# B&W P7 Recable...



## eightbitpotion

I ended up recabling my P7s.  I had a hard time looking for a connector to fit, so I modified one (this took about 2 minutes).  Anyway, for anyone that's thinking about making one, I am experiencing SIGNIFICANT transparency and soundstage improvement (twice the Soundstage).  Also, the bass seems to be almost unaffected, but the mids and highs are much better in every way.  I'll definitely order some solid silver and make another cable asap, but just wanted to tell you guys that the stock cable appears to be inhibiting a lot of the potential.  Beware, however, that it makes it appear a lot less "bassy" since the it balances every other range out (but It's extremely natural now).
  

  

  
  
 P.S. Excuse the color scheme.... heatshrink is going to be over everything in the next day or two .
  
 Edit: So I was so appalled by the results of the recable that I decided to "step it up" a little.  Trashed the pictured cable and decided to make a paired cable (using the same strands from before...just doubled).  So I managed to comfortably fit 18g total per channel.  I can easily say that these produce the best audio I've ever heard as of now, and trump the soundstage and fidelity of my old k701s with silver AND my old triple fies with a silver cable.  Protip: If you're planning on recabling yours, go with a twist instead of a litz braid... I'm seeing physical benefits in the earcup.  Also, these are benefiting SIGNIFICANTLY from the extra copper.  I the highs cooled off too, and I verified it with a session of old Metal .


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## Fingerling

Thank you for sharing this.
  
 I want to make (or buy) a good Bowers&Wilkins P5 cable, so I'm interested by any informations on its fabrication.
  
 How much does it cost?
  
 Cordially


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## eightbitpotion

Well I always make a test-run with cat-5 wire to verify proper geometry.  I just used inexpensive termination (infact, the 2.5mm is from ratshack).  My final cable will probably be silver with high-end connectors, but if you're just wanting to try it to see how it sounds, then it should only cost under $10.
  
 The trick is you have to re-machine the phono connector to slim it down.  I've done three of them so far, and can confirm that this is absolutely the easiest, cheapest, and most practical way.  I don't use the outter shield since it's heavily protected inside the earcup, and I heatshrink the hell out of it.  Heatshrink should but up against the nodule inside the cup, and it should get tight right there.... this will prevent any stress that may occur.
  
 EDIT: If anyone needs the 2.5mm phono machined, then I welcome you to send it to me with a returned postage and addressed envelope.  I'll refinish it for you at no cost.  This community has helped me out like I can't believe, so I can contribute a little.


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## starchypants

I love the idea of upgrading standard 'phone cables - have you tried using different types of solder, or even so called 'audio grade solder' to lift the performance further still?
 Great photos by the way, would like to see the final heatshrunk cable


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## phytonix

Fun! I think the bass is a bit too strong right now. And the soundstage is a bit confined, lack of openness. Well, it is compared to my Grado SR325i.


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## eightbitpotion

Just an update. Since the first cable I decided to tweak it a lot, and went with a solid copper. This was the result. Highly recommend this.... I spent an hour going back and fourth between the OEM cable and this one, and this sounds better in every single area. Best of all they just sound more refined now. Plus it looks much cooler .


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## Easylistening

eightbitpotion said:


> Just an update. Since the first cable I decided to tweak it a lot, and went with a solid copper. This was the result. Highly recommend this.... I spent an hour going back and fourth between the OEM cable and this one, and this sounds better in every single area. Best of all they just sound more refined now. Plus it looks much cooler .




When I went to Best BUY to listen to the B&Ws I noticed a nice, thick, material covered cable connected to the demo units, although I did not identify the make. Maybe it was just a sheath over the stock cable.

Those cables at least looked much different than the two types of cables that come with the P7.
However, I really like my P7's sound and looks., with the factory cables.

I do not remember if the stock cables were used at the Apple stores, probably they were.

Thanks for sharing out.


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## KLJTech

easylistening said:


> When I went to Best BUY to listen to the B&Ws I noticed a nice, thick, material covered cable connected to the demo units, although I did not identify the make. Maybe it was just a sheath over the stock cable.
> 
> Those cables at least looked much different than the two types of cables that come with the P7.
> However, I really like my P7's sound and looks., with the factory cables.
> ...


 
  
 My Best Buy "appeared" to be using an AudioQuest Mini-5 cable with the demo pair of B&W P7's. I'm thinking about re-cabling mine with either the 3 meter AudioQuest Mini-3 I have on hand or buying a Mini-5 and using that one.  I picked up the AQ Mini-3 cable (uses 4 identical solid-core (PSC) for + & -) for an extension cable since the one that comes with the P7 is only 48" and doesn't let me use it with my home gear unless I'm sitting right in front of it.


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## esteboune

Hello eightbitpotion
  
 Amazing job
  
 can you give please gave me more detail on your 2.5mm connector
  
 i'm starting to bill a cable for my P7, the headphone connection part is pretty tough...
  
 thanks!


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## Tom-s

Thanks @eightbitpotion for the thread with pictures.
 I'm interested in making a set of cables for my P7's.
  
 From those that made them and used them:
 What cables were best for you guys in terms of sound improvement?
  
@esteboune How did your cables turn out?


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## esteboune

tom-s said:


> @esteboune How did your cables turn out?


 
 great!
  
 i also had to use the dremel on the 2.5 TRS jack in order to decrease the diameter.
  
 i used a hybrid cable pure silver + copper cable
 and braided it


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## esteboune

but then ... i realise that it is a bit useless
  
 you cannot change the cable between the 2 cups, and it is the same that the original one
  
 so i guess those cans cannot really get a sound improvement thanks to cables


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## feifeiqph

Very beautiful job, always liked the design of the P7


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## Tom-s

They sure look very nice! 
 So your cable upgrades didn't change anything for the sound?
 I know the internal part is the limiting factor for the right ear cup. 
 When i find the courage to change that one i'll sure do it. 
 Before that i'd first like to hear an upgrade overal / left with a new cable to see what sort would sound best.


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## Middy

Hi gents I have been lucky enough to get a second hand OPPO Ha1 and they make my P7'S seem like a different headphone. After seeing your Mod I have ordered some 4 wiresilver litz 1 metre A few 2.5mms cables for the jacks to mod and a 4 pin Neutrik XLR + heat shrink. The Oppo has a balanced front output and I wanted a cable mod to try it. How do I wire it up with the P7 balanced. I can solder well but no idea how wire from a 2.5mm to 4p xlr balanced. Or even if it can be done "balanced" with the P7'S single cable. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Kind regards
Dave


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## Tom-s

It will be more difficult to get them working as a balanced headphone.
 Open the left ear cup and see if the 2.5mm socket is a 4 pole (TRSS) socket with 4 wires running to it.
 If so, then just use a TRSS male tot 4 pin XLR for the cable and you'll be set.
 If not, then it will involve some customization. I don't know what they look like on the inside.
 You'd have to rearrange the cables on the inside of the headphone to a TRSS female to make it work (replace the TRS 2.5mm female with TRSS).
  
 Or you could rework the right ear cup so you get a cable exit on that side and bypass the small internal wiring in the headband.
 But again, i don't know what's where on the inside with these headphones. First have a good look and then decide what will be the most easy / best option.


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## Middy

Thank you for taking the time to respond Tom. I have to admit I can solder to Aerospace standards but know electrics like my grandmother. As I have now a decent headphone Amp I wanted to see what a custom cable can do. I think I will just try an experiment with a 1/4 + custom 2.5mm jacks. I went mad with solid silver 4 wire litz 1 meter and have 10 mtrs of silver occ copper coming to play with. I entirely blame Head fi members and a hifi nut at work who lent me furutech silver power cable.... Any advice basic cabling would be appreciated if not keep smiling and thanks.
Dave 8^)


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## esteboune

Middy!
  
 That's a though job...
  
 the 2.5 TRS in the left cup is really tight, i do not believe we can change it...


 the only way, from my point of view, is the dismantle completely the 2 cups, and to do a "traditional" wiring. 2 wires per cup.
  
 The problem is that i do not have a single clue on how to dismantle those cups!
  
 It is so well made.
  
 And the real question remains...:
  
 Will it affect the sumptuous engineering, the sound quality ?
  

  
 I do not dare try it.
  
 i used some pure silver wire previously on the P7, useless...
  
 i tried on several other headphones, there is a true improvement, but if you cannot change the wire until the solder point with the driver, it is pointless.
  
 in the P7 case, 0 improvement, so i went back with a  canare L4es6 cable, it is perfect. Aesthetic improvement....
  
 the only way to really improve the sound quality of the p7 will be the re-wire the connection between the 2.5 TRS jack and the left/right drivers. But what a difficult job...!


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## Middy

I do not wish to destroy my P7'S for small change to sound. I think I will use this experience to make a cable rather than improve the P7. My sowing is not so good. Maybe a heat gun can remove the other cup? but as you say I am not that brave. When my OCC Copper/ silver plate wire comes, I will make a longer cable with a 1/4 male jack. This will be more useful for my OPPO ha1. If it sounds different to my ears I will let everyone know but I am 42 not 24...
Thank you for the reply.
Keep smiling
Dave 8^)


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## esteboune

middy said:


> I do not wish to destroy my P7'S for small change to sound. I think I will use this experience to make a cable rather than improve the P7. My sowing is not so good. Maybe a heat gun can remove the other cup? but as you say I am not that brave. When my OCC Copper/ silver plate wire comes, I will make a longer cable with a 1/4 male jack. This will be more useful for my OPPO ha1. If it sounds different to my ears I will let everyone know but I am 42 not 24...
> Thank you for the reply.
> Keep smiling
> Dave 8^)


 

 Good
  
 i already did 3 different cable for my P7, and obviously the latest one is the best one.
  
 i started DIYing my cable about 3 months ago, and did huge improvement.
  
 My advice, buy a lot of Canare L4E6S, it is GREAT and cheap, you can use it for earphone, headphone, interconnect and PRACTICE !


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## Tom-s

If you look closely to your headphone cups you'll see there's 4 spots on the grey area that are actually hollow (maybe it's more easy to locate them by touch).
 1 is mid top, one mid bottom, one just below the dot on the left and one on the right.
 In those holes you'll find the screws that hold the cup. 
 That's the way to open them.


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## esteboune

tom-s said:


> If you look closely to your headphone cups you'll see there's 4 spots on the grey area that are actually hollow (maybe it's more easy to locate them by touch).
> 1 is mid top, one mid bottom, one just below the dot on the left and one on the right.
> In those holes you'll find the screws that hold the cup.
> That's the way to open them.


 
 hmmm
  
 will look at it tonight...
  
 thanks


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## Middy

Thanks both for taking the time to reply just got a carbon fibre 1/4 trs but ebay seller sent a mono not stereo..
Keep smiling 
Dave


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## Ilja77

Is someone have experience in changing wiring of AKG K702?


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## esteboune

ilja77 said:


> Is someone have experience in changing wiring of AKG K702?


 
 nope sorry


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## esteboune

new cable !


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## Middy

Nice,do you have any assembly pics. 
Keep up the good work
Dave


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## Peridot

esteboune said:


> new cable !




Nice job. Were you able to open the earcups?

I followed Tom-s suggestion, and found the screws on the right and left side. However the fasteners on the top and bottom appear to be some type of rivet.


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## esteboune

no
  
 i cannot unscrew it...
  
 it is turning, but not moving.
 yes, i believe it is a type of rivet.
  
 so i'm stuck!


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## Peridot

esteboune said:


> no
> 
> i cannot unscrew it...
> 
> ...


 
  
 I've actually done some more investigating and found that the rivet type fasteners at mid-top and mid-bottom are not relevant.
  
 There are actually six screws securing the driver mounting plate to the headshell at roughly the four corners, and centre right / centre left. They are difficult to locate under the thin felt layer beneath the earpad, but once removed access is available to the jack and internal wiring.
  
 I'll try to post a photo later.


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## Peridot

Picture above shows the location of the six screws securing the driver mounting plate to the headshell.
  
 I hope to rewire mine this week and will post some more photos of the process.


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## esteboune

peridot said:


> Picture above shows the location of the six screws securing the driver mounting plate to the headshell.
> 
> I hope to rewire mine this week and will post some more photos of the process.


 

 fantastique!
  
 let me know
  
 i will follow your path


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## Peridot

Right, balanced cable modification done and it proved to be pretty straightforward.
  
 I used Canare L-4E5C wire, and this fits very nicely in the channel used by the existing cable and connector.
  
 I've posted some pics below, which hopefully explain the process followed, but let me know if I've missed anything.
  
  

 Headshell opened.
  

 Existing wiring.
  

 Existing connector removed (it simply lifts out).
  

 New cable ready for connection.
  

 Connections soldered and heatshrinked.
  

 Headshell re-assembled.
  

 Cable fits snugly in existing entry channel.
  

 Finished job with 2.5mm TRRS jack plug.


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## audioxxx

.


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## ledzep

Is it the same for the P9 ?


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## JSBachFan (Jan 2, 2018)

Thanks for sharing how to do a balanced recabeling.
I changed my AKG K400s and K500s to balanced. I really liked the improvement in the area of more detailed information and increased stage.

Yesterday night I did extensive A/B comparision between Beyer DT660 (normal), K400 (balanced), K500 (balanced) and P7. K400 balanced won. P7 only managed last place beaten by far in almost any aspect. Only fun factor was the best on P7. So I will definitely recable them and see again ...

Are there other people out there who did it and can recommend switching to balanced mode on the P7s?
And any specific recommendations about which (affordable) cable to buy?

For the AKGs I bought K701 replacement cable and did the rest manually.

I will drive them with FiiO X7 / AM3.


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