# Audio hobby complete - tweaks are great



## Patrick82

Like most audiophiles know, getting synergy takes a very long time. My 1st audio system took 1 year to build the synergy, my 2nd took another year, and my 3rd took one month. My 3rd system is many times cheaper and sounds much better.

 I'm using AKG K1000 earspeakers with Nordost Valkyrja speaker cable, I had it since my 1st system was completed.


 [size=medium]*1st system
*[/size]

 I was using Krell KAV-500i and Cary 303/300 which smeared up the details, Nordost Valhalla cables compensated for it. I got synergy from Solid-tech vibration isolation because it made it edgier and faster. I didn't have a problem with bass. Everything sounded very smooth because of the 768kHz upsampling. I made a blind test and scored 99.99%.


 [size=medium]*2nd system
*[/size]

 I changed to ICEpower amp and Benchmark DAC1. I got loads more detail and transparency, it sounded like there was nothing in front of the music. But the rear soundstage wasn't as deep as with Cary's 768kHz. Because when you get less smearing, you get a narrower soundstage because all the sounds are closer to you. But I didn't care so for a year I tweaked my system for max speed. And then I had to boost up the bass with P300 Power Plant which made it dull, but the cold Valhalla interconnect compensated for it. It sounded fine, but if I didn't listen for 2 days it sounded grey and dry.


 So with both my systems the soundstage size was different, it was either a bigger soundstage with less detail or more detail with a narrower soundstage. 


*[size=medium]3rd system[/size]
*

 I downgraded the electronics again, and did tweaks that were for free.

 With my 3rd system I get the best of both worlds. More detail and speed than my 2nd system, and a bigger rear soundstage than my 1st system. With my 1st system the rear soundstage was only 40 meters deep, but with my 3rd system it is 5 miles deep because of the clarity of quiet sounds which weren't there before. The soundstage space is unlimited. It sounds smooth, clear, fast and heavy.

 Even if I would downgrade something, it's still good enough to last my whole life. Here is how I tweaked my 3rd system: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=881010


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## Spareribs

I love your toes


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## vcoheda

so what exacty is your current system?


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## vcoheda

what is that?


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## Alleyman

Quote:


 With my 1st system the rear soundstage was only 40 meters deep, but with my 3rd system it is 5 miles deep because of the clarity of quiet sounds which weren't there before. 
 

Thanks for the laugh.


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## LawnGnome

Oh god, here we go again.

 And patrick, you FAILED that blind test, but claim its because the cable wasn't plugged in enough by 1mm.


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## ccontreras

so that is the hygienic paper in cables?


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LawnGnome* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh god, here we go again.

 And patrick, you FAILED that blind test, but claim its because the cable wasn't plugged in enough by 1mm._

 

No, I passed. I answered Statement power cable and it was right, look again. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_bMgSYpZac

 As a bonus I also said that it wasn't plugged in deep enough, and I was right about that too. A small gap makes a bigger difference than cable lengths. I guessed 2mm gap on the 1m cable but it was 4mm gap on the 1.5m cable. Both combinations result in the same sound signature, I have heard it before. 

 Skeptics like to cherry pick and ignore everything else.


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## LawnGnome

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, I passed. I answered Statement power cable and it was right, look again. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_bMgSYpZac

 As a bonus I also said that it wasn't plugged in deep enough, and I was right about that too. A small gap makes a bigger difference than cable lengths. I guessed 2mm gap on the 1m cable but it was 4mm gap on the 1.5m cable. Both combinations result in the same sound signature, I have heard it before. 

 Skeptics like to cherry pick and ignore everything else._

 

You just said, and in the video you said 1m cable when it was 1.5m cable. So your answer was wrong.

 Also, since you say you got it right because you got the brand right, but not the length, then you had a 25% chance of getting it right by pure luck.

 Not to mention a single test with a single is proof of nothing.

 This isn't called cherry picking, its called high school level stat analysis.


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## choomanchoo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Spareribs* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I love your toes_

 

His fat toes look like thumbs,


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Alleyman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the laugh._

 

I don't know why it is funny. The soundstage gets bigger the smoother the sound is. You can do that from reducing the jitter or add some smearing. But with smearing the lowest level details aren't audible. 

 But it doesn't matter after you get an overkill in low-level detail, at one point you can't hear any more improvement in low-level detail because it's too quiet. So then it's time to add smearing to the sound to make it smoother and increase the soundstage size.

 I have found that Nordost Valhalla power cord (1 conductor per signal) adds smoothness without removing much low-level detail. Valhalla also makes everything faster in the process, it's the best of both worlds; smoother and faster.
 With stock power cord the soundstage is small because it's edgy, but with Valhalla it's unlimited size. It makes it sound like real life even when it colors the sound. Audiophiles with tubes or upsampling know what I'm talking about.

 I'm feeding my DAC1 with a 192kHz signal but it wasn't enough to remove the last edginess. Valhalla power cord is what fixed the problem. It is similar to upsampling, it sounds like Valhalla power cord boosts up the signal to 1 million kHz! The longer the Valhalla is, the higher the number! But it reduces low-level detail in the process, so I'm using as short as possible. I have found that the longest Valhallas in the beginning of the chain and shortest at the end of the chain gives the most low-level detail and bass. I use 2m for transport, 1m for DAC1, 50cm for amp, 1m for Premier Power Plant. I tried 50cm for the Power Plant but synergy was gone.

 But the transport isn't important because my untweaked 44.1kHz computer still sounds much better than my 2nd system ever did, it's very harsh, edgy and distorted, but I still hear more low-level detail from the computer than I did with my 2nd system. The tweaks for the DAC1 and amp are what gives the real improvements.


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## infinitesymphony

Now that your system is as revealing, detailed, and musical as you like, you should buy some less expensive power cords, interconnects, and sources and write equipment reviews.


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## scompton

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_










 what is that?_

 

And why isn't it wrapped in ERS paper?


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scompton* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And why isn't it wrapped in ERS paper?_

 

I wrapped it later.


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## mofonyx

Funny question and I know you won't be honest.

 Considering you're 26 (from the "82" in your handle).. I am curious to where you get the money from to fund your extreme tweaks!


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mofonyx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Funny question and I know you won't be honest.

 Considering you're 26 (from the "82" in your handle).. I am curious to where you get the money from to fund your extreme tweaks!_

 

I thought I was 24 just a month ago, time flies when wrapping with ERS Paper.

 Someone asked me the same question: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showpo...9&postcount=45

 I make less money than a normal person, I just don't spend it on anything else than audio. I'm wearing the same shorts as 15 years ago, they are little worn but still work good. My other clothing is 13 years old. In the time I didn't buy any clothes I was saving up money but didn't know what to spend it on. Then I found this forum and spent all my life savings on audio.


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## archosman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wrapped it later.



_

 

Holy crap you're nutters!
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I expect a apartment fire at some point with all that exposed gear lying around.


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## onvn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* 
_I'm wearing the same shorts as 15 years ago, they are little worn but still work good. My other clothing is 13 years old._

 

You still fit into the pair of shorts you got when you were nine?


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *onvn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You still fit into the pair of shorts you got when you were nine? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

Yes, I was wearing oversized clothes because I was poor.
 I was wearing 45 shoe size in grade 4 and someone stole them, then I bought another pair, I had a problem walking in stairs but I got used to it. Now when my feet are fully grown I use 41.5 shoe size. 
 I was wearing a too big jacket and now the jacket is still too big even after I built some muscle. But I like the bigger jacket more because I don't need any gloves.


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## Patrick82

I was searching for new hobby but somehow the posts with advice were deleted and the thread locked, I don't know what to do. It is weird that more than 50% of my posts are deleted at Members' Lounge. Maybe it's all in my head. Or maybe I'm just not welcome there, I need to resume the audiophile hobby to be welcome in this forum. This is great, now I can try all those tweaks I was afraid of doing because of "safety issues".

 I'm going to slice open the rest of my Valhalla cables, solder them together and do apartment wiring. Based on previous experiments a longer Valhalla power cord is going to make the sound worse. But there's still 5% chance that it will improve the sound. So I need to know the truth. 
 I bought a few Oyaide connectors now, I will see if I can hear a difference compared to my wattgate + adapters, I don't expect any.


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## Jon118

Wait, why are your safety issues suddenly a non-issue? Did I miss something here?


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## Patrick82

This is not normal 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . I put on my headphones and it was time to search for problems with the sound, then I kept listening and listening, suddenly 6 hours had passed and I still couldn't find anything wrong with the sound. Oh well. At least now I know I'm not insane or delusional. I noticed after I passed 14 days of warm-up it started getting smoother and too warm. But after 18 days it started getting more transparent. I'm at 20 days warm-up now. I'm surprised the warm-up just keeps on improving. For some reason I thought that 2 weeks warm-up was enough but apparently it wasn't, more than a month warm-up might be needed. Maybe even a year!

 The longer the audio system warms up the less of the Valhalla sound signature I can hear. I'm hoping I hear some problems with the sound soon so I can cut open the rest of my Valhallas, they are waiting for me. I can hear whispering at night ("Cut me! Cut me!" or something like that). It is hard to sleep. I have planned to make 13 meters Valhalla power cable for the apartment. But I'm scared the sound will become too thin and smooth, I can't put anymore books on top of my gear to boost up the bass, because my Magix aren't strong enough for that.


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## Icarium

You need to get them to produce some ERS tape for taping together your ERS paper.


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Icarium* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You need to get them to produce some ERS tape for taping together your ERS paper._

 

I already have sticky ERS Paper but it's hard to re-use it. I use packing tape for my experiments instead.


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## Patrick82

I just realized that when I get my hands on the Oyaide AC connectors I need to turn off my system and warm it up again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 , I don't want to try hot swapping the AC connector, I don't even know if it's possible.

 Now I know how to do it, just solder a temporary wire to the component and plug it in while changing the connector of the main wiring. There will be little sparks when soldering but based on previous experiments the ERS Paper shouldn't catch on fire. 
 Maybe I should have done that before warming up the system (permanently keep 2 power cords attached to the component), but it seems pointless after I have changed the connector anyway. Unless I want to do A/B-ing.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jon118* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wait, why are your safety issues suddenly a non-issue? Did I miss something here?_

 

When were my tweaks ever a safety issue?

 My tweaks were never a safety issue because I'm the only one getting fried if I make a mistake. With Valhalla apartment wiring full of solder joints it's going to be a problem when visitors touch the wall. I guess I could just cover the solder joints with some tape, but I don't have much tape left.


 EDIT: Maybe I don't need to do this anyway. If I lose track of time for 6 hours then the audio system seems to be functioning properly.


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## chesebert

I like your style. There is nothing wrong with enjoying the process of tweaking whether it actually makes an audible difference or not (I am sure it does in your case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sometimes even I get into the tweaker mode and it's very addicting, very rewarding, and very fun to do. The flip side is tweaking takes extremely long time (I sometimes tweak away for hrs without knowing), and the results maybe inaudible to anyone else but you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Keep it up Patrik!!!


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chesebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like your style. There is nothing wrong with enjoying the process of tweaking whether it actually makes an audible difference or not (I am sure it does in your case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sometimes even I get into the tweaker mode and it's very addicting, very rewarding, and very fun to do. The flip side is tweaking takes extremely long time (I sometimes tweak away for hrs without knowing), and the results maybe inaudible to anyone else but you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Keep it up Patrik!!!_

 

I don't like the pain from tweaking, I just like the improvements afterwards. I'm bending under the table in a cramped position, back is burning and I need to stretch my back once in a while. Sometimes I even need to lay down on the floor for a few minutes until my back is functioning properly again. My legs are also constantly shaking from fatigue.
 After my back is messed up I change my position to my knees, and then my knees are hurting. After a while I need to change my knees into a different position so that different parts of the knees are pressing against the floor. A few weeks after my tweakings I still have a problem with my knees in the shower. I need to put shampoo on when kneeling in the bathtub because if I'm standing up the water sprays on the walls and it gets too moldy. A couple years ago men in worker suits had to come inside with a loud machine to remove the mold, they said the machine needed to be always running. The electricity bill was 10 times higher and I couldn't afford to eat any food. 

 So that was the side effect of tweaking your audio system, it results in all kinds of problems. But the improvement in audio is worth it so I still do it. If there are no further improvements, I don't see what the point is in damaging your body anymore.


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## HumanMedia

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chesebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like your style. There is nothing wrong with enjoying the process of tweaking whether it actually makes an audible difference or not (I am sure it does in your case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sometimes even I get into the tweaker mode and it's very addicting, very rewarding, and very fun to do. The flip side is tweaking takes extremely long time (I sometimes tweak away for hrs without knowing), and the results maybe inaudible to anyone else but you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Keep it up Patrik!!!_

 


 And when it ends up sounding worse, there is sometimes much work to undo the tweak.


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## Icarium

You know. Thing is Patrick was way ahead of his time cage modding the K1000. Now the effects of the mod have been demonstrated at a recently largish meet (50ish people anyway).. though I guess not everyone heard it. 

 Maybe he is on the right track with the rest!


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## Prozakk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Like most audiophiles know, getting synergy takes a very long time. My 1st audio system took 1 year to build the synergy, my 2nd took another year, and my 3rd took one month. My 3rd system is many times cheaper and sounds much better.

 I'm using AKG K1000 earspeakers with Nordost Valkyrja speaker cable, I had it since my 1st system was completed.


 [size=medium]*1st system
*[/size]

 I was using Krell KAV-500i and Cary 303/300 which smeared up the details, Nordost Valhalla cables compensated for it. I got synergy from Solid-tech vibration isolation because it made it edgier and faster. I didn't have a problem with bass. Everything sounded very smooth because of the 768kHz upsampling. I made a blind test and scored 99.99%.


 [size=medium]*2nd system
*[/size]

 I changed to ICEpower amp and Benchmark DAC1. I got loads more detail and transparency, it sounded like there was nothing in front of the music. But the rear soundstage wasn't as deep as with Cary's 768kHz. Because when you get less smearing, you get a narrower soundstage because all the sounds are closer to you. But I didn't care so for a year I tweaked my system for max speed. And then I had to boost up the bass with P300 Power Plant which made it dull, but the cold Valhalla interconnect compensated for it. It sounded fine, but if I didn't listen for 2 days it sounded grey and dry.


 So with both my systems the soundstage size was different, it was either a bigger soundstage with less detail or more detail with a narrower soundstage. 


*[size=medium]3rd system[/size]
*

 I downgraded the electronics again, and did tweaks that were for free.

 With my 3rd system I get the best of both worlds. More detail and speed than my 2nd system, and a bigger rear soundstage than my 1st system. With my 1st system the rear soundstage was only 40 meters deep, but with my 3rd system it is 5 miles deep because of the clarity of quiet sounds which weren't there before. The soundstage space is unlimited. It sounds smooth, clear, fast and heavy.

 Even if I would downgrade something, it's still good enough to last my whole life. Here is how I tweaked my 3rd system: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=881010




_

 

Want more tweak ideas?

 1. Lose the books! Build 3/4" MDF boxes the size of the components and fill with sand, and place on components. Also some for beneath for components to further damp bad vibes. http://cognitivevent.com/sandbox.html

 2. Hanging wires transfer vibrations, and create their own resonances. Find a way to hang/suspend them to where there is no tension on them. 

 3. Tablecloth for the desk to hide the mess beneath.


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Prozakk* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Want more tweak ideas?

 1. Lose the books! Build 3/4" MDF boxes the size of the components and fill with sand, and place on components. Also some for beneath for components to further damp bad vibes. http://cognitivevent.com/sandbox.html

 2. Hanging wires transfer vibrations, and create their own resonances. Find a way to hang/suspend them to where there is no tension on them. 

 3. Tablecloth for the desk to hide the mess beneath._

 

I'm going to put a lot of sand under the components, maybe the whole apartment covered in sand, it's like I have a beach at home. I will walk barefoot. But the problem is my chair can't roll anymore, the legs of the chair will be buried in sand.

 Is it against the law to go to the beach and get buckets full of sand? Maybe I can go at night. I don't think people will complain if little beach is missing.


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## discordia.23

I might be inviting disaster, but what would covering a floor in sand do for your audio system? Or is it for aesthetics?

 You could try find a supplier of river sand, which is very similar (to my tastes) to beach sand.


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## Ichinichi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_




_

 



 you look like you shoot a mean game of pool (2b4s, if i'm not mistken?)! that's a hobby worth getting into further!


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## Prozakk

And are wires running thru a hole in the wall on the right? Tisk-tisk!


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## OverlordXenu

Enjoy your bugs and bacterium and viruses if you get beach sand.


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## monolith

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *OverlordXenu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Enjoy your bugs and *bacterium* and viruses if you get beach sand._

 

I think it'd be pretty extraordinary if in several bucketfulls of beach sand he only found one bacterium.


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## LawnGnome

You try to hotswap AC line and there is a good chance you are going to kill yourself. Don't try it.


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## alea35

am i the only one that laughs really hard at patrick's threads? it's obviously satire but it just seems hilarious. or maybe it's not satire and he's just crazy. either way, a great laugh!


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_...when I get my hands on the Oyaide AC connectors I need to turn off my system and warm it up again_

 

Today I woke up and was expecting to receive my parcel since it has gone a week. But it hasn't left USA yet! What is going on with the postal workers? Doesn't International Dispatch mean it leaves the country? Why does it say that in both Chicago and Miami?

  Quote:


 Detailed Results:

 International Dispatch, September 10, 2007, 7:25 pm, MIAMI 
 International Dispatch, September 06, 2007, 2:49 am, O'HARE APT/CHICAGO 
 Acceptance, September 04, 2007, 4:00 pm, NORTH PRAIRIE, WI 53153 
 Electronic Shipping Info Received, September 04, 2007


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## Jon118

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *alea35* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_am i the only one that laughs really hard at patrick's threads? it's obviously satire but it just seems hilarious. or maybe it's not satire and he's just crazy. either way, a great laugh!_

 

Everyone has assumed it is satire at one point, but then a lot of us realized that no one has this much money to spend on a joke. Seriously. You would have to be crazy to make this stuff up and then actually do it just as a joke. I think he's the real deal.


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vcoheda* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so what exacty is your current system?_

 



*[size=medium]Warm-up[/size]
*

 My system has warmed up 25 days now and the sound is still changing every day. After 2 weeks it sounded warmer for a few days, but then it started sounding colder and more transparent, and now after 24-25 days it sounds warmer again.
 The low-level detail is constantly improving, there seems to be too much low-level detail now, it makes it sound a little noisy. I was thinking of putting a longer Valhalla band-aid to remove the low-level detail and make it sound cleaner, but then I remembered the lack of bass I would get from it.



*[size=medium]Premier Power Plant works[/size]
*

 Anything I do is going to mess up the synergy. For half a year I tried 20+ combinations with Premier Power Plant and none of them had as good synergy as with P300 Power Plant. With the P300, there were dozens of ways to build a system. But with the Premier, it seems like there is only one combination when using K1000 earspeakers.



 [size=medium]*No ERS Paper for Premier Power Plant
*[/size]

 Putting ERS Paper inside or around Premier Power Plant makes the MWave1 signature more apparent and there is lack of oomph in the bottom end. 
 When doing the same with MWave4 of P300 Power Plant, it makes the MWave4 signature more apparent and gives an even greater oomph. 
 So ERS Paper makes the equipment work like it should in the first place. Without ERS Paper the difference between Multiwave settings is smaller.

 So a nude Premier Power Plant infected with RFI is what I need to use to get synergy. Everything else in my system is wrapped with ERS Paper.



*[size=medium]How a worse pre-amp gives better sound[/size]
*

 The pre-amp inside Benchmark DAC1 is very bad, but it still gives me the best sound of any other combo. A year ago I compared it against PS Audio's Gain Cell pre-amp (HT Bypass), and the DAC1 sounded broken in comparison, it sounded too boomy, grey and noisy. The Gain Cell had tighter bass and was edgier with a blacker background. Perhaps the edginess gave the illusion of a blacker background. The Gain Cell board was powered through each ICEpower amp module, so there was DC noise between them which resulted in some edginess. Since the pre-amp inside DAC1 is always powered, it makes sense to use it as pre-amp because there is less noise interference, even when it is much worse.

 When I used the Gain Cell pre-amp I couldn't get synergy with Premier Power Plant, everytime I tried it the bottom end was empty, it was unbearable. I had to use the worse P300 Power Plant instead, and to compensate for the muddiness of P300 I had to use Valhalla interconnect to make it sound colder. It gave lack of low-level detail but it gave better synergy.

 But then I removed the Gain Cell pre-amp and Valhalla interconnect. I replaced them with Benchmark DAC1's internal pre-amp and Valkyrja speaker wiring, and it worked. With the Premier Power Plant I get synergy even with a huge downgrade in electronics. I also get far more low-level detail than ever before just because I removed the P300 Power Plant.

 So the difference between a midrange and high-end pre-amp was smaller than tweaks.

 My system costs only a fraction of the price now and the audio quality is better in every way.


*[size=medium]No brightness[/size]
*

 It seems like most audiophile gear tone down the brightness in order to give the illusion of more detail. The MWave4 setting of P300 Power Plant toned down the brightness and speed to make the low-level detail more apparent. It revealed more bass transients, it sounded very dark. But the MWave1 does the opposite, it makes everything faster which improves the highs and midrange, but the bottom end and low-level detail are missing because the surface of the music is emphasized, it sounds very bright. MWave4 is dark, and MWave1 is bright, it is night and day. Sinewave is somewhere between them but I didn't like it. Premier Power Plant only has MWave1 and sinewave, so getting synergy without MWave4 is a big problem.

 It you make the surface dull, you hear deeper into the music. It reminds me of QuickSilver Contact Enhancer, it turns the brightness into darkness. I tried it with Premier Power Plant but still didn't get synergy with Gain Cell pre-amp. I tried everything I could think of. Downgrading into the crappy pre-amp of Benchmark DAC1 was the only thing that solved the problem.




*[size=large]One combination that works with Premier Power Plant[/size]
*
 It is very hard to get synergy, sometimes you get it, but after a couple weeks something bothers you and you need to tweak more, and then you just keep on going. With the Premier Power Plant I was very lucky, it shouldn't have happened because I tried 20+ times and I was never even close.




*[size=medium]Electronics[/size]*

 Benchmark DAC1 (with internal pre-amp, jumpers set to -30dB)
 ICEpower amp (fuses bypassed with Valkyrja wiring, power cords hardwired)
 Premier Power Plant (no mutilations)
 4 Noise Harvesters (other outlet)
Cary 303/300 CD transport 192kHz (not needed to get synergy, it's only for smoothness)



*[size=medium]Vibration isolation[/size]*

 books on top
*Benchmark DAC1*
 4 Magix levitation feet
 metal plate
 4 Solid-tech Feet of Silence
suspension shelf
 4 Solid-tech Disc of Silence
 Solid-tech Rack of Silence

 2 *ICEpower amp* modules
 1 Magix levitation foot under each module
 metal plate
 4 Magix levitation feet

 books on top
*Premier Power Plant*
 4 Magix levitation feet
 wooden board
 3 Solid-tech Feet of Silence

 books on top
*Cary 303/300*
 3 Magix levitation feet
 wooden board
 3 Solid-tech Feet of Silence


 The Toroid inside Benchmark DAC1 was removed from the case and put on top of a Magix levitation foot. It gave a huge improvement in low-level detail and smoothness.



*[size=medium]ERS Paper[/size]*

 Everything covered except for Premier Power Plant. Remember 1+ cm distance from what is it shielding. Also cover the edges with tape when jamming it inside the electronics. The more ERS Paper the better.

 Internal pics: DAC1 , ICEpower amp , Cary 303/300


*[size=medium]Cabling[/size]*

 [size=small]*Headphone cable*[/size]

 330cm 1x22awg Nordost Valkyrja speaker cable for K1000 earspeakers (hardwired both ends). pic



 [size=small]*Interconnect*[/size]

 27cm 1x22awg Nordost Valkyrja speaker cable + 15cm 1x22awg Valhalla interconnect (hardwired both ends). pic



 [size=small]*DC wiring*[/size]

*Benchmark DAC1:* 2x80cm 1x22awg Nordost Valkyrja. pic
*Cary 303/300 transport:* 160+ cm total for 4 cables, 1x22awg Nordost Valkyrja. pic



 [size=small]*Power cords (1x16awg Nordost Valhalla for everything)*[/size]

*DAC1:* 1meter. Each conductor inside their own ERS Paper tubes. 3 layers ERS Paper for each tube. pic

*ICEpower amp:* 50cm for each cable. 1 power cord for each module, plugged into separate Isozones of Premier Power Plant. pic

*Premier Power Plant:* 1meter

*Cary 303/300 transport:* 2meters



 [size=medium]*Star grounding*[/size]

 All the ground wires are connected to a single point above the system using 50cm 1x16awg Nordost Valhalla, and from there a 1m Valhalla is plugged into the wall.


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## Spiug31

I am considering getting some Precision Audio Cable Elevators as I notice a clear change just when lifting my headphone lead clear of all objects. 
http://translate.google.com/translat...ial%26hs%3DxNu
http://www.hifi2die4.de/seiten/elevator/elevator.htm

 Patrick, have you tried a tweak like this ?


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Spiug31* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am considering getting some Precision Audio Cable Elevators as I notice a clear change just when lifting my headphone lead clear of all objects. 
http://translate.google.com/translat...ial%26hs%3DxNu
http://www.hifi2die4.de/seiten/elevator/elevator.htm

 Patrick, have you tried a tweak like this ?_

 

If you have a carpet then static electricity enters the cable, so when you lift it up you don't have that problem anymore. But why spend money on it.

 I tried vibration isolation for my headphone cable with Magix levitation feet and it didn't give any improvements at all for me. pic
 Use toilet paper rolls to lift your cable off the ground instead, it's for free.


----------



## Spiug31

I have a wood floor, no carpet and nothing but wood in contact with the cable when it is on the desk or ground. I will however try egg carton and toilet rolls, as well as thick felt before I spend on the elevators (thanks for the suggestion).

 this was the source of my inspiration
http://www.audiotweaks.com/reviews/c...ors/page03.htm


----------



## Spiug31

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* 
_But why spend money on it._

 

it had a much greater effect than adding/removing bags of sand from under my mini-dac, and a more universal effect to improve soundscape, instrument focus and dynamics of music than any of the wood blocks or sorbothane I've tried with my equipment.

 added to this it'll help tidy my cables


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Spiug31* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a wood floor, no carpet and nothing but wood in contact with the cable when it is on the desk or ground. I will however try egg carton and toilet rolls, as well as thick felt before I spend on the elevators (thanks for the suggestion).

 this was the source of my inspiration
http://www.audiotweaks.com/reviews/c...ors/page03.htm_

 

It makes sense now. I didn't think cable contact with the floor would make that big of a difference. Based on what the manufacturer writes, the less contact the better. I'm using cotton thread to suspend the cable inside toilet paper rolls. When I did it with my headphone cable, I didn't hear any improvements until I wrapped it in ERS Paper. Maybe my ears aren't good enough to detect subtle differences.


  Quote:


 Precision Audio Products provides the following explanation on how and why cable elevators work:

 Cables come in contact with a wide variety of flooring surfaces. Each can have a different effect on cable behavior. By elevating cables off the floor you eliminate static charge and you lower capacitance. The net effect is lower noise and increased dynamics. Another factor is the dampening of the natural modulation inherent to all cable. That is an electrical signal passing through a conductor (cabling) produces a desirable mechanical resonance that is dampened when placed on the floor. This also constricts dynamics and low-level detail. *Placing cables in free space would be ideal.*


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Icarium* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You know. Thing is Patrick was way ahead of his time cage modding the K1000. Now the effects of the mod have been demonstrated at a recently largish meet (50ish people anyway).. though I guess not everyone heard it. 

 Maybe he is on the right track with the rest!_

 

The cage mod gave probably the smallest improvement in my system. But it was for free, I like tweaks that are for free, until something breaks.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Spiug31* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_it had a much greater effect than adding/removing bags of sand from under my mini-dac, and a more universal effect to improve soundscape, instrument focus and dynamics of music than any of the wood blocks or sorbothane I've tried with my equipment.

 added to this it'll help tidy my cables 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I tried EAR Large sorbothane feet ($3) a year ago under my P300 Power Plant and it made it sound worse. It was boomy and muddy. I liked tennis balls (cut in half) better because the difference was only subtle, maybe there wasn't a difference but I still kept them under the component because I didn't have anything else. When I replaced the tennis balls with Feet of Silence the improvement was about 30-50 times bigger than with sorbothane. When I replaced the Feet of Silence with Magix levitation feet the difference was almost as big. When I put Feet of Silence under the Magix, I got a further improvement.
 When using Feet of Silence and Magix combined, vibration isolation makes the biggest improvement in my system.


----------



## Patrick82

Something weird happened. I was bending inside my closet to press the reset button of my computer, but I accidentally pressed the power button, I had it pressed in and didn't want to stay bent over forever, so I released the button and pressed it back in. The computer was turned off for 1 second.

 Then I listened to music with my untweaked computer and the warm-up was gone, I didn't know 1 second would do this!! Now it sounded smoother than my tweaked Cary CD transport just because the low-level details were gone. It used to be the opposite, because my untweaked computer is edgy, harsh and fatiguing, like it is running on half the resolution. But when the computer started from cold, the edginess was gone, but so were the low-level details, it sounds more relaxing. The difference between Cary and computer was small, but now the difference between them is HUGE, Cary's transparency from 25 days warm-up is amazing. With the cold computer, there is no transparency or low-level detail anymore.

 When the transport has warmed up it sounds whiter and blacker which is fatiguing. But there is more transparency and low-level detail. When you start the transport from cold, the low-level details are covered in smoothness and openness, it makes it sound cleaner, it is similar to the coloration of Valhalla power cable, except Valhalla doesn't remove that much low-level detail. Warm-up of transport seems to make a bigger difference than Valhalla for the transport, except it goes in the wrong direction. Valhalla compensates for the fatiguing low-level detail from the warm-up. I don't know what is the point of using Valhalla then.

 EDIT: I remember now, a few weeks ago I compared warmed up system + Valhalla against cold system + stock cable, and I liked the sound of Valhalla + warm-up better. I found a link and another link. Valhalla power cord is smooth like tubes because it doesn't make the power supply work properly, that's why I like it. It's like it joins together the samples in the music. I think I already said all this in page1 of this thread! This is what happens when not being biased from the past, I write the same impressions and conclusions many times. I always reach the same conclusion.


----------



## Patrick82

I don't care about the money, but I did some fast calculations. I have spent over $50k on my audio system, it would be over $100k if I bought everything new from Sweden.

 My 3rd system can be found for $10k used and it gives better sound than something that costs 10 times more!

 Audiophiles who have spent $$$$$$ on their system don't like it so they try to ignore the truth, they try to justify their purchases. But they don't realize they are lucky since they can just sell their gear. I can't sell mine since I mutilated everything in order to find the truth. 
 Maybe audiophiles only care about the price tag and not how good it sounds. I'm not an audiophile then, because I only care about better sound and I get that for a cheaper cost. People don't want to believe that a $975 DAC is so good. There is no problem with brightness when using Magix levitation feet and Valhalla power cords. Magix is a great fix for the brightness.


----------



## Marc303

now you are complete with your headphone audio system you should move onto loudspeakers and start again.

 moving furniture around inch by inch should keep you entertained for decades


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't care about the money, but I did some fast calculations. I have spent over $50k on my audio system, it would be over $100k if I bought everything new from Sweden.

 My 3rd system can be found for $10k used and it gives better sound than something that costs 10 times more!

 Audiophiles who have spent $$$$$$ on their system don't like it so they try to ignore the truth, they try to justify their purchases. But they don't realize they are lucky since they can just sell their gear. I can't sell mine since I mutilated everything in order to find the truth. 
 Maybe audiophiles only care about the price tag and not how good it sounds. I'm not an audiophile then, because I only care about better sound and I get that for a cheaper cost. People don't want to believe that a $975 DAC is so good. There is no problem with brightness when using Magix levitation feet and Valhalla power cords. Magix is a great fix for the brightness._

 

How can levitation feet fix brightness?!

 The only thing i can think of is either fibration in your caps or your powersupply! I think the valhalla cable fixed the brightness for at least 95%!


----------



## Pibborando

Ahaha, oh Patrick. You're the only person I can imagine saying they're being frugal with ONLY a $10,000 system, with a straight face. Yeah, man way to be a cheap-ass.

 Also, how the hell could you POSSIBLY make a $100,000 headphone system? I'm guessing $80,000 of that would be ICs right...


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How can levitation feet fix brightness?!

 The only thing i can think of is either fibration in your caps or your powersupply! I think the valhalla cable fixed the brightness for at least 95%!_

 

Magix adds low-level detail while Valhalla power cord removes it. The reduction in brightness is about the same. I would spend my money on Magix before Valhalla because Magix improves the sound instead of covers it up. Magix and ERS Paper are the real tweaks with no weaknesses. Valhalla is just a band-aid for too much low-level detail and brightness, when you remove them you get the illusion of less muddiness, it makes it sound clean. Who wants too much noisy low-level detail anyway? Just remove it with Valhalla and you get fake transparency, it messes up the sound but it makes it sound like real life. Valhalla is the only band-aid in my system, everything else improve the performance. For the interconnects I only needed to add 15cm of Valhalla bandit to remove the low-level detail and make it edgier and cleaner. Using a full Valkyrja for the interconnects had more low-level detail but it was too warm and fatiguing, it didn't sound like real life because there was too much low-level detail. But with Valhalla, I'm listening to real life.


----------



## Marc303

patrick , with all your tweaks you have done , may i ask what tweak is good to bring the midrange a bit more forward ?


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pibborando* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ahaha, oh Patrick. You're the only person I can imagine saying they're being frugal with ONLY a $10,000 system, with a straight face. Yeah, man way to be a cheap-ass._

 

Most people can save up $10 000 in 3 years no problem. I wouldn't go faster than that because the ears need time to improve too! If you tweak too fast you get headaches and maybe some aneurysms. You need to take it slow and practice to make your brain faster.

 After I used my life savings I only have $300 per month to spend on things. The good thing with tweaks is that you buy little every month to keep your brain constantly improving.


----------



## xnothingpoetic

I wish I could spend all of my money on audio.

 But alas I have to save my money to use on books/supply's for school.

 And I don't have much to sell, because I modified most of my other audio equipment.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Marc303* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_patrick , with all your tweaks you have done , may i ask what tweak is good to bring the midrange a bit more forward ?_

 

I got emphasized midrange from the steel balls of Solid-tech Rack of Silence, it doesn't have any isolation, it's just a tone control. 
 I also got little more midrange from PS Audio's MWave1 setting (compared to sinewave).

 I remember when I was using Krell KAV-500i two years ago, the midrange was empty, but I found out it was because of the rubber feet which emphasized the bass. After I replaced the rubber feet with the more neutral Solid-tech Feet of Silence the midrange came alive.

 It is better to find the reason for the unfocused midrange instead of add a tone control to boost it up.


----------



## OverlordXenu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't care about the money, but I did some fast calculations. I have spent over $50k on my audio system, it would be over $100k if I bought everything new from Sweden.

 My 3rd system can be found for $10k used and it gives better sound than something that costs 10 times more!

 Audiophiles who have spent $$$$$$ on their system don't like it so they try to ignore the truth, they try to justify their purchases. But they don't realize they are lucky since they can just sell their gear. I can't sell mine since I mutilated everything in order to find the truth. 
 Maybe audiophiles only care about the price tag and not how good it sounds. I'm not an audiophile then, because I only care about better sound and I get that for a cheaper cost. People don't want to believe that a $975 DAC is so good._

 

Holy ****, Patrick actually sounds reasonable. I don't agree with his tweaks, but I agree with his statement...


----------



## Marc303

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got emphasized midrange from the steel balls of Solid-tech Rack of Silence, it doesn't have any isolation, it's just a tone control. 
 I also got little more midrange from PS Audio's MWave1 setting (compared to sinewave).

 I remember when I was using Krell KAV-500i two years ago, the midrange was empty, but I found out it was because of the rubber feet which emphasized the bass. After I replaced the rubber feet with the more neutral Solid-tech Feet of Silence the midrange came alive.

 It is better to find the reason for the unfocused midrange instead of add a tone control to boost it up._

 

it isnt unfocused , it is slightly recessed with female vocals , the voice sits behind the music.

 Its probably to do with monitor audio GR20 speakers Im using but ill have a play with the feet on my amp/cd and see what happens

 cheers


----------



## Sovkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chesebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like your style. There is nothing wrong with enjoying the process of tweaking whether it actually makes an audible difference or not (I am sure it does in your case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Sometimes even I get into the tweaker mode and it's very addicting, very rewarding, and very fun to do. The flip side is tweaking takes extremely long time (I sometimes tweak away for hrs without knowing), and the results maybe inaudible to anyone else but you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Keep it up Patrik!!!_

 

It seems that you still don't get it, with all due respect, Patrick doesn't like sound, he doesn't like music, he doesn't like even tweaking, he only likes to get the attention of others, and trust me that he is getting good by day....

 Are you going to tell me that these pics are really from a sane person setup??? Probably he removes all this crap from all over the amps, and cables after taking the pictures...


----------



## monolith

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sovkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It seems that you still don't get it, with all due respect, Patrick doesn't like sound, he doesn't like music, he doesn't like even tweaking, he only likes to get the attention of others, and trust me that he is getting good by day....

 Are you going to tell me that these pics are really from a sane person setup??? Probably he removes all this crap from all over the amps, and cables after taking the pictures... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

That or he prefers listening to his system over looking at it...?


----------



## Patrick82

Who is more insane, the one who spends his time looking at his audio system, or the one who spends his time listening to it?


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Magix adds low-level detail while Valhalla power cord removes it. The reduction in brightness is about the same. I would spend my money on Magix before Valhalla because Magix improves the sound instead of covers it up. Magix and ERS Paper are the real tweaks with no weaknesses. Valhalla is just a band-aid for too much low-level detail and brightness, when you remove them you get the illusion of less muddiness, it makes it sound clean. Who wants too much noisy low-level detail anyway? Just remove it with Valhalla and you get fake transparency, it messes up the sound but it makes it sound like real life. Valhalla is the only band-aid in my system, everything else improve the performance. For the interconnects I only needed to add 15cm of Valhalla bandit to remove the low-level detail and make it edgier and cleaner. Using a full Valkyrja for the interconnects had more low-level detail but it was too warm and fatiguing, it didn't sound like real life because there was too much low-level detail. But with Valhalla, I'm listening to real life._

 

In my system the valkyrja is just right and it sounds very lifelike!

 I didn't use any paper but high end grade caps. These make without a doubt a bigger difference then ers paper ever could!

 Also, my background is pitch black, without using ers paper. Instead of tweaking with bandaids, you could better replace more important parts of the system like caps, resistors or even power transformers!

 The transformation was like night and day and the system now sounds very lifelike and real.

 In a while i am going to try some fibration reduction stuff myself but i bet it's quite marginal, if any. Nowhere near the transformation as actually swapping active parts (components) in a system!


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Magix adds low-level detail while Valhalla power cord removes it. The reduction in brightness is about the same. I would spend my money on Magix before Valhalla because Magix improves the sound instead of covers it up. Magix and ERS Paper are the real tweaks with no weaknesses. Valhalla is just a band-aid for too much low-level detail and brightness, when you remove them you get the illusion of less muddiness, it makes it sound clean. Who wants too much noisy low-level detail anyway? Just remove it with Valhalla and you get fake transparency, it messes up the sound but it makes it sound like real life. Valhalla is the only band-aid in my system, everything else improve the performance. For the interconnects I only needed to add 15cm of Valhalla bandit to remove the low-level detail and make it edgier and cleaner. Using a full Valkyrja for the interconnects had more low-level detail but it was too warm and fatiguing, it didn't sound like real life because there was too much low-level detail. But with Valhalla, I'm listening to real life._

 

oppps, still no delete button on head-fi?!


----------



## ingwe

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who is more insane, the one who spends his time looking at his audio system, or the one who spends his time listening to it?_

 

Now, *thats* deep! Very zen.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In my system the valkyrja is just right and it sounds very lifelike!

 I didn't use any paper but high end grade caps. These make without a doubt a bigger difference then ers paper ever could!

 Also, my background is pitch black, without using ers paper. Instead of tweaking with bandaids, you could better replace more important parts of the system like caps, resistors or even power transformers!

 The transformation was like night and day and the system now sounds very lifelike and real.

 In a while i am going to try some fibration reduction stuff myself but i bet it's quite marginal, if any. Nowhere near the transformation as actually swapping active parts (components) in a system!_

 

My 1st and 2nd system the background was dead black because I was using fat Valhalla power cords that were hiding low-level detail. When I modified them thinner I got more low-level detail but the background wasn't black anymore, but when I wrapped them in ERS Paper the background was black again, plus I got even more low-level detail. ERS Paper gave true blackness.

 The ICEpower amp I have now is already modified by Underwoodhifi with Blackgate caps and other stuff. I haven't tried ICEpower with stock caps so I don't know the difference.


----------



## Sovkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Who is more insane, the one who spends his time looking at his audio system, or the one who spends his time listening to it?_

 

Listening? Howm uch real time you spend listening it, unless you live in another dimmnesion, with more thna 24 hours a day...you spend hours tweaking it and posting pics here, and trying to figure out the next attraction for the next thread, not sure how much time left you have for real listening, after that, a couple of meals, a shower, 8 hours work, traveling, shooping, and some sleeping...!!!


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sovkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Listening? Howm uch real time you spend listening it, unless you live in another dimmnesion, with more thna 24 hours a day...you spend hours tweaking it and posting pics here, and trying to figure out the next attraction for the next thread, not sure how much time left you have for real listening, after that, a couple of meals, a shower, 8 hours work, traveling, shooping, and some sleeping...!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I don't work or shower, I do audio 24/7. I don't travel, the only shopping I do is for my next audio tweak that I buy online. I even dream about audio at night. When I sit at the computer I spend the time writing into my tweaking logs. I only go to toilet because the sticky chair would become a distraction otherwise. I shower when the smell interferes with my concentration, since I got a lot of practice I don't need to shower for a long time. When I'm hungry I eat some food. When I walk into the kitchen I practice my walking + listening technique to improve my hearing. When I walk I rotate and tilt my head slowly because it improves the soundstage accuracy. I also walk smoothly and quietly because I don't want loud thumps in my ears.


----------



## Sovkiller

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't work or shower, I do audio 24/7. I don't travel, the only shopping I do is for my next audio tweak that I buy online. I even dream about audio at night. When I sit at the computer I spend the time writing into my tweaking logs. I only go to toilet because the sticky chair would become a distraction otherwise. I shower when the smell interferes with my concentration. When I'm hungry I eat some food. When I walk into the kitchen I practice my walking + listening technique to improve my hearing. When I walk I rotate and tilt my head slowly because it improves the soundstage accuracy. I also walk smoothly and quietly because I don't want loud thumps in my ears._

 

If you don't work where did you get the money for the tweaks??? Well I think that now went back to square one, to my original belief, from daddy's wallet...Not in vane is spent so carelessly....


----------



## monolith

I'm pretty sure he's said a lot of times that he used his life's savings.

 Maybe he used to work?


----------



## manaox2

Well... This is EASILY the craziest thing I've seen since joining this forum. It makes a lot of things seem sane in comparison. I don't know what to say. The only thing to pop into my mind at first was shocked expletives. I am really struggling to hold my tongue.

 I think I should say this. If you have spent this much time listening and doing these tweaks, you should be a professional audio advisor. Get paid for advice. Sell designs for audio products or something. I am sure that you know some cheap tweaks that could be integrated into a product to cause a lot of people in forums like this to be amazed. People would probably actually end up DONATING equipment to you.

 Still the craziest thing I've ever seen. Can you actually explain why all of that works?


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Get paid for advice._

 

Only snake oil salesmen take paid for advice because their flawed advice is unique and can't be found anywhere else. But truth can be found everywhere, and that's why it's for free. Eventually everyone will reach the same conclusions.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you actually explain why all of that works?_

 

Imagine yourself running outside on a trail in the forest. You are there running and suddenly an earthquake starts, it's a little shaky but you can keep running even if you get a headache. Then you notice rocks are falling from the sky and when they hit your head it sounds edgy. Suddenly you see lions chasing you from behind and they are chewing on you while you are running, it makes it sound faster but also edgy and fatiguing.

 As you can see, the earthquake is vibration, the rocks are EMI, and the lions are AC noise. When you fix the problems you get smoother sound and more low-level detail. But when you fix the AC noise with a power conditioner you get a little slower speed because the lions aren't there to boost up your speed anymore. If you have your trail magnetically levitating you can run faster and smoother than if the trail was connected to the earthquake, but the magnetic flux will try to suck you down, so it needs to be properly shielded. If you put a net around the trail it collects the rocks falling from the sky, but if the net is too close to your trail the rocks will still hit you and eventually the net has collected a lot of rocks which makes you get squeezed in between, it makes running very difficult. So you need to put the net a distance away from the trail to compensate for the weight of rocks stretching the net. After you do it properly you are able to run the trail without any external interferences.


----------



## LawnGnome

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Imagine yourself running outside on a trail in the forest. You are there running and suddenly an earthquake starts, it's a little shaky but you can keep running even if you get a headache. Then you notice rocks are falling from the sky and when they hit your head it sounds edgy. Suddenly you see lions chasing you from behind and they are chewing on you while you are running, it makes it sound faster but also edgy and fatiguing.

 As you can see, the earthquake is vibration, the rocks are EMI, and the lions are AC noise. When you fix the problems you get smoother sound and more low-level detail. But when you fix the AC noise with a power conditioner you get a little slower speed because the lions aren't there to boost up your speed anymore. If you have your trail magnetically levitating you can run faster and smoother than if the trail was connected to the earthquake, but the magnetic flux will try to suck you down, so it needs to be properly shielded. If you put a net around the trail it collects the rocks falling from the sky, but if the net is too close to your trail the rocks will still hit you and eventually the net has collected a lot of rocks which makes you get squeezed in between, it makes running very difficult. So you need to put the net a distance away from the trail to compensate for the weight of rocks stretching the net. After you do it properly you are able to run the trail without any external interferences._

 


 ......What? Patrick, your analogies sure are quite the stories.


----------



## Pibborando

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Suddenly you see lions chasing you from behind and they are chewing on you while you are running, it makes it sound faster but also edgy and fatiguing._

 

Dear Patrick,

 Thanks for being the best gimmick ever.

 Sincerely,

 Pibbo


----------



## Patrick82

My system has warmed up 1 month now. I thought 2 weeks was enough but not even 1 month is enough! After 4 weeks I started hearing more space in the recording, the low-level details are easier to hear because the ambient space is cleaner. I'm hearing openness but there is a certain sound signature I keep hearing in every album. I think it is the gold plating of my AC connectors.


----------



## bigshot

If your system being warmed up performs better, maybe your body will perform better if you stay up for two weeks straight.

 See ya
 Steve


----------



## Patrick82

Yesterday I went to bed and put my earplugs into my ears, then I heard a loud whisper, I don't know what it said.
 Today I woke up and I felt a little sick so I needed something to make me feel better. So it was time to slice open a 3rd Valhalla power cable to make an experiment.

 I didn't need to do any soldering, I just twisted the ends together.












 5.5 meters between wall and Premier Power Plant.

 In my previous experiments the longest cable I tried was 3 meters. Today I boosted it up to 5.5 meters, and now it is easier to hear what Valhalla does to the sound. 

 It removes brightness by toning down the surface which reduces dynamics, it makes everything flatter and more relaxing. The bass is smaller but boomier. It gives more oomph in the bottom end because there is less mid-bass. It is similar to the MWave4 setting of P300 Power Plant but more subtle.
 If there is excessive brightness it gives the illusion of more resolution, but in my system it just made it veiled. There is too much oomph in the bottom end now.

 Changing my Valkyrja interconnect into Valhalla would bring synergy but with the sacrifice of more low-level detail. Maybe a Gain Cell pre-amp is possible now when using a longer Valhalla power cord to add boominess, but it might end up equal.
 So when using the internal pre-amp inside Benchmark DAC1 with the shortest Valhallas gives the best sound, and it's also much cheaper.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My system has warmed up 1 month now. I thought 2 weeks was enough but not even 1 month is enough! After 4 weeks I started hearing more space in the recording, the low-level details are easier to hear because the ambient space is cleaner. I'm hearing openness but there is a certain sound signature I keep hearing in every album. I think it is the gold plating of my AC connectors._

 

*[size=medium]Warm-up is real[/size]
*

 My system was turned on for 31 days. I turned off my system for 4 minutes and back on again. I was surprised of the HUGE difference. All the low-level details were gone, the complex passages weren't there anymore, there was a layer of veil covering up everything. But everything sounded much smoother than before. It sounded good even without the low-level details.



*[size=medium]Removing adapters[/size]
*

 My amps were using gold plated Wattgate + adapter. I replaced them with a couple Oyaide P-037e. I got more low-level detail and everything got a little brighter. It sounded like the low-level detail was the same as when my system was warmed up for only a week. It is still not even close to 1 month warm-up.

 Warm-up of the system gives a bigger improvement in low-level detail than connectors do!

 EDIT: I replaced the Wattgate gold IEC connector for Premier Power Plant with Oyaide C-037 and now I get more low-level detail than I got with 1 month warm-up!


----------



## Patrick82

I put the 5.5meter Valhalla band-aid for my computer and the difference was HUGE! Previously I had 10+ meters stock extension strips and stock cables plugged into my computer. I added 1 adapter, 2 Wattgate gold connectors and 5.5m Valhalla into the path.

 Previously my computer was very harsh and edgy with mixed sound signatures because I'm not using any tweaks for it anymore. I plugged the 5.5m Valhalla into my computer and the Valhalla veil was covering up all the small sound signatures. It made it sound cleaner. I don't need tweaks for my computer anymore. I don't even need a power conditioner.
 There is no edginess or brightness anymore. The sound went from too cold into too warm just by adding Valhalla into the path. Valhalla is a good band-aid for a 44.1kHz computer with Toslink.


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My 1st and 2nd system the background was dead black because I was using fat Valhalla power cords that were hiding low-level detail. When I modified them thinner I got more low-level detail but the background wasn't black anymore, but when I wrapped them in ERS Paper the background was black again, plus I got even more low-level detail. ERS Paper gave true blackness.

 The ICEpower amp I have now is already modified by Underwoodhifi with Blackgate caps and other stuff. I haven't tried ICEpower with stock caps so I don't know the difference._

 


 Allright, i didnt know iot was allready modded. But, i bet of all the tweaks done, replacing the active components gives the biggest improvement.


----------



## Patrick82

With the 1 conductor 5.5meter Valhalla my computer sounded too thin compared to my Cary transport which uses a shorter Valhalla. So I experimented further. This time I joined all the conductors together to make a 5 conductor cable.

*Impressions:* It sounds much heavier. But stuff in the music are missing, it just sounds boom-boom-boom, it is very slow, the small bass transients aren't there anymore. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I liked the 1 conductor cable more, even when it was longer.

*Impressions 2:* It sounds brighter and colder because the Valhalla is shorter. It sounds edgy and heavy at the same time. The fake fullness gives the illusion of louder sound with more dynamics. It sounds more transparent even when there is less low-level detail.

 When not using any shielding the AC noise gives a special whiteness to the sound which gives the illusion of more transparency. AC noise makes everything thinner, but when using multiple conductors you get the heaviness back, and the edginess from AC noise transforms into smooth whiteness. But it's all fake. The thicker cable removes low-level detail, and so does the AC noise. It does make it sound like real life though.


----------



## manaox2

Ever think about experimenting with an "off the grid solution" using high power batteries?


----------



## Quaddy

well i just stumbled upon this thread, and all i can say is i think i am in love 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 can i room with you?

 we could be audio hermits!!


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *manaox2* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ever think about experimenting with an "off the grid solution" using high power batteries?_

 

With batteries it is hard to color the sound. Adding AC noise into Valhalla power cord makes it sound like real life.


----------



## tourmaline

I tested the quadraspire vinyl feet now and they made quite a difference in sound to my system. As they are only 35 euro's per set of 4, i think these feet are actually one of the less expensive tweaks that actually work and are affordable! I have a hard time believing that feet of 250 euro's a piece will have even more influence on the sound. These feet do considderably more then allready more expensive firbartion reduction feet.

 So, apperently i fixed for 35 euro's where you needed 1000 euro's or more.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I tested the quadraspire vinyl feet now and they made quite a difference in sound to my system. As they are only 35 euro's per set of 4, i think these feet are actually one of the less expensive tweaks that actually work and are affordable! I have a hard time believing that feet of 250 euro's a piece will have even more influence on the sound. These feet do considderably more then allready more expensive firbartion reduction feet.

 So, apperently i fixed for 35 euro's where you needed 1000 euro's or more.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My vibration isolation is $7000.


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Quaddy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well i just stumbled upon this thread, and all i can say is i think i am in love 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 can i room with you?

 we could be audio hermits!!_

 

As long you're a girl.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Quaddy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well i just stumbled upon this thread, and all i can say is i think i am in love 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 can i room with you?

 we could be audio hermits!!_

 

I was getting excited but then I checked your profile and saw that you are male.


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My vibration isolation is $7000._

 

Hmm, maybe you had to test some more products before spending 7000 quit on fibration reduction.

 But then again, it's you're money. If you're satisfied.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, maybe you had to test some more products before spending 7000 quit on fibration reduction.

 But then again, it's you're money. If you're satisfied.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

If a tweak doesn't add any weaknesses there is no limit of what I'm willing to spend on it. If a tweak doesn't burn up in a fire, you bet I'm spending my life savings on it! Magix is hard to build yourself so I bought a few of them, I liked them and bought more, now I have 18 of them. 
 Feet of Silence could be built from wood or something, maybe not, wood easily cracks and burns.

 Magix is the best thing for the price I have bought in my whole life. It's a great value because Valhalla cable burns, ERS Paper burns, but Magix stays!



 This is my list:

 0.1% = Normal upgrade
 1% = HUGE difference
 20% = Night and day

 Headphones: 35%
 Vibration isolation: 26%
 Valhalla power cord: 16%
 ERS Paper: 14%
 Interconnects: 4%
 Headphone cable: 3%
 Premier Power Plant: 1%
 DAC: 0.6%
 Amp: 0.3%
 Transport: 0.09%
 Digital cable: 0.01%


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If a tweak doesn't add any weaknesses there is no limit of what I'm willing to spend on it. If a tweak doesn't burn up in a fire, you bet I'm spending my life savings on it! Magix is hard to build yourself so I bought a few of them, I liked them and bought more, now I have 18 of them. 
 Feet of Silence could be built from wood or something, maybe not, wood easily cracks and burns.

 Magix is the best thing for the price I have bought in my whole life. It's a great value because Valhalla cable burns, ERS Paper burns, but Magix stays!



 This is my list:

 0.1% = Normal upgrade
 1% = HUGE difference
 20% = Night and day

 Headphones: 35%
 Vibration isolation: 26%
 Valhalla power cord: 16%
 ERS Paper: 14%
 Interconnects: 4%
 Headphone cable: 3%
 Premier Power Plant: 1%
 DAC: 0.6%
 Amp: 0.3%
 Transport: 0.09%
 Digital cable: 0.01%_

 

I agree on the first 3, having huge impact on the overall sound. However, going from a good IC to the valkyrja was also a huge difference!

 So, my list would be:

 Totally modding the amp
 headphones
 powercord/IC
 Fibration reduction.

 It's a toss up between powercord/IC and fibration reduction. They both made quite an impact.


 Actually, my powerplant made the sound worse(i would loose some detail), after totally modding the amplifier(about 60-75% new high end materials used). The better the filtering in the powersection is, the better it will sound without any external filtering! So, i am currently only using the filter for the dvd and television, since it cleans up the noise on the tele.

 But, i am using a passive filter. One that regenerates clean power could have some benefit, not sure now.


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If a tweak doesn't add any weaknesses there is no limit of what I'm willing to spend on it. If a tweak doesn't burn up in a fire, you bet I'm spending my life savings on it! Magix is hard to build yourself so I bought a few of them, I liked them and bought more, now I have 18 of them. 
 Feet of Silence could be built from wood or something, maybe not, wood easily cracks and burns.

 Magix is the best thing for the price I have bought in my whole life. It's a great value because Valhalla cable burns, ERS Paper burns, but Magix stays!



 This is my list:

 0.1% = Normal upgrade
 1% = HUGE difference
 20% = Night and day

 Headphones: 35%
 Vibration isolation: 26%
 Valhalla power cord: 16%
 ERS Paper: 14%
 Interconnects: 4%
 Headphone cable: 3%
 Premier Power Plant: 1%
 DAC: 0.6%
 Amp: 0.3%
 Transport: 0.09%
 Digital cable: 0.01%_

 

You could try the quadraspire just for fun and compare! 35 euro's is nothing for you and you might be surprised.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, my powerplant made the sound worse(i would loose some detail),_

 

If there is excessive brightness in the system a power filter will improve the sound because it tones down the brightness. But it removes detail. I have noticed that the only time a power conditioner really improves the sound is if it makes it brighter! When you get more dynamics you get brighter sound. Ultimate Outlet just veiled the sound, P300 Power Plant slowed down the sound and boosted up the bass to make it very warm and dark, but with the sacrifice of detail. Premier Power Plant is the only power conditioner I have tried that actually improved the sound. It made it heavier and faster with more dynamics, it was more fatiguing than the wall because the extra low-level detail made it sound brighter.

 It's not a good idea to reduce brightness with a power conditioner. When I'm using Magix levitation feet I'm not getting any brightness at all. 2 years ago I couldn't even listen to vocals because of the sibilance. A P300 Power Plant and fat Valhalla power cable solved the problem. But I didn't realize it was only because they worsened the sound.


----------



## TMM

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Digital cable: 0%_

 

fixed for you


----------



## Quaddy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was getting excited but then I checked your profile and saw that you are male._

 

oh dont be so old fashioned man, you never heard of a good old fashioned platonic relationship based on our common interests


----------



## Patrick82

*[size=large]Warm-up of system[/size]
*

 I'm still surprised of the huge difference warm-up does to the system.

 In the first couple hours there was lack of bass, but then the bass appeared. Within 24 hours it sounded good, but after 25-26 hours it got warmer which gave the illusion of dullness. It sounded dull between 1-5 days. But after 6 days the transparency started opening up. 

 I have heard the same things with all my previous warm-up cycles, they are accurate within the hour. 

 When it sounded too warm and dull between those 1-5 days I was considering changing the Valkyrja interconnect to Valhalla to make it colder, but the problem was gone after I let my system warm-up a couple days more! That's how huge the difference from warm-up is, one week warm-up is like a cable or connector upgrade.


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*[size=large]Warm-up of system[/size]
*

 I'm still surprised of the huge difference warm-up does to the system.

 In the first couple hours there was lack of bass, but then the bass appeared. Within 24 hours it sounded good, but after 25-26 hours it got warmer which gave the illusion of dullness. It sounded dull between 1-5 days. But after 6 days the transparency started opening up. 

 I have heard the same things with all my previous warm-up cycles, they are accurate within the hour. 

 When it sounded too warm and dull between those 1-5 days I was considering changing the Valkyrja interconnect to Valhalla to make it colder, but the problem was gone after I let my system warm-up a couple days more! That's how huge the difference from warm-up is, one week warm-up is like a cable or connector upgrade._

 

You cannot warm up a system for a week or so, if you have huge changes, there still might be an active part burning in!

 An amp or cdplayer will not change significantly between 2 or 1 week. If any, most benefit from active cooling.

 If the cdplayer or your amp is at room temperature, they'll perform at it's best.

 There has to be something else at play here, maybe a cable or other component.

 Tubes do sound different when cold, they perform better after a few hours when they are hot; this is not the case for mosfets or transistors in general, if any, you need to keep em as cool as possible. The lower the temperature, the better they sound or the more efficient they are!

 Remember that valkyrja and valhalla needs to burn in again if you didn't use em for a certain period, in the manual they talk about a week.

 I do agree on alot of stuff with you but not this one.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You cannot warm up a system for a week or so, if you have huge changes, there still might be an active part burning in!

 An amp or cdplayer will not change significantly between 2 or 1 week. If any, most benefit from active cooling.

 If the cdplayer or your amp is at room temperature, they'll perform at it's best.

 There has to be something else at play here, maybe a cable or other component.

 Tubes do sound different when cold, they perform better after a few hours when they are hot; this is not the case for mosfets or transistors in general, if any, you need to keep em as cool as possible. The lower the temperature, the better they sound or the more efficient they are!

 Remember that valkyrja and valhalla needs to burn in again if you didn't use em for a certain period, in the manual they talk about a week.

 I do agree on alot of stuff with you but not this one._

 

Maybe I'm not using the correct name for it. Maybe "refilling of juice" is a better name. Burn-in is something that you do the first time when the component is new or unused for a long time. When I turn off the component for 1 second and back on again, I need to burn it in again which takes weeks. I don't think it has to do with the cables. There is something going on with the capacitors. My ICEpower amp has been burning in for about 12 000 hours and my DAC about 23 000 hours. They are designed for 24/7 operation. When I disconnect the juice from the capacitors and connect it back again, there is turbulence when fresh juice starts rushing in. And then it needs many weeks of stabilization for the juice to remain still. When new waves of juice keep entering the capacitor it takes a long time for it to stabilize.


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe I'm not using the correct name for it. Maybe "refilling of juice" is a better name. Burn-in is something that you do the first time when the component is new or unused for a long time. When I turn off the component for 1 second and back on again, I need to burn it in again which takes weeks. I don't think it has to do with the cables. There is something going on with the capacitors. My ICEpower amp has been burning in for about 12 000 hours and my DAC about 23 000 hours. They are designed for 24/7 operation. When I disconnect the juice from the capacitors and connect it back again, there is turbulence when fresh juice starts rushing in. And then it needs many weeks of stabilization for the juice to remain still. When new waves of juice keep entering the capacitor it takes a long time for it to stabilize._

 

Right......
 1 second IS not even enough to significantly cool off any active hot components ( mosfets, transistors, tubes, caps etc.), that takes several minutes at least! And it takes also much longer to completely drain a cap!
 Some even 12 hours or more, hence the use of bleeder resistors, to drain the caps immediatly.

 Recently i totally moded my amp and loads, and i really mean loads of new caps in there, new cables, new resistors etc. Now, after 300 hours of burn in, the amp actually sound the same when i play some cd's and turn it off again and turn it on again. No changes anymore, if any, your caps will deteriate slowly. I am not sure it is soo good for caps to operate 24/7.

 Some designs even have bleeder resistors on the caps to completely drain the cap, if not in use!
 maybe it is these designs withut bleeders that benefit from 24/7 operation, since caps will wear because of turning on and off etc.

 At least my amp still sounds the same every time i turn it on and listen to a cd.

 What type of caps do you have in your amp? oils, teflon?

 I've never heard anybody claiming the amp sounding different after a burn in period!

 12000 hours! If any these caps are getting worse, not better! 12000 hours is way beyond even for the hardest to burn in caps, like teflon caps wich need at least 500 hours to fully burn in! Oils need at least 250-300 hours of burn in. That's it. 12.000 hours is wayyyy past any burn in of any active component.

 It is true however that caps can fibrate, hence most are tied to the pcb, to stop fibration. But i have a hard time believing it takes weeks to fill the caps, it doesn't.

 I can hear quite easally differences between cables, amps, turntables and cdplayers but i don't hear a differecne in sound now my amp has burned in completely. it sounds the same every day i put the amp and cdplayer on and listen to the music, the same cd's still sound the same, day in day out.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Impressions:* It sounds much heavier. But stuff in the music are missing, it just sounds boom-boom-boom, it is very slow, the small bass transients aren't there anymore. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I liked the 1 conductor cable more, even when it was longer._

 

Within the first week of warm-up I just wanted to switch back to the 1 conductor Valhalla because the low-level details were cut off very badly. But after a week the low-level details are acceptable. When listening to my tweaked reference Cary transport it seems that there is an overkill of low-level detail in my system now, and it doesn't matter that my computer's fat Valhalla removes some low-level detail. The fat Valhalla trades low-level detail for extra heaviness, it seems like I will keep it.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At least my amp still sounds the same every time i turn it on and listen to a cd._

 

Doesn't the sound change at all after it has been turned on for many hours?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What type of caps do you have in your amp? oils, teflon?_

 

Blackgates.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've never heard anybody claiming the amp sounding different after a burn in period!_

 

ICEpower amps are different technology than normal amps. I found a Bel Canto amplifier manual and it says this:

http://www.belcantodesign.com/pdfs/UG_eOneS300_M300.pdf
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bel Canto website manual* 
_Warm Up
 The amplifier’s sonic performance will start to stabilize after approximately *100 hours *of continuous power up. We recommend that the amplifier remains powered for optimum performance._

 


 BTW, I also found that a 3rd generation ICEpower module was just released. I bet PS Audio and Bel Canto will have new amps next year.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can hear quite easally differences between cables, amps, turntables and cdplayers but i don't hear a differecne in sound now my amp has burned in completely. it sounds the same every day i put the amp and cdplayer on and listen to the music, the same cd's still sound the same, day in day out._

 

Maybe I'm just insane.

 I asked others at PS Audio forum, no response yet: http://boards.psaudio.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4811


----------



## Joey_V

Patrick..

 Again another self-promoting thread.... ooh another valhalla tweak. Reading your threads makes me not even want to think about updating parts of my system.

 Anyway, I think you do this for the attention.... I found a link to a forum in which you pretend to not know what ERS paper can do for a system... 

 Very entertaining, Patrick.

http://www.hydrogenaudio.org/forums/...ded&pid=511820

 Do you do anything else other than stir the pot online?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Sovkiller* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It seems that you still don't get it, with all due respect, Patrick doesn't like sound, he doesn't like music, he doesn't like even tweaking, he only likes to get the attention of others, and trust me that he is getting good by day....

 Are you going to tell me that these pics are really from a sane person setup??? Probably he removes all this crap from all over the amps, and cables after taking the pictures... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't work or shower, I do audio 24/7. I don't travel, the only shopping I do is for my next audio tweak that I buy online. I even dream about audio at night. When I sit at the computer I spend the time writing into my tweaking logs. I only go to toilet because the sticky chair would become a distraction otherwise. I shower when the smell interferes with my concentration, since I got a lot of practice I don't need to shower for a long time. When I'm hungry I eat some food. When I walk into the kitchen I practice my walking + listening technique to improve my hearing. When I walk I rotate and tilt my head slowly because it improves the soundstage accuracy. I also walk smoothly and quietly because I don't want loud thumps in my ears._


----------



## i has a can

I guess the blog feature came just too late. It could have been a place for you to post without contaminating the main forums. Maybe when you come back for more in the future, you could just do it in your own blog.


----------



## archosman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joey_V* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Patrick..

 Again another self-promoting thread.... ooh another valhalla tweak. Reading your threads makes me not even want to think about updating parts of my system.

 Anyway, I think you do this for the attention.... I found a link to a forum in which you pretend to not know what ERS paper can do for a system... 

 Very entertaining, Patrick.

http://www.hydrogenaudio.org/forums/...ded&pid=511820

 Do you do anything else other than stir the pot online?_

 

Heehee...


----------



## Chu

I can't put my finger on it, but does the language "Patrick82" use on HA seem slightly different then the Patrick we know and love?


----------



## Patrick82

My system is warmed up 10 and half day now. After 6 days transparency appeared but it was edgy, then it got smoother. After 10 days it started sounding clean like there was nothing in front of the music.

 When I listen to 192 kbps mp3 I don't hear anything wrong with the synergy. I could keep listening to 192 kbps mp3 my whole life, it sounds that clean. When I try WAV with the computer it sounds too edgy. 192 kbps mp3 sounds the best with computer + Toslink! WAV is made for a transport with upsampling.

 I haven't listened to my Cary transport for many days because computer sounds better even with 192 kbps mp3, it's all about the synergy. I think the more revealing Cary needs 1 month warm-up while the computer is fine with only 10 days.


 I think I have said this before, and now it is confirmed. 
WAV sounds best with 192kHz upsampling + AES/EBU
192 kbps mp3 sounds best with 44.1kHz + Toslink


----------



## Chu

192 is an odd number. Most people go with 128CBR for legacy compatibility, or if they are willing to spend the bits just go for the --alt-presets (i.e. "new" VBR mode) which will average around 192 but spend it much better.


----------



## vcoheda

i love all the tweaks.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*[size=medium]Warm-up is real[/size]
*

 My system was turned on for 31 days. I turned off my system for 4 minutes and back on again. I was surprised of the HUGE difference. All the low-level details were gone, the complex passages weren't there anymore, there was a layer of veil covering up everything. But everything sounded much smoother than before. It sounded good even without the low-level details.



*[size=medium]Removing adapters[/size]
*

 My amps were using gold plated Wattgate + adapter. I replaced them with a couple Oyaide P-037e. I got more low-level detail and everything got a little brighter. It sounded like the low-level detail was the same as when my system was warmed up for only a week. It is still not even close to 1 month warm-up.

 Warm-up of the system gives a bigger improvement in low-level detail than connectors do!_

 

Those Oyaide connectors messed up synergy. I was afraid to get thinner bass, but instead I got more bass! I think it was because I removed the adapters. There was an overkill of low-level detail with too much oomph in the bass so I needed to change the Valkyrja interconnect into Valhalla band-aid. But the Valhalla messed up synergy even more, everything was very edgy, cold and fatiguing which gave me headache within minutes. But I found a way to compensate for that edginess, I changed the burn-in volume of my headphones from 48dB to 60dB which made a bigger difference than equipment upgrades. To compensate for the more revealing headphones I need to warm-up my system longer than 1 month.

 If you have synergy in the system then anything you do will remove that synergy, and then you need to compensate for it elsewhere by using many tweaks. I was very lucky I only needed 3 extra tweaks to compensate for those AC connectors. Now it sounds both heavier and faster than before, with the same low-level detail.


*[size=medium]Another warm-up experiment for computer[/size]
*

 My computer was turned on for 12 days. I turned it off for 5 seconds using the switch on the back of the PSU. When I listened to music again it sounded broken. Transients were harsh and bright but there was a smooth veil covering them up so they didn't sound harsh. The reduction of low-level detail was HUGE. 


 [size=medium]*Equipment upgrades = insignificant*[/size]

 Then I replaced my malfunctioning Antec Smartpower with a Corsair 450VX and I could still hear the broken sound signature, maybe it sounded little heavier but I wasn't sure. I don't think there was a difference at all. It is weird that audiophiles get impressed of equipment upgrades, they exaggerate a lot. They are also raving that a power conditioner makes a bigger difference than any source or amp upgrade, it does but I'm still not impressed of power conditioners because they add problems to the sound. I'm only impressed of Magix and ERS Paper because they aren't in the signal path, they don't hurt the sound, they only make the component work like it should. I don't know of any gear that work better when infected with EMI and vibration. Those tweaks will always be the best tweaks for the money no matter how much they cost.

 Like I said before, the gear are just there to make the tweaks work, as long as the gear have good measured performance and not high-end muddiness. Even my malfunctioning PSU sounded amazing, I only replaced it because my mouse was jittery.


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those Oyaide connectors messed up synergy. I was afraid to get thinner bass, but instead I got more bass! I think it was because I removed the adapters. There was an overkill of low-level detail with too much oomph in the bass so I needed to change the Valkyrja interconnect into Valhalla band-aid. But the Valhalla messed up synergy even more, everything was very edgy, cold and fatiguing which gave me headache within minutes. But I found a way to compensate for that edginess, I changed the burn-in volume of my headphones from 48dB to 60dB which made a bigger difference than equipment upgrades. To compensate for the more revealing headphones I need to warm-up my system longer than 1 month.

 If you have synergy in the system then anything you do will remove that synergy, and then you need to compensate for it elsewhere by using many tweaks. I was very lucky I only needed 3 extra tweaks to compensate for those AC connectors. Now it sounds both heavier and faster than before, with the same low-level detail.


*[size=medium]Another warm-up experiment for computer[/size]
*

 My computer was turned on for 12 days. I turned it off for 5 seconds using the switch on the back of the PSU. When I listened to music again it sounded broken. Transients were harsh and bright but there was a smooth veil covering them up so they didn't sound harsh. The reduction of low-level detail was HUGE. 


 [size=medium]*Equipment upgrades = insignificant*[/size]

 Then I replaced my malfunctioning Antec Smartpower with a Corsair 450VX and I could still hear the broken sound signature, maybe it sounded little heavier but I wasn't sure. I don't think there was a difference at all. It is weird that audiophiles get impressed of equipment upgrades, they exaggerate a lot. They are also raving that a power conditioner makes a bigger difference than any source or amp upgrade, it does but I'm still not impressed of power conditioners because they add problems to the sound. I'm only impressed of Magix and ERS Paper because they aren't in the signal path, they don't hurt the sound, they only make the component work like it should. I don't know of any gear that work better when infected with EMI and vibration. Those tweaks will always be the best tweaks for the money no matter how much they cost.

 Like I said before, the gear are just there to make the tweaks work, as long as the gear have good measured performance and not high-end muddiness. Even my malfunctioning PSU sounded amazing, I only replaced it because my mouse was jittery._

 

Biggest improvement will give either new, better transformer or a completely modded powersection throughout the amp, cdplayer or any other source. If your powersection of any amp or source is up to notch, no powerconditioner will improve sound, most likely will worsen the sound, as in my case.

 I agree with fibrationreduction, not sure about ers since i haven't tried it out yet!

 As most people report, for good amps with hungry powersupplies, conditioners only worsen the sound, they are too slow to deliver the huge amounts of juice needed for those amps.


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_192 is an odd number. Most people go with 128CBR for legacy compatibility, or if they are willing to spend the bits just go for the --alt-presets (i.e. "new" VBR mode) which will average around 192 but spend it much better._

 


 It's in the specs of mp3 compression.
 32 kbits to 320 kbits and in between, 192 is one em, like 224.

 I don't like mp3, since most have the 16khz floor. i hear some don't have it but i still rip to flac, wich is an exact copy of wave with about 50% compression to save space. Flac is exactly the same as athe original, mp3 isn't. Not at 128 or any other lower rate. Dynamics and higs are compressed.


----------



## Chu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's in the specs of mp3 compression.
 32 kbits to 320 kbits and in between, 192 is one em, like 224.

 I don't like mp3, since most have the 16khz floor. i hear some don't have it but i still rip to flac, wich is an exact copy of wave with about 50% compression to save space. Flac is exactly the same as athe original, mp3 isn't. Not at 128 or any other lower rate. Dynamics and higs are compressed._

 

I fully understand what patrick is doing. I am asking why because 192 cbr is one of the worst compromises in terms of space/algorithm/sq.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tourmaline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Biggest improvement will give either new, better transformer or a completely modded powersection throughout the amp, cdplayer or any other source. If your powersection of any amp or source is up to notch, no powerconditioner will improve sound, most likely will worsen the sound, as in my case.

 I agree with fibrationreduction, not sure about ers since i haven't tried it out yet!

 As most people report, for good amps with hungry powersupplies, conditioners only worsen the sound, they are too slow to deliver the huge amounts of juice needed for those amps._

 

Yes, if big amps have problems then small amps have problems too. My amp and DAC take only 10 watts and the differences are huge. Power conditioners are good band-aids to slow down the bright sound into muddiness and darkness. And Valhalla interconnect is a good band-aid to make it colder to compensate for it. Since both tweaks remove low-level detail the background appears blacker and cleaner. If the power conditioner improves low-level detail then it's because there was too much brightness to begin with, and when it was toned down the low-level details became more apparent. It's similar to rolling off the highs to boost up the bass, it makes it worse overall.

 I only use Premier Power Plant to get the built-in multiwave and cleanwave. I used P300 Power Plant before and I liked it better than wall because I had tweaked my system to match the multiwave sound signature. It sounded very dark which was a good match for the edgy sounding Feet of Silence. But when I upgraded to Magix levitation feet I didn't get any brightness when plugging my system to the wall.

 Edit: Premier Power Plant also has filters separating each outlet. The improvement was similar as a Noise Harvester between the components. Noise Harvester is a better tweak than Premier Power Plant because it isn't in the signal path.


----------



## tourmaline

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, if big amps have problems then small amps have problems too. My amp and DAC take only 10 watts and the differences are huge. Power conditioners are good band-aids to slow down the bright sound into muddiness and darkness. And Valhalla interconnect is a good band-aid to make it colder to compensate for it. Since both tweaks remove low-level detail the background appears blacker and cleaner. If the power conditioner improves low-level detail then it's because there was too much brightness to begin with, and when it was toned down the low-level details became more apparent. It's similar to rolling off the highs to boost up the bass, it makes it worse overall.

 I only use Premier Power Plant to get the built-in multiwave and cleanwave. I used P300 Power Plant before and I liked it better than wall because I had tweaked my system to match the multiwave sound signature. It sounded very dark which was a good match for the edgy sounding Feet of Silence. But when I upgraded to Magix levitation feet I didn't get any brightness when plugging my system to the wall.

 Edit: Premier Power Plant also has filters separating each outlet. The improvement was similar as a Noise Harvester between the components. Noise Harvester is a better tweak than Premier Power Plant because it isn't in the signal path._

 

As long it doesn't limit the power.

 They are quite simple, they use caps and/or spools to filter certain frequencies, that's it. Every extra cap or any elektronical component will be heard in the chain. If the powersupply is good in your amp, you won't need any of those!

 Your powersupply filtering will filter out anything left.

 So, the audio industry created a need for a patch, while the problem really is in the powersections of the amp itself!

 Some high end amps have even filtering build in their poweramps, like mark levinson etc.


----------



## Patrick82

*Power conditioners make bigger differences than pre-amps*

 I was reading about pre-amps and realized why a jittery computer sounds so good with Benchmark DAC1 with the built-in pre-amp.

 When I used PS Audio Gain Cell pre-amp it sounded edgier than neutral, the bass was controlled but the oomph was missing.
 A year ago when I tried the pre-amp inside DAC1 the bass sounded sounded too boomy, grey, dull and muddy (there was too much oomph in the bass).

 To be able to use Gain Cell pre-amp I needed a PS Audio P300 Power Plant with MWave4 to boost up the oomph in the bass. I tried to switch to MWave1 dozens of times but it never worked. Oomph was missing every time no matter what I tried.

 When I upgraded to Premier Power Plant it only had the MWave1 setting so I couldn't replace the P300 with it even when it sounded better. Synergy was more important and P300 + MWave4 was the only tweak that gave the oomph that was required.

 After I changed the Gain Cell pre-amp into DAC1 pre-amp I was able to use Premier Power Plant to get synergy. Overall the sound was better with the DAC1 pre-amp + Premier combo.

 The built-in pre-amp inside Benchmark DAC1 is boomier than neutral and the Gain Cell pre-amp is edgier than neutral. It is interesting that the difference between P300 Power Plant and Premier Power Plant is bigger than the difference between a crappy pre-amp and a high-end pre-amp.


*Jittery transport is good for pre-amp of DAC1*

 I was reading about active pre-amps and found that they smear the sound in a similar way as too thick cables. They add fake body which covers up the low-level details and makes everything boomy and musical.

 If the transport has no jitter it makes the boominess sound grey. But if the transport has a lot of jitter it makes the boominess sound black. It's because the DAC1's pre-amp smears out the signal to make it sound fuller. This way it's possible to make it sound blacker than neutral and that is what I get with the computer, the more jitter the better!


*Valhalla interconnect for low jitter transport*

 I'm finally able to listen to my Cary transport again because it doesn't sound too grey anymore. It's because the Valhalla interconnect is colder than neutral and it's a good match for the boomy pre-amp of DAC1.


*Warm-up*

 My system has warmed up 1 month now and the low-level details are still improving every day. The biggest differences happened within the first two weeks but afterwards something was still changing.

 After 4 weeks the veil I used to have from the gold plated Wattgate IEC connector was finally gone and all I could hear was the distortion from Valhalla cable, I like it. But a few days later I started hearing a slight veil of the sound and it seems like it's from the Power Port AC outlet, so I will need to bypass it and let the system warm up a month again to hear the improvements. But first I will keep the system running a couple weeks longer to see if it keeps improving.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But first I will keep the system running a couple weeks longer to see if it keeps improving._

 

I was surprised that the system kept improving after a month of warm-up. After 5 weeks the magic started happening! The veil was reduced from the music and it sounded more transparent. I think 2 months warm-up is needed.

 But then on the 38th day the power went out in the apartment. It felt like being on a run for 38 days and then you suddenly see a tranquilizer dart fly at you and then you fall to the ground, and the last thing you see is men in white jackets standing around you, and when you wake up you are back where you started running from.

 I might be putting battery backup between Premier Power Plant and wall so I can warm-up my system without interruption. I already plugged my system into stock extension strips now, I was surprised of the small difference, stock cables are that good! Aftermarket power stuff just color the sound to the worse. But I still like the weak and hollow Valhalla flavor more than the neutral stock cable. After almost 3 years, I'm still in love with Valhalla.


----------



## ken36

[size=x-large]*GOOD STUFF!*[/size]


----------



## peelax

Quote:


 Patrick..

 Again another self-promoting thread.... ooh another valhalla tweak. Reading your threads makes me not even want to think about updating parts of my system.

 Anyway, I think you do this for the attention.... I found a link to a forum in which you pretend to not know what ERS paper can do for a system...

 Very entertaining, Patrick.

ERS Paper for improved audio performance? - Hydrogenaudio Forums

 Do you do anything else other than stir the pot online? 
 

From that thread (Patricks post):

  Quote:


 QUOTE(uart @ Aug 21 2007, 19:55) *

 QUOTE
 Ever since I first wrapped my system in ERS Paper 10 months ago I have had real life as reference, when I improved my system my ears were forced to improve as well. It made me hear more subtle sounds in real life. I could hear ants running on the ground and other stuff.


 Oh come on Patrick, surely that is a work of satire. That is just so funny I cant believe anyone could possibly take that guy seriously.

 I was quoting ValhallaPC from AVS forum.

 I found his ERS Paper videos:

 Part1 (Preparing): YouTube - Audiophile documentary Part 1 of 5 (Preparing)
 Part2: YouTube - Audiophile documentary Part 2 of 5
 Part3: YouTube - Audiophile documentary Part 3 of 5
 Part4: YouTube - Audiophile documentary Part 4 of 5
 Part5 (Listening): YouTube - Audiophile documentary Part 5 of 5 (Listening) 
 

And then (Some other guy's post quoted by Patrick):

  Quote:


 QUOTE(Febs @ Aug 22 2007, 01:13) *

 QUOTE(Patrick82 @ Aug 21 2007, 17:57) *

 I was quoting ValhallaPC from AVS forum.


 What a coincidence. "ValhallaPC" uses the name "Patrick281" on Youtube.

 Folks, this guy is a flat-out troll. Don't feed him.

 Patrick, go away. You're not fooling anyone. Go beg for attention on some other forum.

 I'm not him, I'm just a fan, that's why I use this name.

 I came here wondering if ERS makes a difference and I got my answer. It is a scam and works on placebo only, because moderator said so it must be true. Now I will save a lot of money because I don't need to buy ERS Paper and waste hundreds of hours installing it. Thanks! 
 


  Quote:


 I'm not him, I'm just a fan, that's why I use this name. 
 

How strange that person looks quite like you with a moustache? rofl

 Anyone still think tourmaline and patrick are different people?


----------



## MikoLayer

Quote:


 I don't work or shower, I do audio 24/7. I don't travel, the only shopping I do is for my next audio tweak that I buy online. I even dream about audio at night. When I sit at the computer I spend the time writing into my tweaking logs. I only go to toilet because the sticky chair would become a distraction otherwise. I shower when the smell interferes with my concentration, since I got a lot of practice I don't need to shower for a long time. When I'm hungry I eat some food. When I walk into the kitchen I practice my walking + listening technique to improve my hearing. When I walk I rotate and tilt my head slowly because it improves the soundstage accuracy. I also walk smoothly and quietly because I don't want loud thumps in my ears.


 magine yourself running outside on a trail in the forest. You are there running and suddenly an earthquake starts, it's a little shaky but you can keep running even if you get a headache. Then you notice rocks are falling from the sky and when they hit your head it sounds edgy. Suddenly you see lions chasing you from behind and they are chewing on you while you are running, it makes it sound faster but also edgy and fatiguing.

 As you can see, the earthquake is vibration, the rocks are EMI, and the lions are AC noise. When you fix the problems you get smoother sound and more low-level detail. But when you fix the AC noise with a power conditioner you get a little slower speed because the lions aren't there to boost up your speed anymore. If you have your trail magnetically levitating you can run faster and smoother than if the trail was connected to the earthquake, but the magnetic flux will try to suck you down, so it needs to be properly shielded. If you put a net around the trail it collects the rocks falling from the sky, but if the net is too close to your trail the rocks will still hit you and eventually the net has collected a lot of rocks which makes you get squeezed in between, it makes running very difficult. So you need to put the net a distance away from the trail to compensate for the weight of rocks stretching the net. After you do it properly you are able to run the trail without any external interferences. 
 

Regardless of his intentions, Patrick is a funny guy. His posts made me really LOL 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Patric, sorry if you are really serious about all this. Hope you enjoy whatever you are doing, self satisfaction is all that matters at the end.

 peelax, though I wouldnt conclude anything without following the case closely enough, I know creating an "alter ego" could be done very elaborately. I have seen it done a few times at other places


----------



## Patrick82

I cut holes into the walls and they forced me to move to another apartment. So I started disassembling my system. My DAC and amps are plugged to Premier Power Plant, my computer to another outlet with extension strips. My Cary CD transport was plugged into the Premier too but I found out it made it worse overall!




*[size=medium]Removed books from Cary CD transport = brighter![/size]
*

 It sounded open and quiet with more whiteness and less low-level detail. The whiteness was emphasized and it was fatiguing. I didn't expect to hear a huge difference like this! It sounded almost as bright as my untweaked computer + fat Valhalla. The difference from books seems to be bigger than different power cord thicknesses.



 [size=medium]*Removed Cary CD transport = silkier sound from computer*[/size]

 The Cary doubles the wattage draw of the Premier Power Plant. I found that the Cary made everything worse overall even when it had less jitter than computer!
 When I put the Cary in stand-by I got silkier sound. When I turned it back on it sounded bright and fatiguing, the resolution was cut in half. When I unplugged the Cary it sounded even silkier.

 To use the Cary again I would need a dedicated Premier Power Plant for it. So I unplugged the Cary and boxed it up. Computer is my main transport now and I move all the tweaks to it.

 Using extra boxes for the audio system hurt the sound more than improved it. High wattage sources are only good for loudspeaker systems because the speakers take hundreds of watts and the distortion masks everything anyway. But with headphone systems the difference between a 10 watt source and a 30+ watt source is huge!

 18 months ago when I used high wattage power amp and CD player it sounded muddy and edgy. But when I downgraded to 1/10th wattage Benchmark DAC1 and ICEpower amp it sounded very clean and smooth with more details.



 [size=medium]*Grounding experiments
*[/size]

 I let the ground noise travel through the whole system using a single point ground instead of my normal star ground, I did a few combinations and they were all bad compared to star grounding, they all made it grey, bright and dull, when putting the star ground back it sounded blacker, smoother and clearer!
 The worst brightness came when the computer noise traveled through the DAC. Brightness normally gives an illusion of blackness, but it was so bright and cold that it was masking all that blackness, I was hearing the same icy sound signature as when you leave headphone drivers unused for a few hours in the winter. It didn't sound like the snowy Valhalla signature because the sound was harder and edgier like ice!




*[size=medium]Removed books from Premier Power Plant[/size]
*

 Bass was gone and the midrange emphasized. The synergy was gone and I had to stop listening.



*[size=medium]Removed 20 sheets ERS paper tent above the system[/size]
*

 It sounded brighter and the resolution was cut in half. Synergy was the same but it sounded very fatiguing. The difference from books on top of Premier seemed to be bigger though.



*[size=medium]Put the books back on top of Premier Power Plant[/size]
*

 The synergy was back! The bass was back and everything sounded flat without any emphasis anywhere. I was more impressed of the books than from 20 sheets of ERS Paper.

 It sounded very good but after half an hour the brightness gave me a headache. ERS Paper was still needed!




 [size=large]*Old apartment*[/size]

















*[size=large]New apartment[/size]*










































 1) Changed from 44cm Valhalla interconnect into 15cm.
 2) Between Premier Power Plant and Toroid of DAC1, changed from 1m Valhalla power cord into 55cm.
 3) Added 3rd step vibration isolation for amps.
 4) Switched Rack of Silence and Feet of Silence between Premier Power Plant and DAC1.
 5) Removed Cary CD transport.
 6) Removed all grounding.
 7) Removed 20 sheets of ERS Paper above system.
 8) Changed Power Port in wall to stock outlet.
 9) Added Schuko adapter to the wall.
 10) Changed from 4 to 3 Magix for Premier Power Plant.
 11) Suspension shelf doesn't have enough springs so it isn't working.

 Step 1-5 made it better and step 6-11 made it worse.

*Impressions:* The shorter Valhallas made it sound heavier and stronger with more low-level detail and bass. But it sounded so warm that it was unbearable. The combination of extra low-level detail and warmth gave the illusion of noisy and dull sound. It sounded too brown.



*[size=medium]Added longer Valhalla power cord for computer transport[/size]
*

 Based on previous impressions the best combination is short power cords for amp and DAC and the longest for the transport. My computer was using 1 meter Valhalla power cable and I changed it to 4 meters.

*Impressions:* It sounded clean and the problem was solved! The reduction of detail and dynamics was very small.



*[size=medium]20 sheets of ERS Paper above the system[/size]
*

*Impressions:* The transients were sandier, sharper and smoother. The bass was stronger (faster and heavier). There were greater dynamics, it sounded both blacker and whiter at the same time. There was more low-level detail, the vocals had more information in them and it sounded more realistic because they were fuller. ERS Paper is so good that if it didn't puncture my lungs I would eat it every day!



*Improvement from old apartment:* There was more low-level detail and they were also thicker than before. It sounded both quieter and louder at the same time. The dynamics made me sick and my brain got swollen from it. The reason for this was shorter Valhalla cables because they don't veil the sound as much.




*[size=medium]Experimenting with different lengths of Valhalla power cord for computer[/size]
*

 After I burned in my system for 106 hours it sounded too warm again.
 I needed to add brightness somewhere but I didn't want to mess with the DAC and amp because the overall improvement was as big as when I wrapped my headphone cable in ERS toilet paper rolls! 

 For my computer I'm using 2m 1x16awg, 1m 1x16awg, 1m 5x16awg. I have a JuiceBar with 3 Noise Harvesters between the thin and fat Valhalla.

*1)* Removed the fat Valhalla from the signal path. Plugged the JuiceBar + Harvesters with a stock cable into the same extension strip as Valhallas are plugged into.

*Impressions:* It sounded whiter and blacker with fake transparency and less bass. After a few minutes the brightness gave me a headache! The transients were emphasized and edgy. Removing the fat Valhalla didn't give as much detail as I had hoped because the brightness was masking it.


*2)* Changed the 1m thin Valhalla into the 1m fat Valhalla so the total length was still 3 meters.

*Impressions:* It still sounded too bright but the brightness was smoother. Everything sounded heavier from the fat Valhalla! It sounded both warm and edgy which made everything appear more distinct. But it didn't sound clean enough.


*3)* Put back all Valhalla cables to make it 4 meters. But the JuiceBar + Harvesters were still plugged in further away from the computer.

*Impressions:* Cleaner with sandier transients, but it sounded too smooth, warm and dull. There was less detail but it sounded cleaner.


*4)* Original setting = Noise Harvesters close to computer.

*Impressions:* It sounded heavier with the Noise Harvesters closer. I liked this configuration the best even when it sounded too warm, so I had to fix the problem elsewhere...


----------



## Patrick82

Computer didn't have any tweaks because I used them all for Cary CD transport. But after I removed the Cary, I'm able to tweak my computer!

*1)* Put a Magix levitation foot under PSU of computer.

*Impressions:* New low-level detail I never heard before, it sounded deeper and quieter with more transparency. I heard details further away that I didn't know were there! Everything was full of hairy transients that were clearer and louder.


*2)* Removed Magix.

*Impressions:* Brighter and greyer. I couldn't hear the new details anymore because they were hidden in the background of the music. I didn't want to listen anymore, I needed Magix for my whole computer!


*3) *3 Feet of Silence -> wooden board -> 4 Magix -> computer case. The PSU is on top of the same wooden board on top of a Magix also.

*Impressions:* Everything was smoother without being greyer! There was more transparency and hairiness that was quieter than ever before! The lowest level details are less cut off than before, the decay keeps going until it is very quiet. But the quietness isn't dull, it is clear.

 After doing all of this my computer sounds better than my Cary CD transport ever did. I believe it's because I was able to separate the power supply and soundcard from each other using Magix levitation feet.


































*[size=large]Fixing grounding problem[/size]
*

 My system sounded better than ever, but nothing was grounded anywhere because this new apartment doesn't have a ground.

 I was going to buy a graphics card but bought a RGC-24 Ground Conditioner with the money. One RGC-24 made almost as big difference as star grounding to the wall with Valhalla power cords!

 1) Connected the DAC1 ground wire to RGC-24.

*Impressions:* Whiter, blacker, clearer, sharper, tighter bass. Bigger soundstage, more space, smoother and less fatiguing. More realistic. 

 The bass got pushed into the background because it was less boomy, the rest of the sounds became more detailed.

 There were more transients than before and they were clearer, whiter, smoother and more distinct than before.


 2) Disconnected RGC-24

*Impressions:* Something was covering up all the transients. The boomy bass was more emphasized than the whiteness. It sounded veiled.


 3) Connected RGC-24

*Impressions:* The bass got pushed into the background again and everything was clearer. The bass was tighter and still more distinct than before even when other sounds were in front of it.


 The transients with RGC-24 were the most amazing ever. With ERS Paper and Magix the transients become like fine sand, but they sacrifice blackness with greyness which makes it sound dull and dry. But with RGC-24 the greyness turns into blackness and the sand becomes even finer without becoming drier. It sounds like getting sprayed by liquid, but it isn't brown spray, it is clear spray.

 RGC-24 makes more positive improvements than ERS Paper and Magix levitation feet, but it also gives the smallest value for the money. After a couple days I borrowed some money from the bank and ordered 10 more of these. I won't be able to buy anything else for many years... That's how good RGC-24 is, it's my new favorite tweak!










*[size=large]Adding suspension spring for Premier[/size]
*

 The suspension shelf under Magix and Premier Power Plant wasn't suspended so I added an extra spring to lift it up.

*Impressions:* Heavier and faster bass! The thickness is fatiguing. The improvement is similar to a Noise Harvester, it makes everything sound bigger. The improvement from proper suspension under Magix was bigger than one RGC-24.


----------



## Patrick82

YouTube - Excited Audiophile - The first RGC-24 tweak (part 1/2)

YouTube - Excited Audiophile - The first RGC-24 tweak (part 2/2)


----------



## Patrick82

I have done a few more warm-up experiments and it further confirms my impressions.


*November 17 2007, 14.00:* Made solder joints for interconnects and power cords. Turned system on and off a few times in a day.


*[size=medium]Warm-up cycle #1[/size]*

*November 18 2007, 16.36:* Turned on system


*December 1 2007:* It sounded heavy, fast and loud.

 Turned off system for 3 hours

*[size=medium]Warm-up cycle #2[/size]*

*December 1 2007, 19.28:* Turned on system: It sounded very weak, quiet, harsh, smooth and open. I thought something was broken in my system! Music sounded off-sync because the headphones were cold, it was quiet and jittery. It sounded like listening to mono recordings instead of stereo, the soundstage was very narrow but still open.


 Over a week period it sounded different every day. After a week of warm-up the magic started happening.

*December 9 2007, 02.20:* Faster, heavier and sharper than ever before. Low-level bass transients were amazing.

*December 9 2007, 02.30:* Turned off system for 6 minutes

*[size=medium]Warm-up cycle #3[/size]*

*December 9 2007, 02.36:* Turned on system: Veiled, open, thin and smooth, everything was brighter than before but the veil was covering it up which made it appear harsh instead of bright. The blackness was gone and the low-level details were cut off. The lack of dynamics made everything sound flat and white. That whiteness was fatiguing after a few minutes.

 The transients were emphasized because the bass was missing, but the transients sounded broken. Everything was less distinct than before. The deep layers of soundstage were gone, only the surface layers were audible.

 Since the headphones were still warm, it sounded boomier than the last time the system was cold. It sounded horrible and I didn't want to listen to music anymore.


*December 12 2007, 07.00:* Still veiled but little whiter, blacker, smoother and with a bigger soundstage.


*December 13 2007, 00.01:* It sounded cleaner and smoother, similar to a gold plating sound signature. The harshness was starting to go away... I heard new sounds in the music but it was still boring.


*December 14 2007, 01.40:* There was way too much bass and warmth. It sounded darker but there was too much thickness and muddiness. It was fatiguing.


 In a 5 day period it went from fatiguing brightness into fatiguing warmth, that's how big the difference from warm-up is! After a week warm-up it is hard to turn off the music because it sounds so good, but in the first 5 days I can't listen for more than half an hour because I get fatigued.

 In the beginning of each cycle it sounded better than the beginning of the last cycle. This is because the solder joints are still burning in! I wonder if the system really needs 5+ weeks of warm-up or just 2 weeks. The last time I tried 5 weeks the improvements were huge in the first 2 weeks but were subtle the weeks after that. I believe it's the solder joints, I hope so...


----------



## vcoheda

you are the frankenstein of head-fi.


----------



## Arainach

More accurately, you're the reason for every single negative audiophile stereotype ever. I'm normally content to leave nutjobs to their threads, but there exists a very real possibility that someone new to Head-Fi could see this thread and run away in fear and disgust. I think it needs some sort of disclaimer.


----------



## manaox2

I laugh at a lot of stuff here, however I am very happy to know that we have someone who will likely try literally anything possible and report back. He has certainly made some interesting discoveries that proved true, I don't know what to believe though. Patrick will even brainwash himself if it would allow him to like what he hears more.


----------



## Patrick82

The difference between the built in volume control inside Benchmark DAC1 and Foobar is very small. They are equally good, they only have different flavors.

*DAC1:* Boomy and veiled from top to bottom The soundstage should be bigger but something is covering it up.
*Foobar: *Edgier and cleaner, but some information is missing. The low-level details are cut off too early, but they aren't veiled.

 The low-level detail was the same overall. DAC1 sounded heavy and veiled, while Foobar sounded thin and transparent.


----------



## Patrick82

Between 5 and 6 days warm-up the muddiness was reduced and it started getting more transparent.


 After almost a year I finally hear a difference from the CleanWave function. The difference between sinewave and MultiWave is bigger than before also, I no longer need to bend under the table to see what setting is used, because I can hear it! Also for the first time ever, I could hear a difference with the display on and off.


*CleanWave 60 seconds: *The whiteness and blackness transformed into smooth transparency, everything got deeper.

 After 72 minutes I did the 60 second CleanWave again and the difference was huge. I could also hear something subtle after 20 minutes.



*Sinewave:* Muddy, dull, lifeless, grey. Bass and highs sound empty. It is smoother which should make the soundstage bigger, but the soundstage didn't improve.
*MultiWave:* Whiter, clearer and emphasized highs. More space and cleanliness in the midrange. Everything was more distinct.

 Perhaps the MultiWave setting gives distortion and masks the dullness of the midrange, but I still like it more.



*Display on:* Brighter.
*Display off:* Smoother.

 It sounds like the display uses around 1 watt when it's turned on. Because the difference was 30 times smaller than when I unplugged my Cary transport from the Premier.


----------



## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_RGC-24 makes more positive improvements than ERS Paper and Magix levitation feet, but it also gives the smallest value for the money. After a couple days I borrowed some money from the bank and ordered 10 more of these. I won't be able to buy anything else for many years... That's how good RGC-24 is, it's my new favorite tweak!_

 

I wasn't expecting to get as big improvement as my first RGC-24, but I was surprised that I did. 


*From 1 to 4:* Smoother and more transparent. Silkier highs but higher quality. Everything sounded a little thinner and leaner than before. I heard deeper into the recording. It was a similar improvement as when changing from Toslink into Nordost Valhalla AES/EBU, but smaller.


*From 4 to 8:* Smoother and more distinct. There was less whiteness of the transients which made them less emphasized. It sounded a little boring.


*From 8 to 4:* Whiter high frequency transients. It makes the background behind it appear emptier and blacker because of less low-level detail. I liked the sound of 4 more than 8, but I just needed to get used to the sound of 8...


*From 4 to 8:* Less whiteness in the highs. Less emphasis of transients. More depth. Everything is more distinct without anything being emphasized.


*From 8 to 11:* I didn't seem to hear a further improvement, but I didn't switch back and forth because it would have taken too long.


*1 vs 11:* It sounds very weird. It's both heavier and thinner, sharper and smoother, louder and quieter... I'm not hearing any sound signatures anymore.

 More bass information that is very quiet, but it isn't thin and veiled like from other tweaks, it's thick and detailed. There are more bass transients and they are heavy.
 High frequencies are thinner and they have more information in them.
 More separation and clarity of sandy transients, they aren't veiled and dull anymore.
 The ambient sounds are smoother than before, and the sounds in front are sharper than before.
 Everything is more distinct and none of the sounds appear to blend together anymore, there are multiple ambient sounds which I previously though was only one sound.
 More low-level detail everywhere, more resolution.
 Soundstage is deeper.
 Less boominess and fatigue. More transparency, neutrality and realism.

*Conclusion:* Connecting 11 RGC-24 into my Benchmark DAC1 made the most positive improvement out of any tweak I have ever done, but it also made the smallest differences.














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## philodox

Ummm... so these things create a virtual ground? Why is more better in this case? Or are you using them to ground multiple devices? I'm confused...


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *philodox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ummm... so these things create a virtual ground? _

 

Yes, it's a virtual ground that is closer than the forest! A few years ago I dreamt of Valkyrja speaker cable running into the forest, but an animal had chewed it broken so I didn't like that grounding tweak.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *philodox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Why is more better in this case?_

 

Like with all tweaks, the more the better! 

http://www.acoustic-revive.com/engli.../rgc24_01.html
  Quote:


 900V/m was measured before connecting RGC-24 and 750V/m after connecting RGC-24. 
 

It the noise becomes 83.3% after every RGC-24 that is added. Then adding 11 transforms 900V/m into 121V/m, whatever that means. But the number gets smaller with more tweaks!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *philodox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Or are you using them to ground multiple devices? I'm confused..._

 

I have all my RGC-24 connected to Benchmark DAC1 because I don't want to turn off my warmed up system. The next time I will solder them to my amps!


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## Patrick82

My body got infected with a virus and I couldn't listen to music because there was too much phlegm all over the place. I didn't listen for 7 and half days! Now my ears are still blocked with phlegm but I'm hearing more low-level detail than ever before!! The difference between 10 days and 17 days warm-up of the system makes a bigger difference than ears blocked with phlegm!! 

 I didn't think the difference was this big before because I used to listen every day and I got used to the new low-level detail fast, so it felt like a small difference. But this time I didn't listen for over a week and I hear huge differences even when my ears are blocked with phlegm! It's amazing, I need to keep pausing the music to confirm if the new sounds come from the recording or from real life!


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## HumanMedia

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *philodox* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ummm... so these things create a virtual ground? Why is more better in this case? Or are you using them to ground multiple devices? I'm confused..._

 

Me too.

 I cant quite understand how they are connected, or work at all. I have an open mind about tweaks, but these dont even seem to have an internal logic in how they are supposed to work.

 There seems to be a disc that sits somewhere near the chassis, and a ground wire goes to the signal ground?

 How is this better than simply grounding the chassis with a ground wire to AC ground? And keeping chassis ground well away from signal ground is usually preferable.


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## Patrick82

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Patrick82* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Conclusion:* Connecting 11 RGC-24 into my Benchmark DAC1 made the most positive improvement out of any tweak I have ever done, but it also made the smallest differences._

 

*Impressions2:* The improvement in the bass is huge, I didn't hear differences like this when I experimented with grounding for the wall. With star grounding it got only smoother and clearer, but there was no difference in the bass, but with 11 RGC-24 the improvement in the bass was so big that it messed with the synergy in my system!

 With 1 RGC-24 everything got clearer and more transparent but the bass got thinner. It was because the ground noise from the amps was drawn through the interconnects and went through the DAC1. I heard a similar bright sound signature when I experimented with grounding through the system.

 With 11 RGC-24 the bass got huge. It sounds like they remove more ground noise than the system produces, so when the noise is drawn through the DAC1, it doesn't get brighter because the noise signal is very small. The longer the RGC-24 are connected, the smaller the noise signal becomes. After a burn-in period the bass becomes bigger.

 Or perhaps the noise stream is smoother and more constant with multiple RGC-24, with only one of them you might get big waves of noise through the system because the system produces more noise than one RGC-24 can handle, so it keeps pulling more noise behind the stream and it produces a wave! With an overkill of RGC-24, no waves are produced, it's just a calm stream instead.
 Having big waves of noise running through the system messes up the sound signal because the traces on the circuit boards are so close to each other, the bigger the ground signal the more brightness comes out from the speakers. It sounded like the resolution was cut in half. But with 11 RGC-24 plugged into the same component it is fine because the signal is smaller and more constant.

 For the best effect the RGC-24 should be spread out all over the system and putting it where the noise builds up. There might be traffic jams or collisions of different signals which produces big waves, so the circuit board paths need to be kept clean by putting multiple RGC-24 for each noise producing component. But maybe if the noise is pulled in two different directions it creates resonance in the system. The noise signal gets confused and doesn't know which path to pick, and since the nervousness results in his body shaking, it infects the system with vibration! Perhaps a single smooth stream is the best because then there won't be traffic jams and waves all over the place, and there will be no confusion or resonance.

 RGC-24 is the best tweak in audio because it gave greater differences than star grounding to the wall even when I lived one floor off the ground. With normal grounding the resistance is too high so big waves are built up behind the ground signal and not all noise from the system is removed. But with multiple RGC-24 the resistance is so low that there will be no waves to mess up the sound anymore. Instead of sounding bright and dull it sounds smooth and clear with more bass information.


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