# How to clean RCA jacks, power jacks, etc. & Conductivity Enhancers



## Illah

So I got a hold of a vintage DPA DAC that ran for about $1000 10 years ago. Sounds great, obviously whups my EMU0404 and way more clarity than my NAD-505 CDP. 

 Only problem - it's 10 years old 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 The RCA jacks are a little grimey as are most of the other metal connectors. Would a regular tarnish remover from Walgreens do the trick or is there a better way? I figure if it sounds this good with grimey jacks a little cleaning could give a little boost!

 Also I've heard of conductivity enhancers like Walker SST Extreme. I looked up the price of that stuff and it's way more than I'm willing to spend, is there a cheap version of the same product? Sounds like an audiophile mark-up verion on something that's $3 at Home Depot.

 Thanks!

 --Illah


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## bhd812

I am no expert at this so take my posts with a grain of salt.

 I use Craig Detoxit for everything I can use it for. To me its the best and a can lasts forever.

 I heard 99% rubbing alcohol cleans well to, never tried it even know my work sells it.

 after I clean it I SST treat everything I can safely do. its a enhancer not a cleaner


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## Oski

I use Caig DeoxIT D5 (5%) to clean the connectors first then the ProGold G5 (5%) to lubricate and preserve the connections.

 You can get the package of both for $19.50 here:

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/category.82/it.A/id.2336/.f

 I've also used Kontak in the past which worked well, but is very expensive and has a tendency to evaporate while being stored:

http://www.gcaudio.com/cgi-bin/store...duct.cgi?id=26


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## Illah

I like $19.50 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can any others vouch for this stuff?

 --Illah


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## Salt Peanuts

I've been using Caig DeoxIT and ProGold for a while now as well. DeoxIT does clean up oxidation fairly well. I'm not sure of the effect ProGold may or may not have, though, since I've never done any A/B testing and have always used it on all my cables before the cables out of habit at this point.

 They do last a long while, even if you do reapply them every 4 months or so as I've done.


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## Todd R

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Illah* 
_I like $19.50 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can any others vouch for this stuff?

 --Illah_

 

Hell yeah!
 Caig Deoxit and Progold are the best. 

 The only thing I would suggest other than what Oski suggested is to use the version that comes in the needle dispenser, or brush. 
 Sprays (unless you absolutely can't use any other form) are very wasteful, messy and you'll use it up too quick. 

This kit costs a bit more but will last you forever.


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## bhd812

music direct had a deal where you buy the Caig survival kit with the SSt treatment you save $20.00

 Thats when I got mine. then again I think it was still $80.00 for both..or $100.00


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## Illah

Cool - I ordered the $35 kit since it comes with all the swabs and cloths that I'd need to get in the signal hole of the RCA jack and it is probably a little cleaner than a spray. I'll try and give my system a good listen before and after to see if it actually does anything.

 --Illah


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## Emon

For the outside of the jack, some steel wool or a scotch bright pad. For the inside, take some fine sandpaper (at least 600 grit), roll it up, stick it in, twist a few times, blow out any dirt. Don't bother with gimmicky deoxidizing products.


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## Todd R

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Emon* 
_For the outside of the jack, some steel wool or a scotch bright pad. For the inside, take some fine sandpaper (at least 600 grit), roll it up, stick it in, twist a few times, blow out any dirt. Don't bother with gimmicky deoxidizing products._

 























 I guess Emon doesn't like to have any plating left on his jacks. 

 Gimmicky?
 Caig products are used by: 
 Allied Signal
 Bell & Howell
 Boeing 
 Diebold Inc. 
 Dolby Labs
 Federal Express
 Fuke Mfg. Co.
 General Electric
 Grumman Aerospace
 Hewlett-Packard
 Honeywell
 McIntosh Labs
 Motorola
 Nakamichi
 RCA
 Switchcraft
 Tektronix
 Texas Instruments
 Wayne-Dresser
 Xerox Corporation
 ...and many more

 (From the Caig brochure)


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## Illah

I actually thought about doing something like sandpaper or another abrasive, but then I was like, "You know, it might be a good idea to ask head-fi." 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not to mention once you were done sanding the jack you'd have dust from both the sandpaper and the jack material floating around in there! You'd have to end up cleaning it out anyway. Might as well just skip the extra step.

 --Illah


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## Illah

So I cleaned everything up and put ProGold on tonight:

 - DAC RCA Jacks
 - DAC Power Jack
 - Amp RCA Jacks
 - Amp Power Jack
 - Amp 1/4" Jack
 - My RCA-RCA cables
 - HD650 cable 1/4 plug and Senn plugs

 FYI I connect my DAC via toslink so that's why the coax jack isn't on my list, and I didn't bother cleaning the actual HD650 jack since the holes are SO small i don't see how I could get in there to wipe them off afterwards! Didn't want to risk it. I also didn't clean the power cords themselves because I'm lazy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Overall there seems to be a little more clarity, mostly in the highs, but it could all be in my head. Also keep in mind the jacks I cleaned are on vintage gear - if you're dealing with new, relatively clean stuff I don't think you'll hear any difference. With older gear it's definetely worth a shot though.

 All in all for $40 it's not a bad tweak, esp if you have old, tarnished/oxidized gear. If you have new stuff that's pretty well kept then obviously it doesn't hurt to take care of your stuff, but I wouldn't consider this a 'must have' in that type of situation.

 --Illah


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## AlanY

If anyone's interested in making a homebrew version of Deoxit, the active ingredient is 5% naptha (aka. lighter fluid). Mix that with rubbing alcohol, and apply with Q-tips.


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## Michael G.

If you are interested in the Walker stuff but don't wanna spend that much, try Mapleshade Silclear. The Mapleshade stuff costs about half as much as Walker. A little goes a long way. Very similar to the Walker idea - basically, you have silver particles suspended in dielectric grease. I use Silclear and can vouch for it's effectiveness. Slightly warmer yet cleaner sound. Plus you'll get protection against oxidation, etc... Mapleshade Records also sells Caig and lots of other neat tweaks. Combine your order like I did and save a little.


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## Todd R

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michael G.* 
_If you are interested in the Walker stuff but don't wanna spend that much, try Mapleshade Silclear. The Mapleshade stuff costs about half as much as Walker. A little goes a long way. Very similar to the Walker idea - basically, you have silver particles suspended in dielectric grease. I use Silclear and can vouch for it's effectiveness. Slightly warmer yet cleaner sound. Plus you'll get protection against oxidation, etc... Mapleshade Records also sells Caig and lots of other neat tweaks. Combine your order like I did and save a little._

 

I tried the Silclear stuff a couple months back and didn't care for it. 
 It seemed to improve the sound at first, but then a couple days later things just weren't sounding right. My system sounded muddy and confused. 

 Cleaning off the Silclear (quite a job BTW, you need alcohol and lots of scrubbing) and re-treating with the Caig ProGold restored the sound, and it remained sounding good. 

 Maybe the Walker stuff is better or different, but probably not (Pierre told me Lloyd stole the idea from him). 

 Since Mapleshade has 30 day money back period it wouldn't hurt to try it for yourself if you're curious. I like Mapleshade's products for the most part, just not this one.


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## Hirsch

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Todd R* 
_Maybe the Walker stuff is better or different, but probably not (Pierre told me Lloyd stole the idea from him)._

 

Radio Shack has a trace repair pen at $14.95 that lays down a layer of silver. This appears to be similar to the Walker SST and other products of that nature. Odds are that whoever Radio Shack got the idea from may be the actual originator of the "liquid silver" concept.


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## star882

A can of compressed air works good to blow out dust, and working the connectors back and forth a few times helps to scrape off the oxide buildup.
 I'm sure there are solvents available for cleaning, but in all my experience of working with electronics, I never had to use one.


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## imported_dom_

personaly i find metal polish on the contacts (mains cables) till you can see your face on the connectors followed by isopropyl (99.9%) to clean off any residue. 

 but for audio interconnects which all of mine are plated i use deoxit.


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## Michael G.

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Todd R* 
_I tried the Silclear stuff a couple months back and didn't care for it. 
 It seemed to improve the sound at first, but then a couple days later things just weren't sounding right. My system sounded muddy and confused. 

 Cleaning off the Silclear (quite a job BTW, you need alcohol and lots of scrubbing) and re-treating with the Caig ProGold restored the sound, and it remained sounding good. 

 Maybe the Walker stuff is better or different, but probably not (Pierre told me Lloyd stole the idea from him). 

 Since Mapleshade has 30 day money back period it wouldn't hurt to try it for yourself if you're curious. I like Mapleshade's products for the most part, just not this one._

 

I'm wondering if maybe you applied too much Silclear? I always try to apply the lightest coating possible. So far, I have not experienced any of the sonic degradations you speak of. But then again, everyone's system is different.


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## Todd R

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michael G.* 
_I'm wondering if maybe you applied too much Silclear? I always try to apply the lightest coating possible. So far, I have not experienced any of the sonic degradations you speak of. But then again, everyone's system is different. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I put it on as light as I possibly could.


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## djbnh

I swear by the Walker SST - I note I have the regular version, not the Super SST. I haven't noticed any backsliding in sound since I began using SST 1+ years ago. Also, please follow Mr. Walker's application directions carefully. I was originally hesitant about the price, but since a _tiny_ bit goes such a long way, I've been able to give some of it away and still have a huge stash left. I note I use plastic wrap to cover the bottle before capping it.

 Also, I like using Caig Deoxit for parts that haven't seen any cleaning for some time. (I used it extensively in reconditioning my dad's Fisher 800-B receiver, and it worked like a charm. Note there are different versions of Deoxit, just pick the application/applicator type that works best for your use.) So, for cruddy stuff, first Deoxit then Walker SST; if the stuff is pretty good, then I first use Caig's ProGold and then the Walker SST. (Re: ProGold, from the Caig site:  Quote:


 Recommended for critical applications where only slight cleaning action is necessary. If the surface looks clean, applying DeoxIT first is usually not necessary. DeoxIT GOLD is designed to dissolve small amounts of oxidation...NOTE: DeoxIT GOLD is the new name for ProGold. In 2006 the ProGold name will change to DeoxIT GOLD. Part numbers remain the same. 
 

FYI - one of the slickest applications for Walker SST is on your phono cartridge's pins. Please remember there's not a lot of room to work there, so be careful. However, I was amply rewarded for treating my cartridge pins! Also kicks a@@ on tube pins - really brings out a lot of detail in my JD-100 with its Sylvania Gold Label JHS 5751WA tmbs.


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## hansel_ng

has anyone tried contact cleaner? would it work well?


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## bhd812

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *djbnh* 
_I swear by the Walker SST - I note I have the regular version, not the Super SST. I haven't noticed any backsliding in sound since I began using SST 1+ years ago. Also, please follow Mr. Walker's application directions carefully. I was originally hesitant about the price, but since a tiny bit goes such a long way, I've been able to give some of it away and still have a huge stash left. I note I use plastic wrap to cover the bottle before capping it.

 Also, I like using Caig Deoxit for parts that haven't seen any cleaning for some time. (I used it extensively in reconditioning my dad's Fisher 800-B receiver, and it worked like a charm. Note there are different versions of Deoxit, just pick the application/applicator type that works best for your use.) So, for cruddy stuff, first Deoxit then Walker SST; if the stuff is pretty good, then I first use Caig's ProGold and then the Walker SST. (Re: ProGold, from the Caig site: 

 FYI - one of the slickest applications for Walker SST is on your phono cartridge's pins. Please remember there's not a lot of room to work there, so be careful. However, I was amply rewarded for treating my cartridge pins! Also kicks a@@ on tube pins - really brings out a lot of detail in my JD-100 with its Sylvania Gold Label JHS 5751WA tmbs._

 


 I believe your the gentlemen who got me on to it...

 thanx


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## dcguy73

Wow, I've had this stuff forever for cleaning RCA jacks and such...but for some reason, it never occurred to me to use it on the Maha 9-volt battery terminals, which have become corroded and cruddy over time. After scrubbing them with Kontak and then applying DeoxIT, the Mahas are charging again and the grunginess that I was hearing when I used them to power my RSA SR-71 is gone! They just needed a little push to help them come back to life.


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## Illah

Yeah this stuff is amazing. I had a bit of an 'oops!' with AC power that left some connectors heavily blackened after being zapped. I thought I'd have to junk them but after a little elbow grease and deoxit they amazingly came back! I was *really* surprised it could clean that off.

 --Illah


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## Old Pa

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Illah* 
_I like $19.50 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can any others vouch for this stuff?_

 

We've discussed the CAIG products at length in past threads. As I understand it DeOxit has greater cleaning power and is specifically for heavier corrosion and non-precious metal contact surfaces. ProGold has less cleaning power and more conditioning for precious metal contact surfaces. It's not just getting rid of corrosion and conditioning the metal surfaces for a good mechanical contact, but also the elimination of "micro-arc-ing" that subtly degrades audio reproduction performance. Basically, a good electromechanical contact is an airtight one, so using hospital grade outlets that grip the plug prongs through RCA and binding post connectors that can be tightened all are part of the clean and condition routine.


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## classicalguy

I have an amp with steel rca jacks. The cables do not hold tightly - I have to play with the cable or the sound in one speaker goes out. Will this cleaning stuff make the cable to jack connection more reliable? I don't notice any crud built up on the jacks, but they are not shiny. Thanks.


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## Michael G.

To "classicalguy": Your RCA jack(s) and/or your cable ends are probably slightly worn and/or out of spec. Conductivity enhancers might help, but the real solution would probably be to buy a new set of interconnects with tighter fitting connectors. While definitely not the creme-de-la-creme of cables, the $10 Radio Shack Gold interconnects are known for having notoriously tight-fitting RCA connectors - so much so that some people complain about them fitting too tightly. But, in your case they might fill the bill perfectly. For a more "upscale" cable, I'd recommend the Mapleshade Audio interconnects which have heavy duty adjustable connectors that you can screw down to get a tight fitting connection on just about any RCA jack.


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## classicalguy

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Michael G.* 
_To "classicalguy": Your RCA jack(s) and/or your cable ends are probably slightly worn and/or out of spec. Conductivity enhancers might help, but the real solution would probably be to buy a new set of interconnects with tighter fitting connectors._

 

No, cables are new. Jacks are old. The best solution would probably be to solder on some new replacement jacks. Only problem - I don't know how to solder!


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## djbnh

classicalguy - Just an idea - You can always use RCAs with male-end locking WBT terminations (Groneberg and other ICs use the WBTs). Will save you from replacing the female RCAs/soldering/etc. Yeah, I know your ICs are new...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Best of luck with your decision making.


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## drarthurwells

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *AlanY* 
_If anyone's interested in making a homebrew version of Deoxit, the active ingredient is 5% naptha (aka. lighter fluid). Mix that with rubbing alcohol, and apply with Q-tips._

 

Art: Thanks.

 Always wondered about that.


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## Alwayswantmore

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Todd R* 
_Hell yeah!
 Caig Deoxit and Progold are the best. 

 The only thing I would suggest other than what Oski suggested is to use the version that comes in the needle dispenser, or brush. 
 Sprays (unless you absolutely can't use any other form) are very wasteful, messy and you'll use it up too quick. 

This kit costs a bit more but will last you forever._

 

Todd, thanks for the tip. Just ordered the package you recommended.


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## mysticaldodo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hansel_ng* 
_has anyone tried contact cleaner? would it work well?_

 

I'm curious about this too. I've had dealers who use some Phillip contacts cleaner to clean their RCAs. On what equipment I have no idea though.


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## henryr

Hi,
  I have been searching for a homemade rca cleaning formula and have been thinking of using 99% isopropyl for cleaning and finishing with a pure silicone dielectric to act as a conductive lubricant. However yours seems interesting and low cost. Does Deoxit list ingredients on there products? Are there any risks in using naptha?
  Thanks,
  Henry Rancourt


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## JRG1990

I use Blue Horizon Clean-It  , http://www.bluehorizonideas.com/cleanit.html , it does the job well contacts come up like new.


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## henryr

Hi,
  I have been looking for a home brew and yours is interesting. Does deoxit list its ingredients anywhere? I had been thinking of using 91% isopropyl to clean and a pure silicone dielectric as a lubricant. Are there any risks using naptha?
  Thanks,
  Henry Rancourt


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