# iBasso D2-Viper (Pictures, Impressions, and Reviews): Read the Rules!



## souperman

Well, it seems like my last thread was a bit premature, and resulted in many pages of posts that had nothing to do with anything (including some unsubstantiated thread-crappers), and as jamato advised, I have started a new one and renamed the old one. Anyways, the D2-Vipers are surfacing so please, everybody who is getting theirs, post your pictures, impressions, and reviews here!

*Rules:*
 1) Let's keep the questions down to a minimum and use PM's so people interested don't have to read through countless pages of "Can you compare the D2 to ____?" rather than an answer that people can provide through their impressions, and reviews.
 2) Let's keep the thread-crapping down to zero. As was noticed in the other thread, there have been many people who decided they didn't like the D2-Viper already (without even hearing or seeing it) and wanted to go ahead and attack iBasso directly for "copying" the Pico with no substantiated evidence. We don't know for sure yet, so please, keep your posts to yourself if you have nothing contributing to say.
 3) Post your pictures, impressions, and reviews!


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## onlychild

Sounds great so far. Still letting it burn in (with my new Ultrasone 780), before I post any impressions. Looks great though. Hard to believe it was only $200. 

 Not really happy with the 780s right now (where's the bass?), and highs kind of sharp. Hopefully burn-in will make the bass appear.

 My image sound so much better with the D2. Sharper bass, bigger soundstage, etc.

 Will post more impressions after burn-in.

 P.S. Its really hard to get pictures posted with the 97k size limit!!


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## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *onlychild* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds great so far. Still letting it burn in (with my new Ultrasone 780), before I post any impressions. Looks great though. Hard to believe it was only $200. 

 Not really happy with the 780s right now (where's the bass?), and highs kind of sharp. Hopefully burn-in will make the bass appear.

 My image sound so much better with the D2. Sharper bass, bigger soundstage, etc.

 Will post more impressions after burn-in.

 P.S. Its really hard to get pictures posted with the 97k size limit!!_

 

Did it come with a USB cable?If so what type?


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## circuithero

Just got mines less then an hour ago! can't believe how small it is.

 It comes with a cheap generic cable.


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *circuithero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got mines less then an hour ago! can't believe how small it is.

 It comes with a cheap generic cable._

 

Pics and first impressions!


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## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *circuithero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got mines less then an hour ago! can't believe how small it is.

 It comes with a cheap generic cable._

 

Thanks for the information.


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## tdogzthmn

Whats the price?


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## jamato8

199 plus shipping, which tends to be fast.


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## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Pics and first impressions!_

 

Well I'm pretty much a noob lol and this is my first amp, but soundstage has increased greatly for me, there's quite a bit more bass, and I'm hearing things I haven't heard before.

 Sorry if I'm no help 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also the DAC part works great, setup in less then a minute and its 100x better then my onboard laptop soundcard.


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## circuithero

Oh yea there's a popping sound when you turn it on and a similar popping sound when you change the gain. Is that normal?


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## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *circuithero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh yea there's a popping sound when you turn it on and a similar popping sound when you change the gain. Is that normal?_

 

some amps tend to have that, it is just like a sudden rush of "electricity" kinda thing and makes a pop.

 if u use really high end iem with like ipod headphone jack, whenever u turn it on, it will make a "pop" too.


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## Chronos

Jeez those are some nice pics, what camera + lens? Those pics make it look even better and I have one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Shipping was quite fast. Packaging was cheap but the D2 is really small and looks nice. Will update on sound later


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chronos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Jeez those are some nice pics, what camera + lens? Those pics make it look even better and I have one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Shipping was quite fast. Packaging was cheap but the D2 is really small and looks nice. Will update on sound later_

 

Pictures are from their own website.


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## greenzee

I spent a couple of hours listening time last night, Zune 30 with predominantly 192kbps WMA rips. 

 I said this in an earlier post, and I'll say it again, this thing has some really nice detail and separation. I'd go so far as to say it is a "crisp" sounding amp, not really warm, but certainly with a nice bit of low mid and bass. I do not have any particularly current-starved headphones, unless you count de-podded (w/33ohm resistors) IM716's, but this had no trouble driving any phone I threw at it, including SR60's, KSC75's, PortaPro's, the 716's, and various other IEM's. Gobs of power for my purposes, so far. 

 I don't love the gain switch, but it is relatively docile in terms of how it colors the sound, which I do like. It is just that, a gain switch.

 Someone else said they noticed more detail in the music than they had previously, and I think I agree with that. Especially listening to something like the Dave Matthews Band last night, I noticed detail like the percussive pick on guitar string sound that frankly never really stood out before. Could be I just wasn't listening I suppose, but nonetheless, it was noticeable.

 The gain switch does provide a nice "pop" when you switch it on. I have no headphone noise whatsoever from the volume pot, however it has a significant audible "click" when turned on. Nothing wrong in the least with that, I'd say it feels like quality.

 I plugged the D2 into my XP work PC and it recognized it immediately. I didn't spend anytime listening via the DAC however.

 Overall build quality is fine, not great. Overall the unit construction and presentation (that font and faceplate reminds me of 1970's era Kustom PA Amps) seems a little chintzy to me, but then again, the unit only costs a couple of bills, and I'd rather have the quality on the inside, than a pretty box on the outside.

 The blue LED will literally light up a dark room. For those of you on the coast give us your impressions for use as an impromptu lighthouse or beacon. I suspect it will work just fine.

 I have a GoVibe 6 and a ZeroAudiocraft at home to compare. The GV6 is warmer, and does not have quite the "umph" that the D2 has. The ZA is not that much different than the D2, to be honest. The ZA does not appear to have the same soundstage, but the overall color is similar, with crisp highs, and full low-mid. Probably not as much bass with the ZA however, at least to my ear. 

 I'm looking forward to spending a good deal of quality time with the D2 the next few days. Overall, initial impressions are that it is a terrific value, with excellent overall sound.


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## TSi

Order Date: Saturday March 1st, 2008
 Shipping Date: Sunday March 2nd, 2008 (according to their file)
 Shipping Method: UPS
 Arrival Date: Thursday March 6th, 2008 12:32 PM Eastern

 Pictures!!! (everybody loves pictures)


 

 




 

 




 



 As you can see, the packaging wasn't crazy amazing, but then it was secure, everything was there, the styrofoam worked well, the box was intact, nothing was broken.
 Once I open the box, the power adapter, usb cable, manual and leather case was right under the 1st layer of styrofoam. Right under the leather case, is the VIPER

 It works right out of the box, no charging needed (I'm guessing they personally test each one before packing it). I plugged it directly into my Samsung YPP2.

 Right when you turn it on, there is a "click" sound, not a pop, but like a wheel click. This basically tells you that your D2 is "on". I did not hear any popping sound like the 1st reviewer.
 When you turn off the D2, there is a "pop" sound, same with going from low to high gain. This sound resembles... when you are on an airplane and your ear pops. I am not worrying, I'm not really gonna use the high gain, and when turning it off, it isn't loud.
 LED - wow, this blue light is hella BRIGHT. I can say, if you look into it, u can blind urself. I do not have the chance to "light my room" yet, since it is still midday, but I can see it happening. The back red LED isnt as bright, but its there for sure.

*1st Impression: (Amp for YPP2)*
 There is not much hissing (right now I'm using friend's Apple In Ears, will be doing another review when my SuperFreQs arrive). It is "there" but then you only really notice it when you turn the knob up a lot, basically to volume that is NOT suitable for me.
 When you listen to the music, the hissing basically is covered by the music, so you will not hear it at all (even at the bare minimum volume). This really is impressive because I'm gonna say this now: I'm not gonna be listening to silence, so the hissing is out of the question.

 Sound - Maybe it is just me, but then I wasn't throughly appealed by the "increase" of the music quality, maybe this is because I am using the headphone jack of the player. I, like the other users, notice an increase in performance in the lower end, the bass is cleaner, sharper (in terms of "right on") In terms of the higher end, I have not noticed anything yet, its because I'm not using decent IEMs, so i dont blame the D2. 

*1st Impression: (Amp + DAC for Macbook) USB*
 Hissing, it is still there, but this time, it is even quieter. Won't go to much other than "if you concentrate, it'll be there, if u listen to music, it'll be gone"

 Sound - This is where it "hit me dead smack with a wad of 100$ bills". I was really impressed with the sound from the D2 using the USB input. I was actually surprised with the sound... coming from the FLAC of the Ultrasone CD. Man, I feel like crying, I'm hearing a lot more than what I've heard with my SuperFi 3's plugged into the headphone jack on my mac, YES, even with Apple In Ears... I swear, I can hear the foot taps of the musicians, and their swallowing. amazing. The lower end is a lot more crisp than not using anything at all (or comparing to using my logitech z10 through usb as a dac and then plugging my headphones into it). From using this on my mac, I actually hear a difference in the higher end of the spectrum. It feels a lot cleaner. (refer to track 5 of the cd) I can even hear the piano player making noise when he plays, pretty amazing. I hear a lot more details, such as the person sitting in the 5th row of the audience that keeps fidgeting and making his chair squeek.

*I will be slowly updating each bit by bit.*


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## Rav

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greenzee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I spent a couple of hours listening time last night, Zune 30 with predominantly 192kbps WMA rips. 

 I said this in an earlier post, and I'll say it again, this thing has some really nice detail and separation. I'd go so far as to say it is a "crisp" sounding amp, not really warm, but certainly with a nice bit of low mid and bass. I do not have any particularly current-starved headphones, unless you count de-podded (w/33ohm resistors) IM716's, but this had no trouble driving any phone I threw at it, including SR60's, KSC75's, PortaPro's, the 716's, and various other IEM's. Gobs of power for my purposes, so far. 

 I don't love the gain switch, but it is relatively docile in terms of how it colors the sound, which I do like. It is just that, a gain switch._

 

Do you notice any hiss with IEMs at all?


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## Downer

How does the DAC sound ???

 Hopefully, this isn't a out of topic question...


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## greenzee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rav* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you notice any hiss with IEMs at all?_

 

I did not.


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## Rav

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greenzee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did not._

 

That sounds promising


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## Ozric

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greenzee* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The blue LED will literally light up a dark room. For those of you on the coast give us your impressions for use as an impromptu lighthouse or beacon. I suspect it will work just fine._

 

That's what struck me when I saw the manufacturer's pics. I am awaiting shipment of my D2. On my upcoming flight I think my fellow passengers might be slightly annoyed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think an orange / amber LED would be nice to have, if I can get it changed by someone with more soldering skills.


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## souperman

So I just got mine, and I'll be the first ones to post some internal pics 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 Hm...I don't know why, but only one of the screws comes off when I use my 1/16 hex. Anyone else notice that?

 Also, does anyone notice that if you have your headphones plugged in, and the AC adapter plugged in, but the D2 turned off, you hear a lot of static? If I unplug the AC adapter the static disappears.


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## onlychild

yes, I get the same static issue as well.


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## Downer

Quote:


 Also, does anyone notice that if you have your headphones plugged in, and the AC adapter plugged in, but the D2 turned off, you hear a lot of static? If I unplug the AC adapter the static disappears. 
 

Does it go away if you turn on the amp or is there a constant static when it is being charged ???


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Downer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does it go away if you turn on the amp or is there a constant static when it is being charged ???_

 

It seems like it has to do with being connected to the computer via USB. When I turn it on it disappears. So this is when the static is there, amp is off, AC power connected, headphones connected, USB connected to computer. Then either unplugging the USB or the power cord or turning the amp on, the static disappears. Anyone know why? Not that it bothers me much because I don't listen to headphones when there is no music 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


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## powertoold

I just got mine too. I love the bass! I am using the amp with my diyMod right now. It sounds great, just as I expected, heh.

 The build quality is much better than I expected. It feels light and solid. The gain switch does make a really loud thump when you switch from low to high... it would probably kill my ears with the FreQs. As for hiss, there isn't much with my FreQs - not an amount that you would be annoyed or notice at all when music is playing (even classical).


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## ndskyz

First impression of the D2 vs the P2. First off I think they both sound very good..bone stock. I will say the D2 seems to have a LOT more power output. vs the P2. With the P2 I plugged in my HD-280 Pros and turn the vol pot up to about the 12 oclock postion. Sound was rich and detailed and the bass switch was on the lowest setting, and the gain on the lowest setting. With the D2 the gain was on the lowest setting. And at about the (vol knob) 10 oclock postion the sound was rich and on par with the P2..at the 12 ..it hurt my ears 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Gonna let the D2 charge up and burn in. It's smaller than what I thought. longer than a P2 by about 1/4" and about 1/2" smaller in width. Im surprised at how small it is.


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## powertoold

Using the amp when you are charging is not a good idea. There is a lot of static when it is charging... I hope when it is fully charged, there is no more static / hiss.

 *** Ok it is confirmed, once the battery is finished charging (green light), there is no more static.


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Using the amp when you are charging is not a good idea. There is a lot of static when it is charging... I hope when it is fully charged, there is no more static / hiss.

 *** Ok it is confirmed, once the battery is finished charging (green light), there is no more static._

 

Is this with the amp on or off. When my amp is off and I'm done charging there is always static. (this is with the power cord still plugged in).


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## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is this with the amp on or off. When my amp is off and I'm done charging there is always static. (this is with the power cord still plugged in)._

 

When the amp is off, then yes, there is a tiny bit of noise (sounds sort of like a fluorescent bulb), but that shouldn't matter because it goes away once the amp is on. The amp makes a lot more noise when you touch it because they probably used the case as the ground.


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When the amp is off, then yes, there is a tiny bit of noise (sounds sort of like a fluorescent bulb), but that shouldn't matter because it goes away once the amp is on. The amp makes a lot more noise when you touch it because they probably used the case as the ground._

 

I agree with you that it doesn't matter, but I'm just wondering why there is static when it's plugged into the wall and the amp is off, but no static when I turn it on.


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## runnin17

Does anyone also have a Pico that they can compare to the D2? Also, which is supposed to sound better, the D1 or the D2?


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## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree with you that it doesn't matter, but I'm just wondering why there is static when it's plugged into the wall and the amp is off, but no static when I turn it on._

 

Ok you're right, when the USB is plugged and the amp is off, there is a LOT of noise heh.

 I am trying to get my DAC to work, but no sound seems to come out.


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## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok you're right, when the USB is plugged and the amp is off, there is a LOT of noise heh.

 I am trying to get my DAC to work, but no sound seems to come out._

 

I had to go in and disable my on board audio DAC and that forced my pc to send the audio to the D2


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## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I had to go in and disable my on board audio DAC and that forced my pc to send the audio to the D2_

 

I got it working. I just had to replug the input without the USB and then replug the USB while the amp was on.


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *runnin17* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone also have a Pico that they can compare to the D2? Also, which is supposed to sound better, the D1 or the D2?_

 

Let's keep these types of questions to a minimum. There will be comparisons when people who have both listen to them. We don't need 50 million posts asking to compare the D2 to this or that.

 So far the D2 has a very nice bass sound signature. I'm still trying to figure out how to open the case. Maybe I don't have the right tools, but it seems like a 1/64 hex should be able to open it. I took out one screw, but my screwdriver bit would just turn in the other screws without actually catching on to it. I don't think I need a bigger hex since the 5/64 hex is too big. If anyone who has it has any luck opening this thing to roll opamps let me know.


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## powertoold

These are just some initial pre-burn-in (which I don't believe in much, heh) impressions:

 These impressions were made with the DAC.

 With HD580s, the D2 isn't that great. It doesn't sound any better than out of my Audigy 2ZS Hot-Rodded with LT1469, but at around 1 o'clock high gain, it is louder than my Audigy (but I don't listen at such a volume). Take my impressions with a grain of salt because I am picky about music and my hot-rodded Audigy is already a good source 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Although I don't think the D2 is great with headphones, it is very good with my FreQs. The bass is full and powerful. The highs are great, and my FreQs don't sound as muffled. There is amazing imaging; it really sounds like the instruments are coming from a single point in 3D space with some songs. 

 That's all I have now. Maybe my opinions will change regarding the D2 and HD580. I usually only use my FreQs anyway, so it's not much of a deal.


 *** I'll try to take pictures of the inside.

 *** Unfortunately, my hex-key set doesn't have a key small enough for the D2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 *** Lol, it is so bright with headphones and doesn't have much bass (and I'm not a basshead).


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## meusickfrek

Got my viper, it came at 1230pm, stuff usually comes around 6-7 pm? anyway I think it sound great! out of box, I'll wait for some burn in for real impressions. OK one problem, Kind of a big one, I have an old beater laptop, Compaq Evo N610c by bro gave me, when I use the USB it clips, I used a newer Toshiba and everything was fine. I tried, was using WMP and then tries iTunes and it seemed to fix it but then it started again, I used MediaMonkey, itunes, WMP, and QuickPlayer from cd and from the C: drive, still the same, any suggestions OTHER THEN BUY A NEW COMPUTER? I know it's a piece, that's why I got a DAC w/my Viper.


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## powertoold

The battle of the D's:






 The D1 (not sure what opamps are in there) also suffers from having little bass with the HD580s. The D2 sounds cleaner and better with a larger soundstage. All I can really say for now. The differences between similar amps are difficult to objectify.

 I think the D bass is perfect with IEMs like the FreQs.


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The battle of the D's:






 The D1 (not sure what opamps are in there) also suffers from having little bass with the HD580s. The D2 sounds cleaner and better with a larger soundstage. All I can really say for now. The differences between similar amps are difficult to objectify.

 I think the D bass is perfect with IEMs like the FreQs._

 

I actually found the D1 with my favorite opamp combo to be brighter and less clear than the D2. The D2 has VERY good bass/bass punch which I really enjoy compared to the D1 which was lacking it. It's also more liquidy sounding in the midrange IMO.


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## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I actually found the D1 with my favorite opamp combo to be brighter and less clear than the D2. The D2 has VERY good bass/bass punch which I really enjoy compared to the D1 which was lacking it. It's also more liquidy sounding in the midrange IMO._

 

Are you using the HD580 with the D2? I feel like there's no bass. I tried watching LOTR:ROTK, and during scenes where I know there's suppose to be bass rumbling (when the eye is destroyed and starts crumbling), there is very little. When I use my FreQs, the bass for the scene is great. There is that rumbling impact like in the theaters.


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you using the HD580 with the D2? I feel like there's no bass. I tried watching LOTR:ROTK, and during scenes where I know there's suppose to be bass rumbling (when the eye is destroyed and starts crumbling), there is very little. When I use my FreQs, the bass for the scene is great. There is that rumbling impact like in the theaters._

 

Well personally that is part of the HD580's nature. It is a warm headphone, but it won't give you rumbling bass. My 780's actually give me that. I just watched some clips of LOTR: ROTK with the D2 and HFI-780. I never thought of the HD580 to ever give me a rumbling sensation.


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## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well personally that is part of the HD580's nature. It is a warm headphone, but it won't give you rumbling bass. My 780's actually give me that. I just watched some clips of LOTR: ROTK with the D2 and HFI-780. I never thought of the HD580 to ever give me a rumbling sensation._

 

You're right that the low bass is a characteristic of the HD580s, but I don't agree that it's a warm headphone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks

 *** Oh geez, the D2 sounds so good with the FreQs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	













 *** Oh geez, the bass is so nice and smooth with the FreQs


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## Audiophil

Thanks for your helpful comments, nice forum!
 I just ordered one D2, hoping the shipping to Germany will work ...

 As the website of iBasso does not provide too much information, does anybody know, if charging over USB is possible (like the Meier-Amp's can do)?

 BR


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## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Audiophil* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your helpful comments, nice forum!
 I just ordered one D2, hoping the shipping to Germany will work ...

 As the website of iBasso does not provide too much information, does anybody know, if charging over USB is possible (like the Meier-Amp's can do)?

 BR_

 

No, the charging cannot be done over USB. The charging circuit is 12V and USB only provides 5.5V. 

 There is no word on how long the battery lasts yet.


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## crewchief

I know we are trying to not ask comparison questions with other amps, but I want an impression with a K701. If someone has tried yet or do you think it has enough current to drive them decently? If you guys think it would do rather OK then I want to order one, if not I will continue my search.


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *crewchief* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know we are trying to not ask comparison questions with other amps, but I want an impression with a K701. If someone has tried yet or do you think it has enough current to drive them decently? If you guys think it would do rather OK then I want to order one, if not I will continue my search._

 

Personally I think driving K701's with a portable is a joke. You'll be able to play your music at ear-blasting levels, but without the finesse that a semi-good desktop amp would give you.


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## meusickfrek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meusickfrek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my viper, it came at 1230pm, stuff usually comes around 6-7 pm? anyway I think it sound great! out of box, I'll wait for some burn in for real impressions. OK one problem, Kind of a big one, I have an old beater laptop, Compaq Evo N610c by bro gave me, when I use the USB it clips, I used a newer Toshiba and everything was fine. I tried, was using WMP and then tries iTunes and it seemed to fix it but then it started again, I used MediaMonkey, itunes, WMP, and QuickPlayer from cd and from the C: drive, still the same, any suggestions OTHER THEN BUY A NEW COMPUTER? I know it's a piece, that's why I got a DAC w/my Viper._

 

anyone know if upgrading RAM or Music player will help this situation? I'm running Windows 2003 Pro and a Pentium 4


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## powertoold

A P4 should be enough. I'm not sure why your USB is dying. Perhaps you should try to reformat your computer before buying new hardware.


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meusickfrek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_anyone know if upgrading RAM or Music player will help this situation? I'm running Windows 2003 Pro and a Pentium 4_

 

It could be a number of reasons. It could be that the bus itself has problems.


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## meusickfrek

Thanks, I will try something later, I'm turning in thesis tomorrow and a little worried about messing with the computer right now. I think the Viper has great clarity but does lack some bass with the hd580's. With the Atrios the bass thumps which they did not do straight from the iA7 so I know the bass is there, burning in now.


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meusickfrek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, I will try something later, I'm turning in thesis tomorrow and a little worried about messing with the computer right now. I think the Viper has great clarity but does lack some bass with the hd580's. With the Atrios the bass thumps which they did not do straight from the iA7 so I know the bass is there, burning in now._

 

Like I said, the HD580's aren't supposed to give you bass thump 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





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## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, the charging cannot be done over USB. The charging circuit is 12V and USB only provides 5.5V. 

 There is no word on how long the battery lasts yet._

 

The paper it comes with says it should last about 15 hours per charge.

 Here's some pics of mines 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





























 The led at night





 Finally, my setup


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *circuithero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The paper it comes with says it should last about 15 hours per charge.

 Here's some pics of mines 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





























 The led at night





 Finally, my setup



_

 

Nice pics. Any luck in opening them up


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## jamato8

What can't you guys open up?


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## circuithero

No allen wrenches


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## Jaw007

Very nice pic.Received mine an hour ago.


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## powertoold

This is my favorite image so far! It really shows how shiny it is (like the Pico):


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## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What can't you guys open up?_

 

jam shoot me a PM if you can help, but I stated in the earlier posts that only one of my screws comes out with a 1/16 hex bit on my screw driver. The other ones just allow my bit to rotate in them freely as if they were circular. The 5/64 hex bit is too large for them. I really want to open this baby up to see what's inside, but I can't 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_jam shoot me a PM if you can help, but I stated in the earlier posts that only one of my screws comes out with a 1/16 hex bit on my screw driver. The other ones just allow my bit to rotate in them freely as if they were circular. The 5/64 hex bit is too large for them. I really want to open this baby up to see what's inside, but I can't 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

Might be metric.


----------



## jamato8

Yes, as suggested above, a trip to the hardware store may be in order as it might be in metric. Metrics are available so. . . Maybe they should include one with the unit since it does come with dips.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, as suggested above, a trip to the hardware store may be in order as it might be in metric. Metrics are available so. . . Maybe they should include one with the unit since it does come with dips._

 

But it's weird that one of them comes out no problem.


----------



## jamato8

Well that is strange. Does it fit snug or is there just enough catching so that the wrench can turn it?


----------



## powertoold

I have a hex-key set, but the ones on the D2 are too small. I can open the D1 since it has bigger screws.

 *** You should make sure you find a key that fits perfectly or you'll risk damaging the screws. Then, you won't be able to open it at all!


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well that is strange. Does it fit snug or is there just enough catching so that the wrench can turn it?_

 

It definitely caught snugly. There wasn't a single turn where it was rotating freely inside it. Very odd. Hopefully somebody else with better tools can be of help. This is so ridiculous. I got the D2 so I could open it up and play with it. But my tools are holding me back! Nice pictures though everyone!


----------



## jamato8

Is it a torx key or an allen wrench? It looks like an allen and if the size is off it must be a metric I would think and you don't want to round the internal.

 Make sure your allen wrench isn't worn. I have a couple I have used so much they are actually worn and I have to file the end down some to get back to good clean edges.

 In the above I meant torx as it is different. I actually like torx more than allen as it is much harder to mess up and I have even used a screw driver carefully to remove torx when I couldn't find my torx wrenches.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is it a hex key or an allen wrench?_

 

I believe they are synonymous.


----------



## souperman

Is there a difference? I googled it:

Hex key - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia and it seems like it's the same thing. I have a screwdriver with exchangeable tips, and one of them is a 1/16 hexagonal tip that works for only one screw.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *crewchief* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know we are trying to not ask comparison questions with other amps, but I want an impression with a K701. If someone has tried yet or do you think it has enough current to drive them decently? If you guys think it would do rather OK then I want to order one, if not I will continue my search._

 

Depends on your definition of "decently" I hooked up my D2 to my Pc (used the DAC) and just for giggles Plugged my 701's into it. For reference I normally only listen to my 701's on my home rig with an SACD player, and old Sony AVR with a great headphone jack. 701's with the D2...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I was really truely suprised how smooth..synergy comes to mind the combo was. Volume is not a factor, on the low gain setting 12 oclock is tolerable, and 1 oclock is WAY too loud for me. But I didnt hear any clipping in either postion. You know some say you shouldnt buy a portable amp to drive 701's but Im inclined to believe that there are a few out there that can do a pretty good job at it. As good as a dedicated home amp.. No. Keep in mind my D2 has only been in my hands about 8 hours now.


----------



## Capunk

So far the DAC performances still a mystery... 
 any idea how good is it comparing to iMod?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Depends on your definition of "decently" I hooked up my D2 to my Pc (used the DAC) and just for giggles Plugged my 701's into it. For reference I normally only listen to my 701's on my home rig with an SACD player, and old Sony AVR with a great headphone jack. 701's with the D2...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was really truely suprised how smooth..synergy comes to mind the combo was. Volume is not a factor, on the low gain setting 12 oclock is tolerable, and 1 oclock is WAY too loud for me. But I didnt hear any clipping in either postion. You know some say you shouldnt buy a portable amp to drive 701's but Im inclined to believe that there are a few out there that can do a pretty good job at it. As good as a dedicated home amp.. No. Keep in mind my D2 has only been in my hands about 8 hours now._

 

The P2, which the amp of the D2 is modeled after, has a good current output so the D2 should handle most all phones, which is nice.


----------



## powertoold

The hiss that the D2 makes when it is charging is annoying when you use sensitive IEMs. You can't hear it when using headphones.

 I think I am getting used to the HD580 bass with the D2 now. It isn't too bad 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It's sort of bright right now though.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The P2, which the amp of the D2 is modeled after, has a good current output so the D2 should handle most all phones, which is nice._

 

I agree. The P2 could drive my 701's..with the volume pot cranked. As I mentioned before. I think the D2 has a lil bit more umph under the hood than the P2...Just MHO. I would say the D2 sounded better than my P2 when driving the 701's but that (may have) had more to do with the DAC (source) than anything else.


----------



## jamato8

Well I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't optimize something, nothing stands still or you get passed and in this business, that doesn't take long.


----------



## Chronos

Sorry this is my first amp so I can't say much, but I can say that with my Denon AH-D2000's using the DAC, they brightened the headphones up a bit, increased sound stage significantly, and you can definitely hear a lot more sounds than before. I can hear background singers in one of my songs that I had no idea about, but can be clearly and precisely heard. Imaging is improved.

 The bass is also a lot more controlled. My bass used to hit hard almost uncontrollably with the D2000's, but now they're much tighter, and a lot more well rounded. (Maybe this difference is why the D2000 bass debate exists) Its like the bass was smoothed out and the impact spread out (sorry not sure how to describe it). My highs were occasionally piercing and it also seemed to control that better now making it seem warmer. Mids are brightened up and very liquid, smooth, and musical.

 This is my first amp so it could just be the difference from crappy USB soundcard ampless to D2's amp + DAC, but these are the differences I noticed. I'm really curious how these will effect my UE Super.fi 5 EB.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chronos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sorry this is my first amp so I can't say much, but I can say that with my Denon AH-D2000's using the DAC, they brightened the headphones up a bit, increased sound stage significantly, and you can definitely hear a lot more sounds than before. I can hear background singers in one of my songs that I had no idea about, but can be clearly and precisely heard. Imaging is improved.

 The bass is also a lot more controlled. My bass used to hit hard almost uncontrollably with the D2000's, but now they're much tighter, and a lot more well rounded. (Maybe this difference is why the D2000 bass debate exists) Its like the bass was smoothed out and the impact spread out (sorry not sure how to describe it). My highs were occasionally piercing and it also seemed to control that better now making it seem warmer. Mids are brightened up and very liquid, smooth, and musical.

 This is my first amp so it could just be the difference from crappy USB soundcard ampless to D2's amp + DAC, but these are the differences I noticed. I'm really curious how these will effect my UE Super.fi 5 EB._

 

Thanks for the impression of the amp. I think you stepped into one of the better portables around based upon my experience with the P2. I look forward to more impressions.


----------



## onlychild

I'm experiencing a lot of buzzing noise from the D2 when using it as a DAC. This is happening with the D2 on and the volume knob turned up 1/4 way or more and the music is not playing (buzzing is also there when the unit is turned off, but others are experiencing that to). It does not matter if I am charging it or not. When I unplug the USB from the back of the D2, all the buzzing goes away. The buzzing starts as soon as the USB plug touches the USB connection on the back of the D2. 

 Anyone else experiencing this?


----------



## jamato8

It would seem you have some problem with your source. I would try it on another computer with a USB and see if it still does it.


----------



## ack_0220

Just ordered mine, will ship on Monday.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Has any of you guys tried the DAC on ASIO4ALL or USBASIO? Is it compatible? I have yet to get a LOD for it, i've seen some pretty nice Jena cables build by stevenkelby but it cost more than half of the D2 and i am just listening it through a YUIN PK1, you guys think is justifiable to get it, will it make a whole lot of difference?


----------



## ndskyz

I have about 4 hours of good listening on the D2 now Half of those are with my 701's Listening to it now on PC> CDP to D2 DAC. Wynton Marsalis "Sunflowers". Extremely acurate and detailed. This particular song has several types of horns (trumpet, Flute, Sax, trombone) And the D2 does a fine dob of seperating each horn. The upright Bass is thumping, yet very controlled and tight. The piano is light and airy. Im really enjoying this lil amp.


----------



## onlychild

Jamato8, you were right. It was my source. I am not hearing the buzz from my work laptop. This is really interesting because the cheap Dell work laptop running XP, there is no noise, and my more expensive Sony home laptop running Vista is causing a lot of buzzing (both running iTunes). I will try to solve the problem this weekend. 

 P.S. I am loving this amp/dac. Great bass, mids, highs. The bass is very tight and getting better with more burn-in (currently at 12 hours) and I love that the highs are not harsh. Well worth the $200 cost.


----------



## powertoold

Is it bad if I used the amp a little bit and charge? Should I just drain the battery out every time and then recharge?


----------



## jamato8

I would drain it the first time to form it correctly and then recharge when not mobile. The cycle of 500 or so is based on full discharge or any number of partial discharges, that will add up to a full discharge so the less you fully discharge and recharge the battery, the longer the battery will last.

 Every 30 charges or so it is good to discharge and do a full recharge.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would drain it the first time to form it correctly and then recharge when not mobile. The cycle of 500 or so is based on full discharge or any number of partial discharges, that will add up to a full discharge so the less you fully discharge and recharge the battery, the longer the battery will last.

 Every 30 charges or so it is good to discharge and do a full recharge._

 

Thanks for your explanation, so does that mean if I drain the battery by 1/2 every time, then I would theoretically get 1000 charge cycles ?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I don't like this "TWO D-2 THREADS" thing going on. It's worse than the HFI 780 thread and the ALO modded 780 thread, which at least are two different products.

 I vote we merge them.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/iba...ml#post3911183

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* 
_Yesterday, 11:26 PM #514

 My tracking started working 24 hours before I got it. It took about 41 hours hours to get here - when it got to UPS at 8am 3/5 in China that was about 5pm 3/4 for us in Colorado. When it got here 10am 3/6 that was about 1am 3/7 in China.

 I have about 20 minutes on it right now, and from doing A/B comparison with my Predator says the D2 should burn-in to be a great amp/dac. It has strong bass out of the box that is a little uncontrolled, and it isn't quite as open and relaxed yet so it sounds a little boxy or colored in the midbass and lower treble. Out of the box it sounds much better than the predator did out of the box. Then again, my Headsix and Lyrix sounded great out of the box, yet the Predator left those behind in the dust as it burned-in past 500-600 hours, and by 1100 hours was even better when I shipped it to Skylab for a review.

 So, D2-Viper will be a great amp I am sure, but it needs to burn-in for a while before I try to do another A/B with any other amps._


----------



## powertoold

I vote Merge the D2 thread into this one, since it's more of an impressions thread instead of "hey, D2 is coming out soon".


----------



## jamato8

I think we should merge everything. I could work in ICU and my car at the same time. Oh, I guess you probably don't want to go that far. 

 Let the chant go up!! merge. . merge . . merge . . merge. . . urge . . I mean merge. . .


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your explanation, so does that mean if I drain the battery by 1/2 every time, then I would theoretically get 1000 charge cycles ?_

 

Yes, that is the idea.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't like this "TWO D-2 THREADS" thing going on. It's worse than the HFI 780 thread and the ALO modded 780 thread, which at least are two different products.

 I vote we merge them.

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/iba...ml#post3911183_

 

Sorry Larry,

 but I have to disagree. The other thread is full of junk posts that matter nothing to the D2-Viper itself. For a newbie to come in and have to read through that many whiny posts is pure hell in my opinion.

 Oh yeah...SOMEONE OPEN THESE UP!!!


----------



## jamato8

Has anyone found the allen wrench that works? I emailed iBasso but heard nothing back. I would imagine they are metric but I am not sure.


----------



## Asr

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh yeah...SOMEONE OPEN THESE UP!!!_

 

A full 13-piece hex key set is only $4.96 at your nearest Home Depot.

 Edit: er, that is if 1 of them fits the D2-Viper hex screws.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I'll be home in an hour, and will let you know the size.


----------



## meusickfrek

Whiny posts? these threads are for entertainment, your criticisms are getting a little heavy. Give it a break.


----------



## MaloS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meusickfrek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whiny posts? these threads are for entertainment, your criticisms are getting a little heavy. Give it a break._

 

We are looking for information, not lots of questions that are trivially expected. If you want to know if something works well with something - find someone who has both and ask in a PM (or ask to post about it). The junk posts take up considerable reading time.


----------



## meusickfrek

I understand but when you give a blanket statement like you offend everyone who has posted, maybe I shouldn't take offense. sorry for being off topic.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MaloS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_We are looking for information, not lots of questions that are trivially expected. If you want to know if something works well with something - find someone who has both and ask in a PM (or ask to post about it). The junk posts take up considerable reading time._

 

I disagree with that, because then I have to answer the same question 20 times in PM for questions that should poted and answered for everyone to see.


----------



## Jammin72

Has anyone attempted sending 24bit files to the Viper? I would love to use the box for my PC rig but need 24/96 for my own recordings. Thanks!


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I disagree with that, because then I have to answer the same question 20 times in PM for questions that should poted and answered for everyone to see._

 

Yes, I do agree with that Larry, but can you see my reasoning that those questions are also posted in the other thread 20 times and answered 40 times? It's really up to the mods, and if they see fit to combine, then I hope they do it.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meusickfrek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Whiny posts? these threads are for entertainment, your criticisms are getting a little heavy. Give it a break._

 

Maybe you are taking my comments a bit too wholeheartedly, and I see no reason to attack me. I wanted to point out that there in fact are whiny posts in the other thread. I may have hinted a bit of negativity in my wording, but I did not mean to criticize it. I am not afraid to say that I have done the same thing at times myself. My point in making this thread was so that there could be a funnel of real information for those that are looking for concrete impressions, instead of browsing through pages of people asking when their tracking number is going to work or saying that theirs doesn't work or that iBasso isn't responding to their e-mails. I just browsed through the last few pages, and those posts are a majority. If you want to interpret my comment as regarding every single post in that thread, then by all means, interpret away. Plus it has nothing to do with this thread, so I'll just hope that this just ends here.


 Regardless, my D2-Viper has 50 hours of burn in so far. I feel like the stock D2 has turned from a warm amp to a more neutral amp, at least in my opinion. I'll post more later.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jammin72* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone attempted sending 24bit files to the Viper? I would love to use the box for my PC rig but need 24/96 for my own recordings. Thanks!_

 

I thought this was like most of the other USB DAC and you feed it 16 bit. I don't know of other 24 bit USB excepting the DAC1 which can take 24/96. I think this upconverts to 24/96, but now I am not sure I ever saw anywhere that it said that. It uses the same chips as PICO, so don't both of them take 16bit USB and upconvert? Neither one should be 24 bit native.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I'll be posting my 24 hours impressions tonight.


----------



## powertoold

I managed to open up the D2. The screws are actually proprietary Torx T6s. The driver cost me $5 at the Ace Hardware 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Pictures to come in a second.

 Here are the pictures of the inside! (they are labeled with IMG):

Index of /d2

 There is an NE5532 and LT1364. The case is actually made of two halves (the top is detached from the bottom).


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I managed to open up the D2. The screws are actually proprietary Torx T6s. The driver cost me $5 at the Ace Hardware 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Pictures to come in a second._

 

Alright, I'll see if I can get my hands on one.


----------



## jamato8

I wondered if they were Torx as they have used them in the past. How could it be proprietary if you can buy the driver at Ace? Anyway, I have the drivers. Going driven someday soon.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wondered if they were Torx as they have used them in the past. How could it be proprietary if you can buy the driver at Ace? Anyway, I have the drivers. Going driven someday soon._

 

Sorry, I call it proprietary because it's a brand name


----------



## brainsalad

powertoold - thanks for the pics.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I managed to open up the D2. The screws are actually proprietary Torx T6s. The driver cost me $5 at the Ace Hardware 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Pictures to come in a second.

 Here are the pictures of the inside! (they are labeled with IMG):

Index of /d2

 There is an NE5532 and LT1364. The case is actually made of two halves (the top is detached from the bottom)._

 

Thanks for the insides! Looks like the NE5532 needs a good switching 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I wonder why they still went with the NE5532, after the 6234 was so popular in the D1. Oh well who knows.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Anyone see an up-sampling chip in there?


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone see an up-sampling chip in there? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I'm sure the D2 doesn't up-sample. Just believe there's an up-sampling chip in there, and you'll get the same effect


----------



## Andrew_WOT

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone see an up-sampling chip in there? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nope, there isn't any, but the rest of the hardware looks very impressive. Someone please compare it to Predator and Pico.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I know, I was just dreaming...


----------



## dap_pad

Does the pico or predictor have an upsampling chip???


----------



## jamato8

The Pico does. Upsampling is not a prerequisite to good sound. Frankly, I don't always like upsampling. My Elaborate Dac, has none and doesn't even have filtering and it blows everything I have ever heard away.


----------



## sanity8me

i'm surprised people are mainly requesting comparisons to the pico.. wouldn't the meier 2move be a better comparison since it's only ~$40 more and was very highly regarded in skylab's 36 amp roundup.. the pico w/DAC is a whopping ~$300 more

 the d2-viper and the govibe petite are basically the only 2 amps that are holding me back from buying the 2move....errr....i'm hoping we get some good reviews/comparisons soon


----------



## PlasticChicken

Hi, I'm looking to buy my first headphone amp pretty soon and I wanted to ask if the D1 or the D2 is better for my DT770 and MDR-7509hd.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PlasticChicken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, I'm looking to buy my first headphone amp pretty soon and I wanted to ask if the D1 or the D2 is better for my DT770 and MDR-7509hd._

 

IF you are only going to use USB, get the D2.


----------



## PlasticChicken

I was gonna use it for my laptop mostly. So the D2 is a better choice? And the dt770 has lots of bass and using an amp won't make it overwhelming right.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PlasticChicken* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was gonna use it for my laptop mostly. So the D2 is a better choice? And the dt770 has lots of bass and using an amp won't make it overwhelming right._

 

No, in my opinion the D2 will tighten up the bass a lot more and make it less sloppy compared to your laptop.


----------



## sanity8me

souperman,

 i see that you used to own the original meier move and now the D2-viper.. can you compare the two? 

 i hate to ask a comparison question, but i don't understand why people reading the thread would not want to know this vital info...


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sanity8me* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_souperman,

 i see that you used to own the original meier move and now the D2-viper.. can you compare the two? 

 i hate to ask a comparison question, but i don't understand why people reading the thread would not want to know this vital info..._

 

I did not like the Move very much.


----------



## Asr

In regards to the technical comparison between the D2-Viper and Pico, some of you should keep in mind that Justin has fully disclosed the key aspects of the Pico's implementation.

*D2-Viper*:
 - DAC: Wolfson WM8740
 - USB-I2S conversion: PCM2706
 - op-amp: TI NE5532 (cheap & prolific)
 - battery type: dual 4.7 mAh Li polymer
 - multiple other aspects unknown
 - assembled in China

*Pico*:
 - DAC: Wolfson WM8740
 - ASRC: Analog Devices AD1896 (de-clocked to 96 kHz)
 - USB-I2S conversion: PCM2707 (er, unadvertised) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 - op-amp: Analog Devices AD8397 (built-in buffer) (not as cheap as NE5532)
 - battery type: 8.4V Li-Ion w/ smart charging, 20 hours
 - voltage swing: 8V
 - maximum output current: 250 mA
 - maximum output power: 500 mW
 - two-board assembly
 - built & assembled in USA


----------



## Sieg9198

How long can the battery hold with a full charge??


----------



## circuithero

Approximately 15 hours according to iBasso.


----------



## Andrew_WOT

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_*Pico*:
 - DAC: Wolfson WM8740
 - ASRC: Analog Devices AD1896 (de-clocked to 96 kHz)
 - USB-I2S conversion: PCM2707 (er, unadvertised) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 - op-amp: Analog Devices AD8397 (built-in buffer) (not as cheap as NE5532)
 - battery type: 8.4V Li-Ion w/ smart charging, 20 hours
 - voltage swing: 8V
 - maximum output current: 250 mA
 - maximum output power: 500 mW
 - two-board assembly
 - built & assembled in USA_

 

Asr, thanks a lot for that info. You are wonderful, but you already know that.


----------



## powertoold

Anyone have this problem:

 Sometimes, when the D2 is charging, the red LED in the back blinks, and every time it blinks, there is an audible "click" noise with my FreQs.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone have this problem:

 Sometimes, when the D2 is charging, the red LED in the back blinks, and every time it blinks, there is an audible "click" noise with my FreQs._

 

Hm, I don't have that happen to mine. Weird. I guess the best way to use it is to use it straight from battery. It's the cleanest power source anyways.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hm, I don't have that happen to mine. Weird. I guess the best way to use it is to use it straight from battery. It's the cleanest power source anyways._

 

I don't think it's audible with headphones. I think the battery charging goes in stages: solid red, blinking red, then green.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't think it's audible with headphones. I think the battery charging goes in stages: solid red, blinking red, then green._

 

Ah, I see. I used my X3i's with it no problem though.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, I see. I used my X3i's with it no problem though._

 

Does your charging red light blink (it has a subtle blink, so you have to look directly at it)? 

 Also, I tried feeding 24bit 96khz FLACs through the USB, and it works fine. Did someone say it isn't supposed to work?


----------



## Andrew_WOT

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does your charging red light blink (it has a subtle blink, so you have to look directly at it)? 

 Also, I tried feeding 24bit 96khz FLACs through the USB, and it works fine. Did someone say it isn't supposed to work?_

 

Everything over 16/48 is just gets discarded, you might be loosing some SQ this way. Launch asiocaps or asio4all it'll show max cap of the device.


----------



## TSi

I have ran the Viper at 11'00 position for about a day using battery only, it lasts 15 hours. So basically iBasso isnt wrong about it.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have ran the Viper at 11'00 position for about a day using battery only, it lasts 15 hours. So basically iBasso isnt wrong about it._

 

Sounds like enough for me. With opamp rolling though, it may be less or more depending on the opamps you roll in.


----------



## powertoold

I put in AD8599 (IC2) and ADA4841 (IC7 - main opamp). They are pretty low power opamps, so I hope I'll get longer battery. I feel like I need the battery to last as long as possible since they don't warranty the battery, heh.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I put in AD8599 (IC2) and ADA4841 (IC7 - main opamp). They are pretty low power opamps, so I hope I'll get longer battery. I feel like I need the battery to last as long as possible since they don't warranty the battery, heh._

 

How do you like it with your new combo? Got any more opamps to try?


----------



## powertoold

I haven't really experimented, but I do like the stock opamps. I tried the LT1469 for about 5 minutes but felt it was muddier than the 1364. 

 I don't think I've lost much from the stock to ADA4841 switch (I don't feel like it's any worse), but I'm not listening analytically. I think it's a good idea to use a low noise opamp with IEMs. With the 4841, I can barely hear any hiss with my sensitive FreQs. Also, the low and high gain seem to have the same amount of hiss when I made the switch. Now, I am always using high gain because it sounds better for some reason (like more authoritative?).

 My Opamp supply is as follows:

 LT1057
 LT1364
 LT1469
 LT6241
 LT6234
 LMH6643
 AD8397
 AD8599
 AD8656
 AD4841
 LM4562
 OPA2111KP


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Sounds like enough for me. With opamp rolling though, it may be less or more depending on the opamps you roll in._

 

well, i dont see anyone "avg" running more than 15 hours =D

 let say u wake up at 730, go to work by 830, u have... till 1130 night time to listen to music on the viper. if its less / more from rolling the opamp, i dont think it'll affect it TOO much.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't really experimented, but I do like the stock opamps. I tried the LT1469 for about 5 minutes but felt it was muddier than the 1364. 

 I don't think I've lost much from the stock to ADA4841 switch (I don't feel like it's any worse), but I'm not listening analytically. I think it's a good idea to use a low noise opamp with IEMs. With the 4841, I can barely hear any hiss with my sensitive FreQs. Also, the low and high gain seem to have the same amount of hiss when I made the switch. *Now, I am always using high gain because it sounds better for some reason (like more authoritative?).*

 My Opamp supply is as follows:

 LT1057
 LT1364
 LT1469
 LT6241
 LT6234
 LMH6643
 AD8397
 AD8599
 AD8656
 AD4841
 LM4562
 OPA2111KP_

 

I definitely agree with that statement.


----------



## yuheng

guys, who can give us a comparison betweem D1 and D2???

 thks and really appreciate on that.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I only have about 40 hours (checked my log minus the time it was off today) on the D2 so far, and right now the D1 (AD743 x2 LR/LMH6643 x2 buffer/LTC6241HV DAC) kicks the D2's butt.

 The D2 bass is still heavy and sloppy, and now the highs are a little tipped up vs the mids. I really shouldn't comment until I have 200-300 hours on the D2, but I already posted how it sounded out of the box.


----------



## powertoold

Ya, compared to my roommate's D1 (probably with LT1364 and LT4562 buffer or something), the D2 is on par at best. With the D1, there is more bass that permeates the music - not something I always like, but it's more of a preference. 

 I can't imagine the D2 getting any better, but that's because I don't believe in amp burn in (won't believe it until it happens for me hehe).

 I don't think the D2 beats the P2 in terms of ampage from what I've read. No one is like WhoA!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ya, compared to my roommate's D1 (probably with LT1364 and LT4562 buffer or something), the D2 is on par at best. With the D1, there is more bass that permeates the music - not something I always like, but it's more of a preference. 

 I can't imagine the D2 getting any better, but that's because I don't believe in amp burn in (won't believe it until it happens for me hehe).

 I don't think the D2 beats the P2 in terms of ampage from what I've read. No one is like WhoA!_

 

I've heard too many amps burn-in to not believe it. The RSA Predator has the most dramatic change with burn-in of any amp I have ever heard.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ya, compared to my roommate's D1 (probably with LT1364 and LT4562 buffer or something), the D2 is on par at best. With the D1, there is more bass that permeates the music - not something I always like, but it's more of a preference. 

 I can't imagine the D2 getting any better, but that's because I don't believe in amp burn in (won't believe it until it happens for me hehe).

 I don't think the D2 beats the P2 in terms of ampage from what I've read. No one is like WhoA!_

 

I'll have to disagree. From my memory, I actually prefer the D2 stock a lot more than my best personal combo for the D1.


----------



## powertoold

With sound, I don't think you can trust your memory 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The differences between portable amps are subtle, and your memory can be based on many different tracks at varying volumes. It's impossible to do a comparison from memory with portable amps. I compared the D1 and D2 yesterday, and it was difficult for me to tell the differences. The best way to do it is listen to one amp for a day or two, then immediately switch to the other amp and listening to same music.


----------



## voxdei_aer

Do you think the D2 will put out enough for my DT770 250ohm? How's the bass on this amp with demanding headphones? Or would I be better off with the Meier 2Move?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With sound, I don't think you can trust your memory 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The differences between portable amps are subtle, and your memory can be based on many different tracks at varying volumes. It's impossible to do a comparison from memory with portable amps. I compared the D1 and D2 yesterday, and it was difficult for me to tell the differences. The best way to do it is listen to one amp for a day or two, then immediately switch to the other amp and listening to same music._

 

Despite your smiley face, I still take offense to that statement, regardless of whether directed at souperman or myself.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Despite your smiley face, I still take offense to that statement, regardless of whether directed at souperman or myself._

 

Heh. x2! x3!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have 64 hours on the D2 now, and that up-tilted treble of last night is gone. And, the bass has picked up a bit more control as well. This is using the same Jack Johnson music as last night.

 The ALO modded Vampire Wire HFI-780's have a least 336 hours on them, but they didn't change between 200-250 hours after they were done burning in (the stock ones weren't burned in at 255 hours due to the diode board and stock cables that offered a whopping 1.2 ohm resistance alone!) 

 So, I am pretty sure the changes I hear are in the amp, and not a combination of both.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Despite your smiley face, I still take offense to that statement, regardless of whether directed at souperman or myself._

 

So you are saying you can compare portable amps by simply recalling their sound in your head?

 ** By the way, anyone notice that the D2 sounds better when it is plugged in or am I placebo'ing stuff? I think I am placebo'ing it.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_** By the way, anyone notice that the D2 sounds better when it is plugged in or am I placebo'ing stuff? I think I am placebo'ing it._

 

plugged in what? usb or power?


----------



## circuithero

There is some slight static when charging and a hiss with usb. IMO it's cleanest without charger/usb.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 I don't think the D2 beats the P2 in terms of ampage from what I've read. No one is like WhoA!_

 

Im like "WHOA" My D2 blows my P2 away in terms of "ampage" It seems to drive my phones much harder (and louder) than my P2


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Im like "WHOA" My D2 blows my P2 away in terms of "ampage" It seems to drive my phones much harder (and louder) than my P2_

 

There you go 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've found the same thing. Although I havent gotten an email stating that I have a High gain unit. But back to back testing of my D2 vs P2, Im inclined to think I have a high gain D2._

 

Well, there you go with the ampage


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *circuithero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_There is some slight static when charging and a hiss with usb. IMO it's cleanest without charger/usb._

 

That's true, but when it's finished charging, then the AC power is "clean" in terms of static.


----------



## voxdei_aer

uhh, will the D2 drive demanding headphones (like 250ohm cans)?? Or would it lack, exspecially in the bass? 

 thanks for any response. I might have to put it in bold next time


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *voxdei_aer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_uhh, will the D2 drive demanding headphones (like 250ohm cans)?? Or would it lack, exspecially in the bass? 

 thanks for any response. I might have to put it in bold next time
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It does a great job with my HD580's so you will be fine.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So you are saying you can compare portable amps by simply recalling their sound in your head?_

 

Most of the time, yes. It certainly helps to do a direct comparison, and most of the time I insist on that, but occasionally that isn't possible.

 I can over-focus on certain details and aspects of what I hear (bass, mids, treble, transparency, decay, coloration, soundstage), and I commit that to memory in terms that I will remember later when I need to. So, when I listen to the same piece of music later I can say to myself, "This doesn't sound like what I filed away last time I heard it."


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Most of the time, yes. It certainly helps to do a direct comparison, and most of the time I insist on that, but occasionally that isn't possible.

 I can over-focus on certain details and aspects of what I hear (bass, mids, treble, transparency, decay, coloration, soundstage), and I commit that to memory in terms that I will remember later when I need to. So, when I listen to the same piece of music later I can say to myself, "This doesn't sound like what I filed away last time I heard it."_

 

I know what you mean, but from all the snake-oil type stuff on Head-fi and Speaker-fi communities, I would much rather place doubt on my aural memory. Music sounds different depending on so many variables that it's difficult to recall the quality of music you heard even a day before. Not only does the sound of music depend on your mood, but it also depends on how long you've been listening, your energy, the time of day, what you ate, whether you have allergies, the exact volume, how much you spent, etc.. For example, a simple difference in volume can lead to ideas such as "oh, the bass has more impact". 

 To decrease the number of variables, the only way is to have both amps at hand, and even in that case, it is difficult to make definite conclusions. I would only make a conclusion if I can identify repeatable differences that occur that varying volumes.

 I bring this up because the D1 and D2 are designed by the same company. The amps are likely to be somewhat similar in signature, and I would doubt anyone who says that their D2 sounds better than the D1 they don't have anymore.

 I don't want to get into the discussion of cables, but the scientific tests and anecdotal evidence do not coincide. This leads me to doubt other aspects of sound comparison.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know what you mean, but from all the snake-oil type stuff on Head-fi and Speaker-fi communities, I would much rather place doubt on my aural memory. Music sounds different depending on so many variables that it's difficult to recall the quality of music you heard even a day before. Not only does the sound of music depend on your mood, but it also depends on how long you've been listening, your energy, the time of day, what you ate, whether you have allergies, the exact volume, how much you spent, etc.. For example, a simple difference in volume can lead to ideas such as "oh, the bass has more impact". 

 To decrease the number of variables, the only way is to have both amps at hand, and even in that case, it is difficult to make definite conclusions. I would only make a conclusion if I can identify repeatable differences that occur that varying volumes.

 I bring this up because the D1 and D2 are designed by the same company. The amps are likely to be somewhat similar in signature, and I would doubt anyone who says that their D2 sounds better than the D1 they don't have anymore.

 I don't want to get into the discussion of cables, but the scientific tests and anecdotal evidence do not coincide. This leads me to doubt other aspects of sound comparison._

 

im pretty sure u can compare amps to they way u compare headphones... considering that u take ur headphones off... do u "recall" the sound from ur headphones to make a judgement? im pretty sure a lot of people do that, so i dont find anything wrong with doing that for amp =D


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_im pretty sure u can compare amps to they way u compare headphones... considering that u take ur headphones off... do u "recall" the sound from ur headphones to make a judgement? im pretty sure a lot of people do that, so i dont find anything wrong with doing that for amp =D_

 

The differences between headphones are different than amps. Headphones have obvious differences, whereas amps, especially portable ones, have subtle differences. It's just my view. Anyway, we should get back on topic!

 I am really enjoying the imaging with the D2. I enjoy sort of looking around with my ears. It helps me visualize a space where the sounds are coming from. 

 I just compared the D2 with my Hot-rodded Audigy 2ZS again, and there is a noticeable difference. At first, I didn't notice much of a difference. I'm not sure if the difference now is due to burn-in or an adaptation to the D2 sound. The D2 sounds much better (in audio terms) than my Audigy. This makes me happy since I already thought the Audigy was good. I can try to roll some opamps on my Audigy and compare again, but I doubt any opamp will make it better than the D2's authoritative, crisp, and clear sound.


----------



## jamato8

The D1 and D2 are very different and I don't expect them to sound alike. This is due to the output stage of the D2/P2, which is very different and the fact that opamp rolling is a factor as well as a general different topology.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Another 24 hours down, 88 total on the D2. (ALO modded HFI780 with 360 hours, while burn-in seemed pretty complete by 200 hours).

 It is back to sounding good again. Bass has tightened up and is not as uncontrolled, and the highs are smoother. Soundstage is starting to open up now as well.

 I have a bunch of opamps to try in it, but like the D1 I will give it 400 hours before I start that.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another 24 hours down, 88 total on the D2. (ALO modded HFI780 with 360 hours, while burn-in seemed pretty complete by 200 hours).

 It is back to sounding good again. Bass has tightened up and is not as uncontrolled, and the highs are smoother. Soundstage is starting to open up now as well.

 I have a bunch of opamps to try in it, but like the D1 I will give it 400 hours before I start that._

 

wow damn, how do u do that, do u just keep it plugged in and run pink noise in it? lol... ive only gotten like... 45 hours on it.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wow damn, how do u do that, do u just keep it plugged in and run pink noise in it? lol... ive only gotten like... 45 hours on it._

 

I run it 24 hours a day, and turn it off for 30-60 minutes or more to give it a rest and let the caps form, etc... I play a mix of music and pink noise and silence.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I run it 24 hours a day, and turn it off for 30-60 minutes or more to give it a rest and let the caps form, etc... I play a mix of music and pink noise and silence._

 

right now i think ive done about... 20 hours of pink noise + digi silence, the rest is music.

 Im just wondering, d2 can run on power right? so basically it doesnt really need ot use the battery right? cause im afraid if i run it for 24 hours, it will just drain the battery and charge it and keep repeating.


----------



## powertoold

No, when you plug it in and the light is green, it bypasses the battery so there's no harm.


----------



## jamato8

I would run it off of the adapter unless you are going out and need it as a portable.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I would run it off of the adapter unless you are going out and need it as a portable._

 

kk thanks guys, i guess i will plug it in right now.


----------



## brainsalad

Let's see how far off the OP and the intent we can get this thread.


----------



## brainsalad

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I know what you mean, but from all the snake-oil type stuff on Head-fi and Speaker-fi communities, I would much rather place doubt on my aural memory. Music sounds different depending on so many variables that it's difficult to recall the quality of music you heard even a day before. Not only does the sound of music depend on your mood, but it also depends on how long you've been listening, your energy, the time of day, what you ate, whether you have allergies, the exact volume, how much you spent, etc.. For example, a simple difference in volume can lead to ideas such as "oh, the bass has more impact". 

 To decrease the number of variables, the only way is to have both amps at hand, and even in that case, it is difficult to make definite conclusions. I would only make a conclusion if I can identify repeatable differences that occur that varying volumes.

 I bring this up because the D1 and D2 are designed by the same company. The amps are likely to be somewhat similar in signature, and I would doubt anyone who says that their D2 sounds better than the D1 they don't have anymore.

 I don't want to get into the discussion of cables, but the scientific tests and anecdotal evidence do not coincide. This leads me to doubt other aspects of sound comparison._

 

Right on the mark powertoold. It's absurd around here. I have been an audiophile for 30 years and every year it gets more and more absurd. I find the claims an insult to my intelligence. Thanks for the apposing voice of reason.


----------



## Rickio

Then can we conclude that choosing or buying audiophile equipment is simpler and easier for the people who don't seem to hear the differences?

 I never actually heard good equipment till recently but it was quality of sound that made me enjoy my music more. I heard better sounds with better cables and better amps and better headphones. If it's a hassle to differentiate I think in a way that's cool. It makes it all easier for you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I wish I could not differentiate so I could stop buying stuff hahaha

 I will buy a tube amp after but I ordered one of these


----------



## onlychild

Ok, so I have one of the high gain units and this is the response I got from iBasso :

 Also, We had a meeting this morning. We know returning it for modification and then send it back will cost many days. Most of the buyer wont satisfy this solution. So, we have decided to provide another solution. We will send a PCB replacement out, you can replace your original PCB,
 So, there are two solutions.
 1, you can send it back for modification, we will pay for the shipping cost.
 2, we will send you a PCB replacement.
 3, you buy a new one, and send the old one back for full refund.
 Please choose one of these solutions. Thank you.


 Can someone please tell me what a PCB replacement is? Is it a part inside the D2 I need to replace?


----------



## MONVMENTVM

The PCB is the whole board.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *onlychild* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, so I have one of the high gain units and this is the response I got from iBasso :


 Can someone please tell me what a PCB replacement is? Is it a part inside the D2 I need to replace?_

 

PCB= Printed Circuit Board. Basically they will send you a new amp sans the case, you take the PCB board out of your case and send it back to them, and put the new on in the case you have. Not a bad solution if you ask me. Question is, how do I tell if I have a High gain unit. The Vol pot on mine (now that Im listening with more sensitve HP) is either too much or too little.


----------



## powertoold

You don't have one if they didn't tell you.


----------



## meusickfrek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *onlychild* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, so I have one of the high gain units and this is the response I got from iBasso :

 Also, We had a meeting this morning. We know returning it for modification and then send it back will cost many days. Most of the buyer wont satisfy this solution. So, we have decided to provide another solution. We will send a PCB replacement out, you can replace your original PCB,
 So, there are two solutions.
 1, you can send it back for modification, we will pay for the shipping cost.
 2, we will send you a PCB replacement.
 3, you buy a new one, and send the old one back for full refund.
 Please choose one of these solutions. Thank you.


 Can someone please tell me what a PCB replacement is? Is it a part inside the D2 I need to replace?_

 


 So to replace the PCB do you just have to remove the pot and everything else just slides into place, including the gain switch? This kind of sucks considering I have 5 days of burn in on my unit bit this might be the best solution. Their site says new units will ship in one week and if you send the unit in you will be w/o and amp for approx 2 weeks. Or I could buy a new unit, and wait until it burns in until sending the high gain unit back. I don't think this is unreasonable, any thoughts.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meusickfrek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So to replace the PCB do you just have to remove the pot and everything else just slides into place, including the gain switch? This kind of sucks considering I have 5 days of burn in on my unit bit this might be the best solution. Their site says new units will ship in one week and if you send the unit in you will be w/o and amp for approx 2 weeks. Or I could buy a new unit, and wait until it burns in until sending the high gain unit back. I don't think this is unreasonable, any thoughts._

 

You don't have to remove anything, just the case. Just wait until they send you a PCB replacement before you send them yours. It sounds like they will send you the replacement first and then you send yours back. That's what I took that to mean. So just ask them to send you a PCB replacement, and during that time enjoy your high gain D2. Then when theirs comes just swap out the whole board, and send the high gain one back to them. That's all there is to it!


----------



## Chronos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You don't have to remove anything, just the case. Just wait until they send you a PCB replacement before you send them yours. It sounds like they will send you the replacement first and then you send yours back. That's what I took that to mean. So just ask them to send you a PCB replacement, and during that time enjoy your high gain D2. Then when theirs comes just swap out the whole board, and send the high gain one back to them. That's all there is to it!_

 

I also have one of the high gain models. Could that explain the popping sound you get when you switch from low to high gain, or does that occur for everybody? Also is the only difference between the normal and high gain version that the volume gets a lot louder when you switch to high gain on my version? Would there be any other sound differences or anything? It doesn't seem like such a bad mistake to have if the only difference is that it gets louder than others on high gain. (I'm trying to decide if its worth the hassle of sending mine back or just keeping it).


----------



## HiFlight

The pop happens with all of them when switching from low to high gain. Normal.


----------



## onlychild

Chronos,

 I'm not sure if this is occuring because I have the high gain model or if its my laptop, but at home I get ALOT of buzzing noise on my Sony Vaio that gets louder when the volume is turned up or if I touch the unit, but then at work on a much cheaper Dell, I don't have this problem. I am thinking the high gain model is causing all this extra buzzing. So my suggestion is to definitely swap it out while iBasso is doing it for free. Even if you do not see any issues right now, you might later on with a new computer. 

 The D2 was not designed by iBasso to have the high gain, they only did it as a request for someone who was buying many units and wanted them that way.


----------



## powertoold

lol, I love how burn in has become like an RPG lvling contest. Hay mang, what level you at? LVL452. Damn! How you leveling so fast? I play 24/7.


----------



## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *onlychild* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Chronos,

 I'm not sure if this is occuring because I have the high gain model or if its my laptop, but at home I get ALOT of buzzing noise on my Sony Vaio that gets louder when the volume is turned up or if I touch the unit, but then at work on a much cheaper Dell, I don't have this problem. I am thinking the high gain model is causing all this extra buzzing. So my suggestion is to definitely swap it out while iBasso is doing it for free. Even if you do not see any issues right now, you might later on with a new computer. 

 The D2 was not designed by iBasso to have the high gain, they only did it as a request for someone who was buying many units and wanted them that way._

 

I also get the same thing happening with my vaio laptop. I figure it has something to do with the power going to the usb on the laptop. I've yet to try it on another computer.


----------



## powertoold

The high gain has to do with your amp. The USB noise is likely to be caused by your computer. There was another guy who had the problem, switched computers, and solved it.

 I would think it should be obvious if you had the high gain version. If not, then iBasso would have notified you anyway. I'm sure they recorded the serial numbers of high gain models, and recorded the number again to people they shipped it to. That's why they can email people and tell them they have the high gain version. Unless you were emailed, I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## brainsalad

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_lol, I love how burn in has become like an RPG lvling contest. Hay mang, what level you at? LVL452. Damn! How you leveling so fast? I play 24/7._

 


 I like how they can document how the sound changes between hours 200-250 and then magically at 268 it did this and now it's at 300 it now is like that.

 If burn in was real in electronics, computers wouldn't work. We would have to "burn them in" first. LOL.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like how they can document how the sound changes between hours 200-250 and then magically at 268 it did this and now it's at 300 it now is like that.

 If burn in was real in electronics, computers wouldn't work. We would have to "burn them in" first. LOL._

 

First of all, your last statement doesn't make sense at all. Burn-in has nothing to do with anything working. The physical aspect of burn-in is real. For example, capacitors don't just form to their usual operating state immediately. I'd compare it to using a completely new elastic band. At first it's a bit stiff, but the more you use it the looser it gets. The change could be good or bad. However if that changes ANYTHING in electronics is still up for grabs.

 I'm not sure why you bother posting in this thread if all you want to do is derail the intent of the thread to topics that you want to argue over. I guess everybody has there ways of passing time. You're probably going to counterpost with something sarcastic and we'll just end up having a grand ole forum fight. Those are fun. 


 Anyways back to the D2. I have the high-gain D2, yet so far I have not noticed any problems with any of my headphones.


----------



## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like how they can document how the sound changes between hours 200-250 and then magically at 268 it did this and now it's at 300 it now is like that.

 If burn in was real in electronics, computers wouldn't work. We would have to "burn them in" first. LOL._

 

Afaik processors are burnt in before sent to manufactures for assembly. Processors aren't very likely to fail but if they do they usually fail early in life which is why they're burnt in.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You don't have to remove anything, just the case. Just wait until they send you a PCB replacement before you send them yours. It sounds like they will send you the replacement first and then you send yours back. That's what I took that to mean. So just ask them to send you a PCB replacement, and during that time enjoy your high gain D2. Then when theirs comes just swap out the whole board, and send the high gain one back to them. That's all there is to it!_

 

You shouldn't have to return anything if they are trying to save money.


----------



## meusickfrek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You shouldn't have to return anything if they are trying to save money._

 

Can you elaborate?


----------



## HiFlight

Well, I couldn't wait for several hundred hours of "burn-in" so I changed my D2 opamps to ISL55002 in LR and THS4032 in IC-7. It is the same combo that sounded so good to me in my other iBasso amps. It sounds every bit as good, if not better, in my D2. 

 Who knows what it will sound like at 432 hours!


----------



## mew1838

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_lol, I love how burn in has become like an RPG lvling contest. Hay mang, what level you at? LVL452. Damn! How you leveling so fast? I play 24/7._

 

That post makes my day, thanks bro


----------



## walkman666

Just got my D2 today. Way psyched. I basically wanted something better than my headphone jack if I was to be listening through iTunes on my laptop. I compared the headphone jack of my Dell Vostro to the iBasso D2. No comparison. Using Shure e500s right now. Excellent sound for what I need. Very cool to have this PC-based option.

 At first I was concerned cos I did not get sound, but then I did a search on this thread and found that the trick was to plug the headphones into the D2 first, and with the D2 turned on, then plug the D2 into the PC. The PC identified the "USB Audio Dac" right away.

 This aint my leatherheads and my Sim and Headamp stuff, but this is quite nice for the needs...


----------



## meusickfrek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like how they can document how the sound changes between hours 200-250 and then magically at 268 it did this and now it's at 300 it now is like that.

 If burn in was real in electronics, computers wouldn't work. We would have to "burn them in" first. LOL._

 

I guess when I get my unit/pcb I will be able to do a side by side test, until then I'm going to burn the crap out of this thing. I guess i'm bound to p*ss some people off, but all I can do is give my honest opinion. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The comparison will be between the stock 11(?) gain and the modded 13 gain. Oh well.....

 Any impressions on burn in will help to placebo by head to make things more confusing


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I couldn't wait for several hundred hours of "burn-in" so I changed my D2 opamps to ISL55002 in LR and THS4032 in IC-7. It is the same combo that sounded so good to me in my other iBasso amps. It sounds every bit as good, if not better, in my D2. 

 Who knows what it will sound like at 432 hours!_

 

So are you at 432 hours yet?? :^)

 What other combos did you like or not like or is this the main one you like after all the experimentation?


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I couldn't wait for several hundred hours of "burn-in" so I changed my D2 opamps to ISL55002 in LR and THS4032 in IC-7. It is the same combo that sounded so good to me in my other iBasso amps. It sounds every bit as good, if not better, in my D2. 

 Who knows what it will sound like at 432 hours!_

 

Those seem like pricey opamps. Is there a cheaper configuration with readily abundant and available opamps? Thanks!

 Wait, nevermind, I think I can get free samples of those


----------



## meusickfrek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Those seem like pricey opamps. Is there a cheaper configuration with readily abundant and available opamps? Thanks!

 Wait, nevermind, I think I can get free samples of those 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Do I have to ask the obvious.........you knew someone would


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meusickfrek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do I have to ask the obvious.........you knew someone would_

 

Google the opamp and find out what company. Go on their site. Smooth sailing.


----------



## powertoold

Is anyone experiencing an increase in bass with burn-in? I'm not sure if it's my ears or the bass seems overwhelming with my FreQs now. The bass sounds better with the HD580s though since it doesn't have much to begin with. On the other hand, my FreQs are rather bass heavy.

 Geez, it sounds amazing though. This thing is worth every penny 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Gah I didn't know amps could make such a difference. So good So good AHHHhhHHHHhSHDfhsdf

 *** I think I was listening to my HD580s too much today, so when I switched back to FreQs, I thought the bass was too much. I'm sort of getting used to it again.


----------



## HiFlight

Well, the OPA2134 sounds pretty good in IC-7, and AD746, OPA6172 and AD8066 sounded good in LR, as well as ADA4847-1, but after all the rounds of trials, I ended up back at the same place I started. 55002 in LR and 4032 in IC-7. LMH6655 did not work at all in IC-7 but didn't sound bad in LR. LME49720 lacked impact and had a rather restricted soundstage.

 I don't really think the cost of the 55002 and 4032 is that much higher than many of the others, considering the superb performance and the fact that only one of each is required in this amp. 

 Of course there are many other sets of ears that could well prefer something other than what I like. 

 The D2 is without doubt going to give a lot of higher priced amp-dac a good run for the money! It is a beautifully done amp inside and out.

 PS...The ISL55002IB is made by Intersil and the THS4032 by Texas Instruments and my T-6 torx bit fits the case screws perfectly. They were not very tight and quite easy to remove and replace.


----------



## mrarroyo

HiFlight, both op-amps are available in Digikey. However which of them should I get. Here are the searches. Thanks.

Digi-Key Part Search

Digi-Key Part Search


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, the OPA2134 sounds pretty good in IC-7, and AD746, OPA6172 and AD8066 sounded good in LR, as well as ADA4847-1, but after all the rounds of trials, I ended up back at the same place I started. 55002 in LR and 4032 in IC-7. LMH6655 did not work at all in IC-7 but didn't sound bad in LR. LME49720 lacked impact and had a rather restricted soundstage.

 I don't really think the cost of the 55002 and 4032 is that much higher than many of the others, considering the superb performance and the fact that only one of each is required in this amp. 

 Of course there are many other sets of ears that could well prefer something other than what I like. 

 The D2 is without doubt going to give a lot of higher priced amp-dac a good run for the money! It is a beautifully done amp inside and out.

 PS...The ISL55002IB is made by Intersil and the THS4032 by Texas Instruments and my T-6 torx bit fits the case screws perfectly. They were not very tight and quite easy to remove and replace._

 

I'm actually glad those opamps are good for the D2 hehe. The AD74x series isn't free, so I would have to spend a lot of money on those. I can get those of the ISL and THS as samples because I am in a university, so less money = woohoo! Thanks for figuring out the combination!

 Right now I'm using the AD8599 in buffer and AD4841-2 in main.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_HiFlight, both op-amps are available in Digikey. However which of them should I get. Here are the searches. Thanks.

Digi-Key Part Search

Digi-Key Part Search_

 

These are the correct Digikey part numbers: 

 296-7524-5-ND
 ISL55002IBZ-T7CT-ND


----------



## meusickfrek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Google the opamp and find out what company. Go on their site. Smooth sailing._

 

Thanks, this will be my first rolling experience
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Hiflight, can you compare the stock opamps to your preferred setup?

 edit: also how does the 4841 & 55002 compare to this setup and what cans are you using? Thanks


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meusickfrek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks, this will be my first rolling experience
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

You might have to solder those onto adapters though. They aren't DIP I don't think. They are SOIC.


----------



## meusickfrek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You might have to solder those onto adapters though. They aren't DIP I don't think. They are SOIC._

 

Thats good to know, I'm really liken the stock setup though, almost afraid to know how good things can get.

 Edit:Hiflight, can you compare the stock opamps to your preferred setup?
 Also, how does the 4841 & 55002 compare to this setup and what cans are you using? Thanks


----------



## Chronos

So the only difference between the high gain version and the regular is that one is louder than the other when switched to high gain right? Any high gainers out there keeping theres, and why?


----------



## fourier427

so if i order a d2 right now from ibasso, will i get a defective one with the high gain?


----------



## powertoold

No


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fourier427* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so if i order a d2 right now from ibasso, will i get a defective one with the high gain?_

 

It isn't defective it has too high a gain for most people but they aren't sending that one out to "regular" buyers. It was a special order for a company.


----------



## meusickfrek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chronos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the only difference between the high gain version and the regular is that one is louder than the other when switched to high gain right? Any high gainers out there keeping theres, and why?_

 

Hi everyone, my name is Paul and I am a high gainer, I was a high gainer for three days before I found out and hope to not be a high gainer in the future....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seriously, I am returning mine because the amp was not designed to be high gain, it may effect sound quality, you should have better volume control, and if you want to sell it, who would want to buy an amp w/a gain of 23?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have 115 hours on my D2, and it is sounding fairly good right now. Most of my complaints have been gone since I reported it sounded better last night. Not a whole lot of changes. Not planning to direct compare D2 to Predator, PICO or Lyrix which all have USB DAC till 300+ hours...

 Then I have a ton of opamps to try out in this puppy after I compare them stock.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meusickfrek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can you elaborate?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

First is the fact that they will send an entire D2 if you pay for it, then refund the first upon return. Or, they will pay all the shipping if you are willing to live without it for 2 weeks to send back and they ship back = they pay for 2 of the 3 total trips back and forth. 

 But, if they offer to send the PCB only, for free, without opamps and case and charger, I don't think they are expecting to get the old PCB back. You should ask them.

 When my P2 died, they sent a new PCB without case opamps or charger. They didn't make me return the dead one, and I still have a dead P2 PCB with a melted chip in the charging circuit 3 months later. When the second P2 died, then I did have to return the whole P2 for store credit, which I used as partial payment for my D2. Which is working flawlessly.


----------



## RAQemUP

Just got the D2 in yesterday, and so far I am liking it. Just need to burn it in for a couple of weeks. My only concern atm is whether anyone knows why the volume pot doesnt increase the sound past the 1 o'clock even when its spun past? I think I remember someone else mentioning it but not sure if it was in another thread about the D2.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like how they can document how the sound changes between hours 200-250 and then magically at 268 it did this and now it's at 300 it now is like that.

 If burn in was real in electronics, computers wouldn't work. We would have to "burn them in" first. LOL._

 

technically u are wrong. you need to burn in your "overclock" in the beginning to have it stablize before you can go higher in clocking without problem.

 if you have clocked a computer from 2ghz to 4ghz instantly, the chances of losing "lifetime" on a cpu is actually faster than if u do it in increments. ie... going at 2ghz, then 2.5, then 3, then 3.5 and w/e. basically this step of "stablizing" step is considered a burn in because the cpu cant handle the quick change in stress load and power.

 this is also the same as using rechargable batteries, why do u think we need to "burn in" ie... fully charge and discharge the batteries to make their lifetime longer?

 this may not be the same "burn in" as headphones or amp, but they are still considered as burn in.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You don't have one if they didn't tell you._

 

Apparently I DO have one. 

  Quote:


 Hello, XXXXXXXX
 Thank you for your email.
 I think you missed my previous email. 
 Yes, you got one of the high gain setting D2. If you feel unconfortable with this D2. We will provide one of the following solutions.
 1, you send the D2 back for gain modification. We will pay for all of the shipping cost.
 2, We send a PCB replacement to replace your original PCB. 

 Please choose one. 

 We are very sorry for the problem. Please accept our applogize.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio 
 

I didnt get an email from the before, so I emailed them. Anyhoo, The high gain model has some problems IMO. I got my K701's out and did some technical listening with some vocals, and otherwise slow music. I was being very technical, while listening. Listening to Nora Jones WAV file via a line out on my Zen Vision W. I heard crackling in her voice I've never heard, (NOTE this came from a Hybrid SACD and I listen to that same SACD version all the time on my home system 2ch @ 176.4K) I've NEVER heard her sound so bad. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The bass was muddy, and the highs crackling..not cliping, just not crisp at all. Plus the fact that the volume control is hair trigger. It's either too loud or too quiet. Back to Back A/B'in with the P2 I have shows the high gains shortcomings. I said in my first post when I heard the D2, compared to my P2 that something was different, now I KNOW what it was, and I dont like it. I'll be waiting for my replacement PCB. Till then back to my P2.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Chronos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So the only difference between the high gain version and the regular is that one is louder than the other when switched to high gain right? Any high gainers out there keeping theres, and why?_

 

I dont think anyone can accurately answer that, as nobody has A/B'ed both versions. But from all the things I've read the D2 should have the same amp section as the P2, and the High gain I have sounds worse that the P2 that I have. Yes It's louder...but....louder isnt better IMHO.


----------



## powertoold

Does anyone have a problem with fully charging the D2 after using them for about 10-20 minutes on the battery? 

 I used my D2 for about 10 minutes on the battery last night, and it is still charging this morning.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have a problem with fully charging the D2 after using them for about 10-20 minutes on the battery? 

 I used my D2 for about 10 minutes on the battery last night, and it is still charging this morning._

 

i have noticed that as well... i had my power plugged in, and then after it was done charging, i was basically using the power off the wart... and then i accidentally moved the plug a bit, and then it started "charging" again.

 im thinking there may be possibility that there isnt a safe charge indicator for the D2


----------



## meusickfrek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone have a problem with fully charging the D2 after using them for about 10-20 minutes on the battery? 

 I used my D2 for about 10 minutes on the battery last night, and it is still charging this morning._

 

No problems with mine, when fully charged I unplugged it then plugged it back in, it went from red to green in a few minutes.


----------



## meusickfrek

Got this from Ibasso

 Hello, Paul,
 Yes, we will send the replacement (PCB) out on this friday.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio


----------



## Computerstud

Finally had some time to play with the Ibasso D2.

 Initial Impressions:
 1) No hiss or static even when volume knob is turned full with IM716/ES-7. Some hiss (very slight) with the Denon C700.
 2) No clipping at any volume wit IM716. I repeat no clipping. (The Corda Move would clip and added so much distortion at higher volume that it was pretty much useless for most of my headphones except ultra low imedance). 
 3) After reading all the initial impressions, I was a bit worry. I'm a bit anal when it comes to gear. So far nothing bothers me about the Ibasso D2 plus it looks pretty good.

 The Ibasso D2 is currently burning in with my newly ordered ES-7 (3rd one) and will report back after 100hrs. I will also compare the Ibasso D2 to the Heed Canamp and will also report back. 

 Initial Impression are: 
 the Ibasso D2 is very neutral and would pair well with warm cans. The clarity and soundstage is definitely noticeable. Overall it offers a clear and detail presentation of the music. 
 (forgive any grammatical error or spelling)


----------



## powertoold

The D2 makes me love my FreQs like 3x more. OmG OMG It's so good amazing AHHhHHhhHHhh. I don't even know how to express how pleasurable music is. I just want to scream!


----------



## jamato8

So you want to scream. . . . ok . . . but if you are in a mall you might want to do a dance at the same time so the entertainment will be a total expression of motion and sound. Then brace for the security guards coming to join you. If at home I find a rising pitch ending in spasmotic thrusts towards the sky adds to the overall expression of total emersion within the moment. Not that I ever do this. . .


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The D2 makes me love my FreQs like 3x more. OmG OMG It's so good amazing AHHhHHhhHHhh. I don't even know how to express how pleasurable music is. I just want to scream!_

 

This coming from the guy who said he wasn't enjoying the D2 as much before and how there have not been any eureka moments 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## powertoold

Ya, it must be burn in


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ya, it must be burn in 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, but burn-in isn't real 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










. Glad you like it so much!


----------



## jamato8

Well mine is on the truck and should arrive sometime today. If you hear an unbridled scream of primordial nature just go on about your daily activities and don't give it a second thought.


----------



## Asr

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_technically u are wrong. you need to burn in your "overclock" in the beginning to have it stablize before you can go higher in clocking without problem.

 if you have clocked a computer from 2ghz to 4ghz instantly, the chances of losing "lifetime" on a cpu is actually faster than if u do it in increments. ie... going at 2ghz, then 2.5, then 3, then 3.5 and w/e. basically this step of "stablizing" step is considered a burn in because the cpu cant handle the quick change in stress load and power.

 this is also the same as using rechargable batteries, why do u think we need to "burn in" ie... fully charge and discharge the batteries to make their lifetime longer?

 this may not be the same "burn in" as headphones or amp, but they are still considered as burn in._

 

This post displays a general lack of knowledge of the subject of overclocking in computers.

 First, microprocessors and capacitors are completely different parts. When it comes to amp burn-in, it's the caps that are suggested to burn in, and 99% of today's audio amplifiers don't have microprocessors in them (there are some exceptions but those are not the norm).

 Second, overclockers don't "burn in" their overclock setting. The reason they run the computer at a setting for a period of time is to ensure the computer is stable and not overheating. This is very different from amp burn-in, where nothing is being stressed to levels even remotely similar to those inside an overclocked computer.

 Third, most microprocessors today ARE designed to run at high speeds, but in final production computer systems they're intentially underclocked so they can run stable instead of super-fast and hot. Microprocessors _can_ handle changes in stress load and power - briefly of course, but they're still able to handle variance loads, as the clock speed isn't even always 100% static (there are subtle electrical variations every second within the computer infrastructure, and current processors are controlled by software to run at slower-than-nominal clock speeds when at rest). Only poorly designed ones can't.

 Fourth, your mention of overclocking from 2GHz, to 2.5GHz, to 3.0GHz, to 3.5GHz is a highly warped one. No processor in the world can take that level of overclocking, the most that can be overclocked is only a few hundred MHz at most. I take it you've never attempted to overclock a computer, otherwise you wouldn't have even mentioned those ridiculous clock speeds from a baseline 2GHz. If you could overclock a 2GHz processor to 3.5GHz, it'd overheat and self-destruct in less than 1 second.

 Fifth, the idea of running a computer to test stability after an overclock has never been referred to as "burn-in" within the industry.

 Your reference to burn-in on rechargeable batteries also makes no sense. On today's lithium batteries, full discharge is NEVER recommended even though there's no associated memory effect with them, as the more often it's done, the more the battery loses its charge capacity. Frequent full discharges of lithium cells will shorten their usability. And even lithium batteries don't last forever, so there's no reason to "burn them in."


----------



## jamato8

Got the D2. Anyone hear the scream??

 Nice sounding, now for the burn-in of the cpu, I mean caps and dacs. 

 I don't get any buzzing on mine. Very nice quality look to the unit. I like mine in red. not really, all black with a Viper. An asp viper bit me years ago when I used to import and export to zoos and institutions so I am wary of vipers. My heart stopped twice and the anti venom got to me just in time but hey, all I can say is go for it, you only live once?? well maybe not but hey we are alive right now right? Right? 

 Dire Straits playing as I burn in the cpu, I mean caps and dacs. One dac but it doesn't rhyme.

 Oh, and it is playing equally well with the Ultrasone or Sennheiser HD650's. Plenty of drive for the 650 and at time they can soak up the power.

 Damn, after an hour the D2 sounds great out of the box! It handles the guitars on Dark Side of the Moon with body, and a tunefulness that is very enjoyable and even adds dimension to my 780's.


----------



## kamal007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This post displays a general lack of knowledge of the subject of overclocking in computers.

 First, microprocessors and capacitors are completely different parts. When it comes to amp burn-in, it's the caps that are suggested to burn in, and 99% of today's audio amplifiers don't have microprocessors in them (there are some exceptions but those are not the norm).

 Second, overclockers don't "burn in" their overclock setting. The reason they run the computer at a setting for a period of time is to ensure the computer is stable and not overheating. This is very different from amp burn-in, where nothing is being stressed to levels even remotely similar to those inside an overclocked computer.

 Third, most microprocessors today ARE designed to run at high speeds, but in final production computer systems they're intentially underclocked so they can run stable instead of super-fast and hot. Microprocessors can handle changes in stress load and power - briefly of course, but they're still able to handle variance loads, as the clock speed isn't even always 100% static (there are subtle electrical variations every second within the computer infrastructure, and current processors are controlled by software to run at slower-than-nominal clock speeds when at rest). Only poorly designed ones can't.

 Fourth, your mention of overclocking from 2GHz, to 2.5GHz, to 3.0GHz, to 3.5GHz is a highly warped one. No processor in the world can take that level of overclocking, the most that can be overclocked is only a few hundred MHz at most. I take it you've never attempted to overclock a computer, otherwise you wouldn't have even mentioned those ridiculous clock speeds from a baseline 2GHz.* If you could overclock a 2GHz processor to 3.5GHz, it'd overheat and self-destruct in less than 1 second.*

 Fifth, the idea of running a computer to test stability after an overclock has never been referred to as "burn-in" within the industry.

 Your reference to burn-in on rechargeable batteries also makes no sense. On today's lithium batteries, full discharge is NEVER recommended even though there's no associated memory effect with them, as the more often it's done, the more the battery loses its charge capacity. Frequent full discharges of lithium cells will shorten their usability. And even lithium batteries don't last forever, so there's no reason to "burn them in."_

 

not really, check this thread:

The Official Core 2 OverClocking Database *READ 1st Post for Instructions* - [H]ard|Forum

 ppl can achieve 3.8Ghz out of an 1.8Ghz CPU (e6300) with proper cooling and the right equipment (heatsink,fan, ram, mobo etc) and knowledge


----------



## ack_0220

jamato8,

 I see you got your D2 already, mine just got shipped......can't wait to get my hands on it. Back to that question again....how is it compared to the P2? Everyone seems to be running the D2 from their computer with the DAC, can you do an amp only test with the P2 and do a review on it? I will be using it primarily with my ipod, will like to know how this thing fair on the amp only...i can't tell much because this is the first portable amp i am getting.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ack_0220* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_jamato8,

 I see you got your D2 already, mine just got shipped......can't wait to get my hands on it. Back to that question again....how is it compared to the P2? Everyone seems to be running the D2 from their computer with the DAC, can you do an amp only test with the P2 and do a review on it? I will be using it primarily with my ipod, will like to know how this thing fair on the amp only...i can't tell much because this is the first portable amp i am getting._

 

Thanks for putting us back on track to actually talking about the D2. It should be very similar because they are basically the same amp design. If you aren't going to use the DAC, I would suggest getting the P2 as it is cheaper.


----------



## dcpoor

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fourth, your mention of overclocking from 2GHz, to 2.5GHz, to 3.0GHz, to 3.5GHz is a highly warped one. No processor in the world can take that level of overclocking, the most that can be overclocked is only a few hundred MHz at most. I take it you've never attempted to overclock a computer, otherwise you wouldn't have even mentioned those ridiculous clock speeds from a baseline 2GHz. If you could overclock a 2GHz processor to 3.5GHz, it'd overheat and self-destruct in less than 1 second._

 

i'd just like to point out that there are some processors these days that do have that much overclocking potential. in particular intel's current line of dualcore processors. for example my dual core e2140 processor that has a stock speed of 1.6ghz can overclock and run stablely at 3.0ghz. the e2160 and e2180 processors usually overclock a bit higher than that too. this is possible because these processors are in actuallity core2duo processors but downclocked, with a lower fsb, and less cache.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ack_0220* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_jamato8,

 I see you got your D2 already, mine just got shipped......can't wait to get my hands on it. Back to that question again....how is it compared to the P2? Everyone seems to be running the D2 from their computer with the DAC, can you do an amp only test with the P2 and do a review on it? I will be using it primarily with my ipod, will like to know how this thing fair on the amp only...i can't tell much because this is the first portable amp i am getting._

 

It is too early to compare them as the D2 will take some time but there are a few things that will make them different. One, the resistors used are a larger value in wattage, because using larger wattage resistors improves sound due to a more stable resistance. How much difference hard to say in this situation but time will tell. Also there are caps that are different and other small component changes. 

 The D2 has gone a little dark in sound right now, which I would expect at this early stage of everything forming.


----------



## Asr

Ok, I sit corrected on some exceptions to my generalized statement. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The generalization still exists though - back in my day (er, when I actually studied this subject more than 5 years ago) these kinds of mad-overclocking procs didn't exist and I don't exactly see the trend being very prevalent at the few PC-oriented forums I hang out at.


----------



## ack_0220

Will wait for your D2 to burn in and the impressions on it.........thanks

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It is too early to compare them as the D2 will take some time but there are a few things that will make them different. One, the resistors used are a larger value in wattage, because using larger wattage resistors improves sound due to a more stable resistance. How much difference hard to say in this situation but time will tell. Also there are caps that are different and other small component changes. 

 The D2 has gone a little dark in sound right now, which I would expect at this early stage of everything forming._


----------



## MaloS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I sit corrected on some exceptions to my generalized statement. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The generalization still exists though - back in my day (er, when I actually studied this subject more than 5 years ago) these kinds of mad-overclocking procs didn't exist and I don't exactly see the trend being very prevalent at the few PC-oriented forums I hang out at. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

In all honesty your argument against burn-in should have been much simpler Steve =]. Micrprocessors are digital, which by design is supposed to be immune to variations in components, especially since component characteristics vary with heat alot more than any production inaccuracy can alter them (unless its a lemon). We are dealing with analog equipment designed to acknowledge the differences in the circuit behavior as closely as possible.


----------



## Computerstud

Give Asr a break. I'm sure he didn't mean anything by the overclocking comments.

 BTW, my Dell 9300 (Laptop) is overclocked from 1.7ghz to 2.26ghz (pin-modded w/o voltage mod).

 Remember the days of the Athlon XP where people were taking the 2400/2500/2600 XP -M and overclocking it pass 2.6ghz...with BH-5 RAM running 250mhz FSB (and this was on air cooling)?


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Computerstud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Give Asr a break. I'm sure he didn't mean anything by the overclocking comments.

 BTW, my Dell 9300 (Laptop) is overclocked from 1.7ghz to 2.26ghz (pin-modded w/o voltage mod).

 Remember the days of the Athlon XP where people were taking the 2400/2500/2600 XP -M and overclocking it pass 2.6ghz...with BH-5 RAM running 250mhz FSB (and this was on air cooling)? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

BTW this is the D2 thread.


----------



## powertoold

Hey Asr, I wanted to post what you posted, except for the 2ghz-3.5ghz thing, but I was too lazy.

 Thanks for letting me release my tension through your words lol!

 Anyway, I was sarcastic about the burn-in causing my enthusiasm about the D2. I was listening to some music I hadn't listened to before with the D2, and I thought the pieces sounded amazing with it. It's not that the D2 sounded better than it was at the beginning; rather, the characteristics that I heard from the beginning: expanded soundstage, clarity, and bass made the music sound great!

 Maybe it is burn; maybe it isn't. I don't really care as long as I am happy


----------



## brainsalad

My apologies for my cynical remarks earlier in this thread regarding amplifier burn in. I don't want a thread fight or bash anyone's opinion here. I'm not a believer in amplifier burn in but on the other hand, speakers & headphones I am. I understand all of the arguments for it and I also understand all the arguments against it. I have owned dozens and dozens of amplifiers, 7 different ones already this year, and I have yet to hear or observe a difference in any of them after 200+ hours of use. That's my observation and my opinion. 

 Now, back to topic. Here's what's frustrating... My D2 came yesterday. It's at home, unopened on my desk and I am in FL on business and won't be home for another week. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When I get back I will be posting my observations on the D2 compared against the Go-Vibe Petite ($200 also) and an unfair comparison against my HR Ultra Stack.

 It only took 8 days from money sent to having the D2 on my doorstep. That's amazing considering the relatively low cost for shipping and it's coming from Hong Kong.


----------



## powertoold

Darn, burn-in seems like such an appealing concept though: I want to level up my amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, my amp isn't sounding as good as it was this morning. This must mean it's doing its burn-in swing thing where at 100 hours it sounds different than 110 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Orrrr maybe my mood changed and my ears aren't as receptive to sound.


----------



## brainsalad

I think I need to remember, this is a hobby. We all want the same thing, the best sound that fits our listening tastes/style and that fits our budget. If burning in an amplifier or Shun Mook disks or Tice clocks or $500 AC power cord give you a perception of better sound, go for it.


----------



## jamato8

Mine at 4 hours is sounding real good but I know it will be up and down but I can tell it should burn in to a good amp/ caps forming.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This post displays a general lack of knowledge of the subject of overclocking in computers.

 First, microprocessors and capacitors are completely different parts. When it comes to amp burn-in, it's the caps that are suggested to burn in, and 99% of today's audio amplifiers don't have microprocessors in them (there are some exceptions but those are not the norm)._

 

So are you saying theres no capacitors on a motherboard? u do know caps on a mobo do affect how much and how far u can take an overclock.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Second, overclockers don't "burn in" their overclock setting. The reason they run the computer at a setting for a period of time is to ensure the computer is stable and not overheating. This is very different from amp burn-in, where nothing is being stressed to levels even remotely similar to those inside an overclocked computer._

 

tahts why people burn in their amp at "above" listening levels? its basically the same as considering overclocking a computer, leave it running to be stable, and then underclocking BACK to stock clock. the stock clock will be a lot more stable than before (not saying it isnt stable already)

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Third, most microprocessors today ARE designed to run at high speeds, but in final production computer systems they're intentially underclocked so they can run stable instead of super-fast and hot. Microprocessors can handle changes in stress load and power - briefly of course, but they're still able to handle variance loads, as the clock speed isn't even always 100% static (there are subtle electrical variations every second within the computer infrastructure, and current processors are controlled by software to run at slower-than-nominal clock speeds when at rest). Only poorly designed ones can't._

 

theres a reason why its called overclock, its above the stock clock value. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fourth, your mention of overclocking from 2GHz, to 2.5GHz, to 3.0GHz, to 3.5GHz is a highly warped one. No processor in the world can take that level of overclocking, the most that can be overclocked is only a few hundred MHz at most. I take it you've never attempted to overclock a computer, otherwise you wouldn't have even mentioned those ridiculous clock speeds from a baseline 2GHz. If you could overclock a 2GHz processor to 3.5GHz, it'd overheat and self-destruct in less than 1 second._

 

of course, check computer forums: Intel P4 overclocked to 7.1 GHz - Web News & Trends
 ever heard of the p4 7ghz clock? guess not.
 and sure, i havent overclocked, thats why im running a e4400 with firestix on a 4ghz clock.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Fifth, the idea of running a computer to test stability after an overclock has never been referred to as "burn-in" within the industry._

 

of course it hasnt, but im using it as an example.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Asr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your reference to burn-in on rechargeable batteries also makes no sense. On today's lithium batteries, full discharge is NEVER recommended even though there's no associated memory effect with them, as the more often it's done, the more the battery loses its charge capacity. Frequent full discharges of lithium cells will shorten their usability. And even lithium batteries don't last forever, so there's no reason to "burn them in."_

 

the instruction manuals to most of my electronics still say to fully charge and discharge at least once and do it after a certain amount of times. also, its an example, it may not be a similar example, but it still is. (i could of always used a "car" as an example)

 BUT: like everyone said here, this is a D2 thread, no need to argue about computers, if you wanna msg me about being wrong, pm me. i take no offence to w/e u said.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RAQemUP* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got the D2 in yesterday, and so far I am liking it. Just need to burn it in for a couple of weeks. My only concern atm is whether anyone knows why the volume pot doesnt increase the sound past the 1 o'clock even when its spun past? I think I remember someone else mentioning it but not sure if it was in another thread about the D2._

 

yeah, that was me, I didnt see much increase in sound past that position either.


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My apologies for my cynical remarks earlier in this thread regarding amplifier burn in. I don't want a thread fight or bash anyone's opinion here. I'm not a believer in amplifier burn in but on the other hand, speakers & headphones I am. I understand all of the arguments for it and I also understand all the arguments against it. I have owned dozens and dozens of amplifiers, 7 different ones already this year, and I have yet to hear or observe a difference in any of them after 200+ hours of use. That's my observation and my opinion. 

 Now, back to topic. Here's what's frustrating... My D2 came yesterday. It's at home, unopened on my desk and I am in FL on business and won't be home for another week. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 When I get back I will be posting my observations on the D2 compared against the Go-Vibe Petite ($200 also) and an unfair comparison against my HR Ultra Stack.

 It only took 8 days from money sent to having the D2 on my doorstep. That's amazing considering the relatively low cost for shipping and it's coming from Hong Kong._

 

It will be interesting to read your observations on the D2 before,and after 200 hrs.I agree I can not find any difference in sound after burning in amps after a couple hundred hrs.either.At least with any amps I have ever had.Who knows,my ears might have lost some of their sizzle over the years.


----------



## powertoold

TSi, I don't think capacitors have any effect on CPU overclocking. For example, by cooling the CPU more, you can achieve a higher overclock. You do not need to replace your caps with Black Gates to get a 7.1ghz overclock on liquid nitrogen 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The CPU overclocking analogy with regards to audio amps is inherently erroneous. We are not overclocking anything with amps. To make the analogy, you would have to prove that computers actually run faster and better once they are burned in. This does not happen. At least, I have never heard of it. 

 Also, your analogy relating caps to elastic bands results from a misunderstanding of caps. Caps do not act like rubber bands. Electricity is collected on two conductors a space apart, and they simply discharge... there's no stretching or anything to that effect.


 **
 I am going to doubt burn-in makes caps "better". I don't think companies that make caps compensate for any sort cap expansion or setting. If anything, companies will make their caps resistant to changes because changing the distance between the conductors in caps causes it to not perform at the rated level. 

 Anyway, I don't know. Who cares really? I don't hear burn-in, but if you do, then great 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 No one needs to enjoy your music except yourself!


----------



## Computerstud

Quote:


 Just got the D2 in yesterday, and so far I am liking it. Just need to burn it in for a couple of weeks. My only concern atm is whether anyone knows why the volume pot doesnt increase the sound past the 1 o'clock even when its spun past? I think I remember someone else mentioning it but not sure if it was in another thread about the D2.
 yeah, that was me, I didnt see much increase in sound past that position either. 
 

That's odd. My Ibasso D2 increases volume as the volume knob is turned. Pass 1 o'clock volume increases equally. Seems like some users are getting variable Ibasso D2 (high gain version, volume issues, hiss problems, etc...). Check with Ibasso and see what they can do for you.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Computerstud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_RAQemUP:
 Just got the D2 in yesterday, and so far I am liking it. Just need to burn it in for a couple of weeks. My only concern atm is whether anyone knows why the volume pot doesnt increase the sound past the 1 o'clock even when its spun past? I think I remember someone else mentioning it but not sure if it was in another thread about the D2.
 yeah, that was me, I didnt see much increase in sound past that position either.

 That's odd. My Ibasso D2 increases volume exponentially as the volume knob is turned. Pass 1 o'clock volume increases equally. Seems like some users are getting variable Ibasso D2 (high gain version, volume issues, hiss problems, etc...). Check with Ibasso and see what they can do for you._

 

I shall email them and ask why this isnt working properly ?! or maybe they intend to have it like that.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Computerstud* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 That's odd. My Ibasso D2 increases volume exponentially as the volume knob is turned. Pass 1 o'clock volume increases equally. Seems like some users are getting variable Ibasso D2 (high gain version, volume issues, hiss problems, etc...). Check with Ibasso and see what they can do for you._

 

This sounds like my D2 (high gain) No increase in sound past 1 o'clock, and the volume pot between say 10:30 ish and 11:30 is like a on/off loudness MEGA loud switch. Nothing like my P2...at all. I sent them an email and they confirmed that I do have a High gain model.


----------



## powertoold

Hehe, maybe iBasso did that on purpose, so we can be like: "omg, the D2 has so much power, I can drive my HD580s at the 11 position!".

 Seriously, if you are listening to music past the 1 position, it is too loud! I listen to my HD580s at the 11-12.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hehe, maybe iBasso did that on purpose, so we can be like: "omg, the D2 has so much power, I can drive my HD580s at the 11 position!".

 Seriously, if you are listening to music past the 1 position, it is too loud! I listen to my HD580s at the 11-12._

 

if you set ur volume on ur portable set up lower (to conserve battery) I feel that using the D2 to drive the sound is more necessary.

 This is because I want to keep the volume on my portable on volume (10-12) out of 30, to conserve battery life and use the D2 to drive it instead. I rather have my D2 run out of battery first than my portable on a long distance trip.

 But yes, if I am at home, anything over 11 position becomes a little too loud.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *brainsalad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My apologies for my cynical remarks earlier in this thread regarding amplifier burn in. I don't want a thread fight or bash anyone's opinion here. I'm not a believer in amplifier burn in but on the other hand, speakers & headphones I am. I understand all of the arguments for it and I also understand all the arguments against it. I have owned dozens and dozens of amplifiers, 7 different ones already this year, and I have yet to hear or observe a difference in any of them after 200+ hours of use. That's my observation and my opinion. 

 Now, back to topic. Here's what's frustrating... My D2 came yesterday. It's at home, unopened on my desk and I am in FL on business and won't be home for another week. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 When I get back I will be posting my observations on the D2 compared against the Go-Vibe Petite ($200 also) and an unfair comparison against my HR Ultra Stack.

 It only took 8 days from money sent to having the D2 on my doorstep. That's amazing considering the relatively low cost for shipping and it's coming from Hong Kong._

 

Looking forward to your impressions! Hopefully we can all be on the same page about the D2 eh?


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hehe, maybe iBasso did that on purpose, so we can be like: "omg, the D2 has so much power, I can drive my HD580s at the 11 position!".

 Seriously, if you are listening to music past the 1 position, it is too loud! I listen to my HD580s at the 11-12._

 

Typically I would agree with you. But using my k701's and certain tracks, 12 o'clock isnt *too* loud. I found out that, that combo really bring out the worst in the high gain model (IMHO) I posted about my findings on the High gain model with my K701's, but Im sure it got lost in all the Overclocking mumbo jumbo. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Easier to drive cans seem to mask the short comings of the high gain D2 at high volumes, because it's just too loud to really listen too.


----------



## powertoold

Hmm, I have always wondered: if you connect a portable player to your amp at max volume and play at low volume on your amp, wouldn't the portable player not waste that much battery? If it did, where would the energy go? I don't think the amp would get hot, so I would guess that the portable player would not waste much battery even at max volume connected to an amp.

 For example, using my LOD for the iPod, I don't lose that much battery life (iPod) compared to listening to the headphone out. Since the LOD volume is like super loud, I am led to believe that the volume coming out of the portable player is not much of a factor in battery life.

 Someone slap me in the right direction


----------



## souperman

Everybody should make sure that the USB DAC's volume on windows is set to 100%.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Everybody should make sure that the USB DAC's volume on windows is set to 100%._

 

mine USB DAC volume on MAC is set to 0%... somehow when it goes through to the USB, the usb basically controls all the sound volume.


----------



## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Everybody should make sure that the USB DAC's volume on windows is set to 100%._

 

Wouldn't it be better to set the usb volume lower and be able to set the volume on the amp louder to eliminate channel imbalance?


----------



## jamato8

My volume out on the digital USB on my Mac PowerBook G4 is always at max.


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *circuithero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wouldn't it be better to set the usb volume lower and be able to set the volume on the amp louder to eliminate channel imbalance?_

 

No...it would be best to have the max signal fed into the DAC/Amp or around 80%.


----------



## RAQemUP

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I shall email them and ask why this isnt working properly ?! or maybe they intend to have it like that._

 

Thanks ahead of time, look forward to what they say. Other then that, I really like what I am hearing from this amp. Hopefully the fix doesn't involve shipping the entire thing back to China.

 Someone mentioned that they were gettting a new PCB in the mail to replace their current one inside. I wonder if they would do this for us with volume/high gain issues that are not afraid of opening up the amp ourselves.

 On a lighter note since these dip socket D2s are being made in limited supply, I wonder if these problems or people getting new PCBs in the mail are shortening that said limited supply.


----------



## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No...it would be best to have the max signal fed into the DAC/Amp or around 80%._

 

Ok thanks, running foobar at 100%


----------



## souperman

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *circuithero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok thanks, running foobar at 100% 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

That AND when you go into the control panel, make sure the USB/Dac 100% also. This way you can feed the DAC/Amp the max signal possible.


----------



## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *souperman* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That AND when you go into the control panel, make sure the USB/Dac 100% also. This way you can feed the DAC/Amp the max signal possible._

 

Why yes it is!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

LOWERING DIGITAL USB VOLUME IS NOT GOOD. If you lower the digital volume below 100% when going through USB DAC the outbound signal can drop below 16 bits, to 14 or 12 bits. When using USB out, the PC/Mac should be at 100%. When using analog out I usually set the volume for about 60-80% of max.

 Second - my volume control is pretty linear, and as I turn up the volume it gets louder and louder, even going from 2 o'clock to 4'oclock, so I don't have diminishing returns after 1 o'clock like some report. Mine works this way in low or high gain. I put in some foam earplugs and then my ALO re-cabled HFI780, and I could get to max volume in high gain, with almost no distortion, with USB Audio digital volume set to 100% !! That would be painful without the earplugs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I have almost 138 hours on the D2 and it seems like most of the changes were done in the first 100 hours. Everything from this point has been subtle, in terms of increased smoothness and transparency or tighter more controlled bass. I can say that it now sounds better than my Meier HeadFive AC powered amp. I tried my new (old) ATH-W11R with the HeadFive and was very disappointed with my first listen, but with the D2 they sound better. And the Headfive was via the iRiver optical out to optical DAC, while the D2 was powered right out of the iRiver H140 headphone out simultaneously with the optical out! With the DV336i tube amp the ATH sound even better, but that is expected.

 I have had some headphone amps that sound good out of the box and don't change very much with burn-in (iBasso P2, Meier HeadSix, Headstage Lyrix), while my RSA Predator sounded bad when new and took over 1,000 hours to burn-in. The iBasso D1 was a bit harsh till 400 hours, and took 250-275 hours to get a hard hitting bass. But, I compare my new amps vs a one amp with tons of hours that I can use as a measuring stick. So, then I go back and compare them each day or so. Doing this I can usually hear some improvements, even small ones, exactly like what I have described above (transparency, bass control, smoothness). The HeadFive sounded better than the D2 about 136 hours ago, now it is the other way around. The HeadFive is very well burned-in and is not changing.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


 Hello, Michael,
 Thank you for your email.
 First, the D2's knob is B50K knob. with this knob, the volume increase very fast on the middle, but, within 1:00~3:00, the volume increse slowly. within 3:00~5:00, the volume increase in a very little amount. This is normal.
 The volume is limited by the gain setting. Since this is a battery powered amp, we cant set the gain to a very high level. +11dB is enough for all the portable audio device.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio 
 

This is what they said to me.

 of course, that led to me asking why there are a few others with the +3/+11 dB Vipers getting significant volume change =D


----------



## RAQemUP

That's interesting that its normal for the volume knob to not increase volume evenly across the entire turn. If it's normal, I guess its so you don't kill your ears? I don't know. Messing with it again now I still can't tell any change in volume increase spinning the knob from 1 o'clock and past, not even in slow increments. It's a good thing I like what I hear normally even if I do wish it could go slightly louder when using with big cans.

 On a different note, those who were accidentally sent high gain models were told they had one through email without asking correct?


----------



## powertoold

Are you guys not getting much volume change after 1' even with low gain?


----------



## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *RAQemUP* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's interesting that its normal for the volume knob to not increase volume evenly across the entire turn. If it's normal, I guess its so you don't kill your ears? I don't know. Messing with it again now I still can't tell any change in volume increase spinning the knob from 1 o'clock and past, not even in slow increments. It's a good thing I like what I hear normally even if I do wish it could go slightly louder when using with big cans.

 On a different note, those who were accidentally sent high gain models were told they had one through email without asking correct?_

 

Correct. If you replied quickly, the replacement pcb should be shipping in a few hours.


----------



## ack_0220

Anyone cross the magic marker of 400 hours?


----------



## mrarroyo

Received my D2 today! Great looking unit, the burn-in has started. What is the target? 400 hours. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Here are some pictures, please click on the thumbnail to view the full size picture. Included my iModded 4th Gen 60 Gb iPod Photo for size comparison.

















 Will keep you posted.


----------



## dap_pad

Nice! How did you open your D2? Look forward to your impressions.


----------



## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ack_0220* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone cross the magic marker of 400 hours?_

 

Since everyone only started getting them last week I would say no.


----------



## jamato8

Well I just returned from the future. Not bad at all but I went too far and my D2 battery had died and nothing like it was available any longer. They had these tiny cells that stuck to a recess and powered without recharge or wire connections for 1000's of hours but alas, the D2 was not set up for this and all I could do was gently stroke it and wonder. :^)


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ack_0220* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone cross the magic marker of 400 hours?_

 

For me the magic 400 will be March-26th 2008.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

160 hours now.

 I've got a little bass boost again earlier today that is just now starting to tone down back to normal again, and the mids are just a little recessed, which helps with the forward sound of ALO modded 780's a bit (if not for the bass). Not that it sounds bad or anything, but the 780's have enough bass already. If you wonder why I am always doing this with the 780's, I have time about 11pm each night to listen for the changes, and I can't disturb my wife in the bed next to me. 

 I switched from the analog out from my iRiver when I heard that, and I'm listening through the Macbook with the same Apple lossless files but now through the D2 USB, and it seems the bass bump is in the amp.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_160 hours now.

 I've got a little bass boost again earlier today that is just now starting to tone down back to normal again, and the mids are just a little recessed, which helps with the forward sound of ALO modded 780's a bit (if not for the bass). Not that it sounds bad or anything, but the 780's have enough bass already. If you wonder why I am always doing this with the 780's, I have time about 11pm each night to listen for the changes, and I can't disturb my wife in the bed next to me. 

 I switched from the analog out from my iRiver when I heard that, and I'm listening through the Macbook with the same Apple lossless files but now through the D2 USB, and it seems the bass bump is in the amp._

 

I just want to know how you are sure it isn't just your aural perception changing throughout the day. The most sensible explanation for something sounding different in the morning versus the evening is my ears are less sensitive to sound later in the day. Also, my perception also changes if I listen to a bass-light headphone and then change to a more bassy headphone.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just want to know how you are sure it isn't just your aural perception changing throughout the day. The most sensible explanation for something sounding different in the morning versus the evening is my ears are less sensitive to sound later in the day. Also, my perception also changes if I listen to a bass-light headphone and then change to a more bassy headphone._


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Are you guys not getting much volume change after 1' even with low gain?_

 

yeah. after 1:00, the sound increase isnt much or it doesnt increase at all.


----------



## powertoold

I have a 3/11 D2, and the sound doesn't increase much after 1-2' too, so it isn't a problem with the high gain amps.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_160 hours now.

 I've got a little bass boost again earlier today that is just now starting to tone down back to normal again, and the mids are just a little recessed, which helps with the forward sound of ALO modded 780's a bit (if not for the bass). Not that it sounds bad or anything, but the 780's have enough bass already. If you wonder why I am always doing this with the 780's, I have time about 11pm each night to listen for the changes, and I can't disturb my wife in the bed next to me. 

 I switched from the analog out from my iRiver when I heard that, and I'm listening through the Macbook with the same Apple lossless files but now through the D2 USB, and it seems the bass bump is in the amp._

 

Thanks for your impressions. How is the Synergy from the D2 with the 780's, and how does this duo do with Jazz. I noticed you listen to some of the same things I do (jazz wise) Everybody is ranting how the 780's are great for rock and Bass heavy music. ( i know you have the ALO mod but you also have plenty of hours with stock 780's) Im thinkin about some 780's (closed can to keep the wife from givin me the evil eye when she's watchin TV in bed) So Your D2/780 impressions will help me out here. 
 TIA


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your impressions. How is the Synergy from the D2 with the 780's, and how does this duo do with Jazz. I noticed you listen to some of the same things I do (jazz wise) Everybody is ranting how the 780's are great for rock and Bass heavy music. ( i know you have the ALO mod but you also have plenty of hours with stock 780's) Im thinkin about some 780's (closed can to keep the wife from givin me the evil eye when she's watchin TV in bed) So Your D2/780 impressions will help me out here. 
 TIA_

 

I'm glad I'm divorced,and have no one to disturb.It's pure audio heaven now.LOL


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for your impressions. How is the Synergy from the D2 with the 780's, and how does this duo do with Jazz. I noticed you listen to some of the same things I do (jazz wise) Everybody is ranting how the 780's are great for rock and Bass heavy music. ( i know you have the ALO mod but you also have plenty of hours with stock 780's) Im thinkin about some 780's (closed can to keep the wife from givin me the evil eye when she's watchin TV in bed) So Your D2/780 impressions will help me out here. 
 TIA_

 

I listen to 60% jazz, 10% classical, 20% electronic and new age, and 10% rock.

 I think the D2 is doing some funny changes the past 36 hours while it burns in, that I'm not sure I like. I've got 440 hours on the 780's and they have been stable for half that time, and were the main headphones I was using to listen to the D2 burn-in, because they are very resolving transparent and fun at the same time. 

 The 780 are great with Jazz, with most of my amps, but at 172 hours right now the iBasso D2 doesn't have the best synergy with the 780's (USB or analog in) like it did before. I think it is just part of the burn-in. With my iMod and a simple 22G cryo dock my *1 hour old Headroom 2006 Micro Amp sounds better with the 780's than the 172 hour D2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


* Yeah, the fresh out of the box HR Micro Amp B-Stock 2006 model at $299 probably should sound better, but it isn't even burned in at all unless HR does that in house.

 The D2 was much better with the 780 a couple of days ago, but yesterday AM I wasn't feeling it. The D2 still has this over-powerful bass with the 780 right now, so I just now switched to some simple SR-60 with Headphile unported C-pads (all I have with me right now) - the bass usually bothers me with that combo of pads, and the D2 sounds pretty good with this setup. The bass is just right, and the mids are not a little hollow, and the highs aren't turned up. So I am totally baffled. I suppose there is something about the impedance, or who knows what in the synergy with the SR-60/C-pads, that at this point in the burn-in I'm not feeling with the D2. 

 Then again, it might be my feeble 45 yr 11 mo and 30 day old mind playing tricks on me, or a psychoacoustic hallucination, or fabrication, or maybe I'm not even typing this right now. Right Powertoold?


----------



## ndskyz

^LOL good one. Thanks for the info. I listen to about 75% Jazz, 10% Rock 10% R&B, 5% classical. So Jazz is pretty big on my list for Headphones. I've actually stop listening to my D2 I dont like the high gain model at all, and once I get the replacement PCB, I'll give it another shot, (fingers crossed) I havent ruled the 780's out just yet. More than likely I'll end up with a pair. Thanks again.


----------



## ack_0220

Mine just arrive this afternoon, only had a couple of hours with it....first impression, i would say the DAC is pretty good. Not too convinced with the amplifier......i am not sure whether it is the burn in effect or my earphones....although it has no problem powering the MylarX3i.....i can't feel awful lot of improvement........bass is tight, but boomy...soundstage is not alot wider.....slightly more depth. I would like to think it is the Mylar that is not capable of delivering......will get my PK1 this sunday...hopefully things will go better.

 P.S i have this problem, i hear very loud buzz when i switch it to low gain and plug the power in. Put it on high gain and it is gone. Unplug the power then everything is fine. Is it normal?


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ack_0220* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mine just arrive this afternoon, only had a couple of hours with it....first impression, i would say the DAC is pretty good. Not too convinced with the amplifier......i am not sure whether it is the burn in effect or my earphones....although it has no problem powering the MylarX3i.....i can't feel awful lot of improvement........bass is tight, but boomy...soundstage is not alot wider.....slightly more depth. I would like to think it is the Mylar that is not capable of delivering......will get my PK1 this sunday...hopefully things will go better.

 P.S i have this problem, i hear very loud buzz when i switch it to low gain and plug the power in. Put it on high gain and it is gone. Unplug the power then everything is fine. Is it normal?_

 

Buzzing is normal, except when it's on. I don't have any "loud buzz" when it's on.

 As for improvement, you have to listen carefully for a while before you start noticing differences. I don't really compare anymore. I just try to remember whether or not I liked the D2 better than in the past lol.


----------



## Rickio

Just got the ibasso D2, cool lookin little amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 compared it briefly to my go vibe petite and portaphile v2* maxxed, dont know how to make that little 2 so I put a * there hehehe

 Well needs burn for sure but my quick impressions... Well I am comparing to portaphile which I really have liked a lot. Portaphile is crisper and clearer, very smooth. Go vibe is warmer fuller sound compared to the Portaphile and the go vibe dac seems very strong crisp and defining compared to the ibasso D2 Dac right now.

 I don't really know how to describe the sound but the go vibe petite dac is really good compared to it's straight amp and the ibasso amp to dac is not as big a change compared to the go vibe petite.

 comparing the two dacs the go vibes seems simply stronger. that does not sound like a good description but its just crisper and louder, very good all around. the ibasso has a little bit of a rounder deeper bass, but just a bit and its only been on not even hour. 

 so i guess it means not much yet hehehe but the biggest difference right now seems to be the dac right now. both sound great but go vibe petite seems better as far as the dac is concerned. Just amp I think ibasso is better because of its deeper bass right now.

 both go vibe petite and ibasso D2 are to my ears warm sounding and I am comparing to portaphile. But warm in a good way especially with alo 780 right now. I think ibasso is a tiny bit less warm then go vibes petite.

 as i said my sense of warmth comes from my comparing to portaphile and i also have a go vibe v7 as well and that is even brighter then the portaphile which I always felt was perfect. I also own a Hornet and I prefer the Portaphile.

 The other details is go vibe is smaller but then again I now have the option to roll the opamps so in the long run, considering... I think the ibasso has more potential simply as I can roll the opamps. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The differences are not major, but I would like to hear other comments on the Dac etc also time will tell more...


----------



## ack_0220

I've tried feeding my speakers with the iBasso and used it as a pre-amp. Not bad actually..... I guess it needs time to burn it to give it a fair review. I am not going to comment on the amplifier for now. As for the DAC, i actually did a comparison with my Citypulse DA7.2x. For your information, the DA7.2x is a DAC plus headphone amplifier and i see the iBasso as a Headphone amplifier plus DAC.

 I output both to my powered speakers as a pre-amp, playing a dynamic test drum solo and a few jazz sampler from Chesky record. First of all, the iBasso sounded very bright and lack of bass, the bass drums just don't vibrate as deep as it should, where as the DA7.2x had this covered. Overall, the iBasso just lack the warmth but very focus, instrument seperation are better with the iBasso and it also manage to drive the speakers louder without distortion. I would say the iBasso is strong at its amplifier but weaker on the digital to analog conversion. 

 Don't get me wrong, i still think that the iBasso DAC is pretty good, man just look at the size of it for start. The Citypulse is 10 times larger than it and it is a dedicated DAC and cost twice as much...i am actually quite impress with the iBasso DAC. Not the best around but certainly useful as a portable. I am more interested in seeing how it perform as an amp. I'll let this thing burn in for a while and hope for the best.


----------



## kamal007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rickio* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got the ibasso D2, cool lookin little amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 compared it briefly to my go vibe petite and portaphile v2* maxxed, dont know how to make that little 2 so I put a * there hehehe

 Well needs burn for sure but my quick impressions... Well I am comparing to portaphile which I really have liked a lot. Portaphile is crisper and clearer, very smooth. Go vibe is warmer fuller sound compared to the Portaphile and the go vibe dac seems very strong crisp and defining compared to the ibasso D2 Dac right now.

 I don't really know how to describe the sound but the go vibe petite dac is really good compared to it's straight amp and the ibasso amp to dac is not as big a change compared to the go vibe petite.

 comparing the two dacs the go vibes seems simply stronger. that does not sound like a good description but its just crisper and louder, very good all around. the ibasso has a little bit of a rounder deeper bass, but just a bit and its only been on not even hour. 

 so i guess it means not much yet hehehe but the biggest difference right now seems to be the dac right now. both sound great but go vibe petite seems better as far as the dac is concerned. Just amp I think ibasso is better because of its deeper bass right now.

 both go vibe petite and ibasso D2 are to my ears warm sounding and I am comparing to portaphile. But warm in a good way especially with alo 780 right now. I think ibasso is a tiny bit less warm then go vibes petite.

 as i said my sense of warmth comes from my comparing to portaphile and i also have a go vibe v7 as well and that is even brighter then the portaphile which I always felt was perfect. I also own a Hornet and I prefer the Portaphile.

 The other details is go vibe is smaller but then again I now have the option to roll the opamps so in the long run, considering... I think the ibasso has more potential simply as I can roll the opamps. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The differences are not major, but I would like to hear other comments on the Dac etc also time will tell more..._

 

the petite is smaller? can you post some pics comparing them?


----------



## Rickio

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kamal007* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_the petite is smaller? can you post some pics comparing them?_

 











 snapped these real quick. Yup go vibe petite is smaller. I connected the power cord to the D2 and it sounded better, but compared DAC between the two and Petite is not just a little bit better. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It just is better and somehow I don't remember the unburned petite sounding this bad. So either they change substantially or petite just sounds better. Dac that is, stock.

 honestly i only had this a few hours so what ever it sounds like is still up in the air but the petite did sound better right from the start. So let's see what happens here.


----------



## kamal007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Rickio* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 snapped these real quick. Yup go vibe petite is smaller. I connected the power cord to the D2 and it sounded better, but compared DAC between the two and Petite is not just a little bit better. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It just is better and somehow I don't remember the unburned petite sounding this bad. So either they change substantially or petite just sounds better. Dac that is, stock.

 honestly i only had this a few hours so what ever it sounds like is still up in the air but the petite did sound better right from the start. So let's see what happens here._

 

Thanks for the nice pics. Definitely let the D2 to be fully burned in and do compare them both since they really compete well in the under $250 portable amp/dac combo.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

My D2 comparison thread, for those interested: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/min...-lyrix-306883/


----------



## jamato8

Knowing how long the Predator takes to burn-in, due to its large cap, which the Viper does not have but still knowing from experience that these things take time due to the low current being used, I think the Viper needs a few more hundred hours to know where it will really end up. Good review though and I know it isn't always easy going back and forth.


----------



## Double Edge

Just reporting in from an objective view. I have been listening to un-amped sound via a vanilla soundblaster2 and ipod for years now through my 240s' until recently reading about the D1 pairing well with AKGs. Seeing that the D2 had just started shipping with a reduced price and nicer DAC, I went ahead and ordered. The sound that I get from my AKG 240s' with the D2 and ASIO4ALL is pretty amazing I must say. There is new fidelity that is so clear it makes me nauseous at times when hearing some electronics that use a box wave. My two complaints is that the cans get some light static sound when the amp is plugged in via usb and the power is off. Also the left audio channel is weak at low amp volumes.

 Honestly I was skeptical that an amp would make any kind of difference other than the logic of it hammered into my brain from the electrical engineering classes I have been in. Now hearing it in person, I can only imagine what my library will sound like when I get the k701s I have ordered


----------



## ack_0220

Hi guys,

 I still have this problem with my D2.....when i plug in the power cord, i hear a static sound whether power on or off when i put it into low gain. Without the power cord, everything is working greatly. Is this normal?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ack_0220* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys,

 I still have this problem with my D2.....when i plug in the power cord, i hear a static sound whether power on or off when i put it into low gain. Without the power cord, everything is working greatly. Is this normal?_

 

It appears that the charging chip used by iBasso does put out some interference when in use and the battery is between the boards. For some reason I don't have this problem but I am not using IEM's right now either. I can hear it on high gain but nothing on low or maybe it is the other way around but either way it is very minimal.


----------



## tk3

I like the form factor of the D2, seems like it would mate pretty well with some of the iPods.
 I don't see where this "as small as possible" fixation that some people have comes from, it's not logical.
 Unless it's so small like a SuperMicro IV where you can adhere it to the top of the iPod or something, the iPod would just stick out if you bind them together with elastics.


----------



## jamato8

The screws on my D2 are allen wrench not torx as some have posted.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Just got my D2 today and I must say that I really like it. I get this static thing too but I don't hear it at all when listening to music.

 Anyway the sound is awesome.

 Btw. I opened the D2 with an allen wrench too I had on my leatherman. The right size is 1/16.


----------



## ack_0220

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It appears that the charging chip used by iBasso does put out some interference when in use and the battery is between the boards. For some reason I don't have this problem but I am not using IEM's right now either. I can hear it on high gain but nothing on low or maybe it is the other way around but either way it is very minimal._

 

THe thing is, i hear very loud static on low gain even when the D2 is playing music when the power is pluged in. Is this normal? Should i consult iBasso about it?


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The screws on my D2 are allen wrench not torx as some have posted._

 

Is the allen wrench metric ?Also what size,or number is the wrench?


----------



## Rickio

I don't hear any static and only hear a click when going from low to high gain but not going from high to low.

 It's totally clean sound, other then needing burn in and sounding a bit off, like bass and treble need tightening and smoothing out.


----------



## powertoold

I went to Ace and tried all their small Allen wrenches, and none of them worked. I guess some people have finer increments of hex keys.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I went to Ace and tried all their small Allen wrenches, and none of them worked. I guess some people have finer increments of hex keys._

 

My D2 case screws are NOT hex or Allen, they take a T-6 Torx. Maybe they weren't all made with one type of screw. For grins, try a T-6.


----------



## HiFlight

For want of anything better to do, I decided to try to see how close I could come to the sound of my iQube. As neither my D2 or my iQube have many hours yet, this comparison may not hold up, but I found that the soundstage of the ISL55002/THS4032 was different than that of my iQube. Tonally, they were closer than one would imagine considering the difference in cost. 

 After trying several of my "top tier" opamps, I found that the combination that sounded the closest to the iQube was the LM6172 in both IC-2 and IC-7. This combination moves the soundstage further away as compared to the previous combo. 

 Bass is tamed a bit more and a little tighter. Depth of soundstage is greater, but for those who prefer to be immersed in the music, maybe the 55002/4032 might be preferable. 

 I wouldn't say one is really better than the other, just a little different with the 6172s more similar to the iQube, if that is the sound one prefers. 

 A couple of bonuses in favor of the 6172 is that it draws only 2.3 ma per channel while outputting about 50 ma/channel. It also is available in DIP configuration, which means no adapters are needed. 

 I would be interested in hearing comments regarding your opinions and comparisons of these 2 configurations.


----------



## kamal007

So, will this work?

Faceplate TORX Screwdriver T6 T-6 Torx 6 Repair Tool - eBay (item 370030989474 end time Mar-16-08 19:07:42 PDT)

 or should i go for a hex key like this:

DealExtreme: $4.32 7-Piece Set Hex Key Wrenches (0.7~3mm)


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ack_0220* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_THe thing is, i hear very loud static on low gain even when the D2 is playing music when the power is pluged in. Is this normal? Should i consult iBasso about it?_

 

It appears that some have this interference. Does it have this when not charging?


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kamal007* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So, will this work?

Faceplate TORX Screwdriver T6 T-6 Torx 6 Repair Tool - eBay (item 370030989474 end time Mar-16-08 19:07:42 PDT)

 or should i go for a hex key like this:

DealExtreme: $4.32 7-Piece Set Hex Key Wrenches (0.7~3mm)_

 

The ebay item,if you notice is a Magnetized tip.I don't believe a magnetized tip would be a nice thing around electronic chips.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

As I said mine opens perfectly with an 1/16 allen wrench which was on my Leatherman.

 Btw. just wanted to say that I like the looks of the D2 in reality much more than on the pictures. Comparing the D2 and the pico in some pics I prefered the looks of the pico. But the D2 looks so much better in person and the volume knob isn't that bulky as it looks in the pics either.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jaw007* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The ebay item,if you notice is a Magnetized tip.I don't believe a magnetized tip would be a nice thing around electronic chips._

 



 Shouldn't be a problem at all. There is no disk or flash drive in the D2.


----------



## jamato8

The D2 is very different looking from everything else I have. It is distinctive and for me it wasn't an instant, wow but it has grown on me and I really like the looks now. I prefer this sometimes as it requires more than the standard single look of approval or not. 

 The sound for me as the unit burns in is that it is getting more open and is very harmonic (good guitar hanging notes but no blurring). The sound is slightly warm but only slightly, which to my ear is more neutral and analog like. The bass is good but the lower reach needs maturing. More time is needed.


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Shouldn't be a problem at all. There is no disk or flash drive in the D2._

 

Thank you for the information.


----------



## ack_0220

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It appears that some have this interference. Does it have this when not charging?_

 

As long as the power cord is plug in a main switch turn on, it has this very loud static whether charging or not, fully charged, on or off. only when it is switch to high gain or unplug the usb or the power that it goes away.


----------



## Rickio

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The D2 is very different looking from everything else I have. It is distinctive and for me it wasn't an instant, wow but it has grown on me and I really like the looks now. I prefer this sometimes as it requires more than the standard single look of approval or not. 

 The sound for me as the unit burns in is that it is getting more open and is very harmonic (good guitar hanging notes but no blurring). The sound is slightly warm but only slightly, which to my ear is more neutral and analog like. The bass is good but the lower reach needs maturing. More time is needed._

 

I like your description and I am also agreeing with the slight warmness which is very nice and quite good for can's like the hfi 780...mine is also sounding better today compared to at first. I am beginning to hear it's potentiall now.


----------



## powertoold

Anyone else tried HiFlight's opamp config yet? I have 5 IS55002 and am waiting for my THS chips.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ack_0220* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As long as the power cord is plug in a main switch turn on, it has this very loud static whether charging or not, fully charged, on or off. only when it is switch to high gain or unplug the usb or the power that it goes away._

 

It sounds like a grounding issue. This was addressed in a post. The anodizing acts as an insulator, not a very good one but it does work and so you are not getting a grounding to the case. Where the board slides in needs to have the anodizing taken off with a bit of sand paper or something like a finger nail file. The other option is to send it back to iBasso.


----------



## ack_0220

I saw that thread as well, but i am too busy with my work to try it out now. I believe you guys are right on that issue, i don't think mine is grounded properly. I've consult iBasso about it....will see how they respond. Thanks..


----------



## powertoold

I don't recommend the ISL55002 opamp for IEMs. They are too noisy, and they don't seem that great with my headphones either. I went back to my 4841 and 8599 in buffer.

 Edit: I switched the 8599 to the main opamp and put the 4841 as buffer. I think this is a great combination for me because it sounds a bit lighter on the bass. I thought my FreQs were bass heavy with the other opamps, so this works for me. I totally recommend the AD8599 for IEMs. They're great.


----------



## greenzee

After a couple of weeks with my D2, and allegedly a high gain version at that, I am really pleased with the unit. I'm especially enjoying my KSC75's with my Zune/D2 combo. There's a really nice symmetry with these headphones. The low end of this amp is very noticeable, and adds a nice presence to many pieces of music that was lacking before. 

 I have a replacement low gain PCB en route. Might be interesting to do a side by side when this one arrives. Time to build up the opamp stash I suppose.


----------



## jamato8

I will probably write a mini review but I picked up an IC from iBasso that they have on their web site. I was curious because the price is good and I wanted to try an aftermarket IC besides my own.

 This IC is very well made and after 100 hours or so sounds very good. The connecters are well made and the whole assembly is quality. This is a nice change from some of the cheap IC's we often see and some of the mega buck ones on the market that can cost half as much as the amp.


----------



## mrarroyo

I do not know if this has been discussed, but how long does the battery last as an amp only? Thanks.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I have never clock watched, but I know it is over 12 hours. Not sure by how much other than it was still running at 12 and I left for a while and it ran out in less than 18 hours while I was gone.


----------



## KillerPotato

Has anyone been able to compare the D2 to the Leckerton UHA-3? I'm really enjoying the UHA-3 with the DT770, but theyre almost the same price and I can still send back the UHA-3 for a full refund if it's worthwhile.


----------



## powertoold

With the AD8599 replacing the LT1364, the D2 sounds amazing with IEMs. omGJdklsfkas there's almost no background hiss with my sensitive FreQs. The soundstage, imaging, speed, and clarity are top-notch. I love it. I hope there are better opamps out there too! I love opamp rolling ability!


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do not know if this has been discussed, but how long does the battery last as an amp only? Thanks._

 

ive ran it from for 15 hours straight through macbook usb to d2 using pink noise at about 12:00 position.

 so id say, its about 15 hours as amp/dac?


----------



## ack_0220

I asked iBasso about the static i was having during low gain and power on, here is the reply

 Hello, Andrew,
 Thank you for your email.
 The D2 is not designed to use when charge. When the power cable is plugged, the charging management chip will produce interference, especially, when the gain switch is in the low gain position. If you unplug the power cable. The buzz will gone.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio

 I guess we better not use the D2 with the power plugged in. Strangely, i find it sounding better with the power in, isn't it suppose to be the other way round where the battery source are much cleaner?


----------



## MONVMENTVM

As I already said you should either send them back so they can fix the anodization or you do my mod yourself. It's not hard and it should work then. I don't get any buzzing anymore by simply plugging in the power adapter. No matter if I set it on low or high gain and no matter if it is turned on or off. The only time I get buzzing is when I plug in the power adapter AND usb cable, but as soon as I turn on the amp, the buzzing disappears (even if no music is running).

 Btw.: Power from the power adapter is fluctuating while battery power is more constant. But if you don't get any buzzing I'd say: It maybe does matter in theory but not in reality. I played some music, then I plugged in the power adapter, listened again a bit, then unplugged it and so on... and guess what: I hear no difference at all. But just to remind you I tested this after modding it, so I don't know if there is a difference for a non-modded D2.


----------



## ack_0220

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As I already said you should either send them back so they can fix the anodization or you do my mod yourself. It's not hard and it should work then. I don't get any buzzing anymore by simply plugging in the power adapter. No matter if I set it on low or high gain and no matter if it is turned on or off. The only time I get buzzing is when I plug in the power adapter AND usb cable, but as soon as I turn on the amp, the buzzing disappears (even if no music is running).

 Btw.: Power from the power adapter is fluctuating while battery power is more constant. But if you don't get any buzzing I'd say: It maybe does matter in theory but not in reality. I played some music, then I plugged in the power adapter, listened again a bit, then unplugged it and so on... and guess what: I hear no difference at all. But just to remind you I tested this after modding it, so I don't know if there is a difference for a non-modded D2._

 

Thanks alot, i actually tried opening it with some SI unit Allens, no luck....was really busy with work lately, i'll do the mod the in the next few days. You know what tools i can use to open it?

 P.S, with the power plugged in, it sounds brighter and slightly louder, maybe giving the false impression of it sounds clearer.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Hmm... interesting. It doesn't get brighter nor louder when the power is plugged in on my D2.

 Maybe you have a high gain unit?

 Btw. mine opened with an 1/16 allen wrench of my Leatherman ^^.


----------



## kamal007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm... interesting. It doesn't get brighter nor louder when the power is plugged in on my D2.

 Maybe you have a high gain unit?

 Btw. mine opened with an 1/16 allen wrench of my Leatherman ^^._

 

before your mod, did you hear the buzz when the music is on or when the unit is completely turned off?


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kamal007* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_before your mod, did you hear the buzz when the music is on or when the unit is completely turned off?_

 

With music I couldn't hear it but I did this mod already on the second day owning it, so it might be that I didn't concentrate enough to hear the buzz.

 But I am sure that I heard it when I plugged in both the power adapter and the USB cable WHILE the unit was turned off. And I remind that when both things were plugged in, as soon as I switched to high gain mode or turned on the unit, the static was gone - even without music.

 Now it doesn't matter what I plug in and if the unit is turned off or on.


----------



## onlychild

Just received my low gain PCB. Got to commend iBasso service for including an allen wrench to open the case.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *onlychild* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received my low gain PCB. Got to commend iBasso service for including an allen wrench to open the case._

 

Same here. All I can say is..There is a night and day difference between the High gain and normal model. If *EVER *there is an argument for the "louder doesnt mean better" argument. This should/IS a prime example that louder isnt better. I've been swapping back and forth between the two for the past hour (not an A/B because I have to swap the op-amps) but the "low gain" is so much easier to listen too. It has to work harder to drive my K701's (Vol pot at 12-1 instead of 10:30 11) but the music actually sounds good. The High gain is just LOUD. I grew to dislike my high gain model for the couple of weeks I've had it. It sounded nothing like my P2. I personally dont see how or why anyone would want that version. But to each his own. At any rate. I had thoughs of selling my D2 if I didnt like the low gain model. But now color me happy with the low gain model. Time to get to breakin it in.


----------



## circuithero

My screws got stripped


----------



## powertoold

That's why you use the exact sized driver and don't force anything. With small screws, you need to be extremely careful if you want them to last. I have opened and closed my D2 10+ times with the Torx T6, and they (screws) still look like new.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have never clock watched, but I know it is over 12 hours. Not sure by how much other than it was still running at 12 and I left for a while and it ran out in less than 18 hours while I was gone._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ive ran it from for 15 hours straight through macbook usb to d2 using pink noise at about 12:00 position.

 so id say, its about 15 hours as amp/dac?_

 

I am also getting about 15-18 hours. Good, now that is settled!


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *circuithero* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My screws got stripped 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Not a problem, get loctite the one that is meant to be unscrewed. I say so because loctite makes a formula that you can not unscrew.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *onlychild* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just received my low gain PCB. Got to commend iBasso service for including an allen wrench to open the case._

 

What do you mean by low gain version? Thanks.


----------



## breakfastchef

This may not be the best place to make this comment, but I am real happy with the quality of the D1. I am also glad I did not move on the D2. It really puzzles me that iBasso did not better check the D2 out before releasing it, particularly the evil grounding issue. Thanks to all of you that were the 'sacrificial guinea pigs' on this experiment. I hope the long term burn ins show this amp to be a big time performer.


----------



## kamal007

lastly,
 will this work? 
DealExtreme: $1.97 Pozi-Driv T6 40mm Screwdriver for Electronics DIY
 or can anyone point me to a cheapo hex,torx or allen key that will open up the D2?


----------



## onlychild

I just swapped the low gain PCB replacement with the original high-gain one, but now all my IEMs get extremely hot within 5 minutes with this new PCB. I can't keep them in my ear for more than 5 mins.. They also feel hot to the touch. 

 This happens when the unit is charging and I'm using it. If I use the battery instead, my headphones get warm, but not hot. 

 Any ideas what might be wrong. On the original PCB, my IEMs never even got warm no matter how long I used them or if I was charging it or not. Did not matter.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What do you mean by low gain version? Thanks._

 

iBasso apparently made some "made to order" high gain version of the D2 for a customer. The Low gain version is the original version that the average customer was supposed to get. They sent some of the high gain version's out to a few of us here by mistake, and then sent replacement "low gain" versions PCB to replace the high gain.


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *onlychild* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just swapped the low gain PCB replacement with the original high-gain one, but now all my IEMs get extremely hot within 5 minutes with this new PCB. I can't keep them in my ear for more than 5 mins.. They also feel hot to the touch. 

 This happens when the unit is charging and I'm using it. If I use the battery instead, my headphones get warm, but not hot. 

 Any ideas what might be wrong. On the original PCB, my IEMs never even got warm no matter how long I used them or if I was charging it or not. Did not matter._

 

You might PM HighFlight,and ask him.Also I wouldn't use the amp until someone knowledgeable enough about this can help out.Heat is not good for IEM's.


----------



## onlychild

I am definitely not using it. I have emailed them and will wait for an answer. I just hope I did not damage my Klipsch Images. I only let them heat up for about 5 minutes before I quickly unplugged them.


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *onlychild* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am definitely not using it. I have emailed them and will wait for an answer. I just hope I did not damage my Klipsch Images. I only let them heat up for about 5 minutes before I quickly unplugged them._

 

Wow I hope you didn't damage your Klipsch Images.It doesn't take long to ruin Iem's when they heat up for a period of time.Good luck.


----------



## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_That's why you use the exact sized driver and don't force anything. With small screws, you need to be extremely careful if you want them to last. I have opened and closed my D2 10+ times with the Torx T6, and they (screws) still look like new._

 

I used the one iBasso gave me. The allen key they gave me seemed to be extremely soft and it just kept spinning after using it on 5 screws.


----------



## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not a problem, get loctite the one that is meant to be unscrewed. I say so because loctite makes a formula that you can not unscrew._

 

Thanks, I'll try to look for some.


----------



## powertoold

iBasso gave you a driver? Why didn't I get one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Well, I woulda thrown it out anyway if it didn't fit perfectly hehe.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kamal007* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_lastly,
 will this work? 
DealExtreme: $1.97 Pozi-Driv T6 40mm Screwdriver for Electronics DIY
 or can anyone point me to a cheapo hex,torx or allen key that will open up the D2?_

 

Yes, that will work. I doubt they've switched their screws recently...


----------



## kamal007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, that will work. I doubt they've switched their screws recently..._

 

Thanks..ordered one.


----------



## circuithero

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_iBasso gave you a driver? Why didn't I get one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well, I woulda thrown it out anyway if it didn't fit perfectly hehe._

 

I was very anxious to get my new pcb in 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 but I should have waited for a proper key


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kamal007* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks..ordered one._

 

I ordered one also.If it doesn't work,I guess one could use it for an ice pick.LOL


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *breakfastchef* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This may not be the best place to make this comment, but I am real happy with the quality of the D1. I am also glad I did not move on the D2. It really puzzles me that iBasso did not better check the D2 out before releasing it, particularly the evil grounding issue. Thanks to all of you that were the 'sacrificial guinea pigs' on this experiment. I hope the long term burn ins show this amp to be a big time performer._

 

Not every D2 has the grounding issue. I have yet to hear any static or fuzz from my D2. Both the High gain model and normal version. Im pleased with my D2 now that I have the correct version. The only complaint is the volume knob is so slick its not hard to adjust, just not as easy as it could be..like the P2.


----------



## Ozric

Well, my D2 behaved perfectly fine until yesterday, which was a little over a week since I received it. It has suddenly developed a problem with what appears to be the on-off switch built into the volume pot. Now the amp makes loud, deafening noise in one channel just prior to switching off/on, especially if I wiggle the volume knob back and forth. 

 Am still awaiting an email response from ibasso about whether they will refund me my money (i'm leaving the country on a very extended period, and would prefer to resolve this by then). One would hope that if they price their product so competitively (the customs release form valued the D2 at $30), their "warranty" would also rival that of the competition.


----------



## greenzee

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not every D2 has the grounding issue. I have yet to hear any static or fuzz from my D2. Both the High gain model and normal version. Im pleased with my D2 now that I have the correct version. The only complaint is the volume knob is so slick its not hard to adjust, just not as easy as it could be..like the P2._

 

I agree about the volume knob. I am on the hunt for a tiny, but wide, rubber band to put on the knob.


----------



## greenzee

I must be nuts, because my hi gain unit sounds better overall than my lo gain. Lo gain is right out of the box, but I'm somewhat disappointed with how "underpowered" the lo gain feels. It is significantly less ballsy than any other amp I have, including GV6 and a Zero Audiocraft.

 I'd like to side by side A/B test these units. Anyone aware of an enclosure I could use to safely setup the alternate PCB?


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not every D2 has the grounding issue. I have yet to hear any static or fuzz from my D2. Both the High gain model and normal version. Im pleased with my D2 now that I have the correct version. The only complaint is the volume knob is so slick its not hard to adjust, just not as easy as it could be..like the P2._

 

Every D2 should have static issues when used on USB or power adapter if it isn't fixed (grinding the anodization inside the chassis). Maybe iBasso did this on some units (or maybe they will fix it for the future units) but when the rails of the chassis, which are supposed to hold the PCB and make a GND contact, are anodized then you have static. Maybe you won't hear it with every headphones but sensitive ones will definately show it. The static sound should be minimal or barely hearable. On the other hand there seems to be 2 (?) people here that have D2's with very loud static that also is there when listening to music.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ozric* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, my D2 behaved perfectly fine until yesterday, which was a little over a week since I received it. It has suddenly developed a problem with what appears to be the on-off switch built into the volume pot. Now the amp makes loud, deafening noise in one channel just prior to switching off/on, especially if I wiggle the volume knob back and forth. 

 Am still awaiting an email response from ibasso about whether they will refund me my money (i'm leaving the country on a very extended period, and would prefer to resolve this by then). One would hope that if they price their product so competitively (the customs release form valued the D2 at $30), their "warranty" would also rival that of the competition._

 

The value on the customs form doesn't mean anything. They probably didn't put it high so that there would be no / less export / import taxes.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Mine doesn't seem to have the ground problem.


----------



## ack_0220

i'm actually getting quite disappointed with iBasso, they told me that we should not use the amp while charging, having heard so many problems with you all, i don't even dare to use if often...feels like it will fail anytime......i didn't really get to listen to it properly yet, i hope the sound is enough to make up for it. I feel so like changing it for the P2 now......


----------



## MONVMENTVM

I use it most of the time with the power adapter plugged in.


----------



## ndskyz

I listened to and charged mine this morning. No hiss or fuzz.. It worked fine. I've been listening to it all day except for 1 hour at lunch, and havent heard anything out of the ordinary. 

 Painting with broad strokes will normally give you an ugly picture.


----------



## kodreaming

I am confused now after so many complaints about its quality.

 Should I go for it or should I wait a few more weeks until all problems are cleared by iBasso ?


----------



## breakfastchef

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kodreaming* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am confused now after so many complaints about its quality.

 Should I go for it or should I wait a few more weeks until all problems are cleared by iBasso ?_

 

If you are a 'first adopter', go for it. If you are like me, wait until the bugs are worked out. The D1 is a 'tight' device; the D2 exhibits problems for some and not others.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

I opened it and from what I could see it definately wasn't of a bad quality. This thing with hissing isn't a thing that really sets the quality down. I think they just tested the unit with an unpainted case and it worked. Now they painted them and the color (or anodization) simply doesn't allow connection of the case to the Ground of the PCB. It's not a real problem because it is easy to fix and I think that if you send it back they could fix it for you.

 So all in all I am really pleased with the D2.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_iBasso apparently made some "made to order" high gain version of the D2 for a customer. The Low gain version is the original version that the average customer was supposed to get. They sent some of the high gain version's out to a few of us here by mistake, and then sent replacement "low gain" versions PCB to replace the high gain._

 

Thanks. How do you tell the two versions apart?


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kodreaming* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am confused now after so many complaints about its quality.

 Should I go for it or should I wait a few more weeks until all problems are cleared by iBasso ?_

 

After 209 hrs burn in my D2 sounds excellent with my ALO 780's with Vampire cables.Almost as good as my Pico.IMO
 I never used the Dac yet.


----------



## kamal007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jaw007* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After 209 hrs burn in my D2 sounds excellent with my ALO 780's with Vampire cables.Almost as good as my Pico.IMO
 I never used the Dac yet.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

can you compare them both as an amp/dac?


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *kamal007* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can you compare them both as an amp/dac?_

 

I never used the Dac yet.I only used the amps with CD's.
 All I can say is they sound close as an amp only in SQ.
 It may be my ears only.I will eventually be able to compare the DAC's.
 But working out of town 12-16 hrs a day gives me little spare time.


----------



## CountChoculaBot

With my ALO 780's, I experienced *no* quality issues with the D2. I received a low gain version, plus when I play music w/ it plugged into the AC adapter, I don't hear any static at all unless I turn off the unit.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I haven't listened to my D2 in a couple of days I think, and I will be comparing it to my Predator and Pico again tomorrow at 11am with exactly 300 hours on it.

 Then I start rolling opamps depending on the results, which I will post here MINI-REVIEW of FOUR USB DAC amps - RSA Predator, Headamp Pico, iBasso D2, Headstage Lyrix - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio 

 The only thing that was hurting it last time I listened was a little bit too pronounced bass and a little bit less bass control than I wanted, when paired with ALO modded 780's. It sounded very similar to a Super Macro 3 with 11/07 update and AD797, which is a great Grado amp, so when I tried it with my RS-2 I found the D-2 does shine and strut it's stuff better with those. It just wasn't better than the Pico or Predator.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks. How do you tell the two versions apart?_

 

I havent been able to at a casual glance. I'll take a more detailed look at the two tonight.


----------



## ack_0220

I've tried the mod about the grinding the casing paint off, it works....the static is really gone. But unfortunately i still have the buzz during low gain and power plugged in. I'll run from battery from now on.


----------



## ack_0220

My D2 died this afternoon.......everything was working fine until this afternoon, after work, switch it on.....power light still on but no sound anymore. Tried everything, usb, analong, without charger, with charger.....its dead..
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 trying to contact iBasso.....i am having thoughts of changing it to the P2....any suggestion??


----------



## powertoold

How did you kill it?


----------



## MONVMENTVM

I think it died because it was defective from the beginning. I believe there was a part that wasn't right from the beginning on. Or maybe too much static that was killing something.


----------



## ack_0220

i didn't kill it, it killed itself........just turn it on one day and it was gone.....no sound whatsoever......i'm wodering if they will let me change to the P2 instead.....i tried the DAC on the D2 and i don't like it, anyone can tell if the D2 or the P2 is better?


----------



## MONVMENTVM

They have the same amp station, the D2 only has the additional DAC.

 Why exactly didn't you like the DAC?


----------



## ack_0220

With the DAC input.......it just doesn't sound right, sounds like it cannot scale properly.....everything just don't sound right when i turn it loud....but when i switch to the analog.....it sound so much better....everything is just better....bass, soundstange, focus......do you have the P2?? Have you heard it?


----------



## powertoold

Did you do the static scratching mod?


----------



## HiFlight

I have both the P2 and D2. With the same opamps, the sound is the same. My D2 DAC sounds superb. Better than my D1. I hear no audible differences between my D2 DAC and my Headroom Ultra Micro when feeding the D2.


----------



## HiFlight

D2 hopup kit now available: (2) LM6172 socketed opamps, plug and play. 
 PM for details.


----------



## meusickfrek

Got my Low gain unit and did the static mod even though I didn't hear much static. The paint was covering the ground connection area so I thought it would be a good idea, a metal nail filer worked perfectly. Fired up the new unit and didn't hear much of a difference, if anything it is a little warmer then the high gain unit. One internal difference is the pot, I noticed they were different, similar in size but one had numbers and the other didn't. while messing with the volume I noticed a little play in the new pot and it is easier to turn, the old one is kind of stiff. The new unit sounds great out of the box, i'm curious how the LM6172 opamps change the sound (HiFlight)? I'm happy with iBasso's C service and if the Viper dies after the warranty expires I have a replacement


----------



## jamato8

My D2 is sounding very good. I still have the stock opamps in use as I have been working 12 hour shifts and no time but to listen some. The amp section is very good and lifelike in my opinion. It is very clean and transparent. This is a nice addition to portable amps or dac/amps.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I just updated my review with my 310 hour results of the D2. Burn-in indeed was a good thing for the D2. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If I was on a budget of $200 or less, and needed a USB DAC amp then the D2 is simply a no-brainer - but it didn't really keep up with the big boys like a Pico and Predator (in the $500 neighborhood) till after 300 hours. My P2 burned-in twice as fast, before it burned up.

MINI-REVIEW of FOUR USB DAC amps - RSA Predator, Headamp Pico, iBasso D2, Headstage Lyrix


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_D2 hopup kit now available: (2) LM6172 socketed opamps, plug and play. 
 PM for details._

 

Now that I am done burning in the D2 I am going to roll in the two 6172 Friday/Saturday. I will also try the ISL50002 and THS4032. Stay tuned...

 I just have to remember if I have both 6172 yet, I know I have one of them...


----------



## ack_0220

jamato, you were saying that iBasso are selling a different internal clock? do they sell any other opamps as well? I've sent mine back, might as well ask them to ship those to me together with the new D2 next trip.


----------



## StevieDvd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ack_0220* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_jamato, you were saying that iBasso are selling a different internal clock? do they sell any other opamps as well? I've sent mine back, might as well ask them to ship those to me together with the new D2 next trip._

 

I think you'll find he means the IC as Interconnect, since that's what I saw on their web site when I ordered my D2
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 not sure about opamps though. For my D1 I got great service from forum member Hi-Flight so unless I can source some UK opamps then I'll be trying the kit (kits?) he's supplying.

 Not had more than a few hours use of my D2 so far but it won't be a candidate for mobile use with my ACS T2 iems, the pop at turn on/off is a killer with custom iem and the volume too high just after the on position. Had thought I'd got a high gain unit but when I tried it with Senn PX200 at work the volume range is much more acceptable.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *StevieDvd* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think you'll find he means the IC as Interconnect, since that's what I saw on their web site when I ordered my D2
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 not sure about opamps though. For my D1 I got great service from forum member Hi-Flight so unless I can source some UK opamps then I'll be trying the kit (kits?) he's supplying.

 Not had more than a few hours use of my D2 so far but it won't be a candidate for mobile use with my ACS T2 iems, the pop at turn on/off is a killer with custom iem and the volume too high just after the on position. Had thought I'd got a high gain unit but when I tried it with Senn PX200 at work the volume range is much more acceptable._

 

The pop at turn on is only on high gain mode, which for IEMs is obsolete anyway. You should use the low gain mode for IEMs. You will also have a better volume control. I am using low gain mode on Grados and my volume is at 10 o'clock in DAC mode which is loud enough. So there is definately no need to turn on the high gain mode if you don't have demanding phones with high impedance.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meusickfrek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Got my Low gain unit and did the static mod even though I didn't hear much static. The paint was covering the ground connection area so I thought it would be a good idea, a metal nail filer worked perfectly. Fired up the new unit and didn't hear much of a difference, if anything it is a little warmer then the high gain unit. One internal difference is the pot, I noticed they were different, similar in size but one had numbers and the other didn't. while messing with the volume I noticed a little play in the new pot and it is easier to turn, the old one is kind of stiff. The new unit sounds great out of the box, i'm curious how the LM6172 opamps change the sound (HiFlight)? I'm happy with iBasso's C service and if the Viper dies after the warranty expires I have a replacement
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think you may be right. The only difference I see between the low and high gain version is the Vol pot. The low gain has "A10K" on it, and the high gain has "B50K"

 I still find the high gain version not to my liking. It drives my cans easier but it certainly doesnt sound better. I dunno. Has anyone heard from iBasso on when we are supposed to send these High gain versions back??


----------



## powertoold

I thought you were supposed to send it back when you got the low gain version, and they would refund you the shipping.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I thought you were supposed to send it back when you got the low gain version, and they would refund you the shipping._

 

Thought so too..but it sounds like some people plan on keepin both...at least for a while


----------



## powertoold

I dunno. I'd send it back 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 They made a mistake and came to a decent resolution.


----------



## meusickfrek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think you may be right. The only difference I see between the low and high gain version is the Vol pot. The low gain has "A10K" on it, and the high gain has "B50K"

 I still find the high gain version not to my liking. It drives my cans easier but it certainly doesnt sound better. I dunno. Has anyone heard from iBasso on when we are supposed to send these High gain versions back??_

 

I also noticed that the volume increases evenly throughout it's range. It has enough juice to drive the HD580s, but the high gain version was definitely louder. After I get used to the low gain V I will go back to the high gain V to see if I notice a difference.

 edit: They did not ask me to send mine back.


----------



## jamato8

I made a statement about the interconnect that iBasso sells. I need to clear up what I said. It does sound good with the highs and mids presenting well but the lowest bass, unless mine needs more burn-in (it has a few hundred hours) does not come through very well.


----------



## StevieDvd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The pop at turn on is only on high gain mode, which for IEMs is obsolete anyway. You should use the low gain mode for IEMs. You will also have a better volume control. I am using low gain mode on Grados and my volume is at 10 o'clock in DAC mode which is loud enough. So there is definately no need to turn on the high gain mode if you don't have demanding phones with high impedance._

 

I do use the low gain setting and the 10 o'clock with my iems is too loud, 9.30 is about my max. Yes the pop is a killer on high gain but still slightly wounding on low setting
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think my T2s are 27ohm so way easy to drive.


----------



## powertoold

The popping problem is easily solved if you just keep your amp on all day


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Interestingly enough I only have the popping in high gain mode. I can also hear it when turning the amp off, but it is not really a popping sound but more of a bass at a very low volume.


----------



## saltire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *meusickfrek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also noticed that the volume increases evenly throughout it's range. It has enough juice to drive the HD580s, but the high gain version was definitely louder. After I get used to the low gain V I will go back to the high gain V to see if I notice a difference.

 edit: They did not ask me to send mine back._

 

I swapped out the hi-gain PCB to the low gain PCB. The gain change is very noticeable with HD650's. I'm running the gain switch on max and at max volume, and I feel it's just a little under powered.


----------



## jamato8

What is the voltage output of your source? I just tried the amp with my 650's and in high gain (I have the normal gain board) and maximum volume I would go deaf after a while. Way too loud for me. This is using the USB input from my Mac.


----------



## saltire

I'm using a Mac Mini (USB). I don't think my ears are bad! I could try another computer to see if there is something different with the Mac Mini. The volume was more than adequate (too loud) with the high gain board.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Damn I just wanted to listen to some music right now and I turned on the amp and heard that loud popping in the left channel. It's quite loud, louder than the popping sound I get when switching to high gain mode. It's quite annoying. What should I do?


----------



## powertoold

I think many amps have a pop when you turn them on, so basically, turn it on first before you put your headphones on. Then, just leave your amp on, plugged in. 

 It seems a bit nitpicky to me to complain about something that is easily resolved. I wasn't expecting perfection for $200


----------



## MONVMENTVM

But it is piercingly loud and it didn't do this before, that's what is making me sceptical about it.

 Btw. I also have this popping when I'm turning the pot near to the position where it turns off. It leads me to believe that it is just the pot itself making this. I think they should have used a separate switch for turning it on and off.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *saltire* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I swapped out the hi-gain PCB to the low gain PCB. The gain change is very noticeable with HD650's. I'm running the gain switch on max and at max volume, and I feel it's just a little under powered._

 

It certainly is louder, I notice it drives my K701's easier than the low gain model...it just doesnt sound as good doing it, And it starts clipping once you get to the 1 oclock position, I'd rather have an under powered clean amp than a hyped up one that clips.


----------



## powertoold

I love the D2. Now I'm using double AD8599, and it charges quickly and predictably (for some reason with other opamps, this doesn't happen). Anyway, I love the D2. Oh my, it makes my music so much bigger and spacious. The DAC is great. My Audigy 2ZS is too bright with it's CS4392 or whatever. Plus, the D2 is so cute. It's like perfect fit for my Nano. Gah. 

 If you plan to use IEMs with the D2, get a AD8599. Once you go 8599, there's no turning back!


----------



## kamal007

we really should contact ibasso back and get our money back. including the shipping since its not cheap


----------



## TSi

For opamp rolling, which parts do i "rip out" its becuase i know there is one with the DIP socket, but then I do not see another one.


----------



## Ozric

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But it is piercingly loud and it didn't do this before, that's what is making me sceptical about it.

 Btw. I also have this popping when I'm turning the pot near to the position where it turns off. It leads me to believe that it is just the pot itself making this. I think they should have used a separate switch for turning it on and off._

 

I agree about having a separate switch. My D2 developed this exact same issue after 10 days of use. The noise is deafeningly loud. I'm shipping my amp back to ibasso monday; they said they'd give me a full refund. I've ordered a Go-Vibe Petite to replace the D2.


----------



## kamal007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ozric* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I agree about having a separate switch. My D2 developed this exact same issue after 10 days of use. The noise is deafeningly loud. I'm shipping my amp back to ibasso monday; they said they'd give me a full refund. I've ordered a Go-Vibe Petite to replace the D2._

 

will the refund includes shipping?


----------



## powertoold

Wow, the AD8599 also sounds amazing with my HD580s... if you have some around, try it out!

 * I'm also having that loud scratchy noise when I slowly turn my pot close to off. The solution is to turn it off with a single fast turn instead of slowly. Luckily, I don't turn my D2 off often.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_D2 hopup kit now available: (2) LM6172 socketed opamps, plug and play. 
 PM for details._

 

Does it matter if one of my LM6172 is a DIP and the other is an SOIC on a browndog? Which would you use in while socket?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

The solution to amps that pop when turned on or gain is changes is to do it with the headphones unplugged. It's not a big deal for me, and my D1 was popping just like the D2.


----------



## Rickio

I guess the D2 was rushed out and it shouldn't have problems so easily but I also think the burn in some were doing burned the D2's out hehehe

 I burn it in also but not 24/7, more like 12 hours on and 12 off. I just don't feel good leaving things on unattended so I guess I am paranoid hehehe But my D2 is running great and finally sounding real good. It does have those pops but I don't consider it a problem. I unplug the headphone and turn it off or on. I never hear a pop. Hmm simple solution....

 I left the headphones in a few times to listen for the pops and it does not seem loud to me. I have a feeling the ones that click loud are a hint that its gonna break down.


----------



## Sieg9198

At first the D1's HUGE poping sound is very annoying to me too, I hate unplugging the headphone everytime when I want turn it off. Luckily I found out that the AC power adapter is causing the pop sound
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 So now I turn off the the AC power adapter first before I turn off the D1 itself, I get almost no pop sound with this.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

I didn't mind that (before my mod) I had some static when the amp was turned off and both USB and power was plugged in. First off it didn't hurt in my ears and it went away as soon as I turned it on. But this loud popping/scratching is driving me crazy. 
 When someone is talking to me and I want to turn the amp to min. volume to hear the one speaking, I get shocked everytime because of it being so annoying and loud.

 Maybe I'll do a mod where I replace the pot to a simple one (without on/off function) and take the Gain switch and recable it so that it works as a On/Off switch, because I won't need the Gain switch that much anyway. Inside of the case I'll mount a small Gain switch for the times if I need more power.

 Just have too look for alternative pots which fit on the PCB, the rest should be easy.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

OK just looked at the ALPS homepage and already found the type of pot that is used in the D2 (though I don't know if the one in the D2 is an ALPS... mine is blue while on the ALPS homepage it is black). 
 You can see it here:
RK097/RK098 Seriesï½œBasic information

 There are many different types. For example this would be the right one without a switch:
RK097/RK098 Seriesï½œBasic information

 Or some with push switch... here is the whole list of them which should fit. You can even get them with different resistance taper:
RK097/RK098 Seriesï½œProducts Line


----------



## powertoold

I don't think the popping problem is because of D2's circuit design. Rather, the pot isn't great.

 ** That scratching sound would be deafening with IEMs lol. Better watch out! Well, I had my FreQs in when it happened a few times


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, the AD8599 also sounds amazing with my HD580s... if you have some around, try it out!..._

 


 I am using an AD8599 in my P2 (same amp section as the D2) and I like the way it sounds. I will start rolling on the D2 when it reaches 400 hours of burn in, it is at 200 so I have to wait for another 8 days.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

OK I planned a bit around and in the meantime I also managed to ask iBasso from what company these pots are. If they're from ALPS (what I don't believe) than it would make no sense to buy and replace them with the same RK0971221Z05 pots as it is likely that they will start scratching after some days again... though I don't believe that they also would. 
 Anyway in this case I would buy a RK09712200MY which in fact is the same pot but without the switching capability. Because of this they are also about 6mm shorter than the ones with switching but they would fit perfectly nonetheless. But because of the fact of being shorter I have access to the contacts for switching the amp on and off. That way I can easily access the contacts. All I have to do is to unsolder the gain switch and resolder it with 2 short cables that connect to where the pot was before. That way I would have a separated on/off switch and potentiometer working flawlessly.

 For the gain switch I would take something like this:
http://img-europe.electrocomponents....R339673-01.jpg
 ...and place it somewhere inside of the amp as there is still plenty of room. For example above the input/output connectors. If someday I'd have too much time, I could even drill a hole on the backplate somewhere so that the Gainswitch remains accessable from the outside. But I don't need the gain switch much anyway.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For opamp rolling, which parts do i "rip out" its becuase i know there is one with the DIP socket, but then I do not see another one._

 

can neone help me?
 btw, will any 8 leg opamp work for rolling? or is there specific types i need to look for?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can neone help me?
 btw, will any 8 leg opamp work for rolling? or is there specific types i need to look for?_

 

Check the opamps data sheet to see if the voltage requirements are appropriate. Try to use opamps that will tolerate at least 10 volts. Low noise is good, As a rule, better square-wave response usually results in better audio quality.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can neone help me?
 btw, will any 8 leg opamp work for rolling? or is there specific types i need to look for?_

 

You can't use just any opamp. There are parameters. Many have been mentioned in the previous pages. Some reading of those suggestions may be of value.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does it matter if one of my LM6172 is a DIP and the other is an SOIC on a browndog? Which would you use in while socket?_

 


 It doesn't matter at all. Either one will work in either socket. The DIP will fit better next to the battery though.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Here are my notes I took as I rolled opamps in my D2 and listened:

*1)* I am first listening to the ISL55002 in main (replaced the 1364) and and THS4032 in the second spot (replaced NE5532). This is really nice with the ALO modded 780's (in same room as sleeping wife, so no open phones).

 It is not what I expected, but rather with strong bass, smooth highs that are less accentuated than stock when teamed with the 780, and it's very transparent. Pianos and snares are crisp and attack and decay is good. Drums sound good, and bass guitar is tight. Saxophone are nice but maybe a liittle of the warmth is missing on those. Diana Krall's voice in "Temptation" does not have sibilance, and that is my test track for sssssibilance. I have no trouble hearing the knocking artifacts from the piano in "Departure Bay", from pedals and such. Next, the 6172 x 2.

*2)* Immediately I hear the sound is more forward with the LM6172 x 2, and some of the background is pushed out of the way to make the singer come forward. It is a more intimate warm mellow sound, reminiscent of the first time I heard the Meier Headsix.

 The sound of the piano pedals is more of a booming low frequency background noise, makes me want to look up an look for where it coming from. Saxaphones seem to be lacking a little bit of the reedyness, but they are warmer.

 Playback volume seems lower too. YIKES!!! I just flipped to high gain since the volume was low, and lost the left channel! And it's not the headphones or macbook. This is gonna suck - unplugging it and turning it off didn't bring the left channel back, and all I did was flip the gain switch just now.

 Arghhhh!!!

*3)* Can't believe I am continuing this after my scare. Turning off, unplugging, and removing and replacing the the opamps with stock ones got me both channels back. It sounded good enough that I almost quit right there. But, I wouldn't be a HeadphoneAddict if I didn't keep going.

 I think that one LM6172 (soic on browndog) plus stock NE5532 offers more volume than two 6172, and offers a less closed in sound, while still being a little intimate. This still tames the treble for me. 

 I immediately swapped the 1364 back in, and I moved back from 1st row to 3rd row, with a slight jump in highs and less warmth. The two 6172 has me ON the stage, but I like one LM6172 + NE5532 better than two 6172.

 Leaving the NE5532 I then swapped in the THS4032 in the main, and the intimacy dropped more, and the venue opened up without boosting the treble much.

 Then the ISL55002 went in, and the treble came back up, soundstage remained wide open and not forward, and it reminded me of the 1364.

 The 6172 went back in, and I still liked it more (although all of them sound good). Next I will try replacing the NE5532.

*4)* I put the DIP 6172 back in place of NE5532, while the SOIC/browndog 6172 was still in main, and left channel is gone again.

 I put NE5532 back in and I have both channels. 

 So, I swapped the DIP version to the main, and moved the SOIC/browndog to the second IC = same missing lt channel. Then I pulled the SOIC from the secondary IC, put the NE5532 back in, both channels are back.

 So, either 6172 works in main, but I can't use both or I lose left channel. Wierd.

 So, I kept the DIP 6172 in LR, and pulled the NE5532 to install the THS4032. WOW! This combo works for me better than ISL55002 as the main opamp with the THS4032, which is more distant in the mids. But, the bass kinda big when using these HFI-780, but tolerable (any more bass and I'd be worried). With this cpmbo, the saxophone regains that magic, with a combination of BOTH warmth and reedyness. LIVE NIGHT CLUB JAZZ MUSIC SOUNDS LIVE. I am having difficulty changing this or stopping the music. "Help, I'm listening to music and I can't get up"!

 You have to try the LM6172 in place of the 1364 and the THS4032 in place of the NE5532. I am leaving this alone for now. And still listening. Can't... pull... myself... away...

*5)* Then the D2 battery ran out. So, I set it aside to charge, and started playing with my 3G nano and Headsix, changing it to low gain for my livewires. Another Wow. I am still listening to that setup 2 hours later!


----------



## mrarroyo

HeadphoneAddict, please post some pictures so newbies like me can learn on which position you put the op-amps in. Thanks.


----------



## powertoold

Hey Headphone,

 I didn't think the ISL55002 was that great either. The sound didn't feel natural. I didn't read your whole thing on the 6172, but maybe your BrownDog had a loose leg. The left channel thing happened to me too once; I'm not sure what I did. 

 Mrarroyo, almost all DIP opamps have a notch on one side (horizontally) that looks like a half-circle. On the circuit board, there is also a half-circle diagram. If you match up the two half-circles when you install the opamp, it should be fine. If you don't see the half-circle on your opamp, then line up the opamp to the socket in such a way that you can read the opamp normally (ie. left to right) when the half-circle on the circuit board is on your left.

 Here is a picture (the BrownDog is also self-explanatory):


----------



## jamato8

I really like the drawings. Can you please use stick figures to show how they are changed? :^)


----------



## souperman

I'm glad to see that opamp rolling has come to fruition!


----------



## sonicm

At the iBasso site it says that the D2's are all sold out, and the product page disappeared. Does this mean that the D2's were only made in a limited quantity, or are they going to get more in stock soon?


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sonicm* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_At the iBasso site it says that the D2's are all sold out, and the product page disappeared. Does this mean that the D2's were only made in a limited quantity, or are they going to get more in stock soon?_

 

They did the same thing with the P2 early this year. It just means that they are out of cases or PCB's or both. From all that I've read they are going to be making more D2's just not DIP version's.


----------



## jamato8

I asked them this. They are getting in more cases. If more dip versions are going to be made I don't know. They said originally 100 would be made and then they would switch to the non dip version which is about the same size as the Predator or Pico.


----------



## jamato8

I put the 1364 back in the L/R and still like the 1364. I find it open, transparent and just plain enjoy the music. I found the same thing to be true on the P2. The 4032 is in the dip for the dac.


----------



## sonicm

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They did the same thing with the P2 early this year. It just means that they are out of cases or PCB's or both. From all that I've read they are going to be making more D2's just not DIP version's._

 

Excuse my lack of information, but what is the DIP version?


----------



## CountChoculaBot

The DIP version is what the first 100 and apparently only the first 100 units of D2's are. These have a DIP socket for replacing an OpAmp in the unit. If you don't know what a DIP Socket is, all it is is an easy way to replace an OpAmp; in lieu of soldering, all you do is pull out the old OpAmp, put in the new, nice and easy.


----------



## dap_pad

"Socketed" Version, meaning users like us will be able to customize the sound using their own opamps.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_You can't use just any opamp. There are parameters. Many have been mentioned in the previous pages. Some reading of those suggestions may be of value._

 

hmm... ive actually read most of the pages, but then im not sure about most of the stuff (considering this may be my 1st time)


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmm... ive actually read most of the pages, but then im not sure about most of the stuff (considering this may be my 1st time)_

 

I know, it can be overwhelming. A condensed section on the opamps and preferences would be of big help to everyone.


----------



## HiFlight

post deleted


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I like the more forward/warmer/less bright LM6172 in the main socket where the 1364 was (by the line and headphone jacks), and the THS4032 replacing the NE5532 by the power jack. 

 I still have to try the 1364 in main with THS4032 in the secondary socket. What have others heard with that combination?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like the more forward/warmer/less bright LM6172 in the main socket where the 1364 was (by the line and headphone jacks), and the THS4032 replacing the NE5532 by the power jack. 

 I still have to try the 1364 in main with THS4032 in the secondary socket. What have others heard with that combination?_

 

That is what I am using, the 1364 in the L/R and the 4032 in the rear socket. I am getting decent width and depth and pleasing sound and very nice bass.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

I was just thinking about capacitor replacement in the D2. The Elna Silmics are nice but there are 4x 47uF and 2x 22uF and their values seem a bit low to me.

 Do you think it would work with e.g. Panasonic FM 330uF instead of the 22uF and 470uF instead of the 47uF? I mean it should work but the differences are so high, that it makes me sceptical.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was just thinking about capacitor replacement in the D2. The Elna Silmics are nice but there are 4x 47uF and 2x 22uF and their values seem a bit low to me.

 Do you think it would work with e.g. Panasonic FM 330uF instead of the 22uF and 470uF instead of the 47uF? I mean it should work but the differences are so high, that it makes me sceptical._

 

Is the voltage correct and will they physically fit?


----------



## Downer

Got mine yesterday and after 10 hours of burn in, the analog thru rockboxed iPod sounds really good better than Move imo. Yet the DAC does not sound right and lacks many aspects that I like. Maybe, it will improve with burn in...


----------



## jamato8

I have read several accounts of the dac not sounding right. I am not sure what is going on as mine sounds fine. What is being heard that is not right?


----------



## Downer

Well, I did not mean there is something wrong with the DAC. I am trying to say is DAC doesn't sound as good as the analog input. Is there a chance that will improve with the burn-in ???


----------



## jamato8

I find the dac at first to be bright but improves after use. I found this to be true with the D1 as well though I still prefer the D2 USB to the D1 USB. For comparisons I have the Predator, which is a very fine USB dac and amp.

 In general at this point I like the amps on the Predator, D1 and D2 a little more than using the USB but this is using the output from my Monica II dac from lossless on my iRiver with optical output to the Monica. Some really like USB and I think I need to explore some areas more. On some music the USB sounds great on some I find it a bit etched and slightly bright.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

I also like the sound with DAC more than the analog input.

 @jamato8:

 Yes they'll fit. The bigger (8mm diameter) caps (47uF) could be replaced by some 10mm diameter 470uF caps (they have the same height of course). They would fit for sure. For the 6mm 22uF I would take some 8mm 330uF of the same height which should also fit because there is plenty of room.

 Of course I could also take some of the same diameter. Then I would take these 330uF instead of the 47uF and instead of the 6mm 22uF I'd take some 6mm 120uF. It would have more capacity anyway.


----------



## jamato8

Are the caps you want to use the low esr type?


----------



## ndskyz

I found the DAC a lil harsh but it has gotten better now that my low gain has about 40 hours on it. Listening to it now with my new Proline 750's (Thanks for the recomendation Jamato) It's sounding pretty good.


----------



## HiFlight

In response to requests, a D2/P2 "Top Kit" including (2) LM6172, (1) THS4032 and (1) ISL55002IB is now available. This will allow mix and match to your own preferences with 3 excellent sounding opamps. The 3 different opamps allow for 7 different combinations, each of which makes subtle changes to the soundstage and imaging. 

 It is hard to imagine that one of these seven combos would not be an ideal fit for ones personal tastes and music preferences. 

 For details, PM or email me.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Yes I could take for example Panasonic FC, FM or Nichicon VR or SR, or some Rubycon ZL or ZLH which have low ESR. I don't know exactly which one to take though ^^.

 I think I will also take some Polypropylene instead of the Polyester caps.

 For the opamps I'll get some LM6172, AD8599 and maybe some more, so I can test around ^^.

 As a pot I'll get one of these RK97 ALPS.

 I'm interested how the already well sounding D2 will sound after these upgrades ^^.


----------



## jamato8

Yep, I don't like polyester, ech. anyway the Panasonic FC are pretty good. A nice low esr and general quality for a electrolytic.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

But am I right that the Panasonic FM are better? At least they have an even lower ESR.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

meh... somehow I have this feeling that I have to get these OPA627 to try out on the D2. Do you think that they'll play fine together in both sockets or should I use one socket with the OPA627 and try another opamp in the other socket?

 Fitting both sockets with OPA627's would be quite pricey, as I would need 4 of them and 2 browndogs. I would get them still quite cheap in relation. For 4 of these opamps and both browndogs and shipping I'd have to pay a bit less than 90$. It's a good price but all in all it is quite some money just to roll some amps. But on the other side I am almost possessed to give 'em a try 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.

 Including the other mods I would like to try - swapping the caps for larger capacity Panasonic FM or Rubycon ZL; swapping the polyester caps with polypropylene ones and exchanging the pot with an ALPS one - I think that I could create a beast of a portable amp, while still being cheaper than a Pico or Predator.

 Does anyone have an AD8610/AD8620 to try in a D2?


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But am I right that the Panasonic FM are better? At least they have an even lower ESR._

 

Maybe, I don't have any real experience with them, just the FC. Caps have come a long ways over the past few years. Are they the same size?


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_meh... somehow I have this feeling that I have to get these OPA627 to try out on the D2. Do you think that they'll play fine together in both sockets or should I use one socket with the OPA627 and try another opamp in the other socket?

 Fitting both sockets with OPA627's would be quite pricey, as I would need 4 of them and 2 browndogs. I would get them still quite cheap in relation. For 4 of these opamps and both browndogs and shipping I'd have to pay a bit less than 90$. It's a good price but all in all it is quite some money just to roll some amps. But on the other side I am almost possessed to give 'em a try 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 Including the other mods I would like to try - swapping the caps for larger capacity Panasonic FM or Rubycon ZL; swapping the polyester caps with polypropylene ones and exchanging the pot with an ALPS one - I think that I could create a beast of a portable amp, while still being cheaper than a Pico or Predator.

 Does anyone have an AD8610/AD8620 to try in a D2?_

 


 I think you will get about the same sound for a lot less money with LM6172 in IC-2 and ISL55002 in IC7. JMHO. BTW, I have tried the AD8620 in my D2. Sounds OK, but not at the top of the list to my ears.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think you will get about the same sound for a lot less money with LM6172 in IC-2 and ISL55002 in IC7. JMHO. BTW, I have tried the AD8620 in my D2. Sounds OK, but not at the top of the list to my ears._

 

Ah Ok, thx for the info.

 What's the main characterstics of the ISL55002?

 I'm still thinking about getting these OPA627. There seems to be a lot of people thinking that this is _the_ opamp for audio purposes, but I didn't hear it until now, so I don't know if it is worth the money.


----------



## powertoold

OPA627 are expensive.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Yep, they are. But still I pulled the trigger and bought them. If I don't like them or if the LM6172 combo really comes close, I can sell the OPA627's again.


----------



## HiFlight

The ISL55002 is has a high slew rate, a very neutral sound thru the audio frequency range, has excellent square-wave response, and outputs about 3 times the current of the OPA627. It also has a very wide voltage swing, giving it good dynamics. 

 I find it works very well in the ground channel. (IC-7) It works particularly well with phones that are not overly bright. It has lots of presence and a very nice soundstage and does very well with vocals and classical. It continues to sound very nice at even low listening levels. 

 Hope this helps...





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah Ok, thx for the info.

 What's the main characterstics of the ISL55002?

 I'm still thinking about getting these OPA627. There seems to be a lot of people thinking that this is _the_ opamp for audio purposes, but I didn't hear it until now, so I don't know if it is worth the money._


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The ISL55002 is has a high slew rate, a very neutral sound thru the audio frequency range, has excellent square-wave response, and outputs about 3 times the current of the OPA627. It also has a very wide voltage swing, giving it good dynamics. 

 I find it works very well in the ground channel. (IC-7) It works particularly well with phones that are not overly bright. It has lots of presence and a very nice soundstage and does very well with vocals and classical. It continues to sound very nice at even low listening levels. 

 Hope this helps..._

 

Ok, I am confused, yes I know, nothing new. But are you using the 55002 in the ground channel or in the L/R channel? I thought the 4032 was in the ground and the 55002 was in the L/R.


----------



## powertoold

Last time I asked HiFlight, he said he used the 55002 in place of the stock 1364, so that's what I did and didn't like it much 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyone know of a really bass light opamp?


----------



## lihao

anyone know if this amp is better than move2?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lihao* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_anyone know if this amp is better than move2?_

 

I will let you know within a week - I have a loaner 2MOVE on the way for review, to add to my mini-review of DAC/Amp's: MINI-REVIEW of FOUR USB DAC amps - RSA Predator, Headamp Pico, iBasso D2, Headstage Lyrix - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio

 Welcome to head-fi, and sorry about your wallet


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ok, I am confused, yes I know, nothing new. But are you using the 55002 in the ground channel or in the L/R channel? I thought the 4032 was in the ground and the 55002 was in the L/R._

 

After I pointed out the 6172 in LR and 4032 in the second socket, HiFlight tried it and loved it. But, neither of us had tried the 55002 in place of the 4032, so he tried it and liked it.

 I didn't like the 55002+4032 as much, nor the 6172+6172, but wonder about flipping mine the other way around with the 4032 in main with 6172 in the second one.

 Then there is the 4032 in main with 55002 in the ground channel. I don't know if either of us has tried that one.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In response to requests, a D2/P2 "Top Kit" including (2) LM6172, (1) THS4032 and (1) ISL55002IB is now available. This will allow mix and match to your own preferences with 3 excellent sounding opamps. The 3 different opamps allow for 7 different combinations, each of which makes subtle changes to the soundstage and imaging. 

 It is hard to imagine that one of these seven combos would not be an ideal fit for ones personal tastes and music preferences. 

 For details, PM or email me._

 

Math sucks - how many combinations is that when you count the stock opamps with those 4 additional ones? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Okay, maybe we can forget about the NE5532P.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Math sucks - how many combinations is that when you count the stock opamps with those 4 additional ones? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Okay, maybe we can forget about the NE5532P._

 

4 of those opamps + 2 stock ones... thats a total of 6.
 so im guessing there should be 21 choices (assuming each opamp can go in each socket and they can each produce different sounds)


----------



## MetalGeek

I hope I'm not threadjacking too much, but I'm a bit concerned. After reading some of the latest posts I'm almost afraid that I may have made a mistake by going for the D2-Viper as my first amp, which should hopefully arrive later this week. Is practically everybody having issues with it? From what I've read, so far there's been static due to the AC adapter, the board not being properly grounded to the case, and now the pot is bad? 

 I'm a mechanical engineering student with *some* experience in circuits and soldering (plus I have a few friends who are electrical engineering majors with tons of soldering experience), so I'm not too afraid to do some minor modifications. But I almost feel like I'm in a bit too deep for my first amp. Are my fears "ungrounded"? (Really bad pun, unfortunately, intended.)


----------



## powertoold

Haha, I forgot my statistics, but I guess you should have 16 different combinations of the opamps, given that you have 2 of each (6172, 55002, 4032, 1364).


----------



## MONVMENTVM

@Metalgeek: The problem with the static can be eliminated by grinding of the anodization in the case what connects to the board.

 I just got a mail from iBasso:

 Hello,
 Thank you for your email.
 The D2 knob does have the "pop" sound problem when turn on and turn of, and this problem exist on all the D2. I am not sure is this the scratching sound you mentioned.
 Acoording to our knob supplier, this knob is from TaiWan. We dont have the ALPS knob, but we did order some ALPHS knobs which has the same quality as the ALPS. The order period is 1.5 months, we have not received it yet. Our engineer said the pop sound problem cant be solved by using a higher quality knob. To eliminate the pop sound problem, we need another circuit design.
 If you have any further questions, please dont hesitate to contact us.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio

 Btw. I think he means ALPHA not ALPHS! And I think he refers to the pop sound you get when the amp is in high gain mode and you turn on the amp. What I meant though is this scratching sound when you turn off the amp or when you turn the volum down until the pot position is next to the point where it turns off.


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MetalGeek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I hope I'm not threadjacking too much, but I'm a bit concerned. After reading some of the latest posts I'm almost afraid that I may have made a mistake by going for the D2-Viper as my first amp, which should hopefully arrive later this week. Is practically everybody having issues with it? From what I've read, so far there's been static due to the AC adapter, the board not being properly grounded to the case, and now the pot is bad? 

 I'm a mechanical engineering student with *some* experience in circuits and soldering (plus I have a few friends who are electrical engineering majors with tons of soldering experience), so I'm not too afraid to do some minor modifications. But I almost feel like I'm in a bit too deep for my first amp. Are my fears "ungrounded"? (Really bad pun, unfortunately, intended.)_

 

Valid concerns, and not thread jacking. I have NONE of the problems others have mentioned here. (I did get the high gain but now have the "regular" model) Having said that Im not discounting anyone elses problems or experience. I also dont listen with (cant stand) IEM's so their sensitvity might bring out some of the problems listed. AT Any rate, the D2 isnt a very complicated PCB, I used to do Circuit level repair of Motorola PCB's for a living (raidos and pagers) Through hole and SMT repair. So take that FWIW. I think the problems listed with the D2 are unfortunate, and not very difficult to repair. If need be. You might be like me, and not have any problems at all.


----------



## onlychild

Plus for $200 you get a great amp and DAC, it is very hard to beat for a first amp. And, iBasso's customer service is very good, not to mention you can customize the sound by rolling the opamps.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I also like the sound with DAC more than the analog input.

 @jamato8:

 Yes they'll fit. The bigger (8mm diameter) caps (47uF) could be replaced by some 10mm diameter 470uF caps (they have the same height of course). They would fit for sure. For the 6mm 22uF I would take some 8mm 330uF of the same height which should also fit because there is plenty of room.

 Of course I could also take some of the same diameter. Then I would take these 330uF instead of the 47uF and instead of the 6mm 22uF I'd take some 6mm 120uF. It would have more capacity anyway._

 


 I emailed iBasso because I haven't traced the circuit board and don't know the function of each of the caps mentioned. They said changing the 47uf to 470uf is fine but the 22uf should be left as is.


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Valid concerns, and not thread jacking. I have NONE of the problems others have mentioned here. (I did get the high gain but now have the "regular" model) Having said that Im not discounting anyone elses problems or experience. I also dont listen with (cant stand) IEM's so their sensitvity might bring out some of the problems listed. AT Any rate, the D2 isnt a very complicated PCB, I used to do Circuit level repair of Motorola PCB's for a living (raidos and pagers) Through hole and SMT repair. So take that FWIW. I think the problems listed with the D2 are unfortunate, and not very difficult to repair. If need be. You might be like me, and not have any problems at all._

 

I have only the pop sound when turning the amp on.and no static whatever.
 Lucky I guess.


----------



## jamato8

No static and only a very mild sound when turning the unit on. The gain switch is another story and it appears iBasso is working on that. I only use the low gain as it provides more than enough volume with any phones I own.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Thanks jamato8 for the info about the caps.

 I ordered some Rubycon ZLH and some Panasonic AM (because they were in the category Audio Caps and quite cheap). If they aren't good, the Rubycon will do the job fine for sure.

 Did iBasso tell you what the 22uF caps are for?


----------



## ndskyz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No static and only a very mild sound when turning the unit on. The gain switch is another story and it appears iBasso is working on that. I only use the low gain as it provides more than enough volume with any phones I own._

 

Yeah I think they all have that. I was reffering to the static (grounding mod), and the fuzz from the volume pot. I use low gain unless I get the 701's out. And If I do I flip the switch BEFORE i plug the phones in. That pop is pretty bad.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yeah I think they all have that. I was reffering to the static (grounding mod), and the fuzz from the volume pot. I use low gain unless I get the 701's out. And If I do I flip the switch BEFORE i plug the phones in. That pop is pretty bad._

 

Yeah, the pop is nasty but they said they are fixing it.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks jamato8 for the info about the caps.

 I ordered some Rubycon ZLH and some Panasonic AM (because they were in the category Audio Caps and quite cheap). If they aren't good, the Rubycon will do the job fine for sure.

 Did iBasso tell you what the 22uF caps are for?_

 

I need to pick up some various caps. Where did you order yours?


----------



## MONVMENTVM

I looked at rs-components, at distrelec and at farnell. The latter seems to have the most types.


----------



## MetalGeek

I just got mine about a half hour ago. 

 This thing is incredible! Being my first amp, I really have nothing to compare it to, but it just sounds soooo gooooooood with my HD595's! 

 I'll certainly be breaking it in over the course of the next few days. Ohh man, this is going to be awesome...


----------



## mrarroyo

I hear a pop only when I go from low gain to high gain. Otherwise I have a quiet amp.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Mine has always popped going from low to high, much worse than going from hi to low. It also pops when I turn it on, and clicks when I turn it off. I just leave it in low gain, and I turn it on before I plug in.


----------



## mrarroyo

My D2 has reached 288 hours of continuous burn-in. I hope to start seriously listening to it Saturday/Sunday. Man this 400 hours of burn in are a pain.


----------



## HiFlight

You are a man of infinite patience. I started listening at hour one!


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

He said "seriously listening".


----------



## powertoold

I bet once you start seriously listening, the amp will be dead from 400 continuous ours of burn-in.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Just got the confirmation that the ALPS potentiometer and some browndogs are on their way. The four OPA627 should also be on their way already. So I should get them sometime next week 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## dap_pad

Just got mine... wow... the amp section is amazing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Looking forward to trying out the DAC section later on today


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got the confirmation that the ALPS potentiometer and some browndogs are on their way. The four OPA627 should also be on their way already. So I should get them sometime next week 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

Not sure how you plan to fit them in there...


----------



## powertoold

I think one of the dual SOIC BrownDogs has you solder one of the SOICs underneath another, so there won't be a fit problem.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Yes, exactly thats it.

 If you are looking for such: 
Single-to-dual Op-Amp Adapter (p/n 020302) - 020302

 There are also some Dual DIP to single DIP adapters, which works exactly like the above mentioned SOIC version but this would be a bit harder to fit into the case because this adapter is quite large.

 Edit: These adapters rewire pins 2 and 3 (input) and pin 6 (output) of the SOIC single channel opamps (like the OPA627) to the pins according to a dual channel opamp.


----------



## powertoold

I want to try the ADA4899-1 with the dual BrownDog:

Analog Devices ADA4899-1 - Unity-Gain Stable, Ultralow Distortion, 1 nV/âˆšHz Voltage Noise, High Speed Op Amp

 Pretty nice specs.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes, exactly thats it.

 If you are looking for such: 
Single-to-dual Op-Amp Adapter (p/n 020302) - 020302

 There are also some Dual DIP to single DIP adapters, which works exactly like the above mentioned SOIC version but this would be a bit harder to fit into the case because this adapter is quite large.

 Edit: These adapters rewire pins 2 and 3 (input) and pin 6 (output) of the SOIC single channel opamps (like the OPA627) to the pins according to a dual channel opamp._

 

Sweet - how much does 4 OPA627 cost? The two Browndogs are under $6.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

I paid 30 Euro for them... quite cheap for 4.


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I want to try the ADA4899-1 with the dual BrownDog:

Analog Devices ADA4899-1 - Unity-Gain Stable, Ultralow Distortion, 1 nV/âˆšHz Voltage Noise, High Speed Op Amp

 Pretty nice specs._

 

While the specs look quite good, the quiescent current requirements at over 16ma per each amp is the highest that I have seen for any of the audio opamps that have thus far been mentioned for rolling. 

 I would guess that one would need to use this opamp with AC power to avoid 3-4 hour battery life


----------



## onlychild

Hello HiFlight,

 I sent you a PM and email couple days ago to buy the D2 OPAMP package you are selling but you did not respond to either. Are you still selling them?

 Thanks.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While the specs look quite good, the quiescent current requirements at over 16ma per each amp is the highest that I have seen for any of the audio opamps that have thus far been mentioned for rolling. 

 I would guess that one would need to use this opamp with AC power to avoid 3-4 hour battery life_

 

Hmm, how about the THS4032? Doesn't it have a high current draw also? It looks like it's 90mA for the dual opamp.

100-MHz Low Noise Voltage-Feedback Amplifier, Dual - THS4032 - TI Product Folder

 I'll try the 4899-1 anyway when I find the courage to spend more money on opamps.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HiFlight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_While the specs look quite good, the quiescent current requirements at over 16ma per each amp is the highest that I have seen for any of the audio opamps that have thus far been mentioned for rolling. 

 I would guess that one would need to use this opamp with AC power to avoid 3-4 hour battery life_

 

Hmm, how about the THS4032? Doesn't it have a high current draw also? It looks like it's 90mA for the dual opamp.

100-MHz Low Noise Voltage-Feedback Amplifier, Dual - THS4032 - TI Product Folder

 I'll try the 4899-1 anyway when I find the courage to spend more money on opamps.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Mini-Review Updated:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/min...ml#post4002515


----------



## HiFlight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm, how about the THS4032? Doesn't it have a high current draw also? It looks like it's 90mA for the dual opamp.

100-MHz Low Noise Voltage-Feedback Amplifier, Dual - THS4032 - TI Product Folder

 I'll try the 4899-1 anyway when I find the courage to spend more money on opamps._

 

Yes, the 4032 has a rather high quiescent current at 11ma/channel, but roughly only 2/3 that of the 4899. Remember that the 90ma current you mention is not the quiescent current, but rather the output current. Quiescent current, or "Iq" is the current drawn just by turning the opamp on. Idling current, if you will.


----------



## powertoold

Oh, thanks for the clarification. I never saw that Iq value at the top


----------



## joay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ack_0220* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_With the DAC input.......it just doesn't sound right, sounds like it cannot scale properly.....everything just don't sound right when i turn it loud....but when i switch to the analog.....it sound so much better....everything is just better....bass, soundstange, focus......do you have the P2?? Have you heard it?_

 

Bingo,

 There's something clearly wrong with my unit. The SQ is very poor thru the DAC. Very thin with highs and lows rolled off (the exact oppsite of a review i've read of the freq response being a "U"). The lows are so rolled off they're way off in the distance. As you strain to hear the bass by about 1 o'clock you notice how muddled it is.....and as an added bonus there's a very pronounced flickering static. Something is clearly wrong. A Walmart $10 CDP with stock buds would give this a run for the money. 
Attachment 3329


----------



## joay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have read several accounts of the dac not sounding right. I am not sure what is going on as mine sounds fine. What is being heard that is not right?_

 


 see above.

 Anyone notice the D1 is listed "out if stock" but the D2 is NO LONGER LISTED AT ALL. In my 17 years working for small businesses removing your product listing is not a good sign. (as of 3-26-08, 11:30PM)


----------



## jamato8

I don't have any issues with the dac. Deep bass and good highs as well as mids with either the amp or amp and dac. I wish I knew what the problem was with the units mentioned. I would email iBasso for sure.


----------



## dap_pad

Definitely... my unit sounds awesome 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 E-mail iBasso and see if they can exchange your unit. From what I hear their customer service is excellent.


----------



## joay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't have any issues with the dac. Deep bass and good highs as well as mids with either the amp or amp and dac. I wish I knew what the problem was with the units mentioned. I would email iBasso for sure._

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dap_pad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Definitely... my unit sounds awesome 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 E-mail iBasso and see if they can exchange your unit. From what I hear their customer service is excellent._

 


 I'll post my experience with Ibasso and any results if I receive a new unit.


----------



## MetalGeek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone notice the D1 is listed "out if stock" but the D2 is NO LONGER LISTED AT ALL. In my 17 years working for small businesses removing your product listing is not a good sign. (as of 3-26-08, 11:30PM)_

 

I wouldn't worry about that. I think the reason it was removed is because the item listed was the D2-Viper, consisting of only the first 100 D2s made, which included a DIP socket for opamp rolling. After those first 100, I believe it switches to just the D2 without the DIP socket, and they'll put the item back up as just D2. 

 Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_see above.

 Anyone notice the D1 is listed "out if stock" but the D2 is NO LONGER LISTED AT ALL. In my 17 years working for small businesses removing your product listing is not a good sign. (as of 3-26-08, 11:30PM)_

 

That isnt a bad move at all. esp considering the fact that they are making 2 versions of D2.


----------



## powertoold

Lol, iBasso does some weird things that don't jive with conventional business practices. For example, they ran out of D1 cases for the longest time... when they knew they should have stocked up on it.


----------



## jamato8

It isn't always easy to figure out what model may sell or not. I know I have emailed iBasso in the past and the case supplier they use always takes longer than what they say they will take. They also said they were waiting for the new cases for the D2, which is about the same length as the Pico or Predator.


----------



## ack_0220

Mine died a few days after reporting that something was wrong with it.....no sound coming out at all. However, i should note that i don't believe that there is any fault on the DAC on my unit, just that the analog input has higher dynamic range and sound somewhat better. I sent mine back to iBasso and they will fix it for me. iBasso has been really quick in dealing with my problems, just email them and i am sure they will help you on it.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bingo,

 There's something clearly wrong with my unit. The SQ is very poor thru the DAC. Very thin with highs and lows rolled off (the exact oppsite of a review i've read of the freq response being a "U"). The lows are so rolled off they're way off in the distance. As you strain to hear the bass by about 1 o'clock you notice how muddled it is.....and as an added bonus there's a very pronounced flickering static. Something is clearly wrong. A Walmart $10 CDP with stock buds would give this a run for the money. 
Attachment 3329_


----------



## Fatsosixsixsix

Just wondering how to order the D2, because it's not listed on the ibasso site >_>
 Also just wondering whether $199 also covers international shipping?


----------



## MetalGeek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fatsosixsixsix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wondering how to order the D2, because it's not listed on the ibasso site >_>
 Also just wondering whether $199 also covers international shipping?_

 

It isn't listed because they are currently out of stock.


----------



## Fatsosixsixsix

Ah, I figured it would be something like that.
 Thanks, I'll e-mail them about the shipping question like I should've done in the first place.


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Fatsosixsixsix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just wondering how to order the D2, because it's not listed on the ibasso site >_>
 Also just wondering whether $199 also covers international shipping?_

 

Shipping is $17.00 USD


----------



## joay

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *joay* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Bingo,

 There's something clearly wrong with my unit. The SQ is very poor thru the DAC. Very thin with highs and lows rolled off (the exact oppsite of a review i've read of the freq response being a "U"). The lows are so rolled off they're way off in the distance. As you strain to hear the bass by about 1 o'clock you notice how muddled it is.....and as an added bonus there's a very pronounced flickering static. Something is clearly wrong. A Walmart $10 CDP with stock buds would give this a run for the money. 
Attachment 3329_

 


 Something has changed overnight (without burning in). It sounds substantially better today by a very large margin. The hiss is gone and the lows which were very distant are now very pronounced. I let you know if anything changes with burn-in.


----------



## dap_pad

LOL so it wasn't defective? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 that's just weird. Mine sounded great from day 1. But then again, I've only had it for 2 days


----------



## jamato8

Well that was it on this D2 version. iBasso stated that it would be 100 of this version. They are going to come out with another D2 as they have stated. If there will be any more dip sockets I don't know. The non dip version will be shorter of course.


----------



## kuzzz

damn i will never be able to afford one before the 100 vipers are sold
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 i want one so bad


----------



## MONVMENTVM

hmm... they ARE already sold out. The only thing you could do, is looking in the FS forum or waiting for the D2 without the DIP sockets.


----------



## jamato8

They will have more to come but I am not sure about the dip. Any issues will be worked on, which the normal course of action for any product from a car to anything made. The sound is very good and I haven't had any issues with mine but the popping for someone with IEM's would be bad so I am sure they will address this as well as a couple of other things. Great bang for the devalued buck here in the US that Bush has disgraced.


----------



## meusickfrek

Post deleted


----------



## user1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MetalGeek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It isn't listed because they are currently out of stock._

 

When do you think they are going to re stock them?


----------



## MetalGeek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *user1* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When do you think they are going to re stock them?_

 

Hard to say. It sounds like they've got some tweaks and adjustments to make to it before they release more. I have no idea how long it will take them.


----------



## MONVMENTVM

When I asked them about the pots, they said that they are waiting for some higher quality ALPHA pots and I think they said they will take about a month or something like that. I think they'll wait until they have these in stock.


----------



## Jaw007

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They will have more to come but I am not sure about the dip. Any issues will be worked on, which the normal course of action for any product from a car to anything made. The sound is very good and I haven't had any issues with mine but the popping for someone with IEM's would be bad so I am sure they will address this as well as a couple of other things. Great bang for the devalued buck here in the US that Bush has disgraced._

 

Blame the declining dollar on big business.And capitalistic greed,and the influx of
 illegal aliens coming across the borders everyday.Also the jobs sent to China&and other foreign countries for cheap labor.I agree the politicians and the carlyle group causes this also,the list goes on.and on.


----------



## Fatsosixsixsix

hm, without dip sockets, the D2 is worse?


----------



## jamato8

I am not sure why it would be worse. Worse than what?


----------



## powertoold

Worse than being able to choose your own sound signature? Yes.


----------



## jamato8

Ok, I understand. But some don't care to. Look at the orders the Pico has. Over 400 from what I can see and most likely near 500 on an amp that there can be no change to unless you desoldered the 8397 and I don't most people are going to do that. If the sound is good, well there may be no need to change but I understand what you are saying, it is fun to try different opamps/sounds.


----------



## TSi

Okay, I have just read all 53 pages again. I still dont get too much about opamp rolling on the D2. I can see there are different examples and different parts, but that doesnt explain what I can use.

 Could someone give me the "requirements" of what the opamp is needed for it to work in the D2?.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, I have just read all 53 pages again. I still dont get too much about opamp rolling on the D2. I can see there are different examples and different parts, but that doesnt explain what I can use.

 Could someone give me the "requirements" of what the opamp is needed for it to work in the D2?._

 

If you have the D2 I would email HiFlight and he can help you with some good opamps that will be top flight.


----------



## Fatsosixsixsix

Ah sorry, I should've been clearer about my post.
 Just what are dip sockets?


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If you have the D2 I would email HiFlight and he can help you with some good opamps that will be top flight._

 

i have a d2, but then i want to experiment with other opamps... like im pretty sure theres stuff i can try (other than these)
 so id like to know requirements and stuff.


----------



## ndskyz

I sent iBasso an email asking for the correct address to send my High gain D2 back, and here's their response.

  Quote:


 Hello, Bryan,
 Thank you for your email.
 You are not suppose to send the high gain version D2 back. You can keep it for your future usage.
 Have a good weekend.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio 
 






 Not that Im complaining...but that cant be good for business. LOL


----------



## dap_pad

LOL ya, they didn't bother with the shipping the High Gain back, hey better for us, now we kinda have 2 D2s 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 LOL


----------



## powertoold

that's nice 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I bet you can find a Hammond case for the D2 and resell it here hehe


----------



## Downer

So if you got a high gain version, they send you regular version PCB for free ??? How do I know I got the high gain version ???


----------



## dap_pad

They'll send you an e-mail if you got the high gain version. Then you can arrange for them to send you the "normal" gain version. It was a delivery error or something, the "high" gain version was made especially for some special client/company iBasso had.


----------



## Downer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dap_pad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They'll send you an e-mail if you got the high gain version. Then you can arrange for them to send you the "normal" gain version. It was a delivery error or something, the "high" gain version was made especially for some special client/company iBasso had._

 

Thanks for the info...


----------



## TSi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I sent iBasso an email asking for the correct address to send my High gain D2 back, and here's their response.






 Not that Im complaining...but that cant be good for business. LOL_

 

to tell you the truth, they must be VERY good in business for them to say "dont need to ship it back"


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ndskyz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I sent iBasso an email asking for the correct address to send my High gain D2 back, and here's their response.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iBasso Audio* 
Hello, Bryan,
 Thank you for your email.
 You are not suppose to send the high gain version D2 back. You can keep it for your future usage.
 Have a good weekend.

 Sincerely
 iBasso Audio

 





 Not that Im complaining...but that cant be good for business. LOL_

 

I told you guys this, but nobody listened to me.


----------



## wired00

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TSi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Okay, I have just read all 53 pages again. I still dont get too much about opamp rolling on the D2. I can see there are different examples and different parts, but that doesnt explain what I can use.

 Could someone give me the "requirements" of what the opamp is needed for it to work in the D2?._

 

Im new with the D2 and everything regarding opamp rolling TSi but i can atleast give you the links to where i ordered adapters + opamps - incase it helps you

 heres the opamp 8pin surface mount to 8pin DIP adapter from browndog. I ordered a bunch of them
SO8 to 8-pin DIP Adapter (p/n 970601) - 970601

 based off headphoneaddicts post i purchased 1x LM6172 and 1x THS4032.
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/min...-lyrix-306883/

 i went through National National Semiconductor, High-Performance Analog for Energy-Efficient PowerWise Designs but they directed me to RS components RS Components Australia - RS Components is the leading high service level global supplier of Industrial components and tools, with over 56,000 products despatched same day. to order


----------



## PlasticChicken

The blue led light on my d2 viper recently started flashing on and off and it won't stop. Nothing wrong with the amp itself, but its getting pretty annoying. Does a flashing led light mean something or what?

 EDIT: nvm, i was really stupid. The ac plug got disconnected and it wasnt charging so it ran out of batteries just now....


----------



## meusickfrek

So the Viper lets you know when the battery is about to die?


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

RE: Flashing LED with low battery:

 Yeah, the P2 was the same way. I never ran the D1 down low enough to see if it flashes like the P2 and D2 when battery is low.


----------



## jamato8

Well the next version of the D2 will not have the dip socket so enjoy the ones you have with them.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Just to re-assure people, the D2 sounds great once I hit 300+ hours, and if I couldn't roll the opamps I wouldn't be unhappy with it if I was looking for small and in the $200-250 price range instead of the $500 (like Predator and Pico). 

 In this price range, if I didn't already have a D2 and if I couldn't roll opamps, the only thing that would make me hesitate in getting the $255 2MOVE instead of a D2 is the bigger size and heavier weight of the 2MOVE (built like a tank). They both sound good, but I do prefer the sound of the 2MOVE more than the Stock D2 - it's not a matter of which sounds better or worse, but which difference in sound you prefer.

 But, the icing on the cake is that the D2 Viper with DIP sockets can made to sound just like a 2MOVE or better, with LM6172 in main socket and THS4032 in the secondary, and it is smaller than 2MOVE which is nice. And, even with the 2 new opamps the D2 viper is a little less expensive.

 Lastly is the choice of build quality - I really think I feel more confident with Meier products than iBasso as far as reliability and build quality (based on previous P2 and D1 experiences). Customer service at iBasso however makes up for it, and they are responsive to issues and will take care of problems (as will Meier).


----------



## jamato8

The D2 minus the dip sockets will be the same size as the Pico or Predator and will have optimized opamps. To be honest, sometimes I like not even having to think about what opamp to try next.


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The D2 minus the dip sockets will be the same size as the Pico or Predator and will have optimized opamps. To be honest, sometimes I like not even having to think about what opamp to try next._

 

If they keep the price at $200 it should sell like hot cakes. Heck it should be awesome!


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just to re-assure people, the D2 sounds great once I hit 300+ hours, and if I couldn't roll the opamps I wouldn't be unhappy with it if I was looking for small and in the $200-250 price range instead of the $500 (like Predator and Pico). 

 In this price range, if I didn't already have a D2 and if I couldn't roll opamps, the only thing that would make me hesitate in getting the $255 2MOVE instead of a D2 is the bigger size and heavier weight of the 2MOVE (built like a tank). They both sound good, but I do prefer the sound of the 2MOVE more than the Stock D2 - it's not a matter of which sounds better or worse, but which difference in sound you prefer.

 But, the icing on the cake is that the D2 Viper with DIP sockets can made to sound just like a 2MOVE or better, with LM6172 in main socket and THS4032 in the secondary, and it is smaller than 2MOVE which is nice. And, even with the 2 new opamps the D2 viper is a little less expensive.

 Lastly is the choice of build quality - I really think I feel more confident with Meier products than iBasso as far as reliability and build quality (based on previous P2 and D1 experiences). Customer service at iBasso however makes up for it, and they are responsive to issues and will take care of problems (as will Meier)._

 

Hi, is the secondary socket where iBasso puts the NE5532? Thanks.


----------



## powertoold

Yes, the secondary, which HiFlight refers to as IC-7, is where the NE5532 is placed.


----------



## wired00

sorry i can't find the thread (im sure it was head-fi?) about the DIY mod to fix the short when the D2 is connected to power. Anyone have a link to it?

 I listen to music pretty much nonstop at work so would prefer having it plugged into mains instead of using the battery. But the buzzing when plugged in is quite annoying >:|

 Thanks for any help


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wired00* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sorry i can't find the thread (im sure it was head-fi?) about the DIY mod to fix the short when the D2 is connected to power. Anyone have a link to it?

 I listen to music pretty much nonstop at work so would prefer having it plugged into mains instead of using the battery. But the buzzing when plugged in is quite annoying >:|

 Thanks for any help_

 

When the PCB slides into the lower half of the case, the left side of the PCB should be grounded against the rail that holds the PCB in place. The case there is painted or anodized, so it doesn't ground well.

 So, you slide out the PCB and put something sharp into the slot of the rail on the left (like a small screw driver), and scrape some of the anodizing off the inside of the rail the full length.


----------



## wired00

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When the PCB slides into the lower half of the case, the left side of the PCB should be grounded against the rail that holds the PCB in place. The case there is painted or anodized, so it doesn't ground well.

 So, you slide out the PCB and put something sharp into the slot of the rail on the left (like a small screw driver), and scrape some of the anodizing off the inside of the rail the full length._

 

ahh cheers headphoneaddict

 i knew it had something to do with the inside of the case


----------



## meusickfrek

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wired00* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ahh cheers headphoneaddict

 i knew it had something to do with the inside of the case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

A metal nail file works perfectly


----------



## kuzzz

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mrarroyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If they keep the price at $200 it should sell like hot cakes. Heck it should be awesome!_

 

i doubt it but i sure hope so 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 135.97 Euro for a amp like that is a steal (if i dont have douane troubles^^)


----------



## user1

Anyone know if they are going to be re stocking that amp in the future?


----------



## jamato8

They are coming out with the D2 with no sockets. Shorter and with optimized opamps. They are waiting on the cases.


----------



## gregzx

Can anyone compare it to the corda amps? Like the headsix or 2move? Thanks in advance,

 greg


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Optimized opamps? Sounds interesting.

 Anyway I recieved my ALPS pot and I finally don't have this scratching sound anymore. The OPA627 arrived too and this one really sounds great. I put it into the L/R socket but I also swapped the 5532 with the one that was in the L/R socket before... it gives me a warmer sound now.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gregzx* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone compare it to the corda amps? Like the headsix or 2move? Thanks in advance,

 greg_

 

MINI-REVIEW of FOUR USB DAC amps - RSA Predator, Headamp Pico, iBasso D2, Headstage Lyrix - Page 11 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio

 There is an update further along in there with 2MOVE and with new opamps in the D2 vs stock D2.


----------



## gregzx

Thanks for the link! 9I should have done more search before asking the question 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


----------



## wired00

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MONVMENTVM* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Optimized opamps? Sounds interesting.

 Anyway I recieved my ALPS pot and I finally don't have this scratching sound anymore. The OPA627 arrived too and this one really sounds great. I put it into the L/R socket but I also swapped the 5532 with the one that was in the L/R socket before... it gives me a warmer sound now._

 

hey MONVM, can you elaborate a little on the ALPS pot and scratching sound? I know mine makes a scratching sound when adjusting the volume...is this what your referring to?

 cheers


----------



## Nihility

would this work with an ipod?


----------



## MONVMENTVM

Why shouldn't it work? Technically it would for sure.

 @wired00: The original pot in the D2 had extremely loud scratching noise when turning it on or off. It seems to me that when you turn it on or off, the DC signal path of the switch inside of the pot contacts the audio signal path for a short moment, giving this loud noise.
 Last time at night, when I stopped listening to music, I put my phones off and in the moment I turned off the amp my girl friend woke up... just to give you an idea of how loud it was. In fact I feared that this could even harm my headphones and if I had them on my head it did really hurt in my ears.

 Anyway it's gone with the ALPS pot right now, though it was apparent with the original one after about a week anyway so theoretically it could happen here too... But I don't believe that it will 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

 And just for your information the "click" sound when the amp is in high gain mode is still there, because it is related to the circuit and not to the pot. But it isn't nearly as loud as the scratching sound I had before and I use the amp in low gain mode mainly anyway.


----------



## jamato8

Interesting. I do get a slight on and off sound but no scratching but I agree that the gain switch is loud but then I don't go back and forth with it.


----------



## wired00

yeah the gain noise has shocked the system a few times  especially with IEM!

 @Nihility yes it works with an Ipod, i use mine mainly with my ipod video and laptop

 with an ipod to avoid the dodgy headphone out DAC you will need (at least) a line out dock connector like this (the amp comes with a headphone-to -headphone jack cable to use):
IPOD LINE OUT DOCK WITH STEREO JACK(BLACK VER.2)W/CABLE - eBay Other, Headphones, Headsets, A V Accessories Cables, Consumer Electronics. (end time 16-Mar-08 03:26:07 AEDST)

 Basically connect a cable from the lineout/dock into the "input" on the D2, then plug your headphones into the "output" of the D2.

 You can make your own dock cable or interconnect (see DIY section) or buy a pre-made full on silver/gold/etc plated setup which can cost upto $200US+

 You'll quickly realise to avoid the standard headphone outputs otherwise you'll hear hissing in the background

 for the laptop or computer you can avoid the headphone jack by connecting via USB cable.

 Hope that helps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 DIY interconnect threads (my next mission!):
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/how...ep-pics-50729/

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/diy...gallery-71148/


----------



## dap_pad

Hmm... interesting, I've never had any scratchy volume pot problems and my D2 is absolutely silent in low gain mode. It's switching to Hi-Gain and turning on the unit on from high gain that gives me the "popping sound".

 I do loose control of the volume pot after around the 2-3 o'clock position though, i.e. Volume doesn't increase after that, but I would never listen that loud so it's fine


----------



## wired00

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dap_pad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hmm... interesting, I've never had any scratchy volume pot problems and my D2 is absolutely silent in low gain mode. It's switching to Hi-Gain and turning on the unit on from high gain that gives me the "popping sound".

 I do loose control of the volume pot after around the 2-3 o'clock position though, i.e. Volume doesn't increase after that, but I would never listen that loud so it's fine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yep mine gets that when adjusting the volume. not really a worry for me though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 its the gain switch which is worrying when i reach into my bag to change the volume and accidentally hit the gain switch! people on the bus must see my jump in pain lol


----------



## HiFlight

The scratching sound heard from the D2 volume pot varies depending on the choice of opamps...Some make no noise at all, others quite a bit. I am, at the moment, using 2 LM6622 opamps and they make a lot of noise, but it is of little consequence, as they sound superb!


----------



## wired00

hmmm your right. last night in installed two OPA2111 opamps. I just tested this - the volume scratching is gone, but now theres a loud click when i turn the knob/D2 on and off. 

 Also the gain click is probably 3x louder...i only just then flicked the switch, it was painfully loud with IEMs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I won't do that again


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *wired00* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_hmmm your right. last night in installed two OPA2111 opamps. I just tested this - the volume scratching is gone, but now theres a loud click when i turn the knob/D2 on and off. 

 Also the gain click is probably 3x louder...i only just then flicked the switch, it was painfully loud with IEMs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I won't do that again_

 

Hey, you were warned 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW, don't put your hand in fire either.


----------



## LeftyGorilla

Hey, can y'all comment on what phones you're driving with the D2, and how they are responding?

 I guess I'm thinking primarily of power considerations with the rechargeable batteries, but certainly more poetic musings about opamp synergy or things even more esoteric would be great. 

 I've heard from ibasso that the next iteration is coming sooner than later...


----------



## wired00

i've used : se530, hd25, hd200 and some crappy sony mdr250's

 se530 and the closed hd25 and hd200's sound fantastic 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Im currently using LM6172 as main opamp with THS4032 and love the combo. I have only taken note of battery life with the se530's and got ~ 18-19 hours

 Love the D2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Even though i've not tested any other headphone amps, I think its great to stand up against the predator and pico for a much cheaper price


----------



## iittoo

can i ask,what impedance can this D2 viper take up to?can even drive those diff to drive can?and heard that viper D2 is limited edition ar?


----------



## daco63

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *iittoo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_can i ask,what impedance can this D2 viper take up to?can even drive those diff to drive can?and heard that viper D2 is limited edition ar?_

 

Others here are much more knowledgable, but I have AKG K240s which are 600 ohm, and the D2 works just fine. Sounds great to me in fact, but doesn't drive them super-loud. Not a problem for me. 

 The "D2 Viper" is the limited edition version which has opamp sockets so you can roll your own. There is supposed to be a production version of the D2 with soldered opamps due out soon. I think someone mentioned it will be called "D2 Boa".


----------



## powertoold

For you super sensitive IEM lovers out there, I found that my D2 Viper makes a low volume "crack" noise every 7-10s in low gain when plugged in. This crack is basically the charging circuit checking its charge or something. It's very annoying, so I only use low noise opamps at high gain now. 

 Your mileage may vary though. My FreQs are sensitive to all sorts of signal imperfections.

 Edit: Well it comes and goes. I'm not sure what causes it. I'll update once I figure it out.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For you super sensitive IEM lovers out there, I found that my D2 Viper makes a low volume "crack" noise every 7-10s in low gain when plugged in. This crack is basically the charging circuit checking its charge or something. It's very annoying, so I only use low noise opamps at high gain now. 

 Your mileage may vary though. My FreQs are sensitive to all sorts of signal imperfections.

 Edit: Well it comes and goes. I'm not sure what causes it. I'll update once I figure it out._

 

Did you do the "scratch the anodizing off the chassis where the PCB grounds to the rail it slide in on" mod?


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Did you do the "scratch the anodizing off the chassis where the PCB grounds to the rail it slide in on" mod?_

 

No, I haven't done it, but I think it does have something to do with the grounding. I found that the cracks occur when I discharge the case by touching it, but if I leave it alone for a while, the cracking disappears. Also, the cracking doesn't occur when the amp is unplugged and running off the battery.

 Oh well, it doesn't bug me much. I'm just not going to touch it often 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, keep in mind that the cracking is very inaudible, but I listen to music at the "off" position of the D2, lol.


----------



## jamato8

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *powertoold* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_No, I haven't done it, but I think it does have something to do with the grounding. I found that the cracks occur when I discharge the case by touching it, but if I leave it alone for a while, the cracking disappears. Also, the cracking doesn't occur when the amp is unplugged and running off the battery.

 Oh well, it doesn't bug me much. I'm just not going to touch it often 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Also, keep in mind that the cracking is very inaudible, but I listen to music at the "off" position of the D2, lol._

 

Well it is a very easy fix.


----------



## lucifix

Thread revival!!

 I just bought my Viper a few hours ago, really excited as I got them together with the UM2's and they are sounding great!

 Was concerned about the resale value of the Viper, I read *somewhere* on the forum, that one of these iBasso amps, either the P2 or D2 were produced in very limited quantities like 150 or so.

 Can anyone shed some light on this? I bought the Viper because of the DAC abilities and also due to its higher (as compared to other amps) resale value.

 Thanks!!


 Gerald


----------



## HiFlight

The initial run of Vipers were made with sockets for the opamps that allowed one to change opamps. Later Vipers had no removeable opamps, but were a bit shorter in length. 

 The P2 also had sockets, but no DAC. It did have 3-position gain and bass boost switches.


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jamato8* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well it is a very easy fix._

 

Well, after I did the mod, some pops and minor cracks still occur but less frequently.

 Should I scratch off more of the lacquer to make it better, or is that pointless?

 Also, after I did the mod, a few days after, I loss my right channel, but after opening up the case and scratching a few random things, it came back, lol.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

I had an LM6172 SOIC soldered onto a DIP adapter that had an intermittent left channel after the solder joint broke on one of the pins. With that I found out one shouldn't press on the center of those soldered opamps, but rather one should press on the edges to seat them. Could that be the problem?


----------



## lucifix

Ok, I am totally new to opamp rolling but heck I'd like to give a shot at it.







 Where the hell are the opamps? There are so many components in this and only the black rectangular thing seems removable?

 Thanks!


----------



## powertoold

Almost all DIP opamps have a notch on one side (horizontally) that looks like a half-circle. On the circuit board, there is also a half-circle diagram. If you match up the two half-circles when you install the opamp, it should be fine. If you don't see the half-circle on your opamp, then line up the opamp to the socket in such a way that you can read the opamp normally (ie. left to right) when the half-circle on the circuit board is on your left.

 Here is a picture (the BrownDog is also self-explanatory):


----------



## lucifix

I must be really blunt of something but I make no sense of what is said 

 The thing you circled on the top left and bottom right of the picture are the opamps?

 So which one do I "roll" and why is it called rolling? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe it would be best if I found a DIY Post on opamp rolling but I can't seem to find any.

 I hope I'm not not jacking the post but it is relevant to Viper rolling 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks!


 Gerald

 oh yea I have been burning in my Viper for about 14 hours now but there is this weird problem.
 When I initially played it with my iPod, the volume was almost close to off position when in a comfortable position.
 But now after 14 hours of burning in (in slightly more than comfortable listening volume) the level of volume is now increased by an eight. (1/8 of the volume knob).

 Can anyone explain why and if this is normal?


----------



## daco63

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lucifix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The thing you circled on the top left and bottom right of the picture are the opamps?_

 

Yes.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lucifix* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So which one do I "roll" and why is it called rolling? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I think the term comes from rolling your own smokes. You roll them up with whatever tobacco you like to get the flavor you want.

 Same thing here. Both of those opamps can be pulled out of their sockets and replaced with other opamps for a different "flavor"

 Quickest way to give it a try is to send a message to Hiflight -- he'll sell you 4 opamps that people have tried with success in the Viper. Try them all in different combinations and see how the sound changes. Use whatever combo sounds best to you, and if you get bored, you can try something else.

 Good luck!

 - Dave


----------



## boodi

Good morning everyone .

 Quick question quick answer ( hopefully more then one ) 

 Any better usb dac/amp for the price then the Viper ?

 Sorry, did have no time to make a full research , just tryin to figure out a fast buy thing as I'm in need and just discarded an Emu 0404 usb


----------



## boodi

no need for ultraportability


----------



## ack_0220

Hi guys,

 I've been out of touch with Head-fi for months now (exams), got my Viper back from iBasso a month ago, had to send it back due to the OEM opamp gone haywire. I've been using the D2 everyday since then, it has burnt in quite well already. ready to roll some opamps now, any good suggestion?


----------



## powertoold

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ack_0220* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi guys,

 I've been out of touch with Head-fi for months now (exams), got my Viper back from iBasso a month ago, had to send it back due to the OEM opamp gone haywire. I've been using the D2 everyday since then, it has burnt in quite well already. ready to roll some opamps now, any good suggestion?_

 

Depends on what headphones you are going to use them with. It's usually best to just roll random ones yourself unless someone has your headphones. If someone tells you one is "good", it's probably only good for their headphones at that moment.


----------



## jamato8

Check the posts by HiFlight, he has some of the best information on the opamps of the Viper and there are a few others as well.


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boodi* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Good morning everyone .

 Quick question quick answer ( hopefully more then one ) 

 Any better usb dac/amp for the price then the Viper ?

 Sorry, did have no time to make a full research , just tryin to figure out a fast buy thing as I'm in need and just discarded an Emu 0404 usb_

 

You would probably really enjoy the 2MOVE more if you planned to leave the viper with the stock opamps.


----------



## dap_pad

Just wondering... what specs are the charger for the D2 Viper again?


----------



## boodi

no chances to get a viper by this time isn't it ?
 ibasso states is definitely unvailable .


----------



## dap_pad

Basically the only way to get one now is through the Head-Fi FS forums


----------



## lucifix

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dap_pad* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Basically the only way to get one now is through the Head-Fi FS forums 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

There are new ones retailing at the iBasso Authorised Dealer in Singapore, stereo electronics.

 try emailing them to see if they can help you


----------



## daco63

I also just put mine up for sale, if you're interested:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f42/fs...1/#post4374405


----------



## boodi

thanks for notice me


----------



## Elluzion

where can i get op amps????? i have ultrasone 750's, which op amps are best for my d2 viper? can someone give me general information. what is needed etc,,,

 i know nothing about op amps and rolling and whatever, i just want basic info and what I can do.. thanks!


----------



## daco63

Some info here:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/opa...per-d2-308023/


----------



## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After I pointed out the 6172 in LR and 4032 in the second socket, HiFlight tried it and loved it. But, neither of us had tried the 55002 in place of the 4032, so he tried it and liked it.

 I didn't like the 55002+4032 as much, nor the 6172+6172, but wonder about flipping mine the other way around with the 4032 in main with 6172 in the second one.

 Then there is the 4032 in main with 55002 in the ground channel. I don't know if either of us has tried that one._

 

I finally got around to swapping the LM6172 in the main socket and THS4032 in the ground channel.

 The original combo was best with things like my Grado RS-1, but too forward in the mids and rolled off in the treble for my Freq Show IEM or a-JAYS. With the opamps swapped it is perfect for the Freq Shows, q-JAYS, Denon D2000, HD600, but too shrill or treble boosted for the RS-1 (APS V3 cabled).

 Swapping the THS4032 for the AD8397 was similar, as was the ISL55002, but the LT134 is still a little rolled off, while the AD8397 is maybe slightly brighter but a little edgier.


----------



## wired00

Can anyone give advice of improving the "scratchy" sound from the volume pot? i don't really mind the scratchy sound when actually adjusting the volume but mine is now making a sort of scratchy static sound in the background constantly even when not adjusting the volume. If i make minute changes i can limit the static but can not completely get rid of it. 

 I might try changing back to the original opamps and see if that fixes things... i haven't changed opamps in a while but remember they would change the loudness of the gain switch popping sound... so might also improve the sensitivity of the volume static?

 Edit: i remember ages ago someone mentioned they replaced the volume pot but can't find the post

 Edit: found kinda what i was after:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/opa...23/index2.html


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## greenarrow

Basing on HiFlight's suggestion, I rolled my D2 Viper using LTC6241HV and the LMH6655. Initial hearing, the sound is much better than the original opamps. Just rolled a few minutes back. Will have to let the burning starts.

 Good recommendations, Ron


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## HeadphoneAddict

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greenarrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Basing on HiFlight's suggestion, I rolled my D2 Viper using LTC6241HV and the LMH6655. Initial hearing, the sound is much better than the original opamps. Just rolled a few minutes back. Will have to let the burning starts.

 Good recommendations, Ron 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Be careful when plugging in and unplugging headphones with the power on and volume at normal volumes, as this caused my LTC6241HV to blow/fry/die. There is always a brief short in one of the channels as a headphone plug goes in or out, and the chip/amp combo does not like it. I also blew/killed an LTC6241HV in my Travagans Reg, but I am not sure whether it was when I first turned on the amp or from plugging in headphones.


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## jma790

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *greenarrow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Basing on HiFlight's suggestion, I rolled my D2 Viper using LTC6241HV and the LMH6655. Initial hearing, the sound is much better than the original opamps. Just rolled a few minutes back. Will have to let the burning starts.

 Good recommendations, Ron 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Also, make sure that you put the opamps in the socket in the correct polarity. I fried my TSH4032 this way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There was a bit of smoke and everything


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## billybob_jcv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jma790* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, make sure that you put the opamps in the socket in the correct polarity. I fried my TSH4032 this way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There was a bit of smoke and everything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It's always a drag when you let the factory smoke out of electronics. The aftermarket replacement smoke is never quite as good, and it is a real b!tch getting the smoke back into the chips...


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## greenarrow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jma790* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Also, make sure that you put the opamps in the socket in the correct polarity. I fried my TSH4032 this way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 There was a bit of smoke and everything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hmmm ... no smoke but nice, sweet music coming out from my headphone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Next step is looking for a better headphone over my present Sennheiser R130 wireless.


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## blur510

quick question about the viper pls help.  I just mine today, does it work like the Boa where the aux in works as a line level out when the usb is plugged in? or do I run the 1/4" to RCA through the headphone out to connect to my amp? thanks


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## HeadphoneAddict

Quote: 





blur510 said:


> quick question about the viper pls help.  I just mine today, does it work like the Boa where the aux in works as a line level out when the usb is plugged in? or do I run the 1/4" to RCA through the headphone out to connect to my amp? thanks


 

 My recollection is there is no line out, so you use the headphone out to feed another amp.


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## blur510

Quote: 





headphoneaddict said:


> My recollection is there is no line out, so you use the headphone out to feed another amp.


 

 thanks, I know that that is not really the ideal way to send signal to an amp, but since that is how I am doing it for now, what volume level would be good on the D2?


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## HeadphoneAddict

I would turn down the volume of the amp you are going to listen to, and then plug the D2 into it as a source.  Then turn on the D2 first at zero volume, followed by turning on the second amp which I would set to about 3 o'clock (turn this on second in case you get a pop from turning on the D2 which you don't want to amplify).  And then with music playing I'd work the D2 volume control up to a normal listening level, while not touching the target amp volume if you don't need to.  This is basically using the D2 as a pre-amp.  If you turn the second amp to full volume you might get too much noise, which is why I suggested 3 o'clock.


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## blur510

thanks I will try that..


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