# PCB’s for HA-1 II and CROSS-1 for free!!



## PinkFloyd

Has anybody else ordered a board from Jan? I have and am really looking forward to building it, maybe if anyone else gets a board we can do an "online" build together with pictures and instructions etc. Seems a bloody good offer from Jan, way too good to pass on.


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## [AK]Zip

The amp is now done and running. She isn't cased up yet, but I will get around to that eventually. Either way here are pics and the BOM list.
















Excel BOM List

 AND for those of you who don't have Excel.
http://apuresound.com/head-fi/ha1/ha1b.jpg

 Please feel free to PM me if you have any question or concerns, but this amp works great! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-


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## a1rocketpilot

I also got in on this. My money is going out tomorrow. Doing an online build sure seems like a great idea. We can create a BOM for all the parts on here, I know I'm going to need one, at least for the amp. This should be an interesting project, a chance to build (and max) a great amp.


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## PinkFloyd

Yes. Just realised that there isn't a parts list on Jan's site, no worries we should be able to come up with something if we collaborate


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## a1rocketpilot

Also, what say we try and max out this? Black Gates and film caps all around (space permitting)?


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## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *a1rocketpilot* 
_Also, what say we try and max out this? Black Gates and film caps all around (space permitting)?_

 

Panasonic FM for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Black Gates not my cup of tea (too bloody expensive!) anyways, let's wait till the boards arrive before we start ordering up parts


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## [AK]Zip

I hate you guys. I just emailed him to see if he had any left over. If he does then I'm in. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I haven't decided if I am going to try and max it out with Blackgates or go with the Elna Cerafine or just build it with the Panasonic FM.

 -Alex-


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## a1rocketpilot

Yeah, ok, now that I look at the schematic, 2 2200uf and 2 3300uf Black Gates are going to be mighty expensive, that and I don't even know where to find Black Gates of that size! Though, I suppose you could use some other electrolytics and bypass them with a more reasonable Black Gate if you really wanted.


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## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *a1rocketpilot* 
_Yeah, ok, now that I look at the schematic, 2 2200uf and 2 3300uf Black Gates are going to be mighty expensive, that and I don't even know where to find Black Gates of that size! Though, I suppose you could use some other electrolytics and bypass them with a more reasonable Black Gate if you really wanted._

 

EDIT: Removed


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## Teerawit

Dang, this is very generous and sweet.


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## a1rocketpilot

Hah, I misread the schematic. Yeah, I thought the filter caps were spanning 30V, not 15V, so I suppose the 16V caps will just barely suffice.


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## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Panasonic FM for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Black Gates not my cup of tea (too bloody expensive!) anyways, let's wait till the boards arrive before we start ordering up parts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Nichicon for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Muse KZ costs almost as much as the HE/PW series.


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## dhp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_Nichicon for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Muse KZ costs almost as much as the HE/PW series._

 

same for me


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## [AK]Zip

Teerawit: Where did you find Nichicon that will work?


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## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Teerawit: Where did you find Nichicon that will work?_

 

Since the electrolytics are in the PSU section as far as I can tell, I would use just Nichicon PW. Oh that and Muse KZ values do not go above 1000 uF 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So Mouser.


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## The Monkey

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Do you have any idea what the parts would cost for populate that board?

 -Alex-_

 

Anyone have a ballpark figure?


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## [AK]Zip

Also the above 16v blackgates I showed won't work. You are probably going to need atleast 25v-30v I think you are right.


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## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *The Monkey* 
_Anyone have a ballpark figure?_

 

Probably around $50 for the PSU section, $40 for audio channel sections, $16 Alps Blue

 plus: miscellanous hardware, switches, I/O connectivity, etc. will be variable

 Maybe $125-150? Any thoughts ericj?


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## a1rocketpilot

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Also the above 16v blackgates I showed won't work. You are probably going to need atleast 25v-30v I think you are right._

 

Why shouldn't this work? The caps are between the voltage rails and ground so the potential difference is only going to be 15V, right?


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## PinkFloyd

If anyone wants to cap this on a budget (free) I've got loads of Jamicon 35V 2200uF "pulls" from brand new X-CAN V3 amps.... not the best quality caps but they're free. I'll probably cap mine with Panasonic FC / FM and RIFA polyprops.

 Does anyone have a good high res photo of the HA1 ? It'll be easy enough to find the values of the resistors etc. if we can see a completed article.

 Mike.


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## PinkFloyd

*Notes*


http://www.casemp.com/Dave/headampmod.gif

 "What sort of power bypassing is recommended with the LM6171?

 I suggest to use metal film capacitors instead of ceramics. Exact value is not very important. 100..220nF is what I use myself.

 "2) Could I expect any significant sonic degredation if I encorporated the "bass boost" circuitry"

 Not really, provided you use high quality capacitors (polypropylene)

 "I'm a bit worried about the amplification level for driving my HD600's - am I just being paranoid?"

 Don't worry, if you use a stationary CD-player as a source (2V output) then you will reach ear-damaging levels. Gain is really high enough. Only if used in combination with a portable player may higher gain levels be adviced.

 "I really believe that external output stage bias is always the right thing"
 "I would remove the 3K3 R on the output LM6171s"

 DON'T remove these resistors! They are essential for sound quality. Trust me, I did many listening tests. You may try different values though. 4k7 makes the amp sound a little bit more sharp. 2k2 makes it a little bit more dull. It's just a matter of taste. 3k3 was my personal choice.


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## royhubbs

I got the last circuit board for the HA-1 and Id definatley like to see a parts list as Ive never built any amp on my own before, But I have done soldering on small circuit boards. And Im sure I can do it, Ill just need some good instructions....


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## PinkFloyd

Anybody got a high resolution under the bonnet pic of the Ha-1 MKll ?


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## 69CamaroSS396

Thanks for the tip, PinkFloyd. I fired an email to Jan when I saw your post last night about 7:30PM EST and just received an email from him requesting payment. How cool!! Thanks again. Can't wait to follow a construction thread for this project.


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## a1rocketpilot

I've started to compile a parts list based on the schematics, when I get the boards and confirm everything, I will post it up here.


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## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *a1rocketpilot* 
_I've started to compile a parts list based on the schematics, when I get the boards and confirm everything, I will post it up here._

 


 Cool. We can compare notes


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## Teerawit

ooo, there will only be 17 of us... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Any ideas on an enclosure shell for the CROSS-1 that will accomodate the included side panels?


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## rickcr42

I am actually in for a couple of the Corda Cross boards.

 Not much of a pcb type of person but this could actually turn out to be fun and maybe even the "ultimate/el cheapo" version of when all the smoke clears.

 Jan is and always has been a real asset to the headphone community.class act there guys


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## a1rocketpilot

The cases look sort of like a Hammond case, just with the CROSS endplates. But I haven't seen a Hammond case where the screw taps are in the middle of the case instead of the corners.

 On another note, what is the point of having the combo XLR / 1/4" jack?


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## n_maher

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_I am actually in for a couple of the Corda Cross boards._

 

Damn! Rick building something off of a PCB, I must be dreaming (slaps self in face a couple times) - nope, it's true 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . I guess this means I've really got to get going on a PTP project.

  Quote:


 Jan is and always has been a real asset to the headphone community.class act there guys 
 

His generosity is amazing and pure class, no argument there.


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## rickcr42

Quote:


 I guess this means I've really got to get going on a PTP project. 
 

pretty much man.Kinda like two nations meeting at the border with a jug of wine instead of bullets 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  Quote:


 His generosity is amazing and pure class, no argument there 
 

More than you know man.Way back when I was just getting back into audio again after a long absence (pre-dating headfi by a couple of years) I had some questions on his crossfeed designs published in the Headwize library.
 Looking back the questions were kinda lame because due to my self imposed "layouff" I was really a blank on audio electronics again but no matter what the question he took the time to respond in emails in a timely way and that is something you don't forget.

 Class act now,pure cool and a class act even before he was "Meier Audio" and I have total respect.One of the good guys who gives as much if not more than he gets.

 Because of that I hope he makes a bazillion dollars on his amps and retires in comfort to a tropical island surrounded by nekked dancing girls to live out the rest of his days in peace


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## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *a1rocketpilot* 
_
 On another note, what is the point of having the combo XLR / 1/4" jack?_

 

It just looks cool if that's your thing.


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## dhp

I think I may try my hand at the Cross-1 first.


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## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Class act now,pure cool and a class act even before he was "Meier Audio" and I have total respect.One of the good guys who gives as much if not more than he gets.
_

 

Yep, got to agree there, he took my (out of order) insults on the chin and acted like a true gent.... a fine example of a _man_ indeed.

 I'll join you building the crossfeed Rick, a nice little project to be getting on with.

 Mike.


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## a1rocketpilot

Well, just sent my money out. Now the waiting begins...


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## rickcr42

Quote:


 I'll join you building the crossfeed Rick, a nice little project to be getting on with. 
 


 have two reserved so I can do the A/B comparing of passive parts signature but me being pay pal illiterate (even though I have had an account for some time ,only used it only once 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) I bounced and email to Jan asking what is the best move for me to make the actual payment.

 I know,I know,get a grip and get with the frikkin program but jeez ! I Can't Know EVERY Damn Thing


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## [AK]Zip

Payment sent.


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## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *a1rocketpilot* 
_Why shouldn't this work? The caps are between the voltage rails and ground so the potential difference is only going to be 15V, right?_

 

Because of possible voltage spikes. It the rating there is 15v thats absolute min. You want more then 1v of headroom.

 -Alex-


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## a1rocketpilot

200th post! (in only a month after my 100th post)

 Ah good point. So I guess Black Gates are pretty much out of the question


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## Blooze

I hope he still has some Cross boards left. Sent an email and eagerly awaiting. I built an air-wired Cross for my Millett (it's in the build pics), but to be honest I'm not sure it works correctly so to be able to populate a board were everything has its place would be great. The little Lite version off of PinkFloyd's that I put in my SOHA you can definitely tell is working-very obvious.


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## palchiu

Ha~ how luck are you, I miss HA-1...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Now I order Cross board, but question is where can I find these rotary switch same as Dr. Meier used?


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## PinkFloyd

I'm quite sorry I started this thread as I really didn't realise there were only "17" boards available. I thought Jan may have had quite a few of them. oh well, 17 lucky people is better than zero lucky people and maybe this thread will help those without a board construct one on veroboard once we get the ball rolling and get some parts lists and pictures up.


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## Blooze

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_I'm quite sorry I started this thread as I really didn't realise there were only "17" boards available. I thought Jan may have had quite a few of them. oh well, 17 lucky people is better than zero lucky people and maybe this thread will help those without a board construct one on veroboard once we get the ball rolling and get some parts lists and pictures up._

 


 That'd be great! I'd love to build one of the Cross Xfeeds then mate it to a HA-1 even if it is on a protoboard. Looking forward to seeing your progess.


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## Dave_M

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_maybe this thread will help those without a board construct one on veroboard once we get the ball rolling and get some parts lists and pictures up._

 

Maybe it will be possible to get our own PCBs made?


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## cetoole

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *palchiu* 
_Now I order Cross board, but question is where can I find these rotary switch same as Dr. Meier used?_

 

Mouser. They look just like Lorlin rotary switches, which are pretty inexpensive there, and I believe Dr. Meier even mentioned that they were lorlin switches.


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## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Dave_M* 
_Maybe it will be possible to get our own PCBs made?_

 

You should be able to.

 I will be putting my parts list together for the HA-1 and Cross-1 at the same time. I will post it up here once I get it all down and decide where I order from.

 -Alex-


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## Blooze

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *cetoole* 
_Mouser. They look just like Lorlin rotary switches, which are pretty inexpensive there, and I believe Dr. Meier even mentioned that they were lorlin switches._

 

They are Lorlin switches. I used them when I made a veroboard version of the the Cross. And I happened to get some Cross boards from Jan! YEAH!!!

 They are pretty simple as far as parts go. Metal film resistors, Lorlin switches, severel caps, and a toggle switch. But they sure bite to air-wire. Lots and lots of wires!


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## klemchang

Anyone figured out which Hammond enclosure to be a good match for the front and rear plates? Also any specific grade for those resistors or caps? Are 1/4W and 63V enough for the cross-1?


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## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *klemchang* 
_Anyone figured out which Hammond enclosure to be a good match for the front and rear plates? Also any specific grade for those resistors or caps? Are 1/4W and 63V enough for the cross-1? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I haven't looked at the caps, but the 1/4w resistors should be fine. As far as the case goes it going to be hard to know until the board comes in.

 -Alex-


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## rickcr42

Quote:


 But they sure bite to air-wire. Lots and lots of wires! 
 

Not if you do it the "old" way which is to use the lugs of the rotary switches to actually mount the parts then terminal strips for the overflow/mid-point to the next section.Think circuit groups instead of total circuit and it is not only doable but not as difficult as it seems.

 We actually did make circuits before the widespread use of the pc board and they not only worked but in many respects were easier to service and modify later


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## tess

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *klemchang* 
_Anyone figured out which Hammond enclosure to be a good match for the front and rear plates?_

 

I dont think they are Hammond cases, look more like these.

http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/setpage....?prev=4355.htm


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## rickcr42

Quote:


 Are 1/4W and 63V enough for the cross-1? 
 

the Cross-1 is an entirely passive device so the power ratings of the caps are not based on what voltage they will be passing but more on sonic impact.

 My opinion and one shared by some others,not at all by another group is low voltage film caps are inferior to high voltage film caps (various reasons not worth getting into) and even a 600V polypropylene will sound better than a 400V polypropylene cap with the main limitations on what to use availlable size (will it fit) combined with overall cost.

 that is why you see small caps such as the WIMA MKP (the LEAST I would use).Small foorprint and low cost.Moving up the ladder to the next in line would be the Solen Fast Cap sized poly film caps.Not a whole lot more in loot but the size factor alone precludes the use in any compact or semi compact audio gear.Taking this to an extreme would be the best sounding caps available which are oil filled but just a single capacitor would be bigger than this entire project ! 
 Using these monsters for every film cap position would mean using a rack mount chassis taking up four rack spaces and it would still be tight 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Better sonics ? Yes.Usable in this project ? No.

 Size/cost/performance/sonics all interelated and why all products are a comprimise at one point or another


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## Blooze

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Not if you do it the "old" way which is to use the lugs of the rotary switches to actually mount the parts then terminal strips for the overflow/mid-point to the next section.Think circuit groups instead of total circuit and it is not only doable but not as difficult as it seems._

 

I was actually gonna do it that way, but used the stuff I had on hand at the moment instead of ordering what I should have used. So a few of the resistors I had to double up on to get the right value and what-not. I'll have to check my old messages, but I believe Jan told me that he used 1/8W metal films in his. I used a bunch of Stackpole carbons I had and some little Wima caps on mine.


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## klemchang

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_My opinion and one shared by some others,not at all by another group is low voltage film caps are inferior to high voltage film caps (various reasons not worth getting into) and even a 600V polypropylene will sound better than a 400V polypropylene cap with the main limitations on what to use availlable size (will it fit) combined with overall cost._

 

Thanks dude! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 IMHO another issue for choosing the grade of the parts is system synergy. I made a clone cross-1 for my small DIY LC-icute amp. Most parts are from Radioshack or what I have for now, and it works okay with the amp; at least I think it's a good match. However with the authentic PCB from Jan I plan to have this one dedicated to my STAX SRM-313. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So to what grade of parts do you suggest me to go with?


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## palchiu

600V caps will better 400V caps.. 
 wow~ I need a big case for cross-1, I want put some big boy inside.


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## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *klemchang* 
_So to what grade of parts do you suggest me to go with?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Parts Connexion has a nice selection of film caps...and you get to help out a sponsor too! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I would pay the most attention to C1 and C2 though. I'm drawing the line at $10 per film cap


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## rickcr42

Quote:


 Most parts are from Radioshack or what I have for now, and it works okay with the amp; at least I think it's a good match. 
 

those "big blue" rat shack polyesters are actually not too shabby in a pinch.Easily the equal of the orange drop 715 series but NOT the orange drop 716 series which is a true metalised polypropylene cap.They look kinda cool too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (my addition to the "looks good must sound good craze 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).
 Combined with the rat shack metal film bulk pack and I can honestly say I have made literlly tens of single position crossfeeed networks totally radio shack sourced.Maybe not the last word in resolution but still better than most consumer grade audio goods. 

  Quote:


 600V caps will better 400V caps.. 
 wow~ I need a big case for cross-1, I want put some big boy inside. 
 

this is one of those areas where my first instinct when I came across this was "uh huh.and pigs can fly" until i did a test using two identical 10uf Solen fast caps but with the difference that one was the 250V version and the other 400V and the higher voltage/larger sized cap won the day and it was a clear winner with music playing as the test.After that I always look to available space and if i can use 50 instead of 35 or 100 instead of 50 or 400 instead of........

 Always as high in voltage as will fit/is affordable/is an actual GAIN in the circuit itself.

 that last is the tricky one.When to stop the instinct to upgrade parts because that particular device has finite possibilities that once reached no amount of fancy parts will make better.Will make you broke and look good but in sound nothing.

 the old law of diminishing returns audio style


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## PinkFloyd

My boards arrived earlier on, cheers Jan that was "superfast" shipping indeed!

 Decided to populate my Corda with components I have kicking around and not spend crazy money on uber expensive components. So, went to work about an hour ago and soldered in everything I had available "off the shelf" and am now off to order the transformer, some resistors, buf634 and a few other odds and ends....

 Didn't have any LM6171 so have fitted OPA227 instead (omitted the 15ohm resistors) Didn't have an ALPS RK27 so fitted an OMEG 50K log pot (hand selected for tracking accuracy) All looks pretty straightforward and is just a case of sourcing the components and soldering them into position. Most of the values are printed on the board which is handy..... will come back to this thread as soon as I manage to source all of the required components.

 Mike.


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## [AK]Zip

Thank you for the pictures. Once my boards come in I will scan them and post them up here.

 -Alex-


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## PinkFloyd

I've managed to find every single part for the amp except for that weird looking headphone socket, does anyone know where to get hold of one?

 I believe the transformer to use is this one http://www.rswww.com part: 223-9086 and I am hoping the correct switch is no: 448-0949 (1P 'on'-off-'on' right angle toggle switch,0.4VA)

 Now, just a case of finding that strange looking head socket


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## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Now, just a case of finding that strange looking head socket 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

If you are talking about the out socket thats no problem. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://www.neutrik.com/content/produ...elid=204_57051

 or

http://www.neutrik.com/content/produ...elid=204_57051

 -Alex-


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## PinkFloyd

Looks like one of these? http://www.rswww.com PT: 466-4872


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## [AK]Zip

It's the NCJ9FIH on that page. RS Stock no: 466-4872

 Thats what it seems to be.

 -Alex-


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## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_It's the NCJ9FIH on that page. RS Stock no: 466-4872

 Thats what it seems to be.

 -Alex-_

 

Yes, I thought it seemed the right one.. proof of the pudding will be in the eating!

 God knows what I was thinking when I soldered in the OPA227's something at the back of my mind told me these are FET opamps but they are not.... low DC though so they should be fine, if not I'll whack in some LM6171 with 15M resistors or some plain old OPA627. Typical of me, fit first ask questions later, too bloody impatient to wait for my dip8 sockets to arrive. oh well, I'm sure the OPA227 will sound fine 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Am trying to keep this build cost as close to zero as possible and that means using what I have and not what I'd like to use...... way too many parts sitting idle, may as well incorporate them into this amp otherwise they'll never get used.

 Decided to use this lincolnbinns enclosure for the amp quite simply because the PCB fits and the case was sitting about doing nothing. Once I've drilled the panels and done the initial fit I'll spray the end panels satin black so it should look pretty good.

 The completed amp will go back into the Head-Fi system in that it will be auctioned with the proceeds going toward the upkeep of Head-Fi.


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## rickcr42

Cross-1 :


 just checked the Meier audio site and realised there is no actual BOM even though all the details are there so it is up to the "group" of builder s to come with one unless I missed something obvious (possible at my age 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).

 The 4PDT C&K switch is a nice touch and what I use for every FX device I build.The only true way to take something out of the signal path is a total input jack to output jack "wire" which this type and _only_ this type of switch provides (unless you go the expensive 4-pole rotary route,overkill).

 RCA jacks are "off board" and also an excellant choice for anyone that either is building this from the bare boards,is purchasing a kit or even has purchased a finished device from Jan.Because they are not on the actual board we have a lot of slack on what we choose to use here instead of being locked in to a single part that will fit.I like this especially and have my favorite price/performance jacks targeted here ($4 per RCA) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Casing :Since Jan is located in the Erope the assumption can probably be made this is a standard off the shelf Euro part that will bolt right up to the panels.One of you "off shore" Headfiers can find the dirty details on that one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Optionally you can go to a larger or U.S. standard case (I.E. Hammond Extruded Chassis) and bolt the Meier audio panel on as kinda a "sub plate" type of thing where the real panel is aluminum and the "dress panel" the basic black.Could be a nice effect and would not be ugly with other gear no matter what color it was.
 Even better : Silver panel,black sub-panel-silver knobs,textured black casting

 Caps.Pretty much have to go with the WIMA MKPs for all filter elements I think (not postive but seems so) with maybe some slack room for larger caps if they are placed on end.Not the best way but _A _way to use bigger caps.

 Resistors : Most likely the standard Vishays but maybe carbon films or tantalums.The values ARE low and at any given time no more than three actual resistors inline with the audio signal.the rest are all parallel or shunts.


 finally a potential "mod" would be JFET follower as input,Meier Cross-1,Compound amp output (JFET/Bipolar transistor pair) which would take ALL considerations of input driving or output driven impedances out of the equation allowing use as a +/-3dB Tone control & Crossfeed platform !

 Just tossing things out there to get the creative juices flowing


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## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Cross-1 :_

 

This is going to get confusing with both an amp and a crossfeed being built in the _same_ thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_just checked the Meier audio site and realised there is no actual BOM even though all the details are there so it is up to the "group" of builder s to come with one unless I missed something obvious (possible at my age 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )._

 

Same with the amp it's pretty much a case of "guess it" with a few of the components. Most of the components are just resistors and caps etc. and are pretty much generic but getting the "exact" switch to fit on the board etc. may take a bit of research. I've taken a big guess and have ordered all the bits and bobs so if they all fit I'll upload a parts list here. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_The 4PDT C&K switch is a nice touch and what I use for every FX device I build.The only true way to take something out of the signal path is a total input jack to output jack "wire" which this type and only this type of switch provides (unless you go the expensive 4-pole rotary route,overkill)._

 

Going "expensive" on a crossfeed is a total waste of money IMO Rick.... it's a fun gadget that sits bang in the middle of the signal path, as long as it's sonically "invisible" when it's _bypassed_ then that's good enough. Actually spending megabucks on the _in circuit _ crossfeed components is overkill (IMO), they won't alter the level of the crossfeed or improve the sound quality "that" dramatically over standard polyprops or polyesters IMO. I actually "preferred" the sound of metallised polyester over the more expensive polyprops when I was into crossfeed, the polyprops imparted a distinct rubbery quackiness to my ears...... of course, capacitor choice is a matter of personal taste and your own ears are the best judge of what's right for you.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Casing :Since Jan is located in the Erope the assumption can probably be made this is a standard off the shelf Euro part that will bolt right up to the panels.One of you "off shore" Headfiers can find the dirty details on that one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Likeliehood is the enclosure is "Made in Germany" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Optionally you can go to a larger or U.S. standard case (I.E. Hammond Extruded Chassis) and bolt the Meier audio panel on as kinda a "sub plate" type of thing where the real panel is aluminum and the "dress panel" the basic black.Could be a nice effect and would not be ugly with other gear no matter what color it was.
 Even better : Silver panel,black sub-panel-silver knobs,textured black casting_

 

Good idea.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Caps.Pretty much have to go with the WIMA MKPs for all filter elements I think (not postive but seems so) with maybe some slack room for larger caps if they are placed on end.Not the best way but A way to use bigger caps._

 

Not so much the type of cap but the voltage of the cap I believe? Bigger voltage = better yes?

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Resistors : Most likely the standard Vishays but maybe carbon films or tantalums.The values ARE low and at any given time no more than three actual resistors inline with the audio signal.the rest are all parallel or shunts._

 

No temperature in the crossfeed being it's a passive device so 0.1% low temp coefficient resistors (15ppm) are a waste of money. Good quality hand matched 1% metal films will do the job nicely.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_finally a potential "mod" would be JFET follower as input,Meier Cross-1,Compound amp output (JFET/Bipolar transistor pair) which would take ALL considerations of input driving or output driven impedances out of the equation allowing use as a +/-3dB Tone control & Crossfeed platform !_

 

Radical! I bow down to your expertise on this one, sounds a great idea Rick 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Just tossing things out there to get the creative juices flowing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

It'll take a lot of tossing to get my creative juices flowing on the crossfeed, I've got the Corda to build and then a WNA MKlll and then an XXXXX (not yet announced) to build and then a.......... _long_ time before I'll get down and dirty with the Crossfeed


----------



## steinchen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Cross-1 :
 Casing :Since Jan is located in the Erope the assumption can probably be made this is a standard off the shelf Euro part that will bolt right up to the panels.One of you "off shore" Headfiers can find the dirty details on that one 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

the mating case for the panels is the 1000-200 from ALUBOS, available from reichelt.de (part number "ABPH 1000-200") for 24 EUR (~ $30). Reichelt has a minimum order volume of about 100 or 200 EUR for international orders.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Caps.Pretty much have to go with the WIMA MKPs for all filter elements I think (not postive but seems so) with maybe some slack room for larger caps if they are placed on end._

 

MKP would be too large I'm afraid. Wima FKP-2 and FKP-3 fit the PCB nicely.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_finally a potential "mod" would be JFET follower as input,Meier Cross-1,Compound amp output (JFET/Bipolar transistor pair) which would take ALL considerations of input driving or output driven impedances out of the equation allowing use as a +/-3dB Tone control & Crossfeed platform !_

 

may I add discrete cascoded JFET CCSs to replace the classA bias resistors


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *steinchen* 
_the mating case for the panels is the 1000-200 from ALUBOS, available from reichelt.de (part number "ABPH 1000-200") for 24 EUR (~ $30). Reichelt has a minimum order volume of about 100 or 200 EUR for international orders.
_

 

Told you Rick! Strong possibility the enclosure is from Germany


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 This is going to get confusing with both an amp and a crossfeed being built in the same thread 
 

Maybe you could request a mod split the thread to Amp/crossfeed.i realise they already have a lot to do but this COULD get a bit confusing and especially since i think i may have mucked up the other thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


 they won't alter the level of the crossfeed or improve the sound quality "that" dramatically over standard polyprops or polyesters IMO. I actually "preferred" the sound of metallised polyester over the more expensive polyprops when I was into crossfeed, the polyprops imparted a distinct rubbery quackiness to my ears...... of course, capacitor choice is a matter of personal taste and your own ears are the best judge of what's right for you. 
 

I can see a use for the Cross-1 in a "crossfeed off/bass & treble trim" mode and that means actual duty in system to voice bad recording or adjust for hearing differences which again means best you can make it sound without going nut boy on designer parts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Same with the amp it's pretty much a case of "guess it" with a few of the components. Most of the components are just resistors and caps etc. and are pretty much generic but getting the "exact" switch to fit on the board etc. may take a bit of research. I've taken a big guess and have ordered all the bits and bobs so if they all fit I'll upload a parts list here. 
 

the actual parts list can be mated up easily to the parts number deignators in the schematic,I am just too lazy to do that myself then post it so am pretty much waiting for a "sucker" to come by and do it for me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Going "expensive" on a crossfeed is a total waste of money IMO Rick 
 

four poles of switching is the only way to totally eliminate the circuit and retain a pure signal path by putting the input jack signal directly to the output jack signal with ZERO other parts touching any section of the audio signal path.Simple,elegant and cheap at any price (C&K 4PDT about $10)

  Quote:


 they won't alter the level of the crossfeed or improve the sound quality "that" dramatically over standard polyprops or polyesters IMO. I actually "preferred" the sound of metallised polyester over the more expensive polyprops when I was into crossfeed, the polyprops imparted a distinct rubbery quackiness to my ears 
 

That can be a signature of polypro caps that are microphonic.
 Mylars smear low level signals and produce what many think is a smooooth sound but is in reality glossing over details.
 Polypropylene digs out more of the low level detail generally but can also put a "tone" stamp on everything and why I have preached before mixing up capacitors for balance.I am leaning to a mix of solens and orange drops presently

  Quote:


 of course, capacitor choice is a matter of personal taste and your own ears are the best judge of what's right for you. 
 

Oil caps but that would mean a $600 crossfeed the size of a chicken coop 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Likeliehood is the enclosure is "Made in Germany" 
 

you think ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Good idea. 
 

*Of course man ! I AM the rickmonster am I not ?*

  Quote:


 Not so much the type of cap but the voltage of the cap I believe? Bigger voltage = better yes? 
 

Yes but with higher voltage comes bigger size and there are limits to what will fit on such a small board.the option of course is to use strip boards to mount all the R/C then wire these "RC Modules" to the actual switches but then there would be no need for the pcb at all and that defeats the purpose of a custom Meier Cross-1 that can be used as a mod guide for others having one if they choose that path

  Quote:


 No temperature in the crossfeed being it's a passive device so 0.1% low temp coefficient resistors (15ppm) are a waste of money. Good quality hand matched 1% metal films will do the job nicely. 
 

I am thinking more about resistor "tone" than any tolerance which to me is a waste of time mostly anyway since i hand match all resistors in left/right channel pairs.even a lowly 20 % carbon can be nmatched and as for "tone" is hard to beat if not overdone.
 Metal film ? I pretty much despise the sound of most metal film resistors and find them to have a "brittle" sound that tends to lightweight with an upper octave emphasis.
 I live in the midrange where most music lives and try to get that right first and hope the top and bottom fall into place.If not then plan-B 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Radical! I bow down to your expertise on this one, sounds a great idea Rick 
 

see above "I am the .............." comment 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 It'll take a lot of tossing to get my creative juices flowing on the crossfeed, 
 

well lucky for you I am not a normal person and rather than look at the scale of what a thing does instead look at how to make that "thing" bend to _MY_ will and that usually means thinking with my left brain,the female side 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 long time before I'll get down and dirty with the Crossfeed 
 

Right up my alley actually.My experiments that hold my intereest these last few years have all been on the time/phase manipulation front and you would be surpised how a little "tweak" here and there can make a signal come from directly to front,front but raised up ten feet,to the sides or even behind you and they all start with the same all-pass filter with some tonal manipulation.

 We pretty much have no where to go with amps or headphones other than small changes in what has gone before but the "positional" FX is just a puppy and barely even touched as a field for DIY experimenting.The Cross-1 is a good starting place for most and if done right can be a test bed for image shifting that may turn on that lighbulb over someones head that will allow that person to come up with the "next thing" a lot of us mostly bored DIYers are waiting for 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 the mating case for the panels is the 1000-200 from ALUBOS, available from reichelt.de (part number "ABPH 1000-200") for 24 EUR (~ $30). Reichelt has a minimum order volume of about 100 or 200 EUR for international orders. 
 

Pass.I think I am going open frame/woody 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 may I add discrete cascoded JFET CCSs to replace the classA bias resisto 
 

Pretty much on the same page as me but not nailed down in my brain yet where I personally want to go with it.Another "thought" is to use the front end to make up the -2.5dB loss of the network and also have an SE transistor "driver" to push the caps in the tone control network.

 Thinking 50K in Z/+6dB gain at the front/-3dB,0dB,+3db switch/ JFET-Darlington Transistor current pump output but again not locked in until I actually begin building so I have the basic passive device before I lock down the active parts that isolate the networks from external influence.
 One thing I DO know is ZERO Op-Amps will be involved and SE Class-A or nothing


  Quote:


 Told you Rick! Strong possibility the enclosure is from Germany 
 

Whoob [size=x-small]whoob[/size] [size=small]whooboo[/size]boobooboob...nyuk....nyuk...nyuk......


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_even a lowly 20 % carbon can be matched and as for "tone" is hard to beat if not overdone._

 

Blimey! I was reluctant to mention carbon here in case I was called the antichrist and / or tarred and feathered. I totally agree here Rick, your good old carbon film is hard to beat tonally, unfortunately the masses will turn their noses up at an amp unless it's populated with resistors that cost £1 a pop. I've never paid more than 70p for a strip of _100_ resistors.... a quid each for 0.1% 15ppm? you gotta be having a laugh..... licence to print money IMO and "yes" they sound very brittle and shrill at certain frequencies the good old carbons are a lot more rounded sounding overall thing is, they're only a penny each so they can't be good for audio... can they? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Whoob [size=x-small]whoob[/size] [size=small]whooboo[/size]boobooboob...nyuk....nyuk...nyuk......
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 






 Quick! somebody call 911 I think the Rickmeister is choking on a fish bone!


----------



## tess

Haven’t received my board yet, so don’t know exact size but could this be the case from RS in the UK.
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/home.do?cacheID=ukie

 Part No: 298-1579


----------



## PinkFloyd

This will be very limited interest (limited to the 17 people who have ordered boards) but I hope the following pictures assist you in your build.

 Just waiting for the buf634's to arrive and that will be the amp ready to power up. I've decided not to go with the combined XLR/Jack as I don't really see _any_ advantage to it over a standard 1/4" socket. I'm also omitting the PCB mounted phono sockets and going for good quality chassis mount types instead.

 Most of the parts are bog standard and screen printed on the boards the only parts which you may find a bit awkward I am listing here:

 All available from http://www.rswww.com

 1 x Toroidal transformer, 3.2VA 2x 15V part no: 223-9086
 1 x 1P on-off-on right angle toggle switch part no: 448-0911
 1 x 6 way XLR/jack combined solder skt,7.5A part no: 448-7237


 The rest is pretty easy to source being resistors, capacitors and:

 1 x L7915CV -15V 1A Voltage regulator
 1 x L7815CV +15V 1A Voltage regulator
 1 x B8OD 160V 1A DIL Bridge rectifier
 2 x 20mm PCB fuseholders

 etc. etc. I'll put together a full list should anyone need one.


----------



## rickcr42

Looking good there pinkmeister 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 you don't waste any time fkng around when there is STUFF to be built 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 gotta tell you man.The boards just arrived and to be honest looks like I am screwed bud ! Have one of each so now I have to build and amp as well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 "Ooooohhhhhh noooooooooo ! rick is doing a pcb build ! Can he ? Is he capable ? will it let out the magic smoke in the end ?"


----------



## royhubbs

I just got my boards in the mail today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. 

 And If its possible Pink Could I get a Complete parts list? and approximatley how much does it cost for the parts? Ive never built an amp or anything But I do have decent enough soldering skills. So the easier this can be made for me the beter. Thanks


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Looking good there pinkmeister 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Cheers Rick. It's a lovely little board to work on, just be sure to fit and forget as those pads don't look like they would take a lot of component rolling. 

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_you don't waste any time fkng around when there is STUFF to be built 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Hell no! If I had the parts to hand I would have had her populated in 30 minutes or so. The real bummer is that I have to wait until "May" for the Buf 634 to arrive otherwise that would have been the build complete. I never fk around when it comes to building amps, in and out like a stealth bomber 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_gotta tell you man.The boards just arrived and to be honest looks like I am screwed bud ! Have one of each so now I have to build and amp as well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ah good, they arrived then 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 One thing about Jan.. supersonic fast shipping I will most _certainly_ buy from him in the future. Isn't it a nicely laid out little board? I love the integrated toroidal and fuse holders and that little switch is just soooooo cute! I really hope that it works fine with OPA227 instead of LM6171, I've omitted the 15M resistors and replaced with axial ferrite inductors so they should (the OPA227) be OK. If not I'll fit LM6171 later down the line. decided "not" to socket the chips for maximum SQ, this amp will be "fit and forget". Having said that, I've ordered up some decent low ESR Panasonic NHG series caps and will probably replace the ceramic plate caps with silvered mica _when_ I am happy that the amp is firing on all four cylinders.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_"Ooooohhhhhh noooooooooo ! rick is doing a pcb build ! Can he ? Is he capable ? will it let out the magic smoke in the end ?"_

 

Jesus, and they say Pigs can't fly, this will be something worth seeing! Go for it Rick


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *royhubbs* 
_I just got my boards in the mail today 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. 

 And If its possible Pink Could I get a Complete parts list? and approximatley how much does it cost for the parts? Ive never built an amp or anything But I do have decent enough soldering skills. So the easier this can be made for me the beter. Thanks_

 

Sure. Give me some time to compile it.

 Mike.

 Edit: As to parts cost I can't really say, it's cost me about £20 in total but I had quite a lot of parts kicking about. Expect it to be in the region of about £70 including the enclosure I'd say..... may be more may be less I'm not sure at all.


----------



## royhubbs

Ok, Thanks alot.


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 Ah good, they arrived then One thing about Jan.. supersonic fast shipping I will most certainly buy from him in the future. 
 

I think that would be the appropriate payback so it is only the "what and when" not "if" I will buy a Meier audio product if only to say "Thanks Jan"

  Quote:


 Isn't it a nicely laid out little board? I love the integrated toroidal and fuse holders and that little switch is just soooooo cute! 
 

Jan has always had skill in the pcb layout arena and that way before all the current latecomers to CAD software.i still remeber the original "Jan Meier Headphone Amp Project" in the Headwize Library way before he focused in the crossfeed area projects.Like with his current web page all there for a scratch build with the option to oder boards or kits.
 The "old style" was the forerunner and is about the same core amp but back then he used a more squat style casting for the chassis.Kinda like the Channel Audio or Creek amps in look.

  Quote:


 I really hope that it works fine with OPA227 instead of LM6171, I've omitted the 15M resistors and replaced with axial ferrite inductors so they should (the OPA227) be OK. If not I'll fit LM6171 later down the line. decided "not" to socket the chips for maximum SQ, this amp will be "fit and forget". Having said that, I've ordered up some decent low ESR Panasonic NHG series caps and will probably replace the ceramic plate caps with silvered mica when I am happy that the amp is firing on all four cylinders. 
 

I don't have the schemo right here in front of me but from memory the compensation caps/scheme is for the chosen opamp so maybe you want to look at optimising to the chosen part.not as simple as "just toss a couple of 0.1 uf caps on the V+ and V- and go".
 Look at the data sheet for the chip and especially the bandwidth/phase angle parts and decide where you want to loop to cut off and if you need a single cap from V+ to V- or individual caps at both terminals,a combo or even another way.
 Data sheets are your freind so do a google search for everything you can findd on that chip to maybe find some obscure "EE to EE" comments for download.Opamps are not as "plug-and-play" as most think and even a good one with bad implementing can sound like crap.

 One thing about Jan is he fully engineers an amp.He looks to all the little details often overlooked such as thise fuses you mention,such as total opamp compensation,such as a ground breaker.

 An AMP ready to be sold as a ready to use product instead of a circuit in a box as most DIY efforts are.try to sell some of those amps in some quarters and most likely you would be arrested as a public nuisence 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


 Jesus, and they say Pigs can't fly, 
 

_birdy birdy in the sky
 Why'd you do that in my eye ?
 I'm not sad
 I'll not cry
 I'm just glad that pigs don't fly_


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 The real bummer is that I have to wait until "May" for the Buf 634 to arrive 
 


 hopefully I can maybe help you on that one.If I can figure out where i am pretty sure I have a few kicking around the house.

 To be honest I don't like the BUF634 much so not liking them do not use them unless i must (this project 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) hence have not been exactly on point keeping them safe and in reach


----------



## Teerawit

So the Talema toroids and Amveco toroids are basically the same thing? The Amveco (ie. from Digikey) should fit on the PCB, right?


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_So the Talema toroids and Amveco toroids are basically the same thing? The Amveco (ie. from Digikey) should fit on the PCB, right?_

 

Don't know Teerawit. Jan uses the Talema one, have you got a link to the Amveco one?


----------



## blueworm

Talema and amveco are the same transformers just branded different.


----------



## duchamp

Allright everyone...so my PCB's are on the way. Although I am an almost total newb to amp building, I DO have something I may be able to contribute to this great thread thus far. I own one of the Meier Corda HAI MKII's and would be willing to post some photos or otherwise pass on any info others may need about what's in the original amp. I have looked at the Meier page under projects/ headamp and found a few of the parts brands listed (ie. the case is made by a company called Bopla.) I am interested in building a maxxed out version of this amp and am hoping others would be interested in this as well. I am not knowledgeable enough at this point to feel comfortable switching parts out, but I don't think I'll have a problem finding the answers with everyones help. As soon as I figure out how to post photos I will have some up!


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *duchamp* 
_Allright everyone...so my PCB's are on the way. Although I am an almost total newb to amp building, I DO have something I may be able to contribute to this great thread thus far. I own one of the Meier Corda HAI MKII's and would be willing to post some photos or otherwise pass on any info others may need about what's in the original amp. I have looked at the Meier page under projects/ headamp and found a few of the parts brands listed (ie. the case is made by a company called Bopla.) I am interested in building a maxxed out version of this amp and am hoping others would be interested in this as well. I am not knowledgeable enough at this point to feel comfortable switching parts out, but I don't think I'll have a problem finding the answers with everyones help. As soon as I figure out how to post photos I will have some up!_

 

Email them to me and I will host and post them.

 Email removed.

 -Alex-


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_
 Look at the data sheet for the chip and especially the bandwidth/phase angle parts and decide where you want to loop to cut off and if you need a single cap from V+ to V- or individual caps at both terminals,a combo or even another way._

 

Pretty much "headless chicken" style on this one Rick 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I fitted the OPA227 as they were the first thing that immediately came to hand.... Bollocks to reading up on the OPA227 I'm going to go with the program and fit the LM6171 and order up some 15M resistors (the main reason I didn't fit LM6171 was I didn't have 15M resistors, talk about "cheapskate"!!!)


----------



## duchamp

Thanks Alex.....will do so tonight.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Sorry guys, I *totally* lost the plot there for a moment.... my mind is busy on other things and the way I had the amp with OPA227 and ferrite inductors would have probably caused a small explosion 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Totally back on course now and have the LM6171 in dip8 sockets and now only need the 15M resistors and Buf634 and she'll be ready to fire up. I also made a big mistake with R33 & R34 and fitted 22ohm resistors instead of 0.22ohm resistors.... this will be rectified when the 0.22ohm resistors arrive. Also will be replacing all the pF caps with polyprop or polystyrene once I know the amp is working.

 Parts list to follow.


----------



## PinkFloyd

My thinking behind using ceramic caps to start with is to use them as a reference point. Once the amp has had a few days to bed in "then" I will start dabbling with more exotic caps and that way I will be able to determine whether or not there is a marked improvement in SQ. No point in populating the board with the most expensive components known to mankind before evaluating the "cheapest" components in the circuit, how will I know that the more expensive components sound better if I fit them from the word go? It's fiddly, it's a pain in the neck desoldering but I think it's worth evaluating the different flavours of capacitor starting with the cheapest and working up the price range gradually...... may seem a bit "pedantic" but I'm in no hurry.


----------



## PinkFloyd

My eyes are knackered looking at this bloody thing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 This is as far as I go folks, the majority of the components are as follows. please note the 0.5W resistors should read "0.4W" I'm too tired to go and correct the list.

 1 x ALPS RK27 10K log potentiometer
 4 x LM6171 op amps
 2 x 2200uF Capacitors
 2 x 3300uF Capacitors
 12 x 220nF Film capacitors
 1 x Toroidal transformer, 3.2VA 2x 15V RS part no: 223-9086
 1 x 1P on-off-on right angle toggle switch RS part no: 448-0911
 1 x headphone socket. (I haven't a clue what the Neutrik part number is!)
 1 x L7915CV -15V 1A Voltage regulator
 1 x L7815CV +15V 1A Voltage regulator
 1 x B8OD 160V 1A DIL Bridge rectifier
 2 x 20mm PCB fuseholders
 2 x 50mA 20mm T fuses
 7 x 0.5W 2k2 resistors
 1 x 4.7R *5W* resistor (*5* WATTS)
 1 x 12K 0.5W resistor
 2 x 0.5W 47K resistors
 2 x 0.22R 0.5W resistors
 4 x zero ohm resistors (or wire links)
 4 x 15M 0.5W resistors
 4 x 1K 0.5W resistors
 2 x 100R 0.5W resistors
 2 x 470R 0.5W resistors
 1 x 7K5 0.5W resistor
 2 x 4K7 0.5W resistors
 6 x 3K3 0.5W resistors
 2 x 220pF film capacitors
 2 x 150pF film capacitors
 4 x 47pF film capacitors
 2 x 10nF film capacitors
 2 x 100nF film capacitors
 2 x Gold plated phono sockets (chassis mount or PCB mount)
 1 x blue LED

* [size=large]Note:[/size] * Most of the component values are *PRINTED ON THE PCB *so double check by looking at your PCB before ordering any parts.


----------



## rickcr42

th Quote:


 e main reason I didn't fit LM6171 was I didn't have 15M resistors, talk about "cheapskate"!!! 
 

Gotta agree man.I thought I was cheap but that beats even my low ball standards.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW-reading a data sheet is free man so no excuse 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 M Quote:


 y thinking behind using ceramic caps to start with is to use them as a reference point 
 

Why ? these are bypasses right ? Shunt postion from power to ground ? 

 If yes then ceramics are about as good as you can do at the freequncies if the filter as long as they are good ones and not bottom feeder 10,000/$1 packs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If you want to try an "upgrade" from generic no name ceramics go for the AVX stacked film or the "black box" MIL-Spec monolithic ceramics.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_
 Gotta agree man.I thought I was cheap but that beats even my low ball standards.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			



_

 

I am well known for my resourcefulness Rick and regulars in the WNA thread will confirm that I once made a 1K resistor out of ten 100R resistors as they were all I had to hand. I'm impatient and would rather make my own value of resistor by using what I have than wait 24 hours for the correct value to arrive..... it's not so much "cheap" I just don't believe in being frivolous with components, having said that I just _totally_ destroyed 4 x OPA227 about two hours ago 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_BTW-reading a data sheet is free man so no excuse 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

They may be free but I can't be arsed trawling the net filling my head with even _more_ crap at the moment.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Why ? these are bypasses right ? Shunt postion from power to ground ?_

 

You tell me, you have the board in front of your face 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_If yes then ceramics are about as good as you can do at the frequencies if the filter as long as they are good ones and not bottom feeder 10,000/$1 packs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I agree but Jan prefers to use Polystyrene for the 47pF and 220pF caps. Proof of the pudding is in the eating and we can try all types of caps in these positions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_If you want to try an "upgrade" from generic no name ceramics go for the AVX stacked film or the "black box" MIL-Spec monolithic ceramics._

 

Will give them a whirl once the amp is bedded in


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 You tell me, you have the board in front of your face 
 

FIRST PRIZE !!!!!

 That is the *single best insult* hurled my way in more than a year and especially so because there is no comeback for it.It is dead on 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 I agree but Jan prefers to use Polystyrene for the 47pF and 220pF caps. Proof of the pudding is in the eating and we can try all types of caps in these positions 
 

Suprised you can even find polystyrene.What was once commonly used for networks (RIAA,EQ,Filters) has been mostly taken over by micas but that is the precision cap area where precsion values low leakage is paramount.For RF freqeuncies 20% tolerance is more than good enough but hey,different flavors is what this is about so all good man.

  Quote:


 Will give them a whirl once the amp is bedded in 
 

don't forget the cookies and milk


----------



## Ballooshi

Here is a link to the Bopla enclosures and engineering drawings:

http://www.rose-bopla.com/Prod_Pgs/B..._02_Alubos.htm

http://www.rose-bopla.com/PDF_Files/...osDrawings.pdf

 Looks like the one we would need is the 1000 series (for both the HA-1 and Cross-1). Or maybe the 1040 series? However, looks like they are sold as a 1 meter extrusion, which you would then have to hack off to the length needed? Maybe some folks would want to purchase a 1 meter length together. You could probably get 6 enclosures from it?

 And Jan, THANK YOU for your unbelievable kindness in offering these PCBs to us mere mortals.


----------



## PinkFloyd

If anyone can lend me a couple of Buf 634 (5 pin type TO-220) until May will be appreciated, I will send back two fresh ones as soon as they arrive.

 Mike.

 Edit: Sorted out, thanks


----------



## Nisbeth

YGPM! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 /U.


----------



## Jan Meier

> these are bypasses right ? Shunt postion from power to ground ? 
 > If yes then ceramics are about as good as you can do 

 No, they're part of the input RF-filter and of the feedback loop!!!!!


----------



## PinkFloyd

Whilst waiting for the Buf 634 to arrive I decided to get on with my least favourite job... the enclosure. What we have here is a "lincolnbinns" enclosure which cost only £10 a pop. Complete with the enclosure comes grey ABS end bezels and grey blanking off plugs. looks "extremely" effective in real life and I don't think I'll bother spraying the rear panel black, looks good just the way it is "raw" Once it has feet, a knob and an LED I think it will be one great looking little enclosure


----------



## PinkFloyd

Here are the connecting points, for 110V operation just jumper over the two 110V positions:


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 No, they're part of the input RF-filter and of the feedback loop!!!!! 
 

i guess looking at the actual schematic would have been smart huh ?

 thanks Jan


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jan Meier* 
_No, they're part of the input RF-filter and of the feedback loop!!!!!_

 

Oh well, polyprops or polystyrene then. Bugger, I've ordered silvered Mica


----------



## PinkFloyd

You know I'm getting a good buzz from this amp (hopefully not "literally"!) can't wait to listen to it and switch the crossfeed in and out. I really love that it's all in the one enclosure and you don't have to have an additional PSU enclosure kicking about. Jan, I think you should offer something like this in kit form I'm _positive_ they would sell like hotcakes.

 Mike.


----------



## [AK]Zip

I got my boards in and pictures of duchamp's HA-1 MKII amp. I will be posting pictures of his board in the morning and will post up a full parts list of what I will be using soon there after.

 Mike let me know when your amp is completely done. I am interested to know if everything worked out ok and how it sounds! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_I got my boards in and pictures of duchamp's HA-1 MKII amp. I will be posting pictures of his board in the morning and will post up a full parts list of what I will be using soon there after.

 -Alex-_

 


 Nice one, get them up, the more the merrier.


----------



## star1

Can anyone advise me of the voltage needed for the Radial Caps, also are 1/4 watt resistors OK or do they have to be 1/2 watt as PinkFloyd's list, and were do you find 0.22R ?

 Also I think R13 @ 12k missed of the list.

 Thanks.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *star1* 
_Can anyone advise me of the voltage needed for the Radial Caps, also are 1/4 watt resistors OK or do they have to be 1/2 watt as PinkFloyd's list, and were do you find 0.22R ?

 Also I think R13 @ 12k missed of the list.

 Thanks._

 

0.22R you will have to look under 4W (or so) wirewound resistors. EDIT: you will get smaller 0.5W types if you hunt around.

 I assume the amp is 15V per channel so 16V caps should be ok. I am using 25V types to be on the safe side. According to Jan's website the resistors are 1/4 watt except for the 0.22R (2.5W) and 4R7 (4 Watt) I think.

 EDIT: Jan says "16V will only be correct for those after the voltage
 regulators. The ones in front of the regulators should at
 least have 25V!!!!" so there we have it.


----------



## star1

My local supplier does 2.5watt 5% silicon 0.22r resistors, 12mm body will they be ok for that position if I tombstone them?


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *star1* 
_My local supplier does 2.5watt 5% silicon 0.22r resistors, 12mm body will they be ok for that position if I tombstone them?_

 

The ones I ordered were actually 2.5Watt Vishay wire wound types (18mm body) at an extortionate 51 pence each! http://www.rswww.com Pt. No: 485-1414

 I only need two of them (had to order a MOQ of 5) so am happy to send you two if you can't get hold of them your end. The ones you describe will be fine.


----------



## PinkFloyd

From Jan:

 16V will only be correct for those after the voltage
 regulators. The ones in front of the regulators should at
 least have 25V!!!!


----------



## [AK]Zip

Sorry for the delay, but here are the pictures of duchamp's HA-1 MKII amp.






















 -Alex-


----------



## PinkFloyd

Cheers for the pics [AK]Zip. Seems Jan is using polystyrene caps for all the pF values and metallised polyester for the 220nF values (the yellow ones) Bog standard 1% metal film resistors by the look of them, carbon film resistors for the 15M, electrolytics look like Panasonic FC (105c) for the 2200uF and Panasonic FA (105c) for the 3300uF (can't be sure as I can only see their tops) polypropylene for the 100nF positions.

 Nothing out of the ordinary component wise and it _may_ be beneficial to play about with different components which may have a positive effect on SQ. Those of you with a resistor fetish can fit 0.1% high precision types, those of you with a capacitor fetish may want to substitute the Panasonics with those extortionately priced Black Gate things though, personally, I think the Panasonics are a superb choice in this position as they have very low ESR and are 105C rated so will last ages.

 The polysyrene caps are a good choice, expensive but good, if you're on a tight budget then good ceramics "will" suffice or if you fancy splashing the cash then silvered mica would be a good choice for the pF values.

 The metallised polyesters (220nF) are my choice of cap and I actually prefer them over polypropylene but it's all down to personal taste. You may prefer fitting polyprops in the 220nF positions, the only thing is there may not be enough space as 220nF polyprops are quite large. the ideal solution would be to bypass each of the 220nF polyesters on the underside of the board with something like a 220pF silvered Mica or a polystyrene (or a small value polyprop) Just parallel them onto the polyesters.

 Quite straightforward when you see the picture


----------



## PinkFloyd

The headphone socket I mentioned in my parts list is the wrong type!! This is really starting to piss me off, the Neutrik part number for this socket would be appreciated it would save wasting money and time "guessing" the part.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Another thing I can tell you guys: Make sure you select the components you want to use and fit and forget them the first time. The pads, especially the smaller ones, lift at the turn of a hat however careful / good at desoldering you are so component rolling / frequent desoldering is not a good idea unless you want to do p2p under the board..... no big deal but I thought I'd mention it.


----------



## PinkFloyd

More pics, hope they are of assistance. Fitted silvered Mica and Panasonic NHG, just waiting for Buf 634 now:


----------



## rickcr42

Can't seem to find the ones I KNOW I have mike but if they turn up they are yours,regardless of whether you get others first or not.

 just a matter of time before i firgure out the little bast*rds new hiding place 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Question : what kind of bait do you use to get a BUF634 to come out of hiding so it can be captured ?

 Answer : Get a grip dude


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Can't seem to find the ones I KNOW I have mike but if they turn up they are yours,regardless of whether you get others first or not.

 just a matter of time before i firgure out the little bast*rds new hiding place 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 Question : what kind of bait do you use to get a BUF634 to come out of hiding so it can be captured ?

 Answer : Get a grip dude 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Ti's cool Rickster I've got a couple on the way for sure 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Should be here by the end of the week. Now off to drill some holes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Mike.

 PS: I knew that sack of 220nF Wima's would come in handy for something!


----------



## PinkFloyd

That's the initial first fit done. Now all I have to do to the enclosure is spray the end plates satin black and then fit the LED into the chrome bezel. As usual I've only got a pretty crappy knob but that can be swapped as and when.

 These little lincolnbinns enclosures are not bad for £10 each..... far from "awesome" looking but they do look pretty nifty and are pretty easy to work with. Not sure if I'll even bother spraying the end panels as they look quite good "raw". having said that I've got loads of spray paint so I may as well go the whole hog, no point spoiling the ship for a tuppence ha'penny worth of tar is there?

 Rear of amp:











 Front of amp (LED still to be fitted into chrome bezel)


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 I knew that sack of 220nF Wima's would come in handy for something! 
 

I too heard that Wima was pretty good in the sack.......
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 looking good there Mike.that front panel layout is exactly the way i do every headphone amp and to me is the most natural human interface when it come to adjustments unless you happen to be left handed then it is back to fumbly 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 The chassis is also interesting and one I have not seen before (lax in the forums this past year 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 changing though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).

 Not something I would actually use but only because I don't do "off the shelf" for any of my "stuff" (even though it would save a lot of headaches 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).

 Very tidy.I lke it.Like it a lot but....................it needs some gold or brass somehwere.You already have the "silver & black" covered,and the LED needs to be amber or yellow.Trust me on this one Mike 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









 When I am done futzing around with the Cross-1 I will give this the proper attention it needs.I am a "one project at a time done right" kinda person and am not yet ready to fully focus on this baby but when i do i think i am going to go straight to Jans parts selections so the amp will be in actuality a "Meier Audio" amp and not a Rickmonster amp on Meier Board amp.the only way I can actually know the amp is to build it honest and looking at it would say already "voiced" for a particular sound sooooo....me too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 looking good there mikey.good luck tomorrow man


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_I too heard that Wima was pretty good in the sack.......
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Noooo, that's "Wilma" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_looking good there Mike.that front panel layout is exactly the way i do every headphone amp and to me is the most natural human interface when it come to adjustments unless you happen to be left handed then it is back to fumbly 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

head socket as far away from volco as possible, plenty of room.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_The chassis is also interesting and one I have not seen before (lax in the forums this past year 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 changing though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )._

 

Cheap and cheerful. Lincolnbinns Took me 20 minutes to drill it, easy to work with. Pink tip: Fit the front panel, apply a blob of paint on the end of the pot shaft...... slide board in enclosure until pot shaft makes contact with panel..... remove panel and drill where the paint mark is. Do the same with the switch and you're guaranteed a "perfect" fit everytime.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Not something I would actually use but only because I don't do "off the shelf" for any of my "stuff" (even though it would save a lot of headaches 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )._

 

At £10 a pop you're probably cheaper going off the shelf on this one Rick, the board fits in perfectly.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Very tidy.I lke it.Like it a lot but....................it needs some gold or brass somehwere.You already have the "silver & black" covered,and the LED needs to be amber or yellow.Trust me on this one Mike 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





_

 

As I say, that's just the intial slap dash fit to check everything slots in perfectly, next it gets stripped then prepared then sprayed up. it'll look ok when finished.


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_When I am done futzing around with the Cross-1 I will give this the proper attention it needs.I am a "one project at a time done right" kinda person and am not yet ready to fully focus on this baby but when i do i think i am going to go straight to Jans parts selections so the amp will be in actuality a "Meier Audio" amp and not a Rickmonster amp on Meier Board amp.the only way I can actually know the amp is to build it honest and looking at it would say already "voiced" for a particular sound sooooo....me too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Agreed, seems daft using his board and bastardising it into something totally different, defeats the purpose in a way.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_looking good there mikey.good luck tomorrow man_

 

Cheers Rick, I'll do my best.

 Mike.


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 Noooo, that's "Wilma" 
 

Wilma with a lisp : Wima


----------



## PinkFloyd

Anyone else got theirs underway yet??


----------



## 69CamaroSS396

Got my boards today. Wow!! Even got the enclosure end panels for the CROSS-1. Now if I only had the enclosure to match. I think I prefer to have everything in one enclosure, though. Looking forward to gaining enough experience to tackle this project.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *69CamaroSS396* 
_Got my boards today. Wow!! Even got the enclosure end panels for the CROSS-1. Now if I only had the enclosure to match. I think I prefer to have everything in one enclosure, though. Looking forward to gaining enough experience to tackle this project._

 


 It really is quite simple and you'll only gain experience by doing it. Basically, just solder all the correct components into position on the PCB and then connect it all up. I'll upload pics of how to connect the phono sockets etc. once I get my buf 634's installed.

 Take your time with it and maybe practice soldering on an old board (you'll get plenty of old radios etc. in your local dump) before you know it you'll be a dab hand with the soldering iron. There are a lot of good sites on the net that can help you with the basics of soldering.

 Good luck and if you have any questions, this is the thread to ask them in.

 Mike.


----------



## 69CamaroSS396

Thanks Mike! I've done several small amps and my soldering isn't too bad. Maybe I am ready to take this on. In any case, I'm looking forward to this and other projects.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Anyone else got theirs underway yet??_

 

I am so lazy to sit down and order all the parts... I hope this doesn't turn into my Millett Hybrid project.


----------



## duchamp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_ The headphone socket I mentioned in my parts list is the wrong type!! This is really starting to piss me off, the Neutrik part number for this socket would be appreciated it would save wasting money and time "guessing" the part._

 

Would this be stamped on the socket itself? I could open her up again and let you know.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *duchamp* 
_Would this be stamped on the socket itself? I could open her up again and let you know._

 

It really doesn't matter, the more I think about it the more I'd prefer to use a standard head socket. The one Jan uses requires a very precise 22mm cut out on the front panel whereas the standard one can be fitted anywhere and connected to the board via hook up wire (a lot easier and you don't have to worry about being precise to 0.5mm) so the elusive board mounted Neutrik can remain elusive, I'm using a good quality gold plated standard 6.3mm chassis mount socket.


----------



## rickcr42

Always a good idea Mike to have the actual manufacturer catalogs and data CDs and I have the Nuetrik "big bast*rd" full line catalog.If you want I can look up the part unless you are dedicated to going off-board with the jack


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Always a good idea Mike to have the actual manufacturer catalogs and data CDs and I have the Nuetrik "big bast*rd" full line catalog.If you want I can look up the part unless you are dedicated to going off-board with the jack_

 

Well, the offboard jack is actually a better idea IMO as dummy load resistors can be fitted to it and you don't have to be so precise with the panel cut out. The board mounted one is pretty ugly looking and not as smooth in action as a good quality standard type (I ordered one but not the right pin outs for the board) plus it needs a huge 22mm hole on the front panel....nah, I'll stick with the gold plated smooth action type.


----------



## a1rocketpilot

Quick question, my boards came in today and I was looking at the HA-1 board, at the power section specifically. From looking at that, it seems that it is already configured for 110V operation, with no need for jumpering. However, from looking at PinkFloyd's diagram on page 4 of this thread (post 98), he says to jumper the 110V points and the arrows point to the 2 220V points. I am just confused by all of this and any clarification would be very helpful.


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *a1rocketpilot* 
_Quick question, my boards came in today and I was looking at the HA-1 board, at the power section specifically. From looking at that, it seems that it is already configured for 110V operation, with no need for jumpering. However, from looking at PinkFloyd's diagram on page 4 of this thread (post 98), he says to jumper the 110V points and the arrows point to the 2 220V points. I am just confused by all of this and any clarification would be very helpful._

 

These Amveco/Talema transformers can operate at both 110V and 220V, but you have to set the proper jumpers to operate at one AC voltage or the other. Thus, to set the transformer to work with AC 110V, you have to use two jumpers at the positions indicated on the board. For AC 220V operation, you only need one jumper.


----------



## a1rocketpilot

So basically place a jumper between each 110V point and the 220V point closest to it?


----------



## Teerawit

Just in case there's no confusion and you don't blow anything up 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 110V jumpers:





 220V jumper:


----------



## a1rocketpilot

All right, thanks! That is what I was thinking I should do, but its better to be safe than to have something else explode in dramatic fashion.


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 but its better to be safe than to have something else explode in dramatic fashion. 
 

Dramatic explosions are fine as long as you post the pics of the aftermath (during even better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) otherwise no 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 always a real good idea to download all data sheets for every part when doing a project so no matter what you _think_ is right and no matter who says what you can back check yourself by referring to the actual sheet.

 Every project I gather parts,download the data,print then check the parts as I go for accuracy.That or just measure everything which in the end is always a real good idea


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Dramatic explosions are fine as long as you post the pics of the aftermath (during even better 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) otherwise no 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

On a related note, it would be a good idea to test the integrity of the PSU section on the HA-1 by testing it before connecting it to the amp circuit. This is not easy considering that the amp circuit has the majority of small parts, which would be hard to solder to the PCB after soldering all the tall parts of the PSU. I would at the very least leave the opamps and buffers off the PCB so you can test to make sure the PSU is working properly.


----------



## rickcr42

A good way yould be to build the AC section and raw DC section,test for voltage (higher than the regulator voltage !),discharge the caps then build and test the DC regulation stage before assembling the actual audio section.

 Having a working PS is half the battle and too late to find out something is wrong later when you take out all the parts in the audio amp section from a short you never noticed.

 Just make sure you discharge that puppy after each power up and monitor it on your voltmeter for "O VDC" before laying a tool to the pcb.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Found and old marquetry kit in a drawer today with some nice sheets of veneer in it. Glued on a piece to the front panel of the el cheapo enclosure and now all I have to do is sand it and either varnish or oil it.

 The cutout for the switch is ever so slightly off centre but I'm sure I can find something kicking about to cover it with. Wood is very light, hopefully it will darken a bit with the finish and will also bring out the grain a bit more 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			















 That knob just _has_ to be replaced!


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 hopefully it will darken a bit with the finish and will also bring out the grain a bit more 
 

tung oil.Three or four coats

  Quote:


 That knob just has to be replaced! 
 

Vintage Daka-Ware


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_That knob just has to be replaced!_

 

DIY!!!


----------



## Teerawit

I like these knobs, but I'm a bit biased


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_I like these knobs, but I'm a bit biased 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







_

 

Those are awsome knobs. I have the 26mm matte silver on my Millett Hybrid.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_tung oil.Three or four coats
_

 

Stupid me sanded it down as smooth as a babies bottom and applied "raw" linseed oil forgetting that this gear takes a good week to dry between coats, may well scrap that panel and do another one with a more knotty, grainy piece of wood.


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 Stupid me sanded it down as smooth as a babies bottom and applied "raw" linseed oil 
 

un....you did use "boiled" linseed oil right ?

 otherwise it may not dry in your lifetime 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/inflin.shtm


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_un....you did use "boiled" linseed oil right ?

 otherwise it may not dry in your lifetime 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/inflin.shtm_

 

Nope... plain old "raw" linseed oil with no drying agents added. I didn't realise it was "raw" until after I applied the damned stuff 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 You're right, this gear will take at least a week to dry and it's almost impossible to wipe it off.... no big deal


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 You're right, this gear will take at least a week to dry 
 

hopefully you don't have any cats and your residence is dust free or by the time that week is up that sucker will look like it is growing fur 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sticky stuff while drying and a damn dust magnet


----------



## ChrioN

Freakin fast shipment! 4 days and I live in Sweden!

 The PCBs are of very high quality, here is a picture I just took


----------



## duchamp

Has anyone thought about combining the Cross-1 and the HA-1 MKII into one custom enclosure? Although the HA-1 MKII has the crossfeed filter built in, it does not have the EQ adjustment that the Cross-1 has. I find myself missing the low end lost when the crossfeed is used. Jan has other amps with this design, I just wouldn't know exactly how to integrate the two.


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 Has anyone thought about combining the Cross-1 and the HA-1 MKII into one custom enclosure? 
 

totally defeats the purpose of the Cross-1 which is "any amp" universal use and the only reason for the hi/lo trim control switches.
 If the output Z is a known by being built into an amp and the input to the network buffered there is no need for multiple controls other than level of crossfeed and a "defeat" switch.a crossfeed yes,a Cross-1 no.


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 The PCBs are of very high quality, here is a picture I just took 
 

almost looks like a goblet full of multicolor capacitors 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






 ...yeah I know 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Get a grip and stop seeing electronic symbolism in everything you see rick(whacks self in the head....does not hurt 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


----------



## a1rocketpilot

All right, lets end the confusion with the headphone socket. Straight from Dr. Meier himself:

  Quote:


 > What is the Neutrik model number of the particular socket that is used
 > for the HA-1 MkII board?
*
 NCJ6FIH* 
 

Hope this helps out!


----------



## NeilR

A couple people here have asked about cases for the CrossFeed. I am determining interest in a group buy for the cases in this thread. Check in if you are interested. As far as anyone knows here, they cannot be purchased individually in the USA/North America.

 I missed out on the Amp boards and panels, but I saw something here suggesting they use the same case - Alubos 1000. If that is correct, you can get on board this group buy because we have flexibility in case length.

 Regards,
 Neil


----------



## ChrioN

298-1557 @ RS is the correct enclosure


----------



## star1

HA-1 II Amp does use an Alubos case, but a different profile to the Cross-1


----------



## NeilR

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *star1* 
_HA-1 II Amp does use an Alubos case, but a different profile to the Cross-1_

 


 Thanks, star1. I must have misread something here.


----------



## Alf

I am about to start building my HA-1. Has someone put together a parts list yet? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## PinkFloyd

.


----------



## rickcr42

Hey mike,i got the deleted message in my email notification.do you still need that info or have you resolved it ?


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Hey mike,i got the deleted message in my email notification.do you still need that info or have you resolved it ?_

 

Well no, not really Rick. I powered the amp up and DC offset on the L/H channel was 0.02mV ,so far so good, checked the offset on the R/H channel and it was a massive 25Volts. I really haven't had time to concentrate on it what with one thing or the other but will have to address this problem before I do anything else.

 Interesting to note I measured 42V @ the LED pads. yes, "42V" !! Must be a dry joint somewhere or a dodgy component.. good news is she's fired up on one cylinder


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 Interesting to note I measured 42V @ the LED pads. yes, "42V" !! Must be a dry joint somewhere or a dodgy component.. good news is she's fired up on one cylinder 
 

not having the schemo in front of me this is conjecture but sounds like a *"proper" LED hookup * which is across the +/- rails and _not_ the typical V+/Common connection which would 1/2 that number


----------



## Teerawit

Anyone know of a good USA source for polypropylene film caps for the HA-1? WIMA maybe? Specifically, 220 nF caps that will fit the dimensions of the board (around 2.5 x 7.5 mm)


----------



## rickcr42

WIMA-digikey or www.tubesandmore.com


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_WIMA-digikey or www.tubesandmore.com_

 

Unfortunately, Digikey doesn't sell WIMA. Mouser's 220 nF caps (any brand) don't fit the footprint on the PCB I don't think. tubesandmore doesn't sell 220 nF WIMAs.


----------



## [AK]Zip

http://www.welbornelabs.com/wima.htm


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_http://www.welbornelabs.com/wima.htm_

 

Thanks, but they don't have any 220 nF.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_Thanks, but they don't have any 220 nF._

 

Call them. I ordered some for one of my last projects.


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Call them. I ordered some for one of my last projects._

 

Cool. Do you know if they fit the 2.5 x 7.5 mm footprint?


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## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_Cool. Do you know if they fit the 2.5 x 7.5 mm footprint?_

 

I don't have any left over so I would have to order more before I could tell you. I am in the same project as you are though so I will try and find out.

 -Alex-


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## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_My eyes are knackered looking at this bloody thing 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 This is as far as I go folks, the majority of the components are as follows. please note the 0.5W resistors should read "0.4W" I'm too tired to go and correct the list.

 1 x ALPS RK27 10K log potentiometer
 4 x LM6171 op amps
 2 x 2200uF Capacitors
 2 x 3300uF Capacitors
 12 x 220nF Film capacitors
 1 x Toroidal transformer, 3.2VA 2x 15V RS part no: 223-9086
 1 x 1P on-off-on right angle toggle switch RS part no: 448-0911
 1 x headphone socket. (I haven't a clue what the Neutrik part number is!)
 1 x L7915CV -15V 1A Voltage regulator
 1 x L7815CV +15V 1A Voltage regulator
 1 x B8OD 160V 1A DIL Bridge rectifier
 2 x 20mm PCB fuseholders
 2 x 50mA 20mm T fuses
 7 x 0.5W 2k2 resistors
 1 x 4.7R *5W* resistor (*5* WATTS)
 1 x 12K 0.5W resistor
 2 x 0.5W 47K resistors
 2 x 0.22R 0.5W resistors
 4 x zero ohm resistors (or wire links)
 4 x 15M 0.5W resistors
 4 x 1K 0.5W resistors
 2 x 100R 0.5W resistors
 2 x 470R 0.5W resistors
 1 x 7K5 0.5W resistor
 2 x 4K7 0.5W resistors
 6 x 3K3 0.5W resistors
 2 x 220pF film capacitors
 2 x 150pF film capacitors
 4 x 47pF film capacitors
 2 x 10nF film capacitors
 2 x 100nF film capacitors
 2 x Gold plated phono sockets (chassis mount or PCB mount)
 1 x blue LED

* [size=large]Note:[/size] * Most of the component values are *PRINTED ON THE PCB *so double check by looking at your PCB before ordering any parts._

 

You have 5 errors here.

 1. You are missing 1 3K9 resistor
 2. You are missing 1 12k resistor
 3. You mislabeled 2 capacitors. You have 10nf they are 10pf.
 4. You are missing 4 BUF634's
 5. You are missing 4 x 8 pin sockets

 Also you are missing a few minor things like power plug, power switch, case, 


 I will have my full list of parts, part #'s, and where to order in the next few days.

 -Alex-


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## rickcr42

Quote:


 Unfortunately, Digikey doesn't sell WIMA. 
 

dammit you are right ! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I must be getting old since I swear I remember ordering WIMAs from digikey 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe I should have just looked in my Digi-Key "print" catalog which is actually two feet from me as I type this ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (along with EVERY other major parts supplier catalog 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )

 Most of my parts are from Antique Electronic Supply or smaller operations since it is rare I use tiny little pcb parts and other than a great selection of switches the major outlets are mostly seriously lacking in the parts I use.

 I _HATE_ WIMA caps BTW and never use them unless I must


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## rickcr42

BTW

 I still have one more order to place before I actually build this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I figure around a 1/2 hour actual build time once I get amped up and moving but I am in the middle of trying to get a commercial security system designed then installed (yes for actual pay 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) and am trying to get up to speed on something out of my field of expertise.I know the HOW but not what is currently the best of the technology on the price vs, performance front.

 Blind bids suck


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## PinkFloyd

This build is on hold until August now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I received some buf 634's but couldn't get them to adhere onto the pads however hard I tried..... they were lead free so I tried lead free solder, no joy, I tried leaded solder..... no joy. I've never "ever" experienced a problem like this and I have built many many amps over the years. I got so fckin frustrated I actually _araldited_ the bloody things onto the pads.... let's just say I ended up going to town with a chisel and a pair of pliers and totally wrecked the buf 634's, I even hammered them to pieces on the concrete floor of my garage I was that pissed off.

 God only knows why they refused to adhere to the pads, I tried everything but when I ended up trying to _glue_ them to the pads I knew I had totally lost the plot! It's been a weird couple of weeks and I must admit everything that could go wrong "has" gone wrong and not just the amp build. She's away in a box and will not be coming out for quite some time, this has probably been my least favourite build "ever" what with lifting pads and non stick buf 634's, something is telling me not to drive myself up the wall with this one so I won't, when things like this happen it's a message to "stop, reflect, take a rest and go back to it after a few months" If I carry on with it at the present time I'll end up pouring petrol on it and setting it alight..... I blame myself, _not_ the PCB or the buf 634. there's a jinx on me at the moment, there must be, everything's going pear shaped big style.....everything


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_This build is on hold until August now 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I received some buf 634's but couldn't get them to adhere onto the pads however hard I tried..... they were lead free so I tried lead free solder, no joy, I tried leaded solder..... no joy. I've never "ever" experienced a problem like this and I have built many many amps over the years. I got so fckin frustrated I actually araldited the bloody things onto the pads.... let's just say I ended up going to town with a chisel and a pair of pliers and totally wrecked the buf 634's, I even hammered them to pieces on the concrete floor of my garage I was that pissed off.

 God only knows why they refused to adhere to the pads, I tried everything but when I ended up trying to glue them to the pads I knew I had totally lost the plot! It's been a weird couple of weeks and I must admit everything that could go wrong "has" gone wrong and not just the amp build. She's away in a box and will not be coming out for quite some time, this has probably been my least favourite build "ever" what with lifting pads and non stick buf 634's, something is telling me not to drive myself up the wall with this one so I won't, when things like this happen it's a message to "stop, reflect, take a rest and go back to it after a few months" If I carry on with it at the present time I'll end up pouring petrol on it and setting it alight..... I blame myself, not the PCB or the buf 634. there's a jinx on me at the moment, there must be, everything's going pear shaped big style.....everything 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I am sorry to hear something like that happened. I am almost done with my parts list and wanted to know if you would be willing to look over it before I post here for everyone else who wants it. If so I will send it to you once I finish it all up.

 -Alex-


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 This build is on hold until August now I received some buf 634's but couldn't get them to adhere onto the pads however hard I tried..... they were lead free so I tried lead free solder, no joy, I tried leaded solder..... no joy. I've never "ever" experienced a problem like this and I have built many many amps over the years. I got so fckin frustrated I actually araldited the bloody things onto the pads.... let's just say I ended up going to town with a chisel and a pair of pliers and totally wrecked the buf 634's, I even hammered them to pieces on the concrete floor of my garage I was that pissed off. 
 

FKN RoHs dude ! I have been ranting about this crap for over a year and most tried to say i was being delusional !

 Nope.Homework bud and welcome to the future 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Next time double or treble the heat of the joint and _maybe _ you will have better luck,if you don't fkn melt the copper trace adhesive on the board in the process


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_I am sorry to hear something like that happened. I am almost done with my parts list and wanted to know if you would be willing to look over it before I post here for everyone else who wants it. If so I will send it to you once I finish it all up.

 -Alex-_

 

Yeh, sure Alex though I'm probably not the best person to ask given I've just hammered the fck out of 2 buffers.


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 blame myself, not the PCB or the buf 634. there's a jinx on me at the moment, there must be, everything's going pear shaped big style.....everything 
 

Nope.Not you Mike.The hoax (joke ?) that is RoHs complaince at the heart of it.You _will not_ and _can not _ get a proper bond below a certain temp and even then what you end up with WILL deteriorate kinda like it is organic instead of a metal.

 It is 100% fked technology and until you have a setup and parts that are compatible STAY AWAY FROM RoHs PARTS !!!!!!!!!! 

 You need inscreased heat,heat resistant parts and pcb's that have a higher heat tolerance before copper separation and that means we will all have to pay premium prices for inferior goods and that is reality folks.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_
 You need increased heat,heat resistant parts and pcb's that have a higher heat tolerance before copper separation and that means we will all have to pay premium prices for inferior goods and that is reality folks.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I've gathered that already, absolutely bloody ridiculous, I'm now on the hunt for some "leaded" buf 634's anyone got a couple?


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 Yeh, sure Alex though I'm probably not the best person to ask given I've just hammered the fck out of 2 buffers. 
 

welcome to the "Rick Zone"

_[size=small]*SUBMIT OR DIE !!!!!*[/size]_


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_welcome to the "Rick Zone"

[size=small]*SUBMIT OR DIE !!!!!*[/size]














_

 

I must confess I "flipped" with these lead free things, for others confronted with lead free items refusing to stick I recommend reading the following short passage before proceeding:

 Anger And Its Forms 
 Anger is a negative Vritti or whirlpool in the mind-lake. It is born of ignorance. 

 It is a strong emotion, excited by a real or fancied injury and involving a desire for retaliation. 

 Anger is the natural passion or emotion of displeasure and antagonism aroused by injury or insult, real or imagined, and directed against the cause thereof. Anger arises from an idea of evil having been inflicted or threatened. 

 Anger is often accompanied by a desire to take vengeance, or to obtain satisfaction from the offending party. 

 It begins in folly and ends in repentance. 

 The fire you kindle for your enemy burns yourself. 

 When anger arises, think of the consequences. It will soon subside. 

 You think of objects of senses. Attachment to these objects develops. From attachment desire is born. From desire anger comes forth. From anger proceeds delusion; from delusion confused memory; from confused memory the destruction of reason; from destruction of reason you perish. 

 Raga or attachment is a long-standing associate of anger. 

 Control anger through patience, enquiry, self-restrained love and meditation. This is manly and divine. This is wise and glorious. 

 To become angry for trifling things is mean childish and brutal. 

 An angry man is angry with himself when he comes to his senses. 

 Anger is personal and usually selfish, aroused by real or supposed wrong to oneself. Indignation is impersonal and unselfish displeasure at unworthy acts. Pure indignation is not followed by regret and needs no repentance. It is also more self-controlled than anger. Anger is commonly a sin. Indignation is often a duty. We speak of “righteous” indignation. 

 Raga drives one beyond the bounds of prudence of discretion. Fury is stronger and sweeps one away into uncontrollable violence. 

 Wrath is deep and vengeful displeasure. It simply expresses the culmination of righteous indignation without malice in a pure being. 

 Anger is a stronger term than resentment, but not so strong as “indignation” which is awakened by what is flagitious in character or conduct, nor as wrath, fury, rage in which anger is wrought up to a still higher point in the order of these words. Anger is a sudden sentiment of displeasure, resentment is a continued anger, wrath is a heightened sentiment of anger. 

 Philosophy Of Anger 
 It will be admitted on all hands that everyone without any exception whatsoever, is a victim of this horrible malady. Indeed control of anger will bring in its train supreme peace and immeasurable joy. As such, let me presently describe in detail what anger is, its various forms, how it affects the nervous system, its exact relationship with passion and lastly the various practical methods that can be safely employed to effectively eradicate it—root and branch. My one fervent appeal to you all is that, you will apply yourselves heart and soul to the eradication of this dire disease by following these valuable practices. 

 Anger is a Vritti or modification that arises in the mind-lake when the Gunas—Rajas and Tamas—predominate. It is Rajo-Guna Vritti. Some take it as a Tamo-Guna Vritti. It is a wave of unpleasant feeling that arises from the Antahkarana, when one gets displeased with another. It is in other words, a modification of desire or passion. Just as milk is changed into curd, so also desire becomes changed into anger. It is the most formidable enemy of peace, knowledge and devotion. It is the straightest road to hell itself. 

 Anger is a manifestation of Sakti or Devi. In “Chandipath” or “Durga Sapta-Sati” you will find: “Ya Devi sarvabhuteshu krodharupena samsthita, namastasyai namastasyai narnastasyai namo namah.—I bow again and again to that Devi who is seated in all beings in the form of anger.” 

 It was Arjuna who asked Sri Krishna: “But what impels man to commit sin, O Krishna, in spite of himself and driven as it were, by force?” The blessed Lord said: “Kama esha krodha esha rojoguna-samudbhavah, Mahasano mahapapma vidhyena-miha vairinam. Dhumenavriyate vahniryathaadarso malena cha, Yathodbenavrito garbhah tatha tenedamavritam—It is desire, it is wrath, which, springs from passion. Know that it is our enemy here, a monster of greed and sin. As a flame is enveloped by smoke, as a mirror by dust, and as an unborn babe by the womb, so is this enveloped by that.” Gita: Ch. III-37&38. Then again says Sri Krishna: “Trividham narakasyedam dwaram nasanamatmanah kamahkrodhastatha lobhastasma-detattrayam tyajet—Three are the gateways of this hell leading to the ruin of the soul—lust, wrath and greed. Therefore let man renounce these three.” Gita Ch. XVI-21 

 Anger resides in the Linga Sarira (astral body), but it percolates into the physical body just as water percolates through the pores to the outer surface of an earthen pot. Just as heat melts lead, just as heat and borax melt gold, so also Kama and Krodha—the heating factors of the mind—melt the mind. 

 Anger begets eight kinds of vices. All evil qualities and actions proceed from anger. If you can eradicate anger, all bad qualities will die by themselves. The eight vices are; injustice, rashness, persecution, jealousy, taking possession of others’ property, killing, harsh words and cruelty. 

 When a man’s desire is not gratified and when someone stands in the way of its fulfilment, the man becomes angry. The desire gets transformed into anger. When one is under the sway of anger, he will commit all sorts of sinful deeds. He loses his memory, his understanding becomes clouded and his intellect gets perverted. 

 “Krodhat bhavati sammohah sammohat smriti-vibhramah: Smritibhramsat buddhinaso buddhinasat pranasyati.” 

 “From anger comes delusion, from delusion, the loss of memory; from loss of memory, the destruction of discrimination; from destruction of discrimination he perishes.” 

 Anger is the greatest enemy. Contentment is the Nandana garden (the heavenly flower of Indra) and peace is the Kamadhenu. Therefore, take to forgiveness. Atman is different from the body, the Indriyas, Prana and the intellect. It is self-effulgent, unchangeable, pure and formless. 

 An angry man commits murder. He himself does not know what he is exactly doing. He becomes emotional and impulsive. A man when he is angry will talk anything. He will do anything he likes. A hot word results in fighting and stabbing. He is under intoxication. He loses his normal consciousness for the time being. He falls a prey to anger. 

 Irritation, frowning, resentment, indignation, rage, fury, wrath are all varieties of anger, according to the degree of intensity. If a man wants to correct another man and manifests slight anger unselfishly, as a force to check and improve him, then it is called “righteous indignation” or “spiritual anger.” Suppose a man molests a woman and tries to outrage her modesty and a bystander becomes angry with the criminal, it is called “righteous indignation” or “noble rage.” This is not bad. Only when the anger is the outcome of greed, of selfish motives, it is bad. Sometimes a religious teacher has to manifest a little anger outwardly to correct his disciples. This is not bad. He has to do it. But he should be cool within and hot and impetuous without. He should not allow the anger to take deep root in his Antahkarana for a long time. It should pass off the next moment even as a wave subsides in the sea. 

 If a man becomes irritable for trifling things very often, it is a definite sign of mental weakness. When a man abuses you, and when a man takes away your cloth or coat, if you keep quiet, that is a positive sign of inner strength. Self-restraint, or self-control is a sign of great mental strength. An easily irritable man is always unjust. He is swayed by impulses and emotions. 

 Anger gains strength by repetition. If it is checked then and there, man gains immense strength of will. When anger is controlled, it becomes transmuted into spiritual energy that can move the three worlds. Just as heat or light is changed into electricity, so also anger becomes changed into Ojas. Energy takes another form. Energy is wasted enormously when one gets angry. The whole nervous system is shattered by an outburst of anger. The eyes become red, the body quivers, the legs and hands tremble. No one can check an angry man. He gets enormous strength for the time being and gets a collapse after sometime on account of reaction. 

 Instances are recorded wherein women have killed their children by nursing them with breast-milk when they were in a fit of anger. Various poisons are thrown into the blood when one is angry. Fiery dark arrows shoot out from the astral body. These can be seen clearly by clairvoyant eye. In the light of modern psychology, all diseases take their origin in anger. Rheumatism, heart-disease, nervous disease are all due to anger. It takes some months for the restoration of normal equilibrium in the nervous system. 

 Passion is the root and anger the stem. You will have to destroy the root (passion) first. Then the stem (anger) will die by itself. A passionate man is more angry. A Brahmachari who has preserved his Veerya always keeps a balanced mind. He has a cool brain at all times. 

 The root cause of anger is ignorance and egoism. Through Vichara (right enquiry), egoism should be removed. Then alone can one control his anger completely. Through development of the opposite virtues such as Kshama, love, Santi, Karuna, friendship, etc., anger can be controlled to an enormous degree. The force can be reduced. Atma-jnana alone can fry all Samskaras of anger and eradicate it in toto. 

 If an aspirant has controlled anger, half of his Sadhana is over. Control of anger means control of lust also. Control of anger is really control of mind. He who has controlled anger cannot do any wrong or evil action. He is always just. It is very difficult to say when a man will be thrown into a fit of fury. All of a sudden he gets an irresistible fit of anger for trifling matters. When anger assumes a grave form, it becomes difficult to control. It should therefore, be controlled even when it is in the form of a small ripple in the subconscious mind (Chitta). One should watch his mind very, very cautiously. Whenever there is the least symptom or indication of light irritability, then and there it must be nipped. Then it becomes very easy to control anger. Be careful and vigilant and watch the ripple, then only you are a sage. 

 Whenever there is a little irritability, stop all conversation and observe Mouna (the vow of silence). Practice of Mouna daily for one or two hours is of great help in controlling anger. Always try to speak sweet soft words. The words must be soft and the arguments hard; but if the reverse is the case it will lead to discord and disharmony. There is a sharp sword in every tongue. 

 If you find it difficult to control anger, leave the place at once and take a brisk walk. Drink some cold water immediately. This cools down the body and mind. Chant ‘OM’ loudly like a lion for ten minutes and then chant ‘OM SANTI’ mentally or verbally for five minutes. 

 Think of the picture of your Ishtam. Pray. Repeat your Ishta Mantra for ten minutes. Gradually the anger will vanish. 

 Find out the real cause of your anger and try to eradicate it. If a man abuses you and calls you names, you become furious at once. Your blood becomes hot. Why do you feel offended when he calls you ‘a dog’ or ‘a donkey’? Have you developed now four legs and tail like a dog? Why do you get excited for little things? Enquire: What is this abuse? Is it not mere vibration in the ether? Am I body or Atman? No one can injure Atman. The Atman of the abuser and the abused is one. Do I really gain anything by retaliating? I waste my energy. I hurt the feeling of another man. I disturb and pollute the thought world. I do real harm to the world by sending a current of hatred. This world is unreal. I will live here for a short time only. Let me bear this insult. Let me excuse him. I will develop inner mental strength and power of endurance. You can thus very effectively eradicate the feelings of anger. A time will come when you will not be irritated even a bit by harsh words, abuses and insults, of this kind. You will not pay the least heed if a man says that such and such a man has said bad words against you. You will simply laugh the whole matter away. An irritable man is very weak and has no mental strength. 

 You must try to remain cool even in the most provocative conditions. If you are hungry and if you suffer from any disease, you generally become more irritable. If you have some troubles, difficulties or loss, you get irritated for little things. If a Sannyasi who lives in the cave says that he has controlled anger, you cannot believe him. The waves are for the time being suppressed. There are no opportunities for his getting irritated. If some transactions take place, if he is ill-treated, he will again manifest his anger. The world is a better training college for the control of anger. 

 An aspirant should direct all his attention towards the conquest of this powerful enemy. Sattvic food, Japa, regular meditation, prayer, Satsanga, service, Vichara, Kirtan, practice of Pranayama and Brahmacharya—all are some of the most potent factors that pave a long way in eradicating this dire malady. A combined method should be adopted in its eradication. Smoking, meat-eating and drinking of liquors make men very irritable. Therefore, these should be completely abandoned. Be careful in the choice of your company. Give up the companionship of evil characters. Talk little. Mix little. Plunge yourself into the spiritual Sadhana. Develop Kshama (forgiveness), Visva Prema (cosmic love), Karunya (mercy) and Nirabhimanata (absence of egoism). 

 Meditate in the morning on the virtue of patience for ten minutes. Reflect and repeat the formula ‘OM PATIENCE’ mentally several times daily. Remember the saints and their lives. Say unto yourself: “I am patient now. I will never get irritated from today. I will manifest the virtue of patience in my daily life. I am getting better and better.” Feel that you possess a magazine of patience. Think of the advantages of possessing this virtue and the disadvantages of irritability. You may fail many times but you will develop patience gradually and become an embodiment of patience. 

 “He who is able to resist the force of desire and anger even before he quits his body—he is a Yogin, he is a blessed man.” (Gita Ch. V-23) 

 “Those who are free from desires and anger and who have subdued their minds and realised themselves—around such austere men lies the beatitude of God.” (Gita Ch. V-26) 

 Do not identify yourself with the Vritti of anger. When a wave of anger arises in the mind-lake, stand as a witness of the Vritti. Become indifferent. Say unto yourself: “I am witness of this modification. I am distinct from this Vritti. I have nothing to do with this wave.” Then this Vritti will die by itself. It will not disturb you. Identification with the Vritti is the cause of human sufferings. Identify yourself with the Self. Stand like a lion, as a spectator of the mental menagerie. 

 Live in the spirit of the above two Slokas. Eradicate anger. Manifest inner spiritual strength. Realise Satchidananda Atman. Glory unto those who have rooted out their anger and attained knowledge of the Self! 

 Anger: More Powerful Than Desire 
 It is usual to regard Anger as a corollary or counterpart of desire, since it usually appears when desire becomes frustrated. Psychologically, the two are interrelated. Yet from the point of view of the spiritual Sadhaka whose main task is to purify the mind, anger is a more powerful foe than desire. It is worthwhile analysing the cause of the defeat too frequently sustained by the Sadhaka when he wages war with anger. 

 First, it has to be remembered that the Sadhaka has to carry the fight all alone and unaided. In this encounter with Kama, he has the co-operation of Society. Public opinion bears the brunt of the warfare. If he reveals his Kama in its objectionable form he falls in the estimation of those whose good opinion he values. To be calumniated by his detractors is wounding to his vanity. To be reproved by his friends is painful. To be thought ill of even by those towards whom he is indifferent is displeasing to him. All these thoughts are positive aids in carrying out his mental fight with Kama. Far different is his condition when he attempts to conquer anger. Exhibition of temper is not regarded as a moral delinquency by the public. Provocation is put forth as an excuse and justification for reprehensible outbursts of anger, and is accepted as a mitigatory plea by the indulgent public. Society seems to stand still with folded arms when an angry person frets, fumes or raves. It would appear that ‘society’ even goes to the enemy’s camp and goads it (anger) to strike harder and harder so as to thoroughly overpower the lonely victim. Not infrequently are found a good many who irritate an already angry man merely for the fun of seeing him infuriated. Men are so callous by nature that they are pleased when gazing upon the antics of a lunatic, and the difference between an angry person and a maniac is only one of degree. The result is that the spiritual Sadhaka, when assailed by his arch enemy anger, is too often overpowered. 

 Secondly, there operate certain sentiments which put on the cloak of virtues and misguide the unwary spiritual pilgrim. One such is named self-respect. Forgetful of the fundamental truth that the aspirant should be indifferent alike to praise and censure, he takes his stand on self-respect—after all a slippery and unreliable foothold—and in his over-anxiety to protect it, fails to notice the stealthy approach of his foe anger, till it is too late. ‘Love of country.’ ‘Duty to one’s own wife and children’, ‘solicitude for the needy and the poor’ are all wrongly regarded as justification for getting angry. Whatever may be the value of these sentiments from the point of view of the community or the nation, they should not cloud the understanding of the spiritual Sadhaka, whose one and only aim should be to conquer his mind. 

 Anger, like fever, is a symptom which shows that something has gone wrong in the inner mechanism. The mental machinery gets heated for want of timely lubrication. The most effective of all lubricants is Introspection or Reflection. Even the most angry man realises his folly after his anger is spent out. It is then that he begins to reflect upon what he did. If this reflection had come to him before he got angry, he would not have got angry at all. But that would be possible only if he had made reflection or introspection over his habit. The habit must be formed in good time if the evil is to be averted. 

 Cause Of Anger 
 Anger makes everybody its slave and victim. It breaks the friendship of even very intimate friends. It even induces wives to quarrel with their husbands and make them file suits. It excites all. It holds sway more or less over the whole world and the Devatas also. 

 Anger destroys reason and makes man do things which cannot be dreamt of. Under the influence of anger man abuses, insults and even murders his father, brother, wife, Guru or king and repents afterwards. 

 Anger influenced even Hanuman the mightiest Brahmachari to burn Lanka. He lost his understanding and then repented “Alas! I have burnt the whole of Lanka under the influence of anger. This fire might have burnt Mother Sita also. What shall I do now? How can I return without Janaki Devi? I became a victim to anger. How powerful is anger? I am a powerful Brahmachari. I have destroyed passion to its very root and branch and yet I have not controlled anger. How powerful it is! It is more powerful than passion.” 

 Too much loss of semen is the chief cause of irritability and anger. Passion is the root and anger the stem. You will have to destroy the root (passion) first, then the stem (anger) will die by itself. A passionate man is more angry. A man who has wasted his seminal energy becomes irritated soon for little things even. A Brahmachari who has preserved his Veerya always keeps a balanced mind. He has a cool brain at all times. 

 Eradicate anger. Manifest inner spiritual strength. Realise Satchidananda Atman. Glory unto those who have rooted out their anger and attained knowledge of the Self! 

 Hints For Control Of Anger 
 1. Be alert. Pray. Do more Japa. Practise Vichara. Keep a watch over your mind. Be silent. Observe Mouna daily for an hour. Forget and forgive. Bear insult and injury. Observe Brahmacharya. 

 2. See God in all. Submit to God’s will. Then you cannot get angry. 

 3. In the morning meditate on the virtue of patience. Manifest it during the day. Take a vow ‘I will practise endurance and Kshama (forgiveness) during the day’. 

 4. Speak sweetly. Speak little. 

 5. Mix little. Have congenial company. Have Satsanga. Read spiritual books. 

 6. Remember the lives of saints like Ekanath, the Avanti Brahmin of the llth Skandha of the Bhagavata. You will derive inspiration. You will develop love and Kshama. 

 7. Give up intoxicating liquors, meat and tobacco. 

 8. Remember the Gita Slokas describing anger as monster and gate to hell. (Ch. III-37 and Ch. XVI-21). 

 9. If you find it difficult to control anger, leave the place at once. Take a long walk. Drink cold water. Repeat ‘Om Santi’ l0 times. Do Japa of your Ishta Mantra or count from 1 to 30. Anger will subside. 

 10. Stand as a witness of the Vritti of anger. Be indifferent to it. Do not identify yourself with it. Identify yourself with the Atman. Fill the mind with ideas of love, joy, etc. 

 11. Develop patience to a considerable extent. People lose their temper when they become impatient. Allow the mind to dwell constantly on the opposite of anger, the virtue of patience. This is the Pratipaksha Bhavana, method of Raja Yogins. 

 12. Do not give vent to anger. Control the body first. Have physical control. Practise this again and again. Be regular in your Japa and meditation and Kirtan. This will give you great inner spiritual strength. 

 13. Food has a great deal to do with irritability. Take milk, fruits, Moong-ki-dall, curd, spinach, barley, groundnuts, butter milk. Do not take carrots, onion, garlic, cauliflower, Massoor-ki-dall and drumstick. 

 14. Observe Mouna for two hours daily. Occasionally observe Mouna for a whole day. This will put a check on the impulse of speech. When a man gets excited, he speaks anything and everything. He has no control over the organ of speech. 

 15. Prana entwines the mind like a creeper. Pranayama leads to the control of mind. Pranayama will put a break on the impulse of speech. It will give you abundant energy to check anger. 

 16. Do not argue much. Do not retort. Speak sweetly always. Do not use abusive words. Become a man of measured words. If a man abuses or insults you, keep quiet. Identify yourself with Atman. Atman is the same in all. It can never be hurt or insulted. 

 17. A Vedantin denies the body and mind as illusory sheaths. He does Vichara, enquires, ‘who am I’ and practises ‘Neti-neti’ ‘not this, not this’. ‘I am not body’. ‘I am not mind’. ‘Chidanandarupah Sivoham’. ‘I am blissful Siva or Atman.’ He identifies himself with Brahman or Atman, the Eternal. The world is unreal for him. He chants OM, sings OM and does Japa of OM and meditates on OM and derives soul-power and spiritual strength. 

 18. If you entertain Mithya Drishti, Dosha Drishti, if you look into the defects of anger and the benefits of patience, you will never become angry. 

 19. The combined method is more effective. If one method fails, take recourse to the combined method. Do Japa, Pranayama. Sometimes do Vichara. 

 Song Of Anger 
 Anger is very powerful; it can destroy all Tapas. 
 It subdued Durvasa. It conquered Yajnavalkya. 
 It is the enemy of peace. It is the foe of knowledge. 
 It is born of Rajo-Guna; irritability is another form. 
 It is all-devouring. It is all powerful. 
 It is the gate of the hell. It destroys the Atmic Pearl. 
 When desire is not gratified, it manifests in the mind-lake. 
 It makes the Jiva senseless, it makes him do all Adharmas. 
 It makes him more furious. It makes him its slave. 
 It makes him perfectly blind. It makes him lose his understanding. 


 Anger Has Its Raison D’etre 
 If there is no desire 
 There will be no activity; 
 The whole world will come to a standstill. 
 But you will have to convert all desires 
 Into one strong desire, Mumukshutva. 
 Anger has its usefulness. 
 Mother punishes the child for its correction. 
 A king punishes the criminal for his correction. Anger gives protection. 
 Convert Moha into attachment for God. 
 Convert greed for money into generosity and charity. 
 You will be elevated. 


 Forms Of Hatred 
 Jealousy is hatred 
 Anger is hatred 
 Ghrina is hatred 
 Irshya is hatred 
 Asuya is hatred 
 Amarsha is hatred 
 Remove hatred through love, 
 Prayer, Japa, service and meditation. 


 Boomerang 
 Anger acts as a boomerang 
 Because it injures the man 
 Who becomes angry. 
 It comes back to the angry man 
 And does harm to him. 
 Therefore control anger 
 By Kshama, love, enquiry and service. 


 Ill-Effects Of Anger 
 Anger is born of ignorance. 
 Anger is a modification of desire. 
 Anger arises from avarice, selfishness. 
 Anger arises when one is insulted, abused, criticised, 
 When his defects are pointed out. 
 Anger springs when a desire 
 Is not gratified. 
 Anger comes when someone 
 Stands in the way 
 Of gratifying one’s desire. 
 Anger manifests from loving 
 One’s own opinion. 
 From desiring to be honoured 
 From imagining that, one 
 Is wiser and superior than everybody. 
 Anger obstructs reason 
 Anger clouds understanding 
 And poisons the blood, nerves and the whole system. 
 Annihilate anger through love, forgiveness, enquiry, devotion, discrimination. 
 Wisdom, prayer, service, Sattvic food. 
 Selflessness, desirelessness, 
 Japa, meditation, Nitya-Drishti, 
 Dosha-Drishti and Tanmaya-Drishti. 

 Dialogue On Anger 
 Anger: I will make the people blind and deaf. I will overpower them with wrath and suffocate them with rage. I will catch hold of even wise men. They shall neither hearken to what concerns their own happiness, nor reflect what they had read in the scriptures. 

 Instigated by me, Indra killed Vritra, the son of Tvashtra; Lord Siva cut off the head of Brahma; the Kaushika killed the sons of Vasishtha. In a moment I can destroy even the learned, the famous, those who are attentive to duties, charitable and the mighty potentates. 

 I can infuse fury, resentment, wrath, indignation into the minds of all in the twinkling of an eye. I am very powerful. I will disturb the Tapas of the aspirant and even Yogis and destroy serenity. 

 The Jiva: Alas, who will help me now? 

 Kshama: I will. I will pull out the venomous tooth of this demon, Anger. 

 Visva Prema: I will. And I am the water to quench the fire of anger. 

 Viveka: I will. When I rise, anger dies. 

 The Story Of A Sadhu Who Had Controlled Anger 
 This is the Kutir of the famous Santananda. See the colourful board proclaims: THIS IS THE ABODE OF SANTANANDA WHO HAS ACQUIRED COMPLETE MASTERY OVER ANGER. “Come, let us have the Darshan of such a Mahatma,” said a pious man to his friend. 

 “Oh, no, it is not so easy to control anger. Don’t be deceived. What will you gain by the Darshan of this proud man who advertises his angerlessness? If you wish, you can go in and have the Darshan of the great soul! But, please stay there till the evening; and then tell me if you would still admire the divine soul. I am off.” And he went away. 

 When the pious soul entered the Kutir, little did he know that his friend had set out to collect Instigators of Irritation. 

 “Maharaj,” said the pious man prostrating himself to the Mahatma, “what a great and divine soul you are to have acquired mastery over this formidable foe of man, Anger. There is no one in the three worlds equal to you.” 

 “Even so it is, my friend. The man who has conquered anger is greater than Brahma, Rudra and Indra; for even they were often overpowered by anger.” 

 “Maharaj, will you kindly tell me the way to control anger?” 

 “O yes, gladly. Kindly remain with me and serve me. Even by such service of Mahatmas, you will get over anger.” 

 And, the pious man became the Mahatma’s disciple. 

 Another young man entered: “Maharaj, you are the Mahatma who has controlled anger?” 

 “O yes, did you not see the board outside?” 

 “Yes, yes, please tell me how you managed to do that.” 

 “By my strong will-power. There is nothing that a man of strong will-power will not be able to do. 

 “Wonderful. Thank you.” The young man leaves the cottage. 

 Almost instantly another young man enters. “Maharaj, have you controlled anger?” 

 “O yes, did you not see the board outside?” 

 “Yes, yes, please tell me how you managed to do that.” 

 “By meditation on the all-pervading Immortal Santa Atman that dwells in all beings. When one Self alone pervades all, how can one be angered against another, how can one abuse another, and how can one harm or injure another? Through protracted meditation on this great truth I have got over this anger which destroys the peace of man.” 

 “Wonderful. Thank you.” The young man leaves the cottage. 

 Instantly another young man appears. 

 “Maharaj, have you completely annihilated anger?” 

 “O yes, did you not see the board outside?” 

 “Yes, yes, Maharaj. But how did you manage to do that?” 

 “Come, sit down. I will tell you. You see passion and anger are the twin children of Rajo Guna. Now if you persistently and diligently cultivate Sattva in you, you can completely eradicate these Rajasic qualities! I ate Sattvic food. I always entertained Sattvic thoughts. I uttered Sattvic words, full of love, truth, solicitude and kindness. I practised Sattvic Tapas. I performed Sattvic charity. I always studied scriptural texts which increased the Sattva in the mind. I live and move constantly in Sattvic atmosphere. Through Pranayama also I have increased the Sattvic content of my mind. Friend, it is a long and hard struggle. But at last I have achieved the goal. I have attained success in my Sadhana. I am an embodiment of Sattva now. I am full of love; anger has vanished.” 

 “Wonderful, Thank you.” The young man leaves the cottage. 

 At once another man enters. 

 “Maharaj, have you controlled anger?” 

 “O yes, did you not see the board outside?” 

 “Yes, yes, but I want to know how you achieved it.” 

 “I wish to go out to answer calls of nature. But never mind, my duty towards you, my own Self, is more important. I will tell you the secret. You see; anger has various forms. You are fully aware of the grossest form. The blood boils; the eyes are blood shot! There is great heat in the body; limbs tremble; lips quiver; fists are clenched; and the man stammers and fumbles for words in great fury. 

 The subtler form of irritability you know about. In a milder form all the symptoms I have just described exist here also. Still subtler is displeasure. It is pride mixed with anger. With a sharp word or a grunt, you dismiss the ‘nuisance’. These are all forms of anger. In extremely subtle forms, anger becomes righteous indignation and pity. The man who thinks that he is always in the right, gives vent to what he calls righteous indignation in order to protect Dharma. If he does not, he, in the lordly style pities the person who has offended him. “Now I have got over and beyond all these forms of anger. Even the Sattvic righteous indignation and pity do not trouble me now. I first controlled the gross forms of anger. The anger arose in mind and it subsided there itself. Then by meditation I controlled these subtle ripples of irritability. By the diligent cultivation of a feeling of oneness I got over the displeasure—form of anger. I cultivated indifference towards wicked people and thereby got over the out-bursts of righteous indignation and pity. Now I shine as Santananda radiating peace and happiness to all.” 

 “Thank you, Maharaj, wonderful.” The young man leaves, crossing the next at the threshold. Santanandaji rose from his seat and once more attempted to leave the hall when the next young man accosted him. “Maharaj, just a minute. Have you controlled anger?” 

 In a slightly raised voice Santanandaji said: “Yes, why do you ask that question? Have you not seen the board outside?” 

 “Yes, Maharaj. But I want to know how I can do that.” 

 “I will tell you. Drink a glass of cold water when you find your temper rising. Or count from one to twenty. Or, leave the place at once.” 

 And Santanandaji tried to leave the hall along with the young man when the next one rushed in. 

 “Maharaj, have you controlled anger, and how?” 

 Visibly affected by this annoyance. “Only to avoid this constant repetition of the truth, I have announced it on the board outside. I have told the methods also to a number of people.” 

 “But I want to hear from your holy lips.” 

 “All right. Observe Mouna: You will be able to control anger." 

 “Thank you, Maharaj.” 

 “Look here,” said Santanandaji addressing the pious man who came first and who had been watching all these proceedings, “see that no one enters the Kutir for some time till I answer calls of nature, bathe and have my food and rest.” 

 “Maharaj, if I begin to prevent them, they will quarrel with me and I will lose my temper. I won’t do that. I want to be your true disciple.” 

 At once another young man rushed inside, “Maharaj, you have completely eradicated anger: And how?” 

 Santanandaji, addressing the first disciple; “Please ask him to go away. I have to answer calls of nature urgently.” 

 “But won’t you share your secrets with me, Maharaj?” pleaded the latest arrival. 

 “I won’t drive him out. Why should I lose my temper?” said the first disciple. 

 “I will kick both of you out of my house,” roared Santananda. “Good-for-nothing young man troubling me the whole day, without letting me have a few moments respite. What do you think I am? A gramophone-box or a radio-receiving set? I have told you once and more than once that I have got over anger. And these people come again and again to trouble me. Get out all of you and see me no more. If you stay here for a minute more I will murder you. Here take this and get out if you don’t believe that I have the strength to handle you.” He slaps the two young men, drives them out and locks the door. 

 Outside, the pious man’s friend was waiting. “Have you had the Darshan of the great Mahatma who has controlled anger? Are you satisfied?" said he to the pious man who went in to have the Mahatma’s Darshan. “It is not so easy to control anger. It can be controlled only through God’s Grace. Continuous practice of humility is necessary. Ego must be crushed. Cosmic love must be cultivated. Selfless service must be ceaselessly and untiringly practised. Even then the seed of anger will be there hidden in the bosom. You don’t know where it hides itself. By Japa, meditation and ceaseless Sadhana with Isvarapranidhana or self-surrender to the Lord; by constant prayer ”O Lord! I am nothing; Thy Will be done" and “Lord, grant me freedom from all vice,” you will be able to invite His Grace. Then, when the all-pervading Self is realised and Jnana is obtained, then and then alone will this greatest enemy of man, anger, be totally annihilated. Well, well; in any case this Santananda had a little bit of success in his Sadhana. He had also given us valuable hints on how to control anger. We are all benefited. He had failed only because while he had controlled anger to a certain extent, he had allowed vanity to grow in him to the same extent. Anger only had taken the form of vanity in him. Ego assumes various forms. All these forms are different in name only. He who finds out the hiding places of this formidable ego and through ruthless enquiry into the nature of the Ego and the nature of the Self, which is the Reality behind this false ego, he and he alone can be said to have controlled anger. He will not only have annihilated anger, but he would have destroyed all vices. He will be humble, simple, and divine, an embodiment of love and compassion. Come, we shall continue our search for such a divine personality. His Darshan will purify us. His service will elevate us to divine heights."

*Remember this before you hammer the fck out of your components!*


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 I've gathered that already, absolutely bloody ridiculous, I'm now on the hunt for some "leaded" buf 634's anyone got a couple? 
 

I was unable to find the ones i thought were kicking around so i assume they were already "gifted" out.something i do often actually but don't make a big deal of here by posting details though if I DID i would at least have a record of what went where 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 anyway.I will bounce an order in to see if my "pipline" can scare a couple up since apparently I also need two down the road and if ordering two,four is just as easy


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## rickcr42

Just for chuckles and giggles I checked TI's BUF634 page and i gotta say the future is bleak.Looks like across the board RoHs compliance and considering the BUF634 popularity any re-stocking will be these devices 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and no,my source is dry but offered to oder more (pass !) and yes,they are in stock at various outlets but sadly my guess is ALL complaint parts so adjust thos soldering irons or buy a soldering GUN and crank the heat !

http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folder...4.html#symbols


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## rickcr42

BTW-Pink,anger is also a great motivator that releases certain endorpines which combined with the adrenaline rush is a very powerful combination if under the control of a superior intellect with an alpha Male disposition to all things.some use it as the motivator to get things done,to control their environment and MAKE IT HAPPEN before the inital emotion thus required chemical release disperses and that person returns to being just another pissed off human

 work the anger baby ! works for me REAL GOOD ! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






 [


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## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Just for chuckles and giggles I checked TI's BUF634 page and i gotta say the future is bleak.Looks like across the board RoHs compliance and considering the BUF634 popularity any re-stocking will be these devices 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and no,my source is dry but offered to oder more (pass !) and yes,they are in stock at various outlets but sadly my guess is ALL complaint parts so adjust thos soldering irons or buy a soldering GUN and crank the heat !

http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folder...4.html#symbols_

 

Ah, balls to them I'll get to work on the LEADED WNA MKlll


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## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_
 I HATE WIMA caps BTW and never use them unless I must 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

What caps are you going/planning to use?


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## rickcr42

Solen or Obliggato for C1/C2,716P Sprague Orange Drop C3/C4 and SBE 715 Orange Drop in the C5 hole 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (edit : that is for the crosss-1,the HA-1 i am going to play it straight)


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## duchamp

I'm getting ready to order the necessary components and would like to get everyones advice as to what upgraded caps and resistors I should consider. I'm debating the Black Gates for the larger caps but other than that I'm not sure how to proceed. It looks like I should probably stick to the original OpAmps, but any advice there would be great too. Thanks in advance for helping an amp building beginner!


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *duchamp* 
_I'm getting ready to order the necessary components and would like to get everyones advice as to what upgraded caps and resistors I should consider. I'm debating the Black Gates for the larger caps but other than that I'm not sure how to proceed. It looks like I should probably stick to the original OpAmps, but any advice there would be great too. Thanks in advance for helping an amp building beginner!_

 

How are you going to put Blackgates there? Which blackgates will you be using? From all the one's I looked at Blackgates are out of the question.

 -Alex-


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## duchamp

Maybe the PK series? I might be mistaken though. It looks like Black Gate doesn't make a cap in the PK series with the higher values needed. What other excellent quality cap might work?


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## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *duchamp* 
_Maybe the PK series? I might be mistaken though. What other excellent quality cap might work?_

 

The ones below will work:

 BLKGATE-60194FK2200uF 35v 18 x 35 $24.50

 I haven't found any that are 3300uF that will work. I am going to go with Nichicon or Panasonic caps.

 -Alex-


----------



## [AK]Zip

rickcr42: Have you found a transformer here in the US that will work as a direct drop in?

 -Alex-


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_rickcr42: Have you found a transformer here in the US that will work as a direct drop in?

 -Alex-_

 

Amveco 70013

http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/Pro...&V=196&M=70013


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_Amveco 70053

http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/Pro...&V=196&M=70053_

 

That won't work. I already saw those. Those transformers are 60mmX60mm and we only have 46mmX46mm to work with.

 -Alex-


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_That won't work. I already saw those. Those transformers are 60mmX60mm and we only have 41mmX41mm to work with.

 -Alex-_

 

Woops. Amveco 70013.

 It's a 3.2W transformer, just like the one on Jan's page.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_Woops. Amveco 70013.

 It's a 3.2W transformer, just like the one on Jan's page._

 

Wow I really need to quit doing this when I am tired. I measured it to be 41mm as opposed to 46mm. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yea... Only select parts during the day. Funny how that was the transformer I originally found on digi-key about a week ago.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks.

 -Alex-


----------



## duchamp

I beleive its actually this one-
 (URL removed)
 The ratings match as well as the number 70013 stamped on the transformer you can view in the photo of my amp that [Ak]zip posted.

 Sorry that link didn't seem to work but it looks like you found the correct one, the 70013


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 I haven't found any that are 3300uF that will work. I am going to go with Nichicon or Panasonic caps 
 

Better choice anyway.Go with the Panny FC series

  Quote:


 It looks like I should probably stick to the original OpAmps, but any advice there would be great too 
 

I would.

 Opamps are not the "drop in replacement" most think (and why so many are always crapting around with opamp swaps-not optimised).Use another opamp and you not only should adjust the circuit to match it but no way could it then be called a J.Meier Amp but "just another amp using a HA-1 pc board".
 As long as I can remember this was Jan's opamp of choice so to use anything else would be to make a "new" amp entirely and if so then none of the parts list needs to be followed.

  Quote:


 rickcr42: Have you found a transformer here in the US that will work as a direct drop in? 
 

Not yet man.I like to focus 100% on one project at a time and am still in the final order/final decision "voicing" stage of the Cross-1 (I like to get the combos of parts just right 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ).

 The holdup has been trying to design a security system concurrently plus doing a contract build locally that is turning into a client/builder nightmare 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 It is almost like we are talking two different languages though I am rapidly getting to the point where the universal "go XXXX yourself with my fee and never talk to me again if you like breathing" will be clearly understood 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 long story short-I have not looked yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Woops. Amveco 70013. 
 

see ? someone always comes through in the clutch 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


 Wow I really need to quit doing this when I am tired. 
 

Other than learning how to solder and how to read a schematic that is the #1 lesson in DIY that many need to learn (and hardest lesson).If you are tired or frustrated WALK AWAY !
 rushing to get something done usually means making a mistake and I like to step off after every twenty minutes or so,watch the news or read the paper,grab a cup of java then have back at it ready to rock for another 1/2 hour.
 The worst is when you are close,ohhh sooo close and the temptation is to get it done after already being at it for too long.THAT is when you start wiring in the wrong parts or reversing polarities on polarised parts and until you let out the magic smoke when you flip the switch to "ON" did not even notice the mistake 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 We're gaining guys.Easy is the way and the amp is not going anywhere. 
 Just like with a first date with someone you have been lusting after-if you rush it you end up with nothing but an attitude


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *duchamp* 
_I'm getting ready to order the necessary components and would like to get everyones advice as to what upgraded caps and resistors I should consider. _

 

I'm going to use either Nichicon PW or Panasonic FM caps for the electrolytics. For the film ones...well that's still a mystery to me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






  Quote:


 I'm debating the Black Gates for the larger caps but other than that I'm not sure how to proceed. 
 

That's a bit overkill IMO; also you'd have to do some creative PCB mounting since the Black Gate electrolytics don't fit the footprint outlined on the board.
  Quote:


 It looks like I should probably stick to the original OpAmps, but any advice there would be great too. 
 

I am personally going to stick with the intended LM6171 myself....it's a very good but incredibly finicky opamp...and this HA-1 circuit is optimized for the LM6171. Since Jan has done the grunt work for us, why not use it? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 If you're looking to use the more standard FET-input opamps, why not try the usual suspects like the Pimeta, PPA, M3, etc.?


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Wow I really need to quit doing this when I am tired. I measured it to be 41mm as opposed to 46mm. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yea... Only select parts during the day. Funny how that was the transformer I originally found on digi-key about a week ago.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks.

 -Alex-_

 


 The correct transformer is the Nuvotem Talema one described earlier in this thread it fits perfectly and remember there are 8 pinouts from the tranny that match up with the PCB.


----------



## duchamp

Thanks all. I will definately be using the LM6171. Your'e right about leaving a well designed amp well enough alone! Looks like I'll go with the Panasonic caps. Any thoughts on resistors? Does it matter much? I'd like to go with 1% but not sure what brand. Maybe Vishay's?


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *duchamp* 
_Thanks all. I will definately be using the LM6171. Your'e right about leaving a well designed amp well enough alone! Looks like I'll go with the Panasonic caps. Any thoughts on resistors? Does it matter much? I'd like to go with 1% but not sure what brand. Maybe Vishay's?_

 

I will be using Vishay/BC Components .4Watt

 They are 1%

 -Alex-


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *duchamp* 
_Any thoughts on resistors? Does it matter much? I'd like to go with 1% but not sure what brand. Maybe Vishay's?_

 

I'm going to be using the Vishay/Dale RN55 series resistors, which are 1% (rated at 0.125W but good for 0.25W usage).


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_I'm going to be using the Vishay/Dale RN55 series resistors, which are 1% (rated at 0.125W but good for 0.25W usage)._

 

You need .4watt though don't you? Not 1/4th. I need to look over this if 1/4th will work I will use Vishay/Dale like I did in my millett.

 -Alex-


----------



## rickcr42

RN65 would be my choice in a Vishay-Dale or go with the Vishay-BC's


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_You need .4watt though don't you? Not 1/4th. I need to look over this if 1/4th will work I will use Vishay/Dale like I did in my millett.

 -Alex-_

 

Jan used 0.25W in his builds (also stated on the website).


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_Jan used 0.25W in his builds (also stated on the website)._

 

Thats what I thought by the size of it. Looking at all of it I didn't see the reason for .4W resistors at all. I guess Vishay/Dale it is.

 EDIT: Teerawit did you get a chance to look at those 2 switches I PMed you about last night?

 -Alex-


----------



## dhp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Thats what I thought by the size of it. Looking at all of it I didn't see the reason for .4W resistors at all. I guess Vishay/Dale it is.

 EDIT: Teerawit did you get a chance to look at those 2 switches I PMed you about last night?

 -Alex-_

 

So RN60Ds it is


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DieInAFire* 
_So RN60Ds it is_

 

RN60 would be too fat to comfortably fit (if it would fit at all) on the PCB.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_RN60 would be too fat to comfortably fit (if it would fit at all) on the PCB._

 

WAY too fat. The switch required is the one I refer to in my parts list, it fits and it works.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_You are missing 4 BUF634's_

 

What are you talking about? it only requires "*2*" buf 634 not 4


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_I will have my full list of parts, part #'s, and where to order in the next few days._

 

Thanks for pointing out the errors in my parts list Alex. As explained I only had a few minutes to look @ the board and I did say to double check the values (as printed ON the PCB) before ordering any parts. Please do modify my parts list accordingly to include the parts I missed out.

 One thing I can confirm, the transformer and the switch in my parts list are the CORRECT articles for the PCB. All the other parts are pretty much bog standard and you won't have any difficulty whatsoever sourcing them, the values are all printed ON the PCB.

 A note on the caps: The 2 x 3300uF caps measure 27V in circuit so use 25V as a bare minimum (that is allowing +/- 20% which would mean the 25V caps "could" be stretched to 30V) preferably use 35V caps. The 2200uF caps have about 16V going across them in circuit so, again, use 16V as an absolute BARE minimum but preferably choose 25V types for the 2200uF caps.

 Mike.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_What are you talking about? it only requires "*2*" buf 634 not 4_

 

Like I said. I am not working on this any more at night. It was my mistake. Looking over the whole thing seems like the only 1, but I will double check.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_A note on the caps: The 2 x 3300uF caps measure 27V in circuit so use 25V as a bare minimum (that is allowing +/- 20% which would mean the 25V caps "could" be stretched to 30V) preferably use 35V caps. The 2200uF caps have about 16V going across them in circuit so, again, use 16V as an absolute BARE minimum but preferably choose 25V types for the 2200uF caps.

 Mike._

 

Yep. Thats exactly what I was saying earlier. 35v and 25v caps will be used.

 -Alex-


----------



## rickcr42

a lot to be said for late builds.By the time I clear the decks of everything else on my plate and do the amp you knucklheads should have a BOM worked out and all I will need to do is select local compatibles.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW-rick don't do 1/4 W unless it is SMD and there it is actually less so :

 Rick don't do 1/4 watt


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_a lot to be said for late builds.By the time I clear the decks of everything else on my plate and do the amp you knucklheads should have a BOM worked out and all I will need to do is select local compatibles.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 BTW-rick don't do 1/4 W unless it is SMD and there it is actually less so :

 Rick don't do 1/4 watt 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

I will have a BOM done before friday. What W are you using if not 1/4? Also, why not 1/4?

 -Alex-


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 What W are you using if not 1/4? Also, why not 1/4? 
 

personal fetish and no other reason.Maybe it is the wimp factor of tiny little parts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 0.4W,0.5W but no 0.25 watt if I can help it and since swearing off SMD (RoHs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) have no more need to do chip resistors so................


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_personal fetish and no other reason.Maybe it is the wimp factor of tiny little parts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 0.4W,0.5W but no 0.25 watt if I can help it and since swearing off SMD (RoHs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ) have no more need to do chip resistors so................_

 

Just use 1watt all around! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Except of course that 1....


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Just use 1watt all around! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Except of course that 1...._

 

Have you seen the size of the holes on the PCB? You'll be pushing it with large wattage resistors, why not just go with the 0.4W Jan suggests? I see no value in using 1 watters, no value at all.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Have you seen the size of the holes on the PCB? You'll be pushing it with large wattage resistors, why not just go with the 0.4W Jan suggests? I see no value in using 1 watters, no value at all._

 

It was ment to be a joke. I am actually going to go with 1/4watt.

 -Alex-


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 I see no value in using 1 watters, no value at all. 
 


 .....but,but but Mikey ! They come in such cool colors man 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I like and will stick to my "manly" 1/2 watters and when I need to bump up in wattage it is straight to power tabs with bolt on heat sinks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 tip-unless you get great air flow no way you get 1W dissapation from a 1W resistor in a closed chassis unassisted.even those pretty metal can resistors are only good at the full rating when cranked down to a heat sink (the chassis 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )

 has nothing to do with anything but felt like posting it anyway


----------



## Ballooshi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_I will have a BOM done before friday._

 

I'm sure I speak for many others --- we anxiously look forward to your post, to compare with the "whats" and "wheres" of our own lists.

 Let the debates begin!


----------



## star1

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Have you seen the size of the holes on the PCB?_

 

I've started to build the board, and listen to what PinkFloyd says, those resistor holes are small.


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 I've started to build the board, and listen to what PinkFloyd says, those resistor holes are small. 
 

Your gonna listen to a guy that beat the crap out of two BUF634 buffers with a freakin' hammer on a cement floor ? THEN BRAGGED ABOUT IT !!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





*You are a very brave or very foolish human *






 just funnin' ya Mikey,you "da man" dude


----------



## mb3k

Has anyone found faceplates that fit the Bolpa case (as I missed out on the supply of Cross-1 faceplates)?


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_Your gonna listen to a guy that beat the crap out of two BUF634 buffers with a freakin' hammer on a cement floor ? THEN BRAGGED ABOUT IT !!!!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





*You are a very brave or very foolish human *






 just funnin' ya Mikey,you "da man" dude 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

LOL!


----------



## Teerawit

What wattage 0.22 ohm resistors would be suitable? In the schematic it looks like alot of power is going to go through them...


----------



## dokebi

PinkFloyd - buffer slayer


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_What wattage 0.22 ohm resistors would be suitable? In the schematic it looks like alot of power is going to go through them..._

 

1W will work. If you look at the schematics the 4.7ohm is 4W and the 3k9 is 1W. They are in the same power line and the holes on those are just like all others so if someone wanted they could populate this board with 1W resistors.

 -Alex-


----------



## Teerawit

ok next question...where the heck can you find 10 pF film caps?


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 ok next question...where the heck can you find 10 pF film caps? 
 

someone have a stash of polystyrenes hanging around ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 BTW-if you guys have never actually soldered a 10pf polystyrene you are in for a real treat 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Teeny tiny capacitor with axial leads as thin as human hair and a very insubstantial plastic casing that melts at the slightest hint of heat 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (Hint : pre-tin the cap leads and the solder pad on the pcb,use a solder aid tool to pin that sucker down and get on/off the actual joint QUICKLY once the solder flows.Linger too long and your caps are toast buddo ! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_someone have a stash of polystyrenes hanging around ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 BTW-if you guys have never actually soldered a 10pf polystyrene you are in for a real treat 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Teeny tiny capacitor with axial leads as thin as human hair and a very insubstantial plastic casing that melts at the slightest hint of heat 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (Hint : pre-tin the cap leads and the solder pad on the pcb,use a solder aid tool to pin that sucker down and get on/off the actual joint QUICKLY once the solder flows.Linger too long and your caps are toast buddo ! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )_

 

It's really not as thin as a human hair, but getting there. Regardless its not really hard at all. Take a look at me fixing the L3000 driver. That is what I call way smaller then a human hair... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 Take a look at me fixing the L3000 driver. That is what I call way smaller then a human hair... 
 

"Rick takes a pass"


----------



## rickcr42

Damn expensive but even so,anyone have experience with these babies ?

http://www.soniccraft.com/relcap_rte_capacitors.htm

 looks like the same type of internal contruction to the Mallory type polystyrenes but with a far more substantial casing and leads


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *dokebi* 
_PinkFloyd - buffer slayer 




_

 

Honestly guys I don't make a habit of destroying components! What with one thing and another the past few weeks my head has been up my arse and I shouldn't really have been let loose on anything that required a modicum of "thought" as my mind just wasn't on the task. I'm back, firing on all four cylinders now and just awaiting a couple of replacement buffers and that'll be the Corda up and running quite the thing. What even made me think that aralditing the buffers into place was a good idea.....god only knows, let's just put it down to a "Momentary Lapse Of Reason"....... back in the land of "engage brain before soldering" now!!!

 All the best.

 Pinkie.


----------



## rickcr42

*Television may have* *"Buffy The Vampire slayer"* *but we have our very own 
[size=small]

[/size]*[size=small]_*"Mikey The Buffer Slayer"*_[/size]



  Quote:


 I ended up going to town with a chisel and a pair of pliers and totally wrecked the buf 634's, I even hammered them to pieces on the concrete floor of my garage I was that pissed off. 
 

_Take THAT you dastardly Buffer you !!!!_


----------



## Voodoochile

Quote:


 I ended up going to town with a chisel and a pair of pliers and totally wrecked the buf 634's, I even hammered them to pieces on the concrete floor of my garage I was that pissed off. 
 

No blowtorch? How can you get medieval without a blowtorch? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I'm thinking of Marsellus Wallace addressing Zed.


----------



## duchamp

Anyone worked out a BOM yet? I'm interested in seeing what components everyone will be using.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Mine will probably be posted today. A few final parts and mine is done.

 -Alex-


----------



## Teerawit

Who has them TO package BUF634s?


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_Who has them TO package BUF634s?_

 

I couldn't find those in stock anywhere. I bought mine off of someone here.

 -Alex-


----------



## 00940

Polystyrene caps can be found at reasonable prices on ebay.de. Pick carefully the seller though, some are selling cheap, low quality stuff from the former DDR.


----------



## Ballooshi

Has anyone found a source for the Alps Blue 10K pot in the U.S.?


----------



## Ballooshi

Hi All ---

 I've attached my partially completed BOM spreadsheet. Missing some parts, still wrestling with the Caps I'll use, and was too lazy to fill in the resistors, which will mostly be Vishay 1% metal film, either 1/4 or 1/2 watt.

 Hope someone else will find it useful, if for nothing else to organize their own BOM.

 Cheers,

 Ballooshi


----------



## [AK]Zip

Well I just placed my order on everything except the film caps and the pot. The rest will be ordered tomorrow. I decided to hold on before I put up the full BOM because I want to make sure I got everything right and it's working. I will be putting it together as the parts come in so about 1 week max.

 -Alex-


----------



## [AK]Zip

I am still waiting on 1 order and the rest of this will be done. Once the order comes in and everything is up and running I will post the BOM for everyone.

 What is done so far:












 -Alex-


----------



## Teerawit

Beautiful


----------



## mb3k

Has anyone found a replacement faceplates for the Cross-1?


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_Beautiful 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Thanks. I hope to get it done this week.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mb3k* 
_Has anyone found a replacement faceplates for the Cross-1?_

 

Why not just buy a Hammond case or another case which has both face plates and just cut the holes out yourself?

 -Alex-


----------



## dhp

Will there be a group buy for the MK2 enclosures as well?


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DieInAFire* 
_Will there be a group buy for the MK2 enclosures as well?_

 

I don't see the point since we didn't get any of the faceplates. Also, I found a Hammond case that fits it very well for $20.

 -Alex-


----------



## dhp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_I don't see the point since we didn't get any of the faceplates. Also, I found a Hammond case that fits it very well for $20.

 -Alex-_

 

what's the part number on mouser/digikey?


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DieInAFire* 
_what's the part number on mouser/digikey?_

 

Mouser part no: 546-1455N1601BK

 That is for the black aluminum one. If you want the non black just remove the BK. It is only like $2 cheaper. Once again the full bom will be posted once the rest of the parts come in.

 -Alex-


----------



## PinkFloyd

I'm still waiting for these fickin buf 634's to arrive! The amp is ready to go, cased, the lot just have to solder in the buffers.... will report back when they arrive 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Mike.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_










 -Alex-_

 

Lovely.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_I'm still waiting for these fickin buf 634's to arrive! The amp is ready to go, cased, the lot just have to solder in the buffers.... will report back when they arrive 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Mike._

 

Just a suggestion when soldering them. I had my station up to 600*. Also I put solder on the pads on the sides (both sides) first and then heated it up and added some more solder. Overall not a very long or difficult process, but it is much harder then soldering anything else on this board.

 -Alex-


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Just a suggestion when soldering them. I had my station up to 600*. Also I put solder on the pads on the sides (both sides) first and then heated it up and added some more solder. Overall not a very long or difficult process, but it is much harder then soldering anything else on this board.

 -Alex-_

 

The ones I'm waiting for are fully leaded baby!


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Overall not a very long or difficult process, but it is much harder then soldering anything else on this board._

 

Why is this? Is it b/c the pads come off easily?


----------



## rickcr42

looks like "wire wrap" may be making a comeback 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The fact that you need to do ANY extra steps just to solder a standard part that has been available for ten years problem free is enough to make me very apprehensive and especially so when those "steps" or on such a large contact-surface area part.Imagine how the part-to-pad bonding is using home tools and 30 pin SMD parts ? Ramp up the heat for bonding then melt the chip plastic ? Overheat the internals ? Not like there is any soldering aid type heat sink available for micro parts.......

 I am determined to obtain leaded buffers for this project then will never use the BUF634 again ever and when all other buffers go lead free will go back to discrete output stages and when _THAT_ goes 100% lead free will stay with NOS tubes.
 Sourcing a lousy buffer should not be this big a deal and consume so much time yet it is.Maybe the audio manufacturers seen this coming,purchased all available stock of the leaded parts from all the major suppliers and why there is a shortage where not too long ago there was a surplus.That or someone is already hording and will break them out on eBay for triple the cost

 mini-rant over


 and no more hammers near the workbench Mike


----------



## Teerawit

Time for some creative DIP-to-TO mounting of the BUF634s then? I have some DIP8 ones laying around


----------



## rickcr42

Quote:


 Time for some creative DIP-to-TO mounting of the BUF634s then? I have some DIP8 ones laying around 
 

Normally I would say yes but the problem with the BUF634 (and all other multile package buffers) is you do not get close to the current spec in the real world without a heat sink.The plastic pack DIP devices are even more lacking and why so many "stack" numbers of them which by itself brings in SQ limitations in my opinion.

 On that point there are two camps of thought :

 1-Multiple parallel devices to lower the overall noise level,increase power output drive and reduce output impedance
 2-Single device for increased clarity and better note separation on low level signals chosen for adequate drive and an output impedance matching the intended load

 In a loudspeaker system power amplifier _low level detail_ takes on a totally different meaning than when the same sentence is used in a headphone based system which by using a transducer coupled damn near 1:1 with your ear,and interface that can be considered "direct drive",means everything is under the sonic microscope.
 Loudspeakers unless very high in efficiency AND listened to at close range have a relaxed "detail" requirement that is mostly masked by the general ambient sound of the average home so the multiple parrallel devices and high volume sound levels work.

 Speaker/high efiiciency systems are closer to headphone sound with the smallest recorded event being reporduced with _acoustic power_ in place of the former _electrical power_ so you will find more often than not the good sounding systems are simple single signal amplifying elements be they tubes or transistors and the more simple the system,the more KISS the driver if you want great sounding results :

 single driver full range system,no crossover=single ended,single device pure class-a

 Take that same high efficiency system and break it up into woofer/midrange/tweeter and you have what ? a crossover !

 because of this reactive element added into the former pure "direct drive" of the amp/speaker interface you now need to _muscle up_.
 That means either increased power to overcome the xover network,lower impedance output at the amp to reduce the amount of xover/amplifier interactions or both and this usually means PP operation for an increase in power and/or multiple parrallel devices to lower the Z (gets a bit more involved but this is the gist)

 So if the above is true,and a single driver speaker sounds best with a simple power interface yet a complicated multiple driver system with a crossover needs a more aggressive interface which of the above does the "single element" headphone driver have in common with ?

 and if you agree with any of the above at all you can clearly see (and maybe hear,I do) why a pure single buffer whips parallel buffers for headphone driving use and why multiple plastic package buffers look great on the spec sheet butr really are not the best choice for headphone driving unless all you are after is POWER while leaving the "nuance" behind.

 Long winded way of saying we are screwed


----------



## rickcr42

missed this earlier :

  Quote:


 Why is this? Is it b/c the pads come off easily? 
 

all about heat and pad size.when you have a solid copper "blank" pc board you would be hard pressed to remove the copper from the G-10 fiberglass substrate but as soon as you "etch" the traces you usually end up with a very small copper to fiberglass ratio.

 Since soldering involves heat and heat needs to disperse or it will burn something up when there is a large copper area available to solder a part the copper traces act just like a heat sink but if those traces are small pads there is no where for this heat to go so it "melts" the bond between the copper and the fiberglass and means copper separation.

 RoHs NEEDS _higher_ heat temps in order to bond the metal to metal contact points even as well as can be expected and because of this you can end up with damaged parts or damaged pc boards if you are not careful.

 for parts NOT SMD there is the clip on heat sink option for the actual part but the board copper ? Nothing


----------



## Teerawit

hmmm....time to get a Metcal then?


----------



## rickcr42

First try this 






 and if it does not work there is always the "Mike Fix" with a "Rick" twist







*More Power Dammit !!!!*


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *rickcr42* 
_First try this 






 and if it does not work there is always the "Mike Fix" with a "Rick" twist







*More Power Dammit !!!!*_

 

hehe,

 You could also use crocodile clips supplemented with epoxy resin and then encase the entire shooting match in ready mix concrete, that should provide a pretty reliable joint but future servicing would be a bit hard unless you're prepared to spend hours with a hammer and chisel.


----------



## Ballooshi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_The ones I'm waiting for are fully leaded baby!_

 

Found fully-leaded non-ROHS BUF634T at http://www.jameco.com
 Jameco part number 277544
 $7.85 each, in stock


----------



## rickcr42

That is actuall very funny.I actually shop there for other things,have the print catalog within three feet of me right now and never even checked them as a source 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 nice looking out


----------



## a1rocketpilot

I suspect their supply of BUF634's is about to take a decent hit...


----------



## Teerawit

meh, lead-free or not, the metcal i'm orderin is gonna take care of it


----------



## jl123

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_meh, lead-free or not, the metcal i'm orderin is gonna take care of it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Spreading the word I see...I feel your excitement.


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *jl123* 
_Spreading the word I see...I feel your excitement. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah, just tryin to decide which model


----------



## duchamp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *teerawit* 
_ Anyone know of a good USA source for polypropylene film caps for the HA-1? WIMA maybe? Specifically, 220 nF caps that will fit the dimensions of the board (around 2.5 x 7.5 mm)_

 

I found this place online. 
http://www.tawelectronics.com/
 Looks like they have a pretty decent selection of WIMA caps and OK prices from what I can tell, and they are within driving distance for me which is a plus. I'm planning on using the WIMA FKP2 for the 220nF positions. Not sure about the pF positions yet. I cant seem to find any polystyrene caps made by WIMA. I read somewhere there's a "KS" series of this type. Anyone know? Any recommendations on the pF caps? What are the ups and downs of polystyrene vs. silvered mica? Does one tend to sound better?


----------



## PinkFloyd

The leaded buf 634's finally arrived, soldered them in and BINGO she fired up first time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Will upload some pics tomorrow. First impressions are extremely good.... tight, fast, neutral, articulate and controlled with nothing bloated or accentuated. Actually, very typical LM6171 signature giving good insight into the mix and pretty good seperation between instruments.

 She's burning in as I type this, will report back tomorrow with some pics.

 Mike.

 Edit: the crossfeed is so subtle you'll think it isn't working! Fire some Beatles up and flick the switch and you'll hear it working its magic! superb.

 Measurements: DC offset L/H 0.03mV R/H 0.09mV that's bloody good going with the LM6171 and not a trim pot in sight!

 Edit: superb design Jan! Very enjoyable amp to listen to and a piece of cake to put together "if" you can get hold of the buf 634!


----------



## PinkFloyd

Pictures as promised. Please note this was done "on the cheap" and I only used parts I had at my disposal. I'm not too keen on the wood veneer but that can be ripped back and replaced at a later date, I'm not keen on the knob either but it's smooth and functional so that's all that really matters. anyways, here's the completed article.. total cost about £30 ($52) and well worth every penny:

 Before the wood veneer:





 With wood veneer, completed amp:


----------



## PinkFloyd

Just removed one of the nuts from the volco (don't know why I fitted 2!) and trimmed the shaft down a bit..... looks better I think: (camera has highlighted dust particles)











 PS: The rubber around the crossfeed switch is simply a hole entry grommet cut in half (snipped with cutters) and is a very tight fit so there's a cheap tweak for you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Finishes it off nicely IMO


----------



## [AK]Zip

Mike,

 Post pictures of the finished inside. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 -Alex-


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Mike,

 Post pictures of the finished inside. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-_

 

eh? I've already posted pics of the inside Alex..... just imagine it with buffers on the board and you'll get the idea. Consider the inside "perfection". That's her screwed down for good now, job done. If you need any hook up diagrams I'll upload some. really, it's a piece of cake.

 Basically run the mains earth (ground) to the board and also to the chassis and ground tags of the phono sockets. left right and ground wires to the input on the board and that's you ready to rock and roll.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_eh? I've already posted pics of the inside Alex..... just imagine it with buffers on the board and you'll get the idea. That's her screwed down for good now, job done. If you need any hook up diagrams I'll upload some. really, it's a piece of cake._

 

Nah. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was just wanting to see more pictures...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am still waiting on my caps.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Nah. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I was just wanting to see more pictures...
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am still waiting on my caps.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-_

 

OK. I'll prize out the screw covers tomorrow, slide her out, and take some pics for you. no probs.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_OK. I'll prize out the screw covers tomorrow, slide her out, and take some pics for you. no probs._

 

Nah no need in taking it apart. Hopefully the rest of my stuff comes in Monday and I will just post pics of mine. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Nah no need in taking it apart. Hopefully the rest of my stuff comes in Monday and I will just post pics of mine. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-_

 

Well, I may be taking her apart anyways to try some bypassing of the caps so I'll take a few snaps when I'm under the hood..... now I've got her up and running can start messing about experimenting 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Your caps should be with you soon Alex, can't wait to see your completed amp 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Sounds pretty good!


----------



## PinkFloyd

Just to give you an idea of the compact size of the completed article here are a few pics of her beside a V2 and with an X-10D on top of her:


----------



## PinkFloyd

To be inkeeping with the latest "craze" for serial numbers I'm going to label this puppy "Pink 01" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Seems to me that sound quality doesn't matter these days as long as you've got a good "serial number" that's all that counts 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Pink_01 "sounds" good to me


----------



## Teerawit

What cap are you using for the ground-loop breaker?


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_What cap are you using for the ground-loop breaker?_

 

3300uF electrolytic across the board (panasonic NHG 105c series)
 WIMA 220nF 
 Silvered Mica and some ceramics

 Ground loop breaker (the 100nf caps) WIMA MK4 (I think!)

 Edit: Yes, they look like 100nF WIMAs:


----------



## Teerawit

The ground-loop breaker cap is the 220 nF one right behind the big 4.7 ohm resistor.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_The ground-loop breaker cap is the 220 nF one right behind the big 4.7 ohm resistor._

 

It probably is. I just looked at Jan's instructions which mention 100nF:

"The headamp incorporates a ground-loop breaker. The ground-connection of the mains-socket is directly connected to the case of the headamp. It is connected to the ground-plane of the audio-circuit via a 4.7 ohm resistor in parallel with a 100 nF capacitor. This resistor prevents 50/60 Hz currents from flowing freely along the ground connections between the various audio components in a system, and thus reduces the 50/60 Hz hum. The 100 nF provides adequate RF-shielding."

 Whatever, I plonked the relevant value caps onto their corresponding slots (with values printed on the board) so whether it's 100nF or 220nF I used WIMA caps.

 Mike.

 Yup, 220nF WIMA in that position. You can see it poking its head up from the underside of the PCB in this picture, I decided to reverse mount it to allow adequate breathing space for the big resistor:


----------



## a1rocketpilot

Mike, you said that you used 3300uf electrolytics across the board, so you didn't use 2200uf's in the respective slots? Would you recommend this or is this pretty much overkill?


----------



## Ballooshi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Well, I may be taking her apart anyways to try some bypassing of the caps so I'll take a few snaps when I'm under the hood..... now I've got her up and running can start messing about experimenting 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_The metallised polyesters (220nF) are my choice of cap and I actually prefer them over polypropylene but it's all down to personal taste. You may prefer fitting polyprops in the 220nF positions, the only thing is there may not be enough space as 220nF polyprops are quite large. the ideal solution would be to bypass each of the 220nF polyesters on the underside of the board with something like a 220pF silvered Mica or a polystyrene (or a small value polyprop) Just parallel them onto the polyesters._

 

I'd be interested in seeing pics after you install the bypass caps. Pardon my newbie questions, but are the bypass caps used to keep the power supply electrolytics from introducing noise into the signal path? Or used to provide a "reserve boost" to the circuit when needed? Where would they be connected in Jan Meier's schematic?

 I notice that in Jan's latest headamp, the Corda Headfive, he uses bypass caps.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Jan Meier* 
_The HEADFIVE is a sonically improved version of the (discontinued) HA-1 MkII. It has a built-in regulated power-supply with toroidal transformer and Nichicon capacitors, all bypassed with film-capacitors. It uses four LM6171 opamps and two BUF634 output buffers to provide adequate output currents. Volume is controlled by an ALPS potentiometer. All capacitors in the signal path are polypropylen or polystyrol (!). Of course our proprietary crossfeed filter (switchable) is not missing._

 

TIA for the lesson.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *a1rocketpilot* 
_Mike, you said that you used 3300uf electrolytics across the board, so you didn't use 2200uf's in the respective slots? Would you recommend this or is this pretty much overkill?_

 

Overkill but the 3300uF was all I had at my disposal. Put it this way 3300uF instead of 2200uF certainly won't do any harm and the additional capacity can only be good 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Edit: Plus, it works with all 3300uF so it must be ok 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_ Pardon my newbie questions, but are the bypass caps used to keep the power supply electrolytics from introducing noise into the signal path? Or used to provide a "reserve boost" to the circuit when needed? Where would they be connected in Jan Meier's schematic?

 I notice that in Jan's latest headamp, the Corda Headfive, he uses bypass caps.
_

 

Good question Ballooshi. Using a film bypass cap is primarily an attempt to get rid of the series inductance of the large electrolytic by providing a parallel (cap is bypassed in parallel) lower inductance gateway through the smaller film cap. The combined cap ('lytic and film cap) then looks more of an ideal cap over the frequency spectrum which helps especially with the high frequencies.

 Paralleling just "one" film cap onto an electrolytic is sometimes not such a good idea as it's _possible_ this could cause resonance at audio frequency. Ideally you will parallel two (or more) different value film caps onto an electrolytic. A good starting point if you are using, say, a 1000uF is to parallel something like a 1uF, a 100nF and a 100pF onto the the 1000uF. the bypass caps (film caps) can be a combination of polypropylene, silvered mica, ceramic, polyester. well, anything you like! This is where it gets into "fun" territory and really it is a case of suck it and see as far as the results are concerned. You are effectively "voicing" the caps to your own preference and experimentation here is recommended! If you only use one bypass cap or get the combo of caps wrong sometimes you'll find that it absolutely shags the HF up something rotten so, in some instances, you're best off "not" bypassing.

 Modern caps like the Panasonic FC have very low ESR (equivalent series resistance) and some say there is no need to bypass them at all, I tend to agree with this, you "can" over egg your pudding and actually end up making things sound worse. So, if you are going to experiment with bypassing don't automatically assume it will sound "better" just because you've soldered a couple of exotic film caps onto each electrolytic.... you may find it sounds worse, then again it may sound better.... the secret is in the ingredients, the balance and there's lots of trial and error involved. The only tool required here is your "EARS" lots of listening and lots of comparing notes.

 So, to sum up. A good quality low ESR electrolytic does not necessarily need a bypass cap to make it sound "good". Bypassing "can" make the sound _different_ and you may be able to mix together a concoction of bypass caps that will suit your ears and sound more "realistic" to you than the electrolytic on its own.

 Hope this helps you and, if in doubt, just don't bypass the 'lytics, modern caps are so much better across the range than they used to be.

 Mike.


----------



## Ballooshi

Jan Meier's website states that he uses 1/4 watt metal films in this amp. However, when I spec the 1/4 watt Vishay Dale 1% (RN60), they are too large to fit on the PCB. Only the V/D RN55, which are only 1/8 watt, would fit on this PCB. Will I run into problems if I use the RN55?


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_Jan Meier's website states that he uses 1/4 watt metal films in this amp. However, when I spec the 1/4 watt Vishay Dale 1% (RN60), they are too large to fit on the PCB. Only the V/D RN55, which are only 1/8 watt, would fit on this PCB. Will I run into problems if I use the RN55?



_

 

I think I mentioned this on page 2 of this thread (or somewhere) buy resistors that are too big and they won't fit which is (I suppose) why Meier recommends 1/4 metal films. Welwyn RC55 will fit but why you'd want to waste money on them I don't know. This is not a snipe but a little bit of common sense is required before ordering parts to ensure the bloody things will fit on the board, check the spec sheet of the resistors you're contemplating and look at the dimensions. compare to the slots on the board and you've got your answer.

 And that's from me who ordered resistors so HUGE I had to drill out holes to accommodate them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Check out the two green whoppers:






 Bloomin' quid each too!


----------



## Ballooshi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_I think I mentioned this on page 2 of this thread (or somewhere) buy resistors that are too big and they won't fit which is (I suppose) why Meier recommends 1/4 metal films. Welwyn RC55 will fit but why you'd want to waste money on them I don't know. This is not a snipe but a little bit of common sense is required before ordering parts to ensure the bloody things will fit on the board, check the spec sheet of the resistors you're contemplating and look at the dimensions. compare to the slots on the board and you've got your answer._

 

Thanks Mike, I have already determined that the RN60 (1/4 watt, 10.8mm minimum lead spacing) will not fit on the PCB unless installed vertically. The lead spacing on the PCB is 7.5mm. The RN55 (1/8 watt, 7.37mm lead spacing) will fit without tombstoning. My main question is, am I going to get in trouble 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 if I use the RN55 1/8 watt, since Jan Meier says that he uses 1/4 watt.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_Thanks Mike, I have already determined that the RN60 (1/4 watt, 10.8mm minimum lead spacing) will not fit on the PCB unless installed vertically. The lead spacing on the PCB is 7.5mm. The RN55 (1/8 watt, 7.37mm lead spacing) will fit without tombstoning. My main question is, am I going to get in trouble 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 if I use the RN55 1/8 watt, since Jan Meier says that he uses 1/4 watt._

 

Well, I actually used 0.4W (almost 1/2 watt) I can't advise you on anything "lower" than Jan suggests but can say... he recommends 1/4 watt for a good reason


----------



## duchamp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *duchamp* 
_I found this place online. 
http://www.tawelectronics.com/
 Looks like they have a pretty decent selection of WIMA caps and OK prices from what I can tell, and they are within driving distance for me which is a plus. I'm planning on using the WIMA FKP2 for the 220nF positions. Not sure about the pF positions yet. I cant seem to find any polystyrene caps made by WIMA. I read somewhere there's a "KS" series of this type. Anyone know? Any recommendations on the pF caps? What are the ups and downs of polystyrene vs. silvered mica? Does one tend to sound better?_

 

Anyone have any advice? Is this a dumb question?

 Thanks for adressing the resistor question PinkFloyd, I had the same question. I've received all the IC's for the board and getting ready to order the resistors, caps, and the other odds and ends as soon as I can get these noob issues figured out. Thanks everyone for the great info.


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_Thanks Mike, I have already determined that the RN60 (1/4 watt, 10.8mm minimum lead spacing) will not fit on the PCB unless installed vertically. The lead spacing on the PCB is 7.5mm. The RN55 (1/8 watt, 7.37mm lead spacing) will fit without tombstoning. My main question is, am I going to get in trouble 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 if I use the RN55 1/8 watt, since Jan Meier says that he uses 1/4 watt._

 

RN55 will be fine. They are rated at 1/8W because they are mil-spec, but for our applications they are good for 1/4W.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_RN55 will be fine. They are rated at 1/8W because they are mil-spec, but for our applications they are good for 1/4W._

 

I'm sorry but how is a 1/8 watt resistor ok for use in a 1/4 watt application? They are rated @ 1/8 watt irrespective of the mil-spec designation. You're suggesting they will handle 1/4 watt as they are mil-spec, probably will, but to be absolutely correct a 1/4 watt should be utilised as per Jan's recommendation. I'm always extremely pedantic when it comes to mains voltages inside an amp and using underrated resistors (military or not) is not good advice to give out.

RN55 specs here


----------



## Teerawit

1) correct me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't appear this amp will be dissipating 1/4 watts where the resistors are

 2) 1/4W generic metal films are readily available; Jan simply says that he used 1/4W (again probably because they are more readily available), not that it's imperative (see #1)

 Can you do some power measurements to be sure?


----------



## [AK]Zip

If you guys take a look at how weak the transformer is (mA) you will be able to figure out what will and won't work. I hate getting into resistor discussions so I am staying out of this.

 -Alex-


----------



## Ballooshi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_If you guys take a look at how weak the transformer is (mA) you will be able to figure out what will and won't work. I hate getting into resistor discussions so I am staying out of this.

 -Alex-_

 

I guess I'd better get out my Forrest Mims Electronics Primer from Radio Shack and revisit Ohm's law! Where is Tangent when you need him?

 Alex, what resistors are you using in your BOM?


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_I guess I'd better get out my Forrest Mims Electronics Primer from Radio Shack and revisit Ohm's law! Where is Tangent when you need him?

 Alex, what resistors are you using in your BOM?_

 

Anywhere from 5Watt to 1/4th. I actually have 2 .4watt in 1/8 bodies. Once again I am hoping the rest of the parts come in tomorrow and I will then post my BOM and more pictures.

 -Alex-


----------



## dhp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_I'm sorry but how is a 1/8 watt resistor ok for use in a 1/4 watt application? They are rated @ 1/8 watt irrespective of the mil-spec designation. You're suggesting they will handle 1/4 watt as they are mil-spec, probably will, but to be absolutely correct a 1/4 watt should be utilised as per Jan's recommendation. I'm always extremely pedantic when it comes to mains voltages inside an amp and using underrated resistors (military or not) is not good advice to give out.

RN55 specs here_

 

it's rated at 1/4 Watts for the temperatures that you will experience in that amp. Believe me, it's fine. 1/8W vishday/dales are the same size as regular 1/4W resistors for a reason.


----------



## PinkFloyd

With regard to the 1/8 watt resistors I'm not saying they won't be fine in this application I'm just saying that I can't recommend something other than the designer (Jan) recommends. What you guys fit on your PCB's is entirely up to you but I will always tend to recommend the part that has been specced for the application. As you can appreciate this is to cover my back in the event that any of my recommendations caused someone to get electrocuted "oh, but that guy told me it was ok to use XYZ part and my amp went on fire" etc. etc. I think you guys already know the answer to the 1/8 watt resistor question


----------



## Teerawit

I'll wear a face mask before I apply power for the first time


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_I'll wear a face mask before I apply power for the first time 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

And some rubber gloves and thick rubber soled boots! I am wearing the _full_ one piece rubber bodysuit whilst auditioning the amp (earholes punched out of course) you can never be too safe when it comes to headamps 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Maybe Jan would want to chip in with his 5 Euros worth on the resistor values considering potentially lethal voltages are present on the PCB?





 Essential safety gear.


----------



## Ballooshi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_Has anyone found a source for the Alps Blue 10K pot in the U.S.?_

 

Found it at Parts Connexion (Ontario, Canada).... $17.95 each, in stock.
 $5 handling fee on orders < $25 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalo.../sheet002.html

 Click on the Potentiometer tab at the bottom of the page


----------



## PinkFloyd

£8.50 in the UK but you've got £3.99 postage on top which equates to $21.77 so your $23.00 isn't "that" expensive considering. I'm sure there's someone here who can get them for 2 dollars (there always is) but $23 isn't too bad.

 BTW, doesn't have to be an RK27 you know


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_BTW, doesn't have to be an RK27 you know 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Yeah...it can be a DACT CT2


----------



## a1rocketpilot

I'm actually considering using the TKD carbon pot for mine, but the problem is since it has solder lugs, it won't fit onto the circuit board, which could be an issue since I will be mounting the headphone socket and the crossfeed switch right on the board. I suppose I could mount it right next to the board and just wire it to the appropriate points.

 As an aside, is the pinout on the TKD pot the same as with the RK27?


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *a1rocketpilot* 
_I'm actually considering using the TKD carbon pot for mine, but the problem is since it has solder lugs, it won't fit onto the circuit board, which could be an issue since I will be mounting the headphone socket and the crossfeed switch right on the board. I suppose I could mount it right next to the board and just wire it to the appropriate points.

 As an aside, is the pinout on the TKD pot the same as with the RK27?_

 


 You can probably snip the solder lugs to a suitable size to get them to fit? If not, solder on some offcuts as "legs" and it'll fit nicely


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *a1rocketpilot* 
_As an aside, is the pinout on the TKD pot the same as with the RK27?_

 

Use a meter to check.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_Found it at Parts Connexion (Ontario, Canada).... $17.95 each, in stock.
 $5 handling fee on orders < $25 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalo.../sheet002.html

 Click on the Potentiometer tab at the bottom of the page_

 

That's where I ordered mine over a week ago now... God I hate shipping from Canada.... I ordered about $200 worth of stuff from there so the $18 pot wasn't much. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* 
_Use a meter to check._

 

You're funny


----------



## dhp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_You're funny 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DieInAFire* 
_



_

 

Well, instead of Teerawit going into a long winded "here is the answer for you on a plate" type post he simply replied "use a meter to check" never mind.......


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Well, instead of Teerawit going into a long winded "here is the answer for you on a plate" type post he simply replied "use a meter to check" never mind......._

 

ok ok ok....here we go: 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Pic from tangent's website:






 Use a meter to measure continuity between the lugs on the TKD pot. If there's continuity between the pins labelled in tangent's pic as "input 1" and "wiper 1", continuity between "input 2" and "wiper 2", and continuity between the ground pins, then the pinout is the same.

 Turn up the pot all the way and measure the resistance between "input 1" and "wiper 1" -- it should be 10 kiloohms. Ditto for "input 2" and "wiper 2".


----------



## a1rocketpilot

Don't worry, I know how to check the pinout for myself when the pot actually gets here. I was just wondering if anyone had used this pot before and had a quick and easy "yes" or "no" answer to it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .


----------



## dhp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Well, instead of Teerawit going into a long winded "here is the answer for you on a plate" type post he simply replied "use a meter to check" never mind......._

 

yeah, i just got it


----------



## PinkFloyd

How are you guys getting on with your builds?


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_How are you guys getting on with your builds?_

 

Everything is in except the caps.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Everything is in except the caps._

 

Still not there?? That's way over a week isn't it?


----------



## Teerawit

I'm waiting for my new soldering station to arrive before I continue...oh and those 220 nF film caps are very elusive here.


----------



## a1rocketpilot

I'm just sourcing all the parts and getting everything ready for when I return home from college in early May. This amp will be the first on the agenda for the summer. Hopefully this amp should be up and running by the end of May.


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Still not there?? That's way over a week isn't it?_

 

Well so far the order from Canada hasn't come in either and it was shipped the same time you shipped your package so it might just be slow mail. I am sure everything will come in soon as it always does.

 -Alex-


----------



## [AK]Zip

Looks like all my parts came in so I will be finishing her up tonight and will have my BOM up tonight also if all goes well...

 -Alex-


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Looks like all my parts came in so I will be finishing her up tonight and will have my BOM up tonight also if all goes well...

 -Alex-_

 


 Nice one Alex,

 Hope she fires up first time (she will) and look forward to your initial impressions.

 All the best.

 Mike.


----------



## steinchen

my build will be delayed since I cannot source the buf634-220 before June :/ 
 Jameco asked for $32 shipping charge on a $20 order, so I cancelled it 

 btw, did anybody of you consider replacing the 3k3 biasing resistors with JFETs / LM334 / CRDs ? Should be a significant upgrade. Unfortunately I'm not able to try this tweak by myself before June/July


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *steinchen* 
_my build will be delayed since I cannot source the buf634-220 before June :/ 
 Jameco asked for $32 shipping charge on a $20 order, so I cancelled it_

 

Robbing bustards!

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *steinchen* 
_btw, did anybody of you consider replacing the 3k3 biasing resistors with JFETs / LM334 / CRDs ? Should be a significant upgrade. Unfortunately I'm not able to try this tweak by myself before June/July 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Not yet, way too busy but will try CRDs when I get a moment.


----------



## [AK]Zip

The amp is now done and running. She isn't cased up yet, but I will get around to that eventually. Either way here are pics and the BOM list.
















Excel BOM List

 AND for those of you who don't have Excel.
http://apuresound.com/head-fi/ha1/ha1b.jpg

 Please feel free to PM me if you have any question or concerns, but this amp works great! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-


----------



## duchamp

Looks awesome Alex! 
 Thanks for posting your BOM, it's helped to clarify a few issues for me. I am planning on using most of those same parts. Actually ordered those same silver mica caps from partsconnexion.


----------



## a1rocketpilot

The RCA socket you mention in your BOM, will that fit right into the holes on the PCB without any extra wiring?

 Aditya


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *a1rocketpilot* 
_The RCA socket you mention in your BOM, will that fit right into the holes on the PCB without any extra wiring?

 Aditya_

 

Yep. I ended up not using it because my case is a bit too long and I don't want to cut it down. I did buy a pair though and look at them and they fit.

 -Alex-


----------



## [AK]Zip

If someone who hasn't started on their board yet could scan in the bottom side of the board and send it to me I would greatly appreciate it.

 -Alex-


----------



## Ballooshi

Very nice Alex. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I just received my Mouser shipment yesterday. Still waiting to receive Digi-Key and Parts Connexion shipments, then I'll start mine.

 I'll be interested in how you go about cutting the Hammond face plate to fit the Neutrik jack --- I have the same situation.


----------



## Ballooshi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_If someone who hasn't started on their board yet could scan in the bottom side of the board and send it to me I would greatly appreciate it._

 

I think Jan Meier scanned both sides of the board in his original post (which of course I can't seem to locate the link).
 If those are not hi-res enough, I'd be glad to do it before I start hacking on mine.


----------



## [AK]Zip

The thread is here: http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1959998

 I don't see any pictures in there. If you could please scan in just the bottom side with the traces I would really appreciate it. Also I will post pics once I get the case work all done and explain how I did it.

 -Alex-


----------



## Ballooshi

Attached are scans of the HA-1 PCB, front and back.

 PM me with your e-mail address if you need higher-res scans.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_The thread is here: http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1959998

 I don't see any pictures in there. If you could please scan in just the bottom side with the traces I would really appreciate it. Also I will post pics once I get the case work all done and explain how I did it.

 -Alex-_

 

What do you think of the crossfeed Alex, very subtle isn't it? I'm off to solder in an RK27 into mine now as I feel the amp justifies it.

 Mike.


----------



## dhp

maybe we should've done some sort of Group buy for the RK27s


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DieInAFire* 
_maybe we should've done some sort of Group buy for the RK27s_

 

If you're going to buy one from partsconnexion, please don't hesitate to let me know


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *DieInAFire* 
_maybe we should've done some sort of Group buy for the RK27s_

 

I've just bought 30 of them


----------



## PinkFloyd

RK27 fitted. Not having much luck with knobs but the one that's on it will be staying put, doesn't look too good but doesn't look too bad either 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Right, what's next to build?


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_What do you think of the crossfeed Alex, very subtle isn't it? I'm off to solder in an RK27 into mine now as I feel the amp justifies it.

 Mike._

 

The crossfeed barely makes any difference. I hope the Cross-1 is different...

 -Alex-


----------



## NeilR

I haven't heard the Meir feed yet, but I have used Headroom's for years. A lot of modern recordings are "pre-mixed" and there is little difference. Older recordings from the '70s and prior will often have no or almost no mixing of some instruments, which results in a very strange placement and sometimes sort of a "buzzing" affect. What I'm saying is.... don't write off the crossfeed until you have tried some older and widely separated recordings. Sometimes the affect is dramatic and sometimes it is almost inaudible.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_The crossfeed barely makes any difference. I hope the Cross-1 is different...

 -Alex-_

 

Almost identical Alex. The crossfeed "does" make an enormous difference but "only" when it has to..... for example, get hold of the Beatles "Magical Mystery Tour" album and play track 3 "flying"....... switch the X-Feed in and out and you'll notice a HUGE shift in positioning.

 With normal recordings you'll be hard pushed to notice any difference (well, you will but it's subtle) and this is the beauty of the beast it only really becomes noticeable when it has to and doesn't mess up normal recordings.

 Mike.

 EDIT: snap to what NeilR said..... we both posted at the same time.


----------



## NeilR

It has always been my belief that since the late '80s, recording engineers have become more and more sensitive to the needs of headphone users. Prior to that (and the introduction of the Portable CD Player), very few people used headphones. Now, possibly half the man hours of music listening may be through headphones and portable units).

 I listen to a lot of older '70s music. A crossfeed is more useful to me, for example, than someone that listens to mostly modern music. As my music collection slowly "modernizes" (they aren't making any more '70s era music), the crossfeed has become less important to me. When I got my first Headroom unit in 1994, it was a critical piece of the audio puzzle. It is less so now....

 Interestingly, speakers should probably be placed a little further apart (at a greater angle) for modern music since there tends to be less separation.


----------



## EdipisReks

i had an HA-1 MkII, and how you are describing the crossfeed is exactly how i heard it.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_















Excel BOM List
_

 

Nice build Alex, very tidy indeed


----------



## Alf

Finally I have had some time to spend on this amp. My BOM is nearly complete. I have a few concerns I would appreciate your help with.

 * R35 (LED resistor). The schematic suggests 3K9. This gives 7.2mA on the LED. Isn’t it going to be a bit too bright? It looks like 10K may be better in this position. What do you use?

 * 0R Resistors. I noticed people used resistors instead of plain old jumpers. Is there any benefit of doing so?

 * IC9 (bridge rectifier). Would Multicomp DI152 (Farnell #3306872) be OK here? 

 * 10K Alps RK27 pot is quite expensive here in the UK (£13.59 + VAT @ RS). Meanwhile Rapid offers the 50K version much cheaper. What would happen if I use 50K instead? How should I modify the amp to accept the 50K pot?

 * R36. I am planning to use a 6W wirewound resistor (Rapid #62-8318). The resistor is 24 x 8mm. Would it fit the board OK?

 * Wire around the power inlet. What min gauge should I use?


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Alf* 
_Finally I have had some time to spend on this amp. My BOM is nearly complete. I have a few concerns I would appreciate your help with._

 

sure.

  Quote:


 * R35 (LED resistor). The schematic suggests 3K9. This gives 7.2mA on the LED. Isn’t it going to be a bit too bright? It looks like 10K may be better in this position. What do you use? 
 

I used 5K1 and the glow is just right.

  Quote:


 * 0R Resistors. I noticed people used resistors instead of plain old jumpers. Is there any benefit of doing so? 
 

Cosmetics only. A plain jumper is just as good if not better.

  Quote:


 * IC9 (bridge rectifier). Would Multicomp DI152 (Farnell #3306872) be OK here? 
 

Yes.

  Quote:


 * 10K Alps RK27 pot is quite expensive here in the UK (£13.59 + VAT @ RS). Meanwhile Rapid offers the 50K version much cheaper. What would happen if I use 50K instead? How should I modify the amp to accept the 50K pot? 
 

No need to modify, I used 50K ALPS pot, just plug it in and it'll be fine.

  Quote:


 * R36. I am planning to use a 6W wirewound resistor (Rapid #62-8318). The resistor is 24 x 8mm. Would it fit the board OK? 
 

Yes.

  Quote:


 * Wire around the power inlet. What min gauge should I use? 
 

Get some 13amp flex (0.7mm) and use that. You know the cable that comes with most electronic equipment?


----------



## Alf

Thanks Mike! I ordered parts for my amp today. Hopefully I will be posting some results or more questions in a few days.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Alf* 
_Thanks Mike! I ordered parts for my amp today. Hopefully I will be posting some results or more questions in a few days._

 

Cool man.


----------



## [AK]Zip

I finally finished casing up my HA-1 Amp and it's now completely done.












 -Alex-


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## Ballooshi

Hey Alex,

 Really looks nice. I am going to start mine soon, all the parts are finally in. Of course, then I decided I needed to replace my Rat Shack iron with a soldering station... then I thought a Panavise would be a nice thing to have... I wonder what's next... probably a magnifier lamp.

 Care to share any tips for drilling the front face plate for the Neutrik and the Alps? What tools did you use, and how did you line everything up?


----------



## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_Hey Alex,

 Really looks nice. I am going to start mine soon, all the parts are finally in. Of course, then I decided I needed to replace my Rat Shack iron with a soldering station... then I thought a Panavise would be a nice thing to have... I wonder what's next... probably a magnifier lamp.

 Care to share any tips for drilling the front face plate for the Neutrik and the Alps? What tools did you use, and how did you line everything up?_

 

Well I have a drill press and a Mill Machine so thats how it all comes out the way it does. If you don't have at least a drill press then its going to be a lot harder to drill holes in metal. The case you ordered did you order the metal or plastic panels? I would highly suggest plastic if you aren't going to use at least a drill press. As far as lining it all up I just measured everything out on the face plate and started drilling holes.

 If you have more questions ask away! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-


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## duchamp

I'm still getting parts together, so I'm sure I'll have some questions soon. Looks great Alex! I think I may use that same case. I would like to keep the all black look of the original.


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## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_I finally finished casing up my HA-1 Amp and it's now completely done.











 -Alex-_

 

Nice one Alex! Looks very professional, is that a Hammond enclosure with the ABS end plates?


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## PinkFloyd

NEVER, I say "never" again let me loose with a packet of letraset rub on transfers! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Let's just call the finish erm,.......... "rustic"

 Wouldn't look so bad if I'd put the bloody letters on half straight


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## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Nice one Alex! Looks very professional, is that a Hammond enclosure with the ABS end plates?_

 

Its the one with aluminum face plates. I am not much on plastic.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I love how that case came out... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-


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## Ballooshi

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Its the one with aluminum face plates. I am not much on plastic.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I love how that case came out... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-_

 

Alex,

 Can you post some more pics of your finished case, from a few more angles? Would like to get a better look at the front and back face plates.

 Something tells me you took some shop class along the way, if you have your own mill machine! CNC?


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## a1rocketpilot

All right, well, I have returned home from college which means I can finally get started on this. A few questions before I buy all my parts though. R36 is a 5W and R33/34 are 1W, right? Does anyone have any particular part recommendations for this one? Secondly, for the small pF caps, would silver mica's be preferable over polystyrenes or vice versa? As far as the large electrolytics go, Nichicon FG would be acceptable right? For the PSU bypass caps (.22uf), would I be better off with using film or Black Gate NX HiQ? I think that's it for now, but I may be back with more later on!

 Aditya


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## [AK]Zip

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_Alex,

 Can you post some more pics of your finished case, from a few more angles? Would like to get a better look at the front and back face plates.

 Something tells me you took some shop class along the way, if you have your own mill machine! CNC? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Not CNC... this one is by hand. I am working on a project though to turn it into a CNC machine.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I will take some pics in a little bit and post them here.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *a1rocketpilot* 
_All right, well, I have returned home from college which means I can finally get started on this. A few questions before I buy all my parts though. R36 is a 5W and R33/34 are 1W, right? Does anyone have any particular part recommendations for this one? Secondly, for the small pF caps, would silver mica's be preferable over polystyrenes or vice versa? As far as the large electrolytics go, Nichicon FG would be acceptable right? For the PSU bypass caps (.22uf), would I be better off with using film or Black Gate NX HiQ? I think that's it for now, but I may be back with more later on!

 Aditya_

 

I posted a BOM list a few pages back. Have a look! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-


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## a1rocketpilot

Alex, those Vishay industrial resistors in your BOM, how would you compare them to the RNxx series? Also, what other good quality 1/4W resistors would you all recommend?


----------



## a1rocketpilot

Casing question. I am planning on using a wood case for this amp (the Hammond cases are just too ubiquitous for me). However, Jan states that the Mains ground needs to be connected to the chassis as well, which really isn't possible with a wood case. Is there any way to go around this problem or should I just swallow my pride and use a Hammond enclosure?

 Also, are there any other components that need to be grounded to the chassis? RCA's? The RK27?


----------



## raduray

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_If you have more questions ask away! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 -Alex-_

 

It looks beautiful! How does it sound? 
 Radu


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## Ballooshi

Well, finished soldering up everything the past couple evenings, and fired her up for the first time last night. By the way, the BUF634T were a female dog to solder, like Pinky said earlier. Lifted half a pad, even though I ordered non-RoHS version from Jameco. Maybe they sent me RoHS instead.

 It sounds very clean, detailed and fast. I thought that I would get a bit more bass and ooompth from the HA-1 as compared to my CMOY. Had it turned up to 11 and was not overly loud. Could be because my phones are 600 ohm DT-990's, not very efficient. I've only listened to one CD so far --- gotta' listen some more and give it time to burn in maybe. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Anyway, now to case it up, and then on the the Cross-1.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *[AK]Zip* 
_Not CNC... this one is by hand. I am working on a project though to turn it into a CNC machine.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I will take some pics in a little bit and post them here.

 -Alex-_

 

Alex? Can you post some more pics of the front and back of your case, from different angles? Puleease?
 Also, where did you ground to the chassis?


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## Alf

I finished my amp yesterday. It is still breaking in but initial impressions are positive.














 Kudos to Dr Meier for designing this headamp and offering free PCBs. It was a great project and I certainly enjoyed working on it. 

 Thanks Mike for starting this thread. Your pictures and comments on parts selection have been very helpful.


----------



## Nisbeth

Nice work, Alf! Got any pics of the insides? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 /U.


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## Filburt

I so wish I'd gotten a board


----------



## mb3k

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Filburt* 
_I so wish I'd gotten a board 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Sigh, same here. I only knew about the Cross-1.
 Anyone have extra boards for sale?


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## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_Well, finished soldering up everything the past couple evenings, and fired her up for the first time last night. By the way, the BUF634T were a female dog to solder, like Pinky said earlier. Lifted half a pad, even though I ordered non-RoHS version from Jameco. Maybe they sent me RoHS instead._

 

Nice one, good to see it up and running 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Not sure if it's the buf 634 or just the ***** pads but, yes, they were a bit of a dog to solder.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_It sounds very clean, detailed and fast._

 

Typical LM6171 sound.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_I thought that I would get a bit more bass and ooompth from the HA-1 as compared to my CMOY._

 

Pretty bass light, even when burnt in if truth be told.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_ Had it turned up to 11 and was not overly loud._

 

The way it is. Has been designed like that: _"The maximum amplification factor of the amplifier is 3.5 (11 dB). This is rather low compared to other amplifiers, but it has the advantage that the input potentiometer has to be turned up quite far. It thus works in a region of optimal tracking. Moreover, the input signal for the first amplification stage is higher and therefore signal to noise ratio also improves."_

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Ballooshi* 
_ where did you ground to the chassis?_

 

Best place is to ground to one of the mains inlet nut and bolts on the aluminium end panel (see diagram) 






 If your end plate is plastic then you can either line it with aluminium foil (this also helps protect against RFI) and ground as above or you can drill a small hole in the chassis and bolt a ground wire to it.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Nisbeth* 
_Nice work, Alf! Got any pics of the insides? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





 /U._

 

Yes, very tidy work Alf 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Yet another anorak here who would like to see under the hood 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Alf* 
_Thanks Mike for starting this thread. Your pictures and comments on parts selection have been very helpful._

 

It was a pleasure.


----------



## Filburt

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *mb3k* 
_Sigh, same here. I only knew about the Cross-1.
 Anyone have extra boards for sale?_

 

I'd be willing to purchase a board


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## Ballooshi

Alf, your finished product is a beauty!! Hope mine turns out half as nice. Enjoy!


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## Ballooshi

A few pics of the innards of my HA-1...


----------



## Alf

More pictures


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## PinkFloyd

Nice innards guys! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Alf, with yours I would be inclined to line both plastic end panels of the Hammond enclosure with some sticky back aluminium or copper foil. You get rolls of the stuff from most good ironmongers pretty cheaply and you simply stick it onto the inside of the end panels. Once it's in place you can run a ground wire from the IEC inlet (earth) to one of the bolts that secure it to the end panel. As soon as you fit the 4 screws into the enclosure (the ones which secure the end plate to the chassis) that will effectively shield the entire enclosure and it will be grounded as the wire you have fitted to the aluminium tape by means of a nut and bolt on the IEC inlet will ensure continuity through the entire chassis. Not only is this good grounding it is also great for protecting against any RFI which may be trying to get in. The tape cured many problems with the WNA amps and it's really strong, easy to apply, does the job and is CHEAP!

 Anyways, nice builds, looks great!


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## duchamp

Wow Alf, those are some seriously detailed photos! Beautiful shots.


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## Alf

Thanks guys!


  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Alf, with yours I would be inclined to line both plastic end panels of the Hammond enclosure with some sticky back aluminium or copper foil. You get rolls of the stuff from most good ironmongers pretty cheaply and you simply stick it onto the inside of the end panels. Once it's in place you can run a ground wire from the IEC inlet (earth) to one of the bolts that secure it to the end panel. As soon as you fit the 4 screws into the enclosure (the ones which secure the end plate to the chassis) that will effectively shield the entire enclosure and it will be grounded as the wire you have fitted to the aluminium tape by means of a nut and bolt on the IEC inlet will ensure continuity through the entire chassis._

 

It is a good suggestion. I will try it tomorrow.

  Quote:


  Originally Posted by *PinkFloyd* 
_Not only is this good grounding it is also great for protecting against any RFI which may be trying to get in. The tape cured many problems with the WNA amps and it's really strong, easy to apply, does the job and is CHEAP!_

 

How do RFI induced problems manifest themselves?


----------



## steinchen

finished my HA-1 a couple of days ago, the sound is very clean, tight, fast, detailed, revealing. 

 Kudos to Dr Meier for designing this amp and giving away the PCBs!!! Thank you!

 I replaced the four 3k3 class-A bias resistors with LM334 constant current sources (set to 4.5mA with R_SET=15R). The change is far from dramatic, rather subtle, but audible. imho it helps to get the sound a little warmer, particulary in the lower departments. A 4 EUR (~$5) mod worth trying.


----------



## PinkFloyd

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Alf* 
_How do RFI induced problems manifest themselves?_

 

Can make LM6171 oscillate.... funny whooshing sound, high pitched squeal, humming etc. You'll be ok _without_ shielding the end panels was just saying you'd may as well as it's cheap and easy to do and if you ever take the amp somewhere that has high RFI (such as the empire state building) then it'll be protected against it. Ferrite beads on all cables entering the amp are good too _if_ you experience RFI.

 Mike.


----------



## duchamp

Anyone use the Vishay/Dale RN55 without incidence or problems? I'm leaning towards using them and was curious to hear from those who used them in the HA-1 MKII now that some time has passed since the initial builds. Thanks!


----------



## Teerawit

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *duchamp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Anyone use the Vishay/Dale RN55 without incidence or problems? I'm leaning towards using them and was curious to hear from those who used them in the HA-1 MKII now that some time has passed since the initial builds. Thanks!_

 

duchamp, have you built your HA-1 yet with the RN55? After a long hiatus, I finally ordered and received the remaining parts for my HA-1. I have it populated with (mostly) RN55 so I can let you know soon. It shouldn't be a problem, though, given the low-power usage of the circuit.


----------



## empire23

Damn, too late to get any PCB......anyone have an extra?


----------



## duchamp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_duchamp, have you built your HA-1 yet with the RN55? After a long hiatus, I finally ordered and received the remaining parts for my HA-1. I have it populated with (mostly) RN55 so I can let you know soon. It shouldn't be a problem, though, given the low-power usage of the circuit._

 

Same deal here. Just put my order in yesterday with Mouser and Digikey. I went ahead with the RN55's. I think they will probably be fine from what I've read and the size on the original amp. Yours will probably be up before mine due to my schedule at this point. It would be great to hear how things go when you are finished.


----------



## duchamp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *empire23* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Damn, too late to get any PCB......anyone have an extra?_

 

 I think the limit was one so those who have built one here have used their solitary board- and Jan's supply was very limited. You could post a WTB on the For Sale forum though and see if anyone has one laying around. I'm just getting around to building mine. Good luck!


----------



## Yen

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *duchamp* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_I think the limit was one so those who have built one here have used their solitary board- and Jan's supply was very limited. You could post a WTB on the For Sale forum though and see if anyone has one laying around. I'm just getting around to building mine. Good luck!_

 

I think Cross1 with a perfboard is just as simple as doing on a ready PCB. Jan's site has excelent picture with all wirings done.


----------



## a1rocketpilot

Good luck trying to find a PCB, if I recall, he only had 14, and most of those are built already. I'm going to finish my SOHA first, but after that, the HA-1 MKII is next. Damn lack of funds at college...

 Aditya


----------



## Teerawit

RN55D works well


----------



## duchamp

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *Teerawit* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_RN55D works well 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


_

 

Great to hear! Just waiting on my parts. How's it sound?


----------



## Captain-Riz

Put I and I down for a PCB AYE! Me want one, roots mon!


----------



## TheRobbStory

Received my PCB from 69CamaroSS396 in the mail today. The BOM link at the top of this thread is 404'd. Does anyone have a copy they could email me?


----------



## tess

Can anyone help me out.

 My HA-1 build came to a stop because I cant seem to locate any correct sized 15m resistors, I would really like to finish this build.

 If anyone can help me with 4 suitable 15M resistors I would really appreciate it.

 Cheers.
 Alan.


----------



## Pars

Alan,

 Digikey has some Vishay/PPC listed : PPCHJ15MCT-ND
 Whether these are suitable or not I don't know as I haven't seen the BOM or looked at building one of these.

 I just placed an order the other day (for other stuff...). If I place another order, I'll get some for you, but I don't know when that will be...

 Chris


----------



## Joshi

Hi
 I'm looking for Corda schematic for pcb layout published by PinkFloyd on page nr 3.

 Thank in advance


----------



## tess

Joshi.

 This link will help you.

http://www.meier-audio.homepage.t-online.de/index.htm

 Look under projects - headamp.


----------



## tess

Can anyone who built the amp confirm that a 50k RK27 will work OK with this amp.

 I'm sure PinkFloyd did mention it would, just want to make sure.


----------



## cosmopragma

Quote:


  Originally Posted by *tess* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 
_Can anyone who built the amp confirm that a 50k RK27 will work OK with this amp.

 I'm sure PinkFloyd did mention it would, just want to make sure._

 

Although he's banned here you could always ask Mike himself at his own forum.


----------

