# Toshiba 3950 power supply mods (with pics)



## rsaavedra

Today I got the capacitors I had ordered from Digikey to do the Vinnie Rossi power supply mods for the Toshiba.

 Take into account, I'm basically a real newbie as far as DIY electronics is concerned. Had done a bit of soldering about a decado ago, and only today I tried again. First I had to go and purchase a few set of basic tools as listed in the starters kit in one of Head-fi's DIY forum stickies, which included basic soldering iron and stand, solder, desoldering braid, and desoldering pump. Decided to also get an Anti-static service kit from Radio-shack. Couldn't find the clip-on magnifiers recommended by morsel, so at least to have something, just bought a normal large magnifier in Eckerds ($5). Multimeter, cable cutters, and pliers I already had.

 Setting up the anti-static mat properly and testing it, then disconnecting the player, opening the case, removing the power supply board, then getting everything soldering-related ready for desoldering the first capacitor, took me more than an hour for sure. At that point, I took this "before" picture.







 The desoldering of that very first capacitor (brown, largest one), and then soldering the replacement, was a roller coaster thrill ride for me. Every second I was fearing either burning something or getting the capacitor blown in my face because of excessive heat. Needless to say, I was also wearing protection glasses over my prescription glasses, just in case.

 After a couple of hours (yes I was that slow 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) it took me to do these replacements of a few capacitors, I took these "after" pics.












 Reinstalled the power supply board in the player, reattached the cover of the chasis, and then tried it, with sufficient precautions in case something was going to smoke. I used a line filter switched off, plugged the power cord, stood a few feet away, and then turned on the line filter... nothing smoking!!! Then I pressed the power button in the player, and it worked!!! 

 In all honesty, I only dared to do this on this Toshiba because the player is so inexpensive, so burning anything with this DIY attempt wouldn't be too much of a loss. Fortunately, it worked fine. Wow I really enjoyed this afternoon you have no idea. This is certainly a new hobbie I've found.

 These mods I made are actually incomplete. Only today when going over the Vinnie Rossi intructions for these power supply mods I realized I should have ordered 2 capacitors of a specific kind (Panasonic X2-rated 0.47 microfarads), and I had ordered only one. Didn't want to install the only one I got, since these two capacitors are supposed to go in paralell with two stock capacitors (the blue rectangular ones) for better mains filtering. I chose to postpone that part until I have the other one and can install both at once.

 The player is going through continuous play after the mods, for about an hour now. Will leave it like that a couple of days. Can's say much about sound differences, at least not yet, but I can say I'm just so proud and happy that the thing is working 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	
















 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## dip16amp

Nice work and pictures. I need to mod mine and now this makes me want to do it.


----------



## tortie

Nice work 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was wondering how much all your capacitors cost? Including the missing .47uF cap. Can't wait for your comparisons between your unmodded & modded player after you have burned-in your player well.


----------



## rsaavedra

The missing one costs $2.35
 The six capacitors I replaced cost all together $9.87.

 My Digikey order was a total of $24.46. That includes $5 of handling charges, also the $4.26 opamp (OPA2604), and $2.96 for 12 other little capacitors for the audio board section of Vinnie Rossi's mods. I now think I won't do the opamp replacement part, but will try the Swenson mod instead.


----------



## Voodoochile

I think you are hooked in a big way already. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Nice job, and thanks for the pics!


----------



## agile_one

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedr* 
_The player is going through continuous play after the mods, for about an hour now. Will leave it like that a couple of days. Can's say much about sound differences, at least not yet, but I can say I'm just so proud and happy that the thing is working 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	














_

 

Raul - congrats on some terrific work! Really great pics and words to describe the process, too. I think you are on your way to diy.

 Now, how about building a weebl for me


----------



## rsaavedra

Thanks all for the comments.

 Gene at this point of my skill I can certainly tackle the weebl challenge, it might only take me a few trials, and probably a couple hundred years


----------



## ITZBITZ

I did these mods as well, including the X2 caps.

 I also did all the digital board upgrades as well, including replacing the op-amp with an OPA2604. It really fixed the weak bass of the player and brought the midrange into that sweet Burr-Brown sound.

 And like you said, you blow it up and you're out what, $50?


----------



## itza2mer

Which version of the OPA2604 do you use (there's 3 of them)?


----------



## rsaavedra

Vinnie Rossi himself lists the Digi-key part number in his pages, its OPA2604AU-ND (8 SOIC packaging):
http://home.nc.rr.com/keihin/toshiba3950/vinniemods.htm

 Xtreme4099 recommends the AD8620 instead, it seems to be a better opamp than the 2604:
http://www4.head-fi.org/forums/showt...3&page=6&pp=15

 I'm still undecided between Swenson mod or opamp replacement.


----------



## itza2mer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedr* 
_Vinnie Rossi himself lists the Digi-key part number in his pages, its OPA2604AU-ND (8 SOIC packaging):
http://home.nc.rr.com/keihin/toshiba3950/vinniemods.htm

 Xtreme4099 recommends the AD8620 instead, it seems to be a better opamp than the 2604:
http://www4.head-fi.org/forums/showt...3&page=6&pp=15_

 

Thank You very much!


----------



## ITZBITZ

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedr* 
_Xtreme4099 recommends the AD8620 instead, it seems to be a better opamp than the 2604:

 I'm still undecided between Swenson mod or opamp replacement._

 

It's subjective, AD and BB parts sound different. I prefer the BB sound myself so I stuck with the BB chips. I've used AD8610/20 in various items and found it overly analytical in the higher frequencies and the soundstage separation didn't seem to satisfy me. I may have to get a BrownDog and put 2x OPA627 in that slot to see how that works compared to the OPA2604 next.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ITZBITZ* 
_I've used AD8610/20 in various items and found it overly analytical in the higher frequencies and the soundstage separation didn't seem to satisfy me._

 

Ah, good reason to stick with the 2604 maybe. Burr Brown's have the rep of being smooth, never overanalytical, which is a good thing I think.

 What do you think about the Swenson mod Itzbitz? I guess you preferred the Vinnie Rossi for some reason, and that's why you did that one. Wonder if you have thoughts against the Swenson mod. What I like about it is that it's much easier to do than the opamp replacement.


----------



## ITZBITZ

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedr* 
_What do you think about the Swenson mod Itzbitz? I guess you preferred the Vinnie Rossi for some reason, and that's why you did that one. Wonder if you have thoughts against the Swenson mod. What I like about it is that it's much easier to do than the opamp replacement._

 

I tend to prefer the accurate, low-distortion active electronics approach to the simple output capacitors with no feedback approach. I guess it's just a matter of school of though. I also don't feel the output from DAC chips was designed nor intended to go into the kind of load presented by the Swenson mod. It also results in a lower output voltage, which means more gain on the amplifier. Consider the Sonica, which has the output directly connected without an active filter network and the output voltage is pretty low compared to a standard 2V output.


----------



## rsaavedra

Thanks a lot Itzbitz, that now makes me lean towards the opamp replacement.

 I got the capacitor today, so I'm about to try finishing the power supply mods tonight. Here's a couple shots of my "shop" ready, another hour getting all of this ready:












 Today I got tip tinner and solder flux from Radio shack (didn't use these the first part of my mods). Wish me luck. Pensacola is right now under a tornado watch. Unless with the storm I get some lightning, I might post some more as it goes. If I don't post for a few days you know what happened. So live from Pensacola, It's stormy DIY Thursday night!!!

 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## rsaavedra

Mod successful!! Finished adding the final 2 capacitors on the power supply. This makes that area look quite crowded, those rectangular caps are quite big for the area. It was pretty tough to push the legs of those together with the legs of the little blue rectangles. I had to dremel down all those legs a bit to reduce their diameters, so that they could fit in together.

 Soldered, and just closed the case, plugged it in with safety precautions again, and everything is working fine!






 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## rsaavedra

What a geek, 4:45am, just finished the first part of the audio PCB mods, couldn't resist continuing on this after the PS mods were all done and working fine, and having everything setup for the work.

 This part of the Audio PCB consists of the replacement of 11 small capacitors. The final part of the mod, replacing five capacitors with Blackgate caps, and replacing the opamp, I can't do because the Blackgates are back ordered for one more week or so. I have the opamp, but don't want to replace it without the blackgates at the same time as recommended by Rossi.

 Here's the audio board before the mods, check out the clock dampening with some plaster stuff, a la blue tack, but white.





 After the mods bottom:





 After the mods top (having clipped the caps' legs) :





 Reconnected, and it's playing fine!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	













 Leaving it playing to break it in. Now I'll go to sleep at least 3 hours before tomorrow's (today's) work.
 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## ITZBITZ

Excellent shots of the work required. Glad to hear you're having a good time!


----------



## rsaavedra

Thanks Itzbitz! One question, I wonder if you might have any recommendations on the opamp replacement? I have links to instructions on SMD work, but maybe you have some tips to share. For instance, did you desolder *all* those caps around the opamp before doing that part, or just on one/two sides?


----------



## ITZBITZ

I removed the ones on the sides to give myself some room.

 I then used solder wick to get up as much solder as I could, trying not to get the op-amp too hot, but since it's a $0.40 JRC, if I smoked it I didn't care. Then I used some special pliers to apply slight pressure on the pins and just round-robin heated them until they all let go of the board (without ripping up the SMD pads, which is a real risk with too much heat and pressure).

 I then cleaned up the pads with a quick tap of the iron, brushed over the area with a flux pen allowing the flux to help hold the new op amp in place (along with some tweezers) and tacked down the first pin. Then it was just a quick tap on each leg with a 1/32" tip to make the connection using just a tiny dot of solder on the iron tip. The flux really helps it flow into the cracks.


----------



## rsaavedra

Thanks very much Itzbitz, that 1/32" tip you mention is a cone shaped one? or is there any flat ending on the very tip? Mine is a normal soldering iron, not the gun type but the rod type, and it has a cone for a tip. Probably that cone is too large, should get a smaller one certainly, but not sure what shape.


----------



## gsferrari

Raul,

 I just received the 3960 and I am also getting into the diy scene now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Check your PM...

 Cheers!


----------



## rsaavedra

Guru you have a PM as well. Here for anyone else interested, the tools I got were part of the "Starters Kit" set of tools recommended in the first of the following links. These links are mighty useful in general, they've helped me a lot to get started:

http://tangentsoft.net/audio/new-diyer.html

http://tangentsoft.net/audio/

http://www5.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21563

 I already had some of the tools, went to Radio Shack with the "Starters kit" list to get the ones I didn't have and couldn't do without. A few of those tools listed in the starters kit are actually discontinued though.

 Here's one link I'm carefully reading, I'm going to put together that recommended "Hot air" desoldering gun to attempt the opamp removal:
http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.p...ntDeviceRework

 Cheers,
 Raul


----------



## ServinginEcuador

Great job Raul. I'm glad to see you got up the nerve to experiment some with the soldering iron. The more you do this the more competent and confident you'll get. Later on you'll start replacing cheap caps in other power supplies in your amps and other sources. Congrats and great job.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ServinginEcuador* 
_Later on you'll start replacing cheap caps in other power supplies in your amps and other sources. Congrats and great job._

 

Yes that's the idea at least. Thanks very much Doug!
 Cheers,

 Raul


----------



## ServinginEcuador

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedr* 
_Yes that's the idea at least. Thanks very much Doug!
 Cheers,

 Raul_

 

I figured the practice on a sub-$100 CDP would make for fertile practice grounds. If I had any soldering skills, and I don't, I would be trying my hand at modding the Toshiba with some decent caps in the PSU. It's cheap, and if it helps it would be well worth it.


----------



## rsaavedra

Just got an email from partsconnexion, my Black Gates were shipped today from Canada! Will be able to continue and finish the audio board mods soon.


----------



## itza2mer

I won a 3950 on ebay for $23.00 (the sell had 0 feedback). Lucky for me, he only lived 15 miles from me, so I didn't have to pay the $15 shipping he wanted. I went ahead and gave the seller $27, and explained that the bidding stayed low because of the lack of ebay feedback. I'm looking forward to modding this player in a couple of weeks. 

 rsaavedr, thanks for all of the photos. Very helpful.


----------



## ServinginEcuador

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedr* 
_Just got an email from partsconnexion, my Black Gates were shipped today from Canada! Will be able to continue and finish the audio board mods soon._

 

Raul,

 Male sure to add some nice before and after shots to tantalize us once again. Best of all with the new mods attempts with the BG caps. Maybe you should try and find a cheap unit identical to this one and do some A/B comparisons with the two of them. It would be cheap enough as the Toshibas run under $50 or so now.


----------



## rsaavedra

Certainly Doug. About comparing to a stock, at the upcoming FL meet I'll have a chance to compare with Guru's unmodded 3960, well unless he mods it before that though. I could certainly buy another 3950 for comparisons and then return it before the 30 day trial period. But the local best buy ran out of 3950's. Anyway, I am actually more curious to compare this modded Toshiba with other players and brands, actually mid-end and higher end players, and see what differences I can perceive.

 Itza2mer you got a great deal, have fun with the mods!!!


----------



## meat01

double post disregard


----------



## meat01

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedr* 
_ Anyway, I am actually more curious to compare this modded Toshiba with other players and brands, actually mid-end and higher end players, and see what differences I can perceive.
_

 

 Do a blind test against a Meridian or other high end player and see if the Meridian owners can tell which one is which


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meat01* 
_Do a blind test against a Meridian or other high end player and see if the Meridian owners can tell which one is which 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Man expecting it to match a Meridian is probably just a bit over-optimistic an expectation


----------



## rsaavedra

Blackgates arrived today!!, tomorrow will be another DIY fun ride finishing the audio PCB mods. I will post "Before", and hopefully successful "After" pics of the dreadful opamp replacement. Wish me luck!


----------



## Iron_Dreamer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedr* 
_Blackgates arrived today!!, tomorrow will be another DIY fun ride finishing the audio PCB mods. I will post "Before", and hopefully successful "After" pics of the dreadful opamp replacement. Wish me luck!_

 

Have fun! Hoepfully you can extract some inspiration from my Godzilla mods to the EMU!


----------



## rsaavedra

Stock Opamp is out!!! I did it! I did it! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Darn little thing was fighting hard to remain there, what a grip. After lots of heating and wickering, then a final soft twisting with pliers left it loose. Here some pics. 

 After removing six caps surrounding the opamp. I should have put a ruler nearby for scale, take into account each side of that little square of an omamp is just 3/16 of an inch long. On my laptop screen, this picture seems to show about 2x the real scale. Check out how close some other SMD super-tiny components are to the opamp legs. Heating there is quite risky because some of those tiny satellites could have gone loose.





 After grip of the opamp had been defeated:







 And now to place the new opamp over there, and then the black gates...
 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## rsaavedra

Mods completed successfully!!!! The new Burr Brown op-amp, and the little Black Gate capacitors already going through break-in. To me sounds better already, without break-in. Sounds as smooth as before, but somewhat "richer", and bass/sound seems a bit fuller. But I would need another same player with the previous version of the mods for A/B comparisons, or a stock, otherwise, placebo nonwithstanding. Anyway, sounds very nice. Here some pics of the final stage of the saga:

 The tiny Black Gates caps, and the Burrbrown opamp next to the tip of the ruler. Check how tiny. To the top right is the older opamp upside down (still knocked out from the fight 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




):






 Here's the Burrbrown OPA2604AU-ND in place. Soldering the tiny legs ended up (for me) easier than desoldering and removing the stock opamp. First I fixed the opamp to the board with a tiny glob of "white tack", then it was a matter of touching the legs with the soldering iron tip having on the tip a tiny bit of solder already:






 Here's a view after soldering the blackgates and the other caps I had removed for easier access to the opamp:






 Here's a top view:






 I'd like to say thank you to Vinnie Rossie for publicly sharing the specs of his mods, and to all Headfier's who helped me with feedback for putting together my beginners DIY kit, and with procedural suggestions. This was really a ton of fun!!!! Thanks!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	














 Second project: a Kevin Gilmore's Dynahi this Summer!
 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## rsaavedra

After 48 hours of continuous break-in, the player is pouring a fantastic sound. Before elaborating on my own impressions, I'd like to take the liberty to quote here Vinnie Rossi's own comments on the sound of the Toshiba 3950 after his mods:

 From http://home.nc.rr.com/keihin/toshiba3950/vinniemods.htm
  Quote:


 The bass is very tight, fast, and clean. Compared to the stock bass, there is some more of it (just the right amount IMHO) and the quality of it has improved a lot.

 The highs are now very liquid, detailed, and a pleasure to listen to. There is absolutely NO LISTENER FATIGUE to report here folks, I'm talking about beautiful treble that is very similar to the ack!dack's. It is not rolled off in any way in my system, and it is a joy to listen to! Much improved over the stock treble (changing to the black gates and removing that crappy JRC dual-opamp and putting in the Burr Brown OPA2604 really did the trick!) As mentioned before by Jon Risch, the OPA2604 is a perfect balance between the tube and solid state sound. I agree 100% on this one.

 Soundstaging and depth reproduction are superb to me as well. The whole soundstage is push back a bit more than stock (which is what I wanted BTW), and the overall sound is quite 3D. The congestion during complex passages that I noticed with the stock unit is all gone. I think the combination of using lower ESR caps, and using the Black gates and Burr Brown Opamp fixed this problem the most. 
 


 Three friends were visiting just now, and we were listening to the modded Toshiba with my speaker rig, playing Audioslave, Rage Against the Machine, Madonna, and some Venezuelan guitar music by John Williams. To my friends the modded Toshiba has bass almost identical to my Sacdmodded Sony NS500V (playing cd's), which wasn't the case for them with the pre-modded Toshiba -they had also come by to compare these players before my finishing the audio mods. I differed on that assessment with respect to bass. Overall the two players sound quite similar in the lows, fast, punchy, and strong, with authoritative slam (the Azur 640C had even more slam than the Sacdmodded Sony, but not too much more either). To me the Sony has a very tiny bit slammier bass than the modded Toshiba in the very lowest frequencies. This is not apparent always of course, depends on whether the song being played goes low enough to expose that small difference. For instance, Madonna's Die another Day is one in which I could perceive this difference. Incidentally, that's one of my bass testing tracks. Sitting at the sweet spot (what my speaker rig is calibrated for) is where I could tell the difference better; standing by and a few feet off, then I couldn't. The "thumps" in Madonna's "Thump-clap-thump-thump-clap" seemed to be a bit bigger/heavier coming from the Sony, as if a slightly heavier giant had taken a mighty step. With the Toshiba it was also a mighty giant taking the step, but probably a few pounds less heavy of a giant. Something along those lines. Don't get the impression the modded Toshiba is at all lean on the bass. Even stock it was stronger than the stock Sony, and these mods made it even stronger. It is powerful and rich and with SLAM.

 Speaking of richness, in the upper bass/midrange region, the Toshiba sounds a bit richer and fuller, while the Sony sounds somewhat drier to me. My friends looked at each other with no comment when I made that assessment. I haven't heard the Ack! Dack, but wonder if that richness/smoothness in the Toshiba is among the things Vinnie found particularly alike in them. With respect to treble, the mods did "open up" a bit the treble in the Toshiba, it sounds similar enough to the modded Sony. My friends agreed, treble-wise not much difference, at least with the music we were playing. Actually to them no player appeared brighter or bassier than the other in any significant way. The Sony keeps sounding a tiny bit brighter to me (filter in Sharp mode btw), but not sure if it's true treble difference, or a result of that richness balance difference I perceive in the upper/bass-midrange. Overall both are very non-fatiguing and nice sounding for sure. I should clarify, the comparisons were done using exactly the same interconnects (Monster Interlink 400 MkII, actually all my speaker rig described in my profile). So it wasn't a quick A/B switching though, but playing part of a song with player A, then stopping, reconnecting the ic's, and then playing it with B.

 Which one is closer to high-end? Well, cost-wise, the modded Sony for sure 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sound-wise, I really don't know. Would need a higher end player as a reference to compare them to and see where they stand. To my ears, what I'm calling a "richer" midrange in the Toshiba has a special appeal though, vs. the probably more analytical or drier sounding midrange in the Sony. Despite the tiny bit more slam in the Sony, what I'm calling "dryness" in it makes voices sound somewhat a bit thinner compared to how they sound from the Toshiba: a bit richer and fuller, and smoother...

 Most likely I'm abusing my use of English to try to express my impressions, and I compared using my speaker rig, not the Grace 901 (courtesy of Agile_one) and my 650's+Zu, which I'm planning to use after more extended break-in of these mods. So take everything with a pound of salt, YMMV. So far I think these differences I perceived are in the domain of taste-dependence rather than true substantial differences in sound quality. Given my exposure and limited experience, to me these two modded players sound both *very* good, and in a similar league.


 PS. Would like to take the opportunity to say special thanks to Rick for his Sticky DIY links, to Tangent for his pages and feedback, and to Itzbitz and Morsel for their feedback and suggestions. Thanks very much all!


----------



## mclaren20

couls all of those caps be changed, and do you think t would be worth it?


----------



## rsaavedra

Mclaren I'm really not the person to ask. I really don't know what each cap does at all in the circuit, Vinnie Rossi and Swenson know about some of them somehow, I understand official schematics for the circuit in this player are still to be found.

 Some of those caps on that board are probably related to the video circuitry instead of audio, so for audio improvements I wouldn't think changing all of them would help. I have thought about the fat one on the top-right though, next to the RCA outs black block. Since that stock cap is already quite big, maybe if it's related to audio that might be a good replacement candidate.


----------



## ITZBITZ

That fatty is next to a bunch of regulator chips, so it's likely a power supply filter cap or reservoir cap. I don't know how much that can help to upgrade, but hey, at least your caps would match in color. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm stopping by to see Phil at Cimarron Technologies this week to get a SOIC BrownDog adapter to allow me to use two OPA627's instead of the OPA2604. I'll report back on the results when I get it done.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ITZBITZ* 
_That fatty is next to a bunch of regulator chips, so it's likely a power supply filter cap or reservoir cap._

 

Ah yes makes sense the fatty is power related. The power cable coming from the power supply board connects to this other board through the white connector behind the raw of thinner caps on the top, right there very close to the fatty. Hmm, seems then it might represent a good addition to the power supply mods, to replace this fat cap here on the audio board power section with a better cap, well unless this stock cap is good enough already.

 Looking forward to your impressions after alternating opamps Itzbitz.


----------



## smeggy

Neat stuff.
 I'm ordering all my parts soon to mod mine. I'm also going to put it into a ParMetal case with a Front Panel Express faceplate and tray cover. It'll be remote control only after that.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *smeggy* 
_I'm also going to put it into a ParMetal case with a Front Panel Express faceplate and tray cover. It'll be remote control only after that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You'll have to post some pics please, to replace the case of a player sounds like a very interesting project on its own actually.


----------



## smeggy

Yeah, well it *has* to look better than the sucky case Toshiba supplies. I've already made my headphone amp. I can't recall if I posted any pics though. It's a Tripath chip amp with a nice TKD pot and a Jan Mier crossfeed circuit going into the Tripath and then out through an Antique Sound Labs headphone transformer. Bags of dynamics and overhead. Sounds really nice and easily beats anything else I've tried. Cost next to nothing too (relatively speaking) for the level of sound quality I'm getting. Complete custom case from plans I sent to Frontpanel Express. 

 Original 3d rendering of my design. 
http://home.comcast.net/~garybutcher/ampsmall.jpg 

 Real stuff: 

 Top of the sexy case 
http://home.comcast.net/~garybutcher/top.jpg 

 Back 
http://home.comcast.net/~garybutcher/back.jpg 

 Front 
http://home.comcast.net/~garybutcher/front.jpg 

 ASL headphone transformer 
http://home.comcast.net/~garybutcher/ASL.jpg 

 Stripped out Powerwave 
http://home.comcast.net/~garybutcher/board.jpg 

 All the Bits 
http://home.comcast.net/~garybutcher/all.jpg 

 Crossfeed circuit for headphones 
http://home.comcast.net/~garybutcher/crossfeed.jpg


----------



## tortie

Great job! What are your additional mod plans for the future on that CDP? I sense more upgrades to come


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tortie* 
_Great job! What are your additional mod plans for the future on that CDP? I sense more upgrades to come 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

For me possibly replacing that fat cap only, but that would need to be recommended by someone more experienced with circuits than myself. I only have a hunch it might be worthwhile replacing it. Other than that not much more for me. I think I wouldn't want to change that opamp again, still healing bruises and fractures from the tough fight 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 A case replacement sounds interesting but too involving right now for me. I would rather do case work when building the Dynahi.


----------



## ServinginEcuador

As usual, your work looks great and is improving Raul. Great job on the op amp soldering. Once your confidence and skills are higher you'll be able to start tackling bigger and more complicated jobs.


----------



## agile_one

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedr* 
_Mods completed successfully!!!! _

 

Bravo, Raul!

 Great job, and terrific descriptions and pictures of this further enhancement to the Tosh.


----------



## smeggy

This thread is a definate keeper for when my modding starts, lots of references and inspiration to not screw it up.


----------



## rsaavedra

Thanks very much guys for the encouraging comments! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Cheers,
 Raul


----------



## rsaavedra

Itzbitz, do you have any thoughts on cap 905? A guy in Audioasylum who saw the pics on this thread is recommending me to replace that cap also since allegedly it works together with 903 on the DAC:
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/dig...ges/87340.html

 903 got replaced with a Blackgate, but not 905, given that Rossi simply didn't have it in his mods, and I followed those exactly. I have no idea about the circuit of the Toshiba, what those caps are jointly doing on the DAC, or what each leg of that specific DAC does/expects etc.


----------



## rsaavedra

Rossi himself emailed me saying he never replaced 905, but suggests that I give it a try with a Blackgate cap equal to the one used for 903, as suggested. If anything it should improve even further, not deteriorate the sound. In case anyone is interested, according to him:
 905 is tied to the Vcom terminal of the 1751 DAC.
 903 is tied to the Vcc terminal (input voltage to the DAC).

 I'll be changing that cap soon, will order it together with the caps for the Dynahi.


----------



## ITZBITZ

Okay, round two completed. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 First round was the power supply mods, Panasonic FC on the audio board and the OPA2604. First round improved the bass but the high-end was still a bit grainy. Midrange was much improved in terms of overall tonality.

 Second round was the black gates in the recommended spots, plus I replaced 904 and 905 with Panasonic FC's as well. At the same time, I replaced the OPA2604 (yeah, already bored with it) with a pair of OPA627AU's on a BrownDog adapter (2xSO8->SO8).

 Results? I have never been one to believe the "blown out of the water" hyperbole associated with these type of modifications. However, the difference is VERY noticeable, particularly in the treble band. The grain is completely gone with very clear, detailed high frequencies. Symbols are clean, detailed and not gritty or mushed into a "squishtt" sound at all. Very quick, very accurate and a serious improvement over round one.

 In amplification, I can hear an audible difference between the OPA134 and the OPA627. The OPA2604 is supposed to be close to the 134, so I'm guessing the differences are comparable. The bass is rock solid, tight and not overdone. And the midrange is amazing, female vocals come through sounding oh-so-sweet. Separation sounds excellent, off-center vocals sound well focused and defined instead of just off-to-the-side. 

 Amplification is via my high-end PPA with stepped-attenuator and OPA627 chips into Phil's diamond buffer, so the output stage is very complimentary to the source. 

 Sadly, my computer isn't going to cut it as a source unless I find a comparable output stage. The Toshiba is now dead silent in the background, likely due to the OPA627 having a 110dB PSRR compared to the 70-80 of the 2604.

 So yeah, don't wait, order a BrownDog and get a pair of OPA627AU, just tell Phil that Chris sent you.


----------



## rsaavedra

Great info Itzbitz, man you are pushing me to another fight with a tiny opamp replacement it seems.


----------



## ITZBITZ

Glad I'm not the only one up late. I'm about to sit down for another hour of listening before bed, the storm has passed so I don't have to worry about thunder interrupting my listening pleasure.

 I listened the player right before I changed the op-amp and noticed the change immediately. Listening to the same passage within a short amount of time makes it easy, particularly since I listen to the same song quite often. I'm not sure what I'm going to do to my Sonica now to see if it can catch up. I guess it might be time for the old Emu 1212m if the AV710 doesn't work out.


----------



## rsaavedra

So Itzbitz, that browndog adapter has to be soldered directly on the SMD pads where the opamp would normally be soldered on?

 PS. Also, I now notice your 1st round of changes included the OPA2604, but not the blackgates, wonder if that's related to that grain you spotted. Rossi indicates the installation of the 2604 should better be done together with the blackgates because they allegedly have some special synergy.


----------



## ITZBITZ

This is the ticket right here:





 It solders to the board after you've put the two op-amps on it.

 I've used black gates before to replace the stock caps on my Sonica and didn't notice the type of change as I noticed with the op-amp switch last night. I had previously replaced the stock caps with Panasonic FC's until my black gates arrived, so I wasn't using the stock caps before.

 FYI, after a couple of hours of listening last night to very familiar music, I must say that the entire range is now very sweet, clear, not overly detailed, no splashiness at all, just very musical sounding. In short, I think I'm done modding and completely satisfied with the 3950 in its present form.


----------



## rsaavedra

Itzbitz thanks a lot, I'll try your variation on these mods. I'm liking the sound of my modded Tosh a lot already, if it can get even better, I should implement special measures to ensure player's longer life expectancy. Planning to get another 3950 and just store it in a closet, keeping it for spare parts and backup for the future, especially for the transport.


----------



## tortie

Maybe after you have changed the opamps, you guys can try these out 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









Clock upgrade


----------



## morrowaudio

I noticed on stock and modded units that two chips on the processing board get real hot...hot enough to burn your finger. Being in electronics for 26 years I realized this to be a poor design. Installing heat sinks on the two chips will greatly extend the life of your unit. Go to an auto parts shop and get some JB Weld or some other heat resistant epoxy to glue the heat sinks on the chips. 

 One of the chips is the biggest one on the board. The other is on the left corner facing you as you face the front of the unit. 

 You can get free heat sinks at a TV repair shop by asking them for a junk chassis.

 Enjoy!


----------



## morrowaudio

Go out and get a copper foil choke, unwind it and cut to length enough to install a "shield wall" going from front to back between the power supply board and the transport. Cut out notches for the power supply cable. Cut tabs in the copper foil with holes and use the screws that hole the board on to also hold the shield. This keep the RF from the switch mode transformer from reaching tha audio and processing circuits.

 I feel the best mods to do are the PS mods and the mod that bypasses the output stages, found at 

http://johnswenson1.home.comcast.net...3960_mods.html


----------



## morrowaudio

I read somewhere that you can solder another dac chip of the same kind piggyback style on top of the existing one and that this will improve the sound. It was not for this particular player but I was wondering if any of you have heard the same, and would it work for this unit?


----------



## rsaavedra

Itzbitz, just ordered the Browndog. About the capacitors I have a couple of questions:

 1) What exact value (part # if possible) did you use replacing the 904 and 905 caps?

 2) I was planning to replace 905 with a blackgate identical to the one in 903. But I see you didn't use a black gate in 905 but a Panasonic. Did you still keep the blackgate in 903?

 Audiosold, I agree a dissipator in the large chips on the audio board should be a good idea. About the DACs in a bridge, have no idea though.


----------



## ITZBITZ

For 905 and 904, I used the same 120uF panasonics as the long row to the left of the DAC. Same as the one below the op-amp between the two black gates. Other than that, I have the same BG caps you have on your picture. Basically just replace 904 and the one above the DAC (905?) with the panasonic 120uF jobs. I had extra because qty 10 at DigiKey is much cheaper than buying the actual amount needed.

 I'm going to bias the 627's into class A this weekend I think. I need to measure all the voltage first though to get the right resistor value. It sounds so good though, I may just leave it and enjoy and avoid the risk of screwing something up.


----------



## rsaavedra

Thanks Itzbitz, placed the order for the OPA627's and these other caps from Digikey. I also ordered a few small glue-on heat sinks for the audio board chips. More pics coming as soon as they all arrive I get to install them.


----------



## morrowaudio

I followed both mods including vinnies and put in 1uf 600V silver foil in oil capacitors as the output caps. I was lucky to buy them some time ago for $40.00 each and bought 6. Audio Note caps like these run about $400.00 each! Sounds great! I had these caps laying around from some other discarded project. Think about it...$400.00 caps in a $65 player! I have gone insane!

 As I listen at this moment as I write, the sound is liquid, transperant and oh so smooth! Ah! Audio heaven! The single ended 300B mono blocks glowing as they drive the Edgar Horn speaker system. See this link for pictures:

http://www.audiosold.com/roomofbliss.htm


----------



## smeggy

Nice equipment. 

 I was wondering about your room treatment (Teddy) does he absorb better in some places than others and is it advisable to use two cats for sound damping or is one suficcient? Have you tried mounting him on a pole or fixing hit to a cieling corner to cur down on room reflections. I'm very interested as I have 3 cats, all currently doing nothing useful. I was thinking, mounting 2 on poles and stapling one on the back wall. I don't hold out much hope for the back wall one as it's a scrawny Siamese, however, the other two are fluffy Himalayans which should absorb lots of sound.


----------



## morrowaudio

LOL!!! Set tall, small tables on the outside edge of each speaker, next to the speaker. Put a cat on top of each table with their favorite food to keep them afixed to the tables. Bluetak might also work but might cause meow noises in the range of 6 to 10K Hz. Put the last cat on the floor between the speakers, behind the front plane of their front baffle. Also place a food dish in front of that cat.

 Results: You will notice an increase of the soundstage and depth. Sit back and enjoy! You might also from time to time re-fill the food bowls or pet the cats to keep them afixed.

 Other tweeks: Placing tiptoes point side up under the cats has been said to increase detail but also the 6- 10 K hz feedback problem from the cats.

 Great idea!: Place sand boxes under the cats to lesson vibration. The cats have also been founf to stay longer but some have said that an odor developes after extended listening sessions.

 Enjoy! LOL!!!


----------



## Budgie

I just finished similer mods on a non-Toshiba player (a Magnavox). I got much better results from the "Dac output direct through the caps" mod, then through the opamp replacement mod.(I tried it both ways) I hope some of you give it a try that way. You will likely be suprized. (It's also alot less money for that mod.)

 It is amazing how good these cheap (under 100 bucks!) DVD players can sound. I will be comparing it to my much more exespensive and much more tweaked Denon CDP this week, to see which wins for CD playback.


----------



## rsaavedra

Digi-key package arrived yesterday with the opamps, panasonic caps, and the little heat sinks. Only waiting for the brown-dog adapter... (to be continued)


----------



## ServinginEcuador

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedr* 
_... (to be continued)_

 

And we'll be waiting here to read your next chapter in, "How the Solder Flows." It's always great to see someone come into their own and see that they too can do something they didn't think they could previously. Good on ya mate!


----------



## rsaavedra

Thanks Doug, yes I really had my doubts about how my soldering would go, but everything has worked ok so far, the opamp replacement gave me a bit more confidence so I will dare to do yet another smd opamp replacement with the Brown dog adapter. Btw, the Browndog didn't arrive today #$#$%#$, hope it shows up in my mail box tomorrow.


----------



## ServinginEcuador

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedr* 
_Btw, the Browndog didn't arrive today #$#$%#$, hope it shows up in my mail box tomorrow._

 

Today was a federal holiday, so it will have to come on Monday.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ServinginEcuador* 
_Today was a federal holiday, so it will have to come on Monday._

 

Oh that's right, I knew the post office was going to be closed, but just didn't think about it and went to my mail box to see if anything had arrived.


----------



## rsaavedra

The Brown-dog arrived today!!! Hot rodding of the Toshiba about to continue. Check out the parts in the photo:

 1) Brown-dog adapter

 2) Heat sinks for the large IC's on the audio board of the Toshiba

 3) JB Weld (heat resistant epoxy) for gluing those heat sinks to the IC's

 4) Panasonic caps to replace stock C904 and C905

 5) On the back you can see an "HD-14" (Home Depot Gauge 14 outdoors power cord extension), a.k.a. the "Halloween powercord" for its orange and black colors, the one recommended by TAS to make DIY speaker cables and power cords. I'll use it to hardwire a new power cord in the Toshiba (see http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?...14&r=&session=).

 6) Static-shielded bags on the left contain the OPA627's, haven't opened those yet.
 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## ITZBITZ

Be sure to get the dog in the hole correctly. If I recall, looking at the adapter with the IC1 side facing you and the pins on the bottom, the left pin is pin 1. You can verify by comparing the OPA2604 and OPA604 pin outputs and checking continuity on the traces before mounting the chips.


----------



## rsaavedra

Thanks Itzbitz. So if I understand correctly, to place the browndog properly on the toshiba, the IC1 side will end up facing C905 and the fat capacitor of the audio board, right?

 By the way, I noticed we've been incorrectly calling one of the capacitors 904. There is no such thing as a C904 on this board, its actual number is C901. From the top it looks as if it says 904 because of a little hole, but from the bottom it's clear what the real label is:






 I unsoldered the opamp I had placed a few weeks ago, and guess what? After it was out I realized one of the tiny resistors next to the opamp area was completely loose, the one next to the second pad from top to bottom on the right of the opamp area.






 I guess the heating nearby took hold of the soldering that was holding it in place. It took me hours to solder the tiny little thing back on. It is so small that aiming the huge soldering iron tip next to it was very difficult, and I had to keep the tiny resistor in place with my other hand using sharp tweezers, talk about microscopic acrobatics. Finally it got soldered, and I checked with the magnifying glass from several angles, it seems the contacts are fine, even though the resistor ended up a bit crooked. I hope the heat this resistor endured won't affect its performance, and that the contacs are ok. If I hear something weird in one channel after these mods I know what the problem is. Wish me luck!
 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## rsaavedra

Finished soldering the opa627's to the Browndog, then the Browndog to the Toshiba, and then the capacitors. Placed the board back in the player and wanted to try it right away, even before the rest of the mods (heat sinks and power cord) because I was anxious to make sure everything was ok. AND IT'S WORKING AND SOUNDING GREAT!!!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	
















 Gee what a relief!! So the tiny resistor temporarily going loose caused no problem. That got me really very scared thinking I was going to be forced to bypass this whole opamp mod with the Swenson version, fortunately everything is sounding great. Here some pics:

 The Browndog with the OPA627's, IC1 side, once soldered to the Toshiba board:





 Browndog, IC2 side. Interestingly, IC2 needs to get soldered upside down with respect to IC1:





 The completed mods, soldering back the Blackgates, and replacing 901 and 905 with Panasonic caps:






 Now the player is getting unplugged again, will continue with the heat sinks and power cord right away...
 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## ServinginEcuador

You have a good excuse: waiting for some eagerly awaited parts to install into your unit. Understandable.


----------



## rsaavedra

Mods completed!!! Here's a summary of everything.

*Audio PCB*: all caps listed in the Vinnie Rossi mods replaced, plus C901 and C905 with Panasonics (same values as in C902); clock dampened with "white tack"; opamp now replaced with a Browndog adapter holding 2 OPA627's as suggested by Itzbitz (thanks again Itzbitz!); large ic's with heat sinks on them glued with J-B Weld as suggested by Audiosold (thanks again Audiosold!); for completeness I should probably mention the cuts I had made on top side edges of the chassis for better ventilation:





*Power supply*: all Rossi mods done on it, plus stock power cord now replaced with an "HD-14" (no AC grounding of the chassis to avoid groundloops, see this posting). This "Halloween" power cord is exactly thick enough so that its own girth keeps it very tighly fixed to the chassis opening, but I added a little fastener inside for extra anchoring. Outside added RFI filters on each end of the cable. Chose to keep it 6 feet long, same as the stock:






 And now the top cover is back on, hopefully for a long long time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 Player is already going through break in of these last changes, and it's sounding truly beautiful. I'm taking this player to the upcoming FL meet so other Headfiers can check it out.
 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## tortie

Nice work! Maybe you should start your own Toshiba 3950 DIY shop


----------



## Budgie

Nice job rsaavedr! Great pictures too. I am looking forward to the reviews from the Florida meet!


----------



## ITZBITZ

Glad you got it all done and working. Close call on the resistor, glad you were able to get it fixed up without any problems.

 Hopefully at the meet in FL you can get the little "Toshiba that could with $100 in modifications" some respect.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ITZBITZ* 
_Glad you got it all done and working. Close call on the resistor, glad you were able to get it fixed up without any problems._

 

Well I really wouldn't call it "without any problems" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It really took me about 3 hours of trials till I got it in place satisfactorily. Originally I was trying placing the resistor in place and then using a large piece of cork on it while leaving one end of the resistor visible, so I could solder it. But the cork wouldn't hold the resistor at all once the soldering iron and solder had touched the resistor. So tweezers and a steady hand was the only way to keep it in place while soldering one end. And that was very tricky because any microscopic movement of the hand sent the resistor off the pads too easily. A very tough task it was. That grain of salt sized little rectangle is just so small, definitely to be soldered by machines, we are too giant creatures to work reliably with those dimensions. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Itzbitz* 
_Hopefully at the meet in FL you can get the little "Toshiba that could with $100 in modifications" some respect. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Budgie* 
_I am looking forward to the reviews from the Florida meet!_

 

Yes, I'm also bringing my SACDmodded NS500V to add to the participants in this source comparison.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tortie* 
_Nice work! Maybe you should start your own Toshiba 3950 DIY shop 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Well, I need to rest from opamp replacements for a long time


----------



## morrowaudio

Good job on the mod. Thanks for taking my advice on heat sinking the chips. Your unit will last much longer. With mass market on this level Toshiba dosent care that it would only last about 2-4 years without the heat sinks.

 I have been in electronics for 26 years now and have done many mods on McIntosh, etc. I even sell mod kits for some of the McIntosh vintage units like the MR71, etc.

 I started modding my own stuff and before long people were wanting me to mod theirs. 

 I just put up an article about modding your tube amplifier with oil capacitors, removing the electroylitics.

www.audiosold.com


----------



## morrowaudio

I would get at least 16 volt BlackGates since I noticed that on some the DC voltage across them is 5 volts. 6 Volt caps would be taking a chance there.


----------



## rsaavedra

Realized have not indicated the part number for the heatsinks, someone from audioasylum asked me about them. Got them from Digikey.com, the part number was HS273-ND, cost=$0.73/piece, very inexpensive.

 OPA627's = $18.38 each, also from Digikey. These opamps are the most expensive part of all these mods.

Browndog adapter = $6.95+($4.85 S/H) = $11.80

 Halloween power cord from Home Depot was $16.35 for the 25 feet version. Used 6 feet for the Toshiba, so the effective cost of the power cord mod was about $4. Will use the remaining length of this cord to replace the PC's of some of my other components.


----------



## CBMC

where did you get those heatsinks?


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CBMC* 
_where did you get those heatsinks?_

 

Guess you didn't read the posting previous to yours 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Here's a direct link to the part in Digi-key:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...266311&Site=US


----------



## h3nG

man, i'd love to hear that thing.

 i am too lazy to backtrack, so about how much have you spent on the mods so far?


----------



## CBMC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_Guess you didn't read the posting previous to yours 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Here's a direct link to the part in Digi-key:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...266311&Site=US_

 

Sorry about that. Sometimes I just skim through the posts and don't read the entire thing.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *h3nG* 
_i am too lazy to backtrack, so about how much have you spent on the mods so far?_

 

Would need to add the totals of the part orders. Roughly speaking, first round of the Vinnie mods for the parts needed for the power supply and audio board were less than $40 including the blackgates. Second round with the Brown dog + OPA627's was slightly more than that, + the power cord. In total for all these mods, less than $100 in parts.


----------



## CBMC

can the opa637 be used?


----------



## ITZBITZ

I doubt the OPA637 could be used. The gain is likely close to 1-2, so it would not be able to handle it.


----------



## CBMC

One last question. Can the same mods be made on the SD-3960 and the 3950? I noticed that Toshiba had discontinued the 3950. Let me know if anyone has tried this with the 3960.


----------



## rsaavedra

Actually not sure, would suggest check the postings on Audioasylum's Digital drive section: http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/digital/bbs.html, and do a search on the 3960 mods. The swenson mods apply equally to both, but for the Vinnie mods I'm really not sure if the audio boards are completely identical, or there might be minor differences requiring some differences in some capacitor values.


----------



## Mallow005

Did all the mods in this thread except the brown dog adapter (didn't want to try my luck again). The differences are definitely there, but I wish there were some comparisons done to other players as to just how good it is. It's definitely showing me the limits of my Meta42 though, and that hasn't happened before.


----------



## rsaavedra

Just finished replacing the power cords on my Sacdmodded Sony NS500V, and also my Marantz SR4000 receiver. These two had the power cord holes slightly bigger than the diameter of this new cord, so I added some extra padding and fasteners, might improve that part later in the future. Here the Toshiba on top, under it the Sony, and at the bottom the Marantz:





 With respect to the Sony, I checked with Matthew and he told me the warranty on the Sacdmods of the Sony player is still perfectly valid after this change, given that I was not changing anything on his mods or the audio board/power supply circuits.

 The plugs I used for these two PC's were bright yellow heavy duty/commercial Leviton's Grounding Nylon Plugs ($4 each at Walmart). Here the new power cord plug of the Marantz connected to an ultimate outlet:





 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## gastro54

Great job on the mods. I am curious, how does the modified power cable affect the sound? Do you use any sort of power conditioning? And lastly, where do you get those spiffy RF filters?


----------



## rsaavedra

Well this cable has thicker gauge (14), but how that results in the final sound is hard to tell. 

*Edited: actually audio-quality wise it is not better to have the AC ground connected to the chassis in this player, see this posting further down. AC ground lead in the powercord is disconnected from the chassis to avoid ground loops.*

 The stock cable has thinner insulation, this new powercord is not magnetically shielded either, but the insulation is way thicker than the stock for each wire, and then there's the thick orange jacket. Chose it because it was recommended by TAS to be used as speaker cable and power cord. The cable is surprisingly very flexible despite its thickness. How it might improve the sound not sure, but I guess slightly cleaner power.

 The RFI filters I got long ago from www.digikey.com, you can find them in their catalog looking for "ferrite beads".


----------



## victort

Do you have a ken number or a product id for the RFI Filter from Digikey


----------



## rsaavedra

Mine are the cylindrical clamp-on Ferrite beads manufacturered by Steward, Digikey part # is 240-2066-ND. I actually got a bunch of them after reading this article a few years ago, the link still works:
http://www.soundstage.com/synergize/synergize200009.htm

 PS. Hey nice Tintin avatar. Standard Headfi welcome required since that was your first post, so: Welcome to Headfi and sorry about your wallet!


----------



## victort

Thanks


----------



## CBMC

Does anyone know what the 300 caps are far on the audio board. Basically the only ones that Rossi did not recommed to upgrade. Their value is 22uf, i believe. I wonder if changing these out would help anything.

 I also wondered how you installed those .47 noise filter caps. Did you just jam the leads in the same holes as the caps that where already in 801 and 802?


----------



## CBMC

What did you use to dampen the clock?


----------



## CBMC

Does anyone know how to contact Vinnie Rossi?


----------



## gastro54

Damp w/ blu-tack or rope caulk. Try contacting Vinnie @ audio asylum.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CBMC* 
_What did you use to dampen the clock?_

 

I used some white tack that I got from Home Depot. I've realized there are many such "tacks". Have also seen a "yellow tack" (sold with that name), and of course the audio favorite "blue tack". All of them and rope caulk should work similarly well for dampening the clock.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CBMC* 
_I also wondered how you installed those .47 noise filter caps._

 

For the .47 uf capacitors in the power supply, they couldn't be jammed right away together with the legs of the stock blue caps, not enough room, two of those legs are too thick for one hole in the board. I had to use a dremel tool to file those legs down slightly, so that their diameters became smaller, after that they would fit together in a hole. See this posting


----------



## CBMC

I just decided to solder the .47 capacitors to the leads of the capacitors that were already there. Saved me time using the dremel(although it was a bit hard to solder the two capacitors together).


----------



## rsaavedra

A link to the recent FL meet thread where some impressions on this modded Toshiba have been posted:
http://www5.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=77041


----------



## Neville

First of all....thanks to ALL who have made this a big intro into electronics for me !!!!

 I have all parts relating to RSAAVEDRA and ITZBITZ, but noticed very little talk on replacing the standars RCA connectors. I know that the connectors are all soldered in, together as one big group of RCA's. Has anybody replaced them with Cardas or any other brand ? I only use this for 2 channel, so would consider removing the whold group and just adding on decent RCA connectors. Your thoughts on this ?

 There are some slight differences between the 3950 and 3960. Apart from the 3960 being all plastic, the PCB parts layouts are slightly different. The Power Supply PCB has the fuse sitting right next to one of the parts that needs replacing, not a big issue. Once I have finished adding the opamps I would be glad to take pics and upload for those that are interested.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_I have all parts relating to RSAAVEDRA and ITZBITZ, but noticed very little talk on replacing the standars RCA connectors. I know that the connectors are all soldered in, together as one big group of RCA's. Has anybody replaced them with Cardas or any other brand ? I only use this for 2 channel, so would consider removing the whold group and just adding on decent RCA connectors. Your thoughts on this ?_

 

Last step in the Vinnie Rossi mods is to install separate cardas RCA outs, so Rossi for sure did that. Also the Swenson mods involve installing new separate RCA outs. I thought about it but didn't do that part. Guru (gsferrari) also asked me if I considered that. It might involve removing the whole group of outs as you indicate, or branching out from somewhere in the board to the new outs, having the stock ones in parallel, which didn't seem too good an idea for me. Also I still wanted the video for entering setup options, and after the mods it sounded great with the stock outs, so decided to skip that part of the mods altogether.

  Quote:


 There are some slight differences between the 3950 and 3960. Apart from the 3960 being all plastic, the PCB parts layouts are slightly different. The Power Supply PCB has the fuse sitting right next to one of the parts that needs replacing, not a big issue. 
 

Some people in Audioasylum claim the stock 3960 usually sounded slightly better than the stock 3950. When modded, however, they both became the same other much better sounding animal. I got the 3950 because that's what the local Best Buy had when I went looking for them.

 Speaking of the fuse, there are recommendations to replace the stock fuse with a ceramic one, allegedly with sound improvements. I didn't read about that when placing my lattest Digi-key order, so haven't done it. But also, I really don't think a fuse replacement in the power supply can change the sound much, given the other major modifications in the power supply and the audio board.

  Quote:


 Once I have finished adding the opamps I would be glad to take pics and upload for those that are interested. 
 

Yes pics are always welcome. Good luck!


----------



## CBMC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_I have all parts relating to RSAAVEDRA and ITZBITZ, but noticed very little talk on replacing the standars RCA connectors. I know that the connectors are all soldered in, together as one big group of RCA's. Has anybody replaced them with Cardas or any other brand ? I only use this for 2 channel, so would consider removing the whold group and just adding on decent RCA connectors. Your thoughts on this ?_

 


 I e-mailed Vinnie, he just wired the cardas jacks in parallel with the existing left/right jacks. I noticed also that there is 3 community grounds going to all the jack inputs on the board(these are the three solder joints closest to the edge of the board). To find the positive right/left inputs just use a continuity meter.

 Unfortunately I have not found a way to use the pre-existing holes with the cardas jacks. First off, they are too big. They will fit in the hole but the nut intrudes with the hole next to it. I am still working on a way to get this to work. I think I am going to take out the whole jack input case and try to add the inputs individually. I will let you know the results which I hope will be today. I have everything done except the blackgates. I placed my order from partsconnexion on June 22nd and still have not received it. Hopefully I will today.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CBMC* 
_Unfortunately I have not found a way to use the pre-existing holes with the cardas jacks. First off, they are too big. They will fit in the hole but the nut intrudes with the hole next to it. I am still working on a way to get this to work. I think I am going to take out the whole jack input case and try to add the inputs individually. I will let you know the results which I hope will be today._

 

Have not seen anyone installing new cardas outs using the stock placement for the audio outs. I've read of new cardas outs installed closer to the center of the back of the player, e.g. not using the pre-existing holes but the area available next to it, which would require some drilling of the back panel. People doing the swenson mods have placed the capacitors in an external box attached to the back of the player, and then new cardas outs installed on that extra little box. In any case good luck and yes please let us know how it goes!


----------



## CBMC

I fear that the only way that I could get the cardas to go into the existing holes is to remove some of the other inputs, which I really don't want to do. What I am going to do is try the stock jacks. Then try adding the cardas jacks in parallel to the stock jacks. I will see if there is a noticeable difference in sound. I am a little worried that wiring two jacks in parallel will actually diminish the sound quality.

 I will definitely post some pictures once I get everything done.


----------



## gastro54

wee, finished my swenson mods. RCA jacks mounted onto _Audiophile_ compressed cellulose fiber with pleasant brown hue.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gastro54* 
_wee, finished my swenson mods. RCA jacks mounted onto Audiophile compressed cellulose fiber with pleasant brown hue._

 

LOL!!! I couldn't help noticing that your assembly is resting on top of what appears to be _Audiophile_ uncompressed cotton or polyester fiber with pleasant bluish/purple hue, very nice dampening and insulation 

 How do you like the Swenson mods btw?


----------



## gastro54

I haven't tested my swenson mod yet, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 its late too late and people are sleeping to play my speakers. I sold my meta42 and am about to build a ppa and probably buy a pair of CD3Ks. I will finish building my diy woofers tommorow and my woofer amp will arrive tommorow too so I will be able to give a nice review then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




:


----------



## gastro54

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_LOL!!! I couldn't help noticing that your assembly is resting on top of what appears to be Audiophile uncompressed cotton or polyester fiber_

 

Ahem! Ahem! Cotton thankyouverymuch


----------



## Neville

Gastro54, what caps are you using and whats the specs? They look like Auri caps but I could be wrong. Are the Cardas caps any better ?

 Let me try to understand this : if you do the Swenson mod, then you bypassing the BBrown upgrades right ? So if thats the case you really only want to upgrade the RCA jacks ????


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_if you do the Swenson mod, then you bypassing the BBrown upgrades right ? So if thats the case you really only want to upgrade the RCA jacks ????_

 

You can do the Swenson mods together with the Vinnie Rossi power supply mods, and also a bunch of capacitor replacements in the audio board are not directly related to the opamp replacement, they might apply to the Swenson as well, but I haven't checked this in detail.


----------



## gastro54

You still would want to upgrade the power supply which I have not done yet, and also a few of the caps on the board, which I also have not done. I am currently using .47 uF AuriCaps. I'm not sure about how they sound in comparison to the Cardas, but I plan on buying some of the Sprague Vitamin Q caps and do some "cap rolling" as the capacitors are the most essential part of this mod. For the noise filer cap I used 300pf silver mica as recommended in his guide. For the RCA jacks, I used radioshack gold plated ones. I personally don't think that spending loads of money on connectors is going to make any audible difference.

 EDIT: Look here for what caps to replace: http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?...et&r=&session=

 And BTW, now that I can listen to my speakers, the Swenson Mods sound great! Much more detailed than before.


----------



## Budgie

Glad to hear someone else finally went the Swenson mod route. If sounds (much) better, but picking the right caps is critical to getting the most from the mod.


----------



## gastro54

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Budgie* 
_Glad to hear someone else finally went the Swenson mod route. If sounds (much) better, but picking the right caps is critical to getting the most from the mod._

 

Did you do the swenson mods as well? I'm not sure if you are saying "it" or "if" in your post. What improvements did you hear over the vinnie mods if you did both?


----------



## rsaavedra

I've read in audioasylum some people indeed have had great results with the Swenson mod, in some cases better than with the Vinnie Rossi mods. But hey, those Rossi modded Toshibas they might have compared with didn't have the Browndog with the 627's 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 No seriously, the Swenson might sound still better possibly, but it seemed to me a little unpredictable depending on the matching issue and the choice of capacitors. As a matter of fact, Swenson's mods don't indicate precisely what capacitor to use, it is up to the modder to choose among several possible options/brands. I prefered to follow the more concrete, less open-ended instructions of the Rossi mods.


----------



## gastro54

Yea, thats also true, most of the people that did the vinnie rossi mods on AA didn't have those nice 627s. I think I'll try vinnie mods if I get a second 3960 (highly likely)


----------



## Neville

Well my Browndog arrived last week and my OPA627's with heatsinks and ferrites arrive today. If only my partsconnexion order arrived this week, then I would be all set for the weekend. It apparrently shipped last Monday 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am now considering doing the Swenson mod after I have done the above and let it burn in for a few days. Would it be practical to connect the wires to the top of the PCB instead of the underside like Swenson does? I guess what I am trying to do is get the cable to be as close to the RCA connectors as possible and then it would be connected to Auri/Cardas caps.

 Any advice ?


----------



## CBMC

Don't expect that partconnexion order anytime soon. My order was sent out June 22nd and still has not arrived in St. Louis. Hopefully I will get it today. I talked to partsconnexion and they said that if after 14 buisness days it hasn't arrived they would send out a new order. Hope it doesn't come down to that though.


----------



## gastro54

I paid for my parts connexion order on the 28th and received it in Atlanta on the 6th. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 EDIT: since you are removing the PCB anyways, it is easier to solder on the bottom of the board instead of the top, I had no problems.


----------



## Neville

Gastro54, I also abide in GA, but sadly no parts have shown up 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But what I will do in the meantime is head over to HDepot and get some tack and if they sell it, some JB Weld to bond the $1 tile to the chassis. 

 Some questions I have:
 1. has anybody put damping under the PCB's when seated in the chassis ?
 2. I received my OPA627 in an anti-static bag and it makes references to "baking" it in order to reduce static ???? I am confused here...
 3. would a DAC improve the sound ? some threads in AAsylum indicate not
 4. has anybody tried replacing the fuse with a ceramic one and did they notice an improvement ?

 Thanks


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_1. has anybody put damping under the PCB's when seated in the chassis ?_

 

I placed some small pieces of vinyl tiles under them. Also some pieces of rope caulk recently.

  Quote:


 2. I received my OPA627 in an anti-static bag and it makes references to "baking" it in order to reduce static ???? I am confused here... 
 

I remember reading that as well, but never did such "baking", wasn't sure what they were talking about. I have this red antistatic mat (radio shack) to work on, and assumed there wouldn't be any problem. It seems there wasn't, but let's see if any DIYer has any feedback about that baking.

  Quote:


 3. would a DAC improve the sound ? some threads in AAsylum indicate not 
 

No idea, but the stock DAC seems to be doing an amazingly good job.

  Quote:


 4. has anybody tried replacing the fuse with a ceramic one and did they notice an improvement ? 
 

Not yet, but I'll try to remember including that in my next digi-key order.


----------



## rsaavedra

Well after receiving word of advice from Morsel, Goddess of Grounding, I will remove the connection between the chassis and AC ground of my Toshiba, Sony, and Marantz. Contrary to my original naive intuition, having such connections is prone to cause more ground loops than not having it, so while I'll keep the cool and sturdy halloween powercords, will disconnect their green (ground) leads from the chassis of my components.


----------



## CBMC

Will you just cut that ground off?


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CBMC* 
_Will you just cut that ground off?_

 

I connected the green (ground) lead of the new power cords to the chassis of each respective component using a small bolt and nut. Will just have to remove that connection in each of the components and make sure that green lead will be properly isolated from the chassis. This way the components will get again exactly the same electrical connection to AC that they had before the power cord mods, only with better power cords.


----------



## Neville

OK so my Parts Connexiion order arrived today - yipeeee.

 Now soldering the dual 627 on the Browndog was easy, but how on earth do you remove the old part so I can put the browndog adapter down ?

 Should I be using wick, which I dont have ?

 Interestingly I checked all my other solder points from previous weeks mods and found 2 that were loose !


----------



## CBMC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_OK so my Parts Connexiion order arrived today - yipeeee._

 

I am starting to think my package got lost. Out of curiosity, what method shipping did you use from partsconnexion? If the package is lost it will be the second time that the good ole USPS has lost one of my packages.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_Now soldering the dual 627 on the Browndog was easy, but how on earth do you remove the old part so I can put the browndog adapter down ? Should I be using wick, which I dont have?_

 

Yeah, you can just buy the desoldering wick at Radio Shack for about $3. It does take a little patience and gentle handling to get the stock opamp off. I wicked up the solder the best I could by going over each pin a few times with the braid, then I held my soldering iron so that it would contact all four pins on one side and wiggled the pins loose. I read that if you are not careful you will rip the metal off the board.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_Interestingly I checked all my other solder points from previous weeks mods and found 2 that were loose !_

 

I would check all your joints to make sure that they are soldered correctly. It is quite odd for 2 solder joints just to come loose unless you are really tugging on those joints or you have a bad joint.


----------



## Neville

I ordered USPS postal which turned out to be nearly 2 weeks. 

 Well I got it off finally, dont ask me how but my iron tip is way too big. Everytime I put down some solder it ends up being a BLOB and overlaps the next foots solder *sigh*. Well I hope I have not damaged the board and ripped the metal off as well ! I might be out of a 3960 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 but hopefully I can sneek back in BBuy for another one and then restart the mods but this time will start with the 627/browndog replacement - with the right tools!!!!!

 Giving it quits for tonight until i get some braid, a decent iron tip and a real magnifying glass which will be tomorrow. Hopefully I can then deduce after soldering browndog/627 and parts from partsconnexion if I really did screw up my 3960......


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CBMC* 
_It does take a little patience and gentle handling to get the stock opamp off._

 

Very much so.


  Quote:


 I wicked up the solder the best I could by going over each pin a few times with the braid, then I held my soldering iron so that it would contact all four pins on one side and wiggled the pins loose. I read that if you are not careful you will rip the metal off the board. 
 

Not only that, if you are not careful you might heat up the area too much, and the joints of those tiny SMD resistors located right there next to the legs of the stock opamp might melt unnoticeably. In those circumstances, the slightest touch might push the resistor far away from its pad as it happened to me, then it was a whole saga putting it back in place. Be careful with that. Use very little amounts of flux (if any) for unsoldering the opamp legs, so as not to spread the heat around too much.


----------



## Neville

I have finally met my match! I admit that I am also a newbie at this, soldering I have done before but not anything as delicate as this.

 Anyway listening to vinyl and sipping on "screwdrivers" has made me smile again. Tomorrow will be an interesting day - but I WILL NOT GO DOWN EASY !!!!!

 A proposal for Rsaavedra: if i have messed up on my audio pcb, would you be willing to solder my browndog onto a new audio pcb, of course I am willing to pay 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just love the fact that a $60 dvd player can oust an average $1000 player, but it does involve a lot of patience, time, good tools and a VERY steady hand. After hearing my 3960 before; I did my mod tonight; will get me to delve into the "value for money market". Well I have to anyway, since $bills don't grow in my backyard


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_A proposal for Rsaavedra: if i have messed up on my audio pcb, would you be willing to solder my browndog onto a new audio pcb, of course I am willing to pay 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I appreciate the thought, but I'd much rather encourage you to ask Itzbitz or some of the other experienced DIYer's, so that you can expect a reliable result. Really a drop of sweat appears in my forehead just remembering those microscopic battles with the stock opamp, and then with the Burrbrown when replacing it with the Browndog. It can be done but it does take care and a steady hand, and a lot of patience. I almost messed up my own attempt with that tiny resistor going loose, would not want to be in the same situation with someone else's player in my care.


----------



## rsaavedra

But for your peace of mind, by far the real difficult part is to remove the opamp. Soldering the Browndog is not very difficult in comparison. Hold it in place accurately, and bring the tip of the iron gun with a tiny bit of solder to one of its legs, just a quick tapping is enough, hold it for a second and it should cool down, then do the same for the opposite diagonal leg. After that it's firmly in place, so you won't need to hold it. Just go over the remaining legs with similar brief tappings putting just a bit of solder, and it's done.


----------



## CBMC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_Well I got it off finally, dont ask me how but my iron tip is way too big. Everytime I put down some solder it ends up being a BLOB and overlaps the next foots solder *sigh*._

 

If I had a guess I would say you are not only using too big of a tip but also too thick of solder. I used the .032 Kester solder with no problems. Any bigger than that might be harder too work with. 

 On a side note. If you ever want the pins on that opamp to look really big and easy to solder just take a look over at that toshiba chip that has at least 256 pins on it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 On a serious note, if you are having a lot of problems soldering the soic chips then buy some cheapies and practice soldering with some of those.

 Just to try and make you feel better. After I got done putting the opa627's on the browndog adaptors I realized that I had used a magnetic screwdriver to hold them down. I am still waiting on my blackgates from partsconnexion. I pray that no damage was done.

 Even if the board is messed up I wouldn't neccesarily scrap that board. Someone could probably add a pad back to the board to get it working. Good Luck.


----------



## rsaavedra

Hey guys, to keep your motivation up for doing the mods on the cheapo Tosh, the hype over at Ausioasylum seems to have been enough to make John Atkinson, Editor of Stereophile, get a 3950 himself to submit to his usual scrutiny:


http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/cr...sages/898.html


 I only hope he'll check not just the stock version but a modded one too.


----------



## Wmcmanus

Raul, believe it or not I had totally missed this massive thread until now! If it's not obvious, I stay far away from the DIY forum... and to think that I also had a chance at the Florida meet to compare this gem to the stock player! Wow, I totally blew it. 

 You've done fantastic work and have provided a great service to head-fi with all of your detailed photos, descriptions, links to other sites, etc. Congrats on getting it all done, and now having a chance to enjoy it fully.


----------



## Budgie

In my system (modded DVD- homebrew interconnects-modded Skeres amp- CD3K's) the direct out from the D/A through the coupling caps, was much cleaner and smoother in the upper octaves, and the bass was natural sounding and less bloated, then throught the whole opamp and resistors chain. (I used 4 mfd poly/oil caps and teflon insulated copper wire) 
 (edit-) I also added a ferrite bead on the wires between the d/a and the coupling cap, to further reduce clock noise, though I have no way to verify the effectivness of doing so. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 No matter which opamps I tried in the circuit, the sound was better without the extra opamp, capacitor and resistors in the circuit. I did not have any 627's on hand, but I doubt they difference would be so dramatic, compared to the other opamps I tried, so as to make me believe it would be better then the direct path to the d/a.
 I would also add that I use very short (1 foot) interconnects. The d/a output might not drive long interconnects as well, so "ymmv". 
 It is pretty easy to have both mods in the player at the same time, which is what I did. One set of jacks for the vinnie mod, one for the swenson mod.


----------



## rsaavedra

Wayne glad you stopped by, thanks much for the comments


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Budgie* 
_It is pretty easy to have both mods in the player at the same time, which is what I did. One set of jacks for the vinnie mod, one for the swenson mod._

 

Are you sure of this? Swenson mods require you to disconnect the negative leads of caps 910 and 912. To keep the Vinnie mods you couldn't do that. And it seems to me, to do the Swenson you have to.

 Even if it's doable I wouldn't put the two mods together in one player. I am ordering another 3950 in principle to keep in a closet for spair parts. But a backup doesn't need to remain stock, does it? ;-D Most likely I'll order the parts and will do the Vinnie power supply + audio board mods (non-opamp related) + the Swenson mod on that one during the Summer.


----------



## gastro54

Yea, I'm not sure that you can have both completed mods operational at the same time because of what rsaavedra said. You prevent the signal from even reaching the opamp when you disconnect the caps in the swenson mod. If you left the caps there/replaced them with vinnie mod caps, then some of the signal would be going thought the opamp, and some would go to the swenson mod caps. I could work, but I'm not sure if dividing the signal into two paths would be wise.


----------



## Budgie

Like this-
 The output of the swenson mod can be the input to the next stage, which is the opamp of the vinnie mod. In other words, you can tap signal off at the input of the opamp or at the output of the opamp. Since the input to the opamp is very high impedance, (multiple megohms typically) the problem with feeding two sources is not an issue. It works fine and is not audible. If you don't believe me, use a socket for the opamp, then you can unplug it when you try the swenson mod.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Budgie* 
_The output of the swenson mod can be the input to the next stage, which is the opamp of the vinnie mod._

 

That sounds to me as if you simply don't have the Vinnie mod proper. The presence of the Swenson capacitors might be altering the signal feeding the opamp in the Vinnie mod. Not sure about that either, but that would be my guess. You really might not be listening to what the Vinnie mods proper (and Swenson mods proper for that matter) might be able to do.


----------



## CBMC

finally got my order from Partsconnexion. It only took 23 days


----------



## Neville

CBMC- ouch that was a looooooooong time.

 Well guys - guess what ? IT WORKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 I did exactly as suggested by you and bought a new iron with a small iron tip and screwed it on, also got desoldering braid/wick.

 I was so impressed by it that i redid the 627's on the browndog and it looks pretty neat. It did take me almost an hour to get the browndog on the PCB.

 THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH !!!!!

 I got her playing for an hour and will listen then, will take it apart after that to add damping to it. I will take pics of it when its reopened.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_Well guys - guess what ? IT WORKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Many congratulations Neville!!! I know exactly how you feel man, enjoy and happy listening!!!


----------



## Neville

Thanks Rsaavedra, and boy does she sound sweet. There is a LOT more detail to every cd I have listened to so far. Its also very very smooth.
 I cannot do a A/B comparison but from my recollection, I would put the "3968" (am I entitled to a new name??) in the class of the mid-tier Linn cd players, NAD does not even come close, neither does most Rotel players.
 It is also far superior to the stock Pioneer 563 I had as well as to my 5 cd carousal Sony SACD/dvd player. So yes, I can agree that It sounds like a $500-$1000 player 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I tried to upload, but limit of 25kb forced me to use a link to my website:

 This is the Power PCB layout:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/power-pcb-layout.JPG

 1. note the location of fuse and Panasonic ECG 150uF 250V - very different location

 This is the fuse and noise filter:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/noise_filter.JPG

 2. Too close for my liking. But you might also note that I removed the existing filters. I cannot understand how piggybacking 2 components is going to improve anything. It makes sense if it flowed from one to the other but that is not the case here.

 This is another closeup of the fuse and filter:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/noise_closeup.JPG

 3. If I had known about the fuse tweak I would have kept the longer legs on the filter next to the fuse, but its not like I will be changing fuses often (I hope!) Look at that monster Panasonic ECG !! Its height brings it into close proximity to the DVD top case. I am going to either have to shorten the legs or place the HDepot tile on the outside of the case.

 So what did I not replace ? 
 "Replace C825 (10V, 120uF) with Panasonic FC 16V, 220uF 
 [Digi-Key Part Number P11199-ND]"

 Reason was Digikey did not have it in stock but I am not planning on doing it anyway if they do restock...


 Future mods:
 1. ceramic fuse - Rshack only had glass fuses 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 2. damping which I plan on doing today with JR Wels
 3. "takking" the crystal - Lowes had "fun tak" which i hear is not the right one. I cannot see why AAdvisor sells Blu Tak for $10 ??? Any other places ?
 4. Painting it black - all my components are black except for my Jolida 1501RC.
 5. Adding el cheapo rubber feet from a previous project
 6. replacing power cord with HDepot power cord
 7. I have not used the video menus but will look into that - I have not found any comments if there are menu tweaks 
 8. Adding heatsinks chips on Audio PCB

 My gut feel tells me that damping and rubber feet will make the biggest difference, obviously apart from the drastic part mods its already undergone.


----------



## rsaavedra

Great job Neville!


  Quote:


 So yes, I can agree that It sounds like a $500-$1000 player 
 

Boy this reminds me I should update my own Recommended digital sources thread, indeed I agree the modded Toshiba could be nominated for the $1K+ range (maybe more, that is just conservatively speaking).


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_But you might also note that I removed the existing filters. I cannot understand how piggybacking 2 components is going to improve anything. It makes sense if it flowed from one to the other but that is not the case here._

 

Well, same as resistors do to total resistance when they are in series, that's what capacitors do to total capacitance when they are connected in parallel. And the larger the capacitance here, the better the filtering for the mains, so I understand that's why Vinnie recommended to put them in parallel with the stock blue ones. But the new large black ones alone in principle do way better filtering than the blue ones, so you should be fine.


  Quote:


 Its height brings it into close proximity to the DVD top case. I am going to either have to shorten the legs 
 

I would just bend it sideways if possible, so in that case longer legs are actually more convenient.


  Quote:


 3. "takking" the crystal - Lowes had "fun tak" which i hear is not the right one. I cannot see why AAdvisor sells Blu Tak for $10 ??? Any other places ? 
 

As long as it doesn't catch fire when heated up, and that it doesn't conduct electricity, I don't see why it wouldn't be the right one. It's just mechanical dampening after all, pretty much any non-combustible, non-conductive thick plaster would do. Rope caulk for instance should work as well.


----------



## Jose Garcia

Hi to everyone. This is my first post in this fantastic forum and I want to congratulate all of you and thanks Raul Saavedra for his pictures , excellent information and help.

 I have read many information about this mods and I'm enthusiastic about them. Just checked at Digi-Key for the parts but most of them are on backorder or out of stock. So, I decided to check at Michael Percys site and gave him the details. Most of his line includes Nichicon ( which I like) but no Panasonic. With the Op-amp and Black Gates have no problems.

 I want to consult you about this posible changes in parts to see if they are ok.

 1- Digi-Key P5930-ND Replace the stock 68uF 200V electrolytic cap with a Panasonic ECG 150uF 250V type for better filtering and lower ESR 

 MP has this one available...Black Gate 150uF , 350 V $20.50

 Could I use this one ? Does it justifies the price difference?

 2- Digi-Key P10528-ND Add a Panasonic X2-rated 0.47uF Noise Filter cap in parallel across C801 and one across C802 for better mains filtering 

 MP offer a Solen noise filter cap with 0.47uF , 600V $1.60/each

 Could I do without them? Are this ok?

 3- Digi-Key Part Number P10244-ND Replace C621, C514, C533, C506, C702, C631, C709, C707, C710, C705, and C902 (all 16V, 100uF) with Panasonic FC 16V,120uF 

 MP has Nichicon FG 100uF, 25V . Vinnie told me that I may use 220uF , 16V too ( as long as they provide space ). Any other value?

 4- C-825

 I suspect that this cap is not on-board of the SD-3960. Has anyone noticed this too? 

 Thanks again,

 Jose/PR.


----------



## rsaavedra

Hi Jose!

 Standard salute: Welcome to Headfi, and sorry about your wallet!!!
 Nice to see a fellow audioasylum crawler crawling on these other audio lands 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 4- C-825
 I suspect that this cap is not on-board of the SD-3960. Has anyone noticed this too? 
 

Yes, I haven't seen the insides of a 3960, but have read about that difference:
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/dig...ges/88892.html

 (Guess what Jose, only now I realize that link points to a posting of yours 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







)

 About cap values/brands and which ones are ranked ok or better than others, or which ones might do better for the Toshiba's circuit, I really don't have such knowledge. Probably some of the DIYers here might want to share bits of their expertise on that.


----------



## Jose Garcia

Gracias Raul:

 I saw the new Toshiba SD-4960 unit for sale at E-Bay 

http://cgi.msn.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI...708420702&rd=1

 JandR was announcing these units for a few weeks now but never changed the "pre-order" status. The same with another store named EZDVD. I heard that there were a call-back because of video problems.

 At the Asylum, we were specting to get out and heard news from their first buyers, so we can have an idea on how this unit was as a stand alone CD and SACD. The miracle of the 3950/3960 sound could knock twice !!! I HOPE.

 Jose.


----------



## Neville

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_Great job Neville!


 I would just bend it sideways if possible, so in that case longer legs are actually more convenient.

 When damping the chassis, I resoldered the BIG ONE and seated him pretty close to PCB. I have plenty clearance.

 As long as it doesn't catch fire when heated up, and that it doesn't conduct electricity, I don't see why it wouldn't be the right one. It's just mechanical dampening after all, pretty much any non-combustible, non-conductive thick plaster would do. Rope caulk for instance should work as well._

 

Fire ???? I recall from my early days of overclocking/now tweaking, heat is ENEMY #1. I have left the side air vents but have damped everything else.
 (just in case....when i do damp the top cover I plan to add slits for air vents...just small ones 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Here is a link of damping the Power PCB:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/damping-1.JPG

 And a pic of both PCB and cd-tray being damped:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/damping-2.JPG
 (sorry about it being blurred)


 Here is final pic of chassis with PCBs installed:
http://www.uniqpc.com/toshiba_3960/damping-3.JPG

 I ran out of tiles for the DVD cover but already it is pretty heavy and solid!
 I also attahced RFI beads to my power and rca connectors.

 Jose Garcia : I would say that it does not matter as long as the specs equal or exceed current part specs: welcome aboard !!!! But then again I am a newbie at this - this is only my recommendation from a computer parts perspective.


----------



## Jose Garcia

Thanks Neville...

 Nice pictures. How about the clock? Have you already damped it?

 I will suggest to use bearings instead of rubber feets.

 Here is a picture of my bearings devise...

http://www.audioweb.com/Ad/Images/145454.JPG

 ...sand fill
 ...concave door knobs
 ...copper end caps
 ...crazy glue
 ...ball bearings

 That's all.

 Jose.


----------



## Jose Garcia

Raul...

 Do you have those stock caps on hand? 

 What are the sizes of them?

 Jose.


----------



## Neville

"Nice pictures. How about the clock? Have you already damped it?"
 Not yet, but I do plan to do it. I like those feet/balls !!!

 Well 5 hours of playing redbook and here is my early verdict:
 Foreground music and especially vocals are more pronounced, background
 instruments/vocals has turned from hazy to sharp.

 Man I cannot wait for another 24 hours ................................

 John Atkinson, you better nominate this and the HDepot/Halloween cables as tweak of the year !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now...back to tweaking my Maggie speakers


----------



## Jose Garcia

Don't expect much out of John Atkinson review. You know how this it. He will be reviewing the stock model and he will have some pressure from the "Big Guys" who pays for the magazine ad$$$.

 If he only have a modified unit to compare the stock model!!!

 Sue Craft made trash out of the Toshiba in a recent review. I didn't read it but there were enough talking at the Asylum. She has very expensive system and heard much of everything. A few inmates said that she never read the manual and the settings were not the best , to begin with. 

 At least, John Atkinson is more responsible when he audition a system. Telling that the SD-3950/3960 is a bargain at this price and that compares to system costing $500-1K is like throwing stones to a glass window...So I belive he may be polite on his results but nothing more.

 Jose.


----------



## Neville

I believe you Jose. Sometimes they have to come down to terra firma and learn that the masses cannot afford $350,000 amps and who knows how much for speakers and cables.

 I dont enjoy and very seldom read reviews of products that are way out of my budget - in St'phile it seams to be the majority of them. Absolute Sound on the other hand has done a 360 and started reviewing even some products I can afford 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Oh well, let the masses learn and spread the good word of "value for money".


----------



## drewd

Changing directions every so slightly...Amazon has the 3950 for $70 with a $20 rebate. Mine is on the way and I ordered Vinnie Rossi's recommended parts from Digi-Key. I need to order the BG's from PC tomorrow. Everything is in stock at Digi-Key except for the 470uF Panasonic cap, but the next size up (680?) is in stock and the same physical size, so I just ordered that. Now all I have to do is count on a little bit of synchronicity and maybe everything will show up at the same time. Cross your fingers, etc.

 -Drew


----------



## rsaavedra

Jose, which stock caps are you referring to, the blue ones in the power supply? Mine are still inside the player, I connected the new black ones in parallel with the stock ones, you can see this in this picture, see the blue ones under the big black ones? If you were referring to the 825, no except for the 16v 120uf in the audio board (still have 8 of those left), I bought exactly the # of caps needed for the replacements.

 Neville, am so curious to know what Atkinson finds. Even in the stock it would be interesting to see if he finds low jitter measures. But if he evaluates a stock one, definitely I expect little if any high praise from him. After the hype of the moddes units, it will be really almost ridiculous to choose a stock and not evaluate a modded one though.

 Drewd, I also have another 3950 in transit from Amazon. Will order all the needed parts for the mods after receiving it, but that one I'll do the Swenson mods to, no more SMD opamp replacements for me with SMD tiny resistors so closeby. Still, Swenson for the audio board, but other than the opamp, I'll do the rest of the Vinnie Rossi mods. The best sounding unit will become my headphone rig main source, the other one will be my backup.

 Another extra tweak I'm planning to do, today I got a 12"x18" zinc sheet metal from Home Depot, $4.37. It's flexible and easy to cut, seems to be used for gutter repairs. Will use it to make a shield for the power supply area. After so much good sound this won't improve much, but just for fun, the fun continues 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Besides the vynil tiles I had already applied, I recently rope caulked most exposed chassis surfaces inside the player. Will post pics of all this after installing the shield.


----------



## Jose Garcia

Raul, those black caps at the power board are the AC filtering caps and they are indeed soldered in parallel ( Vinnies recipe). The ones I'm talking about are the 11 little caps on the audio board. They are 100uF, 16V . You used the recommended 120uF, 16V caps frpm Panasonic. Michael Percy have the Nichicon FG which range berween 100uF, 25V to 220uF , 16V. I need the specific measures on length and width to determine if I could use the Nichicons. They are supposed to be a little bigger and the space could be a limiting factor.

 Jose.

 PS Have anyone bought the Toshiba SD-4960 CD/SACD machine yet? This unit have me very curious but I'm not going to buy it until I know a bit more about it. We don't have a dealer for this model and I can't buy one to send it back before 30 days trial...I live in PR...


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jose Garcia* 
_The ones I'm talking about are the 11 little caps on the audio board. They are 100uF, 16V . You used the recommended 120uF, 16V caps frpm Panasonic. Michael Percy have the Nichicon FG which range berween 100uF, 25V to 220uF , 16V. I need the specific measures on length and width to determine if I could use the Nichicons. They are supposed to be a little bigger and the space could be a limiting factor._

 

Jose the recommended 120uF 16V capacitors are basically exactly the same size as the stock ones that they replace, see this posting. The bottom picture shows the board with the new 11 capacitors installed, stock ones on the red mat. They are basically the same size as far as height is concerned. Other than that, new ones just a tiny bit thicker than the stock ones.


----------



## CBMC

What do you think would work as a better heat sink adhesive, radio shacks heat sink compound or j-b weld?


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CBMC* 
_What do you think would work as a better heat sink adhesive, radio shacks heat sink compound or j-b weld?_

 

No idea, actually didn't know there was such a thing from Radio Shack. Used JB Weld after Audiosold's recommendation here. When looking at the JB Weld package in the store I remember reading "max temperature 600 degrees F.", and thinking no wonder it's recommended for gluing heat sinks. It does not conduct electricity either, which is great. If you apply to much of it, there won't be any risk of shorting the IC's legs. Cure time is 15 hours, which is not an issue at all for this application. I guess Radio Shack's might have similar properties, and possibly be more expensive. JB Weld was around $4 if I remember well.


----------



## Neville

I was at Lowes and picked up JB Weld - they have variations. i chose the one that "works quick". I actually did not need it for any of the damping I put in but suspect I might need it when I add tiles to the top of the dvd cover. I will def. use it when I add the heatsinks.

 As for Blu-tak, anybody got any cheap alternatives ? I suppose I could caulk the whole thing up but that would limit my upgradability of parts


----------



## Jose Garcia

As for Blu-tak, anybody got any cheap alternatives ?

 Oh yes....Check at your local Wal-Mart , K-Mart or school supplies and ask for "Fun Tack" . This one is yellow but it is very similar ( if not identical) to Blue Tack. It is about $0.99... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I looked at Radio Shacks site and they have a few adhesive products. One of them said that can be used up to 200*F...which I don't know if it is safe for this application.

 Raul , thanks for the information.

 Jose.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_I was at Lowes and picked up JB Weld - they have variations. i chose the one that "works quick"._

 

Not sure but I think the "quick" JB Weld doesn't tolerate temperatures as high as the standard one does. Maybe not an issue though.


----------



## itza2mer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_Not sure but I think the "quick" JB Weld doesn't tolerate temperatures as high as the standard one does. Maybe not an issue though._

 

You're correct. The quick 5 min. JB weld only handles 300 degrees, and the regular 24hr. JB weld handles 600 degrees


----------



## IMEP

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CBMC* 
_What do you think would work as a better heat sink adhesive, radio shacks heat sink compound or j-b weld?_

 

The Radio Shack heat sink compound is not an adhesive. You typically apply a film of the compound to the back of a component that is then bolted to a heat sink.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *IMEP* 
_The Radio Shack heat sink compound is not an adhesive. You typically apply a film of the compound to the back of a component that is then bolted to a heat sink._

 

That would be just a thermoconducting compound then.


----------



## CBMC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *IMEP* 
_The Radio Shack heat sink compound is not an adhesive. You typically apply a film of the compound to the back of a component that is then bolted to a heat sink._

 

ok, thanks. I will stick with the j-b weld then.


----------



## Neville

In fact you on the right course - talking from my computer experience you do want to add some thermal paste to bind the top of the chip to the bottom of the heatsink. You then put JB Weld on each of the corners to keep it pretty well fastened.

 That same paste you talk about is usually used between a computers CPU and the CPUs heatsink.


----------



## CBMC

I already used the jb-weld. Oh well should be fine.


----------



## Jose Garcia

Have anyone here meassured the temperature of those chips after a period of playing time?

 Jose.


----------



## CBMC

never measured the temperature but to the touch they get pretty hot. I don't think that they get hotter than 300 F(temperature that the j-b qwik is rated)


----------



## Jose Garcia

Thanks CBMC.

 Regarding to the Black Gates ..again!!! I read that these caps needs about 500 hours to start sounding their best. With extended hours they get much better. In my case, since I was considering the big power cap from BG ( 150uF , 350V ) this could be a real problem ( althought not in the audio board...maybe someone could add about this!!) since the power caps are supposed to be in continues "on" or "stand-by"...Hum!!! in adition they are $20.50 YIKE$.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Jose.


----------



## CBMC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jose Garcia* 
_Thanks CBMC.

 Regarding to the Black Gates ..again!!! I read that these caps needs about 500 hours to start sounding their best. With extended hours they get much better. In my case, since I was considering the big power cap from BG ( 150uF , 350V ) this could be a real problem ( althought not in the audio board...maybe someone could add about this!!) since the power caps are supposed to be in continues "on" or "stand-by"...Hum!!! in adition they are $20.50 YIKE$.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Jose._

 

I don't quite understand your question. But on a side not if you are willing to spend $20.50 for one capacitor then I don't think it could hurt. Whether or not the difference in sound will be worth the extra price is a matter of personal preferance and your financial position.


----------



## Jose Garcia

Ok, it is that BG's are said to require long periods of break-in. As you know, these Toshibas has a peculiarity, after a nonplaying time, they turn off. Since ( as I read..) these power caps are supposed to be better if in "on" or " stand-by" they will take longer to break-in. Now, they are at the power-board and should effect the sound at bass level ( if I'm not wrong) BUT...do they effect the whole sound as well? In that case, maybe I should forget about buying this one and look for the Panasonic. Right?

 Jose.


----------



## CBMC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jose Garcia* 
_Ok, it is that BG's are said to require long periods of break-in. As you know, these Toshibas has a peculiarity, after a nonplaying time, they turn off. Since ( as I read..) these power caps are supposed to be better if in "on" or " stand-by" they will take longer to break-in. Now, they are at the power-board and should effect the sound at bass level ( if I'm not wrong) BUT...do they effect the whole sound as well? In that case, maybe I should forget about buying this one and look for the Panasonic. Right?

 Jose._

 

the power supply will effect the sound, that is correct. Why not just put a disk in and put it on repeat. The cdplayer shouldn't turn off then. I don't know if that is what you wanted to know?


----------



## Jose Garcia

Wow!!! that will be 3 weeks on continious playing...But, you are right..maybe it pays to have the BG.

 Jose.


----------



## CBMC

I probably wouldn't leave it on for 3 weeks straight. Just put it on repeat before you go to bed.


----------



## rsaavedra

Finished installing the power supply shield. Didn't end up as nice as I wanted, believe it or not I measured the needed hight without taking into account the fact that the player's cover now has the vynil tiles. I eventually had to slant the shield cage sideways so that it could fit. Anyway it worked ok. Here some pictures.

 This is a paper diagram I made to construct the shield. My idea was to make it so that it could be screwed on the power supply using 3 of the same screws used to attach the power supply board to the chassis. The diagram is on top of the Zinc metal sheet I got from Home Depot. Zinc is not too hard, so it's not as difficult to work with as it would be with iron/steel for instance. The paper has little squares with 1/4" long sides, so if you are interested you can read the dimensions counting 1 inch for every 4 squares. But for a nicer job remember to reduce the height of the side walls of the shield, maybe 1" 1/4 instead of 1" 1/2. I intentionally left those openings on the top in order to be able to install the screws. Actually later on I enlarged the openings for even easier access to the screws. Btw there is one big opening missing on the side wall at the bottom, needed for the gray flat cable carrying power from the power supply to the audio board.






 Here's the shield assembled. I used a Dremel tool extensively to cut the several openings, also a pair of strong scissors and just bending back and forth little pieces a few times. Used the dremel tool with a sandpaper disc to cover the shield with that whirlpool finish, nicer than the flat zinc I thought (just having fun with the dremel tool really 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) The small opening in the front is for a black cable that goes from the power supply to the front panel of the player.






 Here's the player before installing the shield. Notice all the rope caulk I've applied to the player. Also, notice the green lead of the power cord now ends right there in the orange cap (removed the connection between chassis and AC ground):






 And here's the player with the shield. Notice the openings are actually larger than in the paper diagram, and also the shield needed some slanting because of the excessive height. It was easier to slant it than to cut all the way around:





 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## Neville

Nice job ! Now all you need is blue lights under your feet and a see thru case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seriously, I have considered it....bringing out the PC mod in me.....

 I had to look at your pic a few times and realise what got my attention. Your 3950 seems to have the PCB on the outer skirts of the chassis where as my 3960 has the PCBs pretty close to the transport.


----------



## Jose Garcia

Neville, you are right. They are a bit different inside.

 Raul, why don't you used "copper sheet" instead. It's easier to work with and it should be better for shielding...just a thought!

 Where did you find those heat sinks? Radio Shack maybe?

 Jose.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jose Garcia* 
_Raul, why don't you used "copper sheet" instead. It's easier to work with and it should be better for shielding...just a thought!_

 

Yes thought about it, but couldn't find it in the store. Could have asked though, lazy me. But also after enought time Copper will turn green because of the oxides. Won't hurt at all I know, but I also thought for shield a zinc sheet metal would work as well. Well I can always upgrade it to Copper later, I didn't really end up totally happy with the slanting.

 About the heat sinks got them from Digikey, check out a previous posting in this thread that has the part #, looks like you haven't seen all of this thread, there are many more pictures.


----------



## Jose Garcia

I will check the sinks...

 How does the cage worked out? Any change in the sound?

 You are becoming a "tweak-monster"... I don't doubt your next project will be to take the power board out of the player "alas external power supply"....

 Jose.


----------



## rsaavedra

I'd rather say I'm becoming addicted to modding 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Whenever I'm in Home Depot or Lowe's I walk around evaluating every piece of hardware for potential usefulness in a mod :-D

 No I haven't compared much, played it afterwards, and sounds the same to me, meaning equally great. It's more for fun that I added the shield, I'm sure it won't hurt though. But the cleaner power must result from the better filtering done by the modded power supply more than from extra shielding. Also, the audio board is not that close to the power supply. The transport is kind of close though, and as Neville points out, more so in the 3960, which might rip more benefits from shielding the power supply.

 Darn I must say, my hands and fingers hurt quite a bit today, Zinc is easier than steel for sure, but tough it still is nonetheless.


----------



## Jose Garcia

QUICK THOUGHT...

 I took another look at the power board and you know what? the only thing that may prevent you from taking the power board out of the Toshiba is that ribbon cable that connects the power board from the audio board. Good news is, the ribbon is long enough ( it makes a circular turn all around the transport) maybe 14-18" ...so you can buy a box from Radio Shack , Parts Express or other, put the power board inside and make the neccesary cuts to the box and player to accomodate the ribbon. Also, the little black cable screwed to the power board..is it a ground? You can deal with it too.

 Another thing, are those ribbons available to buy from a supplier? in that case, it can be bought to a more extended lenght and/or in a round cable with the apropiate ends... The power cord can be connected to an IEC ..Can be added to a more strong box...Oh no!!! now I'm talking like you !!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Jose.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jose Garcia* 
_I took another look at the power board and you know what? the only thing that may prevent you from taking the power board out of the Toshiba is that ribbon cable that connects the power board from the audio board. Good news is, the ribbon is long enough ( it makes a circular turn all around the transport) maybe 14-18" ...so you can buy a box from Radio Shack , Parts Express or other, put the power board inside and make the neccesary cuts to the box and player to accomodate the ribbon. Also, the little black cable screwed to the power board..is it a ground? You can deal with it too.

 Another thing, are those ribbons available to buy from a supplier? in that case, it can be bought to a more extended lenght and/or in a round cable with the apropiate ends... The power cord can be connected to an IEC ..Can be added to a more strong box...Oh no!!! now I'm talking like you !!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sounds like you are a member of the Ray Samuels school of thought 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. According to Tuberoller, Ray is one that never puts an audio board in the same box of the power supply. What you suggest I think is perfectly doable, and I do believe isolating/shielding the power supply in a separate box is always better than not, but I think I'll be happy with just shielding this powersupply inside the player. Will be looking for a sheet of copper tonight though, otherwise I won't sleep 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 PS. Yes the short black cable between ps and front panel must be ground, it is attached to one of the screws that binds the ps board to the chassis.

 PS2. If you do take out the power supply, then the ribbon cable carrying power from ps to player will become your weakest link for EMI/RFI, you should do some form of shielding on that cable in that case.


----------



## Jose Garcia

Aha!!! Te estoy volviendo loco 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ( I'm making you crazy...for our friends here!!!).

 It's true. Look at it. The fact that you can add an IEC to the outboard box give you advantage to try a few power cords. You can add a Cryo IEC or add a Bybee filter to the main AC entrance ( it is more expensive than the machine alone though, but I know a few tweakers that these things doesn't matter to them as long as they keep tweaking). Then, as Ray Samuels said ( never heard about him, sorry) the power circuit will be out of the way of the audio circuit. 

 Give it some thoughts... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Jose.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jose Garcia* 
_Aha!!! Te estoy volviendo loco 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ( I'm making you crazy...for our friends here!!!)._

 

LOL!!!

  Quote:


 It's true. Look at it. The fact that you can add an IEC to the outboard box give you advantage to try a few power cords. You can add a Cryo IEC or add a Bybee filter to the main AC entrance ( it is more expensive than the machine alone though, but I know a few tweakers that these things
 doesn't matter to them as long as they keep tweaking). 
 

No but really I'm not going so far as all that. Notice I already changed the power cord but without using an IEC, didn't want to modify the chasis that way. Bybee filters I've read a few things about, but I don't feel motivated to even try them at all, for me they are close to the cobra venom type of tweak, and they are expensive. "Expensive" and "tweak" don't go together very well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


  Quote:


 Then, as Ray Samuels said ( never heard about him, sorry) the power circuit will be out of the way of the audio circuit. 
 

Ray Samuels is one of the headphone amplifier manufacturer extraordinaires, creator of the Stealth, HR2, XP7, and SR71 headphone amps, among many other audio components:
http://www.raysamuelsaudio.com/index2.html


----------



## IMEP

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CBMC* 
_ok, thanks. I will stick with the j-b weld then._

 

My only concern with JB Weld is that it may act more like a blanket (insulator). Ideally you want the heat sink to directly contact the component's surface to properly transmit the heat. I was thinking a 2 part epoxy called Devcon (sp?) might work better. I believe that a version of Devcon contains metal (aluminum??) that may help transmit the heat more efficiently. I will have to do some more research. It has been a while since I used it and it wasn't for an electronics application.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *IMEP* 
_My only concern with JB Weld is that it may act more like a blanket (insulator)_

 

JB Weld reportedly has good thermal conductivity, check this link:
http://www.overclockers.com/tips169/


----------



## IMEP

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_JB Weld reportedly has good thermal conductivity, check this link:
http://www.overclockers.com/tips169/_

 

Thanks for the link!


----------



## CBMC

Thats good because thats all I used.


----------



## Neville

I think I will still use thermal paste like Artic Silver3 and then JB Weld just the corners. Thanks for the link.


----------



## Jose Garcia

My unit is a Toshiba SD-3960 but they are very similar, so these meassures should apply to both as well.

 Chips:These were aproximations... 

 1- 1 1/4" x 1 1/4"
 2- 7/8" x 7/8"
 3- 3/4" x 1/2"
 4- 3/4" x 1/4"
 5- 3/8" x 3/8"

 Fuse:

 125V , 1.6A Some people report great results by using ceramic fuses.

 PC Board:

 5 1/8" x 3 5/8" x 1 1/4" ( LxWxH)

 Ribbon cable:

 It is about 10" long and has 13 pins ( 12 white , 1 red)

 Capacitors ( electrolitic) for the Power Board:

 Cap V uF
 805 200 68
 809 35 4.7
 821 16 120
 822 10 680
 823 63 15
 824 10 680
 825 open space in the 3960
 827 16 470
 829 16 22
 830 16 22
 831 16 22
 832 16 22

 Capacitors Audio Board 16V , 100uF :

 They are 5mm x 13mm and the board space ( painted circles ) can accomodate a 7mm width , from what I know.

 Hope this help...

 Jose.


----------



## rsaavedra

Home Depot didn't have copper sheets per se. They do have some copper "rolls", one side of the wide copper stripe covered with some paper, $13.99 the roll. Got one, but now when about to use it, I realize the paper doesn't come off, it is stuck to the copper sheet with some kind of very sticky black tar. Only way I could get rid of that would seem burning it, but this would be quite toxic and dangerous. Not sure how this copper from these copper rolls is used actually, maybe it's used for some kind of roofing application, but it is not what could be used to make a heat-resistant copper shield. I think will have to return this roll.

 Anyone knows if the home improvements stores do carry copper metal sheets, or rolls without that sticky paper/tar side?


----------



## drewd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_
 Anyone knows if the home improvements stores do carry copper metal sheets, or rolls without that sticky paper/tar side?_

 

Maybe a hobby store. It may be more like copper foil, though. What you ended up with was copper flashing for things like chimneys or roof valleys.

 You might also check on Ebay. There are always outfits selling all kinds of metal at pretty reasonable prices.

 -Drew


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *drewd* 
_Maybe a hobby store. It may be more like copper foil, though. What you ended up with was copper flashing for things like chimneys or roof valleys._

 

Drew thanks very much for the hobby store recommendation. I returned the copper roll in Home Depot and went to Hobby Lobby, they had a beautiful .016 copper sheet measuring 12"x18", packed neatly in a plastic wrap, very nice. Only bad thing, $14.99 +tax, Zinc is so much cheaper, but anyway, copper is so much better a conductor. Not long ago I posted this link in another thread, check out the difference in conductivity between Cu and Zn, no doubt worth using copper for a power supply shield.

 Not only that, this sheet is thinner than the zinc one I had, only needed the strong pair of scissors to cut everything. So much easier to get it done. 


 Here's the picture of the initial cut-out, I changed it so that the shield would end up having a continuous surface facing the transport and front of the player:






 Once bending it into its final 3D configuration. I soldered the front "wall" to the "roof" of the shield, so that nothing would vibrate. Also, notice I eventually decided to make it with 4 feet, so all power supply board holding screws are used now to hold this shield in place:










 From below, before drilling the holes in the little feet:






 And finally installed, no slanting at all, just the right size and height, and material. Now I can say am completely happy with this power supply shield. I can sleep tonight 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




:





 [edit]Rehosting pics[/edit]


----------



## Neville

Hey look at what I found. Looks like our beloved 3960 is also a great dvd player:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-b...h&articles=119


----------



## Jose Garcia

Neville...thanks for the link. I noticed it, after washing a few DVD's. My other Toshiba ( SD-2108) was reviewed about 5 years ago and it keeps playing like the first day.

 Raul....NICELY DONE....Copper it's easier to deal with. Zzzz.....!!!!!

 Jose.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_Hey look at what I found. Looks like our beloved 3960 is also a great dvd player:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-b...h&articles=119_

 

Thanks for the link Neville! At first when looking at that table I thought the right most column (labeled "Responsiveness") was the final score because of the numbers it has on it. Then realized the "Score" column is to the left of all the colored tiled area. The SD-3960 ended up with the highest rank (73%)!!! This among all those budget players under evaluation, and with interlacing mode in auto and film! Excellent! And consider that's the stock one. Mods on the main board affect mostly the audio circuitry, but the power supply mods should definitely provide cleaner/more stable power for the video circuitry as well, maybe further improving things.


----------



## gastro54

Very nice shield
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 That is one $h*tload of rope caulk


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gastro54* 
_Very nice shield
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 That is one $h*tload of rope caulk 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

LOL well it kind of is, but hey have you seen this, I was actually somewhat reserved in comparison 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Rope caulk is very convenient for those parts where vynil tiles are not practical: the many little uneven parts on the surface of the floor of the player, and also for smaller exposed parts of the transport, and walls of the chassis. The modded Toshiba now is clearly heavier than the stock one, mostly thanks to the rope caulking and vynil tiling of it. And you knock on the player, and it replies with a dead sound, no metal ringing/clanking.


----------



## agile_one

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_And finally installed, no slanting at all, just the right size and height, and material. Now I can say am completely happy with this power supply shield. I can sleep tonight 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




:_

 


 Raul, you are a DIY animal! All your Florida buddies are very proud of you.


----------



## rsaavedra

Thanks Gene! DIY fever got me by storm indeed


----------



## gastro54

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_LOL well it kind of is, but hey have you seen this, I was actually somewhat reserved in comparison 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That's ridiculous.


----------



## CBMC

is there any way to view the track number on the display of this unit?


----------



## Neville

Rsaavedra, i went to HDepot to pick up more tiles and "tak" for my Sony SACD 5 disc carousal player 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and was looking for rope caulk (all your fault!!) but was not able to locate it. Is it sold under another name and which section would you find it ?

 Thanks


----------



## Jose Garcia

Neville.

 Go to www.homedepot.com and search under "caulk" . It will give you around 87 hits and 19 of them are for "tubs" ( which I think is what you are looking for.

 These things are usually at the "bath and plumbing" department.

 Hope you find it.

 Jose.


----------



## CBMC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_Rsaavedra, i went to HDepot to pick up more tiles and "tak" for my Sony SACD 5 disc carousal player 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and was looking for rope caulk (all your fault!!) but was not able to locate it. Is it sold under another name and which section would you find it ?

 Thanks_

 

Did you think to ask any workers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Rope Caulk is usaully used to seal windows. At lowes it can be found with the adhesive wheather stripping. I don't know where in Home Depot it is but I imagine it would be in the same location.


----------



## rsaavedra

Now that you ask, it took me a while to find it. First I went to the part where they sell these hundred different type of "caulks" to be applied with caulking guns, couldn't find any rope caulk there. Asked one of the employees around there, he sent me to the "windows" area, from there they sent me back to the caulk and paint area. The same first guy there then took me to the windows area himself, to prove that he was right showing the exact place where it was, kind of low in the shelf, and in a small area. The ones they had are dark purple square boxes, look for those in the windows area. I'll take a pic of the box tonight and post it here.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CBMC* 
_is there any way to view the track number on the display of this unit?_

 

Yes it is possible, with a button in the remote you switch the display mode from playing time to track number. If I remember well the button is labelled FL Select. Bad thing is, you turn off the unit and it will go back to displaying playing time when you turn it back on.


----------



## Neville

OK been to Lowes and they look at me as though I have gone mad 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Rsaavedra, can you please post a pic of what you bought (rope caulk).
 I have been to both caulk and window/door section and nobody knows what I am talking about. Is it in a tube just like bathroom caulk that requires one of those contraptions to squueze it out ? Heeeeelp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Something interesting here : I don't know if its the week long burnin 24/7 or the new rubber feet i bought at Radioshack today, but the bass has blossomed. I also added these feet and tiles to my 5 dic carousal player - will listen this weekend - it already sucked at Redbook so should be easy to distinguish.


----------



## CBMC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_OK been to Lowes and they look at me as though I have gone mad 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Rsaavedra, can you please post a pic of what you bought (rope caulk).
 I have been to both caulk and window/door section and nobody knows what I am talking about. Is it in a tube just like bathroom caulk that requires one of those contraptions to squueze it out ? Heeeeelp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Something interesting here : I don't know if its the week long burnin 24/7 or the new rubber feet i bought at Radioshack today, but the bass has blossomed. I also added these feet and tiles to my 5 dic carousal player - will listen this weekend - it already sucked at Redbook so should be easy to distinguish._

 

It is with the weatherseal at Lowes. It is actually called Rope Caulk. Just ask the guy who works there where the weatherseal with adhesive back is. It was on the bottom shelf at my lowes and there was only 1 brand. Kind of hides in with the weatherseal.


----------



## rsaavedra

This is it, what's left of it:





 One employee at Lowe's told me they didn't carry rope caulk anymore, they have all those caulk tubes, but no rope caulk, go figure. Home Depot is the store that had this.

 PS. One further comment, tonight I stopped by Home Depot again, the exact section where this rope caulk can be found is "Hardware / Weather proofing".

 [edit]Rehosting pic[/edit]


----------



## CBMC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_[
 One employee at Lowe's told me they didn't carry rope caulk anymore, they have all those caulk tubes, but no rope caulk, go figure. Home Depot is the store that had this.

 PS. One further comment, tonight I stopped by Home Depot again, the exact section where this rope caulk can be found is "Hardware / Weather proofing"._

 

I just got rope caulk at lowes last night. There was plenty of it on the shelf. Maybe certain citys stopped carrying it. Here in St. Louis they still have it.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *CBMC* 
_I just got rope caulk at lowes last night. There was plenty of it on the shelf. Maybe certain citys stopped carrying it. Here in St. Louis they still have it._

 

Makes me wonder the local Lowe's here also might have it, but that only employee I asked probably didn't have the right information. After all, also in Home Depot there were inaccuracies about the whereabouts of their rope caulk, till I finally was able to find it thanks to one out of 3 employees.


----------



## drewd

OK, I was skeptical, but not skeptical enough to take a pass, especially when Amazon has a $20 rebate. Suffice to say that I'm not skeptical anymore. More like stunned.

 I did all of Vinnie's mods, except for the Blackgate caps (I'm waiting for the Parts Connexion order to arrive.) I went ahead and replaced the opamp, too, with OPA627's on a Brown Dog adapter. Kazowie! The OPA627's are so darned synergistic with my Acoustat 1+1 speakers and my Grado SR-325 headphones that I almost couldn't believe it. Both of them are a little bright (some would say shrill), but the 627's really tamed that.

 And detail? I'm hearing more musical and ambient cues than I ever have before. It's really astonishing just how well this player performs, considering that I've put less than $120 into it, including the original purchase - and that's before the rebate!

 Here are some links to a few pictures that may be kind of big...or at least slow.

Power supply mod
 You can see the .47uF caps in parallel with the existing blue caps. The large cap at the top is also a replacement. Also, about a third of the way up, there are four in a row across the board. And the lone cap by itself about halfway up on the right was replaced.

Audio board 
 A bunch of caps were replaced all over the board. There are, I think, four or five more that the Black Gates will also replace. The Brown Dog adapter is edge on in the upper center of the board right in the middle of the forest of caps.

Opamps 
 Huh, that's a big glop of solder. Those tiny little resistors were also a pain to keep away from. I very, very, VERY carefully used some really sharp, really small wire cutters to cut each leg of one side of the existing opamp, then, again very carefully lifted the loose side up and moved it back and forth until the other side fatigued and broke. Then I used the soldering iron and sponge to remove the bits of legs from the pads. If I do it again, I'll take the caps off around the opamp to have a little more room to work.

In its new home 
 At least temporarily. I guess sitting on a subwoofer isn't the best location. But there wasn't room in the rack and I wanted to hear it soooo bad! The end result was extraordinary. I can't wait for the other caps to arrive!

 -Drew


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *drewd* 
_I very, very, VERY carefully used some really sharp, really small wire cutters to cut each leg of one side of the existing opamp, then, again very carefully lifted the loose side up and moved it back and forth until the other side fatigued and broke. Then I used the soldering iron and sponge to remove the bits of legs from the pads. If I do it again, I'll take the caps off around the opamp to have a little more room to work._

 

That sounds like a good way to remove it actually, good idea and nice job Drewd!


----------



## Neville

Nice Drewd, now you just need to get some damping 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I am determined to get some rope caulk/weatherseal by end of this weekend, even if it means I have to visit every HD and Lowes store in GA 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Been thinking of still getting those Auricaps abd a few female rca connectors, soldering it to the output. Any suggestions before I take the plunge ?


----------



## ITZBITZ

Okay, so I got my Emu1212m today, so I thought I would run RMAA against the modified Toshiba SD-3950 just for kicks.

 Enjoy: RMAA Test Results


----------



## rsaavedra

Looks like a great performer, even in spite of that -0.46 dB at 20KHz.

 Itzbitz you just beat John Atkinson of Stereophile in reporting performance measurements for the modded Tosh then!


----------



## ITZBITZ

Sad part is, you don't want to hear the results of my listening tests so far comparing the Emu1212m (unmodded) to the Toshiba...


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ITZBITZ* 
_Sad part is, you don't want to hear the results of my listening tests so far comparing the Emu1212m (unmodded) to the Toshiba..._

 

Of course I do, please share your impressions. Do you have measurements for the Emu1212m itself also?


----------



## drewd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_Nice Drewd, now you just need to get some damping 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am determined to get some rope caulk/weatherseal by end of this weekend, even if it means I have to visit every HD and Lowes store in GA 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Have you considered plumber's putty? It's basically a tub of caulk. It's pretty dense, easily shaped and sticks to just about anything. I just grabbed a tub of it and I'm going to try that. My Home Depot didn't carry rope caulk, but at least the guy I talked to knew what it was.

 -Drew


----------



## Budgie

(sorry for dragging the thread back to page seven, but I was out of town for awhile)- You can use both mods *at the same time*, without problems, for the reasons I mentioned.(thats how I did it) The only difference is the Swenson mod uses a higher quality cap in the signal path (a film cap instead of a black gate) then the Vinnie mod. (actually making the vinnie mod sound better too) Otherwise it is only a question of were you pick off the signal in the chain. If you think that somehow using both is a problem, (even though I indicated why it isn't), all you need to do is unsolder two leads to disconnect the vinnie mod from the swenson mod. I tried it both ways and the difference with the opamp output stage still connected, was not audible, when listening to the swenson mod. 
 Hey, if you don't want to try it, don't, but it is an option for those who have a grasp of the layout of the signal chain, that offers both choices without redoing the whole project, just to try it both ways.


----------



## Neville

OK finally went to another Lowes and lo and behold, they also had no clue what rope caulk was. I then went up an down every isle until i found the box Rsaavedra posted in a pic. Now its fully stocked. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also painted the top cover black. This week I will paint the rest of the chassis black.


----------



## CBMC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_OK finally went to another Lowes and lo and behold, they also had no clue what rope caulk was. I then went up an down every isle until i found the box Rsaavedra posted in a pic. Now its fully stocked. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also painted the top cover black. This week I will paint the rest of the chassis black._

 

It was right next to the weatherstripping wasn't it.


----------



## Jose Garcia

Guys. Could anyone give a quick answer to this question?

 Why and what are the benefits for damping a master clock on a CD player?

 Thanks,

 Jose.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Budgie* 
_I tried it both ways and the difference with the opamp output stage still connected, was not audible, when listening to the swenson mod. Hey, if you don't want to try it, don't, but it is an option for those who have a grasp of the layout of the signal chain_

 

Maybe you are right Budgie, but for sure I don't have a grasp on the circuit layout and the signal path, so I'd rather not try this hybrid version. Next week I'll receive the backup 3950, but in the following weeks I'll be working on building a Dynahi. So I think the Swenson mods on that other player will wait till after that.


----------



## djwkjp

let me ask a question. most of the replies in this thread pertain to the 3950. i, however, have the 3960. so i have a few questions for those of you who have done the mods to the 3960 or anyone who knows the answer. first of all, the 3960 doesnt come with c825. is there any benefit to adding the cap that vinnie recomends or is it not needed? second, the clock on the my model looks quite a bit different from that of the 3950. it is much taller. can the blu-tack stuff be used on this as well? i would imagine so, but i am not certain.
 thank you to anyone who can answer
 dan


----------



## Jose Garcia

Dan...

 Yes, there is no C-825 in the SD-3960.

 I don't really know for sure but if there is no C-825 , don't add the suggested capacitor.

 You can damp the clock with Blue-Tack or any other similar material.

 Jose.

 PS. I still need a response for the clock damping thing so I can explain it on a simple way to a friend.


----------



## Jose Garcia

I got it...

 Jon Risch explains it on his page.

 Thanks anyway.

 Jose.

http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/jitter.htm

http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/cd-sand.htm


----------



## StueyMonster

Hi, I live in the UK and have been checking this thread over the last 2 weeks. I REALLY want to benifit from this player and the mods, but am assuming the power supply is 110V only. How much of a task is it to convert it to 240V?

 I am hoping is a matter of changing the transformer to a UK spec one.

 Any help would be appreciated.

 Stu


----------



## xtreme4099

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StueyMonster* 
_Hi, I live in the UK and have been checking this thread over the last 2 weeks. I REALLY want to benifit from this player and the mods, but am assuming the power supply is 110V only. How much of a task is it to convert it to 240V?

 I am hoping is a matter of changing the transformer to a UK spec one.

 Any help would be appreciated.

 Stu_

 

you could modify its power by adding a power entry module that allows you to switch from 115/220v. 

http://www.alliedelec.com/catalog/pf...ous&FN=390.pdf


----------



## StueyMonster

This is simply a switchable voltage connector used when designing dual voltage equipment, it does nothing to change the voltage of a piece of equipment only designed for one voltage.

 Anyone else offer some helpful info on coverting the Toshiba 3950 to 240V without introducting noise into the design?


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StueyMonster* 
_This is simply a switchable voltage connector used when designing dual voltage equipment, it does nothing to change the voltage of a piece of equipment only designed for one voltage.

 Anyone else offer some helpful info on coverting the Toshiba 3950 to 240V without introducting noise into the design?_

 

How about just using one of these international voltage converters? In principle you could do the power supply mods as they have been specified online, so the player would remain "americanized". You just plug it in to this universal converter, and the converter to your European power outlet. It's not the cleanest scheme, but it should work fine.


----------



## philodox

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_Next week I'll receive the backup 3950, but in the following weeks I'll be working on building a Dynahi._

 

Isnt the Dynahi an electrostatic headphone amp? Did you get some electrostats?


----------



## gastro54

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *philodox* 
_Isnt the Dynahi an electrostatic headphone amp? Did you get some electrostats?_

 

Not electrostatic.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *philodox* 
_Isnt the Dynahi an electrostatic headphone amp? Did you get some electrostats?_

 

No, the Dynahi is for dynamic headphones, check out the 1st post in the Dynahi boards groupbuy thread, has many links to pictures, info, and files.

 Gilmore's amp for electrostatic would be the Blue Hawai.


----------



## Jose Garcia

Guys! Is the JB Weld used for gluing the heat sinks to the chips, the same one sold at WesternAuto and PepBoys? What should I look for? 

 Jose.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jose Garcia* 
_Guys! Is the JB Weld used for gluing the heat sinks to the chips, the same one sold at WesternAuto and PepBoys? What should I look for?_

 

Yes that's the one, it's very common in car repair applications because of its strength and high temperature tolerance. Check prices, in Home Depot I got it for around $4.00


----------



## Jose Garcia

Gracias Raul. my local WesternAuto have it at a bit more, just cents. I found a few nice heat sinks at E-Bay which I bidded for. 

 :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 All you know, that John Atkinson is reviewing a Toshiba SD-3950/60 for the next issue. The unit is stock, and like you, we know this unit is ok but much better modified. I talked to a friend who offers the unit with mods at a buy/sell site. He asked JA if he would accept a modified unit for comparisons but, because of Stereophiles rules, he declined. Here are some obvious implications from both parts...economic, promotional and whatever more...

 The thing is, it would it be great if Stereophile could test both units instead.Maybe on another time and place....

 :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

 Toshiba SD-4960 SACD/DVD-A/DVD/CD ++++

 This person, have one unit and ( I'm not associated with him just in case!!!) after asking him about the unit, this was what he said:

 "This is a well laid-out machine,, + there are some similarities to the 3950/60.

 The stock player is performing very well,, better than the stock 3950 +3960 ... I have not listened to the sacd playback yet.

 The resolution for redbook cd playback is already greater,, the sacd (if nothing else) will be a bonus."

 I know he is selling his services but I (and a few friends down here in PR ) are looking with interest this unit after Toshiba makes the announcements. JandR have them on pre-order and after they received them, the stock sold out after a few days ( maybe hours).

 For those interested in SACD , at $149.99 , and performing as the 3950/60...it should has to be a "candy"...specially after modifications.

 Jose.


----------



## drewd

Amazon.com claims to have them in stock and shipping within 24 hours. $149.99.

 -Drew


----------



## Neville

So could the 4960 be the next "great mod" ?

 Pulling the 3960 chassis apart for painting it black and then i asked myself "why do i have so many ferrites ? 2 per power cord and 2 for each left and right channel!!"

 Is there any benefit putting ferrites on the power cord close to the connector and also at the actual component chassis or will one just do ?
 Would the same be for interconnects ?

 Thanks


----------



## rsaavedra

Europeans, FYI the August 2004 WhatHiFi magazine has a budget DVD player face off supertest, in which they included a so called *Toshiba SD-240SE*. That one looks extremely similar if not identical to the American 3950/60 version. If you are still interested in those models and not the upcoming universals, I think that's the European version. The power supply must be different though, not sure what exact values for the ps caps you should use if you would mod it.

 Incidentally, that Tosh was WhatHiFi's supertest winner.


----------



## rsaavedra

Couple of days ago I received from Amazon my second 3950, to be Swenson modded some time in the future, or to just keep as spare parts backup for my current one maybe. Btw amazon now has these players for $58.95, without the $20 rebate which ended July/20 though:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...onics&n=507846

 I emailed them and since my purchase was very recent, they will honor this new price, reimbursing $11.04 from my original $69.99 price. This plus the fact that my purchase qualifies for the rebate gives me a final price of just $38.95 !!!


----------



## drewd

Talk about good sound on the cheap! I'm still waiting for the Blackgates from PC to arrive, but as it sits, with all the other Vinnie mods, I really, really, really like it!

 By the way, I never was able to find rope caulk, but I used plumber's putty for dampening and it works pretty darn well. I glopped some over the clock crystal and smeared a pretty good amount around the case. It's mechanically pretty dead now. I can thump on it with my knuckles and hear just a dull thud.

 -Drew


----------



## ITZBITZ

Since there is room in the case, I'm thinking of replacing the black gates with some nice linear polypropelene caps of around 0.33uF. Since my amplifier has a 50K input impedence, this should not result in any rolloff from what I understand.


----------



## StueyMonster

Thanks for the heads-up on the What Hi-Fi shootout. I had a read of the Toshiba SD-240SE (what looks like the 3950 UK equivilent) review and the only begative thing in the review was the statement "Stereo performance was average".

 It may look the same, but I'm betting it's quite different inside. If it wasn't for this statement I would order one. I have a 3950 winging it's way accross the pont as we speak. I'll mod the power supply or plug it into a converter (I've already consulted with Vinnie about this).

 I also had a friend make this statement "I'm sure it will be either dual wound primary transformer or switch mode (poss) digital power supply which will just require a dip switch selection for native voltage, both dead easy". Any comments?

 I'll keep you all posted as to how it goes.

 Stu


----------



## Neville

Has anybody thought or upgraded the TI 1751 (24bit 192khz DAC) ??

 I am tempted if I can find a better replacement.

 Are there any good chassis out there but at an affordable price ?


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_Has anybody thought or upgraded the TI 1751 (24bit 192khz DAC) ??_

 

The opamp was a lot of trouble already for me (as if I haven't said it enough 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




), even though it has more spaced, thicker legs compared to those in the DAC. The DAC has 16 legs, exactly twice the # of legs in the opamp, and both chips are the same size!!! See second pic. in this posting, the DAC (chip on the left) also has SMD components nearby. No way I would dare attempt to change that DAC. Also, I don't feel any need to. The modded player sounds really great already.


----------



## hubcaps

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_Has anybody thought or upgraded the TI 1751 (24bit 192khz DAC) ??

 I am tempted if I can find a better replacement.

 Are there any good chassis out there but at an affordable price ?_

 


 Isn't that dac a large part of the reason why the toshiba sounds good? I think it would be better to leave it in and try building a separate external dac, like one of the non oversampling ones. I'd probably take me about the same time to build one of those as it would for me to replace the chip. SMD would be a pain to work on, at least for me.


----------



## randytsuch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StueyMonster* 
_Thanks for the heads-up on the What Hi-Fi shootout. I had a read of the Toshiba SD-240SE (what looks like the 3950 UK equivilent) review and the only begative thing in the review was the statement "Stereo performance was average".

 It may look the same, but I'm betting it's quite different inside. If it wasn't for this statement I would order one. I have a 3950 winging it's way accross the pont as we speak. I'll mod the power supply or plug it into a converter (I've already consulted with Vinnie about this).

 Stu_

 

Did I sell it to you?

 Randy


----------



## pburke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_Couple of days ago I received from Amazon my second 3950, to be SwensonI emailed them and since my purchase was very recent, they will honor this new price, reimbursing $11.04 from my original $69.99 price. This plus the fact that my purchase qualifies for the rebate gives me a final price of just $38.95 !!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I better get that email out - my purchase was just 2 weeks ago and I did get the rebate form just in time. 11 bucks are 11 bucks - buys me another Auricap somewhere in the mod...


 anyway - does anyone know what caps on the signal board I need to mod if I am not interested in the analog out of the 3950? I'm actually modding it as a dedicated transport, custom case, etc. It should only be caps near the SPDIF circuitry and feeding some of the chips on the board. I guess the signal still goes through much of the bigger chips on the board (like for DRC and other features), so those will need better power and bypass caps, cooling, etc.



 Peter


----------



## drewd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Neville* 
_So could the 4960 be the next "great mod" ?_

 

It doesn't look like it. The 4960 is a rebadged Samsung unit with a few less output options and everything on a single board. The Audio Asylum guys are saying that it isn't in the budget performance class of the 2950/2960.

 But if you can get your hands on a Pioneer DV-563A, it's supposed to be extremely mod-able and available for somewhere around $100.

 -Drew


----------



## StueyMonster

Yes Randy, it arrived today. Superb packing by-the-way!






 I already have the Browndog, Opamps, all the caps, silver solder, ceramic fuses and Cardas RCA's here, so in a few days, I'll get my soldering iron out.

 I wanted to do all of the mods done by Rsaavedra all in one go, as he seems more than happy with his player. I will make up a custom power cable, not sure of the config for that yet.

 I'll take some pics and let you all know how it sounds.






 Stu


----------



## rsaavedra

Anyone knows what's an online store with good prices to get Auricap 3.3uF - 200v capacitors from in the US? Got my backup 3950 and will do the Vinnie power supply + Swenson mods on this one.


----------



## drewd

Just in case anybody's interested (not hijacking the thead - no, really!)...

 I picked up a Pioneer DV-563 after reading over on DIYAudio about the Vinnie mods, I tried them out for myself.

 The only things that I did differently was to not replace C771 (I think that's the one) because it was surface mount, and instead of using Black Gate electrolytics on C245 and C246, I used Wima .47uF polypropylene film caps, and changed R241 and R246 to 220K. I also swapped the el-cheapo opamp for an OPA-2227. Unfortunately, the stereo opamp lives on the bottom of the circuit board, so I couldn't use a Brown Dog adapter with OPA-627s.

 The change in sound was not as dramatic as with the 3950, but it is definitely a very big improvement over the original DV-563. It was already a reasonably capable performer (especially for under $100). What changed was significantly more accuracy and "punch" in dynamic bass events and a sort of "clearing up" of mid-range ambiance cues. It's especially apparent in live recordings, especially of small club type environments.

 One album that I noticed a big difference with was the Tubular Bells SACD. I was actually startled a few times by the level of detail that the player resolved.

 CD performance is also improved, with the same sort of gains as with SACD. I have not listened to any DVD-A's (don't own any) and I haven't watched any movies with it. The mods that I did were all devoted to two channel performance. I'll probably yank the multichannel stuff out as Vinnie recommended.

 Once nice thing about this unit is that all of the digital stuff is on a separate board. There are three boards - power supply, digital and analog. And the transport seems to be pretty good, too. Also, when listening to the stereo outputs, the SACD signal is not converted to PCM before the DAC. It's DSD all the way.

 Total investment - $80 for the DV-563, about $30 in parts and a couple of hours of soldering. I think that it's well worth it for the sound.

 Look on Ebay. Although it's discontinued, Pioneer sells refurbished DV-563s for under $100.

 -Drew


----------



## StueyMonster

My Toshiba 3950 has a noise coming from the transport. It sounds very mych like a dripping tap/ticking noise and varies with the CD speed. I have tried it with many CD's and it is always the same. I have a feeling it could be something on the belt. It repeats less often that 1 rotation of the CD, so that points me to somewhere lower geared.

 Has anyone else had problems with a noisy transport? I've left it on repeat while I'm at work, hoping that it willl be gone by the time I get home.

 Input will be warmly recieved.


----------



## Neville

Can't say that mine makes a ticking sound or any for that matter. But I can hear it spin up or down. Did this appear after your mod ?


----------



## drewd

Yes, mine made the same noise. Pop the top and look at the white disk on top of the transport. Carefully wipe it off and see if that solves the problem. Mine had a little bit of crud on it that was ticking against the metal tab.

 -Drew


----------



## gastro54

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_Anyone knows what's an online store with good prices to get Auricap 3.3uF - 200v capacitors from in the US? Got my backup 3950 and will do the Vinnie power supply + Swenson mods on this one._

 


 Try percyaudio.com maybe?


----------



## StueyMonster

I had tried loads of CD's but not a DVD. It makes the noise on all CD's, but not any DVD's! Maybe they spin at a different speed or something?

 Tried cleaning the white disc, and was hopeful, but still the same.

 Very annoying. I've done PS upgrade, and am just about to do the Audio board now. Not sure it was there before PS upgrade, probably.

 Taken the transport out and there isn't even a belt to clean, it's direct off the motor. Lets hope it goes with time, as it's all I can hear (now I know it's there)


----------



## pit_head

I posted on the Source part of the board but think here may be better.

 Does anyone know if the mod's to the Unit will help get rid of a clipping problem I seem to be having with the stock unit? It's in one channel, in the mid-range - when the music changes volume on the disc (high attack rate?) the sound starts to break up - when I swapped the input on my amp, the problem changed channels too, so I won't blame my CD3000 or BadaPH1 for this. Hi's are fabulous, lo's good too. I wanted to mod the unit in the first place, but am concerned that the problem will not go away with the upgrades.

 Any help/input is appreciated.

 Thanks and happy listening


----------



## StueyMonster

All mods done, apart from fitting the Cardas RCA's. Ticking sound still coming from the transport, but should be dulled by the case being put back on. Will get some Dynamat sound deadening material this weekend. I'll keep you posted.

 Stu


----------



## Voodoochile

Okay, so I could not resist this project anymore- thanks a lot guys. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








 I picked up a 3960 the other day, as the 3950 was not in the house. What a piece of crap it is structurally! But hey, it was $60, and the sound was pretty decent right from the box. It's just startling though... just when you think things cannot be cheapened any further, someone comes along and lowers the bar again. Incredible. I would think that it would cost more to mold the plastic chassis, stamp and fold the metal shielding, assemble the shielding with the chassis- than it would to just stamp and fold a metal chassis (like the 3950), but apparently not. That said, it works, and on the shelf, you don't know what it's made of by looking at it. It is not ugly by any means.

 So, I listened for a short while, then tore into it. I was planning initially to do the Vinnie PSU mods, plus the bypass caps arpound the DAC, then just cut to the chase with the Swenson mods rather than dick around with the op-amp and browndog. In the spirit of cheapness inspired by the purchase price, I wanted to try and make a dent in my parts bin whenever possible. I got started at 9:45pm... next thing you know it's 2:30 in the morning. Gah. I got a little carried away, but basically finished most of the Vinnie mods that night. Last night I reassembled it and took a listen. More on the listening later.

 Somehow, I ended up being able to replace all but two caps on the PSU board. I only lacked the 4.7uf/35v (iirc) and the 200v filter cap. I have ordered those parts. On the other board, I ended up replacing virtually *all* the caps, not just the Vinnie Rossi-suggested ones- with exception of the fat one near the digital out, and the small bank near the s-video out region. Also, I did not have the right non-polar Blackgates on hand for the three at the op-amp section, but I did have some polarized blackgates that were suitable replacements, still a significant step from the generic polarized caps that I removed. You would think that even for $60 it would come with something better than generic, at least in these few spots, but I guess the target market doesn't care or notice.

 It is interesting to say the least. I had several Panasonic FCs of the right size for the PSU board, and a couple for the main board. Then there are a lot of nichicon muse KZ caps, some muse fine gold caps, some cerafines, and some black gates. A motley assortment, but all good, and matched where appropriate. I just kept looking, and if I had the cap, I replaced it. What a surprise.

 Since I did not have a 200v cap for the filter (and have one coming now), I thought that a small film bypass would help out anyway. I may remove them when the Panasonic cap arrives. I removed the stock 68uF cap, and added a pair of 250v/0.01uF film caps, then reinserted the main cap. So, it's jacked up on tiny wima blocks. Funny, it looks like a water heater on thin cement blocks. Another thing I did was to bypass the bridge. I noticed that the rectifiers were generic 1n400x types. Rather than install soft-recovery diodes, I just added some small film bypass caps.

 The Swenson mods I held off doing after all, since I did not have the right value caps on hand (I have some suitable value auricaps, but not the 300pF micas). So, since I lacked all the stuff for the Swenson mods (at this time), I went ahead and lifted the op-amp from the board. Again, in the interest of keeping it simple and using what was available, I looked through my bug box to see what was the nicest soic dual-channel op amp I had on hand. Turned out to be an AD8620. Normally, this is just too bright for my taste, but I didn't really want to solder down the opa2227 I also had. So that's about it.

 Night two: reassemble, test, add damping and listen.
 Everything went back together fine. The ribbon cable from the PSU is cheezy. I would suggest not disconnecting it at all- and working on the boards while still connected to each other. There is enough length that this would not be too annoying. All worked fine, so that was cool. I had some odd and end dynamat on hand, so I added patches to the frame of the transport wherever reasonable. Then added some to the chassis floor, the cover, a few other chassis areas. Also I placed a small strip around the clock, around the transformer frame, and on the filter's frame. Also added a patch to the sides of two different cap pairs that were essentially touching each other. Finally, I did also note how hot the processor gets (as mentioned earlier in this thread), so I found a heatsink from an old videocard. Removed the tiny fan, filed one corner to clear a cap, and glued it on. Closed it all up.

 The sound improvement really is quite remarkable. Even though a lot was done to this player, it is startling how good it sounds. They say you can't polish a turd, but you sort of can! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There is a huge amount of clean detail, and it is also quite musical and enjoyable. I then compared it to the Nad 541, and also the superdac (2496). I listened through the 650s.

 For this, I used my meta brick amp, since this has a pair of toggle-switched inputs on it. This is a great meta42, which is why I still have it and enjoy it. It does not have the virtual groound circuit in it, but is powered with a dual voltage PSU. Actually, it has a pair of PSUs in it, which was another use of too much stuff I had on hand to try and get extra-tight regulation. It's not academic at all, obviously, but it is basically a Sheldon Stokes type of PSU supplying +/- 18 volts, then this feeds a PS1, which brings that down to +/- 15 volts. It's totally impractical, and probably breaks many design rules, but it works very well and sounds great, so I don't care. The Meta had four EL2002 buffers per channel, and has AD744s up front, driving the buffers from their compensaton pins, no signal caps, plus an alps blue. This is all housed in a brick-shaped external SCSI drive chassis, with the PSUs residing on the lower deck, below a seperate steel plate designed to hold the drive above, originally. The amp board is now above the plate with the PSUs downstairs. Nice amp, and I use it a lot for a/b testing.

 As for the results, I am not ready to ditch my Nad, but this player was remarkably close to it now. Kind of scary. I realize that the Nad and the superdac are both 24/96, whereas the 3960 is a 24/192 machine, but of course there is a lot more to the process than just the dac. The Nad was a little warmer and more enjoyable to me, while the 3960 was a little bit too sharp for my taste. It was not sibilant, however, just a little too hard. The Nad came fitted with OPA2604s, incidentally- the same chips that Vinnie Rossi suggests for his mods. I wonder how similar if the AD8620 was swapped for these chips on the browndog? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The 3960's soundstage was similar to the Nad, and the positioning was very comfortable. I felt like I was near the stage, but not on it. When I toggled between the 3960's analog stage and the output from the superdac, I noticed this also. The superdac is interesting, as it is somewhere between the Nad and the 3960- it is super-detailed, but not granular or overly hard. Cleaner than the 3960, not as warm and involving as the Nad. But the placement with the dac is different from both the Nad and the 3960's analog section. You are practically onstage with the superdac, with large separation. It does sound very nice, but it is not as laid back to listen to since it appears that you are front and center. So, the 3960 is nicer in that respect, I feel.

 I think if I either swapped the op-amp out for the BB piece, or (more likely for me) did the Swenson mod, it would improve further. The AD8620, as nice as it is, just is too analytical for this player, I think. I have to reiterate that I was not even trying to go all-out with this project, but rather was just curious. I will say I am impressed. This little box gives the Nad 541 a good run, and of course when you compare the cost, there is no contest at all. If you are on a budget, buy this player! Even if I figured in my time and the parts, it is still about half the cost of the Nad. Amazing. I did not want to go nuts with this since I already have a good player, and also because the interface on the 3960 is very spartan. But it sounds very very nice, which is hard to believe at the price point. What an excellent find.

 Later on I will post a new thread with some pics of the inside of the Nad. Once you pull the hood, it is clear what you are paying extra for. There are three seperate power supplies, a huge toroidal transformer, and the board is laid out more like a handmade product rather than like a computer motherboard. The op-amps are dip-8, single-channel chips. The clock crystal is already damped from the factory, and the capacitors are Muse KZ and Muse Fine Gold throughout, including the power supplies. And of course the chassis is fairly heavy steel. I have been planning on tweaking this player a bit, first adding sockets for the op-amps, and also further upgrading the power supply caps. There is room for this, and it's even silkscreened for this. The bridges are already bypassed, which is a nice touch. Anyway, my point is that although the PSU in the 3960 is entirely different (and cheap) as compared, the fact that you can make some relatively minor mods and end up with a player that at least sounds like it's playing in the same league is startling.

 More to follow when I get the larger PSU cap and other small PSU cap installed, and also the Swenson mod. Should be very interesting indeed.


----------



## rsaavedra

Voodoochile not just the NAD, post pics of your modded Tosh too!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm looking forward to applying the Vinnie/Swenson mods on my backup player, but haven't yet ordered the parts.


----------



## Neville

Yeah I wanna see pics of both but more importantly the Tosh.

 Raul, any progress on the caps yet ? I'm waiting for you to lead the way


----------



## Voodoochile

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_Voodoochile not just the NAD, post pics of your modded Tosh too!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I'm looking forward to applying the Vinnie/Swenson mods on my backup player, but haven't yet ordered the parts._

 

I doubt that the Terms of Use will allow me to post pics of my Tushi(ba).

 I'll receive my caps tomorrow, so when I crack it open again I'll take one before and after the PSU cap, and another pair of the main board region- before and after I do the Swensolator mod to it.

 Also- my apologies for such a long post up there... I just now noticed how blah-blah lengthy it blah-blah is.


----------



## StueyMonster

If I'm using the optical out on my Toshiba 3950 for testing purposes...will I still be getting the benifits of all the mods?

 The reason I'm asking, is it still sounds about the same as my Pioneer DV-656A

 Maybe this is a silly question?

 Thanks

 Stu


----------



## Voodoochile

PSU angle1
 Cerafine/MuseKZ/Panasonic FC





 PSU angle2, showing stock cap on bypasses (since replaced with a 220uF/200v Panasonic with one polypropylene bypass). The larger cap is the replacement one, for comparison only.
 You can also see the dynamat strips on the tranny and choke frames.





 DAC side of unit, with retro-type vidcard sink.
 All caps but the group in the upper-right corner were replaced.
 Muse FG/Pana FC/Muse KZ/Cerafine/BlackGate PK (will be soon disconnected or removed for full Swenson mod)





 AD8620 closeup





 Swenson mod inside angle, clock crystal wrapped in dynamat





 Swenson from outside back





 By contrast, the output stage from the Nad.

 More tonight. Also added the ceramic fuse in the Tushi.


----------



## ITZBITZ

"Welcome to the Party Pal!" - John McClain

 Glad to see you hopped on board. What are your thoughts on the Vinnie vs. Swenson mod debate? I've been thinking about bypassing my HDOS (high-dollar output stage) and going with a couple of those caps myself, just curious what your findings have been thus far.

 You make me laugh, Voodoo "I've got oodles of caps on-hand" chile.


----------



## Voodoochile

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ITZBITZ* 
_What are your thoughts on the Vinnie vs. Swenson mod debate? I've been thinking about bypassing my HDOS (high-dollar output stage) and going with a couple of those caps myself, just curious what your findings have been thus far._

 

Whelp, I finished dubbing around with Swenson stuff at about 2:15 am, so I shut down for the night. Figured if I started listenig at that point, the sun would come up on me.

 Tonight I hope to spend some time with it though. Funny about your HDOS... the two OPAs and the adapter literally would run more than half the cost of the player! Unbelievable, isn't it? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 As for Swenson vs. Vinnie, I think you still should do the PSU work at minimum, and many of the power caps on the other board- even with Swenson. Probably only skip the (I think) 910,912,902 and maybe the two bipolars, plus the op-amps if you were going to do Swenson's. Maybe I'll know more tonight. It's been fun though.

 I bought my Sony NS500v for modding, and then decided not to go it at the time. Then I got the Pioneer intending to mod, and have not. This one was so cheap to start though, it was easy to dive in! I think I will do light mods on the Nad next. Op-amp rolling an a CDP is appealing to me.


----------



## rsaavedra

Wow you did change quite a few caps Voodoo!! Looks so different. Also, at first I was trying to understand how you would have changed so drastically the placement of the board in the chassis, but yours is a 3960, no wonder I was a bit lost. Cool blue color in the Nad's board.


----------



## ITZBITZ

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Voodoochile* 
_Funny about your HDOS... the two OPAs and the adapter literally would run more than half the cost of the player! Unbelievable, isn't it? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

$34 for the op-amps
 $7 for the adapter
 $10 in black gates (two on each side)
 = $51

 Price paid for the 3650? $43.99 after $20 rebate and price adjustment from Amazon.

 Bang for the buck when plugged into a $750 amplifier and $250 headphones? Uhm, wow.


----------



## Voodoochile

That's crazy, Chris! Somebody is making a nickel a day to build these things.
 Even before Swenson mod, the sound is very nice. When you remind yourself that the base machine is so cheap, it sounds even better! 

 Raul- it is different looking, isn't it? It works though. Even with removing the caps, it is crowded around the op-amp. Partly why I posted the Nad pic for comparo. Plenty of room for my fingers to get in there, too.


----------



## Voodoochile

Okay, just sat down to listen to this thing with the Swenson mods finally. It was too late this morning to start in on that.

 In a word, _wow._ What a difference. Bear in mind that I installed the AD8620 rather than the OPA2604s, so my mod was not true to the Vinnie Rossi mods. FWIW, the Nad has a pair of 2604s in it, which another player I have. I know that the specs on the AD8620 are outstanding, but it always seems a little too bright or granular for me. In this application, it certainly was that way with my Senns. Can't imagine with Grados! Anyway my point is that the chip is no slouch at all.

 The Vinnie Rossi mods definitely helped quiet down the machine, the background is richer and darker, offering a nice contrast to the music. It did seem a little too brilliant for my taste still, as compared to the Nad, or as compared to the 3960 playing through my outboard DAC. So, my next move was to go with Swenson mods. I wanted to try it out anyway, since this is a big experiment essentially. I used a pair of 0.47 polypro caps (ICW Clarity Caps) which are supposed to be a proper fit for a 50k input impedance. These caps are not $10 or $20 apiece, but they are pretty nice, a good upgrade from Panasonic film and foil caps. The new outputs are bypassed with 300pF silver mica caps, again per Swenson.

 Initially, I left the two electrolytics in place on the oputput stage, so I could a/b easier, as Wodgy mentioned. This did not work out in this case after all. Maybe there is some other difference between the 3960 and the 3950 (?) but there was only a *very* faint sound. So I removed the board again and lifted the other side of the L and R caps (so I did not have to resolder the leads to the new output caps), and tried it again.

 (This is the part where I said _wow._ )

 What a difference. The detail is just as clean and clear as can be, but it is not overbearing at all now. I would not really quite call it sibilant before, but the "S-es" are not as profound as they were before. It is much more neutral, with a pretty nice presentation overall. No dips or recesses were noted in my little audition. I listened to AKUS 'New Favorite' of course- it seems to be my reference these days, and also Lucinda Williams' 'World Without Tears', and David Gray's 'White Ladder'.
 At this moment, I like this player better than the Nad. It kills me to say that, and I plan to try and rectify this asap.

 One final mod before I closed it up- I replaced the green power LED with my pseudo-trademark blue-violet one. Now it does not match the display, so it's non-conformal. I've head rumours that a blue power led helps tame some imbalances in the household, but I can't confirm that myself.

 So there is basically no groundbreaking news here- the consensus was already to "buy this player if you are on a budget", and I would agree. It smokes up all the sub-$200 stuff I have heard... right out of the box. After performing the mods, it is an entirely different beast, and who really knows how nice it is. The nicest machine under my roof is the modest but very nice Nad, and this is presently an upgrade over that. I am not sure if I could believe the hype I have read saying it is better than "my XYZ $2500 CDP". If that is true, then you paid too much! Beating a $400-500 machine is more probable and possible, maybe upwards of a big bill. But $2500??? I dunno about that one!

 I do suggest that if you are going to do this, do not decide between the Rossi or Swenson mods. Do them both. You could probably skip most of the Rossi mods to the DAC board, and definitely could skip the op-amp upgrade and it's associated bypass caps. Considering that these few parts can easily cost $50 or more (especially with the Blackgates), even Hovlands or other nice caps for the Swenson mods would be less money.
 I would do the small caps near the DAC board's ribbon power cable, however, as these are right at the DAC chip. Then do all the caps on the PSU, and then the Swenson mod. I also added film bypasses to the rectifiers, and added a little polypropylene bypass to the now-large filter cap (it went from 68uF to 220uf).

 Excellent project, and it can be done in a couple evenings. Net an excellent little machine that ought to fare well with machines you might not even find affordable.


----------



## philodox

after all the work that rsaavedra and voodochille and everyone else have put into doing these mods and everything that they have learned, we should make a 'head-fi mod' writeup that will give an idea of suggested mods for less technically apt people... or maybe I shouldnt say 'we'... lol, I'll be no help with it...


----------



## xtreme4099

voodoo have you replaced the power cable ...i put an iec connector ...the quail cable pc sounds very nice with it, ive also added an ad8620 cascoded with some NPN transistors ala PPL recommendation, ive got some BD adapters when i get money im gonna have to get some LT1028s to mount. Well headfi loves the DiY community ... i remember posting about the vinnie swenson mods back on my thread on the tosh in mid-april( http://www5.head-fi.org/forums/showt...mazing+Redbook ), i have the dvda version the SD4900, i wonder how the 4960 would fair ...


----------



## soupy

Got my some of the parts for the Vinnie mods today. Did all of the power supply mods and all the caps on the audio board except for the black gates and opamp (Digi-key was out of the 2604 and I am way too cheap to spend the amount needed for the browndog based mod). This was my first real DIY audio gear mod and wow it was easy and worth it. Burning the caps in right now and even with initial impressions I'm liking what I'm hearing. I'm thinking of doing the Swenson mods now, but any of you guys got recommendations for parts to use? His website covering it was fairly open-ended to what to use and where to buy...of course it'd be muuch nicer to get everything from one vendor 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. 
 btw, getting those noise filter caps in at the same time with the stock caps was annoying, had to dremel both legs too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. Anyway, this is pretty fun, i wanna build a ppa now


----------



## soupy

So i was looking around at the swenson mod, and one thing confuses me in the instructions...when/where do you attach the 0.47uf (or whatever setting you need for your preamp) in this? I think I'm blind or something, but it only tells you to take out two caps, attach the twisted wires on the appropriate terminals, then it goes onto the 300pf caps on the RCA jacks. I'm confused here.

 Also, I was shopping around for Auricaps, found 0.47uF ones for 9bux each, but looking at my amp's input impedence, it's at 100Kohm, should I go with something higher like 0.68uF or would 0.47uF be fine? I can't seem to find 300pF caps easily either, can some one guide me to some


----------



## SportaJoe

My 3960 started to get a little crackly distortion in the right channel 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So i figured i would try the Swenson mod to see if bypassing the output stage would help. Well guess what. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 No more distortion. I grabbed parts from radio shack and used cat5 wire. Well now that i know it fixed it time to order those higher quality parts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I,ve not touched a soldering iron in years and it went surprisingly well. Thanks to all you guys for this thread and all the info. Sounds pretty good too. Ive only been listening for about a half hour. So far i seem to like it a bit better than stock. This 1.0uf Radio shack cap hasnt even broke in yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . If i order the Auricaps whats the right size for a stock pimeta. 

 Soupy, The the end of your wire goes to one end of the .47 cap and the other end of the cap goes to the center post on your rca. The 300 pf runs between the center post on your rca to the outer post on your rca. and of course the other wire to the outer post also. hope that makes sense. I cant really answer your other questions but will also await their answer.


----------



## BobM

I've started modding the Toshiba 4960 (commonly known as the Samsung 841 also). Here's a link to the thread I started at AudioCircle.com:

http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/v...ic.php?t=12613

 Once I get a bit further along I will probably launch a separate thread here pointing to that thread, unless people here want me to duplicate my posts on this forum as well. I'm on vacation next week (getting out of the NY Cith blast zone) so won't begin those mods till I return. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Enjoy,
 Bob


----------



## superjohnny

Question:
 I'm not really wanting to order the BlackGates from Canada. Would it hurt me too terribly much to find a suitable Panasonic replacement like P1101-ND or P1142-ND? I'll order some BG's next time I get an itch to build a new amp, but until then I'd like to use something I can get from digikey.

 Thanks!


----------



## Greg Erskine

Has anyone sourced the 3950/60 (or equivalent) in Australia. I've looked at various outlets in Australia and can't find any Toshiba DVD products.


----------



## drewd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *superjohnny* 
_Question:
 I'm not really wanting to order the BlackGates from Canada. Would it hurt me too terribly much to find a suitable Panasonic replacement like P1101-ND or P1142-ND? I'll order some BG's next time I get an itch to build a new amp, but until then I'd like to use something I can get from digikey._

 

I think that the Panasonics would probably be just fine. I did Vinnie's mods in my Pioneer DV-563a with Panasonic FC caps instead of Black Gates and it sounds really, really good. I did my 3950 with Black Gates and it sounded really, really good, too, but I have to wonder how much of that was the Black Gates themselves and how much was just having better caps.

 One thing that I did differently with the Pioneer was to use high quality film caps for the output coupling caps. If you're doing the Swenson mod on the 3950, you're already doing that, but if not, consider that instead of BG's.

 -Drew


----------



## superjohnny

Which should I replace them with, the P1101-ND or P1142-ND? Another part?


----------



## pburke

I have a few pix on my server of what I have done to my 3950 transport project. There's much more to come so I have only dumped some progress pix on my server. 

http://didnt.doit.wisc.edu/audio/toshiba/

 Careful with Schottky diodes in the PSU - I not only blew the fuse and some underrated diodes, I also fried most of the PSU's switching silicon and just had to buy me a second 3950 on ebay to replace the whole PSU 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway - my mods are pretty extensive as the pictures will show.

 What's coming next: Fix the PSU, then every single cap other than the ceramics is going to be replaced, even those that were not listed in the original mod. I'm even doing the video caps because one day I may want to watch a movie with this unit. The diodes in the PSU will be replaced with 600V Cree brand Schottky I had left over from a tube project, the psu will move into an external box with custom cables. I'm looking at using a large sealed lead acid battery for some of the supply voltages (to clock and other chips), possibly through some better regulators than the stock psu offers. The transport and signal board will then go into a custom case. 

 This is lots of fun, since even right now, half way through my plan, the transport sounds pretty fantastic (well , it did before I blew up the PSU with the 100V schottky diodes ) 

 Don't just follow the directions for the Swenson or Vinnie mod - there's much more you can do to these cheap units - the mod budget is the limit. Don't be afraid to blow something up either - that whole 3950 I had to buy to have some spare parts cost me less than the two Auricaps I added on the mains wires...


 Peter


----------



## SportaJoe

Hey Pburke thats got to be the most modded tosh yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just finished the Vinnie mods to go with the Swensons i did earlier and its sounding awesome. Do you have a part # for that iec jack. I would like to do the same to mine.


----------



## pburke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *SportaJoe* 
_Hey Pburke thats got to be the most modded tosh yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I just finished the Vinnie mods to go with the Swensons i did earlier and its sounding awesome. Do you have a part # for that iec jack. I would like to do the same to mine._

 

the jack was left over from an order at a cable place. But Mouser and Digikey both have dozens of them. I think mine is similar to type E:

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/619/679.pdf

 You haven't really seen the full extent of the mod yet until that custom chassis is done. Currently a carbon fiber/aluminum construction is what I am mostly interested in, although a few days ago I saw a box of unused Lego blocks that just intrigued me - could you fill blocks with sand or metal shavings before you put them together with super glue? I'll have to digest those ideas some more, but the goal is a chassis that's pretty light, rigid and extremly low in resonance. Shielding as a function of the case is secondary, since I'll use more of the ERS cloth inside the unit. 

 First I'll need to install another 20 or so caps - I'm going to replace every single one in there 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Peter


----------



## Jose Garcia

www.stereophile.com has posted the review of the Simaudio Monn Equinox, in which the Toshiba SD-3950 was "quasi-reviewed" by John Atkinson.

 There are just a few notes but , at least, there they are.

 regards,

 Jose.


----------



## Neville

Yeah I saw that. About time that somebody acknowledged the Toshiba.


----------



## Jose Garcia

He wasn't that enthusiastic as we are about these mighty units, but at least it wasn't that bad !!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Many inmates at the Asylum went mad about the "review" because he used a stock unit and the comparison was against the Equinox ( $2K). I know someone who sell modified Toshibas who offered one totally modified unit for review but Mr. Atkinson refused due to Stereophiles policy.....

 It would it be very interesting if only he can have a totally modified unit 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Jose.


----------



## Jahn

I don't know what's going on but for some reason as of yesterday my Tushi started kicking butt. Before it was a very nice unit, best thing in my house. But I noticed some distortion/fuzziness when I pushed it using the cmoy - it was still there when I graduated to the SR-71. Plus there were literal burn smells coming from it lol - might have been them LITERALLY burning something in there, like the caps were being filled with juice or something.

 Well anyhow I decided to give it a nice go and let it run constantly overnight. For some reason today it is a beast - with new CDs like "Tragic Kingdom" - No Doubt, to one of my old CD-Rs of Miles Davis on the Fantasy label. Grados are not known for soundstage, but this thing is giving me serious soundstage. On "Night in Tunisia" the tambourine in the first passage sounds like a REAL tambourine - not sibilant at all, and the rattles are coming from behind that upright bass- so woody, so thumpy - bass lovers like me AND jazz lovers have something special going on with a modded 3960. Voodoo, you have a serious product on your hands. WHOA the tambourine just kicked back in - on top of the cymbals, i never noticed it was in that mix... AWESOME. I'm happy with my CD source for a long time to come!


----------



## Voodoochile

That smell does not sound comforting at ALL Jahn! Of course the player was not even close to being burnt in when you got it (no pun intended), so the improvement is only sort of surprising. Glad it is so pronounced though!

 As for caps, anything replaced was replaced with higher-rated parts than what was removed, so I don't think you have any cap trouble. You might pull the cover off and take a look-see just to be sure something else is nto going on. The ceramic fuse installed is even the same rating (of course) as the one it replaced. It may just have been some residual material from the original manufacturing perhaps- was this the first time it was on for an extended period? I left it on overnight a few times without anything unusual happening.

 Sounds pretty nice though. Has the smell subsided- was it temporary?


----------



## Jahn

Hmm, I'm not sure how to describe it - it doesn't smell like a kitchen fire, or even when i put an opamp in my old cmoy in backwards and the thing started to fry. It smells more like, hmm...your computer when you first get it and the whole thing winds up if that makes sense. Plus it ran pretty hot the first few days - the top was definitely not cool, and it baked anything on top of it. Now the top is not as hot, but anything put on top of it still feels like it gets a bit of ambient heat. Instead of putting the Solo on top of it I think I'll stack my turntable on it with the Pandafeet sorbothane legs separating them, that might help.

 But yep the burn smell and the heat are mostly all gone now - it never affected the sound from what I remember, but it is odd that the improvement in sound sort of corresponded with the disappearance of the smell/heat lol. Ah well, I'm happy! Plus just to be sure i think I'll run it nonstop for 3 days straight this time just to be certain everything is all locked in inside there.


----------



## rsaavedra

Haven't verified this yet, but according to this post in Audioasylum, Stereophile now lists the Toshiba 3950 as a class D component in their CD Transport section:

http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/dig...ges/93092.html


----------



## Jahn

i guess getting rated at all is a good thing, but D? isn't A the best? and what about this benchmark dac business - the 3950 has a digital audio out? ah...it doesn't have optical or toslink out, but it does have digital out. I wonder if i got a dac and a digital cable, if this would sound better than the swenson mod analog outs...


----------



## rsaavedra

Well, remember they audition only stock units, it's a stock 3950 that got that rating. They won't audition a modded one because of magazine policies. I think it's great a stock unit so inexpensive ends up in their list. Pretty sure that's most likely the cheapest source component in the history of their list.


----------



## lan

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jahn* 
_Plus it ran pretty hot the first few days - the top was definitely not cool, and it baked anything on top of it. Now the top is not as hot,_

 

You know the temperature in the city has dropped in the last few weeks


----------



## Jahn

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lan* 
_You know the temperature in the city has dropped in the last few weeks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

oh, that's it! i'm building in a square wave function in the Tushi - one press of the button and i'll fry your K1000s!

 but seriously, I know there was something you didn't like about my 3960 when you first heard it, so i think i'll keep it on non-stop burn in to get it ready. as voodoo said, it probably wasn't close to being burned in when I first brought it to the qualia store, and imho the sound has improved since. plus i'm going to load the deck by bringing CDs that I know sound good with it, even when using the SR71 as the amp driving it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .


----------



## pburke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jahn* 
_the 3950 has a digital audio out? ah...it doesn't have optical or toslink out, but it does have digital out. I wonder if i got a dac and a digital cable, if this would sound better than the swenson mod analog outs..._

 

If you search over at AA, you'll see that Swenson himself now listens to the Toshiba with an external DDDAC1543 these days.

http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?...on&r=&session=

 That's a re-clocking DAC, which is a feature I'd recommend. I have no idea if it does sound better than the modded analog outs, since I intended to use my 3950 as a transport before I even started to mod it.

 Peter


----------



## Jahn

lol! usually i think of keeping electronics cool, but swenson actually says HEATING this baby up, like literal internal heat, improves the sound! well who am I to argue. I'm wrapping this baby up in a blanket.


----------



## Evoz

Is there anyone I can send my 3960 to? to have it modded, I would really like to get the most out of this player possible. I dont have the time or the soldering skills to learn 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .If anyone can help me out, PM me
 --simon


----------



## Natsuiro

I just got my toshiba modded by trevornetwork and it's amazing. Before I never thought the toshiba sounded very good.. I was very disappointed with it's sound. But now it's really great. But i'm just missing the noise filter cap and the "big" one.

 Does anyone know if it's possible to put a new transformer onto the power supply pcb board? I think that would be very cool!


----------



## pburke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Natsuiro* 
_I just got my toshiba modded by trevornetwork and it's amazing. Before I never thought the toshiba sounded very good.. I was very disappointed with it's sound. But now it's really great. But i'm just missing the noise filter cap and the "big" one.

 Does anyone know if it's possible to put a new transformer onto the power supply pcb board? I think that would be very cool!_

 

pointless mod in that switching supply. What would be more effective and easier to do is to build separate supplies for some of the key voltages that drive the chips and the transport. Battery supplies may even be more economical and quieter if built properly.

 Peter


----------



## jboehle

Well you guys are just evil. I found the 3950 in stock at TechDepot.com last night and ordered one, it shipped out today. Now off to figure out what parts I need to order for the mods!

 I found Vinnie's page here:
http://home.nc.rr.com/keihin/toshiba3950/vinniemods.htm

 And Swenson's page here:
http://johnswenson1.home.comcast.net...3960_mods.html

 Which Vinnie mods do I do to the audio output board if I am going to do the Swenson mods instead?

 Are there any other sites on modding this player, with alternate/better procedures or parts lists?

 -Jason


----------



## pburke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jboehle* 
_Which Vinnie mods do I do to the audio output board if I am going to do the Swenson mods instead?

 Are there any other sites on modding this player, with alternate/better procedures or parts lists?

 -Jason_

 

Vinnie and Swenson mods usually go together if you want to use the player's analog outs. 

 I have tracked all my own mods, which are somewhat more extensive than both of these, except I never touched the analog outputs (opamps, etc) since I use the player as a transport. However, I also modded the capacitors for the component video output, which quite dramatically improved the picture quality from DVDs. 

 Let me know if you want to see my parts list. I'm still messing around with it so the list isn't final

 Peter


----------



## sammy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pburke* 
_ However, I also modded the capacitors for the component video output, which quite dramatically improved the picture quality from DVDs. 

 Let me know if you want to see my parts list. I'm still messing around with it so the list isn't final

 Peter_

 

Peter, 

 I would be very interested in your parts list (and any pictures you might have of your mod). I too have a 3950 that I would like to mod, and I use it for both CD audio and DVD playback, so improvements to the picture quality as well as the audio would be worth the extra parts and effort.

 BTW...have any of you noticed (at least on a stock Tosh 3950) quite a bit of background noise on the analog outs? For instance, I can turn my amp all the way up and I clearly hear a combination of a 60 Hz hum/buzz and a high pitched whine. Does it with everything disconnected from the 3950 except the analog cables, and goes away when disconnected from the amp (plus it is not on any of my other sources). Maybe the Vinnie/Swenson mods will get rid of it (hopefully)?

 Thanks!
 Sammy


----------



## drewd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sammy* 
_BTW...have any of you noticed (at least on a stock Tosh 3950) quite a bit of background noise on the analog outs? For instance, I can turn my amp all the way up and I clearly hear a combination of a 60 Hz hum/buzz and a high pitched whine. Does it with everything disconnected from the 3950 except the analog cables, and goes away when disconnected from the amp (plus it is not on any of my other sources). Maybe the Vinnie/Swenson mods will get rid of it (hopefully)?_

 

I wasn't really smart and didn't listen to mine before I modded it, but it is absolutely dead silent now. And I'll put in my usual plug for the Pioneer DV-563A as a contender for the Toshiba crown, but with SACD and DVD-A as well!

 -Drew


----------



## jboehle

Ordered parts today. I have a 3960 in hand and a 3950 on the way. I am going to do one Vinnie-style and one Vinnie PSU mods w/ Swenson output. Digi-Key was out of the PSU filter cap that Vinnie specifies, so I got the 220uF 200V instead. Ordered double of everything else, including some of the heatsinks, RFI ferrite clamp-ons, and ceramic fuses talked about earlier in this thread. From Parts Connexion I got both silver mica and polystrene 300pF caps, .47uF Auricaps for Swenson mods. Also got some very nice Vampire CM2F RCA jacks, they are direct gold-plated copper. Expensive I know, but what the hell, right!? Also ordered some E-A-R Foculpods for feet for the two players from PC. Plan on stopping by Home Depot on my way home tonight to pick up some adhesive-backed tiles and rope caulk, I will probably do the damping on the 3960 this weekend.

 Hoping to get both of them done by Oct. 9th when we are having a meet in Lawrence, KS, where I live.

 I'll be sure to report back with lots of pics and impressions!

 -Jason


----------



## dcrane

I'd be interested in doing some improvements to the video as well. pburke, please post what parts you changed. My 3960 is on the way and I have the parts already. Going to do Vinnie's mods with 2 OPA627 on a browndog.


----------



## pburke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sammy* 
_Peter, 

 I would be very interested in your parts list (and any pictures you might have of your mod). I too have a 3950 that I would like to mod, and I use it for both CD audio and DVD playback, so improvements to the picture quality as well as the audio would be worth the extra parts and effort.

 BTW...have any of you noticed (at least on a stock Tosh 3950) quite a bit of background noise on the analog outs? For instance, I can turn my amp all the way up and I clearly hear a combination of a 60 Hz hum/buzz and a high pitched whine. Does it with everything disconnected from the 3950 except the analog cables, and goes away when disconnected from the amp (plus it is not on any of my other sources). Maybe the Vinnie/Swenson mods will get rid of it (hopefully)?

 Thanks!
 Sammy_

 


 parts list and pix are collected here and most of the parts should be on there. I think the Wima bypass caps are not listed - the majority is 50V rated MKP10s at 0.022uF, while in the PSU there are a few 2000V rated 0.01 uF MKP10s.

http://didnt.doit.wisc.edu/audio/toshiba

 not up to date, but close. I'm probably going to finish the project in October (external power supply, new chassis, install 4amp schottkys because all the 1amp schottkys blow up, etc)


 can't tell you much about the analog outs, since I didn't mess with that beyond some caps changes so the DVDs sound ok on my other system. For the audio system, I use a separate DAC.

 Peter


----------



## sammy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pburke* 
_parts list and pix are collected here and most of the parts should be on there. I think the Wima bypass caps are not listed - the majority is 50V rated MKP10s at 0.022uF, while in the PSU there are a few 2000V rated 0.01 uF MKP10s.

http://didnt.doit.wisc.edu/audio/toshiba

 Peter_

 

Thanks Peter! I can't wait to get started on this project.

 Sammy


----------



## dcrane

Just soldered my OPA627's on the browndog adapter for my Toshiba 3960. Man, I've got to get a magnifier lamp or something! I needed a break just after doing that.


----------



## dcrane

ah...crap. I lifted up a pad on the opamp. Now what do i do? It was the upper right one, I think it's V-.

 Actually, it's 3 pads gone. I guess I'm screwed now.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dcrane* 
_ah...crap. I lifted up a pad on the opamp. Now what do i do?_

 

Oh man sorry to hear that. Really not sure if it's recoverable in any way, I've only read lifting a pad is what everyone dreads the most when doing anything with SMD components.


----------



## dcrane

Well, I'm going to see if I can pick up a replacement board or just another player. Ebay, here I come! If any one has any other ideas.....


----------



## Wooderson

Dcrane, sounds like you should just go with the swenson mods on that player now since you don't need the opamp for them.

 For what it's worth... I've done both the vinnie mods (with the browndog and 627's) and then the Swenson mods on mine. My personal opinion is that I like the Vinnie/browndog mod just slightly better than the swenson... but it's a very slight preference indeed. So slight in fact, that I'm leaving mine in the "Swenson" mod mode.


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Wooderson* 
_Dcrane, sounds like you should just go with the swenson mods on that player now since you don't need the opamp for them._

 

Ah that's certainly the way to go, didn't think of that yesterday. Indeed for the Swenson mod you actually bypass the opamp, so the lifted pads wouldn't be a problem for it.


----------



## dcrane

I going to get another signal board. But, I might do the swenson mod too on the extra board.....or if I screw the next one up too. But, I think I'll get the next one right.


----------



## Natsuiro

My toshiba 3960 crapped out 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 I really liked the sound out of it when it was modded.. but I don't want to drive down to the states and buy another one, and I'm afraid it'll fail again.
 I never liked the sound out of the 3960 unmodded, but modded I thought it sounded very good.
 There's a link to a picture of the 3960.
http://www.members.shaw.ca/Natsuiro/toshiba.jpg


----------



## rsaavedra

Stereophile's JA comparing the Moon Equinox to the stock Toshiba 3950:

_"As much as I would like to say that the Toshiba amply fulfilled my expectations by sounding awful in comparison with the Moon Equinox, it did not."_

http://www.stereophile.com/digitalso...io/index1.html

 PS. Oddly, he inspected the unit inside and he couldn't find output opamp chips.


----------



## chambl

Just wanted to share my experience in modding a 3960. 

 I've been following this thread for a while and finally decided to take the plunge and try it out. I got the player off Ebay and the parts from Digikey (caps, 2x OPA627 opamps), Cimmaron Tech (2->1 SOIC8 adapter) and Partsconnexion (Black gates). As for my background experience, it's been a very long time since I've last picked up a soldering iron and I've never worked on elements so small as an opamp. This was certainly a big learning experience...

 So far, I've have just performed the audio board mods. I removed the audio board as described in the Swenson mods except for the ribbon cable running to the front of the player. I mis-read the instructions, believing that the plug of that cable needed to be removed, and not just the cable itself. Though I tried removing the plug, it didn't want to budge, so I just left the board connected (the board was therefore still attached when I removed the capacitors and opamp, (doh!)). After fiddling around with the board, brushing the iron tip against my index finger and dropping the iron on my leg (thankfully I was wearing PJs at the time) I removed all of the necessary caps. 

 Then came the opamp. I tried using the wick to absorb some of the solder from a hole for a cap elsewhere on the board for practice, but the solder just wouldn't go. I knew I was doing something wrong, but wasn't sure what that was... Since I couldn't get that to work, I figured that I couldn't get the solder off the opamp either. I had to think of something else. So, I figured by using an exacto knife, I could push the opamp leg away from the pad as I applied heat with the iron. This worked for the first 4 legs I did (2 on each side of the opamp), though as I did the next leg, the solder wasn't quite molten; I yanked out the pad 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . You can see which pad was removed in the picture indicated by the red circle (pic isn't my own, just for illustrative purposes). I soldered the opamp adapter with opamps on nonetheless in hopes of the best. I tried adding some solder to the pad, though it wouldn't hold. It did, however, hold on to the adjacent lead (which I somehow wicked up). After spending a night and day freaking out over this, I went back to the board. After looking at some pictures in this thread, I realised I could just pull out the ribbon cable, which made things a bit easier. For the opamp, I tried applying some solder to where the pad used to be again, though the solder just wouldn't hold. At one point, some white deposit appeared in the area. Using a pick, i removed the white deposit. For fear of causing further damage to the board and knocking off the tiny resistors so close by, and I just stopped trying. I continued on with the other mods.

 I then proceeded with putting in the caps. At this point, the pre-existing solder was blocking the holes. I tried melting this solder and inserting a cap, though this really didn't work out in the end. At some miraculous point when I was trying to use the wick again, I was able to absorb the solder into the wick, I finally saw a hole! The key was to apply pressure and to wait until solder is seen coming through the wick. If a bit of solder is unaccessible to the iron and is blocking the hole, adding a little more solder will remove it all quite cleanly. Discovering this was a relevation! I removed the solder from all of the holes and easily inserted the caps in place. Soldering the caps to the board was easy. 

 I put the board back into the player, reconnected all of the cables and closed the lid. I plugged it into a multi-plug power cord and switched the cord switch on. So far, so good. I stood back and turned on the player with the remote in my left hand and a fire extinguisher in my right. It turned on, and nothing exploded! I'm surprised, though will it play? I turned it off, then plugged it into my receiver. As I was getting a CD, I was already thinking about where I could find a replacement audio board (currently there are no 3960s available to Canada on Ebay). I put a CD in and held my breath, expecting the worst. To my absolute surprise, IT PLAYED! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The sound was significantly better than before too! I just couldn't believe it!

 After a moment of euphoria and relief, I unplugged everything so I could reinstall the audio board properly into the player. I also added some rope caulk all over the interior of the player for dampening. 

 So at this point, I have this question for you: For the connection to the pad that I removed, do you know what that pad connects to (i.e. its function)? Is it possible for the opamps to still work even if the adapter is not connected at one leg? Are the opamps necessary for the player to work? (i.e. even without the opamp, can the player still work?) Maybe the lead is touching the trace under it, and might explain why the unit still works. Any theories?

 In any case, the unit works. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The next thing I want to do is the power board mods. Right now, I am missing the 150 uF, 250V cap (Digikey is out of stock) but I have all of the other parts. Is it safe for me to proceed with the mod with the parts I have, or is the missing cap absolutely necessary? 

 When playing music at a very low volume, I can hear the player whirring. The damping has helped out a lot, though I can still hear it. Is this normal, or should the player be nearly silent?


----------



## rsaavedra

The diagram for an OPA2604 here: http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/data.../OPA2604.shtml, suggests all legs are in use. The leg you highlighted seems to be leg #2, it's the negative input to one of the opamps in the chip. My guess is the leg might be in contact with the metal below closing the circuit, otherwise one channel in your player either wouldn't work, or wouldn't sound right.

 Some of the Toshiba's seem noisier than others. The transport in the one I modded was originally pretty noisy, but after the dampening it went very silent. After modding that one I got another 3950 for spare parts, on which I plan to do the Swenson mods. The transport in that one with no dampening mods came as silent as my modded one.

 I think you can do the the power supply mods partially with no problem, but I'd recommend try to get that cap and install it eventually.

 Hey btw, welcome to HeadFi and sorry for your wallet!!!


----------



## chambl

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_ The leg you highlighted seems to be leg #2, it's the negative input to one of the opamps in the chip. My guess is the leg might be in contact with the metal below closing the circuit, otherwise one channel in your player either wouldn't work, or wouldn't sound right._

 


 Hmm. Both channels do work, though you've got me thinking as for the "sounding right" part. There was one piece I was playing today on the Toshiba that sounded a bit different. This is perhaps because I never listened to the music analytically, never could tell the sound separation with the equipment I used before or it could be the missing pad issue. I was listening to Dave Brubeck's Take Five (for anyone here familiar with this please help me out). It seemed as though the drums (particularly the cymbals) were slightly towards the right than dead center. Is this the way it's supposed to be?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rsaavedra* 
_ Some of the Toshiba's seem noisier than others. The transport in the one I modded was originally pretty noisy, but after the dampening it went very silent. After modding that one I got another 3950 for spare parts, on which I plan to do the Swenson mods. The transport in that one with no dampening mods came as silent as my modded one._

 

So far, I still hear a high frequency whirring sound the player. After opening up the lid, I found that the noise is coming from the metal circular disk holding a CD in place from the top of the transport. I suspect the sound is being produced from the disk rubbing against the plastic. Any recommendation for a lubricant that I can lightly squirt into there?


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chambl* 
_Any recommendation for a lubricant that I can lightly squirt into there?_

 

I have this one from Radio Shack, used it on the side edges of the CD tray.


----------



## superjohnny

In the Swenson mod it says in the Parts Needed section that you need:
 * Two high quality coupling capacitors. 
 * Two 300pf caps. High quality ceramic, silver mica or film will do. 

 But in the installation you only use the coupling caps between C910/C912 & the RCA outs. What am I missing here? Where do you use the 2 300pf caps?

 I kinda screwed up my 3950 with the Vinnie mods (lifted a pad) and now get a hum. I'm thinking of trying the Swenson mods.


----------



## Voodoochile

The 300pF caps go between the signal and ground, right at the RCA jack. They fit flat against the rear panel pretty easily.


----------



## superjohnny

I'm terribly embarrassed for my ignorance. Is it correct to say that one set of caps goes between the C910/C912 and the other goes between the ground of C902 & the RCA jack ground?

 Like this for right side:
 negative lead of C910 -> wire -> great big caps -> Right RCA jack
 negative pad of C902 -> wire -> 300pF cap -> right RCA jack ground

 And this for left side:
 negative lead of C912 -> wire -> great big caps -> Left RCA jack
 negative pad of C902 -> wire -> 300pF cap -> Left RCA jack ground

 I just read this...
  Quote:


 The 300pf caps can be soldered between the ground and center connection of the jacks. 
 

So my scenario above is correct. Voodoochile I owe you a bowl chile! What caps did you use when doing this mod? Is there anything you wish you would have done differently?


----------



## Voodoochile

Actually, you desolder the negative leads of C910 and C912, and also C902. Nothing is soldered to the now-free leads of the existing caps. Run new wire from the board pads C910 and C912 to the 0.47uF signal caps. The other lead of the 0.47uF caps run to the RCAs center lugs. The ground leads run from the RCAs outer shell lug (tabs) back to the C902 board pad (both wires on the same pad). Finally, the 300pF caps "jumper" the RCAs center lug to the RCAs grounding tab, or outer lug.

 As for the three half-desoldered caps, you may simply bend the now-free negative leads up the sides of the caps, and tilt them back a bit. Or desolder the other lead and remove them alltogether.

 I've tried ICW Clarity Caps, Auricaps, and Panasonic polypropylene film and foil caps, all 0.47uF. Silver mica 300pF caps for other caps, Cornell-Dublier.


----------



## ezc

Need some help. just purchased a 3960 & will do the vinnie mods. The pb is the same as the older 3960 but the audio board is not the same. It dosnt have the toshiba processor or the same cap numbers. The board has a Zoran processor & more caps than the 3950 & early 3960. I have moded the pb as per the vinnie mods & want to do the audio board. What caps & values do I need to replace? Do is still replace the 16v 100uf caps with the panasonic 16v 120uf caps & the 25v 47uf caps at the opamp with the blackgate nx hiq 47uf 6.3v caps? I will replace the opamp with the opa2604 once I know which caps & what values. If anyone has done a newer 3960 any help is appreciated! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Thanks,
 Ace


----------



## rsaavedra

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ezc* 
_Need some help. just purchased a 3960 & will do the vinnie mods. The pb is the same as the older 3960 but the audio board is not the same. It dosnt have the toshiba processor or the same cap numbers. The board has a Zoran processor & more caps than the 3950 & early 3960._

 

I hadn't heard of these variations Ace, though it doesn't surprise me they occur. (You know, user manuals some times have that clause: "Product subject to changes without notification", or something like that).

 I would try to contact Vinnie Rossi or Swenson at Audioasylum, or post that same question there. Not only they created the Toshiba mods, I understand both of them, and some others there, tried and experimented with the mods on many Toshibas. So they might have come across these variations you encountered.

 Hey btw, welcome to Head-fi, and sorry for your wallet!


----------



## pburke

just wanted to add my Transport Mod writeup URL to the thread - the thing is more or less done except for a few tweaks I am going to tackle after other projects are done such as cryo-treating all the flat ribbon cables and the drive machanism next time I send a batch to the cryo shop, as well as a clock replacement with dedicated battery power supply). 


http://didnt.doit.wisc.edu/audio/toshiba/toshiba.html

 Peter


----------



## dcrane

I finally got the courage to try this mod again after lifting the pads. I got the chip off fine this time. Nothing exploded and sound actually came out too. But...the right channel's volume is extremely low. What could cause this? I would appreciate any suggestions. Also, I did the browndog adapter mod.


----------



## dcrane

Figured it out. Looking through a maginifying glass, I saw my connections for the browndog adapter to a couple of the pads were not good. I retouched them up and bingo! That was tough with the caps in the way.


----------



## dcrane

Now, I am getting a popping sound from the right channel when not playing music. Also, the signal seems low.


----------



## itza2mer

If anyone needs a 3950 for spare parts and a new in bag OPA2604AU-ND opamp , here is my listing: http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=116499


----------



## sellb

http://www.datasheet4u.com 


http://fr.datasheet4u.com


----------



## twc5964

I dont have this Toshiba but a Philips DVP 3960.I replaced all electrolytics in the power supply with Panny fm's/Rubycon zl. No problem there at all.The other board is the audio-video board---I replaced some caps with Elna Silmic II's and Ruby zl's. The sound and video is friggin outstanding,however,I gave up after 8 caps.

 They are just too darn difficult to get out.I admit I need a new soldering iron something terrible.All of the ones I replaced are the larger values from 1000uf down to 100uf and two pairs of 47uf on this board.

 This model from Wallmart was $45 bux . Once you set the audio in the menu to "action" lookout !

 Now,I wish I could locate the Toshiba locally and the only model I found was something like the 4000 series at Best Buy in the $60-70 dollar range.

 Still,a BIG THANK YOU for this thread even though my player does not apply


----------



## Voodoochile

A hot soldering iron and some decent desoldering braid works wonders for this. 

 After wicking away the bulk of the solder, a touch of heat while applying lateral pressure against the cap, alternately between the cap's two legs, will typically allow it to come right out. Good for a quick mobo fix, too.


----------



## twc5964

Thanks Voodoochile ! I have soldering wick and still it's too difficult on these caps for me.They're pressed into the board so tight with solder on the top and bottom.Some,once I get them out I cant clear the hole enough to put the new cap in.The legs on the Silmics are almost too thick even when I used a dremel to file them down.

 I'm gonna stop here as one of the pads I lifted and went thru hell trying to fix.Yes,I'd like to replace every cap on the board but some of those are clustered together with other tiny components nearby.

 Not willing to risk this...especially,if I pull one of the surface mount resistors off the board.I have experience in the past with soldering so this is nothing new to me.I guess my patience is wearing thin and I truly need to invest in a better soldering iron with the proper tips.

 So far ,I'm satisfied where I stand with this player. It's performance has increased a lot just from what caps have been swapped out.Man,on well recorded soundtracks those Silmics really add some punch.I'm still using a composite cable as I prefer this over the component cables for picture quality.My tv has no progressive scan but it's still impressive.

 This thread has been a blast and a good read from start to finish.Wish I could hear one of the modded Toshibas'.


----------

