# My custom CMoy Boards Arrived! **Pics inside & Parts List**



## Joshatdot

*UPDATE:* PCB v1.03 are how here, info: click here.

Link to my FS post

 My OLIMEX order took about 5 business days for them to make, and about 10 days for shipment. My Digi-Key order took only 3 business days from order to arrive at my door!

 I got home yesterday to find these at my door step:




 The OLIMEX Boards




 The Digi-Key Parts




 The Digi-Key stuffing was HUGE




 The PCB's packaged




 All 12 PCB's layed out




*NOTE*: For the *RLED*, I recommend at least a *4.0k Ohm* with the LED listed here, if you are using dual 9v configuration.

 For the Alps RK097 Pot/Switch, you'll need to get one from Tangent or amb.

*Digi-Key Parts List:*
  Code:


```
[left]QtyPart NumberDescriptionCustomer Reference ========================================================================== 1P12383-NDCAP 220UF 25V ELECT FM RADIALC1 2495-1119-NDCAP 1.0UF 63V METAL POLYC2 2CMF100KQFCT-NDRES 100K OHM 1% 50PPM 1/4WR2 2CMF2.00KQFCT-NDRES 2.00K OHM 1% 50PPM 1/4WR3 Gain 5 2CMF10.0KQFCT-NDRES 10.0K OHM 1% 50PPM 1/4WR4 2CMF49.9QFCT-NDRES 49.9 OHM 1% 50PPM 1/4WR5 (Optional) 1CMF4.02KQFCT-NDRES 4.02K OHM 1% 50PPM 1/4WRLED 1ED90032-NDIC SOCKET 8 PIN .300 GOLD8-Dip Socket 1OPA2227PA-NDIC DUAL PRECISION OPAMP 8-DIPOp-Amp 1296-1994-1-NDIC 1/2 RAIL VIRTUAL GRND TO-92Virtual GND 2232K-NDSTRAP BATT ECON 9V I STYLE 4"LD9v Batt Straps 2CP1-3533-NDCONN JACK STEREO R/A 3PIN 3.5MMIn/Out Jacks 1350-1560-NDLED 3MM BLUE DIFFLED Blue 1226-3104-NDKNOB MATTE .50"DIA 6MM SHAFTKnob QtyPart Number Description Customer Reference ========================================================================== 1P12383-NDCAP 220UF 25V ELECT FM RADIALC1 2495-1119-NDCAP 1.0UF 63V METAL POLYC2 5100KXBK-NDRES 100K OHM 1/4W 1%R2 52.00KXBK-NDRES 2.00K OHM 1/4W 1%R3 Gain of 6 510.0KXBK-NDRES 10.0K OHM 1/4W 1%R4 549.9XBK-NDRES 49.9 OHM 1/4W 1%R5 (Optional) 54.02KXBK-NDRES 4.02K OHM 1/4W 1%RLED 1ED90032-NDIC SOCKET 8 PIN .300 GOLD8-Dip Socket 1OPA2227PA-NDIC DUAL PRECISION OPAMP 8-DIPOp-Amp 1296-1994-1-NDIC 1/2 RAIL VIRTUAL GND TO-92Virtual GND 2232K-NDSTRAP BATT ECON 9V I STYLE 4"LD9v Batt Straps 2CP1-3533-NDCONN JACK STEREO R/A 3PIN 3.5MMIn/Out Jacks 1350-1560-NDLED 3MM BLUE DIFFLED Blue 1226-3104-NDKNOB MATTE .50"DIA 6MM SHAFTKnob Alternate C2 Input Caps ======================= 2478-3367-NDCAP POLYFILM BOX 1.0UF 63V 5%C2 2478-3375-NDCAP POLYFILM BOX 1.0UF 63V 10%C2 2495-2470-NDCAP 1.0UF 63V METAL POLYC2 2495-2822-NDCAP 1.0UF 10% 63V METAL POLYC2 2399-5443-NDCAP FILM MKT 1UF 63VDC 5MMC2[/left]
```


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## fatman711

u selling these?


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## Pars

Those look pretty good... Olimex, while not quite up to Imagineering quality, have gotten much better looking over the past year or so. Congrats!

 Now... for the moment of truth... building one and finding out if it works or not 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Not to worry, you asked enough questions/solicited comments on your design... I would be VERY surprised if they didn't work.


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## Joshatdot

Everything is going together great!!

 But...I made the thru holes (1.5mm) for the IN/OUT jacks the same diameter of the tab (1.5mm), so the final diameter size is 1.4mm. Other wise it would have cost me $1.30 extra, or something, for a 1.6mm hole (1.5mm after). 

 SOOO the hole is a teeny-tiny bit too small, and difficult to push thru. I had to file down the TAB of the IN/OUT jacks some to make them fit. I thought I could get away with the 1.4mm size, but damn that 0.1mm difference is tough to push thru!

 Next batch I am going to spend the extra $ for the 1.6mm hole size!!


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fatman711* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_u selling these?_

 

Yes, 3 are already spoken for (myself, and two friends) so that leaves me with 9 to sell.

 If there is much interest/selling here, I will order more from OLIMEX with the 1.6mm fixed hole size.


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## Joshatdot

*[size=large]WOOT!!!
[/size]*

 This sounds great! I am using a Panasonic FM 220uF 25v power cap, EPCOS Metal Poly Film 1.0uF input caps, OPA2227PA with dual 9v batts in series, and Yageo 1% 1/4 watt resistors. Also it has optional *R5 49.9ohm* resistors. Listening to it with my HAFX-33's Kramered w/E2 Large Orange Foamies.

 I am going to build a second one with Panasonic Metal Poly Film 1.0uF input caps, and maybe optional R5 49.9ohm.

 Once I get them both built, I am going to roll some op-amps: OPA2107, OPA2227, LM4562 & AD8066 (once I get it soldered to an extra DIP-8 socket)


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## Joshatdot

*[size=medium]Now for the HARD part...putting it in a Mint Tin![/size]*

*I used a Hole Puncher to make the in/out jack holes, and the pot hole, but nipped it out abit larger. I used a Center Punch, or you can an Awl to poke out the 3mm LED hole.
*
 - Center hole for the POT/SW is about 29.30mm ~ 30.00mm from either side of the tin.

 - Holes for the IN/OUT jacks are about 15.25mm from the Center hole each side

 - LED hole is about 8mm from Center hole

 - Height from the bottom of the tin (measuring from outside) for the center holes is 11mm for the IN/OUT jacks, and about 10.5mm for the POT, and 11mm for the LED.


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## fatman711

are all the parts that you use in a normal cmoy the same?


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fatman711* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_are all the parts that you use in a normal cmoy the same?_

 

Parts listed added to the 1st post ^^^


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## infinitesymphony

Are the parts you listed in the first post the ones you used for your first finished CMoy (ex. Panasonic capacitor, etc.)?

 It looks great! Did you listen to it without R5? What's the impedance of the headphones you're using?


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## blackinches

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*[size=medium]Now for the HARD part...putting it in a Mint Tin![/size]*

 If you are going to use a Mint Tin (like an Altoids tin):
_

 

It's easier to print out an actual size layout view from Eagle, set the tin on top of the printout, and mark the hole cutouts on the tin with dry erase markers.

 I screwed up about half a dozen tins before I figured this out (I've built around 30 of mine now)...haven't messed up another since:






 Nice job, and I hope that helps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: I suppose it's obvious, but that's one of the tins I cut before I made the pattern.


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *infinitesymphony* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are the parts you listed in the first post the ones you used for your first finished CMoy (ex. Panasonic capacitor, etc.)?

 It looks great! Did you listen to it without R5? What's the impedance of the headphones you're using?_

 

1. Yes that is the parts list I ordered, and the Alps RK97 is from Tangent.
 2. w/o R5 50ohm, not yet.
 3. HA-FX33 impedance...16 ohm?


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *blackinches* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's easier to print out an actual size layout view from Eagle, set the tin on top of the printout, and mark the hole cutouts on the tin with dry erase markers.

 I screwed up about half a dozen tins before I figured this out (I've built around 30 of mine now)...haven't messed up another since:

 Nice job, and I hope that helps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Getting the placement is not hard. I did not have the correct tools to drill the holes, and my Dremel ripped/tore the thin metal. 

*How did you make such clean holes!*

 I need to get a small drill press, or a new cordless drill. My dads 10+ year old 9.6v Craftsman drill was not charged, took forever to charge, and was WEAK!


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## blackinches

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Getting the placement is not hard. I did not have the correct tools to drill the holes, and my Dremel ripped/tore the thin metal. 

*How did you make such clean holes!*_

 

True, getting the placement isn't hard when you take your time, even if it's less than a minute, I know. However, I half-assemble them by the dozen and had to find an optimal method. I'm about to cut holes in 96 tins and partly assemble the same number of boards. I've gotten it down to 10-15 minutes per amp (the next few days are going to be fun...).

 I use a soft grip 1/4" hole punch from OfficeMax. Unlike cheaper hole punches, it doesn't require intense squeezing pressure. However, it only took me ~100 holes to wear out my first one. The punch bent and broke. We need to find a better method. I don't have a drill press either.


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## fatman711

A hole puncher is strong enough?


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## Joshatdot

I re-did my case/tin. Hole punch is PERFECT for the Jacks, and for the POT I just had to nip out a bit extra to widen it. For the LED I just used a Center Punch to start with, and just pushed it thru till the hole was big enuff.

 +1 for the Softgrip Hole punch!! I have a cheepy and it was abit tuff, but I used a leather glove for comfort.


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## infinitesymphony

Guess I'll be heading to Office Max today. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll probably make an order with Digi-Key soon. Realistically, is there any improvement to be found by using better resistors (and does Digi-Key even sell better ones than the Yageos)?

 Also, how long do you anticipate it will be until the next batch with 1.6mm holes for the input/output jack tabs?


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *infinitesymphony* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Guess I'll be heading to Office Max today. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'll probably make an order with Digi-Key soon. Realistically, is there any improvement to be found by using better resistors (and does Digi-Key even sell better ones than the Yageos)?

 Also, how long do you anticipate it will be until the next batch with 1.6mm holes for the input/output jack tabs?_

 

Yageos is what I chose because I think they are/were the only 1% 1/4watt resistors I found on Digi-Key. That was months ago, and I just kept them on my Order list.

 Next paycheck I'll order another batch with 1.6mm IN/OUT holes. I just sent the new files to OMILEX for qualification & price quote.


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## error401

DigiKey has Vishay Dale CMF55 series that are 'better' than the Yageos, but I seriously doubt there's a noticeable difference. You can buy them in ones though so they may end up actually being cheaper too. It looks like they're slowly stocking them as people order; common values have some stock showing while less common ones say they're backordered with an expected ship date of 'tomorrow'. I've sent an e-mail asking about this and should get a response next week. This series is the same as the RN55 series that everyone always talks about, but the commercial designation has a higher power rating (1/2W).


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## infinitesymphony

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *error401* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_DigiKey has Vishay Dale CMF55 series that are 'better' than the Yageos, but I seriously doubt there's a noticeable difference. You can buy them in ones though so they may end up actually being cheaper too. It looks like they're slowly stocking them as people order; common values have some stock showing while less common ones say they're backordered with an expected ship date of 'tomorrow'. I've sent an e-mail asking about this and should get a response next week. This series is the same as the RN55 series that everyone always talks about, but the commercial designation has a higher power rating (1/2W)._

 

Cool... Could you list the parts numbers of those resistors? I don't have a lot of experience with electrical equipment beyond building my first CMoy, so finding the right parts using Digi-Key's text descriptions is still a bit over my head.


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## error401

Code:


```
[left]CMF100KHFCT-NDRES 100K OHM 1% 50PPM 1/2WCMoy Kit - R2 100k Resistors CMF1.00KHFCT-NDRES 1.00K OHM 1% 50PPM 1/2WCMoy Kit - R3 1k (Gain of 11) CMF2.00KHFCT-NDRES 2.00K OHM 1% 50PPM 1/2W CMoy Kit - R3 2k (Gain of 6) CMF10.0KHFCT-NDRES 10.0K OHM 1% 50PPM 1/2W CMoy Kit - R4 10k Resistors CMF49.9HFCT-NDRES 49.9 OHM 1% 50PPM 1/2WCMoy Kit - R5 50ohm (Optional)[/left]
```

Except for the 2K ones, all of these seem to have current stock so you won't need to be concerned about the backorder situation. Unit price is $0.16 in ones, $0.144 in tens.

 The easiest way to find things on DK is not to search, but to browse their categories and use the filters, which are quite good. To find these resistors, for example, you'd do an empty search to get a list of categories, choose 'Metal Film' under resistors, and then select the value and 'Vishay/Dale' as manufacturer. You can also usually filter on 'packaging' for bulk and cut-tape, since you're probably not going to be ordering reels. If you do this you'll get two results for each value, the CMF55 series and CMF50 (1/4w) series. The 1/2W CMF55 is cheaper and most board layouts will allow for it to fit where a 1/4W unit belongs (they're larger than most 1/4W resistors, but smaller than most 1/2W). On this board it won't be a problem since they're mounted vertically.


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## error401

DigiKey has responded to my query and indicates that if you order one of the CMF55 series that's showing 0 available and an expected ship date of 'tomorrow', these parts will be cut from a reel and shipped along with the rest of an order you make. It is just showing that they haven't yet opened a reel of that value to fill any other orders, as the series is new to DigiKey.


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## infinitesymphony

Thanks for the help, error401. That was exactly the kind of information I needed.


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## Joshatdot

added Case Tin punch outs diagram to post #7


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## fatman711

what do you put in the altoid tin so that the board doesn't short circuit?


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## balou

black electrical tape. or some cut paper sheets, but they tend to fall out (speaking out of experience 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fatman711* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what do you put in the altoid tin so that the board doesn't short circuit?_

 

I used a plastic credit card type thing I got from ACE Hardware, (any club card thing will do), and cut the corners to make it fit flush on the edge.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *balou* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_black electrical tape. or some cut paper sheets, but they tend to fall out (speaking out of experience 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)_

 

Black electrical tape or paper sheets can work, if you layer it. The soldering joints can poke thru single ply of tape & paper.


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## Joshatdot

Looks like it'll be afew weeks before I can order some new boards:
  Quote:


 Subject: CMoy v1.02 Eagle files
 From: "OLIMEX Support" <support@olimex.com>

 Hi,
 We are in vacation to September 3rd.
 Please re-submit this order after September 4th, we can't process it now.
 Thanks
 Olimex Support


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## holland

A small suggestion.

 It looks like your cmoy is cutting into the tin cover. If you can lay the caps differently so it's not the high point and if your resistors don't reach above the pot and jack panels, you can mount the PCB upside down (so the bottom is facing the top of the tin) so it rests on the pot and jacks, which might give you a bit more downward room so you don't have to cut the cover. 

 It'll be more difficult to swap opamps, but I don't really know if that's an issue. It's as easy as removing a few nuts and the volume knob. That's not a big deal for me, but I don't know about anyone else. You also won't need to line the bottom of the tin, assuming the other components don't touch the tin.

 It's probably too late, but if you have room to mount the opamp socket on the other side of the PCB (not sure if there's room and will need a different pin layout), it might work better by allowing easy replacement?

 You also may want to put a grommet around the LED hole and make it bigger. It looks like it's going to cut into the LED over time.


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *holland* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A small suggestion.

 It looks like your cmoy is cutting into the tin cover. If you can lay the caps differently so it's not the high point and if your resistors don't reach above the pot and jack panels, you can mount the PCB upside down (so the bottom is facing the top of the tin) so it rests on the pot and jacks, which might give you a bit more downward room so you don't have to cut the cover. 

 It'll be more difficult to swap opamps, but I don't really know if that's an issue. It's as easy as removing a few nuts and the volume knob. That's not a big deal for me, but I don't know about anyone else. You also won't need to line the bottom of the tin, assuming the other components don't touch the tin.

 It's probably too late, but if you have room to mount the opamp socket on the other side of the PCB (not sure if there's room and will need a different pin layout), it might work better by allowing easy replacement?

 You also may want to put a grommet around the LED hole and make it bigger. It looks like it's going to cut into the LED over time._

 

The Tin I have pic'ed in this thread is outdated. It's the tin I first tried with my Dremel to make the holes. The 2nd tin is *MUCH* better looking using the Paper Hole Punch method for the POT & Jacks, and Center Punch/Awl to poke a LED hole.

 Mounting the 8-DIP socket on the other side, while upside down, would push all the other components to the very bottom, and I would have to Dremel out the lid again.

 LED will not move when the POT & Jacks are firmly attached to the Tin.


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## holland

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LED will not move when the POT & Jacks are firmly attached to the Tin._

 

That's not entirely true. The tin can flex (it's not exactly a solid case) and it might be enough to "saw" over time from vibrations, etc. especially if used as a true portable and if the hole is a tight fit. Use green loctite on those nuts.

 It's your build though, I would personally use an LED holder or a grommet.


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## Joshatdot

bump to ask how the 2 boards I sold came out?


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## infinitesymphony

So what will be the changes for the second version (v1.02)? Bigger holes for the input/output jack tabs... anything else?

 Also, a question about LED grommets. How do you use one? The only thing I can imagine is that the legs of the LED have to be soldered to the board after the LED is already on the side of the tin...


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## error401

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *infinitesymphony* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So what will be the changes for the second version (v1.02)? Bigger holes for the input/output jack tabs... anything else?

 Also, a question about LED grommets. How do you use one? The only thing I can imagine is that the legs of the LED have to be soldered to the board after the LED is already on the side of the tin..._

 

The usual design is that the LED just snaps into the grommet from the rear. Board-mounting the LED would make things a little more difficult, but it should still be doable. You'd place the grommet in the panel hole and then snap the LED into it from behind. Do you have a different type?

 Edit: I have another type in-hand that is slightly more difficult to use. I think these are the cheap 3mm ones that digikey sells. They have two parts, one bit that clips to the LED and then slides inside the grommet itself. The particular ones I'm looking at are a bit more difficult to use than the basic type I mentioned above because the mounting-piece must be inserted from the *front* of the grommet, and the LED can't be added once it's inserted. This requires you to have the grommet attached and in the chassis hole when you solder it.


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## Joshatdot

the only 3mm LED holders I found on Digi-Key are the nylon ones that are like 50 cents for 5 of them.

 67-1330-ND

 v1.02 will have bigger holes for the IN/OUT jacks, and *+* indicator for the LED

*edit: My current v1.01 will be mod'ed with the IN/OUT jacks file'ed out some to make the jacks fit perfectly fine.*


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## britishbane

About the parts list, is it just a single item for each listed part?


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## joneeboi

Thanks go out to Joshatdot for his board. I bought one of his boards and am setting up an RA-1 clone for my SR60s. One minor complaint is that I think the boards are perhaps too fragile, because I ruined OPT_R just by switching resistors once or twice. No problem, point-to-point is always fun and good experience. Maybe I strong-armed the holes and I'm wasn't being careful enough, but perhaps a different manufacturer would make them a bit stronger. I'm not entirely sure, but what I am sure of is that I'm enjoying this CMoy. I just need the opamp and Solen caps that should be in next week. Woot.


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *britishbane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_About the parts list, is it just a single item for each listed part?_

 

Pretty much one of each, except the in/out jacks & batt straps, which you'll want 2 of each.


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joneeboi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks go out to Joshatdot for his board. I bought one of his boards and am setting up an RA-1 clone for my SR60s. One minor complaint is that *I think the boards are perhaps too fragile*, because I ruined OPT_R just by switching resistors once or twice. No problem, point-to-point is always fun and good experience. Maybe I strong-armed the holes and I'm wasn't being careful enough, but perhaps a different manufacturer would make them a bit stronger. I'm not entirely sure, but what I am sure of is that I'm enjoying this CMoy. I just need the opamp and Solen caps that should be in next week. Woot._

 

What part of it was fragile? the copper plating or the actual board itself?

 What kind of Soldering Iron do you have? it might be too hot.

 I might modify the hole plating to have more copper plating on my next batch.


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## joneeboi

It'd be nice to know what the thing is called, but it's the circle you see on top of the board. I heated up the solder side and pulled the resistor out, but the circle went with it.

 I have a Weller WLC-100 with adjustable heat. I did turn up the heat a little because I was working with some heatsinks on my Millet Max but it wasn't that much hotter than I normally use it. It could just be one of the things you learn to be careful about in electronics, but I thought I might point it out.


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## error401

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the only 3mm LED holders I found on Digi-Key are the nylon ones that are like 50 cents for 5 of them.

 67-1330-ND[/B]_

 

I have some 67-1331-ND in stock which I assume are similar. These are standard 1-piece grommets with wings. You would punch a hole just a bit larger than the shaft of the grommet. It has little wings on it that you can bend to a circular shape and insert it into the hole you've made. The wings will then spring back out and hold the grommet in the hole. Then you add the LED from behind and it snaps in as well. I would really recommend using these, they'll protect the LED, keep it in place, and look a lot cleaner.

 I like photos, so here's one:


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## britishbane

Joneeboi, I've got the same soldering station and was wondering what tip's you use for these types of electronics? Will the stock tip suffice?


 edit: ty Joshatdot for your answer


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## joneeboi

britishbane,

 I use the stock tip. This isn't an experienced choice though. I went to the local Rona (think Home Depot-ish) to find some Weller tips but they didn't have any that would fit my model, so I stuck with the stock one. It's been working fine. If it proves to be a problem, such as being too difficult to use for SMD work or other precision projects, I'd suggest you switch. But if you can source it easily, sure, why not? Other than that, you don't really need to bother.


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## britishbane

Digikey has part 495-1087-ND unavailable/obsolete would this part do as a replacement 495-1119-ND? If that wont work, what are my other options?


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## error401

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *britishbane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Digikey has part 495-1087-ND unavailable/obsolete would this part do as a replacement 495-1119-ND? If that wont work, what are my other options?_

 

Looks like a fine substitution to me.


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *britishbane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Digikey has part 495-1087-ND unavailable/obsolete would this part do as a replacement 495-1119-ND? If that wont work, what are my other options?_

 

Basicly any input cap with 5.0~5.08mm lead spacing & 5~6mm width should fit fine in my PCB.


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## Joshatdot

I finally build my 2nd PCB! I was enjoying the 1st so much 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I gave my 1st one to a friend who helped me financially to order these boards.

 My 2nd build has: Panny FM 25v 220uF, Panny ECG 1.0uF Metal Polly Caps (ECQ-V1H105JL), TLE2426, Yageo 1% Resistors, Gain of 11, LM4562 Op-Amp, R5 Jumpered.

 Listening to the Ultrasone CD with my FX33's. The bass is more quick & deeper than the OPA2227. But I noticed some clipping listening to tracks 7 & 8. This is either due to the fact there is no R5 resistor, or the Gain of 11 is too much for the LM4562?

 Tomorrow I'll add 50 Ohm's to the R5 and see if the clipping goes away.

 edit: I just listened to it with my KSC35's. The bass was more punchy with the FX33's cause of their lower ohmage causing the clipping (14 ohm vs 60 ohm). The KSC35's bass were more controlled & I did not notice the clipping in tracks 7 & 8.


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## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Listening to the Ultrasone CD with my FX33's. The bass is more quick & deeper than the OPA2227. But I noticed some clipping listening to tracks 7 & 8. This is either due to the fact there is no R5 resistor, or the Gain of 11 is too much for the LM4562?_

 

LM4562 is not powerful enough for low impedance phones in a 2 ch configuration w/o buffers. It will distort due to lack of output current.


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_LM4562 is not powerful enough for low impedance phones in a 2 ch configuration w/o buffers. It will distort due to lack of output current._

 

But it sounded perfectly fine with my KSC35's, which are 60 ohms & the FX33's are 14 ohms.


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## holland

Clipping or popping? Instability can manifest itself as pops and clicks, audibly. DC offset OK? It should be, from the parts you list.

 Can you try putting a 0.1uf ceramic cap between V+ and ground and 0.1uf ceramic between V- and ground?


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## bennet

looks ghetto but hey, an amp is an amp


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bennet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_looks ghetto but hey, an amp is an amp_

 

Then make your own amp PCB, bye.


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## britishbane

Got my amp built today, had to wait on some parts I forgot to order. Doh. It sounds great, but I need to lower the gain; I'm using the 1K resistors and am gonna try the 2K. Thanks Joshatdot for making this an easy first build. Now onto making the case. I'll post pics when I'm done.


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *britishbane* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my amp built today, had to wait on some parts I forgot to order. Doh. It sounds great, but I need to lower the gain; I'm using the 1K resistors and am gonna try the 2K. Thanks Joshatdot for making this an easy first build. Now onto making the case. I'll post pics when I'm done._

 

Kool beans! I am glad you like it. What cans are you listening to with it? Good luck with casing. It might be difficult if you don't have a caliper to get the holes right.


----------



## infinitesymphony

How long 'til the next batch?


----------



## Joshatdot

I just got my PO in the email yesterday. Hopefully in a few weeks they'll arrive.


----------



## 69CamaroSS396

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bennet* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_looks ghetto but hey, an amp is an amp_

 

I can only wonder what this is supposed to mean, and exactly what the point is in even saying it, but it comes across as being pretty foolish. But hey, maybe that's what you were going for.


----------



## Joshatdot

CMoy v1.03 PCBs shipped today from OLIMEX. Should arrive in a week or so, hopefully.

 v1.03 has:
 - Bigger Input/Output through holes (YAY!)
 - All pads have slightly bigger solder/copper diameter
 - LED has a + sign


----------



## Baines93

Oh its tempting, i could probably build one, as my soldering is pretty good, and there isnt much to do......but what Opamp would i like?

 I like a little bass, but tight and depicted, clear ect. but i want a warmer sound.....so i dont know what to do. i know i will eventuslly be amazed by them, and slowly become an "audiophile", just want to get the signiture perfect. Maybe an amp with bass controll, so i can up the bass for some songs, and virtually turn it RIGHT down for other songs. Or less treble/highs, and the same bass??

 Im just rambling really, im not too good at explaining sound?!

 Basically i want a warmer sound, but dont want to dramatically increase the bass the er6i's have allready. Mostly the bass is ok for the type of music i listen too, but for some songs i want extra oomph in the bass, but dont want to carry 2 pairs of earphones (eg my cx300's too) i also could sell these to fund the amp.....Could i incorperate bass controll into it, or change opamps on the go for certain albums/artists??

 -= Matt =-


----------



## infinitesymphony

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_CMoy v1.03 PCBs shipped today from OLIMEX. Should arrive in a week or so, hopefully._

 

Sweet... I'm excited. I'll probably order two or three from this batch if all goes well.


----------



## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Baines93* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh its tempting, i could probably build one, as my soldering is pretty good, and there isnt much to do......but what Opamp would i like?

 I like a little bass, but tight and depicted, clear ect. but i want a warmer sound.....so i dont know what to do. i know i will eventuslly be amazed by them, and slowly become an "audiophile", just want to get the signiture perfect. Maybe an amp with bass controll, so i can up the bass for some songs, and virtually turn it RIGHT down for other songs. Or less treble/highs, and the same bass??

 Im just rambling really, im not too good at explaining sound?!

 Basically i want a warmer sound, but dont want to dramatically increase the bass the er6i's have allready. Mostly the bass is ok for the type of music i listen too, but for some songs i want extra oomph in the bass, but dont want to carry 2 pairs of earphones (eg my cx300's too) i also could sell these to fund the amp.....Could i incorperate bass controll into it, or change opamps on the go for certain albums/artists??

 -= Matt =-_

 

For abit more bass, I would guess OPA2107, but that's a bit expensive for a CMoy (about $13 IIRC). But I have to say the LM4562 sounds very well and a bit more bass than OPA2227, I recommend 50ohm R5's added with LM4562.

 If you're ordering parts from Digi-Key add to the parts list OPA2227, LM4562, OPA2107 if you want to try different op-amps.

 As for bass boost, I do not have the schematics or board design to make one. But I think someone here did design a CMoy w/bass boost.


----------



## Baines93

Yes J Seaber: http://jseaber.com/cMoy/

 But i need a volume controll, and if the amp i buy doesnt have one i will need to buy:

 The amp
 ZVM LOD
 Inline volume controll Or LOD with volume controll
 DC charger

 if i sold my CX300's i could afford the LOD and DC charger lol (Donations/Giveaways welcome!
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 seriously!)

 -= Matt =-


----------



## Joshatdot

*[size=medium]Joshatdot CMoy v1.03 is here![/size]
*

 Improvements:
Input/Output holes larger & the Jacks fits perfectly
All soldering Pads have larger copper diameter
LED silkscreen has *+* symbol now


----------



## infinitesymphony

A few parts questions... One of my CMoys will drive a pair of Sennheiser HD-497s, which are 32 ohms impedance. Will a higher or lower gain resistor pair in R3 be better with these low-impedance 'phones?

 Also, did you ever try a 3 KOhm resistor for RLED?

 I'm considering ordering a few parts from amb in addition to the Alps pots. The metal film capacitors (C2) from the specifications are 50v, but is it okay to use ones with higher ratings (ex. "Vishay-BC MKT370 1µF 63V MKT film capacitor")?

 Are any of amb's op-amps usable/recommended for this CMoy? (Edit: Err, nevermind, it looks like he only has one DIP-8 for sale, the Burr-Brown OPA551PA.)

 Sorry for all the questions in a row... I'm just trying to prepare everything for ordering.


----------



## fortney

Has anyone used the LM4562 in a CMoy and if so what do you think?

 I usually run my CMoy @12 V and am using 32 ohm phones (AKG K81DJ)

 TNX

 F


----------



## infinitesymphony

Which size Hammond case would be ideal for these PCBs?


----------



## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *infinitesymphony* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_A few parts questions... One of my CMoys will drive a pair of Sennheiser HD-497s, which are 32 ohms impedance. Will a higher or lower gain resistor pair in R3 be better with these low-impedance 'phones?

 Also, did you ever try a 3 KOhm resistor for RLED?

 I'm considering ordering a few parts from amb in addition to the Alps pots. The metal film capacitors (C2) from the specifications are 50v, but is it okay to use ones with higher ratings (ex. "Vishay-BC MKT370 1µF 63V MKT film capacitor")?

 Are any of amb's op-amps usable/recommended for this CMoy? (Edit: Err, nevermind, it looks like he only has one DIP-8 for sale, the Burr-Brown OPA551PA.)

 Sorry for all the questions in a row... I'm just trying to prepare everything for ordering. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

1. I usually use Gain 11 most of the time for my DAP. For portable, I've mostly be using my FX33's (16 ohm). And for home I listen with SR80's (32 ohm), and lately been auditioning my new PX100's (also 32 ohm). Experiment with different gains, 1k for gain 11, 2k for gain 6. Tangents CMoy Tweaking page

 2. I have not tested it with a 3k RLED yet, but it should be fine. A 2k RLED gets pretty bright.

 3. You can use any cap thats 5.00~5.08mm lead spacing and about 6mm wide. So the Caps you listed should fit fine.


----------



## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fortney* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone used the LM4562 in a CMoy and if so what do you think?

 I usually run my CMoy @12 V and am using 32 ohm phones (AKG K81DJ)

 TNX

 F_

 

I've been listening to my CMoy with LM4562. Its sound very balanced & detailed. But I would recommend using R5 resistors with it.


----------



## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *infinitesymphony* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which size Hammond case would be ideal for these PCBs?_

 

For two 9v batts, I think the 1455J1201 is the smallest that will work, but I have 1455C801 that will fit one 9v and the PCB.


----------



## fortney

TNX

 F


----------



## gychang

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_CMoy v1.03 PCBs shipped today from OLIMEX. Should arrive in a week or so, hopefully.

 v1.03 has:
 - Bigger Input/Output through holes (YAY!)
 - All pads have slightly bigger solder/copper diameter
 - LED has a + sign_

 

Can I order 2?, I have Grado SR60, and enjoy jazz/classical, should I just order the parts from the page 1?, any recommendations?

 gychang


----------



## gychang

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you're ordering parts from Digi-Key add to the parts list OPA2227, LM4562, OPA2107 if you want to try different op-amps._

 

is there a part that make the switching these easier?, newbie here so don't know the part name. Can this also be obtained from Digi-key?

 gychang


----------



## error401

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gychang* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_is there a part that make the switching these easier?, newbie here so don't know the part name. Can this also be obtained from Digi-key?

 gychang_

 

Are you referring to the IC socket? This is already on the BOM in the first post...


----------



## gychang

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *error401* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you referring to the IC socket? This is already on the BOM in the first post...



_

 

exactly, u guys thought of everything.

 now if I can only get some PCBs...

 gychang


----------



## Joshatdot




----------



## iewgnail

whats the size of the board?

 can it fit together with a alien dac in the 1455c802bk case?
 looking towards a real simple and portable solution


----------



## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For two 9v batts, I think the 1455J1201 is the smallest that will work, but *I have 1455C801 that will fit one 9v and the PCB.*_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iewgnail* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_whats the size of the board?

*can it fit together with a alien dac in the 1455c802bk case?*
 looking towards a real simple and portable solution_

 

I doubt both PCB's filled & with 9v batt will fit in a 1455C801/801 case. My 1455C801 fits the PCB & one 9v batt fine, wit not much room to spare.

 PCB is about 1.55" x 1.30"


----------



## dbfreak

Wunderbar!


----------



## Joshatdot

another batch came in last week


----------



## Joshatdot

my bad, I thought I was posting in my FS thread.


----------



## MisterX

Wo.... thought I was in the mall-fi section for a minute there.


----------



## MASantos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MisterX* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wo.... thought I was in the mall-fi section for a minute there. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 ................................................ well we've never seen a mall-fi ad from you for the stuff you sell
 ........................ 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




............................


----------



## MisterX

You don't see me advertising in the DIY section either do you?


----------



## Joshatdot

any of my buyers have reviews of your build & sound impressions?


----------



## infinitesymphony

Here is an updated version of the parts list I used for my three great-sounding Joshatdot PCB CMoys. I ordered most parts from Digi-Key, but the Alps potentiometer must be purchased elsewhere. amb stocks it and a few other essential parts, so I ordered from him wherever possible to avoid the handling fee for a small order.

  Code:


```
[left][b]Resistors[/b] 2 - R2, RES 100K OHM 1% 50PPM 1/2W, Vishay Dale [CMF100KHFCT-ND] 2 - R3, RES 332 OHM 1% 50PPM 1/2W, Vishay Dale [CMF332HFCT-ND] 2 - R4, RES 1.5K OHM 1% 50PPM 1/2W, Vishay Dale [CMF1.50KHFCT-ND] 0 - R5, used jumpers for these positions[/left]
```

 Code:


```
[left][b]Power Section[/b] 1 - C1, CAP 470UF 35V ELECT FM RADIAL, Panasonic FM PSU capacitor [P12415-ND] 0 - C2, used jumpers for these positions 1 - TLE2426CLP virtual ground rail splitter chip (TO-92) [296-1994-ND], or from [url=http://www.amb.org/shop/]amb[/url][/left]
```

 Code:


```
[left][b]Op-amp[/b] 1 - IC SOCKET 8 PIN .300 GOLD, DIP-8 Socket [ED90032-ND] 1 - DIP-8 op-amp, your choice (P is the audio version, PA is cheaper): Analog Devices AD823 [AD823AN-ND] Burr-Brown OPA2227[OPA2227P-ND or OPA2227PA-ND] Burr-Brown OPA2132[OPA2132P-ND or OPA2132PA-ND] Burr-Brown OPA2134[OPA2134P-ND or OPA2134PA-ND] Texas Instruments NE5532 [296-1410-5-ND or 296-7040-5-ND] Texas Instruments NE5534 [296-7042-5-ND or 296-7043-5-ND] Texas Instruments TLE2142 [296-10467-5-ND] If you elect to add decoupling capacitors on the bottom (see Extra), you can also try: National Semi. LM4562 [LM4562NA-ND] Burr-Brown OPA2228 [OPA2228P-ND or OPA2228PA-ND][/left]
```

 Code:


```
[left][b]Extra[/b] 1 - Alps RK0971221Z05 pot and switch, 10KΩ, from [url=http://www.amb.org/shop/]amb[/url] 2 - STRAP BATT ECON 9V I STYLE 4"LD, 9V Battery Straps [232K-ND] 2 - CONN JACK STEREO R/A 3PIN 3.5MM, In-out jacks [CP1-3533-ND], or from [url=http://www.amb.org/shop/]amb[/url] 1 - LED 3MM BLUE DIFF, Blue LED [350-1560-ND] 1 - RES 10.0K OHM 1% 50PPM 1/2W, Vishay Dale resistor for LED [CMF10.0KHFCT-ND] (go with a lower-valued resistor if you want a brighter light) 1 - knob, search for 'aluminum knob .50' and filter your choices to 6mm diameter; I chose the ML series in black matte [226-4003-ND] 1 - (pack of two) 0.1µF 50V Hi-Q Ceramic Disc Capacitor Pk/2, ceramic capacitors for decoupling, Radio Shack [[url=http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062365]272-135[/url]][/left]
```

*Notes:* Feel free to substitute a higher-valued Panasonic FM radial capacitor for C1, since 470uF can barely fit directly on the board anyway. C2 input capacitors are only necessary if DC offset from your playback device is a concern; most devices have output capacitors. R5 resistors are only necessary if you have very low-impedance headphones.

 You can also change the ratio of R4 and R3 resistors if you want a gain other than ~5.54. Gain calculation is (R4/R3) + 1. Stick with a gain of above 5 for maximum compatibility.

 I highly recommend adding decoupling capacitors to the bottom so that the use of the National LM4562 op-amp becomes possible--it sounds great!


----------



## edguetzow

Joshatdot, in reference to your sale ad for the cmoy boards, I would be willing (depending on price) to order as many as 5 boards. Perhaps you could get enough commitments from the folks on here to get you to the magic 60? I would, of course, pay you in advance!


----------



## Joshatdot

Sure sure...just after posting on my FS, I emailed Olimex to ask for a quote for 5 panels. Hopefully its a good deal, otherwise I'll look else were.


----------



## error401

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sure sure...just after posting on my FS, I emailed Olimex to ask for a quote for 5 panels. Hopefully its a good deal, otherwise I'll look else were._

 

Olimex is still a ridiculously good deal for runs like this. I recently did a quote at Advanced Circuits for a similar sized board, and the per-board cost before shipping was around $10, for a 50 qty order. I think with Olimex, if you're fitting 12 boards on a DSS panel, you're getting them for under $4 USD before shipping - at smaller quantities to boot.

 If you do go looking for an alternative, avoid CustomPCB. Board quality is pretty bad; a lot of the time you do get what you pay for...


----------



## Joshatdot

OLIMEX prices for a DSS panel is 30 EURO, and depending on the USD, its like 1euro ~ $1.47usd now.


----------



## infinitesymphony

Joshatdot, I'll bet if you created a new board revision that included a lot of the requested changes (flat-mounted resistors, decoupling capacitor slots, etc.), you could generate a fair amount of interest on other forums.

 As far as I know, Zigis's board is the only other CMoy PCB with decoupling pads.


----------



## Joshatdot

i dont think ZIGIS's fits in a mint tin


----------



## geestring

sorry, where is the thread that you are selling these boards? will this board work well with the standard cmoy guide?


----------



## Joshatdot

Yes my layout/part names are the same as Tangents, except the TLE rail splitter.

 I am waiting for the PCB's to arrive from OLIMEX, holefully next week.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...boards-253920/


----------



## infinitesymphony

Also, only one power capacitor. It's a single C1 split into two channels with a railsplitter, versus the original CMoy, which has one power capacitor per channel.


----------



## Blutarsky

Hello,

 These two components are backordered at digi-key. Anyplace else online I can find them? Looked at both values and neither in stock, any ideas or extras?

 P12415-NDCAP 470UF 35V ELECT FM RADIAL
 P12383-NDCAP 220UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL

 V/r,
 Scott


----------



## error401

Substitute P12416-ND for P12415-ND and P12412-ND for P12383-ND. Larger values are usually acceptable substitutes for large electrolytic capacitors if you don't overdo it. Larger voltages are always acceptable if the part will still fit in its allocated space.


----------



## infinitesymphony

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Blutarsky* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hello,

 These two components are backordered at digi-key. Anyplace else online I can find them? Looked at both values and neither in stock, any ideas or extras?

 P12415-NDCAP 470UF 35V ELECT FM RADIAL
 P12383-NDCAP 220UF 25V ELECT FM RADIAL

 V/r,
 Scott_

 

Digi-Key's search feature rocks, and now is your time to learn how to use it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Head to the main page, search for "panasonic fm capacitor," click Electrolytic - Aluminum. In the Capacitance box, click and drag everything from 470uF and higher. In the Voltage - Rated box, click and drag everything from 25V and higher. Check the In Stock box and click Apply Filters.

 Any part from the resulting list will work. If space is a consideration (ex. Altoids tin), keep in mind that higher capacitance = taller, and higher voltage = wider.

 The best part about Digi-Key is that most parts have pictures. You can find them two ways: click on the part number, then click the part number link by "Technical/Catalog Information," and there should be a product photo link. Or, scroll to the right of your initial search results and click the D graphic--it will take you to the catalog information as well.


----------



## Blutarsky

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *infinitesymphony* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Digi-Key's search feature rocks, and now is your time to learn how to use it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 



  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *error401* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Substitute P12416-ND for P12415-ND and P12412-ND for P12383-ND. Larger values are usually acceptable substitutes for large electrolytic capacitors if you don't overdo it. Larger voltages are always acceptable if the part will still fit in its allocated space._

 

Thanks guys for the quick replies and help! I am really looking forward to this....
 V/r,
 Scott


----------



## Joshatdot

For the PSU cap, its 3mm lead spacing, 5mm diameter & 8mm tall. Anything similar to that will work, Panny FM's are in my BOM because they are considered best.


----------



## aphexii

Bumping an old thread!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 As per the BOM, anyone out there able to explain the subtle differences in each of these and why one would be better than the other?

 2495-1119-NDCAP 1.0UF 63V METAL POLYC2
 2alt478-3367-NDCAP POLYFILM BOX 1.0UF 63V 5%C2
 2alt478-3375-NDCAP POLYFILM BOX 1.0UF 63V 10%C2
 2alt495-2470-NDCAP 1.0UF 63V METAL POLYC2
 2alt495-2822-NDCAP 1.0UF 10% 63V METAL POLYC2
 2alt399-5443-NDCAP FILM MKT 1UF 63VDC 5MMC2


----------



## Joshatdot

I cannot answer that, I am no EE. I do not know what is best, jsut that any 5.00~5.08mm 1.0uF ploy cap will work.


----------



## aphexii

One more question, if I decide to use a single 9v, do I have to change anything else in the build? Or do I simply just wire a single battery strap?


----------



## infinitesymphony

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aphexii* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One more question, if I decide to use a single 9v, do I have to change anything else in the build? Or do I simply just wire a single battery strap?_

 

Nope, no changes necessary, though some op-amps won't like the lower voltage (check the datasheet to be sure). Parts changes would only be necessary if you planned to use a higher voltage than specified, since the V rating on the capacitors is their limit.


----------



## aphexii

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *infinitesymphony* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nope, no changes necessary, though some op-amps won't like the lower voltage (check the datasheet to be sure). Parts changes would only be necessary if you planned to use a higher voltage than specified, since the V rating on the capacitors is their limit._

 

Awesome, thanks! I plan to use the OPA2227, but am going to try to fit the entire thing into a Zippo tin if possible (slightly smaller than an Altoids, but room for only a single 9v)

 Think there would be a noticeable decrease in SQ?


----------



## infinitesymphony

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aphexii* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Awesome, thanks! I plan to use the OPA2227, but am going to try to fit the entire thing into a Zippo tin if possible (slightly smaller than an Altoids, but room for only a single 9v)

 Think there would be a noticeable decrease in SQ?_

 

The datasheet for OPA2227 says that the operating range is 2.5 to 18.0 V, so it doesn't appear to be a picky op-amp regarding voltage. Some people believe more power is better even for op-amps like these, but since it's not picky, there is not likely to be a significant audible difference, though there will be a difference in battery life.


----------



## aphexii

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *infinitesymphony* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The datasheet for OPA2227 says that the operating range is 2.5 to 18.0 V, so it doesn't appear to be a picky op-amp regarding voltage. Some people believe more power is better even for op-amps like these, but since it's not picky, there is not likely to be a significant audible difference, though there will be a difference in battery life._

 

I appreciate the help, thanks!

 One more newb question, if I decide not to use the optional R5 resistors, do I have to just use a plain jumper in that spot? Or can I leave it empty?


----------



## infinitesymphony

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aphexii* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_One more newb question, if I decide not to use the optional R5 resistors, do I have to just use a plain jumper in that spot? Or can I leave it empty?_

 

Something must be bridging those connections, otherwise the circuit won't be completed. Use a jumper.


----------



## aphexii

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *infinitesymphony* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Something must be bridging those connections, otherwise the circuit won't be completed. Use a jumper. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Gotcha thanks.

 One more newb question if I may. Between the positive and negative battery strap soldering pads (directly below the 8 pin dip) is a smaller hole. Do I just solder a straight small jumper in there? (almost like a plug?)

LINK


----------



## infinitesymphony

I can't remember what Josh said that was for, but yes, as far as I remember I just soldered in a jumper and nipped off the ends on both sides, which is what seems to be going on in that picture.


----------



## funch

AFAIK it's just a pass-through from one side of the board to the other. I built 5 amps using Josh's boards and didn't do a thing with that hole, and they all worked fine.


----------



## aphexii

Whew! All done! Thanks for the help guys!

 I am not doing too well putting this thing into a tin though, even using a template I'm having a heck of a time getting the holes properly sized and lined up properly.

 I'm really considering getting that tiny Hammond case (~$13) and getting a custom Front Panel Express, which came out to ~ $16 plus shipping. Around $30 total, might not be a bad solution for me as the case is killing me


----------



## Joshatdot

Dang it's been busy here last few days!

 Sorry I didn't answer the questions myself, I was working & went to my grandpa's 90th b-day.

 I've wanted to do a PFX for a Hammond case, but I got impatient with its program and didn't design.

 What problems are you having with mint tin case?


----------



## aphexii

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Dang it's been busy here last few days!

 Sorry I didn't answer the questions myself, I was working & went to my grandpa's 90th b-day.

 I've wanted to do a PFX for a Hammond case, but I got impatient with its program and didn't design.

 What problems are you having with mint tin case?_

 

No prob. I think my paper punch just sucks, it almost had me crying like a little girl trying to break through both an altoids tin and the zippo tin I wanted to try. I eventually make it through, but its not turning out so well as I had to push so hard it started to disfigure the tin 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Then i tried punching the line outs and it went down from there. Just so hard to make it through, the punch slipped to the side a bit and now the holes don't line up...

 I actually got the design of the PFX done I think, just trying to decide if i want to spend the $30 on the case total (PFX + Enclosure). Though, the idea of a black enclosure with black fill letters just makes me smile 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have to say though, I'm kinda amazed I got this thing to work on the first try. Sounds GREAT! I'm using a single 9v, vishay's, 2227, white LED. Though right now, i'm enjoying it as it sits on a antistatic bag 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Great job on the PCB btw, really helps out the newbs such as myself! THANKS!

 EDIT: Just had an idea. My dad is big into woodworking, wonder if he could craft a small wooden case for me. Hmmmm.


----------



## Joshatdot

That would be cool..it would be like a RA clone


----------



## Sotiris

has anyone used 2 opa134pa? i have them and i have problem with the virtual ground.the volts before connecting the opa's is 4,5 and 4,5 at the capacitors.but when i connect them it falls to 7 volts and 1.i dont use TLE2426 but the classic resistors and capacitors.so the soun is heavily distorted.


----------



## fortney

A CMoy in a Hammond case, etc. would look very nice. The main virtues of the Altoids tin is that it is cheap and once was unusual... 

 I mounted mine in a plastic polycarbonate case and have been happy with it that way.

 F


----------



## bidoux

Where can I get this Cmoy board ?


----------



## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bidoux* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where can I get this Cmoy board ?_

 

here http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...boards-253920/


----------



## aphexii

So the Unibit seems to be working great for poking holes, I just need to figure out how to line everything up perfectly so the holes are in the right places. 

 Maybe a sheet of paper?


----------



## diredesire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aphexii* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No prob. I think my paper punch just sucks, it almost had me crying like a little girl trying to break through both an altoids tin and the zippo tin I wanted to try. I eventually make it through, but its not turning out so well as I had to push so hard it started to disfigure the tin 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Then i tried punching the line outs and it went down from there. Just so hard to make it through, the punch slipped to the side a bit and now the holes don't line up...

 I actually got the design of the PFX done I think, just trying to decide if i want to spend the $30 on the case total (PFX + Enclosure). Though, the idea of a black enclosure with black fill letters just makes me smile 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have to say though, I'm kinda amazed I got this thing to work on the first try. Sounds GREAT! I'm using a single 9v, vishay's, 2227, white LED. Though right now, i'm enjoying it as it sits on a antistatic bag 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Great job on the PCB btw, really helps out the newbs such as myself! THANKS!

 EDIT: Just had an idea. My dad is big into woodworking, wonder if he could craft a small wooden case for me. Hmmmm._

 

You may want to move the amp to something other than an anti static bag 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They're conductive AFAIK.


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *aphexii* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the Unibit seems to be working great for poking holes, I just need to figure out how to line everything up perfectly so the holes are in the right places. 

 Maybe a sheet of paper?_

 

Let me find the AI export of my mint tin layout...if you print it with a 600 dpi printer it should be exact match.

 no go ... the AI file I made was custom size & DPI, so printing would not be 1:1 match. I'll work on a new one..


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## aphexii

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Let me find the AI export of my mint tin layout...if you print it with a 600 dpi printer it should be exact match.

 no go ... the AI file I made was custom size & DPI, so printing would not be 1:1 match. I'll work on a new one.._

 

Thanks man, I appreciate it!!!


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## bidoux

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_here http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...boards-253920/_

 

Thank you! Do you have some left and would you ship to France?


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## Joshatdot

PDF of mint tin

http://www.cnw.com/~josh/Head-Fi/Altoids_Tin.pdf


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## sandbasser

Hi-

 Is a Panasonic SU bipolar cap a viable substitute for the Panasonic FM???

 Thanks,


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## Nicolas2305

Just sent an order to AMD for the parts for 2 Mini³ uncluding the pots for hopefully 3 cMoy. 

 I plan to build wooden boxes for the cMoy. My dad have lots of woodworking tools so it will be easy to build those, he also have some exotic wood leftovers I'll be able to use. My plan is to eventually build some Mini³ with wooden enclosures so while doing the cMoy, I'll practice soldering and woodworking skills.

 I'll be sure to keep you posted when I finish those.


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## Nicolas2305

I'd like to know if there's a BOM availible for Mouser somewhere with equivalent parts that will fit the board. I've done some ressearch but I'm too noob and there's so much stuff in here that I can't figure out wich one to choose.


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## Joshatdot

I have not researched a BOM for Mouser. I'll look into it sometime.


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## Nicolas2305

Hi there, I did some search, I found those from Mouser. I'd like to know if these are equivalent to the parts in the Digikey BOM.

 The reason I work so hard on Mouser is because they ship USPS and I would like to avoid UPS or FedEx.

  Code:


```
[left]Mouser part numberQtyCustomer Reference =========================================================== 598-AFK337M25F24T-F1C1 594-2222-021-381082C2 71-RN65D-F-100K2R2 71-RN65D-F-2.0K2R3 Gain of 6 71-RN65D-F-1.0K2R3 Gain of 11 71-RN65D-F-10K2R4 71-RN65D-F-49.92R5 (Optional) 71-RN65D-F-4.02K1RLED 575-110433081Socket 595-OPA2227PA1Op-Amp 595-TLE2426CLP1Virtual GND 534-23229v Batt Straps 2In/Out Jacks 696-SSL-LX3044USBD1LED Blue 506-KB500B1/41Knob[/left]
```

 Code:


```
[left]for use in the Mouser BOM import tool: 598-AFK337M25F24T-F|1 594-2222-021-38108|2 71-RN65D-F-100K|2 71-RN65D-F-2.0K|2 71-RN65D-F-1.0K|2 71-RN65D-F-10K|2 71-RN65D-F-49.9|2 71-RN65D-F-4.02K|1 575-11043308|1 595-OPA2227PA|1 595-TLE2426CLP|1 534-232|2 696-SSL-LX3044USBD|1 506-KB500B1/4|1[/left]
```

As you can see, I haven't found any in/out jacks because I don't know what exactly to search. there should be a part that fit the board holes but I don't konw if there are any standards or such things.

 Thanks for all your help!


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## Hayduke

Nicolas, I'll see what I can find on Mouser later tonight. I think I ordered my input/output jacks from DigiKey.

 I finally put together my cmoys on these boards last weekend. There seems to be a slight sort of echo sound. Any ideas what could be causing it?

 I'm using an OPA2132 though. I'll stick a 227 in and give it a listen. I think all my solder joints are good, but I'll double (well quadruple since I triple check while I am soldering) check them all again tonight.


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## Pars

Check the jack and pot wiring... (I don;t recall if the pot is board mounted or not?)


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## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pars* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Check the jack and pot wiring... (I don;t recall if the pot is board mounted or not?)_

 

Yes, the pot (Alps RK097) is mounted to the PCB.

 Ya, I am going to reflow all the solder joints when I get home tonight. I thought I gave them a pretty good inspection, but it's very possible I missed something. I don't think it's a problem with the board or anything, and the cmoy I built on breadboard works just fine, so it has to be something about the way I built it.

 I doubt this has any bearing on the issue, but my LED doesn't work either. I suspect I either wired it backwards or overheated it. I wasn't too worried about that so I haven't done any troubleshooting on that either.

 I did find that one channel had a DC offset if a tiny bit more then .2V (~.21V if I recall), but the other channel was only about 0.12V. Maybe that's related. I'm planning to add some decoupling caps similar to how InfiniteSymphony did with his amps built on these boards.

 Thanks for the response. I was asking to see if there was a particular area of the circuit I should concentrate on, and it sounds like there is


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## Joshatdot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nicolas2305* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi there, I did some search, I found those from Mouser. I'd like to know if these are equivalent to the parts in the Digikey BOM.

 The reason I work so hard on *Mouser is because they ship USPS* and I would like to avoid UPS or FedEx.

 ~snip~

 As you can see, I haven't found any in/out jacks because I don't know what exactly to search. there should be a part that fit the board holes but I don't konw if there are any standards or such things.

 Thanks for all your help!_

 

Digi-Key can ship USPS too


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## error401

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Joshatdot* 
_Digi-Key can ship USPS too_

 

DigiKey Canada will only ship via UPS Worldwide Saver for a flat rate of $8, probably due to their somewhat unique import requirements. It used to be Purolator but they've recently changed.
  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nicolas2305* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The reason I work so hard on Mouser is because they ship USPS and I would like to avoid UPS or FedEx._

 

If you're doing this because of customs and brokerage fees, you need not worry. If you order from DigiKey Canada the parts will arrive free of brokerage and customs fees. Plus you get the stuff basically next-day for the same money instead of in two weeks.

 I use DigiKey Canada a lot and I've never had a problem, though it does tend to be slightly more expensive.


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## cobaltmute

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *error401* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_DigiKey Canada will only ship via UPS Worldwide Saver for a flat rate of $8, probably due to their somewhat unique import requirements. It used to be Purolator but they've recently changed._

 

They seem to have closed their warehouse in Winnipeg and moved everything to Thief River Falls, MN. I think they are holding the product in bond down their now (so we don't pay duty). Purolator has no service in the US.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *error401* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I use DigiKey Canada a lot and I've never had a problem, though it does tend to be slightly more expensive._

 

I've just noticed this week that Mouser has localized for Canada (you can order in CDN $ ). Their prices are good on some stuff (like resistors), but on others it is a bit more expensive compared to Digikey so it is probably a wash. The only thing is the different selection from Mouser. But the $20 for FedEx from them is a bit ugly.

 I've never order from Mouser - does anyone know if you pay duty on the items coming into Canada?


----------



## error401

Quote:


 I've just noticed this week that Mouser has localized for Canada (you can order in CDN $ ). Their prices are good on some stuff (like resistors), but on others it is a bit more expensive compared to Digikey so it is probably a wash. The only thing is the different selection from Mouser. But the $20 for FedEx from them is a bit ugly. 
 

Interesting, right behind NewEgg localizing for here. Great to see, online business in Canada is pretty far behind the USA! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Usually if companies specifically localize, they will handle import duties, but I'm not sure about Mouser in this case since it doesn't look like they're charging GST. The shipping services (UPS Worldwide Saver and FedEx Priority) they use include brokerage, so all you'd be paying at the door is GST anyway, which is fair. They'll also ship USPS for a more reasonable price. I might try them out.


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## Nicolas2305

The reason I was going for Mouser is because I wanted to avoid the brokerage from UPS or FedEx and have everything shipped via USPS. If you tell me that DigiKey will ship via UPS for $8 with no customs or brokerage fees, I'll be most pleased!

 Everyone had good experience from DigiKey?

 EDIT: NM, just read Error401 post in last page, I'll definitely order from DigiKey since they seem the best option for canadian buyers.


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## DaMnEd

Just make sure you use your local website, if you use the main site the fees wont be pre-paid, only the local websites include the fees on the prices.

 I've used DigiKey for some stuff here in Europe, only thing due at delivery is the VAT, and that I cannot escape 

 The good thing is that from December 1 forward the maximum value from where VAT starts to be due is going to be raised, from 22€ to 150€, the particular law had not been updated since 1983... Hence the 150€, that equates to 22€ with inflation etc. at that time.


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## cobaltmute

Digikey Canada

 Nothing due on delivery, no duty, GST paid on the bill. Order before 8pm CST (I think) and it is in your hands next morning for $8CDN. Makes the $20 from Mouser look bad.


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## Nicolas2305

I already ordered, at Digikey Canada. I sent a huge order so I won't have to send multiple orders, paying $8 for an order of $20 is just not my thing so I ordered parts for 3 CMoy with the joshatdot v1.3 board and 2 Mini³. I already sent my orderd to AMB including the extra pots for the CMoy.

 3 CMoy to get some soldering skills
 2 Mini³ because I intend to try a Mini³ with an integrated Bantam DAC

 I also went through the Tangent video tutorials. The only thing left to get is a soldering Iron wich is a major part and some 3.5mm jacks to make an IC to actually enjoy all those amp.

 After all this, I will try somme full size amp.


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## Hayduke

I've ordered from DigiKey and Mouser. DigiKey is fine, but they have messed up my orders twice. They just shipped the wrong part. They were good about getting me the right part though, so it in no way makes me not want to order from them again. I am just letting you know to check your order carefully when you get it. The first time, I didn't even realize until weeks later that they had sent some RCA connectors instead of mini connectors. The more recent time, they sent me some huge resistors instead of some aluminum knobs 
 It would only be an issue if you were anxious to get a particular part, but it's a good idea to double check everything even if you won't be using the parts for awhile.


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## cobaltmute

Having worked in warehouse and supply chain for many years, it is always a good idea to check upon receipt. Order Pickers can make mistakes.


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## Nicolas2305

I already intended to check on my order upon reception since I have 35 different Items.

 Thanks for all the help.


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## Nicolas2305

Just got my parts from Digikey, it took about 24h after placing the order to get the parts, I checked everything and it's perfect! I'll definitely order from them for my other projects!!

 Now waiting for the boards, getting excited!!


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## dd051

If I fry a solder pad (so the tan colored PCB material is showing) on the bottom of a board, is the board pretty much done for?


----------



## infinitesymphony

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dd051* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I fry a solder pad (so the tan colored PCB material is showing) on the bottom of a board, is the board pretty much done for?_

 

If you can determine where the pad eventually leads, you can just jumper whatever leg was supposed to go in that hole into its destination instead. Or you could try reseating the pad somehow. It's a hard lesson, and one that I learned on my first Radio Shack CMoy--don't use too much or too little heat, don't hold the iron on the board for too long, and don't pull a wire/jumper away from a pad if the solder joint has had a chance to cool.


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## Nicolas2305

I just finished my first CMoy, unfortunately I can't test it since I don't have any 9v batteries. 

 I was wondering If the tangeant power jack mod would work with the board. I know there would be some wiring needed (adding "OR" diodes and power jack) and maybe I won't try it since I don't have the parts at hand and don't want to place an order only for those, I was just curious.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nicolas2305* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just finished my first CMoy, unfortunately I can't test it since I don't have any 9v batteries. 

 I was wondering If the tangeant power jack mod would work with the board. I know there would be some wiring needed (adding "OR" diodes and power jack) and maybe I won't try it since I don't have the parts at hand and don't want to place an order only for those, I was just curious._

 

It would work fine. The parts you need to make the change won't really affect the SQ, so Radio Shack parts should be fine. All you're adding are 2 diodes and a power connector. The power supply you choose however, will have a HUGE impact on the sound.


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## Nicolas2305

I have a power supply for a mini³ as suggested in the amb BOM. I'll have a look to see if it'll be enough.

 I assume I'll just have to link both negatives at the same place and both positive at the same place with the diodes on each power input. That's how I see it in Tangeant tutorial.


----------

