# It's Done! Power Cord Shoot-Out-- 22 Power Cords Reviewed!



## markl

[size=small]*Power Cord Shoot-Out: 22 Power Cords Reviewed*[/size]

*Intro*
 Yes, it’s another over-long epic Master’s Thesis from markl. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 This time it’s on aftermarket power cords, and what I learned about them along the way after having *finally* concluded my power cord quest (well, for the foreseeable future, does it ever really *end*?). In this review, I will endeavor to describe and review all 22 of the audiophile power cords I’ve auditioned or owned to date. I will also be rating each one on a 10-point scale on key areas of performance and finally ranking them in order of my personal preference at the conclusion. Those of you not interested in reading the Encyclopedia Britannica of power cords are asked to cut to the chase and scroll down to the very end. Congratulations, in just 2 seconds time and a flick of the mouse you've arrived at what took me 5+ years of agony, experimentation, trial and error to achieve!

*Test Bed*
 Current source: Sony XA9000ES with RAM modifications. Previously: Sony SCD-555ES SACD player with full sacdmods.com modifications 

 Current amp: Rudistor RPX-33 Dualmono Mark II. Previously: Ray Samuels Audio HR-2 headphone amplifier

 As always, my headphones: Sony MDR-R10

*What I’ve Learned About Power Cords*
 --Yes, they make a difference. This difference is on par with (and can be slightly greater than) the differences aftermarket interconnects (ICs) can make. If you can’t hear the differences between ICs, it is doubtful you will hear the differences between power cords either. 

 -- I suspect that the reason power cords seem to effect the sound more than ICs is due to the fact that they appear to actually impact the way the component produces the sound, where ICs only affect the way they pass the existing signal on to the next component. Therefore power cables can influence the sound in a more fundamental way.

 --They require more break-in than ICs, and break-in effects are much more dramatic than with ICs. Try not to rush to judgment.

 --It’s even harder to find a good power cord than IC. There is greater variability in the sound and performance of cords than ICs.

 --Many power cords giveth and then taketh away. They offer substantial gains in some areas, but can take away from key ingredients elsewhere. Or, short of actually harming the sound, they can fall short on some parameters relative to the tantalizing enhancements they provide in other areas. This effect appears to be a factor regardless of price.

 --Power cords are even more component-dependent than interconnects. A power cord that does not show good compatibility with one component, may really shine with another. 

*In What Ways Do They Affect Component/System Sound?* 
 The answer is, “it depends”. Much like with interconnects, it varies from model to model and component to component. If I had to generalize, I would say, *typical* effects of adding a high-quality power cord are:

 --More substantial sound, more “fleshed-out”, greater body and firmness

 --Improved cleanliness of the signal, which equals less grain, improved clarity, and resolution

 --Improved soundstaging, greater sense of air

 --Greater sense of “ease” to the sound

 --Greater sense of energy and power, greater dynamics

 --Lower noise floor, letting you hear into the recording even more

 That said, effects of power cords are not limited to these bullet points, nor does every cord successfully improve those specific areas.

*I’m A Skeptic, Prove to Me That Power Cords Work!*
 I didn’t believe in them either, until I tried one on a lark a few years ago. It had a 30-day no-hassle return policy-- I didn’t return it, and haven’t looked back since. Yeah, I know there’s all that non-audiophile-grade cabling in your walls preceding your fancy new power cord. And then from your walls back to the power plant are miles more. 

 But instead of thinking of it as being the *last* 6 feet of cabling, it can be thought of as the *first* 6 feet. It may be more useful to think of it not in terms of *improving* your system’s performance but in terms of *removing the harm* caused it by stock power cabling. It is also possible that the superior power cords act as a sort of “conditioner” on the power line, conditioning the electricity before it enters your component. Generally, fancy power cords also have superior shielding for rejecting EMI/RFI “pollution”, providing a cleaner transmission of electricity to your gear. 

 My overall experience with power conditioners and especially with power cables has opened my eyes to the importance of having a good, clean power supply to feed your audio gear, it’s truly the “life-blood” of your system, and the effects of correcting shortcomings in the power feeding your gear is not small. 

 If that’s not good enough explanation for you and you have problems with the concept that power cables can effect system performance, do yourself (and me) a favor—just stop reading! This thread is not for you, and debate about their efficacy will not be part of this review or this thread.

 Or, you can try one for yourself and see. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




*How Much Should I Spend On Power Cords?*
 A power cord is not a “band-aid” on a bad component. IMO, it should not be used in the hopes of magically transforming an “unacceptable” component to an “amazing” one; if you have that expectation, you will be disappointed. Putting a fancy power cord on a component that doesn’t already ring your bells is throwing good money after bad. Use your power cable budget and put it toward a better component.

 Does it make sense to stick a $500 power cord on a $150 DAC, CD player, or headamp? I don’t think so. Common sense would tell you you’re better off with a well-chosen $650 DAC/CDP/amp with a stock power cord. A more interesting question is, “is it worth it to put any aftermarket power cable on a budget component of any kind”? I’m not convinced it is. Chances are that component is going to have a very cheap internal power supply; it will be noisy and flimsy with low build quality. To what extent can adding a power cord change that fact? You can feed it lots of clean power, but then it just runs smack into that unit’s potentially inadequate internal power supply anyway. It may just defeat the whole purpose.

 I would argue that expensive aftermarket cords require components with at least mid-fi level or better internal power supplies. My conjecture is that bigger and better-built power supplies will benefit more from adding aftermarket power cords, or at least have the potential for more upside. (Or, maybe more accurately, with an audiophile-grade cord, they will suffer less degradation of performance than they do from their stock cords). YMMV.

 OK, OK, so how much should I budget for power cords already? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well, it’s complicated. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 IME, aftermarket cables are a lot like headamps—they really don’t start getting good until the $250 mark and above. The lower-end stuff just taunts you by first opening your eyes to the possibilities, and then only delivering a partial down payment on what you can now picture so clearly in your mind. This may only succeed in whetting your appetite for something better (and more expensive). The lower-end stuff may not always add enough value to make it worth while to bother with, or, in many cases, they can do several things right, but fall short in enough areas that they will only succeed in frustrating you. Having glimpsed the Promised Land, you will want a cord that takes you all the way there, and that costs money. Sad to say.

 And if you start investing lots of money in aftermarket power cords, you really ought to have gear worthy of them. Or else you end up back where we started this discussion--with a $500 power cord on a $150 component.

 Like ICs, power cords have different “flavors” or sonic signatures. It may be that in terms of performance, you concede that two particular cords are roughly equal, but you happen to prefer the “flavor” of the one that costs $100 more, it’s just more compatible with your gear, gives you greater pleasure. So, is that difference in flavor and compatibility worth the extra $100? Obviously, that’s up to the individual to decide.

 So, long story longer, getting into the power cord game is opening a huge can of worms. Believe me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Personally, I HATE breaking in cables, and I’ve been through so many in the last 5 months, it’s practically depressing. Be prepared to not find the “perfect” power cord on the first try. Or the second. Or the third… Still up for it? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




*Does Thicker-Gauge Wire = “Better Sound”?*
 Standard stock cords are typically between 22 and 18 gauge. Most aftermarket power cords are between 14 and 8 gauge. Shouldn’t you look for the thickest, fattest, heaviest gauge cord to make the biggest difference?

 IME, there is *zero* correlation between power cord thickness and sound quality in a headphone system. In a headphone rig, you are likely looking at adding power cables to your digital source and your headphone amplifier, two very low-power units. There is nothing to gain by sticking an 8-gauge power cord on a 500mw headphone amp that draws 30 watts from the wall total. In fact, from what I’ve read, big heavy cables on low-wattage equipment can actually be detrimental to performance, and one of my experiences detailed below seems to bear this out.

 So, long story short, don’t reject a power cord for your headphone system because it’s “only” 14-gauge. That’s *plenty* fat enough for this application. The gauge of the conductors in a power cord is just one of a dozen possible design factors that make it sound like it does, and far from the determining factor.

*Where Should I Put My Best Power Cord?*
 Put it on your source. It all flows downstream, to the extent you can improve the performance of your source, you can improve the performance the rest of the signal chain. 

*One More Thing Before We Start the Review…*
 I want to extract one of my earlier observations for further contemplation: 

  Quote:


 “--Power cords are even more component-dependent than interconnects. A power cord that does not show good compatibility with one component, may really shine with another.” 
 

Well, you ask, if that’s true, what is the point of even reviewing power cables at all? You don’t have the same system I do, so of what use are my babblings and pontification on this or that cord?

 All I can reply to that is—“good point.” 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In this review, I will try to capture the basic sound of each of the cords that have cycled through my system. Hopefully, I can paint some kind of sonic picture for the reader, so you can have some sense of whether one cable or another is likely to succeed or fail within your own rig. But I will still be critiquing and ranking them anyway, and I will still offer my own opinions on how good or bad they are in terms of absolute performance, but it’s up to the reader to keep these caveats in mind.

*22 Power Cords Reviewed*
 *phew* OK, here we go, hope it was worth the wait. Welcome to the review section. These are reviewed in the exact order I owned them, you are looking at the results of 5+ years of experimentation. In that time, some of these models have been discontinued, but that's to be expected. After the general review comments you will find a series of ratings on a 10-point scale (10 being best) that try to apply a measure to several parameters of performance.

 (Please note: When describing a certain power cord’s “sound”, obviously I am not describing the sound of the cable itself as it is not in the signal path. The description refers instead to the particular *effect* it had on the components in my system.)

*1. Virtual Dynamics (VD) Power Cables*

 Website: www.virtualdynamics.ca

 Pricing: varies

*Review:*
 The Virtual Dynamics products are the ones that first opened my eyes to the possibilities of aftermarket power cords way back when. This new Canadian company was offering an entry-level product, the Power 3, at a special introductory price of $79. At the time, that was one of the lowest prices on any aftermarket cord (since 2001 the power cord market has bloomed into hundreds of models and companies). I was a skeptic, the whole concept seemed pretty absurd, but at that price, I thought, "what the heck?", and I bit. The rest is the history detailed here.

 All of the Virtual Dynamics cables share a similar “house sound”. If their basic sound doesn’t appeal to you, there is no point in upgrading, you only get the same thing but further enhanced and refined. These cables aren’t particularly “neutral”; they do impart their own sound on the music, but I would think that sound would be appealing to the majority of music lovers on Head-Fi, as it’s on the euphonic, ear-pleasing side. I’ve owned almost all of the VD power cables, and each one was a winner in my system. As you go up the line, they get better and better. 

 I’ve owned 6 of their power cables from their “old” line, starting from the bottom: Power 3, Power 2, Power 1, Reference, Signature, and Nite. These ranged in (list) price from $150 to $1200. VD has recently greatly simplified its product line, as they have gone into distribution through audio dealers, as well as being available direct from the manufacturer. The names of their models have changed, but they are the same basic technology and build, with slightly different cosmetics.

 The VD house sound is tonally warm, forgiving, and musical. They are great at taking the rough edges off of digital and making it sound less brittle, more inviting and “analog”, imbuing the music with a very organic, natural feel. They have slightly rolled high-end and a fat bass. They are extremely energetic and dynamic cables that deliver a lot of signal, they aren’t polite or veiled or muffled, but due to gently rolled highs and warm sonic signature, they aren’t fatiguing. These aren’t cables for people who want a dainty, quaint and light-weight sound; instead, they offer a powerful sound with lots of foundation. 

 However, they sacrifice some detail and some air to achieve their sound, which can be a little “thick” and heavy. If your system is on the thin and lean side, these are a great option for adding meat to your system’s dry bones. Bass is extremely deep, firm and “present”, but a bit loose, “one-note”, fuzzy, and non-directional. If your system seems to lack a solid foundation, you could do a lot worse than go with VD cables.

 IMO, the best price-to-performance model in the VD line was the old Reference, which retailed at around $750. It has since been replaced by the David, which costs slightly less and maybe doesn’t have *quite* the same build quality, but should be close enough. Not the last word in transparency, but very pleasant cables to listen to.

 WARNING: the VD cords have extremely poor flexibility, these are heavy-gauge solid-core conductors. You will need at least 6 inches of clearance to achieve a 90 degree bend.

 Flexibility: 3
 Build quality: 7
 Tonality: 8
 Soundstaging/imaging: 8
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 7
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 7
 Value: 7
 Overall Performance: 8

*2. KAS Audio Primus*

 Website: http://www.kasaudio.com/

 Pricing (6ft. cord): $600 retail, $300 direct from manufacturer

*Review:*
 This is my number 2 cable for the Ray Samuels HR-2 headamp. It also paired very well with the Stealth when I had a review sample in my possession.

 Very hard to describe its sound, as this is a very neutral cord tonally. For many people, this cord will do what they think a cord should do—don’t add any fancy commentary or special effects, just enhance the performance of my component, thank you very much. If you already like the tonality of your source/amp, but want the other benefits of a power cord, this is an excellent choice. There is a *slight* brittle-ness to the treble, a bit of thin-ness up top and a tiny amount of fogging in the highs, but this is an *incredibly* minor nit-pick. Outside of that, I can detect no particular colorations, and am at a bit of a loss to further describe its “sound”. It will simply make your component sound more like itself, and improve on what it already does well.

 It performs quite well along most of the parameters of the audiophile idiom, without doing any one of them in a spectacular way that will drop your jaw or make you think you are listening to a whole different component. But you will feel it has taken your current component much closer to its maximum performance level. 

 It has fantastic build quality, and sports a complex design which is very expensive to produce, so at the $300 price, it offers good value. As a nice finishing touch, the female end is adjusted by hand, and provides the best, tightest grip of any power cord I’ve ever had in my possession. A real “sleeper” cord no one knows about that is deserving of a higher profile.

 Flexibility: 5
 Build quality: 8
 Tonality: 8
 Soundstaging/imaging: 7
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 7
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 7
 Value: 7
 Overall Performance: 7 (up to 8.5 on the right component)

*3. Zu Cable BoK*

 Website: http://www.zucable.com/

 Pricing (6 ft. cord): $249

*Review:*
 I know that the Zu cables for the Sennheiser headphones are very popular around here. I’m also aware that the designer behind Zu has an excellent pedigree. So my expectations were pretty high for this cable, which is in the middle of Zu’s power cord line. Well, it didn’t work so well in my system.

 My main problem with the BoK was in terms of tonality, it has an unpleasant coloration that carries over and infects every component you put it on. I would describe the coloration of the Zu Cable *in my system* to be a sort of an aluminum-plastic flavor, if you can imagine such a thing-- a synthetic taint at any rate, not huge but quite bothersome. Also, something in the frequency spectrum is out of whack, there's a slight incoherence to the sound, it can all get confused and muddled.

 The BoK also seems to slightly sap the energy levels of the components it's attached to, they become sluggish, slightly lean, and dark. I felt this cable restrained the performance of gear rather than unlocking its potential.

 Flexibility: 7
 Build quality: 7
 Tonality: 3
 Soundstaging/imaging: 5
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 3
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 6
 Value: 4
 Overall Performance: 4 


*4. Analysis Plus Oval 10*

 Website: www.analysis-plus.com

 Pricing (6ft. cord): $219

 Analysis Plus is a manufacturer who purports to base their designs purely on science and *measurements*. To this end, they've developed some very unique cable geometries (hollow oval) and special extrusion processes that results in “single-crystal” (ultra-pure) copper. Due to these unique design factors, they assert their cables are *measurably better* than other cables, and their trade show booths are famous for doing demos with their test equipment that show the "superiority" of their cables vs. much more expensive competitors. So, if having cables backed up by science and machines that go “ping” matters to you, these might be worth a look.

 But sometimes, you need to actually *listen* to a cable to determine its true value and performance level vs. its measured specs. Listening to the Oval 10s is really something its designers should have done instead of simply taking their machines’ word for it.

 On the plus side, the Oval 10s were extremely transparent, clean and clear with solid soundstaging. BUT they were way too bright and lean and thin in my system. Bass was lacking, the sound has no foundation, and they were fatiguing to me. Yes, they can dazzle you with their lightning fast delivery, they are extremely quick, almost unnaturally so. But you pay for that with a gauzy whiteness to the background, and the aforementioned thin sound and tipped-up, hissy highs that have an astringent, stinging quality. Music sounds “recorded” instead of natural. Edges can be a bit sharp, and when turned up loud (as I like to do), this cable can leave your ears ringing after a very short session.

 Overall—dare I say it—I found the Analysis Plus too “analytical”.

 Flexibility: 6
 Build quality: 7
 Tonality: 4
 Soundstaging/imaging: 7
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 9
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 8
 Value: 5
 Overall Performance: 6 


*5. Tek Line Eclipse*

 Website: http://www.teklineaudio.com/

 Pricing (6ft. cord): $149 list (available for less on audiogon)

*Review:*
 This is Tek Line’s bottom-of-the-line cord, it’s a new product for them, and isn’t even on their website yet. It sports immaculate build quality, and is very pleasing to the eye with a midnight-blue outer molded jacket with silver writing on the side. It looks a lot more expensive than the price you will pay for it on audiogon (I paid around $60 at a special intro price which is now over, instead you can bid on it in the auction section).

 This cable excels at soundstaging, image width is very impressive. It provides a definite sense of 3D space, with a very "airy" presentation, easily allowing each instrument to comfortably occupy its own space. The cable really makes you feel like you are in the studio with the musicians, it's pretty eerie. Great image stability too, everything is very well-defined.

 It has a very clean presentation, with a natural tonality, if a bit dry and a little laid back. Unfortunately, sibilants are emphasized, which sticks out all the more simply because everything else is so well-behaved. There's an area in the midrange centered around where male voices lie that is somewhat repressed and recessed relative to what's going on around it. For me, as someone who focuses chiefly on the vocalist ahead of the musicians, that can be an issue. But the major weakness of the Tek Line Eclipse in my system was the light-weight, gently rolled off bass. 

 Overall, bass performance excepted, this cable performs at a much higher level than it has any right to given its street price. Since this is Tek Line’s entry-level cable, I was tempted to move up the line and explore further, but for no good reason, I regretfully did not. Tek Line has been at it a while, but they don’t have any high-profile reviews anywhere and are still somewhat unknown. Based on what I’ve heard, I think these cables are well worth further consideration.

 Flexibility: 6
 Build quality: 8
 Tonality: 6
 Soundstaging/imaging: 9
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 6
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 7
 Value: 8
 Overall Performance: 7


*6. Iron Lung Jellyfish*

 Website: http://www.2baudio.com/

 Pricing (6ft. cord): $29

*Review:* 
 While perusing audiogon, I came across an ad for the Iron Lung Jellyfish power cord, a no-frills, custom-built hospital-grade 14-guage cable. They have those see-through rubbery molded hospital-grade connectors you see on the Quail cords. They were a mere $29.00 each. What the heck, why not?

 I ordered two of them, put one on my RS Audio HR-2 and another on my Sony SCD-555ES sacdmods SACDP. Let's just say I had *very low* expectations, but I was very pleasantly surprised (I would even say a little slack-jawed *given the price*). Tonally, they are fairly balanced with surprisingly good bass response, though the treble can be a little sugary sweet. They are reasonably clean, but a bit grainier than the best cords I’ve heard, with decent soundstaging (although a little 2-D and flat relative to other cords), relatively low noise floor. These are lively and “fun” cables, toe-tappers, they are quite good at PRAT. Comparing them several times to the stock cabling, the difference could not have been clearer, the Jellyfish represents a significant jump in performance.

 I think if you've ever been tempted to dip your toes in the aftermarket power cables pond, these are a great way to start. I don't think you would be disappointed. At $29 they give you a level of performance that is absolutely ridiculous given the cost of entry.

 Flexibility: 9
 Build quality: 5
 Tonality: 6
 Soundstaging/imaging: 6
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 6
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 7
 Value: 9
 Overall Performance: 7


*7. Absolute Power Cord Mark II*

 Website: http://www.gttgroup.com/

 Pricing (8ft. cable): $49.95

*Review:*
 Like the Jellyfish, the Absolute power cord is one of those very flexible, molded jobs that looks like a hospital-grade cord more than an audio-grade cord. Also like the Jellyfish, it has one of those rubbery see-through molded male ends that hospital-grade cords have, plus a molded plastic female end that matches the blue color of the cable. It only comes in an 8-foot length, no custom sizes. The manufacturer claims that the cable is completely custom built to spec, it is not an off-the-shelf cord with standard wiring inside. It is built and assembled in China to keep the costs down. 

 The Absolute Power Cord is advertised with heavy emphasis placed on its “neutrality”. The designers claim to have honed and refined the design to be the most neutral power cord on the market. Nice things have been said about the performance of the Absolute cord by people I respect. Nevertheless, they didn’t work so well in my system, but perhaps my experience is not typical.

 Sometimes, saying something is “neutral” can be another way of admitting, “it doesn’t do very much”. That was my experience with the Absolutes. They were somewhat foggy, hazy and reserved. Behind the veiling, yes, everything is in proportion with regard to frequency response, but lack of transparency is still a “coloration” to me, and in that sense, they varied from the promised absolute neutrality. Soundstage was constricted relative to some other cables under review. Depending on the listener, they are either really refined, mature, and well-behaved, or a bit dim and lifeless.

 It has a *very* quiet background, but it achieves this by damping down the sound, throwing a wet blanket over it all. Because of this, it’s also somewhat lacking in PRAT and dynamics. If you were trying to correct a problem in your system by suppressing it rather than eliminating it, the Absolutes might be a good choice.

 I tend to like a more open, robust, expressive, vigorous and dynamic sound. I value clarity/resolution very highly. Viewed through my lens, the foggy, inoffensive Absolutes did not fare especially well, YMMV.

 Flexibility: 8
 Build quality: 6
 Tonality: 6
 Soundstaging/imaging: 5
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 4
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 5
 Value: 6
 Overall Performance: 5.5


*8. PS Audio XStream Plus*

 Website: www.psaudio.com

 Pricing (2 meter cord): $279

*Review:* 
 Well, at least it *looks* awesome. This is by far the sexiest looking cord under review. Every piece of this is custom-made by PS Audio to their high specifications. The ends are not the usual off-the-shelf Hubbells or Marincos, but custom-molded and sleek-looking with the PS Audio logo built in. This is a very thick, beefy, and *heavy* cord. Although it’s 8-gauge, PS Audio recommends it for digital sources; they actually have a *6*-gauge cable for amps! Because of the extreme amount of shielding and the heavy-gauge conductors, this is one stiff cord, but still not as stiff as some I’ve tried.

 PS Audio has left no stone unturned in their quest to completely re-think the power cord. They have specific reasons (listed in copious detail on their website) for every single design decision on every single aspect of their cords. Given the general reputation of PS Audio’s other products, their general level of innovation, and the fact that everything is custom on this cord, I had high expectations, and if nothing else, was expecting a cable that sounded like no other. And in some ways that’s what I got.

 Tonally, I noticed right away that it sounded almost identical to a Virtual Dynamics cable. Not neutral or thin, but warm, rich, with that same heavy bass that’s a little loose and unfocused. Same slightly rolled highs, same sense of extra force being delivered with the sound, same extra meat on the musical bones, with a heaviness and real foundation to the sound. And that’s about all that I can say good about it.

 First disc I played after installing the PS Audio on my source was AC/DC Back In Black, the 1994 Ted Jensen remaster with which I am very familiar. I was very perplexed by what I heard. It was as if heavy weights had been laid on top of the band, everything ground down to a halt. This cable is sloooooooooooooooooooow as molasses, like the performers are fighting against a heavy headwind, striving against the grain to make progress. That CD should sound energetic and powerful, make you want to bang your head, but it sounded dull, forced, and lifeless, as if all the passion of the performances had been drained out. I let it burn in for two days (it was a used cable so it already had plenty enough hours of burn in already), and then played numerous CDs and the effect of the cord was always the same. I switched it to my headamp, and that didn’t help either. 

 If I had to guess, my feeling is that, despite being billed as ideal for sources, a cable like the XStream Plus really requires a big beefy multi-watt speaker amplifier with high current demands to “pull” the juice through it to overcome the resistance that seems to be inherent in the cable. Gear like CD players and headamps that don’t draw much current don’t seem to suit it. It should also be noted that the XStream Plus is probably the most heavily shielded cable I’ve ever owned. In addition to the layers and layers of regular shielding, it has ferrite embedded in the jacket. That’s part of the reason the cable is so thick and heavy. From my limited first-hand experience, and based on what I’ve read elsewhere, I’ve never been a fan of adding ferrite clamps and such to my audio cables, I find it “chokes” the sound, and truncates highs. It’s *possible* (I speculate) that all that ferrous material might also be responsible for the cables seeming lack of speed.

 Whatever the reason for its sluggishness, I couldn’t wait to get this cable out of my system. 

 Flexibility: 4
 Build quality: 8
 Tonality: 7
 Soundstaging/imaging: 6
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 2
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 6
 Value: 6
 Overall Performance: 4


*9. VH Audio Flavor 1 & 2*

 Website: www.vhaudio.com

 Pricing (6ft. cord): $103.99 - $114.99 (depending on Model and features selected)

*Review:*
 VH Audio is a relatively new company, helmed by Chris VenHaus. VenHaus made his name on audioasylum by offering DIY-ers home-brewed recipes for power cables based on standard Belden wire. He apparently got so many requests from technically unskilled audiophiles for his cables that he eventually went into business for himself. His cables now apparently do not use off-the-shelf wire, but wire that has been custom-built to his spec. He also has his own trademark “counter-spiraled ground” which I won’t attempt to describe except to point out that it is clearly visible under the sheath of his cords as an individual wire outside of the main bundle that wraps around his cords. 

 Chris VenHaus offers several different “flavors” of power cords, each a subtle variation on his basic design, that he has deemed most compatible with each type of audio component. I ordered a cryo-treated Flavor 1 for my digital source, and a non-cryoed Flavor 2 for my headamp.

 Man, did I HATE these cords when I first plugged them in. They were incredibly raw, poorly-behaved (actually out of control), frayed at the edges, white of background, frazzled and aggressive highs, with all kinds of frequency anomalies, and no soundstage to speak of. Chris VenHaus does caution you in advance that his cables require a lot of burn-in, possibly more than other cords. Well, based on my initial impression, I didn’t even want to bother waiting for them to burn-in-- I was ready to chuck them, as I’d never heard any cable or component change enough through break-in to compensate for what I was hearing from the VH Audio cords. Nevertheless, I left them there while I plotted my next move.

 And much to my amazement, after 3 weeks, they were a very different animal, and quite enjoyable on their terms. The VH Audio cables are quite energetic, lively, extremely fun and engaging. They are a great choice for people who really like to rock out, play air drums and air guitar, and bang their heads while listening to their tunes. They are very dynamic, fast, hard-driving and rhythmic. Bass is the best I’ve heard in a power cord, if best is measured by going deepest and playing loudest and hardest. These cables are ferocious, barely-tamed beasts, and they came to party. If you like to listen as an active participant in the music, they’re sure to excite you in the deepest recesses of your lizard-brain.

 That’s the good news. The bad news is that while these cables most definitely rock, they just don’t do finesse. Or soundstage. They are heavy-handed and aggressive, and they aren’t adept at the little nuances that many audiophiles get off on. Low-level detail? Nope. Air and space? Nope. Midrange lushness? Uh-uh. Sublime treble response? Fuggedaboudit. Subtleties just aren’t their bag, and get lost or just hammered away. 

 Still, in the right system for the right listener, they should really hit the spot. At this point in the quest, my ideal was to find a cable that could deliver the fun factor and dynamics of the VenHaus without losing all those little subtleties that are just as important in good/accurate music reproduction. I really did enjoy the VH Audio cords for what they were, and I miss their bass response. A lot.

 WARNING: these are some of the stiffest, least accommodating cords ever made, they have a mind of their own. They have a rubbery tube around them that positively refuses to accept any shape you want to bend it in-- it just INSISTS on going its own way no matter what, refusing to be bent and to STAY. It automatically flexes back to its original configuration. You will have a devil of a time trying to get the female and male ends (especially the male end) to stay seated in their sockets or outlets. I could never quite succeed at getting a solid connection to the wall outlet, the cable always was displaced slightly, hanging down and out of the outlet, exposing a small part of the male prongs. While this may not affect the quality of the connection electrically, it’s still very frustrating and unsettling to look at. 

 Flexibility: 2
 Build quality: 6
 Tonality: 7
 Soundstaging/imaging: 4
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 9
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 6
 Value: 8
 Overall Performance: 7.5


*10. Custom Power Cord Company Model 14 Series 2*

 Website: None. Out of business.

 Pricing (6 ft. cord): $260 (retail when new)

*Review:*
 Custom Power Cord Company (CPCC) was a very respected brand a few years ago, before they went out of business. Their higher-end cables won many awards and were included in several of the Stereophile reviewers’ reference systems.

 Yet another extremely stiff cord. This one has a very thick garden-hose like rubber tube surrounding it with lots of air in between the outer shell and the internal wires, presumably to provide an air dielectric (but I can’t say for sure the purpose as there is no longer any website to refer to). Also refuses to bend in a 90 degree angle, and when it does, it causes the outer shell to sort of crimp up on itself at the point where it flexes.

 This was an enjoyable cable. Very level-headed, neutral in tonality, except for a slight bass roll-off that was the ultimate reason I sold it. Very adept at portraying soundstage and air, nice 3D imaging. Definitely puts you right there in the studio with the musicians. Decent “palpability” factor, if a little reserved and polite. Very nice sparkly, effervescent highs, no roll-off, but not aggressive. 

 It’s a real pity it’s missing that extreme low-bass information. It needs more grunt, more foundation, and firmness. Otherwise, a very pleasant cable and a solid performer for the money.

 Flexibility: 2
 Build quality: 7
 Tonality: 7
 Soundstaging/imaging: 8
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 6
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 8
 Value: 7
 Overall Performance: 7.5


*11. Audio Metallurgy Gold Alloy 9*

 Website: www.audiometallurgy.com

 Pricing: ~$1200 (fake “list price”, these are sold on audiogon auctions for around $250)

*Review:*
 Many new cable manufacturers start out by auctioning their cables on audiogon. In doing this, they often create wildly inflated list prices to try to make people bid higher, or to believe they’ve gotten a really great bargain. (“Wow, I just won a $2000 cable for $400!). The reality is that no one ever purchases at the alleged list price, all items are sold through the auction process, resulting in street prices much lower than the inflated list.

 Some people find the practice dishonest or deceptive. Personally, it doesn’t bother me that much, you can always look at the build quality to determine if you got a good deal or not. And when I paid $200 for a cable where the IEC connectors *alone* cost roughly $150 retail, I just can’t be bothered to get all that worked up about the practice. 

 Audio Metallurgy is “new” but their designers have made cables for several other companies. There are a number of other small mom and pop companies that advertise similar-looking products in audiogon’s auctions; they all share a familiar braided design with similar gold/silver/copper alloy wire conductors. This wire is actually made by Audio Metallurgy for them. Furthermore, the actual Audio Metallurgy cables use thicker-gauge configurations with more strands of this expensive wire, so you get more of the gold alloy wires for your money, *and* they deep-cryo treat it for 168 hours. They top it off with some of the most fancy IECs on the market, the Furutech 25 series gold connectors which retail at $75 a piece. 

 Well, given the build quality, the great connectors, the gold alloy and the good price I got the cable for, I was really anticipating the arrival of this exotic cord. If nothing else, it would surely sound very different than any other power cord I’d tried so far, and so it did.

 There’s a fine line between smooth and soft, between lush and syrupy, between liquid and soggy, between sweet and sickly sweet, and the Audio Metallurgy crossed all of them for me. Not a tonally neutral cord, it has a distinct flavor that will either thrill the owner or completely turn him off. Highs are so sweet, they’ll give you a toothache. Midrange is so warm and fluid, it’s kind of “gooey” and overly honeyed. Bass is also very warm and slightly gentle and unfocused.

 This is not the most dynamic or incisive cable on the block either. It’s fairly restrained and polite. It’s not the most transparent cable either, there is a whiteness to the background, and its lazy attitude keeps it from digging up all those tiny little details that can excite most audiophiles. While very easy on the ears, it lacks life and excitement. Edges are too blunted and warm and fuzzy to stay interesting or engaging for very long. It is quite grain-free and clean, however.

 I concede that some people will surely *love* what this cable does, even if they have to admit in turn that it deviates greatly from any sane definition of “neutral”. I can see this maybe finding a use in a solid-state system where someone wanted to add a little flavor, or rid the system of the etching, grain, roughness, hardness, sharpness or some other typical misbehavior common to solid-state gear. I think that in a tube-based system this would just be too much—way way too much. YMMV.

 Flexibility: 9
 Build quality: 8
 Tonality: 5
 Soundstaging/imaging: 7
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 4
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 6
 Value: 7
 Overall Performance: 6.5


*12. TG Audio 688*

 Website: www.tgaudio.com

 Pricing (6ft cord): $350

*Review:*
 TG Audio is the name of Bob Crump’s cable company. Like Chris VenHaus, Crump is well-known on audioasylum for providing recipes for home-brewed cables that have been quite popular there in the past. Also like Chris VH, his own branded cables are very different (and greatly improved with special wire that’s not off-the-shelf) from the home-brews made from his designs. He’s been making his own power cords for some years (he started in the early 90’s I believe), which means that the 688 is a very mature product arrived at after years of experimentation. It replaces a number of earlier models. His web-site is beyond minimal, his seems to be mainly a word-of-mouth operation. And after lots of research, I couldn’t find anyone on audioasylum who had one bad thing to say about any of his cords. So I bit.

 Like the VH Audio cables, both users and Crump himself report a longer than average burn-in period with the TG Audio cables. I can confirm the 688 does have some issues prior to break-in. I have around 450 hours on it, and it seems to have settled in, though Crump recommends 30 days or 700 hours to get fully cooked.

 This is the best cable I’ve had so far—on my source. I don’t care for it especially on my headamp. It almost sounds like two entirely different cables on each position. This review reflects its performance on the sacdmods Sony 555ES only.

 Tonally, this is a very neutral cord. Except for a bit of glare upstairs (which I am optimistic could be reduced with further break-in), I am unable to find fault with its presentation of anything else across the frequency spectrum, it is very consistent and coherent, nothing sticks out as being “wrong”. Very natural sound, instruments and voices sound like they are supposed to. Bass is excellent, if not quite as pronounced as the VH Audio cords.

 This cable is a soundstaging champ. HUGE soundstage, with an eerie sense of *depth* to the image, more than I’ve ever heard before. Each musician is firmly ensconced in his own space, this is a very airy cable. It is the best I’ve heard in terms of ability to portray small sounds/events at low volume, and big/loud events LOUDLY, incredible dynamic range. Sounds remain distinct from one another, there is no jumbling or mixing, blending, or blurring together into a muddled, incoherent mush. It has an effortless feel to the presentation, it’s never breaking a sweat, no matter what you throw at it.

 PRAT/dynamics and speed are first rate, it’s not quite the aggressive monster that the VH Audio cables are, but it comes pretty close. This is a powerful cable, very incisive, direct and firm. When big crescendos are required, it doesn’t hold back, it can deliver them all with authority. It’s a very lively, entertaining and engaging cable, one of those rare components that makes you want to grab every CD in your collection and hear them for the first time all over again. The TG 688 really brings the music to life in a very exciting way.

 Where The TG 688 differs from the VH Audio cables is chiefly in its ability to get the slam, crash and bang down without sacrificing the subtleties in the process. This cable does both dynamics *and* finesse. This is a very versatile cable, comes pretty close to doing it all. It’s not the most dynamic cable I’ve ever heard, nor the most detailed and refined, but it offers a very nice balance of both. If you cherish either end of the scale, it won’t disappoint.

 I would rate this cable near the top of the heap in terms of transparency and resolution. It has the black background, low noise floor, and plenty of micro-details. It has very good clarity and low grain level (although not quite the cleanest in this review sample). It has an open sound that invites your mind to come on in and take a wander around the soundstage. It’s quite a realistic and vivid presentation.

 All that said, on my headamp, it lacked a little air, and was a little foggy; it didn’t strike me as anything particularly special in that position (but it certainly doesn’t sound *bad* by any stretch). As I mentioned at the outset of this review, it’s important to try your new power cord on all your components to see where it fits best, you may be surprised at how it affects different kinds of gear.

 Flexibility: 5
 Build quality: 7
 Tonality: 9
 Soundstaging/imaging: 9
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 9
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 8
 Value: 8
 Overall Performance: 9


*13. Michael Wolff Silver Carbon Source*

 Website: www.wolffaudio.com

 Pricing (6ft. cord): $550

*Review:*
 You may recall I recently wrote a gushing review of Michael Wolff’s Silver/Gold/Carbon interconnects (http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showt...ghlight=wolff). They are by far the best ICs I’ve ever had in my system. As it turns out, Wolff is primarily known for his power cords rather than his ICs. His latest revision of his Source power cord uses silver ribbons along with Wolff’s trademark carbon conductors. They are terminated with the extremely cool Oyaide P-046 and C-046 (orange in color) IECs. These are their top-of-the-line and run $115 *each* retail. Oyaide is another specialized Japanese company like Furutech specializing in high-end wire, connectors, power strips and the like. 

 Wolff sells two flavors of power cord, one for multi-watt amplifiers (called the Gain), and one for components that draw less than 350 watts of power called the Source. The Source cord can of course be utilized on more than just digital front-ends, and is ideal for headphone amps, pre-amps or other gear that draws far less than 350 watts. It’s a very supple, pliable cable that is flat instead of round, and is very easy to work with. In addition to looking sexy, the Oyiade ends grip nice and firmly. 

 The Wolff Source cord bears a strong resemblance in several key ways to his ICs, and that’s all to the good. It could not possibly be any cleaner or free of distortion. Zero grunge, zero grit, zero grain, the music just *is*. It is beyond immaculate; you get the entirety of the audio signal totally uncompromised. This is a very scintillating, refined, assured, and sublime cable. The sound has the power to delight and elate the listener at every turn. 

 Music through the Wolff cord is able to just *breathe*; I don’t think it’s possible to provide more air than this cable gives. Like his ICs, the most remarkable thing about Wolff’s Source cord is the pure *ease* with which they deliver the sound. I’ve been reading up on descriptions of other cables that utilize carbon in their design, and most reviewers/commentators seem to hit on the same thing—there’s a flowing effortless quality to the way music just pours out of them. 

 The Wolff cord is the least fatiguing cable I could ever imagine. But it doesn’t achieve that by truncating the highs by politely rolling them off. Because it’s so clean and clear, it’s able to present highs in their entirety in a way that does not prick or pierce the ear. This is the most extended top-end of any of the cables under review by a fair margin. If you are a treble aficionado, the way there are bass-heads, look no further, you’ve found the Holy Grail. Highs shimmer and glisten, tantalize and caress the ear in a beautiful way. There’s a lushness there that never bleeds over into the sickly-sweet like the Audio Metallurgy cable can. Cymbals have never sounded better, Wolff’s power cords and ICs do cymbals better than I’ve ever heard them. At last, digitally-rendered cymbal crashes sound like they are supposed to, they fully resolve without breaking up into abrasive white noise. All in all the best treble I’ve heard in a power cord so far.

 Midrange is lush and present, vocals sound fantastic, Wolff’s cables let you hear words that other cables garble. The mystery of what the heck your favorite singer is singing in your favorite song may finally be resolved with the Wolff cord. I wouldn’t describe the midrange as “warm” but it isn’t cold or analytical, either. It’s just about right. I am constantly surprised at how different recordings sound *different* with Wolff’s Source cord. The individual character of the recording really comes through in a distinct and unique way. It does not homogenize the sound or leave its stamp on everything it touches.

 The Source cord throws an *awesome* soundstage. It can tackle the tiniest bits of micro-detail with aplomb. The noise floor does not exist on this cable, if it’s in the recording, and your component is capable of delivering it, the Wolff cord will help it serve it up for your perusal. No stone is left unturned. Incredibly sharp focus and high resolution without the jagged “crispy” edges that mar other cords. Everything is just “there” for you to take or leave at will, it’s a subtle, nuanced cable that isn’t going to shove everything right under your nose in a rude or intrusive way.

 In terms of speed, I have no complaints. It can strike like lightning when required. There are no noticeable strings attached to the sound, it feels like its totally free and unfettered, but because the Source cord is so distortion-free, it all stays firmly focused, coherent and precise. 

 But I am not wholly without a few minor reservations about the Source cord—on my source. My main concern is the way it handles bass which is very different than any other cord I’ve heard. Many aftermarket power cords appear to add weight to the bass to some degree when compared to a stock cable. If your system is lacking in bass weight, that can be an important advantage. My system is built around the R10, which despite all its other charms, I have to admit rolls the bass gently down below, so it needs any extra oomph you can feed it, however artificial. 

 After several weeks with the Wolff cord, I was resigned that it was never going to be a bass monster, although it was clearly a very fluent speaker of the bass language. Then, one day, I threw on Chemical Brothers "Surrender" CD and cued up the track “Under the Influence”, which about 30 seconds in has this *incredible* bass drop where this HUGE slab of electronic bass comes in and starts out at the high end of the bass spectrum and slowly drops down to the very lowest lows the CD format can deliver. All of a sudden, on this track, here was the “missing” bass! Well, where had it been? 

 Befuddled, I downloaded a big set of bass test tones from the web, and dusted off my trusty Radio Shack digital SPL meter. I then proceeded to take several sets of measurements of the bass performance of my system with the Wolff cord on my source and without. I was expecting to see a slight drop off in the Sony R10’s bass response with the Wolff cord attached, but to my surprise, it was stone cold *identical* to the control (VenHaus plus Crump) every single time, and a db or two *louder* than a control set-up with a stock cord in the signal chain (Crump + stock). 

 How is that possible? How is it that the VenHaus gives the illusion of more bass than the Wolff cord even though they measure the same? I puzzled over this for some time and did more listening to the Wolff cord. My ultimate conclusion was that the Venhaus cord is sort of the “cable that cried wolf” (please forgive the pun 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) when it comes to bass. I hypothesize that when feeding a musical bass signal (as opposed to a flat test tone), it gets over-excited and exaggerates the response. Individual bass sounds and tones and volume levels get mixed up and it replies with the same bass force to every call for a bass signal of any size. In contrast, the Wolff cord is much more precise, and able to distinguish subtle shadings of bass tones and volumes, and only dips low when the music asks it to, as it did on the Chemical Brothers track I mentioned earlier. 

 Either that or what we *perceive* in bass response as greater “firmness”, “presence”, “solidity”, “authority” or whatever catch-phrase, may be one of those unmeasureable psycho-acoustic phenomena. Or behind door number three we have the limitations of my test, my tools, or my methodology. Take your pick! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Nevertheless, in a system like mine with the R10, I can’t always afford to have a neutral bass response, I need a cable that sometimes cries wolf, and the Wolff cable is not that cord (still follow me? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ). At least not on my source. When I switched the Wolff cord to my headamp and put the Crump cord (TG 688) on my source-- holy cow!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 My system has *never* sounded better. The Wolff cord makes a *perfect* match for the Ray Samuels HR-2, and I am experiencing no bass roll-off in that position. The HR-2 has been elevated to whole new level (and it was *mighty* impressive to begin with). The Wolff cord affects the stubborn HR-2 more than any other cord I’ve tried in a very positive way. It brings the airiness, the soundstage depth, and the delectable highs to HR-2, increasing the sense of "open-ness" by several degrees. Because the HR-2 also has a low noise floor (which some have dubbed its “blackground”) it is further enhanced by the Wolff Source cord. Sounds really do emerge out of nothing. It’s too bad the cord costs roughly two-thirds what the amp itself does, they make beautiful music together.

 To summarize, the Wolff cord needs to be paired with the right component and the right listener. If you like to listen loud like I do, its unfatiguing nature is positive boon. It will protect your ears by preventing distortion and piercing highs from causing them harm. You can rock out enjoyably and safely at ridiculous volume levels (not that I recommend this, of course 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ). However, I think for people who like to listen at more sane levels or even low levels, I wonder if the Wolff cord might come across as a little glassy, a little tame, one might actually desire some artificially added zing and bite to keep your mind interested. 

 Still in all, the Wolff Source cord provides a very unique sound that none of the other cables can match. It isn’t colored tonally, so it’s not a matter of preferring or rejecting its special “flavoring”, I don’t think. I do think that if someone was to find the cord unsuitable in a particular application it would be on the basis that they might mistake the lack of distortion as some kind of coloration in itself. It will certainly sound “different” than other more conventional cords, but IMHO that’s down to superior performance, purity of signal, and freedom from fatigue-- not a "coloration" but rather the absence of one. Or, they might wish for some extra firmness downstairs, whether that is natural or not. I think those are all fair objections, we each need cabling that compliments our tastes and needs best, whatever its particular colorations may be.

 Flexibility: 8
 Build quality: 9
 Tonality: 8
 Soundstaging/imaging: 9
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 8
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 9
 Value: 7
 Overall Performance: 9


*14. Straight Wire Blue Thunder* 

 Website: www.straightwire.com (Blue Thunder is not yet up on the site.)

 Pricing (2 meter cord): $250.00

*Review* 
 Straight Wire has been around for some time, they have lots of distributors and can be found in many of your local hi-fi shops. For such a (relatively) large company in the cable business, their website is surprisingly incomplete. The Blue Thunder power cord is still not listed (though they tell me it will be soon), despite being on the market for almost two years.

 Straight Wire sent me the skinny on the cable separately, so I can share it with you. It's a solid-core design with several ultra-high-purity 18-gauge solid-core copper wires wound together to form each 12-gauge pole. The use of these relatively thick solid-core wires is said to help combat strand interraction that plagues many multi-strand designs. It has Teflon insulation for the best EMI/RFI rejection, and the conductors are encased in a professionally molded cord for reduction of vibration, topped off with Hubbell terminations. These conductors are not just loose inside a techflex outer sleeve like many brands of more home-brewed-style recipes. One would assume that this construction method would increase Straight Wire's costs for producing the wire that makes up the Blue Thunder, as obviously, the wire would have to be professionally built and molded. The cord can also be used for both high-current multi-watt amplifiers *and* front-end equipment.

 I would describe the sound as remarkably neutral tonally (as I have discovered and detailed here, most power cords are not). This makes it harder to describe its "sound". It's extremely clean, with lots of body and firm, if controlled bass. The Blue Thunder puts a lot of "flesh" on the musical bones, somewhat like the Virtual Dynamics cables (which are also based on even thicker solid-core wires). But the Straight Wire lacks the VD cable's tonal coloration that depending on the listener is either very pleasant, or an annoying deviation from neutrality.

 It is not a slow or a fast cable, it's just about right. It has a very unfatiguing, mellow sound due to its relaxed but firm and authoritative nature. Image stability is excellent, as is soundstage height and width. Reasonably detailed, but it does not force those details in an "in-your-face" sort of way, its laid back nature leaves them there for you to discover on your own.

 Overall, The Blue Thunder is a strong performer, offers above-average value at a reasonable list price ($250). It is tonally neutral, if a bit "thick"-sounding, which may be advantageous for folks trying to alleviate a slightly "thin" system. I think this cable would appeal to many who value a relaxed and engrossing sound, rather than a head-banging hyped-up "exciting" or forward sound. Definitely worth a look for the right listener.

 Flexibility: 5
 Build quality: 8
 Tonality: 8
 Soundstaging/imaging: 7
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 7
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 7
 Value: 7
 Overall Performance: 7.5


*15. Volex 17604* 

 Pricing (6 ft. cord): $8-$12.00

*Review* 
 In other threads on this site, this cheap Volex cord has been compared favorably to cables costing 30X its price. The 17604 is the shielded version of Volex's basic cable which features wire made by Belden. How does it stack up for this reviewer among all the various cables I've had so far?

 Surprisingly well. Let me amend that-- shockingly well (qualifier-- given the price). I can say that this power cord easily and handily beats out several of the much more expensive cables I've reviewed so far. To put that statement in perspective, though, as you've read, there are a number of fancy power cords I didn't care for at all, so it's in that context that this cheap Volex stands out ahead of them. 

 But saying the Volex is better than cables I really detested is not the same as saying it compares favorably with the really good aftermarket cables. A better, more fair and interesting comparison is against another mass-produced budget cable I think very highly of-- the Iron Lung Jellyfish. 

 I was quite surprised at the difference between these two budget cables. I suspected they would sound quite similar, but they don't. 

 The unshielded Jellyfish is much more extended at both ends-- there's clearly more treble and much more bass. The Jellyfish is more "hi-fi" sounding, where the Volex is more "natural" and warm. The Volex has the "tone" thing down. It *harmonizes* very well. It sounds very "real" and natural. In contrast, the Jellyfish has more "glare" than the Volex, sounds are more "recorded" than real, yielding an artifically sweetened sound. Tonally, Volex focuses more on the mid-range, Jellyfish more on the lows and the highs. Neither one is completely right; one has a smiley-face EQ (Jellyfish), the other a frowny-face EQ (Volex). Overall, the Volex is easier on the ears, the sound is "thicker", and less "exciting". If you want to relax into the sound, the Volex would be a better choice, but if you want to be a participant, rather than just an observer, the Jellyfish makes more sense.

 The Jellyfish definitely is superior to the Volex in terms of PRAT and sheer slam. It's a much more forceful, impacting and energetic cable. In terms of soundstaging, the Volex is smaller, moving you back a couple rows. The Volex has less "air" and dimesionality than the Jellyfish, making it seem somewhat 2-dimensional and flat. They are roughly equal in terms of detail/resolution.

 I estimated I switched out these two budget cables at least 30 times doing this comparison. This was a royal pain in the butt. It took quite a while to decide which one I preferred, it was not clear-cut. Overall, these are both terrific budget cables with different strengths and weaknesses, I think it comes down to where you are more willing to compromise. I can live without the extended highs of the Jellyfish (which can sound somewhat artificial), but the deal-breaker for me on the Volex is its pretty severely rolled bass response. I need every last drop of bass I can get, and the Volex withholds a little too much to overlook. And that's a shame because it's so tonally attractive and natural, very "musical" and quite enjoyable. 

 Flexibility: 9
 Build quality: 5
 Tonality: 9
 Soundstaging/imaging: 5
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 5
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 7
 Value: 8
 Overall Performance: 7.5

*16. Oyaide Tunami Power Cord- Assembled by Michael Wolff*

 Web site: Website: www.wolffaudio.com

 Pricing (6ft. cord): $345

*Preface*
 Since publishing this review (and its updates), I've turned down over a dozen other offers for review samples from other makers/marketers of power cords (who may well be reading this now-- hi! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ), due to absolute burn-out (as you can imagine). A few months back, I sold my TG Audio 688 that had been on my source since I first got and recommended it when this review was fresh. I sold it in a temporary pinch (and an attempt to rationalize my system to no avail), and I've regretted it ever since. I replaced it with a cheapie hospital-grade Iron Lung Jellyfish, which I still say greatly outperforms very many much more expensive cords; it's a real and true bargain. Still, it was no TG 688, though it more than held it's own given its absurdly low price. Also, for even longer, I've been happily using the Jellyfish on my stubborn, somewhat power-cord-immune Ray Samuels HR-2, where it has again served more than admirably. Much as I might wish to have used Michael Wolff's Silver Carbon Source cable (now no longer available, he's gone even further upmarket with even more exotic designs) on the HR-2, I couldn't justify buying a cord that cost 2/3rds of what the amp itself cost. C'est la vie.

 Recently Michael contacted me regarding a new (reasonably affordable) cord he was carrying called the Tunami. Even though temporarily "retired" from the power cord game, I asked him to send me a sample copy for review. Here are my results with the Tunami on my source; though again, I am comparing (in recent audio memory) against a much much cheaper unit (though a strong performer) in the Jellyfish. In swapping back and forth between the Tunami and the Jellyfish, I hear a difference on the level that is simply undisputable. This is the difference between a nice budget cord that does no wrong, and a serious piece of audio that provides actual bona-fide *enhancement* (with caveats). I've swapped these cords (and what a pain that is) several dozen times, and though not double-blind, I am more than satisfied that the Tunami is simply in a different class altogether from the mighty little Jellysfish. *But* it's potential drawbacks can't be overlooked.

 That said, a cable on this level demands that you judge it accordingly on a scale fitting its performance and cost. That means I'm going to be harder on it than it would be on the Jellyfish. After all, I'm not judging in a vacuum. The Tunami is not a perfect cable; it has a few potentially deal-breaking attributes that I will point out.

*Review*
 Oyaide is a Japanese company known (to me) for making very exotic (and expensive) ends/connectors for power cords. Their products typically end up on the most top-of-the-line esoteric cords out there. This seems to be their first attempt at producing the actual cord that fits between their high-quality connectors. Of course the Tunami (as assembled by Michael Wolff) uses Oyaide connectors at both ends; in this case, in a very cool-looking fire-engine red. This is a super-attractive cord if looks matter to you. 

 This is one of the relatively few aftermarket fancy power cords that is molded/extruded; it isn't just bare wire wrapped in a tech-flex sheath. This is a professionally-made cable, so the internal wires are not loose or jumbled; they are locked in place inside the rubber/plastic sheath. I've read other manufacturers argue that using molded wire cuts down on vibration, which if you believe some claims, is a source of distortion in the audio signal. 

 The wire itself is the purest copper known to man; this is the same single-crystal copper developed by Prof. Ohno that you've seen used in many expensive interconnects and a few power cords. This is a *very* stiff cord. Not the worst offender in this survey, but still a royal pain to install-- be warned!

 So how does it sound? Great! This is definitely one of the better power cords I've tried so far. The first thing that struck me was the incredible blackness of the background from which sounds emerge. This thing is DEAD quiet. Forget about a noise floor- there isn't one. That's it's defining characteristic, most everything else flows from that attribute.

 This is a very "vivid" and high-contrast cable. There is a big difference between the lowest lows and the highest highs. Everything is thrown into sharp, stark relief with great clarity and crispness to the image. 

 A pitch-black backround also almost always means you get a fantastic soundstage, and the Tunami does not disappoint in that respect. Stereo separation is wide, adding volume to the soundstage. 

 This is a very "hi-fi" sounding cable, if not the most natural and realistic I've heard. It digs up under the sound and pushes it out toward you. This can be thrilling for the right listener. It's an extremely hi-rez presentation; the Tunami leaves little to the imagination, you feel like you get to hear every digital bit on your CDs. Tonally, I wouldn't call the Tunami "warm" or "lush" or "romantic". It's a bit crisp, a bit "digital"; but it errs more toward neutrality than either the warm or cold/analytical sides of the spectrum. This is one of those "ruthlessly revealing" cables that lets the chips fall where they may. Legitimate criticism would be that it's too "revealing", but for some, that's music to the ears.

 This is also a powerful cable. Not as tear-your-head-off aggressive as the VH Audio cords, but the Tunami has a powerful and full bottom end, and drums are allowed to really pound. The Tunami gives a firm and fleshy bass without being heavy or slow. Electric bass lines are easy to follow, and exhibit a wide range of tones, so it's not one-note bass. 

 Adding this cable is like adding a turbo-boost to your system. It gooses everything it touches for better or worse.

 That concludes the positives. On the down side, one wishes for more midrage warmth/lushness. There is a slight hollowness to the mids that is troubling. There's a bit of glare or sugar-coatedness to the highs that isn't natural. The Tunami is a bit "digital" and "analytical". There's a bit of sugar-coating to it that isn't natural. 

 Flexibility: 4
 Build quality: 7
 Tonality: 7
 Soundstaging/imaging: 9
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 9
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 9
 Value: 8
 Overall Performance: 8


*17. Black Sand Cable Violet Z1 and Silver*

 Web site: Website: http://blacksandcable.com/

 Pricing (6ft. cord): ~$250

*Review*
 Black Sand Cables is one of those low-flying, under-the-radar companies that prefers to let the quality of their products do the talking for them, rather than relying on marketing hyperbole. I've observed as the man behind the company, John, has declined to hype his products on numerous occasions when he could have otherwise easily done so. It seems genuinely not to be his style. In fact, if you were to visit their modest web-site (as it exists as I write), you'd be quite puzzled by their offerings. You'd have a hard time determining what went into their basic offerings vs. what went into their more upscale offerings. It's basically a mess (sorry, John)...

 Allow me to clarify (such as I can with the limited info even I have). Black Sand used to have a full cable product line, but more recently, they decided to focus exclusively on power cords only, as that was where they felt they had the most value-add. To that end, they've developed a few power cords, but at the low-end, after receiving lots of feedback, they decided to consolidate their products into a single design. These bottom-level products are all identical save for the color of the jacket they come in: White, Crimson, Arctic Blue. These are all pure copper designs. Beyond that, they offer a copper/silver hybrid called the Silver Reference Mark 4. That's their current top-of-the-line cable.

 OK, so Black Sand has only 2 products, right? Well, not exactly. This review chiefly concerns their "Violet" power cord, a product that John is not yet convinced he should include in his product line. It was made as an experiment, and rests between their bottom-of-the-line cords and the Silver. John is not sure if he's going to ofer the Violet as a full-time product. I've written to him several times urging him to reconsider and to unleash the Violet on the world at large. We'll see...

 I paid for and received a single Violet, and then later informed John about my intentions to review his product. He then sent me his top-of-the-line product, the Silver to put his best foot forward.

 Well, after giving the Silver and the Violet equal time, and numerous swaps, I have to give the nod to the cheaper all-copper Violet. This all-copper power cord goes WAY WAY beyond the level of performance I've achieved with any other cable. And at a fraction of the price, AND with twice the build quality. (And it's highly flexible, to boot).

 Anyway, this cable (the Violet) is just stunning, I'm very excited; it's really like a component upgrade rather than a mere power cord swap. These impressions concern the performance of the Violet on my source, though I've ordered another one for my headamp. 

 Mad resolution, I'm constantly hearing things I've never heard before, and as you know, that's always a thrill. It's making old 80s CDs sound practically hi-rez. This thing is totally "un-veiled" in every possible way. Best soundstaging I've heard so far (not the biggest, but pretty astounding imaging, everything is so vividly defined and real), and ultra BLACK background. 

 The Violet is all about lifting veils. The question it poses to you is: how many veils do I *really* want lifted? Is there such thing as "too open" or "too revealing"? With the Violet attached, your gear becomes totally open and airy, with a nice full, firm sound. Bass is insanely tight and solid. Everything sounds extremely *real* with this cord. The Violet digs up so much information you've never heard before, it can leave you slack-jawed. 

 This cord (like all great audio products) has taught me something new. Yes, we are all intoxicated by that component which gives us a perceptibly "blacker" background. But, when you think about it, really, half of obtaining a "blacker" background is achieving whiter whites and thus, establishing a greater sense of contrast. IMHO, the Violet is a lot like an Ansel Adams print-- it goes from absolute white whites to pitch blacks; yet it's incredibly sharp and detailed because he's used an absurdly large 4x5 negative. The Violet leaves you with the exact same feeling. It leaves nothing to the imagination, yet at the same time, it doesn't exaggerate or over-emphasize. It's almost realer than real.

 The Violet excels in palpability-- you can reach out and touch the artist(s). Guitars are crunchy and vivid. Voices are so clear, you can easily make out expressions that were previously garbled. 

 Bass and dynamics are second to none. Bass is TIGHT and solid. Bass goes incredibly LOW. The sound this cord makes is eerily present and *real*. There is no way to extract greater dynamic range than to attach the Violet to your gear.

 Regarding the Silver, there's definitely a family resemblance, so there seems to be a Black Sand "house sound". However, the Silver still comes across a bit more constrained, the background not *quite* as black. It has a *slightly* more mellow top end than the Violet. 

 So yes, it's definitely more "refined", but it doesn't have the same degree of impact, dynamics, astonishing dynamic range, and amazing holographic sound of the Violet. I would think if the Violet was "too much" in your system, the Silver would be a great alternative. But for me, the Violet is intoxicating, I pause and listen to songs I normally skip just because everything sounds so fresh and new. Even though this cord is beyond ruthless and ultra-high-rez, it does the neat trick of making everything sound great without resorting to syrupy euphony. 

 Over the course of doing this review, I purchased a second Violet for my headphone amp. While not quite double the fun, adding the extra Violet to my HR-2 has taken my system a few steps further into the direction described above, and that's all to the good.

 One final word of caution on the Violet-- it needs around 150 hours of break-in. While it sounds fantastic out of the box, you will likely notice a bit of extra top-end energy. Don't be too concerned, because over time, it just dissipates away, leaving you with a cable without a sound (coloration) of its own. 

 Flexibility: 7
 Build quality: 9
 Tonality: 10
 Soundstaging/imaging: 10
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 9
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 10
 Value: 10
 Overall Performance: 9.5


*18. Virtual Dynamics Nite II*

 Web site: http://www.virtualdynamics.ca/

 Pricing (6ft. cord): ~$1300 (the Nite is now up to Series III, there is no more Nite II)

*Review*
 I haven't owned any VD cords since several years and iterations ago (as reported on here earlier in this thread). They have since come a long way in terms of design and sonics (I have also purchased another updated VD cable as my IC now, the Master Series III-- very very nice!). The Nite II has similar advantages as you always get with the VD stuff, but it's more neutral, less warm and romantic than the earlier version of the cord. The new version is also more resolving, with better extension up top (after burn-in, which is prolonged).

 The VD house sound is robust, full and dynamic and powerful. It adds weight and meat to musical bones without making the music sluggish or slow (a la the PS Audio cords). It's an extremely substantial sound that is anything but "thin". Bass is firm and fat with great tonality. But the key is the eerie realness and naturalness (organic sound) to the tone of the VD cords. They are extremely life-like and un-hi-fi. Which is not to say the VD Nite II is soft or unresolving, it's quite crisp and focused. The noise floor is non-existent (after burn-in, prepare for 400 hours) and the backgound is famously black as night (hence the name). It images like a champ, and throws an awesomely deep and realistic soundstage, but it's not as wide or separated as some.

 I wouldn't at all call the Nite II "laid-back", as it's too robust and dynamic. But, like the best gear, it has a way of sounding powerful and clear without assaulting your ears. This lets you listen louder and longer, always a good thing.

 The VD wires are among the fattest (10-guage) and stiffest you'll ever see. They sport insane amounts of shielding plus their pixie-dust "dynamic filerting" material is stuffed into fat cables that are individually wrapped and separate from one another. They are literally the thickness of three regular aftermarket power cords. So if you have very little space behind your components, they are not practical at all, as it takes a lot of room to get a 90-degree bend. If you normally need a 5-foot cable, buy a 6-footer instead to give you the extra room you'll need to make those bends to get it to fit into your socket.

 These cords (and their ICs) are also *very* heavy, so they can stress your IECs on your component. I've taken to stacking things directly underneath the connector of the cord to support its weight at the point where it attaches to my gear. This works well.

 So, anyway there's a conundrum that has crystallized for me lately. Seems to me, at the high-end of audio, when most restrictions/limitations are removed and you're purely into the realm of goodness, you still are presented with a choice to make between two different kinds of sound, each equally seductive:

 1. There's a realistic, natural and organic sound that sounds eerily like life; you get a "presentation" of the master tape (a "show") where you can suspend your disbelief and accept you are witnessing an event instead of a recording or a mere recreation of an event. So, you get to experience the *illusion* that the makers of the music were trying to create in the first place.

 2. Then, there's the other side of the coin-- hyper-real, super-detailed, "hi-fi" sound, where you are examining the contents of the master tape under a microscope. Gear like this doesn't take you out of reality or try to throw a show or create an illusion of life; instead it allows you to penetrate every nook and cranny of the master tape so nothing is left to the imagination.

 Both of these approaches are exciting and appealing in their own way. Depending on my mood and the recording, I could go either way. The difference is in the macro vs. the micro presentation. 

 The Black Sand Violet falls firmly under #2 above, where the Virtual Dynamics falls under #1. Because my new source (RAM modified Sony XA9000ES) is itself so resolving and clear, the combination with the Violet was a bit much. The addition of the VD cord perfectly complimented what the RAM XA9000ES was doing so well, it's no comparison here in this set-up. IMO, the Nite II, even though it's thick enough to be strung up as power lines, is ideal for low-powered digital sources.

 The Black Sand Violet imparts a tiny sheen of artificiality, and a slightly aluminum/metallic twinge that's missing on the VD Nite II. You aren't aware of that until you hear a cable that doesn't have it like the Nite II. In addition to tone, the basic advantage for me of the VD Nite II over the Black Sand Violet is in terms of foundation. The Nite II can't be beat for shear weight and heft of the bass, and overall solidity to the sound which is needed with my Sony R10 headphones. Actually, that solidity is a boon to any headphone, as that's one area where they tend to lag far behind speakers. You do lose a smidge of the focus and ability to absolutely pin-point each sound in space you get with the Violet, but for me in my system, that's an easy trade-off. The blackness of the background is comparable on both (blacker than 3AM on a starless night). 

 Then the question of value. FWIW, I would not likely buy a VD Nite II at full cost when you compare that to the value of the Violet. But, generally, you can pick up a VD Nite II power cord for ~$300-$400 on audiogon, and then it becomes much more attractive, and less of an issue.

 I would say, if your system is more lo-fi, then the hi-rez Violet is the way to go. But if your system is very high-end and revealing, the Nite II is it.

 Flexibility: 3
 Build quality: 9
 Tonality: 10
 Soundstaging/imaging: 10
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 9
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 10
 Value: 8
 Overall Performance: 9.5


*19. Michael Wolff Bohica*

 Web site: http://www.wolffaudio.com/

 Pricing (6ft. cord): ~$700 

*Review*
 OK, so I just received Michael's latest and greatest power cord, called the Bohica. It has all his latest technology in the cable itself, but instead of the absurdly expensive Acrolink carbon Oyaide connectors, it has the next level down Oyaide's with aluminum barrels, the F-1 and M-1, which together only cost a mere $500. These connectors look SWEET, and clamp down very well at the same time. 

 This cord contains all of Michael's latest thinking on power cord design for sources (and headphone amps). The cables are super-pure flat silver conductors combined with carbon, plus, there is now also a flat copper conductor in there as well to further bring out the bottom octave. The addition of this flat copper conductor is one of the chief differences between the Bohica and the previous Source cord I reviewed earlier. The Bohica cord is designed for components that draw less than 350 watts from the wall, which is everything but the biggest power amps, for which Michael has another cord. I'm currently using this latest Wolff cord on my headamp, the Rudistor RPX-33 mark II. On my source is the $1300 Virtual Dynamics Nite II power cord.

 Sonically, this new Wolff cord is a real WINNER. It's so typically Michael Wolff-- super smooooooth and CLEAN and CLEAR, and Hi-Rez. NOTHING sounds like a Wolff cable and that's down to his innovative use of carbon. It removes a layer of grit and grain you didn't even know was there. It has an EASE to the sound that's enchanting. Yet it leaves nothing to the imagination, it's as full-rez as you could hope for.

 With all those different conductors (copper, silver, carbon), you'd think this cable could be an incoherent mess, but it is anything but. Typical of Wolff's design, it speaks totally and completely with it's own voice, one that is utterly unlike anything you've heard before. I've certainly not heard another power cord that sounds like this, although his ICs (when he still made them, RIP) also had this wonderful sound.

 But trying to pin down its sound is kind of mis-leading, as truthfully, the Bohica just plain *disappears*.

 I can verify my earlier initial impression that this cord is simply fantastic, at the top the class of what I've reviewed so far. If you read my earlier review of Wolff's previous model, you will recall I went through a lot of testing with my Rat Shack level meter to inspect bass response on that cord. To my surprise, the tests showed absolutely zero drop-off in actual bass response even though subjectively, I could never shake the impression it was *slightly* bass light.

 Well, this new cord has no such issues; it has sumptous, full bass. And it retains all the goodies I've come to expect from Michael Wolff-- namely smoother than smooth, cleaner than immacualte, sound. 16-bit cymbal crashes that normally sound jagged, crispy, grainy, harsh or frayed on other cords are simply complete and fully-rendered through the Wolff cable. Is that because all other cables are false or inadequate, or because the Wolff is adding or subtracting something that's not there? That is the question, I guess, to be answered by each listener.

 The Wolff cord handles high frequencies in a totally unique way, and that's something I expect listeners to react to most strongly and immediately. Depending on your ears and biases, the Wolff cord is either artificially smooth and grainless in the extreme (although I'm not sure how you'd fake that), or it's actually rendering lo-rez 16-bit digital in a completely novel and natural way that you haven't heard before-- i.e. immaculately clean and well-rounded, not spitty and harsh. It's certainly not rolling the highs, but it finds a way of cleaning them up along with the rest of the frequency spectrum, and that I suspect may sound slightly "weird" at first blush.

 I could see some folks feeling this presentation of the highs is a bit lacking in "bite", "sharpness", "edginess" or "crispness". Maybe so, but that's where personal preference and system synergy comes in. Those traits could just as easily be labelled "harshness", "hardness", "spitty-ness" or "grainy-ness". I would ask you if those extra frayed edges and brashness are "supposed" to be there. I don't hear that artificial crispy digital sound in real life; I think its something added by our electronics that the Wolff cord helps to remove. But I do suspect the absolute grainlessness of this cord can be disconcerting, especially for ears raised on and trained on digital that naturally expect spittiness or harshness to extreme highs. 

 OK, so much for treble, what about the rest of the frequency spectrum and all the other audiophile goodies? As close to "perfect" as I've heard. Again, I'm going to have a hard time describing the "sound" of the Bohica, because it doesn't really have one. No frequency anomolies, perfectly balanced between forwardness and laid-back-ness, no grain, no background noise, no fake sharp serrated edges, that signature effortless flowing sound, and most critically and significantly of all-- AIR to breathe. The Bohica is open and full, not smothered or damped down, or sluggish and listless. The Bohica provides everything a great upscale power cord can do for your system, but without adding its own flavor or imposing any restrictions.

 If you are trying to "correct" some problem with your gear and are looking to add or subtract this or that, the Bohica will not make a good tone control. If you have a piece of gear that is already performing at a very high level, and you are satisfied with its basic sound but looking for the extra goodness a top-quality power cord can provide, the Bohica is the one. It will take your gear to that next level.

 Michael Wolff has really raised the bar with his new cord; it's a large step forward from his original Source cord reviewed earlier. In fact, it's at the very top of the heap in my quest so far.

 Flexibility: 8
 Build quality: 9
 Tonality: 10
 Soundstaging/imaging: 10
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 9
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 10
 Value: 10
 Overall Performance: 9.5


*20. Black Sand Violet "Deluxe"*

 Web site: http://blacksandcable.com/

 Pricing (6ft. cord): ~$395 

*Review*
 Today I got my package from Canada with my Premium Deluxe model Violet. This cord has the standard Violet cable but with very expensive ($200 per pair) Oyaide 046 series connectors. These are palladium over gold. It's not called the "Deluxe", but for my purposes, that's what I'll call it to distinguish it from the base model.

 They are orange in color, so in combination with the pale violet color of the cord, let's just say, it's not the prettiest cord on the block, but it will spend it's life behind your rack out of site, so who cares? 

 The first CD I fired up was Porcupine Tree's Deadwing, an album I don't know that well except that it's well recorded. The first track starts out low and has lots of little electronic sounds happening when suddenly it bursts in at full volume with drums and guitars. Well, the top of my head must have hit the ceiling when that happened. I almost jumped out of my skin!

 The sheer dynamics on this cable are borderline *outrageous*, almost overwhelming. Sounds leap out and sock you in the jaw. Drums have amazing pop and thump. Low bass is a subatomic explosive rumble. Dynamic range at both ends of the spectrum are extended 100 yards beyond the range of human hearing. Soundstage is colossal in scale, swarming around you and enveloping you.

 My impression of the original Violet was that it was already a hyper-conductive cord; adding these Oyaide connectors takes that 3 or 4 steps further. I swear this cord makes everything sound 3-4 db louder, it lets so much through you'll need to turn your gear down a couple notches to compensate.

 I think this Deluxe version is perfect for the active listener who likes to participate in the music, whether that's boogieing naked in your living room, playing air drums and guitar, or simply nodding your head or tapping your foot. If you love electric guitars with lots of balls and crunch, look no further. If you value CLARITY and ruthlessly REVEALING gear, look no further. This is your Mecca.

 With 6 hours of burn-in the cord is still a bit toppy for my taste, but this was true of the original Violet which normalized at around the 150 hour mark. Still, this cord is so completely absurdly extreme, it boggles my mind. No one (who is honest) who listens to this cord can credibly say that aftermarket power cords do nothing. If you can't hear this difference, you are deaf as a post.

 If you liked the original Violet (and I know there are now many many happy owners), the Deluxe model is all that but on steroids-- not just squared performance, but cubed. It's super-intense and alive. 

 In short, this cord KICKS ASS. Yes, it's "off the hook", but it may even be off the *charts*.

 But is it too much? Depends on the listener and the system and the kind of music you favor. The question for me is, will everything else sound too tame and reserved after I switch back?

 Well, after more listening, I eventually found that the Violet Deluxe was indeed a bit too much of a good thing in my system. It's certainly one heck of a cord, but not for the squeemish. If I was younger and more inclined to jump around when I listen, this cord would make more sense. These days, I like to kick back and listen with my eyes closed, imaginging the performance. For that purpose the Violet Deluxe does not work quite as well.

 If nothing else, one thing I learned from the Violet Deluxe is just how much the connectors can affect the sound of a power cord. The difference between the stock ends and the Oyaides on the same violet cord was nothing short of night and day. However, that difference wasn't 100% positive for me in all ways. Now, to be fair, Black Sand can terminate the basic Violet cable with any number of different hi-end connectors. Others have reported favorably about the use of different Oyaides on the Violet to get a more mellow sound. John at Black Sand won't steer you wrong-- he knows the sound of the cord with all the different connectors he offers. Just describe the kind of sound you are after and he'll set you up with the right pair for you.

 Flexibility: 7
 Build quality: 9
 Tonality: 7
 Soundstaging/imaging: 9
 PRAT/dynamics/speed: 10
 Resolution/detail/transparency: 10
 Value: 9
 Overall Performance: 9.0


*Conclusion*
 Still with me? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 To wrap this up, it’s time for me to rank order all of the cables under review. This rank ordering reflects performance in my system, based on my own biases and needs. It reflects performance on those components on which each cable fared best. It is not a straight listing of cables in order of the “Overall performance” rating I gave within the individual reviews. Those ratings are dependent on cost/value, flexibility and other factors, the final rank order is based on pure *sound* alone, all other factors be damned.

 1. (Tie) Virtual Dynamics Nite II (on my source), Michael Wolff Bohica (on my headphone amp)
 2.Black Sand Violet with stock ends.
 3. Black Sand Silver
 4. Split decision between the TG 688 (for my source), and the Wolff Source cord (for my headamp)
 5. Black Sand Violet "Deluxe" (with Oyaide 046 ends) 
 6.Virtual Dynamics Reference (since replaced/superseded by the David)
 7.(Tie) KAS Audio Primus (on my headamp) and Oyaide Tunami (on my source)
 8.VH Audio Flavor 1 and Flavor 2
 9.Custom Power Cord Company Model 14 Series 2
 10.Tek Line Eclipse
 11.Iron Lung Jellyfish / Volex 17604
 12. Straight Wire Blue Thunder
 13.Audio Metallurgy Gold Alloy 9
 14.Analysis Plus Oval 10
 15.Absolute Power Cord
 16.Zu Cable BoK
 17.PS Audio XStream Plus

 Thank you for reading!


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## markl

*phew* 5+ years of hard slogging is now at an end! 

 Here it is at last, the full results of my power cord quest for those interested. I wanted to start a new thread to present the complete review as the other one has scattered comments on new cords I received after the initial review was posted here, and was a bit of a mess. Thank you for indulging me.


 I continue to be approached by power cord makers to review this or that. I thank them, but for the foreseeable future, I'm all set. As you can imagine, I'm pretty burned out on power cords and have found a couple of them that really satisfy me completely with my system as it is. 

 I may take this up again in a few years, but for now-- I'm done!


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## Jahn

power cord on source is key. i SWEAR this is true - i was using a quail on my melos, and some beefy nice power cord on my Dell. this past month i switched it. big mistake. all of a sudden my crap dell seems like it ran out of memory - but i use the same stick of ram as i always have! something's definitely going on here. i'm swapping it back tonite.


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## cotdt

if you put a big round magnet (like speaker magnets) around the power cord, i think your results would change!


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## markl

Quote:


 if you put a big round magnet (like speaker magnets) around the power cord, i think your results would change! 
 

 Not sure what you mean, but the Virtual Dynamics cables do actually incorporate magnets into their design. They call this their "Speed of Light" circuit. My ears tell me it works!


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## tom hankins

Markl.......You are one completely INSANE DUDE!! Of course I mean this in the most complementary way.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I am going to try the Crump cords on my Parasound JC-1s and my source. Thanks.


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## markl

LOL, Tom. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well, I wanted to at least make all my suffering meaningful so maybe it can help someone else.


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## laxx

TY markl, I ordered a pair of Iron Lung Jellyfish cords at the beginning of this week based on your previous thread. =T They should be here anyday now. Yea, I'm too cheap to get anything expensive since my gear doesn't really warrant it, and I'm just dipping my feet in the water to try out aftermarket power cords.

 Too bad my source's power cord is undetachable, so one for my Aria, one for my computer. =T I'll post results of ILJ with my comp. Hopefully, it'll make it run quieter. =]


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## markl

laxx, let us know here what (if any) difference the Jellyfish made for you. Cheers.


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## Voltron

I thought 14 power cords was a lot to review, but 22 cords with rankings and ratings!? Wow. Nice work, and thank you for sharing it. I've got some reading to do...


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## chesebert

NICE. impressive.


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## Asr

No offense intended Mark, but I'm not seeing where this differs from your previously-posted review thread. Maybe you could point it out for me?

 Amazing comparison review regardless, definitely needs to stickied into the Featured Full Reviews. I wish you could've reviewed one of Signal Cable's offerings, but alas. Huge thanks for spending half your lifetime reviewing all these power cords!


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## markl

There are many differences, most notable is inclusion of the last 3 cables in the review. This one also now flows as a complete review, rather than being a thoughtless piece-meal addition of one after the other.

  Quote:


 Amazing comparison review regardless, definitely needs to stickied into the Featured Full Reviews. 
 

 Yes, that is the basic purpose, it's tidied up now and coherent and ready to be moved upstairs if the powers that be deem it worthy).


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## milkpowder

My goodness 15.5k words... I'm going to have fun reading this
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks a lot!


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## asebastian0

markl : you are the MAN! Incredible review(s)!


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## GreatDane

A very interesting read. I never knew that a power cord could be so persuasive as to cause one to " jump around" or simply "kick back".

 Wow. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 An end-of-the-road upgrade for me I think.


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## imported_Matt_Carter

Sorry bud, ya ant done tell you tried the siltech and eichmann
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 JK... 
 But if you ever do get curious, defiantly give these a go. I've had my journey, these were my favs. 
 Never did try VD cables though. Guess I'll have to give those, and valhallas a go for my coming D200's.

 One thing we can always rely on is; If mark says it's good… it is. 
 You’re an absolute gift to this community.

 Thanks a million.


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## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[size=small]*Power Cord Shoot-Out: 22 Power Cords Reviewed*[/size]


 1. (Tie) Virtual Dynamics Nite II (on my source), Michael Wolff Bohica (on my headphone amp)
 2.Black Sand Violet with stock ends.
 3. Black Sand Silver
 4. Split decision between the TG 688 (for my source), and the Wolff Source cord (for my headamp)
 5. Black Sand Violet "Deluxe" (with Oyaide 046 ends) 
 6.Virtual Dynamics Reference (since replaced/superseded by the David)
 7.(Tie) KAS Audio Primus (on my headamp) and Oyaide Tunami (on my source)
 8.VH Audio Flavor 1 and Flavor 2
 9.Custom Power Cord Company Model 14 Series 2
 10.Tek Line Eclipse
 11.Iron Lung Jellyfish / Volex 17604
 12. Straight Wire Blue Thunder
 13.Audio Metallurgy Gold Alloy 9
 14.Analysis Plus Oval 10
 15.Absolute Power Cord
 16.Zu Cable BoK
 17.PS Audio XStream Plus

 Thank you for reading! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I didn't realize you would end up rating the Oyaide Violet lower, but knowing the Oyaide palladium/gold sound already, I have since picked up yet another stock violet.

 I've tried lots of power cords, and so far stock Violet is the only one I can tolerate even after using three of them in one system. Usually, most cords, however expensive, tend to skew the system by accumulating their colorations after a couple of cords...


----------



## Snacks

Excellent review! 
 Good job incorporating lesser expensive power cords.
 This thread should be stickied for its reference (+5 years) value alone! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Your obvious contributions are invaluable; keep up the good work!


----------



## Wmcmanus

Congrats, Mark! I strongly suspect that this marks the first time in Head-Fi history that a review has made it into the Full Feature Review section without even _one_ moderator having read it! Your reputation precedes itself, and the sheer langth of this tome (in and of itself) is justification enough!

 See here: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=221635

 Of course, if I read it and determine that it's a bunch of crap, I might still change my mind. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This is something that we normally discuss and sometimes even vote on, but a no-brainer is a no-brainer. Thanks for taking the time to put this monster together (not just the writing but all of the critical listening as well).

 I'll definitely give it a read but am pleased to note the my Virtual Dymanics Nite II power cords (with speed of light) came out at the top of the heep. I use at least a half-dozen of these and several Masters as well, which are better yet. I've really got to try some of those Michael Wolff PCs and ICs as well.


----------



## skyline889

Another great review Mark, you definitely deserved the sticky for this one! I really appreciate you taking the time to audition the cheaper ones too. Not all of us have systems good enough, or should I say wallets big enough 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, to purchase the super high end cabling that most reviewers go over.


----------



## markl

Thanks everyone, and thanks Wayne for booting it upstairs.


----------



## 883dave

Markl...

 Thanks for your time and attention to detail...excellent reviews

 You have given lots to be considered!!!!!


----------



## mlhm5

First there are hundreds of miles of power company wiring before the hundreds if not thousands of feet of plain old romex 14-2 wiring in most peoples houses. 

 On a typical 50-100' run supplying 15amps to a room with 4 or 5 outlets, the source of power is cut and rejoined with wire nuts at least 4 times before getting to the final outlet. Prior to entering the room the power cord may have been split and joined supplying another 3 or 4 sockets adding another 50' to the run plus the run may start from the panel in the basement, adding another 50'-100' to the run.

 The wall outlet carrying the power is usually a simple cheap plug and the same simplicity is present in the panel.

 How can 6 feet of flexible cable (not cables with inbuilt filters or other esoterica) counteract the miles of power company's wiring, plus hundreds of feet in your house?


----------



## markl

Look here:

  Quote:


 *I’m A Skeptic, Prove to Me That Power Cords Work!*
 I didn’t believe in them either, until I tried one on a lark a few years ago. It had a 30-day no-hassle return policy-- I didn’t return it, and haven’t looked back since. Yeah, I know there’s all that non-audiophile-grade cabling in your walls preceding your fancy new power cord. And then from your walls back to the power plant are miles more. 

 But instead of thinking of it as being the *last* 6 feet of cabling, it can be thought of as the *first* 6 feet. It may be more useful to think of it not in terms of *improving* your system’s performance but in terms of *removing the harm* caused it by stock power cabling. It is also possible that the superior power cords act as a sort of “conditioner” on the power line, conditioning the electricity before it enters your component. Generally, fancy power cords also have superior shielding for rejecting EMI/RFI “pollution”, providing a cleaner transmission of electricity to your gear. 

 My overall experience with power conditioners and especially with power cables has opened my eyes to the importance of having a good, clean power supply to feed your audio gear, it’s truly the “life-blood” of your system, and the effects of correcting shortcomings in the power feeding your gear is not small. 

*If that’s not good enough explanation for you and you have problems with the concept that power cables can effect system performance, do yourself (and me) a favor—just stop reading! This thread is not for you, and debate about their efficacy will not be part of this review or this thread.*

 Or, you can try one for yourself and see.


----------



## trose49

I sent Volex email to order 2 power cords and got no response???

 Is there a better way to order?


----------



## mlhm5

How does a 6' flexiable cable counteract the effect of voltage drops when high power appliances are turned on? 

 Impedance will cause the voltage to vary from one second to the next, with significant drops at the times when ovens, electric water heaters, and electric dryers are turned on.

 Additionally there is measured the distortion on the mains in anyone's house of greater than 5%, and there is absolutely nothing that a cable can do to change this, regardless of cost.

 Your quote is quaint, "removing the harm". Indeed. To remove the harm, given that the mains is distorted, and varies in amplitude from minute to minute throughout the day, and has significant impedance, requires a UPS, which (if you get the right type) uses the incoming mains to charge batteries, then uses an inverter to supply power to your equipment.

 In subjective audio comparisons the 'correct' answer is always the more expensive or inconvenient one. I am afraid that lectronics is rarely as simple as that. 

 A major improvement is more likely to be linked with a new circuit topology or new type of semiconductor, than with mindlessly specifying more expensive components of the same type.

 To make the point, cars do not go faster with platinum pistons.


----------



## markl

Dude, if you want to debate power cords, pick any one of the hundreds of threads on that same subject, not this one. Thanks.


----------



## skullguise

Mark, this is awesome. I am truly amazed at your time spent. The ONLY other person i know who's been this deep into it is Martin Dewulf from Bound For Sound. 

 It was because of him I got got into TG Audio cords, with the SLVR being my favorite. And it was because of your reviews (and similar findings regarding TG cords) that led me to try the Black Sand Violet with similar very positive results.

 It's too bad yo didn't have a TG SLVR on hand to review. And also an Eichmann. Oh, and maybe the Eupen Filtered cord (cheap cord from Europe, supposedly used by JPS and either mod'd or stock; labeled JPS Digital AC, and sold for $300+!). I have found the Eichmann pretty system dependant, but it has done soe VERY nice things to my digital players.

 But you've done SO much for us, we'd never ask you to do more. Would we? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks for everything!


----------



## mlhm5

Dude, when you let your emotions make a $$ decision on technical equipment, you can bet the bank that you will make the wrong choice, unless you get it right by chance.

 Non blinded listening tests are invalid and I would be willing to wager that in a blinded listening test, all the cords sound indistinguishable. 

 Unlike visual memory, your acoustical memory is like vaporware and easily fooled. It is much easier to remember with great detail what your girlfriend looks like than to recall all but the basic details of the greatest guitar riff ever recorded.

 People will believe what they want to, and perceive what they want to perceive especially when the only testing deliverable is a vague subjective impression.


----------



## markl

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz....


----------



## mlhm5

Buying a new wall socket and making new connections to the mains wires would have a more substantial effect than buying a $650 mains cable.


----------



## PhilS

markl, great reviews and another worthy effort. 

 mlhm5, nice thead krap. Jeez, what the hell is your problem? And what part of the phrase "DBT-free forum" do you not understand? This is not the thread for you to advance your agenda, so go do it somewhere else, will ya, and let the adults continue with a discusson of the review and the reviewed cables. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










 P.S. I hope a moderator will delete the thread kraps, and feel free to delete the latter portion of mine as well once this thread is cleaned of the trash.


----------



## imported_Matt_Carter

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mlhm5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Buying a new wall socket and making new connections to the mains wires would have a more substantial effect than buying a $650 mains cable._

 

*[size=medium]GET OUTA HERE!!!!!!!!!!!![/size]*




 Do you really have nothing better to do.


----------



## mlhm5

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PhilS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_markl, great reviews and another worthy effort. 

 mlhm5, nice thead krap. Jeez, what the hell is your problem? And what part of the phrase "DBT-free forum" do you not understand? This is not the thread for you to advance your agenda, so go do it somewhere else, will ya, and let the adults continue with a discusson of the review and the reviewed cables. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










 P.S. I hope a moderator will delete the thread kraps, and feel free to delete the latter portion of mine as well once this thread is cleaned of the trash._

 

Well, I still don't understand how an expensive 6' power cable (not a cable with inbuilt filters or other esoterica) can counteract the miles of power company wiring, and hundreds of feet in your house, and "act as a sort of “conditioner” on the power line, conditioning the electricity before it enters your component" as posted by Mark.

 Can you shed some light on how this happens?


----------



## markl

Guys, while I appreciate the sentiments, unfortuneately this only seems to succeed in provoking more argument. 

 Let's just politely refer the poster to any of the hundreds of other threads on the "great cable debate" and he can read all the arguments back and forth. He seems to have a low post count so may not know that this has been re-hashed to death a trillion times already.


----------



## PhilS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_
 Let's just politely refer the poster to any of the hundreds of other threads on the "great cable debate" and he can read all the arguments back and forth. He seems to have a low post count so may not know that this has been re-hashed to death a trillion times already._

 

 Unfortunately, a review of his prior posts, and my own past experience on other threads, confirms that he is a troll, and just pops into threads like this to start a fight. I agree, though, unless the moderators intervene and solve the situation, let's just ignore it and maybe eventually he will get bored and go away.


----------



## DarkAngel

*Mark this is insane amount of work to do, thanks for sharing.*

*For background of test system used.........*
 Are you using power conditioning? 
 Do you plug AC cords into unfiltered strip?

 If not using conditioning have you tried one of the better units by Shunyata, Audio Magic, PS Audio etc.

 Also if wall outlet has not been upgraded for under $80 you can get many models of audiophile outlets that must be tried if you are spending these large amounts of money on AC cords...........typical wall outlet is junk

 -AC Conditoner
 -Wall outlet
 -Dedicated circuit for audio system
 -AC cords
 all part of balanced approach to enhancing power delivery to audio system


----------



## markl

Quote:


 Are you using power conditioning? 
 Do you plug AC cords into unfiltered strip? 
 

Hi DA,
 I haven't been using power conditioning for a couple years now, the cords have been going straight to the wall. I had a Monster PB1100 for a few years, which I used chiefly as surge suppressor, because as a power conditioner, it at least didn't harm the sound (some units I've had even longer ago may have mildly harmed the sound, not a huge fan of power conditioning). So, the net of having the PB1100 was no impact on sound quality.

 Eventually, I plan to get a power regenerator, but that's a ways away.


----------



## elrod-tom

I just want to remind everyone of a couple of things:

 1) We have rules about thread crapping that it appears were being ignored here. Let's not ignore it any more please.

 2) We have particular rules about discussion of blind testing and such in this forum. We do this because they tend to degenerate rather quickly, as this one was on its way to doing. Let's not see this any more either.

 I've just deleted a bunch of posts. If I have to delete any more, a warning will come along with the deleted post. Thanks...


----------



## eyeteeth

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_As you can imagine, I'm pretty burned out on power cords and have found a couple of them that really satisfy me completely with my system as it is._

 

Indeed you must be. Mark, the pity for us readers is that we can't hear what you heard and described in print. Is there some way that you could record 30 seconds or more of some music with your favorite power cord connected to your CDP and then the same section of music with a different power cord and host it. Then we can download the samples, burn them to CD and hear for ourselves.

 I'm sure you no longer have all 22 cords but a few most dramatic ones will suffice. 
 I think this would be the crowning touch of your oeuvre.


----------



## markl

Quote:


 Indeed you must be. Mark, the pity for us readers is that we can't hear what you heard and described in print. Is there some way that you could record 30 seconds or more of some music with your favorite power cord connected to your CDP and then the same section of music with a different power cord and host it. Then we can download the samples, burn them to CD and hear for ourselves. 
 

 eyeteeth, I assume you being tongue-in-cheek? Record it how? With a microphone and a micro casstte recorder up to one R10 earcup? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Somehow I don't think that will yield quite the same sound quality as listeing to my actual rig in, er, stereo.


----------



## eyeteeth

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_eyeteeth, I assume you being tongue-in-cheek? Record it how? With a microphone and a micro casstte recorder up to one R10 earcup? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Somehow I don't think that will yield quite the same sound quality as listeing to my actual rig in, er, stereo. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Your CD player has RCA out and your computer has a sound card and bingo, bango, bongo we're there. The idea came to me from all the SH dudes who ask advice from each other about their needle drops. This is an example. Um...apologies for the choice of song; I just used the most recent example that looks informative in terms of layout and execution. 

 Personally I'm looking for a heavy gauge lightly shielded cord for my 200wpc amp. Prior to reading your PS Audio review I might have thought it ideal for me but now it seems very unacceptable. What's right for you may be wrong for me and vice versa but the more info the better I always feel. I think that woman is a beauty and you think she leaves much to be desired...you know what I mean. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I think it could be a great idea for a review to have interactivity.
 Imagine if there were 16/44 one minute samples from your CDP, each from a different power cord.
 That would be cool.


----------



## markl

Ah, I see. I still question if fidelity would be enough even if that was practical. I've never even attempted anything like that. You'd be playing the representation/recording of the sound of my gear through your own equipment. It just doesn't sound like a good way to do it, need to listen to my rig in the flesh, or much better still, to your own and A/B before/after cord swap. You know the sound before and after of your own equipment much better than you'd know someone else's.


----------



## eyeteeth

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Ah, I see. I still question if fidelity would be enough even if that was practical. I've never even attempted anything like that._

 

I don't know the answer to that question either. I installed a M-Audio Audiophile 2496 last April for A to D and still haven't gotten around to doing it yet so I'm no shining example. 

  Quote:


 You'd be playing the representation/recording of the sound of my gear through your own equipment. 
 

Yeah, but I still figure something is better than nothing. There is probably sufficient transparency among members' playback to get something good out of the experience. 

 Anyhow, food for thought.


----------



## laxx

Again Markl, ty for your time on all of the reviews. I just received my 2 Iron Lung Jellyfish's and can't wait to get home and try them out.


----------



## laxx

Ok, I just spend a the last few hours listening to my Aria with the Iron Lung Jellyfish. There's a definite improvement compared to the normal computer cord I was using before. The ILJ is a bit warmer and much more musical. Prior to the ILJ, my CDP was pretty sterile and cold sounding, but that's not the case anymore. I popped in Bon Jovi's This Left Feels Right SACD and it was so much fun to listen to. The sound stage is a bit wider than before, though I feel there's no improvement with depth.

 For $29.99 for 2 Iron Lung Jellyfishes, it's a great deal and it's definitely converted me to a believer.


----------



## aryaah

Markl:
 Thank-you for your informative review.

 I purchased a Silver Reference MKV power cord with Oyaide ends/connectors from Black Sand Cable. I am extremely pleased with the subsequent improvement (connected to the Ray Samuels B-52.) John, of Black Sand Cable, was great in assisting with the purchase and the powercord was shipped and received in a short period of time.


----------



## Gabe Logan

WOW very nice work Mark.Your last review opened my eyes to the really bad stock cords i was using before and since then i have gotten a couple aftermarket ones with great results.

 Once again great job.


----------



## SEABREEZE

MARK,

 Just like to thank you for Sharring all of your research on cords. Thats what the audio hobby is all about,Sharing... I learned many moons ago how valuable power cords are to the entire synergy of the sysem. I beleive your work will make it much easier for many to fine tune there system... 

 Thanks again for your work


----------



## sbulack

markl,

 I want to add my thanks for all of YOU that went into your review of all of those power cables - the rig-twiddling, the buying and swapping, the burn-in periods, the critical listening and the writing. Piggy-backing on your work, I added two Black Sand Violet Z1's to my main rig for a surprisingly large (and really cost-effective) improvement in overall sound quality / listening experience enhancement. Given the point to which I had my audio path prior to the Z1's, nearly any improvement I was going to make would mean pulling a piece of the path out, and replacing it with something else. It surely pinches a whole lot less when the items being pulled out cost $7 apiece instead of hundreds of $$. And, I've read the reviews of folks who've spent the same amount of money that I spent for the Z1's to upgrade their CD player, or DAC or IC's from where I am - and, generally, they speak of the result as "the last few percent" order of magnitude. For the same amount of money, the changes I've experienced are "take the sound to the next level or two" order of magnitude. That I didn't have to search for years to find the Violet Z1's - that you just plopped the credible reference into my lap, so to speak, is simply incredible. So, along with the others, "Thank You, Thank You, Thank You."


----------



## mlhm5

Every single recording studio has one of these, yet they don't have expensive power cords. That's something they don't spend their money on.

 Why do they use an isolation transformer? 

 Well because it is a surge supressor, a line conditioner and on top of that it eliminates all ground loop problems, all EMI/RFI noise, equipment generated odd harmonics and takes care of all the problems between the power plant and the studio.

 For less than $200, you can rest assured that all those problems will be solved, something an expensive power cord cannot do.

 You can buy 250W, 500W and 1000W depending what you plug into it. The 250W is as cheap as $90 and the 500W for $149 + shipping. That's more than enough for most systems.







Isolation Transformer


----------



## PhilS

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mlhm5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Every single recording studio has one of these, yet they don't have expensive power cords. That's something they don't spend their money on.

 Why do they use an isolation transformer? 

 Well because it is a surge supressor, a line conditioner and on top of that it eliminates all ground loop problems, all EMI/RFI noise, equipment generated odd harmonics and takes care of all the problems between the power plant and the studio.

 For less than $200, you can rest assured that all those problems will be solved, something an expensive power cord cannot do.

 You can buy 250W, 500W and 1000W depending what you plug into it. The 250W is as cheap as $90 and the 500W for $149 + shipping. That's more than enough for most systems.
_

 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *elrod-tom* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I just want to remind everyone of a couple of things:

 1) We have rules about thread crapping that it appears were being ignored here. Let's not ignore it any more please.
_

 

 What part of the phrase "thread crapping" do you not understand? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Your previous craps we're deleted; why don't you give it a rest.


----------



## chesebert

I just received the Violet, had it on the Saturn and didn't quite think it was that big of an improvement, little excessive high-energy (I assume this will subside after burn-in), but the bass is much improved and feels whole. Now here is the cool part, I put it on the Ayre amp and HOL#@$ !C#@$ the power cord made the Ayre sound like a real SET amp, where the voice and instrument just PULL themselves from rest of the soundstage and landed right in my room..amazing.. So in my case the better power cord on my amp is def more beneficial, contrary to the common sense procedure (when I have little more free $$ I will get another one for Saturn). 

 Nice !!! Thank John! Thanks OP, Thanks Grover (yeah..even he says Blacksand cable is the one to get for the $$)


----------



## markl

You're welcome sbulack and chesebert. The Violet is one killer cord for the dough. When you upgrade sources and amps, then start looking at the Wolff and VD stuff, it's the next level above the Black Sand. Cheers.


----------



## tev

I've had the Michael Wolff Bohica in my system for about two weeks and agree with Markl's review. It's a fantastic power cord that is very similar to the earlier Wolff cords but with added weight and tightness in the lower frequencies. I actually prefer the Bohica in my CD source, rather than in my amp, where I still use an earlier version of the same cord. When I reverse the two, the sound gains a bit more speed, but looses a bit of ease and air. Either way they do a great job in my system. I've tried many pc's over the past several months and really have settled on these Wolff products. They bring my CD experience closest to the ease and organic quality of fine analog.


----------



## Ooztuncer

Markl,
 I also want to thank you for the great write-up. After I read your review and without any experience with different power cords, I kind of planned my upgrade steps (based on cost):

 iron lung jellyfish
 black sand violet z1
 probably nothing else until I make my $1e6

 I am wondering if you had a chance to try another power cord since January?


----------



## markl

Quote:


 I am wondering if you had a chance to try another power cord since January? 
 

 It never ends, does it? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yes, now that I have upgraded sources and amps, I have one more cord in-house and am contemplating getting another. Once I have something solid to say, I'll follow up.


----------



## trose49

markl,

 I have a power cable that I use with my HR-2 amp that I got it from work. It comes with a 40,000 color copier system. I can not find any info on the net about it and as fas as I can tell I can not order on seperatly from the manufacturer. I am working on this just incase.

 If I were to send you one do you think that you could review it? Even if you dont publish the results and just provide me with some feedback that would be great.

 Although I think it might be a fun read! LOL

 Let me know!


----------



## markl

Hi, trose49, right now I've got too many irons in the fire review-wise, and on power cables I'm more likely to focus more at the high-end from here on out. Thanks for the offer, though. Cheers.


----------



## trose49

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Hi, trose49, right now I've got too many irons in the fire review-wise, and on power cables I'm more likely to focus more at the high-end from here on out. Thanks for the offer, though. Cheers._

 

It looks pretty BEEFY!


----------



## mrarroyo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *trose49* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It looks pretty BEEFY!_

 

A picture might help...


----------



## Dan Millheim

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_... focus more at the high-end from here on out._

 

Hello Markl,

 I wanted to thank you for your work here on various power cords. I have learned a lot from reading your recommendations and other research I have done on the web. This past year I started down the power cord/interconnect upgrade path and discovered a local company (DFW Texas) that builds exceptional cables for high end users. I am not affiliated in any way with them and everything I own, I have either bought or traded, for but the owner has become a good friend and has actually let me beta test several of their newest products. Anyway, since you mentioned that you might have an interest in high end stuff you might want to check out their various offerings? They are remarkable! Locus-design.com and cryo-parts.com.
 Thanks again for all your help.


----------



## john_deere_boy

great job on the review! Any thoughts on Signal Cable power cords anyone?


----------



## philodox

Well, I'm buying a bunch of signal cable PC's for my system soon. The standard copper unshielded for my power conditioner and amp and the copper shielded cord for my source. Thought about trying the silver reference cable on my source, but it seems a little excessive.

 I'd love to hear what Mark thinks of them though.


----------



## ovnifou

Thank you so much for the review!!! that helps a lot to find how to start for my own system


----------



## seefeel

Hey markl,
 Great review. What power cords are you using on your source and headphone amp these days?


----------



## markl

Source: Virtual Dynamics Nite *3.0*

 Amp: Wolff Bohica

 These may be changing soon.


----------



## chesebert

VD cables are a nightmare to manage; you are warned.


----------



## pompon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *chesebert* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_VD cables are a nightmare to manage; you are warned._

 

If PC really change the sound for better, I will live with "nightmare to manage". 

 I have in order 2 master 3.0 and one nice 3.0.


----------



## Furia

I was actually looking for buzz/hum related topic when I came across a post saying "power-cord solved my tube amp buzz" http://www.head-fi.org/forums/3315555-post297.html

 So then...I just purchased 2 'Basic Power' since I am only running a simple entry level setup and ...Virtual Dynamics is having a sale 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I like the sound I am hearing at my current setup with the free stock Power-Cord hopefully the tone/feel of the sound won't change too much by upgrading Power-cord. (except the buzz/hum from the NOS tube)

 and of course.. thank you for the review!


----------



## D_Tinnitus

Not to be a stick in the mud, but with all the effort in getting access to these high-end cords, couldn't you also have gotten access to actual testing/measurement equipment...? Would love to see some real performance data.


----------



## chesebert

I will guarantee you that all cables measure the same with the type of equipments someone 'normal' can get their hands on. We are not talking about R&D department with millions in budget and several PhD designing the proper testing procedures/environment.


----------



## D_Tinnitus

You'd think a high-end equipment manufacturer wouldn't consider any of these factors when including a power cord. 

 Without an actual repeatable standardized measurement, how can you accurately judge something? Any variation is just a matter of opinion without it. 

 All in all, there is a far greater chance of compromise with the long path of wiring from the generating plant, through the switching stations, step up-down transformers, house wiring, and even outlet contact pressure, versus a properly rated 6' power cord. Even less if it is permanently attached.

 If there is a perceptible difference with any power cord, something is seriously wrong.


----------



## nghows

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *D_Tinnitus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Any variation is just a matter of opinion without it. 
_

 

therein lies the rub..... it IS all a matter of opinion. 

 Whether these variations/opinions are/can be substantiated by "scientific" measurements is unimportant. Why? Because some people can hear the variation (or believe they can) and it is for these that this thread exists...

 Some hear the differences, others don't. All i can say is that those who can't, are the lucky ones.... they just saved themselves a wad of cash and time.....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyways just my 2 cents worth, no harm/antagonism intended.... 

 we're going off track...


----------



## MilesCirno

Wait, I'm new to this whole audiophile business.
 Can someone explain to me how this all works with the powercords and stuff.
 I'm not trying to doubt you guys or anything, I'm just confused.


----------



## gritzcolin

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *MilesCirno* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wait, I'm new to this whole audiophile business.
 Can someone explain to me how this all works with the powercords and stuff.
 I'm not trying to doubt you guys or anything, I'm just confused._

 

Well I personally have no experience with power cords other than stock. These supposedly change the coloration of the sound or more accurately get rid of coloration. Again no personal experience but I suppose it could be possible with a thicker better shielded and higher grade wires. It would seem to me that the power signal could be transferred with little or no degradation compared to stock cables.


----------



## IPodPJ

They do a whole lot more than add or subtract coloration, but yes, they can do that too. They allow your equipment to perform better, lower distortion levels, add depth and increase imaging, blacker backgrounds, overall improvement in dynamics across the entire frequency, etc. As much difference as a good interconnect makes, a good power cord does five fold. Everyone of us is a skeptic until we actually try one, then we regret trying them because we now know why people spend so much money on them.


----------



## dvw

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *IPodPJ* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_They do a whole lot more than add or subtract coloration, but yes, they can do that too. They allow your equipment to perform better, lower distortion levels, add depth and increase imaging, blacker backgrounds, overall improvement in dynamics across the entire frequency, etc. As much difference as a good interconnect makes, a good power cord does five fold. Everyone of us is a skeptic until we actually try one, then we regret trying them because we now know why people spend so much money on them._

 

I have no doubt that you believe power cords make a difference and I am not going to debate that. But your claim that it lowers distortion and increased dynamic is misinformation. These are measurable parameter. I have not seen any number or published report on this. If your claim is true, then all medical instruments will be swarming to use these "low distortion" power cord. The impact of this is much greater than an blacker background in audio.


----------



## meat01

Quote:


 Everyone of us is a skeptic until we actually try one, then we regret trying them because we now know why people spend so much money on them. 
 

I didn't see this to be the case when I tried an aftermarket power cord.


----------



## Acoustic Chef

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvw* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have no doubt that you believe power cords make a difference and I am not going to debate that. But your claim that it lowers distortion and increased dynamic is misinformation. These are measurable parameter. I have not seen any number or published report on this. If your claim is true, then all medical instruments will be swarming to use these "low distortion" power cord. The impact of this is much greater than an blacker background in audio._

 

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f97/poor-skeptics-278199/


----------



## dvw

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Acoustic Chef* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f97/poor-skeptics-278199/_

 

Are you serious? This is not an UofT sanctioned study nor is this guy an EE. The test instrument is a commercial DAC and a PC. The difference measured is 0.5mV that's noise. I can easy show the difference with the same setup with the same cable. The instrument does not have the resolution to measure the difference. No one in the right mind would measure this with a PC as a serious study.

 I still don't see where the distortion is reduced. There is no measurement of distortion whatsoever.

 Please deal with real fact. I am not trying to judge any belief but I do want to make sure any information cited to be accurate. I am asking for data on distortion and dynamic (in dB please).


----------



## IPodPJ

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dvw* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I have no doubt that you believe power cords make a difference and I am not going to debate that. But your claim that it lowers distortion and increased dynamic is misinformation. These are measurable parameter. I have not seen any number or published report on this. If your claim is true, then all medical instruments will be swarming to use these "low distortion" power cord. The impact of this is much greater than an blacker background in audio._

 

Let me rephrase. My amp, the Opera, seems to be subject to a high level of distortion. Most all of that distortion is gone when using a good power cord. This does not mean it's the power cord that's lowering the distortion. What it means is that it is providing a cleaner supply of electricity to the amp, and the amp is in turn functioning more efficiently.

 No cords or cables will magically alter the sound, unless they are designed that way by using specially manufactured alloys. They just transmit a cleaner signal which allows your equipment to perform at a higher level of efficiency.


----------



## Vul Kuolun

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Acoustic Chef* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f97/poor-skeptics-278199/_

 

Poor "study"

 Long story short:
 The "association with the University of Toronto" does in fact mean that the guy VD charged with the "study" had 4 19-yearish Students from the UoT to support him. Probably so they can print "in association with the University of Toronto" on top of it.


----------



## OverlordXenu

Hey shill, aren't you only allowed to do your shilling in the MoT forum?

 Let's see here, a shaky study with results that were edited by a power-cable salesman?

 Yep, that sounds reputable to me!


----------



## markl

This thread is going off-topic. This thread is not about debating the merits of aftermarket power cords, it is a review of many of them.

 If you wish to debate, you are invited to do so once Jude opens the new skeptics forum. Thank you.


----------



## pompon

Could you leave this thread for people who want to discuss and share their experiences with power cables? 

 Keep this thread positive and clean.

 Start another subject if you want do a debate how to do a scientific test ...


----------



## sbulack

markl,

 I was very happy with a Violet Z1 on both my source and amp - by far, yielding the best sound I ever heard through my rig. Finally, a life-sized sound image - neither a miniature version inside my head, nor a larger-than-life overly magnified version. Sounds innocent enough, right?

 About a year later, I found a used VD Nite II IC on Audiogon for a price I could afford (to give the VD sound a try) ...... You've really got a great way to describe the sound of gear so that folks who have never heard it can have a good feel for what they'll hear through it. In place of the (vivid and engaging) chalk outline of the sound, the VD filled the sound in with generous dabs of rich and realistic pigment - and filled the sound out into a more convincing spatial arrangement of musical voices than I'd ever heard from a recording.

 After hearing the difference that the VD Nite IC made to my rig, I wanted to try a matching PC - so a used VD Nite II from Audiogon later ...... even more of the same, and an added depth to the sound (dynamic and spatial, both stemming from the lowered dynamic floor) that I had imagined recorded sound could contain, but had never experienced through my rig before. Then a used David 1.0 PC through Matt (for my CD player). Finally a pair of VD Nite 3.0 Platinum PC's to bring my main rig to an all-VD-cabled system. The short version is: it's not too much of the same thing. With each VD PC added to a component in the audio path, the SQ improvements I'd heard before kept going in the direction of more lifelike, more realistic, more experientially drenching, putting me increasingly in the presence of all of the human creative energies invested in the music from composition through production.

 At this point, VD has shipped a used Master 3.0 1.5m RCA pair of IC's which will replace the Nite II IC in my main rig, freeing the VD Nite II IC for my bedside rig. My bedside rig consists of an imod as source, and a TTVJ Portable Millett Hybrid, so no PC opportunities there. I've already tried the Nite II in the bedside rig, and the sound through that rig supports my music listening with the sonic means to which my main rig has made me accustomed. I'm awaiting the arrival of the Master 3.0 IC's, knowing pretty much what to expect, which only heightens the delicious anticipation of their arrival.

 Anyway, this is all to thank you for your writing about your listening experiences with VD cables (IC's and PC's), and with the cables from all of the vendors you've experienced in your rig and described. Your descriptions gave me an excellent sense of what I would hear, but actually hearing my music presented through them in my audio path was (and is, daily) a moving experience - putting me more immersively and intuitively in touch with the perspectives on the many facets of our common Human Condition being expressed in the music.


----------



## markl

Glad to be of service, sbulack. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The VD cables really are something special. I now have Master LEs on my source and coming from the wall to my PS Audio Power Plant Premier. I'm now using the Genesis IC between my source and headphone amp, and it really is the VD sound taken to it's (ridiculous) extreme. Yum! Cheers.


----------



## chesebert

wrong thread


----------



## AudioCats

Great thread of useful power cord info, thanks!

 I have just did some power cord experiment, and much to my surprise, I was able to hear the difference between different material/geometry, every combination sounds different


----------



## BIG POPPA

Just found the thread WOW, good reading. Markl you pulled it off. Good work. My head would be spinning when I got done.


----------



## sbulack

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *BIG POPPA* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Just found the thread WOW, good reading. Markl you pulled it off. Good work. My head would be spinning when I got done._

 

And then, ... as if that were not enough ..., he went on to invent and perfect a tweaking process (with lots of listening involved to evaluate each experimental trial) for the Denon D5000 and D2000 phones to make available a currently purchasable set of phones which provide R10, or better, quality. I'm starting to think that markl is the real-life Buckaroo Bonzai.


----------



## headphone_speaker

what can i say? speechless
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 I really wish Virtual Dynamics company can reduce their price or offer more discount


----------



## nor_spoon

I really do not want to go there...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But anyways, I am stunned by the hard work and effort put in making this amazing review! Great source!


----------



## BIG POPPA

Is this the trip to the other dimension? I love that movie.


----------



## pompon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *headphone_speaker* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_what can i say? speechless
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 I really wish Virtual Dynamics company can reduce their price or offer more discount
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Many are on ebay ... you can have a pair at 1/4 of the sale price.

 They expansive, not certifiated and difficult to install ... it's why they not very popular.

 I have 3 power cords, 1 coax and I enjoy them.


----------



## Mister Crash

For anyone who's interested in Wolff power cords, I wouldn't wait too much longer. It looks like he's going to be hanging up his soldering iron soon:
AudiogoN ForSale: Michael Wolff Carbon 400


----------



## JamesL

I'm not a power cable believer, but congrats on one of the best written reviews I've read. 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *markl* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But instead of thinking of it as being the *last* 6 feet of cabling, it can be thought of as the *first* 6 feet. It may be more useful to think of it not in terms of *improving* your system’s performance but in terms of *removing the harm* caused it by stock power cabling. It is also possible that the superior power cords act as a sort of “conditioner” on the power line, conditioning the electricity before it enters your component._

 

By that logic, would you say that a longer length of cable is always better, since it removes more "harm" done by the stock power cabling? 
 Also, how much do you think is reasonable to spend on a power cable, provided that even a cheap line or LC filter produces results that are much easily _measurable_ than the effects of the cord.


----------



## Greeni

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mister Crash* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_For anyone who's interested in Wolff power cords, I wouldn't wait too much longer. It looks like he's going to be hanging up his soldering iron soon:
AudiogoN ForSale: Michael Wolff Carbon 400_

 

I have been using Michael Wolff power cords for sometime. I couldn't agree more with Mark1's assessment. His observation that Mike's PC do not add weight is spot on, but with the right application is nevertheless a very fine product indeed.


----------



## Currawong

Wow, another epic review by Markl I've just discovered. For people not convinced by power cords, try this trick: Plug one into an LCD or plasma TV and watch a movie from a blueray disk. If you can't trust your ears, trust your eyes.


----------



## Telstar

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Currawong* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Wow, another epic review by Markl I've just discovered. For people not convinced by power cords, try this trick: Plug one into an LCD or plasma TV and watch a movie from a blueray disk. If you can't trust your ears, trust your eyes._

 

Yeah, this also reminded me when i put a network filter, the most results I saw with my eyes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW, great thread.


----------



## Jarmel

I'm trying to decide between the Wolff 400HD and the VD Nite 4 for my Wadia. Any help to decide between the 2 would be much appreciated because both aren't covered in this great reference.


----------



## BrianS

I really like the VD cabling and have it throughout my system. I hope to get the Master 4.0 XLR for my balanced amp.


----------



## punk_guy182

I have a question for you guys.
 I'm about to order some Audio-GD cables for my Audio-GD gear and I was wondering if I should consider connecting a better power cable to my pc.
 My pc is my source and could it provide better SQ with a quality power cable?
 Has anyone tried using Audio-GD on an LCD computer or other applications? 
ºÎÇì»ªÔ*´´ÒôÏì


----------



## haloxt

I have tried using audio-gd power cable for the computer and it appears to improve the sound quality with usb as transport, but the most benefit comes from the power conditioner. And I have also tried using the audio-gd power cable to a pretty good quality LCD (Eizo S1921) and it seems to brighten the color a bit, but it doesn't add another color on top of RGB so I don't think the $75 price tag is really worth it unless you have a $1000+ LCD monitor. If you want power cables for your computer and LCD monitor I'm thinking maybe thick $10-40 ones (or the stock ones that come with audio-gd gear) will suffice. Power conditioner has a much more drastic effect on the LCD monitor than power cable, but they complement each other. If you want to improve your LCD quality or computer as transport, I'd recommend a power conditioner before power cable, or just a power conditioner, imo the benefit is more than sufficient for most people and I think you'd be well-pleased with the results of only getting a power conditioner.

 In certain ways (not imaging) I actually much prefer power conditioner+ht omega claro halo sound card over an unpimped out compass.

 Just my deranged and possibly placebo-induced two cents. Btw, I really wish power didn't affect audio and video quality, but my observations keep telling me that it does despite the protests of my wallet.


----------



## IPodPJ

The problem with power cord reviews is that they will never be consistent. Each power cord will yield different results on every piece of gear you put it on. What one given cord will do for a DAC it will not do for an amp, transport, or other component. It will not even yield the same results on a different DAC. The reason for this is obvious: different chips, circuitry, power supply sections, and internal wiring. So keep this in mind when reading power cord reviews.


----------



## sep90

actually any1 tried blacksand violet Z1 with oyaide 004 plugs or M1/F1 b4?
 i found it very neutral and ruthlessly revealing without any harshness and lean bass


----------



## SemiAudiophile

I’m still waiting for a review of the Signal Cable power cords… So far I’ve tried out a few power cords including the Violet Z1, Zu Birth and Bok, and the VD Power 3. I had the best success so far pairing the Z1 with the PS Audio DLIII and the Zu Bok with the Mapletree. 

 I love the Violet Z1. I haven’t tried it extensively on any of my amps, but on my DAC it sounds very musical and detailed, so I decided to just keep it there. There isn’t really anything negative about the Z1 that I can point out. It’s a nice built, flexible power cable. Highly recommend this cable for just all-around great performance at an affordable price. 

 The Zu Birth and Bok cables are excellent well built cables and are of great value especially if you buy them off eBay. I use the Birth to power my computer. They both are great at lowering the noise floor while providing a darker, "blacker background". The Birth I feel has more emphasis on the bass and lower midrange which maybe good when paired with the right amp. Bass is nice and tight and packs a lot of punch. But paired with the wrong amp it may be too much. The Bok is similar to the Birth, but a lot more even all around and much more detail. The Bok doesn’t quite have the bass punch and impact as the Birth, but still has deep and authoritative, tight bass. It’s got a good midrange that sounds very clear without being overly warm and crisp, sparkly highs that sometimes sound a little sweet. On a wrong amp, the Bok does sound a little aluminum-plastic like and the highs can sound somewhat shrill. I find that it sounds great though with tube amps like the Mapletree. 

 My most recent is the Virtual Dynamics Power 3. I was very disappointed by it. I had high expectations for this cable, but they just didn't seem to lower the noise level very well (or at all even). I agree that the power 3 is a warm, euphonic sounding cable, but it just seems to color the sound and mask the detail; something that any warm sounding interconnect can do. Every amp I paired it with just sounded way to warm and lacked the detail that I was so familiar with. The other thing I can't stand about the VD cable is that it is super unflexible. They are extremely difficult to deal with and a pain to set up. I noticed that it gotten a 3 for flexibility, but i would have given it a 1 at most. Overall, I was not satisfied at all by this cable and think the Power 3 is way overrated.


----------



## roadcykler

Thanks for taking the time to write that review but I wanted to make something known about one of the cables. Bohica is an acronym.

 B end
 O ver
 H ere
 I t
 C omes
 A gain

 Just putting it out there.


----------



## Paul J.

Great review! I wish I had the chance to try some fancier cords, but they are out of my budget and I captive wire everything (DIY gear, no IEC is certainly better than a fancy IEC). I did a very, very limited comparison, and I use the Volex 17604 for everything. If you are interested in a substantial upgrade for it, cut off the stock plug and screw on a Pass & Seymour 5266X. They are less than $10 at Home Depot and Menards. I'd be curious to see if the swap moves it up on your list! Of course, replacing the IEC is desirable too, but it is more complicated and more expensive. And, if you are replacing both ends, you may as well spring for the Belden wire (now that the Volex is built in China and not precisely the same as the Belden).

 I just scanned the thread and I didn't see any talk of outlets. $7 replacing a crappy outlet may make you happier than a few hundred on a cord. The bad news is that decent outlets are hard to find. Look for the Pass & Seymour 5342, 5352 and 5362. The '42 is best (most brass) the '52 and '62 have more steel, but are easier to find. Home Depot doesn't carry them. Menards does, as do electrical supply companies. 

 If you want to get fancier still, Acme outlets are AFAIK, silver plated versions of the desirable P&S pieces. They are likely a better deal than many other boutique brands, which are often just relabeled mass market stuff. BTW, don't think that "hospital grade" means it'll sound good. Of course, if you have a tendency to hit your outlets with harsh solvents, then it'll make sense. Otherwise, try and find the P&S.

 Generally, you ain't gotta' spend too many bucks for a serious upgrade from stock cables and standard issue outlets. The law of diminishing returns hits hard and fast. Do be careful with AC. Unlike a botched interconnect, a botched power cord will kill you (or your family) dead. Cords and outlets are neither complicated or difficult so long as you know what you are doing.

 Paul


----------



## Fairbanks

I agree that changing outlets makes a big difference.I'm using a furutech outlet for my headphone rig.There are many to choose from at CryoParts Cryo Treated Audio Parts for DIY, PS Audio, Oyaide, Furutech Receptacles and AC Plugs


----------



## Paul J.

I think a good chunk of what one hears with any cable swap is the difference in connection quality between cables. A plug can only improve things so much. Some outlets provide a terrible connection. The P&S outlet I recommended grabs that P&S plug like nothing else. I pulled one of those outlets out of an old plaster wall in my old house while trying to unplug my outlet box. I hate trying to vacuum in my current house, because the plug literally falls out of the wall on several outlets! From what I've read, I believe that all of those crap connections are making noise that radiates throughout the circuits. 

 Of course, there is more to it than "grip". Steel conductors always sound bad. Many plating methods aren't that great either. Some plastics are better dielectrics than others. Keep in mind that price doesn't always equate with quality. There are some pretty fancy AC parts out there available for 1/4 the price if you don't mind the OEM's stamp instead of an audio boutique silk screen! 

 I'd like to try Oyaide someday. First I need to replace a few more $2 outlets with $7 ones.

 Paul


----------



## minimus

According to a post on Audiogon by his wife, Michael Wolff recently died. So alas the top-ranked cables in this review will only come up for sale used.

 I personally have found that Rob Fritz's Audio Art power cables are excellent at about $200 new. I demo'd his IC-3SE interconnects, which I did not like all that much as they were too forward for my taste, but the great reviews of his Power 1 cord with Furutech plug I think are definitely warranted. They really improve dynamics, extension, but are slightly warm rather than bright. And given insane pricing of power cables and interconnects, they are priced reasonably. They rarely seem to come up for sale used, which is also telling.


----------



## dura

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *IPodPJ* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_The problem with power cord reviews is that they will never be consistent. Each power cord will yield different results on every piece of gear you put it on. What one given cord will do for a DAC it will not do for an amp, transport, or other component. It will not even yield the same results on a different DAC. The reason for this is obvious: different chips, circuitry, power supply sections, and internal wiring. So keep this in mind when reading power cord reviews._

 

Agreed! My former CDP was a Rega Apollo, with was completely ab solutely faqntastic with a van den Hul mainsserver PC.
 Then I sold the CDP and got myself a Havana DAC instead; without thinking about it I inserted the mainsserver; the sound was completely sterile, dead! Took me weeks of puzzling until I chanced the PC to a simple Belden: bingo, suddenly the Havana gave a lovely full vibrant sound.
 I would never have believed the difference could be so big if I wouldn't have heart it myself.


----------



## music_man

i have a van den hul mainsstream. i bought it from an authorized dealer. van den hul's website is not very clear on the issue of fakes. then there is some dealers website that shows a fake one apparently that looks just like a real one but they claim it is more flexible. i would not say mine is very flexible. they have me wondering what i have. the problem is that what they say is signs of a fake appear on the real one many people have stated. sometimes van den hul used a small "v" sometimes a big one and other minor things. i guess i can just rest assured that i bought it from an authorized dealer then. i saw the ones in hong kong on ebay. that is certainly not what i have and those are the fakes. van den hul should be more clear on what is actually a fake imo. mine is gold not yellow/green i don't know if that alone comfirms it is real.

 anyhow i like this cable. another strange thing is it says it handles 30 amps or something. it is a 15awg cable! maybe van den hul is not that great? just something for me to worry about. it has powered a amp that draws 9 amps for over 2 years so i figure if it was going to explode it would have happened already. it sounds good for it's price.

 edit: i take it if it is bright green it is fake. also if it comes in a plastic bag. mine is gold/brown and came in a nice plastic padded box. to make matters worse van den hul sells bulk cable. you can have a legit cable that someone terminated. i have seen them with schurters. then the specs state 2x line+2x neutral+ 1x ground. the cable they show has 3x line+3x neutral + 1x ground. i saw one that i am pretty sure is real and the colors of the dielectrics are different than the ones on abay from hong kong. mine has the real colors as well. it is confusing but i am pretty sure mine is real. i wish van den hul would be more clear about all of this.

 music_man


----------



## SleepyOne

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *music_man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i have a van den hul mainsstream. i bought it from an authorized dealer. van den hul's website is not very clear on the issue of fakes. then there is some dealers website that shows a fake one apparently that looks just like a real one but they claim it is more flexible. i would not say mine is very flexible. they have me wondering what i have. the problem is that what they say is signs of a fake appear on the real one many people have stated. sometimes van den hul used a small "v" sometimes a big one and other minor things. i guess i can just rest assured that i bought it from an authorized dealer then. i saw the ones in hong kong on ebay. that is certainly not what i have and those are the fakes. van den hul should be more clear on what is actually a fake imo. mine is gold not yellow/green i don't know if that alone comfirms it is real.

 anyhow i like this cable. another strange thing is it says it handles 30 amps or something. it is a 15awg cable! maybe van den hul is not that great? just something for me to worry about. it has powered a amp that draws 9 amps for over 2 years so i figure if it was going to explode it would have happened already. it sounds good for it's price.

 edit: i take it if it is bright green it is fake. also if it comes in a plastic bag. mine is gold/brown and came in a nice plastic padded box. to make matters worse van den hul sells bulk cable. you can have a legit cable that someone terminated. i have seen them with schurters. then the specs state 2x line+2x neutral+ 1x ground. the cable they show has 3x line+3x neutral + 1x ground. i saw one that i am pretty sure is real and the colors of the dielectrics are different than the ones on abay from hong kong. mine has the real colors as well. it is confusing but i am pretty sure mine is real. i wish van den hul would be more clear about all of this.

 music_man_

 

There is also one HK guy posting of "loose vdh mainsstream" on UK ebay, I am guessing it is the same person. It does look very suspect. Unless vdh did a major revempt, it looks nothing like it inside lol! Wires colours are wrong, no carbon fiber shielding inside the wires, stranger spacer etc. Messy!


----------



## music_man

i am almost postitve those hk ones are fake. i am also almost positive my cord is real. the problem i think is someone started making better fakes then those you see on ebay that are now surfacing. that is a real problem for vdh. now they cannot even tell you how to check! plus vdh has made some mistakes thmeselves. for instance some of their real cords have a small v and some have a capital v! that does not help things. if you look at their own picture it has asmall v but it says it must have a capital v to be real! gee whiz.

 i do think it is a nice cable and i do think mine is real. the fake ones should be obvious, they are supposed to be worse quality than home depot.

 i wanted to mention about that post above. do not use the pass and seymour plug ends. they grip the cable in a manner that crushes the cable. not unsafe with a heavy cable but very bad for sound. get a bryant or hubbbel at a mom and pop hardware store. alos, leviton outlets are very good and better than p&s. the industrial grade is a fine outlet. my entire home has them.

 music_man


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *minimus* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_According to a post on Audiogon by his wife, Michael Wolff recently died. So alas the top-ranked cables in this review will only come up for sale used._

 

That's really too bad, Mike made some excellent products. Unfortunately several of the companies from the original roundup are now out of business or were already out of business at the time. 

 What I would like to see is a new roundup featuring the current champs - Synergistic Research, Stealth, Purist Audio Design, Kubala Sosna, Audio Magic, Aural Symphonics, Dream State, Elrod, JPS, Shunyata, and Nordost.


----------



## Seamaster

Thanks Markl for the hard work that make other people's life much easier.

 I bought 2 Black Sand Cable Violet ZII with two different grade ATL end, one is @ $260 upgrade option. Got both cables used in like new condition for $550 shipped and paypaled, great deal. They are very flexble and very easy to work with, and craftmanship is right on. Every thing in your reviews pretty much right on. But there is only two thing I would like to add. The vocal with ZII could be just little more sweet, and little more forward, would be nice. But for the price I paid, they are very good cables. They improve sound more on amp that CDP. Thanks again.


----------



## music_man

the hong kong guys have a bunch of stuff on the bay tonite. i wouldn't buy that. they do have a lot of good feedback though.

 i am thinking it is possible these companies lost or had stolen bulk cable. or it just got into the wrong hands. they may be saying they are "fake" not in the true term of fake though. they just might be very mad this happened to them. these guys have them terminated with different connectors and they are in techflex. they have pictures of the inside of two obviously different cables on different auctions. i guess i will never know what the real story of this is. i just wouldn't buy it thats all i know. they have a lot of other companies cables as well. i have no idea what is going on there.

 music_man


----------



## Jon L

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seamaster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_But there is only two thing I would like to add. The vocal with ZII could be just little more sweet, and little more forward, would be nice._

 

ZI and ZII sound fairly different, and from what you say, you may even prefer ZI, which does have more rich and forward mids, albeit with less precision. 

Review: Black Sands Violet ZII Power Cord


----------



## Seamaster

Thanks, I will look into that.

 Anyone tried JPS products? I visited ModWright shop, he use JPS as reference cable. Those cables look nothing special, but sounded serious. I can't tell how good they sound, since only for short time, and unfamilar setup.


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Seamaster* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone tried JPS products? I visited ModWright shop, he use JPS as reference cable. Those cables look nothing special, but sounded serious. I can't tell how good they sound, since only for short time, and unfamilar setup._

 

I don't know too much about the low and mid-range JPS products, but the top end Aluminata is somewhat popular among reviewers and some manufacturers. I'm pretty sure Usher uses JPS Aluminata inside their Dancer series speakers. From what I've read the sound is a bit polarizing, and will either blow you away or bore you. Eventually I'd like to try some against Tesla Apex and Indra or Sakra.


----------



## music_man

there is a problem with power cords assuming you believe in them to begin with. ee background tells me differently but i still do. they are not like components where they are relatively easy to audition and pick out which ones you like. you can spend a lot of time and a fortune trying to get the right ones for your system. out of 20 expensive cables, only one might be the right one for you and your component. then figure you have at least 6 or so components.

 now you guys are talking about botique cables not from the large manufacturers and this throws even more choices into the mix. i am always left wondering if i could have gotten a better cable. i am happy with what i have so i think i should stop looking for something better or i will eventually go crazy!

 the intresting thing is the botique cables seem to be less money and higher quality then the super expensive ones from the big names. i wish i had tried those. i am going to quit before i go insane though.

 music_man


----------



## Seamaster

All the cables I have, they all sounding good exception for Cardas golden reference. But they all have one or two audioble draw back some how and in some area. It is truly hard to get things right......

 JPS Aluminata it is out of my price range. But thanks for the input, as they are polarized


----------



## music_man

that figures, the golden reference is on the headamp i am using right now. i guess it's not for everyone then. sounds good to me. i am not that picky about cords though. i just like collecting them, and working up quite a collection i am!

 music_man


----------



## DaveBSC

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *music_man* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_now you guys are talking about botique cables not from the large manufacturers and this throws even more choices into the mix. i am always left wondering if i could have gotten a better cable. i am happy with what i have so i think i should stop looking for something better or i will eventually go crazy!

 the intresting thing is the botique cables seem to be less money and higher quality then the super expensive ones from the big names. i wish i had tried those. i am going to quit before i go insane though.

 music_man_

 

That's the thing about power cords, designing a really stellar one is totally different from interconnects and speaker cables, and the big name companies like Audioquest, Kimber, Cardas, and MIT don't really seem to understand how to do them properly. 

 I've tried lots of different cords. Some of them made absolutely no difference from a stock cord. Most of them changed the sound in some way, for better or worse. Only a select few have really brought huge across the board improvements with no drawbacks, but when they really gel with a piece of equipment, it's like nothing else. 

 I'm currently using Synergistic Designer's Reference X2 cords, which I'm quite happy with, and when I do eventually get around to upgrading, it will probably be to Synergistic Hologram A on the KGSS and Hologram D on whatever my ultimate DAC ends up being, with everything being fed by a Tesla Powercell.


----------



## fhuang

anyone have any gutwire cable? i'm thinking of getting a gutwire 3.1 for my cd player.


----------



## pdhanwada

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mlhm5* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Every single recording studio has one of these, yet they don't have expensive power cords. That's something they don't spend their money on.

 Why do they use an isolation transformer? 

 Well because it is a surge supressor, a line conditioner and on top of that it eliminates all ground loop problems, all EMI/RFI noise, equipment generated odd harmonics and takes care of all the problems between the power plant and the studio.

 For less than $200, you can rest assured that all those problems will be solved, something an expensive power cord cannot do.

 You can buy 250W, 500W and 1000W depending what you plug into it. The 250W is as cheap as $90 and the 500W for $149 + shipping. That's more than enough for most systems.







Isolation Transformer_

 


 What do you mean by a isolation transformer. Over here in India we have voltage stabilizers. Which will moderate teh the higher and lower voltage comming from the power supplies.

 Is this the same.

 Let me know.


----------



## tosehee

I am not a power cord believer, but I appreciate all the hard work put into making this great review.


----------



## Paul J.

An isolation transformer is no panacea. Those are some outlandish claims. I don't understand how an isolation transformer on the AC line would have any effect on ground loops. Surely you aren't suggesting you run the safety earth through a transformer! That would be incredibly dangerous. A IE core transformer may filter some noise, but a good toroid will pass those high harmonics right through due to their wide bandwidth. Many isolation transformers will also make some mechanical noise, especially if you've got DC on the line. And, surge suppression here is like current limiting, right? So where does that leave us? It could filter some RFI/EMI noise. Maybe.

 Now the line level 1:1 transformers would cure a ground loop. And, unless they are extremely expensive (and even then) they'd also greatly limit bandwidth and introduce all sorts of phase errors. That's what cheap transformers do. Expensive ones are less bad, but there are still much better ways to create a low pass filter that limits RFI/EMI or break up a ground loop. As a quick fix between low-fi components (or on a CATV line), they might be a fine idea. But, I fail to see how they are the correct solution to grounding or noise issues in perfectionist audio. (If you need to match impedances or do I/V conversion, then they pose advantages over an active stage).

 Not that I'm a transformer hater. I've got them at each end of my system between the transducer and active circuitry (MC step ups at one end, OPT's at the other). And, I've got a 35lb 10A isolation transformer on my bench. It won't be used as a substitute for my $16 power cords anytime soon, though I have contemplated running all my digital stuff through it to keep the noise away from the rest of the system.

 Paul


----------



## sampson_smith

Thanks for the awesome, expansive, epic review, Mark. It is very much appreciated!


----------



## fhuang

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *sampson_smith* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Thanks for the awesome, expansive, epic review, Mark. It is very much appreciated! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


 this thread sure is awesome. thanks Mark. care to do a new review? this is 2010


----------



## gooky

Hey, I just wanted to thank you too, I was amazed at the difference better power cords could make, and how it made components that were "okay" become "great." And I don't think I would have ever realized it without this review. 
 And Jon L, thanks for your comparison between the two versions of the black sand cord. Definitely gives me something to think about. And burn more money on...


----------



## jawohlol

I wonder whether you would hear the difference between a 2$ cord not designed for audio transmission (lol) and those cables costing more than 100x as much..


----------



## BIG POPPA

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jawohlol* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I wonder whether you would hear the difference between a 2$ cord not designed for audio transmission (lol) and those cables costing more than 100x as much.._

 

Easily. Better yet, make one yourself with 200.00 of Plugs and cable. It is amazing on the improvement. There are good companies like Oyaide, Furutech, WBT, to get stuff from.


----------



## tekdemon

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *BIG POPPA* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Easily. Better yet, make one yourself with 200.00 of Plugs and cable. It is amazing on the improvement. There are good companies like Oyaide, Furutech, WBT, to get stuff from._

 

No you'd *think* that you heard a difference but unless you're double blinded you have no way of preventing a placebo effect. And since placebo works even on actual diseases it'll definitely work on the disease of audiophilia 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Seriously, unless you have 2 friends-one who knows the brand of the cable and one who doesn't, and you have the one who does know the brand names remove all the markings and such then hand the cable to your other friend (who doesn't know), who then switches them for you while you gauge the sound there's just too much room for bias. Even single blinded if your friend knows which cable is cheap and which is expensive they're liable to have facial expressions that would clue you in.

 Now if you want to pay $900 so you feel good and am totally convinced that the sound is better then it's your choice but I'll bet you cold hard cash that if you brought your cables along to me and I double blinded you, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. Of course then the really nutty ones will probably blame my the wiring in my home for messing with their $900 power cable


----------



## BIG POPPA

It is really not that hard to notice the difference really if you are using cables that are different. Done this experiment made 2 cables exactly the same but one had Furutech Gold plugs and one with Rhodium. One sounded tall one sounded wide. Had 2 other Head-fiers around. You could make both cables for about 200 bucks.


----------



## Lil' Knight

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *BIG POPPA* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Done this experiment made 2 cables exactly the same but one had Furutech Gold plugs and one with Rhodium. One sounded tall one sounded wide._

 

You must have golden ears, I must say.


----------



## Currawong

You can buy a Juice Box Jr (power filter?) from TTVJ from as little as $175 too, which has two sockets, one for your amp and one for your source. It made a bigger difference than my DIY $100 power cords did. I did think for a while I must be nuts thinking that the power cords I have made any difference, but I did change them around recently and there was a distinct tonal change in my gear. Overall though, I'd go for the bigger brother of the above-mentioned unit if I were to do things again, which, IIRC, is about $500, and I have at least 5 power cables, so it would be worth it for me.

 tekdemon: By the way, please notice the "DBT-free" in the forum title, before you post again, if you're going to do so.


----------



## BIG POPPA

Not golden ears. Just notice any change to my rig. Use a CD player not a computer. DO Not Use A Preamp. Just a simple CD > Amp. Not too hard really.


----------



## sachu

Just got some power cords done today..

 The two silver ones are Einstein's "The Power Cord" clones while the black braided ones are regular home wiring cable I was told to try by my audiophile friends in India.

 Need to borrow a heat-gun so i can square them away..till then..they are already installed in my system. The black cable is on my main amp while the Einstein cords are on my EHHA and DAC. The second of the black cables is missing a female IEC jack..will probably pick up a Schruter and terminate it here soon.


----------



## iPhone4G

Please help me here

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f21/it...viewed-219202/


----------



## unfairlane

> It`s years since I came over this old hifi-knowledge, but the way to make the best powercables are primarely based on two things; proper shielding and well sized single solid core conductors.


----------



## WalterSobchak

So I'm assuming these cables don't apply to portable amps such as ibasso/meier/RSA/etc?


----------



## Currawong

Walter: No. Portables use batteries.


----------



## WalterSobchak

Quote: 





currawong said:


> Walter: No. Portables use batteries.


 

 But some have power cords as well...


----------



## zenpunk

Funniest thread, ever...lol


----------



## Black Stuart

I remember this thread from a few years ago.
  It started me on the whole cable thing but I gave up on making power cable and concentrated on i/cs. I reached the end game on i/cs just  a few months ago and decided to surf once again in the hope that I would find what I could'nt find a few years ago.
   
  I live in France now and came across a French component supply company. Looking through their wire section I saw the Yarbo power cord and it was exactly what I had been searching for @ €17.50 per metre it had to be worth a punt. It's made with flat stranded copper and each conductor bundle is sheilded and the whole sheilded again. It's pretty beafy @18mm but quite flexible none the less. I used 'supposedly' knock-off Oyaide Schuko/IEC plugs I bought from Hong Kong.
   
  I use it at present on my Bada h/amp and from new there was nothing unpleasant added to the sound of a very neutral and revealing and much modded h/amp. It still does'nt have that many hours, perhaps 60-70 but whatever type of music I play has more air, is more relaxed, the sound is just a little warmer but in a natural way with no loss of detail.
   
  I have to say that it is OTT for a h/amp but as I intend to order the power equivalent of the PH12, namely the PH32 this is where it will be used. Sadly Yarbo don't make a less beafy power cable more suited to h/amps or CDPs.
   
  I now would never use sheilded i/cs  but power cords carry a lot of juice and sheilding the conductors from each other and sheilding the whole makes a lot of sense. I am about to order a balanced power supply, this is what recording studios use. A BPS cancels out noise so there's a good chance that this Yarbo cable will perform even better when fed juice from it.
   
   Supposedly Yarbo is a German company that manufactures in China and is based in Hong Kong because the English is not perfect I have my doubts but not about the product,it is extremely well made and I don't know of any other commercial offering that (a) sheilds the individual conductor bundles and double sheilds  all of them again.


----------



## pompon

The last weekend, I tested few powercords again ...
  The result ... I buyed a new powercord again ... 
   
  When you have a good system with a good transparency, powercord, interconnect, speaker cables, digital cable matter ...


----------



## BournePerfect

I just ordered Decware's DHC1 power cable today. It is a 10 AWG silver plated copper design, from an incredible American hand-made only company, and I'm pretty excited to try it out! Anybody happen to have any impressions of this cable, or one of a similar design?
   
  -Daniel


----------



## Jon L

Quote: 





bourneperfect said:


> I just ordered Decware's DHC1 power cable today. It is a 10 AWG silver plated copper design, from an incredible American hand-made only company, and I'm pretty excited to try it out! Anybody happen to have any impressions of this cable, or one of a similar design?
> 
> -Daniel


 

[size=larger][size=larger]MODEL DHC-1[/size][/size]
[size=10pt]10 AWG Multi Conductor Silver Plated Copper. Teflon jacketed with a 3 wire braid.  
 5 foot length.[/size][size=10pt]*  *[/size]
   
  Did you hear how these cords sound from some place?  Looks to be three 10 AWG teflon-coated silver-plated copper cable in tri-wire braid.  For fun, I recommend you go to your local surplus electric store and pick up some "military spec" 10 AWG teflon silver-plated copper wire for cents/foot and braid them to compare..
   
  Power applications are one place where I actually don't mind silver-plated teflon wire, and I have made DIY cords using various AWG ones; different AC plugs can be used to tune the flavor a little bit..


----------



## JRG1990

I have a quick question regrading power cables, i have a stock cable thin rubbishy thing which is 13amp 250v , the spec on the unit it powers is 240v 50hz\60hz 1A , does the 1A stand for 1 amp? , so it is ok to replace the 13amp power cord with a 3amp 1 since the unit actually only requires 1amp. It's a 300watt amp so i doubt it draws in thousands of watts of power.


----------



## BournePerfect

Well I'm not into DIY, AT ALL! Just wanted to hear people's opinions on the type of sonic benefits from this type of cable. I bought from Decware because they have yet to let me down with their products, and usually have an incredible bang-for-your-buck factor. So....what type of sonic traits does this type of cable offer. I plan on using it with my Ref 9, feeding a Concerto/LCD2.
   
  -Daniel

  
  Quote: 





jon l said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## haloxt

What I notice from very thick power cables is a more stable soundstage and ambiance, blacker background, and transients don't smear as much. Only tried plain copper though.


----------



## BournePerfect

Thanks haloxt, that's the kind of answer I'm looking for! Anything that improves soundstaging sounds like a plus for the Audeze.
   
  -Daniel


----------



## JRG1990

This thread conviced me to give a new power cord a go, i brought the DSP 1.0 Dual Screened power cable - Figure 8  from from www.markgrantcables.co.uk , for my edifier S730 system , having the extra shielding cleaned up the sound like i expected the bookshelf speakers have a slightly cleaner sound, the biggest difference is with the sub it gained a whole new sound, about 30% more powerful and with a alot more clairty to the bass sound now every single bass note is delivered crystal clear , with quicker responce , and about 30% more power (thump). The cable was well worth the £50.


----------



## p a t r i c k

Quote: 





jrg1990 said:


> I have a quick question regrading power cables, i have a stock cable thin rubbishy thing which is 13amp 250v , the spec on the unit it powers is 240v 50hz\60hz 1A , does the 1A stand for 1 amp? , so it is ok to replace the 13amp power cord with a 3amp 1 since the unit actually only requires 1amp. It's a 300watt amp so i doubt it draws in thousands of watts of power.


 


  If the unit only requires 1 amp then a 3 amp cable will be fine.
   
  It is quite funny that you describe the stock cable as a "thin rubbishy thing".
   
  There won't be any advantage in using a voodoo power cable over the stock cable which you are disparaging.
   
  It is just auto-suggestion. You have prepared yourself for being impressed by the, no doubt more expensive, replacement I see by already describing your perfectly good standard cable as "rubbishy".
   
  You can put in the more expensive replacement and no doubt you will believe that the sound quality has improved in some way. But it hasn't. You will have been conned. It is true that the sound quality will appear to have been improved as long as you believe it has been  Unfortunately that belief just wears off after a while unless you keep refreshing it by reading more articles etc. promoting voodoo in cables.
   
  If I were you I would use the stock cable which will work just as well as the replacement.


----------



## JRG1990

Quote: 





p a t r i c k said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 


  I Worked it out in the end and brought the custom power cable, it made quite a huge difference actually more than i was expecting, i wasn't conned and was told i could even return the cable if i didn't hear a difference, the difference is too big to be placebo and the subwoofer defintly gained power as more of the house was shaking at lower volume levels. The cable i got was this 1 here http://markgrantcables.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=45_18&products_id=47 . Highly recommended it made a huge difference for me.


----------



## Black Stuart

Patrick,
  as always you comment on equipment you've never heard and as always you present your opinion and that's all it is, in your usual arrogant manner as stone cold fact - you need to pull your neck in pal and have some respect for what others have actually listened to and heard.
   
  You don't suggest, you dictate, have you got a funny little snot catcher moustache by any chance.
   
  Haloxt - I have to agree with what you say about large gauge conductors. I thought that paying €16.90 for a metre of the Yarbo 7000 cable was worth a punt. It's o/diameter is 16mm but it is still flexible. It uses OFC flat copper bundles and each conductor bundle is sheilded including earth and the whole sheilded again. I use it with my h/amp which I think is a bit OTT and it is the ambiance that has improved. I make my own i/cs and blackness is'nt part of their or my systems' style,rather  I like  illumination around  instruments. Bass has always been multilayered but like I say ambiance is very real.
   
  I actually emailed Yarbo to see if they would make a smaller gauge version of the 7000, more suitable for h/amps/CDPs/TTs/DACs but got no reply - how stupid  NOT to interface with clients. Anyway it is a very good power cable and used with Japanese plugs whose excess production is dumped on the Hong Kong market makes for a reasonably priced power cord, which would be good to do a head-to-head with the big bucks power cords.
   
  JRG1990 - nice to hear your enjoying what you have - it floats your boat and that's all that counts.


----------



## haloxt

What's tragic about people like patrick is they think science is a bludgeon tool, and they have the tenacity to abuse it like in patrick's attempt at playing Dr. Freud. Total disservice to everyone.


----------



## tarquineous

I don't see how anyone can tell you that a different power cord will or will not make a difference. I don't know which component you have, and neither does Patrick.
   
  What I can tell you is most CD players have a 1 amp fuse, designated by "1A". This will be marked both on the component and the fuse itself. What this means is the component operates at less than 1 amp of current flow. If something ever goes wrong inside the component, which causes it to draw more than 1 amp, the fuse element ( a very small wire in the fuse), will melt and disconnect.
   
  Now this has nothing to do with the sound of power cords on a component. Why they sound different is unknown so far.
   
  On one of my CD players, an 8 gauge cord sounds the best. Second best is a 14 gauge cord. Both of these are made by JPS Labs. The third best is another 8 gauge cord by another manufacturer. Interestingly, one of the worst sounding cords is a solid core 8 gauge.
   
  What I am getting at is, the gauge of the cord is only one factor in the design. And even if all the other factors are known, there is still no way of knowing how the cord will sound... until you plug it in and listen to it.
   
  Most of all, don't listen to "know it alls", that really know nothing pertinent, and who tell you its all imagination.
   
  The best sounding cord will be rewarding for your investment, but you will just have to try a few, maybe many.


----------



## ZeNmAc

I typed a long post responding, but then I ran into this after I typed it.  I should've just linked this to begin with.  Definitely worth a read.  Read them both, all of them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.  This guy puts things way better than I ever could.
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/531244/cables-and-snake-oil-please-read-before-you-are-fooled
http://www.ethanwiner.com/believe.html


----------



## kboe

If your a cable atheist, I suggest you give a Pangea power cable a try.  There inexpensive and work better I think than my beloved Cardas power cables.  Buy from Audio Advisor and return if you remain a cable atheist.


----------



## JRG1990

Quote: 





tarquineous said:


> I don't see how anyone can tell you that a different power cord will or will not make a difference. I don't know which component you have, and neither does Patrick.
> 
> What I can tell you is most CD players have a 1 amp fuse, designated by "1A". This will be marked both on the component and the fuse itself. What this means is the component operates at less than 1 amp of current flow. If something ever goes wrong inside the component, which causes it to draw more than 1 amp, the fuse element ( a very small wire in the fuse), will melt and disconnect.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Mine was for my edifer s730, the speakers would hiss alot and at lower volumes the hiss was louder than the music, i found out the hiss was coming from the power and i didn't want to risk changing the sound for the worst with a cheap conditioner so i got a heaily sheilded power cord, it did the job and the hiss almost completly dissappeared it is no longer audioble unless you put your ear to the speakers, the sub gained a little bit more bass power, and more defintion and fullness to the bass notes, it also sped up it was quite a slow responing sub before but isn't any more, the bookshelfs speakers gained a bit more midrange and midrange thump, and the highs were clearler now the hiss was almost gone, together as a system with the custom power cord, the sound is strangley much more immersive and it's not like that with the standard cord, i will stick with the cord i got i can't be bothered to try anymore, because i have to plug my audio gear into a extension block i did buy a silver plated audio grade mains block which has 2m of Belden 19364 cord and a silver plated mk tough plug, it provided small improvements to sound in the same way as my custom power cord, for my soundcard m-audio audiophile usb i got a 9v psu from a numark mixer it has much thicker gauge wire and is of much better quality i re-terminated it with a mk silver plated tough plug and added ferrite clamps, now the m-audio has alot fuller sound and more detail in the lower frequences it takes it up a few more levels in terms of soun dquality , custom power cords how worked really well for me so far, and i can't normally hear a difference between cables, usb cables all sound pretty much the same to me, so does speaker cable and other analog  interconnects.


----------



## JerryLove

Perhaps we should put real numbers on these? What percentage of lands are read as pits (or vice-versa) on an individual power cord?
  
  If we ever start putting CD / DVD / BD in computers, even a single misread bit has a good chance of causing a complete failure. For there to be something audiable: the power-cord must be introducing at least several a second. I actually do have software that monitors for soft read errors. It's odd, on clean disks the rate is 0. (and consumer audio CD players have been using computer CD-ROM hardware for years... it prevents skipping on most disks).
   
  Perhaps the problem wasn't in the read laser? Perhaps the problem is in the digital media converter. We see that in my world too. In fact, I use an ethernet-fiber converter to run a trunk to the other side of the house... similar to the optical cable on your CD (though mine does error-check). How many errors do you think I'll see per second with a random power cord?
   
  What? Not there? Well, many CDs are connecting HDMI these days. Turns out my computer has one of those too (they are, it seems, just DVI with extra signals added). Shall I search my monitor for off-color pixels?
   
  Odd. So many places that even the smallest of errors would call attention to itself and there's no evidence at all. It's almost as though (reasonably built) power cables don't affect the systems at all... and by almost I mean "clearly and exactly"


----------



## kboe

Isn't this kinda like a food critic saying he doesn't trust his own taste buds, but you should believe him when he says all burgers taste the same?


----------



## JerryLove

Quote:


kboe said:


> Isn't this kinda like a food critic saying he doesn't trust his own taste buds, but you should believe him when he says all burgers taste the same?


 
   
  Umm. No?
   
  How is pointing out that the number of read errors caused by power cables is "zero" like a food critic discussing hamburgers?
   
  How is pointing out that the change in the bitstream caused by power cables is "zero" like a food critic discussing hamburgers?
   
  No. I think this is more like someone saying that McDonald's hamburger is bigger than Chili's hamburger when we can easily measure that it's not.


----------



## JRG1990

I think the custom power cords work by, giving a smoother flow of eletricity and being sheilded from interference, i found a graph somewhere showing that these custom cords offer a smoother flow of eletricity il see if i can find it.


----------



## kboe

Opps, sorry. I was not referencing your post specifically JerryLove, but the argument that one can not trust ones own ears.  Should've made that more clear, my bad.  That I posted it after yours didn't help either.


----------



## JerryLove

Oh. My mistake. Carry on


----------



## Mdraluck23

I have no experience with custom power cables, but IMHO, it seems like the differences they would make would be soooo very minimal that a "Review" would be near impossible. If you are hearing such large, discernable differences markl, then thats great for you!


----------



## minimus

Quote: 





mdraluck23 said:


> I have no experience with custom power cables, but IMHO, it seems like the differences they would make would be soooo very minimal that a "Review" would be near impossible. If you are hearing such large, discernable differences markl, then thats great for you!


 
   

 It depends on your definition of minimal.  I have found that power cord and interconnect changes can have as big an impact on the sound signature of equipment as rolling  tubes. For example, I found that a Black Sand Violet power cord that cost me $125 did more to improve the sound of my Singlepower Extreme than the replacement of Sylvania 6SN7s ($80 a pair) with Mullard ECC32 (around $575 a pair).


----------



## Mdraluck23

Well, I understand that when you get down to it, going for a 1% increase on a 99/100 rig that already costs $5,000 could cost you ~200 in power cords. It just seems, to my limited experiences, that the difference would be almost subliminal at that point.


----------



## minimus

Not quite subliminal.  I will give you an example...since Kaplan power cords are highly regarded on Audiogon, I called a dealer (TweekGeek.com) who offers a 30-day trial on everything he sells, including Kaplan power cords.  I found that the Kaplan power cord -- at $600 or so -- sounded thin and somewhat fatiguing compared to the Black Sand power cord.  Maybe my subconscious was urging me to return the more expensive power cord, I don't know, but I definitely thought the Black Sand power cord sounded a lot better than the Kaplan power cord, rather than improving sound quality by only 1%. 
   
  But I do agree with you that playing around with power cords only makes sense if you have pretty good component equipment.  Spending more than a few percent of your total budget on such things is generally a bad idea.


----------



## Mdraluck23

O.K.
   
  But a power cord doesn't carry any _music _signal. How could It change a "sound"? It could supply a cleaner signal _to your amp. _Doesn't an amp do exactly that though, clean the signal/supply power? A power cord helps supply SUPER CLEANED electricity? Why not extend the review to determine what else is hooked up to your outlet and what lights are on etc. 
   
  I am willing to accept that it could make a difference. I guess I'd just love to hear it at some point in my life! I doubt a new power cable would improve my laptop's SQ....


----------



## PhaedraCorruption

I recently aquired a 2m Cardas Golden Power Cable and I'm wondering if I should be hooking it up to my Parasound DAC or my Matrix-M Stage? I understand that the cable probobly is a no brainer to be hooking up to gear like this, but I have no other use for it and don't intend to sell it. From what I read in the review, it would be best to hook it up to the DAC which is connected to my PC, but in other posts, like Mdraluck23's, the argument is that the power cord should be hooked up to your amp. Any ideas?


----------



## Mdraluck23

Quote: 





phaedracorruption said:


> I recently aquired a 2m Cardas Golden Power Cable and I'm wondering if I should be hooking it up to my Parasound DAC or my Matrix-M Stage? I understand that the cable probobly is a no brainer to be hooking up to gear like this, but I have no other use for it and don't intend to sell it. From what I read in the review, it would be best to hook it up to the DAC which is connected to my PC, but in other posts, like Mdraluck23's, the argument is that the power cord should be hooked up to your amp. Any ideas?


 

 I thought it was amp.... If it isn't then I have no idea what I'm saying.


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## Snips

Since we're on the topic of power cords, anyone here have heard of or used Telos Audio power cables?


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## JRG1990

I've tried a few power cords on various devices, it all depends on the device to whether theres a difference the cords seem to condition the power or block out RFI but it depends on how good the power circuits are in the device to whether the cord makes a difference, my power amp has the most expensive cord consiting of silver plated mk plug , 2m of belden 19364 and IeGo Silver Plated IEC and 2 ferrites and theres no difference between that and the stock cord same for my sub, my TV has a simlar cord silver plated perma plug, 1.5m of belden 19364 and martin kaiser Silver Plated IEC and 2 ferrites, I can see the difference between this and the stock cord theres less noise and the colours are deeper, my edifier s730 also sounds better with a fancy cord. I don't think theres a difference between a £50 shielded cord and a £500 shielded cord also the gauge of the wire makes no difference.


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## tarquineous

JRG, 
   
  At least you did some testing. You need to get away from the Belden power cords to get a significant difference. Notice I say difference, not necessarily better.
   
  I strongly suggest, at not too high of price points, the Mojo Audio 8 gauge ( not because of the gauge), and the JPS Labs Digital AC.
   
  Silver power cords are excellent on video, but not on audio. I don't know why, and neither does anyone else ( at least I haven't heard of anyone knowing why).
   
  Pure silver conductors give a better picture than silver plated conductors. But they are more expensive. If you're into DIY, Use a short all silver power cord to a PLC or high quality power strip. 
   
  Best of luck !


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## JRG1990

I am in the UK , so my choice is limted to whats avaible here http://www.mains-cables-r-us.co.uk/ and here http://markgrantcables.co.uk/ , and i won't spend any more money on power cords the belden 19364 is good enough and the cable for my tv cost less than £30 it's the only cable i own where i feel i got my moneys worth, silver is more conductive than copper and brass yes but i fail to see where it makes a difference to a device that draws only 180watts, my power strip is a high quality strip it's a 6way silver plated block, with 2m of Lapp Olflex Classic CY and silver plated mk plug with 13amp pure silver hifi tuning fuse and large ferrite it doesn't seem to make any difference over the £10 tacima 6way it replaced.


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## tarquineous

Expensive fuses really rub me the wrong way. I've tried a silver fuse, and it did sound different, but not better. In a fuse shoot-out I read recently, the ceramic cased ones were favored over glass. The favorite was the Acme, which is a silver plated, relatively ordinary fuse, yet with the ceramic casing. PS Audio and Furutech make a similar fuse at a slightly higher price. But then it gets absurd after those. And the difference is very small, so beware of exotic fuse BS.
   
  Since you are in the UK, there is Audusa, who makes a specialty power cord at a low price. They also import LAT from the US, which has been favored over many high priced cords.
   
  In the US, there is Cobalt Cable, another well reviewed cable line, with low prices.
   
  I've gone through several high priced power cords, and the ones I have kept are very good, but component specific. One may be excellent on a CD player, or tubed headphone amp, for example, and not very good at all on other equipment. Power cords are largely unpredictable. The only consistency I have experienced is with the pure silver on video screens, and solid core copper on tubed components.


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## Hosh

Guys, you should seriously try out this audiophile power cord - BrunsAudio AC Powercord - Enigma (German DIY). The price - less then half of the high end ones. The sound - like a 10++ ones. I just gave away my Furutech in exchange for this cable cos' it blew my mind away with absolute listening pleasure


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## FormosaWest

Power cables.. i get it, but then again i don't, My brain tells me the nicest looking and feeling cables must sound the best,... But my mood does more to that effect than cables themselves as ive already decided what i like or don't without any audition. That goes for the stock cables.. They look plain, therefore sound plain when i think of it. Looking at nice cables i think, "those must sound good" but.. Electricity and sound  shouldnt be affected by fancy cable housing or exuberent numbers of .9. If someone could find the best sounding cable alive and then Dress it up as ugly as possible, tape it up in random spots and slobber it in paint and stick it on a shelf with a 100.00 price tag i doubt ill think it sounds good no matter how long i listened to it. Even if it was a grand.. No difference. But id think of it differently.
   
  Perception of sound is the only thing swapping reasonable well made and selected power cables is likely to do.
  i see these things costing more than decent components. My better judgement tells me its best to put the money into things that have greater impact, like music or components, or listening chair, or acoustic room treatment. ..its easy to get caught up in the components rather than the music.
  I often find myself googling power cords because i like the bling... But when i remind myself that thats all it is, and consider buying music instead, and just listen and enjoy.. The temptation passes for a day or so. Stock cables packaged with high end equipment is just fine... And its certified. Last thing you'd want is an electrical event and a voided warranty (of say a surge unit) or insurance policy.. 
  Thats my thought on it anyways. As long as the cable stays cool, drapes ok and has no risk of shorting I'm happy. I use shielded balanced interconnects just for good measure and thats it to protect from power noise.
   
  Power-cables should be low on the priority of importance for system tweaking i think. If my girl friend knew i thought about buying 100.00 power cables for each component or more shed wonder why i didn't use that on a vacation, mortgage or a ring. Lol.


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## goodolcheez

Quote: 





formosawest said:


> Power cables.. i get it, but then again i don't, My brain tells me the nicest looking and feeling cables must sound the best,... But my mood does more to that effect than cables themselves as ive already decided what i like or don't without any audition. That goes for the stock cables.. They look plain, therefore sound plain when i think of it. Looking at nice cables i think, "those must sound good" but.. Electricity and sound  shouldnt be affected by fancy cable housing or exuberent numbers of .9. If someone could find the best sounding cable alive and then Dress it up as ugly as possible, tape it up in random spots and slobber it in paint and stick it on a shelf with a 100.00 price tag i doubt ill think it sounds good no matter how long i listened to it. Even if it was a grand.. No difference. But id think of it differently.


 
  That logic doesn't work.  My recently bought Shunyata Research Venom 3 power cord is plugged to source (HTPC). It's inside the wine cabinet so I can't see the cable. After a couple of days I have forgotten what cable I have in it. All I do is listen to music, better word, sound.  In some songs I am getting mid-high frequency detail pop from the background. They come up clear, sometimes strong (more so than the instruments played in the foreground). Music shines at higher frequencies, it's crisper up top.  These aren't something I was getting with the stock power cord before.   Bad news is that I lost bass power. The impact of the bass has decreased, another way to put, it lost contrast.   Not sure if it needs more burn-in as the cord has been used for 2 days.  High's are good, but the low punch lacks. In my case, the bass is more powerful and weighty with the stock power cord....
   
   
  I need a better power cord son.   Even more bad news is that my White Night Power distributor might be lost, as I've been waiting for the shipment for 6 weeks now.  Patrick and I are getting ready for backup plan....
   
   
  ol'cheez


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## FormosaWest

I know exactly what you mean ol'cheez. I _feel_ like I can hear differences in power cords, but I cant help but doubt myself. My trained scientific logically minded brain wants peer reviewed double blind random controlled head to head and tells me to smarten up and be happy, but my eccentric musically minded brain says - just go for it and swap the cables for something 'nicer.'
   
  It just doesnt make sense to me that I should hear differences in power cables... Am I actually hearing a difference or is it just that _I like the system_ better when nicer, heavier cables are attached and therefore perceive the music as being smoother. This is what i cant sort out.. and the temptation to spend money on power cables jostles around with my priorites! Im hesitant to go the DIY route with power cables exclusively for the reason of safety certification - which i dont want to mess around with, though i feel more than confident i could make a decent set quite easily from quality bulk cable and connectors.
  What gives!? Im I imagining the differences, or are they real?
   
  You guys must know exactly what I mean, which is why I'm posting here. You've all gone through this situation many times i'm sure, and I'm barely looking 30y/o so i lack experience. Any advice? upgrade the stock cables and satisfy the urge or try and forget about it and buy a few more albums...











   
   
  Thoughts on the Pangea Audio or PS Audio power cables?
  I dont want to go nuts on this, but i think a nice handsome set of power cords might dress up the system some.. but then again, its all tucked away in the back anyways...


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## neurofone

It's the Stephen Colbert Truthiness vs truth debate.   Your gut tells you there's a difference (that's truthiness), but your scientifically reasoned left brain tells you it's not likely to be possible.  Until there's a double blind study performed on a group of "audiophiles", all these posts of people saying they hear a difference are simply claims of truthiness, and not verified truth.  If it sounds better to them, good for them, but it's sad to see such general unawareness of perception biases.   Expectations and biases play a larger role in perception than most people realize. Not just in audio, but in everything. There was just an article recently in Lifehacker about this: [size=small]http://lifehacker.com/5990737/why-we-cant-tell-good-wine-from-bad?tag=wine[/size]
   
And if I understand correctly, this power cord review was done in the complete open without even masking the visual appearance of the cords or switching them blindly by a 3rd party.  Everyone is simply trusting this reviewer's ears and assuming no expectations are entering his brain when he changes a cord. It really doesn't make sense to me.


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## ACDOAN

I am looking for a couple power cords for my Adam A3x which will be here in a couple days.
   
  The first thing the local dealer will recommend the Shunyata. I am in no way to knock down the any brand name . I do believe power cords do make a difference but it is not necessay an improvement as some one already said.
   
  Back in the younger days, I tried the PS Audio power cords ( do not remember the series) on my Krell CDP and my Krell 400 xi integrated. At first, I was floored by the details, transparency of the PS Audio power cords but after a few days, the sound turned dark and heavy, so I went back to the stock power cords and was happy again.
   
  I did post my experience with the PS Audio power cords on the Audiogon forum and there were couple audiophiles had the same experience.
   
   
  Why ? I did not have the answer and so were them. Anyone care to enlighten me?


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## goodolcheez

Shunyata Research Venom 3 cable gave me good open treble note with an added detail in the upper registers.  But it lacked bass and impact. It really hurt the overall dynamics. I had to let that go.... Don't get me wrong, the treble sounded nice and pretty addicting.  You may want to try out the Zitron model... it may give you bass, lol.
   
  I now have White Night Power 2M and 5M cables.  Best cables I have ever had.


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## Mediahound

Why audio power cables make no difference (from Kurt of Blue Jeans Cable)- 
   
  http://www.audioholics.com/education/cables/power-cables


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## neurofone

Great article Phototristan!    I've been a Blue Jeans fan after their open letter reply to the Monster lawyers


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## DragonOwen

Quote: 





goodolcheez said:


> Shunyata Research Venom 3 cable gave me good open treble note with an added detail in the upper registers.  But it lacked bass and impact. It really hurt the overall dynamics. I had to let that go.... Don't get me wrong, the treble sounded nice and pretty addicting.  You may want to try out the Zitron model... it may give you bass, lol.


 
  I tried Cobra and Python ZTron power cord on my rig thanks to my friend, he also gave me for listening Kubala-Sosna Elation power cord and Kubala-Sosna Emotion XLR interconnects... so after some listening of this cables in random configuration I decided that I just need Shunyata ZTron power cord on my HP amp (WooAudio WES) it gave me some great overall upgrade in sound over my Neotech NEP-3200 that I was usibg on my WES... Cobra was great, but the Space with Python, it's amazing resolution and natural timbres was too much for me to ignore, so I decide to choose between Python and Anaconda... Eventually I decided to buy Anaconda to close the question of power cord to my HP amp (also my motivation was that Anaconda is mainly for amps, it's 7AWG while Python is 9AWG, as I understand on source Python will be = Anaconda in terms of sound...)...
   
  Just got Anaconda yesterday, so can't actually comment on sound yet, but according to my initial impressions Anaconda worth it's money for me, it's have benefits of both Cobra (dynamic, impact, emotionality) and Python (fantastic space and localization of sound sources, amazing resolution, natural timbres) when I'm using it with amp... but it's only initial impressions, it may change in time, also I don't have Cobra and Python right now, so comparission is based on my memory, so my comments on this term is not very reliable...
   
  If someone interested, I post some photos of my Anaconda ZTron here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/641640/new-audio-gear-pictures/75#post_9727584
   
  BTW there is a need for a lot of good bass (Anaconda have less bass, at least for now, maybe something will change after some burning in...) and you like juicy saturated timres than Neotech NEP-3200 is a way to go, but IMO it's good only for a amp, for a source components NEP-3200 have too much troubles with space and it doesn't have great resolution (I think that power cord for a source must have great resolution and space)...
   
  P.S. Sorry for my poor English...


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## Griploc

Could you review the Stefan AudioArt Endorphin Ribbon Power Cable? I'm curious to see how it stands up to the other cables you had reviewed. Apparently it surpassed PC's thousands of dollars past it's price. My whole system is rigged with SAA Endorphin cabling but I don't know how the others sound compared to it.


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## music_man

if you are into quail/jellyfish, cables to go(c2g) makes the same thing and it seems to be more readily available. just figured i'd mention since it's worth the 15 bucks.
 turns out these are a slightly upgraded naim tibia cord made by wel-shin in Taiwan.


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## Luminette

Question.. so these cables from C2G are supposed to be equivalent to the jellyfish (According to the post above me and what I've heard elsewhere) .. but if you compare:
  
 http://www.cablestogo.com/product/48007
  
 to
  
 http://www.cablestogo.com/product/48008
  
 They appear to be the exact same cables in everything except for coloration?  But such a big price difference?  I'm tempted to go for the one that looks just like the jellyfish did, just because of the looks.  But how likely is it that there is any physical difference?  And why are they priced so differently?  What would you do?


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## Shane Sean

Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant. Thank you so much Mark your work is grandly appreciated. You should have a pay-pal donation button I bet we would all throw you 5 bucks. I'll just add a couple things I noticed myself that may be of value.    There seems to be someone cryo freezing a cord that looks like the iron lung jellyfish and selling it on ebay as sonikleer for a budget price.    Can anyone attest to the "flavor" cryo freezing adds or doesn't add??   I myself took the time to compare two power strips in my house, a monster power strip, and a *S**upra MD-06US *from ebay. Wow what a difference! More difference than the budget cords I compared! Monster had better tight and loud highs, but the supra had soooo much more bass. It seemed like the monster ate all the bass. The supra was also more airy, perhaps slacked away a little of the highs but the high's sound was light and crystally. I ended up getting another supra and retiring my older monster. (I think it was the HT700)


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## Oddio 1

I realize this is a really old thread, but for people who come across this post, let me know the next time you hear about someone who was cured of cancer by a placebo. It seems I'm always hearing about how the placebo effect can make your system sound better and how it is so powerful it can cure diseases. So if you know someone close to you who had cancer and was cured by this miraculous placebo, please spread the word to all the audiophiles so that they may saves thousands of dollars.


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## khughes44

Audiophiles are not interested in saving thousands of dollars. They are interested in spending thousands of dollars. That's what makes them audiophiles.


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## richard51

khughes44 said:


> Audiophiles are not interested in saving thousands of dollars. They are interested in spending thousands of dollars. That's what makes them audiophiles.


 
 You are soo much right... They dont want to experiment they want ready made solutions........


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## Oddio 1

You couldn't be more wrong in your thinking. I've been buying and listening to high end gear since I was eighteen years old. I'm fifty five now and I can tell you I've spent many, many hours with my colleagues listening to every homemade cable and piece of electronics that has crossed our paths. Some of the cables fashioned by said colleagues with recipes garnered from amateurs and online groups. Without fail, the professional gear and cables always sounded better. In fact much, much better. If we could we would love to save money buying cheaper cables and equipment but we've become accustomed to reference sound. You seem to have some sort of insecurity with people spending more money than you in a hobby they enjoy. I can tell you that people who enjoy skiing don't skimp on their equipment or fashion homemade skis to save a couple of dollars. The same can be said for most hobbies. The professionals are almost always going to do it better.


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## richard51

oddio 1 said:


> You couldn't be more wrong in your thinking. I've been buying and listening to high end gear since I was eighteen years old. I'm fifty five now and I can tell you I've spent many, many hours with my colleagues listening to every homemade cable and piece of electronics that has crossed our paths. Some of the cables fashioned by said colleagues with recipes garnered from amateurs and online groups. Without fail, the professional gear and cables always sounded better. In fact much, much better. If we could we would love to save money buying cheaper cables and equipment but we've become accustomed to reference sound. You seem to have some sort of insecurity with people spending more money than you in a hobby they enjoy. I can tell you that people who enjoy skiing don't skimp on their equipment or fashion homemade skis to save a couple of dollars. The same can be said for most hobbies. The professionals are almost always going to do it better.


 
 If i had the same money  i would do perhaps  the same thing without too much searching for low cost solutions....I am perfectly ok with your remarks...But GENERALLY here people drived by insatisfaction invest money in more costly solutions....They exist some low cost solutions that help to transform some good system, independently of price, in a really better one....My point is research before investing money....


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## UKCoachCalipari

I missed the 10YR Anniversary of this very unique thread, although I discovered it a few years back. 

I love this thread for those times when Humor is needed, and it never disappoints..


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