# SONY MDR-V6 DETACHABLE CABLE MOD



## wrathzombie

[size=24pt]SONY MDR-V6 REMOVABLE CABLE MOD[/size]

   
  [size=medium]DISCLAIMER: Try it at your own risk[/size]
   
  [size=medium]Components Required: [/size]
   
  [size=medium][/size]

 [size=medium]3.5 mm Female Chassis Mount (Slimmest One available)[/size]
   

 [size=medium]Soldering Iron, solder, etc[/size]
 [size=medium]Dremel Tool[/size]
 [size=medium]Thin Wires[/size]
   
*[size=medium]IMPORTANT POINTS TO NOTE:[/size]*
   

 [size=medium]The width of the cup is very less, hence it is important to get the Slimmest female jack[/size]
 [size=medium]The portion from where cable comes out has a plastic mount, which needs to be sawed off otherwise the jack screw nut would not come out properly.[/size]
   
  [size=medium]Also [/size]

 [size=medium]Also, the cup is metallic however the portion that holds the earpads is plastic. [/size]
   
   

   
   
   
   
*[size=medium]STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS:[/size]*

 [size=medium]Remove the earpads.[/size]
 [size=medium]Remove the four Philips screw carefully.[/size]
 [size=medium]You will see three cables; red, green and copper colored. They have to be connected in the following order.[/size]
   


 [size=medium]The cables inside MDR-V6 are different type which has insulation fiber like material on them which make it difficult to solder. When I tried first time. I cut the three colored wire at sufficient length, so that I had enough to work with. But when I soldered them they had gotten tangled and didn’t work. So I de-soldered the Red and Green cable off the driver magnet and instead used thin insulated copper cables. This worked [/size][size=medium]J[/size]
 [size=medium]Next thing to note is that the cups in MDR-v6 are made of metal however the flat part which holds the headband is made of plastic. To explain I have made a rough sketch:[/size]
   

   
  [size=medium]Now the plastic portion of plastic cup goes inside the metal cup and hence adding additional thickness and hence making it difficult for the female chassis to be mounted on the inside of the metal cup. Hence, with help of Dremel tool you will have to grind out the excess plastic from the inside and outside of the metal cups for the chassis mount to sit tightly on the inside of the cups.[/size]

 [size=medium]When I tried first time, I tried to place the 3.5 mm chassis on the inside cup and then tried to solder which was difficult. The best way to do is to use a little additional wire and solder the connections on chassis mount before securing them to the inside of the cups.[/size]
 [size=medium]Lastly, since the cups are not deep enough, there is a possibility that the driver magnet touch the chassis mount and hence resulting in no sound. When I first completed soldering I was able to listen to the sound with the driver open but as soon as I closed it there was no sound. An easy work around that would be to place insulation tape on the driver so that there is no contact between the metal portion of the chassis and the driver magnet. This was a success.[/size]
   
   
*[size=medium]END PRODUCT:[/size]*
   
  [size=medium]*This is my first attempt and it doesn’t look as bad as the picture, trust me. The scratches seen were made by the rough handling of Dremel tool. I more confident now and next time the finish should be much better . By the way it sounds great and just waiting for the velour pads to arrive to test them properly.*[/size]
   
  [size=medium]**[/size]


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## anthony81212

Looks good! Gonna do it when mine arrives


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## wrathzombie

Please be careful.
   
  Keep the following things in Mind:
   
  1. Your headphone might get destroyed/ aesthetically damaged. Please be prepared for that.
   
  2. The Cup size in MDR-V6 is not much so you have to be very careful with the tools ( Drilling, filing soldering etc.)
   
  3. You cannot use a thick 3.5 Male/Female Jack because of the cup size and try to get the slimmest ones possible.
   
  If you are buying new headphones and planning to mod them, I would advice against it. 
   
  All the best


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## HiFi1972

Cool post! I also modded a pair of these a few months ago. I gave my son my V6's when he was around 4 years old. He beat them up real bad and stretched the wire going from the L cup to the R, and also messed up the stock cable by bending the 1/8" adapter while it was connected to a portable DVD player, so 6 years later, and after buying a few pairs of those "kids headphones" that have built-in attenuation, I decided to finally mod them, and wanted to make sure they would last abuse this time. I modded them to drop the signal about -10dB (used a 48 ohm wirewound resistor in series for each driver).
   
  I used a similar female jack, it's slightly smaller than the one you used (found on eBay, a bit expensive but I wanted the smallest possible jack:
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-3-5mm-Stereo-Socket-Connector-Round-Panel-Mounting-/390477206738?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item5aea4154d2
   
  I also re-did the wire going from the L cup to the R cup with 22 awg wire and also shrink-tubed it. It still bends well enough to fold in the headphones, and after it was all done, I bought about 10 1/8" retractable connector cables for about $3. My kid already broke 3 of the cables, but the headphones are still alive and well. Here's a pic showing how mine turned out:
   
  https://www.dropbox.com/s/6685n9gdn2u43kt/IMAG0234.jpg
   
  I had a tiny scratch on my cup, I used a black sharpie marker to cover it up, and you can't tell there was a scratch at all.


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## wrathzombie

Quote: 





hifi1972 said:


> Cool post! I also modded a pair of these a few months ago. I gave my son my V6's when he was around 4 years old. He beat them up real bad and stretched the wire going from the L cup to the R, and also messed up the stock cable by bending the 1/8" adapter while it was connected to a portable DVD player, so 6 years later, and after buying a few pairs of those "kids headphones" that have built-in attenuation, I decided to finally mod them, and wanted to make sure they would last abuse this time. I modded them to drop the signal about -10dB (used a 48 ohm wirewound resistor in series for each driver).
> 
> I used a similar female jack, it's slightly smaller than the one you used (found on eBay, a bit expensive but I wanted the smallest possible jack:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-3-5mm-Stereo-Socket-Connector-Round-Panel-Mounting-/390477206738?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item5aea4154d2
> ...


 
   
  Awesome job !! You have done it much better than me ... This was my first attempt at modding, If I decide to mod something I would be better prepared.


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## anthony81212

Quote: 





hifi1972 said:


> https://www.dropbox.com/s/6685n9gdn2u43kt/IMAG0234.jpg
> 
> I had a tiny scratch on my cup, I used a black sharpie marker to cover it up, and you can't tell there was a scratch at all.


 
   
  Excellent photography!
   
  And the Sharpie trick is AMAZING, thanks for making my V6 look new again


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## chispa02

Thanks for the idea... I own a pair of old V7506 that the wire going from the L cup to the R is broken, so anyway I need to open and repair them.... sounds like a good time to do this mod...
  Any recommendations on which cable should I use to rewire them from L to R?


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## AUDIOBREEDER

Is it possible to connect a remote cable via. this approach?


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## razorblader

audiobreeder said:


> Is it possible to connect a remote cable via. this approach?


 

 Yes.


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## Boom Shaka Laka

ok, good mod idea, but practically speaking do you get easy kick outs as the mini connector faces downward and it wouldn't take much tug on cable. A screw in connector or some locking type would be better although may not have the dimensions to make it work from the same cup spot.


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## Enyawd72

could i just mod the cable by cutting and reattaching it to a cut of stand alone female cable


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## KElyas

enyawd72 said:


> could i just mod the cable by cutting and reattaching it to a cut of stand alone female cable


 
  
 I'm also interested in this. Did you find an answer?


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## phamtasm

enyawd72 said:


> could i just mod the cable by cutting and reattaching it to a cut of stand alone female cable


 

 I'm thinking this is an easier way to go as well. Anyone out there with info on this?


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## mark42na2

Here's my mod although it's a 7506.


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## afxdave

Hey all,
  
 Here's one a did a few years back. Mouser sells some decent 3.5mm connectors that fit securely:
  
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/253/KC-300961-196008.pdf
  

  

  

  
 Sorry for not having any interior shots, but some really good sueprglue, or epoxy is enough to hold the plastic in place. The bond is secure since it's two plastic surfaces adhering together.


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## kid vic

My 7506 cable is messed up at the headphone jack end (its my portable set) and I want to use a detachable mini-xlr cable (secure fit and exchangeable with my AKG's); how hard will it be to get a connector like this one to fit inside the shell? I saw this thread where someone did it with ATH-M50's which are fairly close in size so I know its possible.


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## smokeweed

Hey Sony V6 users, I had my V6s about 13 months and stupidly I dropped my tablet and bent the headphone jack, it cracked a tiny bit on it so 1 side didnt work. I saw this mod ages ago but never really had reason to try it until my ones broke. I got the same jack as HiFi1972 off ebay but I found one slightly cheaper and surprisingly in the UK. Next I got a soldering iron with some solder plus as stand for 6.99 also on ebay. Note its my first ever time soldering or modding headphones though I have done little wiring things in the past. Heres what I did -

Open right headphone, cut wire just outside cup untangle from plastic things and pull out, remove wire cover and remove little rubber thing from hole.

I then got some of that green builders sandpaper and rolled a small bit up then I sanded inside the hole where the wire comes through until it was loose enough for me to screw the jack in but tight enough for it to screw in securely, also I just used my finger to snap off the plastic tab closest to the hole but I left the other.

I decided I would unsolder the old headphone wire and instead I used some speaker wire I had laying about, first I soldered the wires onto the jack and screwed it into place, then I desoldered and resoldered the new wires 1 by 1 as I took them off as to not get one in the wrong place, make sure the wires long enough to reach the driver without making it arkward but not so long as it might be harder to fit in.

Tested at this point and yes it works!! Pop driver bit back onto cup and screw back on!! Good luck to anyone attempting this, I am a total novice but it was stupidly easy, and so much better than it was even before I think, sound quality is not compromised at all.











Excuse the crappy image quality from my tablet and also my ghetto makeshift earpad for until my others arrive, too bad they have to come all the way from the far east and Im not spending 20 quid on the Beyerdynamic ones.


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## kid vic

smokeweed said:


> Hey Sony V6 users, I had my V6s about 13 months and stupidly I dropped my tablet and bent the headphone jack, it cracked a tiny bit on it so 1 side didnt work. I saw this mod ages ago but never really had reason to try it until my ones broke. I got the same jack as HiFi1972 off ebay but I found one slightly cheaper and surprisingly in the UK. Next I got a soldering iron with some solder plus as stand for 6.99 also on ebay. Note its my first ever time soldering or modding headphones though I have done little wiring things in the past. Heres what I did -
> 
> _*Open right headphone*_, cut wire just outside cup untangle from plastic things and pull out, remove wire cover and remove little rubber thing from hole.
> 
> ...


 
 Are you sure it wasn't the left side you did?
  
 You wouldn't happen to be able to answer my question posted above (3-pin mini-XLR)?


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## smokeweed

kid vic said:


> Are you sure it wasn't the left side you did?
> 
> You wouldn't happen to be able to answer my question posted above (3-pin mini-XLR)?




Indeed it was, my bad lol. 

Im not exactly a pro, this is the first time Ive ever done anything like this so maybe Im not the best person to ask but I would say it looks a bit big, theres a surprising amount of space inside the cups you can use but the mini xlr looks a bit thicker than the 3.5mm jack I used so I think you would have to remove a lot more if not all the plastic from the hole and you would need to screw it from the outside in if you get me. My one the screw was on the jack end so I put it inside and screwed it in so the hole was facing out the bottom.

With the lenght of it Id say there would be no worries but Id be a bit worried having to do too much work to get it too fit nicely but I suppose it depends how much you willing to do and if you willing to potentially destroy them if you try it and it wont fit as it would be hard to put a smaller jack on after youve already made it too big.

Personally I think the 3.5mm jack is better just as its a minimal amount of work to do and its pretty simple, I wouldnt be too happy about removing that entire bit of plastic around the hole or actually cutting the metal cups, what is the benefit of using mini XLR over 3.5mm anyway?


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## kid vic

smokeweed said:


> Indeed it was, my bad lol.
> 
> Im not exactly a pro, this is the first time Ive ever done anything like this so maybe Im not the best person to ask but I would say it looks a bit big, theres a surprising amount of space inside the cups you can use but the mini xlr looks a bit thicker than the 3.5mm jack I used so I think you would have to remove a lot more if not all the plastic from the hole and you would need to screw it from the outside in if you get me. My one the screw was on the jack end so I put it inside and screwed it in so the hole was facing out the bottom.
> 
> ...


 
 Hahaha just read your username.
  
 For me the benefit is that I could use the same cables as all my AKG headphones and that they are solid when connected but easy to pull off (just press a button) as opposed to using a 3.5mm which is just friction. I'm considering making it inline instead (i.e. about an inch from the driver as part of the cord).


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## smokeweed

kid vic said:


> Hahaha just read your username.
> 
> For me the benefit is that I could use the same cables as all my AKG headphones and that they are solid when connected but easy to pull off (just press a button) as opposed to using a 3.5mm which is just friction. I'm considering making it inline instead (i.e. about an inch from the driver as part of the cord).


 
 Haha, ah I see that makes sense, Ive just got to say I was worried about the same thing (plug pulling out easily) but its actually really tight and secure. I think Im more likely to pull the plug out of my device or pull the headphones right off my head before it actually comes out of the headphones themselves. I think it could be as this plug is so small it must be made to quite a degree of accuracy and the size of it theres not really not room for it to be loose lol. I guess Ill see how it fares over time but I cant see it becoming loose anytime soon.
  
 Either way good luck and post up a few pics of how it goes, doing it inline would definitely be a lot easier though I wasnt too sure about soldering those headphone wires, plenty of people say its easy but I didnt want to risk ruining my  part if it didnt work. For putting it actually in it Id want to look at the jack and really work out properly how I was going to go at it, then theres a possibility of getting it and it being too big but at least you havent already destroyed your headphones. Remember the 5 Ps lol. Good luck.


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## kid vic

Yeah, I should really get on ordering the parts hahaha :S


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## tumtuter

afxdave said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Here's one a did a few years back. Mouser sells some decent 3.5mm connectors that fit securely:
> 
> http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/253/KC-300961-196008.pdf


 
 Wow! nicely done it looks like an original manufacturer design.


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## txoutback

Hello,
  
 I would like to add a detachable connector to my 7506s.
  
 Does it matter if I use a 4-conductor vs 3-conductor jack on 7506s?


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## cdsa35000

Not really, only the last (3rd) ring must be soldered/shorted to the sleeve to form the long COMMON/GROUND as the 3 pole jack:
Why the hassle? there're some 3-pole female connector construction, that have the sleeve conductor precisely positioned in the middle between the last ring and sleeve of the 4-pole jack, than no sound will occur.


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## clarence35

After doing the detachable cable mod to my MDR-V6's, I noticed that my headphones have markedly more microphonics than with the original coiled cable.  I'm sure that a lot of it has to do with the cable I'm using, but was wondering if anyone else experienced the same.


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## cdsa35000

The screw on connector makes direct contact to the cup housing, put a rubber ring and/or rubber socket over the connector to dampen direct contact to housing.
The original cable use a rubber socket in that housing.


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## clarence35

cdsa35000 said:


> The screw on connector makes direct contact to the cup housing, put a rubber ring and/or rubber socket over the connector to dampen direct contact to housing.
> The original cable use a rubber socket in that housing.


 
 That makes sense to me, thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, I used a slim 3.mm jack which doesn't have enough mounting depth to attach a rubber ring or socket without taking a dremel the earcup plastic. I'll have to see if I can live with the microphonics or else consider modifying the earcup.


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## heavyarms

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-stereo-socket-jack-female-connector-panel-mount-Solder-Lot-/141083775380?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item20d93f9194
  
 Will this one work?


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## sonymdr750611

Trying to post my own MDR 7506 thread but so far I've been blocked. Please unblock me, I think people will like my design and work.


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## sonymdr750611

http://i.imgur.com/KDknQ6a.jpg A taste.


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## vertical

sonymdr750611 said:


> Trying to post my own MDR 7506 thread but so far I've been blocked. Please unblock me, I think people will like my design and work.



If memory serves, I believe the forum software enforces a minimum post count before a new member is permitted to start a thread. It's not huge. 

Anyway, welcome to Head Fi


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## Koschei

sonymdr750611 said:


> http://i.imgur.com/KDknQ6a.jpg A taste.




That's really cool. I think because you're a new user, you're not allowed to post threads yet. Why not just post your build in this thread instead?


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## sonymdr750611

Here's the album:
Sony MDR 7506 Bluetooth + Detachable Cable + Beyerdynamics Pads Mod http://imgur.com/a/lORBc
  
 Pictures in random order.
  
 Time it took me alltogether: 4 hours.
 Average soldering skills required, used a 3$ soldering iron from the Dollar store. Make sure to use flux, it makes everything easier!
 Female aux from B&H Electronics in NYC for 3$
 Beyerdynamics from same store for 23$. Turns out Amazon with shipping is often more expensive! Buy locally and support biz where you live!
 All cables from old 3.5mm aux cable.
 Drilled holes with drill nad drilling machine.
 Used this bluetooth adaptor and took it apart: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-USB-Bluetooth-Wireless-Receiver-Audio-Music-Adapter-Car-Home-AUX-Speaker-/201210654465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed916ef01
  
 Listening time: Around 6 hours. Could take a larger battery as there is much more space but I don't really mind, I charge them every night when I go to bed.
  
 Sound quality: I sealed any possible holes with glue. Blind test of right/left with a couple of my friends, nobody could tell the difference. Can't tell the difference myself, bass/treble sounds exactly the same to me.
  
 Definitely worth it. Bluetooth headphones are so much more comfortable to wear, now I really loathe cables. And the beyerdynamics mod ... of course...


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## sonymdr750611

Granted, I'm not a very experienced audiophile, although I prefer my music in .ogg or .wav format. I also use these for DJing, so I left the detachable cable mod and soldered a male aux connector to the original coiled cable which I now use for DJing. The bluetooth module has a microphone built in and theoretically once could use it for phone calls etc. but the location of it isn't the best and the person you're talking to wouldn't be able to hear you clearly. Instead i bought this cable http://v-moda.com/1-button-speakeasy-cable/ which I connect to the headphones and thus use them as a headset. If you really want to go out of your way you could solder the small mic (seen in picture 4 on the left: round and golden, connects to underside of PCB) to a longer cable and run that cable to the outside of the headphones/closer to the wearer's mouth.


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## sonymdr750611

Also, the range of the bluetooth module is EXCELLENT. I forgot my phone in my room, walked to the kitchen with my headphones on (through a door, down a 30 feet hallway, around the corner and through another door) and only then did the sound cut/did I realize that I left my phone.


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## Koschei

sonymdr750611 said:


> Here's the album:
> Sony MDR 7506 Bluetooth + Detachable Cable + Beyerdynamics Pads Mod
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/lORBc
> ...




That's awesome! You're a freaking artist. I share your dual loves of velour pads and bluetooth receivers. I use this receiver:
http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Mpow-Streambot-Streaming-Smartphones/dp/B00MJMV0GU/ref=pd_sim_107_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0K816EM8C12ZXDXY7YF9
daisy chained to a fiio e6, and double sided taped to the side of the cans. Oh, and they're m50's instead of v6's, but both cans' measurements are really close to each other. I'm really impressed with what you did there. How tight is the fit between the guts and the driver? it looks like you've got like 1 or 2 mm at best. Did you have to remove any internal padding or anything like that?

Also, would you mind drawing out a diagram of how you wired it all together? I'm curious to see how you integrated the bluetooth receiver with the female jack.


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## sonymdr750611

Yeah, cool! Wanted the bluetooth mod but didn't want to have big adapters/receivers/amps strapped to the side of my head. The bluetooth module is fairly thin, there should be around 2-3 mm bw the driver and the module. Bw the female jack and the driver there's around 1mm distance.
 Volume is OK, not much quieter than with cord. I use them mainly with my phone and VLC media player and can adjust the EQ and cancel out a few of the MDR7506s imperfections. This bluetooth module is loud enough to be used without an amp.
  
 Drawing skills aren't the best but this should help:
  
 I could've soldered the wires directly from the BT receiver to the driver and thus used shorter cables but decided to solder them to the female jack. Trial and error and i connected the right ones to the right connections. from there i had cables soldered to the driver already.


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## lusagi

So I just spent an hour or two working on a detachable mod for my pair of mdr-cd900st.  Basically what i did was:
  
 1) Cut the wire inside cup with about half an inch extra cable pulled in to wire to a 1/8" jack I bought (adjust to how much cable length you think you need)
  
 2) Use a reamer to expand the cable exit hole for the female jack and to fit inside smoothly.
  
 2) Tape around the square raised plastic surround the cable exit on the outside of the ear cup and file it down level flush to the ear cup.  (Most time consuming part)
  
 3) Strip the wires of the freshly cut cable end and solder it to the plug (be careful with wires as the wires connected to the back of the drivers break easily)
  
 4) Place the plug in the cable exit hole and secure with the included nut on the outside.
  
http://www.markertek.com/product/30-493a/calrad-30-493a-stereo-3-5mm-panel-mount-jack-mounts-in-1-4in-hole
  
 This mod just costs about $1.59, ignoring tools costs if you already have them.  It requires the tools below

small file
Soldering iron
Solder
reamer
1/8 calrad female jack
  
 Note after the mod, since the original cable exit hole is used, thin-styled 1/8 plug are required.  ex) both ends of the stock mdr-7520 coil cable work, but a switchcraft locking 1/8 plug's nut is too big for the small plug clearance


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## txoutback

Thanks for the writeup and the link to that jack, lusagi. 
  
 Got any pics of the inside and outside?


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## lusagi

As you can see there is barely any clearance for even average size plugs.  For sure a switchcraft locking plug will not fit, since the locking nut is way too big.  It's probably a good idea to replace the internal wires between the jack and driver, since those are so thin.  I actually broke both white and red wires, so I had to strip and solder them back on.


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## Le Bane

sonymdr750611 said:


> Here's the album:
> Sony MDR 7506 Bluetooth + Detachable Cable + Beyerdynamics Pads Mod http://imgur.com/a/lORBc
> 
> Pictures in random order.
> ...


 
 Nice post I would like to know all the wire connections and how you fit the beyerdynamics pads.


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## piano08man

I actually did a write-up on a very similar process for my MDR-7506. My goal was to add the detachable cable so I could use a Beats iPhone cable that has a mic, volume, and the other standard iPhone controls. It worked beautifully. I didn't even realize this post was here when I did the original mod. Probably would've been helpful.  You can check out the mod here. I even put a time-lapse video of the mod on YouTube. I've done a bunch of these for friends and even thought about selling the service at one point. It never gained enough traction for me to really consider it.
  
 However, I now own an iPhone without a headphone jack, so I needed something different. I didn't want to use Apple's stupid dongle, or a bluetooth adapter, and didn't feel like modding my 7506 further... I like my 7506 just as they are. I spent a lot of time looking around and testing wireless headphones assuming I'd have to go with something I didn't really want (I love my 7506). I eventually found the Sony MDR-ZX770BT. I went through the specs and read several comments about the drivers in these headphones, from what I can tell (and from what other people are saying), they use the same drivers as the V6 - which are (nearly) identical to the 7506. I found a pair of these BT cans for $59 via Amazon Warehouse Deals - no damage to the headphones, just the box. 17 hours of bluetooth, built-in microphone for taking calls, and the same (mostly) drivers I've come to love... I felt vindicated and no longer cared about Apple's stupid dongle.
  
 I've only had them for a few days, so I haven't had time to "break-in" the drivers, but I'm satisfied so far... especially for the price. Bluetooth isn't wired, but at least these aren't Beats. Bleh. There is a more expensive option beyond this too. Sony makes a bluetooth & noise-canceling version of these (again, using the same driver as the V6) but they're significantly more expensive: $200+ everywhere I looked. They have the ability to use a wired or a bluetooth connection - you'll always get better audio quality via a wired connection. Since I didn't care about the noise canceling, and I already have the 7506, I couldn't justify paying the higher price.
  
 Maybe at some point, I'll open up these new bluetooth cans and add a 1/8 inch audio jack. LOL. If there's room, that would be way cheaper than bumping up to the noise-canceling version.
  
 I'm not sure why I hadn't seen or heard of these bluetooth options previously. They're really hard to find online outside of Amazon. It doesn't seem like many stores carry either version. Very weird. I haven't found any information about Sony discontinuing them or bad reviews listing defects or problems... no news is good news, right? That said, if you're actually interested in these, I'd suggest you head over to Amazon and snag one of the warehouse deals before they're gone. You're not gonna find a better pair of bluetooth headphones for that price.


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## atarione

I have just completed my own V6 detachable cable mod... I didn't feel like grinding the cable exit hole down so I have just used epoxy to hold the 3.5mm jack in.. pretty ~easy mod  ... a little fiddly no major problems here..   makes these much more portable ..


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## txoutback

atarione said:


> I have just completed my own V6 detachable cable mod... I didn't feel like grinding the cable exit hole down so I have just used epoxy to hold the 3.5mm jack in.. pretty ~easy mod  ... a little fiddly no major problems here..   makes these much more portable ..


 
  
 That looks great... what part/number did you use for the 3.5mm jack?


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## atarione

txoutback said:


> That looks great... what part/number did you use for the 3.5mm jack?


 
  
  
 thank you.. The jack I used was a Philmore No. 504K.. I bought mine at the local Fry's store.
  
 http://www.frys.com/product/3343172
  
  
 HOWEVER:  fair disclaimer.. looks wise I'm pretty satisfied..but it is a bit kludgy if I'm honest..   the jack is meant to go thru and then be secured by a nut on the out side.. I didn't want to grind down the cable exit and so the jack doesn't really stick out of the hole at all, let alone far enough to use a nut.   I secured the jack using epoxy which seems to be holding quite well.      
  
 The other issue with my approach is that the Sony's have very small about off clearance by the cable exit.. so having the 3.5mm jack flush mounted where mine is will be a challenge depending on the connector size of the 3.5mm cable you want to use..     honestly you will almost certainly wind up with wear marks on the earcup below the 3.5 jack.   I am using a 6ft Kabeldirekt cable atm.. which fits (but does rub on the earcup.. however this seems to make the cable less prone to pulling out. =p
  
  
 https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Aux-Cable-Auxiliary-Headphone/dp/B00DI8A05Q/ref=pd_day0_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00RXNUELM&pd_rd_r=8Z1NZJ5606CD71HBBKB8&pd_rd_w=E7Oue&pd_rd_wg=y8VOX&refRID=8Z1NZJ5606CD71HBBKB8&th=1
  
  
  
 I'm happy with my results.. but I feel like the above should be mentioned.. it is possible I may try to find a different jack or give up and grind down the cable exit bit to all securing the jack with the nut..   with the jack sticking further out cable clearance would be improved.


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## toecari

sonymdr750611 said:


> Here's the album:
> Sony MDR 7506 Bluetooth + Detachable Cable + Beyerdynamics Pads Mod
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/lORBc
> ...




FREAKINAWESOME!! When you took apart the bluetooth receiver did you just take it out of the plastic housing? How would you add an external mic?


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## txoutback

I finally got around to doing this. I am happy with it, though I need to touch up where my file scratched the paint a little. No biggie, these are my knockin about headphones anyway.
  

  
 I used radio shack part# 274-0249. It has a *very* solid grip on the plug.


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## san14

I tried this method and it worked great on my 7506, I drilled a 0.5mm bigger hole then used a M6x0.5 thread tap and just screwed the jack in place. The hole in the headphone was 4.5mm deep same as the thread on the jack so now it sits flush.


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## CaribouHunter

san14, do you have a link to the 3.5mm jack you used? Or is it one already listed in this thread? I like the idea of not removing any material from the cans. I think this would also make a more robust jack over the mod where that section is removed.


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## openfly

Not sure how helpful this is, but I did cad up some out casings for the mdr-v6 drivers.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84557  here are some STLs  I did this originally for a bluetooth mod.  But later went a bit nuts with it and started attaching antlers and such to em.  Was pretty fun.

https://github.com/openfly/openscad/tree/master/sony-mdr-v6  <--- has openscad source for the design.

Figured might be helpful with your work.


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## txoutback

san14 that looks like it came from the factory that way. Great job.


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## san14

CaribouHunter said:


> san14, do you have a link to the 3.5mm jack you used? Or is it one already listed in this thread? I like the idea of not removing any material from the cans. I think this would also make a more robust jack over the mod where that section is removed.



Sorry for the late reply. I used a Lumberg KLB-4, this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KLB-4-Soc...367872&hash=item2cc7f5d8f3:g:oQcAAOSwrWZZ4RKW


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## atarione

So I  broke a wire on my mod'd V6's ... while fixing it I decided to grind down the bump by the cable exit and fix the 3.5mm jack with the nut ..  so my v2 V6 mod


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## demevalos

tuna and headphone mods, i like your style


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## Gustavo Murillo Vega

Is possible to do the mod outside the earcup like the cable of the Superlux hd668b? Either with male or female.
 I'm tempted to try to cut and peel off the cable to see if it can be done, which would not need soldering. 
 I haven't seen no one commenting in this option. Here's what I mean, if you don't know the Superlux.


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## atarione

hi... you can certainly do a superlux pig tail mod... however the stock cable is a nightmare to work with (enameled)  If I was going to do a pig tail I  would 100% take them apart desolder the stock cable (save it that way you could undo the mod later if you wanted for whatever reason) ..it is super easy to desolder the stock cable from the driver with a minimum of soldering skills and then I would personally use a new cable for the pig tail.. one that tins more easily for soldering to driver and to male / female driver (whatever you choose) on the other end.

If You  use the stock cable you are going to have to get the enamel coating off and it is a pain .. such that I wouldn't bother personally...

unless I wanted to get super audiophile~ish I'd probably just buy a ~decent patch 3.5 patch cable and cut one end off to solder to the driver..


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## Gustavo Murillo Vega (Dec 11, 2017)

atarione said:


> hi... you can certainly do a superlux pig tail mod... however the stock cable is a nightmare to work with (enameled)  If I was going to do a pig tail I  would 100% take them apart desolder the stock cable (save it that way you could undo the mod later if you wanted for whatever reason) ..it is super easy to desolder the stock cable from the driver with a minimum of soldering skills and then I would personally use a new cable for the pig tail.. one that tins more easily for soldering to driver and to male / female driver (whatever you choose) on the other end.
> 
> If You  use the stock cable you are going to have to get the enamel coating off and it is a pain .. such that I wouldn't bother personally...
> 
> unless I wanted to get super audiophile~ish I'd probably just buy a ~decent patch 3.5 patch cable and cut one end off to solder to the driver..


Thank you. Then there's no point in doing something harder (if possible) than soldering... I guess I'll stick to the coiled cable untill it breaks and then do the soldering and drilling stuff, so I have an excuse to mess with the headphones. Although I like san14 product.


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## bamboozledguy

san14 said:


> I tried this method and it worked great on my 7506, I drilled a 0.5mm bigger hole then used a M6x0.5 thread tap and just screwed the jack in place. The hole in the headphone was 4.5mm deep same as the thread on the jack so now it sits flush.



Sorry for digging this thread up again but I'm doing this mod and wanted to compliment you on the job you did. Your mod looks very professional and Sony should take some cues from you.


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## mer2329

txoutback said:


> I finally got around to doing this. I am happy with it, though I need to touch up where my file scratched the paint a little. No biggie, these are my knockin about headphones anyway.
> 
> I used radio shack part# 274-0249. It has a *very* solid grip on the plug.



I used radioshack part 274-0246
(contacts enclosed, with the solder pads coming out the bottom) 
Soldered it up, then bent the contacts out of the way. 

I also attached a strip connecter to the wire, connected it to my computer, and just plug in when I'm ready. 
As for the wire I use what I ger off ebay/ali/wish. with a android mic and volume buttons. 

I am really happy with wire with the small controler with a apple/android switch (p
This one works really well with my phone, PC, PS4, media center (I have another wire for that.) 
Unfortunately it shorted after about a 6-12 months of use) 

However one thing I noticed when I replace my pads is that the screws in one cup got rusty. 
I Would like to replace them is i knew what size they were.


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## d2dsf

san14 said:


> I tried this method and it worked great on my 7506, I drilled a 0.5mm bigger hole then used a M6x0.5 thread tap and just screwed the jack in place. The hole in the headphone was 4.5mm deep same as the thread on the jack so now it sits flush.



Thanks for the tip on this. I wasn't going to do this mod since I didn't like how the other jacks made the headphones look, but this looks straight up OEM.

I wasn't not successful in using the thread tap (it just made a hole, no threads...) so I used some hot glue to keep the jack in place.


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