# beyerdynamic DT880 re-cable guide(in progress)



## Jam_Master_J

Here's the full guide. Sadly I lost a couple pics that showed more info about routing wires but hopefully it's still useful for people.

*[size=small]beyerdynamic DT880 Re-Cable[/size]*

*Tools/Materials*

 Soldering iron
 Multi-meter
 Appropriate wire(Mogami 2534 in my case)
 Appropriate termination(Canare F12 in my case)
 Heatshrink(optional)
 Nylon covering(optional)
 Heat Gun(optional)

*Disassembly:*

 The first step in re-cabling the dt880s is to disassemble the headphones. This process should work for any of the 770/880/990 series beyer headphones.

 1) Remove the velour ear pads.







 2) Remove the padded headband. First you'll need to unbutton the fasteners and then it should come off easily.






 3)Unscrew the tabs that say "DT880 L/R". You will need a philips screw driver for this. Remember to set the parts in a safe place. This allows us to work with the drivers separately from the headband.

 4)Remove the driver. The best way to accomplish this is to use a small thin metal blade such as in a pocket knife. Simply wedge the blade in along the out circumferance of the driver and wiggle it a bit. The protective mesh should come out first and then the driver itself. Use caution here, replacing a driver could be expensive.







 We now have the headphone disassembled and ready to start operating on.






*The Wiring*

 One of the first things you'll notice upon exposing the dt880 drivers is that each driver has 3 terminals rather than the standard 2 terminals.






 The center terminal is just used as a neat way to splice the signal cable for the opposite earcup and is used only on the left driver. In my case, I will use 4 conductor cable and will therefore be bypassing the center terminal on both drivers. To me, this way is less degrading to the signal.
 For the above driver(left driver), terminal #1 is the positive connection, terminal#3 is the ground terminal and #2 will not be used by most people.

 The red/gold mark on the driver indicates the positive terminal. On the right driver the terminals are opposite. This can be seen by the mark. This is something very important to watch for, don't assume both drivers have the positive terminal in the same position, look for the mark.

 Here are both drivers completely desoldered from the stock cable(right driver is on the left side of the picture):





 Now, after you completely remove the stock cable you will need to prepare your new cable. In my case, using Mogami wire here is my procedure: Strip the outer sheathing and shielding off two feet of the Mogami wire. Of the revealed wires there will be two blue and two white. Cut *one* of each color to a short length of about 6 inches and leave the other two wires uncut.

 All 4 of the wires will enter the left earcup from the bottom. The two long wires take the extra journey from the left earcup to the right earcup. It is kind of important that the length of wire between the cups be approximately 16". This measurement works well with the headband so aim for that as a result. Once you get the 16" of separation you will have some extra cable in your right earcup. If you've got more than 5" or so of wire going into the right earcup you can go ahead and trim it down a little. Make sure that if you are adding heatshrink or anything to the connecting cable that you do it now before we start securing things.






 Once you start getting your cables in place you may as well implement some strain relief. I like to use little zip ties. You want strain relief anywhere a cable leaves an enclosure.






 After your cables are tied in you are ready to strip them and start soldering. I like to use the white/clear wires for signal (+) and the blue wires for ground (-). Remember my note on polarity and solder carefully.






 Once your wires are soldered you need to do one little check. Strip a small amount of sheathing off the opposite end of your cable(where the connector will go). Use a multimeter or other method to determine which white wire is carrying the left signal and mark it somehow. The blues do not matter because they get tied together anyway. Marking the left makes it easier to solder on the connector without getting left and right backwards. Or you can just guess and then change it if it turns out backwards, your choice.

*Finishing Up*

 Now you're gonna wanna do little odds and ends such as adding heatshrink, covering to the main cable. After this you start reassembly. Everything goes back together the same way it came apart, the headband assembly can be a little tricky. Try to route your connecting cable as neatly and evenly as possible, it should fit well if it's close to 16".






 Once this is done you just have to solder your appropriate connector on(remember to slip the barrel on first or you may get annoyed) and you'll be all done.

*Finished Product*










*Beauty shots(thanks to kin0kin)*











High-res Versions of desktop images

 Thanks for reading my guide, feel free to comment or make suggestions.


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## XFxGeforced

great guide so far. i used to think that rewiring would be really complicated, but if all you have to do is desolder the old wires off, and then solder new ones to the terminals, then i have a fun job ahead of me. what would you say is the best guage to buy, will silver wire sound good on my 580s?


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## Jam_Master_J

Hi,
 In terms of gauge you'll probably want 22-26 AWG. Type of wire is a bit more subjective. Do a search for Sennheiser recables and you may get some opinions on what type of wire works best.

 Thanks for the comments on the guide


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## Jam_Master_J

I forgot to mention:

 I've never re-wired Sennheisers but I believe they use a detachable cable design so you don't even need to open up the headphones. All you need to do is get those same little connectors that the stock cable uses to terminate your cable.


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## kramer5150

Nice ... thanks!!

 I like to use a little piece of masking tape and mark the + terminal, I always forget (or at least second guess myself) half way through the procedure.
 Garrett


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## XFxGeforced

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jam_Master_J* 
_I forgot to mention:

 I've never re-wired Sennheisers but I believe they use a detachable cable design so you don't even need to open up the headphones. All you need to do is get those same little connectors that the stock cable uses to terminate your cable._

 

i was thinking about just getting a replacement cable and snipping it, but if they sell connectors alone then id rather do that, thanks for the suggestion ill check it out


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## Jam_Master_J

my mogami wire came in and I've got a Canare 1/8" connector I can use for demonstration before my 1/4" arrives. More guide coing soon


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## Jam_Master_J

Guide completed. Check it out and share your thoughts


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## XFxGeforced

hows the new cable sound? looks very nice btw


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## FallenAngel

Looks nice buddy, just one little concern. At the cup where the cable enters the headphones, it looks like only a little wire tie is holding it from slipping out, you might have a little problem if you pull on the wire and that tie slips off into the thinner section. Hopefully it doesn't happen, but something you might want to consider. Other than that, it looks great.


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## Jam_Master_J

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FallenAngel* 
_Looks nice buddy, just one little concern. At the cup where the cable enters the headphones, it looks like only a little wire tie is holding it from slipping out, you might have a little problem if you pull on the wire and that tie slips off into the thinner section. Hopefully it doesn't happen, but something you might want to consider._

 

Hi, I understand your concern but the wiretie would have to slip about 5" inches before it would be on the thin section. Although I may look for a more permanent solution to the strain relief.


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## Jam_Master_J

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *XFxGeforced* 
_hows the new cable sound? looks very nice btw 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks for the comments. The new cable sounds slightly more polite in the highs with more mid-range emphasis. I can't guarantee this wasn't due to some placebo affect though.


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## el_matt0

hey, i just recabled my dt990s and honestly found it was VERY easy to just go for the dual entry cable (one into each cup). i honestly PREFER this IMO to the single entry, as i find the single "pulls" down on the left ear noticeably. if you go for a dual entry, you dont have to take off the headband or take it apart even. just open up the cups the same way and unsolder the stock wire. with a pair of pliers and cutters you can simply pull the original crossover wire free from under the headband. then all you gotta do is drill out a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the R cup, insert your new wires, and resolder (im of course skipping out all the details on heatshrinking to make it look nice etc). anyways, if you had your mind set on keeping it single entry, afraid you gotta go the long route and do it Jam Master's way (at least he documented it well though! ), if not, save yourself the time!


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## Jam_Master_J

Yep dual entry definitely has it's advantages. I found that I like the simplicity of single entry, it seems like it's less obtrusive but I can notice the pulling on one side that you noticed too.


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## werdwerdus

for dual entry, can't you just rotate the cups 180 degrees and use the holes from the stock wire? of course the words would be upside down then


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## el_matt0

haha you CAN do that, but it, in reality REALLY doesnt save you much, all you hafta do to go dual (keeping them the RIGHT way up) is take the foamies off and drivers out, no need to touch the headband or remove the cups even, and just drill ONE hole, it takes about 10 seconds! flipping em upside down is a process in itself and not to mention you would definitely have to drill out or enlarge the existing holes from the crossover wire (they are VERY small, probably only about 4mm or so if i had to guess), and you would STILL be left with a gaping 1 cm square in the top of your left cup where the original entry was. so...no id say flipping em upside down probably is a pretty POOR choice.


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## omendelovitz

nice work, Jam. One question for all of you - any idea what the white paper 'doughnut' surrounding the driver does?


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## LawnGnome

on the back of the driver is there a transparent passive membrane?


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## Ichinichi

sign me up! just got my dt880s and they're great for my non-classical. on the WA6 they're nice, light and fluffy. can't wait for my metalbase to arrive!

 anyway, i am wondering at the sonic differences of a recable. most of the threads i've found say either:

 1. "only marginal sonic difference, not worthwhile doing" OR

 2. "here's how you do it"

 so presumably, there is something to be gained by modding? is it worthwhile? and what are the sonic differences??? i'm mainly going to use them for pop/rock/r&b. cable recommendations and sources are appreciated!


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## Kizza

Excellent Guide!


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## wgr73

Great guide! Really helpful.


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## Nebby

Awesome guide, just used it to recable my DT770's, although I did it dual-entry style instead


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## Necrolic

Great guide, I'll probably end up using this if I decide on the DT880's (over K701's) if I decide to cheap out and not use a professional.

 And hey, a fellow Nova Scotian/Haligonian (stupidest name ever for people from Halifax IMO)!

 EDIT: Any chance you would know a place I can give the DT880's a listen? Peak Audio is just getting in some K701's later this week so I'm going to give those a listen, just want to find a place to listen to the DT880's so I can form my own opinion.


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## Jam_Master_J

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Necrolic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great guide, I'll probably end up using this if I decide on the DT880's (over K701's) if I decide to cheap out and not use a professional.

 And hey, a fellow Nova Scotian/Haligonian (stupidest name ever for people from Halifax IMO)!

 EDIT: Any chance you would know a place I can give the DT880's a listen? Peak Audio is just getting in some K701's later this week so I'm going to give those a listen, just want to find a place to listen to the DT880's so I can form my own opinion._

 

Hey,
 You'll have to get in on the next maritimer meet, you'll hear everything you could want. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think I'm the only maritimer who owned dt880s but I sold them a good while ago though. I do have broken in, recabled k701s if you'd be interested in hearing those.


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## Necrolic

When would the next meet happen to be? And what's your personal opinion between the two sets of cans for listening to pretty much any type of rock/rap/metal and some gaming?


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## Jam_Master_J

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Necrolic* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When would the next meet happen to be? And what's your personal opinion between the two sets of cans for listening to pretty much any type of rock/rap/metal and some gaming?_

 

I love both them but sadly they both lack in those genres IMO. The k701 is better than the DT880 though but still not a great headphone for rock-metal (thats the only time I pull out the SR-225s). We don't have a big meet planned for a while but most of us meet up in smaller deals more often.


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## Necrolic

Ugh, that sucks for me, I love the sound of Grado headphones, but I prefer headphones that completely encircle my ears. Are there any headphones that have a similar earcup style around that price range that you would recommend over them? I can't spend more than $280-$300 Cdn. on them, especially since I was only going to end up spending about $260 for either of the ones I've mentioned shipped.

 I've heard from a few comparisons that the DT880's have better bass than K701's, while the K701's have a much bigger soundstage, but which one wins in the treble department?


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## Jam_Master_J

880s have a more noticeable treble with just a bit of glare. k701 treble is more subtle and has more air.

 Brian (a member around here) has dt990s I think, those might be in line with what you're looking for.


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## Deathwish238

Sweet guide, what type of wire would not make the headphones brighter?


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## applevalleyjoe

Since the outside surface of the earpieces are flat, can you make these into woodies by simply gluing appropriate sized wood pieces to them? Anyone tried this?


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## 43st

Thanks for the write-up!


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## apatN

^ Ding ding ding!


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## eruditass

interesting.. thanks for the bump! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 does anyone know what kind of cable the stock one is?

 my dt880 would probably love some thick copper..


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## ShinyFalcon

I'm inclined to say the copper on stock headphone cables are as thick as a strand of hair or two/three.


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## audiophonicshz

Bringing back an old thread!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 So I recabled my 880's with mogami cable and canare connector, like the OP but did dual entry, and I am a happy camper. I highly suggest this mod for anyone who has ANY beyer phone be it 770 880 or 990. Its just a real shame that beyer, for a company making a good, medium tier, phone to skimp so much on the cable. After taking apart the phones and checking out the wire, it appears to be shielded with the lacquer used on bell wire, so each set of wires are barely insulated, and forget about shielding.

 Now the soundstage has opened up quite a bit and I feel like the entire bottom end on the frequency range has improved, opened up. Highs seem less jarring, sibliant, even at pretty high volumes. I started this mod not really thinking too much of it, as I generally don't subscribe to changing cables making too much difference, I use ofc 12g in my speaker setup to be safe, but nothing too fancy. I felt the mogami was reasonably priced ofc, and seemed much better than the crap beyer gave us. 

 So for 12 bucks worth of cable I got me quite an upgrade. One more note: it seems that the phones now can handle more volume with ease, as before the recable, using my ZVM headphone out, the highs used to be pretty harsh, leading me to want to turn down the music, now I just want to rock out cuz the beyers sing with more juice. Highly recommended, thanks Jam Master.


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## apatN

A worthy post for thread bumping. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I plan on recabling mine with the same Mogami you used and also dual entry. Did you run into certain problems?


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## audiophonicshz

No real problem, I found that I had to be extremely careful with the drivers because under the soldering contact I saw that the voice coil wires were soldered in place as well, these wires I kid you not are as thin as lint. So fine I had to strain a bit to see it.

 I used standard silver bearing solder from rat shack, and did some quick solders with a 25 watt soldering iron to prevent messing up the voice coil solder joints. I've got experience with soldering and I recommend using flux for all surfaces. It makes soldering new and old surfaces soooo much easier. Oh and dont go for rosin core solder. That crap just burns. Get a separate flux from your local electronic supply co.

 Also drilling the hole for the entry of the second cable was nerve wracking. I also had to plug up the previous, right headphone wire holes with silicone to prevent too much sound leakage. All in all, it worked out well for my first recable. Thanks to all the help here, I was prepared even before I started.


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## 8140david

I would like to recable my DT-880 (250 ohms), replacing its single ended jack cable by 2 XLR cables, so I can plug it on a fully balanced amp.
 Would something have to be changed in the procedures above? Especially for connecting the correct pins?
 Sorry if it's obvious, I've never done this kind of thing (DIY).
 Thanks for your help!


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## thaddeussmith

here's my finished dt990 re-cable. I also went with dual entry and love the balance it brings to wearing. used a g&h bigfoot plug from parts express and canare mini star quad in red. hard to tell in the pics, but you see just a hint of the red underneath the yellow techflex.

 at the y-junction i just ran a single layer of shrink tube up to the cans and then placed several layers of shrink tube as stress relief on the ear pieces. inside the cup i hot glued the snot out of the holes for additional support and then a small layer over the top holes for the old wire to the right cup.

 total time was about an hour and now i have about 15ft of working room


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## 43st

That looks amazing! Great work thaddeussmith!


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## thaddeussmith

thanks! most nerve wrecking part was when i connected the new leads. this was my first re-cable and i read a ton of posts about ruining the miniscule driver leads.

 all in all, it turned out like i had hoped.


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## pytter

Just re-resurrecting a great thread! 

 I love the idea of doing this to my DT880s, especially like the mogami cable look - brilliant effort!

 Alas my soldering skills are non-existent and I am not going to start on something as expensive and dear to me as my DT880s - does anyone know of a company or (very) reputable/ skilled individual who could do this for me?


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## apatN

^ S2 audio. Contact Warrior05 here on head-fi. He can help you.


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## apophis11

Thanks for all the tips.

 I was recently forced into recabling my dt990 Pro.(naughty cat found a new chew toy)
 But instead of recabling the whole thing, I'm planning on replacing the cable between the earcups. But I don't know where I can buy a replacement cable with the same diameter.

 I was hoping someone here would know.


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## sgupt

Would you guys recommend Mogami or the Canare for rewiring the 880s? My cable is coming loose so I need to recable anyways, but can't decide if one is better than the other.

 Also, what size of techflex or other nylon sheathing would you use; 1/4"?


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## tphg

Hi,
  I'm about to rewire my DT880 and found something odd, some differences and some of them big once =/
   
  First:
  I don't have that net and ring around the drivers.
  Second:
  I only have two pins on both driver and some metal plate to connect the left driver with the right.
  The pins and the plate dont worry me but that missing part is odd and a little worrying.


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## apatN

Are those vintage DT880s?


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## tphg

Quote: 





apatn said:


> Are those vintage DT880s?


 

 Not that i know of?
  They are about 3 years old.


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## tphg

Quote: 





apatn said:


> Are those vintage DT880s?


 

 Don't think so?
  I bought them February 2007


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## apatN

Weird. I ask because I have never seen that before. You might want to start a new thread to get some more attention to this. I am sure more people are interested in this.
   
  Beyers usually have a cable with three wires and not four. The drivers also look different. All the drivers that I have seen have three platforms and not two.


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## tphg

Well it seems like I'm screw*d anyway.
  Did some soldering and the contact got too hot and melted a small part of the plastic around the driver so now it wont get contact unless I move the cable around a little =(
   
  They worked well for a while but now... *cries*


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## apatN

Uh-oh... Perhaps you can use some glue to hold it all in place. Still, consider making a new thread here. I know more people want to know what drivers they are (I sure want to).


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## tphg

So, my drivers (or one of them) wont work as mention above.
  I'm thinking of buying a new (used) pair on ebay or somewere and only use the drivers.
  Is it the same drivers in 770 or some other model, think I've read it someware?
  Don't want to pay almost DT880 full price when all i need is the drivers.
   
  Have any ides/suggestions.. anyone?


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## pytter

I could be completely wrong here, but I thought I had read elsewhere that the drivers in the DT770  and the DT990  are the same but that the DT880  are different (I am talking about the premium version - but maybe it is the same between the pro versions)...


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## pytter

Forgot to mention - instead of buying another set why not contact your Beyerdynamic distributor and see if they will get you the spare part.  Certainly getting spare for the pro versions isn't an issue 9at least no in the UK)


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## ElephantTLK

I have question. I recabled my DT880 with Mogami. Single entry - like original. Now I want to recable them double entry. But how? Can someone explain? Or show in pictures? Or write a guide. How to connect. 
   
  I will use Mogami or Canare cable...


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## cfcubed

Just IMO but I preferred single-entry for my DT880 Mogami 2983 recable: http://www.head-fi.org/t/514509/need-help-in-choosing-cable-sleeve-for-modding-d2000#post_7097550
  Don't have a pic but used a nice small black stress relief to properly fit the Mogami in the (modified?) original entry hole. 
  Again IMO 2983 is enough of an improvement over stock & light enough not to notice (e.g. that one side is _slightly_ heavier than the other).
   
  Clearly if you do the dual entry you'll be drilling a hole in the other side & doing something about stress relief & don't think there's much more to say. 
  Unless someone wants to show (off how they happened to do it.


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## ElephantTLK

But I still want to recable it dual-entry... For fun. And I  prefer dual entry.


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## ElephantTLK

Guys I REALLY need help! How to connect for dual entry...
  I draw one picutre... Do not laugh. Is this ok? Should I connect this way? I will use y-splitter... So on right side two wires straight to plug?
   

  Thank you.


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## Mad Max

You are going to connect the signal wires to the left channel on the plug and ground to the right channel. Not quite right. If the driver on the left is left channel, then its red (signal I presume?) wire connects to the smallest tab (left channel) and the blue ground goes to the largest (ground). Then the signal wire for the right side goes to the second smallest tab (right channel) and the ground goes to the largest tab as well.


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## Kenjiwing

http://imgur.com/a/vzQOg
  So I was going to rewire my DT880 600ohms based on a few guides ive read.. I opened it up and saw this.
   
  I plan on using Mogami W2534 and id really like to do a dual entry split.
   
  Any ideas on how to handle the crossover etc?


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## FallenAngel

Drill a hole in the bottom of the second cup, you'll have to implement strain relief (I usually heatshrink the cable, use a ziptie and some hot glue). Those diodes go in the trash, just mark +/- and wire the new cable directly.


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## dookie182

Hello everyone, I've been following this thread with great interest and even sent private message to few of you guys. I intend to recable my beyer DT770 pro anniversay edition 32 ohm, with a dual entry system and a neutrik 4pin xlr connector I've read than most of the recable where done with either mogami or canare 4 braid cable. I'm inetrested in trying to use this also relatively inexpensive adam all krystal occ cable (http://www.global-audio-store.fr/fr/368-adam-hall-cable-microphone-krystal-series-occ-xlr-male-femelle-10-metres.html) wich are a two occ conductor+shield. So I'll be using two piece of cable, on for each driver. but I need help on how to connect everything safely. Today's knowledge is that both hot signal go to there respective's driver pin. both grounds go to there relative pins also left ground > pin 2, right ground > pin 4 But this is not a commun/shared groud anymore. Is it troublesome? And what should I do with the shield of both cable? SHould I do something like that? http://postimg.org/image/i5zf4chkz/ any wise advise is welcome. best regards Dookie182


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## Mad Max

Connect the shield to the grounds on the XLR plug only, not on the headphone drivers and you should get it right.
  Those are some thick cables, man.  You sure you don't want to strip the outer jacket and shielding?  You probably will not need them anyway if you are just listening at home, plus it will make the cable lighter.


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## dookie182

Thanks for the hint Mad Max.
  I kind of came to that conclusion too, but browsing head-fi, I came across this thread http://www.head-fi.org/t/509021/beyerdynamic-t1-cable-connection-mod
  And was wondering if I shouldn't just let the shield alone (couldn't be hard to connect or disconnect the shield from the 4 pin xlr connector anyway.)
  I' guess I should look for something lighter too. I was eyeing some up-occ copper cables any advise on what gauge I should go for. More 21awg or 24?
  best regards


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## Mad Max

24awg would be better for flexibility.  21 will be unnecessarily thick, I think.
   
  Floating shield is pointless as far as I know.  You might as well just omit it, otherwise you need to connect it at the XLR plug to the minus pins so that the shield can actually protect.


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## avaddikt

I take it by all this discussion there is no way to install a connector in the housing for the single entry cable?


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## FallenAngel

I see absolutely no reason why not, just make sure it's small enough to fit in there. I've seen some pretty tiny 3.5mm jacks.


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## avaddikt

fallenangel said:


> I see absolutely no reason why not, just make sure it's small enough to fit in there. I've seen some pretty tiny 3.5mm jacks.


 

 I can see by the photos, not a whole lot of room in there. Just seemed curious that no one (that I know of) has tried it.


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## Drnaptime

Just used his guide to recable my dt 990s, went for the dual entry instead of single entry and my god do they sound amazing!


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## skilhead

I did a recable using a Rean tiny xlr 4-pin connector, succesfully fitted in thanks to Dremel work. Also note the retaining nut needed filing down across one flat in order to allow the driver to seat down correctly






[/IMG]


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## SirIsaac

This is exactly what I'm thinking of doing to my DT990s. Did you notice a good improvement in sound quality?


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## skilhead

My primary objective was to allow me to switch cables with different lengths and jack styles (straight or 90 degree) to suit the particular use, so: short for carrying around wiith the phone, medium for sitting by the computer and long for TV/hifi. 
Not really possible to do before/after comparison because it took me several hours, but my audio-memory and older ears did not tell me of any difference.
I first used van damme tour grade classic XKE quad microphone cable 268-026-000 to make the long one,
but found that it was too stiff and weighty.
Therefore I stripped out the wires and sheathed them with the outer braid from some sailing rope.
I left them twisted together with the fibrous strings and also left the paper wrapper in place, then threaded through the rope on which I used a drop of cyanoacrylate glue to prevent fraying at the ends.
Better feel/comfort.

I've posted some pics of my other cables of this set in to the DIY cable forum,
http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery/14850
Post numbers # 14861 a 14864


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## CADCAM

Hope someone gets this post!

I have a pair of DT880 600ohm Premium and would love to hear them from my balanced amp. I've been powering them from a LD MKIII and although glorious I'd love to hear them balanced. Does any member offer re-cabling in the US? I love the hobby but I haven't soldered anything except a pair of RCA cables a long long time ago.  
Any direction appreciated!


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## skilhead

CADCAM said:


> Hope someone gets this post!
> 
> I have a pair of DT880 600ohm Premium and would love to hear them from my balanced amp. I've been powering them from a LD MKIII and although glorious I'd love to hear them balanced. Does any member offer re-cabling in the US? I love the hobby but I haven't soldered anything except a pair of RCA cables a long long time ago.
> Any direction appreciated!



My mod as posted earlier using a Rean connector would permit a 4 wires connection. I suggest it would be very worthwhile to practice soldering to build confidence. It’s not difficult !


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## DrivenKeys

skilhead said:


> My mod as posted earlier using a Rean connector would permit a 4 wires connection. I suggest it would be very worthwhile to practice soldering to build confidence. It’s not difficult !


I agree that you may want to try it yourself, but if you try desoldering a Beyer driver, get lots and lots of practice first. These drivers are famous for their fragility, and it's much easier to permanently ruin the voice coil wire than with most other headphones. I destroyed mine by holding my soldering iron on the contact for just 1 or 2 seconds too long. I've been soldering for over 20 years; it's a very easy, very expensive mistake.

I'm not saying not to try it, but be sure you make a little pile of practice projects before you risk a 70 or 80 dollar driver.


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