# My DIY Audio Rack



## colonelkernel8

Here is a rendering of my latest DIY idea. It is an isolation rack that I designed based on various styles that I liked. All joints are mortise and tenon so it will be very strong. I don't know what kind of wood I will use for it, probably maple, but that will get expensive fast, so it will probably end up being something cheaper.


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## colonelkernel8

I will be starting building tomorrow.


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## fordgtlover

Sweet


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## MaxAudioMax

Dude... I made maple headphone stands...and it really is worth the money!

 They are heavy as hell but really beautiful!


 ...oh and sonically...wow...what an improvement ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Enjoy the building.


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## mb3k

What will be your method to attach the legs to the table tops?
 I wish I had the skills to make something like that. 
 Good luck on the build.


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## SoundGoon

You could always use MDF, which would isolate quite well seeing as how it is (or at least is supposed to be) a non-resonating material; then just veneer it in maple. Might be a bit more labor intensive, but probably cheaper. Just some thoughts.


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## luckypictures

Although, being a woodworker myself, I enjoy things that are well crafted, it seems that your design goes against every tendancy of high end "audiophile" racks. No dampening, nothing to prevent vibration, or distribute heat, etc.

 Have you taken any of these into consideration?


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## colonelkernel8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luckypictures* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Although, being a woodworker myself, I enjoy things that are well crafted, it seems that your design goes against every tendancy of high end "audiophile" racks. No dampening, nothing to prevent vibration, or distribute heat, etc.

 Have you taken any of these into consideration?_

 

Actually, the shelves are "floating" and will be on spikes on their four corners. There is a 1/4" gap all around the shelf (its hard to see, I know). Then the whole thing will be mounted on large, custom milled aluminum spikes (not pictured). Heat is not an issue, I only have one tube item, and it will be on top. No class D amps or anything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


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## MaxAudioMax

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *colonelkernel8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, the shelves are "floating" and will be on spikes on their four corners. There is a 1/4" gap all around the shelf (its hard to see, I know). Then the whole thing will be mounted on large, custom milled aluminum spikes (not pictured). Heat is not an issue, I only have one tube item, and it will be on top. No class D amps or anything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

Well he got you there...


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## colonelkernel8

Just got back from the wood store, man, maple is expensive, like 5 bucks a board foot. I have $100 in wood sitting in my dorm's hallway. I will begin cutting and gluing tomorrow. I hope to have it pretty close to done by the weekend.


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## Killercrush

Wow colonel, can't wait to see the final result ! 

 I predict a 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 guy burning 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 wood 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 haha


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## colonelkernel8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Killercrush* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow colonel, can't wait to see the final result ! 

 I predict a 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 guy burning 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 wood 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 haha_

 

I dont get it.

 I think to top it off I am going to get a metal plate engraved with "Brady Audio" and put it on the top shelf. Then I'll sell it for a grand. Ha, just kidding about that part.


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## skyline889

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *colonelkernel8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, the shelves are "floating" and will be on spikes on their four corners. There is a 1/4" gap all around the shelf (its hard to see, I know). Then the whole thing will be mounted on large, custom milled aluminum spikes (not pictured). Heat is not an issue, I only have one tube item, and it will be on top. No class D amps or anything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

Class D amps are usually smaller, more efficient, and don't produce as much heat. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Nice work though, I look forward to seeing the completed rack.


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## colonelkernel8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *skyline889* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Class D amps are usually smaller, more efficient, and don't produce as much heat. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Nice work though, I look forward to seeing the completed rack._

 

Yeah, not really sure what I was thinking there. Class A produces all the heat. Yeah, like Pass Labs and First Watt stuff.


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## luckypictures

Yah, none of that is in the rendering. Sounds good.

 AND GOOD LUCK!

 I'll be checking back for pics.


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## colonelkernel8

I realize now that I wont have enough wood to do all the shelves initially, damn. I thought 100 bucks would git 'r' done. What a pain.


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## colonelkernel8

Here is what $100 of maple looks like (for all you visual head-fiers out there):


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## soloz2

here's my DIY rack. I think yours will look a lot nicer, but mine was probably cheaper and I don't have access to all the nice tools that you do.


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## colonelkernel8

I was originally going to mimic that sort of design, but I decided against it for no reason at all. It was more of a random decision. That and it would be a pain to do all those little spikes.


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## swt61

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *soloz2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_here's my DIY rack. I think yours will look a lot nicer, but mine was probably cheaper and I don't have access to all the nice tools that you do.


_

 

You don't need to make any excuses, that looks very nice!


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## swt61

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *colonelkernel8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here is what $100 of maple looks like (for all you visual head-fiers out there):_

 

Just be glad you didn't choose Gabon Ebony!


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## colonelkernel8

Or Brazilian Rosewood


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## colonelkernel8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *swt61* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just be glad you didn't choose Gabon Ebony!_

 

Its Gaboon btw.


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## soloz2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *swt61* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You don't need to make any excuses, that looks very nice!_

 

thanks! I got the original idea from you, I just modified it to fit my needs and budget a little better


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## swt61

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *colonelkernel8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Its Gaboon btw._

 

Oh no he D,nnnnnnnt! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 LOL! Yes it is, that's a fat finger typo. But be on guard from now on...I will have my revenge! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *soloz2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks! I got the original idea from you, I just modified it to fit my needs and budget a little better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It seems to be a very flexible design, and I just use screws to hold my legs in place, in case I ever need to exchange them for longer ones. You made your legs tall enough to not have that worry. Probably a good idea, and better cooling too.


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## soloz2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *swt61* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It seems to be a very flexible design, and I just use screws to hold my legs in place, in case I ever need to exchange them for longer ones. You made your legs tall enough to not have that worry. Probably a good idea, and better cooling too._

 

yeah, I was actually thinking about chopping the legs on a couple of them because my monster power center finally came back and instead of a 3600, I got a 5100 (for free) and I find it slightly better than the OneAC units so it's sharing the bottom shelf with my 1030 integrated. I have another shelf, but I'm afraid if I add it the TT will be too high for easy accessibility.

 but yeah, the tall shelves were intended for upgrades in a future power amp and to give my tube amps plenty of air.


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## MASantos

I love woodworking. I am currently planning a pair of bookshelf speakers made of MDF which will in turn be veneered with either ebony or zebrawood. I can get any veneer I want for free, so thats a big help Ill also be building the "centre" piece which will hold a T-class amp to power the speakers as well a USB DAC module from twistedpearaudio.com. The objective is for it to resemble one of those nice JVC micro sistems but with great sound quality. It will be my transportable speaker rig when I move to florida next year! I'll start a thread about it soon. Coronel, great job!

 What finishing will use? Varnish? If so I would recomend some sort of maritime varnish. They are normally much more durable and resistant than regular varnishes.


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## colonelkernel8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MASantos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I love woodworking. I am currently planning a pair of bookshelf speakers made of MDF which will in turn be veneered with either ebony or zebrawood. I can get any veneer I want for free, so thats a big help Ill also be building the "centre" piece which will hold a T-class amp to power the speakers as well a USB DAC module from twistedpearaudio.com. The objective is for it to resemble one of those nice JVC micro sistems but with great sound quality. It will be my transportable speaker rig when I move to florida next year! I'll start a thread about it soon. Coronel, great job!

 What finishing will use? Varnish? If so I would recomend some sort of maritime varnish. They are normally much more durable and resistant than regular varnishes._

 

Actually, it will be unfinished for now. Not worried about scratches atm because none of my components have spiked feet. If I do finish it at some point, it will likely be beeswax for its unique luster. Unfortunately, I am going to need about $50 worth more maple. I way under shot with my estimates. Damn shelves are solid maple.

 I also plan to build speakers. Any chance I can get some quilted maple veneer?


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## colonelkernel8

swt, since your a master carpenter (and Im just a kid who took a couple high school shop classes and watches New Yankee Workshop), what do you think of the design? Do you think the mortise and tenon is a good choice? Because of the proximity of the two boards, there is only enough room for about a quarter inch of mortise.


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## swt61

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *colonelkernel8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_swt, since your a master carpenter (and Im just a kid who took a couple high school shop classes and watches New Yankee Workshop), what do you think of the design? Do you think the mortise and tenon is a good choice? Because of the proximity of the two boards, there is only enough room for about a quarter inch of mortise._

 

It's actually hard for me to visualize what you're planning. I thought I had a good idea from your drawing, but then you talked about a 1/4" reveal, and little spikes for the shelves to rest on. That really threw me off. If you have a more detailed drawing of what's going on where the shelf meets the pillar I would love to see it.

 In general I think you might be wasting a lot of effort though. I think with the thinner Maple that you plan on using for the shelves (unless you're planning on gluing up some thicker shelving stock) you need more mass if you're going to have rigid joints.

 You might be better served to cut your square stock (pillars) into individual legs like soloz2's design, and attach them under the corners of each shelf. Then use spikes under the legs. Each spike rests on the screwtop that holds the leg of the shelf below it. This dissipates a lot of resonance if you make sure all four legs of each shelf are exactly the same length.

 I understand this design isn't as impressive looking as nice mortised joinery, but for the intended use it's a better design functionally. You can always add some chamfered edges to the legs and shelves to dress it up and make it your own.

 I would also put some kind of finish on right away. Dust will settle into the pores of the Maple otherwise, and it will start looking dingy before long. Three coats of Tung oil is an easy and beautiful finish.

 Again until I understand your original design better my opinion is subject to change.


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## colonelkernel8

Here is a better view, the shelf will rest on 4 of these spikes and touch nothing else.


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## swt61

OK now I understand. Very nice design! The cross members won't be supporting a lot of weight. They'll basically just be holding the unit together. All the weight will be directed downward, and the 1/4" notch in the pillar will be more than enough to support your equipment. So yes I think you have a very well thought out design there that should work very well. It also is quite a nice tidy look. If you have access to a biscuit joiner that's what I would use to hold the corner bracket in place (the piece that holds the spike).

 This should be a very nice equipment rack indeed! I look forward to seeing it finished, and hope you'll give us some progress reports with pics.


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## colonelkernel8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *swt61* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK now I understand. Very nice design! The cross members won't be supporting a lot of weight. They'll basically just be holding the unit together. All the weight will be directed downward, and the 1/4" notch in the pillar will be more than enough to support your equipment. So yes I think you have a very well thought out design there that should work very well. It also is quite a nice tidy look. If you have access to a biscuit joiner that's what I would use to hold the corner bracket in place (the piece that holds the spike).

 This should be a very nice equipment rack indeed! I look forward to seeing it finished, and hope you'll give us some progress reports with pics. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thank you, I will do progress pics. The shop at the school here should have a biscuit joiner. If not, I will probably rent one.


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## colonelkernel8

Well, my worst fears have just been realized, it looks like I will be doing an swt-like design. I initially thought that the school had a wood shop, like a full wood shop, I went by the door and it said "wood shop" on it. Turns out the only thing in there is a table saw and a miter saw. No planer, no mortising drill press, no router, no throat plate for a dado blade (or even a dado blade at all). I can't tell you how frustrated I am or how stupid I feel for assuming that a room labeled "wood shop" was going to actually be a wood shop.

 Hmmm, what can I make with a table saw and a miter saw and $100 in maple.


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## soloz2

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *colonelkernel8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, my worst fears have just been realized, it looks like I will be doing an swt-like design. I initially thought that the school had a wood shop, like a full wood shop, I went by the door and it said "wood shop" on it. Turns out the only thing in there is a table saw and a miter saw. No planer, no mortising drill press, no router, no throat plate for a dado blade (or even a dado blade at all). I can't tell you how frustrated I am or how stupid I feel for assuming that a room labeled "wood shop" was going to actually be a wood shop._

 

Yeah, that's why mine ended up like it did. I had grand pictures in my head, but a limited budget ($100, I ended u about $125 with tax and all) and limited tools consisting of a miter saw, a table saw with a dull blade and a drill press. Overall, i think I managed very nicely.

 It's a good design that is fairly easy to build. Kudos to swt for the original idea


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## colonelkernel8

I wish I was at home. Then I'd go to my high school and use their amazing shop. They had a $16000 wide belt sander there, as well as every other wood working tool you can imagine.

 I wish Norm Abrams was here, he could make something amazing with a table saw and a miter saw.


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## colonelkernel8

Wait, an idea has sparked.

 We may not have a wood shop, but we have an insane metal working shop. Aluminum anyone? Anyone know what kind of extrusion this is:






 and about how much is costs.


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## swt61

Too bad about your "wood shop", I would have assumed the same thing.

 I don't know what kind of extrusion that is, but I've seen them on A-gon, and it sure looks slick. I have a feeling it won't be cheap, but I really don't have an idea of what the cost would be. 

 Your metal shop teacher might have some ideas and answers.


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## colonelkernel8

Its t-slotted aluminum. I just discovered.


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## swt61

I'm checking out this site now. Looks very interesting.

http://www.tslots.com/includes/savemoney.htm

 Their DesignPro softwear looks interesting, and it's a free download. So is their catalog.


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## philodox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *swt61* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh no he D,nnnnnnnt! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 LOL! Yes it is, that's a fat finger typo. But be on guard from now on...I will have my revenge! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

hehe, too funny.


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## colonelkernel8

Man, 50 cents an inch. This is going to be EXTREMELY expensive. Only 25 cents with the 1"x1" but that might look lame.

 EDIT: I can use the rounded edge stuff for the vertical posts...hmmmmm, might look snazzy.


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## colonelkernel8

About every combination I try results in something ridiculously expensive. Those guys are running a crime circuit. The hardware is so ridiculously overpriced. You can spend about $60 on the actual extrusion, but all the hardware is like $100, which is UNBELIEVABLE. $100 for nuts, bolts, and little L brackets they charge $4 a piece for. What a joke. Another good idea lost because of ridiculous overpricing.


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## swt61

I'm not sure what your design is, but I followed the pic you posted of the A-gon builders design (Steve Blinn), but for a five shelf unit, and I come up with $281.00 for T-slotted extrusion, and about $125.00 for hardware. Yeah It's expensive, but it's an extremely solid design. It also just looks fantastic! I could use my existing wooden shelves, and I'm thinking about doing it.


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## MASantos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *colonelkernel8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_About every combination I try results in something ridiculously expensive. Those guys are running a crime circuit. The hardware is so ridiculously overpriced. You can spend about $60 on the actual extrusion, but all the hardware is like $100, which is UNBELIEVABLE. $100 for nuts, bolts, and little L brackets they charge $4 a piece for. What a joke. Another good idea lost because of ridiculous overpricing._

 

Go and check prices for comercial audio racks. You'll find out that even at 300$ yours will be much cheaper than a comparable comercial unit. 

 Maybe you weren't thinking about spending that much, but that's is a totaly different matter


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## colonelkernel8

Yup, really didnt want to spend that much, heh.

 If I had $300 to spend on an audio rack, well, I wouldn't buy an audio rack.


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## colonelkernel8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *swt61* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure what your design is, but I followed the pic you posted of the A-gon builders design (Steve Blinn), but for a five shelf unit, and I come up with $281.00 for T-slotted extrusion, and about $125.00 for hardware. Yeah It's expensive, but it's an extremely solid design. It also just looks fantastic! I could use my existing wooden shelves, and I'm thinking about doing it._

 

What did you use for the joints? The L-brackets? Or do you plan to machine so you can use their little anchoring connectors?


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## swt61

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *colonelkernel8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What did you use for the joints? The L-brackets? Or do you plan to machine so you can use their little anchoring connectors?_

 

The L brackets. They look fine to me, and are nice and simple, as well as adjustable.

 It'll be a month or so before I order the material, but I think I'm going for it.


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