# Ultimate DIY: the 3.5mm 1/8" mini jack plug collection thread



## thedips

ok guys... after many many searches for the ultimate 3.5 mini plugs available for diy-ers.... seems like there arent as many cool plugs as there are rca or 1/4 .... 

 so here is my attempt to consolidate all those plugs and jacks in one convenient thread.. so that hopefully 3.5 searches will bring people here instead of little random threads all over the intrawebz!

 please feel free to contribute a 3.5mm 1/8" mini stereo/mono jack/plug to this REFERENCE thread for DIY cable makers..... 

 edit 1: also any suggestions comments or reviews of any or all of these plugs are also highly recommended!
 edit 2: please include any innards of any or all the mini plugs you come across that also would be a great reference for future cable makers.

 -------------------------------------------







 NEUTRIK
Neutrik, Connectors, XLR, Speakon, Audio
3.5mm plugs







 SWITCHCRAFT
Switchcraft
3.5 right angle
3.5 heavy duty








 CANARE 
Canare Corp. - Quality Cables and Connectors
3.5 plugs Canare F series








 CALRAD
www.calrad.com
calrad series 30 connectors









 XLOHT
XLO Electric
3.5 XLO ht plug








 PAILICCS
pailiccs 3.5mm plug








 SUPRA 
supra mp8 3.5 plug







 QABLES 
www.qables.com
3.5 threaded mini jack







 YARBO AUDIOPHILE 
www.yarboaudiophile.com/
3.5i stereo plug











 VIABLUE AUDIO
http://www.viablue.de/de/






 CRYO-PARTS
cryo-parts 3.5 custom mini plug







 SONICWAVE


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## gore.rubicon

why not expand it to different plug types =D


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## thedips

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gore.rubicon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_why not expand it to different plug types =D_

 


 ha! simply because i just have no idea where to begin with the "other types" there are literally so many.... however... when it comes to these little 3.5s it seems like i see the same 2 or 3....id love to see more variety such as other more "popular" connectors..


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## ThePredator

The black nickel plated switchcrafts are not worth their price. I just built a cable with one and the plug is slightly too short, the nickel plating looks cheap, and the plastic rings are very cheap. Definitely not worth the $7 on mouser.


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## Juaquin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *gore.rubicon* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_why not expand it to different plug types =D_

 

The idea is to focus on one plug. A thread with all plugs would be huge, hard to navigate, and therefore not all that useful. This keeps it concise, I think.

 Now if only we could find a supplier for the PAILICCS plug.


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## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ThePredator* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The black nickel plated switchcrafts are not worth their price. I just build a cable with one and the plug is slightly too short, the nickel plating looks cheap, and the plastic rings are very cheap. Definitely not worth the $7 on mouser._

 

It worths every penny @$5 from Markertek to me.


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## FallenAngel

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Lil' Knight* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It worths every penny @$5 from Markertek to me._

 

Worth every penny @ $3.89 from AudioAdapter. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best prices I've found for Neutrik and SwitchCraft connectors. They don't have much else, but for connectors, that's where I always go.


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## thedips

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FallenAngel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Worth every penny @ $3.89 from AudioAdapter. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best prices I've found for Neutrik and SwitchCraft connectors. They don't have much else, but for connectors, that's where I always go._

 

thank for this... great price for sure!


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## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FallenAngel* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Worth every penny @ $3.89 from AudioAdapter. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best prices I've found for Neutrik and SwitchCraft connectors. They don't have much else, but for connectors, that's where I always go._

 

That's a very good source but I still prefer Markertek because they offer a variety of plugs and cables. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Will save more, I think.


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## Good Times

XLO and Pail ones look fantastic


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## labrat

Delete


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## AudioCats

Canare F11 Mini Plug at Markertek.com

 canare plugs are not that bad either. But they are even bigger than the switchcrafts.


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## Juaquin

I like the Neutrik right angles more than the switchcraft - the end of the plug is tapered so it fits into my iPhone jack while the case is still on.


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## -=Germania=-

Redco.com has the best prices I have seen on Mini plugs and they have bulk cable at cheap prices to suite many applications. If you are looking to do a cheap Mogami recable, this is the place to get everything in a single cheap order.


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## Mandrakespain

I am looking for a 1/4 to 1/8 ANGLED adaptor, but I have not found one yet, any ideas?

 Cheers


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## pdupiano

Mandrakespain, try making an adapter using a right angled neutrik and a female 1/4"th plug. dont forget to include 8" of cable in between.


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## bjarnetv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Canare F11 Mini Plug at Markertek.com

 canare plugs are not that bad either. But they are even bigger than the switchcrafts._

 

are you kidding? i have some canare f12s and they suck! 
 no holes for the cables to be solder to, only small taps, making them really fragile to bumps and shocks.
 i have resoldered mine so many times it has almost given me vietnam flashbacks.

 just bought some heavy duty 1/4 female neutrik jacks though, and they were so well thought out it almost made me cry


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## thedips

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_are you kidding? i have some canare f12s and they suck! 
 no holes for the cables to be solder to, only small taps, making them really fragile to bumps and shocks.
 i have resoldered mine so many times it has almost given me vietnam flashbacks.

 just bought some heavy duty 1/4 female neutrik jacks though, and they were so well thought out it almost made me cry 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

anyone have anypics of canare f12 innards? or any other 3.5mm 1/8"in plug innards this would be the place to put it...

 edit.... looks like the calrad heavy duty that i have is a better canare f12.... here are some pics..











 another calrad series 30 plug....


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## aamefford

Ultrasone compatible threaded mini plugs are available at Quables:

Qables | High Quality Custom Made Qables

 But are pretty steep at $6.28 each, without an external barrel. You have to buy a Neutrik barrel or use heatshrink.

 I'd love to find a source for a complete plug, and even better at a better price.


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## Ishcabible

Can anyone find a purchasing link for the Supra MP8? I want to use them when I recable my headphones. I found websites with them, but they don't have pricing. Thanks!


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## ThePredator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_are you kidding? i have some canare f12s and they suck! 
 no holes for the cables to be solder to, only small taps, making them really fragile to bumps and shocks.
 i have resoldered mine so many times it has almost given me vietnam flashbacks.

 just bought some heavy duty 1/4 female neutrik jacks though, and they were so well thought out it almost made me cry 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I completely agree, I have yet to have any trouble with even the cheapest Neutrik jacks/plugs (except for the nickel plated rca plugs not being colored and not having any red heatshrink on hand).


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## BoxOPwn

Canare F12 pics.


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## thedips

wow the supras look great! i wonder how the overall quality is of that plug...?


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## Mandrakespain

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *pdupiano* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mandrakespain, try making an adapter using a right angled neutrik and a female 1/4"th plug. dont forget to include 8" of cable in between._

 

Thanks for the tip!


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## speedingredline

very good info, just what I was looking for. Now if I could a find a topic like this that covered wire I would be in good shape.


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## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *speedingredline* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_very good info, just what I was looking for. Now if I could a find a topic like this that covered wire I would be in good shape._

 

ummm do you realize how many thousands of different wires there are?? the task of putting together that thread would be HUGE and plus one piece of bare silver or copper wire or even teflon covered wire looks like another. only the brand name ones with recognizable sleeving are easier do differentiate


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## luumage

nvm


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## Peyotero

Yeah I'm having some problems with Neutrik/Rean aswell. Loose jack, channel cut off when moved etc...


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## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *luumage* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've just done a recable on my ES7's, and I used a Neutrik 3.5mm plug. For some reason, the plug started to feel loose, then all of a sudden the plug just kept losing contact with the jack. Is it because I put too much strain on the plug due to my recable? (I used Mogami 2534 cable).

 I purchased another neutrik plug to replace it, and yet I am still having the same problem. Are there any 3.5mm plugs that fit VERY tightly?_

 

yep; the neutrik is quite a loose fitting mini, the only thing it has going for it IMO is its small size. combine that with a thickish cable and you have a recipe for loosened jacks. have you got techflex on the mogami too?? because that would be a reasonably thick and stiff cable. if you are going to use mogami for HP's probably better using the mini-quad or using a switchcraft mini of course, but there is a chance that the switchcraft would just loosen the jack further if its stiff quite stiff


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## Headphile808

XLO HT is My favorite, also don't forget the Yarbo iT3.5i.
 Aloha
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Headphile808


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## EFN

I am digging the Calrad RAs. Anybody know where to buy them online? Paupal preffered.

 The Supras are cool too


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## Pars

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *EFN* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I am digging the Calrad RAs. Anybody know where to buy them online? Paupal preffered.

 The Supras are cool too_

 

I've never bought any (tempted), but here is Calrad's list of distributors:
Calrad's Distributors
 People on head-fi have bought from Santa Cruz Electronics (probably the 319F or 309F (can't remember number) inline mini females), and I believe Westlake. Both have online ordering, but probably not Paypal.


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## direcow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Headphile808* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_XLO HT is My favorite, also don't forget the Yarbo iT3.5i.
 Aloha
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Headphile808_

 

Any english speaking site to order the Yarbos? Thanks!


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## Headphile808

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *direcow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any english speaking site to order the Yarbos? Thanks!_

 

None that I know of, still trying to get My hands on some.
 Aloha
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Headphile808


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## thedips

yea the yarbos look great! too bad they dont have a full set of both mono and stero... seems like i just see stereo yarbo plugs.....


 and to respond to a previous post.. i thought about a wire thread.. but then that person was right... there isnt really much difference than brand and marketing hype and sleeving... so it wouldnt be as helpful and with so many different types and gauges it would just be insane....


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## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_are you kidding? i have some canare f12s and they suck! 
 no holes for the cables to be solder to, only small taps, making them really fragile to bumps and shocks.
 i have resoldered mine so many times it has almost given me vietnam flashbacks.

 just bought some heavy duty 1/4 female neutrik jacks though, and they were so well thought out it almost made me cry 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 To me the solder tabbs in a Canare plug mean high quality. Solid brass underneith. 

 You count on good soldering to hold the wire, and use the strain-relief to prevent any pressure on the solder joints. Yes the strain-relief is there for a reason 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 a 1/4" female Neutrik? you mean that hand-grenade looking thingey with a red locking tab? I agree it is built like a tank, probably use the exact same alloy as in a Bradley.


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## AudioCats

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thedips* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_anyone have anypics of canare f12 innards? or any other 3.5mm 1/8"in plug innards this would be the place to put it...

 edit.... looks like the calrad heavy duty that i have is a better canare f12.... here are some pics..










_

 


 That Calrad looks exactly like a TecNec, totally...... well, I don't have anything nice to say, might as well don't say it.


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## bjarnetv

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AudioCats* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_To me the solder tabbs in a Canare plug mean high quality. Solid brass underneith. 

 You count on good soldering to hold the wire, and use the strain-relief to prevent any pressure on the solder joints. Yes the strain-relief is there for a reason 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 a 1/4" female Neutrik? you mean that hand-grenade looking thingey with a red locking tab? I agree it is built like a tank, probably use the exact same alloy as in a Bradley._

 

then i guess its my solder that sucks, because every time i accidentally drop the cable on the floor, one of the solder joints break off 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and yes, the neutrik plug is truly built like a tank, and could easily be used to beat wild animals into submission.


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## Bonthouse

Can anyone help me to get some plugs from AudioAdapter.com? I've been mailing them about international orders, but they don't seem to respond


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## boomy3555

I've been searching for the longest time for a solid 3..5 male to male adapter so I made one out of two Paliccs.
 Does anyone know where I can find something like this already made


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## jbusuego

I get my stuff from Dale Pro Audio - Broadcast & Field Audio, Live Sound + Install, Recording & Professional Parts, most of the items ships for free.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


Neutrik NYS231 3.5mm Stereo Male Phone Connector: NEUT-NYS231 Dale Pro Audio


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## Kitarist

Does anyone know any EBAY sellers for these adaptors. Please post links if you do!!!

 Thanks!!!


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## boomy3555

I've recently benn admonished for posting eBay links as is can cause bidding wars. I suppose, that would not be problem with multiple stock eBay sellers but still, Be careful. Mostly eBay sellers sell generic DIY cables and connectors.


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## Juaquin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been searching for the longest time for a solid 3..5 male to male adapter so I made one out of two Paliccs.




_

 

Where did you find the Paliccs? We've been looking for a source.


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## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Juaquin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Where did you find the Paliccs? We've been looking for a source._

 

I traded a pair of Ultimate Ears Cables with a guy in Singapore. Apparently, they can just go down to Jaben or other electronics dealers in the area and buy them off the shelf. I have an email into Jaben asking about being a source but Uncle has not responded. ( He does take a while, usually)


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## beltway

Any chance you could post some detail pics of the Paillics insides?


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## Bonthouse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *beltway* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any chance you could post some detail pics of the Paillics insides? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

And.. how would that be useful? You'd just see a ground, left and right signal lead


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## Juaquin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bonthouse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_And.. how would that be useful? You'd just see a ground, left and right signal lead
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Different 3.5mm have different ways of connecting to the wires. It may not be the most useful of information, but it certainly has it's place in this thread (read the last couple pages), so I'm not sure what the problem is.


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## Juaquin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I traded a pair of Ultimate Ears Cables with a guy in Singapore. Apparently, they can just go down to Jaben or other electronics dealers in the area and buy them off the shelf. I have an email into Jaben asking about being a source but Uncle has not responded. ( He does take a while, usually)_

 

Let us know. If nothing else, I'd be interesting in buying a dozen or two in a group buy.


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## boomy3555

Here's a couple of pics of the Paliccs inside and the end of the Paliccs as well The other 3.5 in the foreground with the Palics is the threaded one from Qables that is for the Ultrasones cable. As you can see, they are very similar in solder pattern. I've already melted three of the threaded 3.5's trying to do a custom Ultrasone cable and they have no casing or stress relief. I think that they were manufactured strictly to be encased in injection molded plastic or rubber
















 Edit: Thepalics is about the largest opening of the 3.5's which is good for bigger guage cables


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## direcow

There's a shop in the basement of Sim Lim Tower in Singapore which sells the Pailiaccs. You could always try to get someone to help you buy it if you can't find it online.


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## boomy3555

Still no response form Uncle Wislon at Jaben. Maybe if some of you others email him with interest, he may think about stocking up maybe doing a group order.


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## KingStyles

Im looking for a 3.5mm 4 pole to a dual 3.5 female stero adaptor/splitter/y


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## Juaquin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Still no response form Uncle Wislon at Jaben. Maybe if some of you others email him with interest, he may think about stocking up maybe doing a group order._

 

PM me his email and I'll give it a shot.


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## thedips

if you guys make an order please let me know as i too would like to stock some of these plugs... do they have both mono and stereo?


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## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thedips* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_if you guys make an order please let me know as i too would like to stock some of these plugs... do they have both mono and stereo?_

 

Pailiccs makes only a 3.5 stereo and a 6.3 mono plug. I checked when I was trading the UE cable for a dozen of them.


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## Juaquin

So I was lucky enough to receive a Pailicc from a benefactor who will remain nameless (unless he would like otherwise) to avoid people begging him for plugs. The opening diameter is sufficient for W2893 plus some techflex or nylon sleeve. It is one sharp looking plug. I've constructed an LOD with it and I'll get some pics of the internals up shortly.


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## boomy3555

Thanks Juaquin, but I don't have extras left anyway so until we can bulk order some we're out of luck.(not trying to hijack the thread but I thought this would be a good question to ask) I was wondering if you had any pointers on soldering the dock connector terminals? I've tried removing the pins first, then soldering and heat shrink, but then I just can't seem to get the pins to stay back in place once I put the connector back together. Is there some sort of push on device similar to a telephone terminal block tool, that pushes the wire onto the pin instead of soldering.


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## Fungi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *bjarnetv* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_then i guess its my solder that sucks, because every time i accidentally drop the cable on the floor, one of the solder joints break off 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and yes, the neutrik plug is truly built like a tank, and could easily be used to beat wild animals into submission._

 

Sounds like a cold solder joint. When you solder, be sure both the connector and wire are hot enough that the solder flows on both. If the solder "leaks" onto the connector side it's hot enough (like when the wire gets hot enough the solder gets sucked into it). It's easy to tell afterwards if you can yank the wire off; a good solder joint is mechanically sound and will stay stuck.


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## boomy3555

That's where the "Melting" takes place. it's hard to get just the right temp to get the solder to flow without melting the plastic insualtion seperating the connectors.n Especially when the surface is the size of a Gnat.


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## Juaquin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I was wondering if you had any pointers on soldering the dock connector terminals? I've tried removing the pins first, then soldering and heat shrink, but then I just can't seem to get the pins to stay back in place once I put the connector back together. Is there some sort of push on device similar to a telephone terminal block tool, that pushes the wire onto the pin instead of soldering._

 

There's no device I know of, unfortunately. What I do is pull out all the pins I don't need, then bend the remaining pins away or toward each other as needed (for instance, 11 & 15 are tied, so I bend then most of the way together, while I bend 2 & 4 away from each other) - do this carefully as the pins seem pretty brittle and I've had some break. Then I use a fairly small tip on my iron and solder the wires/cable to the pins while they are still in the connector. 

 It's a pain, and sometimes the pins will pull out while I'm working on the other end of the cable, which brings me to the next point - once you've got the pins soldered to the wires, put a dab of hot glue on them. First, this keeps them insulated from each other, and second, it offers a bit of strain relief and keeps them from breaking while you're working on the rest of the cable. Then put on techflex or heatshrink, hot glue the inside of the connector (if needed), close it up, and finish the other end.


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## boomy3555

Thanks


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## Good Times

I had the same issue Boomy and then went to the same technique as Juaquin. I think that once you 'break the seal' with the pins, they just don't quite seat as securely again.


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## boomy3555

An Ipod doc plug with only 2,3,4 pins and regular solder connections would be great.


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## beltway

boomy3555: Thanks for posting the Paillics plug photos (and the Qables too - good for reference).

 The Paillics insides look almost exactly like the SonicWave/Impact Acoustics plugs I bought (which are also similar to the higher-end XLO plugs according to an owner). 

 I posted detail pics of the SonicWave/Impact Acoustics 3.5mm plug in another thread about the Paillics plugs, for anybody interested:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/pailiccs-3-5mm-plug-371151/

 The only difference I can see is that unique curved/rounded cover. The SonicWave cover is more of a 'normal' cylinder shape, gloss black with a gold plated ring at the cable inlet. 

 The other thread about the Paillics plugs didn't turn up any sources, so I picked up a 10 pack of the SonicWave 3.5mm from ProductShipToday.com for about $23.50 - anybody know how much the Paillics are?

 The tight contact spacing and the lack of holes for the wires makes these more challenging to get right, especially for those new to soldering or getting by with cheap irons. A temp-controlled iron is a big help toward a solid connection. The benefit of this style is that the wires are soldered direct to the ends of the tip and ring connectors.

 The plugs with holes and extended solder tabs are a lot easier to deal with but it looks like they are usually riveted to the contacts, so technically that puts another connection in the signal chain.

 The ground/strain relief in all 3.5mm plugs I've seen is only riveted or crimped to the plug body, but it's easy to solder between the ground tab and plug body (avoid the cover threads) before doing any other soldering on the plug just in case.

 I don't know of any 3.5mm plug bodies that are made like high-end RCAs with a solid body machined out for the ground connection. Can't think of any reason why they couldn't be made like that and they would probably sell great, at least here!


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## boomy3555

Thanks for the link. I got 12 Pailiccs 3.5's for the around 50.00 USD ( I traded a set of UE cables to a guy in singapore) The pailiccs outer shell is also solid brass and as such contributes to the ground. I found out when I dremeled the other end for my 3.5 to 3.5 shorty. One trick Hans at Qables suggested also is to rough up the shiny brass surfaces with emory cloth to help the solder flow.


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## Mayzei

Found a new type, look awesome and very cheap to me. Available in both stereo and mono, screened.

http://i5.ebayimg.com/08/i/001/02/e6/379b_1.JPG

 A 6.16mm internal diameter! Awesome.

 I've got some ordered, will post some pictures once they have arrived, i got 4 for something stupid like £5, not expecting much. 

 xx


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## thedips

looks somewhat similar to poprad/calrad versions.. more pics plz when u get them in.... 

 and im just a sucker for anything knurled


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## boomy3555

Radio Shack has a "Gold Series" that is very similar. It's just that Radio Shack his gotten a bad rep as having inerior products. They're getting better though. And yes, those are screw terminals ona 3.5mm (1/8")


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## boomy3555

eBay Seller: awwan: Electronics items on eBay.com

 Found a good resource for the Pailiccs 3.5. I just bought 50 and I wrote him that there may be others wanting to buy some.


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## v3nom

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Radio Shack has a "Gold Series" that is very similar. It's just that Radio Shack his gotten a bad rep as having inerior products. They're getting better though. And yes, those are screw terminals ona 3.5mm (1/8")






_

 

I saw those at RadioShak today but they were charging 3 bux for 1!!


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## boomy3555

All of the quality 3.5's will run you somewhere around 3 bucks. I have found the Neutriks for 2 something once but only in bulk.


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## beltway

I've seen a bunch of 1/4" plugs (electric guitar cables) with screws, but those RS ones are the only minis with screw terminals I've ever seen. I thought I bought at least one of every audio plug RS sells, but they are new to me. Cool find.

 As far as price, it's a great deal especially if someone is semi-interested in audio/cables/DIY but has limited funds, doesn't have a soldering iron/station and doesn't want to buy a lot of DIY stuff with a big question mark over their head.

 Even better if you have some spare CAT5/5e/6 from a LAN laying around or 3 strands (or 6 doubled up) of small gauge insulated wire for a braid. All you would need after that is to get the wires stripped and cut to the right length. And a small screwdriver...

 After making one decent 3.5mm interconnect with those RS plugs for $6 or so, you should know if your ears can appreciate better cables and if DIY is for you. That's the cheapest and easiest first step into DIY 3.5mm cables I can think of.

 As mentioned, the price is right so it wouldn't be a bad idea to keep a couple around for quick and easy repairs or even 'cable rolling'.


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## Beachcoma

Does anyone know of any GOOD 2.5mm (1/16") stereo jacks? All I ever find are really bad no-name junk 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


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## boomy3555

I've been getting alot of my connectors from this place lately
TecNec AC122 2.5mm Stereo Sub-Mini Plug Connector at Markertek.com


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## franciscojose

viablue have this.....
ViaBlue T6s Klinkenstecker 3,5mm Stereo - die nadel - Ihr Onlineshop fuer HiFi-Zubehoer und mehr


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## boomy3555

Wow those are incredible but also very expensive. 9.80 EU = 12.65 USD . I suppose that in the overall cost of a good DIY IC, 12 bucks isn't too bad.


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## selkin

Hi!
 What do you think which online store would be good to buy a 3.5jack for my dad's faulty Bose haedphone?


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## labrat

Delete


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## selkin

I'm living a bit far from shops and stores, so probably the fuel would cost more than the postage. and this way I'd have to spend my time with driving etc.
 I just click on buy, and sit back


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## boomy3555

parts express

Parts Express:*Neutrik NYS231 3.5mm Stereo Plug Nickel


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## selkin

oh, I wanted to write UK. sorry for that. the shop you linked probably ships to the UK as well anyway


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## v3nom

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_parts express

Parts Express:*Neutrik NYS231 3.5mm Stereo Plug Nickel_

 

here is the same connector but for only $00.80 with free shipping:
Neutrik NYS231 3.5mm Stereo Male Phone Connector: NEUT-NYS231 Dale Pro Audio


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## Bonthouse

Oh how I envy you.

 You vs Us

 Talking about unfair.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: Fixed it


----------



## boomy3555

YOU is Mono and out of stock. But we get the picture. Sometimes even international shipping can save you money if you can find what you want. The only place I could find my little 3.5 threaded plugs was Qables so I ended up buying 6 of them but man, with shipping it came out to like 11.00 each

Neutrik NTP3RC 3.5mm TRS Right Angled Audio Connector - Black Plastic/Nickel: NEUT-NTP3RC Dale Pro Audio


----------



## LingLing1337

I think that the Pailiccs plus are awesome, but where can you buy them?


----------



## Good Times

Linkage earlier in this thread I think, otherwise check out the Pailiccs thread for the link (it's an ebay seller in HK).


----------



## boomy3555

ebay member "awwan". He makes LOD's and flat wire 3.5 to 3.5 IC's. He sold 50 to me for 3.50/ea. +20.00 EMS shipping. They should get here tomorrow. I've warned him that others may be hitting him up for some so go for it. He dosn't have a listing for them. You have to email him and he'll send you a PayPal invoice for the total

eBay Seller: awwan: Electronics items on eBay.com


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Beachcoma* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone know of any GOOD 2.5mm (1/16") stereo jacks? All I ever find are really bad no-name junk 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




._

 

Found a little better quality but still can't find gold.

Comprehensive - Stereo 2.5mm Sub-Mini Plug with Spring #SMP-S


----------



## v3nom

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Found a little better quality but still can't find gold.

Comprehensive - Stereo 2.5mm Sub-Mini Plug with Spring #SMP-S_

 

Isn't gold plated just for corrosion?


----------



## boomy3555

Nickel and brass tarnish reducing the contact between the surfaces so partialy yes. One could also argue that the high atomic density of gold would conduct the audio signal differently similar to the difference bewteen silver and copper wires


----------



## Xan7hos

Great thread, any idea where to find the XLO HT 3.5?


----------



## boomy3555

XLO Electric


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Xan7hos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great thread, any idea where to find the XLO HT 3.5?_

 

Michael Percy Audio Ordering Information


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Michael Percy Audio Ordering Information_

 

In the downloadable catalog.


----------



## Good Times

Qusp, have you had any orders with him recently? I know you keep endorsing him and there's a few items I'd like from Michael, but 3.5 weeks later I'm yet to receive an email reply to his enquiry..... (just wondered if you'd had contact in the past month or so).


----------



## Xan7hos

thanks for the Percy Audio heads up


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Qusp, have you had any orders with him recently? I know you keep endorsing him and there's a few items I'd like from Michael, but 3.5 weeks later I'm yet to receive an email reply to his enquiry..... (just wondered if you'd had contact in the past month or so)._

 

which email are you using?? i'm in the middle of an order with him and yeah I only just received one last week for some 28AWG cardas silver in cotton, BG's, vishay R's and heaps of quality heatshrink; enough to last me quite some time. the shrink he has isnt cheap, but its awesome and doesnt have the print on it. but I must admit I had a bit of trouble getting through the first time and from then on it was all good as my order was of a decent size. I do remember that one email I used I had trouble with and ended up using a different one. I can maybe add your order to mine, since we are both in OZ. PM me with what you want if you are keen


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_In the downloadable catalog._

 

yes $6.95USD each


----------



## Beachcoma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been getting alot of my connectors from this place lately
TecNec AC122 2.5mm Stereo Sub-Mini Plug Connector at Markertek.com_

 

Awesome, now all I need is a european supplier, as I only need one and I'm not going to spend 20x the item price for shipping


----------



## boomy3555

I spent alot of time Googling back when I first started doing DIY's and there was a place in the UK that I could not get to ship to me. They had these cool light metalic blue 3.5mm high end plugs but they would just not do it. I'll check the favorites in all of my computers and see if I can find it.


----------



## boomy3555

Cableuniverse.com in the Uk but then VAT get's so confusing
AV Plugs and Sockets*::*Audio Leads & Accessories*::*Cable Universe

 And Qables is in the Netherlands


----------



## Beachcoma

Thanks Boomy, neither Cableuniverse nor Qables stock 2.5mm plugs. However, your remark about the UK an VAT got me thinking and I checked Maplin. They have the reasonable quality 2.5mm plugs mentioned earlier, so I'll order them


----------



## boomy3555

Can you not use a good 2.5 to 3.5 adapter? Some of them have a very small 2.5 of the end for the smaller jacks like the iphone.


----------



## Beachcoma

no, sadly its not for headphones... its for a digital interlink to connect my xbox to my amp. I use a monster component cable, and to get a digital signal out they designed it around a 2.5mm plug. That way, they get to sell their own overpriced junk digital cable.


----------



## boomy3555

I found out through trial and error that you can use a larger gauge cable on the Neutriks 3.5mm rt angle if you use a regular 3.5 neutriks cover to screw onto the threads of the angle peice instead of the stock one that has the tiny rubber end. The threads are 8mm 1.0 and are the same. You can also gain about 2mm in diameter if you dremel out the end opening a bit.


----------



## Good Times

I soldered my first Pailiccs plug last night. Far out, not as easy as the Neutriks hey! Sorry don't have pics now, but the soldering pins for L and R are just entensions of the plug (so on a 'pole'). Then the ground is underneath, and really hard to access.

 Will post pics tonight. Any tips from those with experience? They look nice and I love the massive exit size, but not sure it's worth the trouble.....

 Edit - pic of internals are on Page 4 of this thread. Cheers.


----------



## boomy3555

I do the rt, then left so I can work my way out. Then I do the ground last. Hans from Qables has suggested roughing up the shiny surface a bit to help the solder flow. I haven't tried soldering flux to see if the solder will flow more freely. it's mainly used for plumbing soldering to get the solder to flow into the jonts of the copper fittings but I don't know if it would be useful here. I just don't like walking the thin line between getting the solder to stick and melting the insulation. And getting the tip hot enough is hard sometimes because of the size that you're working with.


----------



## Good Times

Yeah I did the same. It worked out fine, just took me about twice the time to line up all the correct lengths, get the bend right for the ground so it slotted under nicely, all of that. Annoying, but I can see how the design is far more sound than those that have tabbed legs.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do the rt, then left so I can work my way out. Then I do the ground last. Hans from Qables has suggested roughing up the shiny surface a bit to help the solder flow. *I haven't tried soldering flux to see if the solder will flow more freely. it's mainly used for plumbing soldering to get the solder to flow into the jonts of the copper fittings but I don't know if it would be useful here*. I just don't like walking the thin line between getting the solder to stick and melting the insulation. And getting the tip hot enough is hard sometimes because of the size that you're working with._

 

incorrect; flux is used extensively in audio by those in the know and is IMO indispensable for SMD soldering or anything that requires a joint to be made quickly and effectively. cardas flux paste is awesome and it does help the solder to flow quite considerably. its also great for 'wetting' the solder again if you have used too much heat or for too long, avoiding a 'cold' joint. I use it with every _solder _joint that I make, highly recommended.

 also with the neutrik RA, I actually saw off the barrel, so there is nothing but the part with the thread left; this means you can use much larger wires than even the straight barrel will alow, still an interesting tip you have there, I hadent thought of that. but in general I find any of the barrels too long and often get in the way of other outputs in portable amps and buttons on DAPs, so I dont use it. for a while I didnt use one at all and just glued the two 'elbows together, using adhesive shrink for the strain relief.


----------



## Xan7hos

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *franciscojose* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_viablue have this.....
ViaBlue T6s Klinkenstecker 3,5mm Stereo - die nadel - Ihr Onlineshop fuer HiFi-Zubehoer und mehr_

 

god does this guy have a US dealer?


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_incorrect; flux is used extensively in audio by those in the know and is IMO indispensable for SMD soldering or anything that requires a joint to be made quickly and effectively. cardas flux paste is awesome and it does help the solder to flow quite considerably. its also great for 'wetting' the solder again if you have used too much heat or for too long, avoiding a 'cold' joint. I use it with every solder joint that I make, highly recommended.

 also with the neutrik RA, I actually saw off the barrel, so there is nothing but the part with the thread left; this means you can use much larger wires than even the straight barrel will alow, still an interesting tip you have there, I hadent thought of that. but in general I find any of the barrels too long and often get in the way of other outputs in portable amps and buttons on DAPs, so I dont use it. for a while I didnt use one at all and just glued the two 'elbows together, using adhesive shrink for the strain relief._

 

Thanks for the flux tip. I made a couple of 3.5 to 3.5 shorty male to male by dremeling and threading the open end for another 3.5 plug. I solder the rt and lt, but leave the neutral unsoldered as the brass body creates a common ground. I like to use the Pailiccs plug and body with a 8mm 1.0 Neutriks plug at the cable end of the Pailiccs. (They just look cooler) but the neutriks would be smaller overall


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the flux tip. I made a couple of 3.5 to 3.5 shorty male to male by dremeling and threading the open end for another 3.5 plug. I solder the rt and lt, but leave the neutral unsoldered as the brass body creates a common ground. I like to use the Pailiccs plug and body with a 8mm 1.0 Neutriks plug at the cable end of the Pailiccs. (They just look cooler) but the neutriks would be smaller overall_

 

wow, that may be compact, but i'm sure the audio performance is a bit shoddy. ground is supposed to be a better connection than signal not the other way around; so using what is probably a brass body at best is certainly not ideal.


----------



## boomy3555

The Pailiccs Body is solid brass so the threads of the Pailiccs and the threads of the Neutricks are solidly connected via the brass. I have made one or two with 30g silver wire for rt and lt signal and I have made OFC as well. I can def. hear a difference between the silver and copper but otherwise. I have no problems. There is a pic. earlier in this thread PAGE 3


----------



## v3nom

i got a few pailiccs plugs fs, just pm me


----------



## Good Times

I wanted to update everyone; I think I found an easy way to solder the Pailiccs. Instead of feeding the wired parallel to the terminal and then bending the wires and soldering, I started with the wires perpendicular to the terminals. Far easier to solder.

 Once done I then heated and bent the wires toward the clamp and folded them in. 

 A whole lot easier than my first attempt, I'm now liking these again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My third I'll probably try rounding the ends of the wires for more surface contact to the terminals.


----------



## boomy3555

I do it that way as well. I also grind a tiny tiny groove into the surface of each soldering point with my Dremel giving the wire a indentation to sit in.


----------



## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I do it that way as well. I also grind a tiny tiny groove into the surface of each soldering point with my Dremel giving the wire a indentation to sit in._

 

Probably how they designed it to be built, I just had no idea on the first one. The scratching up is a good suggestion too - although I haven't had any adhesion issues as yet....


----------



## thedips

Here are some photo's you could use for your 3.5mm plug thread in the DIY section
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	








http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...craftFront.jpg





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...hcraftBack.jpg

 Regards,

 Sam


----------



## boomy3555

Nice Switchcraft


----------



## Good Times

I haven't tried the switchcraft plugs yet, are you guys finding the black stays on well enough? I've seen a lot where it's worn back to brass in the textured section, yet looks fairly new......


----------



## boomy3555

I haven't tried switchcraft either. I just thought I recognized one in the Pic. I got a big bunch of Paillics and Neutriks to play with so it'll be while before I use those up.


----------



## boomy3555

I also found that although the RadioShack sub mini 2.5mm plug has only a plastic housing, the plug it'self is very high grade similar to the Paillics. It has that same straight pin type soldering points without the holes. I'll Get some Pics up soon.


----------



## dazzer1975

Oehlbach Klinkenstecker 3.5 mm Stereo 1 StÃ¼ck ! 4014 su eBay.it Stecker Buchsen, ZubehÃ¶r, Audio Hi-Fi


----------



## ThePredator

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *thedips* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Here are some photo's you could use for your 3.5mm plug thread in the DIY section
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...craftFront.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...hcraftBack.jpg

 Regards,

 Sam_

 

It looks like they make the gold contacts and rings of a much higher quality than the with nickel plated version.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't tried the switchcraft plugs yet, are you guys finding the black stays on well enough? I've seen a lot where it's worn back to brass in the textured section, yet looks fairly new......_

 

I find it stays on fine. in fact its the most rugged connector that I have used so far, not my favorite, but def the most rugged. it sits behind XLO as my favorite so far. gonna get a few more of these 'exotics' to try out as well in the coming weeks

 especially keen on trying this 
ViaBlue T6s Klinkenstecker 3,5mm Stereo - die nadel - Ihr Onlineshop fuer HiFi-Zubehoer und mehr

 the viablue or whatever its called looks sweet and well built, but OMG at teh price


----------



## Good Times

They look phenomenal, just wish I could see the internal pics. You think they're designed for just screw-in connection? Or are the grub screws just so secure the barrel?


----------



## scootermafia

I think the grub screws hold on the barrel, but I could be wrong. I doubt it's a crimp n screw connector, those are pretty rare. They could even just be superficial, for looks. Guess we'll never know.

 The european hifi diy market is amazing...so many awesome brands - Oehlbach, Viablue, Yarbo...and we can't have a piece without spending a fortune on shipping. Someone should import a ton of these and resell them.


----------



## direcow

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I haven't tried the switchcraft plugs yet, are you guys finding the black stays on well enough? I've seen a lot where it's worn back to brass in the textured section, yet looks fairly new......_

 

My black on the switchcraft got worn out only when I used pliers to open it... so er... you have to be quite rough with it. But yes, it is just a layer of paint.


----------



## franciscojose

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scootermafia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the grub screws hold on the barrel, but I could be wrong. I doubt it's a crimp n screw connector, those are pretty rare. They could even just be superficial, for looks. Guess we'll never know.

 The european hifi diy market is amazing...so many awesome brands - Oehlbach, Viablue, Yarbo...and we can't have a piece without spending a fortune on shipping. Someone should import a ton of these and resell them._

 


 Yes you don't wrong the screws are one for the cable fix( there is an diameter reductor) and the other is to crimp the connector at the plug's body. One of these day i put one of these plugs under the sca( pics so near are diffuclt with my camera) and i send you


----------



## boomy3555

If I knew any german I would have bought a cuople already just to try them and get some detailed PICS. Any one who knows german, ( I'm not even sure it's german) who can tell me if the site has a translator button or an english button to link on? The Viablue site doesn't even list 3.5's

http://www.viablue.de/com/index.shtml


 I found a site with english, but the plugs are 15.00 USD (wich is OK) but shipping is 25.00 USD to US so I don't think I'm not THAT curious

http://www.hifi-phono-house.com/Stec...eck--8367.html


----------



## dazzer1975

also has an ebay site but is a touch more expensive, and as an aside, sells via blue optical cable, viablue toslink and via blue mini terminations for those interested in making your own optical cables. Will need a cleave tool also though.


----------



## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_If I knew any german I would have bought a cuople already just to try them and get some detailed PICS. Any one who knows german, ( I'm not even sure it's german) who can tell me if the site has a translator button or an english button to link on? The Viablue site doesn't even list 3.5's

ViaBlue™ Official Website
_

 

Google translate dude (just type "translate" into Google and it will be the first results).


----------



## boomy3555

How ignorant do I feel.??


----------



## boomy3555

I went to the Hi-Fi phone house and ordered 4 of the ViaBlue 3.5mm stereo plugs with a grand total of 84.00 USD ( with exchange rate and shipping)Via Paypal but I have not recieved the customary 
 PayPal confirmation email so maybe it didn't work.
 If they do come I'll be sure to get up some Pics.


----------



## Hayduke

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I went to the Hi-Fi phone house and ordered 4 of the ViaBlue 3.5mm stereo plugs with a grand total of 84.00 USD ( with exchange rate and shipping)Via Paypal but I have not recieved the customary 
 PayPal confirmation email so maybe it didn't work.
 If they do come I'll be sure to get up some Pics._

 

OMG $21 US each?


----------



## Good Times

Pricey, but I don't think we've seen anything as nice as these. We're trying to source something locally so we can try them out. Would love internal pics once you get them man. 

 I was reading up on their RCA plugs (which have internal pics) and if they're similar, then will be screw type for cables but can also be soldered of course. Which is fine. 

 Which leads me to another question. If you have a screw type plug but want to solder, should you simply solder as per normal and then position the screw, or screw it down first to keep it tight and then solder? I imagine the latter would be hard because there's more to heat up - so would probably need a high temp iron.....?


----------



## dazzer1975

viablue say to solder then use the grub screw as strain relief


----------



## boomy3555

I solder because I have to. It's not a favorite of mine and if I can just insert the wire and screw down the clamp, Much Better. I don't they're are contact issues with clamp down vs solder if you do it right. ( a dab of di-electric sylicone would probably be in order to fill any airgaps)


----------



## qusp

soldering will always be a better connection though; no matter how well you clamp it will always be inferior IMO.* so clamp and solder is the way to go.* wow its really great that they have a cable screw too. they have designed i like a highly quality RCA connector.they may be expensive, but I'm gonna have to try them out. even if its just for my own stuff. 

 so Goodtimes. we gotta do it. i'm sorted for $$ so lets go. I also would like to get some gear for making optical cables since I just got the D10 and about to finish the gamma1. just ordered some cables from sysconcept, but didnt enjoy th process of handing over control and $$ to someone else to make my cables for me. so have to remedy that ASAP

 I should clarify that; what I mean is do both, but obviously you would solder and then clamp 

 Good Times:
 Sure man; lets do it. i'll have a look and see what their optical supplies are worth. where were you trying for aussie supply of viablue?? i'll try them tomorrow too, but if they didnt answer all day today then the weekend is probably asking a bit much. maybe its a home operation and he guy was just out or at wiork all day. You did leave a number didnt you?? did they have a price n them??


----------



## dazzer1975

I was just about to order and they wanted to charge 15 euros for a 3kg parcel. Fair enough you might think, except there own shipping rates state 2.95 for upto 1kg.

 I had only ordered 3 terminations. Those things must be huge to weigh a kilo each lol


----------



## Good Times

Qusp, I've emailed and phoned, just get the answering maching at the Oz place. And that's all day! Poor performance. Let's order from Germany. I'll PM you and get this order done - it should arrive in the UK by Wednesday then about 6 days to get to me. I'll PM you tonight in any case. 

 If any other Aussies want some Via Blue goodies please PM me today.


----------



## franciscojose

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *franciscojose* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Yes you don't wrong the screws are one for the cable fix( there is an diameter reductor) and the other is to crimp the connector at the plug's body. One of these day i put one of these plugs under the sca( pics so near are diffuclt with my camera) and i send you_

 

I promises...... and now the viablue pic

http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/292...5mmviablue.jpg


----------



## dazzer1975

they look solidly built, albeit a bit of a bitch to solder perhaps, certainly look well made enough to warrant a high price and I would use a bit of thread lock on the grub screw too to prevent them working loose over time. 

 I would still like to see a furutech 3.5mm mini though.


----------



## franciscojose

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *franciscojose* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I promises...... and now the viablue pic

http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/292...5mmviablue.jpg_

 

viablue is here


----------



## scootermafia

That plug is insanely high quality. I'd buy, but the shipping costs are brutal.


----------



## thedips

damn me likey too.. but ouch on the price... sheesh... plug-fi is killing my pockets!


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *franciscojose* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I promises...... and now the viablue pic

http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/292...5mmviablue.jpg_

 

Nice pictures, did you take them?

 Peace, 

 Lee


----------



## scootermafia

Wonder how big of a group buy we'd have to do to pro rate that $50USD shipping charge. Seriously, I'll give a big hug to whoever can find these plugs shipped to the US for the low. I've contacted all the north america dealers, combed all the german sites, they all want brutal shipping charges. How the hell can Hong Kong sellers post small packages to the US for like $2 or 3 but these clowns can't do the same?? I don't want DHL pound me in the ass shipping that comes like in 2 days, I just want the package in like 2 weeks or something.


----------



## SACD-Man

You can find that beauty on CryoParts site....

CryoParts Mini Plugs

 VERY VERY VERY nice connector...


----------



## franciscojose

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *guitarplayer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nice pictures, did you take them?

 Peace, 

 Lee_

 

My camera is not good for close ups and so i use my epson scan, just a little bit of Blu tac removed with photoshop.


----------



## franciscojose

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *franciscojose* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_viablue have this.....
ViaBlue T6s Klinkenstecker 3,5mm Stereo - die nadel - Ihr Onlineshop fuer HiFi-Zubehoer und mehr_

 

I am happy for the ovation about my viablue suggestion,and for the possibility to find an amercian dealers for this, thanks af Guitarplayer and Cryo Parts


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *franciscojose* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My camera is not good for close ups and so i use my epson scan, just a little bit of Blu tac removed with photoshop._

 

Great job. I'll send you a PM.

 Peace, 

 Lee


----------



## scootermafia

AV Outlet Home Theater Products Theater Seats, Roller Shades, Projection Screens, Popcorn Poppers and More

 I got them to add those jacks to their catalog. They're buying 4 pairs so act fast. They'll order more if it's a hit. I bought the first pair. $18 per pair and $6 shipping. They'll be backordered until they arrive from Germany, but then they'll ship.


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *franciscojose* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My camera is not good for close ups and so i use my epson scan, just a little bit of Blu tac removed with photoshop._

 

A public thank you for "franciscojose" for allowing me to use his image on my product page! 

 Peace, 

 Lee


----------



## Bonthouse

I like that second plug you're offering! It's got a high bling factor
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 But the new Viablue plug.. I don't like the looks and it's superbulky.


----------



## scootermafia

Didn't see the Cryoparts link until today...nice...got a couple US places offering them now! Sweet!


----------



## scootermafia

Going to make two LODs with mundorf silver/gold wire and carbon fiber sleeving and these plugs.


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bonthouse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like that second plug you're offering! It's got a high bling factor
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ha! That's exactly what I was going for! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seriously, I am fortunate to have a good working relationship with a great connector manufacturer who doesn't think my ideas are (totally) crazy. It is surprising how many manufacturers lose interest quickly when you request certain metals and plating...

 Peace, 

 Lee


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scootermafia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Didn't see the Cryoparts link until today...nice...got a couple US places offering them now! Sweet!_

 

I've been working with Via Blue off and on for a few years. They are really a great company to deal with. Their connector products are top notch.

 Lee


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *guitarplayer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I've been working with Via Blue off and on for a few years. They are really a great company to deal with. Their connector products are top notch.

 Lee_

 

so what is the plating on your new blingy mini?? and will you be offering it with a black casing as well??I saw it briefly the other day when checking out 'the wire copper' be expecting an email from me about that in the coming week. 


 here's a couple of pics of one i'm not sure you guys have. 

 Ultralink 2.0

 its basically an XLO mini with a shorter body and slightly less bulky. the termination is the same; as is the clamping/strain-relief. In fact I got it as a substitution when I was ordering some XLO 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I actually like it more. as its more compact. if only it wasnt plastered with a big logo (another reason I like the new cryoparts one; but so is XLO I guess, but at least XLO is a known brand. i'm sure these are from the same manufacturer.



















 cable exit is fairly large and can be drilled out to about 9mm

 in the background is a bag of 50 silver bullets


----------



## direcow

wow qusp... that looks great! Where'd you buy it from?


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_so what is the plating on your new blingy mini?? and will you be offering it with a black casing as well??I saw it briefly the other day when checking out 'the wire copper' be expecting an email from me about that in the coming week. 
_

 

Hi qusp, 

 Not sure on the black casing, I kind of like the pewter, it's different.

 The plating is gold over bronze, plated to my specifications as I am having these custom made. I should have them in stock next week.

 The XLO/Ultralink looks nice as well. 

 I'm going to stick with the Viablue (in stock) and my CryoParts (coming) mini's for now as two is enough to carry. 

 Peace, 

 Lee


----------



## scootermafia

I'm excited about the Cryoparts minis, any price info or pix yet? So hard to find a good mini with a massive cable entry....Although I did learn that if you dremel off the last 1-2mm on the neutrik NYS 3.5mm plugs it removes the part on the end that is extra thick (low diameter) and the diameter will then be the same on the threaded end as on the entry end all the way through...you can then fit in a pretty huge cable. Mmm.mm $1.20 each and so easy to solder. I killed a Pailiccs plug because it made a solder bridge somehow that I could not see or something was bridging the left and right, and when I desoldered it the whole thing just went downhill.


----------



## boomy3555

Pailiccs definitely takes some practice. I find that roughing up the shiny surface with emory cloth and some flux really helps. On another note The right angle Neutriks is usualy too smal for any larger gauge wire but if you dremel out the cable end of a regular straight Neutriks body, it can take a larger gauge and then it will screw onto the threads of the right angle plastic bend.


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *direcow* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_wow qusp... that looks great! Where'd you buy it from?_

 

het man; sorry I took this long to answer, I got them from percyaudio; but in all honesty after havbing used them now I wouldnt recommend them. they are very loose fitting in some jacks and actually pop out somehow; even when there is seemingly no pressure on them at all. I made a LOD for DIYMOD, with jena and kimber stranded silver (so not a cheap cable as I made it twin tribraid) I then set it in the perfect shape for my rig withmy hot air tool and it would still pop out, with absolutely no force pulling it out. so Lee I would stay away from them. pity because they had great potential; I actually sanded the logo off, so it looked like brushed alloy and it looks really sweet, really compact and was siumilar top the XLO which I really like.. so thats $40USD down the drain as I epoxied the cable up. may be able to salvage some wire, but will have to be for an exceedingly short cable.

 anyway; this week I recieved my order from cryoparts of the vialue minis among other things and they are really quite easy to use and well made. the strain relief system is quite good; if a little bit painful to use with a middle of the road thickness cable. 

 plus Lee was kind enough to send me one of his new minis to see what I thought; and put it this way; I ordered some more. nice job. not just blingy, but also solid and well designed; i'll post some pics in a couple days too busy at the moment.


 i'm not a huge fan of the huge gold stripe on the viablue, so I used black shrink for extra strain relief (which it actually needed too) and covered it all up but a thin hairline, so looks pretty tastefull now.and at first I was really disappointed with the viablue as I thought it was some sort of polymer barrel as it was soo light, so dont let the bulkiness fool you; they are lighter than switchcraft and these are the oposite of the ultralink; they fit very well with a firm fit in the jack.


----------



## Xan7hos

Is there an Ultimate DIY: 1/4th Plug thread out there?

 What do you guys think would be the most appropriate plug for an 8 conductor (26AWG solid core) with some vintage/old school looks thats also black? I'm leaning towards Switchcraft or perhaps painting a Canare F12


----------



## boomy3555

1/4" or 1/8"


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Xan7hos* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Is there an Ultimate DIY: 1/4th Plug thread out there?

 What do you guys think would be the most appropriate plug for an 8 conductor (26AWG solid core) with some vintage/old school looks thats also black? I'm leaning towards Switchcraft or perhaps painting a Canare F12_

 

well its not so oldschool looking, but I would still recommend the Furutech for an 8 wire cable the cable opening is quite large and yet the strain relief well thought out. second I would recommend vampire

 but your message is a little confusing; the Canare F12 is a mini


----------



## Xan7hos

Yeah sorry, I'm leaning towards a mini plug (1/8).


----------



## qusp

forget the canare; its a POC, worst connector I have ever worked with and also limits the number of amps you can use the cable with as its sooo large that it gets in the way of inputs and volume knobs. really a very very crap connector IMO. besides the connector in your avatar has a cable exit that is just as large as the canare without all the issues. the canare is heavy, terribly designed internaly and a PITA to solder. seriously stay away.

 any particular reason you want to make an 8 core cable?? more trouble than its worth IMO. 6 is about as far as I go.

 but if you arew set on it; the viablue is probably the most suitable as it doesnt need drilling out to accomodate that amount of conductors. otherwise the switchcraft and actually the new cryoparts mini would do fine. might need drilling out a bit, but will accomodate it no problem.

 either way..not the F12


----------



## scootermafia

If you're 8 wiring it, the Viablue mini would probably work, although I really don't envy whoever is soldering the plug with that, unless the wires are really small. Is that like 4 ground wires, 2 left, and 2 right?

 Edit: headphone cable or just a general interconnect?


----------



## musicmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_either way..not the F12_

 

x2. 

 Xan7hos, The F12 is no good. Badly designed, total pain to work with and bulky. Go with the XLO, switchcraft or one of the others that are easy to work with.


----------



## scootermafia

Yeah I don't understand the draw of the Canare - ALO seems to favor them, but I don't admire their looks and if they're that hard to work with they seem to have nothing going for them. For me, it's either Viablue or keep it cheap with Neutrik, although I have to mod them to fit anything in them.


----------



## FooTemps

I firmly believe that if you can't solder a Canare well, you need to go back to practicing. I've actually had the best results working with Canare connectors versus others. I find the tabs to be much more sturdy and easy to solder to with multiple conductors.

 Generally, the only people who hate Canare are ones who can't handle connectors without wire loops, IMO.


----------



## qusp

LOL; I can do them, but they suck. LOL; nice attitude; whats wrong with wanting to keep it easy on youself when you can. the F12 just presents too many problems, for what I consider to be no real benefit. if it were just one or even 2 of these problems maybe, just maybe I would consider using them for projects that suited them.

 I dont use wire loops on even the ones that have them because the wire gauges I tend to use are too big. anything 24AWG and smaller is OK, but above that and I prefer to just tin the whole terminal, its a much cleaner solution. I think you need to put you attitude back where it belongs. IMO the only cables that you would use F12s for, shouldnt be going in a minijack anyway; you'll kill the sockets of whatever you use them in. If you cant fit all the wire you want in a switchcraft (drilled out) or viablue, then you are going for something more than sound quality and should probably rethink your motives. I make a living soldering DIYMODs among other things; the solder tabs on the F12 are not too small to solder; they just suck IMO; they are pissweak, doesnt come in a decent plating; they are IMO ugly and are way too expensive for what they are. I realize you are probably just trying to have a bit of fun and stir the pot; pretty transparent if you ask me. there is a reason they are not so popular among professionals. 

 there is a difference between cant and and cant be bothered

 plus: just a thought, I think if you put minis up in a poll and asked portable amp manufacturers which minis they liked best, that canare would be pretty near the bottom, the amount of return/repairs there would be with F12 as the cause of minijack failure would be pretty massive I would think, they are actually thicker than some of the things they are supposed to plug into


----------



## FooTemps

lol, i'm not stirring the pot. You just seemed to be trashing on a connector unnecessarily. I'm dead serious when I say that the Canares have served me well and have been way easier than neutriks or switchcrafts in terms of soldering. If you say Canares are piss weak then What are neutriks, tissuepaper? Canares have double the thickness of neutriks from my experience.

 I will agree that Canares are way too heavy and big for their own good though. Still, I personally still like the internal design and the plating has never been crappy for me. But then again, I've only bought them hand picked from a bin so I tend to chose the best ones I find.


----------



## musicmaker

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FooTemps* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I firmly believe that if you can't solder a Canare well, you need to go back to practicing._

 

I have probably made close to a hundred interconnects. Soldering a canare isn't the issue. It isnt rocket science and anyone reasonably familiar with making interconnects can solder them. I find the canare to be bulky and awkward. When thin wires are used those plugs dwarf the wires and the connector looks wierd. I prefer the switchcrafts, XLO or even neutrik plugs anyday. Those are better options and I use them. 

 Now, if you like the canare plugs cool ! Use them to your heart's content.


----------



## zeroibis

Does anyone know of any plugs that have sleeves that come in two parts that perhaps snap together? I want to make a very very short cable but I realized that I could not fit the sleeve on if I made it as short as I want. My only other option would be to cut the sleeve in half and then epoxy it back together and then screw it in. (Logically I would like to avoid that for aesthetic reasons)


----------



## Good Times

Why not just cut the barrel down, but not split? You'll see some examples of this in the cable gallery (especially from EFN).


----------



## zeroibis

The problem is I want to get a length that is about .5" I do not think you can cut it down enough to have that work. The only way I can figure is if you put it on in two parts and then screw it in like normal. 

 I think I should focus on ones that can easily be cut in half and next figure a good way to cover the lines.


----------



## chris121

deleted


----------



## Good Times

Chris, are you a collector! Nice set there. I like the timber ones you've got, your own custom work? ANd never seen that smooth one - the last one at the back.


----------



## coolchu001

Any plug that fits first gen iphones?


----------



## Bonthouse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chris121* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_3.5 mm Mini_

 

Oh my god. They look delicious!

 Can I eat them!?


----------



## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bonthouse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh my god. They look delicious!

 Can I eat them!?_

 

Not until you finish eating your headphones first.


----------



## Xan7hos

Beautiful Chris! Are those custom milled from wood?


----------



## chris121

deleted


----------



## chris121

deleted


----------



## scootermafia

Looks to be the same wood housing as on the 1/4" plug to the Equinox voice, which appears to have a cardas 1/4" plug with a wooden body.

 They seem to be the first cables offering Oyaide XLR plugs...

 Chris you had that leet gallery of Voice pix eh?


----------



## Xan7hos

Is there a Ultimate DIY: 1/4 6.3mm Stereo Plug thread? Or do I need to start one?


----------



## NelsonVandal

So many nice plugs, not a single nice panel jack
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Why is it so?


----------



## coolchu001

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chris121* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They are much too thick to fit narrow headphone jack on iPhone
 Can you use PCMS iPhone 3.5mm Recessed Adapter...

 or try to extract tip and mod it ?_

 

I am aware of the adapters that I can use, but I want to find a plug that has an extended length of the metal pole that can fit into the recessed jack (similar to the plug on the EX700).


----------



## qusp

guys, beware of the viablue minis, seems the tolerances arent that great. the first cable I made was just right, nice and tight fitting; the second one I made was so tight that it wouldnt go into the input on my amp and when I pulled it out after deciding I wouldnt force it; it brought the metal ring out with it. this is unacceptable from a plug that costs so much; ive never had any problem like this before; even with $2 neutrik minis


----------



## zeroibis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chris121* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_3.5 mm Mini_

 

What was your starting plug, I am going to half to make some of those! The cocobolo is great and would go perfect with my imod! Also I could easily cut them in half so I can make my cable really short!


----------



## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zeroibis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What was your starting plug, I am going to half to make some of those! The cocobolo is great and would go perfect with my imod! Also I could easily cut them in half so I can make my cable really short!_

 

From the grooves, looks like a Neutriks.

 Qusp, that's sheite about the VBs. Especially as you say, considering the price.....


----------



## chris121

deleted


----------



## chris121

deleted


----------



## scootermafia

I've chewed through half a dozen Viablue minis and no problems yet...I'd talk to whoever sold it to you and get a replacement, that's not normal. They're all drum tight so far.

 X2 for the 1/4" plug thread.


----------



## NelsonVandal

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *NelsonVandal* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_So many nice plugs, not a single nice panel jack
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Why is it so?_

 

I guess it has to do with looks. Fashion before functionality.


----------



## qusp

^^ no its because they are so scarce on the ground. so jfar the best I have used are still switchcraft although I would love a more high end solution. all the same, durability is the most important thing with panel jacks IMO


----------



## Bonthouse

IMO Switchcrafts are plenty high-end. You could go crazy and cryo treat them, but I don't see the point of it since they're already super strong.
 If there was something significantly better, ALO or any of the commercial cable builders would've already picked it up I think.


----------



## boomy3555

It would be nice to find some really big body 3.5's w/ screw on 6.3 adapters like the Denon HD 2K's and 5K's have stock.


----------



## Xan7hos

Don't think anyone reported this one






 NeoChen's 3.5 plug @ Hohodiy


----------



## zeroibis

Wow I like the plug on that!


----------



## qusp

its just the same guts as most of these; looks identical to the cryoparts mini internals. wonder what it would take to get an OEM one done hmmm.


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_its just the same guts as most of these; looks identical to the cryoparts mini internals. wonder what it would take to get an OEM one done hmmm._

 


 From a good manufacturer that cares about quality? Multiple thousands.

 Lee


----------



## guitarplayer

Hey I recognize that wire! What are the two plugs in the middle, are they custom barrels? They are really slim.






 Look really good.

 Lee


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *guitarplayer* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_From a good manufacturer that cares about quality? Multiple thousands.

 Lee_

 









 hi Lee will get back to you about the VB tomorrow


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_guys, beware of the viablue minis,_

 

I think you got a dud, I've sold a lot of these and have only had two reports of problems. Yours, and another that I forgot to put the screws to put it together in the bag, DOH.

 Lee


----------



## qusp

actually on second look; and thinking more about it, theat one and the cryoparts one seem subtly different with better dielectric; still havent used that one yet lee. but it sure looks nice; wasnt minimizing your mini before (hehe); just keep seeing similar internals with different barrels thas'all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 re the viablue: yeah I figure that too, all the same it makes me a little wary. otherwise love'em really very nice minis; i'm sure my thoughts on them will be very positive again after I finish using the others I have and they work fine; just 1 out of 2 freaked me out a little


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_actually on second look; and thinking more about it, theat one and the cryoparts one seem subtly different with better dielectric; still havent used that one yet lee. but it sure looks nice; wasnt minimizing your mini before (hehe); just keep seeing similar internals with different barrels thas'all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

No worries, I didn't think you were. There are a lot of similar looking products out there as it seems that every connector company copies each other. That's why it is so hard to find a connector manufacturer that not only does good work, but actually builds things exactly to your spec. 

 Many have no problem with substituting cheap parts/metal/dielectric without telling the buyer/OEM customer. Long term relationships are really important when dealing with connector manufacturers as they are less likely to mess around with a long term clients order.

 Sourcing goods in the new millennium, Caveat Emptor, indeed.

 Lee


----------



## TeraHz

Has anyone seen/used these:


----------



## boomy3555

There are two styles of Pailiccs 3.5 mini plugs. This one and a rounder gloss black with a white rubber ring around it. They use to be hard to get but an ebay seller Awwan will sell the black and white ones to you if you ebay message him. the internals are identical but the bodies have a different curve to them.


----------



## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *TeraHz* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone seen/used these_

 

One word - tight. Look sweet but it's hard to fit anything decent in there as it's ridiculously narrow ad the end of the barrel, stark contrast to their other one.


----------



## coolchu001

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chris121;* 
_



_

 

Those look pretty good, but what are those? Can I buy those or are they custom made?


----------



## G-rig

Hi guys, after some advice on the best 3.5mm plug for use with Mogami mini quad cable.

 The Canare F-12 is nice, seems a bit expensive in AUS, and not sure if i'm fussed on that silver-white colour with a black cable.

 Are the Neutrik NYS231 good enough? I probably prefer the silver version rather than black metal body.

 Anything else to consider and where i can get it delievered to Australia @ the best prices?

 Thanks,


----------



## boomy3555

Neutrik is best with my Canare Star Quad. Black of nickel? You choose, but depending on the diameter of the Mogami and any heatshrink you may want to use, you may need to dremel out the cable opeing a bit. I needed to when using Canare LE4E6 regular star quad. I ordered some smaller LE4E5C wich is Canare's mini quad but it's not shipped yet. I use alot of Mini XLR's so I need the smaller guage wire when I can get it.

 I get them from Markertek, Full Compass, and Westlake.

 And Here 
http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...TOKEN=71110936


----------



## FallenAngel

Not a fan of Canare F12, pain in the butt to work with, NYS231AU is nice, but I think I prefer SwitchCraft 35HDNAU


----------



## G-rig

Thanks guys, i may try and get hold of the SwitchCraft 35HDNAU, looks like a nice connector. Will scratch the F-12 from the list, doesn't look stock enough for what i'm after either. (ps, the Mogami is 4.8mm).

 Edit: if there are any suppliers here that wouldn't mind sending me a few of these SwitchCraft plugs, would be very helpful. Or direct me to a site that does international shipping.


----------



## Good Times

If you can't find a switchcraft supplier that will ship, you need help! Those or the neutriks are a dime a dozen.


----------



## G-rig

Well the trick is finding the switchcraft's cheap, as they are about $14.33 from Farnell (or $10.80 >10). Seem a lot cheaper in the US.


----------



## Good Times

Wagner are cheap, but I'd go US or UK and try for a place that stocks a few things you'll be getting for your cable, eg wire, sheath, solder etc. There's also an eBayer in NSW who sell the neutriks with free shipping on 10+. I'd send you one if I had any switchcrafts, if you want a nickel neutriks just let me know.


----------



## G-rig

A few searches showed the UK suppliers still quite expensive for the Swichcraft, and Wagner don't list it in their pdf. Anyway not really one place that has everything i want but Farnell will do this time for the plugs. 

 Thanks for that, will keep the neutriks in mind as well, they seem like a popular choice too.


----------



## Bonthouse

How about these if you're okay with international shipping? Cheap and fast


----------



## scootermafia

Does anyone else think that the Cryoparts mini is made by Yarbo? Their end looks identical, the way it's beveled and all.


----------



## scootermafia

Edit: same guts design.











 Cryo'd with a less tacky body.


----------



## scootermafia

And a new development. This plug is literally the Hicon J35S01, only with the scripting removed, at least superficially. Same design but the cryoparts one most likely has the better materials of the two.






 They look similar but probably just have the same OEM design for the look of some of the parts.


----------



## scootermafia

Pretty much impossible to get Hicon stuff or Yarbo stuff in the US, making this all pretty futile.


----------



## Good Times

I don't mind the look of the Yarbo barrels, but they all look decent. This is a great thread, so many more options that when it first started.


----------



## scootermafia

Yea I'll take anything with the Yarbo guts, the Cryoparts one is nicely understated though. They're so insanely easy to solder with their huge tabs and roomy interior, and the teflon doesn't melt.


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scootermafia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Does anyone else think that the Cryoparts mini is made by Yarbo? Their end looks identical, the way it's beveled and all._

 

No, I do not order these from Yarbo. Perhaps Yarbo uses the same OEM as I do and has a plug made that looks like mine.

 Lee


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scootermafia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Edit: confirmed._

 

Not confirmed. Does look very similar though. Looks can be deceiving.

 Lee


----------



## Bonthouse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scootermafia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Edit: confirmed.

http://www.audiophonics.fr/images/yarbo_jack1.jpg
http://www.cryo-parts.com/images/cry...lug_inside.jpg

 Cryo'd with a less tacky body._

 

Ugh, there you go again, judging on what you SEE without any facts to back your conclusion.

 And having your soldering iron "pretty hot" all the time is a no no. Every skilled DIY'er should know that. Just enough heat so the solder can flow easy. 
 More heat will only make the solder joint brittle.


----------



## scootermafia

Not saying that being made by one of those other makers is a bad thing. Someone's gotta make it. I think the guts design is simply a set, good design that one OEM out there invented. The barrel on the two is the same design also, but I think your chrome is lighter. Not saying the two plugs are literally identical, just cosmetically identical.


----------



## scootermafia

I like Mundorf solder because it sounds better, and my soldering station is a little weak, its heat has to be up way high to flow it. It's high enough to where I have to work super fast with the Viablue plug in order to not make mistakes. I'm not talking about maxing out my iron all the way, just that at the temperature to melt the Mundorf it doesn't take much time to damage the Viablue plug so you have to be careful. Go grind your axe against me somewhere else. I'm only saying that the cosmetic design of the Cryoparts plug is shared between a few other plugs that come from the same factory or something.


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scootermafia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_ Not saying the two plugs are literally identical, just cosmetically identical._

 

They are remarkably similar cosmetically.

 Peace, 

 Lee


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scootermafia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I like Mundorf solder because it sounds better, and my soldering station is a little weak, its heat has to be up way high to flow it._

 

I mainly have switched to Mundorf solder myself and love it (although it took me a while to get used to the smell...). If you plan to continue to use the Mundorf solder, you should invest in a good station. 

 I have a few of the Metcal SP-200's around my shop. They are affordable, fine quality stations and I highly recommend them. They are on sale for $309 right now at HMC:






Metcal SP200-11: Metcal SP200-11 Soldering Station, Model SP200

 Once you have used a decent station, you'll wonder how you lived without one.

 Peace, 

 Lee


----------



## boomy3555

This is what I'm looking at. Does anyone recommend NOT buying this?

Amazon.com: Aoyue 2900 Lead Free Soldering Station: Home Improvement

 I don't do enough soldering to justify spending more that say $120.00 US and it has quick change tips.


----------



## scootermafia

Well, I do a fair bit of soldering and probably Lee even more. I just have one of those ebay hakko-style ones, it is a little inconsistent I would agree. That one that you linked at $300 is serious business, what are its strengths...just super consistent heat? Its power supply thingie is massive. 

 I love the smell of Mundorf solder. It smells cool. You need a quality iron if you ever have to reflow it though, once it's set it's pretty well set. Gotta get things right the first time every time so yeah a better iron would be nice. I usually use Cardas Quad but for special occasions like the Viablue (or Cryoparts) plug I'll get it done with the Mundorf.


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_This is what I'm looking at. Does anyone recommend NOT buying this?

Amazon.com: Aoyue 2900 Lead Free Soldering Station: Home Improvement

 I don't do enough soldering to justify spending more that say $120.00 US and it has quick change tips._

 

That look pretty nice, I've never used that brand, but the price is right, especially if you get one from SRA.

Stan Rubinstein Assoc., Inc. > Aoyue 2900 Lead Free Compatible Station

 Lee


----------



## guitarplayer

The Metcal works a little differently that most others on the market and it does a fantastic job at keeping the tip temperature constant. The tips are very easy to change as well; slip one out and put a new one in, so ensuring use of the correct size tip is more likely to happen. 

 I used Weller electronic stations for years, but once I got a Metcal and got used to it, I switched over to them and bought a bunch more for around the shop.

 In any event, I sound like a commercial for Metcal, so I'll stop...ha!

 In the grand scheme of things, $300 is not a lot of money for an industrial tool, however, if you don't solder that much, I can see how $300 would be a tough nut. Good tools are a wonderful thing though.

 Peace, 

 Lee





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scootermafia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Well, I do a fair bit of soldering and probably Lee even more. I just have one of those ebay hakko-style ones, it is a little inconsistent I would agree. That one that you linked at $300 is serious business, what are its strengths...just super consistent heat? Its power supply thingie is massive. 

 I love the smell of Mundorf solder. It smells cool. You need a quality iron if you ever have to reflow it though, once it's set it's pretty well set. Gotta get things right the first time every time so yeah a better iron would be nice. I usually use Cardas Quad but for special occasions like the Viablue (or Cryoparts) plug I'll get it done with the Mundorf._


----------



## scootermafia

Yeah, I'm no audio fat cat yet, so blowing $300 on that thing is a little hard to swallow when there might be a few ones out there like the Aoyue that are a big improvement without having to pay $300 vs. what I have now. I think I'll take some HD800s first, if I can ever rustle up $1400.


----------



## boomy3555

So far every IC or Cable I'be done was with a simple Radio Shack 40 wat soldering iron. Very unpredictable but respectable when I can find the "hot Spot" on the tip. I plan on making more so I will definitely invest in the Aouyue soon. I Like the idea of quick change tips. I would get a hot air rework staiton but I usually go form scratch and don't need to de-solder PC boards or anything. The only real hard things are the Ipod LOD's and those D^%$b tiny pins that are so close to each other.


----------



## qpwoeiruty999

Hi!
 I need to make 4 x 3.5mm to rca splitters. I already have the RCA connectors(Neutrik NYS373) and they seem quite solid.

 My problem is that i'm going to use them to output from my soundcard (X-Meridian) to my amplifiers in a car PC project. As you can imagine, space is quite limited and i seek for 3.5mm connectors(overall quality matters) that have an overall diameter less than or equal to 11mm. Speaking about the barrel of course. Anything bigger will not fit as the soundcard's connectors are closely located.

 Also, i need suggestions for cable to buy. I'm between Mogami W2534 , Mogami W2549 and Gepko 61801EZ . I'm close to W2549 but also W2534 seems quite good with lower capacitance! What do you think? Any suggestions on the "strategy" i follow? Eg., in case i use W2549, should i use 2 runs per splitter and connect braid only at the source (3.5mm).In this case, how i'm going to stick 2 runs inside a 3.5mm connector assuming i'll need to clamp it somehow? Or should i just use 1 run and use the braid as ground and the split the braid to the 2 rca connectors?

 Thanks alot! Hope someone can help!


----------



## Good Times

For the plugs, the Pailiccs narrower version is exactly 10mm OD including barrel.


----------



## qpwoeiruty999

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For the plugs, the Pailiccs narrower version is exactly 10mm OD including barrel._

 

Thanks for the info! It seems like it's difficult to find an online shop selling Pailiccs. Anyone knows the overall diameter of Switchcraft 35HDBAU. Looks like a really quality connector and i can find it online.

 Another question. If i use the Mogami W2549 for my 3.5mm to RCA splitters, do you think It's wise to use only 1 run and use the braid for ground, splitting it to the 2 RCA connectors, as is shown in this Tutorial? Will this have any negative effect on the ability of the cable to block noise?

 Thanks again!


----------



## Good Times

PM me if you want me to send you one.


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qpwoeiruty999* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the info! It seems like it's difficult to find an online shop selling Pailiccs. Anyone knows the overall diameter of Switchcraft 35HDBAU. Looks like a really quality connector and i can find it online.

 Another question. If i use the Mogami W2549 for my 3.5mm to RCA splitters, do you think It's wise to use only 1 run and use the braid for ground, splitting it to the 2 RCA connectors, as is shown in this Tutorial? Will this have any negative effect on the ability of the cable to block noise?

 Thanks again!_

 

Personaly, I like to keep by grounds and signals seperate as much as possible. For instance, I like to use a star quad configuration, even if I will join the two grounds at one end. I have no scientific data to support my theory but I feel it gives a richer SQ with longer cables. 
 The Canare Star Quad LE4E6 will fit the Neutriks 3.5 with only a slight bit of dremeling of the cable opening in the body. The smaller star Quad LE45C is a smaller diameter but I feel it's smaller gauge wire tends to brighten up the SQ a bit.


----------



## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qpwoeiruty999* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another question. If i use the Mogami W2549 for my 3.5mm to RCA splitters, do you think It's wise to use only 1 run and use the braid for ground, splitting it to the 2 RCA connectors, as is shown in this Tutorial? Will this have any negative effect on the ability of the cable to block noise?

 Thanks again!_

 

Nooooo! You want the ground wire to be the same length as the signals, and the same conductivity for its entire length. Doing it that way will change the conductivity at the split.


----------



## qpwoeiruty999

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_PM me if you want me to send you one._

 

Actually I'll need at least 4. Do you have this quantity? I live in Cyprus/Europe but shipping is not a problem

 Thanks!


----------



## qpwoeiruty999

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Personaly, I like to keep by grounds and signals seperate as much as possible. For instance, I like to use a star quad configuration, even if I will join the two grounds at one end. I have no scientific data to support my theory but I feel it gives a richer SQ with longer cables. 
 The Canare Star Quad LE4E6 will fit the Neutriks 3.5 with only a slight bit of dremeling of the cable opening in the body. The smaller star Quad LE45C is a smaller diameter but I feel it's smaller gauge wire tends to brighten up the SQ a bit._

 

I really appreciate opinions based also on experience. Off course i'm not yet convinced that a smaller gauge would have a significant effect.
 What worries me, is the higher capacitance of the star quad. Just that, but then again...

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nooooo! You want the ground wire to be the same length as the signals, and the same conductivity for its entire length. Doing it that way will change the conductivity at the split._

 

Your argument makes sense. Doy you support also the use of a star quad?
 Maybe Mogami W2534 or W2893? You also think that i'd better use separate wires for Left+,Left-,Right+,Right- and connect Left-,Right- together at the source(3.5mm) end? How about increased capacitance of star arrangment? Would that have any effect for 2-3 meter runs?

 Then, where should i connect the copper shield? Only at the source side (3.5mm)? That of course will pose difficulties as i'll need to fit(and solder) too much inside the 3.5mm connector. Or should i connect copper shield at both sides (3.5mm and split shield at both RCA's). I think Blue Jeans company does it at both sites (I've read it somewhere in this forum)

 Thanks again!


----------



## boomy3555

Many DIY'rs connect the sheilding to the ground. My personal choice is to leave the sheilding isolated as it's sole purpose is to surround the wires and create a barrier for EM signals. So to me it's connectivity is not important. That's why tinned copper or alluminum are often used for shielding around copper wires. If you connect the shielding to the ground wires you will them be sending return signal through it as well as the two ground wires, which I believe would create an EM signature surrounding all the wires .


----------



## scootermafia

Just got a Metcal SP200 for only $190 shipped on ebay, it had a used/tested power supply and brand new tip, handle, and other stuff from a reputable seller, saved about $140 vs. getting an entirely new one. Woohoo...


----------



## Good Times

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qpwoeiruty999* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Your argument makes sense. Doy you support also the use of a star quad?_

 

For this kind of cable I prefer using a figure 8 cable. It keeps the left and right signals seperated. Dodgy link but shows what I mean.

 And using the shield as the ground gives you a thinner wire. Or you can use a pair of twisted pair wires and keep together in techflex. 

 If you use a star quad then I subscribe to Boomy's point of view on that. I don't connect and any end.


----------



## qpwoeiruty999

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For this kind of cable I prefer using a figure 8 cable. It keeps the left and right signals seperated. Dodgy link but shows what I mean.

 And using the shield as the ground gives you a thinner wire. Or you can use a pair of twisted pair wires and keep together in techflex. 

 If you use a star quad then I subscribe to Boomy's point of view on that. I don't connect and any end._

 

So, if i get it correctly, and based on my initial options i'd better use the Gepko 61801EZ and run 2 pairs for 1 3.5mm to rca splitter. 


 But i could also, if i understand correctly use 1 run of Mogami W2534 without connecting the shield. 

 Gepko is 100% shield coverage but more capacitance than Mogami... Still a dilemma for me. What should you choose between the 2 if price wasn't a problem?

 By the way i got an official answer. Switchcraft 35HDBAU has an overall diameter of 10.3 mm


----------



## Good Times

IMO, that dual pair Gepko would be a great choice if it's not too thick for your plugs.


----------



## qpwoeiruty999

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_IMO, that dual pair Gepko would be a great choice if it's not too thick for your plugs._

 

Thank you very much! I think i'll agree with you. Total diameter for 1 run is 3.5mm, so for 2 runs it should be close to, but definitely less than 7mm. I feel that i could even strip the jacket before the plug and heat shrink over the internal wires. This would propably allo me to use a 3.5mm plug with 6mm opening, like the Neutrik NYS231L which is very cheap also.

 In any case, Gepko is extremely cheap at US$0.14 per foot, so if something doesn't fit in my project, i can keep it for a future project!

 Really appreciate your help!


----------



## scootermafia

Just got my Metcal SP200 in, what a nice deal! It's really a pretty amazing iron, they included a nice fine tip perfect for what I need it for, has very consistent heat but it doesn't get excessively hot. It heats up almost instantly and there's no adjustment, it has some crazy circuitry that lets it sense how much heat is needed to melt whatever it is needs melted. It doesn't seem to lose heat at all between joints when you're doing a bunch of things in rapid succession, the old iron was totally schizo in how it delivered heat. I noticed it doesn't liquify ALO SXC wire's PE insulation quite as fast as my old iron. It's a real winner and now soldering joints is fun.


----------



## guitarplayer

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *scootermafia* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just got my Metcal SP200 in, what a nice deal! It's really a pretty amazing iron, they included a nice fine tip perfect for what I need it for, has very consistent heat but it doesn't get excessively hot. It heats up almost instantly and there's no adjustment, it has some crazy circuitry that lets it sense how much heat is needed to melt whatever it is needs melted. It doesn't seem to lose heat at all between joints when you're doing a bunch of things in rapid succession, the old iron was totally schizo in how it delivered heat. I noticed it doesn't liquify ALO SXC wire's PE insulation quite as fast as my old iron. It's a real winner and now soldering joints is fun._

 

Good tools=Win!

 Peace, 

 Lee


----------



## Xan7hos

Hey guys, I just started a 6.3mm/ 1/4" Stereo phone plug thread, please check it out and feel free to contribute 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/ult...9/#post5702238


----------



## komi

My 3.5mm collection !

 Nice gold plated "HICON" branded plug.
 I like them cuz they accept 8 mm. thick cable.
 And they are dirst cheap in Germany - like 3 bucks a pice.
 All metal with "Gun Metal" finish!








 This is "No Name" plug - is not gold plated - but really small, nice for thin cables
 Also all metal - black painted
 Price - 2 bucks a piece.






 This is a "Must Have" - "Neutrik" gold plated plug.
 Really nice, and i think no need for more comments !







 And last one - i just got in my collection is "No Name" is my favorite.
 Is gold plated - all metal, "Gun Metal" finish - 3 rings-pins plug!
 Nice if you need to solder Mic or Video ...
 Ultra small, and well built, priced @ 4 bucks a piece ... I really like that one ...

 Bad thing is - i got last 3 from store!


----------



## Pars

I laugh every time I see this thread. 

*Ultimate DIY!*... hardly. 

 Some nice looking connectors and a wider variety than I was aware existed, even if the mini 3.5mm is one of the least reliable types. I'm sure everyone would like to see some better jacks.


----------



## komi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pars* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I laugh every time I see this thread. 

*Ultimate DIY!*... hardly. 

 Some nice looking connectors and a wider variety than I was aware existed, even if the mini 3.5mm is one of the least reliable types. I'm sure everyone would like to see some better jacks._

 



 Why you dont show us some better Jacks, huh ?


----------



## Bonthouse

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Pars* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I laugh every time I see this thread. 

*Ultimate DIY!*... hardly. 

 Some nice looking connectors and a wider variety than I was aware existed, even if the mini 3.5mm is one of the least reliable types. I'm sure everyone would like to see some better jacks._

 

This is pretty tasteless.. If it really was so unreliable, the industry would've came up with a new type by now, don't you think? 
 Do you have any proof to back your argument?


----------



## n_maher

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Bonthouse* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Do you have any proof to back your argument?_

 

Other than years of experience with portable devices of all kinds that use this type of plug, no. But the fact remains that 1/8" jacks by nature of their size tend to be a failure point for most audio devices they are used it. It's just that simple. Do they work well for their intended application? The best answer to that I have is "sort of". Any way you slice it they are a required compromise due to the thickness of the device they are used in but personally I avoid them whenever possible.


----------



## Pars

I also don't use minis much anymore as I rarely build portable amps, etc. My point was that a thread about mini plugs is hardly the ultimate in DIY. 

 I don't see how you could find that that opinion is tasteless, but whatever. Particularly when comparing these threads to something like a beta22 amp build, or really any other build thread, there isn't a lot of substance in a plug.


----------



## Bonthouse

Yet every headphone has a plug.. and many DIY'ers make their own cables.
 So I say there's a lot of substance in a plug!


----------



## Good Times

Hey I agree it's not the ultimate in diy, but I think the point is the quest for the ultimate 3.5mm plug. It may not be the best method of connection but you can't argue with it's importance or relevance.


----------



## boomy3555

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey I agree it's not the ultimate in diy, but I think the point is the quest for the ultimate 3.5mm plug. It may not be the best method of connection but you can't argue with it's importance or relevance._

 




 [size=large]*Cheers*[/size]


----------



## zkool448

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Good Times* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hey I agree it's not the ultimate in diy, but I think the point is the quest for the ultimate 3.5mm plug. It may not be the best method of connection but you can't argue with it's importance or relevance._

 

x2. Maybe an agreement can be reached, if only this thread was titled *Quest For The Ultimate 3.5mm 1/8" Mini Jack*.


----------



## tilite

Hey *komi* do you know of a online stockist that ships internationally for the HICON Gun Metal plugs you posted... or anyone else for that matter?


----------



## TeraHz

well I just got my 'other' pailiccs the mini quad and I think they look very nice:





 The Canare Star Quad fits snug in them, and the Canare Mini Star Quad + TechFlex fits well too.

 The plugs are slightly different from what was on the pictures from where I got them. The ground connection is behind the two channels. Not sure if it is better, but it wasn't hard to solder.


----------



## techenvy

so neutrik is better than switchcraft for itouch iphone,,?????????? 
 also what about Pailiccs


----------



## scootermafia

Time for a thread resurrection. I was expecting more out of Connex (partsconnexion house brand) which has their own branded versions of the various generic Chinese designs that are out there. Now they have their version of the miniplug which has the same guts layout as the Yarbo, Cryoparts, and Hicon plugs. I like this layout as it's easy to work with, and I'd really like my own custom plug from the same OEM, but I can't seem to find the vendor...must keep working on it. I really hate the barrel on these, it's awful looking - it doesn't have a wide opening in the back, and it's not particularly well priced ($6, and I know the Cryoparts one for $8 is cryo'd and has good materials, so why would I bother getting these shipped from Canada). They need to make these with a few different body options, perhaps one with a different size for the hole in the back. I don't mean to diss PCX, they kick ass, good prices for international shipping, awesome selection, pretty much one of the best DIY stores there is, but I could be a lot happier with the body design on these (although I am not 100% happy with just about every miniplug out there). I will still probably order these so I can take some better pictures and see how they feel, as perhaps the photos do not do them justice.





 However, their new 1/4" to 1/8" adapter is badass looking, really high quality - people should just get these instead of paying up for one that's made with wire and Neutrik connectors.


----------



## french2013

it seems no one can find the pailiccs connectors. i havent read through the whole thread but this place sells em...Pailiccs 3.5mm Gold Plated Connector [PA35] - S$6.52 : Null Audio Studio, Where everything is purely handmade


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *french2013* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_it seems no one can find the pailiccs connectors. i havent read through the whole thread but this place sells em...Pailiccs 3.5mm Gold Plated Connector [PA35] - S$6.52 : Null Audio Studio, Where everything is purely handmade_

 

Nice find. Solid price, and pretty reasonable shipping from Singapore. Wonder what OD a cable it can take. Narrows quite a bit.


----------



## 4sound

I'm looking for a higher end looking Angled 3.5 other than the Switchcraft (kind of big) or Neutrik.


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *4sound* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I'm looking for a higher end looking Angled 3.5 other than the Switchcraft (kind of big) or Neutrik._

 

Not sure if there is anything comercially available out there outside of the two you have looked at. I have seen some folks make custom right angles out of the Neutrik base and then molded something over the wires. I think I saw some wood, even. I am going to make some custom low profile ones, but epoxy putty is decidedly NOT high end looking


----------



## 4sound

Thanks FraGGler,

 I thought I'd ask. I'd want a little shorter barrel (maybe a little bigger). I think I'll try experimenting with a Neutrik as well.

 So many cool straight plugs, I'm kind of surprised there aren't any more commercially available angled 3.5mm out there.


----------



## Bostonears

Any of you plugologists come across a 1/8" stereo plug with the front end threaded to take a 1/4" adapter? Some headphones (e.g. Denon D2000 shown below) come with these, but I haven't found a source for a DIY version.


----------



## FraGGleR

The only locking mini plugs I have seen are the opposite of what you are looking for, the mini plug has a locking ring that goes around the female plug. I think AKG uses a similar system for their microphones which is what the plug I saw was for. It was Redco.com if you wanted to look at it.


----------



## qusp

no I think he's looking for this, you can find it at qables






 its custom made for qables, doesnt come with a barrel, but you can use a regular neutrik mini barrel or heatshrink. not cheap, but since its so rare and its bespoke to qables I guess thats what you get. qables minis are all a little on the pricey side though, but in europe they are expensive anywhere it seems.


----------



## qusp

HA, the screen snap I took had a pop up tag visible 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 oh well you get the idea


----------



## qusp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *FraGGleR* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Not sure if there is anything comercially available out there outside of the two you have looked at. I have seen some folks make custom right angles out of the Neutrik base and then molded something over the wires. I think I saw some wood, even. I am going to make some custom low profile ones, but epoxy putty is decidedly NOT high end looking 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

yeah i'm afraid they just dont exist, the switchcraft is massive and pretty much negates any benefit offered by having it right angle by being so HUGE; wont work with the majority of portable amps because it gets in the way of something almost every time, even when the barrel is shortened, because of the way the guts are set up its only possible to shorten it ~10mm. the neutrik is the best option and modifies well, can get it very very small. 

 as far as the epoxy putty, depends on the skill and patience of the user


----------



## Bostonears

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_no I think he's looking for this, you can find it at qables

 its custom made for qables, doesnt come with a barrel, but you can use a regular neutrik mini barrel or heatshrink. not cheap, but since its so rare and its bespoke to qables I guess thats what you get. qables minis are all a little on the pricey side though, but in europe they are expensive anywhere it seems._

 

That qables plug is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *qusp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 as far as the epoxy putty, depends on the skill and patience of the user 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 






 I wrote that before you shared some of your artistry with me. I still haven't swung by a hobby shop yet to get some varnish, but it is definitely on my to do list. If things go well, I have some crazy ideas for custom connectors.


----------



## SawJai




----------



## weibby

Audioquest king cobra 3.5mm not included?
   
  http://www.listenup.com/scripts/img/index.php/?image=/lu/graphics/00000001/AQ.mini-3rca.jpg&size=160


----------



## qusp

if you can buy it separately, then why not. might want to get a more useful pic than that one though. that looks like a model. looks pretty ugly too IMO


----------



## Cymbal Monkey

I really want to actually machine my own 3.5mm plug... like, turn it on a lathe out of pure copper and teflon, and then stick it together via shrink fitting (liquid nitrogen on the metal parts so that they slip into the teflon, and then expand locking themselves into place). The level of awesome would be unmatched.


----------



## ignatp

Quote: 





qusp said:


> no I think he's looking for this, you can find it at qables
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Where can I find a female threaded plug for this?


----------



## Bina

Hi, I hope I can get some help here.
   
  I'm looking for right angled plug, which can accept cable of 8,2mm diameter. I only found straight plugs from Viablue and Hocin, but I really need right angled. It will be used for digital cable for Jh-3A.
   
  Thanks


----------



## Lil' Knight

8.2mm is pretty large. You could try to drill the entry of the Switchcraft RA. Or the the Oyaide RA might fit but I haven't tried it though.


----------



## labrat

Delete


----------



## labrat

Delete


----------



## labrat

Delete


----------



## Bina

I will use Supra Trico Coax cable. I know it is stiff, friend use it.  And stiffnes is reason why I need angled plug.
   
  Lil Knight: Thanks for tip on Oyaide, but I'm little confused by their website. There is written that this conector is for cable 6,0 mm or less, maybe because that ring inside? I wrote email about Oyaide to Cryoparts, maybe they can give me answer.


----------



## Lil' Knight

I pretty much doubt you could find a RA plug with that large entry. Gotta drill it a little to fit that cable, I'd guess.


----------



## C.44

Is there a female version available of the ViaBlue T6s ? I have a male 3.5mm plug on my E500's and i want to make a simple extensioncord to use instead of my PTH. I couldn't find anything on ViaBlue's site so i sent them a mail but haven't heard anything yet. If there isn't a ViaBlue product available, what would be a good alternative to use with it ? I still have a pailiccs plug (male) lying around from Null Audio so i wouldn't mind anything from Pailiccs either. As long as it's 3.5mm and female haha.


----------



## Disasterpiece

Hey there. I'm looking for a solid plug to replace the one on the stock cable of my Senn HD-555 (for both home and on-the-go use) - I've been using them for around year and a half and the original plug naturally began to break. I live in Bulgaria and the best thing I've found so far is lunashops.com - they've got some Pailiccs, Yarbo and Neutrik and ship to here for almost nothing. I'm trying to find a cheap ViaBlue T6s - it looks like a good plug - but everywhere it's to be found it's over $10 and another $10 for the shipping (a shop that offered it also offered for $6 the same Pailiccs that costs $2 in lunashops - that's why I think that the ViaBlue can be found for a lower price). Any suggestions? I'd prefer the kind of connectors used in Yarbo's (http://lunashops.com/images/upload/Image/3_5mm-yabao-2.jpg - I don't know exactly how it's called) (as opposed to the ones of the Pailiccs (http://www.eardio.com/images/magictoolbox_cache/0dea0a07ffd99456ca5e9824cc2aa42boriginaloriginalboth.jpg) and the ViaBlue; nevertheless I'd like to have the ViaBlue for its spacer thingies and the way the cable is secured). Thanks.


----------



## Robot Metal

Does anybody know of any small/short right-angled connectors? I'll get the Pailiccs otherwise.


----------



## Robot Metal




----------



## Mad Max

Neutrik NTP3RC?
  Otherwise, you should make your own improvised plug if you want even smaller, I think.


----------



## Robot Metal

Ah, that'll do. Thanks. I think I saw that one before and confused it with one of the larger ones, but I saw a photo of it and realized I was mistaken.


----------



## earfonia

Nice thread   Let me added with some of my connector pics


----------



## Mad Max

So that's what the F12 looks like on the inside.


----------



## earfonia

Quote: 





mad max said:


> So that's what the F12 looks like on the inside.


 


  The F12 picture is just right above your post


----------



## Mad Max

Quote: 





earfonia said:


> The F12 picture is just right above your post


 

 No picture loads.  Quoting the post reveals there is no html code for a picture or anything at all.  =\


----------



## earfonia

That's strange, I can see the pictures from 2 different PCs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  I uploaded 6 pictures on that post...
   
  Anyway, here is the direct links for the pictures:

 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/bpribadi/Cables/P1070890w.jpg
 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/bpribadi/Cables/P1070871w.jpg
 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/bpribadi/Cables/P1070873w.jpg
 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/bpribadi/Cables/P1070880w.jpg
 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/bpribadi/Cables/P1080270w.jpg
 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/bpribadi/Cables/P1080287w.jpg


----------



## Mad Max

I thought you were talking about Robot Metal's post.
  The pictures you posted load perfectly.  =]


----------



## qusp

Quote: 





mad max said:


> So that's what the F12 looks like on the inside.


 


  indeed aint it stupid? its head and shoulders above the rest in the race for stupidest mini of all time. massive barrel, nickel plate everything, socket breaking weight, strain relief from hell and for a barrel clearly designed for massive cables, it has solder terminals so tiny and close together you cant use it for anything even normal size without it being a complete pita. used it once, never again and nor have i ever been asked to use it again.


----------



## Mad Max

Those tiny terminals caught my attention first.  =\
  Nickel plating ain't that nice, either.
   
  I've messed with the various Neutriks plus the Switchcraft 35HD and DoubleHelixCable's mini.  I like the latter two a lot, very light and easy to work with; the Switchcraft is sturdy as hell to boot, and the DHC plug has a massive barrel opening.


----------



## Disasterpiece

Quote: 





disasterpiece said:


> Hey there. I'm looking for a solid plug to replace the one on the stock cable of my Senn HD-555 (for both home and on-the-go use) - I've been using them for around year and a half and the original plug naturally began to break. I live in Bulgaria and the best thing I've found so far is lunashops.com - they've got some Pailiccs, Yarbo and Neutrik and ship to here for almost nothing. I'm trying to find a cheap ViaBlue T6s - it looks like a good plug - but everywhere it's to be found it's over $10 and another $10 for the shipping (a shop that offered it also offered for $6 the same Pailiccs that costs $2 in lunashops - that's why I think that the ViaBlue can be found for a lower price). Any suggestions? I'd prefer the kind of connectors used in Yarbo's (http://lunashops.com/images/upload/Image/3_5mm-yabao-2.jpg - I don't know exactly how it's called) (as opposed to the ones of the Pailiccs (http://www.eardio.com/images/magictoolbox_cache/0dea0a07ffd99456ca5e9824cc2aa42boriginaloriginalboth.jpg) and the ViaBlue; nevertheless I'd like to have the ViaBlue for its spacer thingies and the way the cable is secured). Thanks.


 


  Sorry to quote myself, but... anyone?
  I'll most likely order from lunashops (when I get around some issues with my PayPal), but any suggestions in the meantime are welcome.


----------



## RobS

Anyone tried the Oxyaide plug yet - expensive but very cool ...!


----------



## labrat

Delete


----------



## JamesMcProgger

Neutrik 3.5 L plug and Calrad 3.5 4 conductor L plug
   

   

   
  the Calrad 3.5 4 conductor plug:


----------



## Very Legal

The Via-Blue plug caught my interest it almost looks like you can connect it without soldering, is that right? If not, is there a plug you can mount without soldering?


----------



## Br777

Quote: 





very legal said:


> The Via-Blue plug caught my interest it almost looks like you can connect it without soldering, is that right? If not, is there a plug you can mount without soldering?


 


   
  Viablue requires solder.
   
  non-solder plugs exist, but i dont know.


----------



## JamesMcProgger

Quote: 





very legal said:


> The Via-Blue plug caught my interest it almost looks like you can connect it without soldering, is that right? If not, is there a plug you can mount without soldering?


 


  Radioshack Gold series plugs, has little screws, no solder required.
   






 pict from earlier this thread.
   
  actually i might add some better picts from mines later, also some of the beautiful Vintage Audio Lab shinny shinny plugs


----------



## Very Legal

Ok, Thanks for the info James and Br777 i think i will order some of those.


----------



## JamesMcProgger

Quote: 





very legal said:


> Ok, Thanks for the info James and Br777 i think i will order some of those.


 


  just to check if it wasnt a confusion, the radiochack gold has screws, the vintage audio labs doesnt.


----------



## Very Legal

Yes i found out that but the radiochack gold was sold out when i checked out ebay. Will try again some other day.


----------



## Mad Max

Ratshack?  =\


----------



## Very Legal

@ James i think i found it here:
   
  http://cgi.ebay.com/Radioshack-GoldSeiries-1-8-3-5mm-Stereo-Plug-/120625488162?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item1c15d6e122
   
  @ Mad Max do you know of a better solderfree plug than the one above?


----------



## teds headfood




----------



## Br777

might as well throw this up here too.   Parrots informed us today (see diy cable thread) that Viablue has come out with a smaller mini jack.. its the size of a neutrik.
  here you can see the old large style next to a neutrik for reference.
   

  from the left:
  clip+, calrad trrs, neutrik, viablue, switchcraft, switchcraft rca, trrs from markertek, neutrik
   
  the new viablue's can be purchased here, which incidentaly is the cheapest i have ever seen either size.
  I have bought from these guys and they are awesome to deal with.. REEEEEEEEEAALLY quick shipping.


----------



## Anthony1

Any other online sites for buying Viablue that take PAYPAL?


----------



## labrat

Delete


----------



## teds headfood

one solid piece of leopardwood epoxied on neutrik right angle plug.very easy to make.


----------



## BlackbeardBen

Quote: 





mad max said:


> Neutrik NTP3RC?
> Otherwise, you should make your own improvised plug if you want even smaller, I think.


 
   
  Hasn't someone taken that Neutrik plug and omitted the long body part - I can see from the disassembled photos that you could just leave it off.  Obviously it's not going to stick together on its own - I presume if you heat shrink around it, it holds it all together.  I think that's what I saw from another DIY'er, anyway.  I'm definitely interested in making something like that.


----------



## Br777

Quote: 





blackbeardben said:


> Hasn't someone taken that Neutrik plug and omitted the long body part - I can see from the disassembled photos that you could just leave it off.  Obviously it's not going to stick together on its own - I presume if you heat shrink around it, it holds it all together.  I think that's what I saw from another DIY'er, anyway.  I'm definitely interested in making something like that.


 

  
  Here's one I did... obviously not the best photos...
   

   
  you just jam the rubber piece onto the threads of the casing.  it fits very snugly.
   
  before that though, I cut down the white "insulator protector thing" to the size necessary, then i use puddy epoxy and basically mold it around the entire area covering all the wires and connections and filling the inside of the connector.  You can choose to use the white insulator protector, or just put the two sides right over the epoxy.. either way works well.
  the connector being filled with epoxy  provides excellent strain releaf, and prevents wires from crossing or shorting.    Then i super glue the two sides to the epoxy and push the rubber thingy on.. as long as you dont over fill the inside you should be able to get every thing flush and very very strongly held together.


----------



## BlackbeardBen

Quote: 





br777 said:


> Here's one I did... obviously not the best photos...
> 
> [snip]
> 
> ...


 

 Great explanation - I didn't even notice the plastic section before.  I've seen some that omit the rubber piece too - but fatigue failure might be a problem if you don't do it right.


----------



## necorn

hey guys, im looking for a plug for my m50 removeable cord mod, and i found one (very cheap) off ebay, but im a bit worried about the quality, also theres no brand name,
  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-8-3-5-mm-STEREO-Male-Plug-Metal-Audio-Connector-/270650247254?pt=AU_Electronics_Accessories_Wires_Cables&hash=item3f04030856
  im a first time solderer so i was hoping the holes would help me with soldering.
  i also like the stress relief(?)
   
  so if anyone can at least identify this plug, ill go ahead and buy it if its not crap
  cheers


----------



## Br777

for that price you can probably do better.  
   
  probably best best is to check:
  www.markertek.com
  www.parts-express.com
   
  look for neutrik, rean, or... well that outta get you started anyway


----------



## vincentvdn

It probably doesn't belong in this topic but I have a quick and easy question regarding soldering a new mini jack to a cable, since I just bought a Neutrik NYS231BG for my old ES7.
   
  The cable of the ES7 is really thin. Will soldering and using some heatshrink make the connection strong enough to withstand an accidental shock or pull? It looks so fragile.


----------



## Mad Max

Quote: 





vincentvdn said:


> It probably doesn't belong in this topic but I have a quick and easy question regarding soldering a new mini jack to a cable, since I just bought a Neutrik NYS231BG for my old ES7.
> 
> The cable of the ES7 is really thin. Will soldering and using some heatshrink make the connection strong enough to withstand an accidental shock or pull? It looks so fragile.


 

 That's what the strain relief clamp is for.  =]


----------



## peaceful1

does Paliccs have any official site ?


----------



## majnu

Does anyone know if Pailiccs make a 4 pole 3.5mm TRRS Jack and if it's available in the UK?


----------



## Mad Max

Quote: 





peaceful1 said:


> does Paliccs have any official site ?


 

This seems to be it.  Seems to be PALIC now.
   


  Quote: 





majnu said:


> Does anyone know if Pailiccs make a 4 pole 3.5mm TRRS Jack and if it's available in the UK?


 

 I really doubt it.  You could try searching for the Calrad TRRS.  Or this.


----------



## Costia

doublepost


----------



## Costia

I am looking for a 4 contacts female 3.5mm plug
  Didnt find any so far (that aren't for a board)
  I want to make a sony<->iphone headset adapter
  both use a 4 connector 3.5mm plug
  BUT the first 2 connections are reversed (ground/mic)


----------



## Mad Max

Good luck, sir!
  I had seem some TRRS cable-mount female connectors on Digikey and Mouser, but its seems that they no longer carry any.
  If you cannot find any anywhere, buy a chinese TRRS adapter cable and modify it.
   
  Anyone tried this Switchcraft mini jack yet?


----------



## majnu

Quote: 





mad max said:


> This seems to be it.  Seems to be PALIC now.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  Thanks 
   
  I wonder now if I can find some screw type ones as I am not too keen on soldering. This thread is great btw!


----------



## dn2shmb

Does anyone know of a right angle 3.5 mm that has threads for a 1/4 jack? Seems like they should exist but cannot find anywhere...thanks


----------



## Br777

^ never seen this...


----------



## Mad Max

Quote: 





dn2shmb said:


> Does anyone know of a right angle 3.5 mm that has threads for a 1/4 jack? Seems like they should exist but cannot find anywhere...thanks


 


  Qables sells _straight_ threaded 3.5mm plugs, exactly what you want. However, it does not have a casing. You will need to buy a Neutrik mini to give it one.
   
  Edit: oops
  Well, you could always find some cable to mutilate for its right-angle threaded connector.


----------



## dn2shmb

So are you talking about using a threaded straight connector in a right angle case? sry if thats a stupid question bit of a cable newb.


----------



## marcnyc

Thanks for this great list! I had been looking for exactly this!


----------



## PanpandaChan

Definitely a great thread.
   
  I'm in the process of making a new cable for my TMA-1s. Waiting for the parts to come from redco right now.
  Bought some neutriks to start off with. Will probably reterminate them later on with one of the plugs mentioned here.
   
  Pailiccs look great, especially for their price (theres a pair for $10 shipped on ebay)
  Via Blues are tempting but I dont know if I can justify the price haha.


----------



## tzjin

Thanks for such a useful thread! Those are some nice-looking jacks 
   
  Could you guys help me out? I'm planning on recabling my Grado's to have a single-sided detachable cable and needed to find a female 1/8 socket. So after looking around online, I found out that some jacks have 5 pins, like these:
   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Panel-PCB-3-5mm-1-8-Female-TRS-Headphone-Jack-Audio-Stereo-Cable-Plug-K3A-/120812232955?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D290630157424%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4254001669997911555#ht_3183wt_946
   
  and others have 3 pins, like this:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/SJ-3523-SMT/CP-3523SJCT-ND/669704
   
  Could you please explain which jack (or one from somewhere else) would be best for my project? Thanks!


----------



## blaken

The ones with 5 pins are switched jacks.  Read the last section on wikipedia.
   
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRS_connector
   
   
  Basically when you pull the male jack out the L/R will close and the signal will travel to the remaining 2 posts.  You can get either but if you get the 5 or 6 pin ones don't connect the extra pins to anything.


----------



## tzjin

Thanks for the reply! Greqq passed along some useful info about finding the female sockets. When searching, include the keyword "chassis" and look for jacks with knurled nuts that can be tightened down to keep the jack in. 
 I have decided to buy from Amazon/Parts-Express here:
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Panel-Mount-Jack/dp/B000ML4A2Q


----------



## Pasiasty

Do anyone know hot to open ATH-M50's jack? I've tried to unscrew it but I find it may have a connection with these little holes on both sides of the plug.


----------



## Mad Max

I've never seen anyone open up a full-metal (no pun intended) AT plug.  If you are able to accomplish this, do post pics.   =D


----------



## Pasiasty

They've had to assemble it somehow. Like I wrote, I find these two little holes could be the solution but I think it was easier to asseble it but not to open.


----------



## WiR3D

Hey noob DIYer here,
   
  I'm looking to build an impedance Decreasing adapter, and i wanted to which combinations of 1/4" jacks and 3.5mm sockets would fit nicely into one adapter, with enough space for 4x half or quarter watt resistors.
   
  eg ebay 1, Ebay2
  (but not resistance increasing like those, just in more or less that format.)
   
  They type of adapter i want to make is explained here: Impedance Adapters/Cables | Explained & Listed
  The one looks like Rean? but i have no idea on the females


----------



## Mad Max

I think that the Rean NYS240 3.5mm jack + Neutrik 1/4" NP3X can be made to fit nicely together.  Other plugs will have to have a very wide opening for cables because you will have to screw on the barrel of the 1/4" plug.


----------



## LizardKing1

The link Cryoparts link is broken. Here it is: http://cryo-parts.com/index.php/headphone-connectors/straight-mini-plugs
  Those are really expensive anyway, and I don't see the point of being cryo-treated, but the carbon fiber body looks awesome.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





mad max said:


> I think that the Rean NYS240 3.5mm jack + Neutrik 1/4" NP3X can be made to fit nicely together.  Other plugs will have to have a very wide opening for cables because you will have to screw on the barrel of the 1/4" plug.


 
   
  Thanks


----------



## pelegrino

i see you also have grado 80s
  the biggest compatiblity problem seems to be the size of the cable
  1/4 jacks have a large cable but most 3.5mm are just the wires or thin cable
  so 3.5mm plugs don't ususually have a large enough diameter on the cable end
  i got a neutrik r angle and the large cable barely fits ... and then the wires barely fit into the plastic insert in the barrell
  do switchcraft nickels or neutrik straight 3.5mm have enough room for a grado cable or do you recommend another model?
  thanks


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





pelegrino said:


> i see you also have grado 80s
> the biggest compatiblity problem seems to be the size of the cable
> 1/4 jacks have a large cable but most 3.5mm are just the wires or thin cable
> so 3.5mm plugs don't ususually have a large enough diameter on the cable end
> ...


 
  I used switchcraft 3.5mm jacks and rean jacks, the switchcraft ones are definotely much easier, but still nowhere near as easy as a 6.3mm jack


----------



## ChipZ

Did a search but nothing showed up. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the amphenol plug available from redco
http://www.redco.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?search=yes&bc=no&CatalogId=3088


----------



## Picarro

Hello guys,
   
  I need to create a short (10cm) cable and I would love for it to match my ATH-M50's connector. Do any of you know where I can source the exact same 3.5mm jack that is on my ATH-M50's? If you cannot remember how it looks, here is a picture:


----------



## Burnmaester

I may have just found the holy grail connector everyone has been looking for.
   
  Threaded 3.5 connector with solder points and sleeve that goes with it.
   
  google for "ctp-p-353-05"
  its the only thing that will come up
   
Webpage
   
PDF spec sheet
   
  I have not tried to contact them but it may be worth a try


----------



## AnAnalogSpirit

.


----------



## Picarro

Oh that looks nice.


----------



## Bostonears

burnmaester said:


> I may have just found the holy grail connector everyone has been looking for.
> 
> Threaded 3.5 connector with solder points and sleeve that goes with it.
> 
> ...


 
   
  A 1/4" adapter like this one should thread onto that.


----------



## crazyg0od33

hey everyone...I'm looking for some 1/8" plugs for my AD700 recabling mod, and I was wondering if you recommend the Pailiccs TRS jacks?  I'm between those or the XLO HT's, but @ 6.95 per plug, the HT's are nuts, and the Pailiccs I can find (not from US but still the same plugs) for $2 shipped a piece...its from lunashops, I dont know if thats a good place to buy or not?
  But I was wondering which you'd recommend.  Also, I need a TRRS male 1/8" as well, but I was looking for one that has at least a 6mm cable opening, to fit my Canare Starquad cables?
   
  Thanks a bunch!


----------



## link575

> Originally Posted by *Burnmaester*
> 
> 
> I may have just found the holy grail connector everyone has been looking for.
> ...


 
  Checked with the company about those.  This is what they said:
  "[size=10pt]I'm very sorry to inform you that we do not have them in stock. Nor do we have any incoming stock for this item, as this part is not very popular.[/size]
[size=10.0pt]The minimum order quantity for us to start production is 5K."[/size]


----------



## crazyg0od33

Time for a group buy haha


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





crazyg0od33 said:


> Time for a group buy haha


 
  of 5000.


----------



## dxanex

subscribed...great list!


----------



## heystupid

Does anybody know where to buy / have any Supra MP8s to sell to the US?


----------



## dakkar

Hi,

just got an iphone 5 and with the bumper case, my L-shaped connector for my IEM no longer fit. What would you suggest? I need an extension that is as skinny as the original Apple plug.

Thanks!


----------



## unhinged17

This is great.  Just what I've been searching for, all in one thread.  Thanks!!!


----------



## musicheaven

crazyg0od33 said:


> hey everyone...I'm looking for some 1/8" plugs for my AD700 recabling mod, and I was wondering if you recommend the Pailiccs TRS jacks?  I'm between those or the XLO HT's, but @ 6.95 per plug, the HT's are nuts, and the Pailiccs I can find (not from US but still the same plugs) for $2 shipped a piece...its from lunashops, I dont know if thats a good place to buy or not?
> But I was wondering which you'd recommend.  Also, I need a TRRS male 1/8" as well, but I was looking for one that has at least a 6mm cable opening, to fit my Canare Starquad cables?
> 
> Thanks a bunch!




I used Pailiccs plugs and they are awesome, very easy to solder and the opening is wide so you can add heat tube shrink galore. I recommend them. I also bought a switchcraft and neutrik too but those will bust your wallet.


----------



## Exitao

Quote: 





qusp said:


> no I think he's looking for this, you can find it at qables
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Searching through the thread, end to front this time, but I was wondering if there's a female end to match this that anyone can direct me to?


----------



## Bostonears

exitao said:


> Searching through the thread, end to front this time, but I was wondering if there's a female end to match this that anyone can direct me to?


 
   
  By "female end", do you mean an inline jack, or and 1/8 to 1/4 adapter? If it's the latter, then...
   


bostonears said:


> A 1/4" adapter like this one should thread onto that.


----------



## ade_hall

Is there anything other than a Neutrik Right Angle that won't foul the top buttons on my Hifiman HM-801? I've just got one of these but it sits too flush
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-right-angle-rhodium-PLATED-3-5mm-STEREO-AUDIO-JACK-Plug-carbon-fiber-body-/230931907387?pt=US_MP3_Player_Cables_Adapters&hash=item35c49d433b


----------



## FraGGleR

Quote: 





ade_hall said:


> Is there anything other than a Neutrik Right Angle that won't foul the top buttons on my Hifiman HM-801? I've just got one of these but it sits too flush
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-right-angle-rhodium-PLATED-3-5mm-STEREO-AUDIO-JACK-Plug-carbon-fiber-body-/230931907387?pt=US_MP3_Player_Cables_Adapters&hash=item35c49d433b


 
  I want to say that the newest right angled Oyaide plugs are raised a little bit to accommodate cases and might be what you are looking for.  Or you can always make something custom using epoxy putty or Sugru, something I do when I need something low profile or that exits at a funny angle.


----------



## ade_hall

Quote: 





fraggler said:


> I want to say that the newest right angled Oyaide plugs are raised a little bit to accommodate cases and might be what you are looking for.  Or you can always make something custom using epoxy putty or Sugru, something I do when I need something low profile or that exits at a funny angle.


 
   
  Thanks, do you have a link to the Oyaide plugs?


----------



## FraGGleR

This is where I found out about the redesign:  http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery/10875#post_8978153
   
  Not sure who is selling which version at this point.  You might look for the distributor for New Zealand to see where you can buy one.  Won't be cheap, that is for sure.


----------



## scope1992

What's the most expensive plug anyone has seen, or brought? I've recently ordered a pair of ViaBlue T6s small 3.5mm plugs, 24k gold plated. These things can run around 20 to 30 US dollars each! The larger ones cost the same, but I opted for the smalls because they look sleeker.


----------



## musicheaven

scope1992 said:


> What's the most expensive plug anyone has seen, or brought? I've recently ordered a pair of ViaBlue T6s small 3.5mm plugs, 24k gold plated. These things can run around 20 to 30 US dollars each! The larger ones cost the same, but I opted for the smalls because they look sleeker.




Vendors know their plugs are great and they charge an arm and a leg, theViaBlue are overrated and overpriced, I bought both not at that price mark, gratefully not all retailers take you for a ride and found them to be difficult to handle for soldering unless you use an helping hand. There are other easier plugs to solder and they look great like the 45-angle plugs from switchcraft, work of art or the cheaper and good enough neutriks.


----------



## scope1992

Quote: 





musicheaven said:


> Vendors know their plugs are great and they charge an arm and a leg, theViaBlue are overrated and overpriced, I bought both not at that price mark, gratefully not all retailers take you for a ride and found them to be difficult to handle for soldering unless you use an helping hand. There are other easier plugs to solder and they look great like the 45-angle plugs from switchcraft, work of art or the cheaper and good enough neutriks.


 

 It would be stupid of me to even consider getting them at those prices. I got them as cheap as I could find them, around 10-11 USD each, still a little expensive though. If you can find better deals that would be great. My total is around 29-30 USD with tax and shipping. But it seems like most people get plugs for either aesthetics, durability, ease of use, or the combination of the three. In my case I brought them for austhetics and quality material. I'm not too keen on shiny or chrome parts. If there are any similar plugs aesthetically yet cheaper, then I would consider them. There's also counterfeit ViaBlue plugs, but I wont even consider knockoffs.
   
  It seems if I were to get similar looking switchcrafts it will cost around 23 to 7 some for a pair with shipping and taxes, maybe even less. Haven't really look into it.


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote: 





scope1992 said:


> What's the most expensive plug anyone has seen, or brought? I've recently ordered a pair of ViaBlue T6s small 3.5mm plugs, 24k gold plated. These things can run around 20 to 30 US dollars each! The larger ones cost the same, but I opted for the smalls because they look sleeker.


 
  Not TRS plugs, but I've seen RCA plugs at $100+ each.


----------



## Bostonears

musicheaven said:


> There are other easier plugs to solder and they look great like the 45-angle plugs from switchcraft, work of art or the cheaper and good enough neutriks.


 
  I can't find any info on Switchcraft 45-degree audio plugs. Can you post a link? (Or did you mean 90-degree?)
   
  Can anyone provide links to aftermarket 45-degree audio plugs?


----------



## musicheaven

bostonears said:


> I can't find any info on Switchcraft 45-degree audio plugs. Can you post a link? (Or did you mean 90-degree?)
> 
> Can anyone provide links to aftermarket 45-degree audio plugs?




Sorry my mistake, it's 90 degree, they should be readily available from an audio component retailers.


----------



## Spektra

I've orderd these http://www.yarboaudiophile.com/data/2009/y/www.yarboaudiophile.com/db_pictures/201203/27/1332862586813448.jpg
  Comments appreciated.


----------



## musicheaven

spektra said:


> I've orderd these http://www.yarboaudiophile.com/data/2009/y/www.yarboaudiophile.com/db_pictures/201203/27/1332862586813448.jpg
> Comments appreciated.




Never used this specific brand before but it's looking pretty good, I prefer 90 degree connectors due to their low profile.


----------



## Exitao

Quote: 





bostonears said:


> By "female end", do you mean an inline jack, or and 1/8 to 1/4 adapter? If it's the latter, then...


 

 Sorry, lost track of the thread.  I guess I mean an inline jack that uses the same threading.  Well, anything that would allow for an extension cord to connect to that plug.


----------



## Nocturnx

The jack on my Monster Turbines seems to have lost its connection for the left channel.  I'm going to attempt to replace the jack on it.  The stock jack is tiny injection molded and I can't get it open so I'm going to have to snip it off.  Any suggestions on a replacement?
   
  Any comment on either of these?
http://www.redco.com/Amphenol-KS3P-AU.html
http://www.redco.com/Switchcraft-35HDRABAU.html
   
  I'm okay with soldering...


----------



## liquidzoo

I've used that Amphenol jack before and liked the quality.


----------



## musicheaven

That connector is built like a tank, your earphones will go before this connector will.


----------



## crazyg0od33

quick question.  I dont have them yet, but I just ordered a pair of beyerdynamic custom one pro headphones, and I want to make a cable for them.  They have a detachable cable already, but it has a little notch in there to lock it in place.  I think I need a slim connector for it (unless I decide to sand off the little lock mechanism with my dremel - and I think eventually I will).  Any recommendations?  I know they're expensive, but I was thinking of the slim viablue 3.5mm connector because this is the most expensive set of cans I've owned and I want to do a special cable.
   
  Here is an image of the headphones with the cable removed - you can see the locking mechanism in there.
   
  http://europe.beyerdynamic.com/uploads/pics/Custom_One_Anschluss_1.jpg
   
   
  any suggestions for a slim 3.5mm connector?


----------



## musicheaven

crazyg0od33 said:


> quick question.  I dont have them yet, but I just ordered a pair of beyerdynamic custom one pro headphones, and I want to make a cable for them.  They have a detachable cable already, but it has a little notch in there to lock it in place.  I think I need a slim connector for it (unless I decide to sand off the little lock mechanism with my dremel - and I think eventually I will).  Any recommendations?  I know they're expensive, but I was thinking of the slim viablue 3.5mm connector because this is the most expensive set of cans I've owned and I want to do a special cable.
> 
> Here is an image of the headphones with the cable removed - you can see the locking mechanism in there.
> 
> ...




The mini viablue connector seems to be the most appropriate for your application, to make sure it works though I'd measure the female plug diameter and make sure the connector is at or smaller than it.


----------



## liquidzoo

I think if you remove that locking mechanism then almost any 3.5mm plug would work, but I think hearing from someone who owns them and could test that theory would probably help.


----------



## crazyg0od33

yeah I think anything would work if I get rid of that bit of plastic.  I mean, they're coming in in a few days - but since they're BRAND NEW, I dont know if I really want to shave off part of them just yet.  I'll keep looking into it though.  Thanks!


----------



## liquidzoo

You might be able to recreate the groove in the 3.5mm plug case and have it fit.  Would obviously be better to try it on a cheap plug first, and I'm not entirely sure how to do it.


----------



## crazyg0od33

wouldnt want to ruin a viablue connector


----------



## Bostonears

Maybe you could disassemble the earcup and remove the small piece of plastic, rather than Dremel it away.


----------



## Mad Max

Quote: 





musicheaven said:


> That connector is built like a tank, your earphones will go before this connector will.


 
   
  The Switchcraft?  Oh yeah, it might even outlast the user in question.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  The Amphenol?  I bent one accidentally with mild force one time, it is about as fragile as a Neutrik mini.  Of course, both can probably last a very long time as long as the headphone is cared for well.
  It's usually the scrawny stock cable on many headphones that goes before the Neutrik plug ever does, if the plug dies somehow at all.
   
  I gave the Amphenol ACPS-GB-AU 1/4" TRS a go on my HD380, and dang, this thing rocks!  Its contacts seem sturdier than NP3X's and it gets a better fit in Neutrik's female jacks than the NP3X.  It has a three-fingered clamp with "teeth" to get a real good grip on cables inside.  The casing feels a bit less sturdy than NP3X's, though, unless you get the jumbo version, which looks a bit hilarious with its overly fat casing.  The jumbo more closely resembles the NP3X.  ACPS is cheaper than NP3X on partsexpress to boot, haha!


----------



## FraGGleR

I think this is where people were looking for a threaded 3.5mm with 6.3mm adapter:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-35mm-Male-3-5mm-3-Pole-Male-Repair-headphone-Jack-Plug-Metal-Audio-Solder-/310637049553?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item48536936d1


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote: 





fraggler said:


> I think this is where people were looking for a threaded 3.5mm with 6.3mm adapter:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-35mm-Male-3-5mm-3-Pole-Male-Repair-headphone-Jack-Plug-Metal-Audio-Solder-/310637049553?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item48536936d1


 
  There's also these:
   
http://www.qables.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=779


----------



## DMinor

Has anyone used this gold plug from Radioshack? The spring is too long for my LOD so I cut it in half. I love the gold looks.


----------



## Mad Max

A Neutrik mini is a fraction of the price here in the States, so I haven't bothered.  =p
  I know others have, check out the cable gallery.
   
  I once made a mini for another guy using Neutriks but I replaced the casings with gold ones from some fleaBay chinese plugs of the same size for all-gold plugs.


----------



## DMinor

Quote: 





mad max said:


> A Neutrik mini is a fraction of the price here in the States, so I haven't bothered.  =p
> I know others have, check out the cable gallery.
> 
> I once made a mini for another guy using Neutriks but I replaced the casings with gold ones from some fleaBay chinese plugs of the same size for all-gold plugs.


 
   
  This one costs only about 6 bucks from Radioshack. It has three screws attached to the sleeve, tip and ring. I just unscrewed them all and soldered all the wires. The build quality seems solid.


----------



## Mad Max

So it doesn't need soldering then?  How convenient.


----------



## DMinor

mad max said:


> So it doesn't need soldering then?  How convenient.


 

 Yeah you can just clamp the wires using the screws without soldering.


----------



## DomaPhone

My mini-xlr cable for AKG K240's got bent out of shape recently, and I'm gonna need a new one. Are these a viable alternative? *http://tinyurl.com/loxv56y*


----------



## FraGGleR

domaphone said:


> My mini-xlr cable for AKG K240's got bent out of shape recently, and I'm gonna need a new one. Are these a viable alternative? *http://tinyurl.com/loxv56y*


 
  
 No, you need a mini XLR, those are full sized.  Look for a replacement cable for the K701, K702, Q701, etc.  Those should be easier to search for.


----------



## Spektra

To all YarboGY-3.5GB users and Masters at Soldering:

 I would greatly appreciate some advice about soldering the leads to the pin (tip) and barrel (ring). These plugs only have one tab and the two other soldering points are “unconventional”, for me at least.
 Thank you in advance for your help


----------



## Sorensiim

Is the angled Neutrik really our only option for a short, high-quality angled 3.5mm connector? I like the Switchcraft and Oyaide ones, but there doesn't really seem to be an easy way to shorten them. 
  
 By the way - would anybody know what the internals of the Neutriks are plated with? I'm suspecting nickel, but that's going only by the looks of them.


----------



## TrollDragon

sorensiim said:


> Is the angled Neutrik really our only option for a short, high-quality angled 3.5mm connector? I like the Switchcraft and Oyaide ones, but there doesn't really seem to be an easy way to shorten them.
> 
> By the way - would anybody know what the internals of the Neutriks are plated with? I'm suspecting nickel, but that's going only by the looks of them.


 
 Nickel I seems to be the plating of choice for Neutrik connectors.
  
 As for a short right angle you can always do what cogsand gears does and fabricate your own with the Milliput. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery/13035#post_10075273


----------



## Sorensiim

trolldragon said:


> Nickel I seems to be the plating of choice for Neutrik connectors.
> 
> As for a short right angle you can always do what cogsand gears does and fabricate your own with the Milliput.
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery/13035#post_10075273




Thanks! 

Unfortunately I don't think I have the patience nor the motor skills to make that miliput look good!


----------



## squallkiercosa

It seems that Neutrik is the most recognized brand for 3.5mm plugs around here and I don't deny their qualities but they seem to be really bulky. 
  
 I'm looking for the smallest 3.5mm plug to reterminate a pair of broken IEMs and the only thing I can find available on the market is a cheap "sennheiser" plug, or a ranko plug which is (kind of) similar to the viablue system with enough space for phone/player cases.
  
 My question is: How bad are those 3.5mm plugs?
 Thanks


----------



## Sorensiim

Are you looking for a straight or angled 3.5mm plug?


----------



## squallkiercosa

sorensiim said:


> Are you looking for a straight or angled 3.5mm plug?


 
 As long as ihe plug is small, shouldn't matter that much.


----------



## PressureDrop

Would anyone be willing to make me a 3.5mm stereo plug to 3.5mm stereo plug, braide cable, but wired mono? (left & right soldered together)
  
 I am deaf in one ear and would like to use newer headphones, but get both channels - I know it's not stereo, but it's better than 1/2 of the sound! Mixed mono is way better than just right   
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 If not, what are everyone's choices for male plugs these days? I am pretty terrible with an iron, but I'll give it a shot if I have to.


----------



## TrollDragon

They make little Mono adapters that plug right on over the the end of your Stereo plug in 3.5mm, your local Radio Shack should carry them. (As another option)


----------



## PressureDrop

yeah my OCD hurts when I have more plugs than I need


----------



## DingoSmuggler

pressuredrop said:


> Would anyone be willing to make me a 3.5mm stereo plug to 3.5mm stereo plug, braide cable, but wired mono? (left & right soldered together)
> 
> I am deaf in one ear and would like to use newer headphones, but get both channels - I know it's not stereo, but it's better than 1/2 of the sound! Mixed mono is way better than just right
> 
> ...


 
 What is the cable going between?
  
 Is this between a source and amp? If so you'd want to combine L + R signals via resistors (100 ohm or thereabouts) otherwise you could potentially load up the outputs too much, but depends on your actual gear.
 If it's for a headphone stage you would also probably need resistors, but smaller values, say 22 ohms. It could slightly detract from audio quality, but probably not enough to bother you.
 However, adding resistance will completely stuff up the crossover point for multi-driver-iems, so if that's the case, you might be a bit stuck or have to use a more complicated solution.
  
 Many portable devices will also have a mono audio option in the settings, so if you can do it there better option than an external lead.


----------



## PressureDrop

dingosmuggler said:


> What is the cable going between?
> 
> Is this between a source and amp? If so you'd want to combine L + R signals via resistors (100 ohm or thereabouts) otherwise you could potentially load up the outputs too much, but depends on your actual gear.
> If it's for a headphone stage you would also probably need resistors, but smaller values, say 22 ohms. It could slightly detract from audio quality, but probably not enough to bother you.
> ...


 
  
 So for source it is always either my Android or iPod classic --> headphones (unfortunately nothing super HiFi high end, some SMS Audio "Streets" at the present).
  
 I am not aware of any way to do mix mono at either of these sources, but I am happy to learn of new options! 
 What I am currently stuck with are these: 
  
 http://www.amazon.com/Skin-Colored-1-BUD-Earphone-Set/dp/B006SIAROC
http://www.amazon.com/Single-Ear-Stereo-Earphone-rubber-eartips/dp/B006TFF9CY
 http://www.amazon.com/J4MSBK-Earphone-Headset-Enterprise-Microphone/dp/B0018Z2Q2G
  
 None of which are good sound, but all do at least offer stereo into mono 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Before I lost the hearing in my left ear (2006) I had recently purchased some Shure E4s and was liking them ok, but once I was forced to get only half of the sound I ditched them all together and went for several years with no headphone/earbud use. Then I found http://farendgear.com/xdu and tried out their OneGood Single Earbud. Not great, but it at least let me use something. I am now yearning to use any headphones I want (with a plugable cord of course) and figured I would just do a plug the way OneGood is doing on their single. 
  
 If someone were to make an 1/8" Stereo -> Mono -> 1/8" Stereo cord with resistors as you say, that did not have any bulky boxes or anything on it (slim & smooth), I would buy it! I would love braided material for a more durable appearance, but whatever heh.


----------



## PressureDrop

So in researching the Tip / Ring / Sleeve connections, I see that a mono (Tip / Sleeve) would do the same thing as what I was asking for, so I just need to find a nice mono cable and I will get the left / right shorted together?
  
  
 basically what was already said:


trolldragon said:


> They make little Mono adapters that plug right on over the the end of your Stereo plug in 3.5mm, your local Radio Shack should carry them. (As another option)


----------



## TrollDragon

pressuredrop said:


> So in researching the Tip / Ring / Sleeve connections, I see that a mono (Tip / Sleeve) would do the same thing as what I was asking for, so I just need to find a nice mono cable and I will get the left / right shorted together?
> 
> 
> basically what was already said:


 

 This was a Kickstarter project that had reached funding last year. It was designed for listeners with unilateral/single-sided deafness or hearing loss.
  
 http://www.yuniheadphones.com
  
 Or on Facebook
 https://www.facebook.com/YuniHeadphones


----------



## heliguy

Many have looked for these in the past including myself, not sure if it has been posted before but if so here it is again.
  

  
  
 http://www.dx.com/p/gold-plated-6-35mm-to-3-5mm-stereo-plug-soldering-adapter-golden-silver-235802#.U3Jk1_ldV8E


----------



## Bostonears

The above plug is also available on eBay:http://www.ebay.com/itm/310637049553


----------



## meyerovb

br777 said:


> might as well throw this up here too.   Parrots informed us today (see diy cable thread) that Viablue has come out with a smaller mini jack.. its the size of a neutrik.
> here you can see the old large style next to a neutrik for reference.
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 I'm unable to find this calrad L shaped trrs, do you have a model number or something?


----------



## meyerovb

meyerovb said:


> I'm unable to find this calrad L shaped trrs, do you have a model number or something?


 
 Nevermind, found it, Calrad Electronics CAD 30-257 3.5mm 4 pole Right Angled Plug


----------



## GerGa

Are there any diy 3.5mm cable ends that come in "mobile" style? (The kind that come on "mobile" cables from monoprice with a small od in order to fit in a smart phone with a case on it)


----------



## KingBentley

gerga said:


> Are there any diy 3.5mm cable ends that come in "mobile" style? (The kind that come on "mobile" cables from monoprice with a small od in order to fit in a smart phone with a case on it)


 
  
 That's funny, I just took one of these cables, cut off one of the ends and rewired my Sony MDR-7506's because I hated the long cord!!   But, its pretty much impossible to unsolder the tip and reuse it with different wire as the screw-on piece is actually the plastic that encases the wiring.


----------



## KingBentley

gerga said:


> Are there any diy 3.5mm cable ends that come in "mobile" style? (The kind that come on "mobile" cables from monoprice with a small od in order to fit in a smart phone with a case on it)


 
 I don't know why I didn't see these before; check out the Sennheiser plugs at Lunashops
 .


----------



## glinskiboydj16

Were are you supposed to buy Palic jacks I can't find them anywhere?


----------



## TrollDragon

glinskiboydj16 said:


> Were are you supposed to buy Palic jacks I can't find them anywhere?


 
 LunaShops has them...
Link


----------



## WillyW0nka

glinskiboydj16 said:


> Were are you supposed to buy Palic jacks I can't find them anywhere?


 

 Ebay has a bunch.


----------



## CalvinXC

I'm a newbie, looking into building some DIY IEM cables, I just want to know how to solder them? Usually IEM cables have 4 wire and what to solder on ground?


----------



## Bostonears

calvinxc said:


> I'm a newbie, looking into building some DIY IEM cables, I just want to know how to solder them? Usually IEM cables have 4 wire and what to solder on ground?


 
 You should be able to test the existing cable with a multimeter, then match that.


----------



## Greg_R

Has anyone found a good source for TRRS mini jacks?  This is like a 3.5mm stereo jack but with an extra ring (for microphone).  I've found a few plug sources but very few socket sources.  Additionally, the quality level is unclear (will the tabs break, how is the strain relief, etc.).  I'm modding a $150 set of headphones with a modmic and want to run the cable into the earcup (via mono plug) and out (TRRS plug).  Any tips or personal experience would be appreciated!
  
 Options I've found -->
 http://www.showmecables.com/product/35mm-trrs-jack-panel-mount-connector-metal.aspx?link=YMAL
 http://www.showmecables.com/product/3-5mm-Plug-TRRS-Connector-Metal.aspx?link=YMAL
 http://www.qables.com/shop/diy-parts-wire-connectors/mini-jack-3-5mm-conn/4-pole-mini-3-5mm-plug


----------



## TrollDragon

greg_r said:


> Has anyone found a good source for TRRS mini jacks?  This is like a 3.5mm stereo jack but with an extra ring (for microphone).  I've found a few plug sources but very few socket sources.  Additionally, the quality level is unclear (will the tabs break, how is the strain relief, etc.).  I'm modding a $150 set of headphones with a modmic and want to run the cable into the earcup (via mono plug) and out (TRRS plug).  Any tips or personal experience would be appreciated!
> 
> Options I've found -->
> http://www.showmecables.com/product/35mm-trrs-jack-panel-mount-connector-metal.aspx?link=YMAL
> ...


 
  
 lunashops.com has all kinds of plugs and sockets.
  
 Such as this clone Oyaide TRRS
 http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=3326


----------



## nonobio

Hi, I have to repair my earbuds with a 2mm cable (diameter).
 I bought a neutrik NYS231BG stereo plug but it seems to be too big to hold the cable.
 On the neutrik site, i saw that plugs NTP3RC and NTP3RC-B which support cable from 2mm to 4mm.
 Is there really a holding difference ?
 Do you have another product to recommend for this little 2mm cable ?
  
 Thanks


----------



## Bostonears

nonobio said:


> Hi, I have to repair my earbuds with a 2mm cable (diameter).
> I bought a neutrik NYS231BG stereo plug but it seems to be too big to hold the cable.
> On the neutrik site, i saw that plugs NTP3RC and NTP3RC-B which support cable from 2mm to 4mm.
> Is there really a holding difference ?
> Do you have another product to recommend for this little 2mm cable ?


 
 The holding difference will affect strain relief, but you could just build up the cable diameter using heat-shrink tubing for the plug with the larger opening.
  
 I prefer using right-angle plugs with portable devices and straight plugs with desktop devices. Presumably your earbuds will be for portable use, so why not just use one of the NTP3RC plugs?


----------



## nonobio

Thanks.
  


> Presumably your earbuds will be for portable use, so why not just use one of the NTP3RC plugs?


 
 Because i ever bought a NYS231BG and i don't know if i should mount it, or buy the NTP3RC 
  
 EDIT : So i finally bought the NTP3RC.It has a chuck strain relief that hold my little 2mm cable.It was the good choice.
 cu


----------



## pongagt

Mogami W2893 wire with Neutrik NTP3RC-B 3.5mm connectors used to make dslr audio cable for preamp or audio recorder mounted on camera. The lower half of the strain relief was removed and slits were cut in the rubber ends. The holes did not have to be drilled out.


----------



## ThePCWizard

I have a question for everyone,
  
 I'm actually looking for a plug to use on a cable I made for my wired headphones. I'm looking for something that I can attach the wires to without soldering them, just until I can get a new soldering iron. Does anyone know of a good plug?
  
 EDIT: I found this but I realized I need a right-angle plug as my headphones are usually on-the-go with me, plus I use my tablet in landscape mode alot. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Good-Promotion-Excellent-Quality-Golden-3-5mm-4-Pole-Male-Repair-Headphones-Audio-Jack-Plug-Connector/32326031478.html


----------



## MJLavelle

kingbentley said:


> I don't know why I didn't see these before; check out the Sennheiser plugs at Lunashops
> .




There are tons of these Sennheiser plugs on eBay from Chinese sellers. They have to be fake, because they don't even bother to advertise them as Sennheiser. The thing is, they look exactly like the ones you linked to. I'm just sayin.... They are cheaper too - 10 pcs for $8.00. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191764270576


----------



## MJLavelle

glinskiboydj16 said:


> Were are you supposed to buy Palic jacks I can't find them anywhere?




I just bought these not 5 mins ago. I am not at all sure of the authenticity, but the price is good enough that I don't have much to loose by trying them. I do hope you are not in a hurry to get them though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-5pcs-PAILICCS-3-5mm-Stereo-Headphone-Audio-Male-Plug-Gold-Plated-Soldering-/391294913410?var=&hash=item99cc56aac7


----------



## Eudis

Where do you guys get y-splitters from?


----------



## _Wes

Lots of good information here - thank you.  
 And found a good place for ViaBlue 3.5's (a post from '09 on this thread).  
  
 http://www.avoutlet.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=1580


----------



## bassboysam

can anyone recommend a good 1/8 inch stereo threaded plug?


----------



## liquidzoo

bassboysam said:


> can anyone recommend a good 1/8 inch stereo threaded plug?




No barrel, though I'm sure you can find it, and a little pricey (from Europe, if you're not there already):

http://www.qables.com/shop/diy-parts-wire-connectors/mini-jack-3-5mm-conn/threaded-3-5mm-mini-plug-e-g-for-ultrasone

Could probably find one elsewhere, but that's the one I've always looked at. They sell the screw-on 1/4" adapter too.


----------



## SirIsaac

Awesome thread,
  
 I was recently given a pair of HiFiMAN RE-400 ear buds. They sound great but the jack needs replaced. Has anyone tried out the ebay cheap 3.5mm jacks? I seen a few people bought them. Are they any good, how are they to work with, any issues?
  
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/products/hifiman-re-400
  
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Gold-3-Pole-3-5mm-Male-Repair-headphone-Jack-Plug-Metal-Audio-Soldering-Spring-/281243011459?hash=item417b63c983:g:k2IAAOxyB9RS0DbC
  
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Jack-Plug-Connector-Audio-Soldering-3-Pole-3-5mm-Male-Repair-Headphone/291273028664?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140620091118%26meid%3D469a72783f7443cdbaff6b3158e38391%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D281243011459
  
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-3-Pole-3-5mm-Male-Repair-Headphone-Jack-Plugs-Audio-Connector-Black-DIY-Gift/141812571457?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140620091118%26meid%3D1be8207d7577430ba7ccab168d155ba9%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D371474252976


----------



## elecen010

I have never had luck with Amazon or Ebay 1/8 plugs....


----------



## HiGHFLYiN9

elecen010 said:


> I have never had luck with Amazon or Ebay 1/8 plugs....


 
 The only time I go with unbranded connectors is if the plug simply does not exist from a legitimate brand. The quality varies quite a bit, if you order from 3-4 sources, you might get a decent one, but it's a roll of the dice. Even if you find a decent one, they quality can be inconsistent over time. So bottom line, you're probably not going to save any money, just go with Amphenol or Switchcraft


----------



## Paladin79

highflyin9 said:


> The only time I go with unbranded connectors is if the plug simply does not exist from a legitimate brand. The quality varies quite a bit, if you order from 3-4 sources, you might get a decent one, but it's a roll of the dice. Even if you find a decent one, they quality can be inconsistent over time. So bottom line, you're probably not going to save any money, just go with Amphenol or Switchcraft


 
 Both good brands, I particularly like this series of Amphenol:
 The rubber grommet can be removed to accommodate larger cable.


----------



## rikk009

Got myself 
 1. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-5mm-VIABLUE-Male-Repair-headphone-Jack-Plug-Gold-3-Pole-Metal-Audio-Soldering/32627217898.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.55.HbIRf6
 2. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Unique-L-shaped-3-5mm-3-pole-Stereo-Headphone-Audio-Connector-ACROLINK-plug-2pcs/32614289247.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.73.HbIRf6
  
 Waiting for them to arrive.


----------



## Paladin79

rikk009 said:


> Got myself
> 1. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-5mm-VIABLUE-Male-Repair-headphone-Jack-Plug-Gold-3-Pole-Metal-Audio-Soldering/32627217898.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.55.HbIRf6
> 2. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Unique-L-shaped-3-5mm-3-pole-Stereo-Headphone-Audio-Connector-ACROLINK-plug-2pcs/32614289247.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.73.HbIRf6
> 
> Waiting for them to arrive.


 
 Good looking connectors, personally I stay away from the style where you are soldering to a metal piece separated by plastic. I did not see an internal of the straight connectors but they may have the same type of set up. I always try to get connectors with solder lugs for durability and ease of soldering.


----------



## rikk009

paladin79 said:


> Good looking connectors, personally I stay away from the style where you are soldering to a metal piece separated by plastic. I did not see an internal of the straight connectors but they may have the same type of set up. I always try to get connectors with solder lugs for durability and ease of soldering.


 
 Hmm...good point. But my options are quite limited here. As I am a first timer your tip is greatly appreciated. Will see how it goes.


----------



## Paladin79

rikk009 said:


> Hmm...good point. But my options are quite limited here. As I am a first timer your tip is greatly appreciated. Will see how it goes.




They can be soldered to but not as easily as other connectors and looping a wire through a solder lug and then soldering it is always a stronger solder joint.


----------



## Quuz

I'm looking for a plug for my sennheiser HD25. It should be Threaded so I can screw on a 6,3 mm plug since I almost exclusively use it with


----------



## Paladin79

quuz said:


> I'm looking for a plug for my sennheiser HD25. It should be Threaded so I can screw on a 6,3 mm plug since I almost exclusively use it with


 

 Those are not easy to find but if I hear of one I will let you know. Are you trying to replace the existing 3.5 mm? If that is the case and you use the 6.3 (1/4 inch) plug almost exclusively, I would probably just replace it with the 6.3 and find an adapter that goes down to 3.5mm.


----------



## bountyboy87

does anyone know how coax 3.5mm to 3.5mm work ... i try using normal 3.5mm stereo  but not working ibasso dx90 to mojo


----------



## Paladin79

Normal coaxial cable only has two conductors, the center conductor and outside braid. Therefore you can use it for mono connectors but not stereo connectors. Center conductor is hot, braid is ground. Belden makes some quality miniature cable, 1855A that is small enough to use in the body of a 3.5 mm connector and it is very good cable.


----------



## Bambule

Hi DIYers. Anybody maybe knows if the switchcraft mini jack fits the QP1R headphone in? 
Thanks in advance!


----------



## rikk009

quuz said:


> I'm looking for a plug for my sennheiser HD25. It should be Threaded so I can screw on a 6,3 mm plug since I almost exclusively use it with


 
 Get normal adaptors along with new cables


----------



## chaiyuta

To make DIY M2M Cable [USB DAC -> Speaker (Audio Engine A5+)], Among Neutrik NTP3RC, Amphenol KS3PC-AU, Soundcrest, Viablue (Regular), Canare F-12 and Switchcraft 35HDNAU, Which one is the best 3.5 mm. Plug? Or do you have any other recommendation? (I prefer diameter of rear opening 7mm. or above)


----------



## Paladin79

I really like the Amphenol plug you listed but the rubber grommet may have to be removed to use 7 mm cable. I have used the Neutrik but they do not accommodate that size cable well, the Switchcraft and Canare certainly would and both of those are quality connectors and would hold up very well. I have no experience with the Soundcrest or Viablue but the others you listed are all very good quality connectors that I have used and with which I have not experienced any bad results. The amphenol has the extended tip to allow its use where others might not fit.


----------



## zacrobmer

Paladin79 said:


> I really like the Amphenol plug you listed but the rubber grommet may have to be removed to use 7 mm cable. I have used the Neutrik but they do not accommodate that size cable well, the Switchcraft and Canare certainly would and both of those are quality connectors and would hold up very well. I have no experience with the Soundcrest or Viablue but the others you listed are all very good quality connectors that I have used and with which I have not experienced any bad results. The amphenol has the extended tip to allow its use where others might not fit.



I am impressed with the quality of the Amphenol K series of 3.5 plugs. It would be amazing if they made a female that matched.


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## Paladin79

I have not seen an associated female jack from Amphenol but I may try to look around later today if time allows. All of those plugs use proper solder lugs, I hate the connectors that use a round connection point separated by plastic. You are supposed to just lay the wire to the side of this and solder it. I was always taught that tacking a wire on the side of such a sleeve is the worst possible type of solder joint. I know Canare makes a good female jack, my builders use those all the time as well as Neutrik. I have less experience with Switchcraft on such a part but if they build it, you can be guaranteed it is good quality.

Tom


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## zacrobmer

Paladin79 said:


> I have not seen an associated female jack from Amphenol but I may try to look around later today if time allows. All of those plugs use proper solder lugs, I hate the connectors that use a round connection point separated by plastic. You are supposed to just lay the wire to the side of this and solder it. I was always taught that tacking a wire on the side of such a sleeve is the worst possible type of solder joint. I know Canare makes a good female jack, my builders use those all the time as well as Neutrik. I have less experience with Switchcraft on such a part but if they build it, you can be guaranteed it is good quality.
> 
> Tom



Thanks Tom, 

I have some of the Rean Neutrik females (NYS240) and they are good connectors, and used one to add a removable cable to my DT770's. 

I looked everywhere I know to look for the Amphenol jacks with no luck (Mouser, Digikey, Ebay, Aliexpress etc).


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## chaiyuta

I just look up on Amphenol specs. It says for cable diameter 2.5-5 mm. so I can't use it.


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## Paladin79 (Aug 11, 2017)

As I believe I said earlier, you might be able to use it by removing the rubber grommet. I just put a micrometer on the inside of one with that removed and get 6.43 mm. With the use of a reaming tool, I can get that backshell to work with 7 mm cable if I absolutely had to, there is a small lip on the inside that holds the grommet in place. When removing the grommet there is little need for said lip. 
 This is the nickel plated version of that same amphenol connector using 6.5 mm cable.  I am not saying you should do this, I am only saying that if I wanted this connector to work with 7 mm cable......there are ways.


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## hoskoau

chaiyuta said:


> To make DIY M2M Cable [USB DAC -> Speaker (Audio Engine A5+)], Among Neutrik NTP3RC, Amphenol KS3PC-AU, Soundcrest, Viablue (Regular), Canare F-12 and Switchcraft 35HDNAU, Which one is the best 3.5 mm. Plug? Or do you have any other recommendation? (I prefer diameter of rear opening 7mm. or above)


Rean NYS 231BG-LL an support a 8mm OD cable


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## Paladin79

There are plenty of connectors that will support that size, 7 mm would be the max for the Amphenol after a bit of work and one of these is not in everyone's tool kit.


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## akatsuki

Just bent the plug on my Massdrops and the right channel is out. Figure might as well replace the plug.  

Any consensus on what the best right angle plug would be? Preferably something not too bulky.


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## GerGa

akatsuki said:


> Just bent the plug on my Massdrops and the right channel is out. Figure might as well replace the plug.
> 
> Any consensus on what the best right angle plug would be? Preferably something not too bulky.


Not sure on a consensus but I used Neutrik NTP3RC-B right angle plugs and they are nice.  Check it out and see if it looks alright for your application.


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## omegaorgun

JamesMcProgger said:


> Neutrik 3.5 L plug and Calrad 3.5 4 conductor L plug
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Where you get that trrs?


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## Paladin79

FireLion said:


> Where you get that trrs?


That is a Calrad TRRS the likes of which I bought several years ago but are they still for sale? The Neutrik I can buy any day of the week lol.


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## omegaorgun

Paladin79 said:


> That is a Calrad TRRS the likes of which I bought several years ago but are they still for sale? The Neutrik I can buy any day of the week lol.



Yea looking for a solid trrs, I can't find it.


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## Paladin79

They are not easy to find, I want solder lugs on such connectors, not metal cylinders separated by plastic.


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## omegaorgun

Paladin79 said:


> They are not easy to find, I want solder lugs on such connectors, not metal cylinders separated by plastic.



Did you ever use it in the end? If not I would buy it off you. I have a periapt Argon cable and the one they use is too small for the size of the cable.


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## Paladin79

FireLion said:


> Did you ever use it in the end? If not I would buy it off you. I have a periapt Argon cable and the one they use is too small for the size of the cable.



Unfortunately I must have used it. I looked all over and cannot find it now, sorry. I would have sent it no charge I am not really allowed to sell anything on Head-Fi.


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## omegaorgun

Paladin79 said:


> Unfortunately I must have used it. I looked all over and cannot find it now, sorry. I would have sent it no charge I am not really allowed to sell anything on Head-Fi.



No worries! such a robust looking connector it's a pity they did away with it now that trrs is more of a thing.


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## tmb821 (Dec 20, 2019)

I’ve been using these siyear plugs on everything. Beefy, tabbed, fairly cheap. I like em.


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## frank2908

hi, is there. any 3.5 jack for large cable like the Sommer Peacock (dual cable. 4.5x9.2mm) that. is affordable. and easy to solder? I don't like the cylindrical. terminals,prefer. simpler one like rean connector, but they only for cable less than 8mm diameter


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