# The Wire Headphone Amplifier



## psgarcha92

Hey guys,
  has anybody tried The Wire amplifier?
  balanced operation interests me.....
   
  http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphones/179298-wire-ultra-high-performance-headphone-amplifier-pcbs.html


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## elliot42

The only mention I've seen of it here is in the "List of DIY Headphone Amps" thread (http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/537398/list-of-diy-headphone-amplifiers) where qusp said he was building one. I read a bit on DIYAudio but haven't heard one.


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## psgarcha92

That means nobody built one, right?
  i would be building one the next week.
  the pictures show XLR ports, thats makes me curious, is that a totally balanced amp?
  am also confused because it uses a stereo input jack, as seen in the pics


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## Avro_Arrow

"The Wire" uses a balanced input and single ended output.


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## L-Train

I've built one and Avro_Arrow is correct, it uses a balanced input and outputs single-ended.  Sound-wise, all I can say is that it has permanently replaced my Gilmore Lite as my desktop amp.


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## psgarcha92

How much did the Gilmore Lite cost u, and how much did the wire cost u?


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## L-Train

The Gilmore Lite was  $300 used, and the kit for "The Wire" was $95 but didn't include a volume control, input/output jacks, chassis, and some of the non-SMD parts.


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## peranders

Quote: 





psgarcha92 said:


> ...the pictures show XLR ports, thats makes me curious, is that a totally balanced amp?
> am also confused because it uses a stereo input jack...


 
  The documentation is published so all you have to do is to look at the schematic.
  
  Besides that I think it's a good design, well done.


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## jamess71

Quote: 





l-train said:


> The Gilmore Lite was  $300 used, and the kit for "The Wire" was $95 but didn't include a volume control, input/output jacks, chassis, and some of the non-SMD parts.


 


  Where did you get the kit? thanks


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## L-Train

Quote: 





jamess71 said:


> Where did you get the kit? thanks


 


 I took part in the original group buy at diyAudio.  As far as I know there are no more kits left.


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## qusp

brilliant amp, best sounding SE output headphone amp i have heard. nimble yet brutal. it just goes to show that good design and proper grounding can be almost inseparable from fully balanced operation. i havent heard it with se input though, so i guess its not your normal case. a great thing about it is its so small that given a reasonably covpact power supply its really no problem to drop it into a balanced system for the se output as i'm doing; mounted right next to the output jack. doesnt sound like a chipamp at all, i have no problem with chips, in fact i like them, but in general i'm a discrete fan, but this doesnt sound like a chipamp, because it doesnt really sound at all.
   
  its basically an instrumentation amp with buffered output, using the best performance chips of today. no caps in the signal path, dc coupled input and output. psrr up the wazoo. ticks all the boxes really


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## psgarcha92

Using it with an unbalanced source, would that be attainable? Plus, qusp, is there any way u can check how it sounds with Single ended input? Also, would a proper PCB be very necessary if i want to build this? Would poing to point diy method work here?


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## qusp

using it with an unbalanced source? you would be better off finding another amp tbh. and no, absolutely not a good idea wiring this up on perfboard, for starters the bom is 99% high quality surface mount parts, with all the chips not being available in any other form and the amp leverages the use of a ground plane and very compact layout/short traces for a good part of its performance. its such a wideband design that it would be oscillation city and to make it stable you would have to add compensation destroying one of the best things about it ie no caps anywhere in the signal.
   
  in short, you have just wiped out every single one of its best attributes. i actually dont have any unbalanced sources apart from some old portable gear, probably not the best test and i use the sabre's digital volume control, so i dont have a pot to control volume with other sources, i really dont think its a good idea unless it was just a temporary thing until you got a balanced source sorted. even as it is its so wideband, you have to be careful all signal connections need to be very neat and use with a source not having any dc


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## peranders

Quote: 





psgarcha92 said:


> Using it with an unbalanced source, would that be attainable?


 

 Just grounding one of the inputs.


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## qusp

like i said, just build another amp if tyhats the choice you have, the performance would be severely effected by running with the input grounded. kinda like star grounding a pair of monoblocks together


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## KnightOfAwesome

Opc is having talk of a round 2. He also would like some input on a couple of things.
   
  Dang, hopefully I can swindle my way into getting a couple boards just to have.


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## jdkJake

Another "Wire" comes to life:
   

   
   
  Figured I should finally build this one and get Owen some feedback before the next release. I was hoping to post a finished amp with case work and all, but, I misjudged the completely massive size of the utterly ridiculous attenuator solution I am employing. Yep, the case I bought is not tall enough, DOH!! 
   


 Oh well, instead it remains a work in progress. In any case, she lives! This is my third build with SMD and I forgot how much a PITA it can be working with components this small.  I am not kidding, this is the densest SMD build I have attempted yet. I would take a different build tactic next time. It is a bit sloppy, but, acceptable. The amp itself worked first time powered up. I had an issue with an unsoldered side of R15 on the power supply that prevented adjustment of the -15 rail, but, that was a quick fix. From there on, it was smooth sailing.

 Since I do not have a balanced source (yet), this one is build single-ended with a gain of 2. This worked out well as I really wanted to try out the Khozmo stepped attenuator. Yes, in this situation, it seems completely overkill (and it is), but why not? Life's short. I really like the Khozmo. The additional steps make a big difference.

 The sound is very nice. Extremely sensitive. You will have to pay particular attention to layout and casing to control pickup of noise. I had to move a few things around to get things totally quiet. Even then, any flaws with the source are picked up, so, be warned. Proper layout and casing will go along way with this build.

 I have to spend some more time with it, but early impressions are quite positive. The highs are clear and extended, the bass extremely deep and very, very much in control. It steps out of the way and lets the source come through nicely. 

 BTW, in this last pic, the amp is on top of my State of Florida Drivers License. Yes, it is THAT small!!


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## Anaxilus

.


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## Paul Blythe

jdkJake, that looks quite a nice build...
   
  He's doing a 50 of each type GB at the moment [possibly sold out], but there are 3 versions of the headphone amp: balanced - balanced, balanced - se and se - se. All as a pcb only or as a kit.


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## qusp

yeah it seems just after my post yesterday saying it was open again it was closed. Pretty sure hes got more pcbs going by his earlier posts and the numbers on the wiki, but probably he just wanted to start winding it up so he can get back to his life designing high end COMMERCIAL audio products


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## qusp

measurements of the SE-SE version over at DIYA....
   
  hahaha they are pretty absurd


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## palchiu

I'm on list 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I'll build Balanced amp, can't wait to get "The wire"


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## qusp

hey Jake, just an idea mate, if you havent bought another case yet; how about since the attenuator, ridiculously large as it is; is something of an architectural masterpiece, you cut out an area in the roof of the chassis to accommodate it and make it a sort of feature? it could actually look quite cool.
   
  just a thought


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## jdkJake

Quote: 





qusp said:


> hey Jake, just an idea mate, if you havent bought another case yet; how about since the attenuator, ridiculously large as it is; is something of an architectural masterpiece, you cut out an area in the roof of the chassis to accommodate it and make it a sort of feature? it could actually look quite cool.
> 
> just a thought


 

 Interesting idea.
   
  I am currently using a different attenuator and case solution for the amp shown above. I am not in love with either (case or attenuator), so, perhaps going in that direction should be seriously considered.
   
  Thanks for the suggestion.


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## bcg27

Cool idea. Those khozmo smd attenuators really look a lot like rk50s, it would be neat to showcase it.


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## qusp

Quote: 





jdkjake said:


> Interesting idea.
> 
> I am currently using a different attenuator and case solution for the amp shown above. I am not in love with either (case or attenuator), so, perhaps going in that direction should be seriously considered.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion.


 


  no problem, it just struck me, because they are pretty seriously sexy attenuators and given the CNC alloy look it would be pretty easy to do that without making it look out of place. youde probably want to try and bevel the cutout on the inside so it sits reasonably flush. its actually more of a shame to hide it away.


  Quote: 





bcg27 said:


> Cool idea. Those khozmo smd attenuators really look a lot like rk50s, it would be neat to showcase it.


 

 indeed


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## palchiu

If I have khozmo, I'll like this style


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## palchiu

Received my Bal-Bal


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## Paul Clark

Looks interesting.  Looking forward to your review.  I may pursue this one if there is another GB.


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## ylingf

I have built and used my bal-bal amp for a few weeks now.  It is definitely true to its name - just like a piece of wire, utterly transparent.
   
  Some pictures:
  https://plus.google.com/photos/100195596840707097796/albums/5691975215218591265


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## dazedbus

I built mine as well.  Have yet to upload pictures for owen, but performs exactly as described and is sound controlled by the buffalo it is connected to.


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## Tribbs

I'm jealous!
   
  I was late following the thread on the other site so missed out on the GB.  Although I thought the organizer said he will announce when some "defectve" BAL-SE boards will be available after all the other boards were shipped.  Anyone know if this to has already passed?  I don't want to ask directly since the GB organizer had complained of too many PMs. Recently he stated they are all gone now.  Anyone here know for sure?  Any chance of another GB?


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## qusp

no defective Bal-SE boards were made, i assume you mean SE-SE and yes they are all gone. i have a BAL-SE PCB from the first gen you can buy if you like? no changes to the design, just a few changes to the layout


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## Tribbs

Thanks for the offer - I may be interested...
   
  Why was there a change to the BAL-SE layout?
  Was there a noise issue with the 1st gen. PCB layout?


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## qusp

nothing wrong with the layout at all, no noise issue unless you dont pay attention to signal and power supply wiring, but thats the same with any of them as its a DC coupled input and output, very wideband amplifier. he probably just took the opportunity to make it thinner or just more inline with the other new amps layouts when he was doing the new PCBs, parts are identical and from the measurements the performance is identical


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## Tribbs

Quote: 





qusp said:


> i have a BAL-SE PCB from the first gen you can buy if you like?


 

 OK, PM'd


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## perfidoclone

Hello,
  I'm looking for a BAL-BAL, if anybody want to sell it please let me know..
  thank you,
   
  Matteo
  Italy


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## Mullet

I'm sure I'm late to the party. If anyone has a lead on a SE-SE PCB let me know. I'd love to compare this amp to the O2.


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## Tribbs

Quote: 





ylingf said:


> I have built and used my bal-bal amp for a few weeks now.  It is definitely true to its name - just like a piece of wire, utterly transparent.
> 
> Some pictures:
> https://plus.google.com/photos/100195596840707097796/albums/5691975215218591265


 
   
  Which enclosure and torroid did you use?  Looks nice.


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## Mullet

I've sourced a SE-SE rework PCB, just need a power supply PCB to get this going. If all else fails I know I do have a bunch of power supply options. I have some time before I start this project so I figured I'd try. Another CTH project fell into my lap, so I have to build that first.


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## ylingf

I used Box Enclosure
  http://www.boxenclosures.com/category/category_product.html?cats__id=1072
   
  And Antek transformer
  http://www.antekinc.com/lview.php?d[]=0


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## Tribbs

Quote: 





ylingf said:


> And Antek transformer
> http://www.antekinc.com/lview.php?d[]=0


 
   
  Did you use the 12Vdc or 15Vdc torroid?
  Oh, and which fused AC switch panel did you use on your enclosure?
  Thanks!


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## skeptic

Just stumbled on the fact that a new GB for The Wire is going on at diyaudio for those of us who missed out on the initial goaround.  Excited!  Link: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/237152-wire-official-boards-all-projects-available-here-bal-bal-se-se-lpuhp.html


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## Mullet

I'm glad opc is making all of his "wire" amps available for the DIY world to enjoy. IMO The Wire SE-SE is better than the O2 in terms of resolution and detail. It requires a bit more space though with a power supply and transformer, but it's worth it.


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## brunk

Bumping this thread since more boards are going out. I just made payment for a BAL-BAL and PSU board. I can't wait to get it started! I'm currently ordering my parts list and I'm wondering, what is a good quality/price PSU for the BAL-BAL? Is there a decent case on ebay that can fit all of it for a good price too? TIA


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## skeptic

Aren't you getting OPC's psu?


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## brunk

skeptic said:


> Aren't you getting OPC's psu?


 
 Yes. I should've clarified as to what toroidal is a good choice for this setup. I was recommended this one so far. Is there anything better for the price?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/VPT24-2080/237-1332-ND/2090070


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## cloudalmasai

Hi, I would suggest this power transformer
  
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/70043K/1295-1043-ND/3881436
  
 The one that you posted is a 50VA, way too much for the headphone amp - BAL-BAL or SE-SE, you only need circa of 10VA.
  
 The Talema one is pc pin mounted, is his only downside.


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## Mullet

I like the Amveco toroids... I used this in my SE-SE...
  
 http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=TE62043-ND&x=0&y=0&formaction=on


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## brunk

mullet said:


> I like the Amveco toroids... I used this in my SE-SE...
> 
> http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=TE62043-ND&x=0&y=0&formaction=on


 
 Is 10VA adequate for the BAL-BAL though? That's what I'm building...


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## Mullet

I would say yes, but your best bet is to ask on diyaudio.com where the main thread is located.


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## bala

Anything suggestions for the case? This will also be my first build with some "casework" - glad to have some input on any special tools that would be needed! I have the usual wire cutters,strippers,screwdrivers etc.


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## Mullet

You can use any case you like. Look on eBay for amp chassis and you should be able to find something to suit your needs. I'd say keep the transformer away from the amp pcb. Both boards are fairly small so you don't need a huge case for this. Do some more research and take a look at a site like this for some ideas...
  
 http://www.diyaudio.com/store/amplifier-chassis.html
  
 If you don't like to drill holes or don't have the means, you can use Front Panels Express for panel work. They have Mac/PC software to do design. You can also use CAD software if that's your thing.
  
 In general, you'll still need to drill holes on the bottom of the chassis for things like grounding your chassis and making holes for stand-offs.  Your PCBs need to be mounted somewhere. This is probably the hardest part. You'll either want a power drill or a mini drill press for this. Otherwise, you could have a machinist in a local shop do it for you, which will cost you more. You usually would provide some sort of drawing to mark where you want the holes.
  
 Also, take a look at this thread...
  
 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphone-systems/179298-wire-ultra-high-performance-headphone-amplifier-pcbs.html
  
 This is really where you'll get most answers to your general questions about The Wire.


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## brunk

bala said:


> Anything suggestions for the case? This will also be my first build with some "casework" - glad to have some input on any special tools that would be needed! I have the usual wire cutters,strippers,screwdrivers etc.


 
 I went with a Hammond 1590F. Got it for $30 shipped with coupon code "save5"


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## brunk

Well, I just got done ordering all the parts on the BOM and stuff not listed on the BOM. Total shipped for everything, including case and RFI-filtered power module came out to $182 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So "the wire" BAL-BAL can easily be done for under $200 for anyone interested


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## bala

Thanks @Mullet & @brunk. Already found a cheap case on Ebay that should be suitable for my requirement. Dimensions seem to be ok, but I need to double check that! Will also be picking up a Bosch PSB 500 RE for drilling.Haven't proceeded with the BOM order yet, wouldn't be cheap since I would have to add customs & VAT!


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## brunk

bala said:


> Thanks @Mullet & @brunk. Already found a cheap case on Ebay that should be suitable for my requirement. Dimensions seem to be ok, but I need to double check that! Will also be picking up a Bosch PSB 500 RE for drilling.Haven't proceeded with the BOM order yet, wouldn't be cheap since I would have to add customs & VAT!


 
 I was looking into that exact same case. The major problem with it is that it only opens from the front and back....have fun mounting your kit in there! If you bought the PSU board, be sure to use the latest BOM too.


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## Mullet

Looking at the pics on eBay it looks like you can take the top off. I'd say this is a good chassis option for "The Wire".


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## bala

mullet said:


> Looking at the pics on eBay it looks like you can take the top off. I'd say this is a good chassis option for "The Wire".


 

 You are right @Mullet! @brunk This is the same chassis without the power socket and the image shows the it can be opened from the top. BTW, I do have query regarding the Q3 & Q4 (TPS7A3301 Regulators)​ on the PSU BOM - do I have to order that separately from Mouser? I'm going with Digikey for the rest. And thanks for the heads-up on the revised BOM, completely missed that one.


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## brunk

bala said:


> You are right @Mullet! @brunk This is the same chassis without the power socket and the image shows the it can be opened from the top. BTW, I do have query regarding the Q3 & Q4 (TPS7A3301 Regulators)​ on the PSU BOM - do I have to order that separately from Mouser? I'm going with Digikey for the rest. And thanks for the heads-up on the revised BOM, completely missed that one.


 
 Yeah you'll have to order the regs from Mouser or Ti.


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## bala

Thanks Brunk, no way to avoid that additional shipping..and misc. expenses then!


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## brunk

Heads up for you guys that ordered the PSU board. There has been a BOM revision.
  
 From OPC:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I reviewed the BOM and the schematic for the PSU this evening, and found that there was indeed an error in the BOM and schematic with the reference designators for the noise bypass caps, and the output bypass caps.
> 
> ...


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## greyhamster

is there any site sell these as a kit? I'm too lazy to order the parts separately


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## Mullet

Nope. Welcome to the world of DIY! OPC just sells the boards and you have to source the parts from either Mouser or Digikey.


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## bala

brunk said:


> Heads up for you guys that ordered the PSU board. There has been a BOM revision.
> 
> From OPC:


 

 Thanks Brunk. I am yet to order the components, thought will do that after I receive my boards and the christmas rush! Now  happy about my decision


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## brunk

bala said:


> Thanks Brunk. I am yet to order the components, thought will do that after I receive my boards and the christmas rush! Now  happy about my decision


 
 You're welcome! It's too bad DiyAudio has a finite time limit on editing posts, else there would be no confusion since all the updated would be on the first page. I'm still anxiously awaiting the arrival of my boards. I have all the other parts ready to go!


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## brunk

Boards have arrived! Very nice quality.


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## bala

They look gorgeous, still waiting for mine. Looking forward to your build updates on this thread .


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## brunk

Just wanted to give a friendly update that I'll be building and hopefully finishing the BAL-BAL and PSU today 
  
 For those just now reading, the updated PSU BOM and FFT measurement can be found here
  
 I can see myself ordering a few of the PSU boards for various projects, the measurements are quite remarkable!


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## skeptic

I assume OPC was able to get the mods to update the bom linked on page 15/post 144?  I know he referenced a further psu bom update on 11/26, page 22/post 216: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/237152-wire-official-boards-all-projects-available-here-bal-bal-se-se-lpuhp-22.html
  
 Do you know if all the bom links are consistent now brunk?


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## brunk

skeptic said:


> I assume OPC was able to get the mods to update the bom linked on page 15/post 144?  I know he referenced a further psu bom update on 11/26, page 22/post 216: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/237152-wire-official-boards-all-projects-available-here-bal-bal-se-se-lpuhp-22.html
> 
> Do you know if all the bom links are consistent now brunk?


 
 That google doc is the correct PSU BOM, and is better than the PDF since it has optional resistor values for varying voltage. The build wiki and first page is still out of date because I dont think diyaudio has infinite time limit on editing posts for some odd reason.


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## skeptic

Thanks brunk!


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## brunk

skeptic said:


> Thanks brunk!


 
 No problem! If this amp turns out to be a winner, then I'm going to invest in dual mono PSU and order a few extra PSU boards 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I also went with a 15va with secondaries capable of 500ma, same Amveco brand OPC recommends. That way I can run the HE-6 or other hungry cans off it. Heck, I might even implement a funky gain switch lol. Not sure how bad it would affect performance though, as it seems even connectors make a measurable difference.
  
 EDIT: Oh by the way, I am going to bypass the two rear connectors and drill a hole in chassis just underneath where the signal input goes to avoid RFI on the lines, and less crap the signal has to go through


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## Battou62

Oh man, I am going to have to find someone to build me one of these amps.


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## bala

Wishing folks on this thread, a very Happy New Year! I have received my boards as well!
  
 How's your build coming up Brunk?
  
 Btw, would greatly appreciate if you could share your BOM from Digikey or Mouser project manager. I still haven't gotten around to deciding on the additional components required other than the ones in the BOM (this is my first non-kit build). Thanks.


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## brunk

bala said:


> Wishing folks on this thread, a very Happy New Year! I have received my boards as well!
> 
> How's your build coming up Brunk?
> 
> Btw, would greatly appreciate if you could share your BOM from Digikey or Mouser project manager. I still haven't gotten around to deciding on the additional components required other than the ones in the BOM (this is my first non-kit build). Thanks.


 
 Which version are you building? I'd be more than happy to assist you


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## bala

Thanks brunk. I want to start with the BAL-BAL version.Never had a balanced amp before, so really curious!


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## brunk

bala said:


> Thanks brunk. I want to start with the BAL-BAL version.Never had a balanced amp before, so really curious!


 
 Here's some stuff you'll find useful not listed on the BOM from DigiKey

Web ID 50252816  Access ID 66436  

 
get TIM and power entry module (250v rating) from ebay
hot air station and solder paste is really useful if you have some cash to spare
.032 or smaller 63/37 solder, with atleast 2% flux
flux pen
1.6-2mm chisel tip (your workhorse for nearly everything)
24awg wire
glue gun (to mount stuff to chassis etc.)
chassis connectors (XLR)
copper foil for shielding (optional)
a DMM or two
a camera with zoom and flash or a 30x loupe (inspection)
a nice set of sharp, non-magnetic tweezers (not drugstore kind)


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## bala

Thanks again Brunk. Will get back to you if I have any more questions via PM. I assume you have already completed yours, any impressions on the performance & sound? (if possible, pictures please 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





). Cheers.


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## brunk

Here are some pics as requested from a batch of the BAL-BAL and PSU I just finished. These will be for sale for those that want one pre-assembled/can't DIY and put into the chassis shown at the bottom, so if anyone is interested send me a PM!


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## uncola

Great to see some fully assembled The Wire amps for sale.  I wish we could have some commercial builds of it to replace the o2 amp since it seems like this is way better


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## wakibaki

uncola said:


> The Wire...  I wish we could have some commercial builds of it to replace the o2 amp since it seems like this is way better


 
  
 Way better? Probably indistinguishable by ear, this is bulkier and isn't portable. I wouldn't be surprised if it performed better in measured test in some respects, and it _might_ drive some phones the O2 might struggle with, but it's important to understand that the bragging rights are almost certainly all about paper specification, and that the sound will be indistinguishable from numerous other top-quality amps. After all, the whole idea of hi-fi is that the better they get, the more indistinguishable they become, and the O2, on the basis of any available evidence, is _transparent_.
  
 I have loads of amps. More than 10 headphone amps alone, so I'm not in the business of discouraging anyone from getting another one, but I wouldn't recommend that anyone get 'The Wire' on the basis that it will be perceptibly better than an O2. What it does mean though, is that you can congratulate yourself on owning an amplifier with superlative paper performance.
  
 w


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## nikongod

wakibaki said:


> Way better? Probably indistinguishable by ear, this is bulkier and isn't portable. I wouldn't be surprised if it performed better in measured test in some respects, and it _might_ drive some phones the O2 might struggle with, but it's important to understand that the bragging rights are almost certainly all about paper specification, and that the sound will be indistinguishable from numerous other Measurements-first amps.......


 
  
 Fixed it for you.


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## wakibaki

For such small mercies, I still give thanks.
  
 w


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## skeptic

brunk said:


> Here are some pics as requested from a batch of the BAL-BAL and PSU I just finished. These will be for sale for those that want one pre-assembled/can't DIY and put into the chassis shown at the bottom, so if anyone is interested send me a PM! ....


 
  
 Thanks for sharing the pics brunk - those board look great!  My parts, minus the back ordered psu caps, arrived yesterday, and I'm looking forward to trying my hand at the se se build.  If I fail miserably at the smd work, the possibility of ordering from you is an attractive plan b!
  
 Still trying to decide on an appropriate enclosure.  Presently, I'm assuming the prudent choice for me would be something precut since I don't have access to any sort of a shop, and this is my first desktop diy build (aside from two bh kits).  If anyone has any recommendations, I'd be grateful.  Also, any chance any of you could recommend some decent, affordable hookup wire that I can buy in red, white and black?


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## brunk

skeptic said:


> Thanks for sharing the pics brunk - those board look great!  My parts, minus the back ordered psu caps, arrived yesterday, and I'm looking forward to trying my hand at the se se build.  If I fail miserably at the smd work, the possibility of ordering from you is an attractive plan b!
> 
> Still trying to decide on an appropriate enclosure.  Presently, I'm assuming the prudent choice for me would be something precut since I don't have access to any sort of a shop, and this is my first desktop diy build (aside from two bh kits).  If anyone has any recommendations, I'd be grateful.  Also, any chance any of you could recommend some decent, affordable hookup wire that I can buy in red, white and black?


 
 Thanks Skeptic! I put quite a bit of work into them. I still need to clean up the flux a bit, but I literally just finished these last night lol. I piled up on the PSU caps, it was probably me that bought out the remaining stock LMAO 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have 16 left of the 3300uf PSU caps, and 8x of the 330uf poly caps. For chassis drilling, you can get by with a standard drill and some stepper bits like these;
  
 http://www.amazon.com/Titanium-HSS-Steel-Step-Drill/dp/B002LGIF7G
  
 or a router with a blade made to cut metal, but you would need a large bit to drill a hole big enough to fit in the blade, and of course some filing picks are a necessity.
  
 For wire, you can get some from this place on ebay that has great prices. This is only one option, there are many sizes and lengths to choose from.
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/281110899695
  
 Hope that helps, and good luck!


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## skeptic

brunk said:


> ....
> 
> Hope that helps, and good luck!


 
  
 Thanks brunk, much appreciated!  One further question - what did you go with for your IEC / fuse / power switch module?


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## brunk

skeptic said:


> Thanks brunk, much appreciated!  One further question - what did you go with for your IEC / fuse / power switch module?


 
 I went with a 250v rated module with a 200-250ma (can't remember right now) fuse. The switch is built into the module itself and glows red when it's on.


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## StartRockToday

wakibaki said:


> Way better? Probably indistinguishable by ear, this is bulkier and isn't portable. I wouldn't be surprised if it performed better in measured test in some respects, and it _might_ drive some phones the O2 might struggle with, but it's important to understand that the bragging rights are almost certainly all about paper specification, and that the sound will be indistinguishable from numerous other top-quality amps. After all, the whole idea of hi-fi is that the better they get, the more indistinguishable they become, and the O2, on the basis of any available evidence, is _transparent_.
> 
> I have loads of amps. More than 10 headphone amps alone, so I'm not in the business of discouraging anyone from getting another one, but I wouldn't recommend that anyone get 'The Wire' on the basis that it will be perceptibly better than an O2. What it does mean though, is that you can congratulate yourself on owning an amplifier with superlative paper performance.
> 
> w


 
  
 I had thinking like you, but that was before I listened The Wire. I am owner of O2 and I think it is good too suprisely even if compared to more expensive amps.
  
 The Wire is better not by a margin. O2 give more compressed sound, TW have more details and resolusion.
  
 If you guys have o2 and like transparent sound then give The Wire a try.


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## wakibaki

startrocktoday said:


> I had thinking like you, but that was before I listened The Wire. I am owner of O2 and I think it is good too suprisely even if compared to more expensive amps.
> 
> The Wire is better not by a margin. O2 give more compressed sound, TW have more details and resolusion.




Good, you have blind test results to support this?

w


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## StartRockToday

wakibaki said:


> Good, you have blind test results to support this?
> 
> w


 

 No. I haven't. I do not have the right conditions to perform the appropriate test. Sure my opinion is subjective. I am science guy too that is why I tell you to check it for your self.  For a little bigger price than commerce version of O2. There is nothing to talk about, go and check for yourself.  
  
 At the same time, I had the opportunity to compare Hifimediy U2 with ODAC and I can heard the diffrence too.


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## uhhmike

Does anyone know the username of the builder? Or contact info? I know no one has posted on this thread in a long time, just curious. Thanks


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## koifarm

Still enjoying the wire. Now with a tube twist.


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## stixx

> Does anyone know the username of the builder


 
  
 The builder of 'The Wire'? That would be member OPC over at Diyaudio.


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## Detectit

Maybe a stupid question. But where is the volume knob?

Looks like a nice project..


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## Mullet (Jan 30, 2018)

It is a very nice amp. It's very similar in its design ethos to the O2 amp. Vanishingly low harmonic distortion. Effectively a wire with current gain. Unity gain for voltage.

Normally your volume pot would go into where the RGL inputs are on the pictured board. My guess is the inputs are going thru those posts to the left and right of the tube section.

I will be using another Wire amp / PSU in an upcoming All In One project I'm working on. Beagle Bone Black using Volumio as music renderer attached via WiFi or Ethernet -> Acko AKL-S03 isolator/reclocker -> Acko AKD23P (ESS ES9023) DAC -> The Wire -> headphones *or* The Wire -> RCAs to separate amp.

Both of my Wire implementations have a gain of 3 vs. Unity.


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## Detectit (Jan 31, 2018)

Still wonder why this DIY amp does not get much love in the forum.
Maybe because it looks to simple?
Although soldering smd parts looks challenging. 

Balanced a hype or not.
But there are second to none (portable) amps with balanced in and out.

Still wonder why the amplifier market doesn't jump in to this.


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## Mullet

It is simple, yet it requires a minimum of a ±12V power supply to run it properly, which complicates things for a DIY beginner. In some ways the O2 amp is a much easier project to deal with as a beginner. Also it's not sold as a kit or a complete solution. There were/are versions of this amp that were BAL -> BAL or BAL -> SE... the most typical is the SE -> SE.


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## Detectit

Mullet said:


> It is simple, yet it requires a minimum of a ±12V power supply to run it properly, which complicates things for a DIY beginner. In some ways the O2 amp is a much easier project to deal with as a beginner. Also it's not sold as a kit or a complete solution. There were/are versions of this amp that were BAL -> BAL or BAL -> SE... the most typical is the SE -> SE.



I don't see why it is more complicated with 12v power supplies? 

I really like the idea of Bal-Bal.... Put in a 12v battery . Small case and can enjoy everywhere in the house or on the go.


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## Mullet

It has to be a bi-polar supply. OPC makes an accompanying supply that works. No it's not too complicated. Just an extra level of setup/configuration.


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## Detectit

Mullet said:


> It has to be a bi-polar supply. OPC makes an accompanying supply that works. No it's not too complicated. Just an extra level of setup/configuration.


Okay thanks .. That part i have missed

But it would would be possible to make it with a 12v 3500mah battery right
With max current of 2a?


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## Mullet

This is only a guess, but I'd suppose you can use the chu moy power supply to do what you're looking for... not sure values shown in the schematic would be accurate...

http://tangentsoft.net/audio/cmoy/misc/cmoy-tangent-sch.pdf


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