# How to 'brush' aluminum?



## funch

I was wondering if anyone here knew the best way to get a 'brushed' look
 on aluminum.


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## v3nom

How to brush Aluminum - bit-tech.net Forums

 or for the circular pattern you can get a wire brush drill attachment (as apposed to doing it by hand)


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## funch

Thanks for the link. I Googled, and found this How to Brush Aluminum | eHow.com as well as a couple of other threads in
 automotive sites. They all recommend the Scotch-Brite pads (red), and
 say to always brush in the same direction. The beeswax idea in the above
 link sounds good to me; no painting.


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## compuryan

I did this one time. It takes a lot of patience! and you can't try to half ass it or it will look terrible (haha personal experience)... anyway just take your time with it.


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## mark2410

how about buying what ever it is in brushed aluminium?


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## Logistics

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mark2410* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_how about buying what ever it is in brushed aluminium?_

 

This is a DIY sub-forum, remember?


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## Juaquin

My bet is that he has an enclosure already made specifically for his application and it's not made in brushed.


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## nickyboyo

Carefully make straight passes with wire wool if it's unclad aly, if it's clad scotchbrite will do well. Another nice finish for aly is, if you have any friends that work in a paint shop or a machine shop is to have it grit blasted, nice matt flat finish.


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## vixr

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nickyboyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Carefully make straight passes with wire wool if it's unclad aly, if it's clad scotchbrite will do well. Another nice finish for aly is, if you have any friends that work in a paint shop or a machine shop is to have it grit blasted, nice matt flat finish._

 

if you use water with the scotchbrite it will last longer and wont dig into the metal too deeply...wet the pad like a rag and wring it out a few times before you use it on the metal. The media blasting works really well, but any dirt or oil from your hands will instantly stain the matte finish, showing up fingerprints and will have to be given a coat of clear spray paint. you can see an example in my sig...plexi max has some bead blasted panels before they were painted black...


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## funch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Juaquin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My bet is that he has an enclosure already made specifically for his application and it's not made in brushed._

 

Correct-a-mundo. I just got a couple of panels for a Hammond N1601 case
 from FPE in raw aluminum. 

 Update: I just finished 'brushing' them. I tried the red Scotchbright, and it 
 worked very well. I then tried one of those sanding sponges. The grit level
 was labled 'fine/medium'. The sponge worked extremely well, and was pretty
 easy. Yes, you need to work slowly, and go in one direction. I found that 
 pulling toward me worked the best. I also used a guide board to keep the
 marks going straight. 

 Overall, I'm quite pleased with the results.


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## nickyboyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *vixr* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_if you use water with the scotchbrite it will last longer and wont dig into the metal too deeply...wet the pad like a rag and wring it out a few times before you use it on the metal. The media blasting works really well, but any dirt or oil from your hands will instantly stain the matte finish, showing up fingerprints and will have to be given a coat of clear spray paint. you can see an example in my sig...plexi max has some bead blasted panels before they were painted black..._

 


 Yes, everything vixr says is correct, especially the blasted aly just being a grease magnet. Lovely work on the plexi max enclosure- i do like the thick Al sheet side panels. Blasted Al with matt black paint looks just so good. I will post my latest build up shortly, Al front and rear panels, but much smaller gauge sheet- 0.063", folded for attachment and strength. I knew i should of taken photo's of the start to finish build process, your slideshow is very cool.

 Just looking at your case design again- our idea's are very similar. Hat's off to you bud.


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## vixr

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *nickyboyo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I will post my latest build up shortly, Al front and rear panels, but much smaller gauge sheet- 0.063", folded for attachment and strength. I knew i should of taken photo's of the start to finish build process_

 

cant wait to see it... other builders have influenced my work and I just plain enjoy seeing some of the killer stuff you guys can do.


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## cotdt

To get an even finish, I just polish the aluminum with fine sandpaper and then put it in strong Phosphoric Acid.


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## fishski13

i just used 100 grit sand paper on a DIY aluminum chassis for a tube guitar amp i'm building. it took quite a bit of sanding to get it a uniform color/grain, but i'm pleased with the results. i may try taking the grain down a bit with 600 grit.

 so far, it's withstood my greasy fingers without blemish. i still may try spraying a clear coat over it.

 cotdt,
 does the acid just brighten it?


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## cotdt

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *fishski13* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 cotdt,
 does the acid just brighten it?_

 

the acid does the opposite, it gives it a matte finish. useful for heatsinks, as a matte finish radiates heat better than a polished finish.


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## Uncle Erik

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cotdt* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To get an even finish, I just polish the aluminum with fine sandpaper and then put it in strong Phosphoric Acid._

 

Really? I didn't know phosphoric acid did that to aluminum. I am absolutely going to give it a try. Do you use Naval Jelly, or do you order it from a chemical supply place? How long do you leave it on/in and how do you neutralize it afterward? That sounds like the perfect finish for a few projects I have.


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## cotdt

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Uncle Erik* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Really? I didn't know phosphoric acid did that to aluminum. I am absolutely going to give it a try. Do you use Naval Jelly, or do you order it from a chemical supply place? How long do you leave it on/in and how do you neutralize it afterward? That sounds like the perfect finish for a few projects I have._

 

Naval Jelly should work. I let it soak for 2 days, then rinse with water and let it sit in air.


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## Mandrakespain

I do not know if this may help, it is a tutorial of how to re-finish watch bracelets, with both brushed and polished effect:

TimeZone: Omega: Tutorial: Bracelet Refurbishment (Bond SMP, Pic intensive)

 May be useful for the small parts...


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## MACDRU

Brushing aluminum with any grit will cause oxidation in the long run. For aluminum, a slightly hazy coating will form (not a big deal). Usually products that have a brushed aluminum finish are brushed (or etched) with that finish then clear anodized for protection and durability.


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## nickyboyo

Here we go vixr, the amp and casework i have just finished. Very similar design concept, different approach.






[/IMG]
 Mine's with a folded sheet construction, but i really do like your cut out plate concept


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## DanE-ARC

I routinely make brushed aluminum signs up to 5' x 10'.  There are three ways we go about this for large sheets of metal that require perfectly straight brush marks.
   
  1. Purchase brushed aluminum in premade 4x8 or 5x10 sizes - commonly .040 gauge.  Sign suppliers generally have this item in stock at an economical price.  If you need thicker aluminum see #2 & #3.
   
  2. Cheapest - Hand method - attach your aluminum sheet to a stiff flat backer.  Wrap a 2x4x12" block in 3-4 paper towels and your sand paper - you will get two uses per sheet - the paper towel acts as a cushion so that the sandpaper gets full contact.  We like coarse marks so we use 300 grit.  Using a straight 2x4 as a guide and 2 helpers have them hold the 2x4 against the metal at the same height (make sure they know how to use a tape measure so your marks are even) and run your sanding block against the guide to brush the surface.  Overlap each run 50% and change paper often.
   
  3. Easiest - if your doing a lot of this work get a drum sander, disconnect the dust collector so that you do not suck sparks into your big bag of wood dust and run the aluminum through several times alternating direction.  The first couple of inches usually do not sand well so flip the piece every run.  I dont recommend begging this off a friend with a hobby drum sander - chances are you will smoke their machine.  A professional wood shop will have rugged equipment.  We pay $75 to have 4x8 quarter inch plates brushed at our local wood shop - again.... tell them to cut off the dust collector or they may get miffed at you for burning down their shop.  Keep in mind drum sanders run at high RPM - you will use higher grits and end up with finer finishes than hand sanding due to the number of times the grit hits the metal.


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## wakibaki

We tried engine turning on a CNC mill at work, the effect was very good, but very expensive, because the brush would wear and the effect changed from one side of a panel to another, so you had to change the brush frequently. One botched roundel and the panel was irretrievable in some cases.
   
  w


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## vixr

Quote: 





nickyboyo said:


> Here we go vixr, the amp and casework i have just finished. Very similar design concept, different approach.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  AWESOME!!!    the wood is beautiful...wow just noticed how slow I am...'09?


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## daigo

Quote: 





vixr said:


> AWESOME!!!    the wood is beautiful...wow just noticed how slow I am...'09?


 
   
  I do find it amusing you're responding to that guy's post after three years.


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## vixr

Quote: 





daigo said:


> I do find it amusing you're responding to that guy's post after three years.


 
  I find it amusing that you pointed out something I already pointed out...


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