# DIY Woody Grado/Symphones Magnums - A build diary



## Rav

*Preamble*
   
  When the HF1 came out way back when i was planning to do a full woody job on them, even going so far as to source some wood for the job, but never got started.  As it turned out i picked up some RS1s not all that long afterwards, so it seemed a little pointless by then.  Fast forward five or so years and i decide to have a look at Head-Fi for old times sake, after a long absence ... BIG mistake.  I had known about Symphones' Magnum upgrade service for some time, but it wasn't until a couple of months ago did i discover that Rhydon will sell a set of drivers on their own.  So barely a month after coming back to Head-Fi i have a set of v4 Magnum drivers and a burning desire to turn some wood.
   
*The Wish List*
   
  When i was planning to woody my HF1s i'd always intended to make the cables detatchable, so that's a given.
  Custom gimbals.
  Custom rod blocks.
  I'll probably get an off the shelf custom headband from headphone lounge, unless i score a sewing machine that will do leather...
   
*The Wood*
   
  Getting on to the wood, i acquired a small blank of mahogany that the chippie claimed came from the pier (being one of Brighton's Piers, i don't know which one.  It looks like it could have been a deck board).  Anyway, when it was cut it got burned slightly and turned a very cool colour in my opinion.  The only thing against it is that it's not wide enough to turn with the grain end on which i would have preferred, so they'll have a cross grain pattern.
   
  End grain:
   

   
  With my RS1s for scale:
   

   
   
   Now, how to turn one oblong of wood into two small, hollow cylinders? Well, i started with a hole saw mounted in a drill press, a little time and a fair amount of patience i ended up with this:
   

   
  Second cut:
   

   
  To be continued...


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## Rav

The magnum drivers arrived in individual plastic zip lock bags inside another zip lock inside a jiffy bag.  The drivers themselves are very nicely finished, it's hard to resist the temptation to wire them into an existing set of cups to have a listen.
   

   

   
  Moving on to the connectors, i wanted something that would be a more positive fit than a 3.5mm jack plug, but less bulky than an RCA connector (I've seen photos of an RS2 with factory fitted RCA's for cable rolling) as i'd be worried about the bulk on the end of the cable.
   
  The SMC (Sub Miniature, version C) connectors found on the HifiMan series seemed like the perfect bet.  I guess in hindsight that the 'miniature' part of the name should have given me a clue, because these things are tiny:
   

   
  You see that teeny tiny little gold pin in the expanded connector?  That's what the signal wire is soldered onto, or rather inside.  This could be fun. 
   
  I see that Doube Helix Cables makes and sells their own spec version of this connector, with a much more sensible soldering arrangement which i might try with my next cable, when i've given my wallet a little rest.
   
  The male connector that i bought is fitted from the rear, so in this instance from inside the headphone cups, so i can solder it up to the driver outside of the wooden enclosures and then hopefully bolt it in.  As a bonus i should be able to take the drivers and connector out quite easily should i ever want to try them in different cups.
   

   
  End on shot showing the pins:
   

   
   
  The mated pair, everything to the right of the nut on the right should be inside the ear cup:
   

   
   
   Next time i'll break out the lathe.  Same magnum time, same magnum channel...


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## 7keys

Very nice, I can't wait to see your progress with those cups. I'd like to make some myself.
   
   
  How much did you pay for the Sub Miniature  connectors?


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## chrislangley4253

subbed


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## Rav

Quote: 





7keys said:


> Very nice, I can't wait to see your progress with those cups. I'd like to make some myself.
> 
> 
> How much did you pay for the Sub Miniature  connectors?


 
   
  I think it cost me more in shipping to be honest, i couldn't get the male and female connectors from the same place (although if i'd have gone for crimped females i could have) so it added up.  I think they were between £3 and £4 per connector, and the shipping for the two came to around £14.
   
  --
   

   
   
  The hole saw i used wasn't exacltly a the best, so the wood that i was left with was rather rough and not particularly parallel, so it needed some attention to ge it to a workable state.  Fortunately i have access to a lathe, although it's really designed for metal, with a little ingenuity it seems to work for wood as well.  To be honest I think i'd be all over the place holding a chisel on a wood lathe, so the precision of the geared bed is a big plus for me.
   
  As you can see it's a bit small, so to mount the blanks i had to put a bolt through the centre and then mount that in the chuck.
   

   
  Whittling the sides down gradually, note the use of a modified allen key (or allen/hex wrench if you like) for the chisel.  I had to do this as the moving bed of that part of the lathe would hit the wood with the regular cutter.
   

   
  After a fair bit of time slowly taking off a few thou at a time i'm left with two of these:
   

   

   
  Partly by design, and partly by luck the diameter is almost exactly equal to an RS1, so one end won't get any smaller at this point, i'll just start to take away material from the rest of the sides.
   
  Marking out the ridge, and the line on the left will be the other end, everything to the left of that will be taken away.
   

   
  In certain places the cutter was chattering on the wood, i think where the grain goes across it's not uniform in hardness, plus it was getting pretty warm so i decided to try putting a little water on to cool things down, and it seemed to make the going a lot easier...
   

   
  This is where i'm at as of now, part way through the cut out where the foam earpads will eventually go.  Still need to take 3 or 4mm of wood off i think, but the rest of that cup (on the outside) is more or less as it needs to be. 
   

   
  This is a lousy photo, but the lathe was still and the wood wet, so it gives a good idea of the colour i might end up with...
   

   
   
   
  Until next time...


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## taiden

I love cutting cups on my old atlas mini lathe. Really fun piece of equipment. Looks like you're doing a great job there.
   
  My only piece of advice is that if you can make your cutter much more narrow, you'll have a really excellent cutting tool. Think of it like a parting tool for a wood lathe.
   
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_43nB2zTX8


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## alota

Sorry, why the connectors?
  hardwired cable is the best solution.


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## 7keys

Nice work, thanks!
  Can't wait to see how you make the inside.


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## chinsettawong

Looking forward to seeing the finished cups. 
   
  Wachara C.


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## Rav

Quote: 





alota said:


> Sorry, why the connectors?
> hardwired cable is the best solution.


 
   
  Because i want to be able to try different cables at a later date without having to de-solder every time, the solder pads aren't amazingly robst looking.
   
  Quote: 





taiden said:


> I love cutting cups on my old atlas mini lathe. Really fun piece of equipment. Looks like you're doing a great job there.
> 
> My only piece of advice is that if you can make your cutter much more narrow, you'll have a really excellent cutting tool. Think of it like a parting tool for a wood lathe.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_43nB2zTX8


 
   
  Thanks, i'm learning this as i go.  I ground the tool down some and fashioned a rest and worked it freehand for a bit, which was easier in the cut out for sure.  I think though that the allen keys aren't as hard as they could be, as they need sharpening quite often.  Either that or the wood is exceptionally hard.
   

   

   
  Starting to look like a Grado now, just need to take that end off and i might be able to start hollowing out the inside.


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## chrislangley4253

man, that stuff looks like purpleheart


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## taiden

Yeah, that doesn't look like any mahogany I've ever seen. It's gorgeous. I wonder if it's partially petrified from being in use as a pier for so long?


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## qusp

petrifying doesnt take millions of years as commonly believed, more like hundreds, but  can apparently be done in a few days with the right chemicals. however a pier is certainly not the right conditions and it would be somewhat harder to turn =)
   
  you chose the HE connector for price? mini XLR, lemo, hd800 type are all superior IMO. they allow larger gauge and also allow a proper balanced impedance connection. the HE connectors are OK for coax cables, being coax connectors, but it wouldnt be a connector I would choose willingly.
   
  looking good though, wish I had some woodworking skills, i'm making some speaker cabinets at the moment...I do not....


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## Rav

Quote: 





chrislangley4253 said:


> man, that stuff looks like purpleheart


 
   
  Quote: 





taiden said:


> Yeah, that doesn't look like any mahogany I've ever seen. It's gorgeous. I wonder if it's partially petrified from being in use as a pier for so long?


 
   
  Beats the hell out of me, I'll go with mahogany until conclusively proven otherwise.  I took a plane to the blank to clean off some of the weathered outer layer, dunno if it will make things any clearer:
   

   
  ...taken in evening sunlight, fwiw.
   
   
  Quote: 





qusp said:


> you chose the HE connector for price? mini XLR, lemo, hd800 type are all superior IMO. they allow larger gauge and also allow a proper balanced impedance connection. the HE connectors are OK for coax cables, being coax connectors, but it wouldnt be a connector I would choose willingly.


 
   
  Not really, mostly for their size, and as the plugs that will sit on the cable ends won't be too heavy and bulky (which is why i discounted RCA connectors).  If i don't like them i'll try something different.
   
  ---
   
  Small update:
   
  Finished turning the second cup, and trimmed it down to make sure that the dimension are ok to allow for Grado pads to fit.
   

   
   

   
  Had to cut it by hand since my lathe/chisel wasn't up to the task, still need to sand it down a bit, although most of that will be bored away in the end.


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## Rav

Took these with my tablet immediately after finishing with the second one, it was noticably browner to start with and has faded (if that's the right word) to that reddish purple since.


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## chrislangley4253

Quote: 





rav said:


> Took these with my tablet immediately after finishing with the second one, it was noticably browner to start with and has faded (if that's the right word) to that reddish purple since.


 
  dude, that is so bizarre.

 purplewood will fade from purple to brown, given time.. and your wood fades from brown to purple? I have never heard of that.


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## taiden

That's incredible. The grain view certainly looks like mahogany, but the color is mind boggling. Does it have a strange odor?


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## Rav

Quote: 





taiden said:


> That's incredible. The grain view certainly looks like mahogany, but the color is mind boggling. Does it have a strange odor?


 
  Not especially, i'm no connoseur but it smells like wood to me


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## taiden




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## 7keys

The color is wild, can't wait to see them finished.


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## Budgie

My speakers have Padauk wood trim that looks similar, starts out purple-ish and fades to a brown-ish color. Maybe?


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## Rav

Quote: 





budgie said:


> My speakers have Padauk wood trim that looks similar, starts out purple-ish and fades to a brown-ish color. Maybe?


 
   
  Dunno, when i was turning them they were brown, and now they aren't.
   
  Here's a high res pic with my RS1s (circa 1999/2000 i think) and a piece of mahogany for reference.  Taken in diffuse daylight, overcast day.


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## 7keys

They look a bit bigger than your RS1's.


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## Rav

Quote: 





7keys said:


> They look a bit bigger than your RS1's.


 
   
  I think that's an optical illusion caused by the distance to the camera, they're ever so slightly smaller in diameter at the thick (outer) end, and the same size on the inner end.  The only bigger dimension is length, but they'll get a bit shorter as the 'face' needs to be shaped and finished.


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## 7keys

Is there a mechanism on your wood lathe where you can trace the first cup as you’re turning the second cup to make a perfect copy?


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## Rav

A wood lathe would probably be a better idea right now, i'm using a hobby metal lathe and the going is slow. And to answer your question, no ... but that would be really helpful. A cnc machine would be nice too, but how much does one spend to make a single pair of headphones?  I might still have to get a wood lathe, as I've been having trouble re-mounting in the chuck squarely. I finally managed to drill out part of this inside of one cup with a forstner drill bit, which has allowed me to mount using the inside of the chuck, and remove the central bolt. Work is a bit slow tomorrow so i might be able to crack on.


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## taiden

Quote: 





rav said:


> but how much does one spend to make a single pair of headphones?


 
   
  do NOT ask me this question, PLEASE!


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## 7keys

Quote: 





rav said:


> I finally managed to drill out part of this inside of one cup with a forstner drill bit, which has allowed me to mount using the inside of the chuck, and remove the central bolt. Work is a bit slow tomorrow so i might be able to crack on.


 
  Pics please.


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## Rav

Ok then, time for an update.
   
  I got some decent sandpaper and incrementally went up the grit to see what the wood would look like, i think i stopped at 300 ish and it was pretty smooth...
   

   
  I think i was a little premature in doing so, but more on that in a bit.  As you can see i started to lathe out the innards of the outside end, but it was taking forever so i went out and got a 32mm wood drill and made a bigger hole, but don't seem to have a photo of that, so just imagine a big hole in the end there.
   
  For the other end, and as it needs to create a flat lip on the inside (where the mesh will eventually be stuck) i have a 43mm forstner drill bit, which is designed to make flat bottomed holes.
   

   
  This allowed me to mount the cup on the lathe chuck directly, something that with hindsight i should have done in the first place, but i didn't have the forstner but until this week.
   

   
  And mounted from the other end, working on the part of the cup that will hold the driver in place.  It needs to have a ridge as the driver is stepped slightly (see pic earlier in the thread).
   

   
  Once i had the dimensions right on the inside of both ends i hollowed out the centre with the drill bit first then the forstner, as it kept trying to spin out of the clamp.  I had quite a job getting them held firm in the drill press, as i didn't want to crush the more or less finished outer surface, but still needed a good grip to stop them from spinning (which happened a few times).  Next time i do this (har har) i'll hollow out the centre first, then i can mount direct on the lathe in the same place every time, plus i can grip onto unfinished wood so it shoudn't move so much.  One of the problems i had today was getting it mounted in perfect alignment on the lathe, as i've used various methods throughout the build, and it has cost some accuracy (one cup is a bit off centre).  If i drilled out first i would have had a better base line to work from.  One other problem is that i think the wood warped slightly when i hollowed it out, either from pressure or heat or both, so the perfectly round driver ends are now oval to the point that the drivers don't fit so easily.  There's a saying that's along the lines of, 'experience is something you gain after you needed it most', and this build has proven the point to me on several occasions.
   
  Anyway, i digress, here are the two cups...
   

   

   

   
  Test fitting the driver (well, the test fit was before i hollowed out the inside and it was perfect, this was a bit of a struggle since the opening is now a bit oval) ...
   

   

   
  If i'm perfectly honest with myself i'm not totally happy with how these have come out, they're slightly different sizes, and one is not as well centred as the other, and with the experience of making these two i know i can do better so i might start over.  I'll probably drill out mounting holes in these so i can fit them into a headband and wire up the drivers so i can have a listen, but i have a feeling that they might become the working prototypes for a (hopefully) much better built pair.


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## chrislangley4253

seems like it was a great learning experience. Maybe you should have saved that wood, but live and learn man.


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## Tangster

Quote: 





chrislangley4253 said:


> seems like it was a great learning experience. Maybe you should have saved that wood, but live and learn man.


 
  Looks like he's got plenty of that plank left.  Looks great, going to wax/varnish it or wait until the next version?


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## taiden

I used to do my cups on a toolroom lathe. I made a 'mandrel' out of 1/2" threaded rod, which had two tapered bushings made from a dense hardwood. I would cut my blanks close to round on the bandsaw, drill a 3/4" hole straight through them, and then mount on the mandrel. After profiling the outside (with my lathe converted to a tracer lathe) I would chuck up the cup directly in the lathe and bore out the inside.
   
  The reason for starting with the 3/4" hole was so that I could bore them out from there, and it would be mostly on center.
   
  Are you planning on finishing the cups anyway to see how they look? Dewaxed shellac + clear gloss lacquer is my goto for really nice pieces. Cyanoacrylate is great but doesn't have the depth or KABLOW!!! of the aforementioned finish.
   
  That said, there are 10,000 ways to finish a wood project and each of them is good for different reasons...


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## Rav

taiden said:


> I used to do my cups on a toolroom lathe. I made a 'mandrel' out of 1/2" threaded rod, which had two tapered bushings made from a dense hardwood. I would cut my blanks close to round on the bandsaw, drill a 3/4" hole straight through them, and then mount on the mandrel. After profiling the outside (with my lathe converted to a tracer lathe) I would chuck up the cup directly in the lathe and bore out the inside.
> 
> The reason for starting with the 3/4" hole was so that I could bore them out from there, and it would be mostly on center.
> 
> ...



 
 I started with the centre bolt to mount, but i think the bolts weren't totally straight which threw things off by a little. Also it wasn't easy getting the forstner bit lines up directly in the centre either. I think next time i'll hole saw the rough cylinders, then drill out with the 32mm drill, forstner all the way in (to the grille lip) and mount off that inside hole every time, that way everything should be in line. I do plan on trying a finish on these, i was thinking of starting with tung oil and going from there. Oh, and i do now have a working pair of headphones, pics to follow...


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## Rav

Right then, drilled a few holes this afternoon.  The mountings don't need to go all the way through...
   

   
  Borrowing the gimbals from my SR80s...
   

   
  The hole for the cable/connector will need to be countersunk if i am to use the SMC connectors, since the wall thickness is too great to allow any of the thread to be exposed.  In a way that's good, since less of the connector assembly will be exposed.
   

   
  Borrowed headband from my HF2s and suddenly i have a pair of headphones.
   
  After a little soldering i really do have a pair of headphones...
   

   
  The cable is a Grado extension cord hacked up (i've used bits of it for mobile mini-mini interconnects and other adapters). 
   

   
  I put a solder joint in just upstream of the drivers so i don't have to desolder the pads every time i take them out, but i won't show you that as it looks a little dodgy with no heatsrink or anything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  And modelled by yours truly:
   

   
  And yes, i am listening to them as i type this


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## tintin220

Nice work, this is probably one of my favorite threads right now. I would love to get a pair of cups out of that block, the wood looks so unique.


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## 7keys

For your first go you did a good job. How do you like the magnum drivers?


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## alv4426

They look really good and quite unique, I would love to have a set of those cups.


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## Trower

Very nice! How do they sound?


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## Rav

First impressions are that they don't suck, which is always a plus. I think they've got more bass oomph than my RS1s, and compare favorably in every other area, but they're only 10 hours old and i haven't done any back to back comparisons yet. Still getting to know them fully but i like what i hear so far.


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## 7keys

Your build has inspired me to buy a wood lathe. I'm looking around for one. I'd really like to make my own cups.


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## Rav

Sorry about your wallet...


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## taiden

Quote: 





7keys said:


> Your build has inspired me to buy a wood lathe. I'm looking around for one. I'd really like to make my own cups.


 
   
  Pick up the harbor freight 10" lathe. It's easily the best bang for the buck and will pay for itself the first time you make something. Also go for the PSI high speed steel midi lathe chisel set. Then grab some kind of chuck. About $400 in and you should be going strong. Upgrade to a nicer lathe later and use the harbor freight lathe as a buffer / finishing rig.


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## 7keys

Quote: 





taiden said:


> Pick up the harbor freight 10" lathe. It's easily the best bang for the buck and will pay for itself the first time you make something. Also go for the PSI high speed steel midi lathe chisel set. Then grab some kind of chuck. About $400 in and you should be going strong. Upgrade to a nicer lathe later and use the harbor freight lathe as a buffer / finishing rig.


 

 I was thinking about this.
   
  http://www.ebay.ca/itm/6-Tools-in1MINI-Classic-Wood-Metal-Lathe-Milling-Machine-Jig-saw-Driller-Grinder-/110883632888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d12df6f8


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## Rav

7keys said:


> I was thinking about this.
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/6-Tools-in1MINI-Classic-Wood-Metal-Lathe-Milling-Machine-Jig-saw-Driller-Grinder-/110883632888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d12df6f8



 
 Those look great on paper, but i've found that with tools you do tend to get what you pay for, with so many functions at that price point i would be very surprised if there wasn't a compromise or two.


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## 7keys

You're probably right but I thought since I don't have a drill press I'd need something to guide the forstner bit..
   
  I have to ask myself.
   
  "how much does one spend to make a single pair of headphones"


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## 7keys

What headband are you going to use as I noticed the Sony replacement band does not fit my SR60I's, it's too small.


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## parbaked

Quote: 





7keys said:


> What headband are you going to use as I noticed the Sony replacement band does not fit my SR60I's, it's too small.


 
  I think you need to heat it (hair dryer) and bend it to fit


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## Rav

I'm using the headband assembly from a pair of SR80s that don't get much use.
   
  ----
   
  It begins again...
   

   
  This time i'm using a different piece of wood (which i am 99% certain is mahogany this time).  It will be end grain instead of cross grain, and it's not as hard as the mystery purple wood.  It's still plenty hard though, and the hole saw did protest at being asked to cut it, although i think some of that was because the drill wouldn't go slow enough).
   
  The result:
   

   
  This time i decided it would be better to drill out the inside first, so that i can mount direct to the lathe chuck, and turn both ends so that they're aligned to each other much better.
   
  The forstner bit still struggled to go through in one hit, so i drilled out the centre first with a a 32mm large wood drill...
   

   
  I drilled that hole all the way through, then used the forstner bit to open out the inside to the lip where the grilles will sit...
   

   
   
   

   
  Then, mounting on the inside end (larger opening) i used the lathe to widen the outer hole and make the face flush so that i could turn it around to do the same on the inside hole.
   

   
  It's not going purple, but it's still a nice looking piece of wood.
   

   
   
  With a little time spent on the outside it's coming along, and the best part is that it's perfectly round and parallel, not egg shaped as my first ones were.
   

   
  I need to get the second one to this point before i start to do any complex shaping, otherwise i might get one perfect only for the second one to be too small to copy...


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## chrislangley4253

woah! that looks, really, really good man.


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## alota

i envy your ability


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## FallenAngel

That is beautiful!


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## parbaked

Quote: 





rav said:


> I need to get the second one to this point before i start to do any complex shaping, otherwise i might get one perfect only for the second one to be too small to copy...


 
  I like 'em like that!


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## grokit

X2, give it a spray tan and call it a day!


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## Rav

that's all very well, but the pads won't fit yet and neither will the beadband forks...


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## parbaked

Quote: 





rav said:


> that's all very well, but the pads won't fit yet and neither will the beadband forks...


 
  That's an issue! I do think with that grain it would look really nice kept simple.


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## Rav

Smallish update, forgot the memory card for my camera so this is only phone quality, mostly finished one side.  had to make it smaller than i would have liked since i wasn't very accurate with the hole saw...


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## Rav

Few more pics...


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## chrislangley4253

hey rav, how long are those cups?

 i recommend keeping them real close to 1.25


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## Rav

Inside endge to outside face is 40mm (give or take a few mil) and they're not going to change now that i have them both within a few mm of each other and sanded up to 600 grit...


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## Rav

One has now become two...
   

   
  Compared to the purple ones...
   

   
  And against the venerable RS1s
   

   

   
  One side came out a little darker than the other, don't know if it's the wood itself or the way i machined it and it got hot or something...
   

   
  It's not apparent from the photo, but the drivers are a bit more loose in these new ones than the purple set, but that's also because the purple warped a little after i drilled out the inside.  They are, however, both much better centralised.
   

   

   
  Needless to say, they looke pretty good in the sunshine, which is in short supply here in the UK right now...
   

   

   
  Next is the nerve wracking and rather permanent measuring and drilling holes for the cable exit and mouning to the gimbals, which i didn't do as well as i would have liked on one side of the purple set, so i'm going to take my time with these and try to make sure they're exact.  After that i can have a listen to make sure that they don't sound worse, and then it's into the dark art of wood finishing...


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## parbaked

Quote: 





rav said:


> It's not apparent from the photo, but the drivers are a bit more loose in these new ones than the purple set, but that's also because the purple warped a little after i drilled out the inside.  They are, however, both much better centralised.


 
  Have you considered using foam insulation tape to make the drivers fit snug? Thats what I have in my Martin Custom Audio woodies and the drivers are very snug yet can be removed to be re-wired or modded etc.
   
  This video shows using for installation (go to 1:40 to see taping/installing drivers): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9A6UwkQFTdg


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## Rav

Quote: 





parbaked said:


> Have you considered using foam insulation tape to make the drivers fit snug? Thats what I have in my Martin Custom Audio woodies and the drivers are very snug yet can be removed to be re-wired or modded etc.
> 
> This video shows using for installation (go to 1:40 to see taping/installing drivers): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9A6UwkQFTdg


 
  Yeah, one or two layers of electrical tape will do the trick in the interim, the final solution i'm shooting for will be grub screws from the outside like on the HP1 nd PS1.


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## Rav

I think i worked out a better way of measuring out the holes for the mounting, by wrapping a strip of paper around the outside, cutting it to the lenght of the circumference, then folding it into 4 equal lenghts.  At the two quarter folds will be the gimbal mount holes, and the half way fold is the cable exit.  I took my sweet time measuring and double checking on this set, plus looking at my RS1s to see that the mount holes aren't exactly half way along the lengh of the cup, rather slightly closer to the ear.  Either way, i tried to get mine in the same place, and it seemed to work well...
   

   
  The C forks get the full range of travel, more so than the HF2 which, being not as deep but with a wider rim touch on the blister much earlier.
   

   
  Mounting up, managed to get both sides drilled in the same place so both sides get full movement, which i didn't quite manage first time out.
   

   
  Not the tidiest of soldering stations (being my kitchen table) but the extra hands really pay dividends...
   

   
  I had some heatshrink on hand this time, so i made a rudimentary Y split and also sealed off the ends as they go into the cups...
   

   
   

  (high res)
   
  Suited and booted.  The headband is one i made years ago for my HF1s that i dug out since it's got more padding than the one that comes with the HF2.  It's not real leather, unfortunately, but it is rather comfortable.  Need to source some wire mesh to make the screens now, and work out how i'm going to finish the wood...


----------



## parbaked

Quote: 





> Need to source some wire mesh to make the screens now, and work out how i'm going to finish the wood...


 
  I suggest heavy gauge mesh. It's so sad when the screens get dented or misshaped on pretty woodies.


----------



## Alcaudon

Great work Rav, they look awesome!!!!!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  I bought the mesh for my woodies here: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/MeshCompany (they also have a web: http://www.themeshcompany.com/), great stuff.
   
  As per the finish... after several failed attempts of spraying transparent lacquer (every single attempt followed by a re-sanding of all the pieces 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




), I decided to use tung oil and I'm really pleased with the results. I really like the semi mate and natural finish achieved with tung oil versus the "caramel" look of the lacquer.
   
  Again, great work!, keep showing us pics


----------



## grokit

Very nice!
   
  Now how about staining it purple like the others?


----------



## Rav

Quote: 





alcaudon said:


> Great work Rav, they look awesome!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Thanks, funnily enough i came across that ebay site just yesterday. Tung oil is also on my list for basically the reasons you gave, i don't want to do too much, just bring out the beauty of the wood and give it some protection. Not sure i want to be giving them five or six coats,sanding between each one though that would take a week...
   
  Grokit ... don't get me going


----------



## Trower

Wow great work! I think they need a good oiling as well


----------



## chrislangley4253

those look great man!


----------



## KimChee

Nice work those look amazing!


----------



## chinsettawong

Very beautiful!
   
  Wachara C.


----------



## 7keys

Quote: 





rav said:


> Tung oil is also on my list for basically the reasons you gave, i don't want to do too much, just bring out the beauty of the wood and give it some protection. Not sure i want to be giving them five or six coats,sanding between each one though that would take a week...


 
  Great job!
   
  I hope you give us lots of pics of how you go about finishing them.


----------



## jdkJake

Very nice!

A hand-oiled finish would look most handsome, but, require a semi-annual oiling. Really depends upon climate and humidity levels.

Do you have any scrapes left? I would suggest experimenting on those until you find the finish you like. The various oils or even a simple shellac have radically different effects. Especially when the parts are so small. Regardless, any oil-based product will have a slight yellowing effect that can really add richness and depth. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Again, really, really nice work!


----------



## Alcaudon

If you want to have an idea of how your cups would look like with tung oil, here are mines: http://www.head-fi.org/t/576717/grado-modders-go-magnum/1665#post_8570145. I don't have pictures of how they were before the oiling, but they looked almost identical to yours right now.
   
  Regarding the re-oiling that jdkjake points out, what I do is to clean them from time to time with a soft fabric (as you would do with any other set of headphones) with a very small amount of oil on it (they look gorgeus when I finish 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). I don't really think they will need special maintenance, just regular cleaning. But, as jdkjake mentions, it will depend on climate so...


----------



## Rav

Quote: 





alcaudon said:


> If you want to have an idea of how your cups would look like with tung oil, here are mines: http://www.head-fi.org/t/576717/grado-modders-go-magnum/1665#post_8570145. I don't have pictures of how they were before the oiling, but they looked almost identical to yours right now.
> 
> Regarding the re-oiling that jdkjake points out, what I do is to clean them from time to time with a soft fabric (as you would do with any other set of headphones) with a very small amount of oil on it (they look gorgeus when I finish
> 
> ...


 
   
  I remember seeing those when you posted before, they look really nice.  Not sure if i want mine to go as dark as that though, after spending some time with them i almost want an 'invisible' finish, kinda like them just as they are tbh.


----------



## chrislangley4253

Quote: 





rav said:


> I remember seeing those when you posted before, they look really nice.  Not sure if i want mine to go as dark as that though, after spending some time with them i almost want an 'invisible' finish, kinda like them just as they are tbh.


 
  wax!

 only on the outside though


----------



## jdkJake

rav said:


> I remember seeing those when you posted before, they look really nice.  Not sure if i want mine to go as dark as that though, after spending some time with them i almost want an 'invisible' finish, kinda like them just as they are tbh.




Probably best to avoid an oil-based finish and go with a natural stain to bring out the grain and then finish with a light poly-based finish for protection. No need to oil after that.

Again, all wood is different. Even within species. So, a test sample is always a good idea if at all possible.


----------



## Rav

Not sure that this really justifies an update, but i've been trying out a test finish on an off cut and am fairly happy with the results.  Went with dewaxed shellac in the end, although i don't want a supershiny finish so i'm using a satin laquer.
   
   

   
  Depending on the angle and amount of light it changes colour quite dramatically, but then so do my RS1s...
   
   

   
  And up against the unfinished wood for comparison...


----------



## firev1

http://www.mother-of-tone.com/lacquer.htm Maybe Charles, might have a point there, I don't know. Really interesting thread!


----------



## Rav

Interesting, although i would hope that the outside of the can would have minimal impact on the sound, and at most the inside will get a coat or two of shellac...


----------



## chrislangley4253

Quote: 





rav said:


> Interesting, although i would hope that the outside of the can would have minimal impact on the sound, and at most the inside will get a coat or two of shellac...


 
  don't do the insides!


----------



## jdkJake

I think the finish combination is excellent. Very rich and dimensional. The grain has lot's of pop and depth. A very pleasing combination.

Unlike a guitar or violin body, the wood here is not serving as a resonating surface. Or at least I would not think that would be a desirable characteristic. 

In a guitar or violin, the wood chamber is integral to the production and amplification of the sound made of the strings resonating against the bridge. In a headphone, the cup should not contribute any audible resonant effects or at least strive to minimize those effects in a controlled and predictable way. Perhaps best controlled with the appropriate driver and associated response characteristic.


----------



## qusp

grados have very little by way of mechanical damping, most i've seen on the inside was a lump of black tack on the back of the driver with an obvious thumb print on it (accurately measured of course), I think its part of the reason people say they work best with current sources. I would think the wood and chamber will absolutely have an impact on the sound


----------



## jdkJake

qusp said:


> I would think the wood and chamber will absolutely have an impact on the sound




No doubt. 

My particular curiosity is the effect of a lacquered vice un-lacquered surface on the resonances of a wooden chamber built especially to minimize (or at least somewhat control) resonances. 

In violin construction, there is a very much pronounced (and hotly debated) effect on cavity resonance due to finishing, indeed, some say it is what gives a Stradivarius it's particular tonal characteristic. But in the case of a violin, the whole point of the body is to provide a tuned, resonating, amplifying chamber for the strings against the bridge. 

I would have thought the circular shape and thickness of a wooden headphone cup would work to minimize resonance while also providing a visually pleasing and easy to work with material.


----------



## Rav

Well, the nice postman put 2 large jiffy bags through my letterbox today, one containing 3 metres of mogami 2893 and a neutrik plug (ordered a month ago but out of stock) and the other some assorted heatshrink (ordered yesterday lunch time from http://www.heatshrink-online.co.uk/ - highly recommended if you're in the uk and need any).
   

   
  After a little cutting, soldering, fiddling and heating, a cable is made...
   

   
  I was planning on trying to use a heat shrink end cap to make the Y split by punching a couple of holes in it, but i couldn't get them big enough or neat enough for my liking to thread the individual sides through, so i resorted to regular adhesive lined heatshrink, 8mm 4:1 if anyone is that interested.  The cable north of the split has clear 2.4mm 2:1 heatshrink, which was only just large enough to comfortably thread the two wires through.  I also got some black of the same size and shrink ratio, but the clear stuff felt more flexible before shrinking so i went with that.
   
  Close up of the split...
   

   
  For now i've hard wired it in, since i'll need to make the cable entry hole bigger to accommodate the SMC connector, and i want to do that on a pillar drill, which will have to wait till i go into the workshop next.
   

   
  I'm quite impressed by the neutrik plug, nice and solid.  What you can't see here is the innards, which has a bit that grips the cable as you screw the end in, so the solder joints are isolated from movement of the cable.


----------



## parbaked

lookin' goood...


----------



## 7keys

These look great and inspired me to buy a wood lathe. I started a thread to try and get a few pointers from the experts.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/635202/first-attempt-at-grado-cups


----------



## thelostMIDrange

rav, fyi, that first wood is indeed purple heart and the 2nd doesn't look like any mahogany i've used. I'd guess khaya if pressed, it's a diff family from mahog I velieve and is harder as well. Could be a good choice however regardless. As you found, the purpleheart is super dense and tough to work, burns easy unless your tools are razor sharp. Any sound differences you notice? I'd predict the purple is a bit more strident?  Try making a set of the 2nd wood at 1 1/8" head to toe, you may find the sound more natural. Have fun and keep on truckin'
   
http://www.mcilvain.com/hardwoods/african-mahogany/


----------



## Rav

It's been a while since i listened to the purple set, but my first impression when i put the drivers in the browns was that they (the brown) were brighter (like the difference between flats and bowls brighter, but without doing an a/b i can't back that up).  I think i prefer the sound of the purple from memory, and i do plan on making another set, and also putting the drivers back in while i do the finish on the bown so i can have another listen with fresh ears.  Trouble is that it's got really cold just recently so working in an open ended workshop with no heating has lost its appeal slightly...
   
  I asked an acquaintance of mine who restores antique furnature and he wondered if it might be a type of cherry wood.  It really sands well, like super smooth at 600 grit, where the brown still feels a little rough, although the direction of the grain might be a factor there as well.  The brown wood has a very similar grain pattern (the little cross grain pores to be exact) to one of my sets of RS1s, so i'm quite confident that it is mahogany of some sort, the shop i got it from said it was (although i didn't ask for any providence or anything).  It's dense, but nowhere near as dense as the purple.


----------



## 7keys

Did the driver fit nice using the 43mm forstner drill bit,  I'm wondering what size I need for a good driver fit?


----------



## Rav

It needed to be enlarged afterwards on the lathe.  i could probably have used a 44 but didn't want to chance it being too big and the driver falling all the way in.


----------



## Rav

Well the gods of procrastination have finally smiled and i've started to finish (...erm) these at last.  I've had the shellac mixed up (it comes in dry flakes that disolve in spirits) for ages, but never got around to taking the cans apart to paint it on.
   
  Anyway, so far these have had five or six coats, sanded down between most coats (some i gave two applications between sandings).  I reckon i'll need another coat or two, and at least one more sanding as i have a few bubbles and other imperfections that i would like to get out.  The lacquer i chose is a satin matte, so i don't know how it will apply over such a sheen, might need to buff it with some wet and dry sandpaper or wire wool before i spray it on.
   
  These are a right bugger to photograph, as the shine gets in the way, plus they produce different colours depending on the angle they catch the light...
   

   

   

   
  I've been having issues with sourcing and then cutting the grille, i got some woven wire mesh (very similar to stock grado RS series mesh) but couldn't cut out a circle of it without the wires un-meshing.  I also tried some old metal speaker grilles (the hex perforated type) but my shears again weren't sharp enough.  By chance i found a pair of old car speaker/tweeters that looked about the right size with domed metal grilles (albeit with a dent in one, should be able to hammer it out though).  I sacrificed them for the cause to find that they are a _perfect_ fit - 43mm exactly.  They'll need cleaning up (i'll probably take the paint off with paint stripper and re paint with better stuff, or just clear lacqer if i like them bare metal) but you get an idea...


----------



## chinsettawong

That's very beautiful.  Congratulations!


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## chrislangley4253

Looking good! Really good!


----------



## dakwan

Keep it up! Couldn't wait for the result.


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## 7keys

Quote: 





rav said:


> Well the gods of procrastination have finally smiled and i've started to finish (...erm) these at last.  I've had the shellac mixed up (it comes in dry flakes that disolve in spirits) for ages, but never got around to taking the cans apart to paint it on.
> 
> Anyway, so far these have had five or six coats, sanded down between most coats (some i gave two applications between sandings).  I reckon i'll need another coat or two, and at least one more sanding as i have a few bubbles and other imperfections that i would like to get out.  The lacquer i chose is a satin matte, so i don't know how it will apply over such a sheen, might need to buff it with some wet and dry sandpaper or wire wool before i spray it on.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Nice work!
  The photo's turned out nice, you can see the grain clearly. 
  Looks like you took the pics outdoors?
   
   
   
  Anyone know if there is a thread on how to take pics of your headphones, I always have trouble with lighting.


----------



## Rav

Thanks all, pretty happy with them so far, although i'm doing some remedial work on one of them, the other i've put some satin lacqer on which has taken the glass like shine right off, i'll see about taking some photos later.
  Quote: 





7keys said:


> Nice work!
> The photo's turned out nice, you can see the grain clearly.
> Looks like you took the pics outdoors?
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yes outdoors, in evening daylight.  In an ideal world I think it's best on a bright overcast day, so there's no direct sunlight to cast hard shadows.  An SLR is ideal, but not essential (SLRs or other larger format - ie, bigger than a point and shoot will let you get those totally out of focus backgrounds) ... just make sure you get as close as possible so the subject isn't a tiny dot in the middle, and use a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate any shake (for which the good daylight really helps, as would a tripod).  I think i put in a third of a stop positive exposure compensation (slightly over exposed) for most of those shots as the camera was taking too much of the background into account and therefore making the wood too dark to see properly.  Your average compact should focus close enough combined with the zoom to get a pair of cans to fill most of the frame, and that's before any macro setting it probably has int here somewhere.


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## wje

Those cups just look crazy gorgeous !!


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## westinlennox

The fact that this thread went unupdated for almost 9 months has convinced me that my own mod projects can be finished as well  Your woodies look phenomenal man!


----------



## wje

Quote: 





westinlennox said:


> The fact that this thread went unupdated for almost 9 months has convinced me that my own mod projects can be finished as well  Your woodies look phenomenal man!


 
   
  I know myself, as other members would be quite eager to follow your progress during your build.  It's always interesting to watch how things go together to make a beautiful build in the end.  Or, if you're thinking of scrapping the build, I know I'd be interested in some of the parts, depending on what might available.  Thanks,


----------



## westinlennox

Sure! I acquired a pair of sr80is a while back, and have been meaning to try out a new headband and a recable, if not full-on wood cups.  I'd like to start a little small, and "test the waters" if you will.  If/when I finally get in gear on that project, I will be sure to post regular updates.


----------



## wje

Quote: 





westinlennox said:


> Sure! I acquired a pair of sr80is a while back, and have been meaning to try out a new headband and a recable, if not full-on wood cups.  I'd like to start a little small, and "test the waters" if you will.  If/when I finally get in gear on that project, I will be sure to post regular updates.


 
   
  Good to hear.  Your project should be pretty straight forward.  In fact, I have a pair of Alessandro MS1i headphones with just the comfy pads and I can't believe how good they sound.  I use a slight bit of EQ, and I've never touched the backs of the drivers by opening any of the holes up.  Others have done this to improve the bass a bit.  However, I've found that while there is more bass, it isn't the quality of bass that I'd desire.
   
  With your mods - cable, wooden cups and reviewing some of the various pad options, you could get by with about $100 - $110 in expenses.  This would make it about a $200 total project cost (including the value of your SR-80i headphones.)  You'll find that the sound you could achieve could be up towards something in the $300 or so range.  Not a bad investment by just changing a couple of items.


----------



## westinlennox

See that sounds awesome to me.  Better sound, plus I get to have a little fun.  I am also in no way opposed to tweaking the EQ a bit.  If it sounds better, I am doing it!


----------



## westinlennox

Quote: 





wje said:


> I know myself, as other members would be quite eager to follow your progress during your build.  It's always interesting to watch how things go together to make a beautiful build in the end.  Or, if you're thinking of scrapping the build, I know I'd be interested in some of the parts, depending on what might available.  Thanks,


 
  Okay, I know you are over in the other thread at the moment as well, but I wanted to make sure anyone else following this knew that I had actually lived up to my word   Here is a link to my current progress.


----------



## wje

Quote: 





westinlennox said:


> Okay, I know you are over in the other thread at the moment as well, but I wanted to make sure anyone else following this knew that I had actually lived up to my word   Here is a link to my current progress.


 
   
  We never doubted you.  What is that square piece of adhesive on the back of the magnet?  Didn't you have any Dynamat or blue tack?


----------



## westinlennox

Nope I have been low on supplies for awhile, so that is straight up 3M padding.  It is probably useless, but until I go out and buy Dynamat I stuck it on there as a damper.  I was wondering if someone would comment on that


----------



## ehlers

I really like the look of this! Have you worked with wood many times before?


----------



## bigandtall

My only advice would be to listen good and hard to the SR80 sound before you do anything. By the time I had modded mine completely, I couldn't remember what they sounded like... and honestly, I'm not sure that they sounded "that" much better. It was fun to do all of the modding, but in the end, I wasn't sure if it was all worth it.


----------



## chinsettawong

The fun in moddibg it is already well worth it. I'm sure.


----------



## awesomebob

Hi guys, my dad kicks ass when it comes to working with a lathe, and he has said that if possible he will turn me up a pair of cups, the only problem is that I don't have a pair for reference.... I have brought a pair of Koss Porta pro's to use for the drivers, but is it possible for one of you to give me the dimensions for the cup? and for the materials I was thinking aluminium, mahogany, teak, or ebony (if possible), what do you think?


----------



## awesomebob

ummm maybe I found them, would you say that these are ok to use for DIY wood cups?


----------



## chrislangley4253

What you've got there is an outer shell of a cup designed to be in two pieces..  Sorry I cannot give you a better idea of what you need, but that probably is not it.


----------



## wje

chrislangley4253 said:


> What you've got there is an outer shell of a cup designed to be in two pieces..  Sorry I cannot give you a better idea of what you need, but that probably is not it.


 
  
 Chris,
  
 I think his cup just uses a single piece of material.  In the profile shot, the wood color was removed so you could see the precise measurements of the prototype.  Had the brown color been applied to the whole image, it would have been harder to see the measurements correctly.  I think the term might be "cut away" for the view.


----------



## chrislangley4253

wje said:


> Chris,
> 
> I think his cup just uses a single piece of material.  In the profile shot, the wood color was removed so you could see the precise measurements of the prototype.  Had the brown color been applied to the whole image, it would have been harder to see the measurements correctly.  I think the term might be "cut away" for the view.


 
 Wayne,

 Look again. I'm pretty sure that diagram is only an outer shell of a cup. Look at the how shallow it is, and the cut-out for the cable.

 It is only a single piece, but it is intended to be coupled with an inner sleeve of some sort.

 I could be wrong.. I've been out of the grado scene for quite some time


----------



## awesomebob

Yeah I've seen where some designs have sleeves, but for me its pretty difficult to understand teh basic construction as I have only seen grado's online, I have never found them to look at physically.
  
 I know I need a lip for the foam pad, but I have not been able to find any dimensions for this, the cup internal diameter I was going to take from the porta pro drivers, the depth of the cups I figured would be between 1 1/2 to 2 inches, what would be a great help to me would be an idea of the wall thickness, and the gimble diameter... to be honest the more information the better!
  
 From what I read he higher end grados avoid resonance in the aluminium cups because of their size, if I could get an idea of what size this is that would be great, I only intend to use these at home with my starving student amp (in progress)!
  
 Thanks
  
 Chris,


----------



## chrislangley4253

awesomebob said:


> Yeah I've seen where some designs have sleeves, but for me its pretty difficult to understand teh basic construction as I have only seen grado's online, I have never found them to look at physically.
> 
> I know I need a lip for the foam pad, but I have not been able to find any dimensions for this, the cup internal diameter I was going to take from the porta pro drivers, the depth of the cups I figured would be between 1 1/2 to 2 inches, what would be a great help to me would be an idea of the wall thickness, and the gimble diameter... to be honest the more information the better!
> 
> ...


 
 Yeah, that's another thing.. these cups have no lips for the pads! Definitely not a complete cup design!
  
 I wish I had some dimensions for you. I do know that the ideal cup is usually 1.25" in length.


----------



## awesomebob

hey thats a help, I think the ones above are missing the sleeve, and I have also found that people mention that the aluminium cups are larger so that there is more weight.... I will keep looking......


----------



## Melvins

subbed


----------



## awesomebob

I found this, thought it was pretty cool....
  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0p8DYyKq6M


----------



## pwodarz

Wow that was incredible. Very impressive!
 What stops the drivers from rattling in the cups?


----------



## Rav

Sorry not replied for a while. Had some issues with the lacqer so i had to sand back down to bare wood and start again with the shellac. Weather has gotten pretty cold again so i havn't been doing too much lately, although i probably have enough coats to be presentable, but not quite as finished looking as the pics before. Might put a few more coats on before i reassemble them. Also need to strip the paint from the grilles and respray them.



pwodarz said:


> Wow that was incredible. Very impressive!
> What stops the drivers from rattling in the cups?




In my case a little electrical tape wrapped around the driver and friction. In an ideal world the machining would be exact and they would fit snug. Grado uses some super secret glue (no, it's not hot melt, and i'm 99% certain it's not animal hide either) on their wooden cups. For my next pair (ha) i plan on making some metal threaded inserts to hold grub screws, like on the HP1000s...


----------



## Melvins

were these never finished? what a shame


----------



## Rav

melvins said:


> were these never finished? what a shame


 
  
 Well, if by 'finished' you mean that i have no more i want to do to them, then no, they aren't ... but that's not to say that i'm not listening to them on a daily basis.
  
 I made up some temporary grilles out of a couple of computer fan guards, to at least make them look semi presentable as opposed to gaping holes in the ends.  I'm not too keen on they way they look to be honest, but i haven't yet gotten around to stripping and repainting the domed ones that i salvaged.


----------



## Melvins

rav said:


> Well, if by 'finished' you mean that i have no more i want to do to them, then no, they aren't ... but that's not to say that i'm not listening to them on a daily basis.
> 
> I made up some temporary grilles out of a couple of computer fan guards, to at least make them look semi presentable as opposed to gaping holes in the ends.  I'm not too keen on they way they look to be honest, but i haven't yet gotten around to stripping and repainting the domed ones that i salvaged.


 
 I think they look great! what type of wood is that? what driver did you use again?


----------



## Rav

it's mahogany of some description i believe, and magnum v4s iirc.


----------



## Melvins

how do they sound? do you have any other grados which you've compared them to?


----------



## Rav

melvins said:


> how do they sound? do you have any other grados which you've compared them to?


 

 Well, they get more head time than my Vintage RS1s and my HF2s combined.  These days i try not to do to much critical listening and just enjoy the music ... otherwise i end up spending too much money on things i didn't know i needed


----------



## capnjack

WOW! Great thread! Absolutely stunning looking Grados?


----------

