# iBasso fi.Quest Official Thread



## theory_87

Instruction manual
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 Very sorry for late and I'm modding 8 fi.Q's from yesterday and struggling to make guidances.










 The switches on above side will set for......

 SW1; BUF634 Wideband mode ON/OFF with 200 ohm connection btwn 1-4 pin.

 SW2; Output impedance changing switch (aka A47), and will improve stability for unstable OPAMPs,
 also changes proportion of output currents from buffers and OPAMPs.*(Highly recommended to set this ON)*
*Output current proportion*
 When ON, OPAMP : BUF on front : BUF on bottom = 1 : 1 : 1 (OPAMP works 1/3), can achieve less distortion, stability.
 When OFF, OPAMP : BUF on front : BUF on bottom = 1 : 5 : 5 (OPAMP works 1/11), can provide more driveability for low efficient headphones.

 If you mind the hiss, are you using with default setting?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


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## theory_87

Ok. Pictures speak a thousand words.

























 The inside










 My Current setup


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## theory_87

ryuzoh, ibasso did not send me the caps. How do I go on to obtain them?


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## shigzeo

This is a lovely amp and so too, is its prototype! March will be a great time!


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## charlie0904

something seems to be missing...


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## SpudHarris

Now I'm worried.......


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## qusp

blonde moment


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## theory_87

Let wait for ryuzoh to reply 1st. I'm sure there is some miscommunication somewhere.


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## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let wait for ryuzoh to reply 1st. I'm sure there is some miscommunication somewhere._

 

Yes looks like one that was to go to Ryuzoh for caps. 

 I can't read on yours the shipping method. Was it DHL or UPS?


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## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes looks like one that was to go to Ryuzoh for caps. 

 I can't read on yours the shipping method. Was it DHL or UPS?_

 

it was through fardar. I have no idea what company it is. But as long as goods arrive, I don't mind. And it only took 1.5 days to reach me from China (i'm in the same time zone as Beijing) 

 I'm in no hurry now since I send my sf5eb for reshelling and ACS T1 for rma.


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## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ryuzoh, ibasso did not send me the caps. How do I go on to obtain them?_

 

You said me to buy BGs by yourself and let the PCB with no caps.


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## shigzeo

Funny, I didn't notice the missing caps! Obviously, the order system either has to be tweaked, or there needs to be perfect communication. Hope you get your caps soon.


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## ryuzoh

The PCBs for qusp, theory_87, and uvak will be arrived with no caps.

 Qusp's is having UTSJ 10000uF/16V as C1-C2, and the others will be shipped to be modified by me.


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## qusp

like I said I dont mind, its how I wanted it with no caps. sounds like there wasnt even a miscommunication. I was only commenting because ibasso said to me all amps were the same and I doubt everyone wants it like this. I repeat. its all good by me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 less work. you got the buffers and opamps though right?? aside from the 2 optional SMD places on the underside?

 I do think that perhaps not everyone at ibasso has their head around this order and some special circumstance orders. but that is to be expected

 by that I mean not everyone there, not in the workshop, because by the looks of the build its pretty sweet!! 

 I want to make it clear that I was not accusing ibasso of anything. but as it stood there did seem to be an explanation needed. and it is given 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 there were indeed special cases apart from the 10000uf caps for me, but its just the person I spoke to initially must not have known about any special circumstances orders and so told me all were the same. 

 this was too mucgh for my little brain to take in and I have been recovering from it ever since ;P


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## theory_87

ryuzoh, I believe it all miscommunication. Don't get it wrong. I don't have the intention to blame you or ibasso. You got pm


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## SpudHarris

Panic over everyone..........

 And it keeps getting better as mine has now left the hub & may well be delivered tomorrow but Thursday (Christmas Eve) latest. I'm afraid that the kids will just have to put their own batteries in their toys this year as I may be busy


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## qusp

I will resume my status as giddy as a schoolgirl


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## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ryuzoh, I believe it all miscommunication. Don't get it wrong. I don't have the intention to blame you or ibasso. You got pm_

 

Replied


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## qusp

Ryuzoh or jon, of course I can trace it, but are you able to point out the star ground either for the whole amp or perhaps just the output section? I need a grounding point for my buffers and the burson discrete opamps even the opamp adapters i'm using have a grounding pad for bypassing the power pins. I was thinking of using the switch nearby the buffers as it would seem convenient and appropriate, but if there is somewhere more appropriate to the existing star ground point of the amp that would be cool. perhaps the charge socket? is there a schema available for owners? obviously the point the virtual ground is generated would be best


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## ryuzoh

Okay, but unfortunately I didn't receive yet
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 After its arrival, will upload some guidances at once.


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## qusp

thanks mate, that would be great! really you dont have it?


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## SpudHarris

Well DHL are dragging their feet with mine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 it has been at Heathrow for a whole day (from 6am) and not moved at all. Looks as though mine will be here after xmas now, I'm not happy.....


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## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well DHL are dragging their feet with mine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 it has been at Heathrow for a whole day (from 6am) and not moved at all. Looks as though mine will be here after xmas now, I'm not happy....._

 

Well I hope they get it out to you. I have had great experience with them here in California. 

 It looks like mine should arrive today. I have been using the fi.Q but without a case. You guys are going to go nuts with all the great options and what headphones you use won't be limited. 

 In the past I have always preferred to bring all grounding back to the ground of the main power supply cap. I would terminate star grounding there. I have gone so far as to lift grounds on something I have not made bringing everything back to that point for conventional grounding.


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## SpudHarris

Thanks Jon, I have my fingers crossed that something miraculous happens overnight.

 I can't seem to find the detail on the OEM thread that tells what opamp limitations there are. I seem to remember that you can or can't use OPA637's with certain versions. I know there are equal (or even better in some opinion) opamps out there but it would be nice to be able to bring the 637's out of retirement 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 maybe Ryuzoh could comment for me yet again (thanks Ryuzoh)


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## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_thanks mate, that would be great! really you dont have it? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No, here has no production models, and seems to be arriving in this morning.
 Actually I can see 3 protos here but they are differing in several points from the finals.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It looks like mine should arrive today._

 

Glad to hear that, and should be S/N 075.
 The other one (S/N 003) will arrive here with mine, and immediately modded and shipped to you
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I can't seem to find the detail on the OEM thread that tells what opamp limitations there are. I seem to remember that you can or can't use OPA637's with certain versions. I know there are equal (or even better in some opinion) opamps out there but it would be nice to be able to bring the 637's out of retirement 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 maybe Ryuzoh could comment for me yet again (thanks Ryuzoh)_

 

No, you can use OPA637s on this amp
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What I told you before was for your P3+.
 However some limitations are existing, easy to say..... *DO NOT connect JP1 and JP2, and DO NOT use with low gain position.*
 When the jumpers were connected, 637s will supply *huge DC* to your treasures
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 And this circuit can make 637s without oscillation at Low gain, but I can't assure it as 100%


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## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well I hope they get it out to you. I have had great experience with them here in California. 

 It looks like mine should arrive today. I have been using the fi.Q but without a case. You guys are going to go nuts with all the great options and what headphones you use won't be limited. 

 In the past I have always preferred to bring all grounding back to the ground of the main power supply cap. I would terminate star grounding there. I have gone so far as to lift grounds on something I have not made bringing everything back to that point for conventional grounding._

 

yeah this is the first time I will have needed one in a device that doesnt actually have a ground. I usually use the IEC or ground on one of the power supplies. the reason I ask is there may already be a star ground and I dont want to make another and risk loops.

 on a sad note I dont think i'm going to get mine for Xmas either. mine left singapore yesterday some time, but has not hit OZ yet, still needs to be cleared. this would mean I wont get it until after the weekend


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## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_on a sad note I dont think i'm going to get mine for Xmas either. mine left singapore yesterday some time, but has not hit OZ yet, still needs to be cleared. this would mean I wont get it until after the weekend 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Too bad....
 Then you can research and plan of caps onto fi.Q and can see guidance here before its arrival


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## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Too bad....
 Then you can research and plan of caps onto fi.Q and can see guidance here before its arrival
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

i'm maintaining a strict attitude of pessimism so I am pleasantly surprised if it does show up today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. it may actually be here and tracking hasnt updated yet. if it left singapore yesterday chances are its arrived, but nothing shows yet. I might be lucky.

 but yes I can use the time to prepare. I have built 4 buffers last night (2 different caps) and prepared the burson opamp (dual) for the amp so it fits. I split it in half and lay it flat, attached to a socket with cryoparts SCSCAg silver 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 thanks for the suggestion Jon, there are many points I could choose, but that is not what I should be doing. I assume there is already some sort of star grounding system and I should adhere to that or I risk issues


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## jamato8

Mine has landed! Number 075. 

 The power supply, being different from what I was using for the other fi.Q's is very substantial! This has some iron in it. I couldn't believe the weight of the box. A true transformer, no switching here. 

 Out of the box, no warm up the sound is uhhh. This is true of my Woo or anything else that hasn't been on, not warmed up and caps not formed. 

 Got it charging and after 20 minutes I am already hearing a change. We all expect this but it is always interesting to me. And the external power supply, nice to feel something getting warm.

 The case of the fi.Quest has a very nice finish. A flat black anodizing with a true quality feel to it. You can tell this is built for years of use. The volume control is smooth with just the right amount of friction as you turn it.

 You guys are in for a real treat!


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## slwiser

S/N100 here, came in a few minutes ago. I have it up and running with my Dell Mini9 and Pico Dac, totally off the grid using the available charge it came with. So far I am very satisfied with the sound I am hearing out of my UE9s. I am using the lowest gain and lowest bass setting. My volume setting is only about 9:30 on the lowest gain.


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## jamato8

Number 100, cool. Ok, hooking up my Ed. 9. :^) I have been using my JH13's and on low gain zero hiss and very open sounding but more time is needed for everything to form. 

 Plugging in the Ed. 9. . . about 11:00 on mine due to the lower voltage out on my dac to the fi.Quest. I am using the optical in MB-1. Wow, what detail. I have have to throw the HD650 on and the HF2's.

 I like what the amp does with the Grado HF2. A very spatial and open sound. Very transparent. Now where did I put those additional BUF634's. :^) Now I can start using those HA5002's. Xin sent me a few adapters so you can use the 5002 in a standard pinout and I do like the HA5002. They can even stack with the BUF634. So many options, where to start, where to start.


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## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Number 100, cool. Ok, hooking up my Ed. 9. :^) I have been using my JH13's and on low gain zero hiss and very open sounding but more time is needed for everything to form. 

 Plugging in the Ed. 9. . . about 11:00 on mine due to the lower voltage out on my dac to the fi.Quest. I am using the optical in MB-1. Wow, what detail. I have have to throw the HD650 on and the HF2's._

 

It is the detail and sound staging that blew me away when I first heard it. Being the default version I did not think it could sound like this. The 9:30 am was on a fairly hot CD, now I am listening to a more normal one closer to 11 am.


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## qusp

i'm gonna be short a couple of 47uf caps when mine arrives anyway 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 2 of the 47 i'm replacing with 100uf, but i'm not sure I can replace all 33uf and 47 uf with 100uf temporarily or not? I wont get the rest of my caps from PCX for a week or so, in the meantime I have some panas on the way from farnell, but I dont think I will get anything from them until tuesday 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 only 47uf I have are blackgate NX and they are only 6.3v, so I suppose it depends on the circuit whether I can use them anywhere. temporarily


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## jamato8

If they will fit I would just leave the 100uf caps. Remember always keep stock. I have so much stock I don't know what I will do with all of it but it is in storage 1000 miles away. So now I have a mobile stock. 

 I just put on Hotel California from the Eagles, Hell Freezes Over because I like the beginning bass drum. I will turn up the volume on amps, louder than I would listen but often I am curious if they will clip and many do but this just more and more solid. Voltage swing has its place.


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## slwiser

My Pico Amp/Dac may now get retired...after hearing this amp with my Pico Dac.


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## qusp

I rarely need this sort of value. I normally use much higher or much lower. but the main reason I dont have any apart from whats on the way is because we have been having a postal strike here in OZ, at christmas too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have 80 and 100uf that will fit, I just wasnt sure if that was wise. I know 2 of them its all good as one of ryuzohs mods involves upping them to 220uf, but the others all stay at 33 and 47 which makes me think it might be like a digital circuit and not wise to up the value. if they are reservoir caps its no worries as these 80 and 100 are very fast and low ESR.


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## jamato8

I need to look more at the circuit but I think they are all for a stable supply to the chip so I can't see why 100uf wouldn't be fine. I don't use 33 very often either.


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## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yeah this is the first time I will have needed one in a device that doesnt actually have a ground. I usually use the IEC or ground on one of the power supplies. the reason I ask is there may already be a star ground and I dont want to make another and risk loops.

 on a sad note I dont think i'm going to get mine for Xmas either. mine left singapore yesterday some time, but has not hit OZ yet, still needs to be cleared. this would mean I wont get it until after the weekend 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

wield that it bypass my home 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Got to do some shopping for caps later today. But I only had Eterna to listen with for now


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## jamato8

Wow, a solid aluminum volume control and set screw vs hollow aluminum and push on. Nice. And the volume control has the nut used so the face plate supports it, taking the strain off of the pot. 

 After just 5 hours the sound. This amp is fast. It is making listening to my headphones fun again. It has a different sound compared to my Woo 6. In a good way it has a control that has to be heard.


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## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After just 5 hours the sound. This amp is fast. It is making listening to my headphones fun again. It has a different sound compared to my Woo 6. In a good way it has a control that has to be heard._

 

Your comparing it to a tube amp and so am I...my Yamamoto HA-02. My Fi-Quest does have somewhat of a tube sound...It matches well with the detail of my Pico DAC.


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## qusp

well my pessimism worked!! I went to bed at 7am this morning and woke up now at 1pm and was just about to look at the tracking when I saw the luminous yellow silhouette through my front door 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 it must be hard to work with a hangover at DHL 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 you guys arent wrong about the PSU, its heavy as! I have not listened yet obviously, but the look is very stylish indeed! I flipped the switch and the LED came on 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I havent cracked her open yet, but that wouldnt seem right; perhaps they installed all caps instead of just the 10000uf UTSJ. or I suppose with just the 10000UF it might actually work since they seem to be the only large caps involved in the power supply. I particularly like how when you turn it off the LED flickers quickly, then slower, then off very cool. the matt finish is awesome and befitting such a high quality amp. I will open it up and see what is inside shortly.

 will post pics a little later with the buffers and burson opamp mod.


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## qusp

well looks like all the caps are there, nothing in the CP positions (bypass) the burson wont fit without some remodeling but the buffers will. i've dropped LME96720HA in the amp position, will try OPA211 (with bypassed power pins) and OPA827, will do some listening like this before I do anything else. will wait for Ryuzoh to suggest a star ground before I install the buffers. for now I must go down and make a couple of mini to minis


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## theory_87

Actually i feel the case design is a little thin. But still much better than SR71a. Diablo got the best casing among all amps i owned


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## shigzeo

I didn't really dance on Ryuzoh's whilst at the headphone meet, so I cannot say, but you may be right about the diablo. RSA amps can be pure maker gems.


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## jamato8

I can't see how the case would need to be thicker. Just a minute. . . . 

 ok stood on it and then threw it off of the 3rd floor. . . . . . Hey, good a new. :^)

 The 71A seems fine to me. Custom extrusion and has taken plenty of hard use here.


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## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Actually i feel the case design is a little thin. But still much better than SR71a. Diablo got the best casing among all amps i owned_

 

I think its fine, not perfect, but I dont know how much more I would pay for a custom enclosure, maybe 50 bucks. wow I guess its been a while since you owned the diablo, or perhaps you werent into modding (or even opening) your gear then? I have a diablo, it looks very very sexy and modern art'ish i'll definitely agree to that, but it comes at a cost. the edges are very sharp, it scratches anything that even glances at it (including ipods of course) and you can even cut yourself on it, its also glued shut to enable that cool seamless look, I recently had to install a new battery in mine and I can tell you it wasnt fun 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 the only amp i've ever owned that you need a hot air gun to open it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ; of course it IS beautiful and sounds great too...but i'll take a case that functions over a pretty one thanks

 that being said I think it (the OEM) looks very cool in a utilitarian/industrial/edgy kind of way

 any yes the knob is sweet.

 have only had a chance to test it works for 5 mins, but at this stage all I will say is it sounds as big as it looks...actually much bigger. with LME49720HA and buf634 and JH13 and on low gain it does hiss a touch with no music playing though; less than lisa, but it still does. Its not worrisome though, will see if I can find an opamp combo that doesnt as it could just be the national chip. so i'll just leave it burning and get used to the sound a little while I prepare everything else for it. will post some pics tomorrow of the setup for the discrete buffers. still unsure of whether I will do the necessary modding to allow the bursons to fit or whether I will just be content with discrete buffers and the ability to power the finest opamp chips. 

 the buffers take bipolar input and output SE, they are a drop in replacement for BUF634 as well though, so its not totally necessary to have bipolar. but I could use OPA1632 (fully differential opamp, the one used in the buffalo32 sabre dac) which will allow SE input and output differential. if doing this I would have to wire direct to the buffer as I doubt the PCB is set up for bipolar signal to the buffer socket. with a couple of further mods I could have balanced output; love having a bipolar power supply to play with


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## ryuzoh

This is yours, John
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Attachment 23964


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## qusp

how many of these have you got Jon? you had one before they shipped, then you opened a new one today; is this one above the one you had before??


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## T.IIZUKA

My Fi-Quest there is no Cap. Sound does not come out. 
 Just the photograph publishes.











 Fi-Quest Vs. Styleaudio CARAT-RUBY







 No Cap. No Sound.


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## SpudHarris

Well I'm in the gang also as mine turned up about 10mins ago 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 No instructions though? What are the power options on the rear? I've just put it on 1 at present, Charge and Isolated I assume this is just charge only. 2 I assume is Off completely and 3 I assume is Charge and listen at the same time.... can someone confirm that for me. God I sound dim and I haven't even openned her up yet.

 Sure look pretty though, if it sounds as nice as it looks I'll be pleased.


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## qusp

yes Ryuzoh, even though the average OEM owner is a tweaker at heart and most (and I stress most ^^) have got a clue 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 you might consider either including a rudimentary manual or putting together a PDF and emailing it out. this thread will become a resource for owners as well, but at the moment we are winging it. 

 BTW just cracked open the charger and added to my PCX order to upgrade the rubicon caps to Nichicon 4700uf/35v KZ and 470 or 330uf (got both), some tantalum bypass caps to deal with ripple and I also will replace the hookup with with 16AWG neotech UPOCC and put an upgraded AC plug on there too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 dont know what type of diode is being used for a reference (i;'m assuming zener) but will play with other options here once I know more about it. I have other supplies that would probably do better anyway for home use, but I think having a portable upgraded PSU to bring on the road for use with all sorts of things will be way cool

 I would like to know a little more about the switches and headers inside as well when you have time mate


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## SpudHarris

You're mocking me aren't you...


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## qusp

Meeee?.....

 hehe nah dont worry about it, i'd like some confirmation regarding the charging positions too. its one thing to be able to make a guess; educated or otherwise; but another to know for sure. I prefer the latter.

 i'm not charging the amp at all yet though, s even though most modern batteries dont have memory effect I would rather be safe than sorry. so i'm going to run it till the light starts flashing (not all the way flat) before I charge it for the first time.


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## SpudHarris

Graham Slee Solo is going up for sale.........

 This amp is superb. I couldn't help having a little look under the hood though and one thing lead to another, you know how it is 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. So now I'm listening with AD797's in L/R with OPA627 in G and Hi-C buffers. I don't really have the funds to shell out on tens upon tens of amps but I have had some half decent stuff when I could afford it, let me tell you this amp is an absolute steal and by far the best purchase I've made in 2009 (apart from the new Shpongle CD of course).

 Hats off and a big thanks to Ryuzoh and the guys at ibasso for making this happen


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## jamato8

Yes in the 3 position it charges and you can play. The traces are gold plated vs tin. 

 Listening to J. Hendrix tearing up the guitar. Excellent separation and drive. Purple Haze holds together as does Foxy Lady. Plays well with the Ed. 9 and the JH13's. The bass is starting to come in very nice. 

 qusp, did you measure the ripple?


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## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how many of these have you got Jon? you had one before they shipped, then you opened a new one today; is this one above the one you had before??_

 

Yes it got updated.


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## qusp

nope, havent measured anything as yet, jam, will do some measurements when I go to do anything with it. there will be some though. its higher quality than your average wallwart thats for sure, but it will be improved. got a new scope coming in a week or so for testing the beta release of the ackodac sabre dac project based in OZ. so i'll put it all on the scope then. have you??

 I tell you what, you werent wrong about the sound filling out quickly. the first few minutes were pretty ordinary and bass light. also at this stage i'm finding the high gain mode and low volume to be superior to low gain and higher volume.


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## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_also at this stage i'm finding the high gain mode and low volume to be superior to low gain and higher volume._

 

I tried that also Jeremy but the JH13's were hissing like mad, didn't you find that?


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## qusp

yeah, I think johns ears must be getting old ;P this amp does hiss with the 13s
 I think i'm just going to change out the LME chip, its a bit sterile sounding. will put OPA827 in in the morning


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## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yeah, I think johns ears must be getting old - or I have a poor source - ;P this amp does hiss with the 13s
 I think i'm just going to change out the LME chip, its a bit sterile sounding. will put OPA827 in in the morning_

 

With nothing connected to the amp I don't hear hiss. 

 All of my real testing equipment is in storage 1000 miles away. 9 tube testers, a capacitor checker for ESR etc that I love to use and other stuff. Well I got these ears. . . lol


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## theory_87

ryuzoh, can you explain the switch inside? I switch all on as I do not know which is for Hi-C buffer.

 I have install my own caps in. Currently using opa2134 in the amp, 2x 2stack buf634p as buffer and ad8397 as ground. Excellent sounding. will order ad8620 and 4x buf634u to try out soon.


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## slwiser

There is a way to make this four channel or three channel somehow from reading the main thread, maybe this is what that does.


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## jamato8

The fi.Q can be 3 or 4 channel. I like it better in 3 channel, which most likely is how you received it. The other two switches increase current but also increase distortion a tiny bit. I have all the changes somewhere but don't have it memorized. There are so many options. They will offer effects on different opamps that may work with one and not as well with another. It is like some of the tube equipment I made. I could vary the plate voltage, current etc., which allowed for different tubes to be used or fine tuning any one single type of tube.


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## ryuzoh

Very sorry for late and I'm modding 8 fi.Q's from yesterday and struggling to make guidances.










 The switches on above side will set for......

 SW1; BUF634 Wideband mode ON/OFF with 200 ohm connection btwn 1-4 pin.

 SW2; Output impedance changing switch (aka A47), and will improve stability for unstable OPAMPs,
 also changes proportion of output currents from buffers and OPAMPs.*(Highly recommended to set this ON)*
*Output current proportion*
 When ON, _OPAMP : BUF on front : BUF on bottom = 1 : 1 : 1_ (OPAMP works 1/3), can achieve less distortion, stability.
 When OFF, _OPAMP : BUF on front : BUF on bottom = 1 : 5 : 5_ (OPAMP works 1/11), can provide more driveability for low efficient headphones.

 If you mind the hiss, are you using with default setting?


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## jamato8

Ryuzoh, you have your hands full!

 The sound is coming in very well on the fi.Q. I have what, about 26 hours on it and the bass is smoothing out the the transparency is very good. I love the control it throws on any headphones I use.

 I am listening to some Jerry Garcia, live from 1990. A out of print CD that is spectacular and the sound with the fi.Q is intoxicating. I can really hear the changes over the last 24 hours, which is to be expected.


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## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With nothing connected to the amp I don't hear hiss. 

 All of my real testing equipment is in storage 1000 miles away. 9 tube testers, a capacitor checker for ESR etc that I love to use and other stuff. Well I got these ears. . . lol_

 

ahem well I checked out your theory and there is still a small but still there hiss with JH13 and D10 off on low gain in the middle of the day. but seriously its really not worth mentioning, its quite low and disappears when music is playing. we all know how sensitive JH13 are so its not surprising. 

 like I said earlier, it may well be the metal cans anyway. i'm going out for Xmas lunch and the switch will have to wait till I get back. the fiQ sounds amazing and the hiss is less than Lisa, so i'm happy as larry, also the tweak potential satisfies another side of me VERY much!!

 9 tube testers LOL

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[MG]http://www31.atwiki.jp/p3c-project?cmd=upload&act=open&pageid=1&file=4fiq.JPG[/IMG]
 Very sorry for late and I'm modding 8 fi.Q's from yesterday and struggling to make guidances.

 Will upload here below from now, please wait.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 [IG]http://www31.atwiki.jp/p3c-project?cmd=upload&act=open&pageid=1&file=front.JP G[/IMG]
 [IG]http://www31.atwiki.jp/p3c-project?cmd=upload&act=open&pageid=1&file=bottom.J PG[/IMG]_

 

nice big wacom Ryuzoh, I only have a 6 x 8 one but I love it.I had spotted all that stuff on the bottom, nice one!! i'll have to have a play with all that for sure. I think I prefer 3 channel too, wil see after I start my round of mods

 I havent changed the position of the switches Ryuzoh, so whatever was set at the factory is how it is. I will check later on when I instal OPA827 and maybe try the buffers. I doubt it is on though , as I think I would notice 1:5:5 with JH13 lol. I dont mind the hiss mate, its really very minimal and I only mentioned it to be thorough with my observations, not because its bothering me


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryuzoh, you have your hands full!

 The sound is coming in very well on the fi.Q. I have what, about 26 hours on it and the bass is smoothing out the the transparency is very good. I love the control it throws on any headphones I use.._

 

Yes, and I'm getting awaken last 35 hours....
 FGs will give more transparency until 100h by its thick foils like KZs.

  Quote:


 nice big wacom Ryuzoh, I only have a 6 x 8 one but I love it.I had spotted all that stuff on the bottom, nice one!! i'll have to have a play with all that for sure. I think I prefer 3 channel too, wil see after I start my round of mods 
 

Thanks, coz my hands require longer stroke.
 Looking forward to see your skyscraper
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 IMO, 2nd one from left is very good...combination of KW10000uF, KZ33/47uF, and ES47uF.


----------



## shigzeo

very nice manual Ryuzoh. And lovely pic!


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, and I'm getting awaken last 35 hours....
 FGs will give more transparency until 100h by its thick foils like KZs.


 Thanks, coz my hands require longer stroke.
 Looking forward to see your skyscraper
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 IMO, 2nd one from left is very good...combination of KW10000uF, KZ33/47uF, and ES47uF._

 

yeah I still have an old A3 size wacom, but its quite old and only has serial interface lol, I dont need bigger than 6x8 most of the time, but ever now and then I wish for my old one to work. I use it all the time instead of my mouse, I have a stylus callous on my right wrist from the pad 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I will take some pics of my new rig tomorrow. I have outfitted it quite nicely with a couple of new low profile mini2minis (for choice).

 i'll go down and solder up some OPA827 in a moment, i'm finding that with my current combination I must have it in high gain or its lacking in dynamism and in particular low in bass. perhaps the LME49720 (for some reason I can never remember the national chips model numbers properly. one extra digit kills my brain 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think perhaps this chip needs higher gain to be stable, its like a different amp in high gain with this chip fitted. Nigel, have you tried the ADA4627-1BRZ in the OEM yet?


----------



## SpudHarris

I have indeed but to be truthfull the AD827's are doing it for me at present with stacked 634P's and a metal can 47910 in ground boy this is some amp......

 Haven't tried any switches yet as I'm still not 100% sure of the likely changes. I will definately be following this thread to see what combinations you guys come up with. My amp is standard so imagine how stoked i am to know that better is to come when I get Ryuzoh to maxx it out for me. Don't worry Ryuzoh it won't be for a while yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## theory_87

Ryuzoh, may I know what is the bg resistor for r19?

 I will put your post into the 1st page


----------



## slwiser

This is one sweet sounding amp as supplied with the default setup. I will wait till others do their experimenting to determine if I want to go away from the default. I am very satisfied with it as it is. I am interested in what the ADA4627-1BRZ does to the sound.


----------



## theory_87

My Current setup





 The amp hiss with tf10p + 1 driver reshell and run warm...


----------



## qusp

its so hot here at the moment I wouldnt have a clue whether it runs warm or not


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yeah I still have an old A3 size wacom, but its quite old and only has serial interface lol, I dont need bigger than 6x8 most of the time, but ever now and then I wish for my old one to work. I use it all the time instead of my mouse, I have a stylus callous on my right wrist from the pad 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Then iMate inevitable?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i'll go down and solder up some OPA827 in a moment, i'm finding that with my current combination I must have it in high gain or its lacking in dynamism and in particular low in bass. perhaps the LME49720 (for some reason I can never remember the national chips model numbers properly. one extra digit kills my brain 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think perhaps this chip needs higher gain to be stable, its like a different amp in high gain with this chip fitted. Nigel, have you tried the ADA4627-1BRZ in the OEM yet?_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is one sweet sounding amp as supplied with the default setup. I will wait till others do their experimenting to determine if I want to go away from the default. I am very satisfied with it as it is. I am interested in what the ADA4627-1BRZ does to the sound._

 

I already tried ADA4627-1(A and B), which gives precise sound stage and focusing 3D sound...I think this is so suitable with E8.
 And LME49710/20 always go with this amp
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My Current setup
 The amp hiss with tf10p + 1 driver reshell and run warm..._

 

The pic shows imbalanced bypassing. And can see using FW10000uF/16V.
 Also what are you using on G_CH? Why I didn't solder R19 (wideband mode resistor for G_CH) is, I couldn't find merit for using it;(
 And as you know, OPs on there should be higher output current type.
 I don't always recommend 4ch architecture, so that produces DC, and I received massages from Japanese users who says 4ch architecture will give hiss.
 BTW, I think stacked 634 won't go with the wideband mode (SW1 ON) when portable use, of course will get warmer than LT1210.
 Wideband mode will make it effective with single 634P and 634U.


----------



## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pic shows imbalanced bypassing.
 Also what are you using on G_CH? Why I didn't solder R19 (wideband mode resistor for G_CH) is, I couldn't find merit for using it;(
 And as you know, OPs on there should be higher output current type.
 I don't always recommend 4ch architecture, so that produces DC, and I received massages from Japanese users who says 4ch architecture will give hiss.
 BTW, I think stacked 634 won't go with the wideband mode (SW1 ON) when portable use, of course will get warmer than LT1210.
 Wideband mode will make it effective with single 634P and 634U._

 

Sorry, which part is imbalanced bypassing
 ad8397 is used in the ground channel.
 My dad is the user of the amp and he think it sounds better with wide band width and 4ch. I can't have a proper test as all my iem is not with me till next week


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry, which part is imbalanced bypassing
 ad8397 is used in the ground channel.
 My dad is the user of the amp and he think it sounds better with wide band width and 4ch. I can't have a proper test as all my iem is not with me till next week_

 

Wwwwait....AD8397 is dual channel OP, which COULDN'T be used on the G_CH socket where is for single OP only.
 I think this seems to be cause of the hiss, so should be removed and requiring to be changed immediately.

 Imbalanced parts are left side FX....seems to be using 100uF and 47uF, 
 They should be in same capacitance.


----------



## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wwwwait....AD8397 is dual channel OP, so COULDN'T be used on the G_CH socket there is for single only.
 I think this seems to be cause of the hiss, so should be removed and changed immediately._

 

My bad... will do it then. I thought I should use dual channel op there just like Xin SuperMacroIV


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My bad... will do it then. I thought I should use dual channel op there just like Xin SuperMacroIV_

 

In GND is *driven by LT1210* as like PRII and Portaphile V2^2.
 Out GND is *changeable btwn Standalone single OP or common connection to In GND.*

 But actually this amp can achieve 110dB+ SNR with 3ch architecture


----------



## SpudHarris

Ryuzoh, sorry to bombard you with 'another'. I still use your recommended set up with the P3+ and have yet to better the SQ this set up puts out. If you are using ADA4267's in L/R what buffer and ground set up do you recommend? Also I find big hiss with 4 channel compared to 3......


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryuzoh, sorry to bombard you with 'another'. I still use your recommended set up with the P3+ and have yet to better the SQ this set up puts out. If you are using ADA4267's in L/R what buffer and ground set up do you recommend?_

 

As your 1st, for OPA637s, I always use 3ch architecture.
 Given with 4 channel, I'll use with R19 as 100 ohms and single 634P on G_CH, no stacking. 

 L/R buffers what I'm using now for ADA4627 are HA-5002 adapter (we'll release later) on above, 2-stacked BUF634Us on bottom side.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also I find big hiss with 4 channel compared to 3......_

 

I'm thinking this as caused by arrangement of LT1210.
 Can you get rid of R20 and jumper it?
 Let me know result of your trial
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Added----
 Also, are you using default caps on C1-C2?


----------



## jamato8

You don't think that stacking the 634U on the underside will get the 634U too warm as thee wouldn't be any real air gab between the stacked buffers? 

 Ryuzoh, what do you think is the max wattage output for the fi.Q?


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You don't think that stacking the 634U on the underside will get the 634U too warm as thee wouldn't be any real air gab between the stacked buffers? 

 Ryuzoh, what do you think is the max wattage output for the fi.Q?_

 

I'm going to use stacked 634s without wideband mode (SW1 OFF) as like newest Supermacro IV.
 So, they won't get warm, needless to give air gaps.
 Because stacking is used for achieve lower distortion as making afford to give more currents to load.
 Why I don't simultaneously use wideband mode and stacking will be understood when you actually use.

 This is measuring THD+N and 12 ohms loading wattage


----------



## jamato8

Then you could also stack two on an adapter on top or use two adapter that are socketed, like some I have from Xin and have 4 stacked BUF634U with none under the board. 

 The THD is very low. That is 1 watt into 12 ohms. There are so many variables in frequency and load. I wonder what to expect as an average wattage or current with a voltage of 18 or 24?


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 The switches on above side will set for......

 SW1; BUF634 Wideband mode ON/OFF with 200 ohm connection btwn 1-4 pin.

 SW2; Output impedance changing switch (aka A47), and will improve stability for unstable OPAMPs,
 also changes proportion of output currents from buffers and OPAMPs.*(Highly recommended to set this ON)*
*Output current proportion*
 When ON, OPAMP : BUF on front : BUF on bottom = 1 : 1 : 1 (OPAMP works 1/3), can achieve less distortion, stability.
 When OFF, OPAMP : BUF on front : BUF on bottom = 1 : 5 : 5 (OPAMP works 1/11), can provide more driveability for low efficient headphones.

 If you mind the hiss, are you using with default setting?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Man so many questions to ask............

 My amps is standard, I assume the missing caps will be added when maxxed out?

 Can you not use switch one with stacked 634's? (top/bottom or both) or is that a preference thing.

 I have 4 x 634U's and may well stack them underneath at some point today. However as this is a somewhat perminent mod I wondered how this would limit what type of buffers are used above?

 I still prefer 4 channel to 3 but havent got rid of R20 and jumpered it yet I'll try this if the hiss bugs me but when the musics on I don't hear hiss, just beautiful 'Full Bodied' glorious tunage


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I already tried ADA4627-1(A and B), which gives precise sound stage and focusing 3D sound...I think this is so suitable with E8.
 And LME49710/20 always go with this amp
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

These are the two opamp that I was thinking of listening to when I get around to changing the default configuration. Do either of these or both require something more than a change out of the default opamp to implement them; i.e., different buffers, resistors or internal settings? Does it require more than a simple insertion to change the opamps?

 I will be using this primarily with my UE9s.

 Have you shown an internal picture of the default amp yet? I have seem various configurations but have not seen one that seems to be the default. I have yet to open my amp up, BTW.

 Thanks


----------



## qusp

boxing day at the beach was pretty nice 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	











 sound is powerful yet articulate and wide with 2 x OPA827 on this adapter its decoupled with silmic II bypassed with vishay COG 0.1uf, just wrapped the silver ground wire around the ground terminal of the power rail caps for now












 I have a silmic II on the other side as well, but for these pics hadnt sorted out how I would fit it in the amp with both. i'm still running stock caps in the amp bar the UTSJ 10000uf, will be installing a few nichicons tomorrow and when everything else arrives i'll go to town on the amp and power supply/wall-wart. I
 also have this 2 x OPA211 with blackgate and vishay COG, with custom cryo silver pins, but the BG wont fit like this and also the 22uf NXHQ is only rated to 6.3v, thought I would show it anyway as it shows what is possible with these adapters






 and the underside with silver pins






 and these are the diamond buffers with sanyo oscon SVP SMD, with temporary adapters on the end till I work out placement properly. i'll still leave the sockets in the amp to allow me to keep fiddling, but will simply push the SCSCAg directly into the sockets to save a little space






 as you can see I dont mind a little cardas flux for SMD soldering 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 its noclean so its no drama, will clean it up soon, when I can be bothered, as the white PCB certainly shows it off 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 here they are fitted bar the grounding 






 as you can see its a little tight, but doable and i'll still be able to fit the upgraded caps in the amp. If things get really squeezy I have some lower profile organic polymer caps from AVX, not cheap either; I have a few spare from my ackodac build. I built another 2 pairs of these buffers as well; a pair with 100uf Nichocon FG and another pair with some pansonic bypassed with 0.1uf BG; no chance those ones will fit though. I could probably fit the Nichocon ones with some coaxing and with just plugging the wires directly into the sockets. the input filter has been omitted for now, will leave it out unless needed

 and the gaggle of parts for my (not so) discrete rig and a ring-in




 i'll find a way to fit the Burson discrete opamp in there somehow, but not for a little while

 so Ryuzoh, i'm assuming this rather errrmm 'star-like' formation on the underside of the board at the UTSJ is the star-ground? certainly would seem right and it couldnt look more like a star if you tried 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I flipped the board over to have a look and that kind-of stood out to me. I wasnt expecting anything so 'X marks the spot' if its not the star-ground for the whole amp, it surely is for the power supply






 so yeah loving the amp with OPA827 in OP and 2xstack of BUF634P in buf (till I work out the SSB01 grounding) i'l stick some 634u on the bottom even if i'm running the discrete buffers. thinking I may even whack some OPA211AID on the bottom there actually. really want that much of a fan of the LME49720HA in there myself. having to use the amp in high gain just wasnt doing it for me. on low gain it was for lack of a better word; a little dull. bass was really lacking IMO. sounded grea5t in high gain, but thats just not practical, pity because I really like that chip. will see what its like in ground and give it another try when the buffers are installed.

 for the moment OPA827 wins hands down

 so can I confirm that the switches are ON when the switch is pushed towards the word ON? or away from ON? if towards the amp came supplied without the BUF in high current mode.

 and what you said to Theory87 regarding the unbalanced bypasses. you just meant that the supplies to each chip needed to be the same in value yes? not that each pair of C2/CP2 C3/CP3 C4/CP4 had to be identical caps, only that C2=C3=C4 and CP2=CP3=CP4 etc correct?

 i'm withholding my detailed impressions until I get my head around the sound some more and do a bit more tweaking. then i'll compare against a certain other portable in my stables


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My amps is standard, I assume the missing caps will be added when maxxed out?_

 

Sure.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you not use switch one with stacked 634's? (top/bottom or both) or is that a preference thing._

 

No. because that's meaningless.
 And just pulling out 634Ps can achieve it.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have 4 x 634U's and may well stack them underneath at some point today. However as this is a somewhat perminent mod I wondered how this would limit what type of buffers are used above?_

 

I'll do it for you when I max it out.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I still prefer 4 channel to 3 but havent got rid of R20 and jumpered it yet I'll try this if the hiss bugs me but when the musics on I don't hear hiss, just beautiful 'Full Bodied' glorious tunage 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think that should be fixed immediately.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do either of these or both require something more than a change out of the default opamp to implement them; i.e., different buffers, resistors or internal settings? Does it require more than a simple insertion to change the opamps?_

 

No, they don't require any changing from current circuit
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have you shown an internal picture of the default amp yet? I have seem various configurations but have not seen one that seems to be the default. I have yet to open my amp up, BTW._

 

Sorry, I didn't received any default setting amps.
 Because iBasso said several FG caps had damaged and required to be omitted, then I proposed to get omitted version.
 So, if you could, uploading from you will be pleased.

 Thanks


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so Ryuzoh, i'm assuming this rather errrmm 'star-like' formation on the underside of the board at the UTSJ is the star-ground? certainly would seem right and it couldnt look more like a star if you tried 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yes, that's it.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so can I confirm that the switches are ON when the switch is pushed towards the word ON? or away from ON? if towards the amp came supplied without the BUF in high current mode.

 and what you said to Theory87 regarding the unbalanced bypasses. you just meant that the supplies to each chip needed to be the same in value yes? not that each pair of C2/CP2 C3/CP3 C4/CP4 had to be identical caps, only that C2=C3=C4 and CP2=CP3=CP4 etc correct?_

 

Towards the word ON, and default is set as OFF both.

 Rail section
 C1=C6=CP4=C10
 C2=C5=CP3=C11

 Isolated OPAMP section
 C3=CP1=C13
 C4=CP2=C12


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think that should be fixed immediately_

 

Thanks Ryuzoh,

 Do you mean that will fix it immediately? OR I think that should be fixed immediately? (as in if you don't there will be a problem). The hiss isn't bad enough to effect my listening experience but if you are sure removing and jumping R20 will cure it then I'll do it. Thanks for assisting Ryuzoh, much appreciated


----------



## ryuzoh

Sorry for your confusing, I meant the R20 problem.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry for your confusing, I meant the R20 problem._

 

I am confused. I am not sure about this implementation. :^)

 I have left my fi.Q as stock with opamps as shipped, just letting it settle in. The sound has continued mature. It is extremely fast, i.e., no smearing from upper bass to lower mids with a beautiful transient response. I am listening with the HF2 Grados right now. They are exceptionally well controlled with this amp. I look forward to trying the opa627 or opa637 but in the other fi.Q. 

 The combination of the MB-1 optical in dual dac, iRiver H140 and lossless with the fi.Q is a powerful combination.


----------



## SpudHarris

I'm still a little confused myself.....I'm not sure that R20 is a ''Problem'' as such, I just commented that I get hiss with 4 channel set up (hiss goes when using 3 channels). Ryuzoh said by removing R20 and just jumping it would sort out the hiss. I've had a look and think I'll leave it as long as Ryuzoh can just confirm that there is no underlying issue regarding this.

 I have decided to use the Fi-Q as my home amp replacing the PSU1 Solo, this will be going on e-bay in the new year once I get the Fi-Q back from Maxxing out...... This certainly is some amp.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have left my fi.Q as stock with opamps as shipped, just letting it settle in. The sound has continued mature. It is extremely fast, i.e., no smearing from upper bass to lower mids with a beautiful transient response. I am listening with the HF2 Grados right now. They are exceptionally well controlled with this amp. I look forward to trying the opa627 or opa637 but in the other fi.Q. 

 The combination of the MB-1 optical in dual dac, iRiver H140 and lossless with the fi.Q is a powerful combination._

 

Thank you and your 003 had been shipped yesterday (R20 replaced).
 I'll let you know tracking No.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm still a little confused myself.....I'm not sure that R20 is a ''Problem'' as such, I just commented that I get hiss with 4 channel set up (hiss goes when using 3 channels). Ryuzoh said by removing R20 and just jumping it would sort out the hiss. I've had a look and think I'll leave it as long as Ryuzoh can just confirm that there is no underlying issue regarding this.

 I have decided to use the Fi-Q as my home amp replacing the PSU1 Solo, this will be going on e-bay in the new year once I get the Fi-Q back from Maxxing out...... This certainly is some amp._

 

First, thank you for your praising.
 The hiss is also reported in Japan, what is caused by LT1210 and I'm now struggling to solve the issue.
 I'll email you soon to max yours out.


----------



## jamato8

Ok, so I looked again at the layout in the fi.Q I have here. There is a buffer 634 in the ground channel and the two 634 buffers have the switches in the off postion. The opamp is the AD712JN. Is this the stock setup? This would be in 4 channel then with the buffers in the non wide band mode.


----------



## SpudHarris

That's the default set up Jon, exactly as mine was when it arrived.....

 The only switch I've flicked is No 2 next to Ground channel (see Ryuzoh's recommendation on pg. 5)


----------



## jamato8

Too many options. :^)

 It is funny because on my preamp I built that used three tubes for channel then two and then finally I settled on one with an output transformer, I left two sockets. For these I can use high current draw heater tubes like the 55 or 27 or the lower draw, 76 all with a flick of a switch. I can also change the voltages on the tubes, according to the tube used. There is a nice combination of quality components. My external power supply is a dual regulated mono power supply source that used two 6X4 tubes per supply for the initial rectification with a final output of 480 volts that is pretty much ripple free but I still use 4 inductors in the preamp. There is more but maybe I am a tube guy more than solid state. 

 The fi.Q options are fun though and offer challenges and rewards.


----------



## qusp

wow this amp gets HOT!! when charging. I just put it on 'charge and isolated' before going to bed and its now 10:30 am and it was still piping hot 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 shouldnt this have become fully charged and cooled down/stopped charging by now? its been on charge for about 9hrs and the battery warning light wasnt on when I plugged it in last night. how long does it take to charge from empty Ryuzoh?


----------



## jamato8

It does get warm but mine hasn't gotten hot. It takes a while to charge, I haven't timed mine or the prototypes, I guess I should have but I never thought of it. I am still not sure what charge and loading means. 

 I am listening to some Chet Baker Jazz, My Favorite Sons, disc 1 and this amp does piano and horn right. Very fluid and the dynamics allows an unrestrained ease to the music. The separation of this recording, which was live, is very realistic.


----------



## qusp

ok, well maybe it just hadnt finished charging then and that would sort of explain it. maybe hot was the wrong word as I could still comfortable hiold the amp, but very very warm and much warmer than anything else I own including lisa which only barely gets warm. I would have thought 8-9hrs would fully charge from a battery that wasnt even low though.....

 havent listened to the amp yet today, will do after lunch and this time I will try out some of my fullsize cans


----------



## qusp

moved to PM


----------



## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wow this amp gets HOT!! when charging. I just put it on 'charge and isolated' before going to bed and its now 10:30 am and it was still piping hot 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 shouldnt this have become fully charged and cooled down/stopped charging by now? its been on charge for about 9hrs and the battery warning light wasnt on when I plugged it in last night. how long does it take to charge from empty Ryuzoh?_

 

Told you it get hot... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can use it as my cup warmer in the office 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 btw, the orange led on mine doesn't turn off after 12h


----------



## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Too many options. :^)

 It is funny because on my preamp I built that used three tubes for channel then two and then finally I settled on one with an output transformer, I left two sockets. For these I can use high current draw heater tubes like the 55 or 27 or the lower draw, 76 all with a flick of a switch. I can also change the voltages on the tubes, according to the tube used. There is a nice combination of quality components. My external power supply is a dual regulated mono power supply source that used two 6X4 tubes per supply for the initial rectification with a final output of 480 volts that is pretty much ripple free but I still use 4 inductors in the preamp. There is more but maybe I am a tube guy more than solid state. 

 The fi.Q options are fun though and offer challenges and rewards._

 

Agree... too lost on where to start. I'm focusing on opamp 1st


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Told you it get hot... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I can use it as my cup warmer in the office 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 btw, the orange led on mine doesn't turn off after 12h 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

you did indeed. I was thinking of frying my breakfast on it this morning.


----------



## slwiser

This amp temp is has not been my experience and I have charged it a couple of times not bothering about the battery memory since these batteries are not supposed to have that issue.


----------



## qusp

oh I know these batteries arent supposed to have thus issue, that has nothing to do with it (although I did run it down a fair bit the first time to be safe, it still wasnt low or at least no indication it was), but this heat is odd, I have had class D power amps that dont get this hot. the charger pack gets really hot too, although this is not so unusual, just strange after that long charging. even this heat although unusual would be OK if at some stage it stopped, but after 12-13hrs it was still going and i'm not even using it, the amp is off. the charger is only specced for 220v (says on the sticker) and we run 240v here in OZ , but I dont think that would be enough for this


----------



## SpudHarris

Mine gets hot also but the battery charge light did go out after about 6 hours.

 If Ryuzoh would be so kind as to explain 1,2 and 3 switch on the rear It would be appreciated. The only one I'm sure of is number two which would seem to be 'off'. Number one and three seem to do the same job (listen and charge) allbeit with different voltage noted


----------



## jamato8

Ever since I got the JH13's I have rarely used the Ultrasone Ed. 9's. Not that they weren't, aren't good but the 13's just excel. I am finding that with the fi.Q the 9's really shine and frankly, a whole new dimension opens with them. I am now using the Ed. 9 quite a bit again. They sound like an open phone but with the quality I have always liked about them. Interesting. 

 I just switched to the wide bandwidth for the buffers and notice an increase in dynamics. I am using a lower volume because the swing in both macro and micro detail and dynamics is more noticeable. This is with one buffer as I am going to keep this amp totally stock at this time.


----------



## SpudHarris

Damn I stacked all mine so can't use wide bandwidth. have to order some more BUF634's.


----------



## jamato8

I am not sure why unless the wattage of the 200 ohm resistor isn't great enough. I have used two buf634 stacked with no resistor (a trace vs using a resistor to bias them), and though they ran hot, and I wasn't sure how they would do thermally, they worked fine. This was in a Little Dot Micro Tube amp that I had. 

 I think the Ultrasone Ed. 9's do better with a SS amp vs a tube. Interesting as my JH13's sound excellent with the Woo 6 with my PDPS. I will have to give them more of a listen now with the fi.Q. I have the TWag cable for the 13's and it should be totally burned in now.

 Edit: The 13's are sounding great with this configuration also. lol


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I think the Ultrasone Ed. 9's do better with a SS amp vs a tube.
_

 

I sure have been enjoying my E9s with it...It might just have as much synergy as my HA-02 and the HA-02 is great with the E9.


----------



## jamato8

My Woo 6 (many modifications) has been compared to 2000 dollar amps and been right there in sound. Now I am comparing the fi.Q to my Woo 6. I need more time on the fi.Q but it is doing well.

 Ok I am now using the HD650's, which are''t my favorite phones but the fi.Q is handling them well. Nice soundstage and the bass is very well controlled. Very nice mids and extended upper frequencies that are clean.


----------



## qusp

flipped the wide band switch on the BUF634 (u underneath and P up top) and I nolonger have to have the amp in high gain to enjoy the LME49720HA. now i'm undecided if I like OPA211 underneath and buf634 up top with OPA827 in amp or stacked buf634 in hiC with the national metal can. sooo many choices, but at this stage i'm not that keen on 4 channel still. I want to find out if this heat is normal before I mod the amp further, I wonder it the secondaries in the transformer are set up for 240v (in series) or not. from the glance I had I think they were. in other words I wonder if iBasso remembered this was going to OZ and wired it accordingly. if the PSU is still set for 120v this wou;ld explain the heat for both myself, theory87 and nigel as we are all in countries that run a higher voltage. easy for me to check, but I have some work to do first


----------



## madwolf

Just confirm with some retail shops here in Singapore that some Japanese (ryuzoh) have purchase all the 16V Black gates, a few days ago. 

 Wow it does seem harder to get hold of Black Gates now. 
 Sorry to hijack this thread


----------



## qusp

sorry but I realy dont see what all the fuss is about. the only blackgates that are any good IMO are the N series and some F; standard series are bettered by many other MUCH cheaper caps. I prefer some other caps to N series as well. of course its all a matter of taste and BG have a reputation that precedes them.


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_flipped the wide band switch on the BUF634 (u underneath and P up top) and I nolonger have to have the amp in high gain to enjoy the LME49720HA. now i'm undecided if I like OPA211 underneath and buf634 up top with OPA827 in amp or stacked buf634 in hiC with the national metal can. sooo many choices, but at this stage i'm not that keen on 4 channel still. I want to find out if this heat is normal before I mod the amp further, I wonder it the secondaries in the transformer are set up for 240v (in series) or not. from the glance I had I think they were. in other words I wonder if iBasso remembered this was going to OZ and wired it accordingly. if the PSU is still set for 120v this wou;ld explain the heat for both myself, theory87 and nigel as we are all in countries that run a higher voltage. easy for me to check, but I have some work to do first_

 

Hey Jeremy, glad to here you are enjoying it also....

 Are you using the wideband switch with stacked buffers or singles? I haven't tried that switch at all yet but just found 2 x BUF634U's in one of my boxes and thought I'd put them on an adapter and try it today. I don't have any underneath yet.

 My choice for Ground is the 47910HA also....


----------



## T.IIZUKA

*Overheating matter. *

 The charge doesn't end, and the charge stop voltage has gone mad to fi.Quest that overheats with orange LED lights. 
 (IBasso is a mistake of the adjustment. )

 An original final voltage is 16.8V. The battery longevity is shortened because it is not correctly set. 

*Work before it adjusts it*

 DC unplugs at once. 
 The battery is driven and electricity is discharged for about one hour. 
 (SW1 is turned on, and current consumption is increased. )

 After electricity is discharged, it is necessary to readjust. 

 Please confirm the both ends voltage of the battery decreased up to about 16V.

*Adjusting method*


Black Hot Bond is removed.
Pot for the adjustment is anti-clockwise rotated and it makes it to minimum value.
The DC plug is connected.
Pot is slowly rotated clockwise, and it is confirmed that charge LED lit. 
The connector terminal both ends voltage when the battery is connected is adjusted to become 16.65V. 
 (The standard is about 45 degrees from the center. )
It is confirmed that LED disappeared from a little waiting (The standard is 15 minutes).
The terminal at both ends is measured again and when it is OK by about 16.8V, it seals it with Hot Bond again.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wow this amp gets HOT!! when charging. I just put it on 'charge and isolated' before going to bed and its now 10:30 am and it was still piping hot 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 shouldnt this have become fully charged and cooled down/stopped charging by now? its been on charge for about 9hrs and the battery warning light wasnt on when I plugged it in last night. how long does it take to charge from empty Ryuzoh?_


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey Jeremy, glad to here you are enjoying it also....

 Are you using the wideband switch with stacked buffers or singles? I haven't tried that switch at all yet but just found 2 x BUF634U's in one of my boxes and thought I'd put them on an adapter and try it today. I don't have any underneath yet.

 My choice for Ground is the 47910HA also...._

 

i'm using the wideband (hiC) switch ON with stacked buffers, but they are not literally stacked so no overheating issues. i'm using BUF634P on top and BUF634U underneath. 

 hmmmm; I knew something was wrong and this heat was not normal.


----------



## T.IIZUKA

Case of charge circuit adjustment. 

 When it overheats, please adjust. 
 When you cannot adjust, the time where charge ends, please discontinue battery charge. 

 Please wait *official* reply already a little. 

 I am the volunteer.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *T.IIZUKA* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Case of charge circuit adjustment. 

 When it overheats, please adjust. 
 When you cannot adjust, the time where charge ends, please discontinue battery charge. 

 Please wait *official* reply already a little. 

*I am the volunteer.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


*_

 

hehe OK, please forward my PM onto Ryuzoh then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 or if you like I will

 it would be helpful to others to know how long the battery charge would take under NORMAL circumstance


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *T.IIZUKA* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Case of charge circuit adjustment. 

 When it overheats, please adjust. 
 When you cannot adjust, the time where charge ends, please discontinue battery charge. 

 Please wait *official* reply already a little. 

 I am the volunteer.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

Thank you for picking up the baton so to speak......

 Is this a common issue as although mine gets hot whilst charging the orange LED does go off. Haven't checked to see if it is still hot when this has happened though so will do so this evening.

 I really would like an explaination of ALL the switches, both inside and out.


----------



## qusp

Nigel, from my understanding its an issue of the pot (varistor) in the charge circuit that sets the charging voltage/threshold being set at the wrong voltage, so the battery never reaches the point where it thinks its fully charged and stops charging because its above the rated maximum capacity for the cells. it is normal for a battery to be warm and yes even kinda hot for a little while when charging, but it should reach a point where it is charged and stop. in this case the circuit is set to wait for a voltage that it will never actually get to (probably too high), so it will be forever trying to get to that voltage. I think your amp is fine because it reaches that point, it realizes it has reached that point, stops the charging process and turns off the LED. in other words its doing what its designed to do. of course i'll wait for Ryuzoh's post as well, but thats my understanding of the situation. unfortunately I simply dont have time for doing this at the moment so its going on the shelf. i'll use it for a couple more hours to get it down to close to the 16v needed to start the 'MOD' and i'll leave it there until I can do something about it in the next few days.


----------



## SpudHarris

Mine gets extremely hot when listening with the charging going on also but I don't do that often so it's no biggie. I would however like to get to the bottom of the switch uses. Inside ther are 2 'blocks' which I assume do the same function but for Buffer section and then ground. I knocked up a couple of Buf634U's on adapters and switched on number 1 but unless it needs further listening I couldn't tell any difference.

 The switch issue is beginning to bug me somewhat....I've read details on page 5 but that doesn't explain the rear switches.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mine gets extremely hot when listening with the charging going on also but I don't do that often so it's no biggie. I would however like to get to the bottom of the switch uses. Inside ther are 2 'blocks' which I assume do the same function but for Buffer section and then ground. I knocked up a couple of Buf634U's on adapters and switched on number 2 switch but unless it needs further listening I couldn't tell any difference.

 The switch issue is beginning to bug me somewhat...._

 

they dont do the same for both, there is no benefit to being able to decide what percentage of feedback to place on ground like you can with the buffers. I cant say what they all do either though mate, but that wouldnt make sense. i'll go back through and have a look. I think they have actually been explained, but never in any comprehensive way and never at the same time. there have been 2 posts about the switches

 edit: just went back and yeah only the left side was explained. the ground side wasnt. the HiC resistor pad for ground isnt populated in stock form though, so yeah some sort of explanation would be appreciated. I have bigger issues. anyway i'm off to work at 1.30am, will touch base tomorrow some time


----------



## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *T.IIZUKA* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Case of charge circuit adjustment. 

 When it overheats, please adjust. 
 When you cannot adjust, the time where charge ends, please discontinue battery charge. 

 Please wait *official* reply already a little. 

 I am the volunteer.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I pictorial steps on how to do it or video will be good


----------



## qusp

theory87, do you kow how to adjust a regulated power supply that uses a pot?? that is exactly what we are doing.


----------



## SpudHarris

I'm not on the same page as you Jeremy regards my electronics ability (although, contrary to popular belief I am quite good with the old Soldering Iron 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 hehe) and I recon there will be quite a few people not up to the task of completing this mod themselves either. I'm anxious to see how this bottoms out.


----------



## qusp

hmm I dont know how to comment on that without sounding conceited 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 i'm not that far ahead here either mate. i've only really started building and understanding more comprehensive circuits in the last 6 months or so. cables are another thing entirely and in many cases its more of an artisan profession with a technical grounding. of course some cables have high technical merit also. in a lot of cases lately, because i've been pushing my own boundaries with my own personal projects and in my endless search for learning, I dont entirely understand the intricacies of the circuit i'm building either, although I make an effort to rather than simply painting by numbers. I do however tend to know how they interact with each other, the purpose of each module and i'm pretty decent with a soldering iron. most of all though i'm pretty fearless, which is not to be understated when soldering at this level. not everyone should be expected to be able to take this on, nor should they think they have to. I doubt they will be and if need be i'll help out where I can. at least this first round is still a community project and should be treated as such. I dont have a hot melt gun though and I think this amp even under normal operation would be unsuitable for hot glue because of the temp it runs at. i'm not keen on buying tools I wouldnt need otherwise

 I think it should be noted that although I am not the only one effected; I was the only person quoted in the response from T.IIZUKA, as he rightly assumed I was interested in this information and would not shy away from taking it on myself. this should not be taken as what is expected of everyone. for that we await the response from Ryuzoh on the matter......


----------



## jamato8

To really understand what is going on here you either have a schematic and can read it, backward engineer to draw one or the layout is fairly simple. I have built equipment from my own design but again you have to have a starting point and with mine I drew out a schematic and so on. Since my unit does not get hot, as stated a little earlier, it boils down to adjusting the reference voltage. Once the method needed to do this is explained the problem should be solved. Knowing the exact implementation of the rear switch will be of value. It would appear as other have stated that 2 is battery only and no charging and 1 is charge but are you running from the external supply and charging the battery? It would seem that if you are running at 24 volts then you are running the unit from the external supply and charging/topping off the batteries. Now position 3, which puts out 16.8 volts. I am not sure exactly how this is working. 

 I would imagine Ryuzoh will interject here soon.


----------



## SpudHarris

Lets hope so...


----------



## qusp

true a schematic would be of great value...... and I think essential for a product built in this spirit.

 the switches on the back I would love to know as well; but they should not have any bearing on this problem. the batteries should be charged using one reference and one reference only, no matter what is going on with the amp. I had the switch on 1 for the entire time and I never used the amp while charging, although I do plan to use this functionality to take advantage of 24v sometimes.



 if something happens please someone PM me; I dont like getting updates with every post but I really must get some work done.


----------



## jamato8

Well we could always disconnect the battery and that will tell you if you are running form the power supply or the batteries. But I agree, the switch will not tell us about the charging problem.

 Strange I added an edit a while ago but it didn't take then I answered an email in the in box and it failed. ?

 Again edit: I disconnected the battery but the amp runs from all three positions on the rear switch when plugged in but no battery. I could measure the voltage at the opamp but it doesn't matter. I just want to know for sure what they do.


----------



## qusp

indeed Jon, 'we' could hehe if I am driven to find out what 3 means I may just do that. it could be of some use if you were trying out combinations and wanted to know what sort of battery drain you had against a finite and known battery voltage?? I dunno, that logic could be totally flawed. i'm totally shooting from the hip there


----------



## ryuzoh

First, sorry for coming back after a long while....
 I'm currently pressed modding fi.Qs and also solving any problems with them
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *madwolf* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just confirm with some retail shops here in Singapore that some Japanese (ryuzoh) have purchase *all the 16V Black gates*, a few days ago. 

 Wow it does seem harder to get hold of Black Gates now. 
 Sorry to hijack this thread_

 

What....I've never been in Singapore
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Also my friend just had a opportunity to get there, then I asked him to buy some BGs from the shop, but he said no NX and FK there...
 There had a few of STD4700, STD47.....why didn't you have them safekeeping before you complain here if you really need them?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mine gets hot also but the battery charge light did go out after about 6 hours.

 If Ryuzoh would be so kind as to explain 1,2 and 3 switch on the rear It would be appreciated. The only one I'm sure of is number two which would seem to be 'off'. Number one and three seem to do the same job (listen and charge) allbeit with different voltage noted 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

See early OEM thread first.
 1 as running with 24V supply from PSU, and *ALSO charging* with 16.8V to battery.
 2 as running with 24V supply from PSU, and *NOT charging* to battery. 
 In other words, *when choosing 2, orange LED will never light*. 
 3 as running with 16.8V supply via regulator, and *ALSO charging * to battery.
*When choosing 3, Orange LED will never die.*
 If you disconnect 24V DC plug from this amp with every position on rear switch, the amp will automatically run with internal power with 16.8V.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hehe OK, please forward my PM onto Ryuzoh then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 or if you like I will

 it would be helpful to others to know how long the battery charge would take under NORMAL circumstance_

 

I already know this issue and I can let you know how to solve with pics.
 I'm making the images, please wait for a while.

 Jeremy, appreciating for your assistance and I already notified Japanese users and iBasso.


----------



## slwiser

Ryuzoh

 Maybe I don't know what I am talking about but for myself my iBasso seems to have no issues with the power supply. 

 Back to how it sounds and using Ultrasone Edition 9s:

 Fantastic to me, if I were not listening to it I would not believe it.

 Gain on low provides little or no bass boast to me.
 Gain on middle or high the bass seems to come more alive in the effect.

 Holographic sound all around, with detail and precision of location.

 Given my preference to move around I sure am enjoying this higher end sound without having to be located just at my computer.

 To others with higher end portable/transportables how is the Fi.Q coming along for you in comparison.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Maybe I don't know what I am talking about but for myself my iBasso seems to have no issues with the power supply._

 

Oops, my quotation mistake...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This amp temp is has not been my experience and I have charged it a couple of times not bothering about the battery memory since these batteries are not supposed to have that issue._

 

I just want to say, You're so lucky guy
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





...
 My all fi.Qs were having this over charging problem, and they bothered me during Sunday.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just want to say, You're so lucky guy
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




..._

 

Yes, I am fortunate in many ways.


----------



## SpudHarris

Ryuzoh, mine is also *NOT* over charging 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but does get hot when listening with the PSU.

 I feel for you......


----------



## SpudHarris

Edit: Thought mine was playing up but it's fine. I'm a very happy boy!!

 Apologies Ryuzoh - YGPM


----------



## jamato8

So does this appear to be a problem with the 220 volt units vs the 110 (actual voltage here in the US is around 122 volts)? Mine charges correctly and gets warm but that is expected, nothing more than warm.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryuzoh, mine is also *NOT* over charging 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 but does get hot when listening with the PSU.

 I feel for you......_

 

Very good, and relieved.
 Then had you removed R20 already?
Attachment 24095
 This updating will reduce hiss when 4ch architecture applied.

 Well...writing down how to adjust charging voltage.
 Then see pics below. 




 Measure voltage btwn plus and minus in this, and if battery voltage exceeds more than 16.85V, required to be adjusted.


 1. Remove covering on pot, and *disconnect DC plug*.
 2. Run the amp just for a while and to discharge battery
 (recommending SW1 ON to increase current consumption).
 3. Choose rear switch as *1* and *connect DC plug*.





 4. After confirming the voltage as 16V approximately, rotate the pot counterclockwise.
 Then you can see orange LED dying.
 5. And set minimum once and slowly rotate clockwise again.
 You'll see orange LED lights again.
 Set to aiming point as in the image above temporarily, and monitor the voltage every 15 minutes.
 6. When orange LED dying, see the voltage.
 If not the voltage reached 16.75V, you should *very slightly* rotate the pot clockwise. 
 7. If the voltage exceeds 16.8V with orange LED lighting, you should rotate the pot counterclockwise *very slightly*.
 8. Repeat 6 and 7.
 9. Put the covering onto the pot and warm with heat gun or hair dryer to fix position and seal.

 Just do it.....


----------



## jamato8

Ryuzoh, thanks for the great instructions!

 Interesting. I had mine in 4 channel and the bass was fine with the Edition 9 and Grado HF2 but with with my JH13's, gone. Like from 60 hz down, almost nothing. Then I switched to 3 channel and everything is there. Strange interaction. I compared with different amps and got bass on the 13's so I figured there was something strange going on with the 4 channel and the 13's. At first the bass was fine so this is a puzzle to me. 

 What opamp or buffer are all of you using when you are in 4 channel? 

 Any combinations that really do it for you? They all sound good to me but sometimes there is that something extra like the 1929 mesh plate 27 tube, for me. :^)


----------



## T.IIZUKA

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryuzoh, thanks for the great instructions!_

 

x2


----------



## theory_87

ryuzoh, is it a must to seal?


----------



## T.IIZUKA

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ryuzoh, is it a must to seal?_

 

I think that you should do the seal if it carries. 
 It is likely to move because of the vibration.


----------



## qusp

I didnt realize it was reusable. no problem then, i'll just use my old gas iron tyhat has been relegated mainly to this type of thing since getting the hakko.

 thanks for the clarification Ryuzoh, it is as easy as it sounded. I was going to go through this thread and compile all the snippets of info and pictures into a PDF and post it here; would people like me to do this?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 thanks for the clarification Ryuzoh, it is as easy as it sounded. I was going to go through this thread and compile all the snippets of info and pictures into a PDF and post it here; would people like me to do this?_

 

That would be great and maybe have a note in the title on the first page about page number for full instructions.


----------



## qusp

OK, i'll try to do that overnight, but more likely in my self designated lunch/research break tomorrow. perhaps if people wanted to prompt Ryuzoh for a few more snippets so I can add them it would be wise to do it now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 just ordered some new chips as well. samples yay! hey its an OEM product 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and I do buy craploads from them as well. I couldnt bring myself to include BUF634 for a second time; especially since I will end up using the discrete units I reckon anyway. its not a total farce either; I do indeed have [plans for a portable product and this is all R&D for it. whether I end up making a commercial product or simply an indulgent toy is another thing entirely and will depend on the result I guess 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 so without a schematic i'm going to assume (I hate doing that) that the buffers in the FiQuest are wired as part of the opamp's feedback for current gain? rather than as a buffer/driver stage?? this will make a difference to the way I implement the buffers as far as injecting bias current. I can simply drop them in as a direct replacement for BUF634, but I would prefer to know what I am doing in doing so.


----------



## SpudHarris

I know Jon has been using BUF634's with the wide bandwidth switch to good effect, has anyone else tried it? I have some BUF634U's on adapters and flicking that switch seems to make no difference at all. Yet when I put them in my own adapters (DIP Socket with 220R across 1-4 pins) I can tell a difference 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Would still like to know the functions of *''Both''* blocks of switches.....


----------



## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I didnt realize it was reusable. no problem then, i'll just use my old gas iron tyhat has been relegated mainly to this type of thing since getting the hakko.

 thanks for the clarification Ryuzoh, it is as easy as it sounded. I was going to go through this thread and compile all the snippets of info and pictures into a PDF and post it here; would people like me to do this?_

 

Do let me know when done. I will edit my 1st post accordingly.


----------



## qusp

sure, going to bed now, its 4:30am will get it done some time mid/late afternoon (my lunchtime :S) so yeah like I said you guys pummel Ryuzoh with questions and hopefully I can include his answers in the PDF 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 only half kidding (sorry Ryuzoh)


----------



## jamato8

I was at work today so no listening, well that is life. I haven't really heard the amp for 24 hours but leave music running. Wow, what a sound. I can tell the amp is settling in now. Again very fast but there is even more transparency now. Excellent. This has to be one of the fastest amps I have every heard.


----------



## qusp

I'm having the beginnings of that myself. because of the charging problem I havent been burning it in at all apart from during my usage of it. i've been using it a fair bit though; so I figure i'm sitting at about 40hrs and things are starting to settle in and open up nicely, pity thats all about to change though with the new caps. I would agree with your assessment of the speed Jon


----------



## qusp

ok guys i'm just finishing off a little work and i'll get on it. sorry bout the delay


----------



## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was at work today so no listening, well that is life. I haven't really heard the amp for 24 hours but leave music running. Wow, what a sound. I can tell the amp is settling in now. Again very fast but there is even more transparency now. Excellent. This has to be one of the fastest amps I have every heard._

 

I have not listen to mine for 64h straight. It burning in all this time. My T1 and reshell sf5eb should be back next week for me for me to enjoy


----------



## qusp

ok guys i'm pretty much done for the day; will do this PDF now. just soldered up some AD797 on adapters with silver pins 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 love these little adapter PCBs, have to buy some more. you buy them just as a little circuit board and you can either use those adapters with pins that go both directions like in my pics on previous pages; or you can use whichever wire you like meaning you can not only use high quality wire for pins, but you have also have bendy pins so they can fit in spaces you cant normally fit. 

 hang on theory87, have you done the regulator mod yet? burning in for 64hrs straight with that reg set wrong could be pretty unhealthy for the battery!!


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## slwiser

I am not much of a DIY'er at all so this whole thread is something of a mystery to me. 

 Instructions in detail might make me more able to change things but this is not for certain. 

 I opened up my default version this morning and took some pictures. I noticed that SW2 was off instead of the recommended ON position. I did change that. 

 WOW...how are you guys fitting those extra components inside this box? It is tight in there!

 If I change out the default opamp to the AD797 do I have to change any caps/resistors? 

 If I change out the default opamp to xxx do I have to change the xx cap and/or yy resistors?

 A couple of pages back I ask about a couple of opamps being direct replacements but even this might not be true from the reading I have been doing, so it follows my questions above. To me it looks like you guys are actually changing the circuit on the board with some of the resistors and adding caps. Is this correct?

 None of this is clear in the above posts to me.


----------



## SpudHarris

I have just put AD797's in mine and they are veeeeery nice. You don't have to change anything at all to use these....... However I do find an improvement on class a adapters (2.2k resistor between pins 6-7).

 The beauty of this amp is non modders can leave as is and it is absolutely brilliant in it's basic form. Others inclined will mod till their hearts content to get that little bit extra, I'm a little in btween the two so will leave it a few months messing with just opamps and buffers then get Ryuzoh to maxx it out when he has the time.

 I have had great results with AD797's - OPA827's - ADA4627-1's and both stacked and Hi-C buffers. 

 Drop in the 797's observing the correct orientation and enjoy, I've had the 797's for ages but never had them sound this good


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I have had great results with AD797's - OPA827's - ADA4627-1's and both stacked and Hi-C buffers. _

 

Can you tell me what other opamps are direct drop in replacements? Buffers?


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am not much of a DIY'er at all so this whole thread is something of a mystery to me._

 

hmm well you jumped in the deep end then a bit didnt you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 for sure this amp sounds good as it is, but the strength of it is its flexibility and at least half the fun is in being able to make it your own. its unlikely you will do any damage provided you try not to do anything that is too far outside your comfort zone.

  Quote:


 Instructions in detail might make me more able to change things but this is not for certain. 
 

well i've collected the posts that I felt were relevant and all the ones that contained definitive statements; but you will NEVER get a fully comprehensive set of instructions for this amp, because the whole point is to mix and match components to taste; some mods will be radical and some are as simple as swapping out an opamp.

  Quote:


 I opened up my default version this morning and took some pictures. I noticed that SW2 was off instead of the recommended ON position. I did change that. 
 

yes, the amp came the same to everyone, as far as switches, but not exactly as Ryuzohs personal recommendation (which again is not a hard and fast rule)

  Quote:


 WOW...how are you guys fitting those extra components inside this box? It is tight in there! 
 

lol yeah i'm putting craploads in there; this amp is downright roomy compared to many I have worked with. 

  Quote:


 If I change out the default opamp to the AD797 do I have to change any caps/resistors? 
 

no, you dont have to, the 797 is a little picky though, so you might have to play with JP1 and/or JP2, the AD797 is a bit picky and can be too sensitive for some circuits. i'll be trying 797 tomorrow in this amp, so will let you know how I go if you like. or you could give it a try yourself. it will not do any damage, but may not perform at its best without this setting.* you do not have to change any caps for any opamp*

  Quote:


 If I change out the default opamp to xxx do I have to change the xx cap and/or yy resistors? 
 

lol, thats a bit of a broad question; no caps need changing to use ANY opamps, but some opamps will perform better with local bypassing of the power supply and the inputs/outputs. but this is NOT compulsory.

  Quote:


 A couple of pages back I ask about a couple of opamps being direct replacements but even this might not be true from the reading I have been doing, so it follows my questions above. 
 

 this again is a very broad statement (not really a question) this amp will take any audio opamp that falls within its parameters ie supply voltage min/max, channels min/max (it will take single or dual in the amp position, single buffers and single ground)

  Quote:


 To me it looks like you guys are actually changing the circuit on the board with some of the resistors and adding caps. Is this correct? 
 

not so much changing as modifying/tuning. i'll start with opamps. every opamp has pins that are not used for audio input or output, you can change the performance of the opamp by presenting these pins with a specific resistance, communicating with it if you will. in the case of buffers this may increase the amount of feedback and therefore gain/power. also there are some amazing sounding, but 'cranky' opamps that need to be babied in order to remain stable. these pads help with that.

 in the developers notes (datasheet) of every opamp there will be a section showing conditions the particular chip thrives in, or ways to change the performance in other ways. sometimes this will involve placing a resistor or cap within a specific range in very close proximity to the pins; this is what the pads on the underside of the opamp and buffer sockets are for. one value may work well for one chip, but not so well for another.

 now for caps, the positions that are empty in your amp are ready and waiting for added caps, they are not compulsory, but ways to improve or simply change performance to something more suitable to your purpose or tastes.

 the power and awesomeness of this amp is it is has all of this flexibility right there ready and waiting and it has the power to take advantage of a wide range of chips. and even if you dont believe it; there is plenty of room to play with.

 so in short; yes we are changing the circuit, thats what this amp is all about. it sounds great as it is and you can take things as easy or as far as you like. i'll be taking a fairly extreme view 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 None of this is clear in the above posts to me. 
 

well although it may not have been all laid out in one place in plain language and since this amp is available for sale without warning to anyone, that could have been handled a little better as far as documentation, but there are simply so many options it would be a big task to make a traditional manual as such. (which is what i'm trying to do) it HAS been at the heart of the concept of the amp since the very beginning. its like P3+ squared.

 the lines of this amp are kinda blury and that is the power of it, so it will be a work in progress; noone knows what the 'best' combination will be and as with all things to do with taste; there never will be, but a knowledge base will over time take shape.

 just enjoy the ride 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 hope that helps, it will probably raise some questions as many as it answers maybe, but I hope I havent just scared you hehe


----------



## SpudHarris

A very comprehensive response Jeremy, please read below my far more detailed and articulate response that was posted at the same time as yours but unfortunately posted 2nd for some strange reason 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well I'm not experienced as some but this version of the Fi-Q will accept OPA637's (not in low gain) so it must be fairly stable I would say. I'm sure others will chime in with no go's (maybe LT1463's for instance). 

 Buffer wise I haven't got anywhere with the internal switch for wide bandwidth so have been using my own Hi-C adapters for BUF634's, stacked BUF634's are also very good. I've kinda settled on a LME49710 in ground and set the jumper for 4 channel although that does give a bit of hiss....


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you tell me what other opamps are direct drop in replacements? Buffers?_

 

hehe no way can we do that; there are literally thousands; hell maybe milions of chips that will work in this 

 the best buffers that arent specifically built for the job ie. opamps. are what is called rail to rail type opamps and if it is also unity-gain stable thats a bonus, make sure that any opamp or buffer you use in either position is able to withstand the current in this amp (minimums will be covered almost without exception, but look out you arent going over the maximum). look up the datasheet and see that the minimum voltage and maximum voltage are within range.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was at work today so no listening, well that is life. I haven't really heard the amp for 24 hours but leave music running. Wow, what a sound. I can tell the amp is settling in now. Again very fast but there is even more transparency now. Excellent. This has to be one of the fastest amps I have every heard._

 

C'est la vie.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ok guys i'm pretty much done for the day; will do this PDF now. just soldered up some AD797 on adapters with silver pins 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

With AD797s, JP1 and JP2 should be connected.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have not listen to mine for 64h straight. It burning in all this time. My T1 and reshell sf5eb should be back next week for me for me to enjoy_

 

Had you made a short on R20?
 It let the amp less hiss.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_WOW...how are you guys fitting those extra components inside this box? It is tight in there!_

 

Yes, I really astonished qusp's hard work....

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I change out the default opamp to the AD797 do I have to change any caps/resistors?
 If I change out the default opamp to xxx do I have to change the xx cap and/or yy resistors?_

 

Yes, as I said above, JP1 and JP2 should be connected.
 Very easy to solder to make a jump
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 As for LT1028(A)CN, LT1115CN, also should be applied, and SW2 must be ON.
 Gorge of their phase margin makes the instability around 1.1MHz.

 The cause of the hiss is difference of input voltage btwn LT1210 and G_CH OPAMP.
 Getting rid of R20 and jumpering can achieve to vanish it.
 All fi.Qs should be applied


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have had great results with AD797's - *OPA827's *- ADA4627-1's and both stacked and Hi-C buffers. 
_

 

lol and he finally starts to call it by its real name 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I havent bothered to mention it, because I thought perhaps you just liked AD827 heaps, but yeah man!! OPA827 rule in this amp!! i'm gonna drop in the compensated AZW797 in a minute. I dont know about class A. I really dont think its going to be much bnefit in this amp except for with old chips. you hear what yo hear though; I cant argue with that. the opamps should already be operating in class A in many cases in this amp


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_C'est la vie.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 With AD797s, JP1 and JP2 should be connected.


 Had you made a short on R20?
 It let the amp less hiss.


 Yes, I really astonished qusp's hard work....


*Yes, as I said above, JP1 and JP2 should be connected.
 Very easy to solder to make a jump
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 As for LT1028(A)CN, LT1115CN, also should be applied, and SW2 must be ON.
 Gorge of their phase margin makes the instability around 1.1MHz.

 The cause of the hiss is difference of input voltage btwn LT1210 and G_CH OPAMP.
 Getting rid of R20 and jumpering can achieve to vanish it.
 All fi.Qs should be applied
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


*_

 

I knew there was something else to this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 excellent I have something more to put in the PDF. there has been secret squirrels going on with the LT1210 business for days, I knew it couldnt just be to improve 4 channel operation


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I knew there was something else to this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 excellent I have something more to put in the PDF. there has been secret squirrels going on with the LT1210 business for days, I knew it couldnt just be to improve 4 channel operation_

 

OK, lookin' forward to see it


----------



## qusp

its just going to be like a compilation; 'ryuzohs greatest hits' 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 i've got all the info together in an indesign file, but I must sleep now and put the PDF together in the morning. I may add a few bits of my own and many other members have had something useful to say that I will add; I wil get some feedback from you guys as to anything that could be added or removed to make it more effective/complete. I dont have the knowledge of this amp to have anything truly insightful to say about its circuit. just putting all the info in the one place.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_its just going to be like a compilation; 'ryuzohs greatest hits' 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 i've got all the info together in an indesign file, but I must sleep now and put the PDF together in the morning. I may add a few bits of my own and many other members have had something useful to say that I will add; I wil get some feedback from you guys as to anything that could be added or removed to make it more effective/complete. I dont have the knowledge of this amp to have anything truly insightful to say about its circuit. just putting all the info in the one place._

 

Haha, OK, I can accept .indd files
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Appreciating your great works, Jeremy...and take your health also


----------



## SpudHarris

Ryuzoh, I have removed & jumpered R20 and this works very well so thanks for that.

 However I do have an issue regards the jumpers mentioned for using AD797's etc... As you know I am a fan of OPA637's and in an earlier post you specifically told me not to use these jumpers if using the 637's, that't correct isn't it? So do I absolutely need to jumper these if using the AD797's? because I love both opamps. Have I got to choose between the OPA637's and the AD797's?

 A swift reply would be great as I have my soldering iron hot


----------



## qusp

solder bridges are not permanent Nigel

 no problem Ryuzoh, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have been accurately called obsessive before. you are right about me needing sleep though. solder is forming my diet and JH13 fused to ears. speak soon. muuuuuussstt.......zzzzzzz.....sssslleepp..sugslkm akn./sihknas................


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As you know I am a fan of OPA637's and in an earlier post you specifically told me not to use these jumpers if using the 637's, that't correct isn't it? So do I absolutely need to jumper these if using the AD797's?_

 

I reminded you love them both...
 However I can't say that you need not keep your iron hot
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Then observed with my AD797ANZs and unjumpered fi.Q, actually I saw 6.25MHz ringings on my oscilloscope.
 So I can say just jumper JP1 and JP2 when you use 797s, and unsolder there when 637s.
 The reason why is....they are too sensitive, so that they always require bandwidth limiting as 220pF grounding before signal enters them.


----------



## SpudHarris

Are there any other opamps affected by jumping JP1 and JP2 apart from the OPA637's? if not I could live with permanent solder bridges. I'm not a fan of desoldering as I haven't found a perfect solution for this yet. 

 I do love the 637's but there are better chips out there so if jumping these two points only limits the use of the 637's I'll do it.

 Thanks Ryuzoh.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are there any other opamps affected by jumping JP1 and JP2 apart from the OPA637's? if not I could live with permanent solder bridges._

 

Then how about OPA211ID, OPA627AP(not BP), ADA4627-1ARZ, AD843KN, OPA2111KP...??
 But I can tell you that you may say "I don't need anything but 637 with BGs....".
 IMO you'll conclude as above
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 And also you'll rush to buy used E9....


----------



## SpudHarris

Oh man now I'm a bit confused 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If I jumper JP1 and JP2 to use AD797's will it affect my other favourite chips (apart from OPA637) like OPA827 - OPA2111KP - ADA4627 - AD712 - LT1363 - AD827 - LT1677 - OPA1611 or will these still be ok?

 Sorry to be a pain but 2 further questions:

 a) What happens if I don't bridge JP1 and JP2 and I use AD797's?
 b) What have you found to be the best chip for Ground?

 Thanks Ryuzoh....


----------



## ryuzoh

Of course the chips are unity-gain-stable, no problems will occur.

 a) Will oscillate with mid-low gain position.
 b) My best is BUF634 with 100 ohms on R19.
 Also usual OPAMPs could not output much currents, the choice will be easily defined in most of cases.
 But actually this amp is also having resistor splitter on GND, that will compensate currents.
 Well, other my recommendations are OPA134PA, AD8610ARZ, OPA627AP, OPA131KP, OPA211ID.


----------



## qusp

Nigel; there is a big difference between desoldering something and removing a solder bridge. because there is nothing for the solder to stick to in the middle of the bridge it will simply ball up and stick to your iron and there will be 2 small solder bumps on the pads. I suppose you could install some sort of pin header or similar like a 2 pin slice of a socket and simply use a small piece of wire to create the bridge. thought about doing this myself so I can make the change anywhere not just at home.


----------



## SpudHarris

.


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 a) Will oscillate with mid-low gain position.

 b) My best is BUF634 with 100 ohms on R19.

 Well, other my recommendations are OPA134PA, AD8610ARZ, OPA627AP, OPA131KP, OPA211ID._

 


 Thanks Ryuzoh and Jeremy,

 The only thing that I don't know for sure is the operation of the 1-2 switches next to ground, I assume one of which will be for R19 resister which at present is uninstalled. Can we get a clarification of the exact function of these switches?

 @Ryuzoh
 a) So is it ok with high gain without jumping JP1-JP2?

 b) So this is like Hi-C?

 The other recommendations are they for L/R or Ground?

 I've ordered OPA134PA and have all the others apart from OPA131KP. I can't get 'KP' only 'U' will this be OK also?


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks Ryuzoh and Jeremy,_

 

no problem Nigel

  Quote:


 The only thing that I don't know for sure is the operation of the 1-2 switches next to ground, I assume one of which will be for R19 resister which at present is uninstalled. Can we get a clarification of the exact function of these switches? 
 

yep, would be good so I can add it to the PDF, finishing it off now. sorry guys, got caught up with work

  Quote:


 @Ryuzoh
 a) So is it ok with high gain without jumping JP1-JP2? 
 

arrghh; just do it man, you really have no idea how easy it is to add and remove this bridge. simply apply the iron to one pad to heat it up, feed solder onto it until a small blob starts to form then shift the heat over to the other side, keep feeding and surface tension will ball a bridge across the 2 pads. removing it is as simple as applying a hot tip that has been cleaned of solder; the surface tension will be broken and the solder will stick to the tip. presto its done. there is nothing to stick to in the middle

  Quote:


 b) So this is like Hi-C? 
 

yes similar, HiC for ground. its connected to the component adapter pins, just as with HiC

  Quote:


 The other recommendations are they for L/R or Ground?

 I've ordered OPA134PA and have all the others apart from OPA131KP. I can't get 'KP' only 'U' will this be OK also? 
 

they will be for ground I would think. they are all unity gain stable opamps


 @slwiser

 man, you gotta get that AD797 in there; my god what a combination. AD797 with stacked HiC BUF634 (JP1 and JP2 shorted) and BUF634 in ground this combo is insanely good!! best ive heard this amp yet. its a touch call between this and OPA827, but at least with the electronica (underworld) and ambient (aphex twin) I was listening to on the bus today it was totally blowing my mind with JH13. the bass is soo amazingly taught and textured; soundstage is near perfect, instrument separation is sublime and super-extended yet unfatiguing highs. WOW!! plus the amp is really burning in nicely.

 ok back to the PDF


----------



## SpudHarris

I know I'm a wuss but those pads do look massive under the lens hehe...... I've done it anyhow and am now testing those chips in Ground (liking the OPA211 at the moment - deep, deep bass). Man this amp is something else and I know it's putting the cart before the horse so to speak but I'm enjoying the learning curve..........

 I've asked this elsewhere but not had an answer yet, is there any mileage in getting the BRZ version of the AD797?? I love the ARZ but if there's something better.....


----------



## qusp

OPA211 is a great buffer as well; as is OPA1611 (basically the same chip) i've used it with great success in my D10 before. 

 I havent tried both versions mate. i've got the BRZ though and its superb in this amp

 got my eye on OPA637BM 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 SM is too hard to find and i'm prettuy sure its not worth double the price. the specs actually appear to be slightly in favor of the BM version anyway. only plus I can see with the SM version is being able to use the amp in sub-zero temps or on the surface of the sun (military grade)


----------



## SpudHarris

OK, I'm done for now..........

 The Fi-Q is in it's enclosure and I can't see it coming out for a while. I am running with AD797ARZ's in L/R - BUF634's (Hi-C) and stacked BUF634 in Ground and with this combination I prefer 3 channel set up. This is by far the best combination I have come across and let me tell you I am fast becoming a hermit. All I want to do is listen to my tunes coz now it's apparent that I've never actually heard them properly before 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	














 I have removed and shorted R20 and Shorted both JP1 and JP2 for the AD797's as per Ryuzoh's recommendation. I am a very happy camper


----------



## qusp

now you just need to sort out your source 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 DIYMOD anyone??

 and I agree AD797 is the best I have heard in this amp and I dont think its moving until maybe fitting the burson discrete in there.

 the rest of the amp however will be in a state of flux for a while yet. I have wired up a dip socket with a length of duelund silver foil in silk wire (16AWG equivalent) wrapped around and soldered to all the pins on the bottom and wired this to the star ground point. this way I have easy access for up to 8 pins to ground my buffers and various other things on the top side. the pins on the bottom are wrapped in teflon tape.

 what do your loved ones think of their new (improved?) inebriated, deaf and mute post FiQuest DAD? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 guys dont worry, Nigel and I have exchanged PM's regarding the way the FiQuest has caused us to devolve; he knows i'm at least half kidding


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what do your loved ones think of their new (improved?) inebriated, deaf and mute post FiQuest DAD? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 guys dont worry, Nigel and I have exchanged PM's regarding the way the FiQuest has caused us to devolve; he knows i'm at least half kidding_

 

Haha you cheeky git 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yeah I know about the source and have on many occasions nearly pushed the button on the ALO site. Problem is capacity, I've got about 3 gig free of the 160 and so many albums unchecked in itunes so they don't sync with my pod it's not true.....

 I'm begrudgingly making an effort tonight being as it's New Year, I've got to have a shave, get out of my grubby beer soaked dressing gown, brush my teeth, clip my nails and everything so we can go out with family to celebrate bah..... I'll probably take my 'Man Bag' with the Fi-Q and associated gear and catch a bit of Shpongle in the toilets at some point during the evening (that doesn't sound good does it?) hehe 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Listen, I'm signing off now as I'm out in an hour and the lack of recent grooming means this is gonna take a while. Jeremy & Ryuzoh especially but anyone else who reads this post and has a little smile have a great New Year where ever you may be, next time I post it will be 2010


----------



## jamato8

Ok, I just got off of 3 days of 12 hour shifts so time for a little listening. One thing I can say is that with further listening, I can tell that this amp has continued to mature. I love the space and pace. To my ear, the sound is extremely natural with a fast nature. Yes I have mentioned this before but I figure it bears repeating. :^)

 I notice that I can listen to music either quieter than normal, because the slam is still there or louder because it really can suck you into the musical landscape. 

 I had to adjust my charging today after work. I noticed yesterday that the amp was getting pretty warm and the charging light would not go out. So I measured and got it to extinguish the charging light around 16.74 or .75 and it is fine now. It was working at a higher voltage so it was overcharging the batteries. A simple adjustment actually. Glad we can do it.

 A great new year to those that regard this as the turning of a new one. And to those who don't, have a great one from when yours does. :^)


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Haha you cheeky git 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

you know I AM!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Yeah I know about the source and have on many occasions nearly pushed the button on the ALO site. Problem is capacity, I've got about 3 gig free of the 160 and so many albums unchecked in itunes so they don't sync with my pod it's not true..... 
 

hmmmmm

  Quote:


 I'm begrudgingly making an effort tonight being as it's New Year, I've got to have a shave, get out of my grubby beer soaked dressing gown, brush my teeth, clip my nails and everything so we can go out with family to celebrate bah..... I'll probably take my 'Man Bag' with the Fi-Q and associated gear and catch a bit of Shpongle in the toilets at some point during the evening (that doesn't sound good does it?) hehe 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

LMAO, I read this just before going to bed last night and indeed got a good laugh out of it. but I know its closer to the truth than either of us would like to admit LOL. catching a bit of shpongle in the loo sounds like something that would go down OK in amsterdam, but that we could be arrested for in our respective countries. you know its bad when people in the same house have taken to SMS or Email to communicate with you 

  Quote:


 Listen, I'm signing off now as I'm out in an hour and the lack of recent grooming means this is gonna take a while. Jeremy & Ryuzoh especially but anyone else who reads this post and has a little smile have a great New Year where ever you may be, next time I post it will be 2010 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 

happy new year to you too friend, fireworks in Sydney were the best I have ever seen full stop!! i'm going to pull my finger out to get down there next year; I friend of mine has a boat that he takes out on the harbour. this years firecrackers would hav been superb in that context. I just hope they dont slack off a little next year because its not a decade.

 ok so i've done all the suggested mods, including JP1/2, R20 and even R19 has a TX2575 resistor. adjusted the power supply to 16.51 with the LED out. anything above that and it wasnt getting warm, but the light wasnt going out at 16.79. easy mod guys, just watch it because the ground trace is right next to the battery connector.

 the whole way through this charging the power pack got slightly warm, but the battery and the amp did not break a sweat. thats more like it. the sink on the reg gets quite warm as you would expect.

 so sorry about the slackness on the text. been slacking off a bit slept in today for the first time in ages. so i'll get it finished and laid out properly and posted by tomorrow.

 oh and while I had it open today I tried out the Burson discrete opamp with the amp out of the case. man I gotta find a way to fit this beasty in along with the buffers. the discrete buffers will fit no dramas, but the bursons will take quite a bit of remoddeling. I reckon its doable if when I install all the new caps I lay some down on their side and/or use the smaller Nichicon FG instead of KZ. but that there is a trade-off i'm not sure will be fruitful or not. i'll just have to see. the soundstage with the bursons in this amp has just got to be heard to be believed. havent heard the buffers with new opamps, I dont think I can do both. anyway I guess we'll see.


----------



## jamato8

To keep away from shorting while make the adjustment for the charging just use your probes from above. If you look, you can see that if you have sharp probes, you can make contact with the connector where the wires go into the female end and at the same time it is then easier to use the pot as you are on the same side. I am running mine at 16.79 and all is working well. The light goes out and I have the batteries at 1.39 volts each though they can be charged to 1.42 with no problem.


----------



## slwiser

I just reopened my default Fi.Quest and reset my SW2 back to it's default position. The sound is more to my enjoyment this way. It was a bit to analytical for me not being the default setting.


----------



## jamato8

I have to try the 797. I have the ANZ and AN versions.


----------



## SpudHarris

I only have the ARZ version but may get the BN version if they are worth the price difference. I'm just waiting for answers regarding this...


----------



## jamato8

Oh, I meant ARZ vs ANZ. And did I mean BN? I have to look. lol. Too many opamps. I can't imagine how many Ron, HiFlight has or you guys.

 No, I have the 797AN and I have it on a socket with pins 2 and 7 connected with a pico farad cap.

 I haven't used the Grado HF2 with this fi.Q very much as I am letting it burn in. I am enjoying the JH13's and the Ed. 9 very much but now I am using the HF2's and the sound is very interesting. Open and live, on live recordings. A bit etched, though I have found this a trait with the HF2's. I will have to pop in the 797 and see how it sounds.


----------



## shigzeo

While I am not sure which FiQuest I heard (it was boxed), I know that it isn't the prototype which I also spent some time with. I hope this prototype and a nice DAC will help whet some appetites! These pics were taken at the recent Tokyo OFF meeting in December. Wonderful event.


----------



## jamato8

Nice.

 Well I soldered the jumpers and installed the AD797AN. Not sure if I like it, a bit tilted in the lower high and upper mids, i.e., too bright. I will give it some time. Maybe some tuning somewhere else.

 The 797 sounds like it is settling in. Needs to warm up anyway, both physically and sound wise.

 Ok, I am using the AD797AN, 4 channel with the buf634, and the 634's.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To keep away from shorting while make the adjustment for the charging just use your probes from above. If you look, you can see that if you have sharp probes, you can make contact with the connector where the wires go into the female end and at the same time it is then easier to use the pot as you are on the same side. I am running mine at 16.79 and all is working well. The light goes out and I have the batteries at 1.39 volts each though they can be charged to 1.42 with no problem._

 

actually no, from above is how I nearly slipped, I ended up doing it from the other side as you mention for easy adjustment, but from the underside you can do it from the opposite direction of the pic in ryuzohs instructions; but of course reversing the polarity of the test leads in you hands because the terminals are around the other way. this way it is unlikely you will slip backwards. i'll have to test what the battery discharges too, but if its below the recommended minimum thats really not very good. many times when you run ot of batteries you arent near an outlet to top it up, thats why you ran out in the first place and NiMH batteries dont like being stored low AT ALL.


----------



## jamato8

I don't take the connector out, you can access where the wire enters the female plug. I find this much safer than using the other side of the board where the traces are. There is no way to slip or short anything. I guess I am not making it clear what I am doing. It works though, and very easily.

 I agree about the voltage to be stored at and running them down. It would be a hassle to need a new set soon.


----------



## qusp

thats exactly what I meant as well, when I said from above, by measuring from the crimp that connects to the wire on the plug. of course you dont remove the plug, then you would be adjusting an unloaded voltage. but if for some reason you dont have sharp probes or whatever you can do it from underneath, but from the other direction as I explained. in the beginning of your explanation it did sound like you meant from above underneath 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 lol now if that (this jumble of words I made) doesnt confuse them nothing will


----------



## jamato8

Well mine is charging right on the money now. I haven't figured out how long it runs on a charge yet, depending on phones and buffers used and . . . I ran it for around 12 hours from last night and it was still going strong when I plugged it back in. 

 On some guitar riffs the amps reminds me of a tube amp. Solid but a very fluid and plucky sound. Tubes will always be my favorite even if the SS sounds as good just because. To be honest though, I have not heard the 3D effect from SS that you can get from a well designed piece of gear and I love the glow. I was in the US Navy when they still used tube equipment. Some of those big transmitting tubes could really heat things up. Try 2 tubes running at 500 watts output. That was an SRT-101 transmitter. I was a radioman and that designation doesn't even exist any longer. Oh well. 

 This stuff is great.


----------



## qusp

well with stacked buffers in HiC, running in mid gain with BUF634 (with 100R on R19) in ground, from a full charge last night I went to bed with my UM3X in my ears at 1am and when I woke up at 9:30am it was dead. which is about the same as lisa III, but it (FiQuest) charges much more quickly (only a few hours) and obviously running it without HiC on the stacked buffers and in low gain I could get more.
 also jamato8 are you sure you measured 1.2v with it empty? the amp wouldnt operate well before that with these chips we use. I thought I remembered Ryuzoh saying it (battery protection) cut out at 12V, so perhaps you moved a decimal point ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I forgot to measure the cells when dead before I put it on charge, so I dont know


----------



## jamato8

I never measured the batteries at low voltage and I haven't run mine to that point yet. The only measurement I made was then referred to the charge on each battery, as in 1.39 volts per battery as fully charged. 1.29 or so would be the minimum I would want to discharge the battery.


----------



## qusp

ok, I must have misread what you said. was very early in the morning for me


----------



## jamato8

I have been away at the movies. The 707 and 4 channel setup is sounding very excellent. Thanks for the recommendation!


----------



## SpudHarris

Yeah, I'm still loving the 797's to death. I am astounded evry time I listen, I love this amp. I have an OPA2111KP and a couple of OPA134PA's just delivered from Farnell so may have to open her up again later.......


----------



## qusp

no problem, as it happens i'm about to go out to the movies, seeing sherlock holmes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I like the look of this version. looks more true to the character in the books ie. a philandering drunk with an opium problem 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 not some english git with a top hat that speaks properly. 

 no problem on the 797 recommendation, its still what i'm using and I actually havent changed it at all for a couple of days now. so other than installing the buffers and caps I think i'm there at least for a while. will see what it sounds like with the OPA637BM in ground in a week or so when my farnell order arrives. i'm not a big fan of the OPA627 in amp position, but I did order 2 637sm just in case; I think the modern chips such as OPA827, OPA211, AD797 are superior. OPA2107 is on its way as well and looks to be a top performer. I wonder what it is with all these burr brown chips ending in 7 that sound great.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_no problem, as it happens i'm about to go out to the movies, seeing sherlock holmes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I like the look of this version. looks more true to the character in the books ie. a philandering drunk with an opium problem 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 not some english git with a top hat that speaks properly. 
_

 

Hope you want be disappointed since he is more an early Batman character than the character in the books.


----------



## SpudHarris

Yeah and what's wrong with proper speaking English gits anyhow 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Have the OPA637BP's and AU's but never thought of either in ground. The BM's are on special at Farnell a few quid cheaper than BP version. Haven't got around to any rolling today too busy just enjoying the music as I had a new Androcell CD delivered today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 No doubt we'll have a rolling thread at some point so I'm noting my findings.


----------



## slwiser

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I already tried ADA4627-1(A and B), which gives precise sound stage and focusing 3D sound...I think this is so suitable with E8.
 And LME49710/20 always go with this amp
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It would appear to me that the ADA4627-1 is not simply a drop in opamp to replace the AD712 default opamp. It is not available in a DIL package.

 The LME49720NA does appear to be a drop in opamp since it has the same DIL packaging as the AD712. 

 What opamps that are suggested to be used are available in the DIL dual or single package?


----------



## qusp

wow if you are really gonna limit yourself to DIP package you'll miss a few nice chips. so you are only looking for things where you dont have to solder AT ALL? the AD797 is DIP, but you need to solder the jumpers. a large number of chips come in DIP8, but are not always available and many of the new chips dont come in DIP8 at all as of yet. they come in SOIC8, which really is still a drop in replacement in my language, just needs to be soldered to an adapter (browndog)


----------



## qusp

you can still get heaps of good chips in dip8 though


----------



## jamato8

I should have the maxxed fi.Q version here today with the Black Gates, extra buffers and the OPA637's. fi.Q vs fi.Q Maximus.

 Qusp, what is the Switchcraft # for the silver mini jack? Thanks, John

 edit: I found them on Digi Key. Inexpensive enough they are.


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My best is BUF634 with 100 ohms on R19_

 

Hi Ryuzoh, as we have not had the two switch block uses clarified I assume that R19 is activated by the use of switch #1 on the block next to gound, is that correct? 

 I would still like exact clarification of 'both' switch blocks and Jeremy can then include them in his *''All You Needed To Know About The Fi-Quest But Were Afraid To Ask''* Post if he ever gets to it that is? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (Only 1/2 kiddin' Jeremy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).


----------



## jamato8

I am listening to the maxxed out version of the fi.Q with Black Gates, stacked buf634's in the ground channel, 4 buf634's per channel and the OPA637. I would say this should have plenty of power to drive just about anything, maybe even small speakers or my Klipsch Chorus. :^)

 One of many things that is so great about the fi.Q is that anyone can take their standard equipped fi.Q to any level. The maxxed out version commands another level of respect. Very well done Ryuzoh.

 So I wonder how the Maximus would sound with 2 buff634 per channel and stacked HA5002? I have a couple of special adapters from Xin for the smd 5002 that is stackable so it also works in the standard wiring of 634's etc.


----------



## ryuzoh

Happy new year, guys
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I just assembled 14th BG model...LOL

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I only have the ARZ version but may get the BN version if they are worth the price difference. I'm just waiting for answers regarding this..._

 

The BNs you mentioned in the mail is so risky one.
 You had better buy BRZs from Digi-key and solder up like below.
 I don't trust any shops in HK on eBay, only trusting cordless89. 
Attachment 24234

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I never measured the batteries at low voltage and I haven't run mine to that point yet. The only measurement I made was then referred to the charge on each battery, as in 1.39 volts per battery as fully charged. 1.29 or so would be the minimum I would want to discharge the battery._

 

Auto-shutdown will run when getting at 10.2V (0.85V each cell).
 Also power-LED will blink with 10.8V or less (0.9V each cell).
 This is by guideline of Sanyo.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_no problem, as it happens i'm about to go out to the movies, seeing sherlock holmes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I like the look of this version. looks more true to the character in the books ie. a philandering drunk with an opium problem 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 not some english git with a top hat that speaks properly. 

 no problem on the 797 recommendation, its still what i'm using and I actually havent changed it at all for a couple of days now. so other than installing the buffers and caps I think i'm there at least for a while. will see what it sounds like with the OPA637BM in ground in a week or so when my farnell order arrives. i'm not a big fan of the OPA627 in amp position, but I did order 2 637sm just in case; I think the modern chips such as OPA827, OPA211, AD797 are superior. OPA2107 is on its way as well and looks to be a top performer. I wonder what it is with all these burr brown chips ending in 7 that sound great._

 

Thanks, Dr.Watson
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Also, OPA2107 has so widely opened stage and very suitable with HD800....

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It would appear to me that the ADA4627-1 is not simply a drop in opamp to replace the AD712 default opamp. It is not available in a DIL package._

 

Absolutely, that's modern OPAMP as qusp said....
 DIP package is no longer mainstream. 
 Then, how about OPA2111KP, OPA2107AP, OPA602BP, they are all significant and will give you interesting sounds
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Have the OPA637BP's and AU's but never thought of either in ground._

 

That will make this amp an oscillator.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am listening to the maxxed out version of the fi.Q with Black Gates, stacked buf634's in the ground channel, 4 buf634's per channel and the OPA637. I would say this should have plenty of power to drive just about anything, maybe even small speakers or my Klipsch Chorus. :^)

 One of many things that is so great about the fi.Q is that anyone can take their standard equipped fi.Q to any level. The maxxed out version commands another level of respect. Very well done Ryuzoh.

 So I wonder how the Maximus would sound with 2 buff634 per channel and stacked HA5002? I have a couple of special adapters from Xin for the smd 5002 that is stackable so it also works in the standard wiring of 634's etc._

 

Glad to hear that
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Then remove 3-stacked 634Ps on G_CH, that is needless and wasting currents when 3ch architecture applied.
 BUF634U+HA-5002 buffer combo is my favorite, and why not you try it?.....LOL

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Ryuzoh, as we have not had the two switch block uses clarified I assume that R19 is activated by the use of switch #1 on the block next to ground, is that correct?_

 

No, R19 is for G_CH buffer only, each SW1 are assigned to L/R BUF634s.
 But I think you'll apply other OPAMPs on G_CH socket, so I don't recommend you to solder R19, and a resistor for BW mode (as 100 ohms) should be attached onto BUF634P directly.


----------



## jamato8

Ryuzoh, I am confused. So are you saying if I use the HA5002 in the buffer section why do I go from 4 channel in the ground to 3 channel? Or are you referring to something else?


----------



## qusp

I think hes saying that since you are using the amp in 3 channel mode to remove the stacked BUF634 in the 4th (ground) channel. they are wasting current if there and not being used.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi Ryuzoh, as we have not had the two switch block uses clarified I assume that R19 is activated by the use of switch #1 on the block next to gound, is that correct? 

 I would still like exact clarification of 'both' switch blocks and Jeremy can then include them in his *''All You Needed To Know About The Fi-Quest But Were Afraid To Ask''* Post if he ever gets to it that is? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (Only 1/2 kiddin' Jeremy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)._

 

all info is collected, but every time I think i'm done something else is added lol.

 i'll just add the stuff thats been said in the last day as its quite pertinent and i'll shoot it off to ryuzoh and post it here for review. i'm not doing anything really with design and I havent added much at all myself, just collected info.


----------



## ryuzoh

DP


----------



## jamato8

Yes, that is what I understood. 

 So what have you found you like best. The 3 or 4 channel? I know there are inherent problems with 4 channel and on the other fi.Q I was hearing something that sounded like some DC offset at times when in 4 channel with the stock opamp that came with it. With the 792 I don't hear it.

 edit:I didn't look at the ground jumper and thought the maxxed fi.Q was already in 4 channel. I see that it is in 3 channel so now I realize why you said you would take the buffers out. I will try it in the 4 channel.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryuzoh, I am confused. So are you saying if I use the HA5002 in the buffer section why do I go from 4 channel in the ground to 3 channel? Or are you referring to something else?_

 

No, what I'm saying is 634Ps on G_CH will work on 4ch mode only, and will waste currents if you choose 3ch mode, and will shorten runtime.
 So 3-stacked one should be removed when you use with 3ch mode.

 And I'm recommending you to try 5002+634U combo on BUF section.
 Upper DIP socket: HA-5002 adapter
 Underneath: Stacked 634Us

 Added--
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think hes saying that since you are using the amp in 3 channel mode to remove the stacked BUF634 in the 4th (ground) channel. they are wasting current if there and not being used._

 

Haven't seen this post when I post above
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i'll just add the stuff thats been said in the last day as its quite pertinent and i'll shoot it off to ryuzoh and post it here for review. i'm not doing anything really with design and I havent added much at all myself, just collected info._

 

Okay, I'll answer pictorially as long as possible


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what have you found you like best. The 3 or 4 channel? I know there are inherent problems with 4 channel and on the other fi.Q I was hearing something that sounded like some DC offset at times when in 4 channel with the stock opamp that came with it. With the 792 I don't hear it._

 

IMO, always preferring 3 to 4.
 The reason is DC as you're saying, unavoidable issue with 4ch architecture.
 The hiss problem which was mentioned at this thread before is also cleared by R20 jumpering (should be applied in all fi.Qs).

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_edit:I didn't look at the ground jumper and thought the maxxed fi.Q was already in 4 channel. I see that it is in 3 channel so now I realize why you said you would take the buffers out. I will try it in the 4 channel._

 

Algight
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But I don't recommend to try with JH13.
 If you want, please use with unstacked BUF634P to reduce DC.


----------



## jamato8

Ok but I am already trying it and didn't think about the additional DC offset. I am listening with the 13's with all the stacked buffers in the ground channel. The amp really does sound different. To my ear, at this time, even more dimensional. I will do more comparing. I have pretty good hearing, still up to 17 khz and I don't hear any hiss. I know I have read of others having a problem with it and I can't stand hiss but so far in 4 channel no problem with hiss and no small clicks and pops or static that can or may indicate too much DC offset. Well more time to compare is needed.


----------



## qusp

Jon, yeah i'm still undecided about 3 vs 4 channel. most of the time I prefer 3, as to these ears the soundstage is a bit more cohesive this way. 

 Ryuzoh: yeah I had to restrain myself with regard to design for this, so i'm not really going to start. many here will know that graphic design and in particular compositing for print and some film was my profession as well as some cheffing, but i'm too much of a perfectionist and obsessive by nature, so would often spend many hours past the point where the job was done to a perfectly acceptable level, to get it up to MY standard and then i'm the only person who noticed the difference 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 so I wont be doing much any design in it as I would spend too much time on it.


----------



## jamato8

I will play more with the settings on the Maximus when it settles. I know the caps were already formed but it is going through a funk stage right now of heavy bass and so so detail. Part of reforming the caps after soldering etc. 

 Gah, I have a review I need to get done also on some montors. My side of the table with all my equipment and amps makes me look a little looney.


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, R19 is for G_CH buffer only, each SW1 are assigned to L/R BUF634s.
 But I think you'll apply other OPAMPs on G_CH socket, so I don't recommend you to solder R19, and a resistor for BW mode (as 100 ohms) should be attached onto BUF634P directly._

 

Thanks for all the clarifications Ryuzoh.....

 You quoted BUF634 with 100R in R19 as your favourite in ground but also said you prefer 3 channel operation, so doe that mean you are using a buffer in ground channel with 3 channel operation?. I've been using 3 channel but with BUF634P's (2 x stacked) in ground and like it very much, is this not good?

 Also what does switch 2 do on the block next to ground? Switch 1 on both blocks are for L/R buffers yes?


----------



## qusp

Nigel, ground is the 4th channel, what you have in there is immaterial if you are using 3 channel mode. all the ground channel buffers are doing in this case are sucking power and they have no influence on the sound whatsoever. they are still in the circuit because the 3/4 channel jumper only decides what is included in the audio signal.

 he said BUF634 and 100R IF using 4 channel, but also said he prefers 3 channel. as I do. after further listening today i've pretty much sealed that


----------



## SpudHarris

Ahh, so if you are using 3 channel mode you are utilizing the LT1210 that is already installed as the 3rd channel is that correct? and what ever goes in ground only takes effect if 4 channel mode is sellected.

 I know you say it is immaterial what goes in ground if you are using 3 channel mode but different chips in that socket still change the sound so still count don't they. I'll solder up a BUF adapter with a 100R and give the 4 channel mode another go.

 What set up have you settled on Jeremy? Mine at present is 797's in L/R single BUF634's with #1's switched + OPA827 in ground, 3 channel mode.....


----------



## qusp

no, in 3 channel mode the chip ground socket does nothing for the audio signal, its out of the audio circuit at that point (or should be even though it still drains power). the LT1210 is a regulator, not an opamp, the regulator is what generates the ground when in 3 channel and still does most of the heavy lifting even in 4 channel mode. so i'm kinda puzzled by your favorite combo, because the OPA827 should have zero effect on the sound when in 3 channel mode. when in 3 channel mode the ground should be in effect 'passive' as far as you can have a passive ground with a battery powered portable device that isnt physically connected to ground that is. maybe this is what Ryuzoh was meaning early in the piece when he said he was working to change the arrangement of the LT1210, because if the 4th socket still effects the sound in 3 channel mode there is something wrong. i'll check that out myself tomorrow sometime I guess

 well i've started to use my discrete buffers as of a little while ago, so i'm using AD797, my discrete buffers combined with the BUF634U on the bottom of the board and the amp in 3 channel mode not in HiC as i'm unsure of the effect it would have on the discrete buffers.


----------



## SpudHarris

Yeah, you are probably right Jeremy..

 Did some more testing this evening and it's probably placebo, you know replacing a chip and ''expecting'' a change. All the same I keep coming back to the 797's as L/R, no getting away from it this amp really shows what they are capable of.


----------



## jamato8

I like the 797 also. I have them in the stock fi.Q and the 637 in the other and there is an airiness and transparency to the 797. The 637 amp may need more time for burn in as the sound of it has changed but the bass on the 797 is more defined. The 637 also has the Black Gates and if any are new or needing forming, the bass could take some time to come in.


----------



## SpudHarris

Keep us posted Jon regards the changes, mine will be winging it's way to Ryuzoh soon for Maxxing out and I'm hoping it's money well spent. 

 I followed Ryuzoh's lead on the P3+ configuration which was OPA2111KP + Stacked Buffers + OPA627's in ground. I bought another 2111KP and plan on using a similar set up for trial in the Fi-Q this evening.....


----------



## qusp

recieved some OPA2107 today very nice indeed in the FiQ still doesnt quite beat my reference AD797. OPA228 works quite well in ground as well. still playing around with grounding on the buffers i'm pretty sure i'm right in grounding them to star ground and not grounding the output at all since they are inside the feedback loop for the AD797. sounds great, but would like some confirmation from Ryuzoh that i'm doing the right thing here? since I havent worked with a device with a ground channel before. I would think that grounding them to the ground channel or anywhere that uses the ground channel as a ground reference would negate the pros of having an active ground sinking the return from the headphones and could even cause issues correct?


----------



## qusp

BTW i've just printed out the PDF and will go through the print-out in the morning and make sure nothing screams out at me. then its al done until something else is added of course 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 this is going to be an ongoing thing I can see

 finally my caps are on their way from PCX, steph went on break and we hadnt finished my order, so i've got my goodies on the way. I also added a few bits to play around with modding the bass switch circuit. i do find myself using it on occasion with some music. I always enjoyed having this option with lisa III and am glad to have it on the Fi-Q. I know its not terribly audiophile, but hey as I said to Ryuzoh, the first step is admitting you have a problem


----------



## SpudHarris

The OPA2111KP is nice but doesn't seem to have the same impact that it has in the P3+ for some reason, I've tried loads of combinations of both buffers and ground (although not the OPA228 yet) and it never seems to shine like the AD797's do. More testing this evening as Wifey is off to bed early (same time as kids) so I got the whole evening with the Fi-Q


----------



## SpudHarris

Guys, have any of you tried any of the ibasso stuff from the bundled P3/P3+/D10 etc. such as the transistor buffers? If ground has no bearing in 3 channel mode would we not be able to use the dummy adaptors? I haven't tried the dummy adapters myself yet as there is bound to be a reason why you can't 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 just wondered if it might help make the battery last longer. I did try the buffers and they made the OPA2111KP sound better than any other buffer but with most other chips they sounded bass light in comparison.....


----------



## qusp

in 3 channel mode you can simply remove whatever is i the socket; nothing in there at all; you dont need to put a dummy or anything in there


----------



## SpudHarris

Sweet. Thanks Jeremy.


----------



## qusp

no problem Nigel


----------



## jamato8

I have some tantalums and good carbon resistors coming from PCX and some more BG's. I like to keep stocked on the Bg's as soon the will be no more. I have tried a number of other caps that some say they like better but they don't float my boat. 

 I like the 2111 also. So Nigel yours is flying back to Ryuzoh. Good, I think you enjoy the results. Top notch. And the ground, Jeremy, as you perceive, is different. Measure from the star ground to the virtual ground. 

 I love floating grounds above the actual ground. You get no noise but it works more in tube equipment. I can float heaters 60 volts above actual ground and have a nice quiet circuit. 

 Just got home from ICU all day. The Maximus is sounding real good.


----------



## qusp

oh I always knew it was different Jon, I only wondered about A) floating the output ground of the buffers and b) confirming my thinking that i should indeed be using signal ground/input ground rather than active/output ground


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_oh I always knew it was different Jon, I only wondered about A) floating the output ground of the buffers and b) confirming my thinking that i should indeed be using signal ground/input ground rather than active/output ground_

 

Yeah I figured that. 

 This amp really has a powerful sound to it. No letdown on complex passages, it just stays open and free flowing. Well just another 800 hours for the GB's to settle in. Actually I think these are from the prior model I had so they should be settled in not too long a time. 

 I look forward to what you guys come up with.


----------



## qusp

cool, yeah so this way the ONLY thing being sunk by the active ground is the return from the headhones. 

 yeah that would be a bit frustrating burning in some BG's in one gen of the amp and having to do it all over again. in your experience jon how long does the effect of soldering take to be counteracted with BG caps that have been reused? I havent as yet ever recycled any blackgates. 

 I got some FK BGs and a few others as well and will probably end up with a mixture of them, the toshins, Nichocon KZ (or silmic II), but I will be using film caps for any bypassing as I feel they are more appropriate for this purpose.

 i'm looking forward to some results of resistor rolling as well, I may even try and add to my SMD texas Zfoil order if they will do the values I need. they have a fairly limited range in the SMD versions; otherwise i'll just live with some 200R of their regular axial type and silver mica in the bass section. this amp is going to be so much fun, but $$$. at the same time I think the experience gained will go to good use in other projects because results from tweaking in this amp are quite tangible IME


----------



## jamato8

Audio Note UK was one of the biggest users of Black Gates. They swore by them and Peter, the owner even had a high end TV changed over to all BG's and was surprised and the improvement even though he already had faith in what the could do. 

 On the forming period after resoldering, it depends if you do it fast and hot or sit there and butter stuff up. I have found they can take some time if gotten hot or not long if fast and quick. Peter felt that BG's needed to be 'on' all the time and that when off they would start to lose their forming. I have found the need some reforming but not as long as what he felt the would need. 

 I have some killer output transformers used for preamps or any tube in the 6SN7 range. I use them on the dac I built. Double nickle C core. What beauties and what sound. So expensive now. He gave them to me at a special price because his guy made them instead of the next step down, lucky me. :^) They are like 800 bucks apiece now. Well I digress. 

 Anyway my Maximus uses the BG's as bypass also and those are new so time will be needed but it sound mighty fine now.


----------



## qusp

I know ANOTE like them, but I dont like them everywhere. they are electrolytic, a good electrolytic, but one all the same and I ONLY use them (electrolytics of ANY type) when space, price and high capacitance are a concern. I think you will find that ANOTE will use their own film caps in preference to blackgates in lower capacitance areas that have enough space as well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 regarding XFR's on dacs, my latest sabre build (ackodac) will have a transformer coupled output as well, with diamond buffers tagged on the end to drive headphones directly and reduce output impedance.


----------



## jamato8

Sure, I don't use them in the digital circuit. They aren't best there. I used Oscon as they do better in the digital realm. They used film caps in the signal path and that is understandable. But I have compared a nonpolarized BG in the signal path to teflon, copper and oil and a few other as was very surprised at how well a broken BG did. Frankly they can be more revealing than some film caps and just as musical. I normally also use film and foil in oil caps in the signal path as well. One of my favorites is the silver, gold in oil Mundorf. The Audio Note silver is one of the best there is but at what a price. I have many copper and oil caps also but the smother a bit.


----------



## qusp

yeah I dont actually favor the ANOTE silver foil caps or even their copper, if in that pricerange I would (and have done) go for duelund. I love the mundorf SIO as well, actually like them better than their SGIO. I'm not sayin they are bad caps, far from it I use them often, but i'm just not sure they are all they are made out to be and I dont think they make good bypass caps as they arent fast enough IMO. I guess we'll just agree to disagree here Jon with regard to BG, and thats all good.


----------



## jamato8

It's all good. At least we enjoy music and have fun with the equipment.


----------



## qusp

indeed


----------



## slwiser

I have placed an opamp order so I can play around a bit myself. 

 Small stuff I probably can get done, such as bridging the jumper for the AD797. But would this bridge also be needed for what other opamps and for which should it be broken?

 Where is that PDF?????


----------



## SpudHarris

I asked if this affected other opamps also but don't think I got a reply. I know for sure that it needs to be broken for the OPA637's. Maybe we could get some clarity on this as I have been throwing a few different L/R opamps in there. Always come back to the AD797's though


----------



## jamato8

I got my tants and carbons today along with some more Black Gates. I have a pretty good stock of BG's now Jeremy. I don't think I will install the resistors for a while yet. I need to let Maximus fully form.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_recieved some OPA2107 today very nice indeed in the FiQ still doesnt quite beat my reference AD797. OPA228 works quite well in ground as well. still playing around with grounding on the buffers i'm pretty sure i'm right in grounding them to star ground and not grounding the output at all since they are inside the feedback loop for the AD797. sounds great, but would like some confirmation from Ryuzoh that i'm doing the right thing here? since I havent worked with a device with a ground channel before. I would think that grounding them to the ground channel or anywhere that uses the ground channel as a ground reference would negate the pros of having an active ground sinking the return from the headphones and could even cause issues correct?_

 

Sorry for shorty massage, and writing this from iPhone......
 First, LT1210 is current feedback type and can provide 1.1A.
 And the heat chip is referring mid from TLE2426ID underneath.
 If you would have ground reference for the board, should be extructed from star point. 
 Also, had you confirmed the present?


----------



## qusp

yes, I am taking it from the star ground point, which I have connected via 16AWG silver foil to a DIP socket on the top side, so I can plug ground wires or chip bypasses directly into the socket and be able to make changes without a soldering iron while out, I have connected the buffers input ground, but not the output. the output would be used for driving headphones directly, or connecting to output jacks instead of feeding the loop, I assume (will confirm) that they are one in the same gropund anyway. yeah got your present 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I sent you an email to the address you sent it from last week but havent heard back from you. look for qusp (at) optusnet.com.au in your inbox. thanks for that. as I said in the email, after finishing caps mods for amp, buffer and PSU sections I will have some fun with the bass circuit since on some music I love it (middle position), just like with Lisa III its very good to have it there when I feel like it. so please comfirm from that email address and I will send the PDF through later tonight.


----------



## qusp

some forum members are really making me tired, noone in this thread, but I get really sick of people coming into this area and other portable areas, that they clearly have no interest in the products (because they dont make a difference apparently) and yet they are here and ONLY come here to help others to 'see the light' and try to I think there should be something done about it; as far as i'm concerned this is trolling and should not be allowed. especially when they even start talking ABX testing etc. how anyone could seriously say they think a rig like anyone in this thread doesnt sound any different to the HP out of an ipod is beyond me and if that really is the case, what are they doing at head-fi at all in any area, if they cant tell that difference how could they tell the difference between headphones, CD players anything at all, they may as well go home now. it really just smells of ******** to me. 

 sorry for the rant, but its really pissing me off; there are a few people who cruise the forums posting in as many threads as they can, to 'educate' people of the error of their ways because clearly we are hearing things because we are so into what we are doing and to stop us from influencing others with these mind bending tricks. the worst thing is these are older members mostly

 rant over


----------



## SpudHarris

X2

 There are a lot of them about unfortunately and like you say if they can't tell the difference between the HP out and a dock connected to a decent amp what chance have they got of identifying subtle (and not so subtle in some cases) difference between opamps etc???

 Beyond me


----------



## qusp

yeah and in my case too its compared to a totally different DAC, not just the amp is different 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (as if the amp isnt enough) just seems like trolling to me. how do they buy anything? how do they make a decision about ANY purchase? but magically these differences and smaller exist as soon as they are talking about their home rig. for instance tweaking the power supply or something. not saying that makes for a small difference, but IMO smaller than ipod HP out and my rig for example (it was the example used) thats just crazy talk. because of the isolation provided by JH13 I can tell the difference even walking around in the day in the city. the thing that annoys me most is they will basically tell you that because they couldnt hear a difference that obviously you are just deluded and fooling yourself. its rude and arrogant. why need DBT if its bleedingly obvious?? one in particular is a member from 2002; whats he been doing here all this time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 surely he could just buy based on looks and from a CNET review or something if he cant tell the difference in use portable, it really shouldnt matter what he buys right??


----------



## SpudHarris

Been onto that thread and offered a little bolstering, not that it will make any difference the guy you are conversing with seems like an arrogant git and is always gonna think he's right you're wrong. Let him think he knows it all coz he's one of these guys who just like to argue for the sake of it, a troll... I'd just stick him on ignore!


----------



## mrarroyo

The am transistor radio I bought in 1968 via its included mono-bud sounds as good as my iModded iPod feeding a LaRocco MkII via a line out dock using black gates while using either the SE530 or UM2! Yeah! that is what we are talking about, right?


----------



## SpudHarris

Well that doesn't surprise me, everything sounds exactly the same to me also. In fact it's may be a little clearer with cotton wool in my ears....


----------



## qusp

thanks for the backup, but I think i'll just not bother going back there, I think I finished rather well anyway, finding him making that statement today about the xin amps sounding different from similar modern amps (P3+ and FiQuest I guess) was precious. his argument has so many holes its not funny and he keeps on ignoring everything but amping, hasnt replied to any of my questions about source and headphones sounding different too and how he chose them. I wouldnt care if he didnt finish everything off with something that makes himself seem like yoda or something 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 anyway yeah i'm done there, did think about the ignore button and may well still do that as the one and only time i've used it has been very useful.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The am transistor radio I bought in 1968 via its included mono-bud sounds as good as my iModded iPod feeding a LaRocco MkII via a line out dock using black gates while using either the SE530 or UM2! Yeah! that is what we are talking about, right? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

you got it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 yeah actually I woke up the other day and my girlfriend had swapped in her ibuds for my JH13, I thought something felt strange but the sound was so similar that I had to take them out of my ears before I realized. what a dirty trick that was.... with the telivision in the room it made it very difficult. I just might have saved myself some money


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_you got it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 yeah actually I woke up the other day and my girlfriend had swapped in her ibuds for my JH13, I thought something felt strange but the sound was so similar that I had to take them out of my ears before I realized. what a dirty trick that was.... with the telivision in the room it made it very difficult. I just might have saved myself some money_

 

haha.... lmao


----------



## qusp

yeah that just kinda rolled off the tongue that one.


----------



## SpudHarris

As long as she didn't manage to get your JH13's in her luggs. I remember how long those things were made. Push them too far in mate and ya eyes turn round


----------



## qusp

man, so many dirty jokes just dying to get out.

 yeah I did go for deep insertion tips...errm... man this is hard ....arrh every turn is filled with..... doh

 I wanted the best seal and so far no complaints, not one refit, got used to it in notime too. but luckily purple isnt her colour. not that she could even get them even close to in enough for a seal


----------



## SpudHarris

Well you are a lucky man.... I posted mine back this morning for a second time. 1st time was a fit issue (my fault for hiring a crap Audiologist just because she was hot). Fit now is perfect but now got distortion in the left monitor. It's not too bad but I listen to a lot of the Ultimae Ambient Trance stuff and on quieter passages it bugs the hell out of me...

 So I'm back to the W3's at the moment. It's all good though as they have never sounded as good as they do with the Fi-Quest 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Be nice to have the JH13 back soon though.


----------



## jamato8

So how many here on HeadFi have the fi.Q so far? I can see 4 here in this post but where are the rest? I know a number of them went to Japan but surely there are more here?


----------



## jamato8

I can still hear changes on the maxxed out version I have. Yesterday it didn't have all the transparency it has had but after 24 hours or so, it has a better defined bass etc. I compare to other amps to see if it is in my head or is it the amp. I can tell more of a difference between the stock vs and the BG version but that can also be the different opamps I am using. The 797 is in the stock and I can remember what is in the maxxed version but it isn't the same opamp.


----------



## qusp

yeah I had been wondering where the rest of the owners were as well, since moreso than other amps I would think if you were an owner you would be posting in the appreciation thread with this amp because of all the changes that can be made. there werent heaps from here that registered an order in the first thread either though, but more than 4.

 I ordered some takman metal film and shinko tant resistors, as well as some more mundorf MKP for the gain and bass circuits, I will use some TX2575 from TX for the feedback resistors. at this stage until my caps arrive the burn-in seems to have settled right down and is pretty stable.

 Jon, 33uf FK?? i'm sorted for 47, but i'll still be bypassing them with films 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll also try out all nichicon KZ and all elna ROF to see which I like. I have no need for standard BG


----------



## jamato8

Yeah, no need for standard BG. There are others that are better. I look forward to your impressions once you do some changes on the resistors. I had to get the 1 watt tants as that is what they had for the resistance I wanted and I have used 1 watt and 2 watt where nothing more than 1/8 watt was needed but I do hear an improvement in sound with the larger wattage as Audio Note UK also confirmed in the past. I have some nice tants in storage and some very nice caps but they are 1000 miles away so for now everything gets bought. 

 Any further impressions on the fi.Q in comparison to other amps?


----------



## ryuzoh

*[size=x-large]Important nortifications[/size]
*









 This mod will kill most of noises
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also....


----------



## jamato8

Should be easy to implement.


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*[size=x-large]Important nortifications[/size]
*










 This mod will kill most of noises
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also....



_

 

Ryuzoh,

 any chance you could sort this for me when you maxx mine out? Are you ok with me sending mine to you now for modding?

 If so can you drop me an e-mail with your address, I'm without my JH13's for a while so may as well be without the Fi-Q also. Back to the P3+ and W3 combo......


----------



## qusp

cool, will do that when i'm modding the gain and bass switches


----------



## jamato8

I notice I am back to using my Ultrasone Ed. 9 with the fi.Q. I find the JH13's more comfortable but the 9's throw a larger soundstage and in some ways sound better, which wasn't true with the other amps I have.


----------



## qusp

hmm really. I wasnt fond of them when I heard them at a meet. perhaps I need to live with them for a while. I do find that the HD600 with TWCu cable (portable vortex) sounds great with the FiQuest as well. using them for the same reason as you by the sounds of it. I use them at home when I need to be able to hear my surroundings a bitand as you say the soundstage is really quite special with this little-big amp


----------



## jamato8

Well I have been told in the past that the Ult. Ed. 9 do better with a solid state amp than a tube amp. My main home amp is the modified Woo 6. I would say the fi.Q sounds better with the 9's than the Woo 6 does and the 6 has always sounded very good to my ear.


----------



## qusp

well that makes sense, those things have crazy bass quantity as it is. I just couldnt get on with the titanium sound in the treble/upper mids. some music would definitely sound great on them (reggae, jazz?) and perhaps a tube amp would help add a bit more natural tone? there adept cans, just something about the tone threw me. recable??


----------



## jamato8

The 9's seem to either be something people like or don't. I had the 750's first and was told that there wasn't much difference as the driver was the same. There is some difference. The cable, though it doesn't look special is supposed to be well though out regarding the materials used. I like them the way they are and do find them great with reggae and jazz but I also enjoy them with everything else.


----------



## SpudHarris

I'm using the stock Fi-Quest as my home amp now as to my ears it out classed my Slee Solo PSU1 + the tweakabilty factor. The Slee sold a couple of days back on e-bay so funds a plenty now for my Maxx out & getting the W3's made into customs at Unique Melody 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So as a home amp I've tried the 325i's and the Denon D2k's and have to say the Denons sound as good as I've ever heard them. This amp even in it's stock form is something else and the thing that brings the biggest grin when I'm soaking it up is the fact that bang for buck this is the best purchase I think I ever made......... Sweeeeeeet!


----------



## jamato8

The stock amp sounds different from the maxxed but no less of an amp. It has a very good spatial quality to the music. The ability to sort through different op amps and then change the current and ground scheme in combination is different from anything else I know of. These amps should be sticking around for some time. 

 So who else has this amp here? I know, as I stated earlier, that many are in Japan but I thought others received it as well.


----------



## tnmike1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *slwiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hope you want be disappointed since he is more an early Batman character than the character in the books._

 

Off htread but happened to see the above. I'm far from authority on this amp but for my 2 cents, I much prefer the Black and White Basil Rathbone Sherlock to this contemporary version. Yeah, Doyle referrred to his "2% solution" problem with cocaine but in those days youwere taking morphine, cocaine and God knows wht else as common medicine. Fact of life. And I have not seen the movies but the trailers for it look like a modernized version of Olde England.

 Back on track to the thread


----------



## jamato8

Ok, enough of this Batman and Sherlock stuff!! This is a thread about an amp. geeszz

 Well okay, I did see SH, not bad but come on, it was nothing like I read. I mean where is the down and dirty figurin it out stuff without all the beatum up junk?

 Anyway, I have the OPA637 in the maxxed amp and have it back in 4 channel. You know the 4 channel throws a larger and huger soundstage. It is just more tactile with more separation though it does bring the mids forward a bit but at the same time everything is larger. I need to install those tants. More updates later. 

 Ok back to Batman, I mean Sherlock. Sorry for the interruption.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ryuzoh,

 any chance you could sort this for me when you maxx mine out? Are you ok with me sending mine to you now for modding?

 If so can you drop me an e-mail with your address, I'm without my JH13's for a while so may as well be without the Fi-Q also. Back to the P3+ and W3 combo......_

 

Sure, and PM you now.


----------



## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So how many here on HeadFi have the fi.Q so far? I can see 4 here in this post but where are the rest? I know a number of them went to Japan but surely there are more here?_

 

they are too shy to own up


----------



## qusp

yes, well according to many on here we are akin to terrorists carrying bombs that could wipe out out city of residence. hardly surprising no-one wants to own one


----------



## jamato8

I am not sure I understand. 

 There were few ordered outside of Japan, with most going there. Well maybe next time more will get this great amp in other countries.


----------



## SpudHarris

Yeah, not sure I understand either 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Any how I'm donning my flameproof jacket as I write, reason being I am absolutely loving the LM6172 in L/R with Hi-C buffers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The LM6172 has never been a favourite of mine, it was in G/VG in the stock P3+ and was good there. However, in the Fi-Q it is absolutely astounding in L/R 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I'm still testing but at the moment it's a close call between this and the AD797's 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Try it, you will have never heared the 6172 sound this good...


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_yes, well according to many on here we are akin to terrorists carrying bombs that could wipe out out city of residence. hardly surprising no-one wants to own one_

 

have you been watching the Simpons again?


----------



## qusp

hmm, I think i'll leave you to it mate 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 the 6172 just isnt my thing, listening with the case off and burson discrete at the moment and the sound is really something; wide wide wide and deep soundstage, midrange texture, extended and smooth highs OMG so musical too, now if only I could fit the case on 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Jon and Nigel, are you confused at my statement or are you still talking about the lack of owners in here? sure is weird that there's only us in here 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 my comment was simply regarding the portable rig size inspectors. 

 someone was asking about amps and had mentioned the HR portable micro, so I recommended the FiQuest because he was obviously across the size and cost. then someone different this time pipes up and says not to pay any attention to me because my rig weighs as much as a bowling ball and could explode and take out your house and the neighbours 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and as per usual it was someone who clearly doesnt know what the fiquest is and also doesnt realize the low cost and the fact that you dont HAVE to use it with D10 as dac only. its really starting to get to me this crap. so much that i'm thinking i'm just not going to try to help anyone and will only post on here if I need to find something out myself. the smart-ass quotient is getting out of hand


----------



## jamato8

No, we were back to talking about you. 

 I don't want anyone checking out the size of my portable rig.


----------



## SpudHarris

Ahhh, with you now Jeremy......


----------



## qusp

edited above with rant, was in response to someone wanting a portable to drive HD6XX on a budget with a portable. I personally dont think there is a better option


----------



## jamato8

Strange. They don't even know what they are talking about. Some people make statements obviously just to get attention. 

 So how is the fi.Q comparing to the Lisa III?

 There is only us because outside of Japan, it is just about only us. We are the few, the privileged. Do you realize in all the bazzillions of people how rare we are, that we have a fi.Q to listen with and they don't?


----------



## kunalraiker

John are you still the proud owner of all the audio gear in your signature.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kunalraiker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_John are you still the proud owner of all the audio gear in your signature._

 

If it is there, I gots it. Someday I will heap it into a pile and photograph it. Actually I have more but you can only put so many words in your signature. I have 4 iRvier H140's and 4 H120's. No I don't know why for sure but I also have 5 tires and I only need 4 at a time.


----------



## kunalraiker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If it is there, I gots it. Someday I will heap it into a pile and photograph it. Actually I have more but you can only put so many words in your signature. I have 4 iRvier H140's and 4 H120's. No I don't know why for sure but I also have 5 tires and I only need 4 at a time._

 






 I feel its been a while someone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 has actually traded any item.

 Cone on John the WA6 looks
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 tempting, what do you say, being busy with fi-Quest


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kunalraiker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_





 I feel its been a while someone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 has actually traded any item.

 Cone on John the WA6 looks
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 tempting, what do you say, being busy with fi-Quest
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I love tubes but I have thought about it from time to time recently due to room constraints and not sound. 

 So we are few here, those with the fi.Q. I thought more had purchased it in the US, UK, Austria, I mean Australia. :^) Well I don't see too many posts from those in Japan, where the bulk of the fi.Q are. 

 Listening right now with the Maximus, 4 BUF634 buffers per channel, 4 channel with 3 BUF634 buffers, and the OPA637. AhHHH but to share the joy. 

 I would like to try some of those diamond buffers or to build something small that would allow for the closure of the amp. What type of current draw do they have? I like discrete and always have. 

 I am close to putting in some Riken Ohm or the Tantalums in the Maximus. It is nice that there is a bit of room from the bottom of the PCB to the chassis as this allows use of the 1 watt tants I have. 

 Ryuzho, what brand are the resistors used for the 15, 22 and 1K SM?


 Edit: I can still hear changes in the Black Gate version. One day fast and articulate and the next or the next after that a little too warmer and slower sounding with less depth. Having the standard fi.Q to compare to allows for an accurate appraisal rather than "memory". Black Gates are my favorite but the lonnnnggg forming/burn-in period is a pain. I even switch opamps to the 797 in the Maximus and it sounds very fine but still the standard fi.Q today has more depth and it is quicker. Again this changes over time and I do shut the amps off for a few hours at a time, which allows for better forming of the caps, IMO though the caps in the Maximus should already be formed since they were out of the other board. Possibly the resoldering though I have found this normally doesn't require a new burn in length of time but a shorter one.


----------



## qusp

Jon, the case closes with the buffers, but not with the burson discrete opamps in amp position as well. The case could close even easier if a smaller SMD organic polymer cap was used in place of the SMD sanyo oscon SEPC i'm using. as for the current draw here are some specs, but as for how many MA it uses i'll have to check that out, it would vary depending on whether you followed the BOM exactly as well of course. the specs are pretty great for some pretty cheap parts, obviously distortion figures would be slightly better with an IC, but its not enough to be a worry

 Frequency response: 0 Hz - 100 MHz(?), more than 10 MHz
 Frequency response with input filter 0 Hz - 1.29 MHz, -3 dB
 Power bandwidth at 7 Vrms, 50 ohms: 0 Hz - 100 MHz(?), more than 10 MHz
 Equivalent input noise: 0,6 µV
 Signal to noise ratio: 124 dB at 1 V out
 Dynamic headroom: 141 dB
 Distortion: 0,002%
 Slew rate:3000 V/us 
 Step response: Perfect without overshoot
 Gain: 0.999 (0 dB)
 Input impedance: >1 Mohms, pullup, pulldown resistors not included.
 Output impedance: 2.5 ohms
 Output current: 1 A peak
 Supply voltage: +- 6 to 24 V DC with chosen transistors
 Dimensions: 21.7 (0.852") x 32.0 (1,261") mm

 as for the lisa comparison, i've been working on some impresssions with the discrete units, will post in the next couple of days. there are just so many variables to consider when reviewing this amp


----------



## jamato8

Those are some nice specs and the dynamic range will surpass just about anything up front of it. There doesn't look to be anything to degrade the signal. No overshoot? So there should be no ringing or the slight bit of distortion it can cause. Has any one actually scoped it?


----------



## qusp

havent scoped it mate, in the process of getting a decent scope (at the moment only using my soundcard, which is bettered by this buffer in every way) and only really found the need for one recently, have had other things higher on the agenda. have to get one though for the beta testing of the ackodac, but that wont be for a few weeks yet. 

 i've found him to be pretty honest with regard to performance and everything on his site is pretty sophisticated. i'll ask him about overshoot/ringing; there is very little in the way of marketing fluff or subjective opinion on there. its the only 4 layer diamond buffer PCB i've seen thats for sure, all traces are very short with a very well thought out ground plane so it wouldnt surprise me if the measurements were entirely accurate. 

 i'm eyeing off the QRV08 headamp (2 actually for balanced) a very special and not a little bit complicated build. yet to see it reviewed here and I think it could be a real giant killer. the BOM can be had for under $300, so probably about 550 for the 2 and that includes 4 super regulators on the each PCB

 so first opportunity I get i'll try to get some measurements done, but for the moment my ears will have to do and they are very happy indeed. that slew rate is rather special dont you think?


----------



## jamato8

Yes I noticed the slew rate. A bit different from tube stuff.


----------



## jamato8

I have all of the Tants installed now. What a pain though with the sm resistors. They are glued on so I ended up taking some wire cutter and breaking them. Then you can get the ends off that are solder to the trace. Also be careful because some of the contact points are very close to each other and you can bridge the solder very easily where it should not be going. 

 The tants already sound good. On the 1 watt tants, they have to be right next to the pcb or the case won't close but it just does.


----------



## jamato8

Well this was supposed to an edit for the above post but somehow I did a new post. Too much good music. :^)

 listening to the newly remastered Credence Clearwater Revival Concert CD. Great Stuff! 

 iRiver lossless to the MB-1 to the fi.Q Maximus to Ultrasone Ed. 9. 

 Edit: The bass quality with the tantalums is different, in a good way. Actually all the sound is different, in a good way. I need more time on the tants but so far I like what I am hearing. Too bad they are hard to get, only NOS and the new tantalums have magnetic ends so I won't use them. I also have some good carbon resistors that I bet from past experience, would sound great.

 Yes, these tantalums are a must for me. Either that or some other good resistors in place of the 15 ohm X4, 22 ohm X2 and 900 or 1000 ohm (1K) X2 like Riken Ohm for far less money or Kiwame.


----------



## qusp

Hey Jon, did you install those R's in stages? if you were to just pick on of the 15R, 22R and 1K (all in a direct line in signal) which would it be? I only ask because i've got an order for TX2575 in these values, but they wont be ready for about a month and then have to be shipped to me. i've already got some 220R, 1K and 4.7K for the bass and gain circuit (plus some mundorf MKP for the bass, the only caps in the signal path in the entire amp I think??) without the bass switch on there is no caps in the signal path, but unless i'm interpreting it wrong the caps in the bass circuit are. 

 anyway so yeah i've already got those on the way, but i'm making another order at PCX and thought I would grab just a few selected ones while i'm there. I dont want to buy tants for all, especially since the 2W 1K tants are like 10 bucks (no 22R .5W), thats as much as 0.01% matched TX2575 almost. and I dont want to go crazy modding twice with the texas R's on the way, the SMT R's that are there are already pretty nice, so the replacements have to be pretty good to make it worthwhile. i've already got some 100R TX2575, so can just use them and then 2 in series for the 100R (ground channel feedback) and 200R (buffer HiC) and can put 340R and 680R TX2575 in series on the 1K input resistors (close enough), so its only the 4 x 15R and 2 x 22R needed. how about the 75R jon, have you replaced them?


----------



## qusp

and if you guys are wondering what happened to the manual, i'm still waiting for a confirmation of the right email to send it to Ryuzoh for approval before its posted here. I guess hes really busy with the japanese owners, since they arent posting here. I replied twice to the email he contacted me on with no response, so hopefully he sees this


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## theory_87

we can wait =P


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## jamato8

I replaced resistors all at once. Since they are in the signal path I just wanted to get it over with. What 75R? I rarely use the bass control so I won't be modifying that. I do think the tants add another dimension to the music. The crowd noise is deeper and more distinct, the distance to the performers is a little further away, creating a more realistic venue and the notes linger longer due to a blacker background (I assume lower noise floor).


----------



## qusp

R56 and R57 are 75R, I use the bass switch probably for about 20% of my music, only in the first position, all the way is just too much, perhaps with ety it could be good. I think the gain section will show quite a bit of improvement, the feedback Rs and HiC for the buffers sure did.


----------



## SpudHarris

Well I've just bitten the bullit and ordered some AD797BRZ's which should turn up in a couple of days. Jon, Jeremy what adapters do you use for SOIC opamps? I've tried Brown Dogs which seem a little flimsy + they can be inconsistent in size (sometimes have to file them to get them side by side). I've also had some from HK but again some inconsistency with quality, do you guys ever just use DIP sockets? I could really do with a decent source.... (for the adapters that is. Before you say anything about my ipod Jeremy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)


----------



## qusp

I use some pretty speccy adapters designed by the same guy that designed the buffers i'm using. you can get them from germany from svalander audio. actually would be cool if you could get some extra for me, i'll sort you out, just to save on shipping, because it should only cost a few bucks to ship these but he charges a bit for international. they are simply the best adapter i've yet used, allows all sorts of mods decoupling the power supply right there on the little adapter, bypassing to ground, both of those at the same time, very high quality PCBs and you can either use the DIP pin adapters or just use silver wire like I have. they arent cheap, but not over the top and for the quality quite reasonable IMO. saves time too, because you dont have to adapt anything to do these tricks, the pads are right there ready. there are both pads and throughhole. I cant speak highly enough of them after using them for a bit now. first time I could actually say there is an audible difference in a DIP adapter. he doesnt have any metal can or DIP8 type, only SOIC->DIP8, 2 x SOIC8->Dual BDIP8 and dual SOIC8->Dual Dip8. he also has an adapter for SOIC16 chips that i'm interested to try out

 oh and i'm shocked Nigel,how little do you think of me that you think I would take such a cheap shot?


----------



## qusp

you'll need google translate for buying them unless you speak german (well swiss, same thing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) but you can read up on them at the first link


----------



## SpudHarris

Bit over the top for me Jeremy. I was just after simple SOIC to DIP adapters, I can see why you would use the though they are very, very nicely done. How big a difference does the decoupling make? Seen some AD825 modules somewhere decoupled with Black Gates on a similar PCB.......


----------



## jamato8

Those are some fine looking adapters. They are something I would be interested in.


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## qusp

Nigel, decoupling of opamps can and does in some cases make a large difference. many of the chips that we use are simply too fast or sensitive for the places we are using them in, decoupling and bypassing makes quite a big difference to the stability of the chip; audibly superior results follow this. most application notes for the opamps we use will have recommendations for this sort of thing and the closer to the pins it is done the better. these allow us to do it right there on the adapter without some sort of hack. that and the ability to use your wire of choice as the pins is excellent.

 Jon, perhaps we could throw in for an order? i'm in need of some more single and 2 x single to dual adapters; i've used nearly all of those ones. Plus i'm interested in trying out the AD745 on the SOIC16 adapter. I have found his other recommendations to be spot on. the noise specs are very good for this chip.


----------



## jamato8

Yes, that AD745 looks interesting. It seems like I read somewhere someone didn't like it but I can't remember where. I need to go and look at the specs. 

 Those boards with mounting for bypass right at the chip are excellent for the bypass, as you mention, the best thing you can often due and so little distance from the cap to the chip. How much are the boards?


----------



## qusp

there are some other wide bandwidth type low noise SOIC16 chips available too. i'm gonna grab just a couple of the adapters just to try out. they really are all alone in a few things like the existence of a ground pad for proper decoupling there are something like 8 separate places for caps on the single adapter LOL, you can even bypass the bypass of the power supply, while decoupling to ground 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 so you can put a 10uf or 22uf electrolytic across the power supply or from the power supply to ground and then bypass that with a 0.1uf organic polymer smd and bypass that with a 10pf silver mica, which is what I have on my OPA827, AD797 and OPA211 adapters (well the silver mica isnt here yet, but will do. this brought with it the need for me to add that DIP8 socket to the star ground (but connected with thick silver wire and brought up topside) so I can just 'plug in' the decoupling wire, allowing me to still roll without the need of an iron. 

 they work out to ~5USD each for the SOIC8 adapters (all of them single, dual and 2 x single to dual) and the SOIC16 to DIP8 adapter is ~6USD as it comes in 2 pieces. this doesnt include the dip pins, these are extra, but I have a few and anyway I mainly use 23-22AWG UPOCC silver wire, which is actually quite handy as well because the added height of the caps can mean its a tight squeeze, so being able to lean the adapter over or rather skew it with the PCB still level but the wires on an angle, is very handy. so all in all these were a great find and really not that pricey considering the quality IMO; hell browndogs can cost that much in some places. 

 so Jon you wanna go in on an order? you'de be kinda on the way to me anyway, we could get them sent to you and you could pop them in the mail to me if that works for you? i'll email them and see if we can get some sort of bulk deal. i'm gonna get ~8 single, ~6-8 single to dual and 1 or 2 SOIC16, so maybe if we got 50 in total we'd get him down to 3-4USD each instead, spud would you throw in if we can get them down a touch? whether you want to use them to their full capacity or not, they are very good adapters; the highest quality ones I know of. 

 think of it like taking your pooch to the doggie spa 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 giving the chips the best chance of behaving properly because you've spoiled them. these are the tricks that good portable amp designers like Phil larocco, justin and co do for amps without sockets to get the most out of the design (but they do it on the PCB), each opamp will like a slightly different treatment, so you cant just put it on the PCB to this extent in the FiQuest, for example although there is a certain amount of that going on with the switches and pads under the board. with these we can have this fine tuning for each chip in the most ideal proximity and still have them swappable; very cool indeed.


----------



## jamato8

Quantity sounds fine to me. See what you can find out.

 Interesting, I also use 23 gauge silver.


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## jamato8

Thank the audio gods. My Maxxed fi.Q has sounded yuck the past few days with the standard being better and cleaner. It was something, new tants and the BG's doing some sort of dance because the sound is coming back into full force now. I hope but I expect this it just isn't much fun to listen to.


----------



## SpudHarris

Good news Jon, don't know if I'd have your patience. Must come with experience I guess. 

 I just soldered up and installed the BRZ versions of the AD797's and I know, call it placebo if you will but these chips costing twice as much as the ARZ's do make the Fi-Quest sound mighty fine....


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good news Jon, don't know if I'd have your patience. Must come with experience I guess. 

 I just soldered up and installed the BRZ versions of the AD797's and I know, call it placebo if you will but these chips costing twice as much as the ARZ's do make the Fi-Quest sound mighty fine...._

 

I look forward to more of your impressions. I don't remember which version I have. 

 The Maximus seems to be on the mend now. I was listening to other amps as it became unpleasant to listen to and even the headphone out on the iRiver H140 was better, less irritating but that has cleared up now and the sound has become dimensional and without the upper mid, lower high frequency accentuation that grates after a while.

 Oh and I am listening with 4 channel, 3 buf634's in the ground socket and the AD797.


----------



## qusp

ok Jon, I have sent off an email regarding a quantity; we'll see what he says. OP2107 (class A) is sounding pretty nice in the FiQuest at the moment, using 4 channel with 2 x stacked BUF634 and a 3rd discrete unit in there just to try. its a bit squeezy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 the 23AWG silver is I find a nice size, I mostly use 0.5mm (24.5AWG) in my cables, but do sometimes use the 5N 23AWG and its the perfect size for the pins of the adapters. i've been rocking the HD600 today again too while out and about, got a few smiles from passers by which is always nice 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. the FiQuest really does quite a good job with the HD6XX (TWCu portable cable) with plenty of air and slam, in the high gain setting its pretty loud at ~35% and it shows no signs of being underpowered. the soundstage is quite airy and uncongested, bass is tight and articulate and highs are quite detailed and extended for HD600 great for extended periods and totally free of fatigue. I do like these fet input opamps. 797 is still a favorite, but this and decoupled OPA827 are a nice change.


----------



## jamato8

More change today. Extremely open to the point that some of my live Grateful Dead stuff that needed a bit of lift, gets it. Every bit of spacial detail seems to be retrieved, giving more life and presence to the sound. Dynamics both macro and micro are well articulated and life like. A nice turn after a few days of yuck.

 The other day it sounded too bright with my HF2 but they sound very open and well balanced now. If the amp were 10 times larger it would more correct. :^) This amp sounds like a fine home amp and is putting serious hurt on my Woo 6, and I love tubes, oh no, do not disparage my tube amp! Interestingly the maxxed fi.Q has some of the qualities of a good tube amp but also retains those qualities sought after in SS. 

 iRiver lossless with optical out to the dual dac MB-1 to the fi.Q. I use my own high purity silver low profile IC's, which I will compare to anything made.


----------



## qusp

I really am enjoying this amp with the senns, works quite well indeed!! cant wait to get some upgraded components in there and take it to the next level.

 oh its looking doable for the adapters, I may get him down to 4 each; if so i'll cover it and you can sort me out. i'm probably skirting close to the rules here with a GB, but if you want to increase the number or nigel if you want some PM me ASAP, i'm getting them direct from sjostrom the designer now and i'm getting some more reg, and buffer PCBs (jon, want some) as well as grabbing a couple of his awesome looking and very well speced QRV08 SS headamp PCBs, these look like they'll be a big player and i'm keen to put them up against a beta22 at this years meet. i'm getting 2 to run balanced. I want to make the order tomorrow, so please let me know both of you

 i'm thinking more single adapters and 2 x single to dual adapters and less dual to dual. does that sound right to you Jon?

 probably better to PM me to be safe


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## SpudHarris

Cheers Jeremy YGPM.


----------



## SpudHarris

You guys used OPA1641's yet? Sound Plus


----------



## qusp

got some on order; good eh??


----------



## SpudHarris

Mine are here tomorrow


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## SpudHarris

Ok, just noticed something weird. When you guys listen via the PSU (switch position 1) does your orange charge light come on after a while? Mine does, so does this mean I'm running on battery still? I would have assumed that when listening via PSU that the battery would stay fully charged. It's been like it since day one but only just thought that maybe it's not right..... from full charge, after about 5-10mins the orange light comes on.


----------



## Get_Zwole

Sorry to go off topic, but is there any idea of when the quest will be completely ready for the public?Ive been holding off on buying a good portable because it seems so promising.


----------



## SpudHarris

Subscribe to this thread and there should be an announcement. I think it does say when the second batch is out.

 You are wise holding out as this is one fine amp, home or portable.....


----------



## Get_Zwole

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Subscribe to this thread and there should be an announcement. I think it does say when the second batch is out.

 You are wise holding out as this is one fine amp, home or portable....._

 

Thank you Spud yeah im not a guru like some of you lol. I know nothing about the internals so im waiting for a wonderful finished product before i pull the trigger.


----------



## jamato8

I keep going back to 4 channel. There is just more space, pace and solid dynamics. It sounds more live. I know some don't like the design problems of 4 channel and I have yet to make the modification Ryuzoh has brought up, but listening to Janis Joplin "Live at Winterland 68" is as close to being there as I can imagine, without really being there.


----------



## SpudHarris

What opamps Jon? What do you have in Ground? Even with R20 jumpered there is still some hiss on mine...


----------



## jamato8

I don't get it. I can even use my JH13's and I get no hiss. I can hear up to 17khz and cleanly up to 16khz. I can hear hiss on some of my older recordings where you get tape hiss but actual hiss from the amp, none. 

 I am using 4 buffers per channel, 3 buffers in the 4 channel (all buf634) and the AD797 in the L/R. I don't think I have the switch on for more current to the L/R and I don't have the higher bias on the buffers set. With my Ed. 9 the sound is excellent.


----------



## SpudHarris

In 4 channel mode with my JH13's & W3's I get a certain amount of hiss but nothing in 3 channel mode. Just curious is this the same with both of yours or did Ryuzoh mod the Maxxed version before sending it to you.

 I love the AD797's but the OPA1641's just have me gripped at the moment, I'll probably try the 797's again in a week or so unless I get tired of these.


----------



## jamato8

So many choices, so little time. 

 Ryuzoh modified the maxxed version before sending it. I will listen to the stock fi.Q in 4 channel.


----------



## theory_87

My ACS T1 just return yesterday. Using opa2134/ buf634 stack in 4ch mode, it blows my D10 maxxed out of water. And I haven even start tweaking it yet.

 One annoying problem, any reall effective way to secure the batt in it place? it keeps hitting the casing.


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One annoying problem, any reall effective way to secure the batt in it place? it keeps hitting the casing._

 

I put a small square of foam cut from an unused mouse mat (used for storing my opamps) on the top with double sided sticky tape & it works a treat.


----------



## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I put a small square of foam cut from an unused mouse mat (used for storing my opamps) on the top with double sided sticky tape & it works a treat._

 

But won't you have problem sliding it in?I tried some foam and they get compress overtime.


----------



## jamato8

No, mine came with a small piece of foam on top of the battery. It works fine and I have had mine open many times. Besides with a little bit of rattle you can keep time to the music. :^)

 I need to try the 2134. I don't even know if I have any. Are they biased into class A?

 I am sitting here listening to the HD650's and I can't believe how much better they sound with this amp. They develop a real punch, depth and clarity with the modified fi.Q. The thing is you can drive them loud and because of the voltage swing and all the current they just stay open with no collapsing of the sound field. Very enjoyable.


----------



## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, mine came with a small piece of foam on top of the battery. It works fine and I have had mine open many times. Besides with a little bit of rattle you can keep time to the music. :^)

 I need to try the 2134. I don't even know if I have any. Are they biased into class A?

 I am sitting here listening to the HD650's and I can't believe how much better they sound with this amp. They develop a real punch, depth and clarity with the modified fi.Q. The thing is you can drive them loud and because of the voltage swing and all the current they just stay open with no collapsing of the sound field. Very enjoyable._

 

no.
 have anyone tried ad8610 in there yet?


----------



## jamato8

I haven't. What about the 8620? So many opamps, so little time. 

 I did do the modifications to lower ripple by adding caps to the circuitry.

 I am running the fi.Q from the power supply for the Lisa III. I don't think there is much of any ripple from the lab power supply.


----------



## theory_87

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't. What about the 8620? So many opamps, so little time. 

 I did do the modifications to lower ripple by adding caps to the circuitry.

 I am running the fi.Q from the power supply for the Lisa III. I don't think there is much of any ripple from the lab power supply._

 

Not yet since i'm working. Waiting for the qusp to post the tutorial.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What opamps Jon? What do you have in Ground? Even with R20 jumpered there is still some hiss on mine..._

 

Ok, I checked the totally stock fi.Q and it does have some hiss in four channel. I have a buf634 in the ground channel. The R20 resistor has not been jumpered on my stock unit. There is only hiss though when it is plugged into the adapter. The modified fi.Q is dead quiet.


----------



## qusp

hi guys, i'm going to post up the manual to this point in about an hour, but there are a few new bits like the mods jon mentions and a couple others our brothers in japan have done that will need to be added. Ryuzoh sent it to me to proof read and add a few days ago, but i've been slammed, knocked off heaps of work today though, so gonna take a couple hours out to finish it as well as putting together some BOMs later tonight for Jon's buffers. i'll grab some COG 0.01uf decoupling caps for the adapters for you jon, keen? oyou can have both BG and the COG, the COG will excell where the BG will struggle ie very high frequency. BG just cant cope up there, no electro can


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't. What about the 8620? So many opamps, so little time. 

 I did do the modifications to lower ripple by adding caps to the circuitry.

 I am running the fi.Q from the power supply for the Lisa III. I don't think there is much of any ripple from the lab power supply._

 

have you turned up the voltage on the LLP Jon? the FiQ can cope with higher current than Lisa I think, because unless there is an automatic bypass and different set of regs for use on LLP, the battery regs will still be sitting on +/-9V where FiQ can do +/- 12V


----------



## jamato8

Yeah, even Audio Note UK used other caps in the digital circuitry and where applicable, they always chose the BG's for the upper end stuff. I have used Os-con in the digital circuitry but like you mention, there are others that are better for some of the high frequencies. 

 I have proofing I have been doing also and I believe it is done now.

 The LLP puts out 22 volts. I am not sure how difference the 2 volts will make.

 Jeremy, sounds good on the caps. thanks.


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *theory_87* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But won't you have problem sliding it in?I tried some foam and they get compress overtime._

 

Mouse mat foam (mine anyways) is just right thickness it touches the top of the enclosure as it slides in but doesn't need to compress, it's just perfect.

 You guys have mentioned other opamps, OPA2134 and AD8610. I tried 2 x OPA134's and also 2 AD8610's and they both sound good, hell anything sounds half decent in this amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 That said, some opamps seem to shine more than others. For me the OPA1641's and AD797's can't be bettered.


----------



## mesasone

Looks like iBasso took the fi.Quest off their website. I was somewhat confused if it was available to order as I was able to add it to my cart on the website, but the information here indicated the first batch was sold out and the second batch wasn't ready yet. Guess that clears it up.

 A few questions about the fi.Quest. I've been enjoying my IEMs but lately I've found that they can agitate my ears sometimes. The problem seems to stem from wearing them too much - it seems to crop up when I wear them both at work and then again at home. I've decided this is a good excuse to put together a home "rig" for full sized cans.

 One of the big things I'm looking for in my home rig is transportability. I want to be able to carry it from one room to another, out on the patio, etc. For this reason, I'm not really considering using a full sized amp. So far I've purchased a pair of 4th gen iPods (one monochrome, one color) that I intended to do turn into a diyMod. For headphones I'm deffinately going to start out with a pair of Sennheiser HD580/600s as I have been interested in these phones for a long time. I also might look into picking up a pair of AKG 701/702 as I am curious about those as well. I would also like to get a pair of closed cans at some point. Sheesh.

 Anyway, I'm looking for an amp to finish off the set up. Right now my primary candidate is the fi.Quest, based on my satisifaction with my T3 and the positive comments in the various threads in this forum. Also the DIY/tinkerer aspect is very appealing to me.

 Does anybody know the price for the stock amp? The numbers seem to be all over the price, in the original OEM thread it looked like it would be something like $349, but on the iBasso website it was $270. If I understand right, due to currency fluctuations the second batch will be $300 USD? I'm still confused on this.

 Also, what does Ryuzoh's modding service include? Is it all the parts minus the caps? Does he alter the PCB or is it all something I could do myself as I get the time and interest? Or does his keep this information to himself?

 Finally, do you guys have any recommendations on other amps to consider? I'm price sensitive, but do not have a set price limit (yay tax returns!) and do not need it to fit on my pockets or anything like that. Just something that sounds great and is easy to unplug and sent on an end table or nightstand or whatever.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mesasone* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Looks like iBasso took the fi.Quest off their website. I was somewhat confused if it was available to order as I was able to add it to my cart on the website, but the information here indicated the first batch was sold out and the second batch wasn't ready yet. Guess that clears it up._

 

it was never for sale on the ibasso site; that was just a page set up for those of us in the first batch pre-order to follow through and pay, it wasnt open to anyone who didnt have a preorder confirmation code.

  Quote:


 A few questions about the fi.Quest. I've been enjoying my IEMs but lately I've found that they can agitate my ears sometimes. The problem seems to stem from wearing them too much - it seems to crop up when I wear them both at work and then again at home. I've decided this is a good excuse to put together a home "rig" for full sized cans. 
 

works great with both, I use it regularly for both fullsize (mainly HD600 or recabled/woodied denon D2000) and IEMs (UM3X or JH13) 2 extreme different tasks for an amp to deliver on and it didnt falter in the slightest

  Quote:


 One of the big things I'm looking for in my home rig is transportability. I want to be able to carry it from one room to another, out on the patio, etc. For this reason, I'm not really considering using a full sized amp. So far I've purchased a pair of 4th gen iPods (one monochrome, one color) that I intended to do turn into a diyMod. For headphones I'm deffinately going to start out with a pair of Sennheiser HD580/600s as I have been interested in these phones for a long time. I also might look into picking up a pair of AKG 701/702 as I am curious about those as well. I would also like to get a pair of closed cans at some point. Sheesh. 
 

as I said above, it really works well with the senns, fantastic!! forget the 580 though; its a toy compared to HD6XX IMO, the FiQuest drives them no problem at al, so there is no reason to buy them. the FiQuest drives the HD600 about as good as any amp I have heard under 1500-2000 (not DIY)

  Quote:


 Anyway, I'm looking for an amp to finish off the set up. Right now my primary candidate is the fi.Quest, based on my satisifaction with my T3 and the positive comments in the various threads in this forum. Also the DIY/tinkerer aspect is very appealing to me. 
 

cool, I mean its a great amp either way, but its strength is when you take it to the next level by means of modding it to your taste; its also great fun if you are into that sort of thing; pricey though you'll find yourself buying every well regarded opamp under the sun to try out because it can power all of them pretty much, so you dont have to limit your choices based on the available current.


  Quote:


 Does anybody know the price for the stock amp? The numbers seem to be all over the price, in the original OEM thread it looked like it would be something like $349, but on the iBasso website it was $270. If I understand right, due to currency fluctuations the second batch will be $300 USD? I'm still confused on this. 
 

it will be the 350 price for the entry level, the pre-order was a group buy so we got a better price, plus it was pre-order and it was barebones with only the bare minimum to get going; some of us ordered it without caps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Also, what does Ryuzoh's modding service include? Is it all the parts minus the caps? Does he alter the PCB or is it all something I could do myself as I get the time and interest? Or does his keep this information to himself? 
 

no changes are made to the PCB, you'de better ask him what it includes; there is already plenty of info about that though; look at the original thread for the pre-order.though there are no changes to the actual PCB, there are many modifications to the circuit, not just upgraded parts, so i'm not sure whether you have the skill or not. i've done it all myself, but I wouldnt have it any other way


  Quote:


 Finally, do you guys have any recommendations on other amps to consider? I'm price sensitive, but do not have a set price limit (yay tax returns!) and do not need it to fit on my pockets or anything like that. Just something that sounds great and is easy to unplug and sent on an end table or nightstand or whatever. 
 

for the purpose you describe and for anywhere near this price, nope, I couldnt think of an amp I would recommend over this, not even close


----------



## SpudHarris

Jeremy YGPM (off topic)


----------



## qusp

yeah got it mate replying now


----------



## mesasone

Thanks for the reply. I thought the HD580 and HD600 were essentially the same headphone using the same drivers with just a cosmetic refresh? I've also looked at the 650 some, but based on what I've read I think I may prefer the HD600 more. But whatever I get I hope to buy used so I don't have to take a bath on resale if I decide it's just not what I'm looking for.

 I'll have to talk to Ryuzoh when I get closer to ordering, as long as it's just soldering I should be good to go. I have to solder at work on an almost daily basis, both through hole for our legacy products and fine pitch surface mount for the newer stuff, so I'm pretty competent with a soldering iron.


----------



## jamato8

Then you should have fun. 

 I know Ray or RSA prefers the 600 to the 650. I have the HD650 but would like to get the 600 and frankly, you can pick them up at a pretty good price.


----------



## SpudHarris

Just so you guys are aware, Jeremy will be out of action for a few days so may be unresponsive to pm's etc...... He has suspected shingles which as you may know is or can be a really painfull condition. He is still awaiting some info or proofs from Ryuzoh before submitting the manual but I'm sure he'll sort it as soon as he gets the info and is fit enough.

 Best let him get back on his feet and not bother him with pm's.

 If you do get around to looking up the thread Jeremy, we hope you are feeling better soon buddy....


----------



## jamato8

Yes, nasty stuff. I treat pt's with it from time to time. My uncle gets it and it is unbearable for him. Get well soon.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mesasone* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the reply. I thought the HD580 and HD600 were essentially the same headphone using the same drivers with just a cosmetic refresh? I've also looked at the 650 some, but based on what I've read I think I may prefer the HD600 more. But whatever I get I hope to buy used so I don't have to take a bath on resale if I decide it's just not what I'm looking for.

 I'll have to talk to Ryuzoh when I get closer to ordering, as long as it's just soldering I should be good to go. I have to solder at work on an almost daily basis, both through hole for our legacy products and fine pitch surface mount for the newer stuff, so I'm pretty competent with a soldering iron._

 

sounds like you'll have some fun for sure. yes the 580 are essentially the same, but they are not set up the same, for starters they are much lower ohm, easier to drive, but I dont find them to be as open sounding. I prefer 600 to 650 personally, but with a good amp with enough power they sound very similar indeed. the 600 tend to have a more open high end and a bit less warm; this is accentuated when under powered IMO. if you can grab one of them instead of the 580 I would. the FiQ has quite easily enough juice to power them 'properly', in fact even when not on my LLP or the highly modified FiQ adapter (mica instead of the stock 470pf, Nichicon FW 4700 and KZ 330uf caps instead of the rubicon and 14AWG SPC with neotech AC connector 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 is nothing beyond our gaze 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Then you should have fun. 

 I know Ray or RSA prefers the 600 to the 650. I have the HD650 but would like to get the 600 and frankly, you can pick them up at a pretty good price._

 

too right, I picked mine up used in fantastic condition here on the forum for 210

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just so you guys are aware, Jeremy will be out of action for a few days so may be unresponsive to pm's etc...... He has suspected shingles which as you may know is or can be a really painfull condition. He is still awaiting some info or proofs from Ryuzoh before submitting the manual but I'm sure he'll sort it as soon as he gets the info and is fit enough.

 Best let him get back on his feet and not bother him with pm's.

 If you do get around to looking up the thread Jeremy, we hope you are feeling better soon buddy...._

 

thanks Nigel, turns out I was lucky, it wasnt shingles (or at least the doc is pretty sure, although I got some meds anyway.) he seems to think I mustve had an allergic reaction from the washing powder in my clothes or perhaps some sort of insect caused the welts. I just thought it better safe than sorry, because as you note, shingles is nasty stuff and no way can I afford the time out. I was hopeful because i've never to my memory had chicken pox before, but thought perhaps I mustve had it and not realized and I remember how badly it effected my mother, with the huge workload I have been under the last month with trying to get my site up as well as R&D for new products and a big glut of orders arrive out of the blue resulting in only 3-4 hours sleep every night for quite some time now. It seemed to me that the stress just might have been enough to bring it on. 

 all the same i'm going to try to take it easy for a few days. i'm not waiting for info from ryuzoh, he has supplied it to me, but he hasnt replied to any emails I have sent over the last few days asking if he still needed the proof reading or not as it would suck to do it and because I was late find that it was already done. plus I wanted to know if he had the info regarding modding the diablo charge circuit because I want to sell mine. it works fine and ive replaced the batteries with brand new Cameron Sino ones with more capacity, but if I can sell an amp that is better than stock to another head-fier I would like to, the diablo had issues with the charge circuit, thus me needing to replace the batteries after having it for a little while. so yeah the manual has been nearly done for days now, but then when Jon mentioned the proofing had been done I followed up with ryuzoh to see if I should continue because I wasnt feeling well and I havent heard back from him. so i'll just chip away at it in case and post in the next couple of days, because i'm going to take it easy. I had just pasted it all into a document including some small talk and banter, but I decided to try to categorize it somewhat, as well as adding some more info from my own experience; typical me making more work for myself.

 so anyway i've ordered the adapters guys, so i'll work out how we divvy up the shipping etc, plus i've added to my BOM for the amps and some buts for you jon, so i'll just grab it all from you when I have worked out a total. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, nasty stuff. I treat pt's with it from time to time. My uncle gets it and it is unbearable for him. Get well soon._

 

yeah I was sh1tscared when I showed mum and she said thats what she thought it was because she hads it for ages and it totally screwed with her life, the pain was quite significant.

 so thanks guys i'll be in touch


----------



## mesasone

Okay, two more questions guys: how is the battery life on the fi.Quest stock and in the fancy pants configurations?

 Edit: *Actually, I think the I found the answer to my second question in the other thread.*


----------



## jamato8

It runs around 10 or 11 hours as stock and maybe 9 hours in the fancy pants configuration. 

 I just keep running both 24/7 and turning off from time to time. The BG's are forming and the maxxed fi.Q sounds EXCELLENT today. Incredible snap to the bass and a very big and open soundstage. Such outstanding bass control.


----------



## qusp

all my parts arrived from PCX whoopie, time to start cramming things in


----------



## mesasone

Alright, I finished reading both threads start to finish. So if I understand the situation right, although the amps are being produced by iBasso, Ryuzoh has started a company (whose name and logo appear to be secret? ) that will handle sales of the fi.Quest from here on out? Has anybody heard from Ryuzoh lately, it looks like his last log in was on the 8th. I sent him a PM, but he hasn't responded yet (it's only been like 12 hours, however). I know his last posts indicated he was pretty busy.

 Perhaps we could post the specifics of what's going on with the fi.Quest in regards to who to order from, etc, in the first post to prevent any further confusion. Or maybe I'm the only one somewhat confused by the situation.

 Anyway, you guys have been very helpful and I appreciate it.


----------



## jamato8

I haven't listened with my ESW10's for some time. They have been stowed away neatly with the nice soft/hard case that they fit in so well. Great traveling phones I can tell you. Well with the the fi.Q maxxed great fun. Oh not as much depth or as wide as the Ultrasone Ed. 9 but very enjoyable nonetheless and fit with the portable nature of the rig they are connected with, the iRiver H140 with a 120gb drive, the MB-1 to the fi.Q. I almost want to go on the road just to have this great of sound truly mobile. 

 Anyone hear from Ryuzoh?


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone hear from Ryuzoh?_

 

He hasn't responded to my PM, nor logged in for three weeks now it looks like. I don't know if somebody has had e-mail contact with him (Qusp, maybe), but he does not appear to be paying attention to these forum atm. I got my tax return filed and the refund is presumably on the way, so I'm ready to release some money into the wild. Stimulate the global economy and all that.


----------



## qusp

Hi guys, no I havent heard from Ryuzoh in quite a while either. last time I had email contact with him was wen he sent me the PDF to proof, that was ages ago. I have sent a few emails with no reply from either email address


----------



## theory_87

Guess he is busy with the 2nd batch of fi.Quest and MBT


----------



## qusp

yes, but if that was all, then surely ibasso would have heard from him considering they are producing them. I hope hes OK


----------



## SpudHarris

Hey guys you all must have found a place where you a happy now coz no one is posting here any more.

 I got a mail from Ryuzoh a couple of nights back sayin' he's ok, just been real busy sorting out stuff for his business and modding etc.... Had planned to send him mine this week to get it maxxed out but my JH13 just got back after being fixed and I forgot what a great synergy there was between the two 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 so I'll hold out for a little while longer I think.

 I've also made the jump up to imod and will be aquiring a 240gb version any time soon, just waiting for the nod off Ken at ALO for payment. So once I'm maxxed out and have my imod I'll just need to find some cash for the next Jerry Harvey Customs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 & I'll be sweet.

 Do any of you guys use the Fi-Q outside of home? I take mine out here and there but wondered if there was something readily available to protect it, padded pouch or something. If you guys have anything suitable could you share it with us??

 Cheers

 Nigel


----------



## shigzeo

I also got an email from him about 2 days ago with pretty much the same guts as quoted by spud harris. Waiting game is on!


----------



## jamato8

I have just put mine in my coat pocket or if going for a hike I have a small backpack that I take anyways and put it in there along with the MB-1, iRiver and the JH13's. Great combo and just like music at home, true high end.


----------



## RockinCannoisseur

how does the fiquest compare to the sr71a blackbird? 

 thanks


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RockinCannoisseur* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how does the fiquest compare to the sr71a blackbird? 

 thanks_

 

The 71a is a very fine portable. The fi.Q is really, though portable, more like a home amp. It can put out over an amp with plenty of voltage. 

 I have noticed that even though I have had the maxxed version for a while, and I did change out the main resistors to tantalums, the sound has continued to mature. I am amazed at the openness, transparency and dynamics both micro and macro. As I have mentioned a number of times, it really brings new life to my Ultrasone Ed. 9.


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey guys you all must have found a place where you a happy now coz no one is posting here any more.

 I got a mail from Ryuzoh a couple of nights back sayin' he's ok, just been real busy sorting out stuff for his business and modding etc...._

 

Hope he gets all that sorted soon, as I'm ready to rock and roll - and so is my wallet.


----------



## SpudHarris

mesaone - Unfortunately since responding to his e-mail with a question about maxxing mine out I haven't heard anymore from him. Hopefully he will sort things out soon and let people know what is happening regards the second batch. Stay in there coz this amp is so worth it, you won't be dissapointed you waited....


----------



## slwiser

I know I am very happy with mine. I have gotten some opamps recently and planning on testing the amp with those. I am going to do some solder work with this stuff and learn some new things.


----------



## qusp

this amp continues to amaze me, after installing most of the upgrade parts I bought, the thing just sounds plain incredible, if I wasnt building a balanced dual mono amp already I might think twice about buying a second FiQ and running balanced that way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 it really is that good. but the amp i'm building will be better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 when one is afforded more space, 5 times the budget and 4 x the power there are certain advantages that cannot be overcome. for anything close to the price of the FiQ though, I really dont think there is much competition home or portable


----------



## SpudHarris

I wish Ryuzoh would touch base here. I am now ready to push the button to get mine maxxed out but can't source the N 33uf Black Gates anywhere. Does anyone know of an alternative?

 Might just go for the normal and not BG maxxed out.

 ''Normal''

 OPAMP 2 OPA637AP
 BUF 4 BUF634P in L, R.
 BUF 4 BUF634U in L, R.
 Caps:
 2 Sanyo OSーCON 100uF/16V (C3&C4),2 MUSE-KZ 47uF/25V (C5&C6),
 2 MUSE-KZ 33uF/25V (CP1&CP2), 2 MUSE-ES 47uF/16V (CP3&CP4),
 2 Toshin UTSJ 10000uF/16V (C1&C2).


 Black Gate version requires these 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 4 BG N 33uF/16V
 2 BG STD 47uF/16V
 2 BG FK 47uF/16V


----------



## jamato8

.


----------



## SpudHarris

Jon, unless you are offering to sell me 2 x N33uf's that's just teasing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 At least tell me where I can get a couple, I have been searching for hours......


----------



## jamato8

.


----------



## mesasone

Do guys think it's worth picking up the 4 optional caps listed in the OEM thread:

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bt-fi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_(4 of NX Hi-Q 0.47uF/50V; just for preference and if you could obtain)_


----------



## SpudHarris

Does anyone know where to find these??

 2 x Toshin UTSJ 10000uF/16V 

 I'm resigned to the fact that I'm gonna mod mine myself. I've no problem stacking the 634's under the board and thanks to Jon I can get the BG's need. So just need the Toshin Caps and I'm good.


----------



## madwolf

Toshin UTSJ it is available only in Japan

 Some values are available from china search taobao.com but very limited in values

 Best bet is to get someone in Japan to get for you, If you manage to find someone I am interested to join in. 



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know where to find these??

 2 x Toshin UTSJ 10000uF/16V 

 I'm resigned to the fact that I'm gonna mod mine myself. I've no problem stacking the 634's under the board and thanks to Jon I can get the BG's need. So just need the Toshin Caps and I'm good._


----------



## SpudHarris

Well guys, I have managed to make contact with Ryuzoh and you will be pleased to hear that he is well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The bad news for anyone needing him anytime soon is that the DAC's have already arrived and he is snowed under with these and all the mods from the 1st batch. I'm sure as soon as he is able to breathe he will post back here.

 I have asked for an update on the second batch for all those who are awaiting notification and I will let you know as soon as I hear anything.


----------



## jamato8

The MB-1 and the MB-2 will also wow all of you. Excellent dual optical portable dac.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The MB-1 and the MB-2 will also wow all of you. Excellent dual optical portable dac._

 

That's what I'm waiting for, the DAC, do you know if it also has a coax in?


----------



## shigzeo

Well, my maxxed arrived just now - twas sent on Saturday, so not a bad truck-time. Has power - holy yikes. Bass on my FitEar 333 is simply stymied deep despite there being very low noise. Moving up to the DJ1Pro and nothing changes - simply stunning. Review forthcoming (a month or so) but I can already see the outcome. Not too keen on the rattling of the battery, but quite well made - holy crikey!


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wuwhere* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's what I'm waiting for, the DAC, do you know if it also has a coax in?_

 

It is optical in, no coax. There is a AD8616 (MB-1) and OPA2211 (MB-2) version. The soundstage is very wide and deep with excellent imaging.


----------



## shigzeo

Jamato, which DAC are you talking about? I just go the FiQuest in (stunning apart from so-so build quality due to aluminium enclosure (stripped screws)) and may be in the market for a portable DAC. Nasty spending spree though...


----------



## jamato8

Ryuzoh has had a dac made that has dual Wolfsan chips, one for each channel and optical in with either a AD8616 opamp or the OPA2211. It is a small portable about the same thickness as the iRiver h120 and about 3/4 as long and the same width. It sounds excellent. I runs off of either the adapter for power or the internal battery that will run it for around 11 hours per charge.


----------



## shigzeo

Oh wait, I have heard that DAC as it was at the Tokyo OFF meeting! Yes, amazing DAC which I am really looking at. I remember spending most of the time at that table with the FiQuest and the DAC and my favourite, the mystery amp.


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_this amp continues to amaze me, after installing most of the upgrade parts I bought, the thing just sounds plain incredible, if I wasnt building a balanced dual mono amp already I might think twice about buying a second FiQ and running balanced that way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 it really is that good. but the amp i'm building will be better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 when one is afforded more space, 5 times the budget and 4 x the power there are certain advantages that cannot be overcome. for anything close to the price of the FiQ though, I really dont think there is much competition home or portable_

 


 What about some of the DIY offerings? I'm thinking about building a DIY amp myself while we wait to see what happens with the fi.Quest.

 I'm not really sure which amps could be adapted to suite my needs (transportable/battery powered). It seems the M3 is pretty much out of the question, as the specifications say there are no compromises to make it even remotely battery friendly. Building a battery for it would likely be expensive and unwieldy. I don't really know much about the CKKIII. The PPAv2 seems like my best bet. There's also the pimenta, but it sounds like the PPAv2 is worth the extra layout.

 I suppose I should ask this in the DIY section, but if any of you have heard these amps or have any suggestions, I'm all ears.


----------



## shigzeo

Been listening to these since arriving home - that is like... 8 or 9 hours now. And am I impressed? Yes. I couldn't take the FE333 out of my ears, so I went to pick up my wife's bicycle all plugged in. Don't worry, I watched both ways when crossing a street. 

 This amp powers iems very well, but keeps an edge of grace which is addictive beyond all my hopes. 

 My only concerns are the soft chassis which after a lot (or little) op-amp rolling, will soften and strip. It ain't beautiful, but it rocks.


----------



## SpudHarris

Never heard of FE333's please enlighten.....

 Edit: Ignore me, FitEar333 - Got it! They look like a lot of fun.


----------



## shigzeo

They are fun: I think Suyama didn't make them for studio use, so they have fun treble and bass, the musical spice for a lot of 'fun' music.


----------



## qusp

how bloody spoilt are we?? isnt this supposed to be a recession?? HA
 i'm sitting here surrounded by portables that blow my mind and i'm still building something crazy to try to better it. anyone say portable buffalo32v2 with discrete output and volumite digital volume control 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I should really speak for myself I guess, how bloody spoilt am I. well I guess I forgo any hint of a social life, live on breakfast cereal, mango and lime frappes and coffee and work 7 days a week to achieve it, but still....

 Welcome to the club Nathan!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 we are but a select few at the moment, dont forget to put your best smug face on


----------



## shigzeo

hard to be smug when nearly a kg of amp is weighing my jacket pocket down!


----------



## jamato8

Yes, there needs to be a fix for the threads and I think it is coming. 

 I am becoming nonsocial with all this music. I must great people and be friendly,. . . . but it keeps pulling me back. . . . and back . . and back . . . .


----------



## qusp

i've been rotating the bolts, as in only using 2 diagonally opposed at a time and not screwiing the bolts in to hard. its not needed. this way I can share the load. also nathan, just put some more foam or styrex above and below the battery to stop the rattle. what does the weight in your pocket have to do with your capacity for smugness? you arent attempting to imitate or emulate a super portable rig with the FiQuest are you? i'm sure you have one of them already, as do I, but the sound coming out of these amps with JH13 or HD600 sure makes me feel special 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. plus the great thing is its my own brand of personalized special. hehe what a knob I am, but a very smug and happy knob


----------



## jamato8

There should be another batch of the fi.Q's coming up. I look forward to all the smugness going around and all the hob and knob and hbknobbing.


----------



## LionPlushie

oh my. 2nd batch. when will it be announced?


----------



## qusp

exactly. I cant wait for this to get out to the masses. its gonna cause a stir


----------



## shigzeo

@Qusp: thanks for the welcome. Unfortunately, I have 2 stripped bolt holes (on the same side). I have hated aluminium in bicycles and now I realise it needs very careful application in portable electronics too. The amp won't break or anything, but argh.

 I used it till it was dead of battery yesterday - that is how much I love it.


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *LionPlushie* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_oh my. 2nd batch. when will it be announced?_

 

It was supposed to be announced in January, but Ryuzoh hasn't posted any updates. So I guess we have to wait and see.


----------



## SpudHarris

Anyone know what size the screws are for the front/rear? Thinking of putting some thumb screws on as I seem to be openning her up a lot.

 Any of you guys tried a tripple stack of BUF634P's or have you all gone for 2 x AU's underside and 2 x 634P's above? I have a triple stack which just makes it sound BIG, more authority if you like but wondered exactly how many buffers you can use? If Ryuzoh puts 2 AU's underneath can I still keep the triple stack? for some reason I have the number 4 in my mind for each channel....


----------



## T.IIZUKA

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone know what size the screws are for the front/rear? Thinking of putting some thumb screws on as I seem to be openning her up a lot._

 

M2.6x10mm (Hex 2mm)


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *T.IIZUKA* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_M2.6x10mm (Hex 2mm)_

 

Many thanks, appreciated...


----------



## T.IIZUKA

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Many thanks, appreciated..._

 

This can be answered at once. 
 Please question fast. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 My fi.Quest construct ,

 C1,C2 KW 10000uF 16V
 C3,C4 MUSE ES 33uF 16V
 C5,C6 MUSE FX 47uF 50V
 CP1,CP2 MUSE FX 47uF 50V
 CP3,CP4 MUSE FX 47uF 50V

 OPAMP=OPA827,OPA211,OPA2111,ADA4627-1BRZ
 Buffer=BUF634P, BUF634Px2(stack)


----------



## shigzeo

Having finished my review of the Graham Slee Voyager (excellent portable for dynamic headphones and earphones), I am spending a lot of time daily with this amp. It is amazing, holding power much better than any portable headphone amp I have used prior. I still think there are a few technically better iem amps out there, but not much better. The FiQuest is smooth, so so tunable and suprisingly free of hiss with the LT1028 configuration. BB introduce a little more, but I haven't really begun to properly experiment.


----------



## mesasone

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SpudHarris* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well guys, I have managed to make contact with Ryuzoh and you will be pleased to hear that he is well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The bad news for anyone needing him anytime soon is that the DAC's have already arrived and he is snowed under with these and all the mods from the 1st batch. I'm sure as soon as he is able to breathe he will post back here.

 I have asked for an update on the second batch for all those who are awaiting notification and I will let you know as soon as I hear anything._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There should be another batch of the fi.Q's coming up. I look forward to all the smugness going around and all the hob and knob and hbknobbing._

 

Any response from Ryuzoh on when the second batch might be available?


----------



## shigzeo

Lads and ladies - a great customer service story. I received the FiQuest with stripped bolt holes (2x) on the front panel. iBasso don't officially support this as it is an OEM project which I understood better after mentioning in email to them when I ordered a P3+. Well, the P3+ came and so too did a case which is free from defect. 

 It was unexpected and... simply over the top. They had mentioned that in effect, it wasn't their jurisdiction, but ... they came through in spades.

 Thank you iBasso.

 The more time I spend with the FiQuest, the more I realise that it bloody rocks.


----------



## jamato8

Yes, iBasso does a great job. 

 On the sound, I changed out the main resistors for tantalums and then mine also has the Black Gate caps. The sound, well the ability to modify the fi.Q is such a big positive. I have a stock model to compare to and to my ear, the modified does so much more if someone had told me it was the same unit but just modified with some caps and resistors I might not have believed them, the difference to my ear is that great.


----------



## shigzeo

I tend to believe you. I may order another, stock, this time to compare. We will see how finances go.


----------



## shigzeo

Well, the FiQuest is now probably my favourite portable amp. It simply does everything I need and still can power full size headphones very well. A true jack of all trades. What I love is that it also does iems very very well, though I will admit to preferring the P3+ for iems (size is one reason!)


----------



## mesasone

I went ahead and sent Ryuzoh an e-mail asking for an update yesterday, hopefully he will respond. I'd really like to get my hands on one of these amps!


----------



## SpudHarris

Well yesterday I managed to contact reference getting mine maxxed out and he was very apologetic and quite attentive with his responses. I know in some areas he is lacking but I really do like him, he is a nice guy. I just feel he is running himself to an early grave, that guy must be working 24/7.

 So my Fi-Quest is winging it's way to him as I write with my precious Black Gates. I still can't imagine that this amp can be any better, even in the stock mode I have been amazed. I can't wait ........

 Measone, I did ask about the second batch in my last mail to him but haven't had a response yet.


----------



## shigzeo

I will probably not buy another -stock- but I want to. My D4 may go back (sold) to its original owner after my review, so we will see! Haha, funny stuff. I bought the D4 thinking I'd want a DAC, but I have a fabulous one (or two already). Hum bug. 

 I really like how fine the bass tuning features are: great control, adding just the right amount instead of heaps. Great amp, but massive.


----------



## mesasone

I'll buy a stock fiQuest! (I've also e-mailed iBasso as perhaps they have had contact with Ryuzoh - I'm nothing if not tenacious)

 If anybody has a second stock fiQuest they aren't using, I'll take it off their hands... ahem.


----------



## mesasone

No response from either so far... a little disappointed.


----------



## xcluded

is this firquest some sort of custom diy thingy ?

 if it is not , then why ibasso is not selling it ? 

 pardon my ignorance.


----------



## SpudHarris

It all started here........


----------



## mesasone

Forum member "Ryuzoh" retains the right to sell the fiQuest, which from what I've been able to gather he intends to do so through his own company (but details about this company remain scarce.) iBasso is basically just producing the actual unit for him.


----------



## xcluded

i see. thanks for the info pal.

 i would to try this interesting firquest , but seems like i missed the opportunity.


----------



## mesasone

Well, there are supposed to be a second production run coming out, but when/if that happens is questionable at this point.


----------



## Skylab

I received one of these to review, which I will start on sometime in the next week or so. I had not seen this thread until today, and now I'm really looking forward to getting the chance to review it.


----------



## SpudHarris

I look forward to that. Is the one you have stock ? I'm awaiting mine to come back after being maxxed out...... Seems like forever.


----------



## jamato8

That is the hard thing about reviewing the amp. It isn't meant to stay stock. It changes dramatically in sound with some op amp and buffer changes. That it can sound so good with some changes in the plug-ins, only goes to show how good the circuit is.


----------



## Skylab

It was sent to me with several different op-amps. Which is indeed going to make the review a bit of a chore...


----------



## SpudHarris

Well guys, mine has been maxxed out with Black gates etc and will be despatched in a few hours. I can't wait for it to get here. That said, the P3+ with the right chipset is absolutely astonishing, it punches way way above it's weight.

 I will post some pics etc when the Fi-Q gets here and try to describe how it compares to the stock amp.


----------



## jamato8

I agree, the P3+ is underestimated. It is an excellent portable with many options. 

 I look forward to your impressions of the maxxed fi.Q .


----------



## pekingduck

iBasso is selling an amp called the P3-DIY under the "Mini-Audio" brand in China. I was wondering if this is similar to the P3+ or even the Fi-Quest? Anyone heard of this?


----------



## T.IIZUKA

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pekingduck* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_iBasso is selling an amp called the P3-DIY under the "Mini-Audio" brand in China. I was wondering if this is similar to the P3+ or even the Fi-Quest? Anyone heard of this?_

 







 I am seen as well as iBasso P3+. 






 Did you see here?
About Mini-Audio Product


----------



## qusp

well I have finaly fit about as much as i'm gonna fit in this amp and had a chance to sit back and have a good listen, I must say it is sounding pretty amazing!! changes to mine are as follows

 at the moment i'm running AD797ARZ x2 4 x BUF634 (2 per channel stacked) plus a pair of discrete diamond buffers stacked on top of that. pretty much all resistors in the signal path have been replaced, all in the gain setting section are shinko tantalums, except for the gain setting I use most (the middle one) is TX2575, ditto for the HiC for the buffers, input R's as well, with the rest of that circuit shinko or carbon films, the bass filter section has some tants and WIMAS except for the setting I actually use (again the middle of 3) for some tunes and with some headphones is now TX2575 but with mundorf MKP 0.1uf tried to fit the new VCAP CuTF for kicks, but nogo, the power supply caps (a mix of large 10000uf nichicon KW, blackgate FK for the buffer section and sanyo SEP for the opamp supply are all bypassed with wimas and/or silver mica..

 I think thats it, not really any room for anything else, oh thats right, for the AD797 I have used the adapters from sjostrom and the supply pins are bypassed with COG ceramic and wimas right there on the adapter, and i've connected a DIP socket using duelund silver foil, connected to the star ground underneath, but the socket is up top so the discrete buffers and OPAMP adapters have a convenient grounding point that is pluggable

 I think my mods may have cost me the same as the amp itself, but man after all is said and done, it sounds superb, seriously superb.

 oh and jon, your package is finally all packed and ready to go, will ship out tomorrow backorders all finally arrived from farnell, been waiting for a single part for ages. Spud had some trouble using the adapters, but I can only assume he didnt use the silver wire for pins that I included, because as you can see I have plenty more in my fiQ than is supplied with the maxxed version and they still fit, you just need to use the wire and then push the adapters with opamp installed over while parallel to the 'floor' will post some pics in the next few days. he sent some extra free version 1 buffer PCBs and i'll send you a couple of them as well use or give them away, up to you; I have too many.

 I too am looking forward to your review Skylab!!


----------



## jamato8

The maxxed is maxxed. Mad Max.


----------



## SpudHarris

Well since the posting has ground to a halt I thought I would ask what Opamps you guys have settled with.

 I'm still using OPA2111AM with stacked buffers (4 per channel) and an OPA1611 in Ground. Ryuzoh modded the 4 channel mode when he maxxed it out and I like it substantially better than 3 channel mode. Also now have switches for JP1/JP2 which is a real nice touch.

 What you guys running???


----------



## kelvanE

QUICK QUESTION (sorry for random/slightly applicable thread) :

 just got my iBasso D4. I have a pair of Denon D2000 with 25ohm impedance.

 Should I put the Gain switch UP or DOWN ??


----------



## jamato8

Use what sounds best.


----------



## shigzeo

Well I've finally got my review of the FiQuest up - took 2 months to get everything straight, but I think I've sussed it. Great portable/transportable amp for a variety of uses. It will probably go to replace my desktop amp unless I really want a bite of distortion!


----------



## theory_87

anyone hear from ryuzoh?


----------



## qusp

nope, I think spud might've been the last person out of us to hear from him, unless Jon has. I should really post some pics of my amp now its undergone such a transformation, it really is sounding utterly superb lately. gonna go through and replace some of the SMD caps for compensation and filter with smd panasonic PPS films, along with swapping in evox/rifa/kemet PPS for the wimas. Then I will have replaced most everything in the amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 i've even replaced the volume knob with a custom made titanium one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 larger for better feel and it looks pretty sweet too


----------



## theory_87

Sound tasty... Too busy lately that I even lack time to listen to my rigs. It really pity that ryuzoh seems to be following doctor Xin foot step. Both made some of the best amp out there.


----------



## shigzeo

By the way, I've been testing the prototypes for the next, smaller version, and all I can say is: hell yeah; Ryuzoh has done a very good job with both versions. I've finished the review, but will go back in about two weeks to clean something up - gonna get that fixed.
   
  Evidently, MST (ryuzoh's company) will be taking orders from June.


----------



## Skylab

Quote: 





qusp said:


> nope, I think spud might've been the last person out of us to hear from him, unless Jon has.


 
   
  I just heard from him yesterday - I have finished my review, and will be posting it soon - I would have it up already, except I am still figuring out the new Head-fi...


----------



## qusp

yeah I havent even tried to contact him really since he was sick, so its not like hes been ignoring my emails. I do think he needs to pick up his game there a bit though, because there has been quite a bit of interest for this amp, not slim big, because you have to be comitted to carry this sort of rig, but from those that are, and those of my friends who have heard it, there is interest to say the least. interested to read your review skylab,since you also know the sound of lisa III very well, will bve interesting to see if you share my sentiments. not that there is likely too much similarity between our two amps at this stage.
   
  any news on the balanced dac/amp unit?


----------



## Skylab

I was very favorably impressed with the fi.Quest - it's right up there at the very pinnacle of battery-powered amps.  I will post the full review very soon - but it will be very positive


----------



## theory_87

Quote: 





shigzeo said:


> By the way, I've been testing the prototypes for the next, smaller version, and all I can say is: hell yeah; Ryuzoh has done a very good job with both versions. I've finished the review, but will go back in about two weeks to clean something up - gonna get that fixed.
> 
> Evidently, MST (ryuzoh's company) will be taking orders from June.


 
  OK. My wallet look like it thick enough to that the damage again.


----------



## Skylab

My review is up, FWIW:  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/214588/review-portable-amp-roundup-37-portable-amps-reviewed-and-compared/2685#post_6614209


----------



## SpudHarris

Great review Skylab.
   
  Didn't notice a P3+ in your ranking though? This is a serious little amp with the correct chipset......


----------



## Skylab

Quote: 





spudharris said:


> Great review Skylab.
> 
> Didn't notice a P3+ in your ranking though? This is a serious little amp with the correct chipset......


 

 Thanks! Have not had a go at the P3+ yet.


----------



## shigzeo

The P3+ is incredible. I've been changing a few op-amps as always. Somehow, the luxury of tweaking for iems and for full size headphones is second to none... haha


----------



## wuwhere

I emailed iBasso yesterday asking for when the balanced DAC and balanced amp will be released. They replied back with June, next month. The balanced DAC has only balanced output but the amp has both balanced and single-ended out. Has anyone here listened to the prototypes of these two?


----------



## shigzeo

No, I've not, but I do intend on maybe buying. MST is also developing some nice new pieces of tech including a pretty good (and small) DAC and... who knows what else


----------



## SpudHarris

I'm now running my maxxed out version with TO-99 (AM) OPA637's and am amazed everyday how good the sound is from this little amp.
   
  I'm still unsure though as to which switch setting to use for listening via the PSU for best results? Does this make a difference? What do you guys use?


----------



## shigzeo

Did you just call this a 'little amp'? I am really liking it as from any DAP, but especially DAP'd. I've not done a battery run down for the prototypes yet (and am behind), but oh well.


----------



## SpudHarris

Haha, yeah I suppose it's big in comparison to the P3+ but when I'm listening and I look across at it I still can't believe the sound it outputs. It's astonishing really. I'm using it with my newly aquired 240gb imod and lossless tunage. It powers my DT880/600ohms with finesse and it's detail city baby!!


----------



## qusp

depends if you want to be charging it and using it at the same time. if not then go with the full blown 24v setting.
   
  I have to say though guys, i'm gtting some pretty sh1t battery life these days, I wonder if it was damaged more than I thought during the first few days when there were issues with the circuit?? anyone else getting only a few hours? I get maybe 2.5-3hrs driving JH13. sure i'm using a fair bit of current due to high current mode and the discrete buffers, but I should be getting more than this.only using low or sometimes medium gain. havent tried it portable with HD600 for a little bit either, I hate to think how little I would get with that. I always keep charge in the battery and I followed the charge circuit mod to a tee


----------



## shigzeo

When testing the battery, I get about 9 hours when running IEM's and about the same with headphones - straight burn that is.


----------



## qusp

hmm, me thinks I need to talk to the guys at ibasso for supplying a unit that was bound to damage the battery, I mean I have it pretty maxxed out, but there is no way it should be getting this little runtime. less than lisa  read the beginning of the thread and you will see what I mean by 'mod' basically fixing their mistake which seems came too late to save the battery from damage as I feared


----------



## SpudHarris

Yeah I remember the issue........ I'm getting about 8-10 hours with the JH13's but can't use the HiC mode with the 637's as any turn of the pot sounds like it's doing serious damage. I'm sure Ibasso will just fire you over a new battery unit if you refresh their memory about the initial probs.


----------



## shigzeo

What do you mean by a 'turn of the pot sounds like it's doing serious damage'. Do you mean the sound of intermodulation distortion? If so, that happens at high volumes with lowΩ earphones. I've not found a combination solution for this.


----------



## SpudHarris

We've all heard it at some point, that loud scratching sound. Some say it can be DC offset which as we know is an ear/headphone killer. It is slightly less with the 637AM's compared to the BP's but still quite loud. Quiet as a mouse when there is no music playing, the pot makes no sound at all. Turn on the sound and it's fine as long as you don't try to adjust the volume. Any ideas?


----------



## jamato8

I use the 637 and get no DC offset with the stacked 634 buffers X3. The amp just sounds purely excellent.


----------



## qusp

are you using 4 channel spud? I wonder if the mods really fixed the offset issue in 4ch mode


----------



## shigzeo

Quote: 





spudharris said:


> We've all heard it at some point, that loud scratching sound. Some say it can be DC offset which as we know is an ear/headphone killer. It is slightly less with the 637AM's compared to the BP's but still quite loud. Quiet as a mouse when there is no music playing, the pot makes no sound at all. Turn on the sound and it's fine as long as you don't try to adjust the volume. Any ideas?


 

 So this hasn't to do with higher volumes out-of-ear when testing the volume pot, but any volume level in a certain configuration? I've not had problems there, only when under load and driving to high volumes.


----------



## qusp

no, i've experienced this problem spud is having and its not the same one you are talking about Shigzeo.
   
  Spud, are you using a DIY LOD with your IMOD? this problem can occur if a capacitor is oriented incorrectly as well, not just with DC offset


----------



## SpudHarris

haha I know why you asked Jeremy but no still using the ALO triple pipe. I've been so busy with work that with the exception of soldering chips to adapters DIY is non existent at the mo....
   
  It's 4 channel mode with switch 1 (HiC) active, it's fine until I flick that switch and it's not too bad with the DT880/600's or the HD600's more so the JH13's.
   
  Had a play to find a set up to complement the DT880's analytical signature and ended up with OPA2111AM in 3 channel mode and HiC. This set up works well with all my phones .


----------



## BigTony

Where can one order 1 of these puppies?


----------



## SpudHarris

Ryuzoh's company is Musashi Sound Technology but I googled that and found only Samurai references ........
   
  Tony, I have sent Ryuzoh and e-mail to find out for you. When/If he gets back to me I'll hook you up. If you ever get down to the Midlands, shout me and you can have a listen.


----------



## qusp

hehe, yeah well I mainly mention it, not because you are all thumbs , but because although Blackgate NX are specified as non-polar, they still can induce some ill effects if soldered in the wrong pole. regardless of it being DIY or not it may still be the issue 
   
  I only ever use 3 channel, I find 4 channel really isnt as stable as it should be. pity it doesnt save power not using it though as the circuit is always drawing power regardless of whether its being used or not. probably works well with some, headphones, chips and some combinations of components; but in my build I have never really fell in love with it. I find the sound to be much more solid in 3 channel and the soundstage, although maybe not quite as wide, to be more coherent and tangible


----------



## shigzeo

I think MST Audio will be up next month - in website form. These damn websites are so hard to get up (TWSS?)
  Again, next week, I'll give a bit of love to the new FiQuest prototypes - which are long overdue. MST is probably going to kill me next time he sees me!


----------



## qusp

lol, yeah they are hey.... mate my life never has enough moments in the day.


----------



## shigzeo

Speaking of websites... when is... yours up?


----------



## qusp

........ I thought you were already hinting at that above lol, thus my sheepish answer. dunno mate, I can never find the time and I doint know who to get to finish it off. not connected in that way anymore. would be awesome to find a headfier to barter with  I have it all packed on DVD and its mostly done was thinking I might use wordpress or a blog to start off so its easy for me to do myself with limited time


----------



## SpudHarris

I am gonna find time to put a DIY iMod cable together fairly soon as I have some nice wire lay around not doing much. As long as the NX are connected to both signals the same way there shouldn't be any issues should there?
   
  You are spot on about 3 and 4 channel mode Jeremy there is a definate wider SS with 4 channel mode and a little more air but with the DT880/600's that needs toning down slightly as the synergy is not good. 3 channel mode with HiC sounds spectacular but if I have the OPA637's in L/R I can't use the JH13's at all


----------



## jamato8

I can use everything in 3 channel wit the 637. It is in 4 channel that the problem arrises and was noted by Ryuzoh as not the best option. He emailed me some time back that 3 channel was really the best way to go, in his opinion. I have used the 4 channel and really liked it but I did notice some DC offset and to me, it isn't worth the risk as I did not measure it so I don't know how much there was but I don't want to risk my monitors finding out.


----------



## SpudHarris

John are you using the HiC switch?
   
  Just for clarity I have OPA637AM's (TO-99) with the 2 stacked BUF634AU's on underside and BUF634P's above. Should I just have single BUF634P's if running in HiC mode?


----------



## jamato8

I don't think it matters on the number when running HiC but if portable of course it will not last as long with more buffers going. I have used the HiC on and off.


----------



## SpudHarris

Well like I said, I can't use the 637's with the JH13's in HiC mode they just hiss and crackle and even without HiC they still get some scratching from the pot. It's no biggie though coz I still rate the OPA2111AM up there with the best I've heard in this amp...


----------



## jamato8

Ok, I have the 2111AM here. The little piece sticking out is for the number one pin I presume. I need to pop it in. 
   
  Ok, the tit sticking out goes to pin 8. Very nice sounding op amp. Great clarity, imaging and bass. Very different sounding than the 637.


----------



## SpudHarris

Yes it is a superb opamp I also have one in one of my P3+.
   
  I have the ADA4627-1's in the other  The ADA4627-1 is probably close to the OPA637 in terms of detail and resolution and I like it a lot but the 637 just has a musicallity that the 4627 doesn't.......


----------



## jamato8

Well I have let it burn in over night and can hear a difference from yesterday in comparison to a couple of other amps that I compared it to as reference and not relying on memory or speculation. The sound is very different from that of the 637. A little brighter and very transparent. Very fast and dynamic but there is, right now, a bit of an edge. Will wait and see but it is one of the better op amps.


----------



## SpudHarris

Glad you like it John 
   
  They retail here for £40 each but I had a source that didn't quite realise the value so I got a few as stock for a ridiculous price. They are definately one of my favourite opamps, if not ''the'' favourite. May have to get 2 x OPA111's next......


----------



## jamato8

I didn't realize they were actually made in the USA. Yes they are expensive. Heck you can buy complete components for that price but you get what you pay for, sometimes. In this case a very interesting op amp.


----------



## SpudHarris

Karma


----------



## jamato8

Karma can be good. :^) The op amp, now on its 3rd or 4th day isn't changing and really presents a dynamic contrast within the music and removes any haze to the music, if well recording. It really lets you see into the venue. It has a very distinct sound or signature. It just sounds high quality 
   
  I run the maxxed with 4 buffers per channel. You can mix the HA buffer but for some reason my two modified ones aren't working. 
   
  It looks like I will be going to Micronesia for a couple of years and the fi.Q will be going with me. I do have one fi.Q though that I may sell.


----------



## SpudHarris

Well I know you won't struggle to sell it. Big Tony seems interested in one, he's coming to visit at some point for a listen to mine.... It'll go like a shot.


----------



## qusp

well looks like I have to hope Ryuzoh will help out. ibasso has told me I must contact him about my damaged battery. i'm not sure it should be his responsibility TBH, the unit was manufactured by ibasso incorrectly with the voltage reference not dialed in right; set to cut off at a voltage the battery wasnt capable of attaining. this would seem to me to be a manufacture defect rather than a design flaw unless it was specified that way (but then everyone would have had the issue). I hope he does, or i'm out in the cold with a device that uses a custom battery pack. and a device I have spent a great deal of money and time modifying. I timed my run time and its actually under 2hrs at 1:48 in 3 channel and low gain driving JH13 in HiC (triple stack BUF634) and with my discrete buffers removed so they cannot be blamed.
   
  its very annoying these shipping and saftety guidlines; there are LiFePo4 and LiPo4 batteries available that will deliver far more current than NIMH, with much higher capacity and more compact size. the best of them also now with a decent charge circuit will have no noticeable difference between performance new and after 300 cycles. that and are capable of delivering upwards of 100Amps burst :eek:


----------



## jamato8

I was wondering about the battery. I did adjust the charge circuit on both of my fi.Q's and they are working fine. They were manufactured to Ryuzoh's specifications and since it is his company that sells them, I would think he would have the answer. I can totally understand your frustration though. 
   
  I am not familiar with the batteries you mention. Can they be adapted over to the fi.Q? I will have to read up on them. 
   
  edit: looks like an interesting battery chemistry with advancements being made rapidly. I am still looking forward to the nano tube technology that will multiply the density by a factor of at least 10 to give you a AAA with a mA rating of at least 10 amps.


----------



## qusp

yeah just sending him an email now, if he specified them to be set at that point then sure its his doing. hopehe replies soon, but I wonder if he even has any of the battery packs this version of FiQ uses since he seems to have made the new ones smaller according to Shigzeo.
   
  yeah i'm thinking those batteries could be repurposed for the FiQ, theres plenty of space. I would have to make my own battery out of single cells or out of 2 half batteries as they are not bipolar packs. runtime and output power should be dramatically improved (mainly transient response though). i'm buying some from them for my portabuffalo dac/amp project this week, so maybe i'll grab some extra. there should be no problem shipping the batteries on their own, the problem comes when they are connected in circuit and therefor live.
   
  lipo4 and other lithium batteries were outlawed on flights that also carry passengers by the FIAA, as some older lipo4 and lion were known to explode. these packs have an inbuilt battery monitor to ensure there is no over or undercharge on any cell in the pack, power is cut off if this happens. they need a smart charger with a very specific program.  so yeah they are actually very safe, but with these kinds of energy densities you would hope so, the sure would make a nice boom


----------



## jamato8

Most all camera batteries are Ii-ion but they go on planes. That is what all my cameras use and I pack them with me. 
   
  I would be interesting to find out if something else would work in the fi.Q but I know that Ryuzoh waited quite a while for these. Most all the fi.Q's were sold in Japan and just a few in other parts of the world.


----------



## shigzeo

I'll get photos up in the next couple of days. The prototypes have to go back to Ryuzoh (unless I bite...) anyway. Will be testing them with my favourite iems and headphones a little more before I get reviews going.


----------



## theory_87

Time to camp here for new pictures


----------



## shigzeo

hold yer horses! haha. pictures on the horizon...


----------



## jamato8

I have been listening more and more with the maxxed fi.Q I have. Such a great amp. Beautiful rendering of the color of sound. The transparency and layering is excellent. I am glad it has room for the likes of Tantalum resistors and everything else I plowed into it. With an in between size from that of a small portable to a home amp, and yet yielding results of a good home amp, who could ask for more? :^)
   
  I am using the Ryuzoh concept, MB-1 dac made by iBasso with the dual Wolfsan dacs and optical input.


----------



## shigzeo

That is a great DAC


----------



## jamato8

Yes it is. I have the MB-1 and MB-2. The 2 being slightly warmer sounding. They take "portable" to a whole new level when you have a lossless feed going to either one.


----------



## qusp

Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> Most all camera batteries are Ii-ion but they go on planes. That is what all my cameras use and I pack them with me.
> 
> I would be interesting to find out if something else would work in the fi.Q but I know that Ryuzoh waited quite a while for these. Most all the fi.Q's were sold in Japan and just a few in other parts of the world.


 

 sorry I should have qualified that, they have most certainly been outlawed worldwide freight wise on planes that carry passengers (look it up) I think perhaps you can only have them on your person, but as far as freight you cannot send an ipod by airfreight with most carriers. fedex allow it, but otherwise anything that does not allow you to actually turn the device off (not just put to sleep) is not allowed on flights in the cargo hold. just to send a device with over a certain capacity (mah)  by fedex internationally requires filling out a form which is the same form you must fill out to send explosives, ammunition, hospital waste etc.hazardous good in other words and with auspost its not -possible at all to even send an ipod unless the battery has been disconnected
   
  nothing but NIMH will work in the FiQ unless you use an external charge circuit, the charge program used by the FiQ will cause LiPo4 to explode. yes I think you will find that Ryuzoh waited so long for these cells because it became difficult to use lion or other lithium based cells (I could be wrong there, just a guess and if you remember there was a delay because the batteries had to be changed) try to order some lion batteries online from mouser shipped internationally and see how you go, used to be able to do that, but now you can load your cart with them but you get a warning and cannot purchase them. NIMH is fine, because it doesnt have these issues and you can purchase these, lion may only be purchased if shipping is local


----------



## jamato8

Thanks for the info on the batteries. I have a bunch to take with me as it looks like we are moving to Micronesia for a while. 
   
  I am finding the OPA2111AM to be very different. As I have mentioned, fast and very transparent. It is like popping a very high quality circuit into the fi.Q, which it is.


----------



## applevalleyjoe

Quote: 





qusp said:


> yes Ryuzoh, even though the average OEM owner is a tweaker at heart and most (and I stress most ^^) have got a clue
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


 qusp, now that you switched caps, how does it sound? Has this change improved  anything *significantly*? What were the stock caps that you changed?  Appreciate your time. Thanks.


----------



## fark

Hi guys!
   
  Sooy if my english isn´t the best, hope I make myself understood anyway!
  Also sorry if I post in wrong part, maybe there´s a better place for me to post a question even tho it will take forever for me to search in english, Hope you be patience with guys and I really hope that I´m not disturbing anyone by doing this? 
   
  I searched for ibasso and came here, I have been looking for good headphone amplifier here in Sweden but can´t find any.
  I have tried a small one (Nuforce Icon Mobile) with DT770 (don´t know the ohm? but either 80 or 250?) and it was way to weak for that.
   
  So I wonder if one of those ibasso is good enough for driving a Beyerdynamic headphone (770 or 770 pro at 80 - 250 ohm)?
  If so, what modell is the best for DT770?
   
  I don´t know much at all about audio and what´t good or not, but these ibasso´s look very good compared to Icon Mobile I think?
  Will connect to DT770 (don´t know version yet) that I listened to the other day and enjoyed + a Sansa Clip+.that I alredy have at home.


----------



## SpudHarris

Fark, your English is fine buddy....
   
  I have the Fi-Quest and this is able to drive my DT880 600ohms easily. I also Have a couple of ibasso P3 + amps and in High gain they drive my HD600's (300 ohm) again to very satisfying volumes so you should be fine.
   
  Nigel


----------



## fark

Thanks SpudHarris, that is good to know!  Then some 80 or even 250 ohm DT770 should be just fine
   
  I use some translations, dictionarys etc.... quite often to accuire some of the words in english as well as spelling,  I´v got to use that until I´m moore used to write and read in english I suppose? I find grammar to be the most difficult tho.
   
  Anyway thanks for responding! I´m a total noob when it comes to audio, but I did listen to MusicFidelity X-can V8P with a pair of Beyerdynamic 770 the other day and realized I havn´t heard decent audio before after all, hahaha!  My HD555 is ok but leak to much for portable use and the Icon Mobile pherhaps isn´t powerful enough to use as amplifier with many of the decent headphones I think?
   
  Do you know where these iBasso amps is built and sold from, what country I meen?
   
  I´m in Sweden and if I should buy anything that is worth noore than approximately 60 USD/40 GBP including shipping fee I have to pay a lot of tax/customs fee etc if it´s from outside EU, so I have to take that into consideration when bying stuff.  Also I have ordered some products from China in the past but wouldn´t dear to try again I think? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Paid for but didn´t arrive, at all! I have bought from UK before tho = no customs + great service.
   
  Sorry for all off topic´s


----------



## mesasone

iBasso is based in China.


----------



## qusp

Quote: 





applevalleyjoe said:


> qusp, now that you switched caps, how does it sound? Has this change improved  anything *significantly*? What were the stock caps that you changed?  Appreciate your time. Thanks.


 

 you do know i'm talking about the power supply adapter dont you?, that post is like 6 months old, yes it did improve the bass slam when using the adapter; but significantly?? I cant remember mate, it was too long ago to describe and I hardly used the adapter at all for listening before i changed ALL of the caps. I have also changed ALL of the caps in the amp, plus adding bypass caps that werent there at all, well everything in the power supply and amp sections of the amp anyway. it would be easier for me to tell you I havent changed. I also changed ALL of the resistors in the signal path and some that werent 
   
  but I see you havent got the FiQ anyway, so i'm a bit confused at your question
   
  @ Fark haha sorry is your english good enough to know why that is funny?? immature I know. 
   
  your english is perfectly fine mate and your grammar is better than many native english speakers. Its certainly better grammar than mine when i'm prattling on on here; others will attest to that.
   
  yeah i'm with spud, the FiQ has quite easily enough grunt to do a fine job of driving even the hardest headphones; nothing to worry about there either. I use mine for my HD600 regularly and it sounds fantastic, even compared to many home amps it sounds fantastic. I have also used DT880, K701, D2000 (woody), T1 and probably some others I cant remember, while they were staying at my place awaiting surgery and in recovery 
   
  indeed ibasso is in china, but these amps are sold from Japan I think these days. either way you have nothing to worry about (except tax) ibasso is very good to deal with. not only do they ship, they ship quickly!! I have dealt with very few companies that ship as quickly and reasonably as ibasso


----------



## fark

Thanks mesaone.
   
  Ok, is there anyone that have had problems getting their delivery (now or in the past) from iBasso or do they have nothing but good recommendations? 
   
  I thinking about my horribly exensive buisseness with china companies in the past of course, but trust me I really do want to find a good china based company that I can trust to get my deliverys, I´m sure there are plenty out there and their markert are growing so I´m gonna have to eventually I think. 
   
  So if your (Head fi users) experiences is that iBasso is a solid trustworthy company that will give me a big confidence boost, then I might end up order a iBasso amp in the end?  There isn´t many people here in Sweden that I know of who can point me in the right direction regarding the right company to order from?
   
  Again, exuse my english, grammar etc...


----------



## SpudHarris

ibasso are a solid company for sure and they send stuff quickly. They are top notch 
   
  Best of luck
   
  Nigel


----------



## fark

Thanks again SpudHarris!
   
  So much easier to make that desition when I see you write that, don´t have to worry then.
   
  I took a peak at their site and a lot of t´stuff seems to be out of stock now, so they´r probably popular?


----------



## SpudHarris

What is it you are looking for? Headphone Amp alone like the P3+ or with a DAC like the D10? I'm only asking coz I know someone selling a P3+


----------



## fark

Sorry it took so long to resont Spud, didn´t meen to be rued by not responding for days!
   
  I actually don´t know what amp yet, I have a Icon Mobile with Sansa Clip+ right now. Besides that I reacently bought Beyerdynamic DT770 pro/80 cause my HD555 leaks to much outside, got a killer deal on them and have seen others mod theirs here so I thought I give it a go as well.
   
  The thing is that I feal my entire gear is not up to standard, I want to enjoy my music moore.  I do kind of like the Beyers cause that is my kind of sound I think, but of course I feel like so many others about the thundering loose bass + a little weak mids.etc.. 
  So my plan was like this:
   
  1: I have spoke to Vinnie about bying a refurbished ipod video 5.5g and have him mod it for me. (that´s gonna hurt my budget wallet)
   
  2: Mod my Beyers with cable, dampening etc...  I have found guide for modding 770 pro/80, but still have no ide where to find cable that is good and still doesn´t cost me $300?
   
  3: Swap out the Icon Mobile for something with a little moore of everything in it!
   
  When I use dac in Icon via usb I can hear a clear improvment I thougt pherhaps imod id the way to go for me? Moore portable than nettop so do speak.  Do you think that can be a clear improvment for me compered to Clip+ and Icon Mobile?
   
  Is the D4 moore powerful than D10, or is it that other way around or equal?   I have looked at some iBassos + other amps now but don´t really have a clue where to start?  There are so many amps that I know nothing about, but amp comes after imod so I do have some time to sort it out. I can´t afford to upgrade it all at once.


----------



## shigzeo

I want to update this thread with information about the prototypes. Poor Ryuzoh has lent them to me for a long time (bless his heart) and I'm only finally able to post this week.
   
  I've been doing really exhaustive testing. The prototype is very much a hybrid design of the FiQuest (similar power circuitry) and more typical iBasso models. As far as I can tell, you can only change the op-amp and this is a good thing for now.
   
  The included op-amps are 100% stable at all volumes, at all gain settings, and with every headphone. They come laid out on BrownDog adapters. There is very little noise, excellent channel balance, and good sound.
   
  What I do notice is that some op-amp configurations in the prototype are more stable than on the FiQuest, and some are less. The OPA2111KP for instance, is brilliant on the prototype, but unfit for iems at loud (and I mean ear busting volumes, here) volumes on the FiQuest. Conversely, the original does better with other chipsets. 
   
  I think MST are the current company to beat in terms of customisable portable amps. But if you are really, really into customisation, the original is LEGO while the new one is Playmobil.


----------



## qusp

yep, i'll keep mine thanks


----------



## shigzeo

And I'm just about ready to report officially on the Cio Mb DAC from MST (FiQuest). Amazing little DAc.


----------



## bt-fi

I am sorry by poor English. I tell the recent situation of Ryuzoh. I'm a member of the development team of MST fi.Quest PJ. And I'm a partner of Ryuzoh.
   
  Ryuzoh is tired out because of overwork. Therefore, he cannot post the recent situation.
 However, Ryuzoh is alive    He is concentrating on a thing that is more important than manufacturing, development, and sales now.
 Please contact me if you want contact with Ryuzoh. Ryuzoh come back surely!


----------



## SpudHarris

Well give him our best regards for sure. I often think of him when listening to my maxxed out Fi-quest. I like him a lot and it sounds as though he has finally realised he can't keep going like he was, he's burned out.
   
  Anyway, there's a lot of people here who care for him so hope he comes back soon.
   
  Nigel


----------



## bt-fi

Thanks SpudHarris.He will come back soon.

 He was't burned out.　He is promoting the project that surprises everyone.　I am executing one of the projects.
 I cannot open details in the contract to the public yet.


----------



## shigzeo

Those magical words of yours... they are doing more damage than good! I am sure all eyes will be turned onto this thread now! Thanks for the updates.


----------



## bt-fi

The exchange rate is appreciation of the yen than before. Therefore, we might raise the price of fi.Quest. But it's still undecided. We plan to sell fi.Quest 2nd batch in September.


----------



## shigzeo

Well, I am quite impressed by the prototype as well, so thank you for the hard work.


----------



## bt-fi

Quote: 





shigzeo said:


> Well, I am quite impressed by the prototype as well, so thank you for the hard work.


 

 Thanks a lot, shigzeo. We make more powerful, more pungent amp. on the other hand, we are planning to make small amp. I am looking forward to reading your review.


----------



## Choochoo

I am so glad that I eventually manage to add FiQuest to my collection. It convinces me to set up a portable rig again. Edition 8 is lifted to a new level and no longer grounded to my desk.
   
  But at the moment, I want to look around for the best LOD matching. What I currently use (DIY cryo copper) is good. But perhaps a copper (ground) and silver (signal) combination might be better.


----------



## theory_87

Quote: 





bt-fi said:


> Thanks a lot, shigzeo. We make more powerful, more pungent amp. on the other hand, we are planning to make small amp. I am looking forward to reading your review.


 

 Did i read more powerful? OMG... fi.Quest is so good and hardly any portable can beat it and i can't imagine the term "MORE POWERFUL" =P


----------



## qusp

I find my fiquest smells quite bland; I have however been lusting after something 'more pungent' hehe. seriously, you guys should look into lifepo4 batteries, I have some spare that i'm thinking of putting in my fiquest for more pungency  of course I would have to disable the charge circuit, install a 7 pin charge jack for balance charging and use the one in my smart charger, which allows me to charge each of the 6 x 3v3 (nominal) cells separately to the desired level. this would mean my battery would last pretty much indefinitely, well 3000 cycles and still at 80% capacity. I wouldnt expect to need to charge more often than every few days, meaning 10000 days, or 25-30 years and still at 80% lol. I may not do it of course, i'm wondering if there is a balanced fiq on the horizon


----------



## shigzeo

I will update this thread with my final impressions of the smaller FiQuest amps in about a week. I am as impressed with them as I am with the FiQuest. Both perform very well, but I find that each has a special niche. The FiQuest I'd overall recommend more to those wanting the utmost in voltage while the smaller version, for bouts of current fed into hard to drive iems AND normal headphones. Either amps version (original) or smaller is top notch in terms of build and bottom-up customisation at the manufacturer's.


----------



## SpudHarris

Cheers. Looking forward to the write up....


----------



## wuwhere

So many iBasso threads.


----------



## Choochoo

Thanks Shigzeo. I will look forward to your write up.

 By the way, I am wondering if the smaller version of fi.Quest is already on sale? I wrote to bt-fi to ask this question, but didn't get his response.


----------



## richbass

is ibasso selling this ?


----------



## jamato8

The fi.Q was sold by Ryuzoh and was manufactured by iBasso. They did not sell them, it was a contracted item Ryuzoh's specifications.


----------



## wuwhere

Will there ever be a balanced fi.Quest? It will probably be awesome.


----------



## jamato8

That would be very interesting. I haven't heard of anything though. Maybe email Ryuzoh.


----------



## shigzeo

Quote: 





choochoo said:


> Thanks Shigzeo. I will look forward to your write up.
> 
> By the way, I am wondering if the smaller version of fi.Quest is already on sale? I wrote to bt-fi to ask this question, but didn't get his response.


 

 I don't think that the smaller version is for sale yet. Nor the DAC, but I could be wrong. Both are very good. I have no idea what the final size will be but, the smaller FiQuest is about half the volume of the original (my guess).


----------



## Choochoo

Thanks again Shigzeo.
   
  I already emailed Ryuzoh. Hope we will soon hear back from him about the release date of both new-smaller fi.Quest and the DAC.
   
  Mind you, the size and appearance of my fi.Quest did cause a stir at Mumbai airport today when I flew trough to Goa.


----------



## smial1966

Hi,
   
  having read some astoundingly good things about the iBasso fi Quest, would someone kindly inform me how to purchase one.
   
  Thanks!


----------



## SpudHarris

Watch this thread. Ryuzoh informs me that the long awaited second batch will be along soon.......... I may get one just as a back up coz bang for buck this amp is awesome


----------



## shigzeo

I've got news that for headfiers, there will be another 30 FiQuests arriving soon. People, this is THE day! (or it soon will come.) Good news for all, I assume. The FiQuest is truly able to replace a desktop for any headphone I've thrown at it and it is excellent for iems. Cannot wait to see more reactions.


----------



## qusp

I would agree with one caveat, it definitely hangs with some VERY good desktop amps in the under 1K pricerange, but its not quite up there with the very best. but this should not be expected, it drives everything I have tried and well. I still love it, even though it doesnt get quite as much use these days.
   
  for the money, unbeatable bar DIY .
   
  to make FiQ balanced, would be a totally different amp.


----------



## hyato

that's sound really great news!
 I have been following this thread and want the fi quest for sooooo long, so when will be the ordering start or was preordering already started? Can I made a reservation now ?


----------



## shigzeo

I don't know when MST will be back online, but you'll be able to ask him yourself - he said he'll be back to Headfi very soon. I look forward to it particularly as I am excited to see the full version of his MST portable optical DAC. 
   
  @Qusp: it is true that there is some room for error in preferences, but overall, the FiQuest is my favourite desktop replacement amp. In fact, it is so good with high Ω headphones that going to a more powerful mains amp (they exist for sure) feels wasteful. All of my full-size amps cost more, but for overall enjoyment with a WIDE range of headphones, the FiQuest is my favourite. That said, I go ampless often too!


----------



## wuwhere

It would be awesome if it could also have a coax SPDIF input like the D12.


----------



## jamato8

The fi.Q is an amp only, no need for input like the D12. 
   
  I really think it depends upon how you line up the fi.Q. I have 4 634 buffers per channel and a metal canned OPA2111, which takes the 2111 to a new height. In this configuration, the sound is excellent and a little different, in a good way, than anything else I have tried.


----------



## wuwhere

I was referring to the MST portable DAC from that link.


----------



## shigzeo

Only optical for now, but it is very good and quite compact. Battery lasts a long time too, but I have no idea how to judge how long as my unit (now returned) was pre-production. It is dual-DAC, so ostensibly, you could get it to wring out balanced signals.


----------



## jamato8

Oh, yes the dac is very good (MB-1). I am listening to it right now feeding the fi.Q. This is a very fine pairing.


----------



## Choochoo

I've spent the whole week with Stepdance, which is a great amp, and found that I still prefer fi.Quest better. Waiting to hear when the new batch will be available. Think I need to order another one


----------



## qusp

yeah I think you will find it hard to beat personally


----------



## jamato8

I know not everyone likes Black Gates but mine with them sounds excellent and having the tantalum (nos pre magnetic ends) resistors that just fit on the bottom of the board and used in the signal path, sure don't hurt the sound. Mine is open and dynamic and just plain clean sounding.


----------



## qusp

yeah the tants are a squeeze alright, had them in there before I went for all Zfoils. bit too 'musical' for my taste, but still excellent and i'm only splitting hairs. nothing wrong with BG, I just dont think they are all they are made out to be ie. all things to all circuits. I see people dropping them in place of oscons for digital decoupling, or in place of NPO ceramics or films for same and IMO its a bit stupid to use them somewhere that requires lowZ at very high frequencies, because they just cant do that, they have high Z at very high frequencies, all electrolytics but the best oscons do


----------



## jamato8

Oscons are what I used for digital work. They work best there and I like the BG's in the analogue area. When I redid the D1, I used BG's all over the place but Oscons in the digital section. Audio Note UK used BG's everywhere, which I didn't agree with. I do like the transformers that AN UK built though and have a few, including the silver to silver transformer for the digital input on a dac and two huge output transformers in my dac, dual C core nickel steel things that are in storage in Tucson. :^(.


----------



## ryuzoh

Getting back from the mess....guys
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
First I have to apologize my long absence from here and intermission. Just had continued to launch my own company and devoting myself to.
   
My office is located in Akihabara Tokyo, may be most famous electric parts city in the world.
To be supplied components easily, also to find them quickly.
Our company will deal in not only amps/dacs, LODs and IEMs exporting will be participated.
   
   
  2nd batch fi.Q are slightly evolved from the 1st in noise reduction and charging voltage adjustment.
Nigel, had you notified them about this?
   
BTW, informations for 2nd batch as follows......
   
2nd batch fi.Q is manufactured 100, and 60 (as twice release each 30) for domestic and 30 for overseas, and the rest will be undefined.
Just I can say is securing and being able to export 30 fi.Qs for Head-fi'ers surely. It will be processed in the next of early release for domestic 30 preorders.
 *Preorders for the 30 amps for head-fi'ers in 2nd batch will be scheduled on mid Nov.* Reason why so few in this batch is coz I couldn't expect the result of evaluation by Skylab………just appreciating to Rob
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Coming 3rd batch as 100 amps are already existing and can be provided to head-fi'ers more. Thus you need not rush and just time will solve.
   
Unfortunately, as you know and despite of whether your familiar currency are appreciated or not, Japanese yen is under extraordinary appreciation versus USD.
This is very hard issue to export from Japan, so please understand and give us your leniency for price increasing.


----------



## smial1966

Nice to hear from you again Ryuzoh,
   
  Fantastic specifications for the revised fi.Q models.
   
  I'd like to reserve (if this is possible) the -  *"FX Limited edition (as all-rounder)" $450 (ONLY 50sets) - model.*
   
   
  Thank you kindly.
   
  Andrew.


----------



## qusp

preorder in November, you cannot reserve anything I wouldnt think, especialy with such low numbers, when released I think it will be a race.. finally others will here the sound of FiQ, lucky for me I have headstart on modders and everyones fiq is different from another if you want. biggest advantage of new version seems smaller case, if you choose this as an advantage, I like larger; more room for premium parts


----------



## qusp

and yes, welcome back Ryuzoh!!


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote: 





qusp said:


> when released I think it will be a race..


 

  Given the situation, would be honour for me........
   
  Just wondering your battery pack.
  Also, to aim longer runtime and reduce noise floor when charging, several updates can be applied to 1st batch models.
   
  I'll notify you and jam of instructions later.


----------



## jamato8

Ryuzoh, will the newest fi.Q have the 4 channel capability? Size has been mentioned. Are you changing the size of this new release or is this a continuation of the same case size as before? 
   
  I am listening with 4 buffers per channel and the 2111 metal can opamp and the sound is excellent.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


jamato8 said:


> Ryuzoh, will the newest fi.Q have the 4 channel capability? Size has been mentioned. Are you changing the size of this new release or is this a continuation of the same case size as before?
> 
> I am listening with 4 buffers per channel and the 2111 metal can opamp and the sound is excellent.


 

 Mainly nothing will be changed in dimension and circuit from the 1st batch, needless to say 4ch available.
  (Just fixing the bugs what I had mentioned here before)
   
  Yeah, your S/N003 is already applied BG-maxxed config, and my new attenuator with TAF.
   
  What you want to confirm about seems to be "Cio Vitt (representing as voltage is the thing)", it will be mixture of fi.Q and P4.
  Main circuit will be based on fi.Q, but also its size will be smaller, and fitting with iPod, 12V class circuit, planning 3 configs.


----------



## SpudHarris

Welcome back Ryuzoh......
   
  We are very excited about the future products you are bringing to the table. The Fi-Q has an excellent reputation, as Qusp rightly said I think there will be a race to grab them when pre-orders are available. I'll be bumping this thread for you (not that it will need it)......


----------



## qusp

OK I will stick with the full size version, its packed full of goodies that I doubt would fit in anything smaller.I will send you an email to figure out what we will do


----------



## Choochoo

Welcome back Ryuzoh.
   
  I will surely order* "FX Limited edition", maxxed with additional **4 BUF634s*.
   
  From now on, I will have to keep checking this thread to check when the preorder is formally announced.


----------



## qusp

revisited LT1028 tonight, wow such a nice chip, the speed is pretty incredible. I dunno about you guys, but even with my JH13 I always prefer the FiQ in mid gain, rather than low, to me the sound opens up, becomes more solid and is much more dynamic. now this makes perfect sense with chips like the 797 and 1028, as they are more linear in mid to high gain than low gain. anyone else find this? of course it probably also has something to do with the fact that only the mid and high gain sections of the gain circuit are populated totally with TX2575 Zfoils 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 with ANOTE tants in the low gain.  I level matched to of course
   
  ryuzoh: I bought the 25 turn pot for the mod you suggested, I cant believe I thought it was a different pot, I was confused because I thought there was only one, but the 797 has been in there untouched for so loing that I was picturing the layout differently to what it is. though I did open it up to pop the OPA1641 in there a couple of weeks ago, with very good results.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote: 





qusp said:


> revisited LT1028 tonight, wow such a nice chip, the speed is pretty incredible. I dunno about you guys, but even with my JH13 I always prefer the FiQ in mid gain, rather than low, to me the sound opens up, becomes more solid and is much more dynamic. now this makes perfect sense with chips like the 797 and 1028, as they are more linear in mid to high gain than low gain. anyone else find this? of course it probably also has something to do with the fact that only the mid and high gain sections of the gain circuit are populated totally with TX2575 Zfoils
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  When using super low-noise types as LT1028(A)/1128(A), LT1115, AD797......*JP1/JP2 should be jumped and SW2 as ON*.
  If you wouldn't, might be oscillating and wasting currents
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 can you check it over with oscilloscope?
  
  I think the pot you mentioned might be Bourns 3296, however not 3296Y or 3296W types.
  The pot should be Y or W class.
  And I can make new attenuator beneath ALPS pot with tantalum resistors (discontinued Shinkoh's and called as TAF in Japan, Jam's were already applied) for you after fixing.
   
  Or, you can find the pot as"3296W-202LF-ND" in digikey.


----------



## FreeBlues

I likely missed this, can someone post the dimensions of this beauty?


----------



## qusp

yes I applied all the mods and switched all switches for the 797, which has been in the amp pretty much solidly since I bought it and I was under the impression that all those settings would suit the 1028 as well. yeah I got your email with the part number for the resistive pot, I will give that a try before I send it to you, but it would have to be pretty miraculous change to transform it into a practical amp from the short play time I have now. this short time is still just enough for the short trip I must do every 2 days into the city and back, so its still serves a purpose when I feel like using the FiQ. if I was going for different R's in the pot I wouldnt go shinko tants, I wouldnt like the slightly musical edge they have applied over everything. no point using Zfoils in the gain, feedback and main signal path if i'm going to use tants in the pot, maybe something else though, this mod sounds interesting. the shiunko you talk of are a sort of grey/purple yes? nice resistors for sure, but the sort I would like to mix and match, not as an overlay over the whole signal, maybe though, i'll think on that


----------



## jamato8

The tants I used are the NOS non magnetic. The new ones have a slightly magnetic end and have a slight harsh sound compared to the NOS. I would use good carbon like Riken Ohm and tants. 
   
  You are sending in the fi.Q? I get good run time on mine. I don't know how long but long enough. With the MB-1 being fed with lossless and the new SysConcept multifiber toslink (it really does improve the sound much to my surprise), I get some very excellent sounds. 
   
  AudioNote UK went to the new tants for higher voltage purposes but I never had any problems in any of my tube equipment. They know they aren't the best sounding. Too bad they don't just go back to the original formula.


----------



## qusp

I have bot ANOTE and shinko tants, I believe the shinko are NOS from PCX and are running out, I think I just prefer high end metal film R's to tants, I like a little tant flavor, but the material itself does not IMO lend itself to ultimate transparency. yeah i'll send the amp back to ryuzoh as soon as I move in a couple weeks time, so I can put an accurate return address and details on it.


----------



## jamato8

I use the tants in 2 watt. They make a difference in the sound. The current and voltage doesn't matter, I still use 2 watt. They are transparent and very neutral, to my ear but not in the .5 watt variety. 
   
  So your amp is being sent back?


----------



## SpudHarris

Jam, Jeremy, I'm planning on sending mine back to Ryuzoh for an update. What is all this talk about pots and attenuator mods? What benefit does this offer?


----------



## qusp

Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> I use the tants in 2 watt. They make a difference in the sound. The current and voltage doesn't matter, I still use 2 watt. They are transparent and very neutral, to my ear but not in the .5 watt variety.
> 
> So your amp is being sent back?


 
   
  yeah i'm gonna send it back and see if he can sort out this battery issue, its never been great, but has just continued to get worse, i've put up with it because the thing sounds so damn good I havent wanted to be without it, but now I have a pretty amazing sounding DIY dac/amp I can afford to give it some time for R&R. if he can do something nice with the pot that would be cool, just not sure if I want tants on the input, just a personal taste thing, after shelling out 30 bucks a piece for 0.005% matched sets of naked Zfoils i'm not all that keen on putting some tants in front of them, although I suppose they can only be better than the resistive element inside the pot. I have done pretty much all the updates, plus a few of my own (though the battery was an issue before I did any of this, so its not that) but i'm sure he'll find something to do 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I do run the amp in high current high bandwidth mode with the buffers wide open as well, but that should not be causing life to be this short, I think it probably stemmed from that first incident with the charge voltage not being right and my amp being left on charge, I have made the adjustment 2 times since then, as I presume the battery continued to deteriorate and could not hold or reach the level set and would keep striving for it, just like the initial problem.
   
  i'm running upgraded R's throughout the gain, bass and signal section, SMD films scattered throughout, sanyo oscons for the amp section and blackgate FK for the buffer section, both bypassed with the wimas plus smaller rifas and even smaller SMD films. i'm searching the rifa catalogue to see if any of their amazing PHE range lowZ power supply caps will fit.

  
  Quote: 





spudharris said:


> Jam, Jeremy, I'm planning on sending mine back to Ryuzoh for an update. What is all this talk about pots and attenuator mods? What benefit does this offer?


 


  
  well the pot is the first resistor on the input to the amp, when signal is at its lowest and thus most susceptible to noise, the resistive element in the pot even for decent one like this is still not fantastic, so I assume that Ryuzoh will play with the shunt resistors or something, I havent looked at the internal schematic to the pots we have, but will do that in the next week. so it should lower noise, perhaps make for better channel matching and increase transparency


----------



## jamato8

On my preamp I built, with balloon 27 mesh plates from 1930, I used a bypass type of attenuator. I have a DACT in there but by using the right value to ground and in the signal path you only have that one resistor in the signal path. I learned about it maybe 8 years ago. You could use the cheapest pot available and what it is, is a shunt to ground with the signal going through the single resistor. 
   
  Jeremy, I bet your batteries are shot from being overcharged. I was lucky in that mine got warm but not bad and then I adjusted it for the right voltage. I never liked the coarseness of the pot for that adjustment and need to get the one Ryuzoh suggested but it is hard to get anything here or to here on Pohnpei from many electronic companies. They want way too much for shipping.


----------



## xxoom

Are there any alternative choices instead of "4 BG N 33uF/16V "?
  They're the only ones that hard to find. Is it very important for the BG-maxxed version?
  Regards.


----------



## jamato8

I heard from Ryuzoh that the 30 fi.Q's for the states are being assembled for shipment. It will be nice to read more impressions.


----------



## qusp

Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> On my preamp I built, with balloon 27 mesh plates from 1930, I used a bypass type of attenuator. I have a DACT in there but by using the right value to ground and in the signal path you only have that one resistor in the signal path. I learned about it maybe 8 years ago. You could use the cheapest pot available and what it is, is a shunt to ground with the signal going through the single resistor.
> 
> Jeremy, I bet your batteries are shot from being overcharged. I was lucky in that mine got warm but not bad and then I adjusted it for the right voltage. I never liked the coarseness of the pot for that adjustment and need to get the one Ryuzoh suggested but it is hard to get anything here or to here on Pohnpei from many electronic companies. They want way too much for shipping.


 

 yep thats what I figure too, cant just be the charge circuit needing further adjustment, not this level of problem. indeed a 25 turn pot would be better, maybe i'll suggest he use one for the replacement. will be sending it off in the next week or so, i'm at the new house now and settled in. will be great to hear more impressions of this great amp from the new batch


----------



## smial1966

How on earth does a non-technically minded audiophile order one of these superlative amplifiers?!?
   
  Having messaged and emailed Ryuzoh regarding the fi.Quest to no avail, should I conclude that these amps are reserved for head-fi reviewers and not ordinary music lovers?
   
  Any information would be greatly appreciated.
   
  Cheers.


----------



## jamato8

Quote: 





smial1966 said:


> How on earth does a non-technically minded audiophile order one of these superlative amplifiers?!?
> 
> Having messaged and emailed Ryuzoh regarding the fi.Quest to no avail, should I conclude that these amps are reserved for head-fi reviewers and not ordinary music lovers?
> 
> ...


 
  From what I was told there are 30 going to preorders. If they have all been pre ordered already I don't know. No, as far as I know they were sold to anyone who ordered them. As far as communication with Ryuzoh just keep trying. Maybe put in the subject line a question in caps.


----------



## SpudHarris

Have you read the latter part of this thread? I'm sure there is supposed to be a notification here when the next batches are available...
   
  I'm listening with mine (maxxed Black gate version with OPA2111AM) as I type via a lossless imod and my T1's just never sounded so good. This amp punches sooooooo far above it's weight it's just unbelievable really. I will never part with mine.


----------



## jamato8

Yes, I am using the metal can 2111 in mine with all the maxxed items in tow. It just lets the music flow.


----------



## smial1966

Thanks for the responses. I'm so envious when people rave about the sound quality of this amp, especially when knowledgeable audiophiles gush lyrically and eulogise how good it is.
   
  I messaged Ryuzoh on this thread when he re-emerged last month and requested a pre-order, but was informed that orders would be taken from mid November. Unfortunately it seems that I've now missed the metaphorical boat and the amps have already been allocated. HO HUM.
   
  Guess I've keep trying to contact Ryuzoh.
   
  Cheers.


----------



## ryuzoh

As I wrote at #547, I accept 30 preorders for 2nd batch fi.Q.
  Please send DMs for my account, and we will response to your email address *within several days*.
  Payment will be via Paypal.
   
  We are assembling first 30 2nd batch fi.Qs for domestic orders right now, and we can't pay attention to this thread continuously.
   
*Also, copy/paste and complete below form to the DM.*
   
  [Models]: *Basic/CC/WC/MD/FX/BGkit*
  [Additional more 4 BUF634s as maxxed]: Y/N
  [Power supply voltage]: 100-115V/200-230V
  [Additional note]: 
  [Your name]: 
  [Your email address]:
  [Your address]:
  [Your phone number]:
   
*Also, Cio MB DACs available.*
   
*IMPORTANT:*
*U.S. Post doesn't accept package weighs more than 16 oz as EMS due to their security reasons.*
*So, we're going to use UPS for shipping to U.S. especially, and shipping cost **may be increased slightly**.*


----------



## smial1966

Hi Ryuzoh,
   
  Thank you for replying as I know that you're a very busy guy.
   
  I have sent you a private message requesting a fi-Quest pre-order and have completed the form as requested in your message posting.
   
  I'm trying to contain my excitement at the prospect of owning a fi-Quest!
   
  Cheers.


----------



## wuwhere

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *ryuzoh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> *Also, Cio MB DACs available.*


 


  How do I order a Cio MB DAC?


----------



## smial1966

Hi,
   
  I took the order process to be - copy and paste the form in Ryuzoh's posting above, then complete and send it to him in a private message.
   
  Hope that this is correct and helps you, although if I've misconstrued Ryuzoh's message perhaps someone would enlighten me.
   
  Thanks guys.


----------



## jamato8

Quote: 





wuwhere said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I would guess email through HeadFi. the Cio MB is very, very good. It is a portable dual dac with optical input. I use it all the time. I would also get the new 1300 fiber optical cable from Sys Concepts. I can hear the difference in the sound as in cleaner and all areas of material are improved because of the much greater band width and lower modal dispersion of this optical cable. Craig of Whiplash was amazed at the difference.


----------



## radiohead7

I guess the pre orders are over.


----------



## jamato8

Quote: 





radiohead7 said:


> I guess the pre orders are over.


 

 Email Ryuzoh with an order. Only way I know of to find out. 
   
  I use the fi.Q much of the time. I am using the HD650's right now and just for kicks, which I have tried in the past, with some bass heavy music I tried to get it to clip. My ears where actually moving (only for a few seconds as the sound was way too loud) and there was zero distortion and there was till more volume control to go. My Woo 6 could never do that. The fi.Q I have exhibits total control over the 650's and really improves the bass delivery and all other areas.


----------



## qusp

HD6XX with FiQ is a very good match indeed and you are totally right on the amount of control, there are definitely many respected home amps that do not possess the power and control of the FiQ


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> I use the fi.Q much of the time. I am using the HD650's right now and just for kicks, which I have tried in the past, with some bass heavy music I tried to get it to clip. My ears where actually moving (only for a few seconds as the sound was way too loud) and there was zero distortion and there was till more volume control to go. My Woo 6 could never do that. The fi.Q I have exhibits total control over the 650's and really improves the bass delivery and all other areas.


 

 I have to say my Woo 6 does get more air time of late but I'm using ALL the pot pretty much to power my DT880 and T1's. The Fi-Quest powers either with ease but of late I've been grasped by the romance of Tung-Sol 6SN7 Round Plate tubes in my Woo. Then again those 2 tubes cost about the same as my Maxxed Fi-Q 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  They are a totally different listen, both superb but in reality the Fi-Quest is more flexible, more powerfull and of course better bang for buck when getting into the realms of Round Plate and Bad Boy Vacuum tubes for the Woo to compete with the sound the Fi-Q offers. I don't think I'll ever part with mine.....


----------



## radiohead7

Where do you find the black gate caps? Is there a place that anyone would recommend or do you have to have connections with someone? Or is there an alternative to the backgate caps?


----------



## jamato8

Quote: 





spudharris said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Yes the round plates are nice. I have a few sets of them in NOS. One is in beautiful boxes that are in perfect condition, think and deeply embossed in blue ink on a light tan thick paper box. I have the Sylvanias as well in the 1952 version and many others. 
   
  What I didn't get with the Woo 6 was the power I always wanted. With easier to drive phones it is exceptional though and my Woo 6 was maxxed to the hilt with about 9 hundred dollars of additional parts. 
   
  My fi.Q with the tantalum resistors and changes I have made, sounds very 3D and has a textured bass that is very realistic, when everything is right (good recording and the phones doing what they should).


----------



## jamato8

Quote: 





radiohead7 said:


> Where do you find the black gate caps? Is there a place that anyone would recommend or do you have to have connections with someone? Or is there an alternative to the backgate caps?


 

 Not everyone like BG's. I find they take quite a while to form, otherwise they don't sound their best. They are getting very hard to find since none have been produced for a few years now. There are other good caps but I don't think any that have been produced to fill the same place as the BG's. I don't think the market is strong enough, just too niche.


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> Yes the round plates are nice. I have a few sets of them in NOS. One is in beautiful boxes that are in perfect condition, think and deeply embossed in blue ink on a light tan thick paper box. I have the Sylvanias as well in the 1952 version and many others.
> 
> What I didn't get with the Woo 6 was the power I always wanted. With easier to drive phones it is exceptional though and my Woo 6 was maxxed to the hilt with about 9 hundred dollars of additional parts.
> 
> My fi.Q with the tantalum resistors and changes I have made, sounds very 3D and has a textured bass that is very realistic, when everything is right (good recording and the phones doing what they should).


 

 I can give those 1952 Bad Boys a good home if you don't need them anymore hehe. I've got a couple of pairs of round plates and a pair of 6F8G round plates but alas still searching for the Bad Boys, boo hoo.........


----------



## qusp

is there a tube driver stage option for the FiQ now?.......


----------



## SpudHarris

I wish...........Sorry Jeremy, my fault.
   
  Back to the Fi-Quest!


----------



## jamato8

Yes, I just jammed them onto the top of my fi.Q. Wow the difference!! :^)  I have about 14 in nice green Sylvania boxes of the 1952 that I found in a . . . . . junk yard. Yahoo. . . 5 bucks each. . . 
   
  Anyway, I put a OPA627 into the ground channel of the fi.Q and prefer that to the buf634. This is with the HD650. Good extension and a dynamic sound. More as I listen and see if there are any irritating qualities. 
  .


----------



## qusp

Quote: 





spudharris said:


> I wish...........Sorry Jeremy, my fault.
> 
> Back to the Fi-Quest!


 


  haha was just a friendly nudge, nothing to be sorry about. we';ve had a tradition of discussing fairly wide ranging audio related stuff in here on occasion, far be it from me to stand in the way of that.


----------



## jamato8

627's didn't work in the ground channel. I started to get a lot of DC offset for some reason. Back to 3 channel and sounding good with 4 buffers per channel in wide bandwidth and using some OPA637's. The OPA637BP or the 2111 metal can both sound very good. 
   
  Edit: The 4 channel works fine now. I must have had something wrong. I am using the 627AP in the ground channel. Great sounds.


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> 627's didn't work in the ground channel. I started to get a lot of DC offset for some reason. Back to 3 channel and sounding good with 4 buffers per channel in wide bandwidth and using some OPA637's. The OPA637BP or the 2111 metal can both sound very good.
> 
> Edit: The 4 channel works fine now. I must have had something wrong. I am using the 627AP in the ground channel. Great sounds.


 

 Must give tha OPA627 a go in ground with my OPA637AM's. This was the combination I had in my PPAv2 for ages, oh sweet memories of my inocence. I thought I was completely off my trolly spending £200 on that PPA back then


----------



## jamato8

Yes, the 627 in ground does it. Very open and dynamic.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> Yes, I am using the metal can 2111 in mine with all the maxxed items in tow. It just lets the music flow.


 
  I measured OPA2111AM burning-in gradation with THD+N....
  Initially it had 0.0263%, and got 0.0102% in next 6hours, and achieved 0.0058% after 50 hours (1kHz sine wave, 1Vp-p, 100Ohm load with VA-2230A).
  Also OPA637SM required longer term to be burnt-in than PDIPs.

  S/N 027 as BG sound stage ver.2 with OPA2111AM
   
  Well, I'm testing ADA4637-1ARZs now and still burning-in.
  Generally resembling sound with 4627s but slightly detailed.
  And 4637BRZs will come soon and looking forward....
  Quote: 





radiohead7 said:


> I guess the pre orders are over.


 

 Not yet.


----------



## jamato8

Ryuzoh, what are the large caps you are using in the fi.Q in the picture?


----------



## SpudHarris

and.......... where can I get one (at least) of those sexy cases to store my opamps. Very cool !


----------



## ryuzoh

[size=medium] 
  Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> Ryuzoh, what are the large caps you are using in the fi.Q in the picture?





  C1/C2 as STD4700/16V, C3/C4 as N33/16V, CP1/CP2 as STD47/16V, C5/C6 as FK100/16V(25V in same package), CP3/CP4 as N33/16V.
  This is all BG, so that I had much labour to adjust sounds from this configuration.
   ​[/size]

  Quote: 





spudharris said:


> and.......... where can I get one (at least) of those sexy cases to store my opamps. Very cool !


 
  This is anti static IC case and I can get here around in Japan, takes $5, so useful to store.


 If you want, advise me when you request something update for your fi.Q, Nigel.
  I'll add it.


----------



## jamato8

I would like 4 of those cases for the op amps. :^)
   
  I know the other caps, I was wondering about the two large. Ok, they are the std BG. 
   
  So Ryuzoh, any preference by you on the metal can 2111 or the 637BP? 
   
  Ryuzoh, that is a very strange avatar. It scares me, just a little. lol
   
  Oh, the multi turn pot and transistor for the charging circuit work great. The 25 turn is 25 times better.


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> I would like 4 of those cases for the op amps. :^)
> 
> I know the other caps, I was wondering about the two large. Ok, they are the std BG.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I've searched here in the uk and can't find anything like those cases. I will send my Fi-Q for an update and ask Ryuzoh if he can supply a few.
   
  And I have to agree reference the Avatar, that nose looks like a pair of ... don't know if I'm to say??? I do love the Edition 8 styling though


----------



## jamato8

....


----------



## qusp

Quote: 





spudharris said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 yes that avatar is ....erm.....very manly Ryuzoh 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








 I will take a few of these cases too when I send my FiQ back for update/fix. i'm back listening to OPA827 again in 3 channel mode


----------



## qusp

Come on John, spit it out, what were you going to say?...hehe


----------



## SpudHarris

I've gone back and forth between the AD797BRZ's and OPA2111AM and love them both equally. They have two different signatures as you would expect but both excellent....


----------



## ryuzoh

[size=medium][size=medium]     Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> So Ryuzoh, any preference by you on the metal can 2111 or the 637BP?
> 
> Ryuzoh, that is a very strange avatar. It scares me, just a little. lol





    
  Well, I always prefer AP to BP but OPA602BP. And I can say 637AP or 637SM are the better in 637 family.
  2111AM is one of my favorite, but not regular in my fi.Q. I always use the can with BG-equipped fi.Qs, they are completely companion with.
   
  Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpudHarris*
> 
> I've searched here in the uk and can't find anything like those cases. I will send my Fi-Q for an update and ask Ryuzoh if he can supply a few.
> 
> And I have to agree reference the Avatar, that nose looks like a pair of ... don't know if I'm to say??? I do love the Edition 8 styling though





    

  The avatar is using a cushion of character named as Yaruo from Japanese BurretinBoard, who has irritative face.....
  Not the BXXXs
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Also, applying of FET-input types as like OPA2111, OPA627 should make better results with JP1/2 turned off, Nigel.
  And thanks for nice greeting card
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qusp*
> 
> I've searched here in the uk and can't find anything like those cases. I will send my Fi-Q for an update and ask Ryuzoh if he can supply a few.



  Thanks, Jeremy
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 want to update yours... and I'm waiting Buffalo II for my home rig. 
   
   
  The IC case has larger sized one takes $12, as below,

  This is so suitable for heavy users as like you, John, Jeremy?
   
  I'm simultaneously modding my friend's SM3 (seems to be late no switch version) now....

  Just a hell stuff...... getting BG flavoured and grains are fine....​[/size]
​[/size]


----------



## ryuzoh

DP...


----------



## jamato8

On the SM3 if you double up the diodes on the input from the batteries it sounds better or get rid of it with a small plastic spacer so the end batter can only work one way. 
   
  Very cute avatar Ryuzoh. Reminds me of,  err or . . . yes sir, very nice.


----------



## SpudHarris

Sorry guys to take this off topic slightly. It's just that this thread is where I know the right guys frequent to answer my question. Thanks to Jeremy I am the proud owner of a 240gb iMod but a couple of weeks ago I used my last BG caps on a cable for my WA6. I have searched and searched and can't find a) what value/voltage they were and b) Where I got them from.
   
  I got a feeling they were NX 4.7uf 6.3v but thats off the top of my head......
   
  John, Jeremy, Ryuzoh could you pm me if you can help.
   
  John, I've scored a genuine set of Sylvania ''Bad Boys'' so I'm cool  matched dates of 31st week 1952.
   
  Ryuzoh, I do want to send my Fi-Q for an update but I'm hearing horror stories about getting stuff through customs your end, are you aware of any issues?


----------



## jamato8

I hope there aren't problems, I just sent mine in for servicing. I don't know about the caps, I will look around.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


spudharris said:


> a) what value/voltage they were and b) Where I got them from.
> 
> 
> Ryuzoh, I do want to send my Fi-Q for an update but I'm hearing horror stories about getting stuff through customs your end, are you aware of any issues?


 
  Must be 22uF or 47uF/6.3V NX Hi-Q, 4.7uF/6.3V class NX isn't existed.
  4.7uF/50V is being, but smaller than iPod original coupling value 10uF.
  I think the shop where deals in the appropriate values almost run-out the stock.
   
  Japanese customs are severe and always giving inflexible attitude.
  They frequently open packages and inspect the stuff inside, both inbound/outbound.
  But I'd never experienced as such they destroy, or heavy taxing.


----------



## qusp

yep Ryuzoh is right, 22uf or 47uf NX-HQ is the stock value. I have a few, but i'm sorry mate its so hard to find them that i'm reluctant to let any go as I need for work. I do have some 47u/PK that will fit. let me have a look around for you, but last time I checked and found any, they wanted stupid money for them, over 15 bucks each and i'm sorry, but IMO BG just arent worth that much
   
  and yeah Ryuzoh, the case looks excellent, i'll grab 1 or 2 for sure as I can use one for opamps and another for all of my other ICs like jfets, power jfets, mosfets etc which I have an even larger collection of. 
   
  nice one on the buffalo II, have you ordered it yet? if not you should consider the ackodac, it is IMO a better dac. I have the buffalo II as a portable, but for home the ackodac wins. i'm about to receive the new rogers teflon substrate version dac board with all SMD BNC headers for digital connections, async USB input and wireless control of all dac parameters via the MCU including volume and source selection, so I can control via my ipad  I can literally log into my dac. just matching up some jfetrs and mosfets for transconductance for the D1 Class A mosfet IV stage.
   
  the buffalo II sounds fantastic though, you'll love it with the right power supply and IV stage; cant go wrong with either one and the buffalo is cheaper too. I recommend shopping around a bit for IV stages, there are a few to choose from on DIYAUDIO these days for sabre with boards available, you arent just limited to the TP stuff. I also recommend upgrading the AVCC L/R and VOSC supplies


----------



## jamato8

Some of the prices on the BG's have gotten crazy. Too bad there isn't anything on the horizon to take their place. 
   
  Those large IC boxes are nice. It would be nice to have my op amps and buffers and spare boards in something like that instead of the way I have it.


----------



## ryuzoh

[size=medium]Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> yep Ryuzoh is right, 22uf or 47uf NX-HQ is the stock value. I have a few, but i'm sorry mate its so hard to find them that i'm reluctant to let any go as I need for work. I do have some 47u/PK that will fit. let me have a look around for you, but last time I checked and found any, they wanted stupid money for them, over 15 bucks each and i'm sorry, but IMO BG just arent worth that much




​[/size]


    
  Quote:


jamato8 said:


> Some of the prices on the BG's have gotten crazy. Too bad there isn't anything on the horizon to take their place.


 
  Completely agreed, and we recently find rough (laugh?) fakes like below (excuse for Japanese letters).

  These were from Taiwan and seem to be made in China mainland, and tagged with crazy price higher than 10 US bucks.
  Leads are steel, fuzzy print, slightly purple coloured sleeve, and lot number is non-existent.
   
  Quote:


qusp said:


> nice one on the buffalo II, have you ordered it yet? if not you should consider the ackodac, it is IMO a better dac. I have the buffalo II as a portable, but for home the ackodac wins. i'm about to receive the new rogers teflon substrate version dac board with all SMD BNC headers for digital connections, async USB input and wireless control of all dac parameters via the MCU including volume and source selection, so I can control via my ipad  I can literally log into my dac. just matching up some jfetrs and mosfets for transconductance for the D1 Class A mosfet IV stage.
> the buffalo II sounds fantastic though, you'll love it with the right power supply and IV stage; cant go wrong with either one and the buffalo is cheaper too. I recommend shopping around a bit for IV stages, there are a few to choose from on DIYAUDIO these days for sabre with boards available, you arent just limited to the TP stuff. I also recommend upgrading the AVCC L/R and VOSC supplies



   
  Already ordered and will be shipped in mid Jan, transformer (1k : 100k) I/V with baffalo is popular in Japan.
  OK, then I'll advise you when it arrived and will may request some instruction about that


----------



## SpudHarris

Thanks guys. Well I found the infor of where I got the last lot of BG's and the web site just says ''SOLD OUT'' in big bold letters. So the million dollar question is..... what else can be used that is available? I know they won't be as awesome as BG's but hey, there must be something out there half decent.
   
  What about this?
   
  ELNA For Audio ROA Cerafine 6.3V 47UF HI-FI Capacitor


----------



## ryuzoh

Then you can use MUSE-ES 22uF/25V or 33uF/16V in same dimension with cerafine.
  Partsconnexion is dealing in.
  MUSE-ES is bi-polar type from Nichicon and will give solid bass like BGs but having dry character.
  Also will be more similar to BGs with adding film caps in parallel with, if room could allow.


----------



## qusp

yep thats what i'm doing, I often use 22u cerafine or silmic II bypassed with an SMD film. hey ryuzoh, have you read anything about these supposed nichicon silk caps? I read something on DIYA but havent seen anything else. I tell you what though, i've been a little bit scared off the low value nichicons after seeing some pretty shocking ESR measurements of 20ohms for a small 10uf cap :eek:
   
  HA, those pics are funny!! the stuff people will buy, but then I suppose the product photos they show are of legitimate BG and only when you hold them in your hand you notice they are dodgy
   
  transformer IV with buffalo sounds quite musical and easy to listen to, I have tried some nice O-Netics with mine for a while, but it is not IV, as soon as the sabre sees anything but a zero impedance node at its output it starts a transition to voltage output, the higher the impedance the more voltage and less current. measurements of this are BAD <100db (probably closer to 90db THD+N) compared to the awesomeness you can get with a proper IV stage like opc's rendition of the D1 mosfet IV (115db THD +N which is only just under measured performance from the best opamps). you may as well just put a couple of really nice high quality resistors at the output.
   
  the sabre reacts quite differently with the different designs, which some say is a flaw because its a bit touchy and must be babied somewhat. so I recommend trying a few.
   
  feel free to drop me a line when you are ready for tweaking (wont take you long I imagine) i'd be happy to share some info. from my experience the sabre has resolution to spare, sounds best with a discrete high gm (VERY important spec here) low impedance IV stage, biased at AVCC/2


----------



## jamato8

The silk caps have been out for a few years haven't they? I have read about them for at least that long.


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote: 





ryuzoh said:


> Then you can use MUSE-ES 22uF/25V or 33uF/16V in same dimension with cerafine.
> Partsconnexion is dealing in.
> MUSE-ES is bi-polar type from Nichicon and will give solid bass like BGs but having dry character.
> Also will be more similar to BGs with adding film caps in parallel with, if room could allow.


 

 Thanks Ryuzoh, I have ordered a quantity to experiment with 
   
  Upon your recomendation I received a couple of 4637-1 ARZ samples today and soldered them up immediately. I am listening now as I type and I like them already. Very detailed and vocals are just beautifully rendered, quite special. Only wish I could score the BRZ's.......


----------



## madwolf

sabre should be a very interesting, the thing holding me back from getting any of this Sabre DAC is the lack of information namely the technical datasheet. Without that it is almost impossible to do any meaning ful experimential with them. Black gates are very good in the high area, most Capacitors (liquid type) have an early roll off, The Black gates shines in this respect. Nichicon ES are particular early but could be by pass to minimise the effect. The ES is the best for mids. Size wise ES only hold half or closer to 1/3 of the capacitance of NX series black gate. So it is difficult to find larger ES to fit into the same space. Depending on headphone the bass response might be affected if too small a value is choosen. I have a problem with the new editor on head-fi. I cannot go to a particlar point using the mouse.


----------



## qusp

Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> The silk caps have been out for a few years haven't they? I have read about them for at least that long.


 


  yes, so have I, but i'm still yet to actually see one, i'm beginning to think they dont exist
   
  at madwolf, pretty much all of the info that is in the datasheet for the sabre is in the public domain if you know what to look fopr. I have the datasheet as I signed an NDA, but the need for an NDA is apparently coming to a close, its not yet posted on their website, main thing missing from public forums is register addresses, but this is only really of any use if you are wanting to program a uC for it, . I suggest emailing them to see if they'll give you the datasheet without signing, as trhe talk is the requirement has been dropped. all the info you need as a regular builder is already posted on DIYA


----------



## madwolf

For a comparison of the Capacitors I have written something some time ago and I made a repost here 
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/528380/electrolytic-capacitors-used-in-audio-dc-blocking-comparison-tread
  One notable capacitor missing is Muse FX, That have been discontinued
   
  Maybe someone could do a comparison for DC reservoir / filtering to find out how they behave. 
  The Silk have been available for at least 5 years. 
   
  The OPAMP box really looks nice. 
   
  @QUSP, Thanks for the head-up with regards to the Sabre data sheet, will look forward to reading them and see if there are any tweaking options. Maybe I just get a board from Buffalo or Audio-GD


----------



## qusp

no problem Madwolf. you'll have to be persistent though, as it takes them a while to reply. do you have a model number or name for the nichicon silk caps? I have never seen them anywhere, or seen pics, but have seen them mentioned many times.
   
  if buying a sabre dac for tweaking, go with the ackodac, the design and software/MCU module provides far more control of the dac than any other sabre or really any other dac that I know of. the audgd is IMO a few steps behind both of them in that regard. from what I can see the sabre has just been dropped into an existing design that used another dac chip, rather than being a design built around the chip. i'm sure it still sounds good and i'll be clear I havent heard it, but at least on paper its lagging and certainly not set up for tweaking if thats what you are after, in that area again the ackodac and buff II in that order are moer suitable.
   
  OK no more sabre talk, back to the wonderful sound of the FiQ
   
  I saw your cap thing, but it seems to be the same post you made in the D10 thread a while ago, are you planning to add to it?


----------



## SpudHarris

Jeremy, have you tried the ADA4637-1 yet? It is really nice in the Fi-Q and even better in the P3+


----------



## jamato8

Quote: 





spudharris said:


> Jeremy, have you tried the ADA4637-1 yet? It is really nice in the Fi-Q and even better in the P3+


 

 Have you compared them to the 637? How would you compare them to the 2111AM?


----------



## qusp

Quote: 





spudharris said:


> Jeremy, have you tried the ADA4637-1 yet? It is really nice in the Fi-Q and even better in the P3+


 

  
  nah not yet mate, my interests for collecting sand, have swayed more towards rare japanese jfets and mosfets these days. ive read good reports of them though, so will give them a try one of these days


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> Have you compared them to the 637? How would you compare them to the 2111AM?


 

 Better than the OPA637 to my ears John and of course more stable. I haven't yet found a nicer sounding chip than the OPA2111AM in the Fi-Q but I understand it's not everybodies flavour, for me it's just perfect. The ADA4637-1 is up there with the best for sure. Mine are AD samples


----------



## Tinola

I am guessing this amp is discontinued?


----------



## jamato8

Quote: 





tinola said:


> I am guessing this amp is discontinued?


 

 No reason to assume that. You can order it from Ryuzoh. It is an excellent platform to work from.


----------



## Tinola

Oh, since I couldn't find it on the iBasso website, that's why I thought it wasn't being made anymore.


----------



## jamato8

Quote: 





tinola said:


> Oh, since I couldn't find it on the iBasso website, that's why I thought it wasn't being made anymore.


 
  I understand. There are a number of different configurations that Ryuzoh can do with this.


----------



## qusp

and its not an ibasso, so that would explain why its not on their site, it never was an ibasso, they simply manufactured it


----------



## ryuzoh

[size=medium]Quote: 





qusp said:


> yep thats what i'm doing, I often use 22u cerafine or silmic II bypassed with an SMD film. hey ryuzoh, have you read anything about these supposed nichicon silk caps? I read something on DIYA but havent seen anything else. I tell you what though, i've been a little bit scared off the low value nichicons after seeing some pretty shocking ESR measurements of 20ohms for a small 10uf cap :eek:
> 
> HA, those pics are funny!! the stuff people will buy, but then I suppose the product photos they show are of legitimate BG and only when you hold them in your hand you notice they are dodgy
> 
> have swayed more towards rare japanese jfets and mosfets these days. ive read good reports of them though, so will give them a try one of these days





  Where is the thread in DIYA you mentioned? In this application we always have to look out current leakage.
  Also I remember ES achieved better results than BGs.....
   
  BTW, I assume they can't ever make the precise imitations as long as their effort, there has much crude imitations in eBay since the caps have been obsolete.
  As this photo proves, still being in above quality....LOL
   
  I can help you to supply if you want to have hard-obtain japanese components
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   ​[/size]

  Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I replied him, and thanks for support, John.

  And your 003 had already tested and made good results, also I set slightly lower gain


----------



## Tinola

I just gotta wait for funds to come in before I make the purchase, just college student with a limited budget. Hopefully they won't be gone by the second or third week of January as that's when I receive my extra financial aid hehehehe. I seriously can't wait for it.
  I'm so glad I found out about this product.


----------



## SpudHarris

Well I've been listening with the ADA4627-1ARZ's and have to say these are a real nice listen. Bags of detail but still warmish, I like these very much. I've just ordered 6 off BRZ's from Digikey along with a couple of metal can OPA627's, man those things don't get any cheaper.
   
  Unfortuately to use my OPA637's I have to have gain on full which really does limit use to full sized over IEM's. I guess with the 627's at least I'd get the flavour but still be able to use my W6's which I dearly love.
   
  I had a bit of a break from this amp as I was happy with the small form of the P3+ on the go and loving my newly aquired Woo 6 at home but it's only when you revisit you realise how awesome this amp really is.....


----------



## jamato8

I will be interested on what the metal can 627 sound like. 
   
  I have the fi.Q coming back to me know. I had a problem where I crossed something on the circuit and Ryuzoh went through it and also added the shunt bypass for the volume control with tantalum resistors. 
   
  I would like to try the 4637 in the higher rated version. Has anyone tried these?


----------



## SpudHarris

Quote: 





jamato8 said:


> I will be interested on what the metal can 627 sound like.
> 
> I have the fi.Q coming back to me know. I had a problem where I crossed something on the circuit and Ryuzoh went through it and also added the shunt bypass for the volume control with tantalum resistors.
> 
> I would like to try the 4637 in the higher rated version. Has anyone tried these?


 
   
  Well I love the 4637 ARZ so assume that I will really enjoy the BRZ. PM me John and I'm sure we can get you a pair.... 
  
  I also have a pair of OPA111BM's on route and wondered if you've tried them being as the 2111AM is one of our favourites.


----------



## SpudHarris

Well my ADA4637-1BRZ's arrived from Digikey today and I soldered up 2 pairs - 1 pair for my Fi-Q obviously and the other for the P3+. Anyone waiting for these OpAmps is in for a treat.


----------



## qusp

Quote: 





ryuzoh said:


> [size=medium]Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  i'll have a look for the thread for you, was in the parts section, a thread about film ca[s and subjective vs objective measurements.
   
  lol, yeah some of the fakes are funny alright, I have some toshiba 2SK174 my friend sent me haha, not only does this number not exist, but the parts have this strange colorful painting on the face, like the seller is getting wasted with the money hes making from silly people and scribbling on them, I would never buy hard to get/rare components on ebay. yeah its getting even worse fakes on ebay for BG, because now they cannot even get any to have in their hands to copy from.
   
  I may well take you up on the offer to get some parts. i'd be interested in some 2SK389V jfets, some 2SK1529/2SJ201 mosfets these are available, but difficult and expensive, I need some for the F5X i'm building. actually interested in getting a smallish 'bulk' order of the oyaide rhodium minis, these are easy to get, but I bet you can get them for a less expensive price as they are made in Japan, I have had difficulty dealing with them directly which is unusual, I buy most of my cables stuff direct from the manufacturer.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote: 





qusp said:


> I may well take you up on the offer to get some parts. i'd be interested in some 2SK389V jfets, some 2SK1529/2SJ201 mosfets these are available, but difficult and expensive, I need some for the F5X i'm building. actually interested in getting a smallish 'bulk' order of the oyaide rhodium minis, these are easy to get, but I bet you can get them for a less expensive price as they are made in Japan, I have had difficulty dealing with them directly which is unusual, I buy most of my cables stuff direct from the manufacturer.


 
  Well, K389 have been obsolete long time and requires very severe sorting, Idss on it has very uneven.
  We can buy K1529/J200 or K1530/J201 as 18USD/pair here around. 
  And then oyaide headquarter shop is just 500 yard from us, the silver-rhodium plugs are available 12USD/pcs.
   
  So here is Akihabara......
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  This is where I always buy caps/resistors....


----------



## SpudHarris

I haven't checked in for a while as I've been quite satisfied of late with my set up.
   
  I have to tell you guys though, the 'God' that is Ryuzoh came to my house yesterday and picked up my Fi-Q for update. what an absolutely top man!! He was in London on family matters and got a train up to a local station and I picked him up.
   
  Unfortunately we didn't have enough time together as I'd hoped as he had to get back to London to fly back to Japan. Tell me where else in the world would you get that type of service? He also bought his personal Fi-Q for me to listen to and although I consider mine to be exceptional, his was a step up for sure. Hope mine gets close to that when it comes back.....
   
  One thing I can tell you though if you haven't seen or met him, he's younger than you might imagine haha. The maturity and knowledge in his posts would have you thinking he was a man of years but I recon he couldn't have long left school.
   
  Anyhoo just wanted to tell you guys that on all levels being in the Fi-Q family is a cool place to be. A superb amp backed up by superb service from an absolutely charming individual.
   
  Thanks Ryuzoh...


----------



## jamato8

Great to hear. Nice that you got to meet Ryuzoh. 
   
  I got my fi.Q back for being updated and it sounds great. Plenty of power and effortless in the presentation. 
   
  So, Ryuzoh, when are you making a house call to Pohnpei?


----------



## SpudHarris

If he ever drops by you will get on like a house on fire. I can't wait to get mine back after hearing his. I believe he was running with OPA211's in L/R but I tell you they sounded sweet. I have those chips but haven't used them for a while. My Fi-Q is using OPA111BM's....


----------



## jamato8

I have some OPA211. I need to solder them up.


----------



## SpudHarris

Well I've had mine back a few weeks now following the update and have to say it's very, very good. I don't use it as a portable very much (unless the P4 is charging or I fancy a change of signature). I'm using it as my home amp and believe it to be very capable in this respect, but as I'm using it more for this purpose I need the rear switch clarified....
   
  What should it be switched to for home listening? to be truthful I'm not sure I understand any of  the 3 options.
   
  I will drop Ryuzoh a line but as his office and more so his home were affected by recent events I'm sure answering something so petty will not be a priority for him. For those who want to know, he is fine and the offices were shook somewhat but his home was quite badly damaged. At least he is ok though.
   
  So anyone have an answer here? I'm using it on # 1 at the moment.


----------



## ryuzoh

We will soon start preorders for 3rd, with 50 sets.
   
  Price will generally raise due to brushing up several components from 2nd, and extremely appreciated JPY.
  Leadtime for this is estimated around 2-3 months to be shipped from now to secure components and production line in iBasso (to resolder components on PCB).
  And we can offer update service for the amp in 1st and 2nd batch to 3rd class.
   
  Nigel, the box has been shipped.


----------



## SpudHarris

Hey Ryuzoh,
   
  great to hear from you my friend, hope you are well and recovered 
   
  What update would be applied to mine?
   
  Forgot about the box, thanks....


----------



## CEE TEE

Dear Ryuzoh,
   
  I am very glad that you are okay (and even going into the 3rd batch).
   
  Every time that news of a quake in Japan occurs, I pay very close attention and care that you are _all okay_...
   
  CEE TEE


----------



## ryuzoh

[size=medium][size=medium]Quote: 





spudharris said:


> What update would be applied to mine?




​[/size]

   
  Sophisticating power supply section and to change chip capacitors, also available to change whole resistors on signal path with thin film resistors if you need.
   ​[/size]

  Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *CEE TEE* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I am very glad that you are okay (and even going into the 3rd batch).
> 
> ...


 
  First, thanks for kind words above.
  In Tokyo suburb we are not more severely damaged than you saw in TV or so, recovering is steadily continuing.


----------



## denis

*I am interested in this amp. Can someone have the kindness to explain me the diffrences between Basic, CC, WC, MD, FX and BGkit ? And also the interest of the 4  more BUF634s ?*     *Thanks.*


----------



## qawsedrf

denis said:


> *I am interested in this amp. Can someone have the kindness to explain me the diffrences between Basic, CC, WC, MD, FX and BGkit ? And also the interest of the 4  more BUF634s ?*   *Thanks.*




My apologies for not going through the entire thread before asking this question as well... I am similarly interested in the fi.Quest, and what I understand it comes with different capacitors for different sound tuning? Also.. What is the pricing like, any site or links I may refer to?


Thank you and sorry for the bunch of questions.


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:  





> what I understand it comes with different capacitors for different sound tuning? Also.. What is the pricing like, any site or links I may refer to?


 
   
  Affirmative, and we are accepting orders only from here, however hesitatingly saying price will be raised due to reasons in #645...
   
   
  Before 3rd batch releasing, *I have to update ALL the 1st and 2nd fi.Q's......*
  Summary for it is to make longer runtime and less heat emission, wider soundstage, quicker transient.
   
  We can work it with* $40*.
  Paying method will be via paypal and our account is <service@ m-s-tech.jp>.
   
  Address ship to:
  Musashi Sound Technologies Co., Ltd. 
  4F Sotokanda Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo
  101-0021 JAPAN
  +81-3-5577-5569
   
  Cheers,


----------



## SpudHarris

Hey Ryuzoh,
   
  good to hear from you as always  Will this include return shipping?


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


spudharris said:


> Hey Ryuzoh,
> 
> good to hear from you as always  Will this include return shipping?


 
  OMG forgotten...
  To europe and north america, please add 10USD.
  To asia and oceania, please add 5USD.


----------



## SpudHarris

No worries, $50 sounds like a bargain. Will you ship my ic case also?


----------



## ryuzoh

Quote:


spudharris said:


> No worries, $50 sounds like a bargain. Will you ship my ic case also?


 
   
 [size=medium]Oh dear....hadn't it been arrived?
  May be lost... then I'll add another one.​[/size]


----------



## qawsedrf

ryuzoh said:


> Affirmative, and we are accepting orders only from here, however hesitatingly saying price will be raised due to reasons in #645...
> 
> 
> Before 3rd batch releasing, *I have to update ALL the 1st and 2nd fi.Q's......*
> ...




Ahh.. Thanks for the reply ryuzoh.  How much will the Fi.Quest cost? Once I am back from work tonight I'll read through this entire thread from head to toe!


----------



## CEE TEE

EDITED:
   
This is what I saved in a text document because I am still interested in Ryuzoh's work!  
   
Ryuzoh will have to update...but this explains 2nd batch and 1st Batch:
   
  2nd batch fi.Q are slightly evolved from the 1st in noise reduction and charging voltage adjustment.
  Nigel, had you notified them about this?
   
  BTW, informations for 2nd batch as follows......
   
  2nd batch fi.Q is manufactured 100, and 60 (as twice release each 30) for domestic and 30 for overseas, and the rest will be undefined.
  Just I can say is securing and being able to export 30 fi.Qs for Head-fi'ers surely. It will be processed in the next of early release for domestic 30 preorders.
 *Preorders for the 30 amps for head-fi'ers in 2nd batch will be scheduled on mid Nov.*
  Reason why so few in this batch is coz I couldn't expect the result of evaluation by Skylab………just appreciating to Rob
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Coming 3rd batch as 100 amps are already existing and can be provided to head-fi'ers more. Thus you need not rush and just time will solve.
   
  Unfortunately, as you know and despite of whether your familiar currency are appreciated or not, Japanese yen is under extraordinary appreciation versus USD.
  This is very hard issue to export from Japan, so please understand and give us your leniency for price increasing.
   
   
 *Newest price list for 2nd batch*
   
*"Standard" as same as 1st batch *
  OPAMP AD712JN
  BUFs: BUF634P on L, R, GNDch socket (total: 3)
  Caps:
  2 Silmic2 47uF/25V (C3&C4),
  2 MUSE-KZ 47uF/25V (C5&C6),
  2 MUSE-FG 3300uF/16V (C1&C2).
   
*"Virgin PCB (as for DIYers)"  w/o caps (C1-C6), no OPAMPs, 3 634Ps *
   
   
   
*"Cold-clearer edition (emphasized transparency and resolution, and clean treble)" *
  OPAMP 2 AD797ANZ
  BUFs: BUF634P/ch, BUF634U/ch (total: 4)
  Caps:
  2 Silmic2 47uF/25V (C3&C4), 2 MUSE-KZ 47uF/25V (C5&C6),
  2 Toshin UTSJ 100uF/16V (CP1&CP2), 2 Toshin UTSJ 220uF/16V (CP3&CP4),
  2 Toshin UTSJ 10000uF/16V (C1&C2).
   
*"Warm-clearer edition (silky and mellow, as for jazz and vocals)" *
  OPAMP 2 OPA211AID
  BUFs: BUF634P/ch, BUF634U/ch (total: 4)
  Caps:
  2 Silmic2 47uF/25V (C3&C4), 2 MUSE-KZ 47uF/25V (C5&C6),
  2 Toshin UTSJ 100uF/16V (CP1&CP2), 2 Toshin UTSJ 220uF/16V (CP3&CP4),
  2 Nichicon FW 10000uF/16V (C1&C2).
   
*"Mad-dog edition (**NEW**: with very aggressive sound and suitable with HD25 and E8, E9)" *
  OPAMP 2 ADA4627-1ARZ
  BUFs: BUF634P/ch, BUF634U/ch (total: 4)
  Caps:
  2 MUSE-KZ 33uF/25V (C3&C4), 2 MUSE-KZ 47uF/25V (C5&C6),
  2 MUSE-ES 47uF/16V (CP1&CP2), 2 MUSE-ES 47uF/16V (CP3&CP4),
  2 Nichicon KW 10000uF/16V (C1&C2).
   
*"FX Limited edition (as all-rounder)" (ONLY 50sets)*
  OPAMP 2 AD797ANZ
  BUFs: BUF634P/ch, BUF634U/ch (total: 4)
  Caps:
  2 Silmic2 47uF/25V (C3&C4), 2 MUSE-KZ 47uF/25V (C5&C6),
  2 Toshin UTSJ 100uF/16V (CP1&CP2), 2 Toshin UTSJ 220uF/16V (CP3&CP4),
  2 MUSE-FX 6800uF/16V (C1&C2).
   
*Above C/C, W/C, M/D, FX….4 configurations can be added more 4 BUF634s as maxxed .*
   
   
*Set for "BG-Maxxed edition (Just for E9, or for solid bass enthusiast)" (read the following infos)*
  OPAMP 2 OPA637AP
  BUFs: 2 BUF634P/ch, 2 BUF634U/ch (total: 8)
  Caps: 
  2 Toshin UTSJ 10000uF/16V (C1&C2).
Note: 
  Below caps *MUST BE ALREADY OBTAINED by yourselves.*
  4 BG N 33uF/16V (C3&C4&CP1&CP2)
  2 BG STD 47uF/16V (CP3&CP4)
  2 BG FK 47uF/16V (C5&C6)
  (4 BG NX Hi-Q 0.47uF/50V; additional by-pass caps)
  This is very hard to find 'em all.
  Order for this configuration will be valid after BG caps arrival into MST, to avoid any problems, and please use trackable means when you ship BGs to us.
  If you want to purchase this, advise me first and will notify our address to you.
   
  As I wrote at #547, I accept 30 preorders for 2nd batch fi.Q.
  Please send DMs for my account, and we will response to your email address *within several days*.
  Payment will be via Paypal.
   
  We are assembling first 30 2nd batch fi.Qs for domestic orders right now, and we can't pay attention to this thread continuously.
   
*Also, copy/paste and complete below form to the DM.*
   
  [Models]: *Basic/CC/WC/MD/FX/BGkit*
  [Additional more 4 BUF634s as maxxed]: Y/N
  [Power supply voltage]: 100-115V/200-230V
  [Additional note]: 
  [Your name]: 
  [Your email address]:
  [Your address]:
  [Your phone number]:
   
*Also, Cio MB DACs available.*
   
*IMPORTANT:*
*U.S. Post doesn't accept package weighs more than 16 oz as EMS due to their security reasons.*
*So, we're going to use UPS for shipping to U.S. especially, and shipping cost may be increased slightly.*
   
   
   
*Older 2nd batch price list:*
   
 _UPDATE 09-11-2009_
   
*information of fi.Quest Portable amp*
   
*important*
  100PCE of 1st batch has already DONE the reservation completion. 
  2nd batch is NOT an appointment system. It becomes a form sold little by little every day. 
  It is from roughly a day 10 pieces to 20 pieces.
   
*2nd batch Specification*
   
  "Standard" *same as 1st batch* Pre-bid price
   
  OPAMP AD712JN
  BUF 3 BUF634P in L, R, GNDch.
  Caps:
  2 Silmic2 47uF/25V (C3&C4),
  2 MUSE-KZ 47uF/25V (C5&C6),
  2 MUSE-FG 3300uF/16V (C1&C2).
   
  "Clearer"ver. 
   
  OPAMP 2 AD797ANZ
  BUF 2 BUF634P in L, R.
  BUF 2 BUF634U in L, R.
  Caps: 
  2 Silmic2 47uF/25V (C3&C4), 2 MUSE-KZ 47uF/25V (C5&C6),
  2 MUSE-ES 47uF/16V (CP1&CP2), 2 Toshin UTSJ 220uF/16V (CP3&CP4),
  2 MUSE-FW 10000uF/16V (C1&C2).
   
  "Maxxed"ver.  
   
  OPAMP 2 OPA637AP
  BUF 4 BUF634P in L, R.
  BUF 4 BUF634U in L, R.
  Caps:
  2 Sanyo OSーCON 100uF/16V (C3&C4),2 MUSE-KZ 47uF/25V (C5&C6),
  2 MUSE-KZ 33uF/25V (CP1&CP2), 2 MUSE-ES 47uF/16V (CP3&CP4),
  2 Toshin UTSJ 10000uF/16V (C1&C2).
   
  "FX Limited edition" (ONLY 50sets)
  OPAMP 2 AD797ANZ
  BUF 4 BUF634P in L, R.
  BUF 4 BUF634U in L, R.
  Caps: 
  2 Silmic2 47uF/25V (C3&C4), 2 MUSE-KZ 47uF/25V (C5&C6),
  2 MUSE-ES 47uF/16V (CP1&CP2), 2 Toshin UTSJ 220uF/16V (CP3&CP4),
  2 MUSE-FX 6800uF/16V (C1&C2).
   
  "BG-Maxxed"ver.
   
  BG-Maxxed is "Maxxed" with Black-Gate capacitor.
  If you want BG-Maxxed, the following capacitor is necessary. 
   
  4 BG N 33uF/16V
  2 BG STD 47uF/16V
  2 BG FK 47uF/16V
   
You must buy these somewhere. (e.g. Parts connection)Afterwards, please buy "Maxxed",
  and send us the BG capacitor. 
  We remodel it to BG-Maxxed. The remodeling cost is undecided. 
  The mailing address of the capacitor is a schedule for the announcement later...
  s
   
 _UPDATE 13-11-2009_
 _UPDATE 25-11-2009_
I corrected the erratum omission of a word. There is no change in the content. 
   
*1st batch of fi.Quest will be available on December 11th.*
   
 *Information for BG-Maxxed modification service*
   
  The BlackGate caps below are required, and should be purchased by yourselves.
   
  4 of N 33uF/16V
  2 of FK 47uF/16V
  2 of STD 47uF/16V
  (4 of NX Hi-Q 0.47uF/50V; just for preference and if you could obtain)
   
   
  For 1st batch users
   
  Modding service for 1st batch fi.Quest to BG-Maxxed
   
  1, Purchase BlackGate caps above from the shops where deal in.
  2, Send us the caps and modification charge via Paypal.
  (Please do not send until your actual purchasing)
  The Paypal account of us will be notified after shipping from iBasso begun.
  3, We’ll ship "BG-Maxxed" to you after we received the caps from you.
   
  Breaking down
  2 BUF634P (4pcs is proper as longer as possible due to matching of lot code)
  4 BUF634U
  2 UTSJ 10000uF/16V
  + modification charge
   
  For users from 2nd batch or later (Undecided information)
   
  "BG-Maxxed ready model (10000uF UTSJs only)"
   
  1, Purchase BlackGate caps above from the shops where deal in.
  2, Choose and purchase "BG-Maxxed ready model"
  3, Send the caps to us.
  (Please do not send until your actual purchasing)
  4, We’ll ship "BG-Maxxed" to you after we confirmed receipt of the charge you sent. 
   
  capacitor infomation:
 http://www.head-fi.org/forums/5723404-post176.html


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## qusp

Quote: 





ryuzoh said:


> Affirmative, and we are accepting orders only from here, however hesitatingly saying price will be raised due to reasons in #645...
> 
> 
> Before 3rd batch releasing, *I have to update ALL the 1st and 2nd fi.Q's......*
> ...


 

 ygm, i have done some of what you will do, but best you have a look over it, as i dont think it ever recovered from that first teething problem with factory settings


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## ilikeaudio

hi, just to check can i order the fiquest? thanks


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## ryuzoh

*For Long time absence.... 3rd batch preorders start today*  First, apologizing this too long absence, and I was concentrated into domestic sales during last year.
  And now, I can accept enough room for international sales but Japan....and very glad to introduce this here again.
  I currently secured *30 amps* for this batch, and may increased its sales achievements.
   
  The difference between 1st/2nd and this batch is easily defined, improving components quality inside to make fast sound and better resolution, and to fix exchange rate divergence on USD vs JPY.
  Hardly saying, very hard issue for us to coordinate it and unavoidable to raise the price up.....
 However, for this preorder sales can provide *$50 OFF price from below*.   
  Lineup is revised, basic/virgin/BG are abolished (if you have genuine BGs, can be accepted and ship it to us)
   
*Cold-clearer edition (emphasized transparency and resolution, and clean treble)*
*Warm-clearer edition (silky and mellow, as for jazz and vocals)*
 *$679*   
*Mad-dog edition (**with very aggressive sound and suitable with HD25 and E8, E9)*
 *$709*   
*FX Limited edition (as all-rounder): served 10 units for this time*
 *$729*   
   
 Additional services: *Piling up buffers BUF634P/U as "Maxxed" for above sets*
*$80*
   
*Adding switches on JP1/JP2*
*(Highly recommended for FET-input and bipolar-input OPAMPs compatible, to make higher performance)*
*$10*
   
*LED colours change*
*(Blue, Blue-green, Green, Yellow, Red, Pink, Purple available, default:**White**)*
*$5*
   
  Shipping cost with EMS from Japan (the package weighs 3.5lbs):
  Asia: $35
  Oceania & America: $45
  Europe: $50
  *EMS can be used for the U.S.
   
   
*Money transferring method will be with Paypal, and please make allowance to add its handling fee.*
   
   
 *To order it, PM me with below form;*  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  [Models]: *CC/WC/MD/FX*
  [Additional more 4 BUF634s as maxxed]: Y/N
  [Power supply voltage]: 100-115V/200-230V
  [Additional note]: 
  [Your name]: 
  [Your email address]:
  [Your address]:
  [Your phone number]:
  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   
  And I'm going to ask someone to make reviews....
   
  Questions can be accepted, PM me or email to <sales @ m-s-tech.jp>
   
  Cheers,


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## ryuzoh

*Estimate date to be shipped: 20th Feb.~*   
 *Specs:*  (Given Mad Dog edition and SW1ON/SW2OFF)
   
*THD+N (1kHz Sinewave)*
  600ohm Load 350mVrms 0.0008%
  600ohm Load       1Vrms 0.0009%
  100ohm Load 350mVrms 0.0007%
  100ohm Load       1Vrms 0.0013%
    33ohm Load 350mVrms 0.0008%
    33ohm Load       1Vrms 0.0016%
    33ohm Load       2Vrms 0.0036%
    15ohm Load 350mVrms 0.0018%
    15ohm Load       1Vrms 0.0041%
    15ohm Load       2Vrms 0.0051%
   
*S/N Ratio (1kHz Sinewave)*
  Gain: Low  350mVrms 103.6dB
  Gain: Low        1Vrms 112.4dB
  Gain: Mid  350mVrms 100.2dB
  Gain: Mid        1Vrms 107.8dB
  Gain: Mid        2Vrms 113.4dB
  Gain: Mid        4Vrms 120.2dB
  Gain: High       1Vrms  99.8dB
  Gain: High       2Vrms 105.2dB
  Gain: High       4Vrms 110.6dB
   
*Maximum output power (THD+N<0.5%)*
  15ohm Load (External Power) 1280mW+1280mW
  15ohm Load (Internal Power)   620mW+  620mW
  15ohm Load (Internal Power: Maxxed)   940mW+  940mW
   
*Dumping Factor*
  15ohm Load
  186 (350mVrms・1kHz) 
  170 (350mVrms・80Hz)
  174 (1Vrms・1kHz) 
  164 (1Vrms・80Hz)
  33ohm Load
  440 (350mVrms・1kHz) 
  489 (350mVrms・80Hz)
  420 (1Vrms・1kHz)
  462 (1Vrms・80Hz)
   
*Frequency Responce*
  *JP1/JP2 OFF
  DC～250kHz (-3dB)
  DC～35kHz (-0.2dB)


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## shigzeo

My review (which I thought was up already at TMA) for the newest version, is being republished at the moment. My prior review of the FiQuest was overall positive. MST have fixed every audio issue that I had quibble with making a nearly perfect portable (and massive) amplifier. Those are documented in my 2010 FiQuest review.
   
  Soundwise, too, the FiQuest has taken a leap forward, where, prior, it was merely very good and powerful, MST seem to have grabbed what I would call a house sound that consists generally of best-yet percussion and liquid mids. Please look out for the new review. It was published, but went private accidentally. I've found a few areas that need to be fixed up anyway for it. Will update this thread with new information.


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## jamato8

Quote: 





shigzeo said:


> My review (which I thought was up already at TMA) for the newest version, is being republished at the moment. My prior review of the FiQuest was overall positive. MST have fixed every audio issue that I had quibble with making a nearly perfect portable (and massive) amplifier. Those are documented in my 2010 FiQuest review.
> 
> Soundwise, too, the FiQuest has taken a leap forward, where, prior, it was merely very good and powerful, MST seem to have grabbed what I would call a house sound that consists generally of best-yet percussion and liquid mids. Please look out for the new review. It was published, but went private accidentally. I've found a few areas that need to be fixed up anyway for it. Will update this thread with new information.


 
  Is it a different size now?


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## shigzeo

Size is the same but there a number of improvements under the bonnet which discerning listeners will probably love b


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## jamato8

Quote: 





shigzeo said:


> Size is the same but there a number of improvements under the bonnet which discerning listeners will probably love b


 

 Has the board changed?


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## shigzeo

Here's a problem: my original fi-quest is with my dad in Canada. So, comparing the two directly is hard. But there seem to be no major layout changes. Ryuzoh mentioned that in this version (which can get pricey) only the absolute best parts were used. From the outside, the amps are the same, but the performance is different to be sure. I will post my main review this evening.


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## jamato8

Quote: 





shigzeo said:


> Here's a problem: my original fi-quest is with my dad in Canada. So, comparing the two directly is hard. But there seem to be no major layout changes. Ryuzoh mentioned that in this version (which can get pricey) only the absolute best parts were used. From the outside, the amps are the same, but the performance is different to be sure. I will post my main review this evening.


 
  Interesting. I have all Black Gate non polar in the Super E configuration and I use Tantalum resistors with some modification on the volume control. There are a few other tweaks as well.


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## shigzeo

Yes, you surely can tweak the FiQuest to your heart's delight. As a platform, it is nearly flawless. That is one of its strengths. In fact, in terms of overall utility, MST hooked into the right (perfect) platform. But as you and I know, it's more than just the platform. I'm in love with the midrange energy of the Mad Max version. In love.


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