# [REVIEW & MOD] FiiO L6 LOD for Sansa Fuze



## ClieOS

Well, I have had this little LOD for a few weeks now.  I got mine from eBay for about US$20 with worldwide free shipping, which is a pretty good deal.
   





   




  From left: FiiO L6, L3, L1.

 Construction wise, it shares some similarity to the Oyaide HPC-D3.5 iPod LOD I have (= FiiO L3), except the dock itself is slightly bigger since it also needs to house a PCB with two coupling caps and jump the two pins needed to activate the line-out mode on Fuze.

 One of the main difference between a Sansa Fuze line-out compare to other DAP’s line-out is that Sandisk doesn’t implement any coupling caps in the signal path. Output from the Fuze DAC does carry a certain DC voltage (about 1.4v), known as DC offset. While music signal are in AC form, the DC offset can still get amplified and send to the headphone. In minor cases, it just reduces the headphone performance; but in serious cases, the coil in the transducer can get out-of-alignment or even overheated and destroy (balanced armature is especially vulnerable). A coupling cap can filter out DC voltage, so there should be one in each channels. However, coupling caps can also affect sound quality, but we will leave it for later discussion.

 The cable used on L6 is the same as one on L3. It is PCOCC-A cable from Oyaide, thicker than those on L1 but still fairly flexible. End-to-end the LOD is about 16.5mm or 6.5 inches. Overall the build quality is quite decent for its price.

 So some of you might hear that the Fuze’s SQ is actually quite good, which is in fact true. So why use a LOD + amp anyway? The idea has less to do with increasing the driving capability, since there are actually very few really hard-to-drive IEM in the market and Fuze is still capable of giving a very decent performance even when the IEM is a bit demanding. In any case, you can still amp the headphone-out since the signal is pretty clean. However, the actual goal is to squeeze out every single bit of SQ possible, even for the last 5% - to see how good it is going to get. Does it make any financial sense to double or triple the cost of a Fuze just to get the last 5%? Absolutely not, but I don’t get into this hobby so I can make sound financial decision. That being said, if you don’t really have a decent amp or fairly resolving headphone, then perhaps this will serve no more than an interesting read and as any responsible TV show will say: “Don’t try this at home.”
   




  From left: diyLOD with Black Gate, L6, diyLOD with Nichicon ES.

 How does FiiO L6 sound? In sum, “average”. By comparing headphone-out and L6, both feeding 3MOVE, the quality is comparable. Nothing is gained nor lost, at least I can’t tell much difference by A/B’ing them. Even if there is a difference, it is too subtle to say in absolute. I have made a few LOD for Fuze in the past and I know if you choose the wrong coupling caps, the sound can degrade even on the line-out. My personal favorite, the one that sounds best, is Nichicon MUSE, bi-polar ES series. I also tried the infamous Black Gate 22uF Hi-Q – Decent, but don’t find it quite as good as Nichicon on revealing detail, bass punch, or soundstage (not to mention that it is very expensive and hard to find). In fact, I even prefer the lesser sounding Nichicon VS series (also bi-polar) over the Black Gate just because it is a little more dynamic and exciting.
   




   





 So what are the coupling caps in L6? That are SMD tantalum capacitors (10uF if I read it right), the kind that audiophiles want to avoid as much as possible in the signal path. Since L6 isn’t marketed as audiophile LOD (which can cost hundreds for a premier iPod LOD, last I checked) and due to size constrain, I guess it is reasonable to use tantalum caps. However, there are certainly ways to improve the SQ, in theory anyway.

 The idea is to replace the default tantalum caps for something better. If you are willing to drill holes, even Nichicon can be used. Since I already have a few diyLOD for Fuze with caps sticking out on the back, I want to keep the external look as original as possible this time. So my plan is to replace the tantalum caps with niobium-oxide caps (OxiCap by AVX), which as I was told by another member who also experimented with different coupling caps that the niobium-oxide caps are pretty decent. Unfortunately the OxiCap I have (100uF) is too big to fit inside, so instead I have to order a few more that are compatible with the space on the PCB, including 10uF and 47uF variation. To make it more interesting, I also ordered some 0.0068uF WIMA polyester film cap for bypassing the OxiCap. I would love to use bigger capacitance on the WIMA caps but anything bigger will not fit the inside of the dock. This also means using the WIMA alone will not give enough capacitance to lower the corner frequency. Thus the reason to use it for bypassing.

 Well, the new caps have not arrived yet, will update once I finish the experiment.


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## ClieOS

The caps just came in this morning, here is a simple guide on what I have done:
   




  AVX's OxiCap 10uF and 47uF, WIMA 0.068uF film cap.
   
   




  There is a foam pad underneath the PCB. Remove it only if you want to use WIMA cap for bypass.
   
   




  Size wise, 10uF OxiCap is a direct replacement. 47uF OxiCap is fatter, but same length.
   
   




  I choose to use 47uF since I am planning to go all out. Bigger (capacitance) OxiCap won't fit in, so 47uF is the best choice size wise. *NOTE*: Make sure the polarity is correct!
   
   




  Bend the legs of the WIMA caps as shown. Also a good idea to put some masking tape between the PCB and WIMA cap. You don't have to worry about polarity on the WIMA.
   
   




  One side finished.
   
   




  Underneath.
   
   




  Both sides are done.
   
   




  Underneath.
   
   




  Since I choose to use both OxiCap and WIMA, I need to file down some plastic on the inside. If you use 10uF OxiCap, there won't need any mod on the case as long as you solder the cap in right position.
   
   




  Glued back and finished.


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## ClieOS

I did a quick A/B when one side is finished with the OxiCap, then another quick A/B when the WIMA cap is in. Basically, the SQ improvement from tantalum cap to OxiCap is pretty obvious. It becomes less mid focus, better extended to both end, great bass response, more detail and better in soundstage. Adding the WIMA cap improves the top end a little bit, making it more crisp and a little more airy, but nothing major. If you don't feel like adding the WIMA, I think the OxiCap alone should be more than enough.
   
  After the mod is completed, I A/B'ed the new L6 against phone-out and the two diyLOD with Nochicon caps and Black Gate (via 3MOVE + HifiMan RE0 and Radius DDM). Overall the sound signature is closest to Black Gate, but improves upon it. As mentioned before, the new L6 is less mid focus and more extended on both ends compared to the original tantalum caps. Since the tantalum caps sound very close to the phone-out, the finding is also true when compared the new L6 to the phone-out.
   
  Between the two diyLOD, Nichicon is airy, more analytical, dynamic and spacious, while Black Gate is warmer, darker, almost phone-out like but with better extension on both ends and a little more detail. The new L6 is closer to Black Gate as it is also a warm sound. While the treble is a little bit better on the new L6, the major difference between it and the Black Gate is on the bass body and especially on texture. Suddenly I hear bass texture that I have never heard on phone-out, Nichicon or Black Gate. It is like finding new note in the same music I have heard for many times. In that sense the new L6 is definitely more resolving than the other LOD I have. Compared to Nichicon, the new L6 is just a tad more aggressive on the upper mid / lower treble, however the only real downside I can detect is that the soundstage on the new L6 is not quite as wide as the Nichicon. Overall I'll say it is a tie between the two, with Nichicon wins on the treble and soundstage and OxiCap + WIMA win on the mid and bass.
   
  As I have mentioned before, we are talking about the last 5% here, so take everything with a grain of salt.


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## Anaxilus

Bump for being a timely and useful read.


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## Will13

Hmm, might do this to my L6, only problem is I'm having problems finding the caps, do you know any good places to buy them? (that ships to the UK)
   
  Edit: Never mind, found a place online


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## jjmai

Didn't realize L6 existed until I was browsing through Fiio products.
  Bump for ClieOS's (surprising?) tinkering skill - another talent I'd like to improve.


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## High_Q

Why do you have the capacitors in parallel, why do you need the film cap?


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## ClieOS

Quote: 





high_q said:


> Why do you have the capacitors in parallel, why do you need the film cap?


 
  They are in parallel because that is how caps are supposed to connect to each other. For caps, parallel connection increases capacitance while series decreases capacitance - which is opposite for resistor.
   
  There is no actual 'need' for the film caps, per se. Film caps are generally considered to be the best choice for coupling cap because they are more transparent, but they are also much larger in physical size compared to electrolytic cap for the same capacitance. So to use film cap (with enough capacitance) alone while trying to maintains a minimum size is impossible. The theory is to combine film cap and electrolytic cap (OxiCap in this case) to get the best of both worlds. The is no guarantee that such combo will work every time, so part of this thread is about experimenting with these caps. However, even without the Wima, OxiCap alone will provide enough capacitance for the purpose of coupling, so there is no actual need or requirement for the Wima, except trying to improve upon the OxiCap.


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## staatsof

I have been ready quite a few threads on this subject on this and other forums. It looks to me like it is very easy to purchase a low quality LOD cable and this thread helps to avoid this.
   
  I am also interested in finding out if it's possible to add a power input to such a device so that I can use this in my car and power the Sansa Fuze V2 from either a simple 12V adapter plug or via a USB connection which already exists in my car?
   
  I really don't see any of these being available.
   
  Is there a technical reason?
   
  Something like this:
   
http://www.cablejive.com/products/plusUSB-Line-Out-Dock-Cable.html
   
  or this
   
   
http://www.cablejive.com/products/Universal-Dock-Converter.html


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## ClieOS

Quote: 





staatsof said:


> I really don't see any of these being available.
> 
> Is there a technical reason?


 

 It already exists and it is called 'PowerDock for Sansa' from Griffin Technology.
   
  Two problems though - 1) It has been discontinued for a few years now, but sometime it pops up on eBay. 2) It doesn't sound as good as the headphone-out or FiiO L6 because of bad cable and caps used inside the dock. You will need to replace/mod them to get a good sound.
   
  In case you wonder, yes, it is possible to make a LOD with USB port for power and line-out. Just that it requires more pins soldering, which is quite dreadful even on a good day.


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## staatsof

Thanks for replying.  Yes I have read your posts and although I have done "some" fabrication of electronics in my day thius looks so darn small I think I might do very well even trying to add USB to a FiiO6 cable. 
   
  I am ordering one of those today.
   
  I also have ordered the Griffin power dock.  I will have to look for your suggested modifications for that piece.
   
  Have you ever heard of or seen the Sansa Base Station?  Very hard to find now but it is supposed to work with the Fuze but I don't know about V2 which I have. That has a remote as well.
   
  But back to the original idea which is for the car. I just found this FM transmitter unit which also has line-out, line-in and USB ports. I wonder if the lin-out is any good or could be made better?
   
  Have you heard about this one?  It's only $10 now so it's low risk.
   
http://www.dlo.com/files/media/transfer/doc/transdockmicro_sansa_manual_gm4_071015.pdf
   
  The quality may be dubious even if the line-out function does work. I'm not primariuly interested in the FM transmitter feature except for cars with no Aux-in.
   
  Thoughts ?

  
  Quote: 





clieos said:


> It already exists and it is called 'PowerDock for Sansa' from Griffin Technology.
> 
> Two problems though - 1) It has been discontinued for a few years now, but sometime it pops up on eBay. 2) It doesn't sound as good as the headphone-out or FiiO L6 because of bad cable and caps used inside the dock. You will need to replace/mod them to get a good sound.
> 
> In case you wonder, yes, it is possible to make a LOD with USB port for power and line-out. Just that it requires more pins soldering, which is quite dreadful even on a good day.


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## ClieOS

L6 might not have enough pins for your to solder. In that case, you might need the Ridax connector to work with.
   
  I have read about one FM transmitter designed for Sansa but never actually seen any in real life. I don't use my Fuze in car so I am not that much interested in one.


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## staatsof

Thank  you.  Which Ridex connectors on that page would be the most useful. That's assuming I can get a nano-robot to assemble/modify this thing ...


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## ClieOS

Thick/snap (SD_A/E) is easier for assembly. Thin (SD_TS/SS) is better in size but not so much if you want an extra USB in there.


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## High_Q

I really don't like the sound of Fuze, everything sound so muddy to me.  I like Samsung P3, Sflo2, imod. I've tried cowon, but not really satisfied.  Maybe my ears are spoiled, but Fuze I didn't like before I've heard quality sources. * *You guys believe this type of LOD will improve the quality significantly?  Lets hope bypassing the amp will help increase its sound quality.


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## ClieOS

The LOD does open up the sound, but it will take a good amp to take it to the next level and as I have somewhat mentioned in the first post - it is not going to transform Fuze into something it is not. If you never like the warm sound of Fuze to begin with, then you would probably be better off with something you do like.


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## islubio

Hi cliesos may i know where did u order the oxicaps from ?


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## ClieOS

Quote: 





islubio said:


> Hi cliesos may i know where did u order the oxicaps from ?


 

Element 14, which also known more widely as Farnell (or Newark in the U.S.). I pretty sure Mouser also stocks them as well.


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## islubio

are these the ones?
http://sg.element14.com/avx/nojc476m010rwj/capacitor-niobium-oxide-47uf-10v/dp/1432282


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## ClieOS

I used the 6.3V version, the 10V version is too big to fit inside.. Note that the 47uF / 6.3V is still a little bigger so you will need to file down the inside of the plastic case so you can glue it back tightly.


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## islubio

ok thks
  seems like they don have 6.3v now. will check with local shop see if they carry too


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## steelglam

So, after reading tons of stuff on here and on other sites, I'm still a bit confused.
   
  Does the stock (i.e., non-modded) FIIO L6 provide a true line out for the Sansa Fuze? 
   
  I ask for the following reason: I want to run the Fuze into the AUX (or CD) line-in inputs on the rear of my Apt/Holman preamp to play it through my home audio system. 
   
  I've tried doing this through the Fuze's headphone jack (using a cable that consists of a 3.5 mm plug out from the Fuze's headphone jack on one end and red/white RCA plugs into the preamp on the other end).  And although I get a signal, the sound quality is poor coming from the Fuze using this method.  And that is regardless of the volume setting on the Fuze (i.e., even with the volume all the way up on the Fuze, the quality of the signal/sound is still poor).   It's not an issue with the preamp because anything else I hook into the AUX or CD inputs on the preamp--CD player, tape player, tuner--sound fine.
   
  Any insight you can provide would be great.    Thanks!


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## ClieOS

It is true line-out, regardless of L6 having mod'ed or not. Fuze headphone-out doesn't really distort much regardless of volume, so you should in theory get as good a sound as using a headphone, unless you also find that your headphone sounds terrible.


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## steelglam

Thanks, ClieOS.
   
  No, my headphones don't distort at all. They sound great, in fact.
   
  But the Fuze hooked into my preamp via the 3.5mm-to-RCA cable sounds poor.  Distorts a bit and sounds "thin" or "weak" for lack of better terms.  Even with the volume on the Fuze all the way up.  Like if I play a track from the Fuze and then play the same track from a CD, using the same inputs on the preamp, it's like night and day in terms of sound quality.  And this is also the case regardless if the track on the Fuze is a FLAC file or something of lower quality like an MP3.
   
  Is there a better connector cable that I should be looking into to go from the Fuze headphone jack to my Apt/Holman preamp?  I know putting a separate headphone amp between the Fuze and the preamp will degrade the sound even more, so that's not an option.
   
  Also, with the L6 connected, it bypasses the Fuze's internal amp completely?


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## fomoz

i think the fuze sounds pretty good from the headphone out, as long as you keep the EQ off. i also connect it to my deck in my car (volume on fuze always set to the max) and luckily my deck has a "Source Level Adjuster" in addition to the volume adjustment, which i also set to max gain.

is a LOD something i should consider before ordering a Graham Slee Voyager to drive my Westone 4?


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## steelglam

Oh yes, I always keep the EQ off.  Even when I use my headphones.
   
  And under "Settings," I have volume set to "High."
   
  I also don't use Replay Gain.
  
  Quote: 





fomoz said:


> i think the fuze sounds pretty good from the headphone out, as long as you keep the EQ off. is a LOD something i should consider before ordering a Graham Slee Voyager to drive my Westone 4?


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## ClieOS

Quote: 





steelglam said:


> Thanks, ClieOS.
> 
> No, my headphones don't distort at all. They sound great, in fact.
> 
> ...


 
  Some of the possibility include that the Fuze is overdriving the pre-amp, it is unlikely but not impossible. Try instead lowering the volume on Fuze and see if it helps.
   
  The truth is more complicated, but in simple term the L6 does bypass the headphone amp section.
  
   
  Quote: 





fomoz said:


> i think the fuze sounds pretty good from the headphone out, as long as you keep the EQ off. is a LOD something i should consider before ordering a Graham Slee Voyager to drive my Westone 4?


 
  I think it is worth investing a decent LOD if you already spent that much money on a good amp.


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## fomoz

steelglam said:


> Thanks, ClieOS.
> 
> No, my headphones don't distort at all. They sound great, in fact.
> 
> ...




i think it sounds thin/weak only if you don't max out the volume on the fuze. which firmware do you have? at some point they included a new "feature" which reduced the volume of the fuze. then they enabled an option to set it back to what it was before. with the latest firmware, this is located in Settings -> System Settings -> Volume, make sure you set this to High!


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## fomoz

clieos said:


> Some of the possibility include that the Fuze is overdriving the pre-amp, it is unlikely but not impossible. Try instead lowering the volume on Fuze and see if it helps.
> 
> The truth is more complicated, but in simple term the L6 does bypass the headphone amp section.
> 
> ...



which ready-to-use LOD would you recommend? i don't have the skill/equipment to solder it myself


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## ClieOS

There are a few custom made Sansa LOD on teh eBay, but I have no idea how they sound.


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## fomoz

clieos said:


> There are a few custom made Sansa LOD on teh eBay, but I have no idea how they sound.




would you make me one like yours? how much would you charge me for it, including the L6?


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## fomoz

steelglam said:


> Oh yes, I always keep the EQ off.  Even when I use my headphones.
> 
> And under "Settings," I have volume set to "High."
> 
> I also don't use Replay Gain.




oh well, i guess this shows that it's a $90 MP3 player. i think for what it is, it's the best $90 i've spent on portable audio gear


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## fomoz

ClieOS, any opinions about these two?

http://cgi.ebay.com/SANSA-FUZE-LINE-OUT-DOCK-LOD-HEADPHONE-AMPLIFIER-/250715651265?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item3a5fd13cc1#ht_1286wt_1163

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sansa-Fuze-MP3-Line-Out-Dock-LOD-Cable-7N-Silver-Plated-/280651629771?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item41582404cb#ht_4335wt_1163


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## ClieOS

They don't listed any thing about the caps they used, so it is hard to judge how good they are, or not.
  Quote: 





fomoz said:


> ClieOS, any opinions about these two?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/SANSA-FUZE-LINE-OUT-DOCK-LOD-HEADPHONE-AMPLIFIER-/250715651265?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item3a5fd13cc1#ht_1286wt_1163
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Sansa-Fuze-MP3-Line-Out-Dock-LOD-Cable-7N-Silver-Plated-/280651629771?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item41582404cb#ht_4335wt_1163


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## fomoz

clieos said:


> They don't listed any thing about the caps they used, so it is hard to judge how good they are, or not.




here's the seller's answer:



			
				compicatx said:
			
		

> I use Elna Silmic Audio II caps (22uf 16v) in this cable. I ll send you a open lod picture, thank you. If you like i can upgrade yours to Blackgate Caps which i have few.


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## ClieOS

Elna is generally considered to be good cap for couping purpose. Don't get the BlackGate though, it is not worth the money.


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## fomoz

clieos said:


> Elna is generally considered to be good cap for couping purpose. Don't get the BlackGate though, it is not worth the money.




meaning i should accept only if it's a free upgrade, right?


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## DaBomb77766

Hey, have you tried A/Bing the L1 and L3 cables?  Do they really sound much different?


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## ClieOS

Quote: 





fomoz said:


> meaning i should accept only if it's a free upgrade, right?


 

 A pair of BlackGate can cost 1/3 of the LOD (if not a lot more), I doubt it will be for free. Even if it is free, I personally won't want to use BlackGate as it sounds way too dark for me.
   


  Quote: 





dabomb77766 said:


> Hey, have you tried A/Bing the L1 and L3 cables?  Do they really sound much different?


 

 They sounds the SAME.


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## fomoz

clieos said:


> A pair of BlackGate can cost 1/3 of the LOD (if not a lot more), I doubt it will be for free. Even if it is free, I personally won't want to use BlackGate as it sounds way too dark for me.



he said it's free of charge. i like a darker sound, so can't wait to hear this, looks like it's gonna be a quality product  will post pics and review once i get it plus my new amp


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## ClieOS

Good luck then.


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## fomoz

clieos said:


> Good luck then.




lol actually you made me go and read some reviews, i flip flopped again and decided to go with Elna... hahaha oh well we'll see how this goes!


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## Egioras

I've read all the topic and discussion here and I am quite excited to try Sansa Fuze + with LOD and connect it to Sunrise Xcape IEM and Fiio E7 amp 
   
  However, I am not sure about one thing: Are we talking about only <5% difference between these 2 products?:
   
  1. Simple L6 from amazon ~7£ http://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-Line-Cable-Sandisk-Player/dp/B004M172KO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1304956168&sr=1-1
   
  2. Superior L6 modded from ebay ~25£ http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SANSA-FUZE-LINE-OUT-DOCK-LOD-HEADPHONE-AMPLIFIER-/250715651265?pt=Other_MP3_Player_Accessories&hash=item3a5fd13cc1#ht_1286wt_1163&afsrc=1
   
  Is it worth to pay 17£ more for a piece of cable? I would like to try do a mod myself, but I have never done anything like this. Can you please make a short list what items you used for a modification and what tools do you need to have? Thanks in advance  Nice job by the way


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## fomoz

egioras said:


> I've read all the topic and discussion here and I am quite excited to try Sansa Fuze + with LOD and connect it to Sunrise Xcape IEM and Fiio E7 amp
> 
> However, I am not sure about one thing: Are we talking about only <5% difference between these 2 products?:
> 
> ...




i bought the one in #2. it's not just a piece of cable, the second one uses Elna Silmic Audio II caps, which are better than the cheap caps in the first one. i haven't received mine yet, but i think that if ur getting a LOD, might as well get the good one.


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## ClieOS

If you never solder anything before, this might not be an easy project to do. Once you put in the cost of a soldering iron and all the little things you need to do the mod, it might cost you more then the price of that eBay LOD.


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## Egioras

Quote: 





clieos said:


> If you never solder anything before, this might not be an easy project to do. Once you put in the cost of a soldering iron and all the little things you need to do the mod, it might cost you more then the price of that eBay LOD.


 
   
  That's what I was doubting about - is it worth buying the whole equipment for just one project... I can do soldering, the problem is not there, it's just I never done very precise soldering with microchips and things, that you have to take additional care 
   
  Thanks for the advice guys, I might get the Sansa and a decent LOD soon


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## DaBomb77766

It's not worth buying the equipment just for one project never to be used again, but it would be worth it if you wanted to use it for different things too.  But the worth of something is entirely up to whoever is buying it, in the end.


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## psgarcha92

Hey ClieOS,
i posted some questions on the diyAudio forum about input caps.and, the guys over there are very much against the use of electrolytic caps in the signal path. One of the replies i got, said "even the best electrolytic caps lyk BG, nichicon, would sound worse than film caps".such strong opposition, i can't link the thread coz am using my cell right now. But if u want to check, my thread was named Cmoy Caps, my name is noobman92 over there.


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## ClieOS

Quote: 





psgarcha92 said:


> Hey ClieOS,
> i posted some questions on the diyAudio forum about input caps.and, the guys over there are very much against the use of electrolytic caps in the signal path. One of the replies i got, said "even the best electrolytic caps lyk BG, nichicon, would sound worse than film caps".such strong opposition, i can't link the thread coz am using my cell right now. But if u want to check, my thread was named Cmoy Caps, my name is noobman92 over there.


 

 Their advise seem pretty solid to me. Electrolytic caps is used mainly because they have relatively small size for a large capacitance. But they are not quite as transparent as film caps. Some prefer electrolytic caps because they bring a certain flavour / coloration to the sound and can be regarded as beneficial on a personal level. Ultimately however, film cap is the choice if space is not a problem and transparency is demanded. If you are building a cmoy, then you should choose film cap. But when it comes to coupling caps that need to fit into very tight space, a decent sounding electrolytic probably is the better compromise. Or you can do what I did in the L6, uses electrolytic caps of the right capacitance then bypass it with a small firm cap. It supposedly combines the pro of both.


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## psgarcha92

But, 1uf wima film caps, won't they cut it right in the LOD here?


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## ClieOS

Where do you want to use the 1uF firm cap? cmoy or LOD?


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## psgarcha92

LOD. Would it be small enough? I would be purchasing the LOD in a few days and am planning to replace the caps in it.


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## ClieOS

1uF flim cap (assuming it is a Wima) is huge. You will need to place it outside of the LOD housing in order to use it.
   
  Here is size reference: The one I used in my L6 is the red Wima (0.068uF), which is used to bypass a 47uF OxiCap (read the first post of this thread). A 1uF Wima will be the same size as the grey color cap.


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## psgarcha92

And what value of the film caps should be ideal/ok for the LOD to work properly?


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## islubio

Anyone tried shortening the cable??
  The L6 cables seems too long for me to stack the fuze on top of the e11.
  Clieos how do u place your fuze n e11 for portable/pocket use?


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## fomoz

FWIW here's how my portable setup looks with the AudioMinor LOD (5" total length)


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## islubio

Clieos how do u even manage to open the lod?!?!
  Just finally bought the caps but i cant seems to get the lod open. 
  Is the lod glued?


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## ClieOS

The LOD is glued on 4 small spots: 2 on the side of the connector and 2 on the side of the strain relief. A little prying on the side should crack it open easily. You will need to glue it back though, once you finished the mod.


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## islubio

Tried it but failed badly. Almost destroyed the LOD n have thus glue it back without making any mod.
  Guess maybe i'll get another l6 to try or order some ridax.


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## ClieOS

Ridax is even harder to solder since it is all tiny pins inside.


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## islubio

I think i should be fine soldering the pin. Did a few with ridax like connect for ipods.
  If only i can open my L6 easily without killing it.


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## Huxley

Which hichicon es caps did you use, im thinking of tweaking my lod.
   
  http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/-c-61_68_322_363.html


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## ClieOS

huxley said:


> Which hichicon es caps did you use, im thinking of tweaking my lod.
> 
> http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/-c-61_68_322_363.html



I am using 100uF 6.3V. You can use 47uF as well if you want to, but don't go too small.


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## Fortgammon

I accidentally ripped out the ground contact of my L6 while trying to recable it, I compensated by soldering the ground wire directly to the ground pin on the circuit broad, it works well but I have any nod on my head on whether I'm sacrificing something... none of the caps connected to the ground contact did it? cause i have some of those OXIcaps coming in and i would like to know.


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## BrainFood

Quote: 





fomoz said:


> ClieOS, any opinions about these two?





> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261000087559?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1857wt_988





>





> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270994571040?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3643wt_902


 
   
  Quote: 





fomoz said:


> lol actually you made me go and read some reviews, i flip flopped again and decided to go with Elna... hahaha oh well we'll see how this goes!


 
   
   
  Old thread bump, if anyone is still around.
   
  Just wondering how you got on with that LOD from ebay? They are quite a premium over the standard fiiO L6, which are £6 shipped on ebay.
   
  Was it the one from Turkey or Hong Kong?


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## lawrywild

Did the full mod with 47uF oxicap and the WIMA caps. Shortened the cable too. Leaked super glue everywhere when closing up the housing so it looks kinda ugly now but at least it works and sounds good lol. Sounds REALLY good.
   
   





   
   
  I should also mention that this was my 2nd attempt, I lost a solder pad on the first one, the PCB is really crappy. Also both came with Niobium caps already, only 4.7uF though.


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## ClieOS

lawrywild said:


> I should also mention that this was my 2nd attempt, I lost a solder pad on the first one, the PCB is really crappy.* Also both came with Niobium caps already, only 4.7uF though.*




Good to know FiiO at least has improved the L6.


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