# Maverick Audio DAC/Amp



## seraphjei

Does anyone own this or have any experience with this product? I'm thinking about taking the leap and giving it a shot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Maverick-Audio-H...QQcmdZViewItem


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## SemiAudiophile

looks pretty promising with all those features...let us know how it sounds.


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## Meliboeus

Quite cheap, interesting features...i never heard about it though... 

 If you have te opportunity to get it...report back how it sounds


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## Currawong

The lack of full specs, including the DAC chip isn't the greatest, so it would be interesting to see some internal shots if you get one.


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## FraGGleR

Wow, looks nice. I wonder if it is based on the gigawork board with optional tube buffer that I saw on ebay. There is a thread about it here. If it is, the chips look to be pretty good, but the board might now be as nicely put together as some. The case certainly looks pretty and above the Zero. I think it looks nice than the Compass, but only time will tell if is actually better.

 Please post pictures and impressions when you get it in. This seems to be exactly what I am looking for which means there is probably something wrong with it...


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## FraGGleR

I have emailed them about the internal specs as I find the exterior design to be beautiful. Hardware specifications | Maverick Audio - Home of the amazing Tube Magic DAC + Headphone Amplifier + Tube Pre-Amp Poking around their website, they show a picture of a cirrus logic chipset that they say is the same as the xfi fatality soundcard. Don't know if that is a good thing or a bad thing.


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## Lazerboy2000

Looks to be pretty nice although it would be great to see some more detailed specs and a review. Keep us posted on how you like it if you get it.


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## FraGGleR

I got an email back from Ryan, who is the owner?/operator? of Maverick audio about the components. He sent a picture of the insides (that tube looks cool 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




), but said he would prefer not to disclose the D/A chip to protect his design from cloning. Pretty understandable considering how crowded the value market is getting. Doesn't help us estimate the sound quality, but it is a start. I have also encouraged him to join our forum here to get to know us, what we are looking for, and to allow us to get to know him. Here is the email and the pic he sent me. Hopefully someone with knowledge of the interiors of these things can take a peek and make some educated guesses for newbies like me.

 "We only use audio grade components in our DAC. For examples, R-core transformer, metal film resistors, ceramic capacitors and Japanese audio grade Rubycon capacitors, high quality cable with silver shield are used in the DAC.

 Attached is an internal picture of our DAC. Please note it is all made by hand, it doesn't look as good as those PCB boards made by SMT machine, but you can not make an audio grade product by using "SMT friendly" components.

 I will not be able to disclose the DAC chip model used in our DAC (to avoid other vendor to copy our design). We believe the analog output stage is as important as DAC chip. Ultimately, the digital sound will go through the analog output stage, same chip might sound completely different go through different analog output stage. We have spent a great deal of effort to design the analog output stage and we are very confident that our DAC sounds at least as good as some much expensive models."






 PS. If anyone could use a higher resolution image and not the resized one, let me know and I can email it to you.


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## atbglenn

Looks like a nice DAC/Amp for the asking price. Hopefully it sounds as good as it looks..


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## AmanGeorge

Definitely seems like it's worth someone taking the plunge, especially with free shipping and a 14-day money back guarantee. Who's up?


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## FraGGleR

I'd do it but I have no reference point outside of a Fiio E5 and my heaphones aren't really even midfi (HD25, AD700). Plus I think I might be on the smallest budget out of all Headfiers right now and can't really risk it. But goodness knows I want to.

 Ryan @ Maverick audio says they have spent quite some time developing this and have only just released it which is why it is so cheap right now.


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## Starky

Judging by the internal pics, its a Xiang Sheng DAC-01 in a different (and nicer looking) case.


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## Ruffle

Not disclosing what D/A it uses is bogus. As it's been said already on Head-Fi repeatedly, cloning a DAC is far more involved that just using the same parts. And if an engineer wanted to clone it, he could figure it out anyways.

 So if anyone wants to purchase, I'd personally wait until more information can be found about the DAC/Amp. Starky thinks it's a Sheng DAC-01 clone... personally would want to know what I was buying.

 For me as I been reading more about computer as source, jitter is far more of an issue than I believed. So for me personally I'd definitely would want to know if it used the digital receiver as a soundcard does that has more than 700ps jitter or if it uses a DIR9001 or a Wolfsen with 50ps or if it uses a CS chip with minimum of 200ps. I don't fully understand all the details but what I've attempted to glean so far has opened my eyes a lot. For any DAC used with a computer as source, I would want to know exactly what D/A and digital receiver and type of reclock it uses or an explanation of how the engineer tackled that issue. Check out Lavry's sponsor forum for more information, I'm still trying to understand it all.

 As someone mentioned before even HeadRoom and other companies provide great pictures of interiors and go into detail of what parts are used and how they addressed various issues. And these DAC's cost far more than this one. I don't accept the excuse for worrying about a clone as a legitimate excuse to keep a potential customer in the dark.


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## seraphjei

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Starky* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Judging by the internal pics, its a Xiang Sheng DAC-01 in a different (and nicer looking) case._

 

Yeah the resemblance is uncanny. I guess I'll hold off on this one too until there is more news on how it fares. Until then I guess I have to go with the Aune.


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## moodyrn

I 100% agree. A lot more goes into cloning a dac than knowing what dac chip is used. There are many dacs that uses both the same chip and digital receiver, but sound very different. I think it's deceptive not to let the customer know what they are buying. I think he has already lost some potential customers taking this approach. I was interested in biting the bullet and trying this one out, but not anymore.


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## moodyrn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Starky* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Judging by the internal pics, its a Xiang Sheng DAC-01 in a different (and nicer looking) case._

 

Wow you are right. Good catch. Even the specs are pretty much the same. The seller even states that the the name of the dac chip is scratched out. Wow what a coincidence.


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## FraGGleR

Is the Xiang Sheng Dac-01 any good?


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## Currawong

There doesn't seem to be much info on it. Here's one thread on it anyway.


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## Ruffle

Looks like Starky was correct. 

 But it's a good deal! $100 cheaper than Pacific Valve! But reason being Pacific Valve upgrades the tube used to a NOS 5670 to replace the Chinese 6N3.

 Picture from first page from Maverick






 Picture from Pacific Valve of the Xiansheng DAC-01 @ $298


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## FraGGleR

Pretty striking resemblance, although different chips and stuff could have been used. At any rate, even if it is a perfect clone, I haven't seen anyone who has tried the Xiang Sheng and can comment how either would sound compared to other things like an Aune or Zero or Compass. There is one Xiang Sheng on ebay right now for $187 shipped which would be the best deal of all (although if it were identical, I would still get the Maverickaudio since it is black).

 Maybe maverick audio would be willing to let one of the vets in these forums do an inhome trial to generate some feedback dialogue.


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## Vingard

This DAC/amp appears to be similar (if not identical) to Grant Fidelity's Tube DAC 09 (Grant Fidelity Tube DAC-09 Digital-to-analog Converter - MSRP US$390.00 | Grant Fidelity Home Audio). However, some investigation by the folks at Grant Fidelity has revealed some interesting information... What is the difference between the GF Tube DAC 09 and the Maverick Audio DAC/amp? - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums


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## moodyrn

Well that's not surprising. But maybe they both are rebrands/clones of the Xiang Sheng Dac-01. The GF was only released this month. The Xiang Sheng has been out for some time now. Also GF is already known for re branding other Chinese products(ex.various Yaqin tube amps and buffer), and selling them for much much more. Not sure which one is the original between the three but based on when each one was released, and past history, IMO both the GF and the MAV may be knock offs. But that's just my opinion.


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## FraGGleR

Hmm. So basically it is the same thing as the Grant Fidelity Tube DAC 09 and most likely the Xiang Sheng Dac-01. One factory, same multiple DAC's. From the post on AudioKarma.org, I couldn't help but think that the distributor was saying, yeah its identical, but maverick audio is shady, we are not, so buy from us. I don't know if its right to maverick audio shady, but it doesn't seem like anything was done wrong in ordering a bunch of DAC's and rebranding if there wasn't some sort of exclusivity rights done for Grant Fidelity.

 Still not sure what to make of it as we still don't have anyone so far that has heard any of them. Still think the Maverick one looks the best


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## Ruffle

Stick with Pacific Valve IMO. They are well trusted distributor of their products and they do have warranties and for servicing you deal with Pacific Valve. That's just my opinion if I wanted one of these DAC/Amp combos.

 And the slight increase in price from Pacific Valve makes sense to me with an upgrade in the NOS tube. But why get a re-brand with no obvious change or any disclosed changed. Just get the Xiansheng from a distributor with a solid reputation here.


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## FraGGleR

But I want one in black...


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## jmzzz01

Ok, I took the plunge. This is exactly what I've been looking for, and for $200, with free shipping and two-week trial, I thinks it's worth a chance. 

 I spent almost a year working in Sweden and came back at the end of March. I would have loved to have had a component just like this over there. Having a DAC and a preamp to allow using my laptop as a source for some speakers, that doubles as a headphone amp, would be perfect. When you're living out of two suitcases for that long, something like this one box solution would make it much easier to stay sane. Now that I am back home (and without a job), I have been looking for a low-cost preamp and DAC to use for my second system. Due to money constraints, I've had to sell my Rogue 99 Magnum and several other pieces. 

 I don't know if I have the golden ear that the rest of you have, or if I am as demanding when it comes to headphone gear. But I've seen more than a few here shell-out similar $$$ for low-cost headphone amps from China, and then replace all sorts of circuitry components. It's what many of you love to do, really, and that's great. But I would caution anyone right now, that if you think you are going to get something for $200 that will rival, say, a similar Ray Samuels product, you are mistaken. You can get a really good deal sometimes, but you still get what you pay for.

 It's good for us to be wary and critical, but at the same time, in this economy, I can see why a new upstart may have reservations about sharing his recipe. All of the established companies tell their basic components, but when its your capital invested in the launch of a new product, well, I can see why Ryan might want to be cautious too. I suspect that that will change over time.

 I'll attempt to do a write-up worthy of these pages, but I'm no journalist. But I think there would be nothing better than to discover the next really cool, inexpensive product, and with time maybe some of you can figure out some nice upgrades to make this an even better value. 

 Just to make it clear, I don't know Ryan, and have only exchanged an email via eBay asking about shipping and asking for a picture of the inside. I have no other experience with him, and am not connected with him or his company in any way.

 So, I ordered it tonight, just before this post. When I get it I will add to this post and then sometime afterward, after a little time to get acquainted and to burn it in, I will do a write-up. 

 I have HD600 cans and a Squeezebox v3 to try out with this baby. I'm looking forward to it!


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## priest

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AmanGeorge* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definitely seems like it's worth someone taking the plunge, especially with free shipping and a 14-day money back guarantee. Who's up?_

 

I think it's your turn, my man. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh wait! It looks like jmzzz01 saved you this time.


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## driftingbunnies

Do you think it'll be able to power some 600ohm cans?


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## FraGGleR

jmzzz01, you are the man. I applaud your decision and can't wait for your thoughts. I don't expect miracles, but if it can approach something like the Compass, which is supposedly a good value, then I might risk it along with you. Hopefully it is something that, stock or very little additional investment, can be something that I can grow with as a DAC when my headphones grow up and need better amplification.

 BTW, has anyone asked if it can be used as either a standalone DAC or Amp? Pretty important if someone is buying with growth in mind.


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## elwappo99

Any update? I'm curious!


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## jmzzz01

Just a teaser -

 I received my Maverick yesterday afternoon, only 3-1/2 days after I ordered it. That was pretty fast... it can take that long to get a domestic letter. It's smaller than I thought it would be, but looks nice. All the switches have a nice feel to them and the volume control is stepped, something I wasn't expecting. Inside the package you will find all of the cables you would need to hook it up. Even though they may not be of the quality that you would want to use permanently, it does allow you to to get it up and running immediately.

 I have yet to try it out or open the top. I may get to do that this weekend but I have tests in 3 classes next week so I am going to be too busy to spend any real time with it for a while.


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## FraGGleR

Get some pink noise running through that so it is burned in by the time you are done with your tests (good luck on those!).

 Nice to hear how quick the shipping was.


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## rosgr63

Good luck with your Maverick, it looks nice.
 Please post some results when you can.


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## Neuromantic

Looks interesting. Need a cheap but worthy upgrade from onboard.


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## S3am

jmzzz01
 Photos please! 
 I'm also very interested on this DAC


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## jmzzz01

Here are two photos... the first will give you an idea of the size,...






 ...and this is the best I can do for the circuitry.






 More later....


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## S3am

Thank You. So can You write impressions after using this DAC for about half-year?


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## elwappo99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *S3am* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank You._

 

but how does it sound?!!?


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## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *S3am* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thank You. So can You write impressions after using this DAC for about half-year?_

 

S3am, jmzzz01 got this about 5 days ago. Hopefully we get some SQ impressions after his tests this week.


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## S3am

Oh sorry, 10.02 is not the same as 02.10, sure


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## FraGGleR

Ok, I am still intrigued by this DAC/Amp, especially when the looks and price are factored in (I just don't want silver/aluminum). I have been digging for impressions wherever I can find them and I started talking to a guy who had purchased one that I found through ebay. Really great guy and he has shared not only his impressions with me, but also some news very pertinent to anyone on the fence about one of these. As has been mentioned before, this is VERY similar to a couple other existing products, including the Pacific Valve Xiansheng DAC-01 and the Grant Fidelity Tube DAC-09. Well, because of these similarities, very soon (within a week or two), Grant Fidelity will be the only place to buy this DAC/amp, and they normally charge $390 for it. My new audio buddy has said that he thinks it is worth it. Below are his impressions:

 "Sonically, it impressed me for the price. It's worth the $400 that Grant charges. At $200 it's a true steal. I figured at $200 it was a throw away if it sucked (I guessed it would suck). D/A has gotten pretty easy these days, and if you couple it with the right op-amp/dac and keep the noise out, many new, inexpensive designs can outperform $2k dacs that are 5 years old. It's not perfect and it can't complete with a new big-buck dac in some areas. But it's not an insult to listen to and it really helped with my Sonos. It's much better than the onbaord dac in the Sonos. I'm not using it in my main system, but it resides in another room with a Sonos (mostly uncompressed files) into the dac then directly into a vfet yamaha B-2 amp and into Cornwalls or DIY Altec VOTT. I wanted a tube dac to smooth the highs a bit and warm the mids. I burned it in for about a week (tuned the sonos on into the dac, but didn't have the B-2 on).

 It's quiet enough for the horns (which can be a problem with cheap tube equipment). It's a bit tubey which I wanted, but I will be tube rolling for mroe tube magic. Either Bendix or Western Electric is what I'll buy first. The tube output has plenty of bass response (which can also be a problem with tubes).

 In all honesty, I even like the sound of Rhapsody being streamed from the Sonos. I don't critically listen to Rhapsody streams, but I would have thought I'd be tearing my ears off trying to listen to mid-bit-rate streams through Sonos through transistor amp to horn speakers. With the dac, it's pretty good. Certainly good enough for casual/background music.

 It'd be interesting to hear it side x side with a Scott Nixon dac. But I don't have one.

 Hey, it's $200 (if you hurry). You'll never lose money since once it's gone, the identical Grant is $390 and is worth it at that price IMO."

 He hasn't used it as a headphone amp, but the power specs at least seem to be up to snuff. He also wanted to pass along that the volume only controls the headphone amp as configured. The Grant Fidelity version can control the lineout (if using as a preamp) using a pin switch, but this one cannot. For me, that is irrelevant because I need an all in one solution. Just wanted to pass that along as a heads up.

 So in short (too late!) If you want one at $200 shipped, buy now. Otherwise, you will have to pay double to try it from a different source. I am still on the fence, as $200 is still a big layout and Nuforce (who for purely irrational reasons I really like), is coming out with a new DAC/amp in November (albeit for $400) that I am intrigued by.


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## FraGGleR

Oops, got some stuff confused. 

 "points of clarifiation. 

 1. A friend of mine has the Grant version. He's using it with cans and it works well.

 2a. You got the volume thing backwards. The Grant ships in Dac-only mode so the volume controls just the headphone jack. The outputs are fixed. IF you change a connection point on one of the internal wiring harnesses, the volume will control the RCA outputs as well (Grant's website has .pdf instructions on what to do). 

 2b. The Maverick version is shipped with the RCA outputs and the headphone jack both variable. There is no easy way to remove the volume pot (electrically) from the circuitry like the Grant. Moving the harness to the other set of pins does nothing. The volume always controls the headphone jack and the RCA outputs. No biggie, but a cleaner signal path is always good. I'm trying to get info from the factory on how to do it. I do know it will involve some soldering or de-soldering."


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## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jmzzz01* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have yet to try it out or open the top. I may get to do that this weekend but I have tests in 3 classes next week so I am going to be too busy to spend any real time with it for a while._

 

Have you had any time to listen to this with your headphones? 

 I have been reading reviews on the Grant Fidelity DAC-09 and it gets very positive reviews as a DAC and compairs favorably with much more expensive equipment. And this is coming from people who paid near $400 for it. However, only one person addressed it as an amp. He had a couple pairs of lower tier AKG (K241 I think), and Sennheiser (some 400 level), but he said that the amp did very well, and did just as well as a $1000 amp he has had in the past.

 All in all looks like a very good deal. I just wish it could be compared to some of the more mainstream stuff around here. God, two years ago or three years from now, it would have been a no brainer...

 Anyways, please post your impressions. I need one of us to chime in


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## Frito

Hi folks. First post and I claim no real expertise so be gentle. I've been lurking and reading what I could about this amp as well as the Grant Fidelity DAC-09. Yesterday I read a post somewhere saying that the headphone output on the DAC-09 was not routed through the tube. I sent an e-mail to Maverick to confirm and this is the reply I got.
  Quote:


 The headphone output is not routed through the tube. The tube is connected to the Tube Pre output only. However, when we design the headphone output, we put extra effort to make the headphone output sounds smooth and sweet. Based on our customer's feedback, most of them are very happy about the headphone amp part. 
 

I apologize if you guys are already aware of this. I was not and I thought it might be an important detail for headphone enthusiasts.


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## FraGGleR

I found that out yesterday from an email from Ryan as well. He did echo sentiments that it has a slightly warm sound. Ryan's reference headphone is the HD600, so the headphone out has no problems with those. I had asked specifically about the warmth of the sound because I am interested in getting the K702's as my next step. The amp should have more than enough power based on its spec sheet to handle the AKG's and he said that he has sold to a few AKG owners and they have enjoyed the product.

 At this point, I am sold that it is a good product at and incredible price. The reviews on the Grant are all positive and compare this device to ones costing twice as much.

 I just don't have a lot to spend and I figure it makes more sense to get the cans before the amp. So tempted.


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## jmzzz01

I have been listening to mine, and I've got to say that I really like the way it sounds. I think it has a _somewhat warm_ sound, both through the headphone output, and as a preamp, which suits me just fine. I'm not a fan of the _sterile or clinical_ sound. I've been using the tube output to drive my speakers and the ss output for the sub.

 There are two issues that I have encountered with mine though:

 The first is that the chassis was not square when I received it (it doesn't make contact with all four feet, one being about 1.0mm off the table). I think the design of the chassis and top cover are part of the problem, and also where the attachment screws were located also adds to this. I took the top off and the chassis itself went back into place by just twisting it a little. The problem occurs when you go to put the cover back on. I have played with it a little though, using pliers to get the stiffening flanges off of each other a little, and have gotten it pretty close to true. I may take a dremmel and open up a small relief notch between them, or perhaps just put a small washer between the foot and the chassis and solve it that way. It's hard to explain without a picture, but suffice it to say that it's not a show-stopper, at least for me.

 The other issue is that, when you are using a digital source and rotate the selector switch, there is a momentary "hiss" sound that escapes, some sort of energy release. It's not horrible, but it can be annoying. It doesn't happen on the analog inputs; only with the digital ones. It seems to be tied to the DAC, but if you turn down the volume before rotating the switch, then you do not hear it. I am the only one that uses this equipment in my home, so it is not a big deal to turn it down first. If you have others that you have to remind, it may be a big issue for you. I wouldn't normally be turning it while using it, but since it is new, I have been checking the outputs against each other, single-blind style.

 All-in-all, I think that for $199, it represents a really good value, especially when you back out $30 or so for shipping the unit to you. If you want to have full service and the security of a warranty behind the product, you may want to consider paying up for the Grant Fidelity version. They have more of an established business and should be in a position to give better service if you were to need repair or something, but it comes at a price. I am in a situation where every nickel counts right now, and do not feel that I have that luxury.

 Ryan has been real good about answering questions and so forth, and seems like a pretty good guy. He has been trying to correct the switching issue, and if he does, then the product value on these will just go up another notch. I'm glad that I made the purchase and happy with it in-spite of the shortcomings. 

 So that's all I can report for now. I am still too busy to do a full write-up on this unit, but if you have any questions, post them here and I'll try to answer them. Ryan also is watching this post occasionally, so perhaps he will sign-up and answer them himself, and get to know the community here as well. That would be a real benefit for both, I think.


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## FraGGleR

What headphones do you use jmzzz01? Does the headphone amp seem like it has lots of power? Glad to hear you like it so far. So tempted, but I have so man things to buy at this point...


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## Frito

I got mine this morning. For reference my headphones are Sony MDR-V6. I don't know if these are respected headphones around here but a friend recommended them and I like them. I only had an hour or so to play with the amp but this is my impression. Keep in mind of course I'm new at this and have a limited reference.

 To start with my enclosure was not at all deformed as jmzzz01 observed with his. Nice looking case. Everything feels solid. I did notice the brief hiss as jmzzz01 did when changing away from a digital source but it's not a big deal. Not sure if this is important but there's a tiny hum at zero volume on any input regardless of whether or not it's connected to a source. Once the music starts you never notice it. Being an ex punker and metalhead I like *loud * music and the Maverick can blow my head off at half volume. Just plain loud is at 1/3 volume. I spent most of my time at about 1/4 volume. I dunno if that gives you any indication of its power. As for sound, I thought it was very clean at any volume level below bleeding ears. There seemed to be additional space to the music but this may simply be a function of being able to hear a broader range of frequencies. Live recordings sounded very good with the instruments seemingly in and around the room with me. In one case I noticed some ambient noise (foot scrape on stool, mumbling in background) in the recording that I'd never heard before. I didn't notice any additional warmth but again, I don't really have a good reference. Most of my audio comes from my computers and the Maverick is connected to my PC via the USB. No drivers required. Plug and play. Eventually I'll see if the S/PDIF connection makes any difference. Overall I'm impressed with it and I'm anxious to spend some quality time listening to my favorite tunes. Hopefully in spite of my limited vocabulary on the subject I was able to convey some useful info.


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## jmzzz01

I have HD600s. I've had the same pair for maybe 5 years now and really like them. I don't think there's anything to worry about as far of running out of volume.


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## FraGGleR

Thanks gents! Man oh man I want one. I just got a Total Bithead today and it improved the sound out of my computer, but it didn't do anythign noticeable to the sound of my Clip (which is about as good as it gets straight to efficient headphones). It has been said a couple times that my SRH840's don't really respond to amping and that seems to be the case as neither the E5 nor the Total Bithead really showed me anything noticebably new. So at this point I think I have maximized my system. I KNOW I will want a "better" pair od headphones, almost certainly the K702's, and I am looking at the Maverick to be the dac/amp that will scale up to the K702, as I am almost certain the Total Bithead will not be able to properly drive them. 

 Only problem is that I don't have the K702's, and I don't know when I will get them. Could be next month, or next year. But I only have a few days to decide if the Maverick will be good enough for them and then buy it, not knowing when I will have the cans to exploit it.

 Sigh.


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## FraGGleR

Anyone know if you can the opamps are socketed? That way one could tweak the sound to match headphones better. I think that is my main concern. The AKG's are supposed to be really picky so just having the power isn't enough, there needs to be "synergy."


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## mmmmm

Hi, has anybody finally found out what DAC is used inside or at least how it looks like, BB, Wolfson, etc.. Thanks.


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## FraGGleR

There are pictures on the first page. This is basically the same dac/amp as the Grant Fidelity DAC-09 and the Xiangsheng DAC-01. None of them list the actual chips used. All the labels are erased on the board. The only things you have to go by are the reviews of the other two as well as the thoughts posted on this board.

 Seems to be a good dac/amp for a good price. It certainly strives to do a lot for the price.


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## elwappo99

Any ideas on changing out that tube yet? I've got mine, and I'm finding the vocals to be a little shrill, and fatiguing. anyone else get this?


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## FraGGleR

The tube can be swapped out. Pacific Valve sold an "upgraded" one with a better tube in it. I think a NOS replacement tube only costs about $10-15 on ebay and should make it sound better. It is a similar style tube to many tube amps out there so you can get some ideas of sounds from those. 

 Also, has it burned in yet? Everything I have read about tubes indicates a need for a burn in period. 

 All that being said, the headphone out doesn't connect through the tube buffer, it is straight solid state. Unless someone can confirm that, a) it uses opamps, and b) that they can be rolled, you won't be able to change the sound of the headphone out.


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## elwappo99

well I was hoping to get like an equivalence for the tube. I'm running this on a line out to a little dot mkiii, so tube rolling is a favorite for me  

 Tubes have a nice burn in time. Close to 100 hours. So I'm at 50 hours or so. But after 30, I always feel you can get a nice feel for the sound.

 I don't know about the headphone out. I'll try to post some more impressions later.


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## FraGGleR

From the Pacific Valve website: "As we say on all of these, the Chinese supplied 6N3 tube is not worth it. It is very hard and rasps female vocals. The trouble is, there are only NOS 5670 tubes available. Go with the upgraded version and get this tube installed. It is well worth the money."

 There is a seller on ebay who can hand select and test a NOS 5670 tube for something like $10 shipped if I remember correctly. You probably want to ask some of the gurus like Skylab as to what brand if you are particular.

 In exchange for this information, you must give your impressions on the headphone amp


----------



## elwappo99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FraGGleR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In exchange for this information, you must give your impressions on the headphone amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

But it comes with a 5670 tube in it. At least he said it did. I haven't opened it to check. I don't find your information sufficient to write up a report on the in built amp. 


 But seriously... what kind of headphones do you use / have you heard. And what sources, so we can compare a bit.


----------



## FraGGleR

Hmm. I did not know that the Maverick is already supposed to have the 5670 in it already. I thought it came basically standard with the Chinese tube. Not sure what else to say.

 And I don't have this dac/amp. In fact, all I have is the Total Bithead and my SRH840's. All the info I have is from scouring the web and emailing people for information. The product is pretty well reviewed on audiokarma.org and canuckmart something or other. Not many people are using it as a headphone amp, but just as a dac or preamp. The few people who have used it as a headphone amp have said it has a lot of power, but not so much on headphone synergy. 

 I am looking at the DT990 600ohm or the K702 as my next headphone and am trying to speculate as to whether or not this will drive them well AND sound good. From what I understand they both need lots of power and a warmish source so I think an amp that can deliver those two things should suit either just fine.


----------



## Frito

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elwappo99* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But it comes with a 5670 tube in it. At least he said it did. I haven't opened it to check. I don't find your information sufficient to write up a report on the in built amp._

 

This was my impression as well although since according to Ryan at Maverick the tube does not play a part in the headphone amp so I haven't bothered looking.


----------



## Mr C

It'd be interesting if someone could do a quick faceoff between the head direct ef2 and this fellow. Even though this one is more of a dac and the ef2 is mostly an amp.


----------



## boomy3555

Well, I just pulled the old proverbial trigger and it should arrive soon. I'll compare to the EF-2 and get back. Now all I have to do is start getting some tubes to roll. Anyone got some favs in the category?


----------



## anadin

I really like the look of this DAC/Amp‏ combo, I am going to order one as they are going to include free shipping to the UK.


----------



## Ronald Lee

my local dealer/distributor is selling them! Might be heading down to audition this new toy!


----------



## FraGGleR

Wow interest has really picked up for these. I can't wait to hear impressions!


----------



## elwappo99

For FraGGleR's sake, I'm going to jot down some ideas/feelings/ideas I've had with this little dac/amp/everything else.

 So, I've got two set ups. Coming off a digital to the Maverick DAC, and then heaphone out, or off digital to the DAC and then to my little dot mkiii.

 At first, I found the whole set up to be blistering high pitched, and vocals would make me squirm. It was terrible. After hours of adjusting equilizers, tubes and more I realized it was my new power cables that was doing it.


 So for the actual set-up amp. First with grado sr225. I found right off the amp, the vocals were still a bit too shrill for me. Especially "s" words. Became hard to bare. Listening through the little dot changed it up, and smoothed it up a bit, but some "s" still were hard to take.

 Now for the good news. Listening through hd650 really changed the headphones. They still had an impressive sound for stringed instruments, which was quite impressive, and even better off the little dot. But more than that, I had never really been impressed by vocals on the hd650. Coming straight off the maverick DAC, vocals were surprisingly clear and detailed.

 DT770s had a similar effect. Much clearer and stronger vocals, which were much more detailed, and instruments also sounded a bit better. But the vocals were unlike I had heard before. It was like a new pair of headphones.


 -- Sorry I'm just writing ideas down as a starting point. I've been pretty busy. So, I'll open to questions, and try to add more later.


 I'm also waiting to buy a pair of k702s, so I'd love to put impressions with those up, but I need to sell one more thing in order to afford them. So if a kind soul would be willing


----------



## boomy3555

Ryan has shipped already so hopefully it will be soon. DHL isn't the best in our neck of the woods, but we'll see.

 I'll be lsitening at least two ways

 1>Ipdo 5th gen 80gb video...wav > LOD(copper) > Maverick RCA In > Reviews of both headphone out and pre-out to the EF2.

 2> Netbook> Itunes> USB>Maverick> Again both headphone out and pre out to ef2.

 3> both of the above systems with the Fostex T50RP

 4> Option #1 above with Direct CD ( Marantz DV6001 DVD/SACD)


----------



## jmzzz01

Hopefully someone will figure out the op-amp end of this and be able to suggest a few different flavors that can be interchanged so that we can roll them.

 I haven't been able to spend any time listening to mine for almost a week now, but I still say that, for the money, you get a ton of capability, and a lot of value.


----------



## boomy3555

When Fang at Head-direct first released the EF1, many head-fier's clammered for an OP AMP socket instead of the soldered in original design and he came through. Hopefuly Maverick will do the same if we kick up enough dust.


----------



## moodyrn

I've found out who the original manufacturer is between maverick, grant fidelity, and XiangSheng . I went to Xiang Sheng's website and inquired about their dac-01 because on their website you can get options that's not available from the other two companies. Here's the excerpt from their website:

 Note: DAC-01 Output Mode have the two following choose: 
 1, whether or not Volume potentiometer control line output: 
 A. Line output (connect with amplifier) and headphone amplification are both controlled by the volume potentiometer .
 B. Only the headphone amplification is controlled by the volume potentiometer .

 2. When inserting earphone,whether or not line output became mute . 
 A. When plugging in headphones, line output becomes mute automatically, only headphone amplification have output. When removing heaphones, line out recovers by itself. 

 B. When plugging in headphones, line output and headphone amplification both have output. You will need to turn off your amplifier to listen through headphones only.

 Please specify your choose when ordering ( For example, reference format : 1A、2A ).If don't specify when ordering,we will ship item out according our default output pattern .

 Our default output pattern is 1A, 2A.

 1A means : Line output (connect with amplifier) and headphone amplification are both controlled by the volume potentiometer .

 2A means : When plugging in headphones, line output becomes mute automatically, only headphone amplification have output. When removing heaphones, line out recovers by itself. 

 Finally, Please specify the Voltage you need , all Voltage are available. 

 I would love to have the preamp bypassed because the outputs would be going to my receiver and stax amp so I don't care for the outputs to be controlled by the volume. grant fidelity gives you this option for an additional 25.00. I also would love for the outputs to mute when ever headphones are plugged in. Grant fidelity doesn't give you this option(not that I'm aware of). So I contacted them about purchasing this and this is the response I got.


 Very glad to hear from you and thank you for interesting in our products. 

 We have distributor in North America for this DAC product . You can purchase the DAC in your local area. And they will provide manufacturer warranty to customers: 

Grant Fidelity Tube DAC-09 Digital-to-analog Converter - MSRP US$390.00 | Grant Fidelity Home Audio


 If you have any question, please feel free to contact us . 

 Thanks and Best Regards, 
 Ann 

 Hefei Xiangsheng Electronic Co. Ltd 
 No.122 KEXUE AVENUE GAOXIN DISTRICT,HEFEI,CHINA
 Telephone: 0086-0551-5316108 
 Fax :0086-0551-5317108
 Skype :mollyxu2008
 MSN: lanhaitun2006@live.cn
 Web site: Hefei XiangSheng Electronic Co.,Ltd

 I was very surprise when I read this. Not only is the grant fidelity a rebranded DAC-01, it is a dac-01. But it appears that they are the only authorized dealer in north America, which is something FraGGleR stated earlier. But what we didn't know was who the oem was. I now will be ordering the dac-01 of ebay since it's now on sale for 187.00 shipped. Especially since the maverick dealer refuse to respond to any of my emails. I do like the look of the maverick better, but it's obviously a clone.


----------



## elwappo99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was very surprise when I read this. Not only is the grant fidelity a rebranded DAC-01, it is a dac-01. But it appears that they are the only authorized dealer in north America, which is something FraGGleR stated earlier. But what we didn't know was who the oem was. I now will be ordering the dac-01 of ebay since it's now on sale for 187.00 shipped. Especially since the maverick dealer refuse to respond to any of my emails. I do like the look of the maverick better, but it's obviously a clone._

 

It's not a clone, it's an original from pacific valve. Grant fidelity is trying to make it look different, because obviously, someone selling their dac at half cost might hurt their business, just a little bit. 

 See these links, at audio karma.

cache

what happened after an admin found it

 remember Grant fidelity is a serious sponsor of that site.


----------



## moodyrn

Even if it's not a clone. We now know who the original manufacturer is, and their dac is on ebay for the same price as the maverick. And the fact that the mav dealer won't respond to any of my emails turned me off from them. So I'll probably be getting the dac-01 since they are the ones who manufactured it anyway. Also the person I'm getting it from is an authorized dealer from China(I confirmed this with Xiang Sheng). And they can also send me the one with the options I want(none preamp on non of the outputs, and when I plug in headphones, the outputs will automatically mute).


----------



## elwappo99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_when I plug in headphones, the outputs will automatically mute)._

 

Just checked that out... my maverick does that


----------



## Frito

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Even if it's not a clone. We now know who the original manufacturer is, and their dac is on ebay for the same price as the maverick. And the fact that the mav dealer won't respond to any of my emails turned me off from them. So I'll probably be getting the dac-01 since they are the ones who manufactured it anyway. Also the person I'm getting it from is an authorized dealer from China(I confirmed this with Xiang Sheng). And they can also send me the one with the options I want(none preamp on non of the outputs, and when I plug in headphones, the outputs will automatically mute)._

 

I haven't looked at mine yet but supposedly the Maverick comes with an upgraded 5670 tube where the Xiang Sheng version comes with the 6N3. Just saying...


----------



## moodyrn

I already have a nos ge5670. They are only 10-15.00 anyway. But that is a nice bonus. Anyone knows how long the warranty is on the mav. If it is in fact the same oem one, I might still be interested in the mav because the black chassis just looks much better to me(and all of my components are black). It still concerns me that the seller had not responded to the three emails I sent inquiring about it. I did find out how to bypass the preamp if anyone's interested. It's just as simple as changing a plug around on the inside. Grant fidelity has detailed instructions with pics on their website. It's a shame they would charge 25.00 to do a two minute job.


----------



## Frito

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I already have a nos ge5670. They are only 10-15.00 anyway. But that is a nice bonus. Anyone knows how long the warranty is on the mav. If it is in fact the same oem one, I might still be interested in the mav because the black chassis just looks much better to me(and all of my components are black). It still concerns me that the seller had not responded to the three emails I sent inquiring about it. I did find out how to bypass the preamp if anyone's interested. It's just as simple as changing a plug around on the inside. Grant fidelity has detailed instructions with pics on their website. It's a shame they would charge 25.00 to do a two minute job._

 

What e-mail address have you been using? I've been using the ebay@mavaudio.com address and he has been relatively responsive.


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I already have a nos ge5670. They are only 10-15.00 anyway. But that is a nice bonus. Anyone knows how long the warranty is on the mav. If it is in fact the same oem one, I might still be interested in the mav because the black chassis just looks much better to me(and all of my components are black). It still concerns me that the seller had not responded to the three emails I sent inquiring about it. I did find out how to bypass the preamp if anyone's interested. It's just as simple as changing a plug around on the inside. Grant fidelity has detailed instructions with pics on their website. It's a shame they would charge 25.00 to do a two minute job._

 

Unfortunately, or fortunately if you don't care, or prefer it, you cannot get the Maverick to bypass the preamp with the plug change. Apparently this is one of the few places that do differ. Not sure if this was asked for by Maverick specifically, but it is one of the few points of difference. A gentleman who I contacted through ebay who owns one has said some soldering might be involved and he is in contact with either Maverick or Xiangsheng about a solution.

 Not to drive any business Grant Fidelity's way since they are basically squashing Maverick and Pacific Valve, but they will be getting black faceplates in as an option for their upcoming shipment. Not sure if the knobs will be black as well (I would hope so). Rachel at Grant also said that $300 shipped will be there normal price for internet orders for now. Comes with a one year warranty.

 I am also surprised that Maverick hasn't gotten back to you as Ryan over there was really responsive and helpful whenever I had questions for him. I asked him a bit about being forced to shut down selling in NA and how that would impact service and he was adamant that he is in this business to stay and that service was the only way to differentiate himself. So he will stand by the product and will take returns, minus shipping (not sure what $$ that would be). 

 In the end, each version (assuming the same tube is being used) should sound the same and that is the real question for those of us who want one. Regardless of price, how this thing sounds and stacks up to other well-known DAC/amps is really what will determine its true value and down the line determine where people buy theirs from.

 At $300-390, people over at audiokarma.org (very little emphasis on headphones), have said it is an outstanding value. I have read so many different threads on these siblings that I can't remember where I read it, but someone said they preferred it to the Dac Magic which is well regarded here. So the Maverick or straight from Xiangsheng is an even better deal.

 I have a lot of things I want to buy and a budget too small for all of them which is why I have been on the fence for so long about this. I think I would rather spend the money on some new headphones or speakers, but then again, I need to have a good source for all my stuff. Other than that, this seems like a dream product for me (if they built a matching T-amp, it would complete my dream).

 Maverick wins on looks over almost any product I have seen on this site. I am absolutely flummoxed why no one seems to care what these things look like.


----------



## boomy3555

Ryan has communciated very well with me so far, but I've made a recent purchase so that could flavor in to his response times.


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryan has communciated very well with me so far, but I've made a recent purchase so that could flavor in to his response times._

 

Maybe, although he has been very responsive to me and I have been on the fence and pestering him for weeks.


----------



## moodyrn

Well I really don't understand why he has been inresponsive, but the fact is, he has. Sorry to hear that I couldn't bypass the preamp with the plug swap. This will be a deal breaker for me. I really hate that, cause I was on the verge of looking over everything else and getting one. But hey 187.00 shipped with warranty for the xs one isn't bad. Just hate the shinning aluminum faceplate will be glaring in my room.


----------



## elwappo99

Can you give a link to those images? I'd like to open it up and see what it looks like, that would inhibit the changes. How much sonic difference does everyone think this will make? I've never done anything like it, so I don't have anything to compare it to.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I already have a nos ge5670. They are only 10-15.00 anyway. But that is a nice bonus. Anyone knows how long the warranty is on the mav. If it is in fact the same oem one, I might still be interested in the mav because the black chassis just looks much better to me(and all of my components are black). It still concerns me that the seller had not responded to the three emails I sent inquiring about it. I did find out how to bypass the preamp if anyone's interested. It's just as simple as changing a plug around on the inside. Grant fidelity has detailed instructions with pics on their website. It's a shame they would charge 25.00 to do a two minute job._


----------



## moodyrn

There's pics of internals posted on page 1 and 2 of this thread.


----------



## moodyrn

So are both the tube and opamp outputs controlled by the volume knob on the mav?


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So are both the tube and opamp outputs controlled by the volume knob on the mav?_

 

If I understand Ryan @ Maverick audio, yes and it is not changeable at the moment.

 You could try to see if Grant Fidelity would sell you the black faceplate to replace the silver one on the Xiangsheng if you get it. Also, a custome faceplate shouldn't be more than $30-40 from a place I saw on the DIY forum (thoroughly unhelpful, but I can't find the link right now). You would just have to measure super precisely the wholes to get them drilled.

 I don't know if painting would work on aluminum. And yeah, I can't stand the silve alumninum on a lot of the amps out there. Almost makes them look cheap to my eyes.


----------



## moodyrn

Thanks for the info. I just pulled the trigger on the xs one. It' s the oem version, so I know that's it's been "unfooled" around with. I also have the option to bypass the preamp, and it's totally reversible. And most importantly, it's from an authorized dealer and comes with a year warranty. I wish I could have felt confident enough to go with the mav, because of the looks. But the xs was a much safer option for me and came much closer to meeting all of my needs. I'll post some impressions when it comes in. Also the mav dealer is a little hard to trust. I know the folks a GF have really bashed them, but in their defense, the mav dealer does claim that they designed it which is clearly not true. They even go as far as to state that they spent a great deal of time on the design. So I just felt more safe going with the oem version. And besides, they are at the moment cheaper than the mav. I'm not in any way criticizing people who purchased the mav. Everyone has a right to spend their money on whatever they want. As for me, it just didn't feel as safe buying from them, as it did buying the oem version from an authorized dealer.


----------



## kb1gra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FraGGleR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Also, a custome faceplate shouldn't be more than $30-40 from a place I saw on the DIY forum (thoroughly unhelpful, but I can't find the link right now). You would just have to measure super precisely the wholes to get them drilled._

 


 That would be "Front Panels Express."

 A matched pair for the Mini3 custom I built were about $45 including filled text, so for something this size you should be able to get out around that price as long as you don't make the text colored.

 Or have no text and do the old "white text on clear labels" DIY trick


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kb1gra* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would be "Front Panels Express."

 A matched pair for the Mini3 custom I built were about $45 including filled text, so for something this size you should be able to get out around that price as long as you don't make the text colored.

 Or have no text and do the old "white text on clear labels" DIY trick 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's the one! Thanks, Lauren.


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info. I just pulled the trigger on the xs one. It' s the oem version, so I know that's it's been "unfooled" around with. I also have the option to bypass the preamp, and it's totally reversible. And most importantly, it's from an authorized dealer and comes with a year warranty. I wish I could have felt confident enough to go with the mav, because of the looks. But the xs was a much safer option for me and came much closer to meeting all of my needs. I'll post some impressions when it comes in. Also the mav dealer is a little hard to trust. I know the folks a GF have really bashed them, but in their defense, the mav dealer does claim that they designed it which is clearly not true. They even go as far as to state that they spent a great deal of time on the design. So I just felt more safe going with the oem version. And besides, they are at the moment cheaper than the mav. I'm not in any way criticizing people who purchased the mav. Everyone has a right to spend their money on whatever they want. As for me, it just didn't feel as safe buying from them, as it did buying the oem version from an authorized dealer._

 

Please post your impressions when you have gotten a good listen in. I am out of the market for this at this point (serious pull toward new speakers right now), but I still like everything this DAC/amp offers at its price point.


----------



## moodyrn

Will do.


----------



## kb1gra

I've been thinking about picking one of these up but realistically, I have a perfectly good DAC/amp (the Topaz) with similar components, I don't need a preamp, and somehow I've acquired three headphone amps in the past two weeks. 

 Someone let me know how it goes. I might pick one up to resell at a small loss to a/b with my Topaz which was $449.


----------



## FraGGleR

BTW, a Maverick owner who I have been in contact with got the following information from the Xiangsheng factory on how to defeat the volume control of the line out by soldering two spots. Not as simple as a jumper switch, but still possible for anyone handy with a soldering iron.

 It will involve 4 steps (see attached picture):

 1) You need to remove the front panel PCB ( not the main PCB, just the small PCB attached to the front panel).
 2) You need to remove the volume control switch. 
 3) Below the volume control switch, when the 2 points are connected in the place A and B, you can bypass the volume control.
 When the 2 points are connected in the place C and D, you will enable volume control.
 4) After you disabled the volume control on PCB, solder the volume control switch back on, put the front panel panel PCB back to the case.








 So now, the only real differences out there are price and aethestics (and upgraded tube).


----------



## boomy3555

Just Arrived DHL. (On Day Express). Well packed. minimal IC's but most of us upgrade or DIY IC's anyway. I had mentioned to Ryan that I was hopng to burn in before a Seattle meet this weekend so I think he upgraded my shipping hoping I'll get it done in time to show it around . Although I recall references from others as to fast shipping . I'll start burn-in after dinner during my graveyard shift at work. I'll post some preliminary thoughts tonight.

 First impressions: Now to be specific I'm only running headphone out from Ipod 5th gen but even right out of the box the Solid State headphone section is quite transparent and extremely powerful. I would put it at about 2-3 times the volume of the EF2. As the headphone out is not part the tube preamp section, I cannot comment on the tube flavor until I have a chance to run it as a preamp into something else and maybe roll a couple of different tubes. I found some Tung Sol on eBay, I may order, but for now I only have the Stock. One thing I find extremely nice is the variable input knob. Very few dedicated headphone amps have switchable variable inputs. Especially in this price range. You usually have to manually change the cables to suit the source. This amp can as many as five different sources hooked up at once. A great advantage if you want to A/B several sources without manually switching wires. I could hook up my DVD multichanger with the optical, run my netbook into the USB, Run the Marantz SACD into one of the Analog RCA's and the Ipod docking station into the other and still have a coaxial input left over, all at a turn of a knob.


----------



## Kitarist

New to DAC stuff but does the sound really improve when using DAC with the computer


----------



## boomy3555

Many Head-Fi'ers swear that most stock computer audio cards are junk and that it's best to bypass the computers onboard sound card with an external DAC. Like most things here, it's a matter of preference. Using my EF2 in USB DAC mode does not give me enough volume so I use the Headphone out of my Netbook ( RealTech Audio card)into the RCA's of the EF2. I have not had the chance to hook up the MAV. via usb or Optical yet so I can't tell the volume other than the minimal time I've used it on Analog RCA imputs. Quite powerful on RCA but all of my cans ar low impedence.


----------



## FraGGleR

If you are using just your onboard sound, just about any outboard dac will be an improvement. There are a lot of options for a simple USB dac between $50-100 that will give you a noticeable improvement from your built in sound. I am using a Total Bithead, which is a more entry level DAC/amp, but it has given me an noticeable, obvious improvement. I got one used for under $100, and couldn't be more pleased with the value I got. 

 As with everything in this hobby, the law of diminishing returns is in effect. You can keep spending more money to squeeze out a little more improvement, but you will hit a point where the cost isn't worth it. For some, it comes after their first purchase. For some, it hasn't come yet after thousands of dollars spent.

 This DAC/amp is interesting because it has the POTENTIAL to be a tremendous value, giving people a solid dac, powerful headphone amp, plus a tube buffer all in one pretty great looking package for a really good price. Not enough people who have a lot of experience with other DAC's have bought it yet to get a full impression of it, but what impressions can be found are favorable.


----------



## moodyrn

I've had several dacs in 200-500 price range. I would like to say I'll be comparing mine(xs not mav) to the ones I had in the 200.00 price range. But since the gf one retails for almost 400.00, I'll be comparing it to the ones I've owned in that price range. I'll also compare it to my motu 828 which retailed for 800.00 when it was new. I've had it several years, so it is an older dac/amp(well actually a firewire interface I use in my studio), but still sounds quite good compared to some of the newer stuff. I know comparing it to dacs I use to have may not be a fair comparison since I can't do a side by side comparison, but I do remember how most sounded and I also remember how each compared to the dac in my pioneer elite receiver. Some where not as good, and others was a sidegrade at best. There were a couple that sounded slightly better but not enough to justify the cost. So it would be interesting to see how the xs compares to my receiver once I get it.


----------



## jmzzz01

Just an update... I received a question as to how this unit sounded with my HD600s, so I thought i would share my response here...

 "I've used it (the headphone portion) only by playing flac files with my Squeezebox, switching between both the DAC in the Squeezebox and the one in the Maverick, and I am pleased with the way it sounds. I couldn't really tell a difference between DACs, only that one had slightly more volume, but I don't remember which one that was.

 It has a laid-back quality, which I like, that enables you to listen for hours without fatigue. Some people prefer a more stark, clinical sound (i.e. Grado, as opposed to Senn) and they may be disappointed with it. I was surprised at how good it sounds, and I don't really use headphones much anymore. I prefer listening through speakers when I am at home and only use headphones at work or when traveling, as a rule. (My usual at-work headphone rig is a CD player running directly through an RS XP-7.)

 Overall, this unit is a steal for it's sound quality, as long as you aren't picky about it being enclosed in a modest case and perhaps having to deal with some small manufacturing issues as I mentioned in the post."


----------



## boomy3555

I had a chance to hook up the Maverick with the Marantz DV6001 DVD/SACD at the recent Seattle meet. Many tried it and thought it was pretty good, especially for the price but there were so many superior amps there, it kinda got lost in the shuffle. I find the solid state headphone out be quite powerful and clear. I still prefer tube flavor so as the Headphone out is not part of the tube section I have listed the Maverick for sale. I just don't have enough use for a pre-amp which is basically what the Tube section is all about. I will miss the multiple inputs but I think I'll stick with my EF2 until I can afford something balanced..


----------



## FraGGleR

Boomy, did you try it using the usb input with the RCA out to another amp? I am wondering how this does as a pure USB DAC. From what I understand, the quality of the SS headphone amp (should that be what someone needs) and switchable inputs would be worth the $200 alone? I wonder how good the DAC is as just a DAC? Worth $200? A mini3/gamma full in a single case from Mister X would have cost over $200, and that would be without a fancy switch or nearly as many inputs and outputs. Would people say that this is at least as good as that combo? 

 My budding DIY cable hobby (and my bravo amp) just ate up all my play money so I have to live with my Total Bithead as my DAC for the foreseeable future. I would totally sell the bithead and anything else I could to get this, but I need it for when I am using my laptop on the go as my source. Sigh. I hate gadget lust.


----------



## boomy3555

As a DAC/Pre-amp it's absolutely worth the price. It's got a standard SS out as well as the Tube Pre-out. Plus all of the imputs makes it a pretty versatile audio switcher as well. You can hook up as many as 5 different input sources at one time. If the headphone out was connected to the tube section it would be a no brainer. I did try running RCA from both the standard and tube outputs to the RCA in of the EF2 but did not feel any difference from the EF2 alone. I would suggest that the DACs between the Mav and the EF2 are pretty equal.


----------



## moodyrn

I just received my xs dac-01 monday, but before I get into impressions I would like to clear up something grant fidelity has on their site. It has been discussed the possibility of changing the output from fix to preamp. On grant fidelity site you can download instructions on how to do this by changing a plug around. Let me confirm that this is wrong. I chose to purchase the xs over the mav because it has been confirmed that changing the plug doesn't defeat the preamp on the mav. Well it doesn't change the preamp function on the xs either. What it does is change the output mute function when you plug in headphones which refered to as mode 1a on xs's website. After inspecting things further,I noticed there are some jumpers in the same place where FraGGleR describes the connecting points to bypass the preamp on the mav. I oredered mine with the preamp bypassed, so moving each jumper forward enabled the preamp function. So I guess in everyone else case, moving each jumper backward(if you have jumpers) would bypass the preamp. I can post pics if someone's interested. So changing the preamp function is simple. It's just not the way grant fidelity describes on their website. I'm still in the burning in process so I'll post impressions later. I will say that out of the box, I was a little disappointed. The sound was harsh and very sibilant. But after about 70 hours of burn in, things have really settled, and this is turning into a pretty nice sounding dac. Also, the headphone amp is way more powerful than I expected.


----------



## FraGGleR

Look forward to hearing more as it burns in compared to your other dacs and amps.


----------



## bearmann

I'd be interested, too. Especially how well the headphone amp drives low impedance cans, like your AD1000.

 best regards,
 bearmann


----------



## moodyrn

This thing is more powerful than the compass I use to have(which is a very powerful amp). It drives all of my cans without any hint of distortion. My only complaint is, the gain needs to be a lot lower. 10:00 with my 600ohm sextetts is very loud. It hurts to go anywhere near 12:00 with them. My hd580 rarely sees anything past 9:00. My 44ohm shures and 40ohm ad1000s sounds great. As a result of the gain being so high, there is a little hiss with my lower ohm cans. It's not loud, but with no music playing, it's noticable. This is one area that the compass beats it. The compass was completely quiet with all of my cans. But I'm starting to enjoy this more than I enjoyed my compass. It just sounds more neutral, airy, and detailed in comparison. I did really enjoy the compass laid back sound, but it was lacking in detail. It doesn't sound as organic and 3 dimensional as my ming da, but It's every bit as powerful. My ming da also have a much wider soundstage as well. But, I'm really surprised by how good the headphone amp is. I remember reading on another forum of people saying the the headphone amp was on par with a 300.00 amp. I have to agree. In my opinion, just the amp alone is well worth the asking price. The dac is pretty good as well. Compared to dacs I've owned in the 200-400.00 price range, I would rank it better than the compass, valab, zero and zhaoulu. The valab was slightly more musical, but it lacking in details and soundstage compared to this. The compass just sounds more digital in comparison, and zero and zhaolu isn't even worth mentioning. I'm very happy with this so far. The comparisons to the dacs I used to own is from memory, but I do have a pretty good memory about how they sounded and how they compared to the dac in my pioneer elite receiver. Neither on was significantly better. Some were not as good, but I can clearly hear an improvement with this dac.


----------



## bearmann

Thanks moodyrn for your opinion. I got an email from Ryan where he mentioned that he will release a revised version of the Maverick DAC soon. With swappable opamps and tube.
 I think I'll get one of those... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 best regards,
 bearmann


----------



## markop2003

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks moodyrn for your opinion. I got an email from Ryan where he mentioned that he will release a revised version of the Maverick DAC soon. With swappable opamps and tube.
 I think I'll get one of those... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 best regards,
 bearmann_

 

Damn, i already ordered one of these... 
 Oh well i wouldn't bother upgrading it unless i could afford to get burson discretes for the whole thing which won't be for a while now. I could do with upgrading my speaker amp too...


----------



## moodyrn

Depending how much he raised the price, that should be an even greater deal. I've noticed he's already raised the price 40.00. I already replaced the tube in mine with a nos ge jan 5670. I got for about 10.00. They are very cheap. Dip sockets aren't expensive either, so he shouldn't raise it that much. But you never know.


----------



## boomy3555

Can HDAM ( Earth,Moon, and Sun) be put into the Mav. if Ryan adds sockets ?


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This thing is more powerful than the compass I use to have(which is a very powerful amp). It drives all of my cans without any hint of distortion. My only complaint is, the gain needs to be a lot lower. 10:00 with my 600ohm sextetts is very loud. It hurts to go anywhere near 12:00 with them. My hd580 rarely sees anything past 9:00. My 44ohm shures and 40ohm ad1000s sounds great. As a result of the gain being so high, there is a little hiss with my lower ohm cans. It's not loud, but with no music playing, it's noticable. This is one area that the compass beats it. The compass was completely quiet with all of my cans. But I'm starting to enjoy this more than I enjoyed my compass. It just sounds more neutral, airy, and detailed in comparison. I did really enjoy the compass laid back sound, but it was lacking in detail. It doesn't sound as organic and 3 dimensional as my ming da, but It's every bit as powerful. My ming da also have a much wider soundstage as well. But, I'm really surprised by how good the headphone amp is. I remember reading on another forum of people saying the the headphone amp was on par with a 300.00 amp. I have to agree. In my opinion, just the amp alone is well worth the asking price. The dac is pretty good as well. Compared to dacs I've owned in the 200-400.00 price range, I would rank it better than the compass, valab, zero and zhaoulu. The valab was slightly more musical, but it lacking in details and soundstage compared to this. The compass just sounds more digital in comparison, and zero and zhaolu isn't even worth mentioning. I'm very happy with this so far. The comparisons to the dacs I used to own is from memory, but I do have a pretty good memory about how they sounded and how they compared to the dac in my pioneer elite receiver. Neither on was significantly better. Some were not as good, but I can clearly hear an improvement with this dac._

 

Thanks for the comparisons, especially to other competitors in the general price range! So from a SQ standpoint, it is a great deal, add in the switching knob and the looks and I am sold. Now to find some more money...


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Depending how much he raised the price, that should be an even greater deal._

 

He wrote, that it'll be sold for $199 when pre-ordering. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can HDAM ( Earth,Moon, and Sun) be put into the Mav. if Ryan adds sockets ?_

 

Space could become a problem... spec wise they should fit in.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markop2003* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh well i wouldn't bother upgrading it *unless i could afford to get burson discretes* for the whole thing which won't be for a while now. I could do with upgrading my speaker amp too..._

 

AFAIK the default opamp is the NE5532 - one of the worst and oldest opamps in audio circuits. Even replacing it with a LM4562NA should result in a significantly enhanced sound.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## Keras

Hi everybody im new on this forum, but has been lurking for a while. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
 I just talked with Ryan and here are the new improvements :

 - Direct button to disable vol control
 - Line-in socket on front panel
 - newly designed front panel
 - OpAmp in the DAC is "socketed". Makes it easier for people to switch OpAmp. 

 And here are some pictures of the final design :
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/6410/final17.jpg


----------



## boomy3555

Am I the only one here curious as to why the headphone out is not part of the tube section ? It would seem a bit silly to go through the trouble of building a tube amp and then not have that tube flavor go to the headphone out as well. At least there should be seperate HP out for the tube section. If there was, this amp would be a hell of a contender in the price range.


----------



## moodyrn

This is interesting. Based on the location of buttons, I wonder if this is an entirely new design. Grant Fidelity has stated on their forum that since they are exclusive North American retailer of this unit, after November mav audio would no longer sell this. They also state that they will receive the existing stock that mav audio would have left. I thought it was a bunch of bull, but looking at the timing of the new design, now I'm not so sure. They also state that pacific valve would no longer be selling the Xiansheng DAC 01. I've noticed that pacific valve have dropped the price from 299 to 275. I would really like to see pics of the internals of the newly revised mav.


----------



## bearmann

It'd be strange if Ryan's new DAC would be based on a totally different design. I think that he changed the faceplate and connectivity on purpose to avoid too much resemblance to Grant Fidelity's DAC...

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## FraGGleR

He probably has to change enough things to avoid litigation (wouldn't really work), or his access to the factory (more likely). At any rate, it seems like a bunch of improvements. As long as he keeps it as nice looking as the first one, and doesn't take a step back in sound quality (and doesn't make it too expensive), then he might have a winner on his hands. For the price and seeming quality, I am surprised this didn't get more pub here. It seems that lesser quality products become wildly popular while some get lost in the night.

 As for the tube being used for the headphone out, I don't know enough about the technology to speculate properly, but would it be possible to use the tube analog out to hook into the analog in and play through the headphones? Or would that create some infinite loop thing and tear a hole in the universe (and probably break the amp)?


----------



## markop2003

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FraGGleR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As for the tube being used for the headphone out, I don't know enough about the technology to speculate properly, but would it be possible to use the tube analog out to hook into the analog in and play through the headphones? Or would that create some infinite loop thing and tear a hole in the universe (and probably break the amp)?_

 

Nice idea but it wouldn't work, the line outs are muted as soon as you put the headphone jack in.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_AFAIK the default opamp is the NE5532 - one of the worst and oldest opamps in audio circuits. Even replacing it with a LM4562NA should result in a significantly enhanced sound._

 

Meh, i say go all out or don't bother at all 
 Anyway the improvement would have to be worth the effort of the soldering job, i guess i could just add sockets then i'ld have them there if i want to change them in the future.

 Mine arrived today, very nice and the amp is very powerful. I would note though that the standard cables are bargain bin (kinda obvious, the optical feels like fishing line). 
 Maybe it's just terrible tube (most likely) or maybe i just don't like tube sound, either way the tube output sounds lazy, there's just no real punch therel. Solid state however is nice and clear. 
 Overall it sounds very bassy at the moment, maybe that'll tighten up later after burn in. I'll leave it on over night and see if it's changed in the morning.


----------



## moodyrn

I don't know if yours came with the same tube as my xs version, but I didn't like the tube out much either. I changed it out with a nos GE jan 5670, and now it sounds much better. I even prefer it to the non tube output now.


----------



## bearmann

Do we already have a list of good substitute tubes?!


----------



## moodyrn

any nos 5670 would be a big improvement over the stock tube. 5670s are widely available and are pretty cheap. I got mine for around 10.00.


----------



## unl3a5h3d

I think the price is already going up. The ebay link posted in the op got sold. So I searched for another. Here it is. It is now $239?


----------



## boomy3555

try the BUY IT NOW button at this link

Hardware specifications | Maverick Audio - Home of the amazing Tube Magic DAC + Headphone Amplifier + Tube Pre-Amp


----------



## BadassBob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_AFAIK the default opamp is the NE5532 - one of the worst and oldest opamps in audio circuits. Even replacing it with a LM4562NA should result in a significantly enhanced sound._

 

Apparently, the GF model uses the LF353N and not the NE5532 like the Mav Audio version. The plot thickens


----------



## jeycam

Ryan has told me that a new version is going to be ready in 10 days. I'll probably get it and compare to my Beresford.


----------



## moodyrn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *BadassBob* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Apparently, the GF model uses the LF353N and not the NE5532 like the Mav Audio version. The plot thickens 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The LF353N is also what I have. Well it figures. The grant fidelity version is the exact same as the xs version. They even say so on their forum. And the warranty is even througn xs as well. I've always been skeptical about the mav. There are a few differences which is why I went with the one directly from the oem. But still at that price you still can't go wrong. But I did get the xs cheaper than the mav which is even a better deal. And since it is the oem version, I don't have to worry about it not being legit(not saying the mav isn't, just don't have to worry about it).


----------



## BadassBob

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The LF353N is also what I have. Well it figures. The grant fidelity version is the exact same as the xs version. They even say so on their forum. And the warranty is even througn xs as well. I've always been skeptical about the mav. There are a few differences which is why I went with the one directly from the oem. But still at that price you still can't go wrong. But I did get the xs cheaper than the mav which is even a better deal. And since it is the oem version, I don't have to worry about it not being legit(not saying the mav isn't, just don't have to worry about it)._

 

Have you rolled tubes in yours at all? I have one on the way, along with some NOS Western Electric 396a's and Sylvania 5670's. I got a pretty good deal on the GF unit, and it will be used in conjunction with my Behringer SRC2496 for upsampling/reclocking purposes.


----------



## moodyrn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *BadassBob* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you rolled tubes in yours at all? I have one on the way, along with some NOS Western Electric 396a's and Sylvania 5670's. I got a pretty good deal on the GF unit, and it will be used in conjunction with my Behringer SRC2496 for upsampling/reclocking purposes._

 

Yes I have. I posted earlier that I replaced the stock tube with a nos ge 5670. It was a nice improvement over the stock tube(which wasn't very good). The sylvania should be a bigger improvement over the GE 5670. I use the opamp out to feed my speakers and the tube out to feed my stax amp. My lambda sigs were a little bright using the dac in my receiver. Using the tube output definitely has smoothed things out a bit. I'll probably do a bit more tube rolling in the near future.


----------



## elwappo99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Keras* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi everybody im new on this forum, but has been lurking for a while. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
 I just talked with Ryan and here are the new improvements :

 - Direct button to disable vol control
 - Line-in socket on front panel
 - newly designed front panel
 - OpAmp in the DAC is "socketed". Makes it easier for people to switch OpAmp. 

 And here are some pictures of the final design :
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/6410/final17.jpg_

 

From the looks of it, the line in, is just the analog 2 routed to the front. Don't see any major changes, other than that.


 I'm starting to really warm up to the mav. Got it running via SS out to my little dot mkiii, and it sounds fantastically detailed, and still very warm.


 Anyone know of any guides to replacing this opamp on the GF, or opamps in general, I'm a little hesitant to change it. Do we know the NE5532 is in the maverick, or is it just speculation?


----------



## BadassBob

As far as I can tell from the pics on the GF site, it appears to me the opamps are socketed. The pic isnt very big, so somebody with good eyes may want to take a look and see.


----------



## MartinV56

Hi, yesterday arrived my Xiang Sheng 01 Dac

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f7/inf...c-01-a-443930/

Hefei XiangSheng Electronic Co.,Ltd - Display - Products - DAC-01 Multifuctional Decoders/headphone/pre-amplifier

 I Replace the Chinese 6N3 with an Ericsson 2C51 a noticeable change.
 I use it only as Dac IMHO is better than Zhaolu 2.5c.
 The seller sent me a GE 5670 but is higher the 2C51.


----------



## BOCtunes

Well, I've had Maverick for two weeks and I have to say I love it. Use it primarily as a DAC, though it works well as a headphone amp as well. The sound is beautifully detailed and very pleasant to listen to even after long hours. I'm running it through the tube (6n3) that came with it, I have already purchased a couple of other tubes to play around and see what works best. Anyway, after a week of burning in Mav sounds great and it's an awesome buy, it looks pretty attractive too.
 As for the opamp speculations, quite frankly I don't give a damn what they put in it, the fact is it sounds great and if it takes horseshi.. to make it sound good I'll take it . By the way, Benchmark dac1 uses NE5532 and costs $1000, read this post NE5532 Opamp - Benchmark so it shouldn't be that bad ... there soooo many variables to make a good DAC ... Having said that I have no clue what opamp is inside the Mav, but it's doing the job well. I think that all three versions are pretty much identical, you just have to make a choice you're most comfortable with, sound-wise /price-wise you can't go wrong.


----------



## Currawong

So BOCtunes, what gear have you used before that you can compare it with? Since your first post is unexpectedly enthusiastic, it has to be asked if you have any association with the company, or were you asked to make your post by anyone?

 The Benchmark has a reputation for having a poor headphone amp, something I can attest to from experience, and doesn't used the NE5532 any longer, by the way.


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So BOCtunes, what gear have you used before that you can compare it with? Since your first post is unexpectedly enthusiastic, it has to be asked if you have any association with the company, or were you asked to make your post by anyone?

 The Benchmark has a reputation for having a poor headphone amp, something I can attest to from experience, and doesn't used the NE5532 any longer, by the way._

 


 Currawong, Do you remember when you were a newbee? It's not unexpected to have a newbee post very exciting impressions. Many things can amaze when your new to audiophile. I highly doubt if he's in anyway connects to Ryan or Maverick.


----------



## moodyrn

I have owned and listened to a lot of dacs and amps, and I have to agree with his statments. Will it beat 1000 dacs, no. But it's not far behind, and for the price it is an amazing value. It's definitely more than I was expecting. I primarily bought it to take with me on trips/vacations because of it's modest size. But this thing has been good enough to use daily with some of my other equipment. Right now I'm using the tube out for my staxs.


----------



## BOCtunes

Currawong: 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, I guess if my first post was negative it would make me more believable. There's tones of people out there who happen to be reading posts by you guys without ever contributing, after all, who wants to spend time answering association speculations after their first post. I merely expressed my experience with the MAV DAC and think that any of the three would be equal for the task. The Mav improved my X-fi output tremendously (expected) and is equal to my Marantz cd player (hence my unexpected enthusiasm ), that is all that matters to me. Hey Ryan, if you happen to read this, feel free to send me another unit since I'm so unexpectedly enthusiastic ... I will not answer any other speculations, have no time for it ...


----------



## elwappo99

Well if anyone cares/ is paying attention $210 for the new design shipping end of the month. They're up on ebay. 

 Ran into a problem with mine. The line out using the tube has gone out. Completely out, no sound or anything. unfortunately, I'm at school and I can't get the casing off with what I've got here. Maybe it's just the tube that went out, or maybe something more? I'm afraid to try and do a warranty repair, because of shipping cost, and uncertainty if I'd get it back. Any advice?


----------



## moodyrn

That's why I chose to get the oem version. Too many uncertainties about the mav.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's why I chose to get the oem version. Too many uncertainties about the mav._

 

Don't really know what you mean by "uncertainties"... 
 I bought one of Ryan's new DACs mainly because Ryan answered all my (pre-order!) questions quick and proficient. Don't know why anybody would be anxious about sending a device back to Ryan for repair. 

 IMHO Ryan's new DAC is even more a no brainer: You get the 5670 tube, swappable opamps, sleek design for the same price as or even cheaper than the Xiang Shen...

 Well I'll wait till my unit arrives for further and profound opinions.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## moodyrn

Well probably because I was originally looking at the mav because of the black finish. But I sent him six emails asking him questions about the unit. He failed to
 respond to any of my emails. Also
 someone else posted about the case not being lined up correctly. I'm sure other were satisfied, but for me this was enough to chose to go in another direction. And also, I only paid 187 shipped for the oem version, and I was able to order it with the preamp bypassed to use the outputs strickly as a dac lineout. And I can change it back just by changing some jumpers which the mav won't do. There's some soldering involed to
 bypass the preamp with the mav. And lastly, I'm covered by the oem warranty which I confirmed with the oem. So it ended up being a nobrainer for me.

 Please forgive the incorrect grammer. I'm away on vacation enjoying my xs, and Ive had about 4 glasses
 of cognac. Another reasson y I like this unit. It's small size allows me to take it on trips. LoL.


----------



## bundee1

Is it possible to use HDAMs in the maverick?


----------



## boomy3555

I asked that question as well.Here was the answer: 
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/6143445-post110.html

 I've hade mine open and I saw plenty of room for a HDAM.


----------



## elwappo99

Strange, but my tube out is working fine now. Pretty unexplainable. I found resetting the line out helps when there's a problem that comes up. 

 Has anyone been able to actually open it up? 

 He says they come with a 5670, but can anyone confirm that? And anyone for sure know which opamp was in it?


----------



## boomy3555

I had it open and I can confirm the 5670 tube not not the OPamp.


----------



## elwappo99

boomy, I'd be interested to hear your impression of the maverick, when you get a chance. You've heard enough different sources to give a good impression of it. Any thoughts that stood out?


----------



## boomy3555

I have not had many Solid State amps to compare it to. but I can definitely hold it's own against the EF2's and Little Dots. I'm just burning in the Zero and considering the
 differences the Mav can hold up to it as well. About 60% as powerful as the Zero, the Mav also has many more features. like multiple inputs which makes it better if you have multiple sources. The DAC and AMP on the SS side of the Mav were again quite good. about 80% of the Zero. The tube preamp is like an extra thing that is there but not really part of the whole Mav it'self. I don't really need to preamp from one tube to another (EF2) so the tube section is wasted on me. I have the Earth HDAM in the Zero and even though it's just buurning in, Im very impressed. I'm trying to justify buy this instead of saving for the Compass. I can tell you though. The compass I heard at a recent meet with the "Sun" HDAM ran giant mega circles around the Zero.

 So if I were to place them in order of preferrence:

 Compass 399.00
 Zero 190.00 with the earth upgrade
 Maverick 200.00


----------



## moodyrn

My impressions are quite different. While I agree the compass runs circles around the zero, but so does the my xs version. The xs amp is just as powerful as the compass and way more powerful than the zero. The zero couldn't do any justice to my 600 ohm sextetts and not much for my senns either. I don't have to go past 10:30 on the volume knob with my sextetts. The amp on the compass is a little more refined than the xs, but not as detailed. I actually like the dac on the xs better than the compass. For me
 this is where the compass is lacking. I'm now beginning to
 really wonder about the mav since you say the amp on the zero is more powerful.


----------



## boomy3555

I still say the amp on the Zero is about 60-80% more powerful than the Maverick. Now that being said, I used the maverick more for the switching and spent most of my time using it as the pre-amp into the EF1. I just didn't like the regular output from the DAC. Also keep in mind that all of my headphones are easy to drive and I have not heard any high inpedence cans on either the Maverick or Zero. I did hear some HD650's on the Compass at the meet where I felt the compass rocked.


----------



## elwappo99

with my hd650s on my mav, I listen comfortably at 9-10, and anything past 12 is way too much.


----------



## moodyrn

I wonder if anything wrong with his. The amp in the zero isn't that powerful, and t say that the zero is 60-70% more powerful than the mav makes me wonder if something is going on. Other users of the mav reported of it being very powerful. I've owned both the compass and the xs, and I must say that the amp in the xs is at least as powerful as the amp in the compass.


----------



## elwappo99

Maybe he got a super-powered zero?


----------



## boomy3555

I have 50 ohm Fostex T50 RP on my head right now (these are my highest Imp.)and the Zero volume is around 3 on a scale of 0-10. I don't have any 300 or 600 ohm cans to audition. I still standy by my impression that the Maverick is not as powerful as the Zero. Think what you will. I'm not bashing the Mav. Just giving ellwappo my inpressions as asked.


----------



## JustVisit

Hello folks, I am "the Ryan" from Maverick Audio.
 Finally I made up my mind to join this discussion since I saw there are some confusions about my product in this thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I want to clarify:
 - The OpAmp used in the DAC is NS LF353N, we have never used any other model before including the NE5535 

 - Tube we use is a Chinese made NOS 6N3 (it is a 5670 clone). We are in the progress to get a batch of GE 5670 NOS tubes (to give customer option when purchase), however it will take a while to arrive. 

 - To moodyrn
 We use a pretty good support desk system to receive/reply email. However, from time to time, our reply email get blocked by spam filter (especially for folks using yahoo). Sometime I have to use my personal email to reply to some customer's reply. I guess that's probably the case for your not receiving our reply.

 - To elwappo99
 You don't need to be afraid to contact us for support issues. We are pretty open and honest on any issues. In most cases, you don't even need to send the unit back -- as we can send you replacement tube / PCB directly. As for your issue, my guess is it probably caused by a loose tube or cable. You may can try unplug /re-plug the tube and the cables connectors in the unit.

 Guys please feel free to let me know if you have any other questions, I am officially "on board" in head-fi.org


----------



## Boringz

Ryan of Maverick: I'm having problems with the pre-out, the right channel seems intermittent and sometimes its softer.. I tried contacting your Singapore dealer Stereo to have it replaced but the new set still has the same problem... what could be wrong?


----------



## elwappo99

Ryan - It is a big sign of you backing your product to see you here. I'm not sure what caused it, but after 2 days, the tube out worked. 

 Sometimes, I've noticed that 1 channel on the line out won't work, and if I plug in a headphone source, and then unplug it, the output will work. It could have been something like that.


----------



## weibby

I'm wondering Ryan, why are you not telling us the DAC chip?
 If a vendor wish to copy, it'll be copied anyway and thats how it's been.

 If you could give us the information, I would gladly buy it..
 But all this cloud of uncertainty really is frustrating.


----------



## elwappo99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm wondering Ryan, why are you not telling us the DAC chip?
 If a vendor wish to copy, it'll be copied anyway and thats how it's been.

 If you could give us the information, I would gladly buy it..
 But all this cloud of uncertainty really is frustrating._

 

Ryan states it is LF353N


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elwappo99* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryan - It is a big sign of you backing your product to see you here. I'm not sure what caused it, but after 2 days, the tube out worked. 

 Sometimes, I've noticed that 1 channel on the line out won't work, and if I plug in a headphone source, and then unplug it, the output will work. It could have been something like that._

 

It sounds it might be the problem from headphone jack. As you know, once you insert the headphone in, it will mute both the line-out and tube pre-out. In your case, the metal clip in your headphone jack might be too loose/tight, even you unplugged the headphone, the metal clip still not back to the old position, the result -- you have 1 channel no sound. After you inserted headphone again, the metal clip get back to original position and everything go back to normal.

 To solve the problem you have --- maybe you can try to plug/unplug your headphone continuously for few times. That probably will fix the issue.

 We already used the best headphone jack available in the reasonable price range (we can not afford to put high-end headphone jack 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). In our new revision, we canceled the "mute" function, and it should make this issue go away permanently.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Boringz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryan of Maverick: I'm having problems with the pre-out, the right channel seems intermittent and sometimes its softer.. I tried contacting your Singapore dealer Stereo to have it replaced but the new set still has the same problem... what could be wrong?_

 

I am aware of your issue. however, I couldn't reproduce the problem in my testing environment and you are the only one report this issue so far. It's good you are here and we can "sit down" and diagnose what might be the cause
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 Let me try to summarize detail of your issue, from the information I got from our S'pore dealer:

 - You connect the DAC to your Tube Headphone Amp, via Tube Pre-out.
 - Everything is working fine, until you plug your headphone into the DAC, then unplug the headphone. Then you notice the intermittent issue from the headphone connected to your tube headphone amp.

 Please tell me if everything I described is correct. Also, let me know
 - Does the same thing happen to solid state out?
 - Your headphone Amp's model.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm wondering Ryan, why are you not telling us the DAC chip?
 If a vendor wish to copy, it'll be copied anyway and thats how it's been.

 If you could give us the information, I would gladly buy it..
 But all this cloud of uncertainty really is frustrating._

 

It's a long story.
 I try to make it short -- the design I use, was co-developed by my manufacturing partner. He doesn't feel comfortable to disclose this info -- as it will make the design too easy to be copied by somebody else (Yes it still can be copied, but you'll need to spend extra effort). In the end, we agree to keep this information for a period of time.

 In my opinion, DAC chip model is not "that" important just as it's not that important if the DAC is capable of 96Khz or 192Khz. It's the circuit design, the analog stage, the power source which makes the bigger impact than the chip model. We already have sold quite a few units, the feedback so far has been great. I don't see much "uncertainty"


----------



## elwappo99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaverickAudio* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It sounds it might be the problem from headphone jack. As you know, once you insert the headphone in, it will mute both the line-out and tube pre-out. In your case, the metal clip in your headphone jack might be too loose/tight, even you unplugged the headphone, the metal clip still not back to the old position, the result -- you have 1 channel no sound. After you inserted headphone again, the metal clip get back to original position and everything go back to normal.

 To solve the problem you have --- maybe you can try to plug/unplug your headphone continuously for few times. That probably will fix the issue.

 We already used the best headphone jack available in the reasonable price range (we can not afford to put high-end headphone jack 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). In our new revision, we canceled the "mute" function, and it should make this issue go away permanently._

 

I definitely just slid a pair of headphones in and out once or twice and it solves it. Only has happened two or three times in a hundred hours of use


----------



## Badd99

Ryan, I feel a buy it now of 199 would cause me to buy this...


----------



## Boringz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaverickAudio* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am aware of your issue. however, I couldn't reproduce the problem in my testing environment and you are the only one report this issue so far. It's good you are here and we can "sit down" and diagnose what might be the cause
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 Let me try to summarize detail of your issue, from the information I got from our S'pore dealer:

 - You connect the DAC to your Tube Headphone Amp, via Tube Pre-out.
 - Everything is working fine, until you plug your headphone into the DAC, then unplug the headphone. Then you notice the intermittent issue from the headphone connected to your tube headphone amp.

 Please tell me if everything I described is correct. Also, let me know
 - Does the same thing happen to solid state out?
 - Your headphone Amp's model._

 

Ryan: Thanks for your reply. 

 I am using Heed canamp and the channel imbalanced is apparently the same connecting the tube or solid-state pre-out.

 The thing is, when I got it 2 weeks ago everything was ok for a day or so then the imbalance sound came in. 

 Your Singapore dealer was trying to check what was wrong when I had the problem because they apparently had similar problems with their demo set. So the only thing I could think of was to request for an exchange which they did. 

 Again it works for a start and the next day right after I switch on the set, the imbalance problem came bugging me again.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Boringz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryan: Thanks for your reply. 

 I am using Heed canamp and the channel imbalanced is apparently the same connecting the tube or solid-state pre-out.

 The thing is, when I got it 2 weeks ago everything was ok for a day or so then the imbalance sound came in. 

 Your Singapore dealer was trying to check what was wrong when I had the problem because they apparently had similar problems with their demo set. So the only thing I could think of was to request for an exchange which they did. 

 Again it works for a start and the next day right after I switch on the set, the imbalance problem came bugging me again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

My S'pore dealer said everything works okay until he inserted the headphone in the DAC, and then he got the same issue as you have.

 Anyway, why don't you submit a support ticket to us and we can continue the discussion from there? I afraid the trouble shooting might take too much space in this thread


----------



## Boringz

Agree.


----------



## weibby

Does the new D1 have the same issue?
 The main reason I'm interested in this, is the tube preouts.
 From what I gathered this problem only plague the old XS OEM A2?


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the new D1 have the same issue?
 The main reason I'm interested in this, is the tube preouts.
 From what I gathered this problem only plague the old XS OEM A2?_

 

We have done throughout testing on the new D1 and didn't find any issue like that. In fact, even for the old model, among all the units sold, we only have our dealer in Singapore reporting this issue, we are now in the progress of investigating the possible cause. 
 I suspect it might caused by the headphone jack as elwappo99 just reported and fixed. If that proved to be the case, then the new D1 is 100% problem free, as we canceled the "mute" circuit in the headphone jack in the D1.


----------



## Rybakoff

*I've tested my new DAC with E-MU 0202 soundcard*
 with 44.1 kHz and 16-bit preferences.
 .
*MODE*TUBE OUT / Normal OUT
*Frequency response (from 40 Hz to 15 kHz), dB:*+0.03, -0.13 / +0.02, -0.09
*Noise level, dB (А):*-89.9 / -90.2
*Dynamic range, dB (А):* 89.8 / 89.6
*THD, %:* 0.166 / 0.046
*IMD + Noise, %:* 0.185 / 0.085
*Stereo crosstalk, dB:*-61.8 / -61.3


----------



## weibby

This is the D1 right?


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is the D1 right?_

 

This is not D1. We haven't started to ship D1 yet


----------



## lameduck

Well I just put in an order for the new D1, judging from my receipt number I'm the 38th guy to order this thing from the website. Anyway it's interesting that with such an inexpensive product Maverick still able to provide a host of options. If the SQ is some what acceptable I'd say that Ryan has winner on his hand. On a side note, I plan to rolling some tubes with this dac and is a bit confused by the variant of NOS tubes out there, why some 5670 tubes are more expensive than other even thought they are of the same brand? Any one has any recommendation? 

 I will do a mini review of the dac, pre and post tube rolling


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lameduck* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I just put in an order for the new D1, judging from my receipt number I'm the 38th guy to order this thing from the website. Anyway it's interesting that with such an inexpensive product Maverick still able to provide a host of options. If the SQ is some what acceptable I'd say that Ryan has winner on his hand. On a side note, I plan to rolling some tubes with this dac and is a bit confused by the variant of NOS tubes out there, why some 5670 tubes are more expensive than other even thought they are of the same brand? Any one has any recommendation? 

 I will do a mini review of the dac, pre and post tube rolling




_

 

I am no tube expert, but I try to put my 2 cents.

 There were quite a few factories manufacturing 5670 tubes in the past. Even for the same factory, there have been different versions.

 It is believed western made 5670 has better sound quality than the Chinese/Russian clones.

 GE, Sylvania, Raytheon, WE they all made 5670 tubes. 

 You can try GE and Sylvania JAN (Military) version 5670 tube. They are widely available and reasonable priced. I believe most our customers replacing the stock tube with GE/Sylvania JAN tube.

 For better performance, you can try WE396A or Raytheon windmill getter, they are more expensive than above 2 models. The WE396A is probably the best one, but it is also the most expensive tube ( ~ $50 per tube).

 There is also Russian 6N3P-I, a 5670 clone made for Russia military. I've never tried this tube and don't know if it is any better than the Chinese tube used in our DAC. The Chinese tube comes with the DAC was manufactured by Beijing Tube factory in the 70's for Chinese military.


----------



## Zaluss

I'm thinking about picking up one of these to replace my current creative x-fi usb soundcard. I don't do any headphones at all (haha while I'm posting on head-fi...) and plan on using this strictly as a dac. At the given price I'd love to try one of these out.


----------



## TheBigCW

Wow! I've been looking for a DAC/Amp and this one looks like the one for me.


 Won't be able to order until at least Christmas though. ]:


----------



## MartinV56

Canuck Audio Mart &bull; View topic - Grant Fidelity DAC-09 first impressions
 About 

 Xiang Sheng, Maverick, Grant Fidelity,

 "The same dog but with a different collar"


----------



## TheBigCW

WOW! I emailed Ryan from Maverick and not only did he respond within an HOUR of me placing the ticket, he answered my question courteously and respectfully. I emailed to ask if they would be raising the price after the pre-order special. I explained I could not purchase them now, since I am a student, and money is tight. He responded quickly and politely, and, get this, said that, while they will begin charging for shipping after the deal is over, when I order, he'll offer me the $199 shipped price! What a nice guy! If Maverick Audio keeps their customer service this stellar, they will have MANY customers in line. I can only hope the quality of the D1 is as good as the quality of the customer service I received today.


----------



## lameduck

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MartinV56* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Canuck Audio Mart &bull; View topic - Grant Fidelity DAC-09 first impressions
 About 

 Xiang Sheng, Maverick, Grant Fidelity,

 "The same dog but with a different collar"_

 

Thanks for pointing out the obvious and well-discussed fact. Guess how many brand name TVs are actually manufactured by a single company from China call TCL. This thread is served to weight in the pros and cons of each brand. So let's just hope that Ryan pre-sale support = his post-sale support.


----------



## weibby

Given that XS and GF tied up, kicking maverick out of the picture.
 Rachel has already said that Maverick is not allowed to rebrand the XS DAC01
 and remaining stock is already sold back to XS.

 This only comes down to 2 things -
 1. D1 is a XS mutation
 or
 2. Whatever that has been discussed within that thread posted is a farce..

 So I won't say exactly the same collar.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lameduck* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for pointing out the obvious and well-discussed fact. Guess how many brand name TVs are actually manufactured by a single company from China call TCL. This thread is served to weight in the pros and cons of each brand. So let's just hope that Ryan pre-sale support = his post-sale support._

 

I agree. Let's focus on more meaningful topics. After all, what matters is not where it is being made. Feature, sound/build quality, price and customer support are more important.

 Let me clarify: Tube Magic D1 is our exclusive product/design. I personally have spent a great deal of time in developing it.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Given that XS and GF tied up, kicking maverick out of the picture.
 Rachel has already said that Maverick is not allowed to rebrand the XS DAC01
 and remaining stock is already sold back to XS._

 

Actually, this is not what was said. In the thread Rachel said that XS has entered a distribution deal where Maverick will no longer be rebranding the XS after November, not that they were not allowed to.

 So, seeing as how this is... I couldn't see the new D1 as anything but a complete redesign of the Tube Magic/Dac-09/whatever-you-want-to-call-it. An overhaul of a rebrand is NOT necessarily a bad thing in my opinion. If you want to call it a mutation, feel free. I know I'll be definitely checking it out.


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree. Let's focus on more meaningful topics. After all, what matters is not where it is being made. Feature, sound/build quality, price and customer support are more important.

 Let me clarify: Tube Magic D1 is our exclusive product/design. I personally have spent a great deal of time in developing it._

 

That's good to have one of the designers in this thread, the Cirrus Logic dac have for main D / A converter and National Semiconductor LF353N op-amp for which such LF353N replace by the LM4562?

 You think or what improvements can be made,thanks


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MartinV56* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's good to have one of the designers in this thread, the Cirrus Logic dac have for main D / A converter and National Semiconductor LF353N op-amp for which such LF353N replace by the LM4562?

 You think or what improvements can be made,thanks_

 

I haven't tried LM4562 with our DAC. The LF353N works very well in our design, and I don't think there will be big improvement. We have tried a few BB OpAmp, to me the improvement is not significant.


----------



## MartinV56

Thanks,


----------



## hototay

Well, after a couple of sleepless nights of trying to decide which DAC to buy (I'm choosing between the Beresford TC 7520, Musical Fidelity V-DAC and Maverick Audio D1) and a very comprehensive reasearch and review reading on the net, I finally bit the bullet and pulled the trigger (funny, biting the bullet after pulling the trigger? lol) and ordered the Mav D1, even as I have no reference as to its SQ. I was sold by its looks and the option of a tube out. We just hope and pray that this product will not disappoint.

 p.s. I ordered 5 pcs. free sample of LM4562 from National Semiconducor, and will try it with the DAC when they arrive and see what happens. Jan GE 5670 tubes are on their way also.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_p.s. I ordered 5 pcs. free sample of LM4562 from National Semiconducor, and will try it with the DAC when they arrive and see what happens. Jan GE 5670 tubes are on their way also._

 

That's pretty funny actually. Today I went and ordered a whole TON of free sample OPAMPS for my upcoming Maverick purchase. I'm pretty pumped to say the least, I haven't even ordered it xD


----------



## hototay

TheBigCW, I'm just curious. What's holding you back from purchasing this DAC?


----------



## weibby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually, this is not what was said. In the thread Rachel said that XS has entered a distribution deal where Maverick will no longer be rebranding the XS after November, not that they were not allowed to.

 So, seeing as how this is... I couldn't see the new D1 as anything but a complete redesign of the Tube Magic/Dac-09/whatever-you-want-to-call-it. An overhaul of a rebrand is NOT necessarily a bad thing in my opinion. If you want to call it a mutation, feel free. I know I'll be definitely checking it out. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well I was pointing out that it can't be an XS OEM anymore due to that fact.
 As it is, i'd see it more towards a mutation - the hush hush of ryan only fuels speculations.

 But i'm going to check it out anyway when it lands in my country where I can have an audition.


----------



## weibby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, after a couple of sleepless nights of trying to decide which DAC to buy (I'm choosing between the Beresford TC 7520, Musical Fidelity V-DAC and Maverick Audio D1) and a very comprehensive reasearch and review reading on the net, I finally bit the bullet and pulled the trigger (funny, biting the bullet after pulling the trigger? lol) and ordered the Mav D1, even as I have no reference as to its SQ. I was sold by its looks and the option of a tube out. We just hope and pray that this product will not disappoint.

 p.s. I ordered 5 pcs. free sample of LM4562 from National Semiconducor, and will try it with the DAC when they arrive and see what happens. Jan GE 5670 tubes are on their way also._

 


 For a moment I tot i read you ordered 5 pcs of D1 haha.

 Do you have an estimated shipping date?
 A picture of the innards will be nice if you can!


----------



## cha_indian

Damm it ! I just ordered a HiDIY DAC kit and it looks like i may have spent more on the kit ... 

 The board of Maverick seems to be similar one to the kit .... Does anyone have both ??


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For a moment I tot i read you ordered 5 pcs of D1 haha.

 Do you have an estimated shipping date?
 A picture of the innards will be nice if you can!_

 


 Estimated shipping date is Dec 1 according to Ryan. The innards loooks identical to the Xiansheng DAC 01, at least the previous model, the Maverick Audio Tube Magic DAC.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/member...cuit-board.jpg

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/4306/xiansheng.jpg


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cha_indian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damm it ! I just ordered a HiDIY DAC kit and it looks like i may have spent more on the kit ... 

 The board of Maverick seems to be similar one to the kit .... Does anyone have both ??_

 


 I dont' think they are identical. The HiDIY looks neat though judging from the picture.


----------



## weibby

Thats the old A2, the new D1 is not out yet and nobody has seen the innards.


----------



## lameduck

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's pretty funny actually. Today I went and ordered a whole TON of free sample OPAMPS for my upcoming Maverick purchase. I'm pretty pumped to say the least, I haven't even ordered it xD_

 

Where did you ordered those free opamp, please share!


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_TheBigCW, I'm just curious. What's holding you back from purchasing this DAC? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm a student, so... to put it lightly... insufficient funds. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm selling some things on eBay and Christmas and my Birthday are coming up soon, so I hope by Christmas I'll have enough $$$.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thats the old A2, the new D1 is not out yet and nobody has seen the innards._

 

We have sent out a few units for the first batch pre-order customers. I guess you will see the “anatomy” picture pretty soon.


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We have sent out a few units for the first batch pre-order customers. I guess you will see the “anatomy” picture pretty soon.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

When exactly was the first batch shipped and when will be the estimated arrival of the DACs. I read from feedbacks from eBay that you ship pretty fast.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When exactly was the first batch shipped and when will be the estimated arrival of the DACs. I read from feedbacks from eBay that you ship pretty fast._

 

First batch was shipped on 25th of Nov. We've informed all the customers who got their order shipped. For those who haven't got "order shipped" note, their order will be shipped out around 1st of Dec.

 Our courier (DHL) is pretty fast to US ( 2-4 working days) and Canada (3-5 working days). As to Europe, it will take 3-7 working days depending different countries.


----------



## TheBigCW

Can't wait to see pics and first impressions.


----------



## weibby

Yes me too, anticipating it eagerly.


----------



## TheBigCW

Has anyone received theirs yet?


----------



## hototay

Impressions please for those who have received their MAV DACs already.


----------



## uberburger101

I just tried my friend's unit (the old one, not the D1). Really surprised me at how good and powerful it was, with both the HF2 and the HD600. Count me very interested, will be great for the hostel.


----------



## Zaluss

Just ordered one! Looks good. I don't use headphones at the moment but this looks like a nice replacement to my creative x-fi usb sound card


----------



## hototay

Finally, mine has shipped today. I'm quite eager to get a hold of this little box! can't wait!


----------



## bearmann

Got mine this moment. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Can't post any pics of the inside at this moment because I don't have the necessary tools at hand. Will have to wait until it has reached room temperature (around 5°C outdoors).

 EDIT:

 Thanks to my Leatherman I was able to open the Maverick. I already replaced the stock tube (6N3P) with a NOS GE JAN 5670W.
Here you can find some pictures...

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## DannagE

Nice bearmann. Been watching this thread closely waiting for another update as I'm in the market for an amp.

 Got an initial update for us as to how its sounding?

 Anyone else got one of these yet?

 Dan


----------



## bearmann

Hi Dan, 
 so far I am using the tube out with the mentioned NOS 5670W. I am listening to Vienna Teng through my KRK Rokit RP6 G2 - sounds wonderful. Deep bass (well for 6" monitors at least), excellent voice.
 But don't forget that the Maverick just arrived two hours ago!

*To all Maverick DAC owners!*
 Got somebody of you guys WASAPI or kernel streaming in foobar working? 
 At this moment I can only use the Maverick through direct sound. WASAPI and kernel streaming are throwing an error message.

 regards.
 bearmann


----------



## hototay

Thanks Bearman for sharing your initial impression of your new Mav Dac. Are you planning to replace the OPAMP also? There really is no surprise as to the innards (XS & GF DAC 09) is there? This would probably be one of my longest seven days of my life - waiting for this DAC. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My pair of JAN GE 5670 (LM4562 OPAMPs also) are on their way intended to replace the stock tube once my unit arrives. This is my first time to roll tubes. How hard is it to do this? Is it true that you need to use a pair of gloves in order not to leave any finger or palm mark on the tube which will shorten its life?

 Please advise.


----------



## CANiSLAYu

Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. I recently bought a condo and have shared walls now, so no more rocking out with the speaker system whenever I please  Dusted off my old MisterX custom pimeta amp and bought a pair of Sennheiser HD595s because I thought I lost my Beyerdynamics DT770/80s in the move (turns out my brother "borrowed" them without my knowledge, so I have those back now too).

 Just when I had convinced myself that the amp was still good for my needs (just mp3s and gaming with my computer as the source, nothing fancy), I started trolling around the forums again (bad idea) and ended up deciding I needed to add at least a DAC to pair with the pimeta and wanted to spend under $200. Lo and behold, a beautiful looking DAC/amp combo for my $200 price point! The early reviews and involvement of the company's owner in this thread sold me on pre-ordering one of the D1's.

 I would post back with my thoughts when I get it, but honestly I don't know what the hell I'm talking about, so I doubt it would do anyone any good. Just a random "thanks" for everyone sharing their knowledge/input in the thread and message board.


----------



## weibby

thank you bearman!

 Looks like a mutation from the old XS oem to me actually.


----------



## cha_indian

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CANiSLAYu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. I recently bought a condo and have shared walls now, so no more rocking out with the speaker system whenever I please  Dusted off my old MisterX custom pimeta amp and bought a pair of Sennheiser HD595s because I thought I lost my Beyerdynamics DT770/80s in the move (turns out my brother "borrowed" them without my knowledge, so I have those back now too).

 Just when I had convinced myself that the amp was still good for my needs (just mp3s and gaming with my computer as the source, nothing fancy), I started trolling around the forums again (bad idea) and ended up deciding I needed to add at least a DAC to pair with the pimeta and wanted to spend under $200. Lo and behold, a beautiful looking DAC/amp combo for my $200 price point! The early reviews and involvement of the company's owner in this thread sold me on pre-ordering one of the D1's.

 I would post back with my thoughts when I get it, but honestly I don't know what the hell I'm talking about, so I doubt it would do anyone any good. Just a random "thanks" for everyone sharing their knowledge/input in the thread and message board._

 


 What other DACs do you own/listened to? what is your reference point for judging the SQ of Maverick?


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cha_indian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What other DACs do you own/listened to? what is your reference point for judging the SQ of Maverick?_

 

Hi Cha_indian,

 I didn't see anything in CANiSLAYu's post that points to him judging the SQ of the Maverick. I believe he's just being appreciative of this forum's input and was sold out likewise by the involvement of Ryan in this thread. I just hope Ryan will be as impressive and consistent in answering our "post-order" inquiries as he did with our pre order questions.

 Cheers!


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thank you bearman!

 Looks like a mutation from the old XS oem to me actually._

 

Indeed..


----------



## Zaluss

I wonder when the second batch ships out. My order status is just 'complete'


----------



## hototay

I think mine belongs to the 2nd batch. It was shipped 30 Nov.


----------



## Zaluss

Just viewed the website and looks like mine will probably be shipped Dec 8th. They also added an upgraded tube version for $20 more.


----------



## CANiSLAYu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Cha_indian,

 I didn't see anything in CANiSLAYu's post that points to him judging the SQ of the Maverick. I believe he's just being appreciative of this forum's input and was sold out likewise by the involvement of Ryan in this thread. I just hope Ryan will be as impressive and consistent in answering our "post-order" inquiries as he did with our pre order questions.

 Cheers!_

 

Precisely, I have no qualifications whatsoever, haha. I do have one question now though. I suppose in the end I'll have to test and see for myself, but with my Mac Pro I'll be able to connect to the D1 via USB or TOSLINK. Is there any quality/functional difference between the two, or should it be identical (digital vs digital)? Since the output on the Mac is TOSLINK mini, I think I'd prefer using USB so there's no chance of the mini adapter snapping off inside the 1/8" jack like I've read about on other posts.


----------



## TheBigCW

Wow. It looks great! I cannot wait to finally have the money saved up to buy one.

 Expect a LENGTHY review when I receive it, though. :]


----------



## Morkai

A good point for maverick audio : Ryan answers quickly, pro grade support. It's highly appreciated.

 *Will test it on both px100 and hd650
 *I don't expect much from it, but it looks cool
 *doubt that swapping tubes would make a difference since it's in the dac section.
 *Looks forward to seeing if changing op-amp does anything.

 In the end, i'm just looking for something to shield me from that noisy laptop of Dell when I listen through my computer.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CANiSLAYu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Precisely, I have no qualifications whatsoever, haha. I do have one question now though. I suppose in the end I'll have to test and see for myself, but with my Mac Pro I'll be able to connect to the D1 via USB or TOSLINK. Is there any quality/functional difference between the two, or should it be identical (digital vs digital)? Since the output on the Mac is TOSLINK mini, I think I'd prefer using USB so there's no chance of the mini adapter snapping off inside the 1/8" jack like I've read about on other posts._

 

USB will be the best choice. D1 has a USB sound card chip, the sole purpose of this sound card chip is to get "raw and unprocessed" digital music signal from the computer, it doesn't process the digital signal, it just pass the signal to the DAC chip. The idea is to get "as raw as possible" digital sound signal to the DAC, let the DAC do all the decoding job.

 If you use Toslink/optical connection, that means the digital signal will go through your PC's sound card chip. It may affect the digital sound signal a bit.


----------



## francisdemarte

Would the Maverick work well with low impedance cans like Audio Technicas? I have a ATH-W1000 that I'd like to use.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *francisdemarte* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would the Maverick work well with low impedance cans like Audio Technicas? I have a ATH-W1000 that I'd like to use._

 

If you go USB > Maverick > W1000 ... no. At least not without lowering the gain first.
 The headphone amp is insanely loud and powerful. Even with my very insensitive PX-100 it's loud at 7.30 and _very_ loud at 8.00... wouldn't recommend it.

 But lowering the gain isn't very hard work. You just need to change two resistors. Perhaps Ryan could provide us with the necessary info?!

 EDIT: as a little update on my part...

 After two (?!) days with my Maverick I am _very_ pleased. 
 USB > Maverick w/ NOS 5670W > KRK Rokit RP6 G2 sounds terrific. Very fluid, non-fatiguing and natural. Lovin' it.
 My ATH-W100 is waiting but, as I wrote above, I'll lower the gain first. Don't know why anybody would choose such a high gain these days.
 After that I'll swap some opamps. LME49720, LME49860, AD797, AD823, AD834 are all waiting patiently. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Honestly guys, this dac/amp combo is a bargain! Ryan has a top notch service. We exchanged like 20 (?!) mails so far and he's been always helpful and sincere. Even if you have very sensitive headphones - just lower the gain and be happy.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## moodyrn

I had the same results with the ad1000s when I owned them and also with my shure 840s. The power specs is pretty spot on, and for low impedance cans, this amp is extremely powerful. I also get a good amount of hiss with my lower impedance cans. But on the good side, all of my cans sound pretty nice out of it. It will have no problems powering even the hardest to drive cans(except the k1000s). It's funny, someone posted that their mav is only about 60% as powerful as their zero. Something must clearly be wrong there. 10:00 on the knob is enough for my 600ohm sextetts. And it's at least as powerful if not more than the compass.


----------



## hototay

so far, so good.


----------



## lameduck

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had the same results with the ad1000s when I owned them and also with my shure 840s. The power specs is pretty spot on, and for low impedance cans, this amp is extremely powerful. I also get a good amount of hiss with my lower impedance cans. But on the good side, all of my cans sound pretty nice out of it. It will have no problems powering even the hardest to drive cans(except the k1000s). It's funny, someone posted that their mav is only about 60% as powerful as their zero. Something must clearly be wrong there. 10:00 on the knob is enough for my 600ohm sextetts. And it's at least as powerful if not more than the compass._

 

Does this mean Grado cans are not well suited for this amp? Not that it will be a breaking point for me as I'm planning to use the D1 as a DAC feeding some tube amp, possibly Darkvoice or Cary(pending the economy brighten up a bit). Nonetheless it's nice to have good amp section on the D1 just for convenience's sake


----------



## bearmann

Don't mix things up... 
 "Low impedance" doesn't mean "high sensitive"
 Grados just have around 32Ohm but they aren't very sensitive.


----------



## moodyrn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't mix things up... 
 "Low impedance" doesn't mean "high sensitive"
 Grados just have around 32Ohm but they aren't very sensitive._

 

Agreed. Some low impedance cans are harder to drive than some high impedance cans. Impedance and sensitivity don't go hand in hand. All of my cans sound fine with this. Some do however have a decent amount of hiss, and I can't go far with with the volume knob. This may be a problem for some, but not for me. I only notice the hiss when music is not playing, but it's still there and I haven't noticed any channel imbalance with the volume knob turned low.


----------



## sp70

Hello. I just joined, this looks like a great place! I've been reading for quite awhile, but this thread made me really want to sign up.

 I read all the reviews on this thread thus far, and was pretty pleased with what this hybrid offered. I had been looking for one for ages. So I decided to finally pull the trigger, and now my D1 is happily on preorder. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I will be listening mainly to the headphone out, through the USB from my Thinkpad. My headphones are a Grado SR80 (with the bowl earcups.) This will be me just moving up from onboard sound, which I have been very displeased with. What do you think of this combination? 

 Once I get the amp, i'll be sure to add my little review of it on here.


----------



## sp70

What are some good OPAMPs for this? Phones will be SR80s. I'm pretty new to OPAMP rolling. How do I go about this? Do I need more than 1? I've heard about people getting free samples - how does that work out? Thanks for all advice in advance.


----------



## hototay

still no feedback/impressions?


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sp70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What are some good OPAMPs for this? Phones will be SR80s. I'm pretty new to OPAMP rolling. How do I go about this? Do I need more than 1? I've heard about people getting free samples - how does that work out? Thanks for all advice in advance. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You can get from various companies free samples. But unless you're planning to make a commercial product you shouldn't order free samples from any firm. Free sample programs are for researcher and engineers who want to try whether or not a specific opamp is suitable for their circuit design. Companies like National Semi, Texas Instr. or Analog Devices only provide those people with free samples because they hope that if the opamp/whatever fits, it will lead to a significant order. That will never be the case with a hobbyist who is trying to pimp his headphone amp...
 Long story short: You really should buy your opamps and shouldn't exploit the free samples program.

 That said, you could try many J-FET opamps, such as:
 AD823, AD79, OPA2132, OPA2604, and many many more
 You also could try some BJT opamps, but I'd be careful with that because the default opamp in the Maverick (LF353N) is a J-FET opamp.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## sp70

Thanks bearmann! 

 What OPAMP are you currently using? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do I simply swap the chips out whenever? No tools or resetting needed? (Aside from being off of course).


----------



## bearmann

Be sure to ground yourself first - opamps are very sensitive to EMI!
 Other than that you just need to turn off your Maverick and swap the opamps, right.

 Currently I am using the default LF353N because I'll first lower the gain of the line driver and headphone amp.
 I'll start opamp rolling with the AD797, AD823 and AD834, I think.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## CountChoculaBot

I've read through this thread since it's either the VALAB or this, as I'm looking for a warm/musical DAC.

 Is this basically a tube DAC? I know it has a tube pre-amp, but I'm not well versed on what that is. Can I connect it to a audio source, then connect it to my amp from the analog out, and the Mav's output would be influenced by the tube?

 What does the opamp affect? Does it affect the DAC out or is it influencing the amp only?


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CountChoculaBot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've read through this thread since it's either the VALAB or this, as I'm looking for a warm/musical DAC.

 Is this basically a tube DAC? I know it has a tube pre-amp, but I'm not well versed on what that is._

 

It's not a real tube DAC (read: there's always an opamp after DAC). The tube is only used to "flavour" the sound - if you want it.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CountChoculaBot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can I connect it to a audio source, then connect it to my amp from the analog out, and the Mav's output would be influenced by the tube?_

 

Yes, if you use the tube pre-amp out.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CountChoculaBot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What does the opamp affect? Does it affect the DAC out or is it influencing the amp only?_

 

Both. There are two opamps. One in the headphone amp and one as a line driver for the line out. Both are in sockets (read: swappable) and changing the opamps affects the sound quite noticeably.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## sp70

bearmann, 

 You mentioned lowering the gain of the line driver and headphone amp. How would one go about this? I suspect i'll need to as my cans are rather easy to drive...


----------



## bearmann

Ryan mailed me that you have to change R70 and R71. Currently they have 80 ohm and you can increase them to up to 470 ohm to lower the gain. (470 ohm should be unity gain, so no amplification at all) That's at least for the headphone amp. I am waiting for info regarding the pre amp.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## sp70

I hate to ask but...how would one change the R70 and R71? What sort of modification are we looking at? Whats the procedure? Thanks again bearmann, much appreciated.


----------



## bearmann

Desolder the current resistors (R70 and R71) and replace them with two other resistors (as I said, up to 470 ohm).

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sp70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hate to ask but...how would one change the R70 and R71? What sort of modification are we looking at? Whats the procedure? Thanks again bearmann, much appreciated. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

This will require you have certain level of "mod" skill. 
 The reason bearman want to mod the circuit is to lower the headphone output gain, since he is going to use a low impedance high sensitive headphone with it. You don't really need to do this, it will not improve the sound quality. By doing this, you also will bear the risk damaging the circuit board.

 The safest "mod" will be switching OpAmp and Tube.


----------



## bearmann

Absolutely right. If you've never before used a solder iron you probably shouldn't mess around with the circuit!
 Lowering the gain is only interesting if you're using some of the high sensitive Audio Technicas or Denons...

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's not a real tube DAC (read: there's always an opamp after DAC). The tube is only used to "flavour" the sound - if you want it.



 Yes, if you use the tube pre-amp out.



 Both. There are two opamps. One in the headphone amp and one as a line driver for the line out. Both are in sockets (read: swappable) and changing the opamps affects the sound quite noticeably.

 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

The interesting thing would be to turn it into a real tube dac, it is possible?, Thanks


----------



## bearmann

I don't think so... But honestly: I think the freedom you have with the maverick is quite outstanding (especially if you consider the price tag). You have the "tube sound", tube rolling, opamp rolling, solid state "sound"... you could even change the output transistors of the headphone amp to modify the sound! So why do you want a "true" (technically) tube DAC? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 best regards,
 bearmann


----------



## lameduck

well it's only preliminary, but seem like the maverick is not playing nice. Testing only Diana Krall, Fleetwood, and Norah Jone CDs right now, the vocal is a bit dry, Diana Krall sound like she has a cold, midrange is not very natural, maybe due to bad tube, tube not properly burned-in or both, top end a bit shrill and does not roll off very well, some plus points are the sound stage is acceptable, instrument separation is good, low-end is tight but not as well defined as I would like. Keep in mind that since this is still in the burn-in period and also I haven't roll any tube yet, things may change drammatically for the better. Also for some reasons the sound is a bit grainy, not sure if that's a problem or because of the design. Headphone gain is definitely high for Grado 325is but still very acceptable, no mod is needed, just dont turn the volume knob pass 10 o'clock. Well I'm gonna let the DAC settle in a bit more before drawing a final conclusion.
 Testing equipt. Pioneer Elite CD/Lossless flac via USB -> Mav D1 -> Rotel 1070 -> B&W Dm603.


----------



## Morkai

Dac received. Again, Ryan customer service is outstanding. As for the SQ, it will have to wait till next week.


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think so... But honestly: I think the freedom you have with the maverick is quite outstanding (especially if you consider the price tag). You have the "tube sound", tube rolling, opamp rolling, solid state "sound"... you could even change the output transistors of the headphone amp to modify the sound! So why do you want a "true" (technically) tube DAC? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 best regards,
 bearmann_

 

Thanks bearmann, 

 Only It interests me as pure dac to connect to a CD as a transport, I buy the Xiang Sheng s for use only as dac with my cd as transport, again thanks and best regards


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lameduck* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well it's only preliminary, but seem like the maverick is not playing nice. Testing only Diana Krall, Fleetwood, and Norah Jone CDs right now, the vocal is a bit dry, Diana Krall sound like she has a cold, midrange is not very natural, maybe due to bad tube, tube not properly burned-in or both, top end a bit shrill and does not roll off very well, some plus points are the sound stage is acceptable, instrument separation is good, low-end is tight but not as well defined as I would like. Keep in mind that since this is still in the burn-in period and also I haven't roll any tube yet, things may change drammatically for the better. Also for some reasons the sound is a bit grainy, not sure if that's a problem or because of the design. Headphone gain is definitely high for Grado 325is but still very acceptable, no mod is needed, just dont turn the volume knob pass 10 o'clock. Well I'm gonna let the DAC settle in a bit more before drawing a final conclusion.
 Testing equipt. Pioneer Elite CD/Lossless flac via USB -> Mav D1 -> Rotel 1070 -> B&W Dm603._

 

this is a bit alarming. hope your impression will change once the DAC settles in. I'll be receiving mine today, hopefully, i can hear it for myself within the day. did you try the SS output or just the tube out?


----------



## hototay

just got mine (yahoo!). the unit's construction looks and feels solid. the face plate is nice, made of thick aluminum. i'm still in the office, can't wait to try it when i get home!


----------



## elwappo99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lameduck* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_well it's only preliminary, but seem like the maverick is not playing nice. Testing only Diana Krall, Fleetwood, and Norah Jone CDs right now, the vocal is a bit dry, Diana Krall sound like she has a cold, midrange is not very natural, maybe due to bad tube, tube not properly burned-in or both, top end a bit shrill and does not roll off very well, some plus points are the sound stage is acceptable, instrument separation is good, low-end is tight but not as well defined as I would like. Keep in mind that since this is still in the burn-in period and also I haven't roll any tube yet, things may change drammatically for the better. Also for some reasons the sound is a bit grainy, not sure if that's a problem or because of the design. Headphone gain is definitely high for Grado 325is but still very acceptable, no mod is needed, just dont turn the volume knob pass 10 o'clock. Well I'm gonna let the DAC settle in a bit more before drawing a final conclusion.
 Testing equipt. Pioneer Elite CD/Lossless flac via USB -> Mav D1 -> Rotel 1070 -> B&W Dm603._

 

This was definitely my impression too, until I let it burn in. Let it burn in a good amount of time, it really really improves.


----------



## hototay

Dear ALL,
 Does this DAC (or any aother outboard dac for that matter) really needs "burn in" in order to meet its peak performance?

 I'm a bit disappointed with the Mav DAC because I did not notice (yet) any difference as regards to the SQ of my system.

 Here is what I did:

 I connected my DENON DVD 1940CI coaxial digital to the MAVERICK and connected the DVD's TOSLINK directly to my DENON AVR 1907 receiver and set the volume of each connections to same level so I can compare the two(A/B). I cannot seem to hear any difference in sound quality between the signal passing through the DAC and signal going directly to my receiver. My DENON amp is feeding a pair of Def Tech ProMonitor 800 connected to a ProSub 800. I still hope that things will improve. I received my unit yesterday and played it for 4 hours and left it overnight fed by my DVD player on repeat mode. I even left my amp on at zero volume.


----------



## weibby

I have a burning question, whats the major difference with the old XS OEM?


----------



## Hygienist

Most people believe that burn in does help. People post their thoughts on amps/DACs as the hours accumulate (burn in process) and don't get questioned on even dramatic sound changes, since it's pretty much accepted that burn in exists.



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dear ALL,
 Does this DAC (or any aother outboard dac for that matter) really needs "burn in" in order to meet its peak performance?

 I'm a bit disappointed with the Mav DAC because I did not notice (yet) any difference as regards to the SQ of my system.

 Here is what I did:

 I connected my DENON DVD 1940CI coaxial digital to the MAVERICK and connected the DVD's TOSLINK directly to my DENON AVR 1907 receiver and set the volume of each connections to same level so I can compare the two(A/B). I cannot seem to hear any difference in sound quality between the signal passing through the DAC and signal going directly to my receiver. My DENON amp is feeding a pair of Def Tech ProMonitor 800 connected to a ProSub 800. I still hope that things will improve. I received my unit yesterday and played it for 4 hours and left it overnight fed by my DVD player on repeat mode. I even left my amp on at zero volume._


----------



## MartinV56

I replaced the GE 2c51 by WE396A, the more clearly tell the difference


----------



## bearmann

@hototay:
 With all due respect, but those are $150/piece bookshelf speaker. The DENON isn't bad either and I would guess that you need a trained ear to hear any kind of difference between different sources in your setup.

 @MartinV56:
 Did you buy the WE396A online? If so, where? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## DannagE

Still waiting for shipping details for my order, proberly be part of the Dec 14th batch now. Looking forward to having a play with it before my woo gets here!

 Ordered it with the upgraded GE 5670 so hopefully will be nice with my speakers.

 Keep the reviews/opinions coming, always nice to read what other people have to say. And thanks for the pics Martin!


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@hototay:
 With all due respect, but those are $150/piece bookshelf speaker. The DENON isn't bad either and I would guess that you need a trained ear to hear any kind of difference between different sources in your setup.

 @MartinV56:
 Did you buy the WE396A online? If so, where? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

In Ebay, 396A, great deals on NOS Tubes, Vacuum Tubes on eBay!


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@hototay:
 With all due respect, but those are $150/piece bookshelf speaker. The DENON isn't bad either and I would guess that you need a trained ear to hear any kind of difference between different sources in your setup.

 @MartinV56:
 Did you buy the WE396A online? If so, where? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

so i think it's not wise after all to add dac if you have *"cheap"* components in your system.


----------



## moodyrn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a burning question, whats the major difference with the old XS OEM?_

 

This *is* the xs version. It is not a new version but a revised version. The only differences are: 1) one of the analog inputs have been moved from the back to the front, and 2) dip8 sockets have been installed so you can roll opamps. The only other difference I know of is cosmetic(ex. the faceplate). So internally it's the same as the xs(which is the oem) and the grantfidelity one.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so i think it's not wise after all to add dac if you have *"cheap"* components in your system._

 

I'd just say that you should always upgrade the weakest part of your setup - and in your case it's not the source... that's all.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## bballaSR19

I have Logitech Z-2300 speakers, and Ultrasone HFI-780 headphones. Would this product be fine as it is, to use with my speakers and headphones whether it was connected to my PS3 or laptop, or would I also need to buy an amp?


----------



## moodyrn

This should be fine with your headphones, but with those speakers, you might not see a significant increase in sound quality.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bballaSR19* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have Logitech Z-2300 speakers, and Ultrasone HFI-780 headphones. Would this product be fine as it is, to use with my speakers and headphones whether it was connected to my PS3 or laptop, or would I also need to buy an amp?_

 

Z-2300 are powered speakers, so you can't use an amp with it.

 Since you are using computer/PS3 as sound source, the DAC will help you reduce the noise, enhance the clarity of the sound for your speakers for certain degree. However. Z-2300 is a "mutli-media" speaker, you will not see "too much" enhancement.
 It will definitely enhance the SQ of your headphone.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so i think it's not wise after all to add dac if you have *"cheap"* components in your system._

 

Hi Hototay, can you let me know what kind music you test with this DAC? I will suggest you to listen to some Jazz/vocal, it might be easier for you to hear the "difference" by listening to these types music. You may also try to use headphone, it will be much much easier to find the enhancement by using headphone.


----------



## lameduck

<
 <




 <
 <




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 <




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 <








 A few picture for your viewing pleasure. The tube is a the Raytheon version of the 396a, with the windmill getter. The Faltality headset is for gaming only, for $10 AR, its values is hard to beat. 
 One thing I like about the D1 is the flexibility of the connections, notice how I utilized almost all the connections. The tube-out is feeding a Rotel 1070, the normal out is feeding the Dayton ES sub(Dayton subs are amazing values for their price, easily beat Polks, Velodyne, Klips...etc that cost 2-3x as much), USB to PC and Coaxial to the Pioneer DV-48V, 
 And of course lastly the 325is connected in front. Grado cans are those that sound really good out of the box, you dont need expensive gear to drive them, but to get them to the next level you have to spend quite a bit. 

 Cheers


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Hototay, can you let me know what kind music you test with this DAC? I will suggest you to listen to some Jazz/vocal, it might be easier for you to hear the "difference" by listening to these types music. You may also try to use headphone, it will be much much easier to find the enhancement by using headphone._

 

Hi Ryan,
 I listened to Norah Jones, David Murray, Van Morrison, Chesky Records Ultimate Demo Disc, Jesse Cook, Steely Dan, etc.

 btw, Bearman, I bought this DAC primarily to stream my flac files in my Dolby Digital Live-equipped ACER laptop via TOSLINK. As regards to the source you were referring to, I thought I might expect some kind of improvement from this also as this is a $100 only DVD player. We are all aiming towards improving our listening experience, and I thought that the cheapest way to upgrade my set up is by adding an outboard DAC. I thought wrong. Major equipment upgrade is not yet an option as of now. Maybe if I win the lottery.

 I still have my fingers crossed though that in due time, all things will get better.


----------



## CrackBerry9000

For American tubes try the Tung-sol and RCA grey or black plates.


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd just say that you should always upgrade the weakest part of your setup - and in your case it's not the source... that's all.

 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

Dear Bearman, have you had any experience with the DefTech ProMonitor 800 in order to judge them unfairly?


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dear Bearman, have you had any experience with the DefTech ProMonitor 800 in order to judge them unfairly?_

 

No, I haven't had the opportunity to listen to those speakers and no, I didn't judge them unfairly. It's common sense that your speakers and your room have the most influence on the sound quality. Because of that, you should spend the majority of your money for speakers and should take your time to find the best position for them in your room. After that amplification and a proper source don't increase the sound quality very much - as long as both are above a certain level. (no onboard-sound from a PC nor any crappy $50 t-amp from ebay)

 Again I don't say that your monitors are bad, "cheap" or not worth their money! I just say that your DENON player fits well in your current setup and that it's not the weakest part of the chain... 

 IMHO (!) the Maverick is the right thing for you, if you need more connectivity and want to experience the "tube sound" and want a headphone amp. But if you just bought it to significantly (!) improve the sound quality of your speaker system - you won't be satisfied.

 just my 2 cent...

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## hototay

After hours of continuous signal feeding to the DAC, and replacing the tube win a JAN GE 5670 (it is OK to let go of the support wire to the tube, right?), I did finally notice significant improvement in SQ! At least with my laptop as source via toslink , streaming flac files. This is the main reason why I bought this DAC anyway. I cannot convey my enjoyment in words but definitely, no more regrets..I will try it with my DVD player probably in a couple of days and see what will happen. I am now a believer of "burn in". To quote elwappo99 in his post: _"...Let it burn in a good amount of time, it really really improves..."_


----------



## hototay

Ryan, 

 I just have a minor issue with the "direct" button. when I press it to bypass the volume, my left channel speaker sounded garbled and quieter relative to the right. In any case, not really a problem as I can always leave it depress and leave the volume knob at a certain level. 

 Cheers!


----------



## vhaarr

Order placed for the D1 w/ NOS GE 5670W tube 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Can't wait for January when I will get to try it out with my DT880 250ohm set!

 Review and pics will be posted


----------



## Zaluss

Question about the blue light in infront. How bright is it? I tend to listen to my music in a dim setting.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryan, 

 I just have a minor issue with the "direct" button. when I press it to bypass the volume, my left channel speaker sounded garbled and quieter relative to the right. In any case, not really a problem as I can always leave it depress and leave the volume knob at a certain level. 

 Cheers!_

 

Sorry for this issue. I will check to see if it is the component we use to cause this problem.
 In the mean time, if you turn the volume to 3 O'clock position it will equal to "volume disable".


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zaluss* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Question about the blue light in infront. How bright is it? I tend to listen to my music in a dim setting._

 

Shouldn't bother you, Zaluss. I also keep my room rather dim and I don't like it if there's anywhere this annoying green/blue/red glow from a gadget - it's not the case with the Maverick. The blue glow doesn't disturb me while listening at the evening. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## DannagE

Missed the mailman this morning....but had to go and fetch it anyway!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So far I'm very impressed. Listening to Newton Faulkner from the tube pre-out to my speakers sounds very nice. Sound wasn't good when I first put it on, but now the tubes warming up nicely my ears like it. Can't wait for the 'burn-in' time to see how it develops.

 I ordered the one with the GE 5670 tube if you were wondering.

 And the headphone out is very powerful with my DT880's 250ohm 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 don't need the dial up very much at all to make them sing. The sounds better than my x-fi elite pro that I was using for the headphones this week (I've only had the beyers a week and a bit, so they are still being broken in also)

 Would of been nice to have the tubeness on the headphone socket also.


----------



## dak20

Greetings, guys! What it will be better Zero Dac, Dac-01? You to compare it? May be Compass, but Compass is not cheaply!!!!


----------



## ManBeta

Hi! Anybody knows, if the headphone out of D1 will be good for SRH840?


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry for this issue. I will check to see if it is the component we use to cause this problem.
 In the mean time, if you turn the volume to 3 O'clock position it will equal to "volume disable"._

 

Hey Ryan,
 3 o'clock indeed is the level equal to "direct/bypass" mode. It doesn't really bother me but others might. Just an advice.


----------



## bigfatdynamo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dak20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Greetings, guys! What it will be better Zero Dac, Dac-01? You to compare it? May be Compass, but Compass is not cheaply!!!!_

 

I am curious as to some responses to this question. I have been scouring the forum but am having trouble getting a concrete answer. Which works better as a DAC / Headphone amp?


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bigfatdynamo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am curious as to some responses to this question. I have been scouring the forum but am having trouble getting a concrete answer. Which works better as a DAC / Headphone amp?_

 

I've heard some really awful, awful stories about the ZERO DAC reliability (breaking headphones, almost explosive units) and I've heard some great things about the DAC-01. So, I would say, go with the Maverick. It's relatively inexpensive, and simply an upgraded version of the DAC-01. With the great customer service and lovely presentation, I would try it out.


----------



## Remains

Just before pulling the trigger on a zero last night I realized that it lacks an RCA in and I remembered seeing the maverick awhile back on ebay. So after reading all 19 pages of this thread I think I'm going to take my chances and order the D1. I really like how the D1 has so many inputs and FWIR the amp seems to be pretty powerful(more powerful than the zero's?). The only problem I have is that I use denon headphones and I'm worried I'll have to change the amount of gain. Has anybody tried putting a HDAM in the maverick yet?


----------



## Zaluss

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMHO (!) the Maverick is the right thing for you, if you need more connectivity and want to experience the "tube sound" and want a headphone amp. But if you just bought it to significantly (!) improve the sound quality of your speaker system - you won't be satisfied._

 

Are you referring to his Logitech speakers or speaker systems in general?


----------



## hototay

No Zaluss, Bearman is referring to my Def Tech ProMonitor 800. I don't have Logitech speakers.


----------



## Zaluss

Ah alright. Just arrived today! I can't wait to try it out.


----------



## sp70

Supposedly just received mine as well. Gonna be a few days before I can get any sort of review info on this out. I'm told that the package is dented somewhat badly, hopefully no internal damage...


----------



## hototay

Hi Ryan,
 I was just wondering, which SHOULD yield a better sound: connecting a laptop via USB or via "ANALOG IN" using 3.5mm to RCA cable? I haven't tested it myself as I do not have the proper cable available.
 Cheers


----------



## hototay

I'm enjoying this DAC as the days progress. I A/B'd my Philips DVD player and my laptop as source. On Rebecca Pindgeon's Spanish Harlem, I notice the voice of Rebecca through the philips DVD to be somewhat muffled or something like she's miles away from the microphone. However, with my laptop using as a source via Maverick, the vocal is VERY much alive, clear, holographic and the resolution is quite stunning which I never hear from the Philips!


----------



## hototay

hey Zaluss, 
 read your initial impressions on the Maverick on audioholics forum. Can't wait for your full review.


----------



## vhaarr

Maverick Audio Tube Magic D1 *Review* - Audioholics Home Theater Forums is the thread hototay referred to, if anyone else is interested (like I was, so I went searching for it).


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm enjoying this DAC as the days progress. I A/B'd my Philips DVD player and my laptop as source. On Rebecca Pindgeon's Spanish Harlem, I notice the voice of Rebecca through the philips DVD to be somewhat muffled or something like she's miles away from the microphone. However, with my laptop using as a source via Maverick, the vocal is VERY much alive, clear, holographic and the resolution is quite stunning which I never hear from the Philips!_

 

That's the beauty of USB connection --- get the raw digital audio signal without going through the sound card or DVD/CD player's decoder chipset.


----------



## Zaluss

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vhaarr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maverick Audio Tube Magic D1 *Review* - Audioholics Home Theater Forums is the thread hototay referred to, if anyone else is interested (like I was, so I went searching for it)._

 

Thanks guys. Definitely a beautiful unit! I wish it came in silver (all my components are silver) but I think I'll live. Overall I'm very impressed with the sound, features, and aesthetics. One caveat is the blue light IS super bright


----------



## lameduck

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zaluss* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks guys. Definitely a beautiful unit! I wish it came in silver (all my components are silver) but I think I'll live. Overall I'm very impressed with the sound, features, and aesthetics. One caveat is the blue light IS super bright 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Just put a piece of tape on it hehe, Nice Onix Sp3 Zaluss. I plan to switch over to tube gear soon, not sure if the Maverick is up to snub tho. As it is right now I think my Rotel 1070 and B&W dm603 has poor synergy with the D1.
 Oh btw you forgot to put copyright footnote on two pics LOL.

 Cheer and happy listening!


----------



## lameduck

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Ryan,
 I was just wondering, which SHOULD yield a better sound: connecting a laptop via USB or via "ANALOG IN" using 3.5mm to RCA cable? I haven't tested it myself as I do not have the proper cable available.
 Cheers_

 

Well the reason we get the D1 is to use external DAC as suppose to the "inferior" onboard DAC of most consumer devices. So it stand to reason that the USB ports yeild better sound. However I find that that the Coax input yield the best sound, not sure if it's because of the uncompressed signal from CDs or the Coax DAC section is better or just simply placebo effect.

 BTW Ryan, do you recommend any cap replacement in D1, the two wima tube output caps seem kinda wimpy. I'm quite proficient with the soldering iron but without schematic kinda tough to know which to replace


----------



## sp70

Let me just say first off that I do not have much experience reviewing audio gear, so take it easy on me and take the review with however much salt you'd like, anyways - here goes...

 Just out of the box now and hooked up, and I really think it sounds incredible. So much power! More than one would really need i'd think. First up, I tried the headphone out, and it sounded incredible and generally I was extremely pleased. My only complaint is that for now (seeing as it has yet to burn in) the bottom end seemed a bit ah, whats the word, "busy and somewhat lacking definition" is how I would best describe it. From what I hear this will go away with burn in.

 Second, I hooked the tube-out directly to my Hitachi HMA-6500, powering a beautiful pair of JBL 4311b's. The sound was out of this world for me. Quite different sound entirely, and such power! The D1 drove my speakers to more than loud enough levels at just 12 o'clock. When no music was playing it wasn't quite silent, but I wouldn't call that much of an issue, it wasn't bad. Although strangely, I seem to be getting a small amount of intermittent feedback when no music is playing, almost like a very quiet hiss every now and then - possibly a power issue? 

 As I sit here listening to Aja, I can't help but be transfixed by the clarity. Once again forgive me for my lack of audiophile reviewing experience, but a word i'd use to describe it would be agile. 

 Overall, I feel the unit is unbeatable for the price. A solid headphone amp, and a tube amp that was more than I expected. My only complaint at the moment (which I hope will clear up) is the bass which I described above. Besides that, this has been a tremendous improvement in sound, and i'm quite happy with it thus far. In the future, I think i'll replace the tube, and experiment with OPAMPs (soon as I figure out where I can get some without ordering 100...)

 A week or so, once its burned in a bit, i'll post more perspective, I feel like I have a few comments to add about the exterior too...but thats all for now, hopefully this review didn't turn out too bad.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hototay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Ryan,
 I was just wondering, which SHOULD yield a better sound: connecting a laptop via USB or via "ANALOG IN" using 3.5mm to RCA cable? I haven't tested it myself as I do not have the proper cable available.
 Cheers_

 

USB connection without a doubt. The laptop already has a built in amplifier, the USB connection would do all the conversion inside the D1, and then amplify it itself.


----------



## TheBigCW

Sorry for the double post, but I finally pulled the trigger on the D1. :]

 Expect a review as soon as I can do it :]


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lameduck* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well the reason we get the D1 is to use external 
 BTW Ryan, do you recommend any cap replacement in D1, the two wima tube output caps seem kinda wimpy. I'm quite proficient with the soldering iron but without schematic kinda tough to know which to replace_

 

The two wima caps are rated 0.1uF/400V, you can try to replace it with some better caps of 0.1uF/(100V-400V). Don't forget also change the two small caps next the wima cap on the left ( C48, C47), they are rated at 4.7-6.8uF/100V.


----------



## Raez

Anybody that has this care to do a comparison against some of it's rivals? Zhalou, Zero, Compass, Kicas, Musiland MD-10, Pop-Pulse, etc etc etc?


----------



## Remains

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Raez* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anybody that has this care to do a comparison against some of it's rivals? Zhalou, Zero, Compass, Kicas, Musiland MD-10, Pop-Pulse, etc etc etc?_

 

Moodryn has already mentioned a few of those here.


----------



## Raez

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Remains* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Moodryn has already mentioned a few of those here._

 

Aha! Brilliant! Thanks mate, I missed it.


----------



## grokit

It seems very versatile as well as great sounding. Mine will be used to mix sources into a more powerful headphone amp, and to pass those signals through to a home theater receiver, as well as an amp for my more efficient headphones. Also to monitor my Fubar ADC if possible. Supposedly shipping tomorrow, the new version with the American tubes. I have heard the version with the Chinese tubes, and thought it sounded great with lossless files and my ATH-ESW9As. 

 Henceforth to be known as the "missing link" in my sub-system.


----------



## CANiSLAYu

Well, I got my unit today. It actually came Friday, but I wasn't available to sign, so DHL came back today. I'm in Southern California, so like many others, shipped from China Monday, arrived Friday.

 Like sp70 above, I'm no expert when it comes to reviewing audio equipment and sound is so subjective, so I doubt my impressions will be useful anyone experienced, but I am doing this more for the casual audio "enthusiast" (for lack of a better word) such as myself who will probably be considering this unit due to the price.

 First impressions are very good. The unit feels substantial, which I like. No surprises about the physical appearance as the photos are an accurate representation of the unit. I have it plugged into my Mac Pro via USB and am listening on Sennheiser HD595s and Beyerdynamic DT770 80ohms. Source is a mix of MP3s, some lossless, some not (next thing to upgrade). Mainly rock and hip-hop/rap. As mentioned elsewhere in the thread, the amp is very powerful. My headphones are not high impedance by any means, but on the HD595s for example, 9 o' clock position on the volume dial is already about the max I'd consider for extended listening.

 As for the sound quality, this is my first experience with an external DAC. Previously I was using a custom pimeta amp commissioned from MisterX about 5 years ago via analog out on the Mac Pro. I don't recall the full specs of the amp. I've read descriptions on this forum about the "veil being lifted" and I think that's a great description. Think of listening to an AM station versus a FM station. Obviously not to the same degree, but a similar experience as far as an improvement in clarity. Instrument separation is no better or worse than my previous setup. Some initial impressions I've read indicate that the bass starts out disappointing, but from what I'm hearing now it's at least as good as with my previous setup. So overall I'm pleased with the sound and hopefully it's even better after burn-in. It's not night and day difference, but it's definitely discernible.

 Like I mentioned I've had my pimeta amp for 5 years and I hadn't looked around for an upgrade until a couple of weeks ago. What I wanted was (in no particular order):
 1) Single unit desktop DAC/amp
 2) At least two outputs for headphone and powered speakers
 3) Affordable
 4) Good aesthetics
 5) Sound quality

 The Maverick Audio TubeMagic D1 has met all of those qualities admirably with room to spare (more inputs and outputs than I need for my application). I think it's the perfect solution for people like me who want something simple/elegant to get better sound from their computer without busting the budget. I'm upgrading my desktop speakers to Audioengine A2's, so I will be testing those out with the Maverick in a few days as well. The only con if I had to nitpick something, the supplied power cord is a little short. Works fine for my application, but might not be sufficient for some people. Good thing it's your standard computer/monitor power cable and readily available. Very happy with the purchase overall!


----------



## lameduck

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CANiSLAYu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_......

 1) Single unit desktop DAC/amp
 2) At least two outputs for headphone and powered speakers
 3) Affordable
 4) Good aesthetics
 5) Sound quality

 The Maverick Audio TubeMagic D1 has met all of those qualities admirably with room to spare (more inputs and outputs than I need for my application). I think it's the perfect solution for people like me who want something simple/elegant to get better sound from their computer without busting the budget. I'm upgrading my desktop speakers to Audioengine A2's, so I will be testing those out with the Maverick in a few days as well. The only con if I had to nitpick something, the supplied power cord is a little short. Works fine for my application, but might not be sufficient for some people. Good thing it's your standard computer/monitor power cable and readily available. Very happy with the purchase overall!_

 

Well if you gonna choose active monitor I suggest you take a closer look at the M-Audio BX5A and the Swan M200 mkII, both are at the same price range as the audioengine but with superior performance.


----------



## bearmann

*@Ryan:*
 Could it be that the USB receiver only accepts 48/16 streams? Today I (finally) got WASAPI and kernel streaming to work properly in foobar2000. I used the PPHS resampler to resample the audio stream from 44.1/16 to 48/16.
 So am I right that you can't get bit perfect audio output via USB with the Maverick?!


----------



## Raez

Yeah, I'd assume that with coax or optical 24bit could be achieved, since on the website it says 24bit can be done.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*@Ryan:*
 Could it be that the USB receiver only accepts 48/16 streams? Today I (finally) got WASAPI and kernel streaming to work properly in foobar2000. I used the PPHS resampler to resample the audio stream from 44.1/16 to 48/16.
 So am I right that you can't get bit perfect audio output via USB with the Maverick?!_

 

Although the USB sound card will be detected as "16bit USB sound card" in windows, it should be able to accept up to 96Khz/24bit signal and pass it to the DAC chip. What OS did you use?


----------



## Uroboros

Just to add to this particular part of the discussion. I did a similar thing with Foobar2000 but using "resampler (SoX)" . 

 Using Windows7 here.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Although the USB sound card will be detected as "16bit USB sound card" in windows, it should be able to accept up to 96Khz/24bit signal and pass it to the DAC chip. What OS did you use?_

 

Well, if it really supports 24/96 that'd be wonderful. I'll check it later, when I am @home. 
 So it should support 24/96 if I use WASAPI and PPHS resampler with 24/96 in foobar2k?
 I am using Win7 currently.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, if it really supports 24/96 that'd be wonderful. I'll check it later, when I am @home. 
 So it should support 24/96 if I use WASAPI and PPHS resampler with 24/96 in foobar2k?
 I am using Win7 currently.

 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

Technically, it should support 24/96. However, I haven't tried it with foobar2k before. Please let me know your test result.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Technically, it should support 24/96. However, I haven't tried it with foobar2k before. Please let me know your test result._

 

Hi Ryan,
 here is what I tried...

 System: Thinkpad x61s, Windows 7 x64, Maverick D1 via USB, foobar2000 0.9.6.

 WASAPI: only works at 16/48 (PPHS resampler @48khz + 16bit bit depth with dither)
 Kernel Streaming: Doesn't work at all (can't open the device)
 ASIO4all: just like WASAPI, only works at 16/48!
 Direct Sound: Works, because it's always 16/48 at Windows
 24/96 doesn't work at all - regardless of the method used.

 Can somebody confirm that the Maverick D1 is capable of a *bit perfect* output through USB? Can somebody use WASAPI or KS without resampling to 16/48?

 Thanks and best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## sp70

bearmann,

 Just spent about an hour trying to back up your claim. I'm using linux, so i've got to jump through some different hoops, but you would be correct. 

 ALSA claims that the (DAC) hardware is *not capable* of 24/96, only 16/48. This means that through USB input it is *not* able to do 24/96, as far as i've tested and been able to tell. Quite a let down IMO. 
  Code:


```
[left]alsa audio output warning: The rate 96000 Hz is not supported by your hardware. Using 48000 Hz instead.[/left]
```

That was the output from VLC, and other tweaking further suggests its just not possible. I brought it over to my OS X machine to try it, and got the exact same results. Any attempt to play 24/96 files still outputs to 16/48.


----------



## JustVisit

D1 is indeed capable of up to 24bit/96Khz output through USB.
 However, the USB sound card chip we use, only capable of processing up to 16bit /44.1Khz digital music ( the chip only has a 16bit/44.1Khz DAC). However, we don't use the sound card's DAC at all, it is merely used as a "link" to get digital raw signal from PC and pass to the D1's DAC chipset. Therefore, you can use normal music player like media player to play 24bit/96Khz music files, and get the 24bit/96Khz native decoding in the DAC even though windows only recognize the sound card as 16bit /44.1Khz sound card.

 Looks like you guys using SW that directly communicate with sound card chip, which will result 16/48 only. You don't need to do that in order to get 24/96 playback. Any normal media player will do the job just fine.


----------



## devast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like you guys using SW that directly communicate with sound card chip, which will result 16/48 only. You don't need to do that in order to get 24/96 playback. Any normal media player will do the job just fine._

 

Even if the dac is capable of decoding 24/96, the usb interface is limited to 16/44 and 16/48. If the player downsamples, of course it will be able to play it. Use spdif or live with it


----------



## bearmann

That's beside the point, devast.

 My problem is that the Maverick can't accept a 16/44.1 stream via USB! That means no bit perfect audio via USB! The usb receiver only accepts a 16/48 audio stream via USB. That's at least the case in my rig with Windows 7. Would be nice if somebody could say if he/she got bit perfect audio output to work with the Maverick@USB.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## devast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's beside the point, devast.

 My problem is that the Maverick can't accept a 16/44.1 stream via USB!_

 

That's no good. Bitperfect redbook should be a standard feature nowdays.


----------



## DannyBuoy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's beside the point, devast.

 My problem is that the Maverick can't accept a 16/44.1 stream via USB! That means no bit perfect audio via USB! The usb receiver only accepts a 16/48 audio stream via USB. That's at least the case in my rig with Windows 7. Would be nice if somebody could say if he/she got bit perfect audio output to work with the Maverick@USB.

 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

I believe there is a difference of understanding between the hardware and software here.
 To summarize and get right to the point.
 Bearman is using foobar (and perfers WASAPI).
 Ryan is not a user of foobar and uses (tests) with WMP.

 WMP natively uses the DirectShow codec to decode WMA and WAV files at up to 24bit without issue.
 Ryan said the Maverick has a PC facing Soundcard that is limited to 16 Bit although the Maverick does not invoke the DAC side of the chip. It is used as a USB linker to pass the data back to the 24 BIT capable DAC.

 Many codecs such as WASAPI and ASIO4all read the hardware signature of the DAC at the end of the USB cord as being 16 BIT and are unaware of the pass through method (to the 24 Bit DAC) as Ryan mentioned and they set their properties to interface with a 16Bit DAC.


 While WMP uses the Core Audio API's in MFPlay of MS Media Foundation (from Vista on. DShow part of DirectX was abandoned after XP). WASAPI on Foobar uses a lower level API to interface with MFPlay and at this lower level API WASAPI must use functions to interface with the Audio Endpoint (USB end of the DAC) to retrieve info about the audio device, stream, session, etc. through the IAudioClient Interface. In this case ignorance is bliss as far as WMP is concerned becasue it is using the higher level API not the low level API like WASAPI is using. WMP uses MFPlay more in areas of DRM than quality and endpoint info (which gives it "claimed" plays for sure moniker).

 I do not own the maverick "Yet" but if I had it I would set up a test like this:
 I would hook up the Maverick to a fresh Vista or 7 install and play a CD and a WMA from a known DRM compliant source (another issue having to do with header information). I would not have any additional codecs or audio software installed to impede this test. Once foobar and WASAPI or one of the other interfaces are installed they enter registry keys which are shared in the registry at the HkeyLocalUser level. These endpoint entries put into the registry by the lower level API calls of the same Dshow codec of MFPlay would influence WMP from perhaps playing back in 24 Bit mode.
 So if I was able to get 24Bit on my base install, I would then install foobar and see if DShow in foobar sees the USB endpoint as 24 Bit both as a device and the properties of the played audio to compare if it is reading registry entry of what it believes the device is, as opposed to a low level query of device endpoint which may come back as a 16Bit DAC as we already know.

 Based on outcomes of these simple tests, I would then pick from amongst the 20 or so soure code snippets I have for Dshow/MFPlay to test the theories of what I outlined. I have C++ code that I can call to query all of the high and low level API calls and even alter header information to tweak some shortcomings in the new MFPlay library functions which depending on source will revert to 16 Bit without the header modification of the data stream.

 There may be a patch I can make which would basically be a set of registry entries (from a pre foobar WASAPI install) to inform WASAPI on what the audio endpoint is (basically telling it we have a 24 Bit device attached) but I am not sure unless I was able to do some of the tests and tweaks I mentioned before and of course the lack of a Maverick makes it harder still.

 I would be willing to share some snippets of code with another programmer that had access to the Maverick and the time/desire to do what I have outlined (or a better idea they mave have).

 Of course the easiest thing to do from a programmer's perspective is to ask the hardware engineer to expose a 24Bit endpoint at the USB interface and then blow off all the work having to be done in the typical coding/testing/crying software development cycle.

 Anyway, I hope I have contributed some feedback with accuracy, clarity and helpfull suggestions. If not, I aplogize for the lost time I took of you to read this.

 Still wanting to but the Maverick, but need to be sure my setup which is similar to bearman's works as desired...


----------



## TheBigCW

No bit-perfect via USB? That's rather troubling with my ASIO4ALL setup seeing as how I would be using USB...

 Got an email from Ryan this afternoon saying my D1 will be shipping Sunday, so expect initial impressions soon.


----------



## SPACEACE

There's goes a lost sell from me. Bit perfect via usb was ONE of the main selling points. But if usb can't even play 16/44 but only upsampling to 16/48 what a waste. I can give two craps about 24/192 24/96 ect.....a standard cd is 16/44 and that's all I care about but if it can't even play a normal cd hooked up via the usb port. I guess I'll look elsewhere, even cheaper units like the Aune would be better. Also if anyone is interested the Original makers since the MAV is a clone since the XS and Grant are made at the same chinese factory. another story in itself, they at least the XS or doing custom mods, such as dip sockets and they have changed face plates to black as well, for $40 less shipped if anyone is interested??
 I don't care personally but you can save some coin, I think I'll go with the Compass instead. $100 isn't to bad for a better built unit IMO... Just my opinion of corse on all this..


----------



## tosehee

Odd USB implementation for sure


----------



## TheBigCW

Yeah, it's a bit of an annoyance but if I want bit-perfect I can get a 24/96 USB to SPDIF converter...

 EDIT: Definitely points against it in my (forthcoming?) review though...


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[...] I would hook up the Maverick to a fresh Vista or 7 install and play a CD and a WMA from a known DRM compliant source (another issue having to do with header information). I would not have any additional codecs or audio software installed to impede this test. [...]_

 

Thanks for the hint, DannyBuoy. I'll try this next week, when (hopefully) Ryan answered some of my questions regarding the gain of the headphone amp.

 Did I understand you right, that you think, it's a problem of WASAPI by not correctly identifying the USB receiver of the Maverick?! But that wouldn't explain why foobar's kernel streaming and ASIO4All also didn't work, would it?!
 I have had quite a few USB DACs in the past and that would be the first time that a "standard" USB receiver wasn't correctly recognized by the OS. Can't quite believe that that's the problem here...

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe there is a difference of understanding between the hardware and software here...._

 

Hi DannyBuoy, I just sent you a message to see if you can try our unit. Hopefully you can help us find out the real problem..


----------



## elwappo99

I've had my unit for a good amount of time now. Purchased one of the earlier units. Just changed the tube to the 5670, and it makes a huge improvement. Everything is so much softer, and relaxed. I can finally listen with my grados! 

 One major problem I have found is the sound slowly cuts out on one channel for the line outs. This can be only remedied by either blasting up the headphone volume, which sometimes works, or jiggling a 1/4" TRS jack on the headphone jack until both channels kick in. Kind of a hassle. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elwappo99* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've had my unit for a good amount of time now. Purchased one of the earlier units. Just changed the tube to the 5670, and it makes a huge improvement. Everything is so much softer, and relaxed. I can finally listen with my grados! 

 One major problem I have found is the sound slowly cuts out on one channel for the line outs. This can be only remedied by either blasting up the headphone volume, which sometimes works, or jiggling a 1/4" TRS jack on the headphone jack until both channels kick in. Kind of a hassle. Anyone have any ideas?_

 

I think it is probably due to the headphone socket on the front panel. You can plug/unplug your headphone into the socket for a few dozen times, it might solve the issue. If not, you can click here to submit a support ticket and we will fix it for you.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 New D1 unit will not have the same issue as the headphone jack will not "mute" the line-out when headphone is inserted.


----------



## bearmann

Some good news... well, sort of.

 I changed the gain of the headphone amp today. IMHO you don't need to bother trying the headphone amp with sensitive headphones unless you reduce the gain significantly.
 Thanks to Ryan, who provided me with the necessary info.

 In order to reduce the gain of the headphone amp you have to lower the values of R54 and R55. At this moment it should be something between 22K and 30K. I replaced both with 4.7K and now the gain is fine (don't know the exact amount though).
 With my ATH-W100 9 o'clock is "loud enough" for long sessions. 11 o'clock is nice for a couple of tracks... 
 And the headphone amp is "dead silent", very nice!

 I also tried some *opamp rolling* - that's not the Maverick's strength, sadly.
 With the default opamp (LF353N) I have a dc offset of ~30mV. Which is OK.
 First I tried some Analog Devices opamps: AD797 and AD843. Both of which produced significant dc offset (a couple of volts!) and the AD843 oscillated. So don't bother using those in your Maverick!
 Then I tried National's LME49860 and LME49720 (~ LM4562NA). Both produce much more dc offset than the LF353N - around 360mV. I am no expert but that should be OK.

 At this moment I am listening with the LME49860 and I am quite pleased. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## lameduck

Well I've been following the USB dac discussion and a bit surprise that the D1 may not be capable of standard 16/44.1 interface. I will have to investigate into this to confirm. If not I will have to connect from PC to D1 via toslink, a minor annoyance since toslink connection require quality wire or the sonic quality will suffer, but not a biggie really. 

 I'm also looking into rolling the opamp, I'm considering the Burr-Brown OPA627AP. Bearmann or anyone try this opamp yet, please give some input. 

 Also I'm planning to replace two Wima output coupling cap with Gad-Viva or Auricaps and most or all other 10uF caps with Muse(green) caps. Power coupling caps in the D1 are Rubycon so I think they are acceptable. 

 Ryan if you see anything wrong with my plan please let me know.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lameduck* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm also looking into rolling the opamp, I'm considering the Burr-Brown OPA627AP. Bearmann or anyone try this opamp yet, please give some input._

 

don't know if a double OPA627 on a browndog will fit in... seems rather cramped around the opamp socket because of the capacitors.
 I don't have any OPA627 - IMHO it's overpriced and not worth the effort.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## devast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Both produce much more dc offset than the LF353N - around 360mV. I am no expert but that should be OK._

 

That's definetly not OK. If you measure that much at the headphone output, it's gonna kill your phones. Generally under 100mV is ok, but i personally wouldn't risk anything over 50mV.


----------



## Xtreme3X

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some good news... well, sort of.

 I changed the gain of the headphone amp today. IMHO you don't need to bother trying the headphone amp with sensitive headphones unless you reduce the gain significantly.
 Thanks to Ryan, who provided me with the necessary info.

 In order to reduce the gain of the headphone amp you have to lower the values of R54 and R55. At this moment it should be something between 22K and 30K. I replaced both with 4.7K and now the gain is fine (don't know the exact amount though).
 With my ATH-W100 9 o'clock is "loud enough" for long sessions. 11 o'clock is nice for a couple of tracks... 
 And the headphone amp is "dead silent", very nice!

 I also tried some *opamp rolling* - that's not the Maverick's strength, sadly.
 With the default opamp (LF353N) I have a dc offset of ~30mV. Which is OK.
 First I tried some Analog Devices opamps: AD797 and AD843. Both of which produced significant dc offset (a couple of volts!) and the AD843 oscillated. So don't bother using those in your Maverick!
 Then I tried National's LME49860 and LME49720 (~ LM4562NA). Both produce much more dc offset than the LF353N - around 360mV. I am no expert but that should be OK.

 At this moment I am listening with the LME49860 and I am quite pleased. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

Bearmann can i ask which series of AD797 your using? the B series or the A series? Thanks


----------



## lameduck

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some good news... well, sort of.



 I also tried some *opamp rolling* - that's not the Maverick's strength, sadly.
 With the default opamp (LF353N) I have a dc offset of ~30mV. Which is OK.
 First I tried some Analog Devices opamps: AD797 and AD843. Both of which produced significant dc offset (a couple of volts!) and the AD843 oscillated. So don't bother using those in your Maverick!
 Then I tried National's LME49860 and LME49720 (~ LM4562NA). Both produce much more dc offset than the LF353N - around 360mV. I am no expert but that should be OK.
_

 

Strange how you see a jump from 30mV to 360mV as OK. That's my concern too, if different opamp would not play nice with the circuit, not so much the price because if you gonna put the effort into modding the unit might as well use best possible parts that's compatible with the circuit. I think there's a potential that with about $50 in parts and a couple hours of labor the D1 can be improved significantly. While I'm at it I just might replace the Alps with a better one too.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lameduck* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Strange how you see a jump from 30mV to 360mV as OK. That's my concern too, if different opamp would not play nice with the circuit, not so much the price because if you gonna put the effort into modding the unit might as well use best possible parts that's compatible with the circuit. I think there's a potential that with about $50 in parts and a couple hours of labor the D1 can be improved significantly. While I'm at it I just might replace the Alps with a better one too._

 

Well, I don't beleive in "boutique parts". If an opamp oscillates in a circuit it doesn't matter if you used Rubycon caps and vishay dale resistors - the problem is the circuit design and not the selection of parts. That's just my opinion, of course.

 Of course, you can alter the sound by replacing all caps in the audio signal path - but in a good design (except for tubes) there shouldn't be any caps in the audio signal in the first place.

 just my 2 cents. (no intention of starting a war... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## TheBigCW

Shippings been delayed a day or two, so I probably won't be able to comment on the Mav until after Christmas. Oh well. Hope the USB issues can be fixed with a patch of some sort.


----------



## Morkai

Ok, here are my impressions. Bear in mind that I'm new to the audiophile world. I bought sennheiser *hd650* and the maverick. I also own *px100, porta pro, and pl30.*

*hd650* was an enormous improvement, period.
 I can't make a serious difference between *the mav* and my *integrated sound card* (sigma tel audio).

 I tested *hd650* on an old *sony Cdp xe500 cd player* and a *luxman A312 stereo amplifier*.It seemed the sound had more space with them.. but i failled in a blind test. Anyway, I prefer listening through the Luxman.

 The good point for the mav, is that it shields me from the PC noise. But with a high impedance headphone like the hd650 this noise wasn't that big to begin with.

 Conclusion : I will be reasonable. My next buy will be a grado, then a closed headphone like d2000 in order to test different sounds. It's clear for me that the biggest difference you can achieve is by changing your headphones. At least with a low budget. I won't bother with cheap amp/dac and will go straight to something like lavry.


----------



## Remains

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Shippings been delayed a day or two, so I probably won't be able to comment on the Mav until after Christmas. Oh well. Hope the USB issues can be fixed with a patch of some sort._

 

Ah shoot thats disappointing, as I was really hoping to receive my maverick by christmas as well.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Remains* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah shoot thats disappointing, as I was really hoping to receive my maverick by christmas as well._

 

That's not out of the question. Ryan said that shipping was delayed until Wednesday, BUT average shipping time (DHL) from China to the US is two days. So there's a chance it will be there Christmas day. :]


----------



## Remains

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's not out of the question. Ryan said that shipping was delayed until Wednesday, BUT average shipping time (DHL) from China to the US is two days. So there's a chance it will be there Christmas day. :]_

 

It looks like I made it into the production batch before yours. I just received an email saying the maverick has shipped. You can expect my initial impressions later this week.


----------



## TheBigCW

Awesome! Be sure to take photos.


----------



## lameduck

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I don't beleive in "boutique parts". If an opamp oscillates in a circuit it doesn't matter if you used Rubycon caps and vishay dale resistors - the problem is the circuit design and not the selection of parts. That's just my opinion, of course.

 Of course, you can alter the sound by replacing all caps in the audio signal path - but in a good design (except for tubes) there shouldn't be any caps in the audio signal in the first place.

 just my 2 cents. (no intention of starting a war... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)

 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

Most of what you said are true, however the OPA627 is hardly a "boutique part" because it only cost extra $10 compare to the other opamp from the place where I get my electronic supplies. I dont want to replace all the caps, just the tube preamp section because it's the heart of my system right now, I use it to drive a rotel amp which soon will be replaced by an OCM 200. From my limited experience, Wima cap are woeful for output coupling, Auricap or something similar is the minimum, muse cap is widely used on signal coupling and Rubycon are use in the power section. Of course all of these are extra hard because the Maverick did not come with a schematic. Will see how it goes, I will post picture if my D1 explode. 

 BTW to whomever asking for pictures, browse 2,3 pages back there are couple good shots of int/ext of the D1.

 Cheer and happy listening


----------



## grokit

_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lameduck* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
I dont want to replace all the caps, just the tube preamp section because it's the heart of my system right now, I use it to drive a rotel amp which soon will be replaced by an OCM 200. From my limited experience, Wima cap are woeful for output coupling, Auricap or something similar is the minimum, muse cap is widely used on signal coupling and Rubycon are use in the power section. Of course all of these are extra hard because the Maverick did not come with a schematic.

 

_
 Hey if you work this out _lameduck_, you could be the goto-person for D1 mods! 

 I am concerned about integrating the Maverick into my system for preamp switching as well. It has all the right bells and whistles, but component quality and overall QC seem to be a bit worrisome.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Xtreme3X* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bearmann can i ask which series of AD797 your using? the B series or the A series? Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I have the AD797ANZ - A series.
 What are the differences to the B series?!

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## TheBigCW

Well, it's Wednesday over in HK, so the Mav should ship in a couple of hours. I'm pretty excited, looking at getting the Raytheon Windmill Getter 5670 off eBay. Anyone have any experience with them?


----------



## Xtreme3X

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the AD797ANZ - A series.
 What are the differences to the B series?!

 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

I read this review that the AD797B sounds very different from the A series. From the review the B series, is like the combination of A series + OPA627BP.

 Btw you need 2 x AD797ANZ right? Did you use it with the browndog adaptor? Seems like the capacitor are quite near to the DIP-8 Socket, wonders will the browndog adaptor fits?


----------



## u20v00a

After reading the first 20 pages of this thread, I was just getting ready to pull the trigger on a Maverick D1 when I read about the issue with USB... It seemed like the perfect budget solution vs a Compass or a Zero paired with Little Dot I+ that I had been considering. Considering that I planned on using this primarily with my computer via USB to replace the noisy integrated soundcard, this is a big deal... I hope a resolution can be found for this quickly as I'd like to place an order! 

 Also, do you think switchable gain level for the headphone amp are possible in future versions? It'd be preferable in order to pair it with a variety of different headphones, including low impedance ones like the Audio Technica ATH-AD700 that I'm using now. Although I'm sure I could replace the resisters, I'd be concerned about voiding the warranty.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *u20v00a* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After reading the first 20 pages of this thread, I was just getting ready to pull the trigger on a Maverick D1 when I read about the issue with USB... It seemed like the perfect budget solution vs a Compass or a Zero paired with Little Dot I+ that I had been considering. Considering that I planned on using this primarily with my computer via USB to replace the noisy integrated soundcard, this is a big deal... I hope a resolution can be found for this quickly as I'd like to place an order! 

 Also, do you think switchable gain level for the headphone amp are possible in future versions? ._

 

I am working on the USB issue right now. It could take some time for us to find a fix. While it is nice to have "bit perfect" via talking to USB HW directly, I would say the "difference" might be too "small" to notice. Just my 2 cents...I'm sure some people wouldn't agree with that, and I do agree it will be nice to get foobar working.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 No we won't introduce "switchable gain level" in the future version. The current DAC will work with low impedance headphones as long as you turn the volume control between 8 to 9 o'clock. In addition, don't forget you can change the volume on your computer as well. I wouldn't recommend to manually "mod" the gain.


----------



## TheBigCW

I agree. Bit-perfect has never been too big of a difference... but I'm going to get a Musiland Monitor 01 US that supports 24/96 Usb to SPDIF conversion and try it out. I'll still be using "normal" USB most of the time I guess.


----------



## jessel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree. Bit-perfect has never been too big of a difference... but I'm going to get a Musiland Monitor 01 US that supports 24/96 Usb to SPDIF conversion and try it out. I'll still be using "normal" USB most of the time I guess._

 

I'm just doing the inverse way! haha! I own a musiland 01 US and it's fantastic. I'm planing to get a Maverick as a pre-amp and pair it with my Musiland 01 US!


----------



## TheBigCW

From what I've read, wouldn't the DAC in the Maverick be an upgrade from the US? (I'm getting the USD, the usb/spdif)

 EDIT: I'm a bit worried. It's almost Thursday where Ryan is and he said he would ship Wednesday... but I still haven't received an email...


----------



## bigfatdynamo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From what I've read, wouldn't the DAC in the Maverick be an upgrade from the US? (I'm getting the USD, the usb/spdif)

 EDIT: I'm a bit worried. It's almost Thursday where Ryan is and he said he would ship Wednesday... but I still haven't received an email..._

 

I have thought about posting this earlier for you, as you seem anxious, but I didn't want to be 'that guy.' However, as you appear to be getting ancy I thought I would provide a more realistic view on the shipping times. 

 Keep in mind that I am assuming things are backed up because of the holidays and in noway blame Maverick Audio for any delays. The tracking information speaks to this, as it is clear to see where the delays have been.

 Mine was shipped on the 17th, was not processed in China until the 19th, did not arrive for departure until the 21 (Monday), flew out of China on the 22nd, arrived in North America very early on the 23rd, Made it to Canada this morning and is awaiting a flight to the East Coast (Moncton) and then will be driven to Fredericton (assuming). 

 I am hoping it gets on a plane for the East Coast today so it goes out for delivery tomorrow, but I am not holding my breath. This is fine, as I am awaiting an audio cable for my xbox360 anyways 

 If you live in a more central location, I am assuming your wait will be less. If I lived in Ontario or British Columbia, I would probably be receiving the Maverick today.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bigfatdynamo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you live in a more central location, I am assuming your weight will be less. If I lived in Ontario or British Columbia, I would probably be receiving the Maverick today._

 

Sadly not the case :[

 I live in North Carolina, USA... almost as East as you can get.

 EDIT: Yay! It's shipped. I just received an email.


----------



## u20v00a

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree. Bit-perfect has never been too big of a difference... but I'm going to get a Musiland Monitor 01 US that supports 24/96 Usb to SPDIF conversion and try it out. I'll still be using "normal" USB most of the time I guess._

 

I think I'm going to hold off until there is a solution that doesn't involve buying another piece of equipment. The Musiland Monitor 01 US is $86 from coolfungadget on eBay, which adds about 40% to the cost of the Maverick D1, bringing the total cost of both devices to $296. At that price point, I feel like I should just get the Compass, which is a well known device for only a little bit more.

 I know JustVisit said the difference between Bit Perfect and not isn't that much, but I'd like to try for myself, if possible. I'm just hoping for a resolution while Bing cashback to eBay is still 10%!

 JustVisit: Are you going to offer any of the D1s with the NOS GE 5670W on eBay or are you reserving that only for your webpage?


----------



## vhaarr

Recieved mine today while making dinner (pizza!), you can see the fat finger marks on the right side there 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I will definetely play around with this a bit tonight and then write up a review during the weekend!


----------



## DannyBuoy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the hint, DannyBuoy. I'll try this next week, when (hopefully) Ryan answered some of my questions regarding the gain of the headphone amp.

 Did I understand you right, that you think, it's a problem of WASAPI by not correctly identifying the USB receiver of the Maverick?! But that wouldn't explain why foobar's kernel streaming and ASIO4All also didn't work, would it?!
 I have had quite a few USB DACs in the past and that would be the first time that a "standard" USB receiver wasn't correctly recognized by the OS. Can't quite believe that that's the problem here...

 best regards.
 bearmann_

 


 WASAPI/ASIO4All and others use a lower level of communicating with the USB interface then other codecs do (and I am only referring to codecs built to communicate with the MS "DirectX/DirectShow" sub-system).
 Without going through the explanation I did already because it was long winded and did not make the main point I was attempting to emphasize, let me just focus on the detail of the codec/USB interface only:
 WASAPI/ASIO4All are little software programs that make calls from a MS library that makes available a lot of information about the interface, the data stream, the media type, the clock, and on and on. There are hundreds of queries the can be made of the interface and once you decide you are going to handle the low level queries of the interface and media type, you accept the responsibility of selecting the appropriate parameters in your codec (when I saw "you" I mean the developers of the codecs) to adjust to the changing data stream from the interface.
 The other side of the coin is Microsoft's own implementation of the Media Foundation in its native configuration of a virgin install of Windows Vista/7/2008 which uses Windows Media Player and with this basic install WMP is "conversing" with the music file and DAC at a higher level, almost blindly IMO and this is where I was going with all of this.
 MS defines any audio higher than 16 Bit as being High Definition Audio (I know this is an industry fact, but for purposes of focusing on MS this is important) and WMP is querying a high level function of the file to read the header information and if High definition =true then it will attempt to decode with greater than 16Bit resolution (I've exaggerated the simplicity of this in order to demonstrate the process, both WASAPI-low level , and WMP-high level require many other steps in outputting the audio as a data stream but for this example I think it helps illustrate the point).

 That is why I was suggesting a base install on Windows and then put in a high definition source to see what is sent to the D1. My guess is that WMP will send it as a high resolution stream to the D1. If that works, try a CD to see if 16/44.1 works. If it does not then there may be an issue with the USB/DAC in the D1 being set by an external master clock instead of picking up the clock from the USB data packet which is a separate path we can go down to troubleshoot and ultimately make recommendations on how that can be addressed.
 You can also try the fresh Win/WMP install above and after the test, install FooBar but DO NOT install any ASIO codec, instead go to DirectSound and set the output as 16Bit. For a better DirectSound test(DS) install JRiver Media Center (which I also like) and set output to DS and for the DSP Output settings select the "Output Format" checkbox and set BitDepth at 16Bit and Sample Rate at 44.1. Since you can set the DS output settings right in JRiver you can easily see if 16/44.1 is supported. 

 I have ordered a D1 for myself as I think this is the best bang for the buck for my desktop setup and I will be able to run any of the code libraries that I have against it soon and be able to provide much more than theoretical proposals soon.


----------



## krmathis

I am in desperate need of a nice little inexpensive DAC/Amp for the office, to stand between my Lenovo X200 and the K240 Sextett.
 This Tube Magic D1 looks to be close to spot on. I like its black design, its USB and S/PDIF inputs, its headphone and pre-amp outputs, and the price is right. The lack of bit-perfect 16-bit/44.1kHz (CD audio) playback though USB make me hesitate though.

 Fingers crossed that the developers find a solution! Then I am all in.


----------



## TheBigCW

I really, really hope we find a solution to the lack of USB bit-perfect.

 Ryan is such an amazingly nice guy, and I really want his product to do well...

 But the lack of bit-perfect via USB... :[

 It's definitely a problem. But if there are drivers/tweaks that can fix this and make it work with ASIO it will make the already great looking product even better. Until then, maybe a Lilo III or Musiland Monitor 01 US will work fine.


----------



## Remains

I was just graced with the unexpected visit of the DHL man who was here to hand over my maverick! It took only 3 days for the package to make it from Shanghai to Michigan! I've spent 30 minutes listening so far and I'm definitely pleased. Stay tuned for pics and a review in a few days.


----------



## rv5

are those of you purchasing the $219 unit? at this cheap a price and something i was planning on spending a good deal more on for a desktop amp/dac combo an extra $20 really makes no difference to me. i've never owned a tube-anything so i have no idea.


----------



## thearrow

Great... My D1 was ordered on 12/13 and it shipped on 12/24.

 The tracking status currently says the shipment is "On Hold" in Shanghai.

 What does that mean?


----------



## unl3a5h3d

How does this sound with Grados? I have been lurking this thread lately. I am looking for a starter DAC/Amp combo, I will use as both for now and in a month or so get a Little Dot 1+ to go with it as well. I will be mainly using USB for now. And I have been seeing that the USB is not "bit perfect" how much does this affect quality and is the SPDIF "bit perfect"? Thanks.


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The tracking status currently says the shipment is "On Hold" in Shanghai. What does that mean? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It means that the whole container with your D1 is waiting near the docks for a freighter to Yokohama!


----------



## sp70

So whats our final word on OPAMPs? Anyone else try rolling yet? Please post your results. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 @unleashed: The answer to the Grado question would be pretty well, but bright. The D1 might benefit from a more mellow sounding 'phone. It powers the Grados with power to spare, and still retain that powerful Grado sound til very loud listening levels - albeit with the fatigue from aforementioned brightness from the headphone output. I haven't much speculation yet as to how they would sound with the tube preout as i've still got the stock tube. Best wishes.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sp70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So whats our final word on OPAMPs? Anyone else try rolling yet? Please post your results. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

+1 I'm interested in this. Does anybody know if the LT1364 or LM4562 opamps would physically or electrically work in this?
 *EDIT*
 Am I right in saying that a Dual-OPA HDAM would work in this unit? After looking at the pictures carefully it looks like it would fit with the extension leads...

 I'm highly thinking of getting this instead of a Zero, how do you guys think it would hold up in my setup? I would probably use digital out of my X-Fi for gaming and then USB for music/movies.


----------



## grokit

My D1 with the NOS GE 5670W tube finally arrived today; I just hooked it up and could not be any happier with it so far. It feels like a substantial product; no traces of cheap plastic, with a very solid, all-metal feel and tight tolerances. I am actually very surprised with the initial impression of quality as I was kind of expecting a cheap box that hopefully sounded good.

 And it does sound good, right out of the box; it definitely adds a great toslink-based DAC option and more flexibility to my main system. I have the tube stage going out to my HT receiver, and the regular SS pre-out to my dedicated headphone tube amp (Indeed hybrid, waiting for EF5). The DAC is being fed by a cheap 12-foot optical cable with 16-bit 44.1 lossless, and it sounds _very_ good in my system.

 The built-in headphone amplifier section is also better than expected. I was expecting it to be over-driven in the gain department, and it wasn't that hot at all. From what I have read earlier in this thread, I am guessing that Maverick improved the attenuation curve in the D1 somehow by reducing the gain. 

 I found that the volume control of the D1 had a decent curve for both my ESW9As and my K701s, not an easy feat. While my Indeed hybrid sounds a little more powerful, it does not feel this solid and has poor attenuation; I am attributing both characteristics to hopped-up gain. The Maverick also has a smoother, more-rounded sound, even after rolling my NOS tube into the Indeed. Neither the D1 nor the NOS tube in the Indeed are burnt in.

_edit: the rolled-in tube of the Indeed has had about 30 hours on it or so, and has put the Indeed slightly back in front in the headphone amp comparison. But it's $60 tube (doubling the value of the amp), so money well spent. I did not buy the D1 for the headphone amplifier section, it's a bonus and can have tubes rolled into it as well._

 So I am pleasantly surprised with the build quality, and the initial sound quality. The Maverick D1 seems to be a very versatile preamp/DAC/headphone amp, with a switchable tube stage, and mine seems to be very well built with no QC issues. For $219 shipped with the upgraded NOS tube, I was not expecting that much, frankly, and am quite pleased with it.

 This seems to be much more of a "keeper" than a "gimmick" component, overall. I would have still been pleased at a $300 price point, and expect the price of the D1 to either go up or it may help drive the market down. It has quite a few functions and does them all pretty well, and therefore owns its niche, IMO


----------



## rv5

so while i know there's probably not much demand for the d1 vs d10, anyone have any direct comparison results? it's been my only amp for the last year and before that, i was just using a total bithead for a couple years.

 plan on buying a d1 along with some hd600's which i haven't had since i owned a microstack around 5 years ago. any feedback on that too would be appreciated.


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rv5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Plan on buying a D1 along with some HD 600's which I haven't had since I owned a microstack around 5 years ago. Any feedback on that too would be appreciated._

 

The Senneiser HD 600 is the ideal choice for the D1, look at the specifications - 300 ohm, 12 Hz - 39 kHz, uncompromisingly natural sound, crystal-clear with a very high grade of transparency. After all, it is well made for the powerful gain of the circuitry and its output of 1000 mW.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great... My D1 was ordered on 12/13 and it shipped on 12/24.

 The tracking status currently says the shipment is "On Hold" in Shanghai.

 What does that mean? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

This means the package is being held with Shanghai customs. They'll release it in a few days.

 My package is with customs too. :[


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This means the package is being held with Shanghai customs. They'll release it in a few days.

 My package is with customs too. :[_

 

The shipment is on hold due to Christmas, not by customs. Good news is your order has just been processed and it should arrive in the US soil in next 1-2 days


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The shipment is on hold due to Christmas, not by customs. Good news is your order has just been processed and it should arrive in the US soil in next 1-2 days 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Huh. I guess not then?

 That's just what DHL said when I called them.

 But yes, everything has cleared now and the D1 is on a flight from Shanghai to Greensboro. Excitement abounds!


----------



## thearrow

Good news!

 Mine is on the move, also.


----------



## _Spanky_

I just took the plunge. Can't wait for it


----------



## SilverBlade

Just have a question about the Maveric DAC..

 Does the volume knob alter the volume going out to the *speakers*? or only to the headphone connection?


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SilverBlade* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just have a question about the Maveric DAC..

 Does the volume knob alter the volume going out to the *speakers*? or only to the headphone connection?_

 

There are two scenarios -

 If the "Direct" button on the front panel is not pressed, the volume knob will alter the volume both to the headphone and speakers.

 If the "Direct" button is pressed, then the volume knob will only affect the sound to the headphone connection.


----------



## rv5

are there any other upgrade tubes that will make a real notable difference besides the 5670W? i know nothing about tubes, but with how cheap the D1 is i'd be willing to spend another $40-$50 on a nice one.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rv5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_are there any other upgrade tubes that will make a real notable difference besides the 5670W? i know nothing about tubes, but with how cheap the D1 is i'd be willing to spend another $40-$50 on a nice one._

 

I know the tube I'm probably going to buy is the Raytheon 5670 Windmill Getter. I may buy this today (I have an auction for sale, and I'm either buying the windmill getter, or the USB to SPDIF device to allow bit-perfect, depending on how much money it goes for)


----------



## thearrow

What's the best place to buy a Raytheon 5670 Windmill Getter?

 I found a Buy-It-Now auction on Ebay $38 shipped for a pair.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What's the best place to buy a Raytheon 5670 Windmill Getter?

 I found a Buy-It-Now auction on Ebay $38 shipped for a pair._

 

That's where I'm buying mine. It's supposed to be a great tube. I'm also picking up the GE JAN 5670W for $8 on eBay.


----------



## p3ga

Well, count me in too, I just pulled the trigger and ordered via Ryan's site. Splurged for the tube upgrade too.

 Took care of everyone else this Christmas, figured I earned it. 

 Thanks for everyone's ongoing insights, it made this purchase pretty close to a slam dunk no-brainer.

 Have a very Happy New Year!


----------



## jonhapimp

Looks like this might be my first amp/DAC just got to save up for it and buy a few other things


----------



## TheBigCW

My Maverick is officially in the mainland US! When it arrives, expect pics/impressions. :]


----------



## _Spanky_

Woot! That's one thing I've been wanting to see: some great high-detail pictures of the inside and around the unit 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Can't wait to hear your impressions as I patiently wait for mine.


----------



## 1llest

Im all new to this and been looking for a nice DAC/preamp. Will this benefit the Audioengine A5?


----------



## grokit

First sign of trouble. I just ripped a lossless copy of "Lay it Down" and through the tube pre out I get clipping or popping or static through my speakers at higher volume levels; no problem through the headphones, which use the SS out. This happens if the direct button is engaged or not, and I've never heard my speakers behave like this before.

 And so it begins 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




?


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *grokit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just ripped a lossless copy of "Lay it Down" and through the tube pre out I get clipping or popping or static through my speakers at higher volume levels; no problem through the headphones, which use the SS out. This happens if the direct button is engaged or not, and I've never heard my speakers behave like this before._

 

Maybe it is something wrong with the tube, try another 5670, otherwise you may have warranty. In this case contact Maverick for a replacement of the PCB.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *grokit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_First sign of trouble. I just ripped a lossless copy of "Lay it Down" and through the tube pre out I get clipping or popping or static through my speakers at higher volume levels; no problem through the headphones, which use the SS out. This happens if the direct button is engaged or not, and I've never heard my speakers behave like this before.

 And so it begins 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




?_

 

Is it only with _*that*_ copy? If so, then it's probably the rip. If not, then it might be a problem with the tube. What's your source? It could be a problem with your speakers. Do you hear the clipping on any other song? Does the same thing happen when you don't use the tube out?


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it only with *that* copy? If so, then it's probably the rip. If not, then it might be a problem with the tube. What's your source? It could be a problem with your speakers. Do you hear the clipping on any other song? Does the same thing happen when you don't use the tube out?_

 

That's the suggestion I will give as well. Also, a side note, tube need some time to "warm up" to get in to working mode. If you just turn on the DAC, wait a few minutes before you use the tube pre out stage.

 You can also submit a ticket for our support.


----------



## thearrow

Just got my D1 handed to me by the DHL man!

 Shipping was pretty quick once it got past the customs/Christmas delay, considering it left China yesterday. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Too bad to hear about the clipping issues. I'll test mine out once it gets up to room temp.

 I could take a bunch of pictures later if anyone is interested.


----------



## u20v00a

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got my D1 handed to me by the DHL man!

 Shipping was pretty quick once it got past the customs/Christmas delay, considering it left China yesterday. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Too bad to hear about the clipping issues. I'll test mine out once it gets up to room temp.

 I could take a bunch of pictures later if anyone is interested._

 


 Pictures and impressions are always of interest!


----------



## thearrow

Warmed everything up, plugged everything in. Came as described. Solid construction, good looks.

 PC (WINAMP+ASIO4ALL) -> OPTICAL -> D1 -> TUBE-OUT -> RCA-to-1/8" -> Senn HD280 Pro

 First I tried the headphone amp, and with my dinky 64 ohm 280s I just picked up a lot of noise and couldn't move the volume dial past the 2nd click without blowing my head off.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So I plugged them into the tube out, now they're dead silent (no noise), have the warm tubey sound, and can push around 9 o'clock on the volume dial.

 I'll refrain from commenting on the sound too much as I only have my onboard audio and HD280s to compare to. That said, I'm very happy so far. No more motherboard noise to deal with, I'm getting much better low-end out of my HD280s, and everything seems crisper.

 Next step is upgraded phones! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Pictures in a bit...


----------



## TheBigCW

The DHL man visited me today. He delivered... a Maverick D1.











 Full hi-res images, including many internal shots available at my Imageshack album.

ImageShack - Maverick Audio D1 Pictures

 Initial impressions are extremely positive. I'm loving this thing.


----------



## thearrow

Adding to the photo madness...

 (Yes, I got the regular chinese tube with plans of upgrading later.)


----------



## TheBigCW

By the by, my Raytheon windmill getter & GE 5670 are in the mail. :]


----------



## SPACEACE

Thanks for the great pictures. I don't post often or ever really, but have been a lurker here for many a year.
 I'll say this. Whoever designed the case for the Maverick should be giving a big thumbs up. A VERY nice Case. BUT!!! My oh my they must have chimps working on the internals. Man it's a mess. Not trying to bash or anything but if you look at Arrows 5th pic or so on the close ups. The resisters, caps ect are all out of line, some are even some are totally WAY off. Not to mention the horrible solder job on some of the parts.
 I know the owner/manager, what's his name? Said these are hand built, But wowzers these are hole thru boards, very simple to work on as far as solder work.
 Don't get me wrong I'm sure it's a sweat sounding unit. Looks good as well!!! I'm not so sure about the parts holding up in the long run tho??? I mean it is only $200 or so but still. How about a kit maybe??? Would something like that be workable? 
 I rather do the internals myself then to have something that looks like cheap 12 year old chinese laborers built it. Again not bashing just and observation on the build quality.. If you look at the XS or Grant boards which are VERY close you can see the build quality is MUCH better and rumor has these come from the same factory... New workers or what??? Just my 2 cents... I'll still buy one as soon as bit perfect gets fixed via usb, the internals I can redo myself


----------



## DannagE

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SPACEACE* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the great pictures. I don't post often or ever really, but have been a lurker here for many a year.
 I'll say this. Whoever designed the case for the Maverick should be giving a big thumbs up. A VERY nice Case. BUT!!! My oh my they must have chimps working on the internals. Man it's a mess. Not trying to bash or anything but if you look at Arrows 5th pic or so on the close ups. The resisters, caps ect are all out of line, some are even some are totally WAY off. Not to mention the horrible solder job on some of the parts.
 I know the owner/manager, what's his name? Said these are hand built, But wowzers these are hole thru boards, very simple to work on as far as solder work.
 Don't get me wrong I'm sure it's a sweat sounding unit. Looks good as well!!! I'm not so sure about the parts holding up in the long run tho??? I mean it is only $200 or so but still. How about a kit maybe??? Would something like that be workable? 
 I rather do the internals myself then to have something that looks like cheap 12 year old chinese laborers built it. Again not bashing just and observation on the build quality.. If you look at the XS or Grant boards which are VERY close you can see the build quality is MUCH better and rumor has these come from the same factory... New workers or what??? Just my 2 cents... I'll still buy one as soon as bit perfect gets fixed via usb, the internals I can redo myself 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Leave the cover on and you won't know the resistors aren't 100% lined up?


----------



## viodea

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SPACEACE* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you look at the XS or Grant boards which are VERY close you can see the build quality is MUCH better and rumor has these come from the same factory... New workers or what??? Just my 2 cents... I'll still buy one as soon as bit perfect gets fixed via usb, the internals I can redo myself 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

From what I've read, they are not from the factory anymore. Grant made a deal with the manufactory to be the exclusive distributor in the US. So, I doubt the Mav is from that factory. Most likely, Mav found another manufactory in China to produce it. Also, looks like there are a few minor changes compare to the Grant / XS.


----------



## TheBigCW

Hey SPACEACE, did you look at the internals on my ImageShack album that I posted? If so, are they equally messy?

 Maybe it was just a factory screwup?


----------



## thearrow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[...]are they equally messy?_

 

Looks a little bit better than mine.

 Doesn't bother me though - good sound is my highest priority, and if I don't knock it around I shouldn't have any issues.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannagE* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Leave the cover on and you won't know the resistors aren't 100% lined up? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's my strategy.


----------



## moodyrn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *viodea* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From what I've read, they are not from the factory anymore. Grant made a deal with the manufactory to be the exclusive distributor in the US. So, I doubt the Mav is from that factory. Most likely, Mav found another manufactory in China to produce it. Also, looks like there are a few minor changes compare to the Grant / XS._

 


 I'm inclined to agree. The internals looks like the same design as my xs version, but the build quality of my xs version looks much better than the one from the pics of the mav I just saw. Another reason why I went with the version from the oem.


----------



## ELP FAN

I've had my *Maverick Audio 'D1' *now since a week before Christmas, i'm extremely happy with it, it was bought mostly as an headphone unit, this is where a very slight drawback lies.

 When the unit is lying idle i can hear a very distant hum at volume down, as i increase the volume upto say 9 o'clock the slight hiss then over rides the hum, does anyone else experience this & maybe know the cause..Maybe the mains transformer or the cheap potentiometer?

 Also i've tried getting a Schematic from Maverick as i'm intrested in trying a few alterations out but got no reply from them, anyone know where i can obtain a drawing please?


----------



## moodyrn

I don't have any hum with my xs version. I can also confirm that I get bit perfect using usb as well. It's definitely an improvement using asio4all using usb vs direct sound using usb. It wouldn't have been an issue for me anyway because I use coaxial out from my motherboard. I hope you get it worked out.


----------



## TheBigCW

I have no hum on my box.

 And yes, mine does resample to 48khz. It's not a big deal to me, though.


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it only with *that* copy? If so, then it's probably the rip. If not, then it might be a problem with the tube. What's your source? It could be a problem with your speakers. Do you hear the clipping on any other song? Does the same thing happen when you don't use the tube out?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's the suggestion I will give as well. Also, a side note, tube need some time to "warm up" to get in to working mode. If you just turn on the DAC, wait a few minutes before you use the tube pre out stage.

 You can also submit a ticket for our support._

 

Thanks for the great suggestions. I think it's a combination of things. I do not think the unit is defective, or the tube is bad at this point. I would also be very surprised if a new rip with the same settings changed anything, but I have an older Pioneer DVD-ROM that has better compatibility with certain older CD's that could prove me wrong.

 I think that the tube pre-out runs hot; I'm pretty sure that I read, maybe somewhere in this thread, that the tube pre-out on the D1 has 20% more output power than the SS side with the "direct" button engaged. It is therefore variable when you want it to be for that reason. Even though I had already tried it both ways, I decided after reading this about the NuForce uDAC to give the volume pot another shot.

 When I powered up from scratch, I went with the "direct" button disengaged and used the volume control. I was able to re-set the volume on the D1 and my receiver differently where there was not so much gain from the D1 and everything was fine with the same relative room volume, or even higher (I could not get the speakers to clip this way). I do not like this method so much, as I have a "pet peeve" against redundant volume controls 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Then I ran it "direct" once more, and it clipped again. I compared the sound with my Fubar I/O, since they were already both hooked up to the receiver. The Fubar I/O has more resolution in the low end; easy to tell with this recording. This is not a fair comparison for a few reasons: 
 1) the Fubar has the optional "Supplier" PSU, that could account for the difference right there; 
 2) I am not going through the tube, or the Maverick at all, with the Fubar; 
 3) the tube on the D1 is still burning in, and will resolve more fully soon.

 The Fubar is also on a fixed, non-variable line in (inline with my phono stage), and did not clip at high volume with the same ripped recording; I imagine the devilsound would distort my speakers with this bass (through no fault of its own) though, as this is a very good recording for reference bass. That is why I don't have the devilsound DAC anymore btw, it exposed too many limits in my "live" system! Very HQ, very forward. Probably get another one someday though as it was _very_ nice.

 Anyways, back to the Maverick D1; it's warmed up now and the bass is better, but still not quite a defined as the Fubar's; different. I would say that the Fubar is more neutral, and tighter, as a DAC. But it could be the tube. If I keep the volume knob at halfway when in "volume control" mode, and let it warm up, no problemo, I love the D1 again, and I guess I can live with the redundant volume controls this time. At least the system volume on my Mac Pro is disabled, though I think it always is with it's separate optical out 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I haven't tried the D1 into my receiver with the SS out because while my receiver is a very good one for the money, the nine discrete amps are 100% digital; they need the tube flavor. Also, the SS outs are going into a better tubed headphone amp (HiFiMAN EF-5), so that's the way it has to be 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Having said that, the headphone amp on the D1 is surprisingly good, and will drive all but the pickiest of cans, IMHO 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So I promise that I will re-rip (someday) and try switching inputs (in the future), but I am satified again. For now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am trying to clarify a few things, that I think I know, "for sure" though:
 1) the headphone jack on the D1 is always SS, never tube;
 2) the direct button bypasses the volume control for both inputs, but the headphone out is always controlled by the volume knob;
 3) I can to roll in a 6922 type of tube that I already have on order to try in something else, into my D1 to see how it sounds. It's a "PCC88 Philips A frame" I got for an Indeed Hybrid.

 Pretty sure 1 & 2 above are right and 3) is _*totally*_ wrong, please correct me if necessary 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




!

*EDIT*: It looks like I can try my tube?:
_"The WE396A is an incredible tube. Originally used by ATT for telephone amplifiers, it sounds rich, dynamic and detailed. It has low noise and low microphonics. It can sound better than any 6922 or 7308 in the right preamp application. Perfect for the Shandling CD Player It has the same pinout as the 2C51 or 5670, but is the best of breed. In original Western Electric boxes!"_


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SPACEACE* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the great pictures. I don't post often or ever really, but have been a lurker here for many a year.
 I'll say this. Whoever designed the case for the Maverick should be giving a big thumbs up. A VERY nice Case. BUT!!! My oh my they must have chimps working on the internals..._

 

That's what happened you have a good close up macro mode shots on a hand soldering PCB board without photoshop 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The PCB board looks just fine from your eye, but the detail shots reveal every single detail.

 It is not a PCB board made by SMT machine, it doesn't use surface mount components, they are far too big for the machine. Every single components on this board are soldering by hand. The PCB board are made by professional workers, however, imagine you have to finish a dozen boards every day. I can spend a few days on soldering a single PCB board to make sure everything is perfect, but I am a hobbyist, not a factory worker. They just don't have the time to put the components in a nice presentation. The PCB board will work just fine


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've had my *Maverick Audio 'D1' *now since a week before Christmas, i'm extremely happy with it, it was bought mostly as an headphone unit, this is where a very slight drawback lies.

 When the unit is lying idle i can hear a very distant hum at volume down, as i increase the volume upto say 9 o'clock the slight hiss then over rides the hum, does anyone else experience this & maybe know the cause..Maybe the mains transformer or the cheap potentiometer?_

 

Disconnect all the cables to D1. Find a standalone wall power outlet, connect the D1, and then connect your headphone. Try that to see if there is any "hum" sound. This step is to make sure the if hum sound is from the D1, or some where else. Since there are many things which can cause the "hum" sound.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *grokit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am trying to clarify a few things, that I think I know, "for sure" though:
 1) the headphone jack on the D1 is always SS, never tube;
 2) the direct button bypasses the volume control for both inputs, but the headphone out is always controlled by the volume knob;
 3) I can to roll in a 6922 type of tube that I already have on order to try in something else, into my D1 to see how it sounds. It's a "PCC88 Philips A frame" I got for an Indeed Hybrid.

 Pretty sure 1 & 2 above are right and 3) is *totally* wrong, please correct me if necessary 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




!_

 

The only tube you can try is 5670 tube. 6922/6DJ8 tube doesn't work with D1.


----------



## thearrow

I've encountered some puzzling behavior in the headphone amp of my maverick.

 Firstly, I tried disconnecting everything and plugging it in to a separate power outlet, the hum is still there. The hum is the worst when the volume dial is all the way down, as I turn the volume up the hum diminishes and reveals noise.

 Secondly, whenever I try to listen to music through the headphone amp, not only is there that hum, but only the left channel is audible. If I turn the volume all the way down, the right channel only is faintly audible.

 Tested, working fine on the tube out with the same setup and same recordings.

 What gives?


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've encountered some puzzling behavior in the headphone amp of my maverick..._

 

Two questions:
 - Do you notice the same problem when you try your HD280 with the DAC for the first time?

 - Please try the normal audio output to see if there is any problem. Headphone amp section is part of the solid state out. If normal audio output is working okay, then it looks very much like a "loose cable" issue...

 Let me know and I will help you further on trouble shooting.
 I will recommend you to open a support ticket with us, in that way, we will not waste space here on trouble shooting.


----------



## thearrow

Thanks for the quick reply.

 I guess I should have mentioned those two things in my first post. The first time I tried the headphone amp it was fine, except for the hum. The solid state out on the back still works just fine.

 Sounds like a loose cable issue, then. I'll double check to make sure I didn't bump anything when I took it apart.

 Is there anything I can do to get rid of this hum?

 If it's not a simple fix I'll open a ticket.


 EDIT: Pretty spooky... I took it apart, everything looked fine, I just checked all of the cable connections.... Now I have sound in both channels. 

 Still that annoying hum, though....

 Also, the gain is soooo high on the headphone amp. Will higher impedance, harder-to-drive phones like the HD600s cooperate better with this amp?


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the quick reply.
 EDIT: Pretty spooky... I took it apart, everything looked fine, I just checked all of the cable connections.... Now I have sound in both channels. 
 Still that annoying hum, though....
 Also, the gain is soooo high on the headphone amp. Will higher impedance, harder-to-drive phones like the HD600s cooperate better with this amp? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

-I suspect one of the cables connect to headphone output is moved either during transportation or when you close the case of the amp. Glad to know it is good now.
 -I will get some suggestions on the "hum" sound from the engineer. It will take some time since now is New Year holiday. Technically, there shouldn't be hum sound since the amp stage is shutdown when there is no audio signal feed. I still suspect it has something to do with the power or grounding.

 -higher impedance headphone will definitely work better with this amp.


----------



## TheBigCW

If you're getting a hum it's almost definitely because of the fact you're using very sensitive phones with a very high gain amplifier.


----------



## thearrow

So you've tried your k601s (120 ohm?) out of the headphone amp and don't get any hum?


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Technically, there shouldn't be hum sound since the amp stage is shutdown when there is no audio signal feed. I still suspect it has something to do with the power or grounding._

 

You are right, in the most cases is a broken shielding of the signal cables the only reason. With the sensitivity of the HP's or the output gain has it nothing to do. It seems the problem could be easily solved in the same way!


----------



## thearrow

Would there be some way to easily replace a few wires that run to the headphone amp with shielded ones?

 I'm anxious to hear what the engineer has to say about it.

 I'd still want to upgrade my phones, though. Anyone have any suggestions that would pair well with the super-high-gain headphone amp on the mav?

 EDIT: Also, BigCW, I'm curious as to how you'll like the windmill getters, so when you roll one in please let me know what you think of it.


----------



## _Spanky_

I just gotta say that it's awesome how JustVisit (Ryan) is on this site helping everyone and coming up with suggestions to everyone that has an issue. It means a lot for the owner of a company to do that, no matter how large or small that company is. You don't see this with the Zero even after 2 major threads and tons of people complaining yet nobody from the company has registered here. Ryan, your support is extremely re-assuring for customers, I know it is for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks.


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would there be some way to easily replace a few wires that run to the headphone amp with shielded ones?

 I'd still want to upgrade my phones, though. Anyone have any suggestions that would pair well with the super-high-gain headphone amp on the mav?_

 

I talk about the shielding inside of your amplifier. Shielding is in nearby every amplifier necessary by multiple contacts to the ground. Therefore I assume a bad connection somewhere in the signal path by a loose cable or a soldered connection.

 I recommend *beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro* (250 ohm), or *SENNHEISER HD 600* (300 ohm) both are a very good choice for the money.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you've tried your k601s (120 ohm?) out of the headphone amp and don't get any hum?_

 

Yeah, no hum with my K601s, and they're notoriously amp-dependent (extremely inefficient, even less so than the K701s).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_EDIT: Also, BigCW, I'm curious as to how you'll like the windmill getters, so when you roll one in please let me know what you think of it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'll definitely include it in my review. :]


----------



## TC44

I'm interested in using one of these to replace my current Adcom GTP 500 preamplifier. I've read through the 28 pages and didn't see very much on how this performs as a preamp. I have a pair of Beyer DT880 and the D1 sounds like a good match, but I'll also be looking to replace the Adcom preamp. Anyone use this in place of their preamplifier? What do you think?
 Thanks!


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TC44* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm interested in using one of these to replace my current Adcom GTP 500 preamplifier. I've read through the 28 pages and didn't see very much on how this performs as a preamp. I have a pair of Beyer DT880 and the D1 sounds like a good match, but I'll also be looking to replace the Adcom preamp. Anyone use this in place of their preamplifier? What do you think?
 Thanks!_

 

It's a great Pre-amp but i recon most are using it as headphone amp. I think i prefer the S/S pre-output to the tube pre-output, i've not got my NOS GE5670 tube yet which i'm sure wil be an improvement over the one fitted.

 Apart from the trace of hum i'm experiencing, which i'm sure is something silly like a wire, i'm well happy..One thing id do think needs addressing is the black brush anodised facia, it's too shiney (gives a patchy cheap effect) in needs to be more matt it will look very high end & more expensive looking to boot. It's a great thing & i will be buying another one or two if a more matt finish is employed as i want it with my hi-fi but not prepared to do with the shiney finish, so this one stuck on my computer.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One thing id do think needs addressing is the black brush anodised facia, it's too shiney (gives a patchy cheap effect) in needs to be more matt it will look very high end & more expensive looking to boot. It's a great thing & i will be buying another one or two if a more matt finish is employed as i want it with my hi-fi but not prepared to do with the shiney finish, so this one stuck on my computer._

 

There is a thin layer of wax on the surface of the unit, it will go away by time. If you don't like the "shiny" finish, you can use a dry soft cloth to wipe the wax off.


----------



## sp70

Some of the lettering on my unit is actually starting to scrape away from simple everyday use. Its not enough to bother, but it does give the impression that its a bit more cheap looking. I treat my gear very nicely, and its disappointing that the lettering paint is starting to rub off considering its age.


----------



## hasanyuceer

Anyone knows if i can use this as a pre-amp for EF2? 

 If yes, is it powerful to drive DT880 properly with EF2?

 Also i want to ask how the quality of dac is? Can you compare Zero or Musiland or uDac or something else?


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TC44* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm interested in using one of these to replace my current Adcom GTP 500 preamplifier. I've read through the 28 pages and didn't see very much on how this performs as a preamp. I have a pair of Beyer DT880 and the D1 sounds like a good match, but I'll also be looking to replace the Adcom preamp. Anyone use this in place of their preamplifier? What do you think?
 Thanks!_

 

I am using the D1 mainly as a preamp, and I have to say mine is dead quiet and the upgraded tube is cleaning up nicely in the bass department as it breaks in. It may run a little hot in direct mode on the tube pre out, so with some amps you need to take it out of direct mode and go to 2-3 o'clock to attenuate the gain. 

 I think the tube out on the D1 is starting to really add some character to my speaker setup, and am very happy with it as a preamp. The only thing that I would look into in the future would be a tube preheat circuit, as it takes a bit to get going and can clip in direct mode on some amp/speaker combos. But the direct mode _is_ defeatable 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 To my ears the headphone out of the D1 is like your basic low-end Chinese hybrid tube, has the hopped-up gain that sounds good with the right low-impedance/efficiency cans but a bit harsh with others. I think the K601s sound the best so far out of the D1; the HD600s were instantly fatiguing but not as painful as with the above-mentioned low-end Chinese hybrid tube. The D1 is definitely smoother than the "rolled" Indeed. I am curious as well about how the HD650's would sound, and will have mine back soon
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I will be using the SS pre out with a better tube headphone amp/separate PSU soon in a bit of "reverse synergy"; it will be an interesting diversion to compare/rank other DACs with the D1's, and compare the USB to the optical input I am using now on the D1 itself.


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you've tried your k601s (120 ohm?) out of the headphone amp and don't get any hum?_

 

No hum here, I think the K601s work very well with the D1.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sp70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Some of the lettering on my unit is actually starting to scrape away from simple everyday use. Its not enough to bother, but it does give the impression that its a bit more cheap looking. I treat my gear very nicely, and its disappointing that the lettering paint is starting to rub off considering its age._

 

I'm sorry to hear about this issue. The painting factory has trouble with one batch of our front panel, the painting is not "hard" enough due to extreme cold weather. I think your unit might be among that batch production, since then we've fixed this issue.


----------



## brod

Can someone post the physical dimensions of this unit please.

 If anyone has used it with Beyerdynamic DT 770 Premium 250ohm, impressions would be much appreciated


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone post the physical dimensions of this unit please._

 

The hardware specifics of the D1 are to find on the *Maverick Audio* homepage.


----------



## brod

Thanks AcousticDreams.


----------



## thearrow

On a whim today, I decided to test my D1 headphone amp with some Sony MDR-V150s I had laying around. Weirdly, even though they're even lower impedance than my HD280s, the hum was just barely audible, and the gain was acceptable on the first few notches.

 Why is this, because they have a lower sensitivity (98db/mW vs 102db/mW) than my Senns?

 .....But then the K601s which are notoriously hard to drive are still 101db/mW? Is this balanced out by their larger impedance?


----------



## djnagle

Well, I just pulled the trigger on this. I don't not post here much but lurk often. I just set up a music server and have been looking for a USB DAC.....which I can't afford right now. However, I saw the D1 and read through all this thread and then realized that with the D1, I don't need my passive pre-amp, so that is now going on the bay to pay for the D1. I have been using the stock soundcard in my server and it really sucks. the music is lifeless, flat, undetailed, and muddy sounding. I am hoping that using the D1 (USB out from the server) will change that. I order it with the tube.

 Thanks to all for the great information in this thread!!!


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Weirdly, even though they're even lower impedance than my HD280s, the hum was just barely audible, and the gain was acceptable on the first few notches. Why is this, because they have a lower sensitivity (98db/mW vs 102db/mW) than my Senns?
 .....But then the K601s which are notoriously hard to drive are still 101db/mW? Is this balanced out by their larger impedance? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Good question, the sensitivity has on the first hand nothing to do with the impedance, it depends to the type of transducer and the used dimensions. You can find low impedance HP's of higher sensitivity and high impedance HP's of lower sensitivity, or vice versa. If it works well for you, has always to do with the interaction of the remaining system.

 @ brod
 Nothing to thank for!


----------



## TheBigCW

My tubes will be in the mail tomorrow. Exciting!


----------



## TC44

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *grokit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am using the D1 mainly as a preamp, and I have to say mine is dead quiet and the upgraded tube is cleaning up nicely in the bass department as it breaks in. It may run a little hot in direct mode on the tube pre out, so with some amps you need to take it out of direct mode and go to 2-3 o'clock to attenuate the gain. 

 I think the tube out on the D1 is starting to really add some character to my speaker setup, and am very happy with it as a preamp. The only thing that I would look into in the future would be a tube preheat circuit, as it takes a bit to get going and can clip in direct mode on some amp/speaker combos. But the direct mode is defeatable 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Grokit, thanks for the reply. Sounds like you're using the D1 more as a DAC than a DAC/Pre-amp. I say that because you mention direct mode or attenuating the signal. Are you connecting the D1 into a HT receiver or integrated amplifier? I would like to connect the D1 directly into a power amp and use the D1 volume control to regulate the output. 

 Things I'm worried about are
 1. Power output directly into the amp. Does it have enough gain?
 2. Noise level?

 Is anyone here using the D1 directly into a power amplifier?


----------



## _Spanky_

Heads up! I just noticed that the pre-order price will end on January 2nd! Get your orders in 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's also $10 cheaper on the Maverick Audio site than on eBay.


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Heads up! I just noticed that the pre-order price will end on January 2nd! Get your orders in 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's also $10 cheaper on the Maverick Audio site than on eBay._

 

That is His-acly why I ordered mine today.


----------



## djnagle

Ryan, is there any way to add a remote control to the D1? I will be using it for a pre/DAC and it would be very convinient to be able to control volume from my LB.


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AcousticDreams* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good question, the sensitivity has on the first hand nothing to do with the impedance, it depends to the type of transducer and the used dimensions. You can find low impedance HP's of higher sensitivity and high impedance HP's of lower sensitivity, or vice versa. If it works well for you, has always to do with the interaction of the remaining system. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm going to thank you anyways, that's the simplest definition I have read yet on the mystery of headphone "synergy" with a given amplifier, based upon the impedance and sensitivity of the headphone. Sometimes getting a headphone loud low on the knob gives painful results though and as I have stated before, nothing seems to beat pure "amplifier mass" for ultimate satisfaction with higher-performance full-sized headphones.

 At least that's my latest over-simplification, take your chances from China or spend some real bucks on a decent desktop amp from a recognized name brand


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TC44* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Grokit, thanks for the reply. Sounds like you're using the D1 more as a DAC than a DAC/Pre-amp. I say that because you mention direct mode or attenuating the signal. Are you connecting the D1 into a HT receiver or integrated amplifier? I would like to connect the D1 directly into a power amp and use the D1 volume control to regulate the output. 

 Things I'm worried about are
 1. Power output directly into the amp. Does it have enough gain?
 2. Noise level?

 Is anyone here using the D1 directly into a power amplifier?_

 

You're welcome, TC44. Actually, I use it mostly as a pre-amp, and will use it almost exclusively as a pre-amp/DAC if my EF5/HE5 ever gets here. I have another DAC in the system that I like at least as much as the D1, a 16-bit Fubar I/O with stand-alone PSU.

 I connect to an all-digital 7.1 H/T receiver with the tube out (mostly run in 2.1 bi-amped mode with lossless), which warms up the digital sound of my receiver nicely. The tube out has too much gain for some amp/receivers in direct mode, which is why you can bypass it, for attenuation. 

 There is no noise at all in either direct or attenuated mode, but it can overload some circuits and clip sometimes in direct mode, particularly if you power it up cold and blast the wrong recording through it.

 The D1 would work great with a power amp, just use the attenuated mode for a single volume control, very desirable.

 I would say that I am most satisfied with my D1 as a preamp first, a DAC second, and a headphone amp third, which matches up just right with my priorities


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryan, is there any way to add a remote control to the D1? I will be using it for a pre/DAC and it would be very convinient to be able to control volume from my LB._

 

It is not possible to add remote control for the D1. All the major controls on the D1 are hardware control, unless they are software adjustable, you will not be able to add remote control software/circuit into it.


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is not possible to add remote control for the D1. All the major controls on the D1 are hardware control, unless they are software adjustable, you will not be able to add remote control software/circuit into it._

 

I was thinking more a long the lines of a little motor on the volume pot.


----------



## millerlitescott

I just was on the Maverick website to order one and I got a warning from my computer that it was not secure or possibly someone/something impersonating the website so I backed out.

 Scott


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was thinking more a long the lines of a little motor on the volume pot._

 

It seems you have no imagination how many hours the developers have invested to keep the signal as clean as possible. A motor controlled volume potentiometer would be a new source for unwanted noise and hum. The same problem appears by an old-fashioned remote cable.


----------



## asianfi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *millerlitescott* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just was on the Maverick website to order one and I got a warning from my computer that it was not secure or possibly someone/something impersonating the website so I backed out.

 Scott_

 

Probably just your browser, I know firefox does this sometimes with ebay when I'm going through transactions.

 Just delete your cookies, refresh the page, and try again.

 I just ordered mine a couple hours ago


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AcousticDreams* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It seems you have no imagination how many hours the developers have invested to keep the signal as clean as possible. A motor controlled volume potentiometer would be a new source for unwanted noise and hum. The same problem appears by an old-fashioned remote cable. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, I get paid very well for my imagination, so there you go. Do I have an understanding of how all the stuff in the D1 works? No. That is why I asked.

 This is what I saw that spurred my thinking....without the input selector board.

ALPS Motorized volume 4 in remote control Potentiometer - eBay (item 250556178922 end time Jan-09-10 17:46:09 PST)


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is what I saw that spurred my thinking....without the input selector board.

ALPS Motorized volume 4 in remote control Potentiometer - eBay (item 250556178922 end time Jan-09-10 17:46:09 PST)_

 

Forget it, it makes no difference. They would have to redesign the whole unit.


----------



## millerlitescott

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *asianfi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Probably just your browser, I know firefox does this sometimes with ebay when I'm going through transactions.

 Just delete your cookies, refresh the page, and try again.

 I just ordered mine a couple hours ago 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I just ordered mine. Looking forward to trying this baby out.

 Thanks everyone for all the info. Thanks to Ryan for all the answered e-mails and his support.

 Scott


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AcousticDreams* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Forget it, it makes no difference. They would have to redesign the whole unit. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm guessing that it would push the unit upwards of $300 then as well, just for a remote... just my 2 cents.


----------



## TheBigCW

The stock tube on this isn't that bad actually... just way too bright for my tastes. Makes a solid state setup very sibilant and harsh.


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The stock tube on this isn't that bad actually... just way too bright for my tastes. Makes a solid state setup very sibilant and harsh._

 

What other tubes have you rolled? A friend of mine called me last night to tell me he had a hand full of tube from different manufactures including the Western. I am really looking forward to getting my unit. 

 Right now, I am on break from reorganizing my system to make this fit.


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AcousticDreams* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Forget it, it makes no difference. They would have to redesign the whole unit. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I guess what I was thinking was could I add the remote control unit? It uses the Black ALPS and the board that it mounts too is just for control of the pot not the signal. This was just a thought.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What other tubes have you rolled? A friend of mine called me last night to tell me he had a hand full of tube from different manufactures including the Western. I am really looking forward to getting my unit. 

 Right now, I am on break from reorganizing my system to make this fit._

 

Haven't rolled any yet, my tubes are in the mail. I have a Raytheon windmill getter and a GE 5670 in the mail.


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Haven't rolled any yet, my tubes are in the mail. I have a Raytheon windmill getter and a GE 5670 in the mail._

 

Cool. I ordered mine with the GE upgrade then found out that Paul, my friend, has a handfull of them.....oh well. Looking forward to your impressions. How long is shipping taking from the time of order?


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It uses the Black ALPS and the board that it mounts too is just for control of the pot not the signal._

 

It affects the signal path and the whole PCB design, that's reason enough, no matter what it is made for! I'm basically not against improvement, but this one would not fit into the existing concept.


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is a thin layer of wax on the surface of the unit, it will go away by time. If you don't like the "shiny" finish, you can use a dry soft cloth to wipe the wax off._

 

Ah brilliant, i did notice a waxy residue on the case when recieved, didnt realise the facia was the same, great i'll clean that off.

 On that note then looking on Mav site i noticed another unit which is different looking facia layout to the 'D1' what are the differences between the two?

Maverick Audio Online Shop


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_On that note then looking on Mav site i noticed another unit which is different looking facia layout to the 'D1' what are the differences between the two?_

 

From what I understand, you're seeing the original model. Ryan "revised" and improved it (opamp sockets, front panel layout & other things) and that new one is called the D1 which is a new release and that's why it was available at a promotional pre-order price.


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The stock tube on this isn't that bad actually... just way too bright for my tastes. Makes a solid state setup very sibilant and harsh._

 

That's weird, my SS receiver through the tube pre-out could use a little more assertiveness in the high end for my tastes, and I am not by any means someone who prefers forward treble typically. But I am using the upgraded NOS GE tube.


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AcousticDreams* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It affects the signal path and the whole PCB design, that's reason enough, no matter what it is made for! I'm basically not against improvement, but this one would not fit into the existing concept. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I guess I'll have to get out of the chair......lazy me.


----------



## giedrys

Just to be clear: there will be no difference in sound quality for headphone output between "regular" and "upgraded tubes" versions, right?


----------



## drandall

my understanding is that the headphone amp is all solid state. only the rear outputs can make use of the tube


----------



## millerlitescott

I believe only one set of the analog outputs make use of the tube the other is SS.


----------



## ELP FAN

It would have been great to switch in the tube through headphone listerning if required.


----------



## _Spanky_

Wait, can't you use the volume knob for tube output? If so, what's stopping anyone from using a male rca to female mini to connect their headphones to the tube output? I must be missing something here...


----------



## moodyrn

It just might be enough to drive headphones. The outputs are very hot. I had ordered my xs version with the preamp bypassed. I had to go in and enable the preamp so that I could tone it down. The outputs was way to hot for my receiver inputs.


----------



## _Spanky_

I'm not sure what you mean by hot outputs... I know I have a crappy pair of headphones around here, I'll wire them to RCA and when my D1 comes, I'll test it out :


----------



## thearrow

I have my HD280s hooked up to the tube out this way. ^

 Sounds great with only a couple volume notches.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have my HD280s hooked up to the tube out this way. ^_

 

Nice! I wonder about taking this a step further and maybe wiring in a switch inside the unit to switch the headphone jack from SS to tube?

 Just a fantasy thought


----------



## sp70

I can't believe none of us have thought of this before...
 I just tried it. I took the tube output, ran it into an RCA to 1/8 adapter and hooked my Grados in. The first thing I noticed was no hum, no hiss, total silence. WIth fingers crossed I turned the volume up. Success! But, as I brought it up to a decent listening level I noticed that there was some clipping / distortion even though the listening level was moderate. I guess its just not enough. 
 I wouldn't recommend anyone else trying this, its hardly listenable and i'm guessing its probably not the best for the hardware. I immediately reverted to my previous setup. I think an ideal thing though, would probably be to take any budget amp to hook the D1s tube out into. After you find your right tube, thats probably the sweetest sound you'll get out of this thing.


----------



## giedrys

That sucks. Maybe someday they'll make one with headphone output that has some "tubiness"
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'd buy that one.


----------



## moodyrn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not sure what you mean by hot outputs... I know I have a crappy pair of headphones around here, I'll wire them to RCA and when my D1 comes, I'll test it out :
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's a term we use in the pro audio world with outputs that have a strong voltage or "hot" signal.


----------



## ELP FAN

Hi All
 Has anyone had any problems using the DAC via USB, i've switched from Analogue in to try USB in my computer, switched selector to USB & not a sound! Computer says it's found new device but no signs of it in settings! I had this problem a while back with High Resolution Technologies streamer never got to the bottom of that?


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Disconnect all the cables to D1. Find a standalone wall power outlet, connect the D1, and then connect your headphone. Try that to see if there is any "hum" sound. This step is to make sure the if hum sound is from the D1, or some where else. Since there are many things which can cause the "hum" sound._

 

Done all that & just the same as i expected as much a waste of times as i spent getting wax from the pannels!.I've tried 4 sets of earphones & still the same.This is rediculas it's quite apparent to me that there is no quality control what so ever on these items & don't see why i should keep getting annoyed everytime i want listern to music.

 Someone else on here complained about the same issue so it's not just me.I know you are trying your best to help out with problems but they should be happening in this day & age, i'd understand if it was a fifty quid piece of junk from China but quite expensive one for something like this. The hum & now the USB don't work what next, looking inside i doubt the unit will last that long to be honest.I can even hear my mouse moving with the USB lead connected for crying out aloud even though there's no signal coming thru.

 A very annoyed ELP FAN & so i should be.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi All
 Has anyone had any problems using the DAC via USB, i've switched from Analogue in to try USB in my computer, switched selector to USB & not a sound! Computer says it's found new device but no signs of it in settings! I had this problem a while back with High Resolution Technologies streamer never got to the bottom of that?_

 

In your window's control panel, select "Sounds and audio devices", in the "audio" tab, choose "USB audio" as your default "sound playback" device. Then you will get the audio from the USB.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can even hear my mouse moving with the USB lead connected for crying out aloud even though there's no signal coming thru._

 

I used to hear this on my old motherboard with onboard sound. From what I researched, there was a lot of problems with proper grounding with various older motherboards. I would suggest trying another USB port and/or another computer if you have one before saying that it's the Maverick 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ryan, I hope I'm not stepping on any toes by providing help in this thread. I'm just tryin to give a little advice from what I know. It's obvious that you know more about the D1 than any of us and we appreciate you being here


----------



## ELP FAN

Nop it's a brand spanking new Shuttle.I think it's best i go pay pal & open dispute regarding refund to be honest.


----------



## jonhapimp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nop it's a brand spanking new Shuttle.I think it's best i go pay pal & open dispute regarding refund to be honest._

 

or you can RMA it


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jonhapimp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_or you can RMA it_

 

Which means you don't get 100% refund. 

 Infact if anyone wants it in the UK PM me with offer...


----------



## _Spanky_

You're really not going to try to simply plug it in another computer? Surely you know someone with a laptop or something?


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You're really not going to try to simply plug it in another computer? Surely you know someone with a laptop or something?_

 

What the hell difference does it matter where i gonna plug it!


----------



## _Spanky_

For noise (you mentioned your mouse). Ryan gave you a possible solution to the USB not working, did you try it?


----------



## ELP FAN

i have tried both my computers both same. i have done the setting before ryan mentioned, no sign of a device on settings in any of the USB's i've tried.That i'm not bothered about to be honest i don't plan using USB with it in the end, i was just trying it.

 The problem thats making me cross lies with the hum through the headset out & so does it with another person on here, no cure has been put forward, hum in headphone stages in 2010 you gotta be joking right? I actually think more than just two have this problem they are just not listerning hard enough.I've tried 4 pairs of headphones all the same.


----------



## _Spanky_

Maybe there's a grounding issue inside the unit. I read somewhere that a ferrite ring on the power line or inside after the transformer might help? Perhaps the gain is just too high and a resistor or something needs to be added? I don't know, I'm not an engineer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm sure Ryan will make it right.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone else on here complained about the same issue so it's not just me.I know you are trying your best to help out with problems but they should be happening in this day & age, i'd understand if it was a fifty quid piece of junk from China but quite expensive one for something like this. The hum & now the USB don't work what next, looking inside i doubt the unit will last that long to be honest.I can even hear my mouse moving with the USB lead connected for crying out aloud even though there's no signal coming thru.

 A very annoyed ELP FAN & so i should be._

 

I understand your frustration. Why don't you open a support ticket with us and let us help you out on the issues? I am sure we can find a way to fix this right?


----------



## grokit

On another note, I just tried my Maverick D1 (with the upgraded NOS tube) with the hard-to-drive and notoriously picky ortho-dynamic HE-5 headphones from HiFiMAN, as I was waiting for confirmation on the power supply settings for its matching amp. 

 With an LP as a source, I was barely able to light the HE-5s up with the D1's headphone amp, but no complaints. Then when I used the Maverick's internal DAC as the source, it actually did a decent job with the HE-5s. I heard more detail and noticed more instruments, and other nuances than I ever had before, in a recording that I listen to often, and they felt fully-driven at 2 to 3 o'clock as opposed to maxed out with the LP. This is the best the Maverick has ever sounded to me.

 So maybe there is hope for inexpensive amplification for the HE-5s, in the form of high-gain Chinese hybrid synergy. HiFiMAN's matching EF5 amplifier is another step up, to be sure, and has a lot more power, but the Maverick D1's headphone amp section did an admirable job with the HE-5s.


----------



## Uroboros

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi All
 Has anyone had any problems using the DAC via USB, i've switched from Analogue in to try USB in my computer, switched selector to USB & not a sound! Computer says it's found new device but no signs of it in settings! I had this problem a while back with High Resolution Technologies streamer never got to the bottom of that?_

 

Works fine here. 

 Do you have this issue with any other USB DAC you're tried? 

 You say you had this issue before with something besides the D1; so either something else is up or you got a bum D1.

 As for noise, I will also say that I was able hear mouse movement, etc when I had my X-fi Prelude hooked up in my system and I was running sound through the analogue. And I know for a fact that it was the card picking up the noise since it pretty much went away when I changed sound cards.

 Also you say you can hear the mouse movement through the USB but not any sound? That's pretty strange right there. I think for you so hear mouse movements and the like (hard drive access) something bout your PC has to be picking up these sounds and transmitting them. Since noise/hum coming from the D1 shouldn't match mouse moments and the like. 

 Of course I could be wrong here and if that's the case...nevermind


----------



## JustVisit

After some discussions with the engineer and testing about the "hum" issue, let me report my findings:

 - The gain of the headphone amp output on the D1 is high. Reason for choosing this gain value is to be able to drive some very high impedance headphones. 

 - When using low impedance / high sensitivity headphone with D1, you may hear very low hum sound when the music is not playing. This is due to the high gain output of the headphone. If the gain is reduced by adjusting the resistor value, you will not hear the hum sound even using very low impedance headphone.

 - You will not hear the hum if you are using medium to high impedance headphones with D1.

 Chinese engineers tend to put the gain to "higher" value as I have discovered recently. The headphone/audio enthusiasts community here like the idea "louder is better". 

 I need suggestions/ideas about how to improve D1 on the "gain issue". I can certainly lower the headphone gain a bit to make the headphone amp output work with low impedance headphones better, but I'm it might affect the "power" to drive very high impedance headphones.


----------



## ELP FAN

Ryan
 Thank you very much for your prompt e-mails recieved regarding my hum situation, i've ordered some lower value resistors as advised..What would be a good idea would to manufacture the PCB with two pairs of sockets where different value resistors can just be tightly slotted in/out by the owner to suit the Impedence of their headphones, so they can then easily do the job to suit any other phones they may want to use without resorting to a soldering iron.

 I'll get back regarding the USB situation when i get back home, i'm gonna try it with a friends laptop.

 Thanks again for your time.


----------



## viodea

I would rather have a flip switch if it doesn't effect sound quality.


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *viodea* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would rather have a flip switch if it doesn't effect sound quality._

 

Exactly, a bank of DIP-switches is much better for a general gain adjustment in this case, but they would have to change the layout at this part on the PCB. It makes the D1 more flexible for every headphone on this planet, without exceptions. A very high gain on the output isn't bad so far, if the remaining components are able to work with it. Putting resistors in a kind of slot is a very bad idea.


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AcousticDreams* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Putting resistors in a kind of slot is a very bad idea. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

you saying a chip in a chip base is a bad idea, only the same really.


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you saying a chip in a chip base is a bad idea, only the same really. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sorry, but this is not the same. An IC is not a resistor! An IC has principally a more or less number of pins for a safe and stable connection with the system, even in a socket. A resistor is manufactured for a soldered connection. Only amateurs would seize to such a solution.


----------



## u20v00a

Hmmmm, switchable gain for the headphone amp...

 Why is this sounding familiar? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But seriously, being able to adjust the gain with a two or three way toggle switch would be ideal.


----------



## _Spanky_

I don't know the layout of the D1 inside nor am I an engineer but wouldn't it be possible to take the wires for the headphone jack, route them to a new PCB with a dip switch and whatever other circuitry then back to the headphone jack for the gain? This wouldn't necessarily require a new main PCB layout, it would be an add-in. Low-cost to implement, I'm sure and possibly a DIY upgrade for current owners of the D1...

 Of course some kind of switch on the front panel would be the most ideal but again I'm not an engineer so I wouldn't know what would be "better" for audio transmission. In any event if it was made as an upgrade to existing models and could be implemented by the owner via a simple mod, I think that would go over well.


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AcousticDreams* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, but this is not the same. An IC is not a resistor! An IC has principally a more or less number of pins for a safe and stable connection with the system, even in a socket. A resistor is manufactured for a soldered connection. Only amateurs would seize to such a solution. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Better tell a certain audio high end company this then cos they used to do it.

 the PCB resistor sockets in question are deep & tight, the resistor will not move, besides it's not a power resistor they are only 1W


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know the layout of the D1 inside nor am I an engineer but wouldn't it be possible to take the wires for the headphone jack, route them to a new PCB with a dip switch and whatever other circuitry then back to the headphone jack for the gain? This wouldn't necessarily require a new main PCB layout, it would be an add-in. Low-cost to implement, I'm sure and possibly a DIY upgrade for current owners of the D1...

 Of course some kind of switch on the front panel would be the most ideal but again I'm not an engineer so I wouldn't know what would be "better" for audio transmission. In any event if it was made as an upgrade to existing models and could be implemented by the owner via a simple mod, I think that would go over well._

 

The headphone socked is a self contained unit solidered directly to PCB as is the 'Line In' socket, this PCB isnt the main board, it's a second slim PCB that runs the length of the facia.


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Better tell a certain audio high end company this then cos they used to do it. The PCB resistor sockets in question are deep & tight, the resistor will not move, besides it's not a power resistor they are only 1W_

 

This makes no difference, this method is only acceptable as a temporary solution for prototypes, but never in a quality product. A lot of companies misuse the term "High End" because they don't expect customers with enough knowledge in hardware design.


----------



## Remains

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In your window's control panel, select "Sounds and audio devices", in the "audio" tab, choose "USB audio" as your default "sound playback" device. Then you will get the audio from the USB.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

ELP FAN, when I first plugged my maverick into my computer via usb no sound came out of it either. After doing what Ryan has just suggested here it still did not work until I right clicked on all other devices and disabled them until only the maverick was left. After that it worked smooth as butter. I'm not saying this will solve your problem though, it's only a suggestion.

 On a separate note - I know this probably isn't the best place to ask but does anyone here have any experience setting up the maverick in linux, specifically ubuntu?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Remains* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_does anyone here have any experience setting up the maverick in linux, specifically ubuntu?_

 

From what I remember, and anyone is welcome to correct me on this, a lot of USB DAC's use the USB Audio 1.1 standard which should be implemented in just about every OS that recognizes USB. It's like a basic USB mouse or keyboard driver. I'm sure you can install your own modified driver to change the operation of the device but it should work out of the box.


----------



## jpstereo

Stupid question but I want to make sure before I move forward ... Can I plug the Maverick directly into powered speakers such as the AudioEngine 2 and use it as a preamp? - the Maverick of course would be connected to my laptop via USB.

 Thanks!


----------



## Remains

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From what I remember, and anyone is welcome to correct me on this, a lot of USB DAC's use the USB Audio 1.1 standard which should be implemented in just about every OS that recognizes USB. It's like a basic USB mouse or keyboard driver. I'm sure you can install your own modified driver to change the operation of the device but it should work out of the box._

 

Well after some fiddling around I got it working. Funny thing is that there is a noticeable difference in how my music sounds in linux compared to windows. One thing I have noticed is that lower bitrate mp3's that would otherwise sound fine in windows sound AWFUL in linux.

 Ok we can get back to talking about the maverick now


----------



## weibby

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpstereo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stupid question but I want to make sure before I move forward ... Can I plug the Maverick directly into powered speakers such as the AudioEngine 2 and use it as a preamp? - the Maverick of course would be connected to my laptop via USB.

 Thanks!_

 

Use the Preout.


----------



## dacseeker

I also have the hum sound problem.
 I use a 60 ohm impedance headphone and it is quite annoying to listen to music with the hum. But i understand i can modify some resistors to be able to listen to it.

 There is still a problem.
 I tried the tube out on an integrated amplifier. I put the volume knob of the maverick to the first, second or third tick and slowly max up the volume of the amplifier. When the volume of the amplifier is near MAX, i can hear the same puzzling hum. When I up the volume of the maverick, the hum begins to disappear near 12 o'clock and then near 15 o'clock i hear a fsss sound. The fss sound is not bothering me, it is normal i think, i never have to use the max of the amplifier !

 Only the hum is very annoying. If I put the maverick at 15 o'clock (or direct which is the same), i don't have the hum and I can have the volume I want with the integrated amplifier.
 BUT, if i want to use the maverick as preamp directly plugged to a power amplifier or amplified monitors, I will hear this hum since i will use low volume (and not 15 o'clock) !

 I generated a 50hz sound with a free software and it is really the same hum !
 Since that, I have to try to filter the alim etc. I can record the hum to try to analyse it and find a treatment.

 If anybody here who don't hear the hum normally can try to put mav volume to very low and the integrated amp to very high and can tell us if he hear it ?


----------



## Apollonius of Perga

I received a Maverick D1 on New Year's Eve and thought I would post my impressions. Despite the problems noted by some on this site, my unit came in fine shape and in good working order. I am not particularly interested in using the D1 as a headphone amp, so my comments are focused on the pre-amp and DAC functions. Right now I am using it principally as a tube pre-amp for my iPod. (At some point I plan to get something like the Wadia or Onkyo iPod transports and use the DAC in the D1, but for now I am running a 1/4" to RCA from a basic Apple dock to the analog inputs of the D1. For those who don’t know, a line level output is available in this way that by-passes the iPod’s own headphone amp. A rather good sound is achievable this way. I’ll say more about this below.) I think the sound of the D1 as a pre-amp is very good for the money. I have been listening to it for a few hours a day for the last six days and have been very pleased. As one often reads, a tube stage can “warm up” or “smooth out” the dryness and edginess of digital music. This seems perfectly true in this case. I have really been enjoying listening to all kinds of music through the D1 for that last few days. And despite the warm and smooth quality to the sound, there is no lack of clarity. In fact, the tube stage seems to add a bit of (perceived at least) sharpness to the music.
 Since I don’t have a source with a coaxial or optical output I have not been able to test that aspect of the DAC. But I have been able to do some tests with the USB input. Short story is I’d say it’s pretty good. I had it set up so that I could switch between the D1 (hooked up to my computer) and my iPod playing the same song. In terms of clarity and resolution, there was not much difference. I wasn’t hearing things from the D1 that I wasn’t hearing from the iPod. (Whether this means that the D1 has just a so-so USB DAC function or that an iPod has a pretty good one, I’ll let you decide.) But the sound was substantially fuller, giving a thicker presentation at equal volumes. (As a comparison, I’ll mention that I had a Musical Fidelity V-DAC for a few days in the Fall, and that thing, even with 320 mp3 files, pulled out remarkable detail.)
 I haven’t read much here yet about impressions of the DAC using the coaxial or optical inputs. Some comments would be welcome.


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AcousticDreams* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This makes no difference, this method is only acceptable as a temporary solution for prototypes, but never in a quality product. A lot of companies misuse the term "High End" because they don't expect customers with enough knowledge in hardware design._

 

I'm well aware what high end means & well aware your talking crap. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Tell you what give this company a ring & tell them that slot in resistors were a stupid amateur idea what they employed in the Quad '405' power amplifier as current limiters

Quad Hifi - Home


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpstereo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Stupid question but I want to make sure before I move forward ... Can I plug the Maverick directly into powered speakers such as the AudioEngine 2 and use it as a preamp? - the Maverick of course would be connected to my laptop via USB.

 Thanks!_

 

Yes you definitely can do that.


----------



## millerlitescott

I got an e-mail that mine has shipped so hopefully I will have it before the weekend and put some hours on it.

 Scott


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tell you what give this company a ring & tell them that slot in resistors were a stupid amateur idea what they employed in the Quad '405' power amplifier as current limiters_

 

What you show here is a very bad example of a single layer PCB mostly used in power amplifiers and old audio systems. This has nothing to do with the actual quality standards nor the Maverick D1! Further is the mentioned company not a measure for the remaining audio industry, rather part of a minority with a very conservative Design. I have from there really doubts that you can judge here anything at all.


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AcousticDreams* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What you show here is a very bad example of a single layer PCB mostly used in power amplifiers and old audio systems. This has nothing to do with the actual quality standards nor the Maverick D1! Further is the mentioned company not a measure for the remaining audio industry, rather part of a minority with a very conservative Design. I have from there really doubts that you can judge here anything at all. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Bozo you doan half come out with some crap. Hows about stepping back & looking at your stereo for starters before you start lecturing about quality


----------



## _Spanky_

Hey maybe you guys could start a new thread to battle in? This is about the Maverick and I would hate to see people that need suggestions/help get lost amongst your strong opinions


----------



## ngower

I'm in the market for a DAC for my Xbox 360 (games and DVDs) and music that's on my laptop. I was originally thinking about the Musical Fidelity V-DAC, but have since set my sights on the Maverick.

 X360>>>Tube Magic D1>>>NAD C326BEE>>>PSB Alpha B1

 Would this be worth the investment or can I do better within the same price range?


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ngower* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm in the market for a DAC for my Xbox 360 (games and DVDs) and music that's on my laptop. I was originally thinking about the Musical Fidelity V-DAC, but have since set my sights on the Maverick.

 X360>>>Tube Magic D1>>>NAD C326BEE>>>PSB Alpha B1

 Would this be worth the investment or can I do better within the same price range?_

 

I think the Maverick works great with my 360 via optical out, but that's just me. YMMV :]


----------



## asianfi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the Maverick works great with my 360 via optical out, but that's just me. YMMV :]_

 

I'm wondering how it fairs against the astro w/ DD. I'm big on the fps gaming so the surround is a must.


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ngower* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm in the market for a DAC for my Xbox 360 (games and DVDs) and music that's on my laptop. I was originally thinking about the Musical Fidelity V-DAC, but have since set my sights on the Maverick.

 X360>>>Tube Magic D1>>>NAD C326BEE>>>PSB Alpha B1

 Would this be worth the investment or can I do better within the same price range?_

 

I like the D1's DAC with the optical out; if your only priority is DAC, then the V-DAC may offer better resolution, but if you want the flexibility that an integrated preamp and headphone amp offer as well for $100 less, it's hard to beat the D1 IMHO.

 I got my NOS-upgraded D1 on New Year's Eve also. No hum, no hiss, no QC issues at all. Just give the tube out a little time to warm up from a cold start


----------



## AcousticDreams

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bozo you doan half come out with some crap. Hows about stepping back & looking at your stereo for starters before you start lecturing about quality._

 

Lecturing about quality is sometimes necessary, especially for bloody amateurs with perfectly unrealistic proposals like you!


----------



## millerlitescott

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *grokit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the D1's DAC with the optical out; if your only priority is DAC, then the V-DAC may offer better resolution, but if you want the flexibility that an integrated preamp and headphone amp offer as well for $100 less, it's hard to beat the D1 IMHO.

 I got my NOS-upgraded D1 on New Year's Eve also. No hum, no hiss, no QC issues at all. Just give the tube out a little time to warm up from a cold start 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 



 How long does it take for the tube to warm up?


----------



## Nirvana1000

Jesus.I got a headache from reading through this thread!Cut the ********!


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *millerlitescott* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How long does it take for the tube to warm up?_

 

At least 5 minutes to guarantee the prevention of clipping, maybe another ten to reach its full potential, in my experience.


----------



## Suedehead

I have been monitoring this thread for quite sometime now. I am in need of a DAC/AMP combo and the Maverick seems to be a decent unit. It seems as if most people are using this strictly as a DAC and less as a headphone amp. Is the amp section of this unit worthwhile to drive cans such as the Shure 840s or will I want a separate amp? I would be using this with the USB adapter to listen to CDs and 320k Mp3s off of my laptop with WMP.


----------



## _Spanky_

Suedehead, I think it is. With the opamp sockets, you can upgrade the opamp to a better quality unit. If you out-grow that then there's always room for a new amp because this has tube pre-amp and solid-state output. It's a very flexible unit that allows for future upgrades if you need them.


----------



## Suedehead

Thanks for replying. I have been torn between the Maverick and the Zero unit, however with the Zero's reliability issues, I may go with the Maverick. It looks like a good starter unit for the price.


----------



## dacseeker

I need your help about the hum !
 I recorded directly (no microphone) the solid state out, the tube out and the headphone out. I talk here only about the solid state out since the others have the same hum.
 I analysed the record with audacity and here is my finding :
 At low level (ss-out_min.jpg), I have two big 100Hz and 200Hz (-60db) and a small 50Hz (-80db).
 At high level (direct button) (ss-out_direct.jpg), there is a big background which makes a kind of white noise.

 Where does this 100Hz and 200Hz come from ? How to remove them ? diy mod ?

 I need your help to try to see if you all have this hum, putting the volume of the maverick to minimum and putting the volume of your amplifier to the max.
 If everyone have it, I will go diy mod but if not I will have to replace it ! This is why i need your help, do i have to return it or not ?

 I am ready to modify the resistors for the headphone amp, in order to use my headphone with low impedance, but for the ss out and tube out ? Can I do the same thing ? Perhaps it is related to the hot outputs ? Is lowering the gain of the output stage lowering the noise and hot ?

 I think there is something here to explore in order to change the opamp. Someone in this thread reported some problems about opamp rolling (high offset, oscillation), maybe checking the gain of the output stage will allow to do opamp rolling.


----------



## Apollonius of Perga

I just opened up my Maverick D1 to put in a GE 5670W tube. And while I know little about electronics manufacture, I have to say everything looked pretty tidy inside my unit. The new tube is now settling in. (I was a little surprised to see that the GE tube is about half the length of the Chinese tube.)


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Suedehead* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for replying. I have been torn between the Maverick and the Zero unit, however with the Zero's reliability issues, I may go with the Maverick. It looks like a good starter unit for the price._

 

I was in the same boat as you. But there's a few things you can think about to help you decide, they did for me anyway:

*Support* - So many threads and dead Zero's and from what I've seen nobody representing the company has registered on these forums or provided any kind of support. Instead it's the eBay sellers that do that and they're not obligated to. Ryan is here and replies very fast to e-mails.
*Features* - It has more features than the Zero. You would have to add the USB module to the Zero and that bumps it's price up.
*Reliability* - I have yet to hear about someone with a dead unit.
*Looks* - I try not to buy electronics for this but you gotta admit, the Maverick has that professional look that the Zero just can't accomplish. Several people have said that all the knobs and switches are solid.
*Re-sale* - With all of the options of the Maverick, if I just absolutely end up hating it (I highly doubt this will happen), it has such flexibility that I would imagine it could be easily re-sold for several different setups.


----------



## rv5

i know i asked this several pages back but doesn't anyone have experience with both this and the D10? i no longer need the portability of the d10 and am wondering if it'd be worth stacking with the d1 DAC or if i should go ahead and just sell the d10.


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Suedehead, I think it is. With the opamp sockets, you can upgrade the opamp to a better quality unit. If you out-grow that then there's always room for a new amp because this has tube pre-amp and solid-state output. It's a very flexible unit that allows for future upgrades if you need them._

 



 Which would be a better opamp?, Thanks


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MartinV56* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which would be a better opamp?, Thanks_

 

I'm actually trying to figure that out. I'm not electrically inclined so I don't want to fry the unit or damage it.

 Check this out though:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/opamp-swap-465069/

 Eventually, I hope to get 2 of the dual Earth HDAM units if they will work and fit physically:
ÐÂ½¨ÍøÒ³ 1


----------



## MartinV56

Check this:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...ml#post6181494


----------



## _Spanky_

MartinV56, I saw that and a couple of comments about the HDAM. I just don't know, I can't find anyone that's tested it nor anyone that's said it will work. I know opamps can be interchangeable, being a noob, I don't want to risk damage to my unit. I know I'll burn the Maverick in with the LF353 and then perhaps use the LT1364 on the DAC and LM4562 on the amp. I will definitely post back findings if and when I do it.


----------



## djnagle

Mine was shipped yesterday. Really looking forward to playing with it.


----------



## bearmann

Any news regarding the "USB vs. bit perfect output" problem?!


----------



## weibby

I think, its safe to say that it won't be fixed until the next revision.
 This batch is pretty much sold as it is as its been mass produced in china - having a fix now would mean recalling all the stock back and re doing the circuit.


----------



## _Spanky_

I believe it might be able to be corrected via a custom driver and I asked Ryan about it and here's what he said:

  Quote:


 The USB will be able to pass up to 96khz/24-bit signal via normal software (using high level windows API). However, some people are using software like foobar to communicate to the USB sound card chip directly, and they are not be able to send signal higher than 16bit/48khz. Right now I am getting help from some senior software developers, hopefully they can find out a way to over-ride the communication. 
 

Perhaps there is hope


----------



## TheBigCW

Wow! I just got the Raytheon and BOY does it make a difference! Female vocals are GORGEOUS! Silky smooth, and boy does it resolve bass detail well! Really stellar.


----------



## djnagle

Cool Big. Have you tried the Western?


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I believe it might be able to be corrected via a custom driver and I asked Ryan about it and here's what he said:



 Perhaps there is hope 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Maybe you can help me disipher that. Is he saying that Media Monkey and other programs like that will not do the higher.....stuff (I use that word because I don't know what you guys are talking about)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What is Windows API? And, how do I make sure I am using it? Thanks in advance for helping an idiot.


----------



## _Spanky_

djnagle, I'm not entirely sure since I haven't received my unit yet so I can't comment on what the problem might be.

 Here's what I think is going on:
 The internal DAC does 24-Bit/96KHz however, the USB part that connects to your computer passes the audio at (exactly?) 16-Bit/48KHz thus altering it and not making it bit-perfect. A lot of users like bit-perfect but honestly in my basic setup I haven't heard the difference. I believe it's the USB Audio 1.1 standard to pass audio at 16-Bit/48KHz and a custom driver can be written and installed to change this.


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Cool Big. Have you tried the Western?_

 



 IMHO, WE 396A great middle, Raytheon have best bass.


----------



## bearmann

regarding USB:

 The problem is that the USB receiver of the Maverick only accepts a 16/48 stream when using WASAPI/Kernel Streaming/ASIO4All. So if you're using foobar/winamp/Media Monkey/whatever you can't get bit perfect audio.
 The Windows Media Player uses another API (imagine it as an interface between your DAC and the media player of your choice) to communicate with the soundcard and with this bit perfect output up to 24/96 SHOULD work. But AFAIK that isn't confirm at this moment.

 I am hoping that there'll be a work-around or a driver patch so that you get a bit perfect output with WASAPI@foobar2k. 

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## djnagle

Thanks Spanky and Bear. I understand that. So when I want to rip a CD I should do it in Media Monkey as it will do FLAC and not Windows Media Player. Then for playback, I should use Media Player. I am actually starting to understand this.


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MartinV56* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMHO, WE 396A great middle, Raytheon have best bass._

 

Thanks Martin. I have a handfull of tubes comming my way from a local friend to try on the D1. He will include the WE and Raytheon as well as a number of very very off brands. Should be a fun night. Cheers.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So when I want to rip a CD I should do it in Media Monkey as it will do FLAC and not Windows Media Player. Then for playback, I should use Media Player._

 

I don't want to derail the thread... I also don't want to be taken seriously since I don't think I've ever ripped a CD, however, I think it's favored to rip using EAC into WAV then convert the WAV into FLAC. For playback, I think you use whatever suits you best. Personally, I don't think I'd ever use Windows Media Player for audio playback (MPC-HC for video, yet another story). Foobar all the way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Back on track:
 [size=x-large]MAVERICK[/size]


----------



## millerlitescott

djnagle Did yours arrive yet? Mine is still on hold in China.

 Scott


----------



## thearrow

For CD ripping: EAC guide

 Mine was on hold in China for several days before it moved.


----------



## asianfi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For CD ripping: EAC guide

 Mine was on hold in China for several days before it moved._

 

Mine has been on hold since January 1st


----------



## djnagle

Yep, Mine is still on hold in China. At least they have company. Oh, the stories they will tell.


----------



## garybx

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The problem is that the USB receiver of the Maverick only accepts a 16/48 stream when using WASAPI/Kernel Streaming/ASIO4All. So if you're using foobar/winamp/Media Monkey/whatever you can't get bit perfect audio.
 The Windows Media Player uses another API (imagine it as an interface between your DAC and the media player of your choice) to communicate with the soundcard and with this bit perfect output up to 24/96 SHOULD work._

 

Does anyone have any idea if this problem exists on a Mac Pro running Leopard (or Snow Leopard)?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *garybx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have any idea if this problem exists on a Mac Pro running Leopard (or Snow Leopard)?_

 

From what I understand, it's a USB Audio 1.1 standard. It would be a "problem" on all operating systems that support USB. Keep in mind, it's a specific situation with directly talking to the hardware via ASIO and whatnot.

 Keep in mind, I don't have my unit yet and the above statement is speculation from what I've read. I could be completely wrong.


----------



## sp70

Yes, it is indeed still a problem on OS X. I tried it on OS X and Linux and both gave the same results no matter the tweaking. I don't think its so much a USB Audio 1.1 standard problem as much as its simply the USB controller in the Maverick telling your Kernel that it supports only 16/48, thus everything is output as such. 

 Secondly, I too would be very interested in hearing some speculation on what the Maverick is like with the Audio-GD HDAMs in it.


----------



## xcluded

Hi , does D1 works well with audio technica headphone ? e.g AD2000 ?


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sp70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, it is indeed still a problem on OS X. I tried it on OS X and Linux and both gave the same results no matter the tweaking. I don't think its so much a USB Audio 1.1 standard problem as much as its simply the USB controller in the Maverick telling your Kernel that it supports only 16/48, thus everything is output as such._

 

So is it advantageous to use my Mac Pro's optical out or the USB out to my Maverick D1? Or the same either way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




?

 My guess is that the Maverick upconverts either way, will report back...


----------



## sp70

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *grokit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So is it advantageous to use my Mac Pro's optical out or the USB out to my Maverick D1? Or the same either way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




?

 My guess is that the Maverick upconverts either way, will report back..._

 

If you want bit-perfect, then yes. But one of the draws of the D1 supposedly was the way that it handled USB audio. Though so far with the bit perfect issues, that point is moot. Tell us how it goes.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sp70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Quote:


  Originally Posted by *grokit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
So is it advantageous to use my Mac Pro's optical out or the USB out to my Maverick D1? Or the same either way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




?

 My guess is that the Maverick upconverts either way, will report back...

 

If you want bit-perfect, then yes. But one of the draws of the D1 supposedly was the way that it handled USB audio. Though so far with the bit perfect issues, that point is moot. Tell us how it goes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think sp70 is talking about the optical out having an advantage over the USB, not agreeing with the "upconverts either way" statement. The DAC itself does 24-Bit/96KHz apparently so I see no reason why optical wouldn't be flexible enough to do bit-perfect. Do report back with your findings though


----------



## djnagle

Out of ignorance I have to ask. Is not being bit perfect that bad? Will I be agast as how terrible 16/44 sounds compared to 24/96?

 Mine is on its way and now I am starting to wonder if I did the right thing by buying it. I chose the D1 because of the USB connection.


----------



## djnagle

Has anyone tried putting a Turntable into the RCA inputs. Does this even make sense? I am assuming the RCA inputs are anolog (SP)......it is early.


----------



## millerlitescott

dj I would imagine that there is not enough gain without the use of a phono pre-amp. But I think you would be fine if you were using a phono pre-amp.

 Scott


----------



## djnagle

Cool Scott. I built a Hagarman Octal Cornet phono pre-amp. I was just confused this morning (the first rattle out of the box is always interesting) about the RCA input being digital so it would not accept the Phono pre input. 

 How long do the units stay on hold in Chinesse customs?...anyone know?


----------



## Apollonius of Perga

I tried my turntable through the analog inputs the other day. Sounded very nice.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Out of ignorance I have to ask. Is not being bit perfect that bad? Will I be agast as how terrible 16/44 sounds compared to 24/96?

 Mine is on its way and now I am starting to wonder if I did the right thing by buying it. I chose the D1 because of the USB connection._

 

If you have a lot of 24-Bit/96KHz files then yea you technically are missing out on some data. Whether or not you'll notice it depends on the quality of the source and the rest of your system. I'm sure there's people that don't notice it even with setups in the $1000+ range.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi , does D1 works well with audio technica headphone ? e.g AD2000 ?_

 

If you're going USB > Maverick > AD2000 then NO, it doesn't work well because of the high gain of Maverick's headphone amp. To drive low impedance, high sensitivity headphones properly you SHOULD lower the gain first. I did this in order to listen with my ATH-W100 and after lowering the gain (quite drastically) it sounds very fine! 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Out of ignorance I have to ask. Is not being bit perfect that bad? Will I be agast as how terrible 16/44 sounds compared to 24/96?

 Mine is on its way and now I am starting to wonder if I did the right thing by buying it. I chose the D1 because of the USB connection._

 

At hydrogenaudio there is quite a discussion wether or not you can hear the difference between a true 24/96 source and a 24/96 source which has been dithered and resampled to 16/48. AFAIR there was no one who could distinguish the difference in an ABX test with real music, though you can create specific sine waves with which you can actually hear a difference.
 But if you have quite some 24/96 records you should try to connect the Maverick via S/PDIF.

 Regarding 16/44.1 vs. 16/48:
 Resampling from 44.1 to 48 is quite bad because 48 obviously is no multiple of 44.1 - this will generate some errors/mistakes in the resampling process.
 But upsampling from 44.1 to 48 is in no way "horrible" nor "bad". I am quite sure that most people (regardless their equipment) would have a hard time hearing the difference between bit perfect 16/44.1 and resampled 16/48.
 Nonetheless, resampling 44.1 to 48 is completely unnecessary and has no benefits - so why do it?! 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *grokit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So is it advantageous to use my Mac Pro's optical out or the USB out to my Maverick D1? Or the same either way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




?

 My guess is that the Maverick upconverts either way, will report back..._

 

In order to circumvent the problem with bit perfect USB output, you really should use the S/PDIF connection of your Mac for the Maverick.
 The S/PDIF receiver of the Maverick (and most other DACs) has nothing to do with the USB receiver and there SHOULD be no problem with resampling whatsoever.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## garybx

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To drive low impedance, high sensitivity headphones properly you SHOULD lower the gain first. I did this in order to listen with my ATH-W100 and after lowering the gain (quite drastically) it sounds very fine!_

 

In previous messages, I saw you mention both R70/R71 and R54/R55 for adjusting the gain. Is one pair for the line level output and the other for the headphone output? If so, for the line level resistors, do they adjust the level for both the solid state and tube outputs?

 Thanks!


----------



## _Spanky_

I'd like to know as well. What kind of resistor did you use? Brand, rating? Perhaps a link to some on Digikey?


----------



## bearmann

regarding gain...

*DON'T mess around with the gain if you never used a soldering iron before! And don't forget that you'll LOSE the warranty!*

*A.* Lowering the gain of the headphone amp:
 Lower R54/R55 (default value should be between 22k ohm and 30k ohm) to 15k ohm or lower. Mine has 4.7k ohm at this moment.

*B.* Lowering the gain of the line out:
 Lower R42/R43 (default value should be around 3k ohm).

*C.* Lowering the gain of the tube out:
 Not possible in this design.

 For A and B you can use your generic 1/4W 1% metal film resistor.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## garybx

I notice that you don't mention the R70/R71 pair - did it turn out that they're not involved in any of the gain adjustments?


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *garybx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I notice that you don't mention the R70/R71 pair - did it turn out that they're not involved in any of the gain adjustments?_

 

Yes and no. It's easier to change R54/R55 in order to lower the gain of the headphone amp.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## ninjikiran

I have cemented my decision to try this DAC/AMP. Now I only need a few bucks but plan to get it within the upcoming months.

 Edit: Found out my answer w/ foobar.

 as for my Vista sound settings,

 Speakers(default sound device, not really speakers just called this) set to 16-bit 41000hz

 My Spdif/Out is set to 24-bit 96k which is my sound card that I am using atm

 I guess I would set the USB DAC to 24-bit 192k(or 16-bit 48000hz when plugged in with USB) when it pops up on there.

 I assume WASAPI skips this anyway(like ASIO)

 If anyone knows if on the X-fi prelude using Bit-Matched completely evades the DAC. I plan on trying both USB and Spdif when I receive a unit just to test it out for myself but depending on the answer I probably already know USB will win out.

 Overall though can't wait to see how they power my 250 ohm DT770 Pro's, almost makes me want to purchase on impulse even if it will hurt my other leisure time budget(but not by enough to really care that much since the price is amazing).

 Ignore my grammar, 8am w/ a head ache brewing making me dumber by the second.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_regarding USB:

 The problem is that the USB receiver of the Maverick only accepts a 16/48 stream when using WASAPI/Kernel Streaming/ASIO4All. So if you're using foobar/winamp/Media Monkey/whatever you can't get bit perfect audio.
 The Windows Media Player uses another API (imagine it as an interface between your DAC and the media player of your choice) to communicate with the soundcard and with this bit perfect output up to 24/96 SHOULD work. But AFAIK that isn't confirm at this moment.

 I am hoping that there'll be a work-around or a driver patch so that you get a bit perfect output with WASAPI@foobar2k. 

 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

You can still choose Direct Sound in foobar, it will go straight to the USB but has to pass through the Vista Sound Stack(Or the mixer XP uses). Vista is better in this regard and doesn't seem to negatively impact any sound, but like you I rather be safe.

 Reading through 38 pages in one night was fun.


----------



## Ben_Jowito

Hi bearmann!
 So you are saying that the DAC/HP Amp is unusable with a high sensitivity headphone without changing some resistor !
 So as I am using a high sensitivity /low impedance headphone, and I never used a soldering iron before, this DAC/Headphone Amp is not for me??
 Thank you for your aswer!
 Best regards

 PS : Ryan just told me that he can customize the Amp for a low impedance headphone if you tell him to.


----------



## dacseeker

Here is the Ryan's answer with the detail instructions for changing the gain:

 Line out gain:
 Change the below resistors:
 - R42/43
 - It is rated as around 3K Ohm now.
 - Change it to 2K Ohm or less to reduce the both line out and tube pre out gain.

 Headphone output gain:
 - Change R54/55.
 - Right now it is rated as around)30K Ohm, reduce it up to 15k Ohm or lower will reduce the gain as well.

 The resistors they use are 1 watt resistors.

 The default gain of line out in D1 is twice the gain as normal CD player.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dacseeker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The resistors they use are 1 watt resistors._

 

That's true for R70/R71 but R42/43 and R54/55 are 1/4W 1% metal film resistors...


----------



## _Spanky_

I just received mine and thought I would say a few things about it. First off, with a lot of products, especially the pricier ones, I tend to have buyer's remorse. Not with this. I'm not disappointed at all in how it performs and from what I've read, it will only get better with burn-in. Right now it is a bit shrill for my tastes but I'm a basshead and I will admit the bass is there. I know the op-amps are a little on the lower-end side and I have a few on standby to try out. For reference, mine was shipped the 4th and I received it the 9th (January 2010 for those thread diggers) and I just picked it up today (Post Office). I dislike DHL. Once inside the US they pass the package off to USPS and how they ship it is anyones guess. I live in a rural area without a mailbox so my address is technically undeliverable from USPS's standpoint and DHL doesn't accept a P.O. Box so I had to give my address in the following manner in order for it to arrive:

 Name
 Street Address
 P.O. Box
 City, State Zip Code

 I decided to do a unboxing in case anyone was interested in how it was packed. I took these pictures as I did the unbox so what you see is what I saw for the first time as well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 It is sent in a plastic bag in a foam support inside a double thickness box that is taped down tight. Very secure and snug.

 Pictures:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...x/DSC05119.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...x/DSC05120.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...x/DSC05121.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...x/DSC05122.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...x/DSC05123.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...x/DSC05124.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...x/DSC05125.JPG

 This unit gives me plenty of selection as to how I want to use it. I currently have it hooked up via USB, Coaxial and Analog. All the buttons are solid. I will say this thing has a ton of gain and it does have a bit of noise but only if you're listening to nothing. I don't think I will be bothered by it at all. Using my 80ohm DT770's, the first 2 steps in the volume knob don't produce listen-able sound. The first does nothing and the second gives faint audio in the right channel only. From there, I have about 5-6 steps for my personal listening level before it gets too loud, however I might even say 7 on occasion. Each step is noticeable in the volume change, no huge jumps or uneven stepping.

 My issues:
 I do have one with a wobble as described in another post. I plan on putting peices of foam tape on the legs as my desk surface is a bit slick. This will even it out and prevent it from moving.
 Unit is slippery. Ryan mentioned that a batch had extra wax or something. This doesn't bother me really, it was just a little surprising out of the box. 

 Really, as it stands I don't have any major problems or concerns about this unit. It works just as advertised and has potential for some tweaks which I do look forward to 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now... time for burn-in. I'll report back if it changes it's signature in a big way. 

 Lastly, I would like to thank Ryan for addressing my concerns and questions in a polite manner throughout all of this. I will continue to recommend this product.

 *EDIT*
 About 5 hours in and it feels like there's a pinch more bass... could be in my head though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, my bad on the tippy unit... I had some crud on my desk and one of the Maverick's legs found it and was tippy. I cleaned the feet off and put some foam tape and now this thing is solid as a rock, it's like it's bolted to my desk


----------



## MartinV56

IMHO the XS Dac is a very good preamp

 CD-coaxial
 Tuner-aux
 Phono preamp Shure M64- DVD

 2C51, WE 396A, only useTube output

 Amps: SET, bi-amping, 2A3 HF and MF- 300B bass


----------



## millerlitescott

Mine is on the move now so I should see it by weeks end.


----------



## _Spanky_

About 5 hours in and it feels like there's a pinch more bass... could be in my head though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, my bad on the tippy unit... I had some crud on my desk and one of the Maverick's legs found it and was tippy. I cleaned the feet off and put some foam tape and now this thing is solid as a rock, it's like it's bolted to my desk


----------



## specto

Has anyone used this with the grado SR325? I talked with the Maverick person and he said that they could modify it for low impedance headphones.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *specto* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone used this with the grado SR325? I talked with *the Maverick person and he said that they could modify it for low impedance headphones.*_

 

That'd be very interesting because the ridiculous high gain of the headphone amp is the only major flaw of the Maverick, IMHO.


----------



## _Spanky_

Anyone else notice that when you switch through the sources going from Coaxial to Analog that the switch from USB to Analog gives a brief bit of what the Coaxial is playing? Hope I'm making sense


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone else notice that when you switch through the sources going from Coaxial to Analog that the switch from USB to Analog gives a brief bit of what the Coaxial is playing? Hope I'm making sense 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Like crosstalk or crossfade? I will report when I get my unit. It left China today.


----------



## _Spanky_

I'm not sure what it is but it only lasts about half a second. It's not annoying, just kinda funky like that noise when going from coaxial to optical that was mentioned earlier.


----------



## Remains

I would just like to say that with the 25ohm denon d2k's there is no gain whatsoever.


----------



## DannyBuoy

I have had my D1 since Dec. 29th and I have been very impressed with the sound, features and build quality of this unit as well as the VERY professional and courteous email threads I have had with Ryan regarding his equipment.

 Immediately after getting my D1 (with the upgraded tubes) I too was disappointed to find I could not set the soundcard to 16/44.1 as it has been said over and over in here.

 So I connected it to a virgin install of Win7 to see what the native USB/Codec’s would allow me to do. Well that went nowhere. As a matter of fact, the choices to change settings in Control Panel were greyed out so I could not even force the change.

 Being a Microsoft Developer for 15 years has given me a lot of tenacity on problem solving and I decided I would give this a deeper look on my development machine with the Windows SDK and VB.Net 2008 to see what I could do to first query the device USB interface, and then the data stream to see what I was allowed to modify as a custom filter to override the hardware signature sent to Windows.

 What I found was that I was able to change my data stream to 16/44.1 but the soundcard buffer would not acknowledge the packets even though the USB/DAC chip Ryan uses in the first stage (soundcard) is fully capable of USB 1.0/12 MB/S data stream at 44.1/48 or 32 KHz.

 I am still working on some code to create a custom filter (think of it as a codec) to set the USB device handler (USBAUDIO.SYS) to latch onto the 44.1 KHz setting before the hardware layer in Windows latches onto the 16/48 setting.

 In the meantime, I also installed J.River's Media Center as this player allows you access to the same codec’s as Media Monkey/FooBar/etc. but it also allows you to tweak the DSP settings a lot more than any of those MPs.

 I like to use the least layers in building anything, be it software or sound and although WASAPI is enjoyed by a lot of people, I prefer to use DirectSound from Windows if possible since it is not an abstraction layer above an existing layer and since Vista (and the move away from KMixer) the Direct Sound layer has evolved a lot to accommodate HD and multi-channel needs. 

 So in J.River I am able to set the Audio Output to "Direct Sound" and then in the "output Settings" and I am able to set the USB Device to 24/96 and 
 I have tested it with Flac, MP3, and WMA and the sound is very stable, and to my ears, it seems more relaxed with less semblance as I was experiencing with the 16/48 native settings.

 I am hoping others (Bearmen?) will try the J.River/Direct Sound/24-96 settings as well and see if it works for them and if they too experience the slightly warmer, more relaxed sound (I use Denon D5000's and UE 10's at my desk).

 So here is a link to download the 30 day trial of J.River:Media Center - J. River Media Center software

 And here's a couple screencaps of the settings you need to change:Head-fi - Windows Live

 And just in case, my machine is a Dual Quad Xeon/12 GB Ram/Windows Server 2008 with Rhapsody, Media Monkey, Media Player, Foo Bar2000, and Cowon Media Center on it as well as the J.River Media Center 14 of course.


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Remains* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would just like to say that with the 25ohm denon d2k's there is no gain whatsoever._

 

Hi , at which position of the volumn knob sound comfortable to you ?


----------



## Remains

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi , at which position of the volumn knob sound comfortable to you ?_

 

Well if I start at the 6 o' clock position(no sound) and then work my way up 4 "clicks" or "steps" that is where I usually like to keep it at. I can comfortably listen all the way up to the 9 o clock position though, but anything past that is too loud for me.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That'd be very interesting because the ridiculous high gain of the headphone amp is the only major flaw of the Maverick, IMHO._

 

Our new production units already have gain reduced a bit compare to previous production. I am thinking to further reduce the gain of the headphone based on the feedback.


----------



## _Spanky_

I just popped the LT1364 and LM4562 into my unit and I'm positive that the highs are less shrill. The bass and mids are about the same, maybe the bass has a little bit more clarity but I'm undecided. These are virgin units so they will need burn-in along with the whole unit (Probably around 20 hours use now).

 I've got the LT1364 in the DAC (socket closest to the tube) and the LM4562 in the headphone amp.


----------



## JustVisit

The other question I want to ask you guys is the volume control.

 I can make the volume control more "linear", means you will have bigger "range" to adjust volume from low to high. In my local head-fi community, people tend to like to have almost max volume at only 12 o'clock position, if you extend the max to further position, it will be considered that the unit is "under powered". However, from the feedback I've seen on here, people are like "more range" to adjust volume. Please let me know your opinion, it will help me to improve D1 in the future production


----------



## _Spanky_

Personally I think an average headphone should max around 12 o'clock. This would give room for higher and lower ohm headphones. Also, I'm getting crosstalk when I have something playing via Coaxial and the source knob is on Analog, I can actually hear the music playing over Coaxial. It's very faint and for me only in the right channel, however it is louder than the background noise.

 Something I'm kind of curious about if you're going to release a new version is maybe trading up? I don't know what kinda changes you're doing but would it be possible to either send our models in to have them upgraded or either count as a credit towards a new model?


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Something I'm kind of curious about if you're going to release a new version is maybe trading up? I don't know what kinda changes you're doing but would it be possible to either send our models in to have them upgraded or either count as a credit towards a new model?_

 

No I am not going to release a new version any time soon. I just want to make some minor changes in the gain output value. 

 As for the crosstalk issue, I am going to do the test in my setup to see the result.


----------



## Remains

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The other question I want to ask you guys is the volume control....._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Personally I think an average headphone should max around 12 o'clock. This would give room for higher and lower ohm headphones._

 

I agree with spanky. On a seperate note, Ryan I was wondering if HDAM's can be used in the maverick. I've been considering getting the opa-moon to try out in the amp section.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As for the crosstalk issue, I am going to do the test in my setup to see the result._

 

Alright. It could very well be my sound card. I'm using the analog and SPDIF out of my sound card to feed the Maverick for different applications.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Remains* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree with spanky. On a seperate note, Ryan I was wondering if HDAM's can be used in the maverick. I've been considering getting the opa-moon to try out in the amp section._

 

I'm pretty sure they can be and I even emailed Kingwa about it. It would just be a matter of physical space which I have yet to measure. He said as long as the circuitry is modern (which this is) it should work. Kingwa has on his HDAM page a list of opamps that the HDAM can replace and the LF353 is on there, however the ones in the Maverick are LF353N. Whether there's a difference, I don't know. I'm going to let my whole unit with the rolled opamps burn in many more hours and then at that time think about dropping the $60 or so for 2 dual HDAMs.


----------



## ninjikiran

Bit my finger and ordered one, can't wait to try it out.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had my D1 since Dec. 29th and I have been very impressed with the sound, features and build quality of this unit as well as the VERY professional and courteous email threads I have had with Ryan regarding his equipment.

 Immediately after getting my D1 (with the upgraded tubes) I too was disappointed to find I could not set the soundcard to 16/44.1 as it has been said over and over in here.

 So I connected it to a virgin install of Win7 to see what the native USB/Codec’s would allow me to do. Well that went nowhere. As a matter of fact, the choices to change settings in Control Panel were greyed out so I could not even force the change.

 Being a Microsoft Developer for 15 years has given me a lot of tenacity on problem solving and I decided I would give this a deeper look on my development machine with the Windows SDK and VB.Net 2008 to see what I could do to first query the device USB interface, and then the data stream to see what I was allowed to modify as a custom filter to override the hardware signature sent to Windows.

 What I found was that I was able to change my data stream to 16/44.1 but the soundcard buffer would not acknowledge the packets even though the USB/DAC chip Ryan uses in the first stage (soundcard) is fully capable of USB 1.0/12 MB/S data stream at 44.1/48 or 32 KHz.

 I am still working on some code to create a custom filter (think of it as a codec) to set the USB device handler (USBAUDIO.SYS) to latch onto the 44.1 KHz setting before the hardware layer in Windows latches onto the 16/48 setting.

 In the meantime, I also installed J.River's Media Center as this player allows you access to the same codec’s as Media Monkey/FooBar/etc. but it also allows you to tweak the DSP settings a lot more than any of those MPs.

 I like to use the least layers in building anything, be it software or sound and although WASAPI is enjoyed by a lot of people, I prefer to use DirectSound from Windows if possible since it is not an abstraction layer above an existing layer and since Vista (and the move away from KMixer) the Direct Sound layer has evolved a lot to accommodate HD and multi-channel needs. 

 So in J.River I am able to set the Audio Output to "Direct Sound" and then in the "output Settings" and I am able to set the USB Device to 24/96 and 
 I have tested it with Flac, MP3, and WMA and the sound is very stable, and to my ears, it seems more relaxed with less semblance as I was experiencing with the 16/48 native settings.

 I am hoping others (Bearmen?) will try the J.River/Direct Sound/24-96 settings as well and see if it works for them and if they too experience the slightly warmer, more relaxed sound (I use Denon D5000's and UE 10's at my desk).

 So here is a link to download the 30 day trial of J.River:Media Center - J. River Media Center software

 And here's a couple screencaps of the settings you need to change:Head-fi - Windows Live

 And just in case, my machine is a Dual Quad Xeon/12 GB Ram/Windows Server 2008 with Rhapsody, Media Monkey, Media Player, Foo Bar2000, and Cowon Media Center on it as well as the J.River Media Center 14 of course._

 

Nice write up, looking forward to seeing your work. Would also like some of your wisdom being you are a more experienced developer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I would assume following your method might see some improvement in the audio stream considering it might only be re-sampled once in windows rather than once in windows (16/44.1k) then again in the device (24/92k). Just an uneducated assumption. Since any form of processing has the potential to corrupt the stream


----------



## bearmann

regarding volume control:

 As more and more headphones are sensitive and tend to have low impedance I think that the max volume should be reached by 3 o'clock! So average listening position would be around 12 o'clock, so that you have minimum channel imbalance through the volume pot.

 If the max volume is already reached at 12 o'clock your average listening position would be around 9 o'clock. People who tend to listen to quiet music would have very little volume control...

 just my 2 cent.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## djnagle

Great write up....I think. I have absolutly no idea what you just said. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is there a way to translate this into a simple "what button to push" guide?

 Yesterday my unit was at the sorting station in China and this morning it is in Cincinati (sp)...that was fast. Can't wait to give it a test drive. I ordered the tube upgrade but a friend of mine brought over 10 other tubes to roll in it including the Western and Windmill.

 I have Grado SR60 but am not a big headphone guy. I will be using this as a DAC Pre-amp for my main system. Including:

JBL 4530 scoop midbass cabs with JBL 2225 woofers
JBL 2441 compression drivers with Radian Diaphragms and StereoLab CF400hz horns for mids
Big Ass Heil for supper tweeters
Active crossover
Adcom 555 SS amp for the woofs
Decware Zen amp for the mids
Kegger EL34 PP amp for the Heils
HP computer with 1.5TB HD for Music Server and internet radio
DIY turntable
Hagerman Octal Cornet phono Pre.
I run the MS wireless from my LZ-boy through my labtop.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had my D1 since Dec. 29th and I have been very impressed with the sound, features and build quality of this unit as well as the VERY professional and courteous email threads I have had with Ryan regarding his equipment.

 Immediately after getting my D1 (with the upgraded tubes) I too was disappointed to find I could not set the soundcard to 16/44.1 as it has been said over and over in here.

 So I connected it to a virgin install of Win7 to see what the native USB/Codec’s would allow me to do. Well that went nowhere. As a matter of fact, the choices to change settings in Control Panel were greyed out so I could not even force the change.

 Being a Microsoft Developer for 15 years has given me a lot of tenacity on problem solving and I decided I would give this a deeper look on my development machine with the Windows SDK and VB.Net 2008 to see what I could do to first query the device USB interface, and then the data stream to see what I was allowed to modify as a custom filter to override the hardware signature sent to Windows.

 What I found was that I was able to change my data stream to 16/44.1 but the soundcard buffer would not acknowledge the packets even though the USB/DAC chip Ryan uses in the first stage (soundcard) is fully capable of USB 1.0/12 MB/S data stream at 44.1/48 or 32 KHz.

 I am still working on some code to create a custom filter (think of it as a codec) to set the USB device handler (USBAUDIO.SYS) to latch onto the 44.1 KHz setting before the hardware layer in Windows latches onto the 16/48 setting.

 In the meantime, I also installed J.River's Media Center as this player allows you access to the same codec’s as Media Monkey/FooBar/etc. but it also allows you to tweak the DSP settings a lot more than any of those MPs.

 I like to use the least layers in building anything, be it software or sound and although WASAPI is enjoyed by a lot of people, I prefer to use DirectSound from Windows if possible since it is not an abstraction layer above an existing layer and since Vista (and the move away from KMixer) the Direct Sound layer has evolved a lot to accommodate HD and multi-channel needs. 

 So in J.River I am able to set the Audio Output to "Direct Sound" and then in the "output Settings" and I am able to set the USB Device to 24/96 and 
 I have tested it with Flac, MP3, and WMA and the sound is very stable, and to my ears, it seems more relaxed with less semblance as I was experiencing with the 16/48 native settings.

 I am hoping others (Bearmen?) will try the J.River/Direct Sound/24-96 settings as well and see if it works for them and if they too experience the slightly warmer, more relaxed sound (I use Denon D5000's and UE 10's at my desk).

 So here is a link to download the 30 day trial of J.River:Media Center - J. River Media Center software

 And here's a couple screencaps of the settings you need to change:Head-fi - Windows Live

 And just in case, my machine is a Dual Quad Xeon/12 GB Ram/Windows Server 2008 with Rhapsody, Media Monkey, Media Player, Foo Bar2000, and Cowon Media Center on it as well as the J.River Media Center 14 of course._


----------



## bearmann

*@DannyBuoy:*

 Sorry, I missed your post the first time... so here we go.

 I'll try the J.River although I'm a foo2k hardliner. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 In the meantime I tried the same in foo2k what you did in J.River:
 -> DirectSound @Mav @USB
 -> forced 24bit
 -> forced 96k resampler (pphs@ultra mode)

 Works flawlessly! I am surprised, honestly. So now we can get 24/96 records _bit perfect_ to the Mav, that's not bad. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Sadly we still have no solution for bit perfect 16/44.1...

 I'll play around with J.River this evening and will try some things with foobar. Hopefully we can work this out. Thanks for your help, DannyBuoy! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*@DannyBuoy:*
 Works flawlessly! I am surprised, honestly. So now we can get 24/96 records bit perfect to the Mav, that's not bad. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Sadly we still have no solution for bit perfect 16/44.1..._

 

Hi Bear. I don't understand your statement. You say you are getting bit perfect to the Mav, then say you don't have a solution for bit perfect 16/44.1

 Excuse my ignorance, I an new to all this.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Bear. I don't understand your statement. You say you are getting bit perfect to the Mav, then say you don't have a solution for bit perfect 16/44.1

 Excuse my ignorance, I an new to all this._

 

I can imagine that it's a bit confusing... let me try to explain it with some screenshots. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








 Here you can see that the output format in foobar2k is fixed to 24bit. So if your record is a normal cd rip (16bit) it'll be converted to 24 bit! But your native 24bit record (some live tape or hi-def DVD rip) won't be touched because it already has the correct/needed bit depth. 
 Long story short: because of this every 24bit record won't be touched (= bit perfect) and every 16bit record will be converted (NOT bit perfect).





 Here you can see the resampler. Every record will be resampled to 96k. So again, if you have a hi-def 24/96 rip nothing will happen (read: bit perfect!).
 But if your record has only been sampled with 44.1k it'll be resampled/upsampled to 96k! (NOT bit perfect!)

 Hopefully it's a bit clearer now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Again, long story short: With those two settings you'll ONLY get 24/96 records bit perfect to your Mav, because you force foobar2k to convert/resample every record to 24/96.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can imagine that it's a bit confusing... let me try to explain it with some screenshots. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Here you can see that the output format in foobar2k is fixed to 24bit. So if your record is a normal cd rip (16bit) it'll be converted to 24 bit! But your native 24bit record (some live tape or hi-def DVD rip) won't be touched because it already has the correct/needed bit depth. 
 Long story short: because of this every 24bit record won't be touched (= bit perfect) and every 16bit record will be converted (NOT bit perfect).



 Here you can see the resampler. Every record will be resampled to 96k. So again, if you have a hi-def 24/96 rip nothing will happen (read: bit perfect!).
 But if your record has only been sampled with 44.1k it'll be resampled/upsampled to 96k! (NOT bit perfect!)

 Hopefully it's a bit clearer now... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Again, long story short: With those two settings you'll ONLY get 24/96 records bit perfect to your Mav, because you force foobar2k to convert/resample every record to 24/96.

 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

Doesn't matter much, just rather than being resampled twice, it is only resampled once. Doesn't the device itself automatically upsample? so you can never get true bit-perfect 16-bit <96k audio. Unsure of how it works, so feel free to explain if I am deathly wrong.

 Though I think he had trouble with Vista sound properties as well, where you set the sample rate of the device itself. Unsure of how it works though, can't really find a description of what "shared mode" is.


----------



## bearmann

It's right that the Mav uses an upsampling DAC. So yeah, as soon as the signal gets to the DAC it'll get upsampled and therefore isn't "bit perfect" anymore. But with every resampling you get errors so you definitely want to avoid every unnecessary resampling before the signal gets to the DAC.


----------



## devast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Doesn't matter much, just rather than being resampled twice, it is only resampled once. Doesn't the device itself automatically upsample?_

 

Upsampling and oversampling is not the same fyi. DACs usually do oversampling, but not upsampling.


----------



## DannyBuoy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bit my finger and ordered one, can't wait to try it out.



 Nice write up, looking forward to seeing your work. Would also like some of your wisdom being you are a more experienced developer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I would assume following your method might see some improvement in the audio stream considering it might only be re-sampled once in windows rather than once in windows (16/44.1k) then again in the device (24/92k). Just an uneducated assumption. Since any form of processing has the potential to corrupt the stream_

 

Thanks for the compliment. There are quite a few more details in what I have learned in playing around with Microsoft's newest implementation of the DirectX (DirectSound in this case) replacement called "Microsoft Universal Audio Architecture (UAA)" which is designed to simplify connecting the audio file to the device interface. 
 I believe that setting the USB device in an application such as J.River's Media Center to 24/96 it is helping to bypass the restriction imposed at the hardware level to 16/48 as Direct Sound in Vista or greater (2008 or Win7) the data stream may be able to send at 44.1,48, or 96 as required since we are bypassing the 16/48 limitation set through Control panel/Device Manager.
 I have some USB packet analyzer code that I am going to play with next that will help to confirm or reject that assumption and I will have time later this week to do this.
 As a concept you should start to think of the hardware layer as being a separate entity altogether from the software (device driver/filter/codec) level as MS has been pushing to separate the two once the divorce from KMixer took place in going from XP to Vista. The new specifications for the UAA design calls for up to 32 Bit resolution (up from 24 Bit) and ability to operate at 32 OR 64 Bit (helps with HD Audio with many streams).
 They have moved from the restrictions of having a device driver tied to a PCI or USB bus to an abstraction above this allowing XBox, Win, Maybe Zune, etc. to be utilized with the same code base.
 I will let all know what I find going across the USB DeviceID for the D1 with the 24/96 settings with a Redbook 16/44.1 file being played very soon.
 I am still thinking that it would help if I were to write an Audio Driver for Windows that a person would install if using Vista or Win7 and the D1 would be assigned to it upon audio stream initialization bypassing the WASAPI/ASIO/Direct Sound choice you would normally make in your media players and instead you would pick the D1 output instead.
 Sorry if this is not detailed enough for some. It would take quite a bit of writing to detail this at this time and I need to do the first steps to see if this is even achievable before investing in the detail. Right now this is just wild theories without evidence to back it up. But, I promise to share success or failure along the way, and give details as more is known.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *devast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Upsampling and oversampling is not the same fyi. DACs usually do oversampling, but not upsampling._

 

Thanks for the insight, i'll do some research to figure out the differences.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the compliment. There are quite a few more details in what I have learned in playing around with Microsoft's newest implementation of the DirectX (DirectSound in this case) replacement called "Microsoft Universal Audio Architecture (UAA)" which is designed to simplify connecting the audio file to the device interface. I believe that setting the USB device in an application such as J.River's Media Center to 24/96 it is helping to bypass the restriction imposed at the hardware level to 16/48 as Direct Sound in Vista or greater (2008 or Win7) the data stream may be able to send at 44.1,48, or 96 as required since we are bypassing the 16/48 limitation set through Control panel/Device Manager. I have some USB packet analyzer code that I am going to play with next that will help to confirm or reject that assumption and I will have time later this week to do this. As a concept you should start to think of the hardware layer as being a separate entity altogether from the software (device driver/filter/codec) level as MS has been pushing to separate the two once the divorce from KMixer took place in going from XP to Vista. The new specifications for the UAA design calls for up to 32 Bit resolution (up from 24 Bit) and ability to operate at 32 OR 64 Bit (helps with HD Audio with many streams). They have moved from the restrictions of having a device driver tied to a PCI or USB bus to an abstraction above this allowing XBox, Win, Maybe Zune, etc. to be utilized with the same code base. I will let all know what I find going across the USB DeviceID for the D1 with the 24/96 settings with a Redbook 16/44.1 file being played very soon. I am still thinking that it would help if I were to write an Audio Driver for Windows that a person would install if using Vista or Win7 and the D1 would be assigned to it upon audio stream initialization bypassing the WASAPI/ASIO/Direct Sound choice you would normally make in your media players and instead you would pick the D1 output instead. Sorry if this is not detailed enough for some. It would take quite a bit of writing to detail this at this time and I need to do the first steps to see if this is even achievable before investing in the detail. Right now this is just wild theories without evidence to back it up. But, I promise to share success or failure along the way, and give details as more is known._

 

Hmm but if Jriver is using Direct Sound wouldn't that cause it to be governed by the vista sound settings. Obviously your testing will conclude this but this has been my only real confusion with vista. It is not well documented imo(on a the user end at least).


----------



## DannyBuoy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the insight, i'll do some research to figure out the differences.



 Hmm but if Jriver is using Direct Sound wouldn't that cause it to be governed by the vista sound settings. Obviously your testing will conclude this but this has been my only real confusion with vista. It is not well documented imo(on a the user end at least)._

 

Direct Sound (the label) is just a legacy word. The technology behind that word has been in a growth mode for several years. Direct Sound has splintered off from DirectX. 
 While MS continues DirectX focusing it on gaming and graphics more and the branch of Direct Sound re-organized under the "Microsoft Media Foundation " Media Foundation Architecture (Windows) moniker. This new group which has its roots back as far as DirectX 8.0 was focused on HD Audio and Video and how to move the standard forward while making it easier to access filters, transforms, piplines, streams, and the like.

 That turned out to be an ambitious project and the team has been undergoing a further division so the SDK's and API's were seperated into smaller elements and in it's newest incarnation that I know of is the "Microsoft Universal Audio Architecture (UAA) initiative" Audio Device Technologies for Windows

 So the label "Direct Sound" you see in FooBar and J.River is just an old label for a deprecated technology and it is really just a hand off to the MMF/UAA interface (which you mention accurately by acknowledging that Vista is really the handler of the stream).
 Since this interface does not have a handle for us to interact with in our media players yet, it is wise (IMO) to use Direct Sound as the "gateway" to the interface and this is exactly why I thought I should write a device driver that would be user selectible and have it focused on what we as a community want it to do most which I believe is bit perfect, 2 channel, jitter free, 32 and 64 Bit OS compatible, cache and buffer adjustable, am I missing anything?


----------



## asianfi

Wow, is all I have to say about this. Running it through SPDIF straight from my pc and it sounds great. 

 Does anyone else notice an increase in bass with the NOS tube?


----------



## wheelsx45

I am really interested in this DAC/Amp, I am just nervous about the noise for my high sensitive denon 2000 headphones. I know you can adjust the gain, but I have never used a soldering iron in my life. Is this noise constant or does it go away once you play music?


----------



## asianfi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wheelsx45* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am really interested in this DAC/Amp, I am just nervous about the noise for my high sensitive denon 2000 headphones. I know you can adjust the gain, but I have never used a soldering iron in my life. Is this noise constant or does it go away once you play music?_

 

Im running these through my AD700s and K702s, and with the 700s I do notice the gain, but are practically non-existent once you're playing music - unless ur playing it very low.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Direct Sound (the label) is just a legacy word. The technology behind that word has been in a growth mode for several years. Direct Sound has splintered off from DirectX. 
 While MS continues DirectX focusing it on gaming and graphics more and the branch of Direct Sound re-organized under the "Microsoft Media Foundation " Media Foundation Architecture (Windows) moniker. This new group which has its roots back as far as DirectX 8.0 was focused on HD Audio and Video and how to move the standard forward while making it easier to access filters, transforms, piplines, streams, and the like.

 That turned out to be an ambitious project and the team has been undergoing a further division so the SDK's and API's were seperated into smaller elements and in it's newest incarnation that I know of is the "Microsoft Universal Audio Architecture (UAA) initiative" Audio Device Technologies for Windows

 So the label "Direct Sound" you see in FooBar and J.River is just an old label for a deprecated technology and it is really just a hand off to the MMF/UAA interface (which you mention accurately by acknowledging that Vista is really the handler of the stream).
 Since this interface does not have a handle for us to interact with in our media players yet, it is wise (IMO) to use Direct Sound as the "gateway" to the interface and this is exactly why I thought I should write a device driver that would be user selectible and have it focused on what we as a community want it to do most which I believe is bit perfect, 2 channel, jitter free, 32 and 64 Bit OS compatible, cache and buffer adjustable, am I missing anything?_

 

Pretty much hit it all, i'll check out those resources in more detail.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wheelsx45* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am really interested in this DAC/Amp, I am just nervous about the noise for my high sensitive denon 2000 headphones. I know you can adjust the gain, but I have never used a soldering iron in my life. Is this noise constant or does it go away once you play music?_

 

If it does bother you, you can wait as well. From what I can gather of recent discussion there might be a version(or perm tweak) which lowers gain.

 Personally I prefer the higher gain as this device allows for speakers which are more finicky. Some require a higher gain, much higher than headphones. This is more from experience than pure fact since the technology is not my strong point atm.


----------



## millerlitescott

I missed the DHL delivery today so I should have mine tomorrow. 

 Ryan as far as the volume gain tweaking is this something we can change on our own with some minor DIY or will it be another pot, or can you recommend another pot?

 Scott


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *millerlitescott* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I missed the DHL delivery today so I should have mine tomorrow. 

 Ryan as far as the volume gain tweaking is this something we can change on our own with some minor DIY or will it be another pot, or can you recommend another pot?

 Scott_

 

Ryan helped Bearmann with this:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...4/index38.html


----------



## millerlitescott

Thanks Spanky.


----------



## Remains

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wheelsx45* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am really interested in this DAC/Amp, I am just nervous about the noise for my high sensitive denon 2000 headphones. I know you can adjust the gain, but I have never used a soldering iron in my life. Is this noise constant or does it go away once you play music?_

 

I use the denon's with the maverick and I have no problem with the gain.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Remains* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would just like to say that with the 25ohm denon d2k's there is no gain whatsoever._


----------



## Bzer

Hi Everyone,

 I received my D1 w/ upgraded tube today. I've been using it for an hour so far. I currently have it hooked up my PC(Windows 7 64-bit) via usb. It drives my Sennheiser HD650 perfectly. I have the volume at 9 o'clock(6 to 7 clicks from off) and it's perfect listening volume. I gotta say, so far i've been really impressed with it. I'll try the tube out when I get some ICs.

 I also tried the D1 with a pair Grado HF2... a tad bright w/ the Grado for my taste, the D1 definately synergizes with HD650.

 PICS:


----------



## grokit

So on the bit-perfect thing... on my Mac Pro, when I go with an optical toslink cable out to the Maverick D1, which is called "Built-in Digital Output" in the Sound Preferences, I can select 16/44.1 output in my Mac's Audio Midi Setup utility. But when I select the "USB Audio" output for the D1, the output is set at 16/48 with no other choices available. Similar-length medium-quality cables were used.

 Not that I can hear much of a difference with my speakers, but first impressions aren't everything; in fact, the bit-perfect option is starting to sound more resolved already... no wait, that's the USB, d@mmit! Better put the headphones on and do some more research


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The other question I want to ask you guys is the volume control.

 I can make the volume control more "linear", means you will have bigger "range" to adjust volume from low to high. In my local head-fi community, people tend to like to have almost max volume at only 12 o'clock position, if you extend the max to further position, it will be considered that the unit is "under powered". However, from the feedback I've seen on here, people are like "more range" to adjust volume. Please let me know your opinion, it will help me to improve D1 in the future production 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Why not use a Linear pot instead of Log, use a linear with law faking resistor fitted between wiper & ground of each channel, this will give a cleaner & more acurate & usable pot than log..The resistor should be the value of the original log pot, but the linear pot value 10-20 times this value depending.Best pot & resistors you can find if you can.

ESP - A Better Volume Control


----------



## ninjikiran

so out of curiosity, about how long does DHL take 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am excited.


----------



## Suedehead

Does the volume control moves in incremental steps or does it turn smoothly? If it is incremental, are they large steps or relatively small to allow enough playing room to find the perfect listening volume?


----------



## Yamnick

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Suedehead* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does the volume control moves in incremental steps or does it turn smoothly? If it is incremental, are they large steps or relatively small to allow enough playing room to find the perfect listening volume?_

 

Incremental steps - for me it's easy to find perfect volume for the headphones and as a preamp.


----------



## Wsh

This isn't really a rightful comparison since it's between an unamped source vs an amped source. However I figured I'd put my two cents in, just in case someone was wondering how these affected the Beyers....

 My brother's Maverick came in yesterday so I went to his house and plugged my DT770's to test out how well it drives. 

 These btw are the 250-2005 model (notorious for being hard to drive).

 I had plans to buy an amp before, but budget reasons I had to put it up FS, BUT for the sake of testing I took em out of the box.

 Anyway, the only other time I've been able to test it is straight from a computer source right out of the sound card. The sound to me was great. I'm a big fan of bass and so the source fed that fine. In was overwhelming at times, but for the most part I enjoyed it for the type of music that I listen to (vocal trance, hip hop and smooth jazz).
 ....

 From the Maverick: Right away I was able to see a difference in how tight the bass got, but not in a bad way. It was more refined and tuned. The highs were definitely more prominent as before. And while I attribute a lot of this to the fact that it's amp'ed now, I was still very surprised at just how clear the Maverick was able to control it.

 I tested it with various tracks in both FLAC, MP3 and 256k stream off DI.FM Premium. The amp was strong and provided me with the sound I liked from Vocal Trance, Techno, Eurodance. If anyone here is familiar with that genre, they know that sometimes the female vocals can be somewhat overwhelming if using a crappy pair of headphones, however the Maverick/Beyer combo was spot on and the highs sounded great.

 The weakest part of the test came when I played Classical music or Solo Piano type music. Of course these are closed headphones so sound stage is more of the factor here. However, I found the sound very flat and unengaged. Hopefully someone with an open set of cans can provide a better experience with the classical genre and the Maverick.

 On the contrary though, it sounded amazing with Smooth Contemporary Jazz. The highs were just where I wanted them and the bass came in to compliment everything, as it should. I could pick up the snares and the high hats very distinctly. The guitars sounded amazing. Mids were a little recessed but they were definitely there.

 Sadly, I was unable to test it out with one of my all time favorite genre's which is rock. I listened to a KoRn track somewhere in there but it was more of a techno mix of Make Me Bad, but I would've really liked to have put in Metallica - Enter Sandman or even some heavy metal like Iron Maiden, lol.


 I'm highly considering the Maverick now if I end up keeping the Beyers. Mainly because it provided me with the sound that I liked from the music that I enjoy listening to. On top of that the unit is fairly small and compared to other amps, it's not tall or too big to move around.


 Anyway, enough of my rambling


----------



## millerlitescott

Got mine today and I love it, and I am only listening to it on the Accurian $15 amp and the Parts Express $25 cheep speakers they had on sale. Can't wait to hook it up to some better gear. 

 I am listening to it through my only headphones which are the JVC Marshmellows and it sounds pretty good.

 Scott


----------



## Yamnick

I agree with You - this box make a real magic even with better equipment - look in my profile...

 When I plug D1 into my audio system, I don't expected too much... I'm really satisfied now, sounds much better than originally - what was good, but now... 
 Now music sounds like from really higher grade pieces... Better synergy, more opened sound stage, definitely more details, vocals are much bright and clean, especially women's - tube works pretty cool ! When I listen CD from the Depeche Mode ex-year tour "Sound Of The Universe" it's like in arena, like live ... 
 In one world - all system is now more musically, much more 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 About headphones - with my Goldring's DR150 sounds impressive, finally I have really pleasure from headphones listening - and impression about music is comparable to my basic system & loudspeakers + now I hear much more details in almost every track.

 And last but not least - OMG - finally I can heard all my MP3, FLAC and any other digi track without screw face and blood from the ears.

 For me - it's most valuable audio upgrade for the main system/computer/headphones for that money


----------



## djnagle

I received mine today and have been running it for the last three hours. I am also very tired and not in the mood to write a review. I will do that tomorrow. As a primer though, I will say [size=x-large]"just go head and buy it!!!"[/size]

 Until then.


----------



## DannyBuoy

I have used the D1 now for about 150 hours and when not at work listening, I leave a 300 song playlist going in J.River and let it play through the night.

 The DAC has matured a bit and some of the initial simblance I was experiencing has gone away. I have the D1 with tube upgrade.

 I have been running it at 24/96 with Direct Sound and it has decoded everything through USB without any trouble now.

 I used my UE TF10's the other day and although I could not turn it past 9'oclock the sound quality was very good (compared to my Cowon D2+ and EF2.
 Today I spent a few hours with a friend's AKG 702's plugged in and they were driven very nicely. A little too harsh on rock/pop, but Phillip Glass (Glassworks) was awesome.

 I find that my Denon D5000's sound best to me when I use the JMoney pads. As a matter of fact that combo (D5000's, Jmoney, D1) is my favorite now as it is a happy medium of all that I enjoy. The stock Denon pads with the D1 just don't compare (have to run, otherwise I would get into particulars on difference).

 Just wanted to give some feedback. I am enjoying the D1 quite a bit now.


----------



## _Spanky_

I'm at probably 50-60 hours on the unit as a whole and 35-45 hours on the LT1364 and LM4562 and I have to say this unit is really blossoming. With my previous amp I used to add a bass boost in the Creative Control Panel so it suited my liking. I haven't done that with this (more like can't) since I'm using the SPDIF out of my Creative card. Despite that, the bass is really near my preference level and it's so clean and crisp, I haven't heard any distortion. It's really... just... nice 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The mids have come out a bit and the highs are really toned down but still very clear for the symbols and hi-hats. Before this unit I never really experienced burn-in but I definitely have with the Maverick and I'm still excited about how much more it will change.

 Really, anyone that's on the fence about this unit should get it. If it's one of your first purchases, you won't be disappointed.


----------



## tomjoneslookslike

My first actual post... so YEAH me... Hello all of you... Ok, so I'm confused. What's the general consensus on the best way to connect a macbook to the D1? I thought about optical out with an Optocoupler MKII into a CryoParts converter box and then a DH Labs D-75 digital cable from the box to the D1. Or, should I just run usb out of the macbook to usb in of the D1? All I listen to are 16/44.1 flac rips from cds. I'd like to achieve bit perfect (I think). All this talk about upsampling and resampling, I can't find up, so any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm a student of audio currently flunking!!!


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tomjoneslookslike* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My first actual post... so YEAH me... Hello all of you... Ok, so I'm confused. What's the general consensus on the best way to connect a macbook to the D1? I thought about optical out with an Optocoupler MKII into a CryoParts converter box and then a DH Labs D-75 digital cable from the box to the D1. Or, should I just run usb out of the macbook to usb in of the D1? All I listen to are 16/44.1 flac rips from cds. I'd like to achieve bit perfect (I think). All this talk about upsampling and resampling, I can't find up, so any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm a student of audio currently flunking!!!_

 

If you want bit-perfect I think you should stay away from USB. I don't think anyone has gotten 16-Bit 44Khz bit-perfect with the USB in the D1 yet... I could be wrong.


----------



## ninjikiran

technically SPdif(Bit-Matched) should be bit-perfect to any external DAC or receiver. Or it is supposed to be, some people complain it can still be noisy.


----------



## xcluded

Hi everyone , i got my set today. Lovely machine that is.

 I have one newbie question though. If i use optical from my computer sound card and connect to the D1 , am i doing double amping ? Is it a bit perfect situation ?

 does anyone's D1 becomes very warm after some time of usage ?

 Thanks


----------



## Apollonius of Perga

When you connect your computer to the D1 via an optical connection, your computer's sound card will be by-passed. The music file on your computer goes to the D1 and is converted from a digital file to an analog signal there (and amplified in the process).

 Other comments here indicate that an optical connection is bit perfect.

 The warmth of the unit comes from the tube. It's normal.


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Apollonius of Perga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When you connect your computer to the D1 via an optical connection, your computer's sound card will be by-passed. The music file on your computer goes to the D1 and is converted from a digital file to an analog signal there (and amplified in the process).

 Other comments here indicate that an optical connection is bit perfect.

 The warmth of the unit comes from the tube. It's normal._

 

Thanks Apollonius !

 This D1 is pretty amazing for the price. The price/performance ratio is great.


----------



## dacseeker

About the volume question.

 I prefer to have the max at 3 o'clock.

 I am strongly interested in the solution presented by ELP FAN, that is use a linear with two more resistors. I have seen this solution in doy projects and think it is a good one. And if we can avoid the knob with clicks, even better !

 One small point about cosmetics is to have a led with much more reduced light.


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dacseeker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_About the volume question.

 I prefer to have the max at 3 o'clock.

 I am strongly interested in the solution presented by ELP FAN, that is use a linear with two more resistors. I have seen this solution in doy projects and think it is a good one. And if we can avoid the knob with clicks, even better !
_

 

The law faking buisness is there because Linear pots have no real control at low volume on their own..As you have additional restors in the signal path it's important to use the very best resistors you can get... Vishay 'VSR-J' bulk foils or minimum Holco metal film..Goes without saying the best pots, i've used Sfernice PII VYN metal film pots for years.but you'll have to check the pin layout size & value availability, they used to have a great variation in dual lins for the Sfernice.


----------



## ninjikiran

I actually like clicking volume, adds a level of tactile feel. Also lets you more deliberately adjust the volume rather than randomly tuning.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Apollonius of Perga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When you connect your computer to the D1 via an optical connection, your computer's sound card will be by-passed. The music file on your computer goes to the D1 and is converted from a digital file to an analog signal there (and amplified in the process).

 Other comments here indicate that an optical connection is bit perfect.

 The warmth of the unit comes from the tube. It's normal._

 

Depends on the unit, on the creative cards through spdif the signal is slightly amplified and some kind of processing is applied. Only in audio creation mode you can enabled "bit matched" playback which seems to disable ALL enhancements.


----------



## ninjikiran

Double post because I am a looser


----------



## djnagle

I got mine Wednesday. DHL sent it from Cincinnati to Grand Rapids when it should have been sent to Detroit, so that added a day. No fault of Mav.

 My first impression is that is very heavy for its size and, for its size, is built like a tank. It is truly plug and play. Stuck it in my system (hooked up to my MS with USB) and hit play on my music server. The look and feel of the D1 is outstanding and looks like a much more pricy unit. By the way, I like the click of the volume pot. It is wobbly but I saw that the feet still had little rings from the molding process and a little 220 took that off in an instant…..no more wobble. Very elegant looking piece of gear.

 I am using this as a DAC/tube pre for my main system not a headphone amp.
 My first impression from a sound standpoint, was “send it back” 

 I have an extremely revealing system and the D1 sounded terrible. Harsh, shrill, thin, lifeless, no bass, exaggerated highs. I had to turn it off. But I know that some things need to burn in, so I left it going for two days with the volume set to 1. At that setting I could barely hear it. So after two days of burning in, I sat down last night and started listening to is seriously. I got the upgraded tube just so you know. 

 OK, it sounds fantastic. The highs are extremely detailed with out piercing my ears. I can hear several layers of music and background that I’ve never heard before. The mids are very smooth with great openness and presence. The D1 handles the dynamics very well so when a singer is really belting it out, it does not seem over driven or ringy in the ear. There is great timber in the mids as well. The vocals sound just like they are supposed to sound. And like the highs, there is an incredible amount of detail. The bass is supper tight and I can hear the distinction between every note. My system is flat down to 18 Hz and I can tell the difference between 18 and 25 Hz. The midbass slams and kick like a mule. It really changed my bass tremendously…..I am very happy about that as I am on old washed up Bass player.

 The imaging really came into focus as well. I can tell when the vocals are dead center or, in the case of CR&N, in the center, just left of center and just right of center. I can hear music 6” to the inside of my speakers and 2’ outside my speakers and everywhere in between. There is more vertical imaging as well so the hieght of the instument or vocals vary with the recording. 

 The soundstage is deeper than it ever has been. I played a Johnny Cash CD last night. It was like he was sitting 5’ in front of me and my speakers are 15’ way from me.

 I have the Windmill Getter tube and the WE tube but will hold off on rolling them for a while until 1. The D1 is well broke in and 2. I really get use to the sound or it so I can identify the difference. 

 I do have a pair of Grado SR60 but only use them on the road on my laptop. I will give them a listen, but I don’t think I can give an accurate eval of those as I don’t have any experience with any other headphones.

 My system consists of:

* Speakers*

 * JBL 4530 Scoops with JBL 2225 woofers
 * StereoLab 400hz tractrix horn with JBL 2441 compression drivers with Radian diaphragms
 * Big Heil Air Motion Tweeters.
 * 2 subwoofers with Martin Logan 12” drivers and BASH 300s plate amps

*Amps*

 * Decware Zen amp for the mid horns
 * Kegger PP EL34 for the tweeters
 * Adcom 555 for the woofers

*Source*

 * HP computer with 1.5TB hard drive for music only
 * Custom TT with Hagarman Octal Cornet Phono Pre.

 I tri-amp through a Pioneer 3 way active crossover.


----------



## ninjikiran

Arg mines is probably still in Chinese customs over the weekend. 

 @Djnagle You might have to burn in again with the headphones. They are two seperate paths. More an assumption though.


----------



## Apollonius of Perga

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I actually like clicking volume, adds a level of tactile feel. Also lets you more deliberately adjust the volume rather than randomly tuning.



 Depends on the unit, on the creative cards through spdif the signal is slightly amplified and some kind of processing is applied. Only in audio creation mode you can enabled "bit matched" playback which seems to disable ALL enhancements._

 

Setting aside the question of whether things are "bit matched," I don't get the thing about a digital signal being slightly amplified. Even if it is, its job is to relay information as 1's and 0's. Whether amplified or not, it has to be changed into an analog signal in the DAC, and that signal and its properties will let the speakers turn it into sounds. Would an amplified digital stream result in a louder sound? I doubt it, but this is not really something I know a lot about.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Apollonius of Perga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Setting aside the question of whether things are "bit matched," I don't get the thing about a digital signal being slightly amplified. Even if it is, its job is to relay information as 1's and 0's. Whether amplified or not, it has to be changed into an analog signal in the DAC, and that signal and its properties will let the speakers turn it into sounds. Would an amplified digital stream result in a louder sound? I doubt it, but this is not really something I know a lot about._

 

I don't know what goes on but without Bit-Matched playback the sound is louder and I am pretty sure there is some effect going on (with crystalizers and everything of turns off)

 Remember 1001 != 1101. Any change will corrupt the original bit stream, whether this has a large impact on resulting sound quality or not is debatable. I don't notice much of a difference besides loudness but its not Bit-Perfect. Essentially, no audio is bit perfect far as I can analyze, since changing the volume creates a new output but you want to try and keep any changes to a minimum until it hits its final destination(in this case the maverick dac). Even there it changes, hence OPamps color or equalize the stream.

 Sort of like a CRC check, even 1 extra word or line of code will change it. It will be a new file/program in entirety. Or adding a black pixel to a huge bitmap image, the unchanged version will look the same but somewhere there is that extra black pixel hiding meaning they are not perfectly identical.

 I am sure someone could explain in better detail, just making assumptions to how these devices work.


----------



## vkvedam

Outstanding impressions you've got there djnagle. Thanks a lot for sharing.


----------



## xcluded

Will it void warranty if the opamp is changed ?

 any significant improvement(from stock) from doing so ?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Will it void warranty if the opamp is changed ?

 any significant improvement(from stock) from doing so ?





_

 

I asked Ryan and he said no so I went ahead and changed mine. I believe there is a large difference.

 Check my post:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...ml#post6310231

 After burn-in, and I don't know if the rest of the unit burning in contributes to this or not but the unit is MUCH better than it was when I first hooked it up. Far less shrill and peircing highs, it's not calmed down a bit and more detailed. The bass has also come out more and is crisp. I think it's a worthwhile upgrade.


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I asked Ryan and he said no so I went ahead and changed mine. I believe there is a large difference.

 Check my post:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...ml#post6310231

 After burn-in, and I don't know if the rest of the unit burning in contributes to this or not but the unit is MUCH better than it was when I first hooked it up. Far less shrill and peircing highs, it's not calmed down a bit and more detailed. The bass has also come out more and is crisp. I think it's a worthwhile upgrade._

 

Hi spanky , i did a search on both opamps. Is it these following model ?

 LT1364 - Dual and Quad 70MHz, 1000V/µs Op Amps
Linear Technology - LT1364 - Dual and Quad 70MHz, 1000V/µs Op Amps

 LM4562 - There are quite a few models in there ,but not sure which is correct
LM4562 - Dual High Performance, High Fidelity Audio Operational Amplifier


----------



## _Spanky_

Looks like them... Here's the exact part numbers I'm using in case you get confused like I did 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 LT1364CN8#PBF
 LM4562NA/NOPB

 Enjoy


----------



## dacseeker

Did you check the dc offset for these two opamps ?

 Why did you choose the LT for the ss out since it is not specific for audio and why not the LM which seems to be very good and specific for audio ?

 Tahnks for your information.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dacseeker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you check the dc offset for these two opamps ?

 Why did you choose the LT for the ss out since it is not specific for audio and why not the LM which seems to be very good and specific for audio ?

 Tahnks for your information._

 

I'll admit I have no idea what DC offset is or how to test it. I'm one of those people that knows a bit about electronics but really have no idea about specifications and whatnot. I read that DC offset kills headphones so I didn't dare plug in my DT770's first, I used a crappy headset I have laying around to test and burn-in the unit.

 If DC offset can be measured with a multimeter, tell me how and I'll gladly do it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Oh, the opamp combo I chose was highly recommended for the Zero DAC/Amp which is what I originally got these opamps for... then I found the Maverick 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 From what I can tell, the LF353 is a generic opamp as well.


----------



## ninjikiran

I just figured it out, I asked around and still waiting for response but its all become clear to me.

 W/o DDLive the spdif works. If you don't want the PC/Sound card to do any sampling at all you enabled Bit-Matched playback. Under Wasapi in vista sound properties it completely skips it, to prove it it looks like there is no sound coming from it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. With direct sound it still touches these settings.

 I set my sound card to 44.1k, and foobar to 16-bit.

 A seperate solution would be to resample in Foobar @ 96k(setting the card to 96k in AC menu) and 24-bit.

 This is with the digital out. Spdif out is automatically 2-speaker so you don't need to screw around with speaker settings.

 The digital out seems more versatile than the USB output, without going through any processing on the card itself or in vista. At the same time I still don't notice much difference but it removes a variable from the equation all together. 

 This is with the X-Fi prelude, but should be the same with all creative cards.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_W/o DDLive the spdif works. If you don't want the PC/Sound card to do any sampling at all you enabled Bit-Matched playback. Under Wasapi in vista sound properties it completely skips it, to prove it it looks like there is no sound coming from it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

That's what I've been doing since I got my Maverick. I use Game Mode though since using WASAPI in Foobar results in Windows seeing no sound in the mixer so I think I'm all good there. It just kinda sucks that EAX and whatnot isn't supported over SPDIF on my card, at least without a Dolby receiver from what I understand.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's what I've been doing since I got my Maverick. I use Game Mode though since using WASAPI in Foobar results in Windows seeing no sound in the mixer so I think I'm all good there. It just kinda sucks that EAX and whatnot isn't supported over SPDIF on my card, at least without a Dolby receiver from what I understand._

 

I dunno I have been trying to figure this out for an entire weekend but couldn't find a good response. Kind of put together a few responses and a little sense, but now it kind of all came rushing to me and made sense.

 With me I jsut have to enable DDLive when I want to game, I am going to still be using my Astro Mixamp for Dolby Headphone which imo sounds more refined than CMSS. I used to use CMSS for a while in my games until I upgraded to that unit.


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea, it's a super pain and VERY undocumented by Creative. I've spent many days trying to look around and talk to Creative about EAX over SPDIF and got both yes and no answers... Now that I have it for myself, it seems like 0 effects are sent over SPDIF, like it's a regular basic sound card which is fine I guess. Thankfully the Maverick supports analog inputs


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yea, it's a super pain and VERY undocumented by Creative. I've spent many days trying to look around and talk to Creative about EAX over SPDIF and got both yes and no answers... Now that I have it for myself, it seems like 0 effects are sent over SPDIF, like it's a regular basic sound card which is fine I guess. Thankfully the Maverick supports analog inputs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

DDLive lets you use EAX/OpenAL over spdif. I don't know if you can use CMSS-3d/Headphone with it enabled though.

 It is TERRIBLY documented. I read through my manual 3 times and scoured the auzentech knowledge base which has decent info but is no real help.

 I sent a support ticket earlier asking them a whole mess of questions I just answered now myself. They say something about bit-perfect but not actually how to make a pure bit-perfect transport. Which I guess is kind of counter-intuitive to having the sound card. But I got a good 2 years of use out of it so it doesn't bother me to use it as transport.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_DDLive lets you use EAX/OpenAL over spdif._

 

Don't you gotta pay for that and isn't it only for Dolby or THX or whatever receivers?


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If DC offset can be measured with a multimeter, tell me how and I'll gladly do it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Take your DMM and set it to "mV" (milli Volts). Just power on your Maverick and wait for ~15 minutes, no plugged-in sources, no headphones, nothing! Zero Volume!

 Now take your DMM and measure the voltage between GND and LEFT CHANNEL. You can find three pins on the right side of your headphone plug - that's where you want to measure the voltage. Do the same for GND and RIGHT CHANNEL.

 You should measure just a few milli Volts in both cases. If you have more than 100mV you should consider switching back your opamps definitely.

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Take your DMM and set it to "mV" (milli Volts). Just power on your Maverick and wait for ~15 minutes, no plugged-in sources, no headphones, nothing! Zero Volume!

 Now take your DMM and measure the voltage between GND and LEFT CHANNEL. You can find three pins on the right side of your headphone plug - that's where you want to measure the voltage. Do the same for GND and RIGHT CHANNEL.

 You should measure just a few milli Volts in both cases. If you have more than 100mV you should consider switching back your opamps definitely.

 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

Ah... alright 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Do I have to open the unit up or can I get a spare plug and measure off of that?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't you gotta pay for that and isn't it only for Dolby or THX or whatever receivers?_

 

I dunno, my card's drivers automatically come with DDLive. You might be right about having to pay for it. I also have DTS Connect.

 While my mixamp can mix a Dolby signal when the DH button is active it is far from a Dolby Digital reciever. DDLive seems to work perfectly fine regardless of this without DH enabled. You can use DDLive in game mode as well so it probably supports some of those features like CMSS.

 All I know is the biggest difference would be forcing FFDaudio to output to spdif. The level of quality has improved there the most. I couldn't do that before.

 Now I am more excited to finally get my maverick.


----------



## _Spanky_

Maybe one of these days I'll try out DDLive...

 As for the DC offset... I'm pretty sure I'm doing it right. I have my multimeter set at 200m on DC volts and the black lead connected to ground and the red lead to either channel. On the right channel, I'm getting a negative number that's dropping... It was around -186 and is now at -167 and still dropping... or is that rising? The left channel is steady at -186. Help!

 Ok, from what I read, different values is ok but why is one dropping? How long would it take to fry headphones? I've been using my DT770's and crappy headset with the opamps for many hours without problem.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe one of these days I'll try out DDLive...

 As for the DC offset... I'm pretty sure I'm doing it right. I have my multimeter set at 200m on DC volts and the black lead connected to ground and the red lead to either channel. On the right channel, I'm getting a negative number that's dropping... It was around -186 and is now at -167 and still dropping... or is that rising? The left channel is steady at -186. Help!_

 

yea its only like $5 anyway, so not much financial loss if you don't like it. I just googled it up, apparently only Auzentech offers it free. I don't know how updated the one creative sells is compared to the ones included free in Auzentech driver updates.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As for the DC offset... I'm pretty sure I'm doing it right. I have my multimeter set at 200m on DC volts and the black lead connected to ground and the red lead to either channel. On the right channel, I'm getting a negative number that's dropping... It was around -186 and is now at -167 and still dropping... or is that rising? The left channel is steady at -186. Help!

 Ok, from what I read, different values is ok but why is one dropping? How long would it take to fry headphones? I've been using my DT770's and crappy headset with the opamps for many hours without problem._

 

Different values are common and no problem. The negative voltages are caused by a wrong DMM wire, I guess. That's no problem, too.

 But ~180mV DC offset are definitely a problem! I have no hard facts and no (long time) experience with DC offset in headamps, but AFAIR >100mV DC offset, over a long time, can damage/alter your phones. 180mV are definitely to high!

 regards.
 bearmann


----------



## _Spanky_

I know I have it connected properly so unless the 1/4" to 1/8" adapter or the 1/4" plug I'm using is cross wired, I don't understand why it's negative.

 Remember I said it was dropping/rising? The right channel is at -88 and the left is at -189 now although the last half hour or so I've been using the DAC and tube out for my speakers.

 Is the DC offset just caused by the headphone opamp or would the DAC opamp have an effect?

 Maybe it's time I look into the HDAM's =\


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is the DC offset just caused by the headphone opamp or would the DAC opamp have an effect?_

 

It's just the headphone amp. And open the case and try to measure the voltage directly on the three pins on the left side of the headphone jack.

 regards.
 bearmann


----------



## DannagE

Has anyone else noticed that you can hear it switching inside when you go from 41KHz to 44Khz to 96KHz? I can hear it when doing it with audio input @ OPTICAL.

 Should be able to make it do this on USB too, but I can't :/

 Sound is better for me when using the optical connection than the USB.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannagE* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone else noticed that you can hear it switching inside when you go from 41KHz to 44Khz to 96KHz? I can hear it when doing it with audio input @ OPTICAL._

 

Yup, mine does that.


----------



## ninjikiran

USB is limited to a single sample rate, no matter what the files sample rate is. You will always be sending this out to the maverick. Unless you can set windows sound settings to send anything higher via USB. (Also constant 16-bit)

 Optical out can be variable to the maverick. (Or Bit-Perfect). As in you can send out any sample rate up to 96k, and you can send either 16-bit or 24-bit.


----------



## _Spanky_

I'm beginning to wonder if I have a defect in my unit. Both on the LF353 and LM4562 I get about 40mv on the right channel and around 185mv on the left channel. I don't know electronics enough to even speculate... I'm going to send this post to Ryan.


----------



## xcluded

@ spanky & bear :

 is there any other opamps that we can upgrade without fearing of the dc offset ?

 the stock unit still got that high shrills at times....i wonder if a long burn in may reduce it.


----------



## _Spanky_

xcluded, I think you're safe with my combo of the LT1364 and LM4562 since I get acceptable readings on the right channel but if I were you, I would definitely measure it if you can.

 OH OH OH and!!!!!!!
 I found out that the Audio-GD HDAM will not fit inside the Maverick. Simply a lack of space. I mocked up a cardboard box roughly the size of the HDAM and there wasn't a spot for it to sit that would allow the lid to close. However, I'm tempted to order anyway and disassemble the extension leads to go through the vent holes then the HDAM's would sit on top of the Maverick, perhaps in their own little box. This would keep the warranty intact as well


----------



## ninjikiran

I might have to drag out my.hardly used meter and test when I get mine. Don't want to damage my headphones. If you get the same readout in default config


----------



## sp70

That is an excellent idea _Spanky_ I hope that could be the end all mod for the Maverick. I wonder what the DC would be then. 

 Are you certain that your readings of the LT1364 and LM4562 are safe for use on this unit? I would be disappointed to hear of anyone damaging their 'phones because of it.


----------



## _Spanky_

Thanks sp70 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I hope I can be the first to do it and perhaps pave the way!

 The right channel showed readings under 40mv... I think there might be something wrong with my unit to show over 180mv on the other channel. I sent Ryan a e-mail and we'll see what he says about my unit. I don't recall bearmann getting un-even offset on the channels so I think it's just my unit and if that's the case the LM4562 is safe but don't hold me liable.


----------



## brod

Just want to say that the refund procedure for returning a D1 was very quick and painless for me. Was impressed with the speed and quality of support by Ryan.


----------



## Wsh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brod* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just want to say that the refund procedure for returning a D1 was very quick and painless for me. Was impressed with the speed and quality of support by Ryan._

 

Why did you return it?


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks sp70 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I hope I can be the first to do it and perhaps pave the way!

 The right channel showed readings under 40mv... I think there might be something wrong with my unit to show over 180mv on the other channel. I sent Ryan a e-mail and we'll see what he says about my unit. I don't recall bearmann getting un-even offset on the channels so I think it's just my unit and if that's the case the LM4562 is safe but don't hold me liable._

 

bearmann changed his opamps as well ? or he left it as default ?


----------



## _Spanky_

Xcluded, yea he did. I think he tried a similar one to the LM4562. It was a couple pages back...

 Anyway, after opening and testing my unit a bit, I've come back with mixed feelings but now I see no problem. I'm thinking it's my multimeter. The last 2 tests I did were with 2 different opamps and I was under 10mv for both of them on both channels. I've almost had this for a week and if there were serious problems, my headphones would have already been melted or fried (both pair that I've used on it). Ryan was very nice and explained some things to me that made sense and combined with my last 2 tests, have put my mind at ease.

 I also went over my cardboard mock-up of the HDAM and realized I missed something critical... the thickness of the cardboard. Now I think a person might be able to fit 1 or 2 HDAM's BARELY in the Maverick. I wouldn't count on it though, since you would at least have to wrap them in electrical tape to prevent them from shorting against the case. The 2 locations I'm looking at are between the transformer and the PCB then again around the headphone opamp socket. Sometime I plan to try them out and if it doesn't fit then I'll run the wires through the vent slots into a separate case that I'm already mocking up


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Xcluded, yea he did. I think he tried a similar one to the LM4562. It was a couple pages back...

 Anyway, after opening and testing my unit a bit, I've come back with mixed feelings but now I see no problem. I'm thinking it's my multimeter. The last 2 tests I did were with 2 different opamps and I was under 10mv for both of them on both channels. I've almost had this for a week and if there were serious problems, my headphones would have already been melted or fried (both pair that I've used on it). Ryan was very nice and explained some things to me that made sense and combined with my last 2 tests, have put my mind at ease.

 I also went over my cardboard mock-up of the HDAM and realized I missed something critical... the thickness of the cardboard. Now I think a person might be able to fit 1 or 2 HDAM's BARELY in the Maverick. I wouldn't count on it though, since you would at least have to wrap them in electrical tape to prevent them from shorting against the case. The 2 locations I'm looking at are between the transformer and the PCB then again around the headphone opamp socket. Sometime I plan to try them out and if it doesn't fit then I'll run the wires through the vent slots into a separate case that I'm already mocking up 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks spanky once again. It's been ages since i used my multimeter. Hopefully i will get it right when i test it in a few days time.


----------



## _Spanky_

No problem. This is all a learning process for me as well and I want to spread the help/advice/knowledge that I receive.


----------



## Legis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Xcluded, yea he did. I think he tried a similar one to the LM4562. It was a couple pages back...

 Anyway, after opening and testing my unit a bit, I've come back with mixed feelings but now I see no problem. I'm thinking it's my multimeter. The last 2 tests I did were with 2 different opamps and I was under 10mv for both of them on both channels. I've almost had this for a week and if there were serious problems, my headphones would have already been melted or fried (both pair that I've used on it). Ryan was very nice and explained some things to me that made sense and combined with my last 2 tests, have put my mind at ease._

 

What Ryan said to you? Did you measure under 10mv also with LM4562? What DMM do you use? I sampled five of LM4562s yesterday after I had ordered Mavaudio D1 from Ryan but now I'm not sure if I can use them.

 Could the variance rise from high tolerance of capasitors in the output of DAC and op-amps? I thought that if there were capasitors at the output of the DAC an opamp, there would be no DC offset? Can somebody locate these output buffer capasitors to see what's going on with them?

 DC offset can also be controlled with resistors: http://www.national.com/an/AN/AN-31.pdf


----------



## _Spanky_

Ryan mentioned that many multimeters don't have good ability to accurately measure millivolts. This seems to be true as mine jumps all over the place with nothing connected. He said that in R&D they use much higher precision tools to make sure everything is operating properly. 

 He also said that he's had no reports of any unit damaging headphones. He told me that having a 140mv difference between the channels would produce significant higher noise in one channel and I never noticed that. 

 I don't know what was going on... I'm baffled by it really. Both the LF353 and LM4562 measured actually 11mv or less on either opamp and either channel. In some cases it went down to 1mv.

 The fact is that I've been using the LM4562 for over 4 days now with every night burning in using my cheap headset. If something were seriously wrong, I would imagine I would have a broken piece of equipment.


----------



## Legis

Ok, that's good to hear. I don't think there is any design flaw in the D1.


----------



## xcluded

Anyone using special audio type of power cable or using the default cable ?

 Any advantages by using the special cable ?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone using special audio type of power cable or using the default cable ?

 Any advantages by using the special cable ?




_

 

Whacha mean? You mean the power plug for the actual device?


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whacha mean? You mean the power plug for the actual device?_

 

ya. the power plug cable for the D1.

 because when i auditioned this unit back at a shop , they have this interesting power cable.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ya. the power plug cable for the D1.

 because when i auditioned this unit back at a shop , they have this interesting power cable.




_

 

Ask the grognards and they will tell you absolutely. But in the real world, no. I don't think buying expensive power cables are going to make it any better unless you can hear any interference if its not properly grounded. Ferrite cores seem to be a cheap way to ensure no strange interference. Also keeping it away from noisy devices like computer monitors or devices with magnets like speakers would probably be good practice.


----------



## Legis

I see the power cable question the way that if you use some kind of a power filter it's recommended to use also a shielded power cable after the filter so EMI and RFI can't get into the filtered power between filter and equipmment. Cables thickness should be greater with powerful PA-amplifiers and power amplifiers in general than with preamps and other equipment that needs less power. 

 In home use 3x1,5mm2 cable is at least adequate. If you are not going to change all the cable that runs inside the walls, you won't get any benefits from using s ultra thick cable at the last 1-1,5 meter of the power line.

 Best way to make a good shielded cable is DIY, commercial cables usually cost like they are made of gold.


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Legis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IBest way to make a good shielded cable is DIY, commercial cables usually cost like they are made of gold._

 

Do you have a link to a good DIY thread on this??


----------



## Legis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have a link to a good DIY thread on this??_

 

Actually I don't, at least not in a language you would understand 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. But all you need is a quality cable and right plugs for each end. The braided shield should be connected to ground connector only at the end that is inserted to the wall socket. This way all the emi and rfi that hits the braid are sucked to the "wall", not to the equipment. Sorry for ot.


----------



## Legis

By the way, has anybody measured the THD%, noise level etc. of the Mavaudio D1 with Rightmark audio analyzer or similar? It is done just by connection the D1 in the middle of the signal path. Soundcards output (A or D) -->Tube Magic --> soundcard's input.

 I saw one measurement somewhere in the thread but it was done in 16bit/44,1kHz mode I think. Could somebody test their D1 with digital in (24/48 and 24/96) and also with analog in.

 I will measure mine when it arrives, I have E-mu 0404 PCI soundcard. The only problem with this particular e-mu is that recording does not work properly in the Win 7 all the time.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ya. the power plug cable for the D1.

 because when i auditioned this unit back at a shop , they have this interesting power cable.





_

 

All power cables are the same. The stock is no better than any other cable. However, I do like the Iron Lung Jellyfish ($20 USD) for flexibility and looks.


----------



## MartinV56

Replace the OPA LF353N 


Op-Amp review page


----------



## _Spanky_

I figure I'd chime in about the power cable. For now, I just took a regular power cable I had on hand, cut it, then looped it around a ferrite ring a couple times then soldered it back together. It works and if nothing else, it raised my soldering and heatshrinking skills a pinch 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I do have a medical grade isolation transformer on the way though. I've never used one but it should be an interesting experience. They were cheap on eBay ($30 for 2) and they should put out enough power to run the D1.

 Down the road when I have plentiful amounts of cash, I plan to re-wire the isolation transformer since the cable length is funky for my setup and I don't know if it uses shielded or not. Here's a link for a "cheap" DIY cord:
DIY Belden 83803 Mains Power Cable

 I'll definitely report back if the isolation transformer does any good to the D1.


----------



## millerlitescott

I turned mine on after I got home from work and i got a static sound. I am guessing it was because the tube was not warmed up. I waited a few minutes and turned on my amp and it was fine. Does that sound like what others experience?


----------



## sp70

Well i've got around ~200 hours on my unit now and the i've really felt that the highs have not settled down enough for my tastes. It prevents me from turning the volume up as loud as i'd like. Im going to try OPAMP rolling in the near future, but thus far its just a bit disappointing as to how little difference burn in past ~10 hours has changed this. 

 Lastly, after all these hours the main volume pot has gotten "sticky" in the lower ranges. I often fiddle with it (due to not being able to handle the sometimes blistering highs) but i'd not excpect there to be such a tactile difference between moving the volume pot at lower ranges and higher ranges noticed when my unit was turned off. Just an interesting phenomena, any idea why this might be?


----------



## ovrclkd

Has anyone received confirmation on their order first? I paypal-ed on the 14th and haven't heard from Maverick Audio. I also can't log into the site although I'm registered?


----------



## _Spanky_

Personally, I was extremely impatient and kept harassing Ryan to see if he shipped it yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I don't know if he sends you a confirmation email or not. He was fast with getting mine out even though it was around the holidays.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ovrclkd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone received confirmation on their order first? I paypal-ed on the 14th and haven't heard from Maverick Audio. I also can't log into the site although I'm registered?_

 

I think your shipping confirmation has been sent a few days ago, however, the email get "filtered" by your ISP. I've just used gmail to send you the tracking code. Let me know if you still didn't get it.


----------



## Legis

I just ordered some Russian 6N3Ps and 5670 Raytheon tubes. Hope that Mavaudio is able to ship my D1 soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I opted to get my piece from new patch that is going to be in stock in Thursday according to Ryan. In new patch Mavaudio has reduced the head phone amp's gain from the original (unsure how much), otherwise it is the same.


----------



## MartinV56

IMHO The best VALVES for the Maverick, XS, GF, Dac

 WE396A (D getter)
 WE2C51 (D getter)
 Bendix 6385 
 Tesla 6CC42

 The best OPA for the Dac

 OPA 627 BP


----------



## sp70

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MartinV56* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMHO The best VALVES for the Maverick, XS, GF, Dac

 WE396A (D getter)
 WE2C51 (D getter)
 Bendix 6385 
 Tesla 6CC42

 The best OPA for the Dac

 OPA 627 BP_

 

Do you have an real use speculation on that MartinV56? Have you rolled them in the Maverick yourself I mean? I'd really like to hear your feedback on this unit itself. Thanks, sp70.


----------



## ninjikiran

My mav is still overseas, its killing me. Ordered it on thursday last week.


----------



## wheelsx45

What does the direct button do?


----------



## millerlitescott

The direct button eliminates the volume control and it acts like a stand alone DAC.

 Scott


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sp70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have an real use speculation on that MartinV56? Have you rolled them in the Maverick yourself I mean? I'd really like to hear your feedback on this unit itself. Thanks, sp70._

 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...4/index17.html

 I have the Xiang-Sheng Dac 01, with WE 396 view the photo, my amps are set, Diy DHT 45,2A3,300B. The Xiang-Sheng for the price ($195)is a excellent tube preamp and good tube buffer dac.I Replace the Zhaolu Dac 2.5 with LM4562 and bypass by Xiang-sheng and I like the XS.I try to improve the XS far as I can, if I fail in the future I think of a Paradisea or Havana Dac lot more costly


----------



## ljr

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ovrclkd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone received confirmation on their order first? I paypal-ed on the 14th and haven't heard from Maverick Audio. I also can't log into the site although I'm registered?_

 

I bought mine 2 days ago and Ryan sent to me an instant confirmation email for the payment and a DHL tracking number this morning.


----------



## ljr

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have a link to a good DIY thread on this??_

 

For DIY cables take a look in this site

DIY audio cables


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sp70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have an real use speculation on that MartinV56? Have you rolled them in the Maverick yourself I mean? I'd really like to hear your feedback on this unit itself. Thanks, sp70._

 

I dont specule,


----------



## sp70

I wasn't talking about tubes, I was talking about OPAMPs. I wanted to know if you actually use the BB OPAMP yourself and what your thoughts on it were.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MartinV56* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I dont specule,_


----------



## xcluded

which is better , BB or LM4562 ?


----------



## MartinV56

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...ml#post6181494


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't tried LM4562 with our DAC. The LF353N works very well in our design, and I don't think there will be big improvement. We have tried a few BB OpAmp, to me the improvement is not significant. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MartinV56* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks_

 

i feel like changing because of the high shrills it gives.

 it makes long listening fatigue......

 i think my D1 is still under 50 hours or so.....


----------



## sp70

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i feel like changing because of the high shrills it gives.

 it makes long listening fatigue......

 i think my D1 is still under 50 hours or so....._

 

I'd go ahead with that, trust me, it doesn't change much more. I'm working on either getting some BBs or HDAMs or SOMETHING, anything, for myself besides the stock OPAMPs here. The stock D1 + Grados makes for a quite grating high end. I felt as if Robert Fripp was poking me with broken guitar strings earlier. The things I do for the music I love...


----------



## _Spanky_

Shrill highs are gone with my setup


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sp70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd go ahead with that, trust me, it doesn't change much more. I'm working on either getting some BBs or HDAMs or SOMETHING, anything, for myself besides the stock OPAMPs here. The stock D1 + Grados makes for a quite grating high end. I felt as if Robert Fripp was poking me with broken guitar strings earlier. The things I do for the music I love...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

In that I am, but I have my doubts HDAMs not fit in the chassis


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MartinV56* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In that I am, but I have my doubts HDAMs not fit in the chassis_

 

If they do fit it will be very snug and you will have to prevent shorting. One of these days I plan to drop $60+ on it to figure it out... but until then, I have other bills =\

 *EDIT*
 Oh, and you'll have to buy the extensions because even with the lid removed, I don't know if they'll fit with the surrounding components.


----------



## xcluded

wow farnell was pretty fast.

 my LT1364 and LM4562 just arrived.

 Does the opamps need time to burn in ? Sorry , kinda noob here.

 but heck , i need to buy the correct hex key first.


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea they need burn-in. Let music play on it overnight and in a couple days you'll be like "wow, is this the D1 anymore?".


----------



## jonhapimp

Threadjack: how do you burn in Amps, do you have to have headphone plugged in when burning in(which I'm guessing yes)


----------



## ovrclkd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ljr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought mine 2 days ago and Ryan sent to me an instant confirmation email for the payment and a DHL tracking number this morning._

 

Well, it came today .... holy crap! I know there is burn in and there are tweaks but I've got a zen plugged into the analog with 702's on and I gotta say I'm impressed. I'm hearing parts in songs that I didn't know existed and that I've "played" a hundred times. Does it need a tad more bass, yes, mids aren't bad and I think the highs will tame with time, tweaks and the help on this forum. The "soundstage" is very good. Yea I'm a newbie to this and I'll purchase and hear better units down the road but for the money I'm very pleased.
 Now once I get the RP500 running thru it I'll be thrilled, time for more cables from FraGGler! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 PS> I also noticed I don't lean to the left as much while sitting as I did before I found this forum ....


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ovrclkd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_holy crap! I know there is burn in and there are tweaks but I've got a zen plugged into the analog with 702's on and I gotta say I'm impressed. I'm hearing parts in songs that I didn't know existed and that I've "played" a hundred times._

 

I'll agree. I hope people aren't reading the end of this thread and thinking "well if the highs suck, I'm not going to get it" because the stock D1 is still a great deal. It was better than my previous setup and like ovrclkd, I heard detail that I hadn't before. Anything can be "bad" when compared to something else but there's nothing bad about the D1 considering the price and customer support/service. The fact that it offers tube and opamp upgrades adds icing on the cake.


----------



## xcluded

Spanky , i just changed the opamps.

 initial findings were very encouraging. Less shrills now. Hopefully as hours goes by , it will mature further.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spanky , i just changed the opamps.

 initial findings were very encouraging. Less shrills now. Hopefully as hours goes by , it will mature further.





_

 

See? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Burn it a couple days and you'll highly enjoy it.


----------



## ninjikiran

As I thought my other amp were not properly driving my DT770 Pro250. These drive them much better. 

 I can't make any impressions on SQ yet, so far so good but my first impression were my headphones being fully powered. They don't give me the impression that they are struggling anymore.

 Only thing I miss is I can't pass through AC3 files to the device, but not much a loss for music. (I used to pass AC3 files and even without Dolby Headphone it was able to play, now I just get static if I try.

 I love the gain and notched volume on this device. Leaves tons of room.

 Only thing they I would improve on the visual design is the actual knob. In my lighting environment it is a little hard to see the notch. I had to fudge my way to optical. I'll try the USB out sometime down the line, but definately enjoying its performance out of the box. It is an improvement thats for sure, which that is all most noobs like myself care about. I can't describe sound, but since my headphones are better powered, theres more punch to them, improvement in sound stage as well. All of those were my immediate impressions.

 Edit:
 Out of a curiosity test, I connected my 360/Ps3 via digital out and it sounded great. I also connected my PSP and it sounded great as well. Definitely boost the SQ of the console.

 I actually didn't much miss the loss of 5.1


 They are powering my otherwise hard to power cheap-o ebay speakers through the head-phone out. Which I don't use only when I want to show someone a YT video or something. Or when I have my Wii connected and playing a game that uses the wiimote speaker. They get loud!



 Edit: *Question about heat*
 It seems to get quite hot on the top, is it safe to keep it on for hours without letting it cool off?


----------



## xcluded

as long there is enough space for ventilation (don't block the air vents) , i guess it will be alright. i played for 6-8 hours straight without problems.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_as long there is enough space for ventilation (don't block the air vents) , i guess it will be alright. i played for 6-8 hours straight without problems.




_

 

Yea that I won't do, I am just extra senstiive about my new stuff. I know these chips can run fairly hot, but don't want to burn them out.


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yea that I won't do, I am just extra senstiive about my new stuff. I know these chips can run fairly hot, but don't want to burn them out._

 

i asked someone here back then , he said the most of the heat was generated by the tube.

 i don't think the capacitors/opamps/resistors are generating that much of the heat.

 by the way , you using the stock opamps ? Or did you changed to something else?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i asked someone here back then , he said the most of the heat was generated by the tube.

 i don't think the capacitors/opamps/resistors are generating that much of the heat.

 by the way , you using the stock opamps ? Or did you changed to something else?_

 

Everything is stock, don't have any upgrade plans at the moment. I got the upgraded tubes just so I can have a little fun with the different sound of it once in a while.


----------



## _Spanky_

It is definitely the tube that causes all the heat. I don't think it's cause for much concern, even with that heat, I doubt it's warming up the other components much. I've run mine all night and into the day and never had any issue with it. Before I bought it, I actually asked Ryan about the heat since I know those Zero's get pretty warm and he said there's nothing to worry about.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is definitely the tube that causes all the heat. I don't think it's cause for much concern, even with that heat, I doubt it's warming up the other components much. I've run mine all night and into the day and never had any issue with it. Before I bought it, I actually asked Ryan about the heat since I know those Zero's get pretty warm and he said there's nothing to worry about._

 

Good, because last time I got an IC that hot it was because I burnt it out by forgetting a resister 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 Yea the surroundings should be ok, I kind of forgot the tube generated heat so it was worrisome at first.

 Only thing worrisome now is all the finger smears I got on it


----------



## _Spanky_

Bearmann, I'm wondering about the gain and was hoping you could help me out.

 Does adjusting the gain like you have reduce the noise in the amp?

 I'm using DT770 80ohm headphones and get no more than 7 clicks in the volume knob, would it be a good idea for me to mod it?

 Lastly would be the resistor... I don't know parts and honestly I don't know which why it would go in. I know how to solder and have replaced caps a couple times on PCB's but I have no idea about resistors. I looked the following up and I think they're in your specifications as well as supposedly good brands:
CMF5510K000FEEB Vishay/Dale Metal Film Resistors
CMF5515K000FHEK Vishay/Dale Metal Film Resistors

 What do you think?


----------



## xcluded

lol 4 clicks is my comfortable listening level , with my AD2000.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_lol 4 clicks is my comfortable listening level , with my AD2000._

 

Well, I have turned Foobar down to about half volume. I think I had around 4-5 clicks before. That's not my main concern though, I could live with that. The noise gets, for lack of better term, annoying when there's not much sound. It's really fine the way it is but I'm always looking for cheap & easy ways to improve


----------



## bearmann

By lowering the gain you also reduce the noise of the headphone amp, yes.
 I used the pins of a DIP8 socket (the socket for your generic opamp) and soldered those to the PCB instead of replacing the resistors directly. Now I the resistors are swappable and I can use the value which suits me best.






 The resistors you found are just fine. But you really can use the cheapest metal film resistors you can find...

 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## _Spanky_

Nice idea Bearmann, I was planning on buying a couple opamp sockets anyway 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I smell the beginnings of a FrankenMav 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Am I understanding this right?
 The noise in the gain isn't a constant increase with more gain, it exponentially increases? Thus less gain would be significantly less noise even if you have to turn the volume up?

 Dumb question... does it matter which way I install the resistors?


----------



## 74dva

Maverick Audio DAC, DAC chip-U3 is CS4334(development around
 1998) - 96 dB Dynamic Range!!!. ........ ! - Is not 117dB. Receiver U2 -CS8415A This scheme - I sketched about ..


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The noise in the gain isn't a constant increase with more gain, it exponentially increases? Thus less gain would be significantly less noise even if you have to turn the volume up?_

 

yes.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dumb question... does it matter which way I install the resistors?_

 

no.






*@74dva:*
 nice reverse engineering. Any idea about the USB receiver chip?

 regards.
 bearmann


----------



## 74dva

I do not know yet


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *74dva* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maverick Audio DAC, DAC chip-U3 is CS4334(development around
 1998) - 96 dB Dynamic Range!!!. ........ ! - Is not 117dB. Receiver U2 -CS8415A This scheme - I sketched about ..
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Is a obsolete chip?


----------



## 74dva

very old chip


----------



## hodgjy

I’m a long-time lurker, and now I’m a first-time poster. I wanted to chime in on my MAV that arrived today. In fact, reading this forum is what convinced me to buy the MAV in the first place.

 I bought it for the DAC and tube pre-amp. I seriously doubt I’ll ever use it as a headphone amp. I viewed it as the missing piece to my home speaker system.

 First, shipping was extremely fast. Left China on Monday and arrived in my apartment Wednesday morning. Packaging was good. Before I fired it up, I took the cover off to see if any cables were loose. Sure enough, one was, so I gently pushed the clip back into the socket.

 I ordered the upgraded tube. 

 Here’s the rest of my system. Don’t laugh--I know, it’s a little unorthodox and strange, but I’ve been building it for a few months and I really like it. It’s designed as a compromise. I spend 50% of the time using it for TV and movies, and the other 50% for music. So, I have a Vizio blu-ray player for movies. I send audio and video to my tv using HDMI. I also send my cable box to my tv via hdmi. From my tv, I send the audio out into the optical in of the MAV. I have the Sony NS-710H dvd player for sole use as a music cd player. It also decodes AAC files, so I can fill a DVD up with about 600 iTunes songs and play forever. However, the dvd player has always been the weak in my system. The onboard DAC is pure garbage. I also have a vinyl turntable, which gets periodic work.

 Anyway, and this is where I don’t want you to laugh, but my speakers are a Vizio sound bar. Like I said, my system is a compromise for video and audio (the sound bar is a 2.1 system, but has an awesome phantom center. I wanted a 2.1 for music and movies). However, I think the sound bar sounds fantastic. Also, online reviewers agree with me. I think it sounds great for music. I also have a Sony subwoofer connected to the sound bar. Anyway, the weak link in my system is the dvd player--not the speakers.

 So, I got the MAV to shore that up. I’ve only got about 6 hours on the box so far, so I know things are going to get a lot better in about 50 more hours or so. But, I gotta say, even after 6 hours, I can definitely tell the upgrade. The sound is much better than my old setup. My system is no longer crippled by a terrible DAC in the dvd player. The tube warms things up. Very nice.

 The sound is more refined. More balanced. Less harsh. Less sterile. Less treble-heavy. Less muddy. Those of you who’ve used a low-end dvd player for cd music know exactly what I’m talking about. It never sounded good. But, as soon as I ran the digital coax into the MAV, the music just opened up. Wow. I hate to repeat words of others here, but I can literally hear new sounds I’ve never heard before on songs I’ve heard hundreds of times. The sound is more detailed, but more relaxed. I don’t have the terminology to properly describe things, but the sound is “more pure.” More musical. Less clinical and more musical. The sound stage is a little larger. I can still tell where the speakers are, but this more tied to the speaker bar design than anything else. The MAV really helps open things up. I’m hearing more of the harmonies in the music. Harmonies that I never knew existed.

 I could not be more pleased. I love this thing. And to think I only have 6 hours on it. I can’t imagine how things are going to be after a nice burn in. I even run my turntable through it. While my turntable has always been warm, the MAV’s tube really makes the music come more alive. The turntable has a built-in phono amp, which is marginal at best. The MAV really makes the music explode and sound lively.

 Here’s some of my other observations, both good and bad, for those wanting more information about it.

 The sound output (when using direct mode) from the MAV runs extremely hot. Unless you have a good amp or some sort of final sound shaper, you might risk clipping on your home stereo. I have the Behringer FBQ800 graphic equalizer that also has a sound level control. On every source other than my turntable going into the MAV, I have to turn down the sound level about 8-10 db to eliminate clipping. If I didn’t use the MAV, I’d have to up the signal about 2-4 db to prevent the signal from bottoming out. So, you can say that the MAV adds up to 14 db for the line signal. This is no big deal to me, but I’ve read that some people have clipping here. Just be aware that the sound output is extremely hot.

 My case has the wobble. I looked at the rubber feet, and nothing is rough. It’s just got a little bend in the case. I put a piece of felt under one leg and problem solved.

 I also have the headphone hum. But I have some very low impedance (32) headphones, which may be the cause. I don’t use headphones all that much, so it’s no big deal. 

 All in all, I am very pleased with my purchase. It does all I want. Can’t wait for more burn-in.

 I’m going to try it out with blu-ray movies to how they perform. The soundbar does a really good job taking a 2-channel signal and simulating a surround sound. I’m going to see how much the new DAC and tube open up the stage and create more movie presence.


----------



## sp70

From a Stereophile article about the particular DAC circa '98: 

 "Digital audio quality at analog prices." ThatÆs how Cirrus Logic's Crystal Semiconductor division introduced a chip that may bring a new level of audio performance to a much wider audience. On April 6, Crystal announced its CS4334, an 8-pin, small-outline D/A converter. The 24-bit CS4334 will support sampling rates of up to 96kHz, and is being marketed as a low-cost, high-quality solution for computer, automotive, and portable audio applications, as well as DVD systems and set-top converter boxes. Crystal claims the new chip is the industryÆs smallest delta-sigma DAC.

 The highly integrated CS4334 requires fewer external parts, further decreasing manufacturing costs for the products in which it will be used. Unlike most competing DACs, the chip has an internal power-transient control circuit that eliminates the need for external mute circuitry to eliminate clicks and pops when the device is powered on or off. Published specifications include a dynamic range of 96dB, -88dB THD+noise, and the support of multiple word depths, from 16 to 24 bits. Beginning in June, the CS4334 will be available in quantity at less than $2 each in lots of 1000.

Stereophile: Cirrus Logic Introduces New DAC and DVD Controller ICs


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I’m going to try it out with blu-ray movies to how they perform. The soundbar does a really good job taking a 2-channel signal and simulating a surround sound. I’m going to see how much the new DAC and tube open up the stage and create more movie presence._

 

I always wanted a sound bar actually, but always thought they were too expensive for what they were worth. (A good pair of equally priced speakers usually sound better) I want to plop a sound bar under my monitor.


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I always wanted a sound bar actually, but always thought they were too expensive for what they were worth. (A good pair of equally priced speakers usually sound better) I want to plop a sound bar under my monitor._

 

That's why I went with the Vizio bar. It's only $150, and a lot of test sites and reviews claimed it was one of the best out there. It even beat out the $1000 Yamaha sound projector. So, I wasn't turned off by the brand name. Whoever made it for Vizio did a nice job on it.

 Is it better than a pair of floor or bookshelf speakers? Not if you're going to listen to only 2.0 audio. But, It's awesome for movies and certainly is pretty darn good for 2.0 audio. I can hear great stereo separation. But the extra feature is it has a great phantom center for movie dialogue.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's why I went with the Vizio bar. It's only $150, and a lot of test sites and reviews claimed it was one of the best out there. It even beat out the $1000 Yamaha sound projector. So, I wasn't turned off by the brand name. Whoever made it for Vizio did a nice job on it.

 Is it better than a pair of floor or bookshelf speakers? Not if you're going to listen to only 2.0 audio. But, It's awesome for movies and certainly is pretty darn good for 2.0 audio. I can hear great stereo separation. But the extra feature is it has a great phantom center for movie dialogue._

 

I'll look into it, price isn't bad at all. I don't need them for music, my current bookshelf speakers(like $8 but really really good. They beat my Logitech Z2100 speakers rofl.) are a little too big and hard to place but the sound bar is easy to place, and is powered so I can just stick it in the back of the mav and be done.


----------



## hodgjy

The Vizio sound bar is rated to go down to 60 hz, but that's a generous estimation. I would say it does go to 60 hz, but it's a little weak and unrefined below 70 hz. So, I added a $100 Sony sub woofer and set the crossover at 70 hz, and now the thing is singing. The sound bar was made for tv and movies, so the low end was not a priority. Adding the sub really gives it a full low end.


----------



## muad

Im considering buying one of these units but im kinda curious about the build quality. I want something thats gonna last awhile. What kind of life expectancy could i realistically expect from the maverick? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

 thanks


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im considering buying one of these units but im kinda curious about the build quality. I want something thats gonna last awhile. What kind of life expectancy could i realistically expect from the maverick? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

 thanks_

 

I would say the build quality is on par with other electronic devices. I only have two minor complaints about my unit. 1) The feet aren't flush, so there's a slight wobble in. This is due the pressing of the metal case, and nothing more. I just put a sticky felt shim under one foot and problem solved. 2) I have a hum in the headphone jack, but this is most likely due to my low-impedance headphones.

 Considering about 99% off all our electronics these days are made in China, I would say the build quality of the MAV is right in line, or slightly better, than all other electronics we buy.

 My only main concern is there is no certification, such as UL listing, to ensure the electronics aren't going to burn your house down.

 However, I expect this unit to last a long time. I will have to replace the tube every so often, because those are considered consumables, but that's about it.


----------



## Legis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *74dva* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maverick Audio DAC, DAC chip-U3 is CS4334(development around
 1998) - 96 dB Dynamic Range!!!. ........ ! - Is not 117dB. Receiver U2 -CS8415A This scheme - I sketched about ..
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

117dB DR is not stated in the Mavaudio specs, but in XS' and Grant audio's specs. I presume they still use same DAC than Mave, but exaggerate the DR "little"?

 I have AD1955 (120dB DR, -110dB THD + N) DAC in my integrated amp, will test how MAV's DAC compares to it once Mave arrives. One must rememeber that the specs of the DAC aren't always the whole truth as the sound signature varies from DAC to DAC. All "reasonably good" specs DACs can have good sound and to human's ears a DAC with inferior specs can sound better than the one with better specs.

*Edit: *74dva: have you already figured out that what DAC would be "drop in" for the mentioned Cirrus Logic DAC, if one wants to change Mave's DAC?


----------



## 74dva

I have not interested


----------



## Suedehead

I am almost ready to order one of these units...however.

 The unbalanced chassis issue concerns me. Is this problem found on all units being shipped or is it just found on random units? I was hoping the build quality would be better. Maybe they can inspect the unit before shipping if it is a random problem.

 I will be using this mainly for headphone use and have concerns over the hum mentioned earlier. Can I be sure that this noise is attributed to the ohm of the headphone?

 These issues are making me lean back towards the Zero which is considerably less.


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Suedehead* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am almost ready to order one of these units...however.

 The unbalanced chassis issue concerns me. Is this problem found on all units being shipped or is it just found on random units? I was hoping the build quality would be better. Maybe they can inspect the unit before shipping if it is a random problem.
_

 

I'm not affiliated with Maverick or Ryan in any way, and I'm by no means a fan boy. 

 However, I consider the wobble of the chassis a non-issue. Anytime you have stamped metal (and the case is nothing other than bent sheet metal, you have the possibility for warp. Pressing is much less exact process than milling or casting. Any time you have pressing, you can have wobble. (Try bending a piece of metal four times to make a square instead of milling a block or forging a square. It's just that many manufacturers (like cars, for example) either re-bend the sheet metal or already shim it for you before you buy it. I have a LaCie external hard drive, and it's case is pressed aluminum. It wobbles. I have another external drive, made by OWC. It's cast aluminum. No wobble. I consider them both excellent hard drives and have no fear on storing data on them.

 So, in other words, the wobble has more to do with the technique of metal pressing than with quality control. 

 DVD players and stand-alone CD players often have plastic cases, or plastic components making up the case. You can mold plastic in exactly 90 angles. The Maverick has an aluminum case. That's the difference.

 On the other hand, the headphone hum is something that could be worrisome and needs to be properly addressed here.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im considering buying one of these units but im kinda curious about the build quality. I want something thats gonna last awhile. What kind of life expectancy could i realistically expect from the maverick? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

 thanks_

 

Mines is flush on the feeties, the casing is solid and the inside is neat. I couldn't comment on the circuit design/parts, but if there were any major faults someone would of pointed it out already as there are tons of knowledgeable people in this thread.

 I think it is just a random design flaw, but one that seems to effect quite a few people. I might of gotten lucky, or a seperate batch altogether. A little wobbliness wouldn't really effect the overal life expectancy of the device other than drive you bat poo insane.


----------



## Apollonius of Perga

No wobble on mine.


----------



## hodgjy

We have to be realistic here. There's a reason the Mav costs $200, and other DACs can cost up into the $1000s. Sure, some have better components. Some have better opamps. Some have better DA chips. But, are the components really $800 better? Probably not. Costs are cut during parts of the manufacturing process. For example, the choice to use bent sheet metal instead of a nice, milled aluminum case. We're also not paying someone to detail the DAC and buff it with a diaper, making sure everything is pretty and flush before it gets sent to us. It's leaving some unknown factory of unknown quality from China. I assume there's little to no qality control. Stamp, solder, box, ship. No offense to Ryan, but that's probably the situation. That's just the whole side effect of economies of scale.

 Does the case type affect sound quality? No. It's just aesthetics.

 So, just remember, we're buying $200 DACs and not $1000 ones. Don't expect it to look like a $1000 DAC. 

 However, I still am curious about the headphone hum. I'd like a definitive answer from someone in the know.


----------



## _Spanky_

I used to have wobble but there was a piece of crud on my desk that latched onto one of the feet... wiped that off and it's flat. Stuck some foam tape to the feet and now it's flat and feels like it's bolted to my desk 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I will say on mine though that the back end seems to be bent towards the front panel about 1 or 2mm too far so it's a little hard to get the rear screws back in but it's not impossible and certainly doesn't impede my listening experience.

 The hum/noise... just caused by a lot of gain to support super high ohm headphones. Ryan apparently changed resistors and those units are shipping now according to another forum member. It's not a loud noise and you won't notice it 95% of the time. It is fixable by a very simple solder job but your warranty is gone. If you already have a unit and don't want to mod, I would e-mail Ryan about the possibility of sending your unit's PCB back for a swap-out.

 When it comes down to Zero or Maverick... The Maverick has far less serious issues. Inadequate PCB traces vs a little hum? Ryan has sold BATCHES of the Maverick and I've read this whole thread and only remember 2 people reporting a wobbily case and no publicly reported DOA units. The Maverick has more features and far better customer support. I was in those shoes and the choice was clear to me and I don't regret it one bit.


----------



## hodgjy

Ok, aside from the sheet metal and wobbles...let's get back to the main issue at hand.......the sound quality!

 I have about 20 hours on my Mav now. I let it run music all night at low volume while I slept. I did turn it off for when I went to work today.

 It's burning in very nicely. Bass is coming in nicely. It's more punchy. It's not any deeper than before, because my system only goes down to 28 hz. But, it's more defined, better controlled, and has a more profound shape. It's not just a mud of low frequency. I'm hearing separation between the frequencies. Very nice.

 The sound stage is also opening up a lot. It feels a little wider and closer to me. I wouldn't say it's gotten any taller. But I can tell it's a little wider and closer to me.

 I'd say it's burning in nicely. Still needs some more, but all in all, I'm glad I bought this. Wobbly case and all.

*EDIT. ANOTHER COOL OBSERVATION.* We've heard the expression, "If you can hear your subwoofer, you have it improperly set up." In other words, the BOOM BOOM BUMP BUMP some of us love isn't what a sub is truly set up to do. It's supposed to just add the bottom octaves.

 Well, no matter how I set up my subwoofer, I always had spatial awareness of it. I tried all crossover and gain combinations I could physically make. It could either hear the woofer very clearly, which made for an uncomfortable listening experience, or it was set so low there was no point of having a sub at all. 

 So, now, the Mav really integrated my sub into my system. The sub no longer has spatial awareness. I get the bottom octaves in beautiful tones and shapes, but now it's undirectional bass. This is awesome!!!


----------



## hodgjy

Random question:

 When I flip my Maverick over and look at the vents on the bottom, it looks like a cable is hot glue gunned into the board. What's the reason for that? Extra protection for the solder?


----------



## _Spanky_

I could think of 2 reasons...
 1. Protection
 2. Voided Warranty Evidence

 I dunno about number 2 but I don't think a person would remove the PCB without wanting to modify it. I know the wires from the power supply go under the PCB so maybe it is just for protection.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Suedehead* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am almost ready to order one of these units...however.

 The unbalanced chassis issue concerns me. Is this problem found on all units being shipped or is it just found on random units? I was hoping the build quality would be better. Maybe they can inspect the unit before shipping if it is a random problem.

 I will be using this mainly for headphone use and have concerns over the hum mentioned earlier. Can I be sure that this noise is attributed to the ohm of the headphone?

 These issues are making me lean back towards the Zero which is considerably less._

 

FWIW, my unit has no wobble.


----------



## bearmann

Just a quick update on opamp rolling:

 - AD823:
 120/180mV DC offset. Sounds very nice and kinda "forward / in your face". Probably a good choice for laid back / warmer headphones, but you probably knew that already... DC offset is critical though, at least in my unit.

 - LME49720:
 120/180mV DC offset (yeah, exact same as with AD823). Very neutral and natural but less kickbass than the AD823, I think.

 - LM4562NA: 0/0mV DC offset (!). It's now my opamp of choice although I thought that LME49720NA = LM4562NA... I guess not.

 - OPA2132: 0/0mV DC Offset... didn't listen very closely to this one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 best regards.
 bearmann


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a quick update on opamp rolling:

 - AD823:
 120/180mV DC offset. Sounds very nice and kinda "forward / in your face". Probably a good choice for laid back / warmer headphones, but you probably knew that already... DC offset is critical though, at least in my unit.

 - LME49720:
 120/180mV DC offset (yeah, exact same as with AD823). Very neutral and natural but less kickbass than the AD823, I think.

 - LM4562NA: 0/0mV DC offset (!). It's now my opamp of choice although I thought that LME49720NA = LM4562NA... I guess not.

 - OPA2132: 0/0mV DC Offset... didn't listen very closely to this one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

What makes the LM4562NA your opamp of choice out of curiosity.


----------



## muad

Im SOLD! Thanks for all the feedback everyone. Hopefully the mav will bring my audioengines to the next level.... its gotta sound better than a xfi titanium.... right?


----------



## thearrow

bear,

 I'm assuming those op-amp impressions were for the headphone amp.

 Have you tried any different op-amps for the DAC?

 Which do you think would yield the best sound quality?

 Also, does anyone have a better place than ebay to buy some 5670 Raytheon Windmill Getters?



 PS. Mine doesn't wobble at all, it's perfect.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, does anyone have a better place than ebay to buy some 5670 Raytheon Windmill Getters?_

 

I wouldn't hesitate buying from that eBay seller. I personally got great service and quick shipping from them on the Windmill getters.


----------



## xcluded

My unit does not wobble at all as well. No hum as well. Just a little hiss for my sensitive AD2000.

 In addition , i stick four 3m rubber feets on top of that to make sure my set is "bolted" to my table. It does not move around easily now.

 I'm using LT1364 for the DAC and LM 4562 for the headphone amp. So far so gd I would say.

 Anyone using different opamp for DAC , care to share their results ?


----------



## hodgjy

I looked more carefully at the Mav box tonight. I have concluded that the wobble is not caused by the stamping of the metal. It's caused by the rubber feet themselves. I can see, based on the molding marks on the feet, one foot is about 1 mm shorter than the others. This causes the wobble. So, it's a double non-issue now.


----------



## Legis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just a quick update on opamp rolling:

 - AD823:
 120/180mV DC offset. Sounds very nice and kinda "forward / in your face". Probably a good choice for laid back / warmer headphones, but you probably knew that already... DC offset is critical though, at least in my unit.

 - LME49720:
 120/180mV DC offset (yeah, exact same as with AD823). Very neutral and natural but less kickbass than the AD823, I think.

 - LM4562NA: 0/0mV DC offset (!). It's now my opamp of choice although I thought that LME49720NA = LM4562NA... I guess not.

 - OPA2132: 0/0mV DC Offset... didn't listen very closely to this one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

What DMM do you have? Didn't you say couple of pages back that you got that 120/180mV also with LM4562? So, unless your DMM is not of high quality and very accurate, that variance between measures and different op-amps could resemble your DMM's inadequacy to measure such low voltages?


----------



## xcluded

I'm using a normal Fluke DMM , the LM4562 is within the so called "safety" range , DC offset measured very low iirc less than 10mv.


----------



## thearrow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't hesitate buying from that eBay seller._

 

The auction ended and they stopped relisting it.


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The auction ended and they stopped relisting it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

get from mavaudio website direct ?

 imo , it is worthwhile.


----------



## djnagle

Mine wobbled when I got it, but I flipped it over and saw a little round ridge from the molding process was visable on three of the feet. I used a little piece of 220 grit sand paper and knocked the ridges off and it is stable as can be.


----------



## djnagle

OK, I have stated publicly that I would never sit and listen to music on a pair of headphones.....this after spending 4 years in the Navy listening to headphone for 8 hours a day
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I do have a pair of Grado SR60s that I pack when I travel so I can have SOME music in the hotel rooms at night....but was never taken buy the sound. 

 Yesterday, I bought my D1 into my office from my family room and hooked it up to my computer along with my music external harddrive. WOW,
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I never thought headphones could sound so good. I ment to do it just so I would not wake my wife with my music but I gotta say, I was impressed. Now, I am thinking about ordering another D1 just for my office. Damn, I knew I should have never started hanging out here.


----------



## djnagle

OK, I have a question and a comment.

 Does the headphone side of the D1 "burn in" or is it burned in as I have been using it as a preamp in my main system?

 I can hear "air" when there is no music playing and it get, not exactly loud, but very noticable when I crank up the volume. and, the first two clicks on the volume knob don't do anything then the third click is at a perfect listening level. Beyond that, it is too loud.


----------



## thearrow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_get from mavaudio website direct ?



_

 

I was talking about the Raytheon Windmill Getter replacement tubes, not the mav itself, I already have one.


----------



## djnagle

Hey Thearrow, what do you thing about the windmill? I will have that and the WE this weekend to roll.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, I have stated publicly that I would never sit and listen to music on a pair of headphones.....this after spending 4 years in the Navy listening to headphone for 8 hours a day
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I do have a pair of Grado SR60s that I pack when I travel so I can have SOME music in the hotel rooms at night....but was never taken buy the sound. 

 Yesterday, I bought my D1 into my office from my family room and hooked it up to my computer along with my music external harddrive. WOW,
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I never thought headphones could sound so good. I ment to do it just so I would not wake my wife with my music but I gotta say, I was impressed. Now, I am thinking about ordering another D1 just for my office. Damn, I knew I should have never started hanging out here.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_OK, I have a question and a comment.

 Does the headphone side of the D1 "burn in" or is it burned in as I have been using it as a preamp in my main system?

 I can hear "air" when there is no music playing and it get, not exactly loud, but very noticable when I crank up the volume. and, the first two clicks on the volume knob don't do anything then the third click is at a perfect listening level. Beyond that, it is too loud._

 


 @first post, I told you so 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 @second post,
 Happens with sensitive low impedence headphones on the D1. The new production batch of the D1 might of been better for you since the gain was lowered, only way to fix it now would be a relatively simple mod. I don't get it on my headphones and the volume knob has a little more range between low volume, listening normal, and high. They make my headphones shine on new levels 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 so much so I integrated them with my entire system. I also am not completely sold on burn-in so can't comment on that.


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The auction ended and they stopped relisting it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Rare Windmill-Getter Raytheon 5670 (WE 396A 2C51 6N3P) - eBay (item 200429552019 end time Jan-24-10 16:10:24 PST)


----------



## Horizons

I think I read somewhere that the Mav uses a Cirrus 24-bit/96 kHz DAC. If this is true will the DAC handle hires downloads?

 Has anyone tried anything higher than 16-bit/44 kHz?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Horizons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think I read somewhere that the Mav uses a Cirrus 24-bit/96 kHz DAC. If this is true will the DAC handle hires downloads?

 Has anyone tried anything higher than 16-bit/44 kHz?_

 

Yea, I've used 96KHz 24-Bit FLAC files and it handles them just fine. This is over Coaxial, not USB. You can hear both in the headphones and in the unit a click when it changes frequency.


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_bear,

 I'm assuming those op-amp impressions were for the headphone amp.

 Have you tried any different op-amps for the DAC?

 Which do you think would yield the best sound quality?_

 

The question of "best sound quality" has to be answered individually. So I can't recommend you any specific opamp because I don't know your taste... LM4562NA, AD823, probably OPA627 would be a good start though.
 Didn't try any different opamps for the line-out because I am only using the tube out for my monitors.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What makes the LM4562NA your opamp of choice out of curiosity._

 

Sonically it's quite identical/similar to the LME49720 (very neutral) but doesn't produce any DC offset in the Mav... that's all. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Legis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What DMM do you have? Didn't you say couple of pages back that you got that 120/180mV also with LM4562? So, unless your DMM is not of high quality and very accurate, that variance between measures and different op-amps could resemble your DMM's inadequacy to measure such low voltages?_

 

IIRC I only tested the LME49720 but not the LM4562NA. So far I didn't have any problems with my DMM measuring very low voltages...

 regards.
 bearmann


----------



## DannyBuoy

What the "O"? Sorry about that.

 I had done a couple searches of opamp posts in this thread and although I see talk from Bearman and Spanky and a few others, I did not see an outcome of what was swapped and what the outcome was.

 Can someone (or several) please spend a moment to indicate what you replaced, and what the SQ difference was (Like sample below)?

*Maverick Stock Part*----------*Replaced With*----------*Outcome*
 Tube GE JAN 5670---------------WE 396A---------------Greater FQ Ext, Darker background, less shrill

 Perhaps it can become a sticky if found valuable.


----------



## _Spanky_

I'll join in. Perhaps we should get a user count to see how many people have performed the mod/swap and agree with the outcome.

*Maverick Stock Part*----------*Replaced With*----------*Outcome*
 Tube GE JAN 5670---------------WE 396A---------------Greater FQ Ext, Darker background, less shrill
 HP Opamp LF353N---------------LM4562----------------Far less shrill highs, slightly more and detailed bass with less DC offset [1]


----------



## DannyBuoy

_Spanky_;6338558 said:
			
		

> I'll join in. Perhaps we should get a user count to see how many people have performed the mod/swap and agree with the outcome.
> 
> 
> Just order LM4562NA, OPA627BP, and AD823AN from DigiKey.
> ...


----------



## DannyBuoy

I was thinking of trying this tube in the D1 but it can only be purchased in pair. Anyone else interested in one tube?
2 2C51 TUBE LM ERICSSON SWEDEN 396A D RING ATOP 6386 ? - eBay (item 310182715944 end time Feb-15-10 15:08:13 PST)


----------



## ninjikiran

What would be a good place to order LM4562NA opamp? I am interested in checking it out. ( Might actually already have one on my Prelude stock I could gank since I don't use the analog outs)

 Is it that much better than the stock opamp?


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What would be a good place to order LM4562NA opamp? I am interested in checking it out. ( Might actually already have one on my Prelude stock I could gank since I don't use the analog outs)

 Is it that much better than the stock opamp?_

 

inside the D1 the dac is using the same chip as the headphone amp.

 so you might want to change that as well.

 farnell is a good place to source for these.


----------



## millerlitescott

I am running XP on my netbook to the Mav via USB.

 How do I check the Bit rate that I am working with. This is all new to me and I am ready to start to figure this number stuff out. Then I will look into the opamps you all speak of. 

 Scott


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'll join in. Perhaps we should get a user count to see how many people have performed the mod/swap and agree with the outcome.

*Maverick Stock Part*----------*Replaced With*----------*Outcome*
 Tube GE JAN 5670---------------WE 396A---------------Greater FQ Ext, Darker background, less shrill
 HP Opamp LF353N---------------LM4562----------------Far less shrill highs, slightly more and detailed bass with less DC offset [1]_

 

Can you explain "Darker Background" a bit more?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_inside the D1 the dac is using the same chip as the headphone amp.

 so you might want to change that as well.

 farnell is a good place to source for these._

 

Explain a little, I don't understand the chip you are talking about. You mean multiple opamps?

 Edit:

 Looking at a naked image of the maverick I think I see two swappable opamps. Not sure though, this isn't my specialty.


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Explain a little, I don't understand the chip you are talking about. You mean multiple opamps?

 Edit:

 Looking at a naked image of the maverick I think I see two swappable opamps. Not sure though, this isn't my specialty._

 

the swappable opamp closest to the tube , is the dac opamp.
 the other one is the headphone opamp.
 both are using the same , LF353


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the swappable opamp closest to the tube , is the dac opamp.
 the other one is the headphone opamp.
 both are using the same , LF353_

 

And both are swappable I assume. Using the same for both I assume is preferable.

 @Djnagle

 I'll take a stab and say based off the head-fi definition of dark (Dark - A tonal balance that tilts downwards with increasing frequency. Opposite of bright. Weak high frequencies.)

 Since people complained about the highs, I assume a dark background means they are less sharp and ear piercing.


 Edit: This post is full of so many assumptions. I think I should copyright the damn word.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you explain "Darker Background" a bit more?_

 

I was just adding onto the list. I haven't rolled the tube and I don't think I will just because the speakers it's feeding are $26 Logitech's. I only use them when I'm tired of my headphones or I when I want ambient noise. For quality, I stick with my headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And both are swappable I assume. Using the same for both I assume is preferable._

 

I wouldn't say so, while the opamps are doing relatively the same thing, they're going to different components. A DAC may operate better with one kind of opamp while that same opamp would suck in the HP. I realize the Zero and Maverick don't share a similar circuit design but in the Zero, using a LM4562 in both the DAC and HP opamp's made it very bright. The LT1364 and LM4562 were a "perfect" combo that many people enjoyed. It seems the LT1364 is pretty good with DAC's. I could try 2x LM4562 but I have no real desire to keep swapping them as I'm happy with the sound the way it is. I'm going to let some time pass and some money collect up then I'll think about the gain mod and adding the HDAM's which should be an interesting feat. I will totally start a new thread for the FRANKENMAV!


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was just adding onto the list. I haven't rolled the tube and I don't think I will just because the speakers it's feeding are $26 Logitech's. I only use them when I'm tired of my headphones or I when I want ambient noise. For quality, I stick with my headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 I wouldn't say so, while the opamps are doing relatively the same thing, they're going to different components. A DAC may operate better with one kind of opamp while that same opamp would suck in the HP. I realize the Zero and Maverick don't share a similar circuit design but in the Zero, using a LM4562 in both the DAC and HP opamp's made it very bright. The LT1364 and LM4562 were a "perfect" combo that many people enjoyed. It seems the LT1364 is pretty good with DAC's. I could try 2x LM4562 but I have no real desire to keep swapping them as I'm happy with the sound the way it is. I'm going to let some time pass and some money collect up then I'll think about the gain mod and adding the HDAM's which should be an interesting feat. I will totally start a new thread for the FRANKENMAV!_

 

Go for it I wanna know the results 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now I understand that second opamp you mentioned.


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was just adding onto the list. I haven't rolled the tube and I don't think I will just because the speakers it's feeding are $26 Logitech's. I only use them when I'm tired of my headphones or I when I want ambient noise. For quality, I stick with my headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






 I wouldn't say so, while the opamps are doing relatively the same thing, they're going to different components. A DAC may operate better with one kind of opamp while that same opamp would suck in the HP. I realize the Zero and Maverick don't share a similar circuit design but in the Zero, using a LM4562 in both the DAC and HP opamp's made it very bright. The LT1364 and LM4562 were a "perfect" combo that many people enjoyed. It seems the LT1364 is pretty good with DAC's. I could try 2x LM4562 but I have no real desire to keep swapping them as I'm happy with the sound the way it is. I'm going to let some time pass and some money collect up then I'll think about the gain mod and adding the HDAM's which should be an interesting feat. I will totally start a new thread for the FRANKENMAV!_

 

I can't seemed to find the page where bearmann mentioned which of the two particular resistors need to change for the gain. What values you intend to change ? it is equivalent to which gain level ?


----------



## _Spanky_

You can use the search function but... you're lucky I'm nice and have bookmarked them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...ml#post6213012
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...4/index38.html
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...ml#post6333802

 The resistors I'm planning on getting:
Digi-Key - CMF10.0KQFCT-ND (Manufacturer - CMF5010K000FHEB)
Digi-Key - CMF7.50KQFCT-ND (Manufacturer - CMF507K5000FHEB)
Digi-Key - CMF5.62KQFCT-ND (Manufacturer - CMF505K6200FHEB)
Digi-Key - CMF15.0KQFCT-ND (Manufacturer - CMF5015K000FHEB)

 The resistors will allow me to try different gains and see which one I like best. Bearmann said you can use any generic metal film resistor but I've heard good things about Vishay/Dale and a matter of pennys between a good brand and generic doesn't matter to me. Honestly, I'd pay a dollar per resistor if it does what I want perfectly/properly.


----------



## hototay

I'm using the Maverick purely as DAC. I notice that when I'm using the USB, I hear a "cringing" sound after each bass notes from a song. This is very noticeable and annoying specially on songs which starts with double bass cellos such as rebecca pindgeons _spanish harlem_ and Ani D'franco's _Hypnotized_. This cringing sound is not evident when I output the sound from my Laptop's S/PDIF to the Mav DAC. 

 What do you think might be causing this?


----------



## sp70

Well I just received my LT1364 & LM4562, rolled them in - and was first alarmed that I had no sound! Until I found that I put the LM4562 in the wrong way...

 Anyways, once I got everything back together, I fired up songbird and had at it. 

 I was very very pleased. I found not only that the shrills were far tamed, and the high end was far more clear - the bass was stronger and there was a certain improvement in stereo separation. I cannot wait until it burns for a few days. 

 I think that this is one of the best ~$15 improvements one can make to the Maverick. The Maverick is really turned into a contender at this price point with this upgrade, and would highly recommend it to anyone who is considering this hybrid.


----------



## muad

Im new to this whole thing so Im gonna ask some noob questions ... 

 The signal goes through the tube first and then the opamp right? Since Ive already ordered my Mavdac with the tube upgrade would changing the opamp make a huge difference. Keep in mind im not using these with headphones. Im running a pair of audioengine a5s. 

 Would the LM4562 give me a nice warm clean sound? I just dont want shrill highs out of my speakers. Bearman... You seem to think the 637s are overpriced. So what would be a cheaper equivalent to that opamp?

 Last question! What do i need to change the opamp on the mavdac? Do i need a dip8 adapter? 

 thanks


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im new to this whole thing so Im gonna ask some noob questions ... 

 The signal goes through the tube first and then the opamp right? Since Ive already ordered my Mavdac with the tube upgrade would changing the opamp make a huge difference. Keep in mind im not using these with headphones. Im running a pair of audioengine a5s. 

 Would the LM4562 give me a nice warm clean sound? I just dont want shrill highs out of my speakers. Bearman... You seem to think the 637s are overpriced. So what would be a cheaper equivalent to that opamp?

 Last question! What do i need to change the opamp on the mavdac? Do i need a dip8 adapter? 

 thanks_

 

From what I understand, the signal goes into the DAC, then to various spots. One of these would be the tube. The tube is only for pre-amp (for another amplifier or powered speakers) and does nothing for headphone out. (Just read you're going to be using these with speakers) I think the only opamp the tube is "tied" to is the one for the DAC. To be perfectly honest, I don't know what kind of changes in sound happen when the DAC opamp is rolled. I assume the notices I hear are from rolling the opamp in the headphone section on my unit.

 To change the opamp on the Maverick you need an allen wrench (no idea what size), a phillips #2 screwdriver, and a way to ground yourself. If you swap the opamp with a LM4562, it's as simple as swapping a RCA interconnect. Simply pull the existing one out (I used needle-nosed pliers carefully) and push the new one in. But keep in mind the orientation. Opamps have a half-moon marking on one end, so does the PCB and socket, make sure they're all on the same side.


----------



## muad

thanks for the fast reply! I was worried id have to solder the opamp onto a socket.


----------



## _Spanky_

No problem 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 For me they were a little hard to get out but as long as you're pulling straight up, you shouldn't risk breaking anything.


----------



## matt27

spanky, I noticed from your sig you use the d1 in your gaming setup as well. can you comment on how well it sounds with games?


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *matt27* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_spanky, I noticed from your sig you use the d1 in your gaming setup as well. can you comment on how well it sounds with games?_

 

It sounds great with games. (I know you didn't ask me) I've been using it with my 360 to play Borderlands via optical in and the spatial listening it allows combined with the soundstage of the K601s is really killer.


----------



## matt27

thanks CW, I was pretty much set on ordering the D1 but after hearing that It's set in stone


----------



## _Spanky_

I'm glad TheBigCW said something because I'm not sure how to answer this. I'll just say a bunch of facts (as far as I know) and observations.

 Games (not sure about Xbox/PS3) use compressed proprietary formats in the engines so it's not really the same thing as a nice quality FLAC in your favorite media player.

 To be perfectly honest, I don't know that I notice an improvement in games with the D1 vs my old setup. My old setup wasn't that bad for gaming and I didn't buy the D1 to improve my gaming sound. I know it sounds different but you can change one tiny thing and change the sound signature. I will say that without a doubt, the D1 hasn't degraded my gaming sound.

 I would lay money that if you are using only onboard sound or a low-end sound card, the D1 would greatly improve the sound in-game. However if you have a modded Creative X-Fi or an Auzentech X-Fi... I don't know if it would make much of an improvement but it certainly wouldn't be the weakpoint either. If nothing else, you could look forward to a higher-quality external DAC that would be prone to less noise.

 With that said, I feel there's a bit more depth while there's a little less bass, it's definitely more detailed. Again, this is all vs my old setup which, for gaming, was pretty good.


----------



## matt27

right now my setup is x-fi xtremegamer>jdslabs cmoy>hfi-780. hardly the best setup but it's alright. I plan on getting some dt880s (250 or 600 ohm, haven't decided yet) I figure the cmoy wouldn't be enough to drive them, so that's another reason I was looking at getting the D1, since it looks like a nice amp that won't put me in debt for years. the dac is just an added bonus. anyway, thanks for your impressions.


----------



## ninjikiran

It sounds much better for gaming than staight up connections(360/PS3). Still the Astro Mixamp has dolby headphone which gives you 5.1 properly mixed into your headphones which sounds great for gaming.

 Same with PC gaming ----^

 I have been using my D1 for gaming for the past couple of days though and the clarity is excellent. The astro mixamp just doesn't have enough power for my already power hungry headphones but with lower impedence OR easier to power cans(since it can handle up to 300ohms) it does great.


----------



## matt27

I have the victor su-dh1 which is similar, although im almost convinced it has a bit of sound lag in games. oh well. would running it through the d1's headphone amp make any noticeable improvements to sound or would it mess with the dolby headphone positioning technologies?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *matt27* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I figure the cmoy wouldn't be enough to drive them_

 

That's probably one of the top reasons why the bass sounds more precise and detailed after I upgraded from the Penguin CMOY. The D1 certainly isn't a bad investment even if you already have a X-Fi. I've said it before and I'll say it again... I don't regret getting the unit and I'm very pleased with the sound quality, features, support and price.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *matt27* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have the victor su-dh1 which is similar, although im almost convinced it has a bit of sound lag in games. oh well. would running it through the d1's headphone amp make any noticeable improvements to sound or would it mess with the dolby headphone positioning technologies?_

 

For one the Victor su-dh1 is using last generation tech, the astro is using upgraded DH 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. The Victor supports DTS though, and is more configurable to suit your DH needs. Every step of processing between you and the source adds a delay, generally it is small but some people do notice it. You might be one of those sensitive to that small delay.

 Secondly instant I connected my 360 to the D1 I got static. The d1 can't process a dolby stream at all. And dolby headphone doesn't work properly without a 5.1 stream or pro logic stream. Had to change my settings to digital stereo.


 Though you might be able to connect the SU-DH1 before the D1, I havn't tried this but slapping it into the Line in and just manually switching cables might work fine since I Just read up on the SU-DH1 and it doesn't amplify. This should have no bearing on the mixed stream, but could have an impact on SQ. My predicament is mines is an amplifier so the results would probably not be very fun. If you get the D1 tell me how it works out if you try this, if it is good i'll grab one just to be able to mix DTS/AAC 5.1 streams. Though I prefer a direct link to the D1 for music.

 Would be amazing if they made a D1 with this stuff built in on a toggle.


----------



## ELP FAN

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_regarding gain...



*A.* Lowering the gain of the headphone amp:
 Lower R54/R55 (default value should be between 22k ohm and 30k ohm) to 15k ohm or lower. Mine has 4.7k ohm at this moment.
 best regards.
 bearmann_

 

I use 32 Ohm Senn headsets, i'm presently using a 10K resistor to in place of the 30K (R54/55) that's virtually got shut of hum, i need to fit a slightly lower to be 100% satisfied


----------



## sp70

I forgot to mention, my upgrade to the LT1364 & LM4562 has almost entirely eliminated the hum at lower volumes! It struck me as strange when I first put my 'phones on but now I realize that there is a huge difference. Like I said, the LT1364 & LM4562 are the best upgrade for the money you can do for the D1. 
 At the risk of sounding even more strange, not only has it lowered hum/hiss at lower volumes with my low ohm phones, but the volume seems quite a bit more linear. For instance, I can take it up to 12 o'clock for certain songs, whereas before that would have blown my hearing with the stock OPAMPs.


----------



## Legis

Has anyone compared Mav D1 to Bereford TC-7520SE Caiman or Cambridge Audio Dacmagic or similar DACs?


----------



## Horizons

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sp70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I forgot to mention, my upgrade to the LT1364 & LM4562 has almost entirely eliminated the hum at lower volumes! It struck me as strange when I first put my 'phones on but now I realize that there is a huge difference. Like I said, the LT1364 & LM4562 are the best upgrade for the money you can do for the D1. 
 At the risk of sounding even more strange, not only has it lowered hum/hiss at lower volumes with my low ohm phones, but the volume seems quite a bit more linear. For instance, I can take it up to 12 o'clock for certain songs, whereas before that would have blown my hearing with the stock OPAMPs._

 

I have a few LT1364s laying around. Can I use both of these for the opamp upgrades? thanks


----------



## matt27

@ninjikiran: thanks for the info man. i'll let you know the results with the su-dh1 whenever I get this thing.

 one question for everyone: will the D1 drive the dt880 600ohms adequately?


----------



## muad

Do you guys normally order 1 opamp at a time or multiple? 
 Also can anyone recommend an opamp for the dac end since im using speakers only. Im already gonna order a LT1364 and and LM4562 and i guess try the combo. If i don`t like the LT1364 I can always roll the LM4562 for the dac. Lol, its always tricky trying to figure out if everyone rolling opamps are using it for the headphones or not. I usually just assume you are....


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Horizons* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a few LT1364s laying around. Can I use both of these for the opamp upgrades? thanks_

 

Go for it. Definitely in the DAC but I'm not sure how it would sound in the HP opamp.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *matt27* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_one question for everyone: will the D1 drive the dt880 600ohms adequately?_

 

Someone else asked about 600ohm headphones and that is at least one of the reasons why the gain is so high, to support and drive ALL headphones properly.


----------



## tommo21

Well....time to break my Head-Fi virginity......a Tube Magic has been ordered. Currently stuck in chinese customs in Shanghai, but really looking forward to be getting it. I'm gonna use it with my computers s/pdif out, and it's gonna feed my Swans M200-MKIII.

 Already ordered some replacement tubes as in Raytheon 5670 and WE 396a both NOS. Have some opamps from a previoys project which I'm gonna try out..... OPA627BP and 637 BP mounted on Browndogs and LME49720HA mounted on adapters as well. The fit for the browndogs may be a bit tight, so I figure that I can stack another socket in between to get the height required for the browndogs. Really looking forvward to be getting back into the Tube-world.....really miss the sound since I last tried it. 

 Anyone tried Tube-Dampers on the Tube Magic?


----------



## muad

hey tommo, Do you know if we need single or dual opamaps for the mav? Im guessing dual right? Would i only need one 627/637 for the mavs dac?


----------



## tommo21

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey tommo, Do you know if we need single or dual opamaps for the mav? Im guessing dual right? Would i only need one 627/637 for the mavs dac?_

 


 Well, as I've understood it you need dual opamps. So the 627's and 637's are single channel only, so you need at browndog adapter to fit two of these opamps, a total of 4 if your gonna change for both the headphone out and the DAC-out. Please correct me anyone if I'm wrong!


----------



## _Spanky_

Dual for sure. It will be a tight fit for the adapter but stacking a socket should work. That's what I'm planning on doing for the Audio-GD HDAM units.


----------



## muad

k then the 637/627 are out, don't really wanna spend 80 on 2 opamps. As for the LM4562 and the LT1364 no adapters are required right? Sorry to ask so many questions and thanks for all the feedback so far.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As for the LM4562 and the LT1364 no adapters are required right? Sorry to ask so many questions and thanks for all the feedback so far._

 

No adapters needed. Pop out the old ones, pop in the new ones and it's done. No need to apologize either, this thread is for learning and sharing experiences


----------



## muad

thanks


----------



## xcluded

Hi , i have this question which bothers me quite awhile.

 if i set my PC sound volume at the sound settings to say 80%. the foobar2k volume is set at 100%. I will be adjusting the volume to a comfortable level from the D1. 

 the question is , will it affect the sound quality in one way or another ?


----------



## bearmann

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the question is , will it affect the sound quality in one way or another ?_

 

Well, you have a D1, don't you? Does it sound different to you?!


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bearmann* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, you have a D1, don't you? Does it sound different to you?!_

 

hmm i would say indifferent. perhaps my ears are not that sensitive.

 i wonder if anyone else are sensitive enough to sense any difference.


----------



## ?ractaL

Has any progress been made regarding the USB re-sampling issue? I was ready to order a Mav D1 but forced myself to read through this entire thread first. After reading about the Maverick's inability to accept a 44/16 without re-sampling (bit-perfect), I hesitated. I would just order it and hook it up via S/PDIF, but everything I have read indicates a properly setup USB DAC will outperform an S/PDIF DAC (unless the S/PDIF DAC is very expensive with some type of fancy crystallization setup.)

 I really really want to buy this thing but don't want to spend $235 on a product that hasn't had all the "bugs" worked out yet. Plus as the foundation of what will be a nice setup I don't want to get a DAC that I may regret buying in the future. 

 I'll keep checking back here. In the meantime, can anyone recommend another USB DAC with similar features, performance, and price? Do the XS and GF units that are similar to the mav suffer from the same USB problems?


----------



## _Spanky_

For Foobar volume control, I looked this up myself and while I lost the thread, I can say that it was determined by several people that the Foobar volume control doesn't hurt sound quality like other applications. Personally, I don't notice a difference but WASAPI and 100% volume (in most applications) are 2 free and easy ways that may improve sound quality so... why not.

 For USB, I haven't heard anything new on this. I've tried finding drivers to force/change the sampling rate in Windows but haven't had success yet. If you know of threads that confirm and prove USB is better than SPDIF, please post them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I would be interested in the read.


----------



## ninjikiran

I only use the D1 volume control, especially for music since I use WASAPI as well. Everything is on 100% in windows and foobar.


 The way we have our cards set up it completely skips the dac and just passes through to the D1. Since based on what I understand the dac converts to analog and spdif is digital so it doesn't need to convert to analog. The end device will do the conversion instead which for us is the D1. I am about 90% sure~


----------



## djnagle

I was told once by the guys at WADIA that reducing volume in a computer, be it in Media Monkey or the computers volume control actually takes away some of the music and not just reduce the volume. Is that true? I really can't hear a difference.


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I only use the D1 volume control, especially for music since I use WASAPI as well.

 Everything is on 100% in windows and foobar._

 

My Windows volume control does not effect the level at all. I am running an external HD and going to the D1 via USB.


----------



## tommo21

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I only use the D1 volume control, especially for music since I use WASAPI as well.

 Everything is on 100% in windows and foobar._

 

Wouldn't the best thing be to bypass the D1 volume and adjust the volume from the computer's main volume or if you got active speakers on your desktop just use their volume adjustment?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I only use the D1 volume control, especially for music since I use WASAPI as well. Everything is on 100% in windows and foobar._

 

I would do this but the gain is just too much and I prefer to have a bit more control on the D1's volume. After I do the gain mod, I'll have everything 100% in Windows for sure.


----------



## ninjikiran

Yea, windows volume doesn't have effect in certain situations. Besides WASAPI/ASIO/KS/A4All certain drivers or configurations will ignore windows volume control(but not foobars)

 I hear ya on the gain, but for me it is more regulated since my headphones are 250ohm and while I have excellent range between low and high listenable volumes before it gets too insane for my ears it doesn't breach the 50% mark.

 I max out at around the 9th tic, depending on the song. Particularly loud sounds max me out at 7.

 I can run my unpowered speakers at around 50% via head-phone out which is AWESOME, since I could never run them loudly before. They are cheap but are not half bad for their job.

 @Djnagle, I see it like this. I don't know if it is as like you heard but if you lower the volume to certain extents you start to not be able to hear certain nuances or sounds. I will assume that if you are sending this same stream to another device than that is all it will "hear" as well. I could be wrong but that is what I would assume. I don't know how volume effects the actual stream in binary terms, but if a song is a 1d graph the origin being the pure file with no volume changes. The song is a long binary string and as you move left or right it changes whatever it is is going to be output digitally to a device such as the D1. Whether it is just fluff or actual removal of important song bits I couldn't tell you. I don't know that much about what goes on.


----------



## djnagle

Ninjikiran, I suspect that it is more theoretical than real world. I just don't hear a diff. I can say that I am quickly becoming a Headphone guy. My SR60(my first and only pair of cans) have NEVER sounded this good. And, I still can't imagine anything sounding better.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ninjikiran, I suspect that it is more theoretical than real world. I just don't hear a diff. I can say that I am quickly becoming a Headphone guy. My SR60(my first and only pair of cans) have NEVER sounded this good. And, I still can't imagine anything sounding better._

 

It is but in the real world say I am using a single device lowering volume could effectively mute out lesser harder to pick up sounds. Say you complicate things and add another device like the D1 would a sound be missing there. I couldn't tell you since I don't know how much of an effect volume has. If could mute a sound out to the ears but still exist in the stream in perfect unharmed condition. Even in the first scenario the sound could and should still exist but at such a volume your ears cant pick them up.

 There is a whole bunch of what ifs, and scenarios. The only important thing is if it sounds good than what does it matter right?


----------



## djnagle

You bet. It sounds great to me....so there you go. Now I am going to start looking for better headphone.


----------



## _Spanky_

I don't know if anyone is interested but I was reading up on some stuff Uncle Erik (frequent poster here) had to say about power and whatnot. He highly recommends Isolation Transformers before fancy power cords. I started looking around and came across an eBay seller that has some for dirt cheap. I picked up a 2-pack, he sent me 3 and it works great with the Maverick. I don't know if it has done anything to the sound quality since I haven't had time to listen but typically, the Isolation Transformers reduce EMI/RFI noise, eliminate ground loops and something else I can't remember right now. These also have nice plugs/cables on them and have 2 fuses to keep your equipment safe. If you want to try it out, it's a cheap investment:
eBay Seller: emesurplus: isolation, Business Industrial items on eBay.com

 They are rated for 100VA which from what I understand would be around 100 Watts. I asked Ryan and the Maverick uses about 20 Watts so nothing to worry about there.

 I'll post back if I notice any huge sound changes... I kind of doubt it but who knows.


----------



## hodgjy

I just wanted to chime in with a few updates about my D1.

 First, I reported that there was a really loud hum in my headphone jack. Well, this is only true part of the time. I heard the very noticeable hum when I was using my low impedance noise-canceling headphones. When I turned off the noise-canceling, I noticed the hum almost completely disappeared. Turn NC back on, hum comes back. So, it appears there is some feedback loop with the NC that causes the hum. Just to test my hypothesis, I tried my ultra-low impedance in-ear-canal phones (used for iPod), and I could barely hear any trace of hum. If I paused the music and cranked the volume, I could hear a faint hum. At normal listening volume, the hum is gone.

 Lesson learned: NC headphones may not play nice. Or, at least my NC don't play nice.

 Second, I started to develop the same problem another member here developed. When I used the direct bypass button, the left channel dropped out and was very intermittent with a lot of static. After opening a ticket with Ryan, he literally emailed me back in minutes and suggested I push the button a few dozen times. This seemed to have fixed the problem. I did that, and the clipping stopped. It did come back once more, but a few more pushes fixed the problem. Hopefully, it never comes back.

 Lesson learned: The direct bypass button might need to be "worn in." Perhaps there's a rough piece of metal, a burr, or a a shaving that gets in the way of completing the circuit. Just wear it in a little to restore a solid circuit. It seems to have fixed the problem for now. If it comes back again, Ryan told me is still behind the product. I am fairly confident it's a mechanical switch problem and nothing to do with the pcb or amps.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just wanted to chime in with a few updates about my D1.

 First, I reported that there was a really loud hum in my headphone jack. Well, this is only true part of the time. I heard the very noticeable hum when I was using my low impedance noise-canceling headphones. When I turned off the noise-canceling, I noticed the hum almost completely disappeared. Turn NC back on, hum comes back. So, it appears there is some feedback loop with the NC that causes the hum. Just to test my hypothesis, I tried my ultra-low impedance in-ear-canal phones (used for iPod), and I could barely hear any trace of hum. If I paused the music and cranked the volume, I could hear a faint hum. At normal listening volume, the hum is gone.

 Lesson learned: NC headphones may not play nice. Or, at least my NC don't play nice.

 Second, I started to develop the same problem another member here developed. When I used the direct bypass button, the left channel dropped out and was very intermittent with a lot of static. After opening a ticket with Ryan, he literally emailed me back in minutes and suggested I push the button a few dozen times. This seemed to have fixed the problem. I did that, and the clipping stopped. It did come back once more, but a few more pushes fixed the problem. Hopefully, it never comes back.

 Lesson learned: The direct bypass button might need to be "worn in." Perhaps there's a rough piece of metal, a burr, or a a shaving that gets in the way of completing the circuit. Just wear it in a little to restore a solid circuit. It seems to have fixed the problem for now. If it comes back again, Ryan told me is still behind the product. I am fairly confident it's a mechanical switch problem and nothing to do with the pcb or amps._

 

Yea Noise Cancellation headphones are already amplified so it won't work as well. 

 At the same time you can try connecting the NC Headphones to the RCA L/R that way you skip the headphone amplification altogether.

 On another but similar note @ the JVC SU-H1 or w/e it was called. As I said with mines since it is amplified the results were not good. I got a nice hum and disconnected it after a few seconds. I don't want to overload the circuit if that is even possible. I am really looking forward to hearing the results of it now since it is unamp'ed which I might actually look into.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't know if anyone is interested but I was reading up on some stuff Uncle Erik (frequent poster here) had to say about power and whatnot. He highly recommends Isolation Transformers before fancy power cords. I started looking around and came across an eBay seller that has some for dirt cheap. I picked up a 2-pack, he sent me 3 and it works great with the Maverick. I don't know if it has done anything to the sound quality since I haven't had time to listen but typically, the Isolation Transformers reduce EMI/RFI noise, eliminate ground loops and something else I can't remember right now. These also have nice plugs/cables on them and have 2 fuses to keep your equipment safe. If you want to try it out, it's a cheap investment:
eBay Seller: emesurplus: isolation, Business Industrial items on eBay.com

 They are rated for 100VA which from what I understand would be around 100 Watts. I asked Ryan and the Maverick uses about 20 Watts so nothing to worry about there.

 I'll post back if I notice any huge sound changes... I kind of doubt it but who knows._

 

I kind of consider that to be a bit of snake oil for audio, unless you are having actual power problems like EMI or whatever have you. BUT having 2 fuses in place is a definite plus since it protects your equipment.


----------



## _Spanky_

I asked about the possibility of using the tube-out for plugging headphones into and someone said that it's "hot" output and could damage headphones. I don't know how it would react with Noise Canceling headphones or if the SS out is any better. Just a warning though.


----------



## hodgjy

I can confirm the tube pre-amp out is hot. Somewhere in this thread I noted just how much the pre-amp was running hot--something like 8-14 db higher compared to a normal line-level. It clips straight out as it enters my power amp. I use the signal leveler on my amp to control the signal. 

 Hooking the NC phones to the RCA jacks was a good idea, but I doubt I'll ever do it. I bought the D1 mainly as a tube pre-amp for my stereo, but I like the option of using cans sometimes. When I go to the cans, I'll just turn off NC or use the in-canal cans and not worry about hum at all.


----------



## muad

Hmm i think i may have screwed up my opamp order... or maybe not. I ordered this from browndog along with a standoff adapter. This will work for the mav fronts right? I shouldve probably asked before ordering but ....


----------



## _Spanky_

muad, that looks fine. I just don't see how it is orientated, I don't see a half-moon or anything.


----------



## muad

Hmm i wouldnt know... ive never installed an opamp before! When I get it Ill take some pics and get ryans input. Hopefully it works out. Thanks again for a speedy reply 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 edit: well actually i just noticed that it has a square pin mark on the topside of the pcb... so should be pretty straightforward.


----------



## _Spanky_

I would get confirmation before taking my word but I think that the square represents the side that typically has a half-moon design:


----------



## ninjikiran

Not the tube out 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I meant the other output next to the tube. Its a standard RCA output. Regardless I have a pair of noise cancelling headphones as well and they don't work at all with NC on or off w/ amplification. I never use them anymore but the white noise is kind of relaxing once in a while.


----------



## dacseeker

Isolation transformers and filters are not snake oil.
 They only play a part if you have a very high audiophile setup.
 If you don't believe that, and prefer to believe 'science', these isolation transformers are used in labs for example.
 But if you don't hear the difference between 44,1kHz and 48kHz, between volumes in foobar, windows media player or kmixer, don't bother.

 I try yo improve my setup bit per bit in order to educate myself, in order to learn and discover new sensations etc...
 If you just resume everything at what you can hear without reflecting on how do you hear, what do you want to hear/perceive, then don't spend too much.
 But if you go the audiophile path, and it is long path where you co evolve with your setup, then, go cleaning your energy, this is the first step, because it will allow you to hear any improvements in the other rest of the setup (like audio cables).

 About the volume, there is a difference between volume implementation in software. Now, software evolves quickly, but the basics are, if you use soft volume on 16 bit it will reduce quality (from a certain low level), if you use soft volume on 24bit it will have very much less effect. Now there is something called dithering which consists to put 16 bit sound into 24bit sound, work with volume level and then put 24bit sound into 16bit sound.
 For example, in old itunes version, they didn't do dithering, so the volume in itunes reduced quality and it was audible by a lot of people (remenber, strong effect at very low level), after few versions, itunes used dithering and quality was restored.
 There are some reviews saying very bad things about the quality of KMixer in XP, now things seem to have changed in vista or seven.

 Same goes for upsampling. Now some piece of software are really good in upsampling. It beats really pro systems from 10-20 years ago. Don't forget that software has this capability to evolve very quickly. This potential stops when you reach the DA part, after that everything is analogique and it is another domain. I will not care about bit perfect usb since i use the maverick, but i am waiting for 24 bit support in order to upsample everything on the computer (anyway at the end everything is upsampled to 24bit/96k in the maverick).I you want bit perfect dont go maverick, go NOS dac. There is no interest to stay 16bit/44.1k on a computer, keep you cd player and buy a good NOS dac or better buy a very good cd player, there are plenty.

 Based on that, I prefer to use the analogique volume from the maverick or from my integrated amp.

 Just a bit of CR to end this 'heavy' post 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 My wife told me she can now understand some lyrics with the maverick she couldn't hear before when using the cd player. I riped it in lossless format, put it on my ipod, and use the denon ASD-51 dock to take the digital out of the ipod into the maverick !

 Sorry for my english, and thanks to have read this 'heavy' post !

 Don't forget that you can use a trim circuit to remove offset when replacing opamp, which allows you to remove any caps placed after. Caps on audio signals are bad, remove them, it will be clearer ! (apart from the tube out, tubes make caps necessary, but remove any caps from the solid state out).

 And to finish that, a bit about topology, the dac is a chip which convert digital to analog, then you have an I/V converter, which converts current into voltage (not sure the dac in the mav needs that, perhaps it is embedded, normal dacs need this part), then your audio signal is sent to the headphone amp with its own opamp and in parallel sent to the pre out. The headphone amp and the preamp are two circuits in parallel and independent.
 The pre out is composed of two stages, the first one is solid state out with one opamp, and a second stage which is the tube stage. You have one output directly from the first stage (opamp) which is a pure solid state output and you have a second output from the second stage which is the tube output. This last output is a mixed solid state and tube output.
 If you change the opamp in the first stage, you also change the quality of the tube stage. If you change the tube you only change the tube out and nothing else (nor the headphone amp, nor the solid state output).
 So at least, first change the opamp of the preamp with a LM4962, it is very good, it is also cheap, so buy two and change the headphone one ! Then, change that lamp !


----------



## ninjikiran

Some sound cards can be used for bit-perfect playback through Spdif, don't need to use the usb. I already had one that was capable though.


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Second, I started to develop the same problem another member here developed. When I used the direct bypass button, the left channel dropped out and was very intermittent with a lot of static. After opening a ticket with Ryan, he literally emailed me back in minutes and suggested I push the button a few dozen times. This seemed to have fixed the problem. I did that, and the clipping stopped. It did come back once more, but a few more pushes fixed the problem. Hopefully, it never comes back.

 Lesson learned: The direct bypass button might need to be "worn in." Perhaps there's a rough piece of metal, a burr, or a a shaving that gets in the way of completing the circuit. Just wear it in a little to restore a solid circuit. It seems to have fixed the problem for now. If it comes back again, Ryan told me is still behind the product. I am fairly confident it's a mechanical switch problem and nothing to do with the pcb or amps._

 

I did not bother to switch the direct button anymore as I just fix the volume at 3 o'clock. (same level of output as when direct is engaged).

 My only issue is the "cringing" sound that comes with the bass lines when using USB on songs such as hypnotized by ani d'franco, spanish harlem by rebecca pidgeon and heartbeat in on of pink floyd's song on DSOTM album, can remember the title. This is not evident when using SPDIF. Apart from those, I'm happy with my MAV.


----------



## dacseeker

I advise to use the volume at 12 o'clock because the bypass level (3 o'clock) is too hot.


----------



## hototay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dacseeker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I advise to use the volume at 12 o'clock because the bypass level (3 o'clock) is too hot._

 


 well for me 3 o'clock is the equivalent level as when the direct button is engaged. and as per ryan's advise also. thanls anyway.

 as regards to the "cringing" sound, guess what? after I changed my player from Winamp pro to foobar2000, the annoying sound disappeared!


----------



## dacseeker

For me 3 o'clock is also the level corresponding to direct.
 It is why I say that it is better to use it at 12 o'clock because as others have measured it is too hot. If it is too hot, you can do some damage to your amp. That is with the old gain, not the new unit.

 After all, do as you want, I just reported what people have already said in this thread.


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dacseeker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For me 3 o'clock is also the level corresponding to direct.
 It is why I say that it is better to use it at 12 o'clock because as others have measured it is too hot. If it is too hot, you can do some damage to your amp. That is with the old gain, not the new unit.

 After all, do as you want, I just reported what people have already said in this thread._

 

When I run my CD player, I have to set the gain knob to about 8:00 because it is too hot after that. However, when I used my turntable, I use the direct button because the signal is very weak. My turntable has a built-in phono pre-amp, but it's a little underpowered. The direct button boosts the signal enough above the floor level to make an enjoyable listening experience. However, the signal from the turntable through direct is nowhere near being hot. It's still about 6 db below normal line level. I have to bump the volume on my amp.


----------



## dacseeker

I see your point when using analog inputs.

 Here is a link to benchmark wiki with interesting info to setup I hope :

Computer Audio Playback - Setup Guide - Benchmark

 Benchmark makes professional converters.


----------



## Legis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can confirm the tube pre-amp out is hot. Somewhere in this thread I noted just how much the pre-amp was running hot--something like 8-14 db higher compared to a normal line-level. It clips straight out as it enters my power amp. I use the signal leveler on my amp to control the signal. 

 Hooking the NC phones to the RCA jacks was a good idea, but I doubt I'll ever do it. I bought the D1 mainly as a tube pre-amp for my stereo, but I like the option of using cans sometimes. When I go to the cans, I'll just turn off NC or use the in-canal cans and not worry about hum at all._

 


 What do you mean by your amps clips? Man, don't push that direct button if you have Mave connected straight to power amps. Otherwise it outputs full power straight to power amps, you don't want that. If your power amps have gain control make sure to reduce their gain to minimum before hitting that direct button.

 I have tested Mave as a tubebuffer (both in direct mode and in volume controlled mode) and it does not clip my other preamp's inputs. Gain is just normal from both the tube pre out and normal pre out. When I change the RCAs from one output to another, the sound pressure level stays the same.

 I have the newest verson of Mave in which the headphone amp's gain was reduced 20%. It does not hum even the slightest with AKG 141 MkIIs.

 By the way, I have absolutely digged Mave's sound (listened for 1 day). It wipes the floor with E-MU 0404. Absolutely fantastic piece of equipment for the price, and very competitive sound quality with much more expensive DACs.

 Mave's sound has very good clarity with both outputs and bass weights a ton but it still manages to put out good resolution. Sound is full, present and has the size of Ronnie Coleman in year 2005. All this even with quite young piece (10h listening) with stock op-amps and stock tube.

 Only thing that I can point out - which is very, very minor - is the little noise that comes from speakers if you change between digital inputs that have signal coming in. Does this happen also with you? To test it stop all signals from the source(s), connect at least optical and USB cable between mave and source(s), and then just swap inputs from input selector. Is there any "zirp" noises when you change for. ex. from optical to USB or coaxial. This noise does not occur if I change the input between analog inputs.


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Legis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you mean by your amps clips?_

 

I run the tube amp out into a Behringer equalizer and the run the Behringer into my power amp. I use the volume control on my power amp to determine the sound volume actually leaving my speakers. I use the D1 as a pre-amp to give a line-level signal with plenty of floor level and headroom for the power amp to play with when driving my speakers.

 When I run my cd player and use the direct bypass of the Mav D1, the Behringer's sound level indicator is maxed out at +6 db (which is as high as the meter goes, so who knows just how hot the signal is), which is a sound clip. If I turn the direct off and use the volume level on the Mav D1, I can put the sound level back at the 0 db, which gives me plenty of headroom. It gives me 12 db before the first signs of clipping.

 However, when I use my turntable and integrated phono pre-amp, the sound leaving the D1 (in full bypass) and entering the Behringer is at -12 db from the ideal 0 db line signal. I have to turn up the volume on my power amp to properly shape the volume leaving the speakers.

 Bottom line: I use the Mav D1 to try to keep my signal as close to a line level signal for the power amp to drive. To do this, sometimes I use the volume knob. Other times, I use the direct button. The whole time, I'm watching the incoming signal strength as indicated by my Behringer. I try to keep it at 0 db if all possible.


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Legis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Only thing that I can point out - which is very, very minor - is the little noise that comes from speakers if you change between digital inputs that have signal coming in. Does this happen also with you?_

 

Yes, this happens to me, too. It's also been reported by others here as well. I just hit the mute button on my power amp when switching sources. Not a deal breaker for me. My old man had an old Kenwood receiver from the 1970s (solid state) and it made a static hum every time we changed analog sources. So, even non-digital components have issues with energy leaks.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dacseeker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Isolation transformers and filters are not snake oil.
 They only play a part if you have a very high audiophile setup.
 If you don't believe that, and prefer to believe 'science', these isolation transformers are used in labs for example.
 But if you don't hear the difference between 44,1kHz and 48kHz, between volumes in foobar, windows media player or kmixer, don't bother._

 

I hope I didn't imply that isolation transformers do nothing. I know they do benefit electronics otherwise they wouldn't be highly recommended or used so much. I was trying to say that I didn't notice a HUGE improvement. While there may have been one, I might not have noticed it. But all the little things add up I'm sure. WASAPI, quality cables, better opamps, isolation transformer, together they make a helluva difference. For $30 to have 3 of them shipped to me, that's not a big leap in my opinion for something that may or may not make an audible difference but WILL benefit the electronics.

 Also, I also get the momentary static between Coaxial and Optical and possibly USB if I remember right. Not a big deal to me, I just make sure I don't have the volume way up


----------



## millerlitescott

Do any of you guys know if I can disable the direct button on the D1? 

 On top of the switch there is 2 rows of three connection points and I was wondering if you could run a jumper across the connection points and eliminate the switch?

 How could one take it out of the loop or bypass it?

 Now that I look at it a little further it looks like the connector next to the switch has the 3 wires that could be connected to one of the 2 rows of 3 connectors on the top of the switch. Does that sound right?

 Scott


----------



## ninjikiran

We all get the static, but whats more defined is when sample rate switches. Over coax it is subtle and more electronic noise, over optical it is sharp and staticy.

 @Direct button, no need to disable it? Just don't press it lol.

 @Sparky, it was me who understated its importance in audio 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I understand its importance in electronics but I still can't see it affecting actual sound quality. One day i'll give it a try though, for the price even if I can't hear any differences it is nice to have another line of defense against surges. Maybe one day I will find one of these Head-Fi meets, just to see the difference all that expensive stuff actually makes since only hearing is believing for me.


----------



## millerlitescott

I am trying to bypass or eliminate the direct switch from the circuit.


----------



## _Spanky_

I think he wants the switch ON but bypassed. If you don't care about warranty, I would just try jumpering them horizontally with some solder or something. BUT, I would say drop Ryan a email, you'll get a exact solution to what you need faster than it would take for us to speculate.

 Assuming Sparky=Spanky... One way isolation transformers can help a lot (again depends on circuit and the electricity you're using) it can eliminate ground loops which from what I understand, introduce noise into the circuit. I'm also planning on getting a APC AVR module. Not for sound but just to protect my electronics. The isolation transformer I bought has 2 fuses in it and while I may not notice it, it's certainly doing something to help protect and clean.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think he wants the switch ON but bypassed. If you don't care about warranty, I would just try jumpering them horizontally with some solder or something. BUT, I would say drop Ryan a email, you'll get a exact solution to what you need faster than it would take for us to speculate._

 

I am working with millerlitescott now to troubleshoot his problem, looks like we almost found the source of the problem.


----------



## Legis

I measured Mavewrick with RMAA and E-MU 0404 PCI: This is not meant to be comparison of the sound card and Mave, but I'll still tell you that Maverick is much better sounding than E-MU.

*Measured specs of E-MU 0404:*






*Measured specs of Maverick from left to right:*
 1. Optical in, normal out (white line in other pictures)
 2. Optical in, tube out (green line in other pictures)
 3. Analog in, normal out (cyan? line in other pictures)
 4. Analog in, tube out (purple line in other pictures)






*Freq response:*






*Noise floor:*






*Dynamic range:*






*THD% of the DAC (0,012%):*






*THD% of the tube (0,344%):*






*IMD% over freq:*







 Pictures can also be found here: Maverick Audio Tube Magic D1 pictures by LegisActio - Photobucket


 Maverick D1 sounds damn good, and measures well. None actual flaws can be found at least to my eyes.

 - IMD% nor THD% does not rise towards the high frequecies, 
 - Digital input's noise floor is low, and the DAC's specs are met. 
 - when analog inputs are used Maverick does not add any extra noise to the signal (noise floor ~-106dB of E-MU compared to the ~-103 dB of the Maverick)
 - does not add any distortion to analog signals through analog in (E-MU 0,0009% v. Mave 0,0007%
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




), unless wanted.

 All in all, very good results.


----------



## grokit

Sweet post, Legis; thanks for that 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My left channel went out once; I turned the unit off, unplugged it and turned it back on, and it hasn't gone out since. This was shortly after I had turned it on one time after I had wired it into my receiver-controlled ac powerstrip. Before that, I had been leaving it on continuously with no problems.

 My speakers also clipped in direct mode once; it was when the D1 had just been turned on and was through the tube out to my av receiver; I switched to attenuated mode and turned it down a bit. Later after it had warmed up, I switched back to direct mode with no problems.

 IMHO the attenuation is very good with the volume knob; it does not seem to add any noise with my unit.

 So now I leave the D1 on at all times unless I leave overnight, and neither problem has re-asserted itself. I am using the Maverick-upgraded NOS GE tube, your mileage may vary


----------



## ljr

Hi,
 I'm still waiting my D1 for some stupid Portugal DHL trouble. I just want to give my public thanks to Ryan for the totally helpfulness. He is an incredible seller!


----------



## djnagle

Can anyone tell me the gain of the tube outputs???? I am trying design a GM70 amp and would like to know the gain coming into the amp. Cheers.


----------



## tommo21

Got my D1 delivered by DHL today.....listening to it right now. Opened it up and was a bit dissapointed. I ordered the D1 with the GE 5670 Tube, but I only got the chinese stock tube. I've ordered other tubes but I haven't gotten them yet. Sent a ticket to the Maverick support center. Hopefully they will help me out with this. But I will say this.....totally awesome buildquality...I loved this little DAC even before I got it plugged in. Sounds very good even with the stock tube in it. Can't wait to roll other tubes and opamps...


----------



## DannyBuoy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Windows volume control does not effect the level at all. I am running an external HD and going to the D1 via USB._

 

At some point in learning about audio (very general statement I know) I had to take the plunge and actually try different settings, devices, tweaks, etc. myself and A/B it and make a judgement myself on the results. Once I did this I started to get my own opinion of what I thought mattered and what was not discernable by my current understanding of what I was hearing (critical listening takes training and patience and I realize I am very novice at it compared to others with trained or especially gifted natural abilities).

 I would suggest you change the volume on Windows and adjust for it on the D1 or any other DAC/AMP and see for yourself. Speaking for my system configuration, and my ears, I notice a rather big difference when I put the volume at 50% in windows and adjust for volume difference on D1. The additional gain of the preamp on the D1 to compensate for lowered input appears to accentuate the sound in the same way it adds flavor to the sound to begin with. Think of it this way. It you have the volume in Windows at 100% and the D1 is set at 9 o'clock for normal listening levels. You have let's just say for sake of this argument 1.3 Volts of signal going into the DAC. That signal level is increased as it goes into the output section and on it's way to your ears, but at the same time it is "flavored" by the digital signal processing and active circuitry along the way. Now if you reduce the Windows volume to 50% in Windows and the input drops to .9 volts and the D1 volume knob is turned to 11 o'clock to adjust so you hear relatively the same volume levels to your ears; try to now invision the same signal passing through the initial preamp circuitry with a lower signal level to begin with. All of the "preamp" circuit components are dealing with a lower signal level and at some point in the schmatic design the voltage level is finally boosted to the same level going out to your headphones. If you know even a little bit about active circuits including filtering or capacitors, you should be able to understand that a change in levels in the input, will be impacted by the very nature of how an active circuit acts upon the signal to begin with. One of the goals in a design is to minimize the flavoring that an active circuit performs throughout the range of input/output levels accross all frequencies.

 But, like I said, it is up to you as to when you want to take the plunge and begin to build your own experiences and opinions (I am speaking to a few others in this thread as well) and instead of just beliving in the opinion of others you will start to believe in what you are hearing and feeling yourself and you should go through an ah ha moment when you begin to realize you can take control of the sound yourself and begin to tweak it yourself to get to the ideally flavored sound that appeals to you most. If you do not hear a difference when you make a change to something, you may not have given it enough time to notice the difference. Some things like power cords (AC Power cord) or a better USB cable may be so subtle that it takes days, or weeks to be able to sense the differences as your brain has to preform enough sampling of the sound to build a library of sorts that it can reference as data points that reflect the differences in sound signature. Other times you may give it days or weeks and never reach a conclusion at all and that is where you are on the path of training your ear/brain relationship with the language it needs to be able to identify, quantify, and articulate the definition of the qualities of what you are hearing.

 BUT, this is my impression of how this has worked for me, and me only. Someone else may have taken a different path, and uses different techniques or methods and their experience and opinion may be altogether different then mine and theirs is correct for themselves, and mine to myself.

 Hope that helps.


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone tell me the gain of the tube outputs???? I am trying design a GM70 amp and would like to know the gain coming into the amp. Cheers._

 



 Technical Specifications: 

 Input Impedance: Analog 100 kohm
 Digital 75 kohm
 THD: Transistor output - <= 0.001%
 Tube output - <= 0.1%
 Frequency Response: 20Hz – 30kHz +/-1dB
 Maximum Output: 1000mW x 2 (32ohm)
 500mW x 2 (300ohm)
 300mW x 2 (600ohm)
 S/N Ratio: Transistor – 96dB
 Tube – 90 dB


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At some point in learning about audio (very general statement I know) I had to take the plunge and actually try different settings, devices, tweaks, etc. myself and A/B it and make a judgement myself on the results. Once I did this I started to get my own opinion of what I thought mattered and what was not discernable by my current understanding of what I was hearing (critical listening takes training and patience and I realize I am very novice at it compared to others with trained or especially gifted natural abilities).

 I would suggest you change the volume on Windows and adjust for it on the D1 or any other DAC/AMP and see for yourself. Speaking for my system configuration, and my ears, I notice a rather big difference when I put the volume at 50% in windows and adjust for volume difference on D1. The additional gain of the preamp on the D1 to compensate for lowered input appears to accentuate the sound in the same way it adds flavor to the sound to begin with. Think of it this way. It you have the volume in Windows at 100% and the D1 is set at 9 o'clock for normal listening levels. You have let's just say for sake of this argument 1.3 Volts of signal going into the DAC. That signal level is increased as it goes into the output section and on it's way to your ears, but at the same time it is "flavored" by the digital signal processing and active circuitry along the way. Now if you reduce the Windows volume to 50% in Windows and the input drops to .9 volts and the D1 volume knob is turned to 11 o'clock to adjust so you hear relatively the same volume levels to your ears; try to now invision the same signal passing through the initial preamp circuitry with a lower signal level to begin with. All of the "preamp" circuit components are dealing with a lower signal level and at some point in the schmatic design the voltage level is finally boosted to the same level going out to your headphones. If you know even a little bit about active circuits including filtering or capacitors, you should be able to understand that a change in levels in the input, will be impacted by the very nature of how an active circuit acts upon the signal to begin with. One of the goals in a design is to minimize the flavoring that an active circuit performs throughout the range of input/output levels accross all frequencies.

 But, like I said, it is up to you as to when you want to take the plunge and begin to build your own experiences and opinions (I am speaking to a few others in this thread as well) and instead of just beliving in the opinion of others you will start to believe in what you are hearing and feeling yourself and you should go through an ah ha moment when you begin to realize you can take control of the sound yourself and begin to tweak it yourself to get to the ideally flavored sound that appeals to you most. If you do not hear a difference when you make a change to something, you may not have given it enough time to notice the difference. Some things like power cords (AC Power cord) or a better USB cable may be so subtle that it takes days, or weeks to be able to sense the differences as your brain has to preform enough sampling of the sound to build a library of sorts that it can reference as data points that reflect the differences in sound signature. Other times you may give it days or weeks and never reach a conclusion at all and that is where you are on the path of training your ear/brain relationship with the language it needs to be able to identify, quantify, and articulate the definition of the qualities of what you are hearing.

 BUT, this is my impression of how this has worked for me, and me only. Someone else may have taken a different path, and uses different techniques or methods and their experience and opinion may be altogether different then mine and theirs is correct for themselves, and mine to myself.

 Hope that helps._

 

That technique is about right, it only takes me about a week. After which putting on my previous headphones everything they lack seems readily apparent. If the difference is drastic though there are some things I pick up immediately, everything else takes time though.


----------



## djnagle

Gee Danny, maybe I did not give enough information your maybe you missed the base question. I am very satisfied with my ability determine what is good sound for me and how, in gerneral, things work. What I was asking, maybe not directly enough, was why the windows XP volume control (the one at the bottom right of my screen) and (not the volume control in Media Monkey) becomes disabled when I am using the D1?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At some point in learning about audio (very general statement I know) I had to take the plunge and actually try different settings, devices, tweaks, etc. myself and A/B it and make a judgement myself on the results. Once I did this I started to get my own opinion of what I thought mattered and what was not discernable by my current understanding of what I was hearing (critical listening takes training and patience and I realize I am very novice at it compared to others with trained or especially gifted natural abilities).

 I would suggest you change the volume on Windows and adjust for it on the D1 or any other DAC/AMP and see for yourself. Speaking for my system configuration, and my ears, I notice a rather big difference when I put the volume at 50% in windows and adjust for volume difference on D1. The additional gain of the preamp on the D1 to compensate for lowered input appears to accentuate the sound in the same way it adds flavor to the sound to begin with. Think of it this way. It you have the volume in Windows at 100% and the D1 is set at 9 o'clock for normal listening levels. You have let's just say for sake of this argument 1.3 Volts of signal going into the DAC. That signal level is increased as it goes into the output section and on it's way to your ears, but at the same time it is "flavored" by the digital signal processing and active circuitry along the way. Now if you reduce the Windows volume to 50% in Windows and the input drops to .9 volts and the D1 volume knob is turned to 11 o'clock to adjust so you hear relatively the same volume levels to your ears; try to now invision the same signal passing through the initial preamp circuitry with a lower signal level to begin with. All of the "preamp" circuit components are dealing with a lower signal level and at some point in the schmatic design the voltage level is finally boosted to the same level going out to your headphones. If you know even a little bit about active circuits including filtering or capacitors, you should be able to understand that a change in levels in the input, will be impacted by the very nature of how an active circuit acts upon the signal to begin with. One of the goals in a design is to minimize the flavoring that an active circuit performs throughout the range of input/output levels accross all frequencies.

 But, like I said, it is up to you as to when you want to take the plunge and begin to build your own experiences and opinions (I am speaking to a few others in this thread as well) and instead of just beliving in the opinion of others you will start to believe in what you are hearing and feeling yourself and you should go through an ah ha moment when you begin to realize you can take control of the sound yourself and begin to tweak it yourself to get to the ideally flavored sound that appeals to you most. If you do not hear a difference when you make a change to something, you may not have given it enough time to notice the difference. Some things like power cords (AC Power cord) or a better USB cable may be so subtle that it takes days, or weeks to be able to sense the differences as your brain has to preform enough sampling of the sound to build a library of sorts that it can reference as data points that reflect the differences in sound signature. Other times you may give it days or weeks and never reach a conclusion at all and that is where you are on the path of training your ear/brain relationship with the language it needs to be able to identify, quantify, and articulate the definition of the qualities of what you are hearing.

 BUT, this is my impression of how this has worked for me, and me only. Someone else may have taken a different path, and uses different techniques or methods and their experience and opinion may be altogether different then mine and theirs is correct for themselves, and mine to myself.

 Hope that helps._


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MartinV56* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Technical Specifications: 

 Input Impedance: Analog 100 kohm
 Digital 75 kohm
 THD: Transistor output - <= 0.001%
 Tube output - <= 0.1%
 Frequency Response: 20Hz – 30kHz +/-1dB
 Maximum Output: 1000mW x 2 (32ohm)
 500mW x 2 (300ohm)
 300mW x 2 (600ohm)
 S/N Ratio: Transistor – 96dB
 Tube – 90 dB_

 

Thanks Martin, so I will assume that the headphone, SS, and tube outputs are all the same gain?


----------



## MartinV56

Headphone is only SS


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tommo21* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my D1 delivered by DHL today.....listening to it right now. Opened it up and was a bit dissapointed. I ordered the D1 with the GE 5670 Tube, but I only got the chinese stock tube. I've ordered other tubes but I haven't gotten them yet. Sent a ticket to the Maverick support center. Hopefully they will help me out with this. But I will say this.....totally awesome buildquality...I loved this little DAC even before I got it plugged in. Sounds very good even with the stock tube in it. Can't wait to roll other tubes and opamps..._

 

Sorry for the mess up. We will send you a new 5670 tube first thing tomorrow morning


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At some point in learning about audio (very general statement I know) I had to take the plunge and actually try different settings, devices, tweaks, etc. myself and A/B it and make a judgement myself on the results. Once I did this I started to get my own opinion of what I thought mattered and what was not discernable by my current understanding of what I was hearing (critical listening takes training and patience and I realize I am very novice at it compared to others with trained or especially gifted natural abilities)...._

 

DannyBuoy, thanks a lot for sharing your experience with us. In addition, I want to thank you for helping us trouble shooting the USB "bit-perfect" issue, that means a lot to me and the community.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Legis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mave's sound has very good clarity with both outputs and bass weights a ton but it still manages to put out good resolution. Sound is full, present and has the size of Ronnie Coleman in year 2005. All this even with quite young piece (10h listening) with stock op-amps and stock tube.

 Only thing that I can point out - which is very, very minor - is the little noise that comes from speakers if you change between digital inputs that have signal coming in. Does this happen also with you? To test it stop all signals from the source(s), connect at least optical and USB cable between mave and source(s), and then just swap inputs from input selector. Is there any "zirp" noises when you change for. ex. from optical to USB or coaxial. This noise does not occur if I change the input between analog inputs._

 

It is normal for you get this noise. We use "hardware" audio selector and it is the noise from switching between different digital inputs.


----------



## MartinV56

I'm thinking of a NOS Dac 8X1543 with the tubemagic as tube buffer , think that can be experienced in that direction, suggestions are welcome


----------



## B-Dawk20

Hi Guys, I just got done reading the whole thread and I am EXTREMELY interested in this seemingly great piece of machinery. I am just now getting into the world of higher quality audio and I really want to take my next step up. My first step was a pair of Koss Portapros and I was astonished at first coming from ibuds and other cheapo headphones. The next thing I did was get a new sound card because my friend told me it would be a vast improvement over on board sound, even if it was the cheapest one. I was pleasantly surprised as well there. Then I decided that since I was always so happy when I upgraded my sound, I would invest in some low end entry audiophile headphones(AD700) so to say and it was my biggest surprise as of yet. So much was different about music when I first got my AD700's that I wanted to learn so much more.

 Since then, I have been doing all my reasearch and on this forums have found that I should do myself a big favor and before investing into any other thing, I should really get a better setup for my cans before I go get my next pair of headphones. Well, I have been looking for a good deal for an amp and a DAC and this seems like a dream come true but I have some concerns before I save up my money for this thing.

 1. Does this really do [i[that[/i] bad with low impedence cans? I don't want to change the gain since I do plan on getting some of the higher tier headphones like the hd650 and K701 later, but for now I am going to be using the AD700's, Portapros, and the MS1s which I plan on getting next. If it is just you guys being picky(which I hope to be in the future ^_^) I can understand, but I am not there yet and can deal with a smaller issue if this is one of them.

 2. As I said before, I'm still a newbie to this stuff and I am not big on swapping in parts or so yet but is it really recommended to do so? A lot of you guys seem to be hell bent on getting new op amps and tubes for the unit even before you try it out. I'm not trying to insult your methods or anything, I just want to know is it really that big a difference that I would want to upgrade ASAP. If it is a good idea, should I go with the LT1364 & LM4562 combo? You guys seem to really love these two. As for the tube...I'm not sure what a preamp is used for so I don't know what to do with it. Can I use an RCA to female 3.5mm and use it that way?

 3. How big of a difference is burn in with the components? I've never really had the experience of needing to do something like that. I tried to do it with my AD700s but people told me around here that there really isn't a difference with my cans and I think I'm over 200 hours in listening time wise and nowhere through playing them did I hear a big change.

 4. Not really a question about the amp, but right now, I have a problem discerning VBR and 320 from FLAC and in rare cases 192 from FLAC. Will this be much more apparent when Iget an amp and dac?

 Thanks in advance, head-fi guys. You dudes are evil for getting me addicted to this stuff ^_~


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *B-Dawk20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1. Does this really do [i[that_ bad with low impedence cans? I don't want to change the gain since I do plan on getting some of the higher tier headphones like the hd650 and K701 later, but for now I am going to be using the AD700's, Portapros, and the MS1s which I plan on getting next. If it is just you guys being picky(which I hope to be in the future ^_^) I can understand, but I am not there yet and can deal with a smaller issue if this is one of them.[/i]

 

There's just some noise from the high gain. Once you have something playing, you don't really notice it. I've found out that I have media that has noise in it that is louder than what I hear with nothing playing. With that said, Ryan has lowered the gain in the newer models. If you haven't ordered, chances are you'll get a model with reduced gain and thus reduced noise.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *B-Dawk20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2. As I said before, I'm still a newbie to this stuff and I am not big on swapping in parts or so yet but is it really recommended to do so? A lot of you guys seem to be hell bent on getting new op amps and tubes for the unit even before you try it out. I'm not trying to insult your methods or anything, I just want to know is it really that big a difference that I would want to upgrade ASAP. If it is a good idea, should I go with the LT1364 & LM4562 combo? You guys seem to really love these two. As for the tube...I'm not sure what a preamp is used for so I don't know what to do with it. Can I use an RCA to female 3.5mm and use it that way?_

 

Swapping opamps and tubes makes a huge improvement to the unit. However, depending on your experience the bottom stock model may be a huge improvement to you. It's very easy to change the opamps/tube and if you get the chance, I suggest doing so.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *B-Dawk20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_3. How big of a difference is burn in with the components? I've never really had the experience of needing to do something like that. I tried to do it with my AD700s but people told me around here that there really isn't a difference with my cans and I think I'm over 200 hours in listening time wise and nowhere through playing them did I hear a big change._

 

Big. I thought my headphones got better with burn-in but it's really noticeable in the Maverick. Get a couple days or a week on the Maverick and you'll notice a pretty nice difference, especially if you swap the opamps.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *B-Dawk20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_4. Not really a question about the amp, but right now, I have a problem discerning VBR and 320 from FLAC and in rare cases 192 from FLAC. Will this be much more apparent when Iget an amp and dac?_

 

The more you put into your setup, the more you'll hear. You could probably go out and buy $.99 earbuds and not hear the difference between 64kbps MP3 and FLAC. That's just your equipment 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 However it seems like a slipperly slope. There comes a point where the money you put in doesn't go as far. Your first pair of nice headphones will be amazing, the next higher-up pair will have improvements but probably won't amaze you as much.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Thanks for your reply. I hope some others can help me out as well.


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *B-Dawk20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 1. Does this really do [i[that_ bad with low impedence cans? I don't want to change the gain since I do plan on getting some of the higher tier headphones like the hd650 and K701 later, but for now I am going to be using the AD700's, Portapros, and the MS1s which I plan on getting next. If it is just you guys being picky(which I hope to be in the future ^_^) I can understand, but I am not there yet and can deal with a smaller issue if this is one of them.[/i]

 

No, at least in my opinion. I have some really low impedance in-canal style phones. They sound wonderful using the D1. I only run into problems when I use my noise canceling cans--then I can hear a hum when no music is playing. However, the in-canal phones have zero hum.


----------



## DannyBuoy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Gee Danny, maybe I did not give enough information your maybe you missed the base question. I am very satisfied with my ability determine what is good sound for me and how, in general, things work. What I was asking, maybe not directly enough, was why the windows XP volume control (the one at the bottom right of my screen) and (not the volume control in Media Monkey) becomes disabled when I am using the D1?_

 

Sorry that my message seemed to be aimed to helped you in great detail, it was not meant that way. I had read several threads where people seemed to be grasping at understanding what they should focus on and believe in from people suggesting upgrades and tweaks and my hope was to give them feedback to do the listening themselves and reach their own conclusions.

 That said, you question about volume is a good one because it is easy to think of the software in Windows not getting involved in the signal path since we are sending 1's and 0's through the USB to the external sound card/DAC.
 Truth is though that we are not sending the FLAC or MP3 file through the USB port as we would if we were say copying a file to an external drive.

 What we are doing is we are opening the audio file (say MP3) in Media Monkey as a buffered data stream. That data stream is handled by your DSP setting of let's say Direct Sound. Direct Sound is handed the data stream header packets and identifies information about the file that helps it determine what it should do with it. It checks your audio device you set in Media Monkey and reads that it supports 24 Bit/96 KHz and it begins to convert the buffered data stream into data packets which include clock timing info, USB packet data and of course your digital audio and sends it to your chosen audio device (USB Sound card).

 In the features included with the DSP you choose whether it be Direct Sound, WASAPI, KMixer or whatever, you have a set of filters, transitions, and among many other things volume settings that can be exposed and manipulated.

 So while it appears that we are bypassing Windows when we connect a USB DAC the truth is we are just extending out our sound card from being an on-board or PCI based device subject to all the EMI and RF issues of having the sensitive audio device crammed into your PC (as well as the lower quality components) to having it tethered off the USB port. 

 And this is why we have issues with jitter on the USB port (I don't have any audible jitter but I am using Direct Sound and a $5K 8-core workstation) because we are sending musical information in data packets in real time from Media Monkey's DSP to the USB port and reassembling the info from data into an analog tone while trying to keep the timing of the waveform in tack with all the variations that can happen in a time slicing based operating system. As systems get faster and with 2008 and Win7 there is better dedication to the threads (strands actually) that are dedicated in sending data or running the DSP (which the replacement for Direct Sound handles nicely as they splintered off from being part of the DirectX subsystem).

 Hmmm...looking back across this, I hope I addressed your question this time and did not miss the mark again!

 Take care.


----------



## DannyBuoy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_DannyBuoy, thanks a lot for sharing your experience with us. In addition, I want to thank you for helping us trouble shooting the USB "bit-perfect" issue, that means a lot to me and the community.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Ryan, thanks for the compliment but I can tell you I would not have put anytime into this if I did not think your product had the value there for me to invest my time and effort into (which it really does).

 The D1 has replaced my EF2 as my desktop amp by a long shot. I am very, very pleased with the engineering of this device and your commitment to helping make this a great experience for anyone willing to roll the dice and take a chance.

 This has been an excellent learning adventure for me as your D1 is fun to tweak and with people like Bearman, Spanky and others sharing their experiences I find myself looking forward to what the next area of tuning that people are doing (I have 3 op amps arriving tomorrow and a friend is bring in his 3 HDAMs from his Compass and we are going to try them out over the weekend).

 I have enjoyed the D1 with my Denon D5000s, my AD700s and even my Triple.Fi 10s. Low impedance is not an issue with this amp, and if you have higher impedance or less sensitive cans like my buddy's AKG 702s you will find they sound great with this amp as well.
 You really found a great niche with your product and the cost/value proposition is spot on.

 Great job Ryan!


----------



## tommo21

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry for the mess up. We will send you a new 5670 tube first thing tomorrow morning 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thank you for being so understanding and helpful. Also thanks for creating such a marvellous product. I must say I already love this little piece of (tube)magic....both soundwise and lookswise. It will be interesting to se what other tubes and opamps would do to this, as I already feel it absolutely deserves its name....Tube Magic
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm no tube-virgin and has had several other tubeproducts, and rolled tubes like a madman over the years. But at the moment this stands out as probably the best tubeproduct I ever tried. And I've had tubepreamps that's been very expensive....at about $6000.....so at this price it's a steal....keep up the good work Ryan.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_a friend is bring in his 3 HDAMs from his Compass and we are going to try them out over the weekend._

 

RAWR! I wanted to do that first 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Let us know the results and specifics (physical fit, burn-in period of the HDAM's, sound changes and pictures if possible). I still want to try it in mine but I'm quite happy with how the D1 sounds now and last time I checked, Kingwa isn't giving them out for free so I gotta save up a couple $.


----------



## Apollonius of Perga

I think there have been varied opinions on this, but I finally had a chance to use the optical input on my D1 (which I take it uses a different chip than the USB connection -- if this is wrong, I'm just hearing things!). To my ears it's a step up from the USB. Mainly I hear better separation, which gives more "air" around the instruments and voices. (This is especially noticable in jazz and acoustic music.) I'm eager now to get something like the Wadia transport or the Onkyo ND-S1 (which still isn't available in the US) to use as transport for my iPod. (I noticed that Peachtree just released a new Decco model that, like the Wadia, takes the digital files from the iPod. I'm hoping this means there will be a few more options for iPod transports of this sort.)

 Ok, so what do y'all think? USB or optical/coaxial?


----------



## _Spanky_

I think there's another chip involved in USB setup as well as other components I'm sure. That could color the audio in some way but beyond that, I can't really speculate.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think there's another chip involved in USB setup as well as other components I'm sure. That could color the audio in some way but beyond that, I can't really speculate._

 

I didn't notice much difference between USB/Spdif on quick impressions.

 Anyway, regardless of settings you are always going to be outputting 16-bit/44khz out of USB. So if you are listening to songs of a higher sample rate windows will always convert it. Actually I noticed (through the fact that I can visually see the sample rate change in my sound card control panel) anything going through ds will be converted to what the default setting is. And to use WASAPI w/ USb you have to do the same thing with a resample plugin.

 Through spdif this will never happen if you use WASAPI and your sound card supports bit-perfect transport. Visually the master output sample rate changes with the songs default in order to be bit-perfect. With ds I have it set to 96khz and my sound card shows that change whenever I use ds even if I am pushing through a 44khz file.

 That process could potentially color the file(but shouldn't if it is 16/44khz)


 Though in all honesty you need to probably critically listen to notice.


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didn't notice much difference between USB/Spdif on quick impressions.

 Anyway, regardless of settings you are always going to be outputting 16-bit/44khz out of USB.
 -snip-_

 

I thought I read that adaptive USB was capable of 48khz as well, because that is how DVD surround channels are encoded.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, at least in my opinion. I have some really low impedance in-canal style phones. They sound wonderful using the D1. I only run into problems when I use my noise canceling cans--then I can hear a hum when no music is playing. However, the in-canal phones have zero hum._

 

Ok thanks, because I really didn't want my AD700s to not benefit from the D1. Well, that is peace of mind.


----------



## Nakattack

As soon as my Paypal money comes in, I'll be pulling the trigger on this. I'll be pairing it with some MS1i's that will soon be MS1000's, and it will be my first standalone amp/dac combo. I'm excited already 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Will post impressions when it arrives.


----------



## asianfi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *B-Dawk20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok thanks, because I really didn't want my AD700s to not benefit from the D1. Well, that is peace of mind._

 

I think the main difference you'll see (when I had my 700s) is the bass response. Whilst the 700s are bass anemic they really come out of their _shell_ with the SSD out. You'll also notice a small extension in the SS.

 Through tube preamp to my TA15 or AMP the 700s sounded a lot warmer, and the bass was well rounded and punchier.


----------



## Yamnick

Hi Guys,
 Any ideas to OPAMP changing to ideal match with NAD C315BEE + NADC515BEE + Paradigm Monitor 7v5 ??
 What I'm looking is less but good controlled bass, more precise and live middle, less shrills on highs.

 And bonus question - can anybody compare middle tones with the tube (I have upgraded 5670) and solide pre ??

 I hear this that: tube - wide, open, but shallow sound stage with big, not accurate bass and some lacks in the middle; 
 solid: tight, still open, but deep sound stage, less and accurate bass, good middle

 It's only my impression, or the tube makes sound stage wider, but shallow, with imprecise bass and retract middle tones ?


----------



## muad

hahah OMG.... i got my mav today! I can hear rain at the beginning of banana pancakes! and theres a guy singing in tusk! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was wondering how much of a difference a dac could make.... It really doesn't grate my ears in the highs, the way my xfi did. I honestly thought the audioengine 5s were overrated until about 5minutes ago! Thank everyone for answering my questions and thank you very much ryan!


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Yamnick* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Guys,
 Any ideas to OPAMP changing to ideal match with NAD C315BEE + NADC515BEE + Paradigm Monitor 7v5 ??
 What I'm looking is less but good controlled bass, more precise and live middle, less shrills on highs.

 And bonus question - can anybody compare middle tones with the tube (I have upgraded 5670) and solide pre ??

 I hear this that: tube - wide, open, but shallow sound stage with big, not accurate bass and some lacks in the middle; 
 solid: tight, still open, but deep sound stage, less and accurate bass, good middle

 It's only my impression, or the tube makes sound stage wider, but shallow, with imprecise bass and retract middle tones ?_

 

For something that the tubes are characterized is by excellent management of the midrange frequencies, such voices.


----------



## Amatsu

Hello. Anyone from Europe has imported the Maverick? 
 I don't have a lot of experience importing and I would hate to have to pay customs since my budged is already at the limit here. I take it there aren't any European's vendors right?

 Anyway I will make the purchase next month so I'm still looking at various amp/dacs.


----------



## Uroboros

Just want to confirm that the OPAMP furthest from the tube is the one used for the headphone output. 

 Correct?

 Also did anyone have any trouble removing said OPAMP? I went to replace mine and found that one leg was somehow stuck. I can't see how one particular leg could be stuck like this. Since it had to be smoothly inserting into the socket in the first place.

 Anyhow since the other pins eventually started to bend I had no choice but pull the OPAMP out. Thankfully the only thing that broke was the pin and a small piece seems to be stuck in the hole. 

 Thankfully the new OPAMP went in and works (assuming the answer to my first questions is affirmative.); but that leg will never go into as far as the other ones since the hole is partly blocked.

 Sounds good though


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Uroboros* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just want to confirm that the OPAMP furthest from the tube is the one used for the headphone output. 

 Correct?

 Also did anyone have any trouble removing said OPAMP? I went to replace mine and found that one leg was somehow stuck. I can't see how one particular leg could be stuck like this. Since it had to be smoothly inserting into the socket in the first place.

 Anyhow since the other pins eventually started to bend I had no choice but pull the OPAMP out. Thankfully the only thing that broke was the pin and a small piece seems to be stuck in the hole. 

 Thankfully the new OPAMP went in and works (assuming the answer to my first questions is affirmative.); but that leg will never go into as far as the other ones since the hole is partly blocked.

 Sounds good though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

To your question, yes the furthest one from the tube is the headphone opamp. The legs of the LF353N's that are installed seem to have been handled with pliers or something. Mine were kinda dinged and bent and it took a little more force than what I was comfortable with but I didn't care too much since I had several replacements 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I used needle-nosed pliers to pull mine out. Good to hear yours works even after the little mishap.


----------



## Uroboros

I kinda wondered if the original OPAMPs had been first inserted into the sockets and then sockets soldered on the board. Maybe a little solder flowed into the leg. 

 As long as it works I'll try not touch it or look at it funny lest I mess things up


----------



## _Spanky_

You bring up a good point, I hadn't thought of that. I'm thinking now that the opamps were soldered directly onto the board, desoldered, socket installed and then put into the socket. In fact, I'm inspired to take pictures:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...o/DSC05242.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...o/DSC05244.JPG

 It goes:
 LF353N | New LM4562 | LF353N


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You bring up a good point, I hadn't thought of that. I'm thinking now that the opamps were soldered directly onto the board, desoldered, socket installed and then put into the socket._

 

You are right. They are soldered onto the board first ( original design is to have OpAmp soldered to the PCB directly). I changed my mind later to have socket installed, therefore, have to take the OpAmp from the board and install the socket.


----------



## _Spanky_

Booyah! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is this extra step going to be removed in the newer batches? i.e. socket soldered first?


----------



## Uroboros

_Spanky_;6361840 said:
			
		

> You bring up a good point, I hadn't thought of that. I'm thinking now that the opamps were soldered directly onto the board, desoldered, socket installed and then put into the socket. In fact, I'm inspired to take pictures:
> 
> Your guess was better than mine so I guess you get the prize!


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Booyah! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Is this extra step going to be removed in the newer batches? i.e. socket soldered first?_

 

Sure, once we have used all the stock PCB board


----------



## _Spanky_

Ryan, I don't think it's necessary to open a support ticket and a public answer would be cool as well, have you thought about offering a opamp-upgraded version like the tube-upgraded one? I think the LT1364 and LM4562 is a well-liked combo. I would imagine being in China that it might be harder to get ahold of those. But there's people that would want that but wouldn't want to open the D1.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *asianfi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the main difference you'll see (when I had my 700s) is the bass response. Whilst the 700s are bass anemic they really come out of their shell with the SSD out. You'll also notice a small extension in the SS.

 Through tube preamp to my TA15 or AMP the 700s sounded a lot warmer, and the bass was well rounded and punchier._

 

Do you think if I tubed out to a 3.5mm it would sound good?


----------



## ninjikiran

Out of curiosity is there any way to properly use the tube output with headphones? Like through an amp or something without burning out your cans as mentioned previously in this thread. I just want to hear the contrast in sound more for fun than use.


----------



## ajuztam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Amatsu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello. Anyone from Europe has imported the Maverick? 
 I don't have a lot of experience importing and I would hate to have to pay customs since my budged is already at the limit here. I take it there aren't any European's vendors right?

 Anyway I will make the purchase next month so I'm still looking at various amp/dacs._

 


 imported and piad 18 euros customs to DHL.

 tested a couple of different opamps and found AD8599 for analog out and 627BP for headphone amp sound a lot better than stock ones.


----------



## Apollonius of Perga

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Out of curiosity is there any way to properly use the tube output with headphones? Like through an amp or something without burning out your cans as mentioned previously in this thread. I just want to hear the contrast in sound more for fun than use._

 

I run my Maverick into an integrated amplifier from the tube out, mostly to run my speakers. But sometimes I use headphones through my integrated's headphone amp. Works very well, and I can definitely hear the difference from the Maverick's own (un-tubed) headphone amp.


----------



## henriks

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ajuztam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_imported and piad 18 euros customs to DHL.

 tested a couple of different opamps and found AD8599 for analog out and 627BP for headphone amp sound a lot better than stock ones._

 

i expect to add 40% in tax and postal handling fee, or if i get lucky ZERO..


----------



## boomy3555

I may get chastized for this but I figured a WTB post isn't a conflict of interest. I'm looking to buy a D! new version of the Maverick to take to meets for others to compare it side by side with the Zero and Compass I already have.
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/wt...ac-amp-469834/

 MODs please free to delete if you feel this is improper.
 Boomy


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ajuztam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_imported and piad 18 euros customs to DHL.

 tested a couple of different opamps and found AD8599 for analog out and 627BP for headphone amp sound a lot better than stock ones._

 

I know there's only 2 opamps and one of them is for the DAC so... I'm not sure what you're saying. I don't think the analog out uses a opamp but I could be wrong on that.

 & Hi Boomy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Still got your Zero huh? I don't think the Maverick has been around long enough to have people wanting to re-sell theirs, I could be wrong though. There's either DOA ones (haven't heard of any) or people that are still listening to it. Good luck though.


----------



## boomy3555

Thanks.. Just thought I'd give anybody suffering from upgraditis a chance to sell me thiers before I have Ryan ship out a new one.


----------



## _Spanky_

Ah, well, in case you haven't read the entire thread, there's technically 3 versions out. 

 The first is the basic unit without opamp sockets (probably the one you would receive if you bought a used one). 
 The second has a design change including a line-in jack in the front and opamp sockets (has been out for maybe a month and a half?). 
 The third has the gain mod added. 

 I believe the 3rd is shipping now but I would ask Ryan before ordering just in case he has a few of the old ones left.


----------



## boomy3555

I think I may just " Bite The Bullet" and get the newest version new from Ryan. I really want to be able to give the people at the meet a chance to hear the latest version side by side with the Zero and Compass.


----------



## djnagle

I took my D1 to a SMAC(Southeast Michigan Audio Club) meet yesterday and there where 20 guys there that all liked it. I thought a friend of mine was going to bring over a Raytheon and WE 5670 tubes but he forgot them.

 we A/B the D1 with a very expensive Rotel tube CD player. We were playing the CD and a laptop hooked up to the D1 playing the same song in FLAC. Everyone agreed the D1/laptop sounded better than the CD player. 

 Ryan: you should have some orders coming your way!!!

 I am in the middle of designing and building a 6SL7/GM70 SET amp so the opamp upgrade will have to wait. That said, I'm not sure it needs it. I am digging this little guy as is. Cheers.


----------



## djnagle

Thanks Danny. I am starting to understand what you said. I am an old vacuum tube guy so the whole digital music server is new to me. Also, I really like my headless computer next to my system going into my D1. Sounds better than my CD player. Didn't mean to be snippy. I just reread my post and it sounded that way. 

 Anyway, thanks for the explanation. Cheers.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry that my message seemed to be aimed to helped you in great detail, it was not meant that way. I had read several threads where people seemed to be grasping at understanding what they should focus on and believe in from people suggesting upgrades and tweaks and my hope was to give them feedback to do the listening themselves and reach their own conclusions.

 That said, you question about volume is a good one because it is easy to think of the software in Windows not getting involved in the signal path since we are sending 1's and 0's through the USB to the external sound card/DAC.
 Truth is though that we are not sending the FLAC or MP3 file through the USB port as we would if we were say copying a file to an external drive.

 What we are doing is we are opening the audio file (say MP3) in Media Monkey as a buffered data stream. That data stream is handled by your DSP setting of let's say Direct Sound. Direct Sound is handed the data stream header packets and identifies information about the file that helps it determine what it should do with it. It checks your audio device you set in Media Monkey and reads that it supports 24 Bit/96 KHz and it begins to convert the buffered data stream into data packets which include clock timing info, USB packet data and of course your digital audio and sends it to your chosen audio device (USB Sound card).

 In the features included with the DSP you choose whether it be Direct Sound, WASAPI, KMixer or whatever, you have a set of filters, transitions, and among many other things volume settings that can be exposed and manipulated.

 So while it appears that we are bypassing Windows when we connect a USB DAC the truth is we are just extending out our sound card from being an on-board or PCI based device subject to all the EMI and RF issues of having the sensitive audio device crammed into your PC (as well as the lower quality components) to having it tethered off the USB port. 

 And this is why we have issues with jitter on the USB port (I don't have any audible jitter but I am using Direct Sound and a $5K 8-core workstation) because we are sending musical information in data packets in real time from Media Monkey's DSP to the USB port and reassembling the info from data into an analog tone while trying to keep the timing of the waveform in tack with all the variations that can happen in a time slicing based operating system. As systems get faster and with 2008 and Win7 there is better dedication to the threads (strands actually) that are dedicated in sending data or running the DSP (which the replacement for Direct Sound handles nicely as they splintered off from being part of the DirectX subsystem).

 Hmmm...looking back across this, I hope I addressed your question this time and did not miss the mark again!

 Take care._


----------



## B-Dawk20

Well, though I have not pulled the trigger yet, I have decided to stick with the maverick D1 as my first amp when I'm done saving up for it. Even after a lot of people gave me plenty of good suggestions it came down to this and the hifiman EF2. The deal breaker was the diversity of the D1 and the ability to be future proof. If I ever wanted another amp in the future, this could still be a standalone DAC. That and the combo of solid state and tubes gives me a chance to try two kinds of amp sound. The DAC in the D1 also seemed to have stronger approval than the EF2. All and all, I just couldn't say no to this beauty. Next step is the D1 and a new pair of headphones that offer me a different side of sound and a more "fun" listening experience.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Apollonius of Perga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I run my Maverick into an integrated amplifier from the tube out, mostly to run my speakers. But sometimes I use headphones through my integrated's headphone amp. Works very well, and I can definitely hear the difference from the Maverick's own (un-tubed) headphone amp._

 

Thanks for the input, I figured this much but I wasn't completely sure.


----------



## hodgjy

I've been playing around with my D1 for almost two weeks now, and I'm ready to post my final conclusions. Hint: I like.

 My "old" setup was a Sony DVD player patched through a Behringer equalizer and then input into my amp. The combination of my speakers and DVD player as my music system left the music a little wanting. It sounded dry, muffled, flat, and too bright. The sound stage was only as big as the speakers. So, I patched the equalizer so I could custom edit certain bandwidths to make the music more listener friendly. While this helped and was more tolerable, it wasn't what I would call accurate or pure. 

 So, then I added the D1. I ran the DVD player into the D1 to do the D/A conversion. This immediately helped, although small and subtle. When I hooked in the D1, I decided to still patch in the equalizer because it had a tone defeat button, so I thought I could just hit the button to hear a pure D1 signal and then compare it to my own custom edited sound.

 The D1 did help. Sounds were more laid back. The sound stage was a little better. The D1 did make subtle changes. They were changes for the better, but still nothing to send home postcards about.

 Then, this weekend, I was playing around with my system. I decided to put better audio interlinks between the D1 and my amp and speakers. Then, I decided to not run cables through the equalizer.

 This made a huge difference. I did several other tests and configurations, including using the equalizer and not using it.

 The bottom line is this: While the equalizer helped my system at first to make the best of a flat on board DVD DAC and bright speakers, the equalizer became the weak link in my D1-based system. It was literally a signal stealer. It noticeably degraded the audio signal.

 When not using the equalizer, and running the tube-out into my amp, the sound is much better. It sounds more natural. It sounds more pure. While I'm still limited by not using $4000 speakers, I think my system is as good as it can be. The D1 really does bring out the best in my system.

 The sound stage isn't wider from left-to-right, but it's definitely thicker. I can hear and feel all kinds of sounds between me and the speakers. Before adding the D1 (and then when using the D1 with the equalizer), the sound stage had no thickness. The sound was only "on" the speakers.

 Voices are more clear. Before, they were buried in the background tones. Now, there is clear separation from the background music.

 The bass isn't as overpowering. Before, I cranked up the 60 hz equalizer slider to hear some bass (it was a poor signal). Now, the bass is there, is more refined, but does not overpower. This is more musical. It's how the artists intended their music to be.

 I don't have all the terminology and lingo, but in the end, the way my system is set up is more musical. More pure. More like what the artists intended it to. I did some comparisons, and it's now very close in sound to using headphones. Everything seems balanced and like it should be.

 So, the take home lesson is this:
 Signal-robbing devices like patched-in equalizers and lower quality interconnects really do make a difference. Ditch those possible sources of degradation to really get the most out of your D1. I never thought interconnects made a difference on sub-$4000 systems. I thought wrong. Now my system is singing.


----------



## Apollonius of Perga

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, the take home lesson is this:
 Signal-robbing devices like patched-in equalizers and lower quality interconnects really do make a difference. Ditch those possible sources of degradation to really get the most out of your D1. I never thought interconnects made a difference on sub-$4000 systems. I thought wrong. Now my system is singing._

 

As someone on this thread suggested many pages ago, mid-fi is a much bigger step up from lo-fi than from mid-fi to break-the-bank hi-fi. Good quality interconnects can make a very noticable difference from the crappy ones that come with consumer grade components. But the differences between $40 and $400 interconnects are probably much harder to hear.


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Apollonius of Perga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As someone on this thread suggested many pages ago, mid-fi is a much bigger step up from lo-fi than from mid-fi to break-the-bank hi-fi. Good quality interconnects can make a very noticable difference from the crappy ones that come with consumer grade components. But the differences between $40 and $400 interconnects are probably much harder to hear._

 

I went from the $0.05 interconnects that come with consumer electronics to the "premium" $2.00 interconnects from Monoprice, which by all accounts are the same cable type and quality as those $40 "Monster" cables. I can definitely hear a difference. But, like you said, with my system, I would never hear the difference when using $400 interconnects.


----------



## Apollonius of Perga

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I went from the $0.05 interconnects that come with consumer electronics to the "premium" $2.00 interconnects from Monoprice, which by all accounts are the same cable type and quality as those $40 "Monster" cables. I can definitely hear a difference. But, like you said, with my system, I would never hear the difference when using $400 interconnects._

 

Didn't know about Monoprice. Their products look pretty good. I saw that they sell the same optical cable that I got from Parts Express for about $5.00 and seems to be of rather good quality -- sounds great at least!


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Apollonius of Perga* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But the differences between $40 and $400 interconnects are probably much harder to hear._

 

More like nonexistent.

 I want to make this extremely clear. If you're buying interconnects to make your mid-fi system sound better, skip it.


----------



## _Spanky_

I came across another thread where they made custom icons for Windows Vista/7's sound panel. I thought I would share the one I made for the D1:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f46/wi...ml#post6364286


 *EDIT*
 Back on the topic. I was feeling crafty and decided I needed some nicer interconnects since the ones I had patched were ones that I had laying around. So I made a Markertek order and dropped $25 on parts to build me a DIY SPDIF with RG-6 and Neutrik RCA connectors, mini-RCA analog with Mogami Neglex and Neutrik connectors, and 12' headphone extension cable again with Mogami Neglex and Neutrik connectors. I don't know if they make a difference but in doing that I know I won't get upgradeitis at least for a long time since I know I not only spent money but time on them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I mostly bought them since I had never really made cables before and thought it would be fun, also now I have cables the exact length I need.
 Here's a pic of my D1 cable lines if anyone is interested:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...o/DSC05219.JPG


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheBigCW* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I want to make this extremely clear. If you're buying interconnects to make your mid-fi system sound better, skip it._

 

Going from the el-cheapo included interconnects that are basically two strands of copper wire to the thick $2.00 Monoprice interconnects really did make difference. The sound is less "choked." I noticed the biggest difference when putting a better interconnect on my sub woofer. The bass went from thin to better. How much better? It's all subjective, but I could hear a little more life in it.

 So, IMHO, the jump from $0.05 interconnects to $2.00 interconnects is real. However, I will agree with you that the jump from $2.00 interconnects to $400 is snake oil and a marketing scam.


----------



## hodgjy

But we're getting a little off topic from my original post and intention. The equalizer was a major kink in my system and noticeably degraded the sound. When using the "defeat" button, the sound was not unaltered from the original. The fact the signal still traveled through the device made it take a hit. Removing it opened up the sound. This had a much larger impact than the interconnects ever will.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, IMHO, the jump from $0.05 interconnects to $2.00 interconnects is real. However, I will agree with you that the jump from $2.00 interconnects to $400 is snake oil and a marketing scam._

 

I couldn't agree more really. I might spend up to $10 on a cable but I'd much rather afford new headphones than a $400 cable.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But we're getting a little off topic from my original post and intention. The equalizer was a major kink in my system and noticeably degraded the sound._

 

Glad you figured that out. I would suggest to anyone to remove un-necessary components and to try different configurations to find either better and cleaner sound or at least sound that is colored to your liking.


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Glad you figured that out. I would suggest to anyone to remove un-necessary components and to try different configurations to find either better and cleaner sound or at least sound that is colored to your liking._

 

This is something that I normally pay attention to, but I admit that I had a total brain breakdown and it didn't occur to me this time. When I patched in my equalizer using cheap interconnects BEFORE I ever got my D1, that combo improved the sound quality. But with better interconnects and the D1, the equalizer choked the gains made by the D1. I guess removing unnecessary pathways and components is more than just snake oil.

 At least I figured it out before I did something stupid like buy a new amp or speakers.


----------



## Nakattack

I understand that a signal from a truntable plugged into the RCA-in is very weak, so if I purchased a standalone headphone am in the future, I could use the tube preamp into the headphone amp in?


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nakattack* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I understand that a signal from a truntable plugged into the RCA-in is very weak, so if I purchased a standalone headphone am in the future, I could use the tube preamp into the headphone amp in?_

 

I'm kind of confused on your wording here...

 But, you're asking if you go from turntable--Mav D1--to headphone amp?

 I would say no. No where in the chain are you getting a phono amplifier. The turntable needs a big boost that line-level doesn't give it.

 You could go turntable--phono-D1-headphone amp, but that's a lot of parts in a chain that will degrade signal.

 So, I would just go Turntable--phono--headphone amp. Get the best phono and headphone amp you can afford. Keep it simple and as short of a chain as possible.


----------



## Horizons

Just got my Mav yesterday. Popped in two LT1364s and one JAN GE 5670W. Nice layout inside and the opamp sockets are a nice touch. Build quality is excellent for the price but I would not go overboard here. It looks and feels like a $500 piece, not a $2K piece.

 Here is the system my Mav is used in:

 160 GB iPod classic (Apple lossless files)
 Onkyo iPod Transport ND-S1 
 Belden 1694A 50 ohm coax
 Mav with LT1364s and JAN GE 5670W tube
 Classe CA-100 power amp
 Tube output to Martin Logan Aeon-i's
 Generic output summed to Martin Logan Dynamo sub

 On balance, this is the best DAC I have ever heard in my system. I'm not sure if it is the DAC, tube, LT1364's or a combination of all. This DAC/pre has superb resolution, added dimensionality of tubes, and is still clean, quick, and transparent. It is not hyperbole to say that it sounds magic. It does. It has superb resolution with the magic of tubes. Mids and highs are immaculate and airy. I could go on with positive superlatives but let's jump to the negatives: 

 1. It is slightly warm in the lower mids. Not sure if this is the tube, but in any case it is not a negative quality for me but YMMV.

 2. There is a minor turn off thump but it's not a major issue for me in my system.

 3. The pre does run HOT on the gain. At 10 o'clock on the volume pot my system plays extremely loud. 12 o'clock would melt my Martin Logans.

 That's it folks. I would rate the MAV a screaming bargain and I will probably buy a backup unit just in case. Had a slight problem with DHL delivery but communication from Ryan was very good.

 P.S. I am not much of a phonehead but my Senns sounded fine on the Mav. Drove them very well, no issues whatsoever.


----------



## jpstereo

Would love to order a couple of LT1364s for mine but what is the best source? Looks like you can order directly from Linear Technologies but they list four different models. Which one do I get?

Linear Technology - Purchase Linear Products

 Can someone help me find a source or direct me to the correct model from LT?

 Many thanks,

 JP


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpstereo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone help me find a source or direct me to the correct model from LT?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like them... Here's the exact part numbers I'm using in case you get confused like I did 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 LT1364CN8#PBF
 LM4562NA/NOPB

 Enjoy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hope this helps.


----------



## specto

I think I would buy one if I had a switch to change between hi and lo gain.


----------



## millerlitescott

Ok for clarity.

 I really only listen to the Pre-amp portion of the D1. How many op amps do I need and which one? 

 Is it the LT1364 or LM4562? Where should I purchase it?

 Does any one have any of the WE 396A taht they would like to sell?

 Thanks,

 Scott


----------



## Remains

Well I received a couple LT1364's and a LM4562 in the mail today, but I'm kind of hesitant to swap them in because I'm just enjoying the maverick so much the way it is! I've put around 800+ hours on it now and the sound still seems to be changing. I recently noticed that the lower end has really come out to a point where I like it and the soundstage seems to have improved as well. Maybe it's all placebo but it sure feels like burn in.


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Remains* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I've put around 800+ hours on it now and the sound still seems to be changing. I recently noticed that the lower end has really come out to a point where I like it and the soundstage seems to have improved as well. Maybe it's all placebo but it sure feels like burn in._

 

I don't think it's placebo. I read somewhere that small tubes, like the one in the D1, have a "magic burn in" of 22 hours, with things really settling down after 50. I have about 100 on mine, and things are still settling down each day I fire it up. So, I think due to the nature of tubes, they will continue to change throughout their entire life until they die.


----------



## Remains

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think it's placebo. I read somewhere that small tubes, like the one in the D1, have a "magic burn in" of 22 hours, with things really settling down after 50. I have about 100 on mine, and things are still settling down each day I fire it up. So, I think due to the nature of tubes, they will continue to change throughout their entire life until they die._

 

I'm not using the tube though. The only thing I have been using the maverick for is headphone out to my d2000's. I'm not entirely sure but AFAIK it will completely skip the tube for HP out?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Remains* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm not entirely sure but AFAIK it will completely skip the tube for HP out?_

 

Yup. The only way to use the tube is with the Tube Pre-Out in the back. (I'm not sure on the wording)


----------



## alexofc69

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup. The only way to use the tube is with the Tube Pre-Out in the back. (I'm not sure on the wording)_

 

So, you dont get any tube warmth juiciness to the headphones??? This sucks. I was going to pull the trigger on a D1. I wanted to use a tube amp on my Audio Technica ATH AD-700s. Tube amps warm them up nicely. Hmmm..may hold off.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *alexofc69* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, you dont get any tube warmth juiciness to the headphones??? This sucks. I was going to pull the trigger on a D1. I wanted to use a tube amp on my Audio Technica ATH AD-700s. Tube amps warm them up nicely. Hmmm..may hold off._

 

I'm like 90% sure the tube doesn't touch the headphone out. I don't think I've ever asked Ryan directly about it but it seems to be the consensus on the forums. I do know that the headphone out works immediately after turning the unit on however my speakers need like 30 seconds, I'm pretty sure this is the tube.


----------



## alexofc69

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm like 90% sure the tube doesn't touch the headphone out. I don't think I've ever asked Ryan directly about it but it seems to be the consensus on the forums. I do know that the headphone out works immediately after turning the unit on however my speakers need like 30 seconds, I'm pretty sure this is the tube._

 

 Yeah, thats the tube out. Hmm...maybe I will wait. Maybe Ryan will add the tube to the headphones in a later model. That would be nice.


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *alexofc69* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, you dont get any tube warmth juiciness to the headphones??? This sucks. I was going to pull the trigger on a D1. I wanted to use a tube amp on my Audio Technica ATH AD-700s. Tube amps warm them up nicely. Hmmm..may hold off._

 

Not to hijack the thread, but if you really want a tube headphone amp (and added usb dac) you could look into the Glow Audio Amp One. It's more spendy, but an awesome tube headphone amp from everything I've read.


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nakattack* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I understand that a signal from a truntable plugged into the RCA-in is very weak, so if I purchased a standalone headphone am in the future, I could use the tube preamp into the headphone amp in?_

 

Some moving-magnet phono stages/amps made for pro-audio applications have more than one output, so you can use one for a headphone amp, one for a receiver, one for an ADC, etc. My Radial J33 has mini & full size stereo jacks, RCAs, and even a pair of balanced XLRs


----------



## Nakattack

Thanks for the advice on the phono outputs/inputs guys, I'm a fish out of water in that area. Just ordered a D1, can't wait for it to arrive!


----------



## igotyofire

was going to order the zero, but QC concerned me, then was going to order the music monitor, but lack of features & inputs discerned me, this by far seemed to be the most versatile in the price range so when ahead and plugged today!


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *igotyofire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_was going to order the zero, but QC concerned me, then was going to order the music monitor, but lack of features & inputs discerned me, this by far seemed to be the most versatile in the price range so when ahead and plugged today!_

 

you won't go wrong with this purchase.

 it is almost unbeatable considering its price/performance ratio.


----------



## alexofc69

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not to hijack the thread, but if you really want a tube headphone amp (and added usb dac) you could look into the Glow Audio Amp One. It's more spendy, but an awesome tube headphone amp from everything I've read._

 

 Ive had my eye on the Glow for a year or so.


----------



## vvaffles

I ordered my D1 and it shipped from china on Monday, then arrived on Wednesday. how is that for international shipping?


----------



## watusi

Any thoughts how well this amp matches up with a pair of Ultrasone Pro 750's?


----------



## doctorcilantro

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yup. The only way to use the tube is with the Tube Pre-Out in the back. (I'm not sure on the wording)_

 


 Is it possible to use the Tube Pre-out and activate the volume bypass so I can use the volume pot on my Raptor.

 I may pick one of these up. I have an assortment of 5670 tubes here to try.

 thanks
 DC


----------



## igotyofire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you won't go wrong with this purchase.

 it is almost unbeatable considering its price/performance ratio.




_

 

I was curious IF EAX still works on video games if i use the usb input on the DAC? or do i need a sound card coaxial/spidf output or somthing? because right now im trying to get around the onboard sound, heh.


----------



## doctorcilantro

Anyone tested WASAPI with this DAC? ryan says some interfaces may cause it to get capped at 44-48kHz. I'd like to use WASAPI in J. River MC14.

 Anyone using MC14 or care to download the trail and test it?

 thanks!
 DC


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *doctorcilantro* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone tested WASAPI with this DAC? ryan says some interfaces may cause it to get capped at 44-48kHz. I'd like to use WASAPI in J. River MC14.

 Anyone using MC14 or care to download the trail and test it?

 thanks!
 DC_

 

D1 will work with J.River via Direct Sound to archive bit-perfect and 24/96.
 Check out the detail walkthru by DannyBuoy:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...4/index39.html


----------



## doctorcilantro

Thanks for the link. Must show up as a windows sound device if DS works; maybe WASAPI will too. 

 DC


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *doctorcilantro* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it possible to use the Tube Pre-out and activate the volume bypass so I can use the volume pot on my Raptor.

 I may pick one of these up. I have an assortment of 5670 tubes here to try.

 thanks
 DC_

 

That's what I do via the Direct button with my powered speakers. The tube (and I believe the solidstate) output aren't affected by the volume control on the D1 then.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *igotyofire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was curious IF EAX still works on video games if i use the usb input on the DAC? or do i need a sound card coaxial/spidf output or somthing? because right now im trying to get around the onboard sound, heh._

 

No, you need a sound card that supports EAX. View my setup for an example.


----------



## blitzpirate

anyone used a ge 5 star 5670 triple mica black plate d getter on this dac yet?


----------



## Amatsu

Spanky, if you don't mind, could you tell me more details about the DIY Spdif on the creative card? I have an Xtreme Music and if I want spdif out I need to buy one of the two modules available but they are expensive.


----------



## Eugene86

I've been reading this thread but there's just so much info. I just want to ask one something:
 I want to get this amp/dac so that I can connect it to my computer via the USB port to drive my HD595's. What kind of sound quality am I looking at? The tube doesn't power the headphone out plug? Does this greatly affect the sound quality?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Amatsu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spanky, if you don't mind, could you tell me more details about the DIY Spdif on the creative card? I have an Xtreme Music and if I want spdif out I need to buy one of the two modules available but they are expensive._

 

I will PM you when I gather info 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Eugene86* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been reading this thread but there's just so much info. I just want to ask one something:
 I want to get this amp/dac so that I can connect it to my computer via the USB port to drive my HD595's. What kind of sound quality am I looking at? The tube doesn't power the headphone out plug? Does this greatly affect the sound quality?_

 

This DAC is a great value for the money. The tube output isn't really here nor there for the headphone output. It doesn't affect the sound quality either way really. The headphone out uses opamps and while the stock ones are ok (shrill, but apparently calm down with burn-in) it is wise to upgrade those. Still, for the money, the stock, standard unit has proven to be an excellent choice.


----------



## Eugene86

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This DAC is a great value for the money. The tube output isn't really here nor there for the headphone output. It doesn't affect the sound quality either way really. The headphone out uses opamps and while the stock ones are ok (shrill, but apparently calm down with burn-in) it is wise to upgrade those. Still, for the money, the stock, standard unit has proven to be an excellent choice._

 

Is it worth getting the upgraded tube if I'm only using the headphones?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Eugene86* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it worth getting the upgraded tube if I'm only using the headphones?_

 

Only if you plan to use the Tube Pre Out in the future with a quality system on the end. You could buy a tube amp for headphones and connect it to the Tube Pre Out in the back, that would show a need for an upgraded tube in the D1. If you only plan to use the headphone out of the D1, there's no need for the upgraded tube.


----------



## Eugene86

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Only if you plan to use the Tube Pre Out in the future with a quality system on the end. You could buy a tube amp for headphones and connect it to the Tube Pre Out in the back, that would show a need for an upgraded tube in the D1. If you only plan to use the headphone out of the D1, there's no need for the upgraded tube._

 

Ok, thanks!


----------



## Eugene86

Is it possible, or even recommended to connect the headphones to the pre-amp with an adapter?


----------



## _Spanky_

I'm thinking someone should start a new thread. No offense to Eugene86 but there's common questions that are being answered a couple times. There should be like a FAQ or something.

 Anyway, it's only recommended if you want to burn out or damage your headphones. The output is described as very hot. The only way you would want to use it is with a tube headphone amp such as this:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/bra...e-amps-444400/


----------



## Eugene86

Thanks for all your help!


----------



## _Spanky_

No problem Eugene86.

 Attention D1 Owners and those thinking about buying the D1: Check out my new thread:
Maverick Audio TubeMagic D1 - Condensed FAQ and Info Thread


----------



## bastogne

can anyone give me an idea of how the maverick compares to other dac/amps in this price range? including the hlly.


----------



## sfrancis

How does this DAC/amp pair with HD650 ? Do I need another amp between this and HD650 ?

 Thanks


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does this DAC/amp pair with HD650 ? Do I need another amp between this and HD650 ?

 Thanks_

 

The headphone amp has enough power to drive 600ohm headphones, it shouldn't have a problem with the HD650 so, no, you don't need another amp unless you want to buy a tube amp and connect to the D1's Tube Out.


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The headphone amp has enough power to drive 600ohm headphones, it shouldn't have a problem with the HD650 so, no, you don't need another amp unless you want to buy a tube amp and connect to the D1's Tube Out._

 

@_Spanky_: thanks for the quick reply. I searched "HD650" in this thread but did not get much. Wonder how will this compare to a audio-gd Compass/FUN if I connect it directly to HD650 without amp ?

 Thanks


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@_Spanky_: thanks for the quick reply. I searched "HD650" in this thread but did not get much. Wonder how will this compare to a audio-gd Compass/FUN if I connect it directly to HD650 without amp ?

 Thanks_

 

No problem. There was one person that liked this better than the Compass. I have no idea since if I had budget room for a Compass, I wouldn't be posting here and listening to the D1


----------



## xcluded

At this price point , i strongly believe it can give other brands(but $1XX or $2XX more expensive) a run of their money. 

 The price/performance ratio is excellent. You would feel that it is well spent.


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No problem. There was one person that liked this better than the Compass. I have no idea since if I had budget room for a Compass, I wouldn't be posting here and listening to the D1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Indeed, this one is quite a bit cheaper. However, to experience the tube sound, I will have to get an external amp as the headphone output has nothing to do with the tube (I did read your FAQ thread. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Awesome thread BTW and very helpful -- I'm rereading it).


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_(I did read your FAQ thread. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Awesome thread BTW and very helpful -- I'm rereading it)._

 

Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm glad people are appreciating it. It's still "beta" and I'm going to re-read through this thread and find more info and update it.


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At this price point , i strongly believe it can give other brands(but $1XX or $2XX more expensive) a run of their money. 

 The price/performance ratio is excellent. You would feel that it is well spent.




_

 

 Agree the P/P ratio make this a great contender. Need to read a bit more ...


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm glad people are appreciating it. It's still "beta" and I'm going to re-read through this thread and find more info and update it._

 

Great work. This makes finding information much easier. Nobody want to read 65 pages of posts to filter through what they are looking for, which forces me to be more creative about the way I search.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How does this DAC/amp pair with HD650 ? Do I need another amp between this and HD650 ?

 Thanks_

 

D1 has enough power to drive HD650. I have no problem using my HD650 with D1, and you don't need another amp in between.


----------



## SleazyC

I've browse through this thread for the past hour reading impressions and I was wondering if somewhat could give me some insight on the synergy that this unit (only as a DAC) has with some of the popular mid-range amps. I am wondering if there is anything I should avoid in particular in buying this as a DAC feeding into a dedicated desktop amp.

 I am looking to put together something at the office and want a nice rig to power a pair of D7000's.


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_D1 has enough power to drive HD650. I have no problem using my HD650 with D1, and you don't need another amp in between._

 

Thanks for the confirmation. 

 BTW, on their web site, it mentioned that any order before Feb 5 (Friday) will be shipped out soon otherwise we will have to wait after Feb 20 due to Chinese New year holiday. I wonder if it's too late now ? (it's their Friday afternoon now)


----------



## sfrancis

Ordered one from their web site. Hope it gets shipped soon.

 Feel exhausted after spending hours of reading on head fi.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the confirmation. 

 BTW, on their web site, it mentioned that any order before Feb 5 (Friday) will be shipped out soon otherwise we will have to wait after Feb 20 due to Chinese New year holiday. I wonder if it's too late now ? (it's their Friday afternoon now)_

 

It is not too later. Any order before end of Friday ( US pacific time) will be processed and shipped this weekend.


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is not too later. Any order before end of Friday ( US pacific time) will be processed and shipped this weekend._

 

Great. Thanks for the confirmation. Now I can go to sleep.


----------



## muad

K i think i need some advice on how to deal with the maverick. Since the headphone jack doesn't turn off the speaker output anymore... whats the best way to deal with it? I don't want to manually shut off the speaker and subwoofer from behind since I switch between speaker/phones quite often. The only possible solutions ive come up with is adding one of these  or reintegrating the auto preamp shutoff (if thats even possible). Would the nano patch cause any noticible quality loss? Seems like a highly regarded product from my research. Anyways, any input is appreciated. Ryan your thoughts about the automatic shutoff would be nice too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 thanks


----------



## _Spanky_

How about a power strip going to your speaker system? That's what I did when I had a really obnoxious setup where the switch was on the bottom and back of the subwoofer under my desk.


----------



## muad

hmm i actually considered that, but could that possibly cause damage my audioengines or my sub? Plus these speaker have a helluva pop when i power them up/down...


----------



## _Spanky_

My old sub gave out a nasty pop too. But it did that with the onboard power switch and the power strip so I didn't think twice about it. They worked fine then I sold them. You should probably ask someone more knowledgeable in the speakers forum, I wouldn't want to inadvertently break your equipment with any ill advice


----------



## igotyofire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is not too later. Any order before end of Friday ( US pacific time) will be processed and shipped this weekend._

 

i forgot to to give my phone number .....i hope mine gets shipped out on time.

 edit: just got the good news

 "Dear igotyofire,

 Hi there,

 Yes we've got your telephone number from ebay shipping page.
 Your order will be shipped this weekend, I will let you know the tracking code once it is shipped.

 Cheers,

 Ryan

 - maverickaudio"


----------



## sfrancis

@_Spanky_: can you update the FAQ thread about opamp rolling with respect to the following:

 1. Always 2 opamps are mentioned and here is what I find from what you posted: 

 "I've got the LT1364 in the DAC (socket closest to the tube) and the LM4562 in the headphone amp."

 So we should always get both type of amp and swap accordingly ?

 2. Where do we get these ? I found the following link:

Linear Technology - Purchase Linear Products

 One question I have is if they ship to canada (or maybe there is vendor inside canada) ?

 3. You also mentioned an allen wrench for changing op amps. wonder why ?

 Thanks very much


----------



## _Spanky_

sfrancis, I edited with the following info:

 Gave the full model number of the opamps in the list.
 Added info about opening the case (allen wrench).
 Added more info about opamp swapping.

 I didn't add anything for a opamp vendor since I am not going to go through the internet and find a vendor that ships to every country. You should be able to drop the full model numbers in google and find a couple places that would sell them. I think Digikey or Mouser might but I haven't looked. To be honest, I got mine by requesting a free sample which I know is a no-no.


----------



## sfrancis

Thanks for the hard work. It's quite clear now.

 Don't worry about the vendors. I already bought both opamps on ebay this afternoon. It's an easy find.

 One question I have: when you say check DC offset voltage after changing amp, do you mean measure output of opamp against ground with a multi meter ?

 Thanks


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea, I just measured with a spare headphone jack I had, worked ok with a couple minor issues.


----------



## sfrancis

Thanks, Spanky. It's clear.


----------



## muad

I am about to roll opamps for the tube output on my mav. Do i need to check the dc offset on them even though its un-amped? If so what's an acceptable offset?

 thanks 

 and btw spanky... great faq!!!


----------



## _Spanky_

As far as I know you can only check the headphone opamp output and that's the only one that matters. I would think that DC Offset from the DAC opamp would get filtered out by whatever amp it's connected to but I could be wrong. Also, there's no opamp for the Tube output unless you're talking about the DAC in which case there's only 1 opamp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for the support


----------



## muad

I was under the impression the tube out runs both the opamp and tube at the same time. Thats what I was told when I asked much earlier in this thread. While the non tube out only uses the opamp.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was under the impression the tube out runs both the opamp and tube at the same time. Thats what I was told when I asked much earlier in this thread. While the non tube out only uses the opamp._

 

I guess that's possible. I don't see why it would add that extra step to possibly degrade the sound. I'm not an engineer nor do I know the schematic of the D1, I just try to give a somewhat educated guess with the knowledge I've learned.


----------



## muad

well I think the tube out just uses the tube to "degrade the sound" and make the output sound tube like


----------



## A_Dying_Wren

Hey guys. Just got a D1 of my own 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just a couple questions:
 1. Will there be any burn in? Already sounds fantastic so if there's more then awesome
 2. Will opamps significantly improve the sound? I wouldn't mind buying some opamps if that was so. How would one go about "rolling opamps"?
 3. Why is the gain so darn high? Through USB I've set the volume to 8.30 with the HD650s.


----------



## sp70

1. Yes, but not much. Don't except any more change after the first day or so of burn in. 
 2. Yes, I highly recommend upgrading the OPAMPs to the ones already specified.
 3. Its just the way the amp was designed, so it could work high higher ohm headphones. There is a mod in this thread described to lower it if needed.
 4. How does it sound with your HD650s? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I've been thinking of upgrading to a pair of those, wonder what the Maverick synergy is like, I think it would be a good choice, as its still too up front with my Grados. 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *A_Dying_Wren* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys. Just got a D1 of my own 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just a couple questions:
 1. Will there be any burn in? Already sounds fantastic so if there's more then awesome
 2. Will opamps significantly improve the sound? I wouldn't mind buying some opamps if that was so. How would one go about "rolling opamps"?
 3. Why is the gain so darn high? Through USB I've set the volume to 8.30 with the HD650s._


----------



## watusi

so at what point is a pair of headphones too low impedence for the gain on this amp? I have some ultrasone pro 750's that are 40 ohm and high sensitivity. This amp looks lovely but I'm concerned it might be a bad match due to the gain.


----------



## boomy3555

<32 ohm may require an attenuator, as is the case with my 16 ohm Custom IEM's

 The other option is to lower the source volume but then you run into low signal problems such as low volume hiss if the source is too low. The Amp can only amp what it's given


----------



## ursus65

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ELP FAN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use 32 Ohm Senn headsets, i'm presently using a 10K resistor to in place of the 30K (R54/55) that's virtually got shut of hum, i need to fit a slightly lower to be 100% satisfied_

 

Hi, 

 has anybody found a good resistor to use a 600 Ohm headphone. 4,7 KOhm not a good choice. I can always hear with full volume and it is not enough. If you listen a low level disc like Brothers in arm from Dire Straits it is very sad. I use a K 701 and it is not loud enough to.

 THX

 Ursus


----------



## Mysteek

I'm one question away from buying this:

 I just got the Shure 840's and the impedence is 44 ohms. 

 Occasionally I will want to listen at lower volumes but posts above mine seem to suggest that the lowest volume might still be very loud, would I be okay? And if I do need to purchase an attenuator, would this noticeably degrade the sound?


----------



## Mysteek

EDIT: Double post sorry


----------



## _Spanky_

Hey guys, according to Ryan in this thread, the current batch shipping has gone through 2 gain lowerings and should be better. I don't know what it's spec'd at now, I may contact Ryan about this.


----------



## A_Dying_Wren

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sp70* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_1. Yes, but not much. Don't except any more change after the first day or so of burn in. 
 2. Yes, I highly recommend upgrading the OPAMPs to the ones already specified.
 3. Its just the way the amp was designed, so it could work high higher ohm headphones. There is a mod in this thread described to lower it if needed.
 4. How does it sound with your HD650s? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've been thinking of upgrading to a pair of those, wonder what the Maverick synergy is like, I think it would be a good choice, as its still too up front with my Grados._

 

Thanks for your answer. I'll look into getting some opamps then.

 I'm afraid I'm not qualified to judge how it sounds with the HD650 as I've only heard the HD650 seriously only on this amp. I've heard it briefly on a darkvoice 337 but if I recall correctly that didn't work as it was a very warm tube amp. I still do think the HD650s could improve in soundstage though. Vocals are somewhat forward with the maverick. Dunno what the HD650 is "supposed" to sound like otherwise.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mysteek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm one question away from buying this:

 I just got the Shure 840's and the impedence is 44 ohms. 

 Occasionally I will want to listen at lower volumes but posts above mine seem to suggest that the lowest volume might still be very loud, would I be okay? And if I do need to purchase an attenuator, would this noticeably degrade the sound?_

 

It's quite listenable on my HD555 without hissing at very low volumes. I dunno what impedance it is. There are apparently two versions or something like that: either 55 Ohm or 120 Ohm.


----------



## ninjikiran

question answered by Ryan~

 70mW should be safe on Line-In in case anyone has a similar question in the future.


----------



## GPollos

I have a silly interoperability question:

 I am considering (upon Mysteek's recommendation) to purchase a pair of AT A700s. However, I also have my PC speakers, Swan M10's. In addition to driving the A700's, would there be any foreseeable issues with hooking up the Swans to either the tube preamp or the regular output?

 I apologize for my ignorance, I am new to the audio space and I am very tired of keeping my speakers on my onboard realtek chip. I already ordered the Maverick, did it last night! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Before the cut-off I hope. I do believe it was on-time (12AM EST), I think Ryan mentioned that the time was in PST, which is a few hours earlier.


----------



## pacmantravis

Anyone how this would compare to a Nuforce uDAC/Littledot I+ combo for headphone use only?

 Currently they will be powering my PC 350's with 600's coming in the next couple of months.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GPollos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a silly interoperability question:

 I am considering (upon Mysteek's recommendation) to purchase a pair of AT A700s. However, I also have my PC speakers, Swan M10's. In addition to driving the A700's, would there be any foreseeable issues with hooking up the Swans to either the tube preamp or the regular output?

 I apologize for my ignorance, I am new to the audio space and I am very tired of keeping my speakers on my onboard realtek chip. I already ordered the Maverick, did it last night! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Before the cut-off I hope. I do believe it was on-time (12AM EST), I think Ryan mentioned that the time was in PST, which is a few hours earlier._

 

@Swan M10 They are self powered they should do fine on either output far as I am concerned. Unless someone says otherwise. I have a cheap $7 pair of passive unpowered speakers for emergency use(and they sound decent as well) and I actually use the headphone amplifier to power them.

 Just personal preference I think they sound best via Digital Output on a bit-perfect sound card. With USB and Dsound vista will use shared mode sample rate and bit depth. With non-bit perfect digital out on sound card with streaming plugins either your sound card will change it to its master sample rate or Vista will via the same issue with USB. I can't confirm this under USB of course but with my sound card since I enable bit-matched playback minute I use dsound it sets the master sample rate to the maximum I have set in Vista. Where with WASAPI it sets the master sample rate to match the output(or song in this case).

 In the following image shows the same song(16-bit 44.1khz). The right is when I am playing it in Foobar under WASAPI, and the left is when I am playing it using Direct Sound. Basically Vista is doing something to it since my sound card is bit perfect it is just changing based on what it is receiving so it doesn't modify the output in any way. That way it doesn't matter what song I am listening to, doesn't matter what the sample rate is it will always be bit-perfect. If all your files are 16-bit 44.1khz though you should get bit-perfect via USB.


----------



## A_Dying_Wren

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pacmantravis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone how this would compare to a Nuforce uDAC/Littledot I+ combo for headphone use only?

 Currently they will be powering my PC 350's with 600's coming in the next couple of months._

 

I suspect your set up will be a bit better for the HD600s. The only reason I picked up the D1 over the uDAC was the uDAC's supposedly warm and forward tone which is extremely unnecessary with the HD650s.


----------



## CANiSLAYu

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GPollos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have a silly interoperability question:

 I am considering (upon Mysteek's recommendation) to purchase a pair of AT A700s. However, I also have my PC speakers, Swan M10's. In addition to driving the A700's, would there be any foreseeable issues with hooking up the Swans to either the tube preamp or the regular output?

 I apologize for my ignorance, I am new to the audio space and I am very tired of keeping my speakers on my onboard realtek chip. I already ordered the Maverick, did it last night! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Before the cut-off I hope. I do believe it was on-time (12AM EST), I think Ryan mentioned that the time was in PST, which is a few hours earlier._

 

Nope, you won't have any issues with this. I'm using the tube out to a pair of Audioengine A2's. If you push down the "Direct" button on the front it will make the analog line outs fixed and you control the volume via your speakers. If you leave the "Direct" button out, then you can control the volume on the D1 volume dial, which is my preference since the volume knob for the A2's are on the back of the main speaker.


----------



## hodgjy

This question has been asked here a few times, so I did a little unscientific measurement this weekend with the D1.

 It's been said that the tube and regular pre-outs run hot. So, I hooked up some of level equipment and did a little math on the back of a napkin to determine just how hot.

 Most hi-end gear sends a line-level output of 2.0v, and is the norm in Europe. In the U.S.A, a lot of mid and low end gear send a line-level output of ~0.5v. 2.0v is still within specs of most gear. 

 I took my "loudest CD", which is a new release and is a perfect example of the "loudness war" going in the audio world these days. This cd melts my cans even at low volumes. Anyway, onto the RCA jack line level output---

 When I measured the output of the D1, using a combo if the "direct button" and then maxing out the volume pot, I got these measurements:

 Tube pre-out in direct mode maxes out at 2.2v. Using the volume pot, 3:00 maxes out at 2.2v as well.

 Non-tube out is slightly cooler. It still maxes out above 2.0v, but doesn't hit the 2.2v as often as the tube pre-out.

 I hope these unscientific calculations help someone interested in the voltage output. It appears that it is even a little hot compared to European standards, but certainly within the range of tolerance. It's just a lot higher than most gear in the U.S.A., which is why we say it is really hot.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most hi-end gear sends a line-level output of 2.0v, and is the norm in Europe. In the U.S.A, a lot of mid and low end gear send a line-level output of ~0.5v. 2.0v is still within specs of most gear. 

 When I measured the output of the D1, using a combo if the "direct button" and then maxing out the volume pot, I got these measurements:

 Tube pre-out in direct mode maxes out at 2.2v. Using the volume pot, 3:00 maxes out at 2.2v as well.

 Non-tube out is slightly cooler. It still maxes out above 2.0v, but doesn't hit the 2.2v as often as the tube pre-out._

 

Hope you don't mind if I use this info in my sticky. Thanks for your testing


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hope you don't mind if I use this info in my sticky. Thanks for your testing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No problem. Spread the word. Thanks.


----------



## Mysteek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CANiSLAYu* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nope, you won't have any issues with this. I'm using the tube out to a pair of Audioengine A2's. If you push down the "Direct" button on the front it will make the analog line outs fixed and you control the volume via your speakers. If you leave the "Direct" button out, then you can control the volume on the D1 volume dial, which is my preference since the volume knob for the A2's are on the back of the main speaker._

 

Oooh! And how do the A2's sound with them?!


----------



## ajuztam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ursus65* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, 

 has anybody found a good resistor to use a 600 Ohm headphone. 4,7 KOhm not a good choice. I can always hear with full volume and it is not enough. If you listen a low level disc like Brothers in arm from Dire Straits it is very sad. I use a K 701 and it is not loud enough to.

 THX

 Ursus_

 

hi. there must be sth wrong in your setup. i can only listen up to 3-4 o'clock on my k702. if i go any higher sound is distorted. my sources are modified denon dcd-1460 and spdif out on laptop and i listen to downtempo, lounge, chillout etc.


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ajuztam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi. there must be sth wrong in your setup. i can only listen up to *3-4 o'clock* on my k702. if i go any higher sound is distorted. my sources are modified denon dcd-1460 and spdif out on laptop and i listen to downtempo, lounge, chillout etc._

 

serious ? i tried my friend's akg701 , the max i can hear is around 12 o'clock...

 that's quite loud already.


----------



## pj_rage

How does the DAC in this compare to the ibasso D4?


----------



## ?ractaL

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@Swan M10 They are self powered they should do fine on either output far as I am concerned. Unless someone says otherwise. I have a cheap $7 pair of passive unpowered speakers for emergency use(and they sound decent as well) and I actually use the headphone amplifier to power them.

 Just personal preference I think they sound best via Digital Output on a bit-perfect sound card. With USB and Dsound vista will use shared mode sample rate and bit depth. With non-bit perfect digital out on sound card with streaming plugins either your sound card will change it to its master sample rate or Vista will via the same issue with USB. I can't confirm this under USB of course but with my sound card since I enable bit-matched playback minute I use dsound it sets the master sample rate to the maximum I have set in Vista. Where with WASAPI it sets the master sample rate to match the output(or song in this case).

 In the following image shows the same song(16-bit 44.1khz). The right is when I am playing it in Foobar under WASAPI, and the left is when I am playing it using Direct Sound. Basically Vista is doing something to it since my sound card is bit perfect it is just changing based on what it is receiving so it doesn't modify the output in any way. That way it doesn't matter what song I am listening to, doesn't matter what the sample rate is it will always be bit-perfect. If all your files are 16-bit 44.1khz though you should get bit-perfect via USB._

 

How do I know if I have a "bit-perfect" sound card?


----------



## B-Dawk20

Hey guys, I'm still building up money for the maverick but there is something I wanted to know. When using my AD700s, I have noticed a lot of sibilance or sharp "s" sounds when listening to music at medium loud to loud levels. Does this tone down when you have a better source like the maverick? I've only ever used them out of my cheap pci sound card so I know no different from them.


----------



## Mysteek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *B-Dawk20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, I'm still building up money for the maverick but there is something I wanted to know. When using my AD700s, I have noticed a lot of sibilance or sharp "s" sounds when listening to music at medium loud to loud levels. Does this tone down when you have a better source like the maverick? I've only ever used them out of my cheap pci sound card so I know no different from them._

 

I can say that my Grado SR-325i's had less sibilance when put through my headphone dac/amp, so I can confirm that from my experience, a better source does help.


----------



## boomy3555

I bought a Mav on the 2nd and went several days before I got a response. Concerned about the Chinese New Years Holiday, I PM'd Ryan who asuured me that the Amp would be shipped out in time to miss the Massive National Shutdown associated with the New Year Holiday. I recieved another email from Roy Ping on 2/5 assuring me that it would ship on time. and sure enough it was picked up today by DHL, @ 315PM local time. The last tracking Note says "Shipment on Hold" @ 815 PM local time, I can only assume that it's going to sit in a warehouse in China while the celebration takes place and then arrive sometime after Feb 20th when things start up again there. I am very disappointed. It should not have taken 6 days to pack and ship the unit regardless of the Holiday. and It isn't likely to arrive in time for the next meet that I was planning to bring it to.


----------



## Mr.Sh0eWax

I thought the New Year starts on Valentines Day this year, are they really shutting down this early? "Shipment on Hold" could mean it is clearing customs, I've had it say that on delivery of other things from China before, where is does it say it is located?

 Sorry if I'm kind of busting in on the conversation, but I'm curious to see how it turns out. Oh, I just read that they celebrate for two weeks, well either way, best of luck.


----------



## sfrancis

Just did some google. The official Chinese New Year holiday start only on Feb. 13. I would be surprised that DHL close shop this early. I would give it a day or two to see what happens.

 Mine shows the same status " shipment on hold".


----------



## Nakattack

My Mav was on hold in Shanghai for 17 hours according to the logs, and after it was processed in East China it shot to Hong Kong and speedily, processed and shipped. I'm sure it'll arrive on time, I ordered mine on the 2nd aswell.


----------



## Mysteek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought a Mav on the 2nd and went several days before I got a response. Concerned about the Chinese New Years Holiday, I PM'd Ryan who asuured me that the Amp would be shipped out in time to miss the Massive National Shutdown associated with the New Year Holiday. I recieved another email from Roy Ping on 2/5 assuring me that it would ship on time. and sure enough it was picked up today by DHL, @ 315PM local time. The last tracking Note says "Shipment on Hold" @ 815 PM local time, I can only assume that it's going to sit in a warehouse in China while the celebration takes place and then arrive sometime after Feb 20th when things start up again there. I am very disappointed. It should not have taken 6 days to pack and ship the unit regardless of the Holiday. and It isn't likely to arrive in time for the next meet that I was planning to bring it to. Shame on you Ryan._

 

What a bummer! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I hope all goes well. Maybe its just something with the shipping company.. a temporary hold that doesnt have anything to do with the new year.


----------



## boomy3555

perhaps I should be more patient. I had my EF2 held over last year for the Holiday and as Ryan stated that any orders after PST Friday would have to wait. I am assuming that the cutoff was end of business Monday 2/8 and with the last tracking notation after that time, Well, We'll see I'll try not to jump to any conclusions for a day or so.


----------



## boomy3555

Well now I must official appologize to Ryan for my impatience. I just checked the DHL site and although it is still in Shanghai, it is no longer in "Hold" status. It says it has departed origin location but still shows it in Shanghai. I'm sure it will be smooth sailing from now on.


----------



## CrazyNikel

Hey guys, do you think this amp would drive the Denon 2000's well enough? Also what about the 5000's? Looking at this amp to drive my purchase of either the 2.


 Thanks for the help!


----------



## minktoast

Just received my D1. As reported elsewhere - excellent build quality and service from Ryan.

 Unfortunately I also have a problem with a hum noise on the headphone output. I am using HD 650's and in my fairly quiet room it is very audible. The unit is connected via optical S/PDIF to my computer. I have also tried taking the unit elsewhere in the house and just plugging it in on it's own. I get the same noise through my headphones when it's turned on.

 The characteristics of the noise at different volumes through my HD 650's:

0 volume (7 o'clock on the pot): quiet 50hz hum (audible above my relatively quiet PC)
10 o'clock: louder 50hz hum
3 o'clock: white noise (hiss) takes over from hum

 As noted elsewhere the gain is very high so even with my HD 650's I wouldn't be able to listen at levels above 9 o'clock with 100% output from my PC.

 I suspect it's a 50hz mains hum see here:

Mains hum - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 I am in Ireland on 240v. I have a D1 with the upgraded GE 5670 tube. I'm no electrical expert but from the above Wikipedia page it seems that:

 a) there are a number of possible causes of the hum (including issues related to the heating of the tube even though this is not used in the head amp stage)
 b) these issues are solvable by good design.

 The sound quality from the unit is very good but I'm not impressed with the background hum. On my Corda Aria there is no background noise. Is this acceptable from a headphone amp at this price in 2010?

 Any suggestions from anyone?


----------



## blitzpirate

Mine came in the mail today, really nice build quality i can still smell the paint, I like how when you change the volume or source theres a click. havent rolled the tubes or the opamps yet. initial impression was that the treble isnt very good out the SS headphone amp. maybe it needs to be burned in or i need to put in the lm4562


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blitzpirate* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mine came in the mail today, really nice build quality i can still smell the paint, I like how when you change the volume or source theres a click. havent rolled the tubes or the opamps yet. initial impression was that the treble isnt very good out the SS headphone amp. maybe it needs to be burned in or i need to put in the lm4562_

 

Several others and me all agree that the LM4562 helps with the shrill highs.

 I see you have the Zero in your sig. Would you mind giving a quick comparison?


----------



## minktoast

Just to add to my post above, I have now tested with speakers (Rubicon R5a monitors) also get a hum noise when connecting my monitors to the tube pre-amp out and solid state out. The hum characteristics are exactly the same as for the headphones.

 Any suggestions on how to get rid of this noise?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *minktoast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just to add to my post above, I have now tested with speakers (Rubicon R5a monitors) also get a hum noise when connecting my monitors to the tube pre-amp out and solid state out. The hum characteristics are exactly the same as for the headphones.

 Any suggestions on how to get rid of this noise?_

 

I think it has to do with your box in some way shape or form, I don't get any hum in a silent environment.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ƒractaL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_How do I know if I have a "bit-perfect" sound card?_

 

Many onboard cards are not, right off the bat. Basically any card where you can disable any and all enhancements and the master sample rate can be a variable rather than static(on my Realtek AC885 onboard for instance this is not true, even with WASAPI). On the D1 you can hear an audible change going from 48/96 to 44.1 and vice versa. 

 I know for sure most of the X-Fi's can, the Chaintek AV-710 card is supposed to be capable as well.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Hey boomy3555, I saw your profile and it says you have the EF2 and Compass. When you get your D1, do you mind comparing them?


----------



## DannyBuoy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mysteek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What a bummer! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I hope all goes well. Maybe its just something with the shipping company.. a temporary hold that doesnt have anything to do with the new year._

 

Don't worry. Everyone that has wondered about this was pleasently surprised (as I was) when the status changed from "On Hold" to processed, and BAM! the next day it showed up at my doorstep, frozen like a popsicle (my location is half a mile from the airport and the unit must have been at 20 degrees F when I opened the box).

 But the thing is. It stays in the "On Hold" status for a day or two and then it is at your doorstep the next day.

 You will be so happy with the performance of the D1 you will forget about the DHL wait altogether.


----------



## sfrancis

@minktoast: please let us know the outcome of the issues you see. I have the same DAC/amp/headphone setup (D1 + HD650) and I'm curious about the noise. Already got HD650 yesterday and still waiting for D1 ...


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CrazyNikel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, do you think this amp would drive the Denon 2000's well enough? Also what about the 5000's? Looking at this amp to drive my purchase of either the 2.


 Thanks for the help!_

 


 The Denon 2K and 5K have the same drivers and the Maverick will run either of them as well as the 7K's with ease. The only dowside I see to the Mav as far as the Denons go is that the Denons realy love the "Tube" flavor and as the Tube Section runs to the RCA out's in the back and not the headphone out, you won't be giving the Denons the flavor they want unless you use the Maverick as a pre-amp/Dac and run to another amp for the Denons. My recommendation for the Denons are the Tube/SS hybrids such as the EF2, Little Dot, Darkvoice, and Xiang Sheng Little Singer (HAo1 or something like that)


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't worry. Everyone that has wondered about this was pleasently surprised (as I was) when the status changed from "On Hold" to processed, and BAM! the next day it showed up at my doorstep, frozen like a popsicle (my location is half a mile from the airport and the unit must have been at 20 degrees F when I opened the box).

 But the thing is. It stays in the "On Hold" status for a day or two and then it is at your doorstep the next day.

 You will be so happy with the performance of the D1 you will forget about the DHL wait altogether._

 


 It's out of "Hold" status but still in China. I'll breathe easier when I see it track out of China.


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *B-Dawk20* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey boomy3555, I saw your profile and it says you have the EF2 and Compass. When you get your D1, do you mind comparing them?_

 

 I had a Maverick before and as DAC's the EF2 and the Maverick are very similar. The Solid state headphone out of the Mav is more powerful than the EF2 and better for cans higher than 100 ohms ( Senns, Beyers). But as all of my cans are low impedence the EF2 is my AMP of choice since I like Tubes. I did try the Tube pre out of the Maverick into both the EF2 and my RA1. but still feel that the sig of the EF2 alone is better from Headphone out. I will refrain from comparing the EF and the Compass as they are to disssimilar. At the Seattle/Portland meet on 2/27. I'll have The Maverick,Zero, and Compass all there side by side for Head-Fi'ers to A/B/C..


----------



## thearrow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *minktoast* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The characteristics of the noise at different volumes through my HD 650's:

0 volume (7 o'clock on the pot): quiet 50hz hum (audible above my relatively quiet PC)
10 o'clock: louder 50hz hum
3 o'clock: white noise (hiss) takes over from hum

 As noted elsewhere the gain is very high so even with my HD 650's I wouldn't be able to listen at levels above 9 o'clock with 100% output from my PC.

 I suspect it's a 50hz mains hum see here:

Mains hum - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia_

 

This is exactly what I'm experiencing, too (except 60Hz since I'm in the US).

 What can we do to eliminate this?


----------



## muad

Just wondering... Does your maverick make a clicking sound when using spdif/optical from your pc? I get it when I switch songs and scan songs. When Im surfing for pron it clicks like a spanish dancing lady. Its getting kinda irritating... Just wondering if I use the coaxial instead of the optical will it make a difference or is this something normal and I have to just get used to it?

 BTW I've rolled a couple of opamps. As its has been said before the LT1364 sounds unbelievable for tube/pre out. Very smooth, detailed and nice soundstage. Much less fatiguing than my xfi and better than stock. Makes my Audioengine5's sound like angels singing... (I still wonder if its all this is in my head?) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I also tried the opa2134. I think this dac doesnt like that opamp. It sounded worse than the stock opamp, very harsh and unrefined. TBH I think its not compatible with the maverick. Ive got some opa627's coming in soon. Ill let you know what they sound like.


----------



## blitzpirate

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Several others and me all agree that the LM4562 helps with the shrill highs.

 I see you have the Zero in your sig. Would you mind giving a quick comparison?_

 

I would Have to opamp roll and tube amp roll a little bit then ill do my comparison as its not fair to compare stock maverick with hdam zero with LT1364. I never listened to my Zero stock so i cant compare stock sounds. however as of right now the Zero with upgraded parts the bass is tighter and the treble are a little bit clearer with less shrill, but i think the maverick audio has more power, this comparison is strictly with the Headphone out on both units, i havent compared the Preamp/Dac section of either unit.i will give you a better analysis later on in the week


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wondering... Does your maverick make a clicking sound when using spdif/optical from your pc? I get it when I switch songs and scan songs. When Im surfing for pron it clicks like a spanish dancing lady. Its getting kinda irritating... Just wondering if I use the coaxial instead of the optical will it make a difference or is this something normal and I have to just get used to it?_

 

The unit itself is clicking? That's something that happens when the sample rate changes. I recently tried my onboard sound with the D1 and it clicked whenever Windows made a sound which seems like your experience. It doesn't do that with the SPDIF from my X-Fi though, I don't know what the difference is.

 @ blitzpirate, thanks. I look forward to more of your thoughts/experiences


----------



## muad

well with my xfi spdif the maverick would make a noise like a motor moving something when the sample rates change. With my mobo optical out it clicks regardless of the sample rate. I just checked right now and it clicks when im using wasapi spdif or direct sound spdif. My mobo doesnt ouput bitperfect so i have it outputting 16bit 44.1khz from the spdif out. 

 I also have another problem. When i use the usb it says i can't output 16bit 44.1khz in foobar. Any ideas What is going on there?

 ^^^^
 I just realized the the usb cant do 44khz


----------



## hodgjy

Here's a really dumb question, but it's got me thinking.

 So, I've been demo-ing my D1 for friends so they can hear the "tube glow." To do so, I've run the optical out of my DVD player into the D1, then run the D1 into my amp. I also ran the analog out from the DVD player into the amp. That way, I could A/B the sound to demonstrate the tube difference.

 Anyway, is it bad for the amp to switch back and forth the sources repeatedly? I'd say I'd play for 5 seconds, then switch, 5, switch, and so on.

 Just paranoid.

 P.S. I'm not worried about the speakers because the volume was rather low, so no worries about "shocking" the speakers.


----------



## _Spanky_

Theoretically, only the knobs and connectors should wear out but even then that will take a while. It's all solid-state and shouldn't "wear down". I wouldn't switch several dozen times a day every day but a dozen times every once and a while I would imagine is fine. That's just me though and I'm not an engineer or anything.


----------



## Nakattack

My D1 just arrived, and I'll make sure I get out of my Shiny-New-Toy mood before I post impressions. One thing I have noticed right off the bat though is that the bass has improved considerably on my MS1i's. Purchase justified IMO


----------



## minktoast

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is exactly what I'm experiencing, too (except 60Hz since I'm in the US).

 What can we do to eliminate this?_

 

I'm sending mine back. Ryan has been very helpful and responded to my emails even though their office is closed until 20th Feb.


----------



## hodgjy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Theoretically, only the knobs and connectors should wear out but even then that will take a while. It's all solid-state and shouldn't "wear down". I wouldn't switch several dozen times a day every day but a dozen times every once and a while I would imagine is fine. That's just me though and I'm not an engineer or anything._

 

Thanks. I figured as much, but wanted some reassurance from someone else. I did my switching from the remote only--so only solid state electronics were in play. No turning of any physical knobs.

 I usually buy things to last a long time--so I do my best to take care of things.


----------



## ursus65

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ajuztam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi. there must be sth wrong in your setup. i can only listen up to 3-4 o'clock on my k702. if i go any higher sound is distorted. my sources are modified denon dcd-1460 and spdif out on laptop and i listen to downtempo, lounge, chillout etc._

 

Hi, I don't use the "original" resisstors. I have the TubeDac form bearmann and he has changed them to 4,7KOhm.


----------



## Mysteek

I wonder if anyone here has tried the ''HiFiMan EF2 tube Hybrid Amp with USB DAC'' and can compare the two. They're both at a similar price point and both have a dac/amp. A quick search didn't find much though.


----------



## DannyBuoy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Denon 2K and 5K have the same drivers and the Maverick will run either of them as well as the 7K's with ease. The only dowside I see to the Mav as far as the Denons go is that the Denons realy love the "Tube" flavor and as the Tube Section runs to the RCA out's in the back and not the headphone out, you won't be giving the Denons the flavor they want unless you use the Maverick as a pre-amp/Dac and run to another amp for the Denons. My recommendation for the Denons are the Tube/SS hybrids such as the EF2, Little Dot, Darkvoice, and Xiang Sheng Little Singer (HAo1 or something like that)_

 

First I used my D5000s with my EF2 and although they had a nice warm sound to them, I did not feel as though the EF2 had enough speed or dynamic range to drive them to their potential.
 I bought the D1 and I was amazed at how much more punchier the bass was at the high DB levels I enjoy. The EF2 was just underpowered for the job.
 I also noticed the sound was snappier and clearer, as though the tube sound of the EF2 had veiled the mids and highs from being clear and now the digital compoenents had removed that veil and increased the clarity. Kind of like the effect of listneing to an MP3 of poor quality and then hearing one that is ripped just right. There just seems to be more sound. A richer musical experience.

 So are the D5s good with the D1? I'd have to say for me, they are fantastic. I also have ATH A700s and they saound good on the D1, and my friends AKG 702's sound really good! I can''t use open HP in my office but if I could, the 702's sound really nice with the D1.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had a Maverick before and as DAC's the EF2 and the Maverick are very similar. The Solid state headphone out of the Mav is more powerful than the EF2 and better for cans higher than 100 ohms ( Senns, Beyers). But as all of my cans are low impedence the EF2 is my AMP of choice since I like Tubes. I did try the Tube pre out of the Maverick into both the EF2 and my RA1. but still feel that the sig of the EF2 alone is better from Headphone out. I will refrain from comparing the EF and the Compass as they are to disssimilar. At the Seattle/Portland meet on 2/27. I'll have The Maverick,Zero, and Compass all there side by side for Head-Fi'ers to A/B/C.._

 

Awesome....too bad I live in DELAWARE! T_T


----------



## DannyBuoy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mysteek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder if anyone here has tried the ''HiFiMan EF2 tube Hybrid Amp with USB DAC'' and can compare the two. They're both at a similar price point and both have a dac/amp. A quick search didn't find much though._

 

Bottom line. I am looking to sell my EF2 now after getting my D1.

 Why? The EF2 has a nice warm sound to it and it was great with my ATH A700s but it just is not up to the job on driving my D5000s to the levels I enjoy.

 I had tried 2 different types of tubes in the EF2, I upgraded the wall wart from 16V/600 ma to 18V/800ma and the sound was better, and had more reserves, but still no match for the brute power of the D1 at driving my HP wiith the SQ and punch I love.

 I am now experimenting with the SQ on the D1 and have swapped out the HP OpAmps for the 627B, LT1364 and LM4562 . I liked the 4562 the best.
 Then I put in the "Sun" HDAM from a Compass and I have not removed it since then. The SQ of the HDAM with my D5000s is a great match. I have ordered a Burson HDAM as I have to return the "Sun" to the Compass owner soon. The Burson HDAM is very much like the one from the Compass. From what I understand Burson just has a better spec on the components that go into the HDAM (matched pairs of parts). I will let you know what that next step in price yields ($160).


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bottom line. I am looking to sell my EF2 now after getting my D1.

 Why? The EF2 has a nice warm sound to it and it was great with my ATH A700s but it just is not up to the job on driving my D5000s to the levels I enjoy.

 I had tried 2 different types of tubes in the EF2, I upgraded the wall wart from 16V/600 ma to 18V/800ma and the sound was better, and had more reserves, but still no match for the brute power of the D1 at driving my HP wiith the SQ and punch I love.

 I am now experimenting with the SQ on the D1 and have swapped out the HP OpAmps for the 627B, LT1364 and LM4562 . I liked the 4562 the best.
 Then I put in the "Sun" HDAM from a Compass and I have not removed it since then. The SQ of the HDAM with my D5000s is a great match. I have ordered a Burson HDAM as I have to return the "Sun" to the Compass owner soon. The Burson HDAM is very much like the one from the Compass. From what I understand Burson just has a better spec on the components that go into the HDAM (matched pairs of parts). I will let you know what that next step in price yields ($160)._

 

Looking forward to hearing about those results, still on the edge on upgrading my D1's opamp. Been lazy and I am satisfied atm. You are using the Sun(and soon the Burson) on the headphone opamp ya? How did ya get that beast in anyway? Kept the cover off?


----------



## Zaluss

I'm glad everyone seems to be enjoying the D1. After having mine for a few months now I have to say its one of the best audio purchases I've made next to my Strata Mini's. Its the only piece of gear I own that I bought brand new.

 I've recommended it already to several other forums I browse and many of its members are now proud owners of a D1.

 Thanks again Ryan! I hope to see more products from you.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zaluss* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm glad everyone seems to be enjoying the D1. After having mine for a few months now I have to say its one of the best audio purchases I've made next to my Strata Mini's. Its the only piece of gear I own that I bought brand new.

 I've recommended it already to several other forums I browse and many of its members are now proud owners of a D1.

 Thanks again Ryan! I hope to see more products from you._

 

Yea I gotta say for the price I got WAY more than I expected by a long shot. Glad I put off on buying another Dac and Amp till now. The fact that it has so many inputs makes it even more worth it for that alone.

 I gotta thank Ryan just for that. I don't have enough experience to compare it but to my listening ears the upgrade was there.


 I think we should start making a D2 wishlist


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bottom line. I am looking to sell my EF2 now after getting my D1.

 Why? The EF2 has a nice warm sound to it and it was great with my ATH A700s but it just is not up to the job on driving my D5000s to the levels I enjoy.

 I had tried 2 different types of tubes in the EF2, I upgraded the wall wart from 16V/600 ma to 18V/800ma and the sound was better, and had more reserves, but still no match for the brute power of the D1 at driving my HP wiith the SQ and punch I love.

 I am now experimenting with the SQ on the D1 and have swapped out the HP OpAmps for the 627B, LT1364 and LM4562 . I liked the 4562 the best.
 Then I put in the "Sun" HDAM from a Compass and I have not removed it since then. The SQ of the HDAM with my D5000s is a great match. I have ordered a Burson HDAM as I have to return the "Sun" to the Compass owner soon. The Burson HDAM is very much like the one from the Compass. From what I understand Burson just has a better spec on the components that go into the HDAM (matched pairs of parts). I will let you know what that next step in price yields ($160)._

 

Nooo! I wanted the EF2 a little because I want an amp to really make my AD700s sound nice but I also wanted an amp so that I can get some really nice cans in the future like the K701, Dxxxx, and a few others. I guess the D1 is still my best choice. I just wish there was a way I could get the tube to my cd player or something and still benefit from it.


----------



## GPollos

I can't wait to receive mine! ;-;

 I had emailed Ryan and I found out that when my order came though on their end, the courier had just left with the last shipment on Friday! By like less than an hour if I understood correctly! 

 Bah. I'll just have to wait, and maintain my excitement until shipping resumes on the 20th!


----------



## happykev

Anyone else notice how "hot" the tube output is relative to solid state?

 I ran my earphones off each line output and even with the volume knob cranked to the max, the solid state output wasnt putting off that loud of a signal. 

 With the tube output, I only had to crank the volume knob to 10:00 to get a decent volume into my 'phones.

 What gives?

 Kevin


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then I put in the "Sun" HDAM from a Compass and I have not removed it since then._

 

PICTURES PLEASE!!!!!! Does it fit in both sockets? How's the clearance around the other components? Did you just leave the cover off?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *happykev* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone else notice how "hot" the tube output is relative to solid state?_

 

Yup, talked about a bit here:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...thread-470639/


----------



## doctorcilantro

I got mine today via DHL. Careful if you swap tubes.

 The manual doesn't show that while the two right feet are okay to remove, the two left have nuts on the back, and I think they go into the board. So I had two nuts rolling around before I even got the DAC open.

 I through in a Raytheon 5670 windmill getter from my stash and connected it to my 6BM8 power amp with 600mv input sensitivity (IRRC) via the tube output.

 Initial impression was that of a compressed sound stage vs. the Peachtree Nova. I haven't had time to play around with the SS output or listen much more, but I did throw on a 2nd track I'm familiar with with it sounds pretty nice so far. I'll give it some time to break-in and try again.

 DC


----------



## muad

hey doctorcilantro

 Did you also change the opamp on the preamp? It makes a difference on the tube out, since the maverick tube circuit uses the opamp along with the tube. Not sure if you already knew so i thought i'd throw that out there.

 Also, please please please can we get pics of the opa sun in the maverick


----------



## doctorcilantro

Thanks I didn't know that. I thought it was a "true" tube output. I'll read through the thread and find an opamp to plug in.

 thanks!
 DC

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey doctorcilantro

 Did you also change the opamp on the preamp? It makes a difference on the tube out, since the maverick tube circuit uses the opamp along with the tube. Not sure if you already knew so i thought i'd throw that out there.

 Also, please please please can we get pics of the opa sun in the maverick 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## bastogne

im guessing the matrix mini-i sounds better as it is $100 more expensive, but can anyone compare between these two?

 i'm talking specifically when using both DAC and headamp together.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bastogne* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_im guessing the matrix mini-i sounds better as it is $100 more expensive, but can anyone compare between these two?

 i'm talking specifically when using both DAC and headamp together._

 

In this world(audio) I would say price means little vs quality. Just because something is cheaper wouldn't make it automatically inferior. Not trying to attack ya here though, just saying. With that logic there really is a difference between a $10 power cable and a $17000 one.


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had a Maverick before and as DAC's the EF2 and the Maverick are very similar. The Solid state headphone out of the Mav is more powerful than the EF2 and better for cans higher than 100 ohms ( Senns, Beyers). But as all of my cans are low impedence the EF2 is my AMP of choice since I like Tubes. I did try the Tube pre out of the Maverick into both the EF2 and my RA1. but still feel that the sig of the EF2 alone is better from Headphone out. I will refrain from comparing the EF and the Compass as they are to disssimilar. At the Seattle/Portland meet on 2/27. I'll have The Maverick,Zero, and Compass all there side by side for Head-Fi'ers to A/B/C.._

 


 Anyone but me?


----------



## ninjikiran

I might of found an ASIO driver for this device(Via USB), testing it now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 Edit: Doesn't want to install, guess it needs to support the device(but it seems to have quite wide support)


----------



## bastogne

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone but me?_

 

where is the seattle/portland meet?


----------



## blitzpirate

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PICTURES PLEASE!!!!!! Does it fit in both sockets? How's the clearance around the other components? Did you just leave the cover off?


 Yup, talked about a bit here:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...thread-470639/_

 

you definitely need an extension from kingwa, 1) it cannot even fit in the socket due to the components around it 2) the HDAM is too tall so you cant put the cover on, even if you somehow manage to put it in the socket.

 Here are some crappy images i took with my phone to demonstrate the maverick with extension and without, also i tried to put in an opa 627 the adapter for the opa627 i had were kinda wide and couldnt go all the way in either, they were blocked by the components around them too. so for now i will just use my lt1364 until i can find an extra extention because my zero is using the cable at the moment

ImageShack(TM) slideshow


 P.S anyone know where i can get another extension cable here in the states?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blitzpirate* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ 1) it cannot even fit in the socket due to the components around it 2) the HDAM is too tall so you cant put the cover on_

 

Would stacking a opamp socket or two give enough clearance? I'm a custom desktop computer builder and I'll probably pull out my dremel to solve issue #2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Just a matter of money to buy the HDAM's...


----------



## bastogne

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone but me?_

 

where is the seattle/portland meet?


----------



## blitzpirate

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would stacking a opamp socket or two give enough clearance? I'm a custom desktop computer builder and I'll probably pull out my dremel to solve issue #2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just a matter of money to buy the HDAM's..._

 


 i just updated my post with some pictures, tell me if that answers any of your questions. and i just checked maybe if you stacked 2 sockets it might fit, but you really want a HDAM stick out at the top of your case? i guess it might look kinda cool lol


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blitzpirate* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2 sockets it might fit, but you really want a HDAM stick out at the top of your case? i guess it might look kinda cool lol_

 

Oh, thanks. I did rough measurements and I don't know if the HDAM will fit inside the case with it closed, let alone 2 HDAM's so I figured the easiest way would be to cut a hole in the top. Were you able to close the case on yours? I was thinking of putting 1 HDAM between the PCB and the power supply then another HDAM in the area by the HP amp socket. What would you think of the space on this? I'm also concerned with shorting out against metal and other components.


----------



## blitzpirate

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh, thanks. I did rough measurements and I don't know if the HDAM will fit inside the case with it closed, let alone 2 HDAM's so I figured the easiest way would be to cut a hole in the top. Were you able to close the case on yours? I was thinking of putting 1 HDAM between the PCB and the power supply then another HDAM in the area by the HP amp socket. What would you think of the space on this? I'm also concerned with shorting out against metal and other components._

 

The space between the PSU and PCB is really tight and some parts do touch, i was afraid the heat generated from the PSU might either short or damage the whole unit or the hdam alone, and i dont think you can fit the hdam in the HP area as that is even a tighter squeeze. These HDAMS are super fat. if you need me to take a picture of a particular area for u too see just let me know.

 P.S yea i could close the case with the extension of the hdam in the dac however i felt it was too risky so i didnt bother to turn it on. i even manage to ground the wire.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blitzpirate* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The space between the PSU and PCB is really tight and some parts do touch, i was afraid the heat generated from the PSU might either short or damage the whole unit or the hdam alone, and i dont think you can fit the hdam in the HP area as that is even a tighter squeeze. These HDAMS are super fat.
 i even manage to ground the wire._

 

Thanks for the info. I've been wanting to try it for myself but getting info from someone that has one is the next best thing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I guess eventually I'll order them and check out various locations with the extensions and if nothing else, just cut holes in the case and stack opamp sockets.


----------



## igotyofire

ordered on the 2nd, or 3rd and recieved it on the 10th, very fast shipping from china, im not sure why it has all this oily stuff all over the case tho. Using the usb setup for now, need to get a TOS link cable


----------



## blitzpirate

o yea btw spanky heres my quick comparison of the zero and maverick. Strictly from a Headphone out perspective, my Zero is equipped with hdam earth+ 2x lt1364 in the headphone amp section. my Maverick is now with LT1364 in the dac and 2xlm4562 in the headphone amp section. I actually prefer the maverick over the zero, the bass out of my hd650 is actually stronger a little too much, not as refined or tight compared to the sound coming out of the zero+Little dot MKiii. the lm4562 does help the maverick alot. If i was on a budget and i just needed a good dac/amp for My headphones right now i would choose the maverick because like everybody said, the build quality is excellent the case is heavy and pretty. knobs feel of quality and many more output+input options and its only about 50+70 dollars more then the zero. But as a dac for any tube amp, i would actually choose the zero because the case is alot bigger leaving you room to roll different types of Opamps on browndog adapters or HDAMS, and its bigger so you can stack your amp on it,but like i said i just got the maverick ill see how things go. I really like the preamp section alot, that is mainly why i bought it so i could get the tube sound for my speakers without separate dac/tubeamp combo.


----------



## igotyofire

question. The tube amp function of this DAC is for use as? a pre amp? or is it another amp in itself. The reason i ask is because if i use the AMPED RCA outs to my bravo tube amp for example arent i amping the signal twice? So in theory i should just use the regular RCA outs in which case im just utilizing the DAC chip? So then what is the proper way to use the tube output if this is the case. RCA amped outputs to some sort of speakers/headphone?


----------



## muad

Sorry for wasting this space... I was slightly presumptuous in my opa627 vs lt1364 comparison. Im gonna listen more...


----------



## muad

hi igotyofire,

 The maverick doesn't have amped rca outs. Only the headphone out is amped. The tube and ss out will work fine as a preamp.


----------



## igotyofire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hi igotyofire,

 The maverick doesn't have amped rca outs. Only the headphone out is amped. The tube and ss out will work fine as a preamp._

 

i thought the reason it goes thru the tube is to amp the signal and either rca out way a digital input uses the dac chip?


----------



## muad

In the maverick the tube isn't used to amp the signal. Its to achieve a tube like sound from the preamp. Although some people on this forum were saying the preamp tube out is hotter than than the ss preamp. It works really well in my case since I'm using powered speakers so it's the only way for me to get a tube out.


----------



## bastogne

I'm guessing no one will be able to answer this since beresford is out of fashion these days, but can anyone compare how this sounds with the beresford tc7510 ?


----------



## igotyofire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In the maverick the tube isn't used to amp the signal. Its to achieve a tube like sound from the preamp. Although some people on this forum were saying the preamp tube out is hotter than than the ss preamp. It works really well in my case since I'm using powered speakers so it's the only way for me to get a tube out._

 

by hotter if u mean louder yes a bit....i just re read on the site it says its used as an output stage i guess to influence sound, and it also says the other one is the solid state out which i guess is the dac chip, but doesn't the dac chip also have to be utlized before it can make its way to the tube.


----------



## muad

Don't quote me on this but logically only the digital inputs use the dac to decode the digital signal. From there the signal becomes analogue and then goes to the opamp. From there it runs directly to the preamp ss output or to the tube and then the tube out. Maybe another member can elaborate on this? Im kinda interested to know more about what going on inside the maverick.

 thanks


----------



## _Spanky_

muad, seems logical to me. I'm not sure you can know a whole lot more without reading a schematic which Ryan, at least now, will not release. The tube IS just for flavor which could come in handy later on for those that are just getting into audio (like me) so you can still use the D1 DAC but use the tube pre-out for a separate tube amp, such as the Bravo Audio one.


----------



## muad

Btw spanky, my opa627au's came in today. At first i didn't like it at all. Kinda harsh sounding but i think I had ear fatigue from work and then concentrating too hard on listening to the new opamp  Im actually liking it alot more than the LT1364. Its much clearer and still smooth as silk. Im gonna leave it in for awhile till I get used to it and then swap it out and post some impressions.


----------



## djnagle

I've had mine running for a month or better. I move it between my family room and my home office (where I work). In the family room it is my DAC/Tube Preamp to my tri-amped all tube horn system were I have a dedicated MS. In my office I use it USB from my computer as a headphone amp. In both cases it is fantastic. I've never been a headphone guy but I REALLY like the sound of my old Grado 60s. Now I am thinking of upgrading those. One thing I have noticed is on my big system the bass is soooo much tighter, the imaging is much more exacting, BUT, the sound stage is greatly reduced. 

 Now I will roll the opamps and see if that helps the sound stage. Where are you all ordering opamps from?


----------



## muad

From digikey or straight from the manufacturer. The opa627 I ordered from browndog, premounted on browndog adapters since theyre single channel opamps


----------



## ninjikiran

I stole the opamp off my X-fi prelude(LM4562), initial impression is no change. I replaced it as the headphone output opamp(rather than the dac).

 Obviously this impression is done without comparison so in a few weeks i'll go ahead and re-swap them to get a better idea on what might of changed. I replaced the opamp furthest from the tube which I assumed was the headphone out.

 Edit: My brain is telling me I hear more nuances, common sense is telling me I am just listening harder than I usually do. My brain could possibly be right this time though but no way to really know until about a week or so of heavy listening and swapping.

 Also thought I would add I had to exert almost no real force to take the opamp out of its socket. It popped out in a gentle tug upwards with pliers, remember someone else in this thread saying it was difficult or could of mis-interpretted.

 I contacted the guy from usb-audio and he should be adding this devices PID/VID to the next driver update. Which should allow driver based asio(instead of asio4all style). That is if it even works with his driver. The interface is a C-Media USB Audio(cheap PCB they use usually for USB headphones) which is why the USB driver is very limited for windows.


----------



## boomy3555

My Maverick arrived yesterday despite my concerns about the New Years Holiday. Thanks Ryan !!.. The case still smelled like paint so I think that thay had to rush a few out the door before the Holiday. I plan on replacing the top with Plexi-glass so the overspray on the top doesn't matter. Sounds great and the tube is still burning in (I got the stock tube). I have several other tubes to roll. but until after the meet on 2/27, I'll leave it stock.


----------



## boomy3555

One option that KingWa from Compass suggested for his amp which also has a headphone amp seperate from it's HDAM feed was to feed the HDAM pre-out ( or in the case of the Mav, Tube Pre-out) directly back into the analog inputs. Basically feeding the headphone amp with the tube signal. He suggested making two RCA wires with Solen or MIT caps soldered in the signal path for a cleaner signal. Any Thoughts guys ??


----------



## igotyofire

so since i just got the latest shippment of the d1 does that mean i already have a Jan 5670W tube inside? i dont want to open it up and look yet, lil too busy for tinkering around with it, just curious on whats in there so i know what im listening too


----------



## Zaluss

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Maverick arrived yesterday despite my concerns about the New Years Holiday. Thanks Ryan !!.. The case still smelled like paint so I think that thay had to rush a few out the door before the Holiday. I plan on replacing the top with Plexi-glass so the overspray on the top doesn't matter. Sounds great and the tube is still burning in (I got the stock tube). I have several other tubes to roll. but until after the meet on 2/27, I'll leave it stock._

 

Do you make the plexiglass cover yourself? Now I want to do the same.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *igotyofire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so since i just got the latest shippment of the d1 does that mean i already have a Jan 5670W tube inside? i dont want to open it up and look yet, lil too busy for tinkering around with it, just curious on whats in there so i know what im listening too_

 

The one with the upgraded tube was the more expensive version. So it depends on what you paid for it.


----------



## igotyofire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The one with the upgraded tube was the more expensive version. So it depends on what you paid for it._

 

215+15shipped


----------



## Suedehead

For anyone out there on the fence about ordering this unit, do not hesitate. I ordered a D1 on Friday Feb. 5th and it was delivered to my door on Wednesday the 10th. I had no idea that something could be delivered from China that quickly. I have been very busy lately at work and I have yet to even open the box yet. Guess what i will be doing now? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I will be back soon with a report.


----------



## vvaffles

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Suedehead* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For anyone out there on the fence about ordering this unit, do not hesitate. I ordered a D1 on Friday Feb. 5th and it was delivered to my door on Wednesday the 10th. I had no idea that something could be delivered from China that quickly. I have been very busy lately at work and I have yet to even open the box yet. Guess what i will be doing now? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I will be back soon with a report._

 

agreed, dhl shipping was extremely fast for me as well, and the crazy customs that Canadian borders charge ended up being 8 something, i was so happy i tipped the guy 5 bux


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *igotyofire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_215+15shipped_

 

Don't know your current at that pricing, but the chinese tube version is $199 and the 5670 tube version is $219. In USD

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvaffles* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_agreed, dhl shipping was extremely fast for me as well, and the crazy customs that Canadian borders charge ended up being 8 something, i was so happy i tipped the guy 5 bux_

 

they charge you for them to rip open your package and possibly damage it?? That is some nerve, customs once half destroyed the packaging on a Wii VGA cable I got but luckily the actual cable was undamaged.


----------



## ursus65

Hi,

 I have now 20KOhm resistor, after 15 KOhm, but it is still not loud enough. It means, I can hear with full Power Volume.


----------



## Fireson

I have had the Maverick D1 since December and changed the stock tube recently for an LM Ericsson 2C51 which I obtained for the princely sum of £5 in UK money. I also changed the opamps yesterday for the lm4562 and lt1364.

 The vocals on the stock tube sounded pretty recessed as well as some roll off on the upper mids, I have around 30-40 hours on the Ericsson with a much more vibrant if slightly forward vocal sound but the soundstage sounded narrower and there was less separation on some tracks until I rolled the opamps.

 Initial impressions since rolling the opamps are improved soundstage width, separation of instruments and vocals and a more balanced sound overall. This has been initially using my Shure HD840`S through my Denon UDM 300 integrated receiver/CD trying both the solid state and tube pre out. I found some percussion on the solid state hard to listen to prior to rolling the opamps but am now very happy with the solid state sound.

 Acoustic and some rock guitar sounds from some familiar tracks have also improved with the change in opamps, I have the Jan GE 5670W to roll and a TESLA 6CC42 on its way to try in the tube as I am not 100% convinced by the Ericsson on female vocals or bass response as yet though will give it further burn in time.

 I had to give up my kit 4 years ago with the advent of kids but badly missed my music at night when they are in bed so invested in the Maverick and Shures having previously owned some decent mid to high end hifi over the past 20 years. The only previous phones I owned were some Sennheiser HD480`S which got `lost` a few years back and saw little use in my last system which was about £1500-2000 pounds worth of quality kit including Arcam, Cyrus and Ruark.

 I can`t really make a comparison with that kit as its like comparing apples with oranges but lets say I have a smile on my face again and have not been disappointed in what I got for the money.Looking forward to reading on about improvements and tweaks on the Mav though enjoying it for what it is at the moment.


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Zaluss* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you make the plexiglass cover yourself? Now I want to do the same. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 


 I got a sheet of Plexi-glass ( Lexan) from Home Depot and used my table saw to cut it to size. I run velcro across the top four corners and simply attach it with the velcro. There should be enough gap in the velcro for heat discipation.


----------



## wheelsx45

I can't wait for Feb 20 so I can order my Maverick!


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I got a sheet of Plexi-glass ( Lexan) from Home Depot and used my table saw to cut it to size. I run velcro across the top four corners and simply attach it with the velcro. There should be enough gap in the velcro for heat discipation._

 

You peaked my interest when you first brought that up but in this post it sounds like you left the cover on, put velcro on top of the metal case and then put plexiglass on top? If so, may I ask why? I thought you took the cover off, used a sheet of plexiglass and used the 4 hex screws on the top to screw it down, that's what got me excited. That way I could cut holes for the HDAM's, have better ventilation and not void the warranty


----------



## garybx

I just got my opamp order from Digikey. Now that I've popped the top off the unit, I see that there are 2 LF353N devices (U5 near the tube and U6 near the side edge of the board). Browsing back through this monstrous thread, I found one reference to putting the LT1364 near the tube (for DAC use) and putting the LM4562 in the headphone amp (near the edge of the board?). Can someone please confirm these assumptions (LT1364 to U5 and LM4562 to U6)?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *garybx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can someone please confirm these assumptions (LT1364 to U5 and LM4562 to U6)?_

 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...thread-470639/


----------



## garybx

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...thread-470639/_

 

I've reviewed that thread before and after my previous post, but I still don't see any specific mention of which part number should go to which sockets.


----------



## _Spanky_

Ah, I should probably get more specific with the U5 and U6. In short, it doesn't really matter which goes where, just a preference of sound. Lot of people including myself like the 1364 in the DAC and 4562 in the HP amp. I'll update the thread a bit with some more info and specifics. Sorry about that


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vvaffles* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_agreed, dhl shipping was extremely fast for me as well, and the crazy customs that Canadian borders charge ended up being 8 something, i was so happy i tipped the guy 5 bux_

 

Damn, mine shipment from DHL does not have any update since Wednesday. It sits in New York somewhere. Not impressed with DHL. Does not looks like I'm going to get it this long weekend. I have to endure a few more days of listening HD650 directly out of Squeezebox headphone output.


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You peaked my interest when you first brought that up but in this post it sounds like you left the cover on, put velcro on top of the metal case and then put plexiglass on top? If so, may I ask why? I thought you took the cover off, used a sheet of plexiglass and used the 4 hex screws on the top to screw it down, that's what got me excited. That way I could cut holes for the HDAM's, have better ventilation and not void the warranty 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 I should have clarified, For the Compass and Zero I only needed to place a plexiglass square on top in place of the original covers as they have sides on them after the top is removed, but for the Maverick I had to put plexiglass on both sides as well as the top to safely enclose the box.


----------



## muad

nice post Fireson

 Curious about your impression on the LM Ericsson vs the jan tube. I used the LT1364 in the tube out and just recently switched to the opa627au and may stick with those. The sound with either opamp seems recessed so Im wondering if the LM Ericsson 2C51 could make the sound more open for me. Just so were clear you tested the ericsson from the tube out or the headphone amp?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I should have clarified, For the Compass and Zero I only needed to place a plexiglass square on top in place of the original covers as they have sides on them after the top is removed, but for the Maverick I had to put plexiglass on both sides as well as the top to safely enclose the box._

 

Pics? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm thinking of doing the same thing except just leaving the sides off and adding a few personal touches.


----------



## ajuztam

also reccomend to replace stock or GE tube with Tung-Sol 2C51.


----------



## muad

I was actually looking into the Tung-Sol 2C51. How does it sound compared to a stock and ge tubes? Im trying to justify the tungsol for 90 a pair


----------



## Guy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *igotyofire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so since i just got the latest shippment of the d1 does that mean i already have a Jan 5670W tube inside? i dont want to open it up and look yet, lil too busy for tinkering around with it, just curious on whats in there so i know what im listening too_

 

Congrats on the purchase. It should be similar my XS Dac-01 you tried with your headphones at the OC meet. Hope you enjoy it.

 If you asked for the JAN 5670 tube when you ordered (I think it's an additional cost) then it should be installed. If you just ordered the stock Mav I believe it's the Chinese tube inside. BTW, If you are just using headphones then you are listening to Solid State. I tried the JAN tube feeding my power amp and I must admit I find the SS output better for my taste. I would recommend connecting the SS Pre-out to your Bravo for headphones.

 What are you using as a source ?

 Best,
 Guy

 Hope this helps,
 Guy


----------



## grokit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Guy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats on the purchase. It should be similar my XS Dac-01 you tried with your headphones at the OC meet. Hope you enjoy it.

 If you asked for the JAN 5670 tube when you ordered (I think it's an additional cost) then it should be installed. If you just ordered the stock Mav I believe it's the Chinese tube inside.y_

 

I paid $20 extra when I ordered mine with the upgraded NOS 5670 GE tube, shameless plug/pics here.


----------



## ajuztam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was actually looking into the Tung-Sol 2C51. How does it sound compared to a stock and ge tubes? Im trying to justify the tungsol for 90 a pair 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

couldnt compare to chinesse stock cuz i got my mav with upgrated one but from a research i know that tung-sol made one of the best tubes. its still burning in but to my ears it sounds better than GE already . read that there is even a better replacement TESLA but rare and expensive to get. bought 10 of them tung-sols on ebay and im selling 6 of them also on ebay if anyone is interested. im holding to 3 spare ones in case if i or one of my freinds get another d1.


----------



## boomy3555

I got some Tung Sol 5670's off of eBay for around 20.00 each. they look a bit fuuny in the amp because they are about 25% shorter in height from the stock tubes.

 Spanky, 

 I'll post some PIC's later of all three with thier tops. I was going to put some Oak sides on but was concerned about the heat from the power transformer being so near to the left side.


----------



## muad

ajuztam, could u pm me a link to your ebay sale?

 I would mind having one of these to try. I hear they can be thin sounding tho but you never know. I also just picked up 2 raytheon windmill getters and 2 of the.. actually on second thought ill tell you guys about the other 2 after the auction goes through


----------



## Fireson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_nice post Fireson

 Curious about your impression on the LM Ericsson vs the jan tube. I used the LT1364 in the tube out and just recently switched to the opa627au and may stick with those. The sound with either opamp seems recessed so Im wondering if the LM Ericsson 2C51 could make the sound more open for me. Just so were clear you tested the ericsson from the tube out or the headphone amp?_

 


 Muad thanks, I tested it out of the tube pre, I have not rolled the Jan yet as I originally had the stock chinese tube and am giving the Ericsson as much burn in as possible and would like to listen to a wider variety of music before making my mind up.
 I imagine your phones will make a difference to the sound also and the Shures have a slight rep for being forward also so I worried about the combo with this dac but the opamps seem to have reduced most of that problem.

 I have been reluctant to plug the Shures into the headphone out until I can check the DC offset in the rolled opamp as I cant afford to replace them!! As such I have been A/Bing between my Denons tube pre and the direct button for DAC sound. Will do so soon though and post any findings.

 Interestingly I note people saying the tube preouut is hot but it is lower in volume tha my denon with the DAC only and I usually have to crank it up a notch or three when cahnging back to tube pre out.


----------



## ninjikiran

I wish there was a way to arch the tube upwards and make it stick out the box. I don't use the tube out atm but I think it would be awesome to just stare at the tube as it lights up.


----------



## ajuztam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wish there was a way to arch the tube upwards and make it stick out the box. I don't use the tube out atm but I think it would be awesome to just stare at the tube as it lights up._

 

there is always a way of doing sth. this doesnt seem to be a hard task. just some tools and skills.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ajuztam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_there is always a way of doing sth. this doesnt seem to be a hard task. just some tools and skills._

 

Well there is a way but I lack the tools. My sheet metal cutting skills are not the greatest either, making an angled adapter would be the easiest part for me. (something I could remove if I decided to seriously use the tube).

 Though if I did replace the top cover I would probably get it brushed so it can match the front.


----------



## Bullettactics

im kinda interested in buying the Maverick but im not sure.How does this compare to a little dot DAC II?the difference i see is in price and the amount of inputs and outputs.i dont know about the performance of each.Maverick seems best for bang for buck.i plan on buying for computer use.i use k702 headphones.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullettactics* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_im kinda interested in buying the Maverick but im not sure.How does this compare to a little dot DAC II?the difference i see is in price and the amount of inputs and outputs.i dont know about the performance of each.Maverick seems best for bang for buck.i plan on buying for computer use.i use k702 headphones._

 

Couldn't give you a subjective difference, but the Little Dot II looks more configurable.(I don't mean the internals) The display that I assume shows output sample rate is nice. 

 Though I don't think it has swappable opamps so any change in this would require solder work. Regardless it comes with highly regarded opamps, and the dac looks a little more advanced.

 The D1 is a new product so i am sure even more features will be added as the device becomes more advanced. To be honest I am happy my D1, and I don't think you will regret going either way.

 If you are going the USB route the little dot might have a real usb driver which would allow for bit-perfect audio out of vista.(I am using coax)

 This is assuming you are only using the headphone output. The D1 is definitely a great value though even if you only use the headphone output.


----------



## sanufi

Anyone know if this little puppy is EMF shielded?


----------



## itszdenny

Does the pre-amp out sound significantly tube-y? I was thinking of using the iBasso D10 as an amp from the D1 and I want a taste of a tube amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 Also, I found a GE 5670 tube on eBay for a little less than $9. Would this be about the same as the extra $20 dollar option from Maverick?


----------



## boomy3555

One thing about "Tubing" is that the results are very subjective. I don't find the tube pre-out to be that much "Tubier" than the Headphone out, but that's stock tubes so you can't know until you try.

 Although it's an upgrade from the stock, There are many tubes better than the GE 5670. The Mullard, Tung Sol, and Telefunkens are more tubey and not that much more if you shop around and as you need only one, they are easier to find than "Matched Sets"


----------



## itszdenny

Ah, okay, thank you for your input. I was really expecting a huge difference from the fact that I am using a tube. That would have to wait until I have the cash for a decent tube amp


----------



## thearrow

Just swapped op-amps to the recommended LT1364CN8#PBF - LM4562NA/NOPB combo.

 Huge difference! Sounds soooooo goood.

 Cut down a lot of the headphone hiss, too.


----------



## Mysteek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just swapped op-amps to the recommended LT1364CN8#PBF - LM4562NA/NOPB combo.

 Huge difference! Sounds soooooo goood.

 Cut down a lot of the headphone hiss, too._

 

Is there a guide to swapping op-amps? Is doing such a thing noob-friendly?

 I'm interested, but don't know where to start and how to start searching for information.


----------



## thearrow

It's about as noob-friendly as upgrades get. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Order the parts, open up the D1, pull the old op-amps out and put the new ones in.

 No soldering or anything. 

 LT1364 goes in the socket next to the tube, LM4562 goes in the other one.


----------



## ninjikiran

I havn't put in the LT chip, waiting on it to arrive some time next week. With the LM chip though it cut down on some sharp noises I didn't notice until my ears felt more relaxed


----------



## igotyofire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Guy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Congrats on the purchase. It should be similar my XS Dac-01 you tried with your headphones at the OC meet. Hope you enjoy it.

 If you asked for the JAN 5670 tube when you ordered (I think it's an additional cost) then it should be installed. If you just ordered the stock Mav I believe it's the Chinese tube inside. BTW, If you are just using headphones then you are listening to Solid State. I tried the JAN tube feeding my power amp and I must admit I find the SS output better for my taste. I would recommend connecting the SS Pre-out to your Bravo for headphones.

 What are you using as a source ?

 Best,
 Guy

 Hope this helps,
 Guy_

 

USB,(hopefully toslink soon) i have a "denon 2910" comming soon tho as well. The plan is to get 1 more amp(phenix g3), and connect one up from the tube out, and ss out, and that way ill have a lil rig that 3 people will be able to enjoy at once all amped, Im not sure if i connect up the solid sate, tube amp at the same time if it will still output to both at the same time without creating resistance on the signal there by affecting the volume for the other listeners.


----------



## ninjikiran

Technician Spot: C-Media Headset Drivers

 These drivers allow full range in windows sound settings from 8khz to 96khz, 16-bit and 24-bit all over USB.

 Tested from 8khz to 96khz using dsound from foobar and every setting worked properly(8khz sounding terrible and 44khz+ sounding as it sound). WASAPI worked without resampling in foobar.

 I don't know if it is giving you bit-perfect though with WASAPI. No way to test this.(with spdif coax/Digital there is an audible electronic click. Don't get that with USB and there is noticeable changes between the low rates and the higher rates so the drivers are doing their job by allowing more than 48khz)

 Don't know if the drivers are doing anything strange but doesn't seem like it with a little A/B with spdif. More testing from more advanced users would be great.

 Just a warning, my virus scanner pushed up a false positive on one of the files(scanned it with two more virus scanners and came up negative. False Positive on Comodo, clean on Kasperspy and housecall)Might want to scan it yourself and take caution. Edit: ran a few more scans with various pieces of software as well as two seperate full system scans and they came up clean so it is in deed a false positive. My firewall is not bringing up anything strange and I have no strange open ports.

 You need to replace this in SoftwareDriver\Driver\cm108.inf
 To both segements below %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108,USB\VID_0D8C&PID_0001&MI_00 was added. This allows the Maverick Tube Magic D1 to be detected. If you have trouble installing it is possible your PID and VID is different if a different interface card was used.
  Code:


```
[left][C-Media] ;;;USB Product %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108,USB\VID_0D8C&PID_000C&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108,USB\VID_0D8C&PID_0107&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108,USB\VID_0D8C&PID_010F&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108,USB\VID_0D8C&PID_0115&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108,USB\VID_1940&PID_AC01&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108,USB\VID_1940&PID_AC02&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108,USB\VID_1940&PID_AC03&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108,USB\VID_0D8C&PID_0001&MI_00 [C-Media.NTamd64] %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108X64,USB\VID_0D8C&PID_000C&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108X64,USB\VID_0D8C&PID_0107&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108X64,USB\VID_0D8C&PID_010F&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108X64,USB\VID_0D8C&PID_0115&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108X64,USB\VID_1940&PID_AC01&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108X64,USB\VID_1940&PID_AC02&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108X64,USB\VID_1940&PID_AC03&MI_00 %CMIUSB.DeviceDesc%=USB108X64,USB\VID_0D8C&PID_0001&MI_00[/left]
```

edit: After you do this you can use setup.exe or if you know how manually install the driver without the added cmedia control panel(simple process but don't want to make the thread more confusing than what it is, maybe i'll add this later on if enough people ask). It is your choice. Please note this guide was made using the driver in the URL and not the newer version of the driver from xdriver.ru. The process is the same, just location of files might be different.

 edit: On Vistax64/Win7 x64 you might need to disable driver signing enforcement. This is done by simply jamming the f8 key as your computer is turning on. In the prompt you simply choose the option to load windows without driver signing enforcement. You will need to do this every time you restart your computer. 

 Image below and larger version uploaded to imageshack.


----------



## jpstereo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thearrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's about as noob-friendly as upgrades get. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Order the parts, open up the D1, pull the old op-amps out and put the new ones in.

 No soldering or anything. 

 LT1364 goes in the socket next to the tube, LM4562 goes in the other one._

 

Can you advise us of a good source for the LT1364 and LM4562 chips? How many of each do we order? Any suggestions for tube swap would be appreciated too. Many thanks!

 JP


----------



## jasonwc

Hello everyone. I'm purchasing a Sennheiser HD-580 soon, and was looking at the Maverick as a headphone amp/DAC. I've been reading the thread and it appears the physical appearance, build quality, and DAC are all very good. However, as I'm not going to use the preamp, I'm wondering how well the Maverick would operate just as a headphone amp/dac for the high impedance HD-580s. 

 Any comparison to similar offerings such as the 2009 Zero, Aune Hifidiy MK2 SE, and the Head-Direct HiFiMAN EF2 would be very helpful.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jasonwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello everyone. I'm purchasing a Sennheiser HD-580 soon, and was looking at the Maverick as a headphone amp/DAC. I've been reading the thread and it appears the physical appearance, build quality, and DAC are all very good. However, as I'm not going to use the preamp, I'm wondering how well the Maverick would operate just as a headphone amp/dac for the high impedance HD-580s. 

 Any comparison to similar offerings such as the 2009 Zero, Aune Hifidiy MK2 SE, and the Head-Direct HiFiMAN EF2 would be very helpful._

 

Thats how I use it and it works great. As I have said earlier comparisons can't be made by myself in the subjective differences but the improvement existed for me on a large level and swappable opamps mean you can easily change and tweak the basic sound signature to your liking. Default setup is great as it is though. The gain was lowered and some minor tweaks were made since I got it so its definitely an improving design and priced in such a way that it is a steal for what you get(other amps/dacs charge more for less).


----------



## muad

Quote:


 Can you advise us of a good source for the LT1364 and LM4562 chips? How many of each do we order? Any suggestions for tube swap would be appreciated too. Many thanks!

 JP 
 

Usually I use digikey but they were out of the LT1364's a few weeks ago so I ordered from arrow electronics Also I highly recommend trying the opa627 for the preamp. I much preferred that to the LT1364. You can get them cheaper from this headfi sponsor. They are still a bit pricey tho...

 edit: BTW if you decide to get the opa627 make sure you get the one labeled "OPA2627 SuperChip" ($37) because their 2xdip8 model wont fit without additional sockets and they also cost more.


----------



## jasonwc

Ryan,

 Are all the new units shipping the variant with the gain reduction? I assume I won't any hiss with high impedance headphones like the Sennheiser HD-580/600, but would hiss be an issue with my low impedance Grado SR-60's?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jasonwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryan,

 Are all the new units shipping the variant with the gain reduction? I assume I won't any hiss with high impedance headphones like the Sennheiser HD-580/600, but would hiss be an issue with my low impedance Grado SR-60's?_

 

On my MDR-7506's there is a hiss at about 3 clicks into audible levels of volume. They are very low impedence

 On the DT770pro/250ohm there is a hiss that develops a little past 50% on my volume knob(which is already way past safely audible for both your ears and headphones)

 This is with the original D1 without gain adjustments. As in the newer version of the D1 with gain adjustments shouldn't have any problem with low impedence headphones. They will eventually generate a hiss since this is supposed to support up to 600ohm headphones but much like my DT770pro/250 it'll begin to hiss w/ the volume knob at a level that you would never ever listen to. Some people in this thread have made similar gain adjustments to what Ryan did with the D1 so you can search this entire thread for "gain adjustment" or just "gain" and you might get some better first hand accounts as to how similar it would be with the proper fix + low impedence headphones.


----------



## Kitarist

For how much does it go for


----------



## igotyofire

heh My Bravo Amp doesn't quite fit in there.....too small! heh. The maverick fits nice though. I initially thought the Maverick was going to big as big as my xbox, but its actually quite a bit smaller. The setup im using now allows me to listen from my bed to (left). & also use the USB audio with the long cable provided to my computer(right). With all the features im making use of now i cant believe i almost considered the musiland monitor as i dont think i would be near as happy.


----------



## jasonwc

Few more questions-

 What is the warranty period on the D1? I see mention of a warranty and the 14-day return policy, but no statement of its length.

 Can any US buyers comment on whether they were charged any import taxes or duties for their purchase? The Maverick site mentions that this is possible.


----------



## ninjikiran

I wasn't charged any extra "tax" or "import charge".


----------



## ajuztam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jasonwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Few more questions-

 What is the warranty period on the D1? I see mention of a warranty and the 14-day return policy, but no statement of its length.

 Can any US buyers comment on whether they were charged any import taxes or duties for their purchase? The Maverick site mentions that this is possible._

 

if you live in europe you will pay around 18 extra euros.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wasn't charged any extra "tax" or "import charge"._

 

Same here. Although I would have paid an additional $20 if DHL would be more competent in the US.


----------



## jasonwc

Thanks for the response guys. I have always listened from my computer without an amp/dac. I figured with Grado SR-60's, it wouldn't be necessary. I decided to listen on one of my school's CD players - a Marantz CD-67SE, and damn, it really does sound better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I'm looking forward to having some nice HD-580s and a good DAC/AMP to play with.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Same here. Although I would have paid an additional $20 if DHL would be more competent in the US._

 

It was opposite for me, US DHL was fast and responsive. It was on hold for a few days in china. Once it got past that to where the dhl transport is, it took like a day to get here. Granted you live in who knows Wash state, and I live in a big city where they probably do far more deliveries.


----------



## _Spanky_

I know this is off-topic but DHL actually delivers there? It was my understanding that they are no longer in the US and just pass the packages off to USPS which is what they did in my case. It was sent to Ohio, passed off to USPS then delivered to my P.O. Box in Idaho. I was in contact with DHL and they had no information about my package like a tracking number or something. It was like 5 days total but DHL's support in the US is ridiculous, there's plenty of horror stories online that complain about that. Also, every time I contacted DHL via e-mail I always got a canned response that said, and I'm not kidding:
  Quote:


 Thank you for contacting Dunder Mifflin. Your email is important to us and we will respond to your inquiry as soon as possible. If this email is an inquiry regarding new products, the information is available on our website. 
 

For those un-informed:
Dunder Mifflin - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


 Anyway, I've taken ninjikiran's post and turned it into a installation tutorial with pre-modded and stripped down drivers.
 Check it out here:
Driver Installation Tutorial for Maverick Audio's TubeMagic D1
 and:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...thread-470639/


----------



## sfrancis

Ｆinally got my D1 today. Since I'm a total newbie, D1 + HD650 really blows me away. It sounds so much better than using Squeezebox to drive HD650. I can suddenly hear more sound that I never hear before. Don't want to take down the headphone once I put it on.

 Ordered the two types of opamps mentioned here but I won't start rolling them yet.


----------



## boomy3555

+DHL expanded thier door to door services to include standard package ( Non-Express) in the early 2000's to compete with UPS but failed miserably after about a year. They cut back to doing thier express still door to door and international services which were thier " Bread and Butter". They still offer a standard padkage service combined w/USPS where you ship it via DHL and they will deliver to the P.O closest to thier warehouse in the destination area which will in turn deliver via regualr post. My Last DHL Package got to my house the next day, once it got to the US. they expedite Customs by transmitting Customs forms ahead of the flight.


----------



## jasonwc

Spanky,

 So, if you set it to 16 bit, 44.1 khz output, and use the WASAPI kernel plugin in foobar2000, are you getting bit-exact output for CDs?


----------



## _Spanky_

Using my X-Fi with Coaxial I am. My onboard (motherboard) isn't bit-perfect so no matter how I use it, it won't be.

 If you're asking about USB, I don't know. It's not bit-perfect with the generic USB Audio driver. With the custom driver, I don't think it's bit-perfect but I've been wrong about things before. I didn't use it very much, just enough to test the drivers and play around a bit. Hopefully Ryan (and others) can test the driver and since he knows the behavior of the circuit maybe he can give some info on it.


----------



## jasonwc

How do you know if your soundcard supports bit-perfect output?

 I thought SPDIF can change the bit rate/frequency on the fly - hence the clicking noise when it changes. So, is SPDIF preferred over USB if it's available?


----------



## _Spanky_

For me, bit-perfect means that whenever I change to a song with a different sample rate than the previous song, I get a brief moment of hiss and a click from the D1. This happens like clockwork with SPDIF from my X-Fi. With my onboard, the clicking seems random as well as with the USB. Sometimes it'll click when opening a 44.1kHz while playing a 44.1kHz. I know my X-Fi is bit-perfect so there's no need for me to mess with anything else.

 I do however use optical SPDIF from my onboard card for videos since it gives less "popping" than my X-Fi does. I don't even think I can pass bit-perfect with videos so less "popping" means more to me for videos than bit-perfect does.

 I don't really mess with USB since I have 2 other options. I do play around with it every so often but I get noise with the USB and can sometimes hear my mouse. It's probably just USB or my motherboard. Most of the time I just leave the USB unplugged.

 *EDIT*
 Guess I didn't answer your question. For my situation, SPDIF is preferred over USB. Generally, I think SPDIF is preferred over USB. Something about jitter with USB as well as noise. Personally, and others may disagree, I think the ideal way would be optical SPDIF via TOSLINK. This isolates the 2 components so grounding and noise isn't transferred, not that you'd find a lot of it with coaxial. But... optical has that extra "converting" stage where it has to be converted into light then unconverted, whether that makes a difference or not is for the forum warriors to decide.


----------



## jasonwc

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Usually I use digikey but they were out of the LT1364's a few weeks ago so I ordered from arrow electronics Also I highly recommend trying the opa627 for the preamp. I much preferred that to the LT1364. You can get them cheaper from this headfi sponsor. They are still a bit pricey tho...

 edit: BTW if you decide to get the opa627 make sure you get the one labeled "OPA2627 SuperChip" ($37) because their 2xdip8 model wont fit without additional sockets and they also cost more._

 

Is the OPA627 also used for the headphone out?


----------



## muad

You could use the opa627 for the headphone out but I haven't tried it. Be warned about the opa627 tho. It is a slightly dark sounding opamp. But musically very nice. Really takes any harshness out of the music. Plus a very clear soundstage. The treble doesn't seem to come through as well. But it sounds very nice. I would definitely call the opa627 opamp coloured. It makes some of my badly recorded songs and bad mp3s sound quite alright. Ive never heard music sound like this...

 Btw spanky when I used bit perfect with the xfi and I changed between 24bit 96k stuff and 16bit 44k stuff it makes a very different noise than a pop. Sound almost like a motor turning something. Thats the only time I was sure I was running bit perfect. No other sound output or card I tried caused that. Only audio creation mode and the xfi set to bit perfect out and using wasapi spdif. Im kinda dissapointed that my xfi caused me so many problems...


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Btw spanky when I used bit perfect with the xfi and I changed between 24bit 96k stuff and 16bit 44k stuff it makes a very different noise than a pop. Sound almost like a motor turning something. Thats the only time I was sure I was running bit perfect. No other sound output or card I tried caused that. Only audio creation mode and the xfi set to bit perfect out and using wasapi spdif. Im kinda dissapointed that my xfi caused me so many problems..._

 

The D1 gives a very brief hiss in the output and simultaneously clicks like a switch or something. The popping I was describing is something un-related to sample rate and bit-depth.

 I've used different methods of output with my X-Fi and I've found that all the following yield the same bit-perfect results, at least on my card:
 Creative ASIO in Audio Creation Mode
 WASAPI in Audio Creation Mode
 WASAPI in Game Mode

 So since I play games, I just leave it in Game Mode. Works out pretty well


----------



## jasonwc

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You could use the opa627 for the headphone out but I haven't tried it. Be warned about the opa627 tho. It is a slightly dark sounding opamp. But musically very nice. Really takes any harshness out of the music. Plus a very clear soundstage. The treble doesn't seem to come through as well. But it sounds very nice. I would definitely call the opa627 opamp coloured. It makes some of my badly recorded songs and bad mp3s sound quite alright. Ive never heard music sound like this..._

 

In a prior post you recommended the OPA627 over the LM4562NA, which seems to be the more popular choice. How is the LM4562NA in comparison?


----------



## muad

No no, ive never tried the LM4562. The LM4562na was recommended for the headphone out. I only use the dac as my preamp (speaker out). The LT1364 was the recommended for the preamp. I was comparing that one to the opa627.


----------



## muad

Lol spanky, I just put my xfi back in and you're right. So I guess I don't have to turn on bitmatched playback! Nice


----------



## _Spanky_

I figure bit-matched playback is for ASIO. WASAPI just talks directly and bypasses the whole control panel, probably even the bit-mached playback option


----------



## muad

I guess thats the only logical explanation for it. Either way, saves me having to switch modes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think Ill keep the card in. I was gonna sell it because I was having annoying mic issues but I can just use the onboard mic and use the xfi for everything else. Plus I don't think audio creation mode liked gaming too much. Thanks for the tip


----------



## _Spanky_

No problem. As far as I know, Audio Creation Mode turns the X-Fi into a super basic sound card as far as gaming goes, so much so that you would probably be better off with onboard sound instead. In Game Mode all the goodies are there like EAX and hardware acceleration with OpenAL and whatnot.


----------



## muad

If I want eax I should turn on stereo mixing in the spdif options then?


----------



## _Spanky_

Tough question. X-Fi things are weird. I was told by Creative and also read on forums including this one that my model won't send EAX through SPDIF because only the higher models do it such as the PCI-E Titanium. They're wrong. I don't have the stereo mixing option in my control panel. The way it behaves for me is that what's sent out the analog channel is also sent out the digital as well. I can change the volume of the analog and it changes the digital as well. Your best bet is to test it yourself. You might want to check this out:
RightMark 3D Sound. Products. Audio Rightmark


----------



## muad

Well i've got the titanium, so shouldn't be a problem then. I'll just test eax in bioshock. The sound in that game is surreal!


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No no, ive never tried the LM4562. The LM4562na was recommended for the headphone out. I only use the dac as my preamp (speaker out). The LT1364 was the recommended for the preamp. I was comparing that one to the opa627._

 

Well to be exact, there are two order no. for LM4562, one is LM4562MA which is a SOIC packaging and the other LM4562NA which is a DIP packaging. You will need the NA version.


----------



## doctorcilantro

Bit-perfect relates to how the data is "streamed". No DSP and bypass Windows k-mixer (on XP). In the past this was ASIO & KS, but now we have WASAPI, and maybe DirectSound in new versions of Windows, but I don't think so??? Vista and 7 have changed things I think but I'm not an expert. The other test is to try to pass DTS to a reciever, if that works it's bit-perfect.

 the curious thing about WASAPI on non-exclusive mode is that the sound is routed through the Windows mixer (I think). Or maybe it doesn't show up in the Windows VU meter but the volume slider still affects ampitude. Maybe I'm wrong. I'd like to know more about shared mode WASAPI; I think exclusive must be used to truly bypass Windows.

 If you have drop outs it's not "bit-perfect", that's true, but that could be a latency issue or hardware problem. The bit-perfect signal is not making it to your transducers intact. Does that make sense?

 Even you do you a software sample rate conversion (upsampling) and send it out with no DSP or ReplayGain etc. that should theoretically be bit-perfect, given the output mode and device of course.

 Anyone chime to correct me, as I'm not really that up to speed on this for the most part.

 Here's some good reading on bit-perfect.
 
 DC


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For me, bit-perfect means that whenever I change to a song with a different sample rate than the previous song, I get a brief moment of hiss and a click from the D1. This happens like clockwork with SPDIF from my X-Fi. With my onboard, the clicking seems random as well as with the USB. Sometimes it'll click when opening a 44.1kHz while playing a 44.1kHz. I know my X-Fi is bit-perfect so there's no need for me to mess with anything else.

 I do however use optical SPDIF from my onboard card for videos since it gives less "popping" than my X-Fi does. I don't even think I can pass bit-perfect with videos so less "popping" means more to me for videos than bit-perfect does.

 I don't really mess with USB since I have 2 other options. I do play around with it every so often but I get noise with the USB and can sometimes hear my mouse. It's probably just USB or my motherboard. Most of the time I just leave the USB unplugged.

 *EDIT*
 Guess I didn't answer your question. For my situation, SPDIF is preferred over USB. Generally, I think SPDIF is preferred over USB. Something about jitter with USB as well as noise. Personally, and others may disagree, I think the ideal way would be optical SPDIF via TOSLINK. This isolates the 2 components so grounding and noise isn't transferred, not that you'd find a lot of it with coaxial. But... optical has that extra "converting" stage where it has to be converted into light then unconverted, whether that makes a difference or not is for the forum warriors to decide._


----------



## jasonwc

Foobar2000 uses the "exclusive" mode for WASAPI. When exclusive mode is used, no system or program sounds are mixed in, and none of sound effect settings in the driver page make a difference. For example, on my onboard Realtek soundcard, SRS and environment settings are ignored when WASAPI is used. I don't hear system noises and if another program attempts to access the sound device, it spits out an error.

 However, the Windows volume meter still works.


----------



## doctorcilantro

Yeah, well I know things changed in Vista, that's why J. River now has 3 volume control options:

 System
 Internal
 Application

 Matt at J. river said it was actually not the best revision they did even given all the hype about how much better Vista+ are. I guess things are going in the right direction with WASAPI though.

 For me, it was strange to have Windows 7 have some control over my old EMU 1212M, when previously Windows would not touch the card (i.e. you could not change the volume if it was the default device); everything had to be done in EMU patchmix - Windows was locked out even for Wav not just ASIO.

 DC

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jasonwc* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Foobar2000 uses the "exclusive" mode for WASAPI. When exclusive mode is used, no system or program sounds are mixed in, and none of sound effect settings in the driver page make a difference. For example, on my onboard Realtek soundcard, SRS and environment settings are ignored when WASAPI is used. I don't hear system noises and if another program attempts to access the sound device, it spits out an error.

 However, the Windows volume meter still works._


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *doctorcilantro* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you have drop outs it's not "bit-perfect", that's true, but that could be a latency issue or hardware problem. The bit-perfect signal is not making it to your transducers intact. Does that make sense?_

 

If you were talking about my "popping" as drop outs then I should probably clarify. I don't get popping while using WASAPI, only while playing videos and using the output of my X-Fi. I still suspect some kind of buffer issue or hardware related issue since it happens in both MPC-HC and VLC but completely goes away with my onboard SPDIF. Bit-perfect doesn't matter to me (damn hard to get if not impossible) for videos since it's mostly lossy audio.


----------



## tommo21

Well! Had my D1 for a month now.....extremely happy with it......done a little opamp-rolling and changed the stock-tube to a Raytheon 5670 D-getter tube. Gone a bit ebay-crazy and ordered around 10 other tubes to try out. Including WE396a 1949, Raytheon 5670 Windmill, RCA Command 5670, National 5670, CBS 5670 Black plate, Sylvania 5670, GE 5670 Five star, GE black plates and of course the GE Jan tube which Ryan sent me since I did'nt get it with the D1. Not feeling the need to fork out crazy money for a Bendix tube yet.....but who knows

 I've also got av few opamps on the way. Of course the LT1364 and the LM4562NA. I've tried the LM49720HA and currently trying out the OPA6107. Also got 627's and 637's on standby to try. Gotten myself the Shure SHR 840's as well...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 One negative thing about the D1.....that the outputs doesn't mute when using Headphones.....but that's it....


----------



## weibby

I like the 840/D1 combo
 very very lush mids, good bass extensions.

 I think with a better opamp it'll be more engaging plus the reduction of the gain and volume pot changes would not cause the highs to distort.


----------



## tommo21

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the 840/D1 combo
 very very lush mids, good bass extensions.

 I think with a better opamp it'll be more engaging plus the reduction of the gain and volume pot changes would not cause the highs to distort._

 

Yeah..I'm loving the SHR 840's so far....very comfortable and musical. I've also got the Bravo Audio V2 tubeamp on the way, and am considering to invest in the Senn HD650 as well.....It's getting expensive this...but hey....when I hear the music and how beautiful it sounds, I know it's worth it...


----------



## muad

Hey tommo

 Looking forward to hearing your thoughts on preamp tube and opamp rolling. Ive got the opa627 and the ge jan 5670 right now and some raytheon windmill getters on the way. I love the sound of the 627 but Im hoping the raytheon windmill's will bring the highs out a bit more. Anyways, keep us updated


----------



## GPollos

Feb 20th! An exciting day for sure!

 Mav Audio resumes shipping, I can finally get my D1. So excited 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can't wait to hear the improvement of my Swans.


----------



## muad

moved


----------



## igotyofire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tommo21* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One negative thing about the D1.....that the outputs doesn't mute when using Headphones.....but that's it....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

eh,not a negative imo. im extremely happy they dont because i want to connect 2 amps up to the d1, and use the internal headphone amp, to get 3 listeners at the same time involved, anyone for see a problem with this?


----------



## muad

Ohhh... I figured out why the opa627's highs didn't sound quite right in the preamp.... It turns out base gets though dirty ears much easier than treble. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And so my cheapest upgrade yet... Buy Q-Tips from Canada at Well.ca - Free Shipping 

 and a little hint! They're even cheaper if you buy singles


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *igotyofire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_eh,not a negative imo. im extremely happy they dont because i want to connect 2 amps up to the d1, and use the internal headphone amp, to get 3 listeners at the same time involved, anyone for see a problem with this?_

 

Shouldn't be a problem. I've used the headphone out along with the tube pre-amp out to my powered speakers.

 muad, TMI.


----------



## muad

.


----------



## Fireson

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tommo21* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah..I'm loving the SHR 840's so far....very comfortable and musical. I've also got the Bravo Audio V2 tubeamp on the way, and am considering to invest in the Senn HD650 as well.....It's getting expensive this...but hey....when I hear the music and how beautiful it sounds, I know it's worth it...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 Tommo you didn`t post by the name of Andrea on another forum by any chance did you??


----------



## tommo21

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fireson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Tommo you didn`t post by the name of Andrea on another forum by any chance did you??_

 


 Nope....why are you wondering about that?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ohhh... I figured out why the opa627's highs didn't sound quite right in the preamp.... It turns out base gets though dirty ears much easier than treble. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And so my cheapest upgrade yet... Buy Q-Tips from Canada at Well.ca - Free Shipping 

 and a little hint! They're even cheaper if you buy singles_

 

Yep, you should go to the ear doctor every so often as well, you would be surprised what builds up in there to obstruct your audio pathway. No matter how clean you are, no matter how well you clean your ears it happens naturally.

 Once I got something near my ear drum, half near obstructed my hearing, when they took it out it was like having a new set of ears. Even normal ear crud that is relatively deep inside that is not easily accessible by a q-tip can change your hearing I would consider quite dramatically.


----------



## jasonwc

Doctors recommend that you don't use q-tips. My ear, nose & throat physician recommended the use of one of those liquid concoctions sold at any pharmacy that you dump into your ear. It reacts with the wax, breaking it down, and then you just remove the liquid, and let your ears air out. This will almost clear out all the wax without any risk of damaging your ear drums.


----------



## TheBigCW

FWIW, I just tested the high-gain version of the Maverick with the 32 ohm MS1 and there's no hiss.


----------



## ajuztam

Here is photo of my first mods on this dac. Opamps swapped for OPA627 and AD8599 for headphone out. LM4562 and LT1364 to be tested soon but as far as i can hear 627s are the best sounding ones. Tube changed to Tung-Sol 2C51. Swapped that ugly blue LED for a dark red one. In nearest future all capacitors will be changed to OS-CON for digital and Elna Silmic for analog. Also have to change resistors in headphone amp to adjust it to my K702.


----------



## _Spanky_

ajuztam, could you provide more details on your experiences with the OPA627 and AD8599? Are you using the OPA627 for the DAC and the AD8599 for the amp? How's the DC offset of the AD8599? What are the improvements you hear in the Tung-Sol 2C51? Any information you provide, I'll put in my condensed FAQ and Info thread. Thanks.


----------



## muad

ajutzam, I have to agree with you on the opa627. After switching back and forth between that and the LT1364 I've made up my mind that the OPA627 is my permanent opamp for the tube preamp, at least until I try the bursons. Along with the info spanky asked for, please keep us in the loop on the capacitor change.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've made up my mind that the OPA627 is my permanent opamp for the tube preamp_

 

You guys mean the DAC socket? What makes it better than the LT1364 or LF353N?


----------



## MartinV56

Notes on audio Opamps, very intersting


Notes on Audio Op-Amps


----------



## muad

Spanky, Yes, its for the dac socket. The opa627 is very clean sounding, laid back but not too dark or anything. The base is perfect! The mids are clean very nicely defined. The treble flows very nicely but its a little recessed which seems to hide recording imperfections nicely. The laid back character of this opamp really smooths out grainy/bad recordings. Its a great opamp to day dream to! (cheesy I know but thats what it sounds like)

 For the faq you could just describe it as clean and laidback


----------



## _Spanky_

Thanks muad. I'm overhauling the thread so this will be a nice addition


----------



## muad

Np 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just wondering has anyone one here tried/thought of putting a remote ir pot for the volume control? Is this possible or should I just give up now?


----------



## _Spanky_

muad... Anything is possible 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think I've done a halfway decent job on the FAQ and Info thread so, I'd like some feedback on it. If you're reading this thread...

 [size=x-large]PLEASE check out:[/size]
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...thread-470639/


----------



## radicalrev

Don't think I can read all of the 80 page posts...

 But to sum it up, can anyone with the D1 share their opinion with the headphone amp section? How is the sound quality compared to other SS hp amp (particularly Little Dot MKV)?


----------



## _Spanky_

radicalrev, you can search the thread. I know the Little Dot has been talked about. There are also a few reviews in my http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...thread-470639/


----------



## xcluded

which model of opa627 is it correct ?
 i search the farnell website and got these...

 OPA627AP (Texas instrument)
 OPA627APG4 (Texas instrument)
 OPA627BP (Texas instrument)


----------



## muad

Im using the opa627au. They're single channel opamps so you need two and an adapter. I just grabbed the pre-mounted ones from browndog so I wouldn't have to do any soldering. You can also get it for cheaper from here. There are 2 different models on that site. The one with separate adapter and opamps costs more and may not easily fit in the maverick. The $37 dollar one is the one that works.


----------



## _Spanky_

OPA627AU is the SOIC (surface mounted) and the OPA627BP is the DIP socketed one. It doesn't really matter which you get but you need to get the single to dual opamp adapter that fits.

 This:
http://cimarrontechnology.com/Produc...0302topbot.jpg
 Is for SOIC opamps.

 This:
http://cimarrontechnology.com/Produc...ers/021001.JPG
 Is for DIP opamps.

 They all do the same thing


----------



## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im using the opa627au. They're single channel opamps so you need two and an adapter. I just grabbed the pre-mounted ones from browndog so I wouldn't have to do any soldering. You can also get it for cheaper from here. There are 2 different models on that site. The one with separate adapter and opamps costs more and may not easily fit in the maverick. The $37 dollar one is the one that works._

 

ok thanks muad and spanky


----------



## sfrancis

I'm curious as to how people use d1:

 1. headphone amp -- connect headphone directly to D1. This is what I'm doing now.
 2. DAC -- use D1 as DAC to feed into another amp;
 3. pre-amp: I guess to connect pre-amp output of D1 to another amplified and then to speaker ? -- I plan to try this sometime, i.e., connect the pre-amp output to my Pioneer Receiver and then to a bookshelf speaker to compare.

 Thanks


----------



## xcluded

i'm using this way...

 computer soundcard(HT claro) optical out -> D1 optical -> headphone out


----------



## muad

Me... this way

 Creative xfi optical out -> Maverick d1 -> Audioengine a5 (powered speakers)


----------



## weibby

muad how does the pairing with A5 sounds like?
 Does the bass tighten up and opens up the resolution?


----------



## jpstereo

Laptop USB out -> Maverick D1 (tube output) -> Rega Brio (Integrated Amp) -> Tekton Design Monitors


----------



## tommo21

Desktop optical out > D1 > Swans M-200MKIII Powered speakers(Tube out) and XTZ 8.16 Sub(Normal out)


----------



## Zaluss

USB Desktop/Digital Coax to SB3 > D1 > Denon 1802 > Hafler DH200 > Strata Mini's.


----------



## MartinV56

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm curious as to how people use d1:

 1. headphone amp -- connect headphone directly to D1. This is what I'm doing now.
 2. DAC -- use D1 as DAC to feed into another amp;
 3. pre-amp: I guess to connect pre-amp output of D1 to another amplified and then to speaker ? -- I plan to try this sometime, i.e., connect the pre-amp output to my Pioneer Receiver and then to a bookshelf speaker to compare.

 Thanks_

 

2 and 3 option

 Use As Dac 
 Preamp output SS and Tube to amps


----------



## muad

Weiby, with the maverick the A5's sound excellent. With my old xfi the highs were very shrill. The d1 smoothed out everything. Definitely made the Audioengine's very easy to listen to, less fatiguing than the xfi. What do you mean by opens up the resolution? The sound stage is great, and depending on the recording it's very easy to pick out every instrument and every note. BTW with the A5 speakers the maverick sounds amazing with the opa627 in the preamp.

 Also, the other day I took my A5's over to a friends house. He was thinking of buying a pair to use with his auzentech prelude. After we set the card up right it sounded ok but it needed something. I went and got my maverick... within 10 min he decided to order one and a the opa627. I personally think they're a good combination, but I've never heard another quality dac with it...

 And another thing, the a5 are extremely positional. For example with the maverick and opa627 it seemed to me that Ive lost my highs and some mids, they were extremely recessed. The A5's were already raised up to ear level, 6 inches from the back wall and as far apart as I could get them (40"). I fixed the lost frequencies by pulling them off the back wall about 14 inches, so they're an arms length plus 6 inches from me. That put all the frequencies back to where they belong and put me in the middle of the soundstage


----------



## sfrancis

Ｔhanks for the feedback. It's interesting that quite a few use D1 as pre-amp.

 I wonder how does the D1 headphone output compares with a dedicated headphone amp for HD650 ? e.g., Little Dot II/III.


----------



## weibby

wow nice.


----------



## weibby

i think they need good isolation pads, these lil monsters are crazy hard to tame the bass.
 They're so powerful that I can't turn them up more than 11 pm, because the vibration from the desk makes teh bass sounds like farts.


----------



## muad

Lol, When I got them the first thing I ordered were some auralex pads, Still doesn't help that they make the lights in my room vibrate!


----------



## ninjikiran

I use the Headphone Amp/Dac

 Pretty sure using every other connection turns it into a pre-amp.


----------



## muad

I think I may have put my foot in my mouth. After long listening sessions I found an issue with the opa627. The vocals in some songs get lost in the mids. Songs like coldplay's "42" for example and others. No real separation on that frequency I suppose. Listening to the LT1364's open and airy nature shows the contrast quite well. It's too bad really, the opa627 sounded very very clean. I think it sounds great depending on your taste in music. But I listen to every genre (except country of course) and the opa627 doesn't cater well to some of them. The LT1364 is more well rounded, Ill just have to give up that ultra clean sound.


----------



## muad

*Important:* for the LT1364

 I was doing some research on opamps and read that the LT1364 is a high speed opamp and that in some circuits it can run hot. Well it's pretty damn hot to the touch after a couple of hours but I get no distortions with it. Just to be safe, putting a heatsink on the opamp could possibly prevent any damge to the opamp and the socket/maverick.


----------



## xcluded

i have yet to touch the opamp inside. but i guess it can be hot.

 the LT1364 Operating Temperature Range: -40°C to +85°C 

 i touched the casing only , yeah it is very hot.

 i wonder if it does any harm in long term.....


----------



## weibby

tubes are warm in general.
 If you're concern why not leave the casing abit open to allow ventilation.


----------



## djnagle

Just had 30 guys over yesterday and all the ones that commented, really liked the D1. I'm sure it made a couple sales for Ryan. I have yet to roll anything due to time, but plan on rolling the opamp for the preamp and headphone amp but need to read up on this....SS is something I've never played with before.


----------



## igotyofire

i gotta love how the chinese copy each others knockoffs....i just saw this hilly? looks almost identical to the maverick


----------



## muad

Lol, xiang sheng is probably thinking that the colour is the reason the maverick is selling so well?


----------



## weibby

maverick is a xiang sheng mutation.
 Mav OEM'ed from XS with the first version.

 The new one is abt the same just that with a bypass switch and some circuitry revision.


----------



## trungkien978

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FraGGleR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have emailed them about the internal specs as I find the exterior design to be beautiful. Hardware specifications | Maverick Audio - Home of the amazing Tube Magic DAC + Headphone Amplifier + Tube Pre-Amp Poking around their website, they show a picture of a cirrus logic chipset that they say is the same as the xfi fatality soundcard. Don't know if that is a good thing or a bad thing._

 

that x-fi has 109 SNR, which is not the best kind


----------



## _Spanky_

Nice find muad. I currently have a heatsink poorly attached to the top of my D1 just to draw some heat off of the case from the tube, I hadn't given any thought to the opamps... I haven't had any problems with the LT1364 as far as distortion or symptoms of overheating but summer is coming. Maybe I'll whip out the dremel and make a small heatsink 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll add the heat issue to my condensed thread.


----------



## ajuztam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice find muad. I currently have a heatsink poorly attached to the top of my D1 just to draw some heat off of the case from the tube, I hadn't given any thought to the opamps... I haven't had any problems with the LT1364 as far as distortion or symptoms of overheating but summer is coming. Maybe I'll whip out the dremel and make a small heatsink 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll add the heat issue to my condensed thread._

 

I dont know if every D1 is heats so much that it becomes hot but the one i got doensnt. before i rolled tube and opamps was warm like you can expect from a tube but never hot. after upgrade its even cooler. pair of opa627s generate non heat to my finger 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. AD8599 in headphone out gets hotter. tung-sol tube also generates less heat and light than ge one i got with d1.


----------



## muad

Well I find all the other chips including the opa627 are fine, just a little warm. The LT1364 is a high speed opamp and in certain circuits it gets hot. It's probably below the max recommended operating temperature (85c) but not by much. Either way I threw on a copper heatsink for peace of mind.


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea I wouldn't say mine gets HOT, just a bit warm to the touch. But the way I figure is if that heat is from the tube, it has to pass about 1/4" of air then get through painted steel and that's a lot of loss so what you feel on the outside may not be what it is on the inside. The stock D1 doesn't over heat or malfunction because of heat but it does get a little warm due to the tube which most likely heats surrounding components. I didn't open up my unit and run it a while to check the warmth of the LT1364 but if it gets warm then that may be something to think about.

 Personally I hate heat and I want my equipment to last as long as possible so with that said, I took a little time to do something nifty:
 Opamp Heatsinks: 1 | 2
 Case Heatsink: 1
 I took some spare heatsinks I had, cut some to size for the opamps, applied crazy small amounts of Arctic Silver 5 and then stuck the heatsinks on with pressure and hot-glued them into place. It's completely overkill but with minimal time and spare parts, why not.

 *edit*
 muad lol... pics man


----------



## muad

Haha nice work! I dont have a camera on hand but Ill see what I can do!

 edit: some pics!

one
two


----------



## elwappo99

I still check this forum now and then even though i moved on from a maverick dac. But for the sake of remembering

 The Maverick DAC is a copy of the Xiang Sheng DAC_01. This same dac is offered by Grant Fidelity here. When the Maverick DAC came out it was a big fuss at grant fidelity, since it was the same dac/amp but at half the cost. (At the time Grant Fidelity was selling for $400). There was a whole thread at audio karma with grant fidelity defending themselves. So, the maverick was the knockoff
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *igotyofire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i gotta love how the chinese copy each others knockoffs....i just saw this hilly? looks almost identical to the maverick




_


----------



## GPollos

That may be true, but the Maverick has since evolved into it's own product as far as I can tell.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GPollos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That may be true, but the Maverick has since evolved into it's own product as far as I can tell._

 

Bingo. As well as being cheaper (cost) and having helpful and fast support.


----------



## muad

Quote:


 Bingo. As well as being cheaper (cost) and having helpful and fast support. 
 

Almost too good to be true! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I was wondering if anyone with the maverick could give me some impressions of the LM4562 in the preamp/tube socket. So I have an idea before I order one...

 thanks


----------



## igotyofire

my point in posting the unit in the 1st place was just to show how there is a knock off....of a knock off now. Its amazing how the chinese are takeing away the market from each other back in forth or atleast attempting too.


----------



## weibby

Hard to say which is a knock off when OEM is quite common.
 Open up the D1 and the PSU has 翔升 on it, thats xiangsheng lol


----------



## xcluded

who knocks off who , doesn't matter. in today's world , this will become a norm.

 as long the price is reasonable and it performs well enough , then it is justified.


----------



## ajuztam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *muad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Almost too good to be true! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was wondering if anyone with the maverick could give me some impressions of the LM4562 in the preamp/tube socket. So I have an idea before I order one...

 thanks_

 

im testing it at the moment. got it today. its fifth different one so far and it sounds nice. better than AD8599. good control of low tones. middle and high sound good as well. vocals very natural. nothing wrong i find about its performance. it doesnt even heat much. i will have to choose between OPA627 and LM4562 now. there is one more that may sound fine with d1. its AD8620 which is on its way to me. have to give it some time to choose the right one and by the time ill probably collect ten different ones. now i need a best setup for akg k702 in headphone amp section so if anyone did something in this direction please share.


----------



## muad

Great, Then I'm gonna go ahead and pick up the LM4562/LME49720. Looks like my collection is growing too!


----------



## sfrancis

This maybe a bit off topic but I hope someone can give a hand: I currently use Squeezebox Classic (SB3) as my source and connect it with D1 through optical link. In Squeeze center setting, I chose "audio output volume fixed at 100%", as this bypass volume adjustment of SB3 and allows a direct digital pass-through according to logitech. The problem is that when I do this and connect HD650 to headphone output of D1, it's way too loud at very low volume. I can barely lesson pass 9 o'clock for most songs.

 BTW, my unit has the gain setting lowered according to Ryan.

 Any comment ?


----------



## ajuztam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This maybe a bit off topic but I hope someone can give a hand: I currently use Squeezebox Classic (SB3) as my source and connect it with D1 through optical link. In Squeeze center setting, I chose "audio output volume fixed at 100%", as this bypass volume adjustment of SB3 and allows a direct digital pass-through according to logitech. The problem is that when I do this and connect HD650 to headphone output of D1, it's way too loud at very low volume. I can barely lesson pass 9 o'clock for most songs.

 BTW, my unit has the gain setting lowered according to Ryan.

 Any comment ?_

 

it looks like its not low enough for your cans. play with them two resistors and surely you will find a right setup.


----------



## watusi

So is the gain on the new D1's still very high? I'm so close to ordering one but concerned it'll be too high gain for my Ultrasone Pro 750's


----------



## _Spanky_

I think Ryan said the gain was down either 30 or 40%, I can't remember which.


----------



## sfrancis

Well, when I think more about this, this should have nothing to do with my squeezebox source, as it just act as a digital pass through and all volume control is done at D1. So is this specific to HD650 ? Any other people using D1 with HD650 ?What's the volume setting you had ?

 Was trying to avoid doing the soldering but looks like I may forced to do it. Now just need to find where to get these resistors.


----------



## breakfastchef

I ordered the Maverick a day ago for the tube-output/DAC function only. I do not care about the headphone section. I currently interface a Beresford TC-7520 from my Squeezebox Duet to my DIY tube stereo system. As with the Beresford DAC, I care less about the ability of the HP output.

 The Beresford unit makes a very, very nice sound improvement to the FLAC files stored on an external hard drive and streamed through my Duet and into my DIY tube system. Should I expect a similar sound enhancement from the tube output of the Maverick?


----------



## boomy3555

There is an eBay seller named Awwan that sells inline resistors

eBay Seller: awwan: Electronics items on eBay.com

 I have only purchased one from him but found it well made and surprisingly transparent.


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is an eBay seller named Awwan that sells inline resistors

eBay Seller: awwan: Electronics items on eBay.com

 I have only purchased one from him but found it well made and surprisingly transparent._

 

Thanks for the lead. I will check it out.


----------



## sfrancis

Ok, did some tests tonight as I find some time:

 1. compare the following 2 scenarios:

 A, set squeezebox volume to fixed 100% (bypass volume control and allow perfect digital pass through);
 B. Set squeezebox volume to 60% and turn up the volume on D1

 Tried a few of tracks on hi fi test CD. I definitely prefer A as it has more details and bass a lot more punch. Also when I test a track on Chesky Records (Bass resonance), with B, I can turn up volume pass 11 o'clock to get comfortable level for HD650, however, I can also hear clearly the background hiss. Turning back to A eliminate the hiss completely, although volume setting on D1 is still around 9 o'clock.

 Conclusion: I will need to stay with fixed 100% volume for squeezebox;

 2. Finally opened up the case to replace the headphone opamp. Took me a while to take the case out as the case seem to stuck a bit and there is no handle to pull it.

 Changing opamp is just as easy as what has been mentioned here and on the FAQ thread (did refer to that thread to find which RefDes to change). Was planning to test DC offset with my multi-meter only to find that it runs out of battery. Hate the fact that it needs 9V battery. So instead used an old ipod ear phone to soak test it for about an hour while I'm doing something else before I plug in HD650.

 As what has been mentioned, LM4562 does give less shrill and I definitely prefer it over the stock opamp.

 Have not played with LT1364 as I find that I ordered the wrong package. Will have to buy the correct ones again.


----------



## radicalrev

Which of the following will you choose, assuming price is equal.

 Maverick D1 OR Little Dot DAC II??

 Which do you think perform better?


----------



## weibby

DAC II


----------



## radicalrev

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_DAC II_

 

Why would you say so?


----------



## weibby

does 24 bit fine, good build quality.


----------



## _Spanky_

Well, be fair. The Little Dot DAC II is just that, a DAC. The D1 has more features. If you only need a DAC, yea it might be wiser to spend the money on a specific high-quality DAC for your needs.


----------



## Crookshank

Using the digital inputs or line in both outputs will work?


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Crookshank* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Using the digital inputs or line in both outputs will work?_

 

Both tube pre out and normal solid state output will work simultaneously.
 You can select your audio source ( digital inputs or line-in) by using the audio source switch.


----------



## elwappo99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, be fair. The Little Dot DAC II is just that, a DAC. The D1 has more features. If you only need a DAC, yea it might be wiser to spend the money on a specific high-quality DAC for your needs._

 

The little dot dac I is just a dac. The little dot DAC II includes a built in headphone amplifier.


----------



## _Spanky_

I stand corrected 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Don't listen to me lol.


----------



## elwappo99

Oh it's quite alright. The Little dot DAC_II is relatively new, and the Little dot site has been out for awhile, so news of it hasn't really spread. 

 I think the DAC_II and Maverick should be a interesting comparison. I've never heard the MKI (The headphone amp in the DAC_II) But a straight DAC vs DAC comparison, Little dot wins. I definitely liked the Maverick's tube out going to my little dot MKV.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I stand corrected 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Don't listen to me lol._


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea, I tried looking around for specs on the LD but couldn't find anything. Anyway, I really think the TubeMagic D1 is an excellent starter or advanced starter unit. You can use it for a wide variety of uses but also upgrade with it in the future like using the DAC and tube out to a nice tube amp. That's one of the reasons why I chose it, I always look for upgrade potential with things that I buy


----------



## ninjikiran

The Little Dot accepts 192khz which by all means is quite too much for just about everyone.

 Never heard the DAC before but I wouldn't assume anything until you hear it with no preconceptions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and that is being fair. Maybe some time down the line I can do this, but lets be honest for most price and pre-conception colors the audio. Not trying to sound like a fan boy, but this forum has made me a cynic.


----------



## Bullettactics

Is it better to use toslink over usb?im not understanding the whole issue being brought up with using usb.


----------



## GPollos

Great news all!

 My mav arrived this morning! $12 in customs fees, but whatever. 

 Unboxed it (and took pics, will add later). Ran about 10 mins of pink noise through it after I let it warm up before playing some tunes. 

 First impression:

 I'm not very good at critical listening, but I must say sarcastically that I hate you all for introducing me to this world of much better sounding music. 

 That is all.


----------



## boomy3555

And so the wallet shrinks. The MAV realy does need some good cans. (Denon 2k's.Senn HD600's,Grado 325's, etc.)I founf it OK with my C-3 Custom IEM's but it's a bit overkill for IEM's in general.


----------



## sfrancis

Searched through the posts here and it appears that with HD650, a few people are using volume dial around 9 o'clock. I assumed that this is not really preferred. I'm debating if I should do the soldering thing to change R54/R55. Although I'm involved in printed circuit board design on a daily bases, I have not tried many times with soldering iron. Looking at the board layout, one of the resistor seems a bit difficult to reach. Guess I need a smaller solder iron.

 Anyone who can share your tricks on changing these resistors ?

 Also Ryan mentioned 4.7k value for HD650. Anybody else can confirm that ?

 Thanks


----------



## boomy3555

I ran optical out from Marantz CD to the three major contenders Maverick,Zero, and Compass at a meet this last weekend and the Maverick did run a close second among the listeners just below the Compass. But then again the Compass starts out at over 100.00 USD more.


----------



## MartinV56

Has anyone tried the maverick as buffer tube connected to a NOS Dac ( Valab, Fathom, Gigalab, Teradak)


----------



## _Spanky_

sfrancis, you will have to solder initially but I highly recommend doing what bearmann did. I put it in the condensed faq thread. Basically, he cut up an opamp socket so he could swap resistors easily. This will allow you to find the one you want without having to solder a bunch of times and have a higher chance of damaging the PCB.

 boomy, good to know. I think you're one of the few if not the only one that has all 3 or at least owned all 3 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The Compass was nice but it's sad to see that it's discontinued. There's that FUN thing now but it confuses me lol. With the Zero's reliability and lack of support and Kingwa changing a lot around, I think the Maverick D1 should rise up.


----------



## GPollos

Ok, although I've seen this question posed before:

 What are the most common websites to order opamps from for rolling? Preferably ones that offer free samples. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I want to roll a few if I can get them for free, being a cheap college student and all.

 I'm enjoying the D1 alot though. I'm free from the onboard realtek ALC888! Hoorah!


----------



## boomy3555

Most of the modules that Quingwa offers are simply upgraded DACs and optical in's. The fun is the wave of the future and I agree that Maverick and Zero should also look into pop in upgrades as well as a line from the tube to the headphone out.


----------



## itszdenny

I recently bought a D1 and had an incredibly pleasant transaction with DHL, Ryan, and Maverick Audio. The package was picked up from Mav by DHL on Thursday and arrived at my front door the following Monday ^^. 

 I immediately swapped out the DAC opamp, but my headphone amp opamp is still in the mail.

 Also waiting for my tube amp. Then I will be a happy camper with my DT880s 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## sfrancis

I got my opamp from ebay, about $10 for 2 pieces.


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I ran optical out from Marantz CD to the three major contenders Maverick,Zero, and Compass at a meet this last weekend and the Maverick did run a close second among the listeners just below the Compass. But then again the Compass starts out at over 100.00 USD more._

 

boomy3555: Thanks for sharing. Wonder what's the main advantage for compass against D1 ?

 Another D1 user plan to get FUN and I'm curious on his comparison.


----------



## sfrancis

Thanks, Spanky. I did read the FAQ and saw that implementation. Will need to dig a bit more on the details.

 Anybody else feel the need to change resistor for HD650 ?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anybody else feel the need to change resistor for HD650 ?_

 

I kinda want to for my Beyer's. Not sure when or what resistor I'll like though. I'll post up when I do.


----------



## sfrancis

Thanks, Spanky.

 where do we buy one of these ?


----------



## thearrow

From spanky's FAQ thread:

8 PIN SOLDER TAIL DIP SOCKET - 08-3518-10

 Got mine today, along with a bunch of resistors and a couple heatsinks


----------



## sfrancis

thearrow: thanks. Looks like they have a canadian site as well. I may order some too.

 I guess one just take out the pins from the socket and solder it on ? Do let us know how difficult the soldering is.


----------



## _Spanky_

Way to go thearrow! Show us some pics!


----------



## thearrow

Haven't had time to try the soldering yet, but when I do I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## jjsoviet

Interested in this versatile DAC/amp. In terms of DAC performance alone, will the Maverick D1 do well against something like the NuForce uDAC? Seeing that I only have limited funds for a standalone DAC and Amp, maybe this combo device will do. Does is upsample too or not?

 And also, will it substantially improve the sound of active desktop monitors? I have a pair of M-Audio AV30's and I figured out that plugging them to the D1's RCA out will make them sound better. 

 Lastly, is the D1 a good pair-up to the HD555's and HD25-1 (70 ohm) headphones? Seeing that most of you use the Mav to higher-impedance cans like the HD600 I'm wondering if using it on lower-impedance ones would be a bit overkill.

 Thanks all for your future responses and have a good day.


----------



## breakfastchef

I recieved my Maverick yesterday. It is every bit as good as the Beresford TC-7510 I replaced it with. I use the Maverick primarily as a DAC using the tube out to my tube speaker system. I A/B'ed the tube output and the analog output to my sound system and enjoyed the tube output much better. I will listen for a week or two before I intoduce a better tube (i.e. Raythron with a Windmill Getter).

 I have very, very limited expereince with higher priced DACs, but can find no reason why a budding audiophile would not jump on a low-priced DAC like the TubeMagic. The sound difference/enhancement is quite exciting.

 I do not really need the headphone section, and have not evaluated it.


----------



## jjsoviet

So will the tube output be better for speakers? I'm interested in hearing that elusive "tube sound" for the first time!


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjsoviet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So will the tube output be better for speakers? I'm interested in hearing that elusive "tube sound" for the first time!_

 

 The tube will flavor the pre-out RCA's but then you will be required to run to your regular amp to power your speakers. The SQ difference of the speakers with tubes or without will be just as subjective as which cans to use.


----------



## neddamttocs

Got mine yesterday and wow ... quite a nice jump from onboard sound. I have my CD player hooked up via optical and my PC via USB.

 My speakers are hooked up to the tube output which sounded better then ss.


----------



## DanFromIndy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The tube will flavor the pre-out RCA's but then you will be required to run to your regular amp to power your speakers. The SQ difference of the speakers with tubes or without will be just as subjective as which cans to use._

 

OK, I am a little confused and could use some help from someone. I just got my Maverick on Monday, and it is the first piece of equipment like this I have bought. Next up is speakers, but your post brings up a quick question I don't think is in the FAQ (if it is, I apologize):

 Will the Maverick work with both powered and non-powered speakers? 

 If so, is there a difference in how to hook them up?

 It sound like with non-powered, I need to hook it to the "Normal" analog out of the Maverick, and with powered speakers or when using a regular amp, I should use the "Tube pre-out". Is this correct?

 Thanks for taking the time to read this. I am loving my Maverick with my headphones and looking forward to upgrading speakers so I can listen through them as well!


----------



## boomy3555

With Powered speakers you may hook up to the regular or tube RCA pre-outs. The Maverick will give the speakers a "Line Out" level of sound only and the power speakers will amplify that sound.. It is not powerfull enough to run non-powered speakers from the RCA outputs. ( Small desktop speakers may give you minimum sound but these headphone amps are not designed to drive speakers).


----------



## jjsoviet

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With Powered speakers you may hook up to the regular or tube RCA pre-outs. The Maverick will give the speakers a "Line Out" level of sound only and the power speakers will amplify that sound.. It is not powerfull enough to run non-powered speakers from the RCA outputs. ( Small desktop speakers may give you minimum sound but these headphone amps are not designed to drive speakers)._

 

I forgot to mention that the AV30 is a set of powered speakers. So the Tube RCA-out could be used with them?


----------



## GPollos

That would be correct!

 You can hook your powered speakers directly to the TubeMagic to either the tube pre-out (tube flavour) or "normal" (solid state).

 If you have non-powered speakers, you will have to connect the TubeMagic to an amp first as the TubeMagic only has pre-amp capabilities for its RCA outputs.


----------



## DanFromIndy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GPollos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That would be correct!

 You can hook your powered speakers directly to the TubeMagic to either the tube pre-out (tube flavour) or "normal" (solid state).

 If you have non-powered speakers, you will have to connect the TubeMagic to an amp first as the TubeMagic only has pre-amp capabilities for its RCA outputs._

 

Thanks for the help on this! Getting a set of powered monitors was a slam-dunk, then I started looking at how many outlets it was all going to add to my already-overloaded office, and was wondering if I could get by without powered speakers.

 Thanks again!


----------



## jjsoviet

Thanks all for the info! I'm seriously considering this one as my Amp/DAC at home.


----------



## sfrancis

I did it !

 Used a sip socket instead of the DIP one. The soldering is not that hard.

 Inserted a 4.75kohm 1/4W 1% in-line resistor. Now I can listen at 10 -11 o'clock and did not feel such drastic volume change when turning up the volume knob.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did it !

 Used a sip socket instead of the DIP one. The soldering is not that hard.

 Inserted a 4.75kohm 1/4W 1% in-line resistor. Now I can listen at 10 -11 o'clock and did not feel such drastic volume change when turning up the volume knob.




_

 

You used a Sip socket for the resistor?


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You used a Sip socket for the resistor?_

 

It looks similar to this:






 The tail end that goes into PCB is not very long. Hold that piece while soldering is a little tricky but after a few try I manage to get it in.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It looks similar to this:







 The tail end that goes into PCB is not very long. Hold that piece while soldering is a little tricky but after a few try I manage to get it in._

 

I get that much but you are using it for the resistor? If so switching between high and low gain would be very easy.


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I get that much but you are using it for the resistor? If so switching between high and low gain would be very easy._

 

Yes, but this is not my idea. This is originally from bearmann (thanks!) and I saw it from Spanky's FAQ thread (thanks!). If you haven't seen that FAQ you should check it out.

 I hope Ryan can add a gain switch in future generations as even switching resistor is not what you want to do on a daily basis -- for those who own both high impedance and low impedance headphones, e.g.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, but this is not my idea. This is originally from bearmann (thanks!) and I saw it from Spanky's FAQ thread (thanks!). If you haven't seen that FAQ you should check it out.

 I hope Ryan can add a gain switch in future generations as even switching resistor is not what you want to do on a daily basis -- for those who own both high impedance and low impedance headphones, e.g._

 

Making a H/L gain switch is not that difficult, hardest part is cutting a hole in the chassis to fit it.


----------



## igotyofire

Hey guys i need some help.


 Is anyone using the Optical toslink input on the d1?
 i just bought a toslink cable and i have a adapter that came with my xonar dx that im using. and i stick that in my sound card and on the other end i get a red light comming out. I go to plug it into the back of the D1 input and it doesn't appear to fit in there snug or far enough to make a connection Is the input on the d1 a mini toslink or somthing? I have no experience with this type of cable so need some suggestions.


----------



## _Spanky_

Here's the one I bought and use with the D1:
NEW 6 ft Digital Audio Optical Fiber Toslink Cable 6ft - eBay (item 300393614534 end time Feb-07-10 02:36:33 PST)

 I didn't know there was such a thing as mini toslink unless you're talking about a 3.5mm toslink adapter.


----------



## igotyofire

i ordered this one. looks like the one u just posted to me......

6' Optical Dolby Digital TOS-link male to male cable - eBay (item 250572279603 end time Mar-01-10 10:37:13 PST)






 is it suppose to take alot of pressure to plug into the jack?


----------



## boomy3555

Different jacks have different snap in pressure. My Maverick does not seem to
 "Snap in" like the Zero or Compass, but it's not loose either. I just slide it in until the square part is not visible.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Different jacks have different snap in pressure. My Maverick does not seem to
 "Snap in" like the Zero or Compass, but it's not loose either. I just slide it in until the square part is not visible._

 

Hmmm, mine snaps in. My cable has a little ridge on it though. It doesn't snap in on the computer side though.


----------



## ninjikiran

HDMI Cable, Home Theater Accessories, HDMI Products, Cables, Adapters, Video/Audio Switch, Networking, USB, Firewire, Printer Toner, and more!





 3ft Cable or 1.5ft cable, forgot what link I posted.

 Monoprice, best bang for your buck.

 I use the coax-in, as for optical on the D1 I guess it depends on the cable. My optical cables have snapped in, especially to the extent that removing them makes my d1 slide if I don't apply a counter-force to the chassis. If anything I wish the coax-in was more snug than it is.


----------



## Mavwong

I suspect asio4all does not reg the driver by ninjakiran as usb audio cos when I run foolbar with asio4all configure mav audio it doesn't lock it as with default usb audio device, thus other program can still output to maverick. So for xp setup, I am better with default driver in foolbar? And stick with only 48khz max?


----------



## Winebroker2000

My digital music server (RWA-modded Olive Musica) has 75-ohm BNC coax output. What is the optimal way to hook it up to the Mav D1?

 BNC to RCA cable?
 BNC to BNC cable with RCA adapter?
 optical?

 Is the coax RCA input on the Mav D1 75-ohm?


----------



## Nakattack

I pulled on my Toslink and the shielding pulled back, resulting in the fibre optic cable being pulled out as well. Sigh, I hope it works, otherwise it's another $50~ on a better cable.

 EDIT: lol ebay has them for $5 xD


----------



## TheBigCW

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Winebroker2000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My digital music server (RWA-modded Olive Musica) has 75-ohm BNC coax output. What is the optimal way to hook it up to the Mav D1?

 BNC to RCA cable?
 BNC to BNC cable with RCA adapter?
 optical?

 Is the coax RCA input on the Mav D1 75-ohm?_

 

No. But, very, very few DACs actually have true 75 ohm input.

 Whatever method is more convenient for you should work best. They should all sound the same.


----------



## thearrow

Just pulled off some major resistor-replacing! 

 Swapped R70 and R71 with 300ohm resistors.
 Swapped R54 and R55 with 5.7Kohm resistors.
 All swaps with DIP socket brackets!

 Completely removed hum/noise from headphone out with my 64 ohm HD280 Pros!

 Holy ****! It sounds soooooo good!

 I'll post pics when I get access to my camera.


----------



## Guy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hard to say which is a knock off when OEM is quite common.
 Open up the D1 and the PSU has 翔升 on it, thats xiangsheng lol_

 

I am pretty sure XS are still making the "New" D1 just as they built the first one. OEM is common worldwide so it is far from being a knock off. XS are benefiting from the Mav's popularity which is due to better support and better looks.. My silver XS is ugly...but my Playstation One is uglier. Both sound pretty good .


----------



## weibby

ha its funny cause of this statement by grant audio -

 3) Grant Fidelity and Xiangsheng has reached agreement to be the sole distributor of Xiangsheng DAC product in Canada and USA.
 4) Maverick Audio has sold their existing stock DAC back to Xiangsheng and those stock will be re-printed for Grant Fidelity. Maverick Audio will no longer sell the DAC product to North America nor other international market after November.

AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums - View Single Post - Maverick Audio D1 DAC/Pre-amp

 I don't know if this constitutes a reach around.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *weibby* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ha its funny cause of this statement by grant audio -

 3) Grant Fidelity and Xiangsheng has reached agreement to be the sole distributor of Xiangsheng DAC product in Canada and USA.
 4) Maverick Audio has sold their existing stock DAC back to Xiangsheng and those stock will be re-printed for Grant Fidelity. Maverick Audio will no longer sell the DAC product to North America nor other international market after November.

AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums - View Single Post - Maverick Audio D1 DAC/Pre-amp

 I don't know if this constitutes a reach around._

 

Overpriced rofl, I hope we can still get the mavericks. I don't want to pay $100+ for the same thing basically.

 I think this is old though, I don't think the D1 line + is included in this. Only the old version which they stopped making.


----------



## GPollos

Although I know reading back through 88 pages of content may be a pain in the ass, I think this issues has been covered before.

 The mav used to be a XS clone back when it was the "Maverick TubeMagic", not the D1 line ("Maverick TubeMagic D1") as far as I know.

 It may be using the XS power supply, but it's not like there are a million ways to build a transformer, so sourcing it from XS isn't that big of a deal. IMHO.


----------



## boomy3555

These things are too closely mirrored to not all be built by XS. Part outsourcing or not. Let's just let this dead horse lie and let them fight it out over outsourcing and exclusivity. If Mav wasn't undercutting Grant's prices by so much this would not even be an issue.


----------



## GPollos

Never the less, I still love my Mav. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 My first foray into the unknown mid-fi audio world, and it was a good one. XS clone or not.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GPollos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The mav used to be a XS clone back when it was the "Maverick TubeMagic", not the D1 line ("Maverick TubeMagic D1") as far as I know._

 

The first TubeMagic was the A1. It had identical knobs, looks (aside from a black faceplate), and circuitry as the XS. Ryan researched, modified, added features and called it the D1. There's probably 2 reasons behind that; to avoid litigation as well as improve the product. One could argue that it is no longer a clone, but an "improvement".

 In the end, what's it matter? It's not like the Maverick TubeMagic is a terrible knock-off with bad parts and bad support. It works great at a low price and a lot of people are happy with it, including myself.


----------



## elwappo99

I'm sure the Maverick Dac that ryan is selling is using the same XS board and circuitry, and he's adjusting a few things. The reasons were some problems in the older design.

 Grant Fidelity's slogan is "Hi-end, not hi-priced" which is funny. The grant fidelity version of this dac (keep in mind, identical) used to cost something like $450 

 When the dac first showed up, grant fidelity's forum on audiokarma's site had a thread started and few questions got tossed around. Grant fidelity had the mod's delete the posts, and left some kind of blanket statement about being the "only North American Distributor"

 Seems like Grant Fidelity was overcharging by a lot of money, maybe around $150 worth, and they got their market taken.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elwappo99* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm sure the Maverick Dac that ryan is selling is using the same XS board and circuitry, and he's adjusting a few things. The reasons were some problems in the older design._

 

I'm pretty sure the A1 did. But, the D1 is a modified PCB design. It may be the same circuit but, the layout for sure is different.

 A1:





 D1:


----------



## Mysteek

I finally got my D1 after a month long wait due to customs and then my parents had to forward it over to me.

 Initial impressions--even though this was bought from another user and it's supposed to be burned in by now, I feel as though it's very harsh in the treble and the music sounds lifeless and perhaps decent at best. I'm so confused 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Should I pretend it's new and do my own psychological burn in? Haha.


----------



## djnagle

I have really enjoyed my D1, however, I am becoming increasingly frustrated with all the loud ZIPs and ZINGs I get when I switch from one input to another. Also, inbetween movie previews the thing pops and crackles which it does not do when I use the RCA from my DVD/CD player to my amps without the D1 in line. What the heck is going on with the D1. Is anyone else having these issues.

 Also, and this is very minor, the spacing on the names of the different selections for the selector switch is way off from the indicator on the knob and the selection points in the selector switch. So the pointer on the knob might be lined up perfect in the middle position but when in the full top of bottom postion, the indicator is 1/2" past the lable. 

 I know, I know, this is a minor point but you'd think that would have been an obvious design paramiter from the get-go.

 I still really like the D1, I'm just in a bitchy mood this morning.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, inbetween movie previews the thing pops and crackles which it does not do when I use the RCA from my DVD/CD player to my amps without the D1 in line. What the heck is going on with the D1. Is anyone else having these issues._

 

D1 will shut down the digital circuit when there is no signal by using a relay switch. In between movie previews, it seems your audio source completely shut down the digital signal output during the "gap", the pops you heard actually is the D1 re-enable the digital input and the circuit. While most DVD/CD player will have digital signal output always "on", there are some models will shut down it when no audio is in the playback, it looks your player is one of this.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mysteek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ I'm so confused 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Should I pretend it's new and do my own psychological burn in? Haha._

 

Give it some more burn-in time. You never know how long the previous owner really used the unit. And D1 does require some time to get full "burn-in".


----------



## thearrow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *I* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Swapped R70 and R71 with 300ohm resistors.
 Swapped R54 and R55 with 5.7Kohm resistors.
 All swaps with DIP socket brackets!_

 










 I'd definitely suggest this mod to anyone looking to use the mav with low-impedance / high-sensitivity headphones! 

 Sounds perfect!


----------



## djnagle

Thanks Ryan, but can you address the very loud zip and zing I get when swichin from USB and Optical...for example. I get it when I change from any input to another.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_D1 will shut down the digital circuit when there is no signal by using a relay switch. In between movie previews, it seems your audio source completely shut down the digital signal output during the "gap", the pops you heard actually is the D1 re-enable the digital input and the circuit. While most DVD/CD player will have digital signal output always "on", there are some models will shut down it when no audio is in the playback, it looks your player is one of this._

 

This is exactly the reason why I use Optical from my onboard sound for movies instead of my X-Fi. The X-Fi over coax gives a nasty pop when switching movies but the onboard doesn't. The pop doesn't ever happen with WASAPI so I don't get any ill effects using WASAPI on my X-Fi into the D1. The onboard optical may not be bit-perfect but movies are lossy anyway so it doesn't matter to me.


----------



## Kitarist

So is this still worth to buy


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Kitarist* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So is this still worth to buy_

 

Yep, I still love mines 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mysteek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I finally got my D1 after a month long wait due to customs and then my parents had to forward it over to me.

 Initial impressions--even though this was bought from another user and it's supposed to be burned in by now, I feel as though it's very harsh in the treble and the music sounds lifeless and perhaps decent at best. I'm so confused 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Should I pretend it's new and do my own psychological burn in? Haha._

 

I don't know what output you are using but you could try swapping out opamps with something you are more familiar with. If that doesn't improve it, chances are the device isn't for you.

 I don't believe in Burn in for solid state(Makes no logical sense, but psychological burn-in is definitely there. It exist in all devices 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 after limited use. ), can't comment about tube output since I use the headphone output 99% of the time.


----------



## jjsoviet

What would be the best description for the solid-state amp's sound signature? Sharp and aggressive, soft and soothing, clinical and digital?


----------



## sp70

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjsoviet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What would be the best description for the solid-state amp's sound signature? Sharp and aggressive, soft and soothing, clinical and digital?_

 

Sharp and aggressive when its stock. Its the Grado of budget headphone amps. Rolling the OPAMPs tames the shrillness a bit, but it certainly still retains the aggressive sound signature.


----------



## jjsoviet

I see. I guess a Grado or a similar headphone would work on it, huh? What other amps would be more laid-back at the D1's price point? I bet there are not a lot... so I'll think about buying this one.


----------



## Bullettactics

its normal that the D1 heats up during use is it?trying out optical vs usb dont seem to be much of a difference


----------



## elwappo99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bullettactics* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_its normal that the D1 heats up during use is it?trying out optical vs usb dont seem to be much of a difference_

 

How hot you talking? Should be fairly warm, but not in the range of a tube amp of heat I'd say. I felt it was spacious enough to cool off pretty well.


----------



## Integrins

This is probably a very stupid question, but can you use the headphone amp part if you remove the tube? Heck, is it safe to power up without the tube??

 Regards


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjsoviet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I see. I guess a Grado or a similar headphone would work on it, huh? What other amps would be more laid-back at the D1's price point? I bet there are not a lot... so I'll think about buying this one. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

The Compass is more laid back to me but a bit above this price range. To get any more laid back I would have suggested the HeadDirect EF2 but you LD is just as good and the EF2 DAC is not good enough to buy over the LD with a seperate DAC.
 I'm still just audtioning a HeadPhonia DAC cable (59.00 shipped)at the moment but so far I'm liking it better than the onboard DAC of the EF2,Mav, or Zero. The Compass DAC is running neck and neck and the new Audio GD "fun" (updated Compass) has a Woflson DAC upgrade availl.
 ( not that you didn't allready have too many choices)


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Ryan, but can you address the very loud zip and zing I get when swichin from USB and Optical...for example. I get it when I change from any input to another._

 

D1 uses pure hardware switch in the audio signal selection circuit. The noise you heard, is from the DAC chip itself. Unfortunately there is no way to "mute" this kind sound unless you use software control chip to do the switch.
 Yes I know it is a bit annoying if you constantly switch between different audio sources. It is a small design "compromise" when we design this DAC.


----------



## JustVisit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Integrins* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is probably a very stupid question, but can you use the headphone amp part if you remove the tube? Heck, is it safe to power up without the tube??_

 

Yes you can do that. By removing the tube, the only thing it will affect is the tube pre out. It is completely safe to do so.


----------



## jjsoviet

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The Compass is more laid back to me but a bit above this price range. To get any more laid back I would have suggested the HeadDirect EF2 but you LD is just as good and the EF2 DAC is not good enough to buy over the LD with a seperate DAC.
 I'm still just audtioning a HeadPhonia DAC cable (59.00 shipped)at the moment but so far I'm liking it better than the onboard DAC of the EF2,Mav, or Zero. The Compass DAC is running neck and neck and the new Audio GD "fun" (updated Compass) has a Woflson DAC upgrade availl.
 ( not that you didn't allready have too many choices)_

 

You mean this cable?

Headphonia.com - USB DAC Cable with 3.5mm Mini Plug 75cm (30'')

 Is the difference between the Mav and this one like night and day or just a subtle improvement? Since the Mav is a DAC/Amp combo, is it not better to get this instead of buying a separate DAC and amp? Or am I wrong?

 Lol, I ask too much, sorry.


----------



## boomy3555

Yes, That's it.

 It's about 15-20% richer and smoother ( Gawhd, I sound like a coffee comercial). I would not get any of them ( Mav,Zero, Compass) for thier DACs. Most of the amps in this range, including the EF2 as well, use minimal DAC's and more impressive external DACs can be had for as little as the 59.00 above Cable. The only advantage to me with the Maverick, and Zero, are thier source switching capabilities, Something lost with most Headphone Amps.


----------



## jjsoviet

I see. Well, I have to decide whether to get the Mav (I like the source switching and multiple RCA-outs) or get the USB DAC and a decent tube amp (which I have yet to research on the best for about $150)

 EDIT: I think I'm going for the Mav. I really have a tight budget, and it seems to fit my needs.


----------



## _Spanky_

I had a bit of time and some plexiglass left over from another project so I made a new cover for the D1:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...i/DSC05666.JPG

 Not too bad for a demel and some sandpaper imo.


----------



## GPollos

Ok, dumb question for sure however..

 I popped my mav open to have a look inside, and I found a second serial number label loose inside. I noticed Spanky has one affixed to the back right corner of the inside of his.

 Would you happen to have one on the bottom of the exterior as well?

 I'm just curious, otherwise, I have a souvenir. I'm not doing anything productive except for listening to music, and I found the label on my desk. 

 GPollos: Proud owner of 2010 D1 Unit 63 and 79(Apparently)


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *GPollos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Would you happen to have one on the bottom of the exterior as well?_

 

Yup, 2 stickers. My inside one doesn't like to stick on completely. Every time I opened the case it was half hanging on.


----------



## GPollos

All I wanted to know, to satisfy my curiosity at 11:30 at night.

 Thanks, off to dreaming.


----------



## jjsoviet

Should I get a Mav... or save up for a separate DAC and amp? can't decide right now...


----------



## _Spanky_

jjsoviet. It's really your choice. Does the Mav do what you want? Are there other devices that do it better with either a lower price or better parts for the same price? To be honest, the Mav for me was a impulse buy. I wanted to buy the Zero but saw this and went for it. I probably could have looked around more and gotten a specific DAC for my needs and amp that might perform a bit better but I am thoroughly happy with the Mav. There's 1 or 2 minor gripes about it but nothing in terms of quality or value. I've said it before but I like the upgradeability factor of it. You can get a better DAC or a tube amp and still use this. It's an incredible entry unit that sounds good out of the box but also has potential. Yea, all that I've said is biased because this is my first external DAC and real amp that I've owned.


----------



## MartinV56

I have 3 dacs 
 1) Valab NOS
 2) XS D1 tube buffer
 3) Zhaoulu 2.5 with LM4562 and others modified

 IMHO XS or Maverick are very good dac, the tube buffer is excellent with 2c52 I use WE 396. I use as only dac with cd transport. For the price the Maverick is a winner. My Diy amps are Set: 2A3,300B,71A and 45.


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had a bit of time and some plexiglass left over from another project so I made a new cover for the D1:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/websi...i/DSC05666.JPG

 Not too bad for a demel and some sandpaper imo._

 

Looks good Spanky. Get some Weldwood 3 (I think that is the name) and make sides as well. Although I like the vented sides.

 Here is a link to another site on how to make your own TT covers. Same thing, just smaller.


Make Your Own Acrylic Cover - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums


----------



## ninjikiran

As they say though, heat rises. I wouldn't mind replacing the top case with plexiglass that is only screwed in on the top. I like black plexi though, that stuff is sexy. Would be even more awesome if someone made a very thin layer to do something like this.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/A...PS3TEstick.jpg

 Add your own artwork to it and stuff.


----------



## _Spanky_

I did some heat tests consisting of a lighter and a scrap piece of plexiglass and mine didn't really do much except start bubbling when I got really close. I've left the Maverick on all day with the piece I have on and there's no discoloration or bubbling although it is quite warmer than the metal was.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did some heat tests consisting of a lighter and a scrap piece of plexiglass and mine didn't really do much except start bubbling when I got really close. I've left the Maverick on all day with the piece I have on and there's no discoloration or bubbling although it is quite warmer than the metal was._

 

Mainly because theres no vents but now that you have the sides open you can use a cheap PC fan to blow the hot air(lool I typoed it as Hot Hair) our the side. One of those quiet low RPM fans, don't need anything fancy.


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea I was thinking about a fan. I was going to ask Ryan where there might be a 5v or 7v wire coming from the power supply that I could just solder on to but I don't know that I want the additional dust.

 Also, I ran the unit a while, pulled the cover off and turned it off then within 2 seconds touched the heatsink I have on the LT1364 and it's barely warm. I'm thinking the heat I felt was probably radiated from the tube and captured by the tower of aluminum I have on the opamp. I would say that there's no worries about heat generated by the LT1364, at least in the DAC section.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yea I was thinking about a fan. I was going to ask Ryan where there might be a 5v or 7v wire coming from the power supply that I could just solder on to but I don't know that I want the additional dust.

 Also, I ran the unit a while, pulled the cover off and turned it off then within 2 seconds touched the heatsink I have on the LT1364 and it's barely warm. I'm thinking the heat I felt was probably radiated from the tube and captured by the tower of aluminum I have on the opamp. I would say that there's no worries about heat generated by the LT1364, at least in the DAC section._

 

Well imo, best option would be to build sides to cover it up completely, and carve a hole in the top and use an exhaust fan to keep the tubes heat out. Would also keep more dust out than the stock vented setup. Not that its necessary but would be a "fun" mod. Could pretty it up like we do with computer case mods.

 Though like the heatsink, the fan would be overkill for sure. It is just more for fun, silliness and absolute fanaticalism. 

 Another option would be to cover the entire side with the fan with air conditioner filters(fan included). That is what I have on my computer case fans(they are HUGE) and the inside of my case doesn't have huge dust bunnies and its been over a year.

 Worst case scenario you can steal a few loose connections from your computer's power supply and use some extension cables and an empty expansion slot.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well imo, best option would be to build sides to cover it up completely, and carve a hole in the top and use an exhaust fan to keep the tubes heat out. Would also keep more dust out than the stock vented setup. Not that its necessary but would be a "fun" mod. Could pretty it up like we do with computer case mods.

 Though like the heatsink, the fan would be overkill for sure. It is just more for fun, silliness and absolute fanaticalism. 

 Another option would be to cover the entire side with the fan with air conditioner filters(fan included). That is what I have on my computer case fans(they are HUGE) and the inside of my case doesn't have huge dust bunnies and its been over a year.

 Worst case scenario you can steal a few loose connections from your computer's power supply and use some extension cables and an empty expansion slot._

 

You're giving me ideas. I'd probably build permanent sides that I would stick in with foam tape and let pressure hold them in place. I like the fan over the tube idea, blowing out. I would want to get a grill for it so I don't tempt myself with sharp spinning blades. Looking at the power supply inside the Mav, there's a 80v, 6.3v, 12.5v and 2 15v lines. I'll bet I could tap into the 6.3v line and run a regular 12v fan pretty quietly.

 I don't think the fan is too overkill, tubes get warm and most tubes I see are sticking out of a case. This one lays next to the DAC opamp and a big capacitor, keeping the heat away from those components would be key.

 However, my weakpoint comes in. I'm ok at making straight cuts in plexiglass, a rounded hole in the middle doesn't sound too fun. But, if/when I get HDAM units, I will have to cut holes in the plexiglass for them to fit.

 On top of this I still want to make an order for parts to do the resistor mod which I'm kinda waiting for cuz I want to buy some KSC75 headphones for my laptop and I'll want to make a small resistor mini extension cable that will offer an additional 80ohm of resistance to any heaphone I want.

 If only I had some extra $$ and a little more time...


----------



## djnagle

I really don't think there is any way for Plexi to get hot enough to distort it even sitting 1/4" way from the tube.

 Here is a link to my last plexi project. The stuff is tough as nails.....or in this case bullets.


My new uber power strip project with pics - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums


 .


----------



## djnagle

It is late and I really want to order the OpAmps and tubes, so instead of looking through 90 pages, can someone tell me where to source the OpAmps and the Raythion tube? I looked at eBay but don't really trust it so much. Thanks.


----------



## _Spanky_

djnagle, that's pretty cool. I see you have the same sidecutters as me. I absolutely love those lol.

 For opamps, I got mine as test samples 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Try google.com/products It should help you find what you need.


----------



## igotyofire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djnagle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is late and I really want to order the OpAmps and tubes, so instead of looking through 90 pages, can someone tell me where to source the OpAmps and the Raythion tube? I looked at eBay but don't really trust it so much. Thanks._

 

lol im just about to order mine, i think index numbers 2 and 3 in the picture below are the popular options, im throwing in 1 to see how that sounds as well, heh digi-key has served me well with 3 previous orders in the past and good shipping times.

 I think 2 is used primarily in the headphone amp chip socket and 3 in the dac socket, could be reversed but i know that is the popular combo if you want to search it out later


----------



## _Spanky_

I was gonna say Digikey but I wasn't sure 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 +1 for a fellow Chrome user


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## jjsoviet

I used my money to get a tube amp instead... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I really really want to get the Maverick, but that offer was too good to pass (LD MKIII.) Fret not, I will buy this in a year or two when i get the money.


----------



## djnagle

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjsoviet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I used my money to get a tube amp instead... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I really really want to get the Maverick, but that offer was too good to pass (LD MKIII.) Fret not, I will buy this in a year or two when i get the money. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Can't blame you. I good tube amp for a great price is hard to pass up. I have seen, in just the short time that I've had my D1, how fast Ryan implements changes so waiting a year or even a couple months might be a good thing. 

 You will not be disappointed.


----------



## jjsoviet

Yeah, maybe it's actually a good thing for me to wait out a year or two while the Maverick improves in each version.


----------



## ajuztam

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jjsoviet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah, maybe it's actually a good thing for me to wait out a year or two while the Maverick improves in each version. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 you could wait five or ten years or else never get it. if im in need of something or i want it i just go and buy it. 
 soon i will post a pics of my modified d1. its still burning in but it sounds so much better compering to stock already that every time i put my k702 on my head a smile appears on my face. invested over 100$ so far in tube, opamps, capacitors ond diodes and loads of time.


----------



## jjsoviet

Lol, of course I would get the best current version if I already have the money. If I would have to wait for the best incarnation, then it would take years.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ajuztam* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you could wait five or ten years or else never get it. if im in need of something or i want it i just go and buy it. 
 soon i will post a pics of my modified d1. its still burning in but it sounds so much better compering to stock already that every time i put my k702 on my head a smile appears on my face. invested over 100$ so far in tube, opamps, capacitors ond diodes and loads of time._

 

When you post pics could you also post what you did? i.e. what cap in what spot? I don't know schematics or what a output cap would be but I understand, for example, replace C55 w/ 220uF 25v xxxxxx brand/model. Simple instructions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll also put it in my condensed thread. Thanks.


----------



## RainDelay

Can anyone comment on how the version with the NOS GE 5670W tube sounds in comparison to the stock tube? Is it worth the extra $20?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[size=medium]*Tube Rolling*:[/size] (Make/Model - Result)
 NOS GE 5670W --------------------- Softer and relaxed, good for Grado headphones.
 Raytheon 5670 Windmill Getter ------ By far better female vocals, silky smooth, and great bass detail.
 Western 396A ---------------------- Great mids, greater frequency extension, darker background, less shrill.

 6922/6DJ8 tube doesn't work with D1_

 

If you use the tube pre-amp RCA outputs, it's worth it.


----------



## Dr Def

Hi all,

 I'm a total beginner with the more involved side of hi-fi, so please be gentle...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Firstly a big thanks to Spanky and everyone else for the detailed discussion on the Maverick...I've recently decided to splash out on a dedicated DAC - basically, I bought the new Peter Gabriel album on CD, listened to it and wasn't overwhelmed...but it came with a code for the 24-bit recording and it really opened up (even did a blind test, though my housemates probably think I'm mad now)...so I kind of figured that it can make that much difference on a system with basic functionality, I might see another leap forward if I invest. 

 I was tossing up between the V-DAC, the AUNE, and the Maverick...obviously comparing apples and pears as they're all pretty different in terms of functionality etc, but I'd love to have a bit of tube equipment (love the analogue sound), and I'm essentially going to use this for PC media, and then possibly a CD player or SACD if I upgrade later. So I'm pretty set on the Maverick (although I live in the UK, hopefully won't get stung too badly on customs, I will email Ryan and ask of his experience with UK customers)

 My main learning curve has been on the bit-perfect/matching concept. I have onboard sound with a Realtek 885; seems this might actually be quite useful, as you can select the samplerate, although it's fixed once you set it, so to get bit-perfect you have to change it if you're listening to a 44.1 then a 48 in the same sitting. I've also installed foobar and ASIO4ALL , and have kernal streaming via a program called ReClock. If/when I get the Maverick, I'd be connecting the PC via a Coaxial S/PDIF.

 a) is selecting kernal streaming via ReClock redundant if using ASIO4ALL? Is one method better than other?

 b) Can I confirm I have my thinking right: In my case, where the Realtek manager sets the Sample rate, ASIO4All won't bypass that and just output at the file's native sampling rate; it will just bypass the windows mixer and resampling. so the signal would go Foobar-> Realtek control -> out the SPDIF

 c) I had a bit of an idea - could you connect both the USB and the SPDIF of the PC to the Mav, and select the SPDIF on the unit when playing 24/96 files, and the USB when 16/44.1? As the USB is recognised as a device seperately from the soundcard, so seperate from the S/PDIF...but then I suppose in Foobar, for the 24/96 files, you're forcing 24-bit depth, so you'd be sending 24/44.1 out to the DAC. But that might be preferable to resampling 44.1->96 before the DAC at least? Or you could have a seperate media player for your 16/44.1 I suppose. I guess what I'm getting at, is that I expect it's prefferable to have the minimum amount of adulteration to the signal before it gets to the Maverick - so the least amount of resampling - but also without the slight hastle of having to click a load of different settings to get bit-perfect for a range of different files (I am probably just wanting far too much for the price...but I am going to buy it anyway, just trying to consider how to get the most out of it!)

 d) Just to check aswel, a bit of hardware or algorithm set at say 24/96 won't put a signal already at 24/96 through a process anyway? Probably a really silly question, just wondering in terms of my Realtek control forcing a sample rate, making sure that it will just let a signal already at that sample rate pass through (a basic analogy would be say take a number , +4 then -4...except if the process isn't actually perfect, it might be like +4.000001 then - 4.000002...if you catch what I mean...).

 Cheers for any help, I appreciate it's a horrendously long post, just wondering on thoughts if anyone has the time!


----------



## _Spanky_

Dr Def, my first though is "huh?". I don't think I can answer much of your stuff but rather give you some random bits of info.

 You said "but I'd love to have a bit of tube equipment". Keep in mind, the tube is only used for the pre-amp outputs, not the headphone output.

 Bit-perfect? I'm not gonna touch that. I'd love to help you but with soooo many different audio chips and setups, it's hard to figure out. I will say though, the D1 will give a click whenever the sample rates change. If, in Foobar, you switch from a 44.1kHz song to one with a 96kHz sample rate and you hear a click from the D1, congrats you have bit-perfect audio, or at least an un-altered sample rate.

 You can use all the inputs you want to but you can only listen to 1 at a time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Foobar only outputs to 1 (that I know of) and the D1 only selects 1. If you want to switch from S/PDIF from your onboard sound to using the USB you will need to switch the Source knob on the D1 as well as switching the output in Foobar.

 Hope this helps even if it's just a little bit.


----------



## Mavwong

alright guys and girls. After rolling in opamp LT1364 and LM4562, I found that my right channel gone. So I do a little check up and found a broken wire. I can't find any of these info here, thus I'm on my own with a set of cheapo multimeter trying to figure out what's all the wiring in the D1. First let's see the internal.






 Few things interest me here. But first I would like to stress that some of these info are not verified and any mod you try using the above info will be at your own risk, I will not be held of any responsibility if you damage ur D1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also bear in mind that soldering work will void your D1 warranty.

 1) As you can see from the internal shot, a very thin (looks cheap) set of wire was use for DAC output to the vol pot/input sel before going anywhere else. One of my wire break of from the connector after rolling opamps, it sure does easily break off. What I did for temp measure, is use "analog in (to tube)" yellow color wire to replace it. And I immediately notice improvement in the SQ, more separation, dynamic and airiness in the highs. (try with LF353 in the DAC, LM4562 in the hp amp). If you don't use the SS or tube out, you can try this. 
 On the other hand, if you use only the tube out (as Tube DAC output to external preamp), just unplug the yellow hp out wire jack(lower left) and plug directly to DAC out and you get similar by pass effect but better signal path (I haven't verify this)

 2) Having found that the DAC out wire is not as good as the yellow one, may be Ryan should try to replace that with yellow color wire. I personally plan to get some mundrof wire to replace this. Also you can replace the stock wiring from the hp amp out to hp jack with better cable.

 3) I was still wondering why D1 design do not feed tube out to the internal hp amp for better SQ? I try Windmill-Getter Raytheon output to pico amp, it sound so open and mid is lush even before proper break in of the tube. I was wondering could I solder some wire and feed the signal from the tube out jack and plug into the hp amp in jack (jack is the same as PC fan jack, should be easy to find)?

 4) Back to Opamp rolling. These are just my observation. The 2 stock LF353 doesn't sound similar to my ear for sure. Initially I only roll the HP amp 353 to LM4562. AB the 2 LF353 in the DAC, one sound more dynamic and the other sound veil. I like the more dynamic one, which compliment well with layback/dark sound of LM4562. Later I roll out the DAC 353 with LT1364, and found out LT has better separation, more mid bass, more define bass. But it not as airy as 353. Likely due to LT haven't break in. The LT1364 sure is hot, I can't place my finger in it for more than a second.

 5) last, wish to seek advice from some expert here, I plan to mod the caps to mundrof as well. Care to share some suggestion of what to replace other than the hp output caps at C61/C62?


----------



## Dr Def

Hey Spanky,

 Thanks for the quick reply - and the tip for listening out for the click is really helpful actually, if just to satisfy my curiosity even if I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference in a blind test!

 Thanks to your very helpful guide I was aware the tube only pre-amps to the specified RCA outputs on the back - I must admit to probably being a bit of an intruder here, in that I'm less focused on using the unit for headphones, more for a direct output to the amp; though will possibly invest in a decent set of headphones too, maybe paycheck after the one I buy the Mav with! I just tend to be happier with a tube/hybrid sound - I have a tube guitar amp, and my favourite is actually a hybrid, so I think a slightly tube-coloured sound is preferable to my ears.

 Yeah I get that you'd need to physically switch to change from USB to S/PDIF - I was just throwing out the ideas for if you happen to have a mix of different file types - but really, chances are you'll only listen to one type in one particular sitting. Just I have a mix of FLAC in 16 or 24 / 44.1 or 96 recordings. But you'd still have to keep an eye on what's playing and flip it over, aswel as have two seperate media players if you're forcing 24bit in Foobar ; you'd have to line up the 16bit recordings in a different MP that's not forcing 24bit. So pretty much a useless idea really, was more an 'in theory' kind of thing. *Edit* And I re-read and see the other problem, in that you'd have to change foobar's output between SPDIF and USB, so would be properly useless to bother plugging in both even if intending to click over inputs...might aswel just stick to listening to one type at a time and taking the time to alter a couple of settings between file types, or being OK with resampling of some files...

 I suppose really what I'm getting at, is that if you follow the same method described to get bit-perfect 24/96 output, can you not use the same method to have bit perfect 16/44.1? So you would force 16bit in Foobar and set the resampling at 44.1? It would mean swapping setttings each time for different file types, but it is achievable? I just got a bit confused when the tutorial said you can get 24/96 bit perfect but not 16/44.1 - I guess that just means, with that particular setup where you force 24/96 , it will then resample anything else so won't quite be bit-perfect...


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dr Def* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I suppose really what I'm getting at, is that if you follow the same method described to get bit-perfect 24/96 output, can you not use the same method to have bit perfect 16/44.1? So you would force 16bit in Foobar and set the resampling at 44.1? It would mean swapping setttings each time for different file types, but it is achievable? I just got a bit confused when the tutorial said you can get 24/96 bit perfect but not 16/44.1 - I guess that just means, with that particular setup where you force 24/96 , it will then resample anything else so won't quite be bit-perfect..._

 

No problem 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Yea, you should be able to. Once these clever people on the forum figured out how to get 24/96, that pretty much means that anything else is open. You'll have to do a bit of testing with your setup to find it the way you want.


----------



## Dr Def

Excellent, thanks Spanky!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yes it's definitely been a great help in working out how I'd go about getting the best out of the unit - pretty much sold me on my choice actually, having the load of background reading to inform my decision. Can't wait to get paid and order one now..!


----------



## fiver

So my Maverick has been here about a week now. I am very happy with it. Not much I can say that hasn't been covered in the past 92 pages.

 I have a WE396A coming in the mail any day and I am also going to try the LT1364/DAC LM4562/AMP combo. I actually don't use the headphone out on the D1, I send the tube out into a Headroom Micro Amp. Mostly because I already had it and to me it sounds just a hair bit better. But I'm still going to play with the headphone stage because it's fun!

 Anyway, I am curios if anyone has tried LM4562 in the DAC and OPA627 in the AMP? I didn't see this combo in the thread. This seems like it might be worth a try, as I know that the 4652 is often a popular choice for DAC's in general and the 627 also has quite a following in amplification applications. I haven't ordered up a 627 yet and was just wondering if anyone had any comments.


----------



## Dr Def

Further to the bit-perfect transport question : I've also read that a 16bit -> 24bit conversion just tags 8 zeros onto the digital information, rather than doing anything which could be lossy or interfere with the sound...so if you want to swap between playing 16/44.1 and 24/96 at bit-perfect, you'd only really need to set the sample rate? I suppose technically it's not bit-perfect as you'll be playing a file which is natively 16/44.1 but if you read the output of the S/PDIF it would say 24/44.1 , but it sounds like it would just be an academic thing rather than anything percievable...just a bit like delivering a small box in a larger box...or is this debatable as to whether the 'adding 8 zeros' affects the quality or not depending on what product does it?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dr Def* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Further to the bit-perfect transport question : I've also read that a 16bit -> 24bit conversion just tags 8 zeros onto the digital information, rather than doing anything which could be lossy or interfere with the sound...so if you want to swap between playing 16/44.1 and 24/96 at bit-perfect, you'd only really need to set the sample rate? I suppose technically it's not bit-perfect as you'll be playing a file which is natively 16/44.1 but if you read the output of the S/PDIF it would say 24/44.1 , but it sounds like it would just be an academic thing rather than anything percievable...just a bit like delivering a small box in a larger box...or is this debatable as to whether the 'adding 8 zeros' affects the quality or not depending on what product does it?_

 

Going from 16-bit to 24-bit is lossless
 Going from 24-bit to 16-bit is lossy 

 Since in binary terms 0's mean nothing. Though converting a 16-bit song to 24-bit in an application like foobar is supposed to make using volume control less damaging. But you shouldn't be using any application to modify output volume anyway so this point is moot.

 Setting your audio program to 24-bit won't result in anything worst, and any 24-bit files you have will not be downgraded. Though most of us don't even have 24-bit audio.

 I am oversimplifying things, and some people could explain it in excruciating detail but this simple explanation should suffice.


----------



## Dr Def

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Going from 16-bit to 24-bit is lossless
 Going from 24-bit to 16-bit is lossy... I am oversimplifying things, and some people could explain it in excruciating detail but this simple explanation should suffice._

 

No no, thanks for the simple explanation, saves on the headaches 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That's what I thought I understood from the 16 -> 24 / 24 -> 16 conversion. Makes it a bit easier for me to set up S/PDIF output to the Maverick; I'll just set Foobar to 24bit , and the Realtek885 onboard lets me select the sample-rate, so as long as I set the ASIO I should get a nice un-altered output if I select the right sample-rate. 

 I have a few vinyl rips in 24/96 (downloaded, but I do already own the recordings on vinyl and CD!) so would be nice to have them output as untouched as possible. Also have the new Peter Gabriel album in 24bit from a download code that came with the CD.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dr Def* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No no, thanks for the simple explanation, saves on the headaches 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That's what I thought I understood from the 16 -> 24 / 24 -> 16 conversion. Makes it a bit easier for me to set up S/PDIF output to the Maverick; I'll just set Foobar to 24bit , and the Realtek885 onboard lets me select the sample-rate, so as long as I set the ASIO I should get a nice un-altered output if I select the right sample-rate. 

 I have a few vinyl rips in 24/96 (downloaded, but I do already own the recordings on vinyl and CD!) so would be nice to have them output as untouched as possible. Also have the new Peter Gabriel album in 24bit from a download code that came with the CD._

 

Chaintech AV70? I think is supposed to allow Bit-Matched playback.

 My Auzentech Prelude 7.1 offers bit-matched playback through spdif meaning you can use WASAPI in your audio player and the master sample rate will change to the sample rate of the song so everything you listen to will be untouched.


----------



## igotyofire

Just rolled to a raytheon tube. I dont remember what the chinese tube really sounded like as i used to prefer the solid state out with my bravo tube amp, but now i prefer the tube out. the raytheon 5670 tube seemed to make a much more appealing sound over the stock chinese tube which i think lacked a sound which one might consider analytical. I Think it was a warmer sound with some clarity missing before, but take this with a grain of salt.


----------



## ihrm

Has anyone here from Canada ordered one of these? Just wondered what kind of shipping fees you paid other than the $20 shipping. From a quick google I've found that DHL isnt too bad with the brokerage fees and such but I just want to make sure.


----------



## ihrm

Also, I can't find much in the way of specs on the website. Anyone wanna fill me in?


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ihrm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone here from Canada ordered one of these? Just wondered what kind of shipping fees you paid other than the $20 shipping. From a quick google I've found that DHL isnt too bad with the brokerage fees and such but I just want to make sure._

 

Don't recall any extra charge. I don't think I even paid any tax as Ryan put a low value in custom declare form.


----------



## ihrm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sfrancis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Don't recall any extra charge. I don't think I even paid any tax as Ryan put a low value in custom declare form._

 

Oh thats fantastic! I was gonna see if he could do that for me, but thats great that he does it anyway.


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea he put gift or something for mine. I didn't have to pay anything but I'm in the U.S.

 For specs, see my sig.


----------



## ihrm

Thanks Spanky! Great right up by the way
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does anyone have any experience with the e-mu 0404? How does it stack up against the Maverick? I'm more or less wondering about the dac here though. I looked at those charts in spanky's post but tech specs don't really mean much.... Thanks!


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ihrm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Spanky! Great right up by the way
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Does anyone have any experience with the e-mu 0404? How does it stack up against the Maverick? I'm more or less wondering about the dac here though. I looked at those charts in spanky's post but tech specs don't really mean much.... Thanks!_

 

Can't tell you about the SQ as I have never heard the e-mu 0404 USB(or PCI). But from a technology standpoint based on what I see online

 E-MU 404
 -Better driver support(possible native ASIO which imo if you use vista is moot since WASAPI is better for music, but for instruments and audio creation that is a different story).
 -Audio creation and recording features. 
 -Purely a pre-amp/DAC far as I can see

 Mav 
 -Swappable Opamps/Tube
 -Headphone amp built in(though you can always output to a stand alone amp)
 -Tube output for colored experience

 Still couldn't tell you about the more subject SQ comparison which is more important but that SQ would also be dependent on the amp matched with the E-MU404.

 Still I enjoy my Mav and I don't think you would regret purchasing it. My typing is a little floaty atm, low blood sugar and hunger levels are up.


----------



## ihrm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ninjikiran* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can't tell you about the SQ as I have never heard the e-mu 0404 USB(or PCI). But from a technology standpoint based on what I see online

 E-MU 404
 -Better driver support(possible native ASIO which imo if you use vista is moot since WASAPI is better for music, but for instruments and audio creation that is a different story).
 -Audio creation and recording features. 
 -Purely a pre-amp/DAC far as I can see

 Mav 
 -Swappable Opamps/Tube
 -Headphone amp built in(though you can always output to a stand alone amp)
 -Tube output for colored experience

 Still couldn't tell you about the more subject SQ comparison which is more important but that SQ would also be dependent on the amp matched with the E-MU404.

 Still I enjoy my Mav and I don't think you would regret purchasing it. My typing is a little floaty atm, low blood sugar and hunger levels are up._

 

Hmmm, from what I've heard the e-mu is a bitch to get drivers working. I think I am gonna go with the maverick. I'm super cheap and some how get into all the expensive hobbies and the maverick seems like the best bang for your buck so it looks like my machine xD


----------



## numbskull

Anyone here with AKG 70X using the Maverick headphone out? It gives the power AKG needs?


----------



## Integrins

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *numbskull* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone here with AKG 70X using the Maverick headphone out? It gives the power AKG needs?_

 

Yes, it works perfectly. My k702s are my first full-size headphones, so I can't compare to other models. I haven't experienced any gain problems, I never have the knob beyond 12 o'clock. 

 It's a bit funny that the headphones are a bit more bassy when I connect them directly to my laptop (Dell E6400) - I am NOT saying that this is in any way better than the sound of the D1. 

 I swapped the opamps as soon as I got my unit and I have taken the tube out to save electricity (insert environmentalist smiley here).


----------



## acvtre

Hi, I think I'll buy a maverick but I'm still not sure. If I'll buy it, I think I'll buy also an OPA627 and a LM4562, as suggested in this forum. I'm not sure because there is so much stuff in it, I mean, is really everything good? I would use every component of this dac/amp, from the headphone amp to the valve preamp. 
 Has anyone compared it with a Zero dac?


----------



## _Spanky_

There have been a few people that like the Maverick D1 over the Zero. Personally, I haven't used the Zero but I can say that in this thread there hasn't been any reports of bad build quality (like the Zero's thin PCB). Also the Maverick has the added tube and fantastic support. Sure it costs more but I think it's well worth it.


----------



## acvtre

And in comparison with the xiang sheng dac 01? I've read that the original one is the xiang sheng.


----------



## _Spanky_

It looks like it has the same components. The differences are in layout and features. Ryan had added USB but I think since then the XS model has had that added too. I don't think anyone has commented on sound differences between the two. I think that the larger differences would be price and customer support. It's really hard to beat Ryan's support especially in a chinese-made unit.


----------



## Dr Def

Put in an order for mine a couple days ago...in the UK so will report my experiences when it arrives...seems like a great guy to deal with though.


----------



## elwappo99

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It looks like it has the same components. The differences are in layout and features. Ryan had added USB but I think since then the XS model has had that added too. I don't think anyone has commented on sound differences between the two. I think that the larger differences would be price and customer support. It's really hard to beat Ryan's support especially in a chinese-made unit._

 

The Maverick DAC is the Xiang Sheng DAC identically in terms of sound quality. Ryan took it originally and resold it. Then he began to modify it, to add the line in, on the faceplate, and a few other changes, but there will be no sound quality difference.


----------



## Mambosenior

I've lived with the D1 for about three weeks and still maintain that it's a screaming bargain! Better yet, with the M2tech feeding it from my Mac (I prefer Coax to either USB or Toslink).

 I had had initial reservations about using it also as a tube preamp because of what I perceived to be bad synergy with a Threshold 400A amp, driving KEF monitor speakers—seemed that it didn't have enough gain. Well, that has been put to rest with added burn-in and a change to a WE tube. The imaging is wonderful and the sound has gotten fuller and warmer (using original OpAmp). With headphones, it's an eminently worthy partner to my DV 3322 (prefer the DV to the D1 for headphone output) and HD-800. An also very fine-sounding Paradisea 3 (WE tube) has gotten very little attention, so little that I am pondering selling it. The D1 has a larger soundstage (very importatnt to me) than the Paradisea, and doesn't take a back seat to it in SQ.

 Sinophobes (none here on my couch) needn't worry with this product or manufacturer.


----------



## roker

what's the slight chance that someone here has had this and the Matrix mini?


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mambosenior* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... With headphones, it's an eminently worthy partner to my DV 3322 (prefer the DV to the D1 for headphone output) and HD-800. An also very fine-sounding Paradisea 3 (WE tube) has gotten very little attention, so little that I am pondering selling it. The D1 has a larger soundstage (very importatnt to me) than the Paradisea, and doesn't take a back seat to it in SQ.

 Sinophobes (none here on my couch) needn't worry with this product or manufacturer._

 

Mambosenior: thanks for sharing your experience. Currently I used D1 exclusively with my HD650. Wonder what might differ had I add a tube amp (e.g. LD MKIII) between D1 and HD650. It appears that you used D1 as DAC and DV3322 as headphone amp. With respect to connection, do you connect DV3322 with the normal preamp out (opamp) or the tube output ? How different the headphone output of D1 comparing to amped through DV3322 ?

 Thanks


----------



## Mambosenior

sfrancis,

 I have connected to the DV from both the outputs of the D1. At the moment, using the tubed. However, the SS has many good qualities (maybe a little bit more resolution of details). About a week ago I could swear that I enjoyed the SS more than the tube. So, you see, good for me to have both options as my listening moods and expectations do fluctuate.

 I prefer the headphone amplification much more from the DV than from the D1 (sounds fuller and has better imaging). However, please note that I now own only the HD-800. Persons with other ’phones may find the D1's SS headphone out preferable to the tubed. When I connect using the D1 as a preamp, I use the tubed output.

 I owned the HD-650 when I first bought the DV 3322 and found that this amp-headphone combination sounded spectacular. I never owned or have auditioned any of the LD amps, although I've read many positive notices about the company.


----------



## sfrancis

Thanks, Mambosenior. That brings me one step closer to a tube amp.


----------



## bastogne

i know there is at least one person who's owned both (matrix mini-hi and d1) here. hopefully they surface and give us a little more information, because i'm curious to.


----------



## uelover

hey i wonder if anyone has a first hand experience about the performance of WE396A tube on mav d1?

 i'm using the stock tube-amp with OPA627 and i liked the harmony between a forward sounding op-amp and a laid-back tube.

 i'm tried raytheon tube also but it is too harsh to my liking. Am thinking of an upgrade to WE396A but i don't really understand the 'darker background' description of the sound of WE396A. Is it also the similar laid-back sound?


----------



## Mavwong

I currently using JW WE396A, previously using Windmill getter Raytheon.

 Raytheon to me is smooth, airy high, but lack weight in mid/mid bass and bass extension. (take note I have a heavily mod D1, with LM4562 in both stage and tube out is feed to the hp amp of d1, driving apsv3 cabled HD600)

 WE 396a, has better weight in all spectrum plus better headstage and separation. Only thing I am not happy is it doesn't sound as airy/high extension (may be this is what pp refer to has dark), but I still breaking in the WE. To me, the winner is sure WE. 

 My fully moded D1. Sound totally diff comp to stock. Achieving what I want: balance btw dynamic and smooth sounding, airy high, weighty mid,midbass and very reasonable bass extension, fantastic separation and sound stage.














  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *uelover* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hey i wonder if anyone has a first hand experience about the performance of WE396A tube on mav d1?

 i'm using the stock tube-amp with OPA627 and i liked the harmony between a forward sounding op-amp and a laid-back tube.

 i'm tried raytheon tube also but it is too harsh to my liking. Am thinking of an upgrade to WE396A but i don't really understand the 'darker background' description of the sound of WE396A. Is it also the similar laid-back sound?_


----------



## novice

Wow, finally! Took me three days to finish the whole 94 pages! Sorry Ryan, I'm not ordering Maverick since I'm in China for work and I am getting the Xiangsheng version while I'm in the country 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I plan to upgrade the opamp and the tube, with zero experience in electric and soldering (hence the noob questions below), I will order/deliver the parts to XS and let them do the upgrade for me. 

 Questions:
 1. LT1364, LT1364CN8, or LT1346CS: with DIP-8 or SOP-8 options. Which should I buy?

 2. L4562MA SOP-8 this is the right part, isn't it? (previous post mentioned about choosing SOP-8 --> MA)

 3. Tube: Raytheon Windmill Getter 5670.2C51.6N3, what does "Black Plate" mean? 

 4. I have an option to let the DAC to always in direct mode (max volume out for preamps). I believe minimizing number of switch hence simplifies the design will eliminate problems found in some previous posts. Now, since I'm using it as DAC/preamp to an integrated amplifier, will the preamp output be too "hot"?

 5. I don't quite understand about DC offset testing after replacing the opamps. Do I need to test the output with cheaper headphones before inserting my ATH? I mean, if the alteration works fine with yours then why should I worry with mine (same alteration)? 

 6. Tubes available (other than stock, GE 5670, Sylvania 5670 mentioned all over the thread): Sylvania 5814A/12AU7, RAYTHEON 5814/ECC82/12AT7, RAYTHEON JAN5842WA, RAYTHEON JAN 5755, RAYTHEON 5687. Any thought about these models? Else I will just stick with Raytheon Windmill Getter 5670.



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mambosenior* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've lived with the D1 for about three weeks and still maintain that it's a screaming bargain! Better yet, with the M2tech feeding it from my Mac (I prefer Coax to either USB or Toslink).

 I had had initial reservations about using it also as a tube preamp because of what I perceived to be bad synergy with a Threshold 400A amp, driving KEF monitor speakers—seemed that it didn't have enough gain. Well, that has been put to rest with added burn-in and a change to a WE tube. The imaging is wonderful and the sound has gotten fuller and warmer (using original OpAmp). With headphones, it's an eminently worthy partner to my DV 3322 (prefer the DV to the D1 for headphone output) and HD-800. An also very fine-sounding Paradisea 3 (WE tube) has gotten very little attention, so little that I am pondering selling it. The D1 has a larger soundstage (very importatnt to me) than the Paradisea, and doesn't take a back seat to it in SQ.

 Sinophobes (none here on my couch) needn't worry with this product or manufacturer._

 

@Mambosenior: Which KEF monitors are they? I have a pair of KEF iQ3, well I wouldn't call them monitors, but I wonder if Mav (or XS) will make a good preamp for them:

 Foobar2k --> Xiangsheng DAC01A --> Pioneer A201 Integrated Amplifier --> KEF iQ3

 So you mentioned that with burn-in and WE tube, it sounds full and warm, but do you find the gain to be sufficient enough now? AFAIK the tube preamp was mentioned to be a little bit "hot", which is in contrary with what you thought (not enough gain). I'm sorry but could you give a firmer validation regarding this matter? 

 Thanks a bunch!


 Background information:
 Source: Philips DVP3256K, monochrome iPod, iPod Video, iPod Touch (handy as remote control!), PC/Foobar2k over Creative SB0060
 Secondary transport: Creative XDOCK (for optical iPod transport)

 Amplification: Xiangsheng DAC01A (to be), Pioneer A201 Integrated Amplifier

 Outputs: KEF iQ3, Sennheiser HD201, ATH-ESW10, ATH-M40fs, Portapro, Sony EX70


----------



## Mambosenior

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mambosenior* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just tried it using it as a DAC/preamp with a Threshold 400A driving KEF 103.2 speakers. To get satisfactory volume with some classical music files, the gain was 2:. On rock music files, 12:-1: was the average setting._

 

Novice, above is the associated gear for speaker listening with the D1. The gain on the D1, with this equipment, rides at 12: to 2:, depending on the recording.

 I wouldn't call my D1 "hot." My original impression that it didn't have enough gain was that I am used to preamp settings at 9: and 10:, not 2:. My mention of increase in gain after the tube swap was not correct. What it is, really, is an increase in quality of sound. With different amps and speakers (these KEFs are not the most efficient) your results will vary.


----------



## novice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mambosenior* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wouldn't call my D1 "hot." My original impression that it didn't have enough gain was that I am used to preamp settings at 9: and 10:, not 2: With different amps and speakers (these KEFs are not the most efficient) your results will vary._

 


 Did you have the D1 on Direct Mode? I saw some previous posts saying they don't even get past 12, but they might be talking about headphone output, not the tube preamp.

 I am having my XS fixed at direct mode (max volume). So I'll just cross my finger then...

 PS: Nice amp you've got there!


----------



## uelover

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mavwong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I currently using JW WE396A, previously using Windmill getter Raytheon.

 Raytheon to me is smooth, airy high, but lack weight in mid/mid bass and bass extension. (take note I have a heavily mod D1, with LM4562 in both stage and tube out is feed to the hp amp of d1, driving apsv3 cabled HD600)

 WE 396a, has better weight in all spectrum plus better headstage and separation. Only thing I am not happy is it doesn't sound as airy/high extension (may be this is what pp refer to has dark), but I still breaking in the WE. To me, the winner is sure WE. 

 My fully moded D1. Sound totally diff comp to stock. Achieving what I want: balance btw dynamic and smooth sounding, airy high, weighty mid,midbass and very reasonable bass extension, fantastic separation and sound stage.
_

 

hmm, how does it compare to the NOS GE 5670 then? I'm looking for something that allows me to listen to music for long hours without getting tired. Is WE more suitable for critical listening?

 I'm still finding a cheap WE396A deal~


----------



## Mavwong

uelover, I do not own a GE5670 but 5 star triple mica square getter. But I have not burn in the tube and do a critical comparison yet. First impression is not as good as Raytheon windmill in terms separation and stage but things could change after burn in.

 WE have better stage and separation, one of the factor for easy listening. Other aspect also play a part, like smoothness, vocals airyness, headphone choice etc. 

 I just compare Raytheon with WE again just now and still prefer WE to Raytheon for me. Do take note they are not too far apart from each other but in terms of cost, they are different league all together.

 Good luck in WE 396a hunting. (take note JW refers to the military version, non JW is normal version if not wrong)

 Mav


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *uelover* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmm, how does it compare to the NOS GE 5670 then? I'm looking for something that allows me to listen to music for long hours without getting tired. Is WE more suitable for critical listening?

 I'm still finding a cheap WE396A deal~_


----------



## mtl777

Has anybody tried replacing the big red Wima 0.1uF 250V caps on the output of the D1? If so, what capacitor brand/series did you use? Any recommendations?


----------



## uelover

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mavwong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_uelover, I do not own a GE5670 but 5 star triple mica square getter. But I have not burn in the tube and do a critical comparison yet. First impression is not as good as Raytheon windmill in terms separation and stage but things could change after burn in.

 WE have better stage and separation, one of the factor for easy listening. Other aspect also play a part, like smoothness, vocals airyness, headphone choice etc. 

 I just compare Raytheon with WE again just now and still prefer WE to Raytheon for me. Do take note they are not too far apart from each other but in terms of cost, they are different league all together.

 Good luck in WE 396a hunting. (take note JW refers to the military version, non JW is normal version if not wrong)

 Mav_

 

mavwong, did you hook up your maverick d1 to another headphone amplifier? if not the choice of headphone would not influence the sound, but a speaker would.

 i've just ordered a GE 5 stars 5670wa and am waiting for its arrival. trying to withhold myself from pulling the trigger on we396a right away.

 i know that the nos ge 5 stars will produce the kind of soft and relax sound that i like, perhaps i should play around with the op-amp instead to achieve better mids and soundstage?

 but well i've read that maverick audio is coming out with a headphone tube amp so i wonder how would all the tubes from both the pre-amp and amp complement each other.

 fun stuff to come!


----------



## Mavwong

Yah, thanks for correcting me, cos I fed the tube out to the internal hp amp thus thinking everyone would be same, my bad.

 Mtl777
 I use mundrof supreme series 1200VDC 0.1uf on that, take note it's large. The black cap in my image above.

 Mav


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *uelover* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_mavwong, did you hook up your maverick d1 to another headphone amplifier? if not the choice of headphone would not influence the sound, but a speaker would.

 i've just ordered a GE 5 stars 5670wa and am waiting for its arrival. trying to withhold myself from pulling the trigger on we396a right away.

 i know that the nos ge 5 stars will produce the kind of soft and relax sound that i like, perhaps i should play around with the op-amp instead to achieve better mids and soundstage?

 but well i've read that maverick audio is coming out with a headphone tube amp so i wonder how would all the tubes from both the pre-amp and amp complement each other.

 fun stuff to come!_


----------



## uelover

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mavwong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yah, thanks for correcting me, cos I fed the tube out to the internal hp amp thus thinking everyone would be same, my bad.

 Mtl777
 I use mundrof supreme series 1200VDC 0.1uf on that, take note it's large. The black cap in my image above.

 Mav_

 

how did you do that? internal circuit modification or just connecting a cable from the back to the front line-in jack?


----------



## Mavwong

my latest version is to solder connection from tube out socket to a female PC fan connector and plug to HP amp in. You can see it in my photo on top of page 94. 

 The easiest way of doing it without voiding your warranty will be solder a RCA connector to female pc fan connector wire to feed the tube out to internal HP amp. But this way you have to leave the case off. Last time when I did that the volume is too hot (first version high gain D1 I have).

 Run a connection from tube out to line in won't do it cos we can't select coax/opt/usb input along with line in right? I you want to do it this way you will have to cut the internal line in wire and solder it to female pc connector and plug to hp amp in which is what I did initially. I eventually discard this routing cos the line in have coupling cap feed to HP amp input coupling cap again. Just too many coupling stage and it degrade the sound quality too much. Besides, the external connection pick up AC noise if too close to power cord.

 Mav

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *uelover* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how did you do that? internal circuit modification or just connecting a cable from the back to the front line-in jack?_


----------



## mtl777

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mavwong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yah, thanks for correcting me, cos I fed the tube out to the internal hp amp thus thinking everyone would be same, my bad.

 Mtl777
 I use mundrof supreme series 1200VDC 0.1uf on that, take note it's large. The black cap in my image above.

 Mav_

 

That sure is *[size=medium]LARGE![/size]*





 Did you replace the small red Wima 0.1uF 63V caps? Did you also replace any *electrolytics*? Please let me know any other caps that you replaced and what brand/series you replaced them with.

 Thanks!


----------



## frozenfire

After following this for months, I decide to order one. But cant find it on ebay. Where did you got them?

 And I am using HD600. My source will be a pc desktop and a macbook. They both have optical. So if I don't have driver for osx. I can use optical right?

 Since I never had any tube thing before, Can someone tell me how long it can last(if it's used in preamp, it should last longer since the current will be very low). So I can decide if I need to turn it off when I don't use it.


----------



## TheDuke990

@frozenfire: why you don't use his official web site 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

Maverick Audio - Tube Magic D1 DAC


----------



## Mavwong

I replace all the coupling cap(stock red one) 4.7uf to blackgate nx series 4.7uf. The wima you refers to is at the tube out right? I replace with mundrof supreme 0.1uf 1200VDC cap (black one, thought I already mention it in my previous reply).

 Mav

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mtl777* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That sure is *[size=medium]LARGE![/size]*






 Did you replace the small red Wima 0.1uF 63V caps? Did you also replace any *electrolytics*? Please let me know any other caps that you replaced and what brand/series you replaced them with.

 Thanks! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## mtl777

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mavwong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I replace all the coupling cap(stock red one) 0.47uf to blackgate nx series 0.47uf. The wima you refers to is at the tube out right? I replace with mundrof supreme 0.1uf 1200VDC cap (black one, thought I already mention it in my previous reply).

 Mav_

 

Are you sure the *small* coupling caps (stock red ones) were 0.47uF? They are *0.1uF* in mine, and polyester caps like them are very large if their value is 0.47uF. Are we talking about the same caps (C19, C49, C50, etc.)?


----------



## frozenfire

Thanks TheDuke990. 

 Just one more question, if I only use it as hp amp, not as preamp, do I get any benefit if change the tube? 

 I did see some discussion about it. but didn't find an answer


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TheDuke990* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_@frozenfire: why you don't use his official web site 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

Maverick Audio - Tube Magic D1 DAC_


----------



## Mavwong

Nope, the tube out put was not feed to the internal HP amp. In fact, opamps that is closer to the tube also has nothing to do with HP amp sound.

 Mav

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *frozenfire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks TheDuke990. 

 Just one more question, if I only use it as hp amp, not as preamp, do I get any benefit if change the tube? 

 I did see some discussion about it. but didn't find an answer_


----------



## Mavwong

Those are little square cap. I did not replace them. I was referring to the coupling cap between stages, nicon 4.7uf. (error in my last post which I state it's 0.47uf).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mtl777* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you sure the *small* coupling caps (stock red ones) were 0.47uF? They are *0.1uF* in mine, and polyester caps like them are very large if their value is 0.47uF. Are we talking about the same caps (C19, C49, C50, etc.)?_


----------



## Eclecticos

Hi everyone,
 I have had my D1 for about 3 weeks, and have truly enjoyed it. It drives a diy, transformer-coupled 300B SET Amp, powering DIY, MarKen10 (Alpair 10, single-driver, fullrange) speakers.

 I replaced the stock tube (NOS from Russia), with a JAN 2C51, which did wonders for the soundstage, bass and clarity. I have a WE 396 that I have been waiting to try: more later on that score.

 Frustratingly, today I tried replacing the stock headphone op-amp with the gd-audio "Moon" HDAM. I used the gd-audio extension socket/pigtail to allow placement of the HDAM, forward of the socket, on it's side.

 The upshot: no headphone output at all, and a low-level dc-offset click, about once a second. I replaced the stock op-amp, and it is back to normal.

 Any thoughts out there on the "Moon" HDAM, of which I have two, and had hoped to place in both op-amp positions?

 Thanks to everyone here for steering me to the D1, which I am loving!

 Best,

 Marcus


----------



## ding96

Hi guys,
 I have an ath w5000 on the way, and am looking to purchase a budget dac/amp to pair it. Initial I eyed on the at ha25d, since my main source would be a MacBook pro, I thought I could utilize the optical out.
 But after reading through this thread I'm now confused which to buy.
 My main concern was that since I'm only going to use the optical in on both dac/amp, what would be the difference between the 24/192 (ha25d) and 24/96 (d1)? And the dac chip and opamp between the two.


----------



## sdcloud69

would this puppy make for a good upgrade from a ZERO Dac? i've got a serious case of upgrade-itus and this looks pretty nice on paper.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mavwong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nope, the tube out put was not feed to the internal HP amp. In fact, opamps that is closer to the tube also has nothing to do with HP amp sound.

 Mav_

 

The opamp close to the tube is the DAC opamp. If you only use line-in then it won't affect the sound but if you use Coaxial, Optical or USB, it does have an affect on the sound.

 sdcloud69, Several people say that the Maverick unit is better sounding and build quality than the Zero. I can't really comment since I haven't owned the Zero. I will say that the features are kind of the same, it's mostly a different circuit layout. That and the D1 has a tube pre-amp output. From pure observation, I think it can be said that the Maverick D1 is built better than the Zero just because I haven't heard about anyone that's had issues. If you really want the tube pre-amp output, the Maverick D1 could be a decent upgrade but if you won't use it, then depending on your budget you may want to look elsewhere (as much as I hate to say that).


----------



## breakfastchef

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sdcloud69* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_would this puppy make for a good upgrade from a ZERO Dac? i've got a serious case of upgrade-itus and this looks pretty nice on paper._

 

I never owned a Zero, so I cannot say if the Maverick is a step up. Based on my experience, though, using a Beresford Dac (similarly priced to the Maverick), the Maverick is among the good, not great, DAC/headphone amps. 

 The Maverick does provide a tube output that feeds into an amplifier that runs speakers. This feature does allow you to change the sound signature to a more tube-like sound, and can be adjusted by tube rolling. Is it better than a stock CD or digital input?; I say yes.

 The headphone section is purely digital to analog. To fine tune the Maverick to your personal preference would require rolling opamps. Nothing cast in stone, but you can start with impressions by other Maverick owners to narrow down on several op amps that might fit your headphones.

 Overall, the Maverick is a nice, mid-end unit. Nothing spectacular, yet it does improve on the digital inputs you may be feeding to your headphone or speaker systems. I am keeping mine since I probably cannot appreciate the sound difference from a device costing twice as much.


----------



## Mavwong

That opamps has nothing to do with the dac. It is use to drive the solid state preout and also use to feed to input of tube buffer. Try pull out the opamp and u will still get music from the HP Jack. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The opamp close to the tube is the DAC opamp. If you only use line-in then it won't affect the sound but if you use Coaxial, Optical or USB, it does have an affect on the sound._


----------



## DannyBuoy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Eclecticos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi everyone,
 I have had my D1 for about 3 weeks, and have truly enjoyed it. It drives a diy, transformer-coupled 300B SET Amp, powering DIY, MarKen10 (Alpair 10, single-driver, fullrange) speakers.

 I replaced the stock tube (NOS from Russia), with a JAN 2C51, which did wonders for the soundstage, bass and clarity. I have a WE 396 that I have been waiting to try: more later on that score.

 Frustratingly, today I tried replacing the stock headphone op-amp with the gd-audio "Moon" HDAM. I used the gd-audio extension socket/pigtail to allow placement of the HDAM, forward of the socket, on it's side.

 The upshot: no headphone output at all, and a low-level dc-offset click, about once a second. I replaced the stock op-amp, and it is back to normal.

 Any thoughts out there on the "Moon" HDAM, of which I have two, and had hoped to place in both op-amp positions?

 Thanks to everyone here for steering me to the D1, which I am loving!

 Best,

 Marcus_

 

Not sure why that is happening to you. I have the Sun in mine for 2 months now without issues. I am not using the extension, I have it plugged right into the DIP. Of course I had to keep the cover off the D1 to do that, but am planning to cut the cover soon to allow HDAm to stick out. I really like the sound from the HDAM over the three other OpAmps I tried. Can you eliminate the pigtail from the cause by plugging right into the DIP and see if you still get the click?
 It may have to do with volatage differences between Sun and Moon as there was concern from Brunson about using his HDAM when I asked him if it would work in the D1 and he asked me to measure the voltage at the OpAmp to make sure it was at least, I don't have the email here but I think he said 4.7 V. Perhaps the Moon requires slightly more voltage to drive than the Sun and it is just below threshold casuing the clicking sound as the circuit's DC offset hits DC. Another possibility is to swap the HDAM out for another one to make sure you do not have a bad capacitor on the HDAM causing the DC click.
 Just some troubleshooting thoughts to throw out there. Let me know what you find will you?


----------



## DannyBuoy

Just throwing it out there to hear some opinions from people who like the D1 but have heard better for a bit more money.

 I have Denon D5000's with JMoney Pads (mentioned becasue it cuts the SPL a bit since pads move drivers away from ears).

 I use the USB In and have not used it as a pre-amp more than just to test it out. I really only use it as a SS HP DAC/AMP.

 I find myself wishing the D1 had more reserves to drive the Denons as the sound gets a little distorted and thin on Bass as I pump the volume to my the pressure levels I like when I want to really feel the music. I only have the volume knob at 9 o'clock maybe as high as 10 O'clock when really pumping (with Windows volume bypassed with Direct Sound), and it seems like the D1 just does not have the capacitors or maybe the transformer to drive the HPs adequately without compromise. 

 What is your opinion on the next level of performance brand/model that I can go to in order to get that fast, deep responsive dynamics I am not getting with the D1?
 My budget is upto $500 if I had to but my comfort would be below that if possible. I think I am getting away from Tubes here as I had an EF2 that could not drive the Denons the way I wanted, and the tubes were not fast enough for my liking. That said, I have never tried any WooAudio or other sunstantially powerful tube amp to see if it was "fast" enough for my liking as I listen to fast beat music not classical or aucoustic style music. If anyone thinks there are tube amps in the sub $500 range that have the speed of dynamics that a SS amp has please let me know, otherwise what SS DAC/AMP with USB Input would you reccomend?

 Thank-you for your time and any feedback you give.


----------



## mtl777

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *breakfastchef* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never owned a Zero, so I cannot say if the Maverick is a step up. Based on my experience, though, using a Beresford Dac (similarly priced to the Maverick), the Maverick is among the good, not great, DAC/headphone amps. _

 

Between the Maverick and the Beresford DAC, which one do you prefer in terms of sound quality only (not considering the features)?


----------



## Hypnotique

ok I have something to share

 I bought the Maverick Audio amp a month ago.

 The unit was faulty..it kept powering off and didn't power up for a while. I brought it back to the shop, they agreed to change it for me, but they said the new unit will take 2 weeks to arrive. I also complained that there was excessive 'graining' on higher volumes (I am using it with Grado 225i) and I couldnt even turn up the volume more than 50%. The shop owner told me he will solve that as well.

 So 2 weeks later, I collect the new unit. It works fine, but the amplification power has dramatically been reduced. I can easily go up to 75% volume now. Of course it has solved the 'graining/scratchy' background noise problem but i want to know if I have been cheated in any way? has the shop owner changed any of the tubes or 'weakened' the unit?


----------



## _Spanky_

You bought one from a shop? I wasn't aware that the Maverick units were available in retail. Well I do know that Ryan has lowered the output gain a bit in the newer units. You could e-mail Ryan with the serial # to verify this. If you're ok with the volume output, I don't think there's a problem.


----------



## Hypnotique

yeah I got it from a retail shop.

 The shop owner told me that the output has been reduced (hence the hissing/graining is gone). It is working fine now and the quality is good (although I don't have any basis for comparison)


----------



## _Spanky_

Hmm, that's pretty cool. Well, no worries then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Just curious, the first 4 digits of your units serial are 2010 right?


----------



## sweetsound2001

Just ordered one, and it's on the way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Have any of you guys try to change the actual DAC chip, or is it even worth doing? How do you think it will compare to Tube Audio Design TDAC?

http://www.angelfire.com/biz/bizzyb/TDAC.html

 Will definitely roll the op-amps and the tube on mine as soon as I get it. Will run it with LA2000 lite headphones by Lawton Audio.

 Thanks!


----------



## Legis

My Maverick, after 3 months of working ok, started yesterday to make this quite loud noise/sizzling when there's no input to any of the inputs. Both line output and tube output make the same noise regardless what input is selected from input selector. As soon as for example optical input starts to send data (the optical input is chosen from the input selector) the noise reduces significantly but it never goes completely away. Noise does not reduce/go away either if I unplug all cords but power and line out cords. I also tried to change both the op-amps and the tube to new, but it did not fix the problem. It seems that there is some kind of hardware malfunction.


----------



## Mysteek

My left RCA preout used to sound significantly quieter than my right. As of recently there is now no sound coming out of the left tube preout at all. I've contacted Ryan and I'm awaiting further information. Any RCA cable going to the left RCA preout has a very loose to non existent fit. I sure hope this is an issue I can fix myself.


----------



## Gubretti

I just got mine yesterday, I changed the tube immediately to a NOS JAN 5670W. Overall I like the sound straight out of the amp, but I use it primarily as a DAC and then connect it to my EF2A. The most noticeable thing so far is an increase in bass. The quality of bass, and even more "punch" to it. My ultrasones however sound better out of the d1 then the ef2a, YMMV.


----------



## Raguvian

I don't want to read the entire thread, but does anyone know what the internals of the D1 are?

 Also, if I use the D1's headphone out, I won't be using the tube part, right? The tube is used only in the tube pre-amp output, if I'm understanding it correctly.

 Finally, would you guys recommend this over the EF2A or the Audinst HUD MX-1? They are all about $20 within each other's price. Thanks.


----------



## Gubretti

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Raguvian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't want to read the entire thread, but does anyone know what the internals of the D1 are?

 Also, if I use the D1's headphone out, I won't be using the tube part, right? The tube is used only in the tube pre-amp output, if I'm understanding it correctly.

 Finally, would you guys recommend this over the EF2A or the Audinst HUD MX-1? They are all about $20 within each other's price. Thanks._

 

The tube component in the D1 is only for the tube pre-out. The headphone out is SS only. Im not sure about the Audinst, however I can comment on the EF2A and the D1 as I own both. Both are great products however I like the DAC portion of the D1 a lot better, but I like the amp of the EF2A better. I just enjoy the tube sound more, but YMMV. I don't know how helpful that information is to you, but between the two there is no real losing pick.


----------



## Raguvian

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Gubretti* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The tube component in the D1 is only for the tube pre-out. The headphone out is SS only. Im not sure about the Audinst, however I can comment on the EF2A and the D1 as I own both. Both are great products however I like the DAC portion of the D1 a lot better, but I like the amp of the EF2A better. I just enjoy the tube sound more, but YMMV. I don't know how helpful that information is to you, but between the two there is no real losing pick.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Good to know, thanks!

 I think I'll go with the D1 on looks alone then. It looks beautiful.


----------



## mtl777

Hey guys, I made a little mess while modding my D1 and need your help real quick. See the two red wires (twisted pair) encircled in the below picture? These wires, which come from the transformer and are soldered to two separate holes on the board, were accidentally broken due to a lot of twisting and turning as I replaced many capacitors on the board (silly me, I did not unsolder the wires first). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I want to solder them back to the board but the problem is, I can see the two holes where the wires should be soldered but I don't know which wire should go into which hole. Does it matter which wire goes into which hole? I'm guessing that it doesn't matter -- the two red wires can probably be reversed because they are of the same color. But I want to be sure beyond any doubt, hence my question. So could someone please let me know if it really matters which wire goes into which hole?

 Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot!


----------



## Mavwong

my d1 do not hav red wire from transformer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 looks like some changes
 made to recent batch of d1. I suspect these voltage
 from transformer were ac. U can try measure the 2 red wire that disjoin and see if they are ac. Best person to answer urquestion will be Ryan. Try give him an service email at his website. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mtl777* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys, I made a little mess while modding my D1 and need your help real quick. See the two red wires (twisted pair) encircled in the below picture? These wires, which come from the transformer and are soldered to two separate holes on the board, were accidentally broken due to a lot of twisting and turning as I replaced many capacitors on the board (silly me, I did not unsolder the wires first). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I want to solder them back to the board but the problem is, I can see the two holes where the wires should be soldered but I don't know which wire should go into which hole. Does it matter which wire goes into which hole? I'm guessing that it doesn't matter -- the two red wires can probably be reversed because they are of the same color. But I want to be sure beyond any doubt, hence my question. So could someone please let me know if it really matters which wire goes into which hole?

 Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## mtl777

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mavwong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_my d1 do not hav red wire from transformer 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 looks like some changes
 made to recent batch of d1. I suspect these voltage
 from transformer were ac. U can try measure the 2 red wire that disjoin and see if they are ac. Best person to answer urquestion will be Ryan. Try give him an service email at his website._

 

Thanks! I looked at the traces and they're leading to the AC inputs of a W06 bridge rectifier. So the wires are carrying AC then. Also, Ryan just replied and confirmed that they're AC and it doesn't matter which hole the wires connect to. So I'm good to go!


----------



## mtl777

Hey guys, another question: When checking for DC offset on the headphone output, do you need to have music playing or is having the D1 turned on good enough?


----------



## Hypnotique

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, that's pretty cool. Well, no worries then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just curious, the first 4 digits of your units serial are 2010 right?_

 

yes its 2010


----------



## taylor

Bought mine a couple weeks ago, very happy with it.

 I'm running AKG K340s, a beastly can that's 2x400 ohm, even higher impedance than the famous HD650. 

 My serial number starts with 2009.

 Has anyone dimmed or replaced the LED? I like having an indication that my equipment is on, but the blue LED is so bright that I can't look at it without seeing spots. Being that I have it on a shelf to the side of my monitor near eye level, that isn't a good thing. Right now, I have about half a dozen layers of scotch tape over the LED, and it's bearable, but I'm curious if anyone else has had problems with this or has done anything about it. I'm tempted to either replace the resistor, or replace it with a dimmer white LED. 

 Aside from that, has anyone tried adjusting the gain?

 I figured that with my difficult-to-drive high impedance cans, I'd have to crank it (and was actually worried the headphone section wouldn't be enough for them), but it's the opposite. There are 30 notches on the volume control. At 0, 1, and 2, there is no audible music. At 3, it is slightly above a normal listening level, and at 4, it's too loud. Oddly enough, with my Shure E2Cs, there is also no music at 0, 1, and 2, but 3 is way too loud. 

 Otherwise, there is a lot of background noise on this thing, but I think it's just dirty AC power, because every amp I've used in this building has had this scratching buzzing hum noise when nothing was playing. I'm thinking about picking up one of those $60 Furman power conditioners. My friend has one, so I was planning on bringing the D1 over there and testing it with and without the power conditioner to see if it does anything.


----------



## techenvy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ruffle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not disclosing what D/A it uses is bogus. As it's been said already on Head-Fi repeatedly, cloning a DAC is far more involved that just using the same parts. And if an engineer wanted to clone it, he could figure it out anyways.

 So if anyone wants to purchase, I'd personally wait until more information can be found about the DAC/Amp. Starky thinks it's a Sheng DAC-01 clone... personally would want to know what I was buying._

 

weird, when i saw the seperate tube output on this i immediatley thought of this 

Pacific Valve & Electric Company Xiansheng DAC 01


----------



## cheaphifi

i can buy a maverick dac for 170$ is it worth the price or not ?
 I'm already owner of a Yulong DAC but i want to try the tubey sound...

 Do u think maverick D1 is a good option ?


----------



## _Spanky_

Oh boy, it's good to see there's quite a few people interested in this still 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I've owned mine for about 4 months without any issues, well, I did have 1 issue. I got bored a while back and decided to replace the top with plexiglass. Bad idea. For the longest time I would get weird noise/faint sounds in the left channel of the headphone out. I started moving my hands around the unit and noticed the sound would lessen but I wasn't touching anything. EMI/RFI. I put the metal shell back on and both channels are quiet. Just a heads up to those that want to mod like that 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll try to answer/help a few people here.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Hypnotique* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yes its 2010_

 

Yea, you definitely have the gain reduced model then. I hope you enjoy it for a long time!


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *taylor* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bought mine a couple weeks ago, very happy with it.

 I'm running AKG K340s, a beastly can that's 2x400 ohm, even higher impedance than the famous HD650. 

 My serial number starts with 2009.

 Has anyone dimmed or replaced the LED? I like having an indication that my equipment is on, but the blue LED is so bright that I can't look at it without seeing spots. Being that I have it on a shelf to the side of my monitor near eye level, that isn't a good thing. Right now, I have about half a dozen layers of scotch tape over the LED, and it's bearable, but I'm curious if anyone else has had problems with this or has done anything about it. I'm tempted to either replace the resistor, or replace it with a dimmer white LED. 

 Aside from that, has anyone tried adjusting the gain?

 I figured that with my difficult-to-drive high impedance cans, I'd have to crank it (and was actually worried the headphone section wouldn't be enough for them), but it's the opposite. There are 30 notches on the volume control. At 0, 1, and 2, there is no audible music. At 3, it is slightly above a normal listening level, and at 4, it's too loud. Oddly enough, with my Shure E2Cs, there is also no music at 0, 1, and 2, but 3 is way too loud. 

 Otherwise, there is a lot of background noise on this thing, but I think it's just dirty AC power, because every amp I've used in this building has had this scratching buzzing hum noise when nothing was playing. I'm thinking about picking up one of those $60 Furman power conditioners. My friend has one, so I was planning on bringing the D1 over there and testing it with and without the power conditioner to see if it does anything._

 

I believe someone swapped the LED out but I don't remember who or where the post would be 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You can search this thread for that though.

 For the gain, yea, it's pretty easily modded. The noise you get is from the gain being so high. Noise exponentially increases with gain so if it's reduced a little bit, the noise will drop a lot. There's a lot of info on this in my condensed thread:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...thread-470639/


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *techenvy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_weird, when i saw the seperate tube output on this i immediatley thought of this 

Pacific Valve & Electric Company Xiansheng DAC 01_

 

Yup, already gone over dozens of times. It was originally a clone but the latest version has improvements in looks, design and function.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cheaphifi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i can buy a maverick dac for 170$ is it worth the price or not ?
 I'm already owner of a Yulong DAC but i want to try the tubey sound...

 Do u think maverick D1 is a good option ?_

 

I think it would be worth it if you sold your Yulong DAC. I don't want to knock the Maverick but to me, it's really good for beginners, people that like to switch sources and someone that's looking for a DAC and tube pre-amp combo. It's a great unit for the price and I'm happy with what I paid. I think there's better (yes, more expensive as well) separate units out there that when combined can sound better than the Maverick D1. You already started that with the Yulong, you could probably pick up a pretty nice dedicated tube amp for the $170. Speaking of which, Ryan (for those that don't know, he's the owner of Maverick Audio) is designing a full tube headphone amp and power amp combo. You may want to hold out for this unit.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Legis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Maverick, after 3 months of working ok, started yesterday to make this quite loud noise/sizzling when there's no input to any of the inputs. Both line output and tube output make the same noise regardless what input is selected from input selector. As soon as for example optical input starts to send data (the optical input is chosen from the input selector) the noise reduces significantly but it never goes completely away. Noise does not reduce/go away either if I unplug all cords but power and line out cords. I also tried to change both the op-amps and the tube to new, but it did not fix the problem. It seems that there is some kind of hardware malfunction._

 

Definitely contact Ryan if you haven't. I don't think he would hesitate in sending a new board out or at the very least, working hard on identifying the problem.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Raguvian* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't want to read the entire thread, but does anyone know what the internals of the D1 are?

 Also, if I use the D1's headphone out, I won't be using the tube part, right? The tube is used only in the tube pre-amp output, if I'm understanding it correctly.

 Finally, would you guys recommend this over the EF2A or the Audinst HUD MX-1? They are all about $20 within each other's price. Thanks._

 

Pictures and info here: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...thread-470639/


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cheaphifi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i can buy a maverick dac for 170$ is it worth the price or not ?
 I'm already owner of a Yulong DAC but i want to try the tubey sound...

 Do u think maverick D1 is a good option ?_

 

Another option would be to use the Yulong DAC and find a true tube amp. Might be cheaper if you don't want to sell your yulong dac.

 At the same time the Maverick has a ton of options which you might enjoy. So I would say its worth every penny of its price.


----------



## _Spanky_

Hey everyone, I created a product page and wiki for the D1. Post your reviews there if you want or just rate it  Check it out:
  http://www.head-fi.org/products/maverick-audio-tubemagic-d1


----------



## elwappo99

Quote: 





techenvy said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ruffle* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


 
   
  The maverick dac is literally that exact same device. The original one was the exact same device with a "Maverick Audio" logo put on the from by Xiansheng. The newer version, ryan altered the design a bit by putting in the direct input, and headphone bypass. Will still sound the exact same.


----------



## Zoltan99

I have low impedance cans, the Audio-Technica ATH-A700. I have read most of this thread and I am looking for a Amp/Dac mainly for Rock/metalcore music.  The Maverick looks great, buy the hissing  really concerns me on low impedance cans.  Has this been fixed yet, can I do anything to solve this?  I am also considering the Audio-gd Fun/Sparrow and this hissing is really killing it for me.  Also do you still get much better sound quality if you replace the psu?


----------



## Nakattack

I'm running an Alessandro MS1, and the hissing doesn't effect normal listening volumes. It starts hissing at about 11 oclock with nothing playing, which is alot higher than what I'd listen to, and I like to crank it sometimes. If you are a quiet listener, I'd be more worried about the channel imbalance until 7 oclock on the attenuator, as if it's late at night this volume is just right.


----------



## Zoltan99

I'm not familiar with the channel imbalance problem and I am a medium listener.  Could you explain it to me if you have time?


----------



## EraserXIV

what's the next logical upgrade from the maverick d1 if you're still looking at a one-box solution? i'll be using it with hd600 and hd650.
   
  i was looking at the audio-gd FUN, LD DAC_2. are these side grades? is there anything that is a surefire upgrade?


----------



## Nakattack

Quote: 





zoltan99 said:


> I'm not familiar with the channel imbalance problem and I am a medium listener.  Could you explain it to me if you have time?


 

 I'm not sure about exact mechanical reasons, but with most attenuators, there is an imbalance of volume supplied to each driver, until the attenuator is turned to a certain point. The quality of the attenuator will determine how far you need to turn it in order to have balanced volume. The Mav needs till about 8 oclock on my unit, which is about 3 steps. If that happens I usually just turn the amp up and lower my sources volume. In not so quiet situations I listen at about 9 oclock.


----------



## elwappo99

I Went from a maverick to a LD DAC_1, which requires a seperate amp.  Huge huge jump up.  However, I doubt you'll get the same jump going to a LD DAC_2, since it uses a lower quality amp inside. Your next upgrade may need a separate amp.
  Quote: 





eraserxiv said:


> what's the next logical upgrade from the maverick d1 if you're still looking at a one-box solution? i'll be using it with hd600 and hd650.
> 
> i was looking at the audio-gd FUN, LD DAC_2. are these side grades? is there anything that is a surefire upgrade?


----------



## taylor

I ordered a set of the resistors that Spanky recommended. Range from 3k to 15k.
   
  I was going to solder two wires to either side of the resistor, then use it to test out values until I find one I'm happy with. Shouldn't require any modifications to the existing thing, as two resistors in parallel will work just as well 1/R = 1/R1 + 1/R2


----------



## Rakim360

Hello all i have a few questions, i am a Noob to all the DAC stuff however i have always had a love for a quality sound but am starting to find new ways for me to start enjoying my audio. I own a set of Senn' Hd595s and have always used them for gaming because of the quality sound they produce with music and movie audio i always felt they were a healthy medium. well i have always gotten my audio through the audio amp that came with my Logitech zx5500 set it has worked for pc and console gaming, movies and music no problem it has several inputs on the back for optical coax and the regular analog. well my 595s were damaged by my daughters puppy so i sent them in i ended up buying a set of skull crushers from skull candy to tide me over until the 595s came back and was kind of blown away by the amplified effect of the skull crushers the whole bass effect was ridiculous!
   
  While it was a bit muddy it was crazy during my shooter sessions with Modern warfare 2 and other games what i did notice was that the voice is a bit overshadowed during the game when there are explosions are going off etc. i had that same problem with the 595s so i know it will be most likely an adjustment in the sound menu on the game,my wish is to get a similar effect with my 595s i know a dedicated sub-woofer is what makes the crushers different what i am wondering is if a similar boosting effect can be achieved and maybe even clearing up the whole sound a bit in the process by using the maverick DAC and if so should i put it ahead of the sound amp for the zx5500 ie: let it clean the signal and then feed into the zx5500 amp then connect my 595s to it as i always have or put it behind the amp as in let it take the signal from the zx5500 amp and plug my 595s into the maverick DAC. Or maybe even if you guys know of another solution that may suit my needs, please feel free to let me know i am as i said new to DACs and don't have a loyalty to any solution or brand my loyalty is to a quality sound. 
   
  Sorry for the long post  and thanks in advance for any help you guys are able to offer!


----------



## ninjikiran

Clean the sound?  Digtal Audio(PC/Game Console) ----> DAC(converts to headphone readable sound).  Basically your audio atm is going through the same process the maverick would put you though just on different levels of quality.
   
  Regardless I assume you want to lower the bass?  You could try tuning the equalizer on your sound card control panel.


----------



## Rakim360

Actually I want to boost the bass, I just don't want it to sound as muddy as it does through the crushers since the 595s are a far superior set of cans albeit without the dedicated subwoofer. I thought I migh be able to achieve a similar if not as dramatic effect with a DAC. While I can use the sound card features of the XFI card during pc based gaming and audio requirements the suggestion of adjusting the bass on the sound card itself leaves me no option while console gaming. Ultimately what I hope to accomplish is a nominal bass increase on my 595s even if it's not as substantial as the bass on the skullcrushers due to the dedicated subwoofer in the skullcrusher cans,and if I am able to also Increase the sound of midrange audio such as voice etc all in one solution then I would be well taken care of, and my final question is do you guys think the maverick DAC Can achieve this or maybe yoANCan reccomend another type of fix or set up tweak that would be beneficial to me again thanks for the input, it's very much appreciated! Actually maybe what I need is a headphone amp maybe?


----------



## ninjikiran

No stand alone DAC/Amp can achieve the kind of substantial benefit you desire.  Headphone choice will on the other hand(check out the DT770 Pro/80ohm), I own the 250ohm version and the bass is VERY strong to the point of me feeling it without being muddy and drab.
   
  Another option is to buy a receiver with built in equalizer functionality, you can connect your PC and game consoles to it.  Though they have questionable DACS for their headphone outputs usually so you might still need a DAC just for the sake of having a decent one.
   
  Your last option is to buy a butt kicker http://www.buttkickergear.com/ButtKicker_Gamer_p/bk-gr.htm, while definitely not for me you will more than likely feel every jolt and bump.
   
  Just thought I would chime in on another option which might be a little more complicated, you can connect your 360 via the Line-In on your sound card(the Digital-In is also an option).  I don't know how this will effect SQ though...


----------



## Ultrainferno

Hello everyone,
   
  Reading these 97 pages sure took me some time! I’m completely new in the world of amps but after reading all this I must say I learned a lot! There’s still tons of posts I don’t get at all about the opamps, resistors, etc. but I’m sure more reading about it will be the answer.
   
  I’m very interested in getting the D1 but I till have some questions, hope you guys can help me out. I understood the gain problem has been solved for the sensitive and low impedance. I didn’t see any new complaints…I plan on using it with different kinds of headphones going from M50 to dt880 – 600 and DT990 – 250 and more...
   
  1. I don’t plan on touching anything inside the D1. Things start to break when I pick up a screwdriver, so soldering stuff would probably set the house on fire. I just hope the D1 will be good enough for the Beyers and other headphones out of the box? You guys got me scared with all the switching of the components.
   
  2. What would be the best way to hook the D1 up?
   
  CD -> Kenwood receiver > Maverick -> Headphones
  CD -> RCA splitter -> Maverick -> Headphones
  CD -> RCA splitter -> Maverick -> Tube out -> Kenwood Receiver -> Headphones
   (with the splitter I can still use the cd without the D1. For the misses  )
   
  I’d like it to be option 3 so I could get a first hear of a tube sound but I don’t know if a Kenwood receiver can be used as the 2nd amp?
   
  3. I understood as well that the tube out can only be used for powered speakers? So no chance they could power my Classic 90s B&W DM610 speakers directly out of the tube out? Specs can be found here:
   
http://users.telenet.be/iris.melon/Lieven/B&W_610.jpg
   
  4. Could anyone post a picture of the power cord for European market? It might be a weird question but the European iBasso connectors don’t work here, the plugs are different so I can only power it via usb. Or could I just buy a standard power cable for the D1 here at a local shop? (Maybe I’ll just mail Ryan)
   
  Sorry for all the questions. I tried to be as clear as possible (hope i didn't say anything too stupid). Hopefully someone wants to help me out, after all I did read your 97 pages 
   
  thanks!


----------



## Rakim360

Thank you for the advice i will research the cans you recommended as well as the buttkicker i am off to check them out now!


----------



## JustVisit

Hey Ultrainferno,
   
  Let me try to answer your questions:
   
  1) D1 will be good enough for most headphones out of box. You don't need to open the case of D1 to do modification
  2) The best connection method will be:
   
  CD -- via optical or coaxial cable --> D1 --  via analog RCA analog cable to normal analog output and tube pre output --> Kenwood Receiver (for 2 channel stereo)
   
  The most important part is to get the digital audio input into the D1, only via digital audio input, you will be able to use the "professional D/A converting" in the D1.
  I assume your kenwood should have multiple analog inputs, you can connect both the normal analog out and tube preamp outputs  to your Kenwood, and you can simply change audio input in the kenwood to switch between solid state output and tube preamp output.
  I will recommend you to connect your headphone directly into the D1, since D1 has a dedicate headphone amp circuit which is very good.
   
  3) If you use the connection method I recommended in 2), you will be able to connect your B&W directly to your kenwood receiver. Just switch the audio input to the tube preamp input.
   
  4) D1 uses standard computer power cord (the same power cord uses in your desktop computer). You will have no problem finding a spare in your closet to use with the D1 
   
  Let me know if you have any other question


----------



## Ultrainferno

Thanks for replying Ryan, I will order one.
  Anyone interested in a group buy?


----------



## SuperSizeThis

Hey guys, just curious if anyone has ever paired the D1 with some Shure SRH840's, If so, what were the results? Good/bad combo?


----------



## Barthandelus

what is the difference between this product and Grant Fidelity's ? http://grantfidelity.com/site/Grant_Fidelity_Tube_DAC-09


----------



## Ultrainferno

It's answered somewhere in the 98 pages, the search function might help you. I got an answer to your question in the top 5 results 
   
  But hey I'm a nice guy so here's the short version: basically it is the same thing as the Grant Fidelity Tube DAC 09 and most likely the Xiang Sheng Dac-01. More details? Read the tread


----------



## Noobiiee

any1 in the UK bought this dac/amp yet? I'm considering getting one of these but the tax is really putting me off.


----------



## Barthandelus

I just figured that it might be better to go with Grant Fidelity version of this since shipping is free (probably faster too since they're N.A. based), saves 20 bucks
   
  The faceplate definitely is different. Other than that, I don't observe any differences


----------



## ninjikiran

Shipping is only $15(New York) so you still save more money...(w/ shipping $215-$230).  DHL is relatively quick, anywhere between 4 days - 1 week based on experience overseas.  Really depends on what day you order(given time difference) and how much of a pain customs wants to be.
   
  Based on what others have said in terms of AQ they are basically the same, but I can't vouch for that since I only own a maverick.


----------



## taylor

I tried changing the headphone amp gain. I placed a 5.92Kohm resistor in one, and a 5.62Kohm resistor in the other, both in series with the existing 30Kohm resistors,
   
  I didn't realize that two were neccessary, so when I ordered from Parts Connexion, I got one resistor in each increment, for a total of about ten resistors, to try swapping it out. Luckily, I had ordered like 3k, 5.6, 5.9, 7k, 9k, 11k, and 13k, because I figured the 'sweet spot' would be 4k-6k, so I had two relatively closely matched ones. It took me a long time to find R55, since it's by the two big caps, and I was looking for it to be right next to R54 near the op-amp. At first, I just replaced R54, and was getting one channel with much lower gain than the other.
   
  It seems to have killed off most of the hissing and scratching noise. I was listening at about 7:45 on the volume knob, now I'm up to 9:00 or 9:30. I probably should order a pair of matched 3.6k resistors and just replace them outright. I ordered from Parts Connexion, and the $5 surcharge on orders under $25 just plain sucks. My $0.30 resistors turned into $10 resistors after shipping.


----------



## Nakattack

Most stepped attenuators have issues such as your hissing and scratching, and also channel imbalance until around 8-9 o'clock. My unit only has slight channel imbalance till around 8 o'clock, which isn't too bad. Lowering the gain is probably necessary if you are listening at 7 o'clock. Noone here has tried the Mav with a high-impedance phone yet, hopefully I have enough birthday money coming in to be the first!


----------



## taylor

The K430s are pretty high impedance, 2x400 ohms, and it has plenty of juice for them. Too much, actually.


----------



## ninjikiran

I generally keep it on 6 ticks in, channel imbalance ends at 3 ticks.  I can go up to 7 ticks on some songs.  I don't start hearing a hiss till I reach ear deafening levels of volume.  I have never actually listened to anything at this levels but I would say 60-70% of the volume gauge  I can hear it.


----------



## gskmeva

Hi folks. I don't have a Maverick but I do have a Xiang Sheng DAC (which everyone knows by now is same) and sadly I've encountered the same problem like Mysteek with the unbalanced sound (one side is slightly quieter) through the tube output. Kinda disappointing because I just changed the stock tube to a Raytheon tube which made the sound more fuller but now I'm stuck using half tube and SS output to get a balanced sound. If anyone gets a reply back on how to solve this problem, please give me a heads up. Thanks.
   
  Michael​


----------



## Nakattack

Contact the manufacturer? I have nfi what to do in terms of DIY fixing it.


----------



## elwappo99

How familiar are you with tubes? How old is the tube. Sounds like the tube may not be seated correctly. I'd open it and make sure it's fully pushed in. My other thoughts include a bad tube, or the tube hasn't been burned in enough.  Reseat it, and give it some time.
  Quote: 





gskmeva said:


> Hi folks. I don't have a Maverick but I do have a Xiang Sheng DAC (which everyone knows by now is same) and sadly I've encountered the same problem like Mysteek with the unbalanced sound (one side is slightly quieter) through the tube output. Kinda disappointing because I just changed the stock tube to a Raytheon tube which made the sound more fuller but now I'm stuck using half tube and SS output to get a balanced sound. If anyone gets a reply back on how to solve this problem, please give me a heads up. Thanks.
> 
> Michael​


----------



## sterob

is there any folk own both little dot amp mkiii and this maverick dac/amp ?
   
  i am think between those 2 for my Senn HD600 since they have similar price. Should i get the maverick  run as dac + amp or keep using my old  dac styleaudio HD1V  + LD MK III ?


----------



## elwappo99

Quote: 





sterob said:


> is there any folk own both little dot amp mkiii and this maverick dac/amp ?
> 
> i am think between those 2 for my Senn HD600 since they have similar price. Should i get the maverick  run as dac + amp or keep using my old  dac styleaudio HD1V  + LD MK III ?


 

 Yikes, that's complicated. I've owned both the little dot mkiii and the maverick, although I sold the mkiii some time ago, and I'm in the process of selling my Maverick.  I'm unfamiliar with the HD1V. 
   
  My personal opinions is that the Maverick is a solid device, but the built in amplifier is lower quality than the DAC. The amplifier in it will drive you hd600s very well, and they will sound great, but i feel the headphone amplifier doesn't do the dac justice.
   
  This makes your question kind of difficult. If you get the mkiii you'll upgrade to a great tube amp, but I'm not sure about your DAC. If you get the maverick you'll have a solid DAC, and a good amplifier, which would allow easy upgrade room later.
   
  I'd look for some cross comparison of your HD1V with the Maverick. If you think your HD1V is a low quality source, you could buy the maverick, and then when you are ready purchase a separate amplifier.


----------



## Eclecticos

Thank you for the encouraging words about the Sun HDAM working in your Mav. I finally got a "Moon" working in mine, in the socket closest to the tube, using the extension. I suspect, as you alluded, that the specs were marginal for powering the Moon in the other position (headphone out). I am ordering a "Sun" unit and an "Earth," just to satisfy my curiosity about their respective qualities.
   
  That said, I love the sound of the "Moon" HDAM in the Maverick. It is articulate, sweet, balanced and has authority at low frequencies. On the other hand, it seems to distort at high output, well before my power amp would normally clip. Again, this may be due to the "Moon" being marginal in some respect, in this circuit. I plan to leave it for now, as at normal listening volumes, it is such a treat.
   
  I had tried LT1364, AD897, and of course the stock op amp. Each had merits, I suppose, but right now, the Moon has won, hands down, with the stock op amp coming in second (losing out due to the usual defect of op amps, high frequency harshness).
   
   
  My system: Airport Express Digital Out --> Maverick D1 --> Transformer Coupled 300B --> Alpair 10, single-driver speakers (MarKen 10) / Allesandro Music Series Headphones


----------



## zdkaiser

With the Shure 840s, the D1 does excellent. Highly recommended!!!


----------



## sp70

Ryan just made a new post today on his blog, I stumbled upon just now - figured i'd link it up here. Its some new inside info on his upcoming amp. Sounds exciting to me! I think i'll get in line.  If it looks as good as / is priced as good as the D1 then we may have a very nice little amp on our hands.  I'm interested to see how much more "oomph" the tube out this will give, as I know I usually hook my D1 up to my old Hitachi (with the mosfets) to give my HD600s a bit more power (and sweeter low end.)
   
  Anyway, can't wait to see what next month will bring! Gives me enough time to research 6AK5 tubes too, anyone know anything about their overall sound / rep?
   
  http://www.mavaudio.com/base/audio-and-hi-fi/our-next-product/


----------



## elwappo99

seems like a pure headphone amp


----------



## ninjikiran

A tube amp more like it.
   
  My guess is rather than using the tube pre-out you can use the pure pre-out and benefit from a true tube based amp.
   
  Personally I never heard the difference between a tube amp and solid state amp so I can't really speculate past that.  Though the adventurer in me wants to try it out, the wallet in my butt pocket tells me I will need to wait.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Ordered. How long did you guys have to wait to get a tracking number? How long did it take between ordering and delivery? 2 weeks or so?
   
  * Answered by Ryan. Again


----------



## uelover

hey, has anyone tried using a high-end usb cable and know where if it will indeed make the sound coming through the usb port 'better'?
   
  i know that many use toslink cables but from what i understand a toslink optical cable capable of achieving a high-grade audio standard will usually cost much more.
   
  also, does anyone has the opportunity to try both the opa627 as well as the lt1364cn8 and lm4562na op amp?
  I install opa627 both at the dac and headphone side. the resulting sound is smoother and cleaner at the expense of some details so i wonder if I should change my op-amp to lt1364cn8 and lm4562na. The only thing I dislike is that they are all sold in pairs. =(
   
  or shall I wait for the new upcoming headphone amp?


----------



## ejk1

Quote: 





uelover said:


> hey, has anyone tried using a high-end usb cable and know where if it will indeed make the sound coming through the usb port 'better'?
> 
> i know that many use toslink cables but from what i understand a toslink optical cable capable of achieving a high-grade audio standard will usually cost much more.
> 
> ...


 


 the lm4562 is only about 5.00 and sold in singles at Digikey.com


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





uelover said:


> hey, has anyone tried using a high-end usb cable and know where if it will indeed make the sound coming through the usb port 'better'?
> 
> i know that many use toslink cables but from what i understand a toslink optical cable capable of achieving a high-grade audio standard will usually cost much more.
> 
> ...


 

 Some people will argue about it but lets face it, Toslink COAX and USB are all the same in terms of transporting audio.  Don't believe the placebo of digital cables changing sound quality between high and low quality.
   
  Coax is more finicky, I used a cheap RCA cable to test it out.  Sound quality was the same as the cable I use now but it was  very thin and poorly insulated so it did result in some drop out at random times.

 Sound music file on your computer technically becomes "audio" when it hits the DAC and its converted into something analog that your headphones can translate into audio.  From there on it is static 1's and 0's and 1's and 0's is not something you can really mess up unless it is done intentionally.  The DAC and the chosen opamps are the only place where real coloration can occur.
   
   
  At the same time on my machine using USB is not advised because windows uses a standard driver which locks it out at 48khz meaning any song going out of USB needs to be resampled in some way shape or form which is a lossy process(whether or not the differences in SQ is worth using USB over another transport is up to you).  Using either Toslink or Coax from my sound card as a transport to the DAC provides a lossless(or variable-less) transfer to the DAC.  Mainly because my sound card can be turned into a bit-perfect transport but I don't know if the onboard ones can.
   
  I use the LM4562 opamp on my headphone output and it works like a charm, in terms of SQ from default it sounds basically the same.  Difference being the default opamp has sort of a higher pitched sound on certain syllables like s so it is less fatiguing on my ears over time.


----------



## erasermaj

Hello All, This is my first post to this forum.I'm quite new to the world of hifi and find this forum quite informative.
   
  I am planning to buy a DAC primarly with the purpose of using it as an intermediary between my laptop and Speakers(AudioEngine A5).Sometimes I might use it between my IPOD and Speakers as well. The primary purpose is to improve the Sound quality of the Songs.
   
  I have done some research & finally narrowed it down between
   
  MF V-DAC
   
  &
   
  Maveric D1
   
  These are available for more or less the same price in my country.I have read some reviews on each but nothing that compares them side by side.
   
  Keeping the above parameters in perspective, Can someone (preferably who has had experience with both the products) suggest which would be a better buy ?
   
  Thanks & regards.


----------



## ULTRA-HARMONICS

Tagged...


----------



## sp70

Well I just rolled the venerable WE 396A into my mav, and its just warmed up for 10 minutes - but I can still easily tell that this is a huge improvement. The sound stage is as vast as i've heard with tubes (not that my opinion on tubes necessarily means much!) anyway a huge improvement over the stock tube I was using before. Not to mention, tamed, far more accurate sounding highs, and as mentioned by another user, a darker background. I bought it used for a decent price figuring i'd give it a go and if it was no good I wouldn't be at much of a loss as my stock tube was developing some weird harmonics anyway. I wish I could compare it to the JAN GE 5670 but alas I do not have one, though the general consensus seems to be the WE 396A > GE 5670. Awesome upgrade, highly recommended. sp70.


----------



## ninjikiran

Can't really answer this, the mav has more features and might be $100 cheaper but an actual comparison might be a little more difficult.  My sound card has a Burr Browns DAC which the V-Dac has and I think the SQ out of the maverick is better.  But there is a ton of variables besides the actual chip.
   
  Either way the maverick is great in my opinion and offers you a power amp built in if you want to use headphones eventually(since I know your A5's are powered speakers)  Question is would you hear a difference between dacs on such speakers is more questionable.  I am biased against speakers since I can't afford anything good in that category nor do I really have the environment for it.
  
  Quote: 





erasermaj said:


> Hello All, This is my first post to this forum.I'm quite new to the world of hifi and find this forum quite informative.
> 
> I am planning to buy a DAC primarly with the purpose of using it as an intermediary between my laptop and Speakers(AudioEngine A5).Sometimes I might use it between my IPOD and Speakers as well. The primary purpose is to improve the Sound quality of the Songs.
> 
> ...


----------



## uelover

seems like the use of toslink is the way to go for computer. i'm using a very very cheap toslink cable and the sound is inferior to that of my usb cable as a lot of details were dropped. i borrowed a high-end toslink cable and i could immediately hear details i could not in the past, just that it is too costly.
   
  anyway, i own the stock beijing tube, the nos ge 5 star 5670, raytheon 5670 as well as we396a.I would say that while the nos ge 5 star 5670 sounded ok, it would sound muddy if you were to switch to it from we396a, so much so that it sounded quite bad.
   
  raytheon 5670 is in a class of its own, with its focus on airy highs while the strength of we396a is on its mids and soundstage.
   
  that said, everyone has different preference so it is really up to the individual.​


----------



## ninjikiran

Once you go monoprice you never go back .
   
  I have tried the pre-out before but only with a cheap amp, might check out the new tube amp they are releasing and connect it to the solid state just to try it out.
   
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> seems like the use of toslink is the way to go for computer. i'm using a very very cheap toslink cable and the sound is inferior to that of my usb cable as a lot of details were dropped. i borrowed a high-end toslink cable and i could immediately hear details i could not in the past, just that it is too costly.
> 
> anyway, i own the stock beijing tube, the nos ge 5 star 5670, raytheon 5670 as well as we396a.I would say that while the nos ge 5 star 5670 sounded ok, it would sound muddy if you were to switch to it from we396a, so much so that it sounded quite bad.
> 
> ...


----------



## uelover

I don't live in the States so it is difficult for me to buy from monoprice. Yeah I am well aware of their new tube amp. I guess that connecting the tube pre-out to a tube amp may over color the sound. Maybe solid state out is a better choice. 
   
  I wonder if the new tube amplifier will have its own DAC since from Ryan's blog he said that it can be used individually.​


----------



## ninjikiran

Separately as in with another DAC other than the D1.  It is just an amp for all intents of purposes as far as I see it, when the product page is released and the full spec and details are available to us it'll be easier to see.  If it has a digital input than it would be usable as a DAC considering it would require some kind of chip to convert the digital signal into an analog signal.


----------



## ngower

Bought the GE 5670 version early this morning. I've been contemplating over a DAC for a while and this one offers the most versatility in my eyes. I'm heading off to finish my university studies (finished the first two years at community college locally) and wanted to bring good sound with me. I figure this would serve as a good intermediary between sources and my headphones.
   
  I'm just curious about a few things:
   
  1) Optical from my iMac is probably the best way to go, yes? Are Monoprice optical cables adequate for what I need? I'm not looking to break bank here, the reason this is going to school is so that I don't have to lug my (modest) setup.
   
  2) Does the tube work through the headphones or is it only when connected to another amp?
   
  3) Is there any particular way to hook it up to an amp or should I just "direct audio" straight into a spare line-level input?
   
  4) Can this work as a phono pre-amp? I'm assuming no.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





ngower said:


> Bought the GE 5670 version early this morning. I've been contemplating over a DAC for a while and this one offers the most versatility in my eyes. I'm heading off to finish my university studies (finished the first two years at community college locally) and wanted to bring good sound with me. I figure this would serve as a good intermediary between sources and my headphones.
> 
> I'm just curious about a few things:
> 
> ...


 

 1a) No idea, but personally I would try both USB and Optical output and see if there are any differences in terms of quality.  I never have owned a mac so I don't know how the settings are. 
   
  1b) Monoprice is perfect, HQ cables that are rather inexpensive.  You can go a little more expensive on the cables but for short range connections it is less of an importance considering Monoprice are solid.
   
  2) The tube is solely for coloration purposes, and is only connected in a pre-amp configuration meaning you will require an amp.
   
  3) There is a pure DAC RCA solid state pre-out, next to it is the tube RCA pre-out.  You can connect the amp to either output depending on whether you want coloration from the tube or not.
   
  4)  Don't completely know what you mean by phono pre-amp so can't answer this.


----------



## ngower

2/3) So if I'm using this as a headphone amp at school (iMac>>>D1>>>HD555) the tubes won't be in use, but if I'm using it as a DAC (iMac>>>D1>>>NAD C326BEE>>>headphones/speakers) the tubes will be in use?


----------



## ninjikiran

Basically yea, the tubes have a separate output that is not amped.
   
  There are many ways to use the D1,
  Another dac(or analog device to which they have a DAC already PSP for example) -----> D1 Headphone Amp
  D1 DAC (Clean Output) -------> Seperate Amp
  D1 DAC (Tube output) --------> Seperate Amp
  D1 DAC/Amp as a combo


----------



## Ultrainferno

Received mine yesterday after only 6 days. Was marked 40$ and sample so didn't have to pay custom anything. Great service from Ryan!
   
  D1 was very easy to install and works great, only had 2 hours listening so far but atm I think:
   
  - It is very small, expected it to be bigger!
  - The Tube upgrade was worth it, sounds good!
  - The D1 is perfect, I love all the different inputs
  - There do is a hiss hearable when no music is playing at higher volumes (doesn't bother me)
   
  Only thing I am not liking (yet) is the headphone out. With the Beyer DT99~600ohm it sounds way too high and there is no warmth or bass at all.
  So atm I'm just using it as a dac/pre amp and I'm using the B&W speakers and the headphone out from my amp, sounds much better. it sounds better with the M50 :s
   
  Any idea how i can make the headphone out (a whole lot) warmer with more bass?
   
  Now back to listening some more


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Any idea how i can make the headphone out (a whole lot) warmer with more bass?


 

 Buy different headphones or a much more capable amp.
   
  Sorry.


----------



## Ultrainferno

I'll never get used to that bad Japanese humor


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Any idea how i can make the headphone out (a whole lot) warmer with more bass?


 

 I agree with you that the headphone amp is just so-so...
   
  wait for his new headphone tube amp to be out and get it!
   
  Maverick D1 is an all-rounder just that its weakest link happened to be its headphone out.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





uelover said:


> I agree with you that the headphone amp is just so-so...
> 
> wait for his new headphone tube amp to be out and get it!
> 
> Maverick D1 is an all-rounder just that its weakest link happened to be its headphone out.


 

 Good idea. but how the hell am i going to sell that idea to the misses


----------



## Currawong

Quote:


ultrainferno said:


> I'll never get used to that bad Japanese humor


 

 I'm not Japanese though. Straight-talking Australian.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Good idea. but how the hell am i going to sell that idea to the misses


 

 You mean sell that idea to the 'masses'?
   
  Hmm I know that Ryan marketed his Maverick D1 as a DAC with a Tube Pre-out so those two are definitely the strength of this unit. Considering Maverick as a standalone DAC for this price and quality, it is already a steal. Though I would rate the quality of the headphone amp as 'so-so', that is because I'm comparing it to the higher end dedicated headphone amplifier. =)
   
  I am using OPA627 as my headphone out op-amp and it smoothens out the sound. The sound produced by the stock op-amp is too bright for me. You can try LT1364CN8 and LM4562NA op-amp as well. They are one of the few ways you can alter the sound for the headphone out on your maverick d1 without spending money to get another headphone amp. 
   
  I don't really have any issue with bass. Songs reproduced well with all the bass in it.
  I dont quite understand why you would complain about it sounding too loud since there is a volume control dial. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Anyway the DP by currawong displays a chinese calligraphy. It is no way Japanese. Hahaha.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Thanks for the info Uelover. I'm gonna read the condensed FAQ again as well, i'm sure there's some solutions there as well.
  Btw, I never complained it sounded too loud, just high and not warm like my amp


----------



## uelover

Quote:


ultrainferno said:


> Thanks for the info Uelover. I'm gonna read the condensed FAQ again as well, i'm sure there's some solutions there as well.
> Btw, I never complained it sounded too loud, just high and not warm like my amp


 

 Yeah spanky did a good job there in the condensed FAQ. He recabled the pretube out to the headphone output but that would imply that you gotta forfeit the pre-tube out to your speaker.
   
  I guess changing the op-amp is what you need at the moment. =)


----------



## ngower

Reading on swapping the opamp now, but I'm curious, is it just a pull and replace chip or is it soldered (or fixed somehow)into the unit?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Quote:
> 
> Yeah spanky did a good job there in the condensed FAQ. He recabled the pretube out to the headphone output but that would imply that you gotta forfeit the pre-tube out to your speaker.
> 
> I guess changing the op-amp is what you need at the moment. =)


 

 Glad you like the thread  I actually haven't modified anything in the D1 aside from the opamps. I'm very curious to see how well the synergy is with the new tube amp.

  
  Quote: 





ngower said:


> Reading on swapping the opamp now, but I'm curious, is it just a pull and replace chip or is it soldered (or fixed somehow)into the unit?


 

 Just pull it straight out. It's not secured but on some of the older units the opamps were soldered into the PCB, removed, sockets were soldered in and then the opamps into the sockets. Because of this, there may be some slight bending or solder residue on the pins which may offer more resistance but just pull, nothing should be damaged. If you're careful or don't care about the stock opamps, use a pair of needle-nose pliers.


----------



## Currawong

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Anyway the DP by currawong displays a chinese calligraphy. It is no way Japanese. Hahaha.


 
   
  My avatar?  Calligraphed by the founder of Aikido.


----------



## Nakattack

Japan has borrowed chinese characters since it was first created. It is called Kanji. That one means light, which you would also know, as most of the characters still retain the same meaning.


----------



## x3dnd3x

Bkmarked .


----------



## ninjikiran

http://www.mavaudio.com/base/audio-and-hi-fi/a-bit-more-information-about-our-up-coming-hybrid-amplifier/
   
  New information


----------



## ngower

Received mine today and it's easily the most notable improvement in sound. Hearing sounds that were in the recording, but hidden before. Bass is more...um...I'm not sure how to describe it. It thumps but not obnoxiously so and just sounds sort of there if that makes sense. Sound is fantastic even with most of the 200-300 range of kbps MP3s I have. I tested analogue out of my CD player and I'll certainly need to grab an optical cord at some point as the sound is barely different through that medium than it was on my iMac.
   
  Really happy with the purchase.


----------



## taylor

Does anyone else have problems with their D1 when switching digital inputs?
   
  It seems to take a considerable amount of time to switch. I have two PCs connected, one with USB and one with optical SPDIF. When I switch over to the optical one, it takes a minute or so for it to pick up the signal. When I switch back to USB, it plays everything at twice the normal speed, and makes the same noise that shuffling a deck of cards makes. Pulling out the USB cable and plugging it back in fixed it, but it definitely bothers me that switching inputs is so difficult for this thing. I should not have to be unplugging the DAC, turning it on and off, or disconnecting and reconnecting cables just to switch from one input to another. That's what the Source knob is supposed to do.
   
  Any ideas on how to fix this?


----------



## _Spanky_

That is really weird. I haven't heard of anything like that but my guess would be something improperly soldered (highly unlikely) or just a bad receiver chip or something. Definitely email Ryan to get this resolved. He does come here frequently but I think he would be more prompt with e-mail. Good luck with this and let us know how it goes!


----------



## ninjikiran

I connected 1x RCA, 1x USB, and 1xCoax to my device and was able to switch between all 3 without any problems.  There is a small noise when switching sometimes but that is the sound it makes when you change sample rate between a non-multiple.  The USB and Coax were connected to the same machine as was the RCA.
   
  Sometimes I switch between Optical and Coax (Between PC and Game Console)
   
  As sparky said above there is probably a problem with your maverick(or less likely the devices you use).
  
  Quote: 





taylor said:


> Does anyone else have problems with their D1 when switching digital inputs?
> 
> It seems to take a considerable amount of time to switch. I have two PCs connected, one with USB and one with optical SPDIF. When I switch over to the optical one, it takes a minute or so for it to pick up the signal. When I switch back to USB, it plays everything at twice the normal speed, and makes the same noise that shuffling a deck of cards makes. Pulling out the USB cable and plugging it back in fixed it, but it definitely bothers me that switching inputs is so difficult for this thing. I should not have to be unplugging the DAC, turning it on and off, or disconnecting and reconnecting cables just to switch from one input to another. That's what the Source knob is supposed to do.
> 
> Any ideas on how to fix this?


----------



## taylor

Hmmm, I tried it again today and it worked fine. Unexpected, but I'm happy. Only time will tell if the problem occurs again.


----------



## GPollos

Ok, question:
   
  Earlier this year, May actually, I bought myself a new 2.0 stereo system.
   
  Cambridge Audio Azur 540a V1
  PSB Alpha T1's
   
  and of course I have my Maverick :3
   
  However, this setup is a little bit too bright. I like a brighter system, but this is a tad bit more at times.
   
  I currently have the GE 5670 tube in the mav, but I'm considering getting the WE 396A. The FAQ lists it at a notably darker tube. My hope is to balance out the sound, by using a darker tube in the pre amp stage to compensate for the brightness of the amp.
   
  Suggestions?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





gpollos said:


> Ok, question:
> 
> Earlier this year, May actually, I bought myself a new 2.0 stereo system.
> 
> ...


 

 try out the non tube pre-out, see what happens.  Just for funs sake it might be less "bright" and might not even be your style but it still exist there.  After that I don't have any good suggestions.


----------



## x3dnd3x

Anyone here tried D1 wif D2000 ? Hw's the sound like ?


----------



## Eclecticos

I just replaced the Moon HDAM with an Earth HDAM (gd-audio discrete op amps) in my D1. I had expected to not like the change, but wow, what a surprise. While I can't say, yet, that I prefer it to the Moon sound, it is a wonderful new flavor in the D1 ice cream parlor.
   
  The Earth has a lot more weight, but without a loss of top-end detail. I have only played pop and rock through it so far (Jonsi, Cat Power, Broken Social Scene, Sufjan Stevens, Led Zepelin (ok, that's an outlier for me, but I just watched "It Might Get Loud," a superb documentary about Jimmy Page, The Edge and Jack White, and I got the bug to listen to all their respective discographies). Mid range doesn't suffer either, with the Earth. I am thinking the Earth HDAM is simply up about 4 dB at the bottom octave, as the only *obvious* difference. There are a lot of other, subtle things going on, to my ears, as well, so the Earth is again, a sweet new flavor, worthy of a listen, and maybe a long term residence in the D1.
   
  I have a Sun HDAM waiting in the wings, and my 8 year old, Aidan and I intend to compare Sufjan Stevens "Chicago," from Illinoise to compare the two, new op amps.
   
  Obviously the circuit is not optimal for these HDAM's (I think it's a supply voltage issue), but at normal listening levels, the D1 with these outboard op amps is pretty darned amazing. Soundstage, resolution, micro-detail, yada yada.
   
  The weekend started early!
   
  Marc


----------



## Eclecticos

The D1/HDAM listening session continues with the Sun HDAM (audio-gd):
   
  The Sun is definitely tilted toward the top. I'd say it's up 6 dB from 6K Hz up. Very tilted. Listening to Chicago (Sufjan Stephens), our "reference song" for this comparison (me and my 8 year old son, Aidan), the ethereal voices really shimmer. Unlike with the Earth HDAM, Sufjan doesn't groove as much, but still sounds "right." The Earth really "boogies," where the Sun puts the spotlight on voices and cymbals. Love the cymbals with earth; pristine; crystaline. About the best top-end rendition I can remember hearing. Now, listening to Adrian Belew, "Here," confirming that pristine top end.
   
  I don't want to suggest that the Sun is lacking at the bottom, now listening to Stars, "Genova Heights," shows that the Sun can clearly "boogie" too. The bass line really comes across here.
   
  What surprises me is just how much I am enjoying the rendition of high frequency material. I expected the Sun to be just plain "bright," so I originally ordered only the Moon HDAM's. I am glad I later went in for the Earth and Sun. The Sun makes it a treat to listen to anything with well-recorded top end. There is a golden quality to vocals and acoustic guitar that is quite special. Susan Mckeown sounds splendid, BTW on this setup.
   
  If you don't have Molina and Johnson (the collaboration between bandleaders of Magnolia Electric Company and Centro-Matic), I could listen to it over and over on the D1 with the Sun HDAM. Wow. Warmth with articulation and detail in spades. Guitar solos (sounds like they recorded them with a ribbon mic , are honey sweet. Vocals are amazing; pure, rich and caramelly. The winsome, somewhat dark quality of this mostly acoustic album comes through.
   
  D1 with Sun HDAM was made for Death Cab For Cutie. Transatlanticism is more present and affecting than I have ever heard it.
   
  Iron and Wine, Shepherds Dog: Percussion is superb with the Sun. Transients are thrilling. Bass seems very well rendered. You could be a conoissiuer of reverb with the Sun in the D1.
   
  Abigail Washburn, Songs of the Traveling Daughter. I actually enjoy the vocal renditions on this album for the first time. This is very spare, well recorded female vocal music and banjo, and it is crisp, but warmer than I expected to find it with the Sun.
   
  Sufjan Stevens, Michigan: This is darker than I expected to find it with the Sun. Very pleasingly ultra-crisp, but somehow "dark" at the same time. Ultra-articulated, but very smooth. Vocal sibilance is actually enjoyable with this combination.
   
  My summary comment at this point is that I am having a blast rolling discrete op amps. I really, really like the Moon HDAM, but as of today, I can say that I am really glad I bought the others, and that I can roll op amps like I roll tubes. Also, I am falling in love with transistors (OK, at least appreciating them deeply) in a way I did not expect to. In a well designed circuit, as my friend Rupert Neve often harps about, they can be superb. OK, count me a believer.
   
  Background: I tried all the listed, IC op amp combinations in the DAC and Headphone positions that were recommended in the FAQ for the D1. So far, I am enjoying the HDAM's a lot more. That said, if I had to go back to an IC op amp, I seem to prefer the stock units. I already went back to the stock op amp for the headphone output, as the only HDAM I tried there didn't work at all (just popping and almost inaudible audio, using the Moon HDAM).
   
  Issues that remain: all these HDAM's clip at high volume. I think the D1 doesn't supply an optimal voltage for the operating characteristics of the HDAM's from audio-gd. I know this sounds horribly compromised, and like a non-starter as an option in the D1, but darn these sound good at normal+ listening levels! Know that I am a shameless audio snob. Anything but single-ended, class A (generally with triodes) is palid and unappealing to me most of the time. That said, I am loving what I hear.
   
  Listening to amazing Celtic Violin right now (Hayes and Cahill, The Lonesome Touch), and this is making for the beginnings of a splendid day off!
   
  Let the listening continue! Back to HDAM rolling!
   
  Marc
   
  My Setup: Airport Express Digital Out > Maverick D1 (WE 396a) > DIY Transformer Coupled 300B SE Amp > DIY Alpair 10 Speakers in MarKen10 Cabinets. Power: 110 VAC (Pure Sin Wave) via Texas Sunshine > Unisolar and Kyocera Panels > Outback Charger Controllers and Inverters > Nickel Iron Batteries


----------



## maverickronin

I've got some D2000s coming in Monday, and I've already got a Maverick, so I can post some impressions then.  They'll be facing off against some DT990/600s.


----------



## ninjikiran

Ohh I would love the DT990 impressions with the maverick   Though in my environment I am not too hot on open headphones I still want to buy a pair for those small periods of time it is silent.


----------



## maverickronin

Quote:


ninjikiran said:


> Ohh I would love the DT990 impressions with the maverick   Though in my environment I am not too hot on open headphones I still want to buy a pair for those small periods of time it is silent.


 

 Well, so far they sound great, if its the sound you're looking for.  I love the bass, I love the soundstaging, but so far they seem a too bright for me.  For short periods of time, like when I tested them at canjam, they're fantastic.  After an hour or so the treble starts to grate on my ears.  I've only had them for 2 days, so maybe a bit of break in will help.  I'm not sure it will, so I just ordered the Denons this morning.  That will give me almost 2 weeks to compare and contrast before I'll have to send one back.  I've written some more about it in this thread.
   
  Regarding synergy between the 'phones and the amp, I don't have much experience in judging that kind of thing but it can power them to ludicrous volumes and produce some thunderous bass, even at more moderate levels.  The only other amp I have to compare it to is my Bithead, which actually powers the 990/600s to a halfway decent volume but isn't quite up to that task.


----------



## sp70

If you have not already, I highly recommend rolling the OPAMPs. For me, it made the largest difference in getting rid of the brightness. replace the NEs with the LMs in my sig, also mentioned in Spanky's thread. Its a simple procedure and only amounts to around ~$15 when ordered off digikey. Best upgrade to your Maverick you'll make.  sp70.
  
  Quote: 





gpollos said:


> Ok, question:
> 
> Earlier this year, May actually, I bought myself a new 2.0 stereo system.
> 
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

I have DT770pro/250  so the bass would probably be a little light for me in comparison.  Not really a big deal   I'll have to give them a try eventually.
  Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> Quote:
> 
> Well, so far they sound great, if its the sound you're looking for.  I love the bass, I love the soundstaging, but so far they seem a too bright for me.  For short periods of time, like when I tested them at canjam, they're fantastic.  After an hour or so the treble starts to grate on my ears.  I've only had them for 2 days, so maybe a bit of break in will help.  I'm not sure it will, so I just ordered the Denons this morning.  That will give me almost 2 weeks to compare and contrast before I'll have to send one back.  I've written some more about it in this thread.
> 
> Regarding synergy between the 'phones and the amp, I don't have much experience in judging that kind of thing but it can power them to ludicrous volumes and produce some thunderous bass, even at more moderate levels.  The only other amp I have to compare it to is my Bithead, which actually powers the 990/600s to a halfway decent volume but isn't quite up to that task.


----------



## maverickronin

New plan of attack.  Tube preout > Total Bithead.  Preliminary results are promising.  I'll have to wait a few hours and see if my ears hate me for it to be sure.
   
  Update
   
  Ok, it definitely makes the treble less fatiguing, but there's still too much of it.  The balance is off from what I =843&graphID[1]=&graphID[2]=&graphID[3]=&graphType=0&buttonSelection=Compare+Headphones]prefer/am used to, and I can't turn it up very far without the treble scouring my eardrums.  This is really pissing me off.  I wanted to like these things and I thought I would, but it seems even trying them out at a meet isn't a good enough guarantee.


----------



## Ultrainferno

I like the SS and Tube out to my amplifier, the DT990~600 sound great from there. Love the sound
  But like I said before, the D1 headphone out is way too bright. If I do change the OPAMPs, will it only change the headphone out or the analog and tube out as well?
   
  Edit: 3 weeks after having received the D1, DHL contact me.I need to pay 7€ Customs taxes and 5€ Administrative costs. So that only makes 12€ on top of the D1 price.


----------



## sp70

Rolling the OPAMPs will change the headphone out and the SS / tube outputs as well. I'm telling you, its the single greatest upgrade you can make for the money to the Maverick. Not to mention its very simple, takes about 10 minutes to do, and gets rid of a great deal of the brightness. sp70.
  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> I like the SS and Tube out to my amplifier, the DT990~600 sound great from there. Love the sound
> But like I said before, the D1 headphone out is way too bright. If I do change the OPAMPs, will it only change the headphone out or the analog and tube out as well?
> 
> Edit: 3 weeks after having received the D1, DHL contact me.I need to pay 7€ Customs taxes and 5€ Administrative costs. So that only makes 12€ on top of the D1 price.


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





sp70 said:


> Rolling the OPAMPs will change the headphone out and the SS / tube outputs as well. I'm telling you, its the single greatest upgrade you can make for the money to the Maverick. Not to mention its very simple, takes about 10 minutes to do, and gets rid of a great deal of the brightness. sp70.


 

 I ordered the opamps in your sig since they weren't much money at all.  The one for the DAC should come in a few days, but the one for the HP amp was on back order so it might be a while.
   
  I don't think changing the opamps will change my opinion of the DT990/600s though.  They were too bright out of every source I tried.  D2+, Total Bithead, the Maverick, and an X-Fi.  I love everything else about them though.  Overall, they're just not my style though.  If you like your highs sparkly and your bass deep, the 990/600s are probably the 'phones for you.  I'll make a final decision after about 100 hours of burn in, but barring miracles I'm probably sending them back.
   
  Also ordered some windmill getters as my first foray into tube rolling.  I don't use the tube preout much at the moment, but at the very least I'll have some spares for the future.


----------



## _Spanky_

maverickronin, the LT1364 and LM4562 really do reduce the shrill highs in the Maverick D1 but only after burn-in and not a ton. Unless I'm reading your post wrong, definitely give the DT990's some burn-in as well. Get some of your favorite songs running through theD1 and those cans but only if you're home. I don't want to scare anyone but I don't see a UL listing on the D1, only a CE which may stand for China Export. I highly doubt there will be any issues since Ryan goes through R&D like mad but people need to be aware of leaving appliances on when they are gone, especially foreign-made ones that haven't gone through safety testing via an independent organization.


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> maverickronin, the LT1364 and LM4562 really do reduce the shrill highs in the Maverick D1 but only after burn-in and not a ton. Unless I'm reading your post wrong, definitely give the DT990's some burn-in as well. Get some of your favorite songs running through theD1 and those cans but only if you're home. I don't want to scare anyone but I don't see a UL listing on the D1, only a CE which may stand for China Export. I highly doubt there will be any issues since Ryan goes through R&D like mad but people need to be aware of leaving appliances on when they are gone, especially foreign-made ones that haven't gone through safety testing via an independent organization.


 
   
  I think the DT990s actually got worse (to my tastes anyway) with burn in.  The highs were pretty tame for the first few hours, but now I can't listen to more than half an album before the highs get to me, and like I said above, they do it with every amp/source I've got.  They had around 50 hours, on them the last time I listened to them, yesterday afternoon.  All this is with the felt 'mod' as well.  On the inside, between the driver and the retainer ring, they actually make them brighter, because they damp the bass more than the treble.  The treble is attenuated to a noticeable degree and makes them less fatiguing, but not enough.  Plus I miss the bass.  The impressions I wrote in this thread were with two layers of felt on the outside between the foam and the ear pads.  It attenuates the treble a bit less then when placed on the driver, but leaves the bass untouched.  Like I said before I'm going to give them another 50 hours of break in before deciding to keep or return them.  I think 100 hours should be plenty of break in but I'll let it go longer if anyone has experience that suggests otherwise.  I could be wrong, but it seems to be getting brighter with break in, which is definitely not what I'm looking for.
   
  I just got some D2000s in this morning, which were my second choice after listening to a whole lot of stuff at canjam.  Right now I'm listening to them at work, on my Bithead.  So far, so good.  I'll get to try them out on my Maverick later tonight.
   
  I'd also like to reiterate (since I seem prone to being misunderstood...) that I'm not saying the the 990/600 suck, (The 250s are another story though, I think they do.)  they just aren't to my tastes.


----------



## _Spanky_

Hmmm, that's too bad. I love my DT770's but probably won't move up the chain. I hear a lot of great things with D2000's and a few people use those with the Maverick D1 and enjoy it.


----------



## maverickronin

Quote:


_spanky_ said:


> Hmmm, that's too bad. I love my DT770's but probably won't move up the chain. I hear a lot of great things with D2000's and a few people use those with the Maverick D1 and enjoy it.


 

 The 880s and 990s aren't really up the chain.  They seem more like variations on a theme to me.  They're a collection of trade offs, relative to each other.  Neurtal or 'fun', closed and isolating, or open with a great soundstage.  That kind of thing.  Of all they Beyers I listened to at canjam, I didn't think any of them were bad, except for the 990/250s.  The rest of them were good but not quite what I was looking for.  Different strokes for different folks.  That kind of thing.


----------



## maverickronin

So far my D2000s sound quite good on my Bithead, but a little shrill on the Maverick.  I didn't notice any extra shrillness with the other 'phones I tried on it though.  So now I have a few questions.
   
  It also seems shrill through the tube out into my Bithead.  Does the signal go through the DAC opamp and then through the tube?  (I have the base Chinese tube since I didn't know if I'd like tubes at all when I bought it, but thought it might be a good way to find out)
   
  Which opamp makes the biggest difference to the shrillnes?  The LT1364CN8#PBF for the DAC should arrive in a day or two, but the LM4562NA/NOPB seems to be back ordered or non-stock everywhere I look.  Digi-Key says they won't have one till the end of July.  Will the LT1364CN8#PBF get rid of some/most/any of the shrillness on the preouts or the HP out with the stock opamp?


----------



## ninjikiran

My X-Fi prelude had a LM4562NA in its swap socket which I ganked since I wasn't using analog output anyway on the card. Personally I think burn-in when it comes to headphones is primarily us getting used to the sound signature.  At the same times my headphones get "worst" when my ears are fatigued or I am insanely tired.
   
  As others have said the opamp swap gets rid of the shrills.  It was noticeable immediately to my ears, they weren't getting angry at me during certain songs.
  Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> So far my D2000s sound quite good on my Bithead, but a little shrill on the Maverick.  I didn't notice any extra shrillness with the other 'phones I tried on it though.  So now I have a few questions.
> 
> It also seems shrill through the tube out into my Bithead.  Does the signal go through the DAC opamp and then through the tube?  (I have the base Chinese tube since I didn't know if I'd like tubes at all when I bought it, but thought it might be a good way to find out)
> 
> Which opamp makes the biggest difference to the shrillnes?  The LT1364CN8#PBF for the DAC should arrive in a day or two, but the LM4562NA/NOPB seems to be back ordered or non-stock everywhere I look.  Digi-Key says they won't have one till the end of July.  Will the LT1364CN8#PBF get rid of some/most/any of the shrillness on the preouts or the HP out with the stock opamp?


----------



## reiserFS

So, according to Ryan, they'll start taking pre-orders for their new amp near the end of this month. Anyone else excited?


----------



## ngower

I recently bought an Xbox 360 and used this amp for sound. I noticed during Sam and Max a bit of a hiss when the characters were talking. Is this a result of the amp itself or the recording of the game's audio?
   
  Also, if I'm using the digital out (instead of tube), do I still need to warm up?


----------



## maverickronin

If you don't notice it all the time, its probably just how the voices are recorded or compressed.


----------



## reiserFS

You don't need the warm up for the tubes if you're using the digital out.


----------



## DDVX

Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> So far my D2000s sound quite good on my Bithead, but a little shrill on the Maverick.  I didn't notice any extra shrillness with the other 'phones I tried on it though.


 

 I also have D2000s and I've been looking at the Maverick. I have two questions:
   
  1) So does the driver for windows mean no bit-perfect? Sorry this might have been answered somewhere but I looked at the FAQ thread and it said it was unclear as to if whether bit-perfect was possible wasapi or not.
   
  2) Has anyone compared this to the audinst HUD-MX1? I'm in between the two. They are very similar prices but have no comparisons that I can see. 
   
  Thanks!


----------



## maverickronin

I don't think it's bit perfect for anything but 24/96 as shown in the wiki.


----------



## maverickronin

I've now moved on to some HD650s and I don't notice the shrillness that I heard with the DT990/600s and the D2000s.  I don't notice it with my SE530s either, so I guess it's a synergy thing.
   
  Still waiting on the LM4562NA/NOPB from digikey though.  Its so cheap, it can't hurt to try.


----------



## ninjikiran

I honestly don't think its bit perfect at all, I think it changes to 16-bit 48khz with the driver but can't really tell whats going on with it.  It seems to be a limitation of some USB implementations. 
   
  Thats why I use my sound card which can output any song 1:1 via digital output.


----------



## Ultrainferno

I did it!!
   
  I managed to switch the 2 opamps without breaking it. I'm so proud of myself. I do suggest they make those things 3 times the size they arennow, that would be much easier lol
   
  The Dac one came out without a problem with pliers, the headphone one was stuck in there with one connector, managed to get it out (but the original one do is almost broken now...)
   
  Anyhoo, the headphone out sounds better now, but still not perfect 
   
  Thanks for the help!


----------



## uelover

hey, which opamps did you changed to?
  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> I did it!!
> 
> I managed to switch the 2 opamps without breaking it. I'm so proud of myself. I do suggest they make those things 3 times the size they arennow, that would be much easier lol
> 
> ...


----------



## Ultrainferno

The LT1364CN8#PBF with the LM4562NA/NOPB


----------



## uelover

Hmm that is the most touted opamp combination. The only other way to improve the sound for the headphone out would be to use a better toslink/coaxial cable.
   
  Nonetheless, mav d1's focus is on its dac. You can look forward to the upcoming headphone tube amplifier to compliment the mav d1 dac =)
   
  I am looking forward to it as I too feel that the headphone amplifier is still inadequate.
  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> The LT1364CN8#PBF with the LM4562NA/NOPB


----------



## Ultrainferno

Yes, I use the D1 as a DAC/Pre-amp. Perfect with all its different in- and outputs.
  I never use the headphone out, but just wanted to try the mod. And it sounds better now anyway
   
  I'm looking forward to the Mavaudio amplifier as well but I'm not sure yet how I'm going to convince the misses I need one 
  But I won't be buying one from the first production batch anyway, just like with the D1 i'm sure the 2nd batch will be better.
   
  I ordered a mini Bravo V2 in the mean time to play with (only 21€).


----------



## uelover

haha i'm also curious about bravo amp! i don't know how well it will perform. factoring into the shipping fees as well as potential tube swapping i do think it will cost me quite a lot too.
   
  let me know how does it work with mav d1!
  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Yes, I use the D1 as a DAC/Pre-amp. Perfect with all its different in- and outputs.
> I never use the headphone out, but just wanted to try the mod. And it sounds better now anyway
> 
> I'm looking forward to the Mavaudio amplifier as well but I'm not sure yet how I'm going to convince the misses I need one
> ...


----------



## Ultrainferno

ok, I'll get back to you 
   
  Concerning the D1s succeeder, the tube amp: I read on Ryans blog he was going to start taking preorders at the end of this month but I haven't seen anything happening yet. Who's thinking of (pre)ordering the tube amp?


----------



## uelover

I am thinking of pre-ordering the tube amp. Been waiting for its release for over 3 months. Perhaps he is delaying its debut for further improvement. =)
   
  I have been scouting for a headphone amp to go with the maverick d1 for a long time. Had darkvoice 3322 and littledot tube mk iv in my sight but I wanted to see how the maverick tube amp would fare before pulling the trigger.
   
  Considering the quality product of the maverick DAC as well as the complementary design, their headphone amp, if worthy, will be my first choice.
   
  Ultrainferno, will you be preordering it?
  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> ok, I'll get back to you
> 
> Concerning the D1s succeeder, the tube amp: I read on Ryans blog he was going to start taking preorders at the end of this month but I haven't seen anything happening yet. Who's thinking of (pre)ordering the tube amp?


----------



## Ultrainferno

As said above I don't think i will preorder one. I'll wait a bitt till after the tech guys on here got a hold of it, just to be sure. It's not that I need it immediately, my actual amp does a good job


----------



## evanft

So.....getting bit perfect audio using Foobar. Possible at 16/44.1 and 24/96? The posts about it were too confusing.


----------



## reiserFS

Since I don't really want to read through the whole thread, which OPAs have been proven worthy in the D1? Is it possible to fit Audio-Gd HDAMs in there with extension cables?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





evanft said:


> So.....getting bit perfect audio using Foobar. Possible at 16/44.1 and 24/96? The posts about it were too confusing.


 




  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Since I don't really want to read through the whole thread, which OPAs have been proven worthy in the D1? Is it possible to fit Audio-Gd HDAMs in there with extension cables?


 
   
   
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/470639/maverick-audio-tubemagic-d1-condensed-faq-and-info-thread/
  HDAM's might be possible. I think someone used 1 in theirs, not sure if it was in the DAC or amp section. I think using one in the amp section should be pretty straight forward. The problem would be getting the cover back on as well as insulating the HDAM's.


----------



## evanft

D'oh!
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  How does this sound with the DT880/600 ohm?


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/470639/maverick-audio-tubemagic-d1-condensed-faq-and-info-thread/
> HDAM's might be possible. I think someone used 1 in theirs, not sure if it was in the DAC or amp section. I think using one in the amp section should be pretty straight forward. The problem would be getting the cover back on as well as insulating the HDAM's.


 

 Yeah, I was planning to do the plexiglass mod anyway (all sides), so I'll throw away the extension cables and just directly insert it into the socket. Using a dremel to make space for the HDAMs and I should be good to go. The stock OPAs are both dual, right?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Yeah, I was planning to do the plexiglass mod anyway (all sides), so I'll throw away the extension cables and just directly insert it into the socket. Using a dremel to make space for the HDAMs and I should be good to go. Posting pics during the process.


 
   
  You may need to add a socket to act like a booster seat for the HDAM's. The surrounding components might be too tall, just a heads up


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> You may need to add a socket to act like a booster seat for the HDAM's. The surrounding components might be too tall, just a heads up


 

  Interesting, any recommendations from your side for the socket? Not pointed at you, but wouldn't it be pretty interesting to put small RAM heatsinks on the LT1364 with adhesive tape to keep the heat worries away? I know that OPAs are relatively small, but you could dremel the perfect size for them. Oh boy, the mod ideas just keep coming in for the D1..


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Interesting, any recommendations from your side for the socket? Not pointed at you, but wouldn't it be pretty interesting to put small RAM heatsinks on the LT1364 with adhesive tape to keep the heat worries away? I know that OPAs are relatively small, but you could dremel the perfect size for them. Oh boy, the mod ideas just keep coming in for the D1..


 

  
  I would suggest something like this:
http://media.digikey.com/photos/Aries/08-3518-10.jpg
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/297131-8-pin-solder-tail-dip-socket-08-3518-10.html
   
  I don't know if 1 or 2 would work but they're cheap enough and if you think of it, the extension leads for HDAM units use 2 sockets plus the socket on the PCB.
   
  You're also a little late to the heatsink party  I did it and I believe another member did as well:
  http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/website/audio/DSC05413.JPG
   
  Don't ask me if there's any benefit. I have no idea. I'm actually skeptical if the heatsink on the DAC (opamp close to the tube) is pulling in heat from the tube. What I did for mine is I cut a heatsink down to size, used a little Arctic Silver 5, then while the whole thing is under compression, I hotglued the heatsink to the opamp. I will say 1 thing positive about the mod; it's a lot easier to pull the opamps out  Another unnecessary mod would be a heatsink on the outside of the case:
  http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/website/audio/DSC05421.JPG
   
  I feel mine after a while and it gets warm so I know it's doing it's job. Same application method, AS5 and hotglue.


----------



## ninjikiran

Another way to fix the heat is to take out the tube if your not using it, or put a low power computer fan on top of the unit(one of those super quiet ones).  Set it over one vent as either an exaust or cooling unit.
   
  Either should work  well in this situation, since setting it on the cooling side would push outside air in the unit and theoretically push hot air out the other end.  Only problem would be dust bunnies and dirt forming aroudn the components much like an unfiltered computer case.  Exaust would pull out the hot air out without pushing outside dust in.


----------



## ujkozavlanje

yeah, that is probably the best way to do it.


----------



## reiserFS

Ladies and Gentlemen, I proudly present you the Tube Magic D1 "Skyline". Not finished yet since my Audio-gd package is still on the way. I'll post detailed information later.


----------



## sp70

Thats a great lookin' mod reiserFS! You'll have to post a how-to guide sometime. Hows the heat distribution on it? sp70.


----------



## Aldous

Hi hopefully someone in this thread can help but how does this work as a dac/amp for either hd650's or k701's? Sorry I know two very different types of phones


----------



## _Spanky_

Very sharp looking. How did you do the sides?


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





sp70 said:


> Thats a great lookin' mod reiserFS! You'll have to post a how-to guide sometime. Hows the heat distribution on it? sp70.


 
       Sorry for the delay, but I was heading out straight after I've finished the mod. It's a really simple mod that just requires a few screws and a dremel, I'll write up more information tonight. As for the heat, I'm currently testing it, but the initial impressions are way cooler than the stock casing, thanks to the bigger ventilation holes. I know that each hole is different in size a bit, but I'll fix that along with installing the Audio-gd HDAMs.
  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Very sharp looking. How did you do the sides?


 
      Measured the sides from the stock casing and exactly cut them according to their size (5,00cm x 16,00 cm). Drilled holes into the casing in order to install the sides with screws, that's literally everything to it.
   I'm sorry for the bad picture quality, but my better camera has just left the house for audio hardware funds *sigh*
   
_Edit1: I've been running the Skyline for around two hours and it gets barely warm, continuing to observe - this baby is still dead silent with the new casing by the way._


----------



## Kuze

Would anyone recommend this for HD650, i am upgrading from an Asus ST and looking for something under $500.


----------



## maverickronin

I like how it preforms with my 650s so far.  Only had them for about a week though.


----------



## reiserFS

Alright, I've had the Skyline on for around 6 hours yesterday and it got barely warm and obviously hot over the tube ventilation. The OPA section was slightly warm and much of the additional heat was produced by the big caps, note that this was with around 30 Celsius in my room. One last thing to note is that the metal casing got really hot when compared to the plexiglass mod. I'll write up detailed information and a how-to guide later today.


----------



## Ultrainferno

I received the Bravo after 1 week only  I
   
  Setup is: Cd player -> D1 - Bravo V2 -> DT990~600
   
  First impression: Build quality is what you can expect fot its price. Especially the power switch .It sounds way better then the D1 headphone out, even after the opamp change. nice bass (not too much), highs are ok, mids are so so. Don't forget that's with the stock chinese crap tube. Looking forward to listening to the RCA clear top tubes
   
  It's not so warm as my main amp and the bass can't be compared at all, but I'm very pleasantly surprised. I might, for some types of music, be going for the Bravo (with the RCAs) and not my main amp . Reason is that after having listened to the Fun Loving Criminals I find myself thinking my amp has too much bass and warmth. I'm in shock, lol.
   
  I'll report back after some more listening. To remember for now: For 21€ I paid on ebay, this is nice. See how it sounds this weekend, nnow its Holland - Brasil 
   
   
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> haha i'm also curious about bravo amp! i don't know how well it will perform. factoring into the shipping fees as well as potential tube swapping i do think it will cost me quite a lot too.
> 
> let me know how does it work with mav d1!


----------



## ninjikiran

http://www.mavaudio.com/base/audio-and-hi-fi/tube-magic-a1-hybrid-amplifier-is-almost-ready-for-pre-order/
   
  Quote: 





> From left to right: main power switch, volume control knob, audio input select knob, line-in socket, headphone amplifier socket
> 
> 
> From left to right: analog audio input, tube pre-amp output, right speaker connector, left speaker connector, power voltage switch, power cord socket
> ...


----------



## sp70

See here:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/500237/maverick-audio-tubemagic-a1-hybrid-amp-discussion-and-review-thread


----------



## reiserFS

Anyone else smelling another "Skyline" mod on the Tube Magic A1? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Here's what you need for the D1 mod v2.0:
   
  -50x50 cm plate of plexiglass with 2mm thickness
  -4 screws
  -a Dremel or a clone of one
  -patience, lot's of it, don't hurry this.
   
  1. Here are the exact sizes for the faceplate and case sides: 25x16cm | 2 x  5x16cm. If you don't have the tools for a clean cut, you can go to a specialized store that cuts it for you according to the sizes. Do not take off the protection foil, because we don't want scratches in it yet.
   
  2. Take off the old casing, since we won't need it anymore. Here's what you do next: Place the faceplate on top of the D1 and try to fit evenly on all sides, after that go ahead and drill holes into the plexiglass for the hex screws.
  Don't ever overtighten the screws, this will make the plexiglass bend a little and has chances to break off stuff on the edges.
   
  3. Everything fitting nicely? Great, but we're not done quite yet. The sides are a bit more complex, you need to drill holes into the case endings on each side and better be very careful with that, especially near the transformer. Make sure that the screws should move "smoothly" into the case and not loose, they won't be able to hold the sides otherwise.
   
  4. Fitting sides and faceplate? Check. Ventilation holes? Nope. Guess what comes next. Generally speaking, bigger ventilation holes let more heat out than smaller ones, but also have the chance to gather much more dust. In my first version of the mod I used big holes and the D1 was only warm to the touch, the second version features much more holes stretched across the PCB, but are way smaller and don't really change the heat distribution. The transformer section doesn't even feel warm at all after 6 hours. If you don't use the tube at all, you're probably better off drilling in some holes over the big caps and OPAs.
   
  5. Take off the protection foil, clean leftovers from the drilling, plug in your D1 and enjoy your "Skyline" mod. Not only does this mod transfer heat better, but it also allows you to use Audio-gd HDAMs in the headphone and DAC section.
   
  Be very careful when drilling plexiglass at high speed, it gets very hot and melts. If there's enough interest, I'll also do custom orders for the lazy ones.


----------



## _Spanky_

Haha, I'm going to pull out my old sheet of plexi for it.
   
  Check it out:
   

 D1 (DAC/Amp) Discussion and Review Thread D1 (DAC/Amp) Condensed FAQ and Info Thread A1 (Hybrid Amp) Discussion and Review Thread A1 (Hybrid Amp) Condensed FAQ and Info Thread


----------



## uelover

finally i see something!
   
  i do wonder though when connecting to active speaker, should I be using the pretube out from mav d1 or this amplifier?
  sounds like double preamping is cool. lol.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> http://www.mavaudio.com/base/audio-and-hi-fi/tube-magic-a1-hybrid-amplifier-is-almost-ready-for-pre-order/


----------



## ninjikiran

Probably stick with the D1, since I am assuming by active they are already amplified.  Someone else might be able to elaborate reasons why to, and why not to but as a power amp I don't think active speakers would need it.
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> finally i see something!
> 
> i do wonder though when connecting to active speaker, should I be using the pretube out from mav d1 or this amplifier?
> sounds like double preamping is cool. lol.


----------



## Ultrainferno

A D1 thing I was thinking of:
   
  Is it my mind that's playing tricks on me or is the sound quality of the D1 better when not using the Direct/volume control bypass?


----------



## uelover

hey Ultrainferno, care to elaborate a little more on the 'sound quality'?
   
  The resolution of the sound coming out from my D1 is higher when I use the volume bypass. However, it also suffers distortion.
  As of now, I have to make do with the volume control.
   
  I wonder if it is due to the technical restrictions of the hardware in D1 or is it that the sound amplification level is too high for the receiving system to process.
   
  Perhaps our dear Spanky could enlighten us. lol.
  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> A D1 thing I was thinking of:
> 
> Is it my mind that's playing tricks on me or is the sound quality of the D1 better when not using the Direct/volume control bypass?


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





uelover said:


> The resolution of the sound coming out from my D1 is higher when I use the volume bypass. However, it also suffers distortion.


 


 Care to elaborate on this? Are you using a different OPA? Mine doesn't distort at all when acting like a stand alone DAC with the "Direct" button.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Like I said, I could be amagining it, but the sound seems a little more laid back, warm and detailed without the direct.
  It is like with the direct all the sound has to go trough one door as fast and hard as possible, and without the direct they have this huge door where they can walk trough easyly at there own tempo. Sorry for the weird comparison, I'm not familiar with the english audiolanguage 
   
  But again, most likely I am amagining it


----------



## uelover

hey reiserFS,
   
  I've got the opa627 2X mono to dual opamp which i think is the compatible version. I've been using them for a few months now and as long as I keep the volume dial below 1 o'clock, everything will be fine.
   
  The distortion I experience now with the bypass button impressed is a clipping sound during the 'peaks' of the audio i play (regardless of cd/flac/dvd). i experience the same problem when I turn the volume knot to over the 1 o'clock. I'm using monoprice toslink so it can't be the cable. I am relying on my active speaker for the rest of the amplification needed to produce the sound of my desired level.
   
  It seems that nobody else is experiencing this issue. It might be that my active speaker is 'crap' and can't handle the high current output. I don't know. I am still searching for a tube headamp to pair with Maverick for HD650.
   
  I've the LT1364CN8 and LM4562NA on its way and I'll try out with them when I receive them.
   
  With the bypass button, will we be bypassing the opamp on the DAC unit?


----------



## cravenz

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


>


 

 looks sweet mate. I'm still in search of a desktop DAC, if I get this, hint hint, I might look you up, not cos' I'm lazy, but I just wouldn't have the tools nor am I a DIY person. Wait, maybe I'm just lazy


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





cravenz said:


> looks sweet mate. I'm still in search of a desktop DAC, if I get this, hint hint, I might look you up, not cos' I'm lazy, but I just wouldn't have the tools nor am I a DIY person. Wait, maybe I'm just lazy


 
     Sure thing, if you get one, just drop me a PM and we can work something out. I also do the mods with two Audio-gd HDAMs.


  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> hey reiserFS,
> 
> I've got the opa627 2X mono to dual opamp which i think is the compatible version. I've been using them for a few months now and as long as I keep the volume dial below 1 o'clock, everything will be fine.
> 
> ...


 

 You can't bypass the DAC OPA with the direct button, else you would not get any sound at all.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> You can't bypass the DAC OPA with the direct button, else you would not get any sound at all.


 

 I wish I could help more but I just don't know circuit design. From this point on, logic is speaking. If the above statement is true (I'm inclined to agree with it), then I see no reason why or how the direct button would change quality. We're talking enabling/disabling the volume pot's attenuation on the line. I guess it's possible for the pot to color the sound but add more detail? I'm not sure. I will comment more on this when I get the A1 amp.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> I wish I could help more but I just don't know circuit design. From this point on, logic is speaking. If the above statement is true (I'm inclined to agree with it), then I see no reason why or how the direct button would change quality. We're talking enabling/disabling the volume pot's attenuation on the line. I guess it's possible for the pot to color the sound but add more detail? I'm not sure. I will comment more on this when I get the A1 amp.


 

 Hmm I was thinking that with a full bypass, the DAC (tube + opa as well) will be pushing at full force all the amplified electrical signal for the receiving unit to process. In that sense, the sound might be 'faster' and more colored by the tube and opa unit on Mav D1 as the receiving unit need not rely much on its own amplification on the weak signal it receives otherwise should we turn the dial on the Mav D1 to a mere 10 o'clock.
   
  I guess if one is connecting his MavD1 to a decent amplifier, he might find that relying on the amplification on his amplifier unit might produce a different (better?/colored?) sound which he may like.
   
  reiserFS, I think your skyline mod will look much nicer with a modded transformer XD


----------



## _Spanky_

I already have preordered. I'm thinking the tube output design goes a something like this:
   
  Out of the DAC > Headphone Amp
                       > Direct Button (Enabled) > Tube > RCA Outputs
                       > Direct Button (Disabled) > Volume Pot > Tube > RCA Outputs
   
  If think the difference you're experiencing may be the volume pot coloring the music. Keep in mind, this is just my logic guessing, nothing based on facts


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> I already have preordered. I'm thinking the tube output design goes a something like this:
> 
> Out of the DAC > Headphone Amp
> > Direct Button (Enabled) > Tube > RCA Outputs
> ...


 

  Wait what, did you pre-order via mail? I don't see any given link on his site yet.


----------



## _Spanky_

Pre-ordering by mail??? Sorry but that's funny  Nah, I talk a lot with Ryan and consider him a friend. He's acknowledged my desire to have an A1 Amp and that's all I'll say. He said he expects the first units to ship on the 10th so I would imagine pre-ordering for the masses will open up pretty soon but I may be wrong.
   
  *EDIT*
  Ryan put up the product page for the A1 so I would be expecting pre-ordering to happen soon.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Preordering by mail??? Sorry but that's funny  Nah, I talk a lot with Ryan and consider him a friend. He's acknowledged my desire to have an A1 Amp and that's all I'll say. He said he expects the first units to ship on the 10th so I would imagine pre-ordering for the masses will open up pretty soon but I may be wrong.


 

 I actually forgot an "e" before the "mail", those nasty typos. Glad to hear that we can pre-order as well soon enough though.
   
  Edit:
  
  Yeah, just saw that as well.


----------



## rhythmdevils

Has anyone compared this to the Beresford TC-7520?  I can't read 107 pages....
   
  It's kind of weird that it has one tube pre-amp and one non-tube output.  And that both have variable volume.  Would be nice if they both were tubed, and only the pre-amp had variable volume control.  Or maybe I'm missing something? 
   
  I would love to hear my mackies with tubes though!


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





rhythmdevils said:


> It's kind of weird that it has one tube pre-amp and one non-tube output.  And that both have variable volume.  Would be nice if they both were tubed, and only the pre-amp had variable volume control.  Or maybe I'm missing something?


 

 Your first two sentences are correct. However, you can enable or disable the volume control on either tube or ss output via the "Direct" button.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> If think the difference you're experiencing may be the volume pot coloring the music. Keep in mind, this is just my logic guessing, nothing based on facts


 

 That's what I was meaning with my no sense making post about the direct switch


----------



## reiserFS

Small update on my "Skyline" mod: I'm going to receive the OPA-EARTH and SUN pretty soon and will install them by socket stacking. I also received quite some requests for the mod via PMs so far, many of them asking if I also install the said opamps.
  Yeah, I'll also order them for you and install them, they will be removed during the shipping phase though. I'm going to stock up on plexiglass and sockets, so I think I can mod the first A1 and D1 units in around 3 to 4 weeks.
   
  I honestly didn't expect that much feedback on the mod.


----------



## maverickronin

@Ultrainferno
   
  In my experience, it depends on what combination of opamp and/or tube you are using.  I have the LT1364 and 5670 windmill getter in mine right now, and the tube pre out clips like crazy with the "direct" button pressed.  It didn't with the base Chinese tube and stock opamp, or the LT1364 and the windmill getter.  I haven't tried the stock opamp and the windmill getter though.  I believe that different parts have different amounts of gain, and if the total gain is more than the board was designed to support, then it will clip.  I think that's why the "direct" button is there in the first place.


----------



## Mavwong

Good work on the casing mod. From my experience you might want to have a larger opening directly on top of the tube to keep the temp down as the new cover not a good heat conductor thus traping head inside case. If I were you I will add some vent at the side panel.

  
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Alright, I've had the Skyline on for around 6 hours yesterday and it got barely warm and obviously hot over the tube ventilation. The OPA section was slightly warm and much of the additional heat was produced by the big caps, note that this was with around 30 Celsius in my room. One last thing to note is that the metal casing got really hot when compared to the plexiglass mod. I'll write up detailed information and a how-to guide later today.


----------



## Mavwong

To be exact,
   
  Out of the DAC > Volume Pot -> Headphone Amp (opamp on the right)
                         > Direct Button (Enabled) -> gain stage (opamp on the center)
                                > SS RCA Outputs
                                > Tube stage -> Tube RCA output
                         > Direct Button (Disabled) > Volume Pot > gain stage (opamp on the center)
                                > SS RCA Output
                                > Tube stage -> Tube RCA Outputs

 If direct sound better, likely it's just because of cheap vol pot out of the path.
   

  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> I already have preordered. I'm thinking the tube output design goes a something like this:
> 
> Out of the DAC > Headphone Amp
> > Direct Button (Enabled) > Tube > RCA Outputs
> ...


----------



## _Spanky_

Mavwong, good explanation 
   
  reiserFS, did you order extension leads? I hope so because I'd like to know A. If it's possible to lay one down inside the stock shell and B. What kind of differences there are in the DAC vs LF353 and LT1364. The Earth is cheap enough, I would be interested in getting one for the DAC section.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





mavwong said:


> Good work on the casing mod. From my experience you might want to have a larger opening directly on top of the tube to keep the temp down as the new cover not a good heat conductor thus traping head inside case. If I were you I will add some vent at the side panel.


 
   I'll probably do that on the A1, I've had a temperature meter measure it and it's only hot around the tube section and slightly warm around the OPAs. Side vents will be added once I install the HDAMs. Thanks for the great feedback, really helps making this mod even better.


  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Mavwong, good explanation
> 
> reiserFS, did you order extension leads? I hope so because I'd like to know A. If it's possible to lay one down inside the stock shell and B. What kind of differences there are in the DAC vs LF353 and LT1364. The Earth is cheap enough, I would be interested in getting one for the DAC section.


 

 Spanky, I didn't order extension lead because I'm doing the socket stacking, though a mate of mine has two extension leads left - I'll see what I can do about A. Judging by the size of the HDAM though, it will probably fit right behind the AC input as shown earlier in this thread. As for B, I don't own a LF353 but instead several LT1364s. I was planning to install the Earth into the DAC section anyway and the Sun into the headphone amp section, I'll keep you posted for comparisons between the Earth and LT1364 as both are known to be natural sounding.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Spanky, I didn't order extension lead because I'm doing the socket stacking, though a mate of mine has two extension leads left - I'll see what I can do about A. Judging by the size of the HDAM though, it will probably fit right behind the AC input as shown earlier in this thread. As for B, I don't own a LF353 but instead several LT1364s. I was planning to install the Earth into the DAC section anyway and the Sun into the headphone amp section, I'll keep you posted for comparisons between the Earth and LT1364 as both are known to be natural sounding.


 

 You should have a LF353, they were the stock ones  I did some rough measuring a while back and mocked up a cardboard tube that I thought was the size of the HDAM but I measured wrong and gave up but I think it should fit by the transformer. I would be cautious though and try and add some EMI protection to the HDAM. I'm definitely interested to see what you come up with 
   
  I think I have a solution for the tube heat with plexiglass but I'm not going to share just yet 
   
  *EDIT*
  I was attempting to cut material for my case mod but the screw for the mandrel on my dremel broke so I have to get a new one which doesn't look like it's going to happen soon since I need cutting wheels anyway.
   
  My case mod teaser:
  http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/website/audio/mav_plexi/v2/DSC07190.JPG
   
  Also, I'm wondering if various people could get high-res pictures that include the whole inside of the D1 from a top-down view and also post your units serial number. I'm going to gather some info and compare them because I found one cap in the D1 that has been changed at least twice in different batches and in later ones it looks like it's being replaced with a WIMA cap:
  http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/head-fi/mav_condensed/Untitled-1.png


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> You should have a LF353, they were the stock ones  I did some rough measuring a while back and mocked up a cardboard tube that I thought was the size of the HDAM but I measured wrong and gave up but I think it should fit by the transformer. I would be cautious though and try and add some EMI protection to the HDAM. I'm definitely interested to see what you come up with
> 
> I think I have a solution for the tube heat with plexiglass but I'm not going to share just yet
> 
> ...


 

 Now that looks quite sweet! On another note: I got my Audio-gd OPA-Earth and Sun today, they don't fit in at all without socket stacking, so I'll have to wait until mine arrive. They're quite huge, so I guess they will stick out around 1-2cm with the stacking.
   
  Edit: You can ground the HDAM in the DAC section to the top right case screw, the HDAM in the AMP section to the bottom right case screw. The PCB screws are just out of range for the ground wires.


----------



## thearrow

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Also, I'm wondering if various people could get high-res pictures that include the whole inside of the D1 from a top-down view and also post your units serial number. I'm going to gather some info and compare them because I found one cap in the D1 that has been changed at least twice in different batches and in later ones it looks like it's being replaced with a WIMA cap:
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/head-fi/mav_condensed/Untitled-1.png


 

 Mine's the one on the left (with the blue cap) in that picture.
   
  There's also an identical one on the other side of that jack (not visible in the picture).
   
  Is the serial number the number on the sticker? I'm assuming, since that's the only number I can find......... Mine's 200912150078.


----------



## _Spanky_

O.o Mine's the one on the right and my serial is 200912150015 so presumably the same batch. Why would different caps be used in the same batch...


----------



## Ultrainferno

Mine is the one in the middle . 2010 batch


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Mine is the one in the middle . 2010 batch


 
  I'm going to second this.


----------



## _Spanky_

Wow Ultrainferno sent me an image and there's probably a dozen caps that have changed. I'm going to mark them and ask Ryan what happened.


----------



## Ultrainferno

if you need more pictures, just shout 
  Feel free to add it to the condensed faq


----------



## middachten

After following the discussion on this forum for a few weeks I decided to go for the D1. I've input from many of you to be very helpful. Thanks for that!
   
  I was looking for an amp/dac that could for the time being replace my TC-electronic Konnekt D24. I haven't read much about this device around here. For me it has been a reliable and high quality work horse in my private project studio. But since I wanted to start streaming audio to my main system in the living room, I've abused this DAC/amp for that.... I have a Philips NP2900 with the digital output connected to the DAC. The last few months I am using the Konnekt more and more in my studio/rehearsal room. And decided to move it back there.
   
  I believe that audio streaming on a real High-End level is only just starting to develop (I've heard the Naim Uniti in my system and wasn't impressed. So I want to wait some time until this technology gets more mature. And work with something on a significant lower budget in the mean while. 
  My specs: I wanted a simple black box with a volume control, a straightforward input selector, analog AND digital input and preferably a good headphone output to drive my AKG K271, Shure E3c and a few lesser headphone specimens lying around in my house. Oh yes, it would be great if it could drive my DUSON A10 poweramp and my STAX SRM-1 to
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Well, the D1 is 'just what the doctor prescribed' in terms of inputs/outputs/selection/volume control. But does it deliver the sound quality? 
   
  My music taste ranges from a broad spectrum of classical music (Bach to Strawinsky), Blues, Jazz, Rock and once in a while some straightforward pop music. Some albums I've always used for listening sessions are:
  - Jenifer Warnes - Famous Blue Raincoat
  - Sara K. - Hobo
  - Haitink/Ashkenazy - Brahms 2nd pianoconcerto on DECCA
  - Herreweghe - Bach Matthaus Passion on Harmonia Mundi
  - Roger Waters - Amused to Death
  - Pink Floyd - Delicate Sound of Thunder
  - (?) - Jazz at the Pawnshop 
  - Van Morrison - It's to late to stop now (live)
  (yes I know, Im getting old
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)
   
  I've mainly based this review on listening trough the following setup:
  NP2900(digital out) > D1 > DUSON A10 > Epos M22i
   
  My initial impressions (out of the box):
  A pleasant sounding dac-preamp that delivered smooth highs, fluid mids and reasonably good bass extention. But I found it to seriously lack depth and detail. The tube output gave a slightly more 'open' sound, but not really more detail in mid and high. The bass on the tube output was less focussed and tight.
  After a few days the mids improved a bit, they became more open an detailed. The bass seemed slightly more tight (best noticeable on the Roger Waters CD). On the tube output the difference was bigger and more apparent. There was a clear extention of the bass response and the midrange opened-up seriously. A much deeper and wider soundfield. But still I found details (in particular on the classical CD's) lacking. The good news was that I didn't find any clear flaw either (no boomy bass, no nasal mids, no shreeking HF).
  Compared to the Konnekt D24 It was an easy choice: the Konnekt is much better in terms of HF detail, soundstage and bass extention.
   
  After lots of reading on this forum I had become quite interested in experimenting with OpAmp rolling..... I had two options available for the line-out: OPA627 and OPA249. BTW I did the gain reduction mod imedeatly after I had played the first songs. I couldn't do more than 2-3 clicks and had some L-R balance problems in that range of the potmeter.
   
  After having played around with both OpAmps for at least a week I've come to the following conclusions compared to the original LF:
  OPA627: more open midrange, better soundstage and 'smooth' overall character
  OPA249: better bass extention and control, much better soundstage and more detailed mids and highs. More forward overall character without sounding harsh (great positioning of Jenifer Warnes and Sara K. 's voices).
  The difference in both cases was way more significant than the difference that burning-in made.
   
   
  The D1 did not have any problem driving my AKG and Shure head/ear-phones. Plenty of power available. The Stax was an entirely different story. I found out that I have been spoiled by the Wadia 860 that I use to own (I sold it 2 years ago to finance some pro-audio stuff for my studio....) The Stax is the most revealing piece of equipment in my house at this moment. And I found the combination with the D1 in its original shape uninspiring. After the upgrade with the OPA249 it became more acceptable. But I decided to move the Stax to my studio and wait until I've found a real high-end solution for audio streaming to my main system.
   
  Still, compared to the Konnekt I'm not entirely convinced. The midrange of the D1 is more fluid and open. The highs on the Konnekt are more detailed, without getting harsh. On the other hand, the D1 provides me with a much better usability for my system in the living room. So, for the time being, I'm a happy user of this DAC/Amp!
   
  PS: Its my first post on this forum. I'm not sure if I should post this review here, or on the main page for this product. Please let me know.
   
  Albert


----------



## uelover

hey middachten, I saw that you're using quite a good pair of speakers and so I thought that maybe you would want to know this a little more.
   
  Having owned the stock beijing tube, the NOS GE 5 stars 5670, Raytheon Getter 5670, as well as the Western Electric 396A, I can only say that the stock tube and the NOS GE do lack resolution and details in their sound on the tube out. The stock tube is a good start for those connecting the D1 to their low-fi/PCs as the DAC is better than most low-fi equipments and thus in general you would obtain an improvement in the SQ.
   
  However, the Raytheon Getter and the WE396A tube with LT1364 opamp on the DAC really fires up the sound in MavD1 and I really suggest you to try them since you're connecting D1 to a 'good' system.
   
  Regarding the headphone, I've been using the opa627 on both the DAC as well as the headphone for 6 months before finally making the switch to the highly touted LT1364+LM4562NA combination. Initially, opa627 removes the harshness in sound from the headphone out and it sounds almost too smooth and nice to be true. However, soon I was able to notice the loss of details in songs. Unsatisfied with my D1, I gave it a last chance by rolling the opamps (rolling the opamp is really cheap!) and the return of details to the songs I listen to was immediate. I felt as if I have found a gem in my D1 once more.
   
  I would say that the D1 with both its opamp and tube rolled is of a different class as the original stock D1. Getting the correct opamp and tube that befits your audio system is critcal. I can't really commend on the sound of opa249 since I have not tried it before. Nonetheless, I really hope that you would try out the WE396A and the LT1364+LM4562NA opamps and you will be astonished by the improvements you get for the relative little you spend.
   
  Have a good time with your D1 and I hope that you will soon learn to love it even more!


----------



## reiserFS

I just managed to get a pair of WE396 from eBay, looking forward to hear the difference between the GE and WE396.
   
  Edit: Before I get more PMs, the other tube from the pair is reserved for Spanky.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Danm you ReiserFS!  You'ld expect more from a European neighbour, but nooooo 
  Back to ebay it is, these tubes are hard(er) to find in europe for a good price


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Edit: Before I get more PMs, the other tube from the pair is reserved for Spanky.


 

 ROFL Win  Now the story of my life... I just gotta get some money together and remember... Bills first 
   
  *EDIT*
  Try here?
http://www.nostubestore.com/2010/03/western-electric-396a2c51.html


----------



## maverickronin

This thing certainly got me infected with tube-itis too.  Never thought I'd like tubes at all, but now I own a hybrid amp, am shopping for a pure tube amp, and have saved searches on ebay for all compatible tube types where I place $10-15 bids on anything I don't currently own and see what turns up on my doorstep.  I went from never have even seen one in person to owning 7 in a few months.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Would you rate the 396A above the Raytheon?
   
  And why are these so cheap: WE396A
   
  http://cgi.benl.ebay.be/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380151677912
   
  2.89$ compared to the 38$ on spanky's link. They do look different...


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Would you rate the 396A above the Raytheon?
> 
> And why are these so cheap: WE396A
> 
> ...


 

 The tubes that you linked are the GE ones.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Hah. That was pretty obvious actually, but still I missed it. Thanks


----------



## _Spanky_

ultrainferno said:


> Hah. That was pretty obvious actually, but still I missed it. Thanks







 Gotta be careful with the wording  The cheapest WE 396A I saw on eBay was $55 shipped.


----------



## reiserFS

Here we go, stacked sockets, Earth in DAC, Sun in amp. Will update every few minutes..
   
*Initial Impressions*
   
  The Earth distorts like hell when using the RCA out and amp out. This looks like a voltage issue. I'll have to either return to the stock OPA or the LT1364 when I receive my Stax set. Though, when using only the amp in the D1, I can go 19 ticks before it starts to distort, which is already loud on my K701. Dead silent, no background noise. Keep in mind that I don't like using audiophile terms that much, so bear with it.
   
  Update: Sun is running flawlessly everywhere, even when using the bypass button. This means that only the SUN is truly useable in the D1 as another user also reported distortion with the MOON. I'm going to put an order for another SUN right now.


----------



## reiserFS

*Installation*
   
  You need two DIP8 sockets for this ( one for each Sun HDAM ) and a custom case or tools to make space on the stock one. The installation of the HDAM itself is one of the easiest thing, you basically stack a socket onto the one on the board and insert your HDAM in that. Be sure to look for the half moon marking on the sockets and set them the right way. Connecting the ground wire results in a smoother sound signature, you can use the top right case screw for that.
   
  This is how mine turned out so far:


----------



## middachten

UElover,
   
  Thanks for your input. I was planning to do some testing with tubes. And would love report on that. But now its first time for a few weeks of summer holiday!
  BTW I havn't been playing around with consumer audio equipment for about 8 years. Before that I used to listen to Spectral, Avalon and Wadia. Perhaps I've become a bit spoiled and over-critical.
  My only components that are on that sort of level are my Stax Lambda and my Duson A10 poweramp...
   
  The ease of streaming audio and portable audio has made listen to music again. I think I'll soon be infected with upgraditis again. So, I decided to step in at a comfortable price level. And at this level I'm a more than happy user of the D1!


----------



## _Spanky_

Hmmm reiserFS. That sucks that the Earth can't be used. You had absolutely no problems with the Sun? It's the most expensive but is also supposed to be the most detailed. Post pictures when you can


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Hmmm reiserFS. That sucks that the Earth can't be used. You had absolutely no problems with the Sun? It's the most expensive but is also supposed to be the most detailed. Post pictures when you can


 

 This is how I had set it up before:
   


   
  Earth grounded to the top right screw, distorts like hell and isn't useable in both the DAC and amp section, the Sun is now in the DAC section working together with a LT1364CN8. I'm currently working on a mesh cover for the D1 as I'm not too happy with how the plexiglass transferred the heat. Yes, the Sun seems to have the right voltages as I didn't experience a problem with it.


----------



## reiserFS

Updated reserved post, posting more regarding sound tonight.


----------



## ninjikiran

Your going to put in two Suns?  Would actually be awesome of Ryan released a modded top peice(in the sheet metal) solely for larger opamps.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Your going to put in two Suns?  Would actually be awesome of Ryan released a modded top peice(in the sheet metal) solely for larger opamps.


 
  Yeah, I have another on the way.


----------



## _Spanky_

reiserFS, would you mind emailing Kingwa and asking him if he knows why the one circuit works but the other doesn't? I'm sure he can speculate as to the differences and why those differences would make it behave like that. I'll put your information in the FAQ, this is all very useful.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> reiserFS, would you mind emailing Kingwa and asking him if he knows why the one circuit works but the other doesn't? I'm sure he can speculate as to the differences and why those differences would make it behave like that. I'll put your information in the FAQ, this is all very useful.


 

 I'm already talking with Kingwa, haven't heard from him yet though. I'll keep you posted!


----------



## _Spanky_

reiserFS, I didn't see your mesh until just now. It's funny you did that because I have been working on the opposite and I think it's working out quite well:
   

   
  I just simply made a mesh skirting that is hotglued to the plexiglass so the whole thing comes off. I was debating whether or not to secure it to the side but I think it looks good. Once the A1 arrives (and after initial testing as well) I plan to measure in where the tubes are and cut a hole in the plexiglass to fit this:
   

   
  But that's down the road since my dremel mandrel broke and I need more cutting wheels. Also, while these mods may look nice, they kind of look awkward, I may just use the regular case and be happy with it.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> reiserFS, I didn't see your mesh until just now. It's funny you did that because I have been working on the opposite and I think it's working out quite well:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Yeah, was initially inspired from your idea, works very well for the heat. I'm going to cut a hole into the regular case today for the HDAM in order to see how well it looks.


----------



## reiserFS

I've burned in the Sun(DAC) and LT1364(Amp) combo for over 12 hours now, and let me just tell you that this baby is now on par with 500$ dacs. It beats my LD I+, rolls it into dust and throws it into the trash bin. The soundstage is so huge, detailed and 3D like that it just makes my K701s sing. For sure, this must be considered as one of the best mods in the 200$ range, making the D1 worth to challenge other DACs. I will put in another Sun into the amp section next week, detailed sound impressions will follow tonight though.


----------



## maverickronin

You've just about convinced me...but, the Audio GD website is just plain scary.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> You've just about convinced me...but, the Audio GD website is just plain scary.


 

 Just send them a mail that you'd like to order Dual OPA-Sun's, Kingwa is a great guy to deal with and has always been honest about the stuff he sells.


----------



## Ultrainferno

@ReiserFS & Spanky: Why not just make a cover that only shows the tube?
   
  To me that's the only exciting thing to look at


----------



## ninjikiran

The sun doesn't fit into the default maverick case though ya?
   
  So your using the Lt1364 on the D1 headphone output?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> The sun doesn't fit into the default maverick case though ya?
> 
> So your using the Lt1364 on the D1 headphone output?


 

 reiserFS and I talked in PM and he said that the HDAM would fit by the power transformer. I would highly recommend shielding it and grounding the shielding though. If it's a tight fit, the transformer can be moved about 1/4" to the left by just drilling 4 holes in the bottom of the case (look out for metal scrapings!).


----------



## ninjikiran

Hmm I don't have a drill unfortunately or the work space to use one.  Otherwise I would feel comfortable with just cutting out a nice hole to fit considering it is only sheet metal and easy to work with.
   
  As for grounding, does the mav have a ground circuit anywhere?
  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> reiserFS and I talked in PM and he said that the HDAM would fit by the power transformer. I would highly recommend shielding it and grounding the shielding though. If it's a tight fit, the transformer can be moved about 1/4" to the left by just drilling 4 holes in the bottom of the case (look out for metal scrapings!).


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Hmm I don't have a drill unfortunately or the work space to use one.  Otherwise I would feel comfortable with just cutting out a nice hole to fit considering it is only sheet metal and easy to work with.
> 
> As for grounding, does the mav have a ground circuit anywhere?


 
  I'm not sure if the Mav has a ground circuit somewhere, but you should be able to ground the HDAMs ground wire on either the PCB screws or the case screws. And yes, since my second Sun is still on the way, I'm currently using a LT1364CN8 in the headphone amp section.


----------



## ninjikiran

Think there is any possibility of squeezing that thing in without case mods?Only thing really stopping me from buying it.
   
  Otherwise I am willing to tryo ut the mesh as well even if the current case is better protection from the huge TV and computers next to it   Where did ya get the mesh?  And what kind of alloy or metal is it?
   
  Was checking this out
  http://www.twpinc.com/twpinc/control/product/~category_id=TWPCAT_11/~product_id=016X016C0110W36T
   
  Only problem with that there is a minimum purchase which makes it exuberant


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Think there is any possibility of squeezing that thing in without case mods?Only thing really stopping me from buying it.
> 
> Otherwise I am willing to tryo ut the mesh as well even if the current case is better protection from the huge TV and computers next to it   Where did ya get the mesh?  And what kind of alloy or metal is it?
> 
> ...


 
  Hard to fit one in without having to cut a hole into the case. Why not just cut one into the stock one if it offer better protection? As for the mesh, I've used a old table and cut out the mesh from that.


----------



## ninjikiran

Because I don't have the tools unfortunately.  Or perhaps I don't have the knowledge lol.  Regardless something will be figured out.
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Hard to fit one in without having to cut a hole into the case. Why not just cut one into the stock one if it offer better protection? As for the mesh, I've used a old table and cut out the mesh from that.


----------



## Eclecticos

These experiences echo mine with the HDAM's. I have tried them all in the DAC position, and the Moon in both positions. Only the Sun HDAM fails to distort at all volume levels. The Moon HDAM sounds really good at normal listening levels (say less than about 88-90 db in my livingroom), but distorts above those levels in the DAC position. It did not work at all in the HP slot. I must emphasize that the Moon HDAM sounds really, really good, until it distorts, though.
   
  The Sun HDAM in the DAC position is really nice, as well. Definitely more detail. I didn' think I'd like it when I read several reviews that mentioned things like "brighness," and other adjectives that sounded like it was tilted way forward in the HF range. I don't find it overly "bright" at all though, or even "analytical" (I know, silly HiFi term...).
   
  I have tried all the other, recommended op amps, and find all the HDAM's to be preferable in the DAC slot, but I found that I liked the stock op amp in the HP position. I suspect if the Sun works in the HP slot, I will vastly prefer that to any of the IC op amps.
   
  Alas, I only have one Sun, so I have not tried it in the HP position, yet. I hope to get up the gumption to move it over, soon (a measure of my contentment with it in the DAC spot!).
   
  Marc
  Airport>Maverick D1 (Sun HDAM/Stock Opamp in HP position)>Stock Allesandro Music Series Headphones/300B SE tube amp>Alpair 10 single-driver speakers in MarKen10 Enclosures.


----------



## maverickronin

All you need is a dremel and some free time.  I built a table with nothing but a dremel and dremel accessories once.
   
  That copper mesh looks pretty cool though.  Only problem is the minimum order.  Any volunteers to by 15 sq ft and parcel it out in $10 increments?


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





eclecticos said:


> These experiences echo mine with the HDAM's. I have tried them all in the DAC position, and the Moon in both positions. Only the Sun HDAM fails to distort at all volume levels. The Moon HDAM sounds really good at normal listening levels (say less than about 88-90 db in my livingroom), but distorts above those levels. I must emphasize that the Moon HDAM sounds really, really good, until it distorts, though.
> 
> The Sun HDAM in the DAC position is really nice, as well. Definitely more detail. I didn' think I'd like it when I read several reviews that mentioned things like "brighness," and other adjectives that sounded like it was tilted way forward in the HF range. I don't find it overly "bright" at all though, or even "analytical" (I know, silly HiFi term...).
> 
> ...


 

 Ah, so it was you with the Moon and Sun HDAM. I don't really find the Sun on the bright side as well, more like it overs a bit smoothness yet a huge and detailed soundstage with my K701 - not fatiguing at all. Interesting fact though, the LT1364 also distorts near max volume.


----------



## thearrow

My case mod:
   
  It's simple - I just dremelled a hole in the top of the case and attached some mesh I found around the house.
   
  Lets me see the tube and lets all the heat easily escape.
   




   
   




   
   
  I <3 my Mav


----------



## TheMG

Hi, i just ordered the d1 and i have some questions:
  1. Wich connection will be better, coax or usb?
  2. if i dont use the pre amp and use only the headphone connection, the tube wont work right?


----------



## _Spanky_

TheMG, coax will be better. Headphone output doesn't use the tube. The tube will still be active even if you don't use the preamp output.


----------



## ninjikiran

Yea Spanky you should probably remove any entries of 24/96khz over USB including the driver.
   
  The USB controller chip will NEVER allow it unfortunately.  Which in my opinion makes USB a last resort if you have other means.
   
  If you know nothing about computers or your sound card/drivers USB is plug and play and will probably net you better results than your mainboard spdif.
   
  At the same time if you have the cash a bit-matched transport like the X-Fi Prelude would be even better (~$200 sound card)  which means no need to set a "master sample rate"


----------



## _Spanky_

Yup, I'm planning a revision. I'm just being a little lazy lol. I don't know if I want to remove it or just set a warning stating that none of it is bit-perfect. The methods just allow 24/96.


----------



## ninjikiran

Probably would be best to nix the driver totally as it enables setting that could possibly degrade SQ if improperly set.  Don't know whats going on really~ Might be possible to create a custom inf one day just to name the maverick but keep the default USB driver in tact which blocks modes not supported by the controller chip.
   
   
  Woot, apparently this new screen I got is better shielded than I assumed it might be.  I don't get any distortion running with the case off. Anyone wanna quote me on a plexiglass covering with a a nice spot for an OPA?


----------



## reiserFS

Quote:


> Woot, apparently this new screen I got is better shielded than I assumed it might be.  I don't get any distortion running with the case off. Anyone wanna quote me on a plexiglass covering with a a nice spot for an OPA?


 
  Entire covering with the sides as well? If so, 7$, with two Sun's roughly  67$ excl. shipping.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





thearrow said:


> My case mod:
> 
> It's simple - I just dremelled a hole in the top of the case and attached some mesh I found around the house.
> 
> Lets me see the tube and lets all the heat easily escape.


 
   
  That's exactly what I want to do with it, now just find someone with the tools to do so...


----------



## Ultrainferno

How would you guys rate the 396A CBS black plate D-getter tubes and the 396A RCA black plate tubes with trip mica in comparison to the 5670 from WE?


----------



## reiserFS

*Installation*
   
  You need two DIP8 sockets for this ( one for each Sun HDAM ) and a custom case or tools to make space on the stock one. The installation of the HDAM itself is one of the easiest thing, you basically stack a socket onto the stock one on the board and insert your HDAM into it. Be sure to look for the half moon marking on the sockets and set them the right way.
   
  This is how mine turned out so far and is not available for order right now:
   



   



   
  Note: This is a comparison with the Sun(DAC) and LT1364(AMP) to the LD I+. This will be updated once I receive my second Sun.
   
*Sound*
   
  Alright, I've been telling you guys for a while now that I'd share my impressions with the mentioned combo, so here we go. Some of you might or might not know some of the artists I'm talking about, but I'll try to mention a few points about them as well. Additionally, this is my first time writing a sound impression, so keep that in mind. Burn-in is at 45 hours.
   
_Cans: K701 - directly driven by the headphone amp_
_Input: Optical out via Auzen Bravura 7.1_
Source: Fb2k TTA/APE/FLAC/TAK WASAPI
   
_*LIA - My Soul, Your Beats!*_
  LIA, a Japanese female vocal artist, known for doing famous opening and endings for visual novels. My Soul, Your Beats! heavily uses various instruments, among them a piano that goes with the song until the end. This is where the combo starts to shine, compared to the LD I+, I was immediately absorbed into the large soundstage it offers. Pinpointing and seperating the instruments, tight detailed bass and a decay that I could never have dreamed of, this combo sure is fun and makes my K701 entirely a different set of cans.
   
_*Tainaka Sachi - disillusion -2010-*_
  Tainaka Sachi, best known for lending her voice in the Fate/Stay Night Opening. She reaches up to 3 Octaves. This song is a fast and at times slow one that offers a huge soundstage once properly amped, and the D1 just does exactly that. Everything I throw at it gets reproduced so nicely that I'm still in progress to listen through my entire music collection once again, and it's not small with near over 40k files. When you can hear the strings of the guitars in a 3D like soundstage, you know that your cans are happy.
   
_*FictionJunction YUUKA - nowhere*_
  I've had many problems with this song in the past with the LD I+, no matter which tube or OPA I rolled in, the song itself was so complex that it just couldn't keep up. The D1 once again manages to surprise me here, reproducing like it was a piece of cake. It's amazing to see what a 199$ unit can transform to when modded to hell and back. You'll love this mod so much that you'd take it with you into your deathbed without even hesitating.
   
_*Yuki Kajiura - inca rose*_
  A legendary female composer and music producer. I've always felt that the LD I+ just didn't do Yuki Kajura enough justice, this changed with the aforementioned combo . Lean yourself back, close your eyes and be amazed how intimating and detailed this mod sounds. I did, and once noticed, I was already through 3 of her albums and 2 hours had passed.
   
  I could go on with more than 20 songs, but I believe you'll see my impressions by now. This little baby just transformed into a, I dare to say, 600$ unit.
   
  TL;DR: Get a D1 used or new, mod the hell out of it and you won't have to change your rig setup for a while. Heck, you even save money on the amp.
   
   
*Orders*
   
  I'm now taking orders for this mod if you're too lazy to do it yourself or don't have the tools, keep in mind that I'm offering my free time for you so I'll have to charge additonal 20$.
   
_Skyline Rev.2 - Plexiglass _
  3 x sheets of Plexiglass - 7$
  4 x screws - 1$
  2 x DIP8 sockets - 1$
  2 x Sun HDAM - $77.5 incl. shipping from Audio-gd
  Installation Manual: 0$
  Payment for me - 20$
   
  Options: Grounding the HDAM? Gives smoothness. Yes/No - Free
                Burning in the HDAM - Yes/No - Free
               LT1364CN8 in amp section - Yes/No - 10$
               Let your D1 get modded by my very self- Yes/No/ - You need to ship your unit to me or include the total price for a new stock one.
   
  Shipping: Please send me a PM so that I can check shipping cost to your country. Free shipping within Germany.
   
  Total - 106$ excl. shipping
   
*Loaner*
   
  Would you guys be interested in a loaner unit?
   
  Edit1: Added various things for convenience reasons.


----------



## _Spanky_

I was looking at the Audio-GD HDAM's and it looks like the SUN uses the least amount of amps, maybe that's why it doesn't clip?
   
  Nice post reiserFS, I'm sure you'll have some orders soon


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> I was looking at the Audio-GD HDAM's and it looks like the SUN uses the least amount of amps, maybe that's why it doesn't clip?
> 
> Nice post reiserFS, I'm sure you'll have some orders soon


 
  Did you compare it to the LT1364CN8 yet? It also clips near max volume.


----------



## ninjikiran

As for Earth not working properly it supposedly needs a crazy power supply, if you guys really wanna go super mod crazy  You could try finding a new PSU that could work into the mav.


----------



## _Spanky_

I believe the LT1364 uses a little more power than the SUN. I don't think another power supply would help make a difference when we're talking less than 10mA. I what needs to be changed is the power going to the chip like from the voltage regulators or something.


----------



## ninjikiran

That much I understand, but it is supposedly a power issue so somethings going on.  I know the supply itself can handle that kind of load.


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea, I don't know. To be honest I've never experienced clipping with the LT1364. I've used the direct button both on and off with the volume at high (without headphones plugged in ) out to my speakers and never had an issue.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Yea, I don't know. To be honest I've never experienced clipping with the LT1364. I've used the direct button both on and off with the volume at high (without headphones plugged in ) out to my speakers and never had an issue.


 
  Oddly, the LT1364 only distorts in the amp section.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Oddly, the LT1364 only distorts in the amp section.


 

 Ah, I thought you meant the DAC section. I haven't used it in the amp section  Can anyone else confirm this? I'll add it to the FAQ.


----------



## reiserFS

I have just received my second HDAM for the amp section, unfortunately though, I need to wait until my Darth Beyer V2 gets here since I've traded it with the K701


----------



## Ultrainferno

701 vs Darths? Now that's a change


----------



## ninjikiran

always wondered how the darth beyers compared to my DT770pro, some time in september I might see if I can give this guy my 250ohm dt770pro and have him turn it into a darth beyer


----------



## customNuts

Hi guys,
  Can ayone tell me how this maverick would fair against the beresford caiman or the audio-gd FUN with regards to the headphone out ie DAC+AMP?
  I love a musical/warm sound signature with great bass and lots of slam. I need to buy somthing soon and need help!
  Maybe there is something else you guys could recommend? up to $500?


----------



## ninjikiran

I can't tell you how it fairs against either unit, but you can change the sound signature on the maverick quite easily in different kinds of ways using different opamps/hdams and if you enjoy more extreme coloration the Tube output is always there but it'll probably cost you another XXX amount of money on an amp .  The Audio GD FUN is even more customizable but infinitely more expensive if you really get into deep customization with it, it has a few built in "sound modes" as well that you can switch around.
   
  The Mav will easily do what you need it to do without the fuss.  So it is up to you really and how far you want to take it.
   
  As per vanilla vs vanilla DAC/AMP comparisons as I said above I never heard the audio-gd fun or that other unit but people have raved about the DAC on the maverick saying its very HQ but on the flip side people have called the amp mediocre by comparison to others.
  
  Quote: 





customnuts said:


> Hi guys,
> Can ayone tell me how this maverick would fair against the beresford caiman or the audio-gd FUN with regards to the headphone out ie DAC+AMP?
> I love a musical/warm sound signature with great bass and lots of slam. I need to buy somthing soon and need help!
> Maybe there is something else you guys could recommend? up to $500?


----------



## _Spanky_

I'll echo what ninjikiran said. For about $270, you can get a Maverick D1 with 2 SUN HDAM units and according to reiserFS, that changes the unit drastically and makes it sound like a $500-$600 unit. For $30 or so, I plan to get a HDAM myself, it's a cheap upgrade if it does THAT much.
   
  I also can't tell you the comparison between the units but I will tell you that I'm perfectly content with the D1 and have no buyers remorse.


----------



## reiserFS

The Sun itself is natural and a bit musical sounding but focuses on reproducing the details and soundstage as closely as possible. Grounding the Sun gives you smoothness / warmth while loosing some detail. I'd say that the upgraded D1 can definitely compete with units in the 500$ range now. Replacing the caps and resistors will probably make it sound even better (someone already did this in the thread).


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





mavwong said:


> I currently using JW WE396A, previously using Windmill getter Raytheon.
> 
> Raytheon to me is smooth, airy high, but lack weight in mid/mid bass and bass extension. (take note I have a heavily mod D1, with LM4562 in both stage and tube out is feed to the hp amp of d1, driving apsv3 cabled HD600)
> 
> ...


 
  Any chance you could name every cap that was used?


----------



## customNuts

Thanks guys, this is very helpful. Do you guys know if i can change the HDAM myself without soldering or does it require soldering etc? What about using the tube output to headphone amp (I presume this needs soldering.)
  ANy comparisons to the beresford Caiman??


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





customnuts said:


> Thanks guys, this is very helpful. Do you guys know if i can change the HDAM myself without soldering or does it require soldering etc? What about using the tube output to headphone amp (I presume this needs soldering.)
> ANy comparisons to the beresford Caiman??


 

 You need an allen wrench and phillips screw driver to open the case. After that, you pull out the old opamp with needle nose pliers (be careful) and install what you want. You WILL need extension leads and it's guessed that an HDAM can fit next to the transformer (I highly recommend electrically shielding the HDAM as well as adding a layer of foil or something to help with EMI/RFI since it will pretty much sit on the transformer).
   
  For tube output, you simply use the RCA jacks in the back  Pretty simple.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Any chance you could name every cap that was used?


 

 Woah, yea! and what location you put them in? That also looks like a new volume pot, what make/model is it and how does it compare?


----------



## customNuts

Thanks spanky. With the tube output I was talking about re-directing the tube output to the internal headphone amp, not connecting an external amp to the rca jacks. Do you know how this is done and does it need soldering??


----------



## _Spanky_

As stated in the FAQ, you do not want to connect headphones directly to the tube output. So the only way to do it internally would be to somehow cut the signal going to the headphone amp section and running wires from the RCA terminals inside and routing them to the headphone amp. I don't know if this is electrically possible nor recommended. I think the best would be to use the tube output with a tube amp (which is what the new A1 accomplishes).


----------



## customNuts

Is the HDAM just a opamp like OPA627 or OPA2132? Sounds like the HDAM sun or moon would be the best - are they clearly better than the mention OPAMP's?
  If value for money is taken out of it - Do you guys  still think the Maverick is better than the Audio-gd FUN or beresford Caiman for my tastes?


----------



## _Spanky_

HDAM's are opamp replacements. Opamps used to be discrete components (resistors, caps, etc...) but with the miracle of new technology, we're able to shrink it down into an opamp but that's not great for audio so we have the HDAM. Only the SUN model is reported to work with the D1, the others clip. I haven't tried HDAM's myself but a lot of people say they're great and better than the OPA627.
   
  I can't honestly answer your second question


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Woah, yea! and what location you put them in? That also looks like a new volume pot, what make/model is it and how does it compare?


 
  I know that the pot's a ALPS one, but I can't find out the ratings and names of the caps.


----------



## reiserFS

I'm now running two Sun's in the D1, working beautifully. Trying the amp with my pair of Darth Beyers V2 right now and let me just tell me your initial impression, you thought these cans lacked detail and only focused on bass? You and I were so wrong, so wrong. These cans amaze me, a detailed soundstage with smooth mids and highs and a great bottom end, fire up some live metal or rock concert and you'll start headbanging within seconds. Sure, they still have a lot of bass, but damn, do they sound good. I don't have the ground wire connected to the case yet, but I plan to do so later.
   
  Volume needed to drive these with the Sun? Not even 7 clicks on the pot for a nice level.
   
  On another note: The first Skyline kits will leave my house on Monday morning.


----------



## ninjikiran

Just thought I would say you only need a single SUN unit if you plan on using the built in headphone amp.  According to Ryan only that opamp gets used.  The other opamp is used on the RCA outputs only.


----------



## mythless

I am quite intrigued by the Maverick, tube/solid state hybrid amp, with the ability to swap out tubes and HDAMs, and the overall flexibility of the input and output make the Maverick quite a stellar budget entry amp/dac.


----------



## ninjikiran

The HDAM's need a little case modding to fit in properly(might be able to use a DIp8 extension ribbon but I wouldn't trust laying anything electronic on sheet metal or circuit board) but otherwise yea this unit is very flexible at a price that won't destroy your wallet.
   
  An Alternative to case moding though would be attaching that extension ribbon to one of the exhaust vents, might have to chop the vents up a little but considering its sheet metal you don't need power tools to remove a strip or two but it would make life easier.  Which would be cheaper but I personally went with the full body because Reiser is awesome and nothing is geekier than seeing the inside of the case .
   
  Now a mod I can do in my small apt is that volume pot, if replacing the volume pot improves the d1 I am all game.
   
  They are $3/each
   

  
  Quote: 





mythless said:


> I am quite intrigued by the Maverick, tube/solid state hybrid amp, with the ability to swap out tubes and HDAMs, and the overall flexibility of the input and output make the Maverick quite a stellar budget entry amp/dac.


----------



## mythless

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> The HDAM's need a little case modding to fit in properly(might be able to use a DIp8 extension ribbon but I wouldn't trust laying anything electronic on sheet metal or circuit board) but otherwise yea this unit is very flexible at a price that won't destroy your wallet.
> 
> An Alternative to case moding though would be attaching that extension ribbon to one of the exhaust vents.  Which would be cheaper but I personally went with the full body because Reiser is awesome and nothing is geekier than seeing the inside of the case


 
   
  Oh, I will have to take a look at that later.  I'm kinda glad I continued my research on a nice but yet powerful entry DAC/Amp, otherwise I might have gotten something much different.  And, finally I can use this optical out on my X-Fi usb and cables that haven't been touched for years!  Now, I know the Maverick is a dac/amp/pre-amp, is it possible to use it as a separate amp, dac or preamp, similar to the Audio-GD?  I don't remember reading on the condensed FAQ.  As well, the amp (not just pre-amp) is a hybrid too, right?
   
  Haha, I'm slowly trying to read through all the pages to get all the info, but a nice short, and direct reply would be most kind.


----------



## ninjikiran

Theres how it goes,
   
  The RCA outputs are solely DAC outputs, meaning you can connect them to a separate amp or active/powered speakers.
   
  So combinations are
   
  Digital Input -------> DAC --------> Solid State RCA output -------> External Amp/Speakers
  Digital Input ------> DAC ---------> Solid State tube flavored RCA output ---------> External Amp/Speakers
  Digital Input ------> DAC ---------> Solid State headphone Amplifier
  Analog Input ------> Preamp/Passthru -------> Solid State Headphone Amplifier
  Analog Input ------> Preamp/Passthru -------> Either RCA outputs
   
  Might be using the word passthru wrong but you get the picture since its obviously not going to re-convert an analog signal to analog.
   
  Then you have the audio pathway which is in the FAQ and can explain it better than I could.  But when using the analog outputs you do have the option of having the device completely skip the volume control pot otherwise known as the "Direct" button.
   
  The tube pre-out  is pretty strong, while its supposedly too hot to plug headphones in directly it does work quite loudly.  The gain was tweaked so I can't really comment on some other nuances,  my unit is a first generation D1.  The second generation units have a gain mod(I think the only mod) which makes lower impedence/higher sensitivity headphones work better without static.
  Quote: 





mythless said:


> Oh, I will have to take a look at that later.  I'm kinda glad I continued my research on a nice but yet powerful entry DAC/Amp, otherwise I might have gotten something much different.  And, finally I can use this optical out on my X-Fi usb and cables that haven't been touched for years!  Now, I know the Maverick is a dac/amp/pre-amp, is it possible to use it as a separate amp, dac or preamp, similar to the Audio-GD?  I don't remember reading on the condensed FAQ.  As well, the amp (not just pre-amp) is a hybrid too, right?
> 
> Haha, I'm slowly trying to read through all the pages to get all the info, but a nice short, and direct reply would be most kind.


----------



## mythless

^^
   
  Ok, cool, thanks for the info, I kinda imaged that from the picture.
   
  That's kinda neat that you can choose which RCA output you want for another amp, either tube/hybrid and solid state.  I guess the A1 will take care of the tube flavor headphone input (which I am assuming). 
   
  Too bad there isn't a real gain switch, anyone have any experience using IEMs with the Maverick?  I know most people wouldn't use IEMs with a more desktop amp, but just out of curiosity to see the Maverick's flexibility.  Unless it's one of those self adjusting gain thingy.  But, overall it does look like a solid product!


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





mythless said:


> Too bad there isn't a real gain switch, anyone have any experience using IEMs with the Maverick?  I know most people wouldn't use IEMs with a more desktop amp, but just out of curiosity to see the Maverick's flexibility.  Unless it's one of those self adjusting gain thingy.  But, overall it does look like a solid product!


 

 It works great with my SE530s.  There's almost no hiss at all.  You don't get a whole lot of room to play with on the volume dial, though it doesn't matter much since the channels perfectly balanced.


----------



## mythless

^^ good to know 
   
  I'm also very curious about their A1 amp, and how much improvement the HO would be on the A1 over the D1.  Maybe a combo deal discount??


----------



## ninjikiran

I don't know about internals and what is changed between this amp and the D1 but I  can tell you what makes it different.
   
  For one it is a pure tube amp, meaning it is in no way a solid state amp.  Secondly it double as a power amp so you can reliably power your speakers through the device as well.
   
  If you connect the A1 to the D1 I would suggest the normal RCA outputs or you'll send tube flavored solid state sound through more tubes which might not be something you want to do.
   
   
  As for gain switching its possible but requires you to custom mod it and theres different ways to get that custom gain by modding a hard switch or just converting all the gain resistors into plugs you can swap in and out.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> If you connect the A1 to the D1 I would suggest the normal RCA outputs or you'll send tube flavored solid state sound through more tubes which might not be something you want to do.


 

 I couldn't complain with my D1 connected to the LD I+ via the tube RCA out, added a bit more detail and warmth.


----------



## ninjikiran

Perhaps, but it still might be a bit overkill for some.  So how do the electrostatics compare to the Darth Beyers?  I have had my eye on some dark beyers for a long time.  Love my 770pro
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> I couldn't complain with my D1 connected to the LD I+ via the tube RCA out, added a bit more detail and warmth.


----------



## _Spanky_

Unless you use a crappy tube, I don't see how it would be a problem. It would allow you to further tweak the sound style which I think everybody is in favor of. But, there's also solid state output. The flexibility of the D1 is great


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Perhaps, but it still might be a bit overkill for some.  So how do the electrostatics compare to the Darth Beyers?  I have had my eye on some dark beyers for a long time.  Love my 770pro


 
  The SR-202 are in an entirely different league and miles ahead, you just can't compare them to dynamics like the Darth's. The Darth's are really fun cans and have huge amounts of bass that will make your ears shake (if you prefer to do so), I already love them for my trance / hardcore / techno collection, been listening since 6 hours. They seal like hell, I can barely make out my PC. I also had a chance to look inside the cup, because one came off during transportation, there's lots of dampening going on in there.


----------



## ninjikiran

They are priced quite well to for ear speakers I'll have to check them out one day if they still exist.  The Darth Beyers are not too far from my 770pro in sound signature based on what I have read they just look pretty and make slight changes.
  
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> The SR-202 are in an entirely different league and miles ahead, you just can't compare them to dynamics like the Darth's. The Darth's are really fun cans and have huge amounts of bass that will make your ears shake (if you prefer to do so), I already love them for my trance / hardcore / techno collection, been listening since 6 hours. They seal like hell, I can barely make out my PC. I also had a chance to look inside the cup, because one came off during transportation, there's lots of dampening going on in there.


----------



## customNuts

has anyone compared the darth-beyers to dt990 premium? I was thinking of getting one or the other.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





customnuts said:


> has anyone compared the darth-beyers to dt990 premium? I was thinking of getting one or the other.


 
  They're open and the Darth's are closed, so naturally they sound totally different from each other.


----------



## customNuts

Apart from the fact that there open vs closed - do you think the darths are a significant upgrade in sound quality over the dt990's?


----------



## ninjikiran

They are not an upgrade nor are they a downgrade, they are just different.  The Beyers/DT770 are going to have more bass, the DT990's are open thus sound more spatial and speaker like.
   
  The closed beyers trap more sound in while blocking sound from penetrating in.  Thus in a noisy noisy environment the benefits of having open headphones are negated, where in a silent environment the open headphones usually have the sound advantage.
   
  that is basically it in a nut shell, I couldn't go into the specifics without actually owning a pair of open cans.  At the same time the darth beyers are slightly different from my DT770's but still retain very similar properties.
  Quote: 





customnuts said:


> Apart from the fact that there open vs closed - do you think the darths are a significant upgrade in sound quality over the dt990's?


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> They are not an upgrade nor are they a downgrade, they are just different.  The Beyers/DT770 are going to have more bass, the DT990's are open thus sound more spatial and speaker like.


 

 While the Darths are renowned for their bass, the 990s have tons as well.  More than a good deal of closed 'phones.  Probably not the Darths though.


----------



## ninjikiran

Well all headphones are built for different purposes but there is supposedly less variation between  the DT770/880/990.  Of course they all sound different and have different internals they were all built from the same brain child idea if that makes any sense.
   
  Closed/Semi-Open/Open
  
  Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> While the Darths are renowned for their bass, the 990s have tons as well.  More than a good deal of closed 'phones.  Probably not the Darths though.


----------



## Yamnick

Anyone tried D1 with Pioneer cans ? I just bought SE-M10R (I need closed cans for nights and out), and I haven't any idea how that combination can sound ?
  Also I changed both OPAMPs in my D1 to LM4562NA - for me is much better sound than the original LF353N (more crispy, detailed, better vocals, not so boomy - in my Goldrings DR150), I think next step will be HDAM Moon... 
  Anyone can link here site where I can buy them (In Europe if it's possible) ?
  Regards.
  Y.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





yamnick said:


> I think next step will be HDAM Moon...


 

 No. Read the FAQ or the last couple pages to find out why.
   
  I can't comment on the Pioneer cans. If you do buy the only HDAM that works with the D1, you can buy them from Kingwa, he ships internationally.


----------



## customNuts

Hey guys, I took he plunge and bought a Mav D1 with the NOS tube upgrade. Wanted to buy an A1 amp also but theyare not available in Ausse land yet. Maybe I'll ge an EF5. (what do u think?)
  @ReiserFS & Spanky - I want to do your skyline Mod with the Plexy glass & the HDAM but I have never done any mods before. Do either of you sell the parts for the mod -espeacially the plexy glass with heat holes/vents??
  Also I want to learn how to solder so I can do the caps too. Can you guys recommend how I should start this DIY adventure? ie what solder gear to buy and how to learn how to solder etc?
  I really appreaciate any help as I don't have anyone down here to show me.


----------



## _Spanky_

The A1 is only available to 1 person right now and that's Ryan 
   
  ReiserFS sells his mod but you must assemble it, shoot him a PM. Getting into DIY... I'm not there but I dabble with soldering and cable making and can tell you a few things. Buy a cheapie soldering iron so you can hone your skills without using expensive equipment. IMO, the best solder to buy is WBT Silver Lead-Free. Flux is key but only use it in a well-ventilated area, preferably outside. Aside from that, I'll tell you that it was a pain in the ass pulling the D1's PCB out and I don't look forward to doing it again


----------



## Yamnick

_Spanky_
   
  OK, I see where's problem with Moon, thanks for that & for Kingwa


----------



## customNuts

Thanks spankmachine.


----------



## reiserFS

As already written via PM, yes, I sell my mod to fellow Head-Fi members. I've completed the fourth revision of the mod this weekend and ninjikiran will be the first to get it if he likes it. Ventilation holes across the entire faceplate and lockable HDAM holes with mesh, doesn't that sound sexy?
   
  Edit: All orders that I've received so far will be shipped tomorrow, ninjikiran's order is awaiting approval.
  Edit2: all orders packed and ready to ship


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





yamnick said:


> _Spanky_
> 
> OK, I see where's problem with Moon, thanks for that & for Kingwa


 
       Quote:


customnuts said:


> Thanks spankmachine.


 


 No problem, glad I can help


----------



## ninjikiran

yea I am getting the plexi and some spare parts which are best ordered through reiser to save on shipping costs.  Can't wait to get it  my OPA-Sun is waiting for it.


----------



## customNuts

Hey guys, got the Mav D1 today. I must say, after a few hitches, I am pretty impressed. My Friend next door has the Zero OPA627 @usb so I had something to compare it with.
   
  I have a few questions about the hitches. Firstly I thought the D1 had alot of gain and gain reduction was a good mod to do. Well mine does not have too much gain. In fact it might only just have enough. It is supposed to be too loud at 10 o'clock with hard to drive cans isn't it? Well I have it at 2pm easily with my denon LA-2000. So maybe they changed it?
  Also the direct button which changes the line out from pre-amp to line level is unusable with my denon stereo speaker amp. When pressed, the SQ drops big time. Like their is too much gain on the line out or something. Lots of distortion at any volume. Anyway when I tried the line level line out on my Graham Slee Voyager it was fine. Maybe my denon amp doesn't like a very strong signal. Also, when I turn on/off my denon amp (only connected to D1 by rca) it resets the D1??  All in all their probably just quirks but please let me know if they make sense to anyone.
   
  Its alot more detailed than the Zero. MUCH better mids and highs but a little less slam. Zero is Forward with average/normal soundstage. D1 has really good sound stage to my ears. 
  I like the D1 alot more and I love slam. Its basically a more refined, relaxing listen that still delivers in every department. Its also more picky with rips - delivering beautifully on lossless.
  Anyway, it needs burn in - already improving (esp. on tube) after just 7 hours.


----------



## _Spanky_

The gain was changed a couple months ago and all the ones selling have the gain reduced by 40% I believe.
   
  What do you mean it resets the D1? The D1 "clicks" whenever the sample rate is changed or a digital signal is started/stopped. This is probably what you're hearing. I like this feature as it lets you know when you're getting the sample rate across properly (key point in bit-perfect).
   
  It's good to see you prefer it over the Zero, there's only been 1 or 2 people to compare the two units before.


----------



## nalsur

Hello. Having the D1 for some time now I decided to try some opamp switching. Ordered the LT1364CN8 and LM4562NA. First I changed the dac part with LT1364CN8 - no problems. But when I put the LM4562NA on the amp side - the sound became jittery, clipping or whatever is it called (started making some *puk* *puk* noises). I haven't read the whole tread, but anyone with the same problem? Is the LM4562NA defect or something else is wrong?


----------



## maverickronin

Didn't have that problem with mine.  Maybe its defective or got static zapped or something.


----------



## _Spanky_

I don't think anyone has had any issue with the LM4562 chip. I doubt something is wrong with your D1 and I also doubt something is wrong with the chip unless it got a static discharge. Try re-seating it? Maybe bend the pins inwards so they have more pressure when you insert it?


----------



## ninjikiran

If the amp section is jittery and clippy, and awkward or working on one  side pop the case off entirely.  Make sure its seated properly and test.
   
  If it doesn't work make sure all the connections on the main board(the removeable ones) are fully connected.  I had a problem recently where closing the case would do something to those wires that would make the mav go on the fritz. With the case opened I gently pushed them down with a song playing and made sure all the connections were solid and stable.  Then I put the case back on slowly and haven't had any problems.  I know my response is kind of vague, but the reasoning behind it was unknown for me, just telling you what I did.


----------



## Yamnick

Hey
  I have LM4562NA in both section (dac & amp), and I haven't problems like You, and I don't heard along all thread about similar problems with that OPAMP (it's almost perfect for application in D1 I think).
   
   Quote:


nalsur said:


> Hello. Having the D1 for some time now I decided to try some opamp switching. Ordered the LT1364CN8 and LM4562NA. First I changed the dac part with LT1364CN8 - no problems. But when I put the LM4562NA on the amp side - the sound became jittery, clipping or whatever is it called (started making some *puk* *puk* noises). I haven't read the whole tread, but anyone with the same problem? Is the LM4562NA defect or something else is wrong?


----------



## Ultrainferno

yeah, no problems whatsoever. Sorry to hear you have
  Just try reinstalling it as suggested above


----------



## customNuts

Thanks Spankman! Yes it 'clicks' as though I have disconected the usb.
  Well thats good about the Gain then - wont have to do the mod.
  If not many people have compared the D1 and Zero then I might post a few more notes later if others are interested. A mini reveiw i guess.
  I'm looking forward to the HDAM - Sun. How does it change the sound sig compared to stock opamps??


----------



## nalsur

Thanks for all the replies, guys. I've already tried reinserting, bending the pins and so on, but no change. It's strange because when I swap them - the clipping disappear.Also - when I increase the volume - the clipping become more apparent. I'll play a little bit more and if I find something - I'll write.


----------



## _Spanky_

No problem CustomNuts, I'm always happy if I can help someone 
   
  nalsur, where are you located? I have 4 spare LM4562 chips and I could send you a tested one for like $3 for shipping if you want.


----------



## ninjikiran

isn't the Sun HDAM supposed to have an LED on it?  I read online about it and even the picture of it shows something LED shaped that I don't see on my piece.
   
  edit nevermind: I got a response which might help out others who search on the internet
   
  We are getting the Sun v3 which has no LED's. 
   
  Quote: 





> Dear Ruben,
> The SUN had upgrade to V3 already over one years, the V3 is without LED for long life and better sound quality.
> Kingwa


----------



## bstr

Hi all,

 it's my first post here.

 I enjoy my mav since half year now. My D1 is the first version and finally I decided to lower the gain.

 I read that it doesn't work for tube out, but I think I saw somewhere here that some of you who lowered the gain are changing tubes. So does it work for tube out or not??


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





bstr said:


> Hi all,
> 
> it's my first post here.
> 
> ...


 

 The gain mod only reduces the gain in the headphone amplifier section.


----------



## Professor00179

Could anyone compare the sound of DAC section between Maverick and DacMagic? Which one is better and in what aspects? Anyone says that both of these are real bargains so I expect DacMagic to win as it costs twice as much and has not got AMP, but who knows? Those Chinese DACs seem to be amazing bargains. Thank you for your impressions!


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





professor00179 said:


> Could anyone compare the sound of DAC section between Maverick and DacMagic? Which one is better and in what aspects? Anyone says that both of these are real bargains so I expect DacMagic to win as it costs twice as much and has not got AMP, but who knows? Those Chinese DACs seem to be amazing bargains. Thank you for your impressions!


 

 Price doesn't mean much in the audio world, granted sometimes it does(obviously a $2000 DAC is better, but a $10,000 DAC is usually full of audiobabelnnonsense to make it seem worth its price).  So assumptions are dangerous  they can actually color the way you hear a device through placebo and not allow you to make the proper analysis.
   
  This is not from experience, just logic so take it as you will.
   
  More than one person in this thread has compared the DAC to single $500 units, even if not many people have raved about the headphone amp that is built in.  Personally I use the device as an entire unit, and the headphone amplification sounds fine to me.  But I have not heard better so I don't have much in terms of points of reference.


----------



## Professor00179

Thank you for your quick response
   
  I have made the assumption that DacMagic might be better as people say about it that it is a bargain as well and simply by the price compasiron (Maverick - ~£130 bargain, DacMagic ~£225 bargain) it seems like DacMagic is far more advanced units.  I can buy both (but for DacMagic I owuld buy separate AMP later), but would like to know, which would be better for my SR80i cans.
   
  I have another question - sound stage. Do you feel that the sound stage in Maverick is good for the price. I look for something that would have very good sound stage in its price range, especially because my Grados itself have very limited sound stage. I am also worried abut the 'tube sound'. I know that this unit features both - tube and soli-state AMP (at least I think so:E) so I would like to know whether it is possible to use Grados and other (in future HD650)higher impedence cans with the solid-state oone. I have yet not heard tube AMPs and I have no idea if I like their sound. I thiink I would like to get something more neutral.
   
  EDIT: Can anybody tell me how the electricity usage of an average DAC compares to Maverick? It has quite a big PSU out.:E


----------



## ninjikiran

edit: nm I was trying to take out the whole enclosure for it by mistake


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





professor00179 said:


> I have another question - sound stage. Do you feel that the sound stage in Maverick is good for the price. I look for something that would have very good sound stage in its price range, especially because my Grados itself have very limited sound stage. I am also worried abut the 'tube sound'. I know that this unit features both - tube and soli-state AMP (at least I think so:E) so I would like to know whether it is possible to use Grados and other (in future HD650)higher impedence cans with the solid-state oone. I have yet not heard tube AMPs and I have no idea if I like their sound. I thiink I would like to get something more neutral.


 
  The D1 only has a solid state amp, the tube output acts as a pre-amp. You can increase the sound stage by swapping OPAs, especially the LT1364 provides a great sound stage. I'm not entirely sure about the amp being able to drive 650s, but I read somewhere that one already used them with the D1.


----------



## Professor00179

Ok i think I will buy Maverick - this is kind of source I am looking for. It is not the frist time however, when I hear that the Maverick's amp is not very good for higher impedence cans. After buying this unit I will still have some money for upgrades such as entry level, separate amplifier, which would probably do better with HD650 and other 300ohms.
   
  What AMPs you found to be very good with Maverick? I am able to buy an AMP for the same amount of cash I would spend on Maverick, which is about £130-£140. In that price range I can find things like Head Box MK2, Creek OBH-11 and OBH-21. Would these AMPs have better sound quality than the one that Maverick has?  What other AMPs did you test with Maverick?
   
  Sorry for bombarding with questions but I would like to know what are your experiences. Just for your information - I am happy to buy something you were not really sure about when you made a purchase. So - if you wanted to hear from someone how maverick sound with some specific AMP then I am happy to test it and share my experiences with you. Just bear in mind that I will not have money for nothing above Creek OBH-21 so my help wouldbe limited to cheaper AMPs. On the other hand I can buy used products and therefore go above Creek OBH-21, which is probably the most expensive unused AMP I may pair with Maverick.


----------



## ninjikiran

You can possibly do a reverse gain mod, my generation D1 would have no problem with 600ohm cans.  Even ones that are not very sensitive.  (really its the sensitivity more so than impedance)
   
  Depends on how efficient the headphones driver is.  Granted the higher the impedance generally the more power your going to usually need.
   
  My ideology on amps is to go as transparent as possible.  Most people will start describing how amp X and amp Y sounds but remember the purpose of the amp is to drive your headphones.  Some amps are said to have a synergy with certain headphones, really couldn't tell you if that is true or not.  As long as everything you hear is an upgrade over what you previously got though its all good.


----------



## Professor00179

Has Maverick got sockets for quick op amp changes or would I have to solder such a socket?
   
  What op amps would you sujjest me to try in order to get wider sound stage and probably well-balanced sound? I do not like too bright settings and this is especially important for my Grados. There was one suggestion above (for which I thank you reiserFS). Are there any alternatives?


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





professor00179 said:


> Has Maverick got sockets for quick op amp changes or would I have to solder such a socket?


 
  The D1 has sockets for quick OPA switching.


----------



## Professor00179

This will make my life easier. Thank you once again.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





professor00179 said:


> EDIT: Can anybody tell me how the electricity usage of an average DAC compares to Maverick? It has quite a big PSU out.:E


 

 The D1 DAC/Amp has a 20-watt transformer. If you don't like/use the tube, you can save a decent amount of electricity by removing it.


----------



## Professor00179

@up - This is probably what I am going to do in the first place. Already I am in the situation where I have TV and 2 PCs turned on at the same time - every day. I would not like to add another unit that would increase electricity usage as the electricity bills already seem not so 'funny'.:E


----------



## ninjikiran

Best way to conserve electricity,
   
  Buy a large power strip, get a strong surge protection unit(single socket or something more expensive like one of those UPS(APC?)).  When you are done for a while shut everything off and then pull out that one large strip.  Viola no more phantom Drain.
   
  My setup for entertainment is... expensive in terms of power usage.  I am an energy hog


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Best way to conserve electricity,
> 
> Buy a large power strip, get a strong surge protection unit(single socket or something more expensive like one of those UPS(APC?)).  When you are done for a while shut everything off and then pull out that one large strip.  Viola no more phantom Drain.
> 
> My setup for entertainment is... expensive in terms of power usage.  I am an energy hog


 

 I do that for my entire computer and audio setup. I usually have everything running throughout the day and tun it off at the switch at night while sleepin. It's a good policy. Also, if you want to save more, turn off your monitors (visual, not speakers ) instead of letting them sleep after x minutes. That will save more than removing the tube from the D1  It's good to see at least a couple energy-conscious people here at Head-Fi.


----------



## Professor00179

I have not yet placed an order but I am close to. I read more and more about this DAC and I am more and more convinced it is exactly what I would be like see in my home system. However, I have read about some gain problems or something like that. Since I am buying used and - probably - old version of this unit I would like to hear from you what these problems really mean - I have *never* heard about high gain problems or something similar. What is the impact on the SQ and how to fix it?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





professor00179 said:


> I have not yet placed an order but I am close to. I read more and more about this DAC and I am more and more convinced it is exactly what I would be like see in my home system. However, I have read about some gain problems or something like that. Since I am buying used and - probably - old version of this unit I would like to hear from you what these problems really mean - I have *never* heard about high gain problems or something similar. What is the impact on the SQ and how to fix it?


 

 Before you buy it, ask for the serial number and e-mail it to Ryan to see if it is a model with lowered gain or not. Basically what it does is, it limits the amount you can move the volume knob (not physically) before your headphones get too loud. A lot of people with the high gain unit don't get past 10 oclock on the knob. It can add hiss but as far as I know, it doesn't reduce quality. By soldering 2 resistors into the PCB you can fix the gain to a more acceptable level.


----------



## Professor00179

Would high gain be a problem with SR80i? I do not think that they would require moving to volume knob further than 9 or 10 o'clock, Also the guy, who sells it says that he only experienced problems with pre-amp, which I am not going to use. I think I will go for this one anyway as it is quite cheap.


----------



## ninjikiran

or vice versa on the newer units you should be able to perform the same tweak in reverse, though probably the best solution for the next dac from Maverick Audio would be adjustable gain.  On top of that a version with no tube pre-out.  A slightly higher case for HDAM's would rock as well, since nothing beats the standard metal casing in functionality(keep the bad stuff out similar to a computer case like RFI/EMI) while remaining sleek.
  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Before you buy it, ask for the serial number and e-mail it to Ryan to see if it is a model with lowered gain or not. Basically what it does is, it limits the amount you can move the volume knob (not physically) before your headphones get too loud. A lot of people with the high gain unit don't get past 10 oclock on the knob. It can add hiss but as far as I know, it doesn't reduce quality. By soldering 2 resistors into the PCB you can fix the gain to a more acceptable level.


----------



## barbz

Hi all,
   
  This is a dumb question but what is the difference between the pre tube out and the normal out?
   
  Cheers
  Paul


----------



## sp70

On the Maverick D1, the Tube pre out, is basically like a tube-stage preamp, and the normal out is solid state preamp out. Some people prefer the tube sound, thus the D1 gives us both options. Hope that helps.  sp70.
  Quote: 





barbz said:


> Hi all,
> 
> This is a dumb question but what is the difference between the pre tube out and the normal out?
> 
> ...


----------



## barbz

Thanks - mine just arrived


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Professor00179* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I would like to know whether it is possible to use Grados and other (in future HD650)higher impedence cans with the solid-state oone.


 

 I've got one of the newer ones with the lowered gain and it works great with everything from SE530s to DT990/600s.  You don't get a whole lot of room on the volume dial to play with if you're using IEMs, but the background is very quiet and the channels are perfectly balanced.  You'll have plenty of room to play with if you're using grados (I have a pair of SR80s) and it also drives my HD650s quite well.  It drives HD*800*s quite well, for that matter.  It will also get plenty of bass out of K701s as well.  It's powered everything I've had a chance to plug into it.  It'd probably do well with any dynamic short of a K1000, and I've never got to try an ortho on it, but from the specs, I'd imagine it should just fine.


----------



## Professor00179

Thank you for your thoughts. I just found a good AMP that I could use with Maverick so it is not a problem now anyway.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





professor00179 said:


> Thank you for your thoughts. I just found a good AMP that I could use with Maverick so it is not a problem now anyway.


 

 What are you going to be using it with?


----------



## elwappo99

This is a really good idea. I've always found the Maverick's built in headphone amp to not really give the DAC justice.
  
  Quote: 





professor00179 said:


> Thank you for your thoughts. I just found a good AMP that I could use with Maverick so it is not a problem now anyway.


----------



## Eric_C

Hello all, just wanted to say that I got a secondhand D1 yesterday and am already loving it. Briefly tried it with my DT880 (250Ω) and Macbook via optical out, and there seems to be no obvious colouration of music, good soundstage, and a great deal of clarity even at 8-9 o'clock on the volume pot. 
  Have also tried it with my 360 (using analog in) and Red Dead Redemption was none the worse for it. Played 1 or 2 hours without suffering audio fatigue...can't say the same for my eyes though, haha.


----------



## ninjikiran

Hmm the ribbon cables(the ones tied together with the blue and white ribbon cable).  I think it might be that specific cable.  Anyway there seems to be problems with it as of late... its making my sound cut off on one ear.  I thought it was the opamp at first but then I accidentally poked it(and it fixed itself) as I remembered noticing this earlier.
   
  Seems to be awkward, doesn't look damaged.  None of those wires look damaged but it definitely has to do with this area of the mav. 
   
   
  edit:
  I removed all ties on the blue/white ribbon and poked on the wire a bit and nothing happened.  I guess they were pinching it a little harder when they were previously disturbed.  Regardless left and right channels sound perfectly fine now(it was always the left channel that bugged out)


----------



## Ultrainferno

I just won an ebay auction for a 396A WE for 15.51$. Happy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  @Ninji: Have you contacted Ryan about it?
  @ReiserFS: Sad to see you're selling your modded D1 on the FS forum.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote:


ultrainferno said:


> @ReiserFS: Sad to see you're selling your modded D1 on the FS forum.


 
  I'm really sad as well to let go of my precious baby, but the time has come to upgrade my DAC. Probably keeping it if it doesn't sell within two weeks though.


----------



## ninjikiran

I am not upgrading for a long while more than likely.  Unless I have to~
   
  My next upgrade(and probably last DAC upgrade since it doesn't get any better) is going to be a Benchmark DAC.
   
  I am going to replace my soundcard as transport pretty soon though, just so I can delegate it to its gaming potential, replacing my astro mixamp with a JVC DH-1 for DTS decoding.  That setup is going to be replaced with the beyerdynamic headzone one day though 
  
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Quote:
> I'm really sad as well to let go of my precious baby, but the time has come to upgrade my DAC. Probably keeping it if it doesn't sell within two weeks though.


----------



## Thrasymakhos

I am having problem with the tube out of my Maverick D1. I can still here the sound, but it is on very low volume level and it sounds very badly distorted. Solid stade out and headphone out works perfectly ok. I have tried to swap the tube to another one, but the problem persists. I have also tried to check the internal wiring and change the yellow wire that should transport the signal to the tube, but this did not help. I can do some voltage measurments, if needed. I hope somebody could give me hint how to fix this very annoying problem!


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





thrasymakhos said:


> I am having problem with the tube out of my Maverick D1. I can still here the sound, but it is on very low volume level and it sounds very badly distorted. Solid stade out and headphone out works perfectly ok. I have tried to swap the tube to another one, but the problem persists. I have also tried to check the internal wiring and change the yellow wire that should transport the signal to the tube, but this did not help. I can do some voltage measurments, if needed. I hope somebody could give me hint how to fix this very annoying problem!


 
  My best bet would be that you contact Ryan about this.


----------



## ninjikiran

Try it on direct and see what happens.


----------



## Thrasymakhos

I tried already the direct buttoon, and there is no difference. I also contacted Ryan, let's see if he could help me.


----------



## AlbatrosDIII

Quote: 





mavwong said:


> To be exact,
> 
> Out of the DAC > Volume Pot -> Headphone Amp (opamp on the right)
> > Direct Button (Enabled) -> gain stage (opamp on the center)
> ...


 


 ... Alright I'm an enormous newb. What exactly does this mean?


----------



## ninjikiran

Its the different outputs, and how the internals are effected.  Lets split it into seperate lines without talking internals.
   
  1. Headphone output, direct button doesn't work
  2. RCA output, Direct Button enabled meaning you can't change volume
  3. Tube Pre-out, direct Button enabled meaning you can't change volume, this output uses the Tube.
  4. RCA output, Direct Button disabled meaning you can change volume
  5. Tube Pre-out, direct Button disabled meaning you can change volume, this output uses the Tube.
   
  Direct enables you to skip any volume to output soruce volume level. 
  Quote: 





albatrosdiii said:


> ... Alright I'm an enormous newb. What exactly does this mean?


----------



## _Spanky_

Attention everyone, this is a very important message for anyone trying to get to the Maverick Audio website. I just got an e-mail from Ryan saying the following:
   
   
  Quote: 





> About 6 hours ago, I found I forgot to renew my domain name of mavaudio.com, and the domain name has been taken over by third party.
> I have been working since then, and put up a backup web site: www.mav-audio.com, everything is working properly through this backup site.


 
   
  This means that any e-mail chat you have going with Ryan will have to continue with a new e-mail on the site http://www.mav-audio.com/base/support Ryan will try to get the old domain back but, for now, use the new one.


----------



## ninjikiran

The heck, why did Cirrus Logic steal their website.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> The heck, why did Cirrus Logic steal their website.


 

 Huh?


----------



## ninjikiran

it was www.maverickaudio.com right? Check out where it redirects
   
  edit: nm it was mavaudio.com
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Huh?


----------



## _Spanky_

That's weird. But it was actually mavaudio.com


----------



## JustVisit

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Attention everyone, this is a very important message for anyone trying to get to the Maverick Audio website. I just got an e-mail from Ryan saying the following:
> 
> This means that any e-mail chat you have going with Ryan will have to continue with a new e-mail on the site http://www.mav-audio.com/base/support Ryan will try to get the old domain back but, for now, use the new one.


 

 Thanks Spanky for the notice. I've moved all the content on the original site to the new domain name.  Customers will need to go to the new site to get product and support info.


----------



## ninjikiran

I plan on testing out the K701's which I hear need a buckload of current.  Does this amp output the current it needs to fully activate? I really don't know from the specs .  I have the high gain model but I don't know if that is the main factor of output current.
   
  I really don't know much about that so the above statement probably sounds silly.


----------



## maverickronin

You should be fine.  I tried some K702s out on mine for a little bit at canjam and thought it did pretty well.  They even had some actual bass.  I was a little surprised given what I'd read about them.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> I plan on testing out the K701's which I hear need a buckload of current.  Does this amp output the current it needs to fully activate? I really don't know from the specs .  I have the high gain model but I don't know if that is the main factor of output current.
> 
> I really don't know much about that so the above statement probably sounds silly.


 
  You'll be surprised what the D1 can do with the K701, I switched to the D1 from my LD I+ after putting a LT1364CN8 in the amp section and a Sun in the DAC.


----------



## ninjikiran

Yea I went ahead and got the k702's and they are really nice,  they sound a little different in songs but not to make them unrecognizeable.  I can't really comment on them till they open up a bit more and I have more time with them.
   
  These are definitely not bass light, unless you expect to hear/feel bass in places where they should not exist. 
   
  First impressions count and I am really liking them, especially when it is quiet.  A little fatiguing atm on highs.
   
  The stepped volume knob needs to go now with these headphones,  would be better to fine tune the volume.
   
   
   
  Anyone mod a better dial into their D1 yet ?


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> I just won an ebay auction for a 396A WE for 15.51$.


 

 Just switched it. not sure it sounds better then the NOS GE :s


----------



## Professor00179

Hi. My plan to buy Maverick and test it with different AMPs is not going to work out. I have had a chance to buy a used Maverick very cheaply on ebay, but then received some more cash and I will now start building some more advanced system with separate AMP and DAC. However, maybe in the future I will be able to borrow Maverick from my friend who wants to buy it. I then might see how this DAC might work with proper AMP. I also think about buying some used Maverick and see what mods I can do to it since I am getting seriously interested in DIY. Again however, depends on cash - many possibilities, not much money.
   
  Someone asked me what AMP I was going to use. Well, I have had a chance to buy used Graham Slee Solo with upgraded PSU, but when the auction finished the actual price of this AMP almost reached average price for a brand new unit... Now I will be going with Corda Swing.


----------



## snip

I took possession of ReiserFS's "Skyline" D1 DAC a few days ago, I have now had a chance to listen to it using both USB from my Mac at home and the PC I use at work and also with optical and coaxial digital connection from CD player and Squeezebox, I am very impressed with this device, especially the tube buffered output, it is very crisp and detailed sounding. It seems to resolve much better than my modified Beresford 7510 more detail in the highs and very nice and warm low end. I even think it sounds better than using the lampizator output on my Beresford (straight from the DAC chip to the lampizator stage) I have listened with my DT770 Pro 80's on the built in headphone amp and think this does a pretty good job, I have listened to the line outs with Senn HD600's on my Audiotailor jade and Fostex T50RP using a NAD 314 for amplification (The only amp I have yet with enough power to drive those cans).
  I am at work right now and currently listening to DT770 on a Starving student sporting vintage 'Bentley' 12AU7's through the solid state line out, fed via USB, very impressed. I normally feed this amp from a creative X-Fi USB device (my typical work setup) and the D1 blows it straight out the water, which is not surprising, I will probably go back to using the X-fi here at work and have the D1 at home where it will feed my Jade for the HD600's and my upcoming M3 for the Fostex, probably feeding the Jade from the solid state output and the M3 from the tube buffered one.
   
  //Jan


----------



## Zaluss

I'm having similiar issues with my D1 as the above poster but all inputs give severe distorted sound. Both the SS and tube out including the headphone out. All sources. Direct or not. Anyway I contacted Ryan and he is suggesting I send it back to him. Time to do so


----------



## Thrasymakhos

Damn, that sounds scary. I did some voltage metering and it seems that there is no anode voltage on the tube of my unit. I measured the pins 4 and 6 according to the datasheet of 6N3. I am now thinking to consult a local company that repairs tube amps. If it is only small soldering job, I get my unit back much faster than by sending it to Ryan. But if the power supply (or something like that) is broken, then this will be for nothing.
   
  I hope that you get your unit soon fixed!


----------



## ninjikiran

If the unit turns on and other outputs work I doubt it would be the power supply.  Regardless any repair person worth their grain will test what needs to be tested and more than likely understand the problem and solution.  They are not going to make a solder connection if its not going to work.
  
  Quote: 





thrasymakhos said:


> Damn, that sounds scary. I did some voltage metering and it seems that there is no anode voltage on the tube of my unit. I measured the pins 4 and 6 according to the datasheet of 6N3. I am now thinking to consult a local company that repairs tube amps. If it is only small soldering job, I get my unit back much faster than by sending it to Ryan. But if the power supply (or something like that) is broken, then this will be for nothing.
> 
> I hope that you get your unit soon fixed!


----------



## middachten

I've been using the unit now for two months and I thought I would give an update to my original review.
   
  I'm using the unit connected to my system in the living room: Philips NP2900(speakers muted) > D1 (coax-in / solid state out) > DUSON A10 > EPOS M22i
  I use an OP249 OpAmp in both stages.
   
  Overall my D1 has improved significantly in terms of sound-stage and low level detail. Even HF detail is better now (this was my only critical point in the original review). When I wrote my initial review the unit had played for 20-30hours. Now its way beyond 200hrs. Just to check if it wasn't my ears 'playing in'  instead of the D1 improving, I checked again with my TC-Konnekt D24. And it was immediately clear: the D1 is now better than the D24 in almost every aspect that I value. Perhaps the D24 is still slightly more detailed in the HF region. This is best noticeable with classical music recordings of small ensembles. 
   
  Some other observations:

 I haven't had the chance to try other tubes. In the current configuration I prefer the solid state output over the tube output. The tube out does possess more warmth, but it also is giving much less detail and soundstage. The only case that I preferred the tube out was with some female jazz recordings.
 I've connected the D1 to the SPDIF output of my DUSON CD100. DUSON has only briefly been imported in the US during the nineties. This CD player uses a CDM9-PRO mechanism and has a high quality Pulse transformer in the digital output. At that time it compared favorably to CD transports from Meridian and Wadia. In short: this was a great improvement! The bass was more extended and defined and seemed to gain some weight. The midrange open-up with a much better separation between instruments and more depth in the soundstage. I guess the D1 doesn't do wonders to reduce the jitter that is introduced by lesser quality digital outputs. 
 I had the chance to try a few other head/earphones like the AKG K501, Sennheiser HD600 and the UE TF10. First, it was clear that my (closed-back) K271 have some serious limitations in terms of bass response and soundstage. Other than that I have come to the conclusion that the D1 drives all of these 'phones perfectly. Where perhaps the character of the TF10 was least suited for the neutral character of the D1 with the OP249. But I'm not a huge fan of the TF10 in the first place (also not when connected to my Cowon D2).
   
*I have been listening to a lot of music lately. Without having the continuous urge to try to improve something about the sound. I think thats the biggest compliment I can make to the D1.*
   
  Though upgradeditis is lurking around the corner. I still need to test some other tubes. Perhaps do some capacitor modifications, or try that LT1364? Or, dare I say, compare it to some of the interesting products from Audio-GD?


----------



## spronkey

So how's the reliability? I'm noticing a few issues posted in this thread... Being down here in NZ means that sending it back is one mega PITA if it ever breaks. What's the potentiometer like quality-wise?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





spronkey said:


> So how's the reliability? I'm noticing a few issues posted in this thread... Being down here in NZ means that sending it back is one mega PITA if it ever breaks. What's the potentiometer like quality-wise?


 

 I've had mine almost 9 months and haven't had a single issue with it. I don't know of any major faults in the product itself but since they're hand made, every so often there might be an issue that somehow sneaks past Ryan or is caused during shipping. I know Ryan tests each unit before it leaves so nobody will receive a completely DOA unit unless shipping really mishandled it. The pot is a standard Chinese pot. It takes about 3-4 notches before the volume is balanced and listenable. Someone replaced it with an Alps but there's no info on which unit was put in.


----------



## spronkey

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> I've had mine almost 9 months and haven't had a single issue with it. I don't know of any major faults in the product itself but since they're hand made, every so often there might be an issue that somehow sneaks past Ryan or is caused during shipping. I know Ryan tests each unit before it leaves so nobody will receive a completely DOA unit unless shipping really mishandled it. The pot is a standard Chinese pot. It takes about 3-4 notches before the volume is balanced and listenable. Someone replaced it with an Alps but there's no info on which unit was put in.


 
  Thanks for the info! How many notches would you say are on the control in total?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





spronkey said:


> Thanks for the info! How many notches would you say are on the control in total?


 

 I just counted and there are 30 notches on my D1 from December 09.


----------



## ninjikiran

Since I don't feel like getting a new DAC at the moment I put some money down on a Matrix M-Stage Amp.  Can't wait to add it to my chain.  Better volume control, no hiss past 50% volume, and gain control.  Better sound pot/mechanics.
   
  I guess I am going to put the LT1364CN8 inside of it, and put the SUN HDAM in the dac output position.


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





spronkey said:


> So how's the reliability? I'm noticing a few issues posted in this thread... Being down here in NZ means that sending it back is one mega PITA if it ever breaks. What's the potentiometer like quality-wise?


 

 I haven't had any reliability issues. The potentiometer is not a high-end component, but its not bad either. Mechanically its functioning perfect. Audiably I havn't compared it to anything else. I was planning to check if I could fit a blue ALPS or Noble potmeter. But I'm far to busy to be heating up my soldering iron right now


----------



## ninjikiran

I would suggest just grabbing a different amp with a better volume control unit(Pre-Amp stage I think its called).  People have long stated the amp section is the weakest link.
   
  Regardless I get a new amp this week so i'll try and compare it with the Maverick.  Don't expect me to use audio terms like "warm" or "clinical" or anything like that.  I'll basically state what it fixes over the built in amp/pre-amp on the mav.
  Quote: 





middachten said:


> I haven't had any reliability issues. The potentiometer is not a high-end component, but its not bad either. Mechanically its functioning perfect. Audiably I havn't compared it to anything else. I was planning to check if I could fit a blue ALPS or Noble potmeter. But I'm far to busy to be heating up my soldering iron right now


----------



## tuoppi

Has something happened to Maverick Audio? I can't access their website (http://www.mavaudio.com/) anymore.
   
  EDIT: The website has changed to http://www.mav-audio.com/


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> People have long stated the amp section is the weakest link.


 

 I suppose you refer to the headphone amp? The line-amp (or pre-amp) is quite good at this price level IMO. In particular the easy OpAmp rolling and clean power supply makes it a very versatile platform for experiments.


----------



## ninjikiran

Yea the headphone amp, I'll get to finally test it though against something else hopefully this week.  It didn't bother me(or was not very noticeable) until I got my k702's.  My previous Dt770 didn't exhibit the same issues on this amp, but I am also pushing the volume dial higher on the k702's which is where most peoples problems start.


----------



## ninjikiran

Posting a double reply,
   
  The non-stepped higher quality potentiometer is MUCH better than the mavericks stepped cheaper.  No noise at normal listening volume, and built in gain switching for higher/lower sensitivity headphones.  More clarity due to being able to fine tune volume for details.  Less audible peaks in the high end of the spectrum.  All of these are the obvious without hours of listening.
   
  It is in features a way better amp than the Mav, couldn't really comment on SQ, but its supposed to be rather transparent so the MAV  DAC is awesome .


----------



## snip

Having now spent a few weeks with the D1 I am pleased to announce that I am still very impressed with the sound (bear in mind that mine is the Skyline modified version by ReiserFS)
   
  The internal headphone amp works well with my Beyer DT770 (Pro 80 ohm) and the tube buffered output stage works very well with my Audiotailor Jade which is driving my HD600 using Audiotailor's "balanced" cable.
   
  The only negative thing I can find to say about this device is this;
   
  It has a very real problem with 96KHz material!
  To elaborate a little bit, when using my Mac's internal sound chip (which is limited to 16 bit output) the sound is great and quiet passages is dead silent at 48KHz, but when I set the sampling rate to 96KHz there is a very annoying noise when no music is playing and during quiet passages, this problem is progressively worse when using my Hiface transport in 24/96 mode and again goes away completely if I set the transport to 24/48
   
  I have checked the output from both transports on my scope and there is nothing to suggest it is the transport(s) which are at fault, I have also checked using my Beresford TC7510 DAC and I have no such problem with this device.
   
  Since we do not know what receiver and dac chip is in use in the D1 it is hard to speculate on what is causing this problem, my money would be on insufficient filtering after the DAC which I assume is a delta sigma class device.
   
  Whilst trying to find the cause of this problem I also noticed a curious thing with regards to the device's grounding scheme, the ground on the coaxial input, and of the analog output jacks, are tied directly to chassis ground and the earth pin in the IEC plug, this is unusual and against best practice. It is not in itself a problem, just bear in mind that a power supply fault in the device could potentially result in harm to your amplifier if that device is double insulated, i.e not grounded to the mains outlet.
   
  I would love to hear if anyone else has had any experiences with 96KHz on this device, obviously if you only ever use 48KHz it is a non issue.
   
  //Jan


----------



## ninjikiran

Hmm I don't have any problems with the Spdif over 96khz.  But the DAC does change something when going from 44.1/88.2->48/96
   
  I have used all modes in 24-bit but not the USB input which only supports 16/48.


----------



## snip

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Hmm I don't have any problems with the Spdif over 96khz.  But the DAC does change something when going from 44.1/88.2->48/96
> 
> I have used all modes in 24-bit but not the USB input which only supports 16/48.


 

 Hmm, either my unit is b0rked or my amp is a LOT more sensitive than yours 
   
  //J
   
  edit:
   
  I will look into it some more at some other time, I am trying to reorganize my room at the moment and the D1 ended up in a box with some other equipment. Will try with a few different amps and what not, also I'll take some pictures of my scope reading from the output.


----------



## reiserFS

Regarding your unit, I only have 16/48KHz material, so couldn't have noticed if there was something wrong with it. Tried swapping in the stock OPAs?


----------



## snip

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Regarding your unit, I only have 16/48KHz material, so couldn't have noticed if there was something wrong with it. Tried swapping in the stock OPAs?


 
   
   
  I haven't no, but I doubt very much that would make a difference, I will give it a go in a few days though.
   
  It's not really a big issue for me, if it gets on my nerves too much at the desktop I will just use the D1 as a front end for my SB3 which is 16/44.1 anyway driving some sort of amplifier for my speakers sometime in the future when I have room for a speaker rig.
   
  //J


----------



## _Spanky_

Hmmm, it's hard to say. I've always noticed some noise and weird random sounds with my D1. I always chalked it up to being a $200 all-in-one unit (or EMI/RFI with unshielded power cables), I'm obviously not going to expect the world of it. But I don't think I've noticed any noise differences when using different sample rates. Currently I use 24-bit 96kHz via coaxial input from my Teralink X2 transport without a problem.


----------



## snip

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Hmmm, it's hard to say. I've always noticed some noise and weird random sounds with my D1. I always chalked it up to being a $200 all-in-one unit (or EMI/RFI with unshielded power cables), I'm obviously not going to expect the world of it. But I don't think I've noticed any noise differences when using different sample rates. Currently I use 24-bit 96kHz via coaxial input from my Teralink X2 transport without a problem.


 

 Hmm yes, my first thought was that it might be due to the somewhat high output voltage of the hiface that is rumored in many threads. But the problem is the same with optical output from my built in sound chip, so it's down to sample rate for sure.
   
  //J


----------



## djnagle

I have not been here for a while.  Is this a mod to change out the volume pot?
   
  Also a question.  I am running full range drivers and subs with their own plate amps.  Can I take the tube out and go into my tube amp and take the SS out and go to the plate amps?
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Posting a double reply,
> 
> The non-stepped higher quality potentiometer is MUCH better than the mavericks stepped cheaper.  No noise at normal listening volume, and built in gain switching for higher/lower sensitivity headphones.  More clarity due to being able to fine tune volume for details.  Less audible peaks in the high end of the spectrum.  All of these are the obvious without hours of listening.
> 
> It is in features a way better amp than the Mav, couldn't really comment on SQ, but its supposed to be rather transparent so the MAV  DAC is awesome .


----------



## snip

Quote: 





djnagle said:


> I have not been here for a while.  Is this a mod to change out the volume pot?
> 
> Also a question.  I am running full range drivers and subs with their own plate amps.  Can I take the tube out and go into my tube amp and take the SS out and go to the plate amps?


 
  I believe it is yes, if I understand it correctly the mod was to install an alps blue velvet.
   
  Yes you can do that no problem at all, that is also the way I would suggest going about it.
   
  //J


----------



## ninjikiran

Nah I just replaced  the amp all together to avoid that circuitry altogether.  But if you want to just replace the potentiometer it wouldn't hurt.  Especially if you already have a lower gain unit.
  Quote: 





djnagle said:


> I have not been here for a while.  Is this a mod to change out the volume pot?
> 
> Also a question.  I am running full range drivers and subs with their own plate amps.  Can I take the tube out and go into my tube amp and take the SS out and go to the plate amps?


----------



## qba182

This is my first post on the Head-Fi forum, so officially: Hello everyone!  This is great place with lots of information.
  I went trough all 118 pages of this thread, before I finally decided to purchase the D1 for my headphones (HD205). I had to ship it over the ocean, but it was well worth it. Sound quality improved greatly.
   
  Now I want to add some powered speakers to my set. I was thinking of audioengine A5, because of the superb reviews on the net. But the A5 don't have a RCA input (only way to connect is trough a Y adapter that goes from female RCA to a male mini-jack). Does anyone use the A5 with the D1? What are your impressions?
  Please share, as I don't have a chance to test for myself. Anyone could recomend other speakers for arround 300$, that would go well with the D1?


----------



## ninjikiran

M-Audio Studiophile BX5a is a choice, they are active speakers so you can connect them to either the pure SS D1 output or tube flavored output at your own discretion without the need of an amp.


----------



## alvaroa

hi, would you prefer this dac against musiland monitor 02 or e-mu 0404 usb? I am willing to buy some used hd600


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





alvaroa said:


> hi, would you prefer this dac against musiland monitor 02 or e-mu 0404 usb? I am willing to buy some used hd600


 

 Those dac's I think should be good(Now that I put my SCard into an A/B test format with my new amp).  It might be a better idea to get an amp, and since your here check out the A1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





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----------



## middachten

Quote: 





alvaroa said:


> hi, would you prefer this dac against musiland monitor 02 or e-mu 0404 usb? I am willing to buy some used hd600


 

 The D1 and the 0404 are completely different beasts. The 0404 will provide you with much better drivers if you want to use it with ASIO or AU based music software (like Cubase or Logic). And it has more studio oriented connections (like mic amplifiers and MIDI).
   
  The D1 has better audio quality and a much better headphone amp. I use a TC-Konnekt D24 interface in my home-studio setup. I compared this unit extensively with the 0404 and found the audio quality of the D24 much better. What I think of the D1 compared to the D24 you can read in my review on this forum.
   
  If you want the studio options of the 0404, I would strongly suggest you consider the TC Konnekt interfaces instead.


----------



## djnagle

Has anyone tried the Westinghouse WL5670  tube in the D1???


----------



## taylor

Apologies if this has already been asked (long thread)
   
  What's better to use on this, USB or SPDIF? I've been reading it up and most say it depends on the USB chip being used.
   
  I have 4 interconenct options
   
  1 - Use the USB in the maverick
  2 - Use toslink out from my motherboard - VIA VT1708S
  3 - Use toslink out from a dedicated soundcard - Chaintech AV-710
  4 - Buy a new AM3 mobo or a new PCIe x1 soundcard with coax output
   
  Which would be best?


----------



## ninjikiran

1 - Last Scenario, USB mode is pretty bad and limited to a single mode 16/48.
  2 - Its ok, not the best.  You have to sample rate match your file and mess with other settings.
  3 - Bit-matched I think, supports up to at least 96khz from spdif I assume and 24-bit.  If so than this would be your best option.  If its a combo port, spdif would be the better option over toslink.
  4 - Unsure why you would want to do this(change MOBO)
   
  5 - Extra I am adding here, an external USB  transport or sound card(like the Asus ST, or Prelude)


----------



## djnagle

Hi Ninjikiran, I am a computer dumby so please bare with me as I don't understand what you are saying.  Currently, I have a computer acting as my server for my music system.  I have a 2TB external hard drive with all my music on it.  From the computer I go out of the USB into the D1 then on to my system.
   
  Are you saying I will get better quality with some other way of hooking this all up?  If so, can you use simple words so I can understand it.  Thanks.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> 1 - Last Scenario, USB mode is pretty bad and limited to a single mode 16/48.
> 2 - Its ok, not the best.  You have to sample rate match your file and mess with other settings.
> 3 - Bit-matched I think, supports up to at least 96khz from spdif I assume and 24-bit.  If so than this would be your best option.  If its a combo port, spdif would be the better option over toslink.
> 4 - Unsure why you would want to do this(change MOBO)
> ...


----------



## uelover

hi djnagle,
   
  The sound coming from USB to Maverick D1 is the worst option as compared to either toslink or coax. Nonetheless it will still sound better than direct analog sound out from your PC (server).
   
  However, if you have no dedicated sound card that supports optical out, USB remains the way to go.


----------



## djnagle

So is it just a matter of getting a sound card with Coax or Toslink?  Is there something specific I should be looking for?


----------



## middachten

Ninjikiran has already given some good advice.
  Let me just add my 2c to it:
   
  A lot of information about the general difference between usb and spdif(Toslink or Coax) can be found here: Why is SPDIF better than USB?
   
  My general experience with SPDIF connections is that Coax is almost always the best sounding option. But, I haven't actually listened to this option on my D1 (assuming that it would not be worth the effort!).
  The USB option is a bit of a mixed bag on this interface. I'm under the impression that it functions best at 48kHz sample rate. And at that rate the performance is on par with the Coax input. I've listened to a few live recordings that I made in the past at 48kHz sample rate. And with those recordings its almost impossible to find a difference between USB and Coax. I must admit that these recordings are not the most discerning pieces of music I have, but still I think the comparison is useful. 
  When I use 44.1k music material (for most people 100% of their collection!) the Coax sounds clearly better than USB. Overall difference: the bass is more defined and mid-high is more detailed and less shrill. But these differences are probably much smaller than the difference between the D1 and your motherboard output!
   
  If you don't have a coax connection available I would say: just hook it up to USB and listen. You can always add a USB to SPDIF interface. This might even give you a better quality solution considering the better coax interface of these units. This will improve the jitter behavior of the D1 coax input (which is quite OK as is, we're talking subtle improvements here).
   
  Hope this answer doesn't make it more complicated.....


----------



## djnagle

Thanks Mid.  One more question:  do I have to buy a new sound card to get coax or toslink?  There are neither of them on the back of my server.
   
  I guess there is also the question of the USB connection from my exteral HD to the server.  Is that link also an issue?
   
  And yes, the D1 sounds WAAAAAAAY better than my sound card.


----------



## middachten

If you're happy with the output trough USB you don't need to invest in a new soundcard. Effectively your D1 IS your new soundcard
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
   
  The link between the HD and the server is not an issue. This does not influence the audio stream.
   
  BTW (and grossly off-topic) whats that boat that you have in your sig? Sailing is my other big passion!


----------



## uelover

Adding on to middachten, there are many USB to Coax/Toslink converters out there in the market but they are pretty expensive compared to D1, plus there could be signal dropoff during the conversion so I won't advise you in getting them just to enjoy the coax/toslink input.
   
  It is a plus to upgrade the soundcard in your server but not a necessary if you are already enjoying D1 out from USB port.
   
  I guess that the ulterior goal of this audiophile hobby is to really enjoy what you already have and to stop wondering how you can make things better =D
   
   
  And a side track:
   
  I have always heard people saying that coax is better than toslink.
   
  Once, I have connected my sacd player directly to my D1 through Monoprice Coax and Toslink cable concurrently. I turned the input knot on my Maverick D1 but could hear exactly no difference between the two options (as if they are the same line!). It puzzled me but still turning the knot from coax to toslink and vice versa is like not turning the knot at all.
   
  However, when I change the Monoprice toslink cable to another toslink cable, I could clearly hear the difference in sound between the two cables.
   
  I wonder if monoprice made their digital cables to be exactly the same or if the difference between coax and toslink are very little for cheap cables...
   
   
  P.S. Man you guys have got expensive hobby!


----------



## ninjikiran

The toslink connection pops for me on the D1, the coax does not.  So the choice was simple 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.  Besides there more nasties using toslink, than there are using a well shielded Coax cable.  So if given a choice, I would go with Coax first Toslink second.
   
  A good transport might cost a bit of cash(~$100-$200) but you can use it with any DAC you buy in the future so its something you probably won't need to replace after buying it.


----------



## djnagle

Thanks guys.  Just talked to a friend that fixes PCs for a living at one of the major car companies here in Detroit and he is always collecting ANY that might be good in discared computers and he thinks he has a sound card with a coax I can have.
   
  Can I assume that any sound card I get, the coax or Tos will by-pass the boards DAC?  I understand that is what happens with my USB connection.
   
  I bought the Yamaha 1800 DVD/CD/SACD player 6 months ago.  It was only three months ago that I got around to buying a coax cable to hook it up to the D1.  Switching from that to the RCA inputs is night and day.
   
  OT, that is a Catalina C25 I bought and sailed for 4 years, sold, then bought a Catalina C27.  The C25 is the best of the two.  I sold the C27 and bought a 1958 Sparkman & Stevens 36' wood sailboat that was built in Norway.  I just sold that and am looking for my next project boat.  Out of the three, for jumping in the boat and going, the C25 was the best.


----------



## uelover

Hi, not all soundcard will have digital (optical/coax) line out. Certain soundcard will produce better signal quality for (optical/coax) as well so you will really need to be careful.
   
  Yes, digital raw signal (including USB) will bypass the on board DAC and leaves the processing work to any external DAC.


----------



## ninjikiran

That and driver implementation is something to think about as well.


----------



## djnagle

When you say Driver imp. are you talking about a driver for a particular sound card?
   
  I'm sure my friend will call me too early telling me what he found in his stash......


----------



## ninjikiran

Yep for that particular sound card.  Most sound card drivers are no better than onboard drivers so while it might have more features but for using it as a transport it is no different. For instance a bit matched output~ which for most cards are driver dependent.
   
  That said not all sound card digital outputs are made the same.  I would reckon most are afterthoughts since the real show is using the cards dac functionality~  Then again it depends on how much stock you put into stuff like "jitter".


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





djnagle said:


> OT, that is a Catalina C25 I bought and sailed for 4 years, sold, then bought a Catalina C27.  The C25 is the best of the two.  I sold the C27 and bought a 1958 Sparkman & Stevens 36' wood sailboat that was built in Norway.  I just sold that and am looking for my next project boat.  Out of the three, for jumping in the boat and going, the C25 was the best.


 
  Nice!
  The Sparkman & Stevens is something special! But also very time consuming. Very little 'jumping in and going' I assume
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.
   
  Sorry guys, I'll try to stick to the topic from now on....


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Yep for that particular sound card.  Most sound card drivers are no better than onboard drivers so while it might have more features but for using it as a transport it is no different. For instance a bit matched output~ which for most cards are driver dependent.
> 
> That said not all sound card digital outputs are made the same.  I would reckon most are afterthoughts since the real show is using the cards dac functionality~  Then again it depends on how much stock you put into stuff like "jitter".


 
   
  Some good reasons to just use the USB connection and not spend any money on a soundcard. And to buy some nice music instead!
   
  And if you can get one for free, just try it and let us know about the results


----------



## reiserFS

It will always by-pass the board's DAC, it's pure raw digital data after all.
   
  Quote:


djnagle said:


> Thanks guys.  Just talked to a friend that fixes PCs for a living at one of the major car companies here in Detroit and he is always collecting ANY that might be good in discared computers and he thinks he has a sound card with a coax I can have.
> 
> Can I assume that any sound card I get, the coax or Tos will by-pass the boards DAC?  I understand that is what happens with my USB connection.
> 
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





middachten said:


> Some good reasons to just use the USB connection and not spend any money on a soundcard. And to buy some nice music instead!
> 
> And if you can get one for free, just try it and let us know about the results


 


  I have and it sucks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I don't like the USB on the mav, can't listen to my 24/96khz content in their full glory with it either.  I already have a sound card from before that works as a better transport so its no extra money for me, while at the same time works at all bit depths and sample rates.


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> I have and it sucks
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Just curious, what kind of 24/96 content do you have? 
  I've seen some releases of Chesky and Water Lily that draw my attention, but have not yet bought anything. I do have some private live recordings at these sample rates. But to be honest, I find it just a waste of HD space. And they where recorded with some good equipment (Sennheiser, Shure and DPA mics and RME AD converters)


----------



## ninjikiran

Primarily some high quality vinyl rips, gotta love the character in their imperfections.  I don't have any SACD's or anything like that.  I find down sampling to always be a detrimental effect 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I also hate resampling when I don't need to.  I rather let my DAC sort all of that stuff out.
   
  As for USB vs Coax the difference exist but is slight.  I would agree that USB is an option if you have no other or are not one bit picky but if you do have an option it begs the question why not.  I do have one CD(well digital download) thats 16/48khz, the shatter sound track which sounds amazing might I add.  The price is right as well~
  
  Quote: 





middachten said:


> Just curious, what kind of 24/96 content do you have?
> I've seen some releases of Chesky and Water Lily that draw my attention, but have not yet bought anything. I do have some private live recordings at these sample rates. But to be honest, I find it just a waste of HD space. And they where recorded with some good equipment (Sennheiser, Shure and DPA mics and RME AD converters)


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Primarily some high quality vinyl rips


 
   
  I prefer to listen to my vinyl on my Mitchel Gyrodeck instead. No issues with SPDIF or USB whatsoever
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.
   
  BTW The discussion in this topic made me curious if my initial comparisons back in june are still valid. I think i'll spend some time during the weekend to do some more thorough tests!


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





middachten said:


> I prefer to listen to my vinyl on my Mitchel Gyrodeck instead. No issues with SPDIF or USB whatsoever
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Don't doubt your initial comparisons based on someone else 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best way to drive yourself insane in a sea of placebo.


----------



## lepel

halo all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 just buy MAV DAC D1

 i am very happy

 change the standart tube with NOS GE 5670W

 @_Spanky_ , you said The LT1364 and LM4562 were a "perfect" combo that many people enjoyed

   i already have LM4562 , can not fine LT1364  , can you give me option what can i change because not have LT1364

 or every one in here give me option

 thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ps : i am sorry my english not good


----------



## putz

I believe Digikey in USA carries the Opamp you are looking for.
  
  Quote: 





lepel said:


> halo all
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## _Spanky_

lepel, if I were you, I would just stick another LM4562 in there. They're known for having little to no DC offset so you shouldn't have a problem. Remember, one is for the DAC and the other is for the headphone amp section. I feel I also need to clarify that the tube is only for the RCA outputs on the back of the unit marked "tube".
   
  *EDIT*
  putz you are sneaky  But, he's not in the US...


----------



## middachten

I've listened to a lot of music this weekend
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  And also to a lot of equipment combinations. I've tried to check out how the D1 behaves when connected to its various inputs. And I've done some listening test to compare it once more with my TC-electroncs Konnekt D24. The D1 is equipped with an OP249 OpAmp in the line/DAC stage. I've used the regular (non tube) output. The connections to the poweramp (a Duson A10) are made with Straightwire Rhapsody and the EPOS M22i speakers are connected with Nordost Blue Heaven cables.
   
  I've used the following connections:
  #1 source: Macbook Pro using VLC
  - USB > D1 > Power Amp
  - FW > D24 > SPDIF > D1 > Power Amp
  - FW > D24 > Analog D1 > Power Amp
  - FW > D24 > Power Amp
   
  #2 source: Philips NP2900
  - SPDIF out > D1 > Power Amp
  - Analoug out > D1 > Power Amp
   
  This is a picture of the setup:
   

   
  BTW the Preamp was not used.
   
  I've listened to a lot of music, but the comparisons where made with these two recordings:
  - Crowded House - Woodface (track 7 & 10)
  - Leinsdorf Sessions / Strawinsky Firebirs suite (part 4) - on Sheffield Lab
  Both recordings where played using original CD's ripped to FLAC with EAC.
   
  My conclusions:

 The best connection was trough SPDIF, using the D24. This setup resulted in the best soundstage, most extended and controlled bass response and an overall smooth tonal response while maintaining dynamic feel. The D24 is know for its good jitter behaviour. It uses the custom designed DICE-II chip from TC. And te SPDIF output uses quality transformers. Hence I think that the D1 is served with the best possible (low-jitter) SPDIF signal. Resulting in a lower dependence on the jitter rejection of the SPDIF receiver.
 The worst, while using the D1, was the SPDIF connection to the NP2900. Bass response was less extended and had a typical hump around 150Hz. The mid-high frequencies where more harsh. And, most importantly, the soundstage was much smaller and less deep and dynamics where duller.
 The direct analog connection of the NP2900, using the D1 as preamp was even worse. Flat, lifeless and shril.
 The D24 directly connected to the poweramp showed better soundstage, and significantly more detailed high freqeuncies. But at the cost of more shrill mids and highs. In terms of tonal balance the connection using the D1 as preamp sounded much better.
 The D1 connected trough the USB interface sounded better than the D1 connected to the NP2900, but not as good as the D1 connected to the SPDIF of the D24.  There where remarkable similarities between those options though. The effects where in the same areas (bass extension/control, sound stage and dynamic feel. If the SPDIF/NP2900 was on one end of the scale and the SPDIF/D24 on the other end, the USB connection would be on 1/3 towards the latter one. In other words, not bad at all......
   
  From this experiment I conclude that the D1 is susceptible to the quality of the SPDIF feed. In fact, in some cases the USB connection might give better results!
   
  Some side conclusions:
  - The NP2900 is nice as a network player, but not such a good feed for the D1
  - The TC-Konnekt is a good quality audio interface, that could benefit from better electronics in the analog output stage. Its a shame that its much harder to do OpAmp rolling in this unit than with the D1!


----------



## lepel

Quote: 





putz said:


> I believe Digikey in USA carries the Opamp you are looking for.


 

 in here ( Indonesia ) is difficult to buy something out side country ( like ebay or online store in other country )

  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> lepel, if I were you, I would just stick another LM4562 in there. They're known for having little to no DC offset so you shouldn't have a problem. Remember, one is for the DAC and the other is for the headphone amp section. I feel I also need to clarify that the tube is only for the RCA outputs on the back of the unit marked "tube".
> 
> *EDIT*
> putz you are sneaky  But, he's not in the US...


 


  _Spanky_   i will try 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 my friend said opamp lm4562ha ( premium grade ) , has someone try it ?

 and DC is mean  = disconnect or distorsion ?

 thanks


----------



## maverickronin

Direct Current


----------



## BombayTheIndian

So I'm getting ready to buy one of the Sun HDAMs for my incoming D1, when I had a moment of hesitation. I'm hoping that someone can set me straight in my confusion:
   
  I plan on running tube pre-out to my headphone amp. I know that on the back of the D1, there's a SS out and a tube pre-out. Does the DAC opamp (not the headphone opamp, I'm leaving that as-is) process the sound for both the SS and tube outs? My hesitation came in being worried that it ONLY impacts the SS out, which I don't plan on using. Thanks!


----------



## Cal

Hey everyone
   
  I just ordered the D1 with the GE 5670 tube this morning.
   
  I'm planning to order some DT880s. I want the 600 ohm version, but does the D1 have enough power to drive it? If not, should I be looking to pair the D1 with the A1 to drive it?
   
  Or am I better off getting the 250 ohm version?


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





cal said:


> Hey everyone
> 
> I just ordered the D1 with the GE 5670 tube this morning.
> 
> ...


 

 It was/is fine with my former DT990/600s and current DT770/600s so the DT880s should be good as well.


----------



## Cal

Awesome. More money to spend! Doh!

 I have the dt770 80 ohm right now. I think the dt880 600 ohm will be a pleasant step up.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





			
				Cal said:
			
		

> Awesome. More money to spend! Doh!
> 
> I have the dt770 80 ohm right now. I think the dt880 600 ohm will be a pleasant step up.


 

 They are all in the same family, so that upgrade will primarily depend on what kind of sound you want. 
   
   
   
   


bombaytheindian said:


> So I'm getting ready to buy one of the Sun HDAMs for my incoming D1, when I had a moment of hesitation. I'm hoping that someone can set me straight in my confusion:
> 
> I plan on running tube pre-out to my headphone amp. I know that on the back of the D1, there's a SS out and a tube pre-out. Does the DAC opamp (not the headphone opamp, I'm leaving that as-is) process the sound for both the SS and tube outs? My hesitation came in being worried that it ONLY impacts the SS out, which I don't plan on using. Thanks!


   
  As in the FAQ, it all begins at the opamp for DAC output.  On another note, you don't use this opamp when you use the headphone output.  This was a common early misconception, I asked the man of the device himself.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/470639/maverick-audio-tubemagic-d1-dac-amp-condensed-faq-and-info-thread
  Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Mavwong*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## BombayTheIndian

Quote: 





> As in the FAQ, it all begins at the opamp for DAC output.  On another note, you don't use this opamp when you use the headphone output.  This was a common early misconception, I asked the man of the device himself.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/470639/maverick-audio-tubemagic-d1-dac-amp-condensed-faq-and-info-thread


 
   
   
  Thanks! I figured it was as much, but I had the weird moment of hesitation this morning before ordering. In regards to the headphone opamp, since I'm running the D1 to my Little Dot MK IV SE, I'll just be leaving that part alone, and will probably only check out the headphone output if I don't feel like putting hours on the LD - good clarification though for anyone who missed that part in the FAQ too!


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





cal said:


> Hey everyone
> 
> I just ordered the D1 with the GE 5670 tube this morning.
> 
> ...


 

 The headphone out on the A1 sounds incredibly much better as the one on the D1, even after opamp switching.
  If you don"t need it as a dac, get the A1. Imho
   
  Edit: Just read again and saw you ordered already. Get ready for some opamp rolling


----------



## etteoh

Hey Spanky,
   
  I wonder if you have tried using the LM4562NA opamps in both the headphone and DAC sections. I know the LT1364 and LM4562 combo fits most listeners' requirements but I can't seem to find anyone testing the 4562s on both sections. If you have tried this combo in the past, could you let me have your thoughts as I am contemplating getting a 4562 to try with the DAC and see how it goes but I don't want to waste time and money to do it if the combo sucks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Thanks a heap Spanky and have a great weekend!
   
  Best regards,
  E.T.


----------



## etteoh

I forgot to say that I'd welcome thoughts from anyone else on this forum also 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks in advance!
  
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Hey Spanky,
> 
> I wonder if you have tried using the LM4562NA opamps in both the headphone and DAC sections. I know the LT1364 and LM4562 combo fits most listeners' requirements but I can't seem to find anyone testing the 4562s on both sections. If you have tried this combo in the past, could you let me have your thoughts as I am contemplating getting a 4562 to try with the DAC and see how it goes but I don't want to waste time and money to do it if the combo sucks
> 
> ...


----------



## Cal

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Ultrainferno* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> The headphone out on the A1 sounds incredibly much better as the one on the D1, even after opamp switching.
> If you don"t need it as a dac, get the A1. Imho
> ...


 
  I'll be using the D1 as a DAC. I'm ordering a WA3 or WA6 this week for my headphone amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> They are all in the same family, so that upgrade will primarily depend on what kind of sound you want.


 
  Looking for a greater sound stage.


----------



## Ultrainferno

the WA3 or 6 should be great.
  I'm very satisfied with the D1 as a DAC, and I'm keeping it for sure, it's great but i'm surprised. You usually don't see it together with a WA3 or so


----------



## Cal

Maybe a stupid question, but may I ask why you don't usually see the D1 and WA3 together?


----------



## Ultrainferno

No don't get me wrong, as I said the D1 is a great dac!
  I should have put differently what I wanted to say: Most people buying Woo products worth thousands of $$ usually buy other components in other price classes.
  I do not mean in any way the D1 wouldn't match the setup, in fact the WA3 is my next amp I'm buying 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  So please do report back on that combination


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Hey Spanky,
> 
> I wonder if you have tried using the LM4562NA opamps in both the headphone and DAC sections. I know the LT1364 and LM4562 combo fits most listeners' requirements but I can't seem to find anyone testing the 4562s on both sections. If you have tried this combo in the past, could you let me have your thoughts as I am contemplating getting a 4562 to try with the DAC and see how it goes but I don't want to waste time and money to do it if the combo sucks
> 
> ...


 

 If you don't have a multimeter to test DC Offest on a opamp not listed in the Condensed FAQ then don't try it. I think the LM4562 could do good in both positions, it's a really good opamp.


----------



## Cal

Ah, I gotcha. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  But I'm still not sure which I'm getting. I'm about 40% WA3 and 60% WA6 right now. I've read that the DT880/600 loves the OTL WA3, but that it's also a good match with the WA6. And I like that I can pair the WA6 with lower impedance phones, whereas the WA3 supposedly likes high impedance phones only. I currently have DT770pro/70 and HD580/300. DT880/600 on the way.
  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> No don't get me wrong, as I said the D1 is a great dac!
> I should have put differently what I wanted to say: Most people buying Woo products worth thousands of $$ usually buy other components in other price classes.
> I do not mean in any way the D1 wouldn't match the setup, in fact the WA3 is my next amp I'm buying
> 
> ...


----------



## Ultrainferno

I'm sure that at some point it's true about the OTLs for high impendance headphones, but the A1 I have now isn't an OTL and believe me its great with the 600ohm beyers, different reviews confirm this.
   
  I'm sure they will both do fine for each type. As said above I'd go for the WA3, it should handle 30ohm phones and up anyway


----------



## etteoh

Thanks a heap Spanky. I spent the weekend looking up the web for anyone using the LM4562s in both sections and I think only one other guy on this forum does it. I believe he also happens to have the most modified D1 of the lot. I have a friend who is able to loan me his LM4562 and I'll give it a shot before deciding whether or not to buy one. I can't really compare it with the LT1364 since that is still en route to me and I'm presently stuck with the stock LF353N.
   
  I know there are quite a bit of people out there with the LM4562 in their DACs but they're not D1s. I'll write back in a couple of days with my findings on the LM4562 in the DAC after I get it from my friend today. Can't wait 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Thanks again!
  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> If you don't have a multimeter to test DC Offest on a opamp not listed in the Condensed FAQ then don't try it. I think the LM4562 could do good in both positions, it's a really good opamp.


----------



## Cal

As of Friday, my D1 is in Shanghai. Anyone know approximately how long it will talk to get to the states. Or even better, San Diego? I've never used DHL before. Will they eventually update the tracking page with an expected delivery date? I need to make sure someone his home to sign for the package...


----------



## Ultrainferno

DHL works fast, usually takes only 1 week for Maverick's items to get to europe.
  You don't get the expected delivery date in the trackerpage, just the "where is my item"
  Once it shows up in the tracking it will be with you very quick, unless customs gets a hold of it
   
  Enjoy the D1 and keep us posted!


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





cal said:


> As of Friday, my D1 is in Shanghai. Anyone know approximately how long it will talk to get to the states. Or even better, San Diego? I've never used DHL before. Will they eventually update the tracking page with an expected delivery date? I need to make sure someone his home to sign for the package...


 


  It took only 3 days to get to my home in the Netherlands. I can't image it will take much longer the other way around the globe. You should receive it in a max. a few days time. I wish you lots of listening pleasure!


----------



## millerlitescott

IMO the LM4562 sounds better than the LT1364.


----------



## BluFalcon

I convinced my wife to buy me both the A1 and D1 as an early Christmas gift.  Should have it in a few weeks if all goes as planned.


----------



## ThePunisher

For those who own the D1, how do you think it would pair with the Ultrasone Pro 550 (64 ohm)?  Would the amp noticeably improve sound, or just make it louder? I may buy a DT770/600 in the future.


----------



## etteoh

Thanks for the sharing. I had some pretty good listening hours with the LM4562 in both DAC and headphone sections. Will have it down in more detail shortly. While I won't know how it compares to the LT1364 until I get mine tomorrow/Thursday, I will safely say that so far, the LM4562 is indeed very promising.
  
  Quote: 





millerlitescott said:


> IMO the LM4562 sounds better than the LT1364.


----------



## ninjikiran

The only opamp that is used in the headphone output is the one nearest the headphone output.  The one in the center is only used if you make use of the RCA outputs.
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Thanks for the sharing. I had some pretty good listening hours with the LM4562 in both DAC and headphone sections. Will have it down in more detail shortly. While I won't know how it compares to the LT1364 until I get mine tomorrow/Thursday, I will safely say that so far, the LM4562 is indeed very promising.


----------



## etteoh

Pardon the slightly late review as I have had to juggle my time between work and the D1 of late 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's a tough thing to do...make that very tough since the amp is so bloody engaging. I almost took leave today just so that I could have more listening time with it. As promised, I wanted to let you guys have my impressions on the D1 using the LM4562NA in both sections, so let's get to it...on second thoughts, I think I should start it off as an overall review of my experience with the D1 since mine is fairly new in my setup.

 Before getting the D1 (which I got used by the way since the owner had a handsome windfall and bought the Lavry DA11), I spent many hours (make that days) reading up in this forum, which I would say is an excellent source of information if anyone is even thinking about what this little wonder is. Thanks to everyone for the solid thread and Spanky in particular for putting it all together!
   
  One of the things that I was primarily (and initially) concerned about was the gain levels on the D1. My concerns were valid seeing how I was going to pair it with my Grado SR325is, which is of a low impedance design. I went ahead and took the risk anyway since I was going to get the D1 for quite a bargain ($150 for what is still a relatively new unit). You know what? I was glad I took the risk because that doesn't seem to be a problem as I was pleasantly surprised that I can still enjoy low level listening on it with the volume knob at 8 o'clock. In fact, on a number of recordings, I even have to take it past 10 o'clock just so the volume is acceptable. Maybe this is the version where Ryan said would have a lower gain setting. But, importantly, what I learned from this is that despite the Grado being a low 32ohm design, it's sensitivity (or somewhat lack of it) at 98db meant they are not as power sensitive as they were perceived to be. I was really worried that I would not be able to enjoy low volume listening with the D1 but alas, that is no longer a problem. Thumbs up!

 When I first got hold of the D1, I spent many hours listening to it stock – meaning no opamps were swapped out even though I had the LM4562NA already on standby. The stock LF353N on the D1 wasn't really so bad. Sure, it does not have a marriage made in heaven synergy with the Grados but they were listenable. I liked how airy they were, which is something the LF353N do quite well in my opinion. However, I do agree that with my SR-325is, they were leaning on brighter end with most materials but they are certainly not offensive. It's just their character...and hell most of us with Grados are already accustomed to its forward sounding nature anyway.

 After several days of avoiding the LM4562, I finally gave in to temptation. After all, I already had a good idea how of what the LF353N’s characteristics were so granted, I was in a position to evaluate something different. I popped the hood, yanked out the LF353N on the headphone section and in went the LM4562 into the socket. Put the casing back on, fired up the player and the D1 and was eagerly anticipating for a surprise. And a surprise was exactly what I got…the LM4562 immediately made a big difference in bass response and depth. My jaw dropped (had to yank it back up and use a pair of rod locks to keep them from falling again) as I sat there wondering how the hell a chip smaller than the size of a peanut can make so much difference.  
   
  My SR325is got a tad less peaky at the top and words with a lot of “S” (like sometimes, sings, suppress, days, etc) were not overly pronounced anymore. It’s just “sss” instead of “ssssssss”. You get my drift. Most of my songs now had some weight to them and certainly the increase in depth is another noticeable change. You guys are spot on. The LM4562 is an amazing opamp. So I lived happily with a LF353N + LM4562 combo. So much so that I began to wonder what would it be like to have the LM4562 in the DAC section as well? As I said in one of my earlier posts, there was only one other guy in the forum that had both the LM4562 in both sections. Now, I’m no freaking engineer and I don’t even have a God damn multimeter at my disposal (and I say that in embarrassment if you must know) so I won’t know what the DC offset would be like using the LM4562 in the DAC. (Thanks for the warning Spanky) All I know is…I gotta try because that opamp is something! So I put up a couple of posts asking for opinions. Spanky and millerlitescott gave their thoughts (thank you, I appreciate them).
   
  Finally the day came and the other LM4562 was loaned to me by a friend. I quickly reopened the D1 and took out the other LF353N from the DAC. This one was a bit of a task since one of the pins didn’t seem to want to budge but after some gentle nudges (and a lot of patience) it came out nicely. In went the other LM4562 and casing back on. Power up, headphones on, loads disc and holds jaw tightly.
   
  The sound? Hmmm, I don’t exactly know what to make of it but it had a very different presentation. Two LM4562s made the D1 a very different beast altogether...and I admit I was not entirely taken by it at first (comfortably lets go of jaw). The soundstage now sounds as if there was a layer of blanket between it and the listener. This made the vocals somewhat laid back, which was something I wasn't really used to. However, the music now did have even more weight which can be a good or bad thing depending on what your listening preferences are. Lower bass response improved by half a mile 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 as the low rumbles on the Gladiator soundtrack were felt stronger, harder and longer (ok that sounded a bit erotic, sorry). The LM4562s also gave the sound a level of depth that draws you to the music. Let’s just say it was nothing like I have heard on any Grado before. As more hours passed, I seem to be taken into the sound more and more (slowly grips jaw again) and I am convinced the LM4562s are indeed magical, regardless of where they are applied. While I won’t say it is a be all end all solution, it gets pretty close for me. And they do tame the highs a little bit more. Who says the Grado SR325is is bright? Who? What’s bright? Where? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Although this is something owners of darker sounding cans should take note of when attempting the two LM4562 combo.

 I have yet to try the LT1364 with the LM4562, a combination reported by many here as the best there is for the D1. My very own LT1364 and the second LM4562 will ship out tomorrow and I should be getting them on Wednesday or Thursday. I can't wait for them to arrive. Although I admit I am a bit concerned about the intense heat from the LT1364 as reported by many. The only consolation is I run the D1 in an air-conditioned environment so maybe that would help a bit. I’ve also purchased the LT1358 in the same shipping since that was another opamp that was widely touted by many as being one of those “up there”. Also by doing that, I get free shipping 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So, the LT1358, safe to use on the D1? Anyone?
   
  In the mean time, I’ve gone back to the LF353N on the DAC. Not because I don't like the LM4562 (I love them) but because my friend needs it back. Meh! Anyway, I unplugged it out this morning and going back to the LF353N, I now find the sound a tad too clinical for my liking...the LM4562s are indeed very “poisonous” 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now, if only there was a way that I could get rid of that “blanket” in the soundstage effect...hopefully this is something the LT1364 will do for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Ah, I nearly forgot to mention that the with two LM4562s, low listening decibel levels are even more balanced. Previously with the volume knob at 7 o’clock or 7:30, the left channel was a little bit louder than the right. With two LM4562s, that went away. Why? How? Hey, don’t ask me. Maybe an engineer or expert here would know the reason but I like it! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Until the other three opamps arrive...well, so far, I have to say that the D1 is indeed something. It drives my Grado extremely well and gives me the sound I have been longing to hear. The control and authority it has over complex tracks is amazing! I don't lose bass response and details when jacking up the volume. Musical slam has all the oomph! Everything is in place and I like how it keeps me glued to it all night long. Even as I was putting together my findings for this review last night, I already had the Grados on for at least 3.5 hours! Amazing! The D1 is indeed a very versatile DAC/amp and a great combo for my Grado! This one's gonna be staying home for a long time


----------



## etteoh

No way! Whenever I rolled between the LF353N and LM4562 in the DAC, the sound was different. Please don't kill my dreams and tell me what I heard was all psychological. Please! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Also, with two LM4562, I get stable (make that balanced) low listening volumes as opposed to the LF353N sitting in it. Whenever I put back the LF353N, the imbalance comes back so I am pretty sure the opamp in the DAC has an influence to the sound to some degree.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> The only opamp that is used in the headphone output is the one nearest the headphone output.  The one in the center is only used if you make use of the RCA outputs.


----------



## ninjikiran

Might be a folley at best, even the designer of the device said only a single opamp works out of the headphone output.
   
  One way to test for yourself is pop out the center opamp and notice that even with that circuit not being complete you still get sound 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





, and theres no "bypass"
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> No way! Whenever I rolled between the LF353N and LM4562 in the DAC, the sound was different. Please don't kill my dreams and tell me what I heard was all psychological. Please!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## etteoh

Nooooooooo! I want refunds! Damn it!
   
  But before I go and get all anal with the reseller, which by the way is no fault of his, I'm going to do that little test you recommended. I want to at least get to the bottom of the sound imbalance mystery 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Might be a folley at best, even the designer of the device said only a single opamp works out of the headphone output.
> 
> One way to test for yourself is pop out the center opamp and notice that even with that circuit not being complete you still get sound
> 
> ...


----------



## Ultrainferno

???
   
  If Ryan says its only one opamp you should probably believe it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 What's the story with the refund because of this? Or did I just miss the humor in that one? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Nooooooooo! I want refunds! Damn it!


----------



## ninjikiran

He is getting channel imbalances either with that weird combo with the default opamp in the RCA output stage and LM4562 in the Headphone Amp output.  Or so I assume which in itself is really really strange~
   
  If its the other way around though I would assume bad opamp, and call it a day.  But to have channel imbalances due to an opamp that has no bearing on the actual output is just wrong.
   
  On opamps I used an OPA SUN in the center opamp position(and amp position) but all it did imo was add a little noise or distortion on really upper highs.  Right now I have an LM4562 in my maverick for RCA output and a 3.3k Class A Biased LM49720(supposedly a re-branded 4562) in my external HPA.  The only thing that seemed to make a positive difference in opamps for me was the biasing.
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> ???
> 
> If Ryan says its only one opamp you should probably believe it
> 
> ...


----------



## etteoh

I believe Ryan...I believe you guys too...but I also trust my ears to know it's something more than just mere psychological effects. Either that, or the previous owner must have done some kinda mod to the D1. As much as I'd like to deny it now after knowing the opamp on the DAC does not affect the headphones out, I know for sure the signature of the sound becomes different from rolling one opamp to another. Plus I can't seem to understand why I'd get channel imbalance from it too...I have two different LF353N opamps that I tried. Both gave me the same channel imbalance. None of which were present with either of the LM4562.
   
  Oh the refund thing was a forced humor gone wrong. I was just trying to cheer myself up...sorry 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But I ain't letting no soul take me D1 away from me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> ???
> 
> If Ryan says its only one opamp you should probably believe it
> 
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

I don't understand why youde get the channel imbalance either, I think there is something wrong with your unit.  If the center opamp is not connected to the headphone output then its impossible to get any advantage out of it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Its all psychoacoustics or part of the defect.
   
  Trusting your ears on head-fi is often a death sentence, because you'll go absolutely insane.  Sometimes you have to trust them, but in this situation if your ears are right something is wrong and not right 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, that being said if the imbalance doesn't occur with th 4562 opamp in there then keep it there.  But I would actually e-mail their support @ mav-audio.com.  Even if you got it by a third party, they might be able to talk you through it better and see what the problem is.
   
  I actually had the  default opamp in the RCA output stage for the longest and never had any channel imbalances.  Still try to see if you get the same imbalances with no opamp in there, a worthy experiment.
  
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> I believe Ryan...I believe you guys too...but I also trust my ears to know it's something more than just mere psychological effects. Either that, or the previous owner must have done some kinda mod to the D1. As much as I'd like to deny it now after knowing the opamp on the DAC does not affect the headphones out, I know for sure the signature of the sound becomes different from rolling one opamp to another. Plus I can't seem to understand why I'd get channel imbalance from it too...I have two different LF353N opamps that I tried. Both gave me the same channel imbalance. None of which were present with either of the LM4562.
> 
> Oh the refund thing was a forced humor gone wrong. I was just trying to cheer myself up...sorry
> 
> ...


----------



## etteoh

Spot on dude! Channel imbalance only if I use the stock opamps on the DAC. Doesn't matter what I use on the headphones stage. Left channel is louder than the right (or right channel is softer than the left, whichever way you want it served) but only apparent when the volume knob is at 7'o clock or 7:30. If LF353N is on the headphones out and LM4562 on the DAC, no problem. LM4562 on both stages, no problem. Puzzling...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> He is getting channel imbalances either with that weird combo with the default opamp in the RCA output stage and LM4562 in the Headphone Amp output.  Or so I assume which in itself is really really strange~
> 
> If its the other way around though I would assume bad opamp, and call it a day.  But to have channel imbalances due to an opamp that has no bearing on the actual output is just wrong.
> 
> On opamps I used an OPA SUN in the center opamp position(and amp position) but all it did imo was add a little noise or distortion on really upper highs.  Right now I have an LM4562 in my maverick for RCA output and a 3.3k Class A Biased LM49720(supposedly a re-branded 4562) in my external HPA.  The only thing that seemed to make a positive difference in opamps for me was the biasing.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Spot on dude! Channel imbalance only if I use the stock opamps on the DAC. Doesn't matter what I use on the headphones stage. Left channel is louder than the right (or right channel is softer than the left, whichever way you want it served) but only apparent when the volume knob is at 7'o clock or 7:30. If LF353N is on the headphones out and LM4562 on the DAC, no problem. LM4562 on both stages, no problem. Puzzling...


 

 take out the center opamp all together, and try it with the headphone opamp plugged in only.  And try all 3 opamps in the headphone position before you call it a night, I am curious.  I would also try the RCA output if you have an adapter to plug your headphones into and see if there is any channel imbalance if you raise the volume to near max(since its not the amp it will be a little low)
   
  Also the amp has some channel imbalance till about your 4th click in.


----------



## etteoh

Something wrong with my unit??? Oh hell no...why me? I'm prepared to get all denial, leave the LM4562s in both stages and just pretend there is nothing wrong with the unit because that way, it is perfect 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can't for the life of me send the unit back somewhere for fixing (if there's really something wrong). Considering where I'm at, I don't think I can live that long without it, more so given it's a new toy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You know how that feels right?
   
  But you have a good point...maybe I should drop support an email in regards to this "problem" and see what they say because I really want to know what gives.And yes, I will try it later with no opamp in the DAC section to see if the imbalance is present. Thanks dude!
   
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> I don't understand why youde get the channel imbalance either, I think there is something wrong with your unit.  If the center opamp is not connected to the headphone output then its impossible to get any advantage out of it
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## etteoh

I like your troubleshooting skills man 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm so gonna be busy later 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Ok, with LM4562 in both stages, channel imbalance only happens on the first click. After that, good all the way.
   
  With the LF353N in the DAC, the imbalance lasts up till the 3rd click. 4th click onwards, it's good.
   
  This is some weird crap right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> take out the center opamp all together, and try it with the headphone opamp plugged in only.  And try all 3 opamps in the headphone position before you call it a night, I am curious.  I would also try the RCA output if you have an adapter to plug your headphones into and see if there is any channel imbalance if you raise the volume to near max(since its not the amp it will be a little low)
> 
> Also the amp has some channel imbalance till about your 4th click in.


----------



## ninjikiran

Its only weird because an opamp that's not related to the output is doing it, well it would be weird if there were that big a decibel gap between opamps.
   
  I have one of the original high gain units which don't start to give you real volume in the first 2-3 clicks.  ATM I use a better amp with the mavs dac.
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> I like your troubleshooting skills man
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Ultrainferno

Do you actually listen at 4 clicks? if you always listen above 4 clicks, then problem solved


----------



## etteoh

Agreed! It's bugging me crazy now that I found out from you the DAC section of the opamp is supposed to have no effect on the headphones out.
   
  My unit I believe is the reduced gain version since I can even take it past 10 o'clock on some recordings...with a Grado SR325is 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My cans would have blown (if not my ears) had I tried the same with one of the original high gain units.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Its only weird because an opamp that's not related to the output is doing it, well it would be weird if there were that big a decibel gap between opamps.
> 
> I have one of the original high gain units which don't start to give you real volume in the first 2-3 clicks.  ATM I use a better amp with the mavs dac.


----------



## etteoh

LOL! Well, I like doing soft listenings in the late evenings and 2 to 3 clicks works nicely IF the LM4562 is in the DAC stage. I can't live with channel imbalance.
   
  4 clicks up is very possible with the reduced gain unit. As I told ninjikiran, I can even take it past 10 o'clock, easily, on some recordings and to quote one such album is the ALR Jordan Voices.
  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Do you actually listen at 4 clicks? if you always listen above 4 clicks, then problem solved


----------



## ninjikiran

My k702's needed about 6-8 clicks, depending on the recording 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  But I found the stepped attenuator do do these headphones wrong.  Though the entire amp was an overall upgrade for me on many levels.
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> LOL! Well, I like doing soft listenings in the late evenings and 2 to 3 clicks works nicely IF the LM4562 is in the DAC stage. I can't live with channel imbalance.
> 
> 4 clicks up is very possible with the reduced gain unit. As I told ninjikiran, I can even take it past 10 o'clock, easily, on some recordings and to quote one such album is the ALR Jordan Voices.


----------



## etteoh

Bewildered D1 user reporting back with results from suggested troubleshooting. Here they are:
   
  DAC section with no opamps - sound is distorted! What???
  DAC section with no opamps and Headphone section with any opamp (LF353N, LM4562) - distorted! What again...
  DAC section with LF353N and Headphone section with any opamp - channel imbalance at low levels (4th click onwards ok)
  DAC section with LM4562 and Headphone section with LF353N - no problemo (clinical sounding though)
  DAC section with LM4562 and Headphone section with LM4562 - perfecto!
   
  I checked with the courier company and I will be receiving the additional opamps on Thursday - LT1364, OPA2107 and LME42970HA metal can with DIP converter. Let's see what happens after that. By the way, will it be safe to use the LME49720HA on the Headphone section? I understand Spanky mentioned this opamp having some DC offset.
   
  Any thoughts / advice appreciated.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> take out the center opamp all together, and try it with the headphone opamp plugged in only.  And try all 3 opamps in the headphone position before you call it a night, I am curious.  I would also try the RCA output if you have an adapter to plug your headphones into and see if there is any channel imbalance if you raise the volume to near max(since its not the amp it will be a little low)
> 
> Also the amp has some channel imbalance till about your 4th click in.


----------



## ninjikiran

DC offsets are safe for the unit but are not supposedly all that safe for your headphones.  Over time this is supposed to burn the little voice coils.


----------



## Cal

Just got my D1 and have run into an issue. I don't think it's the D1's fault, but mine.
   
  I have it connected to my computer via an optical cable (using the on-board optical out from my motherboard). And I don't have any free USB ports to use. The computer volume is maxed out. iTunes volume is maxed out. The plugs are in tightly. The "source" on the D1 is set to "optical." There are no other speakers or headphones connected to my computer.
   
  I'm using Realtek HD with Windows 7 to manage my audio.
   
  If it makes any difference, I'm using this optical cable: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10229&cs_id=1022901&p_id=2764&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
   
  HELP!


----------



## ThePunisher

Quote: 





cal said:


> Just got my D1 and have run into an issue. I don't think it's the D1's fault, but mine.
> 
> I have it connected to my computer via an optical cable (using the on-board optical out from my motherboard). And I don't have any free USB ports to use. The computer volume is maxed out. iTunes volume is maxed out. The plugs are in tightly. The "source" on the D1 is set to "optical." There are no other speakers or headphones connected to my computer.
> 
> ...


 

 I don't think you defined the problem. Is it that there is no audio, or audio is not very loud?


----------



## Cal

No audio.


----------



## Cal

Okay, I think I figured out the problem...but not the solution. I think my computer is recognizing it as a digital in....?
   
  For what it's worth, the mobo I am using is: EVGA nForce 780i SLI: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188024


----------



## Cal

It's weird because the Windows manager has a check by the Realtek Digital Output, but the Realtek manager has a check by the Digital Input.
   
  See screen shot.
   
  http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/2658/notworkinggggg.jpg


----------



## ninjikiran

Go ahead and run the test in sound settings.  See if you hear anything by forcing it on the digital output.  (Right click and Test)


----------



## Cal

I did. Got nothing.
   
  I've gone ahead and connected the D1 to my computer via USB. W7 successfully installed the driver for it. Changed the source on the D1 to USB. Still no sound at all.
   
  Digital Output is set as default.
   
  Realtek Audio driver is updated.


----------



## Cal

The bar next to the Realtek Digital Output moves as I play my music through iTunes...so I'm guessing it is sending a signal. But the D1 isn't picking it up or receiving it.
   
  See picture: http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/812/photokh.jpg


----------



## ninjikiran

Try setting USB as default.
   
  Worst case scenario, try out of external device like a PSP or something though the analog RCA or Line-In and see if you get any sound. 
   
  On another note when you connect the USB a light should go on.
   
  Also this is a stupid question but I gotta ask anyway, make sure your connecting your headphones in the right socket.  Or open the unit up and make sure there are opamps plugged in.
    
   
  Quote:


cal said:


> I did. Got nothing.
> 
> I've gone ahead and connected the D1 to my computer via USB. W7 successfully installed the driver for it. Changed the source on the D1 to USB. Still no sound at all.
> 
> ...


----------



## Cal

How do I set the USB as default? I don't see that as an option when it is plugged in. Also, I can't plug in a line-in and headphones (at least not right now). Both line-in and headphones out use 1/4", and the D1 only came with one 1/4" adapter. And yes, it is plugged into the right socket, hehe. Don't have any allen wrenches small enough to open the unit up.


----------



## Cal

Okay, never mind. Got the USB to work. But I had to unplug something else...that is more important. I'd really like to get this working with the optical out...


----------



## Cal

Also, when I have both plugged in (USB and optical) and switch the source on the D1 from USB to Optical, there is a quick static sound through my headphones. Don't know if that means anything...


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> The only opamp that is used in the headphone output is the one nearest the headphone output.  The one in the center is only used if you make use of the RCA outputs.


 
   
   
  SHENANIGANS I SAY! I thought the DAC opamp was just for the DAC... Then the signal gets split to the headphone out and the RCA out. I'll bust open my D1 if I have to in order to get down to the bottom of this.
   
  *EDIT*
  Cal, the static is normal. That's just how it works. I would probably recommend using USB (as long as you don't get any grounding noise) instead of the Realtek digital out. Onboard output is terrible and in my opinion worse than the D1's USB input. The D1 locks the sample rate while onboard audio can silently resample audio and degrade quality without you knowing.
   
   
  Just a small reminder to any "new" people to this thread, check out the condensed FAQ's about the D1 and A1. I recently modded my A1 and put up a tutorial in the FAQ. Enjoy:
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/470639/maverick-audio-tubemagic-d1-dac-amp-condensed-faq-and-info-thread
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/500259/maverick-audio-tubemagic-a1-hybrid-amp-condensed-faq-and-info-thread


----------



## ninjikiran

You can ask ryan yourself or check out the FAQ.  The audio routing as shows is...
   
  Center opamp ---> RCA out,
  CenterOpamp - Tube--> RCA PreOut
   
  or
   
  Right opamp ---> Headphone out.
   
  ignoring the volume pot and direct buttons.


----------



## _Spanky_

=\ The FAQ link takes me to the old site. Not to disrespect Ryan in any way but I try to not ask him technical questions about the circuit. I guess I was just mis-informed about how the circuit goes. I thought the opamp for the DAC was for power or some kind of requirement for the DAC.


----------



## Cal

Noted. Would I benefit from getting a dedicated sound card and using its optical out (compared to using USB)? If so, what's a decent card for around $200 (less if possible...I've bought this D1, dt880/600, hd580, and a WA6 in the last 2 weeks)?
  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> SHENANIGANS I SAY! I thought the DAC opamp was just for the DAC... Then the signal gets split to the headphone out and the RCA out. I'll bust open my D1 if I have to in order to get down to the bottom of this.
> 
> *EDIT*
> Cal, the static is normal. That's just how it works.* I would probably recommend using USB (as long as you don't get any grounding noise) instead of the Realtek digital out. Onboard output is terrible and in my opinion worse than the D1's USB input. The D1 locks the sample rate while onboard audio can silently resample audio and degrade quality without you knowing.*
> ...


----------



## _Spanky_

I think you'll benefit the most by getting something that does bit-perfect coaxial SPDIF output (optical usually has more jitter and quality cables are spendy). Either a USB or PCI/PCI-E sound device. That would probably be the least weakest chain in your setup then. Not that I'm trying to sell my own stuff by saying the above but I have a X-Fi for sale...


----------



## Cal

Is the X-Fi plug and play on Windows 7? Is it PCI or PCI-E? I think I only have PCI-E slots left. Also, what cable would I need to use with the X-Fi and D1?


----------



## etteoh

Yeah, that was what I was worried about since I only use headphones with the D1. I'd hate for the offset to fry my Grados. As for the DAC opamp issue, I'm just gonna stick and leave the LM4562 in there since there are virtually no issues when it's sitting in that socket. I'm still puzzled for the most part but decided that I am not going to lose sleep/hair over it.
   
  Spanky, would you or anyone else know if the metal-can LME49720HA would be okay to use on the headphone stage of the amp? This one is worrying me a bit. I remembered in the FAQ you or somebody else tested the DIP version which did show some levels of offset.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> DC offsets are safe for the unit but are not supposedly all that safe for your headphones.  Over time this is supposed to burn the little voice coils.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





cal said:


> Is the X-Fi plug and play on Windows 7? Is it PCI or PCI-E? I think I only have PCI-E slots left. Also, what cable would I need to use with the X-Fi and D1?


 

 If you're interested, check out my FS thread:
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/500292/fs-hot-rodded-creative-x-fi-xtremegamer-fatal1ty

  
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Yeah, that was what I was worried about since I only use headphones with the D1. I'd hate for the offset to fry my Grados. As for the DAC opamp issue, I'm just gonna stick and leave the LM4562 in there since there are virtually no issues when it's sitting in that socket. I'm still puzzled for the most part but decided that I am not going to lose sleep/hair over it.
> 
> Spanky, would you or anyone else know if the metal-can LME49720HA would be okay to use on the headphone stage of the amp? This one is worrying me a bit. I remembered in the FAQ you or somebody else tested the DIP version which did show some levels of offset.


 

 If there's no offset on the LME49720HA then it would be ok to use  I don't have one and I haven't tested. If the DIP version is in the FAQ and it's the same chip, I see no reason to expect any lower offset since it probably uses the same circuit.


----------



## ninjikiran

which means you sould probably go with the LM4562HA, the 49720 is supposed to be the exact same opamp in terms of sound and design(as well as specs) but lets face it sometimes things change in actual fabrication.


----------



## etteoh

Ah, ok. Man, I hope that guy accept returns/refunds. If he has the LM4562HA, then it should just be a simple swap and go thing. We'll see.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> which means you sould probably go with the LM4562HA, the 49720 is supposed to be the exact same opamp in terms of sound and design(as well as specs) but lets face it sometimes things change in actual fabrication.


 


 Was hoping to be able to use the LME49720HA since there were tons of raves about how good it sounds in both DAC and headphone applications. Still, I love my Grados more to not let the opamp fry it.
  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> If you're interested, check out my FS thread:
> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/500292/fs-hot-rodded-creative-x-fi-xtremegamer-fatal1ty
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Ah, ok. Man, I hope that guy accept returns/refunds. If he has the LM4562HA, then it should just be a simple swap and go thing. We'll see.
> 
> 
> 
> Was hoping to be able to use the LME49720HA since there were tons of raves about how good it sounds in both DAC and headphone applications. Still, I love my Grados more to not let the opamp fry it.


 
  LME49720 is a rebranded LM4562


----------



## Ultrainferno

@Cal, did you get to try the D1 with the line in from an ipod or the analogue/optical/coax in from a cd player without using your pc?
  Or did you get it to work via USB only?
   
  On a sidenote, please do send me that wallpaper!


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> @Cal, did you get to try the D1 with the line in from an ipod or the analogue/optical/coax in from a cd player without using your pc?
> Or did you get it to work via USB only?
> 
> On a sidenote, please do send me that wallpaper!


 

 Just visit 4chan /wg (wallpaper general), that wallpaper or style of wallpaper I see all the time.  I usually get my wallpapers from 4chan, generally find what I want easier than deviantart or other image aggregation sites.


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Bewildered D1 user reporting back with results from suggested troubleshooting. Here they are:
> 
> DAC section with no opamps - sound is distorted! What???
> DAC section with no opamps and Headphone section with any opamp (LF353N, LM4562) - distorted! What again...
> ...


 

 Any succes on finding the cause yet?
   
  If not, have you checked what happens when you remove the tube?
   
  The only reason I can think of channel imbalance is a situation where the output of the DAC is drained to such a level that it can't produce the normal output anymore. Since its output is split over the three channels (headphone, normal out, tube out) a change in either one of them could cause a change in the channel you are listening to.
   
  And another relevant question: is the imbalance always around the same position of the Volume control?


----------



## Cal

ultrainferno said:


> @Cal, did you get to try the D1 with the line in from an ipod or the analogue/optical/coax in from a cd player without using your pc?
> 
> 
> Or did you get it to work via USB only?
> ...






 Not yet because the line in and headphone jacks take 1/4" plugs and I only have one 1/4" adapter.

 I'll send it to yah when I get home. Took me a good 15 mintutes to find one in a large enough resolution for my monitor (1920x1200). I was surprised it was not more readily available. It is my iPhone, iPad, and desktop wallpaper right now. LOL


----------



## ninjikiran

Wish you could disable all outputs you are not using, or implement some kind of switch on the front.  I doubt it has any burden on SQ though~
   
  I was thinking power issues as well but the variance shouldn't to such levels as to effect the entire system.  Fact that it distorts with no opamp is puzzling as well.


----------



## etteoh

I don't think power issues are affecting the D1. The power delivery is pretty stable at my place...I never had any issues with it with my other audio gears. I tried using some RCA caps on the other RCA input / output sockets at the back, which is supposed to help a bit with interference (or so I was told by a friend who swears by them - he has a Pass Labs - Wilson Audio combo by the way) but no luck. The distortion part when no opamp on the DAC section is present is indeed mind boggling...
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Wish you could disable all outputs you are not using, or implement some kind of switch on the front.  I doubt it has any burden on SQ though~
> 
> I was thinking power issues as well but the variance shouldn't to such levels as to effect the entire system.  Fact that it distorts with no opamp is puzzling as well.


 


 No luck and still looking for the root cause of the problem...it is only problem-free (so far) with the LM4562. I have a few other variants coming today and hopefully we can get a better insight as to how the D1 does with them. The draining issue on the DAC sounds serious. Damn! I hope there's nothing frigging wrong with mine. The DAC is after all the heart and soul of the D1.
   
  And yes, the imbalance always occur at the same volume level / position.
  
  Quote: 





middachten said:


> Any succes on finding the cause yet?
> 
> If not, have you checked what happens when you remove the tube?
> 
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

I mean power issues when said opamp is connected, once the power from your wall goes into the mav its converted to DC power which is generally regulated. That is unless the power supply is bad, but if it were I have a feeling you would be having more problems.


----------



## etteoh

Well, to be honest, the whole power supply thing did come across my mind at one point...Because of that, I tried several things that include:
   

 Removing the PK 1KVA power regulator - nada
 Upgraded the power cord (Transparent) - nada (funny how the cord itself already cost more than the D1) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



 Removing all other sources from the power strip - nada
 Plugging the D1 directly to an independent single power socket - nada
   
  I even upgraded the Coaxial cable to a DH Labs D75 but still - nada. I tried going from one source to another (CD transport on coax - PS3 on optical - DVD player on analogue-in - iPod on line-in) problem still there.
   
  It is only when the "magical" LM4562NA opamp goes into the DAC that the problem goes away.
   
  Sonofabeech 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> I mean power issues when said opamp is connected, once the power from your wall goes into the mav its converted to DC power which is generally regulated. That is unless the power supply is bad, but if it were I have a feeling you would be having more problems.


----------



## ninjikiran

Ouch you actually bought one of those crazy power cords


----------



## etteoh

Waterfalled really...I used to have a full blown hi-fi setup where I spent half of my paycheck on...those were the days of course. Having my 15-month old son around meant I was not able to indulge in that hobby anymore. So I sold off all the gears and kept only those that I would be able to reuse in a Head-Fi setup. Power cords and interconnects mainly. The DH Labs D75 was a new purchase though since I never had a proper coax cable.
   
  I didn't want to invest too much in Head-Fi because I don't know how well I would be able to adapt coming from speakers...but I have to admit, it is very engaging 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Ouch you actually bought one of those crazy power cords


----------



## ninjikiran

I would never invest much more then $5 for a power cable, no matter how high end my system.   I am likely to spend on analog cables though.
  
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Waterfalled really...I used to have a full blown hi-fi setup where I spent half of my paycheck on...those were the days of course. Having my 15-month old son around meant I was not able to indulge in that hobby anymore. So I sold off all the gears and kept only those that I would be able to reuse in a Head-Fi setup. Power cords and interconnects mainly. The DH Labs D75 was a new purchase though since I never had a proper coax cable.
> 
> I didn't want to invest too much in Head-Fi because I don't know how well I would be able to adapt coming from speakers...but I have to admit, it is very engaging


----------



## etteoh

Believe me, power cord was the last upgrade I spent on after I was convinced it made an improvement on the Krell KAV-300i I had. Before that, all I used was kettle cord since I was a non-believer in them...and a very firm one at that 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 However, that Krell just demanded every inch of upgrade money can buy. The power cord made the Krell produce better slam and dynamics which was really audible. I'm not the only Krell owner to say this as I have met many kettle cord owners and all swear by the upgrade.
   
  Oddly enough, the power cord made no audible difference on several other amps (albeit lesser) we tried - Primare A21, Exposure 3010, Audiolab 8000S and Atoll IN-100.
   
  And to admit it, the power cord made virtually no audible difference on the D1 too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  So unless you have power sensitive gears that demands it, you probably will never benefit from a good power cord.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> I would never invest much more then $5 for a power cable, no matter how high end my system.   I am likely to spend on analog cables though.


----------



## middachten

Channel imbalance could normally not be caused by a power supply issue. Considering the fact that a dual OpAmp is used, fed from one power supply. If there is an issue with the power supply, both channels must be affected.
  Distortion with no OpAmp could be explained by the fact that the signal will then go trough the feedback resistor circuit (un-amplified). With the OpAmp gone the (virtual) high input impedance of this circuit is also gone. The DAC chip now sees a much lower impedance, which again could cause a to high drain on its output.
   
  Have you tried to swap the original LF353 between the headphone and line position?


----------



## middachten

Or, just be happy with a (good sounding!) 4562 OpAmp in place.
  And forget about all these issues and just enjoy good music
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Sorry for getting overly technical in my previous replies!


----------



## ninjikiran

Not overly technical at all, but the wierd thing is it doesn't happen to mines or many others using the same config.
   
  Earlier in the post he tried all those different opamp configs. 
  Quote: 





middachten said:


> Or, just be happy with a (good sounding!) 4562 OpAmp in place.
> And forget about all these issues and just enjoy good music
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## etteoh

Hell middachten, you were overly technical dude 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but I appreciate your reply. It is always great to look at other potential source of the problem. Sometimes we get overly attached to just one area that the mind stops exploring other possible areas.
   
  As Ninjikiran said, I tried rolling virtually all the opamps and only the LM4562 the DAC seemed to like. I have another post coming right up...a more extensive review on the opamps that were recently shipped to me.
  
  Quote: 





middachten said:


> Or, just be happy with a (good sounding!) 4562 OpAmp in place.
> And forget about all these issues and just enjoy good music
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## etteoh

Finally, the opamps arrived yesterday and man I have had some of the best 5 hours of my evening rolling them in and out of the D1. The candidates in last evening’s tests were:
   
  LT1364
  OPA2107
  LME49720HA (metal can)
   
  The first thing I did was I put the LT1364 in the DAC section to test the niggling imbalance issue I am experiencing while listening at low levels. Much to my dismay, the problem was also evident with the LT1364. It is only after the 4th click does the imbalance go away. As to how it sounded, since I am only evaluating audio via my Grado cans, I can’t really say there is any. I try to listen for something different but nothing apparent as far as I could tell. I’d like to say the mids are a little more refined but I would have again been a victim of psychological effects.
   
  I didn’t want to try the LT1364 on the headphones section since it notoriously known for heat it generates and I don’t want to risk anything getting fried. I took out the LT1364 and put in the OPA2107 in place. The same imbalance crap is still there. Fearing that I may have screwed up something while rolling different opamps in and out, I took the OPA2107 out and put the LM4562 back in place. Imbalance problem went away. What???!!! Honestly, I don’t understand why myself but as I said, I’m not about to go and lose hair/sleep over it. If the DAC is happy with the LM4562, I’m leaving it in there. After all, that is a pretty good opamp so I have no qualms.
   
  Now, there was only one other opamp that was left lying around which I have not tried ~ the LME49720HA metal can. I didn’t want to test it since I don’t know what the DC offset on the headphone stage is when running this guy…but, yes but, as I kept reading more and more about it, I gave in to temptation and in the end…ah, what the heck. I took out the LM4562 from the headphone stage and in went the metal can. Power up gears, CD in, headphones on…and jaw instantly fell so hard onto the floor.
   
  Two words – HOLY HELL! Make that three words – HOLY FREAKING HELL! What is this opamp made of? It sounds bloody wonderful! If you remember, I wrote about the “blanket” effect on the soundstage when using the LM4562, well that blanket’s gone now. On top of that, the lows are even more astounding than that of the LM4562, which is already good by most standards. With the LME49720HA, I can literally feel the drivers on the Grado move when the lows kick in. Even with that kind of depth, the mids are still strong and projected just nicely on my Grado. Just the way I like my music served. Could this be the be all end all opamp for me? It sure is looking that way because while the LM4562 was great, I wasn’t entirely happy with the “blanket” effect it had on the soundstage. That was the only thing that prevented me from saying, yes, the LM4562 is the one for me. Although the DAC seemed to think so.
   
  My music never sounded SO good until now and the synergy the LME49720HA has with my Grado is spectacular. Playing Cassandra Wilson’s Right Here Right Now and Time After Time scared the bejesus out of me! Details galore, the distant reverb is something I never heard in the past and the music in general just flows effortlessly! PRaT monster I tell you! Also, for the first time ever, I noticed that the guy playing the guitar is actually moving around on stage. Sonofabeech! Just how accurate can you get?
   
  My wife who is a die-hard fan of Carmen Cuesta’s, admitted she has never heard her songs sounded so good before. She said that her all-time favorite single, Paralelo, which she is totally familiar with the track (make that her very own reference track), sounded extremely engaging! I listened and I fully agreed. Imagine that, even my wife seems to thinks so! I love it so much that I actually decided not rolling any more opamps. That is how good I found the metal can to be.
   
  I admit, the only thing I am worried about right now is the DC offset when using it but the sound is soooooo smooth, sooooooo good, soooooo engaging that I’m already contemplating on living with the unknown since I really want to enjoy my music at its best. If only I knew how to test the DC offset for this guy (*hint* somebody please?)…but everytime I put on my Grados, it makes me forget what the fuss is with DC offset. Let’s put it this way…you really want to know just how much I love the metal can? So much that I am willing to buy another Grado if it fries the one I have right now. Yes, that much.
   
  The metal can gets my very firm vote ~ two thumbs up, eight fingers and ten toes too if they count for something. I really don’t care if there is a better sounding opamp out there because I have not been able to fault the LME49720HA, regardless of what I played and how hard I tried and I have always been pretty adept at faulting something. I’m listening to Patricia Barber’s Verse album as I type and the hair on my back is starting to stand up.
   
  Ok (before you guys gang up and b*tchslap me to smithereens), I really need to stop raving about the metal can. And for the record, no, I don’t work for NSC and neither do I have any affiliation with them so don’t think for one minute I’m doing sales talk for the metal can. I know and understand we all have different ears, tastes and preferences but I felt the need to share my point of view with the rest since this is the first time an opamp has gotten me this excited. I can say with confidence that my opamp rolling days has come to an end…at least for the foreseeable near future.
   
  Have a great weekend my fellow TubeMagic-ians.


----------



## middachten

Good to read that you enjoy the LME49720 so much!
   
  The only way to actually measure the DC voltage is by using a multi-meter. The ones you can buy at sub $10 price levels are usually not the most accurate ones, but accurate enough for this measurement. Something like this: http://www2.conrad.nl/goto.php?artikel=122999 would be perfectly ok.You can often buy them at Home DIY shops and car equipment shops.
   
  Another way you could test this is by inserting the headphone plug into the D1 with an unused input selected. If there is DC on the output you will hear a noise when you 'click' into the first contact. The sound can vary from a clear click (=high DC, potentially dangerous for your headphone) to a vague noisy plop (=low DC, probably harmless). This approach is not very scientific, but it might put your mind at ease (or not 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## ninjikiran

I have been thinking of putting a metal can 49720(TO-99) into the dac output, I have a biased 49720 dip package thats biased in my amp.


----------



## uelover

interesting findings!
   
  I am just curious. If one is enjoying the sound that high DC offset is supposed to threaten, why would one need to worry about the DC offset anyway?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





uelover said:


> interesting findings!
> 
> I am just curious. If one is enjoying the sound that high DC offset is supposed to threaten, why would one need to worry about the DC offset anyway?


 


  Its supposed to threaten headphones by slowly burning the thin delicate components inside of the driver.


----------



## uelover

hahah let's see if etteoh's headphone is still surviving after a year =D


----------



## ninjikiran

If that chip has the same offset as the previous sample.... yea trouble abode 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  He probably should of gone with the LM4562 metal can.
  
  I doubt a DC offset will damage an amp though if I use it on the RCA outputs.
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> hahah let's see if etteoh's headphone is still surviving after a year =D


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> I doubt a DC offset will damage an amp though if I use it on the RCA outputs.


 

 It won't. The D1 uses a coupling capacitor at the output. And most power amps have one at the input. The word coupling capacitor should in fact be 'AC coupling capacitor'. In other words: it blocks DC.


----------



## uelover

I am using my D1 purely as a DAC only. Have recently switched back to OPA627 from LT1364 for my DAC opamp as I find that LT1364 just sound too thin when it reaches my speaker. Interested to hear more about how the other opamp will perform on the RCA output.


----------



## etteoh

Fingers crossed that it will...else we all know where my bonus will go to next year ~ a new Grado 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sorry, just love what the LME49720HA do to my music to bother with DC offset too much. Up till now, I enjoyed virtually all the different albums I played. I can still fault nothing so there you go...would rather live with buying a new Grado than not being satisfied with the music 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> hahah let's see if etteoh's headphone is still surviving after a year =D


----------



## etteoh

Er...LME49720HA metal can? But hey, don't take my word for it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> I am using my D1 purely as a DAC only. Have recently switched back to OPA627 from LT1364 for my DAC opamp as I find that LT1364 just sound too thin when it reaches my speaker. Interested to hear more about how the other opamp will perform on the RCA output.


----------



## etteoh

Unless the LM4562 metal can gives me the exact same sound as the LME49720HA, I don't think I'm gonna roll anything else in there 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Frankly I don't even know where to start looking for the LM4562 metal can...the guy that I got the LME49720HA from doesn't have it. I suppose I could probably whisk it off eBay but shipping's gonna be a bitch considering where I'm at.
   
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> If that chip has the same offset as the previous sample.... yea trouble abode
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## etteoh

Do it! Do it! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> I have been thinking of putting a metal can 49720(TO-99) into the dac output, I have a biased 49720 dip package thats biased in my amp.


----------



## etteoh

Cool! I tried the suggested approach and all I got was a faint plop so I'm guessing the DC offset is low 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can I do the YAY! thing now? I suppose nothing beats the accuracy of the multimeter but what the hell, I'm just gonna go ahead and YAY! first 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





middachten said:


> Good to read that you enjoy the LME49720 so much!
> 
> The only way to actually measure the DC voltage is by using a multi-meter. The ones you can buy at sub $10 price levels are usually not the most accurate ones, but accurate enough for this measurement. Something like this: http://www2.conrad.nl/goto.php?artikel=122999 would be perfectly ok.You can often buy them at Home DIY shops and car equipment shops.
> 
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

buy it from digikey should sound 100% the same
   
  LM4562HA is the model.  And stop spamming 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Unless the LM4562 metal can gives me the exact same sound as the LME49720HA, I don't think I'm gonna roll anything else in there
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## flexium

Question:
   
   
  Do the tube preamp output enough power to drive bookshelf speakers(75watt, 8ohm)?


----------



## millerlitescott

No.
   
  You will need an amplifier.
   
  Scott


----------



## etteoh

MillerliteScott is right. Unless those are powered speakers, you're going to need an amp to drive them.
  
  Quote: 





flexium said:


> Question:
> 
> 
> Do the tube preamp output enough power to drive bookshelf speakers(75watt, 8ohm)?


----------



## etteoh

Thanks dude! I'll try Digikey...
   
  Sorry about the spam...it was unintentional 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was too moved by the metal can to think straight 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> buy it from digikey should sound 100% the same
> 
> LM4562HA is the model.  And stop spamming


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Thanks dude! I'll try Digikey...
> 
> Sorry about the spam...it was unintentional
> 
> ...


 
   
  No worries! Its always fun to read posts that ooze sincere enthusiasm. 
  I might even be tempted to give the LME49720HA a try!


----------



## flexium

Quote: 





millerlitescott said:


> No.
> 
> You will need an amplifier.
> 
> Scott


 



  
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> MillerliteScott is right. Unless those are powered speakers, you're going to need an amp to drive them.


 


  Thanks for the quick answers


----------



## etteoh

Yes, yes, try it. Try it! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Man I'm so lame 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





middachten said:


> No worries! Its always fun to read posts that ooze sincere enthusiasm.
> I might even be tempted to give the LME49720HA a try!


----------



## etteoh

Hmmm, this thread is getting awfully quiet...so to spark things up a bit, I did some cheapo aesthetic stuff to my D1 on Monday. Let's just say I made it look Mark-Levinson-ish 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Had both the knobs, power and direct button sprayed white 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (go ahead, bash away) but I gotta tell you, personally, it adds character and I like it. I'll have a couple of pics posted up later tonight or tomorrow and you enthusiasts can let me have your thoughts.
   
  Have a great one guys...and oh, oh, just had to say it - still loving the LME49720HA!


----------



## reiserFS

It has come to my attention that a lot of people still PM me for the Skyline mod. While I'm still happy to take you through the steps, I don't do the mod myself anymore due to work. Hope this clears things up a bit.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> It has come to my attention that a lot of people still PM me for the Skyline mod. While I'm still happy to take you through the steps, I don't do the mod myself anymore due to work. Hope this clears things up a bit.


 


  Maybe you could ask Spanky to modify the Condensed D1 FAQ?


----------



## etteoh

Mav Levinson 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Image 1:

   
  Image 2:

   
   
  Image 3:

   
  There you go...my very own Mav Levinson D1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 As with all opamps, love it or bash it
   
  Have a good one guys!


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Maybe you could ask Spanky to modify the Condensed D1 FAQ?


 

 Done. reiserFS, maybe you should edit your post here:
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/446764/maverick-audio-dac-amp/1575#post_6753720
   
  etteoh that looks great! It compliments the lettering. Now you just need to get a little black on the notch on the volume and source knobs. I'll add that to the FAQ when I get some time.


----------



## etteoh

Thanks Spanky! Just one thing I need to add if anyone is interested in attempting this paint job - the volume knob on the D1 (at least mine) is a bi*ch to remove. I tried pulling it out with my bare hands so hard that I almost s*it my pants and it still didn't budge. In the end, I took a rather thick cloth, wrapped it around a pair of huge a$$ pliers, gripped the knob snugly and pull...voila, nice and easy. Should have done that in the first place. The other knobs come off easily with a tug.
   
  This weekend's job would be to put the markers back on the volume and selector knobs. Maybe I'll just use a fine pen knife and scrape the white off that portion 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Done. reiserFS, maybe you should edit your post here:
> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/446764/maverick-audio-dac-amp/1575#post_6753720
> 
> etteoh that looks great! It compliments the lettering. Now you just need to get a little black on the notch on the volume and source knobs. I'll add that to the FAQ when I get some time.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Thanks Spanky! Just one thing I need to add if anyone is interested in attempting this paint job - the volume knob on the D1 (at least mine) is a bi*ch to remove. I tried pulling it out with my bare hands so hard that* I almost s*it my pants* and it still didn't budge.


 

 I laughed so hard.


----------



## etteoh

Laughter's good! Objective achieved 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> I laughed so hard.


----------



## uelover

I have a LME49720HA coming for the dac section. How's everyone else's take on it? Don't think the low dc offset will affect the analog tube out section...


----------



## Will2007

I wanted to drop in and report that I too bought a TubeMagic D1.  I replaced the stock tube immediately with a GE 5670 NOS (from 1985).  This thing is great.  It's my 2nd DAC.  My first is a NuForce Icon, which is still going strong, but I was curious about all the great praise for the D1, and I really wanted to try a preamp with a tube (my only tubes before have been in guitar amps, where you want distortion).
   
  Not only is the D1 pretty, but the build quality of it is excellent.  Oh, and it sounds great.  I was pleasantly surprised to hear how much more detailed the mid range sounds and how much the sound stage is improved using the D1 as a DAC and pre-amp on music I've played hundreds or even thousands of times before. 
   
  Signal path:   Music files stored on VortexBox Appliance (another great device and $$$ well spent) > foobar2000 on my PC > D1 via USB (as DAC and pre-amp) > Nuforce Icon (as amp) via RCA tube output > HD600 or Denon D2000 or NuForce S1 desktop speakers.  It's sweet.
   
  I also moved it upstairs to my bedroom and tried it with my Squeezebox and Blu-ray player via optical and coax S/PDIF > D1 > Marantz NR 1501 AVR (again using the tube output via RCA interconnects) > Polk Audio Rti A1s and KEF subwoofer (my bedroom 2.1 system).  In this configuration I'm also using it as a DAC and a pre-amp.  Again, I could hear details through my speakers I had never heard before on very familiar recordings (streamed from my VortexBox via Squeezebox). 
   
  I've ordered some Western Electric 396A and some Raytheon Windmill Getter 5670 tubes to roll in it.  I've also ordered some op amps to try.
   
  I like it so much, I want one at my desktop computer and one upstairs, or even in my main HT.  I ordered another D1 and an A1 too.
   
  I e-mailed Ryan to tell him how much I like it, and that I had ordered another D1 and A1.  He wrote back right away and thanked me for ordering two more units and told me to ask him any questions I might have.  Everyone is right about his commitment to customer service and satisfaction.
   
  I'm glad to be a new member of this Maverick Audio fan club.


----------



## etteoh

Good on you dude! And no, DC offset only has a thing for headphones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I'm really keen to know how the metal can is like on the DAC. See, I only have one metal can and I ain't taking it out from the headphone section 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> I have a LME49720HA coming for the dac section. How's everyone else's take on it? Don't think the low dc offset will affect the analog tube out section...


----------



## etteoh

Welcome to the club Will.
   
  It's great to know you have been having loads of fun with the D1. I agree that it kicks a$$ for the price and like you, I love mine to death. With the right opamps (or should I say with the opamps that match your listening tastes) the D1 is all sonic bliss. I love what it does to my music and how it conveys it to me. After a hard day's work, I always look forward to an hour or two of listening time with it late in the evening.
   
  Continue to explore the possibilities and importantly, enjoy your music 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





will2007 said:


> I wanted to drop in and report that I too bought a TubeMagic D1.  I replaced the stock tube immediately with a GE 5670 NOS (from 1985).  This thing is great.  It's my 2nd DAC.  My first is a NuForce Icon, which is still going strong, but I was curious about all the great praise for the D1, and I really wanted to try a preamp with a tube (my only tubes before have been in guitar amps, where you want distortion).
> 
> Not only is the D1 pretty, but the build quality of it is excellent.  Oh, and it sounds great.  I was pleasantly surprised to hear how much more detailed the mid range sounds and how much the sound stage is improved using the D1 as a DAC and pre-amp on music I've played hundreds or even thousands of times before.
> 
> ...


----------



## Cal

I've been enjoying my D1 for a couple weeks now. Even more so now that I've paired it with a WA6. The combination of the two drive my dt880/600 and dt990/600 very well.


----------



## uelover

I will let you guys know how it sound on my speaker as well as on A1 once I have it. I guess rolling tube on my A1 would make more sense than getting another opamp for the headphone out though i hope to know how it sounds like =(
  
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Good on you dude! And no, DC offset only has a thing for headphones
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 interesting to see someone with WA6 and D1!
   
  I was at several moments as tempted to upgrade to a better Dac but could find none that offer such a great value/design/footprint as D1


----------



## lepel

i have use for 2 month , very good & happy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 to All user of Maverick Audio Tube Magic D1  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 have you post in here ?
  
 *Maverick Audio TubeMagic *user :
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/products/maverick-audio-tubemagic-d1/owners
  
 thanks


----------



## -su

I've had my D1 for about 3 months, and yes I am a happy user 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  mostly I take the tube pre-out to feed my DIY ZEN amp and my cmoy (yeah i know, not a really proper amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) and drive a DT880/250 and big-bang-of-bucks Superlux HD681,
  the pairs sound really good,
  the DAC and amp fill in the absence of mid for the two listed cans...
   
  BUT
  unfortunately for the last 2-3 weeks,
  every after a straight 2-3 hours of use,
  the DAC + amp (either Zen, Cmoy or even a FiiO E7) output volume decreased progressively and finally distorted on a very unacceptable rate.
  I also noticed that the tube light dimmed (compared to when I first turn the DAC on).
   
  Well, I have sent the D1 back to the reseller for a warranty claim,
  but I wonder if any of you guys have experienced the same problem...?
  Is it the tube faulty? or else?
  The point is I only want to make sure that on my usage I've done nothing wrong...
  avoiding things like if the warranty has expired later and I found out that the problem actually caused by my wrong usage...


----------



## Ultrainferno

Why didn't you just try another tube before sending it back? That would have been easier/cheaper, no?


----------



## -su

hmmm not really...
  I will have to spend around 20 bucks for the NOS 5670 tube here,
  while on the other hand the delivery only costs me 6 bucks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  edit: btw, we both suspected the tube is faulty in this case, are there any special treatments for a tube stage amp? I'm a noob in this tube thing though


----------



## Hifisound

Hi all,
   
  Anybody compared D1 with nuforce udac-2 sound wise ? I had almost decided udac-2 when I saw this product and I am almost leaning towards it .
  It has tube too and lots more features plus all around $200 which is my max budget!
   
  (currently have grado sr60 but later be upgrading to hd600 or sr225)
   
  Thanks,
  Hifisound


----------



## uelover

I have just gotten LME49720 for my DAC section and a Bendix 6385 tube for my D1.
   
  LME49720 sounds great when paired with WE396A on the tube out and with OPA627 from the headamp out.
   
  Will post more review on them after I get to hear more music with them. =)


----------



## etteoh

Looking forward to your review dude.
   
  Had a chat with a couple of head-fi enthusiasts earlier today and they are pestering me to give the OPA627AP on a browndog a chance on the headphone section. They swear by the combo and apparently stopped rolling opamps after using them. Honestly, I have yet to be able to fault the LME49720HA but the constant raving on how good the OPA627AP is is making me curious. I know they are expensive so I don't want to buy them only for my ears to tell me the metal can kicks its a$$. Since you use the OPA627, any thoughts to share?

  Quote: 





uelover said:


> I have just gotten LME49720 for my DAC section and a Bendix 6385 tube for my D1.
> 
> LME49720 sounds great when paired with WE396A on the tube out and with OPA627 from the headamp out.
> 
> Will post more review on them after I get to hear more music with them. =)


----------



## uelover

I have 2 OPA627 since I bought in pair. Maybe i can sell you one =)
  
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


>


 


> Looking forward to your review dude.
> 
> Had a chat with a couple of head-fi enthusiasts earlier today and they are pestering me to give the OPA627AP on a browndog a chance on the headphone section. They swear by the combo and apparently stopped rolling opamps after using them. Honestly, I have yet to be able to fault the LME49720HA but the constant raving on how good the OPA627AP is is making me curious. I know they are expensive so I don't want to buy them only for my ears to tell me the metal can kicks its a$$. Since you use the OPA627, any thoughts to share?


----------



## etteoh

Sounds enticing. Man you're poisoning me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Would you have the browndog adaptor as well? I would definitely need that too since the OPA627 is a single channel opamp.
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> I have 2 OPA627 since I bought in pair. Maybe i can sell you one =)


----------



## uelover

haha im using the browndog adaptor.
   
  i used to put both opa627 on the dac and headamp section.
   
  switched to other opamps as that combi doesn't sound that nice for headphone.


----------



## etteoh

So would you have a spare browndog adaptor that I can buy off you to run the OPA627? I've been trying to get hold of one here and it is a real b*tch. Make that capital B. Well, Grado cans are known to be forward sounding so the OPA627 might be suited to it. I'm willing to try if you're willing to sell 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> haha im using the browndog adaptor.
> 
> i used to put both opa627 on the dac and headamp section.
> 
> switched to other opamps as that combi doesn't sound that nice for headphone.


----------



## uelover

the opa627 opamps i bought are dual opa627 soldered onto browndog adaptors...
   
  so effectively, i am having 4 opa627 opamps (which makes 2 dual-channel opa627 opamps that i use for D1). =)

  
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> So would you have a spare browndog adaptor that I can buy off you to run the OPA627? I've been trying to get hold of one here and it is a real b*tch. Make that capital B. Well, Grado cans are known to be forward sounding so the OPA627 might be suited to it. I'm willing to try if you're willing to sell
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## etteoh

So sell me one  I'm serious. Your config makes it even more ideal for me since I don't have to source for a Browndog to host the OPA672 opamps. Let me know. Cheers dude!
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> the opa627 opamps i bought are dual opa627 soldered onto browndog adaptors...
> 
> so effectively, i am having 4 opa627 opamps (which makes 2 dual-channel opa627 opamps that i use for D1). =)
> 
> ...


----------



## uelover

Haha I can sell you but wouldn't it be easier to buy from ebay?
   
  This is the one i am using (OPA627AU)
  http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Dual-BB-OPA627-SOIC-DIP-AdaptorAD827-LM358-NE5532-x2-/370378336421?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563c44e8a5
   
  Saw this interesting opamp as well (OPA627AM) that cost 4 times more:
  http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Dual-Mono-Op-amp-module-NE5532-OPA627AM-OPA627-/350389651916?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5194d9c9cc
   
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> So sell me one  I'm serious. Your config makes it even more ideal for me since I don't have to source for a Browndog to host the OPA672 opamps. Let me know. Cheers dude!


----------



## etteoh

You see, I'd rather buy from you since you already have an extra that you're not using. Plus I won't need to burn it in  And...I don't have to live with the question of whether the OPA627s are genuine or not as I know a lot of those in China are not the real deal. By the way, I'm no BB expert but usually the markings on their chips are hard to read. The genuine ones at least. I have a genuine OPA2107 and that has the same trait too so the one that is being sold on eBay HK is a bit questionable.
   
  Oooh, the metal can one looks so good but I doubt if the adaptor that they are mounted on will fit into the socket of the D1 nicely as there are caps on both sides of it. A bit of a deal breaker.
   
  So back to your OPA627s, as I said, if you're willing to sell, I'm willing to buy  Let me know. Thanks dude!
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> Haha I can sell you but wouldn't it be easier to buy from ebay?
> 
> This is the one i am using (OPA627AU)
> http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/Dual-BB-OPA627-SOIC-DIP-AdaptorAD827-LM358-NE5532-x2-/370378336421?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563c44e8a5
> ...


----------



## uelover

haha pm sent to you.
   
  i am now listening to my speaker through D1 (Bendix 6385 + LME49720HA) and it sounded awesomely good!
   
  The problem with WE396A is the rolled-off highs. The problem with Raytheon tube is the recessed mids. The problem with GE 5 stars is lack of details. (they each has their own strengths too)
   
  Bendix tube solved all that and is really a well balanced tube! Switching to it from WE396A, I am enjoying the beautiful treble once more. LME49720HA works like a charm in the DAC section too. It is detailed, neutral and sounds fuller and clearer than LT1364.
   
  LME49720HA pairs well with A1 too through SS out...


----------



## etteoh

Got your PM dude and sent you a reply also  Looking forward to close the transaction with you soon 
   
  Great to know the LME49720HA works wonders for you on the DAC. After a lot of deliberation, I took the LME49720HA out from the headphone section (temporarily of course) and slot it into the DAC section of the D1. Had it connected to my stereo rig and man, it is smooth. Real smooth! I am certain the metal can is hard to beat. Regardless of whether it is used in the headphone section or the DAC. I placed another order for a spare metal can  Right now, it's gone back to the headphone section since I primarily use cans for my listening. 
   
  I might consider getting an A1 for synergy purposes.
   
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> haha pm sent to you.
> 
> i am now listening to my speaker through D1 (Bendix 6385 + LME49720HA) and it sounded awesomely good!
> 
> ...


----------



## uelover

Haha let me know if you're interested in A1 =)


----------



## reiserFS

I have two Audio-GD Sun HDAMs that are free to a new home, that is, you only pay for shipping. As I and another user have written much earlier, these take the D1 to another level.


----------



## etteoh

Have heard a lot about the A1 and particularly like how it synergizes with the D1. Might consider getting this guy in a month or two. Will let you know if I decide to go this route and we can do business again if you're letting go of yours. And if you are, do drop me a PM on the price you are looking at 
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> Haha let me know if you're interested in A1 =)


----------



## etteoh

Holy! Talk about a great deal...if only the casing need not be modified to fit the HDAMs.
  
  Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> I have two Audio-GD Sun HDAMs that are free to a new home, that is, you only pay for shipping. As I and another user have written much earlier, these take the D1 to another level.


----------



## uelover

oh my i wanna try out that HDAMs!!
   
  etteoh i have a mullard tube coming my way so i will see how they sound before deciding. if i ever do sell, i will throw in all the 6AK5 for free =D


----------



## etteoh

Quick...go get in touch with ReiserFS before somebody else whisk them.
   
  Mullard...nice. The Mullards are very fine sounding tubes. Used right, they can give your gears an excellent sonic boost...and you're making it harder for me to resist by doing the freebies thing 
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> oh my i wanna try out that HDAMs!!
> 
> etteoh i have a mullard tube coming my way so i will see how they sound before deciding. if i ever do sell, i will throw in all the 6AK5 for free =D


----------



## ninjikiran

Just run the D1 without a case or dremel the old one. Right now I am not using any HDAM, but I am using the plastic top reiser made since dirt settles on the top and not the side.
   
  Ide trade for a Metal can 49720, or a different tube just so I can mess around with the distortion.  My own SUN HDAM, imo it ended up adding static to certain highs.  I am probably don't put much stock in opamps though, the 49720 is the clearest and doesn't exhibit any oddities imo.  Metal Cans are just awesome  want to test for myself how it sounds if any different.  Though in my experience headphones don't seem as picky as good speakers.  Dunno why exactly.


----------



## uelover

just curious, spanky did add LME49720 in the list of 'bad opamps' on the first page of the condensed FAQ. o.O
  I am seeing Little Dot M1+ Gold Edition using dual LME49720HA in its circuit for headphones/iems.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Just run the D1 without a case or dremel the old one. Right now I am not using any HDAM, but I am using the plastic top reiser made since dirt settles on the top and not the side.
> 
> Ide trade for a Metal can 49720, or a different tube just so I can mess around with the distortion.  My own SUN HDAM, imo it ended up adding static to certain highs.  I am probably don't put much stock in opamps though, the 49720 is the clearest and doesn't exhibit any oddities imo.  Metal Cans are just awesome  want to test for myself how it sounds if any different.  Though in my experience headphones don't seem as picky as good speakers.  Dunno why exactly.


----------



## ninjikiran

For the headphone output, but the kind of offset we are talking about here is well within the limits of headphone amp inputs.  I doubt the offset would damage an amp(I think someone already answered this) or even effect the resulting SQ.
   
  But if you use it on headphones directly you wish burning them out over time. 
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> just curious, spanky did add LME49720 in the list of 'bad opamps' on the first page of the condensed FAQ. o.O
> I am seeing Little Dot M1+ Gold Edition using dual LME49720HA in its circuit for headphones/iems.
> 
> Quote:
> ...


----------



## uelover

yes i know someone said that before for the buring of headphone over a period of time.
   
  Wouldn't that mean the user of little dot M1+ gold edition would get their headphone burned at a faster rate since their amp has got 2 of those lme49720ha unless their circuit is better designed to decrease the dc offset of the opamps?
   
  Spanky stated that the DC offset of LME49720HA is 120/180mv.... judging from the result below... our power may trip xD
   
   
*Quote:*
  'Zero DC is ideal , _some_ is tolerable and too much is bad news. No decent amp should have any more than 20 mV of DC offset at its output.  If the amp has a big DC offset on its output it will cause a shift in the position of the headphone diaphragms which will degrade the quality of the sound and will
 prevent the diaphragm from working optimally. If the DC is_ very_ high it may even fry the coil, causing expensive damage to your favourite headphones.....   
  ...... If you cannot get the DC below say 20mV then it will be necessary to fit DC blocking output caps in series with the left and right outputs. Something like a 470uF non polar capacitor connected in series between the amps output and headphone socket will block the DC.'
   
*Another source:*
  '*0 - 15mV:* Damn good!! If you read '0V', you may have a capacitor output, or your meter is set wrong

*16mV - 50mV:* An acceptable value, especially at the lower end of this range. 2nd harmonic distortion is probably twice to four times what manufacturer's spec calls for at higher frequencies. Probably not audible, as the distortion is mostly in the upper octaves. At the upper end of this range I begin to raise an eyebrow.

*50 - 85mV:* Something is certainly amiss, and while this is not enough to put your speakers or equipment in jeopardy, the amp is running nowhere near where it should. I'd venture to guess that most of the DC-coupled amps that are in use by forum members here fall into this range.

*100mV to ?:* A high enough voltage will cause the DC protection to kick in. This happens at a level determined by the designer, but is usually equivalent to about a diode drop (600mV)or so. Needless to say, if you are listening to an amp with 100mV or more of DC offset, you have no idea what the amp really is supposed to sound like. Indeed, some amps without a differential input are actually designed to have a bit of DC at the outputs, but this is triple-rare, and I don't think anyone here owns one. (in my book it's piss-poor design, but if you can sell it WTH..)'


----------



## ninjikiran

Yea, which headphones have no caps between the amp output and itself.  But headphone amps have caps on their inputs and generally on their output as well.  Which makes my biased 49720 feasible  in my amp.
   
  That guy is using them on his dac output so I doubt it triggered any safe-mode conditions if it works.  The maverick on the other hand I guess has weak output caps for the HPA output.


----------



## etteoh

Why? Why do you guys keep making it hard for me to run the metal can on the headphone section? Why? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Sure I don't want to burn out my Grado but man, the metal can really rocks. I flinch each time I think about taking it out...and that is just thinking about it. When I took it out temporarily for a test in the DAC and had the LM4562 run its place, I cried. And I can assure you those are no tears of joy. So much so that at that instant, I placed an order for an extra metal can immediately.
   
  Well, the LME49720 may exhibit more offset in the D1 than another circuit so it would not be as damning to run headphones with it in another circuit that matches what it offers/does. Ryan should really think about modifying the D1's circuit so that it runs the metal can nicely...but that would also mean the D1 would no longer be priced as it is now. 
   
  I guess sometimes we have to make some sacrifices for other returns.


----------



## etteoh

Talking about running the D1 without a case...I'm having another one of those weird issues with my D1. See when I was busy rolling opamps, I thought it would be more convenient to run the D1 without the case until I find one that matches my listening preferences. Here comes the weird part - without the case, I only get sound through the left channel. How do you like that? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  At first I thought it was the case of a faulty opamp but when I put the case back on, voila, I get sound back from both channels. Take it off again, only one side. Put it back on, two sides. So in the end, I was like "*** it!" I'm just gonna have to live with it the hard way. 
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Just run the D1 without a case or dremel the old one. Right now I am not using any HDAM, but I am using the plastic top reiser made since dirt settles on the top and not the side.
> 
> Ide trade for a Metal can 49720, or a different tube just so I can mess around with the distortion.  My own SUN HDAM, imo it ended up adding static to certain highs.  I am probably don't put much stock in opamps though, the 49720 is the clearest and doesn't exhibit any oddities imo.  Metal Cans are just awesome  want to test for myself how it sounds if any different.  Though in my experience headphones don't seem as picky as good speakers.  Dunno why exactly.


----------



## etteoh

Pardon the SPAM...I forgot to add in my previous post that for me, good headphones are every inch as picky as good speakers. The difference going even from a LM4562NA to a LM49720HA (although they are supposedly the same chip) sounds day and night different. Headphones are just not as fussy as speakers in terms of positioning...that's cos they can't pretty much move anywhere else except stay on top of your head 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Again the difference between a LME49720HA and an OPA2107AP is a lot. On my Grado, the OPA2107AP gives out a certain glare on the mids which is not present on the metal can. This can be a good or bad thing depending on what you listen to and how you like your music served. Then there is that infamous "blanket effect" I get with the LM4562NA that is not present on both the metal can and OPA2107AP.
   
  Maybe it is just me who's being picky 




  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Just run the D1 without a case or dremel the old one. Right now I am not using any HDAM, but I am using the plastic top reiser made since dirt settles on the top and not the side.
> 
> Ide trade for a Metal can 49720, or a different tube just so I can mess around with the distortion.  My own SUN HDAM, imo it ended up adding static to certain highs.  I am probably don't put much stock in opamps though, the 49720 is the clearest and doesn't exhibit any oddities imo.  Metal Cans are just awesome  want to test for myself how it sounds if any different.  Though in my experience headphones don't seem as picky as good speakers.  Dunno why exactly.


----------



## ninjikiran

Stop spamming ,learn to edit your post =P.  As for channel differences like that go ahead and take off the ties  on those cables  on the right side of the DI.  I had similar problem with those cables at some point in time.


----------



## etteoh

I knew that was gonna come back and bite me in the a$$. Okay my bad (and I did apologize) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So I just spotted the EDIT button on the bottom left. See, sometimes I get way too excited and send a reply just to realize I've not finished with what I wanted to say. 
   
  Thanks for sharing the cable tie thingy. I didn't know that affected channel imbalance as well. Good tip! Looks like I have some work cut out for me today.
   
   
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Stop spamming ,learn to edit your post =P.  As for channel differences like that go ahead and take off the ties  on those cables  on the right side of the DI.  I had similar problem with those cables at some point in time.


----------



## ninjikiran

yea, go ahead and mess with pushing them around and you'll see how it effects the sound.  At least that happened to me when I opened the case once.  I was actually putting the case back on when things started to sound weird.
  
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> I knew that was gonna come back and bite me in the a$$. Okay my bad (and I did apologize)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## uelover

hmm. the cable tie will affect the sound? that would mean that the cable within D1 has no EM wave shielding?


----------



## ninjikiran

The tie itself doesn't effect the sound but the crimping effect does.  It seems to be a tad too tight so if you disturb the cable you might get static or a channel imbalance.  Or at least it was on my unit, since I removed the tie it doesn't happen anymore.  The tie is just to keep the cables organized so removing it won't effect the system.  They are easy to replace as well~
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> hmm. the cable tie will affect the sound? that would mean that the cable within D1 has no EM wave shielding?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





uelover said:


> hmm. the cable tie will affect the sound? that would mean that the cable within D1 has no EM wave shielding?


 


  Sorry, I had to laugh so hard at this. There's no way in hell a nylon cable tie is going to affect audio. Also, I've cut, stripped and soldered some cables in the A1 and there is no metal foil protection. It would be too expensive to implement (resulting in higher retail price) and who knows if it would even do anything. I have personally made a grounded cardboard + aluminum + anti-static bag partition to sit between the power supply and circuit board. Granted, I can't protect and fill every gap but I didn't notice a difference. I left them in though since it doesn't hurt and maybe I didn't listen close enough.


----------



## ninjikiran

Yea it doesn't effect SQ at all, but on mines the crimping force caused channel imbalances as in left side only or right side only kind of deals or horrible static
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Yea it doesn't effect SQ at all, but on mines the crimping force caused channel imbalances as in left side only or right side only kind of deals or horrible static


 
  Poor connection maybe. I've noticed some static on my D1. I've not really mentioned it and chalked it up to being a "budget" unit. It's not constant, it comes and goes and is random. Is this what yours sounds like? I'm wondering about snipping all the cable ties in my D1 now...


----------



## Will2007

I have a simple suggestion in this regard.  If you are going to cut the cable ties off, you might want to put another cable tie around the same cables, only tied loosely enough to avoid any binding or crimping of the cables, before you cut the old, tight ties off.  That way, you keep the cable neatness/management, but you do away with any possible crimping causing a loose/broken connection.
  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

The connection is good, since cutting the ties I haven't had any more issues.  I don't know if its the static your getting though, for me it only happened when I disturbed them like putting the case back on or something.
  
  Cable management is not a problem without the ties since they are in a small tight area anyway.
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## reiserFS

For those wanting to roll some famous WE396A, nostubestore.com has a huge stock available http://www.nostubestore.com/2010/03/western-electric-396a2c51.html. Bought from them several times before, great guys to deal with.


----------



## etteoh

[size=small]Exactly my sentiments. I have been thinking for a while now to rid the D1 of the cable ties. They're wound too tightly around the cables and that is not a good thing. Ninjikiran's suggestion prompted me to check on them and I found that they were after all the culprit that caused the channel imbalance. Another weekend project with the D1 [/size]
  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Ultrainferno

Finally got around to taking a picture of the Maverick Collection


----------



## yomomma1

MMMmmmmm....Nice gear!!!!
   
  I'm looking for a 'cost effective' way of getting the best out of my imac and Grado's. I hear that the Maverick gear is more steered towards AKG, obviously not entirely but my question to you (if you know of course) is what would you suggest I go for to best suit my needs? I have a little fiio e5 for when I'm on the go and have considered upgrading to E7 but would love a valve sound and so like the look of little dot gear, though unless I get the 'Q' I will need a DAC as well. Without selling my house or first born child to fund, what would you suggest?


----------



## ninjikiran

I used scissors, the thin sharp ones that you use to trim your stache.
  
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


>


 


> [size=small]Exactly my sentiments. I have been thinking for a while now to rid the D1 of the cable ties. They're wound too tightly around the cables and that is not a good thing. Ninjikiran's suggestion prompted me to check on them and I found that they were after all the culprit that caused the channel imbalance. Another weekend project with the D1 [/size]
> 
> Quote:
> 
> ...


----------



## uelover

LOL. sell your first born child to fund??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  D1 works well with grado provided that you have rolled the opamps to the suitable ones for grado. With some mix and match, D1 works well for almost all cans =)
  
  Quote: 





yomomma1 said:


> MMMmmmmm....Nice gear!!!!
> 
> I'm looking for a 'cost effective' way of getting the best out of my imac and Grado's. I hear that the Maverick gear is more steered towards AKG, obviously not entirely but my question to you (if you know of course) is what would you suggest I go for to best suit my needs? I have a little fiio e5 for when I'm on the go and have considered upgrading to E7 but would love a valve sound and so like the look of little dot gear, though unless I get the 'Q' I will need a DAC as well. Without selling my house or first born child to fund, what would you suggest?


----------



## modic

Amazing...
  How often you use each of them?
  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Finally got around to taking a picture of the Maverick Collection


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





modic said:


> Amazing...
> How often you use each of them?


 


  I always use the D1 as a DAC, the headphone amp isn't used at all. The little Bravo on top hasn't been used for a while now as I'm always using the A1 with the matched Raytheon tubes (love it). The other A1 has a recurring left channel problem, so it isn't used atm but I'm ordering some M8100 tubes to burn in on that one to see if they're better then the Raytheons.


----------



## lepel

@etteoh , thanks for your share ,
  after read it , i want to try 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  i just ordered 2 pieces of LME49720HA
   
  i will put in DAC & Headphones section  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
   
*NB *:* i am newbie , is oke i put **2 pieces of LME49720HA inside ?*
   
   
  thank you


----------



## etteoh

Hey lepel,
   
  No worries dude and I am happy you found my review helpful. The LME49720HA is indeed an amazing opamp. It does A LOT of things right and that is what I like about it. The only thing you probably need to worry about is the DC offset when running it on the headphone section. From Spanky's master thread D1 reference list, it is said that the metal can exhibits an offset reading of around 180mv which is probably damning for your cans in the long run. From your sig, you run a Senn HD555 correct? I am confident the LME49720HA - Senn combo will be a very good one since the lightning fast characteristic of the metal can will go hand in hand with Senn's mellow house sound. I believe you will end up with a very good synergistic setup. When the metal can arrives, give them a good listen and post back your experience. I (or we rather) would love to read it.
   
  I am currently doing an extensive listening test with the OPA627s which I bought off uelover (thanks mate). My initial impressions are that they are not as fast as the LME49720HA but they possess something special ~ their natural ability to extract details and make your music very musical. Let's see how things go after I have had more listening time with them and I will let you guys have another extensive review.
   
  As what a lot of other owners here shared the metal can work wonders in the DAC section also. You can get uelover's opinions as he is another one that I know who has been running the metal can in the DAC. 
   
  Have fun and I look forward to your findings on the metal can.
   

  
  Quote: 





lepel said:


> @etteoh , thanks for your share ,
> after read it , i want to try
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## etteoh

To those who celebrate...HAPPY THANKSGIVING my fellow TubeMagicians


----------



## lepel

halo @All  , i am difficult to change op-amp
   
  so i use this , is oke ?
   

   
  any suggestion or tips ?
   
  thank to All


----------



## etteoh

That's fine lepel. I use one of those myself...use your fingers for the metal cans though.


----------



## ninjikiran

Looks a little too thick to fit since the opamps are all surrounded in a tight space.  I have a pair of pliers that are thick, they seem as thick as yours which I couldn't squeeze in but the thin needle nose pair was a perfect fit.   Though if you go tin can you can get a special socket and solder the metal can into it.  Should be the same or better and removing it would be easier.

  Quote: 





lepel said:


> halo @All  , i am difficult to change op-amp
> 
> so i use this , is oke ?
> 
> ...


----------



## uelover

so funny how this threat has evolved.


----------



## LepakVT

I'm pretty close to buying a D1 to satisfy my home DAC and amp needs, but I see there is the $199 model and the $219 model with a different tube pre-installed. I do not plan on doing any tube rolling myself for a while, so is the extra $20 worth it?


----------



## lepel

etteoh & ninjikiran thanks 
   
  i use this for protect my DAC from hot
   
  i put in upper DAC
   
  is a notebook cooler


----------



## etteoh

It depends really. If you're not into rolling tubes and changing the sonic character of the D1, then you could save yourself 20 bucks. It's probably good to try the stock tube first, get used to it and then roll in something else if the need arises. Sometimes stock can be quite good depending on what you have running... 
  
  Quote: 





lepakvt said:


> I'm pretty close to buying a D1 to satisfy my home DAC and amp needs, but I see there is the $199 model and the $219 model with a different tube pre-installed. I do not plan on doing any tube rolling myself for a while, so is the extra $20 worth it?


 

  
  So, I'm no tube expert but I know people who have been tube aficionados all their lives and having a fan blowing at the tubes to try and keep them cool is NOT a good idea. Apparently this kills them faster. It's better to just let them be. As many people have put it, tubes are meant to run hot and they won't overheat and self destruct on their own.


  Quote: 





lepel said:


> etteoh & ninjikiran thanks
> 
> i use this for protect my DAC from hot
> 
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

In my honest opinion save your money and get the $199 one with the chinese tube.
   
  The tube doesn't do anything for my ears, though i am willing to to try a different tube.


----------



## reiserFS

Roll in a WE396A.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> In my honest opinion save your money and get the $199 one with the chinese tube.
> 
> The tube doesn't do anything for my ears, though i am willing to to try a different tube.


----------



## Ultrainferno

I actually didn't like the WE396a and switched back to the GE5670, maybe I should give it another try


----------



## lepel

@etteoh , thanks for your information about the tube   
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   
   

   
  after use op-amp LME49720HA in DAC   & Headphone section ,
   
   at this time is best op-amp for me ( my opinion / filling )
   
  i agree about this opinion of this op-amp like etteoh said  before  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  i am newbie in audio ,  just share user , can't  review
   
  thanks @ALL


----------



## etteoh

Very nice lepel and it's great to know you are enjoying the metal can. I don't believe they require much run-in (if any is required at all). I remembered they sounded great when they were new and their characteristics / sound didn't really change over time. Definitely keepers in my books. Happy listening!
  
  Quote: 





lepel said:


> @etteoh , thanks for your information about the tube
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

Did you buy them pre-installed like that Lepel?  If I got those tin cans I wouldn't mind paying a bit of a premium to be a lazy bum.


----------



## lepel

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Did you buy them pre-installed like that Lepel?  If I got those tin cans I wouldn't mind paying a bit of a premium to be a lazy bum.


 


  yes Ninjikiran  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 i have use op-amp LME49720HA about 1 week

 i try review song of Susan Wong

*Killing Me Softly*

 source :

 PC - Mav DAC - Sennheizer HD555

 volume at 10.00 clock

 vokal is clear

 at beginning i can hear Susan Wong breath

 guitar pick soft & clear

 saxsophone sound tunefully

 kettledrum sound the nicest one & clear ( this is i most liked )

 drum sound fit
   
   
  thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote: 





> *NB* : i use online translate , for some words , i hope not wrong translate


----------



## lepel

has someone in here compare with Cambridge DAC ? 
  
  i read in here Mav in Win 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 http://www.digitalaudioreview.net.au/index.php/audio-reviews/digital-source-reviews/item/80-maverick-tubemagic-d1


----------



## uelover

i think few would have compared this with cambridge audio dac.
   
  From what I read, even though cambridge dac is running on wolfson dac chip, many people are not that satisfied with their purchase (as compared to maverick d1).
   
   
  I have been running both the LME49720HA as well as the Bendix tube on my D1 for quite some time. Coupled with my VDH glass toslink cable, the sound reproduction are very accurate and real, sound stage is wide. I have never heard voice reproduction in my movie so real as with this setup.
   
  However, my only complain is that the sound is too detailed and the attack is too fast. It exposes all the flaws on bad recordings. Can't be help though, metal can with glass cable.
  On good recording nonetheless it sounded brilliant.
   
  I switched my tube to Raytheon 5670 and immediately the details got reduced dramatically. The voice of the singers sounded a little off (the same as for other tubes) but the overall tonal balance of the music is better for bad recordings. I guess that is the kind of sacrifice I have to make.
   
  Bendix tube sounded awesome with sweet sounding cables and opamps.
  Raytheon tube sounded best with bright cables and opamps.
  WE tube sounded above average for all setup (too bad i sold it to etteoh).
   
  Now I am wondering how will the raytheon tube sound on A1. Hmmm.


----------



## Ultrainferno

The Raytheons sound great in the A1, but so do the Mullard M8100. Not too much difference between them


----------



## uelover

hmm to what i know, M8100 sounds bright and has little presence on the low ends, making the music sound 'thin'
   
  Raytheon however, has strong bass presence and is not as bright as the mullard, making it sound 'fuller'
   
  maybe your beyer's impedence is too high XD


----------



## lepel

@etteoh use opamp LME49720HA
  
  i use opamp LME49720HA
  
  
  @uelover use opamp LME49720HA
  
 maybe other must try LME49720HA too


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





uelover said:


> hmm to what i know, M8100 sounds bright and has little presence on the low ends, making the music sound 'thin'
> 
> Raytheon however, has strong bass presence and is not as bright as the mullard, making it sound 'fuller'
> 
> maybe your beyer's impedence is too high XD


 


  M8100 are supposed to produce a fat and warm sound afaik. they're used a lot in Little Dots just for that reason


----------



## BrahmaDogAlpha

I have owned the A1/D1 for a couple months now (was following this thread behind the scenes). And I must say, I love this setup. I know everyone has praised Ryan from here to heaven...but he really does deserve kudos. I will look to him 1st if he starts making higher level gear no doubt. Amazing how a little customer service goes a long way.
   
  I am horrid at taking pictures. (no money left for decent cam)
   
                                              .


----------



## uelover

hahah nice photo! you can draw them out next time! =)
   
  i am thinking of getting a sun hdam without modding my case. will having an extension cable help? or is there anything to bypass the modding part and still get to use that in D1?
   
  i have no single tool/knowledge to mod the case.
   
  was thinking of changing the capacitors too but i have got no idea where to get them! sigh!


----------



## Dynobot

Ok I went ahead and took the plunge, I wanted something inexpensive and fun that allowed me to use the 5670/2c51 tubes I already had.  So I figured why not try the Maverick.  Just got it about 5 min ago, listened to the stock GE tube, nice, on the mellow side a bit tubey which is what I was looking for....swapped it for a TungSol a little to much edge for me and not as tubey.  Went for the Raytheon, very very nice, full bottom end, detailed slightly forward midrange nice and clear but with a touch of tube flavor.  Order a bunch of opamps..... Nice.  This is going to be a fun Dac that will offer me some variety.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





dynobot said:


> Ok I went ahead and took the plunge, I wanted something inexpensive and fun that allowed me to use the 5670/2c51 tubes I already had.  So I figured why not try the Maverick.  Just got it about 5 min ago, listened to the stock GE tube, nice, on the mellow side a bit tubey which is what I was looking for....swapped it for a TungSol a little to much edge for me and not as tubey.  Went for the Raytheon, very very nice, full bottom end, detailed slightly forward midrange nice and clear but with a touch of tube flavor.  Order a bunch of opamps..... Nice.  This is going to be a fun Dac that will offer me some variety.


 

 Looking forward to hearing your findings.


----------



## Dynobot

Day 2
   
  Bypassed the fuse.  I figured there must be something giving me this persistent glare no matter what tube I tried.  My first instinct was to look for something in the A/C so I tried different outlets on my AGD power filter.  Nope glare still there.  Ahhhh, the fuse, that single strand of 28ga wire interrupting my power source.  Stripped down a piece of 12 ga about the same length of the fuse and shoved it between the top rigs of the fuse holder and the plastic housing.  Instantly all glare gone.  Now I can actually hear the tube and the gear.  This evening I will swap out the stock IEC for a Furutech I have.  So far so good, I went for another round of tube swapping to listen for changes again under better conditions.  Right now a Tung-Sol is singing....nice deep rounded base, kind of rolled off on the top though, not too much air....over all tubey sound.  Oddly enough toslink sounds better than USB.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





dynobot said:


> Day 2
> 
> Bypassed the fuse.  I figured there must be something giving me this persistent glare no matter what tube I tried.  My first instinct was to look for something in the A/C so I tried different outlets on my AGD power filter.  Nope glare still there.  Ahhhh, the fuse, that single strand of 28ga wire interrupting my power source.  Stripped down a piece of 12 ga about the same length of the fuse and shoved it between the top rigs of the fuse holder and the plastic housing.  Instantly all glare gone.  Now I can actually hear the tube and the gear.  This evening I will swap out the stock IEC for a Furutech I have.  So far so good, I went for another round of tube swapping to listen for changes again under better conditions.  Right now a Tung-Sol is singing....nice deep rounded base, kind of rolled off on the top though, not too much air....over all tubey sound.  Oddly enough toslink sounds better than USB.


 

 Toslink on this unit IS better than USB.  It seems to be using a cheap USB interface.
   
  Though I don't detect any real noticeable difference between Toslink and RCA Coax.
   
  Taking about the fuses in your house?


----------



## Dynobot

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Taking about the fuses in your house?


 


  No I am talking about the fuse located in the IEC inlet of the Dac.
   
  See the fuse holder right above the IEC inlet where it says "Power Cord Socket"


----------



## ninjikiran

Never noticed that there haha, your telling me it effects the tube output?
  
  Quote: 





dynobot said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Dynobot

Well, its the power inlet for the entire unit....so it stands to reason it will.

  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Never noticed that there haha, your telling me it effects the tube output?


----------



## ninjikiran

I thought the SQ impact you felt was on the tube output only.  Because I have had no lucks with tubes doing anything good for me on this unit. I have the GE Stock(the more expensive version,
  Quote: 





dynobot said:


> Well, its the power inlet for the entire unit....so it stands to reason it will.
> 
> 
> Quote:
> ...


----------



## Dynobot

Yes I have only listened to the tube portion of the Dac, but any change in the direct power going into the Dac will affect the whole Dac not just one portion of it.

  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> I thought the SQ impact you felt was on the tube output only.  Because I have had no lucks with tubes doing anything good for me on this unit. I have the GE Stock(the more expensive version,
> Quote:
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## millerlitescott

I bypassed the fuse today and I am blown away by the difference in sound quality and soundstage.  Awesome just awesome.


----------



## Dynobot

Yes it is awesome, at least for me how much of a difference it made.  I know people will naturally meet tweaks like this with skepticism but if you look at the fuse the filament is almost invisible its so thin, and all your AC power needs to go through that before it can power the Dac.  Imagine a power cord that narrows down one of the leads from 12ga to about 38ga.
   
  Also the D1 likes heavier ga power cords.  Use a nice 14ga or less cord for further improvements.


----------



## millerlitescott

I am also using a VH Audio Flavor 1 power cord which may add to the improvement in sound quality.  I am just a little worried about not having a fuse, but I do not even know if I should be.  It just sounds so much better.


----------



## Dynobot

Quote: 





millerlitescott said:


> I am also using a VH Audio Flavor 1 power cord which may add to the improvement in sound quality.  I am just a little worried about not having a fuse, but I do not even know if I should be.  It just sounds so much better.


 

 Well actually many components don't have fuses.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





dynobot said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 As long as the power cord connector plug has a fuse there it should be fine I guess.
   
  Noob question: How on earth did you guys bypass the fuse/fatten the fuse cable?


----------



## Dynobot

Out of all the tubes I have for the D1, GE/Jan, RCA, Ratheon, and Tung-Sol, I must say the Tung-Sol tube is the best.
   
  Tubeyness Scale = [1] = Most Tubey
   
  Tung-Sol - Nice bottom end, good air, clear mids, just a tad rolled off at the very top [2]
  Ratheon - Nice bottom just slightly more defined in the bass than the Tung-Sol, mids are up front, good air [3]
  GE - Lean on the bass but tight, much more airy than the rest may seem hard to some, leaner than the Tung-Sol or the Raytheon [4]
  RCA - Thick sounding, less air than the rest, bottom end seems less controlled a bit murky, mids are slightly dull, highs slightly rolled off. [1]
   
  Disclaimer: I believe that changing around certain variables such as opamps etc. all plays into the overall balance of sound.  Therefore it is possible for the overall character of a tube to sound slightly different depending on opamps and other variables.  So YMMV....its always best to try different things and stick with what sounds best to you.


----------



## lepel

Quote: 





dynobot said:


> Order a bunch of opamps..... Nice.  This is going to be a fun Dac that will offer me some variety.


 

 Dynobot , thanks for share opinion about tube 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  i am waiting your opinion about the op-amp


----------



## Dynobot

Quote: 





lepel said:


> Dynobot , thanks for share opinion about tube
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 My pleasure, I'm going to have another listen to the tubes because the conditions have changed....I bypassed the fuse for a major improvement.
   
  Some opamps sound be here this week and I have a Furutech IEC power inlet waiting to be installed.


----------



## auricolari

I just bought one of these DACs myself, to use as an intermediary between my iMac and Bottlehead S.E.X. amp. Headphones are Sennhieser HD650.
   
  So far, this is a really impressive product for the price! I like it better than the DacMagic I had before, which I found overly shrill and clinical. However, the tube output on the D1 leaves me puzzled. The stock 6N3 tube was crap, as expected - I've never liked cheap Chinese tubes. Switching in a NOS GE 5-star JAN5670 definitely was an improvement, in terms of noise level and better sound quality - but given that the levels between the SS and tube out are so similar, is the tube even amplifying anything? In other words, is the tube just an add-on stage from the SS output, perhaps as a cathode follower, or does it pick up the op-amp after the DAC before the op-amp that handles the RCA outs and headphone jack? I can't imagine that it is acting as a amplifier, which concerns me. The distortion figures, however, seem too high to suggest use as a cathode follower, which would have slightly negative gain (always less than unity), a low output impedance the (the inverse of the tube's transconductance), and very low distortion (certainly less than .3% THD).
   
  Adding yet another stage between a SS output and whatever the DAC is feeding (in my case, a tube integrated) will only serve to make the sound less clear. In fact, my initial impressions are that the SS output, while not as warm sounding, has far better detail and instrument separation than the tubed output - and this is going into a SET amp (albeit a rather resolving one). However, the SS out sounds a bit too aggressive for my taste. I'd like a happy medium - the SS is a bit sharp, and the 5670 is a bit too fuzzy. Would the WE-396a fix this issue, or should I perhaps just forget the tube stage entirely, especially if it is just adding extra coloration? I'm already going in to a tube amp, after all. I don't like the idea of adding extra stages if it's not neccessary - though again, this really depends on what the tube is actually doing in the circuit. I bought the thing thinking the tube stage was getting handed off audio from the initial op-amp right after the DAC, meaning the RCA line input (which I may use following my turntable and Bottlehead Seduction) would only be going through the tube, not the final op-amp too. Very confusing.....


----------



## _Spanky_

My gut feeling doubts that the tube is used in amp form. I think it's just there to flavor the audio and attempt to remove some clinical and sterile sound. An experiment might be tried: remove the DAC opamp and see if you still get sound from the tube outputs. Or you could just ask Ryan and see if he knows how the tube is implemented exactly.


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


_spanky_ said:


> Or you could just ask Ryan and see if he knows how the tube is implemented exactly.


 

 If Ryan _doesn't_ know "how the tube is implemented exactly," I am seriously worried about my new investment.  I hope it's not like a sticking Toyota accelerator pedal.


----------



## ninjikiran

forgot the specifics but the opamp is needed for tube output. 
   
  Something like... Tube--->Gain Stage(opamp) ---> output.


----------



## Dynobot

I doubt if Ryan actually designed the D1, maybe he just buys the boards, parts etc and sells them as a complete unit.
   
  One look at ebay and its really apparent that there are a ton of Dac board makers in China...
   
  Actually it really doesn't matter, just use the output that sounds the best, if it uses an opamp, tube in or out of the path etc is besides the point.  This is just an entry level fun little tube dac, if you want something serious that holds up to specs and done perfectly right you are going to need to spend more then $199
   
   
   
  Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> _spanky_ said:
> ...


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Whoo hoo I just found out I'm getting the D1 for Christmas! Can't wait


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





lazerboy2000 said:


> Whoo hoo I just found out I'm getting the D1 for Christmas! Can't wait


 


  grats, I am pretty sure you will enjoy it.
   
  I wouldn't discount it that much Dyno, considering people tend to compare it to dacs considered "mid range"   but by all means no its not high end but its slightly better than high end sound card dacs imo.  Which by the governing law of diminishing returns is damn well in my book.
   
  I am getting the itch to replace it but I am worrying about finding my perfect headphone niche.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Does anyone know how much mA the D1 uses? I can't seem to find it on the Maverick website


----------



## Dynobot

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> I wouldn't discount it that much Dyno, considering people tend to compare it to dacs considered "mid range"   but by all means no its not high end but its slightly better than high end sound card dacs imo.  Which by the governing law of diminishing returns is damn well in my book.
> 
> I am getting the itch to replace it but I am worrying about finding my perfect headphone niche.


 

 No doubt it is pleasing to listen too...
   
  So what will you satisfy that itch with???  There are just sooooo many choices.


----------



## ninjikiran

The K702's came close as far as detail is concerned(even with my monitors I am a bit of a freak).... but I have been liking the kinds of things I have been hearing about the Audeze LCD-2.  The rave reviews on "realism" with some warmth gets me tempted greatly.  The kind of warmth the k702's are missing.
   
  Going to make the investment on christmas, if things go wrong i'll just sell them but something tells me I am going to enjoy them greatly.  I was going to test out the HD650 but...  considering price differences I rather spend that $300 more on something I REALLY want to try.
  Quote: 





dynobot said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## foveus

I just received the LCD-2's (with ALO cable) and they are quite remarkable, much much better than the HD650's (old driver and with Cardas cable) in terms of realism and everything else for that matter. My Denon D7000's however surprisingly hold their own against the LCD-2's, and at times I actually prefer their sound.
   
  Even though I also ordered the Burson 160D (which admittedly is still breaking in) I am pleased to say that the Maverick D1 _EASILY_ drives the LCD-2's. I have the volume setting at only 10:00 and the LCD-2's are singing at very loud volume (above which would be uncomfortable). By comparison, with the high gain input on the Burson the volume is between 11:00 - 11:30 before reaching the equivalent volume on the Mav D1. Likewise, on the Nuforce HDP the volume is closer to 2:30-3:00 (vertical orientation) before reaching equal volume. Regardless of volume, the LCD-2's sound great on all 3 amps/dacs.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> The K702's came close as far as detail is concerned(even with my monitors I am a bit of a freak).... but I have been liking the kinds of things I have been hearing about the Audeze LCD-2.  The rave reviews on "realism" with some warmth gets me tempted greatly.  The kind of warmth the k702's are missing.
> 
> Going to make the investment on christmas, if things go wrong i'll just sell them but something tells me I am going to enjoy them greatly.  I was going to test out the HD650 but...  considering price differences I rather spend that $300 more on something I REALLY want to try.
> Quote:
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

Awesome to hear, why did you get an ALO cable though?
   
  I use the matrix M-stage as my amp which imo is better than the one built into the maverick.
  
  Quote: 





foveus said:


> I just received the LCD-2's (with ALO cable) and they are quite remarkable, much much better than the HD650's (old driver and with Cardas cable) in terms of realism and everything else for that matter. My Denon D7000's however surprisingly hold their own against the LCD-2's, and at times I actually prefer their sound.
> 
> Even though I also ordered the Burson 160D (which admittedly is still breaking in) I am pleased to say that the Maverick D1 _EASILY_ drives the LCD-2's. I have the volume setting at only 10:00 and the LCD-2's are singing at very loud volume (above which would be uncomfortable). By comparison, with the high gain input on the Burson the volume is between 11:00 - 11:30 before reaching the equivalent volume on the Mav D1. Likewise, on the Nuforce HDP the volume is closer to 2:30-3:00 (vertical orientation) before reaching equal volume. Regardless of volume, the LCD-2's sound great on all 3 amps/dacs.
> 
> ...


----------



## djnagle

Well, I think it is time to dump my D1.  It sounds great and has ALL the features I wanted, BUT....the volume pot is just ridiculous.  It is either nothing for the first three clicks or too loud.  I just can't figure out why Ryan (who has been very supportive or his products) chose such a suck ass design.  He got everything else right....why not go the little bit extra and release the product with a normal V-pot set up.  Oh well,.....time to start looking for something better.


----------



## ninjikiran

Thats why I replaced the HPA with a different unit.
  
  Quote: 





djnagle said:


> Well, I think it is time to dump my D1.  It sounds great and has ALL the features I wanted, BUT....the volume pot is just ridiculous.  It is either nothing for the first three clicks or too loud.  I just can't figure out why Ryan (who has been very supportive or his products) chose such a suck ass design.  He got everything else right....why not go the little bit extra and release the product with a normal V-pot set up.  Oh well,.....time to start looking for something better.


----------



## uelover

Maverick D1 is bascially a good DAC with a manageable headamp. Why not just spend a little more to get a headamp to go with it?
  
  Quote: 





djnagle said:


> Well, I think it is time to dump my D1.  It sounds great and has ALL the features I wanted, BUT....the volume pot is just ridiculous.  It is either nothing for the first three clicks or too loud.  I just can't figure out why Ryan (who has been very supportive or his products) chose such a suck ass design.  He got everything else right....why not go the little bit extra and release the product with a normal V-pot set up.  Oh well,.....time to start looking for something better.


----------



## ninjikiran

sames not possible on active speakers though... unless you buy a pre-amp unit.  Assuming no volume control unit between DAC and Speakers Or a pure Speaker amp without volume control.
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> Maverick D1 is bascially a good DAC with a manageable headamp. Why not just spend a little more to get a headamp to go with it?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> ...


----------



## djnagle

If it just had a good linar ALPS pot in it, it would be fine.  It does every thing else I need.  I am thinking about just buying a good DAC and building a preamp with HP out.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





djnagle said:


> If it just had a good linar ALPS pot in it, it would be fine.  It does every thing else I need.  I am thinking about just buying a good DAC and building a preamp with HP out.


 

 you gonna build your own dac with preamp? cool!
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> sames not possible on active speakers though... unless you buy a pre-amp unit.  Assuming no volume control unit between DAC and Speakers Or a pure Speaker amp without volume control.


 

 hmm I have yet to see an active speaker without a volume pot on it.
   
  i assume that people with pure speaker amp would have a decent preamp in the first place. yeah i agree that the only thing i don't like about D1 and A1 is their volume pot as well as their gains. too high gain.
   
  i have always used D1 with the direct button to bypass the volume pot.


----------



## djnagle

Nope, I'll just buy a DAC and build the preamp.  I am looking at using the 26 tube from the pre.  As far as a headphone amp, I am looking at the Bottle Head Crack with Speedball U/G


----------



## Dynobot

Quote: 





djnagle said:


> Nope, I'll just buy a DAC and build the preamp.  I am looking at using the 26 tube from the pre.  As far as a headphone amp, I am looking at the Bottle Head Crack with Speedball U/G


 


  Good deal...
   
  Move up into a different tier of audio and you will get more of what you are looking for....kind of hard to expect a $199 product to satisfy every need.  Its a great value for what it does but at that price it can't be the best of everything.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





djnagle said:


> Nope, I'll just buy a DAC and build the preamp.


 
  SPOILER! Ryan should release a pure awesome DAC probably in Q1 of next year... I try not to give away info that I don't know if I can share but if you liked the D1 and Ryan's awesome support you might wanna wait


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> SPOILER! Ryan should release a pure awesome DAC probably in Q1 of next year... I try not to give away info that I don't know if I can share but if you liked the D1 and Ryan's awesome support you might wanna wait


 
   
  Is it going to be called the Q1?  That would follow the naming convention...


----------



## uelover

Q1 next year refers to the first quarter of 2011 -____________-
   
  hmm Spanky is that an true insider information? i might really wait then =D
  I am using my D1 nothing more than just being a DAC.
  
  Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## maverickronin

Guess I should have added a smiley or something.  As much as I loath them, they're actually useful...


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


_spanky_ said:


> SPOILER! Ryan should release a pure awesome DAC probably in Q1 of next year... I try not to give away info that I don't know if I can share but if you liked the D1 and Ryan's awesome support you might wanna wait


 

 Drat! Just my luck.  Will there be any kind of factory or field upgrade or retrofit for existing D1 owners?  Well, I _know_ you really could not answer that question.
   
  I had something really weird happen with my D1-A1 combo today.  I was listening to a Linn recording that was sampled at 88.2-24 bit, and all of a sudden there was a wild, highly-amplified oscillating sound in my 650s that got me to leap out of a recliner in my pajamas and robe to turn the A1 volume pot down all the way.  Eventually, the oscillation stopped, and the music kind of resumed, but in a greatly accelerated, fast-pitched way.  I stopped Foobar, then replayed that same track from the start to make sure it wasn't something in the file that caused the error.  I figure it had to be the D1 DAC losing "synch" with the source, and I blame the "mysterious" as you put it, USB implementation for it.  That darn little Toslink optical cable I ordered from Amazon is way overdue now, but I am_ really_ looking forward to its arrival now.   Otherwise, the D1-A1 combination sounds wonderful (although maybe a little "lusher" and "tubier" than what I am used to) through the 650s, using the D1's solid state outputs for now until I get my replacement tube and op-amps.  The A1 is so robust in output that I am toying with the notion of buying a pair of those same Insignia bookshelf speakers that you have and doing the GR Research mod on them sometime in the future.  It's kind of a misnomer to refer to the A1 as a headphone amplifier; it really is an integrated audio amp that happens to have an excellent all-tube headphone output circuit.


----------



## Dynobot

That would only be cool if it was tubed, there are enough dacs on the market as it is, but only very few tubed dacs.
   
   
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## uelover

I guess that a normal dac would allow more flexibility. You can always add a tube preamp or amp in the way.
   
  If the dac is tubed, there is no turning back, unless it is like D1 with two separate output.
  
  Quote: 





dynobot said:


> That would only be cool if it was tubed, there are enough dacs on the market as it is, but only very few tubed dacs.
> 
> 
> Quote:
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

A pure tube amp has a completely different design than using the tube as a buffer stage in the D1(if I am correct in calling it a buffer).
   
  They also tend to be uberly more expensive.


----------



## lepel

maybe that user deleted or Moderator have edit it


----------



## Dynobot

Typical message board unsubstantiated jabs.
   
  Pay no attention to baseless comments.


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


> I had something really weird happen with my D1-A1 combo today.  I was listening to a Linn recording that was sampled at 88.2-24 bit, and all of a sudden there was a wild, highly-amplified oscillating sound in my 650s that got me to leap out of a recliner in my pajamas and robe to turn the A1 volume pot down all the way.  Eventually, the oscillation stopped, and the music kind of resumed, but in a greatly accelerated, fast-pitched way.


 
   
  Hmm. Same thing just happened today listening to the HDtracks.com "Jazz at the Pawnshop," which is 88.2-24, just like the Linn recording, except this time the wild oscillation sound stopped before I got to the computer (from the same  recliner, in pajamas and robe again), and Foobar just said "unrecoverable playback error; the device (D1, connected via that modified USB driver Spanky and ninjikiran made) is not ready."  Well, it's Christmas Day _and_ it's a weekend, but I need to start composing an e-mail to Ryan.  I really don't know if it's related to sample frequency of the source material, but so far at least the loud, sudden oscillation has not occurred with 96-24 or 44.1-16 files.


----------



## ninjikiran

agreed, also my comment was @ uelover  since both are different completely.
  Quote: 





dynobot said:


> Typical message board unsubstantiated jabs.
> 
> Pay no attention to baseless comments.


----------



## uelover

ninjikiran,
   
  dynobot's comment was directed at a guy who came in and posted that Music Streamer is way superior to D1. That guy deleted his post after that which makes dynobot's comment seem out of place. lol.
   
  i am looking at Burson's Audio 160D!
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> agreed, also my comment was @ uelover  since both are different completely.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Dynobot

Thanks for clearing that up uelover,
   

  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> ninjikiran,
> 
> dynobot's comment was directed at a guy who came in and posted that Music Streamer is way superior to D1. That guy deleted his post after that which makes dynobot's comment seem out of place. lol.
> 
> ...


----------



## _Spanky_

Bah, too many posts. While I haven't gotten the "ok" from Ryan to talk about this stuff, I think he would appreciate the hype and interest generated by giving this information out. By Q1 I do mean the first quarter of 2011. I believe Ryan said March or so but keep in mind the unexpected delays the A1 had (hopefully there won't be any but you can never predict).
   
  Things I know for a fact:
  It will be called the D2 (DAC #2).
  It is a completely different circuit than the D1. The D1 is an all-in-one unit while the D2 is a dedicated DAC (more focus on the DAC means better quality).
  It will use the infamous Tenor USB chip for true 24-Bit 96KHz input.
  No amp, no tube-output.
  Inputs will be BNC, RCA, Optical and USB.
   
  Things I haven't confirmed:
  The USB input will have reclocking.
  Dual DAC chips.
   
   
  IF THAT WASN'T ENOUGH!
  *EDIT*
  Whoops, I went over Ryan's e-mail and he told me not to mention the other product. Sorry Head-Fi'ers 
  I will say that Ryan is definitely gaining a lot of momentum and coming out with some very exciting products soon. He's also being really busy with it all, I hope his infamous customer support isn't compromised.


----------



## ninjikiran

Whats the DAC chip going to be?


----------



## Alucrid

Ooh. Maverick Audio is coming out with a new dac, eh? This sounds perfect. I was probably going to pull the trigger on a Dacmagic soon, but I'll hold out and see what they have to say.


----------



## _Spanky_

*EDIT*
  Wait up for yet another condensed FAQ....


----------



## ninjikiran

Nuhh I want a clue as to what chip is going to be used in this one.  And if the pricing is going to be similar to the D1 or considerable more expensive(as in over 3x more expensive, as 2x is still reasonable margin.
  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> *EDIT*
> Wait up for yet another condensed FAQ....


----------



## _Spanky_

I had all the info there, you were just too late  Ok, I'll tease. 2x AD1955 in dual mono mode. Less than $300. No more until I get the OK from Ryan and make the FAQ with sp70.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Nuhh I want a clue as to what chip is going to be used in this one.  And if the pricing is going to be similar to the D1 or considerable more expensive(as in over 3x more expensive, as 2x is still reasonable margin.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> ...


----------



## millerlitescott

Great Ihave been using my D1 in my main rig as just a DAC and this new DAC may be a good replacement for my D1 so I can put it back in my computer rig.  I have the money in hand and have been waiting for the right product. This may be it.  Scott


----------



## Dynobot

imo no tube = just another dac among the million other non tube dacs.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





dynobot said:


> imo no tube = just another dac among the million other non tube dacs.


 


  Probably, but who knows


----------



## Dynobot

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Not referring to sound, only market segment.


----------



## ninjikiran

Would be interesting to see a pure Tube dac less than $3000.  Pretty sure it doesn't have to cost anywhere near the amount they sell it for.
  Quote: 





dynobot said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Dynobot

Not even "Pure" tubed, but something like what Maverick is currently is doing is fine.  Tube Buffer or Pure, Dacs with tubes in the signal path are rare no matter what the cost.
   
  I take it the fact that Maverick D1 had a tube in the signal path had nothing to do with the reason for buying it.
   
   
   
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Would be interesting to see a pure Tube dac less than $3000.  Pretty sure it doesn't have to cost anywhere near the amount they sell it for.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## _Spanky_

Take the tube and amp out of the D1 and raise the price to $300. For that cost, Ryan's not making a huge profit, instead he's making the circuit WAY better and using better parts. However, the tube output does make the D1 unique. I'll ask him about it.
   
  As for the D2, I've been told no giving out information until Ryan is sure of a more accurate release time.


----------



## Dynobot

Pretty sure its too late.
   
  At this day and age there is likely to be very little "New" designs for Dacs unless you go Ubber expensive.  One look on ebay tells you that China is full of Dac board makers, some very good ones too.  Why re-invent the wheel when you can buy a board off the shelf and put a nice case on it.
   
  Up until this point Maverick audio was a "tube" based company seeing that 100% of their 2 products were tube based.  Even still, moving away from the business core which is marked by products with names such as "TubeMagic" into an Ocean of non-tubed products makes Maverick audio just-another-dac company.
   
  Either way, good for Ryan.  No doubt moving into the pond where everyone is fishing "non-tubed" will likely bring in extra revenue, vs offering products in the pond where only few fish.  After all, the first rule of business is to make money.  Buffered or Pure, the reason why there are so few tubed dacs has everything to do with demand.  Looking at the other side of the equation, Scott Nixon Dac's would serve as a good example of the future for low cost tube dacs...its truely a niche market.
   
  My fair and balanced assessment....


----------



## _Spanky_

Dynobot you have good points. However I think that while there's a limitless supply of DAC's, Ryan's pure DAC will have at least 3 advantages that are not super common. If he pulls it off, it will still be a unique product. I mentioned a tube buffer, we'll see what he says.


----------



## Dynobot

Great, thanks a lot Spanky....


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





dynobot said:


> Great, thanks a lot Spanky....


 

 What?


----------



## Dynobot

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Okay, Thanks a lot Spanky Sir!!
   
  No I am just saying thanks for keeping us posted.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





dynobot said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Oh lol, I thought I sensed sarcasm  When Ryan gives the OK, I'll be sure to start work on the FAQ for the D2 and spam it on this thread.


----------



## ninjikiran

lulz Dynobot can sound jaded sometimes  but he means well.
   
  I am using his guide to set up linux to pull off my music server.


----------



## Dynobot




----------



## lepel

after several week use LME49720HA , ( in headphone section )
   
  i roll back use LM4562  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  and 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  fill different  for me
   
  roll back again LME49720HA  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  i like detail sound of LME49720HA


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Dynobot you have good points. However I think that while there's a limitless supply of DAC's, Ryan's pure DAC will have at least 3 advantages that are not super common. If he pulls it off, it will still be a unique product. *I mentioned a tube buffer, we'll see what he says.*


 


  Things look good. That's all I'll say  Anyone even considering getting a new DAC should wait for the D2 FAQ to come out (pending Ryan's approval), there's *very* exciting features.


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


_spanky_ said:


> Things look good. That's all I'll say  Anyone even considering getting a new DAC should wait for the D2 FAQ to come out (pending Ryan's approval), there's *very* exciting features.


 

 Heck, I too am in active e-mail correspondence with Ryan, but I am not in his "inner circle" of Head-Fi/Maverick Audio confidants like you, sp70 and ultrainferno.  I ordered my D1 less than two weeks ago, and then the A1 before it even arrived.  If I had known that the "D2" was soon to be unveiled, I'd probably have made do with my little NuForce uDAC-2 awhile longer to see what the D2 pre-release announcement looked like.  Any prospect of a trade-up program?


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Things look good. That's all I'll say  Anyone even considering getting a new DAC should wait for the D2 FAQ to come out (pending Ryan's approval), there's *very* exciting features.


 
   
  Do you know if it's gonna be in the same price range, or will it be more due to these "very exciting features"? The D1 is already top on my list and was planning on ordering it in a week or two, but I may hold out of the D2 is at a similar price and production is not too far out.
   
  Spanky, any chance you'd mind sending me a PM with details you might have? I was planning on making a purchase soon so I would like to know if it's worth the wait. Thanks


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





lazerboy2000 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  I'll say this to try and explain and give you a little info:
   
  D1 = all in one unit in the affordable range
  A1 = higher-end amp (better than the one in the D1)
  D2 = higher-end DAC (better than the one in the D1)
   
  The D2 should be more expensive and it's just a DAC. If you need an all in one unit right now at $200 or less, go for the D1 otherwise wait a bit and in the next 2-8 months or so see what Ryan's coming out with.


----------



## Ultrainferno

lazerboy2000 said:


> Do you know if it's gonna be in the same price range, or will it be more due to these "very exciting features"? The D1 is already top on my list and was planning on ordering it in a week or two, but I may hold out of the D2 is at a similar price and production is not too far out.
> 
> Spanky, any chance you'd mind sending me a PM with details you might have? I was planning on making a purchase soon so I would like to know if it's worth the wait. Thanks





 


Hey now, Everyone gets the info or no one does


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 How about a Meier/Headroom style crossfeed while we're at it?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> How about a Meier/Headroom style crossfeed while we're at it?


 


  I get the feeling that it's a little late to suggest features but I'll mention this in my next e-mail.


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Thanks Spanky, that's all I needed. Looks like I'll keep my plans for getting the D1 since all I really need is an all-in-one rather than a high end piece.For now at least...


----------



## maverickronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I get the feeling that it's a little late to suggest features but I'll mention this in my next e-mail.


 

 I figured, but thanks anyway.  Can't hurt.


----------



## uelover

care to tell us about its form factor?
  
  Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





uelover said:


> care to tell us about its form factor?


 

 You guys are just.... Should be the same size as other units.


----------



## ngower

I've been using my unit exclusively as a DAC with the direct pressed at all times.
   
  I'm just curious from your experiences if anyone prefers the other output, or if tube works for the DAC best? I've noticed at times the non-tube is a lot more universal in making music sound better, whereas the tube output makes certain things sound great and others sound average.
   
  Also, can it exhaust my tube over time if I have "direct" on at all times?


----------



## ninjikiran

In my experience the difference between Tube and SS outputs is not apparent at all.  I dont use the headphone output anymore(thus direct is always enabled).  I would assume speakers are more sensitive than headphones to some changes but I have never actually used speakers worth listening to on the D1.
   
  I would assume, more current flowing through the tube should increase wear and tear but I doubt its significant enough to worry or care about it.  I mean a speaker tube amp would probably go through higher loads than a tube buffered dac and I haven't heard much horror stories with tubes not lasting.
   
  The above paragraph is just an assumption though, I couldn't tell you the facts or explain the math.
  Quote: 





ngower said:


> I've been using my unit exclusively as a DAC with the direct pressed at all times.
> 
> I'm just curious from your experiences if anyone prefers the other output, or if tube works for the DAC best? I've noticed at times the non-tube is a lot more universal in making music sound better, whereas the tube output makes certain things sound great and others sound average.
> 
> Also, can it exhaust my tube over time if I have "direct" on at all times?


----------



## auricolari

Well, my opinion of this budget DAC has improved dramatically following the swapping out of op-amps and the twin triode tube. For the former, I used the two chips recommended on the product thread - whose numbers escape me at the moment. The tube is a NOS Tung-Sol 2C51.
   
  Improvements? The soundstage is much larger. Overall, the sound signature is sweeter and warmer, and the stock configuration's glare/harshness is gone. Resolution seems better as well - for example, the decay of instruments lasts a lot longer, and woodwinds have a fuller, airier sound to them. The DAC sounds great with the S.E.X. amp and a pair of HD650 cans - same goes for my Klipsch Heresy III's. This was about the biggest $30 change I've ever heard with an audio product, self-built or otherwise.
   
  For $200, this DAC is definitely a keeper. I had initially wanted to get the new Emotiva XDA-1, but the line-in on this unit, as well as the ability to roll tubes and op-amps, were what sold me on the Maverick. The only downside seems to be some weird "hissy" noises when using the DAC at 96kHz, not a big deal since most of my recordings are 44.1kHz/16-bit.


----------



## FonsD

Hi,
  How would you compare the D1 to the audio-gd Fun version B ? Both out-of-the-box configuration, I don't want to do any modification right now.
  I can't decide which one is the best (maybe there isn't one..). I can get the D1 for 240$ and the Fun for 270$, does it worth the difference ?
  it would be to drive an akg k701 and a pair of active speakers.
   
  Thank's guys


----------



## ninjikiran

The D1 is probably out of the box a better sounding unit(just an assumption based on reading prior to getting the mav.  Never heard the FUN unit in my life.) but the FUN is easier modified with extra goodies from the Audio-GD website.(plug and play stuff)


----------



## Riverback

Has anyone tried the LT1364 for the Amp section?
   
  I've tried it out accidentally once and it kinda blew me away.
  Now I'm worried since people say it runs hot when you use it as a headphone opamp (might be instability issues with the opamp).


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Just placed an order for one of these with the upgraded GE tube. Can't wait!


----------



## attenuated 3db

Welcome to the Maverick Audio Head-Fi sub-community!  So you gave up waiting out that Audio-gd NFB-12?  I've been following that thread myself (product sounds too good to be true, or at least too good to be that cheap), but getting one delivered to your door apparently takes the patience of Job, and the ability to wade through more English-with-strange-Chinese-syntax than I personally can decode.
   
  Well, given my DHL experiences, you should have your D1 in a matter of days, not months.  Good choice on the tube; are you going to replace either of the internal socketed op-amps?  One makes the built-in headphone amp sound considerably better, and the other improves the DAC circuit.  You can find plenty of guides.  Best wishes.


----------



## Lazerboy2000

I realized that I liked having the options to modify if I felt like it and also liked having the extra inputs/outputs of the D1 as well as the tube. The next best thing is the FUN, but that's another $100.  None of my gear is really "hi-fi" so it's not worth it yet to jump to something like the NFB-12 because that would just cause a vicious cycle of upgrading.
   
  The D1 will be my first "real" amp so I don't have any experience swapping out op-amps but it's definitely something I'm interested in and look forward to. I've also been impressed with the customer support of Ryan which is a big plus over the confusing chinese-syntax you mention. I've been following this thread since it first came out and am glad to finally take the plunge. It has been on the top of my list for a long time, and even though I always look for something slightly better, the D1 seemed to always come out on top with the best features, versatility, and support.
   
  Also big thanks to _Spanky_ for the awesome consolidated FAQ/thread and his detailed review. He helped answer lots of questions and I'm definitely happy in my purchase already


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:
      Originally Posted by *Lazerboy2000* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
  
     The D1 will be my first "real" amp so I don't have any experience swapping out op-amps but it's definitely   something I'm interested in and look forward to.
   
   
  It (op-amp substitution or "rolling") is really easy to do (if _*I*_ can do it, it has got to be), and cheap.   The LM4562 will make the D1 built-in headphone amplifier sound considerably better (I can authoritatively state that as a fact) and the LT1364 is the most popular choice for the DAC circuit.  A small pair of needle-nose pliers (or a chip-puller, which looks like an insulated pair of tweezers) and your index finger is all you need.  Get some recommendations from people here for better op-amp sources than the eBay vendors I used.  Although their chips worked, they took a long time to arrive, and the packaging was kind of dodgy.  Digikey.com is a popular source, but their website was too much for me to decipher a month ago.  But you can get both op-amps for about $20-30, and everybody who's done the swap swears by the instantly audible improvement.


----------



## leesure

Just unpacked my new (used) D1. I had been running my iMac's HPO to my Little Dot MKIII driving Senn HD 650's. I was feeling ver disappointed in the output of the MKIII...seemed like I was getting clipping distortion on complex passages. I was worried it wasn't supplying enough current. So I got the D1 for 2 reasons...1. To see what ha better source signal would do and 2. To maybe even replace the MKIII.

Well, the good news and the OK news. 

The good news is WOW, what a difference the DAC makes. The clipping distortion is gone...it was clearly from the sound card. HUGE relief. The bass is much improved as well. The OK news is that the Headphone amp section of the D1 as it stands (no op amp rolling yet) is very bright. It makes my Grados unlistenable and even makes the 650's sibilant. So, for now, it looks like it's:

iMac > Maverick D1 > Little Dot MKIII > Senn 650

And my wallet gets no relief. 

I'm going to read back when I have some time, but does anyone have any recommendations for warmer op-amps for the headphone section?

Also, any advantage to Toslink over USB?


----------



## ninjikiran

I actually sold my D1 for an NFB-2 and I probably wont have a dac till febuary at this rate!  But i'll survive.


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


ninjikiran said:


> I actually sold my D1 for an NFB-2 and I probably wont have a dac till febuary at this rate!  But i'll survive.


 
   
  Thanks for all of your help with the Head-Fi Maverick Audio owners, ninjikirian.  I am guessing that the Maverick "D2" DAC that Spanky has hinted at here - but Ryan doesn't want any more details divulged yet - will address some of the competition from the less-expensive Audio-gd DACs.  Their gear looks very good, design and component-wise, but they don't yet appear to be as easy to do business with for typical USA-based customers like me.  Ryan's English is so much better than my Mandarin or Cantonese.


----------



## ninjikiran

Ryans english is a ton better and while I would love to wait for the D2, based on my evolving knowledge I like what Kingwa does being both discrete and excellently designed from a PSU standpoint.  While I feel the mav will always be an awesome dac, D1 and D2 I am yet to see if Ryan will rise to that level of challenge.  Where audio-gd is employing things in their dacs that cost thousands in some western made units(relative to USA)
   
  Same time I plan on sticking to this thread, and I plan on getting the A1 for a speaker system since price is right and it will have the right amount of performance for my own needs.
   
  While service can be important, as long as I get the product and it works I am ok .  My SUN HDAM shipped rather quickly when I got it a while back but the dacs seem to be on back log.
  Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> ninjikiran said:
> ...


----------



## uelover

Haha i considered NFB-2 too but in the end went for StageDAC. No regret so far. NFB-2 has a very similar circuit to StageDAC so it will be interesting to hear of their comparison!
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> I actually sold my D1 for an NFB-2 and I probably wont have a dac till febuary at this rate!  But i'll survive.


----------



## ngower

I brought my stuff down to school with me. It spent a night in the car in cold Pennsylvania weather. Last night a couple of times the DAC shut off (made the click noise) and then came on again. I'm not sure if it was my USB cable just being funky or if it was something with the DAC itself, but has anyone experienced anything like this?


----------



## eclein

I have GF DAC-09 and get the click if it barfs at high rez files, or tries to playback multi channel sound. Not sure if that helps.


----------



## ngower

Come to find out it's my amp. The light starts blinking orange, which would indicate it has either overheated or the impedemence of the speakers is too low. Considering I just turned it on and my room is room temp, that can't be the case. Also, I've had these speakers for a while without the issue so that rules that out...really odd, no clue what's going on.


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Wow I can't believe how fast it shipped. Just too bad I wasn't there when they tried delivering it!!! I got an email notice yesterday that it was shipped, and when I got home from work today I had a notice that they tried delivering it at 1230PM. Hopefully it'll be here tomorrow!!!!!


----------



## attenuated 3db

DHL (A German company) has a corporate motto (they may have several, but this one is most prominent): "No one knows China like we do."  I've waited longer to receive something mailed USPS express/certified/speed-of-light from within the USA than I had to wait for either my D1 or A1.  In my case, DHL called early morning to make sure someone would be home for delivery.  Hope you get your package tomorrow.
   
  Quote:


lazerboy2000 said:


> Wow I can't believe how fast it shipped.


----------



## Mysteek

To new owners--remember to burn it in!  A lot of reviews I have read say that it sounds disgusting at first then overnight it magically becomes amazing


----------



## Lazerboy2000

I got it in today and finally just got it setup. It looks great and is well built. I'll let it burn in before i give any sound impressions. 
   
  One thing I notice is that if I have active speakers hooked up via the tube-out, the speakers still play even when I plug headphones in. I was really hoping that having headphones in would mute the speakers. Is there anyway to make this possible?
   
  Also, where the hell can I find a 6inch maleRCA to maleRCA cable? I'm looking all over but can't find anything shorter than a foot. I just need a simple RCA interconnect between the Maverick and my Bravo V2 amp


----------



## attenuated 3db

Plugging phones into the D1 headphone jack doesn't have the typical mute-the-speaker effect since you're only using it as a preamp; the Maverick A1 integrated amplifier behaves that way.  You'll just have to turn your separate amp off or dial the volume pot down all the way if you want to use the D1's headphone output without powering your speakers as well.  
   
  I've never seen a pre-made 6-inch RCA-to-RCA interconnect, but I haven't seen a lot of things that actually exist somewhere in the world.  I wouldn't worry about signal degradation from a one-foot interconnect, if you can stand to tuck the excess cable away unobtrusively.
   
  Welcome to the Maverick Audio Head-Fi owners club.  If you are going to use the D1's headphone output, I would highly recommend you get an LM4562 op-amp to swap for the one socketed near the headphone jack; it will signficantly improve the SQ of that output.  There are numerous vendors, but you can find a description of the LM4562 and ordering instructions at the bottom of this page:
   
http://www.audiophileproducts.com/opamps
   
  If you want to replace the other socketed op-amp for the DAC circuit near the tube, there are several options for that.  Read Spanky's first post in the monster consolidated D1 FAQ thread.


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Thanks for your help. There isn't any way to mod it so the speakers do mute when headphones are in is there? My current speakers have their volume control so I can mute them, but I was hoping to get some KRK RP5s eventually which would need the preamp. Maybe I could just install a switch or volume inbetween the pre-out and the speakers and mute them that way?
   
  I'm not worried about degradation, it'd just be nice to have a short simple interconnect. I have enough clutter as is.
   
  I'll definitely check looking into swapping opamps since I will mostly use this as a headphone amp.


----------



## Mysteek

I'm trying to find a LM4562 in Canada but I'm finding it so hard =(


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


mysteek said:


> I'm trying to find a LM4562 in Canada but I'm finding it so hard =(


 
   
  The link I posted above is for a company located in Calgary, Alberta.  We routinely ship between the lower 48 states down here, don't your provinces exchange mail with each other?


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


lazerboy2000 said:


> Thanks for your help. There isn't any way to mod it so the speakers do mute when headphones are in is there? My current speakers have their volume control so I can mute them, but I was hoping to get some KRK RP5s eventually which would need the preamp. Maybe I could just install a switch or volume inbetween the pre-out and the speakers and mute them that way?


 
  Well, you have two sets of pre-amp outputs on the D1, tube and solid state, so they could run into different inputs in whatever speaker-driving amplifier you are using (I presume we're not talking about the Bravo here), and then mute the speakers by just switching your amplifier to a different input.  Or are we talking about self-powered speakers here, like Audioengines?  Well, I don't know of any internal modification I'd be willing to try inside the D1 to achieve your goal, which can be accomplished relatively easily some other way. 
   
  OK, now that I see what a KRK RP5 is, it's like an Audioengine.  I couldn't see the back panel, but I would think it would have to have a power switch since it plugs into an AC outlet for power.  Flipping that off when you just want to listen to headphones on the D1 would be preferable to putting any sort of switch or volume pot in the signal path between the D1 and any powered speaker.


----------



## luke2112

Hi All,
   
  I've owned a D1 for a few months now and am loving it with a WE396A tube. I use the tube output exclusively into powered speakers, but have recently been using the headphone amp quite a lot as well. After reading about the mods here, I have now ordered 2 x LT1364 opamps, although they are on backorder and I won't have them for a couple of weeks yet. I have been reading about the popularity of the LM4562 and OPA627 opamps and am considering grabbing some of those as well.
   
  I just have a few questions:
   

 Any of the opamps I have mentioned above can be used in any of the Amp or DAC opamp sockets? The LT1364/DAC and LM4562/Amp suggestion in the FAQ is just a guideline? They could be swapped around?
 The LT1364 doesn't seem to get a lot of love as an Amp opamp. I am using Alessandro MS-Pro's, and given that I don't use the SS DAC output, I am thinking I should cancel the LT1364 order and go wtih the LM4562/Amp only. Thoughts?
 Anyone using the OPA627 in the Amp section and thoughts on it's performance?
 Has anyone ordered opamps from Tam Audio (a.k.a. Coolfungadget)? This price seems a little too good - fake? http://coolfungadget.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=80
 Is the OPA2627 SuperChip on this page - http://www.audiophileproducts.com/opamps - the same as a dual OPA627 with Browndog adapter? And a preferable option?


----------



## Mysteek

I checked there but it's out of stock =(
  
  Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> mysteek said:
> ...


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


mysteek said:


> I checked there but it's out of stock =(
> 
> Quote:
> 
> ...


 


  Digikey appears to have them in stock, and for only $3.05 each:
   
   
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=LM4562NA-ND
   
  I wish I had gotten mine from them rather than the Hong Kong-based eBay vendor I bought from.  Paid three times as much and waited an eternity for it to arrive.


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


luke2112 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I've owned a D1 for a few months now and am loving it with a WE396A tube. I use the tube output exclusively into powered speakers, but have recently been using the headphone amp quite a lot as well. After reading about the mods here, I have now ordered 2 x LT1364 opamps, although they are on backorder and I won't have them for a couple of weeks yet. I have been reading about the popularity of the LM4562 and OPA627 opamps and am considering grabbing some of those as well.
> 
> ...


 

 You need to talk to one of the Maverick Audio Head-Fi op-amp/tube rolling experts, of which I am not one.  Spanky hasn't posted in awhile, maybe this will attract his attention.  I know that "DC offset" is a critical consideration in whatever op-amp is used in the headphone output stage, to prevent possible damage to your cans.  I used the LM4562 and LT1364 combination just because a clear, large consensus had developed that this was a stable, safe, good-sounding pair of chips to use.  In my reading, the subject of op-amp "rolling" is not entirely without controversy, as this post indicates, which was closely followed by an agreeing sentiment from Head-Fi legend "Uncle Erik" -
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/504503/is-it-really-worth-upgrading-sennheiser-hd-580-600-650-cables/30#post_6831747
   
  So, seek sage counsel.  I don't know what Ryan's policy is on op-amp substitutions and warranty status; you could try e-mailing him with your ideas and see what he says.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Try searching this thread, it's been discussed in several posts. I'm sorry but I can't remember the details.
  I just have the combo most of us have. There do is some info on the first FAQ page about opamp rolling as well.
   
  And no, I'm not selling all my Mavaudio gear, just one A1. I'm so keeping the D1 DAC!


----------



## _Spanky_

Opamp rolling doesn't void warranty. That's why there's sockets there. As far as doing the actual swapping, read the FAQ. Anything that's been tested and reported is in there. If it's not in there, you better have balls the size of the liberty bell or a multimeter to test DC Offset.
   
  Sorry I don't post much anymore. I still lurk but only speak when needed  I'm quite content with my audio setup now thanks to Ryan.


----------



## n19htmare

I'm having a really hard time deciding between this and the ZERO dac/amp.
   
  As far as I can tell, the tube in the maverick has nothing to do with the headphones amp.... so grrr what to do!


----------



## _Spanky_

n19htmare, I was in your EXACT position. I chose the slightly higher price of the Maverick D1 over the Zero. The Zero used to be a great unit but their quality went downhill and units died. Not many received support and their money was pretty much wasted. If something goes wrong with a Maverick Audio product, Ryan works very hard to make sure the customer is satisfied. That won it over for me. You may not use the tube output now but some day down the road, you might get a tube amp and that would be a pretty neat feature then.


----------



## Mysteek

While it's a great price, shipping is $20 since its from the USA--I'm not sure if I can still go cheaper by buying in Canada.
   
  Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> mysteek said:
> ...


 


> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=LM4562NA-ND
> 
> I wish I had gotten mine from them rather than the Hong Kong-based eBay vendor I bought from.  Paid three times as much and waited an eternity for it to arrive.


----------



## Riverback

I don't know what's with all the Opamp combinations, but when I emailed Ryan, this is what he said:
  Quote: 





> One OpAmp is used for headphone, the other one is used for analog output. The one close to the headphone output is the one for the headphone output. If you only use the headphone output on the DAC, you only need change the one close to the headphone output.
> 
> I am not sure if I answered your question. Do let me know if you have any further question.
> 
> ...


 
   
  So I'm guessing the DAC opamp and the Headphone Opamp don't touch each other. The DAC Opamp most likely is for the Tube Pre-out and the Headph opamp is for the Headphone out, since you'll still need some amplification to get the signal to Line-Out level.
   
   
  1) Yes. From memory, the last time I tested it the LT1364 for the amp section measured around -3 mV per channel. I'm not sure if that's low enough but some people say below 20mV is good enough per channel.
   
  2) I tried using the LT1364 with my MS-1's and my Beyer DT250's. Honestly, it lacked a little bit of control. I felt as if my bass was bloated and all over the place. I went back to using the LM4562 as my default Amp opamp.
  3) I haven't tried it. Might try it tonight, Although some people report some loss in detail
  EDIT: Tried it, DC offset is 50.2/51.7 mV. Borderline Dangerous, so I'm not risking it =\
   
  Note: I got my info here: http://www.rock-grotto.co.uk/dcoffset.htm
  
  Quote:   


luke2112 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I've owned a D1 for a few months now and am loving it with a WE396A tube. I use the tube output exclusively into powered speakers, but have recently been using the headphone amp quite a lot as well. After reading about the mods here, I have now ordered 2 x LT1364 opamps, although they are on backorder and I won't have them for a couple of weeks yet. I have been reading about the popularity of the LM4562 and OPA627 opamps and am considering grabbing some of those as well.
> 
> ...


----------



## uelover

Hi Riverback!
   
  The opamp at the DAC section will be affecting the sound on the analogue output at the back as well as the headamp output at the front *as long as you are using the DAC component *in Maverick, i.e, via Optical/Coax/USB input.
   
  If you are using the DAC on Maverick, any changes in the DAC section opamp will change the sound coming out from the headamp as well. Thus, pairing the DAC opamp and the Headamp section opamp is very important too.
   
  The best DAC section opamp is still LME49720HA and OPA627. LT1364 sounds a little dry and lifeless to me from my memory.
   
  If you are using analogue input/line-in, the DAC section opamp will not affect the sound on the headamp.


----------



## _Spanky_

uelover for the win! (I agree)


----------



## luke2112

Well I also emailed Ryan and got a response similar to Riverbank's:
   
  "Since you only use the DAC with your headphone, you only need to switch the OpAmp close to the headphone output. You don't need to switch another OpAmp as it is for the analog output."
   
  But uelover says that the DAC opamp is also used when using the Headphone output, _if you are using the DAC section _(which I am, via USB), and that actually makes more sense to me. Hard to go against the word of the guy who runs Maverick Audio, but anyway I have cancelled my order of the LT1364 and now have two LM4562's on the way.
   
  I would like to try the LME49720HA (DAC) and OPA627 (Amp), but I would like to get 2 x OPA627AU on an adapter preconfigured and ready to go, and all the eBay ones seem awfully cheap (and probably fake). I am in Australia and not sure where to source such an item at a reasonable (found one for $100 - bit too steep).


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





luke2112 said:


> I am in Australia and not sure where to source such an item at a reasonable (found one for $100 - bit too steep).


 

 For that price, you could get setup with HDAM's from AudioGD.


----------



## luke2112

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> For that price, you could get setup with HDAM's from AudioGD.


 
   
  Good point. I wasn't that keen on the extra effort of socket stacks and case dremmeling, but if it's sonically superior to the LME49720HA and OPA627 combo, I'd certainly make the effort.
   
  Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *uelover* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> The best DAC section opamp is still LME49720HA and OPA627. LT1364 sounds a little dry and lifeless to me from my memory.


 

 uelover, did you ever try 2 x Audio-GD Sun HDAM's? If so, were they better than the LME49720HA and OPA627 combo?
   
  Thanks all for the help!


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


luke2112 said:


> uelover, did you ever try 2 x Audio-GD Sun HDAM's? If so, were they better than the LME49720HA and OPA627 combo?


 

 This Head-Fi-er no longer performs the SUN HDAM D1 mod for others, but you can read about his efforts and impressions here:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/446764/maverick-audio-dac-amp/1650#post_6788132


----------



## Riverback

From what I can tell, the headphone opamp changes the sound most.
   
  I'm still testing out if the DAC op-amps have any noticeable changes to the sound (testing LT1364, OPA627, and LME49720HA) since you can pretty much run the headphone out without the DAC Opamp.
   
  There are some forums on the web that say the LME49720 and the LM4562 is the same chip. Confused? Yes I am =\
  EDIT:
  http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/107344-lme49720-vs-lm4562.html
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/521972/lm4562-lme49720-lme49860-do-they-sound-different-to-you
   
  Apparently, they're the same chip just different marketing. the LME49720HA might be a bit better due to the metal can having some RF shielding.


----------



## luke2112

Quote: 





riverback said:


> the LME49720HA might be a bit better due to the metal can having some RF shielding.


 

  
  Yes, that's the way I read the comparisons as well. Thanks for the info.
  
  Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> This Head-Fi-er no longer performs the SUN HDAM D1 mod for others, but you can read about his efforts and impressions here:
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/446764/maverick-audio-dac-amp/1650#post_6788132


 

 Yes, I did read the Sun HDAM mod info, and (despite all the questions I have now) I have read this entire thread and the FAQ completely. Was still just unsure about a few things since I am completely new to opamp rolling. I was also a little confused due to some members promoting a certain opamp and others warning against it due to unstable DC offset values.
   
  At this stage, I am going to await my LM4562's, and then decide from there where to go.
   
  I would still like to know what is better; LME49720HA / OPA627 combo vs. 2 x Sun HDAM, but I think I will just to have to find out for myself!
   
  I assume this - http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0813115&cm_vc=prev_au - would be a suitable DIP8 IC socket to mount the Sun HDAM's in? Any other better places in Australia to acquire these?
   
  Also, the object of placing another socket into the existing socket is to provide height to allow the bulky HDAM to fit?


----------



## djnagle

Hi Guys, it's been a while since I've posted.  I was going to sell my D1 because the volume controls is still driving me crazy.  Nothing for three clicks and the forth click is almost too loud.  BUT, I've listen to other DACs of friends of mine and the D1 is still sounding way better.  AND, I've not modded the chips yet.  So I guess I will put up with the volume control for now.  Has anyone put a linar volume pot in their D1?  One with no clicks?


----------



## Ultrainferno

What input do you use on the D1? Maybe use your pc's volume control?
  Can't you just bypass the the volume (direct button) and adjust the volume on another device?


----------



## uelover

I have never tried Sun HDAM as that would require modding the casing as the HDAM is really tall and will not fit into the original enclosure.
   
  I recommended OPA627 and LME49720HA because I only have this limited number of opamps and they sounded better at the DAC section as compared to other opamps. All the opamps (except LME49720HA) mentioned in this 144 pages thread are safe to be used in either the headamp/dac section as they have relatively low DC offset.
   
  A very safe option to go for would be OPA627 and LM4562 as the sound is very full and relatively balanced across all frequencies.
   
  You can also explore other opamps and perhaps contribute your discovery here too! 
  I have sold my D1 to Riverback and so I am basically out of business here


----------



## djnagle

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> What input do you use on the D1? Maybe use your pc's volume control?
> Can't you just bypass the the volume (direct button) and adjust the volume on another device?


 


 Well, my D1 tents to move about the house.  I have a 1.5TB external hard drive that goes with it.  When I am at the computer, I have it hooked up to my amp and play tunes through the Tube pre.  Late at night I use it with headphone.  Sometimes I use it in my main system where I use the Tube pre as my main pre amp and have my TT hooked up through the RCAs, I have my CD player hooked up through the CoAx, and my music server (with the ExHD) hooked up through the USB.  In most cases I am using the volume control as the computer hook ups are by-passing the computers music controlers.
   
  Maybe it is time to take a hard look at this issue and find a solution.


----------



## ninjikiran

While I wont have the same headphones for reference but i'll have a new dac, the NFB-2.  It has no volume control though since its a straight dac.
  Quote: 





djnagle said:


> Hi Guys, it's been a while since I've posted.  I was going to sell my D1 because the volume controls is still driving me crazy.  Nothing for three clicks and the forth click is almost too loud.  BUT, I've listen to other DACs of friends of mine and the D1 is still sounding way better.  AND, I've not modded the chips yet.  So I guess I will put up with the volume control for now.  Has anyone put a linar volume pot in their D1?  One with no clicks?


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> While I wont have the same headphones for reference but i'll have a new dac, the NFB-2.  It has no volume control though since its a straight dac.


 
   
  Ninjikirian, you said you were going to keep your Maverick A1 as a speaker amplifier; what are you going to use to drive your headphones when the NFB-2 arrives?  I have to admit, I have been reading up on it, and it is really impressive.  Read the paragraph right under the fifth pair of pictures in this review:
   
http://www.digitalaudioreview.net.au/index.php/audio-reviews/digital-source-reviews/item/177-audio-gd-nfb-2-dac-19-series
   
  I am hoping Ryan will announce details of the rumored "D2" soon; I would like to remain a loyal Maverick customer, but using my A1's excellent tube headphone amplifier section, the tube preamp of the D1 is of no big value in my current configuration, I don't need all of its control flexibility or multiple input/outputs or the built-in headphone amp.  And Kingwa's circuit design and engineering prowess is awesome.  Multiple, regulated, filtered power supplies inside the same chassis for different stages of the DAC circuit might be overkill, but it sure can't hurt the SQ.  Anyway, thanks for talking me through how to remove that modded driver for the D1 and go with standard MS USB Audio device.  My Teralink X2 still hasn't gotten here from Hong Kong, but hopefully it will soon.


----------



## ninjikiran

I don't have an A1 but interested in owning one when I buy speakers one day.  Granted if they need amping and are not powered/active.
   
  As for my HPA, I have been using the Matrix M-Stage since the summer and its a better amp than what was built into the D1 as well as having better pre-amp  control(volume knob is higher quality).  Might upgrade that to, depending on how the lyr schitt reviews with the LCD-2's.
   
  Also np~


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


ninjikiran said:


> I don't have an A1 but interested in owning one when I buy speakers one day.  Granted if they need amping and are not powered/active.
> 
> As for my HPA, I have been using the Matrix M-Stage since the summer and its a better amp than what was built into the D1 as well as having better pre-amp  control(volume knob is higher quality).  Might upgrade that to, depending on how the lyr schitt reviews with the LCD-2's.


 
   
  Oh, I misunderstood.  I just picked up a pair of Insignia NS-B2111 speakers Friday at BestBuy because they were on-sale for $70, and by Sunday they were back at $90.  I was ambivalent about it, because my neighbors are really sensitive to any audible noise (sometimes I catch myself kind of "holding my breath" in my own apartment), but I wanted to hear how the A1 could drive speakers, as project86 used them in his A1 review:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/513019/review-maverick-audio-tubemagic-a1-integrated-amp-pre-amp-headphone-amp
   
  ... and there is a great DIY upgrade kit available from them from GR Research.  Spanky has a pair with his A1.  But I haven't even hooked them up yet; making some speaker cables tonight.   If you (or anyone) is considering a Maverick A1, ultraniferno is selling one his two units (keeping the one with his loved Mullard tubes), and I promised that I would shill for him to find a buyer. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
   
  That Schiit Lyr is a beast of a headphone amplifier; I knew orthos need a lot of power, but you could almost run an efficient pair of speakers with that thing.
  
  Any word on when your NFB-2 will arrive? I don't want to corrupt a Maverick thread, but since I feel like I "know" you from all of your posts about the Maverick D1 long before I joined Head-Fi and began posting myself, I will be really curious about your listening evaluation of it.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *attenuated 3db* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> If you (or anyone) is considering a Maverick A1, ultraniferno is selling one his two units (keeping the one with his loved Mullard tubes), and I promised that I would shill for him to find a buyer.


 


  Thanks Mister!  You'll have to hurry tho, cause if I'm not getting better offer withing the next 4 hours it will be gone


----------



## djnagle

I have the Insignias (stock) on my desktop and run them with the D1 into a 6LR8 set amp.  They sound great stock but at some point in time I would like to do the GR upgrade.  I've not heard it, but looking at the plots, it looks like it would be a well spent $90.
   
  Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> ninjikiran said:
> ...


----------



## ninjikiran

Won't be for a while till I can make any determination.  I have no headphones atm, still on pre-order.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Audeze lcd-2?


----------



## ninjikiran

Yea
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Audeze lcd-2?


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Yea
> Quote:
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Lucky guy! I hope you won't have to wait too long


----------



## ninjikiran

Not gonna lie my new rig feels rather sexy and secure on top of that.  I got an overpriced power box to keep my gear safe on top of all this (Belken PF60)
  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## luke2112

Quote: 





uelover said:


> A very safe option to go for would be OPA627 and LM4562 as the sound is very full and relatively balanced across all frequencies.
> You can also explore other opamps and perhaps contribute your discovery here too!


 

 Well since you all put up with my incessant posting and pestering about opamp upgrades, I thought I would let you know that exchanging the stock opamps for LM4562NA's has made an easily noticeable improvement to the headphone performance. Certainly "less shrill" as the FAQ puts it, with an overall richer sound, more body and control. Gives the Alessandro MS-Pro's a fuller sound with greater bass extension.
   
  This is where I bought them - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160496917340&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT - no, I cannot vouch for their authenticity, but with the improvement in sound, I am hoping I have purchased genuine units.
   
  Am now deciding on my next move. I have a feeling it will be 2 x Audio-GD Sun HDAMs. And a dremel


----------



## ninjikiran

You only need one for the headphone output.. the designer knows best  everything else is placebo.
   
  But imo the SUN Hdam just makes it brighter, more sibilant.


----------



## reiserFS

I'd also suggest just putting one in the headphone output section. The SUN HDAM was glorious with my K701.
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> You only need one for the headphone output.. the designer knows best  everything else is placebo.
> 
> But imo the SUN Hdam just makes it brighter, more sibilant.


----------



## uelover

I find that the Opamp on the DAC section does impact the sound coming out from the headphone output after playing around the various opamps on my previous D1 setup. I think Spanky feel likewise too. Don't think it is the placebo effect but I am not sure why the designer (Ryan) himself mentioned that there will be no effect though. I have no D1 with me now so I can't do a confirmation test for my memory.
   
  Audio GD Sun HDAM or the HDAM from Burson Audio may be some of the best opamps out there for D1 but they may require extra hardwork and effort on your part.
   
  reiser, I may be going after your path =))


----------



## ahmdamz

Hello, I would like to know how much of a difference does 16/44.1 usb input makes compared to 24/96? The D1 seems to have everything that i am looking for. But just because of this little thing i am not sure if i should get the D1 or HUD MX-1. I'm currently using my crappy realtek onboard and HD201. After DAC, the next step would be to get some 2.0 speakers (swan d1080mkii 08) and headphones.


----------



## ninjikiran

Because they are not linked at all.
   
  assume you have spdif input...
   
  Spdif Interface ---> Dac Chip(it splits here) ---> Gain Stage RCA Output(splits again for tube output) ---> RCA outputs
                                                                ---> Gain Stage HPA output ---> HPA output
   
  The change in sound if any would be would be power draw.
   
  The opamps are used for gain only, and it wouldn't force it through two different stages like that before splitting..
   
  Not trying to discredit anyone, but in this situation its not so much a thing of "do cables change audio" as it is how can you hold something in your hand when its sitting on the desk behind you.
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> I find that the Opamp on the DAC section does impact the sound coming out from the headphone output after playing around the various opamps on my previous D1 setup. I think Spanky feel likewise too. Don't think it is the placebo effect but I am not sure why the designer (Ryan) himself mentioned that there will be no effect though. I have no D1 with me now so I can't do a confirmation test for my memory.
> 
> Audio GD Sun HDAM or the HDAM from Burson Audio may be some of the best opamps out there for D1 but they may require extra hardwork and effort on your part.
> 
> reiser, I may be going after your path =))


----------



## uelover

What you said made sense but that would also imply that D1 would work without an opamp in the DAC section if we are using the headamp section only.
   
  Can anyone confirm this? If D1 won't work it will mean that the signal flow is
  SPDIF --> DAC Chip --> DAC Gain Stage--> HPA Gain Stage --> HPA Output
   
  The signal split will be at the DAC Gain Stage instead of the DAC Chip.
   
  I got no D1 but am just interested in how it works =)


----------



## ninjikiran

I have, the D1 does indeed work without an opamp on the RCA outputs(center opamp) with the headphone output.
   
  Well a little bit more complex than purely power draw, there is a possibility that having an opamp in the socket could change the output on the dac itself which could effect the overall signature but at the same time the properties of the opamp itself is not being used to influence it as is the elelectrical properties of the dacs output (impedence, ect ect).  Since different opamps have their own properties and work the dac's output in slightly different ways. 
   
  I couldn't explain that properly though, not my area of expertise.  Being a pure dac I doubt the D2 will see these kinds of issues though personally I didn't detect much if any problems.
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> What you said made sense but that would also imply that D1 would work without an opamp in the DAC section if we are using the headamp section only.
> 
> Can anyone confirm this? If D1 won't work it will mean that the signal flow is
> SPDIF --> DAC Chip --> DAC Gain Stage--> HPA Gain Stage --> HPA Output
> ...


----------



## uelover

Sounded like an inefficient circuit design where there are unwanted interference from other 'components'. Maybe not having anything in the center opamp will clean up the sound by a bit?
   
  I remembered Spanky in the condensed faq posted of how the combination of DAC Opamp + HPA Opamp results in different sound signature in the HPA output. Maybe he should change that if it can be said that DAC Opamp plays no role in determining the sound from HPA output (as confirmed by Ryan).


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Nudge nudge wink wink....I'm selling my like-new Maverick D1 w/ the upgraded GE 5670 tube for a bargain in the exchange.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:  





> I remembered Spanky in the condensed faq posted of how the combination of DAC Opamp + HPA Opamp results in different sound signature in the HPA output. Maybe he should change that if it can be said that DAC Opamp plays no role in determining the sound from HPA output (as confirmed by Ryan).


 

 I changed them both at the same time, I wasn't going to be bothered with testing individually. All I knew was that I didn't like the LF353 so why keep it at all. When I popped the new opamps in, I loved it so I just closed the case.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> I changed them both at the same time, I wasn't going to be bothered with testing individually. All I knew was that I didn't like the LF353 so why keep it at all. When I popped the new opamps in, I loved it so I just closed the case.


 

 *spanks spanky*


----------



## leesure

Spanky...any news on the DAC2?


----------



## _Spanky_

Things have kinda stopped for a little bit since Chinese New Year was/is going on. It will pick back up and when Ryan's ready, I'll post the FAQ.


----------



## ninjikiran

why can't american new years last as long as chinese new years.


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


ninjikiran said:


> why can't american new years last as long as chinese new years.


 
   
  We have the "Christmas season," which used to start right after Thanksgiving, but now begins as soon as Halloween is over.   So we have two _months_ to frantically spend money to sustain retail merchants who sell many goods manufactured in China.  That the Chinese should then take two _weeks_ to count how much more money we have contributed to our trade imbalance with them doesn't seem that unreasonable to me.  Now everybody back to work - Americans: borrow, spend.  Chinese: save, build.


----------



## maverickronin

We only get Christmas day off.  The whole country doesn't shut down for a week...


----------



## vgizzi

I replaced the stock opamps with LM4562NA based on recommendations on this thread.  The only ones I could find were listed as National Semiconductor PowerWise from Digi-Key in Minnesota and I was surprised they only cost $3.00 each.  After a quick listen I can't say I detect much change.  Do op-amps need to burn in?  Are $3 op-amps significantly inferior to others?


----------



## ninjikiran

This
  
  Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> We only get Christmas day off.  The whole country doesn't shut down for a week...


----------



## Ultrainferno

vgizzi said:


> I replaced the stock opamps with LM4562NA based on recommendations on this thread.  The only ones I could find were listed as National Semiconductor PowerWise from Digi-Key in Minnesota and I was surprised they only cost $3.00 each.  After a quick listen I can't say I detect much change.  Do op-amps need to burn in?  Are $3 op-amps significantly inferior to others?





 


Mine were like 18$ in total and the difference was audible right from the 1st second (imho)


----------



## ninjikiran

Thats only if you buy fakes, but legit LM4562NA from a real distributor is ~$5 a pop.


----------



## etteoh

Unlike more expensive opamps, say the OPA627s, a fake LM4562NA is pretty rare since the real ones are so downright affordable. You can even get NSC to ship you free samples.  Honestly I have yet to come across a fake LM4562NA but I would really like to hear if anyone has come across one. Where I'm at, you can get a used LM4562NA for US$3. Some even give them away for free and only charge you shipping. However, the metal can variant is pricey and much sought after.


----------



## ninjikiran

I mean theres no difference between paying $3 or $5 they are the same thing unless they are either fake or from the throw away batch which was intercepted somewhere in the line.
  
  Quote: 





etteoh said:


> Unlike more expensive opamps, say the OPA627s, a fake LM4562NA is pretty rare since the real ones are so downright affordable. You can even get NSC to ship you free samples.  Honestly I have yet to come across a fake LM4562NA but I would really like to hear if anyone has come across one. Where I'm at, you can get a used LM4562NA for US$3. Some even give them away for free and only charge you shipping. However, the metal can variant is pricey and much sought after.


----------



## Riverback

Quote: 





vgizzi said:


> I replaced the stock opamps with LM4562NA based on recommendations on this thread.  The only ones I could find were listed as National Semiconductor PowerWise from Digi-Key in Minnesota and I was surprised they only cost $3.00 each.  After a quick listen I can't say I detect much change.  Do op-amps need to burn in?  Are $3 op-amps significantly inferior to others?


 

  
  I wouldn't call it burn in, but for the lack of a better word: Yes, it took me a while to notice the difference since its more of a refinement of sound instead of a change in sound signature.
  Listen for a week or so, then decide if you want to keep it or not.


----------



## vgizzi

Thanks.  Good comment.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Still nothing on the D2?
  As the NFB-3 is in promo atm, I'm most likely getting that one if there is no immediate info update on the D2


----------



## _Spanky_

4 days ago Ryan had this to say:



> I will get a few production units in next few days. Please hold the release of the FAQ until I get the final product.
> I don't want to disappoint the community if I delay the release again.


----------



## attenuated 3db

_spanky_ said:


> 4 days ago Ryan had this to say:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Ultrainferno

too bad!


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea, that's a bummer. I don't think the D2 will take much longer. We're about right smack in the middle of Ryan's original estimation for the D2 arrival so there's still time. I expect it to be his finest unit yet, I expect to be blown away


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Is there any common issue with the optical input on this? I just sold my D1 to a guy and he says he can't get the optical to work from his Macbook. I've never used optical so I don't know if this is a software or volume output issue, or a problem with the Maverick itself. Any ideas?


----------



## Mouseboy007

Hi All,
   
  I've just registered as I have a few questions and I hope the community here can help me out.
  I usually use the AVForums in the UK where I'm based but having read ALL 147 pages in the last few days (yes, I really did) it's clear that this is where I'm most likely to get answers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Okay, well, I'm in the process of trying to buy a used Xiang Sheng DAC-01A. To my knowledge this has not been modded.
  I'm finding it hard to get information about the XS DAC but I believe it's the same as an early Maverick D1, correct me if I'm wrong.
  I'm not sure what the version 'A' represents and hoped you guys could advise.
  Am I right in thinking that this has the opamps soldered directly to the board? Or are the chips socketed?
  If they ARE soldered directly then I guess to replace the opamps I'd need to apply a soldering iron to the base of the chips pins to release the chip and would need to replace it with an '8 PIN SOLDER TAIL DIP SOCKET' - something like http://parts.digikey.co.uk/1/1/15148-8-pin-solder-tail-dip-socket-08-3518-10.html am I right?
  Similarly, I'd want to replace the tube which I understand can just be pulled out and replaced (i.e. no solder). Am I right, and would this be suitable? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300353336777&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123#ht_4674wt_1334
  I'm ONLY interested in using it as a DAC to connect to my AV Receiver's Analogue (RCA) Inputs as I'm pretty sure the onboard DAC of my receiver is quite poor, so I'll be using an optical in and tube  and/or SS out. Therefore, what opamps do I need to replace if I don't need to use it for headphones or its own internal  amplification? If you could reply with a picture clearly circling what chips I'd need to unsolder/remove that would be really helpful as (being a bit thick) I'm struggling to work this out and a picture or two would really help!
   
  So to summarise:
   
  1) How is the XiangShang DAC-01A model different to either the DAC-01 or the Maverick D1?
  2) Are the opamps soldered to the board on the XS?
  2a) If the opamps are directly soldered, would the '8 PIN SOLDER TAIL DIP SOCKET' I linked be okay to replace (and get appropriate opamp)
  3) Can the tube just be 'pulled' and would the linked item be suitable?
  4) What opamps do I need to replace (please provide pictures) if not bothered about the headphone stage
   
  Being a bit ham-fisted 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 when it comes to soldering, is this something I should get someone else to do or is it pretty simple with a steady hand and a decent soldering iron? I've got a friend that might help me if asked although I'm not averse to doing the soldering myself if it's not stupidly fiddly/small dots of solder.
   
  Any help/advice would be very gratefully received!
   
  Thanks guys,
   
  Mouseboy007


----------



## attenuated 3db

lazerboy2000 said:


> Is there any common issue with the optical input on this? I just sold my D1 to a guy and he says he can't get the optical to work from his Macbook. I've never used optical so I don't know if this is a software or volume output issue, or a problem with the Maverick itself. Any ideas?




No, I tried using the optical output of my Sony Vaio laptop to the Maverick D1's optical input, and the connection itself worked fine, even let me play my 24/96 files at 24/96 (I *think*, hard to tell without any digital readout, I am trusting my ears on that), but it didn't sound as good as the USB input because the Realtek sound chip in my computer is not very super-duper audio-wise. That's what motivated me to get the Teralink X2 USB-S/PDIF converter, which I will be selling along with my Maverick D1 when my Audio-gd NFB-3 arrives. The Teralink won't be necessary with the D2 I'm pretty sure, but I will recommend it strongly to whoever might be interested in my D1, because the combination of the two sounds really awesome. I was blown away by how much better the D1 sounded the *instant* I got the Teralink X2 and went into the D1's 75-ohm coaxial input. But the optical input worked for me too. Most likely your Apple Macbook friend doesn't have his software settings configured properly for his optical output. Can't advise; am OS/X ignorant.


----------



## attenuated 3db

"1) How is the XiangShang DAC-01A model different to either the DAC-01 or the Maverick D1?"


Wish I could help you, Mouseboy007, but I am unclear on the *exact* relationship between the XiangSheng DAC-01A DAC and the Maverick D1, except that their _obviously_ is one:

http://www.xshn.com/en/display.asp?id=89


----------



## Mouseboy007

Hi attenuated 3db (and hi to all other Head-fi'ers),
   
  Thanks for the quick feedback - It was a shame I didn't get to update the post sooner.
  After the long posting, the deal fell through. The guy originally wanted £160 delivered ($259), but then agreed on £125 ($202) when his ebay auction ended with no buyers, so I offered £105 ($170) but this was apparently too low. I guess it was a low offer, but based on the fact that it would possibly need soldering etc and that was for stock chinese parts, and it was used I didn't feel that I wanted to offer more - not considering it's a XiangSheng (I'm sure the XS's are fine, but I'd rather have a Maverick).
   
  I'd still be interested if anyone had an answer to the above anyway, especially as Q3 and Q4 from my original post will still be relevant if/when I get a Maverick.
  So that brings me to the next question ))...... does anyone here have a used Tube Magic D1 they want to sell? Especially if already modded!
   
  One quick question - Is the Tube Magic D1 the recommended DAC to get right now or should I buy a different variant?
   
  Thanks!
   
  Mouseboy007


----------



## p3kka

Hola! I got my D1 a few days ago and I've generally been happy with it. I was wondering though that aren't the rca-outputs supposed to mute when I insert the headphone plug? I think they muted the other night but they don't anymore, I've tried every "setting" combination possible and two different 6.3mm plugs.


----------



## leesure

Nope...they do not mute.


----------



## p3kka

Right, well "problem" solved then, thanks. 
  Quote: 





leesure said:


> Nope...they do not mute.


----------



## attenuated 3db

mouseboy007 said:


> Hi attenuated 3db (and hi to all other Head-fi'ers),
> 
> Thanks for the quick feedback - It was a shame I didn't get to update the post sooner.
> After the long posting, the deal fell through. The guy originally wanted £160 delivered ($259), but then agreed on £125 ($202) when his ebay auction ended with no buyers, so I offered £105 ($170) but this was apparently too low. I guess it was a low offer, but based on the fact that it would possibly need soldering etc and that was for stock chinese parts, and it was used I didn't feel that I wanted to offer more - not considering it's a XiangSheng (I'm sure the XS's are fine, but I'd rather have a Maverick).
> ...




_Yes_,* I *have a lightly-used Maverick D1 Tube Magic (just ordered it in mid-Decemeber of last year) that sounds wonderful that I will sell the instant the DHL delivery person rings the doorbell and delivers my Audio-gd NFB-3 to replace it. And if you re-read my previous post above in this thread, I would highly recommend you purchase my Teralink X2 USB-S/PDIF converter (search for it here on Head-Fi, there are many threads about it, too) along with it. Heck, I'll even throw in a high-end gold-plated heavy-duty Monoprice 75-ohm RCA-to-RCA coaxial cable to connect the two. Unfortunately, I cannot send them to you until the NFB-3 arrives, or I could not listen to Melody Gardot while I type, as I am doing now.  Should be very soon, though. I'll send Edwin at Audio-gd another e-mail to see if he knows when my unit will ship; should be any day now. Send me a PM and we can work out a deal-in-advance if you want. You can check out my eBay feedback here:

http://myworld.ebay.com/okjoel54

The last three transactions that I have feedback for are related to the D1. Well, the gigawork transaction was for the Teralink X2, which is brand-new. The other is for an extra G.E. JAN 5670W tube (my unit has a G.E. JAN 5670W tube in it from the factory, so you would have never-used NOS spare tube) and the third feedback (item listed as "private") is for one of the two replacement op-amps (LM4562NA and LT1364CN):

http://www.head-fi.org/lists/display/view_item/id/32805

I am _very _happy with my Maverick D1 as well as my Maverick A1 integrated amplifier (which I will be keeping), and have nothing but good things to say about it, Ryan Ping and Maverick Audio's excellent customer service. Just wanted to try something different. And the unit is virtually brand-new, perfect cosmetic condition, original box, etc. PM me if you're interested in negotiating price, and I'll work on the Audio-gd angle to see when I could ship it to you.


----------



## ninjikiran

1. Better thought out board design and analog stages.
  2. Dunno, its easy to tell if the opamps are socketed if you see a black riser in images. Usually the pins of the opamp are flattened as well.  The d1 is socketed.
  3. Looks like the proper size(), not sure of all the exact sizes that can fit into the D1.  GE5670 is one of the purchasable modules with the D1. 

```
5670, 2c51, 396A
```
  4. Opamp nearest the RCA outputs.
   
  Quote: 





mouseboy007 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I've just registered as I have a few questions and I hope the community here can help me out.
> I usually use the AVForums in the UK where I'm based but having read ALL 147 pages in the last few days (yes, I really did) it's clear that this is where I'm most likely to get answers
> ...


----------



## Mouseboy007

Thanks attenuated 3db I've just PM'd you
   
  Thanks ninjikiran - really appreciate the answers! Hopefully that will help others too!


----------



## attenuated 3db

p3kka said:


> Hola! I got my D1 a few days ago and I've generally been happy with it. I was wondering though that aren't the rca-outputs supposed to mute when I insert the headphone plug? I think they muted the other night but they don't anymore, I've tried every "setting" combination possible and two different 6.3mm plugs.





leesure said:


> Nope...they do not mute.




Curiously enough, the HeFei XiangSheng Electronic Co., Ltd's DAC-01A - mentioned by another Head-Fi-er in this thread just today - which bears a striking and mysterious resemblance to the Maverick D1 both inside and out (look at the specs and photos at the bottom of this page):

http://www.xshn.com/en/display.asp?id=89

... is available in two different models, one of which where inserting a headphone plug into the jack 
_does_ mute the RCA preamp outputs, and another version, similarly to the Maverick D1, which does _not_. Very strange. Spanky once told be something about the relationship of these two different but extremely similar DAC-preamps, but I have forgotten the story now.


----------



## vgizzi

I have found the optical input to be picky: it only works with certain connectors and they must be seated very carefully.  I think this is a connection issue and not a fault in the processor.  Once I settled on a good cable the unit worked fine.


----------



## Mouseboy007

Hi All,

   

  I just ordered a stock D1 from Ryan and am looking at replacement tubes and opamps. I'm in the UK and have found a local(ish) supplier of suitable tubes (see an earlier post) but just need to know what opamps to swap out - I've made notes after reading ALL 148 pages of this forums recently, so have some opamp numbers:

   

  LT1364

  OPA627

  LM4562

  LF353N (Stock?)

  LME49720HA (same as LM4562?)

   

  Just to save me spending a significant amount of time re-reading/searching, can anyone advise on the 'best' opamp for the DAC output please (yes, I know it's subjective - so a reason 'why' you think it's best would help) - including any I've missed. Also, should I also swap the opamp for the headphone stage (which I wont be using) - i.e. is it necessary to pair/match opamps for any reason etc. Lastly, just to confirm - the only opamps are for the DAC and Headphone stage - correct?:

   

   

   

  *****

  In Summary

  *****

   

  1) Best OpAmp for DAC (and Why)

  2) Is Headphone OpAmp swap necessary if not using headphone stage

  3) Only 2x opamps in total - confirm please.

  4) Bonus points for pointing me to a UK supplier ;o))

   

  Thanks

   

  Mouseoy007


----------



## attenuated 3db

mouseboy007 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Hi, Mouseboy007 (I never blow another "double-oh's" cover in public). 

The most popular DAC/RCA-out opamp (statistically speaking) among Maverick D1 owners (including myself) is the LT1364. I have the LT1364CN; not sure what the "CN" suffix denotes. As "Spanky," our true Maverck D1 guru (he built the most awesome FAQ in the world) points out, it is a "high-speed" op-amp and has at least the potential to generate more heat in operation that the stock LF353N (which comes in both op-amp sockets direct from Ryan). Take a look at the photos in this thread of the custom heat-sinks he hot-glued to the top of both of this op-amps, including the LT1364 in the DAC/RCA-ouput position. :rolleyes:

I cannot speak to the OPA627, but it seems the second-most popular choice for that socket. This guy is the UK, and has some excellent op-amp educational material. E-mail is free to the world, but you might end up living near this guy for all I know:

http://www.mhennessy2.f9.co.uk/articles/op-amps.htm

Normally, I would recommend Digikey as the op-amp supplier of choice, but they are U.S., and I am getting quite an education from Head-Fi in international commerce, import duties, etc. These folks are U.K. based, and might be worth a fast inquiry:

http://www.eurotech.co.uk/dynamic/search.php?part1=lt1364&x=0&y=0&type=STARTS

To the best of my understanding, if you are never going to use the D1's headphone jack, you can leave the factory LF353N in its socket, and it will make no difference to the signal sent out your RCA outputs. However, an LM4562 is so inexpensive if you are ordering either an LT1364 or OPA627, it's almost worth doing a dual op-amp swap for that unpredicatable future occassion where you may want to plug a pair of headphones into the D1's front panel. The LM4562 vs. LF353N makes a really audible difference there.

Of couse, some people will tell you than a "Sun" HDAM (hyper definition amplification module, I think) from Audio-gd, which is a collection of discrete components (transistors, resistors, capacitors, etc.) is the absolute best-sounding thing you could use to replace the LF353N in the DAC/RCA-out op-amp socket next to the tube, but it necessitates either an alterantive outer case (resierFS used plexiglass or copper mesh), or using a dremel to cut a hole in the top of the slick-looking, but somehwat ill-fitting sexy black brushed aluminum outer case that comes with the unit from Ryan.

The Audio-gd HDAMs are only $20 USD plus shipping and PayPal fees, but I must forewarn you, they require the provbvial Patience of Job to await arrival. :mad:

It's been a pleasure getting to know you, and am glad to see someone else join the ranks of Maverick D1 owners. It's a much quicker club to join that those of other Head-Fi-ers who belong to a club of ownership of another China-based audio "gear" manufacturer who shall go nameless.


----------



## ninjikiran

LT1364 on the headphone amp is a little brighter but pairs very well with cans such as the Beyer Dt770 without raising too much sibilent squeals.
   
  LM4562 Brings a little more crunch to the lower end or bassy notes. 
   
  Default opamp seems to bring out the worst in sibilance, making it shrill and fatiguing to listen to.  IMO,  its just slight attenuations the opamp is doing nothing major to change the sound of the maverick.  Just differences in comfort levels.
   
  I wish I still had the maverick so I could give a good comparison when my headphones come in on Mar 1st.  A good comparison between the M-stage and mav HPA output and comparison between NFB-2 and Mav.  Unfortunately that won't be possible.


----------



## ARStewart

Hey there everyone, I'm having a slight issue with my D1 and I'm hoping someone can help me out. I am running flac files from a Macbook into the D1 then to some Grado SR225i headphones. Usually I use the optical input on my Macbook but for some reason the D1 is very sensitive to the position of the optical cable, usually producing static or no sound at all. The USB works fine and I have yet to try the coax, but the optical is giving me problems and I'm not sure why. If I slightly wiggle the cable at the D1 input then I can get some music to come through, but unless I am holding it in one position I'm left without optical. Any ideas as to why this is happening? Could the optical input be loose? I usually plug my Mac into my Harman Kardon amp via optical and never have any issues, so I know that there isn't a faulty connection with the laptop or cable. Thanks for your help!


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> LT1364 on the headphone amp is a little brighter but pairs very well with cans such as the Beyer Dt770 without raising too much sibilent squeals.
> 
> LM4562 Brings a little more crunch to the lower end or bassy notes.
> 
> ...


 

 not really the thread to talk about it, but how was listening to the NFB right after you came from te D1?


----------



## ninjikiran

@Optical, you need a locking connection(though its always easy to pull out an optical cable)  Meaning if theres too much pressure pulling on the cord your never going to get a good connection.  Without a good connection chances of you getting any sound out of it will be difficult.  Though the 360 connection is not solid as long as  the light is able to pass through the tiny hole you should theoretically be ok.
   
   
   
  It was pleasant but I also didn't have the 702's with me so its near impossible to make any kind of direct comparison.  THe NFB2 is undoubtedly a better unit even with lower quality phones though.
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> not really the thread to talk about it, but how was listening to the NFB right after you came from te D1?


----------



## Mouseboy007

WOW, Thanks again for the responses attenuated 3db and ninjikiran.
  You guys ROCK!
   
  Taking the advice you both mention I think I'll go for some LM4562's, as you said attenuated 3db, there's no point buying one if they're so inexpensive, and as you mention ninjikiran if the LM4562's give more 'crunch' at the low end, I think that will be good for me as my setup is a touch bright - I'm looking to go through an AV Receiver, not headphones (yet). It'll be good to see what difference I get using an external DAC rather than the Receiver's in built one - I don't think much of the onboard one, but even if it's not-bad, I'm sure a warm tube sound through the RCA's will make listening a whole lot more tolerable.
   
  @attenuated 3db
_"this guy is the UK, and has some excellent op-amp educational material. E-mail is free to the world, but you might end up living near this guy for all I know"_
   
  Thanks, I'll look him up, - here in the UK we're only a little island so most people and places are a stones throw away. hehe.
  Off topic, but go to maps.google.com and type "brighton uk to berwick upon tweed uk" and you'll see just how small a country England is .... you could probably go from one end to the other in a single tank of fuel ;o)
   
  Oh, and @attenuated 3db good to 'speak' to you off-forum, and thanks for the UK links, shame there's no gold star smiley ... well, how about a 'Cheers' 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  
  Good luck with the Audio-gd, hope it's sorted soon.


----------



## Mouseboy007

For anyone else in the UK that wants an LM4562
   
http://markgrantcables.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=48_31&products_id=111
   
  At time of writing £6.09 delivered (as a comparison for our US cousins, that's about $10)


----------



## Mouseboy007

Just to add, I was originally looking at the Beresford 7520 and the upgraded 'Caiman' version.
  It's hard to find many comparisons between the D1 and the Beresford units.
   
  There is one interesting article:
http://www.digitalaudioreview.net.au/index.php/audio-reviews/digital-source-reviews/item/116-beresford-tc-7520-caiman?tmpl=component&print=1
   
  It seems to put the Beresford out in front, but concludes with the comment:
_The Beresford has the better separation and layering, *the Maverick the more emotive midrange and smoother treble*._
   
  I initially posted a few questions to (Stanley) Beresford and received the response 'Buy it and return it in 14 days if you don't like it' ... I then followed up with a few questions and had ZERO response back. Conversely, I e-mailed Ryan and even said I'm possibly going to source a used D1 and even without the prospect of a sale, he came back to me with really helpful responses - and quickly too.
   
  I also found a good independent review of the D1 here:
http://www.digitalaudioreview.net.au/index.php/audio-reviews/digital-source-reviews/item/80-maverick-tubemagic-d1
   
  I'm just counting down the days until my D1, opamps and tube arrives!.....


----------



## ninjikiran

Some people were waiting for impressions and I have them, this is before I get the Concerto(got it from Reiser).
   
  1.  Extremely detailed
  2.  Sibilant vocals are natural and sound as they would in rl.  Not harsh or fatiguing.
  3.  Bass exist and thump co-exist without intermingling.  Some passages might seem underwhelming at first but thats due to the recording and not attenuation.  When the recording calls for it the kind of punch is beautiful.
  4.  Female vocals, are amazing.  Nothing more to say.  Theres such a level of clarity and natural sound to it.
   
  I made expensive upgrades from my days with the maverick but they were definitely worth it.  It was a very substantial difference in audio enjoyment.  I don't know how much of that pertains to my new dac as I don't have a mav to test with but things could get interesting when the D2 comes out.  If its as clean as the NFB-2, no nuances at all and higher quality parts I don't see any reason why it can't be awesome.


----------



## Mouseboy007

YAY! I got my D1 today. I've been unable to try it out so far for two reasons.
  First, I zipped back home on my lunch break and only had 5minutes to unpack it and take a look before I had to get back.
  Secondly, it come with a non-uk terminated plug. I believe it simply requires a UK IEC cable, and will dig one out later.
   
  However, a thought has occurred - I'm not sure about the rest of the world, but in the UK we generally put fuses in our plugs rated at 3A, 5A or 13Amp. I don't want to under-spec the fuse, i.e. put in a 3A fuse and it pulls more power and blows the fuse straight away, and I don't want to under-spec the fuse, i.e. put in a 13A and too much current is 'let through' potentially damaging the D1 rather than (correctly in this instance) blowing the fuse.
   
  To be honest it's a minor thing really, and I don't know if the supplied plug has a fuse (remember I only had 5mins at lunch to quickly check out the D1) - if so I'll match the rating for what's there.
   
  Any advice welcomed


----------



## attenuated 3db

mouseboy007 said:


> YAY! I got my D1 today. I've been unable to try it out so far for two reasons.
> First, I zipped back home on my lunch break and only had 5minutes to unpack it and take a look before I had to get back.
> Secondly, it come with a non-uk terminated plug. I believe it simply requires a UK IEC cable, and will dig one out later.
> 
> ...




The inline fuse-holder (slides out with a small screwdriver, coin, or even fingernail) is directly above the female receptacle for the power cord for the U.K. mains AC supply. I do not know its amperage-specification, and from an experience I had with my Maverick A1, I could not see anything engraved on the metal tips of the fuse stating a spec. The A1 had a very fine filament to my tired old nearsighted eyes for a power amplifier with 20 watts RMS output into 8-ohm loudspeakers and that beautiful 80-watt (as opposed to the D1's 20-watt) R-core power transformer.

Given that your load is not going to vary on the D1 since you are just using the RCA outputs, if the unit turns on and stays on, I think your OK. So, if you have an assortment of mini-fuses of that size (wish that I had one - inside joke to Ryan if he reads this), I would start with a small-spec fuse, and if it doesn't blow immediately, you know you have maximal degree of protection, in case you have cat and he/she climbs on top of the D1's ventilated case, and, well, I won't continue.

Enjoy your D1; I am still enjoying mine. It's a great piece of equipment, especially for someone who needs of all of the control flexibility and multiple inputs and outputs.

P.S. - In addition to the proper power cord, make SURE you have the voltage switch (next to the fuse holder and female AC receptacle in the proper position for whatever your U.K. mains A.C. supply is. Don't want to confuse the primary windings on that 20-watt R-core transformer.:wink_face:


----------



## Mouseboy007

Quote: 





> P.S. - In addition to the proper power cord, make SURE you have the voltage switch (next to the fuse holder and female AC receptacle in the proper position for whatever your U.K. mains A.C. supply is.


 


  LOL.... I checked and it reads 230v (I think), and I didn't flick it to the other-position, but I'm guessing that would read 110v or something. I'm very cautious ever since flicking the input-supply switch on an old VCR years ago. The result was purple smoke (capacitors?) and an unhappy VCR.
   
  Thanks for the advice attenuated 3db, I will probably do just that - put in a low-rated fuse and if it doesn't blow 'great' if it does I'll step it up, until either the D1 works or I run out of fuses 
   
  Another quick question if you don't mind - from a heat-dissipation perspective, what kind of separation from other components and cabinet should I aim for; i.e. would it be bad to seat it on top of say, my amp and/or would it be bad to have just a 1" / 2" gap above or to the side. I presume it generates a fair amount of heat??......
   
  Thanks all (esp attenuated 3db - on a personal note, have you received the delivery you've been waiting for yet?)
   
  Mouseboy007


----------



## attenuated 3db

mouseboy007 said:


> LOL.... I checked and it reads 230v (I think), and I didn't flick it to the other-position, but I'm guessing that would read 110v or something. I'm very cautious ever since flicking the input-supply switch on an old VCR years ago. The result was purple smoke (capacitors?) and an unhappy VCR.
> 
> Thanks for the advice attenuated 3db, I will probably do just that - put in a low-rated fuse and if it doesn't blow 'great' if it does I'll step it up, until either the D1 works or I run out of fuses
> 
> ...




Well, as you (and the whole darned web-browsing-capable world) can see, I use a cheap computer desk for my "command and control" CENTCOM outpost:



The Maverick D1 (and A1) are on the slide-out drawer designed for a desktop computer's keyboard. Slid-in, as I keep it full time (look at all of the environmental dust that I deal with!), it has about two-three inches top clearance between the glass desktop that my Zalman ZM-NC2000 notebook cooler and i7 Sony laptop (provided you have a very large lap) sit on.

I take heat very seriously, having built both audio amplifiers and desktop computers from "scratch" components, and I tested this arrangement repeatedly with that precision test instrument, my hand. The dual Maverick "Tube Magic" patients were not running sufficient "fever" for me to bother with my Brookstone digital thermometer and its remote probe that I keep next to my apartment door to check inside and outside temperatures, and how good my DIY weather-stripping is saving me money and the atmosphere from unnecessary CO-2 emissions. 

According to those numbers, I am hermetically sealed in, according to my near-field measured indoor/outdoor temperature differentials in the depths of icy, snowy sub-zero winters (had 14 inches of the "white stuff" in a single day one month ago) or the scorching summers - heat index of 120 degrees Fahrenheit most of July and August of last year - in my remote corner of the world.

So, if you're placing your D1 atop anything, the more critical consideration is how much heat does the placed-upon component emit. You can find many photographs here on Head-Fi of people like me who stack their D1-A1 combos (they are very stylish), and the A1 is always on top. So, obviously, they are not too concerned about the D1. Heat rises, and if the A1 has room to breathe on top, no problem. The tubes are remarkably efficient, and even though the D1 gets hotter than the A1 (I am guessing the LT1364CN op-amp, which is "high-speed" and motivated Head-Fi-er "Spanky" to do some elaborate DIY experminents with CPU heatsink snippets), neither one of them gets all that hot, even with 24/7 use in my experience.

"Lots of wires" was the only comment of Head-Fi-er "ultrainferno," the _only_ person to have previously seen this just-declassified photo. :evil:


----------



## Mouseboy007

Wow, cool. Thanks. I guess that answers the heat question sufficiently.
  Now to the REAL troubleshooting..........
   
  Having now plugged it in and played with it, I have to say I'm a bit disappointed!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  I seem to have an annoying and constantly present static /clicking noise.
  It's audible at reasonable listening levels and is akin to ...well, static! It sounds like all my music is on dirty vinyl 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  I have tried both standard and tube out's and have entirely disconnected external kit and used the headphone jack and still I get this HORRIBLE clicking sound.
  I've tried different power cords and passed it through a mains conditioner - still the same!
  The way I see it, I've eliminated the outputs (as it's there on headphones too), I've eliminated the tube (headphones don't pass the tube do they?).
  It's there on optical and USB, interestingly if I line-in from the laptop, it's gone. 
   
  EDIT: As I write, I've tried a different optical cable and that's fixed it for both optical and USB?! Weird.
   
  I've had it on for maybe an hour - I never got the opportunity to try the original tube and opamp for the DAC as I swapped them straight away! ))
  I use a Harman Kardon AV Receiver (UK AVR255 / US AVR254) and I have to say it's requiring quite critical listening to determine how much better the D1 is over the inbuilt DAC of the Receiver. I think the tube output is definitely richer and more rounded, but also a little brighter than the inbuilt DAC - this may be the analogue stages on the receiver rather than either DAC.
   
  I'm not going to say I'm disappointed, but I'm certainly not blown-away in the way I use it at present. I'm going to keep burning-in the unit/tube and see if my perception/experience changes much in the next few weeks. I may also swap out the tube again. At present I've got a Russian 6H3NE tube in that's been cryogenically frozen which according to the seller makes it sound close to a $250 Bendix http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CRYO-SUPER-LIFE-6N3P-E-Hi-Fi-AUDIO-TUBE-2C51-5670-/300353336777?pt=UK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL&hash=item45ee7435c9#ht_4674wt_1334
   
  I also have a couple of 'vintage' 5670's on their way which I may try out .... if one or more of the 5670's are 'duff' will it damage the D1 at all? Or will it just fail to work?
  I've replaced the opamp nearest the DAC with a LM4562NA.
   
  Luckily I can send the same audio (courtesy of Apple Airport Express's) to different inputs on my Receiver and switch between them so I only lose 1/2 second of audio in the process which means I can listen for discernable audible differences. I think the D1 inches ahead on being more dynamic/open at this stage, but I think in tightening up the midrange and bass it also can sound less 'full' at the bottom end. A good example would be that a bit of piano on the Receivers DAC sounds quite 'mellow' whereas the D1 is more dynamic but with it loses some of the mellow in favour of clarity - which is possibly a good thing! - I just need to get a little more used to it maybe?
   
  I don't know if anyone has any suggestions at this stage on how to get a more mellow sound out of the D1, or whether my ears and perception will adjust to the new dynamics, but I guess I need to let the unit settle in a little more first. Should the D1 itself as a unit need burn in time, or just the tube?
   
  Thanks again all..... I'll post updates....


----------



## attenuated 3db

*DISCLOSURE STATEMENT*: I am proudly, defiantly OS/X-ignorant, at least in terms of being instrument-rated to pilot a McInstosh (nope, that's the audio brand I cut my salesman's teeth on at age 20) - I mean Macinstoh.

So I have no idea how your software processes *.FLAC music files at either the OS or application level.

I consider iTunes to be "bloatware" that Steve Jobs conceived of to "corner the market" on the music industry via the iPod and the ITunes online music store, just like Bill Gates drove Netscape out-of-business, by claiming, in Federal Court, that Internet Explorer 3.0 was a necessary part of the Windows 95 operating system, and Windows 95 simply "would't work" without it. Judge Thomas Penfield Jackson, not a computer nerd but a very smart man, expressed open skepticism of this claim from the bench.

Anyway, I'm typing this post from my four-year-old (goes for $100 now on eBay) HP Core-2-duo notebook with a self-installed 40-gb. Intel SSD and Ubuntu Linux 10.10. I'd rather have it any day than all of the flashy aluminum-unibody-construction MacBook Pros I see the eager little college kids around me staring at. 

Good luck finding a job once you get that degree of yours; hope at least your flashy computer is paid off, unlike the student loans you will be saddled with.

So, Apple-vent satisfied. 

I was baffled as to why my D1 disappointed me in terms of SQ, also. I tried my Sony i7's optical output, but although it gave me the ability to play a few 24/96 files that the USB input could not process at their native rate, it was no better than USB. Then I got this gizmo:

http://www.circuitsathome.com/measurements/usb-isolator

... and the SQ improved instantly. When I got my Teralink X2 with its low-jitter 1ppm TCXO re-clocking circuit:

http://www.teradak.com/ProductsView.Asp?id=21

... and went into the D1's 75-ohm coax input, it got even better. But I use Windows 7 Service Pack 1 (with a new, much improved USB sound driver; nothing works right with any version of any Windows operating system until at_ least_ Service Pack 1) with Foobar2K (free like Linux), so I am guessing this is either a software or transport/connection issue.

Not really anything else it could be; our D1's are identical, so it has to be further "upstream" in the audio reproduction chain.


----------



## Mouseboy007

Haha.... interesting links, although at present I feed my audio through optical, so am not sure I would greatly benefit, but thanks anyway!
   
  Slightly off-topic, but .... personally I know little about OSX either, I have 2x Apple Airport Express's as they're a cheap/convenient was to stream wirelessly from my PC to my mid-fi. I have 2x as I once lived in a house with a separate dining room (i.e. where I convinced 'the boss' I should have my turntable and stereo amp - the AV Receiver lives in the living room). I use a Windows laptop and iTunes but if there was a way to use a different media player to directly stream to the Airport Expresses, or alternatively different hardware that is as inexpensive and offers the same benefits (being able to use a laptop screen to browse a library of music, click on a track and have it transmit wirelessly to one or more units) then I'd likely change in a flash!
   
  iTunes bloatware? Whatever do you mean (http://www.oldapps.com/itunes.php) I recently downloaded 4.6 as ALL I want is to browse and stream music.
  <RANT> I don't have an iPod, and iPad, an iPhone or similar such gizmo. I don't want to organise my videos or photo's I JUST WANT MY MUSIC </RANT>
   
  I also have a Roku M1000 collecting dust (http://soundbridge.roku.com/showcase.php Image 23) as it's too slow for me to use a handheld remote control to browse through thousands of tracks/artists/albums and squint at a small vacuum fluorescent display from 15ft away. That's one great thing iTunes does have in it's favour (for my usage), the ability to very quickly skip around a music library and find music and to be able to select a track and hear it back on my AV system a split second later.
   
  Anyway, back on topic, the USB issue seems to be with (interestingly) a HP laptop with Windows7, using a Dell Laptop with Windows 7 the 'interference' noises are gone.
  I guess it's either the USB ports / drivers on the HP laptop.
   
  At this stage I'm not overwhelmed by the D1, It's good - better sounding maybe than the inbuilt DAC in my Receiver, but not phenomenally (not yet at least).
  Other factors I have to consider are whether the Receiver is definitely bypassing the internal DAC when it outputs to analogue - from what I've read, having the 'input' set to 2Stereo with no after-effect sound DSP/processing means I get a clear analogue path. Furthermore, maybe the Receiver itself and the way it outputs to the speakers is a limiting factor. i might try out the DAC on my old-fi. I can guarantee there is no digital impact there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Having said that, I'm quite taken by the little unit and it's making me want to try out a decent set of headphones next (when the overtime comes in to pay for them), so I couldn't really say I'm vastly underwhelmed.
   
  So, I'm not particularly overwhelmed or underwhelmed. I guess that means I can coin a new phrase and say I'm just 'whelmed'. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  I'm hoping my opinion changes more favourably after letting the tube bed-in for a little or maybe tube-rolling it again.
   
  Mouseboy007


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





mouseboy007 said:


> Other factors I have to consider are *whether the Receiver is definitely bypassing the internal DAC when it outputs to analogue* - from what I've read, having the 'input' set to 2Stereo with no after-effect sound DSP/processing means I get a clear analogue path.


 
   
  With DSP activated, the analogue signal will be converted (Analogue -> ADC -> DSP -> DAC -> Analogue). Shutting down the DSP mode should pull off the trick, unless the circuit is dumb to convert a pure analogue signal into digital and then back into analogue which, in this case, will affect the sound through the quality of the ADC and DAC.
   
  In any case, connecting the digital input right to the receiver and connecting the digital input first to D1 and then to the receiver via an analogue cable will use the same amplifier within the receiver. You should just rely on whichever route that sounds more to your liking rather than trying to figure out which one functions as a better pure DAC unless you are thinking of changing your audio set up =)
   
  I will have to admit that the tube and opamp do affect the sound of D1 by quite an extent. For more mellow sound GE tube + OPA627 (a tad too warm at times) will fit your bill perfectly. Western Electric tube are a good buy too. Bendix tube (or anything that sounds close to it) are brighter and more dynamic. LT1364 is quite flat.
   
  D1 is a tiny multi-purpose unit that costs 1/5 the price of your Harman Kardon Receiver. It is not a monster beater, but it definitely holds its ground =)


----------



## Mouseboy007

Thanks uelover,
   
  My understanding is that if ANY sound processing is performed that the signal has to follow a digital path (ADC?) and then of course be converted back to analogue.
  So what I was saying (and I may be wrong) is that if I add an audio effect such as increasing bass or (heaven forbid) applying an audio mode (Logic7 Music etc / 5-Speaker-Stereo etc) that the signal is manipulated at a digital stage somewhere:
   
  My understanding:
  Analogue in > 2 Stereo 'mode' > Analgue (speakers) out
  Analogue in > 5 Stereo 'mode' > signal to DSP (via ADC?) > DSP to inbuilt DAC > Analgue (speakers) out
   
  Hope that makes sense - please correct any mistakes I've made. I'd describe myself as 'interested' and 'knowledge-seeking' rather than 'knowledgeable' 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  I'll pick up the OPA627 and keep an eye out for some other tubes (especially the GE 5670's).
   
  You mention that the "D1 is a tiny multi-purpose unit that costs 1/5 the price of (my) Harman Kardon Receiver", but the HK Receiver is SO multipurpuse it makes me wonder how much effort has been applied to the DAC stage, my guess is that even the DAC stage is 'multipurpose' in that it's probably more geared towards various sound and video modes rather than pure stereo (bliss) as the D1 is. Therefore I had hoped for a marked improvement using an external DAC. I know I could have bought a more expensive DAC, but that kind of defeats the purpose when the Receiver was bought used for 'just' £240 (~$390).
   
  I know a Receiver will never really compare to a separate Stereo Amp, but due to budget and space constraints, I'm trying to make the best of what I have with audiophile sensibilities and janitor money


----------



## Mouseboy007

WOW, I've just looked at the OPA627 here in the UK. It seems to be upwards of £25 ($40).
  I've found two OPA627's and am not sure of the difference between the AP and BP suffixes (except one is more money).
   
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=1212318&CMP=e-2072-00001000
http://uk.farnell.com/texas-instruments/opa627apg4/op-amp-difet-precision-dip8-627/dp/1218524?Ntt=OPA627APG4
   
  I've googled for OPA627 and found a few people compare the AD827 to it in different applications.
  Will the AD827 be comparable in a D1 does anyone know? It;s certainly a third of the price!
   
http://uk.farnell.com/analog-devices/ad827jnz/op-amp-dual-high-speed-dip8-827/dp/9603662
   
  Thanks again,
   
  Mouseboy007


----------



## uelover

Yes you are right. I edited my post while you were typing your reply! Haha.
   
  In any case, you have really gotten a good deal for the receiver! Nonetheless, if you are only using the amp section of the receiver and all the analogue/digital inputs are connected to the D1, having a receiver is such a waste! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Part of the cost in D1 are directed towards the headamp stage too so I am just curious why didn't you get a pure external DAC such as the upcoming D2 or V-DAC? (switching between sources may be a pain though). If you need the headamp, that may be another story altogether.
   
  If you can afford, going straight to WE tube would be a wise choice because you will always wonder about how much better it will sound compared to the GE tube =)
   
  Btw, OPA627 is a single opamp so you will need a brown dog adapter to make it dual. Something like this might work: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Pair-Dual-both-side-BB-OPA627AU-SOIC-DIP-adapter-/220740638997?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33652ad915


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## Mouseboy007

Quote: 





> Nonetheless, if you are only using the amp section of the receiver and all the analogue/digital inputs are connected to the D1, having a receiver is such a waste!


 
   
  Actually I use my Receiver for a lot more than stereo music - I watch films and TV through it so not a total waste 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  It's just for music I prefer a nice warm stereo sound, but don't have space/money for a stereo amp - not without getting rid of my movie surround sound!
   
  I didn't get a pure external DAC for two reasons:
  1) I wanted Tube output
  2) I didn't want to wait for the new D1 (D2?) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Maybe when the D2 has been available for a few months and it has been upgraded and modified, I'll replace the D1 with the D2?
   
  also, I wasn't sure how much difference a DAC would make. The D1 was affordable and I'm pretty sure I could sell it on ebay in a month or two for about the same price (but with the added opamps/tube). I'll probably keep it - at least until the new D1 DAC has been tried and tested.
   
   
  Quote: 





> btw, OPA627 is a single opamp so you will need a brown dog adapter to make it dual.





   
  What is a dog adapter? I suppose I could look on google but if you have an easy explanation that would help. Do I need to modify any part of the D1 if I replace the LM4562 with a OPA627? I posted a question a moment ago about OPA627's and AS827 etc. 
   
  There certainly are a lot of possible configurations!


----------



## Mouseboy007

Hi uelover
  
  Quote: 





> What is a dog adapter? I suppose I could look on google but if you have an easy explanation that would help.


 

  
  Ahhh, I see you have updated your post as I was typing a reply 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Thanks!


----------



## uelover

Yeah make use of the edit button. It helps to save spaces in this long thread.
   
  A fully upgraded D1 with good tube and good opamp can last you for long unless you are going into mid/high end. I couldn't tell much of an upgrade initially when I got my D1 (stock config hooked via optical to my macbook pro). I was a little disappointed. However, after changing the opamps and tube and some cables, I became a happy owner. Thus, I am puzzled by why Ryan chose those stock opamps and tube when he could have just increased the cost of the unit by just a little for a large gain in quality. I am sure a lot of people discarded the D1 after hearing just the stock config because the stock config is really not that impressive.
   
  Hmm OPA627 is a mono-channel opamp. In order to get dual-channel sound out of it you need two pieces of OPA627 fitted together on a 'brown-dog' adapter (that was their name, could have named it pink dog but whatever). No modification needed on your part. You can leave the LM4562 at the headamp section and throw the OPA627 in the DAC section. Thus, to save yourself from any trouble, get a soldered and ready-made dual fitted OPA627 so that your job is to only plug and play =)


----------



## MK47

So if you are in UK you can't just buy a adaptor for it? I am going to get this and use it with dt880 600 ohms.


----------



## leesure

Any news on the D2?


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





mk47 said:


> So if you are in UK you can't just buy a adaptor for it? I am going to get this and use it with dt880 600 ohms.


 


  Hmm the single OPA627 opamp is the size of any other opamp. Getting an adapter to fit both single OPA627 into that little space you have in D1 probably won't work due to space constraint. You can, however, get those ready-made OPA627AU soldered on a BD adapter and that will make your life easier too. UK should have them just that I am not so sure as to where.


  Quote: 





leesure said:


> Any news on the D2?


 

 Spanky is the man.


----------



## MK47

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Hmm the single OPA627 opamp is the size of any other opamp. Getting an adapter to fit both single OPA627 into that little space you have in D1 probably won't work due to space constraint. You can, however, get those ready-made OPA627AU soldered on a BD adapter and that will make your life easier too. UK should have them just that I am not so sure as to where.


 

 Ahhh I was asking about the power cable,haha sorry. I think I will be getting it this weekend alone with DT880 600 ohms.Should I get some different opamps with it?(I heard that the stock opamp isnt very good) What would work well with beyer? I will be using it as DAC and Amp,then I will be upgrading the Amp to little dot.Only use this for DAC. I know this has probably been asked before but it is getting late here and I am soooo tired. thank you very much.


----------



## uelover

It's early morning here! Haha.
   
  Sorry about the misinterpretation! I used the UK IEC Power Cord too for Maverick D1. Getting any standard UK IEC power cord would work. Getting an adapter would work too.
   
  I guess the decision will depend on how long is the interim between you receiving your D1 and you receiving your LD Amp.
   
  Opamps aren't that expensive so you may just get one to last you through the period. Can't really advise on the desired opamp for beyer but you can gauge what type of sound each opamp will produce and decide from there. Only one opamp for the headamp stage is required. The DAC stage only affect the analogue outputs.
   
  I would think that it would be good not to change the opamp of the DAC section first even when you have received your LD Amp as it is important to get familiarized with the sound of your new amp and decide what tweaks would be needed. Nonetheless, having that said, LT1364CN8 is pretty flat and may be a good starting ground if you are willing to tinker more with the opamps.
   
  Just my $0.000001 cents worth.


----------



## MK47

Thank you. I have a power cord laying around and it is 13 amp,would it work?
  I think it will be a few months before I get little doc.My wallet has a massive hole now,haha. Thank you.


----------



## Mouseboy007

Quote: 





mk47 said:


> Thank you. I have a power cord laying around and it is 13 amp,would it work?
> I think it will be a few months before I get little doc.My wallet has a massive hole now,haha. Thank you.


 


  That would be fine. Since the D1 has a 0.25 inline fuse then any power cord / fuse combination should work fine. I had an old IEC cable with 13A fuse and it works a charm for me!


----------



## Mouseboy007

Anyone know the difference between LME49720*NA* and LME49720*HA. *I can source an 'NA' one in the UK cheaply, but am struggling to find a HA - is there a sonic difference?
 Similarly, is the OPA2107 sonically the same as the OPA627 - again I've read a few things on these forums but don't really understand enough about it myself.
   
  I found a site/page where someone is comparing a wide range of opamps (http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=149&action=print&thread=2200)
   
  ******************************
_Opamps I will be evaluating on browndogs are AD744 / AD744 with class A mods / AD843 / AD811/ LM6171/ OPA627 / OPA227 / OPA228 / OPA602 / OPA134 / OPA637 and a few others.

 Dual channel chips I will be evaluating include AD8620, LM4562, LM6172, OPA2227, OPA2228, OPA2134 / OPA2132 / OPA2107 and a few others._
  ******************************
   
  Am I right in thinking that any of the Dual channel chips would be okay in the Maveric - in particular in the DAC stage. I've read a few things on this forum about DC offsets etc and I'm not entirely sure I follow the discussions - I guess I'd just like to know if putting in an OpAmp with the wrong offset will damage anything? .... 
   
  I have an LM4562 in the DAC stage and am looking to roll opamps a little to get a sound I'm most happy with. the 4562 is okay, pretty good in fact, but it's all about individual tastes, individual setups and experimenting I suppose....
   
  Thanks guys,
   
  Mouseboy007


----------



## attenuated 3db

National Semiconductor's data sheet for the LM49720 does not differentiate between suffixes. Any audible differences would be trivial compared to just trusting that you have a good, reliable chip vendor, IMHO.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> National Semiconductor's data sheet for the LM49720 does not differentiate between suffixes. Any audible differences would be trivial compared to just trusting that you have a good, reliable chip vendor, IMHO.


 


  hmm as far as I know, LME49720HA is a metal can while NA is not. Can't really commend on the rest.


----------



## ninjikiran

MA - SOIC
  NA - Dip8,
  HA - TO99
   
  There are 2x SOIC and a TO-5 variant as well.
   
  The only difference is package size/compose.  The metal can is supposed to be better at rejecting outside interference and is usually revered as better sounding than the NA(Dip8) model which is the common version.  No one uses the other models...  and generally the TO99 model almost always require you to put in yourself as every manufacturer I have seen uses the NA variant.  Higher end dacs seem to stay away from the 4562/49720 like a plague for some reason(can't say there I have heard the artifacts people complain about).  Except for the Benchmark Dac1
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> hmm as far as I know, LME49720HA is a metal can while NA is not. Can't really commend on the rest.


----------



## iceman23

Has anyone had any issues with hum when using direct mode? When using the D1 as a DAC from my computer and preamp to speakers there is a noticeable hum when in direct mode. So much so that I cannot make an accurate comparison between its sound and non-direct mode. There is no such present hum in non-direct mode.


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Any updates on the D2 version Spanky?


----------



## Mouseboy007

Hi Guys,
   
  I've so far swapped the stock chinese tube for 1x cryogenically frozen Russian 6N3P (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CRYO-SUPER-LIFE-6N3P-E-Hi-Fi-AUDIO-TUBE-2C51-5670-/300353336777?pt=UK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL&hash=item45ee7435c9#ht_4674wt_1334). The seller said it was up there with the Bendix. It sounded a bit lean to me ... although I only gave it about a week before I swapped in 2x 'used' vintage 5670's. I'm not sure what variant the 5670's were, as one of them has no markings except a few red bits of ink that haven't yet rubbed off and the other just has a grey coloured military font that says 5670. Anyway, both of these got about a week of use before being swapped.
   
  I've also swapped the DAC OpAmp for a LM4562NA .... I've since ordered a few more opamps and tried them yesterday, so I swapped the Headphone OpAmp for the LM4562NA and then tried the following for the DAC:
   
  LME49720NA
   
  OPA2107AP
  OPA2132PA
  AD826ANZ
   
  I can't remember what I left in there, I think it was the OPA2107, but so far irrespective of tubes or opamps I've not noticed any significant differences.
  I've ordered a better set of RCA cables today to see if that is my weak link. I listen via an AV receiver through a set of speakers rather than headphones and haven't spent too much time on critical listening yet, but was curious to see if any combination of tube/opamp would make me say 'wow' there's an immediata and obvious difference (good or bad) but so far everything has been just a little difference one way or the other.
   
  So, my questions are:
   
  1) How long should I run a burn-in on a tube/opamp - i.e. after how many hours of listening should I expect the sound to have improved./settled
  2) I'm not sure what the 5670 tubes were that I swapped, but can get two used GE 5670's (I've seen the green ink on a pic of them, so am sure they really are GE) - would it be worth getting GE 5670's or for a bit more I can get a GE 5670 JAN or a 2C51 Sylvania. Would I be advised to get any of these at all?
   
  Thanks guys!
   
  Mouseboy007


----------



## ninjikiran

If burn in bothers you just run it for 3-4 days with pink noise(head-fi search it) if you hear something different then roll with it otherwise don't worry too much.  I didn't find the tube to make that much a diff over the SS myself.
  Quote: 





mouseboy007 said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I've so far swapped the stock chinese tube for 1x cryogenically frozen Russian 6N3P (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CRYO-SUPER-LIFE-6N3P-E-Hi-Fi-AUDIO-TUBE-2C51-5670-/300353336777?pt=UK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL&hash=item45ee7435c9#ht_4674wt_1334). The seller said it was up there with the Bendix. It sounded a bit lean to me ... although I only gave it about a week before I swapped in 2x 'used' vintage 5670's. I'm not sure what variant the 5670's were, as one of them has no markings except a few red bits of ink that haven't yet rubbed off and the other just has a grey coloured military font that says 5670. Anyway, both of these got about a week of use before being swapped.
> 
> ...


----------



## Aris488

Hi,
   
  I've a problem with my MAV D1. Dac and heaphone amp work fine but no more signal out RCA, valve or not. I've tried with diffrent cables, sources and amps - same result no sound out.
   
  Can anyone help me?
   
  Best regards
   
  Chris


----------



## attenuated 3db

Good luck with the like-new Maverick D1!


----------



## middachten

[size=medium]I've had PM from various people about the OP249 I use. Since I've kept coming back to this OpAmp in my D1, and its my favorite when it comes to the midrange, I thought I might as well post my answer here:
   
The OpAmp was designed by Analog Devices (like almost all good sounding opamps
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





).

A spec sheet can be found here: http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/data_sheets/OP249.pdf

Its being sold by Farnell. In the Netherlands you get it for +/- €6,50. You don't need an adapter, its a standard 8-pin DIP dual OpAmp config. In fact, its the dual version of the OP149.

   

Right now I'm in the process of getting used to my new DAC: an Audio-GD NFB-2. I've been switching back-and-forth a lot between my D1, NFB-2 and D24. And while the NFB-2 is in a different league than the other two, the D1 still shows to be a great sounding DAC/Amp with an excellent performance at this price level. I'll post my review on the NFB-2 in the next week or so.
​[/size]


----------



## velvet undergrd

Hey guys, i read the headphone output for the D1 doesnt use the tube, so if i wanted to listen to the tube through headphones would it be advisable to use a stereo RCA to 3.5mm adapter and plug my headphones into the tube pre-out? Would there be any loss in sound quality?


----------



## Ultrainferno

That's something you shouldn't do. the Tube pre outs are too "hot".
  It's been explained in this thread bedore


----------



## velvet undergrd

Thanks for the info ultra, i tried searching for it, but gave up after awhile. There's 151 pages to this thread! 
 so if i wanted to use headphones i ought to invest in a proper headphone dac/amp eh?


----------



## Ultrainferno

If you want to go with the tubes & Maverick you can look at the A1 amp, but that's no dac unfortunately for you


----------



## velvet undergrd

thanks ultra, was thinking about doing that too. Guess its back to the old drawing board to figure out what sorta dac i shld get. 
  so closeee to a decision this time >.<


----------



## _Spanky_

velvet undergrd said:


> There's 151 pages to this thread!




Check my sig for the FAQ. It has info about the hot tube outputs. But yea, if you want tube, you're going to have to go with a dedicated DAC and amp.


----------



## Mouseboy007

I recently bought a tube on eBay but I don't know what it is - in terms of manufacturer / quality / rarity etc - I can't seem to find it listed anywhere.
  Sounds good though! - Very warm and silky smooth treble.
   
  Anyone have any ideas?
  I tried to attach a picture but got a message back saying I don't have permission.
  The text on the tube reads:
   
  5670/CV4013
  Made in England
  SuperRadiotron 03
   
  Thanks


----------



## Ultrainferno

If I'm not mistaken "Radiotron" was used by multiple companies, it's a generic name for tubes.
  Try uploading your pic to imageshack or something if the uploader here doesn't work


----------



## Mouseboy007

Wow, never used imageshack - good call Ultrainferno 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  I couldn't use the multi-uploader (think it's my companies proxy server) so uploaded one by one:
   
http://img714.imageshack.us/i/5670cv4013madeinengland.jpg/
http://img171.imageshack.us/i/superradiotron031.jpg/
http://img638.imageshack.us/i/superradiotron032.jpg/
   
  I bought the tube used and it sounds pretty good to me. I'd just like to know for my own satisfaction how old it is and who it's made by to see if I can get a comparisson with a similar 'branded' tube - i.e. if it's a differently labelled Sylvania, G.E, Tungsol, Russian-Clone etc. The Made in England bit intreagues me!


----------



## Gubretti

I've seen people using the OPA627 as the opamp for the DAC, how about the amp section? Is there any particular its only used for the DAC?


----------



## Riverback

Quote: 





gubretti said:


> I've seen people using the OPA627 as the opamp for the DAC, how about the amp section? Is there any particular its only used for the DAC?


 


  Probably because of the DC Offset, I havent tested it though


----------



## Gubretti

Could someone test it and tell me the results? I'm thinking about using OPA627 for both slots, but I don't want to pay for shipping twice or purchase an extra.


----------



## uelover

opa627 works perfectly fine for both headamp and dac section. No high DC offset.


----------



## Mouseboy007

Following middachten's post above, I've ordered an OP249. Should have it in a week or so. I'll post how this goes and maybe a follow up post with the OpAmps and Tube combinations I have for reference.
   
  Anyway, regards JITTER and the TubeMagic I've read a few posts on other forums that Airport Express jitter is very high and that ideally a DAC-subsystem that can re-clock the signal is best i.e. either get a standalone re-clocker + DAC - OR buy a DAC with an in-built re-clocker (like the Benchmark). 
   
  Someone posted 'IMHO if you simply buy a standalone DAC & do not take care of reducing the jitter, your benefits are going to be modest at best'.
  [Source: http://www.hifi-forum.de/viewthread-59-1701.html]
   
  Question: Does the TubeMagic reclock and reduce the jitter at all - if not, should this concern me (using an Airport Express) and/or should I get a standalone device to handle the jitter? I'm keen to not keep bulking out my AV kit, but at the same time if there are significant gains from adding something then I'd like to know more. Is there any way I can test/determine the jitter and whether it noticeably impacts my music - I've plugged a laptop in to the DAC via USB and haven't noticed any phenomenal performance gains to the Airport Express Optical to DAC.
   
  Cheers Guys,
   
  Mouseboy007


----------



## attenuated 3db

No, the Maverick D1 does not reclock; I don't know any DAC in the $200 range that does. My Teralink X2 made a HUGE difference in the SQ of my D1 (now with a happy new home), switching from the USB to 75-ohm coaxial input:

http://www.teradak.com/ProductsView.Asp?id=21

I ordered it new from a Hong-Kong based eBay vendor who offered free shipping as part of the $77 Buy-It-Now price, but it took forever to arrive. If you are interested, I'd consider selling it to you if I could get an Audio-gd Digital Interface on order to replace it before shipping it to you. It really does make a HUGE difference in SQ, even with my NFB-3. PM me (we have past experience at that) if you are interested.


----------



## ninjikiran

In my understanding all Delta Sigma based dac chips reclock which is why some claim there is not as much benefit between transports.  R-2R based chips on the other hand are not as advanced for better or for worst.


----------



## Mouseboy007

Sorry ninjikiran - you lost me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 lol
   
  If you can dumb-it-down that'd help 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 - in essence, are you saying that the D1 is an R-2R based design and as such would need something like attenuated 3db's Teralink X2 to reclock the jitter from the Airport Express (Optical) which might alter (improve) the performance/output of the audio before it gets to the DAC, whereas other DAC's that DO reclock aren't going to show a huge difference by having an additional box added to handle the jitter because there's not so much gain to be had by changing the 'reclocking part' of the setup (i.e. by adding a Teralink X2). Also, can you elaborate on your comment about not handling the jitter 'for better or worse' as this jitter-surpression is all quite new to me and I'm struggling to understand the pro's and con's. In the meantime, I'll keep trawling the web and keep reading 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  attenuated 3db - I'm intreagued by the Teralink X2 and remember you mentioning something to me before either in an earlier post or PM - since the Airport Express uses an optical/toslink out to the DAC, will there be any/much of a gain to your knowledge or in your experience?
   
  Thanks
   
  Mouseboy007


----------



## ninjikiran

Maybe instead of reclock I am thinking about upsampling which according to most threads really diminish the advantages of a good transport as it reduces jitter intrinstically.  When people start talking about these huge differences in transports I tend to get weary of whether somethings being attenuated somewhere.  They should in theory do one and only one thing, provide the cleanest digital signal such that your dac can do its job properly.
   
  The D1 is based off of a Cirrus Logic chip, meaning it is Delta Sigma. 
   
  I couldn't explain the concept of Delta Sigma, but R-2R ladders is a classic way of converting any digital signal to an analog signal through as series of resistors.


----------



## Mouseboy007

Thanks for the reply ninjikiran,
  So with your comment:
  
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> The D1 is based off of a Cirrus Logic chip, meaning it is Sigma Delta.


 

 and earlier comment:
   
   Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> In my understanding all Delta Sigma based dac chips reclock which is why some claim there is not as much benefit between transports.





   
  So......Delta Sigma based DAC's such as the D1 reclock, BUT according to attenuated 3db's assertion
   
   Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> No, the Maverick D1 does not reclock; I don't know any DAC in the $200 range that does. My Teralink X2 made a HUGE difference in the SQ of my D1





   

   
  ....the D1 DOESN'T reclock.
  I'm confused 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I suppose what I *really* need to know is - irrespective of whether or not the D1 does/doesn't reclock - would I benefit from yet another box (arghhhh) to combat the jitter from the Airport Express. Looking at attenuated 3db's comments that the Teralink made a HUGE difference, I thought I should consider something that will reduce jitter that can take in an optical signal and output an optical/coax signal for the D1.
  I've not found anything particularly cheap in my short time of looking but the Monarchy Audio DIP has been reviewed as having made a substantial difference (to certain setups). Ideally I'd like to get hold of one to experiment for myself, but they seem as rare as hens teeth on the pre-loved market.
   
  Any thoughts/comments to the above?
   
  Thanks again guys,
   
  Mouseboy007


----------



## middachten

Quote: 





mouseboy007 said:


> Sorry ninjikiran - you lost me
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I'll give it a try.....
  The D1 uses a delta/sigma design (from the 'old' Crystal Semiconductors school). This type of design is a bit less susceptible to jitter than an R-2R DAC (like the famous TDA1541 and PCM1704).
   
  But more important is the SPDIF receiver chip in this case. Thats the place where the actual clock is being recovered from the digital input signal. The D1 is not particularly good at this job (not really bad either). Not sure what chip is being used, but likely its something like the CS8416.
   
  Main issue in your case is that the output of the Airport is quite jittery. Comparing it to the USB input is not particularly useful. This is not the strongest point of the D1...... More telling would be a comparison with the digital output of a decent CD player.
  To improve your signal chain when using the Airport you either need a DAC with an excellent jitter rejection or something like an X2 or the Audio GD DI to straighten-up the digital signal. 
   
  The strongest points of the D1 are its analog stages, the versatility (DAC/PreAmp/HeadAmp) and flexibility (Tube AND OpAmp rolling). 
   
  But, to be frank, there are no DACs in the sub-$200 range that do a better job in terms of jitter handling. The nearest option price-wise that does an excellent job in terms of jitter rejection is the Audio-GD NFB-11 ($280).
   
  Not sure if I actually dumbed-it-down or made things even more complicated
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Some straight advice: if you want to use the D1 with an Airport I would advise you to invest in something like an X2.


----------



## ninjikiran

Confused Reclock with Upsample, but upsampling rejects jitters.  A good transport will give you the audio spectrum 44.1khz-96khz though. USB on the D1 is not goood


----------



## Mouseboy007

Quote: 





middachten said:


> Not sure if I actually dumbed-it-down or made things even more complicated
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  SPOT ON middachten! - Now I get it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Regards your advice - do you know of something like the X2 that would be worth looking in to?
  I'd be happy to try the X2 but the Airport Express (although it has a USB port) only outputs through optical. 
  Thanks for the info though! Just what I was after - and more importantly at a dumbed-down enough level


----------



## djnagle

Hi Ninjidiran, What do you mean the USB is not good.  I am really not good at all this terminalogy.  I thought the only way to get the signal out of my computer was to use the USB.  Is there a better way?
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Confused Reclock with Upsample, but upsampling rejects jitters.  A good transport will give you the audio spectrum 44.1khz-96khz though. USB on the D1 is not goood


----------



## attenuated 3db

djnagle said:


> Hi Ninjidiran, What do you mean the USB is not good.  I am really not good at all this terminalogy.  I thought the only way to get the signal out of my computer was to use the USB.  Is there a better way?




He (nijikirian) meant that the USB receiver chip implementation on the Maverick D1 is probably the weakest link in its overall design. The Cirrus Logic DAC chipset will handle files up to 96/24, but if you use the USB input, you are limited to 44/16. The Maverick also has optical and 75-ohm coaxial inputs, and if you have an S/PDIF-out coaxial output on your soundcard or motherboard (many CD, DVD and BluRay players have them), you can go directly into that input for what is probably the best connection. Optical is OK and can sound quite good, but most computer implementations of an optical output introduce jitter with all of the electrical-signal-to-light-and-back-to-electrical signal conversion. A USB-to-S/PDIF converter like my Teralink X2 (budget priced at about $75 new) makes a very good companion to the D1, and included a 1-ppm (part-per-million) clock circuit to stabilize the signal coming out of your computer before it gets sent to the DAC.


----------



## ninjikiran

Spdif on the mav is the best connection, the optical pops on some optical sources and the USB receiver is not high grade.
   
  The D2 should be using the Tenor chip which is quite a bit better.
  
  Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## tgrisham

Stereophile magazine measured the jitter of the digital output of the Apple Express at 258 ps and the analog output at 2400 ps in their May 8, 2005 issue.  Jitter can be measured in many ways, some deceiving, however 258 ps is a respectable figure for a $99 device using an optical digital signal.


----------



## sizzlincok

Just ONE question... I'm looking at exactly the LME49720HA, and it seems to be highly recommended to swap the stock opamps for this.
   
  However. The LME49720HA is not a MDIP opamp that fits in the socket in the D1. The LME49720NA is the MDIP opamp that fits in the socket.
   
  The HA is different than the NA.
   
  If this is so, then why does everyone refer to the LME49720HA to be swapped into the D1 when it's not even the proper chip fit?
  Would we not order the LME49720NA instead for a perfect fit?
   
  ----------------
   
  EDIT: Nevermind. Realizing you all use an adapter on the next page, of the page I was reading. -facepalm-
   
  Now where do I pick up these funky adapters?
  Unless the round metal comes like that, adapted already? 
  I'm ordering from National Semiconductor themselves...
   
  So what difference is there from the NA to the HA?


----------



## Riverback

There's no difference. Its the same opamp just different packaging.
  People prefer the HA because the metal shell blocks "interference" which isn't much considering the noise floor isn't that low.
 You can bend the Pins on the HA to make it fit. I recommend just getting the NA version to make everything simpler
  Quote: 





sizzlincok said:


> Just ONE question... I'm looking at exactly the LME49720HA, and it seems to be highly recommended to swap the stock opamps for this.
> 
> However. The LME49720HA is not a MDIP opamp that fits in the socket in the D1. The LME49720NA is the MDIP opamp that fits in the socket.
> 
> ...


----------



## sizzlincok

Quote: 





riverback said:


> There's no difference. Its the same opamp just different packaging.
> People prefer the HA because the metal shell blocks "interference" which isn't much considering the noise floor isn't that low.
> You can bend the Pins on the HA to make it fit. I recommend just getting the NA version to make everything simpler


 
   
  Ahh! Thanks so much for the quick response!!!
   
  Why not order them all from National Semiconductor. Might as well. LOL
   
  Would it be hard to find a adapter for the HA version?
   
   
  I just realized I kept typing HE instead of NA, on my above post. -facepalm-


----------



## Riverback

I'm not sure about the adaptor, but when uelover sent me his HA he just bent the pins with a pair of pliers to make them fit =p


----------



## luke2112

This guy will trim and fit the pins on the LME49720HA for a DIP8 socket:
   
  http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110666407289&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
   
  I haven't purchased from him so I can't speak for the authenticity of the opamp, but anyway, the option is there.


----------



## sizzlincok

Hmm, intresting. I think I'll just get both, and see if there's a difference.
   
  If anything I'll just bend and trim the legs myself haha. 
   
  Thanks for the help!


----------



## B-Dawk20

Hey guys, I actually remember posting in here awhile back. I just bought this bad boy friday. What should I expect coming from a 30 dollar sound card lol. I did a lot of research awhile ago but I just didn't have the money. The most odd thing happened thursday though. My dad calls me up and says think of one thing you want electronically for me to buy. I was confused because I don't really like people getting me things so I told him nothing. He was all like sarcastically "You got 5 seconds before I change my mind." So the first thing that pops in my mind is the D1 and he was like aight lol. So that is how I am getting my D1. I just don't remember much about it except the fact that I liked what I heard from the customers.


----------



## Riverback

You could do this too. Taken from the other D1 thread:
  http://assets.head-fi.org/0/0a/0ab79729_MetalLM4562HAPic1.jpg
  
  Quote: 





sizzlincok said:


> Hmm, intresting. I think I'll just get both, and see if there's a difference.
> 
> If anything I'll just bend and trim the legs myself haha.
> 
> Thanks for the help!


----------



## sizzlincok

Quote: 





riverback said:


> You could do this too. Taken from the other D1 thread:
> http://assets.head-fi.org/0/0a/0ab79729_MetalLM4562HAPic1.jpg


 
  Ooooo. Yeah. I saw that on the ebay link posted above.
   
  I might want to add a heatsink onto it, so I think I'll see if I can trim the legs, if not, I'm going to leave it like the picture!
  I too don't like heat as the OP of the D1 FAQ thread said. 
  I even have heatsinks in my router... Hehehe.


----------



## Ultrainferno

b-dawk20 said:


> Hey guys, I actually remember posting in here awhile back. I just bought this bad boy friday. What should I expect coming from a 30 dollar sound card lol. I did a lot of research awhile ago but I just didn't have the money. The most odd thing happened thursday though. My dad calls me up and says think of one thing you want electronically for me to buy. I was confused because I don't really like people getting me things so I told him nothing. He was all like sarcastically "You got 5 seconds before I change my mind." So the first thing that pops in my mind is the D1 and he was like aight lol. So that is how I am getting my D1. I just don't remember much about it except the fact that I liked what I heard from the customers.




You should have said WA22 or WA2


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

  
  lol, I'm not that mean


----------



## B-Dawk20

edit: wrong thread


----------



## sebmtl1

I have been reading this thread since page 1, and it convinced me to buy the D1 with the GE 5670w in it. Now i have a question: I currently have a 2011 macbook pro and sennheisers hd650. I do not know alot of audio stuff so this is why i ask what will the connexions be? first, do i use the usb, s/pdif, optical or toslink to connect the maverick d1 to my laptop?? any advice?


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





sebmtl1 said:


> I have been reading this thread since page 1, and it convinced me to buy the D1 with the GE 5670w in it. Now i have a question: I currently have a 2011 macbook pro and sennheisers hd650. I do not know alot of audio stuff so this is why i ask what will the connexions be? first, do i use the usb, s/pdif, optical or toslink to connect the maverick d1 to my laptop?? any advice?


 


  USB prolly. You should also get op amps instead of a tube. Doesn't sound like you'll be using that part.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





sebmtl1 said:


> first, do i use the usb, s/pdif, optical or toslink to connect the maverick d1 to my laptop?? any advice?


 

  
  Use toslink connection. I ran it that way when I had my D1.
   
  The USB implementation on D1 is quite bad.
   
  Coaxial > Toslink > USB for D1


----------



## sebmtl1

You should also get op amps instead of a tube. Doesn't sound like you'll be using that part.
  It dosent sound like i will be using the tube? Is that what you meant B-Dawk? I was excited about the tube. Im a complete noob to this so when you say i should get op amps.. what does that mean in beginner te
  m
  s
   
  ?
   

 the editing is giving me a hard time, my sentence was what does that mean in begginer terms? And for uelover, what does coaxial >toslink > usb for d1 mean in beginner terms? i dont even know what a goddamn toslink or coaxial thing is.. sorry i feel bad asking, any advice??


----------



## sebmtl1

so im reading a bit and you would say i need to use the toslink optical cable in the optical output is that it? if yes, what is the best toslink optical cable i can get??


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





sebmtl1 said:


> so im reading a bit and you would say i need to use the toslink optical cable in the optical output is that it? if yes, what is the best toslink optical cable i can get??


 
  It is toslink cable to transfer data from your mac to D1 so it is optical input, not output. You ain't outputting anything to anywhere. The best toslink cable will cost you 5 times the price of D1. Just get any cheap toslink cable.
   
  If you plug HD650 into the headphone jack at the front of D1, you won't be getting the tube sound because the signal does not flow through the tube. Upgrading the tube is useless.
   
  Please read: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/470639/maverick-audio-tubemagic-d1-dac-amp-condensed-faq-and-info-thread# and don't ask the questions that many other people had already asked and tried to answer for you.


----------



## Riverback

Agreed. Just get a decent toslink or a coaxial with proper shielding, should be around $15-20 unless they're snakeoiling you.


----------



## matt27

I had a brief power outage at my house earlier, and my computer was on at the time. Now, whenever I use the USB audio input on the maverick I get popping and clicking sounds. I have tried multiple usb inputs and different cables and I still get the issue. My usb mouse and keyboard still work fine. could the power outage have messed up my usb ports? my pc was plugged into a surge protector. I don't think the problem lies with the Maverick because all of the other inputs work fine.


----------



## sebmtl1

If you plug HD650 into the headphone jack at the front of D1, you won't be getting the tube sound because the signal does not flow through the tube. Upgrading the tube is useless
   
  Where do i need to plug the headphones then if i wanna use the tube?


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





sebmtl1 said:


> If you plug HD650 into the headphone jack at the front of D1, you won't be getting the tube sound because the signal does not flow through the tube. Upgrading the tube is useless
> 
> Where do i need to plug the headphones then if i wanna use the tube?


 

  
  You can't really....you would need to use the D1 as a preamp to some other source.
   
  I think if you had a CD player with an aux input you could go computer -> D1 tube preamp -> CD player.
   
  Also about the Toslink thing, I would of recommended it but I don't know if a macbook pro has an optical out. My PC doesn't have one nor does my cheap ass sound card so I'm stuck with USB.
   
  Besides, is the USB really that bad? I mean, it's just data right? The only thing I know it doesn't do is perfect 24bit audio but hardly any of my files are 24 bit lossless.
   
   
  Edit: Oh and I know you said that you read the thread but just incase you missed it or didn't understand, NEVER use a pair of RCA to 3.5mm cables to connect headphones to the tube pre-out. They'll get fried(the cans that is).


----------



## B-Dawk20

Got my Maverick today!!! Sounds pretty good and an improvement over my old sound card. I can't wait till I get some opamps though.


----------



## Bill Mac

Not having much HP amp experience but will the D1 be an improvement SQ wise over the HP amp in my Onkyo 886? I am ready to order the D1 but thought I would ask this question first. Any thoughts on the improvements for HP listening the D1 has over HP outputs on AVRs as well. Thanks!
   
  Bill


----------



## sebmtl1

alright thanks man, im just so confused right now but ill make it! BTW, mbp 2011 have optical out yes. So, if i get the D1, i cant use the tube because i need another source in between my headphones and the d1 is that right? And if i dont have that other source in between, can i still use the d1 as a dac/amp anyways??


----------



## Riverback

Quote: 





sebmtl1 said:


> If you plug HD650 into the headphone jack at the front of D1, you won't be getting the tube sound because the signal does not flow through the tube. Upgrading the tube is useless
> 
> Where do i need to plug the headphones then if i wanna use the tube?


 


  You'd need another headphone amp, and just use the D1 as a DAC with a tube pre-out.


  Quote: 





bill mac said:


> Not having much HP amp experience but will the D1 be an improvement SQ wise over the HP amp in my Onkyo 886? I am ready to order the D1 but thought I would ask this question first. Any thoughts on the improvements for HP listening the D1 has over HP outputs on AVRs as well. Thanks!
> 
> Bill


 

 Only if the Onkyo has a really bad headphone amp stage. Otherwise it wont be much of a difference.
   
   
  Has anyone here been able to make the OPA627 work on the D1 with no high dc offset?


----------



## sebmtl1

Quote: 





riverback said:


> You'd need another headphone amp, and just use the D1 as a DAC with a tube pre-out.
> 
> Alright, so if i get this for my laptop http://www.m-audio.fr/products/fr_fr/ProFire610.html , will i be able to use the d1's tube or theres is no point of getting the m-audio and the d1?


----------



## B-Dawk20

Hey guys, just a quick question. Do amps need burn in?


----------



## Ultrainferno

A quick answer: yes


----------



## B-Dawk20

thanks, I'll just listen out to see if the D1 sounds different over time.


----------



## Ultrainferno

I would give it about 30 hours, imho


----------



## B-Dawk20

Alrighty then, is it a drastic difference?


----------



## Riverback

I wouldn't think so. There's nothing to burn in except Caps so its less noticable compared to speaker diaphrahms


----------



## sizzlincok

Just got my D1 today in the mail.
  Worked fine for a wile, but then, weird.. At first my D1 just stopped working, as there was no audio from either tube or regular output. 
   
  Then I decided to switch the opamps of the output with the headphone one, and it worked again.
   
  Some how the non-headphone opamp just stopped working. If I max volume, I can hear a bit of static with music. It's very slight.
   
   
  I didn't touch anything!!


----------



## sizzlincok

What do you guys think about the Maverick D1 vs the Cambridge DACMagic?
   
  I can't seem to find any opinion on it.


----------



## Ultrainferno

You can find a review/comparison here: http://www.digitalaudioreview.net.au/index.php/audio-reviews/digital-source-reviews/item/80-maverick-tubemagic-d1
  Is your device working again?


----------



## Lazerboy2000

I ordered the LT1364CN8#PBF and  LM*4562*NA/NOPB  opamps last night to try swapping them into the D1. Very excited to try them out as it'll be my first time doing opamp changes haha! Sooo now can somebody tell me where each of these opamps go? 
   
   
  ^^^n00b


----------



## petercintn

Hey everyone,
   
  Hopefully I'll get my D1 soon. That B-Dawk20 got his in only a week is comforting, if that holds true I'll get mine tomorrow.  But I haven't got the 'shipped' e-mail yet, so... 
   
  I do have two questions. 
   
  Question 1) 
   
  Do I need to buy an adapter to use as riser in the DAC opamp socket to use the brown dogs I have? Doesn't seem to be much space there. 
   
   
  Question 2)
   
  Now I have to find that one spot in this little thread, here it is;
   
  Quote: 





mavwong said:


> I currently using JW WE396A, previously using Windmill getter Raytheon.
> 
> Raytheon to me is smooth, airy high, but lack weight in mid/mid bass and bass extension. *(take note I have a heavily mod D1, with LM4562 in both stage and tube out is feed to the hp amp of d1, driving apsv3 cabled HD600)*
> 
> ...


 
   
  This is another post where Mav explains how to do the tube out to hpa in (couldn't get the quote thingy to do multiple quotes, I haven't figured that out yet as I'm not a big poster, my sense of humor gets me in trouble!)  I'm bolding it to so you know where my ramblings leave off and the quote starts.

*"my latest version is to solder connection from tube out socket to a female PC fan connector and plug to HP amp in. You can see it in my photo on top of page 94.

 The easiest way of doing it without voiding your warranty will be solder a RCA connector to female pc fan connector wire to feed the tube out to internal HP amp. But this way you have to leave the case off. Last time when I did that the volume is too hot (first version high gain D1 I have).

 Run a connection from tube out to line in won't do it cos we can't select coax/opt/usb input along with line in right? I you want to do it this way you will have to cut the internal line in wire and solder it to female pc connector and plug to hp amp in which is what I did initially. I eventually discard this routing cos the line in have coupling cap feed to HP amp input coupling cap again. Just too many coupling stage and it degrade the sound quality too much. Besides, the external connection pick up AC noise if too close to power cord.

 Mav*

  
*Quote:*


 *Originally Posted by uelover

*
_ *how did you do that? internal circuit modification or just connecting a cable from the back to the front line-in jack?"*_

 


 The biga$$ed bold is mine in the first quote.  I realize that this mod you will lose the tube out RCA's, at least I think I realize that.  But this mod did not make it to the condensed thread and after this little discussion between *Mavwong* and *uelover*, I never heard this again.  Did it not pan out, hopefully one of the two will chip in, cause I may just want to do something similar.
   
  Enough with the questions, hope someone can help.
   
  Good Day.


----------



## sizzlincok

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> You can find a review/comparison here: http://www.digitalaudioreview.net.au/index.php/audio-reviews/digital-source-reviews/item/80-maverick-tubemagic-d1
> Is your device working again?


 
   
  Ooo. Thanks for the link.
   
  I swapped the opamp from the headphone socket to the main output socket and it works.
  So I have it in there at the moment, while the other opamp seems fried.
   
  I messaged Ryan, and he's sending me another opamp for the fried one! 
   
  ----------
   
  Oh, also, I can't seem to clarify the rate that the D1 accepts.
  It seems that the USB only accepts 16bit/48khz.
   
  However, a review on here at headfi says that over optical/coax spdif it accepts higher? Such as 24/96?
   
  Yes? No? Maybe so?


----------



## _Spanky_

That big modification never made it into the condensed FAQ because instructions and details were never provided. I was really hoping to see how that was done but I never heard back from that person.


----------



## Lazerboy2000

I sent an email to Ryan asking for any information about the upgraded D2 version and this was his reply
   
  "We don't have a confirmed release date. The original release date has been pushed back as we want to make more changes in the design. It might be ready within next 2-3 months, it might need more time. 

 Please do let me know if you have any further question.

 Cheers,

 Ryan"
   
  Too bad it's being delayed but it's very good that they're taking the time now to make changes and keep customers happy


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Also, I have a Gamma Y1 lite usb DAC that I'm not using anymore since I got the D1.  After reading reviews that the USB dac of the Maverick isn't all that great, do you think I might be better off using the Gamma into the analog input of the Maverick and then using the Maverick as an amp/preamp?
   
  I'm gonna give this a try in a few days once I finish exams and can just use the input switch of the D1 to toggle between the Gamma and Maverick's own USB input.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





sizzlincok said:


> Oh, also, I can't seem to clarify the rate that the D1 accepts.  It seems that the USB only accepts 16bit/48khz.
> 
> However, a review on here at headfi says that over optical/coax spdif it accepts higher? Such as 24/96?
> 
> Yes? No? Maybe so?


 

 16/48 it is for the D1...


----------



## petercintn

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> That big modification never made it into the condensed FAQ because instructions and details were never provided. I was really hoping to see how that was done but I never heard back from that person.


 


  Thanks Spanky, I understand.
   
  Now on to the other question, will a brown dog adapter fit in the DAC opamp socket or do I need to order one or more sockets/adapters to stack so as to raise the brown dog adapted opamps enough to use.  I'd like to go ahead and order them if I need them so I can go ahead and roll my opamps.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





sizzlincok said:


> Oh, also, I can't seem to clarify the rate that the D1 accepts.
> It seems that the USB only accepts 16bit/48khz.
> 
> However, a review on here at headfi says that over optical/coax spdif it accepts higher? Such as 24/96?
> ...


 

 16/48 for the USB. Anything else sent over USB is likely to be resampled. 24/96 is fine through optical & coax, I feed my D1 24/96 through coaxial.


----------



## sizzlincok

_spanky_ said:


> 16/48 for the USB. Anything else sent over USB is likely to be resampled. 24/96 is fine through optical & coax, I feed my D1 24/96 through coaxial.


 
   
  Oooo. Thanks for clarifying for me. I think I hear a difference between USB and my 24/96 coax feed, but I don't know haha.
   
  Just a suggestion, maybe you should add it in the FAQ for the D1, that 24/96 won't be resampled like it will be over USB, if you use optical/coax.
   
  I read that you said that it was discovered that only 16/48 was being sent to the DAC itself over USB.
  What do you mean "discovered"? How?
   
  I say if such is true, most likely it's the USB chip that's being used. We'll never know unless we know what USB chip the D1 uses.


----------



## ninjikiran

I feel the wait till be worth it, considering the competition the D2 is coming into with all of the new competitors out there.  I am sure it is the result of much review and will result in something that deviates from the others even if slightly.  Probably the best way to go is stay with the tube-pre out, perhaps more elaborate of a design with what they learned from the A1


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> I feel the wait till be worth it, considering the competition the D2 is coming into with all of the new competitors out there.  I am sure it is the result of much review and will result in something that deviates from the others even if slightly.


 

 *shakes head*


----------



## Lazerboy2000

Quote: 





lazerboy2000 said:


> I ordered the LT1364CN8#PBF and  LM*4562*NA/NOPB  opamps last night to try swapping them into the D1. Very excited to try them out as it'll be my first time doing opamp changes haha! Sooo now can somebody tell me where each of these opamps go?
> 
> 
> ^^^n00b


 


  I'm always very nervous messing with electronics. I know somebody once posted a picture of the internals of the D1, describing where to install each of the new opamps but I cannot find it. Can somebody please help tell me where to install the lm4562 and the 1364?


----------



## sizzlincok

Quote: 





lazerboy2000 said:


> I'm always very nervous messing with electronics. I know somebody once posted a picture of the internals of the D1, describing where to install each of the new opamps but I cannot find it. Can somebody please help tell me where to install the lm4562 and the 1364?


 
   
  Um, have you read the D1 FAQ thread? Or this huge D1 thread at all?
   
  There are specific SOCKETS for opamp swapping.
  People have made it clear which opamp on the board affects which output of the D1, RCA outputs, or headphone output.
   
  There's only TWO opamp sockets on the D1's PCB...
  So I don't think you're going to screw anything up.


----------



## Killbox

Is this amp a good match to AKG Q701 anyone?


----------



## petercintn

Finally the mailman knocked on my door Friday around noon with my package from the mysterious orient.  I heard that package was full of audio karma and I had to have it for myself.  My Auzentech Forte's magic ran out about a month ago and forced me to be a common listener of the dreaded on-board sound.  My DT990's started to revolt and began to assault my ears.  I was in desperate straights.  So I heard of a little thing called 'TubeMagic' and knew it was for me.  Indeed, it is.
   
  I plugged her up not expecting anything more than the Forte, it had a highly tooted DAC and HP output.  I never used the DT's out of the Forte, it couldn't drive 'em.  So I brought my AV receiver in and used it's HP out.  Had a shoot out between the Pioneer and a E9 and the Pioneer won, so I'm still using it to amp the DTs, the E9 went back.  I only very briefly tried the HP out on the D1 but its not as good as the Pioneer yet.  This thread has me nervous to try my opa209 and 1161 in the headphone out, till I get a meter.  I did swap the op amp out in the DAC section to a 827 I've had a while and it's working fine.  I have had the D1 pushing electrons since I got it, except for a brief few hours when I had to leave, about 36hrs now.  I think the SS side is broke in, I used the 827 in the Forte for a while.  I think this solid state part of the DAC is just fine.  The preouts are hot, I've had to turn down my receiver about 6% to get close to my normal listening volume. (I've got a 0db to -100db labeled pot so the math is easy.)  I've got the tube out and the ss out going to the receiver so all I have to switch the receiver's input.  One of the reasons I picked the D1 was to introduce myself to tubes and well we'll see.  So far I'm digging the ss, but I would love to have the vocals and the guitars of the tube but I like the tight bass and cleanness of the ss more than than the fat bass and admittedly more musical tube. ( I got the upgraded tube.)  But I am going to give the tube more burn in before I think a whole lot about it.  But if anyone knows of a tube that will give me the clarity of the ss output I could live with fat bass, or is it the compromise that has to be made for the 'musicalness' (disclaimer: I'm not an audiophile, I just like music, a lot!)
   
  I am happy with the DAC so far, it beats any soundcard I've heard hands down, a knockout in the first round.  Glad I got this instead of the Asus card everyone's talking about.  My Beyer's are singing in my ears as I type and making me grin.  It's quite a step up from a soundcard, and it makes me feel as if these DTs have not been driven right till now.  There's just something meatier in the music now, like the DTs are finally using their diaphragm to sing instead of their throat.
   
  The first time I took out the headphones to check out the receiver's sound through the new DAC, I thought I broke something.  I hit the off switch as quick as i could and I then remembered reading about the Direct button.  Wow! So I turned off the direct button and settled a notch lower than the 3 o'clock position on the volume.  Though this got rid of the clipping and static, I thought there was still something wrong, my brain could not understand what it was hearing.  I had my little speakers spread out about 8 feet because I like the wideness of the sound.  But something was wrong now, so I put the speakers on my desk about 3 feet apart and sat down in the triangle and just listened for a while.  My brain finally stopped rejecting what it heard and I realized I was hearing the widest frigging soundstage I had ever heard.  It literally shocked my brain.  I put the speakers back and man, for years all my music has been in my face, attacking me, and I have put my speakers as far apart as possible, against popular wisdom to defeat that 'in my face' sound.  The D1 was what I needed and never knew it.  Everything is there, all the dynamics, all the music, but it is now in its place, even and everywhere, not just in your face.  It just took my brain a while to figure out what it was hearing.
   
  From where I am coming from, blue collar guy, baby food and ex-wives and such left little money for music.  So cheap receivers and who had the time to sit and put on headphones? so I never had any, a luxury expense at best.  But now that I'm retired, (I still have little money as you can well believe) I do have time and I think I got a good buy with this DAC.  I had no desire to use the HP out as around the holidays I plan to buy or build a dedicated headphone amp.  But i think as far as the DAC from what I've groked you have to spend twice as much to get as good and I just don't see myself spending that much or more on a DAC.  At least not while I'm courting this cowgirl of a DAC.  Now I have to go learn a little about tubes.
   
  Thanks for the great thread, it has been a great service to me.


----------



## sizzlincok

^ Just buy the tubes off Ebay. 
   
  If you look real hard, you can pick up a pair of WE 396A tubes for under $40 USD.
  I got 4 for under $40 a pair.
   
  Then pick up some tung-sol 2c51 tubes for under $30 USD for 5, as I did.
   
  I also got the Raytheon 5670, 3 tubes for under $30 USD as well.
   
  And last, just picked up a lot of 10 NOS Russian 6n3p-e tubes to leave them burning in my D1 whenever I don't need the awesomeness of the better tubes.
   
  All the listed tube numbers are the same tube type that the D1 accepts. They just have different model numbers.


----------



## petercintn

@ sizzling  >  thanks and what a moniker!  Are these the only tubes that the D1 will take?  I know a little theory behind tubes, made me study 'em in the navy, but no practical knowledge.  Same with op amps, I've play around with a 714 for guitar effects but that's about it.  My real world experience is a/c or d/c motor controls, instrumentation and general troubleshooting.  We had electricians to mess with the lights and conduit and 110 stuff.  (gotta love the Union)  I did learn about DAC's with the a/c motor controls, Reliance sent me to school in Charlotte to learn 'em since they were putting in a multimillion a/c control system to run our 23 motors synced on the finishing line, (cotton mill.)
   
  But I know nothing about audio, so I must learn at my advanced age.  It will be good for me.  This thread is what made me think a little more about my education, I had never heard of 'dc offset' and that it could ruin my investment in headphones.  My Auzentech Forte's analog side bit the dust with a rolled opa1611 in it, and I had been swapping op amps just to see was up with it, so now I wonder if my ignorance has destroyed a perfectly good sound card.  Time to get back in the learning saddle.
   
  Rolled a opa209 in the Maverick this morning and did not expect much, as it didn't do as well as the opa827 in the Forte but it's liking the D1, at least with my little pioneer speakers.  It now sounds better than the 827, which was my favorite up till the D1.  So I put the opa827 in the hp out and will try the hp out and the analogs (normal and tube pre out) to my receiver's hp out when people start getting home from work and I have to put on my headphones.  I'll try the opa1611, my least favorite with the Forte and the LM4972 someday and report back about how I like them. 
   
  Edit:
  I've got to take back the opa209 thing, got carried away.  Put on Sixx: A.M. and J. Michaels vocals were kinda of harsh and I did not remember that at all, the 827's back in place and Mr. Michaels voice is once again one the best I've heard.


----------



## uelover

Hmm basically all 5670 tube variants as well as 2c51 will work on D1.
   
  One thing to take note is that all tubes have limited lifespan and their sounds will change accordingly.
   
  There are many bad tubes selling cheaply on ebay. They will work but might be far from ideal.
   
  So, just to be on the side of caution when buying one for yourself =)


----------



## sizzlincok

^ Yup. The tubes are like incandescent lightbulbs pretty much. 
   
  That's why I bought a bunch of cheap russian tubes beucase there are SO many, to leave them in the D1 to burn. 
  Use the nice tubes when I want the best quality.
   
  @petercintn - I forogt about opamps. I didn't get into them because I didn't get a chance to get them yet. 
  I want the free samples from National Semiconductor! I refuse to pay for my opamps!!!
   
  I'm using the stock ones, and they sound okay so far, but I'm sure it will sound even better with some better opamps.
   
  Not a headphone user, so I'm not worried about any DC offset.
  I still don't know what that is. LOL


----------



## rbf1138

Could someone compare this to the Peachtree Nova? I can get a used Nova for $900. Obviously this is significantly less money. What would be the major differences I'd find between them? I currently have Grado RS-2i's, Beyer DT880 600 ohms, AT CK10s, Audioengine 5 speakers, Macbook Pro, a nuforce uDAC, and a Little Dot 1+. Is the Maverick a worthy addition/replacement for some of my equipment?


----------



## Riverback

Worthy sidegrade? If only you want to try the tube sound.


----------



## Tyrker

Would this dac/amp plus their amp but a worthy upgrade from a E7/E9 combo?


----------



## Mavwong

Those looking to know how to feed the tube out to the HP amp of d1 pls refers to the photo of labeled inner connection. 2 way to do it here. Make a RCA to 3 pin female connector and open up the case to connect them. Or u can solder the connection at the tube out RCA jack and connect to HP amp in. 




mavwong said:


> alright guys and girls. After rolling in opamp LT1364 and LM4562, I found that my right channel gone. So I do a little check up and found a broken wire. I can't find any of these info here, thus I'm on my own with a set of cheapo multimeter trying to figure out what's all the wiring in the D1. First let's see the internal.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## sfrancis

It's been a while since I visited here last time. Now I just got some new speakers and amp and used D1 as DAC. Definitely sounds better than the squeezebox DAC.
   
  Did the opamp rolling for HP output a while back and now I just ordered LM4562 for the DAC output. Will try the tube rolling as well.


----------



## sfrancis

Question: I currently use D1 as DAC for a 2 channel speaker system, and connection is like: squeezebox -> D1 -> integrated amp. I push down the "direct" button and use my integrated amp to control volume. Is this the correct way to use D1 as DAC ? I assume I can still take advantage of tube output ? The confusion is that my integrated amp already have a preamp stage, but the output of D1 has been through pre-amp stage as well.


----------



## Ultrainferno

The D1 is your preamp. It's always best to use the direct button in that case to bypass the volume pot. I used it like that in the past and it gave the best results


----------



## sfrancis

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> The D1 is your preamp. It's always best to use the direct button in that case to bypass the volume pot. I used it like that in the past and it gave the best results


 

 Thanks. I guess what I'm not clear is: if D1 is the pre-amp, then it was feed into the integrated amp, which has its own pre-amp stage. So there are two pre-amp in the chain ?
   
  On the other hand, if I push the direct button, the volume control is by-passed which means that the signal no-longer goes through the pre-amp stage of D1 ? But doe that mean I can't really take advantage of tube output if I do that ?


----------



## Ultrainferno

Bypassing volume control is not the same as bypassing your pre amp. You can still use the tube out


----------



## milosolo

^^Correct.
   
  I don't use the SS out on my D1, only the tube out. With the Direct button "IN" the source flows through the D1, through the tube out into my main speaker system. I control the volume with the main system pre-amp volume control.
   
  With the Direct button "OUT" there is a significantly reduced signal passed through the D1 to the main system and I use the D1 pot to control the volume. This is the setting I use when I listen to the HP out on the D1. So yes, there are two pre-amps in the chain. A benefit of this setting is that I can shut the main system completely off and listen through the D1 HP out and the sources I have connected to it. I swear I can hear this lower the noise floor late at night!


----------



## Mechnutt

Hi I am new here.  I bought a tubemagic D1 for my son.  It sounds very good but we have a problem with loud popping sounds when ever we change songs on the CD player.  I have tried the DAC in different systems in my house with different CDP's and it still does the same thing.  I have also tried a 3 to 2 prong adapter for the power cord to take the ground out of the equation and it still does the same thing.  In addition, when using the USB connection to our computer, the DAC makes random high pitched sounds.
   
  Has anyone else had this problem?
   
  I like the sound of the DAC but I am going to ask Ryan for an exchange for a new one.  I don't see a fix for the popping sound, unless there is a known grounding issue that has a simple fix.
   
  One other question, I tried it in my reference 2ch system (Parasound A21 power amp and Van Alstine hybrid tube preamp and DAC with a Music Hall 25.2 CDP as a transport, Magnepan 1.6QR speakers) as a DAC/Pre and it sounded great but the volume was limited.  It appears to be an impedence issue.  Does anyone know the specs for the preamp?
   
  Thanks,
   
  Larry


----------



## kingofbeans

How Different is this really from the Xiang Sheng model? I know in the condensed FAQ Spanky says it's evolved into a better product...but internally ( and in terms of sound) is it much different? Also I notice the D2 still isn't out a very little info about it is available. If the D1 at least started out as a Xiang Sheng clone, could the Maverick Audio D2 "start off" as a clone of the Xiang Sheng DAC-02A?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





mechnutt said:


> Hi I am new here.  I bought a tubemagic D1 for my son.  It sounds very good but we have a problem with loud popping sounds when ever we change songs on the CD player.  I have tried the DAC in different systems in my house with different CDP's and it still does the same thing.  I have also tried a 3 to 2 prong adapter for the power cord to take the ground out of the equation and it still does the same thing.  In addition, when using the USB connection to our computer, the DAC makes random high pitched sounds.
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem?
> 
> ...


 


  The USB high pitched noises is typical. Bad USB circuit. Higher-end USB transports usually won't do that but sometimes the grounding circuit in your computer can conflict. Not a big deal, just try to get a good USB transport.
   
  The popping while changing songs, turn the volume off, do you hear the D1 clicking when you change songs? If yes, then it's normal. If not, I would contact Ryan to see if you have some kind of fault in your D1.


----------



## sizzlincok

Quote: 





kingofbeans said:


> How Different is this really from the Xiang Sheng model? I know in the condensed FAQ Spanky says it's evolved into a better product...but internally ( and in terms of sound) is it much different? Also I notice the D2 still isn't out a very little info about it is available. If the D1 at least started out as a Xiang Sheng clone, could the Maverick Audio D2 "start off" as a clone of the Xiang Sheng DAC-02A?


 

 I've seen the pre-html files for the D2 from Spanky's signature. I did some googling of my own. 
   
  All I have to say is WOW. It looks EXACTLY LIKE the Xiang Sheng DAC-02A. The drawings and everything look the same.
   
  3 opamps, with a tube. BNC added...
   
  It's speculated that Ryan and Xiang Sheng are like co-workers or something like so.


----------



## uelover

Or a spy.
   
_jk =)_


----------



## Mechnutt

The popping sound comes through  the speakers very loud when ever we use any button on any of the CD players that I have tried.  I emailed Ryan and he stated that the popping occurs when changing songs because  it see's an intermittent digital signal when changing songs but I think its more that that.  Even turning the CD player on or off causes the loud popping to occur.  It's too annoying to live with. Does any one else have this problem?  If so, then I will return the unit for a refund, if not then I will exchange it for a new one. 
   
  Thanks!
   
  Larry


----------



## uelover

I seriously don't think what you are experiencing is normal. I never had that with my D1 when used with a cheapo CD player connected via coaxial. Even when changing tracks, I don't hear any 'pop' sound as well.


----------



## _Spanky_

Ryan is correct but I'm skeptical that your pops are the digital signal being turned on/off. That's why I recommended turning the volume off/down to hear if the D1 makes a click sound. If it does, it's normal. It did the same thing with my X-Fi digital output when I changed songs or interrupted playback somehow (pausing, stopping, skipping, etc).


----------



## Mechnutt

Thanks Spanky!  I am out of town till Sunday, when I get home I will try your suggestion.  I just emailed Ryan to see about exchanging the unit for a new one.  I am pretty sure that the popping sound is a shielding, filtering  or grounding problem.  I'm no novice to electronics and I also talked to a Hi Fi repairmen at one of the local hi end stores here in Minneapolis and he agrees that what we are expriencing is not just digital switching on and off.  I'll keep you posted.
   
  Larry


----------



## jazzwave

I'm waiting Maverick D1, (status on shipping)
   
  I wil use this machine as DAC or DAC+Pre amp for my PC/notebook rig.
   
  So the planning are:
   
  1.Notebook (USB)-->D1(Output tube)-->Integrated amp-->Bookshelf speaker
    (D1 as a DAC)
   
  or can I configure like this? :
  2.Notebook (USB)-->D1(Output tube)--> Power  amp-->Bookshelf speaker
    (D1 as a DAC+Preamp)
   
  Which one better?


----------



## Riverback

I think you can plug it straight into the Power amp since the Tube output's considered as a Pre-amp


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





jazzwave said:


> I'm waiting Maverick D1, (status on shipping)
> 
> I wil use this machine as DAC or DAC+Pre amp for my PC/notebook rig.
> 
> ...


 


  The volume pot on D1 is bad but the overall performance depend on whether your integrated amp is as good as your power amp.
   
  No one on head-fi can answer you for certain, you need to try it out yourself.


----------



## jazzwave

My D1 came last night,
   
  Open the box, found the D1 with manual, USB , 3.5mm and power cable. The built good enough not feel cheap.
   
  my set up :
  1.Notebook -> USB (orig D1cable) -> D1 (set Direct) -> Inteconnect (RCA) via Tube out - > Integrated Amp (DIY hybrid)-> CambridgeAudio S30
  2.Notebook -> USB (orig D1cable) -> D1 -> Gradolabs SR60i
  I set Foobar ouput Direct Sound USB DAC
   
   
  Here my first impression:
   
  Compare to my previoust DAC (Muse DA20), D1 deliver wider soundstage,clear instrument separation ,bass tight enough ,treble lilttle bit sharp.
  I believe when burn in process finsh, the sound will be  better and more fluid .
   
   
  rgds
  Ron


----------



## Riverback

I suggest trying it with the optical/coax inputs instead of usb if you can.
   
  The USB circuit sounds noisy to me


----------



## milosolo

I'm just curious why you call the volume pot "bad". The D1 responds well to tube and opamp rolling. I have mine in my main system and it's hard to fault its value to performance ratio.
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> The volume pot on D1 is bad but the overall performance depend on whether your integrated amp is as good as your power amp.
> 
> No one on head-fi can answer you for certain, you need to try it out yourself.


----------



## uelover

I did not say that D1 is bad. I say its volume pot is bad and if can, avoid using it as a preamp.


----------



## jazzwave

.
   
  After running more than 8 hours, The  D1 sound geeting better, smoother than yesterday.
  Actually, I expect thicker vocal sound (especially man vocal) from D1 tube but this machine did'nt produce this kind sound.


riverback said:


> I suggest trying it with the optical/coax inputs instead of usb if you can.
> 
> The USB circuit sounds noisy to me


   
  Unfortunately , I don't have Coax output in head unit (Dell notebook).
  While I ordered Squeezebox Touch from Amazon (will come on next week) to pair with D1, this machine has coax and optical output.I will update you the result of this configuration
   
   
   
  ~ron~


----------



## Riverback

Have you tried tube/opamp rolling? Its a good way to tweak the little things


----------



## jazzwave

Quote: 





riverback said:


> Have you tried tube/opamp rolling? Its a good way to tweak the little things


 


 Yes, my D1 upgraded with GE 5670W.
  This tube buffer give wam enough sound.
   
  You will recognize tube sound from D1 easily.


----------



## autosol

Quote: 





mechnutt said:


> Thanks Spanky!  I am out of town till Sunday, when I get home I will try your suggestion.  I just emailed Ryan to see about exchanging the unit for a new one.  I am pretty sure that the popping sound is a shielding, filtering  or grounding problem.  I'm no novice to electronics and I also talked to a Hi Fi repairmen at one of the local hi end stores here in Minneapolis and he agrees that what we are expriencing is not just digital switching on and off.  I'll keep you posted.
> 
> Larry


 

 Hi Larry, did you get some resolve for the problems you were having? I just received my D1 and it seems to be exhibiting the same issues as yours. Have emailed Ryan and await a reply.
   
  Also can someone tell me how to stop the D1 clicking loudly everytime I skip tracks etc, surely this can't be normal??? It's a pain in the butt and very distracting- especially when searching through a music collection- click,click,click,click,click....... is all I hear. I did try searching the forums but couldn't see any specifics on this, so sorry if this question has been answered before.
   
  I had some spare tubes and opamps so have briefly rolled those, have to agree with others sentiments that these do make a noticable improvement to the sound.


----------



## Riverback

Have you guys tried other sources? (USB, Coax, TOSLINK)


----------



## k2doggo

Hi all--I'm wonderig if I have a defective D1, or if this sounds typical to you.
   
  I've noticed, especially in high choral music, a lot of harmonic distortion. When it happens, it's not subtle--it sounds like severe mistracking of a phono cartridge in the inner grooves.

 This is using a USB connection from a laptop, and occurs with both the tube or solid state output, so it's not the (GE) tube. It also occurs whether the D1 volume is set low or high, which seems to acquit the later amp stage from being the culprit.

 What it sounds like is that the computer's output is occasionally overloading the D1 USB input, if that's even possible. Turning down the volume at the computer (using VLC Media Player) does in fact help, although it doesn't provide a completely clean sound.

 Does this sound like a defective unit? Would it respond to an upgrade of the op-amp? Or a new driver on the (Win7) computer itself?
   
  Thanks much for any help you can offer. I've just asked this same question on the Maverick support page.


----------



## k2doggo

Hi all--I'm wonderig if I have a defective D1, or if this sounds typical to you.
   
  I've noticed, especially in high choral music, a lot of harmonic distortion. When it happens, it's not subtle--it sounds like severe mistracking of a phono cartridge in the inner grooves.

 This is using a USB connection from a laptop, and occurs with both the tube or solid state output, so it's not the (GE) tube. It also occurs whether the D1 volume is set low or high, which seems to acquit the later amp stage from being the culprit.

 What it sounds like is that the computer's output is occasionally overloading the D1 USB input, if that's even possible. Turning down the volume at the computer (using VLC Media Player) does in fact help, although it doesn't provide a completely clean sound.

 Does this sound like a defective unit? Would it respond to an upgrade of the op-amp? Or a new driver on the (Win7) computer itself?
   
  Thanks much for any help you can offer. I've just asked this same question on the Maverick support page.
   
  [EDIT: Turns out this wasn't the fault of the D1 at all, which sounds fine, but of the playback driver on my computer...]


----------



## Ultrainferno

Have you tried another player like Foobar? Try setting the buffer lower?
   
  There seem to be lots of issues lately with the latest batch D1s. Mine is still working as it was in the beginning, but I only use it as a pre amp nowadays


----------



## k2doggo

Thanks, you;re right, it's not the fault of the D1 at all, but of the VLC Media Player I was using on the computer--winamp etc etc don't add this "analogue" distortion artifact. Apologies to Ryan and Maverick.


----------



## jazzwave

Quote: 





riverback said:


> Have you guys tried other sources? (USB, Coax, TOSLINK)


 


 Here my set up:
  Squeezebox Touch-> QED coaxial -> D1 ->RCA->Int Amp.
   
  It's clearly that coaxial produce better sound than USB.More relaxing not fatigue.
  Well thats the good news , I have bad new as   well.
   
  After 2 weeks use D1, the blue LED  blinking and die.....
  Contact Ryan via email, he explained that blue LED no stable and suggest me  to change the LED by my self (he will supply the LED).
   
  Too sad, good sound DAC but not completely quality checked.If he already knew that blue led not stable he should not use that kind LED.
   
   
  ~ronni~


----------



## ounwx

To D1 owners: when you plug in headphones, does it silence the rear (RCA) outputs? I'd actually prefer to be able to leave my cans plugged in all the time (with the volume pot set to silent when needed) and still use my speakers.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





ounwx said:


> To D1 owners: when you plug in headphones, does it silence the rear (RCA) outputs?


 


  No it doesn't as far as I can remember


----------



## ounwx

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> No it doesn't as far as I can remember


 


 Thanks! I actually placed an order earlier today after much wringing of hands weighing this against the E-MU 0204 USB. In the end, the option to use S/PDIF and avoid proprietary drivers swayed me despite the $80 higher price tag. Hopefully will have it by week's end and will give impressions then.


----------



## autosol

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Have you tried another player like Foobar? Try setting the buffer lower?
> 
> There seem to be lots of issues lately with the latest batch D1s. Mine is still working as it was in the beginning, but I only use it as a pre amp nowadays


 

 Hi Ultrainferno, when you say there are lots of issues with the latest batch of D1's do you know the exact issues by chance?
   
  I received my D1 a short while ago, and so far im unimpressed with both the issues I'm having with it, and also Ryan at Mav-Audio's vague answers to my questions about these.
   
  Apart from the constant clicking noise when I skip tracks which is sooooooo fecking annoying, the D1 also sends loud pops and static noises through my speakers on track changes or similar via optical, the pops are intense enough that I would be concerned about damage to my speakers.
   
  Does anyone know if there might be a language barrier causing Ryan at Mav to ignore my questions about the pops and static?
   
  I had a reply stating some sources cause the D1 relay to cut in and click, however I'm not sure the implementation of this is right, maybe the D1 is just a POS?
   
  Also I have tried swapping sources, amps, pre, tubes, opamps, cables (mains, interconnects etc etc), and the D1 still has these problems.
   
  So far the D1 and support has been a dissapointing waste of money for me


----------



## Ultrainferno

I said "there seem" to be more issues now compared to a year and more ago, based on the number of posts with people having some kind of problem.
  Maybe more people find their way here or maybe there just are more problems, I don't know what's happening.
  As I said before I never had any special problems with my D1, except for the clicking noise when changing tracks.
   
  Some are very happy with the D1, some are not, but that goes for all products.
  Nowadays I only use the D1 as a pre amp when I feel like playing a CD via RCA on my speakers, which is very rarely
   
  When I communicate with a chinese company, i always put the english and google translated Chinese version in my email, that seems to help.
  Ryan on the otherhand, speaks english well, there shouldn't be any language problem based on my own experience
   
  Good luck solving the issues, do they happen when using usb as well?


----------



## kevmore

The clicking some or all of you are experiencing when changing tracks using the computer is related to the computer, and not the DAC.  I switched from using the usb plugged into my computer to a home made connector that plugs directly into the cd writer using the digital out connector.  I then used a computer power supply to power up the cd writer.  I don't get any clicks or unwanted sounds while changing tracks.  The unit does make some weird sounds when switching sources, but turning down the volume solves that problem.


----------



## autosol

I only briefly used the D1 usb as I found the optical input sounded better. But the clicking happens on two different pc's using the optical using different front ends, a cd transport also, and when connected to my PS3 I without fail get the loud pops and static as the content changes on the PS3 itself.
   
  I do not get any of these problems using the optical outs on these devices when connected up to a multitude of different devices eg other dacs, receivers etc so I can't blame the sources, and have ruled out interconnects/interferance.
   
  Will try Ryan at Mav again to try and see what can be done, and if infact this unit is faulty or the issues are just the way the D1 is designed- in which case I'd avoid the D1 on the basis of risking damage to headphones/speakers.


----------



## Mechnutt

Quote: 





autosol said:


> Hi Larry, did you get some resolve for the problems you were having? I just received my D1 and it seems to be exhibiting the same issues as yours. Have emailed Ryan and await a reply.
> 
> Also can someone tell me how to stop the D1 clicking loudly everytime I skip tracks etc, surely this can't be normal??? It's a pain in the butt and very distracting- especially when searching through a music collection- click,click,click,click,click....... is all I hear. I did try searching the forums but couldn't see any specifics on this, so sorry if this question has been answered before.
> 
> I had some spare tubes and opamps so have briefly rolled those, have to agree with others sentiments that these do make a noticable improvement to the sound.


 


 Hi Autosol, I did not resolve the issue, but Ryan offered to take it back and test it.  If they found nothing wrong he said he would refund my money.  I bought the thing for my son and he decided to keep it and live with it.  I taked with a couple of HiFi electrical designers and engineers and they both said it could be poor shielding, poor filtering, poor grounding or just bad design.  I can maybe understand the digital clicking when changing songs but not when I push any button on any piece of equipment.  And if you have large speakers or have the volume turned up loud the pops are very irritating.  We tried the DAC in my main system with my Magnepan 1.6 speakers which are almost 6 feet tall and the pops were way too loud to live with.  For $200 it is disappointing.  If the DAC cost $30 I could understand it.  The DAC and Preamp both have very good sound in my main system but right now I would not recommend buying one.
   
  By the way, all inputs make the same annoying pops!  I guess I learned my lesson here.


----------



## Mechnutt

On another note, does any one know if the opa0627 opamp superchip fit in the Maverick?  And how does it sound?  Does it have good high frequency resolution and detail?
   
  Thanks,
   
  Larry


----------



## Dirkbike

This is a D1 and A1 opamp and tube review.  I have a D1 with the tube pre out connected to an A1 and listen with Sony MDR-7506 headphones it also works well with B&W 602 S2 speakers.  I often listen to Mozart symphonies, electric violin rock quartets and chorals for the harmony.  Like others I changed the opamps to a LT1364 in U5 and a LM4562 in U6 and I agree it is less shrill and more laid back greatly reducing listening fatigue in addition it increased D1 head room the stock opamps in my D1 began to clip at 1 or 2 o'clock on the volume knob but now I can listen at almost full volume without clipping however I typically leave it at 4 o'clock just in case and use the A1's volume control there is plenty of volume left.  The GE 5 Star 5670 tube in the D1 is brighter more revealing with greater clarity and a larger fuller soundstage than the GE JAN 5670W and restores any sense of loss from the opamp upgrade without increasing listener fatigue.  This combination appears to be all benefit no detriment.  Swapping GE 5 Star 6AK5 for the optional Raytheon tubes in the A1 resulted in nice increased fullness.  This is an excellent combination I loved everything to this point until I tried Western Electric.  The WE 396A in the D1 offers much fuller mids with great timbre making it less revealing than the GE 5 Star 5670 in very positive ways, it is more forgiving on less than perfect recordings widening my choice of enjoyable music to other genres and it further reduces listening fatigue.  Bass and percussion were muddy for the first few hours but cleared up nicely however if your listening choice leans strongly toward bass and percussion you may prefer GE 5 Stars.  Using WE 403Bs in the A1 had a similar effect but at a lower level.  I love the final result.  I also added a Turtle Beach Micro II and glass Toslink cable between my computer and the D1 it resulted in a noticeably clearer sound and less noise over the USB connection.


----------



## starck86

.


----------



## paconavarro

Quote: 





jazzwave said:


> After 2 weeks use D1, the blue LED  blinking and die.....
> Contact Ryan via email, he explained that blue LED no stable and suggest me  to change the LED by my self (he will supply the LED).
> 
> Too sad, good sound DAC but not completely quality checked.If he already knew that blue led not stable he should not use that kind LED.
> ...


 

 Ok Im not alone with that blinking led... I have a week with it so I still might have another week with the led working ...


----------



## vroomskies

Have a question for all of you.
  I'm using my D1 with a pair of M-Audio BX5a monitors that I previously had it connected via the Tube out with RCA to TRS cables and everything was great.
  I recently switched the cables to RCA to XLR and the audio is *extremely *quite.
  Nothing has changed except the cables and I tested the old setup with the TRS ends again and it still works fine.
   
  I'm hoping I just made a stupid error, but I can't imagine what it would be.
   
  Thanks for the help


----------



## B-Dawk20

Anyone try the Beyer DT990 600ohm on the D1? I know the output is rated for such high impedance but a lot of amps out there are rated high but can provide the juice for some 600ohm cans.


----------



## maverickronin

Quote: 





b-dawk20 said:


> Anyone try the Beyer DT990 600ohm on the D1? I know the output is rated for such high impedance but a lot of amps out there are rated high but can provide the juice for some 600ohm cans.


 

 I used to have that combo and the D1 had plenty of voltage for me.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Ok, cool. How did you enjoy the sound?


----------



## maverickronin

I got rid of the 990s but that didn't really have anything to the D1, the 990s were just to bright for me.  I thought it sounded really good at first but the treble got to after a while whatever I had them plugged them in to.  Besides that, what I remember best is was the nice 360 degree soundstage when used with a surround to binaural DSP.  That was my favorite thing about them.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Hmmm, well that is what I hear a lot about it. I really have no idea what a "bright" can sounding can is like so I really am having a tough time deciding between the next cans I want. There are more factors than brightness and the like but at this point the only think I know is I want it to be a very diverse can able to work with multiple genres, good soundstage, detailed, and open. Oh and of course it must work well with the D1. Besides that, laid back, forward, etc. All have no detriment at the moment. The HD650 and DT990 are the only two I've come across so far that I like.


I really wish I could audition some cans.


----------



## maverickronin

Its best to order from a place with a good return policy or buy used so you don't lose much money if you don't like them.
   
  Even auditioning before you buy doesn't always help.  I heard the 990/600s before I bought them.  They sounded really impressive if I only listened for a few minutes at a time but when I got a pair myself my ears were begging for mercy halfway through one album.  Of course plenty of other people love them and I can see why.  Its just different preferences.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





maverickronin said:


> Its best to order from a place with a good return policy or buy used so you don't lose much money if you don't like them.
> 
> Even auditioning before you buy doesn't always help.  I heard the 990/600s before I bought them.  They sounded really impressive if I only listened for a few minutes at a time but when I got a pair myself my ears were begging for mercy halfway through one album.  Of course plenty of other people love them and I can see why.  Its just different preferences.


 


 There is no bad headphone. There is only bad pairing and bad system synergy.


----------



## unl3a5h3d

Anyone got some thoughts on how this does with the K702's. I was considering it mainly for the DAC but it would serve as both primary DAC & amp until the funds build back up. 
   
  The D1 really caught my eye because of it's DAC and tube preamp function.


----------



## cssarrow

GOT MY Maverick Tube Magic D2 Pure DAC today.
   
  After listening to it on both Solid State and Tube Pre-Out for a couple of hours playing a song twice, one on solid state, then again on tube preout to multiple songs.
  I confirmed that Solid State was the winner since im into more modern songs.
   
  The Solid State had a CON of being too digital sounding, as for the tube pre out, it sounded more warm and blended together. However even though it sounded more warm, the blend on the other hand made the vocal and instruments too in sync with one another and you can't really hear the hightening in the singers vocals during climax or even lower pitches.
   
  I'm more of a modern music, hip hop, adele, jason mraz, One Republic, etc. type of person so, i would say the tube pre out would be good for those old school and country music
   
  This was all done through USB to laptop connection at 24 bit | 96KHz from the D2's Tenor chip.
   
  D2 > D1 in terms of DAC.


----------



## uelover

cssarrow said:


> GOT MY Maverick Tube Magic D2 Pure DAC today.
> 
> After listening to it on both Solid State and Tube Pre-Out for a couple of hours playing a song twice, one on solid state, then again on tube preout to multiple songs.
> I confirmed that Solid State was the winner since im into more modern songs.
> ...




Not to forget to mention that tubes need hundred of hours of run in. There aren't much tubes out there that sounded nice out of the box


----------



## cssarrow

^
  DAMN!
   
  Well i don't like the tubes now, so hearing them for hundreds of hours in hope of it improving is torture.
   
  Right now I'm connected to the solid state, my Audioengine A5 and Maverick D2 both only have 4-5 hours of use on them. Would i hear any improvements, say from 100+hours of burn in?
   
  Also in the beginning i heard some small static noise, then moved the DAC to a different location and no longer got it. should i be looking into some better cables? my 3.5mm to RCA aren't gold plated and they don't run direct to the DAC. they are in extentions.


----------



## rpearce1475

Quote: 





cssarrow said:


> ^
> DAMN!
> 
> *1. *Well i don't like the tubes now, so hearing them for hundreds of hours in hope of it improving is torture.
> ...


 
   
  (I added numbers in your post to make things clearer)
   
  1. Yes, if you read through previous posts on this thread people notice very large improvements in 100 hours.  As mentioned, tubes require some time to burn in, and sound much better after (so if you want to burn in for several hundred hours, it should be much more bearable after the first 100)
   
  2. Do you mean you moved the whole unit somewhere else? And what do you mean with your cables being hooked up? This post is kind of ambiguous...


----------



## cssarrow

sorry for the ambiguous sentence i've made previously.
   
  So you're saying the tube will be significantly better after 100+ hours of usage. does that only go for the tube pre out, or would the solid state also show improvements from burn in if i continue to use it instead of the tube pre out?
   
  As for the D2 DAC, it's connected to the AUDIO IN on my speaker which is a 3.5 plug.
   
*Cables:* 3.5MM to RCA FEMALES > RCA Males to RCA Males > D2's RCA Output(Solid State). The cables that i used to connect the A5 to the DAC is not gold plated and is pretty cheap wires. (Thin wires, no shielding)
   
  Would it be best if i buy a 3.5mm that turns directly to RCA Males to connect to the DAC? It will be gold plated of course.
   
  Right now it seems every time i move the cables around,  i get a barely noticable static noise that comes on goes. (only if i touch the cable on accident, then i'd have to move it around until the noise is gone)
   
  Probably something like this?
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YDUZ22/ref=sc_pgp__m_A1DCPNQKKEISZB_1?ie=UTF8&m=A1DCPNQKKEISZB&n=&s=&v=glance


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





cssarrow said:


> So you're saying the tube will be significantly better after 100+ hours of usage. does that only go for the tube pre out, or would the solid state also have some improvements from the burn in?
> 
> *The tube will be significantly better after running in. Solid State (opamps) typically don't benefit from run in but other components in the D2 will benefit from run in.*
> 
> ...


----------



## cssarrow

okay thanks,
   
  i'll buy the cable then, im always a sucker for gold plated cables. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  for the tube pre out, if i want to burn it in, could i possibly just keep the DAC on while the speakers are on low? that way i won't have to listen to the quality. or is it not possible?


----------



## palermo

cssarrow, would you like to take some internal photos for your D2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  Intersted the layout board of TE7022L and AD1955


----------



## cssarrow

sure, but the top screws are those octogon/pentagon shaped hole screws so i'll have to do it tomorrow.
   
  I believe it's going to end up looking like the XiangSheng DAC-02A internally. Seems as though they copy one another or something.


----------



## dashavoo

Hey, I recently bought a TubeMagic D1 after reading lots here on head-fi (I tend to lurk and read, not post).
   
  I was wondering whether I can connect the pre-amp outputs via phono - 1/8" jack converter cable to my Jamo i300's line-in without damaging any of the components.
   
  Any ideas would be much appreciated (I hope this was the right place to post).


----------



## maverickronin

That will work fine.  I have a set of speakers hooked up like that too.


----------



## dashavoo

Ok I excitedly took your word for it and set it up - it worked alright yesterday, but I've got up today and I get a horrible crackling noise through the speakers, regardless of volume, whenever I turn the tube magic on. It worked so well yesterday - what is going on?


----------



## maverickronin

I could be a loose connection.  Double check that everything's plugged in securely and play with the cable while its on and see if the sound changes.
   
  Besides that just confirm that each link in the chain works on its own until you find the one that doesn't.


----------



## MasZakrY

Why aren't there any pictures of the D2's insides anywhere?  I can't even find information on which tube(s) it uses.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





maszakry said:


> I can't even find information on which tube(s) it uses.


 

 Come on. It is stated on their official website.


----------



## ounwx

I've had the D1 for about six months now, and I'm awfully tired of the clicking/popping when switching songs/movies/etc. I've searched this thread and found that quite a few of you are experiencing the same issue. Is there any fix at all? I'm not really an audiophile, and $200 was a big investment for me to put up with quality this shoddy.
   
  - Using USB, the pop is moderate in volume and almost entirely (if not entirely) in the left channel. It also only occurs maybe 30-50% of the time I switch files in foobar, VLC, etc.
   
  - Using coaxial from my onboard S/PDIF, the noise is a bit quieter and sounds more like a short period of static than a discrete pop. It can be heard in both channels, and occurs the vast majority of the time I switch files.
   
  I do not own an optical cable, so have not tried that yet.
   
  I'm running Win 7 x64, default driver for USB, and have the output universally locked at 16/44.1 through the control panel for S/PDIF. So, it's hard for me to imagine that the clicking is because of changing sample rates, as some have suggested.
   
  Also of interest: I made some silent WAV files, put them in foobar, and started hitting "Next" repeatedly. There were very few pops then, whereas switching from a loud rock song seems much more likely to produce a noise. This makes me wonder whether it could be a problem with the digital-analog conversion itself, rather than sample rate?
   
  EDIT: Just to clarify, the clicking is *in the audio itself*, not mechanical noise from the DAC. I just hooked it up to my standalone DVD player for the first time, and switching tracks on a CD playing through that revealed the mechanical click that some of you have mentioned, which is a completely separate issue.


----------



## Zaluss

I've had the D1 since the start and I've also had this issue for awhile. Its been about a year sitting in storage until I decided to bring it out today to try and fix the problem. I recorded the issues and posted it via YouTube so you can hear and see what I'm talking about.
   
  There is a "ticking" coming from around the source switch area as well as a harsh distortion when I select any source via solid state or tube preamp.
   
  Any help or insight to what the problem is would be much appreciated.
   
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atCqlz7fSJM&feature=plcp&context=C3bebd8bUDOEgsToPDskJ2Kq2n9m2ZlLHVzMBUIlYf
   
   
  Edit:
   
  After turning it off and on, now no sound comes in any preamp, any source, anything I try.


----------



## TheGrumpyOldMan

A quick note to those interested in the D2 (& its insides), I have added a post to the existing D2-specific thread:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/578557/maverick-audio-dac-d2#post_8178213
   Oh, and no clicking problems with this one so far...


----------



## hennnkee

Quote: 





thegrumpyoldman said:


> A quick note to those interested in the D2 (& it's insides), I have added a post to the existing D2-specific thread:
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/578557/maverick-audio-dac-d2#post_8178213
> Oh, and no clicking problems with this one so far...


 


  Tank you sir!


----------



## blastomorpha

Hi every one.
  I'd like to build a simple audio system for listening music with headphones, as in december I made the "big jump" and bought a pair of AKG K240 MKII after years of more or less cheap stuff.
  The plan is to use a netbook like the old Asus eeePC 900 or a more recent Samsung N510 with Winamp (my player of choise) or foobar2000, both with the right plugins; this with mp3 and my whole cd collection ripped to flac with EAC, stored in a USB drive. Instead of a netbook I could also use my iPad1, bypassing its DAC with a proper lineout cable. I also have a little vinyl collection and Sanyo Plus Q25 turntable with the classic analog red&white outputs. Then I have a Playstation2 and a Xbox360, both with toslink digital outputs. I have to say that lately I'm enjoying my cds with the PS2 hooked to an old Creative Soundblaster Extigy with digital cable, sure better than my old crappy portable cd player via lineout...
  Said that my budget is around 200€, a user on this forum suggested
  Quote: 





> Fiio E11, Fiio L cable, Fiio D3 or D5 DAC.
> 
> Use the Fiio L cable for the iPad and the Fiio D3 or D5 with the PC.


 
  Getting infos about Fiio I discovered the E17 as an all-in-one solution, but lurking the forum I found also the Tube Magic D1, which costs more looks like perfect for my needs (I don't mind portability that much).
  Can anyone make some kind of comparison to help me making a decision? Thanks for any help.


----------



## chouffe

Hi there !
   
  I am interested in buying a Maverick Audio DAC. 
  I would like to connect it with an usb connection to a NAS Synology to stream music (with ds audio). Does anyone ever try to do that ? Does it works ?

 Thanks in advance for you answer
 Stéphane


----------



## Migou67

Normaly you have to connect the DAC where your audio player is running (media center, computer).I do not know your NAS but I think is acting as a streaming server only.


----------



## chouffe

HI Migou,
   
  Thanks for your answer.
  There is an audio software on the NAS called audio station. Therefore I can stream music directly from the NAS to an airport express or to an "usb speaker". I control the software on the NAS with an application on my iPhone.
  I guess it should work (it works with other DAC) but I would like to be sure before buying..
   
  Stéphane


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





chouffe said:


> HI Migou,
> 
> Thanks for your answer.
> There is an audio software on the NAS called audio station. Therefore I can stream music directly from the NAS to an airport express or to an "usb speaker". I control the software on the NAS with an application on my iPhone.
> ...


 


  Do you happen to be be Belgian?


----------



## chouffe

haha no but well tried 
  "La Chouffe" is a belgian beer !


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





chouffe said:


> haha no but well tried
> "La Chouffe" is a belgian beer !


 


 Yeah I kind of got that being a Belgian. I asked because if you lived close you could borrow my D1 to try it out


----------



## chouffe

Oh ok I understand 
  I live in Switzerland so it would be difficult.. but thanks for the proposal !!


----------



## petercintn

To answer someone's question about the opa627,  it works fine in this DAC, as does a LM4562 or a opa1611.  The opa627 is my fav for the dynamics. the LM4562 is very neutral and has good dynamics, smooth bass, (the 627 can be boomy but I have a 990/600 and a basic Crack, with a Siemens E82CC.)  The opa1611 is a detail monster and has great extension in the highs without being bright to me.
   
  I am sorry to hear about the problems with the later D1s.  I've had mine a while, right after the lowering of the gain in all the D1s and have had ( knock on wood) no problems at all and I like the all the inputs and outputs, the SS goes to the Crack and the Pre-out goes to my speakers (eventially), found I like the Ray. Command Series tube in the D1. 
   
  I would not even consider using the amp in the D1, I tried it once and was astounded at how much music it missed.  But the DAC sounds fine to me.
   
  I'll keep it till Schiit comes out with their DACs, so another year or more?


----------



## Blagnoth

Quote: 





ounwx said:


> Clicking/popping problems.


 


   
  I've been dealing with the same issues. In my case, the clicking/popping noise sometimes occurs DURING playback, especially when playing video files. When this happens, the noise is really loud—painfully so. It happens most often after playback ends or when switching tracks, though. When this happens, it's just loud enough to be annoying. And like you, I've isolated this from the mechanical switching sound. That doesn't really bother me.
   
  I've tried optical, coaxial, and USB input. As you mentioned, each one has a different "character" to its clicks and pops. I briefly gave up and just used the line-in connected to my computer's sound card, but that completely defeats the purpose. Ryan has given me a few tips, none of which worked. I've tried just about everything I can think of. It seems to me the DAC is defective in some of the later units. I'm too lazy to send the thing back to China, so I guess it's time to look for a different solution.
   
_*EDIT: *Hooking up the USB input to my monitor's powered USB hub seems to have fixed the popping during playback. The DAC seems to dislike having the output device having any sort of AC current hooked up to it. Same thing happened with various laptops. Since the monitor has its own power supply independent from the computer's, maybe that's why it doesn't pop anymore? No idea. Anyway,__ that was the worst part. I can deal with the noises that occur when changing tracks or stopping playback._


----------



## emmbee

Just got my D1 in the mail and I'm pleased with it. It was pre-owned and comes with 49720HA opamps. I have some 4562NA's from another project and am considering the 627's. I've read the 49720HA's are just 4562NA's marked differently. Is this true?


----------



## Shroker

Okay so maybe Spanky or someone can help me with some opamp questions.
   
With the OP627, LME49720 and the common pair of LT1364CN8#PBF -- LM4562NA/NOPB and the  
   
If they are good enough price,should I just grab one of each and try them out?.
   
What I want to try is swapping out the DAC chip and the headphone OPAMP.

 I've read like the first 60 pages and everoyne has various responses but kind of want a reply that I can fit without having to flip over a bunch of pages.

 I know the FAQ sort of has some information but I don't know if I need more.
   
Were the chips used in the headphone position or the DAC?
  
EDIT:
 I've gone ahead and sourced the chips I mentioned from ebay. Will still liek to have a dicussion on what peoples thoughts are.
   
I have a Western Electric 396A tube coming in for my D1 to replace the upgraded JAN GE tube in the D1 to see what else will come out of it.
 Burn in a new tube and play around with it. .
   
Looking forward to trying out a new DAC chip and headphone chip.
   
Thanks.
   
   
Loving my D1. I love being able to hook it up to various devices or when I bring it out to a lan party and hook my PC and xbox to it or some other device running optical.

 My PC runs great and same with my speakers.

 I have had my D1 for least 4 months now. Great work, Ryan!


----------



## Shroker

Has anyone tried cap replacing on the D1?


----------



## sKiZo

Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> No, the Maverick D1 does not reclock; I don't know any DAC in the $200 range that does. My Teralink X2 made a HUGE difference in the SQ of my D1 (now with a happy new home), switching from the USB to 75-ohm coaxial input:
> http://www.teradak.com/ProductsView.Asp?id=21
> I ordered it new from a Hong-Kong based eBay vendor who offered free shipping as part of the $77 Buy-It-Now price, but it took forever to arrive. If you are interested, I'd consider selling it to you if I could get an Audio-gd Digital Interface on order to replace it before shipping it to you. It really does make a HUGE difference in SQ, even with my NFB-3. PM me (we have past experience at that) if you are interested.


 
   
*THE TERALINK X2 SOUNDS INTERESTING*
   
  Not sure how much I'd benefit as all my digital library (all CD and analog rips from vinyl) is Redbook (44.1/16). I would expect some improvement in signal quality due to the stronger clocking features. I'm fairly new to this, so don't laugh if I ask if you need a special coaxial connector cable or if I can just use a high quality RCA interconnect?
   
  Also, I checked the mfg website, and they mention an ASIO driver comes with it. Not sure how that works routing from the HTPC's USB out to the Teralink X2, then to the D1, and finally to the analog in on my old school receiver. I assUme that the Teralink X2 (being the first in the chain) is what my music server software (JRiver) will see, and that I'll be able to use the X2's ASIO driver?  Right now, XP sees the Maverick as a generic usb device and JRiver uses DirectSound. Not unhappy with the results, but always looking for better ...
   
  Also ... the external power supply is optional? I couldn't find anything about that. I've got a bunch of 12v bricks that would probably do the job.
   
*ABOUT MY JOINING THE D1 CLUB*
   
  Built an HTPC a couple years back - which ended up mostly collecting dust because of the simply horrendous noise it made using the onboard sound. Replaced that with a Creative E-MU, which was an improvement when the drivers were cooperating - which was a crap shoot at best. Tried a Asus Xonar, which also failed me miserably even with it's wonderful reviews. Picked up on a Behringer UCA202 bi-directional DAC/ADC and ... we be jammin'!!  Cleaned up all the leftover drivers from this and that - ASIO does tend to go down fighting - and finally, got to appreciate that HTPC. That kept me happy for about a year, but ... well ... you know how that goes ... <G>
   
  I've now had my D1 for a couple months. Did some coin tossing on whether to get that or the D2, but the analog in was important to me. Ordered the D1 with the GE tube and OPA627 upgrades, so there wasn't a lot of difference in price between the two. I'm using it exclusively as a tube out DAC, and have put maybe 150 hours on it - maybe a third of that actually glued to the seat cranking it. VERY happy with what I'm hearing. Only tweaks were to switch out to a JW-WE2C51, which really let the soundstage blossom, and bypass the internal fuse in the AEC socket, which eliminated some break up and distortion under heavy load - I've switched back and forth and yes, it DOES make a difference. Not sure what the reasoning is for the teenie tiny fuse that comes with it - the tube warmers alone take up most of it's rated capacity. I suppose I should eventually replace with a higher rated fuse, but most of my equipment doesn't have one anyway, so ...
   
  I was extremely pleased to find that my original plan to get some of that toobey goodness for my turntable also works as expected. The turntable is routed thru a DJ PRE II phono stage, then to the D1 analog in, and finally the tube out to the receiver. The DJ stage was always just a bit weak compared to my other sources, but the D1 provides that extra punch so I don't need to fiddle with the volume any more when changing to either the HTPC or OPPO. Bonus, I get enough additional drive from the D1 that I can turn down the DJ stage which had been clipping a LOT to try and keep up with the other components in my system. I had eventually planned to pick up on a tube flavored phono stage somewhere down the way, but that's no longer required.
   
  Couple other tubes I've rolled ... the GE 5Star that came with it sounded real choice - it did a real nice job overall - no complaints.  But ... part of the fun is rolling. Next up was a TungSol 2C51 - that opened up the soundstage considerably and popped the midrange out a bunch. Vocals were much more ... vocal. Finally, the JW-WE2C51 ... I can't imagine it getting any better. Not to get technical, but it has much more ... muchness. I can see why they're highly rated. I still want to try a GE Command Series and maybe a Tesla 6CC42 - and I can always dream that I'll find a Bendix 6385 that won't require and arm and both legs.
   
*MY ONE DISAPPOINTMENT*
   
  Ryan is as good as it gets for technical support, but we apparently had a bit of a misunderstanding. I'd originally hoped the D1 was a full two way DAC/ADC similar to the Behringer I had. That was as easy as pie for getting digital out of a computer, but just as easy to put analog in for doing vinyl rips. First indication was when Windows did NOT install a USB Audio recording device. Drat. One more email to clarify and ... double drat. Oh, well. I still got the Behringer for that, and there don't seem to be any conflicts having the two of them installed at the same time. That makes for another head scratcher - the Behringer maxes out at 48/16, so if I want to go higher, I end up having to get another phono stage after all - in this case, a DJ PRE w/USB out, which would give me 96/24 into the computer for ripping. Hmmmmmm...
   
  And no problems. Absolutely trouble free operation since day one.
   
*CASE TWEAKS*
   
  Not to leave the thread without my own little contributions ...
   
  If I had to complain about anything, it's that the case fits a bit tight. I ended up taking a dremel grinding stone to the upper corners of the back plate and rounding them over a bit. Still tight, so I shaved the sides just a tad with a fine metal file and rubbed a touch of SylGlide on the inside corners of the cover for lubrication. Slides right on and off now ... perfect for rolling. Little tip - careful masking keeps any metal dust or shavings out of the innards.
   
  One other peeve was the pointers on the knobs. I ended up taking a small pilot drill to them with the intention of filling the indentations with some white paint. Lo and behold, the inside of the knobs are already white, so that saved me a step. On the source knob - if you look close, you can see that the new pointer doesn't quite line up with the old one, but then again, the old pointer didn't quite line up with the source labels on the faceplate. The original lines were almost invisible anyway, so it's not like anyone's gonna notice. I passed a note up to Ryan that if they really get bored sometimes, it'd be an easy mod.
   

   
  (and yes, I read all 162 pages) <G>


----------



## sKiZo

PS ... for anyone who maybe hasn't seen the OPA 627 mod that Ryan does on request ...
   

   
   

   
   

   
  And in one fell swoop, I've doubled my post count.  ;-}


----------



## sKiZo

Dead thread?
   
  Drat ...


----------



## Shroker

Big red socket!. Interesting.

 I ordered a 1364 but it doesn't seem to be working lol. I have to crank it to max to get a sound and then even then it is single channel..

 Glad you are liking the D1 Skizo. I hope thread gets some traffic again.


----------



## ninjikiran

I wouldn't put too much into a device like the teralink, most dacs rock on USB.  The D2 has an upgraded USB section vs the D1(which was shoddy).
   
  I am happy using Juli@ as my transport, coming from the infinitely more expensive halide bridge.


----------



## sKiZo

Having heard about how SPDIF is so much better than USB, I asked Ryan. He says not so's you'd notice. But ... could it be better? Therein lies the question. Still thinking it'd be an interesting experiment, but I'll put it on the back burner for now.
   
  I did come up with a Plan B. Found an SPDIF header on the motherboard of my computer and have an expansion card coming that will give me both coaxial and optical out. That should <theoretically> give me the higher resolution signal into the D1. $15 ... worth trying for that.
   
  Right now I'm putting the money into tubes. Scored a NOS Tesla 6CC42 and an RCA Command 5670 triple mica. Oh ... and just now pulled the trigger on a 1952 Western Electric JW 2C51 d getter. And I swear, that's it for tubes for this thing!
   
  Probably ... Soon as I settle on my favorites, have to have me a garage sale ... <G>
   
  Haven't tried the Tesla yet - saving the best for last? Right now, I'm burning in the RCA Command 5670. Only a few hours on it so far, but I'm liking what I hear.
   
  And this thread is no longer dead. Long live the thread!


----------



## ninjikiran

D1 USB sucks, but the teralink sucks as well imo.  Your better off with a sound card that outputs bit perfect up to a minimum 24/96 but most do 24/192,


----------



## sKiZo

Sound cards suck ...
   
  In my experience anyway. The onboard audio was useless (as expected), so I went with an E-MU. That was fine - when it decided to play nice. More times than not, I spent my days wandering thru the seven levels of driver hell with that POS. Next up was a Xonar, which had real good reviews, but the software front end kept trying to throw in random FX (as in fx'd again) and was noisy to boot. I imagine a lot of the problems are with the creaky old motherboard I'm using - an ECS A780GM-A. Quad core, USB 2.0, so not REAL ancient.
   
  Anyway, I've sworn off onboard sound for now, and taken the pledge ... <G>
   
  PS ... just had an extended listen with the RCA Command 5670. Couple hours aren't enough to really tell, but I think I'm gonna like it. If I had a complaint, the vocals seem a bit distant compared to the '67 JW-WE396A/2C51 I've been using. I also had to crank the D1 gain up a couple notches - that WE is a screamer!
   
  Anybody here migrate over from the D1 to the D2 for comparison's sake?


----------



## patrickmurray

This is a rudimentary question:
   
  I have the Opamp 627 to install in my D1.  I plan to only use the chip for the headphone as this is my only 
  method of using the D1.  Does the Opamp seat firmly into the board?  I am having difficulty seating the chip and thus getting a lot of static/distortion
  in the headphone output.  
  Thanks for any and all assistance.
   
  Patrick


----------



## sKiZo

Rudimentary is good ... I can handle rudimentary. Complicated could get complicated ... <G>
   
  First off, you are aware that you need TWO OPA627 chips mounted to an adapter board similar to the one in the pic I posted up a while back? Knew that you did, but just checking. You also need a riser socket to allow room for the second OPA627 that's located underneath the board. Reason for all that is the OPA627 is a single channel chip, and the Maverick requires a double channel in a single socket.
   
  So, why go thru all that? Based on experimentation (a lot of which was the result of forum tinkers who tried most anything that would fit and was compatible), the OPA627 upgrade was a major improvement over the stock chip. There's other options out there that are easier to install, but I'm real happy with what I'm hearing, so I'll stick with rolling the tube for now.
   
  It's also rumoured that some of the earlier D1 models had the op amps soldered into the board from the factory. A redesign required those to be removed and replaced with another op amp. That could get a bit sloppy and made for difficult swaps. Not sure if that's the problem you're running into with yours.
   
  My OPA627 upgrade was easy ... I let the factory do it. Maybe somebody else can chime in with first hand experience?
   
<tap tap tap> We're waiting!! <tap tap>
   
  Oh. Speaking of tubes. Scored a virgin Tesla 6CC42 and just plugged that in last night. Only has around four hours on it so far, but it certainly sounds promising. The sound stage isn't as good as the JW WE 2C51 I've been using, but the bass is definitely tighter, and it seems smoother across the top also, and that's new out of the box. Just did a listen to Mussorgsky's _Pictures at an Exhibition_, and the horns were sweet ... I did have to turn down the gain a bit (jRiver is real handy for that - the Maverick gain is bypassed), which tells me it's a strong tube. Give it another hundred hours and see what happens.


----------



## patrickmurray

Thanks for the post.  I may have very well installed the OPA627 incorrectly.  I removed the riser sockets from the top of the female socket in the 2 location per your pic on the previous post.  I then inserted the OPA627 on each socket but no adapters or OPA627 underneath the board.  The pic you posted replicates exactly how my OPA627 is seated into the sockets.  Seems to work but perhaps I got this wrong.
   
  Thanks
  Patrick


----------



## sKiZo

I had a feeling that's what was happening. It gets a bit confusing, as many DACs use single channel op amps right out of the box. Having to do the dual to single channel conversion takes a bit more futzing about.
   
  Here's a good pic showing the single to dual chip conversion socket.
   

   
  Only difference is the Maverick requires the additional peg risers to allow enough clearance from the surrounding components. Well, that and the color. Not sure where Maverick get's their conversion boards. Almost looks like it'd fit without them, but you also need to deal with isolating the parts electrically.
   
  Now ... let's see if my internet still works ... <G>
   
  http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/lookout/blackout-monday-dns-changer-know-155840354.html
   
  PS ... sounds like you also got the straight pin OPA 627s instead of the surface mount version. I'm thinking you're gonna run into problems because there's quite a bit of difference between the SOIC-8 (surface mount) and PDIP-8 (dual inline socketed) dimensions.
   
www.ichaus.de/upload/pdf/Package_*dimensions*_*PDIP*_a1es.pdf
   
www.fairchildsemi.com/products/discrete/pdf/*soic8*_dim.pdf


----------



## Shroker

I have a problem. How did you guys get the Sun HDAM to fit in the DAc socket? :S


----------



## sKiZo

I remember reading that it needs a DIP8 socket extension to clear the surrounding caps and such. Problem then is it's too tall for the case. Only options there are to either leave the top off or cut a hole so the SUN sticks up thru it.
   
  I also remember seeing that there's no convenient place to attach the ground wire, but there <should> be enough slack that you can hook it to one of the case screws ... takes a bit of fiddling and coordination to do that ...


----------



## Shroker

Well, I basically have the top left off so extending it is not too much of an issue for me.
  It is partirally pressed in and is usable but I don't know if thats a bad idea or not. .
 I will look for a DIP-8 extension socket.

 I figured I will need it at some point if I wanted to (if I ever feel skilled enough (solder noob). to do cap replacements.

 Thanks for replyin.

 The D1 is super fun to play with and listen to and keeping this thread alive is important! 
   
  eBay time!


----------



## sKiZo

Partially pressed in should be good if it's a solid connection. Can you easily rock the chip in the socket? Then I'd think twice about leaving it that way, but if it seems stable, why not? Be interesting to know if the top cover clears the SUN without the DIP8 extension. Just run a straight edge across to check that. If it's questionable, but you can still slide the cover on, probably not a bad idea to put a layer of insulation - black tape for instance - on the inside of the cover over the SUN to prevent any possible shorts ...
   
  Or ... instead of sliding the cover on, try spreading the sides a bit at the back and putting it on straight down over the back plate, then just slide it forward that quarter inch it takes to mate with the faceplate. I still slide mine on, but I've spread the sides some, which makes it a LOT easier to install. Once it's on, I just put the D1 on it's side and apply a bit of pressure to line up the screw holes on the bottom. 
   
  One tip ... ALWAYS ground yourself before working with op amps or any other ICs. Very sensitive to static. Either keep one hand on bare metal in the case or get a wrist strap.
  
  Right now (at least until I settle on what tube I want to run - ya ... that could happen) I'm just putting the top on upside down to keep the dust out. Got a few more hours on the Tesla, and it's having it's moments. The sound stage is starting to open up, even if it is still a bit wobbly ... time will tell.


----------



## Shroker

I have my D1 with the WE 396A and the SUN HDAM in DAC and oh my. It sounds gorgeous over my speakers.
 I need to finish tweaking my X-can v2. just have to do hte caps for that.

 Anyone try RCA 3 Mica Black Plate D Getter 5670 Tube with the D1? 
   
  Yeah, grounding is always important .
 My computer sucks up most of the dust; the rest i can just air blow it out of there heh.

 It slightly rocks. One end is basically sitting ontop of the caps.

 The case cannot clear the HDAM installed unless you cut a hole out or use the extension leads and lay it side ways.
 I have my left open to vent the heat fully. I just ordered some DIP-8 extensions..Don't know if they are extensions or just sockets but I figure the sockets can be plugged into the D1.
 It comes in 10 so I figure I can just stack 2 and put the HDAM ontop if one doesn't clear the capactiors. Hahahah.

 I am curious how the SUN will sound in the headphone socket. I didn't really bother since I plan to route the sound to my headphone amp but if it sounds nice onboard I might get some money for another one and use it in the headphone socket when I just bring the D1 out to a home lan party or something. 

 Unplug the HDAMs and pack them back in the box and carry the D1 there. 

 Getting the case back on is a pain....maybe it needs some lube.


----------



## sKiZo

Nothing to say you can't swap whatever op amps you're using between the DAC and headphone sides. Rumor has it, you can run either socket without a chip, and likewise with the tube if you're not using the DAC side. Haven't tried it myself. Anyway, that's where those extra risers might come in handy. Set up both sockets, and swap away.
   
  Like I mentioned, I did spread the sides out a bit on mine. That helped some, but sliding was still a problem. Next step was to round the corners of the back plate with a dremel ... that helped a LOT, and it's one of those, if you didn't do it, you'd never spot it, kinda things. Still a bit sticky, so I spread a bit of SilGlyde in the inside corners of the box. Now it slides on and off real nice. Only thing is, I do have to apply pressure to the sides to line up the bottom screws, but that's a small price to pay considering the alternative.
   
  Heck, on those extensions ... stack em all in there and put a flashing light on the top to warn airplanes. <G>
   
  Seriously though, minimum is enough. Don't want to build too much capacitance into the circuit.
   
  And yes - I have tried the triple mica RCA ... those are the Command Series I might have mentioned earlier. No sir ... didn't like it. Sound stage was cramped, and it was a bit on the shrill side. Also, the bass wasn't as defined as what I'd gotten used to. Then again, I didn't really give it a chance to break in (important with NOS), and I'd just scored a 1956 JW series WE 2C51 that was looking for a home. I've also got the double plate Command Series - haven't even tried that yet ... Too many tubes, not enough time ...
   

   
  Granted - I may have gotten a bit carried away, but I started looking and kept finding real deals. I swear, that's it!!
   
  Probably. <G>
   
  PS ... I like the glasses case - just cut a piece of fuzzy velcro and pinched that up into folds to separate the tubes, then stuck it in. Protects the tubes nicely and makes for easy swaps. If it helps any, I've got them arranged in preference order, left to right, rated "eh" to "wOw" ...
   
  - 1969 RCA Command 2 mica - haven't tried it yet, so no opinion
  - 1965 RCA Command 3 mica - already went over that
  - 1983 GE 5 Star - The "upgrade" tube that came with the D1. Real decent, but a bit muddy in the mids.
  - 1972 WE JW-3C51 - Very nice. Good solid bass & dynamic response, wide stage, great mids and tweets
  - 1961 Tung-Sol 2C51 - Like the '72 WE, but mellower. Real nice for orchestral and jazz. Very strong vocals.
  - 1956 WE JW-2C51 - My favorite so far. Combines the virtues of the '61 Tung-Sol and the '72 WE, but with a bunch more punch. Bass is VERY tight. Detail is amazing - I hear a LOT more individual instruments in orchestal pieces than with any other tube.
   
  - 1959 Tesla 6CC42 (not pictured). New to me with just a few hours, so the verdict is still out. Supposed to be about the best in the series except for the Bendix 6385, which tends to be VERY expensive if you can find one. Every tube I got, plus another $50 on average ... I'll pass.
   
  Probably ... <G>
   
  * Worth mentioning ... the first three were a bit tiring as time went on. The last three, I could listen all night ... Once again, jury is still out on the  Tesla, but I haven't reached screaming for the off switch yet ...


----------



## djnagle

Which socket is for the pre amp.  I don't use mine as a headphone amp (sorry guys) so no need to swap the headphone opamp.


----------



## Shroker

Quote: 





djnagle said:


> Which socket is for the pre amp.  I don't use mine as a headphone amp (sorry guys) so no need to swap the headphone opamp.


 
  It is labelled U5. The IC socket on the right of the tube. 

 The IC socket on the far right labelled U6 is the headphone opamp.


----------



## Shroker

Quote: 





skizo said:


> Partially pressed in should be good if it's a solid connection. Can you easily rock the chip in the socket? Then I'd think twice about leaving it that way, but if it seems stable, why not? Be interesting to know if the top cover clears the SUN without the DIP8 extension. Just run a straight edge across to check that. If it's questionable, but you can still slide the cover on, probably not a bad idea to put a layer of insulation - black tape for instance - on the inside of the cover over the SUN to prevent any possible shorts ...
> 
> Or ... instead of sliding the cover on, try spreading the sides a bit at the back and putting it on straight down over the back plate, then just slide it forward that quarter inch it takes to mate with the faceplate. I still slide mine on, but I've spread the sides some, which makes it a LOT easier to install. Once it's on, I just put the D1 on it's side and apply a bit of pressure to line up the screw holes on the bottom.
> 
> ...


 
  I am curious as to how it will sound. I got the triple mica for $15 including shipping. Not sure if thats a bit too much for it but aving those things come across the border sorta the way it is. .

 Have you ever tried the WE 396A? I really, really love it and adding the SUN made it really open up and shine.


 Actually, that is a good point. I don't intent to use the tubeout and the opamp at the same time. If getting the case is easy on and off; I think I will just slide the case off when I take it out and just plug the SUN into the headphone socket.

 Seeing as if I use it at home it'l be pre-out to the X-Can v2 and the regular line out just goes directly from the DAC so .
 I am interested in what the Mica 3 will be like. 

 When in doubt I can probably re-eBay it. Who knows.


----------



## sKiZo

It's this one ...
   

   
  Yah .. I know ... please don't hit me ... <G>
   
  The DAC (line output) is marked U5 on the board. It's the one closest to the tube ...


----------



## sKiZo

Ya beat me to it ...
   
  Quote: 





shroker said:


> I am curious as to how it will sound. I got the triple mica for $15 including shipping. Not sure if thats a bit too much for it but aving those things come across the border sorta the way it is. .
> 
> As said, I didn't really give my triple mica much of a chance to break in, but that WILL happen eventually. Be sure to post back once you have a chance to give yours a whirl. I've seen some really good reviews on it.
> 
> ...


----------



## Shroker

Rebay. HA. That would be hilarious.
 "Hey Jon....doesn't that look like the present I gave you last week?"
 "Uhhhhhhhh."


 I pretty much just leave my D1 on all the time too and just mute the speakers when i go out to keep audio playing through it.|
 I will indeed post back on some tests and curious to try out the RCA triple mica black plate when it gets here. 

 I have those DIP-8 sockets coming in maybe in a week or two. Gold pins like the HDAM. Hopefully double or triple stacking them won't lead to any quality loss.


----------



## MartinV56

http://www.rock-grotto.co.uk/opamp.htm
   
  LF353 > Opa 627 Test


----------



## sKiZo

Good link ... I stumbled across that one earlier in my research. Keep in mind this is strictly concerning headphone applications.
   
  Worth noting for those who don't want to go the single to dual conversion and adapters required to run the OPA627, the AD 823 AN came in a close second, and is a LOT cheaper and also less work as it's a simple swap.
   
  Also worth noting, this is just one guy's evaluation.
  Of course, I agree whole heartedly, so goes without saying he's right ...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I expect my OPA627 pairs are well broken in by now, but I won't complain if they continue to improve ... not that I have any complaints as is.


----------



## elwappo99

Quote: 





skizo said:


> Good link ... I stumbled across that one earlier in my research. Keep in mind this is strictly concerning headphone applications.
> 
> Worth noting for those who don't want to go the single to dual conversion and adapters required to run the OPA627, the AD 823 AN came in a close second, and is a LOT cheaper and also less work as it's a simple swap.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Interest sparked! Could I just snag one of these off ebay? I'm new to opamp rolling, so I'd love some guidance. It looks like I need 3 total? 
   
  I have an original Dac from Maverick, I think those weren't socketed opamps, anyone remember offhand?


----------



## sKiZo

ooPs !!!
   
  http://www.analog.com/en/precision-op-amps/high-supply-voltage-amplifiers/ad823/products/product.html
   
  Looks like the AD823 AN is obsolete and out of production. I checked Mouser, and they don't got it. I'm sure they're out there somewhere.
   
  Anybody??
   
  It looks like the 823 was replaced with the AD8512, which apparently wasn't available when the linked tests were done. It's the correct package and pin assignments, so it should work fine.
   
  Found this for reference:
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/10365/has-anyone-tried-the-ad-8512-opamp
   
  I'd be a bit leary about fleabay as that's the home of pirate chips ... try for a semi-reputable source anyway, even if it costs a bit more. Or, I see there's some listed there (all shipped from China, which is a clue of sorts), so spin the wheel and takes your chances? Most op amps aren't all that expensive (the OPA627 is a definite exception there), so do some shopping and keep your fingers crossed. And yes, the first run of the Maverick D1 had the op amps soldered in place. Not sure how many of those were sold. I see some people also had units where the factory retrofit the boards for sockets, then re-installed the original chips that had been soldered in, making for difficult removal. Only way to tell on yours is to pop the top, which can be a challenge the first time. Back up a couple pages in this thread to get a couple tips there. If you're handy with an iron, you can lift the chips if they're soldered in and install DIP8 sockets and roll away. That would require removing the board from the chassis, also a bit challenging if you're a novice at this sort of stuff.
   
  As always, I disavow any knowledge or culpability due to things like exploding DACs and such. That said, I'd go for it myself, as the reports are consistent in that the upgrade really makes the D1 sing ...
   
  PS ... you'll also want to review the first page of this thread for the pOOp sheet on all that is D1, including chip and tube options. Heck, read the whole thing - I did - and it only took me a month or so. <G>


----------



## elwappo99

Thanks much for your help! I read through most of those pages and found the opamps from digikey for a little more, so no issue there.
   
  I'm pretty sure I had one of the first 20 units, and when I replaced the tube, my memory tells me I noticed they were soldered. What dip8 sockets should I use? I looked on mouser and digikey and couldn't find any pictures. Is it something like this?
   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-8-PIN-DIP-DIP8-IC-Socket-Adapter-Gold-Plated-Opamp-/250975921213?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6f54a43d#ht_1440wt_1166


----------



## Shroker

Yes, elwappo99. Those are correct and I like the gold pin ones. They have sturdy legs and look pretty. .


----------



## sKiZo

ooooOOOOoooohhh ... shiny!
   
  Also got me thinking about doing a bit of rolling myself. I saw some rave comments about using a metal can op amp (49720HA) and bookmarked that as a possibility back when I was researching DACs. Supposedly much quieter and "black" because of the additional shielding with killer range and sound stage. Problem being, I couldn't find anything on pin assignments, and they need to be soldered into a DIP8 socket to fit the D1.
   
  Found these on fleabay just now ...
   

   
  $20, but hey, I'm worth it ... <G> They're a fairly expensive component to begin with anyway - $8 plus the cost of the socket -  so it's actually not a bad deal.
   
  Be interesting to pick one up and see how it goes head to head with the OPA 627 pair I'm currently using on the DAC side of the D1. My box is already socketed, so it'd be a simple plug 'n pray ...
   
  You can do a search on 49720HA in this thread and see the comments on this mod.


----------



## Shroker

I tried the black mica. Great sound but not as open as the WE 396A. Going to burn them in longer but they're not as open and deep as the WE 396A's that is for sure.
 Nice present sound for the vocals and higher notes but I really love the sound of the WE 396A.

 If you don't mind using your D1 without the case. Should grab a SUN HDAM. .

 The sound stage does sound a bit crimped especially coming from the 396A. The lower frequency

 Also, HOLY COW IS IT HOT. Hahahaha.


----------



## fatphotoboy

Hi all,
   
  Will be getting the following DAC. hope I wont be disappointed.


----------



## Migou67

No, its a very good DAC and very use full, I use it everyday


----------



## jeremyarntz

Is it worth the $44 to get the upgraded opamp and tube from Maverick? Especially if I have no interest at the moment in switching them out myself.


----------



## Rook

Quote: 





jeremyarntz said:


> Is it worth the $44 to get the upgraded opamp and tube from Maverick? Especially if I have no interest at the moment in switching them out myself.


 
   
  Anyone have input on this? I'm curious about the same thing. The Maverick D1 looks like it'd fit the bill for a decent DAC/headphone amp to pair up with my old dvd player.


----------



## sKiZo

I can't give you a head to head comparison as I went with the upgrades right out of the factory after reading other user's reviews. What I can say is that the OPA627 op amps are highly regarded, and the upgrade price is very reasonable if you price the individual components. Maverick also does a burn in test on every unit before shipping, so you're out any DIY worries. It's not just a simple plug 'n play either - some assembly required as you're replacing the original dual channel op amp with TWO single channel amps (there's another one underneath the adapter board) ... twice.
   

   
   
  That said, if it weren't for the reviews and head to head comparisons, I might have just gone with the stock setup. And always wondered what I missed.
   
  Ditto on the tube. The baseline Chinese tube is rated adequate at best. Also subjective in that if you don't do any comparison, it probably sounds fine. I just went with the GE upgrade there also. Since then, I've developed a bit of a "rolling" problem here ...
   

   
  Arguably, the most important part for fine tuning the sound to your particular tastes ... and I just couldn't stops myself ... I swear, I'm done buying tubes ... for now ... probably ... <G>
   
  (Not shown is a 1959 Tesla 6CC42. Just added that to the collection. Considered the "holy grail" in the lineup, but ... eh. Sounds thin to me - I expect that's because it's OEM "new" and has real low hours on it - probably just needs some more burn in to make it sing.)
   
  The tube of the day is a GE Command Series triple mica 5670. Surprisingly, that's my current favorite - surprising in that it's the cheapest one I got. Very defined soundstage and smooth all across the frequency range. Maybe a bit light at the deep bottom, and the gain is lower than the others, but hey, that's what they make sub synthesizers and volume controls for ...


----------



## sKiZo

Oh. I did make one other mod to my D1 ... dremeled off the lower flanges on the top. No amount of bending and tweaking loosened it up to where it'd slide on and off without a struggle. Probably not an issue for most, but with my rolling habit, a good thing.
   

   
  Pops right off now and you'd never know just looking at it. I cut it close to the corners with a cutoff disk, then used the edge of the disk to deburr, round off, and smooth the edges.


----------



## Shroker

Hey hey .
 You will love it.
 Even more so as you start mucking around with modding them if one wants to.


----------



## chuckle490

Would the D1 be good for Electronic music?


----------



## Shroker

I believe so. I play plenty of electronica through mine. I think in the end it also depends how good your headphones are at handling them .
 What I love about the D1 is being able to play around with it and change it over time in little steps.The tube here, the dac chip there. Eventually getting one of Audio-gd's HDAM for em .


 I love being able to use the D1 as a multi-source device.


----------



## Shroker

I just took the whole thing off . Mine is open top now . Made it easier to move the audio-gd HDAM around too haha.
   
  Quote: 





skizo said:


> Oh. I did make one other mod to my D1 ... dremeled off the lower flanges on the top. No amount of bending and tweaking loosened it up to where it'd slide on and off without a struggle. Probably not an issue for most, but with my rolling habit, a good thing.
> 
> 
> 
> Pops right off now and you'd never know just looking at it. I cut it close to the corners with a cutoff disk, then used the edge of the disk to deburr, round off, and smooth the edges.


----------



## chuckle490

Thank you very much for answering my question, I currently use the Ultrasone HFI-580 and this will be my first real DAC/Amp. What kind of cable will I need to use my ipod classic with this amp? Also do I need any other equipment with the D1 or just a source component the D1 and my cans?


----------



## Shroker

That is the awesome part about the D1. As you noticed on the website, it has all the information listed out.

 Source in can be done through RCA to a 3.5mm splitter; optical and USB .
 If you have your iPod out you can use a 3.5mm cable and plug it into the line-in for the front (you'll need an adapter; I don't remember if it comes with one but Monoprice.com has them for inexpensive prices and good quality!)

 Then you can just plug in your headphones to the headphone jack in the front or use the preamps to connect to a headphone amp later in the future.
 With that in mind, you can also plug in your XBox, PS, Blu-ray player or whichever since most of them all will have optical out on them. .


----------



## chuckle490

I think that has pretty much made up my mind! One last question, what will the sound difference be like compared to my Fiio E11 portable amp? Will the soundstage be wider?


----------



## Shroker

I have not personally used the E11 myself but out of the box I really enjoyed it. What you can do, actually, is use the pre-amp stage on the D1 (tube output if you like) using an RCA to 3.5mm or 3.5mm adapter for RCA cables and plug it into your E11 and see how you like it. . See if they synergize or not.

 Lots of play and upgradability with this little baby.


----------



## chuckle490

haha ive made up my mind! Thank you for all the info!


----------



## Shroker

You're very much welcome. . The FAQ has lots of info too.
 I've basically change the tubes and the DAC chip (very easy to do as the D1 is designed to have the DAC changeable). 

 If you have speaker systems you can set them up to connect via out the outputs too.
 The outputs for the D1 has both tube output and straight from the DAC chip. .

 Hope all goes well for you!
 If you are able to afford it, getting the upgraded kits is a good start. If you're willing to start fresh out of the box as standard and get hte components else where (which is what I would have done if I had to buy a second one) it is also a good way to start.


----------



## chuckle490

I'm going to get the $244 version. What DAC is yours?


----------



## Shroker

I orignally bought the D1 with the upgraded tube.
 I now have a WE 396A tube in it and a Audio-GD SUN HDAM in the DAC slot .

 Sounds beautiful.


----------



## mjdupuis

[size=small] http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/d1p[/size]
 [size=small]  [/size]
 [size=small] Looks like there's a new D1 "plus" model. Includes "up to 24bit/192khz digital audio support, Tenor 7022L pro audio USB interface and improved circuit design." It seems like a substantial update for $10 extra.[/size]


----------



## Shroker

Hmm. That is quite interesting. I wonder how the improved circuit has helped.


----------



## _Spanky_

The USB should be wayyyyy better now. Bit-perfect audio that's driverless and cross-platform. I think there's a few other things upgraded like capacitors but I'm not 100% sure. The D1 Plus is now a very hard to beat all-in-one for it's price.


----------



## Shroker

I am curious about those capacitors as I have been thinking of replacing the D1 I have with Panasonic FM's and the likes.


----------



## sizzlincok

D1 PLUS??? Ooooo. Must resist...
   
  Do you think Mav Audio will accept our old units and do a "upgrade" to them?


----------



## Shroker

Like a bump up upgrade and swap the boards?. Hmmm.


----------



## Shroker

Hey Spanky, what's the current rating on the D1?


----------



## _Spanky_

No idea on the current rating. I don't think Ryan would do upgrades since the USB is built into the main board, but I could be wrong.


----------



## Shroker

Bummer. I will fire an e-mail his way and ask for both cases. .


----------



## sizzlincok

When I said upgrade, I was thinking of just swapping the boards... However, that makes it no more different than paying an extra fee for exchanging the old D1 for a D1 Plus unit.
   
  Ask that too in your email, if we can exchange our D1 units for a D1 Plus.


----------



## mjdupuis

I saw a thread (on Audiokarma: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=489142 ) mentioning an adjustment that Grant Fidelity suggested if one intended to use the TubeDAC-09 as a Pre-amp ( https://shop.grantfidelity.com/files/Grant%20Fidelity%20Tube%20DAC%20modification%20instruction.pdf ). I know that there are _some _similarities between the D1 and tubeDAC-09, but am not sure where they differ. I will use my D1 plus, which hasn't arrived yet, as a preamp and was wondering if anyone knew of the jumper-for-preamp-use with the D1, or if the designs are completely different in that respect.
  Excellent thread, by the way. The community here has done a great job. Thank you.


----------



## Shroker

Quote: 





mjdupuis said:


> I saw a thread (on Audiokarma: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=489142 ) mentioning an adjustment that Grant Fidelity suggested if one intended to use the TubeDAC-09 as a Pre-amp ( https://shop.grantfidelity.com/files/Grant%20Fidelity%20Tube%20DAC%20modification%20instruction.pdf ). I know that there are _some _similarities between the D1 and tubeDAC-09, but am not sure where they differ. I will use my D1 plus, which hasn't arrived yet, as a preamp and was wondering if anyone knew of the jumper-for-preamp-use with the D1, or if the designs are completely different in that respect.
> Excellent thread, by the way. The community here has done a great job. Thank you


 
  There is no jumper required for the D1. It has two outputs, one for tube-preamp and one for analog (straight through DAC, bypass tube) output on the back.

 Is that what you mean? (Correct me if I'm wrong guys  )


----------



## B-Dawk20

Might be pairing the D1 with a good ol' 650 soon!


----------



## sKiZo

Mods: We need a new section in this thread for the D1+ ... it's a whole nuther aminal!
   
  Short answer ... the D1 is NOT upgradable.
   
  Short answer ... I for one couldn't resist. <G>
   

   

 Got my shiny new D1plus the other day and have around 30 hours on burn in. Basically fired up a playlist in jRiver and have had that pushing tunes for maybe 6 hours a day. Several listening sessions logged also.

 Using the New! Improved! Tenor USB stage, the sound is already crisper than that of the D1. Soundstage isn't what I'm used to, but that figures, as the D1+ is currently running the stock Chinese 6N3 tube and the basic op amps. I plan to burn these in for maybe another 50 hours just to see what they can do, then swap back to the D1 w/upgrades for a head to head. That's currently got the OPA627 op amps and a 1972 JW series WE2C51 tube ... my favorite. Do a couple swaps to get a feel for the differences, then switch the WE tube into the D1+, try that, then swap the OPA627 op amps in for the full effect. From what I've already heard from the Tenor USB upgrades already, I expect to be suitably rewarded for my efforts.

 Worth mentioning - this is my first experience with the Chinese tube and standard op amps as I ordered my D1 with the upgrades installed. The D1+ started out down around 5db from the D1 (with the OPA627s and WE2C51). After around 20 hours, it began to pick up and is maybe 2db down now. Should be interesting to see when and if that levels off. Also, the WE2C51 is a hotter tube on output, so it's not surprising the 6N3 is having trouble keeping up.

 PS ... anyone out there contemplating the TubeMagic or similar tube DAC, DO consider some tube swapping. Very important and noticable differences in performance and output from tube to tube. Don't ask me how I know ... <G>
   

   
  Yes ... I know ... I have a problem. ;-}
   
  In the case of the current Chinese 6N3, it's got a very respectable sound (if a bit thin in the mid bass compared to my premium tubes), but there is a bit of ringing in the high registers with a hard load. That's a fairly common complaint with this tube. The ringing does tend to calm as the tube breaks in and gets some miles on it. The JW, 5 Star, and other such "military grade" tubes don't have the problem as they've got major reinforcement in their design to eliminate resonance and noise. More micas, improved damping, heavier components, better wire, etc ...

 OK ... I promised pics ...

*The original D1:*


   
<< High res pic HERE >>

*The new D1 Plus Edition:*
  

   
  << High res pic HERE >>

 Lots more changes inside the box than outside, which is why the D1 is NOT upgradable. Full redesign on the USB section of course, and there's a whole lotta tweaking in the pre section also. Major change in the addition of a third op amp that I'd think offloads common functions and timing from the channel specific op amps to improve isolation and allow those to concentrate more on the detail. Power looks about the same. LOTS of surface mounting replacements for what were once conventional components, so probably less attractive to the tinkers amongst us. Some value changes on common components, I expect based on real world performance and user feedback. Some position swapping about on the board  Example: relays for soft switching relocated to the back of the main board instead of on the control daughter board. This seems to have calmed the POP when changing inputs on the fly - I'll still turn speakers off before doing that as it's more or less habit now, and I'm running low on fuses for my tweeters. Also, major streamlining in the signal path with the elimination of the BYPASS switch AND volume control in the DAC signal path. The volume knob is strictly for the headphone jack as shipped, but I'm told there is a way to add the volume control back for the DAC with a couple wire swaps if necessary. I always ran mine on bypass anyway, so doesn't affect me at all.

 The case is identical except for the faceplate, which is a good think for a habitual tweaker like me. The cover has always been a PITA to remove, and if anything the one on the D1+ is even tighter. I ended up cutting the bottom flange off the cover on my D1, and it slaps right on the D1+ ... joy!
  

   
  Here's a potential deal killer for many ... they moved the print on the selector dial closer to the knob. Oh noooooooOOOOOoooos ... 

 Anyway ... I'm going for longest post of the day here ... what do I win??

 PS ... anyone with a D2, feel free to post up pics for comparison ...


----------



## Shroker

Very interesting! I am curious how this would sound with the SUN HDAM and the WE 396A tube. I like the bigger caps. Yummy.

 I really enjoyed my 396A tube with the SUN HDAM. Outputted to my modded X-Can V2 for Headphone and AVR for speakers.
 How do you find yor upgraded D1 compared to the stock D1+.

 Very curious on how this compares to the D2. I'd imagine the D2 would be similar minus the headphone output.
 The D2 also had 3 OPAMP chips.

 It would feel like the D1+ is basically the D2 with a built in Headphone stage.


----------



## sKiZo

Lest we forget the analog in ... that's why I went with the D1 in the first place, and why my upgrade path was to the D1+ instead of the D2 ... I really like being able to drive my turntable thru an external phono stage and then the tube out. Adds a real mellow vibe to it. If I had a complaint, it's that I can't use it to rip vinyl - still using a Behringer UCA202 for that. And really - I could care less about the headphone stage ... it's more fun cranking the big boxes at 200+ watts in the early AM. <G>
   
  Currently, comparing the two, the D1 still comes out well on top of the D1+. Brand new tube and basic op amps compared to the upgraded OPA627s and premium tube, that's to be expected at this point. That said, using the USB input, the soundstage is easily on a par with that of the D1 and the output is technically cleaner even without the upgrades - it just currently lacks the PUNCH and flavor of the D1 w/upgrades. I'd switch the tube and op amps now, but I want to stick with my plan as described in the previous post and see just how good the basic D1+ is. Hard part right now is NOT fiddling with the system controls, as I want an apples - apples test. Also, in a perfect world, I'd have another set of each flavor tube and op amp combinations for quick A/B switching, but ... all my money's in tubes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  And ya ... I imagine there's a lot of similarities in the D1+ and D2. Can't say for certain, but I expect it's analog in diehards like me that may have pushed for the D1+ hybrid and they brought that out just to stop our whining. Then again, it could have been an intermediate design that was already in the books before they decided to trash the headphone stage and analog in, and somebody figured, why waste the effort ... put it out there, and see what happens. I ain't complainin' ...


----------



## MkElement

Quote: 





skizo said:


> but I'm told there is a way to add the volume control back for the DAC with a couple wire swaps if necessary.


 
   
  I am a newbie here, I got the D1+ with upgraded opamp and tube for about a week now. And its my very first dac. I use it for my desktop active speakers. 
  It would be nice if there is a way to use the volume control for both rca and headphone output.


----------



## zerocoolhifi

Quote: 





mkelement said:


> I am a newbie here, I got the D1+ with upgraded opamp and tube for about a week now. And its my very first dac. I use it for my desktop active speakers.
> It would be nice if there is a way to use the volume control for both rca and headphone output.


 

 I believe the volume control bypass button switches whether or not the the RCA outputs are controlled by the volume control knob


----------



## reiserFS

Can any of you guys take a picture of the PCB in the D1+? Still good to know that people are adapting my initial HDAM mod. I gotta say that my finger's been itching to get a D1+ for my desktop rig and mod it.


----------



## Shroker

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> Can any of you guys take a picture of the PCB in the D1+? Still good to know that people are adapting my initial HDAM mod. I gotta say that my finger's been itching to get a D1+ for my desktop rig and mod it.


 
  The HDAM has been purely enjoyable. Matched with the WE 396A it is very good sounding. I've been wondering how to adapt the similar to the D2 and D1+.


----------



## MkElement

Quote: 





zerocoolhifi said:


> I believe the volume control bypass button switches whether or not the the RCA outputs are controlled by the volume control knob


 
   
  The D1 plus (newer version) doesnt come with a bypass button switch. What i do now is i set my pc volume at 100%, set my active speakes volume at 9 o'clock position, then adjsut the voulme on the media player ( foobar / youtube etc... )
   
    
  Quote:


reiserfs said:


> Can any of you guys take a picture of the PCB in the D1+? Still good to know that people are adapting my initial HDAM mod. I gotta say that my finger's been itching to get a D1+ for my desktop rig and mod it.


 
   
  On post #2490 sKiZo poseted some high res photos, inside shot of D1 and D1+, not sure if thats what u are looking for.


----------



## zerocoolhifi

mkelement said:


> The D1 plus (newer version) doesnt come with a bypass button switch. What i do now is i set my pc volume at 100%, set my active speakes volume at 9 o'clock position, then adjsut the voulme on the media player ( foobar / youtube etc... )
> 
> Dang that was a feature I wanted to have a fixed line out to feed my 2.1 system
> 
> ...


----------



## zerocoolhifi

mkelement said:


> I am a newbie here, I got the D1+ with upgraded opamp and tube for about a week now. And its my very first dac. I use it for my desktop active speakers.
> It would be nice if there is a way to use the volume control for both rca and headphone output.



So the volume control on the front does not adjust the RCA outs?


----------



## MkElement

zerocoolhifi said:


> So the volume control on the front does not adjust the RCA outs?




The volume control is for headphone out only.


----------



## zerocoolhifi

Quote: 





mkelement said:


> The volume control is for headphone out only.


 

 Excellent - that is what I want since my 2.1 system has its own volume control.


----------



## reiserFS

That's exactly what I was looking for, much appreciated.
  Quote: 





mkelement said:


> On post #2490 sKiZo poseted some high res photos, inside shot of D1 and D1+, not sure if thats what u are looking for.


----------



## zerocoolhifi

Can anyone throw out some observations on how the headphone amp sounds with any IEMs?


----------



## reiserFS

I just took a look at the internals of the D1+, judging by the pictures, moding them with a HDAM should be very possible without cutting a hole. The reduced length of the volume control and input pcb allows for a HDAM to be placed right there with extension cords.


----------



## junkimchi

About to pull the trigger on the D1+ with full OPA627 and tube upgrades on my limited budget. Have been looking at the original D1 for over a year now and I think its about time.
   
  So just to be clear the RCA outs on the back (both tube and non tube outs) are NOT controllable with the volume pot correct? This is going to be replacing my Fiio e7/e9 combo in hopes that the Tube out will warm up the sound a bit. If I sound delusional please slap me right now.


----------



## Hailin

I just bought D1+ with the full upgrade. I am hoping to use it flat out but if I have to I will pair it with my E9 for my K702 Anniversary and my soon to order HE400. Not sure if I need the E9 at all with both headphones but the added warmth of the tube upgrade, does it color the sound? Will hopefully be a nice pairing for both headphones.
   
  I can report back the difference of the E09K/E17 and D1+ if anyone cares. My source will be a realtek onboard so your opinions may vary from mine.
   
  Really hope the shipping is as fast as you all say I would love to have it by the weekend if I don't no biggie. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I am sure Canada Customs will hold it they love to do that with certain items.


----------



## junkimchi

^ you and I have a eerily similar setup lol. I too was hoping that the tube pre-out of the D1 would warm up my K702's a bit when powered by the Fiio E9.


----------



## sKiZo

This just in for all you folk with the volume control questions.
   
  The volume control is disabled for the analog out from the factory, BUT ... it can be enabled by switching a couple jumpers on the main board.
   

   
  Those jumpers basically replace the bypass switch that was on the D1. They still recommend you leave things as is unless it's a real problem. It's all about keeping the signal path as short and clean as possible.


----------



## sKiZo

Quote: 





hailin said:


> I just bought D1+ with the full upgrade. I am hoping to use it flat out but if I have to I will pair it with my E9 for my K702 Anniversary and my soon to order HE400. Not sure if I need the E9 at all with both headphones but the added warmth of the tube upgrade, does it color the sound? Will hopefully be a nice pairing for both headphones.


 
  The tube output makes a major difference in the sound, and each tube will "color" that sound and add a unique flavor. Same with op-amps.
   
  Just don't become a tube whore like me ... <G>
   

   
  I switch to the standard analog out every now and then just to see what I'm not missing. I seldom use headphones, so can't be much help there. One of the major benefits of the D1 series for me is the analog out so I can get that tooby goodness from my turntable via an external phono stage also. Wouldn't need that for a cassette, R2R, or other analog unit that has adequate output. As always, experiment.
   
  My progress report ... been putting some miles on the D1+ and it's breaking in nicely. I got it with the basic tube and op-amps and plan to switch to the upgraded components that came with the D1. Got to hear the Chinese 6N3 for the first time. It came in 4-5db lower than the tubes I've been using out of the box, but caught up at around 20 hours. Good overall performance, but a bit cramped compared to what I've been listening to, even with the improved USB output from the Tenor stage. Also had some ringing.
   
  Switched to the GE 5Star and that woke it right up. Wider stage, improved dynamics across the band and the mids and vocals gained a whole bunch of zing. Listened to Borodin's 2nd last night, and it's never sounded better. Next part of the plan - switch to the OPA627 op amps and see what happens there.
   
  NOTE >> I mostly use the D1+ USB stage fed by my shiny new HTPC. jRiver Media Center allows me to adjust the resolution on the fly - right now I've got everything set to output at 88/24 to the Maverick. I don't use S/PDIF (coaxial/optical) as the RealTek chipset on the motherboard has "issues". Even the D1's lower resolution USB stage ran rings around that for overall sound quality. Something for yall to keep in mind out there - it's a system, and everything has to play nice together. I suppose somewhere along the way I could start playing with add-on cards to change the S/PDIF chipset, but as well as the USB is doing, there's not much incentive. It sounds very very choice as is. And yes, the Tenor stage is a major improvement, in resolution and dynamics, and overall satisfaction. Even using the basic tube and op-amps, it keeps right up with the D1 with all the upgrades. As mentioned, it's already pretty outstanding with the GE 5Star tube, and I haven't even swapped to the better op-amps and "premium classic" tubes yet. I expect major improvements with those.
   
  Short version ... I LIKE IT I LIKE IT!


----------



## Shroker

I wonder if the D1+ would be able to take the audio-gd SUN HDAM's. I am quite curious on how that will play out.


----------



## sKiZo

Can't imagine why not - they both use the same op-amps and look to have adequate spacing available to cram them in.
  
  I'm waiting for the mad scientists to come up with substitutes for the OPA 2604 that was added to the mix... way I hear it, that's strictly to offload IV conversion from the primary op-amps, so not sure if it'd make any difference sonically.
   
  OPA 134 / OPA 2134? Sucks a lot of power, so maybe the board can't handle it ...
   
  LM 6172? Similar characteristics to the OPA 134, but less demanding.


----------



## Shroker

I think to rephrase what I mean't is how many are needed.


----------



## Hailin

Quote: 





skizo said:


> The tube output makes a major difference in the sound, and each tube will "color" that sound and add a unique flavor. Same with op-amps.
> 
> Just don't become a tube whore like me ... <G>


 
  Good news thanks for letting me know. I will be interested to see if the D1+ itself can push the K702 Annie. 
   
  I really hope I don't as my wallet couldn't take it. After this purchase it is catch up time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Two more quick questions, 
   
  Does anyone know the headphone output impedance? It is not listed on the website. I know my E9 is 10ohm.
   
  Does it have a selectable gain? I noticed there is nothing on the front or back is there a jumper inside to switch it around. 
   
  Thanks


----------



## sKiZo

Way I understand it, the unit is infinitely variable and able to drive up to around 600ohm based on the position of the volume (gain) control. I do know that Maverick has modded the design several times over the course of production to address hum issues with extremely low impedance cans. They had the circuit dialed in on the later model D1, so I wouldn't expect it to be a concern any longer. Main thing is to start out with the volume ALL THE WAY DOWN, as the Mavs have an extremely wide range and can drive 600+ ohm cans nicely. Stands to reason, with your load, you'll just barely be cracking the volume (gain) control. Needless to say, you could cause serious damage with a slip of the wrist.
   
  There are no internal adjustments that wouldn't involve swapping resistors.


----------



## NinjaVampire

Do you reckon the D1 Plus is the best 200 dollar amp/ dac available at the minute?


----------



## reiserFS

They will fit in with extension cords judging by the pictures.
  Quote: 





shroker said:


> I wonder if the D1+ would be able to take the audio-gd SUN HDAM's. I am quite curious on how that will play out.


----------



## Shroker

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> They will fit in with extension cords judging by the pictures.


 
  That is what I am thinking. I wonder if I'd need two or one. My friend has a D2 which has a similar setup to the D1+.


----------



## reiserFS

Friend of mine ordered a D1+, so I can report back on my findings in a few days.
  Quote: 





shroker said:


> That is what I am thinking. I wonder if I'd need two or one. My friend has a D2 which has a similar setup to the D1+.


----------



## junkimchi

How long did it take for you guys get get the product? I'm in the US.
   
  Also I didn't get any sort of confirmation other than the paypal? Is that normal?


----------



## Hailin

Quote: 





junkimchi said:


> How long did it take for you guys get get the product? I'm in the US.
> 
> Also I didn't get any sort of confirmation other than the paypal? Is that normal?


 
  That is the same thing I got as well. No clue about tracking or any of that stuff. I am waiting as well but I did just order Morning/Tuesday morning.


----------



## sKiZo

Now that you mention it, I remember having tracking and all that on the D1, but not on the D1+. Huh. Maybe trying to save a buck and pass it on, what with the cost of shipping going out of sight lately ...
   
  Anyway ... ordered mine Dec 20 and had it in hand on Jan 3 ... not bad at all for halfway around the world during the holiday rush.
   
  This thing just keeps getting better and better. Still haven't swapped in the OPA627s yet either - just the GE tube ... sweet! It's probably got around 60 hours on it now as is - maybe I'll fire up a playlist and let it talk to itself overnight to speed things up. Nice thing about DACs, you don't have to have the speakers cranking during break in. The components are still cooking as long as there's output from the DAC itself.


----------



## junkimchi

^ The upgraded OPAMP and the tube comes separately? Or are you referring to your own personal swapping that you experimented with?


----------



## Hailin

Quote: 





skizo said:


> Now that you mention it, I remember having tracking and all that on the D1, but not on the D1+. Huh. Maybe trying to save a buck and pass it on, what with the cost of shipping going out of sight lately ...
> 
> Anyway ... ordered mine Dec 20 and had it in hand on Jan 3 ... not bad at all for halfway around the world during the holiday rush.
> 
> This thing just keeps getting better and better. Still haven't swapped in the OPA627s yet either - just the GE tube ... sweet! It's probably got around 60 hours on it now as is - maybe I'll fire up a playlist and let it talk to itself overnight to speed things up. Nice thing about DACs, you don't have to have the speakers cranking during break in. The components are still cooking as long as there's output from the DAC itself.


 
  20th to 3rd with 2 major holidays in between isn't bad at all. 
   
  Please keep us all updated, but your updates don't make the wait any better. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Swapping the e17 and e9 around with the D1+ is going to be a ton of fun for me.


----------



## MkElement

Quote: 





junkimchi said:


> How long did it take for you guys get get the product? I'm in the US.
> 
> Also I didn't get any sort of confirmation other than the paypal? Is that normal?


 
   
  I ordered mine on Dec 24, got the tracking no. on Dec 31, the D1+ left HongKong on Jan 3, arrived on Jan 4. I am in Canada.


----------



## sKiZo

Quote: 





junkimchi said:


> ^ The upgraded OPAMP and the tube comes separately? Or are you referring to your own personal swapping that you experimented with?


 

 http://www.mav-audio.com/store/index.php/tube.html
   
  Both the tube and op-amp upgrades make for significant improvements but are available separately. There's a lot of different op-amp upgrades you can make, but the OPA627s are a strong contender for top honors without having to do any major mods to the box as with the HDAMs.
   
  Not saying there's anything "wrong" with the basic box - just that there's a lot more "right" with it with the upgrades.
   
  If I had to chose between either the tube or op-amps ... I'd get both. <G>
   
  If I really really really had to chose, I suppose I'd go with the op amps first. Maverick does the install and burns 'n tests them prior to shipping, so no worries, eh. Swapping tubes is pretty basic. Hard part is getting the dang cover off.
   
  Also, that's a very reasonable price on a quality tube. You can certainly get better (see the posted list) but it'll set you back a bunch more. Certainly safer buying from Maverick than off the fleabay. There, ya takes yer chances.


----------



## Hailin

^ That is what I did. I love technology but not enough to want to dig into the box. Did that enough as a teenager. Destroyed many a tape deck doing that.
  My HE400 has just shipped the race is on now!


----------



## Hailin

So my HE400 arrived from Hong Kong yesterday. My maverick just shipped now. They must have need some extra time with the upgrades and burn in testing to complete the order. Very lucky I was just about to order the Compass 2 from Audio GD. It does have a tracking number you just have to log into your Maverick account and it will be there if they have shipped it.


----------



## Shroker

Ooh! I wonder ho the HE400's will run on the D1(or D1+?). can't wait to read.


----------



## Hailin

Quote: 





shroker said:


> Ooh! I wonder ho the HE400's will run on the D1(or D1+?). can't wait to read.


 

 I will let you know. I unfortunately won't have the K702 65th Anniversary around to compare with it though as I got my RMA info finally. Wanted to sell it in Canada but I just didn't have the patience to keep the auction up. I really don't like the AKG house sound vs my HE400s.
   
  Edit:
  My amp was suppose to come today but DHL really screwed the pooch with me. After 4 phone calls and local dispatches getting the reprimand of their lives I still don't have it in my possession. So they are switching the address to my office and delivering it Monday. The trace officer told me heads would roll if I don't have it by Monday. Wait a pain.


----------



## Hailin

Look what arrived. Only had a few minutes to test it out. Does it ever have some crazy gain on it. I had it on 2 with my ksc75 and it was plenty loud and clear. Can't wait to get some better headphones on it. 
   
  Edit: I have been listening to this all night. I have been switching back and forth between optical and usb frequently. I can't for the life of me figure out what it is but optical sounds more natural to me. I am sure this is my brain playing tricks on me. But I just can't figure it out. 
  The maverick sounds quite different then my E09K/E17 setup I didn't think it was going to but it does. The E9 setup is darker closer. Everything on the Mav sounds more distant. Not in  a bad way because it is across the whole spectrum. Drums for some reason sound so sweet with this setup. The beginning of Fiona Apples Left Alone is amazing. So stellar. But again further away compared to the E09K. 

 It is just something I need to get used to. Makes me wish I had kept the HD598. 
   
  I did have some hum when I used my mixamp with the rca input. I just unplugged everything and plugged it all in again and the hum disappeared so I must have bumped something originally. 
   
  Any ways back to testing.
   
  I was wonder though has anyone paired this with a headphone amp like the O2? I would like to get down to 1ohm on the output for my cal and KSC75 and lower ohm headphones like that.


----------



## junkimchi

I have received mine also with similar results.
   
  How I would describe USB vs Optical is that USB seems to sound a lot more aggressive in attacks. As in hits sound more hard to the point where its almost displeasing on some headphones. Optical seems to be a little bit more smoother but overall the D1 (plus with upgrades) seems to be overall a very forward sounding DAC/Amp.
   
  Tube Pre-out vs Normal RCA out: Very subtle difference and I am not sure if I could do pass a double blind on it yet. However for now the tube pre-out seems to have a slightly rounder sound that is less aggressive. 
   
  Comparing it to the E7 as a DAC, it is noticeably more open with a better soundstage with vocals being clearly improved.
   
  Current setup for me right now is optical to the D1 -> tube pre-out -> Fiio E9 -> AKG K702.
  The amp is soon to be replaced by a Little Dot MK II. Please ask me some questions so I can have things to test before I go crazy.


----------



## Hailin

I had this awfully long winded post and I closed chrome like a dork. Long day.
   
  I am really enjoying this setup. I think I am going to try the E9 tonight through the tube.
   
  If I was a bass head I would love the USB dac portion. I like bass and think it should have some impact but I am not a Head so I prefer the soundstage of optical. The problem is I only have bassier phones right now. It is insane the impact is kind like a punch to the ear drums sometimes.
   
  Just listening to Weezer and the attack and speed is great, could just be the extra current though punching through my CALs. I still find the variable gain to much with weaker headphones, I would have preferred a switch or button. I am just being nitpicky though. 
   
  So I wouldn't run a run of the mill low ohm IEM on it you would blow your ear drums out.
   
   
  Junkimchi are you going to be selling it or using it as a dac to the little dot?
   
  Edit: Just pulled out my superlux 668B which is around 60ohms. Much better and sounds really nice. 
   
  You are right the tube preamp is smoother. Deciding if I like it more as well. It is not as engaging.


----------



## junkimchi

My E7? Already got rid of it since the D1 was superior to it


----------



## Hailin

Quote: 





junkimchi said:


> My E7? Already got rid of it since the D1 was superior to it


 

 No, your D1 is it going to be a straight dac to your LD?


----------



## junkimchi

Yes that is my current setup right now the Little Dot came a few days ago. 
   
  Everything sounds really good so far, tubes are still far from burned in though. I am currently using the NON-tube out to the Little Dot, in half fear of the sound being colored too much. I also feel that the normal out is more forward with the sound signature which suits the feed into a tube amp better than the slightly weaker signal of the tube pre-out.


----------



## Hailin

Ah ok cool. I am still thinking of pairing the tube out with an O2 or the new Asgard2 for my DT990 600ohm which would be nice to be able to use my lower end phones and higher end phones. The Maverick is great but completely useless with lower end phones due to the massive gain I am experiencing. Still when I get those volumes right it can go from a nice wide soundstage to a bass machine depending on the song.
   
  Who knows when I get my company bonus I might just get a compass 2 to compare.


----------



## junkimchi

I would also like to point out that the stock headphone out on the unit is dismal. It pales in comparison to actual standalone headphone amps as it should.


----------



## sizzlincok

I didn't know the D1+ had a new design that removed the direct button.


----------



## zerocoolhifi

I've been reading that this thing may not have the best headphone output SQ and especially for IEMs. I know it would work well with my 2.1 system as a preamp but anyone comment on just the SQ of the headphone out and how it would work with IEMs. Thanks.


----------



## junkimchi

Headphone out sound quality is bad.
   
  Not sure for IEMs, but its bad on for headphones imo, so it's probably bad for IEMs too


----------



## Hailin

For my MadDogs and DT990/600 it sounds ok, I think it could sound better but deciding on an amp is a nightmare when you want to avoid tube rolling. To many great choices out there. 
  For low ohm/low voltage headphones like the CALs it is a NIGHTMARE. I Hate it! IEMs would be a friggin awful nightmare. I had to hook my E9K up to deal with that.


----------



## zerocoolhifi

Thanks for the Info!!


----------



## tranv117

Sold my Schiit M&M Stack to pick up the Maverick D1 Plus and so far I have absolutely zero regret! 
   
  When I had the Schiit Stack, my music sounded flat and very "directed." Now with the D1+, music became so much more spacious! Very wide soundstage and I'm loving it. Only complaint so far is headphone out is pretty lame. Nothing special whatsoever with it. 
   
  Overall, still need some break-in time before I can make any final conclusions.


----------



## Shroker

Get a nice WE 396A tube for it and mmm


----------



## sKiZo

Pretty please to all new owners ... do mention what options you got or if it's a basic unit. The OPA627 and GE tube upgrades make a major difference in the sq ...
   
  Also, if you're running low impedence cans ... Maverick did play around with the basic gain quite a bit before settling on what's current. Lotsa folk wanted to be able to drive lotsa different types of phones, and what yall got is a compromise. There were quite a few attempts to tailor the circuit to specific phones with good results. Mostly involving swapping out a resistor or two. You can either check back thru 2600 some odd posts (some odder than others) or hope somebody who's done it drops by and takes the mystery out of it. Better yet, check back to the index on page one and look for mod links ...
   
  And no help here ... I've got some phones, but never really use them. I went so far as to plug mine in to make sure it worked.
   
  And yes ... tube rolling can have some amazing results ... problem is that those of us with self control issues don't know when to stop ...
   

   
  Somebody stops me!! <G>
   
  PS ... my current favorite is a 1972 JW WE 2C51. Real strong performer with a nice smooth curve top to bottom. I've also got the stock Chinese 6N3 and a Tesla 6CC42. Mostly if I do swap out, it's to the Tesla - brighter and lower output than the WE, but all in all a good performer that still needs some more hours on it to make it sing ...
   
  Oh. Also worth mentioning ... All S/PDIF (optical and coaxial) is not created equal. A LOT of computers have ***** components - Mine was one of them. I got MUCH better results disabling the onboard version and adding an expansion card. I recently rebuilt the HTPC and the new board is better than the old one with the expansion card, so if you're not happy with it, that could be the problem. Yet another swapping opportunity ... somebody hep me!


----------



## Vinnces

I have been eyeing this for my HD650 for a bit now but reviews seems to be mixed on it.  Correct me if I'm wrong but from reading the posts here it's basically a good DAC but the Amp section is weak and you did need another get another Amp?


----------



## zerocoolhifi

Thanks my take on it, I am currently looking at the TianYun Zero , its little cheaper and seems to do all the things I need as well as being a decent headphone amp.


----------



## Hailin

For the price and what the Maverick is capable of supporting it is pretty hard to beat for the price. Next up in the price range for an amp/dac that supports analog as well as digital in is the Compass2 from audiogd but it is about 200more. 
   
  The amp section is fine, I just didn't like the hardcore gain with the stepped attenuator. I could never find a comfortable volume. With powered speakers though this isn't a problem. Hence why I went back to my E09K/E17 setup it is just better for my needs. 
   
  IMO it is a better Dac then AMP/DAC. But if you don't need analog in then there are a lot more choices out there.


----------



## Mechnutt

Quote: 





skizo said:


> This just in for all you folk with the volume control questions.
> 
> The volume control is disabled for the analog out from the factory, BUT ... it can be enabled by switching a couple jumpers on the main board.
> 
> ...


 
   
  When you enable the volume control, does it allow the D1+ to function as both a DAC and Preamp?  I bought a D1 (and upgraded the tube and opamps) for my son but I was thinking about getting a D1+ and giving it to him ( I would take his D1 and use it with a little Dayton DTA-100a amp and a pair of monitor Audio S1 speakers).  The D1+ will be used as both a DAC/Preamp with a Class D Audio CDA 254L digital amp and PSB B6's speakers.  Also, does any one know how it compares in sound to the Grant Fidelity DAC-11.  I use a GF with an upgraded vintage Holland made Amperex ECC88 1962 non-A frame tube which lends tremendous air, sound stage and bass.


----------



## Zaluss

Its been about a year or so but life has been crazy and my D1 was put away. 
   
  I'm still having popping/hissing/static issues with the D1. No longer plays anything but that.
   
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atCqlz7fSJM
   
  I shot a message to Ryan despite it being way out of warranty but perhaps I could pay to have it fixed. I just have no idea whats wrong. Every source has this same noise. No matter the connection, speakers, or cable combinations.
   
  Any ideas?


----------



## Zaluss

Anyone?


----------



## Magnum26

I was thinking about one of the D1+ DAC/amp units or a Aune T1 would anyone have any idea which one is better?


----------



## tranv117

Can't comment on which is better but I was deciding the same thing before I bought the Maverick Audio D1 Plus. Ultimately decided on the Mav Audio due to its input options as well as esthetic finish. To me, the Maverick Audio just looks more professional albeit "entry level" DAC. 
   
  I bought it with the GE and OPA627 upgrades. Two days after receiving the unit, I decided to purchase the WE JW 2c51 396A tube and have not turned back since. It's an overall beautiful unit.
   
  Currently setup:
   
  Macbook Air + 27" Thunderbolt Display --> Maverick Audio TubeMagic D1+ --> KRK Rokit RP5G2.
   
  Prior to using this setup, I've tried numerous combos of DACs including EMU 0204, Schiit Audio M&M Stack, Nuforce UDac2 plus numerous Studio Monitors such as the Mackie MR5MKII, Audioengine A5+. 
   
  So far, this is the best setup I've liked thus far. Finally starting to enjoy my music rather than always looking to move up in the price bracket to try and "upgrade."


----------



## Zaluss

My D1 has finally just stopped putting out any sound at all. Still waiting on a response from Maverick Audio


----------



## hodgjy

Neither surprises me.  I had the D1 and it was a huge disappointment with some manufacturing defects.  Rather than fixing it, Ryan offered me $40 to shut up.  Good luck.
   
  Quote: 





zaluss said:


> My D1 has finally just stopped putting out any sound at all. Still waiting on a response from Maverick Audio


----------



## junkimchi

Also had a similar problem where the left channel on my D1 died. Reseated the OPAMP and it was fixed, but then later the headphone out was shot (it was terrible as a standalone amp anyways). But yeah I agree that its a very shabby unit that I wouldn't recommend to others.


----------



## Zaluss

Quote: 





hodgjy said:


> Neither surprises me.  I had the D1 and it was a huge disappointment with some manufacturing defects.  Rather than fixing it, Ryan offered me $40 to shut up.  Good luck.


 
   
  Thats disappointing. Sadly I still haven't received any word from Maverick about it. I tried multiple channels of communication with no avail. My first email noted that I was also interested in the A1 to combo with my D1 but since the lack of response I decided to pick up a CA 640A v2 for cheap on Audiogon. There is a local repair shop here in Seattle willing to look at it so I may take it there. 
  Quote: 





junkimchi said:


> Also had a similar problem where the left channel on my D1 died. Reseated the OPAMP and it was fixed, but then later the headphone out was shot (it was terrible as a standalone amp anyways). But yeah I agree that its a very shabby unit that I wouldn't recommend to others.


 
   
  I'll try reseating the opamp. I took it apart already to check for shoddy solder but didn't see anything.


----------



## tranv117

Zaluss, 
   
  Any news on getting your unit repaired?


----------



## Zaluss

Quote: 





tranv117 said:


> Zaluss,
> 
> Any news on getting your unit repaired?


 
  I haven't gotten a chance to bring it in. I also still haven't heard anything from Maverick Audio/Ryan so I've pretty much given up on that. Real shame considering I really liked the unit.


----------



## Shroker

It Sucks hearing people having bad luck with their D1. I k kw the early production units were finicky but figured by now it'd be okay. Best of luck to those needing repairs.


----------



## shahrass

Hi. I need advice from experience D1 users.
   
  1) My D1 works perfectly, I just wanted to replace the LED. But my new LED keep dying! Sounds funny but I already burnt 5 LEDs. I have checked the LED terminal using mutimeter. DC setting on multimeter reads nothing but the multimeter's needle vibrate as it reads AC voltage. On AC setting, it reads 6.5VAC? 
   
2) Whenever I turn ON/OFF any switch in my room, the USB connection reset! There is a loud static sound come through speaker. It was very annoying while watching movies. 
   
Have any of you encounter these problem before?
   
Thanks.


----------



## Shroker

What do you mean by the USB connection resets? If a connected device powers off; the computer will no longer see it as a connected device.


----------



## shahrass

It was like unplug and plug back the USB. The sound went to my laptop speaker and after a while (maybe after reconnect the device) it went back to my A5.


----------



## VTHokie83

Anyone interested in buying a Maverick Audio TubeMagic A1 amp, D1 or D1Plus Dac/Amp, or the D2 DAC....price considerations.
  
 Maverick Audio has always offered upgraded OPA627 OpAmps and NOS GE 5670W tubes for their line, but they tended to be a bit expensive compared to mods you could do on your own. It looks like they've taken notice, and started offering package pricing with the mods on their products across the board. The link is
  
 http://mav-audio.com/store/
  
 Additionally they are offering an additional $15 off any product using the check out code "15OFF". I just picked up a D2 DAC with all upgrades and shipping for under $300, after the $15 off. A bit less than it would have been a few months ago.


----------



## Stillhart

Are people still having problems with these?  They look like a great option on paper, checking off everything I'm looking for.  But if they're built poorly and have poor support, I'd just as soon spend an extra few bucks on something that won't break...


----------



## Shroker

Apparently never got the notification for this.

 This may be due to the windwos driver changing its "default" speaker device. Not sure. I run my through the optical.


----------



## VTHokie83

Best product I've ever purchased, the single best item in my audio chain except for my Thiel speakers.


----------



## jazzwave

skizo said:


> Mods: We need a new section in this thread for the D1+ ... it's a whole nuther aminal!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



 


I have the original D1 with upgraded tube (GE?) for 2 years, thinking to upgrade opamp to OPA627 as well.
How to change these opamps, is this plug and play or need soldering work? 

From picture above I saw only 2 opamp for D1 need to be replaced bt OPA627, please correct me.

rgds


----------



## B-Dawk20

Oh, I forgot to say it here, I finally got an HD650 to pair with my old D1!!!


----------



## sKiZo

jazzwave said:


> > I have the original D1 with upgraded tube (GE?) for 2 years, thinking to upgrade opamp to OPA627 as well.
> > How to change these opamps, is this plug and play or need soldering work?
> >
> > From picture above I saw only 2 opamp for D1 need to be replaced bt OPA627, please correct me.


 
  
 Bit more complicated than it looks. For one, you're replacing TWO original op amps with FOUR OPA627's using a BrownDog adapter. Here you can see one OPA627 mounted on top, and what you can't see is another below. It's hidden by the extension pins. You need those so the bottom op amp clears the socket. The chips are surface mount too, so you need good eyes and a steady hand to put it all together.
  

  
 Fear not! You can get the upgrade components direct from Maverick, for not much more than you'd pay for the individual parts. The board's already socketed, so once you get the new ones, pop 'n drop ... carefully of course ... you'll be pleased with the results!
  
 I saved some money when I got the D1+ by ordering it without the upgrades. Just swapped the ones from the D1 in ... I should probably sell that one of these days, but it's nice to have a backup handy.


----------



## jazzwave

sKIZo,
Thanks for information, I will contact Ryan for new opams.
I wish somebody has video and uploaded to Youtube...How to changes D1/D2 opams...

rgrds


----------



## VTHokie83

sKiZo,
  
 I agree that building your own OpAmp upgrade with surface mount chips can be difficult for some, but there are ready made "brown dog" upgrades already available on eBay that would make the work easier. I have WAY too many irons in the fire to currently try in the near term, but I certainly have a future plan to try the OPA637 upgrades at some point. I hear there is not a tremendous variation from the OPA627, but I heard the same about power cables.....and my Volex 17604 power cord upgrades ranks right up there with any other changes I've made in my system.
  
 But as always your mileage may vary, I guess that's why this is such a personal passion for us....finding that which brings us the greatest joy.


----------



## jazzwave

Guys,
I checked in ebay, found dual OP627 for $7.5/pcs, compare to pict in maverick site..its look similiar. 



http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Pieces-Dual-to-Mono-OPA627AU-OPA627-FREE-SHIPPING-/120763718688?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1e141c20#ht_582wt_1124

Do I need browndog to install into existing socket?


----------



## VTHokie83

Jazzwave,
  
 The "tiny PCBs" that you see the OpAmps double sided mounted to, ARE know as Brown Dogs. They have the OpAmps already mounted on them, and they are direct plug in replacements for the components in the socket. We see them most commonly for Burr Brown OPA627s or OPA637s, though the also exist for Sonic Imagery and some others. Before purchasing them, I would verify that with the seller.....that they would be a drop in replacement for your OpAmp.
  
 I did the same with the OPA637 "brown dogs" that I purchased, though as I mentioned I am some months off on trying them out. Does that help you out?


----------



## jazzwave

vthokie83 said:


> Jazzwave,
> 
> 
> 
> ...



 


VTHokie83,
Thanks for clarification, I decided to buy from Maverick 15$ more expensive than eBay but hasbeen tested on D1.
I will update the thread when OPA627 installed.

It looks ,re-opamps will be fun like tube rolling or re-caps.
Wish list: Try OPA637, AD825 if replacement doesn't need modification.

~ron~


----------



## VTHokie83

Jazzwave,
  
 That is part of my love of the Maverick D1/D2 lineup, eazy eazy access to replace to the tubes for rolling.....and to the OpAmps for upgrading. And some of the "Brown Dog" manufacturers are very good resources for other possible OpAmp updrades.....and they'd be only too happy to build some for you (D2 needs 3 "Brown Dogs" while the D1 needs 2)
  
 I found a great link regarding some OpAmp upgrades, I will find it and share it here.....it is very good from a technical standpoint, but has some good material to peruse.


----------



## jazzwave

Guys,
 I'm back for update..
 I received OPA627s from Maverick, tonite i have chance to replace my old chip to OPA627s.
 The replacement process quite easy,  just plug and play but make sure the position/orientation of chip,Ryan attached this information in the package.
  
 How about the sound? OPA627s deliver more open and detail sound.Soundstage slightly wider than old chip.
 Bass and midrange almost similiar with old chip,treble extended and not sharp...
 Tested with Grado SR60i/Shure SE215(cans/iem) and SET 300B tube amp (line out)
  
 Conclusion, OPA627s improve original D1 sound..no doubt,recommended.
 Is this opamp match with your need? it's depend what your preference, if you need more bass, this opamp didn't add bass weight but more controlled.
 For me who love jazz music,OPA627s fullfill my need.
  
 But this is audiophile world, ....the rolling adventure will be continued..


----------



## VTHokie83

Jazzwave,
  
 Thank you for your update, it is nice to see a thread such as this that is kept "alive" with updated information. Your post inspired me to put aside the "tube rolling" in my Latino VTA ST-120, and go back to my Maverick D2 DAC for a moment. I know this is a D1 thread, but the tube and OpAmp rolling information is somewhat universal.
  
 I reversed my OpAmps back to the original Burr Brown OPA 2604s, and ran through a sampling of my music.....obviously the notes are with prior knowledge of the OPA627s performance. Listening was done only with Sennheiser HD558 headphones through a Schiit Magni headphone amp.
  
 Sound stage - Slightly compressed and narrow, sound was more "pinpoint" and not open
 Sound delivery - Treble more "shrill" and fatiguing, definitely brighter. Midrange delivery slightly more closed and less tight. Bass no noticed changed.
 Sound impact - Less impact across the entire spectrum, partly due to the fact that I ran at a slightly lower volume since the treble was more fatiguing....punch was not there the same as with the OPA627s.
 Detail - Very noticeable difference here, vocals and higher end more "closed" and less crisp.....OPA627s much more detailed
 Overall impression - To my ear and with my gear the OPA627s are the only way to go, not even a question over the original OpAmps


----------



## jazzwave

VTHokie83,
  
 Sure, I will share my D1 upgrade story to forum,
 Anyone has good result with other opamp ie:  OP637 or AD825 in D1/D2, please let me know. 
  
 ~ron~


----------



## VTHokie83

Jazzwave I have the OPA637 brown dogs, but I have not tried them yet.....hope to in the next couple of weeks, and I'll report back then.


----------



## WiZLV

Maverick Audio D1 from box is better than Yulong U100?


----------



## VTHokie83

WiZLV,
  
 First off let me say I was a little surprised in your choice to compare the U100 to the D1 (Plus preferably), as the feature sets are not similar. Some of the posts you put on other threads may be better direct apples to apples comparison. Before posting I also must say that I have never listened to a U100, much less listened directly to the D1 Plus head to head in an audio comparison. As such I will limit my comments only to what I know.
  
 Yulong U100 - USB or 3.5mm line-in input only, straight DAC output only....one analog L/R output......no tube pre-out, soldered OpAmps....no socketed chips for swapping, powered headphone output rated at 100 mW at 300 Ohms.
  
 Maverick Audio TubeMagic D1 Plus - 5 inputs......USB, Coax Digital, Optical Digital, Coax analog, or line-in, 2 analog L/R pre-outs.....traditional DAC conversion to analog and digital to tube analog output, socketed OpAmps for easy swapping, socketed tube for tube rolling, up sampling, and headphone output rated at 500 mW at 300Ohms (1000 mW at 32 Ohms and 300 mW at 600 Ohms).
  
 If your needs are for the most flexible unit, then it is very clear that the D1 is the best unit based on feature sets. If your need is only for USB input to drive headphones or to output to an amplifier or powered speakers, then the answer could only be based on a head-to-head shoot out.


----------



## WiZLV

VTHokie83,
 i'm need only for USB input to drive headphones
 I'm interested only in sound quality in headphones from usb
  
 What you can say about D1 in comparison to Creative ZxR, Titanium HD, Asus STX, Aune T1, Aune X1, Audiogd 11\15?


----------



## VTHokie83

WiZLV,
  
 I only have experience with the AudioGD 15, though I did not have the Maverick when I had my short time with it (since it was borrowed). I do remember that I liked it just fine, but was not "wowed" enough to push me to make a purchase. Some of that was that I was ultimately swayed to buy a more full featured and flexible unit such as the Maverick Audio D1. I remember the AudioGD to be musical and very good sounding, but a little slow in the bass area (will noticeable roll off), there was less punch than I was looking for. Mids and highs were also less detailed and sounded a bit "colored", not at all crisp and detailed which I prefer. Soundstage was slightly compressed and narrow. Plus components are soldered and component swapping would require de-soldering and re-soldering on the mother board.
  
 A couple of weeks after the AudioGD I was able to test an Audinst HUD MX-1, and that unit impressed me more. Most of the short comings of the AudioGD were non existent, and if I had chosen a USB style DAC/Amp it may have been the unit for me.....high quality in choice of DAC and OpAmp components, though like other small units the components were soldered.....thus component swapping would be rather difficult also.


----------



## mjdupuis

jazzwave said:


> Guys,
> I checked in ebay, found dual OP627 for $7.5/pcs, compare to pict in maverick site..its look similiar.
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Be aware that opa627's are fairly expensive opamps, and are most likely fake if purchased for $7.50.
  
 Here's a Head-Fi link that goes into great detail: http://www.head-fi.org/t/316937/fake-opa627s-in-the-wild
  
 The ones straight from Maverick would be a great option.


----------



## jazzwave

I bought directly from Maverick, plug and play without any problem


----------



## jazzwave

b-dawk20 said:


> Oh, I forgot to say it here, I finally got an HD650 to pair with my old D1!!!


 
  
 Please share your impression of duet HD650 and old D1
  
 My HD600 otw....I wish my old D1  OPA627 upgraded can drive this 300 ohm headphone.
  
  
  
 ~ron~


----------



## Mechnutt

Has any one checked to see if the BP627's from Maverick are authentic?  I was thinking about buying  2 pair to place in my son's D-1 and my cheap Bellari VP-129 phono preamp.  Typically the 0627's go for about $35 each for a single op amp.  Maverick is selling them for $30pr with a brown dog.
  
 Thanks,
  
 Larry


----------



## jazzwave

mechnutt said:


> Has any one checked to see if the BP627's from Maverick are authentic?  I was thinking about buying  2 pair to place in my son's D-1 and my cheap Bellari VP-129 phono preamp.  Typically the 0627's go for about $35 each for a single op amp.  Maverick is selling them for $30pr with a brown dog.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Larry


 

 Larry,
 As suggested by this thread , I ordered OPA627 from Maverick, now running in D1 smoothly...the sound much better than D1 stock.
 I found lot of cheaper OPA627 in ebay ($7/pieces), but I don;t know this is original or fake
  
 Recomended to buy from Maverick directly, they don't want take risk by selling the fake one for their DAC unit.
  
 ~ronni~


----------



## Mechnutt

Thanks Ronni.  I am going to order a pair and see how they sound in the D-1.  Currently we are running it with the LM opamps and an upgraded tube.  It is being used as a preamp and dac for my old Parasound A21 amp that I gave to my son.  It is great as a DAC and an ok preamp.  The usb section sucks so I am going to get a Dragonfly DAC-1 for my son's computer music.


----------



## jazzwave

mechnutt said:


> Thanks Ronni.  I am going to order a pair and see how they sound in the D-1.  Currently we are running it with the LM opamps and an upgraded tube.  It is being used as a preamp and dac for my old Parasound A21 amp that I gave to my son.  It is great as a DAC and an ok preamp.  The usb section sucks so I am going to get a Dragonfly DAC-1 for my son's computer music.


 
  
 I'm using D1 to feed my SET 300B tube amp, and working well. Sometimes pair to my HD600 (300 Ohm cans) and D1 amp can drive this cans (volume set not more than 10 o'clock).
 Beside upgraded tube and opamp , I also change power and USB cable..not the expensive but able to  improve the sound.
  
 Regarding small DAC for your son, you can consider Audioengine D3 as well.
  
 Have fun with Opamp rolling
  
 ~ronni~


----------



## Mechnutt

I am hoping the 0627's add more detail and dynamics without losing the air, transparency and wide sound stage of the LM4562 op amps.  0627's certainly have a unique sonic character- leaning on the slightly warmer side of neutral with good dynamics.  I am really interested in seeing how they sound in my Bellari phono preamp (I will be upgrading to a Pro-Ject tube box IIse in about 6 months though).  
  
 By the way, if any one is interested, I recently rolled these Sparko Op amps in my Van Alstine DAC replacing the BB 0627's and the results were spectacular.  There is much more detail and resolution with improved dynamics.  It took about 30 hours for them to break in.  At that point the sound dramatically changed to a warmer sound with deeper bass.  They breathed new life into my aging DAC.  I was going to buy a Wyred 4 Sound DSDse DAC2 until I replaced the Op amps.  The Wyred 4 sound is still on my radar and I will probably buy one in about a year.
  
 http://sparkoslabs.com/discrete-op-amps/
  
 I just found a review of the D2 with the sparko op amps, it may be something to consider.  Although I have yet to find a review comparing the sparko's to the 0627's.  The only draw back to them are that they are a little expensive.
  
 http://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/sparkos_ss3602_e.html
  
  
 I just ordered a Dragonfly DAC V1.0 from amazon for $99.  Are these things reliable?  It will be hooked up to the MavericK D-1 and a Parasound A21 amp as well as a pair of Seinnheiser  439 or 449's  (any recommendations as to which of these are better for music, I want 32ohm so that they can be used for a portable music player as well as for a home stereo.  In the past I had bought a pair of 448's for my daughter and they sounded good for the price and they were comfortable).
  
Thanks,
  
Larry


----------



## jazzwave

mechnutt said:


> I am hoping the 0627's add more detail and dynamics without losing the air, transparency and wide sound stage of the LM4562 op amps.  0627's certainly have a unique sonic character- leaning on the slightly warmer side of neutral with good dynamics.  I am really interested in seeing how they sound in my Bellari phono preamp (I will be upgrading to a Pro-Ject tube box IIse in about 6 months though).
> 
> 
> 
> ...



 


Yes, the 0627's add more detail and dynamics and slightly more wider soundstage than the D1 stock.
Interesting, regarding sparkoslabs opamp. I never heard this product.


Dragonfly? yes this reliable and good DAC.
I bought cheaper , HifimeDIY asynch DAC $57 has similiar DAC chip inside (eSabre)
http://hifimediy.com/DACs/ready-made-dacs/U2-DAC


~ronni~


----------



## Mechnutt

jazzwave said:


> mechnutt said:
> 
> 
> > I am hoping the 0627's add more detail and dynamics without losing the air, transparency and wide sound stage of the LM4562 op amps.  0627's certainly have a unique sonic character- leaning on the slightly warmer side of neutral with good dynamics.  I am really interested in seeing how they sound in my Bellari phono preamp (I will be upgrading to a Pro-Ject tube box IIse in about 6 months though).
> ...


 
  
  
 How do the 0627's compare to the LM4562's?   The LM's were a huge upgrade to the stock OA's.  The tube upgrade also made a huge difference.  I bought the D-1 with the optional tube upgrade but I rolled a couple  of other tubes and finally settled on one that has a warmer yet detailed and dynamic sound.  I forget which tube we are using in it off hand.
  
 I also have a Grant Fidelity Pre/DAC-11 and it is a major step up in quality compared to the D-1, especially the USB section.  I am using an NOS 1960 non A frame Telefunken in the GF and it sounds great with a Class D Audio CDA 254 amp and a pair of Magnepan MMG's.
  
 My main system is a BAT Vk51se tube preamp, Pass Labs X250 amp, Van Alstine hybrid tube/ss DAC and Magnepan 1.6's speakers.  TT is a vintage Thorens TD-145.
  
 By the way.  Those Sparko op amps have detail galore.  Way more than the BB 0627's.  I want to try a pair of Burson OA's next just for fun.
  
 And thanks for the tip about the diy DAC.  I am going to get one for my daughter as well as one for her Nexus 7 that is compatible with android.
  
 Regards,
  
 Larry


----------



## sizzlincok

I bought 2 of these. 

Anyone speculate they may be fake? It sounds better over the stock opamps...

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/171386346993?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## jazzwave

sizzlincok said:


> I bought 2 of these.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



 


If sound better than the stock, congratulation you bought good product and cheap..


----------



## sizzlincok

But then I'll never know how OPA627 truely sound. LOL


----------



## jazzwave

I bought new DAC that has twice price than my old Maverick D1 (OPA627,tube upgraded).......for my stereo set (D1+300B tube amp+speaker),The source is SqueezeBox Touch.
  
 I did comparation after new DAC 50 reach hours burn in. I don't believe Maverick deliver better sound (my taste), darker, well defined instrument separation, new DAC has slighly wider soundstage.
  
 But most important to me listening my 3 years old Maverick combine with Tungsol 6SUGTY Black glass on my amp more enjoyable.
 I always smile when listening music through this set and said to myself...my old friend still deliver good job..
  
 Again, the keyword are: system synergi, taste, and budget...
  
 ~ronni~


----------



## sizzlincok

So I just upgraded to the D1 PLUS. 

I opened it up and found 3 OPAMPS. 2x LF353N, and 1x OPA2604.

The LF353N is for the headphone out and the both tube/regular output. 

The OPA2604, seems to be for the input/dac, however if I take the opamp out, the audio still runs, but at a slightly reduced volume.

Shouldn't the audio stop if there's no opamp for the input/dac?


----------



## VTHokie83

sizzlincok (I won't ask about your post name)
  
 I have a suspicion, but I will not share it as I don't want to give you false information. I would contact Ryan at Maverick Audio, to get specific technical data.....he has always been very open and helpful when I have reached out to him, and he has always gotten back to me quickly. You can reach Ryan at:
  
 Email: info@mav-audio.com
Web request: http://mav-audio.com/support/index.php?_m=tickets&_a=submit
  
 Let us know what you find out


----------



## sizzlincok

I prefer not to as to be honest kind of lazy to send him a message.

I just stuck my OPA627 in the output and input opamp slots and called it a day.


----------



## jazzwave

Please confirm,
Change two LF353N Opamp to OPA627 will be impact to SQ of Headphone and RCA.
Change tube only impact to RCA pre-output only not headphone ouput.

I ask because not clear what function of this OPAMP and Tube in Maverick D1.
Currently I'm using D1 as headphone amp only (use other DAC as input).

DELL->"Other DAC"->Line input D1 -> Headphone output->HD-600


Appriciate if somebody ( Ryan perhaps) can brief me.

regards
~ron~


----------



## superbart

Hello. I'm not sure if it is an answer but this is what Ryan said:
The headphone output on the D1 Plus will not go through the tube. You will hear "solid state" sound if connecting the headphones to the D1.

If you use the tube pre-out on the back of the D1 to your amplifier, you will get "tube flavored" sound ( as well as the enhancement brought from the D/A conversion in the D1). .


----------



## jazzwave

superbart said:


> Hello. I'm not sure if it is an answer but this is what Ryan said:
> 
> The headphone output on the D1 Plus will not go through the tube. You will hear "solid state" sound if connecting the headphones to the D1.
> 
> ...



 


Noted, I enjoyed tubey sound from RCA pre-out (feed to amp+speaker).

So Opamp replacement will improve Headphone output, right?

~ron~


----------



## jazzwave

I don't have outdoor activity during winter.. so let's open D1 casing, tube rolling time...!
The existing tube is GE JAN 5670W , what upgraded tube you sugest to replace JAN 5670W ?

Is WE2C51 better? I love warm, melow tube tone but need detail as well..

~ron~


----------



## sizzlincok

All the questions are answered on the FAQ and INFO page.

http://www.head-fi.org/t/470639/maverick-audio-tubemagic-d1-dac-amp-condensed-faq-and-info-thread



jazzwave said:


> I don't have outdoor activity during winter.. so let's open D1 casing, tube rolling time...!
> 
> The existing tube is GE JAN 5670W , what upgraded tube you sugest to replace JAN 5670W ?
> 
> ...


----------



## VTHokie83

Jazzwave,
  
 Sizzlincock is absolutely correct, that thread has a ton of information available on tube and opamp rolling. My only issue is that there are nearly 2600 posts to sift through, and some of the replies are in regards to older equipment which may not now be rolling off of the assembly line now. The standard upgrade tube that Maverick is supplying in the D1 and D2 is a 1970s GE black plate "O" getter. It is an excellent all around tube with no major flaws, it does everything well across the board and most people will not feel the need to upgrade this tube.
  
 I am not that person, and I have tried many tubes in my D2.....most of which I tried and later sold back on eBay, the ones I've kept are:
  
 (First place tie) Made in New Jersey Bendix 2C51 (1960s) or 6385 (1950s) - Both tubes involved me in the music and delivered terrific bass, and class leading all around performance in my system and great sound stage. The 1950s 6385 is clearly the best of the two (and would be my "cost no object" tube), but at $150 to $400 PER TUBE cost is an object for me....I loved it and sold it. It delivers what other tubes in this class do not, deep/defined/detailed bass. The 2C51 has most of the terrific traits of the 6385, but loses the magic of the bass and seems to have a slight "hole" in the midrange as well. The 6385 is the best tube available in this line, but is insanely expensive. The 2C51 is a hair below or equivalent to the Sylvania, and at $40 to $80 per tube is in the reach of many of us.
  
 (First place tie) Sylvania Gold Series GB5670 or 5670WA (both early 1960s) - Better or equal to the GE in most respects, more punchy and defined bass without becoming "muddy", highs are very detailed but not annoying.....not able to pinpoint why, but got me much more involved in the music. Cost $25 to $40 per tube, and a bargain at that price.
  
 (First place tie) Western Electric WE396A 1950s vinatage - I tried two of these tubes, one from the early 1950s and one from the late 1950s. Both were incredible when they were "on" even pushing the Bendix 6385, but are "finicky" in that they do not sound the same on all source material. I am not sure if that is a flaw in the musicality, or if it is more related to the fact that they can be noisy and are not "black" in the background. NOTE: I still own the tubes and will spend more time in the future trying to figure that issue out.
  
 Hope that gives some help from another review.


----------



## jazzwave

vthokie83 said:


> Jazzwave,
> 
> 
> 
> ...



 



VTHokie83,
Thanks for your kindness by provide us good information.
I saw in eBay WE 2C51/396A cost $16/pc, I'm not sure this tube better than GE JAN 5670W .
But based on your information, for budget under $50 prefer Sylvania Gold Series GB5670 or 5670WA (both early 1960s) 

~ron~


----------



## sizzlincok

I agree that there is too much information to go through. However, a simple Google search for "best 5670/2c51/6n3p tube" or something along those lines will give results.
 That's how I found information fast and efficiently because there are other people out there who has asked the same questions over and over. 
  
 The MHDT Paradisea DAC uses the 5670/2c51/6n3p tube, so if you want more information look into that DAC as a cross reference for tubes.
  
 http://dhost.info/mhdtlab/tube.htm
  
 http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=5796460&postcount=5
  
1st class,


> WE396A (D getter, JW Military version)
> WE2C51 (D getter, JW Military version)
> Bendix 6385 (expensive)
> Tesla 6CC42 (D getter, rare but sometimes will show up in the market)
> JJ 6386 (expensive, new production)


 2nd class,
  


> WE396A/2C51 (O getter)
> Tesla 6CC42 (O getter, rare but sometimes will show up in the market)
> Tung-sol 2C51 (they invent this tube, 1950s, D getter)
> Raytheon CK5670 (1950s, D getter)
> ...


  
3rd class, (after 1960s)


> GE 5670
> RCA 5670
> Tung-sol 5670
> Sylvania 2C51
> ...


   
4th class,


> Russian and Chinese 6N3P, -E, -EB, -EV


----------



## jazzwave

sizzlinko,
Thanks fior the summary .I will visit eBay to find 2C51.


----------



## VTHokie83

Thank you for the list, and the clarification on the WE396A....you are absolutely correct, the "D" getter is the preferred tube over the "O" getter; which I believe to be later manufacture. The Sylvania too is critical to pay attention to, they must be the Gold Series and early 1960s date code....the later tubes are not in the same class.


----------



## VTHokie83

One more thought.....as sizzlincok posted. There is also a wealth of information available on audiokarma.org, and following a few posters such as sKiZo can yield a wealth of information. Headfi tends to be headphone focused, and Audiokarma tends to be all encompassing.


----------



## jazzwave

vthokie83 said:


> Thank you for the list, and the clarification on the WE396A....you are absolutely correct, the "D" getter is the preferred tube over the "O" getter; which I believe to be later manufacture. The Sylvania too is critical to pay attention to, they must be the Gold Series and early 1960s date code....the later tubes are not in the same class.



 


Just click buy a WE396A....in eB*y for $15/pc, not mentioned D or O getter.
From sizzlincok post, both models are 1 and 2 class...I hope my D1 will singing better with this tube..

~ron~


----------



## romen

In need of help concerning the internals my D1 + . Near the outputs are a pair of yellow MTK cylindrical caps @ 1u8k 250Vdc . These do not seem to be stock,  I have not seen any D1+ pics with these caps. Am I wrong ? If this is someone else's mod , should they be replaced ? With what ? and what benefit would be gotten from it? Thx


----------



## guppysb

Hey Guys, 
  
 I have 2x LT1364 in the D1 (not plus edition). I have just ordered the 396a tube, hoping for better results than the stock tube. Do you guys recommend getting the SUN HDAMs for both the U5 and U6, or just a single one? I'll also need to do some plexiglass mods in order to fit the HDAMs.
  
 My setup is: Behringer Audio 3030A studio monitors on the tube out, and BeyerDynamic DT990 Pro 250 for the headphone out.


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## Rhamnetin

I didn't see this in the FAQ thread but does the D1 use only 2 channel opamps?  I'll be getting one soon and looking to swap them out at some point.  The LT1364 seems really cheap here:
  
 http://www.linear.com/purchase/LT1364/LT1364CN8%23PBF
  
 Do most people use the LT1364 in the DAC stage, amp stage, or both?  I'm wondering what the best combination is if I prefer a big sound stage, detailed sound, and neutrality (though I'm not opposed to some warmth).  I was thinking LT1364 in the DAC stage and LM4562HA/NOPB in the amp stage.  The opamp rolling section of the FAQ thread doesn't make it really clear though.


----------



## guppysb

I use 2x LT1364 in both stages. Although, I will be switching both of them to SUN HDAM from Audio-gd or the burson discrete amps, since they are both non-IC and apparently make a world of difference.


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## Rhamnetin

guppysb said:


> I use 2x LT1364 in both stages. Although, I will be switching both of them to SUN HDAM from Audio-gd or the burson discrete amps, since they are both non-IC and apparently make a world of difference.


 
  
 Interesting, thanks for the response.  The Audio-GD SUN HDAM and Burson discrete opamps are a bit more than I want to spend at the moment, I think I'll pick up two LT1364 dual channel opamps and a LM4562HA, and do some trial and error.


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## guppysb

Sounds good. Also, it turns out that Audio-GD no longer make the HDAMs. There is another company that competes with Burson audio's discrete op amps, they're called Sparkos Labs and the product is the SS3602. Also, you could try the Muses 02 Op-Amp, it's non discrete but apparently it's one of the best dual op-amps ever made. I believe it costs roughly $37 each op-amp.


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## jazzwave

Tube rolled,
Just put WE396A in my old D1 replaced the JAN 5670W. Not big improve, just add more detail slightly. 
I would say, JAN 5670W is good and cheap solution

I will try other tube,if my wallet allow me..

~ron~


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## guppysb

How much did the WE396A cost you? I can't find a NOS for less than $50 per tube.


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## jazzwave

guppysb said:


> How much did the WE396A cost you? I can't find a NOS for less than $50 per tube.



 


Mine is used not NOS, bought from *bay $15/piece


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## Apoq

Hey guys, I'm in a bit of info-overload right now.

 I have the Maverick Audio Tubemagic D1+ with the upgraded opamps (627) and GE5670W tube. 
 I'm looking into further upgrading the opamp(s), because I'm seeking extra detail, a wider soundstage, and better imaging.
  
 I'm still running my HD650s out of the headphone amp on the D1, but I'll be building myself a bottlehead crack in the near future, and my stereo system comes out of the other set of RCAs, so I'm considering doing both opamps. (I'll still use this jack for my lower impedance cans).  
  
  
 I had completely set my mind on getting some Audio-gd Sun HDAMs... only to find that they have discontinued production of their opamps.

 So, now I'm left with a slew of more expensive options that I can't find any reviews for using with the D1.

 The Dexa opamps (79504 and 73728)  
 The NJR MUSES02
 The Sparkos labs SS3602
 The Burson Audio dual SS opamp


 TNT audio has some reviews for the Sparkos and Burson using the D2, but I admittedly need to sit down and directly compare components between the two to figure out if the components are similar. 

 I'm primarily fishing for experience-based use of these opamps. I'm all for trying out ALL the things, because I'm a scientist... and it's in my blood. However, I'm not made of money (hence being a scientist). At ~$70 per OPA for most of these, the experiment would get pretty expensive pretty fast.
  
  
 Thanks in advance guys!
 - Jc


----------



## guppysb

I was in the same position you were in Apoq. I bought some the two Burson op amps, and they would have a loud hum when placed in the U5 position. I was not impressed by the Burson op amps. If I replaced one of them with another SS op amp mentioned below, the hum would go away, but still close to the definition of a SS op amp.
  
 This is what I originally did, bought a GE 2c51 tube, the bass response seemed to extend a bit. Then I bought 2x LT1364 op amps, both were good, although not as refined as I'd liked them to be. Then I bought 2x LME49710ha and soldered them onto the brown dog adapters to convert them into DIP-8. They were OK at best, but I still preferred the LT1364 since the LME49710HA seemed to have a V-shape EQ curve. Then I bought 2x lme49860na. I tried putting both the lme49860na in the U5 and U6, but the wide sound stage seemed to disappear.
  
 My perfect combo so far is: 1x lme49860na and 1x LT1364. The amp is currently with a friend at the moment, so I can't tell you which goes in the U5 or U6. You'll have to try and experiment. Personally, I'd say away from the LME49710ha, even though they get high praise. The LT1464 is roughly $7 each from digikey, with the lme49860na being roughly $3 each. I think they're cheap enough for you buy 2 of each and it'll be roughly $24 with shipping.
  
 http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/integrated-circuits-ics/linear-amplifiers-instrumentation-op-amps-buffer-amps/2556125?k=lme49860na
  
 http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LT1364CN8%23PBF/LT1364CN8%23PBF-ND/891887


----------



## Apoq

guppysb said:


> I was in the same position you were in Apoq. I bought some the two Burson op amps, and they would have a loud hum when placed in the U5 position. I was not impressed by the Burson op amps. If I replaced one of them with another SS op amp mentioned below, the hum would go away, but still close to the definition of a SS op amp.
> 
> This is what I originally did, bought a GE 2c51 tube, the bass response seemed to extend a bit. Then I bought 2x LT1364 op amps, both were good, although not as refined as I'd liked them to be. Then I bought 2x LME49710ha and soldered them onto the brown dog adapters to convert them into DIP-8. They were OK at best, but I still preferred the LT1364 since the LME49710HA seemed to have a V-shape EQ curve. Then I bought 2x lme49860na. I tried putting both the lme49860na in the U5 and U6, but the wide sound stage seemed to disappear.
> 
> ...


 
 Thank you for the quality response! 
 I had some doubt about the Bursons. TNT has a review: http://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/burson_supreme_e.html  and they apparently had some problems with the D2, in feeding the power hungry Bursons in stock configuration.
  
 I've become more interested in the MUSES02, after reading some of peoples' thoughts in other opamp threads. Again, with not finding anyone that's tried it in this DAC, I'm wary. I'm not educated enough in these matters to be able to troubleshoot the circuitry if it isn't working right. That being said, I'm certainly trying to learn.


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## elwappo99

apoq said:


> Hey guys, I'm in a bit of info-overload right now.
> 
> I have the Maverick Audio Tubemagic D1+ with the upgraded opamps (627) and GE5670W tube.
> I'm looking into further upgrading the opamp(s), because I'm seeking extra detail, a wider soundstage, and better imaging.
> ...


 
  
 I think in some sense you're fighting for a lost cause on the Maverick's headamp. I've owned it twice and both times, I thought the amplifier was pretty subpar. Any extra performance you'll get out of it will be minimal in the grand scheme. I would suggest saving your money and wait until you build the crack.


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## Apoq

elwappo99 said:


> I think in some sense you're fighting for a lost cause on the Maverick's headamp. I've owned it twice and both times, I thought the amplifier was pretty subpar. Any extra performance you'll get out of it will be minimal in the grand scheme. I would suggest saving your money and wait until you build the crack.


 
 I do realize that, and I don't want to put a lot of money into it, but I'm primarily using it as a DAC.
 I suppose I could look into getting a different DAC, but I'd thought that getting a different opamp might be a cheaper way to maximize what I've currently got. 
  
 It's entirely possible that I've actually got it sounding nearly as great as it'll get with OPA627s that are in there already, and I don't realize that because I haven't heard other opamps in the circuit yet. I had just remembered people saying the audio-gd Sun HDAM made a world of difference in the sound of the dac, and only cost ~$40. I'd figured, for a budget like that, it was worth doing.


----------



## Shroker

I run the Maverick D1 as a dac with WE 396A and a SUN HDAM from gd-audio and its superb.
 But probably at this point if you're builindg the crack most likely no point.

 As a headphone amp it was alright but as a DAC it is superb. Just how I see it.

 I have quite enjoyed what I've put into it and what I have gotten from it.

 I would highly recommend the SUN HDAM from gd-audio (the dual channel version) Although it'l lset you back about $60 bucks total.


----------



## Apoq

shroker said:


> I run the Maverick D1 as a dac with WE 396A and a SUN HDAM from gd-audio and its superb.
> But probably at this point if you're builindg the crack most likely no point.
> 
> As a headphone amp it was alright but as a DAC it is superb. Just how I see it.
> ...


 

 This was what I wanted, but that's the entire point... Gd-Audio discontinued their opamps, so I can't buy one from them.
 I'd love to get an HD-Sun, and I put up a WTB post on the forums here, but I have absolutely no idea where else I'd get one. :/


----------



## guppysb

Also...I'll say this much, my Creative X-Fi Titanium HD has better analog sound output than the Maverick Audio Tubemagic D1. I tried op amp rolling on the Titanum HD and found the stock stuff to be superb.
  
 Also, I've recently built the Pete Millett Jonokuchi, which is almost equivalent to Bottlehead SEX 2.1, which is basically an upgraded Crack with output transformers. My X-Fi Titanum HD (RCA out) > Jonokuchi input > Sennheiser HD 650 is amazing. Using the same audio files with the Maverick Audio Tubemagic D1 with the HD 650 wasn't nearly as good.
  
 I recommend you skip the Tubemagic D1 and just build the Crack or something equivalent.


----------



## Apoq

I already own the tubemagic D1.
 I must say, I heard an improvement on almost every level when I switched from my x-fi fatal1ty to routing through the D1.
  
 I think I'm going to take one for the team and order a Muses02 and try it out.


----------



## BGRoberts

apoq said:


> I already own the tubemagic D1.
> I must say, I heard an improvement on almost every level when I switched from my x-fi fatal1ty to routing through the D1.
> 
> I think I'm going to take one for the team and order a Muses02 and try it out.


 
  
 Any further updates with the Muse?


----------



## Apoq

Thanks for reminding me to post.

 Well, about the muses02 so far...
 It's definitely different than the OPA627.

 If the OPA 627 were sitting in the drummer's seat in the back of a band, the Muses02 is sitting front, center stage. There's much more depth, and a little more width to the soundstage. The imaging is better, as well.
 I managed to commandeer a set of audio GD-sun OPAs v2.0, but they're single OPAs instead of dual OPAs.... so I'm awaiting (VERY anxiously) some DIP8 extension kits so that I can rig them up into the DAC slot of the D1.
 I actually popped just one of them in and listened to the right channel by itself... I was impressed. I obviously can't comment on anything without having the experience in stereo, but I'll surely comment when I get it setup.

 Current opinion (based on listening to progressive metal, millenium punk, and LOTS of electronica/lounge/acid jazz):
 If you have a Tubemagic D1 with the very stock OPAs, don't buy their dual boarded OPA627, buy the Muses02.
 But, I believe my opinion may soon change towards the AudioGd-sun. It's not available from the vendor, but they're out there if you search for them. I'll post more updates when I get my DIP8 extension kits!

 Happy listening dudes/gals!


----------



## BGRoberts

Thanks for that update! 
 Been away from a lot of my gear the last 18 mo the,  due to some health issues. 
 Getting some things going again,  and hoping to get my stock D1 a little more milage. 
 Your reports/suggestions help!


----------



## pwoznic

I just got my D1 Plus with upgrades and I am loving it so far! I bought it mainly for all the different inputs and my main reason was to output to my new Airmotiv 5s for my computer and xbox. I am new to the DAC world though.


----------



## goodyfresh

How would the D1 Plus do with something like IEM's or low-impedance sensitive headphones?  Like, say, my Trinity Delta IEM's with 16ohm impedance and 110dB sensitivity?  Would there be background hiss/noise?  Or would I have to set the volume-pot so low as to create a channel imbalance?  ANd if I'm using the headphone-out, will it even be using the tube?


----------



## Rhamnetin

goodyfresh said:


> How would the D1 Plus do with something like IEM's or low-impedance sensitive headphones?  Like, say, my Trinity Delta IEM's with 16ohm impedance and 110dB sensitivity?  Would there be background hiss/noise?  Or would I have to set the volume-pot so low as to create a channel imbalance?  ANd if I'm using the headphone-out, will it even be using the tube?


 
  
 I'd expect noise with IEMs.  And the tube is only used for the preamp out.


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## goodyfresh

rhamnetin said:


> I'd expect noise with IEMs.  And the tube is only used for the preamp out.


 

 Thanks for the quick reply in this and the other thread!


----------



## jazzwave

Anybody has  tried Burson V5 Opamp for D1?
 Please share with us....
  
 ~ron~


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## Yamshik

A bit confused when upgrade to OPA627 at Maverick TubeMagic D1.
 Please tell me the initial (factory) chips location at panels [U4], [U5], [U6] and how the chip should be placed after upgrade at these panels.
 Thanks in advance, 
 Vladimir


----------



## VTHokie83

Yamshik,
  
 I no longer have the D1 (having upgraded to a D2 DAC with a Schitt Magni headphone amplifier....so I can't follow your question. However for technical questions I have found Ryan at Maverick tech support to be very helpful, and he responds pretty quickly. The best way to reach him is at info@mav-audio.com ....please let us know how you get along.


----------



## Yamshik

*VTHokie83,* a lot of thanks)


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## jazzwave

yamshik said:


> A bit confused when upgrade to OPA627 at Maverick TubeMagic D1.
> Please tell me the initial (factory) chips location at panels [U4], [U5], [U6] and how the chip should be placed after upgrade at these panels.
> Thanks in advance,
> Vladimir


 
 Please check ;
http://www.head-fi.org/t/446764/maverick-audio-dac-amp/2565#post_10551367
  
 Dual OPA627 Brown dog

  
  
 Chips location (pointed by white arrow), replaced with OPA627...Plug and play (Beware of chip orientation)
  

  
  
 Good luck..
  
 ~ron~


----------



## lior777

Hello Is there any differences between dac quality D1 plus & D2?


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## atx2014

my D1 plus has exactly the same problems. popping popping popping. pretty loud and i worry about my speakers ...


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## atx2014

mechnutt said:


> Hi Autosol, I did not resolve the issue, but Ryan offered to take it back and test it.  If they found nothing wrong he said he would refund my money.  I bought the thing for my son and he decided to keep it and live with it.  I taked with a couple of HiFi electrical designers and engineers and they both said it could be poor shielding, poor filtering, poor grounding or just bad design.  I can maybe understand the digital clicking when changing songs but not when I push any button on any piece of equipment.  And if you have large speakers or have the volume turned up loud the pops are very irritating.  We tried the DAC in my main system with my Magnepan 1.6 speakers which are almost 6 feet tall and the pops were way too loud to live with.  For $200 it is disappointing.  If the DAC cost $30 I could understand it.  The DAC and Preamp both have very good sound in my main system but right now I would not recommend buying one.
> 
> By the way, all inputs make the same annoying pops!  I guess I learned my lesson here.


 

 my D1 plus (with upgrades) have exactly the same problem. the popping sound when changing sources is not just annoying but scary it may damage my speakers. have to turn the volume down each time. also it produces noises when i change TV channels (toslink). unberable. I also tried D2. D2 doesn't have this problem. disappointed.


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## jazzwave

Source of popping sound can be from any issue parts.
 I changed the opamp,    annoying pops sound gone


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## streetfighter

I just bought the D1 Tubemagic with upgraded tube and op amps. I don't plan to use the tube out, only the solid state. I plan to leave this unit on 24/7. Should I just take out the tube? Or can I leave it in there while its powered on all the time?


----------



## jazzwave

streetfighter said:


> I just bought the D1 Tubemagic with upgraded tube and op amps. I don't plan to use the tube out, only the solid state. I plan to leave this unit on 24/7. Should I just take out the tube? Or can I leave it in there while its powered on all the time?


 
  
 Keep the tube inside, no issue


----------



## jazzwave

I just received new opamp ; Burson Dual V5i opamp.
 I'm happy with Burson Single V5 version on my Gustrad amp, hopefully the dual will improve my Maverick D1 as well.
  
 Currently my D1 use dual OPA627 (brown dog) replaced the manufacture opamp.
  
 Replacing OPA627 with Burson V5i very easy, plug and play.
  
 Here  pictures of Burson V5i in D1  
  

  
 Very positive first impression,....I share with you about sound later
  
_to be continued....._


----------



## jazzwave

After 1 week burn in, here my impression...
  
*Source:*
*Asus Laptop , Windows 10, Foobar2000*
*DAC: ESS9018 connected to Maverick D1 through analog input RCA with custom silver cable (made by amplifiersurgery.com)*
*Headphone: Sennheiser HD600*
  
*File: FLAC*
*Selected songs  for this test:*

 What a day different make, Ingram Washington
 Don’t know why Norah Jones
 All I am, Heatwave
 101 Eastbound, Fourplay
 Diana Krall (Album Live in Paris)
  
 This review base on listening  (subjective) ,comparison with OPA627 , nothing changed in other parts  
 Burson V5i vs OPA627
  
*Sound stage:*
 Compare to OPA627, V5i give slightly wider sound stage (not too much), this one make me happy due to HD600 don't  have wide sound stage.
Imaging is spot on and while the soundstage isn't huge it still allows the listener to get a sense of space in the recording.
Just right in my opinion and very pleasant
  
*Bass* – Compare to OPA627 , V5i give  good extension and more weight on my HD600 . Which is this very good improvement for people who want more bass in HD600. 
I enjoyed bass in song 101 Eastbound by Fourplay, depth and quantity perfect for my taste.  Fyi, I’m not basshead
  
*Mids* - Everything in the mid sounds very linear to my ears. I don't find the mid to be lush or clinical. 
The vocal not forwarded, which is good for me who don’t like forward mid or vocal . 
Vocal in What a day different make by Ingram Washington, weight and timbre clearly exposed (in good way)
  
*Treble* - The treble reproduced is very clear, present, and smooth. V5i delivered not much different when compare to OPA627.
  
Overall a very well balanced sound with regard to frequency range with a slight smoothness to the sound.  
  
 When I see V5i in first time, I little bit worry with small casing regarding heat issue
 I did some test in 1 week by run my D1 almost 4-5 hours/ day, not heat issue found in V51 opamp . 
  
 I have couple headamps, the modified D1 is one of my favorite 
 Serviced me for almost 5 years, freedom to modify easily; opamp and tube make this amp always make me smile.
 Good to know that opamp  rolling has big impact to the sound, beside tube and caps.
  
 The summary, Burson V5i raised the D1 to next level. This will give you another fun and pleasant listening your music collection.
 Pro    : From SQ result, absolutely I recommend you to try in D1 or other amp.
 Cons : The price little bit high for opamp
  
 ~ron~


----------



## Svenny-S

Hi,

I just bought a d1, and have a few questions about it.

First off, can i use ALL the outputs at the same time?
I want to use the headphone out for my hd700s, the tube out for my reciever and the normal out for my subs. Will my subs turn off when i plug in headphones?

And can i still buy new opamps with brown dogs straight from maverick?


----------



## Rhamnetin

svenny-s said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just bought a d1, and have a few questions about it.
> 
> ...


 
  
 If memory serves you can actually use all outputs at the same time.  I can definitely confirm that headphones and one of the rear outputs (not sure if tube preamp out or line out) can run at the same time.
  
 Not sure if they sell opamps directly, I picked mine up from warehouse distributors.


----------



## Svenny-S

rhamnetin said:


> If memory serves you can actually use all outputs at the same time.  I can definitely confirm that headphones and one of the rear outputs (not sure if tube preamp out or line out) can run at the same time.
> 
> Not sure if they sell opamps directly, I picked mine up from warehouse distributors.




Nice, i'd really like to use the subwoofers with the headphones. 

Thanks!


----------



## Svenny-S

HI,
 so i got the unit a couple of weeks back, and noticed that it was actually a D1+, which made the buy even more worth it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.
  
 So, i've been listening to it for a couple of weeks now, and actually think the headphone amp is kind of meh.. hopefully this is solveable with a quick opamp switch
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




(found out that you can still get them from the page)).
 I still really love it though. it fits in perfectly in my setup, and it's dac output really sounds good. 
  
 i am currently running it over USB. How much better is the sound over toslink?
  
 ~Svein~


----------



## jazzwave

svenny-s said:


> Hi,
> 
> And can i still buy new opamps with brown dogs straight from maverick?


 
  
 I bought OPA627 Brown dogs from Maverick, you can also buy from other seller
  
  
 ~ron~


----------



## billqs

I just ordered a D1+ to use as a DAC exclusively used from ebay. I was wondering if we were sure the 627 opamp upgrades from Maverick Audio were legit. It's a price that's a good bit less than Mouser carries them for, but I would buy it if they are legit. Probably will also upgrade the tube soon.


----------



## sizzlincok

I didn't touch my D1 for 1 year and upon recently powering it back up, the USB does not work. It just says "USB device has malfunctioned" in Windows.
Analog inputs work as expected, it's analog.

I have another D1 and it worked when I first bought it, but then the USB input stopped outputting sound. 
In Windows, it'll show that it's connected, but there is no sound coming out of the D1+ suddendly and everything I tried does not work.
Analog inputs work perfect though.

Ryan is no help. There is no support for this, and the website support ticket system is completely broken.

Any ideas?


----------



## elwappo99

sizzlincok said:


> I didn't touch my D1 for 1 year and upon recently powering it back up, the USB does not work. It just says "USB device has malfunctioned" in Windows.
> Analog inputs work as expected, it's analog.
> 
> I have another D1 and it worked when I first bought it, but then the USB input stopped outputting sound.
> ...




Ouch bummer. That's a strange one. I've had this a few times and I think the only fix I found was to unplug the unit (and USB), turn it off, and then restart everything. Do the other inputs work? Worst case you could run an optical or coax cable from your computer to it (if you have a desktop).


----------



## ReAlien

Just bought me a D2 Maverick with upgraded opamps and tube. Great discount at the original manufacturer site — 229 USD. I love the sounds it makes. Can anyone recommend a good place to look for WE/GE tubes for it?


----------

