# How do you make the hot solder stick to the darn wires/connectors?



## t10

Hahaha, don't laugh, everyone had to start somewhere right... ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Anyways, back in highschool, I remember we had white wax, and some yellowish translucent stuff too that some people used; for purposes unknown. 

 Guess I should have paid more attention lol. 
 But seriously, what do you guys use to make the hot solder to stick to stuff more easily, mine just bubbles up on the tip of the iron, and doesnt want to get off, just runs around in a circle around the darn tip.


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## Wimmig

Your tip is dirty. Buy a re-tin solution to keep your iron tip clean. Goot makes a good one, it's only a couple $$$.


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## tess

Hi, 

 you use the iron to heat things up, not apply solder with.

 Have a look here,
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm
 and here.
 If you dont want to view all of them look at clip 5
http://radiojove.gsfc.nasa.gov/elab/soldering.htm


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## t10

Thank you! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 What is the wax that yellow stuff for though that I mentionned?


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## skyskraper

probably flux, it helps the solder flow/melt etc on the surface its applied on. not an absolute essential but certainly one of those things that is handy to have around.


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## DaKi][er

Flux is one of THE most important things in soldering, it cleans the surface of any oxidisation and lets the solder actually stick and makes the solder 'wet' like water and it just flows on and without it the solder becomes tacky and brittle (this appears also when the flux is all burnt out) and without it you wont be getting anywhere fast unless your surfaces are very clean 

 Most will just rely on the flux in the core of the solder, but I got a pot of the stuff I use all the time to add on extra and it does a 10 times better job that without it and I’ve preached this time and time again on here but no one really listens to me, meh their loss 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 *subliminal message* Buy extra flux *subliminal message*


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## jefemeister

also, heat the wire first and then apply solder to the area with the tip heating both the solder and the wire at the same time. The easiest way is to push the end of the solder through the gap between the tip of the iron and the wire.


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## mono

By having a clean, tinned tip as others suggested, it will conduct heat better to the *parts* you're soldering, then the solder will melt and flow on them easier.

 If your parts are very smooth surfaced, plated or oxidized, DaKiller's suggestion for using extra flux is very helpful. If you need to get any soldering done in the interim, it could help to use fine sandpaper to rough up an area and remove some oxidation. Even rubbing with a dry paper towel might help a little but for tough surfaces there's no beating a highly active flux (but if it's TOO active it will need cleaned off later, not always viable with parts that can't get *wet* from water or alcohol).

 As for wax additives, it depends on what properties you want to add to the wax. It might be a release (from a mold) agent, a hardener, UV inhibitor (keeps colors vibrant), opacity additive, or some other property regular wax doesn't have... could even be a multi-purpose blend additive.


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## Ruffy

First dont hold the iron to a componant for too long. You are heating it up. And Can Damage something.


  Code:


```
[left]Touch the Componant Lead on one side with the iron > | SIron Lead Heat it up then Touch the other side of the Lead with Solder Lead > | ~ SIron Solder[/left]
```

Now heres what I generally do since this can take awhile. I Drag the solder to the irons tip. Touch. Once the solder starts flowing I drag the solder back to the other side of the lead. This Effectively Surrounds the entire lead with Hot solder. Remove iron. Pull Solder up and You get a nice looking mountain joint/


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## kramer5150

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DaKi][er* 
_Flux is one of THE most important things in soldering, it cleans the surface of any oxidisation and lets the solder actually stick and makes the solder 'wet' like water and it just flows on and without it the solder becomes tacky and brittle (this appears also when the flux is all burnt out) and without it you wont be getting anywhere fast unless your surfaces are very clean 

 Most will just rely on the flux in the core of the solder, but I got a pot of the stuff I use all the time to add on extra and it does a 10 times better job that without it and I’ve preached this time and time again on here but no one really listens to me, meh their loss 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 *subliminal message* Buy extra flux *subliminal message*_

 

x2...

 The other thing that flux does is it helps dissipate heat in the form of steam as the flux vaporizes. This helps prevent heat from conducting up the wires or through to the PCB traces.

 I use aerosol can, plastics-safe electronics part cleeaner and spray off any extra flux that splatters.

 Garrett


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## ericj

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mono* 
_Even rubbing with a dry paper towel might help a little but for tough surfaces there's no beating a highly active flux (but if it's TOO active it will need cleaned off later, not always viable with parts that can't get *wet* from water or alcohol)._

 


 That's why i keep recommending Kester's RMA flux pen to people. 

 It's an outstanding flux, but since it's only Rosin, Mildly Activated,washing off the excess is optional. 

 It's a big felt tip pen. It's hard to apply more than just enough. You can't spill it. It'll ooze a little, so always store it cap end up. 

 RMA paste flux is probably real good too, but i can't find it in quantities less than a gallon. 

 They also have a no-clean organic flux pen, but the RMA flux has the advantage of being sticky. You'll know what I mean when you start working with surface mount parts. They even sell a high-tack version in gallon quantities, for people who want it *especially sticky.


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## luckydevil

I've always found that cleaning both surfaces that are to be soldered with some rubbing alcohol makes things go a lot smoother.


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