# Melodious MX-U8 USB Interface 8 Core XMOS chip



## abartels

Hi all,
  
 I think this great USB interface deserves a seperate thread.
  
  
 Just post all your questions, experiences, comparissons, modifications and tips & tricks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 We had a long way to go, started at Gustard U12 USB Interface 8 Core XMOS chip thread were you can read the beginnings,,,,,
  
  
 Cheers to all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


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## ginetto61

Hi Alex
 and here it is  for the people who don't know it  
  

  
 (in this way i get the alert of new posts) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 bye gino


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## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex
> and here it is  for the people who don't know it
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Gino,
  
 That's a good start 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I will order 2 R-Core transformers with copper shield for my MX-U8, one for the device itself, and one to feed the XO's.
  
 Didn't anybody did any mods on their MX-U8??
  
 Regards,
 Alex


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## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hi Gino,
> That's a good start
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex, i think that the idea is very sane.  Still i would prefer _*to place a panel mount DC socket *_to bypass the internal transformer and reach the big caps after the diodes bridge, leaving anything else untouched.
 I have at hand at least 2 very low noise linear power supply, lab grade.  In this way i could provide very clean DC and the regulator on board would act as a second regulation stage.
 These power supplies have around 1mV of residual ripple.   I know that this would mean to add another box ... but this unit is really key in the chain. It can make or break the sound.
 And the added benefit would be to add the working transformer out of the box ... completely isolated ... no vibes ... no EMI.
 I mean a socket like this one ...
  
http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/images/R0487842-01.jpg
  
 Thanks again to keep this thread alive and kicking 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 have a nice weekend
 gino


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## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex, i think that the idea is very sane.  Still i would prefer _*to place a panel mount DC socket *_to bypass the internal transformer and reach the big caps after the diodes bridge, leaving anything else untouched.
> I have at hand at least 2 very low noise linear power supply, lab grade.  In this way i could provide very clean DC and the regulator on board would act as a second regulation stage.
> These power supplies have around 1mV of residual ripple.   I know that this would mean to add another box ... but this unit is really key in the chain. It can make or break the sound.
> And the added benefit would be to add the working transformer out of the box ... completely isolated ... no vibes ... no EMI.
> ...


 
  
 Hi Gino,
  
 I still think my solution will sound much better. I'll explain why.
  
 The influences of vibration of transformer and RFI/EMI will be less important than NOISE, and NOISE is NOT the same as RIPPLE.
 Try finding what kind of regulators your lab supplies use, THEN you can see how much noise they produce.
  
 I suppose they have AT LEAST between 40uV and 100uV (uV is micro volt, mV is millivolt) noise.
  
 I am talking about 0.1 micro volt (uV) noise, feeding the XO's DIRECTLY, so NO ADP150 inbetween, which btw has 9uV noise, and NO LT1963, which btw has 40uV noise.
  
 So, out of the box the (audio)crystals psu feed has 49uV noise, in my case it will have 0.8uV noise.
  
  
  
 I wouldn't wonder if your solution has a total noise figure of more than hundreds of uVolts, which will degrade SQ in a huge way.
  
 R-Core's will do the job, maybe mounted on rubber sheet, and EMI/RFI shield between them and the rest of the unit.
  
  
 Just my 5 cents,,,,
  
  
  
 Keep up the modding 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Alex


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## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *abartels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> Hi Gino,
> I still think my solution will sound much better. I'll explain why.
> The influences of vibration of transformer and RFI/EMI will be less important than NOISE, and NOISE is NOT the same as RIPPLE.
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex and ok ... that is really low 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 My ps is a Mascot 719 power Supply
  
http://www.komteh.hr/download/radio/mascot/acdc/719.pdf
  
 Probably you have said that and i missed it ... sorry  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  *but what regulators are you going to use in order to reach almost zero noise ?*
 I need to keep mods basic ... i am not that clever at DIY.
 Thanks again,  gino


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## abartels

uote:


ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex and ok ... that is really low
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Gino,
  
 It's this one, it's a double version and needs 2 seperate 6~8 Volts input from transformer (transformer with 2x6V should do the trick)
  
 http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/73-08uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-33v5v-1ax2.html
  

 It's a kit, all the SMD components are soldered, but the Through-hole components need to be soldered by yourself.
  
 In addition you need to exchange the Panasonic FC 5600uF-25V to the ones i described before:
 I advise replacing them with Nichicon HW series 4700uF-25V ( UHW1E470MHD ) with a hight of 31,5mm
  
 When starting modding I will do it in a step-by-step manner including pics.
  
 Cheers and have a nice weekend! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Alex


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## ginetto61

Hi and very impressive noise figures indeed.
 But do you think that also with my minimal mod the noise should be lower or not ?
 I think that the Mascot provide also a better mains noise filtering.
 Anyway i will follow your project for sure.  Clearly this very good unit can be improved.
 Thanks again,  gino


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## abartels

Hi Guys,
  
 I found this interesting site, they have the *WORLDS FIRST HIGH-SPEED USB ISOLATOR*
  
 http://intona.eu/en/products
  
 Not cheap, but maybe a very nice add-on for us! 
  
  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Alex


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## kiertijai

I am interested in this Melodious .  It has DSD256.
 However DSD has to use I2S transmission to another DAC?
 My DAC does not have I2S input but does have coaxial, optical, AES
 Is there any adapter for this I2S to coaxial?  anything simple?


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## MINORISUKE

kiertijai said:


> I am interested in this Melodious .  It has DSD256.
> However DSD has to use I2S transmission to another DAC?
> My DAC does not have I2S input but does have coaxial, optical, AES
> Is there any adapter for this I2S to coaxial?  anything simple?


 

 Before discussiong "I2S to coax", I have to say that there is a channel mix (not swap) in DSD playback.  Melodious has not given me the test result that it did not happen for other units.  Therefore, I cannot recommend this unit for DSD playback until Melodious confirms nothing is wrong.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/1395#post_11563853
  
 Does your DAC accept DSD (DoP) through coax/optical S/PDIF?  Not many DACs support this feature.  Even so, I know no DAC supporting DSD256 in DoP via S/PDIF, for 705.6MHz PCM must be handled, which S/PDIF does not support anyway.
 I think you have to design a circuit and logic including DoP encoding by yourself, as I do not see any market demand for such an adapter.
 DSD output from RJ45 (I2S marked output) of MX-U8 is native.  It has to be encoded into DoP for such purposes.
  
 I have read "DSD output through I2S" is a wrong expression, based on the definition of I2S.  "I2S and DSD native output" would be correct.
 (DSD is a method of digitisation like PCM, whereas I2S is a method of interface within PCM equipment.)


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## ginetto61

Hi i would like* to read some listening impressions *about this unit with info about the source (pc) and the dac used.
  
 I have been listening the Melodious with a desktop win 7 64 bit pc > belden usb cable too long i guess (3 meter) > Melodious > AES Canare cable (good and cheap) > Apogee Rosetta 200 dac > Sac headphone amp > AKG k701
 and the sound is quite good.  Actually the best i have heard from my pc so far.
  
*In general i am very interested about what you are using with it*.  This device could very well become the corner stone in my system.
 Even in stock form 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ....  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Thanks and regards,  gino


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## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *abartels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> Hi Gino,
> 
> It's this one, it's a double version and needs 2 seperate 6~8 Volts input from transformer (transformer with 2x6V should do the trick)
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex ! i have _*one question about the original power supply schematic/design*_.
  
 Is there just one regulator for all the circuit ?
 because i see two diode bridges for what looks like a dual voltage power supply.  So i would expect two regulators, one per each rail.
 If not i do not understand the two bridges.
  
 I will peep inside soon but if you already know this thing i would be very thankful.
 Bye,  gino


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## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex ! i have _*one question about the original power supply schematic/design*_.
> 
> Is there just one regulator for all the circuit ?
> because i see two diode bridges for what looks like a dual voltage power supply.  So i would expect two regulators, one per each rail.
> ...


 
  
 Hi Gino, I suppose it's something like the underneath picture:
  

  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


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## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hi Gino, I suppose it's something like the underneath picture:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex, thank you very much indeed for the very helpful advice.
 So the ps is single voltage.  And just one regulator.  Very good !
*Still i see 4 big blue caps *





 i guess the 2200uF parts ... while in you schematic i see just two.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
*However for me the very good news is that there is only a single regulator. This simplifies things hugely. *
  
 I am sure your project is very good indeed, but sadly too challenging for me.
 I would be more than satisfied just by increasing the mains HF noise filtering (with a filter or using a different transformer type) and adding another regulation stage upstream the on-board regulator.
 Clearly i will not be able to reach your impressive noise figures ... really outstanding.
 But my skills are limited and the risk to damage everything is around the corner.
 To end i am extremely optimistic about the actual performances that can be obtained by this unit.
*Even as stock the sound out of the AES connection is very very nice.  Very musical. I like it very much indeed*. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 As soon as i will be free i will peep inside and maybe take some pics.
 Thanks a lot again.
 Have a nice day !
 gino


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## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex, thank you very much indeed for the very helpful advice.
> So the ps is single voltage.  And just one regulator.  Very good !
> *Still i see 4 big blue caps *
> 
> ...


 
  
 Schematics is just to explain how 8 diodes are used in psu MX-U8. I didn't look at the caps.
  
 There's only one main regulator, and 8 or more ADP150 regulators after the main regulator.
  
  
 The unit indeed sounds very good in stock version, but not as good as a "fully" modified U12.
 I still have to modify my XM-U8, within a few weeks I will start that project.
  
  
 To be continued,,,,
  
 Alex


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## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Schematics is just to explain how 8 diodes are used in psu MX-U8. I didn't look at the caps.
> *There's only one main regulator*, and 8 or more ADP150 regulators after the main regulator.


 
  
 Hi Alex ! yes ... this is indeed what i wanted to know.
 In my situation i would, of course, leave everything untouched from this main regulators downwards ... also because i understand it is already working good.
 However i do not understand the solution of two diode bridges but this fact of the single main regulator gives me some chance.
 With a dual power supply everything would have been so much more tricky.
  


> *The unit indeed sounds very good in stock version, but not as good as a "fully" modified U12. *


 
  
 this is also very important for me to know.   But if the XM-U8 even stock sounds very good i cannot imagine how wonderful will be modded ... very very good.  A miracle of converter.
 And a very important element of the chain in my case for that i have decided to use old dacs ...
  


> I still have to modify my XM-U8, within a few weeks I will start that project.
> To be continued,,,,
> Alex


 
  
 I will follow your projects with the greatest interest. I guess you will replace the main regulator in the XM-U8 with the best one.
 Anyway i will try to do something simple on mine ... hoping not to damage it in the process
 Thanks a lot again, gino


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## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex ! yes ... this is indeed what i wanted to know.
> In my situation i would, of course, leave everything untouched from this main regulators downwards ... also because i understand it is already working good.
> However i do not understand the solution of two diode bridges but this fact of the single main regulator gives me some chance.
> With a dual power supply everything would have been so much more tricky.
> ...


 
  
 Hi Gino,
  
 No, I won't replace the main regulator since I'm not going to use the mainpower for audio XO's. Main psu is sufficient for XMOS, don't think it will make a big step in SQ when changing
 psu for XMOS and XMOS-XO.
  
 I will fully isolate the audio XO's and feed them with very clean power, that's the main thing I will do, and I will exchange Noratel troidal with R-Core.
 Also I will have to remove the 230V IEC320 inlet and have to create one myself because the 2x R-Core will be too big to fit in when IEC320 is still in place, so that will be the biggest challenge for me.
  
 Regards,
 Alex


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## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *abartels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> Hi Gino,
> No, I won't replace the main regulator since I'm not going to use the mainpower for audio XO's.
> Main psu is sufficient for XMOS, don't think it will make a big step in SQ when changing  psu for XMOS and XMOS-XO.
> ...


 
  
 Thanks again Alex.
 Now i have understood better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Sorry but i am a little slow to catch things 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 So you mean that the most delicate circuit is the clock one ... good.  I will keep this in mind.
 I remember to have read of a guy using batteries only for this circuits with huge benefit on a TOTL Sony sacd player, i think it was the SCD-1 ? the very big one ...
 But i am sure that a super-regulated ps could do equally well, if not better.
 A really nice thing with the UM-X8 is that it comes with an already isolated usb port, if i understand well. A problem less for me.
 Thanks a lot again,  gino


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## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Thanks again Alex.
> Now i have understood better
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Gino,
  
 About the isolated USB, it's only isolated from power and ground, so NOT the signal itself. The tanley uses full isolated usb i think, but i will not buy that one for the simple fact that
 i dont want to have any wires at the front of my equipment, and Tanley has USB-input on front of device, very very ugly,,,,,
  
 The next project, after modding the MX-U8 will be a full diy ddc, with the components as described at Gustard U12 thread.
  
 QUOTE:
  
 This one is even isolated (NZ2520SD's for audio on isolated side,,,) - this means you can feed them with seperate powersupply!
  
http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/69-isolated-xmos-dsd-dxd-384khz-high-quality-usb-to-i2sdsd-pcb-with-ultralow-noise-regulator.html
  

  
  
  
 HDMI - print:
  
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.VKHlno&id=41715842497
  

  
  
  
  
 The regulator (it's double version, one for xmos pcb, one for NDK NZ2520SD's)
  
http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/73-08uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-33v5v-1ax2.html
  

  
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


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## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hi Gino,
> About the isolated USB, it's only isolated from power and ground, so NOT the signal itself.


 
  
 Hi Alex and thanks a lot for the very interesting advice
 I would say better than nothing.  I just want to get rid of these usb power supplies i am using with not isolated usb dacs/converters that are not very handy at all. 
  


> The tanley uses full isolated usb i think, but i will not buy that one for the simple fact that i dont want to have any wires at the front of my equipment, and Tanley has USB-input on front of device, very very ugly,,,,,


 
  
*I understand that the Tanley is clearly a better designed unit*. If the problem is only the usb input on the front i think you could move it to the back easily.  I agree that the port on the front is a strange design choice indeed.
 But it happens ... some units have some strange placement of connectors. Great unit the Tanley, even if it is quite difficult to find info on the device.  But it seems very well designed and realized. 
  


> The next project, after modding the MX-U8 will be a full diy ddc, with the components as described at Gustard U12 thread.


 
  
 this other project you propose i am afraid is too difficult for my limited skills 
  
_*My only hope, in the end, is just to improve a little the Melodious that i like already very much in stock form*_
  
 possibly without damaging it
 But i am so sure about its quality that in that case i would buy another one
 What i will do soon is to take out the pcb from the case and try with a different power solution leaving anything untouched on the pcb.  
 I will put the board on a woodden board for testing
 If the sound will be ok i will modify the original box
 I am pretty sure* i will end with a two boxes solution (i.e. power supply + converter) connected with a DC umbilical *
 Just this ... i am just looking for a little less noise and a little more mains filtering
 and the external new power supply will be crucial for this
 i think this could be done quite easily
 Thanks a lot again,  gino
  
 P.S.  but your experience suggests me that in the end they are all basically very good units and some more attention to their power supplies pays a lot
 This is very comforting and motivating for doing something.


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## blasjw

abartels said:


> Hi Gino,
> 
> It's this one, it's a double version and needs 2 seperate 6~8 Volts input from transformer (transformer with 2x6V should do the trick)
> 
> ...


 

 How about these bad boys?  I was thinking about using a couple of these as part of the power supply portion of the extensive mod. I'm planning for my Adcom GDA-600 which will, of course, be fed by an MX-U8.  Looks like the noise on these reg's is < 65 nV in other words < .065 uV:
 http://www.partsconnexion.com/burson/regulator.html


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## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex and thanks a lot for the very interesting advice
> I would say better than nothing.  I just want to get rid of these usb power supplies i am using with not isolated usb dacs/converters that are not very handy at all.
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Power supplies always are very important in audio equipment, and most of the time manufacturers don't pay enough attention to build a good base - a good buffered - filtered - noisless psu.
 But, that leaves us with the possibility to mod


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## abartels

blasjw said:


> How about these bad boys?  I was thinking about using a couple of these as part of the power supply portion of the extensive mod. I'm planning for my Adcom GDA-600 which will, of course, be fed by an MX-U8.  Looks like the noise on these reg's is < 65 nV in other words < .065 uV:
> http://www.partsconnexion.com/burson/regulator.html


 
  
 I know the Burson's, the Dexa's, the Belleson's, the Super Teddy's, and so on,,,,
  
 Not saying they aren't any good, depending on the application where you want to use them, it's just that there are very expensive regulators which perform on paper very well,
 but if one get measured in real life situation, then they often are less promising,,,,,,
  
 The 0.8uV psu from DIYINHK is not only a regulator, it's a complete psu which only needs a 6 to 8 volts transformer.
 That makes things a lot easier to accomplish.
  
 The LT3042 has not only very good noise figures, it DOES indeed regulate, which we cant say for all the mentioned regulators above.
 And, last but not least, the DIYINHK psu does also filter emi/rfi, which is always a welcome feature in audio equipment.
  
 You are very right that one could build a better psu than the DIYINHK one, but it's much more complex than you think, and, we don't have that much of room available in our MX-U8 to accomplish that task,,,,,
  
  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


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## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Power supplies always are very important in audio equipment, and most of the time manufacturers don't pay enough attention to build a good base - a good buffered - filtered - noisless psu.
> But, that leaves us with the possibility to mod


 
  
 Yes !  sadly i am in a bad moment at work (under pressure) but *my plan is to look asap at the Melodious pcb to understand if just a single DC power supply of around 12VDC could power the all unit*.
 In that case i will try to solder a two wires DC cable and place a DC socket on the back of the unit.
 This arrangement is very common in many high end units like preamps for instance, where the power supply is actually in a separate box and the preamp box is fed through an umibilica cord.
 If the current draw is constant, like a believe is the case of the Melodious, this could work just fine keeping the umbilical as short as possible of course.
 Using and externale DC power supply will free hands completely ... there will be no more the constraint of the available space inside the Melodious.
  
*I think that the Melodious really deserves a very high quality power supply.  *
*This would elevate its performance in a spectacular way to a high end status.*
*Simply because it is already very good with its "normal" stock power supply.*
  
 There are a huge number of possible solution for an external high quality DC power supply even off-the-shelf (it is just a matter of price).
 And also a huge number of kits are available.
*Even high quality SMPSs could be a very valid option*.   I have seen very high quality master clock generators, like the Apogee Big Ben, having a SMPS.
 This means to me that when they are very well designed and built can have extremely good noise figures.
*A clock generator is a very challenging unit power supply wise i guess*.    *The power supply must be quite perfect in terms of stability, extremely low noise in the HF/RF bands.  Unfortunately it is also very expensive if not i would like to try one.  Very curious to listen.  *
  
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b344/simcityplan/inside%20post/apogee/apogee5.jpg
  
 sorry ... i cannot post the pic directly from here.
 The above mentioned mod would be also completely reversible.  The added DC input will be in parallel with the existing power supply.
 I am extremely optimistic about this very simple mod.
 Thanks a lot again.  Gino


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## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Yes !  sadly i am in a bad moment at work (under pressure) but *my plan is to look asap at the Melodious pcb to understand if just a single DC power supply of around 12VDC could power the all unit*.
> In that case i will try to solder a two wires DC cable and place a DC socket on the back of the unit.
> This arrangement is very common in many high end units like preamps for instance, where the power supply is actually in a separate box and the preamp box is fed through an umibilica cord.
> If the current draw is constant, like a believe is the case of the Melodious, this could work just fine keeping the umbilical as short as possible of course.
> ...


 
  
 Well designed smps can be good, but not preferable, external psu can be good, but watch out for emi/rfi, but, to be honest, not going to talk about all those options, i refuse to implement smps in audio,
 and external psu, for U12 or MX-U8 is NOT my cup of thee.
  
 And if you decide to use external psu, FIRST measure voltage on big caps, so you know what kind of voltage you need to feed the caps.
 And, if external psu connected to caps, be sure to disconnect transformer.
  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Alex


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## motberg

Following on what Alex mentioned concerning external PS at this level equipment... I was just checking the Audio-GD DI-2014 description and it is my impression that they consider a well done internal PS an advantage over (their previous model DDC) the DI-V3, which used an external PS... even taking into account when using the Audio-GD matching external PS, they had concerns about the cable connection..


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## ginetto61

motberg said:


> Following on what Alex mentioned concerning external PS at this level equipment... I was just checking the Audio-GD DI-2014 description and it is my impression that they consider a well done internal PS an advantage over (their previous model DDC) the DI-V3, which used an external PS... even taking into account when using the Audio-GD matching external PS, they had concerns about the cable connection..


 
  
 I do not know.  I can only notice that some of the best TOTL solid state line stages around (Pass Labs, Boulder, ML, Rowland, etc.) have/had an independent power supply.
 These are products where cost is a non object.
 The cable connection can be done of extremely high quality with golden contacts and so on.
 Instead you will have no vibrations induced noise, no EMI, and you will have much more room to play than inside a single box ...
  
 Speaking more technically in building a good power supply i would start from the beginning, the transformer, and not from the end, the regulators.
*Not all transformers are made equal. *Just an example ... you say " They had concern about the cable connection ".   A good umbilical (i.e. with low resistance and inductance) can be very easily done (i.e. a good AWG of quality copper would be just fine with twisted conductors). This cable will be extremely low in resistance and inductance.  
  

  
 For instance i measured with a friend the secondary impedance in a Talema toroidal that looked very nice ... about 200 ohm at 60Hz !   do you know how many meters of connection cables this means ?
 Instead we measured also the impedance of the secondary on a much more humble EI more or less of the same VA .... 3 ohm.  Much better.
*Then there are the diodes* ... just see how poor they look the ones inside the Melodious.   Much better some Schottky diodes without spikes and so on. 
 Then there are mains filter and chokes ... before the transformer. They can cut away a lot of HF noise. 
 The power supply is very important. And a lot must be done before the regulators ... upstream. 
 Having the PS in a separate box gives much more room to play with it.   Much more flexibility.   You can end with and exceptional PS that will feed an already very well regulated DC to the regulators on the pcb.
 And a very good power supply would be also good with noise in the main.  So swapping power cord will be less impacting the overall performance. 
 Also PS capacitors have different performance. Also by-passing them can give additional benefits. 
 About the umbilical i have been advised to make* a DC umbilical *...  but i am not so sure because i see some units using AC umbilical
  

 but if you do not like it ok ... no problem of course.  And there is another box also that is true.
 Personally I like very much *the concept that keeps the transformer out of the box where circuits are.*
 For instance you can use the additional space to increase filtering or uF inside the box with circuits.
 Regards,  gino


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## ginetto61

Hello Guys !   please forget most of the silly things i have said.
  
*I am very willing to do something with the power supply of this unit.*
  
 I have a very basic question.
 The 2 secondaries of the transformer feed two independent diode bridges.  Does this mean that there are two separate supplies/regulators on the pcb feeding what ?
 In this case ... could i use only one new single high quality power supply and connect it to both the supplies ?
 or *it would be fundamental to keep the two circuits separated also at transformer level ? why ?*
 I understand that it would be even better as you have done to feed directly the strategic components, but i would like to avoid to mess too much with the pcb given my limited skills.
 the disaster is around the corner really in my case.
 In the weekend i will take some pics below the pcb hoping to understand better the power supply circuit ...
 but i guess you have already figured it out 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Thanks a lot indeed.
 Regards,  gino


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## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hello Guys !   please forget most of the silly things i have said.
> 
> *I am very willing to do something with the power supply of this unit.*
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Ginetto,
  
 You asked this question before (previous page of this thread,,,,), and I uploaded a schematic (which is from another device) to explain to you how Melodious configured psu.
 Again:
  

  
 You can see the two diode-bridges each fed by one seperate winding.
 As you can see there's only ONE positive signal, NOT TWO.
  
 So, there's only ONE MAIN regulator, LT1963, and several (8 or so) ADP150 regulators to create "separate" power stages.
  
 Obviously you really want to experiment with your lab psu, or another psu.
 The easiest way is, like i told you before, disconnect your tranny and solder +wire from your external psu to one of the 4 +legs of the big caps,
 and -wire from your external psu to one of the 4 -legs of the big caps.
  
 In that case you will feed the LT1963 with your external psu, and also take use of the local psu buffer caps (the 4 2200uF-25V BC's)
  
 To be 100% sure, just measure if all the -legs are connected to eachother, and if all the +legs are connected to eachother.
  
  
  
 Hope this clears up a few things.
  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hi Ginetto,
> You asked this question before (previous page of this thread,,,,), and I uploaded a schematic (which is from another device) to explain to you how Melodious configured psu.
> Again:
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex ! thank you sincerely again.  I told you i am slow to catch up ? i was wrong ... i am slower 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Thanks a lot for your patience and extremely precious help.
 But sorry ... do you mean that all the four big blue caps in the picture are in parallel ? with the same Voltage at their terminals ?  (around 7x1.4 = 10 V ?)  
 strange arrangement indeed. 
  

  


> So, there's only ONE MAIN regulator, LT1963, and several (8 or so) ADP150 regulators to create "separate" power stages.


 
 if i understand well all the caps are in parallel feeding the main regulator, and after this main other let's say secondary e local regulator are on the pcb ?
 I was completely wrong ... when i see two diode bridges i think of a dual power supply or two separate supply channels ... so also the bridges are in parallel ?
 strange design indeed.
  


> Obviously you really want to experiment with your lab psu, or another psu.


 





 yes .. that would be the idea.  Of course i could try a kit for a very low noise single supply but the lab psu could be enough as a first try.
  


> The easiest way is, like i told you before, disconnect your tranny and solder +wire from your external psu to one of the 4 +legs of the big caps,  and -wire from your external psu to one of the 4 -legs of the big caps.
> In that case you will feed the LT1963 with your external psu, and also take use of the local psu buffer caps (the 4 2200uF-25V BC's)
> To be 100% sure, just measure if all the -legs are connected to eachother, and if all the +legs are connected to eachother.
> Hope this clears up a few things.
> ...


 
  
 Thanks a lot again Alex !  yes now it is more clear.   
I did not catch that all 4 big caps were in parallel (in your schematic i saw just two of them).
 Now i understand that everything is in parallel, diode bridges and caps ... wov ... a lot of buffer uF for a single regulator indeed.
 Given that the secondary are 7V i guess that there will be about 10V (i.e. 7x1.4)  at caps terminals.  
 So i should provide 10 clean Volts to one of caps
 I have to take out the bridges maybe ? because one - leg of one caps seems connected to the + leg of another ?
 I see written on the pcb  after the transformer  " AC 6-10V " ... so i guess that i could increase to around 14 VDC max.    
 I have a desoldering gun and i could try to remove all the blue caps and see the traces below the caps
 Thanks a lot again.  Your advice has been fundamental.
 Kindest regards,  gino


----------



## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex ! thank you sincerely again.  I told you i am slow to catch up ? i was wrong ... i am slower
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 I just measured, just to be sure you won't do anything which you would regret in the end,,,,,,,,
  
 Voltage on caps is 12V in my case. All 4 caps are in parallel.
 Stay away from 14V, 10V DC is good.
  
 In my case Melodious changed transformer to better quality Noratel, but, they put in 15VA 2x9Volts, which is NOT as good as 15VA 2x6V or 2x7V,
 simply because of the fact that if VA stays the same, and voltage increases, amperage decreases, thus a higher resistance which is always worse.
  
 Just solder psu wires directly on one of the caps, and remove connector transformer.
  
 8-10V DC preferable (the higher you go, the hotter your LT1963 gets,,,), 12V DC max.
  
  
 Cheers,
  
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> I just measured, just to be sure you won't do anything which you would regret in the end,,,,,,,,


 
  
 Thank you Alex !
  


> Voltage on caps is 12V in my case. All 4 caps are in parallel.   Stay away from 14V, *10V DC is good.*
> In my case Melodious changed transformer to better quality Noratel, but, they put in 15VA 2x9Volts, which is NOT as good as 15VA 2x6V or 2x7V,
> simply because of the fact that if VA stays the same, and voltage increases, amperage decreases, thus a higher resistance which is always worse.
> Just solder psu wires directly on one of the caps, and remove connector transformer.
> ...


 
 Thanks a lot again.  Now i can proceed with more confidence. *I will not go over 10V then*. No more. Do not want to stress the regulator. 
 I think that in the end i will sacrifice one cap (desolder it) to use the holes to solder the wires. I have bought a desoldering pump so i have to use it now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I will leave the pcb on a wooden board and listen ... if the sound will be convincing i think i will replace the blue caps with something same diameter and taller.  Like Nichicon ... good parts i mean. 
 Increasing to 3300 uF the capacitance of each. There is space for taller caps. 25V type are quite compact.   
 I am curious.  The stock unit was already quite ok.   
 Thanks a lot again.  Regards, gino


----------



## abartels

I would NOT remove caps, just solder on the legs on the solderside, very easy, and wires from psu just run under pcb, no problem at all.
  
 About size caps:
  
 You have 30mm MAX in height.
  
  
  
 Now, lets be smart and choose the Nichicon FG caps which are the prefered version, just read the U12 thread, FG series are the prefered series, better than HW series.
  
 And, if we are REALLY smart, we use 16V caps instead of 25V caps! They are smaller in size, which means that in FG series you could mount 2200uF!!!
  
  
 In HW series you even could mount 5600uF, but I would try the FG series.
  
  
 I havent the slightest idea why Gustard and Melodious using 25V caps in their psu designs, since voltage never raises above 12V when using 9V Transformer.
 And, if using the preferable voltage (6-7 V~) you would stay nicely around 9Volts DC,
  
  
 Just my 2 cents,
  
 Regards,
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> I would NOT remove caps, just solder on the legs on the solderside, very easy, and wires from psu just run under pcb, no problem at all.
> About size caps:  You have 30mm MAX in height.
> Now, lets be smart and choose the *Nichicon FG caps which are the prefered version*, just read the U12 thread, FG series are the prefered series, better than HW series.
> And, if we are REALLY smart, *we use 16V caps instead of 25V caps! *They are smaller in size, which means that in FG series you could mount 2200uF!!!
> In HW series you even could mount 5600uF, but I would try the FG series.


 
  
 Thanks Alex !  *bought the FG 2200uF/16V now on ebay ! thanks ! *
 .. i hope they are not fake ... from my country .Italy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 this is the datasheet attached by the seller ...  http://www.tubes.it/nichicon_FG.pdf
 i will use the legs of one cap to solder the wires feeding the dc.  
  


> *I havent the slightest idea why Gustard and Melodious using 25V caps in their psu designs*, since voltage never raises above 12V when using 9V Transformer.
> And, if using the preferable voltage (6-7 V~) *you would stay nicely around 9Volts DC,*
> Just my 2 cents,
> Regards,
> Alex


 
 i think that they do not want have problems.  25V are more robust than 16V i think.   Like oversizing. 
 I will set 9VDC as you recommend.  
 Do you have any idea of the consumption of this unit ? more or less ?  1A ?
  
 now what about adding another regulation stage inside ... i mean providing let's say 15-16VDC with the regulated lab power supply doing the 1st cleaning job
 another regulation stage from 16 to 9VDC could give any additional benefit ?  
 in this way i would have 3 regulation stages.  
 Zero noise ?
 there is a lot of space free if i take out the transformer. 
  
*On the 3 quartzs there is a transparent adhesive tape *... do i have to leave it or i can remove it ? do the quartzs get got ? could the hot melt the tape ?
 I will post some pics of the pcb with the new caps as soon as they will arrive.
 Thanks again, gino


----------



## abartels

That are the good ones, 2200uF-16V 16x25mm


That much oversizing in voltage is useless, unless, and that disturbs me the most, they would use a 12V~ or even higher transformer in case they wouldn't had the proper version at hand, and, it's an awfully thought, but, if that's the case, wouldn't they also be willing to sacrifice in SQ and use other components (like smd parts) with the wrong values if they weren't at hand, so they could produce anyway? 

Maybe i'm wrong, but that's what often happens with cheap audio equipment from china. 

It's sad to say, but I had a few chinese diy dacs at hand which had versions with lots of different component values. Finally I got those working because of the presence of audio forums like head-fi. 



The yellow tape, you can remove it, don't think it will help to absorb vibrations. But, why would you want to remove it? 

1A at 230V?? Or??

Why would you regulate an extra time? Each regulation provides you with artifacts like noise, they just will add,,,,, like your lab psu,,,,,, 

Cheers, 

Alex


----------



## ginetto61

Quote:


abartels said:


> That are the good ones, 2200uF-16V 16x25mm


 
  
 Good morning Alex !
 thanks again for the very helpful suggestion.   Do you think that small value bypass film caps could be beneficial with the FGs ?
 they should clean up some HF noise, the origin of all problems with digital ?
  


> That much oversizing in voltage is useless, unless, and that disturbs me the most, they would use a 12V~ or even higher transformer in case they wouldn't had the proper version at hand,
> and, it's an awfully thought, but, if that's the case, wouldn't they also be willing to sacrifice in SQ and use other components (like smd parts) with the wrong values if they weren't at hand, so they could produce anyway?
> Maybe i'm wrong, but that's what often happens with cheap audio equipment from china.
> It's sad to say, but I had a few chinese diy dacs at hand which had versions with lots of different component values.
> Finally I got those working because of the presence of audio forums like head-fi.


 
  
 i said that because i have seen someting similar on some Mc Intosh amps. But PS caps in power amps are much more stressed, i think, that in this little unit.
 This units look to me successive generations of prototypes.  Many versions one after another.
 But if this chips need low voltage to work i also do not understand why go up to much with the output voltage in the transformer ... it does not make sense.
 Instead as also *cheap different type transformers are available *i would experiment with them ... like the Hammond type one.  Just a small shield can block there higher EMI emission compared to toroids.
  
http://sigma.octopart.com/37503537/image/Hammond-229C16.jpg
  
 as i said i see these transformers used in the spectacular products by Berkeley Audio .... this immediately makes them approved by me ... without even thinking.
  
*Anyway --- i dont even know which is the actual power consumption of this unit.*   If it draws 0.1 A max, for instance, maybe even batteries become an option ?
 The very nice thing with batteries is that there is no connection completely with the electrical grid.   This is very good.
 I understand that PS can be made with even lower noise than batteries ... but still batteries are something very intriguing in their concept.
  


> The yellow tape, you can remove it, don't think it will help to absorb vibrations. But, why would you want to remove it?


 
  
 Ok. No problem. I will leave it.  I was just worried of possible problems with heat that could melt it down. Now i understand it is a non issue at all.
  


> 1A at 230V?? Or??


 
  
 no. I wonder which is *the current draw of the pcb circuit at 10VDC *.... how many A in order to calculate the power consumption of the all circuit.
 I guess it is not that much. But how much ?
  


> Why would you regulate an extra time? Each regulation provides you with artifacts like noise, they just will add,,,,, like your lab psu,,,,,,
> Cheers,
> Alex


 
  
 Ok. I think i see your point.
*For instance i like much better the PS in the Tanly converter. Same transformer but i can spot a choke and caps on the mains input and those fantastic diodes you mentioned at the transformer output*.
 I am quite sure a similar PS could be extremely beneficial also with the Melodious.
 Is it difficult to do something similar ?
 That would really makes the Melodious pretty definitive.   At least in my situation.
 However *i am also very confident that the superior Nichicon FGs (thanks again for the very precious suggestion) will lower noise even more.*
*What about adding small value bypass film caps ? something like 0.1uF ?  and in case, which ones ?*
  
 Nice PS in the Tanly ... and it should not cost that much to built also ?
 Thanks a lot again Alex !
 Have a nice day !
 Regards,  gino
  
 P.S.  Alex ... i bought another transformer ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ... PCB mount ... *40VA/2x9V *(i did not find 7V ... there was one 2x6V but i thought it was too low V)
 So in the end i will change the toroid, keep the diode bridges (they look poor to me ... ) and replace the PS caps with the FGs and stop.
 The new x-former seems of the good type with primary and secondaries separated (this should avoid the need of chokes at the input)
 The FGs i am sure will be a decisive step-up. 
 Great brand Nichicon ... i read better than Panasonic.  Another good one seems to be Siemens.
 I will put some pictures of what comes out. I will have to drill some holes to fix the x-former to the chassis ... not big deal.


----------



## abartels

Hi Gino,
  
  
 It is always good to bypass psu caps with small caps, I use Rifa 0.1uF (MKP), they work very well.
  
 The Tanly has Cree diodes in psu, they are very good, probably they need bypassing cap 0.01uF.
 I ordered a bunch of them to test with.
  
 The Tanly also has a choke with caps in psu, thats definitely a positive thing to have!
  
 Only thing i would want to have is a transformer with earth-shield between the two secondary outputs,
 or, even better, two seperate transformers, but those wouln't fit in enclosure.
  
 I have no idea what the current draw is of the MX-U8, but I suppose it's less than 1A at 10V DC
  
  
 Regards,
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hi Gino,
> It is always good to bypass psu caps with small caps, I use Rifa 0.1uF (MKP), they work very well.


 
 Hi Alex, i am buying some to use.  I see many times this caps bypassing ... i guess it could be beneficial for HF ripple suppression.


> The Tanly has Cree diodes in psu, they are very good, probably they need bypassing cap 0.01uF.
> I ordered a bunch of them to test with.


 
  
 Do you know maybe if there are *integrated bridges *made with these special diodes ?
http://chinaimportexport.wikispaces.com/file/view/Bridge-Rectifiers-KBPC5A-QL-SQL-.jpg/33608079/Bridge-Rectifiers-KBPC5A-QL-SQL-.jpg
 (pic is only to explain what i am referring at)
 I would be willing to try them in place of the existing ones that look quite poor.


> The Tanly also has a choke with caps in psu, thats definitely a positive thing to have!  Only thing i would want to have is a transformer with earth-shield between the two secondary outputs,  or, even better, two seperate transformers, but those wouln't fit in enclosure.


 
 Yes. The Tanly usb looks more carefully designed even using the same identical transformer than the Melodious.
 This is the last i bought ... i have some idea on how to mount it to the chassis (i think i will have to lifet the lid ...it is quite tall ... and big ... and powerful.
  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180858536621?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=480098140751&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  
http://images.mcmanager.co.uk/images/1382537526985.jpg
  
 No datasheet attached.   But i guess it should have separation bwteen primary and secondaries ... my obsession.
 A very interesting interview to audio designer  John Curl  ...
  
http://www.parasound.com/pdfs/JCinterview.pdf


> Q: What can you tell us about the transformers? Are they very important?
> JC: Absolutely, but when we talk about transformers we have to separate  power amps and preamps. While they are not perfect, Toroidal transformers are the logical choice for power amplifiers because they are very efficient, they tend to have a fairly low hum field, and they’re readily available in large power ratings.
> For preamplifiers and other line-level components, the old type EI transformers or what’s called a D-core or split C- core transformer is actually better than a toroid. First of all, they tend to be more compact, and second, and perhaps more importantly, they have very low capacitance between the windings.
> This can be a problem when Toroids are used in low signal level applications; the windings are on top of each other so they talk to each other. It used to not be so bad but today the AC power is so dirty.


 


> I have no idea what the current draw is of the MX-U8, but I suppose it's less than 1A at 10V DC
> Regards,
> Alex


 
  
 Ok .. no problem.  The one i bought now it is a 40VA thing ... a beast for this application.
 If only i could find some integrated bridge made with those fantastic diodes you mention ... that would be very nice.
 I guess the project will take me two weeks to receive parts.
 I am optimistic at the point that i could even buy a very nice and bigger case to put everything in.
 This will be my corner stone of my audio systems for the years to come ... i am sure of this.
 Thanks again for you very kind and exceptionally valuable support.
 Kind regards,  gino


----------



## abartels

Hi Gino,
  
 There are no rectifier-bridges with those Cree diodes, you have to build them yourself, and no, it is not an easy job to accomplish
 in XM-U8 because there's not enough room to do so,,, But I will try at least,,,,
  
 I still prefer R-Core transformers, and off course, the copper shielded ones with electrostatic shield between primary and secondary,
 they aren't that expensive nowadays, but be aware, there are many cheap versions which are not of high quality.
  
 Cheers,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *abartels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> Hi Gino,
> There are no rectifier-bridges with those Cree diodes, you have to build them yourself, and no, it is not an easy job to accomplish in XM-U8 because there's not enough room to do so,,, But I will try at least,,,,


 
 Hi and thanks and i see.  *Neither bridges with Schottky diodes ?* i understand they are a step-up from normal diodes as well.
 These stock ones are miserable ... really ...  Bought these to try out ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100Pcs-1N5819-Low-Drop-Power-Schottky-Rectifier-Diode-25A-40V-Package-DO-41-/391070733361?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b0da1d431
  
 to be arranged this way i understand ...
  
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vzZlhdJqiN8/Tx0QvrJPvoI/AAAAAAAAAw8/385bvTfrwcc/s1600/BRIDGE.png
  
 i even remember to have read that using single diodes to make the bridges is better than to use integrated one (more handy by the way)
  
*maybe just one bridge would be more than enough instead of two*. I do not like parallel in general.  I think just using one secondary of the transformer and one bridge made out of these diodes should be enough ( maybe i could even use just two caps ... i do not want to exaggerate with PS).  The circuit total consumption will be less than 10VA i guess.  My new x-former will have 20VA per secondary.
 I do not know what to do with the secondary not used ... can i leave it open ? no damage to the transformer ?


> *I still prefer R-Core transformers*, and off course, the copper shielded ones with electrostatic shield between primary and secondary, they aren't that expensive nowadays, but be aware, there are many cheap versions which are not of high quality.
> Cheers,
> Alex


 
 Yes.  I saw them used in very high level dacs and they are very nice.  But as you say poor quality ones are everywhere ... sometimes i wonder how items can be so cheap.
 There must be something poor in their execution.  Quality always comes at a price ... an hard lesson i have learnt.
 Thanks a lot again,  gino


----------



## abartels

Hi Gino,
  
 If you really want to start modding your psu section, do it the right way the first time.
 Pcb's don't like it when components will be removed several times,,,,,
  
 We are talking about a multilayer, which means there are most likely through hole metallisation within every whole for through hole components.
 If desoldering too hot, or too long, it's most likely you will remove the through hole metallisation which will end in one or more "defective" layers. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 So, please be careful. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I would suggest you try the best diodes available, those ones used in Tanly, http://www.digikey.nl/product-detail/en/0/C3D02060F-ND
 They are a little bigger, so you have to work harder to get them in 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 It's up to you if you want to replace only one bridge rectifier, but if I were you I would do it the right way and leave original schematics intact.
 You don't like parallel in general??? What are you talking about? I can assure you Melodious, and Gustard, and many others use this concept
 because it has some advantages.
  
 And, removing caps, and using a lower capacitance, I wouldn't prefer that either.
  
  
 Note:
  
 Keep it as original as possible, replace components with better ones, and leave the "altering schematics" to the people who studied electronics.
 Off course you can do it the way you think it's best, but to be honest, I don't think you should.
  
 So, using both secondary outputs of your transformer, replacing both rectifier bridges, replacing 4 caps, that should do the trick.
 Maybe shield transformer with copper shield for best results.
  
 Regards,
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hi Gino,
> If you really want to start modding your psu section, do it the right way the first time.
> Pcb's don't like it when components will be removed several times,,,,,
> We are talking about a multilayer, which means there are most likely through hole metallisation within every whole for through hole components.
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex ! thanks again for the advice .. i have already noticed this thing.  I have to be careful indeed. i could ruin very easily the tiny contacts.
 I have this desoldering pump but it has a chinese plug ... and i do not have an adapter to schuko.  I have still to change the plug ... this weekend.


> I would suggest you try the best diodes available, those ones used in Tanly, http://www.digikey.nl/product-detail/en/0/C3D02060F-ND
> They are a little bigger, so you have to work harder to get them in


 
*I trust you completely that these are indeed the very best parts for this application but it is much more tricky to work with them*
 With the other i have just to twist their legs and it is done.  And i am more than sure that they are much better than the stock ones.  Much better indeed.
 Not like yours i agree .. .but i just need a bit of improvement.
  


> It's up to you if you want to replace only one bridge rectifier, but if I were you I would do it the right way and leave original schematics intact.
> You don't like parallel in general??? What are you talking about? I can assure you Melodious, and Gustard, and many others use this concept
> because it has some advantages.


 
 the idea is to use only one bridge and one secondary of the 2 of the new transformer, a 40VA unit
 20VA should be more than enough to power effectively the board.
*I do not know if leaving one of the secondaries unused and open will damage the transformer.  *
*I do not think so but i would like to be sure anyway.*
   
*Quote:*


> And, removing caps, and using a lower capacitance, I wouldn't prefer that either.


 
  
 i could leave all the caps but *maybe 4400uF of capacitance in the PS should be enough *... it is a lot indeed.  And of FG quality.
  
*Quote:*


> Note: Keep it as original as possible, replace components with better ones, and leave the "altering schematics" to the people who studied electronics.
> Off course you can do it the way you think it's best, but to be honest, I don't think you should.
> So, using both secondary outputs of your transformer, replacing both rectifier bridges, replacing 4 caps, that should do the trick.
> Maybe shield transformer with copper shield for best results.
> ...


 
  
 The diodes you propose are much more difficult to mount ...
*when i see the Tanly PS  i have immediately the feeling of a better PS and that i would like to see in the Melodious as well*.
 It seems to me that they design and build spectacular boards but then they skip on power supplies, that are also very important for the overall outcome.
*Maybe there is an agreement with manufacturers of much more expensive units do build good cheap things ... but not too good to put in danger the market of the boutique highend ?*




 I am sure this Melodious with the Tanly power supply, that would mean in terms of cost some more USD not more, would be my definitive converter.
 But the Tanly imported here with customs and shipping is more than 3 times the Melodious.
 Better to play a little with the PS in the Melodious.
 If i will damage it i will buy another ... and i will not touch it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Ok ... maybe only the FGs ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Sorry but your diodes are too difficult for me to work with and this is sad because i am completely sure that are very very good
 like i trust all your opinions and advice, let's be clear and thanks for giving me directions
*but i am an extremely low skilled guy *




 However ...  Why they do not provide integrated bridges is beyond my ability to understand
 Bridges are so handy to use ... they are just fantastic. There are even marks helping to wire them correctly ... what more one can ask ?
 Really i do not understand
 To end i have really to be more careful with the board ... i have seen that is delicate
 Why it must be so delicate i do not know ...
 Thanks again a lot,   gino


----------



## ginetto61

Hi just to say that i have decided to pull the trigger and i am buying things on ebay *to build and extremely basic not regulated DC supply.*
 And leaving the regulation task to the regulator on board.
*The idea is just to put together better parts that the ones in the Melodious box.*
 I have bought:

a better transformer,
better diodes and
good Sprague caps ...
 and that will be all.
  
 Then the unregulated DC voltage (about 12,6V because the transformer is 9V)  will be sent to the Melodious board
 In this way the mod will be completely reversible and i will be able to compare the two solutions: external and internal PS.
  
*However I have a big concern about the regulator on board. *
*I wonder if it will get too hot with 12.6V at the input. This is my main concern.*
*What do you think ? will 12.6V be too much for it ?*
  
 Unfortunately i cannot find 7v or 8V unit on ebay.   They go from 6 to 9 usually.
 If you have any suggestion of any supplier  ...
 it is a midterm project.
 Thanks a lot again.
 have a nice day
 Gino


----------



## abartels

6v should be fine too. 12,6 is high, too high in my opinion,,,


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> 6v should be fine too. 12,6 is high, too high in my opinion,,,


 
  
 Hi and thanks again.
 No way to find a 7V or 8V EI transformer ... no way.  Values jump from 6 to 9. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 It seems indeed that 6 and 9 are more standard values for secondaries voltage. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



*last thing that i would want is to fry the regulator *... that would be the end of all games for sure
 i have to content myself with the stock design, to keep a much lower profile and ... to stop dreaming
 hope the caps will do something anyway
 if only this unit had the PS of the Tanly ... i would be very happy 
 Regards, gino
  
 P.S. in the end found one and bought it.
 sadly not small enough to fit in the original case, but it looks ok
  
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291216912314?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## abartels

Hi all,
  
 First irreversible step in modding my MX-U8:
  
 Removed the  IEC320 inlet which is VERY crappy quality btw and replaced it with a 100% red copper - rhodium plated one.
 Because I needed some more room in enclosure for the 2x R-Core 28VA (with Copper shield) I had to mount the new IEC320
 external, so I created a wooden block and mounted IEC320 in there.
  



  
  
 Just waiting for the R-Cores to arrive so I can start the whole project.
  
 So far done in advance:
  
 -1 Building the 0.8uV noise PSU from DIYINHK with 4700uF-16V Nichicon FG's
 -2 Replacing the 4x  2200uF-25V BC stock caps with 4x 2200uF-16V Nichicon FG's
 -3 Fabricated NDK NZ2520SD TCXO's on adapterboards
 -4 Replaced stock IEC320 with Red Copper - Rhodium plated one, mounted external
  
  
 To do's:
  
 -1 Mount R-Cores in enclosure
 -2 Put some 3M AB5100S leftovers in enclosure under pcb-section
 -3 Mount main pcb
 -4 Mounting a full copper shield between psu-section and pcb-section (have to buy that one and make it fit in enclosure)
 -5 Mount 0.8uV psu in enclosure
 -6 Mount the NDK's on the main pcb
 -7 Connecting all wires
 -8 Put 3M AB5100S leftovers on caps and chips
  
 -9 Closing enclosure 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 -10 Light a candle and hoping MX-U8 will start-up correctly 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Pictures will follow asap
  
 Cheers,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hi all,
> 
> First irreversible step in modding my MX-U8:
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex good morning and congratulations again for the very nice job.
 I am waiting for the pics.
 During the thread my interest for power supplies has grown exponentially.
 In particular i am now obsessed with _*power supplies noise measurements.*_
 I have a very cheap Hantek pc scope that i am trying to use  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




... and i have come to the conclusion that is not enoug. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Well ... maybe it could be if i can find a uV signals low noise amplifier ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I think its sensitivity is around 10mV ... but i am not sure about this.  Specifications are not clear.
 I think that this kind of measurements are the acid test at least for power supplies modifications.
 A stable clean supply i think is mandatory for any quality device.
  
*Are you going to perform any noise measurement ? how ?*
  
 As i said my only chance is to find a suitable uV signal very low noise amplifier. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Thanks a lot again.
 Kindest regards.  gino


----------



## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex good morning and congratulations again for the very nice job.
> I am waiting for the pics.
> During the thread my interest for power supplies has grown exponentially.
> In particular i am now obsessed with _*power supplies noise measurements.*_
> ...


 
  
 Hi Gino,
  
 I'm not going to measure, don't have the equipment to do, can ask a friend of mine, but it's what I hear, not what I measure,,,,,
 I follow design rules, selecting components, measurements would be ok too.
  
 Today I made the copper shield for shielding / separating R-Core transformers from electronics enclosure, it looks quite nice,
 it's 5mm thick copper 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 VERY heavy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  

  

  

  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hi Gino,
> 
> I'm not going to measure, don't have the equipment to do, can ask a friend of mine, but it's what I hear, not what I measure,,,,,
> I follow design rules, selecting components, measurements would be ok too.
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex thanks a lot for the kind reply
 Impressive slab of copper indeed !
 I am very interested to see some pictures, even during the process ... i like pics a lot  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 in the meantime i understand now that *i have made an horrible mistake*
 i bought *a LIPO battery that if pierced catches fire. *




 I understand also that putting it after complete discharge in a bucket of salt water makes it inert.
 Is it true ? what a stupid mistake indeed.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Regards, gino


----------



## abartels

Hi Gino,
  
 When I receive the R-Core transformers I will post all pics and describe what I did.
 For now it looks it could take up to 2 weeks before receiving the R-Core transformers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 EDIT: They are on their way to my very helpfull middleman Riemann 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 , so, I expect them in a week or so 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 When they arrive I will post a step by step "manual" including all pics.
  
  
  
 What are you talking about your mistake? Are you planning to stick a pin or something in your LIPO?
 Or, planning to throw your LIPO in a bucket of water???
  
 Just use your LIPO for the purpouse you bought it for, don't see any problems at all.
  
  
 I suppose it's a joke or??
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hi Gino,
> 
> When I receive the R-Core transformers I will post all pics and describe what I did.
> For now it looks it could take up to 2 weeks before receiving the R-Core transformers
> ...


 
 Thanks a lot  Alex !
  


> What are you talking about your mistake? Are you planning to stick a pin or something in your LIPO?
> Or, planning to throw your LIPO in a bucket of water???
> Just use your LIPO for the purpouse you bought it for, don't see any problems at all.
> I suppose it's a joke or??
> ...


 
  
 given the Vsupply around 10VDC of the device i was thinking to try, as an experiment, batteries. Just for curiosity.
 I looked in ebay and found these bloody LIPO batteries used for model elicopters and cars by hobbysts.
 They are quite powerful and small size ... they even fit inside the Melodious box
 So i bought one and now i am waiting to receive it.
 Look here the risk (this could happen any time)
  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DcpANRFrI4
  
 stupid me.  I do not want to run this risk for sure.
 And i have decided to stop the idea of batteries.
 The first thing i will do when i receive it is to dispose it in a possible safe way.
 In a bucket of salt water and pierced to make it inert and then to the disposal center.





  bad thing ignorance ...
  
 Bye, gino


----------



## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Thanks a lot  Alex !
> 
> 
> given the Vsupply around 10VDC of the device i was thinking to try, as an experiment, batteries. Just for curiosity.
> ...


 
  
 Hello Gino,
  
 I had several lipo's in several mobile phones, those batteries where NOT from original manufacturers, just very cheap replacements.
 And, YES, I'm still alive 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 If you use a good charger, there's no problem at all.
 You don't have to throw them away!
  
 LIPO, it's Lithium Polymer, it's used in more products than you can think of.
  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hello Gino,
> 
> I had several lipo's in several mobile phones, those batteries where NOT from original manufacturers, just very cheap replacements.
> And, YES, I'm still alive
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex and thank you very much for you kind support
 but i am feeling that it would be better to wait a moment and try to learn before acting
 I am waiting for an opinion about the Melodious used as stock with a Nad M51 that is indeed a very good piece of dac.
 I have bought some Nichicon from Mouser and i think that in the end i will just use them
 I have not enough skills and competence to do something more complex. I am a wannabe modder without any skill ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 However I will follow your project with the greatest interest hoping to learn
 And the size of the box also does not help either. It is too small. Nothing fits in ...
 By the way ... i have bough also some of these ...
  
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/32302878570_1/1Pcs-font-b-DC-b-font-Power-Jack-Socket-Female-font-b-Panel-b-font-font.jpg
  





  Bye !  gino


----------



## ginetto61

Hi Alex !
  
 Do you think the U8 could work with a* 3.7x2 = 7.4 VDC*  ? it is the series of two Li Ion batteries.
 i have seen something interesting ... the Chord Hugo dac, quite a good one from what i read

 it seems to work also with just two Li Ion 3.7V batteries 
 So maybe also the Melodious ... 
 They are really cheap on ebay and with many accessories like holders and chargers
  
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=li+ion+battery&_udlo=50&_sac=1&_sop=15&_mPrRngCbx=1&LH_BIN=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xli+ion+battery+6800.TRS0&_nkw=li+ion+battery+6800&_sacat=0
  

 i do not know if 7.4 VDC would be enough to power the U8 circuits by the way.
 and i wonder what is the current draw of the circuit as well ... maybe a charge would last only few hours
 What you think ?
 Regards,  gino


----------



## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex !
> 
> Do you think the U8 could work with a* 3.7x2 = 7.4 VDC*  ? it is the series of two Li Ion batteries.
> i have seen something interesting ... the Chord Hugo dac, quite a good one from what i read
> ...


 
  
 Hi Gino,
  
 18650 cells are useable, you need 2 in series to get the desired voltage, and, dont forget, you need 2 sets to power the U8, at least, if you want to do it the right way,,,
  
 Also, there are MANY chinese 18650 cells which are NOT capacity as described. Those UltraFires are most likely ripp-offs. There are UltraFire 18650 cells on the market
 who have written 6000mAh on them,,,,,,,,,,,,,
  




  
 I can tell you for sure that highest capacity is around 3300mAh. If you want to go this road, just buy the Panasonic 18650. They are of good quality and capacity is correct.
 The 3000mAh versions from Panasonic are very good. They are in two versions available, with and without protection circuit. Buy the ones WITH protection circuit.
  
 You can buy them here:
 http://www.dx.com/p/3000mah-rechargeable-18650-battery-w-protection-ic-green-4-pcs-306878#.VX7A9M_tlBc
  
 BUT
  
 Often batteries from asia are marked as dangerous goods when shipping abroad, airfreight will probably decline package, so you end up with receiving your money back after
 a few weeks,,,,
  
 If you can buy them in your own country it is safest and fastest.
  
  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex
  
  
*EDIT:*
  
 I just saw your UltraFire's are even marked 6800mAh hahahahaha, divide it by 2, they probably won't have that capacity either,,,,,
 For what it's worth, I bought a flashlight a few months ago with one UltraFire 18650, marked 3000mAh.
 The flashlight draw 1200mAh. After 20 minutes that 18650 cell was empty,,,,,,
  
 That gives us: 1200mAh / 3 = 400mAh INSTEAD of 3000mAh
  
 Cheers


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hi Gino,
> 18650 cells are useable, you need 2 in series to get the desired voltage, and, dont forget, you need 2 sets to power the U8, at least, if you want to do it the right way,,,
> Also, there are MANY chinese 18650 cells which are NOT capacity as described. Those UltraFires are most likely ripp-offs. There are UltraFire 18650 cells on the market
> who have written 6000mAh on them,,,,,,,,,,,,,
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex !
 thanks a lot for the always very precious advice.
*Do you have an idea of the current draw of the U8 circuit ?*
 However i see batteries not very handy to use and with many drawbacks.
 Even before receiving them i am already abandoning the idea.
*I am back to a more traditional power supply option.*
 I have been buying something on ebay ...
 when i will receive them i will post some pictures
 They are regulator kits ....
  
 Lately i have been told that, *on principle, it is possible to filter out a lot of the noise even with a SMPS.*
 Of course the filter must be very well designed and executed.
 And that the noise spectrum (type of noise) it is also important, not only the level.
 Of course if you have just 1uV from 0 to 1 MHz ... that is good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I have been thinking a lot to SMPS after seeing clock generators using them.
 I do not have the least idea about what kind of filtering they are using.
 They look like off-the-shelf units ... like those from TDK.
 Mouser stocks many TDK models.
 But then additional filtering is needed to get the noise really down.
 This would be a much more convenient solution, of course.
 So i am still wavering ...
 Thanks again,  gino


----------



## Jerryfan

Alex,

If you don't mind, how much do you have in parts in your u8 mods?


----------



## abartels

jerryfan said:


> Alex,
> 
> If you don't mind, how much do you have in parts in your u8 mods?


 
  
 Hi JerryFan,
  
 The components in total exceeds MX-U8 itself,,,,,
  
 1x 0.8 uV noise psu including shipment                   68,00
 2x Nichicon FG 4700uF-16V                                     3,60
 4x Nichicon FG 2200uF-16V                                     7,00
 8x Schottky Cree diode                                           8,00
 2x DIP14 socket                                                     2,30
 2x NDK NZ2520SD including shipment                    20,00
 2x R-Core 2x7V 28VA – Copper shield                     25,00
 2x adapterboard for NDK                                         0,15
 1x Tellurium RCA                                                   15,00
 1x IEC320 Rhodium plated                                      15,00
 1x Copper shield 5mm x 40mm x 150mm                 25,00
 1x screws nuts & bolts                                             5,00
 1x several materials (glue, wood, wire etc.)             10,00
 1x Shipment costs several components                    40,00
  
 And, i had to order some alternative for 3M AB5100S which I can't find nowhere anymore, those sheets were way too expensive,
 don't have a model number or brandname, they look like 3M but are not the same. I won't add them to the list, otherwise the cost
 would almost double,,,,,,,,,,,,,
  
  
 Tomorrow I will start modding, sadly I have a customer after work this evening so can't start modding MX-U8 today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

Hi Alex !
 this project looks extremely serious. I am sure the result will be fantastic.
  
 I have only place the new Nichicon FG 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and i have already risked to ruing the pcb during the desoldering of the original caps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I am using exactly this desoldering pump here ...
  
http://image.dhgate.com/albu_280646795_00/1.0x0.jpg
  
 it could be that i am using a too big nozzle 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 ... because the small holes for caps on the pcb remained closed by the solder 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I have to look for different nozzle sizes.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I have to say instead that for bigger parts it works quite ok and it is very handy.
 I will wait for your pictures before doing anything.
 However the sound was good already in the stock version
 and still good after the caps replacement.
 ... but better is always better.
 Thanks a lot for disclosing your expertise and projects.
 Kind regards,  gino


----------



## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex !
> this project looks extremely serious. I am sure the result will be fantastic.
> 
> I have only place the new Nichicon FG
> ...


 
  
 I hope my XM-U8 will sound as aspected, we will see 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I think the nozzle indeed is too big, hope you can find a smaller one!
  
  
 I will post complete modifying project when finished 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Regards,
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *abartels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> I hope my XM-U8 will sound as aspected, we will see


 
 Hi Alex !
 i am sure of that.  I have become a complete believer about the importance of fighting the PS noise above other things.
 It kills the low level details ... it masks them.
 And i guess that things like* 3d virtual soundstage depend on this low level details a lot.*
 I have seen a very simple but nice explanation of noise and distortion by an Hegel Audio man on Youtube but i cannot find the link again sadly.  Very very clear about how detrimental can be noise for good sound.
  


> I think the nozzle indeed is too big, hope you can find a smaller one!
> I will post complete modifying project when finished
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Thanks a lot ... and also some intermediate pics would be nice
 To be able to follow the all process better.
 Kind regards, gino


----------



## rb2013

Nice work Alex - I am curious to see your results!


----------



## abartels

Hello all,
  
 Tonight after work I started placing the transformers in enclosure, mounted copper shield between transformers and pcb.
  
 First problem: IEC320 external mount is not deep enough and couldn't remove because of heavy 2-component glue.
 But I finally got it to fit!
  
 I will reorder an extra backpanel in the future, but for now it's good enough for me
  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  
  
 After that I removed the RCA from PCB and removed the two crappy standard diode bridges.
  
 I replaced one of the diode bridges with ultrafast, zere switching time (???) CREE diodes.
  

  

  

  

  

  
 It's very tight, but doable. Those CREE's don't have connection at housing, so no need for isolating and no fear for hazzards 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Here are some pics how it will look when it's ready,,,,,
  

  

  

  
 Next Thursday I have time to finish it, I hope,,,
  
 There's still some work to do,,,,
  
  
 Hope you guys enjoy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 (Having a glass of wine now, pfff,,,,)
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## rb2013

Nice work alex- may try that bridge rec swap.


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> Nice work alex- may try that bridge rec swap.


 
  
 Thanks Bob,
  
 I never used those Cree's before, it was another member who asked me if they were any good.
 After searching a lot on the internet I found some threads were they were VERY fond of those cree's, the whole series.
  
 Someone, an audio guru, told: If you wanna squeeze EVERY LAST BIT of your equipment, try the CREE's, hahahaha
  
 So, that's what i've done,,,
  
  
 Going home early, cancelled appointment, so I wil be modding again this evening 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
  
 Cheers  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## hgpsemaj

abartels said:


> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I never used those Cree's before, it was another member who asked me if they were any good.
> After searching a lot on the internet I found some threads were they were VERY fond of those cree's, the whole series.
> ...


 
  
 Hello Alex,
  
 Superseded, answer found.
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Riemann


----------



## abartels

Sorry guys, went to the pub for dinner and some drinks, i ended up with a nice dinner and lots of whisky,,,,, tomorrow is another day,,,, 

Keep up the good work! 

Cheers, 

Alex


----------



## abartels

Hi guys,
  
  
 Just finished modding my MX-U8 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I'm listening to it while writing this post.
  
 First listening impressions:
  
 It smokes my U12 in every way, even if it hasn't burned-in yet!
 Voices are much more realistic, soundstage is fabulous, tonal balance is much better, sub-low is almost scaring 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
  
 Will post some images later, have to listen some more, and then I will finish and closing enclosure.
  
  
  
 Cheers     
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex
  
 Btw, especially many thanks to Riemann (hgpsemaj) who provided me with the R-Core transformers and the VERY handy adapterboards to solder the NDK XO's


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Tonight after work I started placing the transformers in enclosure, mounted copper shield between transformers and pcb.
> 
> ...


 
 Alex,
  
 I see you used 16V FG caps in the PS  - don't they call for 25V?  Maybe not good to go with under rated power supply caps.
  
 Here is a photo of the stock U8


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> Alex,
> 
> I see you used 16V FG caps in the PS  - don't they call for 25V?  Maybe not good to go with under rated power supply caps.
> 
> Here is a photo of the stock U8


 
  
 Hi Bob,
  
 DC stays way beneath 25 Volts, actually in my case it's 9,5Volts.
  
 16Volt caps do the trick, 25Volts is way overdimensioned. 2200uF 16Volt FG's  are only little bigger than standard 2200uF 25V BC caps, so they fit nicely.
 And, for 0.8uV noise psu from DIYINHK, I also used 4700uF 16V FG caps,  instead of stock Pana FC's 5600uF-25V, bigger values wouldn't fit in enclosure.
 Since NDK's only draw 6mA i wasn't that affraid to lower the values.
  
  
 But thank you anyway to put it to my attention!
  
  
 Cheers    
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## abartels

Hello guys,
  
 I finally did put some 3M AB5100s leftovers on several components, closed the enclosure and listening again.
  
 First impression:
  
 Seems in my config 3M AB5100s doesn't make my MX-U8 lifeless as Bob (rb2013) experienced before.
  
 After burn-in period has passed I will do another comparison, it's not difficult to remove the stuff 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
 Some more pics:
  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  
  
 I will try to order a new backpanel next time when ordering some goods from china so  I can build a new backpanel with external IEC320.
  
  
  
  
 First SQ impressions are VERY impressive, very analogue sounding.
  
  
 But, one must not forget that modding costs about the same as the stock unit. I think I paid in total something about $450
 So, comparing with U12 is like comparing appels with pears!
  
 Very curious how it will sound after one week burn-in time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 For now I think I'm happy, very happy, with MX-U8.
  
 If I finally decide which dac i want to buy, one with I2S input, I will probably make my own DDC with I2s / without AES/SPDIF, and will compare with MX-U8.
 But that will be something for autumn I suppose,,,,,
  
  
 To be continued,
  
  
 Cheers    
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## DACLadder

abartels said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> I finally did put some 3M AB5100s leftovers on several components, closed the enclosure and listening again.
> 
> ...


 
 Nice, congrats...  16V rated caps are fine with 9Vdc.


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> DC stays way beneath 25 Volts, actually in my case it's 9,5Volts.
> 
> ...


 

 I see with your dual power supply configuration no need for the high volt caps.  Never heard of 'over demensional' before - what's that like? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Good luck with the project - looks very cool!


----------



## Monkey King

Are all the outputs active on the MX-U8 at the same time? For example, if I connect the coaxial RCA, optical, and AES outputs to three separate devices at once, will all three devices get the same signal?


----------



## MINORISUKE

abartels said:


> .....
> If I finally decide which dac i want to buy, one with I2S input, I will probably make my own DDC with I2s / without AES/SPDIF, and will compare with MX-U8.
> But that will be something for autumn I suppose,,,,,
> .....


 
 I look forward to hearing your result, as I encounter DSD channel mix (not swap) with my DAC via I2S/DSD (RJ45).
 As far as I know, there are not so many DAC models with I2S/DSD input (not via HDMI LVDS I2S/DSD).
 Audio-gd / L.K.S. MH-DA002, MH-DA003 / YSDZ: DA-03 (This is a Chinese design house which is very likely to have something to do with Mytek.)


----------



## abartels

minorisuke said:


> I look forward to hearing your result, as I encounter DSD channel mix (not swap) with my DAC via I2S/DSD (RJ45).
> As far as I know, there are not so many DAC models with I2S/DSD input (not via HDMI LVDS I2S/DSD).
> Audio-gd / L.K.S. MH-DA002, MH-DA003 / YSDZ: DA-03 (This is a Chinese design house which is very likely to have something to do with Mytek.)


 
  
 Hi Minorisuke,
  
 You've encountered DSD Channelmix, please explain, is it some sort of crosstalk between the channels you hear?
 Did you compare I2S pinout from your DAC with MX-U8? What kind of DAC you have?
  
 It's not that difficult to try making an I2S RJ45 cable, at least, if you have the krimp-tool, just to try if you can sort-out the problem.
  
  
 Cheers   
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
 Alex


----------



## abartels

Minorisuke,
  
 Maybe it's a good idea to try the Audio-GD I2S kits.
  
 I Am planning to use one I2S output kit, but I have to buy an I2S dac first before i will try this,,,,,,
  
 http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/diy/I2Skits/I2SEN.htm
  

  
 Input module cost $18 excluding shippingcosts
 Output module cost $20 excluding shippingcosts
  
 Maybe worth to try?
  
  
 Cheers    
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## MINORISUKE

abartels said:


> Hi Minorisuke,
> 
> You've encountered DSD Channelmix, please explain, is it some sort of crosstalk between the channels you hear?
> Did you compare I2S pinout from your DAC with MX-U8? What kind of DAC you have?
> .....


 
 Thank you for your reply.  I have tried everything I could do.  I know Audio-gd I2S kit that converts HDMI LVDS I2S/DSD to "normal" I2S/DSD.
 I am 100% sure that the pin assignment of my hand-made cable is correct, as PCM files can be played correctly.  Except GND, there are only three: DATA, LRCK, BCLK (for DSD: RDATA, LDATA, DSDCLK).
 My DAC is equivalent to LKS MH-DA002 and I have already consulted with its circuit designer, a Japanese man.  It does not accept MCLK input.
 With my DSD test file, "Left Channel" voice which should come only from the left loudspeaker stays in the middle, "Right Channel" the same.  Strangely, it has a depth.  "Leff" stays in front, "Right" in the back.  This happens both with MX-U8 and U12 via Tanly conversion board (HDMI LVDS I2S/DSD to "normal" I2S/DSD, similar to Audio-gd I2S kit).
 On the other hand, the internal USB-I2S/DSD board of my DAC works perfectly with DSD.  Combo384 is said to work fine too, as it is also an option as the internal USB-I2S/DSD board of this DAC.  I connected the output of MX-U8 directly to this internal pins, but the DSD channel mix still happens.
 I asked some owners of U12 and DAC-X12 in the forum and all replied DSD playback was correct.
  
 What I have not tested yet is to connect MX-U8 or [U12+Tanly conversion board] output to a different DAC that has I2S/DSD input (not HDMI LVDS like DAC-X12, W4S, PS Audio).
  
 Therefore, I am curious if you get a DAC with I2S/DSD input (not HDMI LVDS), connect MX-U8 to it, and play DSD files.


----------



## abartels

minorisuke said:


> Thank you for your reply.  I have tried everything I could do.  I know Audio-gd I2S kit that converts HDMI LVDS I2S/DSD to "normal" I2S/DSD.
> I am 100% sure that the pin assignment of my hand-made cable is correct, as PCM files can be played correctly.  Except GND, there are only three: DATA, LRCK, BCLK (for DSD: RDATA, LDATA, DSDCLK).
> My DAC is equivalent to LKS MH-DA002 and I have already consulted with its circuit designer, a Japanese man.  It does not accept MCLK input.
> With my DSD test file, "Left Channel" voice which should come only from the left loudspeaker stays in the middle, "Right Channel" the same.  Strangely, it has a depth.  "Leff" stays in front, "Right" in the back.  This happens both with MX-U8 and U12 via Tanly conversion board (HDMI LVDS I2S/DSD to "normal" I2S/DSD, similar to Audio-gd I2S kit).
> ...


 
  
 Ok, that's loud and clear, don't have any clue why this happens. I don't think I will buy an I2S DSD DAC soon, at least not before the end of the year,
 but, if I get one, I will test it off course!
  
 Hope you can solve it in the meantime!
  
 Btw, maybe this is some interesting stuff:
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/1905#post_11703375
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## MINORISUKE

abartels said:


> .....
> Btw, maybe this is some interesting stuff:
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/1905#post_11703375
> .....


 
 Thank you.  The link you quoted is for channel swap, not for mix.  Actually, it is not a swap, either.  U12 and PS Audio assign differently.


----------



## abartels

minorisuke said:


> Thank you.  The link you quoted is for channel swap, not for mix.  Actually, it is not a swap, either.  U12 and PS Audio assign differently.


 
  
 You are right, sorry, my mistake,,
  
 Maybe you can find an audiostore near your surroundings which sell DAC with I2S/RJ45 input to test if your I2S output works correctly?
 If I read your findings it seems to me there's something wrong with your MX-U8.
  
 And, to be honest, after reading rb2013's findings about MX-U8 bad solderings, and my own findings about the very poor soldering job in my MX-U8,
 I wouldn't wonder if there's something wrong with your device.
  
 I really think it's best to test it with another kind of dac which has I2S/RJ45 input, especially since other users, like motberg, don't have any issues with MX-U8.
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## MINORISUKE

abartels said:


> You are right, sorry, my mistake,,
> 
> Maybe you can find an audiostore near your surroundings which sell DAC with I2S/RJ45 input to test if your I2S output works correctly?
> If I read your findings it seems to me there's something wrong with your MX-U8.
> ...


 
 I also suspected that something was wrong with MX-U8 firmware, but had to stop doubting it after having seen that the DSD channel mix also happened with U12.
 As far as I know, none of the MX-U8 users in this forum has tried connecting it with a DAC with I2S/DSD input (RJ45) and playing DSD files.
 And yes, it is the best and the only way to check with another DAC with I2S/DSD (RJ45) input, which is however almost impossible unless I buy a new one.


----------



## abartels

minorisuke said:


> I also suspected that something was wrong with MX-U8 firmware, but had to stop doubting it after having seen that the DSD channel mix also happened with U12.
> As far as I know, none of the MX-U8 users in this forum has tried connecting it with a DAC with I2S/DSD input (RJ45) and playing DSD files.
> And yes, it is the best and the only way to check with another DAC with I2S/DSD (RJ45) input, which is however almost impossible unless I buy a new one.


 
  
 It seems I'm still awakening, even if it's almost 1:30 PM overhere,,,,,, again I didn't read punctual,,, you have the exact same problem with your U12, hmm, thats very strange.
  
 You were talking about: The designer told you the dac doesn't accept MCLK input, that's something Kingwa is also talking about on the I2S modules page I posted above.
 He says: 
  
*Performance improve advice:*
*A,*If you had some skill on DIY and had the ES9018 built in DAC.
 You can try the below advice.
 Both RJ45 and HDMI I2S transmit models, the most ES9018 had not request the MCLK signal, you can cut the MCLK wire in the source , connect to GND or chassis if it is connect to GND.
Please Note: 
 1,After this modify, the I2S source only can working with ES9018 built in DACs  and the design don't request on the MCLK.
 2,The DIY always had the risk , we can't warranty any people can finished the modify  succeed and safe on the unit.

*B, *For compatibility with other brands,the default data line up is : DATA, BCLK, WCK, MCLK, GND.
 You can try the new line up but it is may not compatibility with other brands : 
 DATA, WCK, BCLK, MCLK, GND .
  
  
 You just want to exchange the WCK and BCLK wires in the input module output side and the output module input side.
  
  
 Maybe you can try the above? Or, did you simply not connected MCLK?
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## MINORISUKE

abartels said:


> It seems I'm still awakening, even if it's almost 1:30 PM overhere,,,,,, again I didn't read punctual,,, you have the exact same problem with your U12, hmm, thats very strange.
> 
> You were talking about: The designer told you the dac doesn't accept MCLK input, that's something Kingwa is also talking about on the I2S modules page I posted above.
> He says:
> ...


 
 Sorry to keep you awake.  My DAC is ES9018 dual mono and does not require any MCLK input.  (There is no method to give MCLK to it.)
 I know this statement by Kingwa and tried to connect MCLK to GND, which made no change (= still with DSD channel mix) in [U12 + Tanly conversion board], but no output even from AES/EBU in MX-U8.
 About B., I suppose it is simply a matter of pin assignment.  With the current connection, PCM files are played correctly.


----------



## abartels

minorisuke said:


> Sorry to keep you awake.  My DAC is ES9018 dual mono and does not require any MCLK input.  (There is no method to give MCLK to it.)
> I know this statement by Kingwa and tried to connect MCLK to GND, which made no change (= still with DSD channel mix) in [U12 + Tanly conversion board], but no output even from AES/EBU in MX-U8.
> About B., I suppose it is simply a matter of pin assignment.  With the current connection, PCM files are played correctly.


 
  
 It seems strange to me that Kingwa is talking about:
*RJ45 model pins define:*
 Pin 1 : SDATA
 Pin 3 : LRCK
 Pin 5 : SCLK
 Pin 7 : MCLK
  
*HDMI model pins define:*
 Pin 1 : SDATA -                      Pin 2 : GND                          Pin 3 : SDATA +
 Pin 4 : SCLK +                        Pin 5 : GND                          Pin 6 : SCLK -
 Pin 7 : LRCK -                         Pin 8 : GND                          Pin 9 : LRCK +
 Pin 10: MCLK +                      Pin 11: GND                          Pin 12: MCLK -
 Pin 13: NC                               Pin 14: NC                            Pin 15: NC
 Pin 16: NC                              Pin 17: GND                          Pin 18: NC
  
 And you are talking about:
  
*Except GND, there are only three: DATA, LRCK, BCLK (for DSD: RDATA, LDATA, DSDCLK*
  
  

  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## MINORISUKE

abartels said:


> It seems strange to me that Kingwa is talking about:
> *RJ45 model pins define:*
> Pin 1 : SDATA
> Pin 3 : LRCK
> ...


 
 Nothing strange to me.....
 Kingwa's SDATA=DATA, SCLK= BCLK, and MCLK is not used.
 For Amanero, 3, 4, 5 and GND are connected.


----------



## abartels

minorisuke said:


> Nothing strange to me.....
> Kingwa's SDATA=DATA, SCLK= BCLK, and MCLK is not used.
> For Amanero, 3, 4, 5 and GND are connected.


 
  
 Maybe it is wise to contact Tanly about this problem, maybe they can help.
  

  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## MINORISUKE

abartels said:


> Maybe it is wise to contact Tanly about this problem, maybe they can help.
> .....


 
 I am familiar with this figure, as I own Tanly's conversion board.   In terms of my DSD channel mix issue, I find no reason to ask them without owning their USB-DDC.
 There must exist a difference between the DSD output of MX-U8 and that of Combo384 from the same DSD file in the three signal lines [DSDCLK, LDATA, RDATA].


----------



## abartels

minorisuke said:


> I am familiar with this figure, as I own Tanly's conversion board.   In terms of my DSD channel mix issue, I find no reason to ask them without owning their USB-DDC.
> There must exist a difference between the DSD output of MX-U8 and that of Combo384 from the same DSD file in the three signal lines [DSDCLK, LDATA, RDATA].


 
  
 Combo384 uses LVCMOS output signals, what does Tanly HDMI>I2S deliver?


----------



## MINORISUKE

abartels said:


> Combo384 uses LVCMOS output signals, what does Tanly HDMI>I2S deliver?


 

 The Tanly converter board has no instruction manual.  MX-U8 is 3.3V CMOS, which had been confirmed by the manufacturer before my purchase decision.
 Both play PCM perfectly (including DXD) and DSD with channel mix.


----------



## abartels

Hmm, strange, i myself would think there's something wrong with your dac, but i really don't know,,,,,


----------



## mz2014

https://windows.uservoice.com/forums/265757-windows-feature-suggestions/suggestions/7019409-native-usb-class-2-audio-support


----------



## MINORISUKE

abartels said:


> Hmm, strange, i myself would think there's something wrong with your dac, but i really don't know,,,,,


 

 I do not think so.  As I wrote, it works perfectly with the internal USB-I2S/DSD board as well as Combo384.  The desginer of this DAC also says none of his customers who use I2S/DSD (RJ45) has ever encountered DSD channel mix.


----------



## abartels

Hello all,
  
  
 First things first, the *stock* Melodious MX-U8 sounds very good, but, not as good as my modified Gustard U12.
 The modded U12 has more detail, tighter bass, bigger soundstage, and has less (=no) listening fatigue.
  
 But, since stock MX-U8 came very close to my modded U12 I decided to select the best components to modify
 my MX-U8 and take it to a much higher level than stock version.
  
 My plans were:
  
 -1 Replacing the 4x 2200uF-25V BC caps in power supply
 -2 Replacing the cheap bridge rectifiers
 -3 Replacing the two XO's for audio frequency
 -4 Feeding the two XO's for audio with complete seperate power supply
 -5 Replacing the crappy IEC320 power inlet
 -6 Replacing the 2x9V 15VA Noratel transformer
 -7 Adding a second transformer for powering second power supply
 -8 Creating a copper shield between transformer compartment and pcb compartment
 -9 Shielding enclosure and components with 3M AB5100s
 -10 Replacing the RCA for SPDIF output
  
 First I took MX-U8 apart and measured what kind of transformers I could put in this enclosure.
 I found some R20 R-Core 28VA transformers which could fit in enclosure, but, to accomplish I had to move
 the IEC320 power inlet to the outside of the box.
  
 So I started to make a wooden block to mount the IEC320 on the outside of the enclosure.
 I bought a RED copper, Rhodium plated IEC320 inlet of high quality and mounted it with
 the wooden block on the backpanel. I mounted it with 2-component glue to the backpanel.
  

  

  

  
  
 I ordered 2 R-20 size 28VA 2x7V R-Core transformers with copper shield and static shield (earthwire).
 The base plate of those transformers were too big, so I had to cut of some metal before I could fit them
 in enclosure.
  
 I also had to remove some aluminium from the frontpanel (at the inside) to fit the transformers.
  
 The copper strips (5mm thick), which I bought to create the copper shield, had to fit in enclosure,
 and i had to drill some holes in it. This wasn't as easy as I thought it would be,,,,,
  
 Then i did put all together and mounted it on the baseplate of the enclosure.
  

  

  

  

  


  

  

  

  


  

  
 When putting all together I noticed I did miscalculate,,,,,, the wooden block wasn't thick enough,
 so there wasn't enough room,,,, I decided to place some spacers between backpanel and screw holes.
 (I will order a new backplate when I decide to make an HDMI-I2S output)
  

  

  
  
 I started to assemble the Ultra Low Noise ( 0.8 uV ) power supply from DIYINHK.
 The Panasonic FC caps were replaced with 4700uF-16V Nichicon FG's 
  

  

  
 Then I started to remove the BC caps from main pcb and replaced them with 2200uF-16V Nichicon FG's.
  

  

  
 For the ones who ask themselves why I used 16V caps instead of the stock 25V caps:
 The stock power supply power rail delivers a max of 9.5V before regulating (when using transformer with 7V output)
 This also counts for the Ultra Low Noise power supply.
  
 I needed to go lower on voltage otherwise the caps wouldn't fit in enlosure because of their height.
  
  
  
 After replacing  the caps I decided to try replacing the crappy bridge rectifiers with Cree C3D02060 ones,,,
 I desoldered the bridges, and also desoldered the stock RCA.
  

  

  

  

  
 It's a little tight, but it works and fit nicely.
  
 Then I soldered the Gaofei Rhodium RCA and the powerconnector for the pcb and mounted it in enclosure 
  

  

  
 Then I started to fabricate the NDK NZ2520SD XO's. I received some adapterboards from
 member hgpsemaj (thanks again Riemann) which made this task A LOT easier 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  

  
 I soldered some pins on the adapterboards, and soldered the wires from the Ultra Low Noise
 power supply directly to the adapterboards. I mounted the decoupling caps (rifa 0.01uF) under
 the adapterboard, as close as possible to vcc-gnd NDK2520SD
  
 Finally I put some 3M AB5100s leftovers in enclosure and on some components.
  

  

  

  

  

  
 I closed enclosure and started to burn-in the MX-U8
  

  

  
  
 Last Sunday I started burn-in time, so today, this evening, it will have 120 hours burn-in time,
 which probably isn't enough. For good listening impressions I will wait one extra day before final verdict.
  
*But, to lift a corner of the veil:*
  
 Yesterday I couldn't resist and listened to the MX-U8. I had a very big smile on my face, and several times
 gooseflesh (dispite of the high temperature which was about 38 degrees Celcius inside my appartement)
  
 Soundstage is incredible, tons and tons of details, tonal balance is much better, it has much more overall body,
 it seems it delivers huge dynamics i never experienced before, but, I could hear it wasn't completely burned-in.
  
 At the low-end it wasn't bed in, it was tight, but for my taste too much pressure, so, not tight enough.
 I know this is something which can settle-in when burn-in time has completed, so, tomorrow is another day for SQ impressions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Cheers       
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## Benny-x

abartels said:


> First things first, the *stock* Melodious MX-U8
> 
> [...]
> 
> ...


 
 Since we're in Tanly price territory now and the Tanly convertor comes with HDMI-I2s, we've got to see if we can get one of those in your hands to compare... I wonder which would come out on top?
  
 The fun of it all seems great, though, and it definitely makes a lot of food for thought in modding components in general. I've noted a few things   I hope you had fun with it.
  
 And I've seen those Gaofei parts around on eBay, but I always wondered if they were alright. Yours was good? Have you used them before or know of anyone else that has? I'm interested in picking a few things up from them.
  
 Nice job, nice write up, and good luck with the further listening impressions and enjoyment


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Hello all,
> 
> 
> First things first, the *stock* Melodious MX-U8 sounds very good, but, not as good as my modified Gustard U12.
> ...


 

 Nice Alex!  Cheers


----------



## abartels

benny-x said:


> Since we're in Tanly price territory now and the Tanly convertor comes with HDMI-I2s, we've got to see if we can get one of those in your hands to compare... I wonder which would come out on top?
> 
> The fun of it all seems great, though, and it definitely makes a lot of food for thought in modding components in general. I've noted a few things   I hope you had fun with it.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Benny,
  
 Just send me Tanly, I will compare 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 MX-U8 is still settling in, takes longer than i thought, normally it's about 150 hours, MX-U8 passed 150 hours and still improving,,,,,,
 Tomorrow final verdict 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 I had some Gaofei RCA's for my DAC, they are really good, very nice quality. I ordered some Yarbo's because of Tellurium + pole, but quality is disappointing, so using Gaofei.
 They are of good quality (at least the solderless ones)!
  
 Cheers      
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
  
 Alex


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> Nice Alex!  Cheers


 
 Thanks RB2013


----------



## abartels

abartels said:


> Hello all,
> 
> 
> First things first, the *stock* Melodious MX-U8 sounds very good, but, not as good as my modified Gustard U12.
> ...


 
  
  
 Hello all,
  
 Today, after 7 days of burn-in, I finally listened to MX-U8. As expected it sounds just        F A N T A S T I C        
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 It really needed 7 days of continous playing before sounding real good. Yesterday it still had a lot off troubles with playing low frequencies,
 now it's superb, lots of details in low frequencies as pressure and tightness.
  
  
 It is very very airy, tons of details, very tight lows with a lot of pressure, vocals are smooth as silk, very natural sounding.
 Soundstage is superb, vocals are as if they were almost in my room, live, very very impressive!
  
 Glad I went this route, it wasn't the easiest, but very glad I did it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Never would have thought that a DDC could have this much impact on SQ.
  
  
 Who's sending me a Tanly to compare? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 EDIT: My MX-U8 directly compared to Hydra-Z See post: http://www.head-fi.org/t/767935/melodious-mx-u8-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/255#post_11849461
  
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Today, after 7 days of burn-in, I finally listened to MX-U8. As expected it sounds just        F A N T A S T I C
> 
> ...


 

 Great news Alex - congratulations!


----------



## Benny-x

abartels said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Today, after 7 days of burn-in, I finally listened to MX-U8. As expected it sounds just        F A N T A S T I C
> 
> ...


 
 That's awesome news and I'm very envious of your setup now. Especially since you also have plans of adding HDMI-I2s to the MX-U8. I'm looking forward to hearing about that when you get around to it.
  
 As for sending you a Tanly, I'd love to have one and be able to. I'm really thinking about one for the fall, pending something else doesn't hop up and take it's place as the budget king of USB->HDMI-I2s, like potentially you modded MX-U8 does. 
  
 In all honesty, is there any way anyone thinks we could get the 2 units in the same room? They come out at almost identical prices, though much different sets of DIY effort. It'd be interesting to know 
  
 Anyway, good for you Alex, I'm really happy for you


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> Great news Alex - congratulations!


 
  
 Thanks for the congrats 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  


benny-x said:


> That's awesome news and I'm very envious of your setup now. Especially since you also have plans of adding HDMI-I2s to the MX-U8. I'm looking forward to hearing about that when you get around to it.
> 
> As for sending you a Tanly, I'd love to have one and be able to. I'm really thinking about one for the fall, pending something else doesn't hop up and take it's place as the budget king of USB->HDMI-I2s, like potentially you modded MX-U8 does.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thanks for the congrats 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 HDMI I2S will be another project indeed, but first I need to buy a DAC with HDMI I2S, my DAC only has spdif.
 And, to be honest, I had plans to build my own DDC with I2S HDMI only.
  
 Problem is, if I want to implement HDMI I2S the right way, I need another psu with another transformer,,,,,,
 I could use the onboard psu, but thats not the way it should be done,,,,
  
 I suppose if i build my own DDC, it will have seperate transformers and PSU's for all electronic stages, thus one for XMOS, one double for audio xo's and one for HDMI I2S print.
 So I would need at least 3 transformers. And, probably I would take use of O-Core transformers with earth shield. This automatically means I have to take a bigger enclosure,
 otherwise it all wouldn't fit in enclosure.
  
 But all that is for later this year.
  
  
 I would love to compare my MX-U8 with a Tanly, but problem is I live in The Netherlands, transport costs are too high to send my MX-U8 or receive a Tanly.
  
 The Tanly weighs 2.5Kg, my modded MX-U8 even weighs 2.7Kg
  
  
 If someone in The Netherlands (or in Germany or Belgium - a max distance about 200Km) would buy a Tanly, then we could meet and compare.
  
  
  
 Keep up the good work 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Cheers           
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hello all,
> Today, after 7 days of burn-in, I finally listened to MX-U8. As expected it sounds just        F A N T A S T I C
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex !  Excellent project indeed.  Congratulations !
 And thanks a lot for the very nice pictures !
 i would try it also myself if only i had  a clue of how this blessed device works.
 Without a schematic i am completely lost. 
 But if i understand well you have kept the original power supply based on the lt1963 on board only for the usb receiver and one clock 
 and replaced two of the clocks with new boards ?
 Unfortunately i cannot understand the circuit ... this is completely beyond my ability to understand.
 Congrats again. 
 Regards,  gino


----------



## hgpsemaj

abartels said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Today, after 7 days of burn-in, I finally listened to MX-U8. As expected it sounds just        F A N T A S T I C
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Hello Alex,
  
 Great effort and well done.
  
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Riemann


----------



## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex !  Excellent project indeed.  Congratulations !
> And thanks a lot for the very nice pictures !
> i would try it also myself if only i had  a clue of how this blessed device works.
> Without a schematic i am completely lost.
> ...


 
  
 Hello Ginetto,
  
 Yes, i kept all intact except the two audio xo's. I soldered the NDK's on the adapterboards and feed them directly with seperate psu and transformer.
 Only output of ndk is connected to pcb, so NOT VCC AND GND. This way it's completely galvanic seperated and fed with very clean power.
  
 Regards,
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hello Ginetto,
> Yes, i kept all intact except the two audio xo's. I soldered the NDK's on the adapterboards and feed them directly with seperate psu and transformer.
> Only output of ndk is connected to pcb, so NOT VCC AND GND. This way it's completely galvanic seperated and fed with very clean power.
> Regards,
> Alex


 
  
 Hi Alex thanks a lot again.   I have to be careful because even _*during desoldering the pc caps i run the risk of damaging the pcb*_   
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  that is very delicate and complex.
 But i understand how beneficial is using better quartzs.  Very beneficial. 
 Maybe in the future with a better understanding of the basics ... i have to study first.
 Kind regards, gino


----------



## DACLadder

Oops... My error... Meant to post this on Gustard U12 link.


----------



## MINORISUKE

DSD channel mix issue solved:
  
 I would like to report that my DSD channel mix issue was solved just now.
 Melodious instructs that No.5 pin [DSD] (and No.7 [DIN]) should not be connected, for this is reserved for their upcoming DAC.
 I was also instructed by Melodious that the most of ES9018 DACs switch DSD and PCM automatically.
 What I found out today was that the No.5 pin MUST BE CONNECTED to DSD-ON on my DAC.
  
 If there had been no instruction from Melodious about No.5 [DSD] pin usage, I would have tried to connect it on the same day as I received the unit in April.
  
 And I assume I am the first one who plays DSD files using I2S/DSD output of MX-U8.
 I thank those who gave me a comment regarding this issue.


----------



## rb2013

minorisuke said:


> DSD channel mix issue solved:
> 
> I would like to report that my DSD channel mix issue was solved just now.
> Melodious instructs that No.5 pin [DSD] (and No.7 [DIN]) should not be connected, for this is reserved for their upcoming DAC.
> ...


 

 Nice!  Good to hear this is finally resolved


----------



## Miracle1980

monkey king said:


> Are all the outputs active on the MX-U8 at the same time? For example, if I connect the coaxial RCA, optical, and AES outputs to three separate devices at once, will all three devices get the same signal?




I'm waiting for mine to be delivered. I am also curious about the question above...


----------



## m0reilly

i'm going to order one of these, with the is2 out being the desired connection of choice, but my present dac uses the hdmi method of i2s input. is there a source of info re making a dyi rj to hdmi cable, and/are there any sub $1000 dacs out there that include an i2s input via an rj jack that can be recommended anyone is aware of (using the gustard x12 atm)?


----------



## MINORISUKE

m0reilly said:


> i'm going to order one of these, with the is2 out being the desired connection of choice, but my present dac uses the hdmi method of i2s input. is there a source of info re making a dyi rj to hdmi cable, and/are there any sub $1000 dacs out there that include an i2s input via an rj jack that can be recommended anyone is aware of (using the gustard x12 atm)?


Regarding RJ45 --> HDMI LVDS I2S, I know Yanasoft DIY kit. You must communicate with the seller in Japanese.
http://yanasoft.jp/yana/hdmi_i2s.html


----------



## abartels

minorisuke said:


> DSD channel mix issue solved:
> 
> I would like to report that my DSD channel mix issue was solved just now.
> Melodious instructs that No.5 pin [DSD] (and No.7 [DIN]) should not be connected, for this is reserved for their upcoming DAC.
> ...


 
  
 Hi minorisuke,glad to hear you've got problem solved!!
  
 Regards,
 Alex


----------



## abartels

m0reilly said:


> i'm going to order one of these, with the is2 out being the desired connection of choice, but my present dac uses the hdmi method of i2s input. is there a source of info re making a dyi rj to hdmi cable, and/are there any sub $1000 dacs out there that include an i2s input via an rj jack that can be recommended anyone is aware of (using the gustard x12 atm)?


 
  
 Hi, Audio-GD has output and input kits, take a look at:
  
 http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/diy/I2Skits/I2SEN.htm


----------



## MINORISUKE

abartels said:


> Hi, Audio-GD has output and input kits, take a look at:
> 
> http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/diy/I2Skits/I2SEN.htm


 

 I do not think the Audio-gd I2S kit (I2S-->HDMI LVDS) has a connection for "DSD-ON" (HDMI pin No.15 for Gustard DAC-X12).  See the pin assignment on Audio-gd's page.  If you play only PCM files, it does not matter.


----------



## vincponc2610

Please create a separate thread for DYI modification of the product.
 People which are not willing to do DIY just want to have reviews of the out of the box product.
 It is too difficult to separate OOTB review from DYI details.


----------



## abartels

vincponc2610 said:


> Please create a separate thread for DYI modification of the product.
> People which are not willing to do DIY just want to have reviews of the out of the box product.
> It is too difficult to separate OOTB review from DYI details.


 
  
 You can read out of the box reviews here as well. The MX-U8 performes great, what do you want to know?
  
 Best bang for buck? 
  
 -1 Gustard U12
 -2 Melodious MX-U8
 -3 Tanly
  
 Best Sound Quality?
  
 -1 Tanly
 -2 Melodious MX-U8
 -3 Gustard u12
  
  
 We do try to make it for other people as easy as possible to convert their out of the box device into a high-end device, for a convenient price tag,
 We just can't deny that there's a modification possibility for everyone overhere, even the ones with absolutely no electronic skills.
  
  
 If you want to know how it sounds, please just ask, people overhere at Head-Fi will tell you (if you find this thread too technical to read).
  
 Regards,
  
  
  
 Alex


----------



## abartels

Hi Guys,
  
  
 Last week I listened several times to my modded MX-U8, and again I compared to my modded U12.
 I did this at my home, but also at a friends place who is owning a very different set than I do.
  
  
 There's no need for a blind test, when connecting MX-U8 "it seems" it is MUCH louder, which I can't understand because of digital output at 0db there should be no difference.
  
 I suppose this has something to do with 75Ohm impedance match, which seems MX-U8 does a much better job!
  
 Biggest differences are in tonal balance, every instrument or voice you hear at MX-U8 is very very natural sounding, just as if they were in my room.
 Of course pinpoint precision is much higher and soundstage is bigger and wider with tons of details. Everything is very smooth, absolutely no edges or other artifacts.
  
 The differences are that big that one couldn't believe it was the same set listening to. It delivers a whole different listening experience, it's like you're emotional connected
 to the music.
  
 I suppose it all has to do with feeding the Crystals with seperate, galvanic isolated, low noise psu.
  
 For the moment I really can't imagine there's some kind of interface, at any pricerange, that could outperform this MX-U8.
  
  
 Maybe, really just maybe, I'm gonna build external psu to feed the crystals in my U12, just to see if the differences indeed are from feeding the crystals with seperate, galvanic isolated low noise psu,,,,,,,,,
  
  
 Cheers         
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
  
 Alex


----------



## victorcc

Congratulations for your improvements!
  
 Quote:


abartels said:


> I suppose this has something to do with 75Ohm impedance match, which seems MX-U8 does a much better job!


 
   
How can the measure the output impedance of the U12?


----------



## abartels

Hi victorcc,
  
  
 Thanks for the congrats 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Measuring impedance, that's not as easy as it sounds, I dont have the equipment to measure it.
  
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## victorcc

That is too bad.I always wonder what is the impedance of the coaxial output of my transports/USB interfaces.

Thanks Alex


----------



## Miracle1980

I should receive mine tomorrow and i will use it with Audio-Gd NFB-7, using RJ-45 I2s connection. I am not planning to make any mods. I will report my feedbacks later.


----------



## JulioCat2

miracle1980 said:


> I should receive mine tomorrow and i will use it with Audio-Gd NFB-7, using RJ-45 I2s connection. I am not planning to make any mods. I will report my feedbacks later.


 
 Can you please post the PIN configuration you plan to use?? 
  
  
 Thanks


----------



## m0reilly

heck, i got the tanly bug...where can i purchase one? i'm in the us...


----------



## abartels

m0reilly said:


> heck, i got the tanly bug...where can i purchase one? i'm in the us...


 
  
  
 Not sure but i think most guys bought it at http://www.shenzhenaudio.com/
  
 Just ask seller for details.
  
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## m0reilly

they don't offer it outright? darn...


----------



## abartels

m0reilly said:


> they don't offer it outright? darn...


 
  
 Please send them email, i know they sold it to several Head-Fi members.
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## MINORISUKE

abartels said:


> Please send them email, i know they sold it to several Head-Fi members.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> ...


 

 Shenzhen Audio accepts your "special order" not listed on their Web store (and eBay).  You have to accept "no return" policy, even if the unit is defect.  They simply purchase via Taobao and add a reasonable surcharge.  Taobao's 7-day return policy is still valid, but it has been already expired by the time you get the unit.  The manufacturer's warranty is a separate issue, but you have to negotiate with the manufacturer directly.
 My MX-U8 was the "special order", as I ordered it before they started handling this model.


----------



## m0reilly

thanks for the info, but stacy (Shenzhen) said to try aliexpress (again). no luck, and no offer to act as middleman from Shenzhen Audio. darn


----------



## m0reilly

stacy has responded that because there is no return policy in place, she can not offer the tanly to Shenzhen customers...arg


----------



## MINORISUKE

m0reilly said:


> thanks for the info, but stacy (Shenzhen) said to try aliexpress (again). no luck, and no offer to act as middleman from Shenzhen Audio. darn


 
  


m0reilly said:


> stacy has responded that because there is no return policy in place, she can not offer the tanly to Shenzhen customers...arg


 
 Probably they have changed the policy for "special orders".  It is likely that somebody accepted no return policy, ordered the unit, found it was dead on arrival, claimed to Shenzhen Audio without remebering having accepted the no return policy.
 I know a person who can help you order from Taobao (of course, with surcharge and no return policy as well).  If you are interested, send me a message.  You can communicate either in German or English (and Chinese).  I asked this person twice and the handling charge was reasonable.  The payment is either PayPal (with surcharge) or a bank transfer to the Chinese bank account.


----------



## m0reilly

thank you 
 i figured as much re policy change. understandable. i have  an email request out to a taobao go between, awaiting response atm...


----------



## Miracle1980

juliocat2 said:


> Can you please post the PIN configuration you plan to use??
> 
> 
> Thanks


 
 I'm really not sure about the PIN configuration. I bought my Melodious used from an user that has the Audio-GD Master 7.  He provided the I2S configuration to Melodious and they prepared the device for the Audio-GD scheme.
 So i assume that it should work fine...


----------



## abartels

m0reilly said:


> thank you
> i figured as much re policy change. understandable. i have  an email request out to a taobao go between, awaiting response atm...


 
  
 I asked my middleman to respond to you, he could buy the Tanly for you and test it before he sends it to you.
 I bought several goods from Taobao thru him, he's someone you can trust for 100%. 
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## MINORISUKE

juliocat2 said:


> Can you please post the PIN configuration you plan to use??


 
 The connection between MX-U8 and Master 7 (PCM only DAC) cannot be a reference for NFB-7 (DSD DAC).
 There is a description about "DSD CTR input" on the NFB-7 page.  I assume it means "DSD-ON" which switches between PCM and DSD input (usually DSD: 3.3V, PCM: 0V).
 What model do you have (or are you going to have) with RJ45 I2S input?


----------



## m0reilly

thank you alex


----------



## Miracle1980

minorisuke said:


> The connection between MX-U8 and Master 7 (PCM only DAC) cannot be a reference for NFB-7 (DSD DAC).
> There is a description about "DSD CTR input" on the NFB-7 page.  I assume it means "DSD-ON" which switches between PCM and DSD input (usually DSD: 3.3V, PCM: 0V).
> What model do you have (or are you going to have) with RJ45 I2S input?


 
 I'm also interested in this. Basically i have an NFB-7 Dac and i bought the MX-U8 used that was ''configured'' from the dealer to match the pins scheme of Master 7.
 So in my case the DSD files will not work? What about the other PCM files? Will i have any issues using the RJ45 I2S?
  
 Thanks


----------



## MINORISUKE

miracle1980 said:


> I'm also interested in this. Basically i have an NFB-7 Dac and i bought the MX-U8 used that was ''configured'' from the dealer to match the pins scheme of Master 7.
> So in my case the DSD files will not work? What about the other PCM files? Will i have any issues using the RJ45 I2S?
> 
> Thanks


 
 The "DSD CTR input" of Audio-gd corresponds Melodious pin No.5 [DSD], but I know nothing about Audio-gd's product.  It seems that none of the 8 pins in RJ45 of Audio-gd represents "DSD CTR input" and an extra wire should be connected to "DSD CTR input".
 I do not know either how MCLK should be handled.  Generally speaking, MCLK does not have to be connected for ES9018 DACs.
  
 My assumption for NFB-7 is: (GND --> GND, needless to say)
 SDATA (MX-U8) --> SDATA (Audio-gd DSD DAC)
 LRCK (MX-U8) --> LRCK (Audio-gd DSD DAC)
 BCK (MX-U8) --> SCLK (Audio-gd DSD DAC)
 MCLK (MX-U8) --> no connection
 DSD (MX-U8) --> "DSD CTR input" (Audio-gd DSD DAC)
 DIN (MX-U8) --> no connection
  
 For your "special" version, [DSD] in the original pin No.5 may not be connected internally, as Master 7 does not need it anyway.
 You must find out the pin assignment of your modified MX-U8 first.


----------



## JulioCat2

minorisuke said:


> The connection between MX-U8 and Master 7 (PCM only DAC) cannot be a reference for NFB-7 (DSD DAC).
> There is a description about "DSD CTR input" on the NFB-7 page.  I assume it means "DSD-ON" which switches between PCM and DSD input (usually DSD: 3.3V, PCM: 0V).
> What model do you have (or are you going to have) with RJ45 I2S input?


 
  
 I Have a NFB-7 and planning to use the I2S input with the Melodious, even if only PCM, because the Audio GD USB-32 don't work well with OS X at 384 Khz


----------



## MINORISUKE

juliocat2 said:


> I Have a NFB-7 and planning to use the I2S input with the Melodious, even if only PCM, because the Audio GD USB-32 don't work well with OS X at 384 Khz


 
 If you only play PCM files, I think the above-mentioned (post #139) three pins (SDATA, LRCK, BCK) + GND works also for 384kHz on MacOSX.
 As for DSD, I assume pin No.5 + GND should be connected to "DSD CTR input".  Good luck!


----------



## JulioCat2

minorisuke said:


> If you only play PCM files, I think the above-mentioned (post #139) three pins (SDATA, LRCK, BCK) + GND works also for 384kHz on MacOSX.
> As for DSD, I assume pin No.5 + GND should be connected to "DSD CTR input".  Good luck!


 

 Thanks, for all your help!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## prot

abartels said:


> There's no need for a blind test, when connecting MX-U8 "it seems" it is MUCH louder, which I can't understand because of digital output at 0db there should be no difference.
> 
> I suppose this has something to do with 75Ohm impedance match, which seems MX-U8 does a much better job!




In my setup, direct PC-to-DAC is much louder than PC-U12-DAC. Prolly more than 5dB cause it's very easily audible .. doubt anyone can miss that diff. Both the coaxial and XLR outputs of U12 are same as 'quiet'

It still sounds better with the U12 in the chain but that thing surely does something funky. Cant really say what though and it's indeed strange.


----------



## MINORISUKE

prot said:


> In my setup, direct PC-to-DAC is much louder than PC-U12-DAC. Prolly more than 5dB cause it's very easily audible .. doubt anyone can miss that diff. Both the coaxial and XLR outputs of U12 are same as 'quiet'
> 
> It still sounds better with the U12 in the chain but that thing surely does something funky. Cant really say what though and it's indeed strange.


 
 I guess this difference comes from specifications of the DAC internal USB-I2S circuit and U12.  Some support "up to 32-bit", the other "only 24-bit".  If you compare both the internal USB-I2S and U12 with a 24-bit file as well as a 16-bit one, you may find something.


----------



## prot

minorisuke said:


> I guess this difference comes from specifications of the DAC internal USB-I2S circuit and U12.  Some support "up to 32-bit", the other "only 24-bit".  If you compare both the internal USB-I2S and U12 with a 24-bit file as well as a 16-bit one, you may find something.




Didnt think about that and my DAC is indeed 24/192 while the gustard is 32/384 iirc. But why would that make any difference? Afaik, the 24-32 bits are unused and there is hardly any piece of music with content above 20bits


----------



## ccschua

can I know what is the right driver to use ?
  
 does new driver helps to improve sound?


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> can I know what is the right driver to use ?
> 
> does new driver helps to improve sound?


 
  
 The driver I use is the 2.24 version It has also the cpl.app to set buffers and latency.
 Didn't use newer driver, don't know if there's 2.26 with cpl.app for MX-U8
  
 Send me PM, I will send it to you.
  
 If using Windows 8 or Server 2012 be sure to turn-off driver signing!
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## ccschua

by upgrading the clocks on Mx-U8 to NDK or Crystek, will it improve the sound ? 
  
 or is it more worthwhile to go for Tanly since its been better clock and totally isolated.


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> by upgrading the clocks on Mx-U8 to NDK or Crystek, will it improve the sound ?
> 
> or is it more worthwhile to go for Tanly since its been better clock and totally isolated.


 
  
 It is definitely worth to upgrade the clocks.
  
 Of course it all depends on how much funds you have to spend, standard Tanly will definitely sound better than MX-U8 with only clocks upgraded.
  
  
 Regards,
 Alex


----------



## ccschua

abartels said:


> It is definitely worth to upgrade the clocks.
> 
> Of course it all depends on how much funds you have to spend, standard Tanly will definitely sound better than MX-U8 with only clocks upgraded.
> 
> ...


 
 If I were to upgrade, pls tell me where to get the crystek clock, frequency and the adaptor board.


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> If I were to upgrade, pls tell me where to get the crystek clock, frequency and the adaptor board.


 
  
 As you've maybe noticed while reading this thread, i didn't use Crystek XO's but NDK's, they are from diyinhk and cost $8 each.
 Frequencies are: 22.5792Mhz and 24.576Mhz.
  
 http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/35-ndk-nz2520sd-20ppm-ultra-low-phase-noise-oscillator.html
  
 Adapterboards you can find here:
  
 https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.4.SpfRsD&id=19734749250&ns=1&_u=t29sgvbrf20f&abbucket=6#detail
  
  
 For Crysteks, you can buy them at digikey or mouser, otherwise just ask rb2013, he did buy and use them.
  
 Regards,
 Alex


----------



## hgpsemaj

This Melodious Audio DAC has an on board XMOS: 
  

  

  

  
  

  

  
  
 http://world.taobao.com/item/520510024359.htm?fromSite=main&amp;spm=a312a.7728556.w4004-11699250239.7.jNe1HX
  
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Riemann


----------



## ccschua

If I plan to use existing power supply to the clocks, how do I connect the pins ?
  
 the existing XO need to desolder or it already has a adaptor pins.


----------



## hgpsemaj

These are the pin location diagrams in respect of TCXO and Crystek CCHD-957:
  
  

  
  

  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Riemann


----------



## abartels

hgpsemaj said:


> This Melodious Audio DAC has an on board XMOS:
> 
> http://world.taobao.com/item/520510024359.htm?fromSite=main&amp;spm=a312a.7728556.w4004-11699250239.7.jNe1HX
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hello Riemann,
  
 This is a nice and cheap DAC, but not my cup ot Thea.
  
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> If I plan to use existing power supply to the clocks, how do I connect the pins ?
> 
> the existing XO need to desolder or it already has a adaptor pins.


 
  
 You need to desolder XO's. they are not on pins, but, you can ask Melodious to solder pint on the pcb for XO's when ordering MX-U8
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## devilboy

Hello.  Please forgive me for asking a very stupid question on a Melodious MXU8 thread but, I need another USB converter as my system has changed slightly.  I've been using an Audiophellio 2 for a couple of years and like it.  Actually, it's the only converter I've ever used so I really have nothing else to compare it to.  Anyway, how much better is the Melodious than the Audiophellio 2?  All my music is redbook, so I have no use/need for DSD.  My new dac does support DSD however.  I was thinking of either the Melodious or Tanly, something. 
  
 Again, sorry for the silly question, I'm just new to all this.


----------



## devilboy

Or Gustard U12?


----------



## Wildcatsare1

devilboy said:


> Or Gustard U12?




I am in the same boat, I have a new (old) Monarchy M22B R2R DAC. Ears I trust like the Melodious better, would love to solicit additional opinions though..


----------



## devilboy

Sorry to sound repetitive but just want to remind that, all of my music is redbook cd.  I have no need, nor do I wish to, upsample or have any use for, DSD.  That said, is the Melodious MXU8 overkill for my application? 
  
 I'm sure wildcats wants to know as well.


----------



## devilboy

Also, are there different versions?  I don't want to pay extra for a version that can support 384 if all my music is 44.1.


----------



## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *devilboy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> ...   *Anyway, how much better is the Melodious than the Audiophellio 2?*  ...


 
  
*I would be quite surprised if the Melodious were better than the Audiophilleo2 at 1/4 of the price 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



*
 and this without even considering the additional cost of the Pure Power power supply that sounds like a must for the best performance
 of course i would be extremely interested to read a comparison in a same system
 However i have the Melodious (stock with only new Nichicon FG Gold in the power supply) and i am finding it very good.
 Never listened to the Audiophilleo2 unfortunately.
 I guess it would be overkill in my system ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But your unit is very impressive. I read also some extremely positive reviews.
 Therefore i would stay on the Audiophilleo2 if i had it.
 With the Pure Power supply of course.
 The only thing it lacks is an AES/EBU out that i love and need.  My dacs accept AES signals.
 I bought the Melodious also for this.
 Regards,  gino


----------



## Wildcatsare1

Gino, thanks.....a Newbie to classic DACs, if I move forward with the Melodious is the AES/EBU the desired connection? Do you have any recommended cables?

Appreciate any advice!


----------



## ginetto61

wildcatsare1 said:


> Gino, thanks.....a Newbie to classic DACs, if I move forward with the Melodious* is the AES/EBU the desired connection? *


 
  
 Hi i base my thinking mostly on what i read in the interviews of designers of products considered as benchmarks by the audio community.
 In an interview the designer of the Berkeley Audio usb interface (a benchmark for all usb interfaces) spoke highly of the balanced digital connection
 mentioning the higher signal level than spdif (i.e. higher S/N ratio)  and a better noise rejection of the balanced connection.
 Incidentally it is the standard used by professional dacs (i have two of them and both have this connection).
  


> Do you have any recommended cables?
> Appreciate any advice!


 
  
 I am using cheap ones made out of Canare cables.  These ones here ...
  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/E01-1-5m-5ft-Canare-DA202-110-Coax-AES-EBU-XLR-Male-to-Female-Hi-End-Cable-/321475887285?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ad974c0b5
  
 actually i am using them also for analog connections.
 They sound ok.   You can try other by the way.
 I am finding the sound with AES connection more relaxed but still detailed.   Quite pleasant actually.
 Kind regards,  gino


----------



## Benny-x

ginetto61 said:


> *I would be quite surprised if the Melodious were better than the Audiophilleo2 at 1/4 of the price
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 The general consensus is that the Gustard U12 and the stock Melodious are better than the Audiophilleo1 + PP. The AP1+PP is said to be better than AP2 -PP, so I would gather that the these 2 are better units. I admit I haven't heard them, but neither have you   Just in keeping track of the various threads that's been the general vibe. 
  
 In fact, so far there hasn't been a shootout with the top tier converters vs. these newly found ones(Melodious, U12, or Tanly). Convertors like the Berkeley Alpha USB, the Sonicweld Diverter, or the fully upgraded Empirical Audio Off-Ramp 5. DACladder does have the OR5 and says the Gustard U12 plays around the same area, at least on the Audio-gd M7 with HDMI-I2s input, but I'd like to get more feedback and for some other DACs too.


----------



## ginetto61

benny-x said:


> *The general consensus is that the Gustard U12 and the stock Melodious are better than the Audiophilleo1 + PP*. The AP1+PP is said to be better than AP2 -PP,
> so I would gather that the these 2 are better units. I admit I haven't heard them, but neither have you   Just in keeping track of the various threads that's been the general vibe.
> In fact, so far there hasn't been a shootout with the top tier converters vs. these newly found ones(Melodious, U12, or Tanly). Convertors like the Berkeley Alpha USB, the Sonicweld Diverter, or the fully upgraded Empirical Audio Off-Ramp 5.
> DACladder does have the OR5 and says the Gustard U12 plays around the same area, at least on the Audio-gd M7 with HDMI-I2s input, but I'd like to get more feedback and for some other DACs too.


 
  
 Hi and thanks a lot for the very interesting information.
 I have both the U12 and Melodious ... both work but i tend to prefer the Melodious because it can work also without power on the usb cable.
 I am quite happy with the sound from the Melodious practically stock ... i have just replaced some capsin the power supply with Nichicon FGs.   The other products are too expensive for me but i am sure that the Berkeley is a prodigious unit indeed.   Just a feeling.
 I would think that is the best around.
 Thanks again,  gino


----------



## Wildcatsare1

Gino, 

Thank you, I appreciate your response!


----------



## ginetto61

wildcatsare1 said:


> Gino,  Thank you, I appreciate your response!


 
 Hi and you are welcome 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 i am just trying to put pieces of information together  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  information coming from experts
 For instance i believe in units with a very good quality/price ratio.   I mean with a reasonable price is possible to get a very good sound.
 Problem is that is not easy to test equipment without buying it.
 Good luck !
 gino


----------



## rb2013

ginetto61 said:


> *I would be quite surprised if the Melodious were better than the Audiophilleo2 at 1/4 of the price
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I've had the Audiophilleo 2 - both  the U12 and the MX-U8 are miles ahead in my systems.  Checkout the Hydra Z with the ZPM (or another high quality linear PS) that might be the ticket.  Next on my list to get (I've had 6-7 USB interfaces so far - see the beginnning of my Gustard U12 thread for the list).


----------



## ginetto61

rb2013 said:


> I've had the Audiophilleo 2 - both  the U12 and the MX-U8 are miles ahead in my systems.


 
  
 Hi and thanks a lot !  i was clearly underestimated both !
 I do not have a very revealing system.  I mean i know when i like the sound but i do not know how good it really is  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Very good news indeed ! i am using mostly the MX-U8 and trying different dacs i have already at hand to select the one i like most. 
  


> Checkout the Hydra Z with the ZPM (or another high quality linear PS) that might be the ticket.
> Next on my list to get (I've had 6-7 USB interfaces so far - see the beginnning of my Gustard U12 thread for the list).


 
  
 Beautiful !   it seems very well built indeed.  
 Unfortunately 3 times the price of the Melodious even without including the power supply.
 I am impressed also by the uF used in the power supply ... those are very big caps ( i like the solution a lot )
 And you say it is a clear step-up from the Melodious ?
 Thanks a lot again,  gino


----------



## Wildcatsare1

Bob, finally able to fire up the Monarchy 22B again, new caps and one transformer, any idea on burn in time before the settle in? Thanks!


----------



## rb2013

ginetto61 said:


> Hi and thanks a lot !  i was clearly underestimated both !
> I do not have a very revealing system.  I mean i know when i like the sound but i do not know how good it really is
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Yes, the Hydra Z is superior in build to the MX-U8, U12 and even the Tanly in several important ways: Cyrstek CHD950/957 clocks std, FPGA USB isolation, use of the ARM3 vs XMOS processor for USB processing, 5VDC power requirement (offers many excellent linear PS choices like the TeraDak, Acopian yellow box, ZPM, etc), PS in external case, Adjustable I2S output clock polarity, to match all HDMI/I2S/LVDS dacs available (very important to HDMI users), external clock feed to DAC (Word Clock and MAster clock outputs), etc...


----------



## rb2013

wildcatsare1 said:


> Bob, finally able to fire up the Monarchy 22B again, new caps and one transformer, any idea on burn in time before the settle in? Thanks!


 

 Great to hear.  Give those caps 100-150 hrs.  My Mundorfs took over 200


----------



## ginetto61

rb2013 said:


> Yes, the Hydra Z is superior in build to the MX-U8, U12 and even the Tanly in several important ways: Cyrstek CHD950/957 clocks std, FPGA USB isolation, use of the ARM3 vs XMOS processor for USB processing, 5VDC power requirement (offers many excellent linear PS choices like the TeraDak, Acopian yellow box, ZPM, etc), PS in external case, Adjustable I2S output clock polarity, to match all HDMI/I2S/LVDS dacs available (very important to HDMI users), external clock feed to DAC (Word Clock and MAster clock outputs), etc...


 
  
 Thanks again. A much more refined unit.  I see the pictures and it looks extremely well built ... 
 Regards, gino


----------



## infinity88

Hi, this is my first post in the forum. I'd like to ask, since I don't plan to do the level of modification to an mx-u8 as what was done by abartels, should I buy a gustard instead? I can replace capacitors, but I'm not wanting to go through the effort of mounting a new psu. 
 Is the modification for the Gustard u12 much easier? If so, will the result be better than this mx-u8 modified with caps? I would love to buy the tanly but it's not for sale it seems. Not sure which avenue is best...


----------



## rb2013

infinity88 said:


> Hi, this is my first post in the forum. I'd like to ask, since I don't plan to do the level of modification to an mx-u8 as what was done by abartels, should I buy a gustard instead? I can replace capacitors, but I'm not wanting to go through the effort of mounting a new psu.
> Is the modification for the Gustard u12 much easier? If so, will the result be better than this mx-u8 modified with caps? I would love to buy the tanly but it's not for sale it seems. Not sure which avenue is best...


 

 I have moded (upgraded the caps) on each and the MX-U8 does sound better.  Gustard has better driver support (well at least it ships with a driver disc), but that can be worked around.  The MX-U8 is a finicky beast  - I have had three and all of them have intermittent, random, incurable issues.  Not big things- petty annoyances- but the SQ is incredible!


----------



## infinity88

Hi rb2013, thanks for your reply.I have an MX-U8 on its way in the mail which is replacing a breeze audio with a CM6631A chip. I will A/B it once it arrives. I'm running a hackintosh so I doubt drivers will be an issue. Can I ask which capacitors you upgraded to? I need to order new caps. I would love to make this thing compete with something more expensive, if upgrading the psu isn't too complicated, I will consider that also.


----------



## rb2013

infinity88 said:


> Hi rb2013, thanks for your reply.I have an MX-U8 on its way in the mail which is replacing a breeze audio with a CM6631A chip. I will A/B it once it arrives. I'm running a hackintosh so I doubt drivers will be an issue. Can I ask which capacitors you upgraded to? I need to order new caps. I would love to make this thing compete with something more expensive, if upgrading the psu isn't too complicated, I will consider that also.


 

 I tried several and had good success with the Nichicon Fine Gold and HW's
  
 I also had very good success with this power supply filter - easy to just plug the MX-U8 into it.
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/181487658681?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  
 Good luck!


----------



## infinity88

Fine gold it is. They're practically free considering what I paid for the Mundorfs in my tube amp. I keep going back to read through abartels mods and it doesn't seem as complicated as before. I think I will do more than just capacitors for sure. This is a great thread! Thanks for your help and suggestion rb2013.


----------



## ginetto61

rb2013 said:


> Yes, *the Hydra Z* is superior in build to the MX-U8, U12 and even the Tanly in several important ways: Cyrstek CHD950/957 clocks std, FPGA USB isolation, use of the ARM3 vs XMOS processor for USB processing, *5VDC power requirement *(offers many excellent linear PS choices like the TeraDak, Acopian yellow box, ZPM, etc), PS in external case, Adjustable I2S output clock polarity, to match all HDMI/I2S/LVDS dacs available (very important to HDMI users), external clock feed to DAC (Word Clock and MAster clock outputs), etc...


 
  
 Hi again ... i just do not understand one thing
 I see from this picture here ... 
  

  
 that *the Hydra sports a dc power socket for using an external high quality power supply.*   
 When i proposed a similar solution/mod for the Melodious i got so many critics ... why ? 
 I see some very interesting benefits like to use a better mains transformer, keep it separated from the circuits ... i mean i see only good things ...
 I very much prefer the power solution used in the Hydra Z even if i cannot tell how much of the very good performance depends on the external power supply.
 Thanks again,  gino


----------



## rb2013

infinity88 said:


> Fine gold it is. They're practically free considering what I paid for the Mundorfs in my tube amp. I keep going back to read through abartels mods and it doesn't seem as complicated as before. I think I will do more than just capacitors for sure. This is a great thread! Thanks for your help and suggestion rb2013.


 
 Good Luck!  Be sure to drain the caps before replacing them.
  


ginetto61 said:


> Hi again ... i just do not understand one thing
> I see here
> 
> *http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0195/8522/products/HZ_back.jpg*
> ...


 
 Well I would Alex did it the right way (feeding the clocks) and it seems to work well.  I would say give it a try!  Cheers


----------



## ginetto61

rb2013 said:


> ...  Well I would Alex did it the right way (feeding the clocks) and it seems to work well.  I would say give it a try!  Cheers


 
  
 Hi ... actually i have been scared by some issues:
 1)   i have no idea of the schematic of the circuit ... i cannot see/follow the traces
 2)   i do not know where to connect  the +5VDC and the ground to the circuit.
 3)   everything is smd ... unfortunately.  It is for skilled people 
 I just like the Hydra Z solution.  
 If i understand well the 5VDC powers everything, from the usb receiver to the clock chips without any other regulators on the pcb ?
 Regards, gino


----------



## rb2013

ginetto61 said:


> Hi ... actually i have been scared by some issues:
> 1)   i have no idea of the schematic of the circuit ... i cannot see/follow the traces
> 2)   i do not know where to connect  the +5VDC and the ground to the circuit.
> 3)   everything is smd ... unfortunately.  It is for skilled people
> ...


 

 I have to see a close-up of the Z board to answer that last question.


----------



## ginetto61

Hi some pics ... 
  

  

  

  
 the chip under the small heatsink is the main regulator lt1963
 I did not measure but i think it outputs +5VDC and supplies all the other chips.
 If 5VDC is only what an usb to sdif converter needs i like the solution od a DC socket that allows to use the best PS one can afford.
 Like the case of the Hydra Z. The same company offers a high end power supply.
 Also i like immensely the mains transformer separated by the case with the circuit ... no transfer of vibrations, no EMI, etc.
  
 Another thing ,,,
  

  
  
 if the 220uF/25V cap is at the output of the regulator i would replace it with a nicer Nichicon FG 1000 uF/16V immediately.
 It is a superior cap that can decrease the ripple and noise. I would even put a small value plastic cap in parallel.
 But everything is so small. Damn ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Regards, gino


----------



## rb2013

ginetto61 said:


> Hi some pics ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Hi Gino,
  
 Did you add the heat sinks?  Or did Melodious start delivering with them.  Mine don't have them.


----------



## Wildcatsare1

Gino, RB2013;

I am absolutely loving my Monarchy M22B and had a couple questions for you.

First, comparing my Arcam FMJ CD23 to my MacBook's optical out. The same tracks sound much better on the Mac, with the optical in to the M22B. Is this to be expected?

Second, I will pick up a Melodious in the next couple of days. I am not technically adept enough to mod at your level, is there anybody out there doing the mods commercially?

Third, which connection do you prefer, AES/EBU, coaxil, or optical?

I really appreciate your advice!


----------



## abartels

Hi All,
  
 FYI:
  
 Tomorrow Hydra-Z will be shipped to me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 It's a new device so it needs burn-in time.
  
  
  
 I'll keep you guys posted 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
  
 Regards,
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

rb2013 said:


> Hi Gino,
> Did you add the heat sinks?  Or did Melodious start delivering with them.  Mine don't have them.


 
  
 Hi no it came like the pics
 Only thing i did is to remove the blue ps caps and put Nichicon FG 16V/220uF
 I can say, however, it is really better now.  The sound is good. I like relaxed sound, no noise but with all the detail present.
  
 Instead i think that a 1000uF after the regulator could be beneficial. 
 I have the feeling that they could have done much better with the power supply, while the rest is neat and well laid-out indeed (even if not accessible for me).
 Regards,  gino


----------



## ginetto61

wildcatsare1 said:


> Gino, RB2013;
> I am absolutely loving my Monarchy M22B


 
  
 Hi ! if you find a dac you love stick with it  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  


> and had a couple questions for you.
> First, comparing my Arcam FMJ CD23 to my MacBook's optical out. The same tracks sound much better on the Mac, with the optical in to the M22B. Is this to be expected?


 
 i am sorry but i am not an expert here.  However IMHO what sounds good is good.  I know it is trivial.
 I have decided to use the pc for convenience. I have ripped my cd to a NAS and read from it with the pc.
 I think i have reached an acceptable sound.   I have no pretension of high end ... for now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  maybe in the future when i will have more spare time to dedicate. 
  


> Second, I will pick up a Melodious in the next couple of days. I am not technically adept enough to mod at your level, is there anybody out there doing the mods commercially?
> Third, which connection do you prefer, AES/EBU, coaxil, or optical?
> I really appreciate your advice!


 
  
 I am using mostly AES connection but i understand both the other can work ok.
 It depends on what kind of input your dac accepts.  But AES would be my 1st choice.  And is what the pros use i guess.
 I have to pro dacs, an Apogee and a Benchmark, and both have AES input.
 But i have also another nice dac from Hegel audio to try out ... the HD10 ... with that i have to use another connection.
  
 http://www.stereomojo.com/Hegel%20HD10%20DAC%20review.htm/HegelHD10DACreview.htm
  

 Bye,
 gino


----------



## Sergey83149

To me the updated version with radiators on the chip came.
 220uF/25V the regulator of the power a covering is replaced with ELNA.
 Only 2sht. gold TXCO (


----------



## Sergey83149

I wonder how much better?
 http://s019.radikal.ru/i640/1508/22/5be10a8afa49.jpg


----------



## Sergey83149

The photo will be later.


----------



## ginetto61

sergey83149 said:


> To me the updated version with radiators on the chip came.
> 220uF/25V the regulator of the power a covering is replaced with ELNA.


 
  
 Hi which Elna ? i mean series and values.
  


> Only 2sht. gold TXCO (


 
 I do not understand.  Could you explain please?
  


> The photo will be later.


 
 thanks,  gino


----------



## Sergey83149

I can send the photo to you to mail. On the site it is impossible to load the photo.
 Instead of three, on a payment 2. The third without cover.


----------



## Sergey83149

I apologize for my English.


----------



## rb2013

wildcatsare1 said:


> Gino, RB2013;
> 
> I am absolutely loving my Monarchy M22B and had a couple questions for you.
> 
> ...


 
 Nice unit! - I am a Tube DAC guy though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  


abartels said:


> Hi All,
> 
> FYI:
> 
> ...


----------



## rb2013

sergey83149 said:


> To me the updated version with radiators on the chip came.
> 220uF/25V the regulator of the power a covering is replaced with ELNA.
> Only 2sht. gold TXCO (


 

 I guess there must have been overheating issue with the linear regulator and XMOS chip.  I take the covers off of mine - should help air circulation.
  
 I think the TXCO gold for the USB was replace with a XCO (like the Gustard has) - TXCO only for the timing clocks.  Maybe cheaper?  Or more stable.


----------



## Sergey83149

The seller asked the producer who told it this improved version. We will listen in 150 hours of warming up.


----------



## Sergey83149

Even now from a box sounds perfectly.


----------



## Sergey83149

http://s015.radikal.ru/i331/1508/45/a0e291cd97d4.jpg


----------



## Miracle1980

I am using the Melodious MX-U8 from more than one month and I am very satisfied with the sound. Mine it's not modded and it sounds fantastically. Highly recommended.


----------



## Sergey83149

miracle1980 said:


> I am using the Melodious MX-U8 from more than one month and I am very satisfied with the sound. Mine it's not modded and it sounds fantastically. Highly recommended.


 
 +1 . I had Gustard. MX-U8 is better, even without modernization.


----------



## Wildcatsare1

sergey83149 said:


> +1 . I had Gustard. MX-U8 is better, even without modernization.




Sergey, are you saying the Gustard is better than the Melodious?


----------



## Sergey83149

No. On the contrary MX-U8 is better (imho).


----------



## Wildcatsare1

Thanks Sergey, I appreciate your advice!


----------



## Sergey83149

http://s013.radikal.ru/i324/1508/d8/2ef0d4644914.jpg
 http://s017.radikal.ru/i428/1508/af/2393a058ff74.jpg
 http://s018.radikal.ru/i527/1508/63/7e2d701d5243.jpg
 http://s55.radikal.ru/i149/1508/90/b3e79ca648d8.jpg


----------



## rb2013

sergey83149 said:


> No. On the contrary MX-U8 is better (imho).


 

 Sergey - did you replace the 16V 220uf cap after the LT1963?  It looks like a much better Elna then the one in Gino's unit or mine.


----------



## Sergey83149

Цитата: 





> Сообщение от *rb2013* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Сергей - ты заменить 220uF колпачок 16V после LT1963? Это выглядит как гораздо лучше Elna затем один в блоке или шахты Джино.


 
 No, I changed nothing. Such option came from the seller with EBAY. ELNA is better?


----------



## abartels

Hi guys,
  
  
 The AudioByte Hydra-Z has arrived today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I received it without the ZPM external power supply, but I made a connectioncable and connected it to my 15600 mAh Lion usb powersupply.
  
  
 It's playing now for a few hours. I had some problems with installing drivers. I couldn't get it working with modified XMOS drivers, system did recognize Hydra-Z
 bnut I couldn't play any music at any setting so I had to use the drivers from their website, which are dated back to 2013 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I also had to find the best settings within JPlay with KS (Kernel Streaming), there aren't many settings I can use with the standard drivers.
 This made comparison a little bit more complicated, I had to set my MX-U8 to the same (lower SQ) settings before comparing.
  
 At first I listened to Hydra-Z without external power supply. It didn't sound bad at all, but low frequencies were VERY lame sounding, not tight at all.
 So I decided to solder a cable to connect an external powersupply. This made u huge difference, lows were much tighter and overall SQ was better.
  
  
*First listening impressions (with my own external, heavy battery supply, NOT with ZPM) after a few hours:*
  
 The AudioByte Hydra-Z is a very good usb interface.
  
 Out of the box with almost no burn-in time (which it probably needs less because of the absence of power supply / big electrolytic capacitors),
 it sounds quite good. I didn't expect this in comparison with my heavily modded MX-U8.
  
 The first thing I noticed was the exact same tonal balance / timbre of voices etc.
  
 For the moment the MX-U8 is still superior to Hydra-Z, MX-U8 has more rest, black around voices and instruments, low level details, no listening fatigue, bigger and deeper soundstage, much tighter bass.
  
 But, don't forget all the work I had to carry out on my MX-U8 to get it at it's present SQ level. Also don't forget my MX-U8 including modifications exceeds the $500 range,,,,
  
  
 I expect the Hydra-Z to become VERY close to MX-U8, but, there's still the driver problem. It's too old, and it's not possible to set low latency, thus in combination with JPlay
 I wouldn't recommend this device. Hope manufacturer will provide a newer driver soon. Also do not forget the performance it now delivers is WITH EXTERNAL SUPPLY.
  
 Maybe it sounds much better with ZPM (which I give a 5% chance in comparison with my usb lion supply), but in that case it will cost you about $1500
  
 Hydra-Z will playing constantly on my system to burn-in, final verdict will follow next Wednesday 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
  
 Cheers     
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## rb2013

sergey83149 said:


> No, I changed nothing. Such option came from the seller with EBAY. ELNA is better?


 

 Thanks! So it looks like a factory upgrade -
  
 Did you use this seller on Ebay?
 om/itm/Melodious-MX-U8-32Bit-384KHz-DSD-XMOS-USB-Digital-Audio-Interface-110v-230v-/111646348657?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19fea41571


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> The AudioByte Hydra-Z has arrived today
> ...


 

 Nice Alex!  Thanks for going through the hassle to compare.
  
 It looks very promising - wonder what a lower cost 5VDC linear PS like the TeraDac would sound like.
  
 The ZPM is really sota with ultra high capacity and speed capacitors.
  
 Maybe LiPo is the way to go.


----------



## Sergey83149

rb2013 said:


> Thanks! So it looks like a factory upgrade -
> 
> Did you use this seller on Ebay?
> om/itm/Melodious-MX-U8-32Bit-384KHz-DSD-XMOS-USB-Digital-Audio-Interface-110v-230v-/111646348657?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19fea41571


 
 Yes. This seller (Wsz0304).


----------



## rb2013

sergey83149 said:


> Yes. This seller (Wsz0304).


 

 Thanks!


----------



## m0reilly

alex, please remove 'jplay' for the time being. not sure driver issue on your end, as it installed without issue here (win 10 pro). i'm using wasapi event atm. psu is a teradak unit ($140 us), using the coax  out to the lite dac60 r2r. i welcome the bass over the very very anemic saber results (after going all saber, i bought two 18" subs in the hopes of reclaiming the bottom end. the hydra is a godsend to me). you will not have the 'in face' results as you would via saber chip, and this can be a somewhat 'shock' coming  from an xmos bridge/dac. i don't think i'll be going back to a saber bridge offering after trying the hydra z, but again, this is a matter of personal taste. enjoy!


----------



## MINORISUKE

sergey83149 said:


> Yes. This seller (Wsz0304).


 
 This is the eBay shop of Shenzhen Audio.
 Except Taobao shop directly operated by Melodious (in Chinese only), Shenzhen Audio is the unique seller of MX-U8 as of today.
 I got information early in June that a factory modification was going to take place, including clock exchange (one of the three) and adding heat sinks.


----------



## Sergey83149

minorisuke said:


> This is the eBay shop of Shenzhen Audio.
> Except Taobao shop directly operated by Melodious (in Chinese only), Shenzhen Audio is the unique seller of MX-U8 as of today.
> I got information early in June that a factory modification was going to take place, including clock exchange (one of the three) and adding heat sinks.


 
 Why they didn't establish gold cover for clock ? Interestingly this replacement is better? Here a photo without covering.
 http://s55.radikal.ru/i149/1508/90/b3e79ca648d8.jpg
 ​Still they replaced the USB plug on gold.​


----------



## abartels

m0reilly said:


> alex, please remove 'jplay' for the time being. not sure driver issue on your end, as it installed without issue here (win 10 pro). i'm using wasapi event atm. psu is a teradak unit ($140 us), using the coax  out to the lite dac60 r2r. i welcome the bass over the very very anemic saber results (after going all saber, i bought two 18" subs in the hopes of reclaiming the bottom end. the hydra is a godsend to me). you will not have the 'in face' results as you would via saber chip, and this can be a somewhat 'shock' coming  from an xmos bridge/dac. i don't think i'll be going back to a saber bridge offering after trying the hydra z, but again, this is a matter of personal taste. enjoy!


 
  
 Hi m0reilly,
  
 With standard drivers I didn't suffer install problems at all, it worked immediately with Kernel Streaming (sounds best for me).
 Not sure what you mean with "Saber bridge". You mean, you had a ESS Sabre dac before? I am comparing USB interfaces, not DAC's 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Today, after 1 day burn-in, Hydra-Z comes a bit closer to MX-U8, but still listening fatigue. Needs another 6 days to burn-in.
  
 Cheers  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## abartels

sergey83149 said:


> Yes. This seller (Wsz0304).


 
  
 WSZ0304 is a trustfull seller. I did buy several dac's from him in the past. He's always very helpfull.


----------



## rb2013

minorisuke said:


> This is the eBay shop of Shenzhen Audio.
> Except Taobao shop directly operated by Melodious (in Chinese only), Shenzhen Audio is the unique seller of MX-U8 as of today.
> I got information early in June that a factory modification was going to take place, including clock exchange (one of the three) and adding heat sinks.


 
  
 It looks like Sergey's unit also has a bigger, better 'Black' Elna cap after the LT1963.  Another improvement.  I crafted a make shift heat sink for my one unit last night and it worked pretty good - played for 5 hrs before unlocking.  Even though the weather here in Seattle has been blistering hot and humid - and we don't have AC.  I wonder if upgraded boards are available.  I contacted Shenzen awhile ago about getting one and never heard back.
  
 I need some thicker thermal paste, the Zalman is to thin - so the heat sink stays on the top of the chip.  Will do another heat sink for the XMOS processor.


abartels said:


> WSZ0304 is a trustfull seller. I did buy several dac's from him in the past. He's always very helpfull.


 
 Just wondering if I buy another one from him - I will get the improved version.  The pictures on the Ebay ad - still show the version w/o heat sinks, three TXCO gold clocks, old AC, old cap, etc...


----------



## rb2013

m0reilly said:


> alex, please remove 'jplay' for the time being. not sure driver issue on your end, as it installed without issue here (win 10 pro). i'm using wasapi event atm. psu is a teradak unit ($140 us), using the coax  out to the lite dac60 r2r. i welcome the bass over the very very anemic saber results (after going all saber, i bought two 18" subs in the hopes of reclaiming the bottom end. the hydra is a godsend to me). you will not have the 'in face' results as you would via saber chip, and this can be a somewhat 'shock' coming  from an xmos bridge/dac. i don't think i'll be going back to a saber bridge offering after trying the hydra z, but again, this is a matter of personal taste. enjoy!


 

 Maybe it's the R2R PCM1704 dac that's sounding so good - with those '74 Russian tubes...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I never liked the 'thin' etchy sounding Sabre DAC sound.
  
 Good to hear you like the Hydra Z with the TeraDAK linear PS.


----------



## m0reilly

abartels said:


> Hi m0reilly,
> 
> With standard drivers I didn't suffer install problems at all, it worked immediately with Kernel Streaming (sounds best for me).
> Not sure what you mean with "Saber bridge". You mean, you had a ESS Sabre dac before? I am comparing USB interfaces, not DAC's
> ...


 

 sorry, meant xmos


----------



## Sergey83149

rb2013 said:


> I crafted a make shift heat sink for my one unit last night and it worked pretty good - played for 5 hrs before unlocking.




Rb2013 Your MX-U8 loses communication is cut off?


----------



## rb2013

sergey83149 said:


> Rb2013 Your MX-U8 loses communication is cut off?


 

 It loses the PC lock, the driver seems to not fuction (all of them KS, ASIO, etc...). I have to close and reopen Foobar to get the connection reest.
  
 I rigged a new heat sink and it's working well.  Except we have been getting crazy extreme lightning storms over our house the last few days - yesterday was esp bad.  I turn off and unplug every thing when they come.
  
 Before the addition of the heat sinks it was unlocking every other song with the hot weather.
  

  
 Picking up an Audio Breeze today - they said no go on upgrading the clocks to Crysteks.  Will have to do that myself - Ugg.  When will Cyrstek make a DIP through the hole version!


----------



## Jerryfan

Has melodious fixed their quality control issues?


----------



## abartels

abartels said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> The AudioByte Hydra-Z has arrived today
> ...


 
  
  
*UPDATE AFTER 2 DAYS OF BURN-IN:*
  
 Hydra-Z is playing now for two days continuously. It has gained in SQ.
 Listening fatigue almost has gone, and, to be honest, there's VERY LITTLE difference between Hydra-Z and my MX-U8.
 MX-U8 still has a little more low level detail and more low-end control with a little more pressure in sub-lows.
  
 Only problem I have with Hydra-Z are the drivers, those are very old (2 years) and there's no possibility to set low buffers and low latency.
 I can't use my preferred settings within JPlay 6.2 which are: Ultrastream / 700Hz / 0.01s / Hibernate ON I'm now on 40Hz / 2s which sounds less open in my system.
  
 For now it looks like Hydra-Z (with external battery pack) sounds exact like my MX-U8. Never experienced something like this before,
 no tonal differences, no difference in soundstage, no difference in silence and black around voices and instruments, no difference in dynamics,
 just a little difference in low level detail and tightness/pressure sub-low (=<30Hz)
  
 I also tried different external battery psu's, the 15600mAh pack sounds little bit better than 5400mAh model.
  
 Will wait till Wednesday for final verdict, but I expect I will end up with two devices who do sound exact the same 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 If one is not used to DIY solderwork, and handcraftmenship in general, AudioByte Hydra-Z is a killer!
 Until now I still do prefer my modded MX-U8 because of driver compatibility, and the easy of updating them.
  
  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Alex


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> *UPDATE AFTER 2 DAYS OF BURN-IN:*
> 
> Hydra-Z is playing now for two days continuously. It has gained in SQ.
> Listening fatigue almost has gone, and, to be honest, there's VERY LITTLE difference between Hydra-Z and my MX-U8.
> ...


 

 Thanks Alex!  Wonder what the difference might be with the ZPM?  or even the TeraDac?
  
 You may have just reached the maximum potential for this part of the audio chain.  Hopefully a drive update soon from Hydra.
  
 BTW Still way cheaper then the Berkerly


----------



## abartels

Hi Bob,
  
 Yes, it's definitely a lot cheaper than Hydra-Z with ZPM, or Berkely.
  
 SQ definitely would be better with ZPM since this unit has a very low output impedance.
  
 They take use of 2 Maxwell Ultracaps BCAP0310 (310 Farad, 1 Farad = 1.000.000uF) and put them in series because they are 2.7V only.
 BCAP0310 has a very low impedance, 2.2mOhm resulting in a total of 4.4mOhm which is VERY low.
  
 Btw, Audiobyte speaks of 2x 310 Farad ultracaps, but they don't tell that this results in 155 Farad (155.000.000 uF )
 But, that should be enough 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  

  
 Since 310 Farad seems shortcircuit to transformer and bridgerectifier they limited the charging current.
 Firsttime charging can take upto 4 hours.
  
  
 How ZPM would influence SQ is just a guess, but for a 5V psu it's rather costly ( €540 )
  
 Maybe I'm gonna fiddle around with a few of those BCAP0310, they are about €12,50 each.
  
  
 Cheers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Alex


----------



## Sergey83149

rb2013 said:


> It loses the PC lock, the driver seems to not fuction (all of them KS, ASIO, etc...). I have to close and reopen Foobar to get the connection reest.
> 
> I rigged a new heat sink and it's working well.  Except we have been getting crazy extreme lightning storms over our house the last few days - yesterday was esp bad.  I turn off and unplug every thing when they come.
> 
> ...



I played three days without a break from the IMAC. All perfectly. Sound every day better. 
3M, which is the change in sound?


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> Yes, it's definitely a lot cheaper than Hydra-Z with ZPM, or Berkely.
> 
> ...


 

 If you could do DIY ZPM project that would be awesome.  I guess the almost instanteous current supplied by the ultra caps may just increase the dynamics - esp the micro kind.


----------



## rb2013

sergey83149 said:


> I played three days without a break from the IMAC. All perfectly. Sound every day better.


 

 Funny on second system the MX-U8 will occasionally send the DAC into oscillating lock and unlock - there is a relay in my R2R DAC that clicks each time it locks or changes clock settings.  It'll just click, click, click away.  A tap on the top of my DAC makes it go away!  I think I have a ghost in this house. Happens about once a day.  Haven't tried the heat sinks on it yet - they're a pain to cut from the larger CPU heat sink I'm using.


----------



## Sergey83149

rb2013 said:


> Funny on second system the MX-U8 will occasionally send the DAC into oscillating lock and unlock - there is a relay in my R2R DAC that clicks each time it locks or changes clock settings.  It'll just click, click, click away.  A tap on the top of my DAC makes it go away!  I think I have a ghost in this house. Happens about once a day.  Haven't tried the heat sinks on it yet - they're a pain to cut from the larger CPU heat sink I'm using.



Loss of communication with the PC chip from heating occurs in all or only you?
It is necessary to get rid of a ghost.:eek::wink_face:


----------



## rb2013

sergey83149 said:


> Loss of communication with the PC chip from heating occurs in all or only you?
> It is necessary to get rid of a ghost.


 

 Well yesterday here it cooled down and the 1st system did not unlock playing all night with the heat sink.  These linear regulator generate tremendous heat and have a thermal cut off internal switch.  Never had a single unlock with months of using the Gustards in both systems - and the Musiland 3.0 USD as well.  I run my systems 24/7, as I have class A amps that sound best with a days warm up.
  
 As I told Alex - I doubt Melodius designers would have added the heat sinks (the original unit didn't have them), if there was not a problem with overheating.


----------



## Wildcatsare1

Hey Guys, just started a new thread for those interested in vintage or current R2R DACs, hope to read your thoughts there!
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/777597/vintage-current-r2r-dac-owners-discussion-insight-and-review-thread


----------



## Benny-x

rb2013 said:


> If you could do DIY ZPM project that would be awesome.  I guess the almost instanteous current supplied by the ultra caps may just increase the dynamics - esp the micro kind.


 
 Seconded!
  
 I've had my eyes on those ultra capacitors since I read about them being used in the LIO (by Vinnie, the owner of Redwine Audio). Unfortunately I don't have the confidence in fiddling with them to try, though. If someone more skilled were to take the lead, it'd be really amazing.


----------



## abartels

benny-x said:


> Seconded!
> 
> I've had my eyes on those ultra capacitors since I read about them being used in the LIO (by Vinnie, the owner of Redwine Audio). Unfortunately I don't have the confidence in fiddling with them to try, though. If someone more skilled were to take the lead, it'd be really amazing.


 
  
 We will see


----------



## rb2013

wildcatsare1 said:


> Hey Guys, just started a new thread for those interested in vintage or current R2R DACs, hope to read your thoughts there!
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/777597/vintage-current-r2r-dac-owners-discussion-insight-and-review-thread


Nice ! Big fan see the general info and links on my 'PCM 1704 DAC MOD PROJECT' thread. http://www.head-fi.org/t/740362/lite-dac60-pcm1704-r2r-tubed-dac-mod-project


----------



## Wildcatsare1

rb2013 said:


> Nice ! Big fan see the general info and links on my 'PCM 1704 DAC MOD PROJECT' thread. http://www.head-fi.org/t/740362/lite-dac60-pcm1704-r2r-tubed-dac-mod-project




Hey Bob,

Subbed to your Thread and a link posted, thanks!


----------



## rb2013

wildcatsare1 said:


> Hey Bob,
> 
> Subbed to your Thread and a link posted, thanks!


 

 Great thanks!  Subbed to yours as well.  The Mother of Tone article does a great job of explaining the differences in DAC designs and the benefits of R2R.
  
 Cheers!


----------



## rurika

Hi, all.
Alex, I believe the Hydra uses Amanero combo (usb) not XMOS. That's why you can't use your modified's driver.
Those two chip have difference charistic sounds like you mentioned above.
The Hydra also catched my interest when I was decided to buy a new usb-ddc but it uses Amanero so I chose Tanly instead.

Well, I prefer XMOS over Amanero in my system.


----------



## m0reilly

i see no mention of amanero in my drivers inf or on the audiobytes site. i haven't opened it up yet to check, but it is stated by audiobyte " ARM PROCESSING All USB audio transactions are made through a powerful ARM3 processor. Therefore Hydra Z supports any sample rate available (384k PCM, DSD128) while being future-proof for any extension."


----------



## m0reilly

yes, xmos drivers will _not _work with the hydra


----------



## abartels

Yes, I noticed this before, wasn't thinking clear when trying to install Hydra-Z with XMOS drivers LOL
  
 Hydra-Z is still burnin-in, listened today, it sounds almost as good as my MX-U8,,,,,,, waiting till Wednesday,,,,,
  
  
 Cheers   
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
 Alex


----------



## m0reilly




----------



## Sergey83149

Which processor MX-U8 XMOS? I have it closed radiator. On Gustard it's big, and MX-U8 small.


----------



## Miracle1980

As I know... It should be the same chipset XMOS... But let's wait for somebody more expert...


----------



## abartels

They are the same chip version


----------



## Sergey83149

abartels said:


> They are the same chip version



I have it under the radiator, and you what?


----------



## abartels

there isn't any newer xmos version, u12 and mx-u8 share the same xmos chip.


----------



## Sergey83149

I thought in the mx u8 another chip xmos, in any case its size is different from gustard


----------



## infinity88

The Melodious was delivered a couple days ago, and it's burning in. I like the no issues, plug and play feature while plugged into my mac. I didn't realize this also supported DSD, or that an spdif converter with DSD support was necessary for DSD, or is this just a marketing gimmick? I have a Yulong da8 on it's way from HK, which will play DSD, but I assumed any usb/spdif converter would be fine in the chain.
  
 I like the non intrusive led lights and the clean look or the MX. Sound is good but I won't get too critical until the other component arrives and both burn in a hundred hours or more.
  
 I went back through the thread but missed what was said about 5vdc powered usb cables. Does the stock MX need power from the usb given it already has a plug? If I remove pins 1 and 4 from the usb cable, will it help improve sound?


----------



## rb2013

infinity88 said:


> The Melodious was delivered a couple days ago, and it's burning in. I like the no issues, plug and play feature while plugged into my mac. I didn't realize this also supported DSD, or that an spdif converter with DSD support was necessary for DSD, or is this just a marketing gimmick? I have a Yulong da8 on it's way from HK, which will play DSD, but I assumed any usb/spdif converter would be fine in the chain.
> 
> I like the non intrusive led lights and the clean look or the MX. Sound is good but I won't get too critical until the other component arrives and both burn in a hundred hours or more.
> 
> I went back through the thread but missed what was said about 5vdc powered usb cables. Does the stock MX need power from the usb given it already has a plug? If I remove pins 1 and 4 from the usb cable, will it help improve sound?


 

 No - in fact just recieved my Forza Audio Works - FAW Copper Series Twin USB
 http://forzaaudioworks.com/en/product.php?id_product=46
  
 Sounds very nice - has a completely separate power line from the data line.  The MX-U8 works fine with just the data line and power left unplugged.
 Needs a little more run time - but so far sweet, detailed , dynamic, awesome bass depth.  Looks like my Stilnote is going on the block.


 I'm liking as much or even more then my 4 time more expensive Silnote Poseidon USB.  With the Gustard you have to get a linear ps or LiPo power feed to activate the internal switch.  But then it would be totally isolated from the PC's power and ground.


----------



## Sergey83149

rb2013 said:


> No - in fact just recieved my Forza Audio Works - FAW Copper Series Twin USB
> http://forzaaudioworks.com/en/product.php?id_product=46
> 
> Sounds very nice - has a completely separate power line from the data line.  The MX-U8 works fine with just the data line and power left unplugged.
> ...


 
 It wasn't tried? 
 http://vmcdjs.com/shop/cables/neooyaide-d-usb-class-s-purplewhite-1m/


----------



## Miracle1980

Few questions... 

1- If the Melodious is working fine without the usb power (only data is necessary) are we sure that it doesn't have already the 5v disconnected? (something like it's specified in the Audio-gd products...) 

2- Is there a way to try an usb cable with no the power (5v) without opening/cutting it? 

3- Do you know/think that using a cable without the power with the Melodious will provide better results? Even if the Melodious is supposed to be galvanic isolated? 

4- Why these kind of cables are not so "present" on the market then? 

Thanks


----------



## MINORISUKE

infinity88 said:


> .....
> I didn't realize this also supported DSD, or that an spdif converter with DSD support was necessary for DSD, or is this just a marketing gimmick? I have a Yulong da8 on it's way from HK, which will play DSD, but I assumed any usb/spdif converter would be fine in the chain.
> .....


 
 MX-U8 DOES play DSD.  See my previous post in this thread.
 Your DA8 cannot be connected, as it has no I2S/DSD input.


----------



## infinity88

minorisuke said:


> MX-U8 DOES play DSD.  See my previous post in this thread.
> Your DA8 cannot be connected, as it has no I2S/DSD input.




Well, if I decide that I prefer dsd over pcm, I guess there'll be another Melodious up for resale.


----------



## infinity88

rb2013 said:


> No - in fact just recieved my Forza Audio Works - FAW Copper Series Twin USB
> 
> Sounds very nice - has a completely separate power line from the data line.  The MX-U8 works fine with just the data line and power left unplugged.
> Needs a little more run time - but so far sweet, detailed , dynamic, awesome bass depth.  Looks like my Stilnote is going on the block.
> ...




Nice looking usb cable. If there was one for under $50 I'd bite but a $5 cord without a 5v pin should be enough for me.


----------



## MINORISUKE

infinity88 said:


> Well, if I decide that I prefer dsd over pcm, I guess there'll be another Melodious up for resale.


 
 Unlike Gustard DAC-X12 and its successor & newcomer DAC-X20, Yulong DA8 as well as DA8II seems not to accept DoP input through S/PDIF.  This means DSD can be played only via built-in USB input on DA8/DA8II.  Any external USB-DDC will not help.


----------



## rb2013

sergey83149 said:


> It wasn't tried?
> http://vmcdjs.com/shop/cables/neooyaide-d-usb-class-s-purplewhite-1m/


 
 Not that one - I did roll through 5 or 6 USB cables.  The best so far has been the Synergistic Research Tesla Tricon USB.  Bought used.  Still very expensive.  I'm hoping the Forza beats it.  Will A/B once I have a few hundred hours on it.


----------



## rb2013

miracle1980 said:


> Few questions...
> 
> 1- If the Melodious is working fine without the usb power (only data is necessary) are we sure that it doesn't have already the 5v disconnected? (something like it's specified in the Audio-gd products...)
> 
> ...


 

 See my post recently on the Forza Audio Works


----------



## rb2013

infinity88 said:


> Well, if I decide that I prefer dsd over pcm, I guess there'll be another Melodious up for resale.


 

 What you need is a new DAC like the X12 with I2S input.  Any way you cn always do DSD toPCM conversion in Foobar.
  
 Most DSD's you buy where mastered in PCM - DSD is almost impossible to work with in mastering.  Some where recorded in DSD converted to PCM for mastering then reconverted to DSD for disc.
  
 DSD>PCM>DSD>PCM Why not just go straight PCM?
  
 EDIT - FYI 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 http://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/dsd-mastering.218022/


> > _ DSD mastering for a CD means that it was sourced from a DSD master. The actual CD audio has been downconverted from DSD to Lineair PCM (16 bit/44.1 kHz) to meet the Redbook standard for CDs. Recent MoFi gold discs are also DSD sourced.
> > _
> 
> 
> ​ ​ ​ This is not true at all. DSD mastering for a CD means that it was sourced from either an analouge master taper or quite possibly a PCM master file. Before the material was transferred to the CD master, there was a DSD mastering conversion involved. Typically the chain would go:​​ ​ analouge or PCM master/DSD/16bit 44.1 khz PCM.​


----------



## Miracle1980

rb2013 said:


> See my post recently on the Forza Audio Works




I read your post, that's why I asked those questions about the usb cable without 5v. I really don't want to buy another cable because mine is pretty decent.


----------



## Miracle1980

So I just finished to make a test with a cheap usb cable (printer cable). I tested with 2 songs. After the listening I cut the 5v and the ground wires and I re-listened again. Well no difference. Even my gf was not able to notice any difference at all. 
And my system is quite revealing, it's not an entry level one. 
So I think I will keep staying with my usb cable, without tweaks.


----------



## m0reilly

i've used electrical tape on the source end of the usb cable to prevent 5v + ground from continuing down the cable. works great, but some instances don't look to benefit from signal only cabling, even with a split cable and a linear psu.


----------



## infinity88

rb2013 said:


> What you need is a new DAC like the X12 with I2S input conversion in Foobar.
> 
> Most DSD's you buy where mastered in PCM
> 
> DSD>PCM>DSD>PCM Why not just go straight PCM?




Honesty, I haven't heard DSD, only people's opinions of it vs pcm. I hear the da8 can play DSD well through usb. I will probably be ok with the dac for now. I can use the melodious for anything pcm, and do a bit of an AB test to see what all the DSD hype is all about. What's your opinion of dsd rb?


----------



## abartels

abartels said:


> Yes, I noticed this before, wasn't thinking clear when trying to install Hydra-Z with XMOS drivers LOL
> 
> Hydra-Z is still burnin-in, listened today, it sounds almost as good as my MX-U8,,,,,,, waiting till Wednesday,,,,,
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi guys,
  
*Final verdict Audiobyte Hydra-Z:*
  
  
 Today Audiobyte Hydra-Z has had 7 days of burn-in time, about 165 hours of continuous playing.
 Last week I did several comparissons with my modified MX-U8, MX-U8 was ahead in SQ all the time.
 Today, at final verdict, I switched between Hydra-Z and MX-8 a lot of times, maybe 20 or so.
  
 There absolutely isn't any difference between those two marvellous usb interfaces!
 Last Monday MX-U8 was still ahead, it had more silence inbetween imaging, yesterday, after six
 days of burn-in time there wasn't any difference noticable, and today it's still 100% identical.
 So, one can say Hydra-Z won't improve anymore, and if it would improve it would be a marginal difference.
  
 Hydra-Z is a VERY good sounding usb interface! Right out of the box it sounded good, but I noticed
 listening fatigue, less bass control, less openness and details. After a day or 2 it got more open, after
 4 to 5 days listening fatigue went away, and between 5 and seven days it gained a little bit in resolution,
 detail and black around voices and instruments, it's more silent, just like my modded MX-U8.
  
 If I had to buy a very good usb interface, and wouldn't want to modify it, I definitely would buy Hydra-Z.
 It's the best sounded, out of the box, usb interface I've ever heard!
  
 Still there is one minor shortcoming, and that's the old drivers available at website Audiobyte for this device.
 It is working 100% with this driver, but compatibility with JPlay isn't that great at all.
  
 Today I will email sales representative Audiobyte in The Netherlands, (www.knooppuntaudio.nl) to return the Hydra-Z
  
  
 It was very nice from audiobyte in The Netherlands they let me compare Hydra-Z with my modded MX-U8.
 If one would be interested in a Hydra-Z I would recommend them with confidence!!
  
  
 Cheers       
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
  
 Alex


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> *Final verdict Audiobyte Hydra-Z:*
> 
> ...


 

 Nice Alex!   I can only imagine it with the ZPM power supply.  Thanks for taking the time to do the comparison.


----------



## abartels

I don't know if ZPM would be better, it has at least 44mOhm internal resistance, my "LiPO" has less then 25mOhm, but one could try,,,
 To be honest, I don't think it will gain in SQ.
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> I don't know if ZPM would be better, it has at least 44mOhm internal resistance, my "LiPO" has less then 25mOhm, but one could try,,,
> To be honest, I don't think it will gain in SQ.
> 
> Regards,
> ...


 

 How much did your LiPO cost to build?  5V right?  How many mAmps?


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> How much did your LiPO cost to build?  5V right?  How many mAmps?


 
i just bought it for around €60, it’s with Panasonic cells, 6 of them, in total 16500 mAh ( 16Ah ) Panasonic cells have an impedance  around 25 mOhm, 50 mOhm (2 cells in series) devided by 3 (3 sets in parallel) is 16,6 mOhm,
but to be safe, let’s say it’s 25 mOhm.


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> i just bought it for around €60, it’s with Panasonic cells, 6 of them, in total 16500 mAh ( 16Ah ) Panasonic cells have an impedance  around 25 mOhm, 50 mOhm (2 cells in series) devided by 3 (3 sets in parallel) is 16,6 mOhm,
> but to be safe, let’s say it’s 25 mOhm.


 

 Any link - possibly ebay?  All I'm finding for 5V are 500mAh
  
 Thanks


----------



## rb2013

Also looking at this one
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/261845565624?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  
 And some thing like this
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/301688490460?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## Sergey83149

abartels said:


> Originally Posted by *rb2013* /img/forum/go_quote.gif


 

```
[color=rgb(33, 33, 33)] I do not want to be intrusive. I'm interested in what model XMOS chip installed in the MX - U8, and that GUstard?[/color]
```


----------



## rb2013

sergey83149 said:


> ```
> [color=rgb(33, 33, 33)] I do not want to be intrusive. I'm interested in what model XMOS chip installed in the MX - U8, and that GUstard?[/color]
> ```


 

 Well here are the pictures for each:
 U12


 MX-U8


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> Any link - possibly ebay?  All I'm finding for 5V are 500mAh
> 
> Thanks


 
 Sorry, my mistake, i sue Lithium Ion USB powerpack, it's the easiest way and sounds very good.
 Lithium Polymer has lower internal resistance, but you have to use several in parallel to get the needed amperage and internal resistance


----------



## Sergey83149

Thanks, but photos can not make out what is written.


----------



## rb2013

sergey83149 said:


> Thanks, but photos can not make out what is written.


 
 They are both the same 8U6C5 chips - just different production runs.


----------



## Sergey83149

Thank you !!!


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Sorry, my mistake, i sue Lithium Ion USB powerpack, it's the easiest way and sounds very good.
> Lithium Polymer has lower internal resistance, but you have to use several in parallel to get the needed amperage and internal resistance


 
 Oh thanks - yes I found this one - just need to devise a cable from USB to dc socket for input
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/XIAOMI-16000mAh-External-Power-Bank-Li-ion-Battery-Charger-5V-3-6A-100-Genuine-/131545309954?has


----------



## rb2013

This might do it  - which plug polarity did you use?  Thanks for the help!
  
  
 http://www.amazon.com/DMtse-Generic-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B00304DZ7I


----------



## MINORISUKE

New I2S pin assignment ver1.6 (2015/06/30):
 1: SDATA 3: LRCK 5: SCLK 7: MCLK 2, 4, 6, 8: GND


----------



## rb2013

Hydra Z on the way! 
  
 I bought a 16,000 mAh Li ion battery to power the unit -should have plenty of juice and are very cheap (and can always use to back up my phone), if the sound pans out, I will but another and have one always on the charge.
  
Capacity 16000mAh
Color: Silver
Battery Type: 18650
Input: 5V 2A
Output: 5V 2.1A*2  MAX 3.6A
  
I will get a cable to connect the power from the battery and will also try this Forza FAW Copper Series split cable I just received.  Seperate data and power USB leads.
 http://forzaaudioworks.com/en/product.php?id_product=46
  
  
Now I'll be able to do a head to head shootout with the Gustard U12 (upgraded caps), Melodious MX-U8 (upgraded caps), Audio Breeze (upgraded caps), Hydra Z with wall wart or Li ion power.  Fun!!


----------



## infinity88

Can't play 24 bit 192 Khz with MX-U8. It comes out statical, very quiet with mainly static noise from the right side only. All frequencies below 192 play perfectly. I think there's something wrong with the converter itself because I get the same result with two separate dacs and when I go into the dac with a usb input, using the same usb cord, it works fine. Can someone confirm I haven't made an error in my troubleshooting before I send back the Melodious?


----------



## rb2013

infinity88 said:


> Can't play 24 bit 192 Khz with MX-U8. It comes out statical, very quiet with mainly static noise from the right side only. All frequencies below 192 play perfectly. I think there's something wrong with the converter itself because I get the same result with two separate dacs and when I go into the dac with a usb input, using the same usb cord, it works fine. Can someone confirm I haven't made an error in my troubleshooting before I send back the Melodious?


 

 Sounds like it's a bad unit.  You did the right diagnosis routine.


----------



## hgpsemaj

Mr. Liu of Melodious Audio claimed that the I2S interface pin definitions of Version 1.6 is as follow:
  
  

  
  
 Regards,


----------



## motberg

infinity88 said:


> Can't play 24 bit 192 Khz with MX-U8. It comes out statical, very quiet with mainly static noise from the right side only. All frequencies below 192 play perfectly. I think there's something wrong with the converter itself because I get the same result with two separate dacs and when I go into the dac with a usb input, using the same usb cord, it works fine. Can someone confirm I haven't made an error in my troubleshooting before I send back the Melodious?


 

 I would try a different playback software also and use the MX-U8 original drivers...
 I am not an expert, but I would think possible to have some type of driver conflict if you have 2 DAC drivers and the MX-U8 driver all active on the same computer...


----------



## vvolant

hi all
  
  i recently purchased a melodious mx u8 interface and have trouble installing the drivers. i have downloaded the thesycon drivers package. When runnig the setup program, the installation software keeps asking me to plug in the USB device, whereas it is already plugged in. I tried to unplug/replug, also tried to change the USB port, it does not improve. I am running windows XP. Any idea?
  
 Please help!!!!!!!


----------



## rb2013

vvolant said:


> hi all
> 
> i recently purchased a melodious mx u8 interface and have trouble installing the drivers. i have downloaded the thesycon drivers package. When runnig the setup program, the installation software keeps asking me to plug in the USB device, whereas it is already plugged in. I tried to unplug/replug, also tried to change the USB port, it does not improve. I am running windows XP. Any idea?
> 
> Please help!!!!!!!


 

 Ok I have had the same issue.  You need the special driver package from Melodious - it has the controller handshake. First turn off the device, then unplug the USB.  Now uninstall the drivers. reboot.  Now reinstall the Melodious drivers - once prompted during the install - plug the USB back in and turn on the U8.  Hit 'next' it will search for the U8 - once found will prompt you to proceed.
  
 Good luck!


----------



## vvolant

thank you very much. I found the specific drivers there: http://pan.baidu.com/s/1kTrF9nL
 Not so easy to download as the page is in chinese but I managed to do it.
  
 The install procedure works properly and the melodious unit works very well: very soft yet detailed sound, impressive!
 The drivers control panel is very limited, it does not allows to play with any parameter.
  
 The provided asio drivers for foobar made foobar crash. However the standard foobar asio drivers that you can find on the net work properly with the MX-U8
  
 Thanks again, I can know enjoy the music!


----------



## rb2013

vvolant said:


> thank you very much. I found the specific drivers there: http://pan.baidu.com/s/1kTrF9nL
> Not so easy to download as the page is in chinese but I managed to do it.
> 
> The install procedure works properly and the melodious unit works very well: very soft yet detailed sound, impressive!
> ...


 

 See the Gustard U12 thread for links to the full control panel drivers (very early pages).  Also Oppo and M2Tech have the full control panel drivers with later builds.  Good Luck


----------



## vvolant

hi rb2013
  
 the gustard post is very interesting but quite long. Do you know on which page I can find the link to the latest drivers for the MX-U8?
 Another question: I see that you have brought DIY modifications to your U8. Could you tell which of those bring the more improvement?
 I would like to do the most simple of them (simple replacement of parts by better ones, no mofification in the circuit). is it worths to do it from your point of view?
 Thanks


----------



## rb2013

vvolant said:


> hi rb2013
> 
> the gustard post is very interesting but quite long. Do you know on which page I can find the link to the latest drivers for the MX-U8?
> Another question: I see that you have brought DIY modifications to your U8. Could you tell which of those bring the more improvement?
> ...


 

 I don't remember which pages - I only did the PS caps swap.  Yes it was worth it.  But warning LETHAL VOLTAGES!  Be sure you know what you are doing before opening the box.

 Good Luck!


----------



## vvolant

Ok
 I think I will do this swap also.
  
 The MX-U8 has replaced a JK Ciunas in my system. Here are my feelings about the difference between the 2 units.
 To me there is not a huge difference, they have the same king of sound presentation.
 The melodious has more weight in the lows and is a bit more punchy, which is good in my system (tube amp + verity fidelio speakers). The ciunas has the advantage in the precison of the highs, especially in the vocals: with the ciunas, an 's' is an 's' whereas with the melodious it is rather a double 'ss'
 The melodious is also better in microdynamics, but the biggest adavantage of the melodious to my mind is that it is very relaxed and effortless.
 Add to that that it has several possible output and that it costs less, and it makes it the winner against je JK interface.
 Unfortunately It is a chinese equipment, I would prefer buy european.... but sound is first priority....


----------



## rb2013

vvolant said:


> Ok
> I think I will do this swap also.
> 
> The MX-U8 has replaced a JK Ciunas in my system. Here are my feelings about the difference between the 2 units.
> ...


 

 Interesting -the Mx-U8 needs a 100-150 hrs run time to sound best.  Those clocks and caps need to be burnt in. 
 and it will sound better after the cap swap.  I used Nichicon HWs and FGs and like them both.  Both better then the Panie FCs.


----------



## vvolant

good point if improved after burn in!
 I forgot to mention that I also noticed a better depth in the stereo image with the melodious.
 On the other hand I face a small issue with it: the MX-U8 seems very sentitive to interferences. I have some occasional big pops in the sound reproduction. I tried to move the unit while playing and got less or more pops according to where I put it. Unfortunaltely I cannot move it very far due to my short USB cable.


----------



## rb2013

vvolant said:


> good point if improved after burn in!
> I forgot to mention that I also noticed a better depth in the stereo image with the melodious.
> On the other hand I face a small issue with it: the MX-U8 seems very sentitive to interferences. I have some occasional big pops in the sound reproduction. I tried to move the unit while playing and got less or more pops according to where I put it. Unfortunaltely I cannot move it very far due to my short USB cable.


 

 I have one that does that too - moving it won't help.  try increasing your buffer size
  - I think this may be a design fault.


----------



## Miracle1980

Never head a single issue so far with my Melodious. Tese big pop sound more as software related issue (settings). 
 Have you tried to play/fix with the audio player settings?


----------



## rb2013

miracle1980 said:


> Never head a single issue so far with my Melodious. Tese big pop sound more as software related issue (settings).
> Have you tried to play/fix with the audio player settings?


 

 Well I have three MX-U8s - one has no pops/clicks, one has very intermittent pops/clicks, and one has not so intermittent pops and clicks.  All on the same computer with the same software and same settings.  But increasing the buffer size in foobar seems to help some.


----------



## rb2013

Also if you read this review - the reviewer had issues as well with his Melodious.  The newer versions have heat sinks on the LDO and XMOS chips - so it may be heat related.  On the unit with no pops I noticed the USB socket is different - gold colored.  On this unit it was unlocking periodically - I made some heat sinks and added them - that helped a lot.  Also tried three different USB cables - that didn't make much difference.
  
 I never had any issue with three different Gustard U12s, a whole host of other DDCs, and now for several days running a Hydra Z.
  
 http://stereotimes.com/post/yellowtec-puc2-lite-usb-converter/


----------



## MINORISUKE

rb2013 said:


> Also if you read this review - the reviewer had issues as well with his Melodious.  The newer versions have heat sinks on the LDO and XMOS chips - so it may be heat related.  On the unit with no pops I noticed the USB socket is different - gold colored.  On this unit it was unlocking periodically - I made some heat sinks and added them - that helped a lot.  Also tried three different USB cables - that didn't make much difference.
> 
> I never had any issue with three different Gustard U12s, a whole host of other DDCs, and now for several days running a Hydra Z.
> 
> http://stereotimes.com/post/yellowtec-puc2-lite-usb-converter/


 
 My MX-U8 is one of the earliest version (ver1.5) bought in April, which is the same as your first one.  It has no heat sink definitely.
 I have been powering it on since April and have no trouble at all.  Therefore, heat is not an issue at least in my case.
 What I have heard about the reason of adding these heat sinks is to ensure a longer product life.


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> Well I have three MX-U8s - one has no pops/clicks, one has very intermittent pops/clicks, and one has not so intermittent pops and clicks.  All on the same computer with the same software and same settings.  But increasing the buffer size in foobar seems to help some.


 
  
 Try setting LOWEST buffer and latency in xmosusbaudiocplapp, mine works ONLY flawless if I set these values to the lowest.


----------



## vvolant

I will try to play with buffer in foobar. I cannot modify the buffer size at the mx u8 level with the drivers i currently have.
I thought the pops could also be due to a weak solder inside the box. I will check when i exchange the caps.
Regarding the caps do you confirm 16v are enough?


----------



## rb2013

vvolant said:


> I will try to play with buffer in foobar. I cannot modify the buffer size at the mx u8 level with the drivers i currently have.
> I thought the pops could also be due to a weak solder inside the box. I will check when i exchange the caps.
> Regarding the caps do you confirm 16v are enough?


 

 Why would you put in 16V when the originals are 25V?  Do you know what you are doing!  I advise hiring a professional before you electrocute yourself.


----------



## Miracle1980

Mine is from April as well. So far no issues with drops. I hope that they will not appear in the future.
 I'm using it under Linux (Daphile), so no drivers required.


----------



## rb2013

minorisuke said:


> My MX-U8 is one of the earliest version (ver1.5) bought in April, which is the same as your first one.  It has no heat sink definitely.
> I have been powering it on since April and have no trouble at all.  Therefore, heat is not an issue at least in my case.
> What I have heard about the reason of adding these heat sinks is to ensure a longer product life.


 

 Well I have three - all with no heat sink - and they each have issues.  The first one came with a wire shorting out the PS!  Blew the fuse on the first power up!  Went through three fuses until I discovered a wire was soldered across the power leads!  Scary poor QC.
  
 Fortunately I was able to diagnose and fix myself. - Of course sold without warranty - even for DOA.
  
 Funny this is the one with no pops/clicks - but had the unlock issue until I added the heat sinks.
  
 I think what you heard was BS from this designer.  But I do applaud the SQ of his design.


----------



## Miracle1980

Just in case something it would happen in the future, do you have (i could not find) any official contact (email or website) in order to contact Melodious-Audio directly? The only contact that i have found are the ones from the online shops...


----------



## vvolant

I saw in the first pages of this post that abartels has replaced the 25v Panasonic by 16v nichicon. I don't know why. I imagined that it was a matter of free space but i am not sure.
Don't worry i am not going to electrocute myself. It is not the first time i solder some components though i am not a professionnal myself.


----------



## rb2013

miracle1980 said:


> Mine is from April as well. So far no issues with drops. I hope that they will not appear in the future.
> I'm using it under Linux (Daphile), so no drivers required.


 

 Lucky for you - this reviewer had issues as well.  I hope they can nail it down, as it's a great sounding DDC.  I can live with it's faults because it does sound so good - but right now the Hydra Z is just at a whole other level with high output Li Ion Battery.  Alex's MX-U8 is heavily modded and obviously way ahead of the stock unit and equal to the Hydra Z (his review).
  
 http://stereotimes.com/post/yellowtec-puc2-lite-usb-converter/
  
 My next music server will be linux based - would like to give it a try.


----------



## ccschua

given that MX-U8 uses LT 1963 as first stage and with 9 nos of ADP150 as second stage, this is quite impressive in terms of regulation. i.e. both with noise of 40uV and 9uV respectively.
  
 although there are other ULN regulators, I believe this is really bang for bucks. wonder if Tanly uses the same ADP150 regulators ?
  
 I lost track of the post NK2520sSD vs crystek cchd 957, how is crystek better ?


----------



## abartels

vvolant said:


> I saw in the first pages of this post that abartels has replaced the 25v Panasonic by 16v nichicon. I don't know why. I imagined that it was a matter of free space but i am not sure.
> Don't worry i am not going to electrocute myself. It is not the first time i solder some components though i am not a professionnal myself.


 
  
 Hi vvolant,
  
 I used 16V version not because they are cheaper, not because they are performing better, but indeed, yes, because of their size.
 If using 16V version you can choose same capacitance as original ones.
  
 The caps don't run hot, the voltage stays beneath 10V, so no problems regarding life expectancy.
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## ginetto61

ccschua said:


> given that _*MX-U8 uses LT 1963 as first stage and with 9 nos of ADP150 as second stage*_, this is quite impressive in terms of regulation. i.e. both with noise of 40uV and 9uV respectively....


 
  
 Hi and sorry but are you referring to the stock unit ?
  
 I have another general question.
 At the output of the LT1963 i see a 220 uF cap ... could it be beneficial to put a bigger and better quality one ?
 like a 1000 uF cap of the usual Nichicon FG type ?  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 this mod i could do even myself 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Thanks a lot and kind regards,  gino


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> given that MX-U8 uses LT 1963 as first stage and with 9 nos of ADP150 as second stage, this is quite impressive in terms of regulation. i.e. both with noise of 40uV and 9uV respectively.
> 
> although there are other ULN regulators, I believe this is really bang for bucks. wonder if Tanly uses the same ADP150 regulators ?
> 
> I lost track of the post NK2520sSD vs crystek cchd 957, how is crystek better ?


 
  
 We never compared Crystek's with NDK's, but, if reading my shootout between Hydra-Z and my modded MX-U8, they sound 100% identical,
 maybe one could conclude there's not much difference between them SQ wise.


----------



## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi and sorry but are you referring to the stock unit ?
> 
> I have another general question.
> At the output of the LT1963 i see a 220 uF cap ... could it be beneficial to put a bigger and better quality one ?
> ...


 
  
 Yes, stock unit has 1x LT1963 and 9x ADP150.
  
 You can try a better quality cap, but DON'T CHANGE TO BIGGER VALUE, you could FRY LT1963, and it will definitely running hot!


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Yes, stock unit has 1x LT1963 and 9x ADP150.


 
  
 Hi Alex and thanks a lot again for the very helpful information.
  


> You can try a better quality cap, but DON'T CHANGE TO BIGGER VALUE, you could FRY LT1963, and it will definitely running hot!


 
  
 This i do not understand ... why it should run hotter ?
 i can understand that at switch on the bigger cap will draw more current to charge
 but then after that the cap is charged ??? the current drawn by the circuit after the regulator will be the same as before.
 I believe in big caps a lot.  It is like having a huge power reservoir.
 And possibly places as close as possible to the chips.
 Thanks again,  gino


----------



## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Alex and thanks a lot again for the very helpful information.
> 
> 
> This i do not understand ... why it should run hotter ?
> ...


 
 couldn't find any max ratings in datasheet lt1963, just try it, but don't look strange if you fry it, there are many regulators who don't like big capacitive loads.
 And yes, at power-on it gets hot.
  
 LT1963 works stable (capacitor at output is to prevent LT1963 from oscillating) with 10uF output cap, and it supports esr from 50mOhm to 3mOhm


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> couldn't find any max ratings in datasheet lt1963, just try it, but don't look strange if you fry it, there are many regulators who don't like big capacitive loads.
> And yes, at power-on it gets hot.
> LT1963 works stable (capacitor at output is to prevent LT1963 from oscillating) with 10uF output cap, and it supports esr from 50mOhm to 3mOhm


 
 Thanks again Alex !
 Regards, gino


----------



## rb2013

ccschua said:


> I lost track of the post NK2520sSD vs crystek cchd 957, how is crystek better ?


 
 The comparison of the NDK and Crystek.
  
  

 The NDK ad on DIYinHK incorrectly states the NDK has "For easier comparsion(lower is better), we overlay the two phase noise graph at the same scale, under 25khz(human listenable range) nz2520sd(red line) is better, over 25khz(human unlistenable range) crystek 957 is better."
  
Unfortunately it seems these 'engineers' can't read a log scale.  The crossover in phase noise is at 2500Hz not 25000Hz.  2500Hz is definitely IN the human range of hearing. Ugg!
  
If you can't read a log chart I can't help you.


----------



## rb2013

ginetto61 said:


> Hi and sorry but are you referring to the stock unit ?
> 
> I have another general question.
> At the output of the LT1963 i see a 220 uF cap ... could it be beneficial to put a bigger and better quality one ?
> ...


 

 It looks like Melodius is now shipping their units with the same value cap but with a higher quality one.  And heat sinks on the LDO and XMOS
 From Sergey's stock unit:


----------



## rb2013

But speaking of NDK Crytals (which I do think are very good - certainly better then std XOs) DIYinHK is now using them on their USB to Spdif board:
 DXIO PRO3A - (they have an i2s board available as well).
  
 And ultra low noise regulator - not bad for $168.  I tried ordering one  but they are out of stock - they told me they had more coming.

  

  


> 1) Newest XMOS chip and uses 48MHz oscillator to asynchronous reclock usb audio data to SPDIF line, old XMOS uses only 13Mhz oscillator, over 4x better jitter rejection theoretically.
> 2) C0G AC coupling capacitor (All SPDIF output equipment requires AC coupling capacitor to avoid the isolated transformer saturated by DC bias component, if no grey color(C0G) capacitor is found in the PCB, that SPDIF equipment can be considered as low end)
> 3) Ultra low phase noise NDK NZ2520SD oscillator, thin film resistor and Murata isolated transformer (Be care the very common China made Pulse transformer in many 192khz SPDIF equipment is only capable of maximum 7Mbps(i.e. 96khz) according to the official datasheet.) Components are sourced from NDK and digikey directly (guarantee no fake product from China)
> 4) 1.0uVrms Ultralow noise linear power regulator (use of decade old LM317/1117 regulator is kidding for audiophile)
> ...


 
  
 http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/54-xmos-192khz-high-quality-usb-to-spdif-with-ultralow-noise-1uv-regulator-wauto-power-switch.html


----------



## ccschua

abartels said:


> We never compared Crystek's with NDK's, but, if reading my shootout between Hydra-Z and my modded MX-U8, they sound 100% identical,
> maybe one could conclude there's not much difference between them SQ wise.




I am finalizing order at mouser. Can u advise what other parts i can get at mouser, e, g,

Nichicon fine gokd 16V 220uF x 4 ? Etc.


----------



## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *rb2013* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> It looks like Melodius is now shipping their units with the same value cap but with a higher quality one.  And heat sinks on the LDO and XMOS


 
 Thanks a lot indeed for the very helpful information.
 I would like to see a version of the Melodious with external DC power supply like the Hydra Z.
 I like the solution a lot indeed.
 Regards, gino


----------



## ccschua

rb2013 said:


> It looks like Melodius is now shipping their units with the same value cap but with a higher quality one.  And heat sinks on the LDO and XMOS
> From Sergey's stock unit:




Agree. I open my unit and saw the better cap.
So the 4 blue caps are 2200uF 25V ?


----------



## rb2013

ccschua said:


> Agree. I open my unit and saw the better cap.
> So the 4 blue caps are 2200uF 25V ?


 

 Yes - does yours have the heat sinks?  If you could post a picture of your board that would be helpful.  Trying to stay on top of the design changes.


----------



## ccschua

I bought from ebay and paid with Canadian dollars.


----------



## ccschua

abartels said:


> Yes, stock unit has 1x LT1963 and 9x ADP150.
> 
> You can try a better quality cap, but DON'T CHANGE TO BIGGER VALUE, you could FRY LT1963, and it will definitely running hot!


 
  
 my mistake, it should be 8 ADP.
  
 I am finalizing the order. it should be 4 x 2200uF 16V nichicon fine gold. I cant go for 25V as it will be too high right ?


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> my mistake, it should be 8 ADP.
> 
> I am finalizing the order. it should be 4 x 2200uF 16V nichicon fine gold. I cant go for 25V as it will be too high right ?


 
  
 Yes, right, 25V will be too high.


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> I am finalizing order at mouser. Can u advise what other parts i can get at mouser, e, g,
> 
> Nichicon fine gokd 16V 220uF x 4 ? Etc.


 
  
 I also replaced the stock bridge rectifiers, but those are not easy to replace
  
 CREE C3D02060


----------



## ccschua

I just realised that the C3D02060F is no longer possible as its full bridge now as shown in my picture. So I will drop the CREE and go ahead with 4x nichicon fine gold and 2 x crystek. makes sense (any other thing to add, as shpping to my country costs more than the components alone)?   
note : added back the CREE as backup plan. dint like the U8 low cost power plan.


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> I just realised that the C3D02060F is no longer possible as its full bridge now as shown in my picture. So I will drop the CREE and go ahead with 4x nichicon fine gold and 2 x crystek. makes sense (any other thing to add, as shpping to my country costs more than the components alone)?


 
  
 My MX-U8 had same diode bridge as yours,,,,,,,,,,,,,, it's just a hassle to get them in, i didn't use other components besides the FG's, CREE's, NDK's, seperate double psu 0.8uV from diyinhk, 2 R-Core transformers, copper shielding, high quality rhodium plated red copper IEC320 socket, and tellurium copper rhodium plated rca, but from mouser or digikey just the caps and the diodes


----------



## ccschua

Plan on hold. If I were to add your MTO, it will cost around a new Tanly unit. 
  
 the NDK is supposed to have better phase noise below 25kHz. but its real challenge to solder that tiny XO in.
  
 wait for some report on the DIYINHK usb ddc.
  
 side note : Today I power up my PPA OCXO (motherboard ) and OCXO (USB 3) with twin tekdevice TPS7A4700 ULN LDO (2 unit in parallel) and it works. The music was more transparent. I strongly believe in ULN for digital. 
  
 ps. : I have started to read back post 1. sorry for all this repeat questions.


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Try setting LOWEST buffer and latency in xmosusbaudiocplapp, mine works ONLY flawless if I set these values to the lowest.


 

 A little info on buffer size and pops and clicks:


> Setting the correct buffer size is crucial to achieving optimum performance from your audio interface: if it's too small you'll suffer audio clicks and pops, while if it's too large you'll encounter audible delays when performing in real time.


 
 http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/jan05/articles/pcmusician.htm
  
 So the issue of smaller buffer is greater chance of clicks and pops (not less or lower chance) - but increased 'latency' - which means the time delay in the Audio player to respond your command changes.  The buffer, in this case FIFO buffer, acts a store of the digital bit flow.  It's fed from the hard drive or SSD drive, which can have uneven data flow.  To the CPU processor that converts the WAV,FLAC,MP3 data to the audio output data stream fed out of the USB (in this case) or to the OS codec (if the OS is doing the digital to analog conversion).  The buffer helps smooth out the data flow to the CPU processor.  The bigger the buffer less chance the CPU will run into a data feed interruption during the music file playback.  The latency comes from the fact the buffer has to empty before the audio program can respond.
  
 Just setting the record straight.


----------



## abartels

Normally i would agree, but my mxu8 only works stable at lowest settings in combination with jplay, strange but true, ,,


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Normally i would agree, but my mxu8 only works stable at lowest settings in combination with jplay, strange but true, ,,


 

 I had the opposite effect - but JPlay did help with all the DDCs including the Hydra Z to sound better.  Which does make sense since it's shutting down the other operations and giving priority to the audio player.
  
 The Hydra Z had very occasional 'hiccups' - not pops or clicks before I turned on Jplay 6.  After they were completely gone.  SQ improved.
  
 Here is the I2S version of the DIYinHK board with the NDKs
 http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/58-xmos-dsd-dxd-384khz-high-quality-usb-to-i2s-pcb.html
 with LED board
 http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/58-xmos-dsd-dxd-384khz-high-quality-usb-to-i2s-pcb.html#/xmos_option-xmos_and_led_pcb
  
 $65.95 with LED!  It doesn't come with the box as plug and play unit like the SPDIF DXIO Pro3 version - but that would be easy enough to make.  It also runs off the 3.3V DAC power line or would need a seperate regulated power board.

  
  


> XMOS DSD DXD 384kHz high-quality USB to I2S/DSD PCB (includes 2.54mm spacing 10x2row 30u gold plated header pins)
> This is the best USB to I2S/DSD PCB for audiophile Diyer to enjoy.
> Feature:
> 1) Newest XMOS chip and uses 48MHz oscillator to asynchronous reclock usb audio data to I2S line, old XMOS uses only 13Mhz oscillator, over 4x better jitter rejection theoretically.
> ...


 
 Just to correct as DIYinHK keeps repeating the same misinformation on the NDK vs Crystek clock comparison.
  
 THE NDK outperforms under 2,500Hz NOT 25,000Hz -they're misreading their own log chart! Still the NDK's are a bargain at the price.  Note the phase noise of the CCHD957 (blue line) is better then even the OXCO (green line) (and the NDK SD - red line) from 2.5kHz to 1mHz!


----------



## rb2013

Here is the link to the data sheet for the CCHD 957 at different clock frequencies available.  The one in the DIYinHK is for the 22.5792MHz clock.
 http://www.crystek.com/crystal/spec-sheets/clock/CCHD-957.pdf
  
 The other clock frequencies at 10Hz are:
 24.5762  -97.95
 45.1584 -100.07
 49.152 -98.48
  
 The 22.5792 they use as an overlay in the chart is the worst performing at 10hz at -97.38


----------



## abartels

Hi Bob,
  
 Not to be picky, but I posted the isolated version several times in this thread or the U12 thread, thought you would have noticed at least 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
  
 http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/69-isolated-xmos-dsd-dxd-384khz-high-quality-usb-to-i2sdsd-pcb-with-ultralow-noise-regulator.html
  
 It's completely isolated, can feed it with seperate powerlines, it's the best deal ever.
 I am planning to use this one when deciding which dac I'm gonna build.
  
 Pricing: USD 89,95  It's a steal!
  




  
Isolated XMOS DSD DXD 384kHz high-quality USB to I2S/DSD PCB with ultralow noise 6.5uV regulator and sampling rate LED indicator PCB(all smd are soldered, thru hole component are not soldered)

This is the best USB to Isolated I2S/DSD PCB for audiophile Diyer to enjoy, with the audio oscilaltor on the clean isolated side, it take the performance to the other world.

Features:

1) Newest XMOS chip and uses 48MHz oscillator to asynchronous reclock usb audio data to I2S line, old XMOS uses only 13Mhz oscillator, over 4x better jitter rejection theoretically.

2) Audio oscillators 22.5792Mhz and 24.576Mhz are located on the clean isolated side for highest performance.

3) 6.5uVrms Ultralow noise linear power regulator (use of decade old LM317/1117 regulator is kidding for audiophile)

4) Solid ground plane (a must for high speed digital circuit)

5) No Via in active circuit (via inductance always create jitter problem)

6) NDK NZ2520SD Ultralow phase noise oscillator are sourced from Japan directly (guarantee no fake product from China)
 According to the official datasheet, the phase noise is much better than the famous crystek 957 under 25khz(human listenable range)
 For easier comparsion(lower is better), we overlay the two phase noise graph at the same scale, under 25khz(human listenable range) nz2520sd(red line) is better, over 25khz(human unlistenable range) crystek 957 is better.

7) Gold plated USB connector (Molex, FCI, or other depends on stock)

8) Compact size 60mm x 40mm

No drivers needed for MAC OS version 10.6.4  and above
 No drivers installation required for Linux with UAC2 compliant kernel
 ASIO/KS/WASAPI/Direct Sound drivers for Windows XP to 8 (32 and 64 bit)
 Fully featured Thesycon driver package (without 30 min. periodic beeps)

Windows 7/8/Vista/XP Driver is available to download from our website
http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/9-driverdatasheetmanual

*USB2.0 is a must for 384kHz operation
 *Use a fresh install of windows and a dedicated USB port always avoid problem and run stable
 *The length of I2S connection to your DAC chip should be as short as possible for best result and below 10cm is recommended

Please check your DAC should support the following I2S signal specification to decode each sampling rate:


DATALRCKBCLKMCLK16/24bit44.1kHz2.8224Mhz22.5792Mhz16/24bit48kHz3.072Mhz24.576Mhz16/24bit88.2kHz5.6448Mhz22.5792Mhz16/24bit96kHz6.144Mhz24.576Mhz16/24bit176.4kHz11.2896Mhz22.5792Mhz16/24bit192kHz12.288Mhz24.576Mhz16/24bit352.8kHz22.5792Mhz22.5792Mhz16/24bit384kHz24.576Mhz24.576Mhz
  

 *DSD playback steps using foobar2000 in Microsoft Windows:*

1. Download and install the latest version of Foobar2000 from the official website

http://www.foobar2000.org/download

 2. Download and install the official ASIO output plug-in for Foobar2000

http://www.foobar2000.org/components/view/foo_out_asio

 3. Download the latest version of Super Audio CD Decoder plug-in for Foobar2000

http://sourceforge.net/projects/sacddecoder/files/foo_input_sacd/

 3a) unzip and double click to install ASIOProxyInstall-x.x.x.x.exe

 3b) Foobar > Files > Perferences > Components > Install > foo_input_sacd.fb2k-component

 4. Configure the output device: Foobar > Files > Perferences > Playback > Output > Device (ASIO: foo_dsd_asio)

 5. Configure the ASIO output: Foobar > Files > Perferences > Playback > Output > ASIO > foo_dsd_asio(double click)

 5a) ASIO Driver: DIYINHK DXIO USB Audio

 5b) DSD Playback Method: DoP Marker 0x05/0xFA

 6. Foobar > Files > Perferences > Tools > SACD > ASIO Driver Mode: DSD

More detail: http://www.google.com/search?q=foobar+dsd

*User guide:*

1) If you do not play DSD from the computer, the PCB will not output DSD signal. It's the same as our old PCB without DSD

2) The isolated clean side uses external 3.3V(>50mA) regulated power supply(20pisn header labelled 3.3vINx2 and GND), it is usually connected to the same 3.3v digital power DAC is using(warning: over-voltage or reverse-voltage can damage the xmos chip immediately, double check before power on)

3) For DSD playback, LRCK= DSD D1(Left channel), DATA= DSD D2(right channel), BCK = DSD Bit Clock

4) Pins labeled (SDA SCL RST MUTE) on CN1 are reserved for used with DAC firmware customization(i.e. software control different DAC with different firmware), it should be left unconnect. CN1 Pin labelled DSDon is isolated, it is high when playing DSD and low when playing PCM.

5) For DSD playback, windows volume mixer must be set to full volume.

6) Different DAC chip needs different software command to switch between DSD and PCM mode. Please read the corresponding DAC datasheet for detail.

 

 

 

Regards,

 

Alex


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> Not to be picky, but I posted the isolated version several times in this thread or the U12 thread, thought you would have noticed at least
> 
> ...


 

 Sorry missed that as I'm not an I2S guy - so this board is different with regulation on the PS lines.  What a steal for $89!  If you run I2S - why not build one as a stand alone unit?  Could be better than all the other low cost DDCs we've been buying.  Total cost could be competitive.
  
 PS Do you have the link to that one.  They have the other DXIO XMOS I2S in stock.


----------



## abartels

I bought a cheap AK4495SEQ based dac (I2S ONLY) to test with, curious what AK449x chips can do,
 if I like it I'm going to buy the complete diyinhk set and build it extensively with lots of R-Cores en lots of 0.8uV ultra low noise psu's.
  
 http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/68-768khz32bit-ak4490eq-dac-i2sdsd-input.html#/dac_option-isolated_xmos_dac_and_led_pcb
  
 Pricing: USD 149,95
  
 There's an extended article on HifiDuino how to feed this DAC with seperated psu's for all stages, including left and right seperated.
 It's also possible to buy 2 DAC's and set them in MONO mode, but pcb has to be modified for that.
  




*AK4490EQ is a new generation Premium 32-bit 2ch DAC with new technologies, achieving industry’s leading level low distortion characteristics and wide dynamic range. The AK4490 integrates a newly developed switched capacitor filter “OSR Doubler”, making it capable of supporting wide range signals and achieving low out-of-band noise while realizing low power consumption. Moreover, the AK4490 has five types of 32-bit digital filters, realizing simple and flexible sound tuning in wide range of applications. The AK4490 accepts up to 768kHz PCM data and 11.2MHz DSD data.*

*This item includes PCB with all SMT component soldered, thru-hole component are not soldered.*

**The XMOS PCB in the kit is flashed with our AK4490/4495 customized bit perfect volume control firmware, it send software command and switch AK4490/4495 between DSD and PCM playback. We are the first (since last year 2014) and still the only one (as of today 2015) in the major market can achieve DSD volume control from the PC os mixer bit perfectly. We are proud to ahead of the major market for at less one year. Please notes AK4490/4495 can only playback PCM when running in the default non software control mode.*

*Features:*

1) 768KHz/32Bit AK4490 DAC Chip (industry’s leading level low distortion characteristics and wide dynamic range.)

2) Solid ground plane with careful split of digital and analog portion(a must for highest fidelity audio)

3) No Via in active circuit (via inductance always create jitter problem)

4) 0.1% Low noise thin film resistor and C0G Capacitor sourced from Digikey USA (guarantee no fake product from China)

5) 2200uF panasonc Low ESR capacitor at VREFH/L pin for super bass response and highest performance at 20Hz range frequency.

6) Gold plate I2S input connector and four GND return path dedicated for each I2S signal(lowest contact resistance and highest signal quality)

*User guide:*

 1)The AK4490 PCB can work immediately with only I2S signal and power supply connected, one 3.3V (>300mA), one 5.0V (>100mA) and one +-12V (>100mA) regulated power supply in the default parallel operation mode.

2)For Diyer requires more deeper customization or switch to DSD playback(software I2C command is needed), the latest veraion of AK4490 datasheet is available in the official AKM website.

3)The PCB is designed to be DIY friendly. Diyer can cut the trace and uses the socket labelled AVDD_R(3.3V), DVDD(3.3V) for individual power supply to the Left and right analog power supply and digial supply.

4)The differential output directly from the DAC has labelled with preallocated 2.54mm spacing socket for diyer easily connecting to their favorite IV and LPF and bypass the default onboard one.

 5) All dual opamp in single dip8 package IC can be used for this PCB output stage, such as OPA2134 AD8620 etc. One free opamp is included in the package and the model depends on stock.

6) Compact size 60mm x 60mm

*Additional user guide when used with XMOS PCB flashed with our AK4490/4495 customized bit perfect volume control firmware:*

1) Install jumper on AK4490 PCB PSN socket and SET it to LOW. The DAC will start to run in software control mode.

2) With our customized firmware, the audio data send to the DAC is always bit perfect and the volume control is done in the DAC chip. DSD volume control is available using the operating system mixer.

Without DAC specified firmware, the OS mixer will ruin the audio data if the volume is not set to full and DSD can only be playback at full volume.

Please notes the maxiumum sampling rate is limited by the XMOS PCB and it is 384k.

*For advance user only when AK4490 is used with isolated XMOS PCB:*

1) To avoid click noise occurs during replug of USB cable, remove FB1 and uses external 5v supply to CN3. Please notes reversed polarity or over voltage can damage the xmos chip immediately.

*Specification:*

1) I2S Input (MCLK, LRCK, BCK, DATA, GND)

2) Output level: 2V RMS

3) Resolution/Sampling Rate: Up to 32bit/768KHz

4) Supply: Regulated 3.3V, 5V, +-12V

*According to the AK4490 official datasheet page 44 notes 6 and our test, click noise occurs during power on/off, external mute circuit may be needed if click noise adversely affect system performance.

*Our latest D1X headphone amplifier includes power on delay and instant off output relay. It can mute the power on/off click noise of AK4495/AK4490 as well as all the other DAC chip requires this feature.

*For normal user, the newer AK4490 should be a better choice than AK4495. It can support upto 11.2Mhz DSD and it has better THD+N. AK4495SEQ is the first 768k DAC chip from AKM and it can be used as a reference for advanced user.

 

 

*NOTE: Picture is wrong picture, it's with non-isolated version, but kit is with isolated version, pricing is USD 149,95*


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> Sorry missed that as I'm not an I2S guy - so this board is different with regulation on the PS lines.  What a steal for $89!  If you run I2S - why not build one as a stand alone unit?  Could be better than all the other low cost DDCs we've been buying.  Total cost could be competitive.


 
  
 I planned that before, but problem was that I wanted to build a universal DDC with I2S, AES and SPDIF support.
  
 In the meantime I found a solution to build this, but I think I will go for the shortest I2S lines, so building a complete DAC.
  
 Cheers   
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Alex


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> I bought a cheap AK4495SEQ based dac (I2S ONLY) to test with, curious what AK449x chips can do,
> if I like it I'm going to buy the complete diyinhk set and build it extensively with lots of R-Cores en lots of 0.8uV ultra low noise psu's.
> 
> http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/68-768khz32bit-ak4490eq-dac-i2sdsd-input.html#/dac_option-isolated_xmos_dac_and_led_pcb
> ...


 

 Very Cool!  I see they have a PCM1704 R2R kit as well!  If they came up with a tube output version I'd go for it!. 
  
 But I sort bought that with the Lite DAC60 - for $500 - and it comes with the Rcores, case and control package.  So just went to work modding the heck out of it.
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/740362/lite-dac60-pcm1704-r2r-tubed-dac-mod-project
  
 Man does it sound awesome fed by the Hydra Z/Li Ion.


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> Very Cool!  I see they have a PCM1704 R2R kit as well!  If they came up with a tube output version I'd go for it!.
> 
> But I sort bought that with the Lite DAC60 - for $500 - and it comes with the Rcores, case and control package.  So just went to work modding the heck out of it.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/740362/lite-dac60-pcm1704-r2r-tubed-dac-mod-project


 
  
 The PCM1704 kit is without PCM1704 chip,,,


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> The PCM1704 kit is without PCM1704 chip,,,


 
 I saw that - mounting those not easy.  And the top PCM1704UK's are $65 each!  So the Lite DAC60 for me was the way to go.
  
 The rewards have been beyond my highest expectations!


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> The PCM1704 kit is without PCM1704 chip,,,


 

 The advantage to their PCM1704 board if used with the XMOS/NDK I2S board - the NDKs would become the reclockers for the PCM1704s- NICE!
  
 But I have a step down board that can take a 24.576 to 6.1 that I could use with seperate linear regulated PS to replace the DAC60 clock.  A lot of work so I just dropped in a Vanguard TXCO DIP14 T-T-H in to replace the cheapo Fox XO.  Simple drop replacement - made a small improvement.


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> The advantage to their PCM1704 board if used with the XMOS/NDK I2S board - the NDKs would become the reclockers for the PCM1704s- NICE!


 
  
 Yep, and PCM1704 pcb is also fully isolated 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Don't know if they can solder pcm1704UK if sending them the chips


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Yep, and PCM1704 pcb is also fully isolated
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 That would be good to know and how to run a seperate tube output stage from the IV lines


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> That would be good to know and how to run a seperate tube output stage from the IV lines


 
  
 You can ask the shop, they always answer in a timely fashion


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> You can ask the shop, they always answer in a timely fashion


 

 Yes I might do that.  Might see if they would sell the board without the caps - as I would probably go with better ones anyway.
  
 Still curious as to the SPDIF DXIO Pro3a with that Li Ion battery power - for my second system.  Hope they get some more in soon.
  
 Alex - do you know which regulator they are speaking about "world's lowest noise 1.0uV regulator from Analog Devices​"?​


----------



## rb2013

miracle1980 said:


> Mine is from April as well. So far no issues with drops. I hope that they will not appear in the future.
> I'm using it under Linux (Daphile), so no drivers required.


 

 I was thinking about this today -and a few reasons that I may be having so issues where others have not is the fact I use the spdif coax output only - not the I2S output.  Neither of my beloved DACs have an I2S input.  So for me that's not an option.  The other factor could be that I use the SoX upsampler in Foobar and upsample the 16/44 Redbook WAV files to 192k for one DAC and 96k for the other.

 The sound I hear is improved on these redbook files using this software - although it does push the DDC harder. The data stream is much larger - so harder to keep up with -the limit for spdif coax is 192k so that is the limit for the pathway.
  
 For folks not using upsampling the data stream would not be a challenging.


----------



## vvolant

Hi
  
 today I opened the box. here are some pictures of the inside (stock unit). It seems that the filter caps are not panasonic. Could somebody identify them?
 They are 16V caps.
 I also would like to identify the "crappy" bridge diodes which are better to be replaced and if would be happy to have an advice on which diodes are better and easy to install.
  
 Thanks!


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> Yes I might do that.  Might see if they would sell the board without the caps - as I would probably go with better ones anyway.
> 
> Still curious as to the SPDIF DXIO Pro3a with that Li Ion battery power - for my second system.  Hope they get some more in soon.
> 
> Alex - do you know which regulator they are speaking about "world's lowest noise 1.0uV regulator from Analog Devices​"?​


 
  
 Hi Bob,
  
 I don't know what kind of regulator they use, but LT3042 has lower noise.
 I have found something interesting for building psu:
  
 http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/The_Wire_-_All_Boards_and_Kits_Explained_Here
  
 Scroll down and look at the psu specs,,,,, and costs,,,,,,
  
 Not sure if components are included but I think it is,,,


----------



## abartels

vvolant said:


> Hi
> 
> today I opened the box. here are some pictures of the inside (stock unit). It seems that the filter caps are not panasonic. Could somebody identify them?
> They are 16V caps.
> ...


 
  
 Please take close-up picture of bridge rectifiers, and pictures around caps, can't identifying anything this way
  
 BTW, nice to see Melodious is following this thread, otherwise they NEVER would have used 16V caps, nobody does (at least, all the taobao manufacturers,,,,)


----------



## abartels

This is what Panasonic FC looks like:


----------



## vvolant

OK
 I have panasonic then.
 Here are the closest pictures I can take with my mobile phone:


----------



## ccschua

for mounting the CREE diodes, does anyone come across a adaptor board in vertical mounting ?


----------



## rb2013

vvolant said:


> OK
> I have panasonic then.
> Here are the closest pictures I can take with my mobile phone:


 

 Yes they look like Pannie FCs! 
  
 Also interesting he has moved the heat sink from the chip to the solderflow HS.


----------



## vvolant

ok
 and what about the diodes?
 I looked for the ref on the net, it seems they are vishay. Is it worth replacing them?


----------



## rb2013

vvolant said:


> ok
> and what about the diodes?
> I looked for the ref on the net, it seems they are vishay. Is it worth replacing them?


 

 Vishay are decent quality - I'm sure there are better


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> for mounting the CREE diodes, does anyone come across a adaptor board in vertical mounting ?


 
  
 No adapters, at least none which I know of.
 CREE's aren't that difficult to mount, the pannies are smaller, so there's room enough.


----------



## Maxx134

Wonder why it has two bridge rectifiers..
So essentially two power supplies


----------



## abartels

maxx134 said:


> Wonder why it has two bridge rectifiers..
> So essentially two power supplies


 
  
 it's something like this:


----------



## ccschua

I realise I have the same bridge rect which is vishay. I am more concern about burst of high current feeding forward and backward into the power systems. 
  
 however considering its only hundred of milliamps, would this be a concern. 
  
 will it be beneficial to change the adp150 caps to OSCON ? what is the value ?


----------



## Maxx134

Look for capacitor specs on "ripple current".

If worried about current, then maybe keep capacitance same value, 
Although the only current rush I see would be from bridge rect to caps..


----------



## vincponc2610

NDK clocks costs 8USD each. Why Melodius do not do an edition with those 2 clocks, and raise the price by 20USD ? I will buy it.


----------



## ccschua

I cant seem to find the DIL 14 board. 
  
 referring to the picture, do you think the TCXO will have the same slot for SMD mount shown in Red box ?
  
 can I just replace ADP150 with LT 3042 ?


----------



## b0bb

ccschua said:


> do you think the TCXO will have the same slot for SMD mount shown in Red box ?
> 
> >>Yes
> 
> ...


----------



## ccschua

Hi B0bb,
  
 to confirm understanding, I can just buy the NZ2520SD XO and mount directly on the slot of TCXO (since the TCXO has the smd pin out). is this correct ?
  
 If so I will just proceed to buy XO only from diyinhk. 
  
 rgds
  
 Quote:


b0bb said:


>


----------



## b0bb

> to confirm understanding, I can just buy the NZ2520SD XO and mount directly on the slot of TCXO (since the TCXO has the smd pin out). is this correct ?


 
  
 The NDK is half the size of the SMD XO in your picture, to be sure you have to remove the original XO and measure the distance between the pads on the board, if they are too far apart you may not be able to directly solder the NDK to the board, and adapter will be needed.


----------



## ccschua

Just found out this link
  
 http://world.taobao.com/item/45751321674.htm?spm=a312a.7728556.2015080705.15.L14ETq&id=45751321674&scm=1007.12006.7587.i45503630596&pvid=124bf4dc-739b-4cff-a1a1-e2b599109c12
  
 wonder if anyone has compared the amanero with crytek (using LT3042) with the MX-U8 ?
  
 Further probe, is it necessary to use LT 1963, is it so high current ?. I would rather use LT 3042
 rgds


----------



## MINORISUKE

*Question about external clock for MX-U8*
  
 As I have no knowledge about DIY, can any of you give me a suggestion?
 Probably I will ask my friend to modify it, once I know what I should do.
  
 I own the following rubidium clock and have found out that two output frequencies are exactly the same as those used in MX-U8.
http://www.shenzhenaudio.com/rbd-rubidium-clock-for-soundaware-d100-pro-deluxe-edition.html
 I want to use this rubidium clock for my MX-U8 and do not need its internal clocks.  (No switch between internal and external clock needed.)
 How could the simplest modification be done?


----------



## vvolant

vvolant said:


> I will try to play with buffer in foobar. I cannot modify the buffer size at the mx u8 level with the drivers i currently have.
> I thought the pops could also be due to a weak solder inside the box. I will check when i exchange the caps.
> Regarding the caps do you confirm 16v are enough?


 
  
 Hi
 I eventually found the source of the pops, in my case at least.
 The USB plug at the back of the melodious unit doesn't hold the USB cable tight enough. If the USB cable moves, even by a very small amount, then the pops occur.
 I have found a position for the USB cable which makes no pop at all now.
  
 I am still impressed by the MX-U8, especially given the cost.This is really a step up in my system. There is a real gain in the attacks and in the depth of the soundstage.
 Nichicon FG caps are on the way to my home. I am impatient to try the unit with them.


----------



## ginetto61

Hi ! just a curiosity
 Does anyone know which is the Vout at the LT 1963 output in the stock unit ?
 I mean the voltage across the 220uF cap.
 Is there a flexibility in the applicable value for this voltage ?
 I have at hand two 18650 type batteries that can be paralleled to get around 7V ... will they work ?  for how long more or less ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
http://www.flashlightslighting.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/114.jpg
  
 I do not know if it is worth to mess with the internals by the way.  Even when i replaced the ps caps i had problems with the very tiny terminals ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 why they build everything so weak and small i do not understand really.
*The copper traces on the pcb are like thin hairs ... even those carrying the current from the ps !!!!  unbelievable *... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 First thing i learned is that these high current traces must have good section for lower resistance ... this is against the Ohm's law !  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The power supply is not smd ... so why ??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Another thing that i do not like, not here, the smd rectifying diodes ... this is silly ... really.
 Thanks a lot,  gino


----------



## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi ! just a curiosity
> Does anyone know which is the Vout at the LT 1963 output in the stock unit ?
> I mean the voltage across the 220uF cap.
> Is there a flexibility in the applicable value for this voltage ?
> ...


 
  
 I suppose it's 5V, but to be sure you have to measure with your voltmeter,,,,,,,,
 It's a bad idea to connect 18650 at output LT1963.
  
 AND
  
 2x 18650 in parallel will result in higher current, voltage stays at 3,7V. You have to put them in series which will result in high impedance, not good at all.
 As discussed several times before (with you), if you want to try external psu, don't fiddle around with regulators on the pcb. You can try feeding LT1963 with external psu,
 but it probably needs around 7-9V DC. You could feed directly on +/- of one of the 4 psu caps. You can also remove psu caps and feed with DC.
  
 You also could disconnect PSU completely (or just don't plug in powercord) and solder +/- wires to external connector. This case you could feed with external 5V.
 Where to solder the wires? No idea, take your voltage / Ohm meter and try to find a good spot on pcb (AFTER output LT1963)


----------



## abartels

minorisuke said:


> *Question about external clock for MX-U8*
> 
> As I have no knowledge about DIY, can any of you give me a suggestion?
> Probably I will ask my friend to modify it, once I know what I should do.
> ...


 
 I haven't the slightest idea, don't know if it is possible at all.


----------



## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *abartels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> I suppose it's 5V, but to be sure you have to measure with your voltmeter,,,,,,,,
> It's a bad idea to connect 18650 at output LT1963.
> AND
> 2x 18650 in parallel will result in higher current, voltage stays at 3,7V. You have to put them in series which will result in high impedance, not good at all.


 
  
 Hi Alex and thanks again.
 Yes i meant in series sorry ...
 About the impedance to lower it the idea is *to use a new cap of about 2200uF at the batteries output and placed on the pcb where now there is the 220uF cap *
 as it is usually done to keep impedance low with batteries.  I know that batteries have a no so low internal impedance ... i have used always caps on the output.
 About caps values have you seen how huge are those used in the Hydra ps ???  amazingly big ...
 But i prefer a size that can be placed on the pcb as close as possible to the circuits that need power 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  


> As discussed several times before (with you), if you want to try external psu, don't fiddle around with regulators on the pcb. You can try feeding LT1963 with external psu,
> but it probably needs around 7-9V DC.
> You could feed directly on +/- of one of the 4 psu caps. You can also remove psu caps and feed with DC.  You also could disconnect PSU completely (or just don't plug in powercord) and solder +/- wires to external connector. This case you could feed with external 5V.  Where to solder the wires? No idea, take your voltage / Ohm meter and try to find a good spot on pcb (AFTER output LT1963)


 
  
 Thanks again.  *The Hydra Z solution (with a 5V DC socket on the back) made me think again about the mod as an interesting option.*
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0195/8522/products/HZ_back.jpg
 and also reading how much of an impact the power supply quality has on the Hydra also ... very high from what i understand even if the Hydra Z is a top quality design, i assume.
 Great unit indeed.  But a little out of my reach ... for now.
 I wonder why they do not offer a battery based ps option ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Anyway ... desoldering the cap after the LT1963 and make a connection with a new socket on the back should be feasible even for me ...
 but i have to check the voltage across the cap ... to be sure which voltage to apply.
 As we talk already ... the original power supply does not guarantee enough high freq noise suppression, and so the LT1963 (its noise rejection performance drops a lot at high freqs).
 The only way is to suppress this HF noise before the regulator so that there is none reaching it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ... hopefully of course.
 Batteries ... i am reading many great things about them ... many.
 I even bought some LiPo ones that i have disposed immediately on arrival because i learned that they can catch fire if pierced  ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 1st thing i have to measure the V across the cap at the regulator out.
 Thanks again for the very kind and helpful advice.
 Kind regards. gino


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> Just found out this link
> 
> http://world.taobao.com/item/45751321674.htm?spm=a312a.7728556.2015080705.15.L14ETq&id=45751321674&scm=1007.12006.7587.i45503630596&pvid=124bf4dc-739b-4cff-a1a1-e2b599109c12
> 
> ...


 
  
 Apples and pears,,,,
  
 LT3042 is lower noise. Amanero is Amanero, XMOS is XMOS. Amanero combo board doesn't look bad at all, but still no galvanic isolated psu rails.
 It just takes 1 psu rail, like all the others do.
  
 If you want to do it the right way, and take all the advantages possible, as posted several times before, you can do this: 
  
 At the moment, as far as I know, there's only ONE isolated xmos device available which can be fed with seperated psu rails (you have to solder the thru-whole componentsby yourself)
 It can be fed with seperated power lines, all galvanic seperated. It needs at least 1x clean 5V DC (for XMOS) and at least 2x clean 3,3V DC (for NDK Crystals)
 This isolated XMOS device will probably KILL ALL I2S INTERFACES AVAILABLE, at least, when using it the way it was designed for, that means, at least seperate psu for XMOS and seperate psu for
 both NDK Crystals.
  
 So, you would need:
  
 1x http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/69-isolated-xmos-dsd-dxd-384khz-high-quality-usb-to-i2sdsd-pcb-with-ultralow-noise-regulator.html
 2x http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/89-08uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-3357v-15ax2.html
  
 Regards
  
 Alex


----------



## hgpsemaj

For your information:
  
 The latest V1.6

  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Riemann


----------



## abartels

hgpsemaj said:


> For your information:
> 
> The latest V1.6
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hello Riemann,
  
 Thanks for the info!
 Personally I prefer the previous version, seperated transformer pcb seems to be better and easier to replace.
 Seems they put a higher value cap (470uF) after LT1963, and no heatsinks anymore. Will try to replace cap after LT1963 too.
 Panasonic caps are better than the original BC caps.
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## hgpsemaj

Hello Alex,
  
 Yes, I also consider separated transformer pcb is more desirable. And, I doubt Melodious would offer Noratel transformer as an option in this sort of one piece pcb any more.
  
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Riemann


----------



## rb2013

Hi Guys I have an extra MX-U8 for sale with the Nichicon HW caps - other wise stock.
  
 $100 - PM if interested.  SOLD


----------



## vincponc2610

Any chance for a Melodious with LT3042, NDK or Crystek XOs, PS RFI/EMI filtering ?
 an abartels-like one


----------



## ginetto61

vincponc2610 said:


> Any chance for a Melodious with *LT3042*, NDK or Crystek XOs, PS RFI/EMI filtering ?
> an abartels-like one


 
  
 Hi ! sorry but i missed the discussion LT3042 versus LT1063 ... in which way the 1st is better than the 2nd ?
 i saw that maybe the LT3042 power supply noise suppression is better at high freq ... is this the point ?
 By the way from this picture
http://www.head-fi.org/t/767935/lightbox/post/11890329/id/1444786
 i see that the board has been changed.  Does anyone know if it is better than the original version ?
 Thanks a lot,  gino


----------



## vincponc2610

Melodious has a two stage power supply with 1*LT1963 + 8* ADP150, each going to a different piece ( 1 for each of the 3 TCXOs, 4 rails for XMOS and 1 for optical output it seems)
  
 LT1963 has 40uV noise, ADP150 has 9uV noise, and LT3042 has 0.8uV noise and has way better power supply noise rejection at any frequency, about 20-30db better than ADP150.
 But LT3042 is 10 times more expensive than ADP150. ADP150 is about 0.5$, LT3042 is about 5$.


----------



## ginetto61

vincponc2610 said:


> Melodious has a two stage power supply with 1*LT1963 + 8* ADP150, each going to a different piece ( 1 for each of the 3 TCXOs, 4 rails for XMOS and 1 for optical output it seems)
> LT1963 has 40uV noise, ADP150 has 9uV noise, and *LT3042 has 0.8uV noise and has way better power supply noise rejection at any frequency, about 20-30db better than ADP150.*


 
 Hi and thanks a lot for the kind and very helpful advice.
 A much better regulator .. i understand.
 Quote:


> But LT3042 is 10 times more expensive than ADP150. ADP150 is about 0.5$, LT3042 is about 5$.


 
 and this is what drives me crazy ... who would not be willing to pay 5 USD more for a much better and key component ? who ????
 From what i understand the LT3042 could be used instead of the LT1963 and provide much more noise free voltage to the circuits downstream.
 To hear this is to want it immediately.
 I do not think it is a direct replacement for the LT1963, unfortunately.
 Is this one the only kit available ??? i need a kit to have any chance ...
  
http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/accessories0/73-08uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-33v5v-1ax2.html
  
http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/282-thickbox_default/08uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-33v5v-1ax2.jpg
  
 Thanks a lot again for the very valuable information.
 Kind regards, gino


----------



## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Hi and thanks a lot for the kind and very helpful advice.
> A much better regulator .. i understand.
> Quote:
> and this is what drives me crazy ... who would not be willing to pay 5 USD more for a much better and key component ? who ????
> ...


 
 it's this one, new version:
  
 http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/89-08uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-3357v-15ax2.html


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> it's this one, new version:
> http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/89-08uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-3357v-15ax2.html


 
 Hi Alex thanks a lot.
 very impressive specs indeed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





... max 200 mA aside 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  
 Thanks,  gino


----------



## vincponc2610

ginetto61 said:


> Hi and thanks a lot for the kind and very helpful advice.
> A much better regulator .. i understand.
> Quote:
> and this is what drives me crazy ... who would not be willing to pay 5 USD more for a much better and key component ? who ????
> ...


 
  
 It is not directly replacable.
 LT3042 would be more instead of ADP150, not so instead of LT1963.
 LT1963 provide current for everything. LT3042 might not be enough for everything, but enough for each components.
 BTW, LT3042 was released beginning of 2015, so before Melodious made its design.
 At this time ADP150 was a decent regulator.
  
 On price, 5usd * 8 = 40usd, and the caps to put around might not be the same as ADP150.


----------



## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *vincponc2610* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> It is not directly replacable.
> LT3042 would be more instead of ADP150, not so instead of LT1963.
> LT1963 provide current for everything. LT3042 might not be enough for everything, but enough for each components.
> ...


 
  
 Hi and thanks a lot again for helping me to understand better. Very kind of you.
 Yes ... i have seen 200 mA max from the LT3042.
 The more i think about it the more it seems to me that the key component is the LT1963 and that it has limits.
 Providing better 5VDC to the board the ADP150 chips will be fed with lower noise voltage and so not be asked to do the cleaning-up work ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 and then maybe they could be left in place.  They will not have noise to suppress i mean.
 The LT1963 seems not the best solution indeed (especially for its high freq noise poor performance).
_*I wonder which regulators the Hydra Z, the actual usb to spdif benchmark from what i understand,  uses for instance.*_
 Thanks again,  gino


----------



## vincponc2610

ginetto61 said:


> Hi and thanks a lot again for helping me to understand better. Very kind of you.
> Yes ... i have seen 200 mA max from the LT3042.
> The more i think about it the more it seems to me that the key component is the LT1963 and that it has limits.
> Providing better 5VDC to the board the ADP150 chips will be fed with lower noise voltage and so not be asked to do the cleaning-up work ?
> ...


 
  
 Output noise should be: rated output noise + PSSR * input noise.
  
 So, yes having the first stage having low noise is important.
 BTW, looking at this page https://hifiduino.wordpress.com/2011/03/29/new-breed-of-ultra-low-noise-regulators/ TPS7A4700 has 1000mA output, 4uv output noise, and a PSSR of 60db <100KHz, instead of 40db for LT1963
 so that would make a robust first stage regulation for LT3042.
  
 A 10 times better first stage for a 10 times better second stage.


----------



## ccschua

I can confirm that TPS7A can source the power as I had used it to power up the OCXO. 
  
 if I am using TPS 7A (Tekdevice from ebay), can I remove existing 220uF cap and replace it with the output of TPS 7A?


----------



## rb2013

ginetto61 said:


> Hi and thanks a lot again for helping me to understand better. Very kind of you.
> Yes ... i have seen 200 mA max from the LT3042.
> The more i think about it the more it seems to me that the key component is the LT1963 and that it has limits.
> Providing better 5VDC to the board the ADP150 chips will be fed with lower noise voltage and so not be asked to do the cleaning-up work ?
> ...


 
 Hi Gino,

 Remember the Hydra is designed for an external power supply - so that is where most of the regulation has to occur.  Unlike the U12, MX-U8, Breeze Audio - where the AC power supply is located in the same device.  One of the advantages of course with the Hydra Z approach is the ability to use a 5VDC Li Ion battery for power.
  


vincponc2610 said:


> Output noise should be: rated output noise + PSSR * input noise.
> 
> So, yes having the first stage having low noise is important.
> BTW, looking at this page https://hifiduino.wordpress.com/2011/03/29/new-breed-of-ultra-low-noise-regulators/ TPS7A4700 has 1000mA output, 4uv output noise, and a PSSR of 60db <100KHz, instead of 40db for LT1963
> ...


 
 Nice link!   I don't see the renowned LT3042 on the list though? 
  
 BlogGear makes an excellent point:


> Just like phase noise in clocks, it is difficult to compare noise values among linear regulators because there is no common ground in specifying noise figures. Some companies report noise density, others RMS V noise, and yet others % of Vout. The frequency range for the reported noise figures also varies from company to company.


 
 He did not compare ripple rejection by frequency - which is important,  As one of the key functions of the linear regulator is to filter out power supply ripples and noise.  Best to measured by freq and analyzed as a graph versus just a static figure.  From my experience looking these most of the LDO's have a big drop off in ripple rejection as freq climbs.
  
 For the excellent ADM7151 this can be found on page 9 of the PDF the data sheet.
 http://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/ADM7151.pdf
  
 Same for the LT1963: top of page 11
 http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/1963aff.pdf
  
 Note excellent ripple rejection of the TI LM 2941 used in the Breeze Audio (additionally uses two for a double regulation stage).  Middle of page 8
 http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2941.pdf


----------



## ginetto61

rb2013 said:


> Hi Gino,
> Remember *the Hydra is designed for an external power supply - so that is where most of the regulation has to occur*.
> Unlike the U12, MX-U8, Breeze Audio - where the AC power supply is located in the same device.
> One of the advantages of course with the Hydra Z approach is the ability to use a 5VDC Li Ion battery for power.


 
  
 Hi and i think i have some issues with the english ... it is only my 5th language ... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Question ... what stops us to mod the *Melodious* to get a Hydra like unit ... what ?
 Clearly *the power supply section up to the lt1963 included is its weak point *... i do not have a scope but i am pretty sure that at its output there is a lot of noise.
 Placing a dc socket on the back, desoldering the 220uf cap after the lt1963 and soldering a wire between the dc socket and the board and voilå ... you have *a Hydra-like Melodious.*
 Then you can use the very best 5VDC power supply you can find/build ... with most the regulation occurring in this external power supply.
 At that point even the stock ADP150s could be kept ... they will not have to suppress anything. The supplied voltage will be perfectly clean.
*I like the Hydra approach so much better instead of a power supply inside the unit.*.. very very better. No EMI emission ...no vibrations ... nothing. 
 Thanks again, gino


----------



## vincponc2610

rb2013 said:


> Nice link!   I don't see the renowned LT3042 on the list though?


 
  
 Because the post is from 2011, LT3042 is from 2015


----------



## b0bb

The LT 3042 is a new class of regulator designed to work at very high/radio  (>1MHz) frequencies. 
 The article below compares it to the LT1962, a conventional high performance regulator, the 3042 is operational @10MHz with 60dB of PSRR, the LT1962 is effectively out of the picture at the range.
  
 http://powerelectronics.com/regulators/quiet-ldo-employs-unique-architecture-cut-noise-and-boost-psrr
  
 I am using the 3042 on another project, USB-I2S DDC . The 3042 is good enough that separate supplies to the XO/clocks are not required, hence the  supply inputs are jumpered together on the DDC  board. Top right on picture.
  
 Top board is the DDC, bottom board is the 3042 regulator board, it drives and external transistor to provide > 200mA.
  

  
 There are couple of disadvantages.
  
 The 3042 is a very small SMD flatpack
 RF frequencies require special handling and several problems with the PS board shown here has to be corrected, picture was taken before I rebuilt it.


----------



## rb2013

ginetto61 said:


> Hi and i think i have some issues with the english ... it is only my 5th language ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 The Hydra Z is based on a completely different processor - not the XMOS.  So that is impossible.
  
 It would be difficult to make the Melodious adapted to a 5VDC external feed.


----------



## rb2013

vincponc2610 said:


> Because the post is from 2011, LT3042 is from 2015


 
 I see thanks!  I see the TI LM 2941 is not on the chart as well - so I assume it's also newer the 'New Breed of Ultra Low Noise Regulators' as well.
  


b0bb said:


> The LT 3042 is a new class of regulator designed to work at very high/radio  (>1MHz) frequencies.
> The article below compares it to the LT1962, a conventional high performance regulator, the 3042 is operational @10MHz with 60dB of PSRR, the LT1962 is effectively out of the picture at the range.
> 
> http://powerelectronics.com/regulators/quiet-ldo-employs-unique-architecture-cut-noise-and-boost-psrr
> ...


 
 The 3042 PSRR is really excellent at these extreme frequencies.  What about the LM2941 the PSRR looks very good @ 1MHz 68dB.  TI does show beyond that on their PDF spec sheet, but it looks flat from approx .5Mhz to 1Mhz
  
 Good luck on that project


----------



## rb2013

Thanks for this great link - so looking at the specs and comparing the Linear LT3042 ad LT1962 to the TI LM2941  I see some interesting numbers - but don't know if they are directly comparable (different mauf).
  
 So SSRP at 1 Mhz:
 LT1962 20dB, LT3042 79dB, LM2941 68dB
  
 Output noise (uVRMS 10Hz to 100kHz)
 LT1962 20, LT3042 0.8, LM2941 .003
  
 http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2941.pdf


> RMS output noise, % of VOUT 10 Hz to 100 kHz, IOUT = 5 mA 0.003%


 
  
 http://powerelectronics.com/regulators/quiet-ldo-employs-unique-architecture-cut-noise-and-boost-psrr


----------



## b0bb

rb2013 said:


> Thanks for this great link - so looking at the specs and comparing the Linear LT3042 ad LT1962 to the TI LM2941  I see some interesting numbers - but don't know if they are directly comparable (different mauf).
> 
> So SSRP at 1 Mhz:
> LT1962 20dB, LT3042 79dB, LM2941 68dB
> ...


 
 The PSRR at the high frequencies is the important parameter
 LT3042 79dB, LM2941 68dB
  
 If you look at the graph in the article, the 3042 maintains 60dB PSRR @10MHz. The LM2941 is pretty decent at @1MHz, it is a pity TI did not characterize it any higher. PSRR >50dB is sufficient
  
 0.003%@5V is 150uV, quite tolerable as this is a 5V pre-regulator and this is a digital system. If this was a DAC it is another matter.
  
 My rebuild of the regulator board is almost done.
  
 Before:

  
 After:

  
 The LT3042 needs both low ESR and low ESL (Equivalent series inductance). It can go unstable with the wrong choice of components.
  
 The brown cap (C4) was marginal, ESR measured at 60mOhm, 3042 recommended ESR for the output cap is 50mOhm and the inductance was quite high given it wound foil construction.
  
 The replacement is the black SMD Kemet tantalum polymer cap with an ESR of 4mOhm.
  
 R4 (SMD resistor in the center) sets the output voltage and C6 is the AC bypass for R4.
 C6 uses a stacked construction to reduce the ESL, it is a 10uF TDK XR7 MLCC ceramic cap sitting ontop of  a 1uF Rubycon Acrylic Stacked film cap. The film cap is to help cushion the big MLCC to reduce microphonics and smoothtout the performance in the mid freqs (100kHz-1MHz)
  
 As comparison, the big red WIMA and C6 are both 10uF, C6 holds a lot of capacitance in a very compact package.
  
 C5 is the bypass for the output cap, same stacked construction of MLCC + plastic film.
  
 Power supply filter caps are 1000uF OSCON SEPF replacing the Panasonic FCs, the diodes were replaced with fully insulated low leakage Schottky diodes, this helps reduce  the potential of an unwanted short with the exposed metal tabs of the original.
  
 The only thing I have left to do is to replace R4 with a Vishay VSMP bulk foil SMD resistor to reduce inductance even further.


----------



## rb2013

b0bb said:


> The PSRR at the high frequencies is the important parameter
> LT3042 79dB, LM2941 68dB
> 
> If you look at the graph in the article, the 3042 maintains 60dB PSRR @10MHz. The LM2941 is pretty decent at @1MHz, it is a pity TI did not characterize it any higher. PSRR >50dB is sufficient
> ...


Sweet! You're light years ahead of me on this level of mod/build.


----------



## b0bb

rb2013 said:


> Sweet! You're light years ahead of me on this level of mod/build.


 
 Thanks. if you have any plans to use the DiyINHK 3042 boards, suggest checking them over, I see they are also using regular low ESR aluminium caps  for the output.
 The reference  and bypass (C6/R4 equivalent on their board) might benefit from closer inspection.


----------



## ccschua

hi B0bb, can I know if I can just remove the LT 1963 and 220uF in the U8 and replaced with a 3.3V TPS7A4700 set at 3.3V ?


----------



## b0bb

ccschua said:


> hi B0bb, can I know if I can just remove the LT 1963 and 220uF in the U8 and replaced with a 3.3V TPS7A4700 set at 3.3V ?


 
 Yes but there a few problems to solve.
  
 The TekDevice board you mentioned earlier has a diffrent pinout. You need rewire the TekDevice board to patch the PCB lands on the Melodious

  
 In my case I was translating from 78xx pinout on the TekDevice to the LM315 pinout on the board.
 The TekDevice board is not decoupled properly and the regulator can go unstable, you will need to add a10uF  tantalum cap to the DC *input*.
  
 The next problem is to figure how to mount the TekDevice board onto the Melodious, this is a mechanical issue.
  
 The last thing is to figure out how to remove the LT1963 from the PC board, it is a surface mount DDPak with an *integrated heatsink*.
 You will need a lot of heat  applied in a carefully controlled fashion to avoid warping the PCB and causing the copper foil to peel off.
  
  
 The tool for that job is a hot air wand and it will take between 15 and 30mins of slow careful heating.

 (I do not recommend cutting the leads and leaving the thing on the board, care needs to be taken to avoid overstressing the PCB connection points (lands) if you do ).


----------



## rb2013

rb2013 said:


> Sweet! You're light years ahead of me on this level of mod/build.







b0bb said:


> Thanks. if you have any plans to use the DiyINHK 3042 boards, suggest checking them over, I see they are also using regular low ESR aluminium caps  for the output.
> The reference  and bypass (C6/R4 equivalent on their board) might benefit from closer inspection.


Looking at getting on of their DXIO PRO 3A with the NDK's, they mention ultra low noise regulators, but the photo is too grainy to make out which. So when I get one, I'll keep that in mind.

The Breeze Audio is blowing me away! Getting close to the Hydra Z in SQ. This is by far the best of the low cost units. Thinking about how good it might be with CCHD957's. Will have to get one of those sweet heat wands, so I can donthe DIP14 mounting easier.


----------



## ccschua

sorry.
  
 I am using the following board which can accept 6 to 9V input.  
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/TPS7A4700-Ultra-Low-Noise-Adjustable-1-4V-20-5V-1A-Power-Supply-/391133464079?hash=item5b115f060f


----------



## b0bb

ccschua said:


> sorry.
> 
> I am using the following board which can accept 6 to 9V input.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/TPS7A4700-Ultra-Low-Noise-Adjustable-1-4V-20-5V-1A-Power-Supply-/391133464079?hash=item5b115f060f


 

 This is not suitable as it has a built in diode rectifier and AC input.
 In order to get the best results with the high RF frequencies, the replacement regulator as to be as close as possible to the connections of the LT1963
  
 The TPS7A4700 is also an RF LDO, so care has to take to keep the connections as shorts as possible or it will oscillate and go unstable.
  
 The one in my photo is what I would recommend
 http://tekdevice.com/chapter2/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=131


----------



## b0bb

> The Breeze Audio is blowing me away! Getting close to the Hydra Z in SQ. This is by far the best of the low cost units. Thinking about how good it might be with CCHD957's. Will have to get one of those sweet heat wands, so I can donthe DIP14 mounting easier.


 
  
 I am glad you like the Breeze Audio. The differences between it and the Hydra Z is boiling down to the Crystek XOs, quite impressive given it is 1/4 the cost of the Hydra.


----------



## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *rb2013* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> The Hydra Z is based on a completely different processor - not the XMOS.  So that is impossible.
> It would be difficult to make the Melodious adapted to a 5VDC external feed.


 
 Hi and thanks a lot for the very helpful advice.
 Please let me rephrased a little.
  
 I did not measure the V out of the LT1963 ... let's say that is 7 V just as an example.
 I understand that:
 1)  the LT1963 is not the end of the world for performance
 2)  the apd150 after it are decent but not spectacular
 On this basis
  
*could providing the needed 7V with an external very low noise power supply be beneficial ?*  
  
 I am sure there is some noise at the LT1963 out pins ...
 A higher quality external DC power supply could generate less noise and less EMI and vibrations than with the transformer inside the unit and close to the board.
  
 However ...
 I have looked at your mods ... very very excellent.  Congratulations. They look extremely neat.
 Questions:
 1)  do you select the new parts (i.e. caps, diodes)  looking at their specifications ?
 2)  after mods do you check the result with a scope ?
 Thanks a lot again
 gino


----------



## Sergey83149

Сообщение от  *abartels* 

  
 For those who wonder why I 16V of a cap instead of share 25V caps:
 The rail a warehouse of food of food provides max. 9.5V, before regulation (when using the transformer with an exit 7B)
 It also counts on noise food Ultra Low.
  
 Hi Abartels. If to replace only caps with NICHICON FG, it is better to choose 16v or 25v? I plan to change nothing more.
 These it is better?

 http://priceinchina.ru/buy_elna_cerafine_roa_220uf_16v_audio_aluminum_electrolytic_capacitors_aliexpress_42ONCCA


----------



## vincponc2610

b0bb said:


> I am glad you like the Breeze Audio. The differences between it and the Hydra Z is boiling down to the Crystek XOs, quite impressive given it is 1/4 the cost of the Hydra.


 
  
 Can you give a link for "Breeze Audio" ?


----------



## rb2013

b0bb said:


> I am glad you like the Breeze Audio. The differences between it and the Hydra Z is boiling down to the Crystek XOs, quite impressive given it is 1/4 the cost of the Hydra.


 
 Yes - as each day passes and the caps and clocks burnin the BA is sounding better - and not one unlock, tick,click yet. It does have an issue on the I2S output - which I don't need - but may be a factor for some.
  
 I have a second one coming with the Talema transformers - and will send them a set of Crystek clocks for them to install (they said they would) for a third.  Still deciding on replacing these unusual Panasonic Xpro caps.
  


ginetto61 said:


> Hi and thanks a lot for the very helpful advice.
> Please let me rephrased a little.
> 
> I did not measure the V out of the LT1963 ... let's say that is 7 V just as an example.
> ...


 
 I believe what Alex did was just fed the clocks separately with ultra low noise board from DIYinHK.  Seems like the simpler way to go. 
  


vincponc2610 said:


>


 
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/271948361421?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## ginetto61

rb2013 said:


> I believe what Alex did was just fed the clocks separately with ultra low noise board from DIYinHK.  Seems like the simpler way to go.


 
  
 Hi and yes i saw.  A very radical mod ... again i still wonder if suppressing the noise before the stock regulators feeding the clocks would get similar results.
 I will try as soon as i will have the chance ... i am in the middle of moving.
 Thanks again, gino


----------



## vincponc2610

ginetto61 said:


> Hi and yes i saw.  A very radical mod ... again i still wonder if suppressing the noise before the stock regulators feeding the clocks would get similar results.
> I will try as soon as i will have the chance ... i am in the middle of moving.
> Thanks again, gino


 
 It cannot be the same.
 ADP150 has intrinsic noise of 9uV. So it cannot output a noise of less than 9uV whatever clean power supply it has as input.
 The mod of alex feed the clocks with a 0.8uV noise power supply. Ten times less.


----------



## ginetto61

vincponc2610 said:


> It cannot be the same.
> *ADP150 has intrinsic noise of 9uV. *
> *So it cannot output a noise of less than 9uV whatever clean power supply it has as input.*
> The mod of alex feed the clocks with a 0.8uV noise power supply. Ten times less.


 
  
 Hi and thanks a lot indeed for the very kind and helpful explanation.  Okkei ...
*0.8 uV is soo low noise than i cannot even image it ... (i am used to noise in the order of mV ... thousand times more)*
*but do you deem that noise this low (i.e. about 1 uV) is really mandatory  for clocks ?*
*or maybe it is more a problem of the quality of the quartz actually used ?*
in this case the replacement could be the right move 
 9uV is already almost no noise at all in my mind ...
 i think that even measuring it would be a big challenge
 Can you measure it ?
 Instead i am sure that the stock lt1963 can be more noisy ... in the order of the mV ... and i understand can be bettered
 Thanks a lot indeed again for the very interesting information
 Regards, gino


----------



## b0bb

vincponc2610 said:


>


 

 Breeze Audio is a brand of Weiliang Audio.
  
 The best place for the new stuff is on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/141026791919
  
 They have several Web storefronts but the inventory is not updated often enough, I do not see this new unit in either
  
 http://www.aliexpress.com/store/327509
 http://diyhifishop.com/


----------



## rb2013

b0bb said:


> Breeze Audio is a brand of Weiliang Audio.
> 
> The best place for the new stuff is on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/141026791919
> 
> ...


 

 Yes - Reimann @hgpsemaj
  
 Has been in contact with Mr Weiliang and he said he would install the Crystek clocks if a buyer sent them to him.
  
 The version I just bought off Ebay from doukmall - has the Talema upgrade and was $208 shipped.  A steal.  So with $50 in clocks - this could be one killer good DDC.
  
 Now Reimann did mention the I2S is lacking a PCM/DSD switch - here is the chart I recieved from Doukmall

  
  
 Not a concern for me as I use spdif coax.
  
 Funny the version aliexpress is not nearly as nicely constructed.
 The one I have sure is sweet sounding.  Will give it another 3-4 days and put it my main system where the Z is now.  To see how they compare.


----------



## vvolant

Hi
I replaced the stock Panasonic caps of the melodious by nichicon fg yesterday evening. I only could test at low volume (night listening session). The difference was not very obvious. More tests to come.
I also would like to improve the rectifier bridge. Does someone know better parts than the stock vishay ? I would prefer an integrated bridge. I read about one with Schottky diodes but it is too expensive (around 50 euros)


----------



## rb2013

vvolant said:


> Hi
> I replaced the stock Panasonic caps of the melodious by nichicon fg yesterday evening. I only could test at low volume (night listening session). The difference was not very obvious. More tests to come.
> I also would like to improve the rectifier bridge. Does someone know better parts than the stock vishay ? I would prefer an integrated bridge. I read about one with Schottky diodes but it is too expensive (around 50 euros)


 

 I had these recommended to me:
http://www.belleson.com/
http://sparkoslabs.com/discrete-voltage-regulators/


----------



## mz2014

Comparison of different regulators http://www.tech-diy.com/RegPowerSupplies/GreatRegulatotBakeoff/FFTs/RegulatorFFTs.htm
 Sjostrom is very good but expensive.
 There are just as good but cheaper than Sjostrom https://muzgdiy.wordpress.com/vx-x-voltage-regulators-versions-explanation/


----------



## rb2013

mz2014 said:


> Comparison of different regulators http://www.tech-diy.com/RegPowerSupplies/GreatRegulatotBakeoff/FFTs/RegulatorFFTs.htm
> Sjostrom is very good but expensive.
> There are just as good but cheaper than Sjostrom https://muzgdiy.wordpress.com/vx-x-voltage-regulators-versions-explanation/


 

 Nice links- what was your conclusion the the BR's?


----------



## mz2014

Same as above.


----------



## hawkhead

My MX-U8 arrived today
  
 Plugged it in (replaces an Audio-gd DI)
  
 Loud buzzing
 Big click
 Faint burning smell
  
 Dead


----------



## m0reilly

nooooooooooooooooooooo


----------



## DACLadder

hawkhead said:


> My MX-U8 arrived today
> 
> Plugged it in (replaces an Audio-gd DI)
> 
> ...




Bummer! Hopefully it didn't set the house on fire or damage something connected to it. My first Gustard U12 USB port doesn't work consistently. The 2nd works flawlessly. So we take a risk. Hope you can send it back for another.

With low price electronics not much factory testing before packing it up and shipping. So from now on I will check return policies before ordering budget items. Unless it is cheap enough to not worry about.


----------



## rb2013

You were warned


----------



## vvolant

Everything coming from china at low cost seems to suffer from the same bad reliability. Industral process is not good enough to produce strictly identical items.
In some areas there can also be safety risks with electrical failure due to no respect of international standards. The other side of cheap items......


----------



## abartels

hawkhead said:


> My MX-U8 arrived today
> 
> Plugged it in (replaces an Audio-gd DI)
> 
> ...


 
  
 Very sad 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Did you check input voltage? Maybe it was set at 110Volts? What does your supplier say?
  
 Good luck!


----------



## abartels

sergey83149 said:


>


 
  
 Sergey,
  
 Like I said, when using 16V you can use 2200uF, if you use 25V you have to lower capacitance because caps won't fit in enclosure.
 The link you provided is not Nichicon FG but Elna, and it's only 220uF,
  
 FG Series:
 http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/fg-series/41360
  
 HW Series:
 http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/hw-series/30859
  
 I didn't compare HW with FG in this application, you could ask rb2013 which ones he prefers in this application since he tried both.
  
 Good luck,
  
 Alex


----------



## hawkhead

abartels said:


> Very sad
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 There is no selectable voltage
  
 The box is ticked 230V (I mentioned that to supplier as well - reply below)
  
 "Dear David
 Thanks for your message.
 I am very sorry to hear that.
 You can check the box, it have mark the voltage.
 Also can open case, it also have voltage inside this item.
 Have a great time.
  
 By the way, we have send you the 230V."


----------



## abartels

hawkhead said:


> There is no selectable voltage
> 
> The box is ticked 230V (I mentioned that to supplier as well - reply below)
> 
> ...


 
  
 Did your seller opted to replace the unit? I would check bottom of pcb if you can see any shortcomings,,,


----------



## hawkhead

abartels said:


> Did your seller opted to replace the unit? I would check bottom of pcb if you can see any shortcomings,,,


 
  
 No- I have replied to the seller (ShenzhenAudio) asking what happens now


----------



## hgpsemaj

According to their warranty:
  
 Since courier receipt date within 7 days, if quality problems and caused the machine to malfunction, Melodious Audio would provide return and replacement of the new service, Melodious Audio would offer a round trip shipping cost.


----------



## rb2013

vvolant said:


> Everything coming from china at low cost seems to suffer from the same bad reliability. Industral process is not good enough to produce strictly identical items.
> In some areas there can also be safety risks with electrical failure due to no respect of international standards. The other side of cheap items......


 

 The Breeze Audio and the three Gustard U12's I have recieved all played perfectly.  I Have had the Breeze Audio running now for over a week 24/7 - not one unlock, pop, or click.  Super easy to install - no handshake driver needed.
  
 So not all.  I think the Tanly's have been good as well - at least no reports of problems


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Sergey,
> 
> Like I said, when using 16V you can use 2200uF, if you use 25V you have to lower capacitance because caps won't fit in enclosure.
> The link you provided is not Nichicon FG but Elna, and it's only 220uF,
> ...


 

 Hi Alex, I liked them both better then the Pannie FC's and way better then stock.  I seem to slightly prefer the FGs, but the HW's are totaly acceptable.
  
 Just bought an iFi iDAC2 to use as a portable HP amp (with the Li Ion pack).  Very high quality components - saw these awesome Elna Silmic II's inside - I have used the brown version in my DAC60 mod project and really like them.   These black ones look very good  - will have to research were to find them.


----------



## Sergey83149

Dank Alex, rb2013!


----------



## hawkhead

Well now we know why mine failed when switched on for the first time ( I ordered 230V and the box says 230V)


----------



## abartels

hawkhead said:


> Well now we know why mine failed when switched on for the first time ( I ordered 230V and the box says 230V)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> Hi Alex, I liked them both better then the Pannie FC's and way better then stock.  I seem to slightly prefer the FGs, but the HW's are totaly acceptable.
> 
> Just bought an iFi iDAC2 to use as a portable HP amp (with the Li Ion pack).  Very high quality components - saw these awesome Elna Silmic II's inside - I have used the brown version in my DAC60 mod project and really like them.   These black ones look very good  - will have to research were to find them.


 
  
 I received AK4495 DAC ( I2S - PCM - DOP ONLY - 768kHz MAX ) dac to test with, very good components they used for a $35 dac, only have to change the AD827 and the diodes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 2x LT1963, Nover - Elna - Nichicon FG - Wima caps, very impressive


----------



## ccschua

my crystek just arrived. can I just use solder gun to solder the crystek to the board pins ?


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> I received AK4495 DAC ( I2S - PCM - DOP ONLY - 768kHz MAX ) dac to test with, very good components they used for a $35 dac, only have to change the AD827 and the diodes
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Very nice!  Maybe some heat sinks on those LT's?


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> my crystek just arrived. can I just use solder gun to solder the crystek to the board pins ?


 
  
 I would solder them on a DIL14 so you can remove them if neccessary


----------



## abartels

Quote: 





rb2013 said:


> Very nice!  Maybe some heat sinks on those LT's?


 
  
 They are not running hot, so I suppose it'snot neccessary.
  
 AK4495 is running!
  
 I only replaced the AD827 opamp with allready burned-in LME49720HA. Other components are stock.
 Just connected two torroidals (1 for digital, 1 for analog), made an I2S cable from an PC onboard USB cable, and connected to Melodious MX-U8.
  
 This little baby sounds fantastic! Even it's not burned-in at all this sounds much better than my CS4398 based dac!
 No listening fatigue at all, very wide and deep soundstage, tonal balance is very good, love this thingie 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 And, it's only $33,25  ($43,25 including shipment!), wow, that's the best deal ever!
 http://www.ebay.nl/itm/Upgraded-version-Assembled-AK4495EQ-II2S-DAC-board-support-32BIT-768K-decoder-/121606408978?hash=item1c504e8b12
  
  
 Can't wait till it has 150 hours of burn-in time


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> They are not running hot, so I suppose it'snot neccessary.
> 
> AK4495 is running!
> 
> ...


 

 AKM (Asahi Kasei Microdevices Corporation) makes really good DAC chips.  My APL uses 6 - 32-bit AKMs per channel.


----------



## ccschua

Finally replaced the tcxo with crystek 957. Its quite straight forward but care must be taken to remove the tcxo.

Overall just by this crystek clock upgrade alone is alot of improvement (I am still using the onboard regulators). I will be trying out ultra low noise ldo soon.

I plan to get the LT3042 from LKS and parallel tap the bottom AC supply (measured 9V) and supply the crystek from LT3042.


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> Finally replaced the tcxo with crystek 957. Its quite straight forward but care must be taken to remove the tcxo.
> 
> Overall just by this crystek clock upgrade alone is alot of improvement (I am still using the onboard regulators). I will be trying out ultra low noise ldo soon.
> 
> I plan to get the LT3042 from LKS and parallel tap the bottom AC supply (measured 9V) and supply the crystek from LT3042.


 
  
 Feeding them with seperate psu will bring it to another level


----------



## abartels

Quote: 





rb2013 said:


> Very nice!  Maybe some heat sinks on those LT's?


 
  
 They are not running hot, so I suppose it'snot neccessary.
  
 AK4495 is running!
  
 I only replaced the AD827 opamp with allready burned-in LME49720HA. Other components are stock.
 Just connected two torroidals (1 for digital, 1 for analog), made an I2S cable from an PC onboard USB cable, and connected to Melodious MX-U8.
  
 This little baby sounds fantastic! Even it's not burned-in at all this sounds much better than my CS4398 based dac!
 No listening fatigue at all, very wide and deep soundstage, tonal balance is very good, love this thingie 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 And, it's only $33,25  ($43,25 including shipment!), wow, that's the best deal ever!
http://www.ebay.nl/itm/Upgraded-version-Assembled-AK4495EQ-II2S-DAC-board-support-32BIT-768K-decoder-/121606408978?hash=item1c504e8b12
  
  
 Can't wait till it has 150 hours of burn-in time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
  
*UPDATE 15-09-2015:*
  
 Melodious MX-U8 I2S (RJ45) works fine with DOP64 and DOP128 on this AK4495 dac!
 DAC is sounding very sweet, huge soundstage! Best bang for buck ever 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I finally can play my SACD collection 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 DAC is sounding better by the day 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This I wasn't expecting from this little thingie, I definitely will build an AK4490 (mono) based dac later this year


----------



## ccschua

abartels said:


> Feeding them with seperate psu will bring it to another level


 
  
 I place an order for this
  
 http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/89-08uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-3357v-15ax2.html
  
 I plan to remove the U8 bridge diodes (lower bank) and have the 9V AC supply to the diyinhk lt3042 output 3.3V x 2 rail to the crystek 957 clocks.
  
 at the same time, can I remove the other diode bridge and have the below LT 3042 output 5V connect to the LT 1963 (since the LT 1963 is giving 5V )


----------



## DObleX

rb2013 said:


> The Breeze Audio and the three Gustard U12's I have recieved all played perfectly.  I Have had the Breeze Audio running now for over a week 24/7 - not one unlock, pop, or click.  Super easy to install - no handshake driver needed.
> 
> 
> So not all.  I think the Tanly's have been good as well - at least no reports of problems


 
 Could you share with the impressions of comparing The Breeze Audio and Gustard U12? Which of them gives better sound quality?


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> I place an order for this
> 
> http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/89-08uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-3357v-15ax2.html
> 
> ...


----------



## ccschua

at the same time, can I remove the other diode bridge and have the below LT 3042 output 5V connect to the LT 1963 (since the LT 1963 is giving 5V )
  
*No, that wouldn't work since regulator needs overvoltage to regulate, I suppose it needs 7V at least (please consult datasheet LT1963)*
  
My intention is to get rid of LT 1963,2200uF, bridge and the 22uF in the 5V path. I want to use the LT 3042 (1A ) board and output 5V at the output pins of LT1963. To remove LT1963, it requires air gun which I dont have and also I want to keep the option of reversibility (snipping it will be irreversible). 
  
I open the lid and found that R1 = 240 and R2 = 750ohm. Refer to picture below this is what I suspect how the 5V is derived from the LT1963 and the capacitor is 220uF. Here is my plan of modification. 
  
1. remove the 2 existing diodes bridge.
2. tap the top rail AC+ and AC- to the LT3042 input.
3. connect Output of LT 3042 5V to the LT 1963 output pin and common both the ground.
4. Bottom rail connect to LT 3042 3.3V board and output direct to Crystek clocks.
  
 any comments ?


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> at the same time, can I remove the other diode bridge and have the below LT 3042 output 5V connect to the LT 1963 (since the LT 1963 is giving 5V )
> 
> *No, that wouldn't work since regulator needs overvoltage to regulate, I suppose it needs 7V at least (please consult datasheet LT1963)*
> 
> ...


 
 I suppose that could work, I understand you will use 1x pcb 0.8uV psu, so both crysteks will be fed with same psu rail, don't know if that's the best option,,,,


----------



## ccschua

Finally I get the LT 3042 installed as per earlier description. and it works. 
  
 Its more transparent and with details I never heard before.The stock unit has serious lacks of bass drive and high end sparkle. I can crank the volume up and it sounds more majestic.
  
 next up will be another rail of LT 3042 3.3V feeding the crystek clock directly (bypass the adp150)
  
 for now, sit back and enjoy the music.


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> Finally I get the LT 3042 installed as per earlier description. and it works.
> 
> Its more transparent and with details I never heard before.The stock unit has serious lacks of bass drive and high end sparkle. I can crank the volume up and it sounds more majestic.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Congratulations! Glad to hear your MX-U8 also performs a lor better now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Please post some pictures 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## ccschua

messy work to prove concept. I tap 1 AC rail to LT 3042 (from LKS audio) and output to 5V dc. 
  
 I just realise that xmos consumes 300 to 500 mA. the voltage drops to 4.4V. therefore I need another 3.3V to the crystek clock (for galvanic isolation). 
  
 I had a hard time to remove the U8 bridge diodes. looks like a air gun is a must to remove 4 pin components.


----------



## b0bb

ccschua said:


> messy work to prove concept. I tap 1 AC rail to LT 3042 (from LKS audio) and output to 5V dc.
> 
> I just realise that xmos consumes 300 to 500 mA. the voltage drops to 4.4V. therefore I need another 3.3V to the crystek clock (for galvanic isolation).


 
 The LKS power supply is configured for 5V output, check to see if its working correctly.
  
 Disconnect the board output from the Melodious.
  
 Measure the voltage with nothing connected to the output, verify it is at 5V
  
 Connect  a 5W resistor to the output of the regulator board and check it is 5V. Use 10ohm for 500mA, 15ohm for 333mA
  
 See if the board puts out 5V in both cases, use the existing Melodious transformer as the AC power source.


----------



## Abra

I have got a warning not using the diyinhk LT3032 board:
  
 "i would *not *recommend you diyinhk LT3042 0.8uV. After researching was revealed that it has congenital defect made by diyinhk. The high freq noise on Mhz area is spreading around everything and no possibility to fix it without removing transistor"
  
 Any comments or solution for this issue?
  
 Thanks.


----------



## abartels

abra said:


> I have got a warning not using the diyinhk LT3032 board:
> 
> "i would *not *recommend you diyinhk LT3042 0.8uV. After researching was revealed that it has congenital defect made by diyinhk. The high freq noise on Mhz area is spreading around everything and no possibility to fix it without removing transistor"
> 
> ...


 
  
 Can you reveal your source please?


----------



## Abra

I have got the info from a card owner in private msg.
 Before purchasing this board with tempting parameters (the chip at least), I'm curious if anybody can confirm or confute? Is it a unique or a common feature of the boards?


----------



## Wildcatsare1

Hey all, I have rb2013's MX-U8 fired up and in my system. Cleaner, clearer window to the music, with an expansive soundstage, but maybe a tad brighter or less body than my Mac's optical out to the Monarchy M22B. Does this mirror anybody else's experience?


----------



## abartels

abra said:


> I have got the info from a card owner in private msg.
> Before purchasing this board with tempting parameters (the chip at least), I'm curious if anybody can confirm or confute? Is it a unique or a common feature of the boards?


 
  
 I do not know what you are talking about, I don't own the equipment to measure EMI/RFI or some sort of other radiation, I only can tell
 that this psu really does a good job within audio stuff.


----------



## Abra

You mean that you have this DIYINHK PSU, and sonically looks fine?


----------



## abartels

abra said:


> You mean that you have this DIYINHK PSU, and sonically looks fine?


 
  
 It's obvious you didn't read the thread,,,,,
  
 See: http://www.head-fi.org/t/767935/melodious-mx-u8-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/90#post_11735695


----------



## Abra

abartels said:


> It's obvious you didn't read the thread,,,,,
> 
> See: http://www.head-fi.org/t/767935/melodious-mx-u8-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/90#post_11735695


 
 You are rigth, google search like "LT3042 diyinhk" directed me to another page of the topic. Thank you for the link.
 I also like the sound of Cree schottkies as diode bridge, but  I used them in high voltage tube circuit. In low voltage applications old Motorola MBR ones are also appropriate for mee.


----------



## abartels

abra said:


> You are rigth, google search like "LT3042 diyinhk" directed me to another page of the topic. Thank you for the link.
> I also like the sound of Cree schottkies as diode bridge, but  I used them in high voltage tube circuit. In low voltage applications old Motorola MBR ones are also appropriate for mee.


 
  
 Hi Abra,
  
 You're welcome 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 The Cree diodes are really good, I just put them in my new dac too, and it's a big improvement.
  
 This very cheap chinese AK4495SEQ based dac, which I bought for testing purposes, amazes me!
 It definitely will STAY!
  
 As it has a designflaw I had to solder on it, and I decided to replace the 1N5401 diodes with the Cree C3D02060 ones.
  
 Designflaw: The caps between VREFHL/VREFLL and VREFHR/VREFLR were 33uF only instead of 220uF stated in datasheet.
 Further, as stated in evaluationboard datasheet of AK4490SEQ, THD+N at 20Hz (+) would improve by 8dB when using 2200uF caps,
 I had to put two caps in parallel with those 33uF ones. Hifiduino states on their site that noisefigures probably would even getting better if choosing bigger values so
 I decided to solder some 5600uF caps on the bottom of the pcb which definitely made a very good improvement!
  
 Btw, there are a lot of AK4495SEQ based dacs  (also REAL expensive ones) which have same designflaw,,,,,,,,,,,
  




  
 Some (badly taken) pics,,,,,


----------



## Abra

abartels said:


> Hi Abra,
> 
> You're welcome
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thank you.
 After testing ES9018 and another ES9018K2M diyinhk boards, the next logical step would be to give a chance to the AK4495SEQ or AK4490EQ. They seems to be the best DAC chips of the delta-sigma world. Or continue with the tempting Soekris distcrete R2R DAC.
 But I have changed my mind. It's time to try some high precision, multibit, non-audio purpose DAC chips. They are used in  industrial, defense and aerospace applications.
 This is not a diy project like buying a few plug-and-play boards, adding the transformator and the box, and ready within one day. But my audio buddies can design and build both the DAC board's hardware and the necessary XMOS programming.
 If it won't be successfull enough, the AKM chips and the Soekris discret DAC will be considered again.


----------



## abartels

abra said:


> Thank you.
> After testing ES9018 and another ES9018K2M diyinhk boards, the next logical step would be to give a chance to the AK4495SEQ or AK4490EQ. They seems to be the best DAC chips of the delta-sigma world. Or continue with the tempting Soekris distcrete R2R DAC.
> But I have changed my mind. It's time to try some high precision, multibit, non-audio purpose DAC chips. They are used in  industrial, defense and aerospace applications.
> This is not a diy project like buying a few plug-and-play boards, adding the transformator and the box, and ready within one day. But my audio buddies can design and build both the DAC board's hardware and the necessary XMOS programming.
> If it won't be successfull enough, the AKM chips and the Soekris discret DAC will be considered again.


 
  
 AK4490 has better specs but AK4495 is the better sounding one. Will try mono setup later! Btw, AK4497 is coming, samples available in December, will sound like AK4495 with better specs than AK4490 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Soekris looks very nice, but I don't like the onboard psu. Would love to see a Soekris with possibility to feed ALL stages with external psu (without a lot of modifying pcb,,,),
 thats why I didn't buy one
  
 Keep us posted about your multibit / non-audio purpose dac chips based project, very interesting indeed!
 .


----------



## Abra

abartels said:


> AK4490 has better specs but AK4495 is the better sounding one. Will try mono setup later! Btw, AK4497 is coming, samples available in December, will sound like AK4495 with better specs than AK4490
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 We will se the results within a few month.


----------



## Limpy

Hi all,
  
 First of all, I'm very happy to find this forum, lots of very useful infos about hifi. Respect to the writers.
 I have a question about USB transports. Here's my system:
  
 Yulong D18 DAC (without USB in) => Amp => Speakers
  
 My plan is to feed this with my PC.
  
 As I see in this forum the
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-XMOS-U8-USB-Digital-Interface-DSD-PCM-I2S-AES-EBU-Coaxial-Optical-converter-/141026791919
 transport can be good for this purpose. (with Talema supply)
  
 My questions:
  
 Which one is the best connection between the ( transport ) < = > ( DAC )    
 SPDIF, optical, AES/EBU?
  
 Is it worth to buy a special USB card (PPA V2 for example) into the PC for better sound? If yes, with dedicated PSU or not? My preferences are to spend money only if very neccessary.
 I know this is abolutely personal. So, help for this: I'd like to buy this only if the quality difference is _very_ significant , not "after several comparison" or "after burned in" or "in some cases" or  "after listen it for weeks" ..etc. You know what I mean.. I'm a developer, working with PCs for years, so this fancy USB outs a kind of myth for me.. 
  
 I'm new in music through PC, so this can be a silly question, sorry for that. My DAC don't support DSD. Is that means I absolutely wont play DSD files with this system
 or can be played but lower sound quality than a DSD capable DAC?
  
 Thank you!
  
 Limpy


----------



## abartels

limpy said:


> Hi all,
> 
> First of all, I'm very happy to find this forum, lots of very useful infos about hifi. Respect to the writers.
> I have a question about USB transports. Here's my system:
> ...


 
  


limpy said:


> Hi all,
> 
> First of all, I'm very happy to find this forum, lots of very useful infos about hifi. Respect to the writers.
> I have a question about USB transports. Here's my system:
> ...


----------



## Limpy

Thank you for the answers.
  
 As I read here
 http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread.php?18580-Science-Thread-Review-of-Audioquest-Jitterbug-and-Uptone-Regen-USB-Conditioners
  
 I'm not really convinced to use any USB thing (PPA or Regen) to make the SQ higher, but still reading...


----------



## Muziqboy

Just got a Melodious MX-U8 and using it un-modded via AES/EBU feeding a Theta DSPro Gen V-a dac. The sound is so glorious, I am at a loss for words to describe it. It is not even fully broken-in yet. 
  
 I did change the fuse to a HiFi Tuning Supreme with a WA Quantum fuse chip on 1 end of the fuse. Also applied some Silclear Silver contact enhancer on the fuse holder and I.E.C. pins. Highly recommended!!


----------



## abartels

Glad you like your Melodious-MX8 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I don't use a fuse in this device 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Regards,
 Alex


----------



## ccschua

Modifications completed.
  
 added TPS7A4700 LDO x 2 rail to each Crystek clock. Essentially the clock is galvanically isolated.
  
 LT 3042 feeding 5V to overall circuit.
  
 the improvement in transparency and PRAT is a big jump.
  
 playing back Eric Bibb - Jesus Walk with Me. the guitar sound so real . Sara K. Cant stand the rain - the separation of instrument very distinct. Etta James - I would rather go blind. the acoustics is so sweet and extended. Roland campenhout - Eyesight to the blind - the Harmonica is glorious and guitar plucking is crisp and clear.
  
 I am done modifications. (unless I am itch for the LT 3042 to the crystek.)
  
 oh forget to mention, I have added diyinhk LT3042 to the PPA OCXO clock.


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> Modifications completed.
> 
> added TPS7A4700 LDO x 2 rail to each Crystek clock. Essentially the clock is galvanically isolated.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Congrats 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Glad you got very positive results with your mods 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I like the track "Brick House" from Sara K. a lot, but "I Can't stand the Rain" also is a very good (sounding) song!
 BUT
  
 I am missing some pics 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Regards and keep up the good work,
  
 Alex


----------



## ccschua

As this is proof of concept, components were installed loose couple with the fact my DIY skill is far from good, I have not shot any photo.


----------



## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *abartels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif...
> 
> Designflaw: The *caps between VREFHL/VREFLL and VREFHR/VREFLR* were 33uF only instead of 220uF stated in datasheet.
> Further, as stated in evaluationboard datasheet of AK4490SEQ, THD+N at 20Hz (+) would improve by 8dB when using 2200uF caps,
> ...


 
  
 Hi Alex and sorry to jump in and maybe go a little OT.
 Very very interesting graph the one here above.
 Do you think that this could be a general behaviour also for caps used with op-amps for voltage bypassing ?
 Maybe increasing the value in an output stage can provide a better sound (at least at lower Hz i mean).
 Thanks a lot.
 Regards, gino


----------



## abartels

Hi Gino,
  
 It depends on the design. The above graph is specifically for VREF behaviour AK4490 / AK4495.
 Of course there are a lot of applications where increasing value of electrolytics improve SQ, especially buffer stages (PSU).
  
 I many cases you have to experiment a little. If you want to increase value, just test with a cap in parallel and listen to it (and give it it's burn-in time)


----------



## ccschua

has anyone compared diyinhk xmos usb spdif. 
  
 http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/97-xmos-192khz-high-quality-usb-to-spdif-with-ultralow-noise-1uv-regulator-wmanual-power-switch.html


----------



## ginetto61

abartels said:


> Hi Gino,
> It depends on the design. The above graph is specifically for VREF behaviour AK4490 / AK4495.
> Of course there are a lot of applications where increasing value of electrolytics improve SQ, especially buffer stages (PSU).
> I many cases you have to experiment a little. If you want to increase value, just test with a cap in parallel and listen to it (and give it it's burn-in time)


 
  
 Thanks a lot Alex !
 I am asking because i had a line preamp with 1000uF caps around the output op-amp and i liked the sound a lot.
 I do not understand why some people seem to have an adversion for big caps in general.  I loved them.
 Just like in the Audiobyte Hydra Power supply for instance
  
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj263/durant24/hydra-zpm-internal_zpsgrz4hrau.jpg
  
 Kind regards,  gino


----------



## abartels

ginetto61 said:


> Thanks a lot Alex !
> I am asking because i had a line preamp with 1000uF caps around the output op-amp and i liked the sound a lot.
> I do not understand why some people seem to have an adversion for big caps in general.  I loved them.
> Just like in the Audiobyte Hydra Power supply for instance
> ...


 
  
 Hi Gino,
  
 I like big caps in psu rails, low ESR (the lower the better, so the more in parallel the lower the ESR).
  
 PSU Hydra-Z are ultracaps, very big capacitance, only 2.7Volts each so have to put them in series which results in 2xESR, but very nice.
 They also are not that easily charged, special circuitry is needed.


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> has anyone compared diyinhk xmos usb spdif.
> 
> http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/97-xmos-192khz-high-quality-usb-to-spdif-with-ultralow-noise-1uv-regulator-wmanual-power-switch.html


 
  
 Not sure but I thought member rb2013 had one ordered.
  
 It seems a good device, with oscon caps for digital, but spdif only. Does your dac have I2S connection possibility?


----------



## ginetto61

> Originally Posted by *abartels* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> Hi Gino,
> I like big caps in psu rails, low ESR (the lower the better, so the more in parallel the lower the ESR).
> PSU Hydra-Z are ultracaps,* very big capacitance*, only 2.7Volts each so have to put them in series which results in 2xESR, but very nice.
> They also are not that easily charged, special circuitry is neede.


 
  
 Hi and thanks again for the very valuable advice.
 My point is that if we take two caps same series, same voltage but different uF
*the bigger one has ALWAYS better measurements,  every parameter is so much better *




 It is clear here below if we compare, for instance,  the 220 uF piece with the 2200 uf piece ...
 each and every spec is much better. I agree ...  they cost more ... they are bigger 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ... still ...
 Small is not beautiful ... size does matter.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  

  
 Regards,  gino


----------



## Walderstorn

Im considering this interface to go with a yulong d18, should i go with it or is there a better alternative up to that price point?
  
 The Melodious will be kept stock probably.


----------



## abartels

walderstorn said:


> Im considering this interface to go with a yulong d18, should i go with it or is there a better alternative up to that price point?
> 
> The Melodious will be kept stock probably.


 
  
 Hi Walderstorm,
  
 When using it in stock version, probably Breeze U8 will be better, please ask rb2013, he has one and is very fond of it


----------



## Walderstorn

abartels said:


> Hi Walderstorm,
> 
> When using it in stock version, probably Breeze U8 will be better, please ask rb2013, he has one and is very fond of it


 


 Thank you very much i will look into it


----------



## Muziqboy

@rb2013  Did you replaced the clocks in Breeze Audio with crysteks?
                  If you did, was it easy enough to replace?


----------



## abartels

Hi Muziqboy,
  
 Member hgpsemaj contacted manufacturer. They are willing to mount the Crysteks, but you have to send the Crysteks to them first.
  
 See post at the Gustard-U12 thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/736294/gustard-u12-usb-interface-8-core-xmos-chip/2385#post_11885027
  
 Quote:


rb2013 said:


> Now I understand the Breeze can be ordered with the better Talema transformer - I have one and it looks like a drop in replacement.  And it is rumored they will install Crystek clocks if you provide them to the builder.


 
  
 On 20th August 2015, Mr.伍汝新 of Breeze Audio confirmed they will install Crystek clocks if customer provide them to the factory as follow:
  
riemanncheung(2015-08-20 15:20:31):

有關 '清風 DU-U8終極版 XMOS USB數字界面', 可否補錢換替 Crystek 晶振?
  

riemanncheung(2015-08-20 15:23:33):

我說的是 Crystek 晶振,
  

伍汝新:伟坚(2015-08-20 15:25:34):

这个我们没有哦，你可以买了寄过来帮你换减去差价
  

riemanncheung(2015-08-20 15:26:26):

減去差价多少?
  

伍汝新:伟坚(2015-08-20 15:31:29):

448元的减去10元即438元
  
  
Regards,
  
Riemann
  
  
===================================
  
Google translates into:
  
 riemann cheung (2015-08-20 15:20:31):
 About the 'breeze DU-U8 Redux XMOS USB Digital Interface', you could make money for for Crystek Crystal?
 riemanncheung (2015-08-20 15:23:33):
 I'm talking about Crystek Crystal,
 Wu Yu New: Weijian (2015-08-20 15:25:34):
 Oh, we do not have this, you can buy a send over to help you change the price difference minus
 riemanncheung (2015-08-20 15:26:26):
 How much difference is subtracted?
 Wu Yu New: Weijian (2015-08-20 15:31:29):
 448 yuan, minus 10 yuan namely 438 yuan
  
  
 This means, if you send them the Crysteks, they will solder them and you get 10 yuan rebate because they don't have to use their own crystals.
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## Muziqboy

@abartels Thanks for the info Alex!


----------



## Muziqboy

Will there be any added benefit if I use the new iFi iUSB3.0 between the Laptop and the Melodious?


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Not sure but I thought member rb2013 had one ordered.
> 
> It seems a good device, with oscon caps for digital, but spdif only. Does your dac have I2S connection possibility?


Hi Alex, No DIYinHK had been back ordered on the DIXO Pro. But it looks like they are back!

Nice NDK SD clocks, ultra low noise, I really like the 5vdc input. I have three sources now (using on the Hydra Z). A 16,000ma Li Ion, a smaller TeraDak linear power supply, and a larger r-core TeraDak. I will mod these after some listening tests. I like the idea of ps in a seperate chassis then the clocking circuit.

I'll get one for my DDC shootout.


----------



## rb2013

muziqboy said:


> @rb2013
> Did you replaced the clocks in Breeze Audio with crysteks?
> If you did, was it easy enough to replace?


Yes Alex is correct. I modded my MX-U8's only with ps cap replacement. To busy at work to do the Cyrstek clock replacement. To me the stock Breeze U8 is better then the slightly MX-U8's. I have also had issues with all three of my Melodious's. So the two Breezes have been 100% perfectly trouble free. And no driver with device recogniction needed! Love that.

I have a Hydra Z and with the TeraDak it's still the best. But will order a three Breeze with the Talema and Crystek clocks. So we'll see.


----------



## Walderstorn

@rb2013 Anywhere in Europe i could buy the Breeze ? Or at least someone who is willing to ship the Breeze to Europe?


----------



## GenpattonJames

Is there a thread that actually discusses the "Sound" of the stock unit? The title says nothing about modding the stock unit and I see one person asking about the sound...one post and I think he gave up. It's not that I don't appreciate what's being done, I think it's great but I am sure a lot of readers want to know how the stock unit performs right?


----------



## GenpattonJames

rb2013 said:


> Yes Alex is correct. I modded my MX-U8's only with ps cap replacement. To busy at work to do the Cyrstek clock replacement. To me the stock Breeze U8 is better then the slightly MX-U8's. I have also had issues with all three of my Melodious's. So the two Breezes have been 100% perfectly trouble free. And no driver with device recogniction needed! Love that.
> 
> I have a Hydra Z and with the TeraDak it's still the best. But will order a three Breeze with the Talema and Crystek clocks. So we'll see.





Just read your post..now THAT interests me as I was considering either the Melodious or the breeze. I think it was you that sent me s post that said the breeze was a better unit stock. May I ask what your impressions are since you have had both and also what issues do the melodious have?


----------



## conquerator2




----------



## conquerator2

@rb2013 - can you please tell me where you got your Breeze Audio MX-U8?
 I am looking to upgrade from my U12 eventually and have just joined this thread 
 Thank you!


----------



## abartels

genpattonjames said:


> Just read your post..now THAT interests me as I was considering either the Melodious or the breeze. I think it was you that sent me s post that said the breeze was a better unit stock. May I ask what your impressions are since you have had both and also what issues do the melodious have?


 
  
 Hi GenpattonJames,
  
 Stock Breeze U8 seems to sound (overall) better than stock MX-U8, and you can ask manufacturer to mount Crystek xo's (you have to provide them).
  
 @rb2013 had some serious issues with MX-U8, one of them had short circuit in powersupply stage, and at least one of the three devices gave some
 sort of static clicks (at least that's what I thought).
  
 It seems QC is not done very adequate, I suppose they don't have QC at all, or at random in best case scenario,,,,,
  
 My device works like a charm, never had problems with it.
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## conquerator2

abartels said:


> Hi GenpattonJames,
> 
> Stock Breeze U8 seems to sound (overall) better than stock MX-U8, and you can ask manufacturer to mount Crystek xo's (you have to provide them).
> 
> ...




Can you provide a link for the Breeze U8 please?
Thank you


----------



## abartels

conquerator2 said:


> Can you provide a link for the Breeze U8 please?
> Thank you


 
  
 I will search for you, didn't order one myself, if I find it I will post it here. You need 230V or 110V version?


----------



## conquerator2

abartels said:


> I will search for you, didn't order one myself, if I find it I will post it here. You need 230V or 110V version?


 
 Thanks!
 230V please


----------



## abartels

It's on Ebay, just ask seller for 230V version and color (Black or Silver).
 If you want it directly from manufacturer, for providing them Crystek crystals, you need a Chinese middleman,,,
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/271948361421?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## conquerator2

abartels said:


> It's on Ebay, just ask seller for 230V version and color (Black or Silver).
> If you want it directly from manufacturer, for providing them Crystek crystals, you need a Chinese middleman,,,
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/271948361421?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> ...




Thanks!
If this sounds better than the U12 and MXU8, this is quite the bargain!


----------



## abartels

conquerator2 said:


> Thanks!
> If this sounds better than the U12 and MXU8, this is quite the bargain!


 
  
 I didn't compare the Breeze myself, but I trust rb2013's opinion, he says stock version Breeze is better sounding then U12 and MX-U8.
 And to be honest, pcb design and components used in Breeze looks very good!


----------



## conquerator2

Cheers.
 Do we know whether there is an audible difference between the Murata and Talema versions? Talema is quite a bit more expensive.
 Cheers!


----------



## Walderstorn

conquerator2 said:


> Cheers.
> Do we know whether there is an audible difference between the Murata and Talema versions? Talema is quite a bit more expensive.
> Cheers!


 
  
 I wanted to buy one but here in Portugal the custom taxes are ridiculous  i guess u guys dont have the same problem in Czech?


----------



## conquerator2

walderstorn said:


> I wanted to buy one but here in Portugal the custom taxes are ridiculous  i guess u guys dont have the same problem in Czech?



Sometimes... Depends on more factors (price, declared price, shipping, country of origin, etc.)
Usually less trouble with DHL/FedEx


----------



## rb2013

walderstorn said:


> I wanted to buy one but here in Portugal the custom taxes are ridiculous  i guess u guys dont have the same problem in Czech?


Just spent two weeks in Portugal! Wonderful country, bought retirement property there!

Well the Breeze is like $150, so with today's exchange rate, the 40% traiff is not too bad. I notice that most electronics like flat screens where only slightly more then the US.

I have both versions of the Breeze with the stock and Talema transformer, the Talema is worth the $20 additional cost.


----------



## conquerator2

rb2013 said:


> Just spent two weeks in Portugal! Wonderful country, bought retirement property there!
> 
> Well the Breeze is like $150, so with today's exchange rate, the 40% traiff is not too bad. I notice that most electronics like flat screens where only slightly more then the US.
> 
> *I have both versions of the Breeze with the stock and Talema transformer, the Talema is worth the $20 additional cost.*


 
 Anything in particular you feel it improves?
 It's an extra 60$ [Murata version can be had for as low as 123$, Talema is 183$].
 Thanks!


----------



## rb2013

conquerator2 said:


> Anything in particular you feel it improves?
> It's an extra 60$ [Murata version can be had for as low as 123$, Talema is 183$].
> Thanks!


Murata applies to the isolation transformers, which came in both the stock version and the upgraded one.

The Talema is an upgrade of a completely different transformer, the ac to dc power transformer.

Apples and Oranges.


----------



## conquerator2

rb2013 said:


> Murata applies to the isolation transformers, which came in both the stock version and the upgraded one.
> 
> The Talema is an upgrade of a completely different transformer, the ac to dc power transformer.
> 
> Apples and Oranges.




Ah, gotcha.
Which one does it upgrade then and do you think it even worth the 60$ difference?
Thanks!


----------



## Walderstorn

rb2013 said:


> Just spent two weeks in Portugal! Wonderful country, bought retirement property there!
> 
> Well the Breeze is like $150, so with today's exchange rate, the 40% traiff is not too bad. I notice that most electronics like flat screens where only slightly more then the US.
> 
> I have both versions of the Breeze with the stock and Talema transformer, the Talema is worth the $20 additional cost.


 
  
 You are welcome to return when u retire, just give me your address so i can rob..i mean say hi . I guess ill get the Talema version at the end of the month then.


----------



## hawkhead

Just thought I would update my purchase from Shenzhen Audio
  
 I purchased a 220V version and the box was marked as such, unfortunately it was actually 110V version and naturally died
  
 I returned the dead one, they have shipped a new one and refunded the $33 return shipping


----------



## rb2013

conquerator2 said:


> Ah, gotcha.
> Which one does it upgrade then and do you think it even worth the 60$ difference?
> Thanks!


 
 The stock one is a BingZi

  
 The upgrade a Talema:


----------



## rb2013

walderstorn said:


> You are welcome to return when u retire, just give me your address so i can rob..i mean say hi . I guess ill get the Talema version at the end of the month then.


 
 I'll be hard to find!  Hidden in the beautiful hills of Tras dos Montes.  Large olive and grape farm.


----------



## DASt

Hi!
 I Have Theta DSPro Gen V-a.
 Use it Gustard U12 with AES.
 Sound impressive. Do you had U12 before or you just buy MX-U8 ?
 I want to know is it much better then U12 with Theta.
  
 Regards.
 Dmitry.


----------



## abartels

dast said:


> Hi!
> I Have Theta DSPro Gen V-a.
> Use it Gustard U12 with AES.
> Sound impressive. Do you had U12 before or you just buy MX-U8 ?
> ...


 
 Hello DASt,
  
 I had U12 before and modified it with NDK's and caps. Modified it sounded better than stock MX-U8, but stock U12 definitely sounds less than stock MX-U8.
  
 The Breeze DU8 seems the way to go for the moment, ask rb2013 for his impressions. If you want the best buy the Hydra-Z (or my modified MX-U8 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## ccschua

TAMLY Audio seems to be quiet.
  
 but if the power supply uses adp15X it wont be impressive.


----------



## Padawan38

Hello
  
 I'm looking for a transport in the less than 200$ range.
 I have read good things about the *Breeze **DU-U8*  with Talema transformer ...... What is the best one ?
  
 Thank you very much
  
 Rgds
 P


----------



## conquerator2

padawan38 said:


> Hello
> 
> I'm looking for a transport in the less than 200$ range.
> I have read good things about the *Breeze DU-U8  with Talema transformer* ...... What is the best one ?
> ...


 
 There's only one


----------



## ccschua

it seems i cant get any more mx-u8 drivers. the shenzenaudio download is down. can anyone share mx-u8 drivers download site .


----------



## hgpsemaj

*Extract from its official website:*
  
 新版对电源和时钟电路加以优化，晶振也使用独立的整流和稳压，取消旧版的光纤输出，改为BNC输出，机内加入110V/220V开关(台湾荣丰)，机箱也重新设计，铝型材加厚，电路板和机箱已经在厂家加工，预计本月下旬发货，由于上述改动带来成本的上涨，大概120元左右，所以价格也会跟着上调
  
  
*Google Translate:*
  
 The new version to be optimized for power and clock circuitry, crystal also use a separate rectifier and regulator, cancel the old optical fiber output, to BNC output, adding 110V / 220V switch (Taiwan Rongfeng) inside the machine, the chassis also redesigned aluminum thickened, circuit boards and chassis have been working in the factory, it is expected to ship later this month, due to the rising costs brought about these changes, probably around 120 yuan, the price increases will follow
  
  
 Regards,


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> it seems i cant get any more mx-u8 drivers. the shenzenaudio download is down. can anyone share mx-u8 drivers download site .


 
 see PM


----------



## MINORISUKE

ccschua said:


> it seems i cant get any more mx-u8 drivers. the shenzenaudio download is down. can anyone share mx-u8 drivers download site .


 
 Go to Melodious site.  It is not difficult to find the download link, even if you do not understand Chinese.
http://world.taobao.com/item/44130453324.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.zFRs1L#detail
 Shenzhen Audio's page for MX-U8 seems to be down intentionally to prepare the next version coming at the end of this month.


----------



## vincponc2610

Sounds good, they are moving toward the Breeze implementation of separate regulator for crystals.
 I hope they could make a version with either NDK or crystek.
 And using better regulators.


----------



## ahendler

I am not really a DIY guy so I do not get a lot of info from you guys but I have read all the pages of this thread. I use a McBook Pro
 running Amerro for Tidal. I use Jitterbug/Lightspeed 10g USB cable/Regen wih ouboard linear supply into  a Audio-GD Master 7 dac. All in all a very good sounding chain. I stumbled onto your discussions of the Gustard, and  Melodius devices.  Ordered the Gustard and fed the Master 7  with a Mogami xlr cable.  Fuller richer sound then the Amenero USB input in the Master 7. Wanted to try I2S but my Mster 7 has a RJ45 I2S input. Ordered a  Breeze. Worked fine with XLR connection. Connected with Eithernet cable to try I2S. No sound  and Breeze no longer works. Computerl no longer sees Breeze. Might have fried the XMOS. I have now ordered the Melodius It will be a few weeks till I get it. Will only use XLR. I am really enjoing the Gustard.
  
 Alan


----------



## Wildcatsare1

Hey Guys, hopefully a simple issue. Had had MX-U8 hooked up, working great. Disconected the unit and now I can't get my MacBook (El Capitan) to recognize the unit. Have cycled the power on/off on both the MX-U8 and MacBook, any ideas? Thx!


----------



## m0reilly

heck dubya, was it reconnected to the same usb port?  love your sig


----------



## Wildcatsare1

m0reilly said:


> heck dubya, was it reconnected to the same usb port?  love your sig




It was.....then to the second with no avail.....


----------



## hgpsemaj

The new look of MX-U8:
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  

  
  
 RRP at RMB1,180.00 excluding any postage and shipping cost.


----------



## abartels

Looks good, seperate supply for xtals, big contender for breeze? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Still one transformer,,,,,
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## ccschua

SINCE there are 3 options for BU-U8, is the SITIME crystal a better option than the gold plated TCXO as recommended by the manufacturer?


----------



## ahendler

I have a Gustard u-12 feeding a Audio-GD Master 7. Ordered a Breeze. The one I got lasted about 8 hours before failing and will not work ordered a second breeze. It works nice but does not seem to be able to handle the Classicsonline HD-LL Hi Rez files such as 24/192 0r 24/176. Sounds very nice for 16/44 streaming. I cannot really say at this point if it is better or different from the Gustard. I also have a new version Melodius-X8 coming. When it comes and everything is burned in I will try to do a comparison of the 3 USB converters as well as the built in Amanero 345 in the Master 7
 Alan


----------



## abartels

Hello guys,
  
 I decided to build my own dac with an I2S-Only USB interface.
  
 It will be based on isloated I2S module (isolated means: all datalines isolated) including seperate psu for usb-xmos and 2 seperate psu's for crystals (NDK SD's).
 PSU's will be fed with seperate R-Core transformers, just like I did in my "Monster MX-U8", and R-Cores will be fed by seperate EMI/RFI filters.
 NDK's will share 1x R-Core
  
 Dac will be based on AK4495SEQ with ALL psu lines fed independently, so for every powerline there will be a seperate psu, fed by a seperate R-Core, fed by a seperate EMI/RFI filter.
  
 It will have 9x R-Core transformers (6x DAC - 1x Output stage - 1x Crystals - 1x USB/XMOS) , 9 EMI/RFI filters and 10 psu's.
  
  
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## ahendler

ahendler said:


> I have a Gustard u-12 feeding a Audio-GD Master 7. Ordered a Breeze. The one I got lasted about 8 hours before failing and will not work ordered a second breeze. It works nice but does not seem to be able to handle the Classicsonline HD-LL Hi Rez files such as 24/192 0r 24/176. Sounds very nice for 16/44 streaming. I cannot really say at this point if it is better or different from the Gustard. I also have a new version Melodius-X8 coming. When it comes and everything is burned in I will try to do a comparison of the 3 USB converters as well as the built in Amanero 345 in the Master 7
> Alan


 
 I received the Melodius X8 yesterday. Out of the box it is  best I have heard. I will now burn it in for 100 hours and then have to do the Breeze
 I will then try to do a comparison of all the USB inputs. I do want to say putting burn in aside all of these devices sound very, very good
 Alan


----------



## m0reilly

abartels said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> I decided to build my own dac with an I2S-Only USB interface.
> 
> ...


 

 yeah baby yeah! this!!!


----------



## abartels

m0reilly said:


> yeah baby yeah! this!!!


----------



## ccschua

for some unexplain reason, my MX-U8 ver 1.5 just went dead.
  
 I tried all kinds of troubleshoot, the USB just cant detect that the unit is connected. I suspect the U8 is probably static shock ?


----------



## ahendler

ahendler said:


> I received the Melodius X8 yesterday. Out of the box it is  best I have heard. I will now burn it in for 100 hours and then have to do the Breeze
> I will then try to do a comparison of all the USB inputs. I do want to say putting burn in aside all of these devices sound very, very good
> Alan


 
 I have been using the AES/EBU output from the Melodius to my Master7
 I wanted to try the I2S connection since both the Melodius and Master7 inplement I2S using
 A J45 connection. but was not sure if the pin designations were the same. On the Melodius site they show the pin defines
 I e-mailed them to Audio-GD and they said the pin layouts were the same. I hooked it up with a generic Ethernet cable
 and it works great and sounds great. It did not work with the Breeze. Will all Ethernet cables sound the same or not?. Can you guys recommend a really good cable
 Alan


----------



## hgpsemaj

ahendler said:


> I have been using the AES/EBU output from the Melodius to my Master7
> I wanted to try the I2S connection since both the Melodius and Master7 inplement I2S using
> A J45 connection. but was not sure if the pin designations were the same. On the Melodius site they show the pin defines
> I e-mailed them to Audio-GD and they said the pin layouts were the same. I hooked it up with a generic Ethernet cable
> ...


 
  
 Breeze Audio recommends the length of RJ45, the shorter the better.
  
  
伍汝新:伟坚

越短越好


----------



## abartels

m0reilly said:


> yeah baby yeah! this!!!


 
  
 Some pics to get you guys a little bit warmed-up 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  




  
  
 Next step is to mount all the filters, R-Cores and psu's, a lot of cabling,,,,,
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## motberg

hgpsemaj said:


> Breeze Audio recommends the length of RJ45, the shorter the better.
> 
> 
> 伍汝新:伟坚
> ...


 
 +1 on the short recommendation... Audio GD offers some generic ones.
  
 http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/dac/DI2014/DI2014EN_Custom.htm
  
 PPA offers 60CM, very well reviewed..  
  
 http://ppaproduct.blogspot.tw/2014/05/tz-yun-red-i2s-cable.html
  
 I also used a 30CM CAT7 from Taobao briefly....


----------



## hgpsemaj

motberg said:


> +1 on the short recommendation... Audio GD offers some generic ones.
> 
> http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/dac/DI2014/DI2014EN_Custom.htm
> 
> ...


 
  
  
  
 diyinhk recommends the length of RJ45/I2S is not supposedly longer than 10cm. We also know this I2S socket must not be hot pull or pushed.
  
 I just wonder is this I2S concept purposely designed for external use.
  
  
  
  
 Regards,


----------



## ccschua

Hi Alex,
  
 this is incredible. what PSU is that and the choke used ?
  
 what sort of connector are you using and how limit cable length to avoid coupling.
  
 rgds


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> Hi Alex,
> 
> this is incredible. what PSU is that and the choke used ?
> 
> ...


 
 Hi ccschua,
  
 All psu's are diyinhk 0.8 uV ultra low noise psu's, with little mods.
 Not sure what kind of connectors you mean, the ones on the DAC or on the psu's or filters? All screw terminals on the psu's and filters.
 Chokes are all chinese made, they would be rather expensive to buy abroad!
  
 Cable length won't be a problem, from psu's to dac will be relatively short and will be twisted and shielded.
 From filters to transformers all is twisted (with earthwire)
  
 Btw, using 9 pieces 1A EMI/RFI filters for R-Cores and 1x 2A EMI/RFI filter in total for whole dac.


----------



## ccschua

hi alex
  
 since the casing is full of boards and tranny, how do you plan to connect to the DAC ? using which connector ? DIN 8pin ?
  
 how did you hook up the 1A EMI/RFI filter ? before the transformer or after ? can you point me the taobao link ?
  
 isnt the choke in diyinhk does the same thing ?
  
 this is really ultimate.
  
 rgds


----------



## abartels

Hi ccschua,
  
 There will be all twisted wires from the psu's to the dac, directly, no special connectors needed. Maybe I will use Molex connectors later on, for the moment
 I will use sinmple "Jumper-like" connectors since I don't want to solder on the DAC terminals.
  
  
 The filters are 230V EMI/RFI filters and they will be connected before the R-Cores. And yes, the chokes on the diyinhk psu's are comparable (different brand).
  
  
 I hope I can finish the dac today, not sure though because it's a lot of connecting to realise.
  
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## wwmhf

abartels said:


> Some pics to get you guys a little bit warmed-up
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Never saw so many transformers in one box???!!!


----------



## abartels

abartels said:


> Some pics to get you guys a little bit warmed-up
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Never saw so many transformers in one box???!!!
  
  
 I never saw that too, that is why I did build this monster myself 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Today, after 6 days of burn-in time, finally listening to my DAC.
  
 I only can say this: It's ALIEN, it fills the room with music, live like, nothing more to wish for it seems!!!!!!
  

  
 I made a miscalculation, DAC psu for output stage needs 2x 15V, and NOT a transformer with a center pole, so I had to exchange the USB-R-Core for a second 15-0-15V R-Core.
 This means I will have to order a new 2x 15V R-Core and built it in later. For the moment I use external 5V for USB (battery)
  

  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## ccschua

congrats.
  
 this is really great. can I bring a suggestion. why not consider a isolating tranny (R-core) for the digital and analog circuits each. it can be a 1 to 1 tranny.


----------



## abartels

Good thinking, would love to add 2 osolation R-Cores, but those wouldn't fit in this enclosure. Maybe next DAC project  

Regards, 

Alex


----------



## ccschua

with the 1 to 1 Rcore, i dont think the EMI/RFI filter is required, especially if the isolation trans has earthing cable.


----------



## abartels

NOT goog thinking.
  
 What I tried to accomplish with this DAC was to "completely" get rid of EMI/RFI. An isolation transformer in addition could bring better performance.
  
  
 It's like saying:  I've got a fruit bowl with appels in it, now I put some pears in it an get rid of the appels........
  
  
 I tried to decouple every single R-Core and PSU since EMI/RFI can loop back thru PSU and interfere with the other psu's.
 The psu's by themselves have EMI/RFI filters, the addition of the EMI/RFI filters before the R-Cores will also act as a barrier
 for EMI/RFI to travel back to other R-Cores and psu's.
  
 If using only 2 isolation transformers, one for Digital and one for Analog, it wouldn't decouple the Digital and Analog psu's from eachother.
  
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## ccschua

is there a room for concerns with dynamics and resolution with the additional inductors and capacitors networks ?


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> is there a room for concerns with dynamics and resolution with the additional inductors and capacitors networks ?


 
  
 No concerns, it sounds Heavenly, not to say it seems as if it's Alien, thát good it is,,,,,,
  
  
*Not talking about soundstage or tonal balance or dynamics or deep tight lows or anything like that anymore, those words and expressions don't count anymore....*


----------



## ccschua

that is a super power supply. again its the highest quality and neat workmanship on display.


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> that is a super power supply. again its the highest quality and neat workmanship on display.


 
  
 Thank you for your kindest comments 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Btw, I am planning to "go commercial" with this design since it surpasses all expectations I had 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It will be designed "as is", USB ONLY, standard version 230V, can be manufactured for 115V market too, not switchable between 230V and 115V though.
 Not sure about it's weight, it supposedly weighs about 15Kg 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 For the ones who are interested, send me PM.
  
 Btw. Member Prot wil probably the first Head-Fi member who will have the opportunity to listen to it during the carnaval holidays when visiting him 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## prot

Getti





abartels said:


> Thank you for your kindest comments :bigsmile_face:
> 
> Btw, I am planning to "go commercial" with this design since it surpasses all expectations I had :wink_face:
> It will be designed "as is", USB ONLY, standard version 230V, can be manufactured for 115V market too, not switchable between 230V and 115V though.
> ...



Getting ready


----------



## abartels

prot said:


> Getti
> Getting ready


 
  
 Putting the beers cold already?


----------



## m0reilly

abartels said:


> Btw, I am planning to "go commercial" with this design since it surpasses all expectations I had
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## prot

abartels said:


> Putting the beers cold already? :wink_face: :bigsmile_face:




neah .. putting the cables on cryo


----------



## abartels

abartels said:


> Btw, I am planning to "go commercial" with this design since it surpasses all expectations I had
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 I think if you want to build something like this yourself, it's easiest to buy the goods yourself, otherwise transport costs are way too high, and I am not planning to be some sort of components supplier 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 NO I2S in, I use, at least what I think it is, the best USB to I2S pcb available today, built-in DAC with the shortest wires possible, it's much better than external I2S.
  
 I agree, I love the weight


----------



## abartels

prot said:


> neah .. putting the cables on cryo


 
  
 Hahahaha, ok 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Good plan


----------



## abartels

btw, just put in the 10th R-Core and 11th EMI/RFI filter for XMOS/USB power, there was a little space left since I didn't need a softstart module 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 No need for external supply for powering USB


----------



## abartels

Now with 10 R-Cores and 11 EMI/RFI filters


----------



## ccschua

I do not know what have happen to my MX-U8. it just can not be recognized at all. 
  
 I have checked the 5V and 3.3V supply (which is stable) and everything is normal.
  
 I have reinstall the driver but the player can not be detected. 
  
 can I know how to trouble further ? is it the USB connection at the board or the XMOS chip is dead on static ?


----------



## rb2013

abartels said:


> Now with 10 R-Cores and 11 EMI/RFI filters


 

 Beautiful!  Good luck Alex!


----------



## abartels

ccschua said:


> I do not know what have happen to my MX-U8. it just can not be recognized at all.
> 
> I have checked the 5V and 3.3V supply (which is stable) and everything is normal.
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Did you restart pc after deinstalling old driver? And restart again after installing? Did you try a different USB-port?


----------



## abartels

rb2013 said:


> Beautiful!  Good luck Alex!


 
  
  
 Thank you Bob, he really does sound spectacular


----------



## b0bb

abartels said:


> Thank you Bob, he really does sound spectacular


 

 ^ What Bob said...
  
 Beautiful job.


----------



## abartels

b0bb said:


> ^ What Bob said...
> 
> Beautiful job.


 
  
 Thanks b0bb


----------



## 3Marshes

Hi There...been watching Head-Fi for some time and learning.  Have been buying and experimenting. Your approach seems awesome. How much would an eval or one-off (your call) be?  Sorry if I missed this nuance is there a separate LPS requirement?


----------



## 3Marshes

A newbie..Guys I'm struggling with my experimental set - MBP El Capitain =>Breeze DU-U8 =>Gustard DACX12 via RCA to HPhone amp works. MBP El Capitain =>Breeze DU-U8 =>Gustard DACX12 via Mogami Gold XLR on AES to HPhone amp does not work nor does via Optical.  I suspect I need to load DU-US driver.  Does anyone have an electronic copy or a download link forsaid driver?  Thanks!


----------



## abartels

3Marshes,
  
 About my approach, are you pointing to MX-U8 ar to my dac? 
  
  
 I didn't or do own a Breeze, please ask rb2013 for a driver on the Gustard U12 forum, ok?
  
  
 Regards,
 Alex


----------



## hgpsemaj

This is the latest driver for Breeze Audio DU-U8:
  
http://yun.baidu.com/share/link?shareid=1612015194&uk=155645262
  
  
*or*
  
  
http://yun.baidu.com/share/link?shareid=2911941438&uk=155645262


----------



## 3Marshes

Hi Alex and hgpsemaj - Thanks for speedy responses!.  I will try the links.
  
 Yes @Alex: I was referring to your DAC approach - I see you mentioned going commercial - I'd be interested for sure!  Thanks!


----------



## 3Marshes

Hi Hgpsemaj - both links are for windows - is there a MAC version of the drivers?  thanks


----------



## hgpsemaj

3marshes said:


> Hi Hgpsemaj - both links are for windows - is there a MAC version of the drivers?  thanks


 
  
 MAC doesn't need additional driver, it would load automatically.


----------



## abartels

Hi 3Marshes,
  
  
 Yes I will go commercial and am preparing and calculating. Would you need 230V or 115V version?
 I have a team already set up for assembling (it takes several days to accomplish one,,,)
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## 3Marshes

115V


----------



## abartels

115V is possible, please read PM


----------



## 3Marshes

Yeah... I read as much. I'm not having luck with the U8.
  
 I have 2 brand new DU-U8s, 3 Mogami Gold AES cables, 1 off-brand optical cable and a brand new Gustard DAC X12, and the filtered USB cables that came with the DU and DAC. Tried each and exhausted the possible permutations. BTW all this going to a Headphone tube amp.  The only path that works with either of the DU-U8s is MBP-USB-U8 via RCA-DAC-amp.  The DAC occasionally syncs up and keeps sync with either U8 on AES as well as on Optical.  When it keeps the sync I get audio at the headphone.  The DAC, amp and U8 are being fed filtered power by Weiduka audio AC8.8.
  
 MBP-USB direct to the DAC-amp works as well. Output from the DAC to the amp is via RCA cables. My objective is to quench USB noise as before getting to the DAC.  In the end I will get a high grade PRE and POST Tube Amplifier set  and want to have the data process upfront figured out before buying the final amp set.  
  
 I hoping Alex's machine [  ] may be a better route..
 Thanks!


----------



## abartels

3marshes said:


> Yeah... I read as much. I'm not having luck with the U8.
> 
> I have 2 brand new DU-U8s, 3 Mogami Gold AES cables, 1 off-brand optical cable and a brand new Gustard DAC X12, and the filtered USB cables that came with the DU and DAC. Tried each and exhausted the possible permutations. BTW all this going to a Headphone tube amp.  The only path that works with either of the DU-U8s is MBP-USB-U8 via RCA-DAC-amp.  The DAC occasionally syncs up and keeps sync with either U8 on AES as well as on Optical.  When it keeps the sync I get audio at the headphone.  The DAC, amp and U8 are being fed filtered power by Weiduka audio AC8.8.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hello 3Marshes,
  
 With reading PM i meant: You have a private message 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
 What combinations do NOT work at your setup? Does it not sync occasionally? Tried a different USB port on you MacBook Pro?
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## 3Marshes

Yes tnx Alex I read your PM and replied...
  
 I've tried both USB ports on my MBP (El Capitain v10.11.2).  Tried iTunes, Pure Music and Audivarna Plus as players - also tried Media Center. Following do NOT work
  
 1) MBP via any USB port => either U8 => via any of 3 new Mogami Gold AES => DAC X12 =>RCA => amp
 2) MBP via any USB port => either U8 => via Optical => DAC X12 =>RCA => amp
  
 I have tried various power on sequences starting from the amp backwards to the MBP, the MBP forward through to the amp, power the U8 first before the DAC and the DAC  before the U8.
  
 Just before this reply I did the following....On power on neither path of 1 or 2 above sync up. I then switch the Sound to xCore USB Audio and cycle through the DAC ports no sync up. I then bring up iTunes and play anything. No sync still and no sound.  I then kill iTunes and bring up Audivarna Plus and play anything and AES sync is now up and I get sound at the headphone.  If I wait a while the sound will go away and no matter what I play next ( file format type) I get no sound and the DAC shows Sync stays up.  I got sound to play for about 3mins then it just stopped the sync went down. I played the exact same song and the AES resync'd but no sound
  
 Interestingly when I try MediaCenter several times I get no sync but once in a while I get AES to sync and the DAC shows 96K not 44.1K. But no sound
  
 Same thing on either of the MBP USB ports.
  
 So I think I can say the MBP is seeing beyond the U8 but not consistently or "accurately".


----------



## abartels

3marshes said:


> Yes tnx Alex I read your PM and replied...
> 
> I've tried both USB ports on my MBP (El Capitain v10.11.2).  Tried iTunes, Pure Music and Audivarna Plus as players - also tried Media Center. Following do NOT work
> 
> ...


 
  
 Does your mains socket in wall has ground? Are both DU-U8 and X12 have ground?


----------



## 3Marshes

Power on wall has Ground => Weiduka Audio Power Filter AC8.8 provides 6 Euro plugs and 4 US plugs all with ground presumably.  DAC, DU-U8 and Amp are plugged into the AC8.8.  The MBP is not plugged into the Power Filter but instead to the wall.
  
 went back to testing with Media Center 21.  AES Syncs at 96K w/o music playing.  It switched to 44.1K when music is playing.  It stops on its own and if I switch the DU-U* off and then back on I can start the music again. Weird.  At this point Im pretty much stopping the tests with the Breeze DU-U8s.  Gentlemen thanks for you help with the DU-U8s.  They're going back to the vendor.


----------



## abartels

3marshes said:


> Power on wall has Ground => Weiduka Audio Power Filter AC8.8 provides 6 Euro plugs and 4 US plugs all with ground presumably.  DAC, DU-U8 and Amp are plugged into the AC8.8.  The MBP is not plugged into the Power Filter but instead to the wall.
> 
> went back to testing with Media Center 21.  AES Syncs at 96K w/o music playing.  It switched to 44.1K when music is playing.  It stops on its own and if I switch the DU-U* off and then back on I can start the music again. Weird.  At this point Im pretty much stopping the tests with the Breeze DU-U8s.  Gentlemen thanks for you help with the DU-U8s.  They're going back to the vendor.


 
  
 I am not a MAC user, but I am recognizing this problem, it is related to buffer settings and latency settings in your software or driver.
 Normally you should increase buffer settings, then it should work.
  
 I had with MX-U8 best results when setting buffer settings AND latency at lowest setting (minimum) in Thesycon driver.
 Sadly this can't be set in normal Xmos driver. 
  
 For my dac I have to modify a thesycon driver too, didn't arrange that until now.
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## 3Marshes

I have not tried that yet...I searched for a place to do this and so far have not found a native MAC OS lace to do it...Each player however has something in this area - I'll look into it and try it otherwise its adios to the DU-U8s in time to meet a return deadline.
  
 Thanks Alex


----------



## 3Marshes

I think I may have figured out why the music stops but the sync appears to still be hot...today its happened each time my Air Conditioner cranked up - SPIKE (lights dim etc.) ...which means my Weiduka Power Filter may be crap ;-(  - it too is new and not cheap.


----------



## abartels

3marshes said:


> I think I may have figured out why the music stops but the sync appears to still be hot...today its happened each time my Air Conditioner cranked up - SPIKE (lights dim etc.) ...which means my Weiduka Power Filter may be crap ;-(  - it too is new and not cheap.


 
  
 Hmm, that's not good, need better power filtering, see my dac, hahahaha
 Maybe try a seperate filter for your DU-Ud, or, did you try With your Mackbooc Pro on battery instead of connected to mains???


----------



## 3Marshes

yeah...you may be onto something there - i could also try to put the MBP on the Power filter as see if it continues to happen...clearly if I were smarter I'd call an electrician to check the mains  - the lights should not be dimming if the mains box if fitted properly for my load....


----------



## ginetto61

Hi Guys !
 thanks a lot sincerely for the very very interesting sharing of knowhow
 Sorry to jump in but i have a question
  
_*Melodious (stock)     versus    Breeze Audio DU-U8 (stock)*_
  
 who wins ?
 I have the Melodious and evaluating the buy of the Breeze Audio DU-U8
 Are on a par ? will the Breeze Audio DU-U8 give me a better sound (without mods i mean).
 Thanks again
 Kind regards,  gino


----------



## MINORISUKE

ginetto61 said:


> .....
> 
> _*Melodious (stock)     versus    Breeze Audio DU-U8 (stock)*_
> 
> ...


 
 I have MX-U8 ver1.7, the latest.  Which version do you have?
 There is a huge difference between the previous versions and the current 1.7.
 For me, DU-U8 is no choice, as it does not have DSDOE (PCM/DSD signal) from its I2S (RJ45) output.


----------



## ginetto61

minorisuke said:


> I have MX-U8 ver1.7, the latest.  Which version do you have?
> There is a huge difference between the previous versions and the current 1.7.
> For me, DU-U8 is no choice, as it does not have DSDOE (PCM/DSD signal) from its I2S (RJ45) output.


 
  
 Hi ! this one here ...
  
http://cdn.head-fi.org/4/45/350x700px-LL-457bb9a9_TB2BrNfcXXXXXbmXXXXXXXXXXXX_647667811.jpeg
  

  
 I am not interested in High Rez formats.  I need only 16/48 max.
 Thanks, gino


----------



## MINORISUKE

ginetto61 said:


> Hi ! this one here ...
> 
> http://cdn.head-fi.org/4/45/350x700px-LL-457bb9a9_TB2BrNfcXXXXXbmXXXXXXXXXXXX_647667811.jpeg
> .....


 
 If the internal board looks exactly the same as this picture, then it is ver1.5.
 The current 1.7 is as follows:
https://img.alicdn.com/imgextra/i2/647667811/TB234ZuhFXXXXb6XpXXXXXXXXXX_!!647667811.jpg


----------



## ginetto61

minorisuke said:


> If the internal board looks exactly the same as this picture, then it is ver1.5.
> The current 1.7 is as follows:
> https://img.alicdn.com/imgextra/i2/647667811/TB234ZuhFXXXXb6XpXXXXXXXXXX_!!647667811.jpg


 
 Hi Yes ! exactly the same as the one in the picture.  I understand mine is the old version. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Bought it some months ago.
 I have mostly used it via AES and liked it a lot.  Very musical sound and low noise.
 In which aspects the newer one is better ?
  
 I would like to add that i have been very impressed by the improvements that mods can provide to these units.
 There are very talented people here.  Congratulations.
 Thanks again, gino


----------



## wwmhf

minorisuke said:


> If the internal board looks exactly the same as this picture, then it is ver1.5.
> The current 1.7 is as follows:
> https://img.alicdn.com/imgextra/i2/647667811/TB234ZuhFXXXXb6XpXXXXXXXXXX_!!647667811.jpg


 
  
 The internal board of Ver1.6 is similar to that of Ver1.5


----------



## wwmhf

ginetto61 said:


> Hi Guys !
> thanks a lot sincerely for the very very interesting sharing of knowhow
> Sorry to jump in but i have a question
> 
> ...


 
  
 I cannot not provide any feedback about the comparison because I do not have the Melodious. However, I have the Breeze that serves me satisfactorily for listening to CDs. My system of
  
 external DVD player -> PC -> Breeze Audio DU-U8 -> DAC 
  
 is my best CD playing system now, beating all of my CD/SACD players, some of which were around $1000 in their popular days.


----------



## ginetto61

wwmhf said:


> I cannot not provide any feedback about the comparison because I do not have the Melodious.
> However, I have the Breeze that serves me satisfactorily for listening to CDs. My system of
> external DVD player -> PC -> Breeze Audio DU-U8 -> DAC
> is my best CD playing system now, beating all of my CD/SACD players, some of which were around $1000 in their popular days.


 
  
 Hi ! thanks a lot for your valuable advice.
 So the Breeze Audio is truly good.
 Actually i have no particular complain about the old Melodious that i have found a little better in my system than the Gustard U12 (both in stock version without mods).
 Quite understandable as it is also more expensive than the Gustard, a nice unit by itself.
 I will keep on reading the reviews for now.
_*I would like to try some of the power supply mods depicted here and in other threads ... but parts are so tiny ... smd parts.*_
_*I am sure that these mods could give benefits in terms of noise. *_
 I have the feeling i have some noise coming from the mains because listening with HPs during the night the sound is better.
 I guess during the night there is less pollution in the mains.
 I do not like at all toroidals in the PS.  I have my personal nightmares and toroidals are one of this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Thanks a lot again
 Kind regards,
 gino


----------



## murphythecat

ahendler said:


> I received the Melodius X8 yesterday. Out of the box it is  best I have heard. I will now burn it in for 100 hours and then have to do the Breeze
> I will then try to do a comparison of all the USB inputs. I do want to say putting burn in aside all of these devices sound very, very good
> Alan


 
 any news?


----------



## abartels

seems U12 thread has been locked,,,,,,


----------



## FredA

abartels said:


> seems U12 thread has been locked,,,,,,




Yes. I feel a bit responsible for deviating the subject in this thead. Not on purpose.

Now i would really like to hear about the new mx-u8 vs the breeze. The new mx-u8 seems to be better made, especially the chassis. That parts are very similar. If the breeze is still on top, it would be just because of circuit design. There is nothing like a good pair of ears to decide.


----------



## wwmhf

freda said:


> Yes. I feel a bit responsible for deviating the subject in this thead. Not on purpose.
> 
> Now i would really like to hear about the new mx-u8 vs the breeze. The new mx-u8 seems to be better made, especially the chassis. That parts are very similar. If the breeze is still on top, it would be just because of circuit design. There is nothing like a good pair of ears to decide.


 
  
 I do not any experience with mx-u8. But I really like the Breeze.
  
 I bought the Breeze in the top configuration. It revitalized my old DAC (MSB Link DAC 3, a full DIY Nelson mod) so that I am enjoying my CDs like I never heard them before.


----------



## FredA

wwmhf said:


> I do not any experience with mx-u8. But I really like the Breeze.
> 
> I bought the Breeze in the top configuration. It revitalized my old DAC (MSB Link DAC 3, a full DIY Nelson mod) so that I am enjoying my CDs like I never heard them before.




I really like the breeze too. I have the deluxe as well. My connection to it is from mac mini to audioquest jitterbug to schiit wyrd. And i use the i2s output to a master-7. Sounds just great. There is just a hint of harshness left on the female voice, but just on specific recordings. It sounds simlply amazing. There are better converter on the market, for sure, but not so many and much more expensive or without i2s. This one makes music sound real in my setup.


----------



## ginetto61

Good morning to Everyone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



*Who is using the Melodious MX-U8 USB via its AES out ?  With which dac ?*
 I have tried both the spdif and the AES and prefer the AES link (cable a cheap Canare from ebay).
 I got the impression that the sound with the AES link is more relaxed, less "electric" but still with all the detail in place.
 In conclusion ... *does the AES connection pay dividends in terms of overall musicality ?*
 Thanks a lot.
 Have a nice day,   gino


----------



## prot

ginetto61 said:


> Good morning to Everyone
> *Who is using the Melodious MX-U8 USB via its AES out ?  With which dac ?*
> I have tried both the spdif and the AES and prefer the AES link (cable a cheap Canare from ebay).
> I got the impression that the sound with the AES link is more relaxed, less "electric" but still with all the detail in place.
> ...



The advantage of the AES (at least in theory) is that it's better at sending weak signals over long distances .. think microphone cables in music studios. In theory, if your ddc to dac connection is shorter than 2 meters there should not be any audible differences between aes & coax. 

On my u12 I did not hear any diff between aes and coaxial (both ~1m long). But the signal quality depends on a lot of factors: e.g. your Dac's Aes input may be better than the coaxial input. So your mileage may vary considerably and unless you find someone with the exact same gear, their impressions will not be very relevant to your setup. 

And btw, Canare makes very good cables which are build to spec (i.e. 110 ohm impedance for digital aes cables) and widely used in many studios .. I wont worry about those.


----------



## ginetto61

prot said:


> The advantage of the AES (at least in theory) is that it's better at sending weak signals over long distances .. think microphone cables in music studios.





> In theory, if your ddc to dac connection is *shorter than 2 meters *there should not be any audible differences between aes & coax.
> On my u12 I did not hear any diff between aes and coaxial (both ~1m long).


 
  
 Good afternoon !  thanks a lot for the very kind and helpful advice.
 Yes. The cable is 1.5 meter long.  I was reading about a better noise rejection of the balanced connection and about the fact that the AES signal is higher V than spdif and this should lead to a better S/N ratio.   But as you say this could be evident only for long cables in noise polluted environment.
  


> But the signal quality depends on a lot of factors: e.g. your Dac's Aes input may be better than the coaxial input.
> So your mileage may vary considerably and unless you find someone with the exact same gear, their impressions will not be very relevant to your setup.


 
  
 I have an *Apogee Rosetta 200 *that i think it is the best one.  Then i have also a Hegel HD10 but without AES input unfortunately. Only spdif.
 Then i have also a cheap Behringer src2496 in another place with also AES but i have still to test it.  It is cheap.
 I tried the Melodious with the Apogee via AES.  The best sound i have ever got at home. Via spdif the sound was also quite good but still AES sounded more relaxed to me.
 Quote:


> And btw, Canare makes very good cables which are build to spec (i.e. 110 ohm impedance for digital aes cables) and widely used in many studios .. I wont worry about those.


 
  
 Very good !  i have the cheapest from Canare i guess (i.e. DA202).   Actually i am using it also for analog XLR connections and it works fine also for that.
 Thanks a lot again. 
 Regards, gino


----------



## prot

Before the U12 thread went funky I had an unaswered driver questions there .. since this is the only active DDC thread maybe you guys can help me.
A few people mentioned a 3.xx Xmos driver for the Breeze. *Does anyone know if there is an equivalent XMOS 3.xx driver for the U12? (Latest I know is 2.26)*

P.S.
Sorry everyone for my role in the u12-thread story, I certainly didnt want that thread closed. I own & enjoy an U12 and got a lot of useful info from that thread .. including from rb2013 (btw, if you read this maybe you can pm me and I'm sure we can take care of whatever made you so angry.) 
Anyway .. hope this thread will live a long life and be much friendlier to people with different gear, ears, experience & opinions.


----------



## abartels

prot said:


> Before the U12 thread went funky I had an unaswered driver questions there .. since this is the only active DDC thread maybe you guys can help me.
> A few people mentioned a 3.xx Xmos driver for the Breeze. *Does anyone know if there is an equivalent XMOS 3.xx driver for the U12? (Latest I know is 2.26)*
> 
> P.S.
> ...


 
  
 Can happen, no sweat 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 , we're all on a learning curve, that's why we call ourselves human 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 You could try to port the 3.0 driver to the Breeze, change the UID/PID's
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## abartels

Btw, did you guys heard of, and maybe demoed Acoustic Revive RR-777 / RR-888
  
https://www.acoustic-revive.com/english/roomtuning/rr-77.html
  
 There's a Patend pending, hmm, just received my own designed pcb's today,,,,,, not sure if they can sue me because I use different schematics, different Chip,,,,,,


----------



## abartels

Just build the Schumann resonator, first listening test is disappointing, no difference at full power, at 7m listening position from my speakers with SR at 2m hight in-between speakers,
 but also no difference when SR is sitting next to me on the couch 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Will test more this week, but for now it's getting a no go for me.
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## prot

Btw, here's the new must-have device
http://intona.eu/en/products
USB isolator for 2.0 with full 480mbs compatibility. According to various threads it's the new king of Usb .. the CA people are especially wow wow .. but then, those guys are like 'wow wow night&day' about any new device. 

Since I never heard diffs from any of the Usb cables & gadgets I ever tested, I wont pay the bill. But maybe someone does and posts a few impressions.

P.S.
the aussies seem to have a similar isolator too but not sure if it was relesed 
http://www.silanna.com/usb.html


----------



## abartels

prot said:


> Btw, here's the new must-have device
> http://intona.eu/en/products
> USB isolator for 2.0 with full 480mbs compatibility. According to various threads it's the new king of Usb .. the CA people are especially wow wow .. but then, those guys are like 'wow wow night&day' about any new device.
> 
> ...


 
  
 USB isolation indeed is important, tested several options when designing my dac, and yes, it sounds very different, isolation is the way to go for.
 Wil inquire at Silanna if they have it available.
  
 Thanks for the link,
  
 Regards,
  
  
 Alex


----------



## ahendler

with my MacBook Pro to Melodius to Master 7 a jitterbug, Disruptor and Regan. The jitterbug made no change in sound. The disruptor no change. The Regen with an external power supply a very small but noticeable change. Tried thi Intona galvanic isolator and it is a very noticible improvement in sound. I tried the Regen after the Intona and it made the sound worse. The Regen into the isolater again improved the sound a little more. I recommend the Intona very much
 Alan


----------



## prot

abartels said:


> USB isolation indeed is important, tested several options when designing my dac, and yes, it sounds very different, isolation is the way to go for.
> Wil inquire at Silanna if they have it available.
> 
> Thanks for the link,
> ...



Isolation is surely very important but since I never heard any diffs or Usb noise I assume my Dac is very well isolated. According to the specsheet it uses a m2tech 2.0 Usb interface. 

Good luck with the aussies, that looks like a serious semiconductor company .. would be cool to have the first Dac with full usb 2.0 isolation.


----------



## abartels

ahendler said:


> with my MacBook Pro to Melodius to Master 7 a jitterbug, Disruptor and Regan. The jitterbug made no change in sound. The disruptor no change. The Regen with an external power supply a very small but noticeable change. Tried thi Intona galvanic isolator and it is a very noticible improvement in sound. I tried the Regen after the Intona and it made the sound worse. The Regen into the isolater again improved the sound a little more. I recommend the Intona very much
> Alan


 
  
 Thanks Alan, that is exactly what others also experienced!! The Intona obviously surpasses the SQ of the Regen.


----------



## abartels

prot said:


> abartels said:
> 
> 
> > USB isolation indeed is important, tested several options when designing my dac, and yes, it sounds very different, isolation is the way to go for.
> ...


 
  
 Silanna is a Semiconducter manufacturer, they don't have complete solution.
  
 I am not redesigning my DAC with built-in usb isolator since this technique asks for seperated psu design(s).
 In the future it could be an option when deciding to design a complete input pcb (USB) with isolation. But, for now I chose the option to include an "off the shelve design".
  
 It makes it very easy to exchange with a newer version when available. In this regard I also chose for the DAC pcb I used. If AK4497SEQ is available, AK4495SEQ can be replaced with it.


----------



## prot

abartels said:


> Silanna is a Semiconducter manufacturer, they don't have complete solution.




That also sounds like an opportunity, doesnt it? You can use the Silanna chip(s) to build your own Usb isolator with proper clocks, regeneration, etc. 

Btw, the 'recommended' setup at CA nowadays seems to be PC - Intona - Regen - DDC - DAC .. of course with a clean LPS for each one of those. That's a lot of money and a giant pile of cables and headaches .. and a sign of a pretty serious USB paranoia which needs a better product to adress it


----------



## MINORISUKE

A new chassis:


----------



## m0reilly

> USB paranoia


 
 haha, indeed. if it's not one thing it's another...what's a mother to do...


----------



## ginetto61

minorisuke said:


> A new chassis:


 
  
 Hi !  beautiful indeed.
 Could you provide a link to the product ?
 Thanks a lot,  gino


----------



## MINORISUKE

ginetto61 said:


> .....
> Could you provide a link to the product ?
> .....


 
 This picture was from their Taobao store as of yesterday.  I am not sure whether it is still there.
 The product page has the old photos, which is likely to mean that a model with this new chassis is still unavailable.


----------



## ginetto61

minorisuke said:


> This picture was from their Taobao store as of yesterday.  I am not sure whether it is still there.
> The product page has the old photos, which is likely to mean that a model with this new chassis is still unavailable.


 
  
 Thanks a lot for the kind reply.
 I like this new chassis a lot more ... they could even think about making _*a more compact version with a DC socket for an external power supply*_
 Nice unit indeed.
 I have the old model and in my system and in the stock version is better than the Gustard U12.
 I do not have a Breeze to compare unfortunately.
 I have the feeling that the Melodious is a fundamentally very sane product and maybe it can improved a little in the power supply section.
 Regards, gino


----------



## prot

m0reilly said:


> haha, indeed. if it's not one thing it's another...




looks like in this case there's another  
http://www.coolgear.com/product/usb-2-0-high-speed-isolator-adapter-and-screw-lock-cable


----------



## hgpsemaj

It seems MX-U8 is going to share the same enclosure with MA2,


----------



## prot

What hapened to that u12 thread again?


----------



## abartels

no clue what happened with U12 thread


----------



## vincponc2610

I do not find anymore an available Breeze U8 on aliexpress.
 All are not available.
  
 A new one is coming ?


----------



## hgpsemaj

Most probably affected by Lunar New Year holiday.


----------



## abartels

Hi,
  
 for the ones who are interested, I started a new thread about USB interfaces since U12 thread was closed.
 Feel free to subscribe 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/797881/digital-usb-interfaces-xmos-or-amanero-combo384-based-reviews-comparison-modifications-and-usb-audio-in-general
  
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## audioelements

I just got a Melodious MX-U8 usb/spdif converter from eBay. It was shipped with DHL express, I got it in 3 days in the US.
  
 It is the new chassis with the round corner. Heavy build casting aluminum and looks very nice. The LEDs are too bright. First, I tried it with windows 7, it has some glitches (I have to switch off/on the U8 to let the computer find it). I haven't got a chance to evaluate the SQ, but the first impression was very good. It at least as good as the usb port in my W4S DAC with DSD usb input, and safe to say that the U8 is on the warmer side. According to what I read on the forums, the USB with DSD support on the W4S DAC was very decent.
  
 However, the good news ends here. I have no luck to play any sound from my Cubietruck Linux (Armbian Wheezy arm6hf -> LMS 7.9 -> squeezelite 1.8). The squeezelite could find the U8 when turn on the MX-U8 after linux boot up. But if I reboot the linux when the MX-U8 was on, the linux would lost the U8. This system had no issues with HiFace Two and the W4S DAC usb-dsd input.
  
 I also tried Daphile on my Lenovo laptop. The same thing happened. The Daphile sometime can see the U8, but never could make a sound. It is weird, because all three lights including the DSD LED lights up when using both armbian linux and the Daphile. I was not playing any DSD files. Spent a whole night, could not get any sound out of it with Linux. At this point, I am not sure I got a 100% working unit.
  
 The ultimate edition is mainly the new chassis (cost more) with the same 1.7 board. I talked to the designer, Mr. Liu at Taobao store yesterday night. He had no idea regarding to my problem.
  
 Anyone used the MX-U8 1.7 with Linux? I appreciate your inputs.


----------



## abartels

audioelements said:


> I just got a Melodious MX-U8 usb/spdif converter from eBay. It was shipped with DHL express, I got it in 3 days in the US.
> 
> It is the new chassis with the round corner. Heavy build casting aluminum and looks very nice. The LEDs are too bright. First, I tried it with windows 7, it has some glitches (I have to switch off/on the U8 to let the computer find it). I haven't got a chance to evaluate the SQ, but the first impression was very good. It at least as good as the usb port in my W4S DAC with DSD usb input, and safe to say that the U8 is on the warmer side. According to what I read on the forums, the USB with DSD support on the W4S DAC was very decent.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi AudioElements,
  
 It's probably very wise to put this question in the new DDC forum since there are many U12/Melodious thread followers who already subbed.
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/797881/ddc-digital-usb-interfaces-xmos-or-amanero-combo384-based-reviews-comparison-modifications-and-usb-audio-in-general/60#post_12385675
  
 XMOS is very picky about drivers, buffers and latency.
  
 I suppose you have a buffer/latency related problem (I had those too on Server 2012, thesycon driver solved everything).
 Are there any buffer/latency settings to configure in Linux?
  
  
 Regards,
  
 Alex


----------



## CFGamescape

prot said:


> Before the U12 thread went funky I had an unaswered driver questions there .. since this is the only active DDC thread maybe you guys can help me.
> A few people mentioned a 3.xx Xmos driver for the Breeze. *Does anyone know if there is an equivalent XMOS 3.xx driver for the U12? (Latest I know is 2.26)*
> 
> P.S.
> ...


 
  
  


abartels said:


> Can happen, no sweat
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 I'm also using the U12 with 2.26 drivers. I don't even know where I got it. I don't have a disc driver for my PC, so I have to rely on the interwebs. Anyway, @prot, let me know what you end up using. I'm considering returning my U12 if there is no driver support for it or find one that I can easily install and be done with. The DDC rabbit hole is too technical and progressive for this lazy sack .


----------



## ginetto61

Hi Guys ! sorry for the outburst.
 But i wonder ... is it really so difficult to set up a web site and put there a little presentation of products (both in chinese and english for the rest of the world)  with the possibility to download the latest drivers ?  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 i am really puzzled and sorry.
_*This search of drivers looks like a treasure hunt 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


*_
 A web site is the presentation of a company to the outside world.
 A mandatory step for any serious company. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 End of the outburst.
 Have a nice day
 gino


----------



## rb2013

Check out my new thread on the latest USB Bridges - amazing sound - very low cost.
 Cheers!
  
http://www.head-fi.org/t/803111/xmos-xu208-usb-bridges-the-latest-gen-has-arrived/315


----------



## prot

cfgamescape said:


> I'm also using the U12 with 2.26 drivers. I don't even know where I got it. I don't have a disc driver for my PC, so I have to rely on the interwebs. Anyway, @prot, let me know what you end up using. I'm considering returning my U12 if there is no driver support for it or find one that I can easily install and be done with. The DDC rabbit hole is too technical and progressive for this lazy sack .


 

 I finally got some time to install driver 3.20 from here.
 Haven't used my gustard in a long time and cannot really compare .. seems to sound same as the 2.26 I had before ... i.e. good .  Stable too, install took 2 mins and everything works fine


----------



## CFGamescape

prot said:


> I finally got some time to install driver 3.20 from here.
> Haven't used my gustard in a long time and cannot really compare .. seems to sound same as the 2.26 I had before ... i.e. good .  Stable too, install took 2 mins and everything works fine




Stable for me, too. Also, I tried my system without the U12 and I can actually tell there was a little bit more harshness in the highs. The U12 smoothes everything out. It's subtle but for the first time, I could actually tell. I guess sometimes you don't know what you have until it's gone. Thanks again for your guidance.


----------



## musickid

is the stock external power supply of the breeze du-u8 good enough to do the job. as it has a talema transformer internally and lps internally i guess there is no need to worry about the power supply external. especially as im on a tight budget any added cost for external supply is a bit much.


----------



## FredA

musickid said:


> is the stock external power supply of the breeze du-u8 good enough to do the job. as it has a talema transformer internally and lps internally i guess there is no need to worry about the power supply external. especially as im on a tight budget any added cost for external supply is a bit much.




The stock breeze with talema is very very good. If you use it with a usb isolator, it is even better. Then you can put Crystek oscillators in it and it gets better still. It is a very good ddc. Nice balanced sound. For the money, very hard to beat!


----------



## musickid

is a usb isolator essential to improve SQ? i have not the knowledge to put oscillators in such a device!! can i take your advice and rest assured the stock breeze with talema and stock external power supply is very very good as you say. i am new to this and on a very steep learning curve and needing reassurance before i make purchases. out of interest what settings show up on my mac when the breeze is connected. many thanks


----------



## FredA

musickid said:


> is a usb isolator essential to improve SQ? i have not the knowledge to put oscillators in such a device!! can i take your advice and rest assured the stock breeze with talema and stock external power supply is very very good as you say. i am new to this and on a very steep learning curve and needing reassurance before i make purchases. out of interest what settings show up on my mac when the breeze is connected. many thanks




I have a high-end setup. With a mid-fi setup, the Breeze is more than enough. Great buy.


----------



## musickid

Many Thanks Fred great advice


----------



## abartels

Singxer F-1 could be a great investment too:
  
 https://world.taobao.com/search/search.htm?_ksTS=1486813892559_28&spm=a21bp.7806943.20151106.1&json=on&suggest_query=singxer&cna=zEGZD2vwiSMCAVQaJtI1htGr&wq=singxer&suggest=0_2&_input_charset=utf-8&source=suggest&navigator=all&q=singxer%20f-1&callback=__jsonp_cb&abtest=_AB-LR517-LR854-LR895-PR517-PR854-PR895


----------



## Sonic Defender

I have an original MX-U8 from about 2015. I purchased it from Shenzhenaudio. They are lovely people, but can't seem to understand anything I ask in English well enough to help me. I have an old driver 1.9 and I need a direct link to a newer driver if one exists. At first they sent me to Mandarin only web pages and finally when they did send me drivers the archives were empty when uncompressed and no matter how many times I tried to explain they just sent the same file over and over again. If anybody can send me a link to a driver or send me one directly via private message I would be really in your debt. Thanks.


----------



## wwmhf

Try this location: https://download.shenzhenaudio.com/Smsl/




Sonic Defender said:


> I have an original MX-U8 from about 2015. I purchased it from Shenzhenaudio. They are lovely people, but can't seem to understand anything I ask in English well enough to help me. I have an old driver 1.9 and I need a direct link to a newer driver if one exists. At first they sent me to Mandarin only web pages and finally when they did send me drivers the archives were empty when uncompressed and no matter how many times I tried to explain they just sent the same file over and over again. If anybody can send me a link to a driver or send me one directly via private message I would be really in your debt. Thanks.


----------



## Sonic Defender

wwmhf said:


> Try this location: https://download.shenzhenaudio.com/Smsl/



Thanks mate, any idea which link is the one I want? Certainly not the DSD file, maybe the second from the bottom? Appreciate the help.


----------



## wwmhf

The file "SMSL DRIVER NOTES.txt" on that web page says:

To easily understand and install right driver for S.M.S.L DAC from many models,
We classify USB driver by chip used (Mac OS needn't to install driver,but Microsoft system needs).
Drivers listed as below:
CM6631AIncluding Models of Sanskrit 6 / V2 / M6 / MAGIC)
CM6632AIncluding Models of Sanskrit PRO / Sanskrit PRO-B / T1 / A6)
XMOS U8Including models of X-usb / M8)
XMOS xCore200Including models of idea / M1 / M7 / M9 / M10 / M11 / A8)

Hence, I guess you can try "XMOS(U8).exe" posted there





Sonic Defender said:


> Thanks mate, any idea which link is the one I want? Certainly not the DSD file, maybe the second from the bottom? Appreciate the help.


----------



## abartels

Sonic Defender,

Send me your email address, I have version 2.19 and 3.0, but not sure if 3.0 works.
Can't test since I don't own any usb ddc's anymore.

Regards,
Alex


----------



## abartels

Here you go, driver version 2.19 which I know it works, driver version 3.o which I am not sure of if it works.

Download is available for 7 days:

https://wetransfer.com/downloads/fe...c9d7092d39e3e738cc1ffb4520170524190131/298642


Cheers,
Alex


----------



## Sonic Defender

abartels said:


> Here you go, driver version 2.19 which I know it works, driver version 3.o which I am not sure of if it works.
> 
> Download is available for 7 days:
> 
> ...



Thanks Alex, that is very kind of you. I will download and install in a few minutes. Cheers.


----------



## jaaptina (Jun 7, 2017)

Hello all, I have just installed a Melodious Audio MX-U8 in my system. I've got the version with round edges. It's between the microRendu streamer and my Job INTegrated amplifier. I wanted to try the coax input. All sounds well.

Question: Is it possible to bypass the 230V input and use a DC input? If so, what voltage?

I've not the electronic skills to figure this out but I'm not afraid to solder some changes.





Greetings,
Jaap


----------



## abartels

I modified the first version which had a seperate pcb for transformer. That version was easier to modify, later designs had transformer and circuitry on one pcb, and I am not sure what kind of voltages are needed.
This is not the kind of equipment to modify if you're not into electronics. It is not one simple DC voltage, there are several psu stages. If I remember correctly there are 2x 5V-DC supplies, and each of them has
several LDO-stages behind them.

If I were you I wouldn't tamper with it if you're not 100% sure of what you are doing....

Just my 2 cents


----------



## jaaptina

Thanks, I was thinking it would be so.


----------



## riderx1

Is this similar to the schiit fulla?


----------



## hawkhead

Can someone do me a massive favour - I really really need the Acrylic US1v2.19.0 - Summa Digital driver - no sound without it 

Many thanks


----------



## Sonic Defender (Sep 10, 2017)

hawkhead said:


> Can someone do me a massive favour - I really really need the Acrylic US1v2.19.0 - Summa Digital driver - no sound without it
> 
> Many thanks


I will check, I believe that is what I have. Hold on while I look. Yep, that is what I have (install application and files) how do I get it to you? PM me if you still need it.


----------



## LancerFIN

Are the old versions worth getting? By the looks of back panel this version I was offered looks older than 1.7. Possibly the oldest model.


----------



## Sonic Defender

Yes, that is a good question. At what point does the generic USB chipsets start to be equal to, or superior to the performance in the older MX-U8 units? Mine must be getting long in the tooth, it has to be close to four years old now. I wonder if there is even a point in trying to upgrade the components in an older unit or better to simply buy a new one?


----------



## abartels (Feb 2, 2018)

I would go for SINGXER F-1 XMOS XU-208 / SINGXER SU-1 which has much better chipset, or, even better, an interface based on AMANERO which is preferred by most Audiophiles.

https://nl.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20180202072317&SearchText=xmos+xu208

https://nl.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=&SearchText=amanero

Good luck!


----------

