# DIY power bar/strip



## ferday

i want to make a power bar, mostly because the spacing on my nice home theatre bar is poor with all the clunky 12V transformers on it, but while i'm at it would like to add some timers for certain outputs, etc and split the bar so i can plug into another circuit to increase the usable outlets.  i'm thinking i can do this for much cheaper than a commercial unit since i have a multitude of old power bars to raid for parts
  
 i guess my question is, is there any reason why i can't rip the surge protection PCB out of an old power strip and simply put into my DIY unit?  is it a better idea to DIY the surge protection and/or put some sort of DIY conditioning in (i've never believed in "power conditioning", but while i'm in there....)?  If that's the case, does anyone have any source on power conditioning DIY parts?
  
 thanks!


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## DingoSmuggler

No! Just no!
 Mains wiring and hack jobs are a bad mix.
  
 Just get yourself a power board that has wider spacing with the features you want. A properly constructed, safe DIY board will cost more.


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## MikeyFresh

I'd like to try to revive this 1+ year old thread with a few photos of 2 DIY power strip chassis I just took delivery on.
  
 The 2 duplex version in black will use somewhat standard wiring and AC outlets, for my nephew's guitar amp and effects pedal board power supply.
  
 The 3 duplex version in silver will be for my Hi-Fi system and will use somewhat more upscale parts, some of which are as yet TBD.
  




 These are nicely machined pieces and only took a few days via Air Mail to arrive from Hong Kong.
  
 I wish there were North American made alternatives but there aren't to my knowledge, and if there were they would cost hundreds of dollars (just like the Oyaide MTB chassis), much more than I was willing to budget for this project.
  
 More to come as I receive all the necessary parts and put them together.


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## Speedskater

Well some of us would say that often surge protection in the power bar/outlet strip is a bad idea.  But for the rest of the build, it's just like what electricians do every day.
  
 Surge protection should be at the home's service entrance, main breaker box.


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## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

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## ferday

those are nice DIY boxes!  do you have a link?
  
 i ended up cutting holes in the wall and wiring in a new circuit with a dedicated breaker.  if i ever get to build (another) listening room i'd definitely change the way i run power in the walls!  when i did mine i didn't anticipate so many plug ins nor how massive some of the 12V converters are


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## MikeyFresh

ferday said:


> those are nice DIY boxes!  do you have a link?
> 
> i ended up cutting holes in the wall and wiring in a new circuit with a dedicated breaker.  if i ever get to build (another) listening room i'd definitely change the way i run power in the walls!  when i did mine i didn't anticipate so many plug ins nor how massive some of the 12V converters are


 
  
 Yes I used *this eBay listing*. The seller has a very good rating, or I wouldn't have bothered.
  
 I'm not a huge fan of eBay or buying things from Hong Kong, however this roll of the dice turned out very well.
  
 The seller shipped them right out and they flew straight from HK to NY in just a few days time, delivered via Air Mail without incident.


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## MikeyFresh

Just about ready to build this project, I've got most of the parts I need.
  
 Test fit of Furutech FI-06(G) IEC inlet:


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## Habu2u

MikeyFresh,
  
 Good morning.
  
 Would you please provide us with a list of the parts you purchased for your Audio System's "DIY power bar/strip"?
  
  
 Thanks,
  
 Will


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## MikeyFresh

habu2u said:


> MikeyFresh,
> 
> Good morning.
> 
> ...


 

 Sure thing Will.
  
 I've already provided a link above in Post #7 for the actual power strip chassis.
  
 Other parts I am using include:
  
  
*Furutech FI-06(G) IEC inlet*
  
*Furutech Alpha-12 OCC hook-up wire (3 duplex strip)*
  
*Southwire THHN 12 gauge solid core wire (2 duplex strip)*
  
*PS Audio Power Port Classic duplex outlets (2 duplex strip)*
  
  
 ... still TBD are the AC outlets for the 3 duplex strip. I'm leaning towards the VooDoo Cable Hubbell IG8300, cryo treated with phosphor bronze contacts instead of the standard brass contacts. Not cheap, but less than half the price (for instance) of the Oyaide SWO-XXX outlets.
  
 Also still under consideration for one or both strips is the use of Stillpoints ERS cloth, to absorb stray EMI/RFI.
  
 Some of the stuff I'm using or considering I already had on hand, so the above parts list is by no means meant to represent a definitive way of doing this project, nor somehow massively better than if using other similar or less expensive parts.


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## Sherwood

> Originally Posted by *MikeyFresh* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I'm not a huge fan of eBay or buying things from Hong Kong


 
  
 Oh, man, Hong Kong is amazing.


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## MikeyFresh

sherwood said:


> Oh, man, Hong Kong is amazing.


 

 In this case certainly true, the only real quality alternative to those chassis readily available in the U.S. to my knowledge is the very pricey Oyaide MTB-6, which was more than I was willing to spend on this.


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## MikeyFresh

Another test fit photo, this time with PS Audio Power Port Classics and a couple of pieces of the 12 gauge Southwire THHN hook-up wire installed:


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## Sherwood

That looks very clean!  I'm thinking of working one of these up myself here shortly.


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## Habu2u

MikeyFresh,
  
 Thank you for your detailed supply list.
  
 From your guitar amp  power strip, I see you're parallel wiring. Very clean.
  
 For your audio rig, have you considered the Star Wiring Pattern?  
  
 When you invest time in star wiring, it can turn out just as clean.
  
 From what I understand, the star wiring pattern helps remove stray EMI/RFI, by providing a direct electrical connection from the source to each outlet.
  
 Thanks again, and looking forward to your updates and results….  (smile)


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## Speedskater

a 'Star Wiring Pattern' can have different meanings, what were you thinking?
  
 The best electrical layouts, try to reduce the lengths of the runs from audio component to component.
 That's why the AC power bar/strip works, everything gets plugged in together.


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## MikeyFresh

habu2u said:


> MikeyFresh,
> 
> Thank you for your detailed supply list.
> 
> ...


 

 I've only really considered a star grounding point, which is used to combat the propensity for ground loops. That star grounding point is typically the chassis itself, however there are some folks that swear just directly connecting to the IEC ground pin actually sounds better, assuming there is no ground loop problem with that in your specific system configuration.
  
 As the previous post mentioned, I'm not even exactly sure what you meant by star wiring, but if you mean not using a cascade from one outlet to the next, i.e. each outlet wired directly to the IEC jack, I am considering that but don't know that it's really necessary and would probably only aid in offering equal current to each receptacle.
  
 I'd also like to add that any potential wiring scheme, or grounding technique that I may choose to employ is all at my own risk and subject to my own research in doing what is both safe and following the local electrical code. The same would be true for you or anyone else who embarks on a project similar to this.
  
*DISCLAIMER - *I offer no specific advice or stance on exactly how or how not to wire any aspect of these power strips, you need to research it for yourself and also make sure to follow the local electrical code where you live. It isn't worth it to burn down your house or have an insurance claim denied over faulty wiring, so I make absolutely no specific recommendation in that regard, thats on you.


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## Habu2u

A big caveat:  *Always test your power strip outlet before plugging in any gear*.  An AC Electrical Receptacle Tester (3 Prong) is an essential tool.  Similar to this one:  http://www.amazon.com/ELECTRICAL-RECEPTACLE-TESTER-OUTLET-PRONG/dp/B002Q3R7HI  
  
To address the star wiring pattern I mentioned previously:  When originally looking for a power strip, I considered the Wiremold L10320.  These are sometimes hard to find.  Research brought me to Naim forums where they extensively discussed the Star Wire Pattern.
  
  
In the star-wiring pattern all pathways for electrical currents return to one common point, making a pattern similar to a multi-faceted star, as each separated branch fans out from the center of the star. The advantage to this is in keeping the impedance constant for all power branches. 
  
Each power strip outlet’s three wires (black, white, & green) run directly to the corresponding power cable input wires (black, white & green).  
  
The star technique is similar to that of running dedicated lines to your listening room.  The power strip’s input (from your wall outlet), in this case, is the star reference point and each outlet (in your power outlet) are wired individually to this star point.
  
I searched high and low for an image and found this one building a power strip (it's not the neatest but provides an example):  
  
 Fast forward to 5:20 for the image:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQdfUTEedNI


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## MikeyFresh

habu2u said:


> A big caveat:  *Always test your power strip outlet before plugging in any gear*.  An AC Electrical Receptacle Tester (3 Prong) is an essential tool.  Similar to this one:  http://www.amazon.com/ELECTRICAL-RECEPTACLE-TESTER-OUTLET-PRONG/dp/B002Q3R7HI
> 
> To address the star wiring pattern I mentioned previously:  When originally looking for a power strip, I considered the Wiremold L10320.  These are sometimes hard to find.  Research brought me to Naim forums where they extensively discussed the Star Wire Pattern.
> 
> ...


 

 I guess if I were to wire it the way you see in the video, I'd probably want to marry the wires together with a copper crimp sleeve, just to be sure it could never come apart, then insulate it with heat shrink.
  
 I don't think I'm going to do it that way, my 20+ year old Noisetrapper power strip does use a star ground, however the hot and neutral legs are done as a cascade and I've never felt this caused a lack of available current to my amp.
  
 I also don't see how wiring the way you see in the video would be of much help regarding EMI/RFI, but if you have additional information regarding that I'm all ears.
  
 My EMI/RFI strategy will involve the use of StillPoints ERS cloth, and also the Shunyata Venom Defender plug-in device, which I already own and like.


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## Speedskater

Considering the small internal size of a power bar/strip, it won't matter much on which wiring method is used.
 But 3 parallel bus bares might have an advantage. With added construction challenges.
  
 For cords and cables, running the Hot & Neutral as a twisted pair will reduce EMI/RFI.
  
 In an AC power circuit StillPoints ERS cloth won't do anything.
  
 The real experts on this kind of stuff are:
 Keith Armstrong
 Jim Brown
 Ralph Morrison
 Henry Ott


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## Brighenne

Wow, these look fantastic. These actually may be a good solution for my desk setup.


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## MikeyFresh

After much procrastinating I finally assembled the 2 duplex outlet version of this DIY power strip project last night:
  


 Test fit of wiring and IEC inlet, and initial continuity plus short circuit testing via multi meter.
  


 Ready for installation into the aluminum chassis.
  


 Outlets and IEC installed.
  


 View of the IEC end, a Furutech FI-06 (G).
  


 AC outlet tester shows all good.
  


 DIY power strip all finished. 
  
 Now on to the 3 duplex version, I still have to decide which outlets I'm using there, probably the VooDoo Cable cryo treated Hubbell IG 8300.


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## Speedskater

Is that a 20 Amp IEC chassis connector?


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## MikeyFresh

speedskater said:


> Is that a 20 Amp IEC chassis connector?


 

 15A/250V.


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## Speedskater

Then you shouldn't use 20 Amp receptacle's.


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## Speedskater

I would eliminate the chassis IEC connector and use a captive cord with a 20 Amp plug.


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## MikeyFresh

speedskater said:


> Then you shouldn't use 20 Amp receptacle's.


 

 True except I know the use case for this strip and it is only going to be powering a guitar amp and pedal effects board. At no time will anyone be attempting to power 20 amp devices from it.
  
 Even if something like that were to happen, the probability is the 15 amp breaker at the service panel would just pop open. I can't imagine any scenario where that would even be tested, maybe if a contractor were hired to do some home improvement work, spotted the strip and thought they could plug in a 20 amp power saw or something like that.
  
 The strip is a gift to my nephew, he will be told that despite the 20 amp compatible outlets, it is a 15 amp strip. He has no 20 amp devices of any kind, no high-end power amps etc... and likely never will.


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## MikeyFresh

speedskater said:


> I would eliminate the chassis IEC connector and use a captive cord with a 20 Amp plug.


 

 The DIY chassis came pre-cut with an IEC sized rectangular opening, and not the round hole needed for use with a captive cord.
  
 The problem with a 20 amp male plug is it won't work with a 15 amp wall outlet, with one blade turned sideways/perpendicular.
  
 This is not a for sale commercial unit, so I don't care if it doesn't adhere to that aspect of proper electrical code. I'm not worried about my nephew misusing it, he's very smart, graduated dean's list with a degree in bio chemistry, it won't be a problem in terms of how he wants to use it.


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## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

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## Speedskater

Once again, one should not use 20 Amp receptacles in a unit that has a 15 Amp IEC chassis connector or a 15 Amp plug.
  
 The only reason for a 20 Amp receptacle is so the a 20 Amp plug can be used. But all the pieces & parts in the circuit need to be rated at 20 Amps.
  
 All the internal parts in both 15 and 20 Amp receptacles are the same. Only the plastic cover plates are different. That is all the internal parts in a 15 Amp receptacle are rated at 20 Amps.


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## MikeyFresh

speedskater said:


> Once again, one should not use 20 Amp receptacles in a unit that has a 15 Amp IEC chassis connector or a 15 Amp plug.
> 
> The only reason for a 20 Amp receptacle is so the a 20 Amp plug can be used. But all the pieces & parts in the circuit need to be rated at 20 Amps.
> 
> All the internal parts in both 15 and 20 Amp receptacles are the same. Only the plastic cover plates are different. That is all the internal parts in a 15 Amp receptacle are rated at 20 Amps.


 

 With all due respect (because there is no reason for a thread war) thats just your opinion, which you are entitled to, but it's not the gospel.
  
 There are commercially available power distribution units from well respected manufacturers such as *Essential Sound Products* that do exactly as I am, deploying 20 amp receptacles in a 15 amp unit. It's neither against the law nor absurd, so long as the unit is not marketed falsely claiming full 20 amp compatibility. ESP clearly states their units are 15 amp rated. ESP's main line of business is not actually the home market, it's Pro Sound, if this were some sort of massive problem ESP would instead employ 15 amp receptacles.
  
 I don't know ESP's reasons for using 20 amp Leviton receptacles, but they've been doing it for 20 years. There are other manufacturers of power distribution units that also use 20 amp outlets in a 15 amp rated unit, VooDoo Cables themselves do it in their Powermatic models, Balanced Power Technologies does it in various models, etc... if this were against the law or causing these manufacturers big liability issues, they simply wouldn't do it, their lawyers wouldn't let them.
  
 Take a look at the various high-end "audio purposed" receptacles offered by the likes of Furutech, ESP, Cardas, VooDoo, PS Audio, Shunyata, etc... not one of them comes with any instructions specifically stating these outlets are _only_ to be installed in a 20 amp circuit. Thats because it's not a requirement, however the opposite scenario is a different story, i.e. you of course can't use a 15 amp rated outlet in a 20 amp circuit.
  
 In my case my reasons for doing this are twofold, the first being I can't find the IG 8200 (Hubbell's otherwise identical 15 amp version of what I'm using) with the spec grade phosphor bronze contacts and cryo treatment. For whatever reason, it's only offered on the 20 amp spec'd IG 8300. Other brands do offer something similar in a 15 amp rated outlet, but they are MUCH more expensive. I would rather pay less and have over spec'd outlets.
  
 The second reason why I've chosen to use these 20 amp outlets is that I am the end user of this strip, for my own home stereo, and I have no 20 amp devices nor plans to acquire any. Even if I did, updating this strip to full 20 amp capability would of course be the least of my worries, I'd need an electrician to first install a 20 amp circuit into the room before using any 20 amp rated devices.
  
 I had noted going back to one of your very first posts in this thread a decidedly negative tone, where you felt the need to announce who "the real experts" are on this topic. And while I have no issue with the folks you named and certainly have every reason to believe they are experts like so many people on this forum, I was puzzled by the negative connotation involved, i.e. that others should be wary/suspect of my posts (or those of a few others in this thread), because we aren't "the real experts" (according to you).
  
 For the record, I have never once proclaimed myself an expert on this subject, nor do I care if you think that am or am not. I have made careful mention to anyone reading this thread that they need to research and adhere to all relevant safety precautions and local electrical code, and that they should not view my posts in this thread as some sort of definitive way of doing a DIY power strip project. So I'm covered in terms of not dictating to anyone how something should or should not be done.
  
 Why do you think you can or should dictate to others exactly how something should or should not be done? I guess you must be in that expert group, or the DIY power strip police?
  
 Your post tone should be more the suggestion, or even of a Q&A variety, where people can learn and either take or leave your input, without mistaking it for the be all/end all gospel that you seem to think it is. It just isn't, and I really don't care if you are an electrician.


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## MikeyFresh (Oct 29, 2022)

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## HiGHFLYiN9

Very nice! I'm fond of Hubbell outlets too, great bang for the buck and you can find contractor surplus for nice prices. I like the look of those thick Furutech hook-up wires.


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## MikeyFresh

HiGHFLYiN9 said:


> Very nice! I'm fond of Hubbell outlets too, great bang for the buck and you can find contractor surplus for nice prices. I like the look of those thick Furutech hook-up wires.


Yes the Hubbell outlets have always served me well, they were originally standard equipment in the CablePro Noisetrapper power strip versions of the early 90s. I still have two of those.

I've also used the Jena Labs cryo treated version of the Hubbell 5362 in the wall, but even the regular industrial grade version you mention above is a high quality item.

Your Zynsonix stuff is also quite nice!


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## John Massaria (Apr 30, 2022)

I’m making two of these
This is the first one I made - it has all separate wire runs for each plug - all 6n occ pure copper single strand 2mm runs - connected directly to no EIC Rather it is directly connected to a power cord -
The second will have much more robust outlets and single strand 6n occ 4mm wire occ pure copper for each outlet run - each has its own run of power

I may back fill with epoxy and crushed quartz and activated carbon as a natural emf noise suppression with no limit on power current


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## HiGHFLYiN9




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## Inspector Gadget

Sounds like a very efficient way to void your insurance policy


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