# Maverick Audio TubeMagic D1 (DAC/Amp) - Condensed FAQ and Info Thread



## _Spanky_

[size=large]TubeMagic D1 DAC/Amp[/size]
  [size=medium]Maverick Audio Website[/size]
Head-Fi Product Page

 D1 (DAC/Amp) Discussion and Review Thread D1 (DAC/Amp) Condensed FAQ and Info Thread D2 (Dedicated DAC) - Review, FAQ & Info Thread D2 (Dedicated DAC) - Head-Fi Product Page A1 (Hybrid Amp) Discussion and Review Thread A1 (Hybrid Amp) Condensed FAQ and Info Thread
 

   
  [size=x-large]Information[/size]
 
  [size=medium]*Introduction*[/size]


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First off, I, Spanky, am not an employee of Maverick Audio. I'm not getting paid or re-imbursed to write any of this. This post and thread is meant as a place to condense the knowledge of the TubeMagic D1 by Maverick Audio. In the First Thread answers to questions were being posted multiple times. With this thread, all the info and testing can be shown on the first post so users don't have to scour the entire thread for an answer to a simple question. If you are a TubeMagic D1 owner, feel free to contribute with your findings. I will do my best to keep up on this thread and update the first post. Please try to keep this thread discussion-free, only post if you are adding information. For discussion please visit the First Thread.This thread (and the other condensed FAQ thread) may not be 100% accurate. I strive to add all information possible and make sure it can be verified. I can't be held responsible for anything that goes wrong from information you gathered in this thread. However, I'll gladly take credit for anything good that happens 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  If for some reason I'm not updating this thread or something and someone else wants to take it over and update it, that is fine with me. There is a source included at the bottom of the post. I only ask that you try to contact me before taking it over. If I don't respond within a reasonable amount of time, then go for it. To the person that takes it over: I give permission for a mod to empty or delete this thread in case someone else takes it over. Also, try not to be biased or remove/modify helpful information.


 
  [size=medium]*What is it?*[/size]


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Simply, it's a DAC and Amp combo. It accepts USB, Coaxial and Optical digital signals as well as RCA and 1/4" analog signals. If digital, you can choose to have a pre-amp or line-level output or (and for analog inputs) you can amplify it and send it out the 1/4" headphone jack.
     





 Stock Version Inside Picture: (Click to view full size)





 
  [size=medium]*FAQ's*[/size]


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 The original TubeMagic (A1) was a Xiansheng DAC-01 clone (picture/ post - compare with above) but has since evolved into a more thoroughly researched and tested unit with several modifications and upgrades, not to mention a better looking case.
 Approximate dimensions: 10 1/4" (26cm) wide at the faceplate, 10" (25.4cm) wide body, 2.5" (6.35cm) tall w/feet (feet are .5" [1.27cm] tall), 6.5" (16.51cm) deep (knobs add on about 3/4" [1.9cm] to that).
 The Tube has nothing to do with the headphone output. It is strictly for the "Tube Pre Out" connections on the back of the unit.
 To open the unit, you need a 3/32" or 2.5mm hex bit or allen wrench to unscrew the 4 top screws and a #2 Phillips screwdriver for the bottom 4 screws, the case shell then slides from the front to the back.
 There are opamp sockets inside and the opamps can be swapped with success. Favored combinations will be listed below. Do test DC Offset after connecting opamps but before plugging in headphones. The opamp closest to the tube is the DAC opamp, the furthest one is for the headphone. You do not need to swap them both with the same kind of opamp nor do you need to swap them both at the same time. It's basically 2 seperate circuits that happen to use opamps. Replacing the DAC opamp will change how the DAC sounds and performs, replacing the amp opamp will change how the amp sounds. I suggest even if DC Offset is within an 'acceptable' range, to plug in a crappy pair of headphones and test them for a while before plugging in your nice expensive cans.
 There are technically 3 versions of the TubeMagic D1. The first is the original design, it does not have the "Line-in" 1/4" jack in the front and does not have opamp sockets. The second was upgraded with a new front panel layout including the "Line-in" 1/4" jack and opamp sockets inside. The third one only the following differences; lowered gain output by about 20% and new volume control for more linear control. The third may be the current one shipping but ask Ryan (Owner of Maverick Audio) before purchasing.
 The painting factory has trouble with one batch of the front panel, the painting is not "hard" enough due to extreme cold weather and could be easily scratched off, the issue has been fixed with later batches.
 The "Direct" button is for bypassing the volume control on the "Line-Out" outputs. Press it in to disable the volume control.
 There is a slight noise/buzz when switching between digital input and analog input. This is normal as the "Source" knob is physically switching sources.
 Due to standards in USB 1.1 Audio, the USB output works on pretty much all operating systems that support USB. The TubeMagic D1's USB has been tested on Windows, Linux and Mac by several users here.
 The USB outputs at 16-Bit/48kHz by default. It is reported that you can change this in such programs like JRiver Media Center and Foobar. (See below) You can also change this with the USB Driver. (also see below)
 It is speculated that the DAC is a CS4334. Original Post | Sketch



 
  [size=medium]*USB Driver*:[/size]


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There was information in this thread to get 24-Bit / 96kHz supposedly bit-perfect working with the USB on the D1. It has since been discovered that even though the rate can be changed, there's some kind of hardware issue (either design or chip limitation) and only 16-Bit / 48kHz is being sent to the DAC itself. Because of this, any other format that's sent through USB is resampled to that. Depending on the format you send, it may noticeably degrade audio quality. However, it should be bit-perfect if you send 16-Bit / 48kHz but there's no real way of knowing.
 All of the old information from this thread on USB input can be found here:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/head-fi/mav_condensed/usb_driver/oldpost.html


 
  [size=medium]*Warranty*:[/size]


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There is a 1 year warranty. After the 1 year, you can still receive support and help and possibly buy replacement parts should your unit fail.
 Opening the case, swapping opamps and tubes are both ok and retain the warranty. Any other modifications will void the warranty.


 
  [size=medium]*Do's and Don'ts*:[/size]


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 Do not attempt to connect headphones directly to the "Tube Pre Out" connections on the back of the unit. Several users report the output being electrically hot and would require hardware such as a dedicated amplifier before connecting headphones.
   Quote:


  Originally Posted by *hodgjy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ Most hi-end gear sends a line-level output of 2.0v, and is the norm in Europe. In the U.S.A, a lot of mid and low end gear send a line-level output of ~0.5v. 2.0v is still within specs of most gear.
 When I measured the output of the D1, using a combo if the "direct button" and then maxing out the volume pot, I got these measurements:
 Tube pre-out in direct mode maxes out at 2.2v. Using the volume pot, 3:00 maxes out at 2.2v as well.
 Non-tube out is slightly cooler. It still maxes out above 2.0v, but doesn't hit the 2.2v as often as the tube pre-out._

 

 Do let the tube warm up before using it:
   Quote:


  Originally Posted by *grokit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ At least 5 minutes to guarantee the prevention of clipping, maybe another ten to reach its full potential, in my experience._

 




 
  [size=medium]*Legis' RMAA Measurements*:[/size]


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Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Legis* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ I measured Maverick with RMAA and E-MU 0404 PCI: This is not meant to be comparison of the sound card and Mave, but I'll still tell you that Maverick is much better sounding than E-MU.

Measured specs of E-MU 0404

Measured specs of Maverick from left to right
 1. Optical in, normal out (white line in other pictures)
 2. Optical in, tube out (green line in other pictures)
 3. Analog in, normal out (cyan? line in other pictures)
 4. Analog in, tube out (purple line in other pictures)

Freq response
Noise floor
Dynamic range
THD% of the DAC (0,012%)
THD% of the tube (0,344%)
IMD% over freq

 Maverick D1 sounds damn good, and measures well. None actual flaws can be found at least to my eyes.

 - IMD% nor THD% does not rise towards the high frequecies,
 - Digital input's noise floor is low, and the DAC's specs are met.
 - when analog inputs are used Maverick does not add any extra noise to the signal (noise floor ~-106dB of E-MU compared to the ~-103 dB of the Maverick)
 - does not add any distortion to analog signals through analog in (E-MU 0,0009% v. Mave 0,0007%), unless wanted.

 All in all, very good results._




 
  [size=medium]*Audio Routing*:[/size]


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Quote: 





mavwong said:


> To be exact,
> 
> Out of the DAC > Volume Pot -> Headphone Amp (opamp on the right)
> > Direct Button (Enabled) -> gain stage (opamp on the center)
> ...


 

  


 
   
  [size=x-large]User-Posted Pictures[/size]
 
  [size=medium]*TubeMagic A1 (First Version)*:[/size]


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FraGGleR: 1 (Front Panel PCB Shot)
 jmzzz01: 1 | 2
 MartinV56: 1
 JustVisit (Ryan): 1


 
  [size=medium]*TubeMagic D1 (Second Version)*:[/size]


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bearmann: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9
 Bzer: 1 | 2
 igotyofire: 1
 lameduck: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5
 thearrow: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6
 TheBigCW: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17
 vhaarr: 1
 dorokusai: 1 | 2
 KyleShufelt: 1
 reiserFS (Skyline Mod): 1 | 2 | 3 | 4
 Spanky: Windows Vista/7 Icon (7zip) | PCB Backside Images: 1 | 2 | 3


 
  [size=x-large]Modifications[/size]
 These won't hurt your warranty.
 
  [size=medium]*Tube Rolling*:[/size]


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How-To:
 Remove wire holder. Wiggle stock tube side to side slightly and pull straight out. Push new tube in keeping an eye on the pin placement. Helpful Image
*Tube*  *Result*
 NOS GE 5670W  Softer and relaxed, good for Grado headphones.
 Raytheon 5670 Windmill Getter  By far better female vocals, silky smooth, and great bass detail.
 Western 396A  Great mids, greater frequency extension, darker background, less shrill.

 6922/6DJ8 tube doesn't work with D1


 
  [size=medium]*Opamp Swapping*:[/size]


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*DAC* [U5]  *Amp* [U6]  *Result*
 LT1364CN8#PBF -- LM4562NA/NOPB -- Less shrill, more detailed bass, very low DC offset.
 OPA627  N/A  Clean and laidback. Great for grainy/bad recordings.
 Sun HDAM  N/A  Huge & detailed soundstage.
 N/A  AD823  Forward, in your face. Good for warm 'phones. DC Offset: 120/180mV
 N/A  LME49720  Neutral and natural. DC Offset: 120/180mV

 N/A means that the stock (LF343N) opamp was left in place.

 Bad opamps: (High DC Offset, oscillation or clipping)
AD797, AD843, LME49860, LME49720 | Audio-GD Moon & Earth HDAM

 [size=medium]*Adding Heatsinks*:[/size]
 Due to talks about heat and the possibilty of the LT1364 getting hot in some circuits (it's a high-speed opamp), I, Spanky, decided to whip out the dremel and and make an overkill solution. Keep in mind, there's dozens and hundreds of TubeMagic D1 owners and there have been no reported heat-related issues such as overheating or damage from heat. Personally, I don't like heat and if it can be reduced with minimal effort and cost, why not. I went ahead and cut up a heatsink, added some Arctic Silver 5, and applied them with pressure to both opamps inside the TubeMagic D1 then hotglued them onto the opamp. This has an added benefit; it makes the opamps easier to remove. Nobody, including myself, has tested the temps of the opamps or the D1 itself to find out whether or not it may be a real issue but again, if you can reduce heat and prolong the components lifespan, why not. Here's some pictures of what I did:
 Opamp Heatsinks: 1 | 2
 Case Heatsink: 1
 (Case heatsink may void warranty since it's a modification to the unit, but it could be easily removed. Contact Ryan if you are concerned about it)


 
  [size=medium]*Skyline Rev.2*:[/size] [ link ]


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Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> I'm now taking orders for this mod if you're too lazy to do it yourself or don't have the tools, keep in mind that I'm offering my free time for you so I'll have to charge additonal 20$.
> 
> Skyline Rev.2 - Plexiglass
> 3 x sheets of Plexiglass - 7$
> ...





> It has come to my attention that a lot of people still PM me for the Skyline mod. While I'm still happy to take you through the steps, I don't do the mod myself anymore due to work. Hope this clears things up a bit.





 
   
  [size=x-large]Warranty-Breaking Modifications[/size]
 Don't attempt any of these without experience with PCB soldering.
 
  [size=medium]*Cap Replacing*:[/size]


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Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lameduck* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ the two wima tube output caps seem kinda wimpy._

 

   Quote:


  Originally Posted by *JustVisit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ The two wima caps are rated 0.1uF/400V, you can try to replace it with some better caps of 0.1uF/(100V-400V). Don't forget also change the two small caps next the wima cap on the left ( C48, C47), they are rated at 4.7-6.8uF/100V._

 

   Quote:


  Originally Posted by *lameduck* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ I'm planning to replace two Wima output coupling cap with Gad-Viva or Auricaps and most or all other 10uF caps with Muse(green) caps. Power coupling caps in the D1 are Rubycon so I think they are acceptable._




 
  [size=medium]*Gain Lowering*:[/size] (Thanks to bearmann and Ryan for the info)


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*A.* Lowering the gain of the headphone amp:
 Lower R54/R55 (default value should be between 22k ohm and 30k ohm) to 15k ohm or lower. (bearmann favors 4.7k ohm for his ATH-W100 cans).

*B.* Lowering the gain of the line out:
 Lower R42/R43 (default value should be around 3k ohm).

*C.* Lowering the gain of the tube out:
 Not possible in this design.

 For A and B you can use your generic 1/4W 1% metal film resistor.
 I, Spanky, plan to use a Vishay/Dale 5.62K ohm 1/4W resistor along with varying values up to 15k ohm. I personally don't know if using a quality resistor will be reflected in sound quality or not but at about 30 cents a piece, it's worth it to me.
 bearmann also did something quite ingenious for the resistors; he took apart an 8-pin solder dip socket and soldered one pin in for each leg of the resistors. This allows him to effectively swap out the resistors to get the gain he wants. Click here for a picture of his work.


 
  [size=x-large]Unboxing & Initial Impressions[/size]
 
  [size=medium]*Spanky's Unboxing Pictures*:[/size]
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

 [size=medium]*Initial Impressions & Reviews*:[/size]


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Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DannyBuoy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ I have had my D1 since Dec. 29th and I have been very impressed with the sound, features and build quality of this unit as well as the VERY professional and courteous email threads I have had with Ryan regarding his equipment._

 

   Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jmzzz01* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ I've used it (the headphone portion) only by playing flac files with my Squeezebox, switching between both the DAC in the Squeezebox and the one in the Maverick, and I am pleased with the way it sounds. I couldn't really tell a difference between DACs, only that one had slightly more volume, but I don't remember which one that was.

 It has a laid-back quality, which I like, that enables you to listen for hours without fatigue. Some people prefer a more stark, clinical sound (i.e. Grado, as opposed to Senn) and they may be disappointed with it. I was surprised at how good it sounds, and I don't really use headphones much anymore. I prefer listening through speakers when I am at home and only use headphones at work or when traveling, as a rule. (My usual at-work headphone rig is a CD player running directly through an RS XP-7.)

 Overall, this unit is a steal for it's sound quality, as long as you aren't picky about it being enclosed in a modest case and perhaps having to deal with some small manufacturing issues as I mentioned in the post._

 

   Quote:


  Originally Posted by *boomy3555* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ I had a chance to hook up the Maverick with the Marantz DV6001 DVD/SACD at the recent Seattle meet. Many tried it and thought it was pretty good, especially for the price but there were so many superior amps there, it kinda got lost in the shuffle. I find the solid state headphone out be quite powerful and clear. I still prefer tube flavor so as the Headphone out is not part of the tube section I have listed the Maverick for sale. I just don't have enough use for a pre-amp which is basically what the Tube section is all about. I will miss the multiple inputs but I think I'll stick with my EF2 until I can afford something balanced.._

 

   Quote:


  Originally Posted by *moodyrn* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ This thing is more powerful than the compass I use to have(which is a very powerful amp). It drives all of my cans without any hint of distortion. My only complaint is, the gain needs to be a lot lower. 10:00 with my 600ohm sextetts is very loud. It hurts to go anywhere near 12:00 with them. My hd580 rarely sees anything past 9:00. My 44ohm shures and 40ohm ad1000s sounds great. As a result of the gain being so high, there is a little hiss with my lower ohm cans. It's not loud, but with no music playing, it's noticable. This is one area that the compass beats it. The compass was completely quiet with all of my cans. But I'm starting to enjoy this more than I enjoyed my compass. It just sounds more neutral, airy, and detailed in comparison. I did really enjoy the compass laid back sound, but it was lacking in detail. It doesn't sound as organic and 3 dimensional as my ming da, but It's every bit as powerful. My ming da also have a much wider soundstage as well. But, I'm really surprised by how good the headphone amp is. I remember reading on another forum of people saying the the headphone amp was on par with a 300.00 amp. I have to agree. In my opinion, just the amp alone is well worth the asking price. The dac is pretty good as well. Compared to dacs I've owned in the 200-400.00 price range, I would rank it better than the compass, valab, zero and zhaoulu. The valab was slightly more musical, but it lacking in details and soundstage compared to this. The compass just sounds more digital in comparison, and zero and zhaolu isn't even worth mentioning. I'm very happy with this so far. The comparisons to the dacs I used to own is from memory, but I do have a pretty good memory about how they sounded and how they compared to the dac in my pioneer elite receiver. Neither on was significantly better. Some were not as good, but I can clearly hear an improvement with this dac._

 

   Quote:


  Originally Posted by *grokit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_ My D1 with the NOS GE 5670W tube finally arrived today; I just hooked it up and could not be any happier with it so far. It feels like a substantial product; no traces of cheap plastic, with a very solid, all-metal feel and tight tolerances. I am actually very surprised with the initial impression of quality as I was kind of expecting a cheap box that hopefully sounded good.

 And it does sound good, right out of the box; it definitely adds a great toslink-based DAC option and more flexibility to my main system. I have the tube stage going out to my HT receiver, and the regular SS pre-out to my dedicated headphone tube amp (Indeed hybrid, waiting for EF5). The DAC is being fed by a cheap 12-foot optical cable with 16-bit 44.1 lossless, and it sounds very good in my system.

 The built-in headphone amplifier section is also better than expected. I was expecting it to be over-driven in the gain department, and it wasn't that hot at all. From what I have read earlier in this thread, I am guessing that Maverick improved the attenuation curve in the D1 somehow by reducing the gain.

 I found that the volume control of the D1 had a decent curve for both my ESW9As and my K701s, not an easy feat. While my Indeed hybrid sounds a little more powerful, it does not feel this solid and has poor attenuation; I am attributing both characteristics to hopped-up gain. The Maverick also has a smoother, more-rounded sound, even after rolling my NOS tube into the Indeed. Neither the D1 nor the NOS tube in the Indeed are burnt in.

edit: the rolled-in tube of the Indeed has had about 30 hours on it or so, and has put the Indeed slightly back in front in the headphone amp comparison. But it's $60 tube (doubling the value of the amp), so money well spent. I did not buy the D1 for the headphone amplifier section, it's a bonus and can have tubes rolled into it as well.

 So I am pleasantly surprised with the build quality, and the initial sound quality. The Maverick D1 seems to be a very versatile preamp/DAC/headphone amp, with a switchable tube stage, and mine seems to be very well built with no QC issues. For $219 shipped with the upgraded NOS tube, I was not expecting that much, frankly, and am quite pleased with it.

 This seems to be much more of a "keeper" than a "gimmick" component, overall. I would have still been pleased at a $300 price point, and expect the price of the D1 to either go up or it may help drive the market down. It has quite a few functions and does them all pretty well, and therefore owns its niche, IMO
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

   Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dorokusai* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
_  I was very impressed with the Maverick some time ago and wouldn't hesitate to use it again. It's a hi-fi bargain.

  MillerLiteScott brought down his Maverick tube pre-amp and we finally got some heavy duty amplification on the speakers from the CTC BBQ. It changed the whole soundstage and really took everything to another level. Top notch.

  A HUGE thanks to MillerLiteScott for lending me his Maverick Audio pre-amp. The Ayre was very nice but a tiny bit of tube goodness was needed for the RTiA9's top end. It worked out perfectly. The demos, while still a bit forward were softer than they would be normally and we played them more than expected because of it. It's interesting to see the synergy between a 12K amplifier and a $200 pre-amp work so wonderfully....it most certainly happened. The Ayre pre-amp never got hooked up again. Thanks Scott!
_




 
  [size=x-large]Thanks & Recognition[/size]
 


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Thanks to the following people for spreading this thread around the internet:
  
 http://93.167.198.111/forum_posts.asp?TID=76436&PID=772628&title=nogle-gode-hrebffer#772628
 http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1410518&st=0&p=33517944&#entry33517944
 http://forums.vr-zone.com/audiophiles-htpc-corner/499785-lobang-info-another-forum-maverick-audio-dac-w-tube-preamp-8.html#post7678280
 http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1029576&postcount=5
 http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/showthread.php/22647-Maverick-Tube-Magic-D1-Anyone-had-a-listen?p=336169&viewfull=1#post336169
 http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=78467.msg745322#msg745322
 http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=3441789&postcount=3
 http://www.hifivision.com/general-chit-chat/10925-coimbatore-hfv-nano-meet-9.html#post159961


 
  [size=x-large]Thread/Post Info[/size]
 


Spoiler



Version: 2.2 | Date: 9/25/2010 | Backup File | Old Head-Fi Backup File | PDF File (May be outdated) | Content Download (All pictures, files and everything you see in this thread)
  
*History:*
 v2.2 - Reverted post to saved file due to Head-Fi updates adding various bugs. Added a thanking section.
 v2.1 - Added reiserFS's Skyline Rev.2 mod available for sale. Added audio path diagram.
 v2.0 - Removed USB information. Added info about HDAM units. Changed some wording.
 v1.9 - Added tube rolling image and mini how-to. Added backside PCB images. Added speculation about DAC being CS4334.
 v1.8 - Minor changes to clarify model due to addition of TubeMagic A1 Hybrid Amp. Added reiserFS's pictures.
 v1.7 - Added comments from dorokusai. Added pictures from dorokusai and KyleShufelt.
 v1.6 - Added TheBigCW's pictures.
 v1.5 - Re-worked entire post with spoilers for easier info access. Fixed links for the new site. Added info about Linux 24-Bit 96kHz capabilities.
 v1.4 - Updated for Wiki post.
 v1.3 - Added Maverick Audio Website (how could I have forgotten this for so long???).
 v1.2 - Formatted opamp swaps a little better.
 v1.1 - Added unit dimensions in cm.
 v1.0 - Added unit dimensions and info about heatsinks.
 v0.9 - Added warning about LT1364 opamp.
 v0.8 - Added user-posted pictures, trimmed useless stuff, cropped shown pictures, re-worded several things, added option to download all content from the thread, added PDF download, added links to information, added Legis' RMAA measurements.
 v0.7 - Added warranty info.
 v0.6 - Added custom USB driver.
 v0.5 - Added info about output voltage, tube warm-up time, USB output on different OS's, info about the newest version and impressions of the Raytheon 5670 Windmill Getter and Western 396A.
 v0.4 - Minor organization, added cap replacing mod, 5670 tube impression and another review.
 v0.3 - Changed opamp names to reflect their full model number, added info on opening the case.
 v0.2 - Added info on Bit-Perfect via DirectSound, Spanky's Unboxing Pictures & Impressions.
 v0.1 - Initial Post.


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## Nakattack

nice job spanky, this is a well written concise thread. I really couldn't be rooted searching through 60+ pages, and this fills me in with all the info I needed.


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## _Spanky_

Yay! I'm glad this is already of use to someone 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks!


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## xcluded

Nicely written , spanky.

 Thumbs up.


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## jpstereo

Great job! Very nice work. Thank you!


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## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *xcluded* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Nicely written , spanky.

 Thumbs up. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

 Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jpstereo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Great job! Very nice work. Thank you!_

 

Thank you both 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If there's something I've forgotten or got wrong or things you wish to add, feel free to speak up.


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## matt27

excellent thread spanky! I just got my d1 a few days ago and I'm loving it. this thread will come in handy for sure.


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## jp_zer0

What I need is a knowledgeable reviewer to compare it to other products that are available on the market. There's a lot of noise from people with only 1 or 2 amps in their history.


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## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jp_zer0* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What I need is a knowledgeable reviewer to compare it to other products that are available on the market. There's a lot of noise from people with only 1 or 2 amps in their history._

 

You would find that in the discussion thread.


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## xcluded

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jp_zer0* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What I need is a knowledgeable reviewer to compare it to other products that are available on the market. *There's a lot of noise from people with only 1 or 2 amps in their history*._

 

I wouldn't call it a noise. That is an insult to the general community. I would call that a comment/opinion , if you ever learnt that word.

 Anyway , if you have eyes to see , there is a main discussion thread going on for that amp.


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## _Spanky_

Added a whole bunch of stuff. I'm only on page 25 of the original thread


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## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jp_zer0* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_What I need is a knowledgeable reviewer to compare it to other products that are available on the market. There's a lot of noise from people with only 1 or 2 amps in their history._

 

Or their first 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Well my first Dac/Amp. My other amp is diff.

 Regardless, for the price it was an upgrade in my system and thats all that matters for me. I think for newbies and the price it is worth it in spades. It also won't kill your bank account.


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## djnagle

First, GREAT JOB Spanky. Thanks for condensing all this data. I went to look for the OpAmps today and thought "Geez, how will I find the right ones with all these post"

 Second, we A/B the D1 with the DACMagic and 90% of the guys right off the bat perfered the D1. That was in a large group. Next week just a couple of us are getting together to do some serious listening to both. I'll report back.


----------



## millerlitescott

Which opamp is used in the pre-amp output (not the headphone jack) and which opamp is the correct/recommended replacement? Or is it both opamps.

 After all of my reading this is still unclear to me.

 Scott


----------



## _Spanky_

Thanks djnagle 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *millerlitescott* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Which opamp is used in the pre-amp output (not the headphone jack) and which opamp is the correct/recommended replacement?_

 

I think you should contact Ryan about this. I only see 2 opamps inside the TubeMagic and 1 is for the DAC and the other is for the headphone amp. I'm thinking that the SS pre-amp output just doesn't use an opamp and the Tube pre-amp output well... uses the tube 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 *EDIT*
 Added more info to the thread.


----------



## Eric_C

Great job, Spanky! I wish there were more of these threads around.


----------



## _Spanky_

Buy me the hardware and I'll gather the info and make a thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Thanks for your support Eric


----------



## ninjikiran

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/6402531-post1131.html

 ---^ Pending information if anyone wants to test and verify and share results it would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## weibby

actually the D1 is a xiangsheng DAC1 mutation.
 Components are mainly from Xiangsheng.


----------



## _Spanky_

Added driver thanks to ninjikiran 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 weibby, I mentioned that in the post.


----------



## jasonwc

Spanky,

 I didn't see any info about the warranty period in the FAQ or on Ryan's site, nor did I see any info about which version of the D1 is shipping. I contacted Ryan today and he got back to me in less than an hour. This info may be useful for the FAQ:

 Hi Jason,

 Let me try to answer your questions:

 1) Warranty period of this unit is 1 year. It is made by old school components, therefore, the unit should work just fine for a very long period of time. Even if there is a problem after 1 year, we will still be there to support this unit, just drop us an email.

 2) All new units have the gain reduced. In addition, we will test each unit with 32ohm low impedance headphone before shipment, you don't need to worry about the gain problem now, it has been solved.

 Please let me know if you have any further question.

 Cheers,

 Ryan

 Customer Support
 Maverick Audio


----------



## _Spanky_

Great stuff jasonwc. I had planned to shoot an e-mail to Ryan but thought he was still on vacation. Thanks, I'll add it when I'm done with the XP tutorial for the USB driver


----------



## _Spanky_

Finished first version of the Driver Installation Tutorial and added warranty info.


----------



## sfrancis

Spanky: May I suggest that the Hyperlinks be made more visible, e.g., bigger/bold fonts ?

 Thanks


----------



## _Spanky_

sfrances, on what specifically?


----------



## sfrancis

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_sfrances, on what specifically?_

 

Sorry I was not clear. Was looking for the "inside picture" link and took me a while to find it as it's buried inside the page and not quite easy to see.


----------



## _Spanky_

That's alright. Maybe I should make a pictures section and put a lot of user-posted pictures along with detailed ones. There's always improvements to be made


----------



## weibby

how do we know its the "gain-reduced" unit?


----------



## _Spanky_

If you already have one, there's a serial number inside the unit. If you email Ryan with this, I'm sure he can tell you. Otherwise, ones that are shipping now should be reduced.


----------



## _Spanky_

Added user-posted pictures (not finished yet), trimmed useless stuff, cropped shown pictures, re-worded several things.


----------



## sfrancis

Thanks for the great work, Spanky. The changes make sense. This makes finding information much easier and I believe many people will find it helpful.


----------



## neddamttocs

Thanks, between this thread and reading the other thread (all of it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





) i have placed my order for the D1 ... cant wait till it arrives.


----------



## _Spanky_

Glad this helped neddamttocs. Although, you don't have to read the other thread completely 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I've gone through many times and pulled as much information as I could to make it easier.

 Updated to v0.9 - Added warning about LT1364 opamp.


----------



## neddamttocs

It was slow at work so it gave me something to do.


----------



## evenflow

Could someone please post the physical dimensions of the D1. 

 Cheers


----------



## _Spanky_

I was thinkin I should add that to the thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 10 1/4" wide (faceplate)
 10" wide (body)
 2.5" tall w/feet (feet are .5" tall)
 6.5" deep (knobs add on about 3/4" to that)


----------



## ninjikiran

Should stick a probe on the opamp and try to record its temperature after a few hours of music/being on. Then check the temperature limitations of it, chances are it is well within limit. Though a quick fix solution if heat is an issue would probably be to take out the tube if you are not using it since it seems to create the most heat(and completely slipped my mind when I felt the top of mine).

 If you are handy enough you could probably cut a fan socket and stick 1 fan over the opamp and use the other holes as exhaust for hot air. I doubt any component's self generated heat is going to cause damage to itself or the D1 itself. If anything the chip burns out but the socket and D1 should be ok, last time I burnt out a chip that's all that happened and considering the price of that opamp it can easily be replaced.


----------



## _Spanky_

Did you miss this post:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...ml#post6420422
 Or are you just adding your thoughts?

 *EDIT*
 Added dimensions and info about adding heatsinks.


----------



## sirlukas

Spanky, great OP thank you!
 Could you please add dimensions in cm as well as those weird numbers you call inches please? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 PS. Just realised I never posted here since registering, so "Hi" everyone!
 PS1. Need to update my details too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 PS2. Is there no way of altering the USB sampling in Winamp?


----------



## _Spanky_

sirlukas, I'm honored that your first post is in my thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I added google-converted dimensions in cm, keep in mind they are approximate and most likely a mm or two off. Also, try the USB driver, then you should be able to set it to whatever you want in Winamp.


----------



## sirlukas

It is my pleasure too, so many years of not posting, I wonder how did I manage 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW, this DAC/Amp seems to be the best value for money when it comes to features.
 Does it really sound good, as in is it worth getting it for my PS3 (optical), PC (USB) and Denon AH-D2000 (or Shure SE420)?


----------



## _Spanky_

There's several people here that use it with their PS3/XBOX and really enjoy it. I'm not about to down-talk USB but I really like SPDIF 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It is a great intro unit with room to add on and upgrade, I don't think you'll be disappointed.


----------



## sirlukas

If I only had a proper sound card, I would probably use SPDIF, but in my case I need USB. I was looking at Audio gd Fun, iBasso D10, Beresford Caiman and Maverick D1 (which I favour for its price 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ). I am not sure if it is all worth spending that much of money anyway.


----------



## _Spanky_

If you're just using onboard sound now, it will be a large improvement. Even for me, going from a hot-rodded X-Fi with a CMOY amp it was an improvement. Not to be mean, but you should post in the discussion thread


----------



## Mambosenior

Spanky,

 Thank you for your hard work in giving full details on the D1. Your enthusiasm got to me and I ordered it. It arrived yesterday. I can only say at this time that the sound is quite spectacular...price or no price! Have listened straight out; from MacBook Pro through USB, and connecting an SACD player into analog in.

 When it has enough break-in, I'll compare it with the Paradisea 3. I can tell you, though, that the USB of the Paradisea 3 does not have as good a sound as D1. Using the Chinese tube (will replace later), what impresses is the enormous sound-stage in orchestral and highly complex instrumental music (ie. Pink Floyd’s “DSOTM” SACD, Stravinsky’s “Rite of Spring”). Jostling my memory of the DAC1, which I didn't like at all for its too-bright presentation, the D1 is infinitely preferable for my taste in sound. No glare.

 As a DAC, I doubt it could swim in the same waters as my Audiomecca Enkianthus, but will compare when I get around my main system in the near future.

 So far, it seems like a screaming bargain!


----------



## _Spanky_

Mambosenior, thank you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I get excited when people such as yourself appreciate this thread. When people come forward and say that they appreciate it and made an informed purchase because of it, it makes it all worthwhile. I don't know how much more I can add/update to it but I'll go through it again


----------



## jpstereo

Just popped in a NOS GE 5670W today. What a nice improvement. Definitely smoother and more lush than stock tube. Highly recommended. Cheap and easy to do!


----------



## Mambosenior

Ordered 2 NOS GE 5670W ($5.50/ea), although the Chinese tube has not been a turkey.

 So far the D1 sounds astonishing. At the moment: MBP ---> Trends UD 10.1 (Locus Design "Polestar") ---> Maverick D1 (Coax 1.5.m - Virtual Dynamics) ---> DV 3322 (upgraded tubes) ---> HD-800. I stuck the Trends in there just for curiosity's sake, although, maybe, I can detect a slight improvement with it. (That "maybe," is "very" maybe.)

 Enormous sound stage (well, the HD-800 contributes to this also), great imaging, and non-digitatis. Has impressed me enough that I am thinking of buying a second one for another system.

 Wow! A hell of a surprise.


----------



## sfrancis

Mambosenior: your setup is quite interesting. It appears that you use D1 as a pre-amp and use Trend for DAC ? Also, I assume you used the tube output of D1 to connect to DV3322 ? Any comparison between the D1 headphone amp vs. DV3322 output ?

 Thanks


----------



## Mambosenior

sfrancis,

 The Trends is the "transport" (if you will) the D1 is the DAC (bypassing the volume pot), and I am using the tube output into the DV which controls the volume (cabling I've tried is Ridge Street "Poiema!" and Pure Note "Paragon Enhanced." Prefer, so far, the RS).

 The sound from the D1's headphone output is only the SS. When I first tried it, it had excellent sound but the soundstage was more front-back with limited width. I attributed that to the unit being new. It definitely runs my HD-800 (stock cable) with authority, though--top volume setting I could listen at without being forced to reveal my wife's true age from the torture--was 9: - 10:.

 I'll connect a cheapo headphone to the D1 soon and see how much it improves with time. Will report later on that. I am also going to try it soon as a full preamp, with a Threshold 400A amp pushing a classic pair of KEF monitor speakers. (I doubt that this last idea would produce good results but I am curious.)

 Will also *attempt* (I am, by nature, too emotional to be a good reviewer) a comparison between the D1 and my only other DAC I have around at this time, the Paradisea 3 (WE tube). Maybe it's the "new toy" syndrome but I haven't hooked up the Paradisea since the D1 showed up.


----------



## sfrancis

Thanks, Mambosenior. Does not have a good grasp about sound stage yet but I'm curious how my HD650 will sound with a tube amp. Will be interested in your results about using D1 as preamp, headphone amp and DAC.

 One question: how does the tube in D1 interact with the tube in DV3322 ?

 BTW, I guess you are aware that the gain setting that comes with D1 is still a bit high. I have to change 2 resistors to lower that. See the main post.

 Last, I wonder if we should carry this discussion in the main thread ...


----------



## Mambosenior

sfrancis,

 My first headphone was the HD-650. The DV 3322 is glorious with that 'phone! In fact, I was itching to buy the DV337 (bigger is better, and all that malarcky) for the HD-800 but the 3322 has been so faultless that my "itch" has gone away. (By the way, my unit never had or developed hum, or other sonic disorders.)

 I did read (somewhere?) about the gain being too much in the D1. But mine--arrived a week ago--doesn't seem to suffer from that malady. (Huh!) In other words, I am getting no distortion and can find a good listening spot on the gain pot with any recording or sound file (flac). Could this problem have been resolved on the newer-built units? Maybe Ryan could answer this.

 I wasn't aware there was another thread for the D1 since I landed on this one in my search for enlightenment. (Spanky seems to have enumerated all pertinent facts about the D1 except, maybe, the unit's religious affiliation.) If we should transfer this discussion to another Head-Fi train track, let me know which one.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mambosenior* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I did read (somewhere?) about the gain being too much in the D1. But mine--arrived a week ago--doesn't seem to suffer from that malady. (Huh!) In other words, I am getting no distortion and can find a good listening spot on the gain pot with any recording or sound file (flac). Could this problem have been resolved on the newer-built units? Maybe Ryan could answer this._

 

Most likely you received one of the gain modded ones. I think Ryan reduced the gain by 30 or 40%, I can't remember which.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mambosenior* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spanky seems to have enumerated all pertinent facts about the D1 except, maybe, the unit's religious affiliation._

 

LOL I just had to quote that and put it in my signature


----------



## sfrancis

Mambosenior: main thread is here:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...4/index88.html

 I did measure the resistance of stock R54/R55 on my D1, which according to Ryan has already been reduced. It's 15k ohm. Still a little high for my like. After changing it to 4.75k, I find it's more acceptable.


----------



## Mambosenior

sfrancis,

 Thank you for the link. Will follow discussions there with interest.

 Spanky,

 If mine is one of the lowered-gain units: would it have enough gain to drive an amp and speakers? If not, I'll have Ryan adjust this on the next unit I order so I don't have to mess with the one I have now.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mambosenior* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Spanky,

 If mine is one of the lowered-gain units: would it have enough gain to drive an amp and speakers? If not, I'll have Ryan adjust this on the next unit I order so I don't have to mess with the one I have now._

 

Um, this is pure guesswork on my part but, the gain that's modded is for the headphone out, I don't think it would be ideal to hook up another amp via the 1/4" jack. I think you would want to use the tube preamp out in the back. As for speakers, I don't think this unit is meant to drive them directly, which again, you would hook them up to the tube preamp out, not the 1/4" headphone jack.


----------



## Mambosenior

Spanky,

 Thank you for letting me know that only the headphone gain is affected with the mod. I was thinking that it would impact ALL the outputs. I just tried it using it as a DAC/preamp with a Threshold 400A driving KEF 103.2 speakers. To get satisfactory volume with some classical music files, the gain was 2:. On rock music files, 12:-1: was the average setting.

 The staging was as impressive as with the HD-800, however, I am not sure that the D1 has the right synergy with this particular amp-speaker set-up. I believe that I am hearing an element of strain associated with the presentation. (After the tube swap, I'll try this again.)


----------



## Seriously_Tho

Has anyone explored the possibility of impedance-matching the Maverick (used as pre-amp) to an amplifier?

 I could realistically get rid of my preamp altogether, but I'm hearing stories from someone with similar gear claiming that using the Maverick as the pre made the music sound flat & uninspiring, lifeless. That description could mean poor impedance matching between the pre & the amp.

 Anyone want to take a shot at this?


----------



## Mambosenior

I didn't hear any unpleasantness listening to the D1 as a preamp. The Threshold and KEF speakers are very fine pieces (old fashioned, maybe), and have interacted well with other preamps (previously, with a modified ARC SP-8). My only concern about the D1 is that it doesn't have sufficient gain (impedance matching here?). The music, however, sounded just as spacious and pleasing as through the HD-800. I am wondering whether my perceived "strain" that I mentioned may be due to "knowing" that the gain is set that high.


----------



## djnagle

Hi Spanky, I am a bit confused with the layout of which op amp goes where. This is from your first post.

 Opamp Swapping: (DAC [U5] - Headphone Amp [U6] - Result)
 LT1364CN8#PBF --- LM4562NA/NOPB - Less shrill, more detailed bass, very low DC offset. Warning: The LT1364 is a high-speed opamp and may get warm or have potential to overheat. There are no reported problems but for those handy at DIY, a custom heatsink may be desired.
 OPA627 ----------- N/A ------------- Clean and laidback. Great for grainy/bad recordings.
 N/A --------------- AD823 ---------- Forward and in your face. Good for laidback or warm headphones. DC offset warning: 120/180mV
 N/A --------------- LME49720 ------- Neutral and natural. DC offset warning: 120/180mV

 Are the two colums supose to be under the DAC and Headphone headings on top? If so, I think the shift in visual alignment and all the dashes are throwing me off....can't help it, I'm an very visual person. If so again, would this work better?

*Combination of DAC and Headphone OpAmps*

*LT1364CN8#PBF *(DAC) and *LM4562NA/NOPB *(headphone) - Less shrill, more detailed bass, very low DC offset. Warning: The LT1364 is a high-speed opamp and may get warm or have potential to overheat. There are no reported problems but for those handy at DIY, a custom heatsink may be desired.

*DAC OpAmp only, position [U5]*

*OPA627* - Clean and laidback. Great for grainy/bad recordings.

*Headphone OpAmp only, Position (U6)*

*AD823* - Forward and in your face. Good for laidback or warm headphones. DC offset warning: 120/180mV

*LME49720* - Neutral and natural. DC offset warning: 120/180mV

 Anyway, great job on compiling all this data in one spot. Cheers.


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea, I'll clean it up. I think the first config throws it off due to the text at the end creating another line. I've been needing to make an edit anyway. Give me a few minutes


----------



## _Spanky_

Done, is it better? I made sure it all aligned and looked like a table all the way down to 1024x768 resolution.


----------



## millerlitescott

Quick question.

 I just got some op amps to roll. Do I need to ground my self? I do not have one of the fancy bracelets. Can I just connect a alligator clip to my watch and a ground point on the D1?

 Thanks Scott


----------



## _Spanky_

Personally, I have never fried anything with static discharge and I work on many computers but I guess it depends a lot on the humidity and environment you work in. I'd say plug the Mav in, make sure the power is off, clip onto the white wire that connects to the chassis, and hang onto that wire. That, or hang onto a bare metal spot on your computer or some other grounded spot.


----------



## millerlitescott

Thanks Spanky

 All transplants were a success. New Op amps and Windmill Getter Raytheon.

 Scott


----------



## djnagle

Yep, it looks great Spanky.


----------



## ahaneo

I bought this amp recently and have some questions hope someone can answer.

 How do I use the pre-amp tube output to listen through my headphone?
 In the FAQ it's said that its HOT and I cannot plug my headphone directly in it.


 My setup is as follows 
 Foobar-> USB-> D1->DT880

 Now i have a usb wireless mouse connected to my laptop, whenever i click something with my mouse the D1 makes a loud click noise.

 Is this normal?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ahaneo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I bought this amp recently and have some questions hope someone can answer.

 How do I use the pre-amp tube output to listen through my headphone?
 In the FAQ it's said that its HOT and I cannot plug my headphone directly in it._

 

Get another headphone amp and connect it to the pre-amp tube output.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *ahaneo* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_My setup is as follows 
 Foobar-> *USB*-> D1->DT880

 Now i have a *usb* wireless mouse connected to my laptop, whenever i click something with my mouse the D1 makes a loud click noise.

 Is this normal?_

 

You answered your own question. It's a common issue, I get it on my desktop with a corded mouse. You can try different USB ports but that may not change it. SPDIF is preferred.


----------



## ahaneo

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Get another headphone amp and connect it to the pre-amp tube output.


 You answered your own question. It's a common issue, I get it on my desktop with a corded mouse. You can try different USB ports but that may not change it. SPDIF is preferred._

 

Thanks for the quick reply


----------



## _Spanky_

No problem. If you don't mind the recommendation, you can do what igotyofire did:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/head-...otyofire_1.jpg

 He used the tube pre-amp out into a Bravo Audio Tube Amp, you know, one of those little cheapie clear things on eBay.


----------



## Seriously_Tho

Just received the Maverick, I'm taking a chance that it'll improve the sound from the Squeezebox. Or maybe chancing that I'll hear it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


 A few questions -

 1. How long should the burn-in be? What exactly needs to burn-in, the tube or all the electronics in general? 

 2. For the burn-in, does it need a signal running thru it or just power?

 3. Is there any sonic difference between optical & coax digital inputs?

 4. Does switching the opamp power supply make a significant difference or are we splitting hairs & having fun taking things apart?

 One other thing - I don't know much about digital outputs in general. Are digital outs variable like their analog counterparts? Meaning, for instance, can I still use the built-in volume control on the squeezebox while using the digital output?

 Thanks!


----------



## _Spanky_

I know a couple people, including Ryan (owner of Maverick Audio) that use the D1 with the Squeezebox and enjoy it.

 Burn-in... I don't know. I think I noticed it, but I don't know if it's there or not. If I were you, I would leave the unit on while you're home. Having my unit as long as I have, I trust the power supply in my unit but they don't have a UL listing so just watch it for a bit. I would run digital sound into it if you want to burn it in.

 I don't think there's any sonic differences between coaxial and optical. They're both digital. Some components have issues with cutting the signal when pausing or stopping so you may get a pop or something when using one and not the other. Other than that, optical doesn't have grounding issues.

 Power supply for the opamps, I assume you mean the power supply for the whole unit? I'm sure there's room to improve but it's not a drop in and go kinda thing, the wires are soldered to the PCB and you would have to know what voltage goes where. I wouldn't know what power supply would be an improvement. I'm sure you could post in the DIY section with the specs from this power supply and get a few answers.


----------



## Seriously_Tho

Thanks Spanky, and BTW thanks for putting together this bible of a thread.

 With the opamps I was referring to this - 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_[size=medium]*Opamp Swapping*:[/size]
*DAC* [U5] -------- *Amp* [U6] -------- *Result*
 LT1364CN8#PBF -- LM4562NA/NOPB -- Less shrill, more detailed bass, very low DC offset.
 OPA627 ---------- N/A -------------- Clean and laidback. Great for grainy/bad recordings.
 N/A -------------- AD823 ----------- Forward, in your face. Good for warm 'phones. DC Offset: 120/180mV
 N/A -------------- LME49720 -------- Neutral and natural. DC Offset: 120/180mV

 N/A usually means that the stock (LF343N) opamp was left in place.

 Bad opamps: (High DC Offset or oscillation)
AD797, AD843, LME49860, LME49720_

 


 I recognize that swapping tubes will have a fairly significant impact on the sound, just wondering if swapping opamps has the same level of effect or if we're splitting hairs at this point. 

 I'm using the unit as a preamp, not for headphones, so the only possibility that's realistic would be trying the LT1364CN8#PBF.

 A lot of folks made a stink about changing the PS for the Squeezebox to a larger, linear outboard piece vs the OEM wall wart but I found absolutely no difference that way, so at best that was splitting hairs, or certainly no low-hanging fruit anyway. So I'm wondering if swapping opamps in the D1 is something like that in terms of results. Make sense?


----------



## Bullettactics

What kind of power cord can i buy to use with the maverick?the standard cable you get is far too short.


----------



## Seriously_Tho

How about an extension cord?

 It takes a common computer-type cord, three prong.


----------



## _Spanky_

As Seriously_Tho pointed out, it's an overly common standard IEC-style cable. If you live in the US, your local Goodwill (or other donation center) should have a dozen or so of them laying about for super cheap. I have tons of them and I would offer to ship one to you but it's not even worth that.


----------



## Egodzilla

Just received my D1 and I have a couple of questions, which might have been answered in the monstrous thread which is virtually impossible to read trough.

 This is why I will try them here if any of you knowledgeable folks can help me:

 1. What is the better method to connect it to a Mac? USB or Optical (I see that USB wont be bit perfect if music is 44.1)
 2. Is there a Mac USB driver to fix the USB connection to 44.1 like there is for Win?
 3. How come iTunes volume control still works when it is connected via USB? Does that mean the signal it sends is not raw? Does it affect the sound quality?

 That would be all.

 Thank you very much for your answers!


----------



## Nakattack

1. You will have a raw output with an Optical cable, probably better. I find that if I want to listen at really low volumes(usually at night), I turn the amp to around 8-oclock and then adjust digitally. This is because my MS1000's are easy to drive and the attenuator's stepping isn't the greatest. 
 2.NFI
 3.Signal is slightly processed, but TBH I couldn't hear a diff between USB and Optical.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Egodzilla* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_2. Is there a Mac USB driver to fix the USB connection to 44.1 like there is for Win?_

 

Not currently. You would have to find a C-Media driver for Mac and then modify it. I know nothing about Mac drivers and I don't own one so I never pursued it. Same for Linux.


----------



## zdkaiser

A Quick Question...

 I just received my D1 today and I am playing with it. 

 I had a question about the Tube output portion of the system. First off, I am a total newb and you all will have to pardon my ignorance. Second, my question... Is it okay for me to run an RCA to mini cable from the tube output. I have a little stereo with fairly nice speakers in it, and it has an AUX port on the back. Typically I just connect my ipod to the AUX port to listen through the stereo. But I wanted to try something different and listen to the TUBE.

 Anyways my setup. iPod hooked up to the Analog In via a LOD to RCA cable. Then TUBE OUT through a RCA to mini cable and eventually into AUX port of the stereo and out the speakers.

 It sounds great. I just didn't know because someone mentioned that the TUBE output runs HOT. So I didn't know if it was okay if I run it into a mini and into an AUX port.

 Thanks all.


----------



## _Spanky_

zdkaiser, I would say it's ok, but I'm not an electronics engineer. I would imagine the input is run through some solid state components before it's sent to the speakers. The concern about the tube output being hot is only for connecting speakers/headphones directly to it and the voltage may kill it.


----------



## zdkaiser

Another question.

 How do I get my audio to stop crackling/popping while using the D1 DAC?

 I am using Foobar v1.0.1 with Vista Home 64bit. I am running Foobar with ASIO4ALL v2 and I am getting clicks and pops every so often. I thought the DAC was supposed to provide a clear/silent signal. I don't have any computer sound effects, just occasional crackles/pops. I have also tried DS, KS, WASAPI with the USB DAC with the same results. I have installed the updated driver for the D1 and set up my sound settings to support 24bit/96khz files. Under the Foobar DSPs, I have nothing running. ASIO4ALL is doing all the conversions between my 16bit and 24bit files. Regardless, I get some crackling/popping noise occasionally. 

 What could the problem be?
 Any ideas?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *zdkaiser* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Another question.

 How do I get my audio to stop crackling/popping while using the D1 DAC?

 I am using Foobar v1.0.1 with Vista Home 64bit. I am running Foobar with ASIO4ALL v2 and I am getting clicks and pops every so often. I thought the DAC was supposed to provide a clear/silent signal. I don't have any computer sound effects, just occasional crackles/pops. I have also tried DS, KS, WASAPI with the USB DAC with the same results. I have installed the updated driver for the D1 and set up my sound settings to support 24bit/96khz files. Under the Foobar DSPs, I have nothing running. ASIO4ALL is doing all the conversions between my 16bit and 24bit files. Regardless, I get some crackling/popping noise occasionally. 

 What could the problem be?
 Any ideas?_

 

This is supposed to be the circuitry turning off when there is no signal. Some video players will completely cut the audio signal while seeking. Surfing the web and using a chat program will make it static like that every time a sound is played. I dunno why its like that but it is.


----------



## mtl777

Does anyone know what is the DAC chip in the D1? Does anyone have a schematic for this unit?

 Thanks!


----------



## _Spanky_

Someone talked about it in the original thread but it was never confirmed by Ryan. I didn't put it in this thread because Ryan didn't want it publicized and we don't know for sure which it is.


----------



## acvtre

Anybody knows if Ryan is going to release a new version soon?


----------



## _Spanky_

He's working on 2 other projects, one of which I know is a new amp. I think he has too much on his plate to release a new version, at least with a lot of changes. He might modify a thing or two but nothing major and nothing anytime soon.


----------



## acvtre

But nothing comparable to the quantity of inputs and outputs of the D1, right?


----------



## _Spanky_

Assuming you're talking about the amp I mentioned, it's only an amp. I don't want to share too many specs but it's meant to be used with the D1's preamp output. It's not meant to compete with the D1, but rather complement it.


----------



## mtl777

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Someone talked about it in the original thread but it was never confirmed by Ryan. I didn't put it in this thread because Ryan didn't want it publicized and we don't know for sure which it is._

 


 That's a long ass thread! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Anyway, another question: Can you please tell me what's the function of the 100uF 100V caps C73 and C74? Are they passing any audio? Can you please tell me which electrolytic caps are passing audio in the circuit? I want to try replacing them with Elna Silmics which have a great reputation for audio.

 Thanks!


----------



## acvtre

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Assuming you're talking about the amp I mentioned, it's only an amp. I don't want to share too many specs but it's meant to be used with the D1's preamp output. It's not meant to compete with the D1, but rather complement it._

 

Oh really? that would great, he's practically building a power amplifier that would be perfectly matchable with the the D1. Do you know if it will be released anytime soon?


----------



## _Spanky_

mtl777, e-mail Ryan  The only circuit knowledge I have is already in the original post.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *acvtre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Oh really? that would great, he's practically building a power amplifier that would be perfectly matchable with the the D1. Do you know if it will be released anytime soon?_

 

It's a tube amp for headphones and a tube/SS mix power amp that produces 30x2 watts for speakers. He's told me that the pre-production unit is almost done. I asked him about synergy and he said it's a good match. Even has the same case as the D1.


----------



## acvtre

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_It's a tube amp for headphones and a tube/SS mix power amp that produces 30x2 watts for speakers. He's told me that the pre-production unit is almost done. I asked him about synergy and he said it's a good match. Even has the same case as the D1._

 

Wait, help me understand, maybe I'm too excited...he's going to produce a stuff with the same case as the D1, that has a tube/SS amp (means hybrid?) and a tube headphone amp, in the same case? 
 How many bucks will it cost?


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea, hybrid power amp and full tube headphone amp in the same black case (same size and dimensions) as the D1. I'm told that it will cost less than the D1 but don't quote me on that. The beta version needs to be built and ready, then tested, then if any issues are present they will be fixed and then if everything is ok, I think he will start getting a batch produced. I don't know how long that takes though.


----------



## acvtre

Has anyone replaced the caps and noticed any SQ difference?


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Assuming you're talking about the amp I mentioned, it's only an amp. I don't want to share too many specs but it's meant to be used with the D1's preamp output. It's not meant to compete with the D1, but rather complement it._

 

I want more juicy info


----------



## Crookshank

When using he analog input both outputs will work?


----------



## igotyofire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Crookshank* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_When using he analog input both outputs will work?_

 

yes, both outputs on the back will work at the same time including the front headphone out


----------



## Mysteek

I return and I'm in need of anyone's help:

 I wish to use my D1's tube pre-out and add a speaker amp into there to power my paradigm atoms (and add a 8'' sub in the future). Any suggestions under $400 (used is perfectly acceptable)?


----------



## novice

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Mysteek* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I return and I'm in need of anyone's help:

 I wish to use my D1's tube pre-out and add a speaker amp into there to power my paradigm atoms (and add a 8'' sub in the future). Any suggestions under $400 (used is perfectly acceptable)?_

 

NAD C326BEE, Marantz PM6003, Cambridge Audio 640A, or any good vintages. Don't fall into the dark side (e.g. Sony. Sorry, no offense)!


----------



## millerlitescott

Mysteek

 Ryan is releasing an amp in the same case as the D1 meant to compliment the D1. It should be available the middle of the month.

 Keep an eye out for it.

 Scott


----------



## igotyofire

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *millerlitescott* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Mysteek

 Ryan is releasing an amp in the same case as the D1 meant to compliment the D1. It should be available the middle of the month.

 Keep an eye out for it.

 Scott_

 

news to me, where did u hear about this?


----------



## millerlitescott

An email from Ryan

 Hi Scott,

 Your old unit has a "loose" soldering joint. After we fix the
 soldering joint, everything is fine with your unit.

 The new mini amplifier will come out middle of April.

 I am glad that you enjoy using our D1, please do let me know if you
 have any further question.

 Regards and have a nice day!

 Ryan


----------



## Mavwong

Sure there's difference, but I change quite a lot of caps, I not sure if you just change certain area (like coupling caps only) how would it sound. Also that depends on how you wish it sound, what area you wish to improve.

 Check my mod
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/mav...ml#post6550033

 Mav

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *acvtre* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Has anyone replaced the caps and noticed any SQ difference?_


----------



## uelover

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *millerlitescott* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_An email from Ryan

 Hi Scott,

 Your old unit has a "loose" soldering joint. After we fix the
 soldering joint, everything is fine with your unit.

 The new mini amplifier will come out middle of April.

 I am glad that you enjoy using our D1, please do let me know if you
 have any further question.

 Regards and have a nice day!

 Ryan_

 

This sounds really cool to me! I would like to see how it fares against other tube amplifier =)


----------



## _Spanky_

I don't imagine it will be out until next month. He's still fixing issues with it (such a perfectionist ). It should be a really nice amp.


----------



## uelover

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *_Spanky_* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I don't imagine it will be out until next month. He's still fixing issues with it (such a perfectionist ). It should be a really nice amp._

 

ahh i'm impatient for it's debut! i prefer tube sound for my headphone which is currently unavailable from my mav d1~!


----------



## Crookshank

After I upgrade the driver the mav is making a "tic tac" every time the music goes, it's normal?


----------



## _Spanky_

I'm pretty sure that's either the sample rate changing or the digital signal starting/stopping. It is normal but my concern would be how good it is for the longevity of the unit. It could be ok or it could put a lot of strain.


----------



## Crookshank

How do I fix this?


----------



## _Spanky_

It's nothing to really fix. You could go back to the old driver or use a different input.


----------



## uelover

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Crookshank* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_After I upgrade the driver the mav is making a "tic tac" every time the music goes, it's normal?_

 

hmm yeah it's the changing of the sampling rate.

 initially the usb output limit the sampling rate at the fixed rate of 16/44.1 so there is no issue with it. after the driver upgrade maverick will adapt itself to the sampling rate of whatever media files you're playing so thus came the clicking sound.

 i'm using the optical out from my mac to my maverick and it also clicks every now and then when i switch between audio files =)


----------



## techenvy

i wonder how much difffernt the tube preamp sounds from regular rca.

 very chic


----------



## uelover

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *techenvy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_i wonder how much difffernt the tube preamp sounds from regular rca.

 very chic_

 

I've switched between the tube out and the normal out to compare the sound before finally settling for the tube out.

 under the tube out, the sound is more refined and musical. I find the difference to be big. Of course, you can roll the tube to further customize the sound to your liking.

 overall, I find the attraction of this unit to be its pre-amp tube sound =)


----------



## Crookshank

Anyone know what the output sensitivity?


----------



## _Spanky_

Added a link to the newly created product page & wiki page.


----------



## SamTheJarvis

Just a quick question:
   
  Will I be able to connect some Active Studio Monitors to this DAC via the Analog RCA outs and get volume control from the front panel?


----------



## _Spanky_

SamTheJarvis, yes you can do that. There is a button on the D1 that enables/disables volume control for both tube and SS RCA outputs.


----------



## SamTheJarvis

Sounds like this little reliable DAC should fit in nicely in my little system.
   
  Thanks )
   
  Another quick question.
   
  Is http://www.mavaudio.com the official site at which to buy one of their DACs?
   
  Just noticed Spanky, you've put a huge amount of commitment into supporting this DAC, have you got some kind of affiliation with Maverick?


----------



## chips88

I have read this very long thread. Very happy it gives so much information. Here is something I find when checking chinese information site about Xiang Sheng DAC01 and Tube Magic D1.
   
  Here is a person who is selling modified Xiang Sheng (old Maverick Tube Magic D1) with NE5532 OP-AMP, and 6H3n/5670 tube (you can select which tube when you roder your modification).
   
  FInally, he also offers to make interesting modification changes to the earphone output by wiring it through the tube as a buffer. (at bottom of  page  - option 3A/B)
   
  He has also said via email, he can also remove original earphone protection circuit which makes sound even better in his opinion.
   
  When I ask why he makes these modifications, and how sound quality changes - he says original Xiang Sheng design was too bright and forward on earphone output and his modifications make the earphone sounds more mellow, but not lose base or midrange definition. The DAC part he says has better solid bass after tube change and some component change.
   
  Here is site in chinese:
   
http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?21003156905473#auc


----------



## _Spanky_

Re-worked entire post with spoilers for easier info access. Fixed links for the new site. Added info about Linux 24-Bit 96kHz capabilities.


----------



## _Spanky_

Added TheBigCW's 17 pictures finally.


----------



## millerlitescott

My Maverick D1 was featured in the Polk Audio Room at the Capital Audio Fest.  It was hooked up on Friday evening and not disconnected until the end of the show. It replace an Ayre integrated amplifier and was connected to a CTC BBQ amplifier.  The Pictures on the Capital Audio Fest do not show it but there are pictures on the Polk Audio Forum.
   
  I would link it but I am not computer literate enough to pull it off. 
   
  Scott


----------



## Ultrainferno

Here's the link: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95110&highlight=maverick&page=5


----------



## millerlitescott

Thanks Ultrainferno.
   
  Also see posts 109 and 111 for more pictures and a short impression of the Maverick D1 with the rig.
   
  Thanks,
   
  Scott


----------



## _Spanky_

Scott, thanks for bringing attention to the thread. I updated the post with the pictures and comments that dorosukai made.


----------



## flexium

This condensed FAQ is really great. Thank you so much, _Spanky_.  I can skip reading that 100+ page thread to find the info that I need.
   
  Cheers!!


----------



## dofindale

I recently got my D1 and it is pretty nice.  I do have one question though. I have the Denon 2000 and the impedance is 25 ohm.  The unit got little warm, not hot.  Im wondering if these were made to drive these Denons, or will it fry the amp?


----------



## Ultrainferno

Its most likely the tube that gets hot, it's normal and non headphone related. Driving 25ohms shouldn't be a problem, it's pretty low so probably you can't turn the volume up much, but I wouldn't worry. Enjoy the DAC, I really like it


----------



## _Spanky_

Dang it Ultrainferno  You beat me. I'll just say that I concur.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Sorry boss, I'll never do it again 
   
  Concerning the D1s succeeder, the tube amp: I read on Ryans blog he was going to start taking preorders at the end of this month but I haven't seen anything happening yet. Who's thinking of ordering the tube amp? (hmm, maybe this should go in the normal D1 thread)


----------



## _Spanky_

I don't think the tube amp is a succeeder, more of a friend  Anyway, I think the only issue with Ryan and his company is he gets too excited to release a new product and estimates that he'll have it out much sooner than expected  Not a bad thing though, but we have been waiting patiently for many weeks. I do know that R&D is completely done and that the first production batch is on it's way. Ryan seems really busy lately which I think is a good thing, that means things are happening. I can't imagine it will be much longer. I would be really surprised if pre-orders don't happen in the next 2 weeks.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Sorry boss, I'll never do it again
> 
> Concerning the D1s succeeder, the tube amp: I read on Ryans blog he was going to start taking preorders at the end of this month but I haven't seen anything happening yet. Who's thinking of ordering the tube amp? (hmm, maybe this should go in the normal D1 thread)


 
   I'll probably order one.


----------



## _Spanky_

v1.8 - Minor changes to clarify model due to addition of TubeMagic A1 Hybrid Amp. Added reiserFS's pictures.


----------



## reiserFS

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> v1.8 - Minor changes to clarify model due to addition of TubeMagic A1 Hybrid Amp. Added reiserFS's pictures.


 

 Much appreciating that addition, might just leave picture no. 4 in there because that's the second and most likely final version though.


----------



## agaro

Hello, I'd like to ask if maverick would be a good choice for sr60? Maybe someone has some experience with combo like this. Maverick would be no-brainer for me, but I'm afraid if it can give enough low freq (bass) and liveliness for grado. I'm considering also hifiman ef2, which one sounds better?


----------



## _Spanky_

v1.9 - Added tube rolling image and mini how-to. Added backside PCB images. Added speculation about DAC being CS4334.


----------



## _Spanky_

v2.0 - Removed USB information. Added info about HDAM units. Changed some wording.


----------



## _Spanky_

v2.1 - Added reiserFS's Skyline Rev.2 mod available for sale. Added audio path diagram.


----------



## ninjikiran

according to that diagram only one opamp gets used when using the built in headphone amp.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> according to that diagram only one opamp gets used when using the built in headphone amp.


 

 Technically, yea. The DAC uses one but it's just not mentioned. Just like all the caps and resistors  There's no choice to turn on/off the DAC opamp, it's required.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Spanky, any news of Ryan and all the different caps in my D1 version?


----------



## _Spanky_

I haven't asked him yet. He's been slow with replies lately since he's been working hard on the new amp.


----------



## ninjikiran

yea you can actually run the mav with only an opamp in the headphone position.


----------



## ninjikiran

```
Hi , The OpAmp used in D1 is dual OpAmp. That means there is only one OpAmp get used when using headphone output. The other one is used when analog output is used. Let me know if you have any other question. Cheers, Ryan Customer Support Maverick Audio
```


----------



## joms

Given:
  Source - Computer via Toslink or USB
  Speakers - Powered Audioengine 2 (or maybe 5)
  Subs - Velodyne Impact 10
   
  Questions:
   
  a) How does this compare to the Asus Xonar Essence ST plus H6 daughter card in terms of musical quality given my speakers/subs stated above?
   
  b) Can you use both the Normal Audio Out and the Tube Audio Out simultaneously? I plan to hook my main speakers to the Tube Audio Out and my Subs to the Normal Audio Out. Is this viable?
   
  Thanks.


----------



## barbz

Hi all,
   
  Would I be able to plug my creative 2.1 speakers into the output of a D1 to get me through until I can get a set of dedicated speakers and amp?
   
  Would this cause any problems? and which set of RCA's would be best to connect it to?
   
  Cheers
  Paul


----------



## _Spanky_

joms, you should be able to use both normal and tube outputs at the same time.
   
  barbz, as long as your Creative 2.1 speakers have RCA plugs, that would work. It's actually what I'm doing right now. You can use either set of RCA's. I would recommend removing the tube and using normal outputs since you probably won't be able to appreciate the tube flavor and it would save power and remove heat.
   
  If you guys don't mind, could you keep the discussion in the discussion thread


----------



## ninjikiran

As long as they are active or in your case they are more than likely powered speakers.  Meaning they don't need or use amplification since they already have it.
   
  Some of those speakers were made to connect to computers so they use a standard 3.5mm plug, an adapter to convert to RCA(radioshack ftw?) would help you out there.
   
  As for using a separate amp and speakers, of course it will work.  Most dedicated amps have RCA as an input from the mav.


----------



## _Spanky_

Attention everyone, this is a very important message for anyone trying to get to the Maverick Audio website. I just got an e-mail from Ryan saying the following:
   
   
  Quote: 





> About 6 hours ago, I found I forgot to renew my domain name of mavaudio.com, and the domain name has been taken over by third party.
> I have been working since then, and put up a backup web site: www.mav-audio.com, everything is working properly through this backup site.


 
   
  This means that any e-mail chat you have going with Ryan will have to continue with a new e-mail on the site http://www.mav-audio.com/base/support Ryan will try to get the old domain back but, for now, use the new one.


----------



## yhong26

newbie question,may want to ask,what is the button volume control bypass?what is the function?


----------



## ninjikiran

The direct button to the right of the "on" button.
  
  Quote: 





yhong26 said:


> newbie question,may want to ask,what is the button volume control bypass?what is the function?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> The direct button to the right of the "on" button.


 

 It bypasses the volume pot control for RCA outputs (either tube or solid state).


----------



## djnagle

Hi All, I've had my D1 for a long time now and really like it alot.  I don't think I will ever use another pre-amp.  I use it as a preamp in my main system with the tube outs.
   
  The one thing that is driving me crazy is the first volume click is loud, the second is way loud, and the third is TOO LOUD.  I have extremly effiecent speakers.  So what can I do?  I saw on the first page of this thread that I could not lower the gain in the tube out, but there has to be something I can do about it.  Cheers.


----------



## ninjikiran

You can try another preamp between the mavericks Tube flavored Dac output and your speakers/amp, or use the direct button and an Amp with volume control.
  Quote: 





djnagle said:


> Hi All, I've had my D1 for a long time now and really like it alot.  I don't think I will ever use another pre-amp.  I use it as a preamp in my main system with the tube outs.
> 
> The one thing that is driving me crazy is the first volume click is loud, the second is way loud, and the third is TOO LOUD.  I have extremly effiecent speakers.  So what can I do?  I saw on the first page of this thread that I could not lower the gain in the tube out, but there has to be something I can do about it.  Cheers.


----------



## djnagle

I just don't have the money for that.  If the pre set clicks weren't there, it would not be a problem.  I'll have to look at putting in an Alps pot.


----------



## _Spanky_

I've noticed "100k" on the pots inside the Maverick units. Maybe Alps has a higher resistance pot that would allow you to have more range as well as better control?


----------



## ninjikiran

Yea replacing the pot is an option, if you know what you are doing.


----------



## _Spanky_

v2.2 - Reverted post to saved file due to Head-Fi updates adding various bugs. Added a thanking section.


----------



## Eric_C

Is it possible to use the D1 as a phono stage for a turntable? I tried hooking up an old TT like this:
  TT --(analog in)--> Maverick D1 --(tube pre out)--> CMoy --> Headphones
  And I could barely hear anything. The "Direct" button was on, and my turntable has no phono stage built-in. Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





eric_c said:


> Is it possible to use the D1 as a phono stage for a turntable? I tried hooking up an old TT like this:
> TT --(analog in)--> Maverick D1 --(tube pre out)--> CMoy --> Headphones
> And I could barely hear anything. The "Direct" button was on, and my turntable has no phono stage built-in. Am I doing something wrong?


 

 I don't think there's anything else you can do besides get a phono stage. With the direct button on, you're getting max volume. You may try going TT > CMOY > Analog in on D1 > Headphone output. That may provide something better since the gain on the D1 (especially if you have an early model) is significant but I doubt it will do much for you. Phono stage would be best.


----------



## Ultrainferno

I think you need a phono stage. Amps are not the same as phono stages 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  I googled it quickly and there's lots of sites explaining why you need a phono stage
   
_Edit: spanky beat me to it.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## Eric_C

Ah, okay. Thanks guys, I'm still a complete noob when it comes to vinyl.


----------



## TheMiddleSky

Hey all, I just want to know what the significant different between the standard DAC and through the tube pre-amp
   
  I've already tested the standar DAC, and even though it sounds great (clarity and staging), but for me it's a bit too shrill. I just wondering if using the tube pre amp can make it smoother while still offering same level clarity and staging.
   
  will be paired with K701 and using Linearossa K3 amp.
   
  Thx.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Just try the tube out and see if you like it, it's only a replug.
  Another option is switching the opamps as explained on page 1


----------



## ninjikiran

Yea go ahead and try it, personally I don't think I hear a difference at all and this is using the switch on my amp with both SS/Tube Preout connected.  There are some opamps out there that mimic the same kind of properties(distortion and oscillation) of a tube.  Problem is one of these is an HDAM from audio-gd which distorts on the maverick.
   
  If you hear a huge difference you can  then start messing with the tubes.


----------



## TheMiddleSky

the problem is now I've already living my previous city (I get job at other city), so I can't do some tests again with D1
   
 [size=medium] 
   
Quote:​[/size]



ninjikiran said:


> Yea go ahead and try it, personally I don't think I hear a difference at all and this is using the switch on my amp with both SS/Tube Preout connected.  There are some opamps out there that mimic the same kind of properties(distortion and oscillation) of a tube.  Problem is one of these is an HDAM from audio-gd which distorts on the maverick.
> 
> If you hear a huge difference you can  then start messing with the tubes.


 

 it's interesting that you can't hear the difference, I wonder what that tube use for now


----------



## ninjikiran

There might be a difference but I think it just adds a little distortion.  Which might add enough distortion to certain frequencies for it to bring other sounds forward.  I personally don't really notice it though.  Some do~ so just try it out for yourself and don't take my word for it when you can next.


----------



## Morakot

Help ...
  The Volume control bypass...I accidently (twice) push it in and it was very loud this happened late at night and I woke up the house. I'm going from Mac to D1 to amp to speakers. My Mac setting it's on mute so the bypass should be mute? instead it's on full blast. I was going to put the  red tape on the bypass button that just seem strange. It this the way The D1 is design?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





morakot said:


> Help ...
> The Volume control bypass...I accidently (twice) push it in and it was very loud this happened late at night and I woke up the house. I'm going from Mac to D1 to amp to speakers. My Mac setting it's on mute so the bypass should be mute? instead it's on full blast. I was going to put the  red tape on the bypass button that just seem strange. It this the way The D1 is design?


 
   
  The bypass button bypasses the volume control so the signal being sent out the RCA outputs is unattenuated.


----------



## lepel

Spanky , this great job, make this info all about Mav DAC ( really hard for collect all info )

 really help all of us to fine info before buy it

 and this is my 1st DAC  ( for me like First love never die 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  )

 is open my ear , how enjoy sound quality

 and below is about Mav DAC in Indonesia forum


 http://forum.chip.co.id/sound-audio/161471-maveric-audio-tubemagic-d1-dac.html

 http://www.audiophile-id.com/index.php?topic=4235.0

 thanks



 Regards


----------



## b0klau

Will the d1 pair well with dt880 250ohm?


----------



## uelover

yes it will =)


----------



## pinoyman

hi...
  please help.
   
  id like to know if this will help me achieve good sound quality from my ipod and active speakers audioengine a5 and subwoofer a8...
   
  because, something is missing in my set-up:
ipod+apple dock+audioengine a5+audioengine subwoofer s8.
   
   
   
*what does DAC do with my ipod?*
*does it make it sound more good?*
   
  sorry for my english.


----------



## uelover

Hi Pinoyman,
   
  1) iPod has its own internal dac and there is no one you can bypass that dac to tap onto Mav D1's DAC.
  2) Adding D1 in between your ipod and ae5 will alter the sound signature of your current setup. If you're using decent RCA cables, I dare say that D1 will make your speakers sound fuller and add dynamics to the sound. In addition, you can 'customise' the type of sound you like by changing tubes and opamps.
   
  hope that helps. =)
   
  Quote: 





pinoyman said:


> hi...
> please help.
> 
> id like to know if this will help me achieve good sound quality from my ipod and active speakers audioengine a5 and subwoofer a8...
> ...


----------



## s0126471

Hey peeps,
   
  I was looking through eBay, and I found this:
   
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HLLY-DAC-01-24BIT-96KHz-Tube-Headphone-Amp-DAC-Preamp-/260553292624?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item3caa2fbb50#ht_4910wt_905
   
  It does not have a stereo line in but has two RCA phono inputs compared to the D1.
   
  Has anyone heard of these?  The circuitry looks very similar to the D1 by the looks of it.
   
  That said, I dont think I'll be replacing my much loved D1 anytime soon - I just found that link out of the blue.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Your question is answered in the FAQ on page 1:
   
  The original TubeMagic was a Xiansheng DAC-01 clone but has since evolved into a more thoroughly researched and tested unit with several modifications and upgrades, not to mention a better looking case.


----------



## s0126471

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Your question is answered in the FAQ on page 1:
> 
> The original TubeMagic was a Xiansheng DAC-01 clone but has since evolved into a more thoroughly researched and tested unit with several modifications and upgrades, not to mention a better looking case.


 
   
   
  Thanks ... I forgot about the FAQ page.
   
  And the TubeMagic is a lot better looking - it makes better aesthetic sense.


----------



## ninjikiran

Imo you should be looking at the Tube Magic A1 which is an amplifier without a dac portion.  Its exactly what you want with your ipod, and when you get a good dac and digital audio system you can still use it.  While the D1 should bypass the dac section totally imo the best you can do is hurt the signal rather than make it better. 
  
  http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tube_magic_a1
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/500259/maverick-audio-tubemagic-a1-hybrid-amp-condensed-faq-and-info-thread
  Quote: 





pinoyman said:


> hi...
> please help.
> 
> id like to know if this will help me achieve good sound quality from my ipod and active speakers audioengine a5 and subwoofer a8...
> ...


----------



## uelover

A1 works great for headphone and passive speaker.
   
  However, AE5 already has an internal amplifier. Adding an A1 there will only act as a tube preamp. Unless he has got a really high quality apple dock and rca cable, for his connection setup:
   
  ipod-->apple dock-->Mav A1-->RCA out-->AE5
   
  There will be too many signal loss in the pathway.
   
  Using a Mav D1 in this case will suffer from the same problem.
   
  A1 will sound more tubey while D1 sound more natural with active speaker. That's my take on it =)
   
   
  Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Imo you should be looking at the Tube Magic A1 which is an amplifier without a dac portion.  Its exactly what you want with your ipod, and when you get a good dac and digital audio system you can still use it.  While the D1 should bypass the dac section totally imo the best you can do is hurt the signal rather than make it better.
> 
> http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tube_magic_a1
> http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/500259/maverick-audio-tubemagic-a1-hybrid-amp-condensed-faq-and-info-thread


----------



## pinoyman

i am now planning on buying a onkyo nd-s1...and the mav-audio d1 as dac.
  then to my ae5.
   
  can this be the best set up for my ipod classic and active powered audioengine a5?


----------



## ninjikiran

Your not going to use the dac at all, as stated if you want the tube like flavor just get the A1 otherwise skip the dac altogether and just directly connect the ipod to your speakers, 
   
  There really isn't much you  can do between an ipod and active or powered speakers since they don't need an amp and the ipod is a dac.  Adding a reciever and dac in the middle is going to make things worst imo.


----------



## pinoyman

the ipod doesnt sound that good thru the headphone out.
  i am buying the onkyo as the transport.
  then to the dac- mav audio d1....
  then to the powered speakers (active)


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





pinoyman said:


> the ipod doesnt sound that good thru the headphone out.
> i am buying the onkyo as the transport.
> then to the dac- mav audio d1....
> then to the powered speakers (active)


 


  The ipod can't output digital either thus your kind of stuck with its sound...
   
  You would be better suited setting up a computer rather than your ipod. That is if you don't want it to sound like an ipod. 
   
  If you want a transport rather than use onboard or USB I would suggest it like this.
   
  USB port ---> TeralinkX2(or HiFace, or Audio-GD Digital interface)---> Maverick Audio Tube MAgic D1 ---> Your Speakers
   
  Or you can skip the transport and use the mavericks USB, might not notice a difference if your not discerning.  Which would mean all you need a tube magic d1 to connect with your PC.


----------



## pinoyman

i thought the onkyo nd-s1, is an ipod transport, that will help to bypass the internal dac of the ipod????
   
  i was advise to use the transport to make the ipod sound better and pair it with a good dac.
  i chose this mav. audio d1 as the dac.
   
  then told by the maverick audio people to connect my active speakers in the (NORMAL) analag out and the subwoofer to the (TUBE PRE OUT)
   
  my speakers are all active.
  even the subwoofer.
  and to my point of view, it is not nice to double amping, am i right on this?
   
  sorry...im very confuse now.
  help me more please.


----------



## pinoyman

see here in scenario V.
  http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tube_magic_d1/how-it-works
   
  using the ipod thru the line in cord, then analog out for the active speakers.
   
   
   
  however, i will be using the transport for the connection also.
  digital in, see here:
  http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tube_magic_d1/hardware
  either the optical,coaxial or usb.
   
   
   
  here: it is indicated to use the DAC for powered speakers
  http://www.mav-audio.com/download/Tube_Magic_D1_QSG.pdf
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
  ipod + onkyo nd-s1 (ipod transport) + maverick audio d1 (external dac) + audioengine a5 and s8 subwoofer (active speakers)
   
  or
   
  ipod docked  in onkyo transport + optical out/coaxial out + to MAVERICK AUDIO DAC digital optical IN/ digital coaxial IN + ANALOG OUT + INTO the audioengine speakers.


----------



## dinkoy

The A5 has an internal amp. So you are advising to do double amping here?
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> Hi Pinoyman,
> 
> 1) iPod has its own internal dac and there is no one you can bypass that dac to tap onto Mav D1's DAC.
> 2) Adding D1 in between your ipod and ae5 will alter the sound signature of your current setup. If you're using decent RCA cables, I dare say that D1 will make your speakers sound fuller and add dynamics to the sound. In addition, you can 'customise' the type of sound you like by changing tubes and opamps.
> ...


----------



## Ultrainferno

For all the new guys:
   
  Only the "digital in" are using the DAC: Optical, coaxial and USB.
  The analogue in and the ipod line in do not use the DAC section of the D1 and it just amplifies the signal
   
  Pinoyman's last option seems do-able


----------



## pinoyman

thanks for clearing it out for me...


----------



## uelover

i know A5 has an internal amp. That's why I am advising him that the most he could do is to pair it with a preamp.
   
  No point getting another amp and he can't use the dac either.
  
  Quote: 





dinkoy said:


> The A5 has an internal amp. So you are advising to do double amping here?


----------



## dinkoy

I believe that a DAC is more useful for that setup than a preamp.


----------



## uelover

Yeah if he's going:
   
  1) Ipod --> LOD --> AE5, then a preamp is good
  2) Ipod --> Onkyo Transport --> AE5, then a dac is good
  
  Quote: 





dinkoy said:


> I believe that a DAC is more useful for that setup than a preamp.


----------



## Riverback

Quick question, If you plug in the D1 to the PS3 via TOSLINK,
  Does it still use the DAC or does it still use the PS3 DAC and just goes through the D1's amp stage?


----------



## Ultrainferno

I'm gonna have to quote myself to answer this (again) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I see it more as plugging in the PS3 in the D1, not around 
   
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> For all the new guys:
> 
> Only the "digital in" are using the DAC: Optical, coaxial and USB.
> The analogue in and the ipod line in do not use the DAC section of the D1 and it just amplifies the signal


----------



## ninjikiran

A DAC signifies Digital to Analog conversion.  Turning 1's and 0's into an electrical signal that headphones(dynamic) can translate into vibrations which our ears translate into sound.
   
  Meaning any digital output is digital, and going into a DAC will be converted to analog.  On the PS3 that means rather than using the internal DAC it's going out straight digital, otherwise it would go digital--->Analog--->digital which wouldn't make too much sense.
  
  Quote: 





riverback said:


> Quick question, If you plug in the D1 to the PS3 via TOSLINK,
> Does it still use the DAC or does it still use the PS3 DAC and just goes through the D1's amp stage?


----------



## Wahab

Hi all,
  I used Mav A1 for about a month now and the A1 had been "Break in" for more than 100 hours already. I hooked up Mav A1 to CD player out, from Mav A1 to 60 Watt 8000s act as a preamp. From 8000s to 70 Wattt Arcam 900D power amp and drive speakers. I noticed MAV A1 sound good with headphone(Beyerdnamic DT880) directly from MAV A1 headphone output jack but from Audiolab 8000s itsound a bit dull and with Arcam Powe amp headphone output jack it sound slightly beter.
  While listening speakers with Mav A1 in the line, I did not get significant improvement. Did my set up to much with audiolab 8000s in between which is solid state amplifier and caused signal lost ? Can I connect Mav A1 after Audiolab 8000s before feed to Arcam Powe amp? Which set up can prevail the best of Mav A1....? thanks.


----------



## uelover

HI Wahab,
   
  for every single thing you add in between your source (cd player) and your speaker, you will have signal loss through the cables as well as through equipments.
   
  not sure why you would want to have 2 preamps in between your power amp and your cd player unless you want the tube sound in your speaker line up.
   
  removing either your audiolab 8000s or a1 will improve the SQ.
   
  if you want to have both preamp in your system, i would suggest putting cd player --> audiolab --> a1 --> power amp --> speaker
   
  however, i am not sure how much watt A1 can take as input so you would better check with Ryan =)


----------



## Wahab

Thank U uelover,
  Well, Mav A1 is the latest stuff in that I bought. Not wanting to waste what I already have, I just add it into my system.
  Yes, i have a thaught as your mention...let me check with Ryan of Maverick if it can be done!


----------



## pinoyman

hi.
 my name is mark.
 and i just purchased a maverick audio d1.

 and i am using it, it just arrived today.
 i am happy with it.

 ...so far.

 but there seems to be a little problem with the unit...
 something that i cannot understand.

 i plug the macbook pro with the d1 using the usb-optical cable.
 no problem there.
 my active speakers are audioengine brand. active/powered speakers.
 no problem there also.
 using all output/input seems to be fine.
 no problem there.
 all the cables are fine.
 so no problem there also.
 now, i am using a 3.5mm jack-rca cable to the audio out of mav audio.
 3.mm jack into the audioengine and rca out from the mav audio d1.
  


 here...
 is where the problem occurs.
 there are two OUT for the d1.
 one is for the TUBE PRE OUT.
 and one is for the SS (solid state) normal out.

 now, listen.
 whenever i use the normal out everything seems fine on my speakers.
 they are NORMAL.
 no problem there.
 they sounded good. fine.

 BUT, WHENEVER I USE TUBE PRE-OUT, THE LEFT SPEAKER'S SOUND IS DISTORTED AND THE SOUND ON THE LEFT SEEMS TO BE WRONG.
 NO VOICE, IF THERE IS...IT IS ONLY 20% OF THE VOICE. IT SHOULD BE 100% FOR IT TO BE BALANCE TOGETHER ALONG WITH THE RIGHT.
 THE LEFT SPEAKER USING TUBE PRE OUT...
 THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG HERE.
 THAT I DIDNT UNDERSTAND.
 THERE IS NO RULE IN THE AUDIO OR EVEN ON REVIEWS THAT I READ THAT THERE WOULD BE A DISTORTION THAT WOULD OCCUR.
 THE SOUND ON THE LEFT USING TUBE PRE-OUT, THE SOUND IS "LOWER" THAN THE RIGHT PART in terms of VOLUME LOUDNESS. NOT BALANCE in VOLUME.
 and there is an audible DISTORTION only on the LEFT PART.


 whenever i return the connection back to the SS/NORMAL out, everything returns back to good sounding. all is normal. all is fine. no distortion or whatsoever. or anything.
 please....help.

 ...i am wondering if there is wrong with the unit using the tube pre out for powered speakers.




 ...thanks.
 hoping to hear from you soon.
  hoping to get some help to some fellow brothers here.
   
  would be happy to listen.


----------



## uelover

sounds like the tube inside your unit could be faulty. simple as that.
   
  the difference between the tube out and the normal out is that for the tube out, there is an extra vacuum tube in the pathway and the audio signal passes through that before coming out of D1.
   
  you may want to change the tube. i believe the problem will be solved.


----------



## pinoyman

^thanks uelover, gonna try that.
  will wait for the new tube to be sent to me by the generous ryan.


----------



## reiserFS

Sounds like a typical bad pre-amp tube, a new one should fix that.


----------



## Mysteek

He is very kind indeed, he sent me replacement tubes as well even knowing that I didn't purchase my D1 off of him directly.  (I bought from another head-fier), he still sent me a free replacement.  Phenomenal customer service =]
  
  Quote: 





pinoyman said:


> ^thanks uelover, gonna try that.
> will wait for the new tube to be sent to me by the generous ryan.


----------



## tangelo

This is kind of off-topic, but I'm wondering what kinds of opamps would give a heavier bass response. As of now, I've looked at the LM4562 for the amp opamp and the LT1364 for the DAC opamp. But from what I've read, this will give a more flat response, opposed to a bass heavy response, which is what I'm going for to accompany my K701. Thanks!


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





tangelo said:


> This is kind of off-topic, but I'm wondering what kinds of opamps would give a heavier bass response. As of now, I've looked at the LM4562 for the amp opamp and the LT1364 for the DAC opamp. But from what I've read, this will give a more flat response, opposed to a bass heavy response, which is what I'm going for to accompany my K701. Thanks!


 


  I hear the OPA627 is good with bass. I've never tried one though.


----------



## ninjikiran

I'll be honest with you before going for opamp I would sell back the K701's and try other headphones in the price bracket because opamps aren't goign to make a huge warmth difference...


----------



## Trapper32

Quote: 





tangelo said:


> This is kind of off-topic, but I'm wondering what kinds of opamps would give a heavier bass response. As of now, I've looked at the LM4562 for the amp opamp and the LT1364 for the DAC opamp. But from what I've read, this will give a more flat response, opposed to a bass heavy response, which is what I'm going for to accompany my K701. Thanks!


 

 I found the LM4562 grating  and while  the LT1364 is not too bad in the DAC , the OPA2107 in both the amp and DAC would give you alot more bass.  It definitely tames the treble and gives much help in the bass region.


----------



## millerlitescott

I am running the LM4562 in my DAC section and am interested in the OPAXXX opamps.  Where can you buy them and which ones would you recommend.  It looks like 2 are listed above.
   
  Thanks,
   
  Scott


----------



## tangelo

Quote: 





trapper32 said:


> I found the LM4562 grating  and while  the LT1364 is not too bad in the DAC , the OPA2107 in both the amp and DAC would give you alot more bass.  It definitely tames the treble and gives much help in the bass region.


 


 Exactly how much bass is "alot more bass."? Also, what is the difference between Through Hole and Surface Mount? Thanks


----------



## Trapper32

Quote: 





millerlitescott said:


> I am running the LM4562 in my DAC section and am interested in the OPAXXX opamps.  Where can you buy them and which ones would you recommend.  It looks like 2 are listed above.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Scott


 
  Digikey sells a lot of the  opamps available...  here's their listing for the opa2107 http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-19953-5-ND


----------



## Trapper32

Quote: 





tangelo said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I think the opa2107 will give you the most bass available in an opamp swap.  If the bass isn't enough after that then I think you should follow ninjikiran's advice and get different headphones.  The opamps are the 8dip configuration...just lift up and replace...make sure they go back in the same orientation that they came out...you can put them in backwards and that results in no sound at best and blown components at worst.


----------



## tangelo

So I would need to buy two OPA2107, one for the DAC opamp and one for the headphone opamp? Just wanted to be sure, cause they seem kinda pricey. And also, that either Surface Mount of Through Hole doesn't really matter (so the cheaper one)? Thanks.


----------



## ninjikiran

More like... blown components   Putting in opamps backwards should usually be a death sentence.
   
  Now I don't know if its a death sentence for the DAC or just the opamp, haven't actually researched that nor do I try to make such a mistake.


----------



## Greg121986

I just bought a Maverick D1 used on Ebay for $215 shipped. I am a really upset that I paid so much for it, considering a new one would go for only $20 more. I sniped the auction at $200 thinking it would never go for that price. It had one bid for $125 up until the very last minute. I guess it is kind of my fault for setting such a high snipe price, but I did not think it would reach that point.
   
  This is my first attempt at hi-fi audio and it's my first purchase. Is it a good one? I'm wondering if my $215 would have been better spent somewhere else. I think I might pair it with some AKG 701 or 702s.


----------



## attenuated 3db

Out of curiosity, I just looked at the bidding history of that auction to see what happened.  The bidding _did_ jump from $158 to $200 rather suddenly.  Well, don't feel too bad.  Ryan of Maverick Audio has incredible customer service, and will probably treat you like the original owner in terms of support; other Head-Fi-ers who were not the original owners of their Maverick products tell how he shipped them replacement parts, no questions asked.  And you did get a unit with a GE 5670W tube, which would have cost $219 new, plus $15 DHL international shipping.
   
  I answered another question you had about the Maverick A1 and loudspeakers in another, new thread you started.  What headphones do you have now or are you planning to get?  I am enjoying my Maverick D1-A1 combination immensely with my new Sennheiser 650s, and all of this stuff just arrived in the last nine days.   Shades of time-dilation.  Hard to believe I clicked "yes" on that many PayPal buttons in so short a time and signed to take delivery of so many wonderful little packages.


----------



## uelover

aww i am selling my D1 with all the upgraded parts! should have bought from me! hahah.
  
  Quote: 





greg121986 said:


> I just bought a Maverick D1 used on Ebay for $215 shipped. I am a really upset that I paid so much for it, considering a new one would go for only $20 more. I sniped the auction at $200 thinking it would never go for that price. It had one bid for $125 up until the very last minute. I guess it is kind of my fault for setting such a high snipe price, but I did not think it would reach that point.
> 
> This is my first attempt at hi-fi audio and it's my first purchase. Is it a good one? I'm wondering if my $215 would have been better spent somewhere else. I think I might pair it with some AKG 701 or 702s.


----------



## Trapper32

Quote: 





tangelo said:


> So I would need to buy two OPA2107, one for the DAC opamp and one for the headphone opamp? Just wanted to be sure, cause they seem kinda pricey. And also, that either Surface Mount of Through Hole doesn't really matter (so the cheaper one)? Thanks.


 


  Yes, two but you don't want the thru hole or surface mount..u need the 8dip ones.


----------



## Greg121986

Last I checked my previous post about the A1 with speakers was kind of dead. I will check it again. For headphones, I would like to get some AKG 701 or 702s. Between my two roommates we have some Grado GS1000i, AKG 702, and Sennheiser HD650s. I will try all of them on my amp. I have also tried Beyerdynamics DT 880 Premium and Pro which I really liked after they were well broken in. I have tried some well broken in AKG 701s as well and I have to say those have been my favorite. I might get those or 702s depending on what price I can find.
   
  Because I am weary to spend so much money right now I was also considering Grado SR80i, but I am not sure if I would be happy with them. I like their price, but I really did not like the Grado GS1000i not even considering their $1000 price tag. I much prefer the AKG.
   
  The bidding of the Ebay auction was really strange. I used Gixen to snipe the auction. It was my first time sniping, I have never actually used that tactic before. I set my price initially to $185 for the auction on Gixen but later changed it to $200 thinking an extra $15 wouldn't make a difference. I really thought it would go for much less than that.
  
  Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Out of curiosity, I just looked at the bidding history of that auction to see what happened.  The bidding _did_ jump from $158 to $200 rather suddenly.  Well, don't feel too bad.  Ryan of Maverick Audio has incredible customer service, and will probably treat you like the original owner in terms of support; other Head-Fi-ers who were not the original owners of their Maverick products tell how he shipped them replacement parts, no questions asked.  And you did get a unit with a GE 5670W tube, which would have cost $219 new, plus $15 DHL international shipping.
> 
> I answered another question you had about the Maverick A1 and loudspeakers in another, new thread you started.  What headphones do you have now or are you planning to get?  I am enjoying my Maverick D1-A1 combination immensely with my new Sennheiser 650s, and all of this stuff just arrived in the last nine days.   Shades of time-dilation.  Hard to believe I clicked "yes" on that many PayPal buttons in so short a time and signed to take delivery of so many wonderful little packages.


----------



## ninjikiran

I see it all the time on ebay and it annoys me to no end.  People buying items for like $10 off retail price, kind of like some strange bidding addiction.


----------



## Dynobot

Live and Learn
   
  If you didn't learn anything you will repeat the coarse, so let the value of your lesson sink in....
   
   
  Quote: 





greg121986 said:


> I just bought a Maverick D1 used on Ebay for $215 shipped. I am a really upset that I paid so much for it, considering a new one would go for only $20 more. I sniped the auction at $200 thinking it would never go for that price. It had one bid for $125 up until the very last minute. I guess it is kind of my fault for setting such a high snipe price, but I did not think it would reach that point.
> 
> This is my first attempt at hi-fi audio and it's my first purchase. Is it a good one? I'm wondering if my $215 would have been better spent somewhere else. I think I might pair it with some AKG 701 or 702s.


----------



## tangelo

Quote: 





trapper32 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Wait, so wait you're telling me is that this won't fit?
   
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=296-19953-5-ND


----------



## ninjikiran

Looks like a dual model based on description, appears to be Dip8.  Besides any offsets I don't see any reason for it not to work.
  Quote: 





tangelo said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Trapper32

Yes, its the dip8 version not a smd.   The exact ones I've used are the OPA2107AP
  Quote: 





tangelo said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Shevlock

Spanky- Just wanted to say that I really appreciated your thread on the Maverick D1. It was largely based on your obvious enthusiasm that I purchased one myself and recently received delivery. I was wondering if you or anyone else had experienced this issue with the USB DAC as well.
   
  Sometimes, the sound will just cut out while listening for an extended period of time. The only way that I can solve it is by reconnecting the USB cable. Any ideas on  how to solve this?
   
  Thank for any help you can cast on the matter.


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


shevlock said:


> Sometimes, the sound will just cut out while listening for an extended period of time. The only way that I can solve it is by reconnecting the USB cable. Any ideas on  how to solve this?


 

 I've had something like this happen to me, and have heard about it from other D1 owners.  What media player are you using?  With Foobar, I sometimes get an "unrecoverable playback error; the device is not ready" message for no apparent reason while I am in the process of extended listening.  I just restart playback with the software, sometimes going into the ouput section of the preferences to discover that Foobar suddenly doesn't know what the output device is.  Are you using the generic "Microsoft USB audio device" that auto-installs when you plug the unit in?  I don't really have any answers, but if you answer those questions, the _next_ person who reads this thread might be able to offer some more specific advice.  And it was Spanky's excellent condensed FAQ and the enthusiasm of other Maverick owners on Head-Fi that got me to order my own D1 before I actually joined and made my first post here a scant three weeks ago.


----------



## Shevlock

I am using itunes but it doesn't matter what the program is- windows just can't output sound through the device. If I "test device" in the sound source window, it will say that it failed to play the sound.
   
  I should also add that I often  hear crackling/other sound artifacts that are not in the actual audio files (ie generated by the device). I know that the FAQ said that the tubes need to be warmed up, but this persists in extended listening sessions.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> shevlock said:
> ...


 


  I can confirm I have the "unrecoverable playback error; the device is not ready" error as well with Foobar. I just reconnect the D1 and relaunch foobar. Fortunately it only happens rarely (and often with the same mp3s)


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





shevlock said:


> I am using itunes but it doesn't matter what the program is- windows just can't output sound through the device. If I "test device" in the sound source window, it will say that it failed to play the sound.
> 
> I should also add that I often  hear crackling/other sound artifacts that are not in the actual audio files (ie generated by the device). I know that the FAQ said that the tubes need to be warmed up, but this persists in extended listening sessions.


 

 Sometimes the D1 can make a clicking sound when the MP3 bitrate between songs changes, but during playback I've never heard any strange things


----------



## Shevlock

I should also add that windows volume control (even mute) does not affect this device at all. The only thing that will change the volume is if the software itself does it. I've used USB DAC's before and never run into this. Is there another driver that we could apply instead for better compatibility/reliability?


----------



## ninjikiran

are you sure your default device is set to the USB Sound device?  Are you sure your not using some kind of bypass like WASAPI?  Cause by all means it should work with windows digital volume control if its going through direct sound.


----------



## Shevlock

Yeah, it is  th edefault device. That's why I'm also confused as to why the windows volume control deosn't work. I don't know what WASAPI is, but the only adjustment I've made is using the sound playback device manager to set the USB DAC as the default audio device.


----------



## ninjikiran

Dont know whats going on but.... the D1 uses the same driver other dacs use which is the standard windows USB driver.  Unless it is a non Halite Async transport/dac.


----------



## Ultrainferno

I don't know too much about windows, but when my D1 is connected the Windows"Master volume" slider doesn't work, but the "Wave" slider does


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


shevlock said:


> I should also add that I often  hear crackling/other sound artifacts that are not in the actual audio files (ie generated by the device). I know that the FAQ said that the tubes need to be warmed up, but this persists in extended listening sessions.


 

 I have a problem that I would describe in the same general terms, but I am not sure which link of my audio playback chain to attribute it to, whether it's the D1 itself, or something I am inadvertently feeding it.  I live in a very high static electricity environment (I have a pair of Etymotic MC-5 IEMs, and when I leave them in my ears and disconnect them completely from any source, I get a lot of crackling noises in my ears that is just static discharge from the wire rubbing against my clothes), and I think that it (ambient static electricity) _may_ play some role in my random "artifacts" problem.   So, in what Spanky has told me via PM is probably a case of overkill, I got a galvanic USB isolator to electronically "decouple" my D1 from my laptop's USB bus (occasionally, I hear a momentary drop-out when some other device is active elsewhere on the USB), and this device to avoid the D1's USB input and go into its co-ax S/PDIF input instead:
   
http://www.teradak.com/ProductsView.Asp?id=21
   
  Of course, I don't advocate that you spend more of your money in an effort to remedy a problem that might not provide any results, but according to Spanky, the Teralink X2 provides an SQ (sound quality) improvement, as well as isolation from USB line noises (some people claim they can hear their hard drives, mouse movements, etc.)
   
  And then there is the debate over the D1's device driver.  Until my Teralink X2 arrives (it is a plug-and-play intermediary device, so the DAC is no longer directly visible to Windows), I am using the somewhat controversial modified USB driver that Spanky and ninjikiran made when the D1 was first introduced, but seems to have fallen from favor.   You can find mention of it in the first post Spanky made in this condensed FAQ.  I don't understand it well enough to explain it, but it has worked for me so far, although not many other D1 owners still seem to use it, but it might be worth a trial as you try to localize the cause of your trouble.   
   
  I don't really know much compared to the other posters on this thread, but I know that the Maverick Audio "community" on Head-Fi is one of the most helpful groups of people I have seen in any on-line forum, which was a major influence in me deciding to join their ranks.  And of course, you can always send an e-mail to Ryan Ping at Maverick Audio describing your problem in as much detail as possible, and he will get back to you very quickly with possible causes and suggested remedies.  Good luck!


----------



## Shevlock

I contacted the company about the issues I've been having. They offered to take a look at if it I sent it back to them. They refused to pay for return shipping, which I find pretty disappointing, given that everyone raved about their customer service. It's more difficult because its shipping to China, which I can't imagine to be cheap when I'm paying out of pocket for something that was not my fault. Anyone have any suggestions? This is also my only DAC and only amp, so not having a replacement hurts also.


----------



## ninjikiran

Yea basically, in simple terms I learned the receiver chip only supported 16/48 meaning the driver was nigh useless.  Second it caused the device to click sample rates every time a new some was played which could of damaged the device over time.
   
  I honestly didn't know much about the various components of a dac, which led me to beleiving a simple driver would fix my problems.  At the same time I just used an existing driver from a similar device and made a small INF file change to make it detect the maverick.
   
  Thus the standard windows driver is both proper and optimal.
   
  I never really endorsed the driver past wanting to test it... but no one really responded to my test and Spanky decided to make it available in the FAQ before I made my analysis which I got back to him later on.
  Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> shevlock said:
> ...


 


> http://www.teradak.com/ProductsView.Asp?id=21
> 
> Of course, I don't advocate that you spend more of your money in an effort to remedy a problem that might not provide any results, but according to Spanky, the Teralink X2 provides an SQ (sound quality) improvement, as well as isolation from USB line noises (some people claim they can hear their hard drives, mouse movements, etc.)
> 
> ...


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


ninjikiran said:


> Yea basically, in simple terms I learned the receiver chip only supported 16/48 meaning the driver was nigh useless.  Second it caused the device to click sample rates every time a new some was played which could of damaged the device over time.
> 
> I honestly didn't know much about the various components of a dac, which led me to beleiving a simple driver would fix my problems.  At the same time I just used an existing driver from a similar device and made a small INF file change to make it detect the maverick.
> 
> Thus the standard windows driver is both proper and optimal.


 
   
  Sorry if I was spreading bad information, but I think the D1 owner we have all been trying to help is using the standard Windows driver; I will make no further mention of the modified driver that Spanky apparently went public with sooner than you would have liked.  However, as soon as I read the phrase  "...it caused the device to click sample rates every time a new some (song?) was played which could of damaged the device over time..." I immediately uninstalled it and tried to go to the standard Windows driver myself.  I am too tired to explain (or understand) all of my subsequent failures, but I ended up having to go back to the modified driver.  Hurry, Teralink X2!  I think I may have caused myself some problems by installing some variation of ASIO4ALL that Nuforce recommended for my uDAC-2 before I got the Maverick D1.   I have been out of the Windows world too long.  But I am going to give up and call it a night, even with the modified driver you don't recommend remaining in use.  Hopefully I won't damage my D1 before the Teralink arrives.
   
  I wish we could do more to help our fellow D1 owner's problems.  I know that USPS shipping for a D1 box back to Shanghai runs about $45, and if you have no fall-back DAC (at least I do), that's a tough situation.  I know from my own experience that so much of getting good help from people involves simply being able to _describe_ your problem(s) accurately, and if there are multiple variables in the equation, some of them hidden or unknown to you, it makes the task difficult.   Turning equipment off, including brain...


----------



## Mysteek

Sorry to derail the current topic at hand, but how would you compare the D1 and the uDac-2?
  
  Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> ninjikiran said:
> ...


----------



## attenuated 3db

Good question.  I spend more time talking about the Maverick unit on Head-Fi, but the Nuforce unit was my first DAC, and has its advantages over the Maverick.   The most obvious is portability; I have three notebook/netbook computers, and I never use their internal sound cards any more, regardless of where I take them.  The uDAC-2 slips into my Asus netbook bag easily, and instantly makes that tiny device a music powerhouse.  As small as it is, I'd have to say the Nuforce has better build quality than the Maverick, but then it is tiny because it is only USB powered and doesn't have an AC-based power supply.
   
  Sonically, the uDAC-2 is has a very precise, well-defined sound when it comes to musical detail, and I love it with my ATH-M50S or Etymotic MC-5s.  But when I first got my Sennheiser 650s (the Maverick D1 was in shipment), I could tell the Nuforce just didn't have the "ooomph" to drive a higher impedence phone, which I attribute to power supply limitations.  But the ESS Sabre DAC in the Nuforce is more modern than the Cirrus Logic DAC in the Maverick; the difference is all of the associated circuitry in a full-sized, wall-powered unit and something that runs off USB 5 volts.  If you get a uDAC-2 for whatever reason, don't make the mistake I made and buy the $99 headphone-jack only unit.  I didn't think I'd need any extra flexibility as I began this hobby, but I wish I had spent the extra $30 to get the unit with RCA and optical outputs, as well as an allegedly better volume potentiometer (although I don't notice any channel imbalance with mine at lower levels), which was a complaint about the original uDAC, whose pot it shares.
   
  I'm impressed with the high quality of the whole range of Nuforce products, but enjoy the ability to tinker with the innards of the Maverick products, and be part of a community closely linked to a small manufacturer who has a lot of give and take with his customers.  
  
  Quote: 





mysteek said:


> Sorry to derail the current topic at hand, but how would you compare the D1 and the uDac-2?


----------



## d3str0y3r0fn00bs

Anyone find it weird that my dac made a clicking noise from the unit itself after installing the 3rd party driver? The unit made a clicking sounds like a relay whenever I did anything. Could it have done any damage?


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


d3str0y3r0fn00bs said:


> Anyone find it weird that my dac made a clicking noise from the unit itself after installing the 3rd party driver? The unit made a clicking sounds like a relay whenever I did anything. Could it have done any damage?


 
   
  The driver was publicized prematurely, and has been withdrawn by ninjikiran, who recommends that it not be installed further, and uninstalled from any computer currently using it.  He talked me through how to do it myself via PM, quite an accomplishment:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/470639/maverick-audio-tubemagic-d1-dac-amp-condensed-faq-and-info-thread/225#post_7196143


----------



## Dublo7

Hi guys,
   
  I'm on the lookout for a new DAC and I think I'm choosing between either the Maverick D1 or the Firestone Spitfire. I will probably be plugging the new DAC into my Macbook Pro via optical, and then plug the DAC into my Cantate. I'm wondering if anyone here has had experience with these two DACs? The Tube pre-amp of the Maverick also looks like a pretty juicy extra that the Spitfire doesn't feature. I've never used a pre-amp, so I'm not exactly sure what this would offer me in terms of sound quality. 
   
  Oh also, if I do use the Maverick D1 as a pre-amp and DAC, do I use the volume knob on the D1 or my Cantate? Do I simply not worry about the volume knob on the D1 as it will be bypassed?
   
  If anyone has any insight, it would be much appreciated.


----------



## Mysteek

Haven't heard both but I can answer some of your questions:
  Using Mav as a pre-amp/DAC, you can choose to bypass the volume knob if you want (direct button).  By the way, I use the same setup as you described (mac optical out) and it is amazing =]
  
  Quote: 





dublo7 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm on the lookout for a new DAC and I think I'm choosing between either the Maverick D1 or the Firestone Spitfire. I will probably be plugging the new DAC into my Macbook Pro via optical, and then plug the DAC into my Cantate. I'm wondering if anyone here has had experience with these two DACs? The Tube pre-amp of the Maverick also looks like a pretty juicy extra that the Spitfire doesn't feature. I've never used a pre-amp, so I'm not exactly sure what this would offer me in terms of sound quality.
> 
> ...


----------



## pinoyman

maverick audio is planning to release a newer dac.
  i dont know if this would be better than the latest dac.
  still its a desktop type dac.


----------



## l0v3

I also got the same problem, without the offending USB drivers ever installed ....


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





l0v3 said:


> I also got the same problem, without the offending USB drivers ever installed ....


 


  The clicking issue or the error messages? I wouldn't call the clicking an issue actually


----------



## Riverback

The weird thing is, when using the 3rd party drivers, I could control the volume through the Windows Volume mixer.
   
  Now I'm back to the default driver and it completely bypasses it and the stepped pot is a bit too loud. Anyone got a fix?


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





riverback said:


> The weird thing is, when using the 3rd party drivers, I could control the volume through the Windows Volume mixer.
> 
> Now I'm back to the default driver and it completely bypasses it and the stepped pot is a bit too loud. Anyone got a fix?


 


  Put a signal convertor in between the D1 and your pc so the Dac isn't recognized directly by your pc (maybe you have one?). There must be some other option, but I'm not that technically equiped, sorry. I never installed any other driver, and my windows wav slider and the volume slider in foobar always worked


----------



## Riverback

Nvm, turns out my default drivers weren't updated and C-Media has a more updated generic driver.
   
  The D1's now recognized as a Digital Output instead of just USB Audio.


----------



## zdkaiser

so i am utterly confused with this driver business for the D1.
   
  i am using the C-media one that was posted by a head-fier. now i read that i shouldn't use that one anymore because it could potentially damage the D1...
   
  so what is it? I really want to use this D1 at 24bit/96khz via USB, but with the Windows driver in my laptop I can only get 16-48khz. do i need to switch something else up in the configuration? the realtek driver in the computer says it is capable of up to 32bit-192kHZ. but maybe I am miss understanding that.
   
  I don't know what to do. i went back to the C-media driver because it says it is running the D1 through ASIO at 24bit/96khz. and that is what I want.
   
  so, is this clicking really going to harm the unit? has anyone contacted Maverick Audio about this, to get the official word? what is the clicking noise anyways?


----------



## ninjikiran

The USB receiver is not built for anything other than 16/48khz.
   
  It results in clicking of sample rate  in every song as well as strange intermitant clicks.  Don't know whats going on but I am pretty sure that is not a desirable effect.
   
  There are switches in the dac chip I am assuming which makes that audible click and its perfectly ok when switching between 44/88 and 48/96 over spdif.


----------



## NoEars

Is there an ETA on the new replacement DAC? I'm holding off buying one until the 24/bit 96hz problem is solved.


----------



## Chris5488

Hi everyone,
   
  Today, I received my Maverick D1.
  I planned to cennect it by toslink, but something isn't going quite well.
   
  Probably it's a cable or Windows fault, but anyway I need help and maybe some of you could help me:
   
  When I connect it by toslink, and go to the settings in Windows (7 64bit), I can only select 16-bit frequencies 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





)
  So that is 16-44,1khz, 16-48khz, 16-88,2khz 16-96khz, 16-176,4khz, 16-192khz.
  Why no 24 bit?? Well, then I selected 16-96khz because the D1 should accept 96khz, but NO!
  Noise and distortion is all I can hear, the only frequencies that work are 16-44,8khz and 16-48khz.
   
  Why is that? Why can't I select 24-bit and why won't it go any higher then 16-48khz?
   
  Thanks in advance.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Have you read anything in this thread?


----------



## Chris5488

Well I read enough about the fact that the USB can't, but toslink should be able to play 24-96khz, which isn't happening for me...
   
  edit: an update made it possible to select the 24-bit frequencies, but once again, can't get it to 24-96khz because it gives noise and distortion, lower then 96khz does work.
   
  So, question remains: why can't I get 96khz with toslink? Could it be a bad cable? Or something else?


----------



## ninjikiran

In short toslink is a method of Transport, which is controlled by your sound card which I assume is integrated motherboard solution.  Whats preventing you from 24-bit is not the maverick, nor is it the cable.  It is your transport, or rather your integrated sound card which is limiting it.
   
  You might want to invest in an external transport that supports up to 24/96khz.
  
  Quote: 





chris5488 said:


> Well I read enough about the fact that the USB can't, but toslink should be able to play 24-96khz, which isn't happening for me...
> 
> edit: an update made it possible to select the 24-bit frequencies, but once again, can't get it to 24-96khz because it gives noise and distortion, lower then 96khz does work.
> 
> So, question remains: why can't I get 96khz with toslink? Could it be a bad cable? Or something else?


----------



## Chris5488

Well it is an integrated motherboard solution, it's a SupremeFX X-Fi on an Asus Rampage II Gene.
  Better then what you would normally find on a motherboard, but I can't find many info about the toslink output.
   
  But analog, I can get every frequency I want, 24-96khz and even 24-192khz, so if analog works, shouldn't toslink work too?


----------



## ninjikiran

The DAC(on your sound card) itself is capable of 24/96khz but its possible the toslink output is not.  It goes through different controllers and chips.
  Quote: 





chris5488 said:


> Well it is an integrated motherboard solution, it's a SupremeFX X-Fi on an Asus Rampage II Gene.
> Better then what you would normally find on a motherboard, but I can't find many info about the toslink output.
> 
> But analog, I can get every frequency I want, 24-96khz and even 24-192khz, so if analog works, shouldn't toslink work too?


----------



## Riverback

Read the above posts, sad to say the D1's DAC can only support 16-bit frequencies =(
  
  Quote: 





chris5488 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Today, I received my Maverick D1.
> I planned to cennect it by toslink, but something isn't going quite well.
> ...


----------



## Chris5488

Quote: 





riverback said:


> Read the above posts, sad to say the D1's DAC can only support 16-bit frequencies =(


 

  
  I've read the posts, for USB it's only 16-bit indeed, but I am connecting by toslink like I already told.
  An update for the soundcard gave me the 24 bit options at last! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, and 24 bit *does* work by toslink (or digital coaxial), but again it only works untill 96khz.
  I'm listening to 24bit/48khz right now.
   
   
  Thanks for the info ninjikiran, I'll keep it with 24bit/48khz audio for now.
  I am planning to buy the next iMac anyway, so then the problem should be solved.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





riverback said:


> Read the above posts, sad to say the D1's DAC can only support 16-bit frequencies =(


 


  I'd be a bit surprised if this was true. I feed the D1 24/96 all the time. Although, there really is no way to test it... I would <3 a DAC that had a display.


----------



## ninjikiran

The dac supports up to 24/96.
   
  Its the USB input that only supports 16/48... connecting by Toslink or RCA Spdif will allow you to use any standard audio format to 24/96khz
   
  But if your transport be it outputting Toslink or RCA Spdif doesn't support it due to the output chips used or driver software than obviously you are going to be limited by that as well.


----------



## canadaguy

what's the consensus on this unit for use with HD650's?


----------



## attenuated 3db

Quote:


canadaguy said:


> what's the consensus on this unit for use with HD650's?


 

 Replacing the stock headphone output op-amp of the Maverick D1 with the popular LM4562 chip makes a significant improvement in the sound, but to achieve the full sonic potential of the HD650s, you'll want a separate headphone amplifier eventually.   The companion Maverick A1 integrated amp makes my Senn 650s sound very good, and drives bookshelf speakers as well.


----------



## _Spanky_

I believe Ryan uses HD650's with his equipment. Must sound good to him


----------



## gadut

I just got a second hand D1 with my high expectation on sound improvement. When i try to use headphone out thru my HD555, i can hear a noticeable hiss which is so annoying. It's worst than my audigy 2 soundcard hiss. The connection is using optical from my motherboard to D1. When i try the tube out thru my promedia, i still can hear annoying hiss, while i can't hear any hiss from audigy at half volume.

Anyone have the same experience ? any idea to solve this hiss ?

Anyway, despite hiss issue, i can hear the difference between D1 and audigy in term of sound stage,clarity and rich bass. Something that i always struggle with audigy's boomy bass and bad treble.


----------



## gadut

After testing with opamp and tube rolling,the best configuration that get : LM4562NA+Raytheon 5670 but I still can notice this annoying hiss  so i switch with alternative configuration, set low vol on D1 about 1/3 and set higher vol on foobar. At least not too much noise 

Since i'm just starting to like "Audiophile" with some album in CD format, I start to enjoy this D1 in slow music. The music is so rich, but after listening less than 1 hour, I switch back to my original mp3 which mostly in 128kbps 

My ear can't deny it, D1 with tube out just like a sport car with 1000cc, got no power to follow the rhythm, even though non tube pre-out. I find most noticeable differences vs my Audigy 2 :
- Linkin Park And Jay-Z - Numb/Encore
- Green Day - American Idiot
- Gwen Stefani - Hollandback Girl

Is any op-amp/tube combination that can give extra capability to D1 to play fast music ?


----------



## pocketrocket

I couldn't find an answer, does plugging headphones into the headphone out mute the line-out channels? Also is anyone using the D1 with AKG K-601?


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





pocketrocket said:


> I couldn't find an answer, does plugging headphones into the headphone out mute the line-out channels? Also is anyone using the D1 with AKG K-601?


 


  No it doesn't do that. Can't help you with the AKGs, sry


----------



## ccklone

Hey Now,

I'll check when I get home about the line out muting or not when a headphone is plugged in. I seem to recall that it does not mute the line out, but I will check. I also use the AKG K601. The D1 drives them to decent volume, since they are a high impedance headphone. I also have opamp rolled with the LM4562 in the amp section. It sounds very good. I find the K601 being kind of an all around headphone, so it is not terrific, but very enjoyable sounding.

--
Finest kind,
Chris


----------



## pocketrocket

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> No it doesn't do that. Can't help you with the AKGs, sry


 

  Well that's weird since there's no button to mute the speakers either. Does the direct-button affect the headphone out too? If not, awesome because I can use a passive volume control knob in the rear panels line out.


----------



## ninjikiran

The maverick works best if you use headphones/speakers if you have something in the signal path that can be shut off or muted.  Like active/powered speakers or a pre/speaker amp to passive.


----------



## ccklone

Hey Now,

The headphone out does not mute the line out when headphones are plugged into the D1. Running iTunes > Ethernet > Airport Express > Optical > D1 > AVR. Speakers have sound and headphones can be controlled with volume knob. I have the direct button pushed in.

I don't normally listen to the D1 with the K601s, they normally are in the backroom with the Zhaolu (father-in-laws room for his classical tunes). But they sound good with HDTracks hi-rez of "Gaucho" right now. They are bit light on bass, not very impactful, shallow decay, but still defined. The overall sound is well balanced.

--
Finest kind,
Chris


----------



## D-Boy

If possible maybe we can update the compatible opamps a little.  I tried reading but does the Maverick require a 2 to 1 adapter for any opamp switching?
   
  I'm thinking of trying a LM4562 as suggested by ccklone and the OPA627... However can anyone shed light on the elusive OPA249 opamp that
  Albert Jochems mentions in his review of the D1 on head-fi gear?  I've tried searching, maybe it's a typo?
   
  Thank you in advanced.


----------



## attenuated 3db

Good luck with the like-new Maverick D1!


----------



## middachten

I've had PM from various people about the OP249 I use. Since I've kept coming back to this OpAmp in my D1, and its my favorite when it comes to the midrange, I thought I might as well post my answer here:
   
   
  The OpAmp was designed by Analog Devices (like almost all good sounding opamps
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





).

  A spec sheet can be found here: http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/data_sheets/OP249.pdf

  Its being sold by Farnell. In the Netherlands you get it for +/- €6,50. You don't need an adapter, its a standard 8-pin DIP dual OpAmp config. In fact, its the dual version of the OP149.


----------



## D-Boy

I was one of the people who asked about the OP249... I ended up trying the OPA627 however I only bought one and after looking at the data sheet... maybe this could be added to the FAQ:
   
  You need an adapter as the 8 pin DIP socket is for dual op-amps.  Meaning swapping a OPA627 will be incorrect without a 2-1 adapter.  Is there a dual version of the Burr Brown OPA 627?
   
  I will order the OP249 soon after I figure out what I want from digike.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

If I were to get the D1 would I be able to bypass using the USB and instead use the optical out (TOSLINK) from my PC's sound card?
   
  Would that help eliminate signal noise since there is no metal to metal signal transfer through the optical cable?
   
  Lastly, would using optical allow for the full up sampling of 24bit/96kHz that the USB apparently doesn't allow?
   
  Sorry for all the questions. I'm just trying to get the best sound per $ and the D1's price is right.


----------



## attenuated 3db

tequilasunriser said:


> If I were to get the D1 would I be able to bypass using the USB and instead use the optical out (TOSLINK) from my PC's sound card?
> 
> Would that help eliminate signal noise since there is no metal to metal signal transfer through the optical cable?
> 
> ...




Yes, you can use the optical out (TOSLINK) from your computer's sound card to go into the D1's optical input, and it will process 96/24 files at their native rate. The optical connection electrically "decouples" your computer from the D1 DAC, but the sound quality will depend on your computer and sound card. My Sony laptop still sounded better using USB, even though it was limited to 44/16, but that was just because laptops typically don't have good internal sound cards. So, try it, and see how it sounds. My best results came from using a Teralink X2 USB-S/PDIF converter and going into the D1's 75-ohm coaxial input.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I saw a link to that Teralink converter a page or two back. I'll look into it more extensively.
   
  So going through optical won't up sample the audio then? Damn. It's aggravating that it says it will up convert to 24/96 but in actuality it doesn't.
   
  "...the sound quality will depend on your computer and sound card"
   
  I thought that data through an optical output is unprocessed until it reaches a DAC?
   
  Thank you for the prompt reply!


----------



## attenuated 3db

tequilasunriser said:


> I saw a link to that Teralink converter a page or two back. I'll look into it more extensively.
> 
> So going through optical won't up sample the audio then? Damn. It's aggravating that it says it will up convert to 24/96 but in actuality it doesn't.
> 
> ...




Uh, the optical and coax inputs allow 96/24 files to be processed at their native rates. If you want to "upsample" a file, you can use software (Foobar has a re-sampler built in), but there is no real advantage and likely sound quality degredation to doing so. Most 44/16 Redbook CD standard files sound pretty good as-is. Maybe your optical output is different than mine. In my Sony laptop, the audio-out jack doubles as an optical output, so it is obviously dependent on the sound card. Yours may not be. Just try it is the best advice I can give. And A/B with the USB input. If you use Windows 7, be sure to download Service Pack 1, which has a new USB sound driver. It may sound better, other than not being able to process hi-res files at their native rate.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks, I realized that what I asked, about the 24/96 up sampling, was redundant after I submitted the post but felt I shouldn't edit just in case. 
   
  One final question (and honestly my most important question) and then I'll leave you alone.
   
  How is the hiss? I'm sure it's unavoidable but is it bad? That question is for anyone that has the D1 and feels like sharing.
   
  I currently have a Qinpu Q2 amp connected to my PC's sound card via a Y-splitter, and sometimes when I take the volume past 12 o'clock the hiss becomes absolutely rage inducing. With modest volume it sounds phenomenal with little detectable hiss, but sometimes I want LOUD and loud usually comes with a hiss.


----------



## attenuated 3db

tequilasunriser said:


> Thanks, I realized that what I asked, about the 24/96 up sampling, was redundant after I submitted the post but felt I shouldn't edit just in case.
> 
> One final question (and honestly my most important question) and then I'll leave you alone.
> 
> ...




Well, "hiss" is a form of noise, and noise is present to a greater or lesser degree in all electronic gain circuits, hence the "signal to noise ratio" specification. You can minimize it by making sure all of your connections are of the best integrity you can make them. Don't know about your specific Y-splitter, but splitters in general are prone to introducing noise into a circuit. Just ask any cable-TV installer. Keep your cords as short as possible, make sure everything is tight, and re-arrange cables if need be to see if it makes a difference. My D1 was quiet, but I am careful about signal paths. I have two ferrite-core beads on my 8-inch USB cable going into my Teradak X2, and then a high-end Monoprice 75-ohm shielded coax going to my Audio-gd NFB-3 DAC, but I used the same front end with my D1, and it was very quiet. So just tinker is all I can say; the D1 is not inherently noisy, although I must admit my NFB-3 is quieter.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Good to now about the cables. I hadn't really given it a thought.
   
  I'm going to have to look into getting some better/shorter cables.
   
  My Y-splitter isn't actually a splitter. I misused the term, it is a Y-cable. It has a 3.5mm jack on one end (PC out) and stereo RCAs on the other (amp in). Forgive my noobness.


----------



## candc07

I have my D1 and noticed that running my cd player analog outs to the d1 analog ins there is considerable distortion in the headphone out but not through the analog outs of the d1.  I have tried the same cd through the optical in and it is clear as day. Can any one give some insight into this?


----------



## Riverback

Might be the analog ins on the D1 or the CD player's analog out.
   
  Try cleaning the analog ins and see how that goes


----------



## Riverback

I just plugged in the OP249 today. The midrange is so sweet, very engaging compared to the LM4562


----------



## djnagle

Hi River Back.  I've not been keeping track of all the changes in this tread, so tell me, what is the OP249?  Is it a plug and play or do changes have to be made elsewhere.
   
  Also, working on this little stuff is not in my comfort zone.  I can do it, I've done it on other peices, but I've been putting making the opamp swap off.  So now it is time.  So where do I buy the new opamps?


----------



## Riverback

Depends on where you are, but I got mine from Farnell/element14. I think people in the US get theirs from Digikey
  http://www.farnell.com/
   
  Swapping opamps is just plug-n-play, just make sure the orientation's the same when you plug them in


----------



## Hypnotique

After using my D1 for a year now, i just purchased a pair or monitoring speakers and connected them to my D1 RCA outputs.
   
  But the outputs are faulty.They worked fine for a few days but now, I either get no sound from one or both of the RCA outputs, or a distorted sound / very low volume. This is the case with both the pre-amp and the normal RCA outputs.
   
  Its very frustrating. What's wrong here?


----------



## Riverback

Best to email Ryan about that. =/


----------



## pocketrocket

I think I'm ordering a D1 soon. Anyone using theirs with active monitors? I'm wondering how big is the noise floor when using optical digital and active speakers or semi-efficient headphones or IEM. My current set is very noisy because it's a USB DAC running ground to the computer, causing a ground loop between DAC and speakers.


----------



## middachten

The D1 is not the most silent DAC I've heard. My TC-Konnekt and Audio-GD are more silent. But it does a good job. Going optical/digital would at least zero out the noise coming from the computer.


----------



## ninjikiran

Kinda depends on the headphones in terms of how noisy the D1 sounds but it certainly is not the cleanest DAC i n the world.  Though it really shouldn't scare anyone away, its not something especially noticeable during music, nor is it particularly distinct or annoying without music playing.  Its all relative~
   
  If all Audio-GD gear is as good as the NFB-2 I don't think you can get any better in terms of audible noise floor.  At least with my headphones.
   
  By the way a poor digital output can affect the quality of the conversion, to what extent is questionable.


----------



## pocketrocket

I'm curious if an Asus Xonar DG or DX series sound card would give me better optical out than my motherboard integrated.

 My headphones are AKG K 272 HD, so 55 ohms and 91dB/V, max power input 220mW. It's slightly on the quiet side with portable devices, but not difficult to drive at all. No noise is present with FiiO E7 or Creative Audigy SE (really cheap sound card), so I suppose I'm clear!


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





pocketrocket said:


> I'm curious if an Asus Xonar DG or DX series sound card would give me better optical out than my motherboard integrated.
> 
> My headphones are AKG K 272 HD, so 55 ohms and 91dB/V, max power input 220mW. It's slightly on the quiet side with portable devices, but not difficult to drive at all. No noise is present with FiiO E7 or Creative Audigy SE (really cheap sound card), so I suppose I'm clear!


 


  It's my understanding that audio from a PC transfered through the optical output goes unprocessed (raw data) until it reaches the DAC equipment whatever that equipment might be (the D1 in this case), so it shouldn't matter if the optical is from your onboard or a dedicated sound card. Though, I could be wrong. Can anyone else chime in and help some noobs?


----------



## pocketrocket

That totally depends. Windows can alter the stream by doing some re-sampling of it's own, and there are all sorts of doo-hickeys in sound card drivers that are better left disabled. I believe you can get rid of this all by using ASIO. I was mainly wondering is the connection more reliable and does it have less jitter if it's transported from a quality sound card rather than a $1 integrated chip.

 On top of that I'm not completely sure what bit depth and sample rate does the said $1 integrated chip send. Obviously a 96kHz/24-bit output would be preferred. My motherboard, M4A88TD-V EVO is said to support 192khz/24bit, but I don't know if that's the analog out or digital out or both, it's never specified in the manual which is why I'm curious.
  
  Quote: 





tequilasunriser said:


> It's my understanding that audio from a PC transfered through the optical output goes unprocessed until it reaches the DAC equipment whatever that equipment might be (the D1 in this case), so it shouldn't matter if the optical is from your onboard or a dedicated sound card. Though, I could be wrong. Can anyone else chime in and help some noobs?


----------



## ataller

I have read most if not all of this thread. 

I do not see a consensus on which if any opamps are better than the stock amps. 

Is it worthwhile to switch them? Should I switch the dac and amp?
Any all around goto opamp for hd650s?


Thanks!


----------



## _Spanky_

ataller said:


> I have read most if not all of this thread.
> 
> I do not see a consensus on which if any opamps are better than the stock amps.
> 
> ...




Did you not read the first post? I guess it's not spelled out that the stock opamps suck... So... here it is:
The stock opamps suck. They're not even meant for audio. Almost any opamp is better as long as it has no DC Offset.

For all around good and popular opamps, LM4562 is a cheap option.


----------



## Chris5488

Didn't knew they weren't even meant for audio?
  Is the LM4562 that good? Or is it just "Less shrill with more detailed bass" as you described in the startpost?
  I don't find the standard opamps shrill... probably just because I haven't tried other opamps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I also found this: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?s=388b4947d285710a1f4a01b704ef0915&p=3856836&postcount=2
  He has an Tube DAC-09, which is basically the same as the TubeMagic A1. He tweaked it a lot!
   
  What I find most intriguing are these changes:
  * Replaced LF353N op amp for DAC chip with LT1364 (had to put a heat sink on the LT1364 as it is getting very hot).
 * Replaced LF353N op amp for headphone amp with LM4562.
  2 opamps: one as DAC and one as headphone amp -> Is this also the case with the D1?


----------



## mrarroyo

The LM4562 is to many a great sounding op-amp. Some may find it to have an energetic top end, I have not found that to be the case. For the record the metal version is IMO a better sounding op-amp but it is hard to find since it has been discontinued.


----------



## _Spanky_

Yea the LM4562 is a great improvement. It really transforms the unit.

Using the LT1364 for the DAC and LM4562 for the headphone amp is a popular option, I have that setup in mine (also with heatsinks, I don't think they're needed though) and I like how it sounds.


----------



## ninjikiran

A good sound card supports bit-perfect output over spdif, the onboard units don't seem to.  Also  the x-fi's don't seem to have any problem supporting all sample rates over spdif.  Don't think the same can be said for ASUS cards but on the ST/STX the digital output was extremely well thought out... even if it doesn't support all outputs(similar to the tenor units).
   
  Best thing to do though is get an external transport, or use the built in USB on the DAC.  Save the Asus/X-Fi cards for gaming, especially since the mav has analog inputs.


----------



## Riverback

The LM4562 is the same opamp as the LME49720. Apparently they decided to change the naming scheme on their products and kept the LM4562 due to the number of awards that it won.
   
  You can still get it in metal can version as the LME49720HA
  Quote: 





mrarroyo said:


> The LM4562 is to many a great sounding op-amp. Some may find it to have an energetic top end, I have not found that to be the case. For the record the metal version is IMO a better sounding op-amp but it is hard to find since it has been discontinued.


----------



## sizzlincok

Quote: 





riverback said:


> The LM4562 is the same opamp as the LME49720. Apparently they decided to change the naming scheme on their products and kept the LM4562 due to the number of awards that it won.
> 
> You can still get it in metal can version as the LME49720HA


 
  That's what I thought. I looked at the entire opamp sheet that they had available to view, and I noticed they're the exact same thing.


----------



## ataller

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

  
  Wow sorry for insulting you. Moving on.


----------



## Ultrainferno

You caught him in a bad mood. I'm sure he's sorry.
  But he did have a point as wel


----------



## _Spanky_

ultrainferno said:


> You caught him in a bad mood. I'm sure he's sorry.
> But he did have a point as wel




My point is that I took the effort to compile all the information so people wouldn't ask the same questions over and over again. I spent a lot of time making it easy to understand so it's a little frustrating when someone either skips it or doesn't understand it.


----------



## B-Dawk20

So spanky, I know you think the original op amps are trash and all but how would a noobie like me feel about them? This is my first amp and it was a gift and the only real thing I know is a cheapo $30 sound card I bought four years ago. I've never switched op amps before and I'm not really ready to start doing that until I actually get a good amount of hours with this thing.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





b-dawk20 said:


> So spanky, I know you think the original op amps are trash and all but how would a noobie like me feel about them? This is my first amp and it was a gift and the only real thing I know is a cheapo $30 sound card I bought four years ago. I've never switched op amps before and I'm not really ready to start doing that until I actually get a good amount of hours with this thing.


 

 It's easy (take about 10 seconds to swap opamps; just pull out the old one and push in the new one.) and opamps are super cheap at Digikey.
   
  Just read Spanky's first post.
   
  I got 2 brand new opamps for $12 shipped, I swapped out the stock ones the day my D1 arrived.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





tequilasunriser said:


> It's easy (take about 10 seconds to swap opamps; just pull out the old one and push in the new one.) and opamps are super cheap at Digikey.
> 
> Just read Spanky's first post.
> 
> I got 2 brand new opamps for $12 shipped, I swapped out the stock ones the day my D1 arrived.


 

 I did read his first post, I just know I like having a raw experience before I start messing with stuff. That and I really wanna know his perspective on my question. How would someone like me react to the stock op amps.


----------



## Riverback

First thing's first is you'll find the sound uncomfortable, a little grating tbh.
   
  Then you realize how crap they are once you swap them with a good opamp worth $6
  Quote: 





b-dawk20 said:


> So spanky, I know you think the original op amps are trash and all but how would a noobie like me feel about them? This is my first amp and it was a gift and the only real thing I know is a cheapo $30 sound card I bought four years ago. I've never switched op amps before and I'm not really ready to start doing that until I actually get a good amount of hours with this thing.


----------



## B-Dawk20

So in the future should I get one for the DAC and the AMP?


----------



## Ultrainferno

If you plan on using the headphone out, yes you should swap out both. It's easy, very cheap and it improves your D1 alot!


----------



## Riverback

You only need to swap the Amp opamp for the Headphone out.
   
  The DAC one's for the Analog/Tube-out


----------



## Riverback

You only need to swap the Amp opamp for the headphone out
   
  The DAC opamp is for the Analog out


----------



## Riverback

Double post


----------



## B-Dawk20

riverback said:


> You only need to swap the Amp opamp for the headphone out
> 
> The DAC opamp is for the Analog out




really? why wouldnt it be effected despite me using it via usb?


----------



## Chris5488

(image from startpost, from lameduck)
   
  Okay so when I pick the LM4562 and LT1364 then the LM4562NA/NOPB goes in the socket right/above of the tube (the DAC I presume?) and the LT1364CN8#PBF goes right of that white cable (headphone amp I presume?)?


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





chris5488 said:


> (image from startpost, from lameduck)
> 
> Okay so when I pick the LM4562 and LT1364 then the LM4562NA/NOPB goes in the socket right/above of the tube (the DAC I presume?) and the LT1364CN8#PBF goes right of that white cable (headphone amp I presume?)?


 

 They're labeled U5 and U6 on the PCB. U5 is the DAC opamp socket (located closest to the tube). U6 is the amp opamp socket located to the far right on the PCB.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Based on the descriptions I've read here, I think I've come to the conclusion that I wanna buy these two
  http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=LM4562NA%2FNOPB
  http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go〈=en&site=us&keywords=LT1364CN8%23PBF&x=16&y=16
   
  They are the right form factor and everything correct? I'm just not sure about all the sizes and stuff of the Opamps. Also, what is this DC offset thing? Is it an issue with these two specifically or will I just be able to plop em in and forget about them when I'm ready to switch up?


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





b-dawk20 said:


> Based on the descriptions I've read here, I think I've come to the conclusion that I wanna buy these two
> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=LM4562NA%2FNOPB
> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go〈=en&site=us&keywords=LT1364CN8%23PBF&x=16&y=16
> 
> They are the right form factor and everything correct? I'm just not sure about all the sizes and stuff of the Opamps. Also, what is this DC offset thing? Is it an issue with these two specifically or will I just be able to plop em in and forget about them when I'm ready to switch up?


 

 Yes, they're the correct form factor.
   
  Not sure about the DC offset you speak of, but I have those 2 as well. Just plop them in and forget.


----------



## Bill Mac

Are most buying the Mav D1 directly from Maverick's site? Anyone using the D1 with Denon AH-D2000s? I was set to order a PS Audio GCHA but the D1 looks to be a great option at a much lower price.
   
  Bill


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





tequilasunriser said:


> Yes, they're the correct form factor.
> 
> Not sure about the DC offset you speak of, but I have those 2 as well. Just plop them in and forget.


 

  
  Oh ok, cool. Which one do you like to use with the amp part?


----------



## Tequilasunriser

I waited for a deal on eBay. Happened to get it for about $150 shipped and it ended up being a version 3 so I'm pretty happy about that.
   
  I'm very impressed with the audio quality, granted, I didn't experience the stock sound, but with opamps and tubes being as cheap as they are and easy to install I don't think it's really necessary to judge it based on it's stock sound.
   
  I've only tried it with Sennheiser HD555s, AKG K240s, and a random pair of iMetal IEMs, but it sounds great with all of them.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





b-dawk20 said:


> Oh ok, cool. Which one do you like to use with the amp part?


 


  LM4562 in the amp section and LT1364 in the DAC section.
   
  I basically copied what Spanky socketed into his so I could skip the stock sound with recommended sound on day one of having the D1, but now I feel like ordering a few opamps and experimenting with the sound.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





tequilasunriser said:


> LM4562 in the amp section and LT1364 in the DAC section.
> 
> I basically copied what Spanky socketed into his so I could skip the stock sound with recommended sound on day one of having the D1, but now I feel like ordering a few opamps and experimenting with the sound.


 


  Ah ok, I think I'll try that out then. I wanted to get another amp before I got another pair of headphones and I'm just glad this one was given to me so I can just spend some money on a few new cans to hook up with it. I'm just glad this thing punches a lot of power so that specifically never ends up being the issue with coupling between it and other cans. Since it was tested with the HD650's apparently so I might get those bad boys.


----------



## Riverback

If you read the first page, the audio routing goes [Out of the DAC > Volume Pot -> Headphone Amp (opamp on the right)] for the Headphone out.
   
  The DAC opamp only gets used as gain stage for the Tube out and the Analog out with or without the Direct Button Enabled.
   
  Quote: 





b-dawk20 said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





riverback said:


> If you read the first page, the audio routing goes [Out of the DAC > Volume Pot -> Headphone Amp (opamp on the right)] for the Headphone out.
> 
> The DAC opamp only gets used as gain stage for the Tube out and the Analog out with or without the Direct Button Enabled.


 

  
  Yeah, I tried to read that and got confused so I waited for you to post and tell me


----------



## sillysally

Quote: 





bill mac said:


> Are most buying the Mav D1 directly from Maverick's site? Anyone using the D1 with Denon AH-D2000s? I was set to order a PS Audio GCHA but the D1 looks to be a great option at a much lower price.
> 
> Bill


 

 Hi Bill, nice to see you here on Head-fi. Now I know where you are getting your idea's from.
   
  ss


----------



## Riverback

Note to self, when changing opamps for the Headout. Leave the default opamp for the DAC section. I replaced my DAC with the LME9720HA and it seemed to affect the DC offset on the headphone out.


----------



## B-Dawk20

What is that affect in layman's terms?


----------



## Riverback

High DC offset can damage your phones in the long run


----------



## B-Dawk20

Oh wow...did the combo I chose have a low DC offset? I'm kinda worried now.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





riverback said:


> Note to self, when changing opamps for the Headout. Leave the default opamp for the DAC section. I replaced my DAC with the LME9720HA and it seemed to affect the DC offset on the headphone out.


 
  How so? What difference did you notice?


----------



## Riverback

I got around -160mV/channel with the LME9720HA.
   
  50mV/channel is enough to destroy headphones


----------



## ninjikiran

Only if your headphones are not capable of taking in a full 6w ;D.  Bragging aside,that could be one reason people detected a difference in sound when plugging an opamp into the dac.


----------



## ataller

I have an lme49720ha for both of the opamps. I assume they are the same as your lme9720has? Mine are the metal ones attached to dip8 connectors. 

Anyways, if you replace just the headphone opamp with the 9720 what dc offset are you getting?


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Only if your headphones are not capable of taking in a full 6w ;D.  Bragging aside,that could be one reason people detected a difference in sound when plugging an opamp into the dac.


 


  So do you recommend I just buy the LM4562 for the amp section and keep the DAC stock?


----------



## Bill Mac

Quote: 





sillysally said:


> Hi Bill, nice to see you here on Head-fi. Now I know where you are getting your idea's from.
> 
> ss


 

 Hi ss,
   
  Thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. I have not posted much since becoming a member. But I have found the members here to be very helpful and knowledgable. Who knows at my rate of upgradtis I could be buying the Realiser in the near future.
   
  Bill


----------



## B-Dawk20

Ordered my opamps today


----------



## sizzlincok

Just got my D1~! I have a bunch of tubes to roll! 
   
  I personally don't hear a difference between tubes on my AudioEngine A5's...


----------



## B-Dawk20

op amps came in, gonna plop em in soon. Got the LT1364CN8#PBF and LM4562NA/NOPB combo for the DAC and Amp. Here's hoping the apparently low DC offset holds true....or the gods hate me and make me the only person with issues lol.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Got my portapros plugged in to see if there are any issues or rather, if it kills them lol


----------



## uelover

@ B-Dawk20: Why do you doubt something that many other people had used over the past 2 years? The usage of LT1364CN8 and LM4562NA started from Zero DAC/Amp which is much earlier than Maverick D1. In any case D1 will sound bad for iems and low impedance highly sensitive headphones - my TF10 sounded much better from my mac headphone jack than from Maverick D1 headphone output.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





uelover said:


> @ B-Dawk20: Why do you doubt something that many other people had used over the past 2 years? The usage of LT1364CN8 and LM4562NA started from Zero DAC/Amp which is much earlier than Maverick D1. In any case D1 will sound bad for iems and low impedance highly sensitive headphones - my TF10 sounded much better from my mac headphone jack than from Maverick D1 headphone output.


 

  
  I'm not doubting...just pessimistic is all. I've never been one for good luck lol. I actually think it sounds pretty good with my AD700s though. I know no better mind you but I do know much worse heh. I just don't like getting my hopes up for much or things to go right. I think being a philly sports fan has banged that into my head over time. Realistically nothing should go wrong and after a few hours of listening, nothing is wrong. The bass is definitely better. More controlled and prevalent with my basslite ADs. I don't know if burn in is needed for op amps but I am satisfied with the purchase so far. I'll have to listen further in though.
   
  My real reason for the D1 though is to be able to have my future upgrades have a decent amp and DAC for them. I know the HD650s were used in testing and they are one of the cans I want to purchase one day so I'm happy about that. I also want a pair of M50's but I haven't heard anything of their compatibility with this amp. They aren't very sensitive though so I'd imagine they wouldn't suffer from that issue.
   
   
  But anyway, I wasn't trying to doubt anyone's info, I just don't have the most positive mindset sometimes.


----------



## Chris5488

I don't know if it has been posted earlier, but can't find the answer so here it is:
   
  I recently bought an iMac (the new 2011 version) and connected the Maverick to it by toslink.
  But I often hear a click coming from the Maverick, with some short static noise coming from the speakers or headphones.
  When I had Windows I heard it only when it booted, according to me it changes from frequency or 16/24bit.
  It's normal, but OSX apperently changes these settings depending on which which program makes the sound.
  Apperently there isn't 1 global output signal, is there a way lock the output signal to 24-bit 96khz like you can in Windows, so it doesn't change all the time resulting in that click and noise.
   
  Thanks


----------



## uelover

Don't think you can lock the output rate to certain value on Mac unless you use an external upsampling device or use USB output.
   
  The 'clicking' sound is on the Maverick D1 is normal.


----------



## -su

anyone can tell me how much power does D1 consume?
  I've been planning to buy a backup UPS for my audio setup,
  still counting the needed power and stuck with the D1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  can't find it on mav-audio.com either.
   
  TIA guys.


----------



## sizzlincok

Quote: 





-su said:


> anyone can tell me how much power does D1 consume?
> I've been planning to buy a backup UPS for my audio setup,
> still counting the needed power and stuck with the D1
> 
> ...


 
  I have one of those AC wattage usage monitors that you plug in, and it says the D1 is using, fluxuating between 11.6 - 12.1 watts idle or in use.
   
  I pushed the direct button to allow max volume to my amp, and it still shows the same reading.
   
  I've always wondered myself too haha.
  You're welcome.


----------



## -su

Quote: 





sizzlincok said:


> I have one of those AC wattage usage monitors that you plug in, and it says the D1 is using, fluxuating between 11.6 - 11.9 watts idle or in use.
> 
> I pushed the direct button to allow max volume to my amp, and it still shows the same reading.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Oh wow thanks for your reply bro 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Slightly surprising that such a product only consumes less than 20W right?
  Yeah but anyway, it's a headphone amp, not a speaker's


----------



## sizzlincok

Quote: 





-su said:


> Oh wow thanks for your reply bro
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Oh no no, I mean allow max volume to be passed to the outputs.
   
  Actually, I was watching Smallville Season 10 EP 20 last night, and mid way I checked the meter, and it showed 12.1 max. 
  Such a cliffhanger the episode was.


----------



## gadut

I try to have some simple mods on caps (panasonic,elna silmic,cerafine,nichicon fine gold,russia pio k-75) and telefunken diodes + opamp (LME49720HA+LT1384) & tube raytheon 5670

I hear that it's so much different with stock D1..so happy to have it modded


----------



## Riverback

Just to remind everyone that the Maverick D1 now only costs $199.
   
  Everyone at the FS forum should stop selling 2nd hand at retail price


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





riverback said:


> Just to remind everyone that the Maverick D1 now only costs $199.
> 
> Everyone at the FS forum should stop selling 2nd hand at retail price


 


  Wasn't it always like that for the basic version? The upgraded tube version still is $219 without shipping so I think the ones in the FS are still worth it as they're all upgraded with tubes and opamps


----------



## sizzlincok

Well that depends. Hasn't it been at $199 for the stock version for a long while now?
   
  There's not much Maverick Audio stuff being sold actually in FS forum.
   
  Even if there is, some come with expensive upgrades such as the WE396A tube, which is pretty much $40 for a NOS one.
   
  The D1's in the FS forum are within reason. I GUESS it pretty much depends on the condition of the unit and what it comes with.


----------



## _Spanky_

I'm selling my D1 and A1. Here's the listings if anyone's interested:
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/554756/maverick-audio-tubemagic-a1-hybrid-power-amp
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/549758/maverick-d1-tube-dac-teralink-x2-usb-transport-price-drop


----------



## NoEars

What whats the word on the next series of Maverick Audio? Been gone awhile, just looking for an update.


----------



## _Spanky_

3 months at the earliest.


----------



## NoEars

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> 3 months at the earliest.


 

 Excellent. And I'm hoping this is going to fix the... uh, I think it was a problem with the DAC not actually being about to do 24-bit? Gosh it's been so long I've nearly forgot why I was holding back. lol


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





noears said:


> Excellent. And I'm hoping this is going to fix the... uh, I think it was a problem with the DAC not actually being about to do 24-bit? Gosh it's been so long I've nearly forgot why I was holding back. lol


 

 The DAC can do 24bit/96khz.
   
  It is just that you will need Coaxial/Toslink input. Nothing to do with the DAC but it is the limitation of the USB interface.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





uelover said:


> The DAC can do 24bit/96khz.
> 
> It is just that you will need Coaxial/Toslink input. Nothing to do with the DAC but it is the limitation of the USB interface.


 
  Bingo. I think Ryan has definitely settled on the Tenor 24/96 USB chip so I'm sure it's safe to say that "feature" is set in stone. Anything else, who knows. D2 made it to pre-production but was recently sent back to the drawing board. The 3 month estimate is directly from Ryan himself.
   
  Here's my Dropbox folder for the D2:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/head-fi/mav_d2_condensed/index.html
  There's pictures and the beta forum post. Keep in mind, ANYTHING in there can change for the upcoming D2...


----------



## uelover

Wow BNC input. This is interesting. I like the new look too.
   
  I would hope that Ryan will soon release an A2 amp too.


----------



## sizzlincok

The D2 looks so fail though...
   
  3 opamps on a circuit that has 2 outputs? What?
  I would have expected the D2 to have a native USB of 24/192 already.
   
  For the aimed retail price of $300, there are definitely much better products out there.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





sizzlincok said:


> The D2 looks so fail though...
> 
> 3 opamps on a circuit that has 2 outputs? What?
> I would have expected the D2 to have a native USB of 24/192 already.
> ...


 


  I don't think it is correct to associate the number of outputs with the number of opamps used. Many single output preamp uses more than 1 opamp too (if they are opamp based)
   
  I don't see much DAC in that price bracket with USB that supports 24/192khz. Not even DAC that costs more than twice or thrice its price.
   
  Care to share some products?


----------



## Rawrbington

im seriously throwing around the idea of ordering the D1.  My cans are srh840s and 770 32 ohm; anybody used either with the D1?  im pretty much down to this thing, the fubar III and e7/e9.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





rawrbington said:


> im seriously throwing around the idea of ordering the D1.  My cans are srh840s and 770 32 ohm; anybody used either with the D1?  im pretty much down to this thing, the fubar III and e7/e9.


 


  If you want one, I have mine for sale along with the Teralink X2  I can't comment on the cans, I don't recall seeing many other people use that combination.


----------



## sizzlincok

Quote: 





uelover said:


> I don't think it is correct to associate the number of outputs with the number of opamps used. Many single output preamp uses more than 1 opamp too (if they are opamp based)
> 
> I don't see much DAC in that price bracket with USB that supports 24/192khz. Not even DAC that costs more than twice or thrice its price.
> 
> Care to share some products?


 

 Well, 3 opamps on such a "pure dac" doesn't seem like the best choice.
  I have no idea how 3 opamps would contribute more to the audio quality than a dedicated circuit with no opamps or 1 opamp.
   
  The Musiland Monitor 02 US is a USB only DAC that supports 24/192. It goes for $125 USD on eBay. 
  You can use it as a pure transport as well, as it has digital optical/coax out, as well as analog RCA out.
  WAY cheaper than the D2 for $300.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





sizzlincok said:


> Well, 3 opamps on such a "pure dac" doesn't seem like the best choice.
> I have no idea how 3 opamps would contribute more to the audio quality than a dedicated circuit with no opamps or 1 opamp.
> 
> The Musiland Monitor 02 US is a USB only DAC that supports 24/192. It goes for $125 USD on eBay.
> ...


 


 The opamps' primary job is amplify the line audio signal when they leave the DAC towards the Amp. How they affect the sound is another story altogether. I am sure Ryan has a reason why he is using 3 of them.
   
  Ok for Musiland Monitor 02. But I will not want to be tormented by drivers in order to have it worked and faces future compatibility issues should Musiland stop releasing driver updates for newer windows.
   
  I don't see how 24bit/96khz can be a deal breaker considering the numbers of 192khz recordings out there. Even with 16bits/44khz (which most of our albums are) D1 sounded better than many other DAC in that price range. Further, it satisfies those who love tubey sound.
   
  With that said, the headamp section really didn't do the DAC on D1 justice and I am sure that could be one of the reason that make many people think that D1 is not so good.
   
  I find the D1, with a good tube, performed real good when compared to my StageDAC. I can't fault it at all.
   
  This is why D2 has got me excited =)


----------



## sizzlincok

I guess everyone has their own reasons! Well 3 opamps in the D2, so much amplification isn't all that good in some cases. I guess we'll see until the D2 is released what it's actually for haha.
  Well I'm not as much as an audiophile as you uelover, so I wouldn't know if the D1 sounded as good as others! Also, I'm not a headphone guy haha.
   
  As for the Musiland 02, the drivers actually WORK fine now.
  I have no problems with the drivers at ALL.
   
  They have latest driver releases for Win7 64bit too. Now their newest driver was only released in January 2011.
  I'm pretty sure until Musiland makes any more changes, their drivers will stay as is now. Or until windows come with a new OS, Musiland will have to make new drivers. 
  From the looks of their driver's dates, it's actually pretty progressive IMO.
   
  I'm just saying, for $125, you can have a 24/192 transport! =P


----------



## HiFidelity

Hi All.
   
  Quick question. Can the D1 drive power hungry headphones e.g. HiFiMan HE 5 LE? I'm thinking of getting the HiFiMan cans and not sure whether I need to reconfigure my current setup to suit? Sounds like an expensive gesture.
   
  Thanks in adv.
  HF


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





hifidelity said:


> Hi All.
> 
> Quick question. Can the D1 drive power hungry headphones e.g. HiFiMan HE 5 LE? I'm thinking of getting the HiFiMan cans and not sure whether I need to reconfigure my current setup to suit? Sounds like an expensive gesture.
> 
> ...


 

 According to the specs online it can handle 600 ohm headphones. I've never tried anything above my 55ohm K240s though.


----------



## NoEars

Ohh. So the D2 is going to be priced around $300? Hmm. That extra 100 changes a few things. There are many other options for $300. I had thought the d1 an awesome deal for 200, but held back because of the Bit limitation of the USB. However, if it's going to cost another 100 clams to not have the problem... Meh. Am I the only person that feels this way?


----------



## _Spanky_

NoEars, don't count on it. That info is months and months old. I think the whole thing was tossed out the window. Who knows what features the real D2 will have and at what price point. I've been pretty satisfied with the Teralink X2 transport (for 96/24 out of USB) and D1 but it's time for me to move on and experience other audio.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





noears said:


> Ohh. So the D2 is going to be priced around $300? Hmm. That extra 100 changes a few things. There are many other options for $300. I had thought the d1 an awesome deal for 200, but held back because of the Bit limitation of the USB. However, if it's going to cost another 100 clams to not have the problem... Meh. Am I the only person that feels this way?


 


  Don't let the USB limitation turn you away from the D1. It has excellent sound quality. What else can you get for $200 that is a DAC, headphone amp, pre amp, and tube pre amp with awesome sound quality? It might not be the best out there but for it's price it is an excellent jack of all trades. Plus, if you use optical or coax you'll get the 24/96 encoding.
   
  I'd start with this unit and if you decide you need better sell it and get a better unit. I can honestly say that I'm satisfied with it and probably won't upgrade for a while if decide to upgrade at all, I see no need at the moment.
   
  I've got it hooked up as a tube pre amp to my NAD receiver that I recently acquired from a fellow Head-Fier. Blasting Rammstein never sounded so good.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





tequilasunriser said:


> Don't let the USB limitation turn you away from the D1. It has excellent sound quality. What else can you get for $200 that is a DAC, headphone amp, pre amp, and tube pre amp with awesome sound quality? It might not be the best out there but for it's price it is an excellent jack of all trades. Plus, if you use optical or coax you'll get the 24/96 encoding.


 

 QFT.
   
  Shameless plug: Mine is still for sale, I'll be listing it on eBay on Sunday though.


----------



## Killbox

Is the D1 a good dac? I'm planning on getting a DAC for my headamp (Heed CanAmp) and my Nad speaker amp. Having problem deciding between this and Beresford.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





killbox said:


> Is the D1 a good dac? I'm planning on getting a DAC for my headamp (Heed CanAmp) and my Nad speaker amp. Having problem deciding between this and Beresford.


 


  D1 is a good DAC. Just get the tube upgraded to GE 5670 and you are safe.
   
  Oh and one thing, don't use D1's preamp.


----------



## Killbox

But the tubes are not used for "dac work" ? that's just for the amp part ?  I'm only gonna use it for dac.


----------



## reiserFS

There's an output labeled "Tube out" which uses the tube in the D1 as a buffer and a normal direct line level DAC only output.
  
  Quote: 





killbox said:


> But the tubes are not used for "dac work" ? that's just for the amp part ?  I'm only gonna use it for dac.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





killbox said:


> But the tubes are not used for "dac work" ? that's just for the amp part ?  I'm only gonna use it for dac.


 


  No, the tube isn't used for the amp section. You have 2 choices for DAC output, solid state and tube. If you're going to use the D1 strictly as a DAC, I think there's better choices. But, if you like the tube or will use it as a headphone amp or if you like the flexibility and features, it's a nice unit all around.


----------



## Killbox

Ok, then this may not be the thing for me. I've allready purchased a Heed CanAmp that will be paired with my AKG Q701, so I only need a dac.  Maybe the Beresford is a better option. 
   
  Do you have other suggestions?


----------



## _Spanky_

Well to be fair, I don't think you're going to find a DAC with tube flavor for as cheap as the D1. If you're going to use the DAC only, that's really the only advantage it has. You can wait 3 months or so for the D2 or check out what Audio-GD has to offer.


----------



## SteveNZ

I hope he decides against using blue LEDs on the D2. They are inevitably too bright and IMHO tend to be representative of gimmicky products.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





stevenz said:


> I hope he decides against using blue LEDs on the D2. They are inevitably too bright and IMHO tend to be representative of gimmicky products.


 


  There are lots of companies using these leds, I can assure you it's not a representative of gimmicky products 
  And btw he already used less bright blue leds in his A1


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





stevenz said:


> I hope he decides against using blue LEDs on the D2. They are inevitably too bright and IMHO tend to be representative of gimmicky products.


 


  The newer D1 has a much dimmer blue LEDs than the earlier batches. It is so dim that I don't know if its on or off under normal room lighting.


----------



## reiserFS

You can solder a resistor to it to dim it a bit, did that to my unit back then and it worked flawlessly.
  
  Quote: 





stevenz said:


> I hope he decides against using blue LEDs on the D2. They are inevitably too bright and IMHO tend to be representative of gimmicky products.


----------



## sizzlincok

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> There are lots of companies using these leds, I can assure you it's not a representative of gimmicky products
> And btw he already used less bright blue leds in his A1


 

 Yah. I noticed that the A1 has a slightly dimmer LED than my D1.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

The LED on my D1 (version 3) is really dim. Can't see how anyone could complain about it.


----------



## Riverback

Most likely cost cutting, since blue LEDs are the most expensive kind. 3x the price of a red iirc


----------



## SteveNZ

I've got a v2 D1 and it's pretty bright, I've put some tape over it and it's ok.
   
  I would've thought the novelty of blue LEDs being "new and exciting" would've worn off by now. What's wrong with good old red?  
   
  Maybe it's just a personal thing, I can disregard most colours of LED, but I find the blue ones too hard not to notice so I find them distracting, particularly if they're almost right in front of me. If Ryan is already using dimmer ones than my v2 has then that's "a good thing".
   
  Perhaps I shouldn't be such a picky bugger.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





stevenz said:


> I've got a v2 D1 and it's pretty bright, I've put some tape over it and it's ok.
> 
> I would've thought the novelty of blue LEDs being "new and exciting" would've worn off by now. What's wrong with good old red?
> 
> ...


 


  Haha I am one who really likes blue LED. I guess it depends on your room furnishing also. If its all woody, then red/orange will be great.


----------



## Ultrainferno

My main amp has 2 dim green leds placed on top of the amp, they don't disturb at all. the blue never disturbed me either. It's just a led, it's more important how the amp sounds


----------



## milosolo

I've had my D1 with GE 5670 tube upgrade for about a month now. I did the LM4562 and LT1364 opamp upgrade right out of the box. I'm waiting for the Western Electric 396A/2C51 tube upgrade to show up in the mail. In the end I'll have about $285 into it. It's setup in my main system so the blue led fits right in with the other gear leds. In general I like the tube sound more than SS so I don't even use the SS out.
   
  I'm using the line in on the D1 with the headphone out on my iPod (all files are flac) which makes a stunning improvement to SQ when compared to the iPod RCA dock input. I'm really happy with the function and features of this unit. It has plenty of headroom for my HD650's. I would probably need to spend > $1k to improve on the D1 so it is a great value as far as I'm concerned.


----------



## Ultrainferno

LOD to RCA should give you an even better sound


----------



## milosolo

Yes indeed! But... My turntable is plugged into the RCA input! ...Audio bliss!


----------



## sizzlincok

^ LOD to RCA to 3.5mm, or 1/4".


----------



## Tequilasunriser

So, I have my D1 hooked up to my PC by optical from my ASUS Xonar sound card. I noticed that if I mess with the software EQ it translates to the audio my speakers and cans pump out. This means that my sound card is doing the audio processing, so where does this leave my D1? Is the D1 post processing the sound after my sound card is processing it? Is there a way to bypass the sound card completely and just have the data sent through the optical cable directly to the D1?
   
  I did notice a difference placing the D1 into my chain of devices so it's not like it's doing nothing at the moment, it has absolutely added life to the music. Music sounds MUCH better with the D1 in there doing its thing, but I'd like to leave the sound card out completely if possible (w/o using USB), or is it already set up that way and the software EQ has nothing to do with the Xonar processing the audio?
   
  If it's not broke don't fix it?
   
  I hope that makes sense, I can see how it might be confusing.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





tequilasunriser said:


> So, I have my D1 hooked up to my PC by optical from my ASUS Xonar sound card. I noticed that if I mess with the software EQ it translates to the audio my speakers and cans pump out. This means that my sound card is doing the audio processing, so where does this leave my D1? Is the D1 post processing the sound after my sound card is processing it? Is there a way to bypass the sound card completely and just have the data sent through the optical cable directly to the D1?
> 
> I did notice a difference placing the D1 into my chain of devices so it's not like it's doing nothing at the moment, it has absolutely added life to the music. Music sounds MUCH better with the D1 in there doing its thing, but I'd like to leave the sound card out completely if possible (w/o using USB), or is it already set up that way and the software EQ has nothing to do with the Xonar processing the audio?
> 
> ...


 

  
  What your software does is digital sound processing. It is not hardware sound processing and your xonar is not doing anything. It is just like how you can still EQ your songs in iTunes no matter what DAC you are using.
   
  Your PC outputs the raw digital data via Xonar for analogue conversion at D1. Nothing has changed. You are only changing that raw digital data being outputted by your PC.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Excellent, thank you.
   
  Guess that explains the huge leap in quality.


----------



## mab1376

Does anyone know of some sort of switchbox for multiple RCA inputs for use with this?


----------



## Riverback

Check your local Audio-Visual Electronics store for one of these

   
  I think they're called an RCA System Selector?
   
  Quote: 





mab1376 said:


> Does anyone know of some sort of switchbox for multiple RCA inputs for use with this?


----------



## -su

I've been using AV source selector for these several months also...
  It's definitely effective way to feed your D1 output to multiple devices and also give advantage for your single input amps.
   
  Mine has 4 inputs and 2 outputs, it is supposed to multiply video signal also, but I left the yellow unused.
  Been using the inputs to take signal from D1 tube and SS out, a mini-to-RCA for direct DAP, and preout from my LD MKIII.
  Attach the outputs to my Bravo amp and DIY GC.
  Something looks like this (the selector on pics only got one output tho):
   



  Or you can also use a simple splitter like this (I use a gold plated one to split the tube pre-out to the RCA selector and direct to my LD MKIII):


----------



## attenuated 3db

I sold my Maverick D1 a couple of months ago, but for anybody who is using the USB input on their D1, the device for sale in my signature did more to improve my D1 sound quality than all of the tube and op-amp rolling I did put together.  The USB input of the D1 is its one really weak point, but if you use something like the Teralink X2 to go between your computer and the D1's S/PDIF inputs (I used coax), you can a huge boost in clarity, detail and lower noise for not much money.  Just FYI from a previous D1 owner.


----------



## ninjikiran

The output splitter is better imo than the switch if its only two output devices.  Much better than a device that can unintentionally effect the signal quality, at the same time signal strength.  If its powered than its going through an extra op-amp of sorts.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





attenuated 3db said:


> I sold my Maverick D1 a couple of months ago, but for anybody who is using the USB input on their D1, the device for sale in my signature did more to improve my D1 sound quality than all of the tube and op-amp rolling I did put together.  The USB input of the D1 is its one really weak point, but if you use something like the Teralink X2 to go between your computer and the D1's S/PDIF inputs (I used coax), you can a huge boost in clarity, detail and lower noise for not much money.  Just FYI from a previous D1 owner.


 

 I don't know that I agree with the sound quality point, the opamp upgrades were really great. But I completely agree with the USB being the weak point. I am glad I spent almost $80 for the Teralink X2 I bought. It was worth every penny. In my case, it got rid of USB noise and ensured bit-perfect output. Having a proper transport means a lot.


----------



## atwoodt

I just got my D1 back from Joseph Chow at Audio Horizons. Here is what was done:

 Replace 4 power rectifier didoes to Fred diodes.
 Replace power switch internal wiring to Hi Q wires.
 Replace 2 electrolytic cap and 2 Wima output coupling cap to 2 of Philips polypropylene cap 4.7uF
 Replace 2 of bundle internal wiring to Hi Q wires.
 Replace volume pot to Alps blue, relocation control relay, diodes, resistor, bundle wire, enlarge mounting hole
   
  I installed a large 30mm Brass Volume Pot on the Alps from PartsConnexion. Looks very nice and fit the shaft and D1 exactly.
   
  Previously I had swapped the two opamps to the ones that seem to be most popular.
   
  Sounds marvelous with tube out, haven't played with the headphone section yet. I'll post some  pics soon.
   
  Anyone have any updates on the D2? Spanky? I heard from Ryan a little bit ago that it's on track for September or so...


----------



## Riverback

Has anyone tried the JAN or Sylvania tubes with the D1?


----------



## Tequilasunriser

I Have a GE JAN in mine now. Sounds good.
   
  I have have a Sylvania too but I've never tried in in my D1. Tube placement is awkward and _seems_ fragile when pulling and replacing tubes so I haven't experimented much with tube rolling.
  
  Quote: 





riverback said:


> Has anyone tried the JAN or Sylvania tubes with the D1?


----------



## kswa1987

First off, Thanks very much for putting this thread together and providing all of the great information for potential purchasers!
   
  I think, after thoroughly reading this entire thread, that I'm about ready to purchase my D1 and some OpAmp upgrades for great sound on day 1.
   
  My setup will be iMac --> Toslink --> D1 --> AKG K702s
   
  I think I am going to go with the LM4562 OpAmp upgrade for the headphone portion.  Although at some point in the future I do intend on getting an A1 or similar amplifier, for the time being I will be driving my K702s with the D1.  In a setup like this, my understanding is that I will ONLY need to upgrade the OpAmp in the U6 part of the board (the headphone amp section) and any Tube or DAC OpAmp upgrades will be unnecessary?  
   
  There is conflicting information in this thread on that issue.  I would think that the DAC's OpAmp would be utilized no matter what output you are using, but that may not be the case (I'm no expert, just spent a lot of time reading this thread).  If so, would a OPA627 "Superchip" be a good choice?  (I have heard that the OpAmp section is too small to do two OPA627s with a 2-1 converter, anyone have personal experience with this?)
   
  Lastly, is this a good retailer for the OpAmps in question (for US purchasers)?  www.audiophileproducts.com/opamps
   
  Thanks again to everyone that put in work making this a great thread, I am very excited to upgrade my listening experience.
   
  Small Edit:  Any further info on the D2?  Think it'd be worth waiting for?


----------



## ounwx

Hey guys,

 For my computer audio, I'm currently running the following equipment connected to my onboard sound:

 *Grado SR80i's
 *Klipsch B2 bookshelf speakers, powered by a cheap T-amp on my desk

 My onboard audio doesn't sound bad, per se. However, it occasionally pops and clicks, which is beginning to grate on me. Also, the front-jack headphone port on my tower's case has quite a bit of background noise.

 I've decided that I'd like to find some sort of external solution, rather than an internal sound card, to bypass my onboard sound. While searching for reasonably-priced options (under $200) that would easily handle both my speakers and cans, I came across this unit, which looks very attractive and convenient for my purposes.

 So, just a few questions for current or previous owners:

 1. Does it provide a noticeable improvement over your onboard audio?

 2. Does the volume knob affect output from the line-out, or only the headphone amp?

 3. Does the headphone amp work well with low-impedence cans like Grados (32 Ohms)?

 4. Have you tried any comparable units in the sub-$200 range that might suit my needs just as well, while saving some cash? I've been eyeing the Fiio E7 for about half the price, but it has several distinct disadvantages and mixed reviews on sound quality. (I know $200 doesn't seem like much to spend on this, but given my speakers and headphones aren't exactly top-of-the-line themselves, I figure splurging on a DAC isn't necessarily the most efficient move).


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





kswa1987 said:


> In a setup like this, my understanding is that I will ONLY need to upgrade the OpAmp in the U6 part of the board (the headphone amp section) and any Tube or DAC OpAmp upgrades will be unnecessary?
> 
> There is conflicting information in this thread on that issue.  I would think that the DAC's OpAmp would be utilized no matter what output you are using, but that may not be the case (I'm no expert, just spent a lot of time reading this thread).  If so, would a OPA627 "Superchip" be a good choice?  (I have heard that the OpAmp section is too small to do two OPA627s with a 2-1 converter, anyone have personal experience with this?)
> 
> ...


 

 From what I understand the DAC opamp and tubes are reserved for the preamp sections; one being a tube preamp and the other being solid state, so, yes, they are separate from the headphone section.
   
  Not sure about OPA627 as I've never used it, nor any 2-1 converters, but I must admit that I'm curious now. I took a look at the site you linked and that dual channel adapter sure does look cool.
   
  I've gotten my opamps from digikey in the U.S. their prices are very fair. I paid only a few dollars for 2 opamps and they arrived promptly in a well padded envelope inside sturdy plastic tubes. Their site is a bit difficult to navigate, but they are trusted. The site you linked is much more expensive than digikey, so if you don't mind navigating the site the end transaction is worth it.
   
  Spanky posted some info about the D2. I am not at all impressed with what I saw and am glad I went with the D1. It has far less functionality than the D1. The D2 is simply a DAC while the D1 is a DAC, preamp, and headphone amp.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





ounwx said:


> 1. Does it provide a noticeable improvement over your onboard audio?
> 
> 2. Does the volume knob affect output from the line-out, or only the headphone amp?
> 
> ...


 

 1. Yes, but you'll notice it depends more on the sample rates and bit rates and the overall quality of the file/source.
   
  2. The volume knob can affect the line outs if the D1 is being used as a preamp. The "direct" button bypasses or enables the volume knob for the line outs.
   
  3. Yes, I use Koss Portapros (unknown low impedance), Sennheiser HD555s (32 Ohm), and AKG K240s (55 Ohm) all with great success.
   
  4. I have not tried another unit, so I have no basis for comparison, but for it's price and its features the D1 is hard to pass up. Besides, the demand for the D1 is high enough that if you decide to experiment with other DACs and decide you want to sell your D1 you'll still get some decent coin for your unit.


----------



## kswa1987

tequilasunriser said:


> I've gotten my opamps from digikey in the U.S. their prices are very fair. I paid only a few dollars for 2 opamps and they arrived promptly in a well padded envelope inside sturdy plastic tubes. Their site is a bit difficult to navigate, but they are trusted. The site you linked is much more expensive than digikey, so if you don't mind navigating the site the end transaction is worth it.




thanks for the info... I found several versions on digikey. My initial guess is to go with the NA model with the 8DIP connection but I think I remember reading something about the HA model with the metal can. think there's any tangible difference there? there is certainly a difference in price (~$3 for the 8DIP and ~$19 for the metal can)


----------



## donunus

Quote: 





uelover said:


> D1 is a good DAC. Just get the tube upgraded to GE 5670 and you are safe.
> 
> Oh and one thing, don't use D1's preamp.


 
  Whats wrong with the D1's preamp?


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





kswa1987 said:


> thanks for the info... I found several versions on digikey. My initial guess is to go with the NA model with the 8DIP connection but I think I remember reading something about the HA model with the metal can. think there's any tangible difference there? there is certainly a difference in price (~$3 for the 8DIP and ~$19 for the metal can)


 

 Your guess is correct. 8dip is what you need.
   
  Some people prefer the metal can because it is said to shield the opamp from interference. I've never tried the metal can, but I've also never noticed any interference that needed shielding either.


----------



## Riverback

I think he means not to use it as a preamp. The volume pot in the D1 isn't the best, Preferably use it with the Direct button engaged
  
  Quote: 





donunus said:


> Whats wrong with the D1's preamp?


----------



## donunus

The reason I asked this was because a friend of mine is getting one soon to use as a dac/preamp for his speaker based system. If it is not good as a preamp, he still has his adcom but we were hoping that it would actually serve as a fun alternative to it.


----------



## Riverback

Its ok as a direct line-out. Its just the volume pot and the direct button becomes a bit dodgy at times so I just use the volume pot on the speakers


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Yeah, I actually haven't tried using the D1 as a preamp yet. I currently have it hooked into the aux input on my NAD receiver's built in preamp.
   
  Maybe tomorrow I'll bypass the NAD's preamp and try the D1 in it's place and give you my impressions.


----------



## donunus

That would be very valuable information! Thanks. The cool thing about this unit is that it seems to be tuneable as a preamp when you change the tubes. Hopefully the analog section is already good enough.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





donunus said:


> That would be very valuable information! Thanks. The cool thing about this unit is that it seems to be tuneable as a preamp when you change the tubes. Hopefully the analog section is already good enough.


 


  Not to mention if you don't like the tube out's flavor after tube rolling you can always use the solid state out, and if you don't like the flavor of that you can change the opamp and opamp roll. 
   
  Quite a bit of versatility indeed.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Well, I tried using the D1 as a preamp but the test was inconclusive.
   
  For some reason my receiver makes a LOUD (woofer shattering loud) low frequency hum when the D1 in plugged into the main-in on the receiver. Even when the D1 is off it makes that hum.
   
  I don't believe it's the D1's fault, it's likely the receiver, but even with the receiver's own built in preamp hooked up it is whisper quiet. it is also quiet when nothing is plugged in at all.
   
  Not sure what the problem could be.


----------



## donunus

Oh no, thats probably faulty wiring somewhere either in the receivers preamp in or the cables or the d1s preamp out.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

I dunno. Like I said, it did it when the unit was completely powered of too. I have a feeling it has something to do with the receiver.
   
  Only time will tell.  I'll have to do some trouble shooting.


----------



## donunus

Try plugging it into something else with the power off


----------



## Tequilasunriser

I have a separate tube headphone amp (Qinpu Q2) that the D1 is plugged into, works fine.
   
  It has to be something with the receiver. Hmm


----------



## donunus

Wait aren't you using a different output towards the tube amp? You would be using a line level output to that wouldn't you? while you would need to use the variable level preamp out to go in the preamp input of the receiver.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

I use the solid state out towards the tube amp, and I send my tube out to the NAD's preamp, but I wanted to bypass the NAD's preamp with the D1 ( to use the D1 as the preamp), however, the power amp section of the NAD just wasn't having it.
   
  I tried both outs, tube and solid state (thinking maybe the tube in the D1 was messed up), still no go. :/


----------



## donunus

oh ok so i guess it might have something to do with the nad


----------



## talla242

new to this excellent forum,after doing tons of reading about this little gadget "Maverick T-Magic" i placed my order yesterday,this will be my first DAC,so i'm pretty excited,now to the inevitable question,i'm going to be using this as a dac for my squeezebox duet and denon 1940ci sacd/cd player only,now after reading someone stated that the analog ins on the dac will only pass the denon analog to my onkyo tx608 receiver right? no tube warmth or processing? so i need to use the digital out on my denon for sacd,cd playing is this correct? many thanks!


----------



## ounwx

I have a couple more questions of my own:
   
  1. Does plugging in headphones automatically silence the rear outputs, or can both play concurrently?
   
  2. In USB mode, is this plug-and-play in Win 7 x64, or are proprietary drivers required in order for it to be recognized by the OS? Also, how does the OS volume control interact with the unit? (e.g., is it fixed at 100% for bit-perfect output or left for the user to handle?)


----------



## Riverback

1. Both play concurrently
   
  2. USB is plug and play. Windows already has drivers for it. Volume can be adjusted, if you want it fixed for bit-perfect use WASAPI


----------



## Dat bass

I plan to buy this wonderful looking DAC, but I have a question. I plan to have this connected to my motherboard's optical output but I'm about confused about the default  sample rate. I know most of this will be used for music and some gaming. Should I just leave it at 16bit 48000hz or does it change/adapts on the audio file source? Yes I'm a huge newbie when it comes to these things.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

^ I'd actually like to know more about that as well.
   
  I was under the impression that when connected to optical the D1 receives raw data from the computer and that the D1's DAC is the device that decides the bit rate and sample rate from the source file. I may be wrong though. Clarification is definitely needed!


----------



## milosolo

This is exactly how I have my D1 connected into my main system. I have Rotel separates but I have never tried going straight into the amp from the D1.  
  
  Quote: 





tequilasunriser said:


> I use the solid state out towards the tube amp, and I send my tube out to the NAD's preamp, but I wanted to bypass the NAD's preamp with the D1 ( to use the D1 as the preamp), however, the power amp section of the NAD just wasn't having it.
> 
> I tried both outs, tube and solid state (thinking maybe the tube in the D1 was messed up), still no go. :/


----------



## talla242

ok i just received my d1dac,i have to say thanks to the mav company for making an affordable dac,this thing has made my squeezebox duet shine,my flac rip of fleetwood mac's tango WG is absolutely stunning using the tube out,and this gets better with burn in?very happy guy here,thanks again!


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





milosolo said:


> This is exactly how I have my D1 connected into my main system. I have Rotel separates but I have never tried going straight into the amp from the D1.


 

 Try it and tell us about your experience! Use the D1 as your preamp.


----------



## normalwrong

For the OPA627, theres got lots of difference version of ebay like OPA627AU OPA627BP..
  which one should i get..


----------



## kswa1987

Quote: 





normalwrong said:


> For the OPA627, theres got lots of difference version of ebay like OPA627AU OPA627BP..
> which one should i get..


 


  You'll want the OPA627AP, I believe.  But the OPA627 is a single channel OpAmp so you'll need two of them and an 2to1 adapter.  This website I found sells an OPA627 "super chip" that combines 2 (hopefully) genuine OPA627s on one chip.  I don't think the D1 has a space issue in the U5 slot (the DAC's OpAmp) so you should be able to go about it either way.  Just make sure it has an 8DIP connector.
   
  DigiKey has great prices, thats where I got my LM4652 OpAmp.  I'm interested in getting a super chip myself from this website ($37): http://www.audiophileproducts.com/opamps  Certainly looks like a good deal considering on DigiKey you'd have to buy two OPA627s for $24.50 a pop.


----------



## donunus

Anyone successful in trying these as a preamp yet?


----------



## Riverback

Jeffrey from TamAudio sells them for cheap
  http://tamaudio.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=39_46&product_id=80
   
  The different opamp versions should sound the same. They're just different packages for different applications
  
  Quote: 





kswa1987 said:


> You'll want the OPA627AP, I believe.  But the OPA627 is a single channel OpAmp so you'll need two of them and an 2to1 adapter.  This website I found sells an OPA627 "super chip" that combines 2 (hopefully) genuine OPA627s on one chip.  I don't think the D1 has a space issue in the U5 slot (the DAC's OpAmp) so you should be able to go about it either way.  Just make sure it has an 8DIP connector.
> 
> DigiKey has great prices, thats where I got my LM4652 OpAmp.  I'm interested in getting a super chip myself from this website ($37): http://www.audiophileproducts.com/opamps  Certainly looks like a good deal considering on DigiKey you'd have to buy two OPA627s for $24.50 a pop.


----------



## ounwx

Just received my D1 this Monday as a replacement for my onboard audio. I like its looks, size, build quality, and certainly the sound as well. It's not necessarily leaps and bounds better-sounding than my Realtek analog out, but it's enough to notice at times.
   
  Unfortunately, I have one nagging issue. Using both USB and S/PDIF (coax), I get a popping noise when switching manually between tracks in foobar2000. It's almost like the DAC can't handle abrupt changes in the incoming waveform without popping (I think I might have noticed the popping *within* songs that go straight from silence to loudness on one or two occasions). My onboard audio did not do this. The popping noise is not particularly loud (one other guy described a noise that he was afraid would damage his speakers; this isn't that bad, just annoying more than anything). Is this normal, or reason to consider sending it back for repair?


----------



## SurfWax

I saw on the first page that it says anything through USB gets downgraded to 16/48. Is this still true?


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





surfwax said:


> I saw on the first page that it says anything through USB gets downgraded to 16/48. Is this still true?


 


 Still true.


----------



## SurfWax

Whack. Thank you though. I still think I'll get this at the end of the month...I don't see anything else better for the price/options.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





surfwax said:


> Whack. Thank you though. I still think I'll get this at the end of the month...I don't see anything else better for the price/options.


 

  
  Why would you need anything above 16bits/48khz??
   
  All the musics I listen to are still 16bits/44khz.


----------



## SurfWax

I wanted to get into hi-rez music and be capable of playing it back, 24/96 is what I'm looking for. But I'll probably still get this.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





surfwax said:


> I wanted to get into hi-rez music and be capable of playing it back, 24/96 is what I'm looking for. But I'll probably still get this.


 

 Just get a USB/Coax converter next time and you can get your 24/96 into D1.


----------



## SurfWax

Yes thank you, I've considered that but I'd rather avoid having to buy another thing.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





surfwax said:


> Yes thank you, I've considered that but I'd rather avoid having to buy another thing.


 


  As long as your PC's motherboard has optical or coax out you'll get 24/96. USB is most convenient but it still possible without it.
   
  I have an optical cable running from my PC's sound card to my D1 and it sounds great.


----------



## petercintn

Quote: 





riverback said:


> Jeffrey from TamAudio sells them for cheap
> http://tamaudio.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=39_46&product_id=80
> 
> The different opamp versions should sound the same. They're just different packages for different applications


 


 I've had my D1 for about 4 months now and I have a opa627 from Tam's, a LM4652, a opa209, the LME4972 and a opa1611.  I've replaced the tube with a cheap Raytheon 5670 and have it paired with the opa1611.  I think the 1611 blows the 627 out of the water, at least with this tube in this dac for me.  The 1611 has better extension in both directions, has better details.  The 627 may have a bit more punch, but I may just be trying to find some redeeming factor in the 627 cause I'm even liking the LM4652 better and I find it muddled compaired to the prestine sound of the 1611.  I had a opa827 but it failed with my old Forte, but I liked it the best in the sound card.  Need to get another.  The 1611 and the 827 are cheaper than the 627 also.


----------



## kswa1987

got my OPA627s from Tam Audio... going to replace the DAC opamp for sure, but just out of curiosity (and seeing as how I had to buy 2 dual-channel OPA627s to get free shipping) is it possible / wise to try out the OPA627 in the headphone opamp section?  Currently have an LM4562 in that opamp slot, which I love, but hey-- its fun to swap these things and play around with it a bit.
   
  So basically, I know that the OPA627 is highly thought of as one of the best opamps for the DAC portion, but has anyone tried (or know if it is safe) using it in the headphone opamp section?


----------



## uelover

Yup it is safe for the headphone section. =)


----------



## MrJurre

Guys, can you install a subwoofer directly through RCA cables to the Maverick D1? I didn't see any SUB out on the device.


----------



## petercintn

Quote: 





mrjurre said:


> Guys, can you install a subwoofer directly through RCA cables to the Maverick D1? I didn't see any SUB out on the device.


 


  Not sure if this will answer your question but I think I understand it, I have the tube out going to 5.1 front inputs on my receiver so I bypass the receiver's dacs and since my receiver only has a low freq output to the sub (one rca cable to the sub) I have spliced the left and right output of the SS together to input to the receiver's LFE input.  I'm sure you could use just the left or right and be fine though.  Or if your sub has left and right inputs your in like flinn. One of the benifits of having two outputs, a mini pre-amp.
   
  Hope this helps.


----------



## MrJurre

Quote: 





petercintn said:


> Not sure if this will answer your question but I think I understand it, I have the tube out going to 5.1 front inputs on my receiver so I bypass the receiver's dacs and since my receiver only has a low freq output to the sub (one rca cable to the sub) I have spliced the left and right output of the SS together to input to the receiver's LFE input.  I'm sure you could use just the left or right and be fine though.  Or if your sub has left and right inputs your in like flinn. One of the benifits of having two outputs, a mini pre-amp.
> 
> Hope this helps.


 

 Thanks for the help!
  Though since i´m pretty nooby i don´t understand everything about it:S
  My problem is that i want to connect my record player (which has 2 rca cables hanging out so i have to connect those to the analog inputs) and i want to connect my laptop which i'll have to connect through the USB. 
  So i got 2 receivers, my record player and my Laptop (if those are actually receivers, wasn't to sure about what a receiver was :S) and i wanted this Maverick D1 just to connect my speakers and my subwoofer to the D1 and be able to use both my laptop and record player on it. 
  So would you have any idea on  how to do that?
   
  Some information:
  I got a canton passive subwoofer with a left and right low level input.
  and no speakers so far.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





mrjurre said:


> So i got 2 receivers, my record player and my Laptop (if those are actually receivers, wasn't to sure about what a receiver was :S) and i wanted this Maverick D1 just to connect my speakers and my subwoofer to the D1 and be able to use both my laptop and record player on it.
> So would you have any idea on  how to do that?
> 
> Some information:
> ...


 
   
  Record player and laptop are not receivers. They are simply equipments that plays your recordings, aka audio player.

 Maverick D1 is designed to be hooked up to an amplifier (be it speaker or headphone)
   
  If you are running on passive speakers and subwoofer, you will need an amplifier to power them. There is no way you can hook an RCA cable to a passive speaker/subwoofer.


----------



## MrJurre

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Record player and laptop are not receivers. They are simply equipments that plays your recordings, aka audio player.
> 
> Maverick D1 is designed to be hooked up to an amplifier (be it speaker or headphone)
> 
> If you are running on passive speakers and subwoofer, you will need an amplifier to power them. There is no way you can hook an RCA cable to a passive speaker/subwoofer.


 


  Owh wait i messed active and passive up, sorry :S.. I've actually got an active subwoofer.. I know this since it says powered subwoofer on the back.. Bleh


----------



## paconavarro

I received my D1 3 days ago, Im part of the family now... 
  Still need some time to break in, but so far Im liking what I listen... the tube pre-amp makes the mids on my DT990 really shine


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





mrjurre said:


> Owh wait i messed active and passive up, sorry :S.. I've actually got an active subwoofer.. I know this since it says powered subwoofer on the back.. Bleh


 


  Active subs are hooked to either your Amplifier/Receivers or your Active Speakers via an RCA cable.
   
  You don't hook them to a DAC.


----------



## MrJurre

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Active subs are hooked to either your Amplifier/Receivers or your Active Speakers via an RCA cable.
> 
> You don't hook them to a DAC.


 

 Ahh well thanks! Now i know everything!
  (I know it was a pretty dumb questions so thanks to everyone trying to help out!)
   
  Jurre'


----------



## MrJurre

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Active subs are hooked to either your Amplifier/Receivers or your Active Speakers via an RCA cable.
> 
> You don't hook them to a DAC.


 


 Btw, you said you only connect active subs to amplifiers instead of DAC's but isnt this both a DAC and a AMP?  (sorry for my ignorance, really trying to learn).
  I get how i connect the subwoofer to my set, by connecting it to my active speakers now!


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





mrjurre said:


> Btw, you said you only connect active subs to amplifiers instead of DAC's but isnt this both a DAC and a AMP?  (sorry for my ignorance, really trying to learn).
> I get how i connect the subwoofer to my set, by connecting it to my active speakers now!


 

  
  Haha did you even read what the product is all about before buying it? This is not an amplifier and nowhere is that word ever being mentioned.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





paconavarro said:


> I received my D1 3 days ago, Im part of the family now...
> Still need some time to break in, but so far Im liking what I listen... the tube pre-amp makes the mids on my DT990 really shine


 


  If you're using the D1 as the headphone amp you're not getting any output from the tube. All you're hearing is the solid state Op-amp from the headphone section.
   
  In this unit the tube section ONLY works with the tube out outputs on the back. i.e. the only way for you to hear the tube in the d1 is for you to listen to your headphones through a separate amp that is receiving signal from the d1's tube out section.
   
  Reading through the posts, there seems to be a lot of confusion on how this unit works. I think I'll post an image later today with an explanation of the sections and what they do so that other users may benefit from viewing as well.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





tequilasunriser said:


> If you're using the D1 as the headphone amp you're not getting any output from the tube. All you're hearing is the solid state Op-amp from the headphone section.


 


 If psychological effects work, then it is even better value for money since it allows one to get tube headamp when there wasn't any to begin with =)
   
  I believe that paconavarro uses the tube output with his Corda Headfive unless, he was genuinely referring to the D1 headamp...


----------



## Riverback

What's your active subwoofer?
   
  There are some active subwoofers that you can connect via the D1's Pre-amp outputs using RCA.
  Like: D1 --- RCA ---> Active sub --- RCA ---> Active 2.0 Speakers


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





uelover said:


> I believe that paconavarro uses the tube output with his Corda Headfive unless, he was genuinely referring to the D1 headamp...


 

  
  Ahh that makes sense.
   
  Lol @ the money-saving psychological effect haha


----------



## Thefatmanrocks

hello all, this is my first post here.  i have a d1 on the way.  can someone confirm if a 2-1 adapter will fit in the dac op amp slot?  are the 627 super chips legit?


----------



## Stinky Fart

I have a question in regard to the USB Driver. It says that my 44.1k samples will be upsampled to 96k which will spoil the SQ. Did I get this right? So how do I fix this problem(so that it won't convert or resample my stuff)? Do other DACs do this too? Will other DACs leave my 44.1k samples as it is and also support up to 96k if its 24/96? Or all DACs do this? I'm so clueless


----------



## uelover

The USB input is limited to 48 and D1 is not an upsampling DAC.


----------



## RandomShortGuy

Hey all,
   
  I just wanted to clarify a few things about the D1. Sadly I'm very new to all of this.
   
  As of now what I imagine my set up to look like: Computer --> Fiber Optic cord --> D1 --> ATH-m50.
   
  I also have a Sony STR DE135 200 watt Receiver laying around if that is of any use, and I was wondering if the upgraded D1 would benefit me. Also, am I missing any key components that nobody thought to say because it's assumed to be a part of any system?
   
  I'm just starting to expand my FLAC library, and I was planning on using this mainly for gaming.
   
  Any help would be great. Thanks guys and girls.


----------



## kswa1987

Quote: 





thefatmanrocks said:


> hello all, this is my first post here.  i have a d1 on the way.  can someone confirm if a 2-1 adapter will fit in the dac op amp slot?  are the 627 super chips legit?


 


  I would get the dual OPA627s soldered onto a browndog adapter from Tam Audio for $15 (although you have to buy 2 to get free shipping if you're in the US, but still cheaper than the superchip option).  They fit in the U5 and U6 sections no problem.  Another user on this forum recommended I do that and I am very pleased with the result.  currently using both of my dual OPA627s in my D1 (one for the headphone opamp and one for the DAC opamp).  I prefer the 627 in the headphone opamp to the LM4562 (using AKG K702s).


----------



## kswa1987

Quote: 





randomshortguy said:


> I just wanted to clarify a few things about the D1. Sadly I'm very new to all of this.
> 
> As of now what I imagine my set up to look like: Computer --> Fiber Optic cord --> D1 --> ATH-m50.
> 
> I also have a Sony STR DE135 200 watt Receiver laying around if that is of any use, and I was wondering if the upgraded D1 would benefit me. Also, am I missing any key components that nobody thought to say because it's assumed to be a part of any system?


 


  Don't get the upgraded D1, as that will only upgrade the tubes and the tubes are not utilized at all in outputting sound to your headphones.  The tubes are only used if you are connecting an amplifier via the tube pre-out RCA connectors on the back of the D1. 
   
  What I would do, however, is upgrade the opamp in the headphone section of the D1.  My favorites are the LM4562 ($3 at DigiKey) and the OPA627 ($15 at Tam Audio).


----------



## kswa1987

Quote: 





petercintn said:


> I've had my D1 for about 4 months now and I have a opa627 from Tam's, a LM4652, a opa209, the LME4972 and a opa1611.  I've replaced the tube with a cheap Raytheon 5670 and have it paired with the opa1611.  I think the 1611 blows the 627 out of the water, at least with this tube in this dac for me.  The 1611 has better extension in both directions, has better details.  The 627 may have a bit more punch, but I may just be trying to find some redeeming factor in the 627 cause I'm even liking the LM4652 better and I find it muddled compaired to the prestine sound of the 1611.  I had a opa827 but it failed with my old Forte, but I liked it the best in the sound card.  Need to get another.  The 1611 and the 827 are cheaper than the 627 also.


 


  OPA1611 bests the OPA627??  I might have to get one of those.... unfortunately I was unable to find an 8DIP packaging for either the OPA1611 or OPA1612 (it is my understanding that the 1612 is just the dual version of the 1611 which might save me some time and headaches)
   
  where did you buy your 8DIP 1611 if I may ask?


----------



## ilikepooters

I get clicking sounds when i use the optical input, anyone else getting this? when i start a song it clicks and again when it stops, if i'm clickiing on stuff in windows like back and forward between web pages i get clicking too.
  Nothing like this with the USB though.


----------



## sizzlincok

Quote: 





uelover said:


> The USB input is limited to 48 and D1 is not an upsampling DAC.


 

 How do you figure and know? Any support to your statement?


----------



## musica22

hi, i received my d1 couple days back and accidentally selected 110V instead of 230V
  which fried the fuse, so i replace the fuse with a 6.3A
  is this the correct part to use? i can turn it on now but a bit worried if there is any side effects if i'm using wrong fuse
   
  thanks.


----------



## ninjikiran

You will be ok, technically you can completely bypass the fuse as well but its not recommended of course. 
   
  Some people think the fuse impacts sound, others don't.  Choose your OCD~


----------



## ilikepooters

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Some people think the fuse impacts sound


 
   
  Now i've heard it all


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





musica22 said:


> hi, i received my d1 couple days back and accidentally selected 110V instead of 230V
> which fried the fuse, so i replace the fuse with a 6.3A
> is this the correct part to use? i can turn it on now but a bit worried if there is any side effects if i'm using wrong fuse
> 
> thanks.


 

 6.3A???? Is the fuse rating on D1 so high? I have no D1 with me now so I cant check. My current DAC rating is only 0.5A.
   
  Putting a fuse with amphere rating that exceeds the original one may cause damage to your D1 in the event of current surge (the fuse does not blow when it is supposed to).
   
  Also, fuse comes in fast blow or slow blow configuration. You need to get both the rating as well as the blow type correct.


----------



## aphroti

is it adaptable to mac ox lion?


----------



## musica22

Quote: 





uelover said:


> 6.3A???? Is the fuse rating on D1 so high? I have no D1 with me now so I cant check. My current DAC rating is only 0.5A.
> 
> Putting a fuse with amphere rating that exceeds the original one may cause damage to your D1 in the event of current surge (the fuse does not blow when it is supposed to).
> 
> Also, fuse comes in fast blow or slow blow configuration. You need to get both the rating as well as the blow type correct.


 


  I checked the fuse it only has a F025A or maybe F0.25A indication, its not properly engraved..which means its actually 0.25A?
  I don't have knowledge in electronics unfortunately, i had to asked a friend to advice me what type of fuse used commonly for a product with power selector.


----------



## uelover

musica22 said:


> I checked the fuse it only has a F025A or maybe F0.25A indication, its not properly engraved..which means its actually 0.25A?
> I don't have knowledge in electronics unfortunately, i had to asked a friend to advice me what type of fuse used commonly for a product with power selector.




might be 0.25a fast blow. 

having a 6a fuse will allow an excess current of 5.75a going through the fuse and damaging your d1 in the event of power surge, defeating the purpose of having a fuse in the first place.

not that such things happen frequently but it is as good as not having any fuse at all because it won't blow when its supposed to.


----------



## musica22

So i guess my safest bet is to find equivalent fuse value then.
  Any other way to find out the actual value needed rather than checking the fuse itself?
  
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> might be 0.25a fast blow.
> having a 6a fuse will allow an excess current of 5.75a going through the fuse and damaging your d1 in the event of power surge, defeating the purpose of having a fuse in the first place.
> not that such things happen frequently but it is as good as not having any fuse at all because it won't blow when its supposed to.


----------



## uelover

musica22 said:


> So i guess my safest bet is to find equivalent fuse value then.
> Any other way to find out the actual value needed rather than checking the fuse itself?




you can email Ryan.

that's your safest bet.


----------



## ninjikiran

Quote: 





ilikepooters said:


> Now i've heard it all


 

  
  Go ahead and search audiophile fuses on head-fi the niche exist


----------



## petercintn

Quote: 





kswa1987 said:


> OPA1611 bests the OPA627??  I might have to get one of those.... unfortunately I was unable to find an 8DIP packaging for either the OPA1611 or OPA1612 (it is my understanding that the 1612 is just the dual version of the 1611 which might save me some time and headaches)
> 
> where did you buy your 8DIP 1611 if I may ask?


 


  I bought it from a member here, leeperry. 
   
  To update, I my judgement may have been wrong about the 627, I stuck it in the HP out section and put about a 100hrs on it and tried all of my opamps again. I do not believe in burn in, so it must have been a bad ear day, I am now enjoying the awesomeness of the 627 as we speak.


----------



## tintin220

So, I recently bought the D1.... and there is a horrible buzzing / static / crackling sound particular apparent during higher female vocals (Regina Spektor, Fine Frenzy). It's even apparent in some male vocals like Fleet Foxes. I current have the D1 hooked up via USB and going with RCA through the tube pre-outs into an AV receiver.
   
  I've never heard this kind of distortion before, not even from a crappy laptop sound card. Any ideas on what might be the issue? I'm thinking it's not the tube, maybe one of the opamps? I emailed Ryan, but haven't gotten a response yet.


----------



## ilikepooters

Quote: 





tintin220 said:


> So, I recently bought the D1.... and there is a horrible buzzing / static / crackling sound particular apparent during higher female vocals (Regina Spektor, Fine Frenzy). It's even apparent in some male vocals like Fleet Foxes. I current have the D1 hooked up via USB and going with RCA through the tube pre-outs into an AV receiver.
> 
> I've never heard this kind of distortion before, not even from a crappy laptop sound card. Any ideas on what might be the issue? I'm thinking it's not the tube, maybe one of the opamps? I emailed Ryan, but haven't gotten a response yet.


 


  i noticed problems with the tube pre-outs on mine too, try the normal outputs and headphone outputs, they should be fine.
   
  Ryan is pretty good he should get back to you fairly quickly.


----------



## tintin220

I just tried the "normal" pre-outs and it seems to have the same problem. I theorized it might be related to the USB part, but the problem persists even with optical in... ugh, I hope he has a solution, this has been very disappointing.


----------



## normalwrong

Does anyone try it with audio gd- sun with lcd-2?


----------



## reiserFS

The D1 does not have enough juice to power the LCD-2 to their full potentional, even with the Sun which I have used in mine.
  
  Quote: 





normalwrong said:


> Does anyone try it with audio gd- sun with lcd-2?


----------



## ryanstevenson

Hi everyone,
   
  I'm new to DAC's, and bought the TubeMagic D1 about a week ago to accompany a new pair of headphones (Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro's 250ohm). I hooked it up to my Mac Mini using USB, and I'm hearing some interference -- not loud, but it's there. Can anyone help me understand whether this might be a problem with the D1, or a problem with my audio connection? How would I connect to my Mac using optical or coaxial?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## Ultrainferno

Your mac has a spdif out , use that as thats much better on the D1


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *ryanstevenson* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I hooked it up to my Mac Mini using USB, and I'm hearing some interference -- not loud, but it's there.


 

 You can hear interference? What kind of interference? I am curious.

  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Your mac has a spdif out , use that as thats much better on the D1


 

 I am beginning to think otherwise.


----------



## fatpooh

Hi, I have my own DAC already and I was wondering if I am able to use the "Analog out" from my DAC and pass it through the D1's "Analog In" (using RCA) and then use the tube pre-out on the D1 to connect to my amplifier. Would there be any issues with this particular setup? Would there by double-amping?


----------



## uelover

fatpooh said:


> Hi, I have my own DAC already and I was wondering if I am able to use the "Analog out" from my DAC and pass it through the D1's "Analog In" (using RCA) and then use the tube pre-out on the D1 to connect to my amplifier. Would there be any issues with this particular setup? Would there by double-amping?





yup you can do that. won't have any problems


----------



## Riverback

Quote: 





fatpooh said:


> Hi, I have my own DAC already and I was wondering if I am able to use the "Analog out" from my DAC and pass it through the D1's "Analog In" (using RCA) and then use the tube pre-out on the D1 to connect to my amplifier. Would there be any issues with this particular setup? Would there by double-amping?


 


  Why not just get a tube amp? If you wanted tube sound, you'd be better off using an actual tube amp then a tube buffer.
   
  And yes, I would think there would be double amping and connecting via analog-in would not go through the tube pre-out. I think the analog-in is similar to the Line-in connection at the front where it connects to the headphone stage to the headphone out.


----------



## uelover

riverback said:


> Why not just get a tube amp? If you wanted tube sound, you'd be better off using an actual tube amp then a tube buffer.
> 
> And yes, I would think there would be double amping and connecting via analog-in would not go through the tube pre-out. I think the analog-in is similar to the Line-in connection at the front where it connects to the headphone stage to the headphone out.




Any signal going out via the tube pre out RCA port will go through the tube. It is different from the headphone circuitry.

There won't be double amping. The dac output at line signal level which is then fed to the D1 acting as a tube preamp.


----------



## ilikepooters

Quote: 





reiserfs said:


> The D1 does not have enough juice to power the LCD-2 to their full potentional, even with the Sun which I have used in mine.


 


  D1 pumps out 2W, didn't know the LCD-2's were that hungry.


----------



## fatpooh

Quote: 





riverback said:


> Why not just get a tube amp? If you wanted tube sound, you'd be better off using an actual tube amp then a tube buffer.
> 
> And yes, I would think there would be double amping and connecting via analog-in would not go through the tube pre-out. I think the analog-in is similar to the Line-in connection at the front where it connects to the headphone stage to the headphone out.


 
   
  I do have a tube amp (Schiit Valhalla) which I intend to connect using the D1's Pre-amp out.. But If the signal goes through the amplifier of D1 then I wouldn't use the D1 as it would be double amping..


----------



## normalwrong

I got a similar question here,
  My speaker has a built in amp (audioengine A5).
  Can I connect my D1 tube output to my amp,
  and then connect the amp with the speaker?
  is that gonna emphasize the signal twice for my speaker?
  Or should i connect the speaker with tubeoutput, and then use normal output to connect to my amp?
   
   
  Quote: 





uelover said:


> yup you can do that. won't have any problems


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





normalwrong said:


> I got a similar question here,
> My speaker has a built in amp (audioengine A5).
> Can I connect my D1 tube output to my amp,
> and then connect the amp with the speaker?
> ...


 

 I don't quite get you.
   
  A5 is an active speakers so the amp is inside the speaker. So how do you connect D1 to an amp which is then connected to your A5?
   
  It is important to note that D1 *is not an amp.* You won't get the problem of double amping.
  The problem of double amping will only occur if you use the headphone output 1/4 inch port at the front and hooked it up to another amp.
   
  You should always use the 'Direct' button on the D1 whenever possible unless the need to use the volume control.
  In this manner, the D1 only acts as a DAC/Source Selector/Tube Buffer.
   
  You should connect the A5 directly to the D1 (tube or solid state output). This setup preserves the best SQ for your A5.


----------



## ninjikiran

If your getting problems through the tube pre-out and not the normal output make sure the tube is seated properly.  If it is ask for a replacement before shipping the entire thing back.
   
  And ugh @ the A5's I am thinking of selling them and downgrading to the A2's.  They are a tad too boomy to me even with treatments to angle, stands ect ect.


----------



## Riverback

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> If your getting problems through the tube pre-out and not the normal output make sure the tube is seated properly.  If it is ask for a replacement before shipping the entire thing back.
> 
> And ugh @ the A5's I am thinking of selling them and downgrading to the A2's.  They are a tad too boomy to me even with treatments to angle, stands ect ect.


 


  You too eh? I was thinking of upgrading my A2's to the A5's because I thought they were a bit boomy. Guess I should look around for other speaker brands


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





riverback said:


> You too eh? I was thinking of upgrading my A2's to the A5's because I thought they were a bit boomy. Guess I should look around for other speaker brands


 


  Aktimate mini from your country will be very good =)


----------



## RandomShortGuy

So, I got my D1 about a month ago, started picking some lossless audio, and I'm fairly pleased. Though I'm a bit curious about tubes. I keep hearing about them but I'm not sure what they do exactly. How does it affect my listening experience?
   
  I currently own a pair of M50s and I'm looking into upgrading to a pair of DT880 600 Ohms or DT990 600 Ohms. 
   
  Does anyone have have any experience with this combination?


----------



## ninjikiran

Just do it, they will probably be better than the  M50's for you.   Go to a place with a return policy like B&H in case you don't like them.
   
   
  @A5', they are horrible little things.  I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.


----------



## FunyunBreath

I've got the D1 and the 600 ohm 880's. The D1's amp just doesn't have enough juice to power high ohm cans well at all. If you're thinking about going high-ohm your best bet for an affordable desktop amp would be an OTL tube amp. I just built a Bottlehead Crack and being OTL it powers my 880's marvelously. The D1 works great as a DAC though, and it powers low ohm cans well with really no background noise.
   
  My friend has the 32 ohm 880's and we just sat down for a few hours and did a side by side comparison that i'm going to write a review on pretty soon. the setup we ran was: FLAC played through Fidelia set to normal 24/96 resampling -> Optical out to Maverick D1 -> Solid state out to Crack
   
  We ended up finding out that the 600 ohm 880's when powered through this rig sounded marvelous, very very ow noise floor, incredibly detailed, tight bass, with liquid mids. His 32 ohm 880's through the crack sounded slightly warmer with a bit more noise and less instrument separation. When we ran his 32 880's through the D1 they still had a nice soundstage and were driven well even compared to the 600 ohm 880's being driven through the Crack. 
   
  The big conclusion we came to is that for 200 bucks the D1 powered the 32 ohm 880's well enough to not justify needing to buy a tube amp and the 600 ohm 880's if someone was on a budget. The 600 ohm 880's sounded better than the 32's when run through the OTL amp, but when run through the D1 they sounded lifeless and had a significantly reduced soundstage, with anemic bass and harsh highs.


----------



## RandomShortGuy

Thank for the awesome feedback! Being a college student, I'm not exactly made of money so I'm just trying to get the best out of what I can within a budget I can afford.
   
  As of now, it looks like I'm going to try and find a DT990/600, sell my M50s (which may be a little difficult as the cosmetic condition I received them in wasn't exactly amazing, I sanded out most of the scratches and painted them a deep purple. I think they came out very well, but I doubt many others have the same appreciation as I do for purple.) and look into a OTL amp of some sort, and pair that with my D1. 
   
  Three more questions, how difficult would you say it is to assemble a Crack? I have some soldering experience but I'd still say that it's limited (mainly just repairs of broken connections) The second being, do you have any other recommendations for an amp that doesn't need to be assembled that is within that price range? And lastly, how would the set up be? As of now I'm using my D1 via optical from my desktop. Would it be PC > D1 > Amp > DT990?
   
  Thank you again for the help!


----------



## FunyunBreath

No problem, I know how tough it is to be an audiophile on a college student budget 
   
  The crack is just straight up awesome, and for $220 you really can't go wrong. Doc B's philosophy is why buy an amp that cost $200, when over 50% of that cost is because someone has to assemble it. Just spend that $200 on a kit and you get an amp that sounds like it costs more than twice as much. 
   
  The crack really isn't difficult at all. I have absolutely no knowledge of circuit theory and just a bit of soldering experience, and I built the amp over a weekend. Doc's directions are top notch and he literally goes step-by-step, even gives you warnings on the more "challenging" parts so you don't accidentally mess up. 
   
  For around $200 a DIY amp kit is the way to go for OTL rather than a Little Dot or some other chinese amp. The little dot's sound great but you can get twice the amp if you build it yourself, plus it's fun 
   
  As far as the connections go for your setup you've pretty much got it nailed. I run optical -> D1 -> Crack -> 880's (as far as the solid state output vs the tube output on the D1 i've been trying to decide which I like better) I replaced the original tube in the D1 with a Western Electric 396A and it definitely adds a little bit of warmth. Although it might just be in my head, I think the soundstage sounds a bit less wide than using the SS out.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Did you install the speedball mod or is it a vanilla crack?
   
  If not, do you plan to install the mod?


----------



## jbhildebrand

The Maverick site has a new listing today for pre-ordering the Tubemagic D2... any info on this product yet?


----------



## Ultrainferno

sure, there's a hidden D2 thread somewhere. not kidding
   
  and this: http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tubemagic_d2/d2_hardware


----------



## FunyunBreath

Quote: 





tequilasunriser said:


> Did you install the speedball mod or is it a vanilla crack?
> 
> If not, do you plan to install the mod?


 


  I have the speedball parts sitting on my desk  wanted to enjoy the base kit for a while before giving it some kick


----------



## _Spanky_

I'm baaaaaaaaaack! It's been a few months since I've been here but I've been in contact recently with Ryan so I thought I would stop by again.
  
  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> sure, there's a hidden D2 thread somewhere. not kidding
> 
> and this: http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/tubemagic_d2/d2_hardware


 

 Indeed, the D2 is on it's way finally. The product page has all the info so far. Another production batch is on it's way to Ryan right now so I would imagine any orders pending will get fulfilled in the next week or so. 
   
  Looks like I need to rework the original post as none of the spoilers work now (darn Head-Fi forever updating).


----------



## iskimya

Hi to all and especially to that gentleman involved with all the hard work put in this thread.
   
  I found myself in this forum because i was looking for some information regarding the Mav D1. Is it me or is there a problem with the links submitted by _Spanky_ in the front page of the thread?  Would like to see some more information before I take the plunge to get one of these.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> I'm baaaaaaaaaack! It's been a few months since I've been here but I've been in contact recently with Ryan so I thought I would stop by again.
> 
> 
> Indeed, the D2 is on it's way finally. The product page has all the info so far. Another production batch is on it's way to Ryan right now so I would imagine any orders pending will get fulfilled in the next week or so.
> ...


 


  What tube is in the DAC? Ryan doesn't mention it on his product page
   
  never mind, I found it: *NOS GE 5670W*


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





iskimya said:


> Hi to all and especially to that gentleman involved with all the hard work put in this thread.
> 
> I found myself in this forum because i was looking for some information regarding the Mav D1. Is it me or is there a problem with the links submitted by _Spanky_ in the front page of the thread?  Would like to see some more information before I take the plunge to get one of these.


 


  Hey iskimya, the links are broken. I've had to fix the thread many times as the forum updates have broken the features. If I have some free time today, I will work on it.


  Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> What tube is in the DAC? Ryan doesn't mention it on his product page
> 
> never mind, I found it: *NOS GE 5670W*


 


  Bingo


----------



## Ultrainferno

I was hoping for new tube


----------



## _Spanky_

Well it's cool for those that owned the D1 that still have the tubes. I now regret getting rid of my WE396A... Oh well.


----------



## Ultrainferno

I still have all my tubes


----------



## B-Dawk20

Anybody around here have the chance to use the HD650 with the D1? Looking into getting one in the future.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





b-dawk20 said:


> Anybody around here have the chance to use the HD650 with the D1? Looking into getting one in the future.


 

 I had tried it long ago. It is not bad with the stock opamp, but it can sound really good with the right opamp.


----------



## _Spanky_

Looking at your sig, you're talking about getting the HD650's as you already have the D1. I'm pretty sure those are the cans that Ryan uses. A lot of peole use the HD5xx and HD6xx with the D1 and I haven't seen anyone dislike the sound. Having moved to a speaker setup, I haven't used my DT770's in a long time but if I were to upgrade, I would look towards those cans.


----------



## Ultrainferno

I'm not a fan of the D1 amp section but the HD650 was one of the better sounding headphones with it


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> I'm not a fan of the D1 amp section but the HD650 was one of the better sounding headphones with it


 


  Yea, I would immediately pop that lousy LF353N opamp out of there and replace it with almost anything else. It's all on the first post in this thread that I still have yet to fix...


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Yea, I would immediately pop that lousy LF353N opamp out of there and replace it with almost anything else. It's all on the first post in this thread that I still have yet to fix...


 


  I should reaaaallly put this in my signature. My Opamps are already swapped. It's an LM4562NA-ND and an LT1364CN. I'm not sure which is in which section anymore


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





b-dawk20 said:


> I should reaaaallly put this in my signature. My Opamps are already swapped. It's an LM4562NA-ND and an LT1364CN. I'm not sure which is in which section anymore


 


  Good, good. I used to have my LT1364 in the DAC but even if it's opposite, I'm sure it's way better than the LF353N's. Aside from going with a discrete circuit or with a tube headphone amp, I'm sure you'll be pretty pleased with the D1 and the HD650's.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Good, good. I used to have my LT1364 in the DAC but even if it's opposite, I'm sure it's way better than the LF353N's. Aside from going with a discrete circuit or with a tube headphone amp, I'm sure you'll be pretty pleased with the D1 and the HD650's.


 


  Did you make the guide for Op amp rolling awhile back? I just know I followed a safe combo from there.
   
   
  edit: Also Spanky, after I get my next big headphone(looking strongly like the 650 at this point), I will probably be ready to upgrade my equipment. I've come across these so far, any opinions on how they sound? Especially with the 650 and probably other high end cans..
   
  DAC
 ----
 Cambridge Dacmagic
 Schiit Bifrost


 Amp
 ----
 Darkvoice 337
 Schiit Lyr


----------



## _Spanky_

B-Dawk20, I'm not really well experienced with vast equipments. I'm really the wrong person to ask. People seem to think I'm very knowledgeable but I was just a guy that collected information and put it in a neat thread because I got tired of answering the same questions over and over 
   
  Anyway, I haven't 'heard' the products you mentioned. IMO though, anything past a basic $100 amp and the majority of sound improvement comes from the headphones. Sure, you can go discrete circuits or tubes but you can only notice those improvements with high end cans. The D1 will be ample for the 650's but you'll probably aspire to have something more. If I were you, I would find either a tube amp or something without opamps. Sorry I can't help more.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Both Dacs and Amps you mentionned are fine. But definately choose tubes for the HD650


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Both Dacs and Amps you mentionned are fine. But definately choose tubes for the HD650


 


  Is this generally how most people feel?


----------



## Ultrainferno

I would say so yes


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





b-dawk20 said:


> Is this generally how most people feel?


 

 I would say it really depends on the amp.


----------



## B-Dawk20

I'm just guessing they benefit from a warmer sound so tube amps are generally gonna be better but a warm sounding solid state would be good as well?


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





b-dawk20 said:


> I'm just guessing they benefit from a warmer sound so tube amps are generally gonna be better but a warm sounding solid state would be good as well?


 


  There are tubes that sounds bright and lean and there are solid states that sound warm and lush.
   
  If the tube amp's design is not good, it will not sound good with the HD650 even if you put in some of the best tubes in the world. Likewise, a well implemented solid state will sound excellent with the HD650.
   
  Too many factors come into play. Don't get too caught up with the tubes and non-tubes. It is important to know the base sound signature of tube amps so well as its capabilities before deciding if it is the one for you. You can then roll tubes to tweak the sound to your preference.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Well yeah of course, I'm just trying to establish a general statement. So getting all the tube vs solid state out the way. Does the HD650 do better with warmer sounding equipment?


----------



## Amaltheos

Hello,
   
  I just purchased the TubeMagic D1 and received it and I have a few questions. I am hearing a soft white noise from the headphone out and I am wondering, is this normal? I hear it even without any sources plugged in so I am pretty sure it isn't from my source.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





amaltheos said:


> Hello,
> 
> I just purchased the TubeMagic D1 and received it and I have a few questions. I am hearing a soft white noise from the headphone out and I am wondering, is this normal? I hear it even without any sources plugged in so I am pretty sure it isn't from my source.


 

  
  I _think_ that is normal but you should probably accept an answer from someone that specifically remembers the headphone output on the D1 as it's been quite a while and I just don't remember it.


----------



## herzzreh

Uh-oh... I've tried every single browser out there, but spoilers don't open. Really need the FAQ...
   
  Spunky, can you send me the version w/o the spoilers?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





herzzreh said:


> Uh-oh... I've tried every single browser out there, but spoilers don't open. Really need the FAQ...
> 
> Spunky, can you send me the version w/o the spoilers?


 


  I know, I gotta fix it. I'm not sure how old this is but I have a PDF of the forum post:
  http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/head-fi/mav_condensed/mav_condensed_post.pdf


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





b-dawk20 said:


> Well yeah of course, I'm just trying to establish a general statement. So getting all the tube vs solid state out the way. Does the HD650 do better with warmer sounding equipment?


 


  HD650s are usually described as sounding "dark" and are said to mate well with warmer sounding amps. (I've never experienced them for myself so I can't give you a first hand impression) They supposedly mate very well with the Bottlehead Crack OTL tube amp.
   
  I actually ordered a Crack tonight and plan to eventually get some HD600s or 650s. Not sure which pair I want yet.


----------



## ilikepooters

Quote: 





amaltheos said:


> Hello,
> 
> I just purchased the TubeMagic D1 and received it and I have a few questions. I am hearing a soft white noise from the headphone out and I am wondering, is this normal? I hear it even without any sources plugged in so I am pretty sure it isn't from my source.


 


  if i crank up the volume to 3 quarters of the way i can hear a soft staticy hum, but below that nothing, i never need to go past about half way on the dial anyway.


----------



## milosolo

The D1 and HD650 are okay but much better with a more powerful standalone amp. I prefer tube amps myself. The D1 tube pre-out goes into my main system and to my ears sounds much better than the D1 SS stage. I never use the D1 SS-out stage. But again, I prefer the tube sound in general.


----------



## reiserFS

I can only say that I didn't have any noise coming from the headphone out, and I sure did some extensive listening through it. What cans are you using?
   
  Quote: 





amaltheos said:


> Hello,
> 
> I just purchased the TubeMagic D1 and received it and I have a few questions. I am hearing a soft white noise from the headphone out and I am wondering, is this normal? I hear it even without any sources plugged in so I am pretty sure it isn't from my source.


----------



## ninjikiran

Kinda hit my zone with the bifrost/lyr combo.  The dac itself is insanely pure while the lyr adds some color and punch.  Though the specs on the D2 are a significant upgrade and the price is right, even if the SNR specs don't match to some other dac chips out there(the chip itself which is cheap).
   
  I would suggest foregoing the standard tube and finding a better one,  I felt the nos tube that shipped with the D1 to not really add anything to the sound.  And I mean the one that came with the more expensive model.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Kinda hit my zone with the bifrost/lyr combo.  The dac itself is insanely pure while the lyr adds some color and punch.  Though the specs on the D2 are a significant upgrade and the price is right, even if the SNR specs don't match to some other dac chips out there(the chip itself which is cheap).
> 
> I would suggest foregoing the standard tube and finding a better one,  I felt the nos tube that shipped with the D1 to not really add anything to the sound.  And I mean the one that came with the more expensive model.


 


  The GE 5670 I think? Those Raytheon Windmill Getters and 396A's are pretty boss. Good investment in tubes if you plan to keep it a long time.


----------



## ninjikiran

ya that one, I assume any other well reviewed tube would work wonders.  I mean the Ge tubes can't be bad but I didn't think they added anything.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Since I asked in the other thread, might as well ask here too. How do you guys think the Beyer DT990 600ohms do with the D1?


----------



## Ultrainferno

You got a pretty good reply from Maverick there. I don't really agree with him as I didn't like the DT990/600 with the D1, it was a bit better with the A1 but when I got my other amps I finally heard how the DT990/600 should sound. But tastes are different and not everyone likes the same sound, and thats a good thing. I suggest you try and if you don't like it, return it or sell it. You usually don't get it right the first time


----------



## B-Dawk20

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> You got a pretty good reply from Maverick there. I don't really agree with him as I didn't like the DT990/600 with the D1, it was a bit better with the A1 but when I got my other amps I finally heard how the DT990/600 should sound. But tastes are different and not everyone likes the same sound, and thats a good thing. I suggest you try and if you don't like it, return it or sell it. You usually don't get it right the first time


 









 I usually hate returning things...that's why I try to get it right the first time. Welp, at least I'll get a chance to try out the HD650 soon.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

I have the 600 Ohm DT880s, they are definitely under-powered on the D1. They don't sound bad, just not what they _could_ sound like if they were properly amped.


----------



## Blagnoth

Not sure if this belongs in this thread or the general discussion thread, but both threads seem to have the same posters 
   
  I received my D1 a few days ago. I've been using it for two things so far: as a sound card replacement over USB, and as an amp/volume control device for using headphones with my PS3. For the former, paired with my AKG K-702s, I was pleased. Detail and soundstage were both markedly better than what I had experienced with my Total Bithead (which died due to me being a clutz).
   
  For gaming, I prefer closed headphones. I plugged my PS3 into the RCA analog inputs and hooked up my ATH-A900s. Immediately, I was overwhelmed with hissing, crackling, beeping, and a constant high-pitched whine. Some of this noise is coming from the USB input. Unplugging that removed a bit of the beeping and crackling, but all the interference and/or feedback is present even with nothing hooked up at all. Just having the unit on and the headphones plugged in is tremendously noisy, regardless of the volume setting. I can also hear the high-frequency whine regardless of the input setting. Perhaps it's because the ATH-A900s only have 40 ohms of impedance?
   
  The K-702s, with their 62 ohms of impedance, aren't nearly as noisy. But there still IS noise, especially when the USB input is enabled. For my computer, I have ordered some optical and coaxial cables to try because the USB function is very disappointing. Bypassing it should eliminate some of the issues.
   
  For reference, both the D1 and my computer are hooked up to a high-end UPS with power conditioning. I don't think the issues are due to grounding. I briefly used the tube preamp output with a Y-adapter and some cheapo headphones to see if the noise was present there (I know the preamp output is "hot" so I didn't want to use anything worth more than 50 bucks). I couldn't hear any noise, but this is probably only because the preamp output is so much weaker.
   
  So, is my unit defective, or am I wrong for using this with such low-impedance headphones? I'm not even going to try some of my in-ear monitors. I'd likely go deaf from the noise.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Well, I'm using a pair of 32 Ohm Grado SR60is right now and the background noise is dead quiet. I have to crank it past 12 o'clock (way past comfortable listening volumes) to _faintly _hear a hiss.
   
  I'm hooked up to my PC from my soundcard to the D1 via Toslink though. Not sure if that makes a difference.


----------



## Blagnoth

Thanks for the reply, Tequila. Ryan has already responded to me. Here's what's gone on so far. Seems to me like I just have too much junk in my man cave...
   
   
  Quote: 





> Hi,
> 
> I want you to do a small test:
> 
> ...


 
   
  My response:
  Quote: 





> I was going to do the same thing. Just now I took the D1 into another room. No noise at all. However, out of curiosity I tried it again with no inputs connected using the same outlet as before. This time, there was no noise until I plugged something in. Both the analog and USB inputs introduce noise. The analog input introduces the most noise by far.
> 
> Then, I tried hooking up two RCA cables to the analog input, but not connecting them to anything. No noise then either. (No surprise.)
> 
> ...


----------



## B-Dawk20

The USB has been known to be a bit noisy and from my AD700s and M50s, with USB enabled, they give an audible hiss when they are cranked past 12 and the hiss gets louder further up but like someone else said, volume in that area is way too loud.
   
   
  When not on USB, the hiss is barely audible at max. For me at least.


----------



## Blagnoth

Thanks to Ryan's excellent help and this Japanese power cable I had from when I lived over there, I've eliminated most of the noise. Without the USB hooked up, there's no noise until what would be deafening volumes. So once I get that optical cable, things should be just fine, I'm hoping!
   
  Very impressed with the support Ryan provided.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





blagnoth said:


> Thanks to Ryan's excellent help and this Japanese power cable I had from when I lived over there, I've eliminated most of the noise. Without the USB hooked up, there's no noise until what would be deafening volumes. So once I get that optical cable, things should be just fine, I'm hoping!
> 
> Very impressed with the support Ryan provided.


 


  Yea, the USB is not that great. I had all kinds of weird noises via USB on my unit, even analog in from my computer. Even if you have power conditioning, you can still get grounding loops between the computer and the D1. Why don't you use optical with your PS3 as well? Don't they have that kind of output?


----------



## B-Dawk20

Eh, the noises are actually only present for me when im not playing music, its dead silent otherwise. Ita really weird too because the noise change when you alternate pressing the play and pause button. Like itll be a high pitch frequency and then a mid range, then just silent, and sometimes a hiss. Then weirdly enough, once I play music, you can mute or turn the volume all the way down in the player and see the noise is completely gone.


----------



## Blagnoth

I don't use optical with the PS3 -- I have a strange setup where I need to output HDMI and analog at the same time. I do video capture from my PS3 for gameplay videos, etc. The PS3 cannot output HDMI and optical simultaneously, and I need the HDMI for capturing purposes. That leaves me with the analog output.


----------



## _Spanky_

Not sure how to help about not getting audio. Try updating the driver to the latest one (likely Realtek onboard, they release drivers quite often).
   
  For the PS3, you might be able to get a splitter and extract the SPDIF from the HDMI and split it into the D1's coaxial input. Might be too complicated but I'm sure it's possible.


----------



## Blagnoth

Just got optical working. I have no idea how, but a large piece of dirt got into the D1's optical jack in the short time between when I took off the cover and when I inserted the cable... Compressed air saves the day. Kind of hilarious.


----------



## eos500n

How come all the links doesnt' work, it just come back to the same page. help..


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





eos500n said:


> How come all the links doesnt' work, it just come back to the same page. help..


 


  Who are you speaking to and what are you speaking about.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Who are you speaking to and what are you speaking about.


 


  Spanky and the hidden links in the 1st page of the FAQ?


----------



## Flagellin

Yeah, I'm looking into getting this dac/amp, can someone explain the broken links?


----------



## mtwill54

I'm also interested in this dac and I would love to read up, but all the links are broken.


----------



## _Spanky_

Links are fixed now guys. Sorry for the wait  Enjoy!
   
  Ugh... the opamp and tube sections are screwed up and hard to read. I'll get to them... eventually...


----------



## Flagellin

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Links are fixed now guys. Sorry for the wait  Enjoy!
> 
> Ugh... the opamp and tube sections are screwed up and hard to read. I'll get to them... eventually...


 

  
  Thanks for the fix!


----------



## mtwill54

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Links are fixed now guys. Sorry for the wait  Enjoy!
> 
> Ugh... the opamp and tube sections are screwed up and hard to read. I'll get to them... eventually...


 


  Thanks Spanky!


----------



## mtwill54

I have a question about the Opamp(s) listed on the first page.  What are the actual part numbers for:
   
  OPA627
  Sun HDAM
  AD823
   
  For example, there are several OPA627 listed on Digi-Key and I'm not sure which part number to buy.
   
  Also, has anybody tried the duel OPA627?  What are the advantages over the single chip version?
   
http://www.partsconnexion.com/product4269.html


----------



## _Spanky_

mtwill54, the single OPA627 won't work in the D1. Think of it in terms of channels. The D1 is a stereo device so you need a dual opamp. Look up the BrownDog adapter. It allows 2 OPA627's to be used in a single socket. There may be clearance issues though.
   
http://www.partsconnexion.com/product4269.html
   
  I wouldn't use the AD823 because of the high DC Offset. It may ruin your headphones over time.
   
  For the HDAM, see here:
http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/diy/OPA/OPAEN.htm
  You'll have to measure and see if things will fit since the HDAM is pretty big. I know for the cost that I would rather have the HDAM instead of the OPA627.


----------



## mtwill54

Spanky,
  Is the Sun HDAM still the opamp to get, because it doesn't clip?  I'm also interested in the Moon and I'm wondering at what point the Moon would start to clip.


----------



## _Spanky_

I've not personally experienced clipping on the D1 nor have I owned a HDAM. When I did research them, I would have gone for the Earth HDAM since it's (I think) the most neutral.


----------



## dityfication

Nice post. Nice review.


----------



## ninjikiran

Yea the D1 I don't think is properly grounded always I remember the story of feeling of a few volts of electricity passing through my body when I touched the RCA inputs/out  I don't remember how but the problem fixed itself but was still a bit funny.


----------



## iceman23

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Yea the D1 I don't think is properly grounded always I remember the story of feeling of a few volts of electricity passing through my body when I touched the RCA inputs/out  I don't remember how but the problem fixed itself but was still a bit funny.


 


  I thought I was the only one experiencing this! Now I don't feel as insane as before LOL. It's especially prevalent from the tube output - I can send a nasty pop/noise to my speakers if I simply touch the rca cable to the output.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Yea the D1 I don't think is properly grounded always I remember the story of feeling of a few volts of electricity passing through my body when I touched the RCA inputs/out  I don't remember how but the problem fixed itself but was still a bit funny.


 

 Maybe you can hold on to the RCA output and you will start singing whatever that is being fed to you


----------



## TheChosen0ne

Where's the best place to buy this?  And is it ok for me not to change anything on it?  I don't know anything about amps or headphones but I decided to get the Senhenseiser 650 and people have suggested I get this amp/dac.


----------



## uelover

thechosen0ne said:


> Where's the best place to buy this?  And is it ok for me not to change anything on it?  I don't know anything about amps or headphones but I decided to get the Senhenseiser 650 and people have suggested I get this amp/dac.




You can get it from the chosen place: www.mav-audio.com

No need to roll any opamps. Just connect the cables and you can use it.


----------



## TheChosen0ne

Quote: 





uelover said:


> You can get it from the chosen place: www.mav-audio.com
> No need to roll any opamps. Just connect the cables and you can use it.


 


  I heard there were problems with noises that it makes is this a big deal or what?


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





thechosen0ne said:


> I heard there were problems with noises that it makes is this a big deal or what?


 


  Ask Ryan (seller) to ensure that the unit has got no noise before shipping it to you. Don't think that is a very prevalent problem, might be affecting only a small batch.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Ask Ryan (seller) to ensure that the unit has got no noise before shipping it to you. Don't think that is a very prevalent problem, might be affecting only a small batch.


 


  I think it's dependent on setup. How your computer is built, etc. There could be batch issues though too, some not having proper grounding. Some people report issues with USB (like me) and others report no noise with USB. I think everybody agrees that if you use coaxial or optical input, there's no noise at all, aside from a high gain hiss (but that was supposed to be fixed many many months ago). 
   
  Oh, and you don't HAVE to swap opamps but it's super easy and cheap to do so and it makes the unit sound so much better.


----------



## mtwill54

I received my Maverick Audio D1 this last Friday and I have a question.  When I opened the box I noticed that the top part or lid of the D1 was discolored\faded in two big sections (left side and right side).  Almost exactly like the it had been sitting in the sun and was partially covered with something.  I would expect the whole unit to have the same basic black color.  I definitely doesn't look right.  I tried gently wiping it but the discoloration is permanent.  Here is a picture.


----------



## hodgjy

I owned a Maverick for a week.  Then I got rid of it.  It's not a good kit.  Mine was made very poorly.  The rubber feet were all different heights, so it wobbled.  The case was warped as well, so the screws didn't line up right.  And then there was the whole sonic issues as well.  When I emailed customer support, I was offered $25 in an attempt to appease me. 
   
  Why am I telling you this?  Because I was not at all satisfied with the Maverick and I will never buy another Maverick product again.  I hope the customer service has improved since then and you get a fair resolution.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





mtwill54 said:


> I received my Maverick Audio D1 this last Friday and I have a question.  When I opened the box I noticed that the top part or lid of the D1 was discolored\faded in two big sections (left side and right side).  Almost exactly like the it had been sitting in the sun and was partially covered with something.  I would expect the whole unit to have the same basic black color.  I definitely doesn't look right.  I tried gently wiping it but the discoloration is permanent.  Here is a picture.


 



 I've seen several D1s and they all had this issue, one more as the other


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





hodgjy said:


> I owned a Maverick for a week.  Then I got rid of it.  It's not a good kit.  Mine was made very poorly.  The rubber feet were all different heights, so it wobbled.  The case was warped as well, so the screws didn't line up right.  And then there was the whole sonic issues as well.  When I emailed customer support, I was offered $25 in an attempt to appease me.
> 
> Why am I telling you this?  Because I was not at all satisfied with the Maverick and I will never buy another Maverick product again.  I hope the customer service has improved since then and you get a fair resolution.


 

 The case on my Audio-GD NFB-12 is wobbily and it doesn't even come with feet, it's just extruded aluminum. My D1 was also wobbily but it's easily fixed with a piece of foam tape. My D1 case did line up properly but my A1 did not but it was a pre-production model. The D1 is an introductory all-in-one unit. It's not meant to be high end, it's meant to give you an all around taste of quality audio with a dedicated DAC, amp and tube preamp.
   
  As for Maverick Audio customer service, Ryan is always wanting to resolve any issues you might have. He's always friendly and prompt to reply to any e-mail. I also know that all the units are personally tested by him before being shipped out. Being that this is a budget introductory unit and peoples setups are greatly different, certain situations will induce more grounding problems/noise than others. Also, all the units are hand made. For the price, Ryan's products are pretty good.
   
  *EDIT*
  That issue pictured above is the first I've seen of it. I've never seen it on my units nor have I seen it in other user pictures. If it really bothers you, I would ask about a replacement top.


----------



## mtwill54

Yea, it is very noticeable.  I sent Ryan an email about it with the picture.  Hopefully they can just send a new lid.


----------



## mtwill54

Update, I received an email back from Ryan.  He told me they spray a thin layer of protective wax on the units and to use a dry cloth to wipe the wax off.  I used a microfiber cloth and was able to remove all of the protective wax.  The top looks fine now. 
   
  I'm still going through the break in period, but initially the D1 sounds excellent.  Definitely better than the FiiO E10 I was using.  I also purchased the LT1364CN8 and LM4562NA opamp upgrades that I might try after I get a chance to listen to the stock setup.  I'm also thinking about ordering the LME49720HA since I will only be using the D1 as a DAC\Preamp for my two channel music listening.


----------



## ninjikiran

The exact opposite happened with my unit, everything was fine.  Eventually for some unexplained reason and not forever there was a small current flowing through the RCA ports but thats about it.
   
  Built quality/screws was spot on and no wobble on the case that I can remember.  It is possible the unit was a fluke~
   
  Actually ide say the build quality of the maverick was a bit better than the NFB-2 from Audio-Gd.
   
  But nothing matches the build quality of the schiit products I own,  their quality control seems to be very very good.


----------



## mtwill54

I'm curious how many people have used the D1 as a preamp for two channel listen.  I was planning on using the D1 as a DAC\Preamp connected to an Emotiva UPA-2 amplifier.
   
  Netbook (toslink)--> D1 (rca)--> Emotiva UPA-2
   
  Would upgrading the D1 volume pot make any difference in this setup?


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





mtwill54 said:


> I'm curious how many people have used the D1 as a preamp for two channel listen.  I was planning on using the D1 as a DAC\Preamp connected to an Emotiva UPA-2 amplifier.
> 
> Netbook (toslink)--> D1 (rca)--> Emotiva UPA-2
> 
> Would upgrading the D1 volume pot make any difference in this setup?


 

 I would bypass the D1 volume pot, just put it on Direct, that's what I do when I used it as pre amp


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> I would bypass the D1 volume pot, just put it on Direct, that's what I do when I used it as pre amp


 


  Problem is, his amp doesn't have a pot. I might suggest getting/building a passive preamp. I looked into the designs and they're very simple. You can even have multiple switched inputs if you wanted. That way, if you pass on your D1 and get another DAC, you still have a nice quality pot.


----------



## mtwill54

I was able to test out the D1 as a Preamp and DAC (tube output) to the Emotiva UPA-2.  Honestly, I think it works and sounds great.  I definitely like the sound better than the Emotiva XDA-1 I was using and I only have about 15-20 hours into the break in period.  So I'm hoping it will sound even better after 50 - 100 hours of break in. Thanks again for the help.


----------



## anius

Have someone try to replace 4 transistors in headphone section? My D1 have two green NEC and two black SEC.


----------



## mtwill54

After listening to my current setup, I noticed the vocals don't seem to have the same sound stage as the music and not as clear as I would like.  I'm currently using the GE5670 tube and stock opamps.  I have (1) LT1364 and (2) LM4562NA opamps sitting in a box.  Any suggestions on which opamps or tube to switch out that might improve the vocals?


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





mtwill54 said:


> After listening to my current setup, I noticed the vocals don't seem to have the same sound stage as the music and not as clear as I would like.  I'm currently using the GE5670 tube and stock opamps.  I have (1) LT1364 and (2) LM4562NA opamps sitting in a box.  Any suggestions on which opamps or tube to switch out that might improve the vocals?


 


  Try to let the D1 run in for 200 hours more and at the same time, use some isolation cones at the bottom of the D1. They will make a big difference.


----------



## mtwill54

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Try to let the D1 run in for 200 hours more and at the same time, use some isolation cones at the bottom of the D1. They will make a big difference.


 
   
  Ok thanks.  Any suggestions on where and which isolation cones to buy?


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Try to let the D1 run in for 200 hours more and at the same time, use some isolation cones at the bottom of the D1. They will make a big difference.


 


  I thought this voodoo was just for mechanical things like a turntable?


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> I thought this voodoo was just for mechanical things like a turntable?


 

 It works with anything with micro vibration (the tube and the PSU inside D1). I bought my cones for less than USD20. Doesn't hurt to try.
  
  Quote: 





mtwill54 said:


> Ok thanks.  Any suggestions on where and which isolation cones to buy?


 

 You may want to google around? I bought it from a local shop in my country.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





uelover said:


> It works with anything with micro vibration (the tube and the PSU inside D1). I bought my cones for less than USD20. Doesn't hurt to try.


 
   
  Ok, the tube I can understand. I actually remember something about microphonics and small wires moving and whatnot in the tube. But... the PSU? It's a hunk of metal, how is that affected?


----------



## Tequilasunriser

The D1 has rubber feet. It does not need more rubber feet.
   
  Besides, the 2C51/5670 tube is sturdy little tube. It's a small and dense without a lot of wiggle room for microphonics.
   
  Not saying it's not possible, but it's not likely with the D1 already dampening with it's rubber feet and with the tube being within the unit away from exposure.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





mtwill54 said:


> After listening to my current setup, I noticed the vocals don't seem to have the same sound stage as the music and not as clear as I would like.  I'm currently using the GE5670 tube and stock opamps.  I have (1) LT1364 and (2) LM4562NA opamps sitting in a box.  Any suggestions on which opamps or tube to switch out that might improve the vocals?


 
   
  Do you use your D1 as a headphone amp or do you have an amp connected to the D1 from the tube-out?
   
  If you are using the D1 as your amp then you aren't even using the tube. The headphone out on the D1 is solid state only, so invest in some opamps to roll and decide what sounds best to you.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Ok, the tube I can understand. I actually remember something about microphonics and small wires moving and whatnot in the tube. But... the PSU? It's a hunk of metal, how is that affected?


 


  I typed wrongly while I was in a hurry. It is not cones. It is spikes that I am using with spike feets.
   
  Spiking the D1 was a piece of advice given to me by another audiophile. He demonstrated to me the difference with and without the wooden spikes at his place. The difference is quite huge on his speakers set up. He was using the GE5670 tubes with the stock opamps.
   
  I am not trying to explain the mechanics behind the spiking but am just sharing my experience here with other head-fiers who also own the D1.
   
  Feel free to try it or trash it. Doesn't hurt me in either way, but it may help whoever that are trying to maximize the D1's potential through cheap diy tweaks.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





uelover said:


> I typed wrongly while I was in a hurry. It is not cones. It is spikes that I am using with spike feets.
> 
> Spiking the D1 was a piece of advice given to me by another audiophile. He demonstrated to me the difference with and without the wooden spikes at his place. The difference is quite huge on his speakers set up. He was using the GE5670 tubes with the stock opamps.
> 
> ...


 


  Is it for minor vibrations within the unit or it's stand? I've been curious to try but chalked it up as voodoo and never wanted to spend $$ on it. I don't think I could put some on my power amp or DAC right now as it all fits on my desk nicely and I couldn't deal with the extra height. But, I have my 2 heavy speakers on my desk plus a monitor and I would think with all the weight, any vibrations would go away rather quickly.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Is it for minor vibrations within the unit or it's stand? I've been curious to try but chalked it up as voodoo and never wanted to spend $$ on it. I don't think I could put some on my power amp or DAC right now as it all fits on my desk nicely and I couldn't deal with the extra height. But, I have my 2 heavy speakers on my desk plus a monitor and I would think with all the weight, any vibrations would go away rather quickly.


 

 Spikes are used to control vibrations from within the unit itself as well as to isolate mechanical vibrations from the table/desk to the DAC.
   
  I didn't believe spikes will make a different until someone demonstrated to me right in my face. It was then that I went to grab some cheap ones.
   
  Won't your heavy speakers contribute much more to the vibration??


----------



## mtwill54

uelover,
  I think I've found some inexpensive isolation cones (Vibrapod) that I'm going to give a try.  I'm ordering them sometime today and I'll post back on the results.  I'm always willing to give something a try.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





mtwill54 said:


> uelover,
> I think I've found some inexpensive isolation cones (Vibrapod) that I'm going to give a try.  I'm ordering them sometime today and I'll post back on the results.  I'm always willing to give something a try.


 


  Vibrapod inexpensive??? I have read good things about them but they just cost too much.
   
  I hope that they will give you the results you are looking for =)


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Won't your heavy speakers contribute much more to the vibration??


 

 Doesn't it take more energy to move more mass? Vibrations should deaden out when you apply more rigidity and mass to the vibrating entity. I'm not sure how spikes help on hard surfaces unless they're rubber. I think dampening means more than less surface area in contact. I can totally see how spikes would help with speakers/subwoofers sitting on a carpet though.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Yeah, I'm calling voodoo on the spikes for the D1. Especially if the D1 is being used as the amp (it's all solid state circuitry!)
   
  Plus, it already has rubber feet.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Doesn't it take more energy to move more mass? Vibrations should deaden out when you apply more rigidity and mass to the vibrating entity. I'm not sure how spikes help on hard surfaces unless they're rubber. I think dampening means more than less surface area in contact. I can totally see how spikes would help with speakers/subwoofers sitting on a carpet though.


 


  I mean, speakers themselves are a much major source of vibration than the D1. I don't know if you meant that you place your speakers on the same desk alongside the D1 or if your speaker is floorstanding. If they are on the same desk, the speakers, when playing, are pushing all the mechanical vibration via the table onto the D1.
   
  I don't know the physical mechanics as to why spike works on the D1 so I won't try to provide a theory here because it is meaningless. Some amount of googling may help here.
   
  I believe that increasing the mass/density of the D1 will help. So will placing the D1 on a separate rack. But the main purpose of using spikes is to curtail the vibration from within the D1 that I and not to isolate it from external vibration because placing the D1 somewhere else is a much cheaper solution.
   
  I do disagree that spikes will not do well on hard surface. When used on carpets or hard ground, people will tend to use the spike alongside spike feets. Also, people who place spikes on their CD players or Amplifiers place their components on 'audiophile racks' (I don't know if they really make any difference compared to normal racks) which are hard surfaces as well.
   
  Anyway, I am derailing. =)


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





uelover said:


> I mean, speakers themselves are a much major source of vibration than the D1. I don't know if you meant that you place your speakers on the same desk alongside the D1 or if your speaker is floorstanding. If they are on the same desk, the speakers, when playing, are pushing all the mechanical vibration via the table onto the D1.
> 
> I don't know the physical mechanics as to why spike works on the D1 so I won't try to provide a theory here because it is meaningless. Some amount of googling may help here.
> 
> ...


 


  I guess it didn't occur to me that speakers produce vibrations  Such an obvious thing hehe. But yea, I have my power amp, monitor, DAC (no longer the D1) and 2 speakers on my desk as they all fit together nicely. Here's an old picture:
  http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/website/computer/v9/DSCF0056.JPG
  Now, the DAC sits on the power amp next to my monitor... Anyway, I personally don't notice any ill-effects. I mean, I have absolutely no noise at all, even cranking the volume.
   
  I think any improvement from spikes on the D1 could be due to the tube or quite possibly the R-Core transformer since those have weird and high amounts of RF.
   
  One could spend hundreds on racks and spikes and brackets or you could spend it on a nice piece of equipment. I'm willing to lay down cash money to say that putting the money into equipment will mean more of a boost in audio quality  Although, I must admit, I bought some rubber feet for my speakers, but that's because I didn't want to scratch the beautiful walnut on the bottom.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> I guess it didn't occur to me that speakers produce vibrations  Such an obvious thing hehe. But yea, I have my power amp, monitor, DAC (no longer the D1) and 2 speakers on my desk as they all fit together nicely. Here's an old picture:
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/website/computer/v9/DSCF0056.JPG
> Now, the DAC sits on the power amp next to my monitor... Anyway, I personally don't notice any ill-effects. I mean, I have absolutely no noise at all, even cranking the volume.
> 
> ...


 

 Not the most desirable placing of equipment but a very well use of space I must say. Hahah.
   
  Maybe you can move all the components to the floor while leaving the speakers on the desk to see if there is any noticeable improvement. If not, you can at least be rest assured. =)
   
  I am not willing to spend a few hundreds on racks and spikes. That is just silly, unless, all my equipments cost over hundreds of thousands and I have no better way to spend my money in life.


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Not the most desirable placing of equipment but a very well use of space I must say. Hahah.
> 
> Maybe you can move all the components to the floor while leaving the speakers on the desk to see if there is any noticeable improvement. If not, you can at least be rest assured. =)


 

 Yea, I don't really have a better way to place things. I know I would get flamed for having my speakers too close to the wall, etc... I might try moving the components though.
   
   




uelover said:


> I am not willing to spend a few hundreds on racks and spikes. That is just silly, unless, all my equipments cost over hundreds of thousands and I have no better way to spend my money in life.


 
  This is one of the most reasonable posts on this entire forum.


----------



## mtwill54

Quote: 





uelover said:


> Vibrapod inexpensive??? I have read good things about them but they just cost too much.
> 
> I hope that they will give you the results you are looking for =)


 

 Yea, I completely misread how much the Vibrapod isolation cones cost.  I'll probably get the inexpensive Dayton Audio ones ($29) at Parts Express.  Also, I now have about 60+ hours break in time on the D1 and the sound quality improvement is significant compared to the first 10 - 20 hours of break in time. 
   
  Adding the D1 to my two channel setup as the DAC\Preamp has been a huge improvement in overall sound quality (improved sound stage, clearer vocals, tighter bass).  I played a few Sade tracks last night and her voice was smooth as butter.  I'm really enjoying this setup.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





mtwill54 said:


> Yea, I completely misread how much the Vibrapod isolation cones cost.  I'll probably get the inexpensive Dayton Audio ones ($29) at Parts Express.


 


  Interested to hear of the impression on the Vibrapod. Someone told me that they are very good but I could not afford them nor justify its price as well.


----------



## palermo

Hey guys.. where I can read review Tubemagic D2. I need to know how it compare with on par price stuff, like NFB-12


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





palermo said:


> Hey guys.. where I can read review Tubemagic D2. I need to know how it compare with on par price stuff, like NFB-12


 


  I'm waiting to receive my D2. I'll compare it with my NFB-12.


----------



## cssarrow

Mine is also in the mail using DHL.
   
  Got it for $239 + $25 Shipping, it's like $249 now. Came with free GE 5670 Tube.
   
  I don't have the D1 so i can't really compare to it. 
   
  Will let you know how it sounds like through usb 24 bit / 96Khz.


----------



## Ultrainferno

I'm also waiting for the D2, I'm not in a hurry so that's ok. But I eventually will compare it to the D1


----------



## thetarget

Hey, this is my first post.
   
  I've got the first version of the D1.
   
  The question I wanna ask is how do I output through the tube preamp?
   
  Everything seems to route to the headphone output. 
   
  Frankly speaking, I am very new at this.
   
  Thanks


----------



## Tequilasunriser

Quote: 





thetarget said:


> Hey, this is my first post.
> 
> I've got the first version of the D1.
> 
> ...


 
  Tube out only works from the "tube out" output, so if you don't have a receiver or amp hooked up to the D1 from the tube out then you aren't benefiting from it.


----------



## thetarget

Quote: 





tequilasunriser said:


> Tube out only works from the "tube out" output, so if you don't have a receiver or amp hooked up to the D1 from the tube out then you aren't benefiting from it.


 


  say i have a Maverick A1, how do I hook it up?


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





thetarget said:


> say i have a Maverick A1, how do I hook it up?


 


  with interconnects 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  D1: tube pre out -> A1 input -> Headphone
  Pretty logic stuff


----------



## thetarget

Thats the thing, connect the d1 preout to the a1 analog in, there is no sound.
   
  I am using analog in for the d1
   
  D1 analog in > D1 preout > A1 analog in > headphone,
   
  but there is no sound.


----------



## thetarget

I think i found the problem..
   
  I opened up the casing, and i notice that the tube is not shining..
   
  In that case it is likely that the tube is spoilt right?


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





thetarget said:


> I think i found the problem..
> 
> I opened up the casing, and i notice that the tube is not shining..
> 
> In that case it is likely that the tube is spoilt right?


 

 yes, try the solid state out?


----------



## thetarget

the normal analog out is gone too
   
  but the headphone out of the d1 works perfectly
   
  anyone knows how to repair this?


----------



## _Spanky_

thetarget, I would e-mail Ryan about this. It seems more of a serious problem than just a faulty tube. I know in my D1, I ran it without the tube for a while and just used solid-state output and it worked fine.


----------



## _Spanky_

Just got my D2 and I'm impressed all the way around. I will post more later when I've had a chance to test it more but initial impressions are quite pleasing.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> Just got my D2 and I'm impressed all the way around. I will post more later when I've had a chance to test it more but initial impressions are quite pleasing.


 


  Looks promising!


----------



## _Spanky_

Quote: 





ultrainferno said:


> Looks promising!


 


  I'm really at a loss for words. I will write a full review with pictures but, I would almost swear this thing sounds better than my NFB-12. I know the opamps in the D2 are a bottleneck but the sound is more.... dynamic. The bass is stronger without being bloated and the cymbals of drum kits are more pronounced without being harsh. The NFB-12 seems to have overbearing mids. After several days, I'm really struggling to find 1 bad thing about the D2... It's easily Ryan's best product yet.


----------



## Ultrainferno

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> I'm really at a loss for words. I will write a full review with pictures but, I would almost swear this thing sounds better than my NFB-12. I know the opamps in the D2 are a bottleneck but the sound is more.... dynamic. The bass is stronger without being bloated and the cymbals of drum kits are more pronounced without being harsh. The NFB-12 seems to have overbearing mids. After several days, I'm really struggling to find 1 bad thing about the D2... It's easily Ryan's best product yet.


 


  The D2 took him longest as well. I'll be getting a unit fairly soon I guess. waiting for news from Ryan


----------



## foobar2k

I just got my D1 in the mail the other day, and while the line-in and analog inputs both output sound, the USB, coax, and optical inputs do not work.  I suspect it's a DAC issue, any suggestions/fixes before I ship it back to china?


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





foobar2k said:


> I just got my D1 in the mail the other day, and while the line-in and analog inputs both output sound, the USB, coax, and optical inputs do not work.  I suspect it's a DAC issue, any suggestions/fixes before I ship it back to china?


 


  You can email Maverick Audio to ask what you should do =)


----------



## foobar2k

Quote: 





uelover said:


> You can email Maverick Audio to ask what you should do =)


 

 Derrrrrrrrrrp I had it on 220v instead of 110...


----------



## ninjikiran

I would be happy to receive a test D2, would be a fun comparison to the BiFrost. 

 My current system is a far cry from the D1, especially with all of the amps and dacs ive tried in my life from audigy 2 to the bifrost I own today.
   
  I decided to dump the lyr and I bit the dust on a Decaware Taboo w/ vcap and headphone jack.


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





foobar2k said:


> Derrrrrrrrrrp I had it on 220v instead of 110...


 


  And it still works?


----------



## ninjikiran

Of course,  your under volting it.  Turn it the other way around 220v into 110v and kablooey xD


----------



## uelover

Quote: 





ninjikiran said:


> Of course,  your under volting it.  Turn it the other way around 220v into 110v and kablooey xD


 
   
  Oh yar I forgot that it is in the US.
   
  If I were to plug a 110V device into my power socket, the device will kaboom immediately.


----------



## _Spanky_

I've been lazy with my review. I wrote half of it and haven't had the time/will to finish it. I will though. I can say that I've had the D2 hooked up as my main DAC for almost a week now and I don't miss the NFB-12. I am curious to see how swapping the opamps in the D2 will affect the sound since I still have 3 LM4562's laying around.


----------



## Tequilasunriser

I recently read this article, and am considering putting the original opamps back in.
   
  I never actually tried the D1 with the stock opamps anyway.


----------



## ninjikiran

I agree, opamps don't make much difference in msot cases  but the default opamps on the d1 give you highs that pierce your ears more than the 4562.  Besides that no change in sound signature.


----------



## _Spanky_

It has certainly surprised me how close in sound quality the D2 and NFB-12 are, being that the NFB-12 has discrete circuits. It could just be my usage (more games and HD video than FLAC music) or my setup (middle of the road vintage setup) but that's really how I feel. IMO, the features between the two make more of a difference. BNC input, front panel power button, tube output on the D2 and headphone amp on the NFB-12. It's really hard to choose. I really think that in order to hear differences or have the D2 be the limiting piece in your setup, you must have over $800-$1k of equipment after the D2.


----------



## ninjikiran

Depends on what kind of signature you want, the NFB-12 is undoubtedly on the warmer side of reaching neutrality.


----------



## TheGrumpyOldMan

A quick note to those interested in some impressions about the D2, I have added a post to the existing D2-specific thread:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/578557/maverick-audio-dac-d2#post_8178213


----------



## toyman

I rolled in a lm4562 to the headphone side. Didn't like it at all:mad: Harsh highs, lack of detail seemed that everything was compressed. Put the original back in and all is well.


----------



## FunyunBreath

So far I haven't seen anyone have this issue but sorry if this is a repost
   
  On my D1 I'm getting alot of noise that's being output through the SS line-out and tube pre-amped line out. However, it only happens when I'm feeding a 24/96 signal through optical.
   
  Has anyone else had this issue? It's a real bummer because its super noticeable, especially with 24/96 vinyl rips since I have to up the volume on my amplifier.


----------



## alien3456

Today I replaced both stock opamps with LT1364CN8. Noticeable upgrade! Sounds much clearer and has a punchier bass that makes me love my DT770Pros again, as opposed to preferring brighter headphones with the D1.
   
  FunyunBreath, I had similar problems with 24/96 + stock opamps that now seem to be gone. I'd get noise at even moderate sound levels with 96k, but now I can crank it to 100% and hear only a faint white noise that seems normal. Might be worth trying as they're not very expensive opamps, and it's an easy mod.


----------



## FunyunBreath

Quote: 





alien3456 said:


> Today I replaced both stock opamps with LT1364CN8. Noticeable upgrade! Sounds much clearer and has a punchier bass that makes me love my DT770Pros again, as opposed to preferring brighter headphones with the D1.
> 
> FunyunBreath, I had similar problems with 24/96 + stock opamps that now seem to be gone. I'd get noise at even moderate sound levels with 96k, but now I can crank it to 100% and hear only a faint white noise that seems normal. Might be worth trying as they're not very expensive opamps, and it's an easy mod.


 
   
  You replaced both opamps with the LT1364?
   
  I have the LT1364 and LM4562 in mine


----------



## preproman

Quote: 





_spanky_ said:


> It has certainly surprised me how close in sound quality the D2 and NFB-12 are, being that the NFB-12 has discrete circuits. It could just be my usage (more games and HD video than FLAC music) or my setup (middle of the road vintage setup) but that's really how I feel. IMO, the features between the two make more of a difference. BNC input, front panel power button, tube output on the D2 and headphone amp on the NFB-12. It's really hard to choose. I really think that in order to hear differences or have the D2 be the limiting piece in your setup, you must have over $800-$1k of equipment after the D2.


 
  So how would the D2 pair with the GS-1?  It's in the price range above.


----------



## djnagle

Hi All, I have been using the D1 for years now and I have had many false starts with swapping op amps and tubes.  We are finally settled in our new house and new jobs so I am back at it.  The issue for me is....I don't know what you all are talking about half the time.  I am a builder and don't really understand the terminology.  SO, I'd like to order a set of the different opamps and will be placing an order at Mouser tomorrow for all the bits I need to finish my GM70 amp.  Can someone tell me what opamps and how many to order???
   
  Also, are the different opamps used for the SS pre  AND the DAC?  I've read the FAQs and still don't understand it.  Thanks a lot for all your help.  Cheers, Dennis.


----------



## Shroker

The DAC has a chip to the tube pre-out (The chip closest to the tube). the opamp for the head phone out is its own . (labelled u6 on the board).


 Anyone here using the LT1364 chip have issues with channels? I put mine in and i have to put my D1 at max to get a sound out of it and it is only one channel. Is it defective?


----------



## ninjikiran

Possibly defective or a mono chip.
  
  The D1 w/ LM49720 in the HPA is plenty good to me.  I found that all discrete OPA's including the A-GD Sun rather suck in it.
   
  D1 as dac only output to a separate amp is a better upgrade than anything minor you can make.  I mean the dac is not bad at all~  Of course if you compare it head to head with something more expensive(for example the NFB-3/2 or I would even assume the maverick D2 which I have not heard before) its flaws become apparent(noise floor bleeding into audible spectrum for instance).
   
  This is without the tube output which I never actually utilized.


----------



## apollo7157

I am looking to upgrade my Mav-audio TubeMagic D1. I am a new user to this forum but I was hoping someone might be able to make some general recommendations for the best all-around upgrades I can do. I figure I can probably get more bang for my buck by upgrading the OpAmps rather than upgrading to the D2, especially since I'm already quite happy with the D1. I've found that the highs are somewhat too shrill for my taste and the lows are too bloated and loud when using the optical out from an auztentech prelude, and connecting krk active monitors + krk sub directly to the D1. I've browsed through many pages of this thread but I can't possibly read through all of it, so perhaps someone could summarize, or perhaps link me to a page in this thread that does - the front page "condensed" thread doesn't really identify the "best" upgrade, though I suppose there is a degree of personal preference involved here. 
   
  They are now selling the OPA 627 mod on the mav-audio site, and according to an email exchange I had with their tech support, Ryan, he suggested that their testing indicated this was the best upgrade. What do you think? I've seen many posts suggesting that this Sun HDAM thing may be a better upgrade, and I went through a few posts that talked about the "skyline" mod. I would be up for doing the mod myself I think...though the audio-gd website is a total disaster and it's not clear how to order one.


----------



## Shroker

Quote: 





apollo7157 said:


> I am looking to upgrade my Mav-audio TubeMagic D1. I am a new user to this forum but I was hoping someone might be able to make some general recommendations for the best all-around upgrades I can do. I figure I can probably get more bang for my buck by upgrading the OpAmps rather than upgrading to the D2, especially since I'm already quite happy with the D1. I've found that the highs are somewhat too shrill for my taste and the lows are too bloated and loud when using the optical out from an auztentech prelude, and connecting krk active monitors + krk sub directly to the D1. I've browsed through many pages of this thread but I can't possibly read through all of it, so perhaps someone could summarize, or perhaps link me to a page in this thread that does - the front page "condensed" thread doesn't really identify the "best" upgrade, though I suppose there is a degree of personal preference involved here.
> 
> They are now selling the OPA 627 mod on the mav-audio site, and according to an email exchange I had with their tech support, Ryan, he suggested that their testing indicated this was the best upgrade. What do you think? I've seen many posts suggesting that this Sun HDAM thing may be a better upgrade, and I went through a few posts that talked about the "skyline" mod. I would be up for doing the mod myself I think...though the audio-gd website is a total disaster and it's not clear how to order one.


 
  In order to order the SUN HDAM. Basically you e-mail him your order. Then you will get a email back with his paypal info.
 Also, I would recommend looking up on eBay to get some DIP-8 sockets to raise the DAC slot or the headphone opamp slot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180686218449?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2782wt_1254 something like these.
 the Sun HDAM does not clear the height of the capactiors. They also sit taller than the case.

 I used a [size=small]LME49720 chip before I got the HDAM. I quite liked it and was a stand in until I had the cash for the HDAM.[/size]
   
  [size=small]My current setup is the Western Electric 396A tube. This is an amazing tube for the D1. It has a deeper background sound, great sound staging and brings the lower freqneucy sounds out. I then paired it with my SUN HDAM' and WOW. My speakers sound super amaizng now and even more superb ever since I got my JBL's hooked up again.

 Audio is extermely subjective. The reason why there is no best upgrade is because there is none. It would really throw off decision making because they are all slightly different but a combination always stands out.

 I highly recommend the 396A tube and the SUN HDAM for the D1. Massive improvement and the clarity is gorgeous.[/size]


----------



## apollo7157

Quote: 





shroker said:


> In order to order the SUN HDAM. Basically you e-mail him your order. Then you will get a email back with his paypal info.
> Also, I would recommend looking up on eBay to get some DIP-8 sockets to raise the DAC slot or the headphone opamp slot.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/180686218449?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2782wt_1254 something like these.
> ...


 
  Thanks Shroker - this is really helpful. Any idea how the Western Electric 396A compares to the [size=1.05em]GE5670W[/size]? When I got my D1 I opted for the tube upgrade at the time...Also what is the difference between the single and dual OpAMP? They list both as options here http://audio-gd.com/Pro/diy/OPA/OPAEN.htm


----------



## Shroker

The Dual is for stereo or something I think. it is the way the chips are aligned. As the components are single channel components. I may be wrong. I remember it is mentioned somewhere either on hte website or in this thread.

 The tube upgrade that comes with the D1 is good and defintely a good entry "upgrade" tube!.
 The 396A is REALLY lovely. Deep, open sound stage. Gives the lower frequency a warm, upped feel. Punchy but not boomy.
  
  Paired with the SUN HDAM it becomes clearer and the extension of the soundstage is opened up a little bit more ontop of that.

 I run my D1 to my stereo amp and the sound is gorgeous. The same goes with headphones (obviously pending the headphones). Close your eyes and the music rises and fills with presence.
  There are a few combinations here on the thread that you can dig out via eBay and play around with. .
 I left my case off as it is a bit of a hassel try to get it on and off haha. Might do a clear cover though.

 You're most welcome!. I really enjoy the D1 and want to keep this thread going!


----------



## HumanSaurusRex

I'm looking for a new desktop amp/dac combo and would like to know if anyone of you would rate a maverick d1 over a fiio e17/e09k combo.


----------



## Shroker

Quote: 





humansaurusrex said:


> I'm looking for a new desktop amp/dac combo and would like to know if anyone of you would rate a maverick d1 over a fiio e17/e09k combo.


 
  I've never tried the e17 combo and what not so I don't really know what to say in that aspect but if you're willing to muck arond with getting the case off on the D1 and getting a nice tube and the SUN HDAM from audio-gd. It is a really nice unit.


----------



## coderts

Hello everyone!
  I'm interested in this device and have some questions:
  1) I'm planning to connect DAC with my PC via USB. As i know USB-implementation in Maverick Audio D1 is worse than in almost same-priced Audio-GD NFB-12 / 15 (specifically current 15.32). But... i'm listening only 16 bit 44 khz CD-rips. Will i find a difference in USB implementations in such case?
  2) How does D1 sound from headphone output in comparison to Audio-GD NFB-12 / 15 or another Audio-GD? I read here positive comparison of D2 and Audio-GD NFB-12 only as a DAC, but D1 has another DAC-chip and there are no tube-magic on headphone output  Can anyone describe its sound with headphones?
  3) I have rather good speakers (JBL S26CH) and need a good dac-out/preamp for my amplifier (HK AVR132 receiver now). Can D1 beat NFB-12 dac-out in this component? As i see in review by John Darko it's possible: 4 stars for D1 and 3.5 stars for NFB-12.
  Thanks for your response.


----------



## etys rule

Let's revive the dead. I have a Maverick D1 + on the way from Asia and I am also expecting a NFB-12 from another member to arrive any day now.
   
  Once I have had time to get these pieces up and running, I'll be happy to answer any questions. Just so you know, I've upgraded the opamps and also the tube. But I went one step further and ordered a WE 386A JAN Military spec tube from eBay for $65. I just had to know how it sounded as the reviews were quite impressive.
   
  More to come later in the week. Oh, did I mention I also ordered the V90 from Violectric.
   
  This weekend is gonna be a hoot at my house. Neighbors are in for a treat.


----------



## Shroker

Haha. Wicked etys!

 I have the WE 396A and it is very nice. 
 Currently paired wit the audiogd SUN HDAM and yyum.


----------



## ilikepooters

Swapped out the LF353N Op-amps, rolled in some OPA2134's, massive improvement, soundstage much bigger and everything is more detailed, like lifting a veil.
   
  Next i'll look into swapping some capacitors.


----------



## Shroker

I want to swap / put in bigger caps but don;t jnow where to start....or what to do.. ><. Did it with my X-Can V2 but not sure what to do with the D1.

 I wonder how the OPA2134's compare to the Audio-gd SUN HDAM.


----------



## ACDOAN

Quote: 





shroker said:


> I want to swap / put in bigger caps but don;t jnow where to start....or what to do.. ><. Did it with my X-Can V2 but not sure what to do with the D1.
> 
> I wonder how the OPA2134's compare to the Audio-gd SUN HDAM.


 
   Some one already revived this thread from the death, so I may well want to ask if :
   
  1. Does the D1 pop when on/off or switch inputs as some reviewers stated ?
  2. I need a DAC/ PRE with variable output for my power studio monitor, I am looking at the Schiit Lyr and this one. Of course the Lyr is just a tube headphone amp with analog variable ouput without a DAC. My CDP is pretty good as far as I know, should I get the Lyr or the D1 for my power studio monitor in term of SQ and build?
  3. For SS ouput, has anyone compare the D1 with the AudioEngine D1?


----------



## Chris5488

Talking about some opamps: I first bought a LT1364 as DAC and a LM4562NA as H-amp. Were a nice improvement but after a while I wanted something better. Thought OPA627's were the deal (for DAC and H-amp). They weren't better (nor worse) but just different. The OPA627 as DAC was a bit more detailled than the LT1364, but the LT1364 was a bit warmer and some extra bass. The OPA627 as H-amp was a slight downgrade from the LM4562NA, but my LM4562NA made some slight ticking/popping in the background when no sound/music is playing so I wont be using my LM again since it might be failing (it didn't used to do this).


----------



## Shroker

I ended up getting the SUN HDAM. They have extension leads for you to stuff the HDAM inside the case if you want to closer her up.
 Abosutely amazing addition to the D1.


----------



## Chris5488

Quote: 





shroker said:


> I ended up getting the SUN HDAM. They have extension leads for you to stuff the HDAM inside the case if you want to closer her up.
> Abosutely amazing addition to the D1.


 
   
  Does the SUN really fits inside that case? I also thought it was used as the DAC, not the H-amp.


----------



## Shroker

there are two slots in the D1. one for the Hamp one ofr the tube out.


----------



## Chris5488

Quote: 





shroker said:


> there are two slots in the D1. one for the Hamp one ofr the tube out.


 
   
  Yes I know but I'm searching for a new opamp for the H-amp section since I already have a LT1364 in the DAC section. My question was if the Sun can be used in the H-amp section? Anyone tried this?
   
_Edit after the answer below: Oh, ok thanks! _


----------



## Shroker

That is what I was saying but didn't word properly. the SUN HDAM can be used in the h-amp. which is why I only bought one as I never use both simeutaneously.


----------



## Chris5488

Ok turns out my headphone jack is failing. Most of the time I only hear sound on the left channel, wobbling the plug helps but trying to find the sweet spot is not easy.
   
  I'm a total noob when it comes to soldering and I don't know anyone who is able to fix this. Rather then paying someone to fix it I think about getting a new DAC/H-amp. Was thinking about upgrading to the NuForce Icon HDP anyway.


----------



## cel4145

I just picked up the Tube Magic D1 from another head-fier (got if for $125--yippeee!). 

Here is a strange thing that happened. I plugged up the USB, and the sound got processed the Xonar Uni driver control panel (I a Xonar D1 in the computer). I could implement effects and everything, but sounded like crap. Switched to optical running of the main motherboard audio. OH so much better, the way I expected it to sound 

I know. I need to remove the Xonar and the drivers. Just thought someone might be interested in this rather curious side effect.


----------



## angfonz

I recently inherited a TubeMagic D1 Plus Edition when my brother upgraded.
  
 Is this compatable with my Samsung Galaxy S3? 

 Is there a way to use this only as a DAC for the S3, and not an amplifier? I have a pair of Aktimate Mini + powered speakers and have been told that bad things happen if I were to add an amplifier to the mix.
  
 Thanks in advance!


----------



## cel4145

angfonz said:


> I recently inherited a TubeMagic D1 Plus Edition when my brother upgraded.
> 
> Is this compatable with my Samsung Galaxy S3?
> 
> ...




That's pretty cool to get that dac/pre-amp/headphone amp from your brother 

Samsung Galaxy S3 has usb audio out capability. If you buy a USB OTG cable (check this thread to learn more), should work if it's going to work. So for $10 you can find out.

Otherwise, if it doesn't work, you can run the headphone out from your S3 into the analog line inputs on the TubeMagic. Probably a bit better SQ if you can use the DAC in the TubeMagic via USB from the S3, but it won't hurt anything to try the S3 hooked up that way. If you like the sound, all is good. Plus, you could plug your S3 in so it is charging when using it using the headphone out, instead of going off battery (which you would have to do if using the USB connection). 

And yes. There are both a line out and pre-amp out on the TubeMagic that you can plug your speakers into. The line out bypasses the pre-amp--direct from the DAC. The pre-amp out goes through a tube pre-amp and allows you to control the volume from the TubeMagic. Try both and see what sounds better to you.


----------



## angfonz

Is there a DAP that is better suited for this setup? Samsung Galaxy S3>D1>Aktimate Mini + active speaker.
  
 I broke the S3's screen a while back and upgraded my phone. I figured I could use it as a relatively high capacity DAP with touchscreen and wifi - but its quite a bummer to not be able to keep it charging while in use with the OTG cable. Furthermore, its a 250 dollar screen I'd have to put on it to make it functional. 
  
 If there is something cheaper and better than that 250 dollar repair job, Id consider that instead.
  
 Maybe off topic. Thanks guys.


----------



## cel4145

angfonz said:


> Is there a DAP that is better suited for this setup? Samsung Galaxy S3>D1>Aktimate Mini + active speaker.
> 
> I broke the S3's screen a while back and upgraded my phone. I figured I could use it as a relatively high capacity DAP with touchscreen and wifi - but its quite a bummer to not be able to keep it charging while in use with the OTG cable. Furthermore, its a 250 dollar screen I'd have to put on it to make it functional.
> 
> If there is something cheaper and better than that 250 dollar repair job, Id consider that instead.




if you want something cheaper that would work well and could go with something a little larger, you could pick up a used netbook off Craiglist.


----------



## djnagle

Hi All.  A long time ago, I had the Maverick D1 but things changed and I ended up selling it.  Well things have changes again so I need to get another DAC.  My D1 was the first version.  Has it changed much since then?  Is it still a good deal?  Thanks D.


----------



## music25

Hey all -
  
 Is the conventional wisdom that the D1 should be powered off when not in use?


----------



## uncola

I would, otherwise you're wasting electricity.. it adds up $$$


----------



## cel4145

music25 said:


> Hey all -
> 
> Is the conventional wisdom that the D1 should be powered off when not in use?




I would think so. The tube in the pre-amp does have a use life. From what I have read, it will last a lot longer than a tube in an amp, but I would think you would still be shortening its life by leaving it on all the time.


----------



## zeniksi

What is the output impedance to head phone jack in D1 Plus + OPA627 upgrade? I want to calculate damping factor.


----------



## rlust

I am having the same issue with the headphone jack.  Did you resolve your issue?
  
 Mine will work for a few when cold then right channel stops.
  
 Thanks!


----------



## Shroker

Double Triode Russian 6N3P-DR
 Great little buggers! I love them. A little bit more sharper / treble then the WE 396A but great clarity and punch. I'm not very techinicla in the description of the sound but I would definitely recommend these.
  
  
 The ones I have come in the red blue Russian tube box with rusted staples .
 Delivered from Russia. The DR stating military grade/version "Durability"


----------



## BabylonDown

Looks like this is the DAC/AMP I will be getting. These seem quite pricey new though and not many used ones floating around.
  
 Seems like the perfect start to an external amp. I'm hoping to hear an improvement over my Asus Xense sound card.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Anyone here have experience with the HE-400 and the D1 together?


----------



## snowshoe

Hi all,
  
 I only just got the D1+ from another head-fier and am curious about some of the mods. I've already adjusted the volume control for the pre out (I am also using this with the Magni). Now I'm interested in trying out the OPA627 opamps. As I was looking into this mod, I came across some info on a Class A biasing mod that people have been doing on the Matrix M-Stage. This is not my area of expertise at all, so forgive me if the answer is as obvious as my nose: would the class A mod would work on the D1+ too? It is possible to buy the OPA627s with the biasing mod already done, btw.


----------



## VTHokie83

Anyone interested in buying a Maverick Audio TubeMagic A1 amp, D1 or D1Plus Dac/Amp, or the D2 DAC....price considerations. Maverick Audio has always offered upgraded OPA627 OpAmps and NOS GE 5670W tubes for their line, but they tended to be a bit expensive compared to mods you could do on your own. It looks like they've taken notice, and started offering package pricing with the mods on their products across the board.
  
 The link is http://mav-audio.com/store/
  
 Additionally they are offering an additional $15 off any product using the check out code "15OFF". I just picked up a D2 DAC with all upgrades and shipping for under $300, after the $15 off. A bit less than it would have been a few months ago.


----------



## TunneLVisioN42

So I bought a D1 Plus that comes with 2 OPA 627's 1 in the left most socket and 1 in the right most socket, as well as a GE5670w in the tube, this unit gets most of its use outputting to my KRK ROKIT 5's and I have a few questions I hope someone can help me with?

 I find the unit a bit to laid back and warm, I notice vocals seem "In the back" (I will often get frustrated when watching movies or more vocal works and the vocals just sound so removed)  I guess it just seems too relaxed and bloomy, are there better opamps I could be using to sound more neutral and detailed and snappy? my KRK's are already warmly tilted

 Which sockets affect which parts of the unit? there are 3 opamp sockets, is the left the outputs on the back? the middle the Dac? and the right the headphone port?

 Im not currently using the tube out because like I said my monitors already sound too warm and bloomy, I'm just using the normal RCA Out, could replacing the tube with another and then using the tube out help me accomplish what I am looking for?

 Thank you!


----------



## diphaloraptor

Sorry for being completely new to the forums but here it goes. I have a pair of Beyer DT 770 pro (80 ohm), Sennheiser HD 280, Onkyo TX-8555 receiver, pair of Cerwin Vega LS-12, and a pair of EPI-100 as well as an audioengine D1 DAV and Fiio E11. I just acquired the D1 and was further looking into DAC's when I stumbled on the Maveric tubemagic D1. I am really interested in the possibility of listening to a tube pre-amp and being able to switch around the tubes. As you can tell from my set up, Im relatively new and money does make a difference for me. My question is, should I stick with the audioengine I already have, switch to a tubemagic D1 or look into the Schiit Modi which is cheap and has gotten rave reviews. If I went with the tubemagic, how hard is it to find good tubes? Also, is having the tube amp worth it, I have heard many great things, and I love the organic nature of the sound (how it changes from tube to tube)? Is there a better tube DAC/pre amp than the tubemagic for around the same price? Im sorry for a convoluted post but I am trying to learn the ropes here. 
  
 edit: My main listening is done with the DT 770 or the speakers.


----------



## VTHokie83

Tunnelvision,
  
 I too am new to tubes, it's been about 4 months for me. I had a similar choice as you, I have a headphone system and a stereo system. I originally thought the D1 would be the best of both worlds, and purchased it to feed a Bob Latino tube amp and the built-in headphone amp for Sennheiser HD558 and Grado SR80i headphones.
  
 Without boring you to death with the details, I ultimately was not happy with the entire system......it just felt "off", and I could not always put my finger on why. I tried a bunch of solutions, but ultimately help actually came from Ryan in tech support at Maverick. I will paste his response to me for my problem.
  
 ~~If that's the case, D2 is clearly the best DAC for you for the sake of the sound quality. Honestly, I am not a "believer" of upsampling, D2 is not an upsampling DAC, it sounds better than the D1 Plus which is an upsampling DAC. You will feel the music is more 3-dimensional and sound stage is wider if you compare the D2 to the D1 Plus. Also, you don't really need headphone amplifier, volume control and analog inputs on the D1 plus, as you are pairing the DAC with tube amplifier. By having less "features" will improve the sound quality as well.~~
  
 So what I took from Maverick's response (and honesty) is that: The D1 has compromises in it because it is designed as a "Swiss army knife" product, and that it does many things well.....but nothing very well. To me that made sense, the D1 is designed as a DAC, up sampler, tube buffer, pre-amp, and headphone amp all in one unit....some compromises were made for the sake of price and size, and it shows up in the sound.
  
 The D2 on the other hand is designed as a "no sacrifice for the money" DAC only unit. If it does not improve the sound and function of the D2, it is not in the unit. No pre-amp, no up sampler, no headphone amp....just superior components.
  
 In the end Maverick swapped out my D1 for a D2 DAC and I matched it to a Schiit Magni headphone amp, and all I have to say is "holy *****". All of the previous problems were gone; detail, punch, clarity, openness, instrument placement, black background....all present. I really would recommend that you reach out to Maverick tech support, just to get their feedback. I've found them very helpful. Best of luck and I hope my experience can be helpful.


----------



## Shroker

That has me quite interesting. I have a D1 with swapped out tubes and swappd out DAC.

 I have been considering a D2 and just pop the lid off and do what I did with the D1 to the D2. I dno't use the HP output, nor the line in or out anymore unless I take it on the go with me.

 It already sounds spectacular with the way I have it set up so I am curious if it will be even better.

 I have a SUN HDAM and WE 396A tube.


----------



## VTHokie83

Shroker,
  
 I had that too, in my zeal I had purchased some extra OpAmp packages (OP637, Burson, and Linear Technologies) and NOS 5670s (Raytheon, Sylvania, and Tesla tubes....and a more expensive "gold" pin NOS tube as well) before I even had the damn thing broken in. Finding a solution with the D2 meant I could keep all of that for tube/OpAmp rolling later.
  
 I would love to offer up a review at some point soon, but I have way too many variables right now, with rectifier and driver tubes in the Bob Latino ST-120 tube amp, cables, and the D2 options OpAmp and tubes. At some point when things calm down I'll do a D2 piece and post here.


----------



## VTHokie83

Diphaloraptor,
  
 For more of my experience, you can see my earlier post to tunnelvision. I'm not sure a D1 would be any more beneficial to you than what you already have in place. The Audioengine is a very good "all in one" unit, but suffers from the same drawbacks that a D1 does....it tries to do everything in a small package at a small price. My experience is that is just not possible, and I made the decision to go with a separate DAC and headphone amp.
  
 The Schiit Modi is a very good DAC for the money, but it is limited to USB input only and only has 1 audio output.... and is a solid state DAC, no tubes to roll. The Schiit Bitfrost is an excellent DAC, and has all of the inputs, but is not a tube DAC and you are limited to rolling OpAmps. There are excellent options from Topping, Audio GD, Odac, and Emotiva as well.....but same there as well.
  
 I settled on the Maverick D2 because I could roll OpAmps and tubes, NOS 5670 tubes are easily found on ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=6570+tube&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1311.R1.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.X5670+tube&_nkw=5670+tube&_sacat=0 and it has all of the inputs I could want, and it has two analog output stages, one pure solid state and one tube
  
 I'm driving the headphones with a Schiit Magni headphone amp
  
 You mentioned that money is a consideration, but if it weren't then the holy grail might be a Woo Audio WA7 fireflies. Hope this helps some


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Sorry if I'm interrupting a conversation but can anyone tell me whether you can 'mute' the RCA-out to speakers when a headphone is plugged into the front of the D1 Plus? I want to run my powered speakers via something like the TubeMagic and my headphones as well, but I don't want to have to pull the RCA cables out whenever I want to mute the sound and listen through headphones. Thoughts?


----------



## VTHokie83

AG,
  
 No interruption, but I'll be no help here as I've swapped out the D1


----------



## diphaloraptor

VTHokie83
  
 Thank you for the pointers, that definitely helps. I will scrap the D1 and add the D2 to my consideration, any chance you are still selling your D2 and would like to make a deal for a newbie  otherwise, has anyone had any experience or knowledge regarding the Indeed G3, Little Dot Mk2 or 3, Muse TU-20 or DarkVoice 336 SE? All of those have pretty favorable reviews, although the downside to the little dok and darkvoice is that they are running more than a single tube, but its not a deal breaker.


----------



## VTHokie83

Diphaloraptor, no on the D2, it is staying in the system as my main DAC.....I love it
  
 You originally stated that you were on a budget, and some of the components you listed are very good, but not necessarily cheap. Other components are cheap, but may not be that good.
  
 The Indeed/Little Bear/Qinpu/Bravo/Aune/Miridiy is an entry level kit headphone amp with all Chinese components and varied results at best, I doubt that it would stay as your "go to' amp for long. I borrowed one from a fellow audiophile and was not impressed; hollow, too laid back, not involving, no soundstage....your mileage may vary.
  
 The DarkVoice 336SE is well thought of, though I have not had a chance to audition one. I tested a 3322 model and loved it, just wasn't ready to spend the money on it at the time
  
 If you want to try some high end Chinese amps then Yaqin has several headphone amps, and some well thought of. Yaqins can be found on eBay or Amazon or several specialized Chinese exporters. A good choice may be some of the Meixing MingDa headphone amps, though they are hard to find recently since they've raised prices recently and have been dropped by many resellers....best bet here would be eBay. Also Shenzhen Audio has Yaqin, Little Dot, and DarkVoice amps and is a good place to research different Chinese amps. Again here they are no longer selling the MingDa, which is a shame. Shenzhen is nice because they carry the entire line of each of the Chinese amps, and they are all in stock. I personally may try one of Yaqin headphone amps once I get my stereo amplifier tubes, interconnects, and speaker cables dialed in.
  
 The Little Dot does have some good reviews, and some mixed reviews, and has had some quality and customer service issues along the way. The customer service issue does not seem to be limited to Little Dot, rather may be across the board with Chinese based products.......as long as you go into it informed of that. May be a very fun choice for a first tube amp, and you can have fun tube rolling while getting good sound without breaking the bank.
  
 Here is a link to a very nice list of tube headphone amps, but be prepared most are way out of your suggested price range. http://www.head-fi.org/t/402585/review-summary-a-ranking-of-32-tube-and-tube-hybrid-headphone-amps
  
 Some others to consider that are hybrid or tube: $550 Woo Audio WA6 (expensive but may be your last headphone amp), $200 Maverick Audio A1, $120 Schiit Vali or $350 Schiit Valhalla


----------



## diphaloraptor

VTHokie83 its a shame you dont want to separate from your D2 but its completely understandable. Also, thanks for all of the information, I have decided against Indeed and similar because of the many issues and too much DYI for my knowledge. 
  
 Otherwise I have heard really good things about Schiit products and they are a strong consideration (biggest problem, i really want the styling with exposed bulbs, I know its a dumb request because sound quality > looks but i would like both). 
  
 I am currently looking at the little dot mk1+, and yeah i was aware that there have been some issues (not too many) but then again they are a Chinese manufacturer and most reviews are quite favorable. I also like that it is quite cheap and has many tube rolling options, which is something im quite interested in. 
  
 If I could get a DV336 for cheap, I would def go with that. But thanks for all the help, I feel much better about my choices.


----------



## intlsubband

Does the "normal" analog out represent the analog signal out of the DAC but not amped?
 
I'm trying to figure if the D1 can be used as a dedicated dac, connected to a different headphones amp.
 
Thanks!


----------



## Shroker

The normal analog out is striaght from the DAC and not through the tube.
 The pre-amp goes DAC-> Tube -> out.


----------



## intlsubband

shroker said:


> The normal analog out is striaght from the DAC and not through the tube.
> 
> The pre-amp goes DAC-> Tube -> out.




Thanks Shroker! That was my impression but i wasnt sure.

Im setting up a first-time budget-yet-quality home headphones setup, with some good 2nd hand gear. I have an opportunity to get a cheap 2nd hand unit, which i'll connect to a corda concerto amp.


----------



## VTHokie83

Intlsubband,
  
 Shroker is correct,
 There are the two analog output stages in the D2. There is a typical direct digital to analog output stage (labeled "Normal"), as well as a digital to analog by way of tube stage (labeled "Tube Pre Out"). Both stages can benefit from upgrades either through OpAmp or tubes.
  
 These are directly from Maverick support pages:
  
 "Carefully designed analog processing circuit - Without a good analog stage, even the best quality digital music will sound dry and lifeless. After all, music will only be played in analog format via amplifiers, speakers and headphones. We spent a great deal of time to enhance the analog circuit to make sure the analog signal will sound natural, transparent and full detail."
  
 “TubeMagic” vacuum tube preamp outputs stage - The TubeMagic D2 comes with a vacuum tube pre-amp output stage in addition to the normal solid-state audio output. Powered by a vintage vacuum tube made in 1970’s, it adds a lot of warmth and smoothness to the music, especially to Vocal and Jazz genres. Furthermore, you can use this DAC as a full functional tube preamp, adding the “tube magic” to the four digital inputs."
  
 I hope that answers your questions.


----------



## VTHokie83

Instlsubband,
  
 "Does the "normal" analog out represent the analog signal out of the DAC but not amped?"
  
 Did not see this portion of your post.....the D2 is a DAC only unit, it has no amp output stage.


----------



## intlsubband

vthokie83 said:


> Intlsubband,
> 
> Shroker is correct,
> There are the two analog output stages in the D2. There is a typical direct digital to analog output stage (labeled "Normal"), as well as a digital to analog by way of tube stage (labeled "Tube Pre Out"). Both stages can benefit from upgrades either through OpAmp or tubes.
> ...


 
  
  


vthokie83 said:


> Instlsubband,
> 
> "Does the "normal" analog out represent the analog signal out of the DAC but not amped?"
> 
> Did not see this portion of your post.....the D2 is a DAC only unit, it has no amp output stage.


 
  
 Thanks heaps VTHokie83, I am getting the D1 with the upgraded tube, 2nd hand from ebay. I realise that the D2 is a dedicated DAC, but will be using the D1 as mostly a DAC.
  
 So yes, I did get my answer - connecting to the "normal" RCA out will use the D1 as a DAC only.
  
 Another question that I have is whether I should try connecting my amp to the RCA tube out as well? or would this be double amping and bad for the SQ and possibly bad for my amp?


----------



## VTHokie83

Intlsubband,
  
 This will be "double pre-amping" on the D1 and I have no experience on this with either the D1 or D2. I might suggest sending an email to Maverick tech support to get a better answer to your question, I've found them very responsive and helpful with any question I've sent to them.
  
 When I was using the D1 I used the internal headphone amp to drive Sennheiser HD558 and Graco SR80i headphones, and I connected either of the analog stages to a Bob Latino VTA ST-120 tube amp.....I found that the "normal" stage combined best with the Latino amp.
  
 When I upgraded to my current configuration with the D2, I use the "normal" output to feed the Latino amp and the "tube pre out" to drive a Schiit Magni headphone amp.


----------



## B-Dawk20

Finally got a pair of HD650's! Can't wait to try them out with the D1.


----------



## icc900

Helpful...Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Sorbus

I'm considering D1 as my first DAC / headphone amp. Am I correct thinking that I could use the knob to control my active speaker's volume with basic model's knob, not with the plus version? Could I connect my KRK's to the tube out with rca-xlr or should I use the normal out?
  
 Sorry for the dumb questions, I'm new with these things.


----------



## elwappo99

sorbus said:


> I'm considering D1 as my first DAC / headphone amp. Am I correct thinking that I could use the knob to control my active speaker's volume with basic model's knob, not with the plus version? Could I connect my KRK's to the tube out with rca-xlr or should I use the normal out?
> 
> Sorry for the dumb questions, I'm new with these things.


 
  
 That's certainly not a dumb question. 
  
 1. The unit is capable of controlling the volume out on any D1 model by the volume knob.
 2. On the plus edition this is disabled because of concerns over sound quality degradation. You can easily enable it by taking the cover off and changing the pins on the inside to be variable volume control. This may seem a little bit overwhelming if you don't have experience, but it's really simple. 
 3. The KRK could be connected to either output on the back of the unit (tube or 'normal').


----------



## Sorbus

elwappo99 said:


> That's certainly not a dumb question.
> 
> 1. The unit is capable of controlling the volume out on any D1 model by the volume knob.
> 2. On the plus edition this is disabled because of concerns over sound quality degradation. You can easily enable it by taking the cover off and changing the pins on the inside to be variable volume control. This may seem a little bit overwhelming if you don't have experience, but it's really simple.
> 3. The KRK could be connected to either output on the back of the unit (tube or 'normal').


 
 Thank you for the ansvers 
  
 At another message board one D1+ user said that he didn't have to change anything inside the dac to make the volume knob work with his speakers. Guess I'll just find out what happens when I get the dac.


----------



## elwappo99

sorbus said:


> elwappo99 said:
> 
> 
> > That's certainly not a dumb question.
> ...


 
  
  
 no problem. Also forgot to say, Welcome to Head-fi! There's lots of interests in here, so feel free to hop onto threads and post and ask questions. We're pretty nice people (well, not all of us). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Some people requested that the pins be switched by Ryan before he sends them their unit. If you're buying it from Maverick audio or a decently knowledgeable seller, they shouldn't have an issue swapping those pins.


----------



## Sorbus

elwappo99 said:


> no problem. Also forgot to say, Welcome to Head-fi! There's lots of interests in here, so feel free to hop onto threads and post and ask questions. We're pretty nice people (well, not all of us).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Thanks for the warm welcoming, it's pretty uncommon in (at least in technology-oriented) internet forums. I had some problems with ground loop when I used rca, but connecting my KRKs with a 2 x xlr -> 3,5mm eliminated it. Does D1+ > rca > xlr have the same effect or should I just switch to rca > rca?


----------



## elwappo99

sorbus said:


> elwappo99 said:
> 
> 
> > no problem. Also forgot to say, Welcome to Head-fi! There's lots of interests in here, so feel free to hop onto threads and post and ask questions. We're pretty nice people (well, not all of us).
> ...


 
  
 We're generally a good community. Sometimes we get a little fiesty on certain, hot topics, or debates. 
  
 I'm not totally sure on that, because of your wires. The RCA and XLR are the same connection, but the XLR has an extra "shield" connector that prevents interference and feedback. It's possible that your RCA->XLR connector has that extra "shield" connected as well, which is why it eliminated the feedback your were getting. Either way, no harm in going RCA->XLR.


----------



## burdie

Guys, need your advice on my setup. My D1 (with opamps swap with LT1364CN8 and LM4562NA, and tube rolled with WE 396a) and i treat it as tube buffer between my CDP/DAC and integrated amp. There is no problem with integrated amp input set to tuner/line in, but if I change the amp input to CD in via the same RCA cable, the sound scatter and lack of bass, And if I connect directly from CDP/DAC to CD in of amp via the same RCA, the sound back to normal. So would it be that the tube rolling/opamps swapping somehow change the voltage of of tube amp out and the CD in cannot cope with it but line / tuner in able to accept it?


----------



## VTHokie83

Burdie,
  
 Unfortunately I have no experience with the setup of yours or problem that you are having. If I was to take a shot in the dark it would be the fact that the D1 uses "upsampling", and this is interfering with the data transmission. But as I said, I have no experience here. I would suggest contacting Ryan at Maverick audio, you can get to him either via the support website or by email.
  
 Support: http://www.mav-audio.com/base/support
  
 Email: info@mav-audio.com
  
 I have found him to be incredibly helpful and generous with his time. Keep us informed as to the outcome please, it helps us all.


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## burdie

Thanks for the advise. I think before I get help from Ryan, I will try to roll back to other tube, swapping other opamps and even try the SS RCA out to filter the possible causes.


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## VTHokie83

OK Burdie, best of luck and let us know how it settles out.


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## burdie

vthokie83 said:


> OK Burdie, best of luck and let us know how it settles out.


 
  
 Just some updates on some diagnostic actions taken so far
 1. Tube rolled back to stock one, with stocks opamps, still having noisy sound and weak bass on CD-in but fine on other inputs, so not the problem with tube and opamps. This was done with CDP coaxial out and notebook foobar2k over usb to matrix then line out to D1's both line in and analog in, then both SS and tube out to the amp
 2. CDP to D1 (no matrix dac) via analog/line in, no luck still have that noise in CD-in input but lesser than having matrix dac in between. However, using coaxial or usb to get digital signal from sources CD-in has NO noise at all.
 So i suspect is the line and analog in of D1 causing the noise, but why it only happened on CD-in but not on other inputs?  I then try to look for any ratings differences on the inputs from my yamaha amp service manual, i think i found the reason why CD-in produce noise, this is mainly due to the design of yamaha amp (correct me if i am wrong), the CD-in do not share the same circuit board with other inputs, it has dedicated board with some opamps soldered there at which yamaha claims to reproduce or amplified more details from the source signal (if i read it correctly) and hence it amplified the noise from D1 which might be from the analog in, this might explain why other inputs have so such noise.
 Now, back to the analog in, how do i ascertain that it is truely having noise which only an input of any amp having the so called better sounding can detect it. (ps i am not saying my yamaha amp is superior but in fact it capture the noise)


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## WiZLV

Maverick Audio D1 from box is better than Yulong U100?


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## Sorbus

Got mine today, seems to work alright! Haven't tested yet with my KRK monitors.


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## Talai

Would the TubeMagic D1 be sufficient to drive Mad Dogs?


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## VTHokie83

Talai,
  
 First off let me say I have never tried Mad Dogs with either of my two systems, a Maverick D1 or Maverick D2 DAC/Schiit Magni combo (my current setup).
  
 Based on your post, my assumption is that you have the straight "Mad Dogs", and not the "Alpha Dogs". If so (and my assumption is you have the units based on the Fostek T20/40/50RP) then the impedance is 50Ohms. That being the case, then the Maverick D1 is more than adequate to drive the Mad Dogs. Hope this helps.


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## azooz

..................


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## azooz

TubeMagic _D1 Plus_ DAC
  
  i am going to use it with DT 990 PRO
  
 is It capable of feeding to the fullest ?
  
 Thanks


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## VTHokie83

azooz,
  
 First off, I never auditioned the DT990 Pro with the Maverick Audio D1.....so I cannot relate to you a personal listening experience.
  
 The most common DT990 Pro cans have a 250 Ohm impedence, some older units were also a available in 32 Ohm and 600 Ohm versions I believe. The Maverick D1 has the following published power output: 32 Ohm 1000MW, 300 Ohm 500MW, and 600 Ohm 300MW. so it sounds as if the D1 would work  very well with the DT990s.....in fact Byerdynamic's own A2 and A20 headphone amps have these power outputs 100 mW 600Ω,170 mW 250Ω,150 mW 32Ω. I do understand that ability to drive a certain resistance is not the only way to measure an amp, I surmise that the D1 would drive the 990s to deafening levels without distortion.
  
 Before purchasing though, I would contact Ryan at Maverick to get his take on the pairing....I found him to be responsive, helpful, and honest in his responses back to me; one more reason I purchased two units from his company (D1 and D2 DAC). You can contact him at http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/ask-questions or info@mav-audio.com.
  
Please keep us updated on your progress.


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## sweetsuicides

Hi everybody!
  Thanks to everybody for the dedication in making a better world for good audio enthusiasts.
  My question is:
  I read on the beginning of the thread that the DAC section inputs downsamples everything to 16bit 48MHz. Does the D1 PlusEdition still suffer from this? Thank you in advance for your replies!


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## VTHokie83

Sweetsuicides, I believe the following is true.....if not please correct me.
  
 The D1 and D1 Plus "upsample" not "downsample".
  
 The standard D1 handles 24bit/96khz data in native mode as long as the input is via the coax or optical digital connections, USB input is  16bit/48khz,,,,,,anything other than that will be upsampled to 24bit/96khz I believe.
  
 The D1 Plus handles 24bit/196khz in native via the coax or optical digital input, and will upsample lesser input to 196khz, USB input is 24bit/96khz.


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## sweetsuicides

Thank you
VTHokie83
 you have been extremely helpful!


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## sizzlincok

Upgraded to the D1 plus after so long.


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## bbond007

sorbus said:


> I'm considering D1 as my first DAC / headphone amp. Am I correct thinking that I could use the knob to control my active speaker's volume with basic model's knob, not with the plus version? Could I connect my KRK's to the tube out with rca-xlr or should I use the normal out?
> 
> Sorry for the dumb questions, I'm new with these things.


 
  
 After you place the order you'll get a conformation email and you can reply to that email with any special requests.
  
 I took that opportunity to requested that my TubeMagic D1+ be configured so that the volume control knob controls RCA output in addition to headphone output. Ryan from Mav-audio replied back and said that he would do that for me   
  
 I am using it with a set of Audio Engine A2 powered speakers on the tube pre-out. They (the A2) do have a volume knob but its located on the back of the speaker. 
  
 The sound is really nice.  A2 never sounded better.


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## Tamirci

One local guy offered me an exchange of 2-3 months old Mav D1 to my Matrix M-Stage. I am using hd650 as hp, Qls Qa360 as transport. It has line out, optical out coax out features.

So guys, would it be fair and worthwhile?


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## autiofile

My D1 is louder on the left channel. Anything I can do?


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## goodyfresh

How would the D1 Plus do with something like IEM's or low-impedance sensitive headphones?  Like, say, my Trinity Delta IEM's with 16ohm impedance and 110dB sensitivity?  Would there be background hiss/noise?  Or would I have to set the volume-pot so low as to create a channel imbalance?

 And hold up.  Will it even be using the tube if I use the headphone-out from it?


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## Rhamnetin

goodyfresh said:


> How would the D1 Plus do with something like IEM's or low-impedance sensitive headphones?  Like, say, my Trinity Delta IEM's with 16ohm impedance and 110dB sensitivity?  Would there be background hiss/noise?  Or would I have to set the volume-pot so low as to create a channel imbalance?
> 
> And hold up.  Will it even be using the tube if I use the headphone-out from it?


 
  
 I'd expect there to be noise with IEMs.  The tube is only used for the preamp out, not headphone out.


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## goodyfresh

rhamnetin said:


> I'd expect there to be noise with IEMs.  The tube is only used for the preamp out, not headphone out.


 
 Well then nevermind on wanting to buy it, sheesh, if I can't get the "tube-sound" from the headphone out I have no interest in the product, haha.  Thank you for the info!


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## PinkyPowers

Some IEMs are fine. My Klipsch X7i (50 Ohm) are great. My ATH-IM03 (34 Ohm) get a bit muddled and grungy. As does Angie (14 Ohm).

So, stay away from low-impedance and the D1 Plus.

But since you have already changed your mind on the matter...


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## goodyfresh

pinkypowers said:


> Some IEMs are fine. My Klipsch X7i (50 Ohm) are great. My ATH-IM03 (34 Ohm) get a bit muddled and grungy. As does Angie (14 Ohm).
> 
> So, stay away from low-impedance and the D1 Plus.
> 
> But since you have already changed your mind on the matter...


 
 Again, thanks for the info.  But yeah, the whole reason I'd get this to begin with would be as a cheap way to get "an intro to tube-sound."  So if it won't be using the tube foer the headphone output, it's useless to me anyways, as I was saying above


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## pwoznic

autiofile said:


> My D1 is louder on the left channel. Anything I can do?


 

 Mine just started doing the same thing yesterday (D1 Plus with all upgrades) with my active monitors (headphones are fine).. I tried both the regular outputs and tube outputs. The left channel sounds fine, but the right channel is very quiet all of a sudden (on both regular R and tube R). I just got this thing like 2 weeks ago.
  
 Edit 10/30/15: The problem just went away after a few days of my initial post... not sure why but I hope it doesn't return.


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## Eddy Flycatcher

I don't know if this is the right thread, but I have owned a Tubemagic D1 plus for some time now, but tonight I connected my Fiio X5 for the first time via a coaxial cable, and now there are these strange crackling pops when I start an album and in between tracks, I'm shure it's not the Fiio since I also own a Meier Symphony, and when I connect the Fiio to that (via coax) there are no crackling pops. The Fiio connected via line-out to the D1 is OK.


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## Rhamnetin

eddy flycatcher said:


> I don't know if this is the right thread, but I have owned a Tubemagic D1 plus for some time now, but tonight I connected my Fiio X5 for the first time via a coaxial cable, and now there are these strange crackling pops when I start an album and in between tracks, I'm shure it's not the Fiio since I also own a Meier Symphony, and when I connect the Fiio to that (via coax) there are no crackling pops. The Fiio connected via line-out to the D1 is OK.


 
  
 Crackling pops are normal for the D1 due to the lack of muting relays.


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## Eddy Flycatcher

Aha! I didn't know that! Thanks for the info Rhamnetin.


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## jay628

I have a Modi and Asgard 2 right now but is looking for a new DAC for my computer system.
 Is the A1 Plus significantly better than the Modi?
 Can I connect it to my Asgard 2 then to my active speakers? What happens when I plug in my headphone while the speaker is playing?


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## sweetsuicides

pwoznic said:


> Mine just started doing the same thing yesterday (D1 Plus with all upgrades) with my active monitors (headphones are fine).. I tried both the regular outputs and tube outputs. The left channel sounds fine, but the right channel is very quiet all of a sudden (on both regular R and tube R). I just got this thing like 2 weeks ago.
> 
> Edit 10/30/15: The problem just went away after a few days of my initial post... not sure why but I hope it doesn't return.


 
  
 Hi, same here. I have also wasted money on an amp that I dumped because I suspected it to be the cause of the issue. Now I have a pair of high impedance headphones and I have this behavior with different sources and on all outputs. I am writing to the customer care to see if they have any idea on where the issue is and how it can be solved.
 The issue, in my case is not going away.
  
 Cheers,
 sweetsuicide


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## sweetsuicides

sweetsuicides said:


> Hi, same here. I have also wasted money on an amp that I dumped because I suspected it to be the cause of the issue. Now I have a pair of high impedance headphones and I have this behavior with different sources and on all outputs. I am writing to the customer care to see if they have any idea on where the issue is and how it can be solved.
> The issue, in my case is not going away.
> 
> Cheers,
> sweetsuicide


 
  
 Ok, I found a thread of someone having the same issue on a D1 regular. The guy says that by moving around the cables inside the cabinet the contact moves and the situation changes. I opened the chassis and tried to straighten out all of the contacts inside. This actually fixed the issue. My suspicion is that that "cheap" (but necessary in an industrial project) pin connectors are not always the best solution. If someone is capable enough, removing the plastic contacts and soldering them directly on the board would solve all those issues.
  
 Cheers,
 sweetsuicide


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## pwoznic

sweetsuicides said:


> Ok, I found a thread of someone having the same issue on a D1 regular. The guy says that by moving around the cables inside the cabinet the contact moves and the situation changes. I opened the chassis and tried to straighten out all of the contacts inside. This actually fixed the issue. My suspicion is that that "cheap" (but necessary in an industrial project) pin connectors are not always the best solution. If someone is capable enough, removing the plastic contacts and soldering them directly on the board would solve all those issues.
> 
> Cheers,
> sweetsuicide


 

 I have not had the problem return since, but in case it does, I was thinking about what you just said. By fixing the contacts, do you mean opening up the unit and tightening the inputs?


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## sweetsuicides

pwoznic said:


> I have not had the problem return since, but in case it does, I was thinking about what you just said. By fixing the contacts, do you mean opening up the unit and tightening the inputs?



I just Jean opening up and moving the pins a little with pliers. I know it sounds very generic, but that's what I did. Mostra of mine looked bent.


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## pwibbs

Question about OP Amp- does an upgraded op amp on the DAC improve audio output through tube stage, or is this only for the solid state output?


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## pwibbs

I am wondering what benefit upgraded op amps provide for this unit. My understanding is that there are two, one for the DAC and one for the headphone out. My question is does the op amp for the DAC provide any benefit when using the tube pre out. Apologies for the specificity of the question. As a new member, this is the only place I can post.


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## pwoznic

sweetsuicides said:


> I just Jean opening up and moving the pins a little with pliers. I know it sounds very generic, but that's what I did. Mostra of mine looked bent.


 

 The right-side-sounding-weak problem returned today, but I remembered your post, and I opened up the unit. I didn't notice anything out of place or loose, but I just pushed in every connection that I saw and it worked.


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## sweetsuicides

pwoznic said:


> The right-side-sounding-weak problem returned today, but I remembered your post, and I opened up the unit. I didn't notice anything out of place or loose, but I just pushed in every connection that I saw and it worked.


 
  
 Hello pwoznic, I am really glad this helped you! I am not, in any way, capable of understanding how a circuit works or the likes, but I have a colleague that worked in the electronics department many years ago. He explained to me that if you have very small solderings, like those white sockets (and there are many of them on the board), you are using a double connection where instead you should have all directly soldered on the board. If there is a really capable solderer that you know and you're not afraid of losing your equipment your should have all those sockets removed and all connections directly soldered. Bye pwoznic


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## atx2014

I bought a used D1+ with upgrades (made in 2015) and connected to the TV. however, it genrates noise whenever I change channels. My new D2 just arrived and it works just fine. Is the D1+ faulty?


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## atx2014

D1+ making noise when changing TV channels ... any ideas?
 purchased in 2015. how does maverick audio warranty work?


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## atx2014

anyone can tell me what tube it is? pic attached. 
  
 i purchased the upgrade, but i don't see any GE print on the tube.


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## Miiksu

atx2014 said:


> anyone can tell me what tube it is? pic attached.
> 
> i purchased the upgrade, but i don't see any GE print on the tube.


 
 Can you take better picture from the sides? Removing it from the socket would help to get better pics


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## streetfighter

Hey guys,
  
 I just got the D1 plus, I connected the unit to my powered desktop speakers via the 'tube out' rca's. However, when I plug my headphones in, the preouts do not mute. Is there a way to get the preouts to mute when headphones are plugged in?


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## PinkyPowers

streetfighter said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I just got the D1 plus, I connected the unit to my powered desktop speakers via the 'tube out' rca's. However, when I plug my headphones in, the preouts do not mute. Is there a way to get the preouts to mute when headphones are plugged in?




The best way to have control over your speakers and headphones separately, is something the Schiit SYS. Send the Tube Preamp signal into that, and use that to control your powered speakers.

When I upgraded to the NFB-28, I was very happy to find it had a button on the front to control which output would be playing, and I never had to buy a Schiit SYS. I had to reach around each speaker and power them On and Off by hand, before. Very annoying.


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## atx2014

i hear popping sound from d1 plus all the time whenever i change tv channels or chanege sources very annoying. now i bought a emotiva xda-2 to replace it and put it in my 2nd system that i rarely use.


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## brunovw572

Hi i am planning to buy this dac but i have a few questions. would be happy if someone could help me. I will be using this dac like that
  
                            *Computer ---------> Maverick Audio tube Magic ------> Luxman Solid State Amplifier ---------> Speakers*
  
 My question is about the output of the dac. As the dac uses opamp, will the output stage from the dac,  too powerful enough to damage the input of my amplifier.
  
 Will i be able to use the tube pre amp of the dac with my Amplifier ?


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## PinkyPowers

brunovw572 said:


> As the dac uses opamp, will the output stage from the dac,  too powerful enough to damage the input of my amplifier.




No. That is the whole point of pre-amp outputs. To go into another amp. The pre-amp outs can go to powered speakers, or an amplifier to drive passive speakers. You are good.


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## brunovw572

I just got a  look at the back of amp. There is aux 1 and 2, tuner, phono 1 and 2, Rec out deck 1 and rec out deck 2. No pre out available. will not be able to connect a preamp to my amp then. My amplifier is a luxman l85V


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## PinkyPowers

Why can't you plug it into your Aux In? 

An amp is meant to take a pre-amp signal. Why do you think they call it pre-amp?


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## brunovw572

i always thought that pre amps should be connected to pre amp of an amplifier so as to by pass the pre amp built in in the integrated amplifier as aux in accepts a certain level of input. i wanted to know if the output level of the dac will not be too high to be plugged in the aux in of my amp


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## PinkyPowers

Preamp is simply un-amped signal. It's Line-Out. Your Luxman can absolutely accept that. It wouldn't be an amp if it couldn't.


----------



## brunovw572

thanks pink power. will buy one. do you use this dac as i intend or just as a head phone dac


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## smc1234562000

pwoznic said:


> Mine just started doing the same thing yesterday (D1 Plus with all upgrades) with my active monitors (headphones are fine).. I tried both the regular outputs and tube outputs. The left channel sounds fine, but the right channel is very quiet all of a sudden (on both regular R and tube R). I just got this thing like 2 weeks ago.
> 
> Edit 10/30/15: The problem just went away after a few days of my initial post... not sure why but I hope it doesn't return.


 
  
  


autiofile said:


> My D1 is louder on the left channel. Anything I can do?


 
  
 For the problem above, please see fix below.
 Open the amp w/ Hex screws and screws at the bottom.
 Plug in the amp, turn it on.
 Plug in source, any cellphone w/ music
 Plug in your headphones
 Play the music.
  
 Now, behind the volume knob, there is a hole where you can put a hex screw in it.
 While holding the hex in place, adjust the volume knob, you'll find that you can adjust the balance L/R of the sound.
 Find the right volume balance. 
  
 When fix, good luck putting the cover back, its a pain. 
 Let me know if there is an easier way of putting it back. (Front panel, there is a piece of metal jutting that prevents the cover from sitting flush. Ugh!


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## loomisjohnson

probably a dumb question, but can i use both outputs simultaneously--i.e. one for the amp and one for a powered sub?


----------



## PinkyPowers

loomisjohnson said:


> probably a dumb question, but can i use both outputs simultaneously--i.e. one for the amp and one for a powered sub?




Why don't you run the sub off the amp?


----------



## loomisjohnson

pinkypowers said:


> Why don't you run the sub off the amp?


 
 no speaker level connection to sub


----------



## suburbanrobot

Yes you can use both simultaneously -- I use the tube out for a pair of active speakers, and the bypass out for a sub.  No problem.


----------



## loomisjohnson

TY


----------



## guldaen

Hey everyone,
  
 I've googled around quite a bit and taken a quick look through this thread, what is the actual rating of the fuse in this thing? Support isn't exactly swift to respond.
  
 btw love this DAC


----------



## loomisjohnson

friends:
 my d1, which i'm using as a dac and preamp through the tube preout, has developed a nasty hum. swapping power amps hasn't helped. my guess is there's a problem with the tube preout. so, a simple question (apologies if it's already been answered in this forum): can i use the solid state (normal preout) as a preamp, such that the volume control on the d1 will work?


----------



## manizkrishnan

Hello I recently bought D1+ dac. Which voltage Do i have to use?  I live in United States. It has 115v and 230v.


----------



## Rhamnetin

manizkrishnan said:


> Hello I recently bought D1+ dac. Which voltage Do i have to use?  I live in United States. It has 115v and 230v.



115v


----------



## boomslang06

what tube and opamp would you guys recommend for Phillips Fidelio  for best sound stage?


----------



## lior777

hello all, 
i won the d1 and have an amp so  can i make it only dac ?


----------



## Rhamnetin

lior777 said:


> hello all,
> i won the d1 and have an amp so  can i make it only dac ?



Yes it has preamp outputs and I think regular line out too.


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## fnsnyc

The D1 was my first 'upgrade' into a more serious headphone setup.
I still have a warm spot for it in my heart.


----------

