# Klipsch Promedia Mod?



## Samgotit

Hello,

 I have a set of old Klipsch Promedia 4.1's. Was thinking I would like to replace the sub woofer drivers. I like the satellites but the sub sucks. I don't really want to change the enclosure or amp. Might there be a better woofer I can just pop in there? I belive the sub is dual sidefiring 6.5" woofers. I would prefer SQ from a new driver over SPL. 

 Manual says satellites impedance is 4 ohms. Sub too? Are both drivers active? Sub amp is 160x1 in specs. How many ohms? How are the subs wired? Anyone Know?

 Do you think I could use car audio drivers for the woofers?

 Thanks,
 Sam


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## Mr.Sneis

You could get another set and combine them to make 8.2!


 Really though, I used to have 4.1's and I regretted selling them so bad I bought the 2.1 set less than a month later.


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## Scrith

Here's an amazing upgrade to try:

 Replace your front speakers with Epos ELS-3 (I think these are around $295 at musicdirect.com).

 I did this with my Klipsch 5.1 system and was blown away by how great small speakers can sound. You will probably find that the subwoofer is a lot less important after this upgrade.


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## Illah

There are other tricks you can try with the sub. Subs are *very* sensitive to room placement. For example, my 2.1 sub is in a corner and under my desk. With a wall on three sides, bottom, left, and right, and the being further enclosed under my desk, this creates a bass chamber so even with the sub control at minimum it's got tons of bass. As the sound reflects off the three walls and my desk it reinforces the sound from the sub and thus 'amplifies' the bass. Were I to move the sub to the middle of the room I bet I'd lose 12dB or more!

 Try moving your sub around as much as you can (might need some extension cables) and see how things go. Even a great sub can turn into a 'one note' sub when placed in a really resonant corner like mine is, but I mostly use headphones so I don't care too much 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 On a side note, get yourself some 3.5mm mono mini's and solder some 14awg wire in there to upgrade your speaker cables. The stock with my 2.1 was something laughable like 20awg, and it looked like bunk wire at that.

 --Illah


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## DrewWinters

Because the sub enclosure is not sealed (it's a 6th order bandpass according to the published info - but it looks like a normal ported enclosure) it will be very sensitive to the driver you use. Since T/S parameters are not available for the drivers currently being used in the sub, your chances of picking an appropriate replacement is slim to none. Your chances for finding a replacement that is both superior and appropriate are smaller yet.

 On the other hand, you could build a new enclosure using the the old amp. Keep in mind though, the crossover for the sub is very high - around 160Hz I think, so you may have to use a woofer driver rather than a subwoofer driver.


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## no1likesme

go out and buy a 12" car audio sub, box and a 1200 watt d class mono amp
 run a 110 to 12 volt converter to the amp and then run that to the sub
 your bass problems are over


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## MD1032

I have the PM4.1's myself, and trust me, the problems are in the enclosure.

 So here's what you do:

 1) cornerload. Find an available corner decently far away from your listening position, stick the port end into it, and try things out. All of a sudden you'll have mega bass response.

 2) Grab some eggcrate foam, cut it to fit in the bottom of the sub (which means small cutouts for the woofers) and sitck it in there. Boominess should be greatly decreased, although the sub itself sounds muted at first (you will need to boost the volume slightly) thanks to the removal of that boominess. This wore off for me in about 5 mintues, after which I realized that it only sounded better.











 But really, the only reason it ended there for me is because I'm lazy. In reality, I should have covered the whole inside with the stuff, like the front two walls and the ceiling. This would probably get rid of the boominess completely, and then the only problem would be the hole caused by the 3" drivers in the satts not doing a good enough job in the upper bass.


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## Mr.Sneis

Forgot to mention, I replaced the weak stock cables for some beefier home-brew cables complete with mono mini plug ends. I think I'm going to try that foam inside the sub mod!


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## Samgotit

Thanks for all the tips.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *no1likesme* 
_go out and buy a 12" car audio sub, box and a 1200 watt d class mono amp
 run a 110 to 12 volt converter to the amp and then run that to the sub
 your bass problems are over 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I so happens that I have a IDQ 12" sub in a box and amp from my old car. Is this really an option? Can you post a link to a converter. I have a sub out on my Chaintech av-710. Could I use a mini>>>>to rca to hook it all up? How could I control the sub volume?

 Interesting option!

 Thanks all,
 Sam


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