast your laptop...

 BTW, if anyone has heard both, which has the best DAC, the D1 or an E-MU 1212m?


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dogday* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_USB is enough to power the Move, but according to the Move thread, it's sound improves quite a lot if you power it with batteries or 12v AC. To my understandning, the D1 has a better DAC, which could need more juice than the Move, therefore making it too heavy a load for USB. Amp only, then? Well, they might have decided that it's better to have the best audio performance rather than making it able to run on USB power with sacrifices in sound quality. 20 hours on batteries for both DAC and amp isn't that bad - it'll surely outlast your laptop..._

 

In fact, the impressions in the MOVE thread have been that sound improvements with more voltage are quite subtle, if perceivable, even with 300 ohm headphones. Since many, many amp designs providing good sound quality have relied on a single 9V battery split into 4.5V+, 4.5V-, I believe we can lay to rest the assertion out of hand that the +5V, -5V voltage provided by USB power is insufficient to power a headphone amplifier.

 In the quest for high sound quality, simpler is usually better and many amps disperse with an internal charging circuit to this end. Internal batteries and charging circuits are clearly driven by a desire for convenience rather than sound quality. The proof is in the pudding of course and the amp that can provide high sound quality _and_ convenience in a single package at a competitive price will be a winner. Perhaps the D1 _is_ one.


----------



## NunoSilva

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 ...snip...

 Since many, many amp designs providing good sound quality have relied on a single 9V battery split into 4.5V+, 4.5V-, I believe we can lay to rest the assertion out of hand that the +5V, -5V voltage provided by USB power is insufficient to power a headphone amplifier.

 ..snip..
_

 

Voltage is exactly half the equation. With 5v and unlimited amps (from Ampere, not Amplifier), you can create *any* voltage, like 1000000000000v  The problem with USB power is the Amps part, because you can have, at most, 500mA.

 From what I know, and if I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me, the D1 shpis with a 2A charger. That's 4x better than USB can provide.

 Regarding "over-volting" and "over-amping": Too much voltage can destroy equipment. Over-amping is good and desirable; the device will use only what it needs.

 Regards,
 Nuno


----------



## HiFlight

Today I tried a couple of my favorite-sounding dual SOIC opamps in the iBasso. As I was somewhat limited on time, I tried only the AD8066 and the AD8599. Both sounded (to me) better than the AD823 that came installed. Detailing and imaging sounded better. I thought the 8066 had better imaging and sounded a bit further away than the 8599, which was more enveloping and had a bit more detail, especially in the upper frequencies. 

 I ended up keeping the 8066 in the unit and am pleased with the sound. I plan yet to try the AD8620 and probably the AD8397 with the bufferes bypassed. 

 I did not play with the buffers, as they are apparently set up to function as 2x buffers for each channel, and the NE5532 does enjoy a good reputation in audio applications. 

 As the basis of my comparisons, I a/b'd the results of the D1 changes against the output of my Xin Reference (using the optical output of my source and the D1 optical input)

 I did not change the AD8616 in the DAC section, as I think it would be hard to find a better choice for that purpose. 

 The D1 does appear to offer lots of potential for those who wish to explore different opamp/buffer configurations. 

 It is important to keep in mind that opamps are only a small part of the entire amp, and as such, will not make huge differences in sound quality. The choice of opamp is more a personal preference of desired sound than an absolute benchmark. No single opamp is ever going to sound perfect in all applications! 

 As time permits, I will try some additional devices and post my results.


----------



## Dexdexter

Thanks for that report, Ron! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 How many hours of burn-in did you D1 have when you started rolling?

 I'm at about 65 hours now and my D1 still seems to be evolving, so I'll probably wait a little longer before rolling in the AD8620 and LM4562 that I currently have on hand.

 Best, Dex

 P.S.: How do you go about bypassing the buffers?


----------



## Mansize_tissue

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NunoSilva* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the D1 shpis with a 2A charger._

 

I doubt it needs anywhere near this much, though. I mean, Jan said the Move only requires about 50mA, or something like that. I can't imagine the D1 would require more than 10x this amount.


----------



## Mansize_tissue

Double post.


----------



## jamato8

The D1 has two 2amp Li-ion batteries so it would take a higher ampere adapter to charge them in the 4 or so hours required to charge.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Today I tried a couple of my favorite-sounding dual SOIC opamps in the iBasso. As I was somewhat limited on time, I tried only the AD8066 and the AD8599. Both sounded (to me) better than the AD823 that came installed. Detailing and imaging sounded better. I thought the 8066 had better imaging and sounded a bit further away than the 8599, which was more enveloping and had a bit more detail, especially in the upper frequencies. 

 I ended up keeping the 8066 in the unit and am pleased with the sound. I plan yet to try the AD8620 and probably the AD8397 with the bufferes bypassed. 

 I did not play with the buffers, as they are apparently set up to function as 2x buffers for each channel, and the NE5532 does enjoy a good reputation in audio applications. 

 As the basis of my comparisons, I a/b'd the results of the D1 changes against the output of my Xin Reference (using the optical output of my source and the D1 optical input)

 I did not change the AD8616 in the DAC section, as I think it would be hard to find a better choice for that purpose. 

 The D1 does appear to offer lots of potential for those who wish to explore different opamp/buffer configurations. 

 It is important to keep in mind that opamps are only a small part of the entire amp, and as such, will not make huge differences in sound quality. The choice of opamp is more a personal preference of desired sound than an absolute benchmark. No single opamp is ever going to sound perfect in all applications! 

 As time permits, I will try some additional devices and post my results._

 

I agree the 8066 is a very nice sounding opamp in the D1. Thanks for trying this out. Nice mids and detail. I didn't remember having any on hand but found two. 

 edit: I am not sure about the upper mids and lower highs with this opamp. A little etched but it needs some time.


----------



## HiFlight

The AD8599 does have nicer highs than the 8066. I think though I will try the LM4562, as I have several and am very curious as to how it sounds in the D1. It was not one of my favorites in my Xin amps, despite the good specs. It might just be the thing in the D1! Probably the AD275 might make a good showing also, for those preferring a bolder sound signature. 

 I probably should have left the D1 age a bit more, but couldn't resist trying some other devices.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for that report, Ron! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How many hours of burn-in did you D1 have when you started rolling?

 I'm at about 65 hours now and my D1 still seems to be evolving, so I'll probably wait a little longer before rolling in the AD8620 and LM4562 that I currently have on hand.

 Best, Dex

 P.S.: How do you go about bypassing the buffers?_

 

Dex....

 Scroll down to the first photo in this link. It shows how to jumper a dual opamp (or "bypass") Since there are 2 sockets that use dual opamps, you will need to make up 4 jumpers. It is not necessary to use covered wire as in the pix, I usually just clip the lead off of a 1/4 watt resistor and use it. It helps to have a small pair of flat-jaw pliers to make nice bends. 

 The jumper connects the input to the output of each section of the amp, thereby effectively bypassing it. 

http://www.fixup.net/talk/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37


----------



## Dexdexter

Thanks for your reply and the link to the photo, Ron!

 I'm sure I'll just stick to good ol' op-amp rolling for the time being, but it's nice to know how it's done.


----------



## jamato8

Ok, the 8066 has lost its edginess and is sounding better. I think the stock opamp sounds good but have the sockets does give the option to fine tube, if needed.


----------



## HiFlight

I decided to go ahead and try the LM4562 in the D1 although it had not met my expectations in my LE or SM-IV. For some reason, it sounds much better in the D1. Very detailed and smooth with good imaging. I will spend some time with this before making any more changes.


----------



## souperman

Do you guys mind starting a new thread with an organized sound quality review of stock unit and with opamps (mainly HiFlight, and jamato8)? I can help out organizing the text. I think it would be very useful for everyone who has a D1 or is really looking to get one for its opamp capabilities. This way people wouldn't ask the same questions and we could have a thread to point to as a reference.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you guys mind starting a new thread with an organized sound quality review of stock unit and with opamps (mainly HiFlight, and jamato8)? I can help out organizing the text. I think it would be very useful for everyone who has a D1 or is really looking to get one for its opamp capabilities. This way people wouldn't ask the same questions and we could have a thread to point to as a reference._

 

I thought THIS thread was the point of reference


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you guys mind starting a new thread with an organized sound quality review of stock unit and with opamps (mainly HiFlight, and jamato8)? I can help out organizing the text. I think it would be very useful for everyone who has a D1 or is really looking to get one for its opamp capabilities. This way people wouldn't ask the same questions and we could have a thread to point to as a reference._

 

So you want to condense what has been said about break-in and sound qualities and also the sound with different opamps? 

 By the way I love the bass of the 8066, very tight fast and interesting.


----------



## J.D.N

Ok, seriously now, im just about to buy a gain clone amp for my student rig, don't tell me i might have to buy some chips to amp roll the D1 in order to find my perfect sound straight away! Ah well, you only live once, not like you can take anything into the after... oh wait, i don't believe in an after life, bring on the stupid purchases!


----------



## HiFlight

I am back to the AD8066! It just sounds better than any of the others I have tried and is further improving with additional time.


----------



## jamato8

Yes, the 8066 is very, very good and very enjoyable. I like it very much. Thanks Ron.


----------



## cooperpwc

Ron (HighFlight),

 I'm very impressed with your analysis of the sound of the iBasso D1. Since you have the Iriver H120, can you please assist with a comparison? Many of us are very interested in your opinion.

 1. H140 optical out to the iBasso optical in (and using the iBasso D1's integrated DAC/AMP capability).

 2. H140 analog line out to the iBasso D1's analog line in. 

 Plug in your favourite headphones to the D1 and compare the two setups. Which sounds better?

 Much thanks!


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought THIS thread was the point of reference 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Did you not understand my post? The reason I asked for a thread other than this one because there is a lot of posts in the thread that don't have anything to do with the SQ. When you point someone to this thread, it may take awhile to search through everything. Jamato got my point, so I guess that's all that matters. Yes, I was just wondering if we should just condense all the impressions into one posts instead of tens of scattered posts around this thread.


----------



## souperman

BTW I'm wondering...which one has the punchier bass...the MOVE or the D1.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As the basis of my comparisons, I a/b'd the results of the D1 changes against the output of my Xin Reference (using the optical output of my source and the D1 optical input)_

 

So how does the D1 compare to the Xin Reference? I would be very interested to know how they compare.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As a straight line amp it does not have gain enough to drive my K340's, even at max on the volume dial it is too quiet. I mailed iBasso about this and got the reply that they can't go over the 6 gain it is build with because the dac part outputs 1.5V so this might be resolved once I get hold of my optical cable to connect the Sony that way instead of line-in._

 

I can now confirm that this is exactly the case. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I finally tried using the optical input of the D1 with my Sony CD Walkman D-EJ2000 and the difference in gain between the optical and line-outputs is fairly substantial. 

 While I don't have anything on-hand as difficult to drive as your K340s (although the 40 ohm PROlines are not exactly easy), perhaps you'll find that the difference by going through the DAC is ultimately enough to drive them properly.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cooperpwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ron (HighFlight),

 I'm very impressed with your analysis of the sound of the iBasso D1. Since you have the Iriver H120, can you please assist with a comparison? Many of us are very interested in your opinion.

 1. H140 optical out to the iBasso optical in (and using the iBasso D1's integrated DAC/AMP capability).

 2. H140 analog line out to the iBasso D1's analog line in. 

 Plug in your favourite headphones to the D1 and compare the two setups. Which sounds better?

 Much thanks!_

 

Although the analog output of the H120/140 sounds very good, the optical out sounds better when using a quality phone. With mediocre phones, there will probably be no detectable differences. I would put it this way: With the analog out, it is like looking thru a clean window. With the optical out, it is like looking thru the window with the glass removed. 

 The differences are subtle, but the detail and texture of complex musical passages are more apparent when using the optical out. 

 The benefits of the optical out can only be fully realized with recordings of high quality.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So how does the D1 compare to the Xin Reference? I would be very interested to know how they compare._

 

The new Reference has a better soundstage and sounds much more 3-dimensional than do any of my other amps. It is now the benchmark that I use as a standard of comparison. It is the only one of my amps that truly gives the feeling of a live performance. The soundfield does actually extend beyond the width of one's head. It gives somewhat the same feeling as using a good crossfeed, but does so without the need for mechanical additions. 

 Spatial characteristics of the musical performance leave very little to be desired, regardless of the type of music. 

 Truly a remarkable instrument.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW I'm wondering...which one has the punchier bass...the MOVE or the D1._

 

I find the Move has a bit more emphasis in the lower bass than does the D1. A bit more fullness, perhaps due to the choice of opamps, perhaps due to other circuit choices. I would not say that one is necessarily better than the other, but the choice might be which one is more appropriate to the headphone current in use. For example, I do think the Move sounds better with my AKG701, but the D1 is the better choice when using my Atrios or HD650.


----------



## ghezbora

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find the Move has a bit more emphasis in the lower bass than does the D1. A bit more fullness, perhaps due to the choice of opamps, perhaps due to other circuit choices. I would not say that one is necessarily better than the other, but the choice might be which one is more appropriate to the headphone current in use. For example, I do think the Move sounds better with my AKG701, but the D1 is the better choice when using my Atrios or HD650._

 

Would the MOVE or the D1 be better suited for driving MS2i's?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find the Move has a bit more emphasis in the lower bass than does the D1. A bit more fullness, perhaps due to the choice of opamps, perhaps due to other circuit choices. I would not say that one is necessarily better than the other, but the choice might be which one is more appropriate to the headphone current in use. For example, I do think the Move sounds better with my AKG701, but the D1 is the better choice when using my Atrios or HD650._

 

Do you think there is an opamp that can be rolled into the D1 to make it have more emphasis on the bass?


----------



## jamato8

I think that in general opamps offer subtle changes. For me I find that the bass of the D1 to be fine and very well integrated into the frequency with speed and accuracy and not overblown. For me if it had any more bass I would not like it. It balances on well defined bass but at first it was too strong for my taste, as noted in my earlier observations. It has now firmed up and sounds right to me be it classical or rock or reggae.


----------



## antonyfirst

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The new Reference has a better soundstage and sounds much more 3-dimensional than do any of my other amps. It is now the benchmark that I use as a standard of comparison. It is the only one of my amps that truly gives the feeling of a live performance. The soundfield does actually extend beyond the width of one's head. It gives somewhat the same feeling as using a good crossfeed, but does so without the need for mechanical additions. 

 Spatial characteristics of the musical performance leave very little to be desired, regardless of the type of music. 

 Truly a remarkable instrument._

 

Hi Ron,

 Reading your impressions in the "26 amp reviewed" thread, I thought you didn't like the Reference as much as both your Supermacro and Supermicro. Do you have a newer reference which has made you change your mind?


----------



## jamato8

Ron has a new Reference. It is based on the same topology as mine. If these ever make out to everyone you will be blown away. It is like a very fine tube amp in a little aluminum case that you can carry in your pocket, just don't sit on it.


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can now confirm that this is exactly the case. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I finally tried using the optical input of the D1 with my Sony CD Walkman D-EJ2000 and the difference in gain between the optical and line-outputs is fairly substantial. 

 While I don't have anything on-hand as difficult to drive as your K340s (although the 40 ohm PROlines are not exactly easy), perhaps you'll find that the difference by going through the DAC is ultimately enough to drive them properly._

 

Does this apply to the USB connection as well? I mean, is the gain also higher when using USB compared to Line-In, or is this limited to the optical in?


----------



## cooperpwc

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Although the analog output of the H120/140 sounds very good, the optical out sounds better when using a quality phone. With mediocre phones, there will probably be no detectable differences. I would put it this way: With the analog out, it is like looking thru a clean window. With the optical out, it is like looking thru the window with the glass removed. 

 The differences are subtle, but the detail and texture of complex musical passages are more apparent when using the optical out. 

 The benefits of the optical out can only be fully realized with recordings of high quality._

 

Great! So it sounds like the DAC in the D1 is well implemented. Thanks.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Ahhhh... I see, you was saying "stay on topic" is all. I was confused, as I thought you ment start a new thread to refer to as "all things D1 except what we thing about it." 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 or did you mean, lets have a thread about objective/factual stuff, and a thread about the subjective/what we think stuff?

 Okay, I'm still confused, but it gets better after 12 noon. Oh, wait, it's after 1pm. My bad.

 Anyway, my D1 shipped yesterday, so I will burn-in the D1 with my "new to me but used/burned-in" HFI7000DVD's and HD600's that are also on the way, and then compare it to my burned in Tomahawk. Is that on topic enough 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (really, I am being silly, not mean)


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rhymesgalore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does this apply to the USB connection as well? I mean, is the gain also higher when using USB compared to Line-In, or is this limited to the optical in?_

 

Yes. Same DAC, same 1.5v output voltage, just a different input. The gain is identical for the optical and USB inputs (and theoretically, coaxial, though I haven't tried it yet).


----------



## Krohn

The more I read the impressions starting to come in, the more I wish I had a money tree in my backyard, even a little sapling! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm very glad to hear this is a quality product with so many useful bells and whistles at a totally reasonable price. So many times I see stupid things passed off as 'features' for items. This seems to cut through all that and get right down to business.


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes. Same DAC, same 1.5v output voltage, just a different input. The gain is identical for the optical and USB inputs (and theoretically, coaxial, though I haven't tried it yet)._

 

Can you perhaps explain to me, why the gain is lower when using the amp without the DAC?

 I mean a gain of 6 is still fine for most headphones, but i'm interested in the technical explanation for this....


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rhymesgalore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you perhaps explain to me, why the gain is lower when using the amp without the DAC?

 I mean a gain of 6 is still fine for most headphones, but i'm interested in the technical explanation for this...._

 

The gain imparted by the amp section of the D1 is the same for both DAC inputs and analog line-in. The difference lies in the output voltage of the respective "sources", with the DAC being higher at 1.5v.

 It's exactly the same difference I find between my Roksan Xerxes.20 turntable and my Ah! Njoe Tjoeb CD 4000 Reference when using my Hi-Fi system or my CanAmp. In order to achieve the same listening levels, I need to turn the volume up higher when listening to my TT because my CDP has an output voltage of 2.5v. The gain of the respective amplifiers remains constant.


----------



## souperman

Jamato where do you put your D1 in your amp rankings?


----------



## rhymesgalore

So this means the output power of the amp itself (when using the line-in) is below 1.5v no matter how great the output power of the source for the line-in is?

 Because that's where the difference in your example comes from. If you connect a source with a higher output voltage it results in a higher output voltage of the amp itself.


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rhymesgalore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So this means the output power of the amp itself (when using the line-in) is below 1.5v no matter how great the output power of the source for the line-in is?

 Because that's where the difference in your example comes from. If you connect a source with a higher output voltage it results in a higher output voltage of the amp itself._

 

Yes, the amplifier is capable of amplifying a signal of a certain strength a certain amount. The higher the input signal, the higher the output signal, but this is only really relevant when the amp is pushed to its maximum output or when the difference in the strength of the input signal is extreme or you have an unusually large load.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Jamato where do you put your D1 in your amp rankings?_

 

I have only compared it to the Reference and the Reference is better but the Reference, imo, is the reference of portables. The Reference has a little more air, smooth extension and natural layering of vocals, or instruments or whatever. Having said this I do find the D1 amp to be very good and very enjoyable to use. It still needs more time. I have maybe 180 hour or a little more and I look to see what it sounds like after 300 or 400 hours as caps often take that long to do really form and when you are talking about subtle changes that differentiate the top tier amps from those below, this is what it takes, time and listening. I have the Reference and other amps to compare to and then I also have Monica and she is getting impatient with me not listening to her for a while. :^)


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rhymesgalore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So this means the output power of the amp itself (when using the line-in) is below 1.5v no matter how great the output power of the source for the line-in is?_

 

You really seem to be over-thinking this a bit. So I'll defer to koto-in's very concise answer above.


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You really seem to be over-thinking this a bit. So I'll defer to koto-in's very concise answer above. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

[size=xx-small]_Ok, now it get's really off-topic, sorry for that.....
_[/size]
 My "confusion" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 simply comes from the fact that with my Aria it's exactly the other way round. 

 I get 2.8v when using the USB-DAC, and 12v with 4v input when using the analog ins (gain factor 3)

 So shouldn't a gain factor of 6 on the D1 give you 6 times the voltage you put into it? For example 1v input -> 6v maximum output. Or simply put: More volume than the DAC provides with its 1.5v.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rhymesgalore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[size=xx-small]Ok, now it get's really off-topic, sorry for that.....
[/size]
 My "confusion" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 simply comes from the fact that with my Aria it's exactly the other way round. 

 I get 2.8v when using the USB-DAC, and 12v with 4v input when using the analog ins (gain factor 3)

 So shouldn't a gain factor of 6 on the D1 give you 6 times the voltage you put into it? For example 1v input -> 6v maximum output. Or simply put: More volume than the DAC provides with its 1.5v._

 


 Here:

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_1/4.html


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Ron,

 Reading your impressions in the "26 amp reviewed" thread, I thought you didn't like the Reference as much as both your Supermacro and Supermicro. Do you have a newer reference which has made you change your mind?_

 

That was my old Beta Reference from around the third week in May 2007. A lot of changes have been made since.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That was my old Beta Reference from around the third week in May 2007. A lot of changes have been made since. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I should have made it more clear that I think the new Reference sounds much better than the betas that I tried. Considerably more expansive soundstage. No need at all for crossfeed, surprisingly.


----------



## HiFlight

I tried a lot more opamps today in my D1, using the optical input. None really seemed much of an improvement over the AD8066 until I removed the buffers, jumpered the inputs/outputs and installed the AD8397. 

 The results were very impressive. Smooth detailed sound without harsh or overly bright highs. 

 With greater than 300ma output, there is no necessity for buffers, which means less "stuff" in the signal path. 

 Use caution when removing buffers! Very tight working quarters. 

 I am now totally satisfied with the sound. I will be interested in how it matures with more time. 

 Now, to just spend some quality time listening.....!


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tried a lot more opamps today in my D1, using the optical input. None really seemed much of an improvement over the AD8066 until I removed the buffers, jumpered the inputs/outputs and installed the AD8397. 

 The results were very impressive. Smooth detailed sound without harsh or overly bright highs. 

 With greater than 300ma output, there is no necessity for buffers, which means less "stuff" in the signal path. 

 Use caution when removing buffers! Very tight working quarters. 

 I am now totally satisfied with the sound. I will be interested in how it matures with more time. 

 Now, to just spend some quality time listening.....!_

 

So HiFlight, I was wondering (sorry if you already noted this), do you like the MOVE better or the D1, and why?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So HiFlight, I was wondering (sorry if you already noted this), do you like the MOVE better or the D1, and why?_

 

At this point, I like the D1 better than the Move as I am using the optical input for all of my MP3 recordings (from my H120 source) 

 The D1 just offers more options that I use often than does the Move. 

 I am not taking anything away from the Move, as it is a fine instrument, but it is up there with some heady company! The Move is at its best with phones that tend to be bright at the higher end of the frequency spectrum.


----------



## jamato8

Leave it alone! Now I have to try the 8397. I can't remember if I have any but I am sure I must have them. Now to pull the buffers, yada, yada, yada. . . .

 Ok, I have the opamp but its not soldered up and my adapter is solder together either. Now I have to go make an adapter and solder the opamp . . .


 Hey Ron, did the bass tighten up after a while. The bass doesn't seem as tight with the 8397 but that may change.


----------



## bpfiguer

On October HeadRoom will release the "2007 HeadRoom Portable Micro Amp w/DAC", which will be powered by Ion-Li batteries. Will be interesting to know if the HR Micro Amp/DAC (advantages: gain switch and crossfeed) is much better than the iBasso D1. The HR Micro Amp/DAC will cost almost three times the price of the iBasso D1.


----------



## jamato8

Hard to say. It uses the AD8397 chip in the amp from what I have read. The dac chips in the D1 are very good but it is all about implimentation when you start talking about the same chips in different units. I know that it take quite a bit for me to spend that much and I have never found HeadRoom to be really cost effective in relation to what you can get from other manufactures.


----------



## Dexdexter

Ron and John, have either of you tried the AD8620?

 I'm still waiting for my D1 to mature a bit more before I start to roll...


----------



## Dexdexter

One nice little tidbit I've noticed about the power management functionality of the D1, while continuing the burn-in, is that the batteries will fully-charge when connected to the AC adapter despite the amplifier and DAC running constantly. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also see on the iBasso website that the out-of-stock announcement has been removed from the D1 page, so I guess they must be back in stock again and ready to ship.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ron and John, have either of you tried the AD8620?

 I'm still waiting for my D1 to mature a bit more before I start to roll..._

 

Yes, I tried the AD8620. It sounded good, but still required the buffers. It did sound different than the Move which also uses the 8620. 

 I think the AD8397 is a better overall choice.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can now confirm that this is exactly the case. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I finally tried using the optical input of the D1 with my Sony CD Walkman D-EJ2000 and the difference in gain between the optical and line-outputs is fairly substantial. 

 While I don't have anything on-hand as difficult to drive as your K340s (although the 40 ohm PROlines are not exactly easy), perhaps you'll find that the difference by going through the DAC is ultimately enough to drive them properly._

 

Good news. I get to try it myself tomorrow night


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I tried the AD8620. It sounded good, but still required the buffers. It did sound different than the Move which also uses the 8620._

 

2x8610.


----------



## visia

Is it necessary to bypass buffers to use AD8397? From what I understand it does not require buffers, but would it be possible to use it with the buffers in place? It sounds like bypassing buffers may not be very trivial for a person with limited experience.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I tried the AD8620. It sounded good, but still required the buffers. It did sound different than the Move which also uses the 8620. 

 I think the AD8397 is a better overall choice._


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *visia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it necessary to bypass buffers to use AD8397? From what I understand it does not require buffers, but would it be possible to use it with the buffers in place? It sounds like bypassing buffers may not be very trivial for a person with limited experience._

 

I think you would get a very distorted output at anything above minimal volume settings. With the output of the 8397, buffers are not necessary. 

 I know that Dr Xin always recommended that one not attempt to use buffers with the Ad8397. He used that opamp as a default in some of his amps. 

 It is not difficult to make up a set of jumper adapters using Radio Shack low-profile dip sockets. A package only costs about a dollar. It is easier and safer than trying to insert jumper wires directly into the iBasso buffer sockets. 

 The most difficult part is removing the buffers without damaging them. I used a pair of slim medical forceps and just worked them loose by gently wiggling and pulling from above. Once they are out, it is very easy to plug in the adapters with the jumper wires already in place. 

 If one doesn't wish to remove the buffers, the AD8066 and AD8620 are, IMHO, an improvement over the stock opamp. The OPA2111 also sounded very nice.


----------



## jamato8

So far I am not sure about the 8397. It does sound good I just don't know about the bass. The 8066 with buffers does sound very good imo. I like Dire Straits and Red Hot Chilli Peppers and there can be strong bass, which can be great when controlled and, well, not when not. :^) The quanity of bass seems increased with the 8397, which some may like, it isn't bad, just more off it.

 Hey Ron, try bypassing the first dac and run two 8397's.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So far I am not sure about the 8397. It does sound good I just don't know about the bass. The 8066 with buffers does sound very good imo. I like Dire Straits and Red Hot Chilli Peppers and there can be strong bass, which can be great when controlled and, well, not when not. :^) The quanity of bass seems increased with the 8397, which some may like, it isn't bad, just more off it.

 Hey Ron, try bypassing the first dac and run two 8397's._

 

I didn't see any buffer for the 8616. It has lots of output on its own (about 150ma) as well as good sound. I am not sure how much improvement the 8397 would be, but I may try a swap just to check it out. 

 The extra weight of the bass with the 8397 makes the D1 more closely resemble the sound signature of the Move when comparing them side-by-side. I like it a lot. 

 With these recently tried opamps sounding so good, it is ultimately going to become a matter of individual listening preferences. 

 Wouldn't it be nice to find an opamp that is perfect for all the amps??? It would surely save a lot of trial swapping!


----------



## jamato8

No, not the 8616, it is for the dac. I am talking about the amp section. Bypass the first dual and put the 8397 in the two output sockets.


----------



## jamato8

Yes but if the output impedence is lowered the bass response and transparency might be improved. There might be less smearing of the frequency but hearing would be the best method. I have heard amps that seemed to have too much in the signal path but do to implementation, sounded very good.


----------



## jamato8

Yes, the output of the 5532 paralled isn't huge but it does work well and I enjoy the sound. I think the ne5532 has a little warmer sound. I like the combination Ron came up with in using the 8066 and the 5532's. It would be nice if someone came up with a little discrete output section of high quality.


----------



## NelsonVandal

Damn you Head-Fi, I want one of those. PLEASE, can someone tell me if it sounds better with optical out than iRiver IHP1xx line out. Tell me it's sounds like crap so I don't have to buy one
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . No, tell me it's fantastic so I know what I'm going to save up to.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It would be nice if someone came up with a little discrete output section of high quality._

 

If there's room for discrete transistors like TO92 (depends on the height), then it could be done on a perfboard. Otherwise you have to etch a board for SMD parts. I don't know if there is a much better opamp than AD8397, and with that you don't need buffers at all.

 At what voltage does the opamps run? There must be a DC/DC step-up converter on board.


----------



## jamato8

There is quite a bit of room in the D1. Height wise there is room left over, well within bounds. There is enough room for my favorite caps, ah Blackgate, can we all say, ah Blackgate. To wait 400 hours for the forming of the cap, gag but ah, Blackgate. It is interesting they used Sanyo (the short low esr type like oscon) in the digital section, which what I do, preferring them there to BG's but BG's in the anolog section, that would be nicccce.

 The 8397 is interesting driving the NE5532's. The sound has great spead, lack of smearing to me by my own definition among other things, and snap to the sound. Not sure if I can live with it but so easy to try and go to whatever I like. I haven't opamp rolled for a long time. So far I like the sound of the 8066 as well rounded and more tube like, with the good qualities of tube reproduction.


----------



## jamato8

They are using 50 volt electrolytics that only need 6.3 volt for the supply of the opamps. I find that using electrolytic close to the working voltage is much better and using film caps rated much higher works better. With the uf being using there is plenty of room for some nice Blackgates because they tend to be larger when at the same voltage rating but at 6.3, there is enough room for the uf's or even more.


----------



## jamato8

There is just below 5 volts on the B+.


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is just below 5 volts on the B+._

 

The NE5532 is spec'd for supply voltage from 10 to 30, so there must be a step up voltage converter. Measure on pin 4 and 8 on the NE5532 board.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ciro* 
_What you need (since it's a opamp you're replacing) is a closed loop buffer ... I have no knowledge of those discrete buffers, are they like that?_

 

So we don't know if the opamps are in multiloop or two local loops.
 The common discrete buffers are open loop and works excellent in closed multi loop. They are claimed to have a lot of distortion due to the open loop and bad damping factor and cross talk because of high output impedance, but they really sound very very good that way too. So it should sound fine either way. One problem if there are two local loops, could be DC-offset, and the buffers had to be perfectly matched or adjusted to a low offset. But, the opamps are'nt far from each other and the loop could be air-wired. It would be a bit fiddly to get the pin configuration right for the dual opamp socket. All buffers I've made are for single configured sockets.

 And PLEASE again, tell us the difference between iRiver IHP1xx line out and optical out through this amp. That's what we ALL want to know.


----------



## jamato8

8 volts on pin 8.


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_8 volts on pin 8._

 

Is it 8V from pin 8 to ground? Then it's probably -8V from pin 4 to ground = 16V supply. Good to know for opamprollers. I looked at the pictures. There seem to be 2xAD823 and 2xNE5532. Is it balanced, or what does all the opamps do? Could it be easly tweaked to a fully balanced amp?


----------



## jamato8

One AD823 and two 5532's. One 8618 for the dac section low pass. 

 What I like is an internal balanced designed as from a preamp to amp section. The sound is excellent this way but I don't see anyone doing this. I have done it for my pre and mono amps on my home setup of tube equipment and love it. It would be easy on a small portable but no go so far.


----------



## Dexdexter

Sorry to crash the op-amp, buffer, and modding potential discussion, but I just came across this interesting bit of info on a Malaysian forum:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* 
_news updated from iBasso, i have get myself one demo unit, guys, can come my house and test it after i received it.

 regarding for the soundcard function.
*it can be pushed by ac power and after the battery being full charged , the elec bypass the battery and this will save for the lifespan of battery.*_

 

The entire thread can be viewed HERE.

 Just wondering if anyone knows whether this would actually extend the lifespan of the D1's lithium-ion batteries?

 I'm a little bit confused by some of the explanations I've read about the properties and characteristics of Li-ion batteries such as that found at BatteryUniversity:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by * Isidor Buchmann/BatteryUniversity* 
_A lithium-ion battery provides 300-500 discharge/charge cycles. The battery prefers a partial rather than a full discharge. Frequent full discharges should be avoided when possible. Instead, charge the battery more often or use a larger battery. There is no concern of memory when applying unscheduled charges...

 ... Aging of lithium-ion is an issue that is often ignored. A lithium-ion battery in use typically lasts between 2-3 years. The capacity loss manifests itself in increased internal resistance caused by oxidation. Eventually, the cell resistance reaches a point where the pack can no longer deliver the stored energy although the battery may still have ample charge. For this reason, an aged battery can be kept longer in applications that draw low current as opposed to a function that demands heavy loads._

 

So what I'd like to know is: Is it advantageous to keep the D1 tethered to the AC adapter whenever possible in use at home, saving battery-only operation solely for portable usage?


----------



## yobs

Not to thread steal but...

 Curious about the difference with say a portable DAC/AMP combo (ie. the D1) vs say a dedicated DAC like the Beresford 7510.

 Would there be a significant difference between the SQ from just the DAC part feeding an external amp? Asked this elsewhere, but no love 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


 So what I'd like to know is: Is it advantageous to keep the D1 tethered to the AC adapter whenever possible in use at home, saving battery-only operation solely for portable usage? 
 

Yes, why would you want to run down the battery and recharge it over and over at home? Use the AC and use the batteries on the go, flying down the bike path or on the subway or you know, whatever is fun while listening to tunes.


----------



## Dexdexter

Great, thanks, John!


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yobs* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not to thread steal but...

 Curious about the difference with say a portable DAC/AMP combo (ie. the D1) vs say a dedicated DAC like the Beresford 7510.

 Would there be a significant difference between the SQ from just the DAC part feeding an external amp? Asked this elsewhere, but no love 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

So far, the DAC is sounding very nice indeed with the on-board amp, but I fully intend to explore the D1's abilities as a stand-alone DAC once I'm satisfied that the burn-in is finished. I'm sure that others will be posting impressions about this aspect eventually as well, so stay tuned.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to crash the op-amp, buffer, and modding potential discussion, but I just came across this interesting bit of info on a Malaysian forum:



 The entire thread can be viewed HERE.

 Just wondering if anyone knows whether this would actually extend the lifespan of the D1's lithium-ion batteries?

 I'm a little bit confused by some of the explanations I've read about the properties and characteristics of Li-ion batteries such as that found at BatteryUniversity:



 So what I'd like to know is: Is it advantageous to keep the D1 tethered to the AC adapter whenever possible in use at home, saving battery-only operation solely for portable usage?_

 

suddenly saw u quote my text ay malaysia forum
 the thing is reply by me

 this is the original quoting from the email of iBasso:
 Yses, you can use the AC adapter to power the D1. If the battery is not full, the battery would be charged at the same time, otherwise, there is not electricity pass thru the batteries.
 D1 cant be powered by USB.

 Best Regards,
 iBasso Audio

 so i come to the conclusion that it can save the lifespan of the battery


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_suddenly saw u quote my text ay malaysia forum
 the thing is reply by me_

 

Hey yuheng,

 Heh-heh, yes, we have our eyes on you in Malaysia! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And I noticed you borrowed one of my photos for your latest post, cool! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Please post your impressions here also.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_this is the original quoting from the email of iBasso:

*Yes, you can use the AC adapter to power the D1. If the battery is not full, the battery would be charged at the same time, otherwise, there is not electricity pass thru the batteries.*
 D1 cant be powered by USB.

 Best Regards,
 iBasso Audio

 so i come to the conclusion that it can save the lifespan of the battery
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So what this leaves me wondering now, then, is *since the iBasso bypasses the batteries completely once they are fully-charged, would the D1 respond favorably to a better power supply than the AC adapter supplied by iBasso?*

 I've got a 13.8v (3A) linear-regulated DC power supply on-hand, but I don't want to risk blowing-up my D1 to find out!


----------



## bpfiguer

I just placed an order for the iBasso D1 using their website (which has been down several times during the week). The PayPal payment e-mail was serice@ibasso.com (not service@ibasso.com). Could somebody with a successful purchased confirm that "serice@ibasso.com" is the right PayPal e-mail.
 Thanks


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I know that service@ibasso.com work because I have exchanged emails with it. I had serice@ibasso.com bounce when I inquired about a ship date. I got an email from payment@ibasso.com but I never tried to reply to it.


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bpfiguer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just placed an order for the iBasso D1 using their website (which has been down several times during the week). The PayPal payment e-mail was serice@ibasso.com (not service@ibasso.com). Could somebody with a successful purchased confirm that "serice@ibasso.com" is the right PayPal e-mail.
 Thanks_

 

Yeah I noticed that as well. Dont worry your ok. Mine should be delivered soon. They said its been ship via UPS.


 Corey


----------



## bpfiguer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah I noticed that as well. Dont worry your ok. Mine should be delivered soon. They said its been ship via UPS.


 Corey_

 

Thanks


----------



## souperman

So this is a question for all MOVE and D1 owners. Right now I'm really looking to buy one or the other of these two DAC/amps to run from my laptop. I'm not looking for ANY of the extra inputs coming with the D1 as I'm only going to be running out of USB, and line-in at times with my ZV:M. If you guys were to choose PURELY on sound quality from the USB to amp which would you choose? I'm personally looking for a VERY punchy bass without being bloated and good bass extension which doesn't suck out the mids (I love lush liquidy mids), and sparkly highs without being too harsh.


----------



## jamato8

Get Ray to put a usb on the B-52. :^)


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ciro* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_John, I'm curious to know if you like the headphone amp (only) of the D1 better than the C&C BOX V2? (with standard opamps)_

 

I find the D1 more real and less synthetic. It has good qualities and doesn't sound like an inexpensive portable. Plenty of punch to the bass but not just a one note bass. I also like the natural depth without being hyped.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find the D1 more real and less synthetic. It has good qualities and doesn't sound like an inexpensive portable. Plenty of punch to the bass but not just a one note bass. I also like the natural depth without being hyped._

 

Have you ever heard the MOVE before? Many have said that the bass is REALLY good. I'm really looking for quality bass that still keeps the mids sounding perfect.


----------



## jamato8

No, Ron (Hiflight) has both, I am sure he can give an opinion.


----------



## LepakVT

souperman, I've asked that same question before, because as you probably remember, I'm in the same boat as you trying to decide between the MOVE and D1 for USB only.

 HiFlight has posted before in favor of the MOVE: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...&postcount=401

 lmfboy01 replied with some more positive comments for the D1 : http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...&postcount=406


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_souperman, I've asked that same question before, because as you probably remember, I'm in the same boat as you trying to decide between the MOVE and D1 for USB only.

 HiFlight has posted before in favor of the MOVE: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...&postcount=401

 lmfboy01 replied with some more positive comments for the D1 : http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...&postcount=406_

 

You might want to as HiFlight again after listening to the D1 for a longer period of time and using a couple of different opamps.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LepakVT* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_souperman, I've asked that same question before, because as you probably remember, I'm in the same boat as you trying to decide between the MOVE and D1 for USB only.

 HiFlight has posted before in favor of the MOVE: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...&postcount=401

 lmfboy01 replied with some more positive comments for the D1 : http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...&postcount=406_

 

I think I may have settled on the MOVE, unless someones can say that the bass and mids is better on the D1.


----------



## Sisyphos

Head-Fi got me spending money again: now I also have a D1 on its way to me!
 Hope it will arrive quite soon ...


 Just one question about trying different opamps:

 Do I only need to open the D1, unplug the AD823 and put in the new opamp 
 (I'm planning to try the AD8066 and the AD8620)? 
 Is there anything else in this regard I gotta know as a total layman? 
 Can I short-circuit the D1 by inserting the opamp in the wrong direction?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...since the iBasso bypasses the batteries completely once they are fully-charged, would the D1 respond favorably to a better power supply than the AC adapter supplied by iBasso?

 I've got a 13.8v (3A) linear-regulated DC power supply on-hand, but I don't want to risk blowing-up my D1 to find out! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Here is the reply I received this morning from iBasso:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iBasso Audio* 
_D1 has its own charging circuit. It should be fine to use your new adapter.

 Also, D1 will bypass the battery, if the battery is full and it is using AC adapter._

 

So I guess it's a go, and I'll just have to try it and find out if the sound quality can be further improved by a linear-regulated and slightly higher voltage power supply.

 Just have to source the correct plug.


----------



## visia

Ron,
 I noticed Dr. Xin is offering single/dual dummy opamps on his for sale page. I have no idea whether those are easily available or require long waiting time. Would those work in D1 to by-pass buffers? I assume I would need 2 single dummy opamps for D1?
 Thanks,
 Visia

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think you would get a very distorted output at anything above minimal volume settings. With the output of the 8397, buffers are not necessary. 

 I know that Dr Xin always recommended that one not attempt to use buffers with the Ad8397. He used that opamp as a default in some of his amps. 

 It is not difficult to make up a set of jumper adapters using Radio Shack low-profile dip sockets. A package only costs about a dollar. It is easier and safer than trying to insert jumper wires directly into the iBasso buffer sockets. 

 The most difficult part is removing the buffers without damaging them. I used a pair of slim medical forceps and just worked them loose by gently wiggling and pulling from above. Once they are out, it is very easy to plug in the adapters with the jumper wires already in place. 

 If one doesn't wish to remove the buffers, the AD8066 and AD8620 are, IMHO, an improvement over the stock opamp. The OPA2111 also sounded very nice._


----------



## visia

So, its not necessary to bypass buffers to use AD8397?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is quite a bit of room in the D1. Height wise there is room left over, well within bounds. There is enough room for my favorite caps, ah Blackgate, can we all say, ah Blackgate. To wait 400 hours for the forming of the cap, gag but ah, Blackgate. It is interesting they used Sanyo (the short low esr type like oscon) in the digital section, which what I do, preferring them there to BG's but BG's in the anolog section, that would be nicccce.

 The 8397 is interesting driving the NE5532's. The sound has great spead, lack of smearing to me by my own definition among other things, and snap to the sound. Not sure if I can live with it but so easy to try and go to whatever I like. I haven't opamp rolled for a long time. So far I like the sound of the 8066 as well rounded and more tube like, with the good qualities of tube reproduction._


----------



## jamato8

I ran it with and without the buffers and it was fine. Without you have less for the signal to go through but I thought the sound was very punchy with the 5532's in place. I prefer the sound of the 8066 with the 5532's in place.


----------



## elnero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I ran it with and without the buffers and it was fine. Without you have less for the signal to go through but I thought the sound was very punchy with the 5532's in place. I prefer the sound of the 8066 with the 5532's in place._

 

What about the AD8397 without the 5532's, do you prefer that to the 8066 with 5532's?


----------



## HiFlight

I do, but I think John doesn't!


----------



## jamato8

Ron, how would you compare the sound of the Move and the D1 now?


----------



## nc8000

Finally got to try the dac via usb from my Sony pcdp and that surely got rid of the volume problem I had with my K340's, now it drives them plenty loud with some to spare. And paired with the Xin Reference this is going to be one great transportable rig once fully burned in.


----------



## jamato8

Yes I have been going back and forth with the Reference and the dac is doing very well. I also notice that with the HD650's there is more than enough power to drive them and one oclock is about as loud as I can go.


----------



## Dexdexter

Setting aside the issue of amplification for the moment, I think I think the versatility and quality of the DAC on-board the D1 is most impressive, even through the early stages of the burn-in (currently at 79 hours since I began to use the DAC). 

 I'm guessing that this is what may ultimately set the D1 apart from the Move, for those that get the opportunity to hear them side by side, as I'm hoping to next week when I make my return visit to Hans at Qables. (I'll also be able to test the D1 against the LaRocco PRII, some Xins, the Tomahawk, and the Hornet.)

 And although I had asked yuheng to post his demo impressions here as well as on the Malaysian forum, he has yet to do so, so I hope he won't mind me quoting his early thoughts focusing on the D1's DAC capabilities:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng / Lowyat.NET forum* 
_...the salesman ask me to test the sound with DAC+AMP and he said the sound is great with the combination, and this is the main idea/function to use this D1, the salesman tell me, the good for the D1 is to make it portable, u can use it as the soundcard for the computer and it is quite decent soundcard, which is superior than most of the other brand, when the time u spent ur time in lrt, it may act as portable amp which pair to ur mp3 player, after u reach office, u may plug in to ur office computer as soundcard to enjoy music "non-stop". again he give me the chances that to audition it, he use connect to maranzt CDP(model:5001) with coxial output, so i would have the chances to compare Ibasso D1 DAC & Maranzt Built-in DAC.

 after testing for 2 songs, with plug in and out for 10 times maybe(inter-change for 5 times),i found that the IBasso combination(DAC+AMP) is much more superior than Maranzt CDP(built-in DAC and AMP). the high & low frequency extension sound nicer, and soundstage wider with better transparency and seperation, it is a very significant improvement from 5001, the feeling of it is so nice and i felt that it might have the chances to be par with Zhaolu or rather better than Zhaolu(this is the MIGHT). i felt that the feeling of it is rather similar with same DAC(CS4398), the vocal is so sweet. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 , forgot to meantion, the phones to measures is PK1(sound extremely superb),Mylar2.

 sooner later, i will have the chances to place the D1 on my desk for comparison as i have booked one from iBasso. i was happy and satisfied with the sound of D1 as the sound is really good for the combination, with RM800+- for the sound, i felt it is good and satisfied, as it is portable and be able to used it in everywhere,every computer and act as portable amp._


----------



## lmfboy01

hi,
 some brief thoughts for the usb dac's of both the Move and D1. I find myself using the D1 more and more. The sound is suberb as to comparing it to my laptop. Since i don't really listen to the types of musics y'all tend to listen to and use as a refernce point, i listened to some Infected Mushroom. No vocals but a lot of electronica. One good song was Deeply Disturbed, a very good song IMO. Well the with the D1 it sounds 4-500% better than my onboard soundcard. With the Move, im not sure if i have a bad USB connection or a faulty line somewhere but it seems to be a bit flakey. I think ill give Todd a hollar about that. With the D1, same USB cable/port, its been easy and simple to use. Then going from the D1 dac - Move Amp, im in heaven with my miodded D5000's, PK1's, and E500's.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lmfboy01* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi,
 some brief thoughts for the usb dac's of both the Move and D1. I find myself using the D1 more and more. The sound is suberb as to comparing it to my laptop. Since i don't really listen to the types of musics y'all tend to listen to and use as a refernce point, i listened to some Infected Mushroom. No vocals but a lot of electronica. One good song was Deeply Disturbed, a very good song IMO. Well the with the D1 it sounds 4-500% better than my onboard soundcard. With the Move, im not sure if i have a bad USB connection or a faulty line somewhere but it seems to be a bit flakey. I think ill give Todd a hollar about that. With the D1, same USB cable/port, its been easy and simple to use. Then going from the D1 dac - Move Amp, im in heaven with my miodded D5000's, PK1's, and E500's._

 

Which amp section do you like better, on the MOVE or D1? I'm looking for JUST USB connection.


----------



## Dexdexter

Have to say that the D1 DAC has been a bit of a revelation for me when partnered with my MacBook. I have about 600 reggae & dub albums ripped into Apple Lossless that I've stored on a 500GB NAS drive that I can access remotely from my laptop anywhere in the house.

 So, for example, I can take my MacBook and D1 up to my bedroom, put iTunes on random shuffle and listen for hours on end, without missing my CD player in the least! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've always wanted to try that Squeezebox-like experience of having everything at my fingertips and now it's a reality. Just gotta start ripping my other genres into lossless...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Once the DAC is fully burned-in, I'm really looking forward to trying it in my loudspeaker rig!


----------



## lmfboy01

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which amp section do you like better, on the MOVE or D1? I'm looking for JUST USB connection._

 


 Just USB if it is "transportable", i'd take the D1 BUT if indeed something is wrong with the Move that i have, i cannot make final conclusions. Let me add the battery is a lithium ion based internal battery. i'd estimate it gives about a 15-20 hour use with the Dac/Amp both working and can be used via an AC adaptor that was included. 


 anyways, if you have sdpif out's anywhere, I would seriously consider the D1. I hook it up to my PS3 and watch some dvd's and blu-rays, i really really like it. It takes it another step above from your standard RCA - Mini - Amp IMO. and i am also waiting for my otpcial cable and adapters from that canadien company that i believe Jamato has mentioned eariler. that will be nice to hear from the iRiver H140. 

 sorry i rush when i type, hope this can make sense to y'all!


----------



## jamato8

Yes the optical cable should be a very nice addition. I have used the company for a few years and love the quality in both performance and appearance. I like the purple, violet or gold aluminum connectors (color).


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lmfboy01* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just USB if it is "transportable", i'd take the D1 BUT if indeed something is wrong with the Move that i have, i cannot make final conclusions. Let me add the battery is a lithium ion based internal battery. i'd estimate it gives about a 15-20 hour use with the Dac/Amp both working and can be used via an AC adaptor that was included. 


 anyways, if you have sdpif out's anywhere, I would seriously consider the D1. I hook it up to my PS3 and watch some dvd's and blu-rays, i really really like it. It takes it another step above from your standard RCA - Mini - Amp IMO. and i am also waiting for my otpcial cable and adapters from that canadien company that i believe Jamato has mentioned eariler. that will be nice to hear from the iRiver H140. 

 sorry i rush when i type, hope this can make sense to y'all!_

 

Could you explain why you like the D1 amp better than the MOVE's amp? Bass, mids, highs,...


----------



## lmfboy01

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could you explain why you like the D1 amp better than the MOVE's amp? Bass, mids, highs,..._

 

Hi,
 No i have never said i liked the D1 amp over the Move. Sorry if it was mis-interpreted but to me, the Move has slightly better booming bass. Other than that, i cannot really say much else, due to burn in time and myself not having a proper line-out on my DAP. This is from listening with a Kenwood hd30gb9. 
 I think i was saying from listening through USB, the D1 is overall better. I'm not sure and dont wanna come to any conclusions at the moment... there might be something wrong internally with my Move so until i know for sure, it will be hard for me to say which is better. Right now though, i'm very happy with my D1! now only if it fit in my gigabag... With the Move, Amp only, that makes me happy as well. Fits perfectly in the gigabag and onto my belt clip making it most comfortable.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For additonal optical cables:

 This is the company I use for extremely good optical cables. You can order them with toslink to mini, mini to mini, toslink to toslink and whatever end to end length you want. The fittings are aluminum and the work is excellent. They will also use heat shrink if you request to make a very scecure bond of the optical cable to the connector. It is a good bond to begin with but I wanted/needed something even stronger for my mobile use and they figured out a method of angling the optical out of the connector to give more a a curve. They also have a neat adapter so you can go right angle with the optical. 

 The company is in Canada and they normally ship within a day of the order being placed. 

http://www.sysconcept.ca/product_inf...roducts_id=254_

 

I've ordered a D1 and I've just realised that I'll need an optical cable about 4" long so I can use it with my H140 without having an unwieldy coil. Do SysConcept do that? Their dropdown seems to have a minimum length of 1m. I'm looking for about 0.1m. Does anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## jamato8

When you order in the comments section put the length you want end to end. From that they will make up the length you want. The ends are about 1 inch from where they stick out of the optical socket (the aluminum section). If it is not going to be strait or if it is you might want to ask for it to have shrink tubing putaround the cable as this holds up better and they epoxy the cable also. This is what I have gone to and they hold up great.

 I have about 5 different lengths from very short to a couple of feet in mini to mini and mini to toslink so I have everything covered. You need to state that you need mini to mini or mini to toslink also.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lmfboy01* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,
 No i have never said i liked the D1 amp over the Move. Sorry if it was mis-interpreted but to me, the Move has slightly better booming bass. Other than that, i cannot really say much else, due to burn in time and myself not having a proper line-out on my DAP. This is from listening with a Kenwood hd30gb9. 
 I think i was saying from listening through USB, the D1 is overall better. I'm not sure and dont wanna come to any conclusions at the moment... there might be something wrong internally with my Move so until i know for sure, it will be hard for me to say which is better. Right now though, i'm very happy with my D1! now only if it fit in my gigabag... With the Move, Amp only, that makes me happy as well. Fits perfectly in the gigabag and onto my belt clip making it most comfortable._

 

Well...could you explain what you think about the MOVE and the D1 through USB? Why you think the D1 is better...again bass, mids, highs. I haven't really gotten any feedback on the actual sound quality, but I've only gotten feedback like "better" or "is good." If you could give some details to what you are hearing, that would be great.


----------



## jamato8

Whoa, stop the presses! HiFlight just put some AD8397's in the two buffer positions and liked the sound, to put it mildly. So I soldered up one more 8397 and went for it. Yikes! This ain't your run of the mill good or great amp this is a GREAT AMP! Dynamics, bass slammm, contrasts, depth, width and this is with my ipod earbuds (just kidding on the ipods). With the PortaPros, they are dimensional, open and beautiful sounding, with the HD650, they become the HD700's :^). This is an easy swap, as long as you have the 8397 to plug in but you will be carrying around a home amp/dac in your large pocket. So what I am using is a AD8066 for the opamp section to two 8397's, which is like running mono blocks to your headphones (well sort of).


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whoa, stop the presses! HiFlight just put some AD8397's in the two buffer positions and liked the sound, to put it mildly. So I soldered up one more 8397 and went for it. Yikes! This ain't your run of the mill good or great amp this is a GREAT AMP! Dynamics, bass slammm, contrasts, depth, width and this is with my ipod earbuds (just kidding on the ipods). With the PortaPros, they are dimensional, open and beautiful sounding, with the HD650, they become the HD700's :^). This is an easy swap, as long as you have the 8397 to plug in but you will be carrying around a home amp/dac in your large pocket. So what I am using is a AD8066 for the opamp section to two 8397's, which is like running mono blocks to your headphones (well sort of)._

 

Ugh this sucks that I don't know how to do any of this DIY amp rolling stuff.


----------



## HiFlight

Yes, the D1 with dual AD8397s in the buffer slots is a superb performer. I am using the OPA2111 in the LR opamp socket. I tried the AD8066, AD8599, OPA2134, AD8620, LM4562, OP275 as well as the OPA2111. I liked the 2111 best, but all were quite close, with most of the differences being in how the soundstage was presented. 

 To make it easier to remove the Ad8397 buffers, considering the limited space to grab them, I put a loop of thin nylon thread around them. I can now easily lift them out by locking onto the thread loop with my forceps. 

 Comparing the D1 to my Move, it clearly sounds much more 3-dimensional, with even better bass than the Move. Very impressive. 

 Surprisingly, I doubt that I could reliably and consistantly identify when comparing the modified D1 (in the OPA2111 / 2x AD8397 confituration) and my Reference, if it was a blind comparison with equal inputs. 

 Currently, I would rank my D1 to be about the equal of any amp I have heard. Considering all of the input/output options, and the ability to so effectively tailor the sound signature, this amp is truly a remarkable instrument! 

 With the above configuration, the current draw thru the new devices is about 38ma compared to the stock setup which draws approx 27 ma. 

 I am not sure how this will affect the battery life when using the amp section. It will probably decrease it some, but after all my testing, it only took about 45 minutes to recharge to the green light.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whoa, stop the presses! HiFlight just put some AD8397's in the two buffer positions and liked the sound, to put it mildly. So I soldered up one more 8397 and went for it. Yikes! This ain't your run of the mill good or great amp this is a GREAT AMP! Dynamics, bass slammm, contrasts, depth, width and this is with my ipod earbuds (just kidding on the ipods). With the PortaPros, they are dimensional, open and beautiful sounding, with the HD650, they become the HD700's :^). This is an easy swap, as long as you have the 8397 to plug in but you will be carrying around a home amp/dac in your large pocket. So what I am using is a AD8066 for the opamp section to two 8397's, which is like running mono blocks to your headphones (well sort of)._

 

Are you saying that in this config it even beats the Xin Refernce ?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ugh this sucks that I don't know how to do any of this DIY amp rolling stuff._

 

We all start somewhere. It isn't hard. All you do is open the amp up, look around, become familiar with it notice that the opamps have a notch that corresponds with a notch in the socket and pull the opamps and replace them.

 The 8397's are soic and have to be soldered to adapter boards so there is some soldering that takes some skill.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We all start somewhere. It isn't hard. All you do is open the amp up, look around, become familiar with it notice that the opamps have a notch that corresponds with a notch in the socket and pull the opamps and replace them._

 

You said you had to solder something.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, the D1 with dual AD8397s in the buffer slots is a superb performer. I am using the OPA2111 in the LR opamp socket. I tried the AD8066, AD8599, OPA2134, AD8620, LM4562, OP275 as well as the OPA2111. I liked the 2111 best, but all were quite close, with most of the differences being in how the soundstage was presented. 

 Comparing the D1 to my Move, it clearly sounds much more 3-dimensional, with even better bass than the Move. Very impressive. 

 Surprisingly, I doubt that I could reliably and consistantly identify when comparing the modified D1 (in the OPA2111 / 2x AD8397 confituration) and my Reference, if it was a blind comparison with equal inputs. 

 Currently, I would rank my D1 to be about the equal of any amp I have heard. Considering all of the input/output options, and the ability to so effectively tailor the sound signature, this amp is truly a remarkable instrument! 

 With the above configuration, the current draw thru the new devices is about 38ma compared to the stock setup which draws approx 27 ma. 

 I am not sure how this will affect the battery life when using the amp section. It will probably decrease it some, but after all my testing, it only took about 45 minutes to recharge to the green light._

 

Hi-Flight, how is this compared to the MOVE now bass oomph, mids, everything.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi-Flight, how is this compared to the MOVE now bass oomph, mids, everything._

 

It is clearly superior to the Move in this configuration. Not only in bass, mids, etc, but especially in the 3-dimensional rendering of the soundstage and imaging.

 No soldering is necessary unless you wish to change to higher quality capacitors. It only requires that you unscrew 8 hex screws and one phillips screw, then the amp just slides out of the case. The opamps and buffers are right in front of your eyes on the top side of the circuit board. 

 Rolling opamps ranks about like changing light bulbs in degree of difficulty!


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is clearly superior to the Move in this configuration. Not only in bass, mids, etc, but especially in the 3-dimensional rendering of the soundstage and imaging.

 No soldering is necessary unless you wish to change to higher quality capacitors. It only requires that you unscrew 8 hex screws and one phillips screw, then the amp just slides out of the case. The opamps and buffers are right in front of your eyes on the top side of the circuit board. 

 Rolling opamps ranks about like changing light bulbs in degree of difficulty!_

 

How do the buffers slide out? And is the bass punchier? I know better bass doesn't exactly mean punchier. Also, if you use the OPA2111, you just slide it into place after pulling out the original opamp right?


----------



## Sieg9198

Urghhh,this is just waaay too tempting, still struggling whether to get the D1 or OMZ....


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Urghhh,this is just waaay too tempting, still struggling whether to get the D1 or OMZ...._

 

Why not the MOVE? lol


----------



## yobs

Just pulled the trigger on this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. It sounds like the "combo-box that could". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 [Work PC | Laptop | PS3 | PCDP | Cowon D2] 
 -> iBasso D1 -> [LD MKIII] -> [k501s | um2s | crossroad X3s | bamboos]


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why not the MOVE? lol_

 

Cause I only want a decent DAC right now
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can see you WTB a MOVE, maybe its time for you to reconsider after reading this thread
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 With some easy opamp rolling, you got yourself a MOVE + a better DAC


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whoa, stop the presses! HiFlight just put some AD8397's in the two buffer positions and liked the sound, to put it mildly. So I soldered up one more 8397 and went for it. *Yikes! This ain't your run of the mill good or great amp this is a GREAT AMP!* Dynamics, bass slammm, contrasts, depth, width and this is with my ipod earbuds (just kidding on the ipods). With the PortaPros, they are dimensional, open and beautiful sounding, with the HD650, they become the HD700's :^). This is an easy swap, as long as you have the 8397 to plug in but *you will be carrying around a home amp/dac in your large pocket. *So what I am using is a AD8066 for the opamp section to two 8397's, which is like running mono blocks to your headphones (well sort of)._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Comparing the D1 to my Move, it clearly sounds much more 3-dimensional, with even better bass than the Move. Very impressive. 

*Surprisingly, I doubt that I could reliably and consistantly identify when comparing the modified D1 (in the OPA2111 / 2x AD8397 confituration) and my Reference, if it was a blind comparison with equal inputs. 

 Currently, I would rank my D1 to be about the equal of any amp I have heard. Considering all of the input/output options, and the ability to so effectively tailor the sound signature, this amp is truly a remarkable instrument! * _

 

Wowzer, terribly exciting developments, I'd say, thanks and congrats! Can't wait to give the newly christened *HiFlight D1™* a whirl! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now, to source all them op-amps...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why not the MOVE? lol_

 

Been thinking more about this one, since I've got nothing better to do, lol...

 It's interesting to note that some folks have criticized the D1 for not being able to be powered via USB. Sure, it may represent a slight loss of convenience for some, but with 20 hours of playtime with the on-board batteries, the iBasso should outlast most notebooks a couple times over and perhaps then some.

 And besides, I'm not at all convinced that power drawn from the turbulent and noisy innards of a computer and then passed along essentially the same cable as the audio signal represents the pinnacle of sound quality potential. Imagine the reception that would likely await a manufacturer introducing such a combined mains-cable / interconnect for the sake of convenience...


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Been thinking more about this one, since I've got nothing better to do, lol...

 It's interesting to note that some folks have criticized the D1 for not being able to be powered via USB. Sure, it may represent a slight loss of convenience for some, but with 20 hours of playtime with the on-board batteries, the iBasso should outlast most notebooks a couple times over and perhaps then some.

 And besides, I'm not at all convinced that power drawn from the turbulent and noisy innards of a computer and then passed along essentially the same cable as the audio signal represents the pinnacle of sound quality potential. Imagine the reception that would likely await a manufacturer introducing such a combined mains-cable / interconnect for the sake of convenience..._

 

but until you're able to hear it for yourself, it's pure speculation.....


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rhymesgalore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_but until you're able to hear it for yourself, it's pure speculation..... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Absoutively, but, like I said, I've got nuthin' better to do...


----------



## Sieg9198

Havent seen much comparison about the DAC part of the D1 against other DAC.


 waiting waiting........


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 And although I had asked yuheng to post his demo impressions here as well as on the Malaysian forum, he has yet to do so, so I hope he won't mind me quoting his early thoughts focusing on the D1's DAC capabilities:_

 





 sorry for delay, i was really busy this fews day, thks for helping me quoting on that, i had ordered one D1, wish it come to my house soon. and i read all u guys wrote that D1 modded might on par with XIN, if it is real.....

 i will be superly


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ And besides, I'm not at all convinced that power drawn from the turbulent and noisy innards of a computer and then passed along essentially the same cable as the audio signal represents the pinnacle of sound quality potential. Imagine the reception that would likely await a manufacturer introducing such a combined mains-cable / interconnect for the sake of convenience..._

 

You're still living in the analog world...


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Havent seen much comparison about the DAC part of the D1 against other DAC.


 waiting waiting........_

 

I find it really hard to tell the difference between the 2 DACs, as it is not possible to run the Move DAC thru the D1 whereas one can route the D1 DAC output thru the Move. 

 The differences between them, therefore, are more between amps sections than DAC outputs. 

 I don't think anyone will be disappointed in the DAC in either amp.


----------



## antonyfirst

Ron, do you like the D1's amp more than the Reference?
 How long is battery life with the new configuration? And which of the two amps can reach the highest volume?


----------



## jaspert

Hi Ron,
 Where can you source AD 8397? I have an incoming D1 and a noob at this op amp rolling business.

 cheers,
 jasper


----------



## dissembled

Seems like the D1 is enticing lotsa folks to try their hand at this whole op amp rolling business.
 Including me. :very evil:


----------



## visia

Is there any source for OPA2111? It seems to be out of stock pretty much everywhere.


----------



## nv88

Could some nice soul do a step by step with pictures of switching the OP amps? I'm sure a lot of us noobs would be greatful. I would also like the source and parts numbers to make sure I'm buying the right things.


----------



## cursory

And who here even knows what op amps are? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	














 (I don't either.)


----------



## ehlarson

I've been looking for something like the move, but more versatile for quite a while. I've been considering the Apogee Mini-dac, but wasn't sure whether or not I wanted to spend that kind of cheese, and whether or not to get the firewire or USB version.

 Now look what you've done. A DAC/AMP _portable_ almost as versatile for 1/4 the cost WITH easy mod capabilities and what looks like very nice build quality.

 Looks like a serious winner. I ordered one Sunday. Hope it gets her SOON.


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is clearly superior to the Move in this configuration. Not only in bass, mids, etc, but especially in the 3-dimensional rendering of the soundstage and imaging.

 No soldering is necessary unless you wish to change to higher quality capacitors. It only requires that you unscrew 8 hex screws and one phillips screw, then the amp just slides out of the case. The opamps and buffers are right in front of your eyes on the top side of the circuit board. 

 Rolling opamps ranks about like changing light bulbs in degree of difficulty!_

 

So is soldering necessary or not to use the AD8397 for the buffers?


 Corey


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nv88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could some nice soul do a step by step with pictures of switching the OP amps? I'm sure a lot of us noobs would be greatful. I would also like the source and parts numbers to make sure I'm buying the right things._

 


 I 2nd that


----------



## jamato8

The AD8397 are surface mount devices (smd) in a soic form of chip. They have to be either soldered directly to a printed circuit board (pcb) or to an adapter that will go into a socket on the pcb. The socket takes chips that are in a larger package called a dual in-line package (DIP), but the 8397 only comes in the soic form so you have to solder it to the adapter but they are small and experience in soldering is needed. Brown Dog makes adapters for this purpose.


----------



## kramer5150

Does anyone have sonic impressions with Grados? I have (generally) found HD650-synnergetic amps to sound terrible with the RS1.

 What is the amp gain? Is it low enough for low impedance IEMs?

 thanks in advance


----------



## antonyfirst

Yeah. How does it sound with the ER4P/S?


----------



## Sisyphos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nv88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could some nice soul do a step by step with pictures of switching the OP amps? I'm sure a lot of us noobs would be greatful. I would also like the source and parts numbers to make sure I'm buying the right things._

 

That would really be great.

 I am waiting for a D1 as well and all this op amp rolling stuff is really intriguing but I'm a total noob in this regard.


----------



## mamboman

I am very tempted on the D1... how does it compare with a Move?


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The AD8397 are surface mount devices (smd) in a soic form of chip. They have to be either soldered directly to a printed circuit board (pcb) or to an adapter that will go into a socket on the pcb. The socket takes chips that are in a larger package called a dual in-line package (DIP), but the 8397 only comes in the soic form so you have to solder it to the adapter but they are small and experience in soldering is needed. Brown Dog makes adapters for this purpose._

 

I'm in the UK and I just did a check on the availability of the AD8397 and I see that it is available in two versions - 'SOIC' and 'SOIC-Epad'. Does anyone know what's the difference?

 I was looking at the close-up pics in post #281 of this thread (3rd pic from top). Are the three op amps I see there all soldered in, the buffers on the left (NE5532Ps) and the amplifying op amp on the right (AD823)?

 Am I right in thinking that to change the buffers one can de-solder the NE5532Ps, replace them with Brown Dog adapters, and then plug the new op amps (eg AD8397s) into the adapters?

 Thank you for any advice and help.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kramer5150* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have sonic impressions with Grados? I have (generally) found HD650-synnergetic amps to sound terrible with the RS1.

 What is the amp gain? Is it low enough for low impedance IEMs?

 thanks in advance
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

The amp gain is 6dB


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The AD8397 are surface mount devices (smd) in a soic form of chip. They have to be either soldered directly to a printed circuit board (pcb) or to an adapter that will go into a socket on the pcb. The socket takes chips that are in a larger package called a dual in-line package (DIP), but the 8397 only comes in the soic form so you have to solder it to the adapter but they are small and experience in soldering is needed. Brown Dog makes adapters for this purpose._

 

So with the Brown Dog adapters, no soldering is required?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cause I only want a decent DAC right now
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can see you WTB a MOVE, maybe its time for you to reconsider after reading this thread
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 With some easy opamp rolling, you got yourself a MOVE + a better DAC_

 

I am leaning towards the MOVE because many have explained to me in full detail the sound signature of the two (stock), and the D1 DAC seems to have a back row type of soundstage which I am not looking for, and the MOVE's DAC provides a much smoother midrange. All this opamp rolling will not change how the DAC will sound. Also I won't be running this directly off of my USB port, but with an AC adapter. Of course I haven't heard either myself, but this is the chance I have to take when money is of consequence.

 Of course I'm still teetering back and forth. This choice is so hard. I'm sure whichever one I get, I'll be happy with.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So with the Brown Dog adapters, no soldering is required?_

 

Yes you have to solder the chip onto the adapter


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have 1 hour of burn-in on my D1, and it is not as smooth as my Tomahawk yet, and the bass isn't filled out yet. 

 Gain doesn't seem to be a problem - It will play as loud as the Tomahawk. But, the D1 starts to sound a little-bit fuzzier than the Tomahawk past 50% volume on the iPod nano, while the Tomahawk doesn't get fuzzy till 90% on the iPod. I typically don't listen with the ipod past 40-50%, but sometimes with certain live recordings I'll go up to 80% with the Tomahawk and it "feels" live. I never listen louder than that anyways.

 Doing volume matching, the iPod nano at 90% of full volume direct to headphones without amp sounds very similar to the D1 with the nano plugged in at 50% in terms of quality and volume, so the D1 is NOT making the source sound worse. I only tried this with the Sennheiser PX100 as I was in a rush to get out the door today. I really need to try it with the E500 and Ultrasone HFI700's later.

 I haven't tried a line out or DAC input yet. I plan to check the sound once a day and leave it running while I enjoy the Tomahawk... When my link cables arrive, I'll be using Dock connector line-out from that day on, not headphone out.

 So far, I am NOT unhappy I bought this amp. It does push the boundaries of portable vs the Tomahawk, but I sling a fanny pack over my shoulder to hold my toys and guns, so it'll fit there if needed


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have 1 hour of burn-in on my D1, and it is not as smooth as my Tomahawk yet, and the bass isn't filled out yet. 

 Gain doesn't seem to be a problem - It will play as loud as the Tomahawk. But, *the D1 starts to sound a little-bit fuzzier than the Tomahawk past 50% volume on the iPod nano, while the Tomahawk doesn't get fuzzy till 90% on the iPod.* I typically don't listen with the ipod past 40-50%, but sometimes with certain live recordings I'll go up to 80% with the Tomahawk and it "feels" live. I never listen louder than that anyways._

 

Do you amplify the headphone out?


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find it really hard to tell the difference between the 2 DACs, as it is not possible to run the Move DAC thru the D1 whereas one can route the D1 DAC output thru the Move. 

 The differences between them, therefore, are more between amps sections than DAC outputs. 

 I don't think anyone will be disappointed in the DAC in either amp._

 









 I expected the D1's DAC to be MUCH better than the one in the MOVE...

 Dont tell me the difference between these two are subtle:
 1. MOVE DAC -> MOVE AMP -> headphone
 2. D1 DAC -> D1 AMP(with opamp rolling) -> headphone

 Cause if it is, then I think it means that the D1's DAC arent as good as I expected it to be.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am leaning towards the MOVE because many have explained to me in full detail the sound signature of the two (stock), and the D1 DAC seems to have a back row type of soundstage which I am not looking for, and the MOVE's DAC provides a much smoother midrange. All this opamp rolling will not change how the DAC will sound. Also I won't be running this directly off of my USB port, but with an AC adapter. Of course I haven't heard either myself, but this is the chance I have to take when money is of consequence.

 Of course I'm still teetering back and forth. This choice is so hard. I'm sure whichever one I get, I'll be happy with._

 

If the difference between the two setup I mentioned above IS subtle, then I guess its just the matter of preference.(which maybe the MOVE suits you better)


----------



## kramer5150

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The amp gain is 6dB_

 

OK cool thanks...

 Does it employ some kind of Voltage step-up power supply circuit? +/-1.2V by itself hardly seems like enough to drive the HD650 to appreciable _dynamic _levels. I'm surprised it runs for 40 hours... thats pretty good, although I think some AA cells are up to 3000+ mah capacity.


----------



## visia

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes you have to solder the chip onto the adapter_

 

Now I am confused. AD8066 is also SOIC. Does this mean that it has to be soldered into SOIC8 to DIP8 adaptor first, before it can be inserted into LR opamp slot or DIP sockets are only used for buffers? Can it be just inserted into Brown Dog adaptor without soldering?


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_








 I expected the D1's DAC to be MUCH better than the one in the MOVE...

 Dont tell me the difference between these two are subtle:
 1. MOVE DAC -> MOVE AMP -> headphone
 2. D1 DAC -> D1 AMP(with opamp rolling) -> headphone

 Cause if it is, then I think it means that the D1's DAC arent as good as I expected it to be.

 If the difference between the two setup I mentioned above IS subtle, then I guess its just the matter of preference.(which maybe the MOVE suits you better)_

 

The difference between the move and stock d1 *amp* is not subtle. The move is much more musical, fluid. I find the D1's bass end to be a little too pronounced. I like bass but it can't overpower the mids/highs. The D1 bass overpowers the midrange. For that matter, the move is more musical/fluid than the Hornet M too to give you a frame of reference.

 Actually, the D1 DAC is very nice for some genres (jazz) but I don't like how it puts you back in the 5th row on rock tracks vs the move. The move has you right up front and coupled with its fluidity, it just sounds better to my ears. 

 Now if you claim the D1 amp sounds the best after opamp rolling, please tell us what opamps you are plugging in that specifically outperform move and in what areas. I assume you are a move owner and not making baseless statements, no?


----------



## StevieDvd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm in the UK and I just did a check on the availability of the AD8397 and I see that it is available in two versions - 'SOIC' and 'SOIC-Epad'. Does anyone know what's the difference?

 I was looking at the close-up pics in post #281 of this thread (3rd pic from top). Are the three op amps I see there all soldered in, the buffers on the left (NE5532Ps) and the amplifying op amp on the right (AD823)?

 Am I right in thinking that to change the buffers one can de-solder the NE5532Ps, replace them with Brown Dog adapters, and then plug the new op amps (eg AD8397s) into the adapters?

 Thank you for any advice and help._

 


 Hi,

 I'm in the UK too and interested in a D1 for use at work. From the pics you mention the opamps are all socketed as far as I can see so the only soldering would be to adapt any new opamps into the 8pin dip style.

 Will have to check what opamps I have left over from my Xin Supermacro opamp rolling days.

 Have you received one yet or still waiting, was delivery cost reasonable?

 Steve


----------



## jamato8

""Am I right in thinking that to change the buffers one can de-solder the NE5532Ps, replace them with Brown Dog adapters, and then plug the new op amps (eg AD8397s) into the adapters?""

 The 5532's are dip chips, they are not on an adapter they just pull out of the socket. The 8397 is a smd in a soic package (they are smaller) and need to be soldered onto the Brown Dog or like adapter so they can go into the same sockets that the 5532 were pulled out of. 

 Look at the first page of this thread and you can study the images of the internal structure of the D1 to get an idea of the chip appearances and the 8616 on an adapter and the 5532's which are in the same type of socket but they are in a dip package (chip form). 

 Until you have a few hundred hours on the D1 it is hard to judge the sound of the dac or the amp.


----------



## kramer5150

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I find the D1's bass end to be a little too pronounced. I like bass but it can't overpower the mids/highs. The D1 bass overpowers the midrange. For that matter, the move is more musical/fluid than the Hornet M too to give you a frame of reference.

 Actually, the D1 DAC is very nice for some genres (jazz) but I don't like how it puts you back in the 5th row on rock tracks vs the move. The move has you right up front and coupled with its fluidity, it just sounds better to my ears. _

 

What headphones were these impressions made with? With this signature, it might make a good budget RS1 amp-DAC combo. It might also help to warm/open up a bright IEM.


----------



## zer010gic

How would the D1 sound with just an OPA2111 in place of the AD823 and no changes to the buffers? That way later when I can find some one to solder the AD8397s to the adapters for me I will be set.

 Corey


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kramer5150* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What headphones were these impressions made with? With this signature, it might make a good budget RS1 amp-DAC combo. It might also help to warm/open up a bright IEM._

 

I did my listening last night with Ultrasone Edition 9s. Someone asked me out of the blue to compare them and its all I had handy at the time. If you are curious I could duplicate with HD650s, proline 750s, shure se530 iems, and if you can wait a week for me to receive them, AKG 701s.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How would the D1 sound with just an OPA2111 in place of the AD823 and no changes to the buffers? That way later when I can find some one to solder the AD8397s to the adapters for me I will be set.

 Corey_

 

I will do the adapters for you. PM me if you are interested.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kramer5150* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What headphones were these impressions made with? With this signature, it might make a good budget RS1 amp-DAC combo. It might also help to warm/open up a bright IEM._

 

The headphones I used to evaluate the 2111/8397 combo was:
 Circumaural:
 HD650/Revelation
 AKG 701
 Sony F1 

 IEM:
 Atrio M-5
 PK-1

 They all sounded quite good. My least favorite is the AKG 701. It, to me just doesn't sound as lifelike as the others. I can't really put my finger on why, but all the others sound better to me. The sense of realism is just not there. 

 BTW, this is not just with the D1, but with my other amps as well.
 Once again, there are no absolutes, just personal preferences!


----------



## winnyec

You can do the soldering like this. And you can do it as many times as you want to make sure that there is no shortcut and you haven't melted the whole thing into a toast. When done, plug in.

 But does anyone know a source of opa2111, esp. with no more than 5 min. order (preferably 1), since this is not the cheapest IC ever?

 There was some nagging about it not being strong enough... can it drive a 250Ohm or 600Ohm (yes... BD) can decently?


----------



## jamato8

That is great as long as he pins are not larger than the normal opamp pins or you might spring the contacts in the socket too much and they will be loose for a normal opamp, which has thin pins. 

 It also looks easer to solder than a normal adapter but you have to be careful when you bend the legs on the opamp or you can break them so go slowly.


----------



## globiboulga

I do agree with itsbroken, for me the Move is better than the stock D1. The overall sound is more fluid with the Move and the sense of harmony of the music is very well preserved. 

 And yes if some opamps are bettering the D1 to the level of the Move, I'd love to know which one and then some good man to make a noob amp roll thread with these for me...


----------



## jamato8

How many hours are on the D1 and what type of source?


----------



## globiboulga

The D1 has 100+ hours now. 
 All source are FLAC files 
 Used a pair of Ultrasone Proline 650.


----------



## justhavingfun

I received my D1 yesterday and it's been burning ever since. Of course, I took quick listen here and there and so far it is sounding very good right out of box. I was thinking about purchasing MOVE also just to check it out but once how versatile D1 is, I had to check it out myself. Most likely this little gem will be my office rig for now if I continue to like its sound signature. Once it is probably burnt-in, I like to compare to my Microstack sometime in the future. Although Microstack can run on batteries, I was using them as my desktop usage due to its relatively short battery life before needs recharging. It looks like D1 might be fit the bill nicely where Microstack was lacking (battery life that is). Plus I have bunch of opamps to roll in the near future while waiting for my Supermacro IV and Reference. As I typing this message, Michael Buble is singing beautifully.


----------



## jamato8

The opamp that comes with the D1, the AD823 is a pretty good but some don't like the highs as much, feeling they are a little agressive and others like it. I like the 8066 as I found the sound more to my liking with smoother highs and imo, better integration of the frequency range. I do notice that the D1 with the 8066 as the opamp and the AD8397 as buffers that the sound is very detailed and solid. The sound is closer (more like the 2nd row) than with my Reference and Monica II dac that give me a larger stage and decay. Both units are enjoyable. For me the Reference and Monica are reference and in a high end home system (mine is in storage), Monica II does an excellent job as a dac.

 I notice a slight improvement in sound when running on batteries vs wall wart for the D1.


----------



## globiboulga

Thanks John, 

 I am happy to hear that the rolling does correct the two aspects I don't like with the D1 at the moment: aggressive highs and overall fluidity of the music (when compared to the Move). It looks like I am on the road for rolling... 

 Do you know where I could find a thread with a couple of picture that does explain how to roll amps? I can give it a go myself but having a tutorial would be brilliant to avoid doing something stupid (and I assume there's no soldering involved?)


----------



## jamato8

I will have to look around. Once you see it you will realize how simple it is. Just gently pull one opamp out and make sure the pins match up (not too wide or narrow) to the socket and push in the new opamp. Opamps normally have a little spot or round shiny area to indicate pin one. There is a notch on the socket and the little indicator on the opamp goes toward that notch. You will see the notch at one end of the socket once you pull the opamp. Notice the orientation on this photograph of the D1 board.


----------



## Sisyphos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did my listening last night with Ultrasone Edition 9s. Someone asked me out of the blue to compare them and its all I had handy at the time. If you are curious I could duplicate with HD650s, proline 750s, shure se530 iems, and if you can wait a week for me to receive them, AKG 701s._

 

Could you please do a comparison MOVE / D1 using the HD650?

 I just ordered a D1 assuming it's quite a good match with the HD650 ...


----------



## jamato8

I don't have the Move but right now I am listening to the 650's as I tend to like them better with the D1 than the Equation RP21's, and the sound is big and powerful. The bass is well controlled but not overphowering, and this is while listening to Dire Straits, which has ample bass. I listen about 1 oclock for loud. Anything past his and it is too loud but no distortion. I turned it up to the 4 oclock , partially off my head, and the sound is still clean with no distortion. I have tried this with different opamp configurations and the D1 holds up with plenty of power.


----------



## globiboulga

Thanks for your help on this...

 Would that be the famous 8066 opamp?
http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/I...+Module+AD8066

 Is that all I need to buy?
 The buffer you mention is the stock one, I assume.

 And I just need to plug that one in instead of the other, right? Being mindful of the orientation of course...

 Cheers


----------



## jamato8

They aren't cheap are they? I don't know the conversion to US dollars, I guess I should look it up. Yes that is the opamp. I am using the AD8397's in the buffers postions but I liked the AD8066 with the stock buffers as well. HiFlight likes the 2111 also and seems to prefer it a little to the 8066 as in the last bit of refinement.


 Interesting: I am using the HD650, which I haven't been using too much lately because they are not closed and the person sitting across from me here at home doesn't want to hear the music. I don't blame her but I have listened off and on with them, when she is gone and today I let it run much of the day with them. The sound has changed over the last few hours and I wonder if it is the amp pushing a different load that may be making some positive changes as the sound has gotten a little more open and the bass is very solid. I go back to my Reference and Monica to compare to and not just my ears as they may or may not be adjusting to the sound. It is always good to have a reference point.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sisyphos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could you please do a comparison MOVE / D1 using the HD650?

 I just ordered a D1 assuming it's quite a good match with the HD650 ..._

 

Sure will. It won't be until tomorrow night as I need to hit the magic 150 hours.


----------



## Sisyphos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't have the Move but right now I am listening to the 650's as I tend to like them better with the D1 than the Equation RP21's, and the sound is big and powerful. The bass is well controlled but not overphowering, and this is while listening to Dire Straits, which has ample bass. I listen about 1 oclock for loud. Anything past his and it is too loud but no distortion. I turned it up to the 4 oclock , partially off my head, and the sound is still clean with no distortion. I have tried this with different opamp configurations and the D1 holds up with plenty of power._

 

Thanks for your promising impressions. Dire Straits rock! 'On every street' was the second CD I ever bought (fifteen years ago) and I have liked them a lot since then ... and now I know that their first two albums are even better.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_




_

 

Looking at this photo, I'm having difficulty picturing how the two AD8397s on the adapters can both fit into those buffer sockets-- they seem extremely close together as it is and aren't the Brown Dogs rather larger than the NE5532s (as the AD823 is here)?

 John or Ron, could either of you post a photo with the AD8397s in place?

 Thanks!


----------



## Sisyphos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure will. It won't be until tomorrow night as I need to hit the magic 150 hours._

 

Thank you, I'm really curious ...


----------



## globiboulga

Agreed. My reference point is the Move at the moment, and I have to say, without direct comparison, I would not have noticed some of the D1 'flaws' that easily. And I am mindful of the fact that a reference is the sound I like rather than some kind of objective point when it comes to good amps... This said, the Move is bloody brilliant...


----------



## souperman

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Semiconduc...equestid=76057

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Semiconduc...sp?sku=96K4522

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Semiconduc...sp?sku=19M8882

 Are those the right ones to get? Also where can I get the brown dog adapters if I end up with a D1? And I need two of the AD8066 one's right? Thanks a lot.


----------



## mrarroyo

I really hate this place. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I finally gave in and ordered one.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.newark.com/jsp/Semiconduc...equestid=76057

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Semiconduc...sp?sku=96K4522

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Semiconduc...sp?sku=19M8882

 Are those the right ones to get? Also where can I get the brown dog adapters if I end up with a D1? And I need two of the AD8066 one's right? Thanks a lot._

 

Here is where you can get the Browndogs: 
http://www.cimarrontechnology.com/in...PROD&ProdID=12

 Yes it is tight, but they fit. Just about touching. I put a loop of thread around each one so I can lift them out. 

 You only need one AD8066, as they are dual-channel. The D1 uses dual channel buffers, which is different than many of the other portable amps. That limits the buffer selection slightly, but it is hard for me to imagine a better choice than the AD8397 from the standpoint of output power, and current drain. It is also very low noise with excellent square-wave response. 

 I am preferring the OPA2111 over the 8066 as I think the high end is rendered a bit more accurately. The drawback is that it is quite expensive and hard to find.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_John or Ron, could either of you post a photo with the AD8397s in place?

 Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes could either of you do that please? Aren't there two places for buffers? Why would you only need one? Sorry I'm a noob at this. I see there are two NE5532's in place. Also aren't the OPA2111's there at Newark where I listed it?


----------



## jamato8

You need two AD8397's. They go in place of the NE5532.

 Find some headphones that are harder to drive and crank it up with the D1. this is not a listening level but above that to really make the amp work. I found out today this had some positive effects on the D1.


----------



## cooperpwc

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also aren't the OPA2111's there at Newark where I listed it?_

 

On order - with a lead time of 201 days or less. Apparently they are hard to come by.


----------



## globiboulga

I am quite confused now...

 So, let me try to get some clarifications here:
 If I want to roll amp with the 8066

 - I need to replace the stock opamp with the 8066
 AND
 - I need two AD8397 to replace the NE5532

 Is that correct?
 Can I just replace the 8066 by itself or that won't make any significant SQ changes?

 Can't find the 2111.. Seems hard to get indeed.


----------



## jamato8

You don't have to change the 5532's just the 8066. If you want to you can change the two output buffers or not. I don't think there is a huge difference in changing the 8066 but for me, it is in the right direction.


----------



## globiboulga

Ok sounds good. Thanks a lot...

 Wrong use of the word significant in my post... I wanted to know whether the buffers/opamp combo change would lead to a bigger SQ change than just the opamp change by itself... I am NOT expecting a radical SQ change by rolling, just enough to sweeten the highs, clarify the bass and provide a better sound fluidity. As you say, a move in the right direction rather than a revolution.

 I really appreciate your help on this. Thanks a lot.


----------



## visia

I just found that DIP-socket mounted AD8397 actually came as stock opamps with my SuperMini. Can somebody post the pic of the AD8397 in D1 or explain how to figure out in which orientations they are supposed to go in? Is the dot on the NE5532 buffer on the pic above represent pin 1?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok sounds good. Thanks a lot...

 Wrong use of the word significant in my post... I wanted to know whether the buffers/opamp combo change would lead to a bigger SQ change than just the opamp change by itself... I am NOT expecting a radical SQ change by rolling, just enough to sweeten the highs, clarify the bass and provide a better sound fluidity. As you say, a move in the right direction rather than a revolution.

 I really appreciate your help on this. Thanks a lot._

 

I found that just changing the LR opamp made some change, but not a great one, with some opamps sounding a bit better than others. After changing the buffers to the AD8397s and replacing the opamp with the OPA2111, the difference was astounding. The buffers make MUCH difference. The sound was also very good with the AD8599 and AD8620. The 8066 has excellent imaging and soundstage, similar to the OPA2111, but the highs are not quite as smooth and detailed. (to my ears!) The highly regarded LM4562 just didn't sound as full and musical as the others. It was probably my least favorite, and should, according to the specs, be one of the best. I also found this to be the case when I tried it in my Xin LE.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cooperpwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On order - with a lead time of 201 days or less. Apparently they are hard to come by._

 

I can make up some OPA2111 or AD8066/AD8397 sets, if folks find it difficult to locate their own. I don't really want it to become a full-time job though!


----------



## visia

Ron,
 Which one is your favorite with AD8397s after OPA2111? Do you prefer AD8620 or AD8066?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found that just changing the LR opamp made some change, but not a great one, with some opamps sounding a bit better than others. After changing the buffers to the AD8397s and replacing the opamp with the OPA2111, the difference was astounding. The buffers make MUCH difference. The sound was also very good with the AD8599 and AD8620. The 8066 has excellent imaging and soundstage, similar to the OPA2111, but the highs are not quite as smooth and detailed. (to my ears!) The highly regarded LM4562 just didn't sound as full and musical as the others. It was probably my least favorite, and should, according to the specs, be one of the best. I also found this to be the case when I tried it in my Xin LE._


----------



## HiFlight

Quite close, but overall probably the AD8599. Followed by the 8066. I think the 2111 just provides an exquisite sense of realism. For that reason, I put it #1. IMHO, the AD8397 buffers bring out the best in all the opamps I tried. I would guess that most folks would be happy with any of the opamps that I listed in my trials. I still have some different ones yet on the way, but I would be surprised if they will better the present configuration.


----------



## globiboulga

Is changing the buffer a simple operation, as for the opamp (pull them out and then place the new ones in)?


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The difference between the move and stock d1 *amp* is not subtle. The move is much more musical, fluid. I find the D1's bass end to be a little too pronounced. I like bass but it can't overpower the mids/highs. The D1 bass overpowers the midrange. For that matter, the move is more musical/fluid than the Hornet M too to give you a frame of reference.

 Actually, the D1 DAC is very nice for some genres (jazz) but I don't like how it puts you back in the 5th row on rock tracks vs the move. The move has you right up front and coupled with its fluidity, it just sounds better to my ears. 

 Now if you claim the D1 amp sounds the best after opamp rolling, please tell us what opamps you are plugging in that specifically outperform move and in what areas. I assume you are a move owner and not making baseless statements, no?_

 

Note: I dont own neither the D1 nor the MOVE.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 I'm more concerned with the DAC part of both the amps actually, thats why I ask about the two setup. It's clear that the *stock* D1's amp is inferior to the MOVE's amp, I dont know if opamp rolling on the D1 amp can help it to "outperform" the MOVE amp, but from all the replies I'm sure it can shrink the gap between them.

 After that, (which I think)the DAC part comes into play, IF the D1's DAC is significantly better than the one in the MOVE, it should sound better than the MOVE.(as source plays a big part in the sound)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 my 0.02


----------



## visia

Thanks! Looks like AD8066 it is, as soon as I figure out how to solder it inot the adaptor.


----------



## HiFlight

I think after the changes in devices, the D1 DOES sound better than the Move, with or withuut the DACs being used. The one thing that I didn't think to mention previously is that the D1s sound is just as rich and detailed at low volume levels as it is at higher listening levels. This is not often the case with most amplifiers. The bass impact and detail is not at all sacrificed by lowering the volume level. 

 The downside is that any deficiencies in the upstream source or the recording itself are glaringly apparent!


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is changing the buffer a simple operation, as for the opamp (pull them out and then place the new ones in)?_

 

Yes.

 One thing I noticed is that the D1 uses the new solder that has no lead. This solder is harder and takes a higher temp to melt and use and also, in my experience, takes longer to break in. Now for those who do not believe in break in/ burn in I can't help you but what I found out is that solder as part of the circuit can be a resistant agent and it can harbor other issues. I desoldered some caps and it was difficult to get the solder to flow until I combined it with some of my Cardas solder and it was still more difficult than normal. What this tells me is that for the number of solder points this dac/amp will take some time to continue to form. As I mentioned earlier today i pushed it hard today and noticed positive effects. When changing out opamps you don't have to worry about the solder on the board as you will not be doing anything with it.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think after the changes in devices, the D1 DOES sound better than the Move, with or withuut the DACs being used._

 

I wish more people could try this out and give their opinion. Ron, could you go into more detail on what you think the D1 out does the MOVE?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Note: I dont own neither the D1 nor the MOVE.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




... 

 It's clear that the *stock* D1's amp is inferior to the MOVE's amp..._

 

Hmmm, I must have missed something. I think the only thing that's clear to me at this point is that only maybe a handful of folks have heard a fully burned-in and fully-formed D1, and even fewer (1?) have conducted any direct comparisons with the Move, so I've yet to read anything approaching a conclusive impression. So I think the jury's still out on this one.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, I must have missed something. I think the only thing that's clear to me at this point is that only maybe a handful of folks have heard a fully burned-in and fully-formed D1, and even fewer (1?) have conducted any direct comparisons with the Move, so I've yet to read anything approaching a conclusive impression. So I think the jury's still out on this one._

 

I bet they are actually not that different, but it's just head-fi business to make subtleties into exaggerations 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## globiboulga

Yes it is!!!!
 You tend to get more attentive than you should be 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 For my taste (and I own both), the stock move is better than the stock D1, and if I had to give one up, that would be the D1. This said, I am quite excited to try the 8066 in it and see if they get closer... 

 It is clear that we're in a space where personal tastes come into play quite heavily and where the sound signatures are becoming important.

 So maybe it'd be better to say that I prefer the Move's sound signature... Integrated, smoother and less harch on the highs and slightly less punchy/muddy on the bass.


----------



## bonkon

Souperman, here one more choice to confuse even more.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Which one to get?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What do you guys think of this amp/dac based on the specs? It certainly is cheaper and smaller than the move or D1.


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bonkon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Souperman, here one more choice to confuse even more.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Which one to get?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What do you guys think of this amp/dac based on the specs? It certainly is cheaper and smaller than the move or D1._

 

Sizewise it's really nice.

 And since we talk about size:
 Earlier that day I did a comparison between the size of the D1, the Move, the Hornet and the Tomahawk to get a feeling for the different sizes:




 You can choose different views here:
http://www.sizeasy.com/page/size_com...s-RSA-Tomahawk
_(A very cool site actually. You can compare your own items and even add everyday things like a deck of cards)_

 I wasn't aware before, that the D1 is that big. It's ok as a transportable, but the Move is already as big as i want a real portable amp to be. (But not to forget the optical/coaxial ins on the D1)

_(PS: I made a new one which includes the UHA-3 as well. Really small for a portable with USB-DAC 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



http://www.sizeasy.com/page/size_com...s-RSA-Tomahawk)_


----------



## Dexdexter

What a swell tool that Sizewise is, rg! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's a shame they haven't yet launched their sister-site, Soundwize, which would conclusively lay to rest any debates about sound-quality comparisons between headphones, amplifiers, DACs, etc.! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (But, then again, we'd have no more reason to be here...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


----------



## elnero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rhymesgalore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_(PS: I made a new one which includes the UHA-3 as well. Really small for a portable with USB-DAC 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



http://www.sizeasy.com/page/size_com...s-RSA-Tomahawk)_

 

If you want small you guys should be checking out some of the latest meet impression threads, Justin from HeadAmp has been taking his prototype Pico USB DAC/Amp combo around. It's as small or smaller than a Tomahawk and from some experienced members impressions, performance approaching the likes of the Apogee Mini-Dac.


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elnero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you want small you guys should be checking out some of the latest meet impression threads, Justin from HeadAmp has been taking his prototype Pico USB DAC/Amp combo around. It's as small or smaller than a Tomahawk and from some experienced members impressions, performance approaching the likes of the Apogee Mini-Dac._

 

You're not kidding. That thing is tiny! I am definitely looking forward for its release.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elnero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you want small you guys should be checking out some of the latest meet impression threads, Justin from HeadAmp has been taking his prototype Pico USB DAC/Amp combo around. It's as small or smaller than a Tomahawk and from some experienced members impressions, performance approaching the likes of the Apogee Mini-Dac._

 

Yes, I wonder how long we'll have to wait for that? Although it will be twice the price of the D1 and it won't have optical or Spdif inputs.


----------



## recephasan

Got mine yesterday. Ordered 8/17

 So far so good, but needs breaking in


----------



## elnero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I wonder how long we'll have to wait for that? Although it will be twice the price of the D1 and it won't have optical or Spdif inputs._

 

Estimated release is fall, I'm expecting in about a month or two.

 There is talk of a larger version planned for release later. From my understanding it will be essentially the same DAC/Amp as the Pico but more the size and functionality of the AE-2, the DAC section will be battery powered with USB and Coax and/or Optical inputs. I have no idea on pricing though.


----------



## zer010gic

Well I am using mine for the first time now and am wondering if others are experiencing power on/off thump? Also is the hiss/hum at high volumes with no input normal?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wish more people could try this out and give their opinion. Ron, could you go into more detail on what you think the D1 out does the MOVE?_

 

It is my feeling that the soundfield is much more 3-dimensional as rendered from the D1 with the OPA2111/AD8397 combo compared to the Move.

 As each channel can output well over 300ma (max) there is headroom to spare, and the output seems effortless, regardless of which phones I am using. 

 I prefer a soundfield that is in front of me, as I do not sit in the middle of the orchestra when attending a live performance. Some prefer a more enveloping and surrounding soundfield. 

 I do not maintain that this is the ultimate opamp/buffer configuration (or amp!) for everyone. It is, all things considered, my preference so far. YMMV!!!!


----------



## jaspert

Got mine today too.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have noticed the on off thump 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 too and probably same hiss when the iPod video dock line out is plugged in with the playback paused and the volume knob turned pass 1 o'clock.


----------



## nv88

I got my D1 last night. I get a big POP when the power is turned on, even if volume is all the way down.

 Has your charge light turned green yet? Mine was plugged in, turned on all night and I've still got the orange-red blinking... The blue light in front seems to randomly turn on and off too.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is my feeling that the soundfield is much more 3-dimensional as rendered from the D1 with the OPA2111/AD8397 combo compared to the Move.

 As each channel can output well over 300ma (max) there is headroom to spare, and the output seems effortless, regardless of which phones I am using. 

 I prefer a soundfield that is in front of me, as I do not sit in the middle of the orchestra when attending a live performance. Some prefer a more enveloping and surrounding soundfield. 

 I do not maintain that this is the ultimate opamp/buffer configuration (or amp!) for everyone. It is, all things considered, my preference so far. YMMV!!!!_

 

What about the bass and mids? Does it have more impact as usual, but less muddy?


----------



## jamato8

The D1 does have a thump when turned on. iBasso stated that due to the way the unit uses the fron aux input as a multiple type that there wasn't a way around it. I don't find it to be a problem but not always fun for the ears but I normally don't have the headphone/IEM's on when turning it on and off. As far as hiss, the volume would be so loud that I couldn't listen to it so I don't see the point but I can barely hear any on mine.


----------



## Dexdexter

I always plug my headphones into the D1 after I've switched it on, and remove them before I switch it off. It became force of habit for me from using my CanAmp, which also thumps a bit on power-up.


----------



## robster

Howdy- Say if I were to hook up a iRiver H120 to the iBasso D1 using optical out and then my portable headphones I'm set. 

 But what if I want to use the H120 connected via optical out to iBasso D1 and then out to my home stereo,is there a way to defeat the D1's amp and only use the dac section? 

 Thanks,
 Robert


----------



## jamato8

Yes, just use the AUX out and you are using just the dac. Or you can use the AUX as input and use only the amp section. Your choice as it automatically senses if there is an input or output. :^)

 I am listening this AM and I am hearing changes. The sound is More smooth and dimensional. I know this solder that is being used (junk but what is available now) takes longer to form. I remember some silver IC's that would take large currents and a long time to form but up to that point they sounded harsh and bright. I discovered on my own to use dead soft high purity silver back in the early 90's and solved the problem but this new solder, yeck. I am glad I have a good suppy of Cardas and Ultra Clear. 

 I know Xin is having problems with the new junk as even measurements are off with just the change in solder.


----------



## souperman

Yes, you just connect it through the AUX in/out in the front.


----------



## robster

Thanks.. Now I just need to buy a H140 or 120 iBasso D1 so I can A/B it with my Imod. 

 Cheers,
 Robert


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am listening this AM and I am hearing changes. The sound is More smooth and dimensional. I know this solder that is being used (junk but what is available now) takes longer to form._

 

How many hours do you have on your amp now?


----------



## jamato8

I don't know, I will have to figure it up but I would guess approaching 300 or so. Remember i am using the 8066 and two of the 8397's.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *robster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks.. Now I just need to buy a H140 or 120 iBasso D1 so I can A/B it with my Imod. 

 Cheers,
 Robert_

 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3234118

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ype=osi_widget


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know, I will have to figure it up but I would guess approaching 300 or so. Remember i am using the 8066 and two of the 8397's._

 

Right, I just want to figure out when I'll get the true stock flavor out of it if it is still changing. Thanks for the info!

 EDIT: I just remembered I have a pair of op627 browndogs not used anymore from my CDP. Do you know if one would be pin-compatible? Where would I go to find out this type of information? I realize the buffers need changing still.


----------



## jamato8

No, the 627 is a single opamp and also draws a lot of current, don't try to use it.

 I don't know what happened to the D1 over night but it must be what Ron is hearing. I still don't know where it will end up but the direction right now is very good. 

 I have no idea where the bass has come from. It is better than what I thought was already very good. It doens't bleed into the other frequencies but stays where it should and has notes, not just bass. I hope everyone gets to hear this. The soundstage has expanded, way out as in distance between instruments and so forth, it is just more dimensional. The upper range has improved also. I can feel tuneful bass into my shoulders. This is at the 10 oclock position with the RP-21's, which I wasn't enjoying as much with the D1. They sound very open for a closed headphone. 

 Again the caveat: I have no idea of the final sound.

 I have the Ultrasone 750's coming tomorrow. They should add a nice new dimension to my listening.


----------



## jonesy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nv88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got my D1 last night. I get a big POP when the power is turned on, even if volume is all the way down.

 Has your charge light turned green yet? Mine was plugged in, turned on all night and I've still got the orange-red blinking... The blue light in front seems to randomly turn on and off too._

 

Just got mine (two days to Sweden!) and am also having problems with the front blue led. It seems to go on and off at random. However, my charge light turned green almost straight away which made me a bit suspicious. Anyway, I've emailed ibasso to try and find the problem. I hope I don't have to send it back - I love it!

 Jonesy


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jonesy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got mine (two days to Sweden!) and am also having problems with the front blue led. It seems to go on and off at random. However, my charge light turned green almost straight away which made me a bit suspicious. Anyway, I've emailed ibasso to try and find the problem. I hope I don't have to send it back - I love it!

 Jonesy_

 

It could have come with a charge, mine did. I hope it isn't a problem with power switch. Does it play when the light goes out or does the sound stop?


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, the 627 is a single opamp and also draws a lot of current, don't try to use it.

 I don't know what happened to the D1 over night but it must be what Ron is hearing. I still don't know where it will end up but the direction right now is very good. 

 I have no idea where the bass has come from. It is better than what I thought was already very good. It doens't bleed into the other frequencies but stays where it should and has notes, not just bass. I hope everyone gets to hear this. The soundstage has expanded, way out as in distance between instruments and so forth, it is just more dimensional. The upper range has improved also. I can feel tuneful bass into my shoulders. This is at the 10 oclock position with the RP-21's, which I wasn't enjoying as much with the D1. They sound very open for a closed headphone. 

 Again the caveat: I have no idea of the final sound.

 I have the Ultrasone 750's coming tomorrow. They should add a nice new dimension to my listening._

 

Glad I asked about the 627. The current would have hurt. The browndog actually has two chips soldered on; does that mean they are stacking them or that they have them wired for two channel?

 If the bass is clearing up too that would be a bonus. Without searching the thread, are you running stock or rolling opamps too? How many hours are you up to on the D1?

 Once you get your proline 750s we'll have a common frame of reference at least. Hope you enjoy them as much as I do.


----------



## jonesy

Thanks for responding so soon - I'm not a regular poster...

 The unit carries on playing fine. the blue led stays on for a few minutes then goes off then back on for a while. I am burning in at the moment - there's no change in configuration that coincides with the blue led on/off.


----------



## jonesy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It could have come with a charge, mine did. I hope it isn't a problem with power switch. Does it play when the light goes out or does the sound stop?_

 


 Oops, sorry - forgot to reference my post - slapped wrists.....

 I would like to add that it's great to be described as a "junior member" though, at my age!


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Glad I asked about the 627. The current would have hurt. The browndog actually has two chips soldered on; does that mean they are stacking them or that they have them wired for two channel?

 If the bass is clearing up too that would be a bonus. Without searching the thread, are you running stock or rolling opamps too? How many hours are you up to on the D1?

 Once you get your proline 750s we'll have a common frame of reference at least. Hope you enjoy them as much as I do._

 


 I have the AD8066 in as the dual opamp and AD8397's as the two output buffers. Ron really likes the OPA2111 in the opamp postion. I hope to hear this soon and I don't doubt his ears. 

 Yes if your 627's are on the BD adapter that has one on top and one underneath then it is now a dual but it will have some current draw.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the AD8066 in as the dual opamp and AD8397's as the two output buffers. 

 Yes if your 627's are on the BD adapter that has one on top and one underneath then it is now a dual but it will have some current draw._

 

Thanks for the info; I'll tuck those 627s away for some other project.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jonesy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The unit carries on playing fine. the blue led stays on for a few minutes then goes off then back on for a while. I am burning in at the moment - there's no change in configuration that coincides with the blue led on/off._

 

Until you hear back from iBasso, maybe try leaving the unit connected to the AC adapter and see if the blinking doesn't somehow resolve itself.


----------



## jonesy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Until you hear back from iBasso, maybe try leaving the unit connected to the AC adapter and see if the blinking doesn't somehow resolve itself._

 

Thanks. Actually I thought I might try to run down the batteries and see if there's any change if I start from scratch. It isn't exactly blinking, by the way - more like 10, 20 minutes at a time - most strange.


----------



## winnyec

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info; I'll tuck those 627s away for some other project._

 

Meanwhile I tried to look up the official characteristics, and it seems it shoud add about the same extra current usage as the two NE5532->AD8397 change.


----------



## Sisyphos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the AD8066 in as the dual opamp and AD8397's as the two output buffers. Ron really likes the OPA2111 in the opamp postion. I hope to hear this soon and I don't doubt his ears. 

 Yes if your 627's are on the BD adapter that has one on top and one underneath then it is now a dual but it will have some current draw._

 

I am still waiting for my D1 to arrive but meanwhile I am trying to follow the opamp rolling discussion but that's getting harder.
 So please let me try to clarify this to myself:

 1. To change the stock AD823 there is no soldering required. You just pull it out and put in an AD8066 (as jamato did) or an OPA2111 (as Ron did), right? 

 2. If you like either of them you can just leave in the NE5532 buffers, right?

 3. But if you want to change the buffers (preferably?) you pull out the two NE5532s and put in two AD8397s - they work with the AD8066 as well as with the OPA2111 and there is no soldering necessary, yes?

 Hope someone can clarify this because I don't know anything about electronics - I just want to get the best D1 sound ...


----------



## jamato8

I have around 325 hours on the D1 now and it is opening up nicely, surprisingly so. All areas are improving, much to my delight. I am using the HD650 right now at around 1 oclock, with more than enough volume, maybe a tad too much but it does drive the phones effortlessly. Jackson Browne "sole acoustic", throws excellent depth, with the audience at a normal and pleasing distance. Everything is in front and to the sides rather than all in my head and around and behind me. Notes have good acoustical resonance and the body of the guitar is well represented. 

 I assume from the way this thing is going that forming of the dac/amp could take 400 plus hours, which doesn't seem unusual any more. 

 AD8066 > 2 AD8397's. The change in opamps and buffers is not subtle. I would think as the stock opamp and buffers burn-in, there would be some good positive changes as well.


----------



## winnyec

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sisyphos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am still waiting for my D1 to arrive but meanwhile I am trying to follow the opamp rolling discussion but that's getting harder.
 So please let me try to clarify this to myself:

 1. To change the stock AD823 there is no soldering required. You just pull it out and put in an AD8066 (as jamato did) or an OPA2111 (as Ron did), right? 

 2. If you like either of them you can just leave in the NE5532 buffers, right?

 3. But if you want to change the buffers (preferably?) you pull out the two NE5532s and put in two AD8397s - they work with the AD8066 as well as with the OPA2111 and there is no soldering necessary, yes?

 Hope someone can clarify this because I don't know anything about electronics - I just want to get the best D1 sound ..._

 


 AD8066 and AD8397 are not available in DIP8, only in SOIC8 so they require soldering, but you can get away with the OPA2111 without soldering if you can find one somewhere.


----------



## jaspert

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jonesy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got mine (two days to Sweden!) and am also having problems with the front blue led. It seems to go on and off at random. However, my charge light turned green almost straight away which made me a bit suspicious. Anyway, I've emailed ibasso to try and find the problem. I hope I don't have to send it back - I love it!

 Jonesy_

 

Mine came with the battery charged and the front blue LED does not flicker during use.
 The charge light turned green after more than an hour or two. 
 I love mine too and i hope you don't have to send it back.


----------



## Sisyphos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *winnyec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_AD8066 and AD8397 are not available in DIP8, only in SOIC8 so they require soldering, but you can get away with the OPA2111 without soldering if you can find one somewhere._

 

Thank you. So if OPA2111 is really this hard to find at the moment is there any other DIP8 op amp that's an improvement over the stock op amp?


----------



## jamato8

The way my D1 is settling in, even though it is not now stock, I would just wait with the stock version and hunt around when you get a different set of opamps then try them. Mine made a jump today, why I am not sure but at 325 hours plus the sound is extremely enjoyable.


 I don't think I like this place any longer. I just ordered an iRiver 120 from Ebay. Optical out and in yada, yada and more drain to my wallet. The iRiver and the D1 or Monica II and Reference hopefully will make a nice sounding package.

 Does the iRiver 120 work with Mac? and what is Rock Box?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sisyphos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am still waiting for my D1 to arrive but meanwhile I am trying to follow the opamp rolling discussion but that's getting harder.
 So please let me try to clarify this to myself:

 1. To change the stock AD823 there is no soldering required. You just pull it out and put in an AD8066 (as jamato did) or an OPA2111 (as Ron did), right? 

 2. If you like either of them you can just leave in the NE5532 buffers, right?

 3. But if you want to change the buffers (preferably?) you pull out the two NE5532s and put in two AD8397s - they work with the AD8066 as well as with the OPA2111 and there is no soldering necessary, yes?

 Hope someone can clarify this because I don't know anything about electronics - I just want to get the best D1 sound ..._

 



 EXACTLY RIGHT!!!!!!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sisyphos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you. So if OPA2111 is really this hard to find at the moment is there any other DIP8 op amp that's an improvement over the stock op amp?_

 

Try the OPA2107. It sounds good also. Similar to the 2111. I don't know the availability of them, but had a couple on hand. You could also try the OP2134 and AD275. They are also PDIP. 

 For some reason, the OPA2111 paired with the AD8397 buffers really rocks in this amp! The AD8397 did not work nearly as well in the LR opamp position as it does working as dual buffers.


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The way my D1 is settling in, even though it is not now stock, I would just wait with the stock version and hunt around when you get a different set of opamps then try them. Mine made a jump today, why I am not sure but at 325 hours plus the sound is extremely enjoyable.


 I don't think I like this place any longer. I just ordered an iRiver 120 from Ebay. Optical out and in yada, yada and more drain to my wallet. The iRiver and the D1 or Monica II and Reference hopefully will make a nice sounding package.

 Does the iRiver 120 work with Mac? and what is Rock Box?_

 

If I'm not mistaken(not sure though), Rockbox is a firmware that gives you more option with your iRiver 120.(something like EQ, crossfeed, and more audio file format etc)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I can already hear a big change in 38 hours of burn in. It is smoother and much less gritty to my ears. I started burn-in 10am yesterday, and then didn't listen for another 12 hours, at which time it needed more time. I've been listening for 2 hours tonight and it definitely is better.

 Interestingly, the new ER6i that I tried with the Tomahawk and D1, which sounded raspy with both amps, now sound better after 36 hours of burn-in via the D1. When I first got the ER6i to screw around with, Diana Krall's piano drilled painful holes in my brain.

 I was told balanced armature earphones didn't need burn-in, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Even with the 700 hour Tomahawk the ER6i sound improved with some mileage on them, so the improvement isn't from changes in the AMP.


----------



## globiboulga

Yes, RockBox (rockbox.org) is an alternative firmware for several mp3 players that provide a whole lot of new options... Most popular are crossfeed, gapless, additional codecs supports... Sometimes games...

 Have a look. I used it on my Cowon X5 and it's brilliant.


----------



## souperman

I ordered my MOVE guys. After so much deliberation. Still, I want to try the D1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. Hopefully someone will let me borrow it.


----------



## jamato8

It's all about the music. Have fun. 

 I can't believe how the bass is shaping up. After 300 hours it is getting more solid and dynamic. I am not one who likes overdone bass in any way, I can't stand it. This bass is just solid and deep. The D1 is controlling the headphones very well.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's all about the music. Have fun. 

 I can't believe how the bass is shaping up. After 300 hours it is getting more solid and dynamic. I am not one who likes overdone bass in any way, I can't stand it. This bass is just solid and deep. The D1 is controlling the headphones very well._

 

Are you speaking of a stock D1? I feel like stock impressions would be very important for many people instead of impressions with new components, at least not yet. Just my thought.


----------



## jamato8

In emailing with iBasso they built the unit to roll opamps. I am referring to the 8066 and 8397 as buffers. 

 Stereophile reviews tube amps all the time. They will often give their impression of the amp as it came and then they will roll some tubes. Sometimes they don't like the stock tubes at all and go right on to different ones feeling that this is still giving a true impression of what the amp is capable of. I would have to agree. They reveiwed a product of mine and made some changes but came back to the original I sent them as the best in actual use. I was fine with what they wanted to do. People are using different headphones, should we all use the same ones? There are also different IC's and these can affect the sound for good or bad. 

 I understand what you are saying but I see nothing wrong with talking about the potential. It is always easy to go back to the original opamps.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In emailing with iBasso they built the unit to roll opamps. I am referring to the 8066 and 8397 as buffers. 

 Stereophile reviews tube amps all the time. They will often give their impression of the amp as it came and then they will roll some tubes. Sometimes they don't like the stock tubes at all and go right on to different ones feeling that this is still giving a true impression of what the amp is capable of. I would have to agree. They reveiwed a product of mine and made some changes but came back to the original I sent them as the best in actual use. I was fine with what they wanted to do. People are using different headphones, should we all use the same ones? There are also different IC's and these can affect the sound for good or bad. 

 I understand what you are saying but I see nothing wrong with talking about the potential. It is always easy to go back to the original opamps._

 

Don't get me wrong, I am in no way discrediting or saying that you shouldn't be talking about the D1 with new components. It's just that for such a new product, a detailed impression of the STOCK unit is essential IMO because that is basically what the opamp rolling will be based off of, and most people who are looking to buy the D1 probably are more concerned with what the D1 will sound like when they get it, and not after they tinker and toy with it. Again, this is just my opinion. It's just that many if not 95% of the impressions are from you and Ron, and they are GREAT impressions. but they are also mostly your impressions after rolling opamps. Hopefully others will speak up and give their opinion on the stock units.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_and what is Rock Box?_

 

Rockbox is great. You need it to play FLACs on you H120, and it will give you crossfeed.


----------



## Skylab

Hey souperman:

 I am getting a review sample of the D1. I will be reviewing it stock only. If your like to review it after me, I know iBasso is fine with that. PM me.


----------



## globiboulga

I am kinda leaning with Soupeman on this one, there should be a thread about the stock unit - and a review there - and thread with the rolling business... That would make it clearer for noobs like me, while leaving the opportunity to roll if wanted. And nothing wrong with having a stock review thread that ends up saying 'with these opamps it's way better - see thread'.

 As I said to Soupeman in a PM, its geeks trying to talk to noobs and while noobs are looking for a sense of security (tell me what is good and not), the geeks are looking the other way around (let's take risks and have fun with it)...

 It's quite funny how this thread can be read on two levels like that. But hey, that's life. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This said, it's quite cool to have John and others opinions... We also learn in the process. Step curve though...


----------



## yuheng

ordered mine today, should get it soon,tempted for it...


----------



## visia

Has anyone tested this? I tried it, but it does not seem to work using ASIO4ALL.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_guys, do this DAC support ASIO?_


----------



## cooperpwc

Here is the prototype Pico from Justin of Headamp referred to above that people I respect (such as n_maher) are so impressed by. If the rumour is true that a larger version with an optical in is in the works, things are getting very interesting for us with the iRiver H140. I'm thinking that the H140 with a good DAC/amp and either the Westone 3 or the UE11 is a future dream rig. 

 D1, "Pico+"... I hope that the options keep coming.


----------



## jamato8

What will be the size and battery capability?


----------



## visia

Also importantly, what would be the price of this thing?


----------



## elnero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cooperpwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here is the prototype Pico from Justin of Headamp referred to above that people I respect (such as n_maher) are so impressed by. If the rumour is true that a larger version with an optical in is in the works, things are getting very interesting for us with the iRiver H140. I'm thinking that the H140 with a good DAC/amp and either the Westone 3 or the UE11 is a future dream rig. 

 D1, "Pico+"... I hope that the options keep coming.









_

 

Yes, very interesting indeed! When I first heard about the Pico I didn't realize the quality and league it was meant to play in, especially the DAC. I've been looking for a portable or at least transportable DAC or DAC/Amp solution but would prefer a more versatile solution that has more input/output options than a USB DAC/amp which had me looking at a Monica2 or D1 for DAC duties. My idea was to use one of those in conjunction with my AE-2 until the larger version of the Pico came out. Now after realizing the quality of the DAC in the USB Pico I'm starting to warm to the idea of limiting my higher end listening to a computer setup and selling my AE-2 in favor of a Pico until a larger version with more input/output options comes out. 

 I don't exactly know how firm Justin is on the larger version so I'd suggest if there's interest let him know, I would think that would increase the likelihood and/or decrease the time it takes to become a reality.


----------



## elnero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What will be the size and battery capability?_

 

Size for the Pico is about that of a Tomahawk or a bit less with, from my understanding, similar quality and aesthetics as the AE-2 . 

 Battery is 20 hours.

 Pricing is expected be about $300 for the amp alone and $500 for the DAC/Amp.


----------



## jamato8

A thread should be started for the Pico. It would be easier to know what is going on with it and what the different configurations are as it would be a dedicated thread to the Pico.


----------



## elnero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A thread should be started for the Pico. It would be easier to know what is going on with it and what the different configurations are as it would be a dedicated thread to the Pico._

 

That's probably a good idea.


----------



## mrarroyo

I ordered my D1 and should get in in 10 days or so. I plan on burning it in for 400 hours and meeting with HiFlight to compare my stock unit with his modded one. Then based on what I hear I will decide on rolling op-amps or not.

 I already asked Ron to build for me the various configurations for which I will gladly pay even if I do not use them. However, having exchanged emails with Ron as well as listened to his rig I am pretty sure he is unto somthing. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Whatever we find will be posted here fyi.


----------



## Dexdexter

Meanwhile, back at my D1, I have just past the 150-hour mark on the burn-in (*stock*, with the DAC running constantly, fed by lossless files from my MacBook's optical out), and can report that BIG changes are afoot.

 Suddenly, the iBasso has dropped a pair of enormous _cajones_ in the bass department; convincing, well-defined depth of genuine authority, without any apparent traces of looseness or flab. 

 Soundstage has broadened quite noticeably, while attack and decay have become increasingly organic. And I'm just beginning to hear signs of the top-end sparkle I've been enjoying with my CanAmp (which I have not yet compared the iBasso to).

 Of course, I am excited to see reports that the D1 continues to refine its presentation well past 300 hours and looking forward to whatever other surprises lay in store.

 So perhaps tomorrow will be a good time to roll in a couple of different op-amps to see what they do. But I'll switch back to stock for at least the remainder of the burn-in period, however long that may end up being. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've been listening exclusively through my 40 ohm Ultrasone PROline 2500s. Can't wait to try my Edition 9s, but first I need to source a longer 6.3mm to 3.5mm plug adapter, as I don't want to stress the D1's headphone jack with the stubby adapter that Ultrasone supplies.


----------



## jamato8

I just got some Proline 750's and they sound very nice with the D1. I am surprised they sound as good as they do fresh out of the box. The bass has very good definition with good hall decay.


----------



## bonkon

Question to D1 owners:
 Would you have bought the D1 at the current price if it was a standalone DAC ? With the same specs just without the amp. If not, what price would you pay for it as a standalone DAC?


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bonkon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question to D1 owners:
 Would you have bought the D1 at the current price if it was a standalone DAC ? With the same specs just without the amp. If not, what price would you pay for it as a standalone DAC?_

 

Probably, a DAC was all I was looking for. The amp is a bonus, and if opamp rolling delivers something stellar I will be quite happy.


----------



## itsborken

On a lot of DIY amps it is possible to adjust the gain by changing one (or several) resistor values. Has anyone tried dropping the gain on the D1? Volume at 10pm is pretty loud with my HP and I'd like a little more latitude with the volume control.

 Thanks in advance!


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Probably, a DAC was all I was looking for. The amp is a bonus, and if opamp rolling delivers something stellar I will be quite happy._

 

Yes that was exatly why I bought it, to get better sound from my Sony player with my Xin Reference. If however it turns out that the D1 rolled will equal or better the Reference then double bonus and one box less to carry.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bonkon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question to D1 owners:
 Would you have bought the D1 at the current price if it was a standalone DAC ? With the same specs just without the amp. If not, what price would you pay for it as a standalone DAC?_

 

No, I wanted an amp and DAC in one, but I woulda paid over $300 for a D1 if it came from the factory with the OPA2111/AD8397 setup with the current reviews of that setup...


----------



## globiboulga

Hey John,

 Got my 8066AR

 Followed your instructions, place the new opamp with the shiny dot on the bottom left (identical orientation compared to your picture), but I did not find the marker on the socket to confirm that. here's a picture of the new setup, does that look good?

 Also the 8066 is sitting way lower than the stock opamp which is mounted on plastic holders. Is that a problem according to you?

 Cheers,


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bonkon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question to D1 owners:
 Would you have bought the D1 at the current price if it was a standalone DAC ? With the same specs just without the amp. If not, what price would you pay for it as a standalone DAC?_

 

From my 4th post in this thread:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I'm not too concerned if the amp section itself is not the best; I really need the DAC-functionality which can feed either my Go-Vibe at 22v or the CanAmp or my Hi-Fi rig, etc.

 Naturally, I'm hoping for the best, and if the amplifier section turns out to be fabulous, it will be icing on the cake! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So the D1 has already far exceeded my best expectations as an amplifier. My Go-Vibe has been demoted to back-up status, and I'm looking forward to seeing just how much further the iBasso will evolve.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey John,

 Got my 8066AR

 Followed your instructions, place the new opamp with the shiny dot on the bottom left (identical orientation compared to your picture), but I did not find the marker on the socket to confirm that. here's a picture of the new setup, does that look good?

 Also the 8066 is sitting way lower than the stock opamp which is mounted on plastic holders. Is that a problem according to you?

 Cheers,_

 

This isn't John, but I can confirm that your installation looks correct. The square dot on the adapter is always the #1 pin and you have it oriented correctly in the socket. If anything, the shorter distance of the pins to the socket are advantageous, as it can lower resistance and stray capacitance slightly. 

 Enjoy!


----------



## Skylab

My D1 arrived and is burning in. I don't plan to evaluate it until it has 200 hours on it.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My D1 arrived and is burning in. I don't plan to evaluate it until it has 200 hours on it._

 


 how long it take from ur payment date to ur received date?


----------



## Skylab

Maybe a week? I wasn't paying attention...


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how long it take from ur payment date to ur received date?_

 

I paid for mine Saturday, and it is arriving today.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I paid for mine Saturday, and it is arriving today. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

wah, so fast, i have delayed my unit, i order for 10 units and they said they need 2 to 3 weeks time, anywhere i have to wait again.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe a week? I wasn't paying attention..._

 

Are you going to reivew just the amp section or will you do the DAC too?

 Maybe a quick comparo of the D1 amp/DAC vs the imod plus D1 amp?

 I think there are a lot of people out there wondering if the D1 dac stands up to the ipod's, including myself.


----------



## bonkon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you going to reivew just the amp section or will you do the DAC too?

 Maybe a quick comparo of the D1 amp/DAC vs the imod plus D1 amp?

 I think there are a lot of people out there wondering if the D1 dac stands up to the ipod's, including myself._

 

x2 or the DAC compared to the FubarII that would be very nice.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I hit 60 hours last night and confirmed what Jamato8 said before 

  Quote:


 At this point, with around 56 hours, the sound has smoothed out and the highs are getting better. The sound is becoming more organic and natural. The bass is very tight and a word I like to use when the quality of bass is good, it is tuneful, meaning the bass is not a blob of low frequency but distinct within its range of individual notes. 
 

This morning the highs sound better to me at 70 hours than what Jamato described at 100 hours, but I may not be as picky or as adept at noticing issues. 

 The cable I am using to connect has a "Y" with a headphone jack in the middle, so I am able to unplug the headphones and connect quickly without the amp and the D1 sounds pretty close to my source other than more gain and punchier bass. My source needs an upgrade from this Nano headphone out, but that is on the way (H120 and EJ2000 optical out).

 So, Skylab, I don't think you have to wait till 200 hours to listen.


----------



## Sisyphos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sisyphos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am still waiting for my D1 to arrive but meanwhile I am trying to follow the opamp rolling discussion but that's getting harder.
 So please let me try to clarify this to myself:

 1. To change the stock AD823 there is no soldering required. You just pull it out and put in an AD8066 (as jamato did) or an OPA2111 (as Ron did), right? 

 2. If you like either of them you can just leave in the NE5532 buffers, right?

 3. But if you want to change the buffers (preferably?) you pull out the two NE5532s and put in two AD8397s - they work with the AD8066 as well as with the OPA2111 and there is no soldering necessary, yes?

 Hope someone can clarify this because I don't know anything about electronics - I just want to get the best D1 sound ..._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_EXACTLY RIGHT!!!!!!_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *winnyec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_AD8066 and AD8397 are not available in DIP8, only in SOIC8 so they require soldering, but you can get away with the OPA2111 without soldering if you can find one somewhere._

 

I'm a little confused. 

 HiFlight, contrary to what winnyec wrote, are you sure that even AD8066 and AD8397 require no soldering?


----------



## jamato8

They do not require soldering to the main board but they do need to be soldered to an adapter that allows them to go into a socket for the dip8 as they are a soic8 (smd surface mount device).


----------



## mrarroyo

You solder the 8066 to the adapter. Then you install it in the sockets of the D1.

 So no soldering to the D1 board. Hope that helps.


----------



## Sisyphos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They do not require soldering to the main board but they do need to be soldered to an adapter that allows them to go into a socket for the dip8 as they are a soic8 (smd surface mount device)._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You solder the 8066 to the adapter. Then you install it in the sockets of the D1.

 So no soldering to the D1 board. Hope that helps._

 

Thank you. I think I am slowly understanding how this works ...

 I have never used a soldering iron but maybe I should try it in this case. When I look at the third picture on page one of this thread it looks easy:
 Just unsolder the AD823 and then solder a 8066 to the adapter. 
 But what if I mess up the adapter? Are they some kind of usual replacement parts or would I need to order one from iBasso?

 And what about the two NE5532? As they are DIP8 one can just pull them out and replace them with another DIP8 IC, right? But what if I want to try the AD8397? Then I would have to use the soldering iron on the board ... kinda scares me.


----------



## jamato8

You need experience to solder this correctly. You need a low wattage (25-30) small tipped soldering iron and the right technique and you need adapters that do not have something already soldered on them. While opamps that are already soldered in place can be taken off this requires experience or you will mess up the board. Practice is needed first with soldering and using the correct method. We all start somewhere but reading about soldering and then practicing is highly recommended. Brown Dog adapters are one of the adapters you can use and solder the new opamp to.


----------



## Skylab

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you going to reivew just the amp section or will you do the DAC too?

 Maybe a quick comparo of the D1 amp/DAC vs the imod plus D1 amp?

 I think there are a lot of people out there wondering if the D1 dac stands up to the ipod's, including myself._

 

Sure, I can try that. My main plan was to compare it as a DAC/AMP combo versus the Meier Move, but I will compare the DAC, driven by a CD player, to the iMod using lossless files driving the amp section of the D1, sure.


----------



## NelsonVandal

Noone has reviewed the DAC compared to iRiver IHPxxx/CDP DAC yet. Can someone do this please. It's the DAC that's interisting since it's the first affordable portable DAC/amp with optical in.

 Please!


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Noone has reviewed the DAC compared to iRiver IHPxxx/CDP DAC yet. Can someone do this please. It's the DAC that's interisting since it's the first affordable portable DAC/amp with optical in.

 Please!_

 

Send a PM to HiFlight, he has both.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, Skylab, I don't think you have to wait till 200 hours to listen._

 

I disagree, I put 100 hours into one and at that point I'd rate the Move higher. Others have said this amp needs 300 hours to burn in. If everyone wants it to be rated at what it can do vs. what it does partially burned in, I'd suggest burning in it as much as possible.


----------



## Skylab

Yeah, I am not rushing this, sorry. I am not going to have people say "but you didn't break it in enough!". It's getting 300 hours now


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I said "to listen to it". I didn't say or mean "review it" at 100 hours...


----------



## jamato8

I don't think it should be listened to for 400 hours. 



 :^) just kidding.


----------



## antonyfirst

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I am not rushing this, sorry. I am not going to have people say "but you didn't break it in enough!". It's getting 300 hours now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great choice. It would be even greater if you tried also opamp rolling like HiFlight and Jamato. With this very amp, it could be worh it. You could rank both (stock D1, "rolled" D1).


----------



## splawren

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsgood* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry iBasso D1 fans... in this paragraph I somehow sense not so good things incoming for you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Really? I think if anything it shows he's willing to give it a fair shake (though I've already ranted in true non-head-fi-fashion about the ever-expanding universe of user-created "burn-in" times, which may be entirely necessary, but are completely undocumented by the sellers and mfgrs, leaving end-users like us to "guess" when peak performance is actually reached. . . .). But 300 hours? 

 Fortunately, I've relied on Skylab's (and others') impressions in the past and not been disappointed, particularly b/c of Skylab's taste for healthy "bass," so I'll just sit tight and see whether my Move needs a competitor for evaluation on my part. 

 Counting down from 300 hours ( . . 300 bottles of beer on the wall . . .).


----------



## dagobah

A couple of people have stated that the stock D1 has a "5 rows back" feel to it. Has anyone who's opamp rolled experienced any differences in regard to this?


----------



## zer010gic

Skylab how do you burn in amps. Right now I have SPDIF signal coming in from my PowerMac G5 with Pink Noise generated from Blackholes Noise app which is at 50% I have the D1 at 12 o'clock. I have some cheep Sony fullsize headphones plugged in and they are at a volume slightly higher then comfortable.


----------



## Skylab

I just want to make sure to give the D1 a totally fair shake, that's all, and I have been following this thread, so it seems based on what others have felt that some significant break in is in order. I ALWAYS break in for 100 hours before reviewing any amp; in this case I just plan to wait even a little longer, based on what many of you have said.

 As for burn-in, yes, I just play music.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *splawren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really? I think if anything it shows he's willing to give it a fair shake (though I've already ranted in true non-head-fi-fashion about the ever-expanding universe of user-created "burn-in" times, which may be entirely necessary, but are completely undocumented by the sellers and mfgrs, leaving end-users like us to "guess" when peak performance is actually reached. . . .). But 300 hours? 

 Fortunately, I've relied on Skylab's (and others') impressions in the past and not been disappointed, particularly b/c of Skylab's taste for healthy "bass," so I'll just sit tight and see whether my Move needs a competitor for evaluation on my part. 

 Counting down from 300 hours ( . . 300 bottles of beer on the wall . . .)._

 

Ray, of Ray Samuels Audio does talk about burn-in and the need for it in his amps. So there are some that acknowledge this need. Vcaps, some of the finest coupling capacitors in the world need around 400 hours and this has been stated by a number of people in professional world in both manufactures and reveiwers.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think it should be listened to for 400 hours. 



 :^) just kidding._

 

You mean the 20 year time capsule approach is not a good idea?


----------



## globiboulga

Sisyphos (?), I managed to by my 8066 from a company that sells two versions: the opamp itself, and the opamp soldered to a Brown Dog. It's slightly expensive, but then you don't have to buy the soldering equipment (lol)...

 And then, it's plug and play (remove, verify orientation, put new one, reverify orientation...)...


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *splawren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ But 300 hours?_

 

Yeah, it's a shame they aren't fully cooked out of the box no vendors do that. Jamato8 and HiFlight have the in connection with the vendor and the experience so I'm not about to second guess their wisdom.


----------



## jaspert

The postman came knocking yesterday and D1 has a smaller buddy now.











 I find the Move's small volume knob and tight space between the knob and the adaptor highly annoying. They are rubbing together here.


----------



## Dexdexter

Nice photos there, jaspert! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How far along is your D1 on the burn-in?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, it's a shame they aren't fully cooked out of the box no vendors do that. Jamato8 and HiFlight have the in connection with the vendor and the experience so I'm not about to second guess their wisdom._

 

I have no "in" with either the Move manufacturer or the iBasso folks. 

 Bought them both from the websites with no further correspondence!


----------



## jamato8

No "in" here but I do like to correspond with iBasso, from time to time, and find out about their products, often my questions are from other people and I just like to help. I have done the same with Woo audio, Xin and others. 

 I do know that Audio Note UK (the owner whom I have corresponded with) states that Blackgates take at least 400 hours to form. That is just a cap but other items also take some time. The solder in the D1 is hard and I think this takes longer. Xin recently had to go to a different solder and noted that at first even the specs of the amp went down until some conditioning and all that had changed was the solder. 

 I never used to believe in any type of break-in/burn-in as it seemed a bit much but as I started understanding more of what was/is going on the more I could understand the actual physical reasons for this.


----------



## Blueiz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never used to believe in any type of break-in/burn-in as it seemed a bit much but as I started understanding more of what was/is going on the more I could understand the actual physical reasons for this._

 

Could you elaborate on this.... true interest from an electronics noob... Thanks.


----------



## jamato8

There have been papers written on the dialetric changing on wires from a capacitive effect (very small but there) to a more neutral performance. At first this will exhibit in a way to affect the sound and can also be at work to a greater degree on printed circuit boards (pcb). Capacitors form due to the metal contruction and the chemical material used in the contruction. There is a flow of electrons and a polarization of material, an alligning property. Resistors go through changes do to heat and many have wire leads, which also undergo changes. Many new surface mount caps get around the lead problem so inductance is reduced, which is a positive. There are many other much more detailed aspects but I would have to refer to the papers to offer detailed terminology. Solder can have a diode affect and poor solder joints can have more of this effect.


----------



## itsborken

jamato8 & HiFlight, sorry for the misstatement. I remembered at least one of you had corresponded directly and my choice of words was poor. I was not implying anything negative, rather, that the pair of you appear to have the most knowledge/experience with this amp and what can be gotten out of it. If offense was given, it was not my intention.


----------



## jamato8

No offense taken. Life is too short. :^) 

 Enjoying some Ultrasone PROline 750's right now. Not bad headphones at all, even after only 24 hours of use.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Enjoying some Ultrasone ProLine 750's right now. Not bad headphones at all, even after only 24 hours of use._

 

John, if you think that you've heard changes in the D1 with burn-in (as no doubt you have), just wait'll you get 200 hours into those PROlines!


----------



## HiFlight

I got one of the D1s shortly after they became available, mainly due to the flexibility of the various input/output combinations. As I had lots of opamps from several years of rolling opamps in my Xin amps, I was just curious as to what effect they would have with the D1. 

 It is probably easier and quicker to swap opamps and/or buffers in this amp than any I have owned, so I sort of worked thru my supply of suitable opamps. Some made very slight changes, some made no noticeable changes, and some made significant changes. 

 It is important to note that I started trying different opamps with only a few hours on the D1. As other have noted, the sound does improve considerably as additional time accrues, not only with the stock configuration, but also with the opamps that I have found (to my ears!) to further add to the 3-dimensional soundstage of the amp. That is where the changes seem to be most apparent. I would best describe it as a very increased sense of presence. 

 I am just an inveterate tinkerer at heart with lots of idle opamps in my parts drawer!


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No offense taken. Life is too short. :^) 

 Enjoying some Ultrasone PROline 750's right now. Not bad headphones at all, even after only 24 hours of use._

 

Yeah, I love them; they are great HPs.


----------



## bpfiguer

My iBasso D1 arrived today (ordered on 8/26/07). The manufacture quality (case, volume knob, connectors, labeling) is better than I was expecting, and similar to the SR-71/Hornet/Tomahawk quality (outside, I can't comment about inside). The volume knob feels similar to the SR-71, which I like a lot. One thing can improve is the "USB link" light, which should be recessive for protection. Now I'm playing ALAC files from my Rockboxed iRiver H160 optical line-out and using the Equinox Sennheiser HD650 (1 o'clock volume knob) or Grado RS-1 (11 o'clock ). The Grado stereo mini-plug to stereo plug adapter fits well in the recessive iBasso D1 mini jack.


----------



## Sisyphos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need experience to solder this correctly. You need a low wattage (25-30) small tipped soldering iron and the right technique and you need adapters that do not have something already soldered on them. While opamps that are already soldered in place can be taken off this requires experience or you will mess up the board. Practice is needed first with soldering and using the correct method. We all start somewhere but reading about soldering and then practicing is highly recommended. Brown Dog adapters are one of the adapters you can use and solder the new opamp to._

 

Ok, this sounds a bit more challenging than I expected. 
 And I don't have the time to start practicing this so it looks like I gotta focus my op amp rolling on DIP8 ...


----------



## Sisyphos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sisyphos (?), I managed to by my 8066 from a company that sells two versions: the opamp itself, and the opamp soldered to a Brown Dog. It's slightly expensive, but then you don't have to buy the soldering equipment (lol)...

 And then, it's plug and play (remove, verify orientation, put new one, reverify orientation...)... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Oh, I just saw your reply, that's good to know. 
 Are you still using them with the stock buffers (NE5532)? 
 How does it sound so far compared to the AD823?
 And where did you order the readily soldered Brown Dog 8066?


----------



## globiboulga

Sound is slightly better. Highs are still too harsh for me (better though). Biggest improvement comes from the overall musicality of the amp that has improved quite a bit.

 I have not changed the buffers. Will try to find them as well as the 2111 if I can get my hand on one that's soldered.

 I ordered mine from the following company, in Australia. I am sure you can find a seller that would do the soldering for a fee though:

http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/I...+Module+AD8065

 Note that I linked to the AD8065 cause it seems I bought the last mounted AD8066. You can search this website and you'll notice they sell most opamps either by themselves or mounted. Hope you can find that kind of services where you need it.


----------



## ehlarson

For those who don't drink Gates' or Jobs' Koolaid, the iBasso D1 seems to work fine with the generic Linux USB sound drivers. I'm running mine off an HP laptop under SuSE 10.x as I type this.


----------



## jamato8

That is the great thing about tubes or the ability to roll opamp, it is all up to you and your ears. Also sometimes in certain circuits opamps are going to sound different than they will in others, right? So everyone that wants to do some opamp rolling should report their findings the sound changes of the D1.


----------



## StevieDvd

This is just what I've been looking for for use at work, no issues with soundcard on work pc, can opamp roll (otherwise fiddle around) and it's reasonably priced.

 Ordered today let's see how long it takes and what UK customs charge me


----------



## globiboulga

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ampjoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just curious: why did you guys choose the AD8066 specifically? Why not the AD8620, OPA2107, AD746, even OPA2134 ... which are all more musical opamps than the AD8066, at least for my ears?_

 

Cause that was my first time and you can't be picky on your first time... I have no idea, so I went with an opamp mentioned on this thread which was readily available to buy soldered to a brown dog. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What do you think of the OPA627BP? Would that work? Good sound?


----------



## Sisyphos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sound is slightly better. Highs are still too harsh for me (better though). Biggest improvement comes from the overall musicality of the amp that has improved quite a bit.

 I have not changed the buffers. Will try to find them as well as the 2111 if I can get my hand on one that's soldered.

 I ordered mine from the following company, in Australia. I am sure you can find a seller that would do the soldering for a fee though:

http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/I...+Module+AD8065

 Note that I linked to the AD8065 cause it seems I bought the last mounted AD8066. You can search this website and you'll notice they sell most opamps either by themselves or mounted. Hope you can find that kind of services where you need it._

 

Thank you. I will try to find a company that sells readily mounted op amps in Europe. If I succeed I will add a link.


----------



## Sisyphos

Ron and jamato, I am still wondering how the sound changes when you leave in the stock buffers and just put in a OPA2111 or a AD8066 ...


----------



## bpfiguer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need experience to solder this correctly. You need a low wattage (25-30) small tipped soldering iron and the right technique and you need adapters that do not have something already soldered on them. While opamps that are already soldered in place can be taken off this requires experience or you will mess up the board. Practice is needed first with soldering and using the correct method. We all start somewhere but reading about soldering and then practicing is highly recommended. Brown Dog adapters are one of the adapters you can use and solder the new opamp to._

 

Tangent tutorials has a video for "Surface Mount Soldering Techniques" which is useful.
http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/tt03.html


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sisyphos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ron and jamato, I am still wondering how the sound changes when you leave in the stock buffers and just put in a OPA2111 or a AD8066 ..._

 

Somewhat improved, but not nearly as much change as replacing the buffers with the AD8397...I think the stock buffers sort of lend most of the different LR opamps a very similar sound signature. The buffers by far made the most noticeable difference in the character of the sound.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cause that was my first time and you can't be picky on your first time... I have no idea, so I went with an opamp mentioned on this thread which was readily available to buy soldered to a brown dog. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What do you think of the OPA627BP? Would that work? Good sound?_

 

The OPA 627 is considered by many to be one of the best sounding opamps going, notwithstanding the extremely high cost. Unfortunately for D1 users it is a single-channel opamp. The D1 uses dual channel opamps. 

 The OPA2111 sounds quite similar to the OPA627, IMHO. The OPA2107 output also resembles the sound signature of the 627 more than many other opamps. 

 There are many dual opamps that can be tried. Who knows, you may find a real gem! As Jamato mentioned, opamps can sound very different to different ears, and individual preferences vary greatly. 

 It is much better to listen with your own ears than to use second-hand ears!


----------



## winnyec

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you think of the OPA627BP? Would that work? Good sound?_

 

I would also love to know, but ppl didn't seem to like the idea of using two opamps instead of one each of which drawing quite some current (in addition OPA627BP is DIP (and the B grade series is only in DIP and TO99) and based on the pictures, the corresponding Brown Dog converter might just fit or just not, so some soldering trick might be needed):

 c.f. earlier post by jamato and follow-ups


----------



## mrarroyo

Ron (HiFlight) could the single to dual adapter be use to install the OPA627 in the D1? I mean something like:






 BTW, my D1 is scheduled to be delivered on Tuesday, 9/4.


----------



## winnyec

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The OPA2111 sounds quite similar to the OPA627, IMHO. The OPA2107 output also resembles the sound signature of the 627 more than many other opamps._

 

Although I know that sound perception is not really an exact science (as was just discussed), quoting TI:

 "When compared to OPA111 op amp, the OPA627/637 has lower noise, lower offset voltage, and much higher speed."


----------



## jpelg

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW, my D1 is scheduled to be delivered on Monday, 9/4._

 

Who is delivering on Labor Day?


----------



## OverlordXenu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who is delivering on Labor Day?_

 

9/4 is Tuesday.


----------



## visia

I have just scored 2 OPA2111s from ebay. Since I only need one for my D1, I can make second one available to a fellow iBasso-head 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (of course after I receive it from the seller). PM me if you are interested (first come, first serve).


----------



## Dexdexter

Since I've been having such a blast with my Sony D-EJ2000 feeding the optical input of my D1, I've decided to look for another PCDP with an digital output as a back-up.

 So to facilitate my quest and also to assist other members, I've begun to compile a listing of portable sources with digital outputs:

PCDPs & DAPs w/Digital Output Listing

 So please feel free to stop by the thread and help out with any models missing from the list!


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who is delivering on Labor Day?_

 

Sorry, it is schedule for TUESDAY, 9/4.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who is delivering on Labor Day?_

 

My wife. She delivered our first child on labor day after 48 hours of labor.

 ...ooops...Did I forget to mention THAT Labor Day event was 14 years ago. It can't be this labor day because it aint here yet. Sorry


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My wife. She delivered our first child on labor day after 48 hours of labor._

 

Congrats! Your wife must be beat; take good care of her Dad.


----------



## OverlordXenu

When I get my Cowon Q5 (October?), I am definitely picking this DAC/amp up.


----------



## after5cafe

I have used D1 as only DAC with ihp-120(40GB) and SR-71 .

 I also suffered to burn-in of D1 , I don't know how many times I thought this DAC is broken...HaHaHa


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpelg* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
Who is delivering on Labor Day?

 

My wife. She delivered our first child on labor day after 48 hours of labor.

 ...ooops...Did I forget to mention THAT Labor Day event was 14 years ago. It can't be this labor day because it aint here yet. Sorry 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Congratulations!!!

 And this post was damn funny as well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Classic signature material


----------



## jamato8

With around 400 hours on the D1 I am finding the sound very enjoyable. With the PROline 750's the sound is well rounded, excellent bass impact and open. It even drives the Koss Portapros very well giving the bass a very tight and solid presentation. I purchased an external battery pack that is rechargable and adjustable from 5 to 19 volts with 3000 to 4000 ma's of reserve and with this I get around 60 hours of use and very clean and dynamic sound as I can dial in a higher voltage bypassing the internal batteries. Cymbols are starting to take on the nice brassy sheen that adds to the quality of sound.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Why did they name it D1?

 Head-fi searches dose nothing because D1 is too "short or common", so it only searches "ibasso" and that gives me unwanted results from their other products.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I purchased an *external battery pack that is rechargable and adjustable* from 5 to 19 volts with 3000 to 4000 ma's of reserve and with this I get around 60 hours of use and very clean and dynamic sound as *I can dial in a higher voltage bypassing the internal batteries.*_

 

Link please, John, and do tell us more, more, more!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With around 400 hours on the D1 I am finding the sound very enjoyable. With the PROline 750's the sound is well rounded, excellent bass impact and open. It even drives the Koss Portapros very well giving the bass a very tight and solid presentation. I purchased an external battery pack that is rechargable and adjustable from 5 to 19 volts with 3000 to 4000 ma's of reserve and with this I get around 60 hours of use and very clean and dynamic sound as I can dial in a higher voltage bypassing the internal batteries. Cymbols are starting to take on the nice brassy sheen that adds to the quality of sound._

 

Yah, but what would it have sounded like "stock" at 400 hours? Do opamps and buffers need burn in?

 I am at 147 hours, haven't listened since about 70-80.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ampjoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You guys should really try the AD746 (rather than go nuts to find the OPA2111)._

 

Hmmm...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Analog Devices* 
_The AD746 is a dual operational amplifier, consisting of *two AD744 BiFET op amps on a single chip*...

 The AD746 is available in three 8-pin packages: *plastic mini DIP*, hermetic cerdip and surface mount (SOIC)._

 

Isn't the AD744 the current op-amp of choice for the LaRocco PRII mkII? Should be worth a go, thanks ampjoy!


----------



## trickywombat

What is the optimal cable length to connect the iriver iHP-120 via miniplug optical out to the SPDIF optical in of the iBasso D1?

 I'd like to place the iHP-120 on top of the D1, and would like the most compact way of routing the optical cable to the back of the D1 while minimizing the stress from bending the cable.

 I'm thinking of ordering a custom miniplug to TOSlink cable, and can't decide on the cable length.

 Any good ready-made cases out there? I'm thinking of getting a Pelican hard case and drilling holes and slots with a Dremel. Wondering about heat dissipation, though.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *trickywombat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any good ready-made cases out there? I'm thinking of getting a Pelican hard case and drilling holes and slots with a Dremel. Wondering about heat dissipation, though._

 

You should be just fine. I've been running my D1 for just over 250 hours straight now (amp _and_ DAC) and it remains entirely cool to the touch.

 Actually, I'm growing kinda fond of the velcro'd leather sleeve. Sure, the fit could be much more precise (already e-mailed iBasso about this) and I'd prefer that it were black (intend to e-mail iBasso about this), but it provides a nice non-abrasive cushion between the D1 and my PCDP (or iPod).

 For me, a hard case would only add size and weight, both of which the D1 already has enough of, and besides, it rests either on my desktop or safely nestled within the confines of a cushioned dedicated media pocket in my backpack.


----------



## jamato8

http://www.tekkeon.com/site/products-mypower.php

 I am using the 3450. It charges great, seems to last a long time and I can use it on a number of different device. I got it from Costwonder on Ebay. He shipped fast and the unit is new in box with warranty. 

 The AD746 looks like an interesting opamp to try out.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.tekkeon.com/site/products-mypower.php

 I am using the 3450. It charges great, seems to last a long time and I can use it on a number of different device. I got it from Costwonder on Ebay. He shipped fast and the unit is new in box with warranty. _

 

Looks great, John, thanks for the link!

 What voltage are you "dialing-in" for the D1 in order to bypass the internal batteries? 

 And any idea what is the highest voltage one can safely use with the D1? (looking at my 24v linear regulated power supply 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 )


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should be just fine. I've been running my D1 for just over 250 hours straight now (amp and DAC) and it remains entirely cool to the touch.

 Actually, I'm growing kinda fond of the velcro'd leather sleeve. Sure, the fit could be much more precise (already e-mailed iBasso about this)._

 

I'd think it would fit better if they put the velcro seam on a corner. Unfortunately the way the sleeve is designed it can't be tried. Next time you send them an email can you ask them to try it and posslbly add a redesigned sleeve as an orderable option?


----------



## itsborken

Running non-stop, I now have 310 hours on it. On stock chips the soundstage and separation on the D1 is phenonimal. The 5 rows back issue seems to have cleared up with burn-in. Not as close as the Move but certainly an enjoyable listen. The amp is still a touch grainer for my liking so I'm hoping some opamp rolling addresses that concern. 

 I'm going to listen to the stock D1 for a week or so exclusively then compare the two; that will address the 'its what you are used to hearing' issue.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks great, John, thanks for the link!

 What voltage are you "dialing-in" for the D1 in order to bypass the internal batteries? 

 And any idea what is the highest voltage one can safely use with the D1? (looking at my 24v linear regulated power supply 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








 )_

 

It would be best to email them to find out the highest. The adapter is twelve volts so that is what I run the battery at. I also used 9 volts, which will make the external battery run longer and the unit charged and ran fine and was using the ext. battery for power. I got the 3450 and may get the additional battery that can be used with it to keep my Mac going between charges and everything else. Seems to work well and it comes with the most common adapters. The other adapters that can be obtained just about cover everything. Great little device.


----------



## Dexdexter

Well, I managed to snap off the tip of my mini-Toslink adapter while shifting around my MacBook. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Looking for a replacement, I found a clever little optical cable sold by Velleman Components. It features a pair of dual-rotating connectors that are configurable for Toslink or mini-plug:











 It only cost 6 Euros, and sounds the same as the optical cable bundled with the iBasso, and should tide me over until I can get a couple of those SysConcept cables.


----------



## lmfboy01

thx for the site Dex. looks like good stuff, will look into it if they ship to the US. sorry to hear about your cable! but somehow i managed the same thing but with my ac adaptor! grr.. i think it got smashed in luggage and 1 pin, cant tell if its positive or negative is pushed in a bit and is loose.... i can plug into the outlet and it sorta works.... but it seems kinda sketchy... grrr! anyone know where to get an alternate AC adapter?? 12v 2A positve ground with the right plug? ill email iBasso now to see what they can do as well....


----------



## kpeezy

Hmm.. I'm debating on the D1 vs the Move and the main thing that I like about the D1 is that it's rechargeable. Having to constantly replace the batteries in the Move would bug me to no end. I didn't read this entire thread for obvious reasons, but that's the major difference that I've gotten out of the two. My question is as follows: is the battery life good on the D1?


----------



## elnero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kpeezy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm.. I'm debating on the D1 vs the Move and the main thing that I like about the D1 is that it's rechargeable. Having to constantly replace the batteries in the Move would bug me to no end. I didn't read this entire thread for obvious reasons, but that's the major difference that I've gotten out of the two. My question is as follows: is the battery life good on the D1?_

 

I think the MAJOR difference between the two is the input/output options.


----------



## Skylab

Battery life seems excellent. I ran it 30 hours and it was still going when I decided to charge it.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kpeezy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm.. I'm debating on the D1 vs the Move and the main thing that I like about the D1 is that it's rechargeable. Having to constantly replace the batteries in the Move would bug me to no end. I didn't read this entire thread for obvious reasons, but that's the major difference that I've gotten out of the two. My question is as follows: is the battery life good on the D1?_

 

Not sure; I've been running it straight from mains. 

 Group question--is there an indicator that shows when the batteries are getting low? I don't want to deep discharge them.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not sure; I've been running it straight from mains. 

 Group question--is there an indicator that shows when the batteries are getting low? I don't want to deep discharge them._

 

Yes, the blue LED on the front panel begins flashing, but the D1 still plays normally for a good while until you hook up the AC adapter. I got about 44 hours (amp only) off the first charge.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

At 171 hours now, but haven't bothered to listen since at 70-80 hours. I would if I didn't have the Tomahawk and a couple of nice cMoys in the meantime. Eventually it will be getting HiFlight's OPA2111/AD8397 kit when it is available, which takes care of the slight grainy-ness as I understand.


----------



## xollox

I've been keeping up with this thread for the most part, but haven't seen a review of the H1x0 internal DAC compared to this one. Has anyone tried that yet?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *trickywombat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the optimal cable length to connect the iriver iHP-120 via miniplug optical out to the SPDIF optical in of the iBasso D1?

 I'd like to place the iHP-120 on top of the D1, and would like the most compact way of routing the optical cable to the back of the D1 while minimizing the stress from bending the cable.

 I'm thinking of ordering a custom miniplug to TOSlink cable, and can't decide on the cable length.

 Any good ready-made cases out there? I'm thinking of getting a Pelican hard case and drilling holes and slots with a Dremel. Wondering about heat dissipation, though._

 

Just ask sysconcepts for the same mini-to-toslink cable as he made for Larry G. with 3.4cm from center to center of the input and output. See below.

 "OK, we have measured the cable and base on the center port distance of
 both short cables 3.4cm; the MiniPlug to Toslink cable will be 15.5cm
 long. This will give you comfortable (without strain) "U" shape bend radius
 and connectors will be parallel to each other."

 The distance is actually 3.25cm with both the iBasso and iRiver wearing their leather garb, but I wanted some padding in the numbers just in case, so I told them 3.4cm


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, I'm growing kinda fond of the velcro'd leather sleeve. Sure, the fit could be much more precise (already e-mailed iBasso about this) and I'd prefer that it were black (intend to e-mail iBasso about this), but it provides a nice non-abrasive cushion between the D1 and my PCDP (or iPod)._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd think it would fit better if they put the velcro seam on a corner. Unfortunately the way the sleeve is designed it can't be tried. Next time you send them an email can you ask them to try it and posslbly add a redesigned sleeve as an orderable option?_

 

If they just added about 10-12mm more leather, the fit would be much neater. I've even considered trying to stretch the sleeve, but haven't gotten round to it yet. But I think having the seam on a corner might subject it to more movement and wear than it faces in its current configuration. I'll be sure to mention it to iBasso next time I e-mail them.


----------



## DennyL

I just received my iBasso D1 (ordered 24th August). At the moment the sibilances are far too lively. I shall be away for four days so I shall leave it burning in, driven by my DAB radio which has an optical output, and driving my K701s at a fairly high volume.

 Edit: out of the box I thought the D1 sounded pretty awful (USB>DAC>Amp). After 12 hours of burn-in it is sounding much better.


----------



## cooperpwc

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just ask sysconcepts for the same mini-to-toslink cable as he made for Larry G. with 3.4cm from center to center of the input and output. See below.

 "OK, we have measured the cable and base on the center port distance of
 both short cables 3.4cm; the MiniPlug to Toslink cable will be 15.5cm
 long. This will give you comfortable (without strain) "U" shape bend radius
 and connectors will be parallel to each other."

 The distance is actually 3.25cm with both the iBasso and iRiver wearing their leather garb, but I wanted some padding in the numbers just in case, so I told them 3.4cm_

 

This is why I love Head-Fi. I was contemplating just this issue should I get the D1. The interesting question is... if one opted for the heat shrinked "right angle" connections that Sysconcepts can do, would one wish to lengthen the cable? (Not necessarily...) Those right angles might be desirable as the loop would not then add so much height within a carrying case as it would bend parallel to the top if the H140 and D1.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cooperpwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is why I love Head-Fi. I was contemplating just this issue should I get the D1. The interesting question is... if one opted for the heat shrinked "right angle" connections that Sysconcepts can do, would one wish to lengthen the cable? (Not necessarily...) Those right angles might be desirable as the loop would not then add so much height within a carrying case as it would bend parallel to the top if the H140 and D1._

 

I did something very similar to that too, but as a 13cm mini-mini with two 90 degree adapters for the end to be mini or toslink.


----------



## mrarroyo

Recently I have gone overboard and bought a few toys. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 My wife is shocked but so far she is putting up with it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyways, I have been following the evolution of this amp here at Head-Fi for a couple of weeks. Normally I would not have ordered because I do not need it, however when two of the members HiFlight and Jamato8 spoke so highly of it I got interested. Then they both starting rolling amps and posting the results and improvements. Sold! I had to get one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I further rationalized by saying: "I'm thinking of getting a laptop, the sound cards in laptops are not very good." 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I ordered mine late on 8/28/07 and I received it today 9/4/07. Not bad specially considering there was a Holiday (Labor Day) yesterday.

 The unit will be burnt in for 400 as recommended by those who have an unit (i.e. Jamato8) I will then post my impressions. Meanwhile here are some pictures of the unit and what it comes with. Please remember to click on the thumbnail to view the full size picture.













 The following picture is to show the iBasso D1 size relative to the Ray Samuel's SR-71.





 Straight out of the box:

 -Nice clarity, detail, and separation.
 -Nice soundstage
 -A bit to energetic on the highs.
 -Needs a bit more bass.

 The last two usually get resolved with burn in.


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Recently I have gone overboard and bought a few toys. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My wife is shocked but so far she is putting up with it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyways, I have been following the evolution of this amp here at Head-Fi for a couple of weeks. Normally I would not have ordered because I do not need it, however when two of the members HiFlight and Jamato8 spoke so highly of it I got interested. Then they both starting rolling amps and posting the results and improvements. Sold! I had to get one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


*I further rationalized by saying: "I'm thinking of getting a laptop, the sound cards in laptops are not very good." *



_

 

Just admit it! You're poisoned 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 Although I'm one too


----------



## Sieg9198

oops, my first double post


----------



## Capunk

Ordered 4th september... I guess I'm going to join the league =) 
 but damn Paypal hasn't cleared the payment... I guess i should've used CC instead of Bank funding.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_oops, my first double post_

 

Yeah, but those are always the forum's fault


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_oops, my first double post_

 

Yeah, but those are always the forum's fault


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, but those are always the forum's fault 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, but those are always the forum's fault 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Recently I have gone overboard and bought a few toys. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My wife is shocked but so far she is putting up with it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




... 




_

 

Hmmm...looks like iBasso have already upgraded the coax cable to yellow...I just got basic black.


----------



## mapstec

After seeing a few titles like the above (you select if it is praise or curse...) I have to admit that my bank account has suffered since I started reading Head-Fi 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 After springing for the D1 I had to get a good headphone (MS1, and yes, it rocks!!) and just now I snagged myself an Iriver H120 (4 more available if you are fast)....

 And all of the above in the space of less then three weeks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 More detailed descriptions to follow once I have everything in my possesion and/or what needs to has burned in.

 Great community, but I guess I need to stop reading...

 and listen more


----------



## Duheed

so let me guess this right. with dac amps when using a laptop the only wire going from the laptop to the amp is the usb right?


----------



## xollox

Quote:


 so let me guess this right. with dac amps when using a laptop the only wire going from the laptop to the amp is the usb right? 
 

correct.


----------



## ehlarson

Hi -

 I'm planning to do a bit of op-amp rolling, and I wonder if anyone has any thoughts on the following:

 AD746
 OPA2134
 OPA2604
 LM4562


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duheed* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so let me guess this right. with dac amps when using a laptop the only wire going from the laptop to the amp is the usb right?_

 

Or, alternatively, either USB or optical cable with laptops such as the MacBooks.


----------



## bennet

nice.


----------



## yuheng

no body try LM49720, i feel it have pretty good.


----------



## zer010gic

Jameto8 or HiFlight how much more output where you able to get with the upgraded buffers? I just got my HD650s in and to get the kind of volume I am accustomed to I have to turn the volume up to 85%-90% and sometimes more depending on the source.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Jameto8 or HiFlight how much more output where you able to get with the upgraded buffers? I just got my HD650s in and to get the kind of volume I am accustomed to I have to turn the volume up to 85%-90% and sometimes more depending on the source._

 

With my HD650s, the D1 volume is about 12:00. That is plenty high for my ears!

 (Make sure your source volume is near max)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Jameto8 or HiFlight how much more output where you able to get with the upgraded buffers? I just got my HD650s in and to get the kind of volume I am accustomed to I have to turn the volume up to 85%-90% and sometimes more depending on the source._

 

With my HD600 I get just enough volume with headphone out and iPod at 85% and D1 at 100%, but with dock connector line out I can turn the D1 down from max to 1-2 o'clock. It is even louder using optical out from EJ200 or H120 into the D1. Are the HD650 that much less efficient than the HD600?


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With my HD650s, the D1 volume is about 12:00. That is plenty high for my ears!

 (Make sure your source volume is near max)_

 

Did you notice a volume output change when you switched or is it the same


----------



## zer010gic

FYI I am using the usb


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi -

 I'm planning to do a bit of op-amp rolling, and I wonder if anyone has any thoughts on the following:

 AD746
 OPA2134
 OPA2604
 LM4562_

 

OPA2134 OK
 LM4562 OK, but thin sounding. Not as good as the specs would indicate.
 OPA2107 Very Good.
 AD8066 Very Good, excellent imaging. Highs may tend to not be real smooth with some bright phones. 
 AD8620 Very Good, punchy. Sounds good with all phones
 OPA2111 Outstanding, very 3-dimensional. Super all around performer. 
 LTC8241HVCS8 Outstanding, very tube-like. Great solid bass. 

 The last 2 are my favorites. I did like the AD744 in my Xin amps quite well, although it and the 604 have higher noise figures than most of the other opamps, they still sound very good. 744 I liked better than 604. 

 My 746s have not yet arrived. 

 I have found no buffers that work as well as the AD8397.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LTC8241HVCS8 Outstanding, very tube-like. Great solid bass._

 

Can you provide some further details about this one, Ron? I Googled it and came up empty...


----------



## zer010gic

Is the USB input the quietest of the connections?


 Corey


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Jameto8 or HiFlight how much more output where you able to get with the upgraded buffers? I just got my HD650s in and to get the kind of volume I am accustomed to I have to turn the volume up to 85%-90% and sometimes more depending on the source._

 

Is the USB level (not really correct to say "volume") maxed out from your computer? It should be for the best sound and correct level going into the D1.


----------



## visia

Linear website has LTC6241, but does not list LTC8241. It also looks from Xin's forums that Solid Tube-WV opamp is LTC6241.


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the USB level (not really correct to say "volume") maxed out from your computer? It should be for the best sound and correct level going into the D1._

 

Yeah its output is maxed. When I get home tonight I am going to try the optical output from my desktop. For it to be at a normal listening area for me I have to raise it to about 3 o'clock. but I like 4 or 5 o'clock


----------



## visia

Yes, I think there is a warning to that effect on Xin's site. Does it mean that it can be used when D1 is powered by batteries, but not by power supply?
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *stuff* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ahhh... Now I get it. I thought that "LTC" was the prefix of a Linear Technology opamp, but couldn't found any with "8241" on their site. 

 The LTC6241 definitely exists 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 and is a CMOS opamp. Max supply voltage +/- 5.5V. Be careful..._


----------



## MoAv

Wow what a tread. I've just joined in and read the whole thing the minute a friend told me to check something I might like. 
 I've watched the forum for a descent portable Optical DAC for my sweet H140 for over year. Hoping to come across one that can bring my iRiver back to the cutting edge in sound fidelity. I did not get why there are none that gives the oomph of a $300 portable amp, with a DAC to get the optical signal from my DAP. I thought I was insane being the only one thinking that with the progress of audio technology and consumption. And here came the one that can do just that. 
 I'm buying one next month after paycheck
 My first portable amp for my HD595. yea I know after that some new phones.

 Cheers for the info !


----------



## Dash

Ive been following this thread and have a few questions. How does DAC in the D1 stack up against $200-500 CDPs? How does the D1 work with low impedance/high current (IEMs & Grado)? Do the opamps help with regard to that?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ive been following this thread and have a few questions. How does DAC in the D1 stack up against $200-500 CDPs?_

 

Not sure, just yet. I expect to compare the D1's DAC against my Ah! Njoe Tjoeb CD 4000 Reference sometime this coming weekend, once I reach the 400 hour mark on the burn-in.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the D1 work with low impedance/high current (IEMs & Grado)? Do the opamps help with regard to that?_

 

IME, just beautifully driving my 30 Ohm Ultrasone Edition 9s and 40 Ohm PROline 2500s, so the D1 packs plenty of current in its stock configuration. Op-amps will mainly refine its presentation, and I'm looking forward to trying the combinations that HiFlight and jamato8 have found so compelling.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *visia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Linear website has LTC6241, but does not list LTC8241. It also looks from Xin's forums that Solid Tube-WV opamp is LTC6241._

 

That was a typo on my part! Yes, it is the Solid Tube WV. Make sure that you get the "HV" designation, as it can handle the higher voltage.


----------



## Dash

Thanks Dex. Im looking forward to it.


----------



## zer010gic

yeah its official I get much more output from the optical vs the usb.


----------



## jaspert

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ive been following this thread and have a few questions. How does DAC in the D1 stack up against $200-500 CDPs? How does the D1 work with low impedance/high current (IEMs & Grado)? Do the opamps help with regard to that?_

 

D1 is a keeper in stock form. 

 Shanling CD 300 Coaxial out -> iBasso D1 -> HD 650 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 The Dac is pretty fine.


----------



## Dash

I had PC issues(Dell XPS 410) last night and had to pull my tower away from the wall. I learned that my PC has a digital out. That could feed the D1 well. Im getting closer to pulling the trigger. Im definetly a member of team minimal. The Ipod is a great portable source but I need better dynamics and miss that blackness of a solid source. I hope the D1 is a formidable all one solution. The price is outstanding and the specs look good. What current topology design would you compare the D1 amp to? 3 channel with buffer ala Mini3?


----------



## Duheed

someone explain this optical thing to me, how does the cable look like and where does it go


----------



## StevieDvd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Duheed* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_someone explain this optical thing to me, how does the cable look like and where does it go_

 

Look at post #864 in theis very thread and you'll see a white cable with blue ends. That's an optical cable which fits into a small rectangular like socket that is normally covered with a small flap or plugged with a plastic plug to keep the socket clean.

 The optical is usually referred to as a Toslink connection,


 Steve


----------



## jamato8

Well after many more hours and with my Ultrasone PROline 750's opening up, the D1 is really a great little, big sounding amp. My first impression was that it did not sound like a portable but more like a solid home amp and that impression still holds but with greater pleasure as the amp has opened up more, bass impact has improved and general presentation is just very enjoyable. No, I am not using the stock opamps but in my experience an amp has to be built right to sound good no matter if you are swapping opamps or not.


----------



## mrarroyo

I have had the amp in burn-in for 36 hours. I has opened up even further, and the bass has become more defined. The treble is a bit too energetic but I do believe it will continue to mellow with burn in.

 I have stayed in contact via email with Ron (HiFlight) who has continued to experiment rolling various op-amps. It will be a lot of fun when we get together, hopefully at the end of September to compare stock configuration to a modded one. 

 On the other hand I should mention something that could have made or bombed this amp. At the 12 hour mark of burn in I noticed that the blue light in the face plate was not longer working. The amp/dac was working fine. Needless to say I was quite pissed off 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 because I would have to ship the D1 back to China at my cost and wait a month or so to get a replacement. 

 Well I worried for nothing. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I sent an email to iBasso and they are shipping me a new unit which should arrive here on Monday (9/10/07) or Tuesday (9/11/07). Then I am to ship the D1 I have back to them and they are picking up the tab. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have to say that said customer service will keep me buying their gear. Nowadays it is refreshing to see such a great company policy. Yes I am very happy.


----------



## John_H88

Quick question on the hard-to-find OPA2111. I looked at the datasheet and there are several versions -- AM, BM, SM, KM, KP. I know it has to be a DIP configuration, but do all the DIP variants of the 2111 work? Rating differences appear to be mostly voltage and temperature (frequency response and output the same across all models), would they all sound largely the same? Thanks.


----------



## mrarroyo

I was going to wait to do a comparison of the D1 at the 100 and 400 hours of burn in. Guess I will not and instead I will post a bit of information now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The D1 I have has about 44 hours of burn in. Today I fed the Dac in th D1 via an optical cable from my coputer (Chaintech AV710). The files are Apple Lossless and I am using iTunes Version 7.3.2.6. The cans I used were the AKG K701.

 I did a quick comparison with my fully burnt in SR-71 using the line out on the front panel of the D1 to feed the SR-71. I honestly expected the SR-71 to trounce the D1. Well, I was wrong and the D1 has deeper bass, higher highs, and a better soundstage. Thinking I had my ears plugged 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I asked my wife to listen in and tell me which she prefered. She chose the D1 as well.

 This is by not means a full test nor the final word. I do plan to evaluate at the 100 and the 400 hour mark. But based on the quick listen we did the D1 is a heck of an unit.


----------



## jonesy

The same happened to me with the blue light on and off at random and I have already received a replacement. Great customer service - which is really going to be tested as I seem to have a different problem now: the battery charge led stays red even afetr 10 hours charging with the unit off. Strangely, when viewed at an angle, I can see a green flashing led underneath the red one. I've emailed ibasso to see if I have another dud on my hands. I sincerely hope not. Maybe a great product marred by poor quality control?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *John_H88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quick question on the hard-to-find OPA2111. I looked at the datasheet and there are several versions -- AM, BM, SM, KM, KP. I know it has to be a DIP configuration, but do all the DIP variants of the 2111 work? Rating differences appear to be mostly voltage and temperature (frequency response and output the same across all models), would they all sound largely the same? Thanks._

 

You are correct, differences do not affect the sound, sonically, they all sound similar. I am using the OPA2111KP. As long as it is a DIP configuration, it will work just fine. Plug & play.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was going to wait to do a comparison of the D1 at the 100 and 400 hours of burn in. Guess I will not and instead I will post a bit of information now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The D1 I have has about 44 hours of burn in. Today I fed the Dac in th D1 via an optical cable from my coputer (Chaintech AV710). The files are Apple Lossless and I am using iTunes Version 7.3.2.6. The cans I used were the AKG K701.

 I did a quick comparison with my fully burnt in SR-71 using the line out on the front panel of the D1 to feed the SR-71. I honestly expected the SR-71 to trounce the D1. Well, I was wrong and the D1 has deeper bass, higher highs, and a better soundstage. Thinking I had my ears plugged 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I asked my wife to listen in and tell me which she prefered. She chose the D1 as well.

 This is by not means a full test nor the final word. I do plan to evaluate at the 100 and the 400 hour mark. But based on the quick listen we did the D1 is a heck of an unit. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Welcome to the club, Miguel!!!!


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jonesy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The same happened to me with the blue light on and off at random and I have already received a replacement. Great customer service - which is really going to be tested as I seem to have a different problem now: the battery charge led stays red even afetr 10 hours charging with the unit off. Strangely, when viewed at an angle, I can see a green flashing led underneath the red one. I've emailed ibasso to see if I have another dud on my hands. I sincerely hope not. Maybe a great product marred by poor quality control?_

 

Mine did that once and I just ran it all the way down and recharged and after 4 hours it turned green. So I think its just the recharge chip getting confused or something.


 Corey


----------



## jonesy

Thanks for that - I'm runnning it down now!


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StevieDvd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Look at post #864 in theis very thread and you'll see a white cable with blue ends. That's an optical cable which fits into a small rectangular like socket that is normally covered with a small flap or plugged with a plastic plug to keep the socket clean.

 The optical is usually referred to as a Toslink connection,


 Steve_

 

And this is what one would use to connect, say, a DJ2000 to the D1 DAC?

 Sorry to be so unknowledgeable about this. Since getting an iMod and a Xin SMIV, I have pretty much shelved my DJ2000. It would be nice to bring it out with the DI as a desk unit. This sounds like a great unit.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kiwirugby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And this is what one would use to connect, say, a DJ2000 to the D1 DAC?_

 

Yes, in a manner of speaking. The Sony D-EJ2000 features a combined 3.5mm line-out / optical-out mini jack, so you need either a mini-plug to Toslink cable:







 ...or a mini-plug adapter to fit over one end of a regular Toslink to Toslink cable:






 The cables available from SysConcept come highly recommended by any number of fellow members here.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kiwirugby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to be so unknowledgeable about this. Since getting an iMod and a Xin SMIV, I have pretty much shelved my DJ2000. It would be nice to bring it out with the DI as a desk unit. This sounds like a great unit._

 

I'm enjoying a D-EJ2000 with my D1 right now and it is simply a superb combination. I think you will be surprised and delighted by how wonderful they sound together.


----------



## Ricey20

so besides ebay where can one find some OPA2111KPs or even OPA2107APs?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was going to wait to do a comparison of the D1 at the 100 and 400 hours of burn in. Guess I will not and instead I will post a bit of information now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The D1 I have has about 44 hours of burn in. Today I fed the Dac in th D1 via an optical cable from my coputer (Chaintech AV710). The files are Apple Lossless and I am using iTunes Version 7.3.2.6. The cans I used were the AKG K701.

 I did a quick comparison with my fully burnt in SR-71 using the line out on the front panel of the D1 to feed the SR-71. I honestly expected the SR-71 to trounce the D1. Well, I was wrong and the D1 has deeper bass, higher highs, and a better soundstage. Thinking I had my ears plugged 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I asked my wife to listen in and tell me which she prefered. She chose the D1 as well.

 This is by not means a full test nor the final word. I do plan to evaluate at the 100 and the 400 hour mark. But based on the quick listen we did the D1 is a heck of an unit. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I tried to tell everyone (or maybe just Skylab) that mine sounded great at 70+ hours, but I got beat down. I stopped the 24hr/day burn in at 200 hours, and will just burn it in as I listen now. 

 I'm on the list for the HiFlight OPA2111/D8397 upgrade kit. I have an AD8066/AD8397x2 here now, but my browndog's haven't shown up and I still expect to ruin them during the soldering process doing it myself. Why I have two wired and one butane soldering iron I'll never know...


----------



## mapstec

Just a quick question in between: 
 Has anyone changed the Opamp for the DAC section?
 Shouldn't that change the sound signature even more then the Amp section?


----------



## Ricey20

list for the HiFlight OPA2111/AD8397 kit? Whats that and how do i go about gettin on that list?


----------



## jonesy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, in a manner of speaking. The Sony D-EJ2000 features a combined 3.5mm line-out / optical-out mini jack, so you need either a mini-plug to Toslink cable:






 ...or a mini-plug adapter to fit over one end of a regular Toslink to Toslink cable:






 The cables available from SysConcept come highly recommended by any number of fellow members here.



 I'm enjoying a D-EJ2000 with my D1 right now and it is simply a superb combination. I think you will be surprised and delighted by how wonderful they sound together. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 I have the same winning combination. Compact and elegant, and sounds great, of course!


----------



## Schalldampfer

Can someone comment on how these stack up against the Total BitHead? I'm thinking of selling mine and going with this one.


----------



## MoAv

Can someone explain more about the opamp OPA2111, like which version of it shoud I buy and how much should it costs ? right now it's going for $50 for a set of them.


----------



## mapstec

Just a heads up for those with a defective front LED:

 mine worked for a few hours, then not for a few days, and suddenly today it started working again?!?

 So maybe you do not send back the D1 immediately but instead wait for a bit.


----------



## Ricey20

that still doesnt sound normal though, should email ibasso.
 As for the OPA2111 i think everyone uses the texas instruments one with 8 pin DIP. I think Burr brown has OPA2111s but dont know what the difference is


----------



## jamato8

Based on some of the above comments, which correlate with my findings the D1, from my hearing impressions does not sound like a portable amp. It has the drive and capabilities I have heard from home amps and freedom from the small sound that often accompanies portables. It has a big and open sound, which I find exciting since it also has the bonus of a very good dac section.


----------



## Krohn

I'm trying to wait for Skylab's review, and more improtantly, to pay off my credit card before I run it up again with a D1...You guys make it extremely hard to be patient!!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Based on some of the above comments, which correlate with my findings the D1, from my hearing impressions does not sound like a portable amp. It has the drive and capabilities I have heard from home amps and freedom from the small sound that often accompanies portables. It has a big and open sound, which I find exciting since it also has the bonus of a very good dac section._

 

To peeps here in general. We need people to "qualify" these kind of statement by noting the hours burned, if the opamps are rolled and which ones they are if rolled. 

 Your signature isn't updated, shows D1 as stock and in #3 position. Updating the sig once can save time posting that stuff everytime.


----------



## jamato8

I found the D1 to be open and unlike portables in the stock configuration. With the AD8066 and 8397's it has a smoother high frequency response and better bass. It is also more open and dynamic with the two mentioned opamps than the stock form but in stock it is still very good and everyone's taste is different. At this point the Xin Reference is the best amp I have heard but I would still be happy with the D1.


----------



## visia

I think TI bought Burr Brown.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ricey20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_that still doesnt sound normal though, should email ibasso.
 As for the OPA2111 i think everyone uses the texas instruments one with 8 pin DIP. I think Burr brown has OPA2111s but dont know what the difference is_


----------



## Schalldampfer

Need to get one... do they accept Paypal? And no one would happen to be selling their brand new amp, would they?


----------



## StevieDvd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Need to get one... do they accept Paypal? And no one would happen to be selling their brand new amp, would they?_

 

Yes that's how I paid for mine which is at home waiting for me apparently


----------



## jonesy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mapstec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a heads up for those with a defective front LED:

 mine worked for a few hours, then not for a few days, and suddenly today it started working again?!?

 So maybe you do not send back the D1 immediately but instead wait for a bit._

 

I had the same blue led problem and sent it back. I was sent a replacement before sending back the defective unit.

 As it turns out, the new unit also has problem on the power side of things: the charging led will not turn to green (meaning fully cahrged) BUT there is a faintly discernable flashing green led underneath the still-glowing red led after a few hours.

 I have emailed ibasso about this and await there response. It seems there may be problems with the power indicators on a few units. While the audio side of things seems to be fantastic, it appears that the power supply might have a few teething problems, or there are quality control issues.

 Let's see what ibasso say this time, and whether their customer service (so far away!) are up to it.

 I'll keep you all posted....


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StevieDvd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes that's how I paid for mine which is at home waiting for me apparently
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great, great... now I just need to find some extra fund, and it'll all be good.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Actually... seeing all the problems with the LED lights going on and off, I'll wait for a while and leisurely gather my funds.

 Or... is the price going to go up in the near future?


----------



## jamato8

There could be a few blips with the new run as mentioned. I do know that in emailing with iBasso they are very concerned with quality and truly desire to have the best quality available, which I find refreshing. To date my unit has performed flawlessly.


----------



## jonesy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually... seeing all the problems with the LED lights going on and off, I'll wait for a while and leisurely gather my funds.

 Or... is the price going to go up in the near future?_

 


 Perhaps that's wise. Maybe they can't make them fast enough......


----------



## Dash

I hope those issues are isolated cause Im about to pull the trigger 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .


----------



## vDrag0n

just curiuos, how is the sq compared to say... a xin reference?


----------



## GiR

Just put in an order for one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 time to dust of my h120 ^^


----------



## Ricey20

from what has been said the xin reference still edges out very slightly in sq but doesnt offer nearly as much versatility


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ricey20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_from what has been said the xin reference still edges out very slightly in sq but doesnt offer nearly as much versatility_

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the reference's that have been mentioned are prototypes, not the final version. As such, conclusions can't be drawn with absolute certainty. Indications may be good but the final configuration may change.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the reference's that have been mentioned are prototypes, not the final version. As such, conclusions can't be drawn with absolute certainty. Indications may be good but the final configuration may change._

 

My Reference is the production unit, and sounds much better than the betas. It still sounds better than the D1, but with some opamp changes they are very close.


----------



## Dash

It doesn't seem that the D1 will be a FOTM. This thread contains well tempered opinions that help to create a since of validity with regard to the D1's capabilities. I appreciate the candor.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Reference is the production unit, and sounds much better than the betas. It still sounds better than the D1, but with some opamp changes they are very close._

 

When did you order / receive your reference? Hopefully mine is not too far behind.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When did you order / receive your reference? Hopefully mine is not too far behind._

 

That is one heck of an story, I will not spoil it for Ron.


----------



## Dash

Interest peaked now......story time.


----------



## bpfiguer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ricey20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so besides ebay where can one find some OPA2111KPs or even OPA2107APs? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The OPA2111KP (Newark Part Number: 96K4522) and the AD8397ARZ (Newark Part Number: 19M1201) are available at newark.com. I just got two AD8397ARZ from them (ordered on Sunday and received by Thursday).


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found the D1 to be open and unlike portables in the stock configuration. With the AD8066 and 8397's it has a smoother high frequency response and better bass. It is also more open and dynamic with the two mentioned opamps than the stock form but in stock it is still very good and everyone's taste is different. At this point the Xin Reference is the best amp I have heard but I would still be happy with the D1._

 



 guys, can give us a specific ranking review...


----------



## Ricey20

ah on newark tho the lead time for OPA2111s are 200+ days 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: Just checked again, they got 445 in stock right now for those that want to grab some of these 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Still gonna get some from Ron tho since im gonna get some 8397s with the adapter from him


----------



## jonesy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jonesy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had the same blue led problem and sent it back. I was sent a replacement before sending back the defective unit.

 As it turns out, the new unit also has problem on the power side of things: the charging led will not turn to green (meaning fully cahrged) BUT there is a faintly discernable flashing green led underneath the still-glowing red led after a few hours.

 I have emailed ibasso about this and await there response. It seems there may be problems with the power indicators on a few units. While the audio side of things seems to be fantastic, it appears that the power supply might have a few teething problems, or there are quality control issues.

 Let's see what ibasso say this time, and whether their customer service (so far away!) are up to it.

 I'll keep you all posted...._

 


 They're sending me a third D1. Let's hope it's third time lucky.......


----------



## globiboulga

Ok, I've now easily passed the 300 hours mark and the amp is really getting better and better (note I am using the 8066 and stock buffers):

 - highs have noticeably smoothed - that was my main pain point (sic) - they were way too bright before;
 - bass response is lots better, cleaner, punchier...

 It is still not up to the move level to my ears, but it's getting really close (and it might just be that I simply like the Move better).

 I had a moment of doubt about this amp after the 100 hours mark, but it's all gone. Brilliant.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Anyone know if the price will go up soon?


----------



## Denver Max

What do you guys think of this PCDP?

Phillips AZ9225

 It's the only one I can find online with optical out.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I've now easily passed the 300 hours mark and the amp is really getting better and better (note I am using the 8066 and stock buffers):

 - highs have noticeably smoothed - that was my main pain point (sic) - they were way too bright before;
 - bass response is lots better, cleaner, punchier...

 It is still not up to the move level to my ears, but it's getting really close (and it might just be that I simply like the Move better).

 I had a moment of doubt about this amp after the 100 hours mark, but it's all gone. Brilliant. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I was in exactly the same position. The brightness is a lot less like you said and I'd swear the soundstage shrank a little.

 Get a OPA2111 and drop it in for the AD823. I did it tonight and gave it a brief listen and it is *really* close to Move. Can't wait to get the buffers swapped out. This opamp rolling isn't half bad


----------



## globiboulga

Well, if it was easy to actually find the 2111 and the buffers already mounted on brown dogs, I would buy them immediatly... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But these are really hard to find


----------



## Ricey20

Ron is doin a kit thing for the D1 that comes with a OPA2111 and AD8397 mounted on brown dogs, might wanna shoot him a PM to see if u can get some. If you just need OPA2111s newark.com has 445 more in stock after 205 days, i might actually buy a bunch before its out again and have to wait 205 days again


----------



## kiwirugby

Apologies in advance for my ignorance here, but would there be a significant difference between a D-EJ2000 --> optical cable --> D1 compared to a D-EJ2000 --> mini-mini --> SuperMacro.

 My question is more about whether or not the line/optcial out is a true optical out, not about the difference between a D1 and a SuperMacro (and I understand there could be).

 Thanks.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kiwirugby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Apologies in advance for my ignorance here, but would there be a significant difference between a D-EJ2000 --> optical cable --> D1 compared to a D-EJ2000 --> mini-mini --> SuperMacro.

 My question is more about whether or not the line/optcial out is a true optical out, not about the difference between a D1 and a SuperMacro (and I understand there could be).

 Thanks._

 

Yes, the optical out of the D-EJ2000 is a true optical out, bypassing its on-board DAC.

 I can hear a rather substantial improvement when listening to the D-EJ2000 amplified by my desktop Heed CanAmp through the DAC of the D1 as opposed to straight line out of the CD player. Bass is fuller, exhibiting greater authority while the mids gain additional body and the treble begins to sparkle. Soundstage improves as well and I get an overall better sense of coherence and realism. 

 And the same holds true when listening to my MacBook through either optical out or USB. Soon, I'll get around to testing the D1's coaxial input against my Njoe Tjoeb CD player in my loudspeaker rig. This iBasso is just so versatile. For its small size and relatively modest price, I think the DAC section alone on the D1 is quite impressive!


----------



## nc8000

I have not tried the D-EJ2000 with the D1 (just sold mine) but I use a D-EN920 with it and the sq goes up quite a lot going optical vs. line-out. I discorvered this during the summer when I tried the pcdp optical with dennyL's Berensford dac. I have been using the pcdp line-out to the Xin Reference up til getting the D1. With > 200 hours on the D1 I don't think the amp part is quite up to the Reference but that could change with the arrival of my hiflight chip set (at least in Ron's oppinion it is close) and getting away with just one box instead of two will be a bonus. The Reference has the replaced my SuperMini in my portable iMod rig.


----------



## luidge

Who is Ron? (his username) and what Opamps would be the less noisy to use with my E500? Are the Opa2111 too powerfull for beign dead quiet? Let me know if you have a little idea cause i might buy the kit from Ron at the same time i buy my D1.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, the optical out of the D-EJ2000 is a true optical out, bypassing its on-board DAC.

 I can hear a rather substantial improvement when listening to the D-EJ2000 amplified by my desktop Heed CanAmp through the DAC of the D1 as opposed to straight line out of the CD player. Bass is fuller, exhibiting greater authority while the mids gain additional body and the treble begins to sparkle. Soundstage improves as well and I get an overall better sense of coherence and realism. 

 And the same holds true when listening to my MacBook through either optical out or USB. Soon, I'll get around to testing the D1's coaxial input against my Njoe Tjoeb CD player in my loudspeaker rig. This iBasso is just so versatile. For its small size and relatively modest price, I think the DAC section alone on the D1 is quite impressive! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks, Dex. Really helpful as usual, and so gracious to an ignoramus!

 I am not quite sure of the configuration your talking about above, so please bear with me. Is your set up like this:

 D-EJ2000 --> D1 --> Heed CanAmp? 

 Or are the latter two reversed:

 D-EJ2000 --> Heed CanAmp --> D1? 

 If the latter, the Heed CanAmp receives an optical signal?

 Sorry to be such a pest!


----------



## luidge

Since heed have no digital inputs it is certainly the D1 then the Heed, no need to be sorry, we are all here to learn hehe


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luidge* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since heed have no digital inputs it is certainly the D1 then the Heed, no need to be sorry, we are all here to learn hehe_

 

Merci! Vous etes tres gentile!


----------



## luidge

Gentil since i am a guy hehe
 Thank you, my pleasure really.


----------



## Dash

So the D1 amp portion is a solid "portable" in the stock config?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kiwirugby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am not quite sure of the configuration your talking about above, so please bear with me. Is your set up like this:

 D-EJ2000 --> D1 --> Heed CanAmp? 
_

 

Indeed I was speaking about D-EJ2000 --> D1 --> Heed CanAmp, just as an illustration of the effectiveness of the D1's DAC capabilities.

 But most of the time these days, the CanAmp resides happily with my larger components (CDP, DVD, turntable, home cinema, etc.) in my living room loudspeaker system.

 Since the D1's amplifier is no slouch and most satisfying in its own way, my desktop set-up is now generally MacBook or D-EJ2000 --> D1.

 But, of course, I'll also get around to directly comparing the D1 to the CanAmp (strictly as amplifiers) in both environments.


----------



## luidge

If the stock D1 can sound better than the canamp i am buying one right now and that's for sure!!! But this shouldn't be the case hehe. So someone can tell me who is Ron?


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Indeed I was speaking about D-EJ2000 --> D1 --> Heed CanAmp, just as an illustration of the effectiveness of the D1's DAC capabilities.

 But most of the time these days, the CanAmp resides happily with my larger components (CDP, DVD, turntable, home cinema, etc.) in my living room loudspeaker system.

 Since the D1's amplifier is no slouch and most satisfying in its own way, my desktop set-up is now generally MacBook or D-EJ2000 --> D1.

 But, of course, I'll also get around to directly comparing the D1 to the CanAmp (strictly as amplifiers) in both environments. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks, Dex. Brilliant!

 You have a great setup there.

 I fear I am ready to pull the trigger on the D1. My wallet just ran out of the house!

 I guess I will have to try the D1 with and without the SuperMacro. Oh, how I suffer!

 You have been so helpful......and patient! Many thanks.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luidge* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gentil since i am a guy hehe
 Thank you, my pleasure really._

 

Je m'excuse!


----------



## luidge

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kiwirugby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Je m'excuse!_

 






 Hey i hope you are gonna do a SuperMacro / D1 review when youll get you D1. I am gonna get a Xin Reference somewhere in 2007 (i wish) so the 2 way review could be really usefull. Hope we will love our D1 hehe


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luidge* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If the stock D1 can sound better than the canamp i am buying one right now and that's for sure!!! But this shouldn't be the case hehe. So someone can tell me who is Ron? _

 

Ron is HiFlight. 

 I find the Xin Reference a little more open and free flowing compared to the D1 but the D1 is excellent in its own right. I have stated this before, I find that that the D1 is not like a portable but has the sound of a larger more robust home amp.


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have stated this before, I find that that the D1 is not like a portable but has the sound of a larger more robust home amp._

 

Given the D1's size.......

 [size=xx-small]Just kidding 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





[/size]


----------



## mrarroyo

My D1 has 95 hours of burn in and it is sound gorgeous. Currently I am feeding it Apple Lossless files via a Chaintech AV710 > Optical Cable > stock iBasso D1> AKG K501

 Oustanding soudstage, great extension in both directions although more noticable in the upper registers, very clear and dynamic amp.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

I ordered form the site mentioned before OPA2111 and AD8397 (even though I didn't order my D1 yet)

 I just want to ask, how do I go about making a brown dog adapter? I know I saw someone post it before but I can't find it.


----------



## justhavingfun

You can purchase brown dog adapter from Tangentsoft website. (http://www.tangentsoft.net/shop/) as well as (http://cimarrontechnology.com/).


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I ordered form the site mentioned before OPA2111 and AD8397 (even though I didn't order my D1 yet)

 I just want to ask, how do I go about making a brown dog adapter? I know I saw someone post it before but I can't find it._

 

http://www.cimarrontechnology.com/in...ATS&Category=5

 There is soldering required. A small tip, hot and fast and careful placement.


----------



## Dexdexter

Anyone looking for an excuse to utilize the D1's Coaxial input capabilities could probably do worse than takin' one for the team by pre-ordering the forthcoming 120GB Pacemaker pocket-size DJ system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *OverlordXenu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Things confirmed via their site and emails to them: It has digital out, through the line-out jack, via coaxial.

 Not to mention its line-out is supposed to be a real line out.

 And since it's meant as a dj'ing tool, I think it has an EQ.

 It does have a 120gig HDD (maybe they'll up it to 160gigs?), and it does cost 520 euros, but it sounds promising.

http://www.pacemaker.net/Default.asp...35&entryID=118

 Read there. It really sounds amazing, it sounds perfect for everyone here that doesn't mind a little bulk._

 

The Pacemaker thread can be found HERE.


----------



## jamato8

Too rich for my blood. I like optical out anyway though some prefer a good coax digital out but I think it depends upon your cable.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Too rich for my blood._

 

Mine too, sadly, but nonetheless it's encouraging that something like this is emerging and hopefully the concept will eventually trickle-down into affordability.


----------



## HiFlight

I think I will just hold onto my iRiver H120..its optical out sounds just stunning thru the D1 optical in!


----------



## Dash

I think its time. I will order tonite. I sold my whole rig. I need a source (besides my Ipod) and an amp. Hope there is decent synergy with Grado's.


----------



## yuheng

is the h120 still available? pretty interested.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *justhavingfun* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can purchase brown dog adapter from Tangentsoft website. (http://www.tangentsoft.net/shop/) as well as (http://cimarrontechnology.com/)._

 

given with this websites, what should i buy actualy?

 2 x SO-8 op-amp adapter for replacement of ne5532 with 2 unit of ad8397 isnt it?

 so i will have to pruchases 2 x SO-8 op-amp adapter, 2x AD8397??

 sorry, noob here


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_is the h120 still available? pretty interested._

 

They are often available on Ebay.


----------



## Dash

Payment sent. Soon to be D1 owner.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_given with this websites, what should i buy actualy?

 2 x SO-8 op-amp adapter for replacement of ne5532 with 2 unit of ad8397 isnt it?

 so i will have to pruchases 2 x SO-8 op-amp adapter, 2x AD8397??

 sorry, noob here 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, you are correct, 2 opamps and 2 adapters. Order this adapter:

http://www.cimarrontechnology.com/in...PROD&ProdID=12


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, you are correct, 2 opamps and 2 adapters. Order this adapter:

http://www.cimarrontechnology.com/in...PROD&ProdID=12_

 

okok, so the adaptor parts is dip one...

 is it ad8397 is soic one...so u have to put this browndog, if there is some opa such as LM4562, it is ald MDIP....which i mean it fit to the socket..then we dont even need browndog rite?....

 thks for explanation.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Thanks to my D1, I bought TWO iH120 and TWO Sony PCDP with optical out, even though I already had a portable DVD with COAX out. One always needs a spare when one relies on something not easily available and with no warrantee.


----------



## Capunk

Been curious all this time, how does actually the D1 amp perform? 
 My friend keep asking me all the time, does this amp able to drive high impedance headphones (like HD600, 650), what's the highest impedance output this amp could drive? 600 ohm capable?


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks to my D1, I bought TWO iH120 and TWO Sony PCDP with optical out, even though I already had a portable DVD with COAX out. One always needs a spare when one relies on something not easily available and with no warrantee._

 



 wanna let go ur h120, been looking for it


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Not right now, sorry. Certainly I will have a sealed in the box refurbished to sell when I get an iH140 at a decent price.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not right now, sorry. Certainly I will have a sealed in the box refurbished to sell when I get an iH140 at a decent price._

 

when u wan to sell, pls do remember pm me ok?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Been curious all this time, how does actually the D1 amp perform? 
 My friend keep asking me all the time, does this amp able to drive high impedance headphones (like HD600, 650), what's the highest impedance output this amp could drive? 600 ohm capable?_

 

My D1 drives the AKG701s and HD60s to a much higher level than my ears can safely tolerate!!!! There is lots of volume to spare.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luidge* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 Hey i hope you are gonna do a SuperMacro / D1 review when youll get you D1. I am gonna get a Xin Reference somewhere in 2007 (i wish) so the 2 way review could be really usefull. Hope we will love our D1 hehe_

 

I'll have a few options to compare:

 Optical --> D1 --> SuperMacro --> 880s or 501s

 Optical --> D1 --> SuperMicro

 Analogue (D-EJ2000 or iMod) --> using the above

 Optical and analogue --> D1 --> headphones above.


 D1 order going in tomorrow...


----------



## visia

Compared AD8066-2XAD8397 to AD8599-2XAD8397 today. I agree with HiFlight, I like AD8599 a bit better, it sounds a little smoother than 8066.
 OPA2111 and solid tube should be here soon


----------



## luidge

Ok i am pretty confident i am gonna pull the trigger on this one. So what should be the best opamp for the D1? OPA2111 with what?


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My D1 drives the AKG701s and HD60s to a much higher level than my ears can safely tolerate!!!! There is lots of volume to spare._

 

X2, currently my D1 is driving my Senn HD580 very nicely. The volume pot is at +/-8 o'clock. The source is iTunes via Chaintech AV710 to optical cable to D1.


----------



## luidge

Ok after a long search through this long thread i found my answers, OPA2111 with two AD8397 for the buffer it will be.

 Is iBasso really located in Canada? If so that would be awesome for me (no custom fees!) 

 Also how did you guys order the smallest package with only the adapter? Ill try to contact them directly to put my order, hope it will give good result.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luidge* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok after a long search through this long thread i found my answers, OPA2111 with two AD8397 for the buffer it will be.

 Is iBasso really located in Canada? If so that would be awesome for me (no custom fees!) 

 Also how did you guys order the smallest package with only the adapter? Ill try to contact them directly to put my order, hope it will give good result._

 

iBasso is a Chinese Company.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *visia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Compared AD8066-2XAD8397 to AD8599-2XAD8397 today. I agree with HiFlight, I like AD8599 a bit better, it sounds a little smoother than 8066.
 OPA2111 and solid tube should be here soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nice! How many hours do you have on your D1 at the moment? In what ways did you find the AD8066-2XAD8397 / AD8599-2XAD8397 combos to be improved over the stock configuration?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luidge* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is iBasso really located in Canada? If so that would be awesome for me (no custom fees!) _

 

iBasso seem to be pretty good about filling out the customs form as low-value "samples". I didn't pay any duty on my D1.


----------



## visia

I'd say ~70-80 hours. I did not really compare to stock, I just went straight to 8066 and 8599 based on other opinions and it sounds really good. At this point, I would say D1 provides a bit better clarity and sounstage compared to SuperMini, which is quite good.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice! How many hours do you have on your D1 at the moment? In what ways did you find the AD8066-2XAD8397 / AD8599-2XAD8397 combos to be improved over the stock configuration?_


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_iBasso seem to be pretty good about filling out the customs form as low-value "samples". I didn't pay any duty on my D1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Neither did I


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks to my D1, I bought TWO iH120 and TWO Sony PCDP with optical out, even though I already had a portable DVD with COAX out. One always needs a spare when one relies on something not easily available and with no warrantee._

 

I have two H140s and a H120 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .


----------



## rhymesgalore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_iBasso seem to be pretty good about filling out the customs form as low-value "samples". I didn't pay any duty on my D1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

This works as long as the customs agent doesn't suspect, that what's in the package is worth more than whats written on it.

 I'm referring to a case in the german hifi forum, where someone ordered a D1, and the custom agent didn't believe it to be a "USB soundcard" worth 20€........


_[size=xx-small]PS: And i wouldn't shout it out loud, because although we all like to save some bucks it's basically tax fraud.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 [/size]_


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, not the 8616, it is for the dac. I am talking about the amp section. Bypass the first dual and put the 8397 in the two output sockets._

 


 Jamato8 and HiFlight have you tried the 8656 in place of the 8616. I find the sound of the 8656 to be punchier and more detail with a sense of clarity the 8616 lacks. Thanks.


----------



## jamato8

I have around 6 or 7 of the Sony portables with optical out, just for insurance since they are no longer made. All of them seem to perform the same with a slight preference to the Sony 303, but it really isn't portable as in walk around and they are very touchy with regards to going out of adjustment.

 The D1 has over 400 hours on it now and is sounding even finer. A very open and relaxed buy dynamic soundstage, when music is recorded well. Chet Bakers last recordings sound very open and true to what I would think the sound was like. With the PROline 750's and even the Koss PortaPros, the sound is fun, natural, open and dynamic with well controlled bass and extension from low to high frequencies. This is with the 8066, and two 8397's.

 I have the 8599 but not solder to an adapter right now and no place to do it. I hope to give a listen soon.


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *visia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Compared AD8066-2XAD8397 to AD8599-2XAD8397 today. I agree with HiFlight, I like AD8599 a bit better, it sounds a little smoother than 8066.
 OPA2111 and solid tube should be here soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think more people should give AD8599 a try, in any amp. It's cheap and doesn't seem cranky at all. I've posted this in the DIY section: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=259270
 Like I said, it's bloody good.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think more people should give AD8599 a try, in any amp. It's cheap and doesn't seem cranky at all. I've posted this in the DIY section: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=259270
 Like I said, it's bloody good._

 

The AD8599 is a fine sounding opamp, very low noise and superb square-wave response. It has sounded very good in everything I have tried it in. 

 I might give it a try in place of the DAC 8616. So far, I have been concentrating on the LR opamp and buffers. I have found nothing yet that surpasses the AD8397 for buffers. There are about 4 or 5 opamps that sound really good in the LR. The choice will ultimately be one of personal preference.


----------



## Capunk

Ok, I just got this baby this morning. 

 Let me write a few initial impression, 
 This is my first actual headphone amp, and I'm expecting alot from this mini portable amp/dac. So it begin with a few confusion how to set USB output in my PC, and setting up ASIO4ALL. 

 But since my impatient behavior, I refuse to recharge it first before use 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, and I really want to get quick impression, before I breaking in this box. 
 So using standard mini cable, and my iPod 4th Gen/apple dock line out, and open up "Hillsong - Hosanna" song (I promise to God and to myself - this would be the 1st song I play tru this amp), and sadly, I don't really like it at all.

 Then still using same configuration, I choose the next song Rachmaninov - Piano Concerto No.2 - and result still the same... too flat and less dynamic. 
 I was immediately surrounded by fear and guilt - afraid of buying wrong item. (this thing isn't cheap for an uni student). 

 So I proceed to "Computer as source" forum, and find "ASIO4ALL explanation" post to get the USB input work in my PC. And I get it right this time, so using Foobar 2K, ASIO4ALL and USB input, this would be my first time to use DAC of this D1. 

 And I load up my Rachmaninov CD, and play the similar track "Piano Concerto No.2" - and I click "Play" button, and turn the volume knob to 12'o clock.

 oh my God... I was immediately lift up to different level of listening music, I felt goosebumps around my hand, I never heard Rachmaninov this lively... so Dynamic, and fluid... is this what all people here feel when they got the first decent rig? 

 Surprisingly I turn the volume knob almost to 3'o clock, does this D1 aren't capable to drive my Denon D2000 well? but at 2'o clock, the volume is decent and fit my head well. 

 my God, I'm surprised. 
 I fall in love.


----------



## luidge

So you seem to love the DAC but not the amp? I find it pretty unusual, i hope that burn in will resolve your problem with the Amplification part.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The AD8599 is a fine sounding opamp, very low noise and superb square-wave response. It has sounded very good in everything I have tried it in. 

 I might give it a try in place of the DAC 8616. So far, I have been concentrating on the LR opamp and buffers. I have found nothing yet that surpasses the AD8397 for buffers. There are about 4 or 5 opamps that sound really good in the LR. The choice will ultimately be one of personal preference._

 

Ron, I am confused. Do you replace the AD823 with one AD8397? Or are you replacing the two NE5532 with two AD8397? If the second what do you use for the AD823?

 Now as far as the 8616 have you thought of the 8656? Thanks.


----------



## Ricey20

he switches the 823 with the OPA2111 and the 2 NE5532 with the AD8397


----------



## luidge

Ok i just pulled the trigger for a simple package D1! I even could pay in CAD wich save me lot of paypal fees, their custommers support seem to be great so far! I hope their amps are as great hehe


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luidge* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok i just pulled the trigger for a simple package D1! I even could pay in CAD wich save me lot of paypal fees, their custommers support seem to be great so far! I hope their amps are as great hehe_

 

They are!


----------



## Ricey20

are there any other amps around the same price range with digital inputs/outputs?


----------



## MoAv

Just bought one with over $2000 in debt at my bank, that's how much power you guys have over me.
 Now it's been a day from payment and haven't got any reply over the email from them. When should I get the tracking number or acknowledgment about the purchase ?


----------



## Computerstud

@Jamato / HiFlight / or anyone with a Xin Reference and the D1.

 How does the D1 DAC --> Xin Reference sound?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Computerstud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@Jamato / HiFlight / or anyone with a Xin Reference and the D1.

 How does the D1 DAC --> Xin Reference sound?_

 

It sound superb! The Reference is truly the "reference" of portable amps. 
 With opamp changes, the D1 amp section is VERY close to the Reference. One isn't necessarily better than the other, just a little bit of difference in imaging and soundstage.

 The D1 and Reference are complementary to each other, I would hate to have to choose between the 2.


----------



## HiFlight

The following opamps are those I have found to work particularly well in the D1, using the AD8397 as buffers. They are not necessarily listed in order of my personal preference, as each individual likely has differing tastes.

 OPA2111 (DIP) Wide, expansive soundfield.
 LT1364 (DIP) Very detailed, exceptional midrange. 
 AD8066 (SOIC) Strong lower end of the audio freq. range.
 AD8599 (SOIC) Very well balanced. Very listenable.
 LTC6241HV (SOIC) Most tube-like, definitive bass. Somewhat narrower soundfield.


----------



## Computerstud

HiFlight, are you running the D1 dac to the Xin Reference? If you are can you describe the synergy? 
 I apologize for my poor English but I didn't quite understand whether you were referring to the D1 DAC feeding the Xin Reference or just the Xin Reference by itself sounding superb in your reply.


----------



## jamato8

There seems to be a very fine compliment between the D1 dac and the Xin Reference. The sound is very open, natural and free flowing. I enjoy the amp section in the D1 very much but the Reference, to me, is just a little more open and has qualities all unto itself of being a true reference, like a fine intrument. One amp may please others more than the other. I find that the D1 amp is also a very fine amp, as stated in the past in this thread and is more like a good home amp than a portable.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Computerstud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HiFlight, are you running the D1 dac to the Xin Reference? If you are can you describe the synergy? 
 I apologize for my poor English but I didn't quite understand whether you were referring to the D1 DAC feeding the Xin Reference or just the Xin Reference by itself sounding superb in your reply._

 

D1 DAC output to Reference sounds superb. The Reference with its own analog input also is a fine-sounding amp.


----------



## tracyrick

HiFlight, what is the change in sound of running: H120>Xin amp vs. H120>D1 (DAC only) > Xin amp? Does the DAC noticeably improve the sound?


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The following opamps are those I have found to work particularly well in the D1, using the AD8397 as buffers. They are not necessarily listed in order of my personal preference, as each individual likely has differing tastes.

 OPA2111 (DIP) Wide, expansive soundfield.
 LT1364 (SOIC) Very detailed, exceptional midrange. 
 AD8066 (SOIC) Strong lower end of the audio freq. range.
 AD8599 (SOIC) Very well balanced. Very listenable.
 LTC6241HV (DIP) Most tube-like, definitive bass. Somewhat narrower soundfield._

 

There seems to be a lot of variations on the LTC6241HV out there. Do you think it makes any difference other than packaging which one you get?


----------



## mrarroyo

Tomorrow I am scheduled to receive the replacement D1 from iBasso. For those that do not remember it will replace the one I have had since 9/4 and on which the blue light on the front panel stoped working before the 12 hour mark. Excellent customer service by iBasso. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The funny/sad thing is that the blue ligth started working today on its own. ??? Besides a gremlin, any idea why a light that went out a week ago just started working w/o any work done to it? I mean I feel bad that iBasso spent money to send me a new D1 and the one I have starts working on its own 24 hours before the arrival of its replacement. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There seems to be a lot of variations on the LTC6241HV out there. Do you think it makes any difference other than packaging which one you get?_

 

No, they sound the same. I would just order the PDIP configuration, as they are plug and play, with no adapter or soldering required.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoAv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just bought one with over $2000 in debt at my bank, that's how much power you guys have over me.
 Now it's been a day from payment and haven't got any reply over the email from them. When should I get the tracking number or acknowledgment about the purchase ?_

 

About 3 days at least.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, they sound the same. I would just order the PDIP configuration, as they are plug and play, with no adapter or soldering required._

 

The LT1364 is available in PDIP and the LTC6241HV is SOIC or DFN, from LT anyway.


----------



## cyanbomb

*sobs*
 My wallet lies trembling on my table... he knows I cannot resist the D1.
Optical in.
 USB in.
 Cirrus Logic's flagship chip.
 All-alum construction.

 I'm ordering one tomorrow. *sigh*


----------



## luidge

congrats! This aluminium beast will be in love with our laptop / desktop i am sure of it.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The LT1364 is available in PDIP and the LTC6241HV is SOIC or DFN, from LT anyway._

 

You are right! I read them wrong in poor lighting. Good catch!


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tomorrow I am scheduled to receive the replacement D1 from iBasso. For those that do not remember it will replace the one I have had since 9/4 and on which the blue light on the front panel stoped working before the 12 hour mark. Excellent customer service by iBasso. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The funny/sad thing is that the blue ligth started working today on its own. ??? Besides a gremlin, any idea why a light that went out a week ago just started working w/o any work done to it? I mean I feel bad that iBasso spent money to send me a new D1 and the one I have starts working on its own 24 hours before the arrival of its replacement. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks._

 

Do you have to send the defective one back? If not, I'll take it off your hands gladly. Haha.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cyanbomb* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*sobs*
 My wallet lies trembling on my table... he knows I cannot resist the D1.
Optical in.
 USB in.
 Cirrus Logic's flagship chip.
 All-alum construction.

 I'm ordering one tomorrow. *sigh* 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, reading this web site is a serious drain on the budget. But don't worry, the sound you get with one of these driving a good set of cans is up there with a very fine 2 channel system. And those cost MUCH more. Of course now you will want to upgrade your stereo if you don't already have a good one.

 My problem is I want another head amp for the office now. The D1 I have at home has spoiled me.

 What the hell, you can't take it with you...


----------



## Schalldampfer

Say me, how much of an improvement is the D1 over the Total BitHead?


----------



## luidge

Just bought a iRiver H140 for my iBasso hehe i hope they will sing together! Ill let you know in a week or so. Thank you guys for all the info and all.


----------



## luidge

One little question here, the optical out on the iRiver is 1/8? If so where can i find a good mini to toslink cable for fairly cheap? I knopw mono price would do that but if there is another link for a little more but provide better quality i am all open.


----------



## Capunk

I think Dexdexter mention some good mini to toslink cable in back couple pages before... check it out. The one which you can select the color ^^
 While I just got my one from local electronic store here, price wasn't cheap, but not too expensive... they run fine.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luidge* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One little question here, the optical out on the iRiver is 1/8? If so where can i find a good mini to toslink cable for fairly cheap? I knopw mono price would do that but if there is another link for a little more but provide better quality i am all open._

 

These have been recommended a few times in this very thread:


 SysConcept

 And, lucky you, they're located in Canada! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Congrats on the pending new arrivals.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Wow. The guy at the UPS store thought I paid $70 bucks each for these cables. They are very well made, look expensive, blah blah blah... Highly recommend SysConcept even more!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luidge* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just bought a iRiver H140 for my iBasso hehe i hope they will sing together! Ill let you know in a week or so. Thank you guys for all the info and all._

 

Yeah, I just added an H140 to my two refurbished H120's (one still sealed in box).


----------



## jamato8

I have been using the SysConcept for a few years and they work hard to work with you and get you what you need, that is why I always recommend them. I love the quality both in sound (good transmission) and looks. They will even reinforce the cables for you. I have about 8 different lengths from mini to mini and mini to toslink. The aluminum colored ends are nice also. Yes, they do look like they would cost much more and they perform that way also.


----------



## nv88

Quote:


 Just bought a iRiver H140 for my iBasso hehe i hope they will sing together! Ill let you know in a week or so. Thank you guys for all the info and all. 
 

Can someone share the source for the iRiver H120/140s? I've got a H120, but would like to pick up a H140 as well. Are these refurbished or old new stock?


----------



## luidge

Mine was a used one i bought on ebay so no stocked, sorry.


----------



## GiR

I just dug out my old h120 in anticipation of getting my D1 (currently shipping 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) and realised i must have somehow thrown out the remote for it (or lost it) when moving house, as its nowhere to be found. Anyone know of any suitable replacemnts / where to get them? (sorry for the semi derail)


----------



## OverlordXenu

ebay, the remotes are like $10 I think.


----------



## jonesy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tomorrow I am scheduled to receive the replacement D1 from iBasso. For those that do not remember it will replace the one I have had since 9/4 and on which the blue light on the front panel stoped working before the 12 hour mark. Excellent customer service by iBasso. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The funny/sad thing is that the blue ligth started working today on its own. ??? Besides a gremlin, any idea why a light that went out a week ago just started working w/o any work done to it? I mean I feel bad that iBasso spent money to send me a new D1 and the one I have starts working on its own 24 hours before the arrival of its replacement. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks._

 

Don't feel bad. The same happened with mine, but then it went off again just before I sent it back. They are about to send my third D1 (think of the shipping costs!). My second one also had a different led problem. They say they have had very poor quality leds supplied and this has now been seen to. 

 These are very basic things that should work.

 Having said that, they could teach a lot of much bigger companies about customer service, despite the long distances involved.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, I just added an H140 to my two refurbished H120's (one still sealed in box). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

so do u wan to let go one h120 to me.


----------



## Lad27

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nv88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone share the source for the iRiver H120/140s? I've got a H120, but would like to pick up a H140 as well. Are these refurbished or old new stock?_

 

I got lucky to get my second H140 from this forum, another possible source is MisticRiver forums: http://www.misticriver.net/forums.php.

 They used to be available in large numbers (mostly used) on eBay, but about a year ago they disappeared and it is very hard to find one.

 Good luck. And nothing's stopping you to put up WTB H140 on FS forum here, that's how I got mine.


----------



## HiFlight

I have felt for some time that the DAC of the D1 sounded brighter than I preferred. Some types of music sounded rather shrill in the treble, so I spent some time trying various opamps in the DAC socket. Most demonstrated little or no refinement over the OEM AD8616. 

 I finally gave the AD8656 a try. What a remarkable improvement! Much fuller sound, well-defined bass with smooth natural treble. Very nice soundstage. I highly recommend this opamp as a replacement for the 8616.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

yuheng, I'll PM you but there might be one person ahead of you, unless this your second time to ask...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Hah - yuheng you were the other person interested, and the second time to ask.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...&postcount=981


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have felt for some time that the DAC of the D1 sounded brighter than I preferred. Some types of music sounded rather shrill in the treble, so I spent some time trying various opamps in the DAC socket. Most demonstrated little or no refinement over the OEM AD8616. 

 I finally gave the AD8656 a try. What a remarkable improvement! Much fuller sound, well-defined bass with smooth natural treble. Very nice soundstage. I highly recommend this opamp as a replacement for the 8616._

 

Cool! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ron, is the AD8656 SOIC or DIP-8?


----------



## luidge

Wow another update! The D1 is really full of surprise! I can't wait to receive mine. I don't know if i will be able to buy all of the components right away as i just bought a Lavry DA10 but maybe next week


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ron, is the AD8656 SOIC or DIP-8?_

 

It is an SOIC and needs to be mounted on an adapter. To clear the SMD caps on the end and sides of the socket, there also needs to be a standoff installed. I had a spare adapter, but the easiest and cheapest is a Radio Shack low profile DIP socket. A pack of 3 is only about a dollar. The Browndog plugs into the DIP socket, then the 2 are plugged as a unit into the D1 socket.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have felt for some time that the DAC of the D1 sounded brighter than I preferred. Some types of music sounded rather shrill in the treble, so I spent some time trying various opamps in the DAC socket. Most demonstrated little or no refinement over the OEM AD8616. 

 I finally gave the AD8656 a try. What a remarkable improvement! Much fuller sound, well-defined bass with smooth natural treble. Very nice soundstage. I highly recommend this opamp as a replacement for the 8616._

 

What about the AD8066 - vs the AD8656? Jamato8 seems to like that one in the AMP, maybe it will do well in the DAC too. I've that extra one too.

 However, if all the listening is with the HD600's, I think the high end will be a bonus.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have felt for some time that the DAC of the D1 sounded brighter than I preferred. Some types of music sounded rather shrill in the treble, so I spent some time trying various opamps in the DAC socket. Most demonstrated little or no refinement over the OEM AD8616. 

 I finally gave the AD8656 a try. What a remarkable improvement! Much fuller sound, well-defined bass with smooth natural treble. Very nice soundstage. I highly recommend this opamp as a replacement for the 8616._

 

Ron, remember that email I sent you? In it I described how much better the 8656 sounded in the Supermacro LE versus the 8616. Glad you gave it a try, now please bring a second one with you Saturday so we can install it in my D1.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What about the AD8066 - vs the AD8656? Jamato8 seems to like that one.

 However, if all the listening is with the HD600's, I think the high end will be a bonus._

 

John is using the 8066 in the LR, not the DAC. The 8066 is a good sounding opamp. It is in my top 5. IMHO, it does not have enough output current for optimum results in the DAC amp.


----------



## bpfiguer

Could you please provide the cat. # of the Radio Shack low profile DIP socket?

 Thanks,

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is an SOIC and needs to be mounted on an adapter. To clear the SMD caps on the end and sides of the socket, there also needs to be a standoff installed. I had a spare adapter, but the easiest and cheapest is a Radio Shack low profile DIP socket. A pack of 3 is only about a dollar. The Browndog plugs into the DIP socket, then the 2 are plugged as a unit into the D1 socket._


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is an SOIC and needs to be mounted on an adapter. To clear the SMD caps on the end and sides of the socket, there also needs to be a standoff installed. I had a spare adapter, but the easiest and cheapest is a Radio Shack low profile DIP socket. A pack of 3 is only about a dollar. The Browndog plugs into the DIP socket, then the 2 are plugged as a unit into the D1 socket._

 


 Is this the low profile Dip Socket you are referring to.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search


 Back to the LR Opamp
 Also what do you think of the LTC6241HV vs LTC8241HVCS8 you have mentioned both as being very tube like, which do you think is beter?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is this the low profile Dip Socket you are referring to.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search


 Back to the LR Opamp
 Also what do you think of the LTC6241HV vs LTC8241HVCS8 you have mentioned both as being very tube like, which do you think is beter?_

 

The socket part of the adapter looks the same, except mine have straight legs. Those in the picture look bent somewhat. I would also imagine that Browndog has standoffs on their website also. 

 The LTC 8241 was a typo. There is no such animal. The LTC6241HV is the same as the HVCS8. My first 2 D1 choices are still the OPA2111 and the AD8599.


----------



## Haile

I was thinking about ordering the iBasso D1 for the Beyerdynamic DT770/80 headphones. Does anybody have any experience with listening to this combo? I am not particularly picky about the sound quality, as long as it doesn't sound horrendous. I thought this would be a perfect entry level buy because I don't have a DAC or amp yet.

 I'm also wondering by chance if anybody has a Zhalou DAC to compare the iBasso DAC to. If anybody could answer 1 or both of the questions, I would be quite pleased. Just a new head-fi'er trying to attain my first headphone nirvana.

 Haile


----------



## yuheng

i have the same doubt as well
 i have zl , but my d1 hvnt arrived....canot do comparison.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_John is using the 8066 in the LR, not the DAC. The 8066 is a good sounding opamp. It is in my top 5. IMHO, it does not have enough output current for optimum results in the DAC amp._

 

Wow, I posted my edit that made it clear that I knew we were talking about the DAC almost a full 30 minutes before you posted with my original note quoted. 

 How'd you manage to fo that?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

The items in red represent my first edit 10/25/07 of this post since I wrote it 6 weeks ago. A lot has changed since then. One - I discovered that with new opamps the stock D1 isn't as good as I thought, but until I heard better I couldn't know that. Two - as the amps burn-in things change. Three - I am discovering the value of a GOOD interconnect cable, and without one (that is as good or better than the internal interconnect between the D1 DAc and AMP) that comparisons may not be accurate when plugging other amps into the DAC.

 Okay, 

 I spent about 2 more hours A/B testing the iBasso at over 275 hours vs my 150 hour Penguin Royal, and 720 hour Tomahawk. I used my E500's and ER6i's with the Sony D-EJ2000, with optical out, line out, and headphone out. I listened to Jazz at the Pawnshop, Tord Gustavson Trio "Being there" and Al Dimeola Chaos. I don't have any lossless DAP files yet, so I didn't use a DAP for this. Here are a few areas where I noticed the most change. 

 I started with using only the iBasso amp section.

*Soundstage*: the iBasso sounds the best, the most open, most "realistic" - It was a hair better than the Tomahawk, which was a bit nicer than the Penguin. The Tomahawk was my reference up to this point as far as "how good is the soundstage and imaging and presence on this new amp, or these new headphones."

*Bass response*: The iBasso finally beats the Tomahawk, and so does the Penguin which has changed a lot in 24 hours so it might not stay there. Yes, "the penguin has grown some balls in the past 24 hours". The D1 is so tight and controlled with details using the E500's, ER6i and HD600's, and yet not overpowering either. Meanwhile, the Penguin was actually a little too much on some material (same caps as the Hornet non-M so it needs 250 more hours), and the Tomahawk remained powerful but more neutral/still adequate. The Penguin did indeed level out, and after 350 hours had very good bass without being too much. The Tomahawk just needed a good ALO Jumbo Cryo X Silver LOD to produce awsome bass, but I don't have a high quality interconnect with 3.5mm connector on each end - will try to get one later.

*Upper mids:* As I've posted before, the ER6i with pianos have been piercing or painful to me with certain recordings. The CMoy bass boost seemed to tame a bit of that early on, vs the other amps, while adding in some of the missing bass. The piercing improved over time, seeming like burn-in was helping them. But. the iBasso and Penguin are less harsh with the ER6i now, but the Tomahawk doesn't seem to like these earphones. NOTE: when I first switched to DAC optical input from EJ2000 pcdp I almost thought the ER6i grew another woofer! The D1 really makes these tiny ER6i a keeper. The E500 and HD600 seem to like the D1 just as much. 

*Highs:* Cymbals seem to "float" in the air better than the Penguin, and just as well as with the Tomahawk. I don't have any issues or problems with sibalance (sp?). The edge to brass instruments in classical, and strings when the bow drags across them are just right, they sound like they can "cut but not hack at you". Don't know how else to describe this. Interestingly, the E500 with supposedly "rolled off highs" did better with this than the HD600's with 250 hours on them.It appears there is indeed a synergy between the stock opamps and the SE500's, that is not there with the HD600. With different opamps OPA2111/AD8397, the HD600 clearly benefit from the improved sound signature, while not hurting the sound with the SE500's.

*LINE-OUT to AMP VS Optical to DAC*: WOW!! Okay, I did all the above with just the amp sections, and I used headphone out and line-out. While I have previously been happy with headphone out, it was clear that the line out was better than headphone out. I don't think I could hear a difference in the ALO cryodock line out vs ZY cable line out dock, but I didn't really try. But, I came out of this thinking I won't want to go back to headphone out with line out that much better.

*Switching over to optical* going into the D1 was, well I wont say eargasm, but eye opening (eyegasm). *It was very clear to me that listening through the optical/D1 that I could REALLY forget that I was listening to earphones and be right there in the music. It was so engaging, and real, and spacious, and "LIVE".*

*Going back to line-out to amp* (ipod or cd player) sounded more like I was listening to a really really good recording of live music. I've used this comparison before in my CMoy head to head battle review, but this is a whole new order of magnitude. Now when I think back, it was like "the better amp made it sound less like it was done in a studio", but I can't say one made it more real than another - none of them does that with the sources that I have at hand. Switching to the iBasso's DAC takes it that other direction. I felt like I was actually there listening to the musicians. Okay, so now when I get something nicer than this, where will I go from here in the new description? I'll have to say, "Well, now that I think about it, the E500 with D1 and Sony pcdp optical out wasn't that "real"... NOT.

 ALL the amps improved with the D1's DAC, but the D1 still comes out on top of the Tomahawk and Penguin Amp. I believe this was due to the inferior $5 and $10 interconnects that I was using to connect the other amps to the DAC, as opposed to the superior "internal" interconnect inside the D1. A better cable is clearly showing the superiority of the Tomahawk and Penguin amp sections to the Stock D1. However, the D1 shines again with upgraded opamps. Now that I have had a chance to listen to the Commercial version of the PenguinAmp Caffeine, called the Headstage Lyrix Pro Total, I can say the Headstage is on top, with the Penguin close by, and the D1 stock amp section below that. The Meier HEADSIX equals the Headstage in every way, but with a more pleasant forward sounding soundstage.

 My problem is that I am now spoiled with the sound of a CD to the D1 via optical. I can't carry around a lot of CD's everywhere, but I do now have a stack of my favorite CD's at my bedside - with the Sony CD player and iBasso living next to the bed to supply me with soothing tunes. When my H140 arrives I hope to have more music ripped into it as lossless files, and knowing that it can hold my favorite 50 CDs in lossless is a comfort when I am going out and want to bring it with me.

*DE-programing the moonies:* After the testing, I had to plug my Senn PX100 into my 8gb nano and listen unamped to de-sensitise myself to such good sound - after about 30 minutes it was more enjoyable again, but now I know it doesn't sound real. 

 PS: I am also impressed with the Penguin Royal Amp which seems to be maturing nicely and for $89 it was a real steal. The $69 Caffeine seems to improve upon the Royal just slightly in sound, and certainly in features, PLUS the addition of a $29 Headstage external USB DAC, makes them an even better steal. But, for just over $140 more you can have the whole world at your beck and call, women will swoon at your feet, and you will live forever. Okay, maybe I'm exagerating just a little


----------



## Sieg9198

Anyone with the D1, can u guys list out what opamp you recommend the most for the D1, and the one you're using right now.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I started with using only the iBasso amp section..._

 

Excellent writeup Larry! Can you do us a favor and edit that to list your opamp/buffer chips you were using in the test? I know you've posted it in other messages but it would be good to nail down the config there vs. rereading the massive thread to figure it out. Glad it is agreeing with you and that Penguin sounds promising.


----------



## DennyL

I think there might be a problem with my D1. There is an LED on the front, which looks like a 'Power On' light, but it never comes on. The only reference to it in the instructions is to say that it flashes when the battery is low, but I haven't got that far yet. Can anyone tell me please whether the light on the front of their unit is on when the unit is switched on?

 Thanks.


----------



## StevieDvd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think there might be a problem with my D1. There is an LED on the front, which looks like a 'Power On' light, but it never comes on. The only reference to it in the instructions is to say that it flashes when the battery is low, but I haven't got that far yet. Can anyone tell me please whether the light on the front of their unit is on when the unit is switched on?

 Thanks._

 

Hi,

 Mine lights up when switched on (a bit too bright really). I was not there when it ran out of juice so can't yet say if mine flashes when it's supposed to.

 So far it works as per the spec - fingers crossed I got a good one.


 Steve


----------



## Capunk

What? instruction?
 I don't get any manual book at all???


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have felt for some time that the DAC of the D1 sounded brighter than I preferred. Some types of music sounded rather shrill in the treble_

 

How could it possibly not sound shrill in the treble when you use AD8397? It is a shrill opamp. It has it's virtues for sure with increadible soundstage and bass slam and a kind of harsh, overly forward, but warm and pleasing mid, but the treble is shrill.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How could it possibly not sound shrill in the treble when you use AD8397? It is a shrill opamp. It has it's virtues for sure with increadible soundstage and bass slam and a kind of harsh, overly forward, but warm and pleasing mid, but the treble is shrill._

 

The AD8397s in Ron's configuration are employed only in the buffers, so I imagine that the unfavorable characteristics that you describe are mitigated by his using either the OPA2111, LTC6241HV, or AD8066 as the main L-R op-amp.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Haile* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was thinking about ordering the iBasso D1 for the Beyerdynamic DT770/80 headphones. Does anybody have any experience with listening to this combo? I am not particularly picky about the sound quality, as long as it doesn't sound horrendous. I thought this would be a perfect entry level buy because I don't have a DAC or amp yet.

 Haile_

 

I have been used my still stock D1 with the DT770/80. The sound quality is very good (actually the best I have heard from those phones), and there is plenty of power. I think you will be very happy with that combination.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tomorrow I am scheduled to receive the replacement D1 from iBasso. For those that do not remember it will replace the one I have had since 9/4 and on which the blue light on the front panel stoped working before the 12 hour mark. Excellent customer service by iBasso. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The funny/sad thing is that the blue ligth started working today on its own. ??? Besides a gremlin, any idea why a light that went out a week ago just started working w/o any work done to it? I mean I feel bad that iBasso spent money to send me a new D1 and the one I have starts working on its own 24 hours before the arrival of its replacement. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks._

 

I received my D1 about a week ago, and I've just noticed that there is a light on the front panel, and it never comes on. Also, when the unit is charging, and I as much as touch the power connector, the light next to it seems to flicker between red (it's normal state under charge) and yellow. Has anyone else seen this?


----------



## nv88

Quote:


 I received my D1 about a week ago, and I've just noticed that there is a light on the front panel, and it never comes on. Also, when the unit is charging, and I as much as touch the power connector, the light next to it seems to flicker between red (it's normal state under charge) and yellow. Has anyone else seen this? 
 

Yes, I've had a similar problem. The blue led in front is SUPPOSE to be lit when the unit is turned on. It starts blinking when the battery needs to be recharged. The red charge light in back is SUPPOSE to be lit (not blinking) when the unit is charging. Once fully charged the red light SHOULD turn green. From my experience and other comments here there seem to be some issues with the lights and charging circuits on some of the D1s.

 iBasso has very good customer support, so if you think you have a problem. Just send them an email. 

 One question: Is your D1 actually charging?


----------



## Dash

Just received shipping confirmation from iBasso on my D1. Hopefully they have sourced some better LEDs by the time mine was made.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nv88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I've had a similar problem. The blue led in front is SUPPOSE to be lit when the unit is turned on. It starts blinking when the battery needs to be recharged. The red charge light in back is SUPPOSE to be lit (not blinking) when the unit is charging. Once fully charged the red light SHOULD turn green. From my experience and other comments here there seem to be some issues with the lights and charging circuits on some of the D1s.

 iBasso has very good customer support, so if you think you have a problem. Just send them an email. 

 One question: Is your D1 actually charging?_

 

I just sent them an email. Yes, my D1 is charging.

 Another mystery. Yesterday evening I was watching a movie on my laptop using the D1 to drive my headphones, and about half-way though the sound stopped. I could still get sound out of the laptop speakers or headphone output, but not through USB>D1. I took the D1 to my desktop and played music to the D1 through USB and it worked, and also the D1 worked on optical input (I didn't try the coax input.). I don't know what all that was about. I guess my laptop will work again tonight after it's been rebooted.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think there might be a problem with my D1. There is an LED on the front, which looks like a 'Power On' light, but it never comes on. The only reference to it in the instructions is to say that it flashes when the battery is low, but I haven't got that far yet. Can anyone tell me please whether the light on the front of their unit is on when the unit is switched on?

 Thanks._

 

My LED is on when powered up.

 It is bright enough to warn lost ships in the fog or a storm that they are straying to close to the rocks!!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Excellent writeup Larry! Can you do us a favor and edit that to list your opamp/buffer chips you were using in the test? I know you've posted it in other messages but it would be good to nail down the config there vs. rereading the massive thread to figure it out. Glad it is agreeing with you and that Penguin sounds promising._

 

Totally stock D1, no changes except time run. Once I roll op-amps I'll update my sig.

 I have some 8066 and 8397 here, and browndogs will be here tomorrow, then I will mail the off to "a forum member" [edited] with some money for his soldering skills and for an OPA2111 he's found for me. I ordered all this before I was half-way burned-in, and anything that gets me closer to being there is fine with me.

 If "a forum member" wants to be swamped with work and PM's he'll identify himself.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How could it possibly not sound shrill in the treble when you use AD8397? It is a shrill opamp. It has it's virtues for sure with increadible soundstage and bass slam and a kind of harsh, overly forward, but warm and pleasing mid, but the treble is shrill._

 

The AD8397 is only used as a buffer in this case.

 Interestingly, the Penguin Royal amp uses the 8397 as the opamp, and it is NOT shrill but does have bass slam. It also does not make my ER6i sound more harsh than they already are/were.


----------



## GiR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These have been recommended a few times in this very thread:


 SysConcept

 And, lucky you, they're located in Canada! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Congrats on the pending new arrivals. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

what sort of size would you recommend to get a mini-toslink cable for connecting the d1 to a h120 siting together on/in a desk/bag?

 I have no idea how much length there needs to be for them to bend around to connect between the two ports.

 How durable are the cables? could i just stick it all inside a small camera bag and leave the in the bottom of my backpack and not have to worry about things knocking into the camera bag thing?


----------



## souperman

People please post pics of your D1's please!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GiR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what sort of size would you recommend to get a mini-toslink cable for connecting the d1 to a h120 siting together on/in a desk/bag?

 I have no idea how much length there needs to be for them to bend around to connect between the two ports.

 How durable are the cables? could i just stick it all inside a small camera bag and leave the in the bottom of my backpack and not have to worry about things knocking into the camera bag thing?_

 

Search this thread for my posts about the cable, I have noted the size (I think I said my toslink-mini is 15.5cm long, and I have a 13cm long mini-mini + a mini-toslink adapter, and that SysConcept verified these would work with the D1/H120 stacked (the center to center of the ports is between 3.25 - 3.4cm with both in their leather). Tell the guy with the accent that Larry G. sent you when you order.


----------



## Haile

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been used my still stock D1 with the DT770/80. The sound quality is very good (actually the best I have heard from those phones), and there is plenty of power. I think you will be very happy with that combination._

 

That sounds great. Thanks.


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The AD8397 is only used as a buffer in this case.

 Interestingly, the Penguin Royal amp uses the 8397 as the opamp, and it is NOT shrill but does have bass slam. It also does not make my ER6i sound more harsh than they already are/were._

 

You should compare AD8397 to LM4562, AD8058, ADA4899-1, discrete buffers or anything else with articulate treble with HiQ full size cans and then tell me it's not shrill. If you compare it to OPA2134, OPA2107, AD823, AD8066, AD8620 etc you wouldn't find it shrill, because they all are. If it weren't shrill, it would be the perfect opamp, and we would have had the best amp in the world in our pockets, and there would be no market for fancy amps at 10 or 20 times the cost. If it had no flaws, why would anyone look for anything better at all.


----------



## trickywombat

GIR
 Hope this answers your question.

 Thanks to HeadphoneAddict (see post above), I ordered the cables from Sysconcept according to the specs in his post. They work well. I chose blue so it'll be easy to find in a drawer.

 Sorry about the out-of-focus pictures. Was in a hurry and didn't have DOF preview.


----------



## GiR

that exactly what i was looking to see!

 I just putin an order and got a mail back saying how popular that size was and asking what we were all using them for


----------



## trickywombat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GiR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just putin an order and got a mail back saying how popular that size was and asking what we were all using them for _

 

We should order more before they realize this and increase the price


----------



## kalis104

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *trickywombat* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_GIR
 Hope this answers your question.

 Thanks to HeadphoneAddict (see post above), I ordered the cables from Sysconcept according to the specs in his post. They work well. I chose blue so it'll be easy to find in a drawer.

 Sorry about the out-of-focus pictures. Was in a hurry and didn't have DOF preview.








_

 

Didn't realize anyone made optical cables that short, I'll be ordering a couple of those. But alas their site seems to be down, it might of been head-fi'd.


----------



## GiR

Wow, talk about fast service. I ordered it about 3 minutes before i posted on here that i placed the order. And they have shipped it already


----------



## jamato8

Here is their email address. Just express what you want per the above measurements. 

 You can even have the cable shorter if you ask for the heat shrink reinforcement, which eliminates the rubber collar and makes the U a shorter turning radius and adds to the strength of the termination. 

 "Sys.Concept" <info@sys-concept.com>

 Joseph is a great guy to deal with. He can make any length you request.

 Mini to mini:


http://www.sysconcept.ca/product_inf...roducts_id/254

 For Toslink to mini:

http://www.sysconcept.ca/product_inf...roducts_id/219


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should compare AD8397 to LM4562, AD8058, ADA4899-1, discrete buffers or anything else with articulate treble with HiQ full size cans and then tell me it's not shrill. If you compare it to OPA2134, OPA2107, AD823, AD8066, AD8620 etc you wouldn't find it shrill, because they all are. If it weren't shrill, it would be the perfect opamp, and we would have had the best amp in the world in our pockets, and there would be no market for fancy amps at 10 or 20 times the cost. If it had no flaws, why would anyone look for anything better at all._

 

I am perfectly happy with my NON-shrill stock D1 and Penguin 8397 amp, with Ultrasone HFI700DVD and Sennheiser HD600. Are they not full size HiQ cans? My D1 is only getting the 8397's in the buffer sockets, and the OPA2111 in the amp socket. The Penguin Royal is my only amp with AD8397 as far as I know, and it is NOT shrill.

 I only mentioned the ER6i because if the AMP is shrill, the ER6i don't like them. My Tomahawk makes the ER6i worse, and I don't hear anyone esle call that one shrill. I do know shrill - I will not for for Shrillery Clinton for example.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

PS: rolling the opamps is only for curiosity sake, not because of dissatisfaction with the sound. If I don't keep an open mind I can never hear anything better than what I have, staying satisfied and complacent with the old...


----------



## jamato8

I hear nothing shrill in the presentation using the AD8397's in the D1, using the HD650's, PROline 750's or anything else I have tried. I did not like them at first but since they settled in the sound is quite enjoyable.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GiR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, talk about fast service. I ordered it about 3 minutes before i posted on here that i placed the order. And they have shipped it already _

 

Ditto for me! Amazing! 

 Thanks addict for all the information to make this easy for the rest of us.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hear nothing shrill in the presentation using the AD8397's in the D1, using the HD650's, PROline 750's or anything else I have tried. I did not like them at first but since they settled in the sound is quite enjoyable._

 

Good to know, especially for those of us who are opamp rolling challenged!! Thanks for the encouragement!


----------



## Dash

Whats the shipping estimate from iBasso to Florida?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

138 days.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_138 days._

 

Funny guy.. . It's. . . 

















 133 


 I would say around 6 days, if what I have been reading and the time it took to receive mine hold up. Mine took 3.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My LED is on when powered up.

 It is bright enough to warn lost ships in the fog or a storm that they are straying to close to the rocks!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Mine too!


----------



## recephasan

Just replaced the DAC (8616) and AMP (823) opamps both with 2132.

 Voila! The shrill is gone. The thing that had been bothering me the most 
 regarding the D1.

 Now I can listen even with my RS-1. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My daily rig is 

 iRiver H120 -> iBasso D1 -> Shure E500

 Bliss, finally...


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_People please post pics of your D1's please!_

 

Remember to click on the thumbnails below to view the full size pictures.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whats the shipping estimate from iBasso to Florida?_

 

2 to 3 days, I have received two!


----------



## jamato8

2! What are you doing with 2! Oh, now you have stereo or is that quad sound?


----------



## Dash

So there is hope it could arrive by the weekend....


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2! What are you doing with 2! Oh, now you have stereo or is that quad sound?_

 

Two scenarios:

 1. One of the units had a problem and I needed a replacement.
 2. I am going balance!


----------



## Schalldampfer

Will you seriously be using both, mrarroyo?


----------



## Skylab

FWIW, I have posted my comparison of the D1 and the Move: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=260197

 Enjoy.


----------



## jinp6301

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_FWIW, I have posted my comparison of the D1 and the Move: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=260197

 Enjoy._

 

this is why skylab is the man


----------



## Skylab

Thanks. I was impressed with the D1 when used as a DAC/AMP combo. Nice product!


----------



## Corbet

Oh GOD! I can't decide between this or the Little Dot MKIII as my first AMP! 

 This is smaller, able to be used portable, and has some nice input funcitons. The MKIII has the input/ouptuts in the back, which is "cleaner" to me when having it on my desk.

 Help me decide.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Yuheng had some question that got me thinking about what's better in the iMod vs iRiver with optical out debate (that I just started with this post). This is what I said to him. 

 "I have never listened to an iMod. I am sure it sounds better than the stock 4-5.5G ipods. However, you are still stuck with the DAC in the iPod and cannot change that.

 What I DO know (as stated in my review). I do know that the D1 with optical input produces superior sound to listening to the iPod or Sony CD player with "line-level" out to AMP.

 And, I DO know the D1 with optical input produces superior sound to the iPod or Sony CD player with "headphone" out to AMP.

 Although I have not heard the iMod, I have read the same things on the internet that you do, and it appears that the iMod is NOT as good as a dedicated DAC (like the D1) with digital input from a transport. However, I have not experienced the iMod to KNOW whether that opinion is correct. 

 I DO KNOW that if you get the iMod, that you didn't need a D1 because you could use any amp with the upgraded line-level output from the iMod. But, you can't use any old dock line out connector to do that, it MUST be the iMod dock with caps.

 The beauty of the D1 is that you can use ANYTHING with optical, Coax, or USB audio out as a transport and it will NOT (should not) modify the sound in any way. You can use any optical, coax or USB cable because the data is digital. So the sound quality will (should) depend on the D1's DAC and or on it's AMP, not the source. 

 AND, we DO know that both the iBasso's DAC and AMP CAN be modifed if you don't like the sound, just by changing opamps and buffers, in the DAC and/or in the AMP section.

 So, if you want to use the D1 to it's full potential, you should feed it sound from a DVD or CD with optical out, or lossless audio files from a DAP like the iRiver. In my case, to get the BEST sound, I have a portable DVD with coax out, two portable sony CD players with optical out, and three iRiver DAP with optical out. 

 I've thought of buying an iMod for times when the D1 + iRiver, or D1 + CD player is bigger than I want to carry around, and then I could carry my smaller Tomahawk amp with iMod in my pocket. 

 I might mod my 80gb 5.5G and leave the 30gb alone, but in any case, I want to have at least one iPod video that is unmodified so that the kids can watch movies in my video and sound dock in the car.

 You have to decide, do you want the best sound, or the most portable sound. In my case, I want both. With the iRiver and D1, I can put them in a camera bag (will post pictures soon) and carry my favorite 30-60 CD's in lossless format with me (depending on H120 or H140). However, it will sound no different from the CD, and I wont have to carry all those CD's around with me.

 Good luck.

 Larry"

 Actually no debate wanted here - the point is why buy a DAC/AMP when all you have is line-out sources? 

 Most D1 buyers had that in mind, and at first I was planning to move my Airport Express with optical out to my bedside. Then I'd use Salling Clicker on my bluetooth phone to control my iMac/iTunes in the other room, to pick what songs to play. The other option was a full size DVD player with optical out to place on the bedside table, until I discovered portable optical and coax sources.


----------



## yuheng

really thks bruder HeadphoneAddict with his details explanation...and i will have to grab ur h120, YGPM...

 and that's right....that is wat i need, portable. !!

 thks and really appreciated fro this reply.

 :respect:


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Skylab, I read your review just now, and I see after looking at my review on page 53 of this thread, that we both noticed the same thing - the D1 as a DAC/AMP combo simply BLEW ME AWAY! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I didn't want to go back to line-in after that - it was like an epiphany.

 I seems that the iBasso D1 had more effort placed on the DAC/AMP combo, and not the line-in sound. I think they at least got the amp alone to sound as good as the Tomahawk (or better). Just think what your D1 will sound like with 400+ hours and some op-amp rolling 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 D1 says, "Move" over, here I come (pun intended)


----------



## Schalldampfer

Will the D1 have an adapter-less version?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Lets try the D1 portable - see pics (I swear, I'm getting my Nikon back from my 14yr old): I made a mistake and had to convert a 90 degree with toslink female to a mini female, by using a second adapter. 

 It fits in the camera case better when using a cheaper 1meter optical cable that is more flexible and can be rolled up along side of the D1 and iRiver. If I push hard enough, I can get the 30gb iPod video in there too, but not the 80.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received my D1 about a week ago, and I've just noticed that there is a light on the front panel, and it never comes on. Also, when the unit is charging, and I as much as touch the power connector, the light next to it seems to flicker between red (it's normal state under charge) and yellow. Has anyone else seen this?_

 

Wow! I emailed iBasso about this problem yesterday. Today I have this reply:-

_Sorry about that. Your D1 should be faulty. We are going to send you a replacement tomorrow. The blue LED should be lit when the D1 is turned on. 

 Also, we will pay for the return shipping to bring the defective unit back to us. please email me when you receive the replacement.

 We appologize for the troubles.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio
_


----------



## Dual

^ What awesome customer service. Im still waiting for my D1 anxiously. At least I know iBasso will take care of me if there are any faults.


----------



## kiwirugby

I tried to order a D1 last night and this morning and when I come to the payment page (after clicking on the visa icon) it comes up blank white. I let it sit there for five minutes, nothing. Am I dong something wrong? Anyone else having the same problem? Counsel?


----------



## zer010gic

You need to use IE. Other browsers don't display the contents correctly.


----------



## vDrag0n

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need to use IE. Other browsers don't display the contents correctly._

 

firefox works fine...

 on another note.. i just made a purchase too! Lets see if this is overated or will it blow me away...


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need to use IE. Other browsers don't display the contents correctly._

 

Thanks. Done! (I am glad I have dual boot on my Macbook Pro!). vdragon, if I had seen your post I would have tried Firefox, but I was too busy ordering!!

 D-EJ2000 out of mothballs (also have the D-EJ915 that I found in some dark corner yesterday), pcdp batteries recharged, mini-toslink ordered yesterday, select CDs ready, so I just need the D1!! Maybe end of next week via DHL?

 I forgot...empty wallet!

 Thanks for all the help on here. You guys (and ladies) are great!


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vDrag0n* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_firefox works fine...

 on another note.. i just made a purchase too! Lets see if this is overated or will it blow me away..._

 

Firefox gave me issues with there site in both osx and windows.


----------



## GiR

Well, My h120 is broken :'( 

 I didn't test it before, just powered it on and it went on, so powered it off. Turns out that after a few seconds being on i hear this click noise and it shutsdown. It then cant be turned on for about a minute. I opened it up to see if it was the battery (disconnected it and ran through the mains only) still the same problem. No idea what I could try to do to fix it now, im not a diy whiz. 

 So anyone know of either somewhere I could pick up a h120/140 or recommend another optical player (not cd, a flash/hd based player, I cant stand carrying cds around with me and changing them  ) that would work well with the ole D1?

 I checked Ebay and there isn't anything too promising there at the moment.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Firefox gave me issues with there site in both osx and windows._

 

Same problem here. I asked them, and they just said it's a known issue.


----------



## souperman

My firefox displays the info correctly now.


----------



## jamato8

I would just keep an eye on Ebay. I pick up a reconditioned one there a week or so ago. Maybe someone here is selling one. 

 I want to get a remote for mine but I will have to wait for one to show up on Ebay or somewhere else.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vDrag0n* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_firefox works fine...

 on another note.. i just made a purchase too! Lets see if this is overated or will it blow me away..._

 

If you don't like it let me know. I am considering getting another one.


----------



## GiR

Yeah, guess I shall do that  hopefully one shows up. I guess if it takes me an extra week to get hold of one at least i have time to burn in the D1 before I try going portable with it ^^


----------



## xollox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GiR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Turns out that after a few seconds being on i hear this click noise and it shutsdown._

 

If it's a click from the actual unit (as opposed to being a click through the headphones) it's probably the drive that died. There are people who have had success replacing the drive with bigger drives. With some googling you should be able to see pictures of the process to see if it's something you think you can handle. If not, there might be someone in your area that would be willing to help out.


----------



## GiR

Yeah it is from the unit, I'm gonna try take the hard rive out of a friends and put it in to see if that works.


----------



## Duheed

after this review it got me thinking that seeming my laptop is always my source its better to go for D1 rather than the move. Question is seeming the corda amps synergise so well with my soon to be mine headphone the beyer dt880 would going for ibasso still be a better choice cuz of its dac. basically will the ibasso do a better job than the move on my dt-880's


----------



## jamato8

SysConcept can make the optical mini to mini or mini to toslink or toslink to toslink just about any length. I got an email that it they can make the U even without the outer shell of the plug so that the tips would be very close but making them 8mm center to center or more is no problem. The length of the optical cable would be about 4 or 5cm in length, very short.


----------



## nv88

Can they build the 90 degree angle plugs onto the cable? So we don't need to use adapters if we want the cable flat against the end of the units.


----------



## jamato8

No, they don't have any 90 degree plugs, you have to use the adapters. You could be the optical cable very short though, like the end of one plug butted up to the end of the other.


----------



## Capunk

Anyone here have imod? 
 How does it compare with PCDP - Optical - D1 and iMod - Line out - D1 ?
 in term of SQ?


----------



## OverlordXenu

Will the Q5 and Pacemaker just get released already? I want this thing!

 Edit: Could this drive K240 Sextetts?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

I got iHP120 (rockboxed), ety er4p>s (kiwame 75 ohm resistors)

 Need to save up for this baby. Already have the opa2111 and the buffers.

 Should be the end of my portable rig!


----------



## OverlordXenu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *OverlordXenu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Will the Q5 and Pacemaker just get released already? I want this thing!

 Edit: Could this drive K240 Sextetts?_

 

Rather, anyone know the output independence?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *OverlordXenu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Rather, anyone know the output independence?_

 

google is your friend 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





http://www.epinions.com/content_402149904004
 The K-240 Monitor headphones are the 600-Ohm version of the model line. During the years, there were several other -240 models released: K-240 Sextett (with additional six mini diaphragms inside the cups), Studio (the current 55-Ohm production model), DF (with frequency response adjusted to match psychoacoustic model of human hearing), a few just named. 

 The review talks about how big an amp you need, how to get them and refers people to Head-fi.org !!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

http://www.epinions.com/content_152773889668

 600 ohm AKG240DF

http://www.epinions.com/elec-review-...B-37F06643-bd1

 AKG240M - should be the same as DF

 Looks like the "Studio" are the only low impedance 55ohm.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Back on topic - I sent off my 8066 and 8397 opamps to be soldered onto browndogs, and my OPA2111 will ship back with them.


----------



## OverlordXenu

I meant of the iBasso. I guess it can't drive them, then.

 Well, I found a steal on ebay for HD580's, those are easy to drive, right?


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *OverlordXenu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I meant of the iBasso. I guess it can't drive them, then.

 Well, I found a steal on ebay for HD580's, those are easy to drive, right?_

 

My iBasso D1 drives my HD580 to painful levels in the stock configuration. Good luck.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My iBasso D1 drives my HD580 to painful levels in the stock configuration. Good luck._

 

how was the painful mean? 
 sound good or bad?


----------



## OverlordXenu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how was the painful mean? 
 sound good or bad?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think me means it can make it so loud, it would be unsafe to listen to...


----------



## roberhofer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just sent them an email. Yes, my D1 is charging.

 Another mystery. Yesterday evening I was watching a movie on my laptop using the D1 to drive my headphones, and about half-way though the sound stopped. I could still get sound out of the laptop speakers or headphone output, but not through USB>D1. I took the D1 to my desktop and played music to the D1 through USB and it worked, and also the D1 worked on optical input (I didn't try the coax input.). I don't know what all that was about. I guess my laptop will work again tonight after it's been rebooted._

 

I am having similar problems. Plus I can replicate this on two laptops. 
 One is a Asus V2JE. Pretty new, Vista. When connecting the IBasso via USB everything works initially great. However as soon as I do something that uses graphics (scrolling, switching windows) I get crackling noises. So I connected the IBasso via the Docking Station to see whether this seperates this somewhat. In this case when I have interactions that taxes the graphics subsystem I get dropouts (just as DennyL mentioned) and have to stop the media player (I tried several) and start the song again for IBasso to sync again. 

 Trying to eliminate the problem I connected the IBasso to a older IBM T22 laptop via USB. It has a fresh install of Windows XP. It connected, Windows detected the IBasso as a USB sound device and played great - till something used the CPU and then the same problem: crackling noises. 

 This is REALLY annoying: I bought this primarily to get good sound out of my laptop since I spend a lot of time listening to music in this way. And the experience is now anything but better. So till this is solved I am using the Laptop headphone jacks and the IBasso D1 is dormant. 

 Anyone else who has similar issues? Or is USB Audio simply unreliable? I eliminated Vista (which has a new Sound driver architecture) since the same is true on my T22 Windows XP laptop. Next step is to use SPDIF, however I first need the right cable....


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *roberhofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am having similar problems. Plus I can replicate this on two laptops. 
 One is a Asus V2JE. Pretty new, Vista. When connecting the IBasso via USB everything works initially great. However as soon as I do something that uses graphics (scrolling, switching windows) I get crackling noises. So I connected the IBasso via the Docking Station to see whether this seperates this somewhat. In this case when I have interactions that taxes the graphics subsystem I get dropouts (just as DennyL mentioned) and have to stop the media player (I tried several) and start the song again for IBasso to sync again. 

 Trying to eliminate the problem I connected the IBasso to a older IBM T22 laptop via USB. It has a fresh install of Windows XP. It connected, Windows detected the IBasso as a USB sound device and played great - till something used the CPU and then the same problem: crackling noises. 

 This is REALLY annoying: I bought this primarily to get good sound out of my laptop since I spend a lot of time listening to music in this way. And the experience is now anything but better. So till this is solved I am using the Laptop headphone jacks and the IBasso D1 is dormant. 

 Anyone else who has similar issues? Or is USB Audio simply unreliable? I eliminated Vista (which has a new Sound driver architecture) since the same is true on my T22 Windows XP laptop. Next step is to use SPDIF, however I first need the right cable...._

 

I think all USB audio device is that way.
 I do quite a bit of 3D work, and when rotating my model around, I get those crackling noises with my Total BitHead, too. It happens also when I sometimes scroll through websites.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *roberhofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am having similar problems. Plus I can replicate this on two laptops. 
 One is a Asus V2JE. Pretty new, Vista. When connecting the IBasso via USB everything works initially great. However as soon as I do something that uses graphics (scrolling, switching windows) I get crackling noises. So I connected the IBasso via the Docking Station to see whether this seperates this somewhat. In this case when I have interactions that taxes the graphics subsystem I get dropouts (just as DennyL mentioned) and have to stop the media player (I tried several) and start the song again for IBasso to sync again. 

 Trying to eliminate the problem I connected the IBasso to a older IBM T22 laptop via USB. It has a fresh install of Windows XP. It connected, Windows detected the IBasso as a USB sound device and played great - till something used the CPU and then the same problem: crackling noises. 

 This is REALLY annoying: I bought this primarily to get good sound out of my laptop since I spend a lot of time listening to music in this way. And the experience is now anything but better. So till this is solved I am using the Laptop headphone jacks and the IBasso D1 is dormant. 

 Anyone else who has similar issues? Or is USB Audio simply unreliable? I eliminated Vista (which has a new Sound driver architecture) since the same is true on my T22 Windows XP laptop. Next step is to use SPDIF, however I first need the right cable...._

 

No, it's time to switch to OSX 10.4.9


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *roberhofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am having similar problems. Plus I can replicate this on two laptops. 
 One is a Asus V2JE. Pretty new, Vista. When connecting the IBasso via USB everything works initially great. However as soon as I do something that uses graphics (scrolling, switching windows) I get crackling noises. So I connected the IBasso via the Docking Station to see whether this seperates this somewhat. In this case when I have interactions that taxes the graphics subsystem I get dropouts (just as DennyL mentioned) and have to stop the media player (I tried several) and start the song again for IBasso to sync again. 

 Trying to eliminate the problem I connected the IBasso to a older IBM T22 laptop via USB. It has a fresh install of Windows XP. It connected, Windows detected the IBasso as a USB sound device and played great - till something used the CPU and then the same problem: crackling noises. 

 This is REALLY annoying: I bought this primarily to get good sound out of my laptop since I spend a lot of time listening to music in this way. And the experience is now anything but better. So till this is solved I am using the Laptop headphone jacks and the IBasso D1 is dormant. 

 Anyone else who has similar issues? Or is USB Audio simply unreliable? I eliminated Vista (which has a new Sound driver architecture) since the same is true on my T22 Windows XP laptop. Next step is to use SPDIF, however I first need the right cable...._

 

The problem is with your computer not supplying sufficient power through the USB bus. You should be able to solve it by using a powered USB hub. In the meantime, if you're using the headphone jack of the computer anyway, you can still feed the analog signal to the amp.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *roberhofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am having similar problems. Plus I can replicate this on two laptops. 
 One is a Asus V2JE. Pretty new, Vista. When connecting the IBasso via USB everything works initially great. However as soon as I do something that uses graphics (scrolling, switching windows) I get crackling noises. So I connected the IBasso via the Docking Station to see whether this seperates this somewhat. In this case when I have interactions that taxes the graphics subsystem I get dropouts (just as DennyL mentioned) and have to stop the media player (I tried several) and start the song again for IBasso to sync again. 

 Trying to eliminate the problem I connected the IBasso to a older IBM T22 laptop via USB. It has a fresh install of Windows XP. It connected, Windows detected the IBasso as a USB sound device and played great - till something used the CPU and then the same problem: crackling noises. 

 This is REALLY annoying: I bought this primarily to get good sound out of my laptop since I spend a lot of time listening to music in this way. And the experience is now anything but better. So till this is solved I am using the Laptop headphone jacks and the IBasso D1 is dormant. 

 Anyone else who has similar issues? Or is USB Audio simply unreliable? I eliminated Vista (which has a new Sound driver architecture) since the same is true on my T22 Windows XP laptop. Next step is to use SPDIF, however I first need the right cable...._

 

This does seem more of a Windows problem than an iBasso problem. I shall spend more time this weekend looking into it. Does anyone know whether users of other makes of headphone amps with DACs have experienced this problem?

 This is not the same as the problem I had, where the USB>iBasso sound simply stopped after about an hour and wouldn't start again (I didn't try rebooting the computer as I wanted to get on with the movie), although I did comfirm that the iBasso still worked through USB from another computer.


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This does seem more of a Windows problem than an iBasso problem. I shall spend more time this weekend looking into it. Does anyone know whether users of other makes of headphone amps with DACs have experienced this problem?

 This is not the same as the problem I had, where the USB>iBasso sound simply stopped after about an hour and wouldn't start again (I didn't try rebooting the computer as I wanted to get on with the movie), although I did comfirm that the iBasso still worked through USB from another computer._

 

There was some discussion in the MOVE thread about noise transmission over the USB bus. The problem lay with the computer and it was solved through the use of a powered USB hub. I use the MOVE with a PowerBook G4 directly connected to the USB port and it is absolutely silent.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There was some discussion in the MOVE thread about noise transmission over the USB bus. The problem lay with the computer and it was solved through the use of a powered USB hub. I use the MOVE with a PowerBook G4 directly connected to the USB port and it is absolutely silent._

 

Thank you for that. It seems weird, even so. I can understand a powered USB hub solving a problem with a passive hub, but a powered hub being better than plugging into the computer....?


----------



## HiFlight

Due to the many requests for the DAC opamp upgrade to the AD8656, I will be able to provide a mounted AD8656 on a standoff, but my opamps will not be available until the middle of October due to availability delays from Analog.


----------



## 325xi

D1 is already out of stock - any idea when it can be back?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *325xi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_D1 is already out of stock - any idea when it can be back?_

 

If nothing else, the folks at iBasso seem to be exceptional in their communication:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iBasso website* 
_Greeting,

 D1 is temporarily out of stock. It will back to stock again after we receive our new enclosure supply. It probably takes 1~2 weeks from now. (Sept 14th, 2007)_


----------



## yuheng

oh my god, my order going to be delayed again...so sad.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *OverlordXenu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think me means it can make it so loud, it would be unsafe to listen to..._

 

You are correct. Heck, even with the 300 ohm HD580 I will not go past 10:30 or 11:00 o'clock.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The problem is with your computer not supplying sufficient power through the USB bus. You should be able to solve it by using a powered USB hub. In the meantime, if you're using the headphone jack of the computer anyway, you can still feed the analog signal to the amp._

 

Would using task manager to set the priority of the software being used to view the movie or listen to music to "high" help?


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You are correct. Heck, even with the 300 ohm HD580 I will not go past 10:30 or 11:00 o'clock._

 

how was the sound of 580 with d1?


----------



## Monster_Omelette

Hmmm, I placed an order for one of these back on the 11th, still no shipping confirmation (seems like it takes 3-4 days though), although now I wonder if that delay will affect my order...


----------



## Dash

My D1 is out on the truck for delivery today. I ordered over the weekend. Received email notification on Tuesday and should arrive today. Im excited.


----------



## Sisyphos

I received my D1 a few days ago and although I think it's a great combo (particularly with the HD650) I'm selling it right again to afford a big DAC. 

 If you're interested please have a look at my offer. 

 - Marco


----------



## dw6928

I received a D1 from a fellow Headfier today for a bit of comparison to my Corda Move. Is it normal for the leather casing to bulge out a bit at the seam? As it is not mine, I thought I should ask if this is a defect.


----------



## GiR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My D1 is out on the truck for delivery today. I ordered over the weekend. Received email notification on Tuesday and should arrive today. Im excited._

 







 mine hasn't had the tracking updated for ages.

 2007-09-12 14:13:00 GUANGZHOU Despatch from Sorting Center 

 *sob* soon it will be mine though


----------



## Haile

Looks like I ordered this just in time


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dw6928* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received a D1 from a fellow Headfier today for a bit of comparison to my Corda Move. Is it normal for the leather casing to bulge out a bit at the seam? As it is not mine, I thought I should ask if this is a defect._

 

This has been discussed a few times earlier in the thread, but obviously it's not the biggest of issues. Nonetheless, yes, it's normal. I e-mailed iBasso suggesting that they add a few mm to the leather at the velcro interface to make for a neater fit and they told me they would look into it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

So, after some burn-in time and extended listening, how many people NOW agree with the conclusion to my review on page 53?

  Quote:


 *...you can have the whole world at your beck and call, women will swoon at your feet, and you will live forever...* 
 

I was thinking about editing it to add ...you can fly...


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Due to the many requests for the DAC opamp upgrade to the AD8656, I will be able to provide a mounted AD8656 on a standoff, but my opamps will not be available until the middle of October due to availability delays from Analog._

 

Does that include the Buffers or just the DAC chips?


 Corey


----------



## OverlordXenu

Anyone know the due-date for the $200 accessory-less one?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *OverlordXenu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know the due-date for the $200 accessory-less one?_

 

Same as the other ones (1-2 weeks). I believe it's $209. Just e-mail iBasso and they should be able to arrange it.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dw6928* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received a D1 from a fellow Headfier today for a bit of comparison to my Corda Move. Is it normal for the leather casing to bulge out a bit at the seam? As it is not mine, I thought I should ask if this is a defect._

 

Yes, specially at the velcro closure.


----------



## Dash

UPS just dropped off mine. It was the simple package. iBasso told me to paypal the money direct to them. I get the email address in a sec. S


----------



## Dash

here's the email:

 "Thank you for your concern.
 We still offer the $209 D1 simple package. However, it is not available on our website. To order this package, you need to send payment to our paypal account directly. 
 Our paypal account is payment@ibasso.com

 We will ship your order out with 48 hours, the shipping period vary with area. Shipping to United States, it usually takes 4~5 business days. Also, shipping cost to United States is $23.

 If you have any further questions, please dont hesitate to contact me.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio"


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does that include the Buffers or just the DAC chips?


 Corey_

 

Both. However I received notice of shipping today, so maybe the boat will dock a bit sooner!


----------



## GiR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GiR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 mine hasn't had the tracking updated for ages.

 2007-09-12 14:13:00 GUANGZHOU Despatch from Sorting Center 

 *sob* soon it will be mine though _

 

Another day and still no update on the tracking site. How long did you guys have to wait for it to even show up as arriving at another country after leaving china?


----------



## dw6928

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, specially at the velcro closure. 

_

 

Thanks. That's the bulge. I think there was a better way.


----------



## Sasaki

I've just got mine.
 On the first look, D1 is a bit bigger but it is reasonably compact for the Amp/DAC combo. Build quality is nice as well.
 Here is some pictures. (click to enlarge)

**size comparison*
 MicroDAC to the left





**amp setting*
 with iMod 5.5G + Cryo X Silver dock





**DAC/Amp setting*
 with iHP-140 + Optical cable



 



_the right is equivalent separate system, MicroDAC & SR-71.
 D1 is a good space saver 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## Dexdexter

Those are some very tasty photos, Sasaki-san!


----------



## dw6928

Of all of my headphones, the D1 seems to mate best with the Ultrasone 2500 at this early stage (day 2). The AKG 701 sounded shrill and lifeless. The Denon D2000 always sounds good (even out of an Ipod).


----------



## jamato8

It is working very well with my PROline 750's. The 750's are now over 300 hours and sounding fine with the D1 at over 600 or 700 hours.


----------



## mrarroyo

I agree with dw6928, my PROline 2500 are the best sounding cans out of the D1 (as compared with Sennheiser HD600 or HD580). Another can that sounds good out of it is the Sennheiser PX100 and to some extent the AKG K501 (this needs more listening too).

 Today I swapped the 8616 with an 8656 (DAC section amp). I also swapped the AD823 for a 2111, the soundstage is wider and it is easier to detect the instruments. Not night and day but better.

 BTW dw6928 I hope you can hear the difference this two changes make.


----------



## dw6928

I will spend the time and alternate between my 3 very different headphones to see if I can discern the difference. Sounds like great fun!


----------



## HiFlight

As I do not wish to make this a commercial venture and risk being accused of advertising for mounting and soldering services, I would kindly ask those interested to direct any inquiries relating to this topic to my home email, rather than discussing it on the forum or by PM. 

 It is not my intention to make this a money-making venture, but rather to provide assistance to those who for whatever reason do not feel comfortable soldering small objects. 

 I will continue to post my personal opinions regarding the characteristics of various opamps combinations and/or other mods to the D1, but they are my opinions and preferences only. YMMV!!! 

 I enjoy the Head-Fi forums and do not want to risk censure or banning due to inappropriate advertising or solicitation of services. 

 Any questions regarding topics inappropriate for Forum posting can be directed to: 

HiFlight@hotmail.com

 Thanks for your understanding.


----------



## mrarroyo

[size=x-large]STOP THE PRESSES![/size]

 I just changed the NE5532 buffers (2) with the LM4562 chip in the amp section. This combined with earlier today replacing the AD823 with a 2111 has brought the amp section to a whole new height. In my earliest comparison when I had used my 4th Gen iModded iPod to drive the D1 and SR71 I stated that they were pretty much the same.

 Well that is not longer the case. The D1 amp with the 2111 driving a pair of LM4562 is in the LaRocco PRII MkII territory. Man I wished we had done this test earlier today when I was with Vorlon1 and HiFlight.

 Not only is the bass so tight and powerful w/o any bloat but the soundstage has opened even further with an almost holographic sound. 3D for your ears!

 HiFlight/Jamato8 please try this combination and report back. Believe me, I want to be wrong. Otherwise a $250 amp plus $40 in chips will sound better than a $565 amp.

 HiFlight, the amps puts out plenty of power. Yes I know what the spec sheet says but I only had to go up the equivalent of 1/2 hour to compensate over the stock NE5532. The change is mind boggling, the buffers have brought more of a change than the other two chips previously swapped.


----------



## sum1

Just wondering. What will happen if i have a 5.1 signal running into the optical/coax input of the D1? will it just chop off the rear channels? downsample it? or will it refuse to understand the signal?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

So, Jamato8 was using an AD8066 in the amp and two AD8397 in the buffers.

 HiFlight was using an OPA2111 amp/AD8397x2 buffer and loved it more.

 You did the OPA2111 amp/LM4562 opamp x2 in the buffers, instead of the AD8397 as the buffers.

 We know the NE5532 buffers can be improved upon. 

 Therefore, you are asking for an opinion about which is better in the buffers, the AD839x27 which you haven't heard, or the LM4562x2 which HiFlight and Jamato8 haven't heard? 

 Maybe you need to send them a couple of LM4562 try try out


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Jamato,

 It would be nice if you (the OP) would edit the first thread to add 

 (1) the opamps tried, 
 (2) where (amp, buffers, DAC), 
 (3) and how the swapper (you, HiFlight or mrarroyo and friends) felt about the swaps

 I've got the above memorized, but already forgot about what chip the DAC swap did best with...


----------



## HiFlight

This evening I tried both the AD8397 and the LM4652 in the buffer sockets. The 4562 sounds better with the 2111, but I like the 8397 better with some of the other opamps. The 2111/4562 appears to be very synergistic! My personal preference, YMMV. Earlier today at the minimeet, Miguel had the 5532s as buffers and I had the 8397s in mine. We then compared a variety of other opamps in LR. Our preferences differed in our favorites for LR. 

 The AD8656 was the winner in the DAC socket. 

 It wasn't until after the meet that we tried the 4562 as a buffer. I was not sure it would work out, as the output power is MUCH less than the 8397, but I misjudged it, apparently. 

 What fun!!!!


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Jamato,

 It would be nice if you (the OP) would edit the first thread to add 

 (1) the opamps tried, 
 (2) where (amp, buffers, DAC), 
 (3) and how the swapper (you, HiFlight or mrarroyo and friends) felt about the swaps

 I've got the above memorized, but already forgot about what chip the DAC swap did best with..._

 

I have added things to the first post, though not what you mention, and I still notice that people do not read the first post but look for answers in the newest posts. If the information is in one place on the above 3 questions you posed, I would be happy to add this to the first post.


----------



## Capunk

Guys, I have a question -
 does opamp rolling on D1 requires soldering? 
 I'm interested but I don't have any past experience with any electronic engineering =)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have added things to the first post, though not what you mention, and I still notice that people do not read the first post but look for answers in the newest posts. If the information is in one place on the above 3 questions you posed, I would be happy to add this to the first post._

 

Yes, the answers to my question are in My and Hiflight's most recent posts


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guys, I have a question -
 does opamp rolling on D1 requires soldering? 
 I'm interested but I don't have any past experience with any electronic engineering =)_

 

They're just gonna tell you to "read the thread". However, it will be easier to search the thread for the key words "opamp" and "rolling". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Easiest for you is for me to say that "you will need to solder browndogs DIP adapters onto some of the opamps with SO8 pins, so that you can then plug them into the D1 main board."

 The OPA2111 does not need soldering, but the AD8066, AD8397 do need to solder the adapter. I forget about the LM4562 but I think it doesn't (can't promise, and too hard to look it up while surfing with my motorola Q).


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This evening I tried both the AD8397 and the LM4652 in the buffer sockets. The 4562 sounds better with the 2111, but I like the 8397 better with some of the other opamps. The 2111/4562 appears to be very synergistic! My personal preference, YMMV. Earlier today at the minimeet, Miguel had the 5532s as buffers and I had the 8397s in mine. We then compared a variety of other opamps in LR. Our preferences differed in our favorites for LR. 

 The AD8656 was the winner in the DAC socket. 

 It wasn't until after the meet that we tried the 4562 as a buffer. I was not sure it would work out, as the output power is MUCH less than the 8397, but I misjudged it, apparently. 

 What fun!!!!_

 

What are the changes from 8397 to the 4562??


----------



## TruckerJones

HiFlight: Did you manage to try out the AD797 on the D1? I saw in an earlier post that you were waiting to try it out. Though I think it has to be mounted on a single to dual browndog adapter first?

 How about the OPA627/OPA637? I'm really curious to know if these will work well with the D1. It also requires it to be mounted on the adapter too if I'm not mistaken?

 jamato8: Will the single-to-dual browndog adapter fit? I took a look at the pictures and it seems like it will be a tight fit, but will probably fit.


----------



## souperman

So as of right now, what is the best opamp/buffer and DAC opamp combination for you guys? Just to summarize the past million pages for everyone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Today I swapped the 8616 with an 8656 (DAC section amp). I also swapped the AD823 for a 2111, the soundstage is wider and it is easier to detect the instruments. Not night and day but better._

 

I've said it before, AD823 is not worth the time and money. Don't use it in any amp!
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This evening I tried both the AD8397 and the LM4652 in the buffer sockets. The 4562 sounds better with the 2111, but I like the 8397 better with some of the other opamps. The 2111/4562 appears to be very synergistic!

 It wasn't until after the meet that we tried the 4562 as a buffer. I was not sure it would work out, as the output power is MUCH less than the 8397, but I misjudged it, apparently. 

 What fun!!!!_

 

So you see, AD8397 is not the new Christ, I've also said this before. And don't stare yourself blind at current capability. It's how it sounds that matters.

 AD8397 and LM4562 are really night and day when it comes to sound signature, they're equally good though. LM4562 is very laid back with a smooth and sofisticated treble and overall presentaion, and a bit "loose" in the bass. I find it a bit analytical and "HiFi" as opposed to "music". AD8397 is very forward, a bit rough, harsh and sibilant but warmer (and more musical?). It has an accentuated but very tight bass (and it sounds exactly the same in front of a buffer, so it has nothing to to with high current output). So I can see that you find synergism with different opamps.

 If you use LM4562 as "buffers", why not use it as the only amp. What good could the input stage possibly do? Of course you have to find out how the loop(s) are set up. Single loops, multiloop, "Jung multiloop"?


----------



## GiR

Sorry to jump away fromt he opamp questions, but do any of you who got your D1 remeber roughly how long it was in transit? Mine left china 4 days and 5 hours ago, and has not arrived anywhere yet, latest update on tracking is still from 12 sept. 
 I would assume it should have arrived somewhere by now, not to my door but at least into another country.


----------



## dw6928

The gents that are having such success with their opamps: are you forwarding this information to Ibasso? They strike me as a company that would welcome positive change and might integrate it into the 2nd gen of the D1


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TruckerJones* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HiFlight: Did you manage to try out the AD797 on the D1? I saw in an earlier post that you were waiting to try it out. Though I think it has to be mounted on a single to dual browndog adapter first?

 How about the OPA627/OPA637? I'm really curious to know if these will work well with the D1. It also requires it to be mounted on the adapter too if I'm not mistaken?

 jamato8: Will the single-to-dual browndog adapter fit? I took a look at the pictures and it seems like it will be a tight fit, but will probably fit._

 

I will not be trying the AD797 or OPA627, as I don't think that the improvement in performance will justify trying to fit single to dual adapters in such a limited space. Additionally, I don't think the supply voltage in the D1 is adequate for these 2 opamps. They need a minimum of about 10v. 

 I am pleased with the sound of some of the current D1 combos that have been tried and proven to be successful in improving the iBasso amp section.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dw6928* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The gents that are having such success with their opamps: are you forwarding this information to Ibasso? They strike me as a company that would welcome positive change and might integrate it into the 2nd gen of the D1_

 

I suspect that their engineers are far more knowledgeable than I am regarding the suitability of various opamp applications, however we are only concerned with SQ, they must also be concerned with circuit compatibility, battery life, component availability, and a SQ that will appeal to the most people at the least cost. 

 I don't think they need my help!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've said it before, AD823 is not worth the time and money. Don't use it in any amp!

 So you see, AD8397 is not the new Christ, I've also said this before. And don't stare yourself blind at current capability. It's how it sounds that matters.

 AD8397 and LM4562 are really night and day when it comes to sound signature, they're equally good though. LM4562 is very laid back with a smooth and sofisticated treble and overall presentaion, and a bit "loose" in the bass. I find it a bit analytical and "HiFi" as opposed to "music". AD8397 is very forward, a bit rough, harsh and sibilant but warmer (and more musical?). It has an accentuated but very tight bass (and it sounds exactly the same in front of a buffer, so it has nothing to to with high current output). So I can see that you find synergism with different opamps.

 If you use LM4562 as "buffers", why not use it as the only amp. What good could the input stage possibly do? Of course you have to find out how the loop(s) are set up. Single loops, multiloop, "Jung multiloop"?_

 

I am not real sure how the AD8397 could be considered rough, harsh and sibilant but still be more musical???? None of the meet participants noted these characteristics, but hey, all ears are different, right??


----------



## yuheng

here come to a question on my forum. i know i might have ask wrong thing here but i jz wan to have a try..

 guys, do u ever try to connect this D1 to ur speakers, say multimedia speaker-altec lansing....as it can be functions as a standalone DAC, which mean computer sound card.....i m using AEGO M, wonder how was the sound like...

 and do u guys ever try to use it as DAC for CDP, say pioonner CDP>D1>speaker AMP>HI-FI speakers..

 if u guys felt my question is out from this HEAD-FI forum. pls ignore...

 thks.


----------



## mapstec

@yuheng: I have not tried to use the D1 as a preamp, but will do so and let you know what I think.

 @all: since I had a few of them here I couldn't resist and I put three AD4562 into the amp part, and I have to say I am loving it!

 With the stock Opamps I could't listen to my DT880. It is either late 70's or early 80's (I bought it used not knowing what I did ca 1985 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ), I do not know the Ohms on this beast.
 In stock configuration the D1 could not drive it, I had to almost use 100% volume to get reasonable output, but this still sounded flat and liveless.

 With the three AD4562 (not burned in!) I now sit here a happy camper listening to some Manfred Mann's Earth Band and have trouble writing since I just want to sit back and enjoy....

 So,


----------



## yuheng

it may used as an external DAC for CDP of hi-fi setup, and act as an soundcard for speakers, i wonder how was the performances.


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've said it before, AD823 is not worth the time and money. Don't use it in any amp!

 So you see, AD8397 is not the new Christ, I've also said this before. And don't stare yourself blind at current capability. It's how it sounds that matters.

 AD8397 and LM4562 are really night and day when it comes to sound signature, they're equally good though. LM4562 is very laid back with a smooth and sofisticated treble and overall presentaion, and a bit "loose" in the bass. I find it a bit analytical and "HiFi" as opposed to "music". AD8397 is very forward, a bit rough, harsh and sibilant but warmer (and more musical?). It has an accentuated but very tight bass (and it sounds exactly the same in front of a buffer, so it has nothing to to with high current output). So I can see that you find synergism with different opamps.

 If you use LM4562 as "buffers", why not use it as the only amp. What good could the input stage possibly do? Of course you have to find out how the loop(s) are set up. Single loops, multiloop, "Jung multiloop"?_

 

If the LM4562 does have the characteristic you mentioned, I might love it, cause I like detail


----------



## StevieDvd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GiR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to jump away fromt he opamp questions, but do any of you who got your D1 remeber roughly how long it was in transit? Mine left china 4 days and 5 hours ago, and has not arrived anywhere yet, latest update on tracking is still from 12 sept. 
 I would assume it should have arrived somewhere by now, not to my door but at least into another country._

 

Mine was ordered on 1 Sept, sent 4 Sept and arrived in UK and delivered on 7 Sept. The tracking showed it leaving China until the early morning of the 7 Sept, the parcelforce van drove into my road as I left for work - he made me swerve. I wondered whether he had my D1 onboard so I checked the tracking when I arrived at work and it had been delivered so it was on that van.


----------



## GiR

Hmm, thats kinda weird then. Ah well, not much I can do about it but wait


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am not real sure how the AD8397 could be considered rough, harsh and sibilant but still be more musical???? None of the meet participants noted these characteristics, but hey, all ears are different, right??_

 

OK, we disagree, but tell me what the major SQ problem with this opamp is, if it's not the above. It does have an increadible soundstage or imaging, it is detailed, it has lots and lots of energy, the bass is like no other with great slam and control and it has a warm mid. Since you find LM4562 better in certain ways, AD8397 can't be regarded as the perfect opamp, but what is lacking?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, we disagree, but tell me what the major SQ problem with this opamp is, if it's not the above. It does have an increadible soundstage or imaging, it is detailed, it has lots and lots of energy, the bass is like no other with great slam and control and it has a warm mid. Since you find LM4562 better in certain ways, AD8397 can't be regarded as the perfect opamp, but what is lacking?_

 

Clearly, there is no "perfect" opamp, but I find nothing lacking in the characteristics of the AD8397 that would preclude me from using it as a buffer. Some opamps sound better with it whereas others sound better with different buffers. Often the sonic characteristics of an opamp differ when using it as a buffer as opposed to the primary amplification. 

 It has also been my experience that opamps often sound different when used in different amps, so it is impossible to classify any device as the best in all applications. So much of our listening preferences are influenced by physiological and psychological factors that are very individual in nature, hence everyone perceives the sound of a given device in varying degrees of realism. 

 I cannot, however, think of any more enjoyable way to pass time than to continue to search for that elusive goal called "perfect sound"!!


----------



## Sieg9198

One question, does LM4562 need soldering??

 I did some search and it seems like they have different packaging type(SOIC,DIP) are they all the same??


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One question, does LM4562 need soldering??

 I did some search and it seems like they have different type(SOIC,DIP) are they all the same??_

 

Fortunately, the DIP version of the 4562 does not require soldering.


----------



## Sieg9198

They _are_ the same thing right? just different packaging.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mapstec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@yuheng: I have not tried to use the D1 as a preamp, but will do so and let you know what I think.

 @all: since I had a few of them here I couldn't resist and I put three AD4562 into the amp part, and I have to say I am loving it!

 With the stock Opamps I could't listen to my DT880. It is either late 70's or early 80's (I bought it used not knowing what I did ca 1985 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ), I do not know the Ohms on this beast.
 In stock configuration the D1 could not drive it, I had to almost use 100% volume to get reasonable output, but this still sounded flat and liveless.

 With the three AD4562 (not burned in!) I now sit here a happy camper listening to some Manfred Mann's Earth Band and have trouble writing since I just want to sit back and enjoy....


 So, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Be sure to report back on battery life. This goes for ALL youse opamp rollers


----------



## yuheng

DIP one, it have 8 legs...so no browndog needed.


----------



## leng jai

Does the D1 work in Vista via USB?


----------



## globiboulga

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *leng jai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the D1 work in Vista via USB?_

 

Like a charm. If you can't hear it, it sometimes does that, double click on the sound icon, go to manage devices, and enable the USB audio device again.

 The management of audio devices within Vista is sometimes weird.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Like a charm. If you can't hear it, it sometimes does that, double click on the sound icon, go to manage devices, and enable the USB audio device again.

 The management of audio devices within Vista is sometimes weird._

 

Not really like a charm, then. More like Windows 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not really like a charm, then. More like Windows 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ._

 

A cursed charm -2.


----------



## HiFlight

For those preferring to use the LM4562 buffer, I have found the following 4 opamps to be very compatible with this buffer. They all sound superb, with very subtle differences in soundstage and tonal balance. I am unable to rank them in any particular order as they all sound very good to me. 

 All 4 are 8 pin DIP configuration and will plug directly into the D1 socket without adapters. 

 OPA2111 Largest soundstage
 OP275 Warm and dynamic
 AD746 (dual version of AD744) Presence and detail 
 OPA2134 (old standby) Warm & good tonal balance

 I like them a lot, better than anything else I have yet tried with this buffer. YMMV!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For those preferring to use the LM4562 buffer, I have found the following 4 opamps to be very compatible with this buffer. They all sound superb, with very subtle differences in soundstage and tonal balance. I am unable to rank them in any particular order as they all sound very good to me. 

 All 4 are 8 pin DIP configuration and will plug directly into the D1 socket without adapters. 

 OPA2111 Largest soundstage
 OP275 Warm and dynamic
 AD746 (dual version of AD744) Presence and detail 
 OPA2134 (old standby) Warm & good tonal balance

 I like them a lot, better than anything else I have yet tried with this buffer. YMMV!_

 

Thanks.

 Is the OPA2111 still your choice for the AD8397 as buffers - this, as you know, is the setup I have getting done for me by yours truely.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks.

 Is the OPA2111 still your choice for the AD8397 as buffers - this, as you know, is the setup I have getting done for me by yours truely._

 

Yes, I think the 2111 is right up at the top. Some like the AD8066 but the 2111 has by far the largest soundstage with the 9397. The sound of the 2111 seems to please everyone who has listened to it. I am sure there are those who will prefer a different sound, but it is a great place to start as a benchmark reference.


----------



## zer010gic

I just upgrade the LR to the OPA2111 and I can tell you even with the stock buffers its a large improvement. There was something about the stock sound that I really did not like. Now with the 2111 it rocks.


----------



## souperman

I'm looking at the OP275 on newark. Whats the difference between PDIP and DIP?

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/bro...Ntt=OP275&Ntx=

 Is the GPZ the one I want to buy to plug into the D1 directly?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm looking at the OP275 on newark. Whats the difference between PDIP and DIP?

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/bro...Ntt=OP275&Ntx=

 Is the GPZ the one I want to buy to plug into the D1 directly?_

 

None...the P stands for plastic case. DIP is the case configuration.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_None...the P stands for plastic case. DIP is the case configuration._

 

Cool, so that's the one i should buy correct? Just want to make sure.


----------



## luidge

Just got my D1!!! This sound already excellent from my laptop usb, but i won't give a full out review untill i got all the upgrade parts i need and it is fairly well broken-in. But i can already say that i don't regret my purchase one bit!


----------



## yuheng

guys, u upgrade oni 823 to 2111? and additionally everybody using AD8656 rite?


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_guys, u upgrade oni 823 to 2111? and additionally everybody using AD8656 rite?_

 

The AD8656 is used in place of the AD8616 which is the op-amp out of the DAC section. Yes, the 8656 is a great one for the DAC.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The AD8656 is used in place of the AD8616 which is the op-amp out of the DAC section. Yes, the 8656 is a great one for the DAC._

 

thks for the explanation


----------



## Schalldampfer

Dex, how would you say your Ultrasone synergizes with the D1?


----------



## Monster_Omelette

My D1's finally been shipped, can't wait for it to arrive!


----------



## jamato8

Well I have tried the LM4562 and 49720 and prefer the 4562 as more transparent and better bass but I am not sure that I prefer the 4562 to the AD8397. I will have to let the 4562, which is new, burn in for a longer period of time.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I have tried the LM4562 and 49720 and prefer the 4562 as more transparent and better bass but I am not sure that I prefer the 4562 to the AD8397. I will have to let the 4562, which is new, burn in for a longer period of time._

 

Please report back!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I have tried the LM4562 and 49720 and prefer the 4562 as more transparent and better bass but I am not sure that I prefer the 4562 to the AD8397. I will have to let the 4562, which is new, burn in for a longer period of time._

 

Both are very good. Some of the opamps sound better with the 4562, some with the 8397. I don't think anyone can conclusively state that one is overall superior to the other. 

 Individual preferences will dictate which is chosen as a personal favorite.


----------



## jamato8

Well my D1 is sounding better and better. I have replaced the coupling caps for the dac output with Black Gate HiQ 47uf caps, the power supply cap for the low pass opamp with a Sanyo 150uf SG and the coupling caps for the amp section with Black Gate 47uf HiQ. All but two caps now are Sanyo for the digital section and Black Gates for the analogue section.

 The solder as I have noted before is very hard. If you use some normal solder to mix with it, it is much easy to wick up and work with. I was able to melt the solder and glide the cap leads into the hole without cleaning all the solder from the board. Cleaning all the solder is hard because some of the solder is still hard and doesn't wick well but when mixed you can wick some and heat the rest to allow the cap leads to go throw the hole.


----------



## luidge

Whoa jamato8, your D1 will be a hell of a franckenamp in the end my friend. How does all these operation to your D1 cost you?


----------



## jamato8

Around 15 or 20 dollars for the Black Gates. The nonpolar are the best and in this application they work very well.


----------



## tracyrick

Can someone make a list of the D1 mods that can be done easily, without any soldering work required? Price and best source company for those mods would be really cool also.

 There's no way if I bought a D1 I would start applying a soldering gun to it - and I'm guessing a lot of other people are in the same boat. But a drop-in replacement using some tweasers or something seems reasonable and possibly fun if the change in sound is noticeable...


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tracyrick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone make a list of the D1 mods that can be done easily, without any soldering work required? Price and best source company for those mods would be really cool also.

 There's no way if I bought a D1 I would start applying a soldering gun to it - and I'm guessing a lot of other people are in the same boat. But a drop-in replacement using some tweasers or something seems reasonable and possibly fun if the change in sound is noticeable..._

 

Opamps and buffers are the only things that you can plug and play and even then some opamps are DIP.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Opamps and buffers are the only things that you can plug and play and even then some opamps are DIP._

 

The DIP configuration opamps are what you want, if you want plug and play. SOIC opamps require mounting on an adapter. I would also suggest using some Radio Shack low profile IC sockets as stand-offs for the replacement opamps. It makes it much easier to install and remove. They only cost 69 cents for 2. (Part# 276-1995)

 I replaced only my coupling caps with the Blackgate HiQ caps. As Jamato stated, the solder is very hard and difficult to remove. I just drilled out the holes with my circuit board drill after removing the stock caps. I was hesitant to apply too much heat for fear of damaging a trace on the board. The results are very worthwhile, IMHO.


----------



## jamato8

Ron you are very correct and some traces lift right off on even quality boards and that can be such a pain but the pcb has taken a lot of heat with no ill consequences, much to my relief but who wants to lift a trace and then have to use a small piece of wire, etc. . so drilling out would be a good option. 

 Oh the sound is improving. My HD650's sound much better being more open and cleaner than before. They are really driven well but even the stock D1 drives them well but the sound now cascades down and around when playing Dire Straits (the bass is very solid and attack is very fast). Max volume with the 650's is around 1 oclock. The PROline 750's around 11 oclock.


----------



## HiFlight

I have found another opamp that sounds superb in the D1. It is the ADA4841-2 by Analog. This opamp is ultra low-noise, with great imaging and soundstage. Bass is deep and accurate while tonal balance is excellent throughout the entire audible range. 

 I like it well enough that I ordered a supply of them to mount on adapters. 

 The 3 opamps that I think do the D1 most justice are the OPA2111, AD8066 and the ADA4841-2. I think any of these will please the most critical ear.


----------



## elnero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 3 opamps that I think do the D1 most justice are the OPA2111, AD8066 and the ADA4841-2. I think any of these will please the most critical ear._

 

Can you list the differences and the strength's and weaknesses of the three?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elnero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you list the differences and the strength's and weaknesses of the three?_

 

And also which of the two buffers (LM4562 or AD8397) work best with these 3?


----------



## HiFlight

OPA2111: Very wide and expansive soundstage, very dimensional. 
 AD8066: Strong bass, good mids, good soundstage depth.
 ADA4841-2: Well balanced throughout the spectrum, sweet highs. 

 They all work very well with both buffers, just a matter of individual taste. The differences are relatively small, with subtle tonal and soundstage variations. The 8397 is slightly more assertive, the 4562 somewhat more intimate. 

 These should not be considered as the only opamps that sound good in the D1. They are simply my personal ranking. There are many others I have tried that also sound very good. 

 For those interested in experimenting with different opamps other than those listed above, I would encourage ordering a modest assortment of opamps directly from a distributor and determining ones own individual preferences. 

 It is very difficult to try to express verbally the subtle differences in SQ between several different opamps. What I hear and describe may be totally different than what someone else perceives.

 I can positively state that the improvements in both the DAC and amp sections of the D1 after modifications from stock are very apparent, even to the casual listener; furthermore, these improvements are apparent regardless of which phones I am using. 

 I should point out that as one improves the sonic quality and accuracy of any amp, it becomes less tolerant of poor source material or components!


----------



## jamato8

With regards to the 4562 and AD8397 I came to the same conclusion and I enjoy both of them. 

 Since modifying the D1 with Black Gates, and the settling/forming of these caps (I used some caps that had already been in a circuit so the forming of these Black Gates thankfully had already pretty much been done) the amp has taken on a very high end musical sound that I can not believe. I am glad that it is as big as it is so that I have room for the Black Gates and that there is room to change opamps and that it has a design that appears to be very good or the sound would not be at the level it is no matter what I do.

 Edit: the D1 has taken on a nice 3D presentation with very good spatial information and transparency.


----------



## tracyrick

So would this work then as 100% plug and play replacements? Anything I'm missing here?

 1 x OPA2111 - Opamp for Amp.
 $12.83 @ Digi-Key. Not in stock, but min. order only 1.
 $12.86 @ Newark, in stock.

 1 x AD8656 - Opamp for DAC (looks like no DIP version available?)

 2 x LM4562 - Buffer
 $5.38 ea. @ Digi-Key, in stock.
 $5.99 ea. @ Newark but none in stock.

 Also, how easy is "plug and play" in this case? Can I just use my fingers? Or some tweazers or a small wire cutting tool?


----------



## zer010gic

Yeah the only thing that would not be plug and play would the be AD8656. Which requires an adapter and could use a socket to act as a spacer since its kind of tight around the caps in the DAC.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tracyrick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So would this work then as 100% plug and play replacements? Anything I'm missing here?

 1 x OPA2111 - Opamp for Amp
 1 x AD8656 - Opamp for DAC (looks like no DIP version available?)
 2 x LM4562 - Buffer

 Also, how easy is "plug and play" in this case? Can I just use my fingers? Or some tweazers or a small wire cutting tool?_

 

A U shaped DIP puller from old computer memory chips/nvram, etc works best. A small flat bladed screwdriver works well too (those cheap $1.00 ones in PC repair kits long flat blade, plastic cylinder for handle, short phillips head on the other end). Just try to work all pins out of the socket at the same rate--don't angle the DIP up to free the left pins then work out the right pins. Try keeping the DIP parallel to the PCB as best you can.


----------



## jamato8

If you are in the US and near a Radio Shack just go down buy a coupld of cheap sockets for the opamps and buy any inexpensive dip opamp and practice with it. I use needle nose pliers and take my time so as to bend the pins very much.

 Edit: Correction for those who complained: I use needle nose pliers and take my time so as to bend, I mean not bend the pins very much. :^)


----------



## souperman

I'm just wondering, but what makes a opamp more expensive than another. For example, why is the OPA2111 so expensive as compared to say the OP2134?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I use needle nose pliers and take my time so as to bend the pins very much._

 

Why would you want to bend the pins a lot? If you want to bend the pins, you don't need pliers to screw those up! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			










 PS: we know what you "meant" to say, I think


----------



## PeterDLai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why would you want to bend the pins a lot? If you want to bend the pins, you don't need pliers to screw those up! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 PS: we know what you "meant" to say, I think 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ha, I caught that too.


----------



## zer010gic

I am currently running the OPA2111 in the LR. I have some LM4562 would they sound much better then stock buffers? Also do they produce more output then stock or less?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_would they sound much better then stock buffers?_

 

Only YOUR ears can tell you what sounds best. If we all like the same thing there would be only one headphone to rule them all...

 My advice: you all ready have it, so put it in and experiment to see what sounds best to YOUR ears.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am currently running the OPA2111 in the LR. I have some LM4562 would they sound much better then stock buffers? Also do they produce more output then stock or less?_

 

IMHO, the LM4562 sounds more accurate and lifelike than the 5532. The 5532 outputs about 38ma, whereas the 4562 provides approx. 26 ma. It is, however, capable of driving any dynamic headphone to a harmful level. 

 In comparison to the above output currents, the AD8397 used as a buffer is capable of over 300ma. It has a sound signature similar to the 4562 except its sound is bit more forward. The choice between the 4562 and 8397 is a matter of personal preference.


----------



## Bozz_Keren

i noticed on ibasso web, D1 is sold out, anyone knows when they're in stock again? btw do anyone know if optical out in D1 produce better SQ than USB out, because my SC got optical connection


----------



## jamato8

I got some more optical cables today from Sysconcept in Canada. I can't belive it only took about 4 days to get here. Anyway two are mini to mini and toslink to mini with an optical section about 1 inch and two mini to mini and mini to toslink with an optical section about 2 1 1/4 inches or 12mm and about 25mm. They are nice. The smallest has the outer insulation stripped off so it can make the tight bend, which would allow it to be used with an iRiver on top of the D1 and the shortest optical connection possible. I don't think anyone else in the industry would take the time and care to do this. They are expertly made and look great.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bozz_Keren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i noticed on ibasso web, D1 is sold out, anyone knows when they're in stock again? btw do anyone know if optical out in D1 produce better SQ than USB out, because my SC got optical connection_

 

i dont really trust on optical from soundcard

 let me make it clear, i have been done AB test for optical and USB test for my Zhaolu D2C

 this test is being auditioned by 3 guys in my local forum.

 first, we connect ZL thru USB spdif converter, which is my home setup, and it sound really sweet for my home speaker AEGO M, since my friend bring me a EMU1212 for play, so i install it to the computer, use the optical out to Zhaolu D2, and wat we get, less details,less on every aspect of SQ, and it come to a conclusion that soundcard optical out doesnt really sound as good as pure sources transferring(such as USB).

 if i were to rate it, i will say soundcard Optical 35% while Zhaolu having 85%...it is really very big differences on SQ...

 so from this i have come to another question. 
 iriver H120>D1>headphone
 USB>D1>headphone

 with same songs being compared, which one sound better?
 i dont have the chances to test it yet but i felt Iriver should sound better as pure on sources..

 correct me if i m wrong..

 yuheng


----------



## jamato8

Interesting. I prefer optical to USB. USB to me sounds artificial and mechanical. I am using an optical out of a Sony portable to either my Monica II or to the D1. I don't like the usb out of my PowerBook G4. I hear detail on optical like parting of lips, breathing, tiny teeny sounds in crowds of liver performances and so on and so forth.


----------



## jamato8

What I don't like about my modified D1 with all the Black Gates and different opamps:

 It is getting to close to being as good or bettering my Monica II and if it does this I will be upset because, well, I really care a lot for Monica and I do not want to incur her, I mean the dac, well ok, her wrath.


----------



## Bozz_Keren

heck, its better if i test them both with optical and USB, now i'm waiting in vain for D1 to avail again..


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. I prefer optical to USB. USB to me sounds artificial and mechanical. I am using an optical out of a Sony portable to either my Monica II or to the D1. I don't like the usb out of my PowerBook G4. I hear detail on optical like parting of lips, breathing, tiny teeny sounds in crowds of liver performances and so on and so forth._

 

that come to my point, i assume the cleaner the sources it sound, the better the sound.

 so i would rate that 
 Iriver optical>USB> sound card optical..

 jz based on my AB test, i felt that soundcard(EMU1212) optical destroy the details due to complex on connection.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I hear detail on optical like parting of lips, breathing, tiny teeny sounds in crowds of liver performances and so on and so forth._

 

The only liver performance that I've heard of was the scene in Monty Python's Meaning of Life, "Sir, we've come for your liver..."

 I could hear the screams equally well via optical or USB input.


----------



## jamato8

How did I come up with "liver"? :^) Ok, Johnny, time to go to bed. See you guys tomorrow.


----------



## GiR

Finally 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Mine just arrived! Woot Woot


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting. I prefer optical to USB. USB to me sounds artificial and mechanical. I am using an optical out of a Sony portable to either my Monica II or to the D1. I don't like the usb out of my PowerBook G4. I hear detail on optical like parting of lips, breathing, tiny teeny sounds in crowds of liver performances and so on and so forth._

 

Optical is much more dependent on the source because the master clock resides there. USB is independent because the master clock resides in the external DAC, but because most DAC chips operate with SPDIF, the USB signal is first converted to SPDIF where jitter is introduced. This could account for the artificiality you are hearing. Maybe you want to try a USB Monica - it might be an even better Monica!

 It is interesting that Skylab's review was made only with USB and analog inputs. I suspect that his impressions would have been even more pronounced if he had reviewed the D1 with optical input.


----------



## Strings

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got some more optical cables today from Sysconcept in Canada. I can't belive it only took about 4 days to get here. Anyway two are mini to mini and toslink to mini with an optical section about 1 inch and two mini to mini and mini to toslink with an optical section about 2 1 1/4 inches or 12mm and about 25mm. They are nice. The smallest has the outer insulation stripped off so it can make the tight bend, which would allow it to be used with an iRiver on top of the D1 and the shortest optical connection possible. I don't think anyone else in the industry would take the time and care to do this. They are expertly made and look great._

 

That's my D1 just getting shipped to me, so a quick 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 is necessary.

 Going to order the cables I need from Sysconcept... but I'm not actually sure which ones I'll need.

 Will be using my H-140 as a source... what would you recommend? Definitely want it so it's the shortest connection possible between the iRiver and the D1.

 Was thinking perhaps of going for a toslink-to-toslink and getting 2 toslink-to-mini adaptors for flexibility sake.


----------



## GiR

It comes with a toslink-toslink unless you went for the no accessories pack. So you may be better going for a mini-toslink of the right size for portable use between h120/140 and D1 and then getting the adaptor aswell so that you have a backup that can be used with the supplied cable (its a lot longer than needed)

 Quoted once again from somewhere deep down in this thread:

 the MiniPlug to Toslink cable will be 15.5cm
 long. This will give you comfortable (without strain) "U" shape bend radius
 and connectors will be parallel to each other


----------



## MoAv

I just received mine. Took about 5-6 days to Israel which is SUPER fast. So all of you who's waiting, you can hold your breath for it.

 Since my H120 is waiting for the optical cable purchased at the suggested Canadian company, I used it with my computer via USB, and the first question was what is better, the USB or optical for digital connection. and just when I've decided to post someone else did this for me.
 I'll try to distinct the two from my onboard lousy sound card, so it should be fairly obvious if the sound does differ.
 This would have consequences if driving my HD595 from the iRiver using the D1 via optical will have downgrade affect in SQ.
 I realy don't know about what clock or frequencies the H120 uses sending the digital sound out but I'll found out from the Rockbox community.

 I'm not going to try any modification soon with my iBasso cause honestly this is my first DAC/amp and I realy don't think my HD595 will benefit as well as higher quality phones.

 I know it's too soon to say this as I've heard the sound should be getting better, ALOT better but I LOVE my new iBasso D1 !

 Thanks for the info you guys for helping me make the right decision.

 MoAv


----------



## jamato8

On the optical cables my measurements are just the cable but not the connector ends, which of course also add length. With the shortest I mention there is just enough length for a U and about 2cm from tip to tip on the U. this would allow for a iRiver or like device sitting on the D1. If you get it in toslink to toslink and get two of the right angle adapters, which work very well, you can have a short U not projecting out but lying along side of the ends of the D1 and iRiver. Or you could also get a mini to toslink (I got both) in the shorter length and have the U extending on out from the back of the units. I wish now I had gotten a tos to tos and ppurchased two 90 degree adapters. I also go the longer length in both toslink and mini to allow for a little more separation, though not much, or a different component with a toslink or mini out to the mini in of the D1. There, how is that. :^)

 The shortest length, end to end as specified by Sys. Concept is 9.5cm and the longer one I got is 13.5 from one end to the other end of the entire optical cable including ends.


----------



## Sieg9198

one question, how long is the optical cable and coax cable that came with the D1??


----------



## MoAv

The optical is 1 meter and the coax is 1.5 I think.
 I've found a serious problem after connecting the D1 to the USB. I've suddenly heard a decrease in the right side by about 30%. That happend after I've increased the volume to the 2 o'clock position. I tried everything but I was sure it's the DAC.
 Post factum it has nothing to do with the USB. I've tried plug in the optical in with the sound card, but just as I've pulled the cup from the D1's optical it came back again !(the full sound)
 So basically some connection inside maybe messed up .
 Anybody else had this fault ?


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoAv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The optical is 1 meter and the coax is 1.5 I think.
 I've found a serious problem after connecting the D1 to the USB. I've suddenly heard a decrease in the right side by about 30%. That happend after I've increased the volume to the 2 o'clock position. I tried everything but I was sure it's the DAC.
 Post factum it has nothing to do with the USB. I've tried plug in the optical in with the sound card, but just as I've pulled the cup from the D1's optical it came back again !(the full sound)
 So basically some connection inside maybe messed up .
 Anybody else had this fault ?_

 

Great!! long enough from my PC to it


----------



## StevieDvd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoAv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The optical is 1 meter and the coax is 1.5 I think.
 I've found a serious problem after connecting the D1 to the USB. I've suddenly heard a decrease in the right side by about 30%. That happend after I've increased the volume to the 2 o'clock position. I tried everything but I was sure it's the DAC.
 Post factum it has nothing to do with the USB. I've tried plug in the optical in with the sound card, but just as I've pulled the cup from the D1's optical it came back again !(the full sound)
 So basically some connection inside maybe messed up .
 Anybody else had this fault ?_

 

In the slip of paper that counts as the manual it mentions an internal chip which detects the connection type, so I guess switching connections whilst the amp is connected can be an issue. If I recall correctly you may need to do a power cycle to pickup a different connection type.

 If someone has the manual to hand perhaps they can comment - I'm at work so cannot access mine at the moment.


----------



## jamato8

I have found that for some connection you need to power off the D1 and for some you don't. I just power it off and then back on when I make a new connection.


----------



## MoAv

OK but I didn't plug anything to the DAC when it happened, I just unplugged the tiny cup on the optical in. The one that prevent dust to go in, and because of the snap some connection inside got loose (I recon) And sometimes vibration like tapping on my desk when the DAC is on it will set the volume straight.
 So even when I powercycle the DAC it still keep the 30% lower volume on the right side till I touch the optical plug (the female on the device) or bang it a little (which pains me to do :..( )
 Clearly something is wrong and I've notified iBasso and waiting for reply.


----------



## jamato8

Yes, it sounds like something is wrong. I haven't read of this problem and have none with my unit. They do seem to have very good customer service and try hard to please, which is nice compared to many companies that are a pain to get a hold of.


----------



## HiFlight

MoAv....
 There are 2 simple things you might try, just in hopes that you can get it working...First, blow several puffs of air into the optical input, in case there is a bit of foreign material interrupting the light beam. Second, remove the 4 front panel hex screws and the one Phillips screw from the back, then slide the circuit board out from the front about half way. The rearmost IC, sitting on a pedestal by itself is an AD8616, which is the DAC opamp. Try lifting it slightly and reseating to ensure you don't have a poor socket connection, as both L & R channels pass thru that opamp.


----------



## souperman

If I run the D1 through optical through the TBAAM would it basically be the same as running it through USB D1 because the TBAAM is also run through USB? Correct me if I'm making a major error. Just trying to learn.


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I run the D1 through optical through the TBAAM would it basically be the same as running it through USB D1 because the TBAAM is also run through USB? Correct me if I'm making a major error. Just trying to learn._

 

Yes, but one USB to SPDIF converter chip might sound better than the other...


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, but one USB to SPDIF converter chip might sound better than the other..._

 

Could you explain? The D1 plugging in through USB isn't SPDIF right? The TBAAM is a pretty cheap thing though. It probably wouldn't be good to also run it through the TBAAM and THEN through spdif. Isn't it the less amount things in the pathway the better it is?


----------



## MoAv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_MoAv....
 There are 2 simple things you might try, just in hopes that you can get it working...First, blow several puffs of air into the optical input, in case there is a bit of foreign material interrupting the light beam. Second, remove the 4 front panel hex screws and the one Phillips screw from the back, then slide the circuit board out from the front about half way. The rearmost IC, sitting on a pedestal by itself is an AD8616, which is the DAC opamp. Try lifting it slightly and reseating to ensure you don't have a poor socket connection, as both L & R channels pass thru that opamp._

 

Thanks I'll give it a go this weekend, I'll notify if there're any changes. Which Torx screwdriver should I use ?


----------



## HiFlight

It is not a torx, but a small hex. It is probably metric, but a 5/64" hex fits just fine.


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could you explain? The D1 plugging in through USB isn't SPDIF right? The TBAAM is a pretty cheap thing though. It probably wouldn't be good to also run it through the TBAAM and THEN through spdif. Isn't it the less amount things in the pathway the better it is?_

 

The D1 uses a PCM2906 to convert USB to S/PDIF before it reaches the DAC. I don't know what chip the TBAAM uses - maybe it's the same one. Try out your options and see what sounds best to you.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The D1 uses a PCM2906 to convert USB to S/PDIF before it reaches the DAC. I don't know what chip the TBAAM uses - maybe it's the same one. Try out your options and see what sounds best to you._

 

Ah, I see.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could you explain? The D1 plugging in through USB isn't SPDIF right? The TBAAM is a pretty cheap thing though. It probably wouldn't be good to also run it through the TBAAM and THEN through spdif. Isn't it the less amount things in the pathway the better it is?_

 

will give it a try when my unit come..i've usb spdif on hand.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bozz_Keren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i noticed on ibasso web, D1 is sold out, anyone knows when they're in stock again?_

 

I received an email two days ago saying they had been waiting for component parts and that they were going to send me my D1. I wonder if they will now make more and have them in stock.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kiwirugby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received an email two days ago saying they had been waiting for component parts and that they were going to send me my D1. I wonder if they will now make more and have them in stock._

 

Stock shmok. JUST SEND ME MY 2ND ONE.


----------



## splawren

I'm confused and a bit irked. I ordered one on 9/12 - they charged my paypal, but they never sent any order confirmation/acknowledgment or any delivery status updates. Two emails to them since asking for confirmation and/or updates have gone completely unanswered. Not an auspicious way to start. Anyone else have this problem of no confirmation, delay and no contact?


----------



## yuheng

normally ibasso wont delay for email, as an dealer in malaysia, i think i have sent more than 50 emails to them. they always reply me within few hours, btw, they are not working on Saturday and Sunday...


----------



## GiR

When i first spoke to them, i got a reply within a few hours, recently it has been a few days. My guess is parts have arrived for the backlog of orders they have and are working to get them done. Instead of 3-4 people sitting around able to answer emails, maybe its only one person for 30 mins a day currently while they work through the backlog?


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *splawren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm confused and a bit irked. I ordered one on 9/12 - they charged my paypal, but they never sent any order confirmation/acknowledgment or any delivery status updates. Two emails to them since asking for confirmation and/or updates have gone completely unanswered. Not an auspicious way to start. Anyone else have this problem of no confirmation, delay and no contact?_

 

Well I have ordered two of them now. The first one there was no confirmation until they shipped the unit, which was about 3 days. The second one I ordered on the 16th and got a message the next day that they were out of stock and there would be a 1-2 week delay before shipping. 

 To be honest I would not get too uptight. So far iBasso has a good record of customer service, it very likely that they have a backlog of orders to fill now that the word is out how nice the D1 is. They are probably putting in some long hours to catch up.


----------



## splawren

Update - After the second email, I got a response today saying the d1 was shipping and should arrive Tuesday. Good news - psyched. While they are swamped, they still need to ensure good communication with the customer, however impatient, unreasonable or annoying he may be . . .


----------



## Strings

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lot's of cable talk..._

 

That's excellent mate. Cheers for that. Already ordered the tos to tos with adapters, so should be perfect. Thinking I should have ordered a backup though.


----------



## OverlordXenu

Anyone know where I could get a mini to coaxial cable?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *OverlordXenu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know where I could get a mini to coaxial cable?_

 

https://www.sysconcept.ca

 I ordered one yesterday. I cannot comment on the build quality yet, but others here already have.

 I can say that their customer service is TOP notch.

 I ordered a custom length and didn't know how long I wanted it be, they replied in minuets all the way through our conversation until they knew what I wanted. Showed pictures of examples and ext. 

 Not too long later that day, I got an email from them saying they shipped it. Not an automated email, they personal typed it out and everything.

 Real personal company. A++ from me.


----------



## souperman

Wow I never realized how easily bendable the DIP pins were. I just bought some IC socket and really cheap RS opamps to practice putting in and taking out. Hopefully I don't do damage to my amp!


----------



## OverlordXenu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_https://www.sysconcept.ca

 I ordered one yesterday. I cannot comment on the build quality yet, but others here already have.

 I can say that their customer service is TOP notch.

 I ordered a custom length and didn't know how long I wanted it be, they replied in minuets all the way through our conversation until they knew what I wanted. Showed pictures of examples and ext. 

 Not too long later that day, I got an email from them saying they shipped it. Not an automated email, they personal typed it out and everything.

 Real personal company. A++ from me._

 

Do they do coaxial? Last I saw on their site, they just did optical.

 (I just need coax/coaxial, I'm going to get a pacemaker, and that does digital out via the mini (3/8"?) out, over coaxial...I just don't know how to really get a cable for that...


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow I never realized how easily bendable the DIP pins were. I just bought some IC socket and really cheap RS opamps to practice putting in and taking out. Hopefully I don't do damage to my amp!_

 

Yeah, back in the day people used to upgrade their computer memory by inserting or pulling DIPs. This is why PC toolkits have DIP inserters and pullers. What people use them for now on PCs is a mystery to me.

 Anyway if you have one of these kits you might find it useful.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *OverlordXenu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know where I could get a mini to coaxial cable?_

 

Google "digital mini to RCA"

 Here's the first one that came up for me:

RAM Custom Shop












 They use Belden cable and do custom lengths.


----------



## jamato8

For digital coax you normally do not want to go too short as reflections of the digital signal can affect the transmission. A study found that 6 feet worked the best. I realize that most people do not want to go this long if not needed but it is something to think about.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Google "digital mini to RCA"

 Here's the first one that came up for me:

RAM Custom Shop











 They use Belden cable and do custom lengths. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Very nice cable you have there! Blue Jean Cable uses the 1505F or the 1694A (both by Bleden) for their coaxial digital cables as well. I am very satisfied with its performace and price.


----------



## Dash

I hope to hear some hopped up D1s at the S FL meet next month.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope to hear some hopped up D1s at the S FL meet next month._

 

I will likely have mine there, Blackgate coupling caps and different opamps throughout. 

 Sound is outstanding, IMHO.


----------



## HiFlight

I got in some AD8066, AD8397, OPA2111 opamps...still awaiting the AD8656 and ADA4841-2 .....time to break out the soldering iron. :>)


----------



## jamato8

I am listening to K.D. Lang in Shadow Land and it hasn't sounded much better than this, ever. Great depth, separation of singers and instruments and tremendous dynamics. Great fun. The D1 is getting better than I thought it could. As I watch the Pacific with waves crashing in on the beach and the sun setting, loads of fun.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

@jamato

 So can you give us a list of your final mods? (op amps/buffers/caps/ext)


----------



## jamato8

I listed the cap changes on the first page, my first post but I have not finalized the opamps yet but I am using the 8066 and two 4572's in the amp section with the AD8656 in the dac low pass section.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

I forgot there was a first post


----------



## bpfiguer

I just received (ordered on Monday) two "free samples" AD8656ARZ (Op-Amp upgrade for the iBasso D1 DAC) from Analog Devices by UPS 2nd Day Air. To order the "free samples", you must have an university/company e-mail (not Yahoo, Google or Hotmail). At Newark.com there is a waiting period of 45 days for the AD8656ARZ.


----------



## souperman

Can't wait for my D1!


----------



## jamato8

Nice day. 

 K.D. is sounding better and better. If you get Black Gates don't forget that they keep changing for the first 400 hours or so and then keep getting better for a few more hundred. Just my experience and that of Audio Note UK.


----------



## OverlordXenu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Google "digital mini to RCA"

 Here's the first one that came up for me:

RAM Custom Shop











 They use Belden cable and do custom lengths. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks. I'd been looking, but I didn't really know what to search for.


----------



## Monster_Omelette

Received my D1 today, so far, it's gotten about 4-5 hours of classical and rock. This was my first headphone amp and I wasn't quite sure what to expect despite spending lots of time of head-fi reading threads recently(and especially this particular one!) All I can say is that my wallet will only suffer more from this point onward 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I ran the D1 through my laptop (USB), using Winamp (for rock) and foobar (for classical), leading out to a pair of HD 280s. Tracks were mostly WMA lossless or 320 kbps. 

 Almost immediately, I noticed that the soundstage was more open (although I'm aware that the 280s are poor in this aspect to begin with.) However, as I continued listening, I was able to pick up more details in the music (pedal changes, fingers on the ivory, full 'sets' of echoes for vocalists [if that made any sense, sorry if it didn't] to name a few.) Bass felt deeper with more extension, and the treble was less shrilly and sibilant (the latter applying to only specific artists and recordings, although again, this has been pointed out as another criticism of the 280s.) 

 I must admit, at first, I didn't think an amp would end up making this much of a difference! (although remember, this is my first amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) Now though, I'm surprised by how long I've gone without one! (especially since I listen to a lot of classical music) Sounds like it'll only get better too once I burn it in for a while (and then there's the topic of op-amps.) From here though it'll only get more expensive (aghhh, I'm eyeing for a higher-end phone, and those Denon D5000 look mighty tempting...) For now though until I raise funds for anything in that price range, I can definitely suffice for the time being!


----------



## jamato8

Frankly I think you have made a lucky buy because many people search for a while spending money and selling amps to get to a good one. This isn't always the case but with your purchase I think you happened on a good one that is better than most out there and at a very good price. As you mention, do some opamp rolling and enjoy even more.


----------



## Monster_Omelette

That certainly seems like the case; guess I picked the right time to jump into amplifiers.


----------



## jirams

Got D1 - this device will be an all time classic. In 'as delivered' vanilla it is a superb performer. At moment I cannot see the need to start getting in about it with other components - let's wait and see how it pans out over the next month's use. I can't understand you guys who are getting parts ready to adapt one before you even have heard it?

 Would have liked to see it with switchable gain and if it had switchable crossfeed then - wow.

 Used with Acer laptop in USB mode ~ iPod 5g analog in mode ~ Sony D-EJ1000 PCDP in optical dig mode.

 DT880 ~ HD600 ~ HD25

 Enjoy your D1s

 Regards to all

 IanR


----------



## mapstec

Just a question to all those who played with the innards of their D1:

 Is the USB part really feeding into the DAC section, or to the Amp part?

 While playing around with a few Opamps I had lying around (and no, nothing to write about, the stock 8616 is back for the moment), I always thought that the SQ only changed when I connected the iriver H120 via optical and not when I hooked the D1 up via USB.

 Weird... Is it only me?


----------



## OverlordXenu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mapstec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the USB part really feeding into the DAC section, or to the Amp part?_

 

...Think about it...

 Hint: USB = Digital.


----------



## Colscot

You guys are lucky. Ordered mine 9/11 and still don't have it. They say they sent it by UPS but the tracking info still hasn't been updated. Anyone else have the same issues when ordering ? Seems like some folks here got theirs in just a few days.

 Colin


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Colscot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You guys are lucky. Ordered mine 9/11 and still don't have it. They say they sent it by UPS but the tracking info still hasn't been updated. Anyone else have the same issues when ordering ? Seems like some folks here got theirs in just a few days.

 Colin_

 

you should be worried but I would wait to ask questions after 2 weeks and it's still not there yet.

 But still be worried because it may take time to get to you, but if UPS doesn't update the tracking by now... something is wrong.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mapstec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a question to all those who played with the innards of their D1:

 Is the USB part really feeding into the DAC section, or to the Amp part?
_

 

Yes the usb signal is converted to a spdif signal and then into the dac (at least that is hoe I understand it).


----------



## dagobah

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bpfiguer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received (ordered on Monday) two "free samples" AD8656ARZ (Op-Amp upgrade for the iBasso D1 DAC) from Analog Devices by UPS 2nd Day Air. To order the "free samples", you must have an university/company e-mail (not Yahoo, Google or Hotmail). At Newark.com there is a waiting period of 45 days for the AD8656ARZ._

 

I knew nothing about this -- much thanks for the tip. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Now I just need to wait for the D1 to be re-stocked.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Do you use the line out on the h120 with D1 DAC/amp or just the line in?

 I ask because I got bored today and preformed an "imod" type mod on my iriver by replacing the stock caps on the line out with Elena Silmic II's. I left the resistors there. (iriver has very clean signals on everything)


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you use the line out on the h120 with D1 DAC/amp or just the line in?

 I ask because I got bored today and preformed an "imod" type mod on my iriver by replacing the stock caps on the line out with Elena Silmic II's. I left the resistors there. (iriver has very clean signals on everything)_

 

With the H120, the line out into the D1 front aux input sounds good, but the optical out to the D1 optical in sounds much better. The optical out is one of the high points of the iRiver.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I've been compairing the iRiver headphone out vs the 5.5G ipod headphone out, and the iRiver does seem to have more sound stage and midrange presense and warmth compaired to the iPod which sounds thinner.

 The iPod line out dock makes a noticable improvement over it's headphones, cming closer to the nice sound from the iRiver. Overall, I am impressed with the iRiver sound qulaity even when not using the optical out. Hmmm. Time for an iMod on my 80gb...


----------



## pearljam5000

does the D1 have good synergy with K-701?does it have enough power to drive it?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

I don't know anything about balanced amps, but would it be possible to mod the D1 and re-route the line out to make the D1 balanced? 

 I got the idea form: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...d+portable+amp

 balancing my er4p would be worth it if I had a balanced portable amp/Dac.


 oh and it would be using mini-connectors... not xlr lol


----------



## OverlordXenu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know anything about balanced amps, but would it be possible to mod the D1 and re-route the line out to make the D1 balanced? 

 I got the idea form: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...d+portable+amp

 balancing my er4p would be worth it if I had a balanced portable amp/Dac.


 oh and it would be using mini-connectors... not xlr lol_

 

The DAC and amp would have to support it.


----------



## MoAv

Regarding HeadphoneAddict H120 SQ impressions and the fact that I'm almost 3 year user that spent countless hours probably somewhere around 300 with my H140 supporting a pair of HD595 I say this : The SQ directly from the H140 is BETTER in some ways then MY D1. Now it could be that something is wrong with my device ( still haven't solved the volume drop on the right side when connected to the power supply ), and could be that my HD595 are somewhat basic phones to get the D1 really purl. but the headout has just the better quality right now. Note that the D1 has only 50 hours of burn-in with no modification, stock optical cable and a guy that bought his first amp a few days ago. On the iRiver end, it's Rockboxed with the latest bleeding edge firmware thus the SQ is enhanced to the max. Please someone tell me that I'm hallucinating or that my D1 must be damaged.

 MoAv


----------



## jamato8

Are you comparing the iRiver using the line out to the D1 or using the optical out using the D1 dac?

 The headphone out of my Sony D303 is very, very good and will compete with many portable amps. This was a big surprise to me as later Sony internal amps went down hill and sound fair for the most part.


----------



## MoAv

Yes I'm using the optical out, with a thin 2mm optical cable came with the iRiver (don't know if the optical cable thickness have any contribution to the signal quailty when it's less then 1 meter).
 The bass is very tight and weak on the D1 where on the H140 is strong and fading out like in real life.The treble is almost the same maybe a bit better on iRiver. Mids for a change the D1 takes it but only because it's the lesser of two evils, and the iRiver has better sound stage.
 I think the phones play a big part here. they are not high impedance so fairly easy to drive, and not so advance or high end so it's max out with only the iRiver. BTW, the USB is better and has that WOW effect when played on my PC and much better then the other two just compared.
 One other thing I've noticed. When the D1 is plugged to AC and chraging there's a static electricity on the body panel and when you touch it (doesn't hurt) there's a hiss on the phones. Quite frankly I'm quite disappointed with the D1 on the optical way, and would not recomand it for H120+HD595 user. those two are good enough.


----------



## jamato8

From all that I have read, as I don't have my iRiver yet, something is wrong with the D1 and iRiver combination. Short reviews have shown that the D1 and iRiver with optical out is very good. Bass is not one area that I have found the D1 to be lacking in. I am not sure what to tell you.


----------



## souperman

For those that soldered their SOIC amps onto brown dog adapters:

 What did you use to hold the browndog adapters while you soldered? Did you just rest it on the flat workspace you were working on? I am recently getting into soldering so I need some help with adapter soldering. I watched Tangent's video on surface mounting so I have a general idea and am going to start practicing on a spare brown dog adapter.


----------



## jamato8

I use some forceps that have the tips sprung so they don't go together, so they don't apply too much pressure on the smd. I solder one leg of the chip and then it will not move. I also use a magnifying lens to make sure everything is lined up and I have good clean solder applied without accidently getting some solder on the next trace, which can happen.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

radioshack has a "third hand" for ~$15

 Now they come with magnifying lens. It is only like 1.5X at most, but it helps put more light in your eyes, thus improving resolution. 

 Also a tip for using it: when you put a delicate part in the clamps, I like to put a soft material in between to relive pressure.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_radioshack has a "third hand" for ~$15

 Now they come with magnifying lens. It is only like 1.5X at most, but it helps put more light in your eyes, thus improving resolution. 

 Also a tip for using it: when you put a delicate part in the clamps, I like to put a soft material in between to relive pressure._

 

I can't seem to find it on their website. Mind linking me to it?

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?...me=MCMProducts

 I was looking at something like that. Would that be too big of a contraption to hold on brown dog adapters?

 Also what is the cheapest thing I could find to practice soldering on cheap SOIC opamps that I have?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't seem to find it on their website. Mind linking me to it?

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?...me=MCMProducts

 I was looking at something like that. Would that be too big of a contraption to hold on brown dog adapters?

 Also what is the cheapest thing I could find to practice soldering on cheap SOIC opamps that I have?_

 

That looks close to the one radioshack sells. Lots of ways to adjust everything. I never used that one you listed but it is cheaper, price wise, than the one I've got. So I'd say order that one, or just go into a radioshack store and get one.

 And I don't know much about cheap things to practice on. But THESE brown dogs seem cheap. I'd suggest ordering a few extra ones to practice soldering a cheap SOIC amp(any cheap one) onto, unless you already have extras.

 I don't think there is anything cheaper to practice on.

 Edit: also think of it as an investment in DIY. A third hand will go a long way. You wont regret it.


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For those that soldered their SOIC amps onto brown dog adapters:

 What did you use to hold the browndog adapters while you soldered? Did you just rest it on the flat workspace you were working on? I am recently getting into soldering so I need some help with adapter soldering. I watched Tangent's video on surface mounting so I have a general idea and am going to start practicing on a spare brown dog adapter._

 

Use your fingers! Either put a small amount of solder to ONE opamp pin and the corresponding on the BrownDog and solder the SOIC on place and then solder the rest (with a little bit of weight on it so you get metal to metal contact). Or squeeze the opamp to the BrownDog with your fingers and hold the pin you're about to solder in close proximity to the solder and quickly apply some solder.

 Whatever method you use, you almost always get to much solder. Remove the excessive solder with a solder wick.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From all that I have read, as I don't have my iRiver yet, something is wrong with the D1 and iRiver combination. Short reviews have shown that the D1 and iRiver with optical out is very good. Bass is not one area that I have found the D1 to be lacking in. I am not sure what to tell you._

 

Did you mean to say, "...something is wrong with your D1 and iRiver combination. Short reviews have shown that the D1 and iRiver with optical out is very good for other people...".

 Because, while my headphone out on my iRiver is a little better than that on my iPod, the opitcal out of my iRiver into my D1 and then HD600's IS SUPERIOR to my iRiver headphone out directly to my HD600's

 That makes me suspect the problem may be with his equipment.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you mean to say, "...something is wrong with your D1 and iRiver combination. Short reviews have shown that the D1 and iRiver with optical out is very good for other people...".

 Because, while my headphone out on my iRiver is a little better than that on my iPod, the opitcal out of my iRiver into my D1 and then HD600's IS SUPERIOR to my iRiver headphone out directly to my HD600's

 That makes me suspect the problem may be with his equipment._

 

Yes, I meant to say something is wrong with YOUR D1 and iRiver combo. Sorry, sorry. 

 Everyone seems to really like the optical in to the D! and the D! amp combo. 

 Listening to Jackson Browne's latest live album right now. Man is this good. . . so much fun and life. . . depth and open clean sound. . . . dynamic. . . like I have a window to the performance with no glass in the way.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Everyone seems to really like the optical in to the D! and the D! amp combo. _

 

I see I'm not the only one having trouble with a capital letter followed by a number


----------



## Schalldampfer

Is there still a 1-2 week wait time?


----------



## PeterDLai

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there still a 1-2 week wait time?_

 

Well considering that they posted this on their website:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iBasso* 
_Greeting,

 D1 is temporarily out of stock. It will back to stock again after we receive our new enclosure supply. It probably takes 1~2 weeks from now. (Sept 14th, 2007)_

 

It looks like it might be in stock again on... September 28th? (two weeks from posting date). Hopefully?


----------



## MoAv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Everyone seems to really like the optical in to the D! and the D! amp combo. 

 Listening to Jackson Browne's latest live album right now. Man is this good. . . so much fun and life. . . depth and open clean sound. . . . dynamic. . . like I have a window to the performance with no glass in the way._

 

Well the two option are quite close, and I'm not saying the D1 is all that bad. It just may be that the H140 rockboxed+HD595 is very good and the D1 has nothing better to offer. Again the HD595 is low impedance and very easy to drive for a mid-end phones. plus the iRiver got about 300+ hours on the phones.
 I'm getting a new D1 from iBasso cause of unsolved problem I had. I'll have both for a few days to see if there's any problem with mine or not.


----------



## HiFlight

My D1 when fed with my Rockboxed H120 optical out sounds much better than my H120 alone thru the headphone out. It also sounds better when feeding the headphone out thru the D1, but the optical is better, IMHO.


----------



## zer010gic

Any one else notice that there amp seems to work better once its warmed up for a few seconds.


 Corey


----------



## jamato8

For a few seconds? How would you hear the difference in a few seconds or how would it matter? It takes about 1 minute for the caps to settle. If you turn it on after having it off for a while and turn the volume control back and forth you will hear static. This will occur for about 1 minute. 

 I leave mine on all the time as I find this does produce the best sound.


----------



## zer010gic

I noticed the static at turn on as well but mine disappears after like 10 seconds. Also alot of times I will hook up my set up and listen to something then later after not listening a while it will sound better so a min or two is logical. Instead of "seconds" I probably should have said "moments".


----------



## jamato8

Yes, but how long is a moment? Just kidding. I have found over the years that all components need time to warm up. The caps need to come up to speed, the resistors need to heat up as they pass current. I have found a couple of hours as a rule of thumb and leave what I am going to use on all the time. Tube equipment is another thing although I have a couple of pieces I have made that run the tubes easy enough that on my home unit, when I am using it, they also stay on all the time.


----------



## souperman

What's the easiest way to open up the D1 without taking too many things off?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the easiest way to open up the D1 without taking too many things off?_

 

I think some said before that you just need to take off the one phillips screw off the back.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think some said before that you just need to take off the one phillips screw off the back._

 

Oh perfect, thanks.


----------



## jamato8

I take out the phillips screw in the back and then the 4 screws on the front faceplate.


----------



## souperman

oh you don't need to take out the back hex screws?


----------



## jamato8

No, just the front ones. The volume control is attached to the front plate so you slip the interanl organs out the front. 

 Jam


----------



## mrarroyo

Depending on the fit you may have to loosen the 4 screws on the back corners. This to allow the usb/coaxial/optical to properly slide into their respective holes.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Depending on the fit you may have to loosen the 4 screws on the back corners. This to allow the usb/coaxial/optical to properly slide into their respective holes._

 

I normally use a small instrument and gently lift the usb as it slides to the rear plate as that is the only piece that does not slide right back into place. On something like this I would imagine everyone's milage will vary. 

 Jam


----------



## souperman

Dang, one thing I don't like about the D1 is that the LED on the back is always on when connected. Keeps me up at night . However, the sound is excellent. I have LM4562 buffers in with the OP275 that HiFlight suggested for warm and dynamic sound. It sounds incredible right now. I'll have to swap out the DAC opamp as well.


----------



## Bozz_Keren

hi suoperman, how's ur MS1 amped with D1? any notable signature difference?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bozz_Keren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi suoperman, how's ur MS1 amped with D1? any notable signature difference?_

 

I feel there is a great increase in soundstage, and the bass is wonderful. I love the impact and quality of the bass of the D1. It makes me enjoy my MS1's even more.


----------



## Yukon Trooper

How would the iBasso be at driving low ohm cans like the ATH-AD900 and Denon D2000's? This amp/dac combo good for rock? I actually have LM4562's I can drop in it as well.


----------



## Bozz_Keren

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I feel there is a great increase in soundstage, and the bass is wonderful. I love the impact and quality of the bass of the D1. It makes me enjoy my MS1's even more._

 

does it make MS1 warmer, do u change the opamp? cause i'm searching for warm signature


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Yukon Trooper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How would the iBasso be at driving low ohm cans like the ATH-AD900 and Denon D2000's? This amp/dac combo good for rock? I actually have LM4562's I can drop in it as well._

 

I think the iBasso would pair great with anything depending on the sound signature you are looking for because you can just roll in the opamp you want. LM4562's are a great improvement by themselves over the stock buffers. Just throw them in for now. I listen to mainly rock and this is WONDERFUL. The mids are so smooth, the guitars don't dominate the sound, and the soundstage is great for rock. Not too wide, but just enough to make it sound amazing.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bozz_Keren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_does it make MS1 warmer, do u change the opamp? cause i'm searching for warm signature_

 

Yes it indeed does. I have dropped in the LM4562 buffers and the OP275. I love a warm liquidy sound and this indeed does have that warm liquidy sound that I love and it's coming out of my MS1! Mind you I haven't even changed the DAC opamp yet, so I have further improvements ahead.


----------



## Colscot

Can you guys recommend a supplier for the OP275 and LM4562's ? Also, do they drop straight in or do they need an adapter ? I should take mine apart and have a look.

 Colin


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I find my charging LED (green, orange, red) is much dimmer than the blue power-on lighthouse-bright LED on the front. Doesn't keep me up.


----------



## mrarroyo

The LM4562NA is an MDIP see: http://www.national.com/packaging/mkt/n08e.pdf

 The OP275 can also be had as a DIP: http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...1397516N_8.pdf


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Colscot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you guys recommend a supplier for the OP275 and LM4562's ? Also, do they drop straight in or do they need an adapter ? I should take mine apart and have a look.

 Colin_

 

Newark. LM4562's can be had as free samples.


----------



## Colscot

Thanks. What is the suffix I should be looking for ? LM4562NA ? OP275 GP or GPZ?

 Colin


----------



## souperman

OP275GPZ

http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM4562.html
 Get the NA, and you can order two free samples for about 9 dollars shipping.


----------



## souperman

whoops.


----------



## Yukon Trooper

Souper how would you say the iBasso is in terms of energy? Does it have lots of PRAT and is it in your face or laid back? What kind of rock do you listen to? How does it compare to the Corda MOVE for rock?


----------



## Dash

I would say, based off my D1 with stock op amps, it is a slightly forward more aggressive sound. I would not characterize it as harsh, especially after it has about 250 hours on it now. It is not laid back though. Im not saying it sounds like a Hornet, but its style is very remeniscent.

 2 cents.


----------



## MoAv

If one wants to burn in his D1, does pink noise be preferred to normal music ?
 Which part of the amp/DAC is being burned in ? the opamps ? the caps ?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoAv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If one wants to burn in his D1, does pink noise be preferred to normal music ?
 Which part of the amp/DAC is being burned in ? the opamps ? the caps ?_

 

I don't think what you play through it really matters. Unlike a headphone there is no driver. Pink noise for HP's is preferred because it really "exercises" the drivers.

 The point of burning in an amp is really just to put a signal through it, since the components have never had any signal or music played through them before.

 and the parts that are being burned in are... everything! caps, resistors, opamps, ext..


----------



## jamato8

All Black Gates and a Sanyo Oscon in the D1 except for one power cap on the opamp that will also be changed out. I also have some other new images on the first post of this thread.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Yukon Trooper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Souper how would you say the iBasso is in terms of energy? Does it have lots of PRAT and is it in your face or laid back? What kind of rock do you listen to? How does it compare to the Corda MOVE for rock?_

 

Well I have switched the opamps out to a OP275 so it is a very warm sound signature now which I really like. I would say it's very in your face and laid back when it needs to be. I'm not sure how to describe it. It's just awesome 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I like the D1 so much more out of the USB of my laptop than the MOVE. I listen to classic rock, metal without the screaming, indie rock, alternative, pretty much anything with real vocals 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pink noise for HP's is preferred because it really "exercises" the drivers._

 

Why is pink noise better than white noise? White noise is easier to generate, isn't it?


----------



## jamato8

Pink noise is the entire spectrum. It can also overload a system and the volume should not be turned too high for drivers.


----------



## jamato8

I have now replaced the power supply cap for the opamp in the amp section of the D1 with three 47uf HiQ Black Gates. I would like to use more capacitance but these BG's are very fast and I have them in Super E configuration, adds up to almost no inductance, near zero esr and about the best capacitors in the world for this application (I will use larger when I get them what is in there is a 100uf). Since this is the supply for the main opamp of the amp section it is very important for performance in all areas.


----------



## nc8000

Sounds like you and hiflight should get together with the iBasso people and have them produce a mark 2 version at a higher price as there seems to be a great potential in the basic design.


----------



## Yukon Trooper

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would say, based off my D1 with stock op amps, it is a slightly forward more aggressive sound. I would not characterize it as harsh, especially after it has about 250 hours on it now. It is not laid back though. Im not saying it sounds like a Hornet, but its style is very remeniscent.

 2 cents._

 

Hornet vs iBasso for rock... which would you consider better?

 Also, how would the DAC on the iBasso compare to a modded X-Fi with LM4562 op amps and Black Gate filter capacitor upgrade? And how would the DAC compare to plugging in a Oppo 970HD straight into a standalone amp?


----------



## trickywombat

I just put in he LM4562 (2) buffers with the OPA2111 opamp. Well actually, I did it a couple hours ago, but couldn't stop listening to it. It sounds like a different amp.

 The iPod -> ALO LOD -> D1 sounds much better. The iPod finally has a puncy bass with the flat EQ.

 Definitely worth the 5 minutes it takes to do it. Took longer to order online from two sites - the OPA2111 from Newark and LM4562 from Digi-Key, than it took to place them.

 I also noticed the hiss with my Livewires is gone, though there's still a hum when the AC adaptor is connected.

 Thanks, guys, for the recommendations.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nc8000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds like you and hiflight should get together with the iBasso people and have them produce a mark 2 version at a higher price as there seems to be a great potential in the basic design._

 

iBasso people are aware of Head Fi and the posts on the D1. I know because when I emailed them about it they replied and told me they are aware of what has been done here. Whether they come out w/ a new version or not is up to them.


----------



## ajsaxin

was going through their website ,it said the weight of the d1 is 800gms ,it did surprise me as if that true i would no way consider it a portable option.


----------



## Dash

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Yukon Trooper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hornet vs iBasso for rock... which would you consider better?

 Also, how would the DAC on the iBasso compare to a modded X-Fi with LM4562 op amps and Black Gate filter capacitor upgrade? And how would the DAC compare to plugging in a Oppo 970HD straight into a standalone amp?_

 

Apples and Oranges my friend. The D1 is a great amp/source solution. If you are going to utilize the DAC of the D1 then I think its a formidable one two punch. If you are going to utilize an exclusive portable solution with analog out...then I vote Hornet. The Hornet is a great "portable" amp. I find the D1 more in the transportable category amp wise. The DAC rivals my $300-500 dedicated CDPs.


----------



## recephasan

I've just changed the buffers to 2x 2132. The DAC opamp is also 2132, the 
 Amp opamp is the 8616, the one originally in the DAC section.

 Sibilance is what bothers me most. It is gone, the bass is punchier, there is better silence between notes. 

 Getting better..

 H120 -> iBasso (optical) -> E500


----------



## Schalldampfer

I wonder how the D1 stacks up against the upcoming Pico.


----------



## roberhofer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *roberhofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am having similar problems. Plus I can replicate this on two laptops. 
 One is a Asus V2JE. Pretty new, Vista. When connecting the IBasso via USB everything works initially great. However as soon as I do something that uses graphics (scrolling, switching windows) I get crackling noises. So I connected the IBasso via the Docking Station to see whether this seperates this somewhat. In this case when I have interactions that taxes the graphics subsystem I get dropouts (just as DennyL mentioned) and have to stop the media player (I tried several) and start the song again for IBasso to sync again. 

 Trying to eliminate the problem I connected the IBasso to a older IBM T22 laptop via USB. It has a fresh install of Windows XP. It connected, Windows detected the IBasso as a USB sound device and played great - till something used the CPU and then the same problem: crackling noises. 

 This is REALLY annoying: I bought this primarily to get good sound out of my laptop since I spend a lot of time listening to music in this way. And the experience is now anything but better. So till this is solved I am using the Laptop headphone jacks and the IBasso D1 is dormant. 

 Anyone else who has similar issues? Or is USB Audio simply unreliable? I eliminated Vista (which has a new Sound driver architecture) since the same is true on my T22 Windows XP laptop. Next step is to use SPDIF, however I first need the right cable...._

 

Thanks for everyone who replied to this post. I finally got (optical) SPDIF cables - took a while. And it resolved the USB sound problems that I experienced. So yes - it's either with Windows or the particular Laptop. I tried as well a powered USB hub and it didn't resolve the issue. 

 So: SPDIF it is. And I am VERY happy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, works great, sounds great.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ajsaxin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_was going through their website ,it said the weight of the d1 is 800gms ,it did surprise me as if that true i would no way consider it a portable option._

 

That's just the shipping weight of the entire package. Scroll up the page to the specifications and you'll see that the D1 itself weighs *320gms*.


----------



## viggen

Hi,

 I am currently using a Sony D303 line out into Greatech Muvac integrated to a pair of Reynaud Twins. I want to know whether I will benefit by using the D1 as a dac/pre, PCDP->D1->Amp?

 Has anyone compared how the D303 sounds directly to can versus how it sounds via the D1 either using analog inputs or optical/usb?

 Thanks,


----------



## jamato8

The D303 has one of the better sounding internal amps of the Sony players. It wasn't long after that, that they went down hill compared to a good external amp. The 303 has good drive and bass response but it still isn't as good as the better current offerings in portable amps. The dac section of the D1 will be better than the Sony so all around you should, this is just my opinion but I do have the 303, notice an improvement in sound quality when using the optical out of the 303.


----------



## zer010gic

Well I can also testify that the OPA2111 with the AD8397 (buffers) sound amazing. It sounds like a new amp and has alot more punch.


----------



## iggee85

Anyone know what the duty is (if any) for shipping to Canada?


----------



## azncookiecutter

Too big of a thread to look for an answer, so I'll just shout out here. Would it be possible to bypass the amp section of the D1 and run the unit as a DAC with a line-out output?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *azncookiecutter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Too big of a thread to look for an answer, so I'll just shout out here. Would it be possible to bypass the amp section of the D1 and run the unit as a DAC with a line-out output?_

 

Of course. Do you not see the AUX IN/OUT right next to the headphone jack 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. It functions as both analog input or output straight out of the DAC.


----------



## azncookiecutter

Ah, okay, that sounds good. Saw the AUX, must have missed the OUT beside it.


----------



## jamato8

Right now I am using the Xin Reference 12,000uf version with the D1 and enjoying a different sound from the unit. For someone like myself that likes to modify, move things around and lacking much room right now, the D1 leaves little to be desired with regards to modifying by swapping out chips, using just the dac or amp, coax digital, optical digital or usb. This is like a piece of test equipment and I couldn't be much happier. Well maybe if it was designed like a fine Italian amp, 1/3 smaller, had a matt black finish or available in red and . . . .


----------



## StevieDvd

Next we need the Ibasso D1-balanced version
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and livewire to add balanced iem's to their options too.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_red_

 

Yes, definitely red. Candy apple then clear coat and flame decals.


----------



## viggen

If indeed the D1 improves on the sound of the D303, then the D1 would be quite the world beater. Most recently, I settled with using the D303 as my main source after using NEC CDROM-Nixon Dackit w/ PSU for 3 years. 

 The D1 would also be very convenient for me in that I hope to acquire a tablet laptop down the road to use specifically as music jukebox and to have it connected to the D1 via USB. (I can certainly live without the D303's limited tracking ability) Ofcourse, if this works out sonically, this would be a good "blue collar" alternative to Apogee and Wavelength offerings.

 Thanks for the write ups. The D1 is encouraging.


----------



## jamato8

I am listening on and off to both Right now. The D303 is surprisingly good! But, and you shouldn't start a sentence with but, the D1 is a little bit better. It is a little cleaner sound, a little more open and a bit better dynamics but the D303 is truly excellent right out of the headphone section, imo.


----------



## viggen

Do you ever use the D303's line out? I think the line out is much better than the headphone out in that the mid to lower mid range is much smoother. I experience this both when listening to speakers and Senn HD450s (I think that's the model # it's quite old).


----------



## jamato8

Normally I use the optical out but what surprises me is how good the headphone out is and that was more the thrust of my observation. I can imagine that the line out would be better. I will give it a try with the D1 and the Xin Reference.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

What's the lowest voltage caps I can use?

 is 6.3v too low?

 I also found out, not surprisingly, that cap rolling voids the warranty. So I'll probably wait ~400 hours before I hard mod it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I guess one of these days I'll have to compare the "source optical out into D1" vs the headphone out and line out of my vintage Sony D-5 and Sony D-25s, both of which have excellent sound quality compared to the newer cd players they've put out. 

 My first D-5 was in 1985 I think, the first day they came out I had one. I had been bringing a home audio sized Technics CD player to the study cubicles at med school to study for exams when the D-5 arrived (so I think it was around March?). For a full week before they came out, I was at the store checking to see if they were in yet. At the time the Technics was about $800, and the D-5 for $500 sounded every bit as good.

 They don't make 'em like they used to.


----------



## Schalldampfer

So, hold on... how do I get on this list of potential buyers?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, hold on... how do I get on this list of potential buyers?_

 

Order one, paying by paypal, then you are on the list


----------



## HiFlight

Very good news, my ADA4841-2 and AD8656 opamps will arrive ahead of schedule next week!

 IMHO, the wait will be worth it.


----------



## Colscot

Is there a better USB cable out there than the one iBasso supplies stock? Reason I am asking is that when using my iPod via ALO cryo dock into the line in port of the D1, therefore using the amp section only, it sounds waaayy better than using my computer into the DAC section via USB.

 I am thinking it might be the quality of the cable, as the reports I have read elsewhere on this forum seem to suggest that the DAC section is far better than just using it as an amp.

 Colin

 Moderator - you can remove this post.


----------



## Colscot

Is there a better USB cable out there than the one iBasso supplies with the D1? Reason I am asking is that if I use the D1 as an amp via the line in port it sounds waaayyy better than feeding it with my computer via the USB port and therefore using it as a DAC.

 From the reports I have read elsewhere here it seems it should be the other way around. I am feeding the analog port with my iPod via an ALO cryo dock, so I am thinking the USB cable is not good enough.

 Colin


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

HiFlight,

 Nice - that means I'll have my stuff the week after 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Don't forget to PM me if I didn't send you enough money (OPA2111, solder 8066 and 8397 to browndogs, AD8656 for DAC, and I forget what else). 

 I do have some LM4562 coming next week too.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Order one, paying by paypal, then you are on the list 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They just told me that they will inform me when it is back in stock.


----------



## Dexdexter

Since I received my D1, I've begun maintaining a thread listing PCDPs, DAPs, etc. that feature digital outputs over in the Portable Forum:

Portable Sources w/Digital Output Listing

 I think it's been going pretty well, and the list continues to grow, so today I decided to find out if other members here feel that it would be worthwhile to make the thread a Sticky:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dear HeadFellows,

 Does anyone else think this thread deserves consideration as a Sticky?

 As far as I can determine, there's *no other comparable, comprehensive listing of Portable Sources with Digital Output Capability readily available anywhere else on the internet.*

 And I think it would be a shame for the list to slip into oblivion here because news of such sources is kinda slow-going...

 I sent a PM to moderator *jpelg* two weeks ago requesting Stickydom for this thread and James replied that he needed to gather a consensus of the other mods before changing the status of the thread.

 So, if like me, you'd like to see this list handily perched atop the Portable Forum for easy reference, don't be shy and shoot a PM to your favorite Mods today! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So any help from other members interested in portable sources that take advantage of portable DACs like the D1 would be much appreciated!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Since I received my D1, I've begun maintaining a thread listing PCDPs, DAPs, etc. that feature digital outputs over in the Portable Forum:

Portable Sources w/Digital Output Listing

 I think it's been going pretty well, and the list continues to grow, so today I decided to find out if other members here feel that it would be worthwhile to make the thread a Sticky:



 So any help from other members interested in portable sources that take advantage of portable DACs like the D1 would be much appreciated! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Yeah, it is helpful thread, but now you can turn the DAP/CP names into links to more information (or into links to buying the sources) as well.

 In my case, I have the D-EJ2000, D-NE20 cd players, and the iRiver H120 and H140 DAP, and the Macbook 2ghz core 2 duo as my digital sources.

 I had to buy the cd players from head-fi members in Denmark and the UK. The iRiver's came from ebay. None of them are currently sold in the US. Looking at your list, many people will not know whether to look for them in a store, ebay, head-fi, or garage sales...

 Despite that, Thanks for all the work making the list!


----------



## Schalldampfer

Has anyone heard from them about their possible restock date?


----------



## dagobah

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone heard from them about their possible restock date?_

 

I got a message yesterday stating that they should be shipping again in about a week.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dagobah* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got a message yesterday stating that they should be shipping again in about a week._

 

Whoo! That is very good news! Thanks.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very good news, my ADA4841-2 and AD8656 opamps will arrive ahead of schedule next week!

 IMHO, the wait will be worth it._

 

Do not forget me on the AD8397, ADA4841-2, and AD8066.


----------



## pianomav

Hey guys, i'm planning on getting this amp.. any suggestion on which chip to get for the replacement and place I could purchase them? Thanks...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Search the thread for the words "opamp" "swap" and/or "roll"


----------



## unbiased

I am really interested in this DAC/amp combo unit and think it sure offers alot for its price range. It seems to be garnering much praise. Has anyone had the opportunity to compare it with the Benchmark DAC-1 or the Grace M902 DAC/amps and can comment on it?
 I am torn between going cheap for this iBasso D1 or going all out for the likes of a Benchmark DAC-1 or Grace M902.


----------



## jamato8

I have compared it to my Monica II dac, which has been compared to dacs costing a few thousand and the Monica II was preferred. For me I have a slight preference for Monica but after changing out the opamp and some caps I find the D1 dac to be excellent and a different presentation that is no less engaging. While this does not answer your question I am confident, especially at the price, the D1 dac is a top performer and well worth the small investment both in the D1 and a few opamp changes.

 I do think that if you put both the D1 and the Monica II dac the D1 would measure better.


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have compared it to my Monica II dac, which has been compared to dacs costing a few thousand and the Monica II was preferred. For me I have a slight preference for Monica but after changing out the opamp and some caps I find the D1 dac to be excellent and a different presentation that is no less engaging. While this does not answer your question I am confident, especially at the price, the D1 dac is a top performer and well worth the small investment both in the D1 and a few opamp changes.

 I do think that if you put both the D1 and the Monica II dac the D1 would measure better._

 

Hmmm, that's interesting indeed. I think that for the price of the D1, one cannot go wrong. I was originally going to spend more for a DAC/amp combo unit and was considering the Grace M902... but then I got worried about when the time comes and they start offering DACs that decode even more bit streams and speeds that the current generation of DACS cannot decode. I would feel regret for spending so much for a 24/192 DAC and then they come out with the next step beyond to decode more formats. I am willing to spend the $229 for the D1 DAC/amp though and when it comes time that they start releasing new generation DAC's I won't feel as bad.


----------



## Nine'

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *unbiased* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, that's interesting indeed. I think that for the price of the D1, one cannot go wrong. I was originally going to spend more for a DAC/amp combo unit and was considering the Grace M902... but then I got worried about when the time comes and they start offering DACs that decode even more bit streams and speeds that the current generation of DACS cannot decode. I would feel regret for spending so much for a 24/192 DAC and then they come out with the next step beyond to decode more formats. I am willing to spend the $229 for the D1 DAC/amp though and when it comes time that they start releasing new generation DAC's I won't feel as bad. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Something to consider is you don't need to oversample to get great quality. The monica being talked about is actually a killer non-oversampling dac. Same goes for the Alien DAC floating around here. Unless most of your collection is in SACDs or DVDA you won't really be behind the times, even DVDA only goes up to 24/196khz--which the D1 is still able to handle.

 And I agree, the D1 looks great for the price. The opamp rolling won me over.

 If someone could clarify, what are the 4 opamps used for exactly? Do both the dac and amplifier have an opamp for amplification, and then another one each as a buffer?


----------



## Schalldampfer

Is the battery easy to take out? I would like to, as I probably will have it connected to my laptop.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the battery easy to take out? I would like to, as I probably will have it connected to my laptop._

 

No, and besides the laptop will not charge the unit. When using the supplied converter the battery will be out of the circuit once charged.


----------



## souperman

Do you guys think running the D1 from the optical from the M-Audio transit would be better than running it through USB?


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *unbiased* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Has anyone had the opportunity to compare it with the Benchmark DAC-1 or the Grace M902 DAC/amps and can comment on it?
 I am torn between going cheap for this iBasso D1 or going all out for the likes of a Benchmark DAC-1 or Grace M902._

 

I have a Lavry DA-10 that I use sometimes with headphones. I bought the D1 because I wanted something that I could use at my office and wanted USB support. I think that the stock D1 is not quite as refined as the Lavry, but it is a very good piece considering that it is 1/4 the cost. The Lavry is a very revealing transparent unit - some people may find it to be too much so for their taste. Analytical is the criticism you sometimes see.

 The D1 is good enough so that I bought a second unit to use for headphone listening at home instead of the Lavry which is in an inconvenient location in my home for headphone use. As soon as it arrives I will also be using it to try out various mods that have been discussed here. It is quite possible that with these mods I may be able to achieve a sound I prefer to the Lavry.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a Lavry DA-10 that I use sometimes with headphones. I bought the D1 because I wanted something that I could use at my office and wanted USB support. I think that the stock D1 is not quite as refined as the Lavry, but it is a very good piece considering that it is 1/4 the cost. The Lavry is a very revealing transparent unit - some people may find it to be too much so for their taste.

 Good enough so that I bought a second unit to use for headphone listening instead of the Lavry which is in an inconvenient location for frequent use for me._

 

You should seriously consider getting the 4 op-amps to upgrade the D1. It will surprise you.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you guys think running the D1 from the optical from the M-Audio transit would be better than running it through USB?_

 

Anyone available to answer this question?


----------



## souperman

oops. sorry.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Has anyone tried staking buffers?

 What good dose that do?


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You should seriously consider getting the 4 op-amps to upgrade the D1. It will surprise you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I know, I know. I have the parts. I am waiting for my 2nd D1 to arrive at which time I'll swap it in for the one at work and start experimenting. I am going to have a lot of fun with this.

 I modded Dynaco kits before most of you guys were born. The D1 is bringing back a lot of great memories. Those Dynaco designs are classics. The D1 is certainly heading in that direction.

 What we didn't have back then were forums like this to share our experiences and knowledge.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Anyone know what opamps/buffers works best for a nice warm, dynamic sound?

 I have LM4562, opa2111 and ad8397. 

 Just want to know what I should buy for the warmer sound sig.


----------



## elnino

I saw this from HiFlight:

 OPA2111 Largest soundstage
 OP275 Warm and dynamic
 AD746 (dual version of AD744) Presence and detail
 OPA2134 (old standby) Warm & good tonal balance


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elnino* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I saw this from HiFlight:

 OPA2111 Largest soundstage
 OP275 Warm and dynamic
 AD746 (dual version of AD744) Presence and detail
 OPA2134 (old standby) Warm & good tonal balance_

 

I might add that the ADA4841-2 is a nice blend of the 4 mentioned above. 

 One cannot make a mistake with any of them, IMO, although certainly different individuals will prefer the sound of one over the others.


----------



## mrarroyo

xnothingpoetic, it is up to your likes/dislikes. In the buffers location I have listened to the stock NE5532, the AD8397, and the LM4562. IMO the LM4562 sounded best.

 In the Amp Section I have listend to the stock AD823, the LT6241HV, the OPA275, and the OPA2111. I liked the 2 and 4th best.

 On the DAC section I believe we are all in agreement to take out the AD8616 and use the AD8656. Good luck.


----------



## souperman

I don't really know how optical works, but sorry to ask this again. Would running the D1 from optical out of a M-Audio transit be better than straight through the D1?


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_xnothingpoetic, it is up to your likes/dislikes. In the buffers location I have listened to the stock NE5532, the AD8397, and the LM4562. IMO the LM4562 sounded best.

 In the Amp Section I have listend to the stock AD823, the LT6241HV, the OPA275, and the OPA2111. I liked the 2 and 4th best.

 On the DAC section I believe we are all in agreement to take out the AD8616 and use the AD8656. Good luck._

 

I just placed an order for my D1 and have also ordered a few of the op-amps you recommended here. LM4562NA and a couple those expensive suckers the OPA2111. I also ordered a couple of AD8656 since I saw them mentioned in post #1 addendums... I also ordered a handful of various BrownDog ic adapters in preparation for what's coming... op amp rollings and mods! Don't get me started! I have no time for this! House falling apart, needs maintenance, lawn needs mowing... and I am rolling op amps listening to music?!!!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *unbiased* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just placed an order for my D1 and have also ordered a few of the op-amps you recommended here. LM4562NA and a couple those expensive suckers the OPA2111. I also ordered a couple of AD8656 since I saw them mentioned in post #1 addendums... I also ordered a handful of various BrownDog ic adapters in preparation for what's coming... op amp rollings and mods! Don't get me started! I have no time for this! House falling apart, needs maintenance, lawn needs mowing... and I am rolling op amps listening to music?!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

A bad day of opamp rolling is better than a good day working


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A bad day of opamp rolling is better than a good day working
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






 Now, where the heck can I buy some of those OPA627 op amps these days?
 Everywhere is always out of stock till the end of time on these. I need at least 4 of them for a Pioneer VSX 49Txi DAC mod project. And also wondering if any lucky few that have this chip have tried to use it in the iBasso D1 circuit? How does it sound? Or is it too voltage hungry to be used in the iBasso D1?


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, and besides the laptop will not charge the unit. When using the supplied converter the battery will be out of the circuit once charged._

 

So you're saying that it's smart enough to cut off the battery once it's fully charged?


----------



## jamato8

Once the battery is charged it switches to the external power supply and the battery is trickle charged. The supply for the D1 then comes from the wallwart, which seems to work very well. I also have an external battery supply for the D1, which allows it when not hooked up to the wall, to run a very long time but I don't notice any real change in sound quality from using the wall wart or using the external battery.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Once the battery is charged it switches to the external power supply and the battery is trickle charged. The supply for the D1 then comes from the wallwart, which seems to work very well. I also have an external battery supply for the D1, which allows it when not hooked up to the wall, to run a very long time but I don't notice any real change in sound quality from using the wall wart or using the external battery._

 

That makes this all so much more appealing. Thank you.


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DennyL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow! I emailed iBasso about this problem yesterday. Today I have this reply:-

Sorry about that. Your D1 should be faulty. We are going to send you a replacement tomorrow. The blue LED should be lit when the D1 is turned on. 

 Also, we will pay for the return shipping to bring the defective unit back to us. please email me when you receive the replacement.

 We appologize for the troubles.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio
_

 

I have now received my replacement iBasso D1, and I'm waiting for iBasso to tell me what they want me to do with the first one. I'm in the UK and interestingly both came to me without either being caught for import duty 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## pearljam5000

Did anyone compare the D1 to 0404 USB by any chance?


----------



## Colscot

I'd like to try swapping op-amps. Are they all drop in replacements or do they require to be soldered ?

 Colin


----------



## Amati

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Colscot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to try swapping op-amps. Are they all drop in replacements or do they require to be soldered ?

 Colin_

 


 Among the most popular op-amps, OPA2111 for LR and LM4562 for buffers are 'drop in'. The rest, including the DAC op-amp, require soldering on to one of these:


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Colscot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to try swapping op-amps. Are they all drop in replacements or do they require to be soldered ?

 Colin_

 

Most of them are SOIC configuration and need to be soldered onto adapters. A few are DIP configuration that can be plugged directly into the D1 socket without the need for adapters.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Colscot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to try swapping op-amps. Are they all drop in replacements or do they require to be soldered ?

 Colin_

 

A quick search will show you that they are DIP. SOIC opamps need to be soldered onto adapters before dropping into the DIP sockets. Search is your friend.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *unbiased* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_






 Now, where the heck can I buy some of those OPA627 op amps these days?
 Everywhere is always out of stock till the end of time on these. I need at least 4 of them for a Pioneer VSX 49Txi DAC mod project. And also wondering if any lucky few that have this chip have tried to use it in the iBasso D1 circuit? How does it sound? Or is it too voltage hungry to be used in the iBasso D1?_

 

Check for a PM!

 BTW, the OPA2107 sounds quite similar to the OPA627.


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Check for a PM!

 BTW, the OPA2107 sounds quite similar to the OPA627._

 

Got it! Returned PM.

 I will order some OPA2107's too to try out.
 Thanks!


----------



## Sieg9198

Just now when I saw the view number of this thread, it was 66,666.....


----------



## Nine'

Can anyone tell me what the voltage is on the opamp power rails? (battery and off the wall wart, if there's a difference) I'm trying to decide if I want to order duplicates of some of the opamps I have in my GV5S.


----------



## Nine'

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't really know how optical works, but sorry to ask this again. Would running the D1 from optical out of a M-Audio transit be better than straight through the D1?_

 

Depends on whether the D1 draws power from USB, and if so how well filtered it is. When I used my Alien DAC (usb-powered) with a cheapo usb hub, it was much noiser than straight out of my laptop. I'd lean towards optical out being better just because noise was a serious issue using usb. Though if it doesn't use usb for power it's probably a moot issue.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nine'* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Depends on whether the D1 draws power from USB, and if so how well filtered it is. When I used my Alien DAC (usb-powered) with a cheapo usb hub, it was much noiser than straight out of my laptop. I'd lean towards optical out being better just because noise was a serious issue using usb. Though if it doesn't use usb for power it's probably a moot issue._

 

It doesn't draw power from the USB hub. I guess maybe I shouldn't spend money for the transit just for optical. Anybody else have any ideas on this topic? Should I run the D1 through an M-Audio transit for better sound?


----------



## kiwirugby

Sorry if I am detouring the conversation, but I just received my D1 today (actually the bride received it last Monday when I was out of town and misplaced it! I found it this morning in with the fine china!!!! Thoughts???!!!). I charged up the batteries and listened to Rachmaninov's 2nd piano concerto from a D-EJ2000 with a SysConcept mini-toslink, and, well....my goodness....I must say I was taken with the clarity, especially how the high tones of the piano ring (versus sound a little fuzzy and tinney). I am so used to my iMod G4 --> SuperMacro, and a quick listen of the exactly the same thing (lossless) on the iMod, the difference in clarity of the D1 set up is so clear. I am not sure about the bass. It sounded a little muddy, but I was very pleasantly surpised.

 Given how much excellent talk there is about improving this amp with opamp rolling, I am curious to know how much one could improve on this.

 More later.....now you can go back to the technical stuff.....!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nine'* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone tell me what the voltage is on the opamp power rails? (battery and off the wall wart, if there's a difference) I'm trying to decide if I want to order duplicates of some of the opamps I have in my GV5S._

 

It is a bit less than 6vdc.


----------



## jamato8

Opamp at 4.9 and the buffers at 9 volts on pin 8.


----------



## BadEmu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *roberhofer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am having similar problems. Plus I can replicate this on two laptops. 
 One is a Asus V2JE. Pretty new, Vista. When connecting the IBasso via USB everything works initially great. However as soon as I do something that uses graphics (scrolling, switching windows) I get crackling noises. So I connected the IBasso via the Docking Station to see whether this seperates this somewhat. In this case when I have interactions that taxes the graphics subsystem I get dropouts (just as DennyL mentioned) and have to stop the media player (I tried several) and start the song again for IBasso to sync again. 

 Trying to eliminate the problem I connected the IBasso to a older IBM T22 laptop via USB. It has a fresh install of Windows XP. It connected, Windows detected the IBasso as a USB sound device and played great - till something used the CPU and then the same problem: crackling noises. 

 This is REALLY annoying: I bought this primarily to get good sound out of my laptop since I spend a lot of time listening to music in this way. And the experience is now anything but better. So till this is solved I am using the Laptop headphone jacks and the IBasso D1 is dormant. 

 Anyone else who has similar issues? Or is USB Audio simply unreliable? I eliminated Vista (which has a new Sound driver architecture) since the same is true on my T22 Windows XP laptop. Next step is to use SPDIF, however I first need the right cable...._

 

I've tried to create this problem on either of my computers, and cannot no matter what I do. One is a desktop running Win 2000 Pro, using Foobar with kernel streaming, and the other is a laptop with XP Pro, Foobar default config. I've tried encoding flac to ogg, which kicks cpu to 100%, and nothing, not even a gap in the music. I've even tried running a movie on the laptop, and it can play the music and the movie simultaneously. Really not sure what the problem is, but it doesn't seem to be either the OS or usb.

 Desktop:

 Emachines 3080 with Athlon XP3000+ 1gig
 Nvidia fx-5700 256mb

 Laptop: Inspiron 5100 P4 2.6 Ghz 256mb
 ati 7500 16mb

 both the desktop and the laptop are playing music from the same usb hard drive, a 120gb eStar portable.

 I realize you've worked around this by going to spdif, but perhaps you could post more specs on the computers that had the problem, and the problem could be nailed down and solved. thanks!


----------



## Skylab

I have had problems with USB DACs (Meier and iBasso) when Skype is loaded on my computer. Skype does some off things to audio drivers. Something to look into if you have been using Skype.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *BadEmu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've tried to create this problem on either of my computers, and cannot no matter what I do. One is a desktop running Win 2000 Pro, using Foobar with kernel streaming, and the other is a laptop with XP Pro, Foobar default config. I've tried encoding flac to ogg, which kicks cpu to 100%, and nothing, not even a gap in the music. I've even tried running a movie on the laptop, and it can play the music and the movie simultaneously. Really not sure what the problem is, but it doesn't seem to be either the OS or usb.

 Desktop:

 Emachines 3080 with Athlon XP3000+
 Nvidia fx-5700 256mb

 Laptop: Inspiron 5100 2.6 Ghz
 ati 7500 16mb

 both the desktop and the laptop are playing music from the same usb hard drive, a 120gb eStar portable.

 I realize you've worked around this by going to spdif, but perhaps you could post more specs on the computers that had the problem, and the problem could be nailed down and solved. thanks!_

 

roberhofer's problem has nothing to do with the D1. It's just the way the CPU is handling things. I get this problem sometimes as well with any of my sound cards. Not just my D1.


----------



## luidge

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_roberhofer's problem has nothing to do with the D1. It's just the way the CPU is handling things. I get this problem sometimes as well with any of my sound cards. Not just my D1._

 

Same here


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kiwirugby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry if I am detouring the conversation, but I just received my D1 today (actually the bride received it last Monday when I was out of town and misplaced it! I found it this morning in with the fine china!!!! Thoughts???!!!). I charged up the batteries and listened to Rachmaninov's 2nd piano concerto from a D-EJ2000 with a SysConcept mini-toslink, and, well....my goodness....I must say I was taken with the clarity, especially how the high tones of the piano ring (versus sound a little fuzzy and tinney). I am so used to my iMod G4 --> SuperMacro, and a quick listen of the exactly the same thing (lossless) on the iMod, the difference in clarity of the D1 set up is so clear. I am not sure about the bass. It sounded a little muddy, but I was very pleasantly surpised.

 Given how much excellent talk there is about improving this amp with opamp rolling, I am curious to know how much one could improve on this.

 More later.....now you can go back to the technical stuff.....!_

 

You hear the same clarity that I slobbered about in my review on page 58, and you only just got it today! Wait until the amp burns in after 300-400 hours of use and you will BE EVEN MORE AMAZED. ALSO, the bass WILL clean up with time.

 My opamps and buffers will be here next week, and from what everyone
 says, the jump in sound quality with different opamps will match or exceed the jump in improvement from burning it in!

 Oh, wait, my LM4562's are here now - hmmmm, can you say "new buffers"? All I need is more energy and to feel better, so I can tackle the project. My lung disability has kept me from work for almost 5 weeks now.


----------



## jamato8

Listening to KD Lang, Shadowland. Whoa, extra good. Bass, great staging , great fun. 

 I hope your lungs gets better. I am also a critical care nurse and have taken care of plenty of people with pulmonary problems. My ex wife was in ICU for 3 months with it and my brother lost his wife to COPD.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Fibrosing mediastinitis, left pulmonary vein obstruction, pulmonary hypertension on the left side, ectatic bronchial arteries, hypoxia, erosion of granulomas through the bronchial walls, bronchiectasis, asthma and random pulmonary hemorrages. 

 It certainly wont get better, just pray it don't get worse...


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You hear the same clarity that I slobbered about in my review on page 58, and you only just got it today! Wait until the amp burns in after 300-400 hours of use and you will BE EVEN MORE AMAZED. ALSO, the bass WILL clean up with time.

 My opamps and buffers will be here next week, and from what everyone
 says, the jump in sound quality with different opamps will match or exceed the jump in improvement from burning it in!

 Oh, wait, my LM4562's are here now - hmmmm, can you say "new buffers"? All I need is more energy and to feel better, so I can tackle the project. My lung disability has kept me from work for almost 5 weeks now._

 

So sorry to hear about your lungs. I hope you recover quickly and fully.

 Sneaking another quick listen (Sibelius 4). I really wonder if this is not better than my expensive stereo system! Seriously! More intimate and so bloody clear and transparent.

 I am sure other opamps make a difference, but out of the box, I am so impressed. I don't know how to roll opamps, so this configuration will be it for me. Oh, how I will suffer!

 Take care.

 p.s. There have been a number of posts with problems with LEDs and now batteries. I hope mine stears clear of these!


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fibrosing mediastinitis, left pulmonary vein obstruction, pulmonary hypertension on the left side, ectatic bronchial arteries, hypoxia, erosion of granulomas through the bronchial walls, bronchiectasis, asthma and random pulmonary hemorrages. 

 It certainly wont get better, just pray it don't get worse..._

 

That sounds absolutely dreadful. I hope music helps. I wish you all the very best and we'll send you all good thoughts that it doesn't get worse.


----------



## splawren

So - has anyone else noticed that ibasso is putting a white "paste" or glue on the batteries AND THE OPAMPS? On the 8616 and 823, they've glued the adapter to the board and sockets using the paste. I don't see that in Jamato's pictures. Anyone else dealing with this in the opamp rolling ideas?

 I imagine this is a procedure to keep the unit in one piece while being transported; it probably also tells them if someone's been messing with their unit if they complain; or it keeps the modifications being widely broadcast on this site from being implemented. . . (cue music). 

 Anyway, suggestions on how to remove/deal?


----------



## jamato8

I have seen a few companies do this because the socketed items might be jarred out of place. My Little Dot Micro Tube amp had the tubes glued in place! You have to carefully pry them out but work away the glue first. Someone needs to email them about this. There intention was that people could roll opamps and mold the sound to their liking.

 Using my Tekkeon external battery and ahhhh, what a sound. Clean and ooopen. Great fun. Teflon sound, smooooth and clean and notes don't get stuck together. 

 You heard it here first. . . . Teflon sound. . . . . notes float free unencumbered. . .


----------



## HiFlight

That is not an adhesive glue. The opamps lift out quite easily, even with the white material. I lifted them out on Mrarroyo's D1 with a small screwdriver as easily as those in my D1 which had no potting material. I am guessing that it is used to dampen vibration or movement during shipping.


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *splawren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So - has anyone else noticed that ibasso is putting a white "paste" or glue on the batteries AND THE OPAMPS? On the 8616 and 823, they've glued the adapter to the board and sockets using the paste. I don't see that in Jamato's pictures. Anyone else dealing with this in the opamp rolling ideas?

 I imagine this is a procedure to keep the unit in one piece while being transported; it probably also tells them if someone's been messing with their unit if they complain; or it keeps the modifications being widely broadcast on this site from being implemented. . . (cue music). 

 Anyway, suggestions on how to remove/deal?_

 

I was thinking the same thoughts and agree with you. The glue serves a dual purpose. It keeps things tightly in place during transit and also through time and it also acts as an indicator to iBasso service that you have removed the opamps and/or battery if you should report that the unit is defective and request warranty service. But then why put socketed op amps in place? They surely know that head-fi'ers are going to roll op-amps. So maybe it is just to hold it in place and reduce vibrational loosening effects.


----------



## Capunk

I just done my first opamp rolling! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Today, OPA2111 KP arrived, and straightly I conduct operation within my D1. Result? Fantastic~ 

 Before I change the default opamp (AD823), I put it on for listening for about 1 hour, so I would expect the differences after I change it to OPA2111KP, and yes! it's improved~ 

 However, I still waiting for LM4562 arrived... so I could change the buffer as well... 

 But I have a few questions, 

 does OPA2111KP & LM4562 (x2) only improve analog input, headphone amp section? 

 Does it improve the DAC output? (Through USB/Optical) For instance USB -> D1 -> Headphone out ? 

 or do I need to change the DAC output opamp as well? AD8656?


----------



## DennyL

Does anyone know what effect the various op amps that can be rolled into the D1 have on its 20-hour battery life? Are there any that drain significantly more current?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just done my first opamp rolling! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Today, OPA2111 KP arrived, and straightly I conduct operation within my D1. Result? Fantastic~ 

 Before I change the default opamp (AD823), I put it on for listening for about 1 hour, so I would expect the differences after I change it to OPA2111KP, and yes! it's improved~ 

 However, I still waiting for LM4562 arrived... so I could change the buffer as well... 

 But I have a few questions, 

 does OPA2111KP & LM4562 (x2) only improve analog input, headphone amp section? 

 Does it improve the DAC output? (Through USB/Optical) For instance USB -> D1 -> Headphone out ? 

 or do I need to change the DAC output opamp as well? AD8656?_

 

You need to use the AD8656 to improve the DAC output opamp.


----------



## Strings

So far it's sounding great. But I've got a question for those that have it.

 With Foobar ASIO through the D1 to my Beyer DT880s... is it normal to need the volume knob at around the 3 o clock position?

 Just seems like a lot.


----------



## Monster_Omelette

It's probably like that since the DT 880s have a relatively high impedance (?); I can't wait till I get my 880s!


----------



## dw6928

I recently had 2 D1s on loan, one stock (brand new) and a second, opamp rolled (modded). While the stock D1 was an excellent amp ( I prefer the Move as an amp only) it could not stay in the same room with the modded D1, especially when
 the D1 is engaging its DAC via optical cable. It takes this amp to another level, so much so that I began to a/b with my desktop Heed and it pretty much held its own except in soundstage and 3 d layering. Quite an accomplishment for a pure portable. The modded D1 blows the Move out and an amp/dac combo. It is also better as a pure amp with an analog connection. It is warmer and truer than the Move; not by a lot but by enough to make mention. It was a real accomplishment by those that found these opamps to improve the D1. They deserve an enormous amount of credit and to all those who have a stock D1: something to seriously consider. It will upgrade your amp several leagues.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dw6928* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I recently had 2 D1s on loan, one stock (brand new) and a second, opamp rolled (modded). While the stock D1 was an excellent amp ( I prefer the Move as an amp only) it could not stay in the same room with the modded D1, especially when
 the D1 is engaging its DAC via optical cable. It takes this amp to another level, so much so that I began to a/b with my desktop Heed and it pretty much held its own except in soundstage and 3 d layering. Quite an accomplishment for a pure portable. The modded D1 blows the Move out and an amp/dac combo. It is also better as a pure amp with an analog connection. It is warmer and truer than the Move; not by a lot but by enough to make mention. It was a real accomplishment by those that found these opamps to improve the D1. They deserve an enormous amount of credit and to all those who have a stock D1: something to seriously consider. It will upgrade your amp several leagues._

 

Which opamps are you using? Just wondering.


----------



## jamato8

Try some Black Gate capacitors for the next level in all areas.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Strings* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So far it's sounding great. But I've got a question for those that have it.

 With Foobar ASIO through the D1 to my Beyer DT880s... is it normal to need the volume knob at around the 3 o clock position?

 Just seems like a lot._

 

Did you turn the volume up all the way in your OS?


----------



## dw6928

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which opamps are you using? Just wondering._

 

I will find out: this D1 belongs to another quite famous Head fi celeb.


----------



## sum1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need to use the AD8656 to improve the DAC output opamp._

 

If i use the ibasso D1 purely as a DAC/AMP combo so the only modding i can do to improve it is just to change it to AD8656? All the other mods will not do anything for me since they are for the analogue input right???


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If i use the ibasso D1 purely as a DAC/AMP combo so the only modding i can do to improve it is just to change it to AD8656? All the other mods will not do anything for me since they are for the analogue input right???_

 

If you use it purely as a DAC then just the AD8656 is all you need but if you use any of the amp functions then you need the other chips. The AD8656 feeds signal to the other chips.


 Corey


----------



## splawren

I know this has been sort-of asked, but how are people mouting the 8656 replacement for the 8616 feeding the DAC? The 4652s and 2111 are great b/c they're already DIP config, but the 8656 requires soldering onto either: 1) the adapter used by the ibasso or 2) a new adapater that I'd like to find/buy. I'd rather not desolder the 8616, so any suggestions for an 8-pin SOIC-to-DIP adapter (where to buy)? Or, better yet, anyone got a completed rig (8656+DIP adapter) that I could "buy"? I assume there is no 8656 DIP config?

 I tried the radio shack 8-pin adapater before I realized its not a soic to dip adapter. . . (I think I'm using the terms right, but please correct me if wrong.)

 BTW - I'm slowly replacing one thing at a time after having had about 150 hours break-in. So far, just did the 823 to 2111 swap and the soundstage change is quite astonishing. Next, I'll do the buffers in the 5532 to 4562 swap. . . then, I'll do the 8616 to 8656 swap once I figure the above question out. 

 Great advice you guys, well done!


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *splawren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know this has been sort-of asked, but how are people mouting the 8656 replacement for the 8616 feeding the DAC? The 4652s and 2111 are great b/c they're already DIP config, but the 8656 requires soldering onto either: 1) the adapter used by the ibasso or 2) a new adapater that I'd like to find/buy. I'd rather not desolder the 8616, so any suggestions for an 8-pin SOIC-to-DIP adapter (where to buy)? Or, better yet, anyone got a completed rig (8656+DIP adapter) that I could "buy"? I assume there is no 8656 DIP config?

 I tried the radio shack 8-pin adapater before I realized its not a soic to dip adapter. . . (I think I'm using the terms right, but please correct me if wrong.)

 BTW - I'm slowly replacing one thing at a time after having had about 150 hours break-in. So far, just did the 823 to 2111 swap and the soundstage change is quite astonishing. Next, I'll do the buffers in the 5532 to 4562 swap. . . then, I'll do the 8616 to 8656 swap once I figure the above question out. 

 Great advice you guys, well done!_

 

Search on google for Brown dog adapters. That's what everyone basically uses.


----------



## sum1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you use it purely as a DAC then just the AD8656 is all you need but if you use any of the amp functions then you need the other chips. The AD8656 feeds signal to the other chips.


 Corey_

 

Ah i got it now, Thanks.
 I am going to be using it as a DAC/AMP combo so i guess i can do the other MOD as well. I will probably do the AD8656 last since it looks like its the hardest one of them all.


----------



## itsborken

Splawren, I think this is what you want:

SOIC to DIP adapter

 Then you solder on the SOIC chip to the adapter. A flux pen and some non-conducting thermal grease help too.


----------



## mrarroyo

Code:


```
[left]...8-pin SOIC-to-DIP adapter (where to buy)? ...[/left]
```

You can find Brown Dog Adapters at: http://cimarrontechnology.com/

  Code:


```
[left]Try some Black Gate capacitors for the next level in all areas.[/left]
```

I hate you and HiFlight who has installed black gates on his D1. Now I have to "sweet talk" Ron (HiFlight) into modding mine. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Code:


```
[left]I will find out ...[/left]
```

AD8656 in the DAC (replacing the AD8616)

 LM4562 (2) as a buffer in the Amp (replacing the NE5532)
 OPA2111 in the Amp (replacing the AD823)

  Code:


```
[left]I recently had 2 D1s on loan, one stock (brand new) and a second, opamp rolled (modded). While the stock D1 was an excellent amp ( I prefer the Move as an amp only) it could not stay in the same room with the modded D1, especially when the D1 is engaging its DAC via optical cable. It takes this amp to another level, so much so that I began to a/b with my desktop Heed and it pretty much held its own except in soundstage and 3 d layering. Quite an accomplishment for a pure portable. The modded D1 blows the Move out and an amp/dac combo. It is also better as a pure amp with an analog connection. It is warmer and truer than the Move; not by a lot but by enough to make mention. It was a real accomplishment by those that found these opamps to improve the D1...[/left]
```

Glad you liked it! hope skylab and SK138 do as well.


----------



## dw6928

the identity of the famous Headfi celeb who loaned me his modded D1 is revealed in the post above. Like your D1, no
 I loved your D1; I just felt bad for the stock D1 I had prior as it has been marginalized by the changes in opamps.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dw6928* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the identity of the famous Headfi celeb who loaned me his modded D1 is revealed in the post above. Like your D1, no
 I loved your D1; I just felt bad for the stock D1 I had prior as it has been marginalized by the changes in opamps._

 

Well the nice thing about the stock D1 is that it is easy to upgrade it. 


 Who uses an iRiver?? I have one now but the optical out, though red and appearing to transmit, does not send a signal to lock onto. I wonder what else I need to do?


----------



## dw6928

the person who lent me there stock D1 seemed intimidated by the rolling process. unfortunate but true. I know Miguel posted a clear how-to in this thread but he was reluctant. I am sure all of these positive posts will eventually change his mind.


----------



## Capunk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you use it purely as a DAC then just the AD8656 is all you need but if you use any of the amp functions then you need the other chips. The AD8656 feeds signal to the other chips.


 Corey_

 

Does this means,
 AD823 + NE5532*2 is completely separate from AD8616? 

 AD8616 handle this part ?
 (Digital Connection) -> (DAC) -> (D1 Line Out)
 or
 (Digital Connection) -> (DAC) -> (D1 headphone amp) -> (D1 headphone out)?

 So I upgrade the AD823 + NE5532*2 for something like OPA2111 + LM4562, 
 and in this case I still using the default AD8616, Will it improve the SQ if I'm using this combination?

 (Digital input, USB) -> (D1 DAC) -> (D1 amp) -> (D1 HP out) ? 

 Just need to clarify guys =)


----------



## splawren

By my posts - you can probably tell I have NO IDEA what I'm doing for the rolling process, but I'm still doing it anyway - and it's definitely worth the trouble. 

 Thanks for the browndog suggestion - off to butcher some soldering . . .


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well the nice thing about the stock D1 is that it is easy to upgrade it. 


 Who uses an iRiver?? I have one now but the optical out, though red and appearing to transmit, does not send a signal to lock onto. I wonder what else I need to do?_

 

Yuheng had the same issue with his Z-something DAC and iRiver and he had old firmware. He updated the iRiver firmware and that fixed it.


----------



## rnd

I'm interested in this with my MS2i's but am concerned about the gain. My current source sounds wonderful but is lacking current for my choice of headphones. Can the gain easily be adjusted or will iBasso deliver them with a different gain setting - I'm guessing somewhere around 2 or 3? Also would adjusting the gain limit the opAmp rolling options? (I know fairly little about electronics.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)

 I'm interested in the PICO as well, but it's more expensive and doesn't have optical inputs. I guess my ideal would be a Gilmore Lite with a DA and optical inputs. I don't care that much about portability as long as it's not overly large.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yuheng had the same issue with his Z-something DAC and iRiver and he had old firmware. He updated the iRiver firmware and that fixed it._

 


 It worked! Thanks for the info. Ron has been helping to and I thank him. I do want to get a remote for this thing though.


----------



## Amati

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does this means,
 AD823 + NE5532*2 is completely separate from AD8616? 

 AD8616 handle this part ?
 (Digital Connection) -> (DAC) -> (D1 Line Out)
 or
 (Digital Connection) -> (DAC) -> (D1 headphone amp) -> (D1 headphone out)?

 So I upgrade the AD823 + NE5532*2 for something like OPA2111 + LM4562, 
 and in this case I still using the default AD8616, Will it improve the SQ if I'm using this combination?

 (Digital input, USB) -> (D1 DAC) -> (D1 amp) -> (D1 HP out) ? 

 Just need to clarify guys =)_

 


 I think, what he meant was: if you're using D1 as a standalone DAC, outputting its signal to another, higher quality amp, then you don't have to worry about its amp section and the op-amps within it. Otherwise, you'll still get an improvement from 'OPA2111 + LM4562' without rolling DAC's op-amp in your:
 (Digital input, USB) -> (D1 DAC) -> (D1 amp) -> (D1 HP out)


----------



## Capunk

Thank you for your clarification,
 so now I can rest asure, everything is on the track. 

 But I still plan to get AD8656


----------



## Dash

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rnd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm interested in this with my MS2i's but am concerned about the gain. My current source sounds wonderful but is lacking current for my choice of headphones. Can the gain easily be adjusted or will iBasso deliver them with a different gain setting - I'm guessing somewhere around 2 or 3? Also would adjusting the gain limit the opAmp rolling options? (I know fairly little about electronics.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)

 I'm interested in the PICO as well, but it's more expensive and doesn't have optical inputs. I guess my ideal would be a Gilmore Lite with a DA and optical inputs. I don't care that much about portability as long as it's not overly large._

 

IM using the D1 with SR225s and I think it sounds great. My vintage RS2s should be here this afternoon and Ill report back again.


----------



## zer010gic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does this means,
 AD823 + NE5532*2 is completely separate from AD8616? 

 AD8616 handle this part ?
 (Digital Connection) -> (DAC) -> (D1 Line Out)
 or
 (Digital Connection) -> (DAC) -> (D1 headphone amp) -> (D1 headphone out)?

 So I upgrade the AD823 + NE5532*2 for something like OPA2111 + LM4562, 
 and in this case I still using the default AD8616, Will it improve the SQ if I'm using this combination?

 (Digital input, USB) -> (D1 DAC) -> (D1 amp) -> (D1 HP out) ? 

 Just need to clarify guys =)_

 


 I may be totally off on this. This is just my educated guess. If I am then please Hiflight or Jamato8 speak up.

 Basically the signal from the Optical, Coax or USB goes through the 8616 to provide line signal for the line out and input signal for the D1 amp stage. If you are using the internal headphone amp and DAC it goes through all 4 chips but if you are just using the headphone amp and the analog line in then it just uses the 3 chips in the amp stage. If you are using just the dac and outputting via the aux in/out port then just the 8616 is used. This is my understanding.

 Corey


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I may be totally off on this. This is just my educated guess. If I am then please Hiflight or Jamato8 speak up.

 Basically the signal from the Optical, Coax or USB goes through the 8616 to provide line signal for the line out and input signal for the D1 amp stage. If you are using the internal headphone amp and DAC it goes through all 4 chips but if you are just using the headphone amp and the analog line in then it just uses the 3 chips in the amp stage. If you are using just the dac and outputting via the aux in/out port then just the 8616 is used. This is my understanding.

 Corey_

 

Corey....
 You are correct in your analysis of the D1 signal path. 

 There are a couple of opamps that, IMO, improve the DAC section. They AD8656 is a good choice. I am currently using the AD746 as a DAC opamp replacement. 

 Several different opamps sound good as buffers. The AD8397 remains my choice for all-around performance with a wide variety of phones of differing impedances and efficiencies. The AD8599 is a very clean, low-noise opamp that also works well. Some prefer the detail of the LM4562. 

 Surprisingly, the AD8616 which was originally used by iBasso as the DAC amplifier functions very well as a buffer. In combination with the ADA4841-2 L&R opamp, the sound is excellent while current draw is very low. 

 I would also suggest that the inexpensive Radio Shack DIP socket, part number 276-1995 which I use for mounting the DAC replacement opamp, be used with the buffers to simplify installation and removal. They only cost 69 cents per pair. 

 Again, I would like to restate that there is NO "best" combination of opamps that will please all ears. The ones previously mentioned all sound good to most people but picking a favorite really depends on personal preferences. For example, Mrarroyo and I prefer different L&R and buffers opamp combinations, although each of us consider our preference to be the "best" for our individual ears.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It worked! Thanks for the info. Ron has been helping to and I thank him. I do want to get a remote for this thing though._

 

no pro dude, i was accidently updated the firmware by installing rockbox, and it suddenly work, i was shocked as well...

 and i do spend quite some times to look for the optical out in rockbox, finally found that in playback settings, how noob i m


----------



## ajsaxin

I see that we have black gate caps in 15000,22000 and 47000(n series).So some one tell me does it mena the huigher we go the better the amp performance(for portable)Is 47000uf to high for a portable set up.

 All those who done black gate upgrades on their d1s which one sdid you guys choose?


 ***I know tho those who are electronic whiz kids my question might sound like a joke but then I am blank when it coems to these stuff so learnign through the trail and error method


----------



## jamato8

Black Gates are big and too big in the larger uf's. I use 47uf HiQ as seen in the first page images and some much smaller ones as a bypass. 

 Has anyone been able to load Rockbox on their iRiver with a Mac computer? I have a Mac but it doesn't recognize the patch needed for the firmware to use the Rockbox.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Corey....
 You are correct in your analysis of the D1 signal path. 

 There are a couple of opamps that, IMO, improve the DAC section. They AD8656 is a good choice. I am currently using the AD746 as a DAC opamp replacement. 

 Several different opamps sound good as buffers. The AD8397 remains my choice for all-around performance with a wide variety of phones of differing impedances and efficiencies. The AD8599 is a very clean, low-noise opamp that also works well. Some prefer the detail of the LM4562. 

 Surprisingly, the AD8616 which was originally used by iBasso as the DAC amplifier functions very well as a buffer. In combination with the ADA4841-2 L&R opamp, the sound is excellent while current draw is very low. 

 I would also suggest that the inexpensive Radio Shack DIP socket, part number 276-1995 which I use for mounting the DAC replacement opamp, be used with the buffers to simplify installation and removal. They only cost 69 cents per pair. 

 Again, I would like to restate that there is NO "best" combination of opamps that will please all ears. The ones previously mentioned all sound good to most people but picking a favorite really depends on personal preferences. For example, Mrarroyo and I prefer different L&R and buffers opamp combinations, although each of us consider our preference to be the "best" for our individual ears._

 

This may be a shot in the dark cause I'm still new to this, but could it be thought of that the more current draw there is the more bass would be, but less battery life? If so, which opamps draw the most current, since I'm not using this as a portable, and I'm looking for the punchiest bass combo of opamps.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rnd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm interested in this with my MS2i's but am concerned about the gain. My current source sounds wonderful but is lacking current for my choice of headphones. Can the gain easily be adjusted or will iBasso deliver them with a different gain setting - I'm guessing somewhere around 2 or 3? Also would adjusting the gain limit the opAmp rolling options? (I know fairly little about electronics.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)

 I'm interested in the PICO as well, but it's more expensive and doesn't have optical inputs. I guess my ideal would be a Gilmore Lite with a DA and optical inputs. I don't care that much about portability as long as it's not overly large._

 

I would not be at all concerned with the gain of the D1.

 I have found the factory gain setting to be perfectly adequate for all the phones I have tried, from the very efficient to very inefficient, from high-impedance to low-impedance.


----------



## souperman

What is the difference between CDIP and PDIP and regular DIP? Is it just the material used to build it?


----------



## rnd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would not be at all concerned with the gain of the D1.

 I have found the factory gain setting to be perfectly adequate for all the phones I have tried, from the very efficient to very inefficient, from high-impedance to low-impedance._

 

My understanding is Grados and such need more current to maintain control and get all they are capable of - in particular with bass. Is this not true? I notice when I use an amp and set the volume high with the source low on the computer, the bass gets tighter and more pronounced in the very low registers. (It creates other problems because I'm amping an amped signal which is one of the reasons I'm looking for something like this) If this is true then I'm thinking a gain of 10 would mean I'd be using little current when the volume is at a reasonable listening level. Again I'm no expert with electronics so please forgive me if I'm misunderstanding this.

 My headphones sound wonderful directly out of my source but I can tell there is more they can do if I could give them more current and avoid the problems with amping the amped signal I'm getting.


----------



## nc8000

Using the line in from my Sony the D1 only just has enough power to drive my K340's to acceptable (not loud) volume but going optical thru the dac there is plenty even for a monster like K340.


----------



## jamato8

That is amazing! I didn't think it would be able to drive those. Is it adequate in sound quality when driving the 340's or is there some authority with the sound?


----------



## kiwirugby

Off topic, so I'll be brief. I found my old Headroom airbag (eschewed for carrying an MP3 player+amp) and it sort of works for an iBasso and a pcdp (in my case a D-EJ2000). The iBasso sticks out the top section a bit, but with a short mini-Toslink everything is covered save for about 1.5 inches of the iBasso.

 Just thought I'd share...I'm gald I could use it for this rig.


----------



## DennyL

There is much discussion of gain but not much discussion of the voltage output of the source. Gain is just (voltage output)/(voltage input). Although I haven't looked into this, isn't it the case that the voltage ouput of sources differs from one to another? Surely all CDPs and preamps don't output the same voltage??

 I find that, driven by the optical output of my iRiver iH140, I have the volume of my D1 at about 12 o'clock with my AKG K701s and at about 2 o'clock with my Beyer D880s.


----------



## sum1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I would also suggest that the inexpensive Radio Shack DIP socket, part number 276-1995 which I use for mounting the DAC replacement opamp, be used with the buffers to simplify installation and removal. They only cost 69 cents per pair. _

 

So is that Dip socket an alternative to the browndog adapter. If it is then can you please point me if one of these is similar to the radioshack one. I live in Australia and the closest we have to radioshack is a DSE store.

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/P4081
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/P4080


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So is that Dip socket an alternative to the browndog adapter. If it is then can you please point me if one of these is similar to the radioshack one. I live in Australia and the closest we have to radioshack is a DSE store.

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/P4081
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/P4080_

 

Those are exactly what Hiflight is talking about, but they are not an alternative to browndogs. SOIC amps need to be soldered and not just plugged in onto the brown dog adapters.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rnd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My understanding is Grados and such need more current to maintain control and get all they are capable of - in particular with bass. Is this not true? I notice when I use an amp and set the volume high with the source low on the computer, the bass gets tighter and more pronounced in the very low registers. (It creates other problems because I'm amping an amped signal which is one of the reasons I'm looking for something like this) If this is true then I'm thinking a gain of 10 would mean I'd be using little current when the volume is at a reasonable listening level. Again I'm no expert with electronics so please forgive me if I'm misunderstanding this.

 My headphones sound wonderful directly out of my source but I can tell there is more they can do if I could give them more current and avoid the problems with amping the amped signal I'm getting._

 

The current demand issue is one reason that I suggest the use of the AD8397 for buffer application. It is capable of outputting over 300ma of current, if required. That is about 10x the current output of most opamps not specifically designed for use as buffers. 

 There are quite a few opamps designed for buffer use, but the majority of those are single-channel rather than the dual-channel buffers required by the D1. Additionally, many of these buffers are designed for supply voltages greater than that supplied by the D1. 

 An additional requirement is the necessity of selecting a dual-channel, high current opamp that is able to be driven satisfactorily by the supply voltage provided to the buffers by the D1. Although the D1 uses a 12vdc power supply, the supply voltage delivered to the buffers is less than 6vdc. 

 Although may dual channel opamps will work as a buffer in the D1 with phones of modest current and voltage requirements, attention must be given to selection of an appropriate opamp with specific characteristics when use of headphones requiring high current levels is anticipated. 

 One would be surprised at the momentary peaks of current required during high-level transients, heavy bass levels, etc. Use of opamps incapable of delivering adequate current levels will compromise the accuracy of the sound delivered to the headphones, resulting in a lack of detail and loss of the sense of realism, especially in the bass frequencies.


----------



## souperman

Uh oh. I think I have a problem. While swapping opamps, a little gold thing came out of the socket that I was swapping opamps. It came up with the opamp and now I cant find this tiny tiny little gold piece piece. Now my left channel doesn't seem to be working anymore. What should I do?


----------



## Skylab

And that, Ladies and Gentlemen, is why I don't op-amp roll.

 Soup, very sorry to hear about that. You're now missing one conductor receptical socket. You will have to have that repaired.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And that, Ladies and Gentlemen, is why I don't op-amp roll.

 Soup, very sorry to hear about that. You're now missing one conductor receptical socket. You will have to have that repaired._

 

Actually, it works if I plug the opamp directly into the socket instead of going through a Radioshack socket that HiFlight suggested us use.


----------



## Skylab

So you only pulled the conductor out of the RS adapter then? Good.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And that, Ladies and Gentlemen, is why I don't op-amp roll.

 Soup, very sorry to hear about that. You're now missing one conductor receptical socket. You will have to have that repaired._

 

Sorry, I do not agree. It can happen to anything that has a removeable item. Ever break a light bulb when trying to unscrew it from the receptical? I have. I have also had problems at times with tube sockets but that is hardly a reason to not change tubes or is there a reason to not change opamps. Ever have a flat tire? No reason not to drive is it?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, I do not agree. It can happen to anything that has a removeable item. Ever break a light bulb when trying to unscrew it from the receptical? I have. I have also had problems at times with tube sockets but that is hardly a reason to not change tubes or is there a reason to not change opamps. Ever have a flat tire? No reason not to drive is it?_

 

Why is it that if I plug my opamp in directly, it works, but if I go throught he Radio shack adapter the left channel doesn't work anymore?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you only pulled the conductor out of the RS adapter then? Good._

 

No, I pulled the gold thing out of the adapter soldered onto the board. It's not the entire silver thing. It's just the gold little plug. It got stuck on one of my opamps for some reason, and I pulled it out, and it fell somewhere and I've been looking for an hour. Should I get this repaired? I mean I can just not use the Radio shack adapters for the LR channel and I'm fine with that.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And that, Ladies and Gentlemen, is why I don't op-amp roll..._

 

Sorry but I can not agree. If this was the way we thought about everything nothing would ever be done. It was a mistake, heck when anyone of us open an amp we risk loosing one of the screws. Does that mean that we will stop opening the amps to take pictures? No, it means we need to be more careful.

 At worst we would have to buy the part we loose or damage. No big deal IMO.


----------



## Skylab

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, I do not agree. It can happen to anything that has a removeable item. Ever break a light bulb when trying to unscrew it from the receptical? I have. I have also had problems at times with tube sockets but that is hardly a reason to not change tubes or is there a reason to not change opamps. Ever have a flat tire? No reason not to drive is it?_

 

So we disagree. Chip sockets are nowhere NEAR as durable as tube sockets, IMO. All of the amps I have the tube sockets are mounted such that there isn't anyway to damage them when tube rolling (the Yarland P100 is the only exception I have ever seen). Changing op-amps is far harder than changing tubes.

 By the way, all I said is that is why *I* don't op-amp roll. To each his/her own!


----------



## souperman

Can anyone answer my questions instead of debating? . I'm curious as to why it only works when I plug the opamp directly into the socket and the left channel cuts out (it was the top left pin, I'm guessing it's part of the left channel) when I plug it in through a Radio Shack socket. Is this something worth getting repaired because it is working fine by my plugging directly into it?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone answer my questions instead of debating? . I'm curious as to why it only works when I plug the opamp directly into the socket and the left channel cuts out (it was the top left pin, I'm guessing it's part of the left channel) when I plug it in through a Radio Shack socket. Is this something worth getting repaired because it is working fine by my plugging directly into it?_

 

Because there is still contact it is just that the leaf that normally rises up from that contact is gone. The legs on the opamp are long enough to complete the circuit.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So we disagree. Chip sockets are nowhere NEAR as durable as tube sockets, IMO. All of the amps I have the tube sockets are mounted such that there isn't anyway to damage them when tube rolling (the Yarland P100 is the only exception I have ever seen). Changing op-amps is far harder than changing tubes.

 By the way, all I said is that is why *I* don't op-amp roll. To each his/her own! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have pulled thousands of opamps and have never had this happen. I don't find them any more or less durable than tube sockets. I have had tube sockets come apart though and I have had to repair or replace them. You ought to see the ones from the 1920's, they are scary.


----------



## HiFlight

It is hard to imagine the leg coming out of the soldered base socket, considering the hard solder used in the D1. Perhaps it was part of the extended adapter that is used by iBasso rather than part of the base socket. 

 One should not need to pry hard at all to remove any of the socketed opamps.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is hard to imagine the leg coming out of the soldered base socket, considering the hard solder used in the D1. Perhaps it was part of the extended adapter that is used by iBasso rather than part of the base socket. 

 One should not need to pry hard at all to remove any of the socketed opamps._

 

Hm. It was a tiny gold piece. If you look at the socket there is a silver outer ring and a golden inner ring. The gold piece is what came out. It didn't come off the circuit board.


----------



## jamato8

Look at the close-up on page one. You can see the gold inner connector. that is what came out.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Look at the close-up on page one. You can see the gold inner connector. that is what came out._

 

Yes, jamato is exactly right. Do you think it's worth getting fixed or will it be fine if I just plug in the opamps directly. Also, the brown dog adapters have long enough legs right?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, jamato is exactly right. Do you think it's worth getting fixed or will it be fine if I just plug in the opamps directly. Also, the brown dog adapters have long enough legs right?_

 

The legs on the Browndogs are longer than the legs on the RS socket. You should be able to make good enough contact by just fully inserting the browndog into the base socket. If it sounds OK you are good to go, and I would not worry about trying to repair it. The RS socket is only used for convenience in removing and reinstalling the buffers, but necessary only for the DAC replacement opamp.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The legs on the Browndogs are longer than the legs on the RS socket. You should be able to make good enough contact by just fully inserting the browndog into the base socket. If it sounds OK you are good to go, and I would not worry about trying to repair it. The RS socket is only used for convenience in removing and reinstalling the buffers, but necessary only for the DAC replacement opamp._

 

Thanks Ron


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, jamato is exactly right. Do you think it's worth getting fixed or will it be fine if I just plug in the opamps directly. Also, the brown dog adapters have long enough legs right?_

 

Is it going to be stationary or portable while powered on? If portable I'd get it fixed rather than risk jostling causing arcing (even at the low voltages these run on). But then again, I'm paranoid that way.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it going to be stationary or portable while powered on? If portable I'd get it fixed rather than risk jostling causing arcing (even at the low voltages these run on). But then again, I'm paranoid that way._

 

It'll be stationary. I'm not going to be bringing it around. Why would it cause arcing?


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It'll be stationary. I'm not going to be bringing it around. Why would it cause arcing?_

 

If the amp moves (jarred, falls off shelf) when powered on and the pin is not firmly attached, it can break connection with a small air gap. Even small voltages can cause an arc over the air. Opamps, etc. can get destroyed by small arcs. There's a reason the manufacturers put them in those antistatic bags/tubes, recommend precautions, etc. 

 Some may say this will never happen, and they may be right. No one but yourself has seen the connection quality of that pin, so it may be good enough, or you may be lucky for a very short time. You met Mr. Murphy once, are you looking forward to saying hello again?


----------



## Schalldampfer

Where do you guys order the opamps? And which require soldering?


----------



## jaspert

Wow! I just got my LM4562 pair today and couldn't wait to get home to pop them in tonight to complement the OP2111 i sourced from ebay last week.
 1 hour later, i still can't wipe the smile off my face. The improvement over stock is major . It's more obvious with HD 650/K701 with bigger soundstage, imaging and more weight to the mid range. Fantastic!
 I'm new to op amp rolling too and i've never had so much fun for such minimal outlay in my years of hifi journey.


 Big thumbs up for Jamato8, Ron, Mrarroyo and others who had gone through the yards to get this collective knowledge and continue to provide advise reg op amp rolling to noobs like me.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Where do you guys get these chips?


----------



## Capunk

Ebay (for my OPA2111 KP & LM4562)

 As most people suggest here,
 go to newark (search google for the address).


----------



## jaspert

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where do you guys get these chips?_

 

I got the OP 2111 from American ebay seller.

 The LM4562 were bought from a local computer parts webstore in Australia.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Thank you both.


----------



## MoAv

What is reasonable pricing for those opamps ? paid $15 for a pair of Opa2111.
 Which Caps did you use again Jamato ?


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where do you guys get these chips?_

 

You can try Mouser and Digi-key too.


----------



## HiFlight

I have continued to try various opamp configurations in all D1 sockets, as I have had quite a few requests for a combination that results in long battery life as well as providing superb sound. 

 Because of the long lead time for delivery of the AD8656, I have also been searching for an opamp that would equal the performance of the AD8656 as a DAC opamp replacement. 

 I have found that the AD746 performs admirably as a DAC amplifier. It also more closely matches the volume settings of the Aux input. 

 For extended battery life, the ADA4841-2 in combination with the LMH6643 is suberb match that not only draws very low current, but has outstanding SQ. 

 I also found a source for the "Solid Tube" WV, which results in a very nicely-balanced tubelike sound. This also sounds great with the LMH6643.

 Although I earlier suggested the use of the AD8616 as a buffer, there is not an adequate safety margin between the supply voltage of the D1 L&R and buffer sockets and the safe limits of the 8616 to use this opamp in those sockets. The LMH6643 is an excellent choice of buffer as it has a high slew rate, high output current, and very low current draw. Sound quality is quite similar to that of the LM4562, IMO. 

 To preclude a long post that may not be of interest to all D1 owners, those desiring more details can send me a PM or email. ( HiFlight AT hotmail DOT com)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I haven't even bothered trying my LM4562 x2 as buffers till I get my OPA2111, AD8066 AD8397 and AD8656 on Browndogs from Hiflight...

 Will the LM4562 work well in other positions as well? I have 5 of them...


----------



## souperman

Has anyone tried the OPA2107?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone tried the OPA2107?_

 

I did try the 2107 with a number of different buffers. I found that it had a midrange sizzle that I didn't care for. It is not a bad sounding opamp, just that I think there are others that do more justice to the D1. (2111, 8066, 4841, 6241HV) These still remain my top choices. AD4599 and LM4562 also sound good in LR. Any of these outperform the 2107. I believe it is operating near the bottom of its voltage range.


----------



## PPkiller

you meant ad3599?

 just wondering.. any 1 tried ad3599 for the dac section? any comment on how it sound over the stock?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did try the 2107 with a number of different buffers. I found that it had a midrange sizzle that I didn't care for. It is not a bad sounding opamp, just that I think there are others that do more justice to the D1. (2111, 8066, 4841, 6241HV) These still remain my top choices. AD4599 and LM4562 also sound good in LR. Any of these outperform the 2107. I believe it is operating near the bottom of its voltage range._

 

How is the 6241HV? 

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Supplier+D...sp?sku=34M6928

 That is the one correct?


----------



## elnino

Not sure if this is news or not but I sent an email to ibasso today asking if I could order a D1 with different opamps and if not, if they had plans to offer an upgraded version. Their reply:

 Hi, Edward,
 We will release another version of D1 which use different opamps in November. Thank you.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio


----------



## sum1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elnino* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not sure if this is news or not but I sent an email to ibasso today asking if I could order a D1 with different opamps and if not, if they had plans to offer an upgraded version. Their reply:

 Hi, Edward,
 We will release another version of D1 which use different opamps in November. Thank you.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio_

 


 What! oh well i guess i'll just cancel my order for my D1 and wait for the new one to come out since i rather get the new opamps.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I am thinking the main point will be to offer a D1 version (not new model) that uses more expnesive opamps and puts sound quality ahead of all else, and our version that is a balance between battery life and sound and cost.


----------



## elnino

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am thinking the main point will be to offer a D1 version (not new model) that uses more expnesive opamps and puts sound quality ahead of all else, and our version that is a balance between battery life and sound and cost._

 

I agree with your statement as iBasso said "...another version of D1 which use different opamps..."
 November is just a month away. I will wait. As much as I would like to roll opamps, I would hate to void the warranty.


----------



## splawren

I assume there will be nothing to keep us from upgrading the opamps to match . . .


----------



## PeterDLai

They should call it the iBasso D1 Reference. That'll make things confusing.


----------



## ammatos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I also found a source for the "Solid Tube" WV, which results in a very nicely-balanced tubelike sound. This also sounds great with the LMH6643._

 

thanXs for all the great info. Would you please be so kind as to provide source for the "Solid Tube". As i'm still new here, please PM if there's a no-no about posting source. Mucho thanXs.

 angel


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elnino* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree with your statement as iBasso said "...another version of D1 which use different opamps..."
 November is just a month away. I will wait. As much as I would like to roll opamps, I would hate to void the warranty._

 

Rolling op-amps does not void the iBasso warranty.


----------



## sum1

Well i just cancelled my order to wait for the new ones with the new opamps. They told me it will cost more but they are unable to tell me a price for it since they haven't decided to use which opamps.

 I also asked if the current one will still be available when the new one is out and they told me yes it will and that there should be several versions of D1 available at the same.

 I also asked about warranty question for opamp rolling and they told me that Opamp rolling will void the warranty, but we still responsible to repair our products. I am not entirely sure what they mean about that.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also asked about warranty question for opamp rolling and they told me that Opamp rolling will void the warranty, but we still responsible to repair our products. I am not entirely sure what they mean about that._

 

Hmmm, that's quite a surprise, considering that iBasso seem to encourage op-amp rolling as a feature of the D1. 

 They should explicitly state their position on their site.

 Nonetheless, they seem committed to providing excellent service, so I doubt they're gonna let anyone be left hanging out to dry for rolling a few op-amps.


----------



## HiFlight

During some of my correspondence with iBasso regarding their choice of opamps and my experiences with various opamps, they stated that although they were aware that there were opamps that could deliver improved SQ in the D1, they were hampered by cost and availability issues due to their location in China. 

 Not only did they experience difficulty with the opamps, they had these same issues with other vital components such as capacitors. 

 Perhaps the new version will be modified to permit the use of single-channel devices, which would offer many additional choices in the selection of usable opamps. 

 Keep in mind that iBasso must always consider component availability, cost and battery life when selecting devices for any production electronic equipment.


----------



## yuheng

i got a noob question here, as for 6421HV, which one is the top and which one is bottom, coz it doesnot have indicator.....

 it stop me for soldering, i mean, whether the text is readable from left, or from right?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I also asked about warranty question for opamp rolling and they told me that Opamp rolling will void the warranty, but we still responsible to repair our products. I am not entirely sure what they mean about that._

 

That's odd. This is what I got from them a couple weeks ago regarding cap and opamp rolling:

  Quote:


 Hi, Mike,
 The following is our warranty regulation:
_ This warranty does not apply to the batteries used in the amplifier, and does not apply when failure is due to, accident alteration, water infiltration, modification, unauthorized service, misuse, abuse, use with incompatible accessories or attachments, failure to follow operations, or claim made after the duration of this warranty._

 Cap rolling void the D1 warranty, *but appropriate opamp rolling wont damage the D1, so wont void the D1 warranty*.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio 
 

So basically you can roll opamps as much as you want and you wont void the warranty. Although, if you damage the amp due to opamp rolling, that may void the warranty.


----------



## HiFlight

There have been considerable posts recently regarding which is the "best" choice of opamp, as well as discussion regarding the possibility of delaying ordering the D1 until iBasso comes out with a "better" or "best" configuration. 

 That will NEVER happen! It is relatively easy for me to pick 5 or 6 good choices, but even when several of us really "hardcore" rollers get together for a mini-meet, we rarely agree on which sounds "best". My favorite is rarely the same as the others in attendance, and it often results in each individual favoring a different opamp. 

 It is even more difficult for iBasso to arrive at a configuration that will please everyone, as they have issues such as cost, availability and battery life to consider. They may choose to develop something entirely different, such as an amp that has an exterior power supply, or even a different circuit configuration. They will not, I can say with certainty, find one opamp that will be a magic bullet for everyone!. 

 Many feel that using different opamps in amplifier will result in coloration of the sound. Technically speaking, perhaps this is correct, but all music is colored to some degree or another by room acoustics, hall size, speakers or headphone characteristics, and even by our own personal physiology among other things. 

 Everyone has their individual preference for sound quality, such as "punchy" bass, lots of "presence", smoother highs, etc, etc, etc. 

 These are all simply different shades of coloration, and no one opamp will satisfy everyone, just as no specific brand of source, amp or phones can be called the "best". 

 I would suggest simply trying several different opamps and see how they sound. It is easy, relatively inexpensive, and one will undoubtedly find a configuration that sounds the BEST to you! 

 I have tried to suggest, based on many trials and combinations of opamps and benchmarked for sound quality against one of my high-end tube amps, to post a selection of opamps that will perhaps eliminate some trial and error in the selection process. I always consider battery life and reliability along with sound quality, as these are every bit as important as other factors when choosing a possible replacement for the factory defaults. 

 Please don't ask what is the BEST, because there is not an answer that will suit the tastes of all listeners!!! 

 Any of the opamps mentioned in previous posts as good swaps are fine choices, but in the end, the "best" choice is what YOU like!!!!


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There have been considerable posts recently regarding which is the "best" choice of opamp, as well as discussion regarding the possibility of delaying ordering the D1 until iBasso comes out with a "better" or "best" configuration. 

 That will NEVER happen! It is relatively easy for me to pick 5 or 6 good choices, but even when several of us really "hardcore" rollers get together for a mini-meet, we rarely agree on which sounds "best"..._

 

This concept seems to be easily overlooked around here for reasons I can never understand. Commiserations.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i got a noob question here, as for 6421HV, which one is the top and which one is bottom, coz it doesnot have indicator.....

 it stop me for soldering, i mean, whether the text is readable from left, or from right?_

 

Yuheng...

 If you orient the opamp with the printing so it reads from left to right like a book, the #1 pin will be bottom left directly below the number 6, and #8 pin will be top left above the small diamond symbol. Use a magnifier just to make sure you have it oriented correctly.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There have been considerable posts recently regarding which is the "best" choice of opamp, as well as discussion regarding the possibility of delaying ordering the D1 until iBasso comes out with a "better" or "best" configuration. 

 That will NEVER happen! It is relatively easy for me to pick 5 or 6 good choices, but even when several of us really "hardcore" rollers get together for a mini-meet, we rarely agree on which sounds "best". My favorite is rarely the same as the others in attendance, and it often results in each individual favoring a different opamp. 

 It is even more difficult for iBasso to arrive at a configuration that will please everyone, as they have issues such as cost, availability and battery life to consider. They may choose to develop something entirely different, such as an amp that has an exterior power supply, or even a different circuit configuration. They will not, I can say with certainty, find one opamp that will be a magic bullet for everyone!. 

 Many feel that using different opamps in amplifier will result in coloration of the sound. Technically speaking, perhaps this is correct, but all music is colored to some degree or another by room acoustics, hall size, speakers or headphone characteristics, and even by our own personal physiology among other things. 

 Everyone has their individual preference for sound quality, such as "punchy" bass, lots of "presence", smoother highs, etc, etc, etc. 

 These are all simply different shades of coloration, and no one opamp will satisfy everyone, just as no specific brand of source, amp or phones can be called the "best". 

 I would suggest simply trying several different opamps and see how they sound. It is easy, relatively inexpensive, and one will undoubtedly find a configuration that sounds the BEST to you! 

 I have tried to suggest, based on many trials and combinations of opamps and benchmarked for sound quality against one of my high-end tube amps, to post a selection of opamps that will perhaps eliminate some trial and error in the selection process. I always consider battery life and reliability along with sound quality, as these are every bit as important as other factors when choosing a possible replacement for the factory defaults. 

 Please don't ask what is the BEST, because there is not an answer that will suit the tastes of all listeners!!! 

 Any of the opamps mentioned in previous posts as good swaps are fine choices, but in the end, the "best" choice is what YOU like!!!!_

 

Very good post Ron.


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yuheng...

 If you orient the opamp with the printing so it reads from left to right like a book, the #1 pin will be bottom left directly below the number 6, and #8 pin will be top left above the small diamond symbol. Use a magnifier just to make sure you have it oriented correctly._

 

thanks a lot dude, i think i got what ur point, thks


----------



## xnothingpoetic

I just found out about this amp/dac
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=229781

 interesting. I didn't know the d1 played off this amp (basically an updated version?)

 I wonder how similar the circuits were?


----------



## Sieg9198

I've just sent and e-mail to iBasso asking them about the new version of the iBasso D1, and they reply within an hour!!!

 Here's what they said:
  Quote:


 Hi, Sir,
 Thank you for your concern.
 Since we cant find better caps in the market so far, we would only change the opamps on the new version of D1. Also, we will only supply upgrade kit to our dealers if their customers wanted.
 If you have any further questions, just feel free to let me know.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio" 
 

To yuheng:Maybe they'll send you the upgrade kit they're talking about, wonder what it is....


----------



## HiFlight

Either the ADA4841-2 or LTC6241HV as LR with LMH6643 as buffers.

 All 3 are only available in the SOIC configuration and need to be soldered onto adapters.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Either the ADA4841-2 or LTC6241HV as LR with LMH6643 as buffers.

 All 3 are only available in the SOIC configuration and need to be soldered onto adapters._

 

Ron, I have the LMH6643, please save for me the ADA4841-2 and LTC6241HV. Thanks.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Either the ADA4841-2 or LTC6241HV as LR with LMH6643 as buffers.

 All 3 are only available in the SOIC configuration and need to be soldered onto adapters._

 

So how does this stack up against some of the better amps you have heard with the latest opamps in the D1?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So how does this stack up against some of the better amps you have heard with the latest opamps in the D1?_

 

I like it better than my Reference, I think it has a cleaner, more detailed soundstage. I like it better than the SR-71. It is closer than one would imagine to my tube amps. In all fairness to the Reference and SR71, I think part of the improvement is a result of the Blackgate coupling caps.

 I have yet to try the LMH6643 in the DAC socket, but I am anticipating that based on its slew rate and power output along with some other specs, it should sound very good. I need to mount another 6643 first, as my only 2 already mounted are being used as buffers.


----------



## NelsonVandal

I told you AD823 is crap and AD8397 isn't the final statement in sound quality.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just found out about this amp/dac
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=229781

 interesting. I didn't know the d1 played off this amp (basically an updated version?)

 I wonder how similar the circuits were?_

 

iBasso made some comments on their web site that the D1 is a complete redesign.


----------



## Computerstud

Can someone provide a link to instructions on modding the D1 (with all the mods)? 
 Searching through this gigantic thread I'm still a bit disoriented.

 EDIT: *Would it be possible for Miguel, Ron, or Jam to start a thread with instructions on modding the D1 with various mods?*
 It would help reduce confusions as well as guide many of us in the right direction.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Computerstud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone provide a link to instructions on modding the D1 (with all the mods)? 
 Searching through this gigantic thread I'm still a bit disoriented._

 

same here too.. i'm searching for posts on which cap to mod... this is interesting..


----------



## PPkiller

ron.... is there a picture of which cap to mod for D1?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ron.... is there a picture of which cap to mod for D1?_

 

Here is a link to an earlier post on this thread that shows the innards of the D1 very well:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...253987&page=15

 The caps I changed were the 2 blue ones located between the LR opamp and the buffers. The center one I left unchanged. 

 This is not a project for those who have not worked with small circuit board projects before. The solder used by iBasso is very hard and takes considerable heat to melt, and is even more difficult to remove the residue from the board without damaging the foil traces. This is necessary to accomplish neatly in order to install the replacement caps. 

 I do not think the results are worth the risk unless you can acquire the appropriate Blackgate caps and are willing to accept the possibility of damage to the amp when removing and installing the new caps. 

 Attempt this type of mod at your own risk, as it will void the D1 warranty, whereas swapping out opamps will not The selection of an appropriate combination of opamps will improve the sound of the amp section considerably without the risking damage to the main circuitboard.


----------



## PPkiller

Thanks ron... Are those two cap there to block dc voltage from the dac? what are the values of the blackgate capacitors you used? i'm wondering whether the NX Hi-q 22uf 6.3v is sufficient..


----------



## jamato8

The 22uf HiQ should work fine. I used the 47uf HiQ 6.3v per the image on the the first page. I also used two 150uf Oscon caps in the power supply section for the dac opamp and the amp opamp. I also bypassed the 470uf ps cap for the buffers with a 4.7 nonpolar red Black Gate. It can also be seen on the images of the first page. 

 The sound after doing all of the Black Gate changes and bypassing I did is warmer, very smooth and detailed and more tube like in the complexity of the sound and analog quality. It takes a few hundred hours for the sound to settle and I was not sure, even after years of experience with BG's, where it would fall but the sound is very natural and organic.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks ron... Are those two cap there to block dc voltage from the dac? what are the values of the blackgate capacitors you used? i'm wondering whether the NX Hi-q 22uf 6.3v is sufficient.._

 

I used 47uf BG Hi-Q NP. I believe they are coupling capacitors for L/R. 

 Please make note that I am not encouraging that this be done.


----------



## HiFlight

[Quote:
 Originally Posted by Skylab
 There is absolutely no hidden agreement - I stated it quite plainly. iBasso Audio asked me not to include the D1 in this review, and I agreed. Simple as that. I reviewed it elsewhere. 

 In their view, it's not the same type of product as these. Fine with me. Unquote]



 It is my impression, after corresponding with iBasso, that they are well-aware of the shortcomings of the stock D1 amplifier. They also welcome our input into the possible opamp combinations that improve the amplifier section.

 They face considerable difficulty in sourcing many opamps as well as other devices that would actually result in a much improved product.

 They feel hampered in their efforts to stock quality componets, but it is a fact of life due to their location. I believe that, in part, is why they are so receptive to our efforts to improve the already superb basic design of the D1. 

 We will undoubted be able to readily acquire a larger selection of quality components in the US than iBasso is able to stock for production at their location in China, so the future for continuing D1 opamp rolling looks bright! 

 I continue to be impressed with the basic design of the D1 and the willingness of D1 to interact with our efforts at improving their amp.


----------



## jamato8

The D1 has responded to opamp changes more than Any amp I have worked with. I have also worked with tubes for years and few have responded to such a degree as the D1 to different opamps. To me this is very positive as the D1 seems to reflect the opamp being used and does not obscure the sound with other component in the circuitry. This, to me, is implementation at a high order.

 I finally got my iRiver to accept Rockbox! Hello to a new frontier in learing for Johnny. Seems like I am always in some sort of learing curve, as if daily life isn't enough! :^)


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I used 47uf BG Hi-Q NP. I believe they are coupling capacitors for L/R._

 

Thanks to you and jamato8 for the info and pictures for the capacitor upgrades. Do you source your BGs from Parts Connexion or elsewhere?


----------



## jamato8

Parts Connexion or Michael Percy. Get them while you can because they are now out of production. I have said this before but, "There is nothing like Black Gates and I doubt there ever will be again". They are made entirely different from any other caps. I have used them direction in the signal path and have been amazed but they do take a very long time to burn/break in. I have in the past taken them out of a circuit because I thought the sound was poor, which it was but then knowing better due to experience, put them back and waited and they have always come around and I have to state I have Never been dissapointed with what they do in any application. 

 The D1, as I stated above, has smoothed out and warmed a bit to because very, no exceedingly, pleasing to the ear.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Parts Connexion or Michael Percy. Get them while you can because they are now out of production._

 

I heard that as well so I'll snag a handful before they are gone. Thanks for the info!


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I heard that as well so I'll snag a handful before they are gone. Thanks for the info!_

 

I reuse them all the time if I no longer use the equipment they are in and tend to leave a little longer lead in place. I plan on placing a pretty good order soon.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I reuse them all the time if I no longer use the equipment they are in and tend to leave a little longer lead in place. I plan on placing a pretty good order soon._

 

Good point on the reuse--that is the way to go.


----------



## willisv

Quick question Jamato, is this all the caps i will need to do the same as your D1:

 6 - 47uf HiQ Blackgates
 1 - 4.7uf nonpolar Blackgate
 1 - Sanyo 150uf SQ

 You also said something about using 2 150uf oscons in the digital section, but i couldn't see that in the pictures you took. Thanks for all the info!


----------



## HiFlight

I have found a very nice-sounding opamp combination that draws only 14ma total for all 5 opamps, (1DAC, 1L/R and 2 buffers) compared to the stock configuration that draws approx. 40 ma. In comparison, the OPA2111/LM4562/AD8656, while a fine-sounding combination, draws about 43ma. 

 This should result in significantly longer battery life even when using the full DAC/Amplifier combination. 

 Tonal balance, soundstage and detail are very good, with a clean, open sound. 

 The following are the opamps I used in this configuration:

 L/R: ADA4841-2
 Buffers: LMH6643
 DAC: LT6234

 One can substitue the LT6234 or the LTC6241HV for the ADA4841 with little audible difference. Also the ADA4841 works quite well in the DAC socket in place of the LT6234. 

 There are slight differences in the sound when changing LR opamps, but please do not ask me which is best. They are very close, and the choice will largely be determined by the choice of music, headphones, and personal preference. 

 I do find that with these combinations the sound quality is VERY close when switching the same source (iRiver H120) between the D1 Aux input and the Optical input, which tells me that the quality of the amplifier section is now equal to the quality of the DAC. 

 If using the D1 primarily by battery power rather than with an adapter, one might wish to try some of these low-current draw opamps.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have found a very nice-sounding opamp combination that draws only 14ma total for all 5 opamps, (1DAC, 1L/R and 2 buffers) compared to the stock configuration that draws approx. 40 ma. In comparison, the OPA2111/LM4562/AD8656, while a fine-sounding combination, draws about 43ma. 

 This should result in significantly longer battery life even when using the full DAC/Amplifier combination. 

 Tonal balance, soundstage and detail are very good, with a clean, open sound. 

 The following are the opamps I used in this configuration:

 L/R: ADA4841-2
 Buffers: LMH6643
 DAC: LT6234

 One can substitue the LT6234 or the LTC6241HV for the ADA4841 with little audible difference. Also the ADA4841 works quite well in the DAC socket in place of the LT6234. 

 There are slight differences in the sound when changing LR opamps, but please do not ask me which is best. They are very close, and the choice will largely be determined by the choice of music, headphones, and personal preference. 

 I do find that with these combinations the sound quality is VERY close when switching the same source (iRiver H120) between the D1 Aux input and the Optical input, which tells me that the quality of the amplifier section is now equal to the quality of the DAC. 

 If using the D1 primarily by battery power rather than with an adapter, one might wish to try some of these low-current draw opamps._

 

Is your favorite still the OPA2111/LM4562/AD8656 combo if current did not matter? Just wondering.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is your favorite still the OPA2111/LM4562/AD8656 combo if current did not matter? Just wondering._

 

That is not my personal favorite.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is not my personal favorite._

 

Ah, I see. What is your personal favorite when current draw does not come into play? I remember you saying you really liked the AD8397's in the buffer position.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I finally got my iRiver to accept Rockbox! Hello to a new frontier in learing for Johnny. Seems like I am always in some sort of learing curve, as if daily life isn't enough! :^)_

 

I got rockbox on a while ago, but with iRiver flash V1.63 not 1.66 - I skipped 1.66 because the date modified was older than 1.63 and I was afraid to use it.


----------



## jamato8

I used 1.66 and now that I am getting used to Rockbox I can see why it is much better than the iRiver software. So many more possibilities and more user friendly and I can still use the iRiver software if I want to. I would like to drop in a 40G drive to my 120 or pick up a black 140. I like the way the iRiver is contructed and the quality feel. 

 I have the iRiver 120 now velcroed to the top of the D1 with the optical cable (a very short custom one from Syscon in Canada) and it is a great combination.


----------



## HiFlight

Happy day!!! My long-awaited AD8656 opamps arrived today.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Happy day!!! My long-awaited AD8656 opamps arrived today._

 

Not as happy for me. I was feeling well enough to leave the house for the first time in days, and just got to the UPS Store to get my mail and you the two LM4562's - and when I got there I realised that I had left the chips at home.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 On a good note my Livewires were waiting for me there, and I can't wait to check the new fit.


----------



## Capunk

Ron, I want one


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Happy day!!! My long-awaited AD8656 opamps arrived today._

 

Ron, have you tried the 8656 as buffers and the 8397 as the amp? Or the reverse? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Please try it and call me.


----------



## Jamfan16

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the iRiver 120 now velcroed to the top of the D1 with the optical cable (a very short custom one from Syscon in Canada) and it is a great combination._

 

Based on the measurements, it seems like the D1 is similar to the HR Micro amps. Does anyone know if the HR portable micro bag and micro strap work with the D1?


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ron, have you tried the 8656 as buffers and the 8397 as the amp? Or the reverse? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Please try it and call me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

What's with the 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










 What did you found out about those combo


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ron, have you tried the 8656 as buffers and the 8397 as the amp? Or the reverse? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Please try it and call me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

Miguel... 

 WARNING!!!!! Do NOT use the AD8656 in either L/R or Buffer sockets on the D1. You will quickly hear a pop and the opamp will no longer be usable! The supply voltage exceeds the AD8656 limits. The same is true for the AD8616. It is possible that this can also damage other components in the D1

 You can safely use the "Solid Tube WV" which is the LTC6241HV in the L/R position in place of the AD8656.

 I find the ADA4841-2 to also be an excellent choice for L/R.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jamfan16* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Based on the measurements, it seems like the D1 is similar to the HR Micro amps. Does anyone know if the HR portable micro bag and micro strap work with the D1?_

 

Micro bag: 14.0cm (long) x 10.2cm (wide) x 6.4cm (deep)

 D1: 12.0cm (long) x 7.6cm (wide) x 3.1cm (deep)

 Should fit. But depends on what you want to put with it!


----------



## anadin

Does anyone have a date when the new revised iBasso D1 will go on sale.


----------



## Capunk

I guess they still on the research lab, and currently only on planning level... but they said "soon" ? I guess they need to focus on fulfilling their d1 stock level first before jumping to 2nd version


----------



## Schalldampfer

So... only the opamp is changed?


----------



## Monster_Omelette

Argh! While removing the AC adapter from the surge protector, one of the prongs came off! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Needless to say, I'm hosed once it runs out of battery 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: Luckily, iBasso's excellent customer service came though and they're sending me another AC adapter 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Unfortunately, it'll take 10-17 days to get to me


----------



## pianomav

Hey guys, what's a good IEM to pair with the D1? Any suggestions? My max budget is $400...but would prefer less if it has good value/performance.


----------



## Skylab

I actually think the Shure E500 is a great choice, since it's a little mellow, and the D1 (as supplied with stock op-amps) is a little bright. E500's can be had on EBay brand new with warranty for $250.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pianomav* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, what's a good IEM to pair with the D1? Any suggestions? My max budget is $400...but would prefer less if it has good value/performance._

 

I have been very pleased with my Future Sonic Atrio M5. It goes very well with the D1. Can be had for about $135 on Ebay. I also have the Westone UM2 and ER4P, but feel that the Atrios sound better with my D1.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Skylab* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I actually think the Shure E500 is a great choice, since it's a little mellow, and the D1 (as supplied with stock op-amps) is a little bright. E500's can be had on EBay brand new with warranty for $250._

 

I agree - my SE500's and the D1 have great synergy when used together, especially when using the DAC section with the amp.


----------



## BadEmu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tomorrow I am scheduled to receive the replacement D1 from iBasso. For those that do not remember it will replace the one I have had since 9/4 and on which the blue light on the front panel stoped working before the 12 hour mark. Excellent customer service by iBasso. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The funny/sad thing is that the blue light started working today on its own. ??? Besides a gremlin, any idea why a light that went out a week ago just started working w/o any work done to it? I mean I feel bad that iBasso spent money to send me a new D1 and the one I have starts working on its own 24 hours before the arrival of its replacement. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks._

 

I have this problem as well, and while ibasso is sending a replacement, I have to pay for the shipping one way (they've graciously offered to pay the other side*cough*) Not terribly happy about that, given that it supposedly has a one year warranty. The first email they sent expressed doubt over whether the issue was covered at all, since it worked when I first got it.

  Quote:


 I am sorry to hear that. We only send replacement to the D1 owner if the D1 is
 DOA or break down within the first upon arrival. I am going to ask my boss for
 the solution for you case.
 Also, D1 is out of stock right now.
 I will get back to you later.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio 
 

While they did eventually decide to replace it, I think I'm going to be holding off on any opamp rolling until I'm sure there are no little gremlins with this one. Is it typical to have to cover shipping on new things still under warranty?


----------



## DennyL

The blue light on first D1 I had never came on, and they sent a replacement D1.


----------



## globiboulga

Well, it is my assumption that you always have to pay the shipping cost to send your item back, even when under warranty. This said, you should consider yourselves pretty lucky. I can't see many companies sending a replacement before having received the faulty machine.

 In my case (my battery died), I'm first having to send the D1 back, which will leave me without amplification until they receive the unit, repair it and send it back. I forecast a long month...


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, it is my assumption that you always have to pay the shipping cost to send your item back, even when under warranty._

 

My D1 was faulty when I received it and they have said that they will remiburse me for shiipping the first D1 back to them. The relevant bit of their email said _After you send it out, please let me know the shipping cost, I will refund immediately. Thank you for your cooperation and sorry for the inconveniences._


----------



## BadEmu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, it is my assumption that you always have to pay the shipping cost to send your item back, even when under warranty. This said, you should consider yourselves pretty lucky. I can't see many companies sending a replacement before having received the faulty machine.

 In my case (my battery died), I'm first having to send the D1 back, which will leave me without amplification until they receive the unit, repair it and send it back. I forecast a long month...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, if that's typical, then so be it. I do want to say it's a phenomenal sounding amp, highly detailed, if a bit bright as noted, but incredible, almost holographic soundstage.


----------



## jamato8

My experience except for my Mac PowerBook, which I paid for the 3 year warranty and shipping is included in that warranty, is that you always have to pay for shipping to the manufacture and they pay the shipping back. Try some heavy amps for home use that may cost 100 plus dollars for shipping and the wallet really starts to scream.


----------



## Penchum

I received an email from iBasso this morning. They expect to start selling the newest D1 in early November. They have started a "I want the newest one" list and as soon as they become available, they will email the folks on the list in order and have them make the purchase. I got my name on there. Sure it is just an opamp change, but I'd like to NOT modify mine right away when I get it. If you want on the list, just send them an email!!!

 Dave


----------



## HiFlight

In the ongoing but elusive search for musical perfection the rolling continues!

 The following configuration is probably one of my personal favorites:

 LTC6241HV L/R
 LMH6643 Buffers
 LMH6643 DAC

 All 3 are SOIC and need adapters.

 For those who might be interested in additional details, please PM or Email me.


----------



## zer010gic

How does it compare to the OPA2111/AD8397/AD8656 combo? Also which has higher output. I don't care about battery life.


----------



## Capunk

So guys, has anyone found the most "WOW" opamps combination?
 I'm still searching for the most warm, relaxing and less bright opamps -_-


----------



## visia

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does it compare to the OPA2111/AD8397/AD8656 combo? Also which has higher output. I don't care about battery life._

 

Second that. Is it worth the trouble if battery life is not an issue.


----------



## darkswordsman17

Sorry to get a little off topic (and forgive me if this has already been asked), but is there anything else that offers what the D1 does? By this I mean a pretty good amp section, with USB, Coax, and optical inputs? Doesn't have to be portable (transportable would be nice though). I know there's the DAC1 and other things up in that price range, but anything (else) in $200-500 range that does?


----------



## nc8000

The only other ones I know of is the Apogee mini dac at $895 and several of the HeadRoom units at various price points


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Penchum* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I received an email from iBasso this morning. They expect to start selling the newest D1 in early November. They have started a "I want the newest one" list and as soon as they become available, they will email the folks on the list in order and have them make the purchase. I got my name on there. Sure it is just an opamp change, but I'd like to NOT modify mine right away when I get it. If you want on the list, just send them an email!!!

 Dave_

 

So... just e-mail them about it ask to be put on the list?


----------



## ajsaxin

I got a mail from them and they told me it would be shipped out on monday.I rather not wait for the new opamps as I could do it my self.I am sure the new one would come at a far higher price than what it would cost you to do it.

 Changing opamps does not violate the warranty.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ajsaxin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got a mail from them and they told me it would be shipped out on monday.I rather not wait for the new opamps as I could do it my self.I am sure the new one would come at a far higher price than what it would cost you to do it.

 Changing opamps does not violate the warranty._

 

My sort of thinking too. I enjoy tinkering and even if the D1 shipped with improved op amps who is to say that they would synergize with your tastes or cans? Plus there is still a lot of research going on as to what are good opamps to try.

 When did you order? I placed my order on the Sept 16th - it would be great if my D1 were shipped early next week too.


----------



## justhavingfun

I want to thank mrarroyo, jamato8, and HiFlight for their continuous suggestion of possible opamp rolling combo for D1. I ended up collecting quite a few of different opamps now. But so far, my absolute favorite opamp combo for D1 is OPA2111/LM4562/AD8656 and I believe this combo was first suggested by mrarroyo. Thanks again for suggesting this combo for us mrarroyo. This combo is sounding so good right now to my ears, I am not so sure I want to swap anytime soon.


----------



## pianomav

hehehe.. my opamps are on the way....now if i can just get my hands on that D1


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *justhavingfun* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I want to thank mrarroyo, jamato8, and HiFlight for their continuous suggestion of possible opamp rolling combo for D1. I ended up collecting quite a few of different opamps now. But so far, my absolute favorite opamp combo for D1 is OPA2111/LM4562/AD8656 and I believe this combo was first suggested by mrarroyo. Thanks again for suggesting this combo for us mrarroyo. This combo is sounding so good right now to my ears, I am not so sure I want to swap anytime soon.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

Thanks, but it has been a team effort. HiFlight and Jamato8 just to mention a couple have added far more than I. The thing is there are so many combinations that by having a few of us trying different op-amps it makes it a lot cheaper and quicker for all of us to get a better sound.


----------



## Lad27

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I used 1.66 and now that I am getting used to Rockbox I can see why it is much better than the iRiver software. So many more possibilities and more user friendly and I can still use the iRiver software if I want to. I would like to drop in a 40G drive to my 120 or pick up a black 140. I like the way the iRiver is contructed and the quality feel. 

 I have the iRiver 120 now velcroed to the top of the D1 with the optical cable (a very short custom one from Syscon in Canada) and it is a great combination._

 

Thats the way to go portable! Or at least the way I understand "portable". Some people consider laptop as portable.

 Anyway, how could you survive without rockbox? It makes iRiver different beast altogether.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Be careful with dropping 40G drive into H120 - from memory, when I was active on MisticRiver - H120 case is a little thinner than H140, might have trouble to fit it in physically in. Again, I would double check it on Mistic forums.

 And good luck finding H140 in good nick - they are getting quite rare nowadays.


----------



## paladinca

Has anyone tried AD8620, which is used in SuperMicro IV?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *paladinca* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone tried AD8620, which is used in SuperMicro IV?_

 

I am not sure that the Micro uses that opamp, but yes, I have tried it in the D1 when I was trying to determine which opamp combos to make available for upgrade. It was OK, but I didn't care for it as well as some of the other choices. Other individuals may like it better than I do. 

 I felt that it didn't really have as realistic soundstage and imaging as some of the others, and this, IMO, is as important to realism as tonal accuracy, if not more so.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *paladinca* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone tried AD8620, which is used in SuperMicro IV?_

 

I'm currently using it, along with LM4562s in the buffer slots.

 While this combination is a noticeable improvement over the stock D1 configuration, I'm eagerly awaiting some of the other op-amps that HiFlight and jamato have been rolling.


----------



## HiFlight

I found an opamp that is an upgraded version of the LM4562. Personally, I didn't care as much for the 4562 as some other buffers, but the new LM4562 replacement opamp is warmer, with a much improved soundstage. It works really well as a buffer. 

 I am using the AD746 as L&R amplifier and the LT6234 as the DAC opamp. 

 For those already using the opamps that I have been testing over the past several months, there are several good options that one can combine with the new buffers. 

 I liked this new setup so well that I ordered a bunch of the new opamps while I could still get them. 

 For further details regarding this combo and options, drop me an email or PM.


----------



## HiFlight

For those opamp rollers who might be interested in researching some of the technical specifications of many of the opamps we have mentioned on this and other threads, I am reposting below a list of opamp datasheets I originally posted as a "Sticky" on the Xin forum. 

 *******************************



http://hjem.get2net.dk/tkhifi/data-blade/ad744.pdf AD744
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...eets/AD746.pdf AgnD746 (dual)
http://ist-socrates.berkeley.edu/~ph...iles/ad743.pdf AD743
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...eets/AD746.pdf AD746
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...751AD797_d.pdf AD797
http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/NE5534-D.PDF NE5534
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/opa228.pdf OPA227/228
http://www.uib.es/depart/dfs/GTE/sta...ETT/OPA604.pdf OPA604
http://www.ociw.edu/instrumentation/...rts/OPA627.pdf OPA627
http://www.ociw.edu/instrumentation/ccd/parts/AD829.pdf AD 829
http://www.analog.com/en/prod/0,2877,AD843,00.html AD843
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...eets/AD823.pdf AD823
http://ezphysics.nchu.edu.tw/prophys...eet/lt1028.pdf LT1028
http://www.linear.com/pc/downloadDoc...26,P1293,D1612 LT1115
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/naim/d...mps/ad8610.pdf AD8610
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...156OP275_c.pdf op275 (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/avy7k OP285 (dual)
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...22AD8397_0.pdf AD 8397 (dual)
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/opa2134.pdf OPA134, 2134 (dual)
http://www-micrel.deis.unibo.it/DATA_SHEETS/OPA128.pdf OPA128
http://www.fulcrum.ru/Read/CDROMs/TI...cs/sbos140.pdf OPA2111 (dual)
http://www.ociw.edu/instrumentation/...rts/LT1365.pdf LT 1364 (dual)
http://www.schuro.de/Daten/Burr%20Brown/OPA2107.PDF OPA2107 (dual)
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...D8065_8066.pdf AD8066 (dual)
http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/mm5..._datasheet.pdf AD825
http://tinyurl.com/ya9qbr AD822
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...1-1_4841-2.pdf ADA4841-2 (dual)
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ths4032.pdf THS 4032 (dual)
http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/...ets/AD8599.pdf AD8599 (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/25le6o LT6234 (dual)
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM4562.pdf LM4562 (dual)
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LME49720.pdf LME49720 (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/kpyrz AD8566 (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/j6kz8 AD8616 (6v !) (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/ehwcs AD8656 (6v !) Solid Tube (dual)
http://www.tranzistoare.ro/datasheets2/50/502419_1.pdf LTC6241HV Solid Tube WV (12v) (dual)
http://tinyurl.com/ykfqh5 EL8201 (Buffer) (6v !)
http://tinyurl.com/yh33gc AD8531 (Buffer)
http://tinyurl.com/yelsjy TLV4111 (Buffer)
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/buf634.pdf BUF634 (Buffer)
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LMH6642.pdf LMH6643 (Buffer) (dual)
http://www.asmeltec.de/dl0az/datasheets/HA5002.pdf HA5002 (Buffer)
http://eshop.engineering.uiowa.edu/N...3/DS012336.pdf LM6171 Buffer


----------



## Dexdexter

Hmmm, the phrase "D1 max-out" has a ring of finality to it.

 So Ron, is this the magic cocktail, the whole enchilada, the Holy Grail, the ONE??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Or does the quest continue onward & upward?

 Your adoring public awaits...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best, Dex


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, the phrase "D1 max-out" has a ring of finality to it.

 So Ron, is this the magic cocktail, the whole enchilada, the Holy Grail, the ONE??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Or does the quest continue onward & upward?

 Your adoring public awaits...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best, Dex_

 

While I am very pleased with this combination of opamps, undoubtedly the quest will continue. Not so much for new opamps, but for synergistic combinations of the ones previously tested and mentioned in earlier posts. 

 Even though a particular combination might sound very good to me, other combinations will no doubt sound better to another. So there will never be a "Best" or a "Final" 

 I probably have more opamps on hand now than I should. This project started out small but has grown as I have discovered additional opamps that do justice to the potential of the D1.


----------



## Monster_Omelette

Are there any good DIP opamps for the DAC of the D1? Just wondering since I have no experience soldering anything and I don't have a proper working space to do that kind of stuff.


----------



## yuheng

i just wondering, no body try to put 4562 as DAC/AMP opamp rather than just buffer..


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i just wondering, no body try to put 4562 as DAC/AMP opamp rather than just buffer..




_

 

Yes, I have tried it and it works OK, but IMO there are better choices for the DAC, such as the AD8656, LT6234, LMH6643. All are more lifelike with better imaging.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Monster_Omelette* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there any good DIP opamps for the DAC of the D1? Just wondering since I have no experience soldering anything and I don't have a proper working space to do that kind of stuff._

 


 Yes, check PM.


----------



## HiFlight

It has been enjoyable searching for opamps that can further improve the performance of the very versatile D1, but at this point, I have run thru many different opamps, some of which improve the sound, other which do not. 

 I have about exhausted the possiblilities and resources that I have readily available, and have listed in previous posts those that, in my opinion, are worthwhile improvements. 

 As many have pointed out, my somewhat *fickle* choice of favorites has changed from time to time as I have tried new opamps and combinations of different opamps. One thing that I have discovered is that there is NO one combination that will please all ears. Any of the listed opamps or combinations of listed opamps sound good. There are no bad choices. Some are warmer than others, some more detailed and analytical, some more tube-like. 

 My first consideration has always been sound quality, of which imaging and soundstage play a very important role. I also consider availability, and current draw, as for many, battery life is an important consideration. 

 Also, if one is interested in comparing several different opamp combinations, cost is also a factor. 

 I will more than likely not be trying any new devices, as I have not been able to find any meeting the above criteria that show more potential than the ones listed. I have not made any attempts to use single-channel opamps mounted on Dual to Single adapters due the costs involved and the limited space available on the D1 circuit board. 

 Perhaps this is an area that someone else could pursue, as there are a lot of good single-channel devices available that undoubtedly would work well in the D1, presuming adequate space is available for mounting. 

 I currently have 10 different opamps that I feel significantly improve the sound of the D1, and will, perhaps, play with with some new combinations of these 10 if I manage to catch up with my soldering and mounting projects. 

 I think that many of the opamp combinations that I have discussed previously probably approach the limits of what rolling opamps can accomplish in the D1. 

 Although I have replaced the LR coupling caps with Blackgates in my D1, it is not my intent to continue further modifications of the circuit board, as it does require a measure of skill to avoid damage and will void the D1 warranty. I feel that significant improvement in performance can be realized without the necessity to accomplish risky modifications. 

 I am not trying to discourage anyone from this type of modification, but just want to make it clear that it is should be approached with much caution and one should be willing to accept the possibility of disaster!

 IMO, the D1 with some of these simple opamp updates is capable of matching or exceeding the sonic performance of many highly-regarded amps that cost significantly more money while also offering a number of input/output options that few other amps can match at any price.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Monster_Omelette* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there any good DIP opamps for the DAC of the D1? Just wondering since I have no experience soldering anything and I don't have a proper working space to do that kind of stuff._

 

Do you mind sharing your answers when you find them out? I am in a similar situation.


----------



## Dexdexter

Well done, Ron, it's truly a fascinating journey that you and John (kudos also to Miguel) have embarked upon and a real inspiration for those of us looking to cruise along in your wake!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

But, the LIST IS OUT - see page the 1 updates.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well done, Ron, it's truly a fascinating journey that you and John (kudos also to Miguel) have embarked upon and a real inspiration for those of us looking to cruise along in your wake! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Dex...
 Yes, it has been a fun venture! I am pleased that iBasso has chosen to correspond back and forth as things have progressed. They are truly interested in improving an already fine amp. They have some ideas in the works that will be very innovative. More in due time! 

 Unfortunately, they are hampered in their efforts by the difficulty in getting quality parts, such as opamps, caps, etc. What we take for granted is very hard for them. 

 I have much enjoyed the feedback from those who have tried some of the different configurations that we have discussed in the forum. So far, I have heard from no one who has been dissatisfied with the results of their opamp changes. 

 When I began experimenting with the D1, I had LOTS of opamps on hand from my years of playing with my Xin amps. Some of them worked well in the D1, some didn't, but at least I had a starting point and was fairly familiar with the characteristics of quite a few different opamps so it was a natural evolution to try to improve the D1.

 I can't think of a more enjoyable way to waste endless hours that could probably be utilized more productively!!!!!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well done, Ron, it's truly a fascinating journey that you and John (kudos also to Miguel) have embarked upon and a real inspiration for those of us looking to cruise along in your wake! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

John (Jamato8) and I correspond regularly, comparing notes, etc. John is VERY skilled at accomplishing quite extensive circuit modifications utilizing his in-depth knowledge and electronic experience with capacitors and other hardware devices. His modifications always seem to improve the performance of the stock circuit design. 

 His input has been invaluable both on and off forum. I only wish we were neighbors! 

 Miguel (Mrarroyo) is personally familiar with a vast number of amplifiers and their capabilities as well as limitations. He has probably owned more audio equipment than I could count. It is always fun to get together with him and attempt to defend our own choices of amp configurations! We also correspond regularly.


----------



## Monster_Omelette

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you mind sharing your answers when you find them out? I am in a similar situation._

 

HiFlight suggested either the AD275 or LMH6643.


----------



## zer010gic

How does the output of the

 LTC6241HV L/R
 LMH6643 Buffers
 LMH6643 DAC

 Compare to the

 OPA2111 L/R
 AD8397 Buffers
 AD8656 DAC


 I know its subjective but how is the sound stage and imaging? Also how is the output? With the second combo I was able to get very good hard hitting bass with exceptional volume out of my HD650s. Any other pros and cons when comparing them.


 Corey


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the output of the

 LTC6241HV L/R
 LMH6643 Buffers
 LMH6643 DAC

 Compare to the

 OPA2111 L/R
 AD8397 Buffers
 AD8656 DAC


 I know its subjective but how is the sound stage and imaging? Also how is the output? With the second combo I was able to get very good hard hitting bass with exceptional volume out of my HD650s. Any other pros and cons when comparing them.


 Corey_

 


 The LMH6643 buffers have less impact than the AD8397, and are a little smoother and warmer. IMO, they work very nicely for classical and jazz, 
 whereas the 8397s do a really good job on rock. They also output the most current, although the LMH6643 provide more than enough volume for my HD650s, especially when using the DAC or optical input. 

 The LTC6241HV is a very tube-like sound, with smooth highs and natural bass that doesn't jump at you, but is there when it is supposed to be. 
 Very easy to listen to. 

 The OPA2111 has the largest soundstage, and is an all-around good performer. 

 The AD746 also has a very wide, deep soundstage with very accurate imaging. A very precise and accurate amplifier. It is the only one that gives a true feeling of the sound being wider than the head. It is a great opamp for classical. 

 They are all very good performers, I would hate to have to pick the "best". They are among the best that I have found. If one likes presence and great detail, the LT6234 and ADA4841-2 are also very good choices that have very low noise and extremely low current draw. 

 Decisions..decisions!!! It is difficult to describe sound character of an opamp verbally, but maybe these descriptions will be of some help.


----------



## zer010gic

Do you think that this combo would be good for Rock and have any advantages over the OPA2111.

 AD746 L/R
 AD8397 Buffers
 AD8656 DAC

 Also what difference does there exist with the AD8656 vs LMH6643 as a DAC chip.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zer010gic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you think that this combo would be good for Rock and have any advantages over the OPA2111.

 AD746 L/R
 AD8397 Buffers
 AD8656 DAC

 Also what difference does there exist with the AD8656 vs LMH6643 as a DAC chip._

 

I think that would be a very good rock combination. The LMH6643 has a faster slew rate which is good for transient response and outputs more power than the 8656. Current draw is also about a third less for the 6643.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that would be a very good rock combination. The LMH6643 has a faster slew rate which is good for transient response and outputs more power than the 8656. Current draw is also about a third less for the 6643._

 

What's the sound signature of the AD746?


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the sound signature of the AD746?_

 

Like stated by HiFlight above but with some disagreement. It's very neutral in tonality. Has a "true" soundstage to my ears. On the bad side it lacks some energy and details and in the long run I found it a bit boring. This is the dual version of AD744. AD744 can be connected "compensation pin out", i.e. the internal buffer stage is bypassed and the opamp runs classA. This improves the sound quality, and it becomes more energetic and detailed. You can use two AD744's on a BrownDog adapter. This opamp is used in LISAIII - "the best portable ever". This could also be "the final" opamp of choice in D1
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 Hasn't the DAC in D1 balanced outputs? When are we going to see a balanced D1?


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I have tried it and it works OK, but IMO there are better choices for the DAC, such as the AD8656, LT6234, LMH6643. All are more lifelike with better imaging._

 



 thks for explanation, i will try myself then


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the sound signature of the AD746?_

 

It is the dual version of the AD744 as used in the LaRocco amps. Detailed with superb soundstage and imaging. Very neutral. Nothing is overemphasised. The datasheet specs do not reflect the sound quality of this opamp. The noise specs are higher than most others I have used, but this is not at all apparent in actual use. I do not find it boring in the least.


----------



## HiFlight

Many have as me what method I use to evaluate the performance of various opamps in the D1. Not a big secret, here it is....

 I use about 4 different very high-quality CDs that are played thru the optical out of my CD player to the optical in of the D1. That way, all of the opamps in the D1 are able to be evaluated as a set, so to speak, rather than just focusing on the DAC or amp sections by themselves. 

 I try to select cuts with various intrumentations, especially with lots of transients, such as snares, cymbals, etc. I also use at least several cuts that include female vocalists and applause. I always use at least one cut that has a male vocalist to see if there is unnatural coloration in the higher bass registers. 

 Applause is one of the best sources to get a sense of image and the realism of an actual performance. The volume is set to approximate what I would hear if the performance was attended in person at the distance away that I usually try to sit. 

 Some opamps seem to work better together than others, that is why I try to evaluate the opamp package as an entity rather than focus on individual opamp characteristics. 

 It is useless to try to make meaningful evaluations if using a mediocre sources; for that reason, I always try to use the best player, CDs and cables I have available. 

 When I find a combo that sounds like it has potential for better performance in the D1, I then compare it to my Earmax Pro, Dared MP-5 (both tube) and Xin Reference amps. If it stand up well in these comparisons, I then post the results with my comments as a possible choice for the D1. 

 There have been MANY opamps and combinations of opamps that I have tried that did not meet these criteria so I have not mentioned them on the forum.


----------



## ehlarson

How difficult is this really? I have a pretty good selection of tools in my home shop - bench drlll press, good soldering gear (Weller temperature controlled iron), Optivisor for close in work, some Dremel stuff for smaller work etc. and some experience putting together laboratory instrumentation and building DIY audio kits from the past like the Dynaco stuff that was sold 25 years ago. My electrical engineering is a little fuzzy - it has been a long time since I studied this theory.

 My plan would be to drill out the through holes for the existing caps described in these threads and then replace them with the Black Gates that people have had success with in this thread.

 Any thoughts?


----------



## jirams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How difficult is this really? I have a pretty good selection of tools in my home shop - bench drlll press, good soldering gear (Weller temperature controlled iron), Optivisor for close in work, some Dremel stuff for smaller work etc. and some experience putting together laboratory instrumentation and building DIY audio kits from the past like the Dynaco stuff that was sold 25 years ago. My electrical engineering is a little fuzzy - it has been a long time since I studied this theory.

*My plan would be to drill out the through holes for the existing caps *described in these threads and then replace them with the Black Gates that people have had success with in this thread.

 Any thoughts?_

 

This would destroy any 'through hole plating' of the mounting hole and could cause real problems.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Please don't drill it.

 Why not just desolder the caps?


----------



## souperman

Maybe I missed the post, but I don't seem to be able to find whether there is a big difference between using USB and optical for the D1. I'm currently using it through USB, and I'm thinking about connecting it through optical out of the Micro.

 Also, I lost the adapter of my TBAAM from mini to optical. Would something like this work too? I think this is the same thing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Optical-Toslink-...QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please don't drill it.

 Why not just desolder the caps?_

 

Yes, the caps are desoldered, but because of the very hard solder used in the D1, it is nearly impossible to remove the residue remaining in the holes by using wick, etc. The high temperatures involved will certainly damage the traces. Use of a proper circuitboard drill works very well. I used an appropriately-sized circuitboard bit mounted in a handheld chuck that resembles a mini-screwdriver and the residue carefully drilled out by finger-power. I have experienced no damage whatever to any of the plated holes. 

 It is probably worth mentioning that I have done this type of operation hundreds of times, not always successfully!

 I would suggest practicing on a scrap circuit board that one can pick up from most any TV or computer repair service until the necessary skill and confidence level has been reached; only then will you want to apply your skills to the D1. 

 A good temperature-controlled iron is a necessity, as is the use of a very high-quality solder. My iron tip is a pencil tip with one flat side. 
 I personally use Kester silver solder .020 in diameter. You need a spot of solder on your iron about the size of a pinhead to safely solder one SOIC leg. Any larger and it is likely that 2 legs will be shorted together by a solder bridge.


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is the dual version of the AD744 as used in the LaRocco amps. Detailed with superb soundstage and imaging. Very neutral. Nothing is overemphasised. The datasheet specs do not reflect the sound quality of this opamp. The noise specs are higher than most others I have used, but this is not at all apparent in actual use. I do not find it boring in the least._

 

AD744/46 for sure are noisy, but it's only apparent with IEM's or other extremely sensitive phones. They're the noisiest opamps I've heard. LISAIII and PRII are known to be noisy amps when used with IEM's.

 Use AD746 constantly for a couple of weeks and then tell me it's not boring. The first days I used it, I found it to be the perfect opamp, but then...


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe I missed the post, but I don't seem to be able to find whether there is a big difference between using USB and optical for the D1. I'm currently using it through USB, and I'm thinking about connecting it through optical out of the Micro.

 Also, I lost the adapter of my TBAAM from mini to optical. Would something like this work too? I think this is the same thing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Optical-Toslink-...QQcmdZViewItem_

 

As both USB and optical are digital signals, I hear no difference between the 2 when inputting to the D1. If you are using the TB, you can either feed an analog or digital signal to the D1, but the USB directly out of your PC to the D1 is a higher quality signal than that processed by the TB even via the optical. The TB is not an audiophile-quality DAC. 

 I would suggest just going straight to the D1 USB input via one of your computer USB ports and avoid going thru an extra unnecessary device, unless you are using the TB equalizer software. 

 If your cable is toslink-toslink, the adapter shown in your link above will work. The D1 input is toslink. The output of the TB, most CD players, and the iriver H120/140 is mini.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_AD744/46 for sure are noisy, but it's only apparent with IEM's or other extremely sensitive phones. They're the noisiest opamps I've heard. LISAIII and PRII are known to be noisy amps when used with IEM's.

 Use AD746 constantly for a couple of weeks and then tell me it's not boring. The first days I used it, I found it to be the perfect opamp, but then..._

 

I have used the AD744 both bypassed for Class-A output or without bypassing for a couple of years using my circumaural as well as my Westone and ER IEMs. I never experienced hiss or audible noise problems with any of these configurations. Datasheet specs do not always relate to audible performance. Much also depends on other circuit design factors as well as the opamps when considering hiss or noise issues. 


 Even after this period of time spend with the AD744/746, I personally do not find it boring. YMMV!

 If one places noise specifications above all else, the LT6234, ADA4841-2 and AD8599 are all extremely low-noise, with input noise densities less than 2 nV/SqRt/HZ. That in itself does not, however, automatically make them the best choice for overall audio performance. Good, yes, absolute best..no.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I would suggest practicing on a scrap circuit board that one can pick up from most any TV or computer repair service until the necessary skill and confidence level has been reached; only then will you want to apply your skills to the D1. _

 

Good idea about practicing with a scrap board. I have a box of old PC cards from my computer upgrades and builds that will be just the thing. 

 As far as SOIC soldering I find application of a wick to the tops of the legs results in a good looking joint with no possibility of bridges.

 I've been generally using a 0.020 Kester lead/tin eutectic. I can see though the lower melting point of the silver fomulations would be very good for this kind of work. I will have to get some.


----------



## powertoold

Hello, I listen to a lot of classical music and would like to know if the D1 adds any static or hiss to the recording when using a sensitive IEM. Does anyone use the D1 with the E500 and classical music? When you plug in the IEM without a source connected, is there any audible hiss?

 I don't think the D1 has a low gain option, and the default gain is 6dB, so I am worried it will cause a lot of static.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As both USB and optical are digital signals, I hear no difference between the 2 when inputting to the D1. If you are using the TB, you can either feed an analog or digital signal to the D1, but the USB directly out of your PC to the D1 is a higher quality signal than that processed by the TB even via the optical. The TB is not an audiophile-quality DAC. 

 I would suggest just going straight to the D1 USB input via one of your computer USB ports and avoid going thru an extra unnecessary device, unless you are using the TB equalizer software. 

 If your cable is toslink-toslink, the adapter shown in your link above will work. The D1 input is toslink. The output of the TB, most CD players, and the iriver H120/140 is mini._

 

I'll stick with USB then. Thanks!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

(trying to post from cell, sorry if the error causes a duplicate post)

 I've posted many of these before as test music, but not listed all in the same place. 

 I MOST like Arne Domnerus "Jazz at the Pawnshop" for the great recording mastering, applause and small live venue with clinking dishes and talkers, with accoustic instruments lke drums bass piano vibraphone sax clarinet - all of which if the source, amp and phones do their job will help you "be there" in the moment.

 I also use Tord Gustavsen "Being There" for the drum solo in "Karmosin" and more piano/string bass elsewhere.

 I listen to The Rippingtons "20th Anniversary" to get a feel for bass impact and quickness of response to snappy music.

 Dianna Krall "Girl in the Other Room" for female voice and piano in a small venue or intimate studio, and "Live in Paris" for a Female vocal in large venue with ambience.

 Jack Johnson "In Between Dreams" for male vocals and acoustic guitar.

 "Lord of the Rings Return of the King" soundtrack for classical with good bass (sometime's Sibellius Kullervo) and occ Christopher Hogwood condcting Handel's Messiah for soundstage and presence in a large venue (with poor bass). 

 Picking Rock is harder, and I'll usually test with U2 "Achtung Baby", Boys Like Girls "The Great Escape, and Good Charlotte "Good Morning Revival", and Dave Matthews & Tim Reynolds "Live at Radio City".

 Larry


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Many have as me what method I use to evaluate the performance of various opamps in the D1. Not a big secret, here it is....

 I use about 4 different very high-quality CDs that are played thru the optical out of my CD player to the optical in of the D1. That way, all of the opamps in the D1 are able to be evaluated as a set, so to speak, rather than just focusing on the DAC or amp sections by themselves. 

 I try to select cuts with various intrumentations, especially with lots of transients, such as snares, cymbals, etc. I also use at least several cuts that include female vocalists and applause. I always use at least one cut that has a male vocalist to see if there is unnatural coloration in the higher bass registers. 

 Applause is one of the best sources to get a sense of image and the realism of an actual performance. The volume is set to approximate what I would hear if the performance was attended in person at the distance away that I usually try to sit. 

 Some opamps seem to work better together than others, that is why I try to evaluate the opamp package as an entity rather than focus on individual opamp characteristics. 

 It is useless to try to make meaningful evaluations if using a mediocre sources; for that reason, I always try to use the best player, CDs and cables I have available. 

 When I find a combo that sounds like it has potential for better performance in the D1, I then compare it to my Earmax Pro, Dared MP-5 (both tube) and Xin Reference amps. If it stand up well in these comparisons, I then post the results with my comments as a possible choice for the D1. 

 There have been MANY opamps and combinations of opamps that I have tried that did not meet these criteria so I have not mentioned them on the forum._


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello, I listen to a lot of classical music and would like to know if the D1 adds any static or hiss to the recording when using a sensitive IEM. Does anyone use the D1 with the E500 and classical music? When you plug in the IEM without a source connected, is there any audible hiss?

 I don't think the D1 has a low gain option, and the default gain is 6dB, so I am worried it will cause a lot of static._

 

I have tried most all of the latest opamp combos with my Westone UM2, ER4P/S, and Atrios. None of them have exhibited any audible hiss or noise. 

 It is a very quiet amp.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

You can get the toslink to mini optical adapter at

www.sysconcept.ca (or is it sysconcepts)

 They have that same adapter, and make high quality custom cables built to length and tip request. But as Ron says, that is a digital optical tip, not analog.


----------



## paladinca

Can D1 be used as DAC/Pre-amp combo, connecting to a power-amp, in a home setup? Does it perform well? Thanks in advance.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *paladinca* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can D1 be used as DAC/Pre-amp combo, connecting to a power-amp, in a home setup? Does it perform well? Thanks in advance._

 

Yes, the D1 does have that ability. Whether it performs well is a pretty subjective thing - but I'd say that for the money it would be hard to beat.


----------



## sum1

If i have a noisy usb on my laptop will it also create noise on the D1 output??? or is it good enough to somehow filter those noise?


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If i have a noisy usb on my laptop will it also create noise on the D1 output??? or is it good enough to somehow filter those noise?_

 

No, I imagine you will find the noisy usb is the weak link in the chain.


----------



## sum1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, I imagine you will find the noisy usb is the weak link in the chain._

 

Sorry abit confused there.
 So an external DAC like the Ibasso D1 will not save me from internal noise of my laptop?


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry abit confused there.
 So an external DAC like the Ibasso D1 will not save me from internal noise of my laptop?_

 

I do not believe so. In IT we have a saying Garbage In, Garbage out and I believe it would apply in this case. A noisy digital signal is just going to be converted to noisy analog that is then amplified to wind up as amplified noise. 

 If you know somebody that has a D1 I'd try one first if noisy output from your USB is a deal breaker. The other alternative is to replace the laptop/get it fixed.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do not believe so. In IT we have a saying Garbage In, Garbage out and I believe it would apply in this case. A noisy digital signal is just going to be converted to noisy analog that is then amplified to wind up as amplified noise. 

 If you know somebody that has a D1 I'd try one first if noisy output from your USB is a deal breaker. The other alternative is to replace the laptop/get it fixed._

 

There was a fair amout of discussion earlier in the thread regarding noisy outputs from laptops. IIRC, there was the suggestion that a hub might be beneficial. I think there was a solution that worked. I might be worth a search back thru the thread to find out what worked. 

 I didn't pay a great deal of attention to the details, as my laptop USB is fine, just the analog headphone output is of poor quality. My D1, however, sounds great from my PC USB.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do not believe so. In IT we have a saying Garbage In, Garbage out and I believe it would apply in this case. A noisy digital signal is just going to be converted to noisy analog that is then amplified to wind up as amplified noise. 

 If you know somebody that has a D1 I'd try one first if noisy output from your USB is a deal breaker. The other alternative is to replace the laptop/get it fixed._

 

Uh... I don't think that's correct. The DAC part should take care of the noise. After all, it's just 1's and 0's streaming into the D1.


----------



## sum1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you know somebody that has a D1 I'd try one first if noisy output from your USB is a deal breaker. The other alternative is to replace the laptop/get it fixed._

 

Hmm yeah i'll see if i can try the ibasso D1 with my laptop in the Sydney meet this weekend.

 Well from Skylabs thread about the D1 it seems like the D1 is at least less noisy than the MOVE with the USB input so it might not be that bad.

 I have tried MOVE and it is pretty noisy on my laptop but not on my desktop but the weird thing is that TBAAM produces no noise even on my laptop's noisy usb.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Uh... I don't think that's correct. The DAC part should take care of the noise. After all, it's just 1's and 0's streaming into the D1._

 

I assume that the OP has listened to another USB output device to determine the USB is noisy otherwise how would one arrive at that conclusion? Something is injecting noise that the DAC conversion is picking up and passing on. If the other USB device didn't clean up the noise what is going to make this DAC magically clean up the mess? 

 Like you say, its just one and zeros, so if there's garbage coming out, the garbage must have come in to begin with.

 EDIT: as our replies overlap... Strange situation where the laptop is good and bad with different USB, and move is good and bad with different computers. Sounds like you will be lucky with the D1 or not. There's not a good handle on why things work sometimes and not others.

 EDIT EDIT: I guess it is possible the USB is putting out fluctuating power as a underpowered digital device can generate strange behavior. So the signal could come it good but undervoltage to the DAC circuitry may cause it to stomp on the output. Does the TBAMM DAC run off the laptop USB voltage or does it use its own power?

 If the laptop generates dirty power on USB, is it when its plugged into the wall or running on battery only, or both? Any other devices being powered by the USB that might be drawing power off the USB bus irregularly?


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I assume that the OP has listened to another USB output device to determine the USB is noisy otherwise how would one arrive at that conclusion? Something is injecting noise that the DAC conversion is picking up and passing on. If the other USB device didn't clean up the noise what is going to make this DAC magically clean up the mess? 

 Like you say, its just one and zeros, so if there's garbage coming out, the garbage must have come in to begin with.

 EDIT: as our replies overlap... Strange situation where the laptop is good and bad with different USB, and move is good and bad with different computers. Sounds like you will be lucky with the D1 or not. There's not a good handle on why things work sometimes and not others._

 

Oh, okay. My mistake. I didn't know his USB sockets might be damaged.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm yeah i'll see if i can try the ibasso D1 with my laptop in the Sydney meet this weekend.

 Well from Skylabs thread about the D1 it seems like the D1 is at least less noisy than the MOVE with the USB input so it might not be that bad.

 I have tried MOVE and it is pretty noisy on my laptop but not on my desktop but the weird thing is that TBAAM produces no noise even on my laptop's noisy usb._

 

If your Turtle Beach filters the noise to your satisfaction, you could always run a mini-toslink cable from the TB optical out to the D1 optical in.


----------



## sum1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If your Turtle Beach filters the noise to your satisfaction, you could always run a mini-toslink cable from the TB optical out to the D1 optical in._

 

True, i can always do that.
 My guess is that the ibasso D1 does not have this noise issue because it seems like no one in this thread complains about them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 when compared to the MOVE thread where there are a few people who have this issue. Even Skylab mention about this issue as well with the MOVE in his DAC/AMP comparison thread.

 Maybe its because the way the ibasso works (USB-> SPDIF->D/A receiver->DAC) when compared to the move where its DAC act as the usb receiver as well ???


----------



## Capunk

I just receive OP275 from ron, but he mention this as "AD275" does this item totally different thing or same? 

 Can I use this as replacement for DAC opamp?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_True, i can always do that.
 My guess is that the ibasso D1 does not have this noise issue because it seems like no one in this thread complains about them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 when compared to the MOVE thread where there are a few people who have this issue. Even Skylab mention about this issue as well with the MOVE in his DAC/AMP comparison thread.

 Maybe its because the way the ibasso works (USB-> SPDIF->D/A receiver->DAC) when compared to the move where its DAC act as the usb receiver as well ???_

 

I'm not much of an expert, but it could be that the MOVE is run off USB power, but the D1 is run off of power supply. Anybody correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Do you guys test amp noise with a source connected or without?

 It just occured to me that if a source is connected (and especially if source is turned on and paused), that the hiss is from the source, not the amp. But, do some amps suppress that hiss better than others?


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My guess is that the ibasso D1 does not have this noise issue because it seems like no one in this thread complains about them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 when compared to the MOVE thread where there are a few people who have this issue. Even Skylab mention about this issue as well with the MOVE in his DAC/AMP comparison thread._

 

Can you describe these noise issues--is it
 static,
 background hum,
 pops in the same section of music when repeated,
 random pops in different places,
 distortion at certain frequency ranges,
 clicks,
 something else?

 Are you touching the cables/moving the amp or volume pot when it happens?

 I'm really trying hard to duplicate this problem.


----------



## sum1

i dont really know how to explain it but its a sound of an interference. The noise that i got with the MOVE is exactly the same noise i got from most computer's integrated sound. Its like an electrical whining noise. I can hear the noise just by plugging my headphone to the amp without it playing any music at all. The problem is my laptop (HP NC6000) and other similar laptop's usb port is near its monitor and for some reason the LCD is interfering with it. If i close my laptop to turn off the lcd then this noise will just dissapear. 

 It is more likely to occur in laptops since all those parts are cramped together in a small space. I cant replicate this on my desktop. If you cant replicate it then chances are the D1 is probably immune to this issue or your laptop is designed pretty good


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i dont really know how to explain it but its a sound of an interference. The noise that i got with the MOVE is exactly the same noise i got from most computer's integrated sound. Its like an electrical whining noise.

 It is more likely to occur in laptops since all those parts are cramped together in a small space. I cant replicate this on my desktop. If you cant replicate it then chances are the D1 is probably immune to this issue._

 

I have two laptop (home, work), an apple mini, D1 and move and haven't been able to pinpoint it yet with any combination. The electrical whining description is great, at least I'll know what to listen for.

 So this noise is a constant pitch whining then, and I assume it doesn't change in frequency or volume, just a constant sound? Do you hear it only on soft passages or is it readily found even in louder passages?

 Thanks


----------



## sum1

yeah its pretty much a constant pitch whining. 
 The only way for me to get rid of it is to turn off the laptops LCD. Changing the LCD brightness will also affect the pitch of this noise.

 Its pretty low in volume so if i put on a music then chances are i cant hear it since it drowned out with the music unless when i'm hearing like a podcast or something which doesnt have instruments on its background.


----------



## Gosbig

I am using a Xenos 0HA (It was 50 dollars a year ago and they dont make them anymore I dont think) portable amp currently to power my HD 650's. Would I be able to use the D1 in the same way, as the only link between source(source is primarily a soundblaster card and occasionally an ipod) and cans? Would this be a good upgrade to my system for the price?


----------



## darkswordsman17

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Gosbig* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am using a Xenos 0HA (It was 50 dollars a year ago and they dont make them anymore I dont think) portable amp currently to power my HD 650's. Would I be able to use the D1 in the same way, as the only link between source(source is primarily a soundblaster card and occasionally an ipod) and cans? Would this be a good upgrade to my system for the price?_

 

Yeah, you should be able to. You might check and see if doing USB out is better or worse than through say SPDIF out of the SoundBlaster (which I believe has digital out). You'll want a mini to mini cable or better a line out dock to mini cable for the iPod (since you'll have to plug it into the analog input which is a mini connection on the D2). 

 I can't say for sure that it will be better than your previous amp (especially considering I'm not familiar with it at all), but with there seem to have been some pretty big strides in the development of low-to-midrange portables over the last couple of years, so I would guess that you'll be plenty happy with it.


----------



## paladinca

Just received the following message from iBasso:

  Quote:


 Thank you for your concern.
 D1 will back in stock on this weekend, please visit our website this weekend.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio


----------



## powertoold

They've been saying that for the last month, lol.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They've been saying that for the last month, lol._

 

Don't worry. They are shipping orders now, which means the have the enclosures, which means once they get the tons for orders they have out, they will put them back up for sale.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They've been saying that for the last month, lol._

 

True, but they shipped me one a couple of days ago, so it looks like they are at least in production again and clearing the back orders. 

 This one will be 2nd - for home and modding.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Gosbig* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am using a Xenos 0HA (It was 50 dollars a year ago and they dont make them anymore I dont think) portable amp currently to power my HD 650's. Would I be able to use the D1 in the same way, as the only link between source(source is primarily a soundblaster card and occasionally an ipod) and cans? Would this be a good upgrade to my system for the price?_

 

I wouldn't even bother going through the soundblaster. IMO, the D1 beats out the soundblaster as a "sound card" just without the different options Soundblaster provides.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just receive OP275 from ron, but he mention this as "AD275" does this item totally different thing or same? 

 Can I use this as replacement for DAC opamp?_

 

The same...my mistake!


----------



## souperman

Hey Ron, have you found that the LMH6643 works best for you in the DAC socket? Seems like it is after reading your earlier posts again.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yeah its pretty much a constant pitch whining. 
 The only way for me to get rid of it is to turn off the laptops LCD. Changing the LCD brightness will also affect the pitch of this noise.

 Its pretty low in volume so if i put on a music then chances are i cant hear it since it drowned out with the music unless when i'm hearing like a podcast or something which doesnt have instruments on its background._

 

That doesn't sound good at all. Have you tried one of the USB-mini connector with one of those cylindrical chokes (or whatever they are called) at the end to see if that would clean up the signal? I'll take a picture of one if you don't know what I mean.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Do you guys have a 470uf cap at c81?

 I was comparing my D1 to the pics on the first page and I see minor differences in a few parts. (same design but looks like a few very minor parts are different).


----------



## Schalldampfer

Is there anyway to gut out the amp section for a clean signal to an external amp?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there anyway to gut out the amp section for a clean signal to an external amp?_

 

Sure, just plug in a mini-mini cable into the Aux out/in and run it to your exterior amp. That will bypass the amp section. No need to chop it up.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Ron, have you found that the LMH6643 works best for you in the DAC socket? Seems like it is after reading your earlier posts again._

 

I would not necessarily say that it works best, as several opamps work well in the DAC socket. Both the AD8656 and LT6234 work very well. There is nothing wrong with the LMH6643 either. Slight detail differences between them, as well as power requirements. The LT6234 has the lowest noise and lowest current draw, but specs don't always relate to sound. 

 I am currently using the LT6234 but switch back and forth when evaluating other opamp combos as they all work together as an entity. At this level of performance, it take a good ear to discern ANY difference between them, as the differences are in the nuances of the music. 

 I can't advise which would sound best to you. You need to try them and draw your own conclusions, based upon the type of music you enjoy and the phones you most often use.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

I can't find the bass 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I tried stock and then switched to opa2111 and lm4562 (buff).
 Thought it was my h120 so I switched to usb..

 No depth or punch. I can get my er4p thumping with rockbox EQ.

 And I doubt new opamps (don't have yet) will change the bass dramatically. 

 If I can get any bass I will be a very happy camper.


----------



## sum1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That doesn't sound good at all. Have you tried one of the USB-mini connector with one of those cylindrical chokes (or whatever they are called) at the end to see if that would clean up the signal? I'll take a picture of one if you don't know what I mean._

 

I dont really know what that means but i did try it with another usb cable and its the same thing. Based on the MOVE thread this problem can be fixed by getting an external powered hub but to me that would just kill the portability even more. I'll just see if i can try an ibasso this weekend and check it myself if the problem is still there it doesnt really bother me since the volume is pretty low and its not really evident on a full size headphone but you can hear it clearly on an low impedance/sensitive earphones.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't find the bass 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I tried stock and then switched to opa2111 and lm4562 (buff).
 Thought it was my h120 so I switched to usb..

 No depth or punch. I can get my er4p thumping with rockbox EQ.

 And I doubt new opamps (don't have yet) will change the bass dramatically. 

 If I can get any bass I will be a very happy camper._

 

The opa2111 and lm4562 combo are not supposed to have very much punch. Those two are for wide soundstage and depth. The AD8397's buffer is punchier, and the AD8099 in LR. If you can't find the punch in the D1 in that config, you won't find punch in any amps IMO. I used to have a PPA which is a punchy amp, and the D1 delivers that bass punch with the above mentioned combo.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure, just plug in a mini-mini cable into the Aux out/in and run it to your exterior amp. That will bypass the amp section. No need to chop it up._

 

Oh... so that means unlimited amp upgrade potential as long as the DAC can support it?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The opa2111 and lm4562 combo are not supposed to have very much punch. Those two are for wide soundstage and depth. The AD8397's buffer is punchier, and the AD8099 in LR. If you can't find the punch in the D1 in that config, you won't find punch in any amps IMO. I used to have a PPA which is a punchy amp, and the D1 delivers that bass punch with the above mentioned combo._

 

Yeah, I have big soundstage and great detail. Treble extension is good too. Works nice for classical.

 I have ad8397 next to me but I am waiting for some browndogs. Also hopefully the tubey opamps come in soon.

 I replaced a couple caps so far (muse ES) and it seemed to give it a touch of warmth.


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I dont really know what that means but i did try it with another usb cable and its the same thing. Based on the MOVE thread this problem can be fixed by getting an external powered hub but to me that would just kill the portability even more. I'll just see if i can try an ibasso this weekend and check it myself if the problem is still there it doesnt really bother me since the volume is pretty low and its not really evident on a full size headphone but you can hear it clearly on an low impedance/sensitive earphones._

 

Searched for the product and they are called ferrite chokes. Sometimes they loop the cable around the ferrite core once or twice to improve it's functionality. Anyway, some USB cables have them built-in.

 Here's a link with a snap-on ferrite choke for existing cables:
vendor ferrite choke

Wikipedia ferrite bead writeup

 There's no guarantee it will work but you may get lucky and have it solve your problem.


----------



## paladinca

Ron, could you describe the difference in sound characteristic between LMH6643 , LM4562, and the upgraded version of the LM4562 as buffers? Thanks.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't find the bass 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I tried stock and then switched to opa2111 and lm4562 (buff).
 Thought it was my h120 so I switched to usb..

 No depth or punch. I can get my er4p thumping with rockbox EQ.

 And I doubt new opamps (don't have yet) will change the bass dramatically. 

 If I can get any bass I will be a very happy camper._

 

Where are you at on the burn-in? IME, bass starts to more fully form around 200 hours and continues to refine well past 400 hours.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where are you at on the burn-in? IME, bass starts to more fully form around 200 hours and continues to refine well past 400 hours._

 

I have it burning in right now 
 but so far I have about an hour on it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 399 to go..


----------



## ehlarson

There are some single op amps available that are not available in dual formats that seem to have a good reputation. 

 With the availability of an adapter like this:

http://www.cimarrontechnology.com/in...PROD&ProdID=24

 it seems feasible to use these in the D1. I am wondering if anyone has some experience with the potential benefits of these single op amps, and what the pitfalls might be.


----------



## souperman

oops.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *paladinca* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ron, could you describe the difference in sound characteristic between LMH6643 , LM4562, and the upgraded version of the LM4562 as buffers? Thanks._

 

No, it is very hard for me to describe such subtle differences in soundstage and shading. 

 Perhaps the LMH6643 might be a little warmer than the LM4562. The improved LM sounds similar but better all around than the LM4562. Not as sterile sounding. 

 Any of the 3 would be hard to tell apart unless you compare them side-by-side with the same music and same equipment.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *itsborken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Searched for the product and they are called ferrite chokes. Sometimes they loop the cable around the ferrite core once or twice to improve it's functionality. Anyway, some USB cables have them built-in.

 Here's a link with a snap-on ferrite choke for existing cables:
vendor ferrite choke

Wikipedia ferrite bead writeup

 There's no guarantee it will work but you may get lucky and have it solve your problem._

 



 Ferrite chokes will not work for noise such as you describe. They work at RF frequencies, not audible frequencies. I have used a variety of ferrite chokes with my amateur radio equipment with good results, but the frequencies involved were MUCH higher than than the audible range. 

 I don't recall this issue being a problem with the D1, perhaps I am mistaken, but I think most of the issues involved the Move.


----------



## powertoold

Ok, so I tried my roommate's D1, but I hear some line noise on my SF5Pros when nothing is connected. Does this line noise go away if I changed the opamps on the unit, or will I have to deal with it?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, so I tried my roommate's D1, but I hear some line noise on my SF5Pros when nothing is connected. Does this line noise go away if I changed the opamps on the unit, or will I have to deal with it?_

 

I get no noise, except with put through usb, then there is a very slight hiss.

 What are you playing your music off of (comp/iriver/ext)?

 Chances are you may have to live with it if it's a noisy usb. Although, if it is the D1 itself then you may have to send it in for repair as it should be making no noise.


----------



## powertoold

No, when no inputs are connected (no usb, etc.), there is hiss.


----------



## yuheng

if i m not mistaken, USB connection will be like tat


----------



## powertoold

Keep in mind that I am using a really sensitive IEM SF5Pro.

 I want to know if changing opamps will decrease the default hiss in any way?


----------



## luidge

I also get strong noise, it is when it is connected to the wallwart and i apply a little pressure on the D1. Then i get strong noise if i remove, say my H140, then it become silent again. Don't know what cause this, it is sort of annoying but not major.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, it is very hard for me to describe such subtle differences in soundstage and shading. 

 Perhaps the LMH6643 might be a little warmer than the LM4562. The improved LM sounds similar but better all around than the LM4562. Not as sterile sounding. 

 Any of the 3 would be hard to tell apart unless you compare them side-by-side with the same music and same equipment._

 

What are the new LM4562's called? Or have they completely replaced the old LM4562's?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have it burning in right now 
 but so far I have about an hour on it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 399 to go.._

 

Ah, still very much in its infancy, then. Relax and enjoy the metamorphosis!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What are the new LM4562's called? Or have they completely replaced the old LM4562's?_

 

LME49720

 I have 2 on the way...


----------



## Sieg9198

I thought both 49720 and 4562 is a totally different thing??


----------



## yuheng

yeah, it have both different signature


----------



## Capunk

Finally, today my LM4562 arrived... (after 1 month wait) 
 and awaiting for AD8656 from Ron 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 But OPA2111/LM4562 produce more depth, clarity and wider soundstage. But I notice something different from previous combination, OPA2111 + NE5532 (Stock Buffer), which is higher bass control, LM4562 simply lack of bass punch? they're ok - but not enough imo. 

 So AD8397 is the best buffer for better bass impact?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finally, today my LM4562 arrived... (after 1 month wait) 
 and awaiting for AD8656 from Ron 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But OPA2111/LM4562 produce more depth, clarity and wider soundstage. But I notice something different from previous combination, OPA2111 + NE5532 (Stock Buffer), which is higher bass control, LM4562 simply lack of bass punch? they're ok - but not enough imo. 

 So AD8397 is the best buffer for better bass impact?_

 

I think it depends upon what you are driving but the 8397 is going to offer more current and should give you better bass and slam. The AD746 should also be nice in the buffer section.


----------



## kiwirugby

Lots and lots of talk about mods to the D1, but may I please intrude and ask those with longer burn in time than me about when the bass opens up more or if it does? I know, I know.....BORING!!!

 This is what I have going: Sony D-EJ2000 --> Sysconcept mini-Toslink --> D1 (stock; about 1 o'clock) --> DT880. Listening to classcial, wide, clear open top, good mids, great soundstage but weaker bass and a tad muddy.

 I may have about 30 hours total burn in. Not much I know. I have to work less!

 Okay, back to opamps and buffers.....sorry!


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kiwirugby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Lots and lots of talk about mods to the D1, but may I please intrude and ask those with longer burn in time than me about when the bass opens up more or if it does? I know, I know.....BORING!!!

 This is what I have going: Sony D-EJ2000 --> Sysconcept mini-Toslink --> D1 (stock; about 1 o'clock) --> DT880. Listening to classcial, wide, clear open top, good mids, great soundstage but weaker bass and a tad muddy.

 I may have about 30 hours total burn in. Not much I know. I have to work less!

 Okay, back to opamps and buffers.....sorry!_

 

The caps need to form, system needs to settle, the bass will get cleaner, deeper and lower mids will improve. Just gotta give it time.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The caps need to form, system needs to settle, the bass will get cleaner, deeper and lower mids will improve. Just gotta give it time._

 

Thanks. Just needed the assurance...re-assurance! I need to find a better way to burn it in than just listening!

 Looks like more are shipping so the contribution to this thread should go nuts!


----------



## Monster_Omelette

Sorry if this is off-topic, but I noticed that my D1 doesn't have the larger screw at the back of the unit. Wonder if it was a design change or if they simply forgot; then again, both the USB cable and AC adapter supplied originally have died on me, luckily, a replacement AC adapter is on-route.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Monster_Omelette* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry if this is off-topic, but I noticed that my D1 doesn't have the larger screw at the back of the unit. Wonder if it was a design change or if they simply forgot; then again, both the USB cable and AC adapter supplied originally have died on me, luckily, a replacement AC adapter is on-route._

 

Is yours new?


----------



## Monster_Omelette

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is yours new?_

 

Not particularly, been using it since 21st of September. Just noticed the screw after comparing mine with jamato8's.


----------



## powertoold

I revoke my comment about the D1 noise. With opamp changes, the noise out of the amp and DAC are virtually nonexistent with IEMs.


----------



## Schalldampfer

I can't wait!


----------



## powertoold

If I wanted to burn in the AMP and DAC at the same time, I would just use the optical input?


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I wanted to burn in the AMP and DAC at the same time, I would just use the optical input?_

 

Yes, if that's the DAC input you intend to use most often.


----------



## Yukon Trooper

I think the new LM4562's are the LME49860's. You can get them as free samples as well.


----------



## mapstec

kiwirugby,

 you said that you are listening at 1 o'clock to have decent volume.
 It seems you have older, high resistance DT880s.

 I have bad news for you: at least in stock configuration it will not get much better! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have a pair of DT880s and I need to crank the D1 to get halfway decent volume and if I plug in for example my Ultrasone Proline after listening to the Beyer Dynamics and I do not change the volume the result is deafening...

 Maybe the AD8397 as buffer can really drive the DT880s.

 I have a MicroTube as well, and that has no problem with the DTs, on there they even have bass, in contrast to the result on the D1.

 I will get the AD8397 as buffers sometime soon and then I will be able to report if in this configuration the D1 is able to really drive the DTs.


----------



## Capunk

So this combination is the best for crank up the bass dynamic, so it would be suitable for rock & bassy music?

 AD8656 (DAC)
 AD746 x 2 (Buffer)
 OPA2111 (LR) 

 I seen from Xin forum before, someone mention better opamp than 8656, which output more power and it has its own built in buffer.
 anyone know that?


----------



## paladinca

I found an article about LM4562-related opamps:

http://www.edn.com/blog/1700000170/post/790011279.html


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Wow! I replaced all of the stock brown bi-polar caps with 22uf ELNA silmic II's and replaced the stock blue ELNA's with 47uf ELNA caffeine. 

 I didn't expect such a big difference in SQ! I don't know if it's better quality caps or doubled the uf (or both) 

 But the biggest difference was in the vocals. They sound so sharp and sweet.

 I don't know if that is the right choice of words but a very close comparison would be the difference between 192kbps track and flac (same song).


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So this combination is the best for crank up the bass dynamic, so it would be suitable for rock & bassy music?

 AD8656 (DAC)
 AD746 x 2 (Buffer)
 OPA2111 (LR) 

 I seen from Xin forum before, someone mention better opamp than 8656, which output more power and it has its own built in buffer.
 anyone know that?_

 

That, or sub the AD746 for the AD8397 like originally done by Jamato8. Jamato used the AD8066 for LR while HiFlight and mraroyo went for the OPA2111 originally. I've combined the best of the two. Although, I haven't tried the 8066 yet, or the LM4562 yet. I have those, but am waiting for the LME49720 and AD746 AD6234 and AD6241-HV to arrive first.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mapstec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_kiwirugby,

 you said that you are listening at 1 o'clock to have decent volume.
 It seems you have older, high resistance DT880s.

 I have bad news for you: at least in stock configuration it will not get much better! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I have a pair of DT880s and I need to crank the D1 to get halfway decent volume and if I plug in for example my Ultrasone Proline after listening to the Beyer Dynamics and I do not change the volume the result is deafening..._

 

You're absolutely correct, mapstec. I am not sure that cranking more for the 880s would really impact overall SQ. That's too bad about stock not getting any better. However, I hope jamato is right that there will be some improvement.

 Big left turn here....if I want to hook my Mac G4 laptop to the D1, does the G4 have an optical out (I believe the MacBook Pro does), and, if so, do I use my mini-Toslink cable or USB?


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kiwirugby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Big left turn here....if I want to hook my Mac G4 laptop to the D1, does the G4 have an optical out (I believe the MacBook Pro does), and, if so, do I use my mini-Toslink cable or USB?_

 

The first PowerBook to have s/pdif out was the last one, introduced in October 2005. If you've got it, you're probably better off with the optical connection to the D1 because the digital signal won't then require translation to s/pdif by the D1's USB receiver chip.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow! I replaced all of the stock brown bi-polar caps with 22uf ELNA silmic II's and replaced the stock blue ELNA's with 47uf ELNA caffeine. 

 I didn't expect such a big difference in SQ! I don't know if it's better quality caps or doubled the uf (or both) 

 But the biggest difference was in the vocals. They sound so sharp and sweet.

 I don't know if that is the right choice of words but a very close comparison would be the difference between 192kbps track and flac (same song)._

 

Is this easy to do?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is this easy to do?_

 

Not a real easy question to answer; an appendectomy is not difficult for a general surgeon, but would be very difficult for me. Likewise, if one is comfortable removing small circuit board components that are attached using a very hard solder, cleaning up the holes, and installing the new components without damaging the foil traces, it is not a difficult job. 

 If you do not have a fair amount of experience with this sort of project or the proper equipment, I would say that it would be a difficult job to accomplish without damage. Be aware that board modifications will void your warranty, whereas rolling opamps will not.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is this easy to do?_

 

If you have to ask...


----------



## mrarroyo

The AD8397 will provide: High linear output current 
 310 mA peak into 32 Ω on ±12 V supplies while maintaining -80 dBc SFDR. You can find the rest of the specifications at: http://www.analog.com/en/prod/0,,759_786_AD8397,00.html

 The above indicates it should have plenty of drive for cans like the Grado and other low impedence cans.


----------



## HiFlight

I would be quite interested in getting feedback from those of you who have tried some of the new opamp combos. Please email or PM me with your comments and current favorites and I will try to compile them and post the results.


----------



## bpfiguer

What is the difference between the LME49720 and the LME49860 besides the voltage? Which is better for the buffers of the iBasso D1?

 Thanks


----------



## egdivle

Hi,
 So the D1 is available again at the ibasso website. Does anyone know if this is the new revised version? Or is it the same as the first batch?
 Cheers, Andy


----------



## Dual

Original version D1. The updated version should be sometime next month.

 They are both practically the same just different opamps.


----------



## souperman

I don't understand the need to wait for the new D1. You should probably be rolling opamps regardless to find the sound you like best.


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The AD8397 will provide: High linear output current 
 310 mA peak into 32 Ω on ±12 V supplies while maintaining -80 dBc SFDR. You can find the rest of the specifications at: http://www.analog.com/en/prod/0,,759_786_AD8397,00.html

 The above indicates it should have plenty of drive for cans like the Grado and other low impedence cans._

 

Has anyone measured the voltage provided by the D1 at the op amp power supply rail pins? What voltage does it provide. This would help us access what op amps will work best in here. Sorry if this info was posted already, I don't recall seeing it. I am waiting on my new D1 still. Just re-ordered it as it is back in stock now. I have some OPA627 op amps and some AD825 op amps which are working excellent in my Practical Devices XMOY2 tin can (Penguin style) headphone amp. If the dual OPA627 works well in this amp, I am thinking it should work well in the D1 too. Anyone tried this op amp?

 I like the OPA627 and AD825 op amps in my XMOY2 but don't know how they will sound in the D1. Cannot wait to get my D1.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *unbiased* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone measured the voltage provided by the D1 at the op amp power supply rail pins? What voltage does it provide. This would help us access what op amps will work best in here. Sorry if this info was posted already, I don't recall seeing it. I am waiting on my new D1 still. Just re-ordered it as it is back in stock now. I have some OPA627 op amps and some AD825 op amps which are working excellent in my Practical Devices XMOY2 tin can (Penguin style) headphone amp. If the dual OPA627 works well in this amp, I am thinking it should work well in the D1 too. Anyone tried this op amp?

 I like the OPA627 and AD825 op amps in my XMOY2 but don't know how they will sound in the D1. Cannot wait to get my D1._

 

I measured about 7.8 vdc at the LR and buffer sockets and less than 6 vdc for the DAC.


----------



## jamato8

The voltage at the opamp for the amp section is 5 volts and 8 or 9 volts, within volts, for the buffer section. This is on pin 8. I have measured these and have it posted somwhere. 

 You would have to use an adapter to mount two soic 627's to make it into a dual opamp but frankly I wouldn't bother as I think there are a number of opamps that sound better.


----------



## powertoold

If I kept the D1 plugged in all day, would it overcharge the battery or make it less effective?


----------



## jamato8

No, once the battery is charged it is bypassed and does not overcharge. This is according to iBasso.


----------



## powertoold

Sorry, Head-Fi lagging double post


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I kept the D1 plugged in all day, would it overcharge the battery or make it less effective?_

 

Didn't beleive me the first time, eh? Well, as far as I know, no, it will not. :^)


----------



## powertoold

How long are people's batteries lasting for the D1?


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How long are people's batteries lasting for the D1?_

 

I think the stated is 20 hours, but I would like to know actual usage hours, too, please.


----------



## jamato8

I have gotten a little over 20 hours of use. I have read of 22 hours but 20 hours is fair and more than enough time for a normal couple of days use. 

 I use a Tekkeon 3450 external battery and go for a very long time. I can run the Tekkeon at 7.5 volts and I get many, many hours of use or run the Tekkeon at 12 volts and charge the D1 and then run off the higher voltage for a slight increase in sound qualtiy.


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The voltage at the opamp for the amp section is 5 volts and 8 or 9 volts, within volts, for the buffer section. This is on pin 8. I have measured these and have it posted somwhere. 

 You would have to use an adapter to mount two soic 627's to make it into a dual opamp but frankly I wouldn't bother as I think there are a number of opamps that sound better._

 

Thanks HiFlight and jamato8for your voltage readings.

 jamato8, I do already have two SOIC-8 OPA627 op amps mounted to a BrownDog adapter. Same thing goes for the AD825 op amps that I am trying. I thought the OPA627 were not as great as they were made out to be also at first listen, but I think after letting them burn in for awhile, they mellowed out and sound pretty good. The AD825 in comparison is not as bright sounding but I prefer less harsh bright sounding. FWIW, I tried the LM4562 op amps and they were way bright sounding and too harsh for my tastes. But this is in my old XMOY2 tin can amp. Dunno how the D1 will mate with each op amp until I get my D1. I think the OPA2134pa and OPA2132 op amps sound decent too in the XMOY2. The OPA2111 sounds great in it also I should say... but seems to draw alot more current and needs voltage rails to remain higher than the other op amps or it starts distorting.
 I have a few other soic style op amps not yet mounted to dual-adapters that I want to try out in time. Have to dig out my Opti-Visors and tweezers again to solder them to the boards. It's something to do to pass the time


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *paladinca* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I found an article about LM4562-related opamps:

http://www.edn.com/blog/1700000170/post/790011279.html_

 

The key info they asked for is in the article:

 "The parts National just announced build on the two previous ultra-performance parts they have released, the LM4562 dual op-amp and the LM4702 power amp transistor driver IC. The new amplifiers are now available as singles (LME49710) and quads (LME49740) as well as the LME49720 dual that is the same die as the LM4562. They also spun a LME49860 dual that is a 44-volt version of the 49720."


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are some single op amps available that are not available in dual formats that seem to have a good reputation. 

 With the availability of an adapter like this:

http://www.cimarrontechnology.com/in...PROD&ProdID=24

 it seems feasible to use these in the D1. I am wondering if anyone has some experience with the potential benefits of these single op amps, and what the pitfalls might be._

 

ehlarson, I am using these Brown Dog adapters right now with several single op amps paired to make them duals. I am waiting for my D1 to be shipped and delivered, but in the mean time, I have been assembling my op amps and testing them in my Practical Devices Xmoy2 headphone amp (it is practically the same as the XM4 amp they sell now). Some op amp types like OPA627, AD825, AD8610 that I have are single amps and needed to be soldered onto these Brown Dog adapters. They fit perfectly well into the small 8 pin DIP socket areas of many amps. There are no draw backs really other than the extra work needed to build/solder the two op amps to the BD adapter (which requires a bit of skill as these are tiny). Not for the layman with beginners soldering skills...! Other drawback that I can think of is that since the op amps are singles, matching pairs may not be as precise as buying a dual op amp version of same op amp family. That's it. Go for it. They work well those single to dual adapters! I just soldered together my two AD8610 op amps to make it essentially an AD8620 op amp and am listening to it in my Xmoy2. The AD8610's (single version of the AD8620) sounds great. I highly recommend them. (Driving my Grado RS-1's)


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *unbiased* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 ehlarson, I am using these Brown Dog adapters right now with several single op amps paired to make them duals. I am waiting for my D1 to be shipped and delivered, but in the mean time, I have been assembling my op amps and testing them in my Practical Devices Xmoy2 headphone amp (it is practically the same as the XM4 amp they sell now). Some op amp types like OPA627, AD825, AD8610 that I have are single amps and needed to be soldered onto these Brown Dog adapters. They fit perfectly well into the small 8 pin DIP socket areas of many amps. There are no draw backs really other than the extra work needed to build/solder the two op amps to the BD adapter (which requires a bit of skill as these are tiny). Not for the layman with beginners soldering skills...! Other drawback that I can think of is that since the op amps are singles, matching pairs may not be as precise as buying a dual op amp version of same op amp family. That's it. Go for it. They work well those single to dual adapters! I just soldered together my two AD8610 op amps to make it essentially an AD8620 op amp and am listening to it in my Xmoy2. The AD8610's (single version of the AD8620) sounds great. I highly recommend them. (Driving my Grado RS-1's) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks. I have some interest in trying the AD797 in the D1, and maybe the AD627 so I have ordered some of these adapters.


----------



## Sieg9198

Finally!!! I got mine today, planning to try it stock form first, then change the opamp to see how big the difference is


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finally!!! I got mine today, planning to try it stock form first, then change the opamp to see how big the difference is 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't think you will be able to appreciate the difference with just KSC75's as I see you have paired them with in your sig 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## Schalldampfer

HiFlight, I sent you a PM. Please tell me if you've got it or not.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Found this on iBasso site...

  Quote:


 Then, let the locked inputting signal goes to the chips for decoding or amplification, and the MCU will turn into sleep status at the same time. Benefit from the MCU, the port AUX IN/OUT on the front panel can have multi-function. When there is S/PDIF signal inputting, this port is Line Out, otherwise, it is Line In. 
 

Does this mean I have to output using SPDIF in order to get a line out?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

I have gotten to around hour 30 (haven't been burning in all the time)

 And WOW! soundstage is deeeep. I never thought IEMs could have soundstage like this.

 It's almost 3d like. In one song there is this maraca going from right to left and before it was just flat... but now there is a sense of space and depth. Amazing!
_
 this is using lm4562 as buff, opa2111 LR and ad8656 DAC -supermodded im716
_


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have gotten to around hour 30 (haven't been burning in all the time)

 And WOW! soundstage is deeeep. I never thought IEMs could have soundstage like this.

 It's almost 3d like. In one song there is this maraca going from right to left and before it was just flat... but now there is a sense of space and depth. Amazing!_

 

Using your iM716 or Ety?


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does this mean I have to output using SPDIF in order to get a line out?_

 

USB is converted to S/PDIF by the D1's receiver chip.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Using your iM716 or Ety?_

 

I edited my post.

 im716 though


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_USB is converted to S/PDIF by the D1's receiver chip._

 

Awesome news! Thanks! So that means I can totally bypass the amp when I get a better one, right?


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I edited my post.

 im716 though_

 

How are they with the Ety?


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How are they with the Ety?_

 

Just tested and it's just as deep.


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Awesome news! Thanks! So that means I can totally bypass the amp when I get a better one, right?_

 

Right, but then you might be looking for a better DAC as well...


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *koto-in* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right, but then you might be looking for a better DAC as well..._

 

Eh... I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Heh.


----------



## The_X

I just ordered mine this weekend. Any idea how long it will take them to ship?


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The_X* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just ordered mine this weekend. Any idea how long it will take them to ship?_

 

They will probably ship yours by Wednesday. Some people have gotten it shipped a few days after the order now.

 BTW, I am trying to sell a bunch of brand new D1 opamps and accessories. Anyone interested in (3x SOIC>DIP Brown Dogs), (3x LMH6643 SOIC), (1x OPA2111KP), or (10x DIP to DIP adapters) please PM me! Thanks!


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think you will be able to appreciate the difference with just KSC75's as I see you have paired them with in your sig 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





._

 

Of course not
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But now I have to concentrate on getting my main rig which is a portable rig, after that I'll get a decent full size can to pair with the D1


----------



## The_X

Crap, now I'm wondering if the D1 is the best match for my incoming HF-1's. Would a Corda Arietta or another amp be a better complement?

 Also, I have no experience with circuits.. is modding the D1 difficult or expensive? What do you need to mod it?


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think you will be able to appreciate the difference with just KSC75's as I see you have paired them with in your sig 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





._

 

i have one recable(i dont know what cable been used, not canare) version of ksc75, which sing really well, very significant improve by adding d1...


----------



## jamato8

I use the Koss PortaPros quite often with the D1 and get a very good open, out of head presentation. They respond very well to this amplification/dac source and far exceed the price in sound quality, imo.


----------



## LarryVale

I just got my D1 today. Still stock of course. Connected to the optical out of my H120 playing Flac to my KSC 75's I am impressed. I tried switching back and forth between the H120 line out and THINK I can hear a difference between the line out running into a Headstage amp and the optical into the D1. The optical out/D1 high end seems to sound "cleaner". 

 Actually I am even more impressed with my KSC75's. I didn't know they could sound that good!

 This was a 30 second per side test. 

 I find the main difference between grades of sound is how much fatigue is involved, how sweet sounding, airey and the like doesn't convey a lot to me. 

 I need to see if I can find another audio nut locally and do double blind tests and see what we get. The D1 is just too heavy for the gym though.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *yuheng* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i have one recable(i dont know what cable been used, not canare) version of ksc75, which sing really well, very significant improve by adding d1...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

For me too. I have mine recabled with a Blue Dragon and sound really good with my D1.


----------



## jamato8

How do you encode to flac on a Mac? I downloaded Max to encode cd's to flac or mp3 and the tag is wrong so I can't play Flac or mp3 files (drop them onto the iRiver 120, as they are tagged wrong. Any ideas? Also, does anyone know how to take the files from the cd and control the speed of burning, when not burning to a cd? The speed is often 13X and I get errors, even with error correction activated and the cuts do not play through all the time but skip to the next cut. I prefer to download a cd at 1 or 2X.


----------



## nc8000

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use the Koss PortaPros quite often with the D1 and get a very good open, out of head presentation. They respond very well to this amplification/dac source and far exceed the price in sound quality, imo._

 

Yes, I get the same experience with the D1 and my Koss A250. It has no right to sound this good at that price point.


----------



## koto-in

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do you encode to flac on a Mac?_

 

xACT


----------



## Schalldampfer

Great... now I gotta go recable my KSC-75. And thanks SO much for the Ety cable, nc8000. I'll inform you when it arrives.


----------



## trickywombat

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do you encode to flac on a Mac? I downloaded Max to encode cd's to flac or mp3 and the tag is wrong so I can't play Flac or mp3 files (drop them onto the iRiver 120, as they are tagged wrong. Any ideas?_

 

With Max, I haven't had problems manually adding the Metadata and Album Art. But I find this a pain as I have to do this manually. One advantage of this is you can also mark or songs from a Various Artists album as a compilation so Cover Flow will work.

 What I do now is rip to Apple Lossless with iTunes. Ripping a CD to ALAC with iTunes, iTunes will fill in the tags from Gracenote, and try to find album art from the iTunes store.

 If iTunes can't find the albumn art, I use the Amazon Album Art widget to find the art (if it's not on Amazon, you have an option to search google images).

 The tagged ALAC will work in Rockbox on the iriver IHP. Haven't been able to tell a difference SQ-wise for ALAC vs FLAC with Rockbox. 

 Max can convert from ALAC to FLAC and vice versa rather quickly. I know it's a lot of steps, but I find it worth it just to get iTunes to auto tag the files and add album art.

 I'm sticking to iTunes because I need my files in Apple Lossless. ALAC will play on all my players - Rockbox (iriver ihp, nano 1G) and Original (iPod Classic and Touch). For Rockbox on the iriver IHP, I leave a thumbnail of the album cover as the file browser can display it in grayscale.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great... now I gotta go recable my KSC-75._

 

You're welcome.....that's what head-fi is all about....draining wallets!!!


----------



## xnothingpoetic

battery life update:

 I thought I'd share that today I got around 13-14 hours on a full charge, playing non stop. 

 This is with opa2111, lm4562, and ad8656. Using both amp and DAC (optical out on h120).


----------



## Schalldampfer

HiFlight, payment was sent. Please PM me when you see this.


----------



## Nine'

Finally got my D1 and so far sounding good. I'm running it stock until the batteries charge, at which point I'l start the rolling (I've already got quite a supply from my GV5S). 

 Initial impressions are the DAC is clearly superior to my Alien DAC (which I would hope for the price) and the amp is about the same level as my favorite GV5S configuration (switching between D1 and D1->GV5S). The imaging and detail are what really stand out at this point. Considering this is all stock I'm pretty happy with the result, can't wait to see what happens when I break out the opamps in a couple hours.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nine'* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finally got my D1 and so far sounding good. I'm running it stock until the batteries charge, at which point I'l start the rolling (I've already got quite a supply from my GV5S). 

 Initial impressions are the DAC is clearly superior to my Alien DAC (which I would hope for the price) and the amp is about the same level as my favorite GV5S configuration (switching between D1 and D1->GV5S). The imaging and detail are what really stand out at this point. Considering this is all stock I'm pretty happy with the result, can't wait to see what happens when I break out the opamps in a couple hours._

 

When'd you order yours and when was it shipped?


----------



## Nine'

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When'd you order yours and when was it shipped?_

 

I ordered mine late late september and had it ship Oct. 17th, and it just showed up earlier today. Though shame on UPS for never updating the tracking information (even now, I get nothing).

 On a side note, the D1 doesn't show any noise coming from the same cheap usb hub that affected my Alien DAC. I was going to try optical, but since the cheapo hub didn't mess up the D1 I'll stick with usb. I'm guessing the dividing line is whether the device taps into the bus power, which is why the Alien did so poorly out of the hub, so much better directly connected to my Macbook Pro, and why the D1 doesn't seem to care.

 One little quibble I have is the OS X volume appears to have no effect on the D1 output, and going MBP->D1->MylarThrees means I have to turn the D1 volume way down, to the point where I'm noticing a L/R channel imbalance. If anyone knows a way to externally control the D1 output I'd be much obliged. (I'd also settle for lowering the gain if that's an option)


----------



## willisv

I received my D1 in the mail yesterday (ordered on Oct. 1 and shipped on Oct. 14) and i must say that I am very pleased so far. It is very nicely built and sounded very good to me stock (playing flac optically from my rockboxed ihp-140). I was anxious to start opamp rolling and didn't waste any time replacing the stock opamps to OPA 2111 L/R, LM 4562 buffers, and 8656 for the DAC. Listening to this combination with my akg-701 headphones was far beyond my expectations, i have never heard anything this good before. I think the best part about it was how non-fatiguing it was to my ears, i was up till 3 am listening to it (i couldn't get enough!). 

 I put an order in to parts connection today for some blackgates that Jamato had recommended (They only had 180 uf Sanyo SP 20v) I hope that it will work, as far as I can tell the SP series replaces SG.

 Thanks to everyone that has posted info in this thread, I love this place!


----------



## Schalldampfer

HiFlight, just wondering if you could send me the tracking number via PM.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HiFlight, just wondering if you could send me the tracking number via PM._

 

These kinds of posts should be in PM's, and not on the discussion forums. Thanks!


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These kinds of posts should be in PM's, and not on the discussion forums. Thanks!_

 

My apologies, but I imagined that he would be getting a lot of PM's regarding the D1 and whatnot.


----------



## egdivle

Im a bit confused as to the current situation with the D1.
 Am I right in saying there is an updated verison coming out in November? How do people know this? Will it still be called the D1? Will the updated version be more expensive? Why did they feel the need to update it, considering all the good reviews? Is anyone else fed up with this barage of questions?
 Cheers, Andy


----------



## Monster_Omelette

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *egdivle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im a bit confused as to the current situation with the D1.
 Am I right in saying there is an updated verison coming out in November? How do people know this? Will it still be called the D1? Will the updated version be more expensive? Why did they feel the need to update it, considering all the good reviews? Is anyone else fed up with this barage of questions?
 Cheers, Andy_

 

There's going to be a different version of the D1 with different opamps released sometime in November; it'll be more expensive, but not by a significant amount. People know this b/c iBasso's been in contact (and vice versa) with some members of head-fi and they felt the need to release a different version since the unit improves *significantly * with different opamps installed (fyi, there is no "be all, end all" configuration, it varies per person although there are certain combinations of opamps that work better than others).


----------



## yuheng

i think it shall be same called as D1 but just update on opamp, i will confirm with ibasso some day later, guess they are facing short of supply now


----------



## globiboulga

As some may remember, my D1 got battery issues a month back, and I sent it back to iBasso. They later sent a replacement (once restocked with enclosure and the new leather cloth, which fits better - here about customer intimacy and responsiveness).

 Unfortunately the replacement is faulty (the USB/DAC does not work), and within a couple of days, they sent me another replacement, while I continue listening to the 'faulty' one (everything but the DAC works, it's hooked via coax to my computer).

 I've got to say, ordering online is always a gamble when it comes to customer service, especially when the company is abroad and does not have a front end store, but ibasso have continuously supported users with great willingness and been highly helpful; on top of listening to customers comments/suggestions on this forum. I wish more companies were like that.

 Kudos.

 And the D1 is bloody fantastic with the 2111!!!!


----------



## DennyL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *globiboulga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've got to say, ordering online is always a gamble when it comes to customer service, especially when the company is abroad and does not have a front end store, but ibasso have continuously supported users with great willingness and been highly helpful; on top of listening to customers comments/suggestions on this forum. I wish more companies were like that.

 Kudos.

 And the D1 is bloody fantastic with the 2111!!!!_

 

x2


----------



## Schalldampfer

Yes, their replies are very prompt. A definite plus.


----------



## LarryVale

gonna try this here. Move this if verbotten over here but...

 I am looking for a nice case or something that fits well so I can try to use this along with my iriver at my waist. Anyone have any suggestions? I refuse to do the rubber band thing folks. Besides I need the weight of this brick to be spread out a little.


----------



## mapstec

I do love testing different stuff, I am always on the lookout for the "next" stage, or at least another toy....

 Anyways, as I have remarked a few times, the D1 does not play nice with the DT880.

 Today I got a pair of AKG 340, and although they are as hard to drive as the DT880s (I am listening with the volume at 3 o'clock...) the combination feels very natural, not so say almost .... ..... right.

 The drive is there, control is there and still all the details sparkle.

 I am so glad I got the D1!!


----------



## Schalldampfer

All right. I just got them. And they sound so congested... Bass is punchy and aggressive in a good sense, though. Still waiting for opamps from HiFlight to come in. More detail than the Total BitHead I had before, especially in the lower frequencies.


----------



## souperman

What kind of onboard DIP sockets does the D1 use for the opamps? (You know the black sockets that they have for us to plug in the opamps.) I was wondering where I could purchase them in the US. Is there a specific name for them?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What kind of onboard DIP sockets does the D1 use for the opamps? (You know the black sockets that they have for us to plug in the opamps.) I was wondering where I could purchase them in the US. Is there a specific name for them?_

 

There are many different manufactures and styles. I like the simple tin plated type with a finger pressure socket, not the round socket for each leg as the finger type holds up very good and I prefer the sound of the simple tin plated type vs gold.


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mapstec* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyways, as I have remarked a few times, the D1 does not play nice with the DT880._

 

Really? Not my case at all. I am listening to Brahms three intermezzi (Lupu) with my older pair at about 11:30 and I love what I am hearing. I think the combination provides a wonderfully clear and dynamic musical experience.


----------



## Schalldampfer

I'll agree with the dynamic, but not clear. At least not yet.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are many different manufactures and styles. I like the simple tin plated type with a finger pressure socket, not the round socket for each leg as the finger type holds up very good and I prefer the sound of the simple tin plated type vs gold._

 

Could you direct me to the type that iBasso uses directly on their board? I need to recover a little part of the adapter. I do'nt know where to look or what they are called to buy them. Thanks.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Could you direct me to the type that iBasso uses directly on their board? I need to recover a little part of the adapter. I do'nt know where to look or what they are called to buy them. Thanks._

 

I would email iBasso directly. There are many types and manufacturers of dip sockets so determining which one you have can be very difficult, especially if they are Chinese made.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would email iBasso directly. There are many types and manufacturers of dip sockets so determining which one you have can be very difficult, especially if they are Chinese made._

 

Yes, I e-mailed them, but I'm sure some people on this forum could tell me what they are using, or any that look exactly like the one's iBasso is using.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, I e-mailed them, but I'm sure some people on this forum could tell me what they are using, or any that look exactly like the one's iBasso is using._

 

I've found the exact same DIP sockets here in Belgium. PM me with your address and I'll drop one in the mail to you.


----------



## powertoold

Anyone interested in buying my brand new OPA2111KP, 3x Brown Dog SOIC DIP adapters, or 3x LMH6643s? If so, please PM me!


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've found the exact same DIP sockets here in Belgium. PM me with your address and I'll drop one in the mail to you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks Dex!


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone interested in buying my brand new OPA2111KP, 3x Brown Dog SOIC DIP adapters, or 3x LMH6643s? If so, please PM me!_

 

That's what the FS forums are for


----------



## powertoold

Wow you got a lot of opamps soup hehe


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow you got a lot of opamps soup hehe 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My roommate had to buy a whole bunch for some reason. No idea why.


----------



## Schalldampfer

I notice improvements at just about 1 hour of burn-in... It doesn't sound as congested anymore. I can't wait to see how it changes in the end.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Just to add... even with very little burn in, I think it sounds better than the Total BitHead I had before in the details department. Soundstage still needs to be developed a bit, though.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Guys, either I have a defective amp or I have found a defect in this amp design. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 Can u guys please try this out and see:
 When plugged into the usb output of you computer, try to move the mini usb plug on the amp from right to left or up and down a little. When ever the metal part of the plug touches the sides of the casing, my foobar2k/WMP stops playing and sometimes i get an error in Windows XP saying there is something is wrong with the usb audio device... WTH?






 Its an intermittent problem. Sometimes when i shake it it happens, sometimes it doesn't happen. I found out about this problem because my foobar2k would randomly freeze up when playing, now I know why. I was thinking its an internal problem with the amp, now I know its the usb plug.

 When I use this plug:







 The problem is even easier to replicate. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Something is shorting out IMHO... 

 I'll try it on my desktop later and see. Right now I'm on my laptop. Guys, I'd really appreciate it if you could test it out and see if it happens with yours too or is it just me with a defective amp. Thanks a lot, I appreciate the help. 

 I love the sound of this amp, I'm just sad this has to happen to me.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just to add... even with very little burn in, I think it sounds better than the Total BitHead I had before in the details department. Soundstage still needs to be developed a bit, though._

 

If you read the older posts, you will see that it indeed develops over time in the bass, mids, highs, soundstage, and detail. The stock D1 soundstage actually might have gone a bit too far in sounding a little distant after 400 hours, but rolling in an OPA2111 LR opamp, and some AD8397 as buffers made a huge difference.

 This weekend I have about 10 other opamps to try (3 for DAC, 5-6 for LR, 2-3 different buffer pairs). I had taken it back to stock to evaluate a couple of amps and a DAC, which I am done doing now.


----------



## Monster_Omelette

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guys, either I have a defective amp or I have found a defect in this amp design. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			







 Can u guys please try this out and see:
 When plugged into the usb output of you computer, try to move the mini usb plug on the amp from right to left or up and down a little. When ever the metal part of the plug touches the sides of the casing, my foobar2k/WMP stops playing and sometimes i get an error in Windows XP saying there is something is wrong with the usb audio device... WTH?






 Its an intermittent problem. Sometimes when i shake it it happens, sometimes it doesn't happen. I found out about this problem because my foobar2k would randomly freeze up when playing, now I know why. I was thinking its an internal problem with the amp, now I know its the usb plug.

 When I use this plug:







 The problem is even easier to replicate. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Something is shorting out IMHO... 

 I'll try it on my desktop later and see. Right now I'm on my laptop. Guys, I'd really appreciate it if you could test it out and see if it happens with yours too or is it just me with a defective amp. Thanks a lot, I appreciate the help. 

 I love the sound of this amp, I'm just sad this has to happen to me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hmmm, I had exactly the same problem you did, except that when I tried different USB cables, it went away; for me, the one they supplied was clearly faulty. However, the fact that the problem gets worse with the other cable is perplexing...


----------



## Schalldampfer

Try a yet another USB cable, wrecked_porsche. I've eaten through 2 USB cables using my Total BitHead in the last year.


----------



## souperman

Woh, why is your USB link light green? I wish mine was green.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woh, why is your USB link light green? I wish mine was green._

 

What color is yours? Mine's also green, and I rather find it a little ugly.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What color is yours? Mine's also green, and I rather find it a little ugly._

 

Mine is blue.


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Monster_Omelette* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmmm, I had exactly the same problem you did, except that when I tried different USB cables, it went away; for me, the one they supplied was clearly faulty. However, the fact that the problem gets worse with the other cable is perplexing..._

 

Man, this is not a good showng for the iBasso QC. Even though the unit is priced relatively cheap for its feature set, at least they should make sure it is reliable and works without these quirks. I wonder if they held up this last batch because they received reports of this and are hopefully remedying it.

 I also noticed that your optical digital input has the removable protective cover piece instead of the built in protective optical cover jack. Another cost cutting measure there. For a portable design, it should have the automatic protective cover so that we don't lose the little optical cover piece (which always seems to happen to small detachable pieces). 

 iBasso just replied to my email saying that my iBasso will ship within this week. I don't know how the heck that can happen now that it is Friday night here in USA and in China it is Saturday already. The week is gone and no shipping tracking number from them at all. I am getting impatient and hope that they are fixing these reported bugs in the next batch of units they send out.


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mine is blue._

 

I hope the D1 I get (whenever I get it) has a blue LED light also. I think blue looks alot better and cooler than green or red or white or yellow on electronic gear. They must have run out of blue LED's now too...? Sheesh. QC not too strict at iBasso D1 it seems. LED's should not be such a hard part to obtain... so I doubt it would be that excuse. Poor planning, poor preparation is more likely, it seems. I just hope they learn fast and order larger batches of components to meet supply, now that they know that they have a hot seller.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict




----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_



_

 

x2


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Woh, why is your USB link light green? I wish mine was green._

 

Hmmmm... I have two D1's - both are blue.


----------



## Akui

You have tw.... argh. Stop hogging them all, and let the rest of us try one!


----------



## jerikl

I actually hope my LED ISN'T blue. The blue LEDs are too damn bright. But whatever I get, it doesn't matter, the sweet sound of the D1 is all that's important. At least I hope the sound is sweet, being that I haven't heard it yet.


----------



## Schalldampfer

I want blue over my green...


----------



## Schalldampfer

Egad... the amp is very revealing of recording flaws...


----------



## pianomav

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jerikl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I actually hope my LED ISN'T blue. The blue LEDs are too damn bright. But whatever I get, it doesn't matter, the sweet sound of the D1 is all that's important. At least I hope the sound is sweet, being that I haven't heard it yet. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I agree,, the blue led is really BRIGHT! I wonder if there's a way to tone this down a lil bit... maybe some resistors??


----------



## pianomav

Has anyone tried the D1 with some earbuds like the pk1? What's your impression?


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll try to find another mini usb cable and try. Its gotten to a point of irritation now. Last night I was really enjoying my music and then I moved a little and my headphone cable kinda tugged on my D1 just a little... then it happened again. The damn thing just froze. The slightest thig triggers it off. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I had to unplug the usb and put it in back again, then restart foobar2k for it to play. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 BTW, the green LED is kinda cool when used in the dark because on the front its BLUE, and the back its GREEN. Gives a cool effect. However the green is SLIGHTLY brighter than the blue one. I got my D1 last Friday(last week) in case anyone is wondering.

 My D1 has about 100hrs burn in, I LOVE the sound. The separation of instruments and sound-stage are awesome. The only thing driving me mad is the sound cutting off/foobar2k freezing up when the cable gets moved around by just a smidgen.

*I have a few more questions and I'd really appreciate it if you guys could help me out here.*

*1)*Am I the only one here besides "Monster_Omelette" who has this problem? I want to find out how common the problem is, if its quite common, then I think there is no point in me sending mine back since there is a high chance the new one will have the same problem too right? I use it on my laptop by my bedside, maybe that's why I notice this problem more. I mean on your desktops, you don't have to move it at all, but my laptop gets moved a little here and there, like repositioning by a foot or two every now and then. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But its not like I'm lifting both my laptop and the ibasso up and shaking ;em to death. The iBasso is on a chair next to my bad, the laptop is on another chair. Both side by side. I hope you get what i mean? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Maybe most of you guys are using it on your desktop, which is why you don't notice this problem? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




*2)*Anyone has any idea why its happening? I mean like is there like the usb input port on the amp like touching any other component? Must I open up the amp to fix this by say, bending some cap or something away from the usb input? I'd really like to know how to fix this besides swapping cables. Its driving me nuts... I just wanna enjoy my music uninterrupted. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 For every hour that I listen, the problem is sure to crop up at least once.

*3)*If all else fails, is this considered as a faulty amp? I wonder if iBasso will swap it for me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Thanks guys, you've really been helpful. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Sorry about the long and gloomy post, but I just want to get back to uninterrupted audio bliss. I just want to sink into my music and get lost, the iBasso jams up and brings me back to reality....


----------



## yuheng

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the replies guys. I'll try to find another mini usb cable and try. Its gotten to a point of irritation now. Last night I was really enjoying my music and then I moved a little and my headphone cable kinda tugged on my D1 just a little... then it happened again. The damn thing just froze. The slightest thig triggers it off. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I had to unplug the usb and put it in back again, then restart foobar2k for it to play. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 BTW, the green LED is kinda cool when used in the dark because on the front its BLUE, and the back its GREEN. Gives a cool effect. However the green is SLIGHTLY brighter than the blue one. I got my D1 last Friday(last week) in case anyone is wondering.

 My D1 has about 100hrs burn in, I LOVE the sound. The separation of instruments and sound-stage are awesome. The only thing driving me mad is the sound cutting off/foobar2k freezing up when the cable gets moved around by just a smidgen.

*I have a few more questions and I'd really appreciate it if you guys could help me out here.*

*1)*Am I the only one here besides "Monster_Omelette" who has this problem? I want to find out how common the problem is, if its quite common, then I think there is no point in me sending mine back since there is a high chance the new one will have the same problem too right? I use it on my laptop by my bedside, maybe that's why I notice this problem more. I mean on your desktops, you don't have to move it at all, but my laptop gets moved a little here and there, like repositioning by a foot or two every now and then. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But its not like I'm lifting both my laptop and the ibasso up and shaking ;em to death. The iBasso is on a chair next to my bad, the laptop is on another chair. Both side by side. I hope you get what i mean? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Maybe most of you guys are using it on your desktop, which is why you don't notice this problem? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




*2)*Anyone has any idea why its happening? I mean like is there like the usb input port on the amp like touching any other component? Must I open up the amp to fix this by say, bending some cap or something away from the usb input? I'd really like to know how to fix this besides swapping cables. Its driving me nuts... I just wanna enjoy my music uninterrupted. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 For every hour that I listen, the problem is sure to crop up at least once.

*3)*If all else fails, is this considered as a faulty amp? I wonder if iBasso will swap it for me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Thanks guys, you've really been helpful. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Sorry about the long and gloomy post, but I just want to get back to uninterrupted audio bliss. I just want to sink into my music and get lost, the iBasso jams up and brings me back to reality.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	
















_

 

hi, i think i have replied u in lowyat forum, but nvm..here i come again...

 i dont face this problem in ibasso as i m using desktop PC, but i do suffered this problem for my zhaolu last times...when just a tiny shack, the indicator will shown "no signal"......i tot it was cable problem so i changed the other cable..it was fine for a fews day..but after that the problem come again...but thing changed when i reformat my pc month later....the thing recovered automaticlly...it have been 1++ month for zhaolu w/o even show the "no signal" indicators...

 so i wonder whether is it related to any internal USB settings??
 coz after reformat..thing changed


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Well, I'm going to reformat my laptop in mid Nov, I'll see if it solves my problem.
 Problem does not seem to happen on my desktop soo far, but then again 95% of my iBasso D1 usage is with my laptop anyway so I need to test it out with my desktop more. My Desktop is using XP pro and Laptop is using XP Home... I wonder if that makes a difference in USB management?


----------



## Schalldampfer

I have had this problem with my Total BitHead twice like I told you before, and they were all used with my laptop, and just like you, I always moved from the desk to my bed with the amp still plugged in. USB cables really aren't built for endurance or movement. I'm actually expecting this cable that came with the D1 just yesterday to start malfunctioning pretty soon, too. I'll just have to buy a new one, then.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pianomav* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree,, the blue led is really BRIGHT! I wonder if there's a way to tone this down a lil bit... maybe some resistors??_

 

Stick a thin layer of blue-tack over the LED. Should calm it right down a notch.


----------



## jirams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stick a thin layer of blue-tack over the LED. Should calm it right down a notch. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Solder a 3k ohm resistor (or thereabouts in value) accross the LED leads behind the front panel.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had this problem with my Total BitHead twice like I told you before, and they were all used with my laptop, and just like you, I always moved from the desk to my bed with the amp still plugged in. USB cables really aren't built for endurance or movement. I'm actually expecting this cable that came with the D1 just yesterday to start malfunctioning pretty soon, too. I'll just have to buy a new one, then._

 

Well, I guess its the cable problem then. Funny thing is that the same cable, when used with my desktop doesn't seem to bee soo picky about movement... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is the usb signal weaker on the laptop or something? Or is the usb priority set lower in windows on laptops or something? Any way to change it? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dexdexter* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stick a thin layer of blue-tack over the LED. Should calm it right down a notch. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Or just cut out a small strip from a band aid and stick it there on the LED.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*1)*Am I the only one here besides "Monster_Omelette" who has this problem? I want to find out how common the problem is, if its quite common, then I think there is no point in me sending mine back since there is a high chance the new one will have the same problem too right?_

 

I had that problem when using the D1 with a cheap micro-usb cable and the laptop in my lap where things move around a bit. With the cable that was supplied with the D1 I got much better results. 

 I'm now using a sysconcept SPDIF mini to toslink connector cable with my laptop and have no problems at all. If you have a laptop that has optical out I would recommend this instead of the USB. My feeling and experience with micro-usb is that it will never be as good as toslink for connection security. You can improve things with a really good cable, but it will never be really secure.

 I think it would have been much better to have a USB B-type connector. It seems to me that iBasso case has enough room, and that would be far more reliable than these micro things - I have never seen one of those that was really secure or jostle resistant on any portable device.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had that problem when using the D1 with a cheap micro-usb cable and the laptop in my lap where things move around a bit. With the cable that was supplied with the D1 I got much better results. 

 I'm now using a sysconnect SPDIF mini to spdif connector cable with my laptop and have no problems at all. If you have a laptop that has optical out I would recommend this instead of the USB. My feeling and experience with micro-usb is that it will never be as good as SPDIF for connection security. You can improve things with a really good cable, but it will never be really secure.

 I think it would have been much better to have a B-type connector. It seems to me that iBasso case has enough room, and that would be far more reliable than these micro things - I have never seen one of those that was really secure or jostle resistant on any portable device._

 

Is SPDIF better sounding? And if I understand it correctly, SPDIF sound quality depends on the quality of the cable, correct?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is SPDIF better sounding? And if I understand it correctly, SPDIF sound quality depends on the quality of the cable, correct?_

 

HiFlight has noted that there is no difference in sound to him. I asked the same question as well, and he recommended me just stay with USB because my laptop doesn't have optical, and it would just be another conenction I would have to buy.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HiFlight has noted that there is no difference in sound to him. I asked the same question as well, and he recommended me just stay with USB because my laptop doesn't have optical, and it would just be another conenction I would have to buy._

 

Mmm... but SPDIF uses a mini-to-mini, correct?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mmm... but SPDIF uses a mini-to-mini, correct?_

 

no. and i would have to buy another dongle to get SPDIF. that would be two more things to buy.


----------



## souperman

I have been experimenting with the D1 and opamps lately, and here are my favorite combos. I look for very deep bass that is hardhitting when it needs to be, and when it hits...it REALLY hits 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 AD746 LR Channel
 2 AD8397 Buffers
 AD8656 DAC

 or for a more relaxed sound, but very tubey and engaging:

 LTC6241HVCS8 LR
 2 AD8397 Buffers
 AD746 DAC


 I really enjoy the very versatile AD746's. The AD8397's are also a great buffer that packs a lot of power and punch. They are a great opamp in my opinion for good bass. The OPA2132 works wonders as well in my opinion. In my opinion the AD746, AD8397, and even the OPA2132 should at least be in every D1 rollers repertoire.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mmm... but SPDIF uses a mini-to-mini, correct?_

 

This is a good picture of the cable type I am using:

http://www.sysconcept.ca/popup_image.php?pID=68

 It is a mini to toslink cable.

 Like everyone else here I am very happy with the sysconcept cables. Very much premium quality at a reasonable price.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have been experimenting with the D1 and opamps lately, and here are my favorite combos. I look for very deep bass that is hardhitting when it needs to be, and when it hits...it REALLY hits 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.

 AD746 LR Channel
 2 AD8397 Buffers
 AD8656 DAC

 or for a more relaxed sound, but very tubey and engaging:

 LTC6241HVCS8 LR
 2 AD8397 Buffers
 AD746 DAC


 I really enjoy the very versatile AD746's. The AD8397's are also a great buffer that packs a lot of power and punch. They are a great opamp in my opinion for good bass. The OPA2132 works wonders as well in my opinion. In my opinion the AD746, AD8397, and even the OPA2132 should at least be in every D1 rollers repertoire._

 


 That's pretty funny. I just logged on to ask HiFlight a question about 

 1) those same combos above (I have all those chips).

 2) And, I have to decide if I should sub the AD8397 buffers that I was using over to the LME49720 or LMH6643 or just leave the AD8397 as buffers.

 3) lastly, I also wondered about the DAC, since I don't have a LT6234 for the DAC like he is using. IF I switch the buffers, should I move the AD8397 into the DAC or will the AD8656 still be the best, or should I move the AD746 to the DAC and use something else for LR

 Here is everything I have right now:

 TWO EACH OF THESE FOR BUFFERS, OR FOR AMP OR DAC IF NOT IN THE BUFFERS:

 AD8397 x2 (high power draw)
 LMH6643 x2 (low power draw)
 LM4562 x2 (don't know power draw)
 LME49720NA x2 (don't know power draw)


 I HAVE ONE EACH OF THESE FOR LR OR DAC but DON'T HAVE a 6234:

 AD8656 (was told DAC ONLY)
 AD746 (don't know power draw)
 LTC6241HV (low power draw)
 OPA2111 (high power draw)
 AD8066/BD (high power draw)

 Well Ron? What do you think? I have only tried OPA2111 LR/AD8297x2 BUFFER/AD8656 DAC and was waiting for the rest of my opamps to arrive


----------



## HiFlight

Not content to leave well-enough alone, I decided to make some adapters using the Browndog single to dual DIP adapter to mount some of my opamps that I had used in my Xin amps and see if my all-time favorite for my SM-IV, the AD797, sounded as good in my D1. 

 I bypassed the buffer sockets with plug-in sockets that jumpered the input/outputs of both buffers, rendering them a straight wire. As the AD797 has a pretty good current output and extremely low noise as well as nearly perfect square-wave response, I figured that buffers would only downgrade the sound. I found this to be the case in the D1 as well as in the Xin amp.

 It is a very tight fit when putting in the 2-1 adapter for L&R, and requires bending a couple of caps to the side a small amount in order to seat the Browndog. 

 The resulting sound was certainly worth the effort, as it is even more spectacular in the D1 than in the SM-IV, due to the fact that the D1 seems to be very stable, even with fast opamps. At any rate, the sound is very full and warm, with deep fundemental bass that one can almost feel, especially when running an optical input. Trebles are clean and crisp with no excessive brightness or sibilence. Soundstage is very natural, with instrument placement very solid and stable. 

 I would say that the SQ is very similar to that experienced with high-end tube amps

 Due to space limitations on the 2-1 adapter, it is not possible to use 2 browndog mounted SOIC opamps, however most of the ones I used successfully in the Xin were of DIP configuration. 

 Rather than solder the opamps into the adapter, I soldered 2 standoff sockets onto the adapter, thereby making it quick and easy to change opamps while leaving the adapter in place. 

 If one really wanted to use browndog mounted SOIC single-channel opamps, the sockets could be soldered to the adapter at a slight angle, providing a little more room, however I doube that I will be trying too many other opamps, as I really like the sound of the bypassed 797s. 

 To summarize, if interested in trying this combo, one needs a 2-1 single to dual Browndog adapter (DIP), 4 sockets, 4 jumpers, and 2 AD797 DIP opamps. Soldering the sockets onto the adapter requires soldering 8 small pins that in are close proximity to each other. Solder bridges are NOT good! Once the sockets are done, the rest is quick and easy.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Tempting us solder-newbs with your fabulous accounts of modding journey is evil, HiFlight.


----------



## ehlarson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is a very tight fit when putting in the 2-1 adapter for L&R, and requires bending a couple of caps to the side a small amount in order to seat the Browndog. _

 

Is there any reason not to use one of the double-sided SOIC adapters?

http://cimarrontechnology.com/index....PROD&ProdID=24

 It looks like they may be a better fit.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ehlarson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there any reason not to use one of the double-sided SOIC adapters?

http://cimarrontechnology.com/index....PROD&ProdID=24

 It looks like they may be a better fit._

 

They would be a better fit, but it would necessitate permanently soldering your opamps onto the adapter rather than being able to use it "Plug and Play" as you can on a standard Browndog SOIC>DIP. 

 I am sure that tilting the sockets a tiny bit outboard when soldering them to the 2>1 adapter would allow them to fit while still allowing them to be used in other locations.


----------



## bpfiguer

Questions for Ron:

 Does this dual to 2 single adapter work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Dual-to-Single...QQcmdZViewItem

 I bypassed the buffer sockets with plug-in sockets that jumpered the input/outputs of both buffers, rendering them a straight wire. Could you please provide a picture to have a better idea? 

 Thanks,


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Ron PM'd me about the 2-1 adapter, and I went to ebay and ordered some with two AD797. That looks like the one you want.

 I wonder if my Headsix can take a pair of the AD797? I seem to recall the Move uses a pair of 8610, right? Headsix should be similar.


----------



## Capunk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pianomav* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone tried the D1 with some earbuds like the pk1? What's your impression?_

 

That's part of my portable rig, I love PK-1 sound signature, floaty & stuff... 
 D1 with OPA2111,LM4562,AD8656 make my PK1 sound warm, and the soundstage remain... somehow 3D a like, although when compared to Headsix, D1 feel abit distant, in term of soundscape, rather than headsix where you really close to the music. But I like the combination between D1 & PK1. 
 Hence they got "1" on their last name.


----------



## viator36

Ron,

 Do you have a picture of the plug-in sockets and/or a web link to a vendor like Newark or Digikey?


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not content to leave well-enough alone, I decided to make some adapters using the Browndog single to dual DIP adapter to mount some of my opamps that I had used in my Xin amps and see if my all-time favorite for my SM-IV, the AD797, sounded as good in my D1. 

 I bypassed the buffer sockets with plug-in sockets that jumpered the input/outputs of both buffers, rendering them a straight wire. As the AD797 has a pretty good current output and extremely low noise as well as nearly perfect square-wave response, I figured that buffers would only downgrade the sound. I found this to be the case in the D1 as well as in the Xin amp.

 It is a very tight fit when putting in the 2-1 adapter for L&R, and requires bending a couple of caps to the side a small amount in order to seat the Browndog. 

 The resulting sound was certainly worth the effort, as it is even more spectacular in the D1 than in the SM-IV, due to the fact that the D1 seems to be very stable, even with fast opamps. At any rate, the sound is very full and warm, with deep fundemental bass that one can almost feel, especially when running an optical input. Trebles are clean and crisp with no excessive brightness or sibilence. Soundstage is very natural, with instrument placement very solid and stable. 

 I would say that the SQ is very similar to that experienced with high-end tube amps

 Due to space limitations on the 2-1 adapter, it is not possible to use 2 browndog mounted SOIC opamps, however most of the ones I used successfully in the Xin were of DIP configuration. 

 Rather than solder the opamps into the adapter, I soldered 2 standoff sockets onto the adapter, thereby making it quick and easy to change opamps while leaving the adapter in place. 

 If one really wanted to use browndog mounted SOIC single-channel opamps, the sockets could be soldered to the adapter at a slight angle, providing a little more room, however I doube that I will be trying too many other opamps, as I really like the sound of the bypassed 797s. 

 To summarize, if interested in trying this combo, one needs a 2-1 single to dual Browndog adapter (DIP), 4 sockets, 4 jumpers, and 2 AD747 DIP opamps. Soldering the sockets onto the adapter requires soldering 8 small pins that in are close proximity to each other. Solder bridges are NOT good! Once the sockets are done, the rest is quick and easy._

 

What a great idea Highflight! I want to try this out too when I get my D1! The bypassing of the buffer stage op amps to reduce component count and less colorations/distortions to be introduced... what a great idea. Worth a try for sure even with some other op amps that can handle high current on their own. Now I have to order some AD797's! and maybe some of those double socket adapters.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...bunch of stuff..._

 

I'm pretty sure I have an accurate picture of your description

 but a _real _picture would be a bit more helpful


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bpfiguer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Questions for Ron:

 Does this dual to 2 single adapter work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Dual-to-Single...QQcmdZViewItem

 I bypassed the buffer sockets with plug-in sockets that jumpered the input/outputs of both buffers, rendering them a straight wire. Could you please provide a picture to have a better idea? 

 Thanks,_

 

I think that will work just fine. It is worded backwards, but still looks like the correct one. 2 singles to 1 dual.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xnothingpoetic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm pretty sure I have an accurate picture of your description

 but a real picture would be a bit more helpful 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ask and ye shall receive!!! The new adapter:


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They would be a better fit, but it would necessitate permanently soldering your opamps onto the adapter rather than being able to use it "Plug and Play" as you can on a standard Browndog SOIC>DIP. 

 I am sure that tilting the sockets a tiny bit outboard when soldering them to the 2>1 adapter would allow them to fit while still allowing them to be used in other locations._

 

This is what I have been doing with my single op amps that needed to be made into duals. It works well. I may go this route with the AD797's more compact. 

 Highflight, do we only need two AD797 op amps? So it is only one dual op amp you are replacing in the D1? Which one is the L&R op amp from the pictures in post 1? (I don't have my D1 yet). I don't know exactly what the original type op amps are used in the D1 other than the AD823. I am sure the details are scattered across the thread but just too hard to search them all down. Can someone list the original op amp types used in the D1 here again and what role they are doing please?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *unbiased* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is what I have been doing with my single op amps that needed to be made into duals. It works well. I may go this route with the AD797's more compact. 

 Highflight, do we only need two AD797 op amps? So it is only one dual op amp you are replacing in the D1? Which one is the L&R op amp from the pictures in post 1? (I don't have my D1 yet). I don't know exactly what the original type op amps are used in the D1 other than the AD823. I am sure the details are scattered across the thread but just too hard to search them all down. Can someone list the original op amp types used in the D1 here again and what role they are doing please?_

 

Yes, you only need 2 AD797s to replace the AD823 Dual that is standard. The L&R channel socket is the one closest to the right edge of the amplifier. There is a single socket (LR), then 3 caps, then 2 side by side buffer sockets. The DAC socket is furthest to the rear of the amp. 

 The standard buffers are NE5532s and the DAC is an AD8616.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Hmm... my D1 cuts out from time to time. I think it happens when I load the USB ports.


----------



## Sieg9198

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the replies guys. I'll try to find another mini usb cable and try. Its gotten to a point of irritation now. Last night I was really enjoying my music and then I moved a little and my headphone cable kinda tugged on my D1 just a little... then it happened again. The damn thing just froze. The slightest thig triggers it off. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I had to unplug the usb and put it in back again, then restart foobar2k for it to play. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 BTW, the green LED is kinda cool when used in the dark because on the front its BLUE, and the back its GREEN. Gives a cool effect. However the green is SLIGHTLY brighter than the blue one. I got my D1 last Friday(last week) in case anyone is wondering.

 My D1 has about 100hrs burn in, I LOVE the sound. The separation of instruments and sound-stage are awesome. The only thing driving me mad is the sound cutting off/foobar2k freezing up when the cable gets moved around by just a smidgen.

*I have a few more questions and I'd really appreciate it if you guys could help me out here.*

*1)*Am I the only one here besides "Monster_Omelette" who has this problem? I want to find out how common the problem is, if its quite common, then I think there is no point in me sending mine back since there is a high chance the new one will have the same problem too right? I use it on my laptop by my bedside, maybe that's why I notice this problem more. I mean on your desktops, you don't have to move it at all, but my laptop gets moved a little here and there, like repositioning by a foot or two every now and then. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But its not like I'm lifting both my laptop and the ibasso up and shaking ;em to death. The iBasso is on a chair next to my bad, the laptop is on another chair. Both side by side. I hope you get what i mean? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Maybe most of you guys are using it on your desktop, which is why you don't notice this problem? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




*2)*Anyone has any idea why its happening? I mean like is there like the usb input port on the amp like touching any other component? Must I open up the amp to fix this by say, bending some cap or something away from the usb input? I'd really like to know how to fix this besides swapping cables. Its driving me nuts... I just wanna enjoy my music uninterrupted. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 For every hour that I listen, the problem is sure to crop up at least once.

*3)*If all else fails, is this considered as a faulty amp? I wonder if iBasso will swap it for me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Thanks guys, you've really been helpful. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Sorry about the long and gloomy post, but I just want to get back to uninterrupted audio bliss. I just want to sink into my music and get lost, the iBasso jams up and brings me back to reality.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	
















_

 

I've experience this problem twice, in the same day, but my conditions are a bit different.

 I'm using mine on my desktop PC, when I was playing dota, the sound suddenly cuts off(I didnt touch the D1), I have to replug the USB to make it work, I thought it's the cable problem, but no mather how I twiggle it it didnt cut off.(maybe it's not the cable problem after all)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe it's just that I'm using USB1.1(crappy computer). After that day I've never experienced the cutoff.(even when playing dota)


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, you only need 2 AD797s to replace the AD823 Dual that is standard. The L&R channel socket is the one closest to the right edge of the amplifier. There is a single socket (LR), then 3 caps, then 2 side by side buffer sockets. The DAC socket is furthest to the rear of the amp. 

 The standard buffers are NE5532s and the DAC is an AD8616._

 

Okay Thanks! I am going to order 4 AD797's just to have spares to play with in other DAC/amps. I think I am going to go with the soic8 package instead of DIP8's though.


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ask and ye shall receive!!! The new adapter: 




_

 

Oh my gosh! I think I ordered the wrong connectors!!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 LOL!


----------



## bpfiguer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that will work just fine. It is worded backwards, but still looks like the correct one. 2 singles to 1 dual._

 

Thank you for the information. Could be possible to bypass the iBasso D1 buffer sockets with the dual dummy Op-Amp adapter (see attached picture) that Dr. Xin sells? Which are the buffer sockets input/outputs pins that I need to jumper?

 Thanks,


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm... my D1 cuts out from time to time. I think it happens when I load the USB ports._

 

Before this you were using only the optical and not the usb input?


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've experience this problem twice, in the same day, but my conditions are a bit different.

 I'm using mine on my desktop PC, when I was playing dota, the sound suddenly cuts off(I didnt touch the D1), I have to replug the USB to make it work, I thought it's the cable problem, but no mather how I twiggle it it didnt cut off.(maybe it's not the cable problem after all)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe it's just that I'm using USB1.1(crappy computer). After that day I've never experienced the cutoff.(even when playing dota)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well I only seem to get the aforementioned problem when using USB on my laptop, I haven't experienced the problem on my desktop YET. But that remains to be seen. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My Laptop is USB 1.1
 My Desktop is USB 2.0

 I wonder if that makes a difference?


----------



## pianomav

I was using the usb input the whole time yesterday and had not trouble at all. It was flawless , no popping sound or cutting.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

What are the specs of your PC and what version of XP are u using?


----------



## pianomav

I'm using a Lenovo T60 Thinkpad and XP professional. The laptop has usb 2.0 and i'm using the cheap cable that came with the D1.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

My laptop is XP home and USB1.1, my desktop is USB2.0 with XP Pro.

 Problem only seems to be happening with my laptop.
 Just as I was typing this, the darn problem happened again...


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My laptop is XP home and USB1.1, my desktop is USB2.0 with XP Pro.

 Problem only seems to be happening with my laptop.
 Just as I was typing this, the darn problem happened again...







_

 

That USB 1.1 could be why. But even so, try a third cable. It could be because you move your laptop around that this happens.

 Also, I have only used the USB, never coax.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Well it happened again (foobar2k froze up) just now even with out me touching the usb cables or anything, just happened by itself. I left it playing and went for lunch, when I came back it had froze. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess I'll reformat my laptop as "yuheng" suggested a few pages back.
 I was planning on a reformat after my exams(next two weeks) anyway, so I guess I'll try that and see if it works...


----------



## mapstec

At long last I had a reason to bare my D1 again:





 The first set of opamps has been put in and is playing right now.

 So far the "old" standard configuration of ADA4841 in the DAC and OPA211 with AD8397 buffers performs very well, really nice soundstage, as for the rest they need to burn in a bit.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bpfiguer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you for the information. Could be possible to bypass the iBasso D1 buffer sockets with the dual dummy Op-Amp adapter (see attached picture) that Dr. Xin sells? Which are the buffer sockets input/outputs pins that I need to jumper?

 Thanks,_

 

The dual dummies should work just fine. One needs to jumper pins 1-3 & 5-7 for dual opamp sockets. 

 There is a picture on the FAQ sticky here: 

http://www.fixup.net/talk/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37

 Scroll down until you see the picture of the socket with red jumper wires.


----------



## bpfiguer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The dual dummies should work just fine. One needs to jumper pins 1-3 & 5-7 for dual opamp sockets. 

 There is a picture on the FAQ sticky here: 

http://www.fixup.net/talk/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37

 Scroll down until you see the picture of the socket with red jumper wires._

 

Thank you very much for the details, now I understand how to jumper the sockets.


----------



## souperman

Hey, I was wondering if everybody with a D1 could try this out. Whenever I have my headphones plugged in, and I turn on my D1, I hear a large thump a few seconds it's powered on. I'm assuming that's the D1 checking for all the inputs/outputs. I leave it on for like 10 seconds, and then I turn it off. I hear another thump, and then 5-10 seconds later I hear a high pitched noise that ascends in frequency until it disappears (this happens for only about a second). I'm wondering if everyone else experiences this or is it just me? Thanks.

 Edit: Oh yeah, this happens at whatever volume.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

I get the thumps too. I'm afraid it might spoil my headphones in the long run...


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I get the thumps too. I'm afraid it might spoil my headphones in the long run... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The thumps shouldn't do anything bad, but I don't know about the whistling. Do you get the whistling too?


----------



## jamato8

This is normal and part of the circuit using the chip that searches how the inputs/outputs are being used. iBasso says they can not do anything about this and suggest that headphones be left disconnected until the D1 has been turned on.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is normal and part of the circuit using the chip that searches how the inputs/outputs are being used. iBasso says they can not do anything about this and suggest that headphones be left disconnected until the D1 has been turned on._

 

Are you talking about the little whistle at the end too? The whistling comes after I turn it off.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is normal and part of the circuit using the chip that searches how the inputs/outputs are being used. iBasso says they can not do anything about this and suggest that headphones be left disconnected until the D1 has been turned on._

 

Hmm... that goes against the usual of leaving the headphone plugged in, but at zero volume and increasing it gradually to listening levels... Oh well. It's no big deal.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you talking about the little whistle at the end too? The whistling comes after I turn it off._

 

I don't hear the whistle. But I get the thumps.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_iBasso says they can not do anything about this and suggest that headphones be left disconnected until the D1 has been turned on._

 

But even if I do this, when inserting the headphone, I get lots of static and some crackling sound. Does this also not spoil the headphones?


----------



## jamato8

I don't know. I haven't heard any whistling except when women to by, I wish. :^)


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't hear the whistle. But I get the thumps.



 But even if I do this, when inserting the headphone, I get lots of static and some crackling sound. Does this also not spoil the headphones? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

How soon do you plug in the headphones? If you wait 30 seconds there should be no problem.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Okay... it seems like my D1 is a bit faulty, too. When I let it burn-in by itself and come back, it stops playing.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay... it seems like my D1 is a bit faulty, too. When I let it burn-in by itself and come back, it stops playing._

 

What do you mean, "when you come back"? I have read of some problems with the usb but it was the usb in the computer and not the D1 that was the problem.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't hear the whistle. But I get the thumps.



 But even if I do this, when inserting the headphone, I get lots of static and some crackling sound. Does this also not spoil the headphones? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Depending on the opamp installed, the whistle is a brief period of instability or oscillation as the the voltage is applied thru the caps. Once the voltage stabilizes, so does the opamp output. Not all opamps do this, but uncompensated ones tend to be a little less stable than compensated. Likewise, opamps with a very high slew rate also tend toward instability upon initial turn-on. 

 It should cause no operational problems at all, as long as it settles down quickly.


----------



## wrecked_porsche

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How soon do you plug in the headphones? If you wait 30 seconds there should be no problem._

 

Oh... 30 seconds. I've only been waiting about 7 seconds or so, just enough time for that whizz pop bang sound to go away, then I plug it in. Then I still get some fuzzy crap like static or something. 
 K, I'll wait about 30 seconds the next time. Thanks for the tip. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay... it seems like my D1 is a bit faulty, too. When I let it burn-in by itself and come back, it stops playing._

 

This is exactly what that led me to find out about my usb problem I was talking about. It all started because I got annoyed that my foobar2k stopped playing by itself when I left it to burn in. Did some investigating and found the problem to be the mini usb.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you mean, "when you come back"? I have read of some problems with the usb but it was the usb in the computer and not the D1 that was the problem._

 

What have you read about? I'm curious... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 My problem is on the amp side too... was talking about it about 2 pages back. Seems now he(Schalldämpfer) has the same problem as me too.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wrecked_porsche* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is exactly what that led me to find out about my usb problem I was talking about. It all started because I got annoyed that my foobar2k stopped playing by itself when I left it to burn in. Did some investigating and found the problem to be the mini usb.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The mini USB on the cable or the jack on the D1 itself?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know. I haven't heard any whistling except when women to by, I wish. :^)_

 

Hm what do you suspect is wrong then? It's like a little whine for like half a second as if it was expelling electrons. I don't even know why I think it sounds like expelling electrons but it just does. It's an quick ascending electrical whine. I hear a pop first before it whines.


----------



## jamato8

HiFlight addressed this in an above post. Some opamps require a 10 to 20 pico farad cap used. If you wait 30 seconds before plugging in your headphones there should be no problem. 

 The static will also be no problem if you wait for the caps to settle by waiting 30 seconds or se before plugging in your headphones.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Hey, wrecked_porsche, I'll start another thread on D1 problems, so we don't have to interfere with the opamp rolling discussions.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

It might be nice to keep it all in this "reference thread", just a thought.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It might be nice to keep it all in this "reference thread", just a thought._

 

Ah... sorry, but I already made another thread...

 Oh, and is there background noise in the stock configuration? I can't tell if I have a mild case of tinnitus or if it's the D1.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Depending on the opamp installed, the whistle is a brief period of instability or oscillation as the the voltage is applied thru the caps. Once the voltage stabilizes, so does the opamp output. Not all opamps do this, but uncompensated ones tend to be a little less stable than compensated. Likewise, opamps with a very high slew rate also tend toward instability upon initial turn-on. 

 It should cause no operational problems at all, as long as it settles down quickly._

 

I'm using the OP275 as LR, AD8397's as buffers, and AD8656. Which of those is the culprit for the high pitched whine after I shut off the D1?


----------



## HiFlight

I spent considerable time this evening going thru my best-sounding single-channel DIP opamps, at least the ones that had performed exceptionally well in my Xin SuperMacro amps. 

 I also re-installed the AD8397 buffers to provide the most output power for low-impedance phones, although I used my high-impedance HD-650s for the evaluations. 

 Although the LMH6643 is a very nice buffer, the AD8397 is tops for current output capability. Either will work quite well. If output current is not a consideration, perhaps use of the LM4562 or LME49720 would be satisfactory or simply bypassing the buffers would be another choice. I just wanted the max possible output current to benchmark these opamps. 

 No consideration was given to battery endurance when using these opamps. They all draw a fairly high quiescent current. 

 The opamps evaluated, using 2>1 adapters, were: 

 AD794, AD743, LT1028, OPA627 and OPA637. 

 The LT1028 was immediately discarded because of consistant startup oscillation, (whistling that has previously been noticed and discussed with some opamp configurations)

 The OPA637 just sounded unremarkable. It is a touchy opamp, and doesn't work well with loads that exhibit high values of capacitance or with gains less than 5. Whatever the reason, it just didn't ring the bell! 

 The AD743 sounded superb, as always, even though it is an opamp most commonly used in sonar and IR applications. It had the sweetest treble of any of the opamps. Nice smooth sound, not punchy but accurate, neutral, and very listenable. 

 The AD797 had the most punch in the low end and the biggest sound. Soundstage was closer to the listener than the others. 

 The OPA 627 lived up to its reputation...The bass was very detailed, kick drums really sounded like kick drums. Soundstage was slightly further away than the other opamps. Highs were very nice but not quite the equal of the 743. This opamp sounds its best with complex orchestral music or vocals, and did better than any of the others with pipe organ selections. 

 These 3 opamps are probably too close in performance for me to call an overall winner, as each excelled in one particular area. I will probably listen to each for a more extended period of time before selecting my own personal favorite. 

 At this point, however, for the type of music I most enjoy, the OPA627 is probably ahead by a nose!


 Addendum: 

 I retried the above opamps using the LME49720 as buffers. IMO, there is inadequate output current when using this opamp as a buffer to drive inefficient phones to an acceptable level of volume. 

 I then substituted the LMH6643 for the LME49720. It works well in all respects and requires only about 1/3 the current of the AD8397. I do think it is a little smoother than the 8397, but does not have quite the bass punch. I guess one could call it a little more neutral overall. Again, the choice of buffer really depends on the listeners preferences.


----------



## jamato8

Boy Ron, you move faster than a flea on a dog's back. I didn't expect the 627 to show up.


----------



## HiFlight

Me either, but you know, "enquiring minds want..." etc!

 I just proves to me what a versatile amp the D1 really is. I had many more stability issues with my SuperMacro amps, especially the -IV models. 

 For some reason the AD743 is never mentioned in rolling threads, but it is one of the top sounding opamps available, IMO. Maybe it is just largely unknown in audiophile and DIY circles.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For some reason the AD743 is never mentioned in rolling threads, but it is one of the top sounding opamps available, IMO. Maybe it is just largely unknown in audiophile and DIY circles._

 

I never read of it. You are on the cutting edge for headphone opamp implementation!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never read of it. You are on the cutting edge for headphone opamp implementation!_

 

Here is a link to the datasheet:

http://ist-socrates.berkeley.edu/~ph...iles/ad743.pdf


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I spent considerable time this evening going thru my best-sounding single-channel DIP opamps, at least the ones that had performed exceptionally well in my Xin SuperMacro amps. 

 I also re-installed the AD8397 buffers to provide the most output power for low-impedance phones, although I used my high-impedance HD-650s for the evaluations. 

 Although the LMH6643 is a very nice buffer, the AD8397 is tops for current output capability. Either will work quite well. If output current is not a consideration, perhaps use of the LM4562 or LME49720 would be satisfactory or simply bypassing the buffers would be another choice. I just wanted the max possible output current to benchmark these opamps. 

 No consideration was given to battery endurance when using these opamps. They all draw a fairly high quiescent current. 

 The opamps evaluated, using 2>1 adapters, were: 

 AD794, AD743, LT1028, OPA627 and OPA637. 

 The LT1028 was immediately discarded because of consistant startup oscillation, (whistling that has previously been noticed and discussed with some opamp configurations)

 The OPA637 just sounded unremarkable. It is a touchy opamp, and doesn't work well with loads that exhibit high values of capacitance or with gains less than 5. Whatever the reason, it just didn't ring the bell! 

 The AD743 sounded superb, as always, even though it is an opamp most commonly used in sonar and IR applications. It had the sweetest treble of any of the opamps. Nice smooth sound, not punchy but accurate, neutral, and very listenable. 

 The AD797 had the most punch in the low end and the biggest sound. Soundstage was closer to the listener than the others. 

 The OPA 627 lived up to its reputation...The bass was very detailed, kick drums really sounded like kick drums. Soundstage was slightly further away than the other opamps. Highs were very nice but not quite the equal of the 743. This opamp sounds its best with complex orchestral music or vocals, and did better than any of the others with pipe organ selections. 

 These 3 opamps are probably too close in performance for me to call an overall winner, as each excelled in one particular area. I will probably listen to each for a more extended period of time before selecting my own personal favorite. 

 At this point, however, for the type of music I most enjoy, the OPA627 is probably ahead by a nose!


 Addendum: 

 I retried the above opamps using the LME49720 as buffers. IMO, there is inadequate output current when using this opamp as a buffer to drive inefficient phones to an acceptable level of volume. 

 I then substituted the LMH6643 for the LME49720. It works well in all respects and requires only about 1/3 the current of the AD8397. I do think it is a little smoother than the 8397, but does not have quite the bass punch. I guess one could call it a little more neutral overall. Again, the choice of buffer really depends on the listeners preferences._

 

Nice.

 So, this means you understand why I have been a little slow to try anything other than 8397 in the buffers? I have the 6643 to try as well, and the AD797 in a 2-1 is on it's way.

 Now, try the OPA2111 with the AD8397 buffers and tell me what you think?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice.

 So, this means you understand why I have been a little slow to try anything other than 8397 in the buffers? I have the 6643 to try as well, and the AD797 in a 2-1 is on it's way.

 Now, try the OPA2111 with the AD8397 buffers and tell me what you think?_

 

The OPA2111 sounds very good with the AD8397 buffers. The best characteristics of both are exhibited.


----------



## jamato8

I have been on the move lately so I have listening to just the iRiver 120 with line out to my Xin Reverence and the sound is very good. Last night after getting a little more settled I broke out the D1 and though the previous combo was/is very good I immediately heard the difference. With the optical out to the D1 there was more space, transparency and general sound improvement of at least my subjective impression of 20 percent or more. This is not that the Reverence isn't great but that using the optical out of the iRiver to the external dac to the D1 amp is just more pleasing. I can get much the same when using the Reverence and D1 dac but the all in one D1 ability to produce excellent open, 3D, dynamic sound is a real pleasure for me. Remember I have changed out the caps for Black Gates and of course the opamps are not stock.


----------



## StevieDvd

I'm getting close to having all my gear sorted now. I finally swapped the default opamps from my D1 with the AD8397 buffers and OPA2111 L/R and the difference between them is remarkable and more akin to my personal preferences. 

 The soundstage is demonstrably wider but with no less detail and no discernable loss of highs or lows. In fact when I swap opamps I tend to make the first listen with a pair of sacrificial headphones (just in case) so grabbed the old AKG26P from my diy drawer. The opamp pairing above certainly kicked some life back into these old cans, though the bass was a tad overdone which is the cans fault (and why they are relegated to the drawer).

 I think I'll be leaving these opamps in for quite a while to see how they bed in and hold off the AD8066 for some time whilst I get used to the sound.

 The source for the D1 is an Iriver H120 using the optical out. Since it is for a work setup I'm still trying out different headphones to meet the work criteria. Unfortunately I get so many interruptions it means iem's are generally out of the question, as are most full sized headphones. I need a pair of small closed cans which don't fold up every time you take them off to respond to someone.

 I don't doubt that there could be a better pairing for my personal preferences but I'm not over keen on a massive opamp test. So I'd like to just add my thanks to Ron (Hiflight) for moving my D1 up several notches in quality and musical fit for purpose. 

 I'm off to get one of those mini optical cables to tidy the setup a little.

 Thanks to the contributors of this thread and in particular to Hiflight - may your opamp rolling continue to even more dizzy heights.

 Steve


----------



## Schalldampfer

Oh goodness... newbie opamp roller here with a question.

 Where do I put in my opmaps?

 Currently I have...
 AD746JN0709, LME49720NA, AD746JN #0730, 6234, another LME49720NA, but on a raised platform and an OPA2111KP.


----------



## Nine'

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm using the OP275 as LR, AD8397's as buffers, and AD8656. Which of those is the culprit for the high pitched whine after I shut off the D1?_

 

I'm using that exact configuration without issues w/ my MylarThree's, except 4841-2 instead of the OPA275 if that helps.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StevieDvd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm getting close to having all my gear sorted now. I finally swapped the default opamps from my D1 with the AD8397 buffers and OPA2111 L/R and the difference between them is remarkable and more akin to my personal preferences. 

 The soundstage is demonstrably wider but with no less detail and no discernable loss of highs or lows. In fact when I swap opamps I tend to make the first listen with a pair of sacrificial headphones (just in case) so grabbed the old AKG26P from my diy drawer. The opamp pairing above certainly kicked some life back into these old cans, though the bass was a tad overdone which is the cans fault (and why they are relegated to the drawer).

 I think I'll be leaving these opamps in for quite a while to see how they bed in and hold off the AD8066 for some time whilst I get used to the sound.

 The source for the D1 is an Iriver H120 using the optical out. Since it is for a work setup I'm still trying out different headphones to meet the work criteria. Unfortunately I get so many interruptions it means iem's are generally out of the question, as are most full sized headphones. I need a pair of small closed cans which don't fold up every time you take them off to respond to someone.

 I don't doubt that there could be a better pairing for my personal preferences but I'm not over keen on a massive opamp test. So I'd like to just add my thanks to Ron (Hiflight) for moving my D1 up several notches in quality and musical fit for purpose. 

 I'm off to get one of those mini optical cables to tidy the setup a little.

 Thanks to the contributors of this thread and in particular to Hiflight - may your opamp rolling continue to even more dizzy heights.

 Steve_

 

I own almost all the opamps that HiFlight and Jamato8 have tried or recommended, and your setup - AD8397 buffers and OPA2111 L/R - is the first and only combination I have bothered to try yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'll still have to try the 6241HV LR/6643 buffer "low power tube sound", and then the AD797 with 8397 buffers and jumpered...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I forget, which opamp combo was the one that has the analog input matching the level of using the DAC?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh goodness... newbie opamp roller here with a question.

 Where do I put in my opmaps?

 Currently I have...
 AD746JN0709, LME49720NA, AD746JN #0730, 6234, another LME49720NA, but on a raised platform and an OPA2111KP._

 

The OPA2111 as LR, 6234 in DAC, LME49720NA as buffers.

 (or AD746 as LR but I don't know the diff between 0709 or 0730 version)

 See the photos in post @1 - the LR is closest to the side and has an AD823 in it, with the two buffers inboard with NE5222 in them, and the DAC closer to the rear with an AD8616 in it.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Oh great... do the hex bolts on the back need to be removed, too?

 I'm having a pretty hard time removing the casing.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh great... do the hex bolts on the back need to be removed, too?

 I'm having a pretty hard time removing the casing._

 

No, it is very easy...just remove the small phillips screw on the back and the 4 front hex screws. No need to remove the back hex screws. Until you remove the phillips in the rear, you will be unable to remove the board. 

 Once the 4 fronts and the rear phillips are out, the board slides out from the front very easily. Be careful you don't let it fall out. Nothing will pop out or come loose. Very easy task. 

 Make sure you draw a diagram of the opamps that are installed before removing them, as this help in orienting the new ones correctly. 

 The number one pin on the Browndog adapters is marked with a square solder pad rather than round as the remaining 7 are marked. 

 The square pad on the L&R and Buffers point toward the center of the amp. The square pad on the DAC points to the front of the amp. 

 Enjoy!!!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I forget, which opamp combo was the one that has the analog input matching the level of using the DAC?_

 

None of them match up the analog and DAC volume levels. The DAC signal that is input to the amplifier section is a pretty highlevel signal. Mismatch is normal.


----------



## HiFlight

Due to the many requests I have had regarding the single-channel to dual adapters, I will make available a set that contains a socketed 2-1 adapter plus 2 dual channel jumpered bypass sockets. This will allow the use of many different singles without needing many adapters and permanent soldering. One bypass socket can also be used to bypass the LR if one wants to experiment using a preamp/poweramp configuration. 

 As this is a service of convenience provided to Head-Fi members and NOT a business or profit-making venture, I will not be providing any single channel opamps. It is simply too expensive to try to provide a selection not knowing what will be used. One can often pick up pairs quite inexpensively via Ebay. 

 For those who desire further information, please email me at: 

HiFlight@hotmail.com

 Thanks...


----------



## Schalldampfer

Whooo! I just installed them, and WOW! I DIDN'T KNOW HEADPHONES COULD DO THIS! Thank you for the instructions, HeadphoneAddict, and HiFlight!


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I spent considerable time this evening going thru my best-sounding single-channel DIP opamps, at least the ones that had performed exceptionally well in my Xin SuperMacro amps. 

 I also re-installed the AD8397 buffers to provide the most output power for low-impedance phones, although I used my high-impedance HD-650s for the evaluations. 

 Although the LMH6643 is a very nice buffer, the AD8397 is tops for current output capability. Either will work quite well. If output current is not a consideration, perhaps use of the LM4562 or LME49720 would be satisfactory or simply bypassing the buffers would be another choice. I just wanted the max possible output current to benchmark these opamps. 

 No consideration was given to battery endurance when using these opamps. They all draw a fairly high quiescent current. 

 The opamps evaluated, using 2>1 adapters, were: 

 AD794, AD743, LT1028, OPA627 and OPA637. 

 The LT1028 was immediately discarded because of consistant startup oscillation, (whistling that has previously been noticed and discussed with some opamp configurations)

 The OPA637 just sounded unremarkable. It is a touchy opamp, and doesn't work well with loads that exhibit high values of capacitance or with gains less than 5. Whatever the reason, it just didn't ring the bell! 

 The AD743 sounded superb, as always, even though it is an opamp most commonly used in sonar and IR applications. It had the sweetest treble of any of the opamps. Nice smooth sound, not punchy but accurate, neutral, and very listenable. 

 The AD797 had the most punch in the low end and the biggest sound. Soundstage was closer to the listener than the others. 

 The OPA 627 lived up to its reputation...The bass was very detailed, kick drums really sounded like kick drums. Soundstage was slightly further away than the other opamps. Highs were very nice but not quite the equal of the 743. This opamp sounds its best with complex orchestral music or vocals, and did better than any of the others with pipe organ selections. 

 These 3 opamps are probably too close in performance for me to call an overall winner, as each excelled in one particular area. I will probably listen to each for a more extended period of time before selecting my own personal favorite. 

 At this point, however, for the type of music I most enjoy, the OPA627 is probably ahead by a nose!


 Addendum: 

 I retried the above opamps using the LME49720 as buffers. IMO, there is inadequate output current when using this opamp as a buffer to drive inefficient phones to an acceptable level of volume. 

 I then substituted the LMH6643 for the LME49720. It works well in all respects and requires only about 1/3 the current of the AD8397. I do think it is a little smoother than the 8397, but does not have quite the bass punch. I guess one could call it a little more neutral overall. Again, the choice of buffer really depends on the listeners preferences._

 

nice one ron.... how do the 3 single opamps compare to those dual opamps config?


----------



## PPkiller

i notice there is a OPA627BP and OPA627AP on TI website... which one did you use? OPA627BP seems to be better on specs..


----------



## pianomav

Ok, I finally had the chance to switch the opamps on my D1 and all i can say is "WOW", what a big difference in sound quality! Makes me think on why ibasso wouldn't use these opamps right off the bat. 

 Rolling the opamps is definitely a 'must' on the D1 to unleash its full potential, IMO. Thanks for the great info guys! Now time to enjoy this little gem...


----------



## jamato8

There are so many combinations of opamps to try it would be hard for iBasso to know all or even the "best" combination. There are less opamps available in China, which makes it difficult to explore these combinations as we are doing here. I am glad that the D1 is stable with so many different opamps and that they used sockets. Also, that the D1 responds so well to opamps with notable changes in sound, to me, is exciting and rewarding.


----------



## StevieDvd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whooo! I just installed them, and WOW! I DIDN'T KNOW HEADPHONES COULD DO THIS! Thank you for the instructions, HeadphoneAddict, and HiFlight!_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pianomav* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I finally had the chance to switch the opamps on my D1 and all i can say is "WOW", what a big difference in sound quality! Makes me think on why ibasso wouldn't use these opamps right off the bat. 

 Rolling the opamps is definitely a 'must' on the D1 to unleash its full potential, IMO. Thanks for the great info guys! Now time to enjoy this little gem..._

 

These are the posts that make head-fi great for me. The satisfaction that sharing a little bit of knowledge can increase the listening pleasure at little cost is priceless. Big credit to the likes of HiFlight, Jamato8, HeadphoneAddict , Jude of course and the makers of the database software, the inventor of the web and not forgetting my mother


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i notice there is a OPA627BP and OPA627AP on TI website... which one did you use? OPA627BP seems to be better on specs.._

 

Mine are the OPA627BP


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pianomav* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I finally had the chance to switch the opamps on my D1 and all i can say is "WOW", what a big difference in sound quality! Makes me think on why ibasso wouldn't use these opamps right off the bat. 

 Rolling the opamps is definitely a 'must' on the D1 to unleash its full potential, IMO. Thanks for the great info guys! Now time to enjoy this little gem..._

 

The iBasso folks told me that they have much difficulty in sourcing high-quality parts, such as caps, opamps, etc. What we have readily available is often not available to them as easily, and in some cases, not available at all. They are evaluating some of the opamps that I have shipped to them. 

 They are very responsive and appreciative of all of our efforts with the D1. They also have some upcoming plans that will be of interest to many of us. I suspect they will announce them in due time. 

 Were it not for my appreciation of their efforts and superb support, I would not have spent so much time trying to improve the performance of the D1. The basic design of the D1 is one of the best I have seen. 

 I can certainly appreciate iBassos frustration with trying to make a first-class product, but being hindered by the limited selection of quality parts. I am sure that they will find a solution to this situation.


----------



## HiFlight

Deleted due to duplicate post


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can certainly appreciate iBassos frustration with trying to make a first-class product, but being hindered by the limited selection of quality parts. I am sure that they will find a solution to this situation._

 

Would it be too much for them to make an overseas branch? That could work.


----------



## idunno

I have a feeling this is the beginning of a long, wonderful journey for me. I just received my D1 tonight--my first headamp!

 I'm new to the audio world, but am definitely hooked already. In my naivite I'm impressed with the D1 straight out of the box... I'm eager to burn in the unit, and to roll some opamps. I'm going to try to be patient and get 300-400 hours on the device before changing anything, but I may not be able to hold out.

 The D1 now has me up long past my "bed time" after one of the most grueling work days I can remember, and tomorrow not looking better. I just can't stop listening....

 I just wanted to share my excitement, though I'm coming late to the party. I would very much like to thank all those here, especially jamato8 and HiFlight, for their exhaustive efforts with the D1. Reading the accounts of your efforts not only convinced me to purchase the D1, but were key contributors to my decision to try a headamp at all. Now I am beginning to realize that this is just the beginning--that my newfound appreciation of high quality audio will take me to new and exciting places for years to come. Yes, my wallet is already running in terror, but kidding aside, my thanks to all for helping open the door to this world for me.

 apologies for my verbosity....


----------



## PPkiller

hiflight, how does the opa627 fare with and without buffer? will you recommend using it without any buffer?


----------



## pianomav

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *idunno* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a feeling this is the beginning of a long, wonderful journey for me. I just received my D1 tonight--my first headamp!

 I'm new to the audio world, but am definitely hooked already. In my naivite I'm impressed with the D1 straight out of the box... I'm eager to burn in the unit, and to roll some opamps. I'm going to try to be patient and get 300-400 hours on the device before changing anything, but I may not be able to hold out.

 The D1 now has me up long past my "bed time" after one of the most grueling work days I can remember, and tomorrow not looking better. I just can't stop listening....

 I just wanted to share my excitement, though I'm coming late to the party. I would very much like to thank all those here, especially jamato8 and HiFlight, for their exhaustive efforts with the D1. Reading the accounts of your efforts not only convinced me to purchase the D1, but were key contributors to my decision to try a headamp at all. Now I am beginning to realize that this is just the beginning--that my newfound appreciation of high quality audio will take me to new and exciting places for years to come. Yes, my wallet is already running in terror, but kidding aside, my thanks to all for helping open the door to this world for me.

 apologies for my verbosity...._

 


 Welcome aboard... you did good in picking a good amp/dac as a start. I have both a full balanced amps (gs-x) and a dac/amp (DAC1) but the D1 competes pretty well with these units... In fact the D1 is getting more attention lately that the gs-x is getting a little jealous


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StevieDvd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_These are the posts that make head-fi great for me. The satisfaction that sharing a little bit of knowledge can increase the listening pleasure at little cost is priceless. Big credit to the likes of HiFlight, Jamato8, HeadphoneAddict , Jude of course and the makers of the database software, the inventor of the web and not forgetting my mother 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Didn't Al Gore say he invented the internet


----------



## Ranma13

My initial impression with the LM4562's, OPA2111, and AD8656 is that the bass slam is amazing. It manages to really bring out the bass in my D5000. But it doesn't seem to do much for the mids and highs though, at least not as noticeably as the lows. I think I know why people said the D5000 gives a bass that makes you feel like you're wearing subwoofers.


----------



## Deathwish238

*D1 or 0404...which has a nicer DAC sq wise?*


----------



## Capunk

I been spending time with OP2111/LM4562/AD8656, and I can't hold it anymore... I don't like it. 

 I much prefer AD8616 stay as the default DAC OPamp, since it give me, punchier bass, and more energetic sound. While since I change it to AD8656, my ears keep warm all the time, simply less relaxing than before. =( 

 I notice high differences when I change the old AD823 to OP2111, and then, after I switch the buffer from NE5532 to LM4562, the sound getting much clearer, but with a trade off... less punchier bass. And now combined with AD8656.... omg, this amp totally too warm for me. 

 I need something more neutral, punchier, and energetic.


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need something more neutral, punchier, and energetic._

 

Have you given the AD8397s a try in the buffers?


----------



## Capunk

That's the problem, 
 I don't have AD8397 atm, but my Xin SM III V6 has it - inside. 
 If it's sound like that (as buffer), I might prefer different opamps, or I will have 2 different amp with similar sound


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's the problem, 
 I don't have AD8397 atm, but my Xin SM III V6 has it - inside. 
 If it's sound like that (as buffer), I might prefer different opamps, or I will have 2 different amp with similar sound 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You REALLY need to try the AD8397 as buffers. Buffer changes make a huge difference, then you will appreciate the 8656 in the DAC, or try the AD6234 in the DAC.

 Here is what highflight had to say about the following opamps and buffers, which support you trying the AD8397 as buffers - you may also want to sub the OPA2111 for an AD8066 in LR to get the sound you want (strong bass good mids):

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* 
_OPA2111: Very wide and expansive soundstage, very dimensional. 
 AD8066: Strong bass, good mids, good soundstage depth.
 ADA4841-2: Well balanced throughout the spectrum, sweet highs. 

 They all work very well with both buffers, just a matter of individual taste. The differences are relatively small, with subtle tonal and soundstage variations. *The 8397 is slightly more assertive, the 4562 somewhat more intimate.*_

 

In some chatting I did with Ron (HiFlight) I learned this:

  Quote:


 The LMH 6643 is the 3rd choice for the buffer sockets, making the choice for buffer: 

*AD8397: (bold, works well for rock, most output power)*

 LMH6643: Smooth, warm, (nice with bright phones)

 LME49720: Nice frequency balance, superb soundstage. *Great choice for instrumental and complex harmonies. [this is an upgrade from LM4562]*

 ...the LT6234 is superb in the DAC. It renders a bit more detail with transients than does the AD8656. Both, however do a really good job. 

 You might do better offering the LM4562 on ebay or the Head-Fi classified as I am preferring the *LME49720 for buffers over the LM4562. It is a slightly warmer version of the LM4562 with better soundstage.* There are loads of people who like the LM4562, so it should be easy to sell. 

 The lowest current draw combo is either the LT6234 or ADA4841-2 for LR, LMH6643 for buffers, and LT6234 for DAC. I am personally using the AD746 for LR, the LME49720 for buffers, and the LT6243 for DAC. 

 If power considerations are ignored, the OPA2111 is still right up at the top as well. 
 

Also, do you like the SM III V6 sound, or not and you want to move away from that sound?


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deathwish238* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*D1 or 0404...which has a nicer DAC sq wise?*_

 

D1?


----------



## Deathwish238

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_D1?_

 

A little more depth would be appreciated...


----------



## PPkiller

the problem with 0404 is you can't change the opamp used within. while for D1, you can upgrade the opamp for better sound or find 1 that suit your taste best...


----------



## mrarroyo

Has anyone used the AD8599 as a buffer?


----------



## Deathwish238

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the problem with 0404 is you can't change the opamp used within. while for D1, you can upgrade the opamp for better sound or find 1 that suit your taste best..._

 

Well I wouldn't be changing out any opamps...what I buy is what I'll be getting


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deathwish238* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I wouldn't be changing out any opamps...what I buy is what I'll be getting_

 

That's unfortunate...


----------



## viator36

Where can I buy OPA627BP? None of the places I searched (Newark, Digikey, Mouser, etc. plus other places I googled) has it. Yes, I did see the ebay listing that wants over $51 a piece plus shipping. I'll pass that one.

 Thanks.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hiflight, how does the opa627 fare with and without buffer? will you recommend using it without any buffer?_

 

I recommend a buffer of fairly high power. AD8397 sounded very nice with the 627 in the 2-1 adapter. You could also use the LMH6643 and lose just a bit of impact and boldness.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone used the AD8599 as a buffer?_

 

Yes, but it works better in LR. I like more power and higher slew rate for buffers. AD8397 and LMH6643 are hard to beat for buffers if you need to drive low-impedance phones. 

 For higher impedances and especially if they are pretty efficient phones, the LME49720 is a very nice sounding opamp buffer. They have limited output power though.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, but it works better in LR. I like more power and higher slew rate for buffers. AD8397 and LMH6643 are hard to beat for buffers if you need to drive low-impedance phones. 

 For higher impedances and especially if they are pretty efficient phones, the LME49720 is a very nice sounding opamp buffer. They have limited output power though._

 

Ron, using the LMH6643 as a buffer what type of sound to you get w/ the AD8599 in the L/R versus the OPA2111 in the L/R.

 This weekend I am thinking of using the OPA2111 and the AD8599 in the DAC. Have you tried it? I also wonder if using the AD8656 in the L/R would yield a nice sound while using the LHM4562 or the LMH6643 in the buffer.

 While doing the above experiments I may try the AD823 back in the L/R using the LMH6643 and the LHM4562 as buffers.

 Maybe we should get together w/ Vorlon1 to try those combinations.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ron, using the LMH6643 as a buffer what type of sound to you get w/ the AD8599 in the L/R versus the OPA2111 in the L/R.

 This weekend I am thinking of using the OPA2111 and the AD8599 in the DAC. Have you tried it? I also wonder if using the AD8656 in the L/R would yield a nice sound while using the LHM4562 or the LMH6643 in the buffer.

 While doing the above experiments I may try the AD823 back in the L/R using the LMH6643 and the LHM4562 as buffers.

 Maybe we should get together w/ Vorlon1 to try those combinations. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 The AD8599 sounds quite good in either LR or DAC. Not as dramatic a soundstage as 2111, but nicely balanced and clean. 

 If you use the AD8656 in LR, you will hear one loud pop when you turn the amp on, then you throw that opamp away. It is rated at 6 vdc while the LR socket outputs about 8.3 vdc. The pop has a nice wide soundstage with lots of detail though!


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deathwish238* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I wouldn't be changing out any opamps...what I buy is what I'll be getting_

 


 go with the D1...

 i once own a 0404 usb.. the headphone out is not that impressive...


----------



## smittysan89

Has anybody tried the Macbook Pro to iBasso d1 to HD650?

 Impressions?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smittysan89* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anybody tried the Macbook Pro to iBasso d1 to HD650?

 Impressions?_

 

Macbook > iBasso D1 > HD600

 Does that count? If so, it is highly recommended. The iBasso makes for a great DAC on the Macbook (optical or USB), and with rolled opamps it gets even better - it goes from great to outstanding.

 I did a test of the inexpensive but good Headstage USB DAC and compared it to the iBasso. They both improved the sound, but the iBasso stood above the crowd (at 6x the cost it better be better). http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...5&goto=newpost


----------



## Deathwish238

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's unfortunate..._

 

Wow I just learned that replacing OPAMPs doesn't require soldering. If that's true...then yeah I'ld be up for changing out OPAMPs.


----------



## Capunk

Wow, thanks for huge responses. 
 Yeah, I've been wondering, should I change the LM4562 to AD8397, and even change OP2111 to 8066, this is jamato combination is it? 

 AD8397 in my SMIII sound quite fast, big, but I found cymbal sounds sometimes hurt my ear. So today I change it to LCT6421, so it sound much warmer, although the bass slightly less noticeable? 

 I've tried LCT6421 (LR) with OP275x 2 (BUF) and AD8656 (DAC), the result... everything become so mellow... not energetic at all. I guess this is not my type eh?


----------



## antonyfirst

I'd be happy if Ibasso came out with a better DAC for the D1. Something of the quality of the DAC in the Pico, for example (which I've read is awesome).


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *antonyfirst* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd be happy if Ibasso came out with a better DAC for the D1. Something of the quality of the DAC in the Pico, for example (which I've read is awesome)._

 

u mean pico DAC chip is better then the DAC chip in D1?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I thought pico is like $500 without the DAC option, isn't it? If so, it'd better be nicer. But, I think the iBasso DAC is better than any in my house except for maybe my Denon AV Receiver.


----------



## Deathwish238

Anyone know if the new D1 will go up in price at all?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought pico is like $500 without the DAC option, isn't it? If so, it'd better be nicer. But, I think the iBasso DAC is better than any in my house except for maybe my Denon AV Receiver._

 

Denons have good DACs? I haven't tried out my AVR-3805...although I'm not sure what the best source to connect the the 3805 would be. What do you use?


----------



## willisv

Right now my favorite combination of all is ADA 4841-2 for L/R, AD8397 for buffers, and AD8656 in the DAC. I just tried the 8066 with this same combination and it sounds good but no comparison to the 4841-2 for my tastes. I will have to order some LMH6643 and try them out. I also installed all the same blackgate and sanyo caps that jamato did and I am very happy with the results, but still burning them in.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Deathwish238* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know if the new D1 will go up in price at all?


 Denons have good DACs? I haven't tried out my AVR-3805...although I'm not sure what the best source to connect the the 3805 would be. What do you use?_

 

I use a Samsung (it's either an HD941 or HD940) upconverting DVD with DCDi by Faroudja and optical out for 5.1 digital, and Super Audio CD as well. 

 I plan to get an Oppo DVD player someday for the bedroom - right now I have a crappy Go Video DVD recorder and a Sony D-303 optical out in there.


----------



## pianomav

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *willisv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Right now my favorite combination of all is ADA 4841-2 for L/R, AD8397 for buffers, and AD8656 in the DAC. I just tried the 8066 with this same combination and it sounds good but no comparison to the 4841-2 for my tastes. I will have to order some LMH6643 and try them out. I also installed all the same blackgate and sanyo caps that jamato did and I am very happy with the results, but still burning them in._

 


 How did the caps change the sound signature? More bass? Deeper?


----------



## PFKMan23

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought pico is like $500 without the DAC option, isn't it? If so, it'd better be nicer. But, I think the iBasso DAC is better than any in my house except for maybe my Denon AV Receiver._

 

The Pico is $499 with the DAC option. Without, it is $299.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *justin w.* 
_*If you'd like to pre-order, just post here and let me know. The Pico pre-order pricing will be $299 or $499 with the upsampling USB DAC, plus shipping (about $10 USA, $15 Canada, $20 rest of world for Priority). Some countries may have higher shipping prices, just ask me and I can quote it. No payment is needed until the amps are ready to ship.*_


----------



## willisv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pianomav* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How did the caps change the sound signature? More bass? Deeper?_

 

I'm not very good explaining sound in audiophile terms but after breaking the caps in for 20 hours and listening to it I can honestly say it makes a difference. I would say that it sounds more dynamic and aggressive now than it use to, and there is a lot more detail in the highs. The D1 sounds so good with the op-amp upgrades that I almost hesitated to change the caps, but I'm glad that I did now. One other thing, The 4.7 uf bypass cap on the bottom of the board needs some care installing or it won't fit in the enclosure(very tight fit).


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, you only need 2 AD797s to replace the AD823 Dual that is standard. The L&R channel socket is the one closest to the right edge of the amplifier. There is a single socket (LR), then 3 caps, then 2 side by side buffer sockets. The DAC socket is furthest to the rear of the amp. 

 The standard buffers are NE5532s and the DAC is an AD8616._

 

I just received my new AD797 op amps today! Will need to mount them to the Brown Dog adapters so cannot test them out yet in my new D1.

 Hiflight and all, my new D1 did not come with the same stock DAC op amp that you all have mentioned! My DAC op amp has some fancy symbol looks like the letters LT and then some number after the symbol like this LT719 and on the second row is the lone number 6234. So what op amp is this that I got in mine? I am wondering if it is equivalent to an AD6234 op amp. It does not say "AD" anywhere on it. Hmmmmm


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...If you use the AD8656 in LR, you will hear one loud pop when you turn the amp on, then you throw that opamp away. It is rated at 6 vdc while the LR socket outputs about 8.3 vdc. The pop has a nice wide soundstage with lots of detail though! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Thank God for multimeter!


----------



## mrarroyo

unbiased, click on the thumbnail below and look at the op-amp on the top right. Does your look like it?





 It sounds like: http://www.linear.com/pc/productDeta...riptionSection


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_unbiased, click on the thumbnail below and look at the op-amp on the top right. Does your look like it?





 It sounds like: http://www.linear.com/pc/productDeta...riptionSection_

 

Yessir! That's it! Mine has the same looking symbol but different date or batch code after it. I guess it is an LM6234 then huh? Seems like since HiFlight or members here recommnded it as a superb DAC, maybe iBasso decided to switch over to them!?! Well, I personally am not saying (yet) if it is a superb or better DAC amp than the previous version as I think my iBasso stock and new sounded quite bright and harsh out of the box. Letting the capacitors burn-in to get smoother sound. Then I am going to swap out the capacitors (in time) when I get around to buying them. Thanks for the pictures to clarify the DAC amp I have.


----------



## mrarroyo

I thought you wrote 6234? If yes, then I just ordered some samples of the LT6234.


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought you wrote 6234? If yes, then I just ordered some samples of the LT6234. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, I made a typo there (which I just updated and corrected!). It is 6234 marked on my iBasso D1 DAC op amp. I am not saying that they are good or superb or better or anything though! I just got it and don't know how it wll ultimately compare to all the other op amps I must try out still...!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *unbiased* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just received my new AD797 op amps today! Will need to mount them to the Brown Dog adapters so cannot test them out yet in my new D1.

 Hiflight and all, my new D1 did not come with the same stock DAC op amp that you all have mentioned! My DAC op amp has some fancy symbol looks like the letters LT and then some number after the symbol like this LT719 and on the second row is the lone number 6234. So what op amp is this that I got in mine? I am wondering if it is equivalent to an AD6234 op amp. It does not say "AD" anywhere on it. Hmmmmm
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

It is the LT6234 ....I did suggest to iBasso that they try that opamp in the buffer. Apparently they are able to source those opamps. Much better than AD8616. iBasso is very receptive to input from their customers.


----------



## Ranma13

This might be silly of me to ask (especially since I already switched out the op amps on my D1), but which op amps do which function in the D1? The buffers are easy, they're the only ones that require 2. Am I correct in assuming that the one near the buffers in the DAC? If so, what's the one that's in between the yellow capacitors for?

 P.S. Mine is a LT6234 also, but I switched it out for a OPA2111.


----------



## Dual

The one between the yellow caps is the DAC and the one nearest to the 2 buffers is the L/R channel.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Hi Everyone,

 I'm a long time reader of this site and this is my first post.

 I got my D1 a few weeks back and now just start op amp rolling, currently using OPA2111KP L/R and LM4562 buffer and using stock AD8616 DAC, still waiting on browndog adapter so i can use AD8656ARZ yet. With the 2111 and lm4562 i have notice a great improve over soundstage and more details sound compare to stock settings. 

 Someone a few pages back asked if there is a difference in sound between USB and optical toslink. I say there is a difference, to me using a dvd/cd player optical output to D1 and using laptop FLAC-ASIO USB to D1 i feel that dvd/cd player optical out has a little bit clear sound then usb out from laptop.


 Cheers


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is the LT6234 ....I did suggest to iBasso that they try that opamp in the buffer. Apparently they are able to source those opamps. Much better than AD8616. iBasso is very receptive to input from their customers._

 






(Got all my op amp orders, soldered them all up to appropriate Brown Dog adapters and I've been rolling op amps!) Just found a real nice lush smooth with PRAT combination tonight. Try this combination out:

 DAC amp: Uses 2 AD825 op amps (need Brown Dog adapter)
 LR amp: also Uses 2 AD825 op amps (need Brown Dog adapter)
 Buffers: Using 2 AD8397 op amps.

 This one's kickin **** right now! Not kidding. If you have these op amps give it a listen! I am groovin to the tunes on the otherwise bright harsh sounding iBasso D1 now!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cafe zeenuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...
 Someone a few pages back asked if there is a difference in sound between USB and optical toslink. I say there is a difference, to me using a dvd/cd player optical output to D1 and using laptop FLAC-ASIO USB to D1 i feel that dvd/cd player optical out has a little bit clear sound then usb out from laptop.
_

 

On my Macbook a CD sound better than lossless codec. But, the same CD with optical and USB sounds the same. Likewise with the lossless files - the same file via optical sounds the same as usb.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On my Macbook a CD sound better than lossless codec. But, the same CD with optical and USB sounds the same. Likewise with the lossless files - the same file via optical sounds the same as usb._

 

if you are playing from a computer, the software used will affect the SQ. It is due to how they decode, get it to the sound device driver and to the hardware... even for asio, i have tried a few type... asio4all is not the best in term of sq (most probly due to how the asio is implemented)


----------



## PPkiller

if your source is mp3s, the sq from the following pc softwares will rank as below..

 1. creative media source
 2. foobar2000(useing default directsound)
 3. winamp(useing default directsound)
 4. windows media player(avoid when possible)


 for asio, try the "asio multimedia driver" that is bundled with softwares from http://www.steinberg.net . It is a head better then asio4all in term of SQ.(do note that you need to manually max the *wave* volume in the volume control. somehow the asio implementation is different. But it's noticable better then asio4all)


----------



## Sieg9198

What opamp configuration has the most detail and soundstage currently??


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What opamp configuration has the most detail and soundstage currently??_

 

Interested also.


----------



## Ranma13

I've got some really bad sibilance with my Grado SR-225 using the OPA2111, AD8656, and LM4562. Which op amps would be a good replacement for these that will reduce the sibilance and/or synergize with a RS-1?


----------



## Capunk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sieg9198* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What opamp configuration has the most detail and soundstage currently??_

 

LR: OPA2111
 BUF: LM4562/8397
 DAC: AD8656


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ranma13* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've got some really bad sibilance with my Grado SR-225 using the OPA2111, AD8656, and LM4562. Which op amps would be a good replacement for these that will reduce the sibilance and/or synergize with a RS-1?_

 

Do one change at a time! Since you already have the AD823 put it back in lieu of the OPA2111. See what changes it brings. Note: The AD823 takes many hours of burn in.


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ranma13* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've got some really bad sibilance with my Grado SR-225 using the OPA2111, AD8656, and LM4562. Which op amps would be a good replacement for these that will reduce the sibilance and/or synergize with a RS-1?_

 

So far in my experience, I find that the LM4562 op amp tends to emphasize that upper midrange/lower treble sibilance. So I quit using them. Put them back in the anti-static storage bag and left them there. 

 An op amp that I notice does mellow out the sibilance is the ADA4841-2YRZ op amp (that's the part number I ordered from Newark Electronics). I tried it in the DAC amp socket and the LR socket. It does noticably subdue the highs sibilance inherent in the iBasso D1 more so than any other op amp I have on hand and tried thus far. Which op amps I have tried in the DAC and LR positions is the question you may be wondering? For your reference then, Here in no particular preference or ratings order:

 LT6234 (came stock with my D1 in DAC position)
 LM4562
 OPA2134
 OPA2132
 OPA627 x2 (tames the highs somewhat, but not as much as ADA4841)
 OPA2111-KP
 AD8610 x2 (this is the single op amp version of the AD8620)
 AD8397 
 AD797-ARZ
 AD825-ARZ
 AD8656-ARZ
 AD8066-ARZ

 I have the following op amps but still have not mounted them to Brown Dog adapter to try out. I don't expect the AD8620 to sound much different than its single amp version AD8610 though that I tried out above.

 LMH6643-MA
 AD8620-ARZ

 I also would like to say that all of these op amps don't sound bad at all. It is all what you are after. I personally detect a bit of sibilance in most of the combinatons that I have tried thus far and am searching for the one that least emphasizes that sibilant edge that I hear. It also depends on what headphones you listen to. The iBasso D1 sounds great through Senn HD650's which themselves have a de-emphasized highs range. So it mates well with the HD650's and sounds great. I like my RS1's so I am trying to find the best op amp combo that I like with the RS1's. The RS1's reveal easily the sibilant edge that the iBasso D1 circuit exhibits. It is getting bette with burn-in time though. Since most of all those op amp changes I have tried all seem to still have that sibilance edge to some extent or other, I am coming to the conclusion that it is not all in the op amps themselves causing the edge.
 I believe it is the capacitors sound signature I am hearing that is causing the slight emphasis I detect in the highs. I plan on replacing the audio path coupling capacitors (in time) also to verify this. All together though, the iBasso D1 is sounding great. I just hooked it up to use as a DAC only feeding my other headphone amps and the DAC section (currently populated with an AD825 DAC chip) is impressive. As always, everyones tastes and preferences differ, so YMMV applies here. Have funs and good luck rolling!


----------



## Capunk

Excellent, Unbiased!
 But, what kind of characteristic you're up to, by putting each individual (or dual) opamps in rating order? (Mellow? Punchier? Detailed?)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ranma13* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've got some really bad sibilance with my Grado SR-225 using the OPA2111, AD8656, and LM4562. Which op amps would be a good replacement for these that will reduce the sibilance and/or synergize with a RS-1?_

 

Sawp out the OPA2111 in the LR and try either the ADA4841-2 or LTC6241HV for a more tubelike sound. You could also try the LMH6643 in the LR or in the buffers with one of those two above in LR to help. You can also use the 6643 in the DAC with the same in the buffers, (or stick with the 6234 if you din't a third 6643). This is one of HiFlight's favorites now. This only draws 14ma vs the 43MA of your curent setup as well.

 He found the LME49720 and LMH6643 to be better smoother warmer buffers than the LM4562, so he dropped the 4562 and hasn't gone back. Somehow the AD8397 keep popping up as buffers though, BAM!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Argghhhh!!

 Had one of those little brass sleeves come out with my front buffer opamp, and now I need to transplant it to riser DIP socket and put it back in so it doesn't cause arc'ingbetween socket and opamp (I'll leave riser there forever)..


----------



## mrarroyo

Earlier I took out the LM4562 (2) as buffers and replaced them w/ LMH6643(2). I felt the bottom end was "thicker". I then took the OPA2111 and installed an AD8599. It seem to be both clearer and punchier w/ a tad more extension. Hard to put into words, will let it burn in for a couple of days before I listen again. Man this could drive someone crazy!


----------



## viator36

Would it be advisable as a preventive measure to put an 8-pin socket in each of D1's 4 sockets to prevent this type of damage from happening?

 Link:

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...N_SOCKET_.html


----------



## jamato8

The only thing I don't like is the additional contacts. iBasso could use an inexpensive leaf type socket that is tin plated and it would hold up forever and would actually sound better. 

 The Black Gates have been getting many hours of burn-in time and Monica is getting jealous. The BG's have opened up the D1 even more and given it more of a 3D effect. What bothers me is that with these mods it is sounding, oh I don't like writing this, possibly, well maybe, well possibly better than . . . . . Monica. .. . .


----------



## Schalldampfer

Just wondering... how much was the Monica?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wondering... how much was the Monica?_

 

Monica can not be assigned "how much" but the orignal cost of the kit was around 130 dollars. Then I added my own chips and Black Gates. Monica is a very fine gal, I mean dac and has been compared to some heavy hitters and done well. I really don't want anything to surpass her. . . . you see. . . we go back a ways.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Earlier I took out the LM4562 (2) as buffers and replaced them w/ LMH6643(2). I felt the bottom end was "thicker". I then took the OPA2111 and installed an AD8599. It seem to be both clearer and punchier w/ a tad more extension. Hard to put into words, will let it burn in for a couple of days before I listen again. Man this could drive someone crazy! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I discovered my buffer socket problem (see prev post) when I installed the 6643 in the buffers and they sounded terrible - it was arcing and the brass sleeve was attached to the 8397. Now with the spacer/riser in the one socket, and the 8397 in that and back in the buffers, I'm afraid to change the buffers and listen to the 6643 again. Is it worth it to move from the 8397 as buffers to the 6643?

 I love the OPA2111 in LR, but am now burning in my AD797's - which without any hours on them sound pretty good already. I am using them with the 8397 still in place. I did finally put the 6234 in the DAC, sounds slightly better than the 8656. Wondering if I should try a 6643 in the DAC, or my AD746 in the DAC.

 I did briefly try the 6241HV n the LR, didn't have much time to listen, didn't grab me by the throat and say leave me in.

 Whew!

*BTW, the rolled D1 beats the Meier Headsix and Headstage Lyrix total pro USB when using them all via the D1 DAC (and is soooo close when using analog in now). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



*
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...7&postcount=31

*You have to read that in context of the bigger review that it resides in: *

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=267725


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The 22uf HiQ should work fine. I used the 47uf HiQ 6.3v per the image on the the first page. I also used two 150uf Oscon caps in the power supply section for the dac opamp and the amp opamp. I also bypassed the 470uf ps cap for the buffers with a 4.7 nonpolar red Black Gate. It can also be seen on the images of the first page. 

 The sound after doing all of the Black Gate changes and bypassing I did is warmer, very smooth and detailed and more tube like in the complexity of the sound and analog quality. It takes a few hundred hours for the sound to settle and I was not sure, even after years of experience with BG's, where it would fall but the sound is very natural and organic._

 

jamato.. a question.. what's the benefit of using 4.7uf bypass for the 470uf ps cap? what voltage should the 4.7uf be?


----------



## jamato8

The 4.7 has to be 10 volts or greater but I don't remember the voltage value. Many of the small BG's are 50 volt. The bypass lowers the esr even more and can effect the high frequencies. There can be a resonance frequency set up that will carry along on the DC and you don't want this so byassing is normally done in multiples of tens. 470 to 47 to 4.7 to .47 but I sometimes just one of the multiples can work fine. In this case that is what I had and there is no room for the 47. I am getting a 1500uF BG that should fit in the power supply section and so that cap will change from 470 to 1500. The inductance can also change with the addition of a bypass but that also depends upon the lead length, which is a reason to also use smd caps but there are only a few I would use but there are getting to be some very nice surface mount caps around but I still love BG's but BG's are no longer made and smd eliminates any lead, which is a good thing if the cap is a good quality one for the appplication. Bypassing in the signal path can have a profound effect on sound as the entire freq range can be effected but this can be good or bad. BG's are best bypassed only with BG's but I will bypass other caps with BG's and then listen to see if I like the results but BG's can take 100's of hours to form. Also it should be noted that some prefer to never take the charge off of a BG feeling that the forming proccess has to start all over again. I have found that a few days of being turned on helps but I don't agree that they loose all of the forming the cap has gone through.


----------



## PPkiller

thanks... i think my local shop has 0.47uf nx ... will 4.7 be better or any of them will do since multiple of 10 ?


----------



## willisv

Jamato, did you ever consider bypassing the 47uf nx blackgates with .47uf film caps. I was thinking about getting some Vishay MKP1837 to bypass the coupling caps.


----------



## jamato8

BG's do better bypassed with BG's. I have used very expensive and good films for coupling and frankly, the HiQ BG's can do very fine job. I have teflon, silver, copper and other hi end caps and the BG's never cease to amaze me.


----------



## willisv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BG's do better bypassed with BG's. I have used very expensive and good films for coupling and frankly, the HiQ BG's can do very fine job. I have teflon, silver, copper and other hi end caps and the BG's never cease to amaze me._

 

Thanks jamato, i appreciate the help. I am going to bypass the 47uf BG hi-q's that I installed with either Blackgates .47uf or possibly i may still try the Vishay MKP1837 in a .01 uf because I have heard that they can make any cap sound better. If I end up using the BG's should i use hi-q's or n's? I'm still new at this so any insight would be appreciated.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I discovered my buffer socket problem (see prev post) when I installed the 6643 in the buffers and they sounded terrible - it was arcing and the brass sleeve was attached to the 8397. Now with the spacer/riser in the one socket, and the 8397 in that and back in the buffers, I'm afraid to change the buffers and listen to the 6643 again. Is it worth it to move from the 8397 as buffers to the 6643?

 I love the OPA2111 in LR, but am now burning in my AD797's - which without any hours on them sound pretty good already. I am using them with the 8397 still in place. I did finally put the 6234 in the DAC, sounds slightly better than the 8656. Wondering if I should try a 6643 in the DAC, or my AD746 in the DAC.

 I did briefly try the 6241HV n the LR, didn't have much time to listen, didn't grab me by the throat and say leave me in.

 Whew!

*BTW, the rolled D1 beats the Meier Headsix and Headstage Lyrix total pro USB when using them all via the D1 DAC (and is soooo close when using analog in now). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



*
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...7&postcount=31

*You have to read that in context of the bigger review that it resides in: *

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=267725_

 


 I have listened to the AD8397 on an iBasso D1 for a very short period. I need to listen to them again to see if I prefer them over the LMH6643. Download the picture below to your computer and mark it up w/ the socket that lifted.


----------



## jamato8

The HiQ are the best and last BG's that were designed. If they are available that is what I would use otherwise the N is fine and a very fine cap.


----------



## willisv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The HiQ are the best and last BG's that were designed. If they are available that is what I would use otherwise the N is fine and a very fine cap._

 

Ok thanks, i'll post my impressions once I get them installed.


----------



## oofie810

Anyone know when they will be available again? I'm looking for a good DAC/amp and I read that these are good.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oofie810* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know when they will be available again? I'm looking for a good DAC/amp and I read that these are good._

 

Around mid-November is what I heard.


----------



## oofie810

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Schalldämpfer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Around mid-November is what I heard._

 

Alright! I suddenly have a birthday present for myself.


----------



## nfusion770

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *oofie810* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know when they will be available again? I'm looking for a good DAC/amp and I read that these are good._

 

They are available immediately in my sig line 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 This is a very good sounding amp especially when using the DAC section and extremely flexible. I only used it with the stock opamps as I had to purchase one to remind myself that I do not like op amp rolling. It really confuses me that the Pico and Predator are USB only- I'd think most would prefer the option of a optical input in a DAC. I guess they must know more than I do, but I am sure the flexibility of the D1 appeals to a lot of people.


----------



## Ranma13

Quick question: does anybody know the difference between NSOIC and SOIC? I'm trying to get the AD825 from Newark.com, but the SOIC version is no longer available:

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/bro...Ntt=AD825&Ntx=


----------



## willisv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks... i think my local shop has 0.47uf nx ... will 4.7 be better or any of them will do since multiple of 10 ?_

 

I think the general rule for bypassing caps is 1/100 of higher value... somebody correct me if i'm wrong.


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ranma13* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quick question: does anybody know the difference between NSOIC and SOIC? I'm trying to get the AD825 from Newark.com, but the SOIC version is no longer available:

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/bro...Ntt=AD825&Ntx=_

 

Ranma13 you should be fine with the NSOIC package of the AD825 listed.
 I ordered 4 of those exact same ones from Newark Electronics and those are the ones I am using mounted to Brown Dog adapters.

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Semiconduc...sp?sku=59K6528

 The Brown Dog dual to single adapter you'll need is here:
http://cimarrontechnology.com/index....PROD&ProdID=24

 Unfortunately, I just saw on their website that they will be closed from Nov. 5, 2007 until Nov. 9, 2007 it says. So if you have to order them... it'll be another week.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

I just start using AD8656 in the DAC and when i use the power supply plugged into the amp the music is low in volume and sound is distorted. Using battery power the sound is fine. Anyone experience this problem?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Did you lose a brass sleeve from one of the opamp sockets?


----------



## unbiased

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *willisv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the general rule for bypassing caps is 1/100 of higher value... somebody correct me if i'm wrong._

 

In all my years of electronics experience and designing highend speaker systems and crossover networks and tweaking tube and solid state amplifiers there are general rules such as you mention that some designers philosophies are used as their trick or secret personal formula(s), but no hard rule. They call it a "black art" if I recall the term correctly where you apply the general rule as a starting point and then tweak it from there to get the sound the way you like it. The basic idea as jamato8 has already mentioned is to lower the ESR (equivalent series resistance) inherent in the larger valued capacitors. The ideal capcitor would have no resistance at all but only pure capacitive reactance value. In reality, no capacitor made is perfect and has some small measured resistance value in series with the signal path. This is what is called the ESR. You want to minimize this resistance as it affects the overall sound characteristics and robs you of some signal. By paralleling a smaller capacitor (which has a much lower ESR value) you are essentially lowering the total ESR of the larger capacitor by shunting around it. Of course the slight added .47uf or 4.7uf capacitive reactance you are also adding will increase the overall total capacitive reactance by adding to the larger capcitor value and allow a wee bit more highs to pass as well as the rest of the frequencies. So to simplify all this techno jargon for those that are lost with it, you can essentially add any high quality low value capacitor in parallel to the larger one and see how it sounds. It can be a .1uf or a 1uf too, not just 4.7uf or .47uf. Every circuit situation is different and a hard rule such as 1/100th may not apply. Just my 2 cents. I did not really want to jump in with all the technical detail stuff, but I tried to explain it best I could from my personal experiences. The "black art" of designing and tweaking electronics circuits is to use the value that sounds best for your particular circuit situtation (which varies from one unit to another). .47uf might sound best in my D1 for example, but not in some other D1 where a .1uf or a 2.5uf might sound best, etc. But as a starting point yeah, go ahead and use 1/100th and go from there.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


 Did you lose a brass sleeve from one of the opamp sockets? 
 

Hi, i'm not sure which part you're talking about. But i mount my AD8656 to the old stock ibasso adapter which had AD823. I wicked the old solder out from the AD823 adapter took the AD823 out and solder the new AD8656 to that adapter.

 I also try the stock DAC AD8616 back in using the power supply plugged into the amp and it works fine.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *unbiased* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In all my years of electronics experience and designing highend speaker systems and crossover networks and tweaking tube and solid state amplifiers there are general rules such as you mention that some designers philosophies are used as their trick or secret personal formula(s), but no hard rule. They call it a "black art" if I recall the term correctly where you apply the general rule as a starting point and then tweak it from there to get the sound the way you like it. The basic idea as jamato8 has already mentioned is to lower the ESR (equivalent series resistance) inherent in the larger valued capacitors. The ideal capcitor would have no resistance at all but only pure capacitive reactance value. In reality, no capacitor made is perfect and has some small measured resistance value in series with the signal path. This is what is called the ESR. You want to minimize this resistance as it affects the overall sound characteristics and robs you of some signal. By paralleling a smaller capacitor (which has a much lower ESR value) you are essentially lowering the total ESR of the larger capacitor by shunting around it. Of course the slight added .47uf or 4.7uf capacitive reactance you are also adding will increase the overall total capacitive reactance by adding to the larger capcitor value and allow a wee bit more highs to pass as well as the rest of the frequencies. So to simplify all this techno jargon for those that are lost with it, you can essentially add any high quality low value capacitor in parallel to the larger one and see how it sounds. It can be a .1uf or a 1uf too, not just 4.7uf or .47uf. Every circuit situation is different and a hard rule such as 1/100th may not apply. Just my 2 cents. I did not really want to jump in with all the technical detail stuff, but I tried to explain it best I could from my personal experiences. The "black art" of designing and tweaking electronics circuits is to use the value that sounds best for your particular circuit situtation (which varies from one unit to another). .47uf might sound best in my D1 for example, but not in some other D1 where a .1uf or a 2.5uf might sound best, etc. But as a starting point yeah, go ahead and use 1/100th and go from there._

 

wow.. informative post you have there... will u recommend 4.7uf or .47uf as a start?


----------



## Ranma13

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cafe zeenuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just start using AD8656 in the DAC and when i use the power supply plugged into the amp the music is low in volume and sound is distorted. Using battery power the sound is fine. Anyone experience this problem?_

 

I had the exact opposite problem, where the AD8656 would crackle on battery power but not on AC power. I think it's a burn-in issue, use the D1 for a while with the stock op amps, then switch in the new ones.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

I think i might have cooked the chip while i solder it to the adapter, i'm newb in soldering so i might have to get another chip to try again. I have some more op amp chip and browndog adapter coming next week. Cant wait to try them hopefully this time i won't stuff it up.


----------



## Ranma13

When I soldered mine, I used the only soldering iron I had, which had a flat tip and was too big to do fine work. What I ended up doing was I would touch one of the corners of the flat tip to the solder and quickly pull back to get these thin wisps that jutted out 45 degrees from the edge of the tip. Then I just soldered each leg on by applying the wisp to the leg. After some practice, I could get just right amount of 'wispiness' and easily soldered the chips on.

 One thing that also really helped was I taped half the chip down to the adapter and soldered one side, then removed the tape and did the other. I also held the adapter in some big pliers to prevent it from sliding around.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ranma13* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When I soldered mine, I used the only soldering iron I had, which had a flat tip and was too big to do fine work. What I ended up doing was I would touch one of the corners of the flat tip to the solder and quickly pull back to get these thin wisps that jutted out 45 degrees from the edge of the tip. Then I just soldered each leg on by applying the wisp to the leg. After some practice, I could get just right amount of 'wispiness' and easily soldered the chips on.

 One thing that also really helped was I taped half the chip down to the adapter and soldered one side, then removed the tape and did the other. I also held the adapter in some big pliers to prevent it from sliding around._

 


 hey thanks the tip i'll try your technique when my parts arrives.


----------



## jonoliew

I was just on the ibasso website and it said the d1 is out of stock. new model to be released this month. Does it mean like a new new model or an upgraded version?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I spent considerable time this evening going thru my best-sounding single-channel DIP opamps, at least the ones that had performed exceptionally well in my Xin SuperMacro amps. 

 I also re-installed the AD8397 buffers to provide the most output power for low-impedance phones, although I used my high-impedance HD-650s for the evaluations. 

 Although the LMH6643 is a very nice buffer, the AD8397 is tops for current output capability. Either will work quite well. If output current is not a consideration, perhaps use of the LM4562 or LME49720 would be satisfactory or simply bypassing the buffers would be another choice. I just wanted the max possible output current to benchmark these opamps. 

 No consideration was given to battery endurance when using these opamps. They all draw a fairly high quiescent current. 

 The opamps evaluated, using 2>1 adapters, were: 

 AD794, AD743, LT1028, OPA627 and OPA637. 

 The LT1028 was immediately discarded because of consistant startup oscillation, (whistling that has previously been noticed and discussed with some opamp configurations)

 The OPA637 just sounded unremarkable. It is a touchy opamp, and doesn't work well with loads that exhibit high values of capacitance or with gains less than 5. Whatever the reason, it just didn't ring the bell! 

 The AD743 sounded superb, as always, even though it is an opamp most commonly used in sonar and IR applications. It had the sweetest treble of any of the opamps. Nice smooth sound, not punchy but accurate, neutral, and very listenable. 

 The AD797 had the most punch in the low end and the biggest sound. Soundstage was closer to the listener than the others. 

 The OPA 627 lived up to its reputation...The bass was very detailed, kick drums really sounded like kick drums. Soundstage was slightly further away than the other opamps. Highs were very nice but not quite the equal of the 743. This opamp sounds its best with complex orchestral music or vocals, and did better than any of the others with pipe organ selections. 

 These 3 opamps are probably too close in performance for me to call an overall winner, as each excelled in one particular area. I will probably listen to each for a more extended period of time before selecting my own personal favorite. 

 At this point, however, for the type of music I most enjoy, the OPA627 is probably ahead by a nose!


 Addendum: 

 I retried the above opamps using the LME49720 as buffers. IMO, there is inadequate output current when using this opamp as a buffer to drive inefficient phones to an acceptable level of volume. 

 I then substituted the LMH6643 for the LME49720. It works well in all respects and requires only about 1/3 the current of the AD8397. I do think it is a little smoother than the 8397, but does not have quite the bass punch. I guess one could call it a little more neutral overall. Again, the choice of buffer really depends on the listeners preferences._

 

The AD797 does what you said, and I am enjoying the improved "closer" soundstage while keeping the punch and big sound. I am using it with the AD8397 as buffers, and AD6234 in the DAC. 

 I also think the AD797 treble is "sweeter" than with the OPA2111, but in other regards it sounds similar (except treble and closer soundstage) - it still has a tall, wide and deep soundstage, but just puts the listener closer to it. I only switched back to the OPA2111 once, and decided to leave the AD797's in it.

 I have a spare set of AD797 on a 2:1 that I am thinking about trying in my Headstage Lyrix Total Pro USB. However, the Lyrix with AD8397 opamp (no seperate buffers) is already a little closer soundstage than the D1 with OPA2111 and 8397 buffers, and I like it just fine.

 I'm emailing the builder to make sure it will be safe and not go "pop", but since the Lyrix is an AD8397 I should be good to go, right?


----------



## itsborken

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nfusion770* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are available immediately in my sig line 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.

 This is a very good sounding amp especially when using the DAC section and extremely flexible. I only used it with the stock opamps as I had to purchase one to remind myself that I do not like op amp rolling. It really confuses me that the Pico and Predator are USB only- I'd think most would prefer the option of a optical input in a DAC. I guess they must know more than I do, but I am sure the flexibility of the D1 appeals to a lot of people._

 

I think SPDIF and toslink break the sizing model both designers are shooting for.


----------



## Deathwish238

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jonoliew* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was just on the ibasso website and it said the d1 is out of stock. new model to be released this month. Does it mean like a new new model or an upgraded version?_

 

I believe they're just changing the OPAMPs


----------



## souperman

So sometimes when I connect one of my newly bought USB cables, the connection light blinks 3 times, and the computer doesn't recognize my D1. Anyone know why? It's a problem with the cable, because it doesn't work with my ZV:M either and my other cable works fine with both units. I actually told the seller and they sent me another, and the same thing happened. I know the cable is supposed to be for Canon cameras, but that shouldn't make a difference at all I thought.


----------



## sum1

I just asked Ibasso for some details about the new revision of D1 and they told me that it will be released this Sat and to check the details on their website.

 I wonder what opamp they choose..


----------



## jonoliew

any chance i could preorder it?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I'd be willing to bet they went with an AD8066 or AD8397 for LR since the OPA2111 is 3x the cost and hard to get. And IF they changed the buffers, they'd use LM4562. There was a lot of those setups in action while iBasso was sourcing opamps, and they can't be up to the latest all the time.


----------



## idunno

So I finally got my hands on an allen wrench to open up my D1 (work's been a bit busy) and no surprise, I have the late model with the LT6234 as the DAC opamp. Examining the photos on page one, I also noticed some minor differences in the circuit board used, and some of the chips on the bottom are different. My question is: has anyone had the opportunity to do a listening test between the "early" and "late" models? I'd be curious how they compare both in "stock" condition (with the two different DAC opamps) and rolled to matching setups.

 I'm new to all this, and was hoping to learn from what other people are hearing in their D1's, but now it seems that most of the comments made so far relate to a different version of the device than I have. Don't get me wrong, I'm very much enjoying my D1 (got about 160 hours on it now and it's sounding good), but suddenly I feel like I've lost my external frame of reference.

 Hopefully the differences between the two designs (other than the switch in opamps) are minor enough that there are few (if any) changes in the sound signature. Of course, if the new "pre-rolled" D1 is about to be released, this will probably get lost in the mix....


----------



## visia

Has anyone compared 49720 and 6643 as buffers? I am using 49720 right now, but I am wondering if I should give 6643 a try. Other than lower voltage of 6643, is there a difference in sound signature?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote from HiFlight

 "I like more power and higher slew rate for buffers. AD8397 and LMH6643 are hard to beat for buffers if you need to drive low-impedance phones. 

 For higher impedances and especially if they are pretty efficient phones, the LME49720 is a very nice sounding opamp buffer. They have limited output power though."

 Then in a sperate post, or PM (I forget)

 "LMH 6643 is [another] choice for the buffer sockets, making the choice for buffer: 

 AD8397: (bold, works well for rock, most output power)

 LMH6643: Smooth, warm, nice with bright phones)

 LME49720: Nice frequency balance, superb soundstage. Great choice for instrumental and complex harmonies."

 The only time I tried the 6643 I had a socket arc because the brass sleeve came out. I fixed it and left a spacer socker in place, but the 8397 is now stuck in the spacer kinda tight. I don't want to pull the spacer when I try to get the 8397 out, so I just left it at that. I've been using the 8397 as buffers forever, and with the AD797 in a 2:1 for LR it sounds good enough to leave alone.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

PS:

 I've been told the "tube on a chip setup" is 

 LTC6241HV LR
 LMH6643 x 2 buffer
 LMH6643 DAC (or LTV6234 DAC)

 This is what I was trying for when I messed up the buffer socket by losing the brass sleeve in the 5th pin hole - the 6241 wasn't impressive with 8397 as buffers, though, and I went back to OPA2111 then on the 5th went to the AD797x2 in LR.


----------



## visia

Thanks! Sounds like I'll still to 49720 and AD8397 for now.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *visia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks! Sounds like I'll still to 49720 and AD8397 for now._

 

I love the AD8397 as buffers. Lots and lots of impact to my liking.


----------



## mrarroyo

For the last 5 days I have been using the LHM6643 as buffers driven by an 8599. I really dig the sound, very airy, clear, detailed, and it has enough warmth and punch to be very exciting.

 I would like to state once again that there is no perfect op-amp comb that will work for all. Op-amps are cheap enough that you can try a few w/o braking the bank. Specially so if you get free samples from the manufacturers.


----------



## MoAv

I need a way to amplify the source from my mic when recording, and then I thought about my D1.
 Is there any way this would work, and work well ? this is an amplifier after all.
 But when I think about it, for it to work the mic has to give some weak volt to be amplified.


----------



## kiwirugby

I have had the good fortune to work with HiFlight on reconfiguring my D1. He kindly facilitated the following opamp rolling for me (since I am opamp-rolling challenged!).

 L&R: AD746
 Buffers: LME49720
 DAC: LT6234

 I listen to mostly classical music from a Sony D-EJ2000 PCDP-->Sysconcept mini-Toslink-->D1-->DT880 or AKG501.

 I know these opamps probably have been discussed ad infinitum and perhaps even the configuration above, but I think for me the most dramatic changes have been a widening of the soundstage, increasing the clarity of the upper registers and smoothing out the bass range (a bit of a bump and roll off in the stock configuration as best I can remember). Furthermore, the instruments sound more true to their tone and timbre. Percussion instruments are really amazing in their clear differences. Pizzicato double bass is so crisp and easy to hear the real notes as opposed to some vague thump! There is wonderful transparency in this configuration as result. Reminds me a bit of how Boulez does Stravinsky and Mahler (which sound wonderful on here too).

 They drive my power hungry 501s well at 11 o'clock with plenty of power left.

 I was listening to my iMod-->Xin SuperMacro IV yesterday and then the above set-up and my goodness this can spoil a really good (and expensive) rig for you. Of course, the transportability of a bunch of CDs along with a quite bulky amp and PCDP is a logistical concern.

 For those who listen to a lot of classical music and know how to roll opamps, you may want to give this a whirl.

 Well, I know you all want to get back to opamp discussions, but I though I would throw in a mini-review of sound quality! Sorry for the interruption.

 And thanks, HiFlight!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kiwirugby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had the good fortune to work with HiFlight on reconfiguring my D1. He kindly facilitated the following opamp rolling for me (since I am opamp-rolling challenged!).

 L&R: AD746
 Buffers: LME49720
 DAC: LT6234

 I listen to mostly classical music from a Sony D-EJ2000 PCDP-->Sysconcept mini-Toslink-->D1-->DT880 or AKG501.

 I know these opamps probably have been discussed ad infinitum and perhaps even the configuration above, but I think for me the most dramatic changes have been a widening of the soundstage, increasing the clarity of the upper registers and smoothing out the bass range (a bit of a bump and roll off in the stock configuration as best I can remember). Furthermore, the instruments sound more true to their tone and timbre. Percussion instruments are really amazing in their clear differences. Pizzicato double bass is so crisp and easy to hear the real notes as opposed to some vague thump! There is wonderful transparency in this configuration as result. Reminds me a bit of how Boulez does Stravinsky and Mahler (which sound wonderful on here too).

 They drive my power hungry 501s well at 11 o'clock with plenty of power left.

 I was listening to my iMod-->Xin SuperMacro IV yesterday and then the above set-up and my goodness this can spoil a really good (and expensive) rig for you. Of course, the transportability of a bunch of CDs along with a quite bulky amp and PCDP is a logistical concern.

 For those who listen to a lot of classical music and know how to roll opamps, you may want to give this a whirl.

 Well, I know you all want to get back to opamp discussions, but I though I would throw in a mini-review of sound quality! Sorry for the interruption.

 And thanks, HiFlight!_

 

I have these opamps, but haven't tried that combo yet. 

 I have a pair of AD797 in LR that I really like, and the 6234 in the DAC, but I have the AD8397 on a dip socket (as a riser) stuck in the buffers because of a socket issue - a little brass sleeve on pin 5 of the rear buffer came out and is lost.

 So, I clipped a leg off an extra DIP socket from radioshack, and dropped it down the hole. Then I put an AD8397 in the riser socket, so I could remove the opamp from the riser and not mess up the temporary repair - but the opamp is stuck in the riser now!

 I'd really like to find the little brass sleeve that came out of the hole before I start pulling buffers and having to do another temporary repair. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I HAVE to try my 6643's and then my 49720's in the buffers before I can say "done".


----------



## PPkiller

can you post a picture of the problem? maybe we can give more ideas on how to fix it..


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I'd have to open it up again - but if you look at the stock dip sockets in the ibasso, each of the 8 sockets has a smaller brass sleeve inside of a larger hole - essentially making the hole tighter so it can hold onto the opamp's legs.

 There have been a couple of us who have pulled out an opamp and had the brass sleeve come out with it, stuck to a leg of the opamp. I caught this, and was able to transfer the sleeve to my next opamp, but it fell off before I could install it. 

 Each time it fell off I found it, but then after about 4x it hit the carpet. I tried to pick it up with tweezers and the sleeve was kinda springy and jumped out, never to be seen again.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can you post a picture of the problem? maybe we can give more ideas on how to fix it.. _

 

The sockets have round metal sleeves in them that pressure fit in place. If a leg of an opamp creates enough friction when pulling the opamp out the sleeve will come with it. If the tiny sleeve were found it could be pushed back in but they are so small once they fall out they are often lost. There is still a contact inside but you don't have a good tight fit so a longer leg is needed to fit deeper into the socket to make the contact. You can see the small round gold colored sleeves on the close-up I have on page one.


----------



## sum1

Anyone see the new ibasso D1 spec.
 It seem like their config is different to the ones we used here. I wonder if their config is any good.

 "This is the new version of D1. We changed the L/R opamp to LT1364, and BUF is LMH6643. Also, the We use the LTC6241 to be the LPF of DAC. This combination has greater output power and less THD. In sum, the sound is better than before."


----------



## Dexdexter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone see the new ibasso D1 spec.
 It seem like their config is different to the ones we used here. I wonder if their config is any good.

 "This is the new version of D1. We changed the L/R opamp to LT1364, and BUF is LMH6643. Also, the We use the LTC6241 to be the LPF of DAC. This combination has greater output power and less THD. In sum, the sound is better than before."_

 

For an additional $20 from before, I would hope that it would be...


----------



## trb36

This may be old news, but I haven't seen it posted anywhere. 

 The new version of the D1 is on the website, here are the updates:

 L/R opamp: LT1364
 BUF: LMH6643
 LPF of DAC: LTC6241

 EDIT: Should have refreshed ^^^^


----------



## HiFlight

deleted


----------



## Mulo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *trb36* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This may be old news, but I haven't seen it posted anywhere. 

 The new version of the D1 is on the website, here are the updates:

 L/R opamp: LT1364
 BUF: LMH6643
 LPF of DAC: LTC6241

 EDIT: Should have refreshed ^^^^ _

 

LT1364... yummy... my favorite... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Instead I would have liked the LMH6655 much better than the LMH6643, though the former consumes a little more power.


----------



## PPkiller

i'm useing this combo..

 L/R: OPA627BP
 BUF: AD8066
 DAC: AD8656


----------



## ICU

iBasso products are (IMHO) quite nice, their size, and the SQ has been a boon to my hips.

 I wish I had known the 180 degree turn in the size of the D1. Seems my left side has formed a dis-symmetry to my right.

 Hopefully, their newer amp, when it makes its Ta-Dah! appearance will have most of the features of the D1, and be less massive than the lead brick that is the D1.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Trans-portable, but not, by a stretch, a comfy portable.

 The sound, however, makes me smile.


----------



## jamato8

Looks like Headfi is back. 

 So, more impressions?


----------



## souperman

What is the difference between the LT1364 and the LT1361? I have a whole bunch of LT1361's I want to try out.

 Also, does anyone know if the LT1122 is safe to try out in any of the slots on the D1?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is the difference between the LT1364 and the LT1361? I have a whole bunch of LT1361's I want to try out.

 Also, does anyone know if the LT1122 is safe to try out in any of the slots on the D1?_

 

Check this datasheet for the LT1122. Especially the supply voltage. That should answer your question. 

http://tinyurl.com/yuj5mo


----------



## mrarroyo

I have a few extra LT6234 (un-mounted). I am looking for a pair of LT1364, does anyone want to trade? Send me a PM. Thanks.

 BTW, I have been trying the LT6241 w/ LHM6643 as buffers. It is a hard call but I may go back to the AD8599 w/ LHM663 as buffers.


----------



## souperman

I think I'm going to try out the LT1361's and 1364's.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Do your D1 chargers emit a high frequency noise when plugged in?


----------



## jamato8

Mine doesn't. Do you mean from the charger or a high frequency sound out of the D1 that you hear in the headphones?


----------



## itsborken

FWIW, I've gotten that high frequency sound out of the charger occasionally. It doesn't seem to matter.


----------



## Schalldampfer

Out of the charger. And it seems to be consistent, too.


----------



## idunno

I've noticed the charger influencing sound quality after I've had the cover off to roll opamps. It seems that if the metal sheath of the charger plug is too close to the metal of the back plate (as is wont to happen) there will be some sort of feedback in the audio output. I find that the feedback goes away if I jimmy the back end of the board to one side, so that the charger port is centered within the opening in the back plate.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I've stayed with the AD797 x2 in LR, AD8397 x2 as buffers, and LTC6234 DAC since 11/5/07 - I have no desire to change anything now


----------



## jterp7

has anyone received the updated version yet?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've stayed with the AD797 x2 in LR, AD8397 x2 as buffers, and LTC6234 DAC since 11/5/07 - I have no desire to change anything now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I will have that setup soon except with the LMH6643 in the DAC position 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Happy to hear that it is doing great.


----------



## Evergreen

I received mine on 20 Nov. Still in the burn-in stage. To my untrained ears, it sounds pretty good. Yesterday, I switched from USB to optical input from MacBook Pro. I think I am hearing an increase in the upper registers. Extremely detailed with HD-650s.


----------



## cooperpwc

I would be interested in hearing comments on the iBasso choice for new opamps and buffers:

  Quote:


 This is the new version of D1. We changed the L/R opamp to LT1364, and BUF is LMH6643. Also, the We use the LTC6241 to be the LPF of DAC. This combination has greater output power and less THD. In sum, the sound is better than before. 
 

Is this a good combination? I will get a D1 in HK this weekend if they can get one down there for me. (It turns out that it's just the corporate secretary at their HK address. iBasso is in Shenzhen.)


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cooperpwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would be interested in hearing comments on the iBasso choice for new opamps and buffers:

  Quote:


 This is the new version of D1. We changed the L/R opamp to LT1364, and BUF is LMH6643. Also, the We use the LTC6241 to be the LPF of DAC. This combination has greater output power and less THD. In sum, the sound is better than before. 
 

Is this a good combination? I will get a D1 in HK this weekend if they can get one down there for me. (It turns out that it's just the corporate secretary at their HK address. iBasso is in Shenzhen.)_

 

I have the LTC6241 that I was going to try in the LR, but I guess I can try it in the DAC (instead of my 6234). I also have a pair of LMH6643 I can try in the buffers (instead of my AD8397). But, my pair of AD797 in the LR aren't going anywhere.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the LTC6241 that I was going to try in the LR, but I guess I can try it in the DAC (instead of my 6234). I also have a pair of LMH6643 I can try in the buffers (instead of my AD8397). But, my pair of AD797 in the LR aren't going anywhere. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hey how are you fitting the AD797 into the D1 case? I can't fit the adapter into place without a riser, and with a riser it would be way too high. Can you take a picture of how you have it set up so you can fit the 2 single > dual adapter into the case?


----------



## willisv

The only way I could fit the 2 - 1 adapter in the case was to take the dip sockets out and solder the chips to the board. I also had to trim away some of the board (I used sidecutters, careful not to cut any traces). there are different types of adapters though... I bought mine off ebay assembled with two ad 797 chips.


----------



## souperman

Dang...maybe AD797 is not a good idea for me then. What a bummer.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

No! 

 It's a direct plug-in with NO MODS, using the Browndog 2:1 adapter that I got from HiFlight. I do have another adapter that needs to be trimmed, so I didn't use it.

 See the AD797x2 on the adapter in the photo below, on the table right next to the D1, before I installed it. It fit like a glove with no bending or mods or cutting or anything - I just neglected to take a picture after it was in. 

 The photo was from a review I did around 11/4, when the OPA2111 was still in, then I put the AD797x2 in and did another review 11/5. http://www.head-fi.org/forums/3398212-post31.html


----------



## souperman

I guess my adapter is too big then. Do you know where I can purchase the small ones you are using. Mine are nearly twice the size of yours.


----------



## Monster_Omelette

Has anyone tried the OPA627 in the L/R?


----------



## StayOnBoard

Wow that looks very impressive indeed. Thanks for the post.

 Im curious how it compares to the Cute Beyond headphone amp. I purchased one from here. Do you think its worth the upgrade or investment?

 Thanks for the info, great post!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess my adapter is too big then. Do you know where I can purchase the small ones you are using. Mine are nearly twice the size of yours._

 

I got it from HiFlight. PM him, he's been a great help.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Monster_Omelette* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone tried the OPA627 in the L/R?_

 

HiFlight loves the OPA627

 See http://www.head-fi.org/forums/3381919-post1912.html post 1912 and then

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/3389924-post1957.html post 1957 in this thread


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

One of these days I may turn into a "why don't you do a search" turd, but for now it is still fun to be the one to do the search and be the first to post the answer


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Monster_Omelette* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone tried the OPA627 in the L/R?_

 

Yes,

 I currently use OPA627BP in L/R on browndog single to dual op amp adapter DIP, AD8397 in BUFFER and LTC6241HV in the DAC. This setup to me sounds best to my ears. 

 After a long session of op amp rolling for the DAC section between (LT6234, LTC6241HV & LMH6643MA) listening to Diana Krall – The girl in the other room, Track 3-Temptation.

 LTC6241HV is the winner; it had the most detail of the three. Follow by LMH6643MA the sound is similar to LTC6241HV but the snare drum didn’t sound as good as the LTC6241HV. Last position is LT6234 it had the least amount detail, sounded flat in this setup.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Time to put my left over LTC6241HV to use then - that's one of my favorite songs...

 HiFlight had me go with the LTC6234 for DAC (after I tried the AD8656 in the DAC). 

 I have the same buffers as you (AD8397), but I went with the AD797 for L/R which was HiFlight's second choice "by a hair" - "Punchy Big Sound and a little more forward" if I recall. I was very happy with the OPA2111 in LR till I heard the AD797. It was like, OMG!


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cafe zeenuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes,

 I currently use OPA627BP in L/R on browndog single to dual op amp adapter DIP, AD8397 in BUFFER and LTC6241HV in the DAC. This setup to me sounds best to my ears. 

 After a long session of op amp rolling for the DAC section between (LT6234, LTC6241HV & LMH6643MA) listening to Diana Krall – The girl in the other room, Track 3-Temptation.

 LTC6241HV is the winner; it had the most detail of the three. Follow by LMH6643MA the sound is similar to LTC6241HV but the snare drum didn’t sound as good as the LTC6241HV. Last position is LT6234 it had the least amount detail, sounded flat in this setup._

 

What browndog adapter are you guys all talking about? I can't find it on their website. I'm assuming it's half the size of the adapter I'm using right now.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

This one click on link Single-to-dual Op-AMP Adapter - DIP version (p/n 021001) - 021001

 You'll need to buy a 2 x DIP socket and solder on to it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cafe zeenuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This one click on link Single-to-dual Op-AMP Adapter - DIP version (p/n 021001) - 021001

 You'll need to buy a 2 x DIP socket and solder on to it.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No!

 Where is HiFlight when you need him. Mine is SOCKETED! I got it from him.

 I just plugged the two AD797's into it, and plugged the whole thing right into my D1 - NO SOLDERING, BENDING, TWISTING, CUTTING OR TEARING...


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Under the hood


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I believe that HiFlight solders the sockets onto the single to dual adapter, and it only like $15 or something. PM him to find out.


----------



## cafe zeenuts




----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No!

 Where is HiFlight when you need him. Mine is SOCKETED! I got it from him.

 I just plugged the two AD797's into it, and plugged the whole thing right into my D1 - NO SOLDERING, BENDING, TWISTING, CUTTING OR TEARING..._

 

Thats because HiFlight already done the hard work of soldering everything together.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cafe zeenuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thats because HiFlight already done the hard work of soldering everything together._

 

I said that a couple of posts back, but even more posts back I was telling people to contact him about those.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I said that a couple of posts back, but even more posts back I was telling people to contact him about those._

 

cool


----------



## MoAv

Can I use this one ?


----------



## PPkiller

yes u can... but your opamp must be in soic form..


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe that HiFlight solders the sockets onto the single to dual adapter, and it only like $15 or something. PM him to find out._

 

That is correct, I solder the sockets onto the 2>1s to allow the use of a variety of single-channel DIP opamps with only one adapter. I also use a bypass socket for each buffer when using the AD797, as it outputs more power than most of the other opamps. The bypass sockets are included with the 2>1 adapter.

 FWIW, I find it faster and easier to solder SOIC opamps onto an adapter than to make up the 2>1 and bypass sockets. It is pretty easy to burn the plastic when making up the jumpers. (ask me how I know!)


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cafe zeenuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes,

 I currently use OPA627BP in L/R on browndog single to dual op amp adapter DIP, AD8397 in BUFFER and LTC6241HV in the DAC. This setup to me sounds best to my ears. 

 After a long session of op amp rolling for the DAC section between (LT6234, LTC6241HV & LMH6643MA) listening to Diana Krall – The girl in the other room, Track 3-Temptation.

 LTC6241HV is the winner; it had the most detail of the three. Follow by LMH6643MA the sound is similar to LTC6241HV but the snare drum didn’t sound as good as the LTC6241HV. Last position is LT6234 it had the least amount detail, sounded flat in this setup._

 

i'm useing opa627bp as well... i'm useing ad8066 in the buffer and 8656 for the dac.. i dun have a 6241 to try but 8656 has more details and sounds more extended in the treble and bass when compared to 6234. i used 8066 because it has more treble extension when compared to 8397 and it helps with the treble of 627..


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i'm useing opa627bp as well... i'm useing ad8066 in the buffer and 8656 for the dac.. i dun have a 6241 to try but 8656 has more details and sounds more extended in the treble and bass when compared to 6234. i used 8066 because it has more treble extension when compared to 8397 and it helps with the treble of 627.._

 

I'll give ad8656 a try when it gets here, got some from souperman on this forum.


----------



## PPkiller

gpgt...

 bg mod...













 the change in the ps cap affects the audio the most...


----------



## jamato8

Great! I have been waiting to see a nice large cap installed. I don't have any right now that will fit. So what do you think of the sound and what do you hear in changes?


----------



## PPkiller

i install the 6 hi-q caps the night before and spend sometime listening to it.. it seems clearer and the sound has better decay... i just did the ps caps change today and straight away i notice it improves the sound by quite an amount.., from the first few mins of listening, the sound is much fuller and energetic (afterwards it starts to sound muddy, most prob due to the lack of burn-in, same as what i get from the x-fi mod i did months ago where the sound sounds muddy but after a few months i'm surprised by the clarity and hi-def sound)... 

 the big cap i use is the standard bg 16v 470uf... it seems to be the only 1 that can fit in the case...


----------



## jamato8

I always notice that the new caps will sound good right off and then the sound goes muddy for a while and then as the cap forms (or caps) the sound slowly comes back and gets better. This is with Black Gates and has happened in most everything I have ever installed them in. The HiQ are great caps. Too bad nothing is like BG.


----------



## souperman

Wow I found that the LT1364 works pretty well in the LR slot. I've even got a few left over if any of you want to try it out.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I think more people should try the AD797 like I have...


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think more people should try the AD797 like I have..._

 

Yes, but they are pretty expensive.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I got four AD797 and two 2:1 adapters for around $50 on ebay.

 One set is in my iBasso, and the other will go in my PIMETA to see if they are better than the AD744 that are already in it. If not a huge change, I'll then try it in my Headstage Lyrix in place of the AD8397.


----------



## kaushama

What is the difference between LTC6241HV and LTC6241IS?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Colt* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_More people should try the LT1364 too._

 

x2. I've got plenty if anyone wants some.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Colt* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Out of curiosity, how do you find it (LT1364) in terms of overall balance? Would you say it's brighter or warmer?_

 

I personally found it warmer and better bass. (from stock)


----------



## HiFlight

The LT1364 is also the standard opamp in the new iBasso P2.


----------



## fraseyboy

How does the amp section of this compare to the Minibox E or Mini3?


----------



## musicmaker

Is anyone aware of a socketed SOIC-8 to DIP-8 adapter ? Soldering SOIC opamps is a bit of a challenge for folks without much soldering experience such as myself. If there's a socketed SOIC-8 to DIP-8 adapter, I'd be all over it. Anyone aware of one ?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is anyone aware of a socketed SOIC-8 to DIP-8 adapter ? Soldering SOIC opamps is a bit of a challenge for folks without much soldering experience such as myself. If there's a socketed SOIC-8 to DIP-8 adapter, I'd be all over it. Anyone aware of one ?_

 

SOIC opamps have no legs to plug into an adapter. SOIC opamps need to be soldered onto an DIP adapter or directly onto a circuit board.


----------



## fraseyboy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does the amp section of this compare to the Minibox E or Mini3?_

 

Or the Move?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fraseyboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or the Move?_

 

There are so many comparisons already, even one by Skylab. Just do a search.


----------



## ojyarumaru

Hey I have a newb question. Can the unit be powered just through the USB?


----------



## WatCult

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ojyarumaru* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey I have a newb question. Can the unit be powered just through the USB?_

 

Sad to say the D1 can't do that.


----------



## ojyarumaru

If I were to solely use a usb dac, should I get the Headroom Total Bithead or the Ibasso D1? Which sounds better?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ojyarumaru* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I were to solely use a usb dac, should I get the Headroom Total Bithead or the Ibasso D1? Which sounds better?_

 

D1 hands down. The D1's DAC is what makes it so remarkable at this price.


----------



## PPkiller

has anyone tried comparing the sound with and without power adaptor? when running from power adaptor the treble seems more laidback and less prominent.. w/o power adaptor the treble sounds nicer and sweet... 

 and also when connected with my (laptop vga out)lcd, i can see visual noise on the display when the D1 supplied power adaptor is on. could be due to the quality of the power adaptor.


----------



## mamboman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_has anyone tried comparing the sound with and without power adaptor? when running from power adaptor the treble seems more laidback and less prominent.. w/o power adaptor the treble sounds nicer and sweet... 

 and also when connected with my (laptop vga out)lcd, i can see visual noise on the display when the D1 supplied power adaptor is on. could be due to the quality of the power adaptor._

 

I don't find much difference between adapter and battery powered. But with regards to your LCD, are you using a shielded VGA cable? all electronic devices have EM/RF noise which will affect your video cable if it is not shielded.


----------



## PPkiller

it shouldn't be the vga cable... only with D1 power adaptor it will cause such noise to appear on the screen..


----------



## mamboman

could still be tha vga cable and also that the D1 walwart is noisy. did you try a different socket?


----------



## WatCult

My power adaptor is also giving out strange noise but it is not affecting my screen.


----------



## mamboman

neither is it affecting mine. that's why i think it might be a case of poor noise shielding in PPKiller's cable plus a noisy power adapter.


----------



## PPkiller

actually from my experience, once i have a noisy display on my lcd before.. 

 previously i have a emu-0404 usb. with the creative power adaptor, everything is fine... until when i order 1 cheapskate 5v adaptor from ebay to give it a try(someone mention higher A adaptor will improve the audio quality on emu-0404), 
 what happen is once i plug in that cheapskate adaptor, the noisy on the screen appears... i conclude the adaptor to be of poor quality and discard it to the bin straight after...


----------



## iceman23

Does anyone have an estimate on the time it takes iBasso to ship the D1? I live in Wisconsin, USA.


----------



## jamato8

Mine took 4 or 5 days after 1 or 2 days of being ordered.


----------



## n00bler

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iceman23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have an estimate on the time it takes iBasso to ship the D1? I live in Wisconsin, USA._

 

From order date, mine took a week to California.


----------



## PPkiller

I bought a new power adaptor and it solve the noise problem i have..


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Has anyone try AD797 in the DAC section? I want to know if its safe to do so i dont wanna blow up my D1.


----------



## HiFlight

The AD797 is a single channel opamp, you need to use a dual channel in the DAC section. Don't try it!

 There is room to use an adapter for the LR to enable the use of single channel opamps in that socket.


----------



## MoAv

I don't get it, why my D1 won't work with my opa2111kp on the L/R ?


----------



## musicmaker

I just installed my AD797s in the LR (thanks to HiFlight for the adapter set and buffer bypass sockets). All I can say is WOW ! The sound is great. So much so that I'm contemplating selling my beloved XP-7. 

 I tried the OPA2111, LT1364 in addition to the stock in the LR and the AD797 sounds the best in my setup (ihp-140 -> sysconcept optical out -> D1 -> Senn HD25-1 II). 

 I'm going to experiment with some opamps in the dac section but I am very VERY happy with the AD797s in the LR.


----------



## musicmaker

I don't have buffers with AD797s. Havent tried the LT1364 unbuffered. I Ran them w/ LM4562 buffers.

 Between the AD797s and LT1364s w/ LM4562s, the AD797 have a lot more impact, is a bit more upfront and has better bass definition. The treble is also smoother while still being detailed. 

 The LT1364 is actually a good chip and I preferred it to the OPA2111. The treble was still a bit harsh. Now, keep in mind that some folks thought that the LM4562s had a slightly problematic treble. I'll need to try the LT1364s unbuffered to draw an apple-to-apple comparison.


----------



## musicmaker

Just tried the LT1364 unbuffered. From brief listening, I definitely prefer the AD797s. Better bass definition and a balanced treble. The LT1364 sounds a bit congested in comparison with a slightly emphasized treble.

 AD797s w/ LT1364 buffers. Let me try that


----------



## musicmaker

I tried the AD797s in the LR with the LT1364 buffers. I definitely prefer the AD797 unbuffered. I switched the LT1364s and buffer bypass sockets a few times to be sure. I am sure - the AD797s without buffers sound best and cleaner to me. I have found my LR opamp.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tried the AD797s in the LR with the LT1364 buffers. I definitely prefer the AD797 unbuffered. I switched the LT1364s and buffer bypass sockets a few times to be sure. I am sure - the AD797s without buffers sound best and cleaner to me. I have found my LR opamp._

 

what opamp are you useing for the dac? 

 anyone tried lt1364 vs lt6241 vs ad8656 for the dac section? i'm interested in finding out which of the 3 opamp will sound best for the dac..


----------



## musicmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what opamp are you useing for the dac? 

 anyone tried lt1364 vs lt6241 vs ad8656 for the dac section? i'm interested in finding out which of the 3 opamp will sound best for the dac.. _

 

Haven't played around with that many opamps in the dac position. My browndog adapters arrived yesterday and I have a bunch of opamps waiting to be soldered to try in the dac. At this stage, I've only compared the stock AD8616 vs the LT1364. The AD8616 sounds much better compared to the LT1364 in the dac position.

 Shortly, I'll be trying the Ad8656 and LT6241 in the dac. Will post impressions.


----------



## PPkiller

thanks... someone mention LMH6643 sounds good in dac as well (better then 8656 in his opinion). maybe you can give it a try..


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The AD797 is a single channel opamp, you need to use a dual channel in the DAC section. Don't try it!

 There is room to use an adapter for the LR to enable the use of single channel opamps in that socket._

 

OK thanks HiFlight, btw can you post how to make a buffer bypass socket?

 Cheers


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks... someone mention LMH6643 sounds good in dac as well (better then 8656 in his opinion). maybe you can give it a try.. _

 


 That could have been me, it was actually between LMH6643 vs LT6241. I found that LT6241 is better then LMH6643 in the DAC.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what opamp are you useing for the dac? 

 anyone tried lt1364 vs lt6241 vs ad8656 for the dac section? i'm interested in finding out which of the 3 opamp will sound best for the dac.. _

 

I have try all three opamp in the DAC, after a short session listening to Track 14 (habanera fantasia from) This k2 HD sound! CD. 

 I have conclude that LTC6241 had the most detail of the three, it had better detail mids and highs compare to AD8656 and LT1364. I guess thats why iBasso is using them in their D1 now. 

 I like AD8656 second then Lt1364 third. The difference between AD8656 and LT1364 is very small.

 BTW i'm using OPA627BP in L/R and AD8397 in buffer.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cafe zeenuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have try all three opamp in the DAC, after a short session listening to Track 14 (habanera fantasia from) This k2 HD sound! CD. 

 I have conclude that LTC6241 had the most detail of the three, it had better detail mids and highs compare to AD8656 and LT1364. I guess thats why iBasso is using them in their D1 now. 

 I like AD8656 second then Lt1364 third. The difference between AD8656 and LT1364 is very small.

 BTW i'm using OPA627BP in L/R and AD8397 in buffer._

 

roger.... have you tried ad8066 for buffer with opa627bp? i prefer it over ad8397... someone mention about lmh6655 as buffer... thinking of giving it a try...


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Nope, i have not try Ad8066, i have AD797 coming my way cant wait to try them in D1.

 At this stage i reckon OPA627BP L/R AD8397 buffer and LTC6241 DAC sounds very good to my ears.


----------



## jamato8

I would have to agree that from my experience it takes some voltage and unrestricted current to make the 627 swing. As always, it is in the implementation.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I've been using the AD797 x2 in LR and AD8397 in the buffers plus LTC6234 in the DAC since 11/5/07 and like it too much to change anything. This was the second round of opamp rolling after the OPA2111/AD8397/AD8656 in the LR/BUFF/DAC positions. I might some day try it with the buffers bypassed, but there is no rush.

 I also have a pair of LM4562, LME49720 or LMH6653 to try in the buffers, since I never got around to them. The OPA2111 in LR is IMHO better than the stock AD823 or the AD8066 in LR, but I haven't tried my AD746, my pair of AD744 on a 2:1 or my LTC6241-HV in LR yet either.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Shopper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_True.

 Btw, why hasn't anyone tried the OPA2365 or the OPA2727? They should be great for the I/V conversion after the DAC._

 

There are so many, maybe too many, choices.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would have to agree that from my experience it takes some voltage and unrestricted current to make the 627 swing. As always, it is in the implementation._

 

maybe that's why i can hear a difference with battery powered and power adaptor powered..


----------



## cafe zeenuts

I was using OPA627BP before in my D1, i just pop LT1364 in the L/R. The sound is much better then OPA627BP dont know why, i thought the OPA627BP is one of the top opamp on the market.

 Listening to the Ultrasone CD track 2 the drums is just amazing.

 I guess maybe the D1 is not giving it enought juice to drive the OPA627BP.


----------



## PPkiller

are you able to describe the differences between lt1364 and opa627bp? the samples i ordered should be on the way..


----------



## tracyrick

Is the ibasso optical cable that comes with the D1 Toslink to mini, or Toslink to Toslink?


----------



## PPkiller

base on my experience with opa627 with ad8397, those two are not a match. 
 they will sound very bass focus and has a very recess treble... with 8066 it is much more balance.. treble sounds where they should be just that it is not that good sounding when compared to some of the opamps(i did some comparison, 627 treble seems to sound more natural, while although other opamps(ad8599) sound nicer, they too sound higher pitch which might explain why they do better in treble). 

 the bass from ad8397 is very very good. but 8066 make it sound better by adding a 'touch/definition' to the bass. it sounds to me to have more hi-def, i can pinpoint where exactly the bass came from. with ad8397, i get the 'woof'/bass slam feeling but i can't pinpoint where it came from like how ad8066 did.

 i'm waiting for lmh6655 as well to try in the buffer section. the specs look good, hopefully it will do better.


----------



## musicmaker

So I've done a fair bit of listening with a bunch of opamps in the LR and buffer sections, with the line out of my iriver feeding the D1. I feel the amp section of the D1 feels pretty congested especially when dealing with complex sections of music (many instruments, voices etc). While opamp rolling has certainly made the amp section a lot better (especially with the Ad797), I still feel the amp section is still lacking (the airiness, separation, soundstage) ? I can quite put my finger on it but there is something about the amp section that really bothers me. Perhaps I'm just spoiled by my RSA XP-7.

 Now with the DAC its a different story, with the optical out of the iRiver music comes to life. The DAC's great but I'm disappointed with the amp. Is it just me or does anyone feel the same ?


----------



## jirams

TosLink 2 TosLink


----------



## tracyrick

Thanks jirams. I finally talked myself into ordering a D1 on Sat. for my H140. Looks like I can't hook up with the included cable then. Was hoping to hear the sound via optical immediately. Can't order a custom cable until I receive the D1 and I'm sure about the length I need with my portable setup. Will probably get some type of camera bag.

 musicmaker - I can't wait to find out for myself! I'm currently using a Portaphile V2 Maxxed with my H140. My big questions that I will prove to myself will be: 1. Does the D1 amp and DAC sound better together than my V2 amp? 2. Or does the D1 DAC (amp not used) hooked up to my V2 amp sound the best? Either way I'm hoping to get improved SQ by buying the D1.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_are you able to describe the differences between lt1364 and opa627bp? the samples i ordered should be on the way.._

 

In my opinion the diferences is that the LT1364 is able to produce better snare drum sound better then OPA627BP it has more timbre, treble has a bit more detail more natural sound. And it has added a bit more airiness to the overall sound.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I've done a fair bit of listening with a bunch of opamps in the LR and buffer sections, with the line out of my iriver feeding the D1. I feel the amp section of the D1 feels pretty congested especially when dealing with complex sections of music (many instruments, voices etc). While opamp rolling has certainly made the amp section a lot better (especially with the Ad797), I still feel the amp section is still lacking (the airiness, separation, soundstage) ? I can quite put my finger on it but there is something about the amp section that really bothers me. Perhaps I'm just spoiled by my RSA XP-7.

 Now with the DAC its a different story, with the optical out of the iRiver music comes to life. The DAC's great but I'm disappointed with the amp. Is it just me or does anyone feel the same ?_

 

How many hours are on the D1? I find that in these finer musical qualities that it is the burn in that either makes or breaks the finer points. If they clean up with time great if not then it is just the intrinsic quality of the amp. I found that with time the amp did open up more and with correct opamp use.


----------



## mrarroyo

FWIW, I truly think any amp should be allowed to settle before you start making changes to it, op-amps or caps or what ever. If the amp is not settled how do you know that the chage was brought by the new what ever or by additional burn in?

 Just my opinion.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cafe zeenuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In my opinion the diferences is that the LT1364 is able to produce better snare drum sound better then OPA627BP it has more timbre, treble has a bit more detail more natural sound. And it has added a bit more airiness to the overall sound._

 

thanks...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So I've done a fair bit of listening with a bunch of opamps in the LR and buffer sections, with the line out of my iriver feeding the D1. I feel the amp section of the D1 feels pretty congested especially when dealing with complex sections of music (many instruments, voices etc). While opamp rolling has certainly made the amp section a lot better (especially with the Ad797), I still feel the amp section is still lacking (the airiness, separation, soundstage) ? I can quite put my finger on it but there is something about the amp section that really bothers me. Perhaps I'm just spoiled by my RSA XP-7.

 Now with the DAC its a different story, with the optical out of the iRiver music comes to life. The DAC's great but I'm disappointed with the amp. Is it just me or does anyone feel the same ?_

 

I haven't used analog input since 11/5/07 - I only feed it via optical CDP or optical out from iRiver, or from USB into the DAC > then headphone out or line out, depending on whether I use IEM's or my tube amp for full size headphones.


----------



## Dual

Heres some DIY dummy opamps I just cooked up to bypass the buffers for the AD797.












 They are very simple to make all you need to do is short pins 1-3 and 5-7 on the socket with some thin metal wire.
 You don't even need to solder them in if the wire is a tight fit but do so anyway just to be safe.

 I perfer the AD797 with bypass buffers than with 2x AD8397.


----------



## musicmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How many hours are on the D1? I find that in these finer musical qualities that it is the burn in that either makes or breaks the finer points. If they clean up with time great if not then it is just the intrinsic quality of the amp. I found that with time the amp did open up more and with correct opamp use._

 

The amp had an owner before me. I have been listening to it for the last 2 weeks or so (added maybe 25 hours or so). Not sure how many hours the previous owner had. At any rate, your point is well taken. I'm going to give it burn in time and hopefully it'll open up.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dual* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heres some DIY dummy opamps I just cooked up to bypass the buffers for the AD797.











 They are very simple to make all you need to do is short pins 1-3 and 5-7 on the socket with some thin metal wire.
 You don't even need to solder them in if the wire is a tight fit but do so anyway just to be safe.

 I perfer the AD797 with bypass buffers than with 2x AD8397._

 

Hey thanks for posting those pics, now i know how to make a dummy socket
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




! Just have to wait for my AD797 to arrive to try them.


----------



## ndskyz

Very interesting thread. Im thinking about picking one of these up.
 Thanks for all the great info guys!


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Very interesting thread. Im thinking about picking one of these up.
 Thanks for all the great info guys!_

 

You will really enjoy the D1. Opamp rolling will be INCREDIBLY fun as well.


----------



## jamato8

Yes the dac section is proving out to be excellent for the intended use.


----------



## tracyrick

So I'm one of those lurkers who's been reading about this D1 for a while now. At first the large size and mediocre amp impressions put me off. But then the new chip upgrade put me over the edge. Plus of course, how can anyone own an H120/H140 and not get a DAC for the optical out? Impossible to resist this!

 So I just got my D1 yesterday. Ordered 12/15, shipped 12/19 per packing slip (Asia time), arrived in Colorado 12/20 via UPS Saver. Took that long to ship because I wanted the "simple" package so we had some back and forth e-mails. But 2 days actual transit time - wow! That was fast. Customer service was excellent.

 No pictures yet, but some quick tips for people with H120/H140 (which I have 1 of both). Assumes you stack your D1 on top of the H120/H140. I believe this will be the ultimate audiophile portable setup:

 1. Ordered 3 cm center to center toslink to toslink cable (sliver) from sysconcepts. Joseph rocks. Also getting tos to tos 90 adapter and tos to mini 90 adapter. There is a good picture on their website that shows what this looks like. A Japanese customer ordered this before. Tightest connect solution you can get - I think.

 2. Bought a "Chisco" fanny pack from Sports Authority. Measures 8.5" long, 3" thick, 4" wide. Did a lot of searching for this, Target and Wal-mart didn't have anything I could find. You put your stack in long ways (horizontal to the ground) instead of vertical to the ground. Excellent waist band with buckle. I am sure I can hit the gym and even use my weight belt with this setup. This is tight. Portable? YES! I was worried that portable would be out of the question with the D1...I was wrong.

 3. Sound impressions? Using only the amp so far and SR80, it sounds very similar to my Portaphile V2 Maxxed. Maybe a little brighter or distorted, not sure yet, but the treble may be different. Bass lines and kick drums sounded very similar. Need to do more comparisons and level the amp volumes with my R.S. SPL meter. Will try with my ER-4S also (main earphones for portable, can pickup more details in the sound with these).

 The ultimate test will be when I get my sysconcept cable (shipping today, was in stock, nice!) next week and can use the DAC, ah, ah, ah!

 Will I need to go H140>D1 DAC>Portaphile V2 for the best SQ? That would screw up my portable bag setup above...Or will the D1 amp come through a winner and I can just go H140>D1 DAC/AMP? I can't wait to find out.

 I'll try to add pics with my sound impressions next week. Thanks to those who have gone before me!


----------



## jamato8

When you start using the optical in from the iRiver you will notice a real difference. I have a number of different lengths now of the optical cable from Joseph (I have dealt with him for some years now and he is great) and he went out of his way to make us the very shortest length of terminated toslink in the industry. They all hold up great and since he understands how we are using it he tries very hard to make sure it is very durable.


----------



## bobby001

Can it drive Headphone over 300 Ohms ?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bobby001* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can it drive Headphone over 300 Ohms ?_

 

Yes, it very easily drives my HD650s. I am getting my best performance using the THS4032 opamp in the L&R channel, and the LMH6655 as buffers.

 This combination sounds very good with both low and high impedance headphones.


----------



## jamato8

So why isn't anyone talking about the USB input on the D1 and how it sounds?


----------



## cafe zeenuts

well the USB input to my ears does not sound as good as coaxial or optical. it just lacks a bit of detail i like coaxial best then follow by optical.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

The USB DAC sounds great on my macbook core 2 duo. My desktop pc sounds better with usb than analog, but it can't approach the sound from the macbook via usb. Optical out of the macbook isn't much different than usb. Desktop doesn't have optical to compare to.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it very easily drives my HD650s. I am getting my best performance using the THS4032 opamp in the L&R channel, and the LMH6655 as buffers.

 This combination sounds very good with both low and high impedance headphones._

 

Which version of THS4032 do you use, THS4032CD or THS4032ID???


----------



## cafe zeenuts

thanks champ!


----------



## NelsonVandal

So how does the D1 sound compared to a CD-player of normal mid-prize quality? Have any of you compared it to the Zero DAC?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So how does the D1 sound compared to a CD-player of normal mid-prize quality? Have any of you compared it to the Zero DAC?_

 

"unbiased" has both. You could PM him.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it very easily drives my HD650s. I am getting my best performance using the THS4032 opamp in the L&R channel, and the LMH6655 as buffers.

 This combination sounds very good with both low and high impedance headphones._

 

Can you describe the sound difference between the using THS4032 L/R, LMH6655 as buffers and AD797 with buffer bypass? Thanks.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Shopper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It will most definitely sound much fuller and more powerful/dynamic with the LMH6655's. These are really very good opamps for driving headphones @ supply voltages not above 12V (I used them in a portable amp powered @ 12V with my HD650).

 Also the AD797 is not quite recommendable for driving headphones bufferless - better the AD8599 if you really have to._

 

ok cool i'll buy them to try it then. Btw why is the AD797 not recommended using it bufferless driving headphones. I'm using this AD797 in L/R and buffer bypass and it sounds quite good. I think it sounds better then using AD8397 in the buffer.Too bad I dont have AD8599 to try.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Alright thanks.


----------



## Sieg9198

-edited-

 nevermind, problem solved


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Shopper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It will most definitely sound much fuller and more powerful/dynamic with the LMH6655's. These are really very good opamps for driving headphones @ supply voltages not above 12V (I used them in a portable amp powered @ 12V with my HD650).

 Also the AD797 is not quite recommendable for driving headphones bufferless - better the AD8599 if you really have to._

 

I don't agree...The AD797 outputs considerably more current than does the 8599. Both are very low noise. The 797, IMO, sounds much better than does the 8599 when bypassing the buffer, especially with phones that are difficult to drive. The AD797 has been one of Analogs flagship audio opamps for a number of years. 

 The THS4032 with the LMH6655 as a buffer is probably the best combination I have yet tried in the D1, although the LMH6655 does not work at all in the P2 IC-2 socket, as there is continuous oscillation and high-frequency feedback. It is the only opamp that I have yet tried in the P2 that is unstable.


----------



## idunno

I've been using my D1 for a couple months now via the optical in only. I just decided to give the usb connection a try, and windows gives me the following error message:

 "*USB Device Not Recognized*
 One of the USB devices attached to this computer has malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it..."

 If I click on that balloon, it gives me a list of connected devices, and lists the D1 as "Unknown Device". Am I missing some sort of usb-audio driver? I've had no luck searching for similar problems, or basic info on usb audio setup. I had thought that it should be simply plug-n-play. I'm hoping that there is some easy solution for this, that won't involve sending my burned-in D1 back to iBasso.

 I should note that this problem has occured on two systems, with all the latest patches; one running Win XP, the other Win XPx64. I've tried multiple usb cables, and varying sequences of plugging-in and powering-on.

 Has anyone had similar problems, or know of a solution? Thanks!


----------



## musicmaker

After several permutations & combinations of LR, buffer, DAC opamps, I have found a combo that sounds the best to my ears.

 LR: AD797, buffers: bypassed & DAC: LT6241

 At this stage, I'm going to stop futzing with browndogs, soldering guns, flux, solder smoke, ICs and stick with the above combo. The D1 sounds very VERY good now and I'm extremely pleased with this combo and have no intention of changing anything for now.


----------



## PPkiller

maybe it will be good if you can list down the list of opamps you have tried before settling with this combo..


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After several permutations & combinations of LR, buffer, DAC opamps, I have found a combo that sounds the best to my ears.

 LR: AD797, buffers: bypassed & DAC: LT6241

 At this stage, I'm going to stop futzing with browndogs, soldering guns, flux, solder smoke, ICs and stick with the above combo. The D1 sounds very VERY good now and I'm extremely pleased with this combo and have no intention of changing anything for now._

 

Hey thats what i'm using atm, i have try so many combos such using these opamps; opa2111,ad8656,ad8397,ltc1364,ltc6241,opa627,ad797 ,lm6643,lm4562,lt6234 and so far i like AD797 in L/R , buffers: bypassed & LTC6241 in DAC best.

 I also just order THS4032 and LMH6655 to try, apparently it sounds better than this setup.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cafe zeenuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey thats what i'm using atm, i have try so many combos such using these opamps; opa2111,ad8656,ad8397,ltc1364,ltc6241,opa627,ad797 ,lm6643,lm4562,lt6234 and so far i like AD797 in L/R , buffers: bypassed & LTC6241 in DAC best.

 I also just order THS4032 and LMH6655 to try, apparently it sounds better than this setup._

 

The bypassed AD797s and the THS4032 with the LMH6655 buffers are VERY close in SQ...the choice of which comes out on top will depend on personal preferences and choice of headphone. You cannot go wrong with either combo!


----------



## musicmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_maybe it will be good if you can list down the list of opamps you have tried before settling with this combo.._

 

Here are the opamps I've tried

 OPA2111, AD797, LMH6643, LM4562, LT1364, LT6241, LT6234, AD8656, AD8397, AD8599, LME4972 & stock of course


----------



## PPkiller

i tried ad4562 in l/r before and it's very unstable(the sound breaks up). dunno if lme49720 will be fine. but since the specs are similar, you may run into this problem.


----------



## jamato8

In the L/R postion the LM4562 is going to be at the lower end of the voltage rating and I wouldn't expect it to perform very good.


----------



## HiFlight

I found the same to be true with using both the AD4562 and the LME49720 in the LR position. Very unstable and much distortion and breaking up of the sound. I tried several different samples of each with the same result. These and the LM1028 are the only opamps I have so far found to be unstable in LR in the D1.


----------



## musicmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Shopper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Personally I would like to try LME49720 + LMH6655. Maybe together with the LT6234. This way you get all the numbers from 1 to 9 except 8 (I'm considering the single LME49710). Every number has its sonic character. More numbers, more completeness. No kidding. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






_

 

Oh my, think I'm going to have to sit down


----------



## musicmaker

The blue LED blinks on mine for a while upon startup. It eventually settles down. The batteries are fully charged. 

 Is this normal ?


----------



## pianomav

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The blue LED blinks on mine for a while upon startup. It eventually settles down. The batteries are fully charged. 

 Is this normal ?_

 

The blue LED blinks when the battery is weak but once it's got enough charge it should settle down. But if it blinks all the time upon start-up then there could be something wrong. The blue LED on mine is solid once I power it on.


----------



## Kel Ghu

Hi,

 Can you guys power the D1 with the USB port without using its DAC? I mean can you use the AUX IN while powering it by USB? Thank you!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kel Ghu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi,

 Can you guys power the D1 with the USB port without using its DAC? I mean can you use the AUX IN while powering it by USB? Thank you!_

 

Kel...

 The D1 cannot be powered by the USB, it is signal only. The batteries power the unit regardless of what is plugged in. 

 If you are running an aux input, then plug in the USB, the amp will continue to play, but if you plug in the USB first, the microprocessor will detect the USB and you cannot use the Aux Input. It then becomes an Aux OUTPUT. Quite a smart design. This allows one to use the D1 as a free-standing DAC and feed the signal to another amp, if desired. 

 I hope this clears things up for you.


----------



## musicmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Shopper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You really don't take it seriously. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

As in, this is normal ?


----------



## musicmaker

So the blinking blue LED is getting really annoying. I've emailed iBasso about it. The amp works perfectly apart from the LED that loves to blink. Might have to send it back to China for them to take a look. What a royal pain !


----------



## trb36

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the blinking blue LED is getting really annoying. I've emailed iBasso about it. The amp works perfectly apart from the LED that loves to blink. Might have to send it back to China for them to take a look. What a royal pain !_

 

A lot of people just use a small piece of electrical tape to cover up LEDs that bother them - if you think sending it back is too much of a hassle.


----------



## musicmaker

Has anyone else experienced/experiencing this issue with the blue LED blinking ?


----------



## jamato8

I haven't but I would guess that it is the chip malfunctioning and making it blink as an indication that the battery is low, even if it isn't.


----------



## HiFlight

Early on there was a few posts that addressed the problem of the blinking LED. IIRC, it was deemed to be either a bad solder connection or fault in the LED itself. iBasso did correct the problem in later amps and fixed the ones that were not functioning correctly. 

 If it were me, I would check the solder points and reheat them before proceeding further.


----------



## musicmaker

ok thanks. I'll check the solder points.


----------



## DennyL

Well, I'm no longer an op-amp rolling virgin, I just swapped the buffers and the L/R in my D1, going for LM4562s and an OPA2111, Well, I got through it but I still feel emotionally drained. I didn't find it easy, mainly because getting eight little thin legs to go symultaneously down eight little holes in a very confined space, using fingers the size of cucumbers, isn't easy. And when I had done it one channel didn't work, so I had to put the original buffers back, and now it does work and sounds better than stock, just on the strength of the OPA2111. I guess one of my LM4562s is faulty, or maybe I damaged it handling it, although I tried to be very careful.

 Other areas of difficulty for me were not knowing exactly what to pull off in the area of the L/R, as there is a sub-assembly there that is quite complicated (op-amp on adaptor with black plastic 'sleeves' on the legs, making it unclear to me where it should separate), and when I pulled hard enough something 'gave' and showed me the way. Then, I had to guess which way around to put the OPA2111, because, yes, it has a notch in the middle of one end, while the removed adaptor had one _corner_ coloured white. I know, I'm a nooby making heavy weather of all this.

 If I want to plough on should I just get more LM4562s and try again, or can anyone suggest and interesting alternative to them (I know that alternatives have been proposed, but I sort of drifted away from this thread on about page 150, and I'm wondering what the latest thinking is). Maybe I'll try to get hold of an LTC6241 for the DAC.

 Thanks for all the efforts and advice of head-fiers more knowledgeable than me, who got me this far.


----------



## jamato8

I would think the 4562 is ok, maybe one leg wasn't in. I always "adjust" the legs of a new opamp on a flat surface before I insert it so that it matches up with the 8 holes and then everything goes much easier. I don't find that the 4562 has the best sound. To me it is a little HiFi sounding. Ron (HiFlight) has made some excellent suggestions on buffers but you are on the right track. 

 Cucumber fingers, cute.


----------



## DennyL

Thanks for your comments, Jamato, and Happy New Year!


----------



## Pete7

How is this unit with IEM's and is it quiet under A/C power?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

It is very good with IEM's and makes my Livewires, SE530 and Denon C700 sing! And quiet too.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cafe zeenuts* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey thats what i'm using atm, i have try so many combos such using these opamps; opa2111,ad8656,ad8397,ltc1364,ltc6241,opa627,ad797 ,lm6643,lm4562,lt6234 and so far i like AD797 in L/R , buffers: bypassed & LTC6241 in DAC best.

 I also just order THS4032 and LMH6655 to try, apparently it sounds better than this setup._

 


 i just received my lmh6655 and my initial impression is as follow...


 comparing ad8066 vs lmh6655 with opa627 for l/r and ad8656 for lpf,

 when i pop in the lmh6655, straight away i notice the sound is sharper, soundstage appears to be closer(ad8066 sound stage really amaze me.. superb is the word i will describe it, u can get 'lost' in it..).. further listening confirm that lmh6655 does not sound that deep in the bass.. and it does not have the bass impact i get from ad8066. 

 the above is my impression from the first hour of listening to lmh6655.. it may improve with more time... but i guess ad8066 has more 'win' and i'm trying to resist swapping over.. 

 side note... ad8066 initially will sound 'closer' in the soundstage.. but as time pass it opens up..


----------



## PPkiller

i swap back to ad8066.. lmh6655 seems to be screaming at me.. 

 the comparison above is done useing power adaptor instead of battery..


----------



## Pete7

Just ordered a D1, some additional AD797's on ebay, and some dip sockets from Digikey. I really enjoy the AD797 in the L/R of the P2, with dual AD8610's in 3/4, so the mod with AD797's with bypassed buffers sounds real good. I had been considering the Pico, and to a lesser degree the Predator, but I have doubts about a DAC being connected by USB. I had a Micro DAC a while back, and to me it sounded a lot better being connected via optical. I've also doubts about the sound of any amp section being compatible with my ES2's. Op-amp rolling, while being kind of tedious (at least to an obsessive-compulsive like myself that can't stop) seems like the best way to match up to any headphone.


----------



## jamato8

What is it you like about the 797 in the P2?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Shopper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...as compared to the stock opamp?_

 

No, as compared to peanut butter and jelly


----------



## jamato8

Not as compared to anything except the rendering of music. I like the 627 because it does this . . . . I like the 5534 bypassed to class A because. . . . I like the AD797 because it does this for the music . . . . 

 I was curious what the 797 does for the music or doesn't do. 

 I like peanut butter and grape or strawberry jam but do not often get the treat. . . so sad. . :^(


----------



## Pete7

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What is it you like about the 797 in the P2?_

 

I think it sounds a bit like AD8397, but more neutral sounding, and not as power hungry. The mids aren't quite as prominent, and the bass has about the same impactfulness but tighter. Imaging is very good. I think AD797 is a great op-amp for rock music, which is mainly what I listen to, and it just sounds right with my Westone ES2's; which are really finicky when it comes to op-amps. It was my favorite op-amp in the HR-2 as well, and I tried like 7 different op-amp combos in that,too. The P2 with the AD797 in L/R sounds a lot, to me, like the original Hornet with a better soundstage,better detail, and tighter bass with the same impact. I really like the stock LT1364 also, but I can't seem to find a good match for it in the 3/4 channel. Another LT chip maybe? I have mostly AD chips laying around,which for the most part don't sound "quite right" with LT1364. The LT1364 seems smoother, with better highs, not as much bass quantity but decent bass. Hard to compare as I can't do it directly without changing chips out. I also haven't experienced any problems with AD797 at the lowest gain setting either.


----------



## Pete7

I also inquired about having the gain setting of the D1 lowered to either 2 or 3, but if not than just to have it sent as is. I think if I had to I could just lower the Wave ouput on my sound card using optical output. I'm really looking forward to getting the D1 and hoping it trashes the sound of my imod, which it should handily.


----------



## jamato8

What do you think of the TH compared to the P2?


----------



## Pete7

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you think of the TH compared to the P2?_

 

Well- I should have taken the Tomahawk out of my sig, as I just sold it-which says a lot. For the year I had it, I really liked the Tomahawk. I've always like the RSA house sound. Then I bought the P2 after reading the thread, and with pretty much any comination of op-amps, it just sounds more powerful than the Tomahawk. Not sure about the spec comparison, but it sounds like the P2 is putting a lot more current through my phones than the Tomahawk, producing a more defined and cohesive sound. Guess I missed the op-amp rolling,too, although with me it's a curse as well as a blessing. I'm really kind of surprised the P2 hasn't caught on more with Head-Fiers, especially considering quite a lot own the D1. When I first saw the internal board pics of the P2, I was like $139? You gotta be kidding me.


----------



## jamato8

The P2 is very overlooked. It has a discrete output with plenty of power. People have NO idea what they are missing.


----------



## powertoold

Where's the D2


----------



## Pete7

iBasso responded to my inquiry about adjusting the gain down and said it couldn't be done, and it would ship within 48 hours. Maybe I should have made the inquiry before I paid for the unit. No biggie, I'm sure it'll be fine.


----------



## Pete7

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The P2 is very overlooked. It has a discrete output with plenty of power. People have NO idea what they are missing._

 

How's the D1 amp compared to the P2? I'm hoping combined with the DAC it sounds close. I'm going to use the D1 out of my computer and save the batteries in my imods and P2 for the hour or two a day I actually go portable.


----------



## jamato8

The D1 with rolled opamps and internal dac is very good. The D1 with the P2 is extremely good.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

D1 related talk for the D1 thread: my D1 does exclusive duty as my home optical-in DAC, feeding my Darkvoice or PIMETA at my bedside with tunes from my D-303 PCDP, or iRiver H-140, and occasionally the Macbook. A Shanling compact CDP, or maybe a modded Oppo 980 might be in the cards, to feed into the D1 (I was going to mod the Sammy HD941 but it is needed in the home theater).

 Now, back to the P2. I like the sound of my P2 a lot, and honestly haven't listened to my Tomahawk since before Thanksgiving, once my Headsix and Lyrix were fully burned in. But the P2 charging circuit started acting up at 100+ hours, and I have a new mainboard that shipped on Monday to me. But, P2 has a lot of competition in my home, too many amps vying for my attention.

 The Headsix and Lyrix get most of the portable duty, but I keep the TH in case I need 400 hours out of 2 AAA batteries. I recently bought a used Xin SuperMacro 3 with all the switches (that was updated right before Thanksgiving) just because it was a good deal - but haven't had time to really study and listen to it. It will likely get my extra set of AD797 before the P2 or Lyrix, because while those amps are "rollable" too, they sound good enough to leave stock. The Xin doesn't sound bad, I just haven't learned how it sounds yet.

 Most recently, I have been focusing on listening to the RSA Predator, which at 116 hours still hasn't grown balls but has no big faults at all right now. It seems to have good Synergy with my new Edition 9. 

 At some point I will have to start thinning the herd, and the D2 isn't in the cards right now.


----------



## jamato8

Yeah, the 303 is a nice player and feeding the D1 there is a nice signal out to work with.


----------



## Pete7

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Shopper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks! So the AD797 sounds like it's more aggressive and/or 'clynical' than the LT1364, more bassy too. I may very well prefer the LT1364 or the LT1361 for my DAC. Good news...even if I do have all them opamps at hand 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The AD797 is more impactful definitely. I find AD8397 aggressive and forward sounding, the AD797 seems tamer by comparison. Not sure about clinical. The word clinical to me is almost synonymous with analytical, and I don't find the AD797 to be analytical. It's got a warmth to it, and really great imaging- I think the best I've heard of any op-amp. Sometimes it almost seems 3-D like. I believe the LT1364 has a more airy and balanced sound sig, and has less of a colored sound to it.


----------



## haymaker18

deleted


----------



## Dash

I am all thumbs with DIY. I have read back through the thread and the different op-amps in different places manages to confuse me. I know there are 2 buffer chips, one op-amp and one dac chip, correct? And swapping the buffers can change the current, helping my W1000s? They need current. So knowing that I have zero solder skills and need direct drop in solutions that hopefully I will not mangle, would it be best to start with the buffers? Please make some suggestions for direct drop in chips that might synergize well with a low impendance, high current can like the W1000.

 Thanks in Advance.


----------



## HiFlight

The AD8397 is a popular opamp that can be used very successfully in the buffer section of the D1. It outputs more current than most any other usable opamp, however it is available only in SOIC configuration and needs to be soldered onto and adapter to fit the DIP sockets in the D1. 

 The OPA2111 in combination with the AD8397 is a very nice sounding combination that will provide about as much current as is possible to achieve in the D1. 

 You can PM me for further details, if you like.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pete7* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The AD797 is more impactful definitely. I find AD8397 aggressive and forward sounding, the AD797 seems tamer by comparison. Not sure about clinical. The word clinical to me is almost synonymous with analytical, and I don't find the AD797 to be analytical. It's got a warmth to it, and really great imaging- I think the best I've heard of any op-amp. Sometimes it almost seems 3-D like. I believe the LT1364 has a more airy and balanced sound sig, and has less of a colored sound to it._

 

In Yoda Speak, that would be "Definitely not clinical, the AD797 is." 

 I like the AD797 more than my OPA2111 because I got the increased bass impact, without losing the wide imaging or smoothness, while being a little more forward and warm. I would imagine the LT1364 is between the AD797 and OPA2111. The OPA2111 makes to venue sound bigger than it really is and the instruments are still too distant, although the OPA2111 clearly improves upon the stock AD823 (1st gen) in that respect as well. The LT1364 is perfect for my P2, but I am not giving up the AD797 (AD8397 buffers) in my D1 either.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Shopper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When The P2 with the AD797 in L/R sounds a lot, to me, like the original Hornet with a better soundstage,better detail, and tighter bass with the same impact._

 

Or, you could say, "the P2 with the AD797 in L/R sounds a lot like a Hornet M".


----------



## Pete7

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pete7* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ The P2 with the AD797 in L/R sounds a lot, to me, like the original Hornet with a better soundstage,better detail, and tighter bass with the same impact._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or, you could say, "the P2 with the AD797 in L/R sounds a lot like a Hornet M". 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No, not like a Hornet M at all. The Hornet M lacks the visceral quality and impact that the original Hornet had and the P2 has with AD797 in L/R. I owned both versions of the Hornets, the SR-71, and the Tomahawk. The Hornet M I found shared a lot of similarities in sound signature to the SR-71 and Tomahawk, while the original was really it's own beast. Quite a few ES2 owners found the original Hornet a perfect match, myself included; so to find something as synergistic or maybe even more so is quite a surprise.


----------



## Dash

So the LT1364 is a dual chip that does not require an adapter? If thats the case, then it sounds like a very workable solution for me.


----------



## tracyrick

My D1 experience in the couple of weeks of listening has been very positive. Worth the purchase already.

 The D1 DAC (optical out) definitely adds more clarity and details to the sound vs. just either the D1 amp, or my Portaphile V2 Maxxed. There also might be a slightly larger soundstage. Now I'm trying to decide if that "clarity" carries with it a certain harshness/siblance and lack of bass. Anyone else notice this?

 For example, just listening to my V2 (no DAC), I think I hear more bass and more smoothness, but less clarity and details.

 Should I try a different opamp than the stock LT1364? Can I retain the D1 clarity, but get rid of the "harshness" and add some bass and smoothness with a different opamp?

 I'm also going to try listening to the D1 DAC only > V2 amp some more and see if that solves my concern. So far it didn't seem to matter - the D1 DAC makes these big changes to the sound whether on its own, or with either the D1 amp also or the V2 amp. So I'm guessing that changing the D1 amp opamp won't help.

 My Rig is: H140 > D1 &/or Portaphile V2 > ER-4S

 Side note: The ER-4S can be harsh on the treble and weak on the bass in general, but I'm used to that after a couple of years with them and don't notice any concern with my V2 amp only. I really think the D1 DAC is doing something all by itself here.

 Brief example of what I'm hearing so far on 2 different CDs (does not actually capture everything I mentioned above, but some of it):
 Positive - Pearl Jam's first CD, "Ten" - With the DAC, I can now hear that quite a bit of reverb was used on these songs, the overall effect being quite pleasant. I'm also picking up more details in general and the larger soundstage. Nothing negative actually when listening to this CD.

 Negative - Compared to Pearl Jam's latest CD, "Pearl Jam" - Obviously mastered/mixed at a higher volume/loudness. Using the DAC, this CD Doesn't have the overall reverb effect from "Ten." Slightly muddy. When the treble sounds (cymbals, etc.) come through, they are harsh to my ears.


----------



## jamato8

It could be that the dac section isn't covering up the problems in the recording and letting everything through, which can be good or bad. What format are you using on the iRiver? It takes up a lot of room but I am finding I like WAV the best. I was using Apple lossless but I did some comparisons. I still have a bunch on lossless because of space and in some situations I'm not looking for the very last bit of detail but I do want some reference recordings on my iRiver as well for comparisons of the amps/dacs I have.


----------



## tracyrick

FLAC, which is why I got the H140 when my H120 wasn't enough to hold my music in FLAC.


----------



## earfanatic

I just found this thread and the D1.

 It has everything what I need, it's a pity I can not afford it right now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 But I couldn't find out how does it work if I do not want to use headphones and the headphone amp. How can it be used as an USB dac?

 To see my point I need an USB dac and a headphone amp for home use. But I often move my laptop to the couch and I like the ability to take things with me. I do not want to use amp for my mp3 player it's fime for me, but I want tp replace the integtrated soundcard on my laptop and the ability to drive a headphone. Do You think the D1 would be a good choice considering I will not be able to spent much more than the D1 costs.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *earfanatic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just found this thread and the D1.

 It has everything what I need, it's a pity I can not afford it right now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I couldn't find out how does it work if I do not want to use headphones and the headphone amp. How can it be used as an USB dac?

 To see my point I need an USB dac and a headphone amp for home use. But I often move my laptop to the couch and I like the ability to take things with me. I do not want to use amp for my mp3 player it's fime for me, but I want tp replace the integtrated soundcard on my laptop and the ability to drive a headphone. Do You think the D1 would be a good choice considering I will not be able to spent much more than the D1 costs._

 

The Aux on the front of the D1 functions as an input or output, depending upon what is hooked up to it. It does this automatically. You can bypass the internal amp and use the D1 as a USB dac. You could use a mini to RCA IC, which what I have for various products. It works quite well.


----------



## bobby001

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It could be that the dac section isn't covering up the problems in the recording and letting everything through, which can be good or bad. What format are you using on the iRiver? It takes up a lot of room but I am finding I like WAV the best. I was using Apple lossless but I did some comparisons. I still have a bunch on lossless because of space and in some situations I'm not looking for the very last bit of detail but I do want some reference recordings on my iRiver as well for comparisons of the amps/dacs I have._

 

You are not human 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Find differences between alac/flac and wav it's quite impossible 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Please don't let this kind of idea run over this forum. It's really ridiculous ...


----------



## jamato8

I think the up and coming of Reference Recordings 24 bit masters to disc (not CD red book) to transfer to hard drives to then be utilized by 24 bit dacs could deliver some excellent sound but I doubt many will pick up on this as it is a niche market. Many people are happy with mp3 lossy format on 4gb nanos but if they are happy with that I do not presume to tell them what they are hearing. It would be nice to find out what the dac is in the D1. I have heard that the D2 will have a 24bit dac and I wonder how compatible this will all be with a 24 bit recording on the hard drive?


----------



## basman

Hi J8,

 Regarding 24bits recording are you refering to the disc available in records bar with "AUDIOPHILE RECORDING 24bit/192khz Remastering" label?

 Thanks


----------



## PPkiller

i jus received ltc6241hvh... after comparing it with ad8656.. i pop back ad8656 into the dac socket... i like the bass from ad8656... ltc6241 seems to sound sharper.. maybe that explain why it seems to have more details in its high and mid..

 after trying out lmh6655 for buffer and ltc6241.. i'm back to my original ad8656(lpf)-> opa627(l/r) -> ad8066(buf)... hopefully i can find and do a comparison with someone who has ad797 in his D1...

 do note that i did not burn in lmh6655 and ltc6241 before doing a review.. looks like i'm pretty impatient.... 

 ad8656(lpf)-> opa627(l/r) -> ad8066(buf) do sound very good.. i hope someone can try this combi and let me know how it sound to their ears..


----------



## earfanatic

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Aux on the front of the D1 functions as an input or output, depending upon what is hooked up to it. It does this automatically. You can bypass the internal amp and use the D1 as a USB dac. You could use a mini to RCA IC, which what I have for various products. It works quite well._

 

Thanks! I read it the aux works as line out when optical input is used I wasn't sure if It does the same with USB input.

 Thanks again.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *basman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi J8,

 Regarding 24bits recording are you refering to the disc available in records bar with "AUDIOPHILE RECORDING 24bit/192khz Remastering" label?

 Thanks_

 

No, these aren't CD's but discs containing 24 bit music by the Reference label that you down load to your hard drive and then play through a 24 bit dac. They aren't out yet but are to be shown at CES.


----------



## PPkiller

595... it could be that the 3 opamps i used synergise very well... the bass and the soundstage goes very deep and wide without compromising the treble... very very good imaging and realistic bass..


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_do note that i did not burn in lmh6655 and ltc6241 before doing a review.. looks like i'm pretty impatient...._

 

Op amp burn in?

 I wasn't aware of this.

 I am currently burning in my D1 - I understand it needs 200+ hours - please confirm/indicate otherwise.

 I will then opamp roll - what burn in time(s) do opamps need?

 Thanks in anticipation for any responses.

 Ian


----------



## jamato8

There are differing opinions on burn-in. Some people do not believe there are any significant changes over time and some do. Often 100 hours or so allows the unit to settle, caps to form and in general the properties of the components to do what ever they are going to do. I have experienced longer periods of burn-in but that is my experience and does not constitute anything more than my own experience. 

 Anyway 100 hours is safe and then you can try some different opamps if you want and see if you hear any changes and gauge if it is or isn't more too your liking. That's what I would do anyway.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are differing opinions on burn-in. Some people do not believe there are any significant changes over time and some do. Often 100 hours or so allows the unit to settle, caps to form and in general the properties of the components to do what ever they are going to do. I have experienced longer periods of burn-in but that is my experience and does not constitute anything more than my own experience. 

 Anyway 100 hours is safe and then you can try some different opamps if you want and see if you hear any changes and gauge if it is or isn't more too your liking. That's what I would do anyway._

 

Thanks, jamato8.

 I have considerable burn in experience with ICs and amps (numerous RSA models) so am used to anything up to 800+ hours (the infamous Tomahawk 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).

 It was just the first I'd heard of it improving the SQ of opamps. So I'll take your guidance of 100 hours potentially for opamps to 'settle'.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, jamato8.

 I have considerable burn in experience with ICs and amps (numerous RSA models) so am used to anything up to 800+ hours (the infamous Tomahawk 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).

 It was just the first I'd heard of it improving the SQ of opamps. So I'll take your guidance of 100 hours potentially for opamps to 'settle'._

 

Sorry, I misread your post. On opamps I have not experienced anything near 100 hours to hear what they are going to sound like. I have heard changes around 20 hours, with smoothing out of the high frequencies and other qualities but again this is variable and sometimes it takes just a couple of minutes to know that you may or may not like an opamp. If I think I may like a certain opamp then I leave it a few days and decide as time passes.


----------



## Capunk

iBasso owners, Foobar2K & ASIO4ALL users. 
 Has anyone of you using "Secret Rabbit Code Resampler plugin"? 
 Does iBasso D1 support 24/192 over USB connection? 

 I tried the resampler (via DSP), and only manage to resample to 48.000 Hz with ASIO4ALL as the output device. 

 But when I change it to DS:USB AUDIO CODEC , suddenly "Output Format/Post Processing" option is visible, and I set "Output Data format" to 24-Bit, and then I change the output rate on SRC resampler settings to "192000 Hz". It works but a lagging a lot, so I set down to "96000 Hz", and the playback is better. 

 Does this mean I successfully resample the music playback to 24/96 and D1 successfully accept it? or I basically only upscaling the music files to 24/96 then Windows downscale it to 16/48 before transport it to iBasso D1 ?


----------



## paladinca

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i jus received ltc6241hvh... after comparing it with ad8656.. i pop back ad8656 into the dac socket... i like the bass from ad8656... ltc6241 seems to sound sharper.. maybe that explain why it seems to have more details in its high and mid.._

 

I tried using ltc6241 with other stock opamps and I got better soundstage and more details. But those details sound a bit bright/sharp to my ears and are somethings I want to avoid. In terms of brightess (to my ears), ltc6241>ad8616>ad8656. It's weird since ltc6241 is regarded as a tube-like op-amp.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Capunk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ or I basically only upscaling the music files to 24/96 then Windows downscale it to 16/48 before transport it to iBasso D1 ?_

 

this is correct..


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *paladinca* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tried using ltc6241 with other stock opamps and I got better soundstage and more details. But those details sound a bit bright/sharp to my ears and are somethings I want to avoid. In terms of brightess (to my ears), ltc6241>ad8616>ad8656. It's weird since ltc6241 is regarded as a tube-like op-amp._

 

i agree with you... it is also one of the reason why i pop back ad8656... at first i thought it maybe my combi of ad8066 + ltc6241 which will make it kinda too bright/sharp to me.. maybe it will work better with ad8397 as my experience with ad8397 as buffer tells me it should correct the brightness...


----------



## Pete7

Received mine today. Wow, this is another great deal from iBasso. I've got it running from the optical out into my computer. Out of the box, it already sounds more detailed than my imod/P2 combo. And amazingly, even with no change in the gain, my Westone ES2's work perfectly with no hiss and with good control over the volume. No hum running with the A/C adapter while charging either. I'm glad I resisted the temptation to get a Pico or Predator, as this will fill my desktop need quite adequately. The LT1345 sounds better implemented in the D1 than in the P2 to my ears, but that could be simply because it's being fed better.
 Edit: I meant LT1364- not LT1345


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pete7* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Received mine today. Wow, this is another great deal from iBasso. I've got it running from the optical out into my computer. Out of the box, it already sounds more detailed than my imod/P2 combo. And amazingly, even with no change in the gain, my Westone ES2's work perfectly with no hiss and with good control over the volume. No hum running with the A/C adapter while charging either. I'm glad I resisted the temptation to get a Pico or Predator, as this will fill my desktop need quite adequately. The LT1345 sounds better implemented in the D1 than in the P2 to my ears, but that could be simply because it's being fed better._

 

You can have fun by using the P2 as the amp with it also. I think this is a nice combination but with all the opamp choices it is hard to tack down an exact sound but they are great bargains and in my opinion, after looking and the internals of so many amps and have designed and made tube equipment, quite well made.


----------



## Pete7

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Shopper* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you mean LT1354? I have never tried it, as it just seems like a "slower" LT1361 and LT1364; maybe it sounds very good._

 

sorry- I meant LT1364. 1345 was my MOS(miltary occupational specialty I believe it stands for) in the USMC. Guess I've been programmed...LOL.


----------



## Pete7

I've got it running with AD797's with the buffers bypassed. It's very clean sounding and I'm very impressed with the DAC. I don't remember the highs being this extended with the Lite DAC, nor as detailed.


----------



## musicmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pete7* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've got it running with AD797's with the buffers bypassed. It's very clean sounding and I'm very impressed with the DAC. I don't remember the highs being this extended with the Lite DAC, nor as detailed._

 

I like the AD797s in the LR with buffers bypassed too. What opamp are you using in the dac ? How does the amp section sound relative to the P2 ?


----------



## Pete7

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the AD797s in the LR with buffers bypassed too. What opamp are you using in the dac ? How does the amp section sound relative to the P2 ?_

 

The now stock LTC6241 in the DAC. I tried the unit with the P2 and I really didn't hear a whole lot of difference. Maybe upon further testing, I'll be able to hear some differences, but I also Have AD797's in the L/R channel of the P2.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pete7* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've got it running with AD797's with the buffers bypassed. It's very clean sounding and I'm very impressed with the DAC. I don't remember the highs being this extended with the Lite DAC, nor as detailed._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the AD797s in the LR with buffers bypassed too. What opamp are you using in the dac ? How does the amp section sound relative to the P2 ?_

 

Have you guys tried the AD797 with AD8397 in the buffers? Is it really that much better with the jumpers in the buffers? 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pete7* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The now stock LTC6241 in the DAC. I tried the unit with the P2 and I really didn't hear a whole lot of difference. Maybe upon further testing, I'll be able to hear some differences, but I also Have AD797's in the L/R channel of the P2._

 

I have two extra AD797 but I don't have enough room in the P2 to to fit the 2:1 in there. But the P2 sounds so good stock, I am not sure it is worth it. My problem is that I have so many good sounding amps that I never can decide which one to use, or if I should sell any. I suppose that's a better problem to have than trying to figure out how to make them sound better.


----------



## jamato8

Yeah, its a lot nicer having too many good sounding amps than too many that don't sound good. I think most all recent amps are pretty good. They have to be if they want to sell them and the knowledge base of good design has jumped a few pegs in the last couple of years.


----------



## Pete7

I did do a little more comparing with the D1 amp section and the P2. This time in the D1 I used THS4032 with the LMH6643's (which come stock now) as buffers, and in the P2 I used THS4032 in L/R and LT4236 in 3/4. The P2 definitely sounds like the better amp, although the difference isn't all that noticeable unless you really look for it. With the P2 the sound is a little more textured and detailed, and the soundstage is closer, music a little more impactful. Both sound terrific, and if I had to give a percentage difference between the two it would be like 3-4%. I think I'm giving AD797's a break in both units as now I want a more balanced sound. The THS4032's seem to have a little more in the highs. The AD797's with the buffers bypassed sounded pretty decent in the D1, but with my ES2's it sounded a little dark.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pete7* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I'm giving AD797's a break in both units as now I want a more balanced sound. The THS4032's seem to have a little more in the highs. The AD797's with the buffers bypassed sounded pretty decent in the D1, but with my ES2's it sounded a little dark._

 

Do you think the AD797s with buffers bypassed sounds better than the current stock model? I didn't know the AD797s sounded "unbalanced" in their presentation (although, I guess every amp will sound unbalanced when compared to another one that you consider correctly balanced). Does it sound dark/heavy in the D1?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pete7* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did do a little more comparing with the D1 amp section and the P2. This time in the D1 I used THS4032 with the LMH6643's (which come stock now) as buffers, and in the P2 I used THS4032 in L/R and LT4236 in 3/4. The P2 definitely sounds like the better amp, although the difference isn't all that noticeable unless you really look for it. With the P2 the sound is a little more textured and detailed, and the soundstage is closer, music a little more impactful. Both sound terrific, and if I had to give a percentage difference between the two it would be like 3-4%. I think I'm giving AD797's a break in both units as now I want a more balanced sound. The THS4032's seem to have a little more in the highs. The AD797's with the buffers bypassed sounded pretty decent in the D1, but with my ES2's it sounded a little dark._

 

If mrarroyo, Jamato8 or HiFlight could comment on this and their own recent findings, that would be a great to all of us who have followed their D1 opamp rolling trials from the beginning.


----------



## Pete7

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you think the AD797s with buffers bypassed sounds better than the current stock model? I didn't know the AD797s sounded "unbalanced" in their presentation (although, I guess every amp will sound unbalanced when compared to another one that you consider correctly balanced). Does it sound dark/heavy in the D1?_

 

I believe when I said "balanced", I meant a little more neutral. I'm a very finicky person when it comes to op-amps, and my taste seems to change often.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pete7* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe when I said "balanced", I meant a little more neutral. I'm a very finicky person when it comes to op-amps, and my taste seems to change often._

 

Fair enough. I'm becoming more finicky by the minute, so I am beginning to know what you mean! What do you find lacking in the AD797s with buffer bypassed. I haven't tried them yet and just wanted to know what you thought of the sound. I do plan to experiment with them, so your opinion might help me know what I'm getting into...


----------



## Pete7

I wouldn't say that AD797 is lacking anything, I was just looking for an op-amp with a little more treble extension. The AD797 actually has good treble extension, but I wanted something a little more. What I would suggest to you, is read through the thread or search every post by HiFlight, whose tried out pretty much everything imaginable, and decide what the best couple of configutations are and get the op-amps for them, and let your own ears decide. In the end, that's all that's going to matter. Even the stock configuration sounds excellent, so no worries.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If mrarroyo, Jamato8 or HiFlight could comment on this and their own recent findings, that would be a great to all of us who have followed their D1 opamp rolling trials from the beginning._

 

You know, you just reminded me that I need to get w/ Vorlon1, HiFlight, and perhaps Boomana to go over some of these portable amps. I will try to set up something by the end of January. The LHM6643 as buffers in the D1 is my current choice. However I have yet to listen to the AD797 in the D1.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If mrarroyo, Jamato8 or HiFlight could comment on this and their own recent findings, that would be a great to all of us who have followed their D1 opamp rolling trials from the beginning._

 

In some applications, and with some headphones, the AD797 bypassed can sound a little dark. I have been using the THS4032 in both my D1 and P2 for some time now, and like the sound very much. 

 I had tried the THS4032 a long time back in a couple of my Xin amps, but it proved to be unstable with them, probably due to the very high slew rate. It has, however, proven to be stable in both iBasso amps. It has a good output power and can be bypassed for most headphones. It has no difficulty driving my HD650s without buffers.


----------



## Andreas_D

Hi there, it's my first post here and after reading the forum a couple of days I still have a problem unsolved. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I currently have a PC based audio system and 2 pair of headpnoes: Grado SR60, Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80ohm. I have a budget of 300$ I intend to buy an USB combo dac/amp or an external sound card. I almost decided to buy D1(or the new D2, which I understood it has a better dac and amp than D1) but I want to know how stays D1 comparing to E-mu 0404 usb. 
*Which has a better dac/ amp? (D1 , D2 or 404usb)
 Is D1 / D2 (or even 0404 usb) powerfull enough to drive Beyerdynamic DT770 / 80ohm Pro ?*

 Thank you!


----------



## jamato8

The D2 isn't out yet but is supposed to hit the streets in the last part of this month. The dac section will be very good, the Wolfson, the same dac that the Pico uses and the amp section will be much like the iBasso P2. With the power of the P2 (D2) it should work well with the 770 as should the D1 with the right opamps/buffers. I don't know about the 404usb. The D2 will be the size of the Pico but longer so you can change opamps in it if you want to.


----------



## PPkiller

Hiflight, have you tried this combi, 6241 lpf -> ad743 l/r -> lmh6655 ? it sounds very much like ad797 but yet maintain the good from ad743


----------



## haymaker18

Can anyone tell me what I need to buy in order to try THS4032 and LMH6655 buffers? I can find the THS4032 and LMH6655 but how many of each do I need (I buy two buffers, right, but how many of the THS4032)? 

 Do I need to buy adapters to solder them onto? Right now I have the AD797s in on a Brown Dog and the buffers bypassed, but I'm not sure what else I'll need to change to the above.

 Sorry for the Noob question.


----------



## cafe zeenuts

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone tell me what I need to buy in order to try THS4032 and LMH6655 buffers? I can find the THS4032 and LMH6655 but how many of each do I need (I buy two buffers, right, but how many of the THS4032)? 

 Do I need to buy adapters to solder them onto? Right now I have the AD797s in on a Brown Dog and the buffers bypassed, but I'm not sure what else I'll need to change to the above.

 Sorry for the Noob question._

 

You'll just need to buy 1 x THS4032 and 2 x LMH6655, total 3 chip all are soic. 

 i like this setup a bit more than AD797 buffer bypassed, it has more timbre in the drums. This is all before i cooked my D1 trying to adding more BG caps.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hiflight, have you tried this combi, 6241 lpf -> ad743 l/r -> lmh6655 ? it sounds very much like ad797 but yet maintain the good from ad743_

 

Yes, it is a very nice sounding combination. The AD743 has always been one of my favorites. The only drawback is that it has a bit higher current draw than many of the other LR opamps. 

 Interestingly, this opamp is used most in sonar applications and audio is not mentioned in the datasheet. It is, however, a very accurate, realistic-sounding device.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

How would my AD746 do? I haven't tried it yet.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it is a very nice sounding combination. The AD743 has always been one of my favorites. The only drawback is that it has a bit higher current draw than many of the other LR opamps. 

 Interestingly, this opamp is used most in sonar applications and audio is not mentioned in the datasheet. It is, however, a very accurate, realistic-sounding device._

 

thanks.. will you prefer 797 with bypassed or 743 with lmh6655 or ths4032 with lmh6655? i manage to listen to both of them briefly(797 & 743), but didn't manage to compare them directly...


----------



## basman

Just ordered D1 to be used as DAC only and will be using the P2 as AMP. Does the volume knob of D1 is disabled when signal is fed from SPDIF inputof D1?

 Thanks


----------



## Dual

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *basman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just ordered D1 to be used as DAC only and will be using the P2 as AMP. Does the volume knob of D1 is disabled when signal is fed from SPDIF inputof D1?

 Thanks_

 

Yes, the volume knob is disabled when using the D1 as DAC only.


----------



## basman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dual* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, the volume knob is disabled when using the D1 as DAC only._

 

Thanks Dual.


----------



## MoAv

I've been trying some rolling and found that for some reason the 8066 and both of my 2111 didn't work in the L/R position when the stock buffers are placed and the 8656 in the DAC. though the 8066 is working in the DAC and the 2111 in the buffers. Anyone can guess why is that ?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Hmmm, not sure. I think the original use of the 8066 was with the 8397 as buffers?


----------



## MoAv

So you're saying I've to find out which opamp goes where ? and with whom ?
 How do I know that ?

 Sorry for the lame questions but kinda noob in the rolling business .

 I'm currently enjoying the 8565 with the 4841 very much and would like to upgrade the buffers from stock. Which would you guys recommend ? (that would work with the 2111 in the L/R too since I haven't tried it)


----------



## jamato8

The is the layout of the opamps. The one on the left is for the dac, the single one on top is for the L/R channels, and the two bottom ones are the buffers.


----------



## MoAv

Thanks Jamato, that info I figured out already.
 What I meant was, not all opamps can go on every position, if I understand correctly, now how can I know which can go where ? (by the specs of the amp). Additionally, how can I know which opamp can go with another one as HeadphoneAddict suggested my problem is. (sorry for the Yoda speech dialect)


----------



## jamato8

HiFlight and others have posted a number of suggestions for the dac position, L/R and buffers. I have also put some of these posts on the first page.


----------



## MoAv

I appreciate the effort but I wanted to know how to get the combination by myself, out of curiosity. What parameters in the specs of the opamp to look for when trying to assign one in an amp.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoAv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I appreciate the effort but I wanted to know how to get the combination by myself, out of curiosity. What parameters in the specs of the opamp to look for when trying to assign one in an amp._

 

Oh, I see. Then you need to know the voltage being applied to the opamp, in this case, pin 8, and know what opamps work well within that range. You are also looking at the total swing of + and -. I am sure some will have a good explanation for you. There is also settling time, type of opamp, speed and other factors. There are some good articles that can be googled.


----------



## eduj

Just got my iBasso D1 today and i have a dumb question.How do i use the included adapter with Euro voltage (230-240v)? and Euro style plugs.Its a 2 flat prong adapter but says on it i can use it with 240v 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do i only need a 2 round prong adapter like this ?
New Travel Changer Adapter Plug US USA to European Euro - eBay (item 360013403848 end time Jan-17-08 17:32:54 PST)


----------



## jamato8

Looks like it would work to me. That is all you need. The AC to DC converter will work with 110 to 240.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MoAv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I appreciate the effort but I wanted to know how to get the combination by myself, out of curiosity. What parameters in the specs of the opamp to look for when trying to assign one in an amp._

 

MoAv...

 I look at supply voltage requirements, current draw, (lower is better) voltage noise levels, and square wave response, all of which can be easily found on the datasheets. Do a Google search for your opamp in question and one of the first hits should be a .pdf data sheet.


----------



## kiwirugby

I am not sure whether or not to post this here or in the P2 thread (so I posted in both! Sorry). I have found that when I want to use the D1 and P2 together using a pcdp as a source, I have to to first get the music started using only the D1 and then connect the D1 to the P2. If I start the music with both connected at the outset, I hear nothing.

 Any insights? Anything I am doing wrong?


----------



## haymaker18

Quick question:

 When I'm using the D1 as a DAC and running it through to another amp, do the buffers or L/R opamps affect that sound at all? Is the DAC opamp the only opamp that will affect the sound that enters the AMP? 

 I am just wondering if rolling those L/R opamps and buffer opamps will mess with the sound that's coming out of the DAC and into the other amp I have hooked up to it. I'm hoping not!

 -haymaker18


----------



## haymaker18

Alrighty, here's the results of my first opamp swap:

 *Note...headphones are Sennheiser HD650s and listening mostly to FLAC on Iriver H120 through Optical out or to CDs with Coax output.

 AD797s in L/R with buffers bypassed: sound is fierce and primal...bass is overwhelming. So much so, that I lose all clarity in the highs. Now, that's probably amazing for rock music, but I listen to classical almost exclusively and I can't afford to lose extension/clarity in the high range. Boy, though, that bass...it was fierce and I do miss that.

 AD797s in L/R with now-stock 6643s as buffers: tamed the fierceness of the 797s a little and it wasn't quite as overwhelming, but still didn't sound naturally balanced to me (agreeing with a previous poster). Better balance, but with my classical music obsession, it's VERY noticeable how artificially darkened the sound is (and how much clarity I lose on top).

 So for now, I'm back to stock and much happier. Sure, that wonderful energy from the 797s is gone, but at least I can hear all the instruments and they sound realistically balanced. I wish I could find something that expands the soundstage a bit and gives it more energy/presence without losing the balance and clarity.

 I am working on trying the TH4032 with buffers bypassed, as well as with stock buffers and LMH6655 buffers. I'm hoping to enjoy one of these combinations. 

 Any other suggestions for my music preferences?

 Is there any reason to roll the DAC opamp? I'm not noticing any deficiency in what I'm hearing right now, but is there a consensus choice on an improved DAC opamp?

 Also, I just got a Corda Move. I am planning to use the D1 as the DAC and plug the Move into the D1 to use Move as the amp. Is this a worthwhile venture? The sound should improve, correct? Also, will changing buffer or L/R opamps in the D1 affect that resultant sound that comes through the Move and subsequently, out through my headphones? The buffers and L/R opamps only affect the sound that goes through the D1's amp, right?

 Thanks everyone...


----------



## musicmaker

Try the LT6241HV and LT6234 in the dac. The LT6241 sounds a bit better to me than the LT6234 but its a hard call. A lot of folks also like the AD8656. 

 So many choices, so much fun !

 Also using the D1 as dac only with an external amp is something you should try. You already have the move so why not ? The D1's strength is its dac. I connect the IRiver's optical to the D1, line out to Larocco PRII mkII. Sounds fantastic. The D1's amp is not bad at all, just that there are much better portable amps out there. 

 Let us know what you think of the move connected to the D1 vs D1s amp. What headphones are you using btw ?


----------



## kiwirugby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try the LT6241HV and LT6234 in the dac. The LT6241 sounds a bit better to me than the LT6234 but its a hard call. A lot of folks also like the AD8656. 

 So many choices, so much fun !

 Also using the D1 as dac only with an external amp is something you should try. You already have the move so why not ? The D1's strength is its dac. I connect the IRiver's optical to the D1, line out to Larocco PRII mkII. Sounds fantastic. The D1's amp is not bad at all, just that there are much better portable amps out there. 

 Let us know what you think of the move connected to the D1 vs D1s amp. What headphones are you using btw ?_

 

I have the LT6234 in the DAC and I like it a lot. I would encourage you also to use the D1 DAC with an amp. I do with an iBasso P2 (with a Sony D-EJ2000 pcdp as a source and a sysconcept toslink mini-mini to the D1), and I think the sound is improved, expecially transparency.

 Of course, if you are using primarily an computer and USB, you may want to check out the soon-to-be-released D2!


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Try the LT6241HV and LT6234 in the dac. The LT6241 sounds a bit better to me than the LT6234 but its a hard call. A lot of folks also like the AD8656. 

 So many choices, so much fun !

 Also using the D1 as dac only with an external amp is something you should try. You already have the move so why not ? The D1's strength is its dac. I connect the IRiver's optical to the D1, line out to Larocco PRII mkII. Sounds fantastic. The D1's amp is not bad at all, just that there are much better portable amps out there. 

 Let us know what you think of the move connected to the D1 vs D1s amp. What headphones are you using btw ?_

 


 I've got Sennheiser HD650s. So, I am correct in thinking that I can stop worrying so much about which buffer opamps and the L/R opamps I use in the D1 if I am using the DAC only to connect it to the Move? They don't affect that sound quality?


----------



## WatCult

Do try AD743 with LM6655 as Buffer with LTC6241 on DAC. Had a brief listen during a mini meet with some fellow ibasso owners. Think this combination might be good for classical music.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

If the new ones come with 6234 in DAC, LT1364 in L/R and LMH6643 in buffers, there isn't a huge reason to change anything.

 Mine had AD8616 in DAC stock, and the AD8656 was much better, while the LT6234 was an additional upgrade above that.

 Mine had AD823 stock, and I tried the OPA2111 withAD8397 in the buffers and it was a noticeable upgrade, but then I tried the AD797 in L/R with those AD8397 in buffers, and the sound is tremendous.

 You should take out the LMH6643 from buffers and try the AD8397 with the AD797 - you get great smooth detailed highs, warm forward mids, and tight quick strong bass. With the opamps I have in it now it sounds very much like my P2 did, and everyone agrees the P2 is a great sounding amp.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

BTW, some people still love the OPA2111 in LR with the LME49720 in buffers. The LT6234 vs LTC6241HV in the DAC seems to be a coin toss to some people, both sounding equally as good.


----------



## musicmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW, some people still love the OPA2111 in LR with the LME49720 in buffers. The LT6234 vs LTC6241HV in the DAC seems to be a coin toss to some people, both sounding equally as good._

 

Couldn't agree more. I have gone back-and-forth between the LT6234 and LTC6241HV in the dac. Sonic memory is short lived and I can't really pick one over the other. The differences I found are subtle. The LT6241 is warmer without sacrificing detail. Nice bass and a very sweet midrange. The LT6234 has a more neutral flavor to it. Great top end. Again, its a really really hard call. I like them both.

 For the amp section, I gotta try AD8397 in the buffers with the AD797s. I've only tried the AD797s with buffers bypassed and some other buffer combinations. Haven't been rolling LR/buffer opamps in the D1 since I got my Larocco PRII mkII


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW, some people still love the OPA2111 in LR with the LME49720 in buffers. The LT6234 vs LTC6241HV in the DAC seems to be a coin toss to some people, both sounding equally as good._

 

I've got the updated opamp version of the D1. It has the LTC6241 in the DAC. Is that the same opamp as the LTC6241HV that everyone's referring to or does the "HV" at the end make a difference? 

 I'm too lazy to open my D1 up right now to check the DAC chip, but was just wondering if LTC6241 (as iBasso calls it on their website) is really the LTC6241HV.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've got the updated opamp version of the D1. It has the LTC6241 in the DAC. Is that the same opamp as the LTC6241HV that everyone's referring to or does the "HV" at the end make a difference? 

 I'm too lazy to open my D1 up right now to check the DAC chip, but was just wondering if LTC6241 (as iBasso calls it on their website) is really the LTC6241HV._

 

Haymaker...

 The opamp is the same, except that the HV model will allow a higher supply voltage. This is not necessary in the DAC socket, but as the LR and buffer sockets run at a voltage above 6 volts, the HV would be necessary. The LTC6241 sounds very good in the LR socket, but do NOT use it unless it is the HV version.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WatCult* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do try AD743 with LM6655 as Buffer with LTC6241 on DAC. Had a brief listen during a mini meet with some fellow ibasso owners. Think this combination might be good for classical music._

 

i regretted i didn't directly compare the ad743 with lm6655 and 797 with bypass.... 

 what do you think? will 797 be a safer bet? i'm getting either 1 of them.. but not both...


----------



## PPkiller

i just tried ths4032 with bypass... wow.. 

 if used with lmh6655 in buffer, the soundstage will collapse.. making the sound congested...

 without lmh6655.. ths4032 sound really good.. clarity.. separation... just that it sounds alot more closer...


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i just tried ths4032 with bypass... wow.. 

 if used with lmh6655 in buffer, the soundstage will collapse.. making the sound congested...

 without lmh6655.. ths4032 sound really good.. clarity.. separation... just that it sounds alot more closer..._

 

I can't wait to get my smaller soldering tips in...I have the ths4032 but haven't had the time to attach it to the adapter yet.

 So no buffers is the way to go, huh? How does the sound compare to AD797 without buffers? Anyone compared the two?

 -dan


----------



## PPkiller

i pop opa627 in (this time with buffer bypass). it does sound better without buffer... 

 strangly the last time i tried opa627 with buffer bypass it sounded awful... the only difference is the dac opamp i used(ad8656 and the current 6241).. 


 overall opa627 has the darker sound.. while ths4032 has more energy in the mid to upper frequency.. 


 i do not have any ad797 to try... most prob head-fiers who has both 797 and ths4032 will comment on how both sound..


----------



## PPkiller

lm4562/lm49720 works in l/r with buffer bypass....

 sounds good.. i'm leaving it in for some burnin..


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_BTW, some people still love the OPA2111 in LR with the LME49720 in buffers. The LT6234 vs LTC6241HV in the DAC seems to be a coin toss to some people, both sounding equally as good._

 

x2. I also love using the AD797's with the buffers bypassed with some some badly made buffers (first time working with any small parts). Unfortunately I have sold the D1 in anticipation for the D2. I really liked using the AD744 or AD743 in the buffer or DAC also.


----------



## brainsalad

This thread is VERY FRIKIN confusing. 

 I have a D1 that's about 2 weeks old.

 1) What OPAmps will give me a better bass extension?

 2) Where do I get the OPAmps?

 Please, SOMEONE GIVE ME SOME LOVE ON THIS!


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 
 1) What OPAmps will give me a better bass extension?_

 

you looking for a dark sounding opamp? what HP are you useing?


----------



## brainsalad

I am using the HD650's. I have a Headroom Desktop with the Dac and I really like the sound. When I hook into the D1, the bass is thin and the headphones seem a little brighter. I don't want bass boost. The Head Room seems like the bass has better extension and is a slightly warmer sound.


----------



## WatCult

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i regretted i didn't directly compare the ad743 with lm6655 and 797 with bypass.... 

 what do you think? will 797 be a safer bet? i'm getting either 1 of them.. but not both..._

 

Get the AD743 if you want something more laidback. I think it will be abit different from your OPA627.


----------



## PPkiller

what's HR?

 opa627 maybe what you are looking for.. as for the buffer.. you can experiment with lmh6655,ad8066,ad9397..


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WatCult* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Get the AD743 if you want something more laidback. I think it will be abit different from your OPA627._

 

hmm... think i tend to like opamp that is more engaging with the listener... i will be getting 797.. thanks..


----------



## brainsalad

I'm sorry, I had a brain fart and fat fingered the sentence. HR=Headroom (I edited the comment)


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This thread is VERY FRIKIN confusing. 

 I have a D1 that's about 2 weeks old.

 1) What OPAmps will give me a better bass extension?

 2) Where do I get the OPAmps?

 Please, SOME GIVE ME SOME LOVE ON THIS!_

 

1. So far in my limited testing, the AD797 opamp has great bass. I think it's a little too dark/heavy for my classical music, but they sound great on the rock/pop that I have. THS4032 also sounds very good to me. Maybe a little less bass, but more even throughout. Good energy and highs...maybe a little closer soundstage than AD797, but again, I've only put in a few hours on the THS4032 opamp.

 2. I usually get my opamps from www.newark.com...however, with the AD797 in particular, it's a little trickier. It is a single channel opamp, so you need to buy two of them--one for each channel (right and left). Plus, it's DIP (at least the AD797 that I got) and you need a single-to-dual Browndog adapter to get it to fit on the iBasso. Hiflight (a tremendously helpful Head-Fi member) helped me along and even put this adapter together for me. All I had to do was buy the two AD797s (DIP configuration) and paid Hiflight a few bucks to send me the adapter. He can do a much better job of explaining this to you than I can.

 You may want to bypass the buffers, which involves jumpering pins 1+3, 5+7. Again, Hiflight is of great help and for a few bucks can make you an adapter that will bypass the buffers. Many people have found that the AD797, THS4032 and probably many other L/R opamps sound pretty great with the buffers bypassed.

 Hopefully someone else can chime in with other help.


----------



## brainsalad

Thanks Haymaker18. This is exactly what I am looking for.


----------



## haymaker18

I really like the THS4032 in L/R with buffers bypassed. It sounds great. Good solid bass but not as thick and overpowering as the AD797 with buffers bypassed. My main problem with the bypassed AD797s are that I can't hear the highs clearly enough. The THS4032 has very clear highs and a sense of realism to the winds and strings in my classical recordings. It sounds pretty neutral to me in its balance. There's also an effortlessness to the sound that I appreciate. I haven't come to a conclusion on the soundstage. It might be a bit close and I imagine there's other opamps where it has more separation, but I really enjoy the balance of the bypassed THS4032. I may try a few more options, but I think I've have found "the one" for my musical tastes. 

 I do still want to try the AD8397 as buffers for the AD797. Also, I want to try the AD743 with LMH6655 as buffers. But past those, I think I'll try to kick this rolling habit.


----------



## PPkiller

i will suggest you add another opamp to your list.. lme49720.. but note that this opamp takes quite some burn-in time to let it shine... i will recommend 100~200 hrs for it.. intially it will sound muddy and 'un-interesting'... it has that magical sound to it when it's fully burn in..

 note:lme49720/lm4562 can only work with buffer bypass


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i will suggest you add another opamp to your list.. lme49720.. but note that this opamp takes quite some burn-in time to let it shine... i will recommend 100~200 hrs for it.. intially it will sound muddy and 'un-interesting'... it has that magical sound to it when it's fully burn in..

 note:lme49720/lm4562 can only work with buffer bypass_

 

Never mind...if I had actually READ your post...

 Post Deleted...


----------



## HiFlight

After all the months spent rolling opamps and various cap mods to my D1, I finally went back to an opamp I had used very successfully with my Xin amps..the AD743.

 This was my favorite opamp when most of the amps were designed for single-channel opamps. I had almost forgotten about it.

 The AD743 is not well-known in audio circles, as it is primarily designed for sonar applications. Nontheless, it is smooth, accurate, and has great low-end depth and impact; it also renders all types of music with a very lifelike and realistic soundstage.

 I am using the 743 with the LMH6655 buffers. I feel they are a bit more accurate than is the LMH6643.

 My top 3 opamp choices for the D1 are: AD743 (single), AD797 (single), THS4032 (dual)

 The 797 has more bass, the 4032 has more detail and transient response, but the 743 is just overall "right" to me.


----------



## WatCult

During the minimeet of iBasso owner in SG, I was also similarly impressed with the AD743 with the LMH6655. It does project a very lifelike sound. The sound is further away from the stage... not as upfront as the AD797 and OPA627. This is something i really like about the AD743. Were testing this track - playing pipe organ in a church environment setting. Excellent reproduction of the pipe organ sound and has that reverb effect that can be feel when you hear the sound in an enclosed environment.


----------



## PPkiller

i just received my ad743... i love it with lm6655..


----------



## brainsalad

PPkiller - or anybody - 

 When I go to Newark and search on ad743 I get 6 different selections. How do I know which one is the right one? 

 Same thing with the LMH6655. 

 What are the differences?


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PPkiller - or anybody - 

 When I go to Newark and search on ad743 I get 6 different selections. How do I know which one is the right one? 

 Same thing with the LMH6655. 

 What are the differences?_

 

When I checked on Newark, they were all 16-pin versions. I wanted the 8 pin DIP version (I think it's laid out exactly like the AD797...a single channel opamp--so you need two for L/R--but someone correct me if I'm wrong). I got them from a user on head-fi but he doesn't have any more for sale. You could always go to Analog Devices website for more information: Analog Devices AD743 - Ultralow Noise BiFET Op Amp

 I think, as a last resort, you could even buy them direct from the manufacturer.


----------



## brainsalad

Haymaker, I followed your link to Analog Devices, they show a JN and JNZ. What does the "Z" delineation indicate?

 I found both versions on Quest.com, but it's interesting when you order it, the Z version brings up different manufacturers but the non Z version is from Analog Devices. 

 I have found this type of delineation differences, not necessarily the Z, on virtually every OP amp I have looked up.

 As you can tell, a newbie but eager to learn.


----------



## haymaker18

I think I would go with the JN instead of the JNZ but I really don't know the difference. For the AD797s, there are both AN and ANZ versions of the DIP setup...I got the AN and it works great. I think it's more common and readily available.

 I'm sure someone else will know more about the specific differences, but you'll be fine with the JN.


----------



## haymaker18

Also, with the AD743 or the AD797, don't forget you'll need a single to dual browndog adapter. Hiflight can steer you towards the right adapter, as it can be confusing on their website (at least for me). Since both are single channel opamps, you have to use two of them (one for each of the L/R channels) and put them onto the adapter to fit into the 8-pin socket on your iBasso.

 Hiflight sent me an already soldered single-to-dual browndog adapter and a set of bypassed buffers for my opamp rolling--very helpful since I had no clue what I was doing. It was only a few bucks and infinitely helpful. Now, I'm starting to get the hang of it on my own! 

 Also, another thing I didn't know: if you are rolling the buffers and soldering your own, when you get a browndog soic-to-dip adapter, it won't quite fit in the tight confines of the space around the buffer. You can grind off some of the edge of the adapter, but to be comfortable, you should get a DIP socket from Radioshack. They are like $.59 for a two-pack. They're just an 8-pin black socket that you slide the adapter into--like an extension. They should help you clear the battery and any other things that get in the way.

 Also, for my soldering, I found .022 diameter Silver solder (62/36/2%) that I like very much for the soldering. A #6 soldering tip worked well in the narrow confines of the opamp soldering. Also, I found a big container of flux there at Radioshack for cleaning the board before soldering


----------



## brainsalad

What??? I have to get a soldering iron?? I was going to use my propane torch I use to solder copper tubing and a solder bar.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I just ordered the Weller WM120 Weller Soldering Irons,

 I will get some of the .022 solder and flux. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## jamato8

Just remember to solder hot and fast. You do not want to leave the tip in place but a few seconds so a hot tip will get the job done fast and heat up the rest of the component less, which is what you want. I use a 25 watt with a very fine tip and for wire connections I use a larger tip. The 25 watt will work on smd's and on larger surfaces. It is all in the light touch. I also use a magnifying lens to check solder points as it is easy to have a touch of solder link to another trace or pin with these small smd's. 

 Great fun once you get going.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just remember to solder hot and fast. You do not want to leave the tip in place but a few seconds so a hot tip will get the job done fast and heat up the rest of the component less, which is what you want. I use a 25 watt with a very fine tip and for wire connections I use a larger tip. The 25 watt will work on smd's and on larger surfaces. It is all in the light touch. I also use a magnifying lens to check solder points as it is easy to have a touch of solder link to another trace or pin with these small smd's. 

 Great fun once you get going._

 

Yes, it's certainly easy to make a mistake! I haven't done this much...is it possible to have one faulty solder out of the 8 and still get sound out through it? Is there any way to KNOW you did it totally correctly? I'm hoping it's the kind of thing that it either works or it doesn't. My solders look good so far, but I like to panic about these things...


----------



## jamato8

Just have fun. I use a magnifying glass to look at each leg to make sure that the solder has melted correctly. If there is no connection then that is called a cold solder. In a few cases a chip would still work "if" that pin was not actually used as in some single opamps but normally the chip would not work. Just check the solder joint closely and make sure you have pin one of the opamp where it should be on the adapter board. Pin one will have a small mark like a detent in the plastic, or the corner of the opamp where pin one is will be slightly squared. You can always go to the manufactures spec sheet and see how they mark pin one but most of the time, with a magnifier in some cases, you can see where 1 is and match it up. Everyone will get the hang of it with some experimentation. Just make sure that you don't jump the traces with solder or you could short something an there goes your amp. Just take your time, look at what was done and enjoy. 

 I also will use a meter to check continuity at times.


----------



## wolfen68

I've been trying to keep up with this group's efforts with the D1, but this thread has gotten quite daunting (even with the helpful first page updates)

 If I buy a D1 today, am I understanding correctly that it would be a new/improved version with updated opamps/buffers? The website isn't real clear on this.

 If so, how does the 'new' D1 do as compared to other portable amps...or maybe most important to me, how does the D1's DAC do as compared to other small DAC's (such as the MicroDAC)?


----------



## jamato8

Well with HiFlight's last post he infers that the D1 amps sound very good. I will add that the dac section does a fine job. It isn't be best but in its price range, and I think in a range of hundreds more, it does very well. For all of the abilities of the D1, I still think it is a great buy and will be for some time. The current D1 has a very good charging chip, has the new opamps that sound better and appears to have few problems and produces good music. 

 HiFlight has a good dac to compare for further comments.


----------



## musicmaker

I agree. Overall I think the D1 represents incredible value for money. The D1's DAC is its strong suit. The amp is decent IMO but the dac is great especially given the price. The battery life is very good considering everything the D1 does. So you get a great product, for a great price backed by a company that takes customer service very seriously.

 I've also purchased a HR microdac as I've been wanting to compare for while. Should be arriving shortly.

 I know HiFlight has the HR ultradac, had done way more D1 opamp rolling that I have and can comment on how the D1 stacks up.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well with HiFlight's last post he infers that the D1 amps sound very good. I will add that the dac section does a fine job. It isn't be best but in its price range, and I think in a range of hundreds more, it does very well. For all of the abilities of the D1, I still think it is a great buy and will be for some time. The current D1 has a very good charging chip, has the new opamps that sound better and appears to have few problems and produces good music. 

 HiFlight has a good dac to compare for further comments._


----------



## souperman

Now I can't wait for the D2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## jamato8

It should be good. Everything learned from the D1 and the ongoing R&D that never stops. The small size should make for a nice package.


----------



## kiwirugby

If my memory serves me well, and John, Ron and others correct me if I am wrong, the D2 will only have a USB optical in, where as the D1 has USB and toslink in. Nothing wrong with that. It all depends on your sources.

 Ron (HiFlight) helped me with the following opamp rolling.

 L&R: AD746
 Buffer: LME49720
 DAC: LT6234

 I am sure Ron has experimented more since he did this before the holidays.

 I am now using the following: Sony D-EJ2000-->Sysconcept toslink-->D1-->P2-->AKG501 or ESW9 for classical and some jazz.

 Sounds fantastic to me!


----------



## jamato8

Yes, the D2 will have USB only. The D1 with all of its multiple options is the only unit on the market like this that is portable and packable.


----------



## HiFlight

I still think that the D1 with AD743 on 2>1 adapter and LME6655 makes the D1 amp equal to its DAC. There are a number of other opamps that also sound very good. The updated opamps that come standard are much better than the original offerings of the D1. 

 Keep in mind that the recommendations that are put forth on the forum are personal preferences only. It doesn't mean that there is one "best" combination that will fit everyones individual tastes. 

 We sometimes overlook that point as we attempt to describe the sound of various opamp combinations. There are, perhaps, at least a half dozen that are *very* difficult, if not impossible to tell apart in blind listening tests.


----------



## haymaker18

Just got a bunch more opamps in: AD743, LMH6655, LME49720, AD8397 (for buffers with AD797), LT6234 and LTC6241HV for DAC

 Per recommendations, am listening to AD743 with LMH6655 as buffers. GREAT for classical music. increased soundstage, that nice airiness to the sound the creates a life-like feeling...it's like it's reproducing the air that would surround you at a symphony concert (sounds ridiculous, but that's what I'm hearing).

 The instruments now have a more proper distance from my ears and I must say it feels much less like I'm listening with headphones. Only things left to try are AD797 with AD8397 as buffers and LME49720 bypassed. Something tells me I will miss the AD743 while I'm trying the others!

 Not sure how much I'll be able to tell when I switch the DAC. Will I hear a difference between LTC6241 and LTC6241HV? I know it matters in the L/R channel, but is there ANY sound difference as DAC?


----------



## haymaker18

To take a page from Hiflight, the AD743 and LMH6655 just "sounds right"

 Unlike some of the others, I can't really describe a particular strength of it because it doesn't sound colored or unbalanced to me...just natural and right.


----------



## PPkiller

LTC6241 and LTC6241HV <-- i do not think it will sound different. else they will have given it a different number.. 

 for ad743.. either jn or jnz will do.. if i'm not wrong Z refers to lead-free version.. 

 LMH6655MA <-- for 6655..


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LTC6241 and LTC6241HV <-- i do not think it will sound different. else they will have given it a different number.. 

 for ad743.. either jn or jnz will do.. if i'm not wrong Z refers to lead-free version.. 

 LMH6655MA <-- for 6655.._

 

Think I got the LMH6655MAX. Not sure how it's different from LMH6655MA...the website doesn't show any technical differences. Sure sounds nice, though!


----------



## PPkiller

it should be the same.. except that it is held in a plastic tray that is used in a reel to feed the machines..


----------



## WatCult

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i just received my ad743... i love it with lm6655.. _

 

Hi PPkiller, i thought you are getting the AD797 instead of the AD743. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 How's your impression for between the OPA627 vs AD743?


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *WatCult* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi PPkiller, i thought you are getting the AD797 instead of the AD743. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 How's your impression for between the OPA627 vs AD743?_

 


 i manage to do a last min change before they proccess the order... 

 i didn't directly compare the opa627 with ad743.. i did a incremental comparison from opa627 vs lme49720 and lme49720 vs ad743...

 from opa627 vs lme49720, i can notice that opa627 does not sound that natural.. in fact you can describe it as a very colored opamp (maybe that's how it excel above the rest).. 

 i didn't fully burn-in the lme49720 when i compare it with ad743... ad743 has the depth as HiFlight has mention it.. and on top of that it has more energy in the mids and highs. i believe when lme49720 has fully burned in, it will be similar to ad743 just that it will be a smoother and more tame version of it.


----------



## haymaker18

Hi all,

 Got my Meier Move today and am currently running my Iriver Ihp-120 through optical out to my D1...then out to the Move...then to my Senn 650s.

 MARVELOUS sounds are coming into my ears. There is just no comparison between the D1 and the Move when it comes to their amps...even with all of my fiddling with opamps, there is an ease of sound with the Move that my D1 can't recreate. 

 But as fun as it is to praise the Move's amp, the important part of my testing is 'Optical to D1 to Move' vs. 'Analog out of Iriver to Move.' Really, I can't tell a huge difference, but it sounds slightly cleaner when going through the D1 and I think it also has a little more energy to the sound (highs and low at least). Certainly no expert at this, but (not surprisingly) I like the sound of the optical out on the Iriver better than the analog line out. 

 The D1 DAC is very good in my opinion. This is with stock 6241s in the DAC. I may roll to the 6234s if I get some free time. I also have the 6241HVs, but I assume they'll sound the same in the DAC as the regular 6241s (someone correct me if I'm wrong)


----------



## musicmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_even with all of my fiddling with opamps, there is an ease of sound with the Move that my D1 can't recreate. _

 

I can relate to this. The D1's amp is not its strong suit IMO. Its decent but not great even will upgraded opamps. The DAC is a different story. It is just excellent ! I paired my D1 with my Larocco PRII and the sound was just terrific. So I can relate to what you're saying about the amp.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The D1 DAC is very good in my opinion. This is with stock 6241s in the DAC. I may roll to the 6234s if I get some free time. I also have the 6241HVs, but Iassume they'll sound the same in the DAC as the regular 6241s (someone correct me if I'm wrong)_

 

I remember reading that the move's sound is on the warm side, so I suggest you try the LT6234 in the D1's dac. The LT6241 was warmer compared to the LT6234 in my tests. So using the LT6234 in the D1 paired with the move should be a good combination.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I remember reading that the move's sound is on the warm side, so I suggest you try the LT6234 in the D1's dac. The LT6241 was warmer compared to the LT6234 in my tests. So using the LT6234 in the D1 paired with the move should be a good combination._

 

So you're saying that you don't want BOTH a warm DAC and a warm AMP? It's better to pair up DAC and AMP with different strengths?


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *musicmaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I remember reading that the move's sound is on the warm side, so I suggest you try the LT6234 in the D1's dac. The LT6241 was warmer compared to the LT6234 in my tests. So using the LT6234 in the D1 paired with the move should be a good combination._

 

You know, the more I think about the 6241 being warm...it makes sense. Right now, with the 6241s feeding the move, my Sennheiser 650s sound a LOT like Grado headphones when the crossfeed is off on the move. 

 They are frighteningly warm and bright...I really thought I had the Grado 125s back on my head. My ears are bleeding from the brightness! HAHA

 Time to pop the 6234 in and give it a listen.


----------



## haymaker18

I have the 6234 as DAC connecting up to the Move. Definitely more neutral and my ears aren't wearing out as quickly as with the 6241. The highs are gorgeous with 6234. It's not quite as engaging or energetic, perhaps as 6241, but I will continue trying it out. 

 Musicmaker, you're right (as usual) that it's a great fit with the Move.

 Since I had the D1 opened up, I threw in the LME49720 and bypassed buffers...I'm gonna leave it burning if over night. Want to see if this competes with AD743 and LMH6655 sound.

 Anyone else tried AD797 with AD8397...I know HeadphoneAddict had. I have them both, so maybe that'll be my next experiment. I wanna give the LME49720 a shot first, though.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know, the more I think about the 6241 being warm...it makes sense. Right now, with the 6241s feeding the move, my Sennheiser 650s sound a LOT like Grado headphones when the crossfeed is off on the move. 

 They are frighteningly warm and bright...I really thought I had the Grado 125s back on my head. My ears are bleeding from the brightness! HAHA

 Time to pop the 6234 in and give it a listen._

 

"frighteningly warm and bright" ?? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You may not like the 6234 in the DAC if your 650's are too bright like Grados. You might try an LMH6643 in the DAC instead, with the 6241HV in the main amp. and then maybe a pair of LMH6643 or 6655 in the buffers too. That has been reported to be a good warm tubey setup.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the 6234 as DAC connecting up to the Move. Definitely more neutral and my ears aren't wearing out as quickly as with the 6241. The highs are gorgeous with 6234. It's not quite as engaging or energetic, perhaps as 6241, but I will continue trying it out. 

 Musicmaker, you're right (as usual) that it's a great fit with the Move.

 Since I had the D1 opened up, I threw in the LME49720 and bypassed buffers...I'm gonna leave it burning if over night. Want to see if this competes with AD743 and LMH6655 sound.

 Anyone else tried AD797 with AD8397...I know HeadphoneAddict had. I have them both, so maybe that'll be my next experiment. I wanna give the LME49720 a shot first, though._

 

I still have the AD797 with AD8397 buffers, and 6234 in the DAC, since 11/5/07 without needing to change anything.

 I'm glad you like the 6234 in the DAC. I had the AD8656 in there before that, and the 6234 was a slight but clear upgrade. Everything seems to be better in the DAC than the 8616 that mine came with.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_"frighteningly warm and bright" ?? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




_

 

That was probably an exaggeration...but the sound from the 6241s to the move and my 650s just sounded a lot like the sound from an unamped Grado 125--when I first listened to them, it was eye-opening...then after 20 minutes I had a headache and my ears hurt.

 I liked the detail, but I was forced to turn the crossfeed on to rest my ears and even that didn't help that much. Not used to my 650s being so bright is all...'twas a shocker! But again, they were bright because of the combination of the slightly warm Move amp and the (apparently) warm 6241 DAC in the D1. The 6241 sounds great by itself in the D1 DAC, don't get me wrong!


----------



## captainbrendo

I've looked through this thread, but I haven't seen anyone compare the new D1s LR opamps (1364) with the 797 or the 743. I'd like some more bass and weight in my sound on my 880s. 

 I'm thinking of just upgrading the LR opamp since the stock opamps in the new unit are 'supposed' to be pretty good. 

 So my question is how does the sound change when just switching the LR opamps with the above mentioned opamps (or any others).


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *captainbrendo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've looked through this thread, but I haven't seen anyone compare the new D1s LR opamps (1364) with the 797 or the 743. I'd like some more bass and weight in my sound on my 880s. 

 I'm thinking of just upgrading the LR opamp since the stock opamps in the new unit are 'supposed' to be pretty good. 

 So my question is how does the sound change when just switching the LR opamps with the above mentioned opamps (or any others)._

 

I would call the 1364 'polite.' It sounds good, but isn't particularly aggressive or energetic. It has solid mids and highs, but not a ton of bass energy.

 AD797 has tremendous bass. I find them lacking in the highs (at least when bypassed in the buffers). If you leave the stock buffers in, the 797 sound is a little more balanced (a little better highs and not quite so much bass) but it's still not quite right in my opinion. I did put the AD8397 buffers in with the AD797 and I liked the sound quite a bit. I probably would have left my setup like that except that with all the classical music I listen to, I wanted more soundstage. AD797 is a very nice choice for rock/pop I think.

 AD743...didn't try it with the stock buffers. I have the LMH6655 with it. It has more distance/separation in the soundstage (which makes it easy to listen to for long periods of time). An airy energy that feels very realistic. Bass never seems overpowering--sometimes you don't notice it but then it comes out of nowhere and is awesome. I just find the sound quite realistic. I'm also understanding words and hearing very subtle instruments in songs that I never heard with the other opamp configurations. The separation and clarity is great! Go ahead and try it with the stock buffers, but it may not be anything special without the LMH6655.


----------



## haymaker18

With the 6234 in the DAC, I don't like AD743 and LMH6655 quite as much as when I had 6241 as DAC. 

 6234 isn't warm...it's very neutral
 6241 is definitely a bit warm and it made AD743 and LMH6655 magical. 

 With 6234, it's not quite as magical. I think it's still great, but a bit on the uninteresting/cold side. I'm going to stick with AD743 and LMH6655 no matter what because I love the instrument separation and the detail in the sound.

 The jury is still out on 6234 vs 6241 for me. 6234 is a little more listenable when used to feed my MOVE amp, but 6241 is my favorite when I'm just using the D1 for listening with AD743 as L/R and LMH6655 as buffers.

 I would have tried the LME49720 as L/R, but when I did, it was either a bad opamp or my soldering wasn't great. I got intermittent crackle through the phones and decided that couldn't be good! I didn't want to ruin anything, so I gave up on it quickly. Anyone know what could cause a fairly constant crackly (while still getting some sound out of it)?


----------



## brainsalad

Seeing if you guys can help out a VERY newbie to this op amp rolling.

 I have purchased some OPamps from Hiflight and Musicmaker and here is my inventory and what I understand they are used for:

 LT6241 (stock),LT6234, AD8656 - Dac
 LM6643 (stock), LM4562, bypass boards - buffers
 LT1364 (stock), 5534, 4032, AD797 - L/R.

 From Ron, he recommends the AD797's with either the buffers bypassed or using the LM6643 buffers (stock)


 Ron and others really like the AD743/LM6655 combo, both of which I would need to buy. 

 Based on comments I am leaning toward the AD797's to try first. I prefer a warmer sound. The stock D1 is too dry in the bass and causes me listening fatigue, even with my HD650's. I had the K701's and returned them, they were to bright for me regardless of the DAC/Amp combo. I use the Headroom Desktop DAC/AMP unit and like the warm sound of the Headroom products.

 What other combinations are recommended with this inventory or is there other OP Amps I need to buy?

 Thanks!


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Seeing if you guys can help out a VERY newbie to this op amp rolling.

 I have purchased some OPamps from Hiflight and Musicmaker and here is my inventory and what I understand they are used for:

 LT6241 (stock),LT6234, AD8656 - Dac
 LM6643 (stock), LM4562, bypass boards - buffers
 LT1364 (stock), 5534, 4032, AD797 - L/R.

 From Ron, he recommends the AD797's with either the buffers bypassed or using the LM6643 buffers (stock)


 Ron and others really like the AD743/LM6655 combo, both of which I would need to buy. 

 Based on comments I am leaning toward the AD797's to try first. I prefer a warmer sound. The stock D1 is too dry in the bass and causes me listening fatigue, even with my HD650's. I had the K701's and returned them, they were to bright for me regardless of the DAC/Amp combo. I use the Headroom Desktop DAC/AMP unit and like the warm sound of the Headroom products.

 What other combinations are recommended with this inventory or is there other OP Amps I need to buy?

 Thanks!_

 

If you like warm and dark, I think AD797 will be a strong choice. I recommend bypassed or AD8397 with them (per headphoneaddict's recommendation). I think you will want to keep 6241 as your DAC as I can confirm it is a warm sounding DAC opamp. I would say, wait until you find the AD797 lacking in some department before moving to something else. The only thing I didn't like about AD797 was I felt it lacked in clear highs and high extension. But it was warm and gorgeously thick on the bottom and mids. Lots of energy, too.

 I think I ran THS4032 with LMH6643 and enjoyed the sound quite a bit. Though, i remember it being good on clarity, but not particularly great on bass or warmth. 

 AD743 and LMH6655 is still my favorite, basically because it doesn't sound anything like the other combinations I tried. It's airy, energetic, and abundantly natural sounding. Not thick or forced...the other combinations often sound like they just amplify certain frequency bands (i.e. what some people say about Grado headphones being overly bright because they push mids/highs a little harder than other frequencies). I feel the AD797 pushes the bottom and low-mids hard (which sounds really exciting). The 743/6655 doesn't sound like that. It sounds like it gives you whatever is there on the recording--the entire recorded sound from the breathing to the finger lifting off of the guitar string. At least that's what I hear (again, 6241 is great with 743/6655 because the warmth really adds to the sound).


----------



## brainsalad

My initial impression of my first D1 op amp rolling.

 I put in the bypass adapters for the buffers and installed the AD797's. I am listening to it now and I really like it. Definitely warmer than the factory (lm6643 & lt1364). After 2 hours, virtually no listening fatigue. I can't say if it's more natural, more relaxed, better highs, worse highs, etc.. but I can state two facts.

 1) Warmer, more like the Headroom products
 2) Highs are blended well enough that I am not getting listening fatigue.

 I have lived with my ESL's now for 15+ years and I am very, very used to the sound and when I listen to speakers that don't sonically have the same/similar signature, I get fatigued. I know that my ESL's are +- 2db 20hz - 18k in my listening room (measured on a 24 step/octave RTA) so I think they are a good point of reference.

 I do want to try the AD743/LMH6655 combo.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My initial impression of my first D1 op amp rolling.

 I put in the bypass adapters for the buffers and installed the AD797's. I am listening to it now and I really like it. Definitely warmer than the factory (lm6643 & lt1364). After 2 hours, virtually no listening fatigue. I can't say if it's more natural, more relaxed, better highs, worse highs, etc.. but I can state two facts.

 1) Warmer, more like the Headroom products
 2) Highs are blended well enough that I am not getting listening fatigue.

 I have lived with my ESL's now for 15+ years and I am very, very used to the sound and when I listen to speakers that don't sonically have the same/similar signature, I get fatigued. I know that my ESL's are +- 2db 20hz - 18k in my listening room (measured on a 24 step/octave RTA) so I think they are a good point of reference.

 I do want to try the AD743/LMH6655 combo._

 

Glad to hear you like the sound! For most listening purposes (and your warm-ish sound preference) I think those AD797s are great! The AD743 would be easy to try b/c you won't have to solder the AD743. You can just pull out the AD797s from the single-to-dual browndog and replace with AD743 . Only have to solder the LMH6655s...


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

In my high-end Grado headphone review, I broke out a few amps after I was done, to see which had the best synergy with Grado. My results were surprising. REVIEW: Grado HF-1 and RS-2 both re-cabled with APureSound v3 cable, with stock HP-2 sprinkled in for good measure...

 While I initially did the Grado review with my Predator (because that's the amp I have been burning-in and focusing on lately), the D1 with my usual set of opamps beats several other amps for synergy, falling behind only the DarkVoice 336i for energy and punch and control and Zing!

 The Predator and HeadFive have been excellent with all my other headphones, but don't seem to supply enough current to make The Grados as happy as the D1 or 336i.


----------



## brainsalad

Where are some places I can buy the AD743? Newark doesn't have any.


----------



## brainsalad

I have been playing with my new toys and indeed this is a kick. I was reading, trying to make sense of some of the spec sheets on my opamps and I came to the AD8656. AD recommends this amp for pre-amps, mixing consoles, etc.. and so I thought, what the heck, and plugged it into the L/R. I turned it on and WOW - I really like the sound of it. The AD797 seemed to smeeer the extreme highs to me. When I tried the AD8656, the smeeer was gone. Good bass extension to with some of that slam affect that I get out of my headroom desktop but was missing from the stock LT1364's.

 I started searching this thread for references to the AD8656 and came across hiflights warning that the voltage limits would cause the AD8656's to pop. So far, I have not had that problem but I am running on the internal battery.

 The AD8656 has a voltage limit of 5v with a drop dead of 6v. Does the voltage of the D1 exceed this? the LT1464's are up to 15v. Can I damage the D1 or do I just have to worry about the AD8656 itself?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I think you only have to worry about the opamp itself, not the D1, when trying the AD8656 in LR.


----------



## PPkiller

the voltage for L/R is 10 v on power supply. it will fray your ad8656 when you plug ur power supply in.


----------



## brainsalad

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the voltage for L/R is 10 v on power supply. it will fray your ad8656 when you plug ur power supply in._

 

Cr%$ . Works great on battery. If I plug in the power, I get hiss, pops, buzz, and no audio. F%$^. I really liked the sound.


----------



## Pete7

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Allure* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why has no one tried the AD8620 and the AD8599 both in LR and buffer? They're pretty suitable I think._

 

I don't know, Andrea. Why don't you give them a shot?


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pete7* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know, Andrea. Why don't you give them a shot?_

 

What's funny about this whole opamp rolling game is that there's no point at which the testing will ever end. There's so many combinations and so many different opamp sounds and listening preferences that it could go on forever. I find myself trusting some of the members like Hiflight and Headphone Addict quite a bit b/c they have tried so many combinations and have very experienced ears for this stuff (which I don't).

 For me, It's going to be pretty tough to convince me that there's much better for my preferences than 6241 (DAC) with AD743 (L/R) and LHM6655 (buffers). I think that's magical. Right now, I have 6234 (DAC) with AD743 and LMH6655 and I like it, but it's kind of cold and not very engaging.

 I have two amps, the D1 and a Corda Move. If I spend my efforts trying to get the D1 amp to sound like the Move does, it will be a waste of time. There's no way the D1 can put that solid, clean bass and very detailed, up-front presentation into my ears with the detail, clarity and effortlessness of the move. It simply won't compete.

 However, with my current opamps, the D1 will give a much different sound signature to me that is very interesting and unique. It will provide a separated soundstage with detail and clarity, but not that thickness or punchiness to the bass. The sound melts into your ears rather than being forced there (which I feel the Move does sometimes). I think there's something to be said for each amp having a signature sound and embracing that. Is it as good as the Move? No, probably not. But I can get a sound signature and presentation out of it that the Move can't duplicate--and one that is highly enjoyable with classical music and softer acoustic pop music or jazz music. It's wonderful to have options!


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Allure* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The LMH6655 is a rather cold sounding opamp - not so cold and dead as the LMH6643, but not warm and very colorful either, for sure. It's nice anyway.


 Two AD8620 in the buffer position might work well, whereas the AD8599 might work very well in LR in place of the AD797._

 

A lot of the older D1 users have tried the AD8599, and most of us prefer the AD797 to the AD8599. Brush up on this LONG thread please 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.


----------



## tracyrick

I need advice. I've been using my D1 for several weeks now like this: H140 optical out>sysconcepts toslink>D1>ER-4S. Bought it just after the new LT1364 and 6643 buffers got added. My comparison amp of over a year of listening is the Portaphile V2 Maxxed with AD8610 opamps and 634 buffers.

 I'm finally confident about what I'm hearing in the D1. Detail is great, love the product overall, but there is too much brightness. My Portaphile is smoother with more warmth and bottom end, but less detail. I'm guessing the DAC is one reason for more detail from the D1.

 The question: So if I crave more bass from my D1 and less brightness, should I try the AD797? Sounds popular. Or will I lose something there and should go with the more balanced AD743? Not sure about buffer configs with these either...I'm definitely a bass head, but I don't like mud with my bass. Music preference is progressive/heavy rock.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tracyrick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I need advice. I've been using my D1 for several weeks now like this: H140 optical out>sysconcepts toslink>D1>ER-4S. Bought it just after the new LT1364 and 6643 buffers got added. My comparison amp of over a year of listening is the Portaphile V2 Maxxed with AD8610 opamps and 634 buffers.

 I'm finally confident about what I'm hearing in the D1. Detail is great, love the product overall, but there is too much brightness. My Portaphile is smoother with more warmth and bottom end, but less detail. I'm guessing the DAC is one reason for more detail from the D1.

 The question: So if I crave more bass from my D1 and less brightness, should I try the AD797? Sounds popular. Or will I lose something there and should go with the more balanced AD743? Not sure about buffer configs with these either...I'm definitely a bass head, but I don't like mud with my bass. Music preference is progressive/heavy rock._

 

My suggestion (if you can afford it) is to try 2 AD797 and 2 AD743. This guy on Head-Fi has both for sale at a good price: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f44/fs...update-265336/

 I think you'll like the 797 better if you're a bass head...the AD743 isn't particularly bassy (at least with my highly recommended LMH6655 as buffers). Try the AD797 bypassed or with AD8397 as buffers.


----------



## tracyrick

K, how do you bypass buffers? Do you put one of those dummy opamps in?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tracyrick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_K, how do you bypass buffers? Do you put one of those dummy opamps in?_

 

Yes, dummy opamps in the buffers - there's a photo in this thread somewhere.

 As for opamp choice - I am finding the AD797 with AD8397 in buffers makes this a portable amp with p*articular magic with my high end Grado* headphones. It is exceeded only by My Darkvoice 336i tube amp with $80 worth of tubes (Hytron 5692 brownbase with Tung Sol 5998 in the rear) when trying to drive these high current headphones.

 I have the AD743 x2 sitting here that I will hopefully try tonight, but I like the punchy bass and lack of brittle highs, and so I may end up going back to the AD797.

 I have several buffers to try with the AD743 - LM4562, LME49720, LMH6643, and AD8397, and dummy opamps with jumpers.

 Another good opamp with a balanced frequency response for LR is the OPA2111 but it made the sound stage a little too distant for my ears. I think I like the LT1364 better though. And, I liked the AD744x2 in my PIMETA which had very punchy bass, so I may try the AD746 again, which I understand to be the dual version of the 744.

 I have to put together some shelves in my room to hold all my stuff, and a meeting at my kids school at 7pm, so it may not happen tonight.


----------



## brainsalad

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Allure* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Funny that people don't consider the AD8620 for the buffer, since its much better suited there than the LM4562 and LME49720 for its higher output current - and, while it's certainly not so well suited as the AD8397 in this regard, it does sound more refined._

 

How do you know which OP amp will make a better buffer or L/R amp ?

 What is the purpose of the buffer? Is it just for improved impedance matching?

 How do you know if the amp you are using for L/R needs the buffers?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do you know which OP amp will make a better buffer or L/R amp ?

 Most opamps that are suitable for buffers are labelled as such in the datasheets. There are no ironclad rules though. Most opamps that are used for buffers output much more current than to opamps used for other purposes.

 What is the purpose of the buffer? Is it just for improved impedance matching?

 It does help with impedance matching to a greater or lesser degree, again depending on the choice of opamp for LR. 

 How do you know if the amp you are using for L/R needs the buffers?

 Trial and error...often, opamps that output a pretty good current, such as THS4032 and AD797 can be used with the buffer sockets bypassed using dummy opamps._

 

See information inserted between questions above!


----------



## NoRi

I have D1 of a standard composition. 
 Please teach best DAC for SR-71.


----------



## jamato8

Do you want to know the best opamp for the dac section of the D1 if you use the SR-71 as the amp?


----------



## NoRi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you want to know the best opamp for the dac section of the D1 if you use the SR-71 as the amp?_

 

Yes.
 That's right.

 Could you teach the combination of something good opamp?

 Thanks,


----------



## Zephyron

Out of curiosity, the iBasso D1 is now specified from the main site to ship with a high quality optical cable.

 Being the n00b I am at this, may I assume that this optical cable is directly useable from the iRiver H1x0 series DAPs to feed the digital signals directly to the D1's optical input?

 Thanks in advance =)


----------



## mimi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zephyron* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Out of curiosity, the iBasso D1 is now specified from the main site to ship with a high quality optical cable.

 Being the n00b I am at this, may I assume that this optical cable is directly useable from the iRiver H1x0 series DAPs to feed the digital signals directly to the D1's optical input?

 Thanks in advance =)_

 

The cable should be a toslink to toslink, so you will need a toslink to miniplug adaptor to connect to your iRiver.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mimi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The cable should be a toslink to toslink, so you will need a toslink to miniplug adaptor to connect to your iRiver._

 

I got mine from sysconcept.ca (per recommendations from the first page of this thread) and couldn't be happier. You can also order a custom-length high quality optical cable from them. Get the shortest one they make for use with an Iriver. Get the cable toslink-to-toslink. Then get a right angle adapter toslink-to-toslink (that will go into the iBasso). Also, get a right angle adapter toslink-to-mini (that goes in the Iriver or Macbook Pro or any other mini Optical plug).

 I think the custom optical cable was around $20 and the plugs were $2 or $3 a piece. They are of great help if you have questions.


----------



## PPkiller

i ditch ad743 + lm6655... for lme49720/lm4562 + bypass.....


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NoRi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes.
 That's right.

 Could you teach the combination of something good opamp?

 Thanks,_

 

Much of that information is on the first page and in the recent few pages of this thread there is information that should give you everything you need to know.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i ditch ad743 + lm6655... for lme49720/lm4562 + bypass....._

 

Are you saying that either LME49720 or LM4562 can be used in L/R and that they sound the same as each other?


----------



## souperman

Does anyone know when the new D2 is going to come out?


----------



## Monster_Omelette

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know when the new D2 is going to come out?_

 

According to what's been said, the end of this month.


----------



## DNT

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know when the new D2 is going to come out?_

 

It is said to be introduced after Chinese New Year (which was over) so you can expect sometimes this month.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you saying that either LME49720 or LM4562 can be used in L/R and that they sound the same as each other?_

 

it works ok for me with bypass...

 now i'm useing another combi.. i return ad743 and lmh6655 to their places.. and replace 6241 with lmh4562.. 

 the difference now is the separation is much better.. the music flow is smoother and it does not sound that sharp when compared with 6241... 

 take note that i notice a big difference with burn-ined 4562 and new 4562.. you may need to give a greate deal of hours on 4562/49720 before it can really shine...


----------



## PPkiller

4562 and 49720 are suppose to be the same opamp, just that 49720 is the new number given to 4562 due to re-numbering for branding or stock keeping purposes..


----------



## NoRi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Much of that information is on the first page and in the recent few pages of this thread there is information that should give you everything you need to know._

 

It decided it to the immediate order for AD8656 referring to the first page. 

 Opamp and buf ordered AD8620, AD8397, and LM4562. 

 Thanks,


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I've always been under the impression that the 49720 sounds better than the 4562, and the 49720 is an improved version of the 4562.


----------



## Chronos

I'm totally clueless about amps but I had a few questions about the D1

 1) Does it support mic in (ADC) ? I really need that functionality, although I do have a crap USB soundcard with a mic in right now, I'd prefer not to to have to switch between the 2.

 2) How many mW to W can the D1 be adjusted from? 

 3) Would it totally bring my Denon AH-D2000's to the next level and sound amazing together (for a beginner on unamped crap USB soundcard with only E3C and UE 5EB as experience)?
 D2000 specs:
 Impedance: 25 ohms
 Sensitivity: 106dB/mW
 Largest input: 1,800mW 

 I have heard some people say the D2000 is easy to drive while others say it needs a lot of mw?

 4) In simple terms whats the difference between the D1 vs D2? Price difference?

 5) Is it worth waiting out for the D2?

 Thanks in advance for helping this beginner!


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chronos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm totally clueless about amps but I had a few questions about the D1

 1) Does it support mic in (ADC) ? I really need that functionality, although I do have a crap USB soundcard with a mic in right now, I'd prefer not to to have to switch between the 2.

 2) How many mW to W can the D1 be adjusted from? 

 3) Would it totally bring my Denon AH-D2000's to the next level and sound amazing together (for a beginner on unamped crap USB soundcard with only E3C and UE 5EB as experience)?
 D2000 specs:
 Impedance: 25 ohms
 Sensitivity: 106dB/mW
 Largest input: 1,800mW 

 I have heard some people say the D2000 is easy to drive while others say it needs a lot of mw?

 4) In simple terms whats the difference between the D1 vs D2? Price difference?

 5) Is it worth waiting out for the D2?

 Thanks in advance for helping this beginner!_

 

Chronos...

 1: The D1 had 4 inputs: Aux, USB, Optical, Coax. I suspect that the Aux would handle a mike input if it is a 1/8" stereo miniplug, although I have not tried it. It does not have the ability to function as a mixer. I'm not sure what you plan to do with the mike input. 

 2: The output can be adjusted from 0 to earsplitting. There is no milliwatt specification stated, as it depends on the impedance of the driven phones. The sensitivity of your phones are 106 db/mw, so you should have more than adequate power available to damage your hearing!

 3: You should certainly notice a difference using the amp, especially if you use the digital inputs. Whether or not it takes you to another level pretty much depends on your starting point of reference. From a crap soundcard, I would say that you will be very pleased. If you decide to change the opamps to a different combination, you will notice even more improvement. The D1 has great potential for improvements in the sound quality, as you have probably surmised from the D1 thread. 

 4: The D1 has the ability to separate the DAC from the amplifier, allowing it to be used as a standalone DAC. It also has, as previously mentioned above, aux, coax, usb and optical inputs. The D2 has only usb. Cost difference will probably be about $50-60 dollars, although the price for the D2 has not yet been officially posted. The D2 will probably use the P2 amp architecture, which is more sophisticated than that used in the D1. The consensus of opinion is that the stock P2 sounds better than the stock D1. 

 5: Whether it is worth waiting depends on your anticipated usage. If you want to use devices with digital outputs, the D1 is the logical choice. If you want a small amp with less input/output flexibility, but still have a USB input, the D2 will probably serve your needs nicely

 iBasso has been extremely receptive from inputs from their customers, and have made improvements in the opamps that are installed in the stock units. 

 Both the D1 and P2, and very likely the upcoming D2 have opamp sockets to allow the users to experiment with different opamps to custom tailor the amps sound to ones personal preference.


----------



## Chronos

Thank you very much for your help. I am however, still a little confused. Considering that I have no amp and a crap soundcard, I would like the D1/D2 to act as both DAC and an amp for my Denons. I'm not sure what digital out means, I will most likely only be using this with my computer or DAP (samsung yp-t9) as source and my headphones/earphones. 

 The only function I would want is the mic which seems like the D1 would fit better. The mic plug is the same size as any headphone plug (they're actually from a set of headphone+mic combos). I need the mic function for a few of the programs I use (not for music, just purely voice), which would mean some sort of ADC. Does the D1 have this capability?

 Is it safe to assume the D2 is basically a slightly improved D1 but smaller, simpler, and cheaper?

 It is good to know these will power my Denons nicely


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chronos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you very much for your help. I am however, still a little confused. Considering that I have no amp and a crap soundcard, I would like the D1/D2 to act as both DAC and an amp for my Denons. I'm not sure what digital out means, I will most likely only be using this with my computer or DAP (samsung yp-t9) as source and my headphones/earphones. 

 The only function I would want is the mic which seems like the D1 would fit better. The mic plug is the same size as any headphone plug (they're actually from a set of headphone+mic combos). I need the mic function for a few of the programs I use (not for music, just purely voice), which would mean some sort of ADC. Does the D1 have this capability?

 Is it safe to assume the D2 is basically a slightly improved D1 but smaller, simpler, and cheaper?

 It is good to know these will power my Denons nicely 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

not necessarily simpler in the amp section, but less input options.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

When the D1 is acting as an external sound card, it will not take microphone input and feed it to your PC. However, you should be able to use the mixer or some other control panel in Windows to use the mic in from the normal sound card, but do audio out through the D1.

 In the Mac, that is all done with the Audio MIDI setup application, and I can use the built-in mic of my Macbook, but send sound out through the USB DAC.


----------



## Chronos

Alright so it seems to me like I can go with either the D1 or D2 for functionality, and the difference should be minimal in terms of sound quality as well. 

 So the only reasons justifying the wait for the D2 would be that it might be smaller/more portable and cheaper than the D1?


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chronos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Alright so it seems to me like I can go with either the D1 or D2 for functionality, and the difference should be minimal in terms of sound quality as well. 

 So the only reasons justifying the wait for the D2 would be that it might be smaller/more portable and cheaper than the D1?_

 

The difference for me would be simple: do you need Optical and/or Coax inputs? If not, get the D2. If you do, get the D1.


----------



## Chronos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The difference for me would be simple: do you need Optical and/or Coax inputs? If not, get the D2. If you do, get the D1._

 

yea it seems like the D2 is better suited for me because I dont' need the inputs and benefit from the smaller size and slightly better SQ. But I'm very eager to try out an amp so I'm trying to justify waiting for them


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I would just wait for the D2 in your case.

 I my case, I couldn't have lived without my D1 as a desktop/bedside table DAC, but I wanted a very small portable USB DAC amp, and the D2 wasn't out yet, so I bought the Predator...

 If you need one now, Predatpr is only $475 shipped for a new one, and you'd get it right away, otherwise you get to wait.


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Chronos...

 1: The D1 had 4 inputs: Aux, USB, Optical, Coax. I suspect that the Aux would handle a mike input if it is a 1/8" stereo miniplug, although I have not tried it. It does not have the ability to function as a mixer. I'm not sure what you plan to do with the mike input. 

 2: The output can be adjusted from 0 to earsplitting. There is no milliwatt specification stated, as it depends on the impedance of the driven phones. The sensitivity of your phones are 106 db/mw, so you should have more than adequate power available to damage your hearing!

 3: You should certainly notice a difference using the amp, especially if you use the digital inputs. Whether or not it takes you to another level pretty much depends on your starting point of reference. From a crap soundcard, I would say that you will be very pleased. If you decide to change the opamps to a different combination, you will notice even more improvement. The D1 has great potential for improvements in the sound quality, as you have probably surmised from the D1 thread. 

 4: The D1 has the ability to separate the DAC from the amplifier, allowing it to be used as a standalone DAC. It also has, as previously mentioned above, aux, coax, usb and optical inputs. The D2 has only usb. Cost difference will probably be about $50-60 dollars, although the price for the D2 has not yet been officially posted. The D2 will probably use the P2 amp architecture, which is more sophisticated than that used in the D1. The consensus of opinion is that the stock P2 sounds better than the stock D1. 

 5: Whether it is worth waiting depends on your anticipated usage. If you want to use devices with digital outputs, the D1 is the logical choice. If you want a small amp with less input/output flexibility, but still have a USB input, the D2 will probably serve your needs nicely

 iBasso has been extremely receptive from inputs from their customers, and have made improvements in the opamps that are installed in the stock units. 

 Both the D1 and P2, and very likely the upcoming D2 have opamp sockets to allow the users to experiment with different opamps to custom tailor the amps sound to ones personal preference._

 

I remember reading on the iBasso site that only the first 100 amps shipping will have opamp sockets.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Well, with these new re-cabled Ultrasone HFI780 I've been searching for amp synergy.

 As previously posted, I first found the DarkVoice 336i with Sylvania VT-231 ($60) in front and Tung Sol 5998 ($30) in the back is best for home amp, keeping the sound stage as big as possible, while taming the bright treble. 

 Tonight I spent a couple of hours swapping opamps in the iBasso D1 to see what suited the HFI780 best. I ended up with: 
*AD743x2 in the LR* with a 2:1 adapter (the AD797 were very close), and the 
*LMH6643 in the buffers* (instead of the AD8397 which was a little harsh), and the 
*LTC6241HV in the DAC* (instead of LT6234 which was brighter).

*This D1 opamp combo seems fantastic with the HFI780*, although the DAC might still need a little taming. But soundstage depth is improved, and the frequency balance seems just right, while everything is very transparent. No details are lost with these opamps either, and they will play as loud as I need them to. It sounds very similar to the DarkVoice 336i now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 HiFlight has been recommending I try some of these opamps for a while, and now I'm sorry I didn't try it sooner.

*When skipping the iBasso DAC and using my Headstage USB DAC, the sound is wonderfully transparent, natural and full without any excessive brightness.* The original opamp selections were optimal for my Grado RS-2 with APS V3 cable, Denon D2000 with APS v2 cable, HD600 with APS v3 cable, and Edition 9/Proline 2500. I will try all those other headphones with these opamps during the day Wednesday sometime.

 So, next is to try more opamps in the DAC - I have left over OPA2111, AD746, AD823, LT1364, LM4562 (2), LME49720NA (2), AD8397 (2), and AD8066, AD8616, AD8656. Based on previous recent posts, I'm thinking the LM4562 will be the next one to try, but has anyone tried the LME49720? Which other ones have you guys tried in DAC that might suit my needs besides the LM4562?


----------



## jamato8

I haven't tried all the combinations but I find the 4562 and to a lesser degree, the 49720 to be more HiFi like, with an artificial presentation of the frequencies that is somehow plastic in nature.


----------



## PPkiller

you should try 6655 for the buffers.. i compared both 6643 & 6655 with the ad743... they sound different.. and i prefer the sound of 6655..


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you should try 6655 for the buffers.. i compared both 6643 & 6655 with the ad743... they sound different.. and i prefer the sound of 6655.._

 

Yeah, in the ALO HFI780 thread I said I was going to order some 6655 but that info didn't make it into this thread. I'd then try 6643 in DAC when I get them.

 My D1 was one of the first made and came with NE5532 in the buffers, AD823 in the LR, and AD8616 in the DAC, so I've amassed quite a variety of opamps already. Any other DAC suggestions?


----------



## HiFlight

LM6172


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Okay, will search for that. I thought I had a LM6172 in a dead amp, but it was a 5532. My Lyrix has a 6172 in IC2 that I am not harvesting


----------



## haymaker18

I wanted to make an observation concerning the Corda MOVE and the iBasso D1:

 In my iBasso, I have 6241HV as DAC and AD743 as L/R and LMH6655 as buffers...

 Generally speaking, I love the sound of the MOVE (especially when driving my Senn HD650s) and it's precise accuracy and powerful, warm representation. The iBasso doesn't seem to have that driving energy to the sound that I certainly desire for rock or fuller symphonic works. 

 However, I have been listening to some Bach piano inventions played by Glenn Gould. The iBasso is absolutely fantastic when paired with my Yuin PK1s. Especially in the quieter inventions, there is such perfect realism and higher overtones present that I don't get when I feed the sound to the MOVE. Now, part of this may be the 6241HV DAC isn't the best pairing with the MOVE, but the sound is 'dead' when it comes out of the MOVE. There isn't a liveliness to it and the sound is cold and uninteresting. The D1's presentation is far better. 

 Now, I don't know how far this comparison can be extrapolated. The MOVE really is a better all-around amp, but I have discovered that on at least some music, the D1 is 'magical' and can create listening environments that the MOVE cannot. Maybe it's just the expansive soundstage of the AD743 with the 6655 buffers that I'm noticing, but whatever it is, the D1 is capable of some special sound reproduction...


----------



## joeq70

I am currently using the 6241 in the DAC section of my iBasso D1. I also have a 6241HV...what's the difference between the two?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joeq70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am currently using the 6241 in the DAC section of my iBasso D1. I also have a 6241HV...what's the difference between the two?_

 

The HV is the higher voltage.


----------



## tracyrick

Thanks to Musicmaker and HiFlight I switched out my stock LT1364 and stock buffers for AD797 and dummy opamps (bypassed buffers) this weekend. It took very little time to notice the difference:

 Stock LT1364 - Sparkly highs and thin sound
 AD797 - Normal highs and thicker, more natural sound. Beefier bass and mids. The clear winner for me!

 Maybe it's only because of my ER-4S that the LT1364 sound so bright? Well, previously I took off my P>S cable and my ER-4P also sounded bright with the LT1364. It's more than subtle to me, it's annoying and unnatural and I knew I needed to change it. In a way I wanted to like the "sparklyness" of it, but the lack of bass and mids and the thinness were too much to ignore.

 Next I tried out my Portaphile V2 Maxxed amp vs. the D1 AD797 amp. I used the D1 DAC via H140 optical out in both cases. My D1 amp now sounds almost identical to my V2. Previously my V2 sounded the way I describe the AD797 - I love that sound. Maybe the V2's AD8610s are similar to the AD797? I don't know. I do know that I can't tell the difference between my V2 and D1 now with these new opamps.

 So the V2 does NOT need to be part of my sound chain now. Maybe the V2 amp is still better than the D1's amp, but if I can't tell the difference then if doesn't matter. Too bad the D1 is so big - but getting a DAC, amp, and sizeable battery pack inside makes it worth it to me.

 Music: I listened to FLAC versions of songs from CDs I think are mixed very well. I look for great bass lines, bass drums, and treble from cymbals and hi hats, etc...Rush - Snakes & Arrows has a GREAT mix for listening tests, tons of highs and defined lows to listen to. Dream Theater - Systematic Chaos, Train of Thought. Tool - their 3 latest CDs. Pantera - Greatest hits, another great mix here.
 Gear: h140 optical out>Sysconcepts optical cable >D1 &/or V2 > ER-4S/P


----------



## jamato8

I am still trying to figure out how to use FLAC with my Mac to put on my iRiver.


----------



## HiFlight

Stand by for yet another great opamp combo for the D1! Details will be posted shortly!


----------



## jamato8

I look forward to it.


----------



## PPkiller

same here...


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I look forward to it._

 

Here it is!

 LR: ISL55002IB
 Buffers: THS4032
 DAC: LM6172

 The sound is superb, an open window to the music. The greatest improvements are the highs...clear, detailed, crisp, with excellent transient response. The great detail does not result in listener fatigue during long listening session. Each instrument seems to have a space around it, and even during complex passages, one can easily identify the various instruments

 Soundstage truly extends beyond the confines of one's head, with very accurate and realistic imaging. 

 I have tried this opamp with several different buffers; the AD8397 had good mid and bottom, but highs were rolled off (believe it or not)
 AD8066: very unpleasant highs; they were harsh and overbearing.
 LMH6643: smooth, closer soundstage, but not as realistic tonally as the THS4032. 

 I did not try the LMH6655s, as I sold all but one. I will give them a try when I get some more in. 

 At first listen, one will likely feel that this combination is quite bright, but I think overall, it is extremely neutral...what is there, you hear. 
 I have heard nuances in many of my recordings that I had not heard before I happened upon this particular combination of opamps. 

 I do have another LR opamp that I will be comparing against the ISL 55002 as soon as I get in some more Browndogs, but it will have to be really spectacular to bump the ISL!


----------



## jamato8

Fantastic! I look forward to more impressions. I had to send my D1 back to iBasso for a bit of damage I did. I should have it back in a few days. I am not sure of those opamps what I have. Seems like I have all the older ones we always tried.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here it is!

 I have tried this opamp with several different buffers; the AD8397 had good mid and bottom, but highs were rolled off (believe it or not)_

 


 exactly what i got when i pair ad8397 with opa627.. the highs are badly rolled off.. athough ad8397 suppose to sound brighter...

 thanks hiflight... u just pumped in more life to D1 opamp rolling....


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fantastic! I look forward to more impressions. I had to send my D1 back to iBasso for a bit of damage I did. I should have it back in a few days. I am not sure of those opamps what I have. Seems like I have all the older ones we always tried._

 

Did you manage to salvage all those Black Gates and stuff?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At first listen, one will likely feel that this combination is quite bright, but I think overall, it is extremely neutral...what is there, you hear. 
 I have heard nuances in many of my recordings that I had not heard before I happened upon this particular combination of opamps. _

 

That is the same thing that I thought when I heard my Livewires the first time - my eyes were opened, or should I say, ears...


----------



## BlueS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here it is!

 LR: ISL55002IB
 Buffers: THS4032
 DAC: LM6172

 The sound is superb, an open window to the music. The greatest improvements are the highs...clear, detailed, crisp, with excellent transient response. The great detail does not result in listener fatigue during long listening session. Each instrument seems to have a space around it, and even during complex passages, one can easily identify the various instruments

 Soundstage truly extends beyond the confines of one's head, with very accurate and realistic imaging. 

 I have tried this opamp with several different buffers; the AD8397 had good mid and bottom, but highs were rolled off (believe it or not)
 AD8066: very unpleasant highs; they were harsh and overbearing.
 LMH6643: smooth, closer soundstage, but not as realistic tonally as the THS4032. 

 I did not try the LMH6655s, as I sold all but one. I will give them a try when I get some more in. 

 At first listen, one will likely feel that this combination is quite bright, but I think overall, it is extremely neutral...what is there, you hear. 
 I have heard nuances in many of my recordings that I had not heard before I happened upon this particular combination of opamps. 

 I do have another LR opamp that I will be comparing against the ISL 55002 as soon as I get in some more Browndogs, but it will have to be really spectacular to bump the ISL!_

 

Hmm...

 You're using in the DAC, at 5V or so, the LM6172 that is specified for not under +/- 5V. I wonder how it can even sound good. LT1361 or AD8022 would be much better suited.

 And you're using in the buffer an opamp that is not stable at a gain of 1, but only from G=2 and with questionable capacitive load drive. Also, this opamp (THS4032) doesn't work too well with supplies below +/- 5V.


 Were it my D1, I'd much rather do something like this: LT1361 (DAC) , ISL55002 (LR) , LMH6655/AD8397 (buffer).


 For a unity gain stable opamp in the THS series of Texas opamps, try the THS4052. It has the same good output current, but better capacitive load drive than the 4032.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Interesting 1st post, familiar writing style.


----------



## meusickfrek




----------



## BlueS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Interesting 1st post, familiar writing style._

 

If you dislike the author, you're always free to remain in ignorance. LOL


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blues* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm...

 You're using in the DAC, at 5V or so, the LM6172 that is specified for not under +/- 5V. I wonder how it can even sound good. LT1361 or AD8022 would be much better suited.

 And you're using in the buffer an opamp that is not stable at a gain of 1, but only from G=2 and with questionable capacitive load drive. Also, this opamp (THS4032) doesn't work too well with supplies below +/- 5V.


 Were it my D1, I'd much rather do something like this: LT1361 (DAC) , ISL55002 (LR) , LMH6655/AD8397 (buffer).


 For a unity gain stable opamp in the THS series of Texas opamps, try the THS4052. It has the same good output current, but better capacitive load drive than the 4032._

 

you sound familiar.. :-x


----------



## haymaker18

post deleted


----------



## HiFlight

I guess I choose to remain ignorant!


----------



## BlueS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I guess I choose to remain ignorant!_

 

In a way - I guess - you have a right to do so.


----------



## tracyrick

Hey, HiFlight. I'm trying to think of something to compare your post to. If I think the AD797 sound rich/thick, will your new combo sound like that but with better highs? Or do the better highs come at the expense of less bass/mids? Also, are you getting any of the thinness that comes with the LT1364? (assuming you agree that the LT1364 sounds thin). Also, how good is availability in general on these chips you're talking about?


----------



## Krohn

I started reading this thread shortly after Jam started it. I followed for about 65 pages before I stopped. I finally made the jump, and purchased a D1 on the FS forums. I'm really excited to hear how this little guy sounds. It's latest version from iBasso that I got.

 I hope this amp is all it seems to be 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I see myself sending off some PM's to certain OP Amp rolling experts in the very near future. As much as I've tried and would like to, I still can't solder a damn thing. But I must hear the stock D1 before anything.

 I was foolish to think I was done once I got an Arietta, it seems to have only just begun!


----------



## haymaker18

I think the 1364 sounds thin, for what it's worth. The AD797 is about as thick as I've heard in the L/R (at the expense of some clarity).


----------



## BlueS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the 1364 sounds thin, for what it's worth. The AD797 is about as thick as I've heard in the L/R (at the expense of some clarity)._

 

I disagree somewhat - not so (at all!) in my Xenos 1HA-EPC and in my SUPER Pro DAC 707. It has a lot of bass extension and dynamics in both, and a pleasant sense of "meat" with vocals. Probably it depends on the circuit surrounding it.

 Instead I did not find the AD797 so thick, when used to drive headphones.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blues* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I disagree somewhat - not so (at all!) in my Xenos 1HA-EPC and in my SUPER Pro DAC 707. It has a lot of bass extension and dynamics in both, and a pleasant sense of "meat" with vocals. Probably it depends on the circuit surrounding it.

 Instead I did not find the AD797 so thick, when used to drive headphones._

 

You may be right...I was referring to how these opamps sound in the D1.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tracyrick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey, HiFlight. I'm trying to think of something to compare your post to. If I think the AD797 sound rich/thick, will your new combo sound like that but with better highs? Or do the better highs come at the expense of less bass/mids? Also, are you getting any of the thinness that comes with the LT1364? (assuming you agree that the LT1364 sounds thin). Also, how good is availability in general on these chips you're talking about?_

 

The new combo is rather hard to compare, but overall, it is not as thick/rich as the 797, but fuller with a better soundstage than the 1364. The highs are more realistic than either of the others. Lows are there, but not over-emphasized. 

 It is a very neutral sound. Good sources sound outstanding, mediocre sources sound not so good. This combo covers up nothing. What is there, or not there is what is presented. 

 It is probably not an opamp combo that would be preferred by a dyed-in-the-wool basshead. 

 I personally like the sound better than the AD797 because of the nearly perfect highs. Crystaline and accurate. Much of my evaluation time was spend listening to recordings that I had heard live, and those that had lots of highs and transients, such as cymbals, snare drums, etc. 

 Lows are easier for an amplifier to portray correctly than are the highs, as highs are very rich in harmonics and overtones.
 Think of telling the difference between an oboe and clarinet, viola vs cello.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The new combo is rather hard to compare, but overall, it is not as thick/rich as the 797, but fuller with a better soundstage than the 1364. The highs are more realistic than either of the others. Lows are there, but not over-emphasized. 

 It is a very neutral sound. Good sources sound outstanding, mediocre sources sound not so good. This combo covers up nothing. What is there, or not there is what is presented. 

 It is probably not an opamp combo that would be preferred by a dyed-in-the-wool basshead. 

 I personally like the sound better than the AD797 because of the nearly perfect highs. Crystaline and accurate. Much of my evaluation time was spend listening to recordings that I had heard live, and those that had lots of highs and transients, such as cymbals, snare drums, etc. 

 Lows are easier for an amplifier to portray correctly than are the highs, as highs are very rich in harmonics and overtones.
 Think of telling the difference between an oboe and clarinet, viola vs cello._

 

Outstanding explanation...thanks!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have to still rank the AD743 on a 2:1 as my favorite, with the AD797 right behind it. I am guessing that I am leaning in the direction of "basshead" except for the fact that the Denon D5000 bass was too much for me, so that goes against logic.

 While the 743 may not be as bassy as 797, there is no tilting of the sound in the direction of the highs, and the highs and mids are clearer, and the "sub"bass may even be more audible.


----------



## BlueS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The new combo is rather hard to compare, but overall, it is not as thick/rich as the 797, but fuller with a better soundstage than the 1364. The highs are more realistic than either of the others. Lows are there, but not over-emphasized._

 

I'm not sure what you mean - the LT1364 alone driving the phones without buffers (and if so with what DAC opamp), the LT1364 used for only the buffers, or the LT1364 used in all sockets? It's not exactly the same.


 BTW, if you like the THS4032 for the buffers, you really have to try the THS4052, since it is almost the same but with more suitable parameters for the purpose.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blues* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure what you mean - the LT1364 alone driving the phones without buffers (and if so with what DAC opamp), the LT1364 used for only the buffers, or the LT1364 used in all sockets? It's not exactly the same._

 

To clarify, the LT1364 was used WITH buffers and various DAC opamps. I am not displeased with the LT1364 as LR, I just think the ISL55002 is better.


----------



## HiFlight

Although I really do like the ISL55002, I still have a couple of new combos to evaluate in both the D1 and P2. I don't yet know which will find a permanent place in my D1, but the field is certainly narrowing!


----------



## BlueS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To clarify, the LT1364 was used WITH buffers and various DAC opamps. I am not displeased with the LT1364 as LR, I just think the ISL55002 is better._

 

Could be! I want to hear the new Intersil opamp.


----------



## haymaker18

Does anyone know where to buy the ISL55002IB? Newark seems to be able to order it, but it is supposed to take like 40 days of lead time! Also, they can direct ship it from supplier, but then the one opamp is $20.

 Any other ideas of where to purchase?

 Also, of the stocked LM6172 at Newark, is there a preference between LM6172IM/NOPB and LM6172IMX...looks like the MX might have a higher voltage cap?

 Thanks for the help--there's so many of these little difference and I don't always find them clear on the descriptions.

 -dan


----------



## haymaker18

FWIW, both ISL55002IB and LM6172IM appear to be in stock at Avnet Electronics. I just ordered several of each.

 -dan


----------



## BlueS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_FWIW, both ISL55002IB and LM6172IM appear to be in stock at Avnet Electronics. I just ordered several of each.

 -dan_

 

Again, the LM6172 is not (really) recommended for a +5V power supply. Much better the AD8022 and LT1361 (a slightly less smooth and slightly more detailed variant of the LT1364).


----------



## haymaker18

As long as it sounds great and I'm not gonna get electrocuted, should I really care? It can't be that dangerous if it sounds that good, can it? If it can't handle the voltage, won't it just wreck the opamp? No big deal there...

 -dan


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As long as it sounds great and I'm not gonna get electrocuted, should I really care? It can't be that dangerous if it sounds that good, can it? If it can't handle the voltage, won't it just wreck the opamp? No big deal there...

 -dan_

 

It is not as if the opamp cannot handle that much voltage, it will not self-destruct, as it can handle 30vdc or +-15v. On the other hand, the AD8656 will fail if used in the LR or buffer sockets. 

 I am of the "if it sounds great, use it" camp, assuming the opamp is capable of handling the supply voltage. 

 FWIW, my only criteria when experimenting with various combinations of opamps is how much the sound resembles what I would hear live. I don't look for bass, mids, trebles, etc, just that elusive perception of LIVE which admittedly has psychoacoustic ramifications as well as simply audio factors. 

 I also try all of my phones before suggesting a particular combination for folks to try, as I have often found a combo that sounds really great on my circumaural phones, but terrible with my IEMs or vice-versa. Why that happens, I don't know, as in theory, they should all sound the same. I suspect that capacitance and inductance factors throughout the amp circuitry accounts for these differences. 

 About the only use I make of the datasheet specs is to look at the noise figures and squarewave response to both large and small inputs. I have found that invariably the opamps that have both good squarewave response and low noise sound quite good for audio applications. I do, of course, check to make sure that the opamp is capable of handling the supply voltage used in that particular socket. 

 Specifications alone are not indicative of how good the opamps will sound. Consider for example the LME49720 and its earlier versions...they have superb specs, but sound rather unemotional, analytical, and, to my ears, not especially realistic in either SQ or imaging.


----------



## PPkiller

i disagree with the comment on lme49720... 

 my point.. lme49720 and lm4562 really needs lots of burn in time to make it sound wonderful..


----------



## haymaker18

OK, first impressions on the LM6172IM (DAC), ISL55002IB (L/R), THS4032ID (buffers) after only 3 hours of burn-in:

 By FAR the most similar sound to my Corda Move amp I have yet heard from the D1. I have to compliment Ron in finding this combination because--to me--the sound seems to now be in the same ballpark as some of the amps people would call 'very good'. It is now capable of that energetic driving precision that sounds almost effortless. 

 Alarmingly, I was hearing a few spots in some of my Glenn Gould piano recordings where it sounds like the levels in the recording maxed out a little. I was worried it was the amp's problem, but it sounds like it's the recording in question. As Ron mentioned, you hear whatever is there and it's not cleaning up bad recordings for you (like the AD743/LMH6655 combination will). I still want to listen more before I decide whether to stick with it or go back to the AD743 and LMH6655--I really liked those two for the generous warmth and monstrously separated soundstage...really nice with my music preferences. However, I was listening to Mahler's 2nd symphony with the new setup...when all the choirs and instruments play together at the end, it was the first time that the D1's sound at that spot in the music sounded truly uncompressed. Usually I hear compression in the choir at the top/higher frequencies. This time it sounded natural and fully extended. How exciting!

 More impressions to come...

 -Dan


----------



## jamato8

Fantastic.


----------



## tracyrick

Please help me remember. I rolled opamps with AD797 but I'm not a home with my D1 and can't remember all this stuff:

 LR: ISL55002IB - Plug and Play? Don't need to use adapter? Can just buy one? 

 Buffers: THS4032 - Plug and Play? Must buy 2?

 DAC: LM6172 - Plug and play or requires soldering? Just buy one?


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tracyrick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Please help me remember. I rolled opamps with AD797 but I'm not a home with my D1 and can't remember all this stuff:

 LR: ISL55002IB - Plug and Play? Don't need to use adapter? Can just buy one? 

 Buffers: THS4032 - Plug and Play? Must buy 2?

 DAC: LM6172 - Plug and play or requires soldering? Just buy one?_

 

You only need one ISL55002IB...it's SOIC, so you have to solder it to a browndog adapter.

 You'll need 2 THS4032- it's SOIC, so you have to solder it to a browndog adapter

 You only need one LM6172 - it's SOIC so you have to solder it to a browndog adapter. 

 You can find the Browndog adapters here: SO8 to 8-pin DIP Adapter (p/n 970601) - 970601

 They essentially take a 8-pin SOIC opamp and convert it to work with the 8-pin DIP setup of the iBasso D1. The name of the product you are looking for on their website is "SO8 to 8-pin DIP Adapter (p/n 970601)"

 If you aren't up to the soldering yourself (which is quite enjoyable IMHO), you can see if HiFlight will solder the necessary opamps to the adapter and then mail them to you for a few $$.


----------



## breakfastchef

Quick question about the signal path in the D1. How does signal flow through the D1? Does the USB input flow through the DAC op amp and buffers, while the coax, optical and analog inputs run through the LR op amp and buffers.


----------



## haymaker18

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *breakfastchef* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Quick question about the signal path in the D1. How does signal flow through the D1? Does the USB input flow through the DAC op amp and buffers, while the coax, optical and analog inputs run through the LR op amp and buffers._

 

It's my understanding that USB, coax and optical all run through the DAC because they contain digital signals that have to be converted. The front analog input would not b/c it's already an analog signal. Now, as far as which signals run through the buffers and/or L/R, I haven't a clue...

 -dan


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *haymaker18* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's my understanding that USB, coax and optical all run through the DAC because they contain digital signals that have to be converted. The front analog input would not b/c it's already an analog signal. Now, as far as which signals run through the buffers and/or L/R, I haven't a clue...

 -dan_

 

Eventually all of the signals, digital and analog run thru LR and buffers.


----------



## idunno

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Eventually all of the signals, digital and analog run thru LR and buffers._

 

except the aux/out, right?


----------



## recephasan

Okay, it's been a while since I posted my opamp combinations:

 for the E500:
 DAC 6234, L/R 2xOPA627, Buf 8620

 for RS-1
 DAC 6234, L/R 2xAD797, Buf 8066

 Anyone try something SIMILAR with one or two opamps different?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *idunno* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_except the aux/out, right?_

 

Correct...when running the unit as a DAC only, feeding the output from the Aux/Out to another amp, the signal does not pass thru the LR and Buffers.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *recephasan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, it's been a while since I posted my opamp combinations:

 for the E500:
 DAC 6234, L/R 2xOPA627, Buf 8620

 for RS-1
 DAC 6234, L/R 2xAD797, Buf 8066

 Anyone try something SIMILAR with one or two opamps different?_

 

Similar for RS-2/HF-1/HP-1000 (smooth highs and bumps the bass)
 DAC LT6234, L/R 2xAD797, Buf AD8297

 Total different (opens the sound stage)
 DAC LT6234 or AD8656, L/R OPA2111, Buf AD8397 

 Totally different for HFI-780 (stock or modded by ALOaudio)
 DAC LTC6241HV, L/R 2xAD743, Buff LMH6643


----------



## recephasan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Similar for RS-2/HF-1/HP-1000 (smooth highs and bumps the bass)
 DAC LT6234, L/R 2xAD797, Buf AD8297

 Total different (opens the sound stage)
 DAC LT6234 or AD8656, L/R OPA2111, Buf AD8397 

 Totally different for HFI-780 (stock or modded by ALOaudio)
 DAC LTC6241HV, L/R 2xAD743, Buff LMH6643_

 

Somehow the 8397 does not do well for me. Used them with RS-1, too shrill. Used them with E500, still too fatiguing after 4-5 hours, although sweet till then.

 I just switched my E500 setup to:

 DAC LM6172, L/R OPA627, BUF LTC6241HV


----------



## jamato8

The 8397 isn't my favorite. Too much energy on top and a little brittle but it is also implementation/operating parameters.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I think the AD8397 sounds different to me in the buffers than as a main amp. I think it tends to be a little brighter in amps that use it for LR at times, but it complements the AD797 in LR when used as buffers.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here it is!

 LR: ISL55002IB
 Buffers: THS4032
 DAC: LM6172

 The sound is superb, an open window to the music. The greatest improvements are the highs...clear, detailed, crisp, with excellent transient response. The great detail does not result in listener fatigue during long listening session. Each instrument seems to have a space around it, and even during complex passages, one can easily identify the various instruments

 Soundstage truly extends beyond the confines of one's head, with very accurate and realistic imaging. 

 I have tried this opamp with several different buffers; the AD8397 had good mid and bottom, but highs were rolled off (believe it or not)
 AD8066: very unpleasant highs; they were harsh and overbearing.
 LMH6643: smooth, closer soundstage, but not as realistic tonally as the THS4032. 

 I did not try the LMH6655s, as I sold all but one. I will give them a try when I get some more in. 

 At first listen, one will likely feel that this combination is quite bright, but I think overall, it is extremely neutral...what is there, you hear. 
 I have heard nuances in many of my recordings that I had not heard before I happened upon this particular combination of opamps. 

 I do have another LR opamp that I will be comparing against the ISL 55002 as soon as I get in some more Browndogs, but it will have to be really spectacular to bump the ISL!_

 

any new findings? i'm thinking of changing opamp.. ^-^


----------



## psc001

I have a question about my D1. I've been using it for my PC usb to speaker since I bought and now I wanted to try optical or even line in. I tried with both optical and line in and none of them work (USB still works...!) I can't remember now but did somebody have a similar problem before ? Is is related to the MCU and how do it fix it?


----------



## breakfastchef

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *psc001* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a question about my D1. I've been using it for my PC usb to speaker since I bought and now I wanted to try optical or even line in. I tried with both optical and line in and none of them work (USB still works...!) I can't remember now but did somebody have a similar problem before ? Is is related to the MCU and how do it fix it?_

 

Don't have more than one input running to the D1. Shut it off, remove any input cables, plug in the input you want to use, turn it on and it will figure out how to route the signal through the box. If you had the USB plugged in and then tried to use the optical, the D1 was already configured internally to accept the USB signal, hence, it blocked out the other inputs.


----------



## psc001

Thanx for the tip. However I still don't get the sound using optical after turning it on and off. What could it be?


----------



## jamato8

Is the optical from your source working? Do you see, at an angle don't look right at it, the red optical signal coming from the end of the optical cable. Some have to have the optical out engaged.


----------



## psc001

You know the optical is working now!!! You were right! I saw the red optical out and D1 is working with that. But the Aux in/out is still not working with Ipod...! Do you have any clues as to why...?


----------



## HiFlight

If your USB is still plugged in, even though it is inoperative, the Aux input will not work. The USB input takes priority, even with no signal


----------



## psc001

My USB is not plugged and I always connect to a single input ! (such as Only USB or Only Ipod or Only optical) I am not sure why Ipod input doesn't work when USB and Optical seem to work fine...-_-;


----------



## jamato8

Do you have the volume on the ipod turned up? It could be if the volume is not up the voltage out will not trigger the chip that changes inputs. Just a thought.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Yah, the D1 picks which input to use once it detects the signal, and only one signal at a time should be connected, but also be sure the signal is on. 

 So, analog must be turned up, or optical or USB must be putting out a signal, for the microchip to switch the inputs and that is done when the amp is turned on. Seems backwards to turn on the source before the amp, but it is the best way. And, because of a turn on pop, I plug the phones in last.


----------



## psc001

Thank you guys for your input on this matter. But I still have the same problem and my Ipod's volume is highest when I turned on my D1. Now here's a little change; with my Ipod's volume highest and D1's volume highest, I hear a tiny sound coming from the headphone. What might be happening?


----------



## recephasan

having changed opamps so many times, the sockets now become intermittent every once in a while. if you've never done this, then it probably isn't it, but opening the unit up and wiggling the opamps should tell you if this is the problem.

 also, I own two units and both have major cold solder problems, causing similar intermittence. poor solder job does cause this.


----------



## recephasan

my favorite setup for E500 now is:
 dac: AD8397 (yes)
 l/r: OPA627
 buf: LT6234

 sings soo good!


----------



## psc001

But why would it only affect Aux in/out and not USB and optical...? Also, how do you like computer SPDIF vs USB ...? I was thinking about it since I use it mainly for my pc.


----------



## recephasan

serves me right for not having read your previous posts. 
 there is a multiplexer chip that distributes the inputs. 
 here is my next crackpot idea: the inputs to the chip have poor connections 
 if it ever worked and then stopped working, cold solder is a likely cause. much more plausible than a blown chip


----------



## sum1

Hi guys,

 I am currently starting to opamp roll my D1 but i am such a newbie that i would like to ask a question. How do you know which way you are supposed to plug the opamps to the socket? The socket looks identical all way around and i've heard that if you plug it in the wrong way that it will blow up your D1 

 I am currently on stock 2nd revision D1 and i am finding it dry,thin and distant sounding so i am looking for a warmish upfront mid sound. Currently HeadphoneAddict's combo of AD8397 with the AD797 sounds like a good combo. I've also head the stock DAC opamp is also a good opamp so its not necessary to change them. If anyone has any recommendation then please tell me about it


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys,

 I am currently starting to opamp roll my D1 but i am such a newbie that i would like to ask a question. How do you know which way you are supposed to plug the opamps to the socket? The socket looks identical all way around and i've heard that if you plug it in the wrong way that it will blow up your D1 

 I am currently on stock 2nd revision D1 and i am finding it dry,thin and distant sounding so i am looking for a warmish upfront mid sound. Currently HeadphoneAddict's combo of AD8397 with the AD797 sounds like a good combo. I've also head the stock DAC opamp is also a good opamp so its not necessary to change them. If anyone has any recommendation then please tell me about it _

 

Look closely at the opamp socket and you'll see that it isn't identical at both ends - one end has a concave semicircular notch. Align the opamp notch with the one in the socket.

 I've recently been exploring opamps and can confirm the DAC opamp you have is the best IMHO. I also like the different, much more disperse, characteristics of the LT6234 and, on occasion, may throw that in to hear how it effects the presnetation of a particular track or two. But the LT6241 stays in there long term 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.

 FYI my conclusions are LT6241 (DAC), THS4032 (LR), LMH6655 (Buffer).

 If I could get my hands on an AD743 I'd be wanting to try that one in the LR, but that's all.


----------



## musicmaker

The LT6234 vs LT6241 is a tough one. If I recall correctly the 6241 was warmer than the 6234. Both are very nice choices. Comes down to personal preference really.


----------



## mrarroyo

sum1;4070305 said:
			
		

> ... How do you know which way you are supposed to plug the opamps to the socket? The socket looks identical all way around and i've heard that if you plug it in the wrong way that it will blow up your D1 ...QUOTE]
> 
> 
> It will not blow up but the op-amp will go up in smoke!
> ...


----------



## sum1

ah i see the difference now. Thanks guys. Now i just need to read this huge thread for some opamps


----------



## jamato8

There are images on the first page that show orientation etc. etc.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Look closely at the opamp socket and you'll see that it isn't identical at both ends - one end has a concave semicircular notch. Align the opamp notch with the one in the socket.

 I've recently been exploring opamps and can confirm the DAC opamp you have is the best IMHO. I also like the different, much more disperse, characteristics of the LT6234 and, on occasion, may throw that in to hear how it effects the presnetation of a particular track or two. But the LT6241 stays in there long term 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 FYI my conclusions are LT6241 (DAC), THS4032 (LR), LMH6655 (Buffer).

 If I could get my hands on an AD743 I'd be wanting to try that one in the LR, but that's all._

 

The AD743 is a little more neutral than the AD797, and gives up a little bit of the bass punch for a little crisper highs. I actually like them both - go figure - so I am keeping both.

 The good news is my D1 should ship back to me in a couple of days, after having a channel imbalance in the DAC looked at. I loaned it out for a couple weeks, and got it back with the right channel about 3db louder than the left.


----------



## recephasan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys,
 I am currently on stock 2nd revision D1 and i am finding it dry,thin and distant sounding so i am looking for a warmish upfront mid sound. Currently HeadphoneAddict's combo of AD8397 with the AD797 sounds like a good combo. I've also head the stock DAC opamp is also a good opamp so its not necessary to change them. If anyone has any recommendation then please tell me about it _

 

Two of my favorite dacs are 8397 and 8656. Also, try the 797 with 6234 buffers. 
 8620 is a good l/r for RS-1, currently running with 8599 buffers, 6234 dac.

 or stop right now and save yourself the cost of another D1 in opamps


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *recephasan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Two of my favorite dacs are 8397 and 8656. Also, try the 797 with 6234 buffers. 
 8620 is a good l/r for RS-1, currently running with 8599 buffers, 6234 dac.

 or stop right now and save yourself the cost of another D1 in opamps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My AD8620's and my OPA627's shipped to me yesterday, so we'll see how they sound. I don't have enough 6234 to try as buffers, but I am going to try the LMH6655 as buffers when my D1 comes back from iBasso.


----------



## recephasan

actually, right now I'm running my 797 with buffers bypassed for my e500
 and 8620 with 8599 buffers and 6234 dac for rs-1, to repeat.

 anyhow, the 6655 and the 6234 are nothing alike. I practically do not touch the 6655 or the 6643 anymore.

 the 6234s are cheap, say 3-4 USD a piece. then add the adapter, so they run for 7-8 USD. not too bad, esp compared with what you and I paid for the OPA627, eh?


----------



## sum1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *recephasan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_or stop right now and save yourself the cost of another D1 in opamps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah i'm worried about wasting to much money so currently it looks like ad797 with buffers bypassed or the stock buffer seems like a cheap upgrade.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Well, once I tried the 8620 and 627 I was planning on being done, and the LMH6655 were the last buffers I was going to try - they arrived before I could try them in the D1 when it went back to iBasso service. I did find the LMH6643 worked well as buffers with the AD743, and HiFlight had liked the 6655 even more.

 I definitely have my top 2 choices of LR as the AD797 and AD743, and my top buffers as LMH6643 and AD8497. I also plan to put an LM6172 in the DAC and try that, as well as trying the LMH6643 in the DAC, so I might as well try an AD8397 there too.


----------



## recephasan

I had to do it...

 Having gotten sick of using opamps for buffers, trying to match one with the 
 other, and then going back and changing again, 

 I put a couple of BUF634s in. 

 Had to do a bit of soldering, but I'm listening now and they sound pretty good.
 I guess just as well as the OPA627 should, only less constricted.

 If there is interest, I might post some pix of my shoddy handiwork with a 
 diagram for pins, etc.

 For those curious, I'm running full bandwith


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *recephasan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For those curious, I'm running full bandwith_

 

Are you using any resistance at all? The LD Micro Tube doesn't but the 634's get hot and I don't think it is the best way to go because you could have a thermal problem with them.


----------



## recephasan

interesting. the unit's been off for 10mins now, but I'll check next time. 
 I was too lazy to pull out a 220 resistor, is all


----------



## recephasan

Nope, lucky for me (or us all) the BUF634 is not running hot at all in full bandwith mode. Thanks for the heads up, though. 

 Best buffer so far. RS-1 is faster than ever.

 Current setup for RS-1: DAC: AD8599 L/R: AD8620 Buffers: BUF634

 for E500 (2nd D1): DAC: AD8397 L/R: OPA627 Buffers: BUF634


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

That's funny because my AD8620 and OPA627 shipped to me the other day (from Hong Kong). I didn't think about BUF634 which I have no info at all about them, or what this "resistor" "full bandwidth" or heat issue is about. I saw somewhere on the web a while back that the Hornet uses BUF634, but don't know if it is true.


----------



## recephasan

buf634 has a pin used to set bw (MHz) at the expense of quiescent current. a resistor betw bw pin and V- determines the bw and corresponding mA. R=0 is full bw, but max quiescent current which is drain with no signal

 it is not pin compatible with, and therefore is not a drop-in replacement for the opamp buffers. I had to cut, solder, etc.
 the upside is that it is a buffer, which is a unity gain opamp, not on opamp running at unity gain

 I wonder if anyone makes adapter boards for this


----------



## PPkiller

recephasan, how many buf you used for 1 buffer drop in? i have considered useing buf634 before.. have figure out how to cut/solder it onto browndog previously.. but didn't try it cos i find it too costly to purchase 4 buf 634 and set of 5 dual to single browndogs just to have a listen..


----------



## recephasan

only one buf634 per socket.
 the opamp buffers are driven in both channels in parallel to double output but a 634 will provide more current than anything save AD8397s.
 so, two DIP8 buffers will do, and I only used two regular sockets, no browndogs.


----------



## PPkiller

let me guess.. u cut pin 1(leave a bit for soldering of resistor between 1 & 4), 8 & 5 and then bend ping 7 & 6 a note higher to replace 8 & 7 ?


----------



## PPkiller

2 buf634 + 2 dip sockets.. sounds cheaper now.. hmm...


----------



## recephasan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_let me guess.. u cut pin 1(leave a bit for soldering of resistor between 1 & 4), 8 & 5 and then bend ping 7 & 6 a note higher to replace 8 & 7 ?_

 

pretty much. xcept don't bother cutting 5. and cut 7 and 6 halfway, bend 7 up, stick bus wire into socket's 8 and 7, insert buf, bend wire in 7 and solder w/ pin 6, likewise for wire in 8 to pin 7 and voila!


----------



## recephasan

here is a crappy picture of my, of course, excellent handiwork


----------



## sum1

Anyone here using their D1 with Denon D2000? If so which opamp did u pick for that can?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sum1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone here using their D1 with Denon D2000? If so which opamp did u pick for that can?_

 

The AD743x2/AD8397 buffers/LTC6241HV DAC

 When I went to the HFI-780 stock, I had to switch the buffers to LMH6643 and it got smoother and less edgy. The AD797 was just a little over the top on the bass, and the 743 brightened up the D2000 a little while controlling the bass.

 My D1 should have shipped back to me today, and I've got AD8620 and OPA627 on the way too, so it will be a 4 way battle against the 797 and 743 then...

 I also have an LM6172 to try in the DAC. Has any one else tried that? I am trying to warm up the DAC only line-out to be closer to the HR Micro DAC.


----------



## PPkiller

i jus recall... Pin 7 is actually connected straight to pin 6 on the board... Think can skip cutting pin 6


----------



## PPkiller

are you able to check how hot it will be? Probly about 1 hr after power on...


----------



## recephasan

they were warmer than the l/r and dac opamps with my E500, but not hot to touch.

 and as for cutting pin 6.. Are you sure the negative input is shorted with the output on the buffer opamps? 
 Even if they were, it's poor practice to leave the pin. If anyone working under me did it, I'd tell them to go ahead and cut the pin anyway 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Over six years in the forum, and this is only my 500th post. Hahaha


----------



## recephasan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also have an LM6172 to try in the DAC. Has any one else tried that? I am trying to warm up the DAC only line-out to be closer to the HR Micro DAC._

 

Yes, and I was not impressed, but it does not mean it's not good, just that it does not stand out amongst the myriad of opamps I've accumulated for this purpose.

 My two favorite dacs du jour are 8599 and 8397 in the order I like them, again, today.


----------



## PPkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *recephasan* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_they were warmer than the l/r and dac opamps with my E500, but not hot to touch.

 and as for cutting pin 6.. Are you sure the negative input is shorted with the output on the buffer opamps? 
 Even if they were, it's poor practice to leave the pin. If anyone working under me did it, I'd tell them to go ahead and cut the pin anyway 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Over six years in the forum, and this is only my 500th post. Hahaha_

 

yup.. i have a photo to back up my claim...
 it's the underside of the buffer sockets... i circled pin 1 & 2 and pin 6 & 7..


----------



## recephasan

cool. and thx for the info. of course, unity gain.
 anyhow, not to dwell on it needlessly or anything, I'd still cut mine. otherwise there's a loop.

 nice picture


----------



## PPkiller

have you tried comparing lmh6655 against buf634?


----------



## jamato8

I don't have the number but there is supposed to be a new version of the buf634 that is better sounding. It was mentioned to me by a manufacture.


----------



## PPkiller

maybe that's why i can't find a buf634 in singapore.. farnell shows out of stock for quite some time..


----------



## jamato8

They have been hard to get for about 2 years now. I am not sure what the total problem is. I would think demand must be down and so goes the supply.


----------



## recephasan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_have you tried comparing lmh6655 against buf634?_

 

lmh6655, in comparison with buf634, does not even compare. colored and not half as full in bass. 
 my subjective comparison, sure, but hey, one IS a buffer and the other an opamp


----------



## PPkiller

looks like buf634 is out of reach... i ordered some lme49600 to try... it's suppose to be drop-in replacement for buf634...

 waiting for delivery..


----------



## recephasan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ i ordered some lme49600 to try... it's suppose to be drop-in replacement for buf634..._

 

you do know the packaging is different and that you'll have to do some work to fit it, right?


----------



## PPkiller

yup.. i will post a pic when i'm done working on it


----------



## PPkiller




----------



## PPkiller

pretty tough doing the rework for 49600 to fit into the dip socket... i have to shear off the protruding top of the 49600 in order for it not to touch the other buffer....

 preliminary comparison against lm6655, with ad743 as L/R, ht6241 as LPF for dac and 595 for my listening gear...

 the first thing i notice is the treble energy is reduced as compared to 6655... the sound seems more dynamic, open up and with energy. 

 i pop back 6655 and confirm my findings. 6655 does has more treble energy. 6655 can give more treble impact to my ear.. but it seems the mid to lower section suffer from a closer soundstage/lower quality.. 

 49600 makes the sound more enjoyable, pleasant, and i can feel the mood of the song better then 6655...


 the more i listen, the more i like 49600..

 hmm.. i can hear some details which i never notice before... or maybe it's just me..


----------



## FZR1k

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PPkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_pretty tough doing the rework for 49600 to fit into the dip socket... i have to shear off the protruding top of the 49600 in order for it not to touch the other buffer...._

 

It's nice information.


----------



## jamato8

So how is the D1 sounding with these changes?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Sadly, I had to give up my D1 today, to persuade someone to part with their SRD-7 Pro STAX adapter. I needed the SRD-7 more than I needed the D1.

 I'll probably end up buying another someday, especially if using HR Micro DAC into my Predator starts to feel too big and becomes a PITA to use transportable. The D1 is just such a great product, I know I will miss it.


----------



## PPkiller

dun really have a proper head gear now to have a proper listening to the difference... base on my memory with my *sold* hd595,


 lme49600 will work well for pple that require impact, body, slightly darker sound with very very good dynamic that can get me tapping to the music...

 while lmh6655 gives very good treble with treble impact/punch to it...

 so far i have done another pair for a fellow head-fier... he mention the soundstage is smaller then lmh6655 with his akg601.. i'll be meeting him in a few weeks time to have a listen to his D1 and do some comparison too... hopefully i can get a clearer picture of how the soundstage sound.. btw.. national is out of samples at the moment..


----------



## Packgrog

*sigh* Apparently the D1 has been discontinued. Not sure if that's been mentioned elsewhere in this or other iBasso threads.

 Supposedly the have a small supply left. Gonna try to get ahold of one while I can.


----------



## wolfen68

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*sigh* Apparently the D1 has been discontinued. Not sure if that's been mentioned elsewhere in this or other iBasso threads.

 Supposedly the have a small supply left. Gonna try to get ahold of one while I can._

 

My quest for the perfect portable "optical in" DAC just gets tougher and tougher.....

 I wonder if it will be replaced with a new offering?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wolfen68* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My quest for the perfect portable "optical in" DAC just gets tougher and tougher.....

 I wonder if it will be replaced with a new offering?_

 

I think my HR Micro DAC/Micro Stack is slightly better than the D1 (but for twice the money). In my Mini Review portable USB/DAC amps, it only came out slightly ahead of the D1 with AD797/LMH6643/LT6234.

 I did love the D1 enough that the first time I sold it to Blutarsky I bought it back a week later. I'd like to hear the new HR Micro Portable with DAC (single box now), but my understanding is it is a very slight downgrade to the 2006 Micro Stack Portable (separate portable DAC and amp). I really have to resist trying to snag another D1 before they are gone now, but since I got my iMod I don't use portable optical devices much anymore.


----------



## Packgrog

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think my HR Micro DAC/Micro Stack is slightly better than the D1 (but for twice the money). In my Mini Review portable USB/DAC amps, it only came out slightly ahead of the D1 with AD797/LMH6643/LT6234.

 I did love the D1 enough that the first time I sold it to Blutarsky I bought it back a week later. I'd like to hear the new HR Micro Portable with DAC (single box now), but my understanding is it is a very slight downgrade to the 2006 Micro Stack Portable (separate portable DAC and amp). I really have to resist trying to snag another D1 before they are gone now, but since I got my iMod I don't use portable optical devices much anymore._

 

Ah, that brings up an interesting question that I simply haven't seen answered elsewhere: how do the iMod, Micro DAC, and D1 compare as sources with the same amp? Given the price points, I think it's a pretty valid question. And stays on topic here if a particular arrangement of opamps makes the D1 similar to or better than any of these other options. Thoughts?

 If I do manage to get ahold of a D1 (if they ever get back to me on how to order one from them), I'll definitely be doing some comparisons with my Monica 2 DAC. Heheh.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, that brings up an interesting question that I simply haven't seen answered elsewhere: how do the iMod, Micro DAC, and D1 compare as sources with the same amp? Given the price points, I think it's a pretty valid question. And stays on topic here if a particular arrangement of opamps makes the D1 similar to or better than any of these other options. Thoughts?

 If I do manage to get ahold of a D1 (if they ever get back to me on how to order one from them), I'll definitely be doing some comparisons with my Monica 2 DAC. Heheh._

 

I tend to think my iMod with the portable V-cap dock is better than optical out from iRiver into Micro Dac or D1, but with a lesser iMod dock with small BlackGates they are closer to equals. There is something magical about an iMod with V-caps that I can't put my finger on.


----------



## Packgrog

So the approx $1000 imod & v-cap dock is better than the $300 Micro DAC and $250-or-so D1? I should hope so! 

 Good to know that the D1 line out is approximately on par with the pre-2007 Micro DAC (or so you seem to imply).


----------



## wolfen68

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the approx $1000 imod & v-cap dock is better than the $300 Micro DAC and $250-or-so D1? I should hope so! 

 Good to know that the D1 line out is approximately on par with the pre-2007 Micro DAC (or so you seem to imply)._

 


 This has been oft discussed in these forums, but IMO it is impossible for the imod to definitively sound better than an H1xx using an optical out to a DAC. What DAC you use creates limitless options/sound signatures with the H1xx acting as a pure transport. 

 As far as comparing the imod to certain available combinations, such as an H1xx with the 2006 MicroDAC, a couple members here have done that and it sounds like it's pretty close and may depend on your sound preference. I have to admit, that alone speaks well of the imod. 

 From the comparisons I've seen, the D1's DAC cannot compete with either of those options. 

 I own a 2006 MicroDAC and it's the best thing I've heard to feed an amp (but it's hard to carry around). However, I have not heard an imod. I would love to try one but I'm allergic to Apple's DRM and proprietary software nonsense. 

 Here's to hoping that someday a high end portable DAC comes out (such as a predator with optical). Any DAC better than what I got would raise my H1xx to a new level.


----------



## RC99

I hope this thread is an appropriate place for this question.

 Can the current stock D1 (or what is left of the current stock, apparently) compete in its DAC performance with entry-priced desktop units, specifically one such as the Zero DAC?

 I'm wondering if the D1 would be suitable in a home system doing DAC duty only, feeding an amp + speakers and eventually a tube headamp. Or is that asking too much of a small portable?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

People are getting my ranking mixed up, or misquoting. Let me be clearer.

 1. iMod with portable V-cap dock into Predator
 2. H140 optical to HR Micro DAC into Predator
 3. H140 optical to HR Micro DAC into HR Micro Amp
 4. H140 optical to iBasso D1 as DAC and amp (with rolled opamps)
 5. iMod with jumbo cryo silver x LOD into Predator
 6. iMod with jumbo cryo silver x LOD into HR Micro Amp
 7. iMod with jumbo cryo silver x LOD into D1 as amp only

 The V-cap dock makes that much of a difference in sound!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RC99* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope this thread is an appropriate place for this question.

 Can the current stock D1 (or what is left of the current stock, apparently) compete in its DAC performance with entry-priced desktop units, specifically one such as the Zero DAC?

 I'm wondering if the D1 would be suitable in a home system doing DAC duty only, feeding an amp + speakers and eventually a tube headamp. Or is that asking too much of a small portable?_

 

The D1 is very good, which is testimony to just how good the HR Micro DAC and iMod are to be a little above it. I used the D1 as my main DAC for 5 months before I upgraded to an Apogee mini-DAC at 4x the cost.

 The D1 is probably 90% of what the Micro DAC is, and might be even better if you can find the right opamps for the D1 DAC section to make it a little warmer in tonality. The Micro DAC with optical input is probably 90-95% of the iMod IF the iMod is using a V-cap dock, otherwise they are closer to equals.


----------



## wolfen68

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_People are getting my ranking mixed up, or misquoting. Let me be clearer.
_

 


 If you're referring to my recent post...I wasn't even thinking of any impressions you may have posted in this thread, but of comparisons made by other forum members in older (unrelated) threads.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wolfen68* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you're referring to my recent post...I wasn't even thinking of any impressions you may have posted in this thread, but of comparisons made by other forum members in older (unrelated) threads._

 

Packgrog was implying that I ranked the D1 and HR Micro DAC on the same level. _I was agreeing with you, that the HR Micro DAC is a little better than D1_. I did a review where the D1 came in right under the Micro DAC: See post #1 and #2 both: MINI-REVIEW of SEVEN USB DAC amps - RSA Predator, Headamp Pico, 2MOVE, iBasso D2 & D1, Headstage Lyrix, Headroom 2006 Micro - Page 19 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio

 Also, the iMod was $250 on top of my 5.5G ipod video, and the V-cap dock is $350, so adding the iPod itself and all cables it was about $1,000. but Packgrog compared that $1,000 to only $250-300 for Micro DAC or D1, and didn't include the source in that cost. It was closer to $600 for H140 plus Micro DAC and custom 4" optical cable.

 You were however skeptical ("impossible") of the iMod being as good as I said, and I wanted to make it clear that the V-caps vs BlackGates in the iMod dock make a huge difference in the sound quality, so I did a ranking to show where they sit, according to my ears. The ONLY way the iMod beats the HR Micro DAC is with the V-cap dock - it is like a night and day difference.


----------



## Packgrog

Ah, sorry, the only V-Cap Docks I was able to find pricing on were about $600 (the portable version no longer seems to be available). Thus why I estimated $1000.

 I also said that I got the impression that the D1 is "*approximately* on par" with the Micro DAC, which seems to fit with your latest post *[EDIT: Which makes sense given that they use the same CS4398 DAC chip]*. That the 2006 Micro DAC is a little better is not surprising, since they are around the same price, and the D1 can function as a stand-alone DAC/Amp unit, whereas the Micro DAC is purely a DAC that must be used with a separate amp. Part of the appeal of the D1 for me is that I COULD use it on it's own with my H120, and the fact that it's at least CLOSE to the quality of the Micro DAC (which I recall liking quite a lot when I tried it 2 years ago in NYC) is a pretty shining recommendation. That I can also use the D1 with my Tomahawk to potentially improve the amp section that much more when I'm desk-bound is even nicer!

 So, what you said makes sense, HeadphoneAddict. Thanks for the info!


----------



## Packgrog

BTW, I got the following back from iBasso:

  Quote:


 Thank you for your reply.
 We will still the development of the D1 replacement, but this project
 may take half year from now.
 If you are looking for a product having optical input, then please
 consider the D1.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio 
 

Good news! I think I still want a D1, though. Who knows what a new model will cost.


----------



## wolfen68

I understand HeadphoneAddict...thanks for the follow-up.

 Packgrog....is it me or does that email say that the D1 replacement may not offer optical in? 

 It seems to say if you want optical....than get it now while you can.


----------



## Packgrog

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wolfen68* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Packgrog....is it me or does that email that the D1 replacement may not offer optical in? 

 It seems to say if you want optical....than get it now while you can._

 

Well, I took it as meaning that they will have another one with optical in (ie: a true replacement for the D1, as the current D2 would otherwise be considered a replacement if you just wanted the USB DAC), but not for 6 months or so, so if you want one of the last few, you gotta hurry. Admittedly, English doesn't seem to be their strong point here, but that's alright.

 Just gotta clear the purchase with the wife before I pounce on this, then I have to sell off my Cowon A2 and Beyers to fund it. Heh.


----------



## RC99

Thanks for the info, Larry.


----------



## Packgrog

Ordered. Here's hoping it shows up in the next couple of weeks. Heh.


----------



## pomme de terre

Since the D1 isnt on the site, how did you order? Through email?

 Thanks


----------



## RC99

FWIW, I also received an email from service@ibasso.com saying they have a small stock of D1 remaining.


----------



## Packgrog

I emailed them, they said they had a small amount left. Then I needed to email them my address so they could calculate shipping, after which they gave me the total cost and paypal info.


----------



## pomme de terre

How much did it end up costing?


----------



## Packgrog

For me, $272 ($249 + $23 for shipping). Not bad considering the state of the US Dollar right now.

 Looking forward to it. Hope the international mail won't take too long. And hopefully it won't get hung up in processing like everything did while I still lived in New York and everything had to go through NYC. Bleah.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For me, $272 ($249 + $23 for shipping). Not bad considering the state of the US Dollar right now.

 Looking forward to it. Hope the international mail won't take too long. And hopefully it won't get hung up in processing like everything did while I still lived in New York and everything had to go through NYC. Bleah._

 

The shipping is really fast. I got a Boa in a little over a day.


----------



## fl00r

I ordered an Iriver H120 last week (to replace my broken X5).
 I currently use a Supermacro III V.6 as a portable amp.
 Question is: will it be worthwhile to get the D1?
 In other words, will it be an notable upgrade over the Xin only?

 Thanks,

 Ben


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fl00r* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I ordered an Iriver H120 last week (to replace my broken X5).
 I currently use a Supermacro III V.6 as a portable amp.
 Question is: will it be worthwhile to get the D1?
 In other words, will it be an notable upgrade over the Xin only?

 Thanks,

 Ben_

 

IMHO the answer is 'Yes'. The D1's DAC from the H120 optical is superior to the H120's lineout (which, although quite good, is not the absolute best out there).

 Whether you could raise the D1's amp performance to a level you'd like (to avoid carrying the supermacro as well) is probably more the challenge.

 Me, I tend to only use the D1's amp section (with rolled opamps) if something better (supermicro, SR-71) isn't available. The D1 is also too chunky for genuine portable use IMHO so I still use H140 lineout and a (more) portable amp for that but like to connect in the D1 DAC for bedtime listening.


----------



## fl00r

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMHO the answer is 'Yes'. The D1's DAC from the H120 optical is superior to the H120's lineout (which, although quite good, is not the absolute best out there).

 Whether you could raise the D1's amp performance to a level you'd like (to avoid carrying the supermacro as well) is probably more the challenge.

 Me, I tend to only use the D1's amp section (with rolled opamps) if something better (supermicro, SR-71) isn't available. The D1 is also too chunky for genuine portable use IMHO so I still use H140 lineout and a (more) portable amp for that but like to connect in the D1 DAC for bedtime listening._

 

Thanks!
 Portability isn't much of an issue for me since I'm always backpacked 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I will end up with H120 > D1 > SuperMacro if i can get my hands on a D1.
 I will shoot them an email.


----------



## fl00r

Got it coming! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Is there a consensus on which opamps (both amp and dac) work best with H120 and ER4p?
 Also, are there _short_ toslink cables to interconnect H120 and D1?

 Thanks,

 Ben


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fl00r* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got it coming! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Is there a consensus on which opamps (both amp and dac) work best with H120 and ER4p?
 Also, are there short toslink cables to interconnect H120 and D1?

 Thanks,

 Ben_

 

I've started with

 DAC opamp - LT6241
 LR Opamp - THS4032
 Buffer Opamp - LMH6655

 Used with Livewires and still experimenting with ER4p. Consensus might depend on each listener's preferred sound. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I use a Custom System Concepts toslink-to-mini cable.

 Have fun.


----------



## fl00r

According to the email I just got from iBasso I will have the last one:

  Quote:


 Hello, Ben,
 Thank you for your payment.
 We only reserve several D1 for future replacement. We are not going to
 sell the D1 again. Your D1 is the last one we sell.
 We will send your D1 tonight.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio


----------



## fl00r

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use a Custom System Concepts toslink-to-mini cable.

 Have fun._

 

Do you have a link to the store?

 Thanks.

 Never mind, found it.

 What length should I have?


----------



## Packgrog

Heh, guess fl00r and I have the last ones being sold. Here's hoping that whatever they replace it with is similar enough to be worthwhile.

 Mine arrived yesterday. I'll reserve any detailed impressions until it's had time to burn in a bit (recommendations for time, anyone?). Initial impressions, besides being a bit surprised at just how BIG it is (my H120 could probably fit inside the case easily), is that it's very nicely detailed, with nicely deep bass. Coming from a Monica 2 -> Tomahawk combo, though, it's a REALLY weird experience. The D1 definitely sounds more "digital". This may simply be that it's more revealing as an oversampling DAC as opposed to Monica being a Non-oversampling DAC. Monica is a **LOT** more forgiving. The D1 just shows off all the flaws that Monica would smooth out. And yes, I've tested to make sure that the D1 can handle 24-bit/96kHz, and it can. Unfortunately the only files I have that fit that at the moment are a needle-drop of Led Zeppelin IV, and the pops and clicks are showing through very clearly. I'll try to get some jazz original master downloads for further testing, though most music I'm familiar with isn't available in this format.

 I'm a bit disappointed that I can't run both the headphone jack and line out simultaneously, as the headphone jack shuts off the moment I plug something into the line-out port (while running the input from the DAC). I was hoping I'd be able to do so in order to compare the D1's amp section with my Tomahawk. There's definitely quite a bit of difference, but it's difficult to quantify when it takes about 10 seconds to get things switched.

 More impressions to come. Definitely liking it, but I doubt it'll ever replace my Monica for nice relaxing musical enjoyment.


----------



## Packgrog

Question regarding opamp rolling: would it be possible for someone to compile a table of which combinations provide which benefits? ie: which ones are more detailed, or analytical, or have a more realistic soundstage, or are more relaxed, etc. There's a lot of info in this thread, but while certain people obviously prefer different combinations from others, it's not entirely clear what the sound differences are between the combinations in comparison to each other without doing a lot of digging and interpretation. Sure, I'd love to do some experiments of my own, but it would be nice to have a couple starting points to know which combinations may be more likely to fit MY preferences based on other people's experiences.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Look at the first post of the thread.


----------



## Packgrog

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Look at the first post of the thread._

 

Yeah, did that, and it's actually part of the reason for my question, since it's kind of all over the place even just in that first post.  Most of the reposted posts on that post (say yay for repetitive repetition!) mention a few people's favorites, but don't always mention how the combinations compare to each other in their effects. There's SOME mention of this, but isolated.

 *shrug* Just thought a little more consolidation of the data might be helpful. But then, since we seem to have gotten the last ones, there may not be much point in the extra effort. Also thought I'd clarify that I wasn't asking out of mere laziness.


----------



## HiFlight

It is about impossible to do what you ask, as much of the listening experience is subjective. Each individual hears differently due to physical differences in the anatomy of the ear. Also, what is upstream makes a huge difference. Different bitrates also influence the resultant sound, as do differing types of music. Electrical properties such as differing values of capacitance and inductance in sources, amplifiers and cabling also have an effect on what you will actually hear from your particular setup. 

 Some consider the "best" sound to be colored as are the sounds of all the famous concert halls, others consider the "best" sound to be absolutely flat without the colorations of a live hall. 

 Keep in mind that changes in opamps do NOT make night and day differences. Changes are subtle and often much of the perceived changes are a result of psychoacoustic influences. 

 My best suggestion is to get some of the opamps that are mentioned in many of the posts, and try some different combinations. 

 I am sure that you will find that your preferences will often differ from the "favorites" mentioned by others.


----------



## fl00r

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is about impossible to do what you ask, as much of the listening experience is subjective. Each individual hears differently due to physical differences in the anatomy of the ear. Also, what is upstream makes a huge difference. Different bitrates also influence the resultant sound, as do differing types of music. Electrical properties such as differing values of capacitance and inductance in sources, amplifiers and cabling also have an effect on what you will actually hear from your particular setup. 

 Some consider the "best" sound to be colored as are the sounds of all the famous concert halls, others consider the "best" sound to be absolutely flat without the colorations of a live hall. 

 Keep in mind that changes in opamps do NOT make night and day differences. Changes are subtle and often much of the perceived changes are a result of psychoacoustic influences. 

 My best suggestion is to get some of the opamps that are mentioned in many of the posts, and try some different combinations. 

 I am sure that you will find that your preferences will often differ from the "favorites" mentioned by others._

 

So true, I'm afraid...
 Let me put it in another way: what is _your_ favorite combination of opamps for the D1?

  Quote:


 Keep in mind that changes in opamps do NOT make night and day differences. Changes are subtle and often much of the perceived changes are a result of psychoacoustic influences. 
 

I am glad you say that because I often felt like a fool when I didn't hear the 'huge sound differences' people claim to hear when rolling opamps. I almost began to think that there was something wrong with my ears


----------



## Packgrog

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...Some consider the "best" sound..._

 

This alone tells me that either you misinterpreted what I was asking, or I simply wasn't clear. I wasn't asking for "which is the best", since I know that's completely subjective. I was simply wondering if it was feasible to come up with a table of combinations with some qualitative descriptions of how they effected the sound. Probably more trouble than it's worth, I guess, and already discussed more than I'd intended. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's worth mentioning, though, that I'm enjoying it quite a lot as it is with the stock opamps (I'm assuming it's the V2 set, as I don't have a hex wrench on me to pop it open and have a look). I'd even dare say that I'm liking the amp section maybe even a little better than using it's line out to the Tomahawk. The Tomahawk is more in-your-face, but the D1 has more air to the soundstage. Very nice!

 NP: Roger Waters - Late Home Tonight Part 1


----------



## tracyrick

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question regarding opamp rolling: would it be possible for someone to compile a table of which combinations provide which benefits? ie: which ones are more detailed, or analytical, or have a more realistic soundstage, or are more relaxed, etc. There's a lot of info in this thread, but while certain people obviously prefer different combinations from others, it's not entirely clear what the sound differences are between the combinations in comparison to each other without doing a lot of digging and interpretation. Sure, I'd love to do some experiments of my own, but it would be nice to have a couple starting points to know which combinations may be more likely to fit MY preferences based on other people's experiences. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

If you want a meaty, bass-rich sound try out AD797 and bypassed buffers. For me this has a clear and significant improvement over the thin, high note empahsis stock sound.


----------



## Packgrog

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tracyrick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you want a meaty, bass-rich sound try out AD797 and bypassed buffers. For me this has a clear and significant improvement over the thin, high note empahsis stock sound._

 

Thank you, this is a perfect example of what I was saying. This is great for you, and would probably be terrible for me (I use Future Sonics Atrio m5 IEMs which have a lot of natural low-end as it is, and already have PLENTY of bass impact with the stock opamps). This would probably be of great use to someone using AKG's or Etymotics, though, which have really weak bass in comparison (IMO).

 Thanks again for the info!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank you, this is a perfect example of what I was saying. This is great for you, and would probably be terrible for me (I use Future Sonics Atrio m5 IEMs which have a lot of natural low-end as it is, and already have PLENTY of bass impact with the stock opamps). This would probably be of great use to someone using AKG's or Etymotics, though, which have really weak bass in comparison (IMO).

 Thanks again for the info!_

 

Part of the problem is that several of us have posted our findings over the past 8 months, and it would be hard to go back and compile all the findings into one post. And, then that post becomes lost to the middle of the thread a few weeks later.

 My D1 started out with AD823 main, NE5532 buffer, AD8616 DAC when stock (V1).

 I found the OPA2111 main, AD8397 buffer, AD8656 was one combo I kept for a while (2 months). I found it to be smoother, more refined, and presented a wide deep soundstage. It did not lack in bass, mids or treble.

 But, then I switched to the AD797 main, with LT6234 DAC (no chg to buffer) on 11/5/07 and found it to be more powerful everywhere (but esp in the bass), more intimate and warmer, without sacrificing highs. I kept these opamps for almost 4 months. This was great with everything, especially Grado RS-2 and HF-1 the most, and HD600.

 Then in Feb I switched to the AD743 main, LMH6643 buffer, LTC6241 DAC because the other setup was too bassy and sibilant with my new Ultrasone HFI-780 (a fault of the headphones, not the amp). This still has great bass without being too much, still retained a degree of intimacy vs the OPA2111 (more distant), but the highs are smoother and less edgy with the Ultrasones than stock or with AD797. Grados and Denon D2000 also excel with this combo. This also worked well with everything else, but also sounded much better with the HFI-780 and Edition 9 than before.

 Hope this helps.


----------



## Packgrog

What?

 I had my D1 plugged in overnight while playing from my H120 to let it burn in. I even had my Beyerdynamic DT250-80 plugged in to make sure sound was coming out. It was running just fine when I shut the H120 off, followed by the D1, followed by unplugging it. When I tried plugging it all back together moments later in my car, I got nothing.

 Now the DAC section doesn't work. Period. Neither USB nor TOSLINK are providing any sound. The amp section still works from the line-in, but when I plug in either USB or TOSLINK and turn on the power, I hear a loud pop, but no music.

 Any clue, anyone? This is rather distressing to have happen after just getting the thing. Is it something as simple as resetting something? This ever happen to anyone else?

 -Packgrog


----------



## jamato8

Sorry to read this. It sounds like the relay isn't working right. I would email iBasso unless someone else has had this problem and there is a simple cure.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What?

 I had my D1 plugged in overnight while playing from my H120 to let it burn in. I even had my Beyerdynamic DT250-80 plugged in to make sure sound was coming out. It was running just fine when I shut the H120 off, followed by the D1, followed by unplugging it. When I tried plugging it all back together moments later in my car, I got nothing.

 Now the DAC section doesn't work. Period. Neither USB nor TOSLINK are providing any sound. The amp section still works from the line-in, but when I plug in either USB or TOSLINK and turn on the power, I hear a loud pop, but no music.

 Any clue, anyone? This is rather distressing to have happen after just getting the thing. Is it something as simple as resetting something? This ever happen to anyone else?

 -Packgrog_

 

2 other things to check. My apologies if you have already done these.

 1. Ensure the DAC opamp is seated absolutely. Even a slightly loose opamp can cause this.
 2. Ensure before turning the iBasso on that it is definitely receiving an optical signal into the optical socket and that you have a 3.5mm plug in the 'Aux In/Out' socket. (This is to ensure the relay is finding the right configuration)

 Assuming all of this is in place then I concur with jamato8 regarding the relay.


----------



## Packgrog

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2 other things to check. My apologies if you have already done these.

 1. Ensure the DAC opamp is seated absolutely. Even a slightly loose opamp can cause this.
 2. Ensure before turning the iBasso on that it is definitely receiving an optical signal into the optical socket and that you have a 3.5mm plug in the 'Aux In/Out' socket. (This is to ensure the relay is finding the right configuration)

 Assuming all of this is in place then I concur with jamato8 regarding the relay._

 

DAC opamp was basically glued down. Almost impossible to move. Didn't remove it all the way once I realized there was glue-like stuff holding it down. Definitely NOT loose. Had been hoping that might have been the case. I'm assuming that the DAC opamp is the LT6241 (this is definitely a V2, the others were LT1364, and a double LMH66). Again, amp works beautifully, acn actually sounds better with my Atrio than my Tomahawk does.

 Pretty sure it's been getting proper signal. Tried both optical and usb. Optical into my other DAC from the same source worked just fine, and THAT DAC is only 16-bit.

 Gonna bring it home and see if plugging it back into the wall-wart might somehow reset something. Doubtful. *sigh* Very frustrating.

 Hopefully iBasso will get back to me quickly. Obviously they're not responding right now, thanks to the time difference. I'm dreading having to pay the shipping cost again.


----------



## Packgrog

*sigh* Yeah, gotta send it back. iBasso's response was little more than "did you turn the power off and back on again? If still nothing, send to XXX". This is very disappointing. I don't know if a burned-out DAC opamp would cause this, in which case I could just replace the opamp, but it seems more likely that something else is at fault. Bleah. Shipping this thing is expensive. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's doubly the pity, as the sound was wonderful! The DAC itself was extremely revealing (sometimes annoyingly so, when the recording was poor), and the amp section, frankly, puts the sound of my Tomahawk to shame. My Monica 2 DAC fed into the D1's amp was gorgeous.

 Gonna try to ship this back out today. Hopefully they can either fix or replace it. This one was worth keeping.


----------



## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*sigh* Yeah, gotta send it back. iBasso's response was little more than "did you turn the power off and back on again? If still nothing, send to XXX". This is very disappointing. I don't know if a burned-out DAC opamp would cause this, in which case I could just replace the opamp, but it seems more likely that something else is at fault. Bleah. Shipping this thing is expensive. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's doubly the pity, as the sound was wonderful! The DAC itself was extremely revealing (sometimes annoyingly so, when the recording was poor), and the amp section, frankly, puts the sound of my Tomahawk to shame. My Monica 2 DAC fed into the D1's amp was gorgeous.

 Gonna try to ship this back out today. Hopefully they can either fix or replace it. This one was worth keeping._

 

Sorry to hear that. Though at least you know the quality of the restored product you'll get back.

 Although I concur that, with rolled opamps, it betters the Toma (I assume your Toma is fully burned in @ 800+ hours), I'm intrigued to hear you describe the amp section so highly (even with the Monica DAC feed). What amp section opamp combo are you using and what headphones for that "gorgeous" listening?


----------



## Packgrog

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry to hear that. Though at least you know the quality of the restored product you'll get back.

 Although I concur that, with rolled opamps, it betters the Toma (I assume your Toma is fully burned in @ 800+ hours), I'm intrigued to hear you describe the amp section so highly (even with the Monica DAC feed). What amp section opamp combo are you using and what headphones for that "gorgeous" listening?_

 

It had the V2 stock opamps. The only earphones I really ever use anymore are the Future Sonics Atrio m5.

 This is important, though. With other headphones, the D1 might sound bright. Future Sonics IEMs seems to synergize well with clean, even analytical sources. My Cowon A2 (which I plan on selling if I can fix the headphone jack) is a good example of this. It's tighter and brighter than my Monica->Tomahawk combo, but it matches well with the Future Sonics sound, which tends to provide powerful, natural bass and slightly smoothed out highs (though still fairly detailed without being sibilant like Shures or Etys seem to be). Now, the Tomahawk is very nice, but with the Atrio it sounds just a little bass heavy and more in-your-face than the D1. The D1's amp, with the V2 stock opamps, just seems more detailed, airy, and less aggressive. It reminds me a little bit of the Pico in that regard, which also paired well with my Atrio, but seemed like it might be hard on the highs and light on the bass for many other 'phones. Probably wouldn't stand up to the beauty of the iQube, but is plenty impressive for being half the price *AND* including a full-featured DAC!

 The DAC comparison is more obviously different. The Monica 2 is a 16-bit NOS DAC, whereas the D1 is a 24-bit oversampling DAC. A 24bit 96kHz master recording I downloaded worked perfectly with the D1 through ASIO via the toslink output from my HP DV9000 laptop (only handles 16-bit/48kHz via USB, though). This will not work with Monica without downsampling. I've tried it. The D1's DAC is very, very accurate, which is great when you can give your music your full attention, but is very distracting if you just want to sit back and enjoy it. The Monica is better suited for relaxed listening. I was surprised by how detailed the Monica still was when paired with the D1's amp (try Pink Floyd's The Final Cut for example), but it's still a more relaxed, subtle experience, as opposed to the stark placement of everything you get with the D1's DAC. It's a really fun difference to play with depending on the music.

 So while I think (if I can get a replacement/repair on the D1) I'll only use the Tomahawk when I need a lot more portability, I definitely see myself switching between the Monica and D1 DAC sections using the D1's amp regularly as the mood takes me. The D1 is definitely a more refined, detailed amp. The Tomahawk's just WAY smaller, lasts forever, and is apparently quite a bit sturdier. Heh.

 Man I hope I can get the D1 back and working.


----------



## webbie64

Thanks for the detailed reply, Packgrog.

 You remind me of myself, checking all the options and synergies out, and writing it all up. LOL.

 Makes me want to redouble my efforts to repair my own m5s, though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (been Livewires and ER4P only in recent times - which will tell you I'm more on that 'analytical' sound side too). At least when I get the m5s up and running again I'll know what'll synergise well with them.


----------



## PPkiller

with about a hundred plus hours burn-in for the lme49600... lme49600 is definitely clearer sounding as compared to 6655.. besides being clearer, it empower the different elements in the music to sound full, bodied, just like the music went through some sort of power booster.. 

 all those observation is through my new hd650.... man.. i miss the micro details which my sold 595 gave me... will a cable change improve the details?


----------



## jamato8

I have read that a better cable can improve the detail of the 650 and a slight veil that can be there for some, is raised.


----------



## Packgrog

Update from iBasso: the DAC chip in my D1 was dead. They replaced it, and will be shipping it back sometime today after further testing. Yay! Looking forward to getting it back. Here's hoping that it won't somehow get friend again from simple usage. Heh.


----------



## Original

Hey guys i'm new to this forum. I just bought a Ibasso D1 version 2 but i've met with some problems, would greatly appreciate if fellow D1 owners can help me out. 

 If i'm not wrong the D1 uses the DA receiver chip CS8416 which supports 196Khz sampling rate for optical/coax input. I've tried this with my mobo coax out and ps3 at sampling rates 196Khz and 176Khz respectively. Both of which there is extreme noise output from the D1 headphone out. I know my mobo and ps3 works fine because it works with my friend's dac/amp with the same settings.

 Is this a problem with the dac chip? Or does it lie with the design of the dac/amp circuitry itself? Has anyone else tried to use high sampling rates to input into the D1 via optical or coax?


----------



## nv88

I hoping someone can help me again too. I want to change the opamps in my D1, but have gotten stuck and discouraged. 

 I've replaced the AD823 with an OPA211. I've purchased a couple of AD8397 and AD8656 and brown dogs, months ago. But local friends that have done other soldering work for me don't want to touch them.

 I want to use the D1 from my computer (Foobar via USB) and from an iRiver H120 via Optical. I like detail. I would also like a more extended and tighter/ punchier bass. Not more bass, but deeper and better defined. A more realistic sound to voices and instruments such as strings would also be nice.

 I would like some that have tried lots of combinations (particularly folks like Jamato, MrArroyo, HeadphoneAddict, HiFlight...) for their suggestions. If the suggested opamps require solding, I'd like to know who here might be able to provide that service for a reasonable price. (I'm also looking for an inexpensive short mini to mini if that could be the same person.)


----------



## breakfastchef

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nv88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I'd like to know who here might be able to provide that service for a reasonable price._

 

PM HiFlight. He's the man!


----------



## nv88

Thanks I sent him a PM. 

 I'm still interested in people's suggestions on Opamps?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nv88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hoping someone can help me again too. I want to change the opamps in my D1, but have gotten stuck and discouraged. 

 I've replaced the AD823 with an OPA211. I've purchased a couple of AD8397 and AD8656 and brown dogs, months ago. But local friends that have done other soldering work for me don't want to touch them.

 I want to use the D1 from my computer (Foobar via USB) and from an iRiver H120 via Optical. I like detail. I would also like a more extended and tighter/ punchier bass. Not more bass, but deeper and better defined. A more realistic sound to voices and instruments such as strings would also be nice.

 I would like some that have tried lots of combinations (particularly folks like Jamato, MrArroyo, HeadphoneAddict, HiFlight...) for their suggestions. If the suggested opamps require solding, I'd like to know who here might be able to provide that service for a reasonable price. (I'm also looking for an inexpensive short mini to mini if that could be the same person.)_

 

HiFlight has been of great help to people needing good sounding opamps and soldering them to the adapters as needed. He has a lot of listening experience to these combinations.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nv88* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hoping someone can help me again too. I want to change the opamps in my D1, but have gotten stuck and discouraged. 

 I've replaced the AD823 with an OPA211. I've purchased a couple of AD8397 and AD8656 and brown dogs, months ago. But local friends that have done other soldering work for me don't want to touch them.

 I want to use the D1 from my computer (Foobar via USB) and from an iRiver H120 via Optical. I like detail. I would also like a more extended and tighter/ punchier bass. Not more bass, but deeper and better defined. A more realistic sound to voices and instruments such as strings would also be nice.

 I would like some that have tried lots of combinations (particularly folks like Jamato, MrArroyo, HeadphoneAddict, HiFlight...) for their suggestions. If the suggested opamps require solding, I'd like to know who here might be able to provide that service for a reasonable price. (I'm also looking for an inexpensive short mini to mini if that could be the same person.)_

 

My Favorites for main amp were the AD743 closely followed by the AD797 (the OPA2111 was not as good).
 My favorites for buffers were the LMH6643 followed closely by the AD8397.
 My Favorites for the DAC were the LT6234 followed closely by the LTC6241.

 Any combination of those yielded good results - the only combo I didn't try was the AD743 with AD8397 buffers - I tried the AD797 with both of the recommended buffers and both of the recommended DAC chips above.


----------



## Packgrog

Finally got my D1 back (Apparently UPS thinks that Alaska is a good stop-over point between Kentucky and North Carolina, What?). Seems to be working just fine now. Currently works just fine with 24-bit/96kHz and 16/44.1 files. Hopefully it will continue to do so.

 They forgot to ship the leather case though. Doh! Wouldn't mind having that back just as an extra layer of cushioning for it. Oh well.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finally got my D1 back (Apparently UPS thinks that Alaska is a good stop-over point between Kentucky and North Carolina, What?). Seems to be working just fine now. Currently works just fine with 24-bit/96kHz and 16/44.1 files. Hopefully it will continue to do so.

 They forgot to ship the leather case though. Doh! Wouldn't mind having that back just as an extra layer of cushioning for it. Oh well._

 

Just ask them to ship it back by regular mail. If I find mine you can have it as I really don't care for it much.


----------



## Packgrog

Yeah, it's not a huge deal with the cover, but until I can find a decent carrying case for it, I'd like to have SOMETHING to keep the case from getting scratched/dirty.


----------



## breakfastchef

When I connect my D1 as a DAC to my desktop PC via USB, it works fine. When I connect the D1 to my laptop via USB, music plays through the computer speakers, not through the D1. I am puzzled. Any suggestions as to what I should be looking for to correct this deficiency?


----------



## Packgrog

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *breakfastchef* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When I connect my D1 as a DAC to my desktop PC via USB, it works fine. When I connect the D1 to my laptop via USB, music plays through the computer speakers, not through the D1. I am puzzled. Any suggestions as to what I should be looking for to correct this deficiency?_

 

Select Start -> Control Panel -> Sounds and Audio Devices. On the Audio tab, chose the USB Audio device as your Sound playback Default device. That should do it.

 This is, of course, assuming you're running XP. Different OS may be slightly different.


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## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Finally got my D1 back (Apparently UPS thinks that Alaska is a good stop-over point between Kentucky and North Carolina, What?). Seems to be working just fine now. Currently works just fine with 24-bit/96kHz and 16/44.1 files. Hopefully it will continue to do so.

 They forgot to ship the leather case though. Doh! Wouldn't mind having that back just as an extra layer of cushioning for it. Oh well._

 

You got lucky. In my case they forgot the metal rear panel, and it took me 6 weeks to get a replacement, with my D1 ***** hanging out in the air. 

 To give them a little credit I must have confused them. I sent a naked defective P2 PCB back at the same time that I sent the D1, so they accidentally logged into their books that both D1 and P2 came with just a naked PCB. But, instead of sending the D1 back with no case at all (like their log book said they should), they thought they were doing me a favor by including a free "extra" case to protect it on the return trip. They just weren't going to also send an "extra" free rear panel for the return trip, having convinced themselves that they did me a favor by sending it back with a second case that I shouldn't have needed. It took 2 weeks to convince them to ship me a rear panel because I didn't have the missing parts, and then when it was lost after 4 weeks they did agree to send another via UPS (instead of airmail). So, I am sure they think I have two cases and three rear panels now, instead of the one.

 So, I will almost bet money (but not 100% sure) that when you write to them about the missing leather sleeve that they will say you never sent one, and then argue with you about how you are wrong. Unless, they learned a lesson from me when I told them, "The customer is always right".


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## breakfastchef

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Select Start -> Control Panel -> Sounds and Audio Devices. On the Audio tab, chose the USB Audio device as your Sound playback Default device. That should do it.

 This is, of course, assuming you're running XP. Different OS may be slightly different._

 

Yes, that worked, but I still hear the Windows default sounds. On my desktop PC, the USB/DAC function of the D1 hijacks the audio feed, but does not pass on the Windows sounds. I an certain there is something very queer with my laptop. Would not be the first time, though.


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## Packgrog

Dunno what's different about your setups there, honestly. I would recommend turning off Windows sounds anyway, as they're just annoying.

 We're venturing into being off-topic here, but what are you using for playback? I would recommend Foobar2000 and ASIO4ALL, which has it's own set of setup steps. There, again, you need to explicitly select USB Audio as your output, but it guarantees bit-perfect output. Well worth it, honestly. Windows really muddies up music otherwise.

 Back to the D1, I've tried out a couple 24b/96k files, including a needle-drop of the Classic Recordings needle-drop of Led Zeppelin IV, and boy is it lovely! I must say up-front that my laptop has a 24-bit sound card with toslink output, though, so I *AM* getting full resolution. The D1 definitely shows off all the annoying pops and clicks of the original vinyl source, but the increased resolution of the 24/96 digital recording is quite dynamic! Very impressive! So despite the noise, it's easily the best version of this album I've heard yet! Nice!

 I'm still quite pleased with how deep the bass goes with the v2 stock D1. Not boomy or bloated at all, just DEEP. Wonderful synergy with my Atrio. Definitely shows off the limitations of poorly mastered/recorded source material, but well-recorded material (MFSL albums especially) REALLY shine here. Good stuff.


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## sum1

Just want to let you guys know that i've rolled my D1 with the help of Hiflight.

 I find the v2 stock opamps to be distant so i asked for a combo that would bring the vocals more upfront and fuller.

 And this is the combo that Hiflight gave me:
 DAC: LT6234
 Buffer:LMH6655
 L/R:OPA228

 And the result is exactly that. Vocals are more upfront and sounded more full when compared to the stock. I dont think this would suit everyone as this can be considered veiled and not neutral but give it a try if you wanted a more musical sounding D1.


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## Packgrog

The iriver H120 doesn't *quite* have enough horsepower to handle 24/96 FLAC files, unfortunately. Static bursts come through as the H120 tries to re-buffer. Dunno if it's a factor of drive speed, memory buffer size, or CPU limitations, but it just can't handle full high-res files. It's impressive that it was able to play any of it at all, but it can't quite decode at real-time. Ah well, not a big deal, but a fun test nonetheless!


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## jamato8

The H120 does pair nice with the D1 though. As a portable with optical capabilities it adds another high quality dimension to listening.


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## fl00r

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The H120 does pair nice with the D1 though. As a portable with optical capabilities it adds another high quality dimension to listening._

 

^ So true!

 I've been using the 'portable' setup in my sig and could not be happier.
 The H120 has everything that I wish in a dap.
 I especially love the fact that it doesn't have the frills of today's daps but does have an optical interface 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ben


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## Packgrog

Well, the H120 has many of the frills of modern DAPs (plus many more!) if you install Rockbox. Just doesn't have the wholly-unnecessary color screen. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And yes, it does indeed pair quite well with the D1. As I said, it doesn't have the horsepower to play back 24-bit/96kHz FLAC files at real-time. But it DID play them, and thus lower bitrates may still be quite possible. I imagine resampling to 16/48 would work great (don't forget to dither!!!).

 I'm currently using the H120=>D1 combo in my car through a Sony tape adapter I managed to fix. I'm still surprised at how much better it sounds than CDs playing through my in-dash changer, although it's not terribly surprising that the D1 would have a better DAC section than a stock Subaru head unit. I actually play from the D1's headphone jack, and it sounds surprisingly good for coming through a tape deck. Maybe some day I'll get a different head unit with a line-in port.


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## bobby001

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I actually play from the D1's headphone jack, and it sounds surprisingly good for coming through a tape deck. Maybe some day I'll get a different head unit with a line-in port. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

You mean the line out jack, not the headphone jack.


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## Packgrog

Nope. I mean the headphone out jack. When playing through the tape deck, the D1's line out sounds like crap. Basically, the amp stage on the D1 is acting like a preamp, which seems to be necessary for playing through a tape deck in the car.

 Now, if I were to finally get ahold of a head unit with a dedicated aux-in, I'd probably be using the D1's line out. Unless it too is designed to work better from a portable device's headphone out.


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## nv88

Hopefully someone can give me a good guess as to what happened to my D1. A sleeve come out of one of the buffer sockets while removing the opamp. I very carefully placed the sleeve back down in the socket and it looked normal. I put the new opamps in with no problem. When I turned the unit on everything sounded fine. I listened for an hour or so on and off. Then I decided plug in the D1 and let it run all day to burn-in the new chips. When I came back 8 hours later, there was a slight acidic smell and the right channel had no sound. I tried swapping opamps back, but still no right channel. This happens whether the source was optical or line in. I am positive I put the opamps in correctly. 

 Any guess as to how bad this is? Could the sleeve that came loose be the problem? Do I need to send it back to iBasso? Anyone know what they charge for repairs?


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## Packgrog

Ooof! That sucks, man!

 I know that all I had to pay for getting mine repaired was to send it back to them (which was about $35 in shipping, yikes), but I'd only had mine for two days, and hadn't tried to roll any opamps.

 I find it interesting, though, that you did the same thing I did when mine died. Mine was working fine the first day, and I decided to burn it in overnight, so I plugged it in to the AC adapter, turned it on, and with music playing from my H129, I let it play overnight. It was working when I shut it off and unplugged it, and no longer worked when I turned it on in my car 5 minutes later.

 I wonder if it's simply not safe to play music while it's plugged into the AC adapter. I know I've been VERY careful with it since getting it back. I have the AC adapter plugged into a power strip which remains turned off most of the time. I plug the AC adapter into the D1 with the power off, and only THEN turn on the power strip. And I turn off the power strip before unplugging the D1 after it's done charging. I just really don't want to pay to ship it back again.

 As I recall, all their hardware has a 1 year warantee. Doesn't sound like you've done anything out of the ordinary with it. Definitely drop them an email. They were quite helpful with me.


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## hockeyb213

well I think they said leave the charge switch off when not needed but I never saw them say that it could damage anything interesting


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## nv88

I've written iBasso. I'll let you know what they say.


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## nv88

iBasso has replied that if I send my D1 back they will try to fix it. They think the problem might have been caused by the sleeve that came out of the socket, or some other issue with the board, but not from running it all day plugged in.


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## MoAv

I've been using the D1 for a few months now, changing allot of opamps, and currently using the one iBasso is now delivering the new D1 with.
 I'm using it with my old HD595, and I have to say I'm a little disappointed with the bass, there's non, and on all the opamp I've tried. comparing it straight out of the iRiver H120 the dap has noticeably more bass. Pluging my HP to my Sansui B1000 power amp with the D1 as a DAC changes the bass part completely, it is now significantly better. Could it be that there's something wrong with it ?


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## HeadphoneAddict

Hmmm...

 Could be a bad opamp, or bad connection to the socket, or poor synergy with your HD595.

 You could try the AD797 on a 2:1 adapter made by HiFlight, and I can't fault the bass with that setup. The 797 works well with LMH6643 or AD8397 as buffers, and with just about any good one in the DAC (8656, 6234, 6241).


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## MoAv

It more and more feels like the synergy with my 595, though I can't explain why this happens. The sounstage is great, the mids and high are perfect, just the bass...
 I had another D1 before that, that had a problem and needed to be replaced, and had the same bass issue, so I don't think this one is faulty or something.
 Anyone tried D1 + 595 (low impedance)?
 Where I can buy those AD797 ?


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## green_avanti

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Favorites for main amp were the AD743 closely followed by the AD797 (the OPA2111 was not as good).
 My favorites for buffers were the LMH6643 followed closely by the AD8397.
 My Favorites for the DAC were the LT6234 followed closely by the LTC6241._

 

Hi, I hope you don't mind me jumping in..

 I would like to hear your favourite combo. I have the following Manufacturer's part no.s (from Digikey).

 . AD743JRZ-16
 . LMH6643MA/NOPB
 . LT6234CS8

 All SOIC. I hope these are the right ones.

 These have to be soldered to Browndog SO8 to 8-pin DIP adaptors?

 Re quanities, 2 x AD743, 2 x LMH6643, 1 x LT6234. Two AD743 because they are single channel? What type of adaptor do I need for the 2 x AD743?

 Is there any trick to soldering these to the adaptors, any caution other than the obvious (overheating, solder bridges)?

 What others chips are nice to have, eg are the AD797 and/or AD8397 and/or LTC6241 different enough from those above to warrant getting them as well, or some other suggestion perhaps? 

 Lastly can you recommend a plug and play option?

 Kind regards, and thanks in anticipation..


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## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *green_avanti* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_

 Hi, I hope you don't mind me jumping in..

 I would like to hear your favourite combo. I have the following Manufacturer's part no.s (from Digikey).

 . AD743JRZ-16
 . LMH6643MA/NOPB
 . LT6234CS8

 All SOIC. I hope these are the right ones.

 These have to be soldered to Browndog SO8 to 8-pin DIP adaptors?

 Re quanities, 2 x AD743, 2 x LMH6643, 1 x LT6234. Two AD743 because they are single channel? What type of adaptor do I need for the 2 x AD743?

 Is there any trick to soldering these to the adaptors, any caution other than the obvious (overheating, solder bridges)?

 What others chips are nice to have, eg are the AD797 and/or AD8397 and/or LTC6241 different enough from those above to warrant getting them as well, or some other suggestion perhaps? 

 Lastly can you recommend a plug and play option?

 Kind regards, and thanks in anticipation.._

 

I am on my cell phone so I'll keep this short. You have some of the best opamps I've heard and the correct quantities. The second list you mentioned is also one of my favorites - it is hard for me to pick which is better, because both are so good. I would get all of them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You can PM highflight about making a 2:1 for the 743 if you have the DIP versions. Or, he can do all the soldering of SOIC onto single or dual DIP adapters.

 For plug and play, I'm not sure what can be found as DIP that works in the D1. If I recall the OPA2111, AD746 and LT1364 are available DIP and work okay. The 746 is not bad in the DAC. The LM6172 is available in DIP but I never tried it. I think the LMH6643 and 6655 are available in DIP for buffers.


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## green_avanti

Thanks HeadphoneAddict. Webbie64 also PM'd me to assist,
 Much appreciated..


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## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *green_avanti* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks HeadphoneAddict. Webbie64 also PM'd me to assist,
 Much appreciated.._

 

Cool, also the LM4562 and LME49720 are available in DIP form for buffers, but that was "old school" before we discovered the LMH6643 and 6655. The LM4562 might be good in the main amp, not sure. billinkansas knows I'll buy back the D1 if he ever gets tired of it, but till then I can't test them.


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## jamato8

I find the 4562 interesting at first but it is, in my opinion, artificial sounding with a HiFi sound rather than more natural musical presentation. The 49720 is a little better than the 4562 but can be bettered by the above opamps for musicality.


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## Packgrog

Apparently the D1 is still available as a rebranded item (even though the description still says iBasso). Check the following link:

Welcome to Audiophilechina

 Also note the opamps.


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## idunno

I've been stuck on the AD797 for a while now, but finally decided to try the AD743. If anyone has been having trouble locating the AD743 in the right configuration, check out my post here: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/ad7...-8-mod-379561/

 I'm loving the AD743 with the LMH6655; crisp, clear, natural, superb soundstage. I'm not even missing the AD797 bass!


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## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *idunno* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been stuck on the AD797 for a while now, but finally decided to try the AD743. If anyone has been having trouble locating the AD743 in the right configuration, check out my post here: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/ad7...-8-mod-379561/

 I'm loving the AD743 with the LMH6655; crisp, clear, natural, superb soundstage. I'm not even missing the AD797 bass!_

 

I can provide the AD743 in DIP case configuration. PM if interested. No doubt about it, the AD743 is a great audio opamp!


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## MPSchenck

Bumping an OLD thread! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I have looked around, but a 175 pages it a LOT to sift through for one spec of seemingly unimportant info. 

 I just bought one of one of these from yammy1688, see listing here...
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/so...e-drop-437504/
 ...and apparently this amp/dac used to belong to HiFlight so I feel pretty lucky about that.

 My only problem is the included charger's barrel plug (the end that goes into the amp) is so loose that the amp with not charge. I've tried relieving strain, wiggling it, etc nothing works.

 The charger that came with the unit from yammy1688 says Output 12VDC 2A.

 What I would like to know if this is the charger that came that came with the amp? Is that output correct? 

 Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## HeadphoneAddict

I recall that 12v is correct - I don't know about the rest. It should work with a universal regulated 12v DC charger, so you could look for one with a tighter tip.


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## Packgrog

Well, I guess this is the best place to post this, though this thread (and amp) are long outdated...

 I purchased a TopKit from HiFlight, including the 2x AD743JN in L/R and LMH6655 in buffers (don't remember what's in the DAC). The adapter for the AD743 is huge, and puts a little bit of pressure on the capacitors next to it, but no problems so far.

 Put simply, the sound is superb. It's actually a good thing that I picked up the Denon AH-D2000 before hearing this, though, as it seems that this TopKit is not a great match with the Future Sonics Atrio, my 'phones of choice for the past couple of years. The Atrio paired fairly well with the v2 opamps, which had decent lows, recessed mids, and somewhat shrill highs. The mid roll-off was always noticeable, but the lows and highs worked well with the Atrio. With the TopKit, the sound reminds me more of the Ray Samuels Tomahawk I used to own, which when paired with the Atrio, lead to an overload of bass and noticeably rolled-off highs.

 Just the opposite happens with the Denons. With the v2 opamps, the lows were flabby, the mids distractingly recessed, and the highs shrill and uncomfortable. With the TopKit the mids are brought back, the lows tightened up (an odd change given that the Atrio's lows turned flabby), and the highs became MORE detailed while simultaneously smoothing out. The more sibilant recordings I listen to remain sibilant, but the harshness of it is pretty much gone. It's also interesting that I hear more of the background hiss from vinyl rips, and yet it's actually less distracting.

 Really a wonderful match up here, and big thanks to HiFlight for putting up with all of my questions. His experiments with different opamps have lead to a fantastic improvement in this (sadly outdated) DAC/amp. Awesome!


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## jamato8

That is great to know. I will have to try those opamps in it one of these days.


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## webbie64

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That is great to know. I will have to try those opamps in it one of these days._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Packgrog* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...I purchased a TopKit from HiFlight, including the 2x AD743JN in L/R and LMH6655 in buffers (don't remember what's in the DAC)....Really a wonderful match up here, and big thanks to HiFlight for putting up with all of my questions. His experiments with different opamps have lead to a fantastic improvement in this (sadly outdated) DAC/amp. Awesome!_

 

I'm stunned you don't already have this topkit in yours, jamato8.

 Packgrog is right on the money, except I'd hardly accept something to be outdated because it's no longer FOTM 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The DAC opamp is the LT6234 (although some chose the LT6241 at the time, I believe the LT6234 is the better for the D1 DAC).

 In terms of SQ the DAC is not at the D10 level but more than acceptable for desktop and bedside rigs IMHO. And, yes, the amp section seriously performs with this topkit (in fact without the hiss the similar topkit has with the D10!).

 Have fun with this combo, folks. I've used a couple of these for a while now, though one is more a backup to my D10 rig nowadays, and they are a terrific little bundle of quality sound.


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## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *webbie64* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm stunned you don't already have this topkit in yours, jamato8._

 

Sometimes I just like to stun people. You know, just to see people flopping around like fish in a bucket. . . stunned. . .


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## Packgrog

Well, it's a great option for those of us who just can't afford the D10 yet, but still have a D1. I've contemplated selling the D1 and getting some kind of stationary DAC, but I do still move it between home and office over the weekends, so that wouldn't work out so well for me.

 I do still miss my Monica 2 DAC, though. That thing was just so smooth. With the new opamps in the D1, though, it's closer to what I enjoy. I no longer get that stark "digital" feel to the music. It really is a wonderful improvement. I kind of take it for granted at times, now, just because it's so natural that it just gets out of the way of the music. Really nice.


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## jamato8

I am using my Monica II dac right now. With all the modifications to it the sound is excellent. At home I use a large power supply at 12 volts for the Monica and it is very open and dynamic. On the road my battery supply still does and fine job. 

 The D1 with new op amps though would be a great package and all in one. I look forward to more impressions.


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## Packgrog

Not that I want to get side-tracked with thoughts on the Monica, but I actually think I liked the Monica 2 better than the Monica 3, at least for my uses at the time. Monica 3 was so much louder that I had little to no play in the volume with my D1 and Atrio, and the low impedance of the Denon AH-D2000 means I would have had the same problem with that (I think both are 32 ohms? I have the volume the same for both).

 The biggest thing I can say about the TopKit in the D1 is, again, that it just seems to get out of the way of the music: detailed without distracting harshness, deep bass without flab (especially impressive with the stock D2000). I suspect that your results with all of those upgraded capacitors in your D1 would have even better results.

 I'm actually considering attending another local meet if one is ever organized. I'd love to compared this to the Headamp Pico and Qables iQube. Moon Audio had these at the first local meet I went to, and those two amps blew me away. I would be surprised if either amp weren't a bit better than the D1, especially the iQube, but it'd be fun to find out how close it can get with the TopKit. I'd also love to try out the D1 with some other cans. I suspect I'd still hate the K701 and love the HD650, but it's always nice to know what these things really sound like together. Never gotten to test the D2000 directly against either of these. Sadly, though, almost no one in my area gives a crap about portable gear except me, so I will NOT be going out of my way to travel or share my gear.

 Anyway, I'd be interested to read your own experiences if you pick up the TopKit, John, especially in comparison to use with the Monica 2 (the only direct comparison experience I have with your gear), as well as some of the newer DACs and DAC/amps. More info is always good! Almost as good as more music!


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## jamato8

I have those opamps so as not to Stun anyone, I will give them a try. :^)

 The Monica II those is fine. I have Black Gates X 4 220uf hiQ right at the power pin for the dac section. This really gave it a boost in sound quality. Yeo thought it would just add to the capacitor sound but it doesn't.


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## swbf2cheater

I feel so lost and out of place here lol, i read a few pages explaining the upgrading and im still very lost
   
  i just want my d1 to drive headphones better without changing much else :\


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## jamato8

Well there will be limits with it. It depends upon what headphones you are driving and how loud you wish to go. There have been a number of advance since the D1. I enjoyed it very much but times change. The D4 would offer a nice and powerful amp with a dac. For the D1, what opamps are being used?


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## swbf2cheater

Stock, the person who gave it to me didnt mention it was modded or anything so im assuming it is stock. 
   
  I owned the D3 before and I loved the hell out of it.  I've never used the D4 but all I can say is the D1 doesn't have a good enough amp to do what I want unless its plugged into the USB on my computer.   I had hoped its portable strength and wall adapter strength would be to my liking but I cant complain since it was a gift to me.  I just tried to list it here for sale today but I just cant sell a gift someone gave me, doesn't seem right to me.  
   
  But ya, the D1 doesn't amp my Philips HP 1000 well.  Its a real pain because the D1 sounds just the way I like things to sound.  Its more clear than the D3 and smooths the bass out nicely lol.  I dont really have the funding to buy a true amp to go along with it.  I was hoping one of the other ibassos for the same price range would do a nicer job while still letting me use the usb feature.


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