# Asus Xonar DX Mods!



## rds

I wasn't able to find a mods thread for this card anywhere and this card can be really nice with a few basic mods. So I've taken some time to figure out what is what on this card in terms of the stereo output stage.

 Note: Everything on this card is surface mount and the board is very cheap. This requires some soldering skills if you want to be able to use the card again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I don't think this is good beginner project. 

*Final Modded Card:*









*Mod 1: Quality coupling caps*

 I chose to go with 22uF (same value as stock/CS4398 datasheet) 25V Nichicon Muse ES bypassed with 0.22uF Wima mkp. 
 [FYI All the stock electrolytic caps appear to be 10V.]

 These are the left and right front coupling caps:







 Apply heat to the edges of the solder pad and gently pull these off one side at a time (there are 2 solder pads). 
 I should say now, keep your soldering iron on low temp. I used 250C - this is as high as you should go.
 Add a little solder to the pads.
 Add the caps of your choice. 
 In the photo above these are the dark purple (black gate nx-hiq) caps.


*Mod 2: Quality Low Pass Caps*

*this is a low pass filter. It is probably meant to remove high frequency noise. So this cap mod replaces the cap that is forming the low-pass filter*
 I used the same method to remove these caps as done in for mod 1. I used 220 uF (same value as stock) 25V Nichicon Muse KW (from Mouser). The replaced caps are the little gold and black ones closest to the purple black gates.

*
 Mod 3ower supply decoupling caps*

 Also Nichicon ultra low esr HZ 1200uF caps decoupling the power supplies as seen in the second picture. Make sure to arrange the polarity as shown and use caps rated at at least 16V.

*
 Mod 4: Upgrade Op-amp (yikes!)*






 Note: The opamp I have circled is definitely the cs4398 DAC opamp, but I haven't gone through the painstaking process of determining whether there is another opamp before the output. I don't think there is. 

 Now I also decided to replace the opamp. You should think twice about this if you're not familiar with how to do this. Basically you want to heat all pins on one side of the opamp and while the solder is liquid lift that side from the board. Then do the same with the other side. It's a little tricky to desolder these chips, so if you can practice on an old motherboard or something you should.
 Have fun!


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## m0b1liz3

Yeah, I was thinking of replacing the opamp on my line 6 guitarport. I am holding off for the time being since I have realized my soldering will improve more if I do a few other projects first.


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## Maniac

Let me provide a bit of info on the SMD SOIC (that's what they call the package of those SMD op-amps) desoldering that I've learned on my previous employment.

 First of all, you put a large blob of solder on the more crowded side of op-amp's legs (for example, on the photo above, you'd be putting the solder down on the left first). After you made a large blob that covers all 4 legs of the op amp, you then proceed to do the same to the other side.

 When you saturate the second side with solder, quickly move on to the previous "blob" and quickly melts it while the other blob is still liquid. when you find it melts, you flick it lightly and the whole thing, including most of the solder will fly off the board.


 If it didn't work the first time, go back and heat up solder on the empty side (on the photo above, it would be the right side), then quickly go to the other side and flick it off toward the empty side when you melts the solder on the other side.



 Of course, make sure you flick it in a direction where there's no components in the way, or you'd have quite a mess to clean up. And as always, practice it on stuff that you can afford to damage and destroy before moving on to the actual stuff.

 After the removal, just use solder wick to quickly mop up the excess solder and you'd be ready to put a new op-amp in.


 I usually use a 30W soldering iron for 63/37 leaded solder, and 40W soldering iron for the newer unleaded/RoHS/Green solder.



 For anyone who just want the most important tip, BE QUICK. If you are good with this technique, it would actually be less stressful to the pads than desoldering it one pin at a time. (takes about 30 secs on average to do the whole process...)


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## rds

That's some really good advice - thanks Maniac!


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## rokk

I've been trying to check which opamp was used for the front channels.
 How did you manage to find out which op that was used?

 Thanks alot, also, which opamp replacement did you use?


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## rds

Quote:


 How did you manage to find out which op that was used? 
 

With a multimeter and the cs4398 datasheet.

  Quote:


 Thanks alot, also, which opamp replacement did you use? 
 

I first tried the ad8620, but found that the sound was too harsh. Now I'm using the opa2132, and it sounds good
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But YMMV, it really depends on the rest of your system I guess.

 EDIT: I'm back to the ad8620 and I'm liking it


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## rokk

Thank you for figuring it out of me, I don't own an multimeter anymore so it was a hassle to borrow one. Was planning on doing what you did but never came to it. Thank you!

 I have an LM4562 waiting to be put on the board, i also have some AD-amps i might try, and of course an 2134 as well.

 I also have some Cerafine capacitors that might work?


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## rds

Sounds like you're ready to go with this. Cerafines should be very nice.


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## rokk

Changed the opamp in 10 mins, it was a no-brainer.
 The way I did it with the cheap opamp on the card is a bit more crude.. I just cut the legs off and removed them from the pads with the soldertip. Then I just put the new LM4562 SO-8 in it's place and soldered it there.

 Sounds.. different, more dynamics in the music, more silence yet the details are mostly preserved. Something happened to the vocals too, the music seems calmer and the bass has more definition.

 Maybe time to play with the caps?


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## rds

Cool, it's good to hear back from someone else trying this.
 Definitely try swapping out the coupling caps (Mod 1). It's easier than the opamp.

 Another mod I found to be significant was adding more and better capacitance to the decoupling/power rail caps.
 I'll add that in later. Also very simple.


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## rds

So how much have I increased the resale value?


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## Filburt

You know, you could have used Elna RVO for the coupling cap slot as those are an SMD type that is designed for audio applications. That airwiring job is rather precarious; I don't understand why you decided to invite all that inductance and make a giant antenna for RFI. Beware that the inductance of those long wires may interact with the supply bypassing and cause oscillation, among other sources of that problem (the op-amp may not like having its feedback loop configured that way, either).


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## rds

Thanks for the tip
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 While I wouldn't recommend wiring a dip socket to this board, the ground plane does shield the wires from RFI (the cards sits on the bottom of the mb with the socket facing the floor).
 If you look at the part of the wire that will create inductance it's pretty short. Inductance could be lowered much further by moving the film caps so they are at right angles. In either case oscillation is very unlikely. Again this is not ideal - it is for trying different op-amps.


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## rokk

How do you like the sound of the 8620 compared to the old opamp?

 Picture of my mod:


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## rds

Nice work!
 I much prefer the ad8620. It is much more detailed than the stock 5532. Some people might find it too "aggressive".


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## Apocalypsee

I have one mod you can try, bypass the output coupling caps with just a wire. By my experience, it sounds better that way plus it doesn't color the sound. But check for DC offset when you done that


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## rokk

Was thinking about replacing it with a high quality capacitor like Black Gate or the like. But I might just Bypass it and check offset then.


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## rds

Short circuiting the output caps is a bad idea. They're there for a reason. Check the cs4398 datasheet


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## adelias

I'm think about buying a DX, I know it has an optical output but I need it to have a COAX digital output. Has anyone added a COAX output to the Xonar DX?


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## Apocalypsee

@rds

 I would like to know what you done (in detail) to power supply caps near to external (floppy) power and on supply caps for opamp


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## rds

Quote:


 I would like to know what you done (in detail) to power supply caps near to external (floppy) power and on supply caps for opamp 
 

It looks like more than it is. Those are just filter caps for the 12v and 5v supplies.
 I used 4 electrolytics because I didn't have larger values at the time. I've now switched those for 2 larger ones. Those are bypassed with film caps.
 Those film caps for the opamp are just ripple caps connected to ground.


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## Apocalypsee

Ah I see, thanks for explanation. I might buy this card if I don't plan to do something with my money 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I have some stuff, like LT1364 and LME49720 opamp, Sanyo OSCON, Rubycon NX HQ and MBZ to try on this card, I might tap the 3.5mm to make RCA out from it too


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## zha50

Looks interesting. Might need to try the mods on my DX once I have found a place to buy some audio grade caps in melbourne/australia.

 I got NS to send me 3 LM4562 opamps so their fine.

 What really pushed me to try and improve the SQ of the DX was when i compared it to my Arcam CD72 player, the DX just didn't have the depth and fidelity that the CDP had.

 Anyone got pics of their modded DX's? First sound card mod so not too sure how to go about it, the opamp and output cap replacement looks simple enough. As well as the power filtering, although i could do with a diagram or picture 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Are the Sanyo OSCON caps recommended for the PF caps?

 What sort of spec requirements are there for say the output couplings and power filters. Im finding it hard to buy Nichicon/Sanyo/BG and other high end audio labeled caps. There may be Rubycon caps in the local electronics shop, but how suited they are for this mod i do not know as i have little knowledge of what makes a good cap for the job at hand.


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## rds

I finally cleaned up my early hack job of this card. 
 I have a soic opa2107 mounted. Nichicon KW decoupling caps, and Black Gate NX hi q coupling caps.
 Also Nichicon ultra low esr HZ 1200uF caps decoupling the power supplies.










 **now it fits a standard single slot


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## rokk

Hi!
 Since I'm a beginner at electronics, even if I know some things and can solder pretty decently, I got some questions.

 What exactly is the purpose of the coupling and decoupling caps in this design and what kind of capacitor is prefered in this application? I can understand if you don't want to spend time explaing basic stuff, but I would like to get a grip about it all. This thing has been a questionmark for me some time now.

 As for the powersupply caps at the floppy connector, would two 470uF Elna Cerafine caps work? I got some left over from an earlier project.

 Sorry for my limited knowledge of theese applications, I'm trying to learn but there is a big lack of educational material for me to learn from.


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## rds

Quote:


 What exactly is the purpose of the coupling and decoupling caps in this design and what kind of capacitor is prefered in this application? 
 

Rather than try to reiterate information that can be found on the web I will tell you where to look.
 First, if you want to have a deeper understanding of electronics it is best to start with understanding the 3 basic circuit components: resistors, capacitors, and inductors. You can find in depth articles on each of these on wikipedia. The question is how deep or superficial you want your understanding to be. These topics go very deep and you can take right down to the quantum level and presumably beyond.

 As for coupling and decoupling the two principles are high pass and low pass filtering, respectively. You can find these topics on wikipedia too.
 A high pass filter is where a 'coupling' capacitor is used. Here the idea is to filter out very low frequencies and most importantly to block 0Hz or dc voltage.
 A decoupling is basically the inverse. Here we want to get rid of everything but dc voltage by shunting higher frequencies to ground.

  Quote:


 As for the powersupply caps at the floppy connector, would two 470uF Elna Cerafine caps work? 
 

For the power supply caps these will be fine so long as the voltage tolerance is greater than or equal to 16V. These are decoupling caps, btw, because we would like to have only dc power with no superimposed ac ( ie a 'clean' power supply).


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## rokk

Thank you, I've been reading a bit but since most articles aim at people with understanding I don't have I've been running into some trouble. Almost everything I know is self learned, and hence there are some gaps. But you answered my question perfectly. The answer you gave was just what I wanted to know, now I got an understanding of it and know how to go from here. Thank you! Now it makes a lot more sense to me, before I was a bit unsure.

 I'm actually starting an electromechanical education later this year, I got an interest but I am by far not versed enough in their applications even if know what the basic components themselfs do.

 I know how highpass and lowpass applications of capacitors work, and now I understand their use as well. A great many thanks!

 EDIT: I got a bit confused in your main post regarding this:

  Quote:


 Mod 2: Quality High Pass Caps

 EDIT this is a low pass filter. It is probably meant to remove high frequency noise. So this cap mod replaces the cap that is decoupling the i/v opamp (and forming the low-pass filter
 This is not as significant as Mod 1.
 I used the same method to replace the integrator caps 
 

That's also why I got a bit unsure, first it says high pass, then lowpass and then talk about integrator caps. I got a bit confused, guess it shows that I'm not educated enough. I'm seeing this as a learning project in understanding plus getting something out of it.


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## rds

Quote:


 That's also why I got a bit unsure, first it says high pass, then lowpass and then talk about integrator caps. I got a bit confused, guess it shows that I'm not educated enough. I'm seeing this as a learning project in understanding plus getting something out of it. 
 

I think what it shows is that that post was very confusing. Blame it on my lab ethic. We're always taught never to erase but just add edits. In this case that isn't helpful at all. So I've gone and edited this to be more useful as a guide.
 Let me know what you think.


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## rokk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rds* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think what it shows is that that post was very confusing. Blame it on my lab ethic. We're always taught never to erase but just add edits. In this case that isn't helpful at all. So I've gone and edited this to be more useful as a guide.
 Let me know what you think._

 

Much better, now it's very coherent. Anyways, got any ideas on widely spread Higher Quality capacitors suited for the mod 1 & 2 on the card? I've been trying to get some Nichicon or Black Gates here in sweden but I can't even get my hands om some cerafines! :\


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## rds

Quote:


 Much better, now it's very coherent. Anyways, got any ideas on widely spread Higher Quality capacitors suited for the mod 1 & 2 on the card? 
 

I can send you some caps. Send me a pm.


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## rokk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *syllabus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really, try the OPA2727. It's a whole new world from the OPA2107, @ 12V._

 

If I can hunt down a way to get it, i might try it. Elfa which is the main supplier of electronics in sweden does not have it. How does it sound compared to 4562 or the 8620?

 EDIT: As the stock electrolytics are 10V, for the 220uF cap, would a cap made for maximum of 6.3V work? Should work out fine, just thought I'd asked if I overlooked anything. I canget the caps for free more or less so I figured it might be worth a shot.


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## rds

Quote:


 As the stock electrolytics are 10V, for the 220uF cap, would a cap made for maximum of 6.3V work? 
 

I don't think that's a good idea. I'm not sure exactly what the voltage is coming in through the power cable, but I know the highest voltage rail on a pc power supply is 12V. So I recommend 16V, as it is a common value that is greater than 12V.
 Replacing stocks caps with lower voltage ones is a dangerous thing to do unless you are absolutely sure of the wost case scenario.


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## rokk

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rds* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think that's a good idea. I'm not sure exactly what the voltage is coming in through the power cable, but I know the highest voltage rail on a pc power supply is 12V. So I recommend 16V, as it is a common value that is greater than 12V.
 Replacing stocks caps with lower voltage ones is a dangerous thing to do unless you are absolutely sure of the wost case scenario._

 

The Supplyvoltage from the floppy-connector is +5 and +12V, but what comes across the cap.. I have no idea, but since they're 10V caps (right?) it's should not be 12V? I was not planning on putting it in without knowing for sure. But I figured I'd ask here if you or somebody else had measured. It's common sense not to put a 6.3V cap where a 10V is placed without being sure if it'll go poof or not. (for most people) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Normally I'd just grab a 16-25V cap and be done with it, but I got a pair of decent caps for free from a friend yesterday. So that's kind of why I wanted to check before buying something I wouldn't need. I have a multimeter but there is no chance in hell i can reach any measuring points in the cramped case. I'll figure something out and get back to you guys.


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## rokk

Ok, done a little research and fiddled a bit with the datasheets. Opamps are being fed 16 Volts, located a few caps (I think) but could not get a measure on the 220uf Caps. Anyways, they're not in the signalchain are they? I've been looking like a maniac through the datasheets for the CS4398 and can by no means find the 220uf Caps in the sheets over the design. No probs finding the 22uF cap and so.. Argh, I sigh at my lack of understanding this circuitry fully a bit. I get that it filters high freq but I don't get why it's actually there but not in the datasheet. Since size decided the freq of the cutoff a slight change in the value of the cap might cause issues if it's in the signalpath I guess.

 Anyways, next week I have replacement caps for the 22uF and a new OPamp coming for my modding pleasure..


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## individual6891

Sp +8/-8?? Is that measured or directly from datasheet? Any room to hack a dip socket into those SO8 pads?


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## Yangorang

Nice little guide there. I think the Xonar is a great card and it's just even greater with a few simple mods.

 Here's a little diagram:




 RED - Front 2 channels
 BLU - Surround channels
 GRN - Front panel audio I think...

 I've replaced the RED and BLU 5532s with LME49722 op-amps and I think it works pretty well.

 Added in some 2200uF power supply caps from Nichicon and the bass response is certainly improved.


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## kappa_ii

nothing new ?
 someone tries to bypass the mutting part ?


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## Vitaliy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rds* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice work!
 I much prefer the ad8620. It is much more detailed than the stock 5532. Some people might find it too "aggressive"._

 


 I have 2ps of AD8620 and 5 of OPA2727. What better to use? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 What are 2 of 5532 and 2 of R4580 under cs4398? Is it good idea to replace them as well?
 Thank you for your help.


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## Vitaliy

Hi!
 Is it possible to add separate optic output if I want to use Line-In and SPDIF at the same time? Can it be connected in parellel to existing connector?
 Did anybody try this mod?


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## ROBSCIX

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Vitaliy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have 2ps of AD8620 and 5 of OPA2727. What better to use? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 What are 2 of 5532 and 2 of R4580 under cs4398? Is it good idea to replace them as well?
 Thank you for your help._

 

There are many great opamps you could use aslong as they are compatible with the circuit.

 Not all opamps are for output some would be buffers for the Mic and line.

 The AD8620 is a pretty good opamp for audio.


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## Vitaliy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ROBSCIX* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There are many great opamps you could use aslong as they are compatible with the circuit.

 Not all opamps are for output some would be buffers for the Mic and line.

 The AD8620 is a pretty good opamp for audio._

 


 So were should I put AD8620 and were OPA2727? 
 I plan to use 8620 for front and central/sub channels. And 2727 for the rest.
 Is here reason to replace U4,U5,U7 and U8. Looks like they are for recording. Am I right?


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## ROBSCIX

I think I should still have a DX in my parts room. Let me have a look at it and post back.

 The opamp shoudl be very close to the output for the fronts. This should give you a idea of which one to change for the fronts, center sub..etc.

 This is actually a great card for the price, just a shame they didn't put opamps sockets on the card.
 I will post more info later after I find and have a look at this card. Unless somebody posts the needed information first.


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## Vitaliy

Any idea about JP2 socket? What it could be?
 Is it possible to solder another optic SPDIF in parallel to existing?


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## ROBSCIX

I am not sure right off hand.

 You could solder in another S/PDIF but it would just be another extension to the existing one.


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## Vitaliy

That is the idea to separate LINE/MIC-In and SPDIF-Out.
 U4 and U7 is ADC input buffer. Could replacing them with OPA2727 improve recording quality? What function of U5 and U8 (4580). Is it MIC/LINE/AUX-in preamp? Could it be one is preamp when another - mic boost?


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## ROBSCIX

Seperating them for connection could be very simple but IIRC, they are all linked in the drivers so it is not like you can get input from the line and use the S/Pdif output at the same time..for instance. You could add seperate connection all going to this "muti-jack" for the sake of convience.

 Recording quality has a great deal to do with the ADC itself. The opamps would be used as a Pre-buffer but replacing it with a higher quality unit could do some good.
 The 5532's have been used in everything you could think of that would need audio opamps, including professional grade studio mixers. Many designers still use them as part of their design tool box.
 It may be a possible mic boost through hardware or the mic boost may have been done through software.


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## Vitaliy

Did not think this way. Thank you. 
 Is any difference for recording quality if I use line-in(back), line-in(front) or AUX-in connectors? Same for MIC (back or front).

 By the way. What is REAL pinout of front panel connector. I found different info from different sourses 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 So, is OPA2727 good enough reason to replace 5532 ADC OpAmps?


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## ROBSCIX

Well, some don't like using the front panel conenctors because of the long cable that runs from the card to the front panel header. This cable could possibly pick up EMI/RFI in some systems. You may not notice any difference, if you tested.

 I don't know the pin out right off hand. It should be a set standard. A;lthough IIRC< there is the AC'97 standard and the intel HD standard. I am unsure what is different between these two standards.

 I have never used the 2727 opamp so I am unsure about it. The 5532 my be more then enough for a buffer for this input. 

 Hope this helps.


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## Vitaliy

It helped.
 If I use Xonar with Pioneer VSX-818 AV receiver what output gives better quality? Analog 5.1 or optic SPDIF? befor and after OPAMPs replacing. My undertanding is CS4398, CS4362 and 4x 5532 working only for analog 7.1. Am I right?


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## Vitaliy

I removed 5532 DAC AMPS (exept back channel) and before solder new just tested in PC. Somehow I had audio output on both (analog and digital) outputs in just lower volume. Back channel was louder. Is it normal?


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## ROBSCIX

My guess would be the analog side. Try both and use your ears to compare. The DAC's on the S/Pdif input section on many receivers are just low-mid grade at best.
 Most modern soundcards will provide better sound quality using an analog connection then the same system using a digital one. Try both and use your ears to decide...


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## Vitaliy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ROBSCIX* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My guess would be the analog side. Try both and use your ears to compare. The DAC's on the S/Pdif input section on many receivers are just low-mid grade at best.
 Most modern soundcards will provide better sound quality using an analog connection then the same system using a digital one. Try both and use your ears to decide..._

 

Hi
 Playing with it now. Put 2727 on surround. Lost right side channel. Remove OPAMP - have chennel back. Going to try another 2727. It works fine on center/sub.


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## Vitaliy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *better* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The OPA2727 is a superior opamp to the AD8620 for audio... try it maybe, ROBSCIX etc., before saying things. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

So, you are saing the OPA2727 better then AD8620 for this application.
 I put 2727 for surround and center/sub channels. They are working fine.
 What would you recommend for front? 2727 or 8620?
 Any idea why I have analog output without OPAMPs?


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## rds

The front channel op-amp has a 16V supply, so keep that in mind when replacing it and when selecting output capacitors. For example the 6.3V blackgates I was using earlier in this thread are not a good idea (now I'm using solens).


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## Vitaliy

Too late 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 All replaced with 2727 and did not blowup 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Works fine. Question is for how long 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If will die, replace with 8620.


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## ROBSCIX

Great stuff.


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## rds

Here's something kinda funny looking:


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## ROBSCIX

Hey whatever works. What position are those caps at?


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## rds

Those are the DC blocking output caps for the analog stereo out.


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## ROBSCIX

Thats what I thought.

 Many times those types of caps can be redundant as depending on what your using next in the chain they may have them on the inputs.

 Did you notice an improvment in sound quality?


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## ROBSCIX

Whats the cap manufactuer?


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## rds

Most quality SS amps don't have any kind of DC blocking built in and assume that your source is not putting out DC. I'd never recommend bypassing DC blocking caps on your source.
 The caps are Solen MKP

 Right after switching I felt it sounded a little nicer than the black gates. But it's really hard to quantify that kind of thing. Anyways, in its current state the card sounds very nice.


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## ROBSCIX

You have to check with a DMM to make sure the source is not putting out any DC. I said in the last post it depends on what your using next in the chain.

 I thought those maybe solens. I have never used them so I wasn't sure.

 Did you upgrade the opamps also?


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## 454Casull

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rds* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most quality SS amps don't have any kind of DC blocking built in and assume that your source is not putting out DC._

 

Where did you hear this?


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## rds

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *454Casull* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where did you hear this?_

 

god


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## Vitaliy

Did anybody try to replace ADC OPAMPs?
 What function of R4580?


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## Yangorang

Any advice on replacing the 4580s and 5532 for the front panel connectors?

 I tried replacing the 4580s with LME49722 but somehow or another it seems they are unstable in that position. (hearing noise in headphones)
 I tried the AD8620 in the 4580 position as well since I noticed the LME49722 is not unity gain stable but I'm still hearing noise...

 One odd behavior I have noted is that I hear extra noise in my headphones when my computer is active; for example when I scroll though this page with my mouse, copy a file to a USB flash drive, or there is hard drive activity I can hear extra noise in my headphones (interference from motherboard causing ringing ???)
 Besides the annoying noise floor headphone audio sounds quite good through modded Xonar front panel connections though...
 Any ideas for troubleshooting?


 EDIT: nvm I think my front panel audio is just noisy in general from PSU noise and such...I guess I'll try to shield the front panel audio cable or something...


 EDIT: Yay weird fuzzy noises are gone once I got myself a nice shielded cable: FRONTX - Bulkhead/panel mount Headphone & Microphone - supports Intel AC 97 audio header/pinout
 So my Xonar is now officially working with AD8620 or LME49722 in all opamp positions. I basically have AD8620s in all front channel audio positions, and LME49722 in the side and rear positions. Also got 1200uF Nichicons on the power. Sounds great!


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## krisno

has anyone tried the moon discrete opamps on the xonar d1? 

 Can it be done? It would be an interesting one...


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## gurusan

I have a Xonar DX coming soon and would like to change the 2 channel output opamp with a LME49860MA that I have spare here. Can someone confirm the red opamp is the correct one to change?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Yangorang* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice little guide there. I think the Xonar is a great card and it's just even greater with a few simple mods.

 Here's a little diagram:





 RED - Front 2 channels
 BLU - Surround channels
 GRN - Front panel audio I think...

 I've replaced the RED and BLU 5532s with LME49722 op-amps and I think it works pretty well.

 Added in some 2200uF power supply caps from Nichicon and the bass response is certainly improved._


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## rds

I can confirm it, but I think you might be asking for someone other than me


----------



## gurusan

Nope I trust you. You sold me my first SS millet kit 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Looking forward to modding this card


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## gurusan

Just successfully changed the opamp with a LME49860MA and it sounds great 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There was also a little interference at very high volumes which has now disappeared. I also put 2 470uF Panny FMs on the floppy connector input.

 Thanks for all the pics and info to help me along. I think I might change out the coupling caps next. I just need to see what rswww has available


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## ROBSCIX

You can just bypass the coupling caps altogether as they are never good for the sound but in some cases they are a " necessary evil"
 If you bypass then you will have to measure for DC as they are there to block any DC but provided the DC is negligable they can be bypassed.
 In many cases they are redundant also as the input on your next device my have them also.


----------



## rds

The circuit has output caps because it is implemented in a way that requires them. Just because you don't measure DC doesn't mean there'll never be DC.
 Only bypass them if you're ok with potentially frying your headphones and/or speakers.


----------



## ROBSCIX

Hmm, I have seen many sources modified in this way and never heard of them suddenly developing a large DC problem when there wasn't one previously. It doesn't work like that....

 Not sure how the card would fry your speaker or phones in any case as you would obviously have an amplifier in between and many modern amplifier receivers, etc will usually have coupling caps on the inputs stopping and DC issue that suddenly develops. However, I have never heard of this happening to anybody...I guess you have?


----------



## germanium

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rds* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The circuit has output caps because it is implemented in a way that requires them. Just because you don't measure DC doesn't mean there'll never be DC.
 Only bypass them if you're ok with potentially frying your headphones and/or speakers._

 

That is a possability if you are driving a direct coupled amp of any sort in which case you may not only fry the speakers or headphones but the amp also. Most amps nowdays are direct coupled & some are D.C. coupled. The chances of that happening though are extremely low as long as you measure the D.C. offset before hooking to anything after modding. The opamps are not really failure prone. They are being operated at well below thier capabilities as are the voltage regulators on the soundcard. Many soundcards come fully D.C. coupled from the factory including the Xonar D2/PM-D2X. These cards in fact use the same exact opamp combo as the STX-ST which are capacitor coupled. The only difference is the package of the opamp not the opamp itself.


----------



## patrocle

Hi everyone,
 Does someone knows the meaning of those not used but connected pinout ? (in the green rectangle)
 Or where Can I find the shematic for it?





 I'd like to get the 4 Spdif stereo OUT (FRONT, SIDE, BACK, SW/C) like I was able to do it on Creative Sound Blaster following this shematic (Spdif0 OUT, Spdif1 OUT, Spdif2 OUT, Spdif3 OUT) : 







 Thanks for any help !


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## pong38

Hi all,

 I just bought the Xonar D1 and I am very pleased with it.
 But after reading this great posting about upgrading the Xonar card I'd like to give it a try.
 My goal is to get the best possible stereo only sound from my setup.
 The Xonar card is connected from the front output to my Yamaha receiver.

 Soldering is not a problem but getting the goodies here in Holland for a stereo upgrade could be an adventure.
 And while there has been quit a few upgrades after the start of this topic, I hope that someone is willing to make a shopping list with part-no's and manfact. names. It def would help me a lot.

 Thanks in advance


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## ROBSCIX

I would suggest changing out the front channel opamp first as this will improve your stereo output. This is a good place to start then if you want get into the more involved modifications.


----------



## pong38

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ROBSCIX* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would suggest changing out the front channel opamp first as this will improve your stereo output. This is a good place to start then if you want get into the more involved modifications._

 

I totally agree with you and I want to take one step at a time so that I can understand or better, hear what a change will do with the sound.

 I never liked flying a DC9 so I go straight for the Space Shuttle... meaning... what's the best opamp to choose ?


----------



## Yangorang

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pong38* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I totally agree with you and I want to take one step at a time so that I can understand or better, hear what a change will do with the sound.

 I never liked flying a DC9 so I go straight for the Space Shuttle... meaning... what's the best opamp to choose ?_

 

The whole "best opamp" thing is very much based on personal opinion, but personally I like the LME49722 and AD8620 quite a bit. I hear the Burr-Browns are good too but I haven't tried any of them yet.


----------



## pong38

I'd like to start with the AD8620 and I found them quit cheap on ebay. But they will be shipped from Honk Kong or mainland China.
 Or those any good or el-cheapo rebuilds ?

2pcs, AD8620 SMT Dual Op Amp IC'S IC CHIP NEW - eBay Delay, Echo Reverb, Effects Pedals, Parts Accessories, Guitar, Musical Instruments. (Eindtijd 25-apr-10 12:41:16 CEST)

 And, sorry for the n00b question, what is the difference with the A and AR version of the 8620 ? Which one to take ?


----------



## Yangorang

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pong38* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'd like to start with the AD8620 and I found them quit cheap on ebay. But they will be shipped from Honk Kong or mainland China.
 Or those any good or el-cheapo rebuilds ?

2pcs, AD8620 SMT Dual Op Amp IC'S IC CHIP NEW - eBay Delay, Echo Reverb, Effects Pedals, Parts Accessories, Guitar, Musical Instruments. (Eindtijd 25-apr-10 12:41:16 CEST)

 And, sorry for the n00b question, what is the difference with the A and AR version of the 8620 ? Which one to take ?_

 

I actually don't know of an A version, only of the 8620AR and 8620ARZ versions. I think the only differences between those two are RoHs certification. Then there's the BR and BRZ which have a few little differences in the datasheet specs from the AR/ARZ.

 I don't really know of any common knockoffs of AD8620s or anything....but you never know the Chinese have amazed me at times...
 Samples can be requested for the AD8620ARZ and the LME49722MA so you could try that as well.


----------



## altcomp

I am a USA distributor and I have in my stock AD8620ARZ about 300 Pcs.
  Feel free to contact me for a quote.
   
  tim @ checkstox.com


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## Tacoboy

I just ordered a Xonar DX, where can I find the latest info on doing mods on the Xonar DX.


----------



## Tacoboy

Quote: 





patrocle said:


> Hi everyone,
> Does someone knows the meaning of those not used but connected pinout ? (in the green rectangle)
> Or where Can I find the shematic for it?
> 
> ...


 

 I would "guess" that is were they hook up the card to test it, after it is built and before it goes into the box.


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## TsukikoChan

Hi guys,
   
  I'm thinking of modding my DX card recently and started reading over this thread again and I've got a few wee questions if anyone can help.
   
  I got a list of various caps and op-amps that can be gotten for this but some of the suggestions I cannot find. For instance, the initial post mentioned using nichicon muse kw caps for step 2 and hz caps for step 3. I can't find these, I can easily find KZ, FW, ES, DB/GB, FG and KG in the UK and I was wondering if the HZ and KW are just rebranded now? I'm not really big into my audio mods (this will be my first one), and I don't mod very often, so I'm somewhat confused between the different types of caps that can be used.
   
  There were a few OP-AMPs mentioned and I was wondering what should one look for in OP-AMPs? I found a nice guide for the different sound off different OP-AMPs, and I was curious what one should aim for when replacing the front channel OP-AMP. Does one look for better treble, better clarity, better bass? Considering I will be using a speaker/decoder system with my card, I don't think I will need additional bass off my front channel speakers if I will have a subwoofer channel.
   
  On that note, do most of the modders here replace more than just the frontchannel OP-AMPs? I mean, is there benefit in replacing the side channels, back channels, sub, center or front port chips? What would be the best suggestions if I were to start replacing extra chips.
   
  Last question (I promise!), is there a more clearer photo for the power supply mod? Or would I be correct in assuming that the negative pins of both caps are connected to both center wires and the positive pins to the outside wires of the power supply?
   
  Thanks tonnes guys! Really looking forward to what I can improve in my sound system here!
  Holly


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## rds

Before we get started I want to say that: 
  1.  From a technical standpoint an improvement in the circuitry based on post #1 is questionable to say the least
  2.  Cap choice is an area of audio black magic (like so many areas of audio).  It generally defies any kind of quantitative description and so improvements exist in the mind/ears of the user rather than in technical benchmarks
  3.  Swapping op-amps is a questionable practice - particularly when all the details of a circuit are not known (ie here)
  4.  Regardless modding can be fun 
  Quote: 





tsukikochan said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm thinking of modding my DX card recently and started reading over this thread again and I've got a few wee questions if anyone can help.
> 
> I got a list of various caps and op-amps that can be gotten for this but some of the suggestions I cannot find. For instance, the initial post mentioned using nichicon muse kw caps for step 2 and hz caps for step 3. I can't find these, I can easily find KZ, FW, ES, DB/GB, FG and KG in the UK and I was wondering if the HZ and KW are just rebranded now? I'm not really big into my audio mods (this will be my first one), and I don't mod very often, so I'm somewhat confused between the different types of caps that can be used.






   
  No those are different caps.  I chose hz for their low esr and kw because they are compact audio grade caps.  Yes, cap choice can be very confusing - I suggest looking for low esr for step 3 and audio grade compact for step 2.
    
  Quote:


tsukikochan said:


> There were a few OP-AMPs mentioned and I was wondering what should one look for in OP-AMPs? I found a nice guide for the different sound off different OP-AMPs, and I was curious what one should aim for when replacing the front channel OP-AMP. Does one look for better treble, better clarity, better bass? Considering I will be using a speaker/decoder system with my card, I don't think I will need additional bass off my front channel speakers if I will have a subwoofer channel.


 

 I'd suggest using an op-amp with similar characteristics to the one you're replacing (which is this one: http://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/product.do?id=NE5532AD8R2G).  Here is a similar op-amp with better specs: http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM4562.html#Overview  I suggest using this one.  It also happens to be the op-amp used in the xonar stx.
  As far as bass, treble, clarity, etc I'll leave that to threads that discuss (often in painstaking detail) the purely subjective merits of various op-amps.  Take these threads with a healthy dose of salt.
   
   
   

   
  Quote: 





tsukikochan said:


> On that note, do most of the modders here replace more than just the frontchannel OP-AMPs? I mean, is there benefit in replacing the side channels, back channels, sub, center or front port chips? What would be the best suggestions if I were to start replacing extra chips.






  Why replace other channels?  Well because you're going to use them I guess ...in my case I only listen in stereo.
  The suggestions for replacements would be the same as the front channel.
   
   
  Quote: 





tsukikochan said:


> Last question (I promise!), is there a more clearer photo for the power supply mod? Or would I be correct in assuming that the negative pins of both caps are connected to both center wires and the positive pins to the outside wires of the power supply?
> 
> Thanks tonnes guys! Really looking forward to what I can improve in my sound system here!
> Holly






  Sorry there isn't.  The two center pins are not connected together (I think that's what you're asking).  However, as I remember they are connected in the board circuitry so it wouldn't really matter.  Anyways, to be safe do not connect them together.
  You're welcome and have fun!  ...and try not to kill your card, cause that's not much of a mod


----------



## TsukikoChan

Thanks rds for the comments ^^ it really helped me. modding is definately fun, i've done it for arcade sticks and games controllers but nothing as expensive or sophisticated as a sound card.
   
  Will do, i'll look into caps that fall under that category for audio. is it ok if i check with you guys from a few of my finds before i order any? I can find the ones you mentioned for option1 but im confused by your statement about bypassing them. did you mean you used more than just 2 ES caps for that option?^^
   
  oouu, it's also somewhat cheap :O
   
  that's true. i think since i intend to be using surround sound more often with my pc, i shall replace all the op-amps for the 8 channels. which brings me to the question, will the lm4562 work for all 8 channels as it looks as though the original op-amps for the surround channels have different ids than the front channel one (or i'm misreading them from the photo).
   
  Ah, on further inspection they aren't connected in the photo as you say. It's just that the solder joint on the closest center pin (from the camera) is positioned so perfectly in the photo it made me think it was soldered onto the third pin too. my bad!
   
  yup, i definately don't want to kill this card :3 it's served me well these last few months.


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## Danthrax

I think I'm going with this op-amp:
   
  http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=LM4562MA-ND
   
  But I have no idea what caps to get (really clueless) So if anyone can point me to some caps on digikey or some other site that also has the opamps (want to save on shipping) that would be great.
   
  edit: Ebay would be ok too it seems there is more of a selection there still not 100% sure what I;m looking for in a cap though...


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## hknymz

i need correct rates for xonar dx caps ? (uF and V) cant see


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## hknymz

*Nichicon KW decoupling caps*, and *Black Gate NX *hi q coupling caps:what is the rates bro  ? (uF and V)
  
  Quote: 





rds said:


> I finally cleaned up my early hack job of this card.
> I have a soic opa2107 mounted. Nichicon KW decoupling caps, and Black Gate NX hi q coupling caps.
> Also Nichicon ultra low esr HZ 1200uF caps decoupling the power supplies.
> 
> ...


----------



## hknymz

come on


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## hknymz

ok, got it what i need 
   
  waiting opamps and caps for modding


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## simcom

Please help!
   
  I changed the op-amp and op-amp power caps - tested ok.
   
  Then I added the capacitors at the floppy power connector, and I lost the right channel!  I removed those caps and still no right channel...  swap the old op-amp back and still no sound at right channel!
   
  What should I do now? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I got the ADC chips and it sounded great before right channel died tho


----------



## Yangorang

It is highly unlikely that screwing up the caps at the floppy power connector would result in the loss of only one channel of audio, as they are just power caps for everything on the card.  It is more likely that you've messed up the coupling caps or something else in the signal path of the left/right opamp.


----------



## simcom

But I didn't touch the coupling caps yet... just op-amp, the op-amp power caps, and added main power cap.  What can I do troubleshoot?
   
  Oh and it's not software because I tried to uninstall the driver and reinstall, and did the in-software test where is says "left-channel" then "right-channel".  Also not the speakers because I tried them with my MP3 player and it works.
   
  Thanks for your help!


----------



## Yangorang

Troubleshooting is...difficult...perhaps post a picture of your card in this thread indicating which parts you have replaced and we can get some experienced people in on this discussion.


----------



## hknymz

are you sure caps and opamps working? where did you bought them? i will mod same card very very soon, waiting my opamps, please post a picture.
   
  thnaks


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## razvitm

Am I the only one who found out that this soundcard produces a verry annoying sin wave if you try to play 40KHz sine wave through it? Just run Coolpro or Adobe Audition, set your soundcard to 24 bit 192KHz, start a new audio file in coolpro/audition at 32bit 192khz, generate a sin wave starting from 20KHz and ending up at 90KHz, at -1dB, connect headphones on soundcard output and hit play, and listen.. as the main frequency rises, a byproduct frequency produced by the card lowers in frequency... this cannot be seen in normal music because it doesn't contain a so high frequency component, but it makes me wonder, is it because of the dac? is it because of the output opamp? can someone who replaced the output opamp can confirm improvement? or am i the only one who can get this result? I own a creative xtreme gamer and it doesn't do this, and also a elite pro and it doesn't do this either... Does the Xonar D2 have this problem also? what about the essence? I found out about this when i was trying to measure a mic's frequency response, and i played a sweep from 1Hz to 90KHz that lasted 10 minutes using the xonar dx through sennheiser hd 650 and in front of the senn was a mic connected to a e-mu0404usb on a different computer recording the sound and the inverse frequency generated by the xonar can be both heared and seen in the recording... If anybody confirms, then the asus xonar DX should not be labeled 192KHz soundcard.


----------



## razvitm

Can anyone owning a xonar dx try this little experiment?
  Connect headphones to the line out
  Start coolpro or adobe audition
  Create a new project using 192KHz sampling rate
  Generate a sin wave sweep from 20Hz to 90KHz lasting 2 or 3 minutes
  Play the sweep and listen the frequncy going up untill it reaches 18KHz or 19KHz and you can't hear it anymore
  And then keep listening... 
  After 40KHz or so my card starts to produce distortions that are audible in the headphones and have large amplitude...
  This does not happen on any of my other soundcards (e-mu0404, elite-pro, xtreme-gamer)


----------



## hknymz

Quote: 





yangorang said:


> Nice little guide there. I think the Xonar is a great card and it's just even greater with a few simple mods.
> 
> Here's a little diagram:
> 
> ...


 
   
  RED - Front 2 channels
 BLU - Surround channels
 GRN - Front panel audio I think...
  
  hi, i think you are wrong because i am remove 1 opamp on blue section, but all channels still working ! (back, side, center/sub). i think blue section is for front panel opamps.


----------



## Bigmac52

FAO all Asus Xonar DX sound card owners.
   
  Hi Guys hope you can help me. I have a Xonar DX card but the cap at CE 34 fell off!!  and probably caused my MB to short out and take the PSU with it!!
   
  What I need is info on a  replacement cap to repair the sound card on the cheap as it is out of warranty and Asus do not want to help me by supplying the requested info.
   
  As this is a surface mount cap will need one with wiresto allow me to hand solder into place, any advice would be welcome.
  Thanks in advance
   
  Best Regards John


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## hknymz

Do you have a photo?


----------



## xfinrodx

Did the power caps with 1200uf Nichicons and was feeling brave so I tried the coupling caps.  Man those buggers are hard to get off.  I tore off a pad!  The trace leading to the pad lifted though - I scraped it gently, tinned it then soldered the positive leg of the new cap to it.  With a magnifying glass I couldn't even tell for sure if it had made a connection, but I could see a slight disturbance in the tinning on the cap lead.  Turned out to have made contact adequately!  These mods brightened the sound significantly and sharpened the bass response (gave it more control or whatever.  The notes are noticeably more well defined than before.)  Thanks for the project!!
   
  This is the part that went right:
  https://plus.google.com/u/0/105920392830010622934/posts/Sr5ezVLgGQ7


----------



## Bigmac52

hknymz said:


> Do you have a photo?



Hi for a photo see first photo at top of this thread the Cap I need info on is shown to the left of the black aux input header at "ce34" markings on top of cap read "82 100 25A".
Thanks John


----------



## Kerblooy

Very helpful information, thanks!


----------



## joyman

Hi @ll,
  first time,
  i`ve been reading the post because i got an asus xonar dx,so i want to mod it.
  some questions:
  if i play pc games is necessary to change all op amps for sourround,or just the front one?
  if all relateded mod caps measures are respected,do brand matters?
  which are the caps standard measures?
  thanks for take time for answering noobs.
  
   
  *update question:
  can 2 LME49990 be mounted in to asus xonar dx pcb,with this one?:  
   
  http://cimarrontechnology.com/single-to-dualop-ampadapter-so8toso8versionpn031101a.aspx
   
  *do this need any cap replacement or it can be without any problem?


----------



## jbkappirossi

hello, i got an xonar D1 and i was just wondering if any of you guys think the output power is a little weak?
  My onboard not only does the same volume at only 20% but also sounds better to my ears. When i play a game i have to set to volume it's max to be able to hear things normal and for music it's the same thing. It also has weak base. I'm using a sennheiser PC-320 witch has an impedance of 32ohm.
   
  I'm a noob when it comes to electronics, but i can solder, so was thinking about changing the capacitors. Ive looked at the first post, but why change only 2 when there is a row of 4 capacitors? and my D1 seems to have a different power circuitry. Does anyone know what is what or witch i need to change?
   
  Also does it have any negative effect if you replace 25v 22uF caps with 50v 22uF once? My brother still has a few Silmic II but they are 50v 22uF. 
   
  thanks.


----------



## Yettee

Hi,
 Fantastic modding post 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





... thanks OP 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Ok, Im wondering if someone can help me out here...
 I have the Xonar DX 7.1 rev1.02... unfortunately, at some point I removed the card and whilst removing the power supply adapter,
 I was stupid enough to catch and snap off the capacitor that sits on *CE36*...
 I have searched and searched but cannot find any information on the capacitor I need to replace the snapped off one...
 yes I know, I could most likely attach the original capacitor... if only I had it...
 (the wife loves to clean and throw things away, at my annoyance)
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Can someone help me, please... by telling me what capacitor I need to sit on space *CE36* 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 also I notice that all the capacitors have a little seat... the seat for my missing capacitor is also missing...
 would this come with the capacitor or could I buy another to replace... if needed, of course!
  
 Much appreciated


----------



## thomasrc

Hello guys,
  
 I want to replace op-amps in my Xonar DX soundcard to LME49860 and I have some questions...
  

Are these the op-amps what I have to replace?
 http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/9059/xonar.jpg
What kind of power supply caps did you suggest for LME49860?
Do I need anything else?
  
 Btw I looked this picture and I think these are the power supply caps. Am I correct or I just misunderstanding something?


----------



## TuKay

Hi,
  
 could someone please help me to identify the part I broke of my dx?
  
 https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/19797483/2014-03-06%2016.22.42.jpg


----------



## Cheesewilly

I broke that exact same part Tukay! Did you ever fix it?


----------



## SaturnusDJ

Can someone link to good caps for decoupling please?

 I wouldn't like to make the mistake of buying fake ones.

 Maybe these ones are real?
 Is MFD good?


----------



## SaturnusDJ

Kick!


----------



## aL110

Hi guys, I just found this forum and I thought someone might be able to help me with my Xonar D1-
  
 A capacitor fell-off (D1) and I can't find any info about it or anywhere to find a replacement-
  
 It's at 'CE4', and it has printed on the top: [220 / CFK. / 8C5]
  
 Thanks!
  
 -aL
  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/39e0m6tmcxklbzt/P1030261.JPG?dl=0


----------



## SlimBo

hi Everybody
 i need help with my Asus Xonar DS
 i want to short some caps for better sound clarity but i don't know which one...
 i have done it whith my X-fi and the difference it's amazing
 i thank you for your help in advance 
 sorry for my english


----------

