# Does power cable make any audible difference?



## GoSUV

Just a n00b question. After convincing myself that different USB cables does make a significant and audible difference, now I'm wondering different, and the so called "audiophile" power cables, make any difference to the sound especially in headphone rigs, not speaker systems with their power amps etc.?
   
  Specifically, my headphone amp is the Meier Corda JAZZ.


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## liamstrain

There is no objective evidence that has ever been provided to support that a power cable can or will make any audible difference.


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## palchiu

Yes, power cord will make different for sure.
   
  Nice PCs and bring wider soundstage and improved sonic, start at $300(list price) or pass entry level.
   
  Problem is maybe these PCs will expansive than your amp, find reviews and get used one.


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## El_Doug

Quote: 





liamstrain said:


> There is no objective evidence that has ever been provided to support that a power cable can or will make any audible difference.


 
   
  ^THIS!!!  Do not drink the audiophool kool-aid


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## GoSUV

What I get out of this is, perhaps my system is not expensive enough to benefit from such "upgrades", and that the so called "entry level audiophile" power cords are a waste of money. To experiment, I swapped between plugging my amp into your average $20 power bar full of other computer equipment (worst scenario as crosstalk and other nasty interference and EMI are part of the circuit path) and straight into the wall socket. Well I couldn't hear any difference at all. I guess power source is not the bottleneck of my system then.
   
  That's not to say power source is not an important component of the audio chain. If I have a $5,000 system and have extra cash burning in the pocket, I wouldn't mind giving those $500 power cords a try to see what improvements I may get.
   
  Thanks for your feedback.


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## El_Doug

I have a $12,000 system, and I won't spend more than $5 on a power cable.  To each his own.


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## zenpunk

I borrowed a couple a rather expensive Nordost cords from my friend who is convinced they make a difference in his system but I wasn't able to detect any difference compared to my stock power cords, thankfully for my wallet


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## GoSUV

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> I have a $12,000 system, and I won't spend more than $5 on a power cable.  To each his own.


 
   
  Thanks for your reply. I am trying to humbly gather and categorize people's experience. As you know on most of these forums, you get people who claim that such and such power cords make their systems sound more noise-free, the soundstage wider, the treble smoother and the bass hits harder etc. Was your experience based on trying those so called "audiophile" power cords and didn't find any audible difference, or have you simply not heard any power cords costing more than a few bucks? I am sorry I am not trying to be offensive. Like you I have never believed in expensive power cords. I know most of our audio equipment's internal circuitry doesn't even run directly on AC power anyway, as they need DC power and the conversion (the rectifier, or transformer) either takes place inside the unit or have outboard power supplies. The quality of power received by the circuitry is already taken care of by the designers themselves during the AC to DC conversion. If AC power cords were such important component in the chain, why do some $2000 power amps only include a $5 power cord?
   
  I'd like to hear your experience and input, if you don't mind.


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## skamp

Some people hear a difference, some don't. Whether it's golden ears, high end gear or expectation bias that makes the difference, is for you to decide. You won't learn much by "gathering experiences". You'd be better off trying to figure out the science behind it.


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## proton007

Power supply maybe, but the cable, no difference.


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## sonq

You can read all you want but nothing beats trying it out yourself.

The sonic differences between powercords can be very obvious - expensive does not mean better though, so audition before you buy. 

Try those with return policy or buy used cables to minimize loses if you don't like what you hear. There are a few DIY recipes using Belden cables on the net that you can try out without hurting your wallet.


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## palchiu

Hi GoSUV,
   
  Take your Jazz with HPs and cables to visit audio shop near you, you may compare better PCs there.


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## 188479

I found that upgrading the stock cord of my LD MKIII with a not too expensive Iron Lung Jellyfish PC made a huge difference to me.  Call me a believer in PC upgrades!


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## DaBomb77766

If any cheap power cable is good enough for something as advanced and sensitive as a computer, I don't see how it could possibly affect the sound of any audio system.  Especially considering all of the crappy cable it has to go through to get to the socket - a lot of houses even use aluminum wiring.


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## TheAttorney

GoSUV, if you can hear differences between USB cables, then I'd expect you to also hear differences between power cables.
   
  On the other hand, you didn't notice a difference between your $20 block and direct to the wall. That suggests you won't notice the difference between power cables.
   
  Confusing eh? This hobby is like that.
   
  I think they can make a worthwhile difference, but the most important thing is that you can try before you buy. And, when you're trying them, if you can't tell the difference immediately, then just send them back and stop thinking about power cables. Just don't use that $20 block when doing comparisons. And if you have to agonize over seemingly minute differences, then stop trying and send them back.
   
  PS. I've never tried any Nordost cable because the alleged Nordost house sound signature doesn't appeal to me. But from others comments, Nordost appear to have the widest range of love/hate/no difference responses of any cable company. There must be something that just clicks in certain circumstances, but I can't be bothered to find out what that is.


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## Chris J

​Are we talking about power cables with 6 feet of cable and a male and female connectors at their respective ends or are we talking about power cables with some type of built in power conditioning/noise filtering/surge suppression/shielding?

A good power bar with good surge suppression is always a good idea to protect your equipment.


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## eugenius

Quote: 





el_doug said:


> I have a $12,000 system, and I won't spend more than $5 on a power cable.  To each his own.


 
   
  I tested a Lavry like you have in your signature with a Wireworld Electra power cord that has a "filter" in it. I heard something, I'm 99% sure. No other power cord had such an effect on the Lavry (tested two more, the cheapest chinese crap there is and a thick one). The rest of the system was a CEC HD53N with HD800/K1000.


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## 9pintube

This question has been around the block and back..  Some people swear they hear a big difference and many say they hear nothing. Me, I've been very happy with using Top Gun & Custom Power Cord Company power cords. They all are coming from power conditioners, not your twenty buck power strips..... but "Lambda" tube regulated power supplies. These make a difference! Now I must say IMO, because maybe Joe Blow wouldn't hear any change in sound (that sound, is also the sound of what you don't hear) when dealing with power cords and even with speaker and IC cables....... Most importantly as many have mentioned buy used!  I bought mine used from a good friend who has the resources to buy the latest and greatest cables....So have at it, and yes I have some bucks in my systems....... But just for laughs, I have placeboed my own ass, many of times.


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## DaveBSC

Unshielded power cables can act as antennas for RFI and EMI. I've seen it happen with my monitors which were buzzing along to the GSM signals from my cellphone. Swapping in heavily shielded cords shut them right up.
   
  Beyond that, there are simply to many variables to be able to say what a power cord may or may not do. How noisy is the environment? Is the circuit dedicated and if not, what else is on it? What kind of power supply is in the piece of equipment being used? Some cords may improve, worsen, or simply shift the sound some of the time. The only way to know is to plug em in and see what happens.


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## proton007

Most cables are shielded, and the ones that come with your device have been tested to perform under all sorts of RFI and EMI.
  Beyond that, AC travels at a fixed frequency and amplitude. There's no *dirty* AC signal.
  The only problem that can be thought of is the wire guage is not good enough to carry the required current, hence heating issues.


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## Mad Max

Get a nice power conditioner instead.


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## DaveBSC

Quote: 





mad max said:


> Get a nice power conditioner instead.


 
   

 I'm a big fan of balanced transformers which use a proven method of common mode rejection to deal with AC noise which *does* exist. They are also generally more cost effective than $5K+ capacitor based models. Conditioners and cords tend to go together, though.


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## proton007

Most commonly due to power supply, and/or the number of appliances that exist on the network.
  I guess what you said is correct, but best to put your stuff on a non-shared line.


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## Snag1e

> Does power cable make any audible difference?


 
  No.


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## Chris J

Quote: 





proton007 said:


> Most cables are shielded, and the ones that come with your device have been tested to perform under all sorts of RFI and EMI.
> *Your amp is Probably Not tested for EMI or RFI and probably not provided with a shielded AC cable. *
> 
> Beyond that, AC travels at a fixed frequency and amplitude. There's no *dirty* AC signal.
> ...


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## fatcat28037

Please oh please, lets not go down this road for the umteenth time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Take your power cable budget and buy a good surge suppressor to protect your gear. If there's anything left over spend it on music.


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## Chris J

Quote: 





fatcat28037 said:


> Please oh please, lets not go down this road for the umteenth time.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Most Head Fi posts are going down the same road for the umteenth time.
   
  A good power bar should also have some EMI/RFI filtering.
  A lot of designers don't bother designing this type of filtering into the amp power supplies.


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## proton007

Quote: 





fatcat28037 said:


> Please oh please, lets not go down this road for the umteenth time.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Agree. Although I'll recommend to switch the order.


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## Currawong

I felt that the amps and DACs I've owned which have simpler power supplies in them were more affected by power components, including the cables, but regardless of that...
  Quote: 





mad max said:


> Get a nice power conditioner instead.


 
   
  ...this is my advice.


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## sonq

Quote: 





currawong said:


> I felt that the amps and DACs I've owned which have simpler power supplies in them were more affected by power components, including the cables, but regardless of that...
> 
> ...this is my advice.


 
  I find that some power conditioners has a tendency to restrict dynamics on the amp, so audition is mandatory. Just like power cords and audio cables, some can improve certain area on your sound system but degrade sound quality in another area.


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## Currawong

Quote: 





sonq said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Agreed. My Phoenix already has a considerable power supply and doesn't seem to benefit from filtering. However, it doesn't seem to be affected, much, if at all, by different power cables. On the other hand, I had a Northstar M192 which I thought sounded dull. Just before I sold it, I tried it with one of the first "audiophile" power cables I'd bought, and the sound was much improved, so I felt at the time. The better DAC I replaced it with, however, was a far bigger improvement.


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## DaveBSC

Quote: 





sonq said:


> I find that some power conditioners has a tendency to restrict dynamics on the amp, so audition is mandatory. Just like power cords and audio cables, some can improve certain area on your sound system but degrade sound quality in another area.


 
   
  Most series type conditioners will do that. They are dirt cheap to make and adequately effective at dealing with line noise, the downside is that they are incapable of dealing with the type of huge instantaneous current that large amplifiers demand.
   

   
  Big 15 or 20 Amp transformers on the other hand will not choke when feeding amplifiers.
   

   
  You get what you pay for, unless you buy a Shunyata Hydra in which case you get a nice box that's mostly filled with air.


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## liamstrain

Holy crap. Look at the toroid in that beast. 0.o


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## Chris J

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Agreed. My Phoenix already has a considerable power supply and doesn't seem to benefit from filtering. However, it doesn't seem to be affected, much, if at all, by different power cables. On the other hand, I had a Northstar M192 which I thought sounded dull. Just before I sold it, I tried it with one of the first "audiophile" power cables I'd bought, and the sound was much improved, so I felt at the time. The better DAC I replaced it with, however, was a far bigger improvement.


 
   
  The problem with this is what is a "considerable power supply"?
  Just because it has a large transformer and large power supply capacitors in it doesn't mean that it does a good job of filtering out EMI and RFI. etc.
  No offence meant, I'm just saying big caps and big transformers do not necessarily mean high quality & good powerline noise immunity.


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## DaveBSC

Quote: 





chris j said:


> I'm just saying big caps and big transformers do not necessarily mean high quality & good powerline noise immunity.


 
   
  Indeed not. That has more to do with current demand, not necessarily noise immunity. Newer switch mode supplies are tiny and yet are excellent at rejecting noise and voltage variance issues.


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## goodvibes

Don't care for switch modes in general. Need lots of filtering beyond DC smoothing.


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## Chris J

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Indeed not. That has more to do with current demand, not necessarily noise immunity. Newer switch mode supplies are tiny and yet are excellent at rejecting noise and voltage variance issues.


 
   
  True, but Switch Mode Power Supplies can also create a lot of noise.


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## sonq

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Agreed. My Phoenix already has a considerable power supply and doesn't seem to benefit from filtering. However, it doesn't seem to be affected, much, if at all, by different power cables. On the other hand, I had a Northstar M192 which I thought sounded dull. Just before I sold it, I tried it with one of the first "audiophile" power cables I'd bought, and the sound was much improved, so I felt at the time. The better DAC I replaced it with, however, was a far bigger improvement.


 
   
  I tend to be more willing to spend on amp/dac/speaker or phones than cables and accessories, but I do make exceptions when the improvement is really drastic.
   
  Anyway, conditioner doesn't really work that well on my system beyond the DAC, so I may try this instead http://www.acoustic-revive.com/english/rtp/rtp_01.html


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## sonq

Quote: 





davebsc said:


> Big 15 or 20 Amp transformers on the other hand will not choke when feeding amplifiers.
> 
> 
> 
> You get what you pay for, unless you buy a Shunyata Hydra in which case you get a nice box that's mostly filled with air.


 
   
   
  Looks like their smaller $500 Hydra 2 is worth an audition.
  http://www.stereotimes.com/acc020805.shtml


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## DaveBSC

Quote: 





sonq said:


> Looks like their smaller $500 Hydra 2 is worth an audition.
> http://www.stereotimes.com/acc020805.shtml


 
   
  I wasn't joking - Hydras are literally mostly air inside. Pretty case, about $5 worth of noise suppression caps, and a couple of outlets. $5 is being generous actually, Shunyata probably buys them in bulk quantity for next to nothing. The little black square cap across the outlet next to the buss bar, that's it. That's the whole thing. That's what you're paying $500+ for. You can buy those little caps retail for a few dollars and make your own Hydra. If there's a bigger joke in the AC line conditioner industry, I don't know what it is.
   


   
  If you're looking for something around the $500 level, check out the Majik Buss and the BPT CPC. Don't waste your money on Shunyata.


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## DaBomb77766

More stuff doesn't always mean better though.  It's how the stuff that's there is used.  Often if they arrange things to look pretty it compromises the performance.  But I agree that $5 of materials and say a $50 enclosure shouldn't be sold for $500, that is a bit much.


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## DaveBSC

Quote: 





dabomb77766 said:


> More stuff doesn't always mean better though.  It's how the stuff that's there is used.  Often if they arrange things to look pretty it compromises the performance.  But I agree that $5 of materials and say a $50 enclosure shouldn't be sold for $500, that is a bit much.


 
   
  Agreed. I wasn't saying that those little caps don't do anything, just that the Hydras are comically overpriced. The model I pictured was the $995 Hydra 4. It consists of a breaker, a MOV (the same type used in $20 Walmart power strips) two outlets connected by buss bars, and two noise suppression caps. I'd be surprised if the whole thing including the case cost Shunyata more than $75. They are a business and they need to make money, but 1300% markup is a little excessive.
   
  If I'm buying a serious conditioner I want something that uses serious components and is not just a cynical cash grab. Here's what I consider to be the best. Obviously all of these products make a profit for the companies that make them, but they aren't something you could throw together yourself in an afternoon for $50.


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## Griploc

This is an old thread but I would like to put my own input into this since I do have extensive listening test experience.

I am an audio engineer and music producer of over 13 years.
I am currently using all Stefan Audioart Endorphin PC, and endorphin power adapter, as well as all Endorphin Alchem XLR ribbon interconnects for all audio inputs and outputs. I am also using an endorphin USB cable that connects my apogee symphony IO to my IMac.
I will start out with saying this, if you decide to try power chord upgrades I suggest that you purchase as many as needed for your whole component setup and seriously consider vibration control for each component.(Mapleshade Audio is where I purchase from)

When I have my complete setup powered with stock PC everything sounds good. 

My setup consists of an apogee symphony io, Neve 1073N, tube tech cl1b, Mackie hr 824 MKII pair, korg triton extreme.

When I have my setup powered with SAA PC the soundstage is bigger, bass is tighter and cleaner, mid range is focused and airy, high frequency range is extended and smoother, a silky texture. 
As for audio cables it is the same transformation.


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## JohnSantana

What about the reduction in EMI ?
Does expensive cable can reduce the noise and hiss-ing as well ?


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## proton007

johnsantana said:


> What about the reduction in EMI ?
> Does expensive cable can reduce the noise and hiss-ing as well ?




I'm not sure if the power of the EMI disturbance is large enough to affect the main power signal. Usually EMI interferes with data signals because they're amplified during output.


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## JohnSantana

proton007 said:


> I'm not sure if the power of the EMI disturbance is large enough to affect the main power signal. Usually EMI interferes with data signals because they're amplified during output.




Ah ok, so in this case getting expensive Nordost cable is just for "aesthetic" looking only I guess 

I was looking for something to upgrade to improve Sound Quality, so far I haven't upgrade the power cable, apart from putting all of the power adaptor plugs into Belkin Surge Protector to ensure the electric signal is clean.


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## Griploc

johnsantana said:


> Ah ok, so in this case getting expensive Nordost cable is just for "aesthetic" looking only I guess
> 
> I was looking for something to upgrade to improve Sound Quality, so far I haven't upgrade the power cable, apart from putting all of the power adaptor plugs into Belkin Surge Protector to ensure the electric signal is clean.


Perhaps contact James at http://www.stefanaudioart.com website. He knows a lot about power cables.


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## chicken beer

I like the discussion here. Well I suggest get a nice power cable, and a nice power cable means it's reasonably thick, and don't go south of 20 dollars. (headphones and home-use speakers don't need that much power, and power cables themselves provide power, not signal. Good signal-related cables are more important)


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## chicken beer

Maybe raise the bar to 50 bucks. Just noticed tri-12AWG power cable usually cost 10 bucks per feet...


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## NorCal

I'd suggest having a dedicated line from the panel to your system, (vs. an expensive power cord, garbage in = garbage out).

Our house is wired with 14 gauge in the walls, but I had a dedicated 12 gauge run, on its own breaker added for the home theater, which I consider to be more cost effective, (but the access was easy for my case). 

For my bedroom/headphone setup, it would be even cheaper, as I'm only 20 feet, (~ 6 meters from the main panel).  Probably won't do this, but would definitely do it before "upgrading" a power cable.

I mean what's a 9 gauge power cable going to do, plugged into a 14 gauge wall socket?


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## chicken beer

NorCal said:


> I'd suggest having a dedicated line from the panel to your system, (vs. an expensive power cord, garbage in = garbage out).
> 
> Our house is wired with 14 gauge in the walls, but I had a dedicated 12 gauge run, on its own breaker added for the home theater, which I consider to be more cost effective, (but the access was easy for my case).
> 
> ...



I see!! Totally makes sense! Thank you~~


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## Speedskater

NorCal said:


> I mean what's a 9 gauge power cable going to do, plugged into a 14 gauge wall socket?


Almost nothing!  It's all about total end-to-end resistance, with one end being that big power company transformer down the street and the other end is your hi-fi component.

Now electricians sometimes need to use oversized conductors for:
a] Very long runs.
b] High ambient temperatures.
c] High conduit fill.

Nothing wrong with oversizing the conductors on a new install, but it's not cost or effort justified on an un-needed replacement.


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## skwoodwiva

Speedskater said:


> Almost nothing!  It's all about total end-to-end resistance, with one end being that big power company transformer down the street and the other end is your hi-fi component.
> 
> Now electricians sometimes need to use oversized conductors for:
> a] Very long runs.
> ...


True that, but on DC side, Caps Caps Caps!!
Did I say Caps?
I had a drawer full of 63k uF 30 of them for each amp , one amp per speaker.
The house dimmed when I powered the TA\n90 es's 2 of them.
What glorious punch it had after that mod.


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## chicken beer

skwoodwiva said:


> True that, but on DC side, Caps Caps Caps!!
> Did I say Caps?
> I had a drawer full of 63k uF 30 of them for each amp , one amp per speaker.
> The house dimmed when I powered the TA\n90 es's 2 of them.
> What glorious punch it had after that mod.



The way you say caps is like the way I say the F word, nice!


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## skwoodwiva

DeOxit
Is fabulous for getting the juice from old outlets & plugs


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## chicken beer

skwoodwiva said:


> DeOxit
> Is fabulous for getting the juice from old outlets & plugs



Actually, coke is even better for that purpose and it's cheap.


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## Speedskater

skwoodwiva said:


> True that, but on DC side, Caps Caps Caps!!
> Did I say Caps?
> I had a drawer full of 63k uF 30 of them for each amp , one amp per speaker.
> The house dimmed when I powered the TA\n90 es's 2 of them.
> What glorious punch it had after that mod.


Yep, I have had amps like that.  Had to replace the power switch twice.   And they can be real hard on the bridge rectifier.  A soft or slow start circuit would have been nice.

Having big DC supply caps can be good, but we quickly get into diminishing returns.


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## chicken beer

Speedskater said:


> Yep, I have had amps like that.  Had to replace the power switch twice.   And they can be real hard on the bridge rectifier.  A soft or slow start circuit would have been nice.
> 
> Having big DC supply caps can be good, but we quickly get into diminishing returns.



'Diminishing returns'... what popped out of my mind was 'diminishing repurchases'. I think it should be the user's liability if he blew up the cable by using it above the advertised specs.


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## skwoodwiva

chicken beer said:


> 'Diminishing returns'... what popped out of my mind was 'diminishing repurchases'. I think it should be the user's liability if he blew up the cable by using it above the advertised specs.


These TA/n s were SOTA in '94. Relay delay, protection galore.
It was @amn extream yet I also biased the input potentiometer as make them run class A also. Doublind the heatsinks as well. Wild! I was 35 had the time. A former EE major.
TA/n90es showcase
https://redirect.viglink.com/?forma...tronics/sony/power-amplifier/ta-n90es-1-sony/


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## Speedskater

chicken beer said:


> 'Diminishing returns'... what popped out of my mind was 'diminishing repurchases'. I think it should be the user's liability if he blew up the cable by using it above the advertised specs.


While you can blow-up the fuse, the rectifier switch and the power switch, you can't blow-up a reasonable amp power cord.

What I meant by 'diminishing returns' was:  Some increase of the power supply capacitors can be good, but after doubling their size there is nothing more to be gained.


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## stevedlu (Apr 5, 2018)

In my experiance Sources and Solid State HP Amps should use 14 guage cord. The higher current draw from tube HP Amps will benefit from 12 gauge. If your gauge # is too high it will result in distortion and if its too low the lower frequency response/slam will suffer.


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## Whitigir

Certainly does affect the sound quality but not to a degree of interconnect and headphones cables.  Those 2 are ways more important than people think


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## chicken beer

Whitigir said:


> Certainly does affect the sound quality but not to a degree of interconnect and headphones cables.  Those 2 are ways more important than people think



The most important thing is to have good ears that are easy to enjoy the music and not criticizing about all the microderails on how the sound represents. This is much more important to anything else in the hifi chain because nothing ain’t perfect, definitely need to appreciate, instead of bitch on the sounds.


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## Whitigir (Apr 5, 2018)

chicken beer said:


> The most important thing is to have good ears that are easy to enjoy the music and not criticizing about all the microderails on how the sound represents. This is much more important to anything else in the hifi chain because nothing ain’t perfect, definitely need to appreciate, instead of bitch on the sounds.



That is true. But when you are so spoiled like me, you will be bothered by the imperfections here and there.  Mainly the sibilant or bass distortions, and in my experiences, trebles sibilants are caused by trebles distortions too.  I blame my fully optimized KG T2 and SR009 system....it is sad (all cables are upgraded)


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## stevedlu

Call me crazy but I tried an "audiophile" power outlet, Audioquest Edison 15, and it made a much bigger improvement than the various DIY and aftermarket power cables I have tried.


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## skwoodwiva

stevedlu said:


> Call me crazy but I tried an "audiophile" power outlet, Audioquest Edison 15, and it made a much bigger improvement than the various DIY and aftermarket power cables I have tried.


Get some DeOxit. For every contact point & the preservative, the gold version.


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## stevedlu

skwoodwiva said:


> Get some DeOxit. For every contact point & the preservative, the gold version.



Good advice. The Edison is silver plated and will surely oxidize fast.


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## chicken beer

Whitigir said:


> That is true. But when you are so spoiled like me, you will be bothered by the imperfections here and there.  Mainly the sibilant or bass distortions, and in my experiences, trebles sibilants are caused by trebles distortions too.  I blame my fully optimized KG T2 and SR009 system....it is sad (all cables are upgraded)


Ha-ha just kidding!


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## Whitigir

chicken beer said:


> Ha-ha just kidding!



I thought you were, but just want to make sure  .  If the plague of this hobby stop pulling my feet’s, I would be happy lol


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## chicken beer

Whitigir said:


> I thought you were, but just want to make sure  .  If the plague of this hobby stop pulling my feet’s, I would be happy lol



Me too! Hope to get perfect sound at perfect price!


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## Whitigir

chicken beer said:


> Me too! Hope to get perfect sound at perfect price!


And a perfect wife...but nothing is ever perfect and we have to keep our ass constantly moving in search of it.., if I could replace wife or sidegrade/upgrade as my gears...***


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## chicken beer

Whitigir said:


> And a perfect wife...but nothing is ever perfect and we have to keep our ass constantly moving in search of it.., if I could replace wife or sidegrade/upgrade as my gears...***



Yes. Perfect wives are all other people's wives!


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## Whitigir

chicken beer said:


> Yes. Perfect wives are all other people's wives!


Roflmao, man..thanks for the laugh, I almost spit out my water from the noses.  Totally agreed


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## skwoodwiva

stevedlu said:


> Good advice. The Edison is silver plated and will surely oxidize fast.


Oxidized  Ag conducts as well as not.


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## Whitigir

Silver don’t typically oxidize the way that copper does.  I use them a lot, and especially inside my KG T2


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## stevedlu

skwoodwiva said:


> Oxidized  Ag conducts as well as not.


¯\_(ツ)_/¯


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## stevedlu

Whitigir said:


> Silver don’t typically oxidize the way that copper does.  I use them a lot, and especially inside my KG T2



Jeeez thats a nice looking potentiometer


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