# Aune T1 USB Tube DAC+ SS Amp Discussion Thread ***See first post for FAQ--Updated on 02/14/15***



## joeq70

Hey folks! I'm surprised this wallet-friendly device hasn't really been mentioned much here on head-fi. I recently stumbled upon a thread over at rockgrotto that basically raves about it, so I decided to order one from Aune on ebay. It just came in today. I'm listening to a FLAC rip of the new Pinback album as I type this, and I'm seriously shocked at how good this thing sounds. It sounds good, really good, like light-years-better-than-anything-else-I-have-ever-heard-no-contest good.I haven't done many reviews, and I literally just started listening to this device, so let me present you some brief points worth mentioning.
  

I recently had the Audioquest Dragonfly in my possession and the Aune T1 absolutely obliterates it.
Other sources I have experience with include the Sansa Clip+, IPhone 4, Sony S639f, S: Flo 2, Ibasso D1, and HRT Headstreamer.
The amps I've had have all been solid state. Solid state amps that I've tried include Ibasso D1, Channel Islands Audio VHP-2, AMB Mini3, Digizoid ZO v1 (not really an amp but acts as one), and Audioquest Dragonfly
What my experience means is that either 1) I'm blown away because I was born to listen to tubes and didn't know it until now, 2) The Aune T1 is ridiculously good for the price, or 3) a mixture of both 1 and 2.
The headphones that I use are a Symphones Magnum v4 build that I put together myself.
The tube I usually use in the Aune T1 is a Genalex Gold Lion, but I sometime use a Voskhod 6N23P "rocket logo" tube. 
*See more in depth tube impressions below.*
  
 That is pretty much all I have for now. I don't want to be one those annoying people that just raves about their gear simply because its new--I feel truly compelled to inform everyone here that the Aune T1 is in my opinion the REAL DEAL at only $200 shipped.
  
 For those who don't like to read, here is my review in picture form:
  
  

  
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*-UPDATED 2/14/15-* *********Here I will address some questions that seem to pop up frequently in this thread**************  
Q: What types of tubes will work with the Aune T1?
*A: 6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 6N27P, 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, **E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, CV5358, M3624*
  
  
Q: Where can I purchase the Aune T1?
A: I purchased mine from the official Aune vendor on ebay (auneaudio) but there are numerous vendors to choose from. I have not heard any negative reports yet from any particular vendor but YMMV.
  
Q: Does the Aune T1 come with a tube? 
A: Yes, the Aune T1 does come with a a tube. The particular tube varies by listing. Don't stress over what it comes with because in all likelihood you'll want to upgrade it, regardless.
  
Q:What is the "upgrade version" of the T1 that some ebay vendors seem to be selling?
A: The "upgrade version" on the T1 is identical to the regular version, but it comes with a better tube. My advice is to get the regular version, then invest your money in some good NOS (new old stock) tubes.
  
 [size=15.555556297302246px]Q: What tube should I buy for the Aune T1?[/size]
 [size=15.555556297302246px]A: Search this thread for impressions or PM me if you need help. I'll do the best I can to get back to you quickly.
  [/size]
 [size=15.555556297302246px]Q: Is the Aune T1 a tube amp?[/size]
 [size=15.555556297302246px]A: NO, it is NOT a tube amp. The T1 is special because it is a great sounding *DAC* that is highly customizable/upgradeable by selecting the right tube. *The amp in the T1 is a cheap solid state amp. It gets the job done but an upgrade to another external amp is recommended at some point.*[/size]
  
Q: Does the Aune T1 DAC utilize the tube, does the T1 headphone amp section use the tube, or do they both use the tube?
A: See the question above. In more words: the Aune T1 is a *USB tube DAC *with a solid state headphone amp. What this means is that if you want the benefits of the tube, *you must use the USB Input of the T1.  *The amp section of the T1 does not use the tube by itself. Technically, you could bypass the DAC of the T1 and just use the amp but this type of use is not really what the T1 is for. One thing you can do is use the T1 USB input then hook up a different amp to the RCA *out* of the T1. This will give you the benefits of the tube (because it affects the DAC) and allows you to try a different/more powerful amp (though I think the amp in the T1 is quite good).  I personally have a speaker amp hooked up this way so I can use my headphones and some bookshelf speakers at the same time from the T1 as a source.
  
Q:What headphones are adequately driven by the Aune T1 amp?
A: Almost every headphone I have tried with the T1 works very, very well. 
  
Here is a list of headphones that I've used on the T1, and I think sound great:
Sennheiser HD800 
Sennheiser HD650
Sennheiser HD600
Hifiman HE-400 
Beyerdynamic DT880 and DT990 (250 ohm versions) 
AKG K702 Anniversary
AKG K550
Symphones Magnum v4 and v5 (my favorite headphones)
 [size=15.555556297302246px]I imagine that Grado headphones would make an excellent match with the T1 since the Magnums sound so good on it.[/size]
The Beyerdynamic T1 sounds good on the T1, but I personally found that it benefits a little in the bass department with the extra power from my speaker amp (I terminated the Beyers to banana plugs).
 
Headphones that needed more power than the T1 could offer:
Audeze LCD-2
Hifiman HE-6
  
*Remember, you could spend as little as $100 on another amp and potentially see some benefits. The above list is the indicate that the amp that comes with the T1 is at bare minimum useable and in some cases sounds really great.*
  
*Extra Notes:*
  
 If you change the cord or adapter then don`t forget to change it to one that has a FUSE in it!
*IMPORTANT! - UK plug fuse should be changed to something between 0,5A - 3A fuse* because in stock it comes with 13A fuse which is way too much!
http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=talk&thread=8297&page=15#125152
  
 2/14/15--regarding the above about the fuse, I have no idea if this is still an issue with the current product.
  
*****TUBE IMPRESSIONS*****
  
*Genalex Gold Lion E88CC:*
 Given some time with the Genalex and comparing it to my precious Voskhod, I have to say I’m quite impressed and that I think I’ve found a new favorite tube. The Genalex has many of the qualities of the Voskhod I like, such as intimate mids and vocals, but the Genalex is able to deliver this to me with more clarity and soundstage. The extra clarity does make the T1 sound more digital and less analog than the Voskhod, but I still think it is ultimately a superior sound. At first, I thought the Genalex had punchier bass, but after adjusting to the sound, I realized I was mistaken and that the Voskhod was more tactile in this respect.  Then, I thought perhaps a gain adjustment would make a difference, and lo and behold, +8 did just the trick in bringing the Genalex bass up to where I wanted it. Good times!
  
*Russian 6n23p Rocket logo*
This tube is intimacy to the max. Warm, but not muddy. Forward sounding. Output volume seems higher than the other tubes I’ve tried. Very musical and engaging tube. It’s a fun listen for sure but it comes at the cost of some soundstage. Has a very punchy midbass but doesn’t have as much presence in the lowest bass notes. Has a kind of addictive tube sound.
Purchased here: http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6N23P
  
*Russian 6n23p-eb*
Very nice detailed sound, great soundstage and imaging. Less aggressive than the rocket logo. Has very, very good lower bass presence. Kind of a U shaped sound signature compared to the rocket logo. Overall, very good. Whether or not I prefer this or the rocket logo depends on my mood.
Purchased here:  http://www.thecableco.com/Product/Russian-Military-6H23N-EB--Single-
  
*Matsu****a 7dj8*
This tube ended up being a pretty big disappointment. Upscale Audio hyped it up majorly, but I found this tube to sound dark, very dark. Lacks resolution and just sounds a little “off.” I do not recommend it. Sounds like I’m listening to a cheap mp3 player instead of a piece of nice audio equipment.
Purchased here: http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Matsu****a-%7B47%7D-National-PCC88-%7B47%7D-7DJ8.html    <------this link won't work because head-fi edits out the s-word...lol
  
*RCA labeled Amperex 6dj8/E88cc*
This tube is very nice. It’s kind of a middle ground between the two Russian tubes. It’s kind of laid-back in a way that is unlike those tubes, though. This tube is balanced sounding, maybe a little soft in the low end and a tad polite in the treble. It’s pretty natural sounding. Good soundstage and imaging.  Overall a nice tube that maybe doesn’t have the addictive character that the rocket logo does and doesn’t have that ultra controlled low bass of the 6n23p-eb, but it does a lot right and sounds great overall.
Purchased from head-fi for sale forum.
  
*Amperex 7308 ** Gold Pin*
 Alright guys, I finally got my hands on my Amperex 7308. This tube is the real deal no doubt about it. The first thing that stood out when I popped this tube in was man this thing sounds HOLOGRAPHIC. I've never heard anything have this much soundstage but still retain such smoothness. It's well balanced and dynamic with excellent details in the whole sound spectrum. Despite this, I decided to use the Rocket Logo 6n23p as my primary tube. The Rocket Logo has this addictive aggressive sound that I just can't shake. I believe that out of all of the tube I tried, the vast majority will prefer the Amperex 7308, but for me...Rocket Logo all the way...makes my Magnums rock so, so hard.
 Purchased here:http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html
  
*Philips Miniwatt E188CC, made in Holland*
 Okay, so now that I've had more time with this tube, I'll take some time to discuss it in more detail. First, a pic of the tube in question:
  

  
 This is a Miniwatt Dario E188CC with date code VR6⊿3A2. The code indicates that it was made by Philips/Amperex in Holland at the Heerlen factory. It tests NOS and has closely matched triodes.
  
 When I stated in my earlier post that this is an end-game quality tube, I meant it. Here's why:
  
 1) The balance of the presentation of the various frequencies is outstanding. The tube is spacious and holographic, while having a nice bottom end slam and great treble extension. And the mids are not recessed.
  
 2) The Miniwatt Dario E188CC is slightly warm of neutral, which is a pleasant place to be. The Gold Lion is what I'd consider digital sounding and clean. The Voskhod Rocket Logo is mid-centric with dirty, punchy midbass and vocal intimacy but less soundstage. The Miniwatt Dario E188CC strikes a great balance between the two. It is smooth but spacious and detailed sounding without being too polite. 
  
 3) Excellent holographic soundstage. I'd really like to pair this tube with a better amp to see how much further improvement is possible.
  
 4) Having listened to a decent variety of different tubes, I can say that the Miniwatt Dario E188CC is an excellent tube to have at least one of on hand because it is so well balanced and refined. I cannot say for sure that it will be the perfect pairing for every headphone out there but it certainly deserves strong consideration.
  
 That said, even after the immense praise I've heaped upon it, I still need to do some more A/Bing to determine if it is the end-of-the-road, perfect match for my particular headphones and music taste.
  
  
*ALSO SEE SALVATORE'S HELPFUL LINKS BELOW (VERY INFORMATIVE):*
  
http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294


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## 4 cm

Did you get the Voskhod 6N23P tube with the amp or was that a separate purchase?
   
Also, how does it sound driving IEMs?


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## joeq70

Quote: 





4 cm said:


> Did you get the Voskhod 6N23P tube with the amp or was that a separate purchase?
> 
> Also, how does it sound driving IEMs?


 
   
  I purchased the tube separately from http://www.boiaudioworks.com/ If you buy the T1 on ebay, you can order it without a tube or with a tube for some extra money (extra $15). The listings are all different, but I went with Aune because I felt better about going with the company that makes it rather than a reseller. However, I imagine the resellers are fine, too. Unfortunately, I find all IEMs to be extremely uncomfortable...my ears just can't take them, so I don't have any IEMs to try with it.


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## Massacare

Subscribed. I'm pretty much interested in this DAC/Amp since the price is pretty much not too expensive (extremely wallet saving actually ).


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## joeq70

Not a lot of interest it seems...that's ok, though. I just want stop by and say that after a week of listening to the Aune T1, I wholly reaffirm my positive impressions about the device.


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## icecap

Congrats on unearthing a gem and loving it without spending loads!!

It was in my consideration when I was shopping for a tube amp.. But I opted for another DIY built tube amp only as I didn't need the DAC function, and also it was cheaper..

I never listen to T1 before but I guess it will be good! I have always been particularly impress of audio products made by the Chinese at a fraction of the cost.. And in the example of aune, they definitely do look gorgeous as well!!


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## northerntiger

Good thread. This DAC is a real gem. I read only good things about it.
  I've no experience with Magnum cans. Can I still consider them Grados (at least in sound sig. department)?
  My cans at the moment are HD598, Alessandro MS1 and some cheap AKGs.
  Can you give more impressions about how this DAC works with your Magnums or maybe some other HPs?


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## joeq70

Quote: 





northerntiger said:


> Good thread. This DAC is a real gem. I read only good things about it.
> I've no experience with Magnum cans. Can I still consider them Grados (at least in sound sig. department)?
> My cans at the moment are HD598, Alessandro MS1 and some cheap AKGs.
> Can you give more impressions about how this DAC works with your Magnums or maybe some other HPs?


 
  I think you could place Magnum and Grado in the same ballpark, but they aren't all that similar. Compared to the SR line and RS line, for instance, the Magnums have a *much* better soundstage and bass and a warmer signature. However, the Grado influence comes through in the way mids are presented and the overall "vibe" of the sound. Still, Magnums have their own distinct thing going on.
   
  I sold off all of my other headphones to put together my magnums, so I don't have any other cans to test out on the Aune T1. I'm going to try out the MS Ultimate mod on my Magnums when the jumbo pads come in just for curiosity's sake.
   
  That being said, my original impressions stand...love this DAC/AMP.


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## cocolinho

suscribed!


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## penmarker

I've just gotten this DAC+Amp two days ago, and unlike the rest of the internets I've gotten a defective unit. I actually bought it from another forummer in a local forum.
   
  The DAC unit has a channel imbalance and the left channel louder than the right channel. Switching modes between DAC+Amp, Amp alone, and DAC alone, I found out that the DAC part of it is the defective one.
   
  A simple re-balancing from the sound control center fixed it up.
   

   
  I am still discussing with the previous owner about it, and he is hinting that he had only used the amp part fed through an external CD player, that kinda explains how he does not notice the DAC part has a channel imbalance.
   
*For the fun part, the sound*
   
  Oh my god I am melting in my chair listening to it. It is so good. I have never used a proper amp before, and I've been only using a FiiO E11 for the past few months when I started. This tubeamp blew them right out of the water. The highs are so sparkly and has some sort of organic feel to it. The vocals are massively emotional, I can feel her every breath and every time her lips move. I am pairing it with a Goldring DR150 with a Vero 150 cable. Everything just 'fits'. The relationship is between the components is like a love story. Everything is a lot more beautiful.
   
  If you have the money, go out, and buy it (unless you shop online), and plug it in. Melt in your chair, you deserve to have Norah Jones sing for you after a hard day at work/school.
   
  But don't feed it with low quality songs though. They're pretty forgivable, but don't push it too much.


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## northerntiger

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> I think you could place Magnum and Grado in the same ballpark, but they aren't all that similar. Compared to the SR line and RS line, for instance, the Magnums have a *much* better soundstage and bass and a warmer signature. However, the Grado influence comes through in the way mids are presented and the overall "vibe" of the sound. Still, Magnums have their own distinct thing going on.
> 
> I sold off all of my other headphones to put together my magnums, so I don't have any other cans to test out on the Aune T1. I'm going to try out the MS Ultimate mod on my Magnums when the jumbo pads come in just for curiosity's sake.
> 
> That being said, my original impressions stand...love this DAC/AMP.


 
   
  Thanks for the clarification. I hope it'll shine with my cheap MS1 too.
  Have you noticed any channel imbalance btw.?
    
  Quote:


penmarker said:


> I've just gotten this DAC+Amp two days ago, and unlike the rest of the internets I've gotten a defective unit. I actually bought it from another forummer in a local forum.
> 
> The DAC unit has a channel imbalance and the left channel louder than the right channel. Switching modes between DAC+Amp, Amp alone, and DAC alone, I found out that the DAC part of it is the defective one.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Wow, nice info and great solution to the problem.
  I see you have JVC HA-S500 as an avatar. Have you tried them with the DAC?


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## joeq70

Quote: 





northerntiger said:


> Thanks for the clarification. I hope it'll shine with my cheap MS1 too.
> Have you noticed any channel imbalance btw.?
> 
> Wow, nice info and great solution to the problem.
> I see you have JVC HA-S500 as an avatar. Have you tried them with the DAC?


 
  I have not noticed any channel imbalance at all. I am using this as both as a DAC and Amp via USB. Sounds amazing!


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## joeq70

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> *For the fun part, the sound*
> 
> Oh my god I am melting in my chair listening to it. It is so good. I have never used a proper amp before, and I've been only using a FiiO E11 for the past few months when I started. This tubeamp blew them right out of the water. The highs are so sparkly and has some sort of organic feel to it. The vocals are massively emotional, I can feel her every breath and every time her lips move. I am pairing it with a Goldring DR150 with a Vero 150 cable. Everything just 'fits'. The relationship is between the components is like a love story. Everything is a lot more beautiful.
> 
> ...


 
  What tube are you using with your unit?


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## penmarker

Quote: 





northerntiger said:


> Wow, nice info and great solution to the problem.
> I see you have JVC HA-S500 as an avatar. Have you tried them with the DAC?


 
  Yes I do own one, they don't really pair well I must say. The highs weren't as sparkly, there is absolutely zero sibilance unless the track has a lot of sibilance, and the speed is slower. I used to love how the S500 has no sibilance, but after my DR150 showed me what proper sibilant can do I absolutely love them. The tubeamp improved a lot of the bass quality, for the S500 it means more and more bass. It's not really overwhelming it's just that I like my bass a little tamer.
   
  I doubt other people has channel imbalance, I've looked everywhere and scoured all over the internets, but I cannot find anyone with the same problem as mine. Pictures of the internals show how the unit is made up of good quality materials, components and good soldering.
   
  Now my S500 is more of a portable headphone than a desktop listening headphone. They're apples and oranges as the S500 is also good.
  Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> What tube are you using with your unit?


 
  It is a Russian tube, Electro-Harmonix 6922EH. I have never used any other tubes before in case you want to ask how they compare with other tubes.
   
  **edit: So I've talked with the previous owner and he said the unit was fine when he was using it, and was fed through USB as well. We're setting up a meeting so he can test out the unit with his own equipment. I believe he is using an M50 IINM.
   
  ***edit: Added the name of the tube Electro-Harmonix.


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## killerweed

This thread cost me $198. But can't wait to hear the T1. Another friend bought one and brought it to my attention (he doesn't have his yet), but this review pushed me over the cliff. I also ordered the other tube mention, and look forward to comparing them.


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## Dsnuts

Bought one. Cant wait.


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## penmarker

Quote: 





dsnuts said:


> Bought one. Cant wait.


 
  Don't forget to compare it between the Fire Phoenix and Fire Phoenix + Bravo Audio Ocean.


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## mattDLE

I'm new here, but I have two questions for anyone who owns an Aune T1.

The first is what type of AC adapter/Power Brick came with the amp?

The second question is about size; could someone provide a visual example of the amp in relation to a common item (e.g. a picture of the T1 sitting on top of a CD case, or next to a stack of CDs).

I know I'm new here, and it's a bit rude of me to make such requests, but I'm curious about this device and have had a hard time finding any photos of it other than the "showroom" photos posted by the seller.


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## Enki

Quote: 





mattdle said:


> I'm new here, but I have two questions for anyone who owns an Aune T1.
> The first is what type of AC adapter/Power Brick came with the amp?
> The second question is about size; could someone provide a visual example of the amp in relation to a common item (e.g. a picture of the T1 sitting on top of a CD case, or next to a stack of CDs).
> I know I'm new here, and it's a bit rude of me to make such requests, but I'm curious about this device and have had a hard time finding any photos of it other than the "showroom" photos posted by the seller.


 
  Might want to check out the thread at Rock Grotto for your questions.  I found this picture there for a decent size comparison.


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## penmarker

Sure I'll post better comparison pics for you when I get home. No problem. 

**Edit: here are the pictures.



These pictures compare the size with the Sansa Fuze + FiiO E11.

The AC adapter that comes with the amp is the T1 - 1504, 5 pin power adapter, US power socket socket. Input AC is 230V - 50/60Hz. Output AC 15V - 0V - 15V

I want to snap the picture but its quite dark, but google images is showing different power bricks. Hope this helps.

**Edit 2: Holy crraps. I thought the DAC unit in the Aune T1 is already good since its a 24 bit one n all. I changed DAC and used the UD100 and the quality had greatly improved. 16 bits be damned, these are better.
This is my first impression, I think I'll be doing some serious comparison letter. But for now I can say that they sound more engaging, the bass quality and quantity has vastly improved, the distortion in loud volumes is virtually nonexistent, but the highs I think is a bit more pronounced but not sure whether in a good or bad way.


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## mattDLE

Quote: "*Holy crraps. I thought the DAC unit in the Aune T1 is already good since its a 24 bit one n all. I changed DAC and used the UD100 and the quality had greatly improved. 16 bits be damned, these are better.*"

I would like to hear more about this comparison. 

Thank you for the pictures.

I'm curious to try an Aune amp again (I had one of their mini amps at one time), but I'm not sure if I should give the T1 or the X1 a test.


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## volly

I'm currently running E9/E17 rig, DSnuts have you received your Aune T1 yet?! I'm getting the itch...


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## cocolinho

Quote: 





volly said:


> DSnuts have you received your Aune T1 yet?! I'm getting the itch...


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## Dsnuts

I should be getting it here this week. Will let you guys know if it is worth the price of admission. I also ended up getting that same Voskhod tube mentioned on the OP. It will be interesting to hear how much different these are compared to my Bravo Ocean tube amp which I like a lot. There seems to be some buzz online about these AUNE T1s. Seems to be a great bang for buck DAC/AMP..Will see soon enough.


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## Dsnuts

Dsnuts
 "You guys can call me an AT superfan"




  
 *online*
 
 4,299 Posts. Joined 6/2011
    Oh yes! And the AUNE T1 has landed.
   


  The unit is gorgeous. Now for the sound test.


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## killerweed

Had my sound test starting yesterday. I am glad I bought the tube mentioned earlier as well, since there is no tube in the box (I thought one came with it, but I was wrong). So far, loving it. I am using the T1 with a pair of new Grado SR225i, no mods just the L Cush foamies, and JRiver Mediacenter with WASAPI enabled. I did tweak the bass a bit using the EQ on MC, but just a bit.
   
  I can only say that I am blown away. I was using the UD100/CmoyBB combo, which was nice, very nice. But the T1 is better. I sent away for a Monoprice cable to use as a line out from the UD100 DAC, just to see which DAC I prefer. I do have some 24/96 files, which the UD100 does not play at full rez. I also ordered the HiFiMeDiy DAC (same as UD100 but with 24/96) and will try that too.
   
  Just be careful putting the tube in the holes, its snug. I am going to let the T1 burn in for 100 hours or so, but only when at my desk listening. Makes me nervous to leave it untended in my office. Something about the tube burning seems risky, though I know it's no doubt safe.


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## Dsnuts

Quote: 





killerweed said:


> Had my sound test starting yesterday. I am glad I bought the tube mentioned earlier as well, since there is no tube in the box (I thought one came with it, but I was wrong). So far, loving it. I am using the T1 with a pair of new Grado SR225i, no mods just the L Cush foamies, and JRiver Mediacenter with WASAPI enabled. I did tweak the bass a bit using the EQ on MC, but just a bit.
> 
> I can only say that I am blown away. I was using the UD100/CmoyBB combo, which was nice, very nice. But the T1 is better. I sent away for a Monoprice cable to use as a line out from the UD100 DAC, just to see which DAC I prefer. I do have some 24/96 files, which the UD100 does not play at full rez. I also ordered the HiFiMeDiy DAC (same as UD100 but with 24/96) and will try that too.
> 
> Just be careful putting the tube in the holes, its snug. I am going to let the T1 burn in for 100 hours or so, but only when at my desk listening. Makes me nervous to leave it untended in my office. Something about the tube burning seems risky, though I know it's no doubt safe.


 

 Are you sure you didnt get a tube? There should be a circular cut out next to where the plastic frame thingy is held in the foam part of the box. If you take out that circular cut out that is where the tube is. You can take a look at my box that circular cut out has the tube in there.  Well it's not a big deal actually as the new tube seems to be an upgrade from the provided one.


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## volly

This should be intersting, just about to pull the trigger on a T1!! Looking at the pictures posted here, the thing looks awesome! Should go well with my desktop setup!!


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## killerweed

Quote: 





dsnuts said:


> Are you sure you didnt get a tube? There should be a circular cut out next to where the plastic frame thingy is held in the foam part of the box. If you take out that circular cut out that is where the tube is. You can take a look at my box that circular cut out has the tube in there.  Well it's not a big deal actually as the new tube seems to be an upgrade from the provided one.


 
  Oops, you are right sir. Therein lies the tube. No matter, I used the aftermarket one anyway. I guess I will keep the original of course but it won't get much use. I didn't even peel off the brown paper on the plastic "protectors" until I saw the photos above. A real newb here. Meantime, the T1 keeps sounding great.


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## Dsnuts

Ya it looks like the tube was recommended from one of the admins at Rock grotto. Using my UE6000 and HD595. Just freaking awesome sounding..I know I am a ways from full break in but this sounds fantastic to me.  The tube seems to be a great match for this as well. I will eventually test out the one they provided as it is supposed to be the best match for the T1 but at this point I can't possibly imagine the stock tube sounding better than this voskhod tube.
 I can tell this is a powerful unit as well. Even on zero gain I have plenty of volume. She is a beautiful unit. Worth your hard earned cash imo. Another quick observation. I noticed the housing is all machined aluminum. This is a great design as it helps dissipate the heat emitted from the tube. My Bravo amp is the same way.


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## killerweed

Agree, I an listening to many of my favorite tracks and am somewhat in awe. As noted, I have a new pair of Grado SR225i here too, not everyone's favorite (Grado) but to me, this is pretty darn heavenly. I had the 80s so why not try the 225i? Seems to be a very good match with the T1. Will try some other phones too, but these are my desktop phones cause they are open and I can hear the phone etc.
   
  I may be spending alot more time at my desk in the future. The Arrow/iPos Classic is nice too, but not this nice.I put all my lossless files on JRiver media center, plus all my other music, so lots to hear. Using Wasapi output.


----------



## Dsnuts

The crazy thing is I have found other Dac/amps that boast some impressive specs for $200 mark but somehow I wonder how much of that is a good thing. This Aune T1 is actually a simple design and it seems AUNE has done an impeccable job of matching the right ics with the tube amp to bring this sound not to mention house everything in a very nice efficient design..So far I am very impressed. It can only sound better from this point out too. I look forward to hearing this after a week of use/ burn in.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





dsnuts said:


> The crazy thing is I have found other Dac/amps that boast some impressive specs for $200 mark but somehow I wonder how much of that is a good thing. This Aune T1 is actually a simple design and it seems AUNE has done an impeccable job of matching the right ics with the tube amp to bring this sound not to mention house everything in a very nice efficient design..So far I am very impressed. It can only sound better from this point out too. I look forward to hearing this after a week of use/ burn in.


 
  Yeah, I have been living in the $200-$300 price range for a while now and the T1 is the first source/amp where I knew for sure that it was worth every penny. Glad you are enjoying it too!


----------



## Dsnuts

Yup this one is a keeper. I was thinking if these didn't sound as good as my Fire Phoenix I was gonna return them to try another one but not so..I can see me using this set up for a while until I get another itch that is. But for now I am glad your enthusiastic OP got me to throw the cash for these. At first I didn't know what DAC chip they was using. Turns out to be a burr brown PCM1793..
   
  Funny thing is I have a burr brown PCM1794 in my Titanium HD card.. This T1 sounds better in every way to it though.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





killerweed said:


> *snip*
> I can only say that I am blown away. I was using the UD100/CmoyBB combo, which was nice, very nice. But the T1 is better. I sent away for a Monoprice cable to use as a line out from the UD100 DAC, just to see which DAC I prefer. I do have some 24/96 files, which the UD100 does not play at full rez. I also ordered the HiFiMeDiy DAC (same as UD100 but with 24/96) and will try that too.
> *snip*


 
  So, which DAC would you prefer?


----------



## killerweed

Can't say yet because I didn't have a good cable for the UD100 vs. the T1 dac. Will do another listen when the cable arrives. I had an 3.5 adapter and an old RCA cable, but it was inelegant at best.So I plan on trying again with the Monoprice cable. 
   
  If you mean UN100/Cmoy vs. T1, I much prefer the latter.


----------



## penmarker

Well currently I'm running the T1 through UD100 instead of the internal DAC with a standard RCA - Mini jack. I much prefer the UD100, one of the reasons is that its louder than the internal DAC and I cannot detect any loss of resolution from my 24 bit songs.
   
  When you get your cable, can you try and repeat my impressions? I don't have much of a critical/golden ear.


----------



## Dsnuts

you try setting your gain higher? The switches on the bottom? The T1 can get crazy loud. Take a pen or something that can turn on the switch on the bottom just the left one up to on. On both set of switches. Or turn all of it on for max gain. Mine came in box with both switches to on and I didn't even have to turn up the volume nob to 1/4 and it was blaring loud using my HD595. Too loud actually. I actually turned off the gain altogether. Plenty loud for me with no gain.


----------



## volly

I think I'll jump in on this, got a good feeling about this judging by all your comments. It will be my first tupe amp...I'm excited!!


----------



## Xaborus

I'm usually in the "the only good amplifier is a transparent amplifier" group of hi-fi ideaology, but this is just plain beautiful.


----------



## Cheapy

It is a very good looking bit of kit. 

I am thinking of swapping from my Fiio E7/E9 set-up to either the Aune T1 or O2 amp with ODAC (DIY) set-up as both are very similiar price.
But it is hard to find comparisions of the T1 to other more popular Amp+DAC combos for all round music and film duties.


----------



## Dsnuts

OK so this morning I swapped out the vosknod tube for the stock one. And guess what. This sounds better to me. The Voskhod tube was a bit on the bright side of sound which was getting better as I was using the combo but last night I got to thinking I have to try the tube they provided because if these guys are going to pay attention to this much detail in the design something as important as a tube for the tube amp portion is not going to be overlooked. They mention on the description of the AUNE T1 that the new version. Which is the one I got has an upgraded tube. the 6922EH. 
   
  To me this actually sounds better than the one I bought for it.. You guys that have this tube should try it..The sound is not as bright as I remember it and in fact very much perfect. So I don't think a tube replacement is necessary for the guys that are going to get this unit. There was a few tracks I tested out where there was a bit of sibilance happening and that caught me off guard last night as great as it sounded. Testing out same tracks now. The sound is somehow cleaner using the stock tube and I don't think it is fully burned in yet either so I will let this play all day to get a good idea of the how it sounds with the tube but so far I like the stock tube better.


----------



## Phalangees

Sorry if this is a silly question, but is the output in the back of the T1 line level, or is it affected by the volume control at all? I guess my question is, can I use this as a speaker amp as well as a headphone amp?
   
  I'm assuming no, but it doesn't hurt to ask, right? Thanks in advance. I think I'll be asking the girlfriend for one of these as a Christmas gift.


----------



## killerweed

Quote: 





dsnuts said:


> OK so this morning I swapped out the vosknod tube for the stock one. And guess what. This sounds better to me. The Voskhod tube was a bit on the bright side of sound which was getting better as I was using the combo but last night I got to thinking I have to try the tube they provided because if these guys are going to pay attention to this much detail in the design something as important as a tube for the tube amp portion is not going to be overlooked. They mention on the description of the AUNE T1 that the new version. Which is the one I got has an upgraded tube. the 6922EH.
> 
> To me this actually sounds better than the one I bought for it.. You guys that have this tube should try it..The sound is not as bright as I remember it and in fact very much perfect. So I don't think a tube replacement is necessary for the guys that are going to get this unit. There was a few tracks I tested out where there was a bit of sibilance happening and that caught me off guard last night as great as it sounded. Testing out same tracks now. The sound is somehow cleaner using the stock tube and I don't think it is fully burned in yet either so I will let this play all day to get a good idea of the how it sounds with the tube but so far I like the stock tube better.


 
  Will give it a try. Of course, I figured the aftermarket tube would be best, but dumb of me not to try the supplied tube. Only bad thing is getting those plastic protectors off is a pain, I broke one already, so need to be careful. I don't even think I need them, since it's on my desktop. But going to try and be careful this time. They gave us two sets, which is good.
   
  Update: Well, wow, you are right. No need for the aftermarket tube, it seems. I am nowhere good enough to say the other tube was superior and with Painter Song (Norah Jones, Come Away with Me, 24/96), the detail and sound is just as if not more impressive. Now this is with first listen. The other tube had 30-40 hours on it already. So looking forward to letting this amp run in a bit. But honestly, no need for the extra expense. I just jumped the gun.
   
  Another update:
  With more listening, not sure it's all that much different, but it could be the lack of burn in time with the new tube. I put on some of my most sibilant tracks and they sound a bit harsh with the stock tube. With the Grados, I am using a wee bit of bass EQ (I use JRiver Media Center as my player). Also using Wasapi + Event Style as the output setting. Need to do more burning in and listening. I think the stock tube is fine, but not sure if the aftermarket tube is better or not. Good to have two in case.


----------



## killerweed

Yes, it works with my Klipsch THS computer speakers, which have a 3.5 line output in the side of the master speaker. If you run a 3.5 to RCA cable to the input of the Aune, it will easily power speakers.


----------



## killerweed

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> Well currently I'm running the T1 through UD100 instead of the internal DAC with a standard RCA - Mini jack. I much prefer the UD100, one of the reasons is that its louder than the internal DAC and I cannot detect any loss of resolution from my 24 bit songs.
> 
> When you get your cable, can you try and repeat my impressions? I don't have much of a critical/golden ear.


 
  Will definitely give it a go. I didn't check the gain on mine yet, but with the Grado SR225i, volume is no problem so I will leave it as is. I may not be using the UD100 though. I will be using the HiFiMeDiy dac, which is capable of 24/96 rez output (but uses the same chip as the UD100). The HiFiMeDiy not arrived yet though. It's a different form factor, is in a small case/box with a USB cable and 3.5 input. Not as neat as the UD100, which I will sell when the new dac arrives.


----------



## Phalangees

Quote: 





killerweed said:


> Yes, it works with my Klipsch THS computer speakers, which have a 3.5 line output in the side of the master speaker. If you run a 3.5 to RCA cable to the input of the Aune, it will easily power speakers.


 
  Thanks for your reply. So the rear RCA jacks in the T1 are line level, but your pointing out if I were to use an adapter it's got enough power, right?
   
  Another question I had is how quiet this can go? I have some fairly sensitive IEMs, and I like to listen at lower volumes than most do as well. Is there any channel imbalance at extremely low volumes?
   
  For example, my current DAC/AMP of choice is a Fiio E10, but with my Shure SE215s, it's way too loud. I end up using foobar to adjust the volume, so I don't have to deal with the channel imbalance at the bottom of the pot.
   
  Thanks again.


----------



## killerweed

I don't detect any channel imbalance but with my IEMs, a pair of customs, it plays very loud. Now, the gain may be set to high (as Dsnuts says his was out of the box), I have to check. When I plug in the speakers in line out, and use the USB/line switch, the speakers play but the phones are silent. If I leave it on USB, both have sound (and the volume pot does not control volume). You can use the player volume control, as you do in foobar, to control volume.
   
  I have the E10 as well, and there is no comparison with the T1 in my view.


----------



## cocolinho

thank you all for your impression about this T1
  Do you know the output impedance? Do you think it can drive my Denon D2000 well enough?


----------



## killerweed

No to question #1 (but someone does I would guess). For #2, no idea, but the T1 has a 10-16DB gain built in (switches on the bottom) so my guess is for sure.


----------



## Jupiterknight

Quote: 





cocolinho said:


> thank you all for your impression about this T1
> *Do you know the output impedance?* Do you think it can drive my Denon D2000 well enough?


 
   
  It's supposedly 10 Ohm, but I haven't measured it myself.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





dsnuts said:


> you try setting your gain higher? The switches on the bottom? The T1 can get crazy loud. Take a pen or something that can turn on the switch on the bottom just the left one up to on. On both set of switches. Or turn all of it on for max gain. Mine came in box with both switches to on and I didn't even have to turn up the volume nob to 1/4 and it was blaring loud using my HD595. Too loud actually. I actually turned off the gain altogether. Plenty loud for me with no gain.


 
  Yes I know the gain settings under the unit. I have no problem with the gain as I don't have any power hungry headphones, but since the UD100 already outputs enough juice (2Vrms IINM?) I don't have to touch the gain settings. I don't want to touch the gain settings, it's just a matter of preference really.
  Quote: 





cocolinho said:


> thank you all for your impression about this T1
> Do you know the output impedance? Do you think it can drive my Denon D2000 well enough?


 
  Nope, I wouldn't drive the D2000 with a tubeamp. The DX000 lineup 1) has very low impedance and 2) doesn't pair well with tubeamps. I suggest you get yourself a solid state amp.
  Add a little more into your budget and buy the Matrix M-Stage. Or you can step up to the game and get yourself a Meier Corda Arietta. Both pair very well with Denons. Or just make sure the output impedance is lower than 2 ohms. If you really want to get tubeamps, get one with an output impedance lower than 3 ohms.
  Happy hunger games, and may the odds be ever in your favor.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> Yes I know the gain settings under the unit. I have no problem with the gain as I don't have any power hungry headphones, but since the UD100 already outputs enough juice (2Vrms IINM?) I don't have to touch the gain settings. I don't want to touch the gain settings, it's just a matter of preference really.
> Nope, I wouldn't drive the D2000 with a tubeamp. The DX000 lineup 1) has very low impedance and 2) doesn't pair well with tubeamps. I suggest you get yourself a solid state amp.
> Add a little more into your budget and buy the Matrix M-Stage. Or you can step up to the game and get yourself a Meier Corda Arietta. Both pair very well with Denons. Or just make sure the output impedance is lower than 2 ohms. If you really want to get tubeamps, get one with an output impedance lower than 3 ohms.
> Happy hunger games, and may the odds be ever in your favor.


 
  someone has been reading my thread  bravo


----------



## penmarker

wir3d said:


> someone has been reading my thread  bravo


yeah too bad my friend didn't and he's pairing his D5000 with a Hifiman EF2A.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> yeah too bad my friend didn't and he's pairing his D5000 with a Hifiman EF2A.


 
  Ouch.... thats gonna suck.... time to buy some Grado's or sell the EF2A.


----------



## astroid

I have swapped out quiet a few DACS and i never could bring myself to get rid of my Aune MK2 , it just has a balance i love, Aune seems to like making PCM1793 Dacs.
The MK2 has easily swappable OP AMPS , be nice to roll some tubes!

The MK2 has a lovely volume pot, is the T1,s action super smooth?

Might cough for one of these.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





astroid said:


> I have swapped out quiet a few DACS and i never could bring myself to get rid of my Aune MK2 , it just has a balance i love, Aune seems to like making PCM1793 Dacs.
> The MK2 has easily swappable OP AMPS , be nice to roll some tubes!
> The MK2 has a lovely volume pot, is the T1,s action super smooth?
> Might cough for one of these.


 
  Yep, the T1 has a very smooth volume pot.


----------



## joeq70

I'd also like to weigh in a little on the effect different tubes have on the sound of this unit. For the longest time, I like many others didn't realize that there was a tube included with the T1. I recently A/B'd the Voskhod tube and the included Electro-Harmonix tube and found that the EH tube had something funky going on with the mids. It's like there is a certain part of the mids that sounds scooped out or recessed. I also found that the stock tube had a little more hiss than the Voskhod. That being said, the stock tube sounds good overall and has a little more bass. In summary, both tubes sound pretty similar, but I found the Voskhod to be quieter and better balanced. 
   
  Anyway, keep the impressions coming!


----------



## killerweed

I had swapped out the Voskhod for the one that came with the T1, but I am going to go back and have a comparison listen. Another owner believed the stock tube sounded less harsh, and I sort of agreed, but it could have been the power of suggestion more than reality. Also, that owner is returning his, so neither tube really made it for him. I am having no such problem with the T1, I still really am digging it. But thanks for the info on the EH tube.
   
  Well, I went back to the Voskhod tube, and I hear it as actually a bit to my liking since I need no really bass boost with the phones I am using. Either way, the T1 really sounds great to me.


----------



## joeq70

Hey all I just wanted to add some new findings. My unit came with all gain switches set to ON. I flipped them to off and now find the sound to be fuller and smoother with my Magnum V4s. I definitely think it's an improvement.
   
  Edit: I'd also like to share that I just received a new old stock tube from here: http://www.thecableco.com/
   
  It's the EB Russion tube that everyone over at Rockgrotto gushes over...and it's for good reason...sounds clearer, better soundstage and instrument separation, and punchier bass. This is the best the T1 has sounded yet.


----------



## killerweed

This one? $45? Might have to grab one for Xmas.
   
  http://www.thecableco.com/Product/Russian-Military-6H23N-EB--Single-


----------



## morebass

can anyone with the T1 comment on the quality of the DAC? i'm debating between this the audioengine D1 and an odac, a headphone amp would be nice, but isn't necessary...


----------



## White Lotus

Just picked up mine today, from Noisy motel in Melbourne, Australia.

Billy from Noisy Motel had already rolled the standard tube with the almighty 6922EH Tube.

The build quality of this unit is ridiculous. I've payed literally five times the amount for equipment that wasn't anywhere near as nice, in terms of look and feel.

At first I was a little disappointed with the LED under the tube, but looking at photos of other amplifiers, I'm stoked it's there. Amazing detail to be seen.

The volume knob is great. It has a great feel, great travel, and no static. Very smooth. 

The sound? Well, the reviews speak for themselves. Hands down the the most detailed DAC and amp I've ever heard. Big call? Yes, it is. But it's just how it is. The fact it can be rolled however you like adds that little bit of personalisation that audiophiles love. If you like it a little warmer, you can add the required tube to do so. The 6922EH tube is perfect for my tastes.

And now? *SOUND PORN.​*


----------



## joeq70

killerweed said:


> This one? $45? Might have to grab one for Xmas.
> 
> http://www.thecableco.com/Product/Russian-Military-6H23N-EB--Single-




Yep that's the one!


----------



## Phalangees

Quote: 





white lotus said:


> Just picked up mine today, from Noisy motel in Melbourne, Australia.
> ...


 
   
  @Jensy - Do you notice any imbalance at extremely low volumes? I consider myself to be a "quiet" listener, and channel imbalance drives me crazy. I've asked around and so far no one seems to hear any imbalance, but I really want to make sure before I jump on this awesome device.
   
  Thanks!


----------



## White Lotus

phalangees said:


> @Jensy - Do you notice any imbalance at extremely low volumes? I consider myself to be a "quiet" listener, and channel imbalance drives me crazy. I've asked around and so far no one seems to hear any imbalance, but I really want to make sure before I jump on this awesome device.
> 
> Thanks!




I Noticed some with my recent Fiio E09K/E17 combination. 

One thing that has really impressed me with the T1, is that the noise floor seems completely black to me, and the channel balance seems perfect to my ears. 

As in, I can happily drive my 250ohm DT770 units with the T1, and also my Westone UM3X.

Not many products I own can do that.

IMHO - they could have sold the AUNE T1 for $1000. People would still buy it, and love. Albeit, not as many would have bought it.


----------



## killerweed

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Yep that's the one!


 
  On the way.


----------



## Phalangees

Quote: 





white lotus said:


> I Noticed some with my recent Fiio E09K/E17 combination.
> One thing that has really impressed me with the T1, is that the noise floor seems completely black to me, and the channel balance seems perfect to my ears.
> As in, I can happily drive my 250ohm DT770 units with the T1, and also my Westone UM3X.
> Not many products I own can do that.
> IMHO - they could have sold the AUNE T1 for $1000. People would still buy it, and love. Albeit, not as many would have bought it.


 
   
  Awesome to hear. Thank you for the information. I'm sold, I'll buy one closer to Christmas and give a little review in here once I try it out.


----------



## proid

Quote: 





white lotus said:


> I Noticed some with my recent Fiio E09K/E17 combination.
> One thing that has really impressed me with the T1, is that the noise floor seems completely black to me, and the channel balance seems perfect to my ears.
> As in, I can happily drive my 250ohm DT770 units with the T1, and also my Westone UM3X.
> Not many products I own can do that.
> IMHO - they could have sold the AUNE T1 for $1000. People would still buy it, and love. Albeit, not as many would have bought it.


 
  Lol. Please stop hyping new product in head-fi. Have you ever listen to an 1000$ amp/dac? Aune T1 is just good for the price. I won't never buy it if it were more than 300$.


----------



## killerweed

Just curious, do you own the Aune T1? I figure you must. And why do you care what Jensy posts about his view on the amp/dac? Maybe $1,000 is a bit over the top, but what's the harm in being really happy with what you bought? There have been some comparisons outside of Head-Fi (on some other forums including ones outside the U.S.) that say it can compete with $500 amp/dacs, I believe. But I agree, it is very good for the price, which is always a  bonus.


----------



## dpmalito

I have this now and yes, it is great. Only thing is there is an issue.. When I set the Aune t1 to 24bit 96000 in the Midi Settings in OS X, it wont play back anything any longer. I have to either lower the 96 down to 48 or lower the 24 to 16 to play back ANY files.
   
  doesnt matter what format or bit rate the music is, i have to lower it to play back anything. Any ideas?
   
  The only thing that has changed that I can think of is I tried that ridiculous Audirvana program and it wouldn't really play anything above 48/16 so i uninstalled it. I dunno how but maybe that affected it?
   
  Are you guys getting full 24/96 inside the Midi settings in OS x? Please let me know, thanks!
   
  Update: In fact, if i have it set to 24/96 and i have a song playing, i can hit the play button but the song doesn't even begin to advance to 0:01. As soon as i switch to 16 or 48, the song begins to play fine.
   
  Im trying everything here.. I thought this thing was supposed to be 24/96 full.. are any of you guys on OS X getting full 24/96 playback?


----------



## joeq70

dpmalito said:


> I have this now and yes, it is great. Only thing is there is an issue.. When I set the Aune t1 to 24bit 96000 in the Midi Settings in OS X, it wont play back anything any longer. I have to either lower the 96 down to 48 or lower the 24 to 16 to play back ANY files.
> 
> doesnt matter what format or bit rate the music is, i have to lower it to play back anything. Any ideas?
> 
> ...




Obviously you need to delete that virus called OS X and install windows. Lol, I kid. i dont use a mac but i'll borrow my wife's and see if i can help you.


----------



## dpmalito

Thanks.  Iv e confirmed that whenever a sogn tried to play back above 48, it switches the T1 to 96 and nothing comes out. The song wont even play. Ugh, this is disappointing.  
   
  If i set the songs to limit to 48 or 16 bit before playback then it plays them fine once downsampled. I'm wondering if anyone has actually confirmed this is full 24/96 on OS X or just looked then closed the window and then it automatically switches to lower.


----------



## joeq70

w





dpmalito said:


> Thanks.  Iv e confirmed that whenever a sogn tried to play back above 48, it switches the T1 to 96 and nothing comes out. The song wont even play. Ugh, this is disappointing.
> 
> If i set the songs to limit to 48 or 16 bit before playback then it plays them fine once downsampled. I'm wondering if anyone has actually confirmed this is full 24/96 on OS X or just looked then closed the window and then it automatically switches to lower.



what program do you use for playback?


----------



## 149700

I have heard some people say the AUNE T1 is overly bright. Has anyone been experiencing the similar things, or is this an isolated issue?
   
  Thanks guys.


----------



## joeq70

dhl17 said:


> I have heard some people say the AUNE T1 is overly bright. Has anyone been experiencing the similar things, or is this an isolated issue?
> 
> Thanks guys.




Nope definitely not too bright. The signature can change with a tube swap however, and I never use te stock tube. But still it never occurred to me that someone would consider it bright.


----------



## dpmalito

ive tried itunes, cog, and that audirvana thing as well. all of them act the same when at 24/96. only the programs that downsample actually let the song play.


----------



## dpmalito

dhl17 said:


> I have heard some people say the AUNE T1 is overly bright. Has anyone been experiencing the similar things, or is this an isolated issue?
> 
> Thanks guys.


 

   
  was gonna say the same thing, try a bunch of different tubes, find one you like. I woudlnt say overly bright though.


----------



## joeq70

[/quote]





dpmalito said:


> ive tried itunes, cog, and that audirvana thing as well. all of them act the same when at 24/96. only the programs that downsample actually let the song play.




I cant right now but ill def report back tomorrow morning after ive tinkered with it.


----------



## dpmalito

Thanks so much, I also e-mailed Aune. We'll see if i get a response. Feel free to PM me as well but I figured people would want to know about this issue if it is real.
   
  By the way, I just plugged in my HRT Headstreamer II and it plays back fine at the full 24/96. I even switched devices in the middle of playback and no go.. the song just literally stops in its tracks. If I set the Aune T1 to 16 bit it continues fine though.
   
  Hrmm m. It's not looking good..


----------



## Jupiterknight

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Nope definitely not too bright. The signature can change with a tube swap however, and I never use te stock tube. But still it never occurred to me that someone would consider it bright.


 
   
  Agree, although the Aune T1 is being presented as a tube DAC/amp it doesn't carry the typical warm sound that is associated with tube amps. It's a hybrid tube/SS amp. Where the pre amp stage is supported by the tube.   I certainly wouldn't call it overly bright at all. I experience the best of two different ways to use amplification presented through the Aune T1 and with a very respectable $200 price tag.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





dpmalito said:


> ive tried itunes, cog, and that audirvana thing as well. all of them act the same when at 24/96. only the programs that downsample actually let the song play.


 
  Ok, so I tried to set the mac midi settings to 24/96, and I definitely did not get playback either, so it's not your unit. I also tried 24/96 in Foobar for windows and it does seem to work. I'm not sure what you should do


----------



## dpmalito

Thank you man, I will try to get in touch with the manufacturer. Spread the word


----------



## Anda

OS: Arch Linux
 Player: Music Player Daemon
  Album: ANTI- Master Quality Collection from HDtracks - http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f13-audiophile-downloads/hdtracks-anti-master-quality-collection-14096/#post189317
  
  Outputting directly to hardware, I have no problem playing the 24/96 track "Villain" by Lost In The Trees. Here's the output from my terminal:
   


> $ cat /proc/asound/card1/stream0
> GFEC ASSP DigiHug USB Audio at usb-0000:00:1a.7-4.3, full speed : USB Audio
> 
> Playback:
> ...


 
   
  If I change to the 24/44.1 track "Dawn Chorus" by Beth Orton, Momentary freq automatically changes to 44100 Hz.
   
  Seems like your setup is not able to change the sample rate correctly. I think it's a problem with configuration.


----------



## penmarker

Well, I'm just unlucky I guess since my unit is suffering from the channel imbalance. Absolutely nowhere on the internet have I found anyone else with the same problem as me. Postage to China is too expensive for me that I might just send the unit for repairs locally.
   
  They still sound kickass though.


----------



## dpmalito

Quote: 





anda said:


> OS: Arch Linux
> Player: Music Player Daemon
> Album: ANTI- Master Quality Collection from HDtracks - http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f13-audiophile-downloads/hdtracks-anti-master-quality-collection-14096/#post189317


 
  As you can see, you are using LINUX, this is an OS X only issue, as far as I can tell. UNless you are incorrectly listing your OS. IF you can try this in OS X I am sure you will have the same issue.
   
  HAS ANYONE successfully used 2/496 setting in OSX Mountain Lion? If so, please contact me, I am trying to fight with engineers who don't speak english and I am about just to give up and return it.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





dpmalito said:


> As you can see, you are using LINUX, this is an OS X only issue, as far as I can tell. UNless you are incorrectly listing your OS. IF you can try this in OS X I am sure you will have the same issue.
> 
> HAS ANYONE successfully used 2/496 setting in OSX Mountain Lion? If so, please contact me, I am trying to fight with engineers who don't speak english and I am about just to give up and return it.


 
  Stand by, as I am actively working on the issue now. I'll report in a few minutes what I come up with.


----------



## joeq70

I just got it to work! here is what I had to do: 
   
  I fired up Audirvana, set the T1 as the device and the gui shows that it is 24/96...I hit play and nothing happened...crap!
   
  I did some reading, found out that some people corrected the 24/96 problem with other USB DACS by switching USB ports.
   
  So, I switched USB ports and BAM it works fine.


----------



## dpmalito

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> I just got it to work! here is what I had to do:
> 
> I fired up Audirvana, set the T1 as the device and the gui shows that it is 24/96...I hit play and nothing happened...crap!
> 
> ...


 
   
  ill be damned! works here too, so simple yet idiotically didnt think of it.. ha! thanks!


----------



## dpmalito

By the way I just popped in this tube into the Aune T1:
   
http://thetubestore.com/goldlione88cc.html
   
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/thetubestore_2236_171418052  (not sure how to insert an image, button won't work)
   
_[size=medium]The Genalex Gold Lion E88CC/6922 is a premium grade selected small signal twin-triode that is a suitable replacement for all 6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, and 7308 types. This tube features gold plated pins and is manufactured to extremely tight specifications, making it the highest quality current production E88CC/6922 available.[/size]_
   
  Holy Moley! You wanna talk about pop! This tube has put the Aune T1 over the lmit man, the highs are tight and the bass pops! Try this tube today!


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





dpmalito said:


> By the way I just popped in this tube into the Aune T1:
> 
> http://thetubestore.com/goldlione88cc.html
> 
> ...


 
  Very cool! I just grabbed one of these:
   
  http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Matsu****a-%7B47%7D-National-PCC88-%7B47%7D-7DJ8.html
   
   
  People seem to be making a big deal about them, I will check in here when they arrive and post my impressions.


----------



## Anda

Quote: 





dpmalito said:


> As you can see, you are using LINUX, this is an OS X only issue, as far as I can tell. UNless you are incorrectly listing your OS. IF you can try this in OS X I am sure you will have the same issue.


 
   
  Yeah, I know. It just seemed like you guys had problems in both Windows and OS X. Just wanted to tell that it wasn't hardware-related.
  
  Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> So, I switched USB ports and BAM it works fine.


 
   
  Do you know what the difference is between the ports?


----------



## dpmalito

Nada I think it worked because when u switch USB ports its resets the LINE IN setting back to 16bit and I think I figured out u can't have line in and dac out both at 24 at once. Guessing though

Also I'm thinking of trying the little dot mk iii since i have an Odac already so any thoughts are welcome.


----------



## joeq70

anda said:


> Yeah, I know. It just seemed like you guys had problems in both Windows and OS X. Just wanted to tell that it wasn't hardware-related.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you know what the difference is between the ports?



I do not know of any difference. It's sort of a strange mystery between macs and some usb dacs I guess.


----------



## Phalangees

Whoa. Schiit audio just launched a $99 DAC and a $99 amp. I wonder how that pair will compare to the Aune T1... I just don't know what to buy anymore!


----------



## GSARider

Looking for a budget amp to power up a set of HD800's guys, will be used at work, hence I don't want to spend a fortune on this...will the Aune power them okay?


----------



## dpmalito

Cant see why not, the two gain settings are more than enough. I use a low impedance phones right now but even so, i use the lowest gain setting and the volume never goes more than halfway!
   
  I alos just got myself a nice pair of he-500s so well see!


----------



## GSARider

Let us know how you get on...


----------



## dpmalito

Quote: 





gsarider said:


> Let us know how you get on...


 
  Ok, I've done a few things since last post:
   
  First, I put in a Vintage 1975 Mullard E88CC tube into the Aune T1. Wowsa, talk about detail & warmth! This makes me feel like I'm wrapped in a warm blanket of music but not so much that I can't pick out every riff and lick. So there's that. Fantastic tube if you like a bit of contour to your music.
   
  Second, I ordered an ODAC which was supposed to be here already but the USPS has probably lost it, so I can't speak to yet.
   
  Third, I picked up a pair of HE-500 phones. Holy cow, are these things big and heavy! I had to add extra foam on the headband just to hold them up because, I guess, my head is very small. Oh well. As for the quality , they didn't blow me away at first, but now that I have some burn in hours, I can see what the hype is all about. I had to up the gain on the Aune T1 to the highest setting in order to power the HE-500s adequately, but it's worth it. Tight, tight bass is the word, and a virtually limitless soundstage. Are they an upgrade over the Aiaiai TMA1 phones I was using? Yes, but less of a direct upgrade and more of a sideway shift. Yes, the HE-500s are better sounding but they are more different than they are better. If you are thinking about the HE-500s id STRONGLY suggest trying them first at a show or store. Not only for sound but for physical fit, my neck hurts after long use due to the weight.
   
  Fourth, I did research for a while and based on price/compatibility/future proofing (im getting HD650s for xmas), I decided to order a project Sunrise II headphone amp to go with the ODAC. To go with the PSII, I picked up a Vintage 60's Amperex 12AU7 Bugle Boy,small halo,gray plate,dimpled top, tube. It sounds like the one I'll most like.
   
  So, as you all can probably personally attest to, I have gotten bit by the audiophile bug just like it happened with most here, I'm sure.  As I get more upgrades in I will update you guys. Thanks for all the help.


----------



## Sniper1

I recently got the Aune X1 mk2 DAC and am using it to send the analog line out to another vacuum tube amp; the Musical Paradise MP-301 mk3 with shuguang 6L6GC tubes. Problem is this is at the office and the MP-301 takes up too much space and i cannot use it to drive speakers, just my headphones (ATH-M50s). So now i'm thinking of bringing home the MP-301, to drive speakers mainly, and to get a more compact tube amp... this Aune T1 !
 The headphone output on the Aune X1 works fine... But i just like the tube sound...


----------



## Sniper1

BTW, both products are on sale right now at this Canadian store, in Ontario; Springwateraudio.com
https://www.springwateraudio.com/store/


----------



## joeq70

I wanted to let everyone know that I changed the thread title to reflect the fact that the Aune T1 has a Tube DAC with an amp. Not a tube amp  
   
  P.S. I'm running a pair of Hifiman He-5LE from it, and it actually sounds pretty good! I will likely use the T1 as a DAC in the future with a more powerful amp attached an see how it compares to the internal amp.


----------



## dpmalito

joeq70 said:


> I wanted to let everyone know that I changed the thread title to reflect the fact that the Aune T1 has a Tube DAC with an amp. Not a tube amp
> 
> P.S. I'm running a pair of Hifiman He-5LE from it, and it actually sounds pretty good! I will likely use the T1 as a DAC in the future with a more powerful amp attached an see how it compares to the internal amp.




So just to be clear if I'm running an ODAC into the aune t1 I'm not using the tube? I thought I was


----------



## jason00nunes

Quote: 





sniper1 said:


> BTW, both products are on sale right now at this Canadian store, in Ontario; Springwateraudio.com
> https://www.springwateraudio.com/store/


 

 I just ordered from them a few weeks ago. Good service and great price! So far i'm really liking the AUNE t1. I went with the 6922 tube based on peoples recommendations. The only headphones I've used are my dt990 250ohm and everything sounds great  This is my first 'setup' so I don't really have a lot to compare it to other than plugging my headphones into my crappy onboard audio. 

 Already tempted to try the [size=x-small]6N23P tube they are talking about on rockgrotto [/size]


----------



## LizardKing01

I just received my Aune T1 today which came with a 6N11 tube yet i chose to use an Electro Harmonix 6922 tube which I have, I will use this for break in till i feel comfortable rolling. My AKG K240 Studio headphones are not a good match yet they sound OK. I buddy loaned me some Audio Technica headphones and they sound really good.
   
  I am using my Mac mini 2010 SSD 8GB Ram, my Audiophile USB cable and i also have the Aune t1 using silver resolution interconnects going into a pair of AudioEngine A2 speakers.
   
  How long does it take for the T1 to break in? Which tube seems to work well and also, which headphones mate well with the T1?
   
  Thanks in Advance.
   
  Liz


----------



## steveting99

Guys,
   
  Just recently got  into the head-fi gear and bought a HiFiMan HE-400 headphone to go with the HA-INFO DA1 DAC. Both units are  being burned in and sounding nice. I'm interested in the tube sound and came across this thread. The HE-400 has low impedance so it's easy to drive with the DA1, but as [size=17.77777862548828px]dpmalito[/size] found out, the orthodynamic headphones are a bit heavy (the HE-500 is heavier than the HE-400) and I'm slowly getting used to the addition weight.
   
  So my question is the pairing of the HE-400 with Aune T1? Also, how does the Aune T1 compare to the Tubemagic D1? Has anyone checked if plays bit perfect?
   
  Steve


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





lizardking01 said:


> I just received my Aune T1 today which came with a 6N11 tube yet i chose to use an Electro Harmonix 6922 tube which I have, I will use this for break in till i feel comfortable rolling. My AKG K240 Studio headphones are not a good match yet they sound OK. I buddy loaned me some Audio Technica headphones and they sound really good.
> 
> I am using my Mac mini 2010 SSD 8GB Ram, my Audiophile USB cable and i also have the Aune t1 using silver resolution interconnects going into a pair of AudioEngine A2 speakers.
> 
> ...


 
  I haven't really noticed any difference between now and when I purchased the unit. I'm not sure I believe there is any "break in." The sound can be shaped to taste by tube rolling, of course, so whether or not it pairs well with a particular headphone will be a matter of tube preference.
   
  I can attest that it does not quite have enough juice to power most orthodynamic headphones (except the he-400 since it is relatively easy to drive).
   
  It powers the HD800 fine, all Beyers in the DT series,  and Grados. I haven't really heard anything that sounded bad out of the T1 except for the LCD-2 which was clearly underpowered. I like the Voskhod tube with my Magnums. I like the 6n23p-eb tube that everyone at rock grotto mentions with the AKG K702 Anniversary and Sennheiser HD-650. I liked the Voskhod tube with the HD800 but did not get a chance to try the HD800 with the 6n23p-eb. I have another tube coming in soon that seems to be a potential winner.
   
  I'm going to soon be using the T1 as just a USB tube DAC and pair it with an Emotiva mini-x a-100 so that I can properly power my Hifiman HE-5LE.  Full report soon to follow!


----------



## LizardKing01

Interesting. I am having some issues when using it as a Dac between my Mac mini and Audio Engine A2 speakers. I do not select the Aune T1 in Audio Midi setup, turn off the speakers then the headphone sound comes alive.
   
  A buddy loaned me some headphones to try the Audio Technica ATH AD900 sounded the best. I am looking at Sennheiser headphones. Which phones do you Aune T1 users prefer?


----------



## killerweed

I have a new pair of Senn 598s, which are a very good match with the T1 (using the Russian tube right now). I am going to go back and forth with the tubes and see which one i prefer (also have the EB tube as well.


----------



## dpmalito

Just today i got in the ecc88/6dj8 mullard tube and boy does it make the thing sing.. It's almost psychedelic when using the ODAC as an input. Tomorrow I will test it with the dacmagic plus.


----------



## LizardKing01

Hi,
   
  I just order the Senns HD 598 earlier TODAY. I am using a EH 6922 tube for now until I roll the tube. Will try my Mullard 7DJ8s for now and RCA 6Dj8. I like to let the unit break in first before I roll tubes.


----------



## killerweed

Hope you like the Senns. I think they are a fantastic value. They sound great both with the Aune and my Arrow/iPod Classic duo. Heck, they even sound pretty good straight from the iPhone 5. But still, the amping makes a difference.


----------



## LizardKing01

Quote: 





killerweed said:


> Hope you like the Senns. I think they are a fantastic value. They sound great both with the Aune and my Arrow/iPod Classic duo. Heck, they even sound pretty good straight from the iPhone 5. But still, the amping makes a difference.


 

 Thanks. I changed the tube tonight and OMG, what a difference. I have some Mullard PCC88 tubes which are aka 7DJ8 tubes, I bought these NOS back in the mid/late 90s. I have never had issues using these in any circuirt, IE, my old preamp and vaunted Dac before I had the circuit changed to 12Au7 tubes.
   
  The Aune is serving as both a headphone amp and Dac between my 'puter and speakers. Right from the get go after some warmup, I coudl hear the differences, warmth and body. The SQ is so nice, non fatiguing, etc.
   
  For tonights session i dill not using headphones as I wait for the Sennhesier HD 598 to arrive. Using my mac mini, Aurdirvana plus, my vaunted USB cable and Audio engine 2A speakers, I am getting such a musical , i am using the stock speaker cable for now as i had to get the termination changed.
   
  The Aune T1 is a killer product that sounds much better than it's price tag.


----------



## dpmalito

Let me just ask once and for all. If I have the dacmagic plus RCA output going to the aune t1 RCA input is it still using the tube in the t1 to amp the phones?


----------



## Jupiterknight

Quote: 





dpmalito said:


> Let me just ask once and for all. If I have the dacmagic plus RCA output going to the aune t1 RCA input is it still using the tube in the t1 to amp the phones?


 
   
  No, only the Dac part uses the tube as a buffer. As an example, I tested it using external DAC's and amps that if the tube is removed then the DAC part doesn't work, but the amp section does work (without a tube installed) feeding from an external DAC .
   
  When I purchased the Aune T1 I initially believed that the Aune T1 amplifier section was using the tube, but it doesn't seem to do so. Also check the pictures of the internals in the Rock Grotto thread. There you will see it as well. The Dacmagic+ will work as an external DAC with the T1 of course, but it won't be using the tube in the T1. This is my conclusion so far, but I could be wrong..


----------



## dpmalito

jupiterknight said:


> No, only the Dac part uses the tube as a buffer. As an example, I tested it using external DAC's and amps that if the tube is removed then the DAC part doesn't work, but the amp section does work (without a tube installed) feeding from an external DAC .
> 
> When I purchased the Aune T1 I initially believed that the Aune T1 amplifier section was using the tube, but it doesn't seem to do so. Also check the pictures of the internals in the Rock Grotto thread. There you will see it as well. The Dacmagic+ will work as an external DAC with the T1 of course, but it won't be using the tube in the T1. This is my conclusion so far, but I could be wrong..




Well good thing I got a project sunrise ii coming tomorrow.


----------



## Jupiterknight

Quote: 





dpmalito said:


> Well good thing I got a project sunrise ii coming tomorrow.


 
   
  Well, then you know what will occupy some of your time during  X-mas holidays  Hope it works out!


----------



## HoukaiAmplifier

Would these pair well with Hifiman HE-400s? I'm interested in one of these
   
  EDIT- oops was reading the 7th page while I wrote this.  The HE 400s were being dicussed on the 8th


----------



## LizardKing01

I recieved the Sennheiser Hd 598 headphones today. I feel ill with a cold /allergies so using headphones as I have breathing problems is not a good time to assess their performance. I upgraded to Audirvana Plus 1.4 and using the T1 with the PCC88 Mullard tube going into Audio Engine 2A speakers is so musical.


----------



## dpmalito

I just got my project sunrise ii amp together (by the way the staff at projsun is great, spent an hour on Skype with me from Netherlands addressing an issue)' and it does compare to the aune t1

I'm using grado rs1 and dacmagic plus with the projsun ii and compared to the aune t1 the difference is not Anne near as much as I expected. The dacmagic/ps combo is bright and poppyusing a bugle boy 12au7 tube but the aune t1 using the 6dj8 tube was large and forward, and by all means an acceptable substitute for 200 bucks! Only huge difference is the dacmagic/psunii combo is drop dead quiet during pauses. Aune is quiet with the right tube but still a bit noisy

All I can say is spring for a great tube like a telefunken


----------



## joeq70

houkaiamplifier said:


> Would these pair well with Hifiman HE-400s? I'm interested in one of these
> 
> EDIT- oops was reading the 7th page while I wrote this.  The HE 400s were being dicussed on the 8th



I just tried the HE-400 and it sounds really great. The tube you choose makes a big difference. Im becoming very fond of the Voskhod rocket logo.


----------



## LizardKing01

I love using Mullard (UK) tubes with the T1.


----------



## Sorrodje

Hi All,
   
  I got an Aune T1 for Xmas and I'm very very satisfied with this little DAC/amp . I'v bought another tube ( a Russian NOS 6N27p quite rare but adviced by a french specialist in a french forum dedicated to audio gear  ) to upgrade the 6922 EH.  I use it with my Ultrasone Sig pro and I'm very happy.  I will soon receive a mulard 6DJ8 and an 6N23p-EB in order to choose which tube I prefer.
   
  I've spent a few hours listening music with this DAC/amp and compared to my FIIO E17. The Aune T1 sounds better to my ears : warmer, deeper and smoother but maybe a bit less analytical ?  I don't know if Fiio or T1 is better .. maybe a matter of preference but listenig music through this little tube Dac/amp is really enjoyable.
   
  Very good product for sure !


----------



## LizardKing01

I recently bought my T1 so let me share to you my experiences. The EH 6922 tube is bland and non engaging. Use that for break in only! The Mullard (UK I hope and not Russian) tube is superior in terms of it's sonics and build quality.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I got an Aune T1 for Xmas and I'm very very satisfied with this little DAC/amp . I'v bought another tube ( a Russian NOS 6N27p quite rare but adviced by a french specialist in a french forum dedicated to audio gear  ) to upgrade the 6922 EH.  I use it with my Ultrasone Sig pro and I'm very happy.  I will soon receive a mulard 6DJ8 and an 6N23p-EB in order to choose which tube I prefer.
> 
> ...


 
  Congrats! Have fun tuning the sound with tube swapping---it's very rewarding!


----------



## penmarker

What size is the tube for the T1? I do want to tube roll but I don't know what size are they. Also how much is for the Mullard tube, LizardKing01?


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





lizardking01 said:


> I recently bought my T1 so let me share to you my experiences. The EH 6922 tube is bland and non engaging. Use that for break in only! The Mullard (UK I hope and not Russian) tube is superior in terms of it's sonics and build quality.


 
   


 You should try to find a NOS 6N27P .. this tube sounds very very well .. Smooth , refined , airy overall sound and well defined bass ..very engaging too.  I will give my impressions of 6N23P and Mullard when I will have received and listened to them. 
   
  @penmaker: Aune T1 accepts 6DJ8 / ECC88 / 6922 / E88CC / 6N23P / 6N23P-EB tubes or equivalent.  E188CC like mullard works too  6N27p ( Russian ref) is an ECC86/6GM8 and works well.


----------



## RMac

Read all pages of this thread and I must say, I'm intrigued!  I just want to jump in and start rolling tubes, etc.
   
  I have a HifiMan HE-400 on the way as well, and I see that these phones were mentioned in this thread a few times, so I wanted to see if anyone else could maybe offer more details on how the sound changes comparitively (currently I own the E17)


----------



## LizardKing01

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> What size is the tube for the T1? I do want to tube roll but I don't know what size are they. Also how much is for the Mullard tube, LizardKing01?


 

 I bought those for $40 each back in the Mid 90s. They are 7DJ8 tubes and are safe to use.


----------



## Gr3g277

HI,
   
  I have Read the whole thread and I couldn't resist, I've bought one from ebay... From your recommandations, I also bought the rocket logo 6n23p-EB Tube to go with, I just can't wait to hear it !
   
  I currently own an AKG k271mkII, with a FIIO e11 amp. I think the T1 is definetely a clever purchase, and I will give my impressions on that particular pairing whan I have my hands on it.
   
  I'm quite pleased with the k271, but I thought I like to get open cans like an akg Q701 or some HD650 ( well some Xmas money to spend, " sorry about your wallet ", right ?    ).
   
  I don't have any store where I live that have them in demo, thus i can't try them...  So my question, If anyone has that particular pair, It would be greatly appreciated if you could give some impressions on how the couple match/wich tube give good results etc... I know these have a totally different signature, but i just can' t decide. So any advice on a good pairing with the T1 Could be helpful.
   
  I' m quite eclectic in my music taste, It goes from russian choir, to electro, jazz, classical, rock, and finnish death metal 
   
  And happy new year


----------



## penmarker

I'm sorry I can't tell you how they pair because I've never had any AKG cans, but what I can definitely tell you is that I am glad I sold off my E11. They are worlds apart. Everything you've listed is okay, but maybe not suitable for finnish metal. Tube amps are a little "slow" compared to solid state amps. For instance, double pedal drums will sound a little slower than it should. The impact is there no problem and worries, but now you can hear each thump of the double pedal as if its slowed down. I'm not sure whether it's just a feeling or what, but that's how I feel when I hear to fast songs.
   
  Everything else is awesome.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





gr3g277 said:


> HI,
> 
> I have Read the whole thread and I couldn't resist, I've bought one from ebay... From your recommandations, I also bought the rocket logo 6n23p-EB Tube to go with, I just can't wait to hear it !
> 
> ...


 
  Actually, this tube business is getting a little complicated.....the rocket logo tube is a 6n23p made in the Voskhod factory in Russia. The 6N23P-EB is a different tube that doesn't have a rocket logo, however, it is possible that a rocket logo variant does exist, so if you found one please give us impressions!


----------



## Gr3g277

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Actually, this tube business is getting a little complicated.....the rocket logo tube is a 6n23p made in the Voskhod factory in Russia. The 6N23P-EB is a different tube that doesn't have a rocket logo, however, it is possible that a rocket logo variant does exist, so if you found one please give us impressions!


 
  This is what I have found, http://www.passion-audio-tube.com/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=7849151
   
  It says 6n23p tube from 70/80, from Kaluga factory in voskhod, military grade, rocket logo, High life-span.
   
  So for for what I've understood, the EB indicates that it is a military grade tube. These seems to have also a rocket or a red star logo.. so maybe these are different ?


----------



## joeq70

gr3g277 said:


> This is what I have found, http://www.passion-audio-tube.com/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=7849151
> 
> It says 6n23p tube from 70/80, from Kaluga factory in voskhod, military grade, rocket logo, High life-span.
> 
> So for for what I've understood, the EB indicates that it is a military grade tube. These seems to have also a rocket or a red star logo.. so maybe these are different ?


Ahh ok. This looks a lot like the tube i have which I have come to love for its lively presentation and lush mids. I look forward to your impressions!


----------



## Sorrodje

Here's different logos form different factorys which made Tubes . I use with My Aune T1 a Reflector's 6N27p . And I bought a 6N23p from rock-grotto ( I'm currently waiting it) . I don't know where Rock-grotto's 6N23p comes from. but I think it's  a reflector too.


----------



## LizardKing01

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> What size is the tube for the T1? I do want to tube roll but I don't know what size are they. Also how much is for the Mullard tube, LizardKing01?


 

 I had bought those Mullard tubes back in the 90s. Prices have sky rockected since then, so good luck. Any tube within the 6DJ8 family will suffice , like 6922, 7308, etc.


----------



## Sorrodje

I purchased a 6DJ8 here : http://cgi.ebay.fr/ECC88-6DJ8-MULLARD-NOS-/310512880990?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item484c028d5e ... Not received yet so I can say if it's valuable and enjoyable


----------



## penmarker

One more question, if I want to feed the line in from my turntable, and the line out to speakers, does the line out get amped by the tube? I'm asking because there are some amps/receivers that bypass the tubes either the headphone out or the line out.


----------



## Gr3g277

penmarker said:


> One more question, if I want to feed the line in from my turntable, and the line out to speakers, does the line out get amped by the tube? I'm asking because there are some amps/receivers that bypass the tubes either the headphone out or the line out.



the tube section is in the DAC part.Try it without the tube inserted, if it works then you know that the tube is bypassed


----------



## joeq70

The USB input uses the tube, not the RCA input, so in your case the tube should have no effect.


----------



## kukynas

Hey guys, I'm new to this area, just bought my T1 out of China with 6922EH and would like to ask if anybody knows compatibility with 6386 LGP, it has similar specs here http://www.jj-electronic.com/sk/pdf/6386LGP.pdf but no idea if it's compatible, I can give it a try if anybody can confirm at least functionality, sorry for my bad english, I'm from Czech Republic. Btw. perfect match with Takstar HI2050


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





kukynas said:


> Hey guys, I'm new to this area, just bought my T1 out of China with 6922EH and would like to ask if anybody knows compatibility with 6386 LGP, it has similar specs here http://www.jj-electronic.com/sk/pdf/6386LGP.pdf but no idea if it's compatible, I can give it a try if anybody can confirm at least functionality, sorry for my bad english, I'm from Czech Republic. Btw. perfect match with Takstar HI2050


 
  I'm pretty sure it won't work.
   
  Edit: Looking into it...it might fit and work but...it seems this tube is specifically designed for use with audio compressors...not sure it would sound good.


----------



## kukynas

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> I'm pretty sure it won't work.
> 
> Edit: Looking into it...it might fit and work but...it seems this tube is specifically designed for use with audio compressors...not sure it would sound good.


 
   
  I'm going to try standard E88CC with gold pins (cost 12 Eur) from same producer so will post my findings later, other then that it's pretty hard to find good lamps here in CZ, going to try old Tesla (same as my avatar picture) next week, hopefully will be able to post some good news as those lamps are pretty cheap and should be sound good


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> I purchased a 6DJ8 here : http://cgi.ebay.fr/ECC88-6DJ8-MULLARD-NOS-/310512880990?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item484c028d5e ... Not received yet so I can say if it's valuable and enjoyable


 
   
   
  Many hours of listening until now : This Mullard 6DJ8 is really really good   larger and deeper soundstage , both tube smoothness and Clarity , forward and organic mids without any loss of bass ..defnitevely a must have for an aune T1's owner.  great upgrade from stock tube  . My 6N23p arrives soon !
   
  You should read this 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .. Schiit Modi/magni review and .... comparison with the  Aune T1  : http://www.headfonia.com/schitty-magni-and-modi/


----------



## MrJuicy

Hello,
   
  I am extremely new to the whole hi fi audio gear and just so happened to get aune t1 and a pair of AKG k240's as a present. I have a hole lot of questions and am currently reading through the forums researching, but here....  i connected my aune t1 to my mac through the usb and plugged my akg's in, i am trying my best to hear any sound change and it seems like the music is more "deep", don't really know how to describe it. Anyway, does the amp work at the same time with the DAC and in when would i use the line output (is it when i connect it to another amp or to speakers etc)? Any, any help would be appreciated, this new world of better sounding music is extremely interesting to me and i hope to learn as much as i can about in the time to come.
   
  Thank You


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





mrjuicy said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am extremely new to the whole hi fi audio gear and just so happened to get aune t1 and a pair of AKG k240's as a present. I have a hole lot of questions and am currently reading through the forums researching, but here....  i connected my aune t1 to my mac through the usb and plugged my akg's in, i am trying my best to hear any sound change and it seems like the music is more "deep", don't really know how to describe it. Anyway, does the amp work at the same time with the DAC and in when would i use the line output (is it when i connect it to another amp or to speakers etc)? Any, any help would be appreciated, this new world of better sounding music is extremely interesting to me and i hope to learn as much as i can about in the time to come.
> 
> Thank You


 
  Hi there! Welcome to this great hobby! I'm not an engineer or audio expert, but I will do the best I can to explain how things work. 
   
  The Aune T1 has a DAC section that has a tube in its circuits and then a separate amplifier section that does not use the tube by itself (it's solid state). The way that the Aune T1 is designed is that the tube is only in use when you are using the USB input. For instance, you could take a CD player and use some RCA cables to play CDs from the player into the RCA inputs on the T1 and then to your headphones. In this case, the tube would not be used because you'd would not be utilizing the USB as a source and would just using the T1 amplifier.
   
  Now, let's say you have the Aune T1 hooked up to your computer via USB and you'd like to skip the amp section of the T1 to use a different amp. This is where you would use the RCA output from the T1 into another amplifier. In this instance you will get the benefits of the tube and also potentially benefits from a different/better amplifier. One example of this is my personal setup. I plug the T1 via USB to my computer. I then plug my headphones into the headphone output of the T1 to listen through those. However, I also have RCAs running from the output of the T1 into a small speaker amplifier that is hooked up to some nice bookshelf speakers. With this setup I can listen to my headphones and the speakers simultaneously, or individually without unplugging or moving anything. I just turn the volume up on the T1 to listen to my headphones or turn turn the volume up on my speaker amp to listen to the speakers. And all of this makes use of the tube because the USB is still my source for both the headphones and speakers.
   
  If I were you, I would try out different tubes and see what you like the best since the stock tube of the T1 isn't very good in my opinion.
   
  I hope my explanation was helpful. If you have any other questions please let me know!


----------



## MrJuicy

Thank you very much, this was very helpful. I still fail to understand how a DAC uses a tube (but i probably never will). So, from what i understood (and this was a very good explanation) is that the DAC works/powered by a tube, however the amp is solid state, the amp is in no way connected to the tube. For example, if i would like to experiment with a tube amp then, i will need to connect my aune t1 through the usb to my mac then attach the ....(any tube amp) through the RAC output and then plug the headphones into this particular amp? Again thank you for the explanation. I do not want to abuse you with too many questions, but are all tubes the same size? If not, which i suppose is the case are there any specific requierements (if i come to store and ask, or look online and accidentally buy a tube that does not fit)? I am doing my research on how the DAC uses a tube as i sort of imagined it to be simply a solid-state converter doing its business there converting these 0's and 1's into a wave...


----------



## MrJuicy

I am feeling the sound by the way... it could be a placebo effect, or just the headphones but the music seems, well, better... just a nicer experience to listen to...


----------



## penmarker

The DAC doesn't use the tube, the amp does. 

Through line in or USB, it will be amped by the tube. The tube amped source will be fed through the headphones out. The amp is a headphone amp and is designed to amp headphones with the tube. 

The line out however, uses the solid state amp, not the tube. 

The DAC is a different component, the amp is another. Don't worry, these things take time to digest. You'll get it eventually no problem.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> The DAC doesn't use the tube, the amp does.
> 
> Through line in or USB, it will be amped by the tube. The tube amped source will be fed through the headphones out. The amp is a headphone amp and is designed to amp headphones with the tube.
> 
> ...


 
   
  IMO you're a bit wrong 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  From what I read here or there and from my personal exprience of all combinations betwenn FIIO E17 and Aune T1:
   
  Aune T1 DAC/amp  = DAC ( Burrbrown chip ) >> Tube pre-amp ( EH6922 EH tube)  + headphone Amp
   
  - When someone uses USB in and Headphone out : USB>> DAC >> tube >> amp >> headphones
  - When someone uses USB in and Line out (for example with an additionnal amp)  : USB >> DAC >> tube >> Line out
  - When someone uses Line In (for example with an additional DAC)  and Headphone out : Line In >> amp >> headphones. 
   
  For example and Indeed G3 is potentially the same thing without DAC  and Line in implemented BEFORE the tube section .
   
  So the most interesting part fo the Aune T1 is the "DAC+tube" section which allows us to choiose our prefered tubeeAND which allows us to benefit from the tube sound while using another better amp Like a Matrix M-stage or Schiit ASGARD or SPL auditor or whatever you want.
   
  Hope to be understandable


----------



## penmarker

Ah yes, that sounds reasonable. I was echoing a previous post someone posted.


----------



## MrJuicy

ok i am getting there... so what if i want to listen to my ipod or a cd player... Line in --> DAC --> Amp --> headphones (tube would not be utilised)?


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





mrjuicy said:


> ok i am getting there... so what if i want to listen to my ipod or a cd player... Line in --> DAC --> Amp --> headphones (tube would not be utilised)?


 
   
  Line in > DAC is a non sense. The only entry point for AUnte T1's DAC is USB . I don"t know if connecting CD player or Ipod to an USB input is possible. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Maybe what you look for is only an tube amp or a solid state amp with Tube preamp ? in this case , Indeed G3 for example should be considered. it's basically the same thing than AUNE T1 but without DAC.


----------



## MrJuicy

yes of course you are right!!! i havent really thought it through when i was asking ....


----------



## MrJuicy

ok... sorry for another question... but a cd player will have an RCA line out through which i connect it to the aune t1... in this case the tube will not be used right?


----------



## joeq70

mrjuicy said:


> ok... sorry for another question... but a cd player will have an RCA line out through which i connect it to the aune t1... in this case the tube will not be used right?



That is exactly right. In this case you'll use your cd player so the T1 Dac and tube will be skipped. The T1 amp will then play the cd through headphone output.


----------



## penmarker

Well, line-in doesn't utilize the tube eh... That's a bummer.
   
  Here I am, thinking about how cool it is listening to my turntable through a tube amp.


----------



## toschek

I'm guessing you could use a cheapish phono preamp, run it into the line input of your PC and then set the T1 as your output, that way you'd be using the tube section? Or is that totally off-base? I am planning on doing this when mine shows up.


----------



## epel

I just have one question before I buy the Aune t1. Will my built-in laptop mic still work when I use a DAC? Im asking because i use Skype alot, and need to think about a solution if I need to unplug the DAC whenever someone calls me.


----------



## Clemmaster

The mic will work just fine. You can choose the audio output (laptop's speakers, Aune T1, other) for voice chat.
   
  The version of Skype I'm using now has an issue with text chat however: when someone send me a message, the sound (music) is outputed on the speakers for few seconds then come back to my USB DAC. This can get annoying sometimes...


----------



## joeq70

clemmaster said:


> The mic will work just fine. You can choose the audio output (laptop's speakers, Aune T1, other) for voice chat.
> 
> The version of Skype I'm using now has an issue with text chat however: when someone send me a message, the sound (music) is outputed on the speakers for few seconds then come back to my USB DAC. This can get annoying sometimes...



If you use wasapi (event) for playback then that should stop this problem.


----------



## Gr3g277

Hi guys,
   
  I've received mine earlier this week, and whoa this thing can really sing 
   
  The construction quality is great, they even put a power socket adaptator in the box  The usb cable is gold plated, and there is a spare set off the acrylic tube protection. These are quite tricky to put in, I've already broken one... so glad there is a spare set.
   
  An electro harmonix 6922H gold pinned came also in  the box, and i've bought a 70's 6n23p rocket logo from kaluga. It has the rocket logo on it, and also a pentagon with cccp and an anvil ( or a star with one erased branch, not sure about it ) inside.
   
  I' ve put the 6922 inside first, and my first impression was a real whoa effect  the sound is so clear, the treble are airy, the mids are luscious, vocals are beautiful, and bass, well very shy but well defined. Soundstage and resolution are great, and I also have the impression that the background was so dark and quiet ! no noise or anything, it feels like I'm hearing the music in an acoustic chamber.
   
  I'm hearing it with my k271mkII, and it sounds a world better than through the xfi extremmusic>e11. 
   
  Now for the 6n23p, well I only have something like 25h of burn in at the moment so this might evolve in some point.
   
  This sound like a tube ! it has added more warmth to the 271's. The mids are even better than the 6922h and the treble is slightly less forward, but equally airy. I can resolve a little less details ( very little!) but it sounds very comfortable in the treble, there is no hiss are harsh soundings. The mids are in the vocals just tremendous, acoustic guitar is great. the soundstage is equally good with the 6922H. The bass is now fuller with my 271, but not tight and even quite muddy... yes there is a bit more in quantity but it is liquid and slow, and not very impactful. 
   
  I' m used to listen with eq 1 on the e11, to add some body to the 271, I know they can sound tight and good for electro or hip hop. But i hope it will resolve with further burn-in...
   
  At the moment I use foobar through wasapi and if I want to equ the bass a bit ( something like 3-4 db@60hz ) the bass is distorted, Is it a limit of the tube ? i Know the 271 can handle it, It can handle +8db @60hz with the xfi for example.
   
  I will give you further impressions when I have something like 100Hrs burn- in with this particular tube.
   
  But I really love this russian tube, the tone and warmth of the mids sounds so good , maybe I'm just not used to their more "analog" sounding,
   
  I really like this little combo, it is worth every cent spend on it IMO !


----------



## pmarrison

is this amp dc powersupply only?


----------



## joeq70

pmarrison said:


> is this amp dc powersupply only?



yes


----------



## pmarrison

seriously considering buying this as my first tube amp to go with my HD 650's.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Could somebody make a short list of the tubes that work well with the T1 and also brief detail on how each affects the sound?
  i mainly listen to and produce deep/ progressive house music. A tube for some extra punch , low  distortion and warmth would be nice.
   
  might get a ecc88 mullard to start with unless somebody gets back to me on rock grotto about an order for the RM 6H23N-EB. The original post on rock grotto saying they were for sale was back in 2011. 
   
  so the comparisons i would liek to know for are:
   
  Stock 6922EH (upgraded version)
   
  RM 6H23N-EB
   
  ecc88 mullard GB
   
  6n23p USSR MG rocket
   
*Genalex 6922 E88CC Gold Lion *
   
*Im really excited about this..i *
   
   
   
  Thanks


----------



## toschek

The Genalex is in the $45 range so it is probably really good, maybe not excellent like a Telefunken or Siemens but at 1/4 the price it's tempting. 

I haven't received my T1 yet, but I've already ordered a couple of valves to roll in. I scored a Amperex NOS Bugle Boy D getter for a little less and I'm really looking forward to it, they are supposed to be one of the best out there from what I've read.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





pmarrison said:


> so the comparisons i would liek to know for are:
> 
> Stock 6922EH (upgraded version)
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  I'm a huge fan of the Mullard which stays on my T1 since I've received it  .. The 6H23N-EB from Rock-grotto and  until now ( burn in in progress) I'm not fan .  I tried 6N27P advised by another Tube fan and really appreciate it but less than the Mullard ECC88 .  An Amperex 6922 PQ orange label US will come soon


----------



## penmarker

toschek said:


> I'm guessing you could use a cheapish phono preamp, run it into the line input of your PC and then set the T1 as your output, that way you'd be using the tube section? Or is that totally off-base? I am planning on doing this when mine shows up.




I guess you could do that and it will work, but it will be counter intuitive. You bought the T1 for the audio processing capability, yet you're feeding it through your computer's DAC. 

But its alright for me though, the sound quality is nice enough.


----------



## RMac

Hello,
   
  I'm interested in purchasing this pretty soon and I was wondering a couple things:
   
  Does anyone have the Hifiman HE-400, how do they pair with these?  What tubes work or don't work with this specific combination?
   
  Also if anyone has owned either the Fiio E17 or the Schiit Modi & Magni stack and can offer comparisons vs. the Aune, that would be appreciated as well.


----------



## pmarrison

i am also interested on how the schiit modi magni stack compares


----------



## joeq70

rmac said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm interested in purchasing this pretty soon and I was wondering a couple things:
> 
> ...



he-400 sounds great with it. i preferred the 6n23p rocket logo tube with it


----------



## RMac

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> he-400 sounds great with it. i preferred the 6n23p rocket logo tube with it


 
   
  thanks.  and with your awesome DFA1979 avatar, i think we listen to the same type of music too, so i can definitely trust your opinion even more.


----------



## icecap

headfonia just did a review on Magni and Modi almost a week ago with a slight comparison to T1... http://www.headfonia.com/schitty-magni-and-modi/ that kinda sold me to T1...
   
  and have been following this thread and I just couldn't help but guess it could be about time I get myself another amp for the new year! so had pulled the trigger on this... ordered before the weekend so probably monday it will arrive as it's free local delivery!
   
  the deal comes free with 6922EH but the special addons of the Genalex Goldlion E88CC at SGD45 is just kinda irresistable! so everything is in.. hopefully Monday I can try and compare the tubes out and let you guys know...
   
  for those whose interested, http://www.quartzacoustic.com/?product=aune-t1-24bit-usb-dac-tube-headphone-amp, I got it here.. think is a new store.. but at that price is definitely a steal! can't wait!!!


----------



## Sorrodje

rmac said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm interested in purchasing this pretty soon and I was wondering a couple things:
> 
> ...




In one Word : I keep my Aune T1 and E17 is for sale  

The Musical quality of T1 is better to my ears and Tube tweaking is a very valuable option. I should advice E17 ( which is really good too) only because of all options it provides ( mobile or desktop use , Digital input , Bass/treble EQ ) . But for sound and desktop/home use the Aune T1 is (far?) better. 

I will discover HE-400/Aune T1 Combo very soon. I found a near-new HE-400 and I will receive it next week


----------



## RMac

I just pulled the trigger and ordered one of these.  It's shipping out of of the US so it shouldn't take too long to get here. 
   
  Can't wait to get in all the tube rolling, etc.


----------



## toschek

I just got mine in today, ordered Thursday from Hong Kong, showed up in the US on Monday.   Very fast turnaround.
   
  I got the standard version because I'm planning on upgrading the tube soon.   The included tube sounds wonderful though.   Be careful with the little tube protection plastic bits if you plan on using them, they snap easily (broke mine).   I wasn't planning on using them anyway, they look kind of hinky - I'm going to have something fabricated out of aluminum to match the amp.
   
  Drums, vocals, guitars and even low-end really sizzle with this little beastie.   Great soundstage too.


----------



## RMac

Quote: 





toschek said:


>


 
   
  What headphones are you using?


----------



## toschek

AKG K 702/Sennheiser HD 650.   I have the AKGs plugged in for that photo with an extension cord.   Stock tube is really quiet, I have to crank it past midway to get the volume up & that is with both gain switches flipped on.
   
  It could be my source material, listening to the Secret World concert film right now.


----------



## toschek

I have to say I prefer this setup with Senn HD 650s (no surprise there).    I'm hearing tons of details I never picked up before with a FiiO E10.
   
  This dac/amp is a great bargain IMO.   Just beautiful, ear-gas-mic!!!


----------



## lwrs10

Has anyone compared this to the Aune X1? I own the X1 right now and think its wonderful. Is this a step up?


----------



## toschek

More of a side or even downgrade if you're judging just based on resolution (24/192 vs. 24/96) or inputs, but it is a cheap ticket to tube town and well worth it if you're into that sort of thing. Keep in mind as well that the line in bypasses the tube completely (only works with the DAC, I can confirm this). 

I do love it so far though, my headphones haven't come off for 10 hours except to take a conference call


----------



## toschek

Now I have to decide which headphone to keep and which to send back, HD 650 or K702. They both sound SO good with this baby. I know the Senns are probably the better choice, and I think the SQ on them is phenomenal, but there is something very accessible about the AKGs.

Going to let them both burn in for a while and see what happens.


----------



## Clemmaster

Return both and get yourself some planar or K-702 anniversaries: best of the 2 worlds


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





clemmaster said:


> Return both and get yourself some planar or K-702 anniversaries: best of the 2 worlds


 
   
  Are you Clemmaster from french TN forum ?


----------



## Clemmaster

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> Are your Clemmaster from french TN forum ?


 
   
  Oui oui


----------



## Sorrodje




----------



## pmarrison

committed to buying this amp today. should arrive in a couple of days.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 
   
  Honestly cant wait to test this with my hd650s,


----------



## pmarrison

one more thing, I have a pair of active studio monitors here in the studio, what would be the best way to get the character of the tub running through my monitors connection wise?


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





pmarrison said:


> one more thing, I have a pair of active studio monitors here in the studio, what would be the best way to get the character of the tub running through my monitors connection wise?


 
   
  Just by plugging them to T1's Line out  . i'm very interested to have your impressions about T1/HD650 association . HD650 is known as hard-to-drive headphone and If I'm quite sure T1 could bring HD650 loud enough, I'm curious about its ability to make HD650 singing at a good level


----------



## kwatch

Does it have Asynchronous  USB transfer or Synchronous USB Transfer ?


----------



## Enuma-elis

Just ordered this little one. I hope, I won't be disappointed. Is someone listening to the classical with it? By the way i took it here for $155.92 shipped. So far a very good communication with them.
   
  Edit: Sorry, from here http://www.aliexpress.com/item/FA035AA-AC-110V-BLACK-COLOR-Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Preamp-Audio-Decoder-6N11/695478897.html


----------



## kwatch

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Just ordered this little one. I hope, I won't be disappointed. Is someone listening to the classical with it? By the way i took it here for $155.92 shipped. So far a very good communication with them.


 
  From where?


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> Just by plugging them to T1's Line out  . i'm very interested to have your impressions about T1/HD650 association . HD650 is known as hard-to-drive headphone and If I'm quite sure T1 could bring HD650 loud enough, I'm curious about its ability to make HD650 singing at a good level


 
  I have tested it...the HD650 sounds excellent on the T1 with the high gain switches turned on.


----------



## joeq70

I also tested the HD800 using the T1...sounded outstanding. I a/b'd the T1>HD800 and a Sony SACD player>Ray Samuels The Raptor>HD800.....T1 sounded just as good IMO.


----------



## Sorrodje

@joeq70 : Oh sorry . i missed it in previous posts. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
   
  I think we should add to the first post all tubes we tried and all headphones we tested too in order to be the more informative as possible for people who are interested about Aune T1! Maybe elaborating a datasheet would be useful with  Headphone OK/KO , best gain settings , Best tube used and so on 
   





 Incredible for HD800 !!


----------



## toschek

@clemmaster I am leery of buying anything anniversary edition, what happens when you need repairs in 5-6 years?   They do look quite nice though, and the added mids/bass would be appreciated.
   
  I will probably end up sending back the D 702s, the HD 650s are just better all-around in my opinion.   On the other hand, I want to try the Anniversary edition now, ARGHHHHH!
   
  @enuma-elis yes, I have listened to Fauré's Requiem with the LSO Chamber Ensemble, ALAC encoded.   It was gobsmacking.
   
  @sorrodje Using a Voskhod 6N23P right now (as suggested by joeq70), gain is at +16dB with Sennheiser HD 650


----------



## Sorrodje

@Toschek: And both K702 and HD650 sound great from T1 with same gain setttings ?


----------



## toschek

@sorrodje Yes, both sound great at +16dB gain.  It seems like the K 702 needed the additional gain a bit more than the 650, which can probably get away with gain of +10dB.  The K 702 needed to have the volume up past the 3/4 mark to resolve details at +10dB gain settings and was unsatisfactory at +0dB with the volume pegged.   At +16dB, it only needs to be turned up to 1/3 to resolve details and sounds stunning at the 1/2 mark.
   
  edit:  indeed, the HD 650 is perfect with no gain at all (but I think it is better with +10dB anyway), it only really needs to be on for the K 702.
   
  edit 2:  definitely returning the K 702s, I just can't get over the lack of bass & I don't like masking SQ problems with EQ.


----------



## toschek

So, onto part two of this journey.   Anyone want to recommend an extremely neutral, affordable desktop amp to drive some speakers?  
   
  Speakers are 8Ω Paradigm Atoms & need at least 20W per channel, 5 way binding posts on the amp would be a big plus.
   
  I was looking at the TubeMagic A1, but I would like to stay away from having more tubes in the signal path + it only does 15W per channel at 8Ω.   A single pair of RCA inputs is sufficient.
   
  Thanks!


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





toschek said:


> So, onto part two of this journey.   Anyone want to recommend an extremely neutral, affordable desktop amp to drive some speakers?
> 
> Speakers are 8Ω Paradigm Atoms & need at least 20W per channel, 5 way binding posts on the amp would be a big plus.
> 
> ...


 
  Check my sig friend 
   
  http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/amplifiers/products/a100


----------



## toschek

Perfect, thank you! Now I just need to get my expense check back from work


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





toschek said:


> So, onto part two of this journey.   Anyone want to recommend an extremely neutral, affordable desktop amp to drive some speakers?


 
   
  Oh it's funny 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 . Im' personnaly thinking about the same question. 
   
  Ii've no real need now but Im' consider buying an amp to power speakers AND most harder  to drive headphones too. So i'm currently learning about vintage receivers  
   
  I'm curious too about T-amp


----------



## toschek

I had a nice exchange with their customer service (Aune) and asked if there would be a T2 like their X1/X2 DAC/amp and speaker amp combo, they would not say though. 

I would be pretty down with that!


----------



## toschek

Look what came in the mail today


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Look what came in the mail today


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Look what came in the mail today


 
  looks more like a dodgey box of conbdoms


----------



## Sorrodje

I received a gift this morning too ...


----------



## Clemmaster

These are UGLY


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





clemmaster said:


> These are UGLY


 
   
  YEAH ! ... thanks   fast posting and good condition . Your HE-400 is perfect


----------



## HolyCheese

I really like the look of the HiFiman series. I guess it's a matter of taste.


----------



## Sorrodje

I like too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I was afraid to be disappointed when I would have discovered it in real life but I'm still like this kind of "vintage" appearance . I like their weight , good cable and Leather hearband . it looks like a quality item  .


----------



## ryuworks

Can I check with everyone here, is everyone getting the 110V version of the power brick? All documentation suggest that the power brick is supposed to be 110/220V, but the version that I bought from Taiwan has only 110V labeled on the power brick, and I'm from a 220~240V country (Singapore). Any help?
   
  P.S. Realised i didn't check properly before I bought, and am now regretting it. Emailed the official email address on the official Aune site to ask if they can sell me one with the correct voltage, but if that doesn't work out is a step-down transformer a good option? Or will that cause audio quality problems?


----------



## HolyCheese

I'd suggest that you don't connect the amp. I found two versions of the same amp with a slightly difference name and the only difference was 110v and 220 v. You could get a stepdown converter.
  This is the one i'm talking about: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/FA035AB-AC-220V-BLACK-COLOR-Aune-T1-Audio-Decoder-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier/695527519.html
  It has another called FA035AA. That one is 110 V.
  Is this a reliable source or should I buy the Aune T1 somewhere else?
   
  I really like the look of this thing but I wonder if this will be of any use.
  I currently own the FiiO e10 and a Fidelio X1. Would the aune t1 be a significant upgrade over the fiio? And can someone who owns both the e10 and the aune t1 comment on the difference (with low impedance cans)


----------



## RMac

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> I received a gift this morning too ...


 
   
  You will certainly have to offer your impressions of the Aune T1 using the Hifiman HE-400's.  I own the HE-400's too and I still haven't received my Aune T1 yet.


----------



## icecap

alright, gotten my T1 from Quartz Acoustic and after almost 5 days of extensive burn in and listening, I am just loving how addictive this gem is sounding! bought the Genalex E88CC as well, so maybe I can give a short comparisons between the 3 tubes..
   
*- Stock 6N11*
  soundstage is surprisingly wide, to a point of almost a bit unnatural as depth are lost.. main sound signature is grainy and hard edge.. sounds like a SS amp.. too much sparkle for my liking in violins classicals.. some fatigue for me...
   
*- 6922EH*
  this free tube that came along with my purchase was worthy IMO for pop/rock.. the top end rolled off quite well and mids are brought forward quite obviously.. quite good for vocals.. bass is very good and tight, probably the strength of this tube.. depth is slightly better, which brings a closer soundstage, quite normal in that sense.. depending on one's listening genre, as I am more classicals and instrumentals, I feel it is quite a laid back tube..
   
*- Genalex E88CC*
  oh woah! best of both worlds! soundstage expanded from 6922EH but instruments separation are improved quite obviously.. is rather amazing depth can be maintained this considerably well for that soundstage.. vocals also are prominent although may not be ideal in some genres as I feel it is the lower mid that is emphasised. This also can result in the bass to be that wee bit boomy, just that bit.. other than that, this genalex is really an exciting tube to be enjoyed with the obvious improved dynamics it has over the stock 6N11.. pop lovers can have some confidence from 6922EH, but other than that, probably it is really just the price that is preventing anyone from getting a genalex.. and at S$45, I glad I made the purchase..
   
  and T1 is really clean sounding... glows pretty too! oh, I am using a DT990 pro for these comparisons by the way...


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





rmac said:


> You will certainly have to offer your impressions of the Aune T1 using the Hifiman HE-400's.  I own the HE-400's too and I still haven't received my Aune T1 yet.


 
   
   
  So . i'm not experienced enough with the he-400 to give a good feedback. When both you and me will have enough time  with the combo , we will surely give our impressions here.


----------



## toschek

@ryuworks Did you buy the amp from their ebay store or from another vendor?   Their customer service is pretty easy to deal with and I am sure they will exchange the 110v one for 220v if you send them an email explaining the mistake.   You may even be able to buy the proper transformer from them if you didn't buy directly from them.   The ebay userid is *wsz0304*.
   
  Like I said, they are really easy-going.   They even sent me new tube covers when I broke mine for free (and that was clearly my fault).


----------



## toschek

@HolyCheese I upgraded to this from a FiiO E10.   It is a very big upgrade IMO.   I still keep the E10 in my backpack for work, but it's nowhere near as good and the SQ difference is very noticeable.   The Fidelio X1 should work great with these, you'll have 1 full watt of with 30Ω cans, which is plenty of power.  I don't know about the supplier you mentioned, I bought mine from Aune's ebay store and as I mentioned in the previous post they are great to deal with.


----------



## HeatFan12

This looks like a nice device indeed.  I've seen a couple different listings and I see some of you have purchased from *wsz0304*.  I purchased my Zero dac years ago from him and it was a flawless transaction.  Just to confirm (don't know about any revisions) this uses the 6922 / 6DJ8 / 7308 tube?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





heatfan12 said:


> This looks like a nice device indeed.  I've seen a couple different listings and I see some of you have purchased from *wsz0304*.  I purchased my Zero dac years ago from him and it was a flawless transaction.  Just to confirm (don't know about any revisions) this uses the 6922 / 6DJ8 / 7308 tube?
> 
> Thanks!


 
  Yep that is the tube family indeed!


----------



## joeq70

Btw guys I just bought a few tubes from the for sale forum here to try out . These ones came in today: http://www.head-fi.org/t/638875/fs-pair-of-siemens-ecc88-6dj8-rca-preamp-tubes
   
  They sound very nice. I'm still working on comparing them with my other tubes but so far they seem like something in between the two russian tubes I have now. More laid back than the rocket logo but warmer than the 6h23p-eb. Seeing as I only need one of these two tubes I just bought if any of you are curious to try it out send me a pm and I'll sell it for a fair price.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Btw guys I just bought a few tubes from the for sale forum here to try out . These ones came in today: http://www.head-fi.org/t/638875/fs-pair-of-siemens-ecc88-6dj8-rca-preamp-tubes
> 
> They sound very nice. I'm still working on comparing them with my other tubes but so far they seem like something in between the two russian tubes I have now. More laid back than the rocket logo but warmer than the 6h23p-eb. Seeing as I only need one of these two tubes I just bought if any of you are curious to try it out send me a pm and I'll sell it for a fair price.


 
   
  Joe, tell me more about the ECC88.   I bought a couple of supposedly NOS Amperex ECC88's from Ebay, just waiting on them to get from Israel to the US.   The 6h23p-eb (I think this is actually supposed to be 6N23P-EV, in Cyrillic H = N, B = V) has a nice tone but can sound a bit muddled at lower volumes.  So far my favorite one has been the 6N23P with the rocket logo which seems to retain definition at lower volumes.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Joe, tell me more about the ECC88.   I bought a couple of supposedly NOS Amperex ECC88's from Ebay, just waiting on them to get from Israel to the US.   The 6h23p-eb (I think this is actually supposed to be 6N23P-EV, in Cyrillic H = N, B = V) has a nice tone but can sound a bit muddled at lower volumes.  So far my favorite one has been the 6N23P with the rocket logo which seems to retain definition at lower volumes.


 
  Sure thing! I'll have some time to do a thorough comparison this weekend. One thing you pointed out that is important yet not many people mention it on head-fi is the volume at which you listen. I personally listen at very loud volumes most of the time, so that is where I'm coming from when I evaluate my equipment.


----------



## NinjaVampire

Instead of starting my own thread, I thought I may as well pose my questions here where it is more relevant!
   
  I'm seriously considering this as my first amp/dac to pair with my DT 880 Pros (250 Ohms) after reading all the great things you guys have to say about it! I was wondering though, would you consider this the overall winner in the budget amp/dac combo around the 200 dollar mark (with usb), as there are a few others I have been looking into such as the Tubemagic D1 Plus, the MX1 and the U100? So many choices... For the record though, I'm not looking for an amp for reference, I want one that will make my music sound extra beautiful, which is why I'm leaning towards tube  A lot of people do say to avoid tubes unless you plan to pay a lot of money!
   
  Thanks for reading.


----------



## joeq70

ninjavampire said:


> Instead of starting my own thread, I thought I may as well pose my questions here where it is more relevant!
> 
> 
> I'm seriously considering this as my first amp/dac to pair with my DT 880 Pros (250 Ohms) after reading all the great things you guys have to say about it! I was wondering though, would you consider this the overall winner in the budget amp/dac combo around the 200 dollar mark (with usb), as there are a few others I have been looking into such as the Tubemagic D1 Plus, the MX1 and the U100? So many choices... For the record though, I'm not looking for an amp for reference, I want one that will make my music sound extra beautiful, which is why I'm leaning towards tube  A lot of people do say to avoid tubes unless you plan to pay a lot of money!
> ...




I mean I've heard a number of amps and sources in this price range and above. The T1 is the first item other than my headphones that I thought was absolutely worth the money. DT880 sounds great with it by the way.


----------



## HeatFan12

Thanks joeq70

Cheers!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NinjaVampire

joeq70 said:


> I mean I've heard a number of amps and sources in this price range and above. The T1 is the first item other than my headphones that I thought was absolutely worth the money. DT880 sounds great with it by the way.




Wow that is quite high praise! You have definitely helped me make a decision in relation to buying the T1! Is ebay the best/ only place to buy one?


----------



## toschek

There are a couple of other online retailers that have it, but I had a good experience with the ebay seller.   They were very friendly, and I got my order really fast.
   
  To start with, I live in Northern California, they are in China.   I ordered it on Thursday night with no expedited shipping and it was in my hands Monday morning.   When I got it I broke the plastic tube covers you may have seen in the pictures accidentally.  I wrote the seller about it on Tuesday and they arrived today, free of charge (not even shipping.)   In my opinion, they went the extra mile for me and they have earned my repeat business.
   
  Seller name is wsz0304, if I were you I'd either buy the least expensive one if you're going to change the tube or the ECC88 one if you don't want to mess with it for a while.


----------



## dirkaudio

Hi,
   
  I use my T1 as a headphone amp (cinch in) and not as a USB DAC.
  I wanted to swap the tube to check the difference in the sound.
  By mistake, I swapped with the T1 still on. To my surprise, the audio in my headphones continued without tube. 
   
  I tried the same connected to my Mac on USB: no audio (or at least very low) when no tube was in the socket.
  So apparently the tube is not in the audio-path when you use the T1 as a "straight" headphone amp...
  A bit disappointing for a "tube" headphone amp, no ???
   
  Anyone else tried this?
   
  Dirk


----------



## HolyCheese

Quote: 





dirkaudio said:


> Hi,
> 
> I use my T1 as a headphone amp (cinch in) and not as a USB DAC.
> I wanted to swap the tube to check the difference in the sound.
> ...


 
  This is VERY interesting since this kind of ruins future upgrade plans for me. Hmm. Any toughts?


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> This is VERY interesting since this kind of ruins future upgrade plans for me. Hmm. Any toughts?


 
  Yes the T1 utilizes the tube only when you are using the USB as a source. So you can go T1 tube DAC via USB >headphones (uses the solid state T1 amp) or you can go T1  tube DAC via USB>any external amp>headphones. Once you are no longer using the USB port, you are no longer using the tube. The tube is where all of the charm of this product lies, so I would upgrade the amp section if anything at all.


----------



## HolyCheese

This was my plan somewhat:
  Get the Aune t1 for my Fidelio X1.
  Get the Audiolabs m-dac and connect it to the Aune
  [Get a woo audio anything.]
  [Get a new headphone.]
  [Interchangable]
   
  Well I guess I could still go this way. I'm just a bit disappointed that the tube section is out. The X1's are pretty easy to drive so most of the 'win' comes from the DAC, Or that's what I think.


----------



## Sorrodje

Aune T1 is interesting as a DAC+ Tube preamp before another amp if anyone wants/needs to upgrade. Without its dac/preamp section, Aune T1 lose much of its interest IMO. 
 T1 itself is very good and self sufficient except for very power demanding headphones.  For these cases I'm thinking about adding à more powerful amp and keep Aune T1 as my DAC 
   
  Aune T1 is more a DAC with HEadphone output than an amp with included DAC.


----------



## NinjaVampire

Would you say the DAC on the T1 is the best part, comparable to say spending 200 dollars on a standalone DAC? It would be nice to know I could rely on the DAC element for a long time and perhaps upgrade to a standalone amp down the road!


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





ninjavampire said:


> Would you say the DAC on the T1 is the best part, comparable to say spending 200 dollars on a standalone DAC? It would be nice to know I could rely on the DAC element for a long time and perhaps upgrade to a standalone amp down the road!


 
   
  It's completely my opinion  . The T1 is a very good dac with added Tube specificities and I presum that upgrading Amp is a VERY interesting way to explore. unfortunately I sold my Asgard but now I would very curious about the association 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. 
   
  Maybe I will purchased a used well rated matrix m-stage or such stuff . i've found a used AKG K501 which seems to need power to shine. I don't know if T1"s embededd amp will be sufficient.


----------



## RMac

Got my Aune T1 yesterday, so I will offer my very humble impressions vs. the Fiio E17 and the Schiit Magni & Modi stack.
   
  Fiio E17 - offers the most value but the least performance.  Upside is that it is portable and has hardware EQ. 
  The Schiit Magni and Modi - a touch too bright for my taste, and over resolving with some tracks.  Doesn't play well with my indie music.  The stack, while sexy looking, is sort of a hassle (I don't think I'm cut out for separate amps/dacs).
  The Aune T1 is "just right".  I've only had it for a day and I'm loving the stock tube right out of the box!  So smooth.  When the tube fully warms up, the tracks melt into my ears like butter.  I haven't even got into tube rolling but if the sound can get better than what I got right now, then I'd say the Aune is a steal.
   
  So in short, Aune > Schiit Magni and Modi > Fiio E17, in terms of performance
  Fiio > Aune > Schiit stack in terms of value.


----------



## toschek

It is pretty explicit in their web materials that the tube only applies to the DAC and has been mentioned a lot. Maybe joeq70 can add this info to the first post though? 

Admittedly the T1 is a one trick pony in this regard, but it does that trick really well.

I am not sure how it would do with the k501s, but my K702s have no problem with 10dB gain added, it is at a very comfortable bordering on loud listening level for me at about 20% on the volume dial.


----------



## NinjaVampire

Quote: 





rmac said:


> Got my Aune T1 yesterday, so I will offer my very humble impressions vs. the Fiio E17 and the Schiit Magni & Modi stack.
> 
> Fiio E17 - offers the most value but the least performance.  Upside is that it is portable and has hardware EQ.
> The Schiit Magni and Modi - a touch too bright for my taste, and over resolving with some tracks.  Doesn't play well with my indie music.  The stack, while sexy looking, is sort of a hassle (I don't think I'm cut out for separate amps/dacs).
> ...


 
   
  Wow, thanks for those impressions. So nice to hear it compared to two others in the same price league. I think a lot of people are still in the honeymoon stage with the Magni/Modi so it's good to hear an honest opinion! 
   
  Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> It's completely my opinion  . The T1 is a very good dac with added Tube specificities and I presum that upgrading Amp is a VERY interesting way to explore. unfortunately I sold my Asgard but now I would very curious about the association
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I have pretty high impedance headphones too so the only thing holding me back from instantly buying the T1, is the amp quality, but if the DAC is good enough on its own, a standalone amp could be the perfect idea. I am right in saying that the tube on the T1 is purely for the DAC and not the amp?


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





ninjavampire said:


> Would you say the DAC on the T1 is the best part, comparable to say spending 200 dollars on a standalone DAC? It would be nice to know I could rely on the DAC element for a long time and perhaps upgrade to a standalone amp down the road!


 
  Yes the DAC section is the main event for sure. However, I do find the amp section to be very good...I think it is good enough for most headphones except for very power hungry ones. I'm going to update the first post with some info so people don't have to go looking through the whole thread. Check back there in a little while.


----------



## NinjaVampire

I wonder what the T1 would sound like used as a standalone DAC, paired with a Tube amp like the Little Dot MKIII? Do you think the double tubes might over-colour the sound?


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





rmac said:


> Got my Aune T1 yesterday, so I will offer my very humble impressions vs. the Fiio E17 and the Schiit Magni & Modi stack.
> 
> Fiio E17 - offers the most value but the least performance.  Upside is that it is portable and has hardware EQ.
> The Schiit Magni and Modi - a touch too bright for my taste, and over resolving with some tracks.  Doesn't play well with my indie music.  The stack, while sexy looking, is sort of a hassle (I don't think I'm cut out for separate amps/dacs).
> ...


 

 Very nice. I'm glad that I've ordered T1 too. I think a lot of people would appreciate a longer review/comparison with Modi-Magni stack. Thanks.


----------



## joeq70

The first page has been updated with some frequently asked questions. If you guys think anything else needs to be added, let me know.


----------



## toschek

Well done on the FAQ, thank you very much!


----------



## HolyCheese

Anyone from the netherlands or someone near the border of germany who has an Aune T1?  It'd be really great if I could somehow try the Aune T1. 
  If you do, drop me a message we might just work something out 
  Greetings


----------



## NinjaVampire

Do you think pairing the T1 as a USB DAC with a tube amplifier such as the Little Dot MKIII would be a good idea, or would it be over colouration of the original signal?


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> The first page has been updated with some frequently asked questions. If you guys think anything else needs to be added, let me know.


 
  OP, you're a very responsible thread starter.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





ninjavampire said:


> Do you think pairing the T1 as a USB DAC with a tube amplifier such as the Little Dot MKIII would be a good idea, or would it be over colouration of the original signal?


 
  I've never tried so I don't know. In my mind, a hybrid setup like the T1 makes a lot of sense but who knows?
  Quote: 





penmarker said:


> OP, you're a very responsible thread starter.


 
  Haha thanks I try!


----------



## NinjaVampire

The prices on ebay confuse me slightly. From AuneAudio themselves, they are almost 40 dollars more expensive than the first result that comes up for me, pbuying.usa. Both models are exactly the same with the same tube, so why such a large gap between a reseller and the manufacturer? Both have free shipping too...


----------



## morebass

Quote: 





toschek said:


> It is pretty explicit in their web materials that the tube only applies to the DAC and has been mentioned a lot. Maybe joeq70 can add this info to the first post though?


 
   
   
  I own a T1 and am very happy with it as a dac.  When i bought it i knew the tube *wasn't *part of the headphone amp section, but the manual it comes with does specifically say "tube headphone amp" in it


----------



## joeq70

ninjavampire said:


> The prices on ebay confuse me slightly. From AuneAudio themselves, they are almost 40 dollars more expensive than the first result that comes up for me, pbuying.usa. Both models are exactly the same with the same tube, so why such a large gap between a reseller and the manufacturer? Both have free shipping too...



Honestly, I have no idea why the price is lower. I mean, I guess the one reseller was willing to undercut the competition so hey might as well save a few bucks. I'd check the seller's ebay rating first though.


----------



## HeatFan12

Great job on this thread Joe...  Your dedication makes me want to go pull the trigger...I must wait a bit...lol...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   
  The Q & A is excellent.  Hope you don't mind, I just copied one of the answers to a thread in the amp sub-forum in reference to the tube...
   
  Keep up the great work...


----------



## RMac

One of the questions that I'd like to see on the FAQ is:  How long should you let your tube warm up for peak performance?  Is there any benefit at all to letting the tube warm up a bit before you listen to it?


----------



## Sorrodje

Very good job for the Q/A job 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  A few add about tubes:We can use E188CC/7308 tubes wich are often the most appreciated lamp to replace any 6922/6DJ8/E88CC/ECC88 family . Didn't try myself but when I will find a not too expensive one ,i will buy it.  I use a ECC86/6N27P/6GM8 ( http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_6n27p.html ) too and it works very well ( rare and cheap NOS tube but a bit more light/refined than 6N23p-EB IMO ) .
   
  Maybe you can add a link :  http://www.hifidiy.net/24-31-1.html


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





rmac said:


> Got my Aune T1 yesterday, so I will offer my very humble impressions vs. the Fiio E17 and the Schiit Magni & Modi stack.
> 
> Fiio E17 - offers the most value but the least performance.  Upside is that it is portable and has hardware EQ.
> The Schiit Magni and Modi - a touch too bright for my taste, and over resolving with some tracks.  Doesn't play well with my indie music.  The stack, while sexy looking, is sort of a hassle (I don't think I'm cut out for separate amps/dacs).
> ...


 
   
  It was my feeling when i listen to the T1 for the first time and it's still the case and I confimr it sound Better with upgraded tubes. 
   
  I'm happy to read you because i'm a bit in trouble with he-400 trebles and I was afraid that Aune T1 would be the origin. Your good impressions confirm that it's not the case. 
   
  I tried first to listen to He-400/AuneT1/6n23p-EB combo  but now I changed to my Mullard 6DJ8 and believe me or not but the Mullard seems to do miracles and brings onto the table a bit more mids. And this addition IMO seems to improve a lot my he-400 experience. Maybe my brain or ears are only accustomed but he-400 trebles still hurt me from another source.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





heatfan12 said:


> Great job on this thread Joe...  Your dedication makes me want to go pull the trigger...I must wait a bit...lol...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Thanks a lot! You can you use any info I post here however you like, no worries at all.
  Quote: 





rmac said:


> One of the questions that I'd like to see on the FAQ is:  How long should you let your tube warm up for peak performance?  Is there any benefit at all to letting the tube warm up a bit before you listen to it?


 
  I'm not sure actually how much of a difference letting the tubes warm up makes. In my time with the T1 I have listened for long periods and not really noticed any changes in sound.
   
  Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> It was my feeling when i listen to the T1 for the first time and it's still the case and I confimr it sound Better with upgraded tubes.
> 
> I'm happy to read you because i'm a bit in trouble with he-400 trebles and I was afraid that Aune T1 would be the origin. Your good impressions confirm that it's not the case.
> 
> I tried first to listen to He-400/AuneT1/6n23p-EB combo  but now I changed to my Mullard 6DJ8 and believe me or not but the Mullard seems to do miracles and brings onto the table a bit more mids. And this addition IMO seems to improve a lot my he-400 experience. Maybe my brain or ears are only accustomed but he-400 trebles still hurt me from another source.


 
   
  What you are saying about the Mullard makes a lot of sense. When I tried the HE-400 I forget which tube I preferred honestly, but when you find a tube that matches the rest of your setup perfectly it's an awesome experience for sure!
   
   
  Also just to let everyone know I posted my tube impressions at the end of the FAQ.


----------



## HolyCheese

Hmm so far the *RCA labeled Amperex 6dj8/E88cc* sounds like the best option for the fidelio x1. Something that brings the mids out a tad.
  Does anyone else know what would be a good match with the X1? Maybe the standard tube is the best option?
  I have the chance to audition the Shuguang 6N11 amd Philips Miniwatt goldpin E88CC.
  Any comments on these tubes?


----------



## toschek

@joeq70 - I really appreciate your tube reviews 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  My experience with these so far has left me with the most favorable impression of the rocket logo tube.  I liked the 6N23P-EV but it sounds a bit muddled at low volumes.  The rocket has great synergy with the K 702 65th anniversary cans IMO, it tightens up the soundstage and has an overall taming effect on the analytical edge of AKGs house sound.  Its a good value as well at $17.00. 
   
  I'm still waiting to try the Amperex ECC88.  The two I ordered have the "Bugle Boy" logo though.


----------



## Sorrodje

@joeq70 : give your impressions on 7308 very quickly !.  I would really know if it worth the price in comparison with a good 7DJ8


----------



## RMac

What is everyone using to hold/store their extra tubes?  Is there like a tube rack that one can buy?  haha


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> @joeq70 : give your impressions on 7308 very quickly !.  I would really know if it worth the price in comparison with a good 7DJ8


 
  Sorry for the delay on the impressions. I've made a few orders with upscale audio and have both my school and home addresses on file. I ordered the 7308 to my school address but they accidentally sent it to my house. Therefore, I'll have to wait until next week when I go home to try out the tube.
  Quote: 





rmac said:


> What is everyone using to hold/store their extra tubes?  Is there like a tube rack that one can buy?  haha


 
  Mine are kinda just rolling around loosely on my desk....I'll have to come up with something!


----------



## Enuma-elis

Do you think that Voshod 6N1P http://www.cryoset.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_24&products_id=244&osCsid=02e5efe0507ac958eb3589684042f574 might worth trying?


----------



## toschek

At that price I would try it.   I picked up one of those Amperex gold pin 7308 tubes last night for an embarrassingly large sum, so I'm going to have to wait until next paycheck to roll more tubes.


----------



## Enuma-elis

I need to wait till my T1 came
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, I can get these for much less(from local auction house)- last time 5 of them (NOS) went for about $8(actually might be a little different from one I posted). Just asking if they worth shipping and trying. In Czech Republic Tesla valves were(are) maid, so I will try domestic stuff for sure.


----------



## toschek

Yeah, try it out.   If you are willing to ship one to the US I would be interested in one if you can pick up an extra?   I can paypal you some cash 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  Send me a PM if that would be OK.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Will see. I don't have T1 neither tubes. Still. From what I've red(no experiences with tubes or even headamps) I expect 6N1P be not worth write home about, and Tesla good or decent but not top-notch. You can get tesla ecc88 from here: http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/NOS-Treasures/Tesla-E88CC-6922-Gold-Pin (in CR it's about $10-$15 but not so easy to find-at least for me- and shipping might erase most of price differences...and I don't like to be architect of your disappointment). There's also a "new" post-Tesla production but it seems that these new ones are not so refined and solid made (check this if you're interested http://www.jacmusic.com/tesla/tesla-jj.html ).


----------



## Enuma-elis

Allright... It seems that shipping might not be such a disaster. Like I've said, we'll see.


----------



## modulor

I'm considering giving the T1 a try vs. my current setup, which is a Titanium HD > Schiit Magni.  It sounds like a few others have found success pairing with the HE-400, which is primarily what I'd be driving (RMac piqued my interest with his comparison he had forwarded to the HE-400 thread).  It seems the Aune would be prefect for my setup as it appears to have good synergy with the HE-400, and it would be ideal to have a single, all in one unit (that is relatively more portable in comparison).  I've praised the Magni as a small and powerful desktop amp, and it works great for what it does, but if the amp and DAC sections in the T1 are comparable, it almost makes more sense to move to the T1.  I also run a pair of Audioengine A2 out of my soundcard - would it be fine to run them out of the T1?  I think someone might have mentioned this earlier, but I just wanted to make sure if anyone else is running powered desktop speakers out of theirs with success.


----------



## joeq70

modulor said:


> I'm considering giving the T1 a try vs. my current setup, which is a Titanium HD > Schiit Magni.  It sounds like a few others have found success pairing with the HE-400, which is primarily what I'd be driving (RMac piqued my interest with his comparison he had forwarded to the HE-400 thread).  It seems the Aune would be prefect for my setup as it appears to have good synergy with the HE-400, and it would be ideal to have a single, all in one unit (that is relatively more portable in comparison).  I've praised the Magni as a small and powerful desktop amp, and it works great for what it does, but if the amp and DAC sections in the T1 are comparable, it almost makes more sense to move to the T1.  I also run a pair of Audioengine A2 out of my soundcard - would it be fine to run them out of the T1?  I think someone might have mentioned this earlier, but I just wanted to make sure if anyone else is running powered desktop speakers out of theirs with success.




Yep you can run your speakers from the T1 no problems.


----------



## penmarker

If you want to run powered speakers out from the T1 then you need to get them hooked up to the Line Out RCA port at the back instead of the headphone out.


----------



## modulor

Good good...thanks for the confirmation!  I'll give myself a day to mull it over, but definitely leaning towards checking it out!


----------



## mbohupa

Hello everyone! I've just bought the Aune T1 plus 2 Tubes (ElectroHarmonix 6922 &  Genalex-Goldlion E88CC) from Quartz Acoustic! Can't wait to try with my new HD598.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





mbohupa said:


> Hello everyone! I've just bought the Aune T1 plus 2 Tubes (ElectroHarmonix 6922 &  Genalex-Goldlion E88CC) from Quartz Acoustic! Can't wait to try with my new HD598.


 
   
  Congrats, tell us how you like it!


----------



## maurits

Quote: 





mbohupa said:


> Hello everyone! I've just bought the Aune T1 plus 2 Tubes (ElectroHarmonix 6922 &  Genalex-Goldlion E88CC) from Quartz Acoustic! Can't wait to try with my new HD598.


 
   
  Congrats! The postman delivered a Gold Lion to me today. Very intense tube in the T1 so far...


----------



## Grevlin

Just read the whole thread 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   
  I'm just about sold on this little gadget - along with maybe (2) additional tubes to "roll" a bit.
   
   
  At the moment it would be laptop > Foobar > Aune T1 > MTH-M50's  (Any feedback on this setup?)
   
   
  My last big question is this - is the RCA line out amp'ed? Could I run from the RCA out on the T1 to an RCA input on my Onkyo 606 reciever/amp that is driving two Klipsch bookshelf speakers? Or would I melt something?
   
  This way I could listen with headphones but also just pop on the Onkyo and listen through the Klipsch speakers.
  
  thanks!


----------



## NinjaVampire

Anyone know what difference the 110v vs 220v would make in the T1? The 220v is 10 dollars more expensive on ebay.


----------



## joeq70

ninjavampire said:


> Anyone know what difference the 110v vs 220v would make in the T1? The 220v is 10 dollars more expensive on ebay.



110v is USA version, 220v is Europe version.


----------



## joeq70

grevlin said:


> Just read the whole thread :blink:
> 
> 
> I'm just about sold on this little gadget - along with maybe (2) additional tubes to "roll" a bit.
> ...




Your proposed setup of headphones and speakers on the T1 will work perfectly fine. It's similar to my setup. Edit: Also to clarify, no the RCA out is not amped. Only the headphone out is amped.


----------



## ryuworks

Quote: 





toschek said:


> @ryuworks Did you buy the amp from their ebay store or from another vendor?   Their customer service is pretty easy to deal with and I am sure they will exchange the 110v one for 220v if you send them an email explaining the mistake.   You may even be able to buy the proper transformer from them if you didn't buy directly from them.   The ebay userid is *wsz0304*.
> 
> Like I said, they are really easy-going.   They even sent me new tube covers when I broke mine for free (and that was clearly my fault).


 
  Thanks! Contacted them directly through the aune site, and got a number of a local distributor from whom I've bought the correct transformer from. They advised me that an exchange will probably incur higher costs in the form of shipping costs, so I gave up on the idea.


----------



## Enki

Just got my Aune T1 with the Genalex-Goldlion E88CC tube from Quartz Acoustic.  Definitely an improvement over my laptops soundcard so far, still need to do a proper burn in.  But the bass definitely has the impact I wanted with my M-100's that I noticed my laptop lacked compared to other sources.  Quite satisfied with this purchase and the unit feels pretty solid.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





enki said:


> Just got my Aune T1 with the Genalex-Goldlion E88CC tube from Quartz Acoustic.  Definitely an improvement over my laptops soundcard so far, still need to do a proper burn in.  But the bass definitely has the impact I wanted with my M-100's that I noticed my laptop lacked compared to other sources.  Quite satisfied with this purchase and the unit feels pretty solid.


 
  M100 has a loooooong burn in period from my experience, the ringing in the mids (particularly with rock) eventually disappears completely (and it's not me getting used to the sound, I assure you), also the harsh edge on the treble tames. So make sure your M100's are completely burn't in. 
   
  I dunno if I would pair the M100 with a tube, its already coloured. Then again the Vamp is also coloured and they sound FANTASTIC together. So does the AKG K242HD. 
   
  And they do benefit from amping. 
   
  Give some feedback and comparisons if possible after its all sorted.


----------



## Enki

Quote: 





wir3d said:


> M100 has a loooooong burn in period from my experience, the ringing in the mids (particularly with rock) eventually disappears completely (and it's not me getting used to the sound, I assure you), also the harsh edge on the treble tames. So make sure your M100's are completely burn't in.
> 
> I dunno if I would pair the M100 with a tube, its already coloured. Then again the Vamp is also coloured and they sound FANTASTIC together. So does the AKG K242HD.
> 
> ...


 

 My M-100's are well burned in, they are from the first production run and have been used everyday.  I wanted try a coloured headphone amp with them and so far it seems to pair quite well, very fun which is why I ordered the M-100's in the first place.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Damn, I have to wait till the end of the month for my aune.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Your proposed setup of headphones and speakers on the T1 will work perfectly fine. *It's similar to my setup.* Edit: Also to clarify, no the RCA out is not amped. Only the headphone out is amped.


 
   
  Yup - looks like it.
   
  I'm using the Onkyo 606 because it was in the closet. It was my main home-theater amp/brain until the HDMI switch broke, making it a "blind Samurai" (common for the model) It seems a little over-qualified to use for two in's pumped to two bookshelf's but it was free. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I'll be ordering the Aune very soon, just need to settle on (2) different tubes.
   
   
  ...nice speakers, by the way.


----------



## Grevlin

Would it be possible to create a list of names and purchase links for all the tubes mentioned in the thread so far that work well with the T1?


----------



## maurits

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Would it be possible to create a list of names and purchase links for all the tubes mentioned in the thread so far that work well with the T1?


 
   
  Grevlin, look at page 1 of this thread. Joeq70 already started doing exactly what you are looking for.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





maurits said:


> Grevlin, look at page 1 of this thread. Joeq70 already started doing exactly what you are looking for.


 

 Yup - saw that.
   
  I saw like maybe 10 more throughout the thread.
   
  I'm surfing through and bookmarking the purchase sites that I can find.


----------



## joeq70

One thing I can do is that if you guys provide somewhat fleshed-out impressions of the tubes you tried and where you bought them, I will happily add the info to my FAQ with your permission.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> One thing I can do is that if you guys provide somewhat fleshed-out impressions of the tubes you tried and where you bought them, I will happily add the info to my FAQ with your permission.


 
   
  I received my Amperex 6922 PQ gold pin yesterday and will give it time on my T1.
   
  I will give my impressions after . I've tested a 6N27p , a 6N23P-eb reflektor , a Mullard 7DJ8 and now this Amperex both with my Sig pro and my he-400 .


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> I received my Amperex 6922 PQ gold pin yesterday and will give it time on my T1.
> 
> I will give my impressions after . I've tested a 6N27p , a 6N23P-eb reflektor , a Mullard 7DJ8 and now this Amperex both with my Sig pro and my he-400 .


 
  And whats your impressions, the more detail the better?


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





wir3d said:


> And whats your impressions, the more detail the better?


 
   
  For my tastes and my headphones, my best is until now the Mullard 6DJ8: Neutral, clear and brings my cans mids to their best without any damage to bass and trebles. but I haven't spent engouh time with each tube to have a definitive opinion.  Amperex 6922 seems a bit brighter than the Mullard but very pleasant to my ears too ... I only have 8 or 9 hours with it so i can really conclude.
   
  I bought all these tube on ebay except the 6N23P. I purchased it to Mike the big chief of Rock Grotto .


----------



## HolyCheese

Then that Mullard seems a good option for my X1 with his recessed mids. can you give me a link to the tube or the name of the seller? Thanx


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> Then that Mullard seems a good option for my X1 with his recessed mids. can you give me a link to the tube or the name of the seller? Thanx


 
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECC88-6DJ8-MULLARD-NOS-/310512880990?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item484c028d5e


----------



## LizardKing01

Has anyone tried or made a high quality power supply for the T1?


----------



## maurits

Quote: 





lizardking01 said:


> Has anyone tried or made a high quality power supply for the T1?


 

 Liz, have a look here:http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=talk&action=display&thread=8297&page=1

 Besides that the whole thread is an interesting read about the T1, tube rolling and British humor in general, Mike the moderator (PinkFloyd) mentions that he builds quality PSU's for Musical Fidelity tube amps. Somewhere in that thread I think I read that he is contemplating adapting one of his "Pinkies" specifically for the T1.  

 As a side note, I am liking the Genalex Gold Lion tube more and more...


----------



## toschek

Just received the Amperex 7308 at work, can't wait to get home.   I'll do a writeup after I've had an hour or two to run some tunes through it.
   
  I picked up the one here:  http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html with the Platinum and Cryo options.
   
  The ECC88 variants I ordered from Israel should hopefully be waiting for me when I get home too


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Just received the Amperex 7308 at work, can't wait to get home.   I'll do a writeup after I've had an hour or two to run some tunes through it.
> 
> I picked up the one here:  http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html with the Platinum and Cryo options.
> 
> The ECC88 variants I ordered from Israel should hopefully be waiting for me when I get home too


 
  I eagerly await your impressions! I'll get to hear mine on Sunday.


----------



## CoiL

Sharing some impressions with tubes. HP`s used for listening test: Superlux HD-681 (mkII filter) & HD-662F (custom filter)
   
  *******
*[size=small]Electro-Harmonix 6922-EH [/size]*
  I like this tube very much and if you don`t bother to mess with tubes, then its good to go as "stock". It has wide spacious soundstage. Well spread out instruments and easy to concentrate on details. Great sence of air. Has more highs and bass depth/reverb than 6N23P. Great tube for towards "fun" sounding HP`s like HD-681 for longer music listening sessions.
  Great with different genres but better for electronic music. 
   
  *******
*Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 (1969, GAC, large dimple disc getter on a single leg support, NOS)*
   
  [size=small]Similiar to 6922EH. Both have wide soundstage, airy sound, very well spread out instruments and easy to concentrate on certain details/instruments. Amperex has less highs and bass is more tight, making it littlebit less airy. More life in mids, bringing vocals more into "sight". I personally find this tube better for rock/metal than 6922EH but sounds great with different genres and is good also good with flat sounding HP`s.[/size]
   
  *******
*6N23P (Reflektor logo, from Mike @ rockgrotto)*
  Has narrower soundstage than tubes mentioned before and instruments are less separated. Less air, space and more foward sounding. Good tube for flat sounding monitoring cans. Personally I prefer Amperex with HD-662F for music listening. For studio monitoring 6N23P is propably better.
   
  *******
*[size=x-small]Brimar ECC88/6DJ8 (late 70´, round large halo getter, "cinemascope" logo)[/size]*[size=small][/size]
  
  [size=small]Not good with Aune T1. It is quite bright and narrow sounding, dry, no liveness, bass is lost.[/size]
   
  *******
*[size=x-small]Tungsram PCC88/7DJ8 (1972, made in Hungary, NOS)[/size]*[size=small][/size]
  
  [size=small]This tube is very similiar to 6922EH. It is hard to compare those 2 and find differences. All I could figure out with my ears is that b[/size][size=small]oth tubes have exactly the same soundstage, space and instrument separation. [/size]
 [size=small]With 6922EH there is tinybit more bright top-end and thus makes 6922EH only fraction more airy/detail.[/size][size=small][/size]
 [size=small]Bass is littlebit more punchy and tighter on Tungsram but again, only a fraction.[/size]
  [size=x-small]Atm, for me, it`s the best tube for HD-681 (mkII).[/size]
  _______________________
   
  Overall, for me, the best tube for different genres & cans is [size=small]Tungsram PCC88/7DJ8.[/size]
  [size=small]Will make more comparing between Amperex and Tungsram later.[/size]
   
  [size=small]Also ordered one Tesla PCC88/7DJ8 (NOS, Yellow 32 Factory Code for Tesla Rožnov n.p. Závod Vrchlabí plant)[/size]
  [size=small]Will update soon.[/size]


----------



## toschek

Well, the ECC88s did not show up today, much to my disappointment.   However, the 7308 did show up today and as promised I have some impressions to share.
   
  As you can see in my sig, I've become pretty attached to the rocket logo 6N23P.   It is a good tube, and it also has price going for it.  I paid $17 for the rocket logo, whereas the 7308 cost me about $95 + shipping.   The 7308 I bought was a platinum grade tube (added $10 to the $80 list price) & it was cryo treated (added another $5).   With tax/shipping it came out to $115.   $115 is obviously a lot more $$ than $17 so keep this in mind when you decide what tube is best for you.
   
  Right away, even in the first second of starting a track, you can tell immediately that the 7308 is a MUCH better tube than the Russian tubes.   It retains the wonderful warmth of the rocket logo tube, but adds to it a level of clarity and detail from the bass to the uppermost treble.  
   
  On the subject of detail, it's really stunning ... I can hear fingers brushing strings, the creak of chairs in the studio, it is so revealing in fact that lower quality rips that would have sounded OK with the rocket tube sound a little less good on this tube (note to self:  re-encode those 160Kbps mp3s).  
   
  As far as actual sound, everything is there -- the bass is liquid yet refined, mids are smooth and full and the treble is beautiful and not tiresome at all.  
   
  Sound stage with this tube is as close to perfect as you can expect from a $200 amp & $400 set of cans, I feel like I am listening to something much more expensive.
   
  So I think this one is a keeper, and it will be my primary tube going forward.   Was it worth $100 more than the rocket tube?   I'm going to say yes, but if you're on a budget you can skip this upgrade without missing too much (but you'll be missing something).
   
  Hopefully the ECC88s come tomorrow so I can compare.   I'm going to go lose myself in music now


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Well, the ECC88s did not show up today, much to my disappointment.   However, the 7308 did show up today and as promised I have some impressions to share.
> 
> As you can see in my sig, I've become pretty attached to the rocket logo 6N23P.   It is a good tube, and it also has price going for it.  I paid $17 for the rocket logo, whereas the 7308 cost me about $95 + shipping.   The 7308 I bought was a platinum grade tube (added $10 to the $80 list price) & it was cryo treated (added another $5).   With tax/shipping it came out to $115.   $115 is obviously a lot more $$ than $17 so keep this in mind when you decide what tube is best for you.
> 
> ...


 
  Ah man!!! You've got me pumped to get mine now!


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Ah man!!! You've got me pumped to get mine now!


 

 HA!
   
  I'm making a list of "tubes" before I even order the T1


----------



## toschek

grevlin said:


> HA!
> 
> I'm making a list of "tubes" before I even order the T1 :blink:




... and I'm tempted to try the Phillips Miniwatt now, but I think I've hit the point of diminishing returns.

EDIT: I've run my turntable through my laptop's line in and out the T1 DAC. All I can say is "WOW!" This is how vinyl is supposed to sound!


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





toschek said:


> (note to self:  re-encode those 160Kbps mp3s).


 
  I seriously hope you mean re-rip as FLAC and not up-encode 160kB/s mp3's to 320kB/s
  Quote: 





grevlin said:


> HA!
> I'm making a list of "tubes" before I even order the T1


 
  I already have :/ gonna pair it with my AKG K242HD.
  Quote: 





toschek said:


> ... and I'm tempted to try the Phillips Miniwatt now, but I think I've hit the point of diminishing returns.
> 
> EDIT: I've run my turntable through my laptop's line in and out the T1 DAC. All I can say is "WOW!" This is how vinyl is supposed to sound!


 
  Your using the Laptops ADC (which is crap) so that will be ruining most of it. and using an ADC and a DAC in a vinyl chain is DEFINITELY NOT how its supposed to sound.
  It should be, Vinyl -> phono stage -> T1(audio In) buy you will be missing the tube.


----------



## toschek

You make a good point, I'll route it through my m-audio fast track ultra and bypass the computer's ADC. Anyway, it still sounded better than it did through my old integrated receiver (which is a piece of crap).

Yes, I meant re-rip as lossless.


----------



## HolyCheese

What would be a good cheap phono pre amp? ~$25 from ebay?


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> What would be a good cheap phono pre amp? ~$25 from ebay?


 
  Cambridge Audio Azure 551p and 651p are the best your gonna get before spending tons of money. I wouldn't spend less then that.


----------



## HolyCheese

Hmm that wouldn't be worth the price. Then i'd just place my big bulky AV Receiver here and use it just for fun.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





coil said:


> Sharing some impressions with tubes. HP`s used for listening test: Superlux HD-681 (mkII filter) & HD-662F (custom filter)
> 
> *******
> *[size=small]Electro-Harmonix 6922-EH [/size]*
> ...


 
  Had some more serious listening between *Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 (1969, GAC, large dimple disc getter on a single leg support, NOS) *vs *[size=x-small]Tungsram PCC88/7DJ8 (1972, made in Hungary, NOS).[/size]*
   
  Amperex is certainly better for rock/metal. Overall better for music full of percussive & string instruments. Soundstage/headroom is smaller and has less air and room response. Soundstage is littlebit more laid in front of you. Loud distorted guitar riffs are more separated and identifiable. Vocals more in "sight" and "cleaner". Mids have more "full body". Also if you have more flat sounding HP`s this is certainly better than Tungsram.
   
  In contrast, Tungsram is better for electronic music. More air and larger soundstage/headroom make a feel you are more in middle of room and surrounded by it. Don`t get me wrong, this tube does not have too hollow & hall-like sound that details/instruments start to get "lost". It has very enjoyable soundstage and for longer listening sessions I still prefer this tube to Amperex with different genres. But when you are listening mostly hard rock/metal/trash etc. go for Amperex! Also what I manager to notice, is that Tungsram definitely has more punchy & tighter bass at lower/normal listening volume than 6922EH.
   
  For me these two are the best tubes at the moment. Now waiting for [size=small]Tesla PCC88/7DJ8...[/size]


----------



## Grevlin

^^^-------------   Wow - thanks for all that info.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> Had some more serious listening between *Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 (1969, GAC, large dimple disc getter on a single leg support, NOS) *vs *[size=x-small]Tungsram PCC88/7DJ8 (1972, made in Hungary, NOS).[/size]*
> 
> Amperex is certainly better for rock/metal. Overall better for music full of percussive & string instruments. Soundstage/headroom is smaller and has less air and room response. Soundstage is littlebit more laid in front of you. Loud distorted guitar riffs are more separated and identifiable. Vocals more in "sight" and "cleaner". Mids have more "full body". Also if you have more flat sounding HP`s this is certainly better than Tungsram.
> 
> ...


 
  Try some E88CC also. They seems to be decent quality and I would be very interested in comparison with your other tubes.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> Hmm that wouldn't be worth the price. Then i'd just place my big bulky AV Receiver here and use it just for fun.


 
  Well i think its a bargain,


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





coil said:


> Had some more serious listening between *Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 (1969, GAC, large dimple disc getter on a single leg support, NOS) *vs *[size=x-small]Tungsram PCC88/7DJ8 (1972, made in Hungary, NOS).[/size]*
> 
> Amperex is certainly better for rock/metal. Overall better for music full of percussive & string instruments. Soundstage/headroom is smaller and has less air and room response. Soundstage is littlebit more laid in front of you. Loud distorted guitar riffs are more separated and identifiable. Vocals more in "sight" and "cleaner". Mids have more "full body". Also if you have more flat sounding HP`s this is certainly better than Tungsram.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I just found both NIB/NOS Tungsram PCC88/78DJ & Tesla PCC88/78DJ on ebay for $7.00/ea + $8.00 shipping!   Thanks for the tip!


----------



## CoiL

Which Amperex E88CC exactly? If you can find me a cheap pricing one then will try. Atm I´ve managed to get my tubes very cheaply. 
  After [size=small]Tesla PCC88/7DJ8 I have already in sight one Mullard CV2492 E88CC/6DJ8. [/size]


----------



## dcfis

no such thing as a cheap e88cc


----------



## dcfis

does anyone use the aune from the usb out of a giii?


----------



## Enuma-elis

Sorry, I meant Tesla E88CC, these with golden pins.They're about $25/piece on ebay.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> no such thing as a cheap e88cc


 
  Exactly!
   
  Buying cheap tubes and discovering "hidden sounds" is more fun for me  Btw, if someone is interested in that Amperex I have, there is one still available: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251204058788?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
   
  Mine has code delta9F3.
   
   



enuma-elis said:


> Sorry, I meant Tesla E88CC, these with golden pins.They're about $25/piece on ebay.


 
  Will put behind my ears. Thanks for tip!


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> Exactly!
> 
> Buying cheap tubes and discovering "hidden sounds" is more fun for me  Btw, if someone is interested in that Amperex I have, there is one still available: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251204058788?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> 
> ...


 
   
  What the hey...I bought it.
   
  My first tube.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> does anyone use the aune from the usb out of a giii?


 
  Good question!
   
  Someone give it a whack. Note 2 and Note 10.1 tab would also work.


----------



## CoiL

Hope you like it. Also there is one good offer to Tungsram PCC88 + RFT PCC88: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181038319964?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  Bought mine from same seller: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181038321199?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> Hope you like it. Also there is one good offer to Tungsram PCC88 + RFT PCC88: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181038319964?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> Bought mine from same seller: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181038321199?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


 
   
  I wonder why there is such a huge difference in price.
   
  $70 at TubeDepot
   
  $12 from Ebay seller
   
  ...seems odd.


----------



## CoiL

Well, the seller might not know its real value (seems so) ;D I dont know, anyway mine was really like NOS and pins had no marks on them. Just cleaned them before use with Vinegar (30%) + baking soda. Works and sounds like a charm!


----------



## Grevlin

Groovy - I likes me a good deal. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I'll make note of the cleaning techniques.
   
  Thanks again.


----------



## icecap

arh, now the tube rolling discussions are in! this is tempting me again..... can never underestimate a NOS...
   
  anyway, saw this and thought I can share.. a good guide to differentiate the vast differences... http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
   
  now, more homework for me to do the hunting and rolling!


----------



## dcfis

guys seriously be careful with eBay tubes.there are many fakes and tons of incentive to do so with prices so high and if the buyer isn't an expert on the inner details of construction many are listening to cheap Russian or Chinese tubes thinking its a tele or amperex. That's why the tested and assured dealer tubes are so expensive.


----------



## Salvatore

Couldn't wait any longer. Just ordered black T1 to go with my K702 anniversaries. I'm kind of a tube noob and I want to thank *toschek* for being very helpful and providing great information for me. I'll let you know my impressions as soon as the amp gets here. I will definitely get the rocket logo tube, but need affordable neutral sounding tube as well. Any suggestions?


----------



## jiggahwhat

Any more information on how the Aune T1 compares to the Magni/Modi stack? Those appear to be the only two worthwhile options at the $200 price point.


----------



## Sorrodje

I purchased recently an old K501 . I will give my impressions about T1 and my tubes too


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





rmac said:


> Got my Aune T1 yesterday, so I will offer my very humble impressions vs. the Fiio E17 and the Schiit Magni & Modi stack.
> 
> Fiio E17 - offers the most value but the least performance.  Upside is that it is portable and has hardware EQ.
> The Schiit Magni and Modi - a touch too bright for my taste, and over resolving with some tracks.  Doesn't play well with my indie music.  The stack, while sexy looking, is sort of a hassle (I don't think I'm cut out for separate amps/dacs).
> ...


 
    
   
  Quote:


jiggahwhat said:


> Any more information on how the Aune T1 compares to the Magni/Modi stack? Those appear to be the only two worthwhile options at the $200 price point.


 
   
   
  You can see the above quoted comparison from a HE-400 owner


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> guys seriously be careful with eBay tubes.there are many fakes and tons of incentive to do so with prices so high and if the buyer isn't an expert on the inner details of construction many are listening to cheap Russian or Chinese tubes thinking its a tele or amperex. That's why the tested and assured dealer tubes are so expensive.


 
  There is lot of info about it. For now I have managed to get original tubes in great NOS condition  
  Yes there is chance you get a bad tube but if you know what you are buying and how to identify the fake ones, then you save A LOT and get many different tubes to choose from for the same money.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> if you know what you are buying and how to identify the fake ones, then you save A LOT


 
   
  Do you have any sources where we could learn how to identify fake tubes?


----------



## CoiL

For example, link that icecap gave. Info is out there, there is many more links describing fake tubes, just google. Of course some tubes are copied very good that you can`t make difference but still... doesn`t mean everybody should be afraid to buy NOS tubes from eBay. Have some trust in people


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> For example, link that icecap gave. Info is out there, there is many more links describing fake tubes, just google. Of course some tubes are copied very good that you can`t make difference but still... doesn`t mean everybody should be afraid to buy NOS tubes from eBay. Have some trust in people


 

 Exactly
   
  Plus, this whole shindig is subjective.
   
  If I plug in the tube and it sounds great (to me) ...does it matter if its a fake?


----------



## icecap

yeah.. always two sides to a coin.. and I just feel there can be no guarantee in purchase of tubes.. NOS, NIB, fakes, all the same IMHO.. it can last longer than we live or just die the very next minute.. what is so crucial in buying tubes is the after-support within that any warranty period from the dealers.. after that period, and based on such volatile nature of tubes, this make such purchases just a gamble afterall... that is why most of the time those test readings from tube dealers really do not bother me as there is seriously no way of authenticating them other than using their exact same machines to test! like coil mentioned, is ultimately just a case of trust...
   
  and then the relative nature of comparisons also bring into the picture too.. having a few supposedly-different signatures tube to roll can hear the obvious more.. then check with impressions by others all over the net.. by then it should be discerning enough to tell if you have gotten a gem, or the opposite! hah...


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Exactly
> 
> Plus, this whole shindig is subjective.
> 
> If I plug in the tube and it sounds great (to me) ...does it matter if its a fake?


 
  It would be an issue if the fake is only 70% as good as the real one. And you paid real good money for it, not fake money.


----------



## toschek

I'm just happy I bought a real 7308 from a reputable dealer.  I don't need any other tubes, this one works just fine TYVM.  
   
On second thought, I need a dozen maybe to last the rest of my lifetime, but you get the picture.


----------



## dcfis

oh wow,wow. Wow



grevlin said:


> Exactly
> 
> Plus, this whole shindig is subjective.
> 
> If I plug in the tube and it sounds great (to me) ...does it matter if its a fake?


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> oh wow,wow. Wow


 
  It would be funny if the fake sounded better, but I highly doubt it.


----------



## Sorrodje

Don't forget that ebay does not always means "fake" or "thief". Many resellers use ebay as a web portal. It's the case for ebay links I gave earlier in the thread.


----------



## Grevlin

dcfis said:


> oh wow,wow. Wow




Would, would, would you like to clarify?


----------



## NinjaVampire

Fakes equal low quality materials used, lower build quality and are illegal to sell and buy. If you are blindly happy with fake tubes, tube rolling probably isn't for you.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





ninjavampire said:


> Fakes equal low quality materials used, lower build quality and are illegal to sell and buy. If you are blindly happy with fake tubes, tube rolling probably isn't for you.


 
  deleted


----------



## NinjaVampire

I'm just commenting on the idea of buying fake things in general. Generally I would make sure 100% that something is real before I buy it and that the person I was buying it from was reputable, but maybe that is just me. I've been known to spend a little too low researching my prospective buys, such as the T1


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





ninjavampire said:


> I'm just commenting on the idea of buying fake things in general. Generally I would make sure 100% that something is real before I buy it and that the person I was buying it from was reputable, but maybe that is just me. I've been known to spend a little too low researching my prospective buys, such as the T1


 
  duplicate post


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





ninjavampire said:


> I'm just commenting on the idea of buying fake things in general. Generally I would make sure 100% that something is real before I buy it and that the person I was buying it from was reputable, but maybe that is just me. I've been known to spend a little too low researching my prospective buys, such as the T1


 

 Agree on all points.
   
  (Do you mean you sometimes don't research enough before buys?)
   
  I'm pretty good at spotting fakes at the ad level because I research the crap out of almost everything I buy online. And I buy a LOT online because I'm very choosy and almost everything I finally choose is not available locally.
   
  For example, the tube I bought is from a seller on EBAY. Seller has 357 comments at a rating of 100% positive. Pretty hard to deal in fakes and not get a single negative from 357 buyers. Plus I didn't spot a single suspicious flag on his whole page.
   
  More importantly, I'm at the beginner stage so I will be buying tubes at the $20-$30 level for now. Maybe later I could justify getting a tube for $75-$100 or even more. This first tube from EBAY was $18 - if its a fake, I'm not gonna be that put out. The others I order will be from a site like TubeStore, UpscaleAudio, BOI AudioWorks etc


----------



## NinjaVampire

Generally I would be under the assumption that if a seller has 100 % feedback you are good to go. I am the same in so far as I will literally research for weeks before buying something. On the topic, how do you find the T1? Do you reckon it is the best money can buy at the price?


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





ninjavampire said:


> Generally I would be under the assumption that if a seller has 100 % feedback you are good to go. I am the same in so far as I will literally research for weeks before buying something. On the topic, how do you find the T1? Do you reckon it is the best money can buy at the price?


 

 Yeah, umm, funny thing...
   
   
  I have not yet ordered it.
   
   
  I'm really close though.


----------



## HolyCheese

What is a cheap but still trustworthy reseller?


----------



## toschek

I bought some ecc88 tubes from eBay user *lupoz* and I don't know if its just my inner cynic or not but I was fully expecting to be ripped off. He actually sent what he advertised -- two Amperex Bugle Boy tubes. As far as I can tell they aren't fakes based on all of the "how to spot a fake" guides I've seen. They actually sound good too.

Both are just straight ECC88s from Merleen, Holland. One has a dimple getter, the other a ring getter. I've only done a little listening and both sound very smooth, a bit on the warm side. Imaging and soundstage are good, bass is tight and they have very full mids, treble is fine as well. They do not have the other-worldly quality of the 7308, but for $25/each they are very good, I'd give them a solid B.


----------



## Grevlin

That is the exact same seller I just ordered from.
   
  Great to hear.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





toschek said:


> One has a dimple getter


 
   
  Is it the same single support leg amperex that I have or A frame support? I bought from here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230899559453?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## Paspie

Hi there, sorry if I seem a bit annoying 'cause this is my first post:
   
  I'm considering an Aune T1 as a replacement for my Behringer UCA200 interface (UCA202 without the optical out), but I have a couple of questions. My current device can record from the line-in into my computer. Does the Aune have a link between the analogue input to the DAC, or does it just solely use the amp? If it does work, how's the sound quality? Thanks for any input (no pun intended).
   
  This would make an awesome value vinyl digitiser (as well as a much better DAC), because I have several records whose masters were not nearly as good on any CD pressing.


----------



## toschek

Single leg like the one in your picture.


----------



## joeq70

paspie said:


> Hi there, sorry if I seem a bit annoying 'cause this is my first post:
> 
> I'm considering an Aune T1 as a replacement for my Behringer UCA200 interface (UCA202 without the optical out), but I have a couple of questions. My current device can record from the line-in into my computer. Does the Aune have a link between the analogue input to the DAC, or does it just solely use the amp? If it does work, how's the sound quality? Thanks for any input (no pun intended).
> 
> This would make an awesome value vinyl digitiser (as well as a much better DAC), because I have several records whose masters were not nearly as good on any CD pressing.



You should read the FAQ in my first post as it'll probably answer your question. It sounds like you want to use a turntable and plug it into the T1 RCA input. This setup will simply let you use the T1 headphone amp. Can you go In then out of the T1? Nope it does't work like that.


----------



## toschek

To do line in to your PC from a turntable you're better off just sticking to your Behringer or something similar. The Aune is meant to provide an audiophile grade output for your PC or Mac to replace your soundcard. The line in on the Aune does not go through your computer, nor does it use the tube, it is simply meant to act as a line in to headphone out. 

You can route the line in of the Behringer to go out the DAC and tube on the Aune using something like Audacity or another DAW. That is how I am using my turntable now through a device chain like turntable > m-audio fast track ultra > Mac > Aune > headphones. It is not the perfect solution, but it works.


----------



## walfredo

Ok, people!!  I give up.  I can no longer resist.   I just ordered mine. 
   
  So, my ebay seller says:
   
*More detail:*
With headphones and speakers delay protection.
High quality component used:Japan ALPS potentiometer, German WIMA capacitors, ENLA audio capacitor, 
Headphone output gain adjustable.
6DJ8/6922 series or 12AU7 series exchangeable
   
  Can I really use a 12AU7 tube?  Can anyone confirm this?  (I have a couple of these around.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





paspie said:


> Hi there, sorry if I seem a bit annoying 'cause this is my first post:
> 
> I'm considering an Aune T1 as a replacement for my Behringer UCA200 interface (UCA202 without the optical out), but I have a couple of questions. My current device can record from the line-in into my computer. Does the Aune have a link between the analogue input to the DAC, or does it just solely use the amp? If it does work, how's the sound quality? Thanks for any input (no pun intended).
> 
> This would make an awesome value vinyl digitiser (as well as a much better DAC), because I have several records whose masters were not nearly as good on any CD pressing.


 
  I'm afraid the Aune T1 can't do the job. I'd recommend the same chain of equipment like toschek but then the superior mastering quality would be lost because of the computer's inferior ADC. I think what you need is a computer interface, not a DAC/Amp. Those things are quite expensive.


----------



## toschek

I wasn't aware that 12AU7s were compatible, they may be pin compatible but have different voltage or heater requirements. I would caution against trying them before contacting Aune directly to confirm they'd work. I haven't seen any official documentation that even mentions anything other than 6dj8s. 

I think the 12au7 is pin out type 9a and 6dj8 is 9aj. The 7308/cca is the best tube of this type as far as I am aware, I'd love to be wrong and have other options though.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





paspie said:


> Hi there, sorry if I seem a bit annoying 'cause this is my first post:
> 
> I'm considering an Aune T1 as a replacement for my Behringer UCA200 interface (UCA202 without the optical out), but I have a couple of questions. My current device can record from the line-in into my computer. Does the Aune have a link between the analogue input to the DAC, or does it just solely use the amp? If it does work, how's the sound quality? Thanks for any input (no pun intended).
> 
> This would make an awesome value vinyl digitiser (as well as a much better DAC), because I have several records whose masters were not nearly as good on any CD pressing.


 
  Sorry quoting you twice, but you might want something like this. ART USB Phono Plus.
   
  http://artproaudio.com/artcessories/turntable_preamps/product/usb_phono_plus-ps/
   
  The younger brother, ART Deejay Pre II received appraisals. This one should be better.


----------



## toschek

penmarker said:


> I'm afraid the Aune T1 can't do the job. I'd recommend the same chain of equipment like toschek but then the superior mastering quality would be lost because of the computer's inferior ADC. I think what you need is a computer interface, not a DAC/Amp. Those things are quite expensive.




Yes, they can be expensive. The fast track II didn't cost much though because I bought it used. It completely bypasses the computer's ADC but the way I have it setup. It isn't very elegant in my opinion, having to have many outboard devices makes for a lot of clutter. I can live with it though.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Single leg like the one in your picture.


 
  E:
   
  We did a little mistalk, I meant single leg support with DIMPLE DISC getter ( http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/jagster/sep2200.jpg ) (I have this one and it`s not called "bugle boy", it was made between bugle boys for short time and is real deal). The one toschek has is with D-getter like he showed me @ PS: http://cdn.head-fi.org/2/2e/2e433bf8_bbone.jpeg - this should be a real "bugle boy"  I just wanted to be sure he doesn`t mix up my tube with his bugle boy.
   
  Btw, here is a list of tubes that should fit for Aune T1: *6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 7DJ8, PCC88, 6N27P, E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8*
  Last two are basically same as PCC88 with littlebit higher heater voltage but should work flawless like my Tungsram PCC88.
   
  Just had little talk in RG forum with Mike:
   
   


> And about that PCC88 voltage... who cares if it takes long time to "poison" (if at all) and sounds great? From the link you gave:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  And about that different genres with different tubes I am still at same opinion. For example electronic music like ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sz82dyC-zHo ) vs. Metallica ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovBNnm4EqRE ) are just way too different for using same tube. You just can`t listen to Metallica for example with 6922EH properly because guitar riffs, percussion and vocal just get some sort of "lost" in that wide soundstage, aint so well identifiable and concrete. And with electronic music it is much more enjoyable to listen with airy/wide soundstage. You can listen to electronic music like I brought for example with narrower/foward sounded 6N23P but it sounds somewhat "dull".
  But well, it`s matter of taste. If someone is happy with using same tube for everything then it`s ok  I prefer 2 different tubes. Maybe even 3rd for classical but I don`t listen to it much.


----------



## Case

I get a few loud pops when I turn off my Aune T1.
   
Do you guys disconnect the headphones before turning it off? I get a feeling I should start doing that.


----------



## xplisit

Hey guys I ordered my Aune T1 and should be receiving it this week, I'm just curious does anyone know a good online source for NOS 6H23's (rocket logo), Also are there any other recommended tubes wouldn't mind trying a few


----------



## Paspie

Looks like I'll have to deal with a separate DAC and ADC then, if I am going to have a PC audio system that fulfills my requirements and my budget. Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll be looking into this in more depth in the future.


----------



## toschek

http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6N23P

Get an Amperex 7308 and you can stop there (go for the platinum grade cryo version,)

http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> E:
> 
> We did a little mistalk, I meant single leg support with DIMPLE DISC getter ( http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/jagster/sep2200.jpg ) (I have this one and it`s not called "bugle boy", it was made between bugle boys for short time and is real deal). The one toschek has is with D-getter like he showed me @ PS: http://cdn.head-fi.org/2/2e/2e433bf8_bbone.jpeg - this should be a real "bugle boy"  I just wanted to be sure he doesn`t mix up my tube with his bugle boy.
> 
> ...


 

 So, which one do you think is the best for classical?


----------



## xplisit

toschek said:


> http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6N23P




Was about to edit my post dunno how I missed it on first post.. prolly time for me to go to bed 4am here. Thanks anyway  will be ordering a few different tubes soon as I wake up.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> So, which one do you think is the best for classical?


 
  Hard to tell at the moment because I haven`t taken time to compare with classical music. Will try to take time for it and let you know.
   
  Quote: 





toschek said:


> http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6N23P
> 
> Get an Amperex 7308 and you can stop there (go for the platinum grade cryo version,)
> 
> http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html


 
  I wouldn`t give out such a bold suggestions. Yes, it is propably great tube but for someone who has not tried it before and has no comparsion what he gets for the money? And like I said, do you even know what kind of music that user listens? What budget he/she has? I am very sceptical about these kind of suggestions. I could also say for example that "my Amperex is the best!" but I know it isnt so. And there is always the matter of hearing things differently (we all do hear littlebit differently) + matter of taste.
  Also could you give more analytical comparsion between rocket logo 6N23P vs. 7308 with different genres like rock/metal and electronic?
  Or what else tubes you have? As I understood you have 8 of them. Can you post them here so if someone is interested in comparsion could ask from you?
   
  Quote: 





xplisit said:


> Hey guys I ordered my Aune T1 and should be receiving it this week, I'm just curious does anyone know a good online source for NOS 6H23's (rocket logo), Also are there any other recommended tubes wouldn't mind trying a few


 
  I can sell you my reflektor logo 6N23P which I got from Mike @ rockgrotto, if you are interested. It has little burn time and I just prefer other tube to it. Or if anyone else wants it, let me know. I paid 23£ shipped for it and will give it away for about 15£ + shipping or name your price and I`ll think about it.


----------



## CoiL

...


----------



## toschek

I've written up differences about 4 or 5 pages back, but when I get some free time (probably) Monday I will do a brief write up on each.

I realize the statement I made concerning the 7308 was a bit rash, but it is far above the othe tubes I've auditioned for the Aune. I tried the 6N23P, 6N23P-EB, 6211, 2 older amperex tubes, an E188CC and E288CC. Of all of these, the 7308 is the best (for me, subjectively) for all types of music. It handles whatever I throw at it from classical to dubstep to Indian ragas to hardcore with ease. 

I don't personally feel the need to switch tubes now. Again, this is subjective as everyone's tastes differ,( but I wish I had had the foresight to buy this single tube upgrade and saved myself a lot if time looking around online shops and reviews and sweating eBay auctions and instead just have been enjoying my music. I spent probably the equivalent amount of money or more trying the other seven tubes out that ultimately ended up in the sock drawer. I still feel this particular tube is the best varietal you can get for the Aune. 

If you're interested in a 7308 you'll want the Amperex if you like a warmish sound or the Telefunken/Siemens if you like the more neutral sound. Expect to pay $90+ no matter which you decide on.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> Update. Decided to try again 6922EH after keeping PCC88 in T1 for some time now. After listening Pantha Du Prince - Black Noise album (FLAC) ( example song - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_c4wWr8jKrU , great for detecting headroom/soundstage differences ) with Tungsram PCC88 and changing to 6922EH, I noticed clear difference in soundstage/headroom - 6922EH has littlebit more wider and towards to "large hall" soundstage with more "reverb/echo". Everything else I said before about 6922EH vs. Tungsram PCC88 stays same. But with 6922EH and Pantha Du Prince - I felt like "flowing in air" inside music. Once again I make a note - much depends also on the music you are listening to and your own taste. Between PCC88 vs. 6922EH in case of electronic music, I would say that if you are more bass&beat freak then go with Tungsram PCC88, if you want to "flow" inside music take 6922EH. Honestly I dont know anymore which one I prefer with electronic music. I guess with more typical club-beat-electronic music it will be PCC88.


 

 Interesting song. They compare it with Steve Reich...have to admit I don't know him as well as Glass or Nyman. It doesn't bring the feeling of "false" gradation I love, like Nyman's works http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6IdHq2y24Q or smoothness of Glass. But I might be interested in this kind of music. Feel free to post more songs. Even though my taste of music is not very usual, I'm trying to be open(very difficult for me, because i kinda hate most of modern pop and mainstream production). Thanks.


----------



## Grevlin

My OCD will finally allow me to order the T1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   
  Thinking about ordering from here tomorrow:
  http://www.aliexpress.com/item/FA035AA-AC-110V-BLACK-COLOR-Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Preamp-Audio-Decoder-6N11/695478897.html
   
   
  Anyone else order direct from China?


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> My OCD will finally allow me to order the T1
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Me. From this particular seller. Ordered 15.1, shipped via Fedex, estimated delivery 31.1 so a little bit slow. But don't have any idea how long it take to USA. Otherwise good communication with seller, very helpful.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Me. From this particular seller. Ordered 15.1, shipped via Fedex, estimated delivery 31.1 so a little bit slow. But don't have any idea how long it take to USA. Otherwise good communication with seller, very helpful.


 

 Thanks for the feedback.
   
  ...so you have 4 days left to wait. Good luck.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> i kinda hate most of modern pop and mainstream production).


 
  Me too. I`m very open to different kind of music and artists and because of that I have found a lot of great music. The more you open up your mind, the more you get in return! That goes not only for music!  That reminds me that I should finally start listening more classical music since now I have good equipment to do that.
   
  One more song for you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIqNx11Ykc0 Read the description for free legal download. FLAC also available.
   
  And about that earlier update... forgot to mention that I was listening with speakers not with HP`s. With headphones it`s the same opinion but to my ears 6922EH top-high`s are littlebit much so I prefer tungsram PCC88 with HD-681 mkII. I have very sensitive ears, it`s musicians thingy I guess. Could use harder filtering than mkII but that cuts off the spacious soundstage too much. Also, with Tungsram PCC88 bass is more enjoyable with HD-681mkII. Like I said, hard to choose between 6922EH or Tungsram PCC88 with electronic music, it all comes down to tiny differences and personal preferences.


----------



## tomatolicious

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Me. From this particular seller. Ordered 15.1, shipped via Fedex, estimated delivery 31.1 so a little bit slow. But don't have any idea how long it take to USA. Otherwise good communication with seller, very helpful.


 
   
  Same here. Got mine from this seller as well. Fast shipping to Germany within like four days, then two weeks of it idling in German customs 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Well worth the wait. Loving this little thing.


----------



## HolyCheese

Would it be possible to turn the light off? Can I safely remove the led or is there a switch? I can't sleep very well with a lit room. Even the light from my e10 bugs me. And I guess I can't cover the amp since it needs to dissipate the heat somehow.


----------



## CoiL

Why to order from china if you are at germany? If you order inside EU there is no customs. I ordered from this UK seller: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUNE-T1-24bit-96kHz-Tube-Amplifier-USB-DAC-6922-Upgraded-Headphone-Amp-/251164443176?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item3a7a914228
  no customs and straight to door post


----------



## Grevlin

Great pic tomatolicious. Thanks for the feedback as well. 


I'm pullin' the trigger tomorrow morning.


----------



## Grevlin

holycheese said:


> Would it be possible to turn the light off? Can I safely remove the led or is there a switch? I can't sleep very well with a lit room. Even the light from my e10 bugs me. And I guess I can't cover the amp since it needs to dissipate the heat somehow.




Switch it off?


----------



## tomatolicious

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> Would it be possible to turn the light off? Can I safely remove the led or is there a switch? I can't sleep very well with a lit room. Even the light from my e10 bugs me. And I guess I can't cover the amp since it needs to dissipate the heat somehow.


 
   
  I had been looking into this myself too. Sadly the light inside is a special kind of SMD diode with 4 pins. It won't be easy to unsolder it. There is no switch to turn it off. The light actually has a function, though. If you turn on the Aune it waits for the tube to warm up. Once everything is good to go the light turns on. The Aune does not play audio before the light is on. 
   
  Personally I planned to change it to a orange dimmed LED to enhance the tube glow a bit, but the special kind of LED they used makes it hard to find a replacement.


----------



## bcpk

Rock Grotto are selling the T1 for £130 + shipping with a free Mullard EC88. Has anyone used that tube?

http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=talk&thread=8496&post=126059


----------



## NinjaVampire

Quote: 





bcpk said:


> Rock Grotto are selling the T1 for £140 shipped with a free Mullard EC88. Has anyone used that tube?
> 
> http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=talk&thread=8496&post=126059


 
  Does that ship free to Ireland?


----------



## bcpk

ninjavampire said:


> Does that ship free to Ireland?




No, but - http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056698663


----------



## xplisit

Quote: 





toschek said:


> http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6N23P
> 
> Get an Amperex 7308 and you can stop there (go for the platinum grade cryo version,)
> 
> http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html


 
  I went with a Amperex 7308 set me back $142 ($54 delivery). Knowing me though I'll be purchasing new tubes every week just to test out lol.


----------



## Grevlin

xplisit said:


> I went with a Amperex 7308 set me back $142 ($54 delivery). Knowing me though I'll be purchasing new tubes every week just to test out lol.




$54 delivery !? Are you on the moon? ...or just want it tomorrow? Lol


----------



## joeq70

Alright guys, I finally got my hands on my Amperex 7308. This tube is the real deal no doubt about it. The first thing that stood out when I popped this tube in was man this thing sounds HOLOGRAPHIC. I've never heard anything have this much soundstage but still retain such smoothness. It's well balanced and dynamic with excellent details in the whole sound spectrum. The only question now is will I be able to save up money and start hoarding these babies.


----------



## Grevlin

joeq70 said:


> Alright guys, I finally got my hands on my Amperex 7308. This tube is the real deal no doubt about it. The first thing that stood out when I popped this tube in was man this thing sounds HOLOGRAPHIC. I've never heard anything have this much soundstage but still retain such smoothness. It's well balanced and dynamic with excellent details in the whole sound spectrum. The only question now is will I be able to save up money and start hoarding these babies.




Got a link?

Edit: never mind. Google is my friend.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





case said:


> I get a few loud pops when I turn off my Aune T1.
> 
> Do you guys disconnect the headphones before turning it off? I get a feeling I should start doing that.


 
  A popping sound is common. It's not necessary to disconnect your headphones,  though. Just turn the volume all the way down before you turn it off. You should always turn the volume off before turning audio equipment on and off.


----------



## xplisit

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> $54 delivery !? Are you on the moon? ...or just want it tomorrow? Lol


 
  That was the only option available


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Got a link?
> 
> Edit: never mind. Google is my friend.


 
  http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html


----------



## xplisit

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Alright guys, I finally got my hands on my Amperex 7308. This tube is the real deal no doubt about it. The first thing that stood out when I popped this tube in was man this thing sounds HOLOGRAPHIC. I've never heard anything have this much soundstage but still retain such smoothness. It's well balanced and dynamic with excellent details in the whole sound spectrum. The only question now is will I be able to save up money and start hoarding these babies.


 
  Good thing i decided to go with the Amperex 7308 might consider buying a few as backups just sucks that postage cost so much to AU almost as much as the tube itself.


----------



## NinjaVampire

So this little thing is good enough to use tubes worth almost as much as it (Amperex 7308)? I find it hard to imagine spending such money on tubes when you only spend 160 dollars on an amp. Would it not be more worthwhile to buy a better amp?


----------



## tomatolicious

Quote: 





ninjavampire said:


> So this little thing is good enough to use tubes worth almost as much as it (Amperex 7308)? I find it hard to imagine spending such money on tubes when you only spend 160 dollars on an amp. Would it not be more worthwhile to buy a better amp?


 
   
  I would say yes it is. The nice thing about the Aune T1 is that the tube is used for the DAC part of the device, so you can still hook it up to higher class amp if you wish. I think its a great introduction to tube rolling and makes it very noticeable how some tubes can actually change the sound.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Why to order from china if you are at germany? If you order inside EU there is no customs. I ordered from this UK seller: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUNE-T1-24bit-96kHz-Tube-Amplifier-USB-DAC-6922-Upgraded-Headphone-Amp-/251164443176?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item3a7a914228
> no customs and straight to door post


 
   
  I got mine from the same super friendly dealer (also because of the fear for customs). I "gambled" and ordered two pack of rocket logos here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-6N23P-E88CC-6DJ8-TUBES-NOS-NEW-USSR-MILITARY-FOR-AUDIO-AMP-PREAMP-VINTAGE-/170978975997?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item27cf2420fd They seem legit and the seller has 100% reputation. Probably not new (never used) but at least I get two for "the price of one".
   
  I'll most likely get the Amperex 7308 tube sooner or later, but first want to experiment with those rockets. With 7308 I don't want to gamble.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





bcpk said:


> Rock Grotto are selling the T1 for £130 + shipping with a free Mullard EC88. Has anyone used that tube?
> 
> http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=talk&thread=8496&post=126059


 
   
  Yeah . i've got one Mullard 6DJ8/ECC88 and it's my second favourite tube behind my Amperex 6922 PQ orange label US. I much prefer this than the 6N23P I puchased by rock-grotto too  .


----------



## toschek

joeq70 said:


> Alright guys, I finally got my hands on my Amperex 7308. This tube is the real deal no doubt about it. The first thing that stood out when I popped this tube in was man this thing sounds HOLOGRAPHIC. I've never heard anything have this much soundstage but still retain such smoothness. It's well balanced and dynamic with excellent details in the whole sound spectrum. The only question now is will I be able to save up money and start hoarding these babies.




I told ya man, that tube is a game changer. I just ordered another one for backup. Its not like they're making more. 

I want to try the Siemens or Telefunken Cca next, hopefully the tax man is generous this year. 

Grats on a fantastic tube.


----------



## CoiL

I`m also getiing Mullard ECC88 soon and prefer all my other tubes to that 6N23P (except Brimar which sux). Mike @ rockgrotto also says that ECC88 Mullard`s sound great with T1 and his favourite is the Mullard E88CC gold pin version. 
   
  About that Amperex 7308... for me it`s already too much money and I won`t know how it sounds or if I even like it before I get it. There are just too many tubes out there to say it`s the one to get and pay that money for it. But well, maybe I will buy it soon if some more ppl say it`s the best they have yet.
   
  At the beginning I was interested about Genalex Gold lion - does anyone have it and can compare it with 6922EH or 6N23P for example? Descriptions everywhere say it`s the best quality new tube out there. Again I`m quite sceptical about it and is it really worth the money?


----------



## toschek

ninjavampire said:


> So this little thing is good enough to use tubes worth almost as much as it (Amperex 7308)? I find it hard to imagine spending such money on tubes when you only spend 160 dollars on an amp. Would it not be more worthwhile to buy a better amp?




What's better for around $300 total and gives you that sweet 7308 sound?


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





coil said:


> I`m also getiing Mullard ECC88 soon and prefer all my other tubes to that 6N23P. Mike @ rockgrotto also says that ECC88 Mullard`s sound great with T1 and his favourite is the Mullard E88CC gold pin version.
> 
> About that Amperex 7308... for me it`s already too much money and I won`t know how it sounds or if I even like it before I get it. There are just too many tubes out there to say it`s the one to get and pay that money for it. But well, maybe I will buy it soon if some more ppl say it`s the best they have yet.
> 
> At the beginning I was interested about Genalex Gold lion - does anyone have it and can compare it with 6922EH or 6N23P for example? Descriptions everywhere say it`s the best quality new tube out there. Again I`m quite sceptical about it and is it really worth the money?


 
   
  I ompletely agree with you and have same question about genalex. 
   
  About 7308. I think I will find a used ( but tested in good condition) european E188CC/7308 in order to compare with my Amperex 6922.


----------



## bcpk

Thanks Sorrodje. Something to think about... would like to get more use out of my HE-400s at my PC and don't think a uDAC 2 is really cutting it.


----------



## Grevlin

Just ordered the T1
   





   
   
   
   
  Now for the wait...the terrible wait 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
   
   
  I'm considering getting a pair of AKG 702's very soon to pair up with the T1.


----------



## Sorrodje

Just ordered a NOS rtc E188CC... 75 more euros .. This business is mad , we're mad.


----------



## RMac

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Alright guys, I finally got my hands on my Amperex 7308. This tube is the real deal no doubt about it. The first thing that stood out when I popped this tube in was man this thing sounds HOLOGRAPHIC. I've never heard anything have this much soundstage but still retain such smoothness. It's well balanced and dynamic with excellent details in the whole sound spectrum. The only question now is will I be able to save up money and start hoarding these babies.


 
   
  Did you go for the platinum grade??
   
  edit:  cryo or no cryo?


----------



## joeq70

rmac said:


> Did you go for the platinum grade??
> 
> edit:  cryo or no cryo?



I went for platinum, no cryo.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> Me too. I`m very open to different kind of music and artists and because of that I have found a lot of great music. The more you open up your mind, the more you get in return! That goes not only for music!  That reminds me that I should finally start listening more classical music since now I have good equipment to do that.
> 
> One more song for you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIqNx11Ykc0 Read the description for free legal download. FLAC also available.


 

 Thanks. Sounds good.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Btw had anyone chance compare T1 to Hifiman EF5 or some Little Dot? I know it's kinda different story, but I'm still curious.


----------



## joeq70

Hey guys I'd like upate my impressions of the Amperex 7308. I did some more A/Bing with it and the Rocket Logo 6n23p and....I think I'm going to go ahead and stick with the Rocket Logo for a couple reasons. One is that the Rocket Logo has this strange aggressiveness in the vocals that I find addicting with my particular headphones.   Secondly, the price difference make it a much easier to have backups of the Rocket Logo on hand. My impressions of the 7308 that I posted earlier still stand. In fact, I think my taste in this respect combined with my choice in headphones puts me in a very, very small minority when it comes to these tubes. For those reasons, my impressions should be understood as extremely personal to my taste and that if a person were to ask me right now which tube they will like more, I would direct them to the Amperex 7308


----------



## CoiL

Bought one more tube - Mullard ECC88. Will share impressions after I get my Tesla PCC88.
   
  joeq70, if you have time, can you make more analytical comparsion against 6N23P and 6922EH (if you have it)?
  I`m interested in following differences: soundstage/headroom, instrument/detail separation, vocals, highs/mids/lows, more suitable for rock/metal/jazz or electronic music?


----------



## maurits

Quote: 





coil said:


> At the beginning I was interested about Genalex Gold lion - does anyone have it and can compare it with 6922EH or 6N23P for example? Descriptions everywhere say it`s the best quality new tube out there. Again I`m quite sceptical about it and is it really worth the money?


 
   
  Coil, I have a Genalex Gold Lion that now has had about 25 hours of playing time in the T1. It sounds great, but not earth shatteringly better compared to the stock tube.
   
  I am not at all qualified to do this, but I will try and do a comparison between the Gold Lion and the 6922EH this week. My best headphone is a V-Moda m-80 (which personally I really enjoy). So don't expect anything analytical.
   
  I will look into soundstage/headroom, instrument/detail separation, vocals, highs/mids/lows, more suitable for rock/metal/jazz or electronic music etc.
   
  Since I installed the Gold Lion, I have not listened to the 6922EH anymore. So I am kind of curious as well. My gut feeling is that the 6922EH is a pretty good tube that can stand its ground against many of the more exotic and rare tubes mentioned in this thread.


----------



## CoiL

I´m also thinking that overall 6922EH is great tube and can stand out to much more expensive ones or come close enough not to buy expensive one. Waiting eagerly for your comparsion and opinion if genalex is worth the extra money. Thanks for you trouble!


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





coil said:


> Bought one more tube - Mullard ECC88. Will share impressions after I get my Tesla PCC88.
> 
> joeq70, if you have time, can you make more analytical comparsion against 6N23P and 6922EH (if you have it)?
> I`m interested in following differences: soundstage/headroom, instrument/detail separation, vocals, highs/mids/lows, more suitable for rock/metal/jazz or electronic music?


 
  I actually do not have the 6922EH--sorry!


----------



## dcfis

Ok, y'all seem to be getting good results so I picked one up. It will take me a while but will give impressions. I have many nos tubes and will see. I don't see how a amperex 7308 can be warm but maybe it is in this application.


----------



## toschek

Has anyone tried any Cca tubes with the Aune yet?  
   
  I'm curious how some of the really high end tubes sound like the Telefunken diamond bottom, Cca or 6992, Siemens gray shield/silver shield Cca or Dario Miniwatt.   I guess impressions of any of these tubes outside of the Aune would be helpful too.
   
  I still like the 6N23P and I think it is a great tube.   The 7308 is better, but it is considerably more expensive, especially when you consider that you'll probably want to have a backup (or two) to last you a few years and in case of an accident.   If the extra $80 doesn't bother you though, it is worth considering.
   
  The differences I hear between the 7308 and the 6N23P in the categories you mention: 
   
  soundstage - 7308's soundstage is three dimensional in comparison to the 6N23P.   It broadens the soundstage vertically, horizontally and has much greater depth.   
   
  Headroom - Volume output is substantially cleaner and better from the 7308 vs. the 6N23P, but the 6N23P does have very good performance at low volumes.  
   
  vocals & instrumentation - vocal performances benefit from the soundstage and imaging qualities of the 7308, the main vocals are centered and backup vocalists will be placed in the mix appropriately without bleeding into one another.  Instrumentation has the same effect, everything is distinct and tack sharp.  The 6N23P does a good of this as well, but I feel like it lacks the multi-dimensionality and thus vocals feel flatter and have less of a "wow" factor.   Mids/Lows/Highs are all well defined, nothing is sacrificed here top to bottom with the 7308.  The 6N23P again does a good job here, but at the lower end of the mids and the lows I perceive some loss of articulation occassionally (again, this isn't bad, it's just noticeable if you go back to the tube after experiencing the 7308).   
   
  Genre Suitability - I feel like the 7308 can render any genre excellently, I listen to a very wide range of styles and I never feel like the 7308 has any shortcomings.   The 6N23P is very good for rock/metal IMO, but I am not as much into it for electronic, classical or acoustic music.


----------



## dcfis

I'm pretty sure I've got all those. Haven't cracked open the tube case in a while though


----------



## dcfis

Here is a perfect description by jahn on my personal favorite on my home setup.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/184032/amperex-orange-globe-6dj8s#post_2211131


----------



## bcpk

Well I bought the T1 from Rock Grotto with the free Mullard EC88. Hopefully I'll have it in about a week. Can't wait to use my HE-400s from my PC!


----------



## fcpchop88

hey sorry if this has already been mentioned, I've scrolled threw quite a few pages and didn't see it asked yet. How does the aune t1 compare to something like the schiit magni+modi stack. I have a pair of hd600s coming and I'm trying to decide how to drive them.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





fcpchop88 said:


> hey sorry if this has already been mentioned, I've scrolled threw quite a few pages and didn't see it asked yet. How does the aune t1 compare to something like the schiit magni+modi stack. I have a pair of hd600s coming and I'm trying to decide how to drive them.


 
   
  Quote: 





rmac said:


> Got my Aune T1 yesterday, so I will offer my very humble impressions vs. the Fiio E17 and the Schiit Magni & Modi stack.
> 
> Fiio E17 - offers the most value but the least performance.  Upside is that it is portable and has hardware EQ.
> The Schiit Magni and Modi - a touch too bright for my taste, and over resolving with some tracks.  Doesn't play well with my indie music.  The stack, while sexy looking, is sort of a hassle (I don't think I'm cut out for separate amps/dacs).
> ...


 
  Here you are, good sir.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Has anyone tried any Cca tubes with the Aune yet?
> 
> I'm curious how some of the really high end tubes sound like the Telefunken diamond bottom, Cca or 6992, Siemens gray shield/silver shield Cca or Dario Miniwatt.   I guess impressions of any of these tubes outside of the Aune would be helpful too.
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks for comparing! Actually, from your comments, that 7308 seems to sound a lot like the Amperex that I have. What are the other tubes you have? Interested in those too.


----------



## toschek

I have these as well, going to only do short capsule reviews because I really don't spend much time with them (nor do I want to).
   
  6N23P-EB (like the 6N23P but LOUDER, low end is tighter than the 6N23P but overall does not sound too good at lower listening levels).
  Amperex Bugle Boy (like the 7308 but a tad lower quality, somewhere between the 6N23P and the 7308 in terms of SQ, soundstage is closer to the 7308, maybe not as sharp overall?)
  Stock tube (piece of s**t).
   
  I'd like to try, or at least get descriptions from people who have tried:
   
  Siemens Gray Shield Cca (E88CC)
  Telefunken Cca (E88CC)
  Mullard CV2492
  Philips Miniwatt 7308


----------



## fcpchop88

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Here you are, good sir.


 

  thank you for the quick response. It seems from that user the T1 is hands down better. I guess I have some thinking to do. The idea of rolling tubes to get different sound signatures really appeals to me. It is very simple to do right?


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





fcpchop88 said:


> thank you for the quick response. It seems from that user the T1 is hands down better. I guess I have some thinking to do. The idea of rolling tubes to get different sound signatures really appeals to me. It is very simple to do right?


 
  No problem. It is very simple. when you get the T1 the tube won't be connected yet. You take the tube out of the box and plug it into the spot where the tube goes--just line up the pins and push.  When you want to switch tubes, make sure the T1 is turned off, then pull the old tube out of the socket and plug a new tube in.


----------



## rt310

I purchased the Aune T1 and has been pairing very nicely with my HD650s.
   
  I'm planning on purchasing the AKG K702s but i'm not sure about the synergy between the two.
  Has anyone heard this combo? Is it any good? I've heard that the K702s are very sensitive to amping.


----------



## toschek

Yeah, its very good with the K 702s. If you're looking at K 702s, look for the 65th anniversary edition. They cost more but they're more comfortable and have better mids and bass than the regular ones. They pair very nicely with the 6N23P or Amperex 7308 tubes. 

K 702 65s are my main headphones, they replaced Senn HD 650s.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





rt310 said:


> I purchased the Aune T1 and has been pairing very nicely with my HD650s.
> 
> I'm planning on purchasing the AKG K702s but i'm not sure about the synergy between the two.
> Has anyone heard this combo? Is it any good? I've heard that the K702s are very sensitive to amping.


 
   
  If you are interested about the K702 anniversary edition *Mad Lust Envy* just released great review in his gaming guide: http://www.head-fi.org/t/534479/mad-lust-envys-headphone-gaming-guide-updated-1-28-13-k702-65th-anni-ed-added Here you'll find some comparisons against other AKG K/Q models.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





rt310 said:


> I purchased the Aune T1 and has been pairing very nicely with my HD650s.
> 
> I'm planning on purchasing the AKG K702s but i'm not sure about the synergy between the two.
> Has anyone heard this combo? Is it any good? I've heard that the K702s are very sensitive to amping.


 
  As for the sensetive to amping, basically that means they reflect changes up the chain (like amp and DAC) a hell of a lot, so you hear all the components, an not like with my Denons, where most of the time you just hear them.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





toschek said:


> I have these as well, going to only do short capsule reviews because I really don't spend much time with them (nor do I want to).
> 
> 6N23P-EB (like the 6N23P but LOUDER, low end is tighter than the 6N23P but overall does not sound too good at lower listening levels).
> Amperex Bugle Boy (like the 7308 but a tad lower quality, somewhere between the 6N23P and the 7308 in terms of SQ, soundstage is closer to the 7308, maybe not as sharp overall?)
> ...


 
  Pitty that you and joeq70 don`t have the 6922EH, would be interested in your comparsion because it`s with the most spacious/airy sounding tube I have (Tungsram PCC88 comes very close). Waiting for user maurits comments about genalex gold lion vs. 6922EH.


----------



## Sorrodje

Unfortunately , I haven't spend more than 5 minutes with my 6922EH and it seems I've lost it


----------



## toschek

coil said:


> Pitty that you and joeq70 don`t have the 6922EH, would be interested in your comparsion because it`s with the most spacious/airy sounding tube I have (Tungsram PCC88 comes very close). Waiting for user maurits comments about genalex gold lion vs. 6922EH.




Is this the one here? http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/Electro-Harmonix-6922EH

For $15 I'll give it a go, but it will be a week or two. My wife bricked her macbook air with ginger ale so I probably have to pony up for a new one. Bonus points for her never backing it up and somehow that's my fault too.


----------



## maurits

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Is this the one here? http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/Electro-Harmonix-6922EH
> 
> For $15 I'll give it a go, but it will be a week or two. My wife bricked her macbook air with ginger ale so I probably have to pony up for a new one. Bonus points for her never backing it up and somehow that's my fault too.


 
   
  Right, that is the one that came with my T1. There is also a gold pin version.

 How unfair yet entirely recognizable!


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Is this the one here? http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/Electro-Harmonix-6922EH
> 
> For $15 I'll give it a go, but it will be a week or two. My wife bricked her macbook air with ginger ale so I probably have to pony up for a new one. Bonus points for her never backing it up and somehow that's my fault too.


 
  Yes thats the tube. I ordered my T1 with it. Read my earlier comments about Tungsram PCC88 vs. 6922EH before you buy that 6922EH, you might like Tungsram PCC88 more.


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





coil said:


> Pitty that you and joeq70 don`t have the 6922EH, would be interested in your comparsion because it`s with the most spacious/airy sounding tube I have (Tungsram PCC88 comes very close). Waiting for user maurits comments about genalex gold lion vs. 6922EH.


 
  err, I actually made a mini comparison between them about a week back... if that helps...


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Is this the one here? http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/Electro-Harmonix-6922EH
> 
> For $15 I'll give it a go, but it will be a week or two. My wife bricked her macbook air with ginger ale so I probably have to pony up for a new one. Bonus points for her never backing it up and somehow that's my fault too.


 
  *Giggle* does she need cranberry juice?
  Quote: 





dcfis said:


> Ok, y'all seem to be getting good results so I picked one up. It will take me a while but will give impressions. I have many nos tubes and will see. I don't see how a amperex 7308 can be warm but maybe it is in this application.


 
  I cannot wait for your impressions with them all


----------



## CoiL

Thanks icecap ! Didn`t notice that mini-review. I agree - 6922EH is great for pop and maybe even with poprock but with hard rock/metal/trash/jazz it has too wide&airy soundstage IMO. Seems that genalex is maybe even worth of trying. Lets wait and hear what maurits has to say aboiut genalex vs. 6922EH. Maybe it will be my last tube for T1 since i`m already happy with Tungsram PCC88 / 6922EH / Amperex ECC88 and 2 more tubes coming in soon 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  E:
   
  Got my Tesla PCC88, same as shown and described here: http://jda1951.xanga.com/770095693/tesla-pcc88/
  Had it inside T1 only like 10min, so can`t give accurate feedback atm but it`s pretty much like it says on the link above:
   


> [size=medium]Bass is solid but never draws undue attention to itself.[/size]
> [size=medium]Midrange is clear if a little lean making dialogue easy to understand.[/size]
> [size=medium]Detail is excellent with a crisp transient response.[/size]
> [size=medium]Upper treble is extended and airy.[/size]
> ...


 
   
  First impressions say that it`s maybe littlebit leaned into bright side, top-end treble is very sparkly and bright but airy. Soundstage is wide and airy but is pushed littlebit to foward and slightly more narrow/centre-weighted, also vertical soundstage is narrow, compared to 6922EH and Tungsram PCC88. It seems to be good tube and maybe better for classical music but I personally prefer 6922EH and Tungsram PCC88 to it. Will take longer listening session when I get my Mullard ECC88 and give more analytical impressions.


----------



## HolyCheese

What is the output impedance on these? I think I might have to skip this one since *i think* my fidelio x1 doesn't pair well with high impedance amps.


----------



## CoiL

> Suitable headphone Impedance : 30ohm~600ohm
> Headphone Amp output : (biggest is 20V) 32ohm--1000MW ,120ohm--400MW ,300ohm--150MW
> Line out insider impedance : 100ohm
> Headphone amp insider impedance :10ohm


 
  There should not be any problems driving Fidelio X1`s.


----------



## HolyCheese

Does that 10 ohm value mean the actual output impedance is also 10 ohms? If that is the case this might be a bad choice for my X1. I notice significant difference when using a 0.2 Ohm cable on my X1 instead of the 1.7 Ohm cable that came with them. So I guess that could only mean upgrading to the T1 would worsen the situation for me. The only way to find out would be by testing some different gear, but I don't have the opportunity right now.


----------



## tomatolicious

Some impressions on what I rolled through the Aune T1 so far:
   

*SIEMENS E88CC - German Military (BWB) Selected Stock*
_Gold pins, Halo Getter_
   
  I read a lot about these Siemens tubes. A lot of people seem to be very fond of it. To my surprise it turned out to be my least favorite one so far. It does not sound much like an improvement over the stock 6922EH that came with the Aune. Since this came from a sealed NOS stock - maybe it needs burning in? Maybe I got the wrong version? Maybe my ears are just not good enough? Right now it sounds a bit muddy and dull, while a bit warmer than the 6922EH. I will get back to this again in a few weeks and give this some burn in.
   
   

*Telefunken E88CC*
_Gold pins, Halo getter_
   
  Unlike with the Siemens above, I got exactly what I expected from the hype around this tube. Clear soundstage and a very open and rich sound. With my HE-400 it may already be a bit too bright for my taste.
   
   

*PHILIPS MINIWATT E88CC SQ SPECIAL QUALITY*
_Gold pins, Halo getter. While the label claims "Made in Holland" it was actually made by Mullard in their Mitcham military factory in the UK._
   
   
  By far my favorite tube to go with the Aune. It is almost as clear as the Telefunken but just a slight bit warmer, smoother. Vocals sound more pronounced. Highs and lows are slightly rolled off and not as sharp as on the Telefunken. Maybe too much for some - but perfect for me and my HE-400. I love this tube and it is what I use for listening most of the time now.
   
  I found this one locally for a laughable price of €5. Looking to get some backup stock on eBay it turns out that it is apparently one of the most sought after Mullard tubes made. eBay prices seem to reach up to well over $150-200. Well damn. I am almost too afraid to "use it up" now. I hope I can find some more.
   
   

*AEG E88CC - German Military (BWB) Selected Stock*
_Gold pins, Dimpled plate getter. AEG label, made by Mullard in the UK._
_ _
  Another tube I got from the same German military stock where I got the Siemens from. As it turns out it was also made by Mullard in the same factory as my Philips Miniwatt above. As a result it sounds almost exactly the same with slightly more clouded instrument separation and overall a bit less smooth. This probably needs some burn in. I will get back to it later.
   
   
  In summary - I seem to be very fond of the British Mullard sound. I will try to get my hands on some more Mullard tubes to see how they compare, but so far they are my clear favorites.


----------



## CoiL

Thanks for info tomatolicious! Damn, I´m pissed off atm that I didn`t buy another 69´ Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 dimple disc single leg tube!  -.- They are freaking rare and sound just fantastic with metal/rock! I have never enjoyed Marylin Manson like this before! If someone doesn`t like that tube, I`m willing to buy it from him/her! Well, I hope that Mullard will sound close to it or better because its more widely available.


----------



## toschek

I believe output impedance is 10 ohm. I'm on my phone so it's not easy to check right now.


----------



## NinjaVampire

Hi guys, if you buy the Aune T1 and it comes with the wrong plug, do you need a new transformer or just a region plug?


----------



## CoiL

Mine had UK plug + adapter for EU plug. Also I got better thicker and shorter black USB cable with golden tips. Depends on distributor. 
   


grevlin said:


> What the hey...I bought it.
> 
> My first tube.


 
  If you don`t like that Amperex, let me know, will buy it from you!


----------



## toschek

coil said:


> Thanks for info tomatolicious! Damn, I´m pissed off atm that I didn`t buy another 69´ Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 dimple disc single leg tube!  -.- They are freaking rare and sound just fantastic with metal/rock! I have never enjoyed Marylin Manson like this before! If someone doesn`t like that tube, I`m willing to buy it from him/her! Well, I hope that Mullard will sound close to it or better because its more widely available.




Did the one I sent you a picture of look like the same thing? If you want to buy it send me a pm.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> Mine had UK plug + adapter for EU plug. Also I got better thicker and shorter black USB cable with golden tips. Depends on distributor.
> 
> If you don`t like that Amperex, let me know, will buy it from you!


 

 Noted.
   
  My intention is to get around...8 to 10 different tubes as a sort of sample group. I'm going to rotate, listen, and hear what I hear.
   
  My thought is that I will probably find 2 or 3 that I lean towards, and then I'll try and stock some more of those. 
   
  It may be a while, but if does ever need to be sold - you'll be first to know.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Did the one I sent you a picture of look like the same thing? If you want to buy it send me a pm.


 
  Like I told you before, we don`t have same tubes, yours has D shaped getter, mine has large dimple disc getter. Thanks for offering though  
   
  Grevlin, better hope that this dimple disc amperex isn`t one of your favs to back up because it`s VERY hard to find these, unfortunately. And seems I´m not only one searching for these: http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/t.mpl?f=tubes&m=243977


----------



## Roger de Ceiba

Quote: 





toschek said:


> http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6N23P
> 
> Get an Amperex 7308 and you can stop there (go for the platinum grade cryo version,)
> 
> http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html


 

 Is there any significant difference between the platinum grade as opposed to the gold one?


----------



## toschek

Yeah, the Platinum one tests higher on their tube tester. Cryo treating subjects the tube to extreme cold which may increase its longevity since the internal components have been pre-stressed.


----------



## dcfis

I doubt it in this application. add a pie gain it would be necessary. In this case if I'm not mistaken its used as an output buffer like in my home audio tube dac.


----------



## dcfis

As a gain tube. Should be the start of the second sentence. Darn auto correct


----------



## Enuma-elis

My Aune just came. They send it with 6922EH even it meant to be 6N11 so I have a good start for tube rolling. There is no wall plug(don't know how can I call it, even in my language)...that thing you stick into the wall. Need to wait till tomorrow, cause all shops are closed now... But I¨m really glad for 6922.


----------



## toschek

It didn't have a power supply?   That is very weird.   It should be an outboard transformer with a 5 pin plug to go into the back of the T1 and a plug to go to the wall outlet.  I would write the place you bought from immediately.
   
  Good luck.


----------



## dcfis

It didn't come with a power supply?


----------



## dcfis

Has anyone thought of a battery supply for the Aune? Is it worth messing with?


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





toschek said:


> It didn't have a power supply?   That is very weird.   It should be an outboard transformer with a 5 pin plug to go into the back of the T1 and a plug to go to the wall outlet.  I would write the place you bought from immediately.
> 
> Good luck.


 
  No it has power supply, but it has only US plug, nor EU, so I need to buy one for about $2 by myself. The transformer is bigger and even heavier than aune. Only one thing annoys me...something is moving inside transformer if I shake with it a little.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> It didn't come with a power supply?


 







My bad english caused a little hype. But I was really trying to explain that.


----------



## Enuma-elis

So far I can't judge the sound, but the constructions is...wow. I expected it to be good, but it's more than that. Elegant is the word I guess.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> ...something is moving inside transformer if I shake with it a little.


 
  Thats not good ;( My Aune T1 and PSU is rock solid from everywhere when i shake it. Maybe you should return it under warranty?
  From where did you order it?


----------



## smokey197

This is probably a very stupid question, but I'm still a bit of a noob when it comes to these things. I'm planning on purchasing the Aune T1 very soon as an upgrade over the Ibasso D4 I've been using to power my Ultrasone pro 900's for over a year. At the same time, I'm planning on purchasing a stereo system. Does the T1 function as a preamp through the rca outs? Or is it a fixed line out like my D4 Mamba? Thanks.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> My Aune just came. They send it with 6922EH even it meant to be 6N11 so I have a good start for tube rolling. There is no wall plug(don't know how can I call it, even in my language)...that thing you stick into the wall. Need to wait till tomorrow, cause all shops are closed now... But I¨m really glad for 6922.


 
   
  Yeah I just got mine also. Mine came with EU adapter, but that adapter is very bad chinese quality and doesn't fit our plugs. Unfortunately the transducer is located between two relatively short cords which complicates the placing of the product. The cord can be removed from the amp but not from the transducer so it's not easy to replace the power cord. The actual amp sounds nice but I'm positive that I need more tubes than the stock 6922EH. The 6922 sounds a bit too intimate and close for me so I definitely need a clearer and wider sounding tube. Especially the vocals could be clearer (I use treble +2db with my E17). The bass is better with T1/6922. Altogether the T1 seems to be more engaging and somewhat better sounding. Need to A/B more to give better analysis about the sound vs. E17. Been testing the gain settings and it seems that I can drive my K702 even with the 0 gain (not sure but the sound seems to be best with 0 gain). Also the volume knob is very nice. There is definitely potential in T1 and for 160 euros this is a recommended buy. I might, however, want to hang on to my E17 for a while before I find the right tube(s) for me. E17 has its advantages. It is portable, cheap, doesn't need time to warm up, can be turned off without turning volume to 0, has internal EQ and is USB powered. With this tube and all other things considered I'd say these are equally good products. I'm sure, however, that when I find the right tube the T1 clearly outperforms the E17. Rocket logo is on the way and is going to be my next tube to test.


----------



## Enuma-elis

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/FA035BB-AC-220V-SILVER-COLOR-Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Preamp-Audio-Decoder-6N11/695543397.html I will write them whether It's bad or not, and tomorrow will try it.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Yeah I just got mine also. Mine came with EU adapter, but that adapter is very bad chinese quality and doesn't fit our plugs. Unfortunately the transducer is located between two relatively short cords which complicates the placing of the product. The cord can be removed from the amp but not from the transducer so it's not easy to replace the power cord. The actual amp sounds nice but I'm positive that I need more tubes than the stock 6922EH. The 6922 sounds a bit too intimate and close for me so I definitely need a clearer and wider sounding tube. Especially the vocals could be clearer (I use treble +2db with my E17). The bass is better with T1/6922. Altogether the T1 seems to be more engaging and somewhat better sounding. Need to A/B more to give better analysis about the sound vs. E17. Been testing the gain settings and it seems that I can drive my K702 even with the 0 gain (not sure but the sound seems to be best with 0 gain). Also the volume knob is very nice. There is definitely potential in T1 and for 160 euros this is a recommended buy. I might, however, want to hang on to my E17 for a while before I find the right tube(s) for me. E17 has its advantages. It is portable, cheap, doesn't need time to warm up, can be turned off without turning volume to 0, has internal EQ and is USB powered. With this tube and all other things considered I'd say these are equally good products. I'm sure, however, that when I find the right tube the T1 clearly outperforms the E17. Rocket logo is on the way and is going to be my next tube to test.


 

 Can you post a picture how does it look like?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Can you post a picture how does it look like?


 
   
  The transducer and the power cord? Or the adapter?


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> The transducer and the power cord? Or the adapter?


 

 The adapter.


----------



## joeq70

smokey197 said:


> This is probably a very stupid question, but I'm still a bit of a noob when it comes to these things. I'm planning on purchasing the Aune T1 very soon as an upgrade over the Ibasso D4 I've been using to power my Ultrasone pro 900's for over a year. At the same time, I'm planning on purchasing a stereo system. Does the T1 function as a preamp through the rca outs? Or is it a fixed line out like my D4 Mamba? Thanks.




The T1 will work in a stereo system perfectly as long as you set it up as such:

T1 USB as source-->Speaker Amp/Receiver via T1 RCA Out-->Stereo speakers

Look at the FAQ on first page for further explanation.


----------



## smokey197

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> The T1 will work in a stereo system perfectly as long as you set it up as such:
> 
> T1 USB as source-->Speaker Amp/Receiver via T1 RCA Out-->Stereo speakers
> 
> Look at the FAQ on first page for further explanation.


 
   

 Ok, so my T1 will function as a preamp when connected through rca out to my power amp for my bookshelf speakers? Excellent. That is all I needed to know.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> The adapter.


 
   

   
   
  And this is the socket we have:


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> And this is the socket we have:


 

 Yep, looks similar to ours(socket). Why don't you just buy a new adapter instead of changing whole power cord?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> ...6922 sounds a bit too intimate and close for me so I definitely need a clearer and wider sounding tube. Especially the vocals could be clearer (I use treble +2db with my E17).


 
  Too intimate? What do you mean by it? With 6922EH it already is very wide & spacious sounding. Too close and unclear? I think by clearer tube you mean that you need more foward & narrower sounding tube because if you take even more wider-sounding tube, vocals will get even more "lost" imho. Rocket logo 6N23P should be more narrow & foward sounding tube than 6922EH. At least reflector logo 6N23P certainly is and when to read internet reviews, rocket one also. But well, ppl hear things differently and maybe its also about K702 paired with Aune T1.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Yep, looks similar to ours(socket). Why don't you just buy a new adapter instead of changing whole power cord?


 
   
  I already bought one, but it makes the whole plug very bulky and takes almost 2 sockets out of my extension cord. I would prefer to replace the cord. The cord from aune to transducer is only just and just long enough to reach the floor from my table. In many cases there is a cord from product to transducer and from transducer to wall plug.


----------



## CoiL

Even thread starter says following:



joeq70 said:


> *Russian 6n23p Rocket logo*
> This tube is intimacy to the max. Warm, but not muddy. Forward sounding. Output volume seems higher than the other tubes I’ve tried. Very musical and engaging tube. It’s a fun listen for sure but it comes at the cost of some soundstage. Has a very punchy midbass but doesn’t have as much presence in the lowest bass notes. Has a kind of addictive tube sound.
> Purchased here: http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6N23P


 

   
  I think you bought worng tube if you want even more wider sounding than 6922EH. 
   
  E: Btw, if you change the cord then don`t forget to change it to one that has FUSE because that UK plug has it!
  That remainds me* - IMPORTANT! - UK plug fuse should be changed to something between 0,5A - 3A fuse* because in stock it comes with 13A fuse which is way too much!
  http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=talk&thread=8297&page=15#125152


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Too intimate? What do you mean by it? With 6922EH it already is very wide & spacious sounding. Too close and unclear? I think by clearer tube you mean that you need more foward & narrower sounding tube because if you take even more wider-sounding tube, vocals will get even more "lost" imho. Rocket logo 6N23P should be more narrow & foward sounding tube than 6922EH. At least reflector logo 6N23P certainly is and when to read internet reviews, rocket one also. But well, ppl hear things differently and maybe its also about K702 paired with Aune T1.


 
   
  Just comparing to E17. Thats the best I can describe it, but basically with E17 treble +2db the vocals feel clearer and there seems to be more space between the singer and me. But like I said this was only first impression after listening about an hour or two. 6922 sounds great but I'm pretty sure I can find better tube for my taste.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Even thread starter says following:
> 
> 
> 
> I think you bought worng tube if you want even more wider sounding than 6922EH.


 
   
  This is because of a personal recommendation from other forumist with K702 annies. The price was 8 dollars for 2 tube + delivery, so I guess its not the end of the world if I don't like the rocket.


----------



## CoiL

That`s what I like about cheaper tubes - if you don`t like it, just get another one to try. Imagine that you buy a expensive tube (lets say about 70-80$) and then figure out that you don`t like it - not a great feeling ;D 
   
  Haven`t tried K702 with Aune T1 but something tells me that its about those cans paired with T1 that won`t make so spacious & airy soundstage as you want.
  With HD-681 mkII + 6922EH its freakingly wide, spacious & airy - in a good way that vocals won`t get too distant.
   
  E:
   
   



> Originally Posted by *CoiL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> E: Btw, if you change the cord then don`t forget to change it to one that has FUSE because that UK plug has it!
> That remainds me* - IMPORTANT! - UK plug fuse should be changed to something between 0,5A - 3A fuse* because in stock it comes with 13A fuse which is way too much!
> http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=talk&thread=8297&page=15#125152


 
  That should be also in the first post of the thread! Please update it!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Haven`t tried K702 with Aune T1 but something tells me that its about those cans paired with T1 that won`t make spacious & airy soundstage. With HD-681 mkII + 6922EH its freakingly wide, spacious & airy - in a good way that vocals won`t get too distant.


 
   
  I think you might very well be right here. Especially because the anniversary editions have memory foam ear pads that allow the drivers to be even closer to your ear. And again don't get me wrong about the sound quality of the 6922. These are just first impressions and coming from E17 with my own EQ settings I just need to get used to the sound first. I think I prefer vocals with E17 and bass / overall tone with T1/6922. If only I could find a tube that combines the best from these both. That would make me a happy man.


----------



## jiggahwhat

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/FA035BB-AC-220V-SILVER-COLOR-Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Preamp-Audio-Decoder-6N11/695543397.html I will write them whether It's bad or not, and tomorrow will try it.


 
   
  Seems like an extraordinarily low price. Is this legitimate?


----------



## CoiL

This is seriously low price - bit over half of what I paid for (88€ vs. 169€). Also, that PSU problem? Seriously, Enuma-elis, are you sure you didn`t get ripped off? 
  Take a look at my pictures @ rockgrotto and see if everything looks same? -> http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=talk&thread=8297&page=15#125213
   
  Also if you can manage to take a look inside T1 without noticeable damage, do it, just to be sure you aren`t being ripped off with fake product.


----------



## Grevlin

I ordered from that exact seller on Monday. -- Its direct from China.
   
  Its through Alibaba, they are a third party and don't give the seller the payment until I sign off on the delivery.
   
  I still have not gotten shipping notification but it should be anytime now.


----------



## CoiL

Is there a way you could find out the original seller and if its legitimate official reseller? Not familiar with alibaba. The only way to make sure its fully correct product would be to open it and check the components. If one of you has the gut to do it would be really appreciated! If its real deal, lot of ppl going to save lot of money.


----------



## jiggahwhat

There's something awfully precarious about Chinese sellers


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





jiggahwhat said:


> There's something awfully precarious about Chinese sellers


 

 The T1 is a Chinese product...
   
  ?


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> Is there a way you could find out the original seller and if its legitimate official reseller? Not familiar with alibaba. The only way to make sure its fully correct product would be to open it and check the components. If one of you has the gut to do it would be really appreciated! If its real deal, lot of ppl going to save lot of money.


 

 Alibaba is a sales broker.
   
  They are between seller and buyer. They take payment, but don't release it until I tell them I received and I'm happy with product. Also, if the seller does not ship in the next 24 hours, Alibaba will cancel the transaction and put the cash back into my account.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> This is seriously low price - bit over half of what I paid for (88€ vs. 169€). Also, that PSU problem? Seriously, Enuma-elis, are you sure you didn`t get ripped off?
> Take a look at my pictures @ rockgrotto and see if everything looks same? -> http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=talk&thread=8297&page=15#125213
> 
> Also if you can manage to take a look inside T1 without noticeable damage, do it, just to be sure you aren`t being ripped off with fake product.


 
  Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's the same. Don't have a screwdriver to look inside, cause I'm at my college but from outside...that is it. Badly the seller not comprehended my question about transformer(my bad english plus their maybe even worse equals a little bit misunderstanding). Will buy an adapter and try it later, hopefully it will work.


----------



## Enuma-elis

OK, after spending 4 hours in local shops, I finally came to something that could be used as an adapter. Aune is working (will look inside transducer at home) but I've got only px360 with me now, so I can't hear all the differences. So far it's smooth, clean, and the voices are very good pronounced. By the way, the adapter is 16A, do you think it's better to get something different?


----------



## HolyCheese

Lol make sure you don't plug a 110V adapter in a 220 socket  **** might go boom.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> Lol make sure you don't plug a 110V adapter in a 220 socket  **** might go boom.


 

 I'm not very dexterous, but I'm not so stupid. And I don't want to go boom. A new evolution rule...people who don't recognize 110V from 220V and "go boom" with their devices. Rather do boom boom on the toilet.


----------



## Grevlin

Got notification that it shipped.
   
  Will arrive next Tuesday. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
  Edit: Wednesday now.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> I'm not very dexterous, but I'm not so stupid. And I don't want to go boom. A new evolution rule...people who don't recognize 110V from 220V and "go boom" with their devices. Rather do boom boom on the toilet.


 
  Big Bang Theory!


----------



## CoiL

Joeq70, please ad this to first post:
  Quote: 





> If you change the cord or adapter then don`t forget to change it to one that has FUSE in it!
> *IMPORTANT! - UK plug fuse should be changed to something between 0,5A - 3A fuse* because in stock it comes with 13A fuse which is way too much!
> http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=talk&thread=8297&page=15#125152


----------



## WiR3D

mmmmm I'm thinking can't you take some orange translucent plastic sheets (that crap kids play with) and cut a small piece, then place it over the diode.
   
  The problem becomes heating it so that it will melt (ever so slightly) and cover the diode. (Hair dryer usually, but probably wont work now)


----------



## icecap

My household sockets are all using UK type.. may I know what is difference and benefits of changing the fuse to a lower ampere ratings? I don't quite get it from RG forums saying T1 will be fried before the fuse? 13A has been almost the standard for all our appliances here.. someone enlighten me please?


----------



## CoiL

13A is just too much. In case of electrical failure you will propably damage T1 [size=x-small]transformer[/size] before fuse will blow. 
   
   


> 30VA toroidal normally specifies a 0.5A fuse


 
  I don`t know if Aune T1 transformer has fuse inside it or not but just for precaution I would change mains plug fuse.
 [size=1.4em] Quote:


> [size=1.4em] *The common UK plug* – Is generally fitted with a 3A or 13A fuse. For appliances up to 700w you need to use a 3A fuse. And for appliances over 700w you need to use a 13A fuse. [/size]
> 
> [size=1.4em] Here are some common examples: [/size]
> 
> ...


 [/size]
 [size=1.4em]  [/size]


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





icecap said:


> My household sockets are all using UK type.. may I know what is difference and benefits of changing the fuse to a lower ampere ratings? I don't quite get it from RG forums saying T1 will be fried before the fuse? 13A has been almost the standard for all our appliances here.. someone enlighten me please?


 
  I don't get it, the device pulls as much current as it needs (provided its there to be pulled.)  You don't force feed your DAC/amps with power like the KFC chicken.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





coil said:


> 13A is just too much. In case of electrical failure you will propably damage T1 [size=x-small]transformer[/size] before fuse will blow.


 
  To me it sounds like if you plug a cellphone charger into a 13A supply it will explode spontaneously - Yet I did it. No flames. and it was a 13A supply I assure you. I melted the unit being a dipstick with an industrial heater, and the fuse was perfect.


----------



## CoiL

Seems you don`t get it. This fuse will protect against electrical failure (surge, short). Aune T1 power draw (30VA transformer) has nothing to do with it.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





wir3d said:


> I don't get it, the device pulls as much current as it needs (provided its there to be pulled.)  You don't force feed your DAC/amps with power like the KFC chicken.


 

 I thought so. But I've got a little scared when I've read about all the frying and booming. Now I'm looking suspiciously on my Aune, all the time I watch it with my lazy eye, waiting for some booming, exploding and blowing up, unable to fully enjoy the music.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





coil said:


> Seems you don`t get it. This fuse will protect against electrical failure (surge, short). Aune T1 power draw (30VA transformer) has nothing to do with it.


 
  Ah, that I do get - it was just explained badly. I doubt that even a 3A fuse will sufficiently protect it. 
   
  We get power cuts and black outs here A LOT - at one stage a minimum of twice a week because our sole Electricity provider is corrupt and broke as balls. Nothings changed.
   
  Lost a PC and a number of appliances to brown outs and black outs. the brown outs being the worst, because it almost inevitably is followed by a surge. 
   
  Surge protectors help, but not much. Even the $1000 ones. So I say screw it, live with it, and have household insurance.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> Seems you don`t get it. This fuse will protect against electrical failure (surge, short). Aune T1 power draw (30VA transformer) has nothing to do with it.


 

 That's not gonna happen...hopefully...maybe...surely not. I'm scared again.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





wir3d said:


> Ah, that I do get - it was just explained badly. I doubt that even a 3A fuse will sufficiently protect it.
> 
> We get power cuts and black outs here A LOT - at one stage a minimum of twice a week because our sole Electricity provider is corrupt and broke as balls. Nothings changed.
> 
> ...


 
  Now you get what I meant  Yeah I know that in many cases surge protectors won`t help but this little change in mains plug is easy and cheap to do. At least there is a better chance Aune T1 and its transformer surviving in case of surge/short/overload. 
  So, still I recommend to change that fuse for 0.5-3A. I wanted to have 0.5A but its hard to get it here in Estonia, we have different fuses and sockets/plugs. I could only find 3A slow-blow fuse that fits in that mains plug fuse socket. But it will do ok I hope.


----------



## icecap

Thanks for the explanation! Still I am gonna skip it.. No mods for me without any sonic gain and voiding the warranty.. Hah.. And I have never ever experienced appliances damage from surge or shorts before.. My circuit breaker will always trip first! So I guess my plug remains!


----------



## CoiL

If you feel safe then it`s ok. But I doubt that opening mains plug and changing fuse for correct one will void the warranty. In case something happens it`s easy to change it back. Just 1 screw to open the plug, it`s no-brainer.


----------



## Sorrodje

Well My E188CC came today .. i've now :
   
  - 6N23p-Eb Reflektor (20€)
  - 6N27p reflektor (15€)
  - 6DJ8 Mullard  (30€)
  - 6922 Amperew PQ Orange label (US) (45€)
  - E188CC/7308 'La Radiotechnique" from 60s ( 75€)
   
  I spent more € in tubes than for the T1 ... stupid business


----------



## CoiL

Share some comparions and impressions! Aune T1 should have warning - money-sucking-black-box! ;D


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> Well My E188CC came today .. i've now :
> 
> - 6N23p-Eb Reflektor (20€)
> - 6N27p reflektor (15€)
> ...


 
   
  Well, there are actually many things that are similar.
   
  For example:
   
  Buy a gun for $600 and spend $1000 in ammo in the first year of shooting...
   
  Buy a little rotary toothbrush for $10 and burn through $40 in batteries in a year...
   
  on and on
   
  While it may seem odd, each half of the equation is equally important.
   
   
  - Like a rocket and it's rocket launcher.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





coil said:


> Share some comparions and impressions! Aune T1 should have warning - money-sucking-black-box! ;D


 






 LOL ! 
   
  I will share in few days or weeks when i will have enough time with each  . I have three headphones and it seems some tubes works better with one or another . For example my 6N23P-EB is awful with he400 while Amperex or Mullard are far better . I think I prefer the Mullard 6DJ8 with my Sig pro . more than Amperex .. but I'm not sure.  I need more time to make my opinion.  But differences are not huge even with stock 6922EH tube.  Aune T1 definitely sound well in its stock state in my opinion. Upgrading tubes is a luxurious (but real) pleasure . i'm really sad tu lose this 6922EH . I can't include it in my comparison now.


----------



## CoiL

What happened with your 6922EH? Since most ppl buy T1 with it, it`s a good comparsion point. Also, the difference between 6922EH vs. 6N23P is quite large, they have very different soundstage imho.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





coil said:


> What happened with your 6922EH? Since most ppl buy T1 with it, it`s a good comparsion point. Also, the difference between 6922EH vs. 6N23P is quite large, they have very different soundstage imho.


 
   
  I think I forgot it in the box I used to send a can (Koss DJ100) I sold recently . The happy buyer get a can and the tube as a gift.


----------



## CoiL

Hehe ;D I remember when I got my Aune... where`s the freakin tube? Oh, there, inside the foam ;D


----------



## icecap

coil said:


> If you feel safe then it`s ok. But I doubt that opening mains plug and changing fuse for correct one will void the warranty. In case something happens it`s easy to change it back. Just 1 screw to open the plug, it`s no-brainer.




Because mine to begin with is the plug type A from China/USA.. And that will mean cutting up the wire or changing it entirely from the transformer to install the plug type G just to put a fuse in between the current.. I would have rather change my tubes and enjoy the music!


----------



## CoiL

Hmmm... thought that T1`s come only with UK plug. Well, seems you get the "local" plug from where you order it. Mine came from UK and I use adapter like this: 
   
  Adapter that comes with Aune T1 is non-standard and won`t fit into EU socket.


----------



## Enuma-elis

By the way, preheating of my Aune takes about 50 sec not 30. It's same for all units or it differs unit to unit?


----------



## CoiL

It should be 30sec, at least mine is about 30sec.


----------



## HolyCheese

I don't think it matters. Some people say tubes sound best after 30 mins.


----------



## HolyCheese

I don't think it matters. Some people say tubes sound best after 30 mins.


----------



## Grevlin

So...
   
  I have my T1 arriving next Wednesday.
   
  I'm really considering ordering some AKG 702's today to complete a happy couple. They would arrive Tuesday if I order today.
   
   
  Talk me out of it.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Looked into transducer. Mine is missing the tape that is in the picture on rockgrotto(that is why it was moving inside). And one of the layers is a bit(0,5-1mm) separated from others.


----------



## Enuma-elis

I started enjoying it when listening to Requiem for a dream soundtrack. Before it was cleaner, more defined but nothing has not changed much(tried some classical). A guess some tube rolling would worth try.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> I don't think it matters. Some people say tubes sound best after 30 mins.


 
  The Aune T1 is relatively cool. Larger more high end tube amps heat up until they can burn your skin and heat up your room.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> It should be 30sec, at least mine is about 30sec.


 
   
  Mine takes about the same time as it takes my computer to boot up (around 40 sec). So I would say T1 has great synergy with my pc


----------



## Enuma-elis

Cirque du soleil: Quidam sounds amazing with 6922. The soundstage is surely there, you just have to play right music. Some of my recording were kinda disappointing. I think 6922 is not best for most of my (rather intimate) music.


----------



## CoiL

Yeah, and everything under FLAC is like ****ting into tube socket ;D


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> Yeah, and everything under FLAC is like ****ting into tube socket ;D


 

 I have music under FLAC but I'm not listening to it. I'm little angry(in a good way) because sooo little of my music benefits from 6922. Cirque du soleil, or these Ten Million Sounds you've post sounds just perfect, but I have to look for another tube for the rest. I feel that string can be more precise and piano more accurate. And it's also like hmm...where si my music...oh there: half a mile away a guy is playing a piano.


----------



## Sorrodje

@ Enuma-elis : what's your headphone ?


----------



## bcpk

10 seconds into my first song with the T1 and already hearing beats I had not known were there. Worth the price.
   
  Haven't tried the Mullard ECC88 tube yet, using the EH6922 first so that I (hopefully) have another level of impressiveness to go to after getting used to the EH's sound.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> @ Enuma-elis : what's your headphone ?


 
   
  Takstar hi-2050. I haven't compare them to higher end headphones, but they sounds nice, neutral. They kickass my px360 unbelievably, but that's not comparison, they're different cans for different purpose(but superlux hd661 kicks them as well, they're also good bang for a buck). I would like more detailed and tighter tube for my minimal music. Any idea?


----------



## Enuma-elis

I hate that Mozart Requiem sounds flat(all three versions I have), maybe it is because the way it was recorded, I'm not sure if could distinguish Aune from my very good equalized sony mp3 player in this particular case. Metal sounds good, but could be better, New age I have sounds in many cases fantastic.


----------



## Grevlin

Well, no one talked me out of it so I ordered some AKG 702's and this stand:
   

   





   
  So by middle of next week, I should have the new T1 and 702's


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Takstar hi-2050. I haven't compare them to higher end headphones, but they sounds nice, neutral. They kickass my px360 unbelievably, but that's not comparison, they're different cans for different purpose(but superlux hd661 kicks them as well, they're also good bang for a buck). I would like more detailed and tighter tube for my minimal music. Any idea?


 
   
   
  How much money would you spend ?


----------



## Grevlin

Ordered:
   
  http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6922EHGold
   
  and
   
  http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6N23P


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> How much money would you spend ?


 

 Not much right now, but I possibly can get very good tubes locally for decent price. So, tell me and I will try seek for it.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Well, no one talked me out of it so I ordered some AKG 702's and this stand:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Congratz. I've never heard them, but many people call them (with aversion) analytical so I have to love them for the same reason.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Not much right now, but I possibly can get very good tubes locally for decent price. So, tell me and I will try seek for it.


 
   
  Definitely get an e188CC/7308  if you can get it cheap. it's the more refined tube I've heard. If you don't find any upgrade with this , Aune T1 and Tubes are not for you  .. there's many used but tested good conditions e188CC oin ebay.fr now.  I've been lucky enough to get a very cheap (20€) NOS 70S one today otherwise i would have bought a used one for spare.
   
  I'm currently listen to mine ( sold as NOS but I doubt ) wich is a "La Radiotechnique" from early 60s and I think Upraditis is over for me . These wonders compliment very well both my he-400 and and my Sig pro .


----------



## Sorrodje

....


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> Definitely get an e188CC/7308  if you can get it cheap. it's the more refined tube I heard. If you don't find any ugrade with this , Aune T1 and Tubes are not for you  .. there's many used but tested good conditions e188CC in ebay.fr now.  I've been lucky enough to get a very cheap NOS 70S one today otherwide i would have bought a used one for spare.
> 
> I'm currently listen to mine ( sold as NOS but I doubt ) wich is a "La Radiotechnique" from early 60s and I thing Ugraditis is over for me . These marvels compliment very well both my he-400 and and my Sig pro .


 

 Thanks. It's also nice you admire your French tube, Americans love their, I will definitely try some Czech...


----------



## Enuma-elis

I have only about 5 hours of serious listening and have a few weeks of music, but some music IS significantly better with Aune, other is just cleaner(maybe because it was just fine before). Ad to Requiem- I must have bad recordings of Mozart, Britten's and Faure's Requiem recording sounds better, fuller, 3D.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 T1 is a great unit, thanks for recommending it.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Thanks. It's also nice you admire your French tube, Americans love their, I will definitely try some Czech...


 
   
  It's not a matter of origin  .. i think it's just easier to fin cheap french Tubes here and American Tubes in USA ?  tubes I found are relatively common in radio equipment so we can find ols spare tubes at good price. 
   
  I don't know if any factory made E188CC in Czech Republic .


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> It's not a matter of origin  .. i think it's just easier to fin cheap french Tubes here and American Tubes in USA ?  tubes I found are relatively common in radio equipment so we can find ols spare tubes at good price.
> 
> I don't know if any factory made E188CC in Czech Republic .


 

 Just a joke. Played on the string of patriotism. You might be right, I can't find any Tesla E188CC.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Congratz. I've never heard them, but many people call them (with aversion) analytical so I have to love them for the same reason.


 

 I saw those reviews as well.
   
  I actually like that - I want to hear what was recorded, plain and simple. I do understand that the tubes will effect the sound, but I'm ok with that.


----------



## toschek

Did you get the regular 702 or the 65th anniversary ed.?

Hope you like em either way, the headband can be uncomfortable on the regular one for some people.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> I have music under FLAC but I'm not listening to it. I'm little angry(in a good way) because sooo little of my music benefits from 6922. Cirque du soleil, or these Ten Million Sounds you've post sounds just perfect, but I have to look for another tube for the rest. I feel that string can be more precise and piano more accurate. And it's also like hmm...where si my music...oh there: half a mile away a guy is playing a piano.


 
  Read my earlier review about tubes. Amperex ECC88 I have should be good for you for string/piano/vocal music. Like I told 6922EH is good for electronic atmospheric music.
  For me it`s also same deal - one tube for rock/metal/string/vocal music and 6922EH / Tungsram PCC88 for electronic.


----------



## Grevlin

toschek said:


> Did you get the regular 702 or the 65th anniversary ed.?
> 
> Hope you like em either way, the headband can be uncomfortable on the regular one for some people.




I found the regular 702's for $270 - the Anniversary Ed are going for $500. I'm adding a turntable and related gear in a few weeks so I need to budget wisely.

I have an idea on how to soften up the bulges while I'm breaking in the cans. Side note: where does one get a track of white or pink noise for break-in. I hear the 702's need around 300 hours!


----------



## toschek

Google pink/white/brown noise, there are high quality 10m flacs/wave/aiff versions of each, just queue them up.


----------



## Shadovv

Get this reference recordings if you can.
  http://www.amazon.com/XLO-Reference-Test-Burn-In/dp/B0000015AL
   
  I use track 9 (System Burn-In) and just put it on a constant repeat.


----------



## Grevlin

Found free downloads of 10min Pink noise on FLAC and 1min silence mp3
   
  Nice part is the Pink noise does not really broadcast so I can have it breaking in and not bother me.
   
  ...good to go!


----------



## Grevlin

I got my 702's in...
   
   

   
   
  I just broke them in for an hour with the pink noise/silence tracks and started going through my music at random.
   
  They are just running off my Total BitHead (not too impressive) - I can't friggin wait to get the T1 in.
   
   
  I've actually almost teared up on some songs - shocking to even myself. I wont rant too much because its a little off-topic, but I may have finally reached that moment when I start recognizing audiophile-esque details!
   
   
  Edit - I can't seem to take these things off.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Damn, that eargasm thing is right. But I'm now listening to dynamic lively music, not the analytical minimalistic music I'm used to cause it sounds just dry. Need to get different tube, before I start being normal.


----------



## Grevlin

Still got them on.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Still got them on.


 






. I might have about 7 hours of listening today-in fact yesterday cause, it's past midnight. I'm quite sure you will be amazed with 702-T1 combo. For me it took a few hours of listening since I found matching music
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 for the tube, but I'm a kind of weirdo, I guess you'll be amazed from first moment.


----------



## Grevlin

Its ridiculous.
   
  The cans are so light, the pads don't touch my ears at all. Its like - the music is just - there.
  No hot spots, pain on the scalp...nothing. Its friggin' amazing.
   
   
  I really need the T1
   
   
  Tracking already has it in the 'States headed my way.


----------



## dcfis

Dont worry about that, the 702s are excellent in its detail retrieval and neutrality while being pretty musical. A properly implemented tube wont change the character of the phones but should provide a roundness and dimentionality to the sound and possibly a bit of space.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





coil said:


> If you feel safe then it`s ok. But I doubt that opening mains plug and changing fuse for correct one will void the warranty. In case something happens it`s easy to change it back. Just 1 screw to open the plug, it`s no-brainer.


 
   
  Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Takstar hi-2050. I haven't compare them to higher end headphones, but they sounds nice, neutral. They kickass my px360 unbelievably, but that's not comparison, they're different cans for different purpose(but superlux hd661 kicks them as well, they're also good bang for a buck). I would like more detailed and tighter tube for my minimal music. Any idea?


 
  I think you need better headphones, spending money tubes will be a circlejerk IMHO. 
  Quote: 





grevlin said:


> I found the regular 702's for $270 - the Anniversary Ed are going for $500. I'm adding a turntable and related gear in a few weeks so I need to budget wisely.
> 
> I have an idea on how to soften up the bulges while I'm breaking in the cans. Side note: where does one get a track of white or pink noise for break-in. I hear the 702's need around 300 hours!


 
  Personally from what I read - the Anni is worth it, the K702 can be cold and clinical. I would have looked for a good price Q701 if your on a budget. But of course it all depends on your music taste and how much you value bass. And yes around 300 hours. Do it while listening to music - trust me its more fun, the treble will be the second last thing and the soundstage and imaging the dead last thing to tighten up. 
   
  They should definitely exaggerate the differences in the tubes. Good for finding the differences in tubes.
   
  Quote: 





grevlin said:


> I got my 702's in...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  Quote: 





dcfis said:


> Dont worry about that, the 702s are excellent in its detail retrieval and neutrality while being pretty musical. A properly implemented tube wont change the character of the phones but should provide a roundness and dimentionality to the sound and possibly a bit of space.


 
  I dunno if I would ever call them naturally musical - that depends solely on the components up on the chain.  And I dunno about that - more often then not people WANT the tubes to change the character of the phones. Again thats for personal preference, I don't think I will enjoy the cold and clinical K702s naturally. I hardly do my K242HD. But in the right chain, where a bit of colour and musicality is injected they shine.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





wir3d said:


> I think you need better headphones, spending money tubes will be a circlejerk IMHO.


 
  You might be right, Probably you're right because almost everyone of us should benefit from better headphones
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. I'm not sure about detail, but I think the wideness(which is unwanted for rather intimate piano music)  is "caused" by 6922. The other thing is that sometimes I can hear I've reached limits of the recording, not just a hiss problem, but overall feeling. It's not a case of bits or kbps, but the way it was recorded. Have you heard hi-2050? They're just unbelievable for the price...


----------



## CoiL

I think I don`t need other cans than my modded Superlux HD-681 (mkII filter + custom pads) because imho they have perfect synergy with T1 
  But certainly when I have opportunity to try other cans with T1, will do it and post if I find something better. Soon I will propably get a chance to try ATH-M50 with T1.


----------



## Salvatore

Been doing some T1 vs E17 comparison for a couple of days now and can say that with this Electro Harmonics 6922 stock tube I only find some minor differences between the products. T1 has wider and deeper (better) bass, but vocals and the overall tone are clearer with E17 (This is with treble +2db, which has been my favorite setting for the K702 annies. Without EQ the clarity difference is not so noticeable). I would say sound stages are pretty much on par and I've found myself enjoying both amps depending on the music I listen. T1 definitely got the looks and the volume control is far superior in T1. Man these both products are great for the price, but all things considered I would give the edge for T1 mainly because I have high hopes for the tube rolling business. I'm yet to experience how the tubes affect the sound but will be back with more impressions after my first tube order arrive.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> You might be right, Probably you're right because almost everyone of us should benefit from better headphones
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  The thing about amazing for its price, is that it is, but it that means in can trade blows with headphones one bump up the ladder, but not really beat (unless its heavily modded Fostex T50rp) 
  Getting better headphones in that upper league or even a step past that will still be superior. The AKG K242HD are another great bang for buck, and they really do shine with better amps and dacs and such. 
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> I think I don`t need other cans than my modded Superlux HD-681 (mkII filter + custom pads) because imho they have perfect synergy with T1
> But certainly when I have opportunity to try other cans with T1, will do it and post if I find something better. Soon I will propably get a chance to try ATH-M50 with T1.


 
  see  above
  Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Been doing some T1 vs E17 comparison for a couple of days now and can say that with this Electro Harmonics 6922 stock tube I only find some minor differences between the products. T1 has wider and deeper (better) bass, but vocals and the overall tone are clearer with E17 (This is with treble +2db, which has been my favorite setting for the K702 annies. Without EQ the clarity difference is not so noticeable). I would say sound stages are pretty much on par and I've found myself enjoying both amps depending on the music I listen. T1 definitely got the looks and the volume control is far superior in T1. Man these both products are great for the price, but all things considered I would give the edge for T1 mainly because I have high hopes for the tube rolling business. I'm yet to experience how the tubes affect the sound but will be back with more impressions after my first tube order arrive.


 
  this... i don't? How even.... Not to be a ****** but I would really think there should be more differences - especially with the AKG's


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





wir3d said:


> this... i don't? How even.... Not to be a ****** but I would really think there should be more differences - especially with the AKG's


 
   
  I found a very noticeable difference between e17 and AuneT1 when i had the two.  And with my Ultrasone aune T1's was far better . The first thing I noticed is that T1 ( with an upgraded tube 6N27p)  brings vocals more forward and that Soundstage is improved with more deepness and greater precision. Sound with T1 is airier, smoother, more "natural".  I sold quickly the E17 after  purchasing my T1. The main reason is I've no real use of a mobile Dac/amp but i never miss its sound quality


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





wir3d said:


> The thing about amazing for its price, is that it is, but it that means in can trade blows with headphones one bump up the ladder, but not really beat (unless its heavily modded Fostex T50rp)
> Getting better headphones in that upper league or even a step past that will still be superior. The AKG K242HD are another great bang for buck, and they really do shine with better amps and dacs and such.
> 
> see  above
> this... i don't? How even.... Not to be a ****** but I would really think there should be more differences - especially with the AKG's


 

 As in most cases, it's a question of belief. A believe that sub $250 cans would not be much improvement for me, you that they would be. Get yourself hi-2050, let them 100 hours burn in, and then tell me... Just kidding, but the fact is that I am not planning to get new headphones now, but will try some tube rolling. 
  Btw read a thread about Takstar, maybe that enthusiasm will convince to get some...just for curiosity's sake.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> but will try some tube rolling.


 
   
  I think a good entry point is a 6N23p-EB or 6N27p . both better in my opinion than stock 6922EH and they an be found at reasonnable prices. I prefer 6N27p  . I bought a pair for a bit more 30€ from this seller http://myworld.ebay.com/jetparts!?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 and it was perfectly fine. 
   
  The tube which gave the bigger improvement relatively to the price is my Mullard 6DJ8 : bought here ( http://cgi.ebay.fr/ECC88-6DJ8-MULLARD-NOS-/310512880990?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item484c028d5e ) . I really like this tube which works well with both my he400 and my Ultrasone.  My Amperex 6922 is quite similar , a bit brighter but costs more money ( I paid 45€ for it)


----------



## Grevlin

Anyone have experience with this tube:
   
  Gold Lion ECC88 / 6922 Gold Pin Cryo Single Tube
  http://www.cryoset.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_24&products_id=317&osCsid=e4m0cjj2bnkg77k74htqu0s6g7
   
  ?


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> I think a good entry point is a 6N23p-EB or 6N27p . both better in my opinion than stock 6922EH and they an be found at reasonnable prices. I prefer 6N27p  . I bought a pair for a bit more 30€ from this seller http://myworld.ebay.com/jetparts!?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 and it was perfectly fine.
> 
> The tube which gave the bigger improvement relatively to the price is my Mullard 6DJ8 : bought here ( http://cgi.ebay.fr/ECC88-6DJ8-MULLARD-NOS-/310512880990?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item484c028d5e ) . I really like this tube which works well with both my he400 and my Ultrasone.  My Amperex 6922 is quite similar , a bit brighter but costs more money ( I paid 45€ for it)


 

 Thanks, but like I've said before, I will try to get some locally. The guy I've contacted is not responding very good(has a big ping) but there is more options. 7308/E188CC might be a little problem but I have bunch of time now, so I can seek for hidden treasures.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> 7308/E188CC might be a little problem but I have bunch of time now, so I can seek for hidden treasures.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





wir3d said:


> The thing about amazing for its price, is that it is, but it that means in can trade blows with headphones one bump up the ladder, but not really beat (unless its heavily modded Fostex T50rp)
> Getting better headphones in that upper league or even a step past that will still be superior. The AKG K242HD are another great bang for buck, and they really do shine with better amps and dacs and such.


 
  Please try to write more understandable sentences, took me a while to get what you are trying to say.
  Have you ever heard HD-681 with mkII filter + custom pads and read about them? Something tells me no. People prefer them to much more expensive cans. I`m on the same opinion as Enuma-elis, cans in the price range up to ~250$ won`t give so much improvement that it makes me to buy them. I am very pleased with HD-681 and see(hear) no reason why I would want anything more - I am already getting eargasm with them + T1 and hear no shortcomings, just as I like it - well balanced but littlebit extension on both ends, spacious, clear details and multi-layered soundstage. I`m not trying to say that these cans beat everything - surely not! But for me it`s enough and higher league cans are out of question for me because of price. Also, very important thingy is personal taste of cans sounding. I have also HD-662F with custom hf filter (very flat and accurate response) and they are great but mostly for studio and analytical listening. For home listening HD-681 is much more "fun" sounding with T1 and I don`t get bored with its sound. And there is also question about what genre are you listening and what kind of soundstage you prefer for it. Also people hear differently. Like you can see from earlier posts - one guy hears almost no difference with E17 and other hears huge difference. One guy says 6922EH tube isn`t wide & spacious enough, other says it`s too much.
  So, to sum it up - there are many aspects to consider and nobody can tell for sure that more expensive cans will be better. Pairing up cans with amp/dac`s isn`t easy. Only thing that matters in the end is - if you like what you hear and feel no shortcomings.


----------



## bcpk

What settings are people using on their gain switches?


----------



## CoiL

0 gain


----------



## bcpk

What does "0 dB gain" actually mean? I'm presuming it doesn't mean that the amp is bypassed.


----------



## dcfis

Quote: 





wir3d said:


> I dunno if I would ever call them naturally musical - that depends solely on the components up on the chain.  And I dunno about that - more often then not people WANT the tubes to change the character of the phones. Again thats for personal preference, I don't think I will enjoy the cold and clinical K702s naturally. I hardly do my K242HD. But in the right chain, where a bit of colour and musicality is injected they shine.
> 
> 
> Nobody said you had to, Cold and Clinical is a construct you made up and is totally independent of the phones. If you prefer a different sound and character fine, but dont fault an immensely detailed and accurate phone for not being your preference, either set up the system with the components to move it closer to a preference or use a EQ to make it as neutral as possible. The K/Q 70X have a very easy to work with FR curve. Its easy to get them to neutral or sweeten them however you want. This is a concept the home stereo guys understand from the start and one the headphone guys cant seem to grasp. The only fault I have with them is the depth of soundstage, the air around instruments and a sense of a defined space. Guess what- Tubes


----------



## 65535

0 dB is a term used for quantifying the amount of volume adjustment done to a line level signal. Imagine it as a pre-amp for the amplifier. At 0 dB the pre-amplifier section of your amplifier does not change the level of the signal coming in. Then it is amplified by the amp section to your headphones. Sometimes for power hungry headphones that are too quiet at that setting need gain added to the signal before it is amplified, in that case you would use a setting that results in positive gain added such as +3 dB or +10 dB. Negative dB numbers mean you are lowering the level of the signal. -[size=15.333333015441895px]∞dB means absolute silence and no signal. 0dB is also known as unity, same out as in. Hope this helps.[/size]


----------



## dcfis

Also wanted to add that while I think the 70x is a great phone thats not the only little picks, just the ones I think that can benefit directly from eq and tubes to make it an even better phone and experience. The biggest gripe is the distorted leading edge of the high end. Im not so sure it can be helped. Granted this might just be my amps I currently have around and all of them not being able to deal with the 62 ohm cans but Ive seen it before when using a single speaker full range and there usually isnt a fix.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> I found a very noticeable difference between e17 and AuneT1 when i had the two.  And with my Ultrasone aune T1's was far better . The first thing I noticed is that T1 ( with an upgraded tube 6N27p)  brings vocals more forward and that Soundstage is improved with more deepness and greater precision. Sound with T1 is airier, smoother, more "natural".  I sold quickly the E17 after  purchasing my T1. The main reason is I've no real use of a mobile Dac/amp but i never miss its sound quality


 
   
  Probably the tube then. I have both T1 and E17 connected at the same time, volumes adjusted to same level and been changing the output between T1 to E17 during same songs. I'm using Foobar2000 with wasabi event output and playing flacs only. Yes T1 sounds smoother and has more deepness.


----------



## Sorrodje

salvatore said:


> Probably the tube then. I have both T1 and E17 connected at the same time, volumes adjusted to same level and been changing the output between T1 to E17 during same songs. I'm using Foobar2000 with wasabi event output and playing flacs only. Yes T1 sounds smoother and has more deepness.




I dit that too when I still had my E17 .. same volume and quick A/Bing  

That said , if differences between headphones are always huge ( in term of quality or sound signature), differences between dacs and amps in my little experience are always thin. A few month ago , i had E17 and an asgard ( I used it as an amp with E17 as DAC). I'm not sure I would be able to hear the difference between asgard and embedded headphone amp in E17 . I sold Schiit amp and put money in a headphone upgrade . Then I could hear where I've put my money  

With the Aune T1, it ws the first time I really hear sound quality improvement . Even now when I change tube I can really hear differences . So I'm convinced that this little dac/amp really worthes it's price.


----------



## Sorrodje

bcpk said:


> What settings are people using on their gain switches?




16 Db gain.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> 16 Db gain.


 
   





 really? I'm doing well with 0 gain. And yeah T1 is worth the price. One question though. How did you use your E17 as dac only? With L7?


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> really? I'm doing well with 0 gain. And yeah T1 is worth the price. One question though. How did you use your E17 as dac only? With L7?


 

 Yeah with L7 
   
  16Db because I settle Aune T1 at half volume and I use my computer to adjust the final sound level.  sometimes when I listen to classical with my K501 I need to crank up a lot the  volume even with 16Db gain. So I stay with 16Db gain and adjust volume accordingly for each headphone I use.


----------



## WiR3D

coil said:


> Please try to write more understandable sentences, took me a while to get what you are trying to say.
> Have you ever heard HD-681 with mkII filter + custom pads and read about them? Something tells me no. People prefer them to much more expensive cans. I`m on the same opinion as Enuma-elis, *cans in the price range up to ~250$ won`t give so much improvement that it makes me to buy them*. I am very pleased with HD-681 and see(hear) no reason why I would want anything more - I am already getting eargasm with them + T1 and hear no shortcomings, just as I like it - well balanced but littlebit extension on both ends, spacious, clear details and multi-layered soundstage. I`m not trying to say that these cans beat everything - surely not! But for me it`s enough and higher league cans are out of question for me because of price. Also, very important thingy is personal taste of cans sounding. I have also HD-662F with custom hf filter (very flat and accurate response) and they are great but mostly for studio and analytical listening. For home listening HD-681 is much more "fun" sounding with T1 and I don`t get bored with its sound. And there is also question about what genre are you listening and what kind of soundstage you prefer for it. Also people hear differently. Like you can see from earlier posts - one guy hears almost no difference with E17 and other hears huge difference. One guy says 6922EH tube isn`t wide & spacious enough, other says it`s too much.
> So, to sum it up - there are many aspects to consider and nobody can tell for sure that more expensive cans will be better. *Pairing up cans with amp/dac`s isn`t easy. Only thing that matters in the end is - if you like what you hear and feel no shortcomings. *


 
  At 4am in the morning and working all night you would have to forgive my lack of cohesion. I tell you what Next time I do a batch order from thomann.de I will get one mmkay?  But if you honestly think a $50 can will beat the K242HD, Denon D2000  which are just examples of under the limit you set, then your in for a rude awakening, stating that is laughable. Although thats not to say there aren't $250+ headphones that sound horrid. aka Beats.
   
  Your telling me to try cheaper headphones, i have owned many and they surprised me, but they are still cheaper headphones, even with tweaks, and they still pale in comparison to real competitors. A great example of a cheaper headphone that can seriously perform is the AKG K242HD or K240mkII, the downside is they need a good component chain, but they bettered my Denon D2000 for sound quality, although the 2 are hardly comparable, different amping requirements, different FR, different Sound signature.
   
  And I agree completely, I made a Denon amp list because of how angry I got at the dumb pairing and complaints of performance, and trust me I did A LOT of research, check the link in my sig if you don't believe me. And then of course you get the elusive "Synergy".


dcfis said:


> Nobody said you had to, Cold and Clinical is a construct you made up and is totally independent of the phones. If you prefer a different sound and character fine, but dont fault an immensely detailed and accurate phone for not being your preference, either set up the system with the components to move it closer to a preference or use a EQ to make it as neutral as possible. The K/Q 70X have a very easy to work with FR curve. Its easy to get them to neutral or sweeten them however you want. This is a concept the home stereo guys understand from the start and one the headphone guys cant seem to grasp. The only fault I have with them is the depth of soundstage, the air around instruments and a sense of a defined space. Guess what- Tubes


 
  Plainly put - your wrong. You CANNOT EQ anything past the FR, and the sound signature comprises of so many more things, some of which the K70x does very well like soundstage, imaging and clarity, but that doesn't mean its pleasurable, sure there is the odd nutter who likes it, and congrats to him. But this is talking about the general consensus, and they lack some very important parts, musicality, euphoria, intimacy, especially with an unmusical amp. I'm not faulting them, but for most people  their clinical and cold nature is a fault, its the simple truth, and thats where Tube amps come in, injecting the euphoria and musicality and intimacy. 
   


enuma-elis said:


> As in most cases, it's a question of belief. A believe that sub $250 cans would not be much improvement for me, you that they would be. Get yourself hi-2050, let them 100 hours burn in, and then tell me... Just kidding, but the fact is that I am not planning to get new headphones now, but will try some tube rolling.
> Btw read a thread about Takstar, maybe that enthusiasm will convince to get some...just for curiosity's sake.


 
  I got the Denon D2000 at just over $220, and my AKG K242HD at $120, and My Asus Xonar Essence ST at $160, Xears TD-III and Xears XE200-pro at EUR30, Trust I know about underdogs and bang for buck at X price range, and they do punch above their weight, but still, thats like a middleweight being able to get a few good shots in at a heavyweight, but at the end, the heavyweight will still win, unless its an incompetent tool aka Ultrasone Edition 8. Thats why I say. Personally I think you could still benefit from an upgrade.


----------



## dcfis

So they can't be fed a corrected eq input but they can be corrected through tubes. OK that doesn't sound contradictory. Every speaker designer would be shocked.


----------



## CoiL

WiR3D, learn to read whole sentences and try to understand what I'm saying. You are totally misreading my point. 
   


> But if *you honestly think a $50 can will beat the K242HD, Denon D2000*  which are just examples of under the limit you set, then your in for a rude awakening, stating that is laughable.


 
  I haven`t stated anything like this. These are your words. I clearly pointed out that cans up to 250$ won`t bring enough improvement for ME to get them when I`m already very pleased with HD-681mkII and hear no shortcomings. This is my PERSONAL opinion.
  Will try to get my ears on 242HD/mkII and give my comparsion but I seriously doubt that they are so much better that I would buy them.
   
  And all those words from a guy who doesn`t have T1 himself and haven`t heard HD-681mkII with it? Kinda empty words for me. Pointless to argue when you have no real experience with this combo. 
   
  Btw, this is too offtopic to discuss here. Lets stay on subject - Aune T1


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





coil said:


> Btw, this is too offtopic to discuss here. Lets stay on subject - Aune T1


 
   
  Good idea, thanks


----------



## Grevlin

...well
   
  If the tracking site is correct, it looks like my T1 will be arriving today.


----------



## bcpk

Sorrodje, I believe "proper" practice is to max all software volume (Windows/Foobar) so that you don't lose bit-depth. Because of that I think I'll be switching from 16 dB to 0 dB. I'm not sure if there's actually a difference in SQ at volume-matched levels though


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





bcpk said:


> I'm not sure if there's actually a difference in SQ at volume-matched levels though


 
   
  I haven't do any research on this point. I don't know


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





coil said:


> WiR3D, learn to read whole sentences and try to understand what I'm saying. You are totally misreading my point.
> 
> I haven`t stated anything like this. These are your words. I clearly pointed out that cans up to 250$ won`t bring enough improvement for ME to get them when I`m already very pleased with HD-681mkII and hear no shortcomings. This is my PERSONAL opinion.
> Will try to get my ears on 242HD/mkII and give my comparsion but I seriously doubt that they are so much better that I would buy them.
> ...


 
  Agreed, btw I am going to get the T1, and since I need to organise another group buy for thomann I will buy the HD-681 and the HD-668 and then report back. Albeit in 2 months. But regardless. If I don't see the value in upgrading, I'll eat humble pie. But I'm betting my famous left nut that I won't be.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





wir3d said:


> Agreed, btw I am going to get the T1, and since I need to organise another group buy for thomann I will buy the HD-681 and the HD-668 and then report back. Albeit in 2 months. But regardless. If I don't see the value in upgrading, I'll eat humble pie. But I'm betting my famous left nut that I won't be.


 
  Don`t forget to make mkII filter mod, without it there is no comparsion. Btw, I have HD-681 and HD662F if you wanted to order same cans. I don`t have 668b.
  For me that humble-pie-eating-attitude already says pretty much about your future opinion. Value in upgrade is each person own to decide. These are our personal opinions and noone can say that yours is "better" than mine. Propably we just have to agree to disagree. But enough of offtopic.
   
  Anyway, got my Mullard ECC88 (BVA, Imported, GAG, delta5D2, A-frame dimple disc getter). First impressions - very good tube for rock/metal/jazz. 
  Similiar to my Amperex ECC88/6DJ8. Will rest my ears and burn that tube littlebit, will get more detailed info tonight/tomorrow. One thing is sure - it is among 3 best tubes I have.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Just listening to some binaural recordings, it's amazing, airy and...live. But of course, not all binaural recordings I've experienced are so great. Some examples just for case, you've never heard binaural : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbOmya3X4kw . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6OsYVkyIww . The quality is not very good, but it can show what I'm talking about.


----------



## CoiL

This is just SICK! O_o It sounds so freaking real with Aune T1 + Mullard ECC88. I actually lowered my head when the newspaper was put on "my head" ;D And those scissors are ******* scary! ;D
  This one gives me also chills: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nTZ0w-NVm4 ...I´m almost feeling that women breath in my ears. Creeps crap out of me  
  One more: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPTa4_HrPhs
   
  E: After listening those (with HD-681mkII), I think Amperex ECC88 and Mullard ECC88 are most accurate and real-sounding tubes @ Aune T1 from tubes I have. At first I though it would be 6922EH because of very wide and spacious sound but I was wrong, 6922EH soundstage is too big and sound is further away then it should be, both - vertically and horisontally. Also it has more echo/reverb and whole soundstage seems to be pushed littlebit far back from your head.
  Thats why I prefer 6922EH with electronic music - gives it more air and "life". With rock music it just gets too spacious-sounding.


----------



## Enuma-elis

A little bit funny stuff: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6G7JR2Kfnc


----------



## Grevlin

Well, the T1 came in.
   
  I was a little surprised on the tube. It's labeled:
   
_6922EH Electro Harmonix - Made in Russia - 12 02_
  
  Which I believe is an upgrade, though I did not see anything about that when I ordered. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Couple pics: (I got the black version)
   

   

   
  I've literally listened to like two songs with my new K702's (maybe 30 hours break-in)
   
  Its sounds amazing to me already.  Volume dial is around 25% when I'm listening.
   
   
  QUESTION: The switch on back is labeled "SW"  - is this an actual power switch? The tube goes dark if I flip it, but I don't know if its actually cutting power.
   
   
   
  Its gonna take me a while to break it in and really get some opinions, but at first glance - I'm extremely happy.


----------



## Enuma-elis

So far, I can recommended these binaural recordings:  Edgar Froese - Aqua  -:-  Gorn, Levin, Marotta - From the Caves of the Iron Mountains  -:-  Head-Fi And HDtracks - Open Your Ears  -:-  Ottmar Liebert - Up Close  -:-  Studio Voodoo - Studio Voodoo  -:-  Wycliffe Gordon - Dreams of New Orleans  -:-  Ultrasone reference CD


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Well, the T1 came in.
> 
> I was a little surprised on the tube. It's labeled:
> 
> _6922EH Electro Harmonix - Made in Russia - 12 02_


 

 Yeah, same for me(I've wrote about it when my T1 came). It seems that the seller sends it with 6922 instead of 6n11 tube. For the price we paid... it's REAL deal.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





> Couple pics: (I got the black version)


 
  Your photos are not highest quality, but the black color of your Aune is recognizable without shade of doubt.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Yeah, same for me(I've wrote about it when my T1 came). It seems that the seller sends it with 6922 instead of 6n11 tube. For the price we paid... it's REAL deal.


 

 Oh yeah.
   
  And it came direct from China delivered to my house in (4) working days. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
  Edit - yeah, its my iPhone 4. It takes pretty good pics but the lighting has to be just right. (And is was not for these pics - obviously)


----------



## kwatch

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Well, the T1 came in.
> 
> I was a little surprised on the tube. It's labeled:
> 
> ...


 
  Where did you buy yours?


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Oh yeah.
> 
> And it came direct from China delivered to my house in (4) working days.
> 
> ...


 

 Actually it was one of my little jokes. I was alluding to your need to tell us that you've got black version, even it was recognizable from photos. Argh, I hate my inability to present jokes in english
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





kwatch said:


> Where did you buy yours?


 
  I think Grevlin and Enuma-elis got their`s from here: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/FA035BB-AC-220V-SILVER-COLOR-Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Preamp-Audio-Decoder-6N11/695543397.html
   
  It`s the cheapest I have seen but with postage and customs it`s better to order from here if you are inside EU :http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251164443176?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> I think Grevlin and Enuma-elis got their`s from here: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/FA035BB-AC-220V-SILVER-COLOR-Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Preamp-Audio-Decoder-6N11/695543397.html
> 
> It`s the cheapest I have seen but with postage and customs it`s better to order from here if you are inside EU :http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251164443176?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


 
  Yup, thats the seller.
   
  Here is the link to the black version. You'll see me way down at the bottom - American flag.
   
  http://www.aliexpress.com/item/FA035AA-AC-110V-BLACK-COLOR-Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Preamp-Audio-Decoder-6N11/695478897.html


----------



## dcfis

Crap I ordered on the 30 and the track estimate says Feb 14. Y'all getting yours in 4days its great. Hope its wrong.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> Crap I ordered on the 30 and the track estimate says Feb 14. Y'all getting yours in 4days its great. Hope its wrong.


 
   
  Well, originally the Fed Ex tracking said arrival this Wednesday and it arrived today, 2 days early. I got the Fed Ex shipping upgrade.


----------



## Grevlin

Craziness. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I'm playing my favorite songs in various albums. Songs that I've listened to countless times.
   
   
  ...and I'm hearing them for the first time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
   
  There is more space, instruments are sort of farther apart. I can hear extra sounds, and more of the music that comes in softer and fades slower than I'd ever heard before. Some of the song's vocals and back-up vocals are almost entrancing.
   
  I played a few tracks of Muse and almost fell out of my chair. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  One of my favorite singers - Jem - her vocals are just more...delicate.
   
   
  Its friggin' amazing.
   
   
  Sorry, I'm a newb - don't even know the vocabulary to describe what I'm hearing.


----------



## toschek

I like your impressions Grevlin. I was similarly impressed with the sound of the Aune + K 702s. Save up some money and get a nicer tube like the Mullard or Amperex ECC88 or a JAN Amperex 7308 and the combo will come even more to life if possible, there is seriously a great synergy with those cans + those tubes that you will really love. 

I have to say I always thought EH tubes were on the continuum of OK to outright horrible. EH tubes were everywhere in electronic music production in the late 90s to early 00s, there was this trend to "put a tube in it" to make some stab at fake analogue type sound, sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't. I have a lot of 12AX7 tubes because of this but most are it terrible shape by now I'm sure. 

Anyway, your rig will benefit from a tube upgrade. Even if you're happy with it now, you can always squeeze out a little more performance.


----------



## Rem0o

Hey there.

 Anyone can give a little bit more info on the HD650 with the T1? I'm actually using them with a E10 (poor little guy). Does the T1 has the guts needed? Is the bass tight? What amp would it compare to?

 Thanks


----------



## toschek

Yes, it drives the HD 650s just fine. I had this combo for a while until I traded up to the 65th anniversary K 702. I found the HD 650 midrange/bass not to my taste generally no matter what amp I used, but there's no problems with this combo whatsoever. Just avoid crap tubes and you'll be happy.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





toschek said:


> I like your impressions Grevlin. I was similarly impressed with the sound of the Aune + K 702s. Save up some money and get a nicer tube like the Mullard or Amperex ECC88 or a JAN Amperex 7308 and the combo will come even more to life if possible, there is seriously a great synergy with those cans + those tubes that you will really love.
> 
> I have to say I always thought EH tubes were on the continuum of OK to outright horrible. EH tubes were everywhere in electronic music production in the late 90s to early 00s, there was this trend to "put a tube in it" to make some stab at fake analogue type sound, sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't. I have a lot of 12AX7 tubes because of this but most are it terrible shape by now I'm sure.
> 
> Anyway, your rig will benefit from a tube upgrade. Even if you're happy with it now, you can always squeeze out a little more performance.


 
   
  Thanks for the info.
   
  I've been listening to the 6922EH that came with it all day because I need to start having things to compare off of. It was a ridiculous improvement as is, but I'm positive I will get better at hearing the differences.
   
  I have an Amperex ECC88 in the mail to me now.
   
  Today, I also received an Electro Harmonix 6922EH Gold and Rocket Logo 6N23P (both from boiaudioworks and both pre-screened for low noise) So I'll be giving each a day or two of listening in the rotation. I understand these things have break-in periods as well so it's gonna be a while. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I also started a tube log to keep track of my impressions on all these tubes.
   
   
  Side note: I'm staying around 15-25% on the volume dial. Is that...normal?  Can't imagine how loud it can get.


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





coil said:


> Don`t forget to make mkII filter mod, without it there is no comparsion. Btw, I have HD-681 and HD662F if you wanted to order same cans. I don`t have 668b.
> For me that humble-pie-eating-attitude already says pretty much about your future opinion. Value in upgrade is each person own to decide. These are our personal opinions and noone can say that yours is "better" than mine. Propably we just have to agree to disagree. But enough of offtopic.
> 
> Anyway, got my Mullard ECC88 (BVA, Imported, GAG, delta5D2, A-frame dimple disc getter). First impressions - very good tube for rock/metal/jazz.
> Similiar to my Amperex ECC88/6DJ8. Will rest my ears and burn that tube littlebit, will get more detailed info tonight/tomorrow. One thing is sure - it is among 3 best tubes I have.


 
  Honestly I can be smug when I'm sure I'm right, but that has never stopped me from being objective.  Basically I will test that if the AKG K242HD is worth twice the price with the T1, and to make things harder - twice the clarity, since value is subjective.
  Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Well, the T1 came in.
> 
> I was a little surprised on the tube. It's labeled:
> 
> ...


 
  High current + decent voltage + colouration = heaven for AKG's


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Side note: I'm staying around 15-25% on the volume dial. Is that...normal?  Can't imagine how loud it can get.


 
   
  What's your gain setting? I'm using 0 gain and volume between 25-75% depending on the mood  My advice is to use as low gain as possible.


----------



## toschek

Yeah, 15-25% sounds a bit low, but I don't have an EH tube in mine so it may be louder naturally. I'm usually at 35-40% with 0db gain on my 7308.

Maybe you have the gain dip switches on? Flip it over and check to see. Mine were set to on from the factory.


----------



## CoiL

> grevlin said:
> 
> 
> > Side note: I'm staying around 15-25% on the volume dial. Is that...normal?  Can't imagine how loud it can get.
> ...


 
   

 Same here. 0 gain and volume around 15-30%. Over 30% it starts to hurt my ears with longer listening.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Mine were set to on from the factory.


 
   
  Yeah same here. At first it was loud as hell. First thing I did was check the gain settings and it was indeed set on from the factory. Of course the volume levels depend also from your headphone impedance. I would imagine 0 gain 15-25% level could be loud with certain headphones.
   
  Edit: *toschek* you planning on getting the EH tube? Even if you're not the biggest fan of EH products it would allow you to compare your tube collection against current stock tube. I think many member would appreciate that (me included).


----------



## toschek

Yes, I'll pick one up. Does anyone have a link to a dealer with the EH in the US? I know there was one far back in the thread but I'm too lazy to hunt for it. Nevermind, I found one, should be here in a few days 

If anyone knows where I can pick up one of the dimple getter Amperex ECC88s I'll give that a shot too. I can always sell them off if I don't like them. 

I'd like to compare anything with the 7308, I've got two of them now I liked it so much.


----------



## toschek

grevlin said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> I've been listening to the 6922EH that came with it all day because I need to start having things to compare off of. It was a ridiculous improvement as is, but I'm positive I will get better at hearing the differences.
> 
> ...




Cool, I hope you dig the rocket logo, it is very intimate sounding with 702s, still one of my favorites. There is a sweet and wistful nature to the sound, I really like it still with chamber pop like O'Rourke, Shintaro Sakamoto or the Beach Boys and it really sounds nice with small ensemble classical pieces. The soundstage is a bit too limited in my opinion for large orchestral pieces but otherwise its a brilliant tube.

As far as breaking in the tubes, 30 minutes of warm up should be sufficient.


----------



## CoiL

toschek, there`s one 69` Amperex single leg dimple disc here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMPEREX-6DJ8-ECC88-LARGE-DIMPLED-DISK-GETTER-WORLD-TUBE-HOLLAND-1969-DATE-/380571091984?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D5375485883686256257%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D380571091984%26
   
  Would buy it myself but don`t bother to order from so far away, afraid of getting it lost or damaged in post. And about Mullard ECC88 vs. that single leg dimple disc amperex ECC88 - amperex is still better. Will get more detailed comparsion tonight. 
   
   
  E: Grevlin, have you got your single leg dimple disc amperex? What is your opinion? Also interested about 6922EH vs. 6922EH Gold. And if you bother to write, could you make comparsion between all your tubes taking 6922EH as base point like I did with my tubes?


----------



## allioxyzzy

Hi!
   
  I've just purchased my first decent set of full-sized headphones (DT 770 80-ohm) and have been on a quest to find a good desktop DAC/amp for them. After ruling out dozens of alternatives for various reasons I've decided the T1 sounds like it might fit the bill... the only thing that gives me pause is the relatively high output impedance (10 ohm), as I've read the DT 770 is particularly sensitive to this measure and anything 10 ohm or higher can result in uncontrolled, muddy bass. Say it ain't so! Has anyone tried this combination?
   
  I've fallen in love with the T1, it has character, and the idea of being able to effect a real change in sound quality by swapping out tubes sounds kind of delightful. Also it's less than half the price of an ODAC/O2 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 any thoughts?


----------



## CoiL

First thread post:
   
  
   


> Q:What headphones are adequately driven by the Aune T1 amp?
> A: Almost every headphone I have tried with the T1 works very, very well.
> 
> Here is a list of headphones that I've used on the T1, and I think sound great:
> ...


 
  I think DT-770 will be ok.


----------



## Grevlin

According to switches and manual, gain is at zero. 15-25% volume is fine, sounds like its pretty common to have it around there.
   
  My Amperex has not arrived yet - this week most likely.
   
  I do plan on posting my impressions and comparisons, but it's gonna be a while because I want to give each tube some time. Plus my learning curve will certainly skew things and will probably go back and re-try some tubes and compare again.
   
  I did not know the T1 would come with a 6922EH and I had already ordered the 6922EH Gold. This will now give me a chance to compare the two.
   
   
  My goal is not really to find the best tube as quickly as possible but to just enjoy the search.


----------



## kwatch

Do you hear any humming or noise when music is no playing?


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





kwatch said:


> Do you hear any humming or noise when music is no playing?


 

 Is that question for me?
   
  Mine is dead silent without anything playing. Both with 6922EH yesterday and Rocket Logo 6N23P today.


----------



## CoiL

Zero noise from my Aune T1. Of course when you have poor quality audio and don`t bypass PC internal output filtering ( you must use kernel stream plugin, ASIO or some alternative), then there will be some noise. Otherwise, turned my speakers and headphone knob to max with nothing playing - silence. That reminds me that I have to mod my custom short USB cable by cutting out +5V pin.


----------



## Rboin

Hi, i am a new comer in head fi, i am studying in beijing, and thanks to you guys, i bought aune t1 for $120 here. Yes they have none of the 6n11 tube anymore, mine come with eh 6922, which actually sells for usd 12 in China. (Of course i get better warranty  ). I have used senn px 100 for 4 years and just decided to enjoy more music by getting the akg k240 mk2. Only to find out that other guys "cried" for having a usb dac and amp to power them. So i buy this aune t1, it hurts me a lot that quality is expensive. But yes i also cried the first time i listened to it. 
   
  I have to admit that I need to learn the word "sound stage", "airy", "analytical". But here is my short review with my only standard being the original px100 and my local church band which i helped set. Listening on my new equipment tells me about good music and mastering. Bass and drums become more natural and closer to reality than the bass head px100. Sound stage is very small if your ear is not trained to differentiate from the laptop soundcard. But instrument separation, vocal pump is the keyword. A/b ing have revealed it to me. And yes, i must say that all music become more engaging, not to mention those background music on movies too.
   
  i am now following this forum to see which cheap tube i should get. Thanks guys. 
   
  Oh i also sandpapered the tube cover so i can unplug them easily.


----------



## Rboin

Ah and also the aune staff in a chinese forum told me to get the original camera connection kit for ipad to work well. Anybody tried it with ipad 3? Thanks.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Rboin* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> *Sound stage is very small* if your ear is not trained to differentiate from the laptop soundcard.


 
  I`m sure it`s because of your px100 headphones. With good headphones and 6922EH, soundstage should be huge compared to pc soundcard!
  Or did you mean it with AKG 240 mkII? With those cans there should be also huge difference in soundstage.
   
   
   
  E: About that custom short USB cable... Alex from rockgrotto:


> After just a few minutes playing around with this very nicely constructed and attractive little unit, I can say that a short USB cable with the Vbus (red wire) disconnected at the PC end of the USB cable did sound better than when using the longer supplied USB cable, which itself appeared to be quite a bit better quality than most normal USB cables, when playing a 24/192 track from Barry Diament's "Americas" album.


 
  Atm I`m using this 1M foil shielded: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1M-High-Speed-USB-2-0-A-Male-to-B-Male-Premium-Printer-Cable-Lead-/330861962594?pt=UK_Computing_USB_Cables&hash=item4d08e8e562
   
  Will buy shorter, gold plugs, foil shielded like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-2-0-A-to-B-A-B-printer-cable-CORD-FOR-HP-Epson-Lexmark-Canon-Brother-DELL-PC-/180888831638?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2a1dd08696


----------



## Rboin

@coil: yes You are correct that i have no improvement with the px100, just a bit layering and clarity and louder  . There is this sound stage with akg k240 mk2 but i dont have other comparison standard. Sorry for the misubderstanding.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> Zero noise from my Aune T1. Of course when you have poor quality audio and don`t bypass PC internal output filtering ( you must use kernel stream plugin, ASIO or some alternative), then there will be some noise. Otherwise, turned my speakers and headphone knob to max with nothing playing - silence. That reminds me that I have to mod my custom short USB cable by cutting out +5V pin.


 

 I notice slight hiss when the volume knob is about 80%, no music played. I suspect the tube, but it's not a big deal, because like a rest,I hardly ever get to 50%.


----------



## CoiL

Its propably the tube. Anyway my Mullard ECC88 is silent.
   
  Enuma-elis and Grevlin, is your USB cable black with golden plugs or grey? My T1 came with black and golden plugs not like the grey one on some older Aune T1 pics you can see on the web.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Black. I think, it doesn't make any differences. It could be a little shorter to be more handy, but I don't believe in any Super-uber 100% gold usb cables thing.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Black. I think, it doesn't make any differences. It could be a little shorter to be more handy, but I don't believe in any Super-uber 100% gold usb cables thing.


 

 I would agree - especially a USB cable. Its just ones and zeros going down the line, unless I'm missing something.
   
  After the Dac to the Amp and then from Amp to Speakers - I can see how cables would effect sound. I still can't fathom buying a cable that costs the same or even twice the cost of the equipment. I've seen ridiculous prices on cables.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> I would agree - especially a USB cable. Its just ones and zeros going down the line, unless I'm missing something.
> 
> After the Dac to the Amp and then from Amp to Speakers - I can see how cables would effect sound. I still can't fathom buying a cable that costs the same or even twice the cost of the equipment. I've seen ridiculous prices on cables.


 

 Maybe one day, when I grew old and rich...I will understand. But nowadays?


----------



## Grevlin

Yup - when we get to the point when nothing else is left to upgrade. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  ...$1000 4' cable - why not. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  The ad does say "So good you can hear the sounds of Angel's singing!"
   
   
   
  Agree - I won't be there for a while.


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> I would agree - especially a USB cable. Its just ones and zeros going down the line, unless I'm missing something.
> 
> After the Dac to the Amp and then from Amp to Speakers - I can see how cables would effect sound. I still can't fathom buying a cable that costs the same or even twice the cost of the equipment. I've seen ridiculous prices on cables.


 

 don't wish to start any debate here on that, but I am on the side of the camp that agrees on the significance of cables, be them analog or digital.. on every part of the signal chain cables affect the sound..
   
  I DIYed quite a few of cables myself and also bought from various places and their improvements are never placebo.. cables have been getting too much of a stick IMO.. even type of solder on the connection point has an effect... and I actually rate cables constructions and their materials a 5-10% affection on my overall listening experience.. an improvement on cables at any point they are needed, add that up, I can assure you the difference is there..
   
  I, however, don't see the need to spend thousands on these too, as from then on I reckon the improvements are probably not worth that amount of money to justify.. but sometimes for $50 or below, hell yeah!


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Yup - when we get to the point when nothing else is left to upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Yep, I wouldn't pay $1000 for growing my pennis four inches, and someone is suggesting pay it for a frickin' four steps cable?


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





icecap said:


> don't wish to start any debate here on that, but I am on the side of the camp that agrees on the significance of cables, be them analog or digital.. on every part of the signal chain cables affect the sound..
> 
> I DIYed quite a few of cables myself and also bought from various places and their improvements are never placebo.. cables have been getting too much of a stick IMO.. even type of solder on the connection point has an effect... and I actually rate cables constructions and their materials a 5-10% affection on my overall listening experience.. an improvement on cables at any point they are needed, add that up, I can assure you the difference is there..
> 
> I, however, don't see the need to spend thousands on these too, as from then on I reckon the improvements are probably not worth that amount of money to justify.. but sometimes for $50 or below, hell yeah!


 

 When I was younger I've spend some time on death/black metal concerts. I'm glad, that I can hear dac difference
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> Its propably the tube. Anyway my Mullard ECC88 is silent.
> 
> Enuma-elis and Grevlin, is your USB cable black with golden plugs or grey? My T1 came with black and golden plugs not like the grey one on some older Aune T1 pics you can see on the web.


 

 Mine is black with "gold" plugs - seems pretty solid as far as I can see.


----------



## CoiL

...


----------



## WiR3D

Quote: 





rboin said:


> @coil: yes You are correct that i have no improvement with the px100, just a bit layering and clarity and louder  . There is this sound stage with akg k240 mk2 but i dont have other comparison standard. Sorry for the misubderstanding.


 
  I was about to say....
   
  Quote: 





grevlin said:


> I would agree - especially a USB cable. Its just ones and zeros going down the line, unless I'm missing something.
> 
> After the Dac to the Amp and then from Amp to Speakers - I can see how cables would effect sound. I still can't fathom buying a cable that costs the same or even twice the cost of the equipment. I've seen ridiculous prices on cables.


 
  well... it depends, if the DAC section is drawing power from the USB port then (As people with ODACs have figured) you have some issues, because the dirty power from laptops especially feeds straight into the dac and that can make a substantial difference, so you need a linear power supply and 5v injector, also the cable carries noise from the power supply so you need a USB cable with ferrite chokes (that also makes a big difference), and then of course just decent isolation from outside noise. 
   
  Quote: 





icecap said:


> don't wish to start any debate here on that, but I am on the side of the camp that agrees on the significance of cables, be them analog or digital.. on every part of the signal chain cables affect the sound..
> 
> I DIYed quite a few of cables myself and also bought from various places and their improvements are never placebo.. cables have been getting too much of a stick IMO.. even type of solder on the connection point has an effect... and I actually rate cables constructions and their materials a 5-10% affection on my overall listening experience.. an improvement on cables at any point they are needed, add that up, I can assure you the difference is there..
> 
> I, however, don't see the need to spend thousands on these too, as from then on I reckon the improvements are probably not worth that amount of money to justify.. but sometimes for $50 or below, hell yeah!


 
  QED performance 1, cheap, lifetime warranty, good quality, as much I will ever use unless someone shows me some specs for any improvements. and since its all physics there should be a fair amount of substantiated theory and evident results, but there isn't, why? Because they apply wrong theories (like skinning effect to interconnects) for one.
   
  If your happy, I'm not gonna go all convert on you, be happy, its your money. And thats not me being a prick, genuinely honest.
  Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> When I was younger I've spend some time on death/black metal concerts. I'm glad, that I can hear dac difference
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I went to KoRn without fully recovering from an ear infection....


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





wir3d said:


> I went to KoRn without fully recovering from an ear infection....


 

 This is madness! Madness? THIS IS *WiR3D. *
  The thing is that after last year's Brutal Assault(yes I was few months younger) I can hear very slight hiss without having headphones on.


----------



## cheuh

Does anyone know how the Aune T1 compares to O2/ODAC, or Magni/Modi combo?


----------



## Rem0o

Quote: 





cheuh said:


> Does anyone know how the Aune T1 compares to O2/ODAC, or Magni/Modi combo?


 
  See the Headphonia review of the Magni and Modi and the comments bellow it. It directly compares the T1 to the Schiit stack. Just make sure you take it with a grain of salt as usual . If you want a made in the USA product and you like the M&M look, go for it. If you want to experiment with tubes, go for the T1. If you want to be able to carry your stuff with your laptop (battery), go the O2 route.


----------



## jiggahwhat

Everyone keeps on citing that same article. Ideally you'd not rely on a single testimonial. Wish there were more comparisons of the Aune T1 to other amps instead of 43 pages of tube switching -_-


----------



## Grevlin

jiggahwhat said:


> Everyone keeps on citing that same article. Ideally you'd not rely on a single testimonial. Wish there were more comparisons of the Aune T1 to other amps instead of 43 pages of tube switching -_-




43 pages or 86 pages - you will have to stop reading eventually and start doing. 

I was very close to getting a Magni/Modi stack, but the personal aspect of tubes changed my mind. After a couple days of getting to know the T1, I'm happy I did.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





jiggahwhat said:


> Everyone keeps on citing that same article. Ideally you'd not rely on a single testimonial. Wish there were more comparisons of the Aune T1 to other amps instead of 43 pages of tube switching -_-


 
   
  Well in such amp comparison the tube would affect the outcome. I, for example, did some E17-T1 comparison but this was with 6922EH tube and the results are hence very situational. For real comparison one should use multiple tubes. By reading those dedicated threads you get the idea how the amp should sound. With T1 you can try to find get the desired coloration via tubes while O2 should be natural sounding amp. T1 is good looking good value for money amp/dac combo, which has enough juice to power even the high impedance cans. Basic signature is warmish, but apparently not as warm as some dedicated tube amps (I'm only speculating here though since I haven't tested too many tube amps). With tube rolling you can try tuning the sound towards your liking. With 160 euros this product comes recommended even for blind buy (remember that this is both amp and dac. You can later get better amp and use this as dac only). I wasn't overly excited when compared T1 against E17, but I'm certain that with right tube I'll get closer to the sound I'm after. My other options were O2 or M-stage. Couldn't decide the dac part so got this T1 combo instead. I'm quite happy, but at this point it's all about finding the tube with best synergy with my K702 annies. Annies are somewhat warmer than the standard K702s so I would prefer some vocal clarity  / treble emphasis. This I could get by EQing my E17. E17, however, was inferior in some other aspects. Hopefully some day I'll get to try the O2. I guess what I'm trying to say is that tube comparison is huge part of evaluating this product. This being said I wouldn't mind reading amp comparisons more.


----------



## toschek

jiggahwhat said:


> Everyone keeps on citing that same article. Ideally you'd not rely on a single testimonial. Wish there were more comparisons of the Aune T1 to other amps instead of 43 pages of tube switching -_-




I've seen comparisons between e17, m/m, e10, o2/odac & others in this thread, not just tubes -- otoh at this stage in the discussion other than tube comparisons what else sets the aune apart from the other amps at this price point top be honest? I don't say that as if I am hating on the aune or anything, it's beautiful kit and I love mine ... it's just tubes are what sets it apart and not much else. 

I would like to see how it compared to something like the WA7 though


----------



## CoiL

Anyone planning to open the beast and change headamp NE5532 and DAC OPA2134 opamps? And if to do that, what would be better alternative?


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> Anyone planning to open the beast and change headamp NE5532 and DAC OPA2134 opamps? And if to do that, what would be better alternative?


 

 I'm not sure, if it's possible with this tube design.


----------



## CoiL

Don`t know about it, thats why I`m asking. Can anyone else comment?


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> Don`t know about it, thats why I`m asking. Can anyone else comment?


 

 It wasn't so worthless opinion post. I think I've red it somewhere, but I don't know where and who wrote it.


----------



## CoiL

I didn`t took it as worthless opinion  But since you are not 100% sure about it then would like second opinion.


----------



## dcfis

salvatore said:


> Annies are somewhat warmer than the standard K702s so I would prefer some vocal clarity  / treble emphasis. This I could get by EQing my E17.




Wait, didn't you get the science memo that you cannot eq past the frequency response? Your ears must have been wrong as its been so stated


----------



## zerogun

Ummm... Aune 



   
  I like most people bought the unit and ended up with the 6922-EH Electro-Harmonix from Russia. Then again, it probably was because I didn't know a thing about it and took the lunge with having minimal experience in the audio arena  So far so good, and I can't wait to explore different tubes


----------



## tomatolicious

I received a Telefunken PCC189 today, a very cheap tube that is mostly compatible with the ECC88 but has not been fully explored by enthusiasts yet, which leads to very cheap prices. To me this tube is just as as open as the Telefunken E88CC variant. The bass is not as nice yet, but it may need to open up a bit since it is brand new NOS stock. If you can get your hands on some high quality PCC189, go for it. 100% compatible with the Aune. They are supposed to run at double voltage than a ECC88, but they work just fine. I noticed no drawbacks yet whatsoever. For the €7 I spent for this it is by far the best deal I got on a NOS tube in terms of bang for the buck.


----------



## dcfis

Can the aune provide double the voltage? If not that's prolly why the thin bass

Thanks for the tip though


----------



## tomatolicious

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> Can the aune provide double the voltage? If not that's prolly why the thin bass
> 
> Thanks for the tip though


 
   
  No, I have not changed anything on the Aune at all, so it is providing the normal 6.3V. But, I just looked up the specs again and it is not double by far as I initially thought:
   
  ECC88: 6.3V
  PCC189: 7.6V
   
  Might explain the slightly less impressive bass as you suggested. I will let it run for a few days to see how it turns out.


----------



## Grevlin

So I noticed my volume control options have changed with the T1 plugged in to the old 'puter:
   

   
   
  ...so what is this SPDIF Interface stuff?


----------



## CoiL

Grevlin, are you kidding? ;D


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> Grevlin, are you kidding? ;D


 
   
  I think I'm going to hope I am. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   
  ...did I mention I'm a newb?
   
   
  Edit: Googled it.


----------



## CoiL

Btw, what music player are you using with PC and what plugin? I was also newb some time ago and didn`t know that with winamp I had to use Kernel Streaming or ASIO output plugin to bypass PC internal filtering. The sound is totally different when bypassed!


----------



## dcfis

Why is foobar not outputting automatically?


----------



## CoiL

dcfis, what do you mean by it? For foobar there is this thread that you should propably read: http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/thread/7039/basic-foobar-configuration-1st-posts
  Personally I don´t bother messing with foobar, traditional classic winamp + ASIO and KS plugin. Which plugin to use is up to you. First try KSO plugin: http://www.thefreewindows.com/2605/bypass-the-windows-audio-mixer-with-the-winamp-kernel-streaming-plugin/ and then ASIO: http://www.thefreewindows.com/2513/asio-plugins-for-winamp/ . For me ASIO plugin + ASIO drivers worked best because with KSO it didn`t seem to play in 24-bit (even when 24-bit box is disabled in winamp), KS status showed 16-bit while 24-bit file playing. But well, most FLAC and other lossless formats are in 16 bit per sample anyway, so it shouldn`t bother most ppl. KSO is a lot easier when you have no 24-bit music files. More info about KSO @ Winamp: http://www.hifi-advice.com/Winamp5-kernel-streaming-info.html (don`t set input/output buffers too low or you might get jitter and crackly sound). Also note that with KSO, depending on if you check 24-bit box or not, the output sound is slightly different.
   
  e: These are my settings:


----------



## dcfis

So, you don't like foobar?


----------



## CoiL

Didn`t say that. Just if I read about it and all it`s setup and customization opportunities... I just don`t bother to mess with it. I like simplicity.


----------



## joeq70

I'd like to say that I used to use foobar, but I decided to buy JRiver Media Center...does everything foobar can do and is much easier to set up and use.


----------



## dcfis

Dang man we are all in this together, I realize you must get tons of noob questions to get that agitated but I really didn't mean anything by it. Put me on ignore if you must.


----------



## CoiL

Sorry if I seemed somehow agitated - I`m not, just sharing some info and that`s the purpose of forums - to help each other and share info, advice, thoughts and impressions 
  I hope that some tube comparsions by "newb" members in here weren`t made without bypassing PC internal filtering because Aune T1 sounds very different with it.


----------



## Enuma-elis

I'm using Wasapi, and SoX because some(few) of my albums are 24/176-192. And I don't bother to turn SoX on and off, every time I play some of these recordings, so it's permanently on.


----------



## Grevlin

Finally tossed up some pics of my brand spanking new Desktop Rig 1.0
   
  Put a link in my sig


----------



## CoiL

Nice! Any update about that amperex tube? Just even briefly, do you like it?


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> Nice! Any update about that amperex tube? Just even briefly, do you like it?


 
   
  Nope
   
  I think its on the _Dolphin-Express_ from Israel.


----------



## walfredo

Hi Folks!!
   
  I just got mine!!  
   
  So, I did not have time to do a thorough evaluation.  Far from it.  To start, I've only used one headphone with it: ATH W3000.
   
  Anyhow, first impressions are: very detailed, powerful, spacious, clean, not "tubey" at all.  Interesting and promising, although I was expecting a bit more of a tube sound.
   
  A couple of questions:
   
  1-  Did you notice clear changes after "break in"?
   
  2-  What would a good tube to try?  I listen mostly to acustic music: jazz, brazilian and the like.
   
  (Yeah, I know these likely have been answered before, but this thread is very large.  I'd appreciate if some of you could distil the knowledge and enlight me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)
   
  Thanks!!!
   
  []s
  Walfredo


----------



## CoiL

What tube you got with it walfredo? 6922EH? 
   
   


> Anyhow, first impressions are: very detailed, powerful, spacious, clean, not "tubey" at all


 
  I had same first impression with 6922EH.
   
   


> 1-  Did you notice clear changes after "break in"?


 
  To be honest, didn`t notice any. Just plugged in the tube and there it was - eargasm!
   
   


> What would a good tube to try?  I listen mostly to acustic music: jazz, brazilian and the like


 
  I would certainly recommend 69`Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 with single support leg dimple disc. Only thing is, it`s very hard to get. Another one would be Mullard ECC88 with A-frame support leg and dimple disc which is very similiar tube. You can read about my tube impressions few pages back. Also there seems to be Amperex 7308 that is highly recommended. I really suggest you to take time and read this thread carefully through!
  Also there is always opportunity to try out different tubes yourself, it`s fun and you can find exactly what you like! Suggestions from other ppl are subjective and might not fit for your ears.
   
  Tubes that fit for Aune T1: 
*6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 7DJ8, PCC88, 6N27P, E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8*
   
  And just in case asking, what player and bypass plugin are you using for PC listening?
   
   
  E: About that amperex ecc88 I have... I`m really starting to enjoy every kind of music with it. 6922EH is still better for me with electronic music but with amperex I feel no real urge to change tube, still gets me enough air, space and "flowing in air" feeling.
  Btw, ordered one Philips Herleen Holland PCC189/7ES8 tubey... can`t seem to get rid of tube-sickness ;D 
  I need to make a nice wooden case/stand for my tubes


----------



## toschek

Yeah I have two of the Amperex 7308 tubes and even between the two there is a relatively large performance gap. One of them is a white letter JAN tube which is said to be exactly the same as the legendary Amperex 7308 PQ, the other is a green label JAN tube that while very very good doesn't quite hit the same marks as the PQ even though they sound similar. Both have expansive soundstages, incredible detail, three dimensional imaging and very lush presentation. The white label version that I absolutely treasure excels at everything you can throw at it. I truly feel like I don't deserve this tube sometimes 

The green one is good, it's my backup for a reason though. It can stand up with the white label but it's kind of like dating someone who only resembles your first true love. 

I'd look for the white label 7308s, either the PQ or JAN but you should be prepared to lay out some cheddar for those.

This is a highly objective assessment by the way. /Joking

Seriously though, it is a really nice tube and I'm not tempted to change it, I'll just get a better tube amp one of these days when I stumble into a few thousand dollars to blow on new goodies for myself.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> everything you can throw at it. I truly feel like I don't deserve this tube sometimes


 
   
  Oh man why are you doing this to me... I feel like this is a must purchase 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Can you give me the link for the place you got the white logo amperex. From all of the impressions here I should probably value the fellow annie owners recommendations the most. This being said I'm eagerly waiting for your impressions on the 6922EH. Would really appreciate detailed 6922EH vs Amperex 7308 comparison.


----------



## Sorrodje

Don't forget there's other tubes than Amperex ones  ... Many brands made e188CC/7308 such as philips , Mullard , Dario etc which are easier to find and far less expensive.  My last NOS from 70s e188CC from LaRadiotechnique costed me 26€ . 
   
  Russian Voshkod 6N23p is often considered equivalent to E188CC/7308 and costs around 30€ here or there.


----------



## zerogun

I find it extremely mind boggling how you guys can manage to remember all these codes and know that they're all able to fit the Aune T1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  I'm not expert on audio or even tubes for that matter, but my virgin audio ears have experienced what everyone has said about the 6922-EH Electro Harmonix. I think the biggest thing for me now, though I'm not sure if this is a legitimate statement, is that the sound appears to be very much coming from infront of me now. It's to the point where I can't tell if my speakers are creating the sound or if the iMac is making such beautiful sound. Again, I'm not sure if that's a legitimate thing to say about having added the T1, but this has been the most noticeable thing for me as I play music through my speakers (Creative Gigaworks T40 Series 2).
   
  I find the spaciousness and clarity most, when I use the T1 to power headphones/IEM (ATH-WS55 Solid Bass / Shure SE215). Granted the speakers do sound different, but I just can't put my tongue on what actually that difference is. Can someone drop me an easter egg and tell this newb how tubes affect the sound? The Aune T1 has 1 tube, but there are other DAC's that have multiple tubes for example, how does the number of tubes affect the sound being converted out?


----------



## dcfis

sorrodje said:


> Don't forget there's other tubes than Amperex ones  ... Many brands made e188CC/7308 such as philips , Mullard , Dario etc which are easier to find and far less expensive.  My last NOS from 70s e188CC from LaRadiotechnique costed me 26€ .
> 
> Russian Voshkod 6N23p is often considered equivalent to E188CC/7308 and costs around 30€ here or there.





True but not really. Amperex owns the 6922 from the 6dj to the low noise 7308. The earlier the better. I usually hate the greens though


----------



## Grevlin

CoiL - what is this bypass plugin yo speak of?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





coil said:


> dcfis, what do you mean by it? For foobar there is this thread that you should propably read: http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/thread/7039/basic-foobar-configuration-1st-posts
> Personally I don´t bother messing with foobar, traditional classic winamp + ASIO and KS plugin. Which plugin to use is up to you. First try KSO plugin: http://www.thefreewindows.com/2605/bypass-the-windows-audio-mixer-with-the-winamp-kernel-streaming-plugin/ and then ASIO: http://www.thefreewindows.com/2513/asio-plugins-for-winamp/ . For me ASIO plugin + ASIO drivers worked best because with KSO it didn`t seem to play in 24-bit (even when 24-bit box is disabled in winamp), KS status showed 16-bit while 24-bit file playing. But well, most FLAC and other lossless formats are in 16 bit per sample anyway, so it shouldn`t bother most ppl. KSO is a lot easier when you have no 24-bit music files. More info about KSO @ Winamp: http://www.hifi-advice.com/Winamp5-kernel-streaming-info.html (don`t set input/output buffers too low or you might get jitter and crackly sound). Also note that with KSO, depending on if you check 24-bit box or not, the output sound is slightly different.
> 
> e: These are my settings:


----------



## icecap

Depending on your dac, ASIO is much better, in certain case much needed, to fully capitalize its capability.. In this case of T1, wasapi should be the preferred and good-enough method, since ASIO is not needed as it is plug and play..

J River media centre gets my vote too.. I like it better than foobar for its GUI intuitiveness.. But importantly I feel it plays better than foobar in terms of soundstage expansiveness.. Bit-perfect playback but how can 2 different programs sound different? Hah, another hotly-debatable subject.. To each of its own..

I love my gold lion e88cc, but somehow feels the signature can still vary given the flexibility of T1.. Looking at mullard and amperex now to take a pot shot soon!


----------



## CoiL

> wasapi should be the preferred and good-enough method, since ASIO is not needed as it is plug and play


 
  Why should I prefer WASAPI? ASIO *drivers* are needed if you use ASIO *output plugin* with winamp.


----------



## walfredo

Thanks for the quick answers, Folks.  The amount and depth of your info is awesome.
   
  Yes, I have the 6922EH.  It came with the T1.  I'll take the time to read through the tube options and start rolling... 
   
  Regarding how I play, I use foobar with WASAPI output.
   
  @CoiL:  Please post a picture of your tube collection in the wood box.  Sounds fascinating.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> Thanks for the quick answers, Folks.  The amount and depth of your info is awesome.
> 
> Yes, I have the 6922EH.  It came with the T1.  I'll take the time to read through the tube options and start rolling...
> 
> ...


 

 I'd like to see that as well.
   
  I'm using a small Otter Box for my tiny collection so far. I'll post a pic later on.


----------



## CoiL

Quote:


> I need to make a nice wooden case/stand for my tubes


 
  Don`t have it yet but will make it if I have enough time for that. Lot of other projects on the run atm.


----------



## Yy4eva

Just got my aune t1, and now while typing this out  i am currently using it with my grado 325is. Lovely tube dac, excellent amp. A few 6n23p both voshkod and reflektor will be coming in soon and i am very excited for the tube rolling process to begin.


----------



## icecap

coil said:


> Why should I prefer WASAPI? ASIO *drivers* are needed if you use ASIO *output plugin* with winamp.




Because T1 uses Tenor 7022 which is plug and play.. Wasapi is the most straightforward means built into windows since vista to direct audio straight to DAC, bypassing any windows mixers, for plug and play sound devices..

Driver is definitely needed for your ASIO output to work since ASIO is not a protocol built into T1.. You are essentially routing the audio an extra step out, although I must say I don't know how much an effect that will be to the sound...

Some DACs that are 24bit/192kHz capable (ie using Tenor 8802) need drivers for that bit rate to work.. And most often those drivers are ASIO driven, then selecting ASIO will be the optimum choice.. No harm selecting wasapi too, but again, there might not be perfect synergy as the ASIO is, most of the time if not surely, a better fit since it was written for that specific hardware..


----------



## CoiL

And ASIO plugin + driver does exactly the same thing! I see NO difference! KS, ASIO and WASAPI all bypass the windows mixer and stream audio straight to DAC via USB. Plug and play doesn`t matter in this case because it`s about source directing/output from software... DAC still recieves the data same way, does the same job, same way. How is ASIO driver + plugin an extra step? Explain me please. In which way is WASAPI most straightfoward? Because its built into windows?


----------



## Rem0o

Just received my unit, seems pretty good from my first listening session. This thing just destroys the Fiio E10 using high impedence cans, obviously. Build quality is really good.

 Pretty impressed so far!


----------



## Grevlin

As promised...the Tube Box:


----------



## dcfis

My Aune is due to arrive tomorrow, cant wait, though  its going to take a bit for evaluation


----------



## xplisit

how long does upscaleaudio generally take to ship products purchased the amperex 7308 on the 25th and still not shipped, anywhere else that stocks the amperex 7308 and actually ships items faster?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> its going to take a bit for evaluation


 
   
  That's just.... awesome. btw how many different tubes you own? For someone with that kind of collection T1 seems to be a good investment.
   
  Side note: Rocket logos are in and early impressions are that I really like this tube. Haven't had time to do extensive listening yet, but so far can't find too many things that irritate me with the rocket. Seems to work well with many genres also. Playlist jumping from Joe Satriani to Ice Cube to Kim Wilson to Sheryl Crow to Steeldrivers and it sounds great. Maybe it is indeed the intimacy that joeq described that makes this tube so fun to listen. Or then I'm just getting used to the T1 sound (most likely this). There could be a little bit more air on the sound stage and some extra clarity though, but this is definitely a good tube. Especially to listen alone in the dark at 4 am (like I'm doing now). Also this seller seems legit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-6N23P-E88CC-6DJ8-TUBES-NOS-NEW-USSR-MILITARY-FOR-AUDIO-AMP-PREAMP-VINTAGE-/170978975997?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item27cf2420fd $8 + $10 is not bad for 2 perfectly working rocket logo tubes.


----------



## dcfis

I have no idea. I need a Rocket logo so I might pick those up. Has anyone tried the old Shugang 6922? They were pretty legit though a little bright


----------



## walfredo

Pretty neat, CoiL!!


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> My Aune is due to arrive tomorrow, cant wait, though  its going to take a bit for evaluation


 
   
  Dude!!!!
   
  Looking forward to read your evaluation!


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> [...] Maybe it is indeed the intimacy that joeq described that makes this tube so fun to listen. [...] Also this seller seems legit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-6N23P-E88CC-6DJ8-TUBES-NOS-NEW-USSR-MILITARY-FOR-AUDIO-AMP-PREAMP-VINTAGE-/170978975997?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item27cf2420fd $8 + $10 is not bad for 2 perfectly working rocket logo tubes.


 
   
  Okay.  I'm sold.  That is going to be my first roll in the T1.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Thanks, Salvatore.  Thanks you all in this thread!!  
   
  BTW, if any of you is going to be the SF bay area meet on Feb 17, drop me a PM.  I'd love the change to meet you personally.


----------



## toschek

Walfredo - I didn't know there was a meet. PM details, I might make it over. 

Salvatore - really glad you like the rocket logo, it is a really good all-rounder like you said. 

XpIisit - I ordered mine and received in 3 days from upscale. I would call them at this point, maybe the shipping co. lost your package. Did you get an order processing email?


----------



## toschek

Oh man .... Why did I have to visit Upscale's website tonight? I would never had known they had these back in stock: http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Telefunken-E88CC-%7B47%7D-6922.html -- and consequently would be $200 richer right now. 

It'll be here Wednesday ... so excited ! Review (and gloating) soon to come. 

Speaking of tubes that cost more than the amp you put them in, anyone have experience with these babies? http://www.upscaleaudio.com/miniwatt-dario-e188cc-7308/ The description is very enticing ... maybe it's better than the Telefunken for the music I like (IDM, classical, prog)?


----------



## Salvatore

It could be that 6922EH has somewhat wider soundstage, but rocket logo has better balance within its intimacy (if that makes any sense). The differences are not huge but noticeable enough to make me enjoy the rocket more. With 6922EH the vocals are not so well balanced with the overall sound stage imo. Like I said earlier I'd like more space between me and the singer to match the overall vibe of 6922. With the rocket the sound stage is a bit more intimate which goes better with the mental image of the singer being close to you. Rocket creates this sweet intimate warm cosy vibe and is the kind of tube you want to play loud. I can see my normal levels are now 50-60%. 2 rockets for $18 is definitely a good deal. Highly recommended. What I would like next is to get a tube with wide sound stage and balanced transparency all across the spectrum. I'm getting excited here guys 
   
  One more thing. In rocket tube the logo faces you which is nice. In the case of 6922EH the logo stays on the backside of the tube. I just think its cool to see the logo while the tube is in use. You can easily tell which tube you have on atm if you are, for example, constantly switching them.
   
  Rocking Bill Withers atm. Cool stuff!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Oh man .... Why did I have to visit Upscale's website tonight? I would never had known they had these back in stock: http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Telefunken-E88CC-%7B47%7D-6922.html -- and consequently would be $200 richer right now.


 
   
  Dude... this is getting out of hand  Hopefully you have decent salary and/or lots of savings.


----------



## dcfis

Would like to get your impressions of the Tele. I had a pair or two but know I sold at least one as I did not prefer it The miniwatt was not favorable as a buffer but great in the SP9. CCAs were excellent and if I had FU money maybe but these tube lore tubes havent really done it for me considering the old Amperex is about as good as it comes. But, different applications, ect. Somebody need to try the old clear and black Shugang
   
  Also, I think its important for guys to list their setup especially the cans, we know basically the aune via usb.


----------



## toschek

salvatore said:


> Dude... this is getting out of hand  Hopefully you have decent salary and/or lots of savings.




The income tax fairy was nice this year. My wife will claim the rest for home improvements, so I needed to get my treats before I give her the rest.


----------



## toschek

dcfis said:


> Would like to get your impressions of the Tele. I had a pair or two but know I sold at least one as I did not prefer it The miniwatt was not favorable as a buffer but great in the SP9. CCAs were excellent and if I had FU money maybe but these tube lore tubes havent really done it for me considering the old Amperex is about as good as it comes. But, different applications, ect. Somebody need to try the old clear and black Shugang
> 
> Also, I think its important for guys to list their setup especially the cans, we know basically the aune via usb.




You're absolutely right on the setup, I'm using a Mac with iTunes & BitPerfect & a Windows VM with Fidelify and JRiver. My headphones are K 702 65th anniversary edition. Very simple setup.

I've heard really good things about the Tele's transparency, neutrality and soundstage.

Anyway, if I don't like it, near perfect ones are rare enough that I can sell it for close to the asking price.


----------



## xplisit

Quote: 





toschek said:


> XpIisit - I ordered mine and received in 3 days from upscale. I would call them at this point, maybe the shipping co. lost your package. Did you get an order processing email?


 
   
  Nope it says awaiting shipment so they haven't even shipped it, on the 29th Jan they said 1-2 days will be shipped but yeah nothing since then order status hasn't changed and no reply to my email I sent day or 2 ago, so far its been a pretty bad first experience with them, especially considering I paid $140 for the Amperex 7308 as shipping alone was $54 (live in Australia so shipping cost more) anyway will wait a bit longer see what happens.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> It could be that 6922EH has somewhat wider soundstage, but rocket logo has better balance within its intimacy (if that makes any sense). The differences are not huge but noticeable enough to make me enjoy the rocket more. With 6922EH the vocals are not so well balanced with the overall sound stage imo. Like I said earlier I'd like more space between me and the singer to match the overall vibe of 6922. With the rocket the sound stage is a bit more intimate which goes better with the mental image of the singer being close to you. Rocket creates this sweet intimate warm cosy vibe and is the kind of tube you want to play loud. I can see my normal levels are now 50-60%. 2 rockets for $18 is definitely a good deal. Highly recommended. What I would like next is to get a tube with wide sound stage and balanced transparency all across the spectrum. I'm getting excited here guys


 
  This all must be the difference with cans because with HD-681mkII + 6922EH the soundstage is HUGE! Also with this combination there`s enough space between singer and listener, maybe even too much and vocals seem well enough balanced for me. It just must be the difference in cans. Haven`t tried rocket logo but 6N23P reflektor logo is too intimate, close and narrow/foward sounding to me.


----------



## toschek

xplisit said:


> Nope it says awaiting shipment so they haven't even shipped it, on the 29th Jan they said 1-2 days will be shipped but yeah nothing since then order status hasn't changed and no reply to my email I sent day or 2 ago, so far its been a pretty bad first experience with them, especially considering I paid $140 for the Amperex 7308 as shipping alone was $54 (live in Australia so shipping cost more) anyway will wait a bit longer see what happens.




If you can afford to call them with Skype or something I'd try that. They are usually really good with this stuff, but if your case goes badly I'll stop shopping there.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> This all must be the difference with cans because with HD-681mkII + 6922EH the soundstage is HUGE! Also with this combination there`s enough space between singer and listener, maybe even too much and vocals seem well enough balanced for me. It just must be the difference in cans. Haven`t tried rocket logo but 6N23P reflektor logo is too intimate, close and narrow/foward sounding to me.


 
   
  Sure there is that big ol' sound stage but I like the rocket more with all its intimacy and balance. These two tubes definitely have different "shaped" sound stages or should I say stereo images. I feel that with 6922EH the sound is wide with vocals staying in front of you (quite close). In the case of rocket everything seems to be in front equally separated (but in smaller space). With EH more sounds are coming from sides. I guess I could say that with rocket it is like listening band live in some basement and with EH it is like listening band in bigger concert hall where the sound has more space to move around and "attack" your ears from different directions. In this sense I share your impressions for saying that reflector/rocket is more narrow sounding (not the same tube but I think we both know what we are talking about here). The rocket seems to be especially great for some older rough blues rock just because of that intimate basement kind of vibe. I listened some Gregg Allman, Musselwhite and Otis Taylor and got really immersed to the music. Maybe its not the best tube for listening all kind of music and I could see myself preferring 6922EH for some songs. For example when listening Elton John I got that big stage live feel and thought that EH could be better suited here. I just don't want to be switching tubes all the time. Don't even know how much rolling the tube socket can take  In the end it all comes to personal preferences I guess. I don't have the best skills to explain things but If you like to listen some older blues get this cheap tube, roll the volume up to 50+%, close your eyes and enjoy.
   
  All this blabber aside the most positive thing is that after careful comparison there are indeed noticeable differences between the sound of tubes. And this makes me super excited. I can now see how some folks here *cough* toschek *cough* has gotten hooked into this tube rolling business.


----------



## bcpk

None of the tubes you guys are using were ever actually purposed for use in audio, right?


----------



## Sorrodje

The only tubes originally designed for audio are 7308/E188CC.


----------



## Grevlin

Side discussion about the T1 - speakers!
   
  If you look at my new desktop rig (Ver. 1.0 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





) You'll see have some speakers for a simple 2 ch system.
   
   
  The problem is that I upgraded four things at once:
   
  1. They went from the desktop on either side of monitors to up on monitor stands.
  2. I also used Sorbathane pads between the speaker and top stand plate.
  3. I used a new cable from Momoprice to go from the OUT on the T1 to an IN on my Onkyo 606 Receiver.
  4. I have the T1 on a maple platform with Sorbathane pads under it as well as put Sorbathane pads under the 606.
   
   
  WOW 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  What an improvement out of the speakers. - but I don't know if it was one of the upgrades or a little of everything.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Sure there is that big ol' sound stage but I like the rocket more with all its intimacy and balance. These two tubes definitely have different "shaped" sound stages or should I say stereo images. I feel that with 6922EH the sound is wide with vocals staying in front of you (quite close). In the case of rocket everything seems to be in front equally separated (but in smaller space). With EH more sounds are coming from sides. I guess I could say that with rocket it is like listening band live in some basement and with EH it is like listening band in bigger concert hall where the sound has more space to move around and "attack" your ears from different directions. In this sense I share your impressions for saying that reflector/rocket is more narrow sounding (not the same tube but I think we both know what we are talking about here). The rocket seems to be especially great for some older rough blues rock just because of that intimate basement kind of vibe. I listened some Gregg Allman, Musselwhite and Otis Taylor and got really immersed to the music. Maybe its not the best tube for listening all kind of music and I could see myself preferring 6922EH for some songs. For example when listening Elton John I got that big stage live feel and thought that EH could be better suited here. I just don't want to be switching tubes all the time. Don't even know how much rolling the tube socket can take  In the end it all comes to personal preferences I guess. I don't have the best skills to explain things but If you like to listen some older blues get this cheap tube, roll the volume up to 50+%, close your eyes and enjoy.
> 
> All this blabber aside the most positive thing is that after careful comparison there are indeed noticeable differences between the sound of tubes. And this makes me super excited. I can now see how some folks here *cough* toschek *cough* has gotten hooked into this tube rolling business.


 
  Now, this is proper and more accurate describing I`d say  I agree with that all. Just you said before that you need something more spacious than 6922EH sounded wierd to me. I have 8 tubes to compare atm and 2 more coming... none of them hasn`t beaten 6922EH yet in spacious & airy sound. And I just adore this tube with electronic music like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SA7Upi-AhWc


----------



## dcfis

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Sure there is that big ol' sound stage but I like the rocket more with all its intimacy and balance. These two tubes definitely have different "shaped" sound stages or should I say stereo images. I feel that with 6922EH the sound is wide with vocals staying in front of you (quite close). In the case of rocket everything seems to be in front equally separated (but in smaller space). With EH more sounds are coming from sides. I guess I could say that with rocket it is like listening band live in some basement and with EH it is like listening band in bigger concert hall where the sound has more space to move around and "attack" your ears from different directions. In this sense I share your impressions for saying that reflector/rocket is more narrow sounding (not the same tube but I think we both know what we are talking about here). The rocket seems to be especially great for some older rough blues rock just because of that intimate basement kind of vibe. I listened some Gregg Allman, Musselwhite and Otis Taylor and got really immersed to the music. Maybe its not the best tube for listening all kind of music and I could see myself preferring 6922EH for some songs. For example when listening Elton John I got that big stage live feel and thought that EH could be better suited here. I just don't want to be switching tubes all the time. Don't even know how much rolling the tube socket can take  In the end it all comes to personal preferences I guess. I don't have the best skills to explain things but If you like to listen some older blues get this cheap tube, roll the volume up to 50+%, close your eyes and enjoy.
> 
> All this blabber aside the most positive thing is that after careful comparison there are indeed noticeable differences between the sound of tubes. And this makes me super excited. I can now see how some folks here *cough* toschek *cough* has gotten hooked into this tube rolling business.


 
  Phase shifts- they are heavenly. 
   
  Anyway I got it and so far and I really think there needs to be some burn in. The op amps or something is a bit harsh and crunchy. This will change but I can actually listen to the EH in this set up. Super wide. I love the presentation. The PQ Orange 6922 (Ace card ringer) was a total failure so far on the K702 and HD650. This has to change I would assume. The Shugang like I thought is so far the best. They have always been linear with a inner light able to separate instruments and actually add some amount of air around them on the k702, soundstage isnt quite as wide as the EH and there is a slight thinness to the texture but it make the K702 jump like a hd650- well, almost.
   
  Dont go buy any tubes off of this random rambling Ive only had it for a few hours.
   
   
   
  PC-JRiver- Aune-K702/HD650


----------



## toschek

I've just gotten the 6922EH today and I haven't really had time to put it through it's paces.   So far I agree with Salvatore's assessment (we actually have the same headphones so that's not a huge surprise).    As I said, not a lot of time spent with it so far, but I am not really all that impressed.   The rocket logo seems to be a better fit with these cans, and the Amperex PQ/early JAN tubes even better.   The EH has a bit more depth/width to the soundstage but instrument separation is not as good as the rocket and cannot even come close to touching the Amperex in any way, shape or form.   The EH also needs a lot more volume than either of these other tubes.   With the EH I have to use at least 10dB gain to get to a listenable level with some of my recordings (e.g. Water Lily Acoustics #WLA-CS-29-CD, Ry Cooder & V.M. Bhatt "A Meeting By The River") -- I don't like using the gain, but if I have to I have to.
   
  Anyway, so far it's decent, but I'm not about to sing it's praises or anything.   IMO stick to the rocket or spend a lot more and get the Amperex.
   
  I'll spend more time with it tomorrow/monday and maybe my opinion will change.   It's a brand new tube so perhaps a little burn in will open it up a little bit.   Gotta go work now.


----------



## CoiL

> The EH also needs a lot more volume than either of these other tubes.


 
  Wth? O_o I guess It`s because of cans? So far all tubes I have, including 6922EH doesn`t need to be taken over 30% volume knob @ 0db gain setting. 
   
  dcfis, if you want more and punchier bass than 6922EH then try Tungsram PCC88. They have same soundstage imo.
   
   


> The Shugang like I thought is so far the best.


 
  Can you give a link where to get it? Maybe will try if the price is acceptable.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Now, this is proper and more accurate describing I`d say  I agree with that all. Just you said before that you need something more spacious than 6922EH sounded wierd to me. I have 8 tubes to compare atm and 2 more coming... none of them hasn`t beaten 6922EH yet in spacious & airy sound. And I just adore this tube with electronic music like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SA7Upi-AhWc


 
   
  Yeah sorry that was my mistake with the first impression post. What I meant was that 6922EH has wide sound stage, but in its stereo image the vocals are not as balanced as I would like. Thats why I said that the vocals should be further. Rocket, even though sounds narrower, has balanced separation with each instrument. The band I'm listening stays intimatedly in front of me and the vocals stay nicely in the middle of the mix. I think with small tweaks the 6922EH could be awesome. Just need the vocals to sit better in the mix. If you understand what I mean and know a tube to fit my needs that would be much obliged.
   
  I think its easier to draw what I was talking about. In the first picture, rocket on the left hand side and 6922EH on the right hand side (x = listener, v = vocals). In the second picture the upper "v" describes where I feel the vocals should be (Kind of three leaf clover 6922EH, where vocals were a bit further, would be awesome):
   

   
   
   
   
  Edit: I agree 6922EH is far superior tube for electronic and ambient music. My 6922EH doesn't need any more volume than the rocket. And sorry for my drawing skills


----------



## dcfis

Well crap, I thought I could pick it out easy as there were tons floating around 8 years or so ago. Ive got to do some digging as these are fatter bottle, star mica and have the plate crimps like like Amperex. Not a code on them. 
   
  Ive never tried the Tungstram. We might need to get a swap going. Ive got 
   
   
  Ediswan CV2492
  Mystery Shuguang 6922
  JAN Phillips 6922
  Bugle Boys
  Amperex PQ Gold Pins 6922 different years
  Amperex 6dj8s orange and whites (in the home rig- preciouses)- prolly need to stay


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Yeah sorry that was my mistake with the first impression post. What I meant was that 6922EH has wide sound stage, but in its stereo image the vocals are not as balanced as I would like. Thats why I said that the vocals should be further. Rocket, even though sounds narrower, has balanced separation with each instrument. The band I'm listening stays intimatedly in front of me and the vocals stay nicely in the middle of the mix. I think with small tweaks the 6922EH could be awesome. Just need the vocals to sit better in the mix. If you understand what I mean and know a tube to fit my needs that would be much obliged.
> 
> I think its easier to draw what I was talking about. In the first picture, rocket on the left hand side and 6922EH on the right hand side (x = listener, v = vocals). In the second picture the upper "v" describes where I feel the vocals should be (Kind of three leaf clover 6922EH, where vocals were a bit further, would be awesome):
> 
> ...


 
  I think this is where cans difference comes in. With HD-681 mkII it`s exactly (or very close) as you would like it, something like this:
   

   
   
  It`s the only tube that goes so far back from my head (e: you have to have certain music to experience that, not everything sounds like that). And with electronic "atmospheric" music it`s just great! And you don`t get the feeling that it`s too hollow and too big hall-like soundstage that instruments & details start to get lost. For electronic music it`s just right amount of everything imo.  
   
   
   


> Amperex 6dj8s orange and whites (in the home rig- preciouses)- prolly need to stay


 
  Any single support leg dimple disc amongst them? If there is - try it with T1! Great tube!


----------



## dcfis

Do I need to buy that headphone? What is it?


----------



## CoiL

Spoiler: Offtopic%20about%20HD-681



 
  You do not need to buy them if you don`t want ;D But they are freaking awsome bang-for-a-buck for the sound they make and if you feel highs too harsh like some ppl do with the grados you can add easy mkII filter. Here is a loooong thread about them: http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/thread/4769
  Some find these cans with mods better than much more expensive cans: 


> Call me stupid but I prefer the HD681 with filter above my HD650 and DT770 and DT880


 
  Here are my cans with self-made angled pads and mkII filter (that wooden box): http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/post/124411/thread


----------



## toschek

coil said:


> Wth? O_o I guess It`s because of cans? So far all tubes I have, including 6922EH doesn`t need to be taken over 30% volume knob @ 0db gain setting.
> 
> dcfis, if you want more and punchier bass than 6922EH then try Tungsram PCC88. They have same soundstage imo.
> 
> ...




Dude, I'm just calling it as I see it. I wish it worked better. Maybe it's a bad tube? I don't know. I left it on for the past 12 hours blasting pink/white noise at 16dB (headphones disconnected, just volume cranked). It was hot when I got home but the sound was no better than when I left -- in fact it sounds worse! 

Popped my Amperex back in and it's back to heaven. 

 I'm ready to write off the 6922EH as defective at this point, gonna call on Monday for an exchamge. Something minor that pissed me off -- these old tubes I have all came in 50 - 55 year old boxes that still stay together. The 6922EH tube is brand new and the box fell apart in my hands in 5 minutes.


----------



## CoiL

Yeah, I belive it`s defective. I have seen other mentions about shi**y quality EH`s that will "burn out" fast or are broken, luckily I got good one


----------



## toschek

Yeah, that's how EH got on my s**t list in the first place. Bad quality control all around. Don't even get me started on what they did to the Big Muff π.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> It`s the only tube that goes so far back from my head (e: you have to have certain music to experience that, not everything sounds like that).


 
   
  Yeah I have some songs where the stereo image is so 3D that it goes far back of my head. Dave Matthews gravedigger (the version with conga intro) is one of those songs. 6922EH just extends this effect and hence makes it very nice tube especially for electronic and ambient music. AKGs are known to have great sound stage and annies are among the best headphones I've tested, but it would be nice to test different tubes with 6922EH like sound stage but slightly different stereo image.


----------



## toschek

Well, I cleaned the contacts on the 6922EH as a last ditch effort, and it seems to have resolved whatever the issue was.   Seems like it's working as intended now.    It's actually a decent tube, not as intimate as the rocket logo, but it's got a nice soundstage and excellent separation.  It isn't as WOW as the 7308 I've got, but it's good for the price.  Overall I think it is similar to my Amperex in some ways, but falls short of the real thing.   Everything you like about this tube is x5 with the Amperex plus some change, but it's a good budget alternative as long as you are aware of the caveats.
   
  I'm glad I cleaned the contacts, it'll be a good backup tube to have.


----------



## CoiL

New 6922EH with dirty contacts? Wonder if they soaked it in oil to avoid pin oxidation or something? ;D Anyway, my new EH had very clean and nice "nickel" coating pins.


----------



## toschek

Yeah there was some kind of schmutz on one of the pins, whatever it was its working & I think its pretty decent now. I'll put it about 5th in my current list.


----------



## negura

Reading through the rest of the thread, I have decided to try alternatives to the standard "upgraded" EH tube. At the moment I only have 2 tubes to compare, the EH and a Mullard ECC88, Made in Holland. I should eventually receive the Amperex, much look forward to that one as well.
   
  Having recently purchased a higher-end amp, I am only using the Aune T1 now as a DAC. In the absence of other options, I think it's doing a decent job.
   
   
  After a bit of tube rolling with the 2 above, I am not at all impressed with the default EH and I think there's a lot that the Mullard does better, such as detailing, instrument separation, better quality bass. I may update this with further observations as I get past the burn-in stage.
   
  In summary I would describe Mullard as engaging whereas when I switch back to the EH it's a bit flat and dull.


----------



## CoiL

> In summary I would describe Mullard as engaging whereas when I switch back to the EH it's a bit flat and dull.


 
  Agree with the Mullard part, it`s great tube, but don`t agree with the EH being flat and dull part. Maybe it`s from your headphones (flat sounding cans?) that can`t represent such spacious soundstage?


----------



## negura

Quote: 





coil said:


> Agree with the Mullard part, it`s great tube, but don`t agree with the EH being flat and dull part. Maybe it`s from your headphones (flat sounding cans?) that can`t represent such spacious soundstage?


 
   
  You may be right, I have compared them with the HD650s on V200 and Aune T1 as DAC. I may compare them with the Beyer T1s which have better soundstage. Also I should mention I didn't really test or comment on the soundstaging abilities in particular, I meant flat as in less dynamic than otherwise.
   
  Later edit:
  I was listening to rock/metal earlier with my HD650s, and that's where the EH wasn't doing anything for me. 
   
  Beyer T1 + EH + electronic music: Appreciate the soundstage, not so bothered about the negatives compared to Mullard
  HD650s + Mullard + rock/metal: No contest here
   
  I hope this is a more fair assessment and thanks for the suggestions.


----------



## toschek

Has anyone tried the HD 700s with the T1? Considering a headphone upgraydd. I love the Annies but I heard the 700s today and they really opened my eyes, just wondering how they'd perform. Doesn't seem like they'd deliver the max input power (400mW) at 150 ohm if what I've read of the Aune's ohm/watt relationship on the internet, and we all know everything on the internet is true.


----------



## dcfis

ohhhhh, that sounds like something I would be interested in too. I like the 702 and 650s but those 700s look spectacular. MAybe I can get a hold of one soon


----------



## xplisit

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Also this seller seems legit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-6N23P-E88CC-6DJ8-TUBES-NOS-NEW-USSR-MILITARY-FOR-AUDIO-AMP-PREAMP-VINTAGE-/170978975997?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item27cf2420fd $8 + $10 is not bad for 2 perfectly working rocket logo tubes.


 
  Might grab a pair from that seller while I wait for my Amperex 7308.


----------



## dcfis

OK, These look like what I misidentified as Shuguang
  http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/JJ-E88CC-6922
  http://www.cryoset.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=258&osCsid=e4m0cjj2bnkg77k74htqu0s6g7
   
  This JAN Phillips is prolly worth a get too
  http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/JAN-Philips-6922-Low-Noise
   
  If I were most guys here I would pick up those two and the rocket to really give a go before dropping some real money on the various amperex, mullard and teles. Seriously, Im having more luck right now with those than some really expensive Amperex


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Well, I cleaned the contacts on the 6922EH


 
   
  What's the best way to clean those pins?


----------



## Salvatore

sorry double...
   
  Edit: @toschek Dude! Not a bad idea to go for the high end senns, but please PLEASE consider of going straight for the HD800s. You can get used for decent price and they should be far superior as compared to 700s. I think 700s are overpriced and you should at least try the 800s first.


----------



## xplisit

Plugged in my Aune T1 and HD650's today and using the tube that came with it_ (electro harmonix 6922EH) _getting some hiss when I increase volume like 70%+ is this tube related? only using the 6922EH until my other tubes arrive got no other option atm.


----------



## dcfis

Tube is microphonic or your pc or unit gain is too high. Thinking about it, prolly not pc related


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





xplisit said:


> Plugged in my Aune T1 and HD650's today and using the tube that came with it_ (electro harmonix 6922EH) _getting some hiss when I increase volume like 70%+ is this tube related? only using the 6922EH until my other tubes arrive got no other option atm.


 
  Another bad-going EH tube? ;S My EH is dead quiet.
   
  About cleaning pins that have oxidation due time (NOS tubes), use 30% vinegar (not apple vinegar) + baking soda and leave it for about 30min. Clean under running water. If pins have some kind of sticky stuff, I would use Nitra-A solvent. The thing I would certainly not do is use sandpaper or some scraping method.
   
  e: I`m waiting for my Philips PCC189/7ES8 (Heerlen Holland) and Mazda (Mullard) PCC189. Got them very cheap. There are 2 more tubes I would like to get but maybe next month. Damn that money-sucking-little-black-box! -.-
   
  e2: I think I have to buy socket saver like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8pc-9pin-Gold-Vintage-Tube-Socket-Saver-6DJ8-12AX7-ECC83-12AU7-ECC82-6922-AMP-/140892378813?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item20cdd716bd
  Also, it would "kill" the LED under tube for those who don`t like it glowing.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





negura said:


> You may be right, I have compared them with the HD650s on V200 and Aune T1 as DAC. I may compare them with the Beyer T1s which have better soundstage. Also I should mention I didn't really test or comment on the soundstaging abilities in particular, I meant flat as in less dynamic than otherwise.
> 
> Later edit:
> I was listening to rock/metal earlier with my HD650s, and that's where the EH wasn't doing anything for me.
> ...


 
   
  I really like EH with certain songs / music styles, but the more I do A/Bing between EH and rocket the more I think there is something slightly off with the EH.
   
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> e2: I think I have to buy socket saver like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8pc-9pin-Gold-Vintage-Tube-Socket-Saver-6DJ8-12AX7-ECC83-12AU7-ECC82-6922-AMP-/140892378813?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item20cdd716bd
> Also, it would "kill" the LED under tube for those who don`t like it glowing.


 
   
  Nice idea. Especially for you major rollers. I might consider this myself if I end up getting lots of tubes.


----------



## mbohupa

Ok guys, I've just received the Aune T1 + 2 Tubes (Electro Harmonix 6922EH & Genalex Gold Lion E88CC/6922). I'm breaking in with a Sennheiser HD598. Totally satisfied with my purchase!!!  Will come back in a few days with my impressions of Electro Harmonix Vs Genalex.


----------



## dcfis

I don't think anyone will ever wear out that socket is a high quality ceramic. You can also pull the tube when is powered on to roll tubes without losing sync. Just turn the volume all the way down and let the new tube power up for thirty or so seconds before turning out up


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





mbohupa said:


> Ok guys, I've just received the Aune T1 + 2 Tubes (Electro Harmonix 6922EH & Genalex Gold Lion E88CC/6922). I'm breaking in with a Sennheiser HD598. Totally satisfied with my purchase!!!  Will come back in a few days with my impressions of Electro Harmonix Vs Genalex.


 

 Lookin' forward to it. Was considering the Genalex as well.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> that socket is a high quality ceramic


 
  Ceramic isn`t the part(s) that wear out and high quality doesn`t prevent wearing. Metal to metal friction will wear both pins and socket, it`s a fact. Better pay that tiny sum for socket saver than start to take apart T1 and change socket.


----------



## dcfis

I respect your opinion but I've been rolling like a fiend for over 15 years on some 40 year old amps


----------



## CoiL

I belive you but I`m kinda pedant about these little things.


----------



## zerogun

*gasp* All of a sudden my iMac won't detect the T1. I've tried restarting, switching usb ports, and usb cables. The unit warms up, and the light turns on, but it's not being detected by the iMac. Can someone please shed some insight on what I might try please?!


----------



## toschek

Are you maybe running parallels or VMware fusion?  Check your guest VM if so and see if it has taken over the T1.  You should be able to disconnect it from the menu.


----------



## zerogun

I'm afraid not. I'm only running OS X Lion at the moment 
   
  It was actually working fine for a good week or so, and then suddenly tonight it just stopped working. Nothing really different. I had installed Bit Perfect and even then it worked fine, but waking the computer just this evening proved to be an unhappy event...


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> What's the best way to clean those pins?


 
   
  I used a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> sorry double...
> 
> Edit: @toschek Dude! Not a bad idea to go for the high end senns, but please PLEASE consider of going straight for the HD800s. You can get used for decent price and they should be far superior as compared to 700s. I think 700s are overpriced and you should at least try the 800s first.


 
   
  I tried both and I preferred the sound of the 700s.  I thought the HD 800s were kind of over-resolving if that's possible.   The 700s came closer to my ideal than the 800s, but I will give them another try with my own amp.
   
  Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Are you maybe running parallels or VMware fusion?  Check your guest VM if so and see if it has taken over the T1.  You should be able to disconnect it from the menu.


 
  There was someone else who had an issue like this with their mac and it was solved by switching usb ports. If switching ports doesn't help then I don't know....The cause of the problem is currently unknown but there seems to be a problem with several USB DACs and Macs last time I did a google search on the issue.
   
  On another forum a guy had problems with his Fiio and said this worked "...hold down the option key and click the sound icon to manually select the DAC as the output device."


----------



## Salvatore

Ok I thought you had only tried 700s and hence suggested to go for the 800s. If you have tested them both then you know. I have only tested 800s couple of times and they have always wowed me.


----------



## joeq70

To zerogun:
   
  http://macs.about.com/od/usingyourmac/qt/Resetting-The-Smc-System-Management-Controller-On-Your-Mac.htm
   
   
  That article may be helpful if all else fails.
   
   
  edit:addressed wrong poster


----------



## zerogun

hmm that's something new about the Mac I didn't know  thanks guys for the responses. I ran Onyx and now its seems to have worked. Probably some associations that were wrong, and needed rebuilding. But if anyone else should run across this, and you've exhausted the physical changes, I'd suggest running Onyx to get the file system rebuilt/refreshed ...gosh I'm glad I have the sound back now...


----------



## toschek

Yeah, I liked the 800s, but I thought the treble was kind of harsh and they were too heavy for long periods of use.   The 700s seem like they have the right balance of everything I like, although I am quite apprehensive about spending $700+ on headphones.   Don't tell my wife please guys, I seriously fear for my junk right now.


----------



## dePhil

Cheers from the snowy Milan! 

toschek,
I have the HD700 (chose them over HD800) and my T1 should come on Friday - so if you would wait a couple of days, I will post impressions.
Will be using it as a tube DAC with Violectric hpa v200


----------



## toschek

Thanks dePhil.  Unfortunately I have only 3 days left to return my K 702 Annies, so I am going to go ahead and pull the trigger on these now regardless.   I hate buying blind, but I did have an hour with the 700/800s and I really fell hard for the 700s in the space of that hour.   I won't have a chance to A/B with the Annies, but based on the time I spent with the 700s I am sure I will be satisfied with them.   Going to be interesting going through the whole tube rolling process to find the best fit again.
   
  I'm sort of sad to see the Annies go, but I can't afford two sets of cans right now.   Maybe someday in the future I'll have that luxury.
   
  The Aune T1 just doesn't have the power to drive the HD 800s, and probably I will have to buy a separate amp for the 700s as well.   I believe I'll be able to get about 300mW out of the T1 at 150 ohms, which should be sufficient for now but not nearly the 400mW that these suckers demand.   Any ideas on a cheap and extremely neutral (as close to 0 coloration as possible) amp only that I can use with the T1?   Solid state is preferable in this case, I don't want any more tubes in the chain -- I'll rely on the DAC alone for the "tube sound" and the amp as standalone just driving the headphones.   Something at or under $300 is best.   I was considering the Schiit Asgard 2, any thoughts?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> I was considering the Schiit Asgard 2, any thoughts?


 
   
  How about M-stage?


----------



## toschek

M-Stage looks good two, so I have two candidates.   Any thoughts about the Asgard 2?  I haven't seen much mention of it here, M-Stage gets a fair number of mentions though.  I should probably stick to something with wider adoption.   It looks like the Asgard 2 is relatively new too.


----------



## joeq70

The T1 drives the HD800 without trouble imo.

Let me qualify that statement by saying that the T1 sounded just as good as the RSA Raptor that I A/B'd with it.


----------



## toschek

Interestingly, the m-stage on paper at least seems less powerful than the Aune or just about equal. According to Senn's specs ideally you want something with at least 400 mW at 150 Ω or better. The Aune (on paper) does 300 mW at 150 Ω. 

I was looking at getting Schiity because its a) cheaper and b) does in excess of 400mW at 150 Ω, but I have no clue as to SQ or coloration.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> The T1 drives the HD800 without trouble imo.
> 
> Let me qualify that statement by saying that the T1 sounded just as good as the RSA Raptor that I A/B'd with it.


 
  Here`s your answer. That senns statement is as good as Aune 300mW at paper, wouldn`t be so stuck on that. I would listen to guy who has actually tested it with Aune.


----------



## toschek

You don't have to be a dink about it.   I trust JoeQ70's opinion or I wouldn't have bought the Aune in the first place.   I'm sure that the Aune is sufficient to drive the HD 800, but I'm also sure that @ 150mW or so to the 500 mW or so that Sennheiser specs that you could do better than the Aune.   What I'm explicitly asking is for recommendations, not holier than thou snark.   Thanks for playing though.


----------



## CoiL

heh, some ppl are too keen into numbers on paper  Well, it`s your own decision. I wouldn`t bother to think about getting amp before I haven`t tried this can-dac/amp couple myself. If you feel shortcomings, then go for extra amp. Until that point I would stay with joeq70 opinion.


----------



## Rem0o

Quote: 





toschek said:


> You don't have to be a dink about it.   I trust JoeQ70's opinion or I wouldn't have bought the Aune in the first place.   I'm sure that the Aune is sufficient to drive the HD 800, but I'm also sure that @ 150mW or so to the 500 mW or so that Sennheiser specs that you could do better than the Aune.   What I'm explicitly asking is for recommendations, not holier than thou snark.   Thanks for playing though.


 
   
  Well, I actually have the HD 650 with the T1 (which is easier to drive than the HD800), and the T1 can't really keep up with them imo and it will go back for that reason sooner than later. Asgard 2, I'm looking at you


----------



## toschek

I found the T1/650 combo to be OK, but I returned my 650s which says something.  At this point I wonder whether my dissatisfaction with the 650 stemmed more from the crappy 6211 stock tube or whether the T1 was underpowered at 300 ohms / 150 mW when the 650s are rated to 200 mW.   It could be that some of the muddiness I experienced with the 650s was a result of power constraints.   I'm hoping to avoid this with the 700s.   I'll know soon enough, and if it is I plan to use a separate amp and keep the T1 as a DAC.
   
  The Asgard 2 will look hot with the T1 anyway, the aesthetic is pretty similar.


----------



## joeq70

Let me also say that i have no doubt that there are better amps than the T1 amp. I listened to the HD650 on the T1 as well and it seemed fine but the 650 is too laid back for my taste. I just want to point out that I think the T1 will get the job done with Senns until you spend some fairly significant money for more power and/or synergy.


----------



## toschek

Thanks Joe as always.  I think it will be just fine as is, but if it isn't I'm not going to get rid of the T1, it'll just be augmented by a different amp.


----------



## joeq70

toschek said:


> Thanks Joe as always.  I think it will be just fine as is, but if it isn't I'm not going to get rid of the T1, it'll just be augmented by a different amp.



Please keep me abreast of your findings as someday I can see myself with the HD800, the T1, and an awesome amp.


----------



## negura

My 2 cents in this: I have the HD650s and have used them with the Aune T1 for a while with various tubes. I thought it did fine, but I was on the verge of selling the HD650s due to an overall lack of excitement. Due to circumstances and other cans requiring this, an upgrade to a bigger budget amp (Vioelectric V200) got me unexpected and AMAZING results with the same good old HD650 cans. I can't state this enough, and as a lot of people have been saying around here the HD650s have impressive scaling potential as you get better equipment. 
   
  My Aune T1 is now playing the DAC role, until better prospects.
   
  Overall it puts a very worthy effort and I still have a lot of sympathy for the Aune T1, but there is simply no contest once you move up the budget chain.


----------



## dePhil

Quote: 





toschek said:


> .... The Aune T1 just doesn't have the power to drive the HD 800s, and probably I will have to buy a separate amp for the 700s as well.   I believe I'll be able to get about 300mW out of the T1 at 150 ohms, which should be sufficient for now but not nearly the 400mW that these suckers demand.   Any ideas on a cheap and extremely neutral (as close to 0 coloration as possible) amp only that I can use with the T1?   Solid state is preferable in this case, I don't want any more tubes in the chain -- I'll rely on the DAC alone for the "tube sound" and the amp as standalone just driving the headphones.   Something at or under $300 is best.   I was considering the Schiit Asgard 2, any thoughts?


 
   
   
  Well..
  Can say only good things about the Asgard, but my guess is - if additional amplification will be needed, at some point you'll end up with either a Violectric or Lehman anyway 
  I'd suggest you listen to the T1/HD700 combination alone for some time and judge for yourself. 
   
  I am also curious how it would perform as a single bedroom dac/amp - would be happy not to build anoher rig there.
   
  My main DAC is Arcam's rDac so will also post some impressions how T1 will compare there.
   
  Cheers!


----------



## dcfis

I have the hd650 and the t1 drives it great with the right tube there is no muddy bass. In fact I rarely get over 12 on the knob


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





negura said:


> My 2 cents in this: I have the HD650s and have used them with the Aune T1 for a while with various tubes. I thought it did fine, but I was on the verge of selling the HD650s due to an overall lack of excitement. Due to circumstances and other cans requiring this, an upgrade to a bigger budget amp (Vioelectric V200) got me unexpected and AMAZING results with the same good old HD650 cans. I can't state this enough, and as a lot of people have been saying around here the HD650s have impressive scaling potential as you get better equipment.
> 
> My Aune T1 is now playing the DAC role, until better prospects.
> 
> Overall it puts a very worthy effort and I still have a lot of sympathy for the Aune T1, but there is simply no contest once you move up the budget chain.


 
   
  Thanks, tell me about violectric's sound if you don't mind.  Is it free from coloration?  Does it alter the output in any other ways - soundstage, transients, etc.?  Thanks a bunch.


----------



## dcfis

The Lake People amp and dac also looks great for the price too. I'm still trying to determine how good the aune dac is. Wish I still had a dac1to compare it to


----------



## Salvatore

Violectric sure seems nice but is it really a budget amp?


----------



## CoiL

toschek, if you haven`t read yet: http://www.head-fi.org/t/551173/review-violectric-hpa-v200-amp
   
  But yeah, imo it isn´t *budget* amp, it`s class foward.
   
  e: Btw, have been watching movies/serials through Aune T1 some days now (with 6N23P reflector) and listened littlebit music before switching back to amperex for real music enjoyment - that reflector is "crap" compared to amperex I have! It has very narrow soundstage in every direction, very foward sounding, overall soundstage is "dull & dry" sounding and like listening through some "fabric wall", roughly said like listening "mono". It makes me wonder if rocket logo is so much different? I think I should try rockets just for comparing.


----------



## negura

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Thanks, tell me about violectric's sound if you don't mind.  Is it free from coloration?  Does it alter the output in any other ways - soundstage, transients, etc.?  Thanks a bunch.


 
   
  It's difficult to be very precise about the V200 as I am still using the Aune T1 as a DAC, and the T1 adds colouration to begin with, also depending on the lamp I am using. The other side of the coin is that this is quite fun to experiment with. 
   
  But naturally I have been comparing the V200 (still breaking in) with the Aune T1 by trying to match the volume and simply switching the headphone plug between the two which is quite easy. In effect I am comparing the amplifier part of the T1 with the V200. Of course, I never expected this to be a fair fight considering the price gap between the two and the only reason I mentioned this is that someone was considering changing headphones and I was at that point myself not long ago.
   
  I would say the V200 is on the so slightly darker/warmer side of neutral.  It doesn't take a long listen to notice the V200 is one or two classes above the T1 and it really opens up the HD650s. It helps bring out the treble (but no sibilance and such) and makes the sound more dynamic and better detailed. It also adds to the soundstage. Given that some of those are the weaker points of the HD650s the overall result is great.
   
  P.S.: When I said a bigger budget, I didn't mean to say the V200 is a budget option. It's clearly not, at around 700 GBP new, but can definitely make cans sing. What I have at home at the moment are the Beyer T1s and Senn HD650s and both sound greatly improved. On a side note I am actually now enjoying my HD650s more than the T1s, but this is my personal bias due to the music genres I mostly listen to.
   
  My personal conclusion out of this is: 
  less expensive headphones + great amp > flagship headphones + budget amp


----------



## CoiL

negura, you should try T1 with Tesla PCC88 (yellow logo, 32, made in czech, tiny thick ring getter) with your HD650, it might also help to bring out more highs. These should be same as I have: http://www.tubemonger.com/MINT_NOS_Tesla_PCC88_1971_Tesla_Ro_nov_VrchlabiCOS_p/836-cos.htm
   
  e: I have like 1st one on this pic: http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/9yms2.j7rx4/v/vspfiles/photos/1019-2.jpg?1359372946


----------



## negura

Quote: 





coil said:


> negura, you should try T1 with Tesla PCC88 (yellow logo, 32, made in czech, tiny thick ring getter) with your HD650, it might also help to bring out more highs. These should be same as I have: http://www.tubemonger.com/MINT_NOS_Tesla_PCC88_1971_Tesla_Ro_nov_VrchlabiCOS_p/836-cos.htm
> 
> e: I have like 1st one on this pic: http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/9yms2.j7rx4/v/vspfiles/photos/1019-2.jpg?1359372946


 
   
  Great, will check it out, should complement my set very nicely. And as I have a pair of Audeze LCD-2s on the way, it should help with those too. I know I am going against my own advice here and I should have probably upgraded the DAC first, but I couldn't pass this deal.


----------



## CoiL

In case you missed my impressions about that tube:


> Got my Tesla PCC88, same as shown and described here: jda1951.xanga.com/770095693/tesla-pcc88/
> Had it inside T1 only like 10min, so can`t give accurate feedback atm but it`s pretty much like it says on the link above:
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## negura

I went ahead and purchased a pair of these as I reckon it's not bad pricing for a NOS pair.
   
  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181074929083?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
   
  There's another pair left, same seller, different listing, if anyone is interested.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> e: Btw, have been watching movies/serials through Aune T1 some days now (with 6N23P reflector) and listened littlebit music before switching back to amperex for real music enjoyment - that reflector is "crap" compared to amperex I have! It has very narrow soundstage in every direction, very foward sounding, overall soundstage is "dull & dry" sounding and like listening through some "fabric wall", roughly said like listening "mono". It makes me wonder if rocket logo is so much different? I think I should try rockets just for comparing.


 
   
  I guess reflector and rocket shouldn't sound so much different and my rocket doesn't sound even remotely as bad as you described. It is narrower and more forward sounding than the EH for sure, but it definitely doesn't make it sound bad or even monoish. I find it very pleasurable and balanced, especially for blues and rock. Maybe you should get these and compare: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-6N23P-E88CC-6DJ8-TUBES-NOS-NEW-USSR-MILITARY-FOR-AUDIO-AMP-PREAMP-VINTAGE-/170978975997?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item27cf2420fd
   
  Btw what tubes would you recommend for me to try. I wouldn't mind trying something with EH like sound stage. EH is very close of being the tube of choice for me, but like I've been drawing here there seems to be something wrong with the imaging (I have to emphasize that this is personal since most members here seem to love that tube and don't find these issues).
   
  Side note: I have 2 of those rockets and have only briefly A/Bing them once I got them. During this testing I thought the other tube sounded better and have been using that one ever since. Maybe I should do some more comparison to see if there are indeed any noticeable differences.
   
  Edit: Would somebody be interested of loaning/switching tubes. The don't weight too much so it would be cheap to send them around. This way we don't need to buy all the tubes we want to test.


----------



## CoiL

negura, I bought mine from same seller  
   
  Salvatore, all I said was put in "" and exaggerated but you get the point. I`m not trying to say that 6N23P reflektor is bad but compared to amperex it`s just no-go for my personal taste and hearing. Rock/metal/progressive/classical guitar etc. - all sound much much better with amperex.
   
  Only tube I have with very similiar soundstage to EH is Tungsram PCC88, read my earlier impressions in this thread. 
   
  E: Salvatore, seems our locations are not so far apart, maybe I`ll consider changing tubes with you 
   
   
   
  e2: Unbelievable! Bought 1 NOS Mazda (Mullard) PCC189 from eBay for 5£. Dispatched today and got this PM:


> Hi
> Thanks for payment,I have sent you 2 as I found another one,you can have this for free,please leave good feedback
> Thanks Gareth


 
  O_o ...there`s still generous and good ppl left in the world! I think I`ll make him another payment if I like these tubes! 
  One of my ideologic principles - do good and you`ll find good!


----------



## dcfis

Awesome. Somebody please try the jj


----------



## CoiL

This one? -> http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/JJ-E88CC-6922
   
  e: 
   
  hey Aune T1 owners - raise the popularity of T1! -> http://www.head-fi.org/t/643537/dac-popularity-check-2013-edition/105#post_9153058


----------



## dcfis

That's the one, just to make sure I'm not crazy. So far it's the favorite of mine on the hd650. Great texture and very smooth


----------



## Grevlin

I want to thank the Aune T1 for bringing me back to the Dave Matthews Band.
   
  Back in my college days, I was a loyal fan. I had a huge collection of CD's of many bands, but lost the whole thing. There was a girl involved, and YES, it was worth it all the pain and collateral damage...
   
   
  ...but I digress.
   
   
  I recently replaced the main two - Crash and Under the table and dreaming. (Been snatching up lots of "old" albums from back in my younger years)
   
  WOW 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   
  Epic through my rig. Almost a single tear rolls down my cheek.
   
   
   
  And so continues the recent drain to my wallet.


----------



## Rem0o

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> I have the hd650 and the t1 drives it great with the right tube there is no muddy bass. In fact I rarely get over 12 on the knob


 
  The problem isn't with the tube since it is part of the dac and I used different DACs with the amp circuit of the T1. Still had muddy bass everytime. That 500 Ohm peak is really hard to drive properly.


----------



## CoiL

Well, with my HD681, HD662F and speakers I haven`t heard "muddy" bass... guess it`s HD650 sexual unmatch with T1. 
   
  Grevlin, still haven`t got your Amperex?


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> Well, with my HD681, HD662F and speakers I haven`t heard "muddy" bass... guess it`s HD650 sexual unmatch with T1.
> 
> Grevlin, still haven`t got your Amperex?


 

 Nope
   
   
  I've received moon rocks faster.
   
  But I'm assured its "in the mail."


----------



## dcfis

I'd try it with the aune dac There is no muddy bass. I have to imagine that the aune amp is designed specifically for a tube buffered input firstly. Also why not utilize the the actual selling point of the aune. If you wanted just a regular ss amp there are better for the money.


----------



## dePhil

toschek,
   
  I guess I somewhat betrayed the the team - yesterday traded my Violectric/HD700 combo for WA6/HD800.
   
  Anyway - cant wait now for the T1 to arrive and see how the valve dac will perform with the valve amp


----------



## dcfis

Cool what were you not getting from the HD700?


----------



## mbohupa

Hi Guys, I'm experimenting with my brand new T1. I'm still listening & comparing Electro Harmonix 6922H vs Genalex Gold Lion E88CC/6922. My HP is a Sennheiser HD598. So far so good, I like more the Genalex. It's really detailed, the soundstage is big, there is a good equilibrium between the bass, mids and highs. I'm totally satisfied with the Genalex.


----------



## CoiL

mbohupa, please try to bring out more head-to-head differences. You say that soundstage is big but how is it exactly compared to EH... vertical saundstage is same? Centerpoint of listener? Wideness? air & room reverb? Vocals? ...and so on. I`m also interested about gold lion but need more impressions.


----------



## Gr3g277

Hi Guys,
   
  I own The T1 for about a month ago, and now that I have some time listening with it, I would like to update my impressions.
   
  I Have a k271mkII and I got myself a hd650 for a nice price. I have the rocket logo 6n23p the 6922EH and I've found a used E188CC from RTC( suresnes factory ) early 70's.
   
  First I must say the T1 drive the Hd650 very well, it is clear in the high, beautiful mids, bass is controlled ( depending on the tube ), with the fiio e11, my hd650 sounds very dark and somewhat dull, clearly underpowered. It still plays very loud, but it doesn't have the control of the T1.
   
  For tubes now.
   
*The 6n23p* is very close/front sounding, it manages a good separation in instruments, but doesn't feel open, it's almost like the hd650 was a closed can. The mids are very good, a little grainy with good presence in the lower mids, male voices sounds very good !, treble are a bit too much some times with the akg. Very present and bodied bass, but muddy and not so controlled, sounds pleasing at first, but becomes unreadable with some fast metal for example.
  I have to say, that i feel my tube is not a good one, because I have a lot of microphonics, if I tap gently with a pen on it while playing, i can hear a ringing, also when not playing i have crackling noise with volume to 11o clock for example. And i Can't put a +3db equ on any frequ without distortion...
   
*The 6922EH *is a more clean tube, still microphonic with resonance in the treble, but definetely more soundstage than 6n23p.
  It lacks the body of the russian tube, bass is less present, but more controlled, mids are nice, but less than the russian, and the treble is too much with hd650 and overwhelming with akg. it sounds good with calm electro like the panta du prince ( thanks for that link   )and some atmospheric music. 
   
*The E188CC wow *  That's the real deal guys !
   
  soundstag is amazing, it keeps the front presentation, and add width and depth to it, really cool, mids are wonderful, voices are so natural, no more harshness in the treble, very detailed and smooth presentation, bass is tight and goes deeper, but a bit less present, dynamics are better also, no more microphonics or noise thanks to it's mica springs, With both the senn and the akg, these are the winners to my ears, no doubt about it... with any kind of music 
   
  Remember it is subjective, and only my ears impressions


----------



## Salvatore

Could you please give me a link to where you got that E188CC tube. Same goes with mbohuba and his gold lion.


----------



## CoiL

Genalex gold lion is quite widely available: http://www.cryoset.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_24&products_id=317&osCsid=e4m0cjj2bnkg77k74htqu0s6g7


----------



## Gr3g277

I picked a used one from a french reseller on ebay, The nos ones are going nuts in price, I've found that particular one for 30€ measured at 95%
   
  Just beware of the measurements, and that the code one glass is starting by VR


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





gr3g277 said:


> I picked a used one from a french reseller on ebay, The nos ones are going nuts in price, I've found that particular one for 30€ measured at 95%
> 
> Just beware of the measurements, and that the code one glass is starting by VR


 
   
  Oui je les ai vues ces annonces .. et je les ai eu en suivi sur ebay pendant un moment. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  For english readers: I couldn't resist to spek in french to my countryman 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . i followed in my ebay the tubes he purchased   and from my experience, my E188CC is my best tube too. the more detailed , balanced , natural , tamed trebles , bodied and textured mids , clean and extended bass ... it's not impressible but it just seems this tube plays music the right way


----------



## Salvatore

Could you share if you know some legit ebay seller.


----------



## CoiL

Swetting @ eBay auction - who has more money ;D Keep away from my E188CC! ;D
   
  e: just kidding, I`m hunting another amperex single support leg dimple disc for backup


----------



## toschek

Well guys, I am at a crossroads here. I picked up a Schiit Lyr today for a really good price and well .... I guess I could go two ways now. On the one hand, I could keep the T1 and use it as a DAC going forward, or I could pick up a separate DAC (ODAC comes to mind). The Lyr is exciting because I already have matched Amperex 7308s for it, with Telefunken 6922/ECC88s on the way. If I move the 7308s over to the Lyr though, I am thinking I really don't want to have tubes in the DAC and amp stages, the coloration will probably be off and I really don't want to buy another 7308 to have all three tubes the same (or do I? Maybe there's a case for it?). 

Anyway, I wanted to get your opinions here. Keep the T1 or buy a different DAC and put the T1 up for sale? What do you guys think?

EDIT: Bought the ODAC, will try both and keep the one that works best with this setup. Would anyone want to buy the T1 if I put it up for sale? I'll throw in a rocket logo 6N23P, 6N11 & 6922EH --- all together w/ shipping in the continental US for $200 (I'll even cover paypal).


----------



## dcfis

There is excellent reason to keep the t1 and that is the tube buffer. All tube in everything its what I say


----------



## negura

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Well guys, I am at a crossroads here. I picked up a Schiit Lyr today for a really good price and well .... I guess I could go two ways now. On the one hand, I could keep the T1 and use it as a DAC going forward, or I could pick up a separate DAC (ODAC comes to mind). The Lyr is exciting because I already have matched Amperex 7308s for it, with Telefunken 6922/ECC88s on the way. If I move the 7308s over to the Lyr though, I am thinking I really don't want to have tubes in the DAC and amp stages, the coloration will probably be off and I really don't want to buy another 7308 to have all three tubes the same (or do I? Maybe there's a case for it?).
> 
> Anyway, I wanted to get your opinions here. Keep the T1 or buy a different DAC and put the T1 up for sale? What do you guys think?
> 
> EDIT: Bought the ODAC, will try both and keep the one that works best with this setup. Would anyone want to buy the T1 if I put it up for sale? I'll throw in a rocket logo 6N23P, 6N11 & 6922EH --- all together w/ shipping in the continental US for $200 (I'll even cover paypal).


 
   
  Congrats on the Lyr - it's a great amp within its range.
 I was at a similar crossroads and decided to skip the Lyr if making a new investement and take it another level up. I think it's more effective and a better return than otherwise.  Also I consider that between its DAC and amp traits the T1 is better as a DAC + the fun/advantages of tube rolling. For now I still use the Aune T1 as a DAC, but I will go straight for something higher up the chain, like the V800 next.
  
 I guess it also depends on your existing and near/mid future headphones and what synergy you're getting for them with your equipment.


----------



## negura

Duplicated.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





negura said:


> Congrats on the Lyr - it's a great amp within its range.
> I was at a similar crossroads and decided to skip the Lyr if making a new investement and take it another level up. I think it's more effective and a better return than otherwise.  Also I consider that between its DAC and amp traits the T1 is better as a DAC + the fun/advantages of tube rolling. For now I still use the Aune T1 as a DAC, but I will go straight for something higher up the chain, like the V800 next.
> 
> I guess it also depends on your existing and near/mid future headphones and what synergy you're getting for them with your new amp.


 
   
  The deal I got on the Lyr was INSANE.  I'm quite pleased with my purchase.   It'll last me forever basically, if I ever go Ortho it'll be there, it'll work great with my current headphones and the HD 700s I have on the way.   I've heard excellent things about the ODAC as well, it compares favorably to the Bifrost which costs about $300 more for a USB version too.   I am pretty sure I'm going to have to let the T1 go, but it'll find a good home I'm sure.
   
  Tubes all the way is fun, but I don't want to buy another Amperex 7308 right now & I definitely don't want to splash out on more Tele 6922s at the moment.   Any future money to this is going into headphones or source components (maybe a nicer phono pre-amp).   I think an exceptionally clean solid state preamp  running to the Lyr will be a winning combo & I can finally plug my turntable through the pre-amp into the amp and skip the current hop through a USB mixer (which I am pretty sure is degrading the sound, I can hear audible artifacts).


----------



## negura

Using your Aune T1 as a DAC, how much improvement are you hearing with the Lyr and how would you describe it?
   
I think this may help people reading this thread when they get on the fence of upgrading as I suspect many will eventually reach that point.


----------



## toschek

Dunno yet, Lyr won't be here for a few days.   I will let everyone know though.   Maybe it will rule?  Who knows.   I'm going to put both the 7308s I have into the Lyr and use one of my ECC88 Bugle Boys and also one of my Telefunken 6922s to run the T1 when I try it, that will be as close as I can get without buying another 7308.


----------



## toschek

BTW, Telefunken 6922s came in today.   OMG, this thing shames the Amperex 7308.   I can even hear the singer's breathing.   And the soundstage is even more 3D than the 7308 was.   These are damn expensive but worth every penny I say.


----------



## Salvatore

Hey when you got your amperex from upscaleaudio did you get to choose the label (white, green or yellow logo)? Btw just ordered gold lion and placed bids on few other tubes as well.


----------



## dcfis

White for gods sake!


----------



## dcfis

I've never run across anything to sham an amperex. Not even the pinched waist tubes. I sold all my teles because I didn't prefer them in a different application. Wouldn't mind trying again


----------



## toschek

No, I did not ... on the other hand I didn't ask either.   I have a green and white, but they are matched electrically according to the guy there, and I believe him.  I spent some time switching between the white and green and after a long time I determined there's no difference in the sound.   I had my wife listen too, she's got much better hearing than I do and she agrees as well.
   
  You can probably call or email them and ask for a specific label, they are very nice people.
   
  I need to get my expense check back so I can buy more Telefunken ... WOW.   The sound sounds like it is coming from behind me, like a complete surround system.


----------



## toschek

Maybe I am just receptive to a change, I'm not sure.   These are beautiful though.   Really great soundstage, seems wider than the 7308.


----------



## Salvatore

I don't mind the logo, just remember you saying the white JAN logo to sound better. Are you saying to go for the tele before amperex? Just put couple of tele auctions on ebay wish list.
   
  Fully enjoying rocket atm. Man this is sweet sounding tube. Lush and addictive sound with nice instrumental separation totally compensates the diminished sound stage. Somebody said the rocket to have muddy bass... have to disagree.


----------



## CoiL

Tele vs. amperex is imo the matter of taste. Amperex are generally warmer sounding and teles are more neutral ones. I also remeber toschek say that white logo sounds better, so how is it at the end? Pseudo-effect? 
   
  Like I told earlier, I don`t have rockets but reflector should be quite same. For me, compared to amperex, it is somewhat "muddy", actually not the bass but the whole sound is like listening through somekind "blanket" and its narrow and very foward sounding. With amperex intimacy stays but everything gets so clear & detail, added depth, air & room response, wider soundstage in every direction and you can hear every breath singer takes & emotion he/she puts in the voice. But it all depends also about music style and personal taste.


----------



## toschek

The 6H23P-EB has muddyish bass, the 6N23P (rocket) doesn't if I remember correctly.
   
  If you're happy with the rocket, there's no reason to get one of these other tubes.   They do have better soundstage/imaging, and tighter dynamics but the premium is really steep.   The rocket's soundstage feels a little cramped after going back to it from one of these others, but that is kind of it's charm too; I don't think you'd get that intimacy with it if the soundstage was bigger.
   
  Both of the JAN tubes I have, white and green, sound exactly the same.  I thought they were different at first, but I think I was getting some interference somewhere. I don't think the label color really matters at all except if you have OCD.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





coil said:


> Tele vs. amperex is imo the matter of taste. Amperex are generally warmer sounding and teles are more neutral ones. I also remeber toschek say that white logo sounds better, so how is it at the end? Pseudo-effect?
> 
> Like I told earlier, I don`t have rockets but reflector should be quite same. For me, compared to amperex, it is somewhat "muddy", actually not the bass but the whole sound is like listening through somekind "blanket" and its narrow and very foward sounding. With amperex intimacy stays but everything gets so clear & detail, added depth, air & room response, wider soundstage in every direction and you can hear every breath singer takes & emotion he/she puts in the voice. But it all depends also about music style and personal taste.


 
   
  Totally pseudo effect, I think I had some problems upstream in my signal that made me think it was the tube.   I moved all my equipment around recently and tried it again and I think the green is exactly 100% the same as the white.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> If you're happy with the rocket, there's no reason to get one of these other tubes.   They do have better soundstage/imaging, and tighter dynamics but the premium is really steep.   The rocket's soundstage feels a little cramped after going back to it from one of these others, but that is kind of it's charm too; I don't think you'd get that intimacy with it if the soundstage was bigger.
> 
> Both of the JAN tubes I have, white and green, sound exactly the same.  I thought they were different at first, but I think I was getting some interference somewhere. I don't think the label color really matters at all except if you have OCD.


 
   
  I like rocket but for longer run I'd definitely want something more open. Maybe after "analytical" E17 I just enjoy having this intimate warm sounding tube. EH isn't the best tube for me, but I'm confident the right tube is somewhere out there waiting for me 
   
  I also first thought my two rockets sound different, but after more careful evaluation I have to say they sound close to identical. It's really hard to compare similar sounding tubes, especially since it takes relatively long time to change and warm the tube.


----------



## CoiL

Aaaarghhh... this tube hoarding is making me nuts. I made quite big bids on 3 E188CC`s. Hopefully will lose some auction, otherwise will end up with empty wallet ;D
   
  toschek, congrats on Lyr! This is the league too expensive for me (talking guy who is going nuts with tubes ;D ). What I really wanted to find out in the beginning was if Aune T1 is a good match with HD-681 mkII - yes it is very good match. Other option would have been E17 but since I didn`t care about portability went for T1. Glad I did, been loving tube sound very long time and looking back, it was the only way to go. I think there isn`t another offering in that price range that could offer same that Aune T1 does. And pairing it with HD-681mkII is really a top-notch-bang-for-a-buck setup (even with ugrade version 6922EH tube)! 
   
  e:
   
  Get those E188CC`s while you can, I`m going for others: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-E188CC-MULLARD-RTC-BRAND-DIMPLE-DISC-GETTER-GOLD-MATCHED-CRYOTREATED-/310587940337?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D5592029622060888096%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D310587940337%26
   
  Got myself another Amperex backup and 2 other possible E188CC candidates


----------



## mbohupa

Hello CoiL! I´ll try to give my impressions, still a newbie in Head-Fi.
   
  IMO, the soundstage of Genalex E88CC is taller and wider than the Electro Harmonix 6922H. It's more airy, open! The vocals are more natural! I feel the 6922H is more fatiguing than the Genalex.
   
  I bought this tube from Quartz Acoustics (Singapur) http://www.quartzacoustic.com/?product=genalex-gold-lion-e88cc6922-pre-amp-tube
   
  Now I´m looking forward to purchase the 6N23P Rocket Logo, and hope to buy the Amperex 7308 in the not so distant future.


----------



## CoiL

Damn that Genalex Gold Lion is so tempting! -.- Got to say NO atm because I decided to buy stereo reciever and build my own stereo speaker system.
   
  e:
   
  Who was the "person" who grabbed it on last second from me?! -.- 
  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230924147070?ssPageName=STRK:MEDWX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1435.l2649


----------



## mbohupa

You're right CoiL, it's really tempting!!! Congrats for the new stereo system!


----------



## negura

coil said:


> Aaaarghhh... this tube hoarding is making me nuts. I made quite big bids on 3 E188CC`s. Hopefully will lose some auction, otherwise will end up with empty wallet ;D


 
   
  Thy wish be done!
   
   
  Quote:


coil said:


> Damn that Genalex Gold Lion is so tempting! -.- Got to say NO atm because I decided to buy stereo reciever and build my own stereo speaker system.
> 
> e:
> 
> ...


 
   
  Sorry mate, but this one was indeed a "steal". I thought you have an Amperex already? 
   
  Good news is I am now out of the way and I hope you'll find another one soon. If not, I am waiting for another Amperex from Israel, a bit used, but that's taking forever to arrive. If you still need one, I can PM you when I get it. I paid quite a bit more on that one though, about 13 pounds.


----------



## CoiL

Naah, no problem, just wanted that for backup  Btw, I`m still not sure if it was the same amperex I have (single support leg dimple disc getter), because it was hard to see from picture. If it`s same then congrats, it should be very good and rare tube!


----------



## negura

Quote: 





coil said:


> Naah, no problem, just wanted that for backup  Btw, I`m still not sure if it was the same amperex I have (single support leg dimple disc getter), because it was hard to see from picture. If it`s same then congrats, it should be very good and rare tube!


 
   
  Can you point me to a better pic of the tube version you mention? So to compare when I receive it, as I am not that familiar with the varieties of this model.


----------



## CoiL

This tube: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230899559453?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## mbohupa

Ok guys! I finally bit the bullet and bought a Amperex 7308 Gold Pin (Driver Grade, Cryo) from Upscale Audio: http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html; I'll post my impressions in a couple of days.


----------



## walfredo

Anyone has tried the Tesla PCC88 red logo?  (I found references to a yellow logo.)
   
I mean, this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290607198682?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





mbohupa said:


> Ok guys! I finally bit the bullet and bought a Amperex 7308 Gold Pin (Driver Grade, Cryo) from Upscale Audio: http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html; I'll post my impressions in a couple of days.


 
   
  Awesome, I wonder how a driver grade tube will fare in this application though?   Hope it works out for you.   Cryo isn't really needed here either, but it certainly won't hurt anything.


----------



## toschek

Schiit Lyr will be here on Wednesday, can't wait to see how matched Amperex 7308s & Telefunken CCa tubes do in a gain stage rather than a buffer.   One of these days I'm going to find me some Lorenz 6922's, I've read a lot of gushing on these in the Lyr Tube Rolling thread (which by the way is a great resource for T1 owners since the Lyr uses the same tubes.)
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/549508/schiit-lyr-the-tube-rolling-thread


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> Anyone has tried the Tesla PCC88 red logo?  (I found references to a yellow logo.)
> 
> I mean, this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290607198682?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


 
  1st of all, its JJ not real Tesla, 2nd it`s not PCC88, it`s E88CC/6922. And yes, I think it was in the previous page in this thread where someone said it`s really good.


----------



## mbohupa

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Awesome, I wonder how a driver grade tube will fare in this application though?   Hope it works out for you.   Cryo isn't really needed here either, but it certainly won't hurt anything.


 
   
  According to Upscale Audio, the Driver Grade has enough quality for the output/buffer stage of a DAC or CD Player. http://www.upscaleaudio.com/pages/Testing-Small-Signal-Tubes.html 
   
  " DAC/Driver grade
  Tubes that are low in noise, but not lowest in microphony. There are some tubes that will never be low in microphonics... this is by design. Usually these tubes are used in a circuit where they don't need to be low in microphony, such as the driver stage of an amplifier, or an output buffer in a DAC or CD player. In these circuits, purchasing a low microphony tube will not yield any performance benefits, so take advantage of the lower price, and take your sweety out for a nice meal."
   
  So, I hope they're right, so I can have the great Amperex 7308 for an excellent price (USD 70 incl. shipping).


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Schiit Lyr will be here on Wednesday, can't wait to see how matched Amperex 7308s & Telefunken CCa tubes do in a gain stage rather than a buffer.   One of these days I'm going to find me some Lorenz 6922's, I've read a lot of gushing on these in the Lyr Tube Rolling thread - http://www.head-fi.org/t/549508/schiit-lyr-the-tube-rolling-thread (which by the way is a great resource for T1 owners since the Lyr uses the same tubes.)


 
   
  Thx for the link I'll start digging into that. Oh and btw the link doesn't work unless the last empty space is removed.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Thx for the link I'll start digging into that. Oh and btw the link doesn't work unless the last empty space is removed.


 
   
  Thanks for letting me know, link is fixed on the original post, and here it is again:
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/549508/schiit-lyr-the-tube-rolling-thread


----------



## CoiL

Bought these ones: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251202501143?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
   
  Still waiting for my other NOS PCC189 tubes (2x Mullard-Mazda & 1 Philips Heerlen). I think Philips and those Lorenz`s might be actually same but different branded. Haven`t done research but we`ll see (hear). Hope they sound great, then I`ll have nice backup  
   
  e: It`s offtopic but Volor Flex released new album - Unlit. Listen/buy here: store.darkclover.ro/album/unlit or main page: http://store.darkclover.ro/
  I don`t know the name of style but its atmospheric-minimalistic-melodic-electronic kind of music. Sounds like Burial. With 6922EH - eargasm!
  Of course if you tolerate this kind of music. Anyway it`s not like typical dull techno-beat music... if you bother to listen littlebit, it might get addictive


----------



## dcfis

Nobody gotten the jj yet?


----------



## CoiL

Not yet. If I find EU seller (with ok price) then maybe going to buy it. Lots of tubes coming soon for me and don`t want to buy any more atm.


----------



## dcfis

OK Moving up a tier in the tube stash. So far the ranking in  terms of the first tier to my ears and tastes are- AKG 702 is better with this amp than the HD650. The HD650 has textured mids and layered bass but I hate the right on your nose presentation. Ive heard them sound much better with other amps. It can change a bit with the tube used but not drastically so far.
   
  This application is nearly 180 degrees from my impressions of each tube in the other applications I have them for. Both in pre amps, and as buffers for dacs. Its kinda perplexing but at the same time a blessing in disguise as some of the tubes I would have thrown away sometimes sound best in this application
   
  JJ-$- Pulled out my notes, this is an early production of the modern JJ which is a Tesla copy. Should pick up the real NOS with these being such a good all around tube. So far as I know the very current ones havent changed much and should produce similar results which is decent soundstaging and some depth, though its a bit shallow, punchy bass with just a nice bit of bloom. The mids and voices are well presented but a touch hard. This might be too much for some. The highs especially top hats and snare strikes can be eye blinking. The neutral fiends will like this tube from top to bottom. Able to provide some air to the 702 instruments.
   
  Amperex PQ orange 6922/ Amperex 6dj8 Bugle boy--$$$$/$$Second best is a brighter and more spacious presentation with the PQ and a warmer and more congested presentation with the bugle boy. I spent the least time with these as I plan to do a Amprerex roundup later. Honestly I thought this was going to be about just a couple of tubes and the Amperex would wipe the floor with everything except the rare exotics such as pinched waists (wasnt even going to try as this is a budget little amp and I didnt think they were worth the price is my home Dac which is worth 8x this thing) Its perplexing as they have some flaws so far such as sloppy bass, too extreme or too congested presentations and those super sweet mids havent been present. I will return to these.
   
  Ediswan CV2492- $$$- Nice all arounder and for sure could help some phones with a sloppy bass to tighten up. Has a smoother midrange than the JJ and the highs are sweeter. To me thats not what Im after but for sure some listeners want a smooth and sweet tone with good staging and a little more depth than the JJ. Nothing really wows or stands out and to many thats exactly how it should be. 
   
  JAN Phillips Green label- $$- This is a tube I hate in most applications and I preferred it more on the HD650. It livened it up but the HD650 didnt take on the JANs usually dry and clinical tone. A nice analytical tube. Like that smoky jazz bar but with a light turned on. It would be a good tube to start with to get a baseline for other tubes. Its kinda like an EH with a better presented soundstage and character. 
   
  EH-$- You all know this one. 
   
  Moving UP!
   
  Mullard Dimple Discs Gold and regular pins, wire and flat supports- $$$$-$$$- Um, had this on for the last hour. Things are moving along!
   
  EI- Yugo NOS-$$
   
  Earliest Amperex orange 6dj8s- vairous grades $$$$-$$$$$ - the best of these are really amazing in other applications. Makes me sad for all those 7308 and later Amperex listeners. In this application though so far we see anything can happen. My ACE tube for years
   
  Siemens- E88CC gold halo and A frame- $$$$$/$$$$$- http://www.tube-classics.de/TC/Tubes/SieTel%20E88CC/E88CC.htm- Told you we are getting serious. 
   
  Overall, having lots of fun and I really feel the Aune offers a ton of bang for the buck. Great product that has lots of drive and a neutral-ish base to start with. Time will tell if its just the right pairings to totally flesh out that midrange and provide real high end smoothness and detail to the top end but it stages like a champ. I want someone to put some nice coupling caps in this thing! Its worth it!
   
  $- $10-$30
  $$- $30-65
  $$$-$65-$100
  $$$$- $100-$135
  $$$$$-$135+


----------



## HolyCheese

Hey, Anyone know which cheap tube is best with very dark cans? Cans like the x1?


----------



## dcfis

You arent liking the EH? I dont know those cans but the JJ or the JAN Phillips would seem to be good depending on what you needed


----------



## HolyCheese

I don't have my T1 yet 
  I'm getting way ahead of myself actually.
  I don't even have the x1 atm since they broke -.-
   
  Is there a full list of every supported tube somewhere? I have seen a HUGE list of possibilities


----------



## dcfis

*6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 7DJ8, PCC88, 6N27P, E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8*
   
*Courtesy of Coil*


----------



## HolyCheese

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> *6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 7DJ8, PCC88, 6N27P, E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8*
> 
> *Courtesy of Coil*


 
  Arigato! Might be nice if this list were to be added in the first post.


----------



## CoiL

Quote:


> Earliest Amperex orange 6dj8s- vairous grades $$$$-$$$$$ - the best of these are really amazing in other applications. Makes me sad for all those 7308 and later Amperex listeners. In this application though so far we see anything can happen. My ACE tube for years


 
  Are those single leg dimple disc? My 1969` should be white labeled (only little white pieces left from logo and seeable delta code) but I`ve seen single leg dimple disc`s with orange logo too. Both are very hard to get hands on.
  Anyway, I just won`t get tired saying that this tube is really really good, best I have for every kind of music genre (especially for rock/metal/progressive/jazz).
  I hope negura got the same one I have, he grabbed it in front of my nose from ebay but the picture was bad and we don`t know yet if it`s the same tube.


----------



## dcfis

dimple discs were made later so no, they are small and large halos. I have to call my tube guy but Im not so sure some of the mullard and dimple disc Amprerex are getting confused and are the same


----------



## CoiL

Quote:



> The type GAC has the large dimple disc getter on a single leg support and was made after the Bugle boy O ring getter and before the A frame support large dimpled disc valve type GAE.


 
  My Amperex is GAC delta9F3. Whats written on yours?


----------



## dcfis

GAB Delta 7A4


----------



## Headphonus

I am really interested in the amp, but am unsure as to how I would hook it up to my tt. Could I use it as a pre amp, ie have the output going to my pioneer reciever and then listen through that?


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





headphonus said:


> I am really interested in the amp, but am unsure as to how I would hook it up to my tt. Could I use it as a pre amp, ie have the output going to my pioneer reciever and then listen through that?


 

 I wondered the same thing. I'm pretty sure the point of the T1 is that it's a DAC that uses a tube.
   
  Since the TT is analog, the T1 wont do you much good as a digital audio converter. You'll need a pre-amp that uses a tube for a TT.
   
  I think you could route the TT through a laptop - but then...what is the point. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   
  ...I'm actually probably ordering a TT and pre-amp today. I'm going with the Cambridge Audio Azur 551P for a pre-amp.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





coil said:


> Another bad-going EH tube? ;S My EH is dead quiet.
> 
> About cleaning pins that have oxidation due time (NOS tubes), use 30% vinegar (not apple vinegar) + baking soda and leave it for about 30min. Clean under running water. If pins have some kind of sticky stuff, I would use Nitra-A solvent. The thing I would certainly not do is use sandpaper or some scraping method.
> 
> ...


 
   
  So, would this allow me to use a 12AX7 with the Aune T1?  I have a couple of 12AX7 laying around, but I thought they were not compatible with the T1.


----------



## HolyCheese

Would it be possible to desolder/cut off the led without damadging the aune itself? Or should I put some black tape over it?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> So, would this allow me to use a 12AX7 with the Aune T1?  I have a couple of 12AX7 laying around, but I thought they were not compatible with the T1.


 
  NO! It`s only a socket saver! 12AX7 and 6922/6DJ8 etc. share the same noval 9-pin socket but pin layout should be different!
  If you redirect pins physically somehow (mod the socket saver), then it might be possible but some specifications may differ too much (not sure). 12AX7 specifications (type 12ax7 in search box): http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/vs.html
   
  Also, got 2 of my PCC189 tubes. I don`t know if Mullard PCC189 was already damaged or it got damaged when I dropped it on the glass table, it has crackly leaky weak sound -.- It`s propably leaking because when I turn T1 on, the bottom tube grid goes on high glow fast for about 3sec and then the rest of grid starts to warm up - it`s not normal. 
   
  Anyway, the other one is with Mazda logo, made in England, BVA, B(might be 8)9i5 code. This tube: http://www.r-type.org/exhib/aaa0882.htm Don`t have time atm to compare but briefly - very pleasant soundstage and compared to my amperex it`s pulled back towards me so there`s more room and air in the back my head. Vocals are very clear, smooth and intimate. Like this tube very much but can`t tell atm if it`s better than amperex or not. Seems that tube is better for rock/metal/jazz but sounds very well with electronic atmospheric music (better than amperex). It might get the 1st place for my overall different music genres performer but have to dig more into it. Also one little note, since it has thin glass it has very tiny hum when music isn`t played and vol knob is turned to the max. On normal listening levels it`s inaudible. 
  Will make more detailed comparsion when I get my Philips and Lorenz PCC189`s.


----------



## HolyCheese

I will be getting the T1 soon. Is it worth it to go for the upgrade tube version for an added 20 euro? It's the:
Electro Harmonix出产的EH 6922
   
  Or should I buy the standard version and buy a tube myself?


----------



## CoiL

Where are you going to buy from? Most resellers already ship them with upgrade 6922EH tube. What`s the price with stock tube 6n11?
  Maybe we can recommend some better place to order from? Give us link of your purchase place.
   
  For 20€ I personally would not buy it. Instead I would take stock version and buy Tungsram PCC88 tube from ebay (they are cheap, with same soundstage and littlebit more tight/punchy bass at lower volumes).


----------



## toschek

FYI, I haven't had much time to spend yet with this combo, but first impressions are that the T1 is a very good pairing with the HD 700s if you're on a budget as far as amplification is concerned. I am sure there are better pairings (Lyr, Valhalla, DNA, WA6) but the T1 gets the job done. 

More to come as time permits.


----------



## toschek

BTW, I will be listing my T1 on Wednesday most likely. I'll be including some single tubes since I can't use them in my new amp - 1x each of 6922EH, 6N23P and 6N23P-EB. Just a heads up to anyone considering pulling the trigger on one of these in the next few days.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





coil said:


> NO! It`s only a socket saver! 12AX7 and 6922/6DJ8 etc. share the same noval 9-pin socket but pin layout should be different!
> If you redirect pins physically somehow (mod the socket saver), then it might be possible but some specifications may differ too much (not sure). 12AX7 specifications (type 12ax7 in search box): http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/vs.html


 
   
  Thanks for the clarification, CoiL.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> I will be getting the T1 soon. Is it worth it to go for the upgrade tube version for an added 20 euro? It's the:
> Electro Harmonix出产的EH 6922
> 
> Or should I buy the standard version and buy a tube myself?


 
   
  Some people like 6922EH and I consider it a nice backup tube, but my suggestion is to go for something better. If you don't have too much experience with tubes then it's kind of hard to know what to get. EH is wide and clear sounding tube, but for my taste the imaging is not the best. Somehow I don't find the vocals to fit nicely in the mix. Therefore I would only use it for electronic and ambient music. The sound stage is kind of bumerang shaped... goes very wide but doesn't feel as balanced forward wise. There are lots of people, however, who think otherwise and consider this as a great tube. 6N23p rocket is more intimate, lusher and has more bass, but the soundstage is somewhat cramped. I find rocket to go especially well with gritty blues and blues rock. You get this sweet house of blues kind of presentation. Imaging is good and you get nice instrumental balance and separation, but like I said the sound stage is more narrow and forward centered. The rocket is not for everybody and therefore I can't unconditionally recommend it for being used as the main tube. You should get it just because of the cheap price and good bang-for-the-buck value. I have ordered Genalex gold lion and Mullard shield logo and will post more impressions/comparisons after I get those tubes. You need to start the tube rolling from somewhere and after that it's kind of hit and miss until you find the best tube for your system and your tastes. I know I'm still looking for the right tube. I wouldn't mind finding a tube that has rocket logo signature with extended soundstage.
   
  Maybe you should buy that T1 of toschek's. You get nice starter collection of tubes on top of the amp. I bet the price is also good.
   
  Any new purchases or comparisons.... anyone?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> FYI, I haven't had much time to spend yet with this combo, but first impressions are that the T1 is a very good pairing with the HD 700s if you're on a budget as far as amplification is concerned. I am sure there are better pairings (Lyr, Valhalla, DNA, WA6) but the T1 gets the job done.
> 
> More to come as time permits.


 
   
  So is it possible to briefly compare your 65s against 700s in T1? Or did you already let the 65s go?


----------



## toschek

Just listed my T1 in the amp section, I'm not sure what the rules governing flogging ones own classifieds in regular threads are, but I'm offering a good deal w/ extra tubes thrown in.   PM if interested or have questions, you know where to look.
   
  Cheers


----------



## toschek

I compared them in the 700 appreciation thread, here you go:  
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/612502/sennheiser-hd-700-appreciation-thread/405#post_9178155
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/612502/sennheiser-hd-700-appreciation-thread/405#post_9178388
   
  700s are definitely a keeper IMO, and they pair really nicely with the T1.


----------



## Salvatore

Thanks for the links. Glad you like those 700s.


----------



## dcfis

Hey T can you on me your price on the anniversaries? Thank you


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Any new purchases or comparisons.... anyone?


 
   
  My brief impressions @ rockgrotto:


> Briefly about my NOS Mazda PCC189 ( www.r-type.org/exhib/aaa0882.htm ) - it`s the first tube for me that can cope with every genre of music. For my taste it`s littlebit better with rock/metal/jazz but sounds very well with atmospheric electronic music, dubstep etc. too. Imo it`s better than Mullard ECC88 because it has soundstage just between 6922EH and 6N23P (reflector), it`s littlebit pulled back towards my neck so there`s more air & space. Highs are more sparkly and not so flat as Mullard`s and thus create more "colour" to sound. Vocals are clean & intimate. Bass is thick, deep and flowing but has good kick in it (reminds me 6922EH bass). Compared to my amperex single leg dimple disc, soundstage is littlebit wider and pulled back like I said before. Overall sound is warmer and more "melted" together. Those last things are why amperex is littlebit better performer with rock/metal/jazz etc. for me. But I really like this Mazda PCC189, it`s certainly a keeper. Unfortunately it`s also quite rare tube like my amperex. At first I thought it`s same as Mullard white old style logo PCC189 but Mullard has grey vertical center plate. Pitty that my Mullard PCC189 is bad and can`t compare it.


----------



## HolyCheese

coil said:


> Where are you going to buy from? Most resellers already ship them with upgrade 6922EH tube. What`s the price with stock tube 6n11?
> Maybe we can recommend some better place to order from? Give us link of your purchase place.
> 
> For 20€ I personally would not buy it. Instead I would take stock version and buy Tungsram PCC88 tube from ebay (they are cheap, with same soundstage and littlebit more tight/punchy bass at lower volumes).


 
  Hey, I can get mine from here:
 http://www.smalltao.com/product/15366563007/AUNE%20high-end%20version%20of%20the%20T1%2024BIT%20TUBE%20the%20DAC%20fever%20tube%20-%20sound%20card%20-%20decoder%20-%20amplifier%20-%20amp
   
  The same seller has the standard version too.
   
   

  Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Some people like 6922EH and I consider it a nice backup tube, but my suggestion is to go for something better. If you don't have too much experience with tubes then it's kind of hard to know what to get. EH is wide and clear sounding tube, but for my taste the imaging is not the best. Somehow I don't find the vocals to fit nicely in the mix. Therefore I would only use it for electronic and ambient music. The sound stage is kind of bumerang shaped... goes very wide but doesn't feel as balanced forward wise. There are lots of people, however, who think otherwise and consider this as a great tube. 6N23p rocket is more intimate, lusher and has more bass, but the soundstage is somewhat cramped. I find rocket to go especially well with gritty blues and blues rock. You get this sweet house of blues kind of presentation. Imaging is good and you get nice instrumental balance and separation, but like I said the sound stage is more narrow and forward centered. The rocket is not for everybody and therefore I can't unconditionally recommend it for being used as the main tube. You should get it just because of the cheap price and good bang-for-the-buck value. I have ordered Genalex gold lion and Mullard shield logo and will post more impressions/comparisons after I get those tubes. You need to start the tube rolling from somewhere and after that it's kind of hit and miss until you find the best tube for your system and your tastes. I know I'm still looking for the right tube. I wouldn't mind finding a tube that has rocket logo signature with extended soundstage.
> 
> Maybe you should buy that T1 of toschek's. You get nice starter collection of tubes on top of the amp. I bet the price is also good.
> 
> Any new purchases or comparisons.... anyone?


 
   
  Thank you for this. It sounds like the 6N23p is a very good tube to compliment my fidelio x1. The 6922EH would make the X1 too much, waaay to much. It already sounds like how you describe that tube. I think i'd get the standard version and get a tube off ebay somewhere. 
  This is where I will buy the standard version: http://www.smalltao.com/product/17094328358/The%20AUNE%20Standard%20T1%2024BIT%20TUBE%20the%20DAC%20tubes%20fever%20-%20sound%20card%20-%20decoder%20-%20tube%20amp%20-%20amp
  It's 115 euro's shipped, seems like a nice price!
   
  I'm not interested in toschek's amp since it's the silver version. Not really my taste 
   
  I'm a bit of a nub and can't seem to find the tube you mention here. I don't know what the rocket logo should look like anyway and in what price class I should look.
  Could you have a look for me? http://www.ebay.nl/sch/i.html?LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=6N23p&_sc=1&_sop=15


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> This is where I will buy the standard version: http://www.smalltao.com/product/17094328358/The%20AUNE%20Standard%20T1%2024BIT%20TUBE%20the%20DAC%20tubes%20fever%20-%20sound%20card%20-%20decoder%20-%20tube%20amp%20-%20amp
> It's 115 euro's shipped, seems like a nice price!


 
  Yeah, but what about custom taxes in NL? It comes from Suzhou (Jiangsu).
   
  I ordered mine from UK and paid 169€ for upgrade version (free post) but didn`t have to mess with custom tax  Fast door to door shipping also.
  This is the UK eBay seller i got it from: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUNE-T1-24bit-96kHz-Tube-Amplifier-USB-DAC-6922-Upgraded-Headphone-Amp-/251164443176?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item3a7a914228&_uhb=1


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> I'm a bit of a nub and can't seem to find the tube you mention here. I don't know what the rocket logo should look like anyway and in what price class I should look.
> Could you have a look for me? http://www.ebay.nl/sch/i.html?LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=6N23p&_sc=1&_sop=15


 
   
  I got 2x rockets for $8 (+ $10 for shipping). The seller I got them from is, however, out of rockets atm (http://myworld.ebay.com/polivoks-shop?_trksid=p2047675.l2559). The tube looks like this (has rocket logo with text 6H23P):
   

   
   
   
   
  This seems pretty similar: http://www.ebay.nl/itm/2x-6N23P-E88CC-6DJ8-Tubes-NOS-198x-VOSKHOD-/321070434800?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4ac14a09f0
   
  If you aren't in a hurry you could try lurking in ebay and wait for the best deals. I have to empasize that, even though rocket sounds very nice, its an entry level tube. If you want to go straight for the high level and more expensive tubes you should ask advice from somebody like toschek or coil who has been doing more rolling. I don't know how rocket will go with X1, but with K702 65th anniversary it goes nicely. Rocket has warm intimate signature, but the soundstage is not the widest and the bass is not the best I've heard. It's not perfect tube but for $10 a must buy and good starting point for every roller. If you are interested for the 6922EH I can sell you mine for affordable price 
   
  E: I have to second Coil. You should avoid taxes. I bought my T1 from that same seller (kidult510). Nice seller and very fast delivery.


----------



## HolyCheese

Hmm okay, I'll look around, so far I never got troubles with customs when ordering from China.

But if they do tax me they probably add 40 euro plus handling fee. 

Thank you guys for your help!


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





coil said:


> My brief impressions @ rockgrotto:
> 
> Briefly about my NOS Mazda PCC189 ( www.r-type.org/exhib/aaa0882.htm ) - it`s the first tube for me that can cope with every genre of music. For my taste it`s littlebit better with rock/metal/jazz but sounds very well with atmospheric electronic music, dubstep etc. too. Imo it`s better than Mullard ECC88 because it has soundstage just between 6922EH and 6N23P (reflector), it`s littlebit pulled back towards my neck so there`s more air & space. Highs are more sparkly and not so flat as Mullard`s and thus create more "colour" to sound. Vocals are clean & intimate. Bass is thick, deep and flowing but has good kick in it (reminds me 6922EH bass). Compared to my amperex single leg dimple disc, soundstage is littlebit wider and pulled back like I said before. Overall sound is warmer and more "melted" together. Those last things are why amperex is littlebit better performer with rock/metal/jazz etc. for me. But I really like this Mazda PCC189, it`s certainly a keeper. Unfortunately it`s also quite rare tube like my amperex. At first I thought it`s same as Mullard white old style logo PCC189 but Mullard has grey vertical center plate. Pitty that my Mullard PCC189 is bad and can`t compare it.


 
  Did more comparing with 6922EH and what I can say is that Mazda PCC189 has definitely better bass - tighter, more depth, more kick, more controlled and goes very deep. Highs are more sparkly, accurate and more in focus . Vertical soundstage feels same. Now, the bad part of this tube is tiny lack of mids. Acoustic guitar and female vocals suffer from it. Because of that I think Mullard ECC88 is littlebit better for rock/metal/jazz. But because of Mazda PCC189 larger soundstage and better bass - it`s better allarounder with different genres. With some alternative rock I still prefer Mazda PCC189 to Mullard ECC88.
   
  e:
   
  Anyone willing to try these? -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120939077278?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  Should be russian made and look like 6N23P.


----------



## Salvatore

I've been browsing through Lyr tube rolling thread as toschek suggested and stumbled across this link: http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8
   
  old post but seems like a good read for all of us T1 rollers.


----------



## zerogun

Forgive the complete ignorance, but given so many manufacturing countries for these valves/tubes how come I've not heard of anything coming out of Japan? Or is it just something not worth mentioning?


----------



## CoiL

Yeah, I know what you mean. I also searched for some Japan/China made tubes and found these: 
  http://www.watfordvalves.com/product_detail.asp?id=1697
  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320978527234?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
   
  Matsucrap a, Raytheon, National are the keywords for Japan tubes. Some Mazda labeled tubes might also be Japan made.


----------



## dcfis

We kinda destroyed the Japanese tube industry and by the time they were recovered they focused on the transistor


----------



## Gr3g277

Hey guys I just figured out something,
I was experiencing some hum or noise when nothing playing, but it wasn't all the time, so I swapped my tubes to be sure it isn't their fault, and actually, it isn't !
No matter wich tubes I ve put in, the noise was still there, so it must have been my environment, or the amp section.
I tried several things such such as turning off all the electrical devices near to it, and it happens that my aune is sitting very close to my old 20 LCD screen, which was on all day long. It isn't a led one so it draws some current lol, and emits quite a bit of electromagnetic field, so I just discharged it by touching it bare hands and miracle all the hum/noise is gone  
All my tubes are dead silent now, so just to say,these little valves are sensitive to such things, that we could easily forget...
BTW just loving my rtc e188cc, even if it is used, it is a really great tube, listening to apocalyptica right now, and it feels like I m just in the middle rocking with them


----------



## CoiL

Hmmm... got to test this with my Mazda PCC189 (only tube that has audible tiny hum when nothing isn`t playing and knob is at max), my Aune T1 sits just under LCD.


----------



## walfredo

BTW, folks, how to I remove the acrilic protection without breaking it?  I'm about to receive the first tube to roll.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> BTW, folks, how to I remove the acrilic protection without breaking it?  I'm about to receive the first tube to roll.


 
   
  Push it in, very carefully and kind of gently prise each side up alternating sides until it comes up on one.   Remember to do the top one first.  In the future don't put it back on, because it's useless and just destroys the aesthetic anyway.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> BTW, folks, how to I remove the acrilic protection without breaking it?  I'm about to receive the first tube to roll.


 
   
  Hmm maybe you need to push them inwards just a little bit before lifting up. I haven't installed them yet (and probably never will) since I'm constantly rolling tubes.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> and just destroys the aesthetic anyway.


 
   
  Yeah I never liked how they look. Much cooler with tube only.
   
  E: just to let you know I gambled a bit and ordered Ampered orange globe A-frame from Singapore (quartzacoustic.com). They sell used old stock without measurements (they only test tubes in their own audio equipment) and in most cases these tubes have smeared print. They are new business and all these shortcomings are kind of considered in the price. I had long conversation with the owner and decided to try my luck. Got some discount and paid 15 euros for the tube. I could have gotten similar prices from ebay but then I'd need to buy them in pairs to get similar prices. I asked about the company from few members here and they said that it should be a legit seller. Hopefully I get the real deal. I'll let you guys know how everything goes.
   
  I still would like to get Amperex 7308 white JAN logo. Hopefully some of these tubes proves to be the "one" I'm looking for.


----------



## walfredo

Thanks, guys!!


----------



## Salvatore

dunno what happened here... tried to edit that older post


----------



## Grevlin

toschek said:


> Push it in, very carefully and kind of gently prise each side up alternating sides until it comes up on one.   Remember to do the top one first.  In the future don't put it back on, because it's useless and just destroys the aesthetic anyway.




Agree. 

Mine never came out of the plastic wrapping - left it in the box.


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





coil said:


> Yeah, I know what you mean. I also searched for some Japan/China made tubes and found these:
> http://www.watfordvalves.com/product_detail.asp?id=1697
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320978527234?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> 
> Matsucrap a, Raytheon, National are the keywords for Japan tubes. Some Mazda labeled tubes might also be Japan made.


 
   
  Hmm, thanks for the names! I'll be sure to be on the look out when I'm hunting for tubes to see if I can find these rarities then!


----------



## richbass

which headphone amp chip is in it ? tpa6120 ?


----------



## CoiL

> headamp board transistors are B649 / D669
> Headamp board opamps are NE5532
> PCM1793 DAC
> DAC opamp OPA2134


----------



## HolyCheese

Lol why does the dac have an op-amp and a tube?
  That makes no sense since now you have the disadvantage of both.  Well i'm still gonna give it a shot.


----------



## negura

As much as I enjoy the T1 (as a DAC at the moment), I would much love to hear if anyone had the chance to compare it with a higher-end DAC and post some impressions. I am thinking of something in the  600-1000 USD range. I know it's not necessarily a fair comparison, but I suspect many here will end up upgrading their gear, eventually. Once the bug has bitten ...


----------



## CoiL

cmon, of couse you are going to upgrade and forget about Aune T1 if you have something in 600-1000 USD range. This is bang-for-a-buck DAC not some midrange/high-end DAC.


> Lol why does the dac have an op-amp and a tube?
> That makes no sense since now you have the disadvantage of both.


 
  And what is the disadvantage of both? Without tube buffer it wouldn`t sound so natural and "tubey" as it does. Had some quarrel about this in other forum with a guy who was freaked out because of this and started to "****" on Aune T1 without having listening it in real life. For me it doesn`t matter, if the sound that comes out of it is so good and if you look at price - it`s a steal. In the end - do you listen with your ears or brains? Music is for enjoying not for analizing!


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





negura said:


> As much as I enjoy the T1 (as a DAC at the moment), I would much love to hear if anyone had the chance to compare it with a higher-end DAC and post some impressions. I am thinking of something in the  600-1000 USD range. I know it's not necessarily a fair comparison, but I suspect many here will end up upgrading their gear, eventually. Once the bug has bitten ...


 
  Price alone should not be the "indicator" of a better product. (though the company selling this stuff sure hopes you think that)
   
  Here we have:
   

  a power strip that costs:*  $965 *   (and has a _break-in_ recommendation of 150-300 hours of ONLY music)
   
   
  Will I be able to hear improvement with this?
   
  ...will be $1000 bucks worth of improvement?
   
   
  I know better gear costs more, but there is "more expensive" and "better quality" and they are not always perfectly matched together.
   
  Just something to consider.


----------



## negura

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Price alone should not be the "indicator" of a better product. (though the company selling this stuff sure hopes you think that)
> 
> Here we have:
> 
> ...


 
   
  Appreciate your feedback, and I am not saying it's one way or the other, this is something I'd genuinely like to know, thus the question. I could narrow down my interest to a few DACs, but that might not get me any feeback at all.  Anyway, did you compare it with one DAC in the above range? 
   
  What I can contribute personally with as comparison is that a mid/higher-end amplifier, the Violectric V200, made a very noticeable difference to me, to decide to keep it, even considering it costs £600-700. Of course, it's not fair to compare them directly, but virtually all the aspects of the sound have well improved over the built-in T1 amp: dynamics, imaging, clarity, smoother sounding (less glare) etc.. (I have compared both side by side with HD650s, Beyer T1 and Audeze LCD-2)


----------



## dcfis

Well yea, I would hope it would, the aune is a great little combo that is well designed and nicely implemented. It punches way above its weight and has some cool features not seen at its level. It's not a near reference amp like the vioelectric. Which is also outclassed for much less than the 700 pounds it outclasses the aune by.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Price alone should not be the "indicator" of a better product. (though the company selling this stuff sure hopes you think that)
> 
> Here we have:
> 
> ...


 
   
  LOL that looks like the power strips you pick up at Ikea glued to a cigar box.   If that is for real that made my night.
   
  I love it!


----------



## negura

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> Well yea, I would hope it would, the aune is a great little combo that is well designed and nicely implemented. It punches way above its weight and has some cool features not seen at its level. It's not a near reference amp like the vioelectric. Which is also outclassed for much less than the 700 pounds it outclasses the aune by.


 
   
  Agree the T1 is great and I am still enjoying it for what it is. And tube rolling is fun.  I will be eventually moving it to another room, whenever I finally get to complete my main gear.


----------



## Grevlin

toschek said:


> LOL that looks like the power strips you pick up at Ikea glued to a cigar box.   If that is for real that made my night.
> 
> I love it!




Real...

http://shop.mapleshadestore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=STRAT4CHSP


----------



## toschek

grevlin said:


> Real...
> 
> http://shop.mapleshadestore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=STRAT4CHSP




facepalm.gif


----------



## toschek

My Lyr is here, running it off the JDSLabs ODAC. This thing is really, really powerful and gets very hot. My tubes never got this hot in the T1, I'm sure they are fine though. I was used to rolling tubes after a two minute cool down before, but they are too hot to touch for 5 minutes or more with this amp. Tons of headroom too, I wouldn't dare go past 12 o'clock with HD700s with this one or risk destroying my hearing and headphones. 

Sound is amazing, the ODAC is completely transparent but with the 7308s in the Lyr it sounds fat and spacious. Other than being on the hunt constantly for tubes, I am done shopping for the foreseeable future.

The T1 is an amazing piece of kit and comes within 85% or thereabouts to ODAC/Lyr for 1/3rd the cost. I still think it is a great bargain and I'm going to buy another one when my bank account is replenished. In the meantime, it is time to do some serious listening.


----------



## dcfis

Did you try the aune dac to feed the LYR?


----------



## toschek

Yeah, although because my tubes are either singles or pairs I couldn't find a good match between the T1 and the Lyr so it didn't go very well. 

Since I already have worked out a deal in the classifieds and need to ship it out tomorrow I didn't want to risk messing with it anymore, it's time to clean it up and pack gently for it's next home. I'll miss it for how much it made me appreciate corners of my music I'd never noticed before.


----------



## walfredo

FWIW, I tried the Aune as DAC and my old Integra 5.3 as headphone amp.  Much to surprise, it sounds absolutely amazing!!!  More clear (yet almost as sweet) and more spacious.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> The T1 is an amazing piece of kit and comes within 85% or thereabouts to ODAC/Lyr


 
   
  This is actually pretty awesome. + there are some minor things on Aune's favor such as less heating/easy rolling (as you already described) and the fact that only one tube is needed (easier hunting since you don't need to find matching pairs). In some stage you have to start getting those diminished returns and T1 certainly seems like a very good value for the money product. Now I'm pretty sure I'll be sticking with T1 + Annie for a good time. Thx mate and keep those impressions coming.


----------



## chillysalsa

I would also say this is a great value.  It is a really detailed, yet forgiving source for the money. 
   
  Just some tube rolling impressions this evening:
   
  EH 6922 tube (supplied with delux version) is a smooth all-around tube.  The bass is deep though a little loose, and the treble is a little forward.  Some of the mid-range is a little grainy and recessed, but still rich.
   
  Amperex Holland tube circa 1965 (pulled from old Tektronix scope, datecode 'Delta 5B4'): much wider sound stage and more detailed midrange.  Really amazing, almost holographic at times.  Bass is much tighter and cleaner, though rolled off compared to the EH tube.  Treble is cleaner and less fatiguing.  These tubes run about $25-40.


----------



## HolyCheese

One DAC you should consider is the Audiolabs M-DAC, I was very impressed with that DAC on a meet.


----------



## Salvatore

M-DAC should be awesome but it's quite expensive. I have 8200CDQ so I know from my personal experiences that Audiolab makes very high quality products. By the way I made a temporary storage solution for my tubes using the foam plastic cover that came with the T1 package:
   

   
  hahaha what do you guys think? Ugly but works


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> M-DAC should be awesome but it's quite expensive. I have 8200CDQ so I know from my personal experiences that Audiolab makes very high quality products. By the way I made a temporary storage solution for my tubes using the foam plastic cover that came with the T1 package:
> 
> 
> 
> hahaha what do you guys think? Ugly but works


 
   
  I've thought of something similar actually, but using the green foam that florists use to arrange flowers. That stuff is pretty solid and allows for firm pin penetration.


----------



## toschek

salvatore said:


> M-DAC should be awesome but it's quite expensive. I have 8200CDQ so I know from my personal experiences that Audiolab makes very high quality products. By the way I made a temporary storage solution for my tubes using the foam plastic cover that came with the T1 package:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Actually I like it. If I didn't have a cat that would be a great idea. I'm storing mine in the sock drawer until I think of something better.


----------



## HolyCheese

Very creative!


----------



## toschek

This one is pretty amazing in the Lyr and the T1. He will run out of these eventually and then they'll go back up to 400-500 each with very rare matched pairs. Its probably not urgent but something to file away: http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Telefunken-E88CC-%7B47%7D-6922.html


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





zerogun said:


> I've thought of something similar actually, but using the green foam that florists use to arrange flowers. That stuff is pretty solid and allows for firm pin penetration.


 
   
  That would be nice because you can then easily see the pin holes after removing and putting the tubes back. How cool would it be to have a nice rustic wooden box with that green foam inside. Something like this but deeper so you can close the lid: http://www.ebay.com/itm/THE-EDGE-BATTALION-CONNECTICUT-RUSTIC-WOOD-CIGAR-BOX-GOOD-CONDITION-/140919412620?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20cf73978c


----------



## HolyCheese

You can still use a box like that if you put the tubes on their side and lay strips of that green stuff inside.
  But isn't that green stuff moist?


----------



## toschek

I like that cigar box. That would look really classy lined in velour with memory foam padding.


----------



## Salvatore

Ok I went and got this Cuban hand made Don Pepin cigar box from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251219029488?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619
   
*[size=x-large]6 1/2 in wide x 5 3/8 in deep x 3 5/8 in high[/size]*
*[size=x-large]1/4 Inch solid thick walls[/size]*
   
  Should be optimal dimensions for storing small amount of tubes. I think I'll be able to customise this box to take around 10 tubes. Box cost me around 20 euros (shipping was 3/4 of the price) so not bad for a really nice looking storage for your precious tubes. This should also go nicely with my walnut finished sieveking omega. Now I need to think about the coating material... maybe I'll check those green foams first if they are suitable.


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> You can still use a box like that if you put the tubes on their side and lay strips of that green stuff inside.
> But isn't that green stuff moist?


 
   
  actually they're not moist, it just happens to be moist because florists use them to prolong the life of the flowers, but they're sold dry and very firm. Placing that green foam inside a cigar box would really be on point! All great ideas here!
   
  On another note, I've been testing out the T1 with pretty much all that I've got at home, and I think having tested my Shure SE215, ATH-WS70, and my new JVC HA-S500-Z ...the JVC's really kill the other two in clarity. Granted I only have the 6922 EH to test, I can pick up a lot more of the detail from the JVC's and the bass is not nearly as muddy the ATH-WS70's. I've played the T1 off my Creative Gigaworks T40 Series II, and the sound is just not the same. It's better than before, but you can't really hear the sound as it should be without listening them to some good cans


----------



## Davils Advocate

Schiit


----------



## dcfis

Schiit what?


----------



## HolyCheese

Schiit is ****
   
  E: oops


----------



## toschek

You guys might like this, I stumbled across it today.   Kind of an interesting read 
   
  http://www.nutshellhifi.com/library/MostVacuumTubes.pdf


----------



## toschek




----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


>


 
   
  Haha you really made me lol here. Good times...
   
  Ok I got Gold Lion yesterday and this seems to be a ok tube at max but nothing special. I would say something between rocket and electro harmonix. Not as wide and clear as EH but not as sweet as rocket either. Imaging doesn't feel as pulled back as in the case of EH. Kind of slightly airier and cleaner rocket with less presence in vocals/mids (noticeable with dialogue heavy tv series). Decent (and slightly dull) all around performer, which doesn't add much to what I already got. Maybe I need to burn this thing in a little bit before posting any more impressions. Not much of an upgrade atm and I think there are lots of better tubes in this price range. I know I'm going back to my rocket. NOS FTW I guess 
   
  So I guess I have one Gold Lion to sell or trade... anyone?


----------



## icecap

That's quite a surprise review on the gold lion, Salvatore! Hah.. It sounded very creamy smooth on my setup and love particularly the sense of "being-right-there"! Maybe not the most detailed, but that makes it not fatigue for me.. Listening to Coldplay was quite enjoyable on this tube.. 

A bass-heavy cans might not be suitable for gold lion though, I feel.. The lower end is kinda pronounced slightly..


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





icecap said:


> That's quite a surprise review on the gold lion, Salvatore! Hah.. It sounded very creamy smooth on my setup and love particularly the sense of "being-right-there"! Maybe not the most detailed, but that makes it not fatigue for me.. Listening to Coldplay was quite enjoyable on this tube..
> 
> A bass-heavy cans might not be suitable for gold lion though, I feel.. The lower end is kinda pronounced slightly..


 
   
  Yes it sounds closer to rocket than to EH and in that sense it is "being right there" kind on sound. At least if compared to EH where some of the intimacy flees to the sides along the bumerang shaped image (I note that EH would be great with better imaging). Gold lion settles somewhere between these two and therefore feels quite a good all arounder. I think I prefer gold lion over EH but what makes me want to sell or trade gold lion is that its closer to rocket and therefore EH brings more variety to my collection. You have to remember that gold lion is my latest purchase and I need to burn it in for a while and do some more comparison. There just seems to be something that these new production tubes are missing. Soul? Life? who knows, but I'm sure that in this price range we can find better deals and forget these tubes altogether. All this being said I still like to reserve rights to change my opinion as I do more comparisons 
   
  And yes I agree that gold lion and rocket both are not the best choices for overly warm headphones since they lack that sparkle. They also both lack detail and resolution (rocket probably ever more so). What you describe as creamy smooth is true but some might also describe it a bit dull. I also hope I'm not making the rocket sound like it's way above everything else. It certainly isn't and has many shortcomings. I personally just find it quite soulful and enjoyable tube especially considering that I got 2 tubes for $18. One gold lion cost over twice as much. I also listen blues and old funk quite a lot where the rockets shortcomings don't mind me so much.


----------



## Headphonus

So is there no way of hooking this up to a turntable without a pre amp? I know they aren't terribly expensive but I am curious. Also how much better would a pair of 600 ohm k240's sound better out of this than the stereo amp I have currently (a pioneer vsx-4900s Old yet good)?


----------



## HolyCheese

Quote: 





headphonus said:


> So is there no way of hooking this up to a turntable without a pre amp? I know they aren't terribly expensive but I am curious. Also how much better would a pair of 600 ohm k240's sound better out of this than the stereo amp I have currently (a pioneer vsx-4900s Old yet good)?


 
  Answer to your first question: No. It isn't going to work.
   
   
   
   
   
  Another question, what is a bright/analytical  or even grado'ish sounding tube?


----------



## toschek

Almost all of the German NOS variants get characterized as bright. Telefunken, Siemens or Valvo 6922/CCa tubes especially. Read through Brent Jesse's descriptions to get some ideas. 

http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm


----------



## dcfis

Try the JJ


----------



## CoiL

dcfis, how is the JJ with HD-681 compared with other tubes you have? 
   
  I got my Philips PCC189 but can`t make comparing atm because I`m sick and ears are "locked".


----------



## dcfis

I have only listened to the JJ so far as I just got the cans today and havent had time to do a comparison with the other tubes. So far the imaging is freat, the highs arent as rough as they are with the K702 and the JJ and there is HD650 meat and texture. Everything needs to burn in a bit and the other tubes need to be used so maybe the end of the weekend or next


----------



## CoiL

Don`t know how big soundstage JJ has but try 6922EH with HD-681 and you`ll get the picture how great imaging and soundstage HD-681 really has  Try with the first song: http://dloaw.bandcamp.com/album/the-secret-garden 
  or this song: http://sonic.eleventigers.net/track/stableface
   
  Highs aren`t harsh? Well, most ppl find HD-681 top end highs too harsh like many do with grados but it depends on person. My ears are very sensitive to high frequencies so, I must use mkII filter to tame them down little.


----------



## dcfis

Yes, I am now finding the treble energy a bit excessive but not as hard as the leading edge with the JJ and K702 though there is more treble energy with the 681. The mod might be a worthy addition


----------



## dcfis

coil, thanks for those cuts, I downloaded them both


----------



## EsoRee

Hi, before I make my decision I was just wondering if the casing is plastic or metal, thank you!


----------



## toschek

I believe it is painted aluminum, it actually looks pretty nice but seems to pick up scratches.


----------



## EsoRee

Thank you for the reply. Is $150 CAD, shipping included a good price for this amp/what is the price that a used Aune T1 is going at? I've been trying to find a used one but have come up empty handed.


----------



## Rboin

yes it is a good price. I am in beijing and they sell me 120 USD for the one with 6922 EH tube


----------



## HolyCheese

I'm bidding on a telefunken tube right now 
If I win that I have three tubes to compare.


----------



## BluesDaddy

I ran across this DAC/Amp doing a google search for tube headphone amp dac combos. Had never heard of it before and did a search on it and came up with this thread. Been looking for a nice, low cost tube headphone amp but wanted the DAC as well to input from my PC.  Thanks to the comments on this thread, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on this.  Next up, I suppose, are some different tubes to try.


----------



## negura

Quote: 





coil said:


> Naah, no problem, just wanted that for backup  Btw, I`m still not sure if it was the same amperex I have (single support leg dimple disc getter), because it was hard to see from picture. If it`s same then congrats, it should be very good and rare tube!


 
   
  I have just received the Amperex, the markings are mostly gone, but orange Amperex fonts, ECC88, Made in Holland. Single leg, round getter, no dimples. Not sure where this sits as Amperex varieties go, but I will give it a test run very shortly.
   
  Later edit:
  I have just finished a couple of comparison rounds of accross several music genres, from accoustic, electronic to rock and metal. Gear used: Aune T1 DAC, Vioelectric V200, Audeze LCD-2.
   
  In the last week(s) or so, my Mullard ECC88/6DJ8/Holland turned out to be my de-facto choice so this is what I will compare with. To me it strikes the best balance out of the tubes I have for naturalness, impact, bass, mids and presentation (imaging, soundstage) for most of my music. In fact I haven't even touched any of the other tubes in one week.
   
  In comparison this Amperex sounds a bit congested in presentation with a very narrow soundstage (everything's much closer to my head or closely left/right). And this is compared to the Mullard.  Not impressed with the positioning and imaging. Very tight bass, the punch and extension however are lower compared to the Mullard, and there's a bit more treble presence. I will keep trying a few more genres, but whereas I know where I will be using the EH (for its larger soundstage), I am not sure where the Amperex fits at the moment.
   
  Going back to the Mullard is like meeting an old pal for a few pints. Puts a smile on my face.


----------



## Headphonus

Can anybody compare this amp to the Grant Fidelity Tube DAC 09 or the 11?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





negura said:


> I have just received the Amperex, the markings are mostly gone, but orange Amperex fonts, ECC88, Made in Holland. Single leg, round getter, no dimples. Not sure where this sits as Amperex varieties go, but I will give it a test run very shortly.
> 
> Later edit:
> I have just finished a couple of comparison rounds of accross several music genres, from accoustic, electronic to rock and metal. Gear used: Aune T1 DAC, Vioelectric V200, Audeze LCD-2.
> ...


 
  Yeah, it`s certainly not the tube I have. "Glad" that you bought it ;D I found 2 amperex dimple discs but not sure if I`m going to buy them. I still haven`t recieved my Lorenz PCC189`s.
   
  Do you have shield logo Mullard ecc88/6dj8 with A frame support? I think I have the same Mullard and it`s the closest to my amperex dimple disc.


----------



## negura

Quote: 





coil said:


> Do you have shield logo Mullard ecc88/6dj8 with A frame support? I think I have the same Mullard and it`s the closest to my amperex dimple disc.


 
   
  Yes, the same. I bought it cheap too.


----------



## CoiL

Mine was also quite cheap. Great tube for Aune T1


----------



## toschek

I just found a matched pair of dimple a-frames for $45, hope they are as good as you say.   I received a pair of Lorenz PCC88s today, they are pretty damn nice too.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Purchased an Amperex Bugle Boy 6dj8/ECC88 earlier today supposedly c. 1965. Looking forward to getting my Aune and having some fun!


----------



## Davils Advocate

Haha I was trying to search the forum for any discussions on schiit and I commented instead xD


----------



## dcfis

This link says that 12AU7 can be used? Anyone tried? I assume there must be some internal pot adjustment?
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Decoder-Preamp-With-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-/200850603888?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2ec3a0ff70


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





dcfis said:


> This link says that 12AU7 can be used? Anyone tried? I assume there must be some internal pot adjustment?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Decoder-Preamp-With-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-/200850603888?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2ec3a0ff70


 
   
  I saw that too, but only on that one eBay store.   I'm not sure if it's real or not, I sent an inquiry to the person who sold me mine, they've always been responsive in the past.


----------



## toschek

coil said:


> Yeah, it`s certainly not the tube I have. "Glad" that you bought it ;D I found 2 amperex dimple discs but not sure if I`m going to buy them. I still haven`t recieved my Lorenz PCC189`s.
> 
> Do you have shield logo Mullard ecc88/6dj8 with A frame support? I think I have the same Mullard and it`s the closest to my amperex dimple disc.




Is this the same as the dimple getter you have? No picture of the actual getter, just the frame.


----------



## Xela71

Hello, new member here and new to the Aune T1 and valves.  I been reading this thread and getting ready to order some tubes , allready ordered some rocket tubes mentioned earlier in this thread, but seems i've been unlucky with the seller as he has not sent them yet ( ordered two weeks ago) and don't reply to my email.
   
  I am now thinking of ordering some mullard ecc88 and wondered if these would be a good buy.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECC88-MULLARD-6DJ8-HOLLAND-NOS-VALVE-TUBE-/390428928664?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubes&hash=item5ae760aa98
   
  or should i look for some other.
   
  thank you for your help.


----------



## dcfis

Yes those are nice I'd say its one of the must haves


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Is this the same as the dimple getter you have? No picture of the actual getter, just the frame.


 
  No. I`ve already showed & told you what mine looks like. These have A shaped support leg, mine has *single* support leg and *dimpled disc* getter. Those on picture are probably earlier ones with GAE factory code and should also have dimpled discs. Mine has GAC factory code.
   
  Ok, was maybe going to buy these but I`ve decided I have enough tubes already and will let someone else to have the chance (they are VERY rare!). I`m probably going to hate myself later not buying these... here they are: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380582105973?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
   
  Btw, if someone is interested of 3 cheap PCC189`s then get them: http://cgi.ebay.com.my/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310597717734&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:MY:1123
   
  I already have enough tubes and just won auction on 2 Mullard PCC189 with yellow old style logo (got them really cheap). They should be at least as good as Mullard ECC88 with white shield logo but we`ll see/hear. 
  When I get them and Lorenz PCC189 too, I`ll make longer comparing comment along with Philips PCC189.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





xela71 said:


> Hello, new member here and new to the Aune T1 and valves.  I been reading this thread and getting ready to order some tubes , allready ordered some rocket tubes mentioned earlier in this thread, but seems i've been unlucky with the seller as he has not sent them yet ( ordered two weeks ago) and don't reply to my email.
> 
> I am now thinking of ordering some mullard ecc88 and wondered if these would be a good buy.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECC88-MULLARD-6DJ8-HOLLAND-NOS-VALVE-TUBE-/390428928664?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubes&hash=item5ae760aa98
> 
> ...


 
  Imo it`s too expensive. I would look for cheaper one. I got mine for 7£ from eBay. Also if you want to be really sure you get the right thing & tested, then talk to PinkFloyd aka Mike @ rockgrotto forum, he has lots of them and he is willing to sell them for 15£ shipped to everywhere : http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/post/126075/thread


----------



## Auditore

Hello, new Aune T1 user here. Got a few reflektor and rocket tubes to experiment with. I am not so experienced to be able to describe the sound signature, but with my grado sr325i's, i LOVE the rocket tubes!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





auditore said:


> Hello, new Aune T1 user here. Got a few reflektor and rocket tubes to experiment with. I am not so experienced to be able to describe the sound signature, but with my grado sr325i's, i LOVE the rocket tubes!


 
   
  Haha don't worry about experience or all that. No blaming here if you give your honest impressions. Just go for it and describe what you like and what could be improved. The analysing becomes easier as you get more tubes with clearly different sound. I find it great fun to analyse tubes and sound altogether. Gives your senses some workout. Glad you like them rockets.
   
  @Coil: Man I wish I had knew about this Mullard deal sooner. Seems like a great deal especially if that is indeed shipped.


----------



## icecap

I was looking around and found this link, which I think someone has posted before: http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
   
  pinched waist and D-getter types are definitely the rare crops compared to the rest... and of course the 7308 gold pins cannot be discounted for the military grade!
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> Btw, if someone is interested of 3 cheap PCC189`s then get them: http://cgi.ebay.com.my/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310597717734&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:MY:1123
> 
> I already have enough tubes and just won auction on 2 Mullard PCC189 with yellow old style logo (got them really cheap). They should be at least as good as Mullard ECC88 with white shield logo but we`ll see/hear.
> When I get them and Lorenz PCC189 too, I`ll make longer comparing comment along with Philips PCC189.


 
   
  The auction just ended minutes ago and no bids.. was expecting some bidding war at the last 10 seconds! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  anyway, CoiL, you have tried PCC189? Cos I read they are variable gain tubes operating at 7 volts compared to 6DJ8/6922/ECC88/E88CC/7308 which are all 6.3v. PCC88/7DJ8 tubes are fine in certain circuits since their gain factor is fixed despite the similar 7v.. but PCC189 is one that is at 7v with a variable gain factor which I am not sure if T1 can handle?


----------



## CoiL

icecap, I`ve already talked about PCC88/PCC189 heater voltage differences in this thread, they will work flawless with T1. 
  I have Tungsram PCC88, Mazda PCC189, Tesla PCC88, Philips PCC189 - they all work like charm! 
   
  But I`m not sure what you mean about "variable gain factor"? 
   
   
   



salvatore said:


> @Coil: Man I wish I had knew about this Mullard deal sooner. Seems like a great deal especially if that is indeed shipped.


 
  Then try to get these (same as my amperex, GAC factory code, single support leg, dimpled disc getter): 


> Ok, was maybe going to buy these but I`ve decided I have enough tubes already and will let someone else to have the chance (they are VERY rare!). I`m probably going to hate myself later not buying these... here they are: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380582105973?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


 
  You should definitely like them I belive


----------



## walfredo

Hi Folks,
   
  I got the rocket logo yesterday.  It is a lovely tube.  It gives the T1 a more "tubey" sound, compared with the original 6922EH.  Everything is just more smooth.  On the flip side, transients are better defined in the 6922.
   
  In all, I think I like the rocket logo better, but this has mainly to do with the kind of music I listen the most.  I don't think I can say it is "better" than the 6922.  It is certainly _different_.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  So, I got 2 rocket logos.  Would anyone like to swap a tube?  Please PM me if you're interested.
   
  []s
  Walfredo


----------



## BluesDaddy

I've got a couple rocket's coming as well. Hopefully they'll be here when the Aune arrives (along with the Amperex Buggle Boy I ordered).  I'm afraid this tube thing is going to cost me!


----------



## toschek

Anyone who hasn't jumped on the Lorenz PCC88 bandwagon should do so soon, they are a great tube for the money and I have a feeling they won't be affordable for much longer.


----------



## toschek

dcfis said:


> This link says that 12AU7 can be used? Anyone tried? I assume there must be some internal pot adjustment?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Decoder-Preamp-With-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-/200850603888?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2ec3a0ff70




I just heard back on this, the eBay store I bought mine from has ties to Aune and they checked with the product manager, 12AU7 is NOT supported with the T1. Sorry


----------



## Salvatore

Gold lion is actually better now that I have burned it in for a while. Like I said before it is like a mix between EH and rocket. It has warm rocket-like intimate signature, but bass seems to be less boomy and you feel slightly more air in the presentation. I feel like this is a good all-around tube for multiple music styles (but still suits best music that doesn't need that big a** soundstage). I feel like T1s should ship with GL as the stock tube. Even being nice new production tube the GL just is too expensive for what it delivers imo. It's not as much upgrade from rocket and soundwise they are quite similar. So with rocket you get that warm tubey sound for half the price of GL.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Gold lion is actually better now that I have burned it in for a while. Like I said before it is like a mix between EH and rocket. It has warm rocket-like intimate signature, but bass seems to be less boomy and you feel slightly more air in the presentation. I feel like this is a good all-around tube for multiple music styles (but still suits best music that doesn't need that big a** soundstage). I feel like T1s should ship with GL as the stock tube. Even being nice new production tube the GL just is too expensive for what it delivers imo. It's not as much upgrade from rocket and soundwise they are quite similar. So with rocket you get that warm tubey sound for half the price of GL.


 
   
  +1 and why buy gold lion when you can get NOS tubes for 1/2 the price?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> +1 and why buy gold lion when you can get NOS tubes for 1/2 the price?


 
   
  True. That was clearly a mistake from my part. NOS prices are going up faster than those of new production tubes. Well I hope people learn from my mistakes and go for NOS tubes. Been now grinding some of my favourite slow blues songs for over and over (this in flac: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuYWhsjFpNM and this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALU5g6Qqi08) and GL goes definitely deeper than rocket. So GL is not a bad tube by any means, hell no, just overpriced when compared to some great NOS deals you can snipe from ebay.


----------



## Xela71

CoiL - thank you will contact him.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Then try to get these (same as my amperex, GAC factory code, single support leg, dimpled disc getter): You should definitely like them I belive


 
   
  I would but I already have a Mullard 6DJ8 Shield Logo Gray Plate O Getter on the way. I have indeed high hopes for Mullards.
   
  A side note for everybody, Michael Jacksons Stranger in Moscow FLAC is a pretty fun track to listen with wide sound stage cans + tube.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Anyone who hasn't jumped on the Lorenz PCC88 bandwagon should do so soon, they are a great tube for the money and I have a feeling they won't be affordable for much longer.


 
  These? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCC88-7DJ8-NOS-LORENZ-SEL-TUBES-MTCH-2PCS-/390549365471?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5aee8e62df
  Well, I´m hoping that my Lorenz PCC189 will be same good or better because I`m done with buying tubes. Got enough of them. 
  When I sort out 4 best of them (2 for electronic music and 2 for rock/metal), then maybe I will send other tubes around for trying for everyone (inside EU).
   
  Salvatore, those Mullard shield tubes are great and keepers but when it comes to high hopes - there is always something better out there ;D For me, it`s the closest tube to my amperex and thats why I like it BUT, like I`ve told already, they also have little minus side - whole highs range feel littlebit "flat" and lack of sparkly sound & transparency, but only a little. And this might be only my tube, you never know when comparing NOS tubes.


----------



## toschek

Those indeed. They are really decent sounding and IMO compete with much more expensive options out there.


----------



## CoiL

Good to hear. What would be the closest sounding tube you have to them? 
   
  Only tube I`m still wondering about is JJ/Tesla ECC88. Would really like to try it.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Salvatore, those Mullard shield tubes are great and keepers but when it comes to high hopes - there is always something better out there ;D For me, it`s the closest tube to my amperex and thats why I like it BUT, like I`ve told already, they also have little minus side - whole highs range feel littlebit "flat" and lack of sparkly sound & transparency, but only a little. And this might be only my tube, you never know when comparing NOS tubes.


 
   
  Haha true. There is always better tubes and when you have the best tubes there is always better amps and so on. Right now I'd like to get myself familiar with different brand sounds such as Mullard, Amperex, Telefunken, Siemens, Valvo and Lorenz. I'm willing to put few hundreds more to experience with tubes, but in the end I'll keep the ones I like the most (the cigar box I ordered should take around 10 tubes) and sell the rest. And all this comparing and impressions are subjective to the listener. Your personal likings, music styles and headphones all have effect to the final outcome.
   
  E: Who knows maybe someday we have enough tubes to set up a nordic tube rolling conference where we could test tubes and headphones


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Anyone who hasn't jumped on the Lorenz PCC88 bandwagon should do so soon, they are a great tube for the money and I have a feeling they won't be affordable for much longer.


 
   
  Can you provide a little more detail on your impressions of this tube as well as WHICH Lorenz PCC88 to which you're referring? A search on Ebay turns up what appears to be different versions in different price ranges.
   
  Thanks!


----------



## CoiL

BluesDaddy, look at the previous page, I posted a eBay link and toschek said they were the ones.
   
   
  e:
   
  Btw, guys&girls, I think I`ve stumbled on something good for all of you! Did comparing with Mullard ECC88 shield logo VS. Philips PCC189 and they sound basically identical! I have to have some more listening but atm, After comparing with Metallica - ST.Anger & Silversun Pickups - Simmer.... I can`t make difference! Even if it has difference it is definitely so minor that it doesn`t matter.
   
  Now to the good part - this tube costs only 6.95$ (4.55£) + shipping! There`s 11 of them available. Here is the eBay link (I bought mine from there): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251224635718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





coil said:


> icecap, I`ve already talked about PCC88/PCC189 heater voltage differences in this thread, they will work flawless with T1.
> I have Tungsram PCC88, Mazda PCC189, Tesla PCC88, Philips PCC189 - they all work like charm!
> 
> But I`m not sure what you mean about "variable gain factor"?


 
   
  my bad, probably this thread is too busy that I missed out that mention.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  some tubes play louder than others on the same volume, that's the simple gain factor explanation.. a variable gain factor can have different gain level in different workable circuits..
   
  this search from audioasylum comes up with the results and explaining why it is not recommended, although is abit not user-friendly in their viewing of the entire thread, hah.. http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/search.mpl?searchtext=ecc189&SelectForumtubes=tubes
   
  I think maybe the tube in T1 is used in buffer that some distortion is not noticeable.. but I don't know the circuit in T1 well enough to warrant any definite answers.. hah..
   
  a disclaimer here I am not asking people to stay away from PCC189 tube, on the contrary, this is also a share of info to get more people understand these concerns so tube rolling is more well-informed in a way...
   
*do also take note PCC88/7DJ8 is definitely usable on T1..* using these tube types on T1 will have a longer life in fact as the voltage supplied from T1 is lower than the operating 7.6V for these tubes..


----------



## CoiL

icecap, the link you gave shows ECC189 etc. not PCC189... aren`t they different?
   
  ECC189 specs 6.3V heater voltage & 365mA current while PCC189 specs 7.3/7.6V & 300mA. They are different.
   
  Btw, some intresting reading about measurements with PCC88/ECC88/E88CC: http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showpost.php?s=956d7f734c4ea4a881f95ffe01f9dc08&p=339133&postcount=16
   
  What comes to gain in variable applications... for example my Philips PCC189 has same gain level as my Mullard ECC88 (volume knob is exactly same position and acts same when increased).
   
  And what comes to that "harmonic distortion"... sry, but I can`t hear any! And vol knob @ max is same as with Mullard ECC88.
   
  I can`t assure you all for sure that all PCC189 will work but imho - PCC189/7ES8 & PCC88/7DJ8 work flawless with T1 ! 
  Atm I have 2 PCC88 and 2 PCC189 - all work flawless. I have 4 more PCC189`s coming and will comment soon.
   
  Sry, but this deserves reposting:


> Btw, guys&girls, I think I`ve stumbled on something good for all of you! Did comparing with Mullard ECC88 shield logo VS. Philips PCC189 and they sound basically identical! I have to have some more listening but atm, After comparing with Metallica - ST.Anger & Silversun Pickups - Simmer.... I can`t make difference! Even if it has difference it is definitely so minor that it doesn`t matter.
> 
> Now to the good part - this tube costs only 6.95$ (4.55£) + shipping! There`s 11 of them available. Here is the eBay link (I bought mine from there): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251224635718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


 
  e: Had some more listen with some electronic & jazz music and they indeed are so so similiar! 
   
  But after playing with Mullard ECC88 & that Philips PCC189 switched back to my amperex - still way better tube, in every way! Damn, I `m thinking again about buying those two I posted here -.-


----------



## icecap

yes, they are different.. but they are similar in the variable gain for both, just difference in voltage.. the variable gain is the compatibility issue I am bringing up.. 189s...
   
  PCC88 will work definitely..


----------



## CoiL

Well, as far as my experience goes with PCC189 & Aune T1, there are no issues. If I experience any, will tell everybody.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> BluesDaddy, look at the previous page, I posted a eBay link and toschek said they were the ones.


 
  Thanks, was looking for a post from toschek and overlooked yours.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Now to the good part - this tube costs only 6.95$ (4.55£) + shipping! There`s 11 of them available. Here is the eBay link (I bought mine from there): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251224635718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


 
  These are already gone, though with shipping it made them $16 each. I just picked up this one for $10 and change (seems like the same thing). This is going to nickel and dime me to death and I don't even have the Aune yet.


----------



## CoiL

Hmmm... it seems seller is hasn`t relisted his products or something like that because atm his store is empty and there certainly were 11 left of them. 
  Anyway, these should be exact ones like I have but the price? http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-PCC189-7ES8-PHILIPS-NOS-HOLLAND-Tube-Valvula-Rohre-Valvola-Lampe-TSF-/390540830535?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5aee0c2747
  All those NOS tubes seem to go fast and prices are raising ;(


----------



## BluesDaddy

He may have discovered he was pricing lower than the market value and decided to pull the listing. Probably will re-list later at a significantly higher price.  With the tube market burgeoning due to cheap equipment from China, and folks wanting to replace the Chinese tubes, it is an inevitable trend.  Hopefully some manufacturers will step into the market with products as good as the old the stuff.


----------



## Xela71

Hi,
   
  just bought one of these valves,  http://www.ebay.com/itm/390540043866?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648 any thoughts on them?
   
  Maybe was a little quick on the trigger, but wanted some thing shipped today to get started.


----------



## CoiL

With that price, I would have taken shield logo Mullard ecc88 from rockgrotto. But it looks same as my Philips PCC189 Heerlen plant tube, might be same tube, just different branding. Like I told before, my Philips PCC189 sounds same as my mullard. If it`s same tube, its good one but not the best.


----------



## Xela71

Thank you for your comments,  I contacted pinkfloyd@ rockgrotto yesterday with pm  but no answer so far  and I'm dying to get some tubes to try, at least now I have one in the mail.  Hopefully he will answer me soon.  Also I'm lookng for some amperex like the ones you mentioned in earlier posts, but haven't been lucky soo far.


----------



## CoiL

patience, he is a busy dude and I`m sure he will answer soon.


----------



## mbohupa

Hi everyone! I'm definitely interested in the Mullard ECC88 from Rock Grotto.


----------



## Eskinto

First time posting here 
   
  thanks guys for the super useful information! I've been reading this massive thread but couldn't find any info about this, maybe those of you who own the T1 can answer:
   
  Does the volume knob control the RCA - Audio Out as well as the 6.5mm headphone amp, or just the amp?
   
  and also, when you plug your headphones in the amp output, does the Audio Out automatically get muted?
   
  I really don't want to have to turn off my speakers by hand everytime I want to switch to headphones 
   
  cheers!


----------



## CoiL

Knob does not control RCA-out because it`s just analog signal going out. Only headphone out is amplified and is controlled by knob.
  If you plug your cans into headphone out then RCA-out signal remains and does not get muted if you meant that. 
  And let me remaind you that tube is used ONLY when feeding audio via USB.


----------



## alex223

Ok recieved mine today.
   
  Despite the huge power supply, it's quite tiny.
   
  Sound seems OK at first listen on the last Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds.


----------



## Salvatore

Amperex Orange Globe in the house. Been listening this tube for a while now and man this is sooooo smooth sounding tube. Deep, wide, warm and smooth with nice spherical "around your head" imaging. Like fuller gold lion extended to every direction. Loving this tube the first minute. Bass is indeed very deep and has good impact. Just a little bit more crispness and clarity and this tube would have almost perfect synergy with my headphones (and my personal desires). Definitely my best tube so far. No question. I have to say that you don't know what your T1 is capable of before getting those better tubes. I'm a happy man now.


----------



## CoiL

Is it that single leg dimple disc GAC factory code like mine or A-frame? Anyway, glad you like it!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Is it that single leg dimple disc GAC factory code like mine or A-frame? Anyway, glad you like it!


 
   
  A-frame. This is really awesome tube! I almost cried listening some of my favorite songs no lie  Just hits the right spots for me I guess.
   
  E: Sound stage and imaging is fantastic. Put on some nicely recorded albums, close your eyes and feel like standing right in the middle of the music. Can't really think there to be any better value for money tubes. This cost me 15€ + shipping.


----------



## CoiL

Any more left of them with that price or was it 1 deal only? Would like to know how it compares with my GAC amperex. At least I know now that I won`t be buying Genalex.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Any more left of them with that price or was it 1 deal only? Would like to know how it compares with my GAC amperex. At least I know now that I won`t be buying Genalex.


 
   
  One deal and I got some discount as well. Yeah maybe not worth it to go for genalex before all NOSes are sold out  Genalex is nice but doesn't compare to globe (price and performance wise). I think I'll get few more tubes before starting to hoard my favorites. I'm glad that there still is tubes which sound good and doesn't cost fortunes.


----------



## Th3rd3y3

I received this dac/amp today from toschek.... completely in love with this unit...  seems to work perfectly with my he-400   WOW is all I can say....WOW...  Avenged Sevenfold never sounded sooooo good


----------



## toschek

Guys, if you can find a Brimar cv2492 for a reasonable price jump on it. I got a pair of these today and they smoke any other tube I have tried to date. Really great tube, I cannot believe how good it sounds.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Amperex Orange Globe in the house. Been listening this tube for a while now and man this is sooooo smooth sounding tube. Deep, wide, warm and smooth with nice spherical "around your head" imaging. Like fuller gold lion extended to every direction. Loving this tube the first minute. Bass is indeed very deep and has good impact. Just a little bit more crispness and clarity and this tube would have almost perfect synergy with my headphones (and my personal desires). Definitely my best tube so far. No question. I have to say that you don't know what your T1 is capable of before getting those better tubes. I'm a happy man now.


 
   
  My Amperex Orange Globe is in the mail.  Looking forward to have them!!!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> My Amperex Orange Globe is in the mail.  Looking forward to have them!!!


 
   
  I think you will be amazed. Especially if you only have some stock tubes and what nots. For warm sound lovers this is definitely a must buy.


----------



## walfredo

So... for a different synergy than tubes... 
   
  What was the best headphone you plugged in the T1?!?  
For me, it was the Audio Technica W1000X.  Absolutely mesmerizing...  





   
Love,
Walfredo


----------



## Salvatore

AKG K702 65th Anniversary edition. Briefly tested K550 but no competition. I think I have tested those W1000Xs in some exhibition. What I remember was that they were super comfortable. Can't really remember the sound.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> What was the best headphone you plugged in the T1?!?


 
   
  Ultrasone Signature pro .. and Hifiman he-400  and both pair well with this T1 but the Ultrasone is the best.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Guys, if you can find a Brimar cv2492 for a reasonable price jump on it. I got a pair of these today and they smoke any other tube I have tried to date. Really great tube, I cannot believe how good it sounds.


 
  Can you make more analytical comparing with some other tubes? Just saying "smokes every other tube" won`t say much. Ppl taste is different and would be good if you gave more detailed impressions.
   
  Can`t say much about different cans but with HD-681 mkII, Aune T1 makes perfect match imho. All I know is AKG K540 sucks big with it (it`s sheisse can anyway).


----------



## zerogun

You know, I'm not aware if everyone is knowledgable with this tweak/setting to do when running the USB DAC, but for Mac's when you reach into the settings of "Audio MIDI Setup" the output settings should reflect like the picture below to prevent the signal from being scaled by OSX. After making that small change, it's made a giant difference for me where the sound is a whole heap cleaner.
   
   

   
  On another note, is it safe to plug the tube in after having turned the DAC unit on? I'm not sure, but the past few days I've been experiencing again the issue of the usb dac not working with the mac again, but just now I decided to unplug the tube and turn the unit on. Immediately that got the dac recognized in the sound preferences, but I can't be 100% certain this is the method to go on, as previously I had a back up drive plugged into a the USB at the back and it was a suspicion of mine that the drive was hogging the USB power so the bus wasn't reading the dac. When/if the usb dac decides to not work again, I'll be sure to plug in the back up drive and then test my theory out again. Until then, I get to enjoy music again with the T1 and I've learned a little thing about the audio setup aspect


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





zerogun said:


> On another note, is it safe to plug the tube in after having turned the DAC unit on? ...


 
  A typical rule of thumb for tube equipment is don't remove or insert tubes when the equipment is powered up (and sometimes even plugged in). A little more obvious with integrateds or power amps, but still a good rule to live by for other types of tube eqiupment. Less stress on the tube - not sure what it may do to the rest of the circuit.


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> A typical rule of thumb for tube equipment is don't remove or insert tubes when the equipment is powered up (and sometimes even plugged in). A little more obvious with integrateds or power amps, but still a good rule to live by for other types of tube eqiupment. Less stress on the tube - not sure what it may do to the rest of the circuit.


 
   
  you know that's what I was afraid of, so the next time the DAC takes a dump on me and decides not to work again, I'll just have to see if A) powering the tube is drawing too much power from the USB or B) my backup drive being plugged in at the same time as the DAC is hogging the power to the serial bus, which is what is causing the DAC to not be recognized by the system...thanks for the confirmation


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Guys, if you can find a Brimar cv2492 for a reasonable price jump on it. I got a pair of these today and they smoke any other tube I have tried to date. Really great tube, I cannot believe how good it sounds.


 
   
  Ok managed to find one for £11 + £3.5 shipping. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## CoiL

I usually always turn off T1 and then roll the tube but I tried and you can also do "hot swap". Nothing bad happened (just signal got lost) and you have to wait for tube to warm up hearing "crackly" sound in the beginning. Still I don`t recommend to do it.
   
  Salvatore, if I only had experience with Aune T1 @ mac I would have told you it before. On Windows it`s same thing with using KSP, WASAPI or ASIO. It made huge difference after using one of them to avoid windows internal processing. I use ASIO4ALL + ASIO winamp plugin. KSP is easier but it may have problems with 192/24-bit playback.
   
  Also, little OT but Aune T1 + Thom Yorke new album gives absolute eargasm: http://xlrecordings.com/buy/atomsforpeace/amok/


----------



## RAFA

Quote: 





coil said:


> I usually always turn off T1 and then roll the tube but I tried and you can also do "hot swap". Nothing bad happened (just signal got lost) and you have to wait for tube to warm up hearing "crackly" sound in the beginning. Still I don`t recommend to do it.
> 
> Salvatore, if I only had experience with Aune T1 @ mac I would have told you it before. On Windows it`s same thing with using KSP, WASAPI or ASIO. It made huge difference after using one of them to avoid windows internal processing. I use ASIO4ALL + ASIO winamp plugin. KSP is easier but it may have problems with 192/24-bit playback.
> 
> Also, little OT but Aune T1 + Thom Yorke new album gives absolute eargasm: http://xlrecordings.com/buy/atomsforpeace/amok/


 
   
  I read the first post and pulled the trigger. Bought one from some UK-ebay seller.
  joeq70 seems to be very confident about this DAC/amp.
   
  Is there somewhere a FAQ about how to roll Tubes?


----------



## HolyCheese

Is the ecc84 compatible with the t1?
  And I found this one: 
 NOS NIB GE 6BQ7A 6BZ7 VACUUM TUBE =6DJ8 + 10% more gain, & replaces 6AQ8

 what do you think?


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





rafa said:


> I read the first post and pulled the trigger. Bought one from some UK-ebay seller.
> joeq70 seems to be very confident about this DAC/amp.
> 
> Is there somewhere a FAQ about how to roll Tubes?


 
  Google is your friend - lots of info out there regarding the care and feeding of tube audio equipment. I found some good info on the FAQ here, about halfway down, but there is lots more info out there.
   
  Edit: Actually not as much info in that one as I initially thought. Here is a page with a nice summary of the basic issues.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Google is your friend - lots of info out there regarding the care and feeding of tube audio equipment. I found some good info on the FAQ here, about halfway down, but there is lots more info out there.
> 
> Edit: Actually not as much info in that one as I initially thought. Here is a page with a nice summary of the basic issues.


 
  BTW, it is a good idea to NOT touch tubes with your bare fingers, even if cool. You hands deposit all sorts of grease and oils onto glass surfaces which are not good for tubes when they start to heat up. There are some inexpensive tools for handling tubes, but a nice lint free cloth always works well.


----------



## RAFA

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Google is your friend - lots of info out there regarding the care and feeding of tube audio equipment. I found some good info on the FAQ here, about halfway down, but there is lots more info out there.
> 
> Edit: Actually not as much info in that one as I initially thought. Here is a page with a nice summary of the basic issues.


 
   
  Thank you for the links.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> BTW, it is a good idea to NOT touch tubes with your bare fingers, even if cool. You hands deposit all sorts of grease and oils onto glass surfaces which are not good for tubes when they start to heat up. There are some inexpensive tools for handling tubes, but a nice lint free cloth always works well.


 
  This is MYTH! Read lot of articles and opinions about it. They don`t get even so hot to "burn in" deposits on the glass. I remember one old radio-guru laughing about this nonsense... he was swapping and testing tubes for 40 years and some tubes were sticky as hell over the time - made absolutely NO difference in ANY way. Maybe only things to consider taking them with "butter" fingers - deposits may dissolve markings on the tube and its just harder to pull them out due slippy surface on the glass. Also maybe aesthetic looks of light-up tube. Other than that - NONSENSE! Can say it also from my little experience with tubes.  Myth! 
   


holycheese said:


> Is the ecc84 compatible with the t1?
> And I found this one:
> NOS NIB GE 6BQ7A 6BZ7 VACUUM TUBE =6DJ8 + 10% more gain, & replaces 6AQ8
> 
> what do you think?


 
  As far as I know - they do not fit. There is list of tubes that fit earlier somewhere in this thread. But maybe I have overlooked on these.


----------



## dcfis

Coil is right


----------



## HolyCheese

Yea I checked with that list and these weren't on there but i tought, maybe there are some more types that fit.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> This is MYTH! Read lot of articles and opinions about it. They don`t get even so hot to "burn in" deposits on the glass. I remember one old radio-guru laughing about this nonsense... he was swapping and testing tubes for 40 years and some tubes were sticky as hell over the time - made absolutely NO difference in ANY way. Maybe only things to consider taking them with "butter" fingers - deposits may dissolve markings on the tube and its just harder to pull them out due slippy surface on the glass. Also maybe aesthetic looks of light-up tube. Other than that - NONSENSE! Can say it also from my little experience with tubes.  Myth!


 
  Interesting. I picked this up from my dad (now 84) when he had tube equipment 45 years ago - so it is not a recent invention. However, a quick google on the subject appears to confirm that there is no evidence it is harmful and certainly not with pre-amp tubes. So thanks for straightening that out.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





coil said:


> Can you make more analytical comparing with some other tubes? Just saying "smokes every other tube" won`t say much. Ppl taste is different and would be good if you gave more detailed impressions.
> 
> Can`t say much about different cans but with HD-681 mkII, Aune T1 makes perfect match imho. All I know is AKG K540 sucks big with it (it`s sheisse can anyway).



  
 As far as comparison, the closest comparison I can make is going to be to USN-CEP 6922 or 7308, both of which I have.   These are both well known for excellence across the board in terms of imaging, sound stage and dynamics.  I think the Brimar CV2492 does one better on these two classics with heightened dynamics and better/more resolving detail -- however, the improvements do come with a caveat in that these tubes do impart warmth, so if you don't like that you may want to look elsewhere.   These are probably about the same level of effort to find a matched pair, however you see them frequently as singles.   Anyway, I hope that helps.


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Interesting. I picked this up from my dad (now 84) when he had tube equipment 45 years ago - so it is not a recent invention. However, a quick google on the subject appears to confirm that there is no evidence it is harmful and certainly not with pre-amp tubes. So thanks for straightening that out.


 
   
  The only issue I would potentially see with oil/grease deposits on the glass would be raising the heat inside the tube, potentially shortening the life span of them since they're running hotter than usual. Then again, if 40 years of grease and grime worked for another individual I can only say that these tubes were built with durability in mind!
   
  When you're all listening to the dac, are there any other USB items plugged into your computer that may be running simultaneously? Or is it when you listen to music, you guys pretty much let the T1 draw all the power it wants from the USB port?


----------



## toschek

When I had this I used a dedicated usb port and tried to keep other devices off the same bus enumerator as well.   I'm doing the same with my Bifrost now.   It probably makes zero difference.


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





toschek said:


> When I had this I used a dedicated usb port and tried to keep other devices off the same bus enumerator as well.   I'm doing the same with my Bifrost now.   It probably makes zero difference.


 
   
  Have you had any issues with connectivity with your Bifrost? Forgive me, but are you using a Mac or Win OS? I can't seem to understand why Mac's seem to have the bigger issue with USB DAC's and my only conclusion that I can draw is that the DAC isn't getting enough power across from the bus when other devices are plugged in.
   
  *edit* @toschek that Bifrost is one sexy looking piece of equipment!


----------



## Salvatore

Won this lot for $56. Hope it was a good buy. I think after this I'll experiment for a while and post some impressions before getting any more tubes.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Won this lot for $56. Hope it was a good buy. I think after this I'll experiment for a while and post some impressions before getting any more tubes.


 
   
  If not...you'll be pissed x6


----------



## walfredo

Thanks for the impressions on the headphones, folks.  
   
  I have an HD 681, but I don't think it is the mk2.  It is good, but not super-good.
   
  I really liked the HE-500 in a meeting.  Is the HE-400 close to it?


----------



## toschek

zerogun said:


> Have you had any issues with connectivity with your Bifrost? Forgive me, but are you using a Mac or Win OS? I can't seem to understand why Mac's seem to have the bigger issue with USB DAC's and my only conclusion that I can draw is that the DAC isn't getting enough power across from the bus when other devices are plugged in.
> 
> *edit* @toschek that Bifrost is one sexy looking piece of equipment!




I am using a Mac, have had zero issues with USB, although I think I might get a mini toslink to to link cable to try that out. The Bifrost is great, I am really happy about it.


----------



## toschek

salvatore said:


> Won this lot for $56. Hope it was a good buy. I think after this I'll experiment for a while and post some impressions before getting any more tubes.




Damn Salvatore that is quite a haul. There has to be at least a couple of gems in that pile


----------



## zerogun

@toschek
   
  I'd consider yourself lucky then! I think I need to buy another USB cable too to exhaust the problems. It's so frustrating to not have it work that I can't really thoroughly enjoy the sound 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Everyone's picking up all these lovely tubes, and it's making me envious haha although I'm sure my wallet is thanking me for not perusing ebay at this moment


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





zerogun said:


> When you're all listening to the dac, are there any other USB items plugged into your computer that may be running simultaneously? Or is it when you listen to music, you guys pretty much let the T1 draw all the power it wants from the USB port?


 
  Lol. Aune T1 does NOT need any power from USB  Welcome to thread! 
   
  I even modded my USB cable by cutting out +5Vsb pin at the PC end to avoid any possible signal interference.
   


walfredo said:


> I have an HD 681, but I don't think it is the mk2.  It is good, but not super-good.


 
  Mk2 isn`t somekind of production version, it is filter modification. And do you have "regular" HD-681 or F or B version? Regular one is with red edges. Mk2 filter mod is needed to eliminate some harshness @ top highs (if it is bothering).


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





coil said:


> Lol. Aune T1 does NOT need any power from USB  Welcome to thread!
> 
> I even modded my USB cable by cutting out +5Vsb pin at the PC end to avoid any possible signal interference.
> 
> Mk2 isn`t somekind of production version, it is filter modification. And do you have "regular" HD-681 or F or B version? Regular one is with red edges. Mk2 filter mod is needed to eliminate some harshness @ top highs (if it is bothering).


 
   
  Is that so huh? I haven't been following the thread in it's entirety, but I can't otherwise explain why the T1 works sometimes and doesn't work another on my Mac to be honest. I'm not running any VMware and have reset the SMC too. It's just plain annoying when I want to just tune out and nothing comes out the speakers/phones...


----------



## CoiL

Aune T1 does not draw ANY power from USB  Your problems must lay somewhere else. Read about USB cable "mod" from rockgrotto: http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/post/124907/thread
  Some ppl find it even sound better with +5Vsb pin disconnected and using short cable. From my experience nothing changed (at least to my ears). 
  But I started with better quality 1M cable not the stock one, maybe thats the reason.
   
   
   


salvatore said:


> Won this lot for $56. Hope it was a good buy. I think after this I'll experiment for a while and post some impressions before getting any more tubes.


 
  Looking foward to hear impressions! Try to give analytical comparing against 6922EH or Amperex orange globe.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Damn Salvatore that is quite a haul. There has to be at least a couple of gems in that pile


 
   
  I sure do hope so. Those Teles alone go for what I paid for the whole lot. All these tubes measure way above good but are definitely used to some extent. Seems like those 7DJ8 tubes are not as wanted as the 7308s or 6922s, but hopefully they sound good anyways. At least I'm happy with this purchase. Seems like I have lots of new tubes to test next week. Looking forward to that Brimar as well.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Looking foward to hear impressions! Try to give analytical comparing against 6922EH or Amperex orange globe.


 
   
  I'm planning to do some extensive comparison soon with all my tubes. I'll compare everything against the stock EH since it's the tube everyone has and try to give examples what kind of headphones and music styles the tubes might suit best. I'll go tube by tube and make notes on paper. I have K550s, K702s and SRH440s to use, but I'll be mostly using 702 since they rock the hardest  I'll also take photos of each tube and show you how my customized cigar box is coming along.


----------



## toschek

7dj8 from my experience is pretty good, granted I got some Lorenz 7dj8 but I like them a lot. I hope your experience is the same


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





zerogun said:


> @toschek
> 
> I'd consider yourself lucky then! I think I need to buy another USB cable too to exhaust the problems. It's so frustrating to not have it work that I can't really thoroughly enjoy the sound


 
  Try this good short foil shielded cable (good for laptop on table): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180888831638?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
  And you should try +5vsb cut-off mod also, maybe it`s the reason your mac doesn`t want to make sex with Aune T1? Sending some software related signal to device to detect it or something like that.
   
  Btw, I have had somewhat related issue with external HDD once. All that helped in the end was changing to shorter and thicker USB cable. After that haven`t had any issues with my external music drive.
   
  e: Still waiting on my Lorenz PCC189 ...hope they have not got lost ;(


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





coil said:


> Try this good short foil shielded cable (good for laptop on table): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180888831638?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> And you should try +5vsb cut-off mod also, maybe it`s the reason your mac doesn`t want to make sex with Aune T1? Sending some software related signal to device to detect it or something like that.
> 
> Btw, I have had somewhat related issue with external HDD once. All that helped in the end was changing to shorter and thicker USB cable. After that haven`t had any issues with my external music drive.
> ...


 
   
  Well I am using the USB cable that came with the unit, so I cannot say how good or bad it really is. My only hunches are lack of power (which have since been negated), and just a plain inconsistent cable. Perhaps I'll try and shorter cable & mod as per suggestion, at least that narrows my options further. Thanks for all the tips guys! Very appreciated!


----------



## CoiL

Btw, did you get grey or black cable (with golden tips) as stock? Grey comes with older release.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> If not...you'll be pissed x6


 
  Nah, he can sell 'em for $30 each and they'll get snapped up!!


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Try this good short foil shielded cable (good for laptop on table): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180888831638?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> And you should try +5vsb cut-off mod also, maybe it`s the reason your mac doesn`t want to make sex with Aune T1? Sending some software related signal to device to detect it or something like that.
> 
> Btw, I have had somewhat related issue with external HDD once. All that helped in the end was changing to shorter and thicker USB cable. After that haven`t had any issues with my external music drive.
> ...


 
  It may be as simple as an intermittent short in the USB cable OR poor connection in the actual USB port. USB cables tend to take a lot of abuse. Way back in my college days in a Radio Production course, my instructor roundly railed at me for wrapping up a mic cable around my hand - he said the strands inside could break being wound that tight. He insisted always to wrap cable palm to elbow. In fact, I have seen mic cables for wireless mics being ruined this way - and on high quality models. For cheap USB cables, I would imagine this could happen as well.


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





coil said:


> Btw, did you get grey or black cable (with golden tips) as stock? Grey comes with older release.


 
   
  Ah I got the older release then no doubt. Was there an issue with those units? Or cable I should be aware of?


----------



## Th3rd3y3

Im loving this thing more and more every time I sit down for a listen....  out of the tubes I got with it Im liking the EH6922 the best....  sounds great with all types of music I listen to


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





th3rd3y3 said:


> Im loving this thing more and more every time I sit down for a listen....  out of the tubes I got with it Im liking the EH6922 the best....  sounds great with all types of music I listen to


 
  Can specify the other tubes you've used and why you liked the EH6922 better?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





zerogun said:


> Ah I got the older release then no doubt. Was there an issue with those units? Or cable I should be aware of?


 
  No issues. First units came out with grey cable which seems poorer quality than new black ones. 
   
  Btw, got these 2 Mullard PCC189`s:
   
  1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150997848878?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
   
  2) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150997850039?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
   
  Since they were very cheap but untested gave them a try. Btw, they are different - one has grey vertical center plate other has "nickel" alike.
  The tube on the first link is ok and sounds pretty good but the other seems bad. It has top shield plate, getter and upper inside glass gone black and it has same crackly sound like my other white old style mullard logo PCC189, that one also has grey vertical center plate. They do differ, one has large O-getter other has smaller o-getter. Maybe it`s coincidence but both same type PCC189`s are bad. White logo one I dropped on the glass table and suspect I ruined it but the other with yellow logo looks just bad tube from the moment I saw it. Anyway if I see another PCC189 Mullard like these on sale will give it one more go just to confirm that it`s not about some PCC189 not working with Aune T1.
   
  Will wait for my Lorenz PCC189 to arrive and then will make analytical comparing sometime soon. 
   
   
  e: After brief listening and comparing all I can say atm is that this yellow old style logo mullard pcc189 gets beaten by Mullard ECC88 newer white shield logo tube and also gets beaten by Philips PCC189 because its sounding same as Mullard ECC88. Maybe this tube is not for my taste because it has very good instrument separation but everything feels much closer and intimate compared with Mullard ecc88. It isn`t foward sounding but everything is pulled very near around you. Bass and drum kicks are very tight but warm. Shortly - this Mullard PCC189 is intimate, good separation, warm sounding but lacks in soundstage (for me it should be larger in every direction) and sense of air. These are only first impressions and might change later. Will update with Lorenz PCC189.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Got an NOS Mullard ECC88 coming. By the time my Aune gets to me I should have 5 tubes to play with along with the stock: 1 Amperex Buggle Boy, 1 NOS Mullard, 2 Voskhod Rockets and 1 NOS Philips 7ES8/PCC189. This thing has already cost me more than I ever anticipated and I don't even have it yet!!


----------



## CoiL

If you get same Mullard ecc88 & and Philips pcc189 like I have, then you basically have 2 same sounding tubes. Btw, you forgot the 6922EH that Aune T1 comes with.
   
  Yeah, Aune T1 is little-black-money-sucking-box that starts to suck money before you even buy it ;D Atm I have bought 12 tubes and I like 6 out of them, 2 are bad and others are not for my taste or come short in something. Overall, not bad considering how cheap I got them. I think whole sum is less than price of one good 7308 tube


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Got an NOS Mullard ECC88 coming. By the time my Aune gets to me I should have 5 tubes to play with along with the stock: 1 Amperex Buggle Boy, 1 NOS Mullard, 2 Voskhod Rockets and 1 NOS Philips 7ES8/PCC189. This thing has already cost me more than I ever anticipated and I don't even have it yet!!


 
   
  Do you use the T1 with your K501 ?


----------



## HolyCheese

I wonder, 
  Can you run some high efficiency speakers straight off the aune's headphone out? Or would 4 ohms be way too low to handle?


----------



## CoiL

No! Dude, it`s not meant for that. It`s DAC/HP-AMP, thats it, nothing more. You definitely need an external amplifier/receiver to power your external speakers. End of story.


----------



## HolyCheese

Sorry man!  I was just wondering


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> Do you use the T1 with your K501 ?


 
  I don't have the T1 yet, it is still in transit.  I will try it with all my cans just to see how they all sound with it.  My plan is to use the AT AD900 for the most critical listening as I roll tubes, but the K501s will certainly be in the rotation as well.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





coil said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yeah, it has read edges.  Regular then.  
   
  Try a W1000 or W1000X if you have a chance.


----------



## walfredo

Dudes and Dudetes:
   
  I got the Amperex Orange Globes!!  WOW!!!  Big time!!!!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Much better than the rocket logo and 6922.  Just in a different league.  The sound is is richer, more detailed, more alive.  It is grainer too... but the lifeliness that goes with it pays off.
   
  I really think it brings the T1 to another level, compared with the rocket logo and stock 6922.  Although these are not bad, it is just a different league!!
   
  So, if you don't have one, get it!!
   
  If you know of another tube as good as this one, let me know... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Love,
  Walfredo


----------



## CoiL

Which orange globes you have? A-frame support leg? Are the GAE coded? 
   
  W1000 And W1000X are totally different price/quality league. You can`t really compare those to HD-681. But the SQ that HD-681 offers with its price is just crazy. I belive you agree with that.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> I don't have the T1 yet, it is still in transit.  I will try it with all my cans just to see how they all sound with it.  My plan is to use the AT AD900 for the most critical listening as I roll tubes, but the K501s will certainly be in the rotation as well.


 
   
  Ok. i'm very interested about your impressions about K501/T1 combo.  I feel personnaly it's OK but I don't know if it's really good.  What's your current source/amp for K501 ?


----------



## walfredo

> Originally Posted by *CoiL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Which orange globes you have? A-frame support leg? Are the GAE coded?


 
   
  I am not sure.  The one I got is:
   
   

   
   



> W1000 And W1000X are totally different price/quality league. You can`t really compare those to HD-681. But the SQ that HD-681 offers with its price is just crazy. I belive you agree with that.


 

   
  Yes, absolutely.  The HD-681 is a great value.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> Ok. i'm very interested about your impressions about K501/T1 combo.  I feel personnaly it's OK but I don't know if it's really good.  What's your current source/amp for K501 ?


 
  I pretty much only listen to lossless rips played back on a Win7 PC using either MediaMonkey or Foobar2000.  I've got the analog out of the PC hooked up to an old Technics receiver that also drives a couple of small AR speakers right at the computer.  The PC is also hooked up to an HK AVR 445 via optical s/pdif. Headphone outs on both receivers sound pretty good to my ears. I have a Meier Corda HeadFive, but rarely use it anymore. Had been running a Zune into it (WMA lossless files), but my portable now is a Rockboxed Sansa Clip-Zip and I don't use it much indoors. Looking forward to running a USB to the Aune and then the line out to one of the HK analog inputs. I've also go an Emotiva XPA-3 coming to drive a set of MMG and MMGC from Magnepan that I have yet to order.  My current main speakers are a set of DIY I built about 10 years ago based on a design by Ed Frias that was on AudioReview.com.  I had a set of Magie 12s for a while driven by an Emotiva XPA-2, which I really loved. Long gone now.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> I am not sure.  The one I got is:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  They should be from 1969 and with GAC code but not sure. Do they have O-ring getter or dimpled disc? If they are with dimpled disc then they are same as my Amperex - best tube I have ;P


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





coil said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I'm not sure, CoiL.  I don't know what an o-ring getter or dimpled disc are. 
   
  But it surely sounds good.  I'd describe the sound as refined, smooth and detailed.  Very musical.  The only drawback I can detect is the bass a little lose.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> I'm not sure, CoiL.  I don't know what an o-ring getter or dimpled disc are.
> 
> But it surely sounds good.  I'd describe the sound as refined, smooth and detailed.  Very musical.  The only drawback I can detect is the bass a little lose.


 
   
  If you look at the top of the tube, under the halo do you see a ring or a disc with dimples on it is what he is asking.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yes, under the halo, inside the tube, there a disk.


----------



## toschek

Does it have little nubs on it?


----------



## ajreynol

Hey guys is this amp okay for planars?  Got enough power?  I have a pair of HE5's and a pair of Mad Dogs that could use a bit more power than I currently have to drive them.
   
  thanks in advance.


----------



## toschek

1w about at HE-500 impedance, I would say it would be OK but those planars always want more power.


----------



## negura

If it helps, I have tried my LCD-2s on the Aune T1. They sound well, but as expected you won't get every bit out of them on the T1.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> I'm not sure, CoiL.  I don't know what an o-ring getter or dimpled disc are.
> 
> But it surely sounds good.  I'd describe the sound as refined, smooth and detailed.  Very musical.  The only drawback I can detect is the bass a little lose.


 
   
  I'm not home atm, but I recall mine to have a dimpled disc with a-frame support. That would make it a Holland 70's production? I don't know if there is any difference in sound between these versions, but the a-frame apparently just makes the tube less susceptible to microphonics. Anyways, like I told you man this is fantastic tube and should definitely be a part of everyone's collection. Also my best tube so far, but I'm sure there are still better ones to be found. Now I'm kind of sad that I have recommended those Russian tubes to people, since these globes are just so much better in every way. In my defence I didn't know of better then and rocket is still great value tube for the beginning roller. And I guess you have to have couple of inferior tubes to really respect and understand the quality of those better tubes.
   
  Dimpled disc = you have bumps in the disc which is located below the (silver) top of the tube.
   
  Single leg support = you have single metal support attached to the disc or getter (getter = ring with different shapes. Double ring getters are also available).
   
  A-frame support = you have /\ shaped dual support from the disc.
   
  I'm no pro so maybe somebody more experienced can provide more accurate info.
   
  E: Yes I would also describe orange globe to be very musical and enjoyable. Just a little bit more clarity and crispness and this would be the real winner.


----------



## toschek

No that rocket is a good recommendation. It actually gets substantially better after 100 hours break in, don't feel bad at all. Just break in the one you have when you're not listening. It will really open up.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> Yes, under the halo, inside the tube, there a disk.


 
  Then it`s probably same tube that I have (1969, GAC code, Heerlen Holland plant), glad that someone else can finally confirm how good this tube is  
   
  Imo the bass with this tube isn`t "little loose" like you told but I think it is also dependant on taste and cans.


----------



## DudeMyCans

Has anybody compared just the DAC with the Schiit Modi? I can't find any comparisons of just the DACs.

I want a new DAC to replace my E10 to go with my MSSH, and don't really need the amp. I'm also leaning towards the Modi as I'll have more chance of getting it into the house unnoticed and playing the 'No, that's not new. I've had it years' card when my wife asks me about it.

I'd also rather support the US balance of payments than the Chinese.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> No that rocket is a good recommendation. It actually gets substantially better after 100 hours break in, don't feel bad at all. Just break in the one you have when you're not listening. It will really open up.


 
   
  Yeah I guess you're right. It is a good tube and I still enjoy using it.
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> Imo the bass with this tube isn`t "little loose" like you told but I think it is also dependant on taste and cans.


 
   
  I also find the bass to be good. At least it's tighter and less boomy than in the case of rocket.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> I pretty much only listen to lossless rips played back on a Win7 PC using either MediaMonkey or Foobar2000.  I've got the analog out of the PC hooked up to an old Technics receiver that also drives a couple of small AR speakers right at the computer.  The PC is also hooked up to an HK AVR 445 via optical s/pdif. Headphone outs on both receivers sound pretty good to my ears. I have a Meier Corda HeadFive, but rarely use it anymore. Had been running a Zune into it (WMA lossless files), but my portable now is a Rockboxed Sansa Clip-Zip and I don't use it much indoors. Looking forward to running a USB to the Aune and then the line out to one of the HK analog inputs. I've also go an Emotiva XPA-3 coming to drive a set of MMG and MMGC from Magnepan that I have yet to order.  My current main speakers are a set of DIY I built about 10 years ago based on a design by Ed Frias that was on AudioReview.com.  I had a set of Magie 12s for a while driven by an Emotiva XPA-2, which I really loved. Long gone now.


 


 OK. Please , give me your impression when  using the K501 straight frome the Little Aune. It seems to my ears the T1 is not bad but is not enough but your opinion could be useful for me


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> OK. Please , give me your impression when  using the K501 straight frome the Little Aune. It seems to my ears the T1 is not bad but is not enough but your opinion could be useful for me


 
  I will say that the HeadFive does not adequately drive the 501s.  What are you using as your source when listening through the T1 with your 501s?


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Does it have little nubs on it?


 
   
  I don't think so.  It is very plain.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





ajreynol said:


> Hey guys is this amp okay for planars?  Got enough power?  I have a pair of HE5's and a pair of Mad Dogs that could use a bit more power than I currently have to drive them.
> 
> thanks in advance.


 
   
  It works great with the Mad Dogs.  I don't know about the HE5s.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> I don't think so.  It is very plain.


 
  What? I`m starting to think that you confuse disc getter with ring getter OR you are talking about the plate that is under getter because I haven`t seen any flat plate getter orange globe amperex 6DJ8 yet.
  Now, to make things clear, does this part of your tube look like this?


----------



## Grevlin

Ha!
   
  The one I received is an Orange globe dimpled-disk getter.
   
  That's...a good thing right?
   
  Right out of the box, I really did not like the sound. I actually switched back to the Electro-harmonix Gold for a while.
   
   
  3 or 4 days ago I put the Amperex back in and I've left it on since then. It seems to have really improved. Still test-driving it. I know my descriptions are terribly detail-less, but I'm still not schooled on the descriptive lingo.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Right out of the box, I really did not like the sound. I actually switched back to the Electro-harmonix Gold for a while.


 
  Seems that it`s totally up to taste in your case. You listen mainly electronic music? For rock/metal/jazz 6922EH sucks pretty much compared to Amperex.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> I will say that the HeadFive does not adequately drive the 501s.  What are you using as your source when listening through the T1 with your 501s?


 
   
  I use lostly FLACs from my laptop ( Ubuntu powered) + AuneT1 .


----------



## CoiL

Sorrodje, have you setup your software correctly @ Ubuntu? http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/post/125268/thread
  I was using it under Ubuntu for a while. Switched to W7x64 because Ubuntu couldn`t remember settings and I didn`t bother to mess with terminal commands.
  But the effect after doing like I did in the post I linked... it`s like killing windows internal mixer and using ASIO/WASAPI/KSP instead - huge difference in sound!


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> Seems that it`s totally up to taste in your case. You listen mainly electronic music? For rock/metal/jazz 6922EH sucks pretty much compared to Amperex.


 

 Actually, I like rock, classical , and Jazz...but I'll listen to almost anything as long as its "good."  No Rap or Country for me though.
   
   
  It's sounding better each day, from what I can tell.


----------



## CoiL

Then maybe your ears are just recovering from 6922EH sound? ;D


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Right out of the box, I really did not like the sound. I actually switched back to the Electro-harmonix Gold for a while.


 
   
  How does the EH gold compare to the regular stock EH? The stock EH is no match for orange globe, but these are only my personal opinions of course


----------



## CoiL

I belive they are pretty much same. Stock EH is great for electronic music imho! But yeah, sucks for metal/rock/jazz due to large soundstage, more loose bass and weaker mids section.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





coil said:


> Then maybe your ears are just recovering from 6922EH sound? ;D


 

 Ha - maybe.
   
  Honestly, I changed all the variables in the equation. My entire rig is new from front end to back end. I just need to give it time to start hearing the little things.
   
  I went from Terrible all the way to very very good in a short time. Now is the hard part to go from very very good to a little better.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> I belive they are pretty much same. Stock EH is great for electronic music imho! But yeah, sucks for metal/rock/jazz due to large soundstage, more loose bass and weaker mids section.


 
   
  Yes. I agree. Don't have much electronic music, but the ambient I have sounds good with EH. Mullard arrived today so I'll post impressions after getting some listening time.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





grevlin said:


> Ha - maybe.
> 
> Honestly, I changed all the variables in the equation. My entire rig is new from front end to back end. I just need to give it time to start hearing the little things.
> 
> I went from Terrible all the way to very very good in a short time. Now is the hard part to go from very very good to a little better.


 
   
  Dude many people like this tube so nothing wrong of liking it over the globe. It is relatively hard to compare tubes since it takes time to get the next tube warmed up. It was way easier for me to compare T1 vs E17. Just changed the output and tried to keep the mental image alive during this short switch. Now I have developed new methods to evaluate the sound of different tubes. Like you have probably seen I use drawings to evaluate the sound stage and imaging. I also listen how controlled and tight the bass is and how wide and deep the overall sound goes. Instrumental separation / transparency and mid range (vocal) presence are also important factors to me. It might also help to have multiple headphones to use. Some headphones can help evaluating certain sonic characteristics. If I don't like a certain tube I'll try to pinpoint the things that are off and check how these factors are handled with my favorite tubes.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





coil said:


> Sorrodje, have you setup your software correctly @ Ubuntu? http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/post/125268/thread
> I was using it under Ubuntu for a while. Switched to W7x64 because Ubuntu couldn`t remember settings and I didn`t bother to mess with terminal commands.
> But the effect after doing like I did in the post I linked... it`s like killing windows internal mixer and using ASIO/WASAPI/KSP instead - huge difference in sound!


 
   
  Sincerely , My T1 with Ubuntu and Pulseaudio sounds great to my ear with my Sig pro without any more settings  ... My question is more about T1's amp section and my K501 .


----------



## CoiL

Pulseaudio may work great but like I said - it`s like using Aune T1 through windows internal mixer. Just give it a try and you`ll hear clear difference! Belive me, I know what I`m talking about. Just give it a try. This is NOT somekind of SETTING - it`s about removing additional "settings" and listening pure sound.
   
  e: Btw, what software player are you using?


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





coil said:


> e: Btw, what software player are you using?


 
   
  Mostly Rhythmbox or Banshee . Sometimes Exaile or Audacious.
   
  For ALSA/pulse .. I had a home server dedicated to Music with only MPD + ALSA... I never heard any difference from my laptop with RB/Pulse. So I stopped to spend time for these kind of experience. IF i have enough time in next month, I will start again to build a dedicated Music server but now I'm happy with my current config.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Like Christmas at the BluesDaddy household this evening. Both my Emotiva amp AND my T1 arrived today. I have the T1 hooked up to my PC, line out to my H/K AVR and brown noise playing on repeat with my K501s plugged into the T1 headphone out - a chance to break in both the stock tube and loosen the 501s up some more, as they don't get as much attention as they deserve!!  I played a little music through the T1 via the H/K with MediaMonkey's output set to wasapi output via the T1. Not enough to really tell much - didn't sound worse than the PC s/pdif direct to the H/K but not noticeably better either. I suspect as I A/B that will change as the tube breaks in.  
   
  On the downside, an Amazon seller sent me the wrong CD from an order and I'm going to have to rearrange my equipment shelves to accommodate the height of the Emotiva - a 1/2" off.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> OK. Please , give me your impression when  using the K501 straight frome the Little Aune. It seems to my ears the T1 is not bad but is not enough but your opinion could be useful for me


 
  Initial impressions having listened for less than an hour, the T1 has no problem driving the K501 to levels louder than I listen. Sound quality seems pretty good even so soon, certainly no worse than listening through my HK. I haven't changed the gain settings on the bottom from 16db - but will probably try it with different settings.


----------



## Salvatore

Ok guys need some help here. I popped in the Mullard tube and hear music only from the left channel. Tried cleaning the pins but it doesn't seem to help. Any suggestions before I contact the seller for refund. This is so lame... especially because I really like what I'm hearing (from the left channel)


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Initial impressions having listened for less than an hour, the T1 has no problem driving the K501 to levels louder than I listen. Sound quality seems pretty good even so soon, certainly no worse than listening through my HK. I haven't changed the gain settings on the bottom from 16db - but will probably try it with different settings.


 
   
  Thanks !! Very useful . Your testimony keeps me from spending more money in another amp. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .. T1 is just perfect for my tastes and use


----------



## HolyCheese

Salvatore have you tested it with another tube or headphone?
Maybe check if there is some sound by putting the balance on the right channel. Don't know what for but I guess it should let out a little bit of sound.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





holycheese said:


> Salvatore have you tested it with another tube or headphone?
> Maybe check if there is some sound by putting the balance on the right channel. Don't know what for but I guess it should let out a little bit of sound.


 
   
  My other tubes work just fine. Maybe I should use something mechanical to clean those pins? I just wiped the pins with some cleanser.
   
  E: When I turn T1 on there is a short red flash coming from the root of the tube. After a while there is that normal white light again. I can definitely hear some weak rattling sound coming from the right channel.


----------



## HolyCheese

Maybe the tube broke, do you see any loose parts in the tube? I guess you should contact your seller if everything else works fine. 
  If you have some ethanol (rubbing alcohol) It should be able to clean the pins. I read somewhere (altough not sure) that sanding the pins is not good.


----------



## toschek

salvatore said:


> Ok guys need some help here. I popped in the Mullard tube and hear music only from the left channel. Tried cleaning the pins but it doesn't seem to help. Any suggestions before I contact the seller for refund. This is so lame... especially because I really like what I'm hearing (from the left channel)




If other tubes don't have the same issue and you've cleaned the pins then you have a bad tube and you should contact the seller, sorry man


----------



## Salvatore

Lame. This really seemed like a nice tube.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Riding into work this morning I was thinking of my initial impressions of the T1 with the stock tube and the word that came to mind was linear. By that I mean after about 12 hours of burn in using either brown noise or various blues or jazz, I heard nothing particularly exaggerated or deficient in the sound through my K501s. Now, I'm in my mid 50s and my hearing does not extend much above 15khz any more, so if there is top end roll off or some exaggeration (i.e. "brightness") I'm not hearing it. However, since most music resides under 15khz and I would expect some harmonics from signals higher up than that to have an impact on that range, I think my observation is probably pretty accurate. I haven't played any test tones through it to see how it compares to, for example, running my PC straight into my HK  (which is also handles 24/96 streams).  I will do that when I have opportunity and see if I can discern any differences.


----------



## Salvatore

Ok the seller is sending me a replace Mullard (its not a shield logo anymore though). I also added one medium O getter bugle boy to the deal since it's free shipping. What I could hear from the defective Mullard it seemed like a very nice warm bassy sounding tube. Definitely something I'd love to have in my collection.


----------



## BluesDaddy

So far, after only about 10 minutes of listening, I'm loving the Amperex Bugle Boy in the T1. It's a c. 1965 tube and very, well, "lush" is the best way I can describe it as compared to the stock tube - which sounded pretty good to me.  I listened to the Philips PCC189 for a little bit, but it sounded a bit "sucked out" compared to the stock as well the Bugle Boy. To be fair, I didn't really give it any chance at all to break in. It's an NOS so I'll probably put it back in and let it break in with some brown noise over night. But right now, listening to Miles' "Freddie the Freeloader" off of "Kind of Blue" is just enveloping.  The differences, to my ear, are probably more subtle than I'm making it seem, but they're definitely there.  Now you guys need to stop recommending tubes, it's killing my budget.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





coil said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  So, I guess we have different tubes after all.  Mine does not have a plate, dimpled or not.  It has a ring/disc and it is flat.


----------



## Salvatore

Ok so you have O getter with single leg. Just like in this photo (see the second photo): http://www.quartzacoustic.com/?product=amperex-orange-globe-logo-6dj86922-pre-amp-tube


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> It has a ring/disc and it is flat.


 
  You are making me laugh already ;D ...which one it is - ring OR disc? Ring can`t be flat, it has shape. Disc can be flat but I haven`t seen flat disc amperex orange globe.
  The only option must be ring I quess and we have different tubes.
   
  I was looking for these but it went over my budget: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Four-tested-Amperex-Globe-6DJ8-ECC88-pre-amp-tubes-/360601483237?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEDWX%3AIT&nma=true&si=YRe5GQgGuIHoj9zK4S7UZHtAMSg%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
   
  Anyone from here got them?


----------



## Xela71

New tubes on the way,  think I got good price on these
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Matched-Orange-Dimpled-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-Triodes-Amplitrex-3-/360602425371?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> The only option must be ring I quess and we have different tubes.


 
   
  So we all have different tubes. Coil has dimpled single support, I have dimpled A-frame support and Walfredo has O-getter single support. According to our impressions they all sound awesome 
   
  Quote: 





xela71 said:


> New tubes on the way,  think I got good price on these
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Matched-Orange-Dimpled-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-Triodes-Amplitrex-3-/360602425371?


 
   
  Seems like a very nice deal if shipping was reasonably priced (for Finland it seems to be almost $40). Oh man this tube hunting / rolling is just so much fun.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





xela71 said:


> New tubes on the way,  think I got good price on these
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Matched-Orange-Dimpled-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-Triodes-Amplitrex-3-/360602425371?


 
  Lucky "person"! -.-


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





xela71 said:


> New tubes on the way,  think I got good price on these
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Matched-Orange-Dimpled-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-Triodes-Amplitrex-3-/360602425371?


 
  Yes you did, don't know how I missed that auction. Missed out on one last night for a pair of these as well. I was willing to go up to $33 (shipping was $7) and another guy did $34 (but who knows how high he would have gone).


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Ok so you have O getter with single leg. Just like in this photo (see the second photo): http://www.quartzacoustic.com/?product=amperex-orange-globe-logo-6dj86922-pre-amp-tube


 

 Well, the site is down for the moment.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





coil said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Good that you are laughing, CoiL.  It is just my naivete.  Yes, I have a ring and it is flat.  I thought the ring could have dimples too.  I guess they just didn't manufacture one.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





xela71 said:


> New tubes on the way,  think I got good price on these
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Matched-Orange-Dimpled-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-Triodes-Amplitrex-3-/360602425371?


 
   
  Yes, I got mine from the "sister" auction (there were 3 auctions from the same seller within minutes apart).  But mine were a bit more expensive.  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130854054824?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
   
  Were you driving the price up in the first auction, Xela71?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> Well, the site is down for the moment.


 
   
  Yeah no need to bother any more. Its the same tube as in your ebay link. O (halo) getter with single leg support.


----------



## penmarker

You guys seem to be having lots of fun bidding for tubes over ebay.
  I can't, even if the tube is just like $14.00, the shipping price is astronomical. That last link Xela71 posted will charge me $42 for postage. It's hard to live on the other side of the globe.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> You guys seem to be having lots of fun bidding for tubes over ebay.
> I can't, even if the tube is just like $14.00, the shipping price is astronomical. That last link Xela71 posted will charge me $42 for postage. It's hard to live on the other side of the globe.


 
   
  Yeah it's not a fair game. If I lived in States I'd be buying lots of cheap tubes. Now I'm just searching deals mainly from UK and Germany.
   
  If you are looking for a single orange globe and don't mind gambling you could try this one from quartz acoustic (which I already linked once): http://www.quartzacoustic.com/?product=amperex-orange-globe-logo-6dj86922-pre-amp-tube it's S$27 + S$3 which totals about €18 or $24. I ordered my a-frame from there and it's working fine (I just don't know how many hours there is left). Also the shipping was very fast. They don't have any equipment to measure tubes, but they do use audio rigs to check that the tubes really work (you have to remember that some measurements can be made up and they don't guarantee that the tube is working. My Mullard, for example, measured beautifully but was still defective). You can also try haggling. That's how I got my a-frame for S$25. When I'm testing tubes I like to find cheap used NOS tubes. After I have found the ones I really like I can hunt for individuals that measure good and should last for many many hours.
   
  Another option is to contact the e-bay seller and ask if $40 really is the final shipping cost for your location. I just ordered bugle boy from States and the seller said that the postage costs less than $9. I think the shipping is negotiable and should be less than $10 if there are no insurances etc involved.
   
  Also be sure to check the customs. One of my tubes got stuck and I had to pay taxes (24%) before getting the tube. Here in Finland we used to be able to order items valued up to €44 tax free, but from the early 2013 they halved that. I wasn't aware of that and hence the customs. This turned out to be double bummer as the Mullard was also defective (yes my mullard shield logo cost me more than €22 shipped. Too bad I didn't know about the grotto deal back then).


----------



## CoiL

Damn, gotta check customs too, my Lorenz PCC189 might be "stuck" in there (I think it was slightly over 22€ for two tube, post included) ;(


----------



## walfredo

So, there are moments that the T1 sounds stressed (distorting the sound?) when using the otherwise lovely Amperex orange globe.  My Amperex is Old Old Stock, meaning the seller said it came from vintage equipment.  Would this explain in?  Did I just get a not-so-good exemplar?


----------



## toschek

walfredo said:


> So, there are moments that the T1 sounds stressed (distorting the sound?) when using the otherwise lovely Amperex orange globe.  My Amperex is Old Old Stock, meaning the seller said it came from vintage equipment.  Would this explain in?  Did I just get a not-so-good exemplar?




Yes, they start sounding a little feeble towards the end. Its not on/off like solid state, they kind of start sounding tired and crappy.


----------



## RAFA

Got the T1 yesterday. It comes with a Electro Harmonix tube 6922EH.
   
  How much difference will I hear, if I would change the tube? Where should I put my expectations? When I swapped op-amps in  my iBasso D10, the difference in sound signature was always great.
   
  I have bought some old (new) Soviet Tube and it is on my way.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





rafa said:


> Got the T1 yesterday. It comes with a Electro Harmonix tube 6922EH.
> 
> How much difference will I hear, if I would change the tube? Where should I put my expectations? When I swapped op-amps in  my iBasso D10, the difference in sound signature was always great.
> 
> I have bought some old (new) Soviet Tube and it is on my way.


 
  Most of this thread is about how different tubes sound in the T1 and which tube brings out the best (according to your taste, of course).  Peruse through it and you'll find a wealth of observations, but hold on to your wallet as it will whet your appetite to buy more tubes
 !


----------



## BluesDaddy

I've been working at breaking in my Philips 7ES8/PCC189 tube. My initial impressions were confirmed when I swapped it out yesterday after extensive listening with the Amperex Bugle Boy - it is bright and "brittle" sounding in comparison, with the mids fairly laid back.  Left it on all night with brown noise playing through it. Seems to have opened it up a bit after 9 hours or so constant playing, but it needs a whole lot more.  I've been listening with my AD900 and, as much as I love the sound of the K501, the detail on the AD900 is just an order higher. I probably need to listen to the Philips with the K501 and see how that synergy plays out.
   
On a side note, missed out on another ebay auction on three Amperex Orange Globes - I think they were "o" rings. The auction ended during work hours while I was in a meeting so I missed it at the end. They were NOT NOS, but tested really well - the three went for $24 plus, IIRC, $7 for shipping. A STEAL.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





rafa said:


> Got the T1 yesterday. It comes with a Electro Harmonix tube 6922EH.
> 
> How much difference will I hear, if I would change the tube? Where should I put my expectations?


 
   
  For me the stock EH doesn't have the best imaging and it's not as lush as some other tubes. I'd say that orange globe was my first *real* update from EH. My other tubes (so far) are not necessarily "better" but certainly different and hence it's all about personal tastes. I personally don't like EH and feel that it's my least favorite tube. For the music I normally listen my other tubes are better imo. The differences are there but not always so obvious. It can take multiple A/B rolls to start feeling the differences, but you should immediately notice when you have popped in a good tube. Good headphones help of course and the headphone synergy plays huge role. Warm and lush tubes go better with bright headphones (with treble spikes and bass roll off such as Grados and AKGs...) etc. I'd say that inferior tubes limit the potential of T1 and you need those better tubes to really see what this small box can do.
   
  Orange globe has very good imaging, goes both deep and wide and is more mellow than the EH. The bass is good but could always be tighter. At this moment (before I get anything better) this tube gets my highest recommendation. It is very good overall tube and can be sniped relatively cheap.
   

  (source: Innerfidelity)


----------



## RAFA

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> For me the stock EH doesn't have the best imaging and it's not as lush as some other tubes. I'd say that orange globe was my first *real* update from EH. My other tubes (so far) are not necessarily "better" but certainly different and hence it's all about personal tastes. I personally don't like EH and feel that it's my least favorite tube. For the music I normally listen my other tubes are better imo. The differences are there but not always so obvious. It can take multiple A/B rolls to start feeling the differences, but you should immediately notice when you have popped in a good tube. Good headphones help of course and the headphone synergy plays huge role. Warm and lush tubes go better with bright headphones (with treble spikes and bass roll off such as Grados and AKGs...) etc. I'd say that inferior tubes limit the potential of T1 and you need those better tubes to really see what this small box can do.
> 
> Orange globe has very good imaging, goes both deep and wide and is more mellow than the EH. The bass is good but could always be tighter. At this moment (before I get anything better) this tube gets my highest recommendation. It is very good overall tube and can be sniped relatively cheap.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Thanks. As soon as I get the 6N1P-VI, I will try the "Orange Globe" one.
   
  Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Most of this thread is about how different tubes sound in the T1 and which tube brings out the best (according to your taste, of course).  Peruse through it and you'll find a wealth of observations, but hold on to your wallet as it will whet your appetite to buy more tubes
> !


 
   
  Do not think of me as lazy bum, who do not read posts and comments. The content of this thread is the initial reason for buying a T1. My question is rather, how much weight is behind a sound difference.
  In the end it does not matter, my wallet will suffer


----------



## CoiL

Difference between 6922EH vs. Amperex 6DJ8/ECC88 Orange globe (at least my dimpled disc single leg GAC coded) is huge! But I like EH tube - mostly with ambient atmospheric electronic music. Amperex is also my top recommendation. 
   
  Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> I've been working at breaking in my Philips 7ES8/PCC189 tube. My initial impressions were confirmed when I swapped it out yesterday after extensive listening with the Amperex Bugle Boy - it is bright and "brittle" sounding in comparison, with the mids fairly laid back.  Left it on all night with brown noise playing through it. Seems to have opened it up a bit after 9 hours or so constant playing, but it needs a whole lot more.  I've been listening with my AD900 and, as much as I love the sound of the K501, the detail on the AD900 is just an order higher. I probably need to listen to the Philips with the K501 and see how that synergy plays out.


 
   
  Do you have Holland made Philips PCC189? If I remember correctly there are also German or UK made Philips PCC189 available. Mine is Holland Heerlen factory and it sounds very very similiar to Mullard new shield logo ECC88. Compared to Amperex I have, they both are little bright sided. Mids I find ok but highs seem littlebit laid out too flat for me. But yeah, Amperex definitely has better mids and everything else is way better.


----------



## debuchan

Hey everyone!
   
  I bought this recently and am thoroughly enjoying listening to music (I often forget what time it is anymore). I was wondering if anyone has had any experience pairing these up with the Fostex R50TP?
   
  Thanks


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yes, exactly like that.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





debuchan said:


> Hey everyone!
> 
> I bought this recently and am thoroughly enjoying listening to music (I often forget what time it is anymore). I was wondering if anyone has had any experience pairing these up with the Fostex R50TP?
> 
> Thanks


 

 I have the mad dog alpha, which is a mod of the R50TP, and the T1 works very well with it.  I would expect it to work well with the original R50TP too.


----------



## debuchan

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> I have the mad dog alpha, which is a mod of the R50TP, and the T1 works very well with it.  I would expect it to work well with the original R50TP too.


 
  Thanks.
   
  I was wondering, how do you all with multiple tubes store them? Do you have an organizer tray or anything? The idea of having multiple tubes sounds like it would be fun...


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





debuchan said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I was wondering, how do you all with multiple tubes store them? Do you have an organizer tray or anything? The idea of having multiple tubes sounds like it would be fun...


 
   
  I keep mine in a cloth and foam lined cigar case.   You really want to make sure they don't roll around or bang into each other in storage.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





debuchan said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I was wondering, how do you all with multiple tubes store them? Do you have an organizer tray or anything? The idea of having multiple tubes sounds like it would be fun...


 
   

  Got a few more in there since the pic.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





rafa said:


> Do not think of me as lazy bum, who do not read posts and comments. The content of this thread is the initial reason for buying a T1. My question is rather, how much weight is behind a sound difference.
> In the end it does not matter, my wallet will suffer


 
  I think it depends on the quality of the tubes being swapped. I only have three tubes, so far (have three more coming and who knows what more I will buy!!)  My PCC189 is noticeably brighter than the stock tube or my Bugle Boy. The difference between the Bugle Boy and the stock tube is apparent after a minute or two to me - not an immediate, but a gradual "wow, this is...".  I think we all tend to over state differences in trying to communicate what we hear, but I will readily admit to my high end register not being what it use to be.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Do you have Holland made Philips PCC189? If I remember correctly there are also German or UK made Philips PCC189 available. Mine is Holland Heerlen factory and it sounds very very similiar to Mullard new shield logo ECC88. Compared to Amperex I have, they both are little bright sided. Mids I find ok but highs seem littlebit laid out too flat for me. But yeah, Amperex definitely has better mids and everything else is way better.


 
  Yes, from memory it either says just "Holland" on it or "Heerlen, Holland", but it is definitely Holland.  It may also be that to my ears, the recessed mids on the PCC189 make it sound bright/brittle after listening to the Bugle Boy - it is just sucks you into listening and washes over you - a gentle rain rather than a pin prick shower.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> Yes, exactly like that.


 
  Sry to hear that. Your orange has gone bad. R.I.P. I have 2 bad Mullard PCC189`s that make sound like that.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





coil said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yeah, I'm said.  I really liked these tubes.
   
  So, when people on ebay say stuff like "here for your enjoyment is a AMPEREX BUGLE BOY 6DJ8 TRIPLET tested on a Stark 9-66 tube tester. @7000-6750,6000-5750,6000-5500  6700Umho is new", what exactly does this mean?  That one of the tubes is better than new?
   
What's is the resistance/impedance (or other spec) I should look for when buying an Amperex golden globe?


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> So, there are moments that the T1 sounds stressed (distorting the sound?) when using the otherwise lovely Amperex orange globe.  My Amperex is Old Old Stock, meaning the seller said it came from vintage equipment.  Would this explain in?  Did I just get a not-so-good exemplar?


 
   
  would you be able to return it?
   
  here is good read I thought for tube-rollers: http://www.greenbulletmics.com/VACUUM_TUBES.html


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





icecap said:


> here is good read I thought for tube-rollers: http://www.greenbulletmics.com/VACUUM_TUBES.html


 
  Good info, thanks for the link!


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





icecap said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Not sure yet.  They are still mostly good.  The distortion only kicks in rarely.  I may keep them while I don't find better ones.
   
   


> here is good read I thought for tube-rollers: http://www.greenbulletmics.com/VACUUM_TUBES.html


 
   
  Great!  Thanks for the link.


----------



## toschek

walfredo said:


> Yeah, I'm said.  I really liked these tubes.
> 
> So, when people on ebay say stuff like "here for your enjoyment is a AMPEREX BUGLE BOY 6DJ8 TRIPLET tested on a Stark 9-66 tube tester. @7000-6750,6000-5750,6000-5500  6700Umho is new", what exactly does this mean?  That one of the tubes is better than new?
> 
> ...




It means that 6700 is considered the acceptable measurement for a "new" tune and one tests above that. It's not that uncommon for things to go above/below spec, these tubes for the most part were made long before 6 sigma was a glimmer in Jack Welch's eye. Its also IMO ludicrous the numbers people will claim for their tester a lot of the time and should be taken with a liberal serving of salt. How are you supposed to know the tester was calibrated properly or the person operating it even knew what they were doing?


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Thanks again, toscheck.  You guys are an awesome source of knowledge!!! 
   
  But, why are there two numbers per tube?  I take the unit is a misspelt micro-ohm and therefore this is a measurement of impedance or resistance? Where can I find the specs for the Amperex Orange Globe?
   
  Maybe more important, any useful hints on how to spot good sellers on ebay?
   
  On a bright note, I found that one of the two Amperexes I have is better than the other.  And using the T1 only as DAC and doing the headphone amp on my Integra works just fine.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Its also IMO ludicrous the numbers people will claim for their tester a lot of the time and should be taken with a liberal serving of salt. How are you supposed to know the tester was calibrated properly or the person operating it even knew what they were doing?


 
   
  This. I use ebay to snipe deals and test tubes (won't be buying anything expensive). I also occasionally check the items of sellers I've been happy with.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





debuchan said:


> I was wondering, how do you all with multiple tubes store them? Do you have an organizer tray or anything? The idea of having multiple tubes sounds like it would be fun...


 
   


   
  Got that 6 tube haul today. For my suprise there were 3 telefunkens with diamond shapes in the bottom! I thought there would only be 2. There was also one Siemens and one Valvo tube + one that I cannot identify. All the prints are worn off, but the factory code is DJ3 D2L3. If somebody knows how to identify this it would be much obliged.
   
  Teles sound very good. Transparent and holographic. Siemens is also great. Valvo is not bad but clearly the worst of the bunch (this tube has the weirdest imaging). Overall I'm VERY happy with this purchase. More impressions to come as I get more time with my new babies  Bugle boy, brimar CV and mullard O getter are still on the way. These three will complete my 10 tube cigar box collection. After that I'll start replacing the inferior tubes until I'm happy with all 10.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Got that 6 tube haul today. For my suprise there were 3 telefunkens with diamond shapes in the bottom! I thought there would only be 2. There was also one Siemens and one Valvo tube + one that I cannot identify. All the prints are worn off, but the factory code is DJ3 D2L3. If somebody knows how to identify this it would be much obliged.
> 
> Teles sound very good. Transparent and holographic. Siemens is also great. Valvo is not bad but clearly the worst of the bunch (this tube has the weirdest imaging). Overall I'm VERY happy with this purchase. More impressions to come as I get more time with my new babies  Bugle boy, brimar CV and mullard O getter are still on the way. These three will complete my 10 tube cigar box collection. After that I'll start replacing the inferior tubes until I'm happy with all 10.


 
  Nice. Great haul!  Work and family are sorely interfering with my ability to snip tubes!


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Looks awesome!!  Congrats!


----------



## BluesDaddy

Well, after probably 24 hours of break in, the Philips 7ES8/PCC189 is sounding MUCH better. I also switched to listening through my K501s.  Better synergy all around. Not up to the Bugle Boy, but very nice - which is great because I got this at a very nice price.  My two Voskhods haven't arrived yet - took the seller 4 days just to get them in the post and Russian postal service is apparently not the fastest in the world, but my Mullard was put in the mail a couple days ago from the UK. Also pulled the trigger on a used RCA ECC88 made in Holland.  From what I've researched, these were made by Amperex. Good price so I'm not overly worried if it winds up being sub-par.


----------



## debuchan

Wow, so nice!
   
  (...and very cool, I might add!)
  Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Got that 6 tube haul today. For my suprise there were 3 telefunkens with diamond shapes in the bottom! I thought there would only be 2. There was also one Siemens and one Valvo tube + one that I cannot identify. All the prints are worn off, but the factory code is DJ3 D2L3. If somebody knows how to identify this it would be much obliged.
> 
> Teles sound very good. Transparent and holographic. Siemens is also great. Valvo is not bad but clearly the worst of the bunch (this tube has the weirdest imaging). Overall I'm VERY happy with this purchase. More impressions to come as I get more time with my new babies  Bugle boy, brimar CV and mullard O getter are still on the way. These three will complete my 10 tube cigar box collection. After that I'll start replacing the inferior tubes until I'm happy with all 10.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Got that 6 tube haul today. For my suprise there were 3 telefunkens with diamond shapes in the bottom! I thought there would only be 2. There was also one Siemens and one Valvo tube + one that I cannot identify. All the prints are worn off, but the factory code is DJ3 D2L3. If somebody knows how to identify this it would be much obliged.
> 
> Teles sound very good. Transparent and holographic. Siemens is also great. Valvo is not bad but clearly the worst of the bunch (this tube has the weirdest imaging). Overall I'm VERY happy with this purchase. More impressions to come as I get more time with my new babies  Bugle boy, brimar CV and mullard O getter are still on the way. These three will complete my 10 tube cigar box collection. After that I'll start replacing the inferior tubes until I'm happy with all 10.


 
  Salvatore, I liked this so much I'm ordering a wooden cigar box off of Ebay to do the same. I've also bought three more tubes - a couple of "used" Amperexes, one of which definitely appears to be a dimpled Orange Globe. A really nice low price on both. The other an NOS RCA ECC88 with Gold Pins, made in the USA for a stupidly low price.  That's nine total for me. Gotta stop the madness!!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Nice. Great haul!


 
   
  Quote: 





walfredo said:


> Looks awesome!!  Congrats!


 
   
  Quote: 





debuchan said:


> Wow, so nice!  (...and very cool, I might add!)


 
   
  Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Salvatore, I liked this so much I'm ordering a wooden cigar box off of Ebay to do the same. I've also bought three more tubes - a couple of "used" Amperexes, one of which definitely appears to be a dimpled Orange Globe. A really nice low price on both. The other an NOS RCA ECC88 with Gold Pins, made in the USA for a stupidly low price.  That's nine total for me. Gotta stop the madness!!


 
   
  Hey thanks guys. I also think this is very cool setup. Feel free to do the same. Cigar boxes look very nice and smell nice too (I'm no smoker but still) 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Just remember to take the dimensions into careful consideration, especially if you are planning on inserting the tubes in standing position. The foam plactic that came with T1 is perfect for lining the bottom of the box (it's thick enough so that the pins are not going through). You can also easily see the pin holes after removing the tube. Also the tape I used is not normal painter's tape but thicker and stronger freezer tape. Happy hunting guys and as long as we keep buying relatively cheap tubes it's fun and not so expensive hobby (for us T1 owners it's really hard to justify putting anything over $50 to one tube. You can get great tubes for only a fraction of that). It's really rewarding to hear the differences in sound + these vintage tubes look very nice. Looking forward of seeing more storing solutions.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





coil said:


> Btw, guys&girls, I think I`ve stumbled on something good for all of you! Did comparing with Mullard ECC88 shield logo VS. Philips PCC189 and they sound basically identical! I have to have some more listening but atm, After comparing with Metallica - ST.Anger & Silversun Pickups - Simmer.... I can`t make difference! Even if it has difference it is definitely so minor that it doesn`t matter.
> 
> Now to the good part - this tube costs only 6.95$ (4.55£) + shipping! There`s 11 of them available. Here is the eBay link (I bought mine from there): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251224635718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


 
  Seems they are back on sale: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PHILIPS-PCC189-7ES8-NOS-NIB-VINTAGE-VACUUM-TUBE-HEERLEN-HOLLAND-/261179952214?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3ccf89cc56
   
  Also, got good news finally about my Lorenz PCC189 - they are in post office sorting centre, will receive them in monday.
   
  E:
   
  Salvatore, this is good shop for your location: http://uraltone.com/kauppa/index.php?cat=c5_-b--BIG-Tubes--BIG---b-.html&XTCsid=0lcf819aam27nd4jdnkn8e0ej2
  Thinking about getting JJ E88CC & Ultron PCC189 from there but must choose something more to get 30€ in total (needed for orders outside Finland).


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Salvatore, this is good shop for your location: http://uraltone.com/kauppa/index.php?cat=c5_-b--BIG-Tubes--BIG---b-.html&XTCsid=0lcf819aam27nd4jdnkn8e0ej2
> Thinking about getting JJ E88CC & Ultron PCC189 from there but must choose something more to get 30€ in total (needed for orders outside Finland).


 
   
  Thanks. I'll check that out. I'm glad that your Lorenz is safely on its way.


----------



## RAFA

Does someone use this DAC with the Mini Dac TDA1543 X 4 NOS?
   
  How does it sound compared to the internal DAC?


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





coil said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Thanks fo sharing the link on the Philips, CoiL.  How do you compare them with your Amperex orange globe?


----------



## CoiL

I already said how they compare. Read earlier posts. Shortly - they are closest thing to my Amperex single leg dimpled disc GAC coded tube. But my amperex isn`t same as yours so I don`t know how much this helps. 
   
  Btw, couldn`t resist, bought 2 more tubes. 2x NOS/NIB Ultron PCC189 for only 12$ : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCC189-7ES8-NIB-2-PCS-AUDIO-TUBES-NOS-/321076193500?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&clk_rvr_id=457287433629&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=ITZY9W5ZgOkunpSK7zvGwDfHptE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
   
  Boxes say German made and seem to be coded delta0811.


----------



## HolyCheese

I bought these:
  http://www.ebay.nl/itm/260806910658?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_1054
   
  And to my surprise there was another tube delivered. A FSG PCC189. I have no clue if it's any good but I got a nice free tube 
   
  Damnit I want to buy more tubes but my mom forbid me to... I feel ashamed now


----------



## CoiL

HolyCheese, it should be almost same sounding that 6922EH. I have Tungsram PCC88 and as far as I have read it`s basically same tube as Tungsram PCC189. PCC88 variant has tighter and punchier bass than 6922EH, otherwise it`s quite same sounding. It`s good tube for electronic music and for HP`s little low on bass. But I might be wrong, your PCC189 might sound different. Anyway, I like my PCC88 tungsram for electronic music and it`s good tube. For rock/metal/jazz it isn`t so good.


----------



## HolyCheese

I currently have 3 different tubes, when I get my T1 I will have 4. Should be a good starting point.
  Anyone knows an ebay link with a must have? Or a lot with different kinds of tubes or something?


----------



## CoiL

So, we should hunt down good tubes for you? Dude, there`s already a lot of info here, for example that cheap Philips PCC189 I recommended as substitute for Mullard ECC88. If you want to go for sure thing, grab Amperex orange globe.


----------



## icecap

Holycheese, I posted this link before which I feel is a good reference to point you the values and expectations to the old productions of tube you can or hardly find now... http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm

Hah, coil, I just can't help but feel Millard ecc88 and Philips pcc189 are not even directly replaceable, much less being a substitute.. This is like substituting orange juice in a cocktail with grapefruit's... Agree on the amperex orange globe though being one of the good bets..


----------



## CoiL

Sry icecap, but the Mullard ECC88 & Philips PCC189 I have sound very very similiar, can`t do anything about it because that`s what I hear. Do you yourself have both of them to confirm your opinion?
 For me it is great replacement for more expensive Mullard ECC88. I don`t urge anybody to buy that PCC189 but if I would have to choose between them, would take cheaper Philips PCC189. Btw, there are two types Philips PCC189 - one is Holland Heerlen plant (I have this one) and other is UK Blackburn plant. My Mullard ECC88 is also Holland made.


----------



## HolyCheese

I will look into the info


----------



## BigCabDaddy

OK, I'm in a chatty mood so even though I'm still in the camp of future Aune T1 owners, I just have to interject: All this tube talk cracks me up. Most especially the "burn in" aspects. Are we just ignoring that tubes are NEVER static in sound? They are in constant flux. That is part of what I find so intriguing about tube amplification actually. Tubes have a life path all their own. Very "organic" creatures. I can see maybe wanting to hurry them out of their "toddler" stage, but I'll be in no hurry to push them to "maturity" because I know all too well from real life and guitar playing experience that the mature phase is gone in a twinkling of an eye and then it's all downhill from there. /running and ducking


----------



## debuchan

I swear, you people are a bad influence... and an inspiration, lol
   
  Just bought the tube CoiL linked to (thanks for that!) and looking at cigar boxes.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





bigcabdaddy said:


> OK, I'm in a chatty mood so even though I'm still in the camp of future Aune T1 owners, I just have to interject: All this tube talk cracks me up. Most especially the "burn in" aspects. Are we just ignoring that tubes are NEVER static in sound? They are in constant flux. That is part of what I find so intriguing about tube amplification actually. Tubes have a life path all their own. Very "organic" creatures. I can see maybe wanting to hurry them out of their "toddler" stage, but I'll be in no hurry to push them to "maturity" because I know all too well from real life and guitar playing experience that the mature phase is gone in a twinkling of an eye and then it's all downhill from there. /running and ducking


 
  Don't run too far! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I hear what you're saying, but wondering if hifi puts the same stress on a tube as guitar playing.  We're not driving tubes into distortion, etc., so perhaps that sweet spot last longer - especially for these pre-amp tubes.  The Philips tube I have I HAD to push it because it was practically unlistenable to me in the beginning. It sounds so sweet now I'm glad I did what I did.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Hey thanks guys. I also think this is very cool setup. Feel free to do the same. Cigar boxes look very nice and smell nice too (I'm no smoker but still)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  All good points. Fortunately, I thought about this when choosing a box to buy. At first I was looking at a box that was just 3 inches deep. Took a tube box out and measured it and it was 3 inches, so I knew that wasn't going to work. I wound up getting the one here, 4.5 inches deep. I think it's a pretty little box!


----------



## BigCabDaddy

bluesdaddy said:


> Don't run too far!   I hear what you're saying, but wondering if hifi puts the same stress on a tube as guitar playing.  We're not driving tubes into distortion, etc., so perhaps that sweet spot last longer - especially for these pre-amp tubes.  The Philips tube I have I HAD to push it because it was practically unlistenable to me in the beginning. It sounds so sweet now I'm glad I did what I did.




You're probably right Sal. My Fender Blues Junior sits in my studio never moving and rarely even getting fired up and as far as I can tell, the sound has been relatively "static" as opposed to my Bassman 100 that went through tubes several times a year while on the road. As to the pre-amp v power tube aspect, I'm not techie enough to know the difference in stresses that way. Referring back to my guitar amp experience, it was mostly power tubes I was replacing so maybe you're onto something. Now drawing on a difference reference point of my HK Citation tube gear, it was in constant need of maintenance in terms of biasing, replacement, etc. even though they sat in one place. All that had to do with multiple tubes though too so maybe having only one changes things? (Certainly there is nothing to bias!)


----------



## davidk9205

[size=small]Hello All,[/size]
 [size=small]  [/size]
 [size=small] I am after a new amp at the moment.[/size]
 [size=small] I currently have an Audinst Hud-MX1 and have a pair of HD600's, Digitecs (Re-branded Fisher FA003) and Triplefi 10.[/size]
 [size=small] I am close to affording a Schiit Asgard 2 for $349AUD.[/size]
 [size=small] I am going to use the MX1 as the DAC into the Asgard.[/size]
 [size=small]  [/size]
 [size=small] Now that I have read this entire thread (alright, I'm up to p68) I am interested in the T1.[/size]
 [size=small] I like the idea of tube rolling, although with my addictive personality and limited funds, no doubt this will become an issue![/size]
 [size=small] I also love bang for buck products.[/size]
 [size=small]  [/size]
 [size=small] My question is will the T1 be a clear improvement over the Audinst?[/size]
 [size=small] Has anyone heard both?[/size]
 [size=small]  [/size]
 [size=small] Thanks in advance for any answers.[/size]
 [size=small]  [/size]
 [size=small] TL;DR - Is the T1 clearly better than the MX1?[/size]


----------



## CoiL

Depends on taste imo. For me, only transistor based sound has never been so natural as tube sound. Athough some would say that tube is pointless extra buffer in Aune T1 inner-chain that brings audio even further from  "pure clear" source. I personally think opposite, this tube buffer makes everything more natural and better. Because of that, for me, there would not be any comparing with MX1 - T1 is clear winner.
  But with your collected budget, maybe I would look into Schiit Lyr? If you want to save money and not "climb" for much more higher end stuff, then Aune T1 should not disappoint you. It`s bang for a buck dac/amp for sure.
   
   



debuchan said:


> I swear, you people are a bad influence... and an inspiration, lol
> 
> Just bought the tube CoiL linked to (thanks for that!) and looking at cigar boxes.


 
  I hope you won`t be disappointed, especially for the money you get that tube. I decided to do some more burn-in with Mullard ECC88 and this Philips PCC189 and see if I can find noticeable differences after that. Don`t forget to post you impressions about that tube. Let it also burn-in for some time, mine got better after ~48h music playing.

   
  E: If those Holland Heerlen type run out of stock, then there are also quite cheap UK Blackburn plant type available: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Philips-PCC189-Rohre-NOS-Tube-PCC-189-by-Mullard-Blackburn-Ersatz-E88CC-6DJ8-/120944646451?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&hash=item1c28dcd933#ht_628wt_952
  Although, I don`t have experience how they sound compared to Heerlen plant ones.


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





coil said:


> Sry icecap, but the Mullard ECC88 & Philips PCC189 I have sound very very similiar, can`t do anything about it because that`s what I hear. Do you yourself have both of them to confirm your opinion?
> For me it is great replacement for more expensive Mullard ECC88. I don`t urge anybody to buy that PCC189 but if I would have to choose between them, would take cheaper Philips PCC189. Btw, there are two types Philips PCC189 - one is Holland Heerlen plant (I have this one) and other is UK Blackburn plant. My Mullard ECC88 is also Holland made.


 
   
  hah.. unfortunately I don't.. I guess they sound similar because they came from Holland.. But you definitely itching me getting another Philips seeing how you comparing the PCC189 with Mullard ECC88!
   
  I like Holland tubes though! had a Philips ECC88 then realised it was sold cheaper here http://www.quartzacoustic.com/?product=philips-ecc88-a-frame-pre-amp-tube than I got it for! argh! but liking this tube as time goes.. from the link given in my last post, Brent Jesse mentioned this tube is from same production factory as Bugle Boy.. this tube is giving me the sense of space more than gold lion.. a very lively tube to enjoy that opens up at the top!


----------



## CoiL

icecap, whats the code on your Philips ECC88/6DJ8 tube?
   
  btw, don`t get me wrong, I didn`t mean that PCC189 is 1:1 with Mullard ECC88 but the difference is so little that it`s hard to comment. They are very similiar sounding.
  Will update my opinion about those two after having some more burn-in. Atm, I don`t prefer one sound over the other. Maybe it will change after more burning.


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





coil said:


> icecap, whats the code on your Philips ECC88/6DJ8 tube?


 
   
  ⊿0B4


----------



## CoiL

My Philips PCC189 has ⊿5B4


----------



## toschek

CoiL, how is the PCC189 working out for you? I just picked up a matched Telefunken pair for my Lyr, apparently they should work but I don't think anyone has ever tested them, could be the next FOTM or a total bust. I have no idea what kind of effect a variable mu will have on sound quality.


----------



## CoiL

So far, all the PCC189 I have work and sound great and can`t hear any distortions or "sound change" something like that If you meant it by variable mu. If its already very hard to compare Mullard ecc88 and philips pcc189 - it says a lot imo. At the moment I`m listening with Mazda PCC189 since I have mixed music styles playlist running. Giving that mazda also more burn time.


----------



## teb1013

I posted this question elsewhere but it was ignored. My question is whether  this eBay ad for a $139 Aune T1 is a fraud or is it worth a shot? I'd love to get one.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Decoder-With-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-Pre-amp-/200880585685?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2ec56a7bd5


----------



## davidk9205

coil said:


> Depends on taste imo. For me, only transistor based sound has never been so natural as tube sound. Athough some would say that tube is pointless extra buffer in Aune T1 inner-chain that brings audio even further from  "pure clear" source. I personally think opposite, this tube buffer makes everything more natural and better. Because of that, for me, there would not be any comparing with MX1 - T1 is clear winner.
> But with your collected budget, maybe I would look into Schiit Lyr? If you want to save money and not "climb" for much more higher end stuff, then Aune T1 should not disappoint you. It`s bang for a buck dac/amp for sure.
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## CoiL

Holy ******! I`m having eargasm now. I haven`t talked much about my Mullard yellow old style logo PCC189 (metal vertical plate). Won`t give detailed impressions atm but what I can say is - it`s the first foward/intimate sounding tube I like! I find it better than 6N23P reflector logo. Metal/rock/progressive sounds very good with external speakers. Will give more impressions when I finally recieve my Lorenz PCC189 on monday. Will compare Philips, Lorenz and Mullard PCC189`s. 
   
  E: Is this Mullard PCC189 better than my amperex? No, but I enjoy this tube very much and to be honest, I`m starting to like it more than Philips PCC189, at least with external speakers. Haven`t done serious head-to-head comparing with HP`s.
   
  E2: I gotta stay away from eBay! -.- Just bought these: 
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281071642939?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
  &
  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281071635446?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## BigCabDaddy

teb1013 said:


> I posted this question elsewhere but it was ignored. My question is whether  this eBay ad for a $139 Aune T1 is a fraud or is it worth a shot? I'd love to get one.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Decoder-With-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-Pre-amp-/200880585685?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2ec56a7bd5




What makes you think it might be a fraud? 400+ transactions at 99.6% satisfaction sounds pretty good to me. I'm tempted personally to go for it.


----------



## zerogun

Something for you tube fanatics. I have to say, this is absolute heaven walking into this place 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 http://instagr.am/p/WrJnQgtMnn/
   
  This was just one display case of a wall full of tubes


----------



## CoiL

I really got to make a case for my tubes. I just counted them and when I include incoming tubes, I have 17 of them O_o
 Seriously, 20 is the limit, the end!


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> I posted this question elsewhere but it was ignored. My question is whether  this eBay ad for a $139 Aune T1 is a fraud or is it worth a shot? I'd love to get one.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Decoder-With-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-Pre-amp-/200880585685?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2ec56a7bd5


 
   
  I bought my Aune T1 from them.  The transaction was flawless.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> I posted this question elsewhere but it was ignored. My question is whether  this eBay ad for a $139 Aune T1 is a fraud or is it worth a shot? I'd love to get one.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Decoder-With-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-Pre-amp-/200880585685?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2ec56a7bd5


 
  I saw that a week back or so and actually was a little ticked. I ordered from the same seller for $160! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Flawless transaction, came in about 10 days. No worries.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





icecap said:


> Holycheese, I posted this link before which I feel is a good reference to point you the values and expectations to the old productions of tube you can or hardly find now... http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm


 
   This is a great site to read through if you're just starting out with tubes and trying to get a feel for the differences as well as the nomenclature. Big help to me when icecap originally posted it. Also, Google is your friend. There is TONS of info out there on tubes (valves).


----------



## HolyCheese

Hey guys, 
  I saw this post and maybe it's a good buy if the shipping is low. There are 2 hrs and 40 mins left.
  Edit: Nope, not good 
   
  Let's be kind to eachother and say it when you have made a bidding. That way we aren't going to overbid eachother as fellow headfi-ers. 
  Please confirm if this is a good deal btw, I'm a tube noob.


----------



## CoiL

These tubes will not fit for aune t1 ! Please read this thread more carefully. If you are tube noob like you say then do some more research! All info is out there.
  And hoping that noone won`t over-bid you is also "stupid". Ebay is for bidding, if you lose then you lose. Deal with it.
   
  E: To make your life easier and avoid excess questions, these are tubes that will fit for Aune T1:
   
*6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, **6N27P,** 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, , E188CC, *
*ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, CV5358*
   
   
  E2: Bought another tube ;D Miniwatt Dario PCC189 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230937379911?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## RAFA

Thank you CoiL, this helps me too.
   
  If anyone here puts in a Cca, then please make a photo. It is said that these alone, make you rig sound 2-3 classes better.
   
  However, I am going to try a different approach. In this moment I bought a MUSE mini Hifi DIR9001 4x TDA1543. In the dedicated thread it is stated, that it can battle some 1000$ DAC. The Aune T1 as amp (in combination with some good tube) and this DAC will probably equal a very good sounding desktop-rig.
   
  Hopefully it will be this week at my door.
   
  Additionally I also bought a Siemens E88CC Tube. I cannot say, if it is a good one...


----------



## CoiL

RAFA, if you use Aune T1 as AMP ONLY (RCA line in @ Aune T1) then tube won`t take part of audio chain! Tube is working ONLY when USB is used!


----------



## RAFA

Quote: 





coil said:


> RAFA, if you use Aune T1 as AMP ONLY (RCA line in @ Aune T1) then tube won`t take part of audio chain! Tube is working ONLY when USB is used!


 
   
  Aiiii, thats bad, but thank you anyway. However, I will still keep the DAC and see...
   
  Let's look forward to the Siemens tube


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





rafa said:


> Thank you CoiL, this helps me too.
> 
> If anyone here puts in a Cca, then please make a photo. It is said that these alone, make you rig sound 2-3 classes better.
> 
> ...


 
   
  RAFA:  Let us know how the MUSE compares with the Aune T1 as a DAC.  I've being curious about it, but I am a bit skeptical it be a better DAC than the T1.


----------



## debuchan

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> I posted this question elsewhere but it was ignored. My question is whether  this eBay ad for a $139 Aune T1 is a fraud or is it worth a shot? I'd love to get one.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Decoder-With-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-Pre-amp-/200880585685?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2ec56a7bd5


 

 I bought my T1 from them- it took a long time. I waited for three weeks before they informed that the package was returned to them because the address was illegible.
   
  They later sent it again, via express. They upgraded the tube for me too, which was nice.


----------



## icecap

rafa said:


> Thank you CoiL, this helps me too.
> 
> If anyone here puts in a Cca, then please make a photo. It is said that these alone, make you rig sound 2-3 classes better.




Hah.. RAFA, Cca tube is top and top of the crop.. Getting your hand on one of these rare gems will cost a few times more than the T1!! I will be curious too to hear these gems prowess!!



walfredo said:


> RAFA:  Let us know how the MUSE compares with the Aune T1 as a DAC.  I've being curious about it, but I am a bit skeptical it be a better DAC than the T1.




Actually this MUSE cannot be correctly compared to T1 as DAC.. This MUSE is a digital to analog converter much like the Fiio D3 does.. They don't accept USB input.. They are in between signal chains after a USB receiver and before an amplifier..


----------



## Rboin

That price should be for the 6922 tube. you should ask for it. or you can buy from me haha.


----------



## debuchan

I just bought orange label...


----------



## toschek

debuchan said:


> I just bought orange label...




Congrats my friend, enjoy it.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Congrats my friend, enjoy it.


 
   
  Dude! HD800s?!?!?!? You are starting to really confuse me my friend


----------



## RAFA

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> RAFA:  Let us know how the MUSE compares with the Aune T1 as a DAC.  I've being curious about it, but I am a bit skeptical it be a better DAC than the T1.


 
   
  I will definitely do. The thing is, that I thought that the T1 line-in also goes through the tube, but it does not. The internal T1 DAC ([size=x-small]PCM1793)[/size] is technically better than the one (4) in the MUSE, but from the reviews I have read so far, the MUSE is capable of more than the price hints. Last year I accquired a Philips CD140 CDP. Eventhough it was only 15€, it just sounds great. The CD140 has one TDA1543 inside. If things go well, the MUSE will be here on Friday.
   
   
  Quote: 





icecap said:


> Hah.. RAFA, Cca tube is top and top of the crop.. Getting your hand on one of these rare gems will cost a few times more than the T1!! I will be curious too to hear these gems prowess!!
> Actually this MUSE cannot be correctly compared to T1 as DAC.. This MUSE is a digital to analog converter much like the Fiio D3 does.. They don't accept USB input.. They are in between signal chains after a USB receiver and before an amplifier..


 
   
  I have seen prices up to 1000$ for a pair. Crazy, isn't it? Since I started hunting down tubes, I often asked myself, how much theese things costed back in their time.
   
  You are right and as you have probably read in the upper posts, it was actually a mistake... What I can compare is: "T1 tube-buffer section + its DAC the PCM1793" versus "MUSE DAC through line-in of the T1". Both versions, however share the same T1 headphone output stage. It is not how I wanted it... still I cannot wait till I get it


----------



## BluesDaddy

Need some help from you tube experts. I got a couple of the tubes I've ordered in the mail today (ironically, two of the most recent ones - still don't have the Voskhod coming from Russia).  One of them was listed as an NOS Amperex Gold pin, made in the USA.  It did not come in the original box, but has fairly good looking silk screening - thing is it is orange lettering with the globe on the back, but it also reads (in the same screening) "made in the USA". The date code is VR5 *6d.  Now, from what I can find tell from googling, that means it was manufactured in April 1966 by Amperex in NY.  I had not heard of an "Orange Globe" made in the USA, so anyone who has additional info on this tube it would be appreciated.
   
  Also got an RCA "made in Holland" tube along with the cigar box I ordered. Just need to get some freezer tape.  Still waiting on 5 more tubes - the two Voskhod, two more Amperex and the Mullard.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Need some help from you tube experts. I got a couple of the tubes I've ordered in the mail today (ironically, two of the most recent ones - still don't have the Voskhod coming from Russia).  One of them was listed as an NOS Amperex Gold pin, made in the USA.  It did not come in the original box, but has fairly good looking silk screening - thing is it is orange lettering with the globe on the back, but it also reads (in the same screening) "made in the USA". The date code is VR5 *6d.  Now, from what I can find tell from googling, that means it was manufactured in April 1966 by Amperex in NY.  I had not heard of an "Orange Globe" made in the USA, so anyone who has additional info on this tube it would be appreciated.
> 
> Also got an RCA "made in Holland" tube along with the cigar box I ordered. Just need to get some freezer tape.  Still waiting on 5 more tubes - the two Voskhod, two more Amperex and the Mullard.


 
   
  Have you read the Joe's Tube Lore? It can be found here http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8 and as far as I know it's kind of a reference place for 6DJ8, 6922 and 7308 tubes. Old post but many people have said the impressions to be quite spot on. This is what Joe has to say about the orange logo amperexes:
   
_Amperex 6922, JAN Orange label, US (shield, gold pins) A little sharp in the upper mids / lower treble. Good upper bass and highs. Vocals lack balance & body A bit disappointing. This tube sorta sucks..._
   
_Amperex 6DJ8, Orange globe logo, Holland (shield, steel pins,) Much better than the above tube No comparison in fact. Warm, vibrant, lively, grainless, transparent Amperex sound. Killer tube. Almost as good as my reference Amperex 6922s (coming up soon). I slightly prefer this tube to the best of the Siemens 6DJ8s, 6922s & 7308s._
   
_Amperex 7308, Orange globe logo, US (shield, gold pins) More focused and palpable than the Bugle Boy & A frame 6DJ8s. A bit like the Globe Logo Holland 6DJ8 overall. I still prefer that tube to this one but this is still a pretty good tube..._
   
  Thats all I know. My orange globe is 6DJ8 dimple disc A-frame which makes it a 70's Holland production. Could it be that your US Amperex is actually a 6922 or 7308 tube? Please post some photos after you get your cigar box organized 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Oh and by the way my new telefunken (and siemens) tubes are really good and they are definitely in par with my orange globe. It actually starts to be quite difficult to find any noticeable differences between these better tubes. Orange globe is slightly warmer and packs slightly more bunch than those other two, but I really like Teles since they have very good transparent soundstage. The diminished returns are hitting hard and I have decided that if the last three tubes that I've ordered (Mullard, Brimar and Bugle Boy) don't provide any significant upgrade or unique sound I'll stop my tube hoarding here. I'm very happy with orange globe + telefunken combo at the moment and have no plans to go for the highly expensive 7308 and/or Cca tubes. Those three Teles of mine should last for a long time that's for sure. My next purchase will most likely be different pads for my K702s. This gives me more flexibility to play with tubes and sound overall.


----------



## RAFA

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Have you read the Joe's Tube Lore? It can be found here http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8 and as far as I know it's kind of a reference place for 6DJ8, 6922 and 7308 tubes. Old post but many people have said the impressions to be quite spot on. This is what Joe has to say about the orange logo amperexes:


 
   
  Thanks for this. I have some Siemens on the way. Hopefully they are not fake...


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





rafa said:


> Thanks for this. I have some Siemens on the way. Hopefully they are not fake...


 
   
  I have Siemens 7DJ8 and it's a very nice tube.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Have you read the Joe's Tube Lore? It can be found here http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8 and as far as I know it's kind of a reference place for 6DJ8, 6922 and 7308 tubes. Old post but many people have said the impressions to be quite spot on. This is what Joe has to say about the orange logo amperexes:
> 
> _Amperex 6922, JAN Orange label, US (shield, gold pins) A little sharp in the upper mids / lower treble. Good upper bass and highs. Vocals lack balance & body A bit disappointing. This tube sorta sucks..._
> 
> ...


 
  I did not come across that in my searching, thanks for sharing. Mine has "Amperex 62J8" screened on it with the Orange globe logo, NOT a shield and it has gold pins. I'll attach the best pic I took (anyone have suggestions on the best background for shooting a tube?). It is definitely the globe logo on the left side of the tube, though I can't get a decent pic of it.  Listening to it, it doesn't strike me as the top one, but I need to do more comparison. I was really liking it listening last night
  .


----------



## BluesDaddy

Unfortunately, the RCA Amperex I received yesterday only plays in the left channel. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Fortunately, the seller states he "guarantees" the tubes he sells to work, so I'm hoping to get a refund. Didn't cost very much, but it is disappointing.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Unfortunately, the RCA Amperex I received yesterday only plays in the left channel.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yeah the same happened with my Mullard even though it measured very good. The seller was kind enough to let me to choose anything from her store to replace the tube. Took another Mullard because I liked what I heard from the left channel. I also took Bugle Boy for $15 since she promised free shipping.


----------



## CoiL

*** i n g russian airpost! Seems that my Lorenz PCC189`s are lost -.- grrr....
   
  E: Got some hope still, eBay seller tracked it and it should have just arrived into my hometown post office. Can`t wait for tomorrow... want to hear new tubes already ;P


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> *** i n g russian airpost! Seems that my Lorenz PCC189`s are lost -.- grrr....
> 
> E: Got some hope still, eBay seller tracked it and it should have just arrived into my hometown post office. Can`t wait for tomorrow... want to hear new tubes already ;P


 
  Yeah, from what I can tell from my limited experience, the Russian postal service is the worst of any "first world" country. China does a MUCH better job.  I ordered a couple of Voskhod tubes from the Tube-Store, which I didn't realize was Russian (my bad, there) on Feb. 23.  They didn't put it in the post until Feb. 27. Fortunately they DO have tracking, and I can see it doesn't leave that PO's "sorting center" until March 3. Now, on March 11 it arrived at the "international office of exchange" in Moscow. I won't ever order anything from Russia again.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Yeah the same happened with my Mullard even though it measured very good. The seller was kind enough to let me to choose anything from her store to replace the tube. Took another Mullard because I liked what I heard from the left channel. I also took Bugle Boy for $15 since she promised free shipping.


 
  The seller of the Amperex immediately refunded my money - I'm very impressed. Didn't even want the tube back. Thought I would try it one more time and this time NO channels worked - definitely a tube that was on its last legs.


----------



## MrEleventy

Aaaargh. usps didn't drop off my t1 at my door., instead, they left It at the apt office, which is closed. tempted to show up late for work tomorrow to get them. hehe


----------



## BluesDaddy

With my refund from the bad tube I bought I had to buy another tube, no?  So, since I liked the sound of the Philips ECC189 I got so much, I thought I'd try this RCA -

   
  - less than $10 including shipping. Maybe the same tube as the Philips, but worth having a spare!


----------



## CoiL

*E*CC189 ? Damn, I`ve skipped this one. It should be with same specs as PCC189?


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> *E*CC189 ? Damn, I`ve skipped this one. It should be with same specs as PCC189?


 
   
  I think it should work. I'm going to try it and see. Like I said, under $10 so it's no great loss if it doesn't. I'll report back on it!


----------



## InCreD1Ble

Guys, I got this precious gem yesterday, and I have to say it kicks ***! I have a question though. Shall I use my Asus Xonar Essence STX's DAC or the one in AUNE T1 is better?


----------



## CoiL

If you use Aune T1 as DAC then there is tube buffer in chain and you can`t really compare those two. Just listen and use the ona you like better. If you are going to use Xonar + T1 then you can use T1 as pure HP amp only sine RCA line in @ T1 doesn`t involve tube in audio chain. So, if you want full benefit from Aune T1 - drop the xonar out.
   
  Btw, I finally got my Lorenz PCC189! Woot! They look so new and unused. Will burn them in and keep you all updated.


----------



## InCreD1Ble

I'm sorry but could you please explain what a tube buffer does?


----------



## MrEleventy

You have to use the dac in the T1 if you want to take advantage of the tube.


----------



## InCreD1Ble

Thank you for your both replies, I will use the T1's DAC.


----------



## BigCabDaddy

Hey I got a question as a prospective Aune owner: I know I like vintage tube gear sound and I'm willing to take a chance that the Aune might give me something a little more along those lines. But I'm getting a little nervous about this new tube of the moment addiction some of you seem to have...


----------



## Salvatore

I really can't believe this. The replacement Mullard for the defective Mullard got distorted after only 10 minutes of use. Bugle Boy seems to be working fine though. Bugle is actually pretty damn nice tube. Sounds pretty similar to my Orange Globe.
   
  Quote: 





bigcabdaddy said:


> But I'm getting a little nervous about this new tube of the moment addiction some of you seem to have...


 
   
  Care to elaborate? Maybe it's just me but I don't really understand what you're saying here.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





bigcabdaddy said:


> Hey I got a question as a prospective Aune owner: I know I like vintage tube gear sound and I'm willing to take a chance that the Aune might give me something a little more along those lines. But I'm getting a little nervous about this new tube of the moment addiction some of you seem to have...


 
  What is it that makes you nervous?  True, some of us haven't played with tubes before (or it has been so long as to be irrelevant), but it's not like we're going to buy them all up. If it's that you don't trust the impressions posted here, check out the thread over on the Rock Grotto. Basically what I've read here is jibes pretty well with what I've read from established tube sites or forums. It's a great little device and swapping out tubes just adds a little more fun to it.


----------



## BigCabDaddy

salvatore said:


> I really can't believe this. The replacement Mullard for the defective Mullard got distorted after only 10 minutes of use. Bugle Boy seems to be working fine though. Bugle is actually pretty damn nice tube. Sounds pretty similar to my Orange Globe.
> 
> 
> Care to elaborate? Maybe it's just me but I don't really understand what you're saying here.




I mean the addiction of buying and experimenting with new tubes constantly. /lol Not sure I want to or even can sign up for dropping another forty bucks on a tube every few days. I swear some of you have been through a half dozen tubes in the few days I've been following!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> It's a great little device and swapping out tubes just adds a little more fun to it.


 
   
  Exactly. For me the rolling is more about collecting vintage tubes and having fun than actually finding that perfect sound. T1 can only go so far and if you need to take this to the next level there are always better and more expensive amps. I personally would suggest to go for better amp than to buy those über expensive tubes. From my experience you can improve the sound about 10-15% at max (from the stock tube). The major differences are between the bad and good tubes, but it seems that most of the tubes are pretty good and provide good sound. When buying T1 you should keep in mind that this is a $160 dac/amp that allows you to have fun with tube rolling. I know for sure that T1 isn't my final amp and my next purchase is most likely going to be a solid state. Right now I'm just enjoying my T1 to the max.
   
  E: Tube collecting is addictive, I admit that, but I've also noticed that it's pointless to hoard too many tubes. I guess most of us just are collectors by nature and want to obtain some kind of satisfactory state with those tubes. I, for example, want to collect those 10 tubes to fill my cigar box. I really don't need more than my orange globe to be satisfied sound wise. This being said I still want to complete my 10 tube cigar box collection. I'm sure that other collectors have other goals they are reaching for.


----------



## Grevlin

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Exactly. For me the rolling is more about collecting vintage tubes and having fun than actually finding that perfect sound. T1 can only go so far and if you need to take this to the next level there are always better and more expensive amps. I personally would suggest to go for better amp than to buy those über expensive tubes. From my experience you can improve the sound about 10-15% at max (from the stock tube). The major differences are between the bad and good tubes, but it seems that most of the tubes are pretty good and provide good sound. When buying T1 you should keep in mind that this is a $160 dac/amp that allows you to have fun with tube rolling. I know for sure that T1 isn't my final amp and my next purchase is most likely going to be a solid state. Right now I'm just enjoying my T1 to the max.


 

 My thoughts exactly.
   
  I just wish there was a T1-style simple integrated amp. Just a few tubes, simple, good power...I'd like to upgrade my main amp.


----------



## Salvatore

I really like opening my cigar box filled with tubes even though I know that most of them are sonically very close to each other 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 If that makes me happy then it's money well spend.


----------



## BigCabDaddy

salvatore said:


> Exactly. For me the rolling is more about collecting vintage tubes and having fun than actually finding that perfect sound. T1 can only go so far and if you need to take this to the next level there are always better and more expensive amps. I personally would suggest to go for better amp than to buy those über expensive tubes. From my experience you can improve the sound about 10-15% at max (from the stock tube). The major differences are between the bad and good tubes, but it seems that most of the tubes are pretty good and provide good sound. When buying T1 you should keep in mind that this is a $160 dac/amp that allows you to have fun with tube rolling. I know for sure that T1 isn't my final amp and my next purchase is most likely going to be a solid state. Right now I'm just enjoying my T1 to the max.
> 
> E: Tube collecting is addictive, I admit that, but I've also noticed that it's pointless to hoard too many tubes. I guess most of us just are collectors by nature and want to obtain some kind of satisfactory state with those tubes. I, for example, want to collect those 10 tubes to fill my cigar box. I really don't need more than my orange globe to be satisfied sound wise. This being said I still want to complete my 10 tube cigar box collection. I'm sure that other collectors have other goals they are reaching for.




Well put. Mostly I was giving you guys a hard time! This hobby is far from rational. I know very few of my purchases within it are justifiable. For me though, there is a very real concern in that I need to be careful not to let my OCD get out of control. I'm speaking only to myself in this however. Everyone should do what makes them happy and keeps them sane so long as it is within their means. I suspect my means may be more modest than some of you.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





bigcabdaddy said:


> This hobby is far from rational.


 
   
  Haha this exactly! You can buy the best possible tube and after a while you are used to the sound and start thinking how would some other tubes sound. You get the second tube, find some sonic differences and go for the third one... this is how the ball starts rolling and that's why I only suggest people to get those "cheap" tubes if they are the collector type. If you buy very expensive tubes buy them in matched pairs or quadruples so you can later upgrade to better tube amps if you so desire (just like toschek did). For me it's just insane to buy $100 tubes only for T1.


----------



## Salvatore

I want to share with you all a small review of my tubes. Before going into the actual review I'd like to define how I understand some of the terms I've been using here:
   
  Sound stage - How wide and deep the sound is.
  Imaging – The shape of the sound stage and how vocals and instruments fit in there (positioning).
  Transparency – How each instrument is separated and how much air is between the instruments.
   
  Audio chain: Foobar (wasapi event output) -> FLAC 700kbps or above / mp3 320kbps -> Aune T1 -> AKG K702 65th Anniversary Edition.
   
  Please note that these writings represent my own subjective impressions. Personal preferences, headphone synergy, burn in time and even the differences in tube gain might bias the results. In addition, this post is just me having a laugh with my tubes so take everything I write with a grain of salt. Enjoy or hate, agree or disagree, don't really care since I do this for fun 
   
*Electro Harmonix 6922:* This thing goes very wide, but the problem is that it doesn't go as deep. This kind of bumerang shaped image doesn't feel balanced to me. Hopefully this issues eases as I get more burn in. Great clarity. Best with electronic, ambient and instrumental atmospheric music. With normal "organic" music there are more musical and engaging tubes. Well, depends on the tastes of course.
   
  Sound stage: ******½*
  Imaging: *****½*
  Transparency:* *******½*
  Total: 9*½* / 15
   
*Voshkod 6N23P Rocket Logo:* Engaging and warm, but lacks resolution. Bass is kind of boomy. Not the widest soundstage, but very nice frontal imaging. Suits nicely with minimalistic gritty blues and blues rock (try Seasick Steve for example). Pair with bright bass shy cans and you have a good combo. One of the cheapest tubes out there, which makes this a good value for money frontal sounding tube.
   
  Sound stage: *******
  Imaging: ******½*
  Transparency: *****
  Total: 9*½* / 15
   
*Genalex Gold Lion 6922:* Another new production tube from Russia. Marginally better than those two above and sonically closer to Rocket than to EH. Kind of a more refined Rocket with less boomy bass. Goes deeper and wider than the Rocket. Nice tube but definitely overpriced. I feel like this should be shipped with T1 as the stock tube because it's better new production tube than the EH.
   
  Sound stage: ******½*
  Imaging: ******½*
  Transparency: ******½*
  Total: 10*½* / 15
   
*Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globe Dimple Disc A-frame:* Very nice big sound stage with spherical imaging and mellow warm tone. Lots of air between instruments and the bass is not too bad. Detailed, highly musical and easily one of the most enjoyable tubes I have. Lacks some sparkle though.
   
  Sound stage: *******½*
  Imaging: *******½*
  Transparency: ********
  Total: 13 / 15

*Telefunken 7DJ8:* Transparent and almost holographic at times. Again very nice spherical sound stage and imaging. The music really surrounds you with this one. Not as warm and boomy as orange globe, which helps with instrumental separation. Bass is tight. Vocals are not as forward as with some of my tubes and the sound stage is slightly narrower as compared to orange globe. This tube feels natural, lively and snappy. A joy to listen. Good companion to orange globe. Especially if you wish to go for tighter neutral sound.
  
  Sound stage: ******
  Imaging: ******
  Transparency: *******½*
 Total: 12*½* / 15
   
*Amperex 7308 White Label PQ:* Combines the best qualities of both orange globe and telefunken. Feels natural and has proper punch when needed. The bass is simply perfect and the overall sound manages to be very transparent, airy and highly detailed without being cold. Lots of layers which help you discover new interesting things from your favorite tracks. This tube just seems to have it all. Listen some quality jazz recordings and you can easily hear all the brushes and strokes of individual instruments.
   
  Sound stage: *******½*
  Imaging: *******½*
  Transparency: *********½*
  Total: 13*½* / 15

*Siemens 7DJ8:* Similar to Tele, but sound stage is pulled more on the front and sides. Vocals are forward. This creates slightly oval shaped image. With acoustic and a cappella material this tube is the vocal king. Very nice tube overall.
   
  Sound stage: ******½*
  Imaging: ******½*
  Transparency: ******
  Total: 11 / 15
   
*Valvo 7DJ8:* Lacks resolution as compared to Siemens and Tele. Sound stage is also narrower and oval shaped (front-back direction). Focus is slightly off. Ok but not my favorites. Update: I judged this one too early. After proper burn in the soundstage has evened out and the overall sound is noticeably better. Deep bass with balanced overall feel. Seems like you lose some clarity in the lower mids due to the bass.

 Sound stage: ******½*
  Imaging: ******½*
  Transparency: *****
 Total: 10 / 15
   
*Amperex 6DJ8 "Bugle Boy" Small O Getter:* This is practically orange globe's (baby) brother. They sound very similar and both has this nice lush sound with mellow warm tone. Orange Globe has more air between instruments and have better balance. All in all a nice tube and makes me want to try the large O getter Bugle Boy if the sound is any different. Update: It seems that this tube is beyond it's prime. The lights inside the tube are faint and the overall tone doesn't feel as vibrant as it used to be.
   
  Sound stage: ******
  Imaging: ******
  Transparency: ******½*
  Total: 11*½* / 15
   
*Ultron 7ES8 White Label:* Good beefy bass combined with soft upper mids and highs make this tube a good match for bright cans. Whenever my headphones get fatiguing I change to Ultron and the smooth buttery sound evens the piercing peaks. The softness can and do, however, result in a loss of clarity and layers.
   
  Sound stage: ******
  Imaging: ******
  Transparency: *****
  Total: 11 / 15


----------



## InCreD1Ble

Paired this unit with my Hifiman's HE-400 with velour pads, all I can say it's the most pleasant combo I have ever listened to. The sound is very warm and a bit dark, rich detail and great soundstage, clear highs, prominent mids, extremely deep and extensive lows. Can't wait to start tube rolling!


----------



## debuchan

Just got my orange label tubes
   
  Yes, I said *tubes*
   
  I originally thought I would be getting one, but I got one pair!
   
  Now, the fun begins!


----------



## toschek

I think you're better buying pairs as the next steps up like Schiit Lyr or DECware CSP2+ will also use 6922 type tubes, that's just my opinion though. Anyway, if you like a tube then buy two because they aren't making more.


----------



## BigCabDaddy

If you buy a matched pair and then use one or even rotate them without calibration, they will no longer be matched.


----------



## icecap

Actually pre amp tubes do not need to be matched.. Matching of tubes is more applicable to power tubes.. So is fine to buy single pre amp tube or a couple and used singularly at any one time.. Tolerance of relatively mismatched pre amp tubes used in pairs in amps are quite high..


----------



## toschek

Yeah, from my experience using buffer/driver tubes slightly mismatched makes very little difference. Power tubes on the other hand, entirely different story. I'm not talking about a huge divergence though, but close enough you will not be able to tell.


----------



## worx

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> 110v is USA version, 220v is Europe version.


 
   
   
  I live in the United States and does anyone know if there is a difference between the power supply/adapter wall plugin between the 220v and 110v version? Can I use the 220v European version in the US, or do I have to buy a separate power adapter for it?


----------



## InCreD1Ble

I'm planning to buy 6DJ8 ECC88 tube. Now I'm confused as there are many different types of these: Orange Globes, Mullard Telefunken, Bugle Boy, Grate Plates etc... Which one of them is considered to be the best quality? This is going to be my first tube upgrade, I mainly listen to EDM and vocal trance. Suggestions?


----------



## CoiL

For electronic music - stick with the 6922EH or buy cheap Tungsram PCC88.


----------



## djkert

I have a T1 coming on the way, and am using Koss DJ100 for my phones.  Does anyone know if this is a good match?
   
  Most of the headphones on the front page were out of my budget.  Can anyone recommend a good pair for around $150?


----------



## InCreD1Ble

Quote: 





coil said:


> For electronic music - stick with the 6922EH or buy cheap Tungsram PCC88.


 

 Could you please elaborate why?


----------



## Salvatore

Ok another defective... Brimar CV2492 is playing only from the right channel. From the last 4 tubes 3 has been defective. I think this is it for me. I'm done buying tubes from ebay.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





incred1ble said:


> Could you please elaborate why?


 
  Read my comments about tubes. I have already told why EH and Tungsram PCC88 are good for electronic music. Sorry, don`t like to repeat myself very much. Browse through the thread and find my comments (other ppl opinions too).
   
  Salvatore, yeah, if you have found good ones for yourself and are pleased then it stops making sense. I have 2 defective PCC189`s but they were very cheap. I`m also buying only very cheap ones now, just for the fun of experimenting 
   
  E: I`m littlebit sick atm and can`t compare tubes but it`s good to my new tubes getting time to burn in. Lorenz PCC189`s that I bought are really "untouched" ones, the boxes, tubes and pins are so clean. They seem to be same "league" as the Mullard ECC88 / Philips PCC189 I have. For the money I got those Lorenz`s, great deal and I`m pleased with the sound. 
  Another story is the old style yellow Mullard logo PCC189 with metal vertical plate... I find myself more and more enjoying it with metal/rock/jazz. It`s a great tube for those who like more intimate, "foward sounding" and smaller soundstage. Recommend it if you can find it.


----------



## HolyCheese

Are you sure the aune might not be defective?


----------



## Salvatore

Most of my tubes are working just fine. I guess I could roll all tubes once more just to be sure.


----------



## InCreD1Ble

Sorry about my lazyness  I just searched this thread for PCC88 references and I think I'll give it a try. Thanks!
  Quote: 





coil said:


> Read my comments about tubes. I have already told why EH and Tungsram PCC88 are good for electronic music. Sorry, don`t like to repeat myself very much. Browse through the thread and find my comments (other ppl opinions too).
> 
> Salvatore, yeah, if you have found good ones for yourself and are pleased then it stops making sense. I have 2 defective PCC189`s but they were very cheap. I`m also buying only very cheap ones now, just for the fun of experimenting
> 
> ...


----------



## Salvatore

Luckily some of these sellers are very friendly. This one let me keep the defective tube and promised immediate refund. The other one wasn't as nice as she started blaming my system to eat tubes  By the way I'm listening Bugle Boy at the moment and this is indeed a very nice tube. I would recommend to add this to every collection since you can get it for $15 or so. Definitely worth the money.


----------



## Rboin

Hi Guys, Thanks your good inputs, I've got my NEC 6R HH8 tube and also amperex orange globe dimpled disc HOlland 6dj8 aside of the electro harmonix 6922. Yes I must agree with many of you here especially salvatore. I think i got very much the same conclusion of the tubes rolling.
   
  For the amperex orange globe, the music becomes engaging and I suppose it because the tube is makes the bass impact better and tighter. It feels like my laid back AKG k240 to move its throat and produce the tump of the sennheiser PX100. Which i really like. Staging wise, yes it becomes less airy than electro harmonix (EH) 6922. But yes the vocals and instruments separation is the best out of the other two tubes that I have. I am very satisfied with this one. Last night i toppled over it and it popped out of the T1, ew, but put it back in and it still work.
   
  For the NEC 6R, it is a japanese, after several hours burn in, the bass becomes tighter but impact is not prevalent. staging becomes smaller than EH 6922. I would say the mids and treble are on par with Amperex but less clarity. They felt jumbled.
   
  For EH 6922, after having these three cheap tubes, I can understand what this forum has been talking about "airy". Yes it does. Tubes rolling teach me the important sonic difference, i pay for my ears to differentiate sound. not a bad investment


----------



## penmarker

Finally got my phono stage today - TCC TC-750, a great little performer at just over $45 including the premium adapter. I hook the turntable setup with the Aune T1. Can't find any faults at all, but since it doesn't go through the tube buffer the sound is a little different from vinyl rips in my CD. 

 HOWEVER
  Immensely grateful to Aune for adding a line in and line out in this. Since this is an amp+DAC combo, my desk is neat and uncluttered.
   
  Also I haven't started tube rolling yet. Maybe when I get a little richer


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> Finally got my phono stage today - TCC TC-750, a great little performer at just over $45 including the premium adapter. I hook the turntable setup with the Aune T1. Can't find any faults at all, but since it doesn't go through the tube buffer the sound is a little different from vinyl rips in my CD.
> 
> HOWEVER
> Immensely grateful to Aune for adding a line in and line out in this. Since this is an amp+DAC combo, my desk is neat and uncluttered.
> ...


 
  I have the TCC TC-750LC, the one with the level control. It is a great little phono amp for the money. Got a line on a great deal for what appears to be a mint condition Pioneer PL-570 and want to eventually get the Yaqin MS-22B as a phono stage for it.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Yeah, from what I can tell from my limited experience, the Russian postal service is the worst of any "first world" country. China does a MUCH better job.  I ordered a couple of Voskhod tubes from the Tube-Store, which I didn't realize was Russian (my bad, there) on Feb. 23.  They didn't put it in the post until Feb. 27. Fortunately they DO have tracking, and I can see it doesn't leave that PO's "sorting center" until March 3. Now, on March 11 it arrived at the "international office of exchange" in Moscow. I won't ever order anything from Russia again.


 
  Just checked the Russian tracking on my Voskhods. Took four days (today) to make it to customs, but at least it shows it cleared. Hopefully now they will actually be leaving the country bound for the USA. Three weeks from order date just to clear Russian customs. Like I said, never again from Russia.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> I have the TCC TC-750LC, the one with the level control. It is a great little phono amp for the money. Got a line on a great deal for what appears to be a mint condition Pioneer PL-570 and want to eventually get the Yaqin MS-22B as a phono stage for it.


 
  Found this nice review when googling your Yaqin phono stage
  http://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/i-review-the-175-tubed-yaqin-ms-22b-phono-preamplifier.267043/
  Sounds like a very nice budget phono stage. Too bad it's hard for me to buy anything above 1 lb without getting slapped with a very high shipping cost LOL.
   
  BTW how is the wiring in your home? We don't have enough wall sockets, have to use extension splitters. I'm sharing the socket with a modem, router, phone, monitor, pc, etc. Hums like a hummingbird.


----------



## buestad

Will a russian 6N1P-EV tube work in the Aune T1? An if, Will it be any good?


----------



## BluesDaddy

This came in the mail today. Plugged it in and it works just fine. Sounds an awful lot like the Phillips PCC189 when it was new, so undoubtedly needs some breaking in as the Phillips did (which now sounds very nice, indeed). And it only cost me $7.24 including the postage. Can't beat that price.
  Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> With my refund from the bad tube I bought I had to buy another tube, no?  So, since I liked the sound of the Philips ECC189 I got so much, I thought I'd try this RCA -
> 
> 
> - less than $10 including shipping. Maybe the same tube as the Philips, but worth having a spare!


 
   
  These also came:
   

  Amperex Orange globe with a dimpled getter.
   
  and...

  Amperex "A" frame with dimpled getter.
   
  Both of these are in much better shape than I thought they would be. Picked them up off Ebay for $17 total.  I swapped out the Orange Globe for the RCA 6ES8 and it truly was like night and day - the difference made me go "wow". The bass is what first hits you - and then the palpability (if that is a word_ - everything is just so "real", like you could reach out and touch it. Truly wonderful. Don't even want to swap it out to hear the Amperex A frame. The Bugle Boy was the best I'd heard, but this is a whole other level. Very sweet.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





> Both of these are in much better shape than I thought they would be. Picked them up off Ebay for $17 total.  I swapped out the Orange Globe for the RCA 6ES8 and it truly was like night and day - the difference made me go "wow". The bass is what first hits you - and then the palpability (if that is a word_ - everything is just so "real", like you could reach out and touch it. Truly wonderful. Don't even want to swap it out to hear the Amperex A frame. The Bugle Boy was the best I'd heard, but this is a whole other level. Very sweet.


 
  BTW, when rolling tubes, I generally listen to the same album for my initial impressions - Bill Evans Trio "Sunday at the Village Vanguard" (the original version not the Complete, though that sounds great as well). All acoustic instruments with an ambiance to the recording that is amazing. Voices in the background, plates and glasses tinkling; at times you can hear Scott La Faro's fingers sliding on the strings of the bass. The Orange Globe brings everything "forward".  In the words of that immortal poet, Johnny Kid: "Quivers down my backbone, I got the shakes down my knee bone, yeah the tremors in my thigh bone, Shakin' all over!"


----------



## HolyCheese

Today I announce the end of my hunt for the Aune T1.
  I feel sorry for the tubes I bought, I guess they will have to keep laying around a little longer before I will get new tube gear.
  The reason: I bought a modded muse dac from a friend of mine. I was actually about to buy the aune t1 but I wanted to make sure the high output impedance wasn't a problem for my x1. Seems like it doesnt  but anyway, I was convinced to buy this muse dac, It's a HUGE improvement over my e10. I also listened to a very sweet looking tube amp. Damn that thing was a beauty. And the sound. Oh my sweet lord, that's perfection! I'm probably going to use this dac with a nice very, very good tube amp in the future.
   
  Does anyone know what an FSG tube is? google turn out with no results.


----------



## walfredo

Yeah, I got the Amperex Orange globe with a dimpled getter too and it is just awesome.  My Amperex with O ring is a bit sweeter, but my particular exemplar is a bit used and sometimes it sounds stressed.  I quite sure this is just my exemplar though.  Both are awesome.


----------



## walfredo

Which muse dac did you get, HollyCheese?


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> BTW, when rolling tubes, I generally listen to the same album for my initial impressions - Bill Evans Trio "Sunday at the Village Vanguard" (the original version not the Complete, though that sounds great as well). All acoustic instruments with an ambiance to the recording that is amazing. Voices in the background, plates and glasses tinkling; at times you can hear Scott La Faro's fingers sliding on the strings of the bass. The Orange Globe brings everything "forward".  In the words of that immortal poet, Johnny Kid: "Quivers down my backbone, I got the shakes down my knee bone, yeah the tremors in my thigh bone, Shakin' all over!"


 
   
  Yeah, that's in my test suite too.  All of You, take 2 -- the interplay with Motian's brush work and Le Faro's figured bass, those little pops up front.  That's a good record.


----------



## Salvatore

Ok new update from the defective tube mess I've been having. Now also the other seller says that she believes me and don't need me to send the tubes back to her. We are now negotiating about the refund and seems like we both just wan't to conclude this thing. I'm actually again very happy and have gained trust for the ebay business. Something urges me to complete my cigar box with 2 more tubes.


----------



## toschek

salvatore said:


> Ok new update from the defective tube mess I've been having. Now also the other seller says that she believes me and don't need me to send the tubes back to her. We are now negotiating about the refund and seems like we both just wan't to conclude this thing. I'm actually again very happy and have gained trust for the ebay business. Something urges me to complete my cigar box with 2 more tubes.




Those two last spots you should label Amperex JAN-CEP 6922 and Siemens & Halske CCa


----------



## HolyCheese

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> Which muse dac did you get, HollyCheese?


 
  A modded NOS Mini TDA1543 x4 DAC which has been modded to sound much, much better. 
 The only downside is that i'm driving it with a fiio e5 now. Still when comparing e10 + cool tube amp (over 2k) or muse dac + e5 and the latter made a bigger difference in sound quality!


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> These also came:
> 
> 
> Amperex Orange globe with a dimpled getter.


 
  Finally! Someone with Amperex single legged dimple disc GAC coded! What`s your comments on this tube? It`s the best tube I have. Nice to hear that 6ES8/ECC189 also works with Aune T1.
  Got to hunt some of these down for cheap price. 
   
  Quote:
   


> I swapped out the Orange Globe for the RCA 6ES8 and it truly was like night and day - the difference made me go "wow". The bass is what first hits you - and then the palpability (if that is a word_ - everything is just so "real", like you could reach out and touch it. Truly wonderful.


 
  Sorry, I might have gotten it wrong, are you saying that RCA 6ES8 is better than GAC coded amperex? For me the GAC amperex IS already like "wow, so real!". If RCA is better then I`m like What? atm... must have tube this RCA?

   
   
   
  Btw, I got my Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 and I think it might be better than Mullard ECC88 & Philips PCC189 & Lorenz PCC189. Not sure though because I haven`t done analytical listening yet but it sounds really good. Bass and drums are very very tight with great punch/kick in them. Soundstage and instrument separation are also very good. I`ve been burning it for 2 days and mid section seems to got better. Will update soon.
   
  There`s only 1 miniwatt/dario pcc189 left @ eBay atm: http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/330861699249?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_868wt_906
  Great alternative to Mullard ECC88 or Philips PCC189.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Sorry, I might have gotten it wrong, are you saying that RCA 6ES8 is better than GAC coded amperex? For me the GAC amperex IS already like "wow, so real!". If RCA is better then I`m like What? atm... must have tube this RCA?


 
  Other way around. I had the RCA in there and swapped it out for the Orange Globe - it was amazing!  After ten minutes or so I rolled in the Amperex A frame. It was nice, but not like the Orange Globe. The A frame reminded me of my Buggle Boy - a great tube, but just not in the same class as the Orange Globe.


----------



## CoiL

Good to hear, now I don`t have to search for RCA`s  But yeah, nice to hear that someone can confirm finally my "hype" about that GAC coded amperex


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Those two last spots you should label Amperex JAN-CEP 6922 and Siemens & Halske CCa


 
   
  I'm sure they are great tubes, but quite expensive. Thanks for the suggestion though. I'll keep my eye on them during my ebay strolls. I also have one British ebay seller who will contact me if he can find more of those CV2492 Brimars.
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> Btw, I got my Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 and I think it might be better than Mullard ECC88 & Philips PCC189 & Lorenz PCC189. Not sure though because I haven`t done analytical listening yet but it sounds really good. Bass and drums are very very tight with great punch/kick in them. Soundstage and instrument separation are also very good. I`ve been burning it for 2 days and mid section seems to got better. Will update soon.
> 
> There`s only 1 miniwatt/dario pcc189 left @ eBay atm: http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/330861699249?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_868wt_906
> Great alternative to Mullard ECC88 or Philips PCC189.


 
   
  How much was the shipping? I might pick that up to replace the defective shield logo.
   
  Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> The A frame reminded me of my Buggle Boy - a great tube, but just not in the same class as the Orange Globe.


 
   
  Welcome to the club. Orange globe is a nice tube indeed. Lately I've been also enjoying Siemens 7DJ8. So many great tubes out there.


----------



## CoiL

Salvatore, I bought my miniwatt/dario pcc189 from different seller (france) but it should not be much for germany, depends on what seller chooses for posting.
   
  Now, I have some hard comparing to do - Philips PCC189 (Holland) vs. Lorenz PCC189 (Holland) vs. Mullard ECC88 vs. Miniwatt/Dario PCC189.
  Damn, it`s going to be ear-"pain".


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Btw, I got my Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 and I think it might be better than Mullard ECC88 & Philips PCC189 & Lorenz PCC189. Not sure though because I haven`t done analytical listening yet but it sounds really good. Bass and drums are very very tight with great punch/kick in them. Soundstage and instrument separation are also very good. I`ve been burning it for 2 days and mid section seems to got better. Will update soon.
> 
> There`s only 1 miniwatt/dario pcc189 left @ eBay atm: http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/330861699249?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_868wt_906
> Great alternative to Mullard ECC88 or Philips PCC189.


 
   
  What did the shipping wind up costing you? Quite honestly I've shied away from sellers outside the US due to tubes taking 2 weeks from Italy and going on 4 weeks from Russia. Still haven't gotten my Mullard from the UK either, going on two weeks now.  When they all get here, I'll have ten tubes. I think that's probably enough unless I can sell or trade one of the Voskhods. The Mullard has been the most expensive of the tubes I've bought at $31 (including shipping). I think that's pretty much my limit. You can get good deals if you search Ebay every day - but you have to be looking at listings that might not have all the key words.  Can't find a PCC88 for under $30.


----------



## Salvatore

Ok I already contacted the seller. If the postages are reasonable I'll be pulling trigger on this. Thanks for suggesting this.


----------



## CoiL

BluesDaddy, same goes for tubes sold in US... since I´m at EU (Estonia) then I`m trying to avoid US tubes due to high cost & time of postage. But inside EU things go fast. Only long shipping was with Lorenz PCC189 from Bulgaria due to russian airpost. The landpost took very fast from Bulgaria when I bought Tungsram PCC88.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Now, I have some hard comparing to do - Philips PCC189 vs. Lorenz PCC189 vs. Mullard ECC88 vs. Miniwatt/Dario PCC189.


 
   
  For me it's enough if you say that they are similar. Really liked the Mullard, but can't help but think that the ebay sellers are overpricing them at the moment. Miniwatt seems like a good cheap substitute. If the postages are reasonable I can get this using the Mullard refunds.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Amperex "A" frame with dimpled getter.


 
  Researching this tube a little more, it obviously states "Made in GT Britain" on it. The codes on the back are "GAO", which the "GA" refers to the tube type (6dJ8), not sure about the significance of the "O". the Factory/Date code is "B6H5". The best I can interpret this is that it was manufactured at the Mullard, Blackburn factory in 1956, August, 5th week. Of course, I could be interpreting these all wrong - it is a bit confusing trying to de-cypher this stuff.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> The codes on the back are "GAO", which the "GA" refers to the tube type (6dJ8), not sure about the significance of the "O". the Factory/Date code is "B6H5". The best I can interpret this is that it was manufactured at the Mullard, Blackburn factory in 1956, August, 5th week. Of course, I could be interpreting these all wrong - it is a bit confusing trying to de-cypher this stuff.


 
   
  Hey that's awesome research. I have this one tube that has no logos left whatsoever. It only has codes saying DJ3 and D2L3. I just really don't know how to start getting info on this one. The tube itself has large halo getter and was part of that 6 tube haul so I guess it's a German tube.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> For me it's enough if you say that they are similar. Really liked the Mullard, but can't help but think that the ebay sellers are overpricing them at the moment. Miniwatt seems like a good cheap substitute. If the postages are reasonable I can get this using the Mullard refunds.


 
  I`m comparing them all atm (notes in progress):


> Mullard ecc88 (vs. miniwatt) - better mids, highs are more flat.
> 
> miniwatt pcc189 (vs. mullard) - more open soundstage, highs have more "life",
> mids tinybit laid back.
> ...


 
   

  So far, I think I have found new best allarounder tube - Miniwatt/Dario PCC189, enough air for electronic music but also very good "intimacy" @ metal/rock. 
   
  Mullard ECC88 is still best for metal/rock/jazz amongst them because of better mids section.
   
  Lorenz PCC189 vs. Philips PCC189 is still in progress but atm seems that Philips is better for metal/rock/jazz because more similiar sound to Mullard ECC88. But it`s not final opinion. 
   
  But I have to add that all those tubes are still very similiar and differences come out with serious analytical listening. 
   
  E:
   
  Got to rest my ears littlebit. Hard to choose my opinion on philips pcc189 vs. lorenz pcc189. Put my HP`s away and switched to external speakers, listened littlebit with philips (just for background) and decided to try lorenz with external speakers - lorenz was better.
  Like I said, got to rest ears littlebit. Will update soon.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Mullard ECC88 is still best for metal/rock/jazz amongst them because of better mids section.


 
  What Mullard do you have, i.e. place of manufacture and date? The one I have coming apparently was made in Holland, but don't know date yet. Hopefully it arrives in the mail today.  No telling when the Voskhods will get here.


----------



## CoiL

I`ve already spoken about my Mullard ECC88 earlier. White new style shield logo, ECC88, BVA, Imported (thus probably Holland made), coded GAG delta5D2. It`s best tube after my GAC Amperex (for metal/rock/jazz). It should be same as Mike @ rockgrotto is selling: http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/post/126075/thread
   
  E: Salvatore, I`m really sorry, I decided to buy that another miniwatt/dario pcc189 because of great tight bass/kick & soundstage, this tube can take any genre music imo. I already lost once a good backup to my amperex, decided not to lose this one. But well, you had your chance anyway  
   
  E2: I think this miniwatt/dario pcc189 actually has best punchy tight bass & kick out of my tubes, even my amperex. But everything else, amperex wins for sure.
   
  e3: btw, post from germany was 6€ , not quite cheap but oh well, 14.5€ including post for this tube is bargain actually


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> E: Salvatore, I`m really sorry, I decided to buy that another miniwatt/dario pcc189 because of great tight bass/kick & soundstage, this tube can take any genre music imo. I already lost once a good backup to my amperex, decided not to lose this one. But well, you had your chance anyway


 
   
  No problem mate. After all it was you who suggested it in the first place. Without you I wouldn't even be aware of the whole tube. I'll add it to my watch list.


----------



## CoiL

I`m actually littlebit sad, that somebody else didn`t get it to try. It has freakin tight & punchy bass / percussion. The only little "drawback" is mids section not being same as Amperex orange globe but well, no other tube has it like amperex anyway (yet, imo). It doesn`t lack mids but once you hear orange`s "enhanced" mids then you miss it in every tube, at least I do. Soundstage is something between Amperex and 6922EH. Great tube for every genre. 
   
  Btw, I have these coming in:
   
  Brimar ECC88 (looks like 6N23P structure)

   
  Sylvania 6922 

   
  Ultron PCC189


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> I`m actually littlebit sad, that somebody else didn`t get it to try. It has freakin tight & punchy bass / percussion. The only little "drawback" is mids section not being same as Amperex orange globe but well, no other tube has it like amperex anyway (yet, imo). It doesn`t lack mids but once you hear orange`s "enhanced" mids then you miss it in every tube, at least I do. Soundstage is something between Amperex and 6922EH. Great tube for every genre.
> 
> Btw, I have these coming in:
> 
> ...


 
  Coil you are killing us. Every time you find another great tube, it makes it almost impossible not to try and find one! I've read good things about the Brimars. Don't know anything about the others.


----------



## CoiL

Well, I have one Brimar but this one sucks! Worst tube I have! I only use it for movies, lousy bass + small soundstage make dialogue easy to hear  
Brimar ECC88/6DJ8 (late 70`, round large Halo getter, "Cinemascope" logo), it has copper-like wires (continuing from pins), like this one:

   
   
  Ultron`s might be actually same as Tungsram PCC189 and made in Hungary but I have not found any certain data to confirm that. Hope they are good 
   
   
  E: I think it was last drop into my "tube-cup". On the last second someone grabbed those amperex globes with absurd price: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360612466459?ssPageName=STRK:MEDWX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1435.l2649
   
  grrrrrr -.- , I think I`m out of this tube business, it makes me nervous already. Just want to get backup for my amperex but... no... someone always gets it from front of my nose -.- And all those globes seem to be located @ USA, comoon?!? why? -.-
   
  But if someone is willing to give up his amperex orange globe for Lorenz pcc189 + Miniwatt Dario PCC189 + maybe little money, then I`m going to do it. PM me if there is anyone willing to make this deal.


----------



## CoiL

For my luck - Ultron PCC189 is very good! And I say it only after it has been in my amp for about 1min. Got two of them. Got to burn-in these babies. I think it might be as good as my Mullard ECC88 or even Amperex GAC. Tight bass & kick, great mids section, great soundstage. Better than Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 for sure. But we`ll see what is my opinion after analytical comparing.
   
  E: Going to pick up my Brimar and sylvania now. Will post later first impressions about these.
   
  E: Well, first impressions about Sylvania 6922 & Brimar ECC88 (6n23p like structure) - both seem to have airy and large soundstage. Overall, they seem more towards to 6922EH. Ultron PCC189 beats their ass in every way! But this is only first impression with external speakers.
   
  Got to burn-in those NOS tubes littlebit. Takes some time and will post comparing results in the end of this week.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> For my luck - Ultron PCC189 is very good! I think it might be as good as my Mullard ECC88 or even Amperex GAC.


 
   
  Very interesting. Keep us posted how it compares to the Amperex.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> For my luck - Ultron PCC189 is very good! And I say it only after it has been in my amp for about 1min. Got two of them. Got to burn-in these babies. I think it might be as good as my Mullard ECC88 or even Amperex GAC. Tight bass & kick, great mids section, great soundstage. Better than Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 for sure. But we`ll see what is my opinion after analytical comparing.
> 
> E: Going to pick up my Brimar and sylvania now. Will post later first impressions about these.
> 
> ...


 
  You keep costing me money, Coil. Just took the last one of these Ultron PCC189s from a German seller on Ebay. Shipping was more than the tube itself, but I looked forward to comparing it to my GAC.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> You keep costing me money, Coil. Just took the last one of these Ultron PCC189s from a German seller on Ebay. Shipping was more than the tube itself, but I looked forward to comparing it to my GAC.


 
   
  Hahahaa I was also monitoring that one  Just checked that Coil probably got this one sold


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Hahahaa I was also monitoring that one  Just checked that Coil probably got this one sold


 
  Yeah, I saw five people monitoring it so I thought I'd go ahead and snatch it up. I lost out on an auction last night on a lot of four Amperex Orange Globes, all of which appeared to be GACs (dimpled getters with a single support). The lot went for $51 plus $5 shipping. This one wound up more per tube, but less over all out of my pocket!!


----------



## CoiL

I got my 2 Ultron PCC189`s from Cyprus (insanely well packaged!). I know that german offer BluesDaddy but are you sure you are getting the Ultron tube? Because 1 of them was sold and they were not same tubes.
   
  About JAN Sylvania 6922 - It`s very very similiar to 6922EH. Not sure yet, but seems to have tinybit larger soundstage and maybe tinybit tighter bass. 
   
  Brimar ECC88 (with "cup" shaped getter). Don`t bother to compare atm but sounds littlebit bright sided, less bass and less mids compared to amperex. Havent figured out soundstage yet, don`t bother to mess with this tube atm. Later. It`s not bad tube though. Other brimar I have is total crap compared to it.
   
  I`m tired today and can`t make adequate comparing between Mullard ECC88 & Amperex GAC vs. Ultron PCC189. 
  But atm briefly comparing I like Ultron more than Mullard ECC88, it has more "air and life". Mullard ECC88 sounds tinybit "dry" to me when I compare those two. And don`t get your hopes so high up, seems it can`t beat Amperex GAC unfortunately ;(
  Will update impressions later this week when everything has been burned-in.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> I got my 2 Ultron PCC189`s from Cyprus (insanely well packaged!). I know that german offer BluesDaddy but are you sure you are getting the Ultron tube? Because 1 of them was sold and they were not same tubes.


 
   
  Dang, that pesky language barrier, missed that. Don't know which one I got, but we shall see! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 E: I sent the seller a message asking which one I'm getting. Hopefully find out in the morning.
   
  On a more positive note, I got my Mullard in the mail today from Mike at the Rock Grotto. At first listen, it sounds VERY similar to the GAC to my ears - but I'm only listening through speakers right now and last listened to the GAC last night. So, auditory memory being what it is, I can't say definitively that they sound the same without doing some (relatively) quick A/Bing with headphones. However, it sounds REALLY good playing Bill Evans right now!!


----------



## CoiL

Yeah, they are very similiar but Mullard isn`t so good in mids section and high seem littlebit "flat". These things make it "dry" compared Amperex GAC which is "full of juice". But it`s only my opinion.


----------



## Salvatore

My Siemens and Telefunken tubes are really growing on me as they get more burn in. I see myself constantly switching back to them from orange globe. Siemens has diminished soundstage as compared to orange globe, but very nice details and balance. In this case smaller sound stage equals better focus. Telefunken has very good clarity and openess. Tele is also not as warm (colored) as orange globe, but has sweeeeet tight bass. If I listen my Telefunken for a long time and switch back to orange globe, the globe feels slightly blurry in the lower register. I also listened rocket for a change, and it really has lost its magic due to the better tubes I've got. My best tubes are definitely globe, Siemens and Tele, but it seems like I'm enjoying Tele the most at the moment. It's probably because of headphone synergy.
   
  The "unidentified" tube of mine is actually a Valvo tube, but sounds better than the Valvo with prints still intact. I guess it's used NOS and hence burned in more.
   
  I still haven't decided for what tubes to get to fill the last two spots in my cigar box. I'd really like to hunt down an amperex with tighter bass. Maybe white logos (either 6922 PQ or 7308) could indeed be the solution. They just are so damn expensive. I have couple of interesting auctions going on at the moment but if they left me empty handed I'll probably go for the Ultron.


----------



## buestad

Quote: 





buestad said:


> Will a russian 6N1P-EV tube work in the Aune T1? An if, Will it be any good?


 
  I Decided not to buy it based on what i found of info, but since I've allready payed for it I decided to change the order to a pair of 6N23P. The ad says they are made by the Reflector plant but the pictures seems to have a rocet logo... Isn't that Voskhod?


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> My Siemens and Telefunken tubes are really growing on me as they get more burn in. I see myself constantly switching back to them from orange globe. Siemens has diminished soundstage as compared to orange globe, but very nice details and balance. In this case smaller sound stage equals better focus. Telefunken has very good clarity and openess. Tele is also not as warm (colored) as orange globe, but has sweeeeet tight bass. If I listen my Telefunken for a long time and switch back to orange globe, the globe feels slightly blurry in the lower register. I also listened rocket for a change, and it really has lost its magic due to the better tubes I've got. My best tubes are definitely globe, Siemens and Tele, but it seems like I'm enjoying Tele the most at the moment. It's probably because of headphone synergy.
> 
> The "unidentified" tube of mine is actually a Valvo tube, but sounds better than the Valvo with prints still intact. I guess it's used NOS and hence burned in more.
> 
> I still haven't decided for what tubes to get to fill the last two spots in my cigar box. I'd really like to hunt down an amperex with tighter bass. Maybe white logos (either 6922 PQ or 7308) could indeed be the solution. They just are so damn expensive. I have couple of interesting auctions going on at the moment but if they left me empty handed I'll probably go for the Ultron.


 
   
  White label Amperex 7308 is pretty nice, very holographic, good detail & dynamics & better than average mids.   They are expensive though, I paid $85/each + shipping for mine.


----------



## CoiL

> Telefunken has very good clarity and openess. Tele is also not as warm (colored) as orange globe, but has sweeeeet tight bass.


 
  I`m starting to feel same about my Ultron PCC189. It has littlebit tighter bass & kick + soundstage is bigger&clearer. But it depends on music too, most things are just so "real" with Amperex GAC that nothing can beat it. I still consider Amperex GAC as my best tube with rock/metal/jazz and Ultron PCC189 seems to take 2nd place, Mullard ECC88 is 3rd.
  Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 is best tube for every genre and has the best tight bass & kick out of my tubes.
  For electronic music 6922EH, JAN Sylvania 6922 & Tungsram  PCC88 are best ones ...last one has tighter bass than the other 2.  
   
  Salvatore, PM me if you are going to order that Ultron PCC189, I would like to join with your order (JJ E88CC) if you are willing to post it for me.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





toschek said:


> White label Amperex 7308 is pretty nice, very holographic, good detail & dynamics & better than average mids.   They are expensive though, I paid $85/each + shipping for mine.


 
   
  Hmm I think it could be actually pretty similar to my 7DJ8 Telefunken then. Maybe I should go for the 6922? What do you think?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





buestad said:


> I Decided not to buy it based on what i found of info, but since I've allready payed for it I decided to change the order to a pair of 6N23P. The ad says they are made by the Reflector plant but the pictures seems to have a rocet logo... Isn't that Voskhod?


 
   
  Yes the rocket logo is Voshkod but it should be marginally better than the reflector. Siemens 7DJ8 is even better intimate sounding tube but is also more expensive.
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> I`m starting to feel same about my Ultron PCC189. It has littlebit tighter bass & kick + soundstage is bigger&clearer. But it depends on music too, most things are just so "real" with Amperex GAC that nothing can beat it. I still consider Amperex GAC as my best tube with rock/metal/jazz and Ultron PCC189 seems to take 2nd place, Mullard ECC88 is 3rd.
> Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 is best tube for every genre and has the best tight bass & kick out of my tubes.
> For electronic music 6922EH, JAN Sylvania 6922 & Tungsram  PCC88 are best ones ...last one has tighter bass than the other 2.
> 
> Salvatore, PM me if you are going to order that Ultron PCC189, I would like to join with your order (JJ E88CC) if you are willing to post it for me.


 
   
  Yeah the bass seems to be the weakest link of orange globe. Maybe toned down tight bass + clarity would be the amperex of perfection for me. I usually switch to siemens when listening rock just because of that smaller more focused sound stage. Very large sound stages are not the best in every styles imo.
   
  Sure I can order it for you but how much are the shipping costs from the store itself? If you don't mind me sending it to you in a bubble plastic envelope the shipping will be maybe few euros for me (can't really pack it to be too thick or else it goes as a maxi-letter and costs maybe twice the price). I have plenty of those envelopes so you'll get that one for free of course  All the cardboard boxes I have are quite big and not the best for sending small tubes (cost wise).


----------



## CoiL

If me myself have to order to Estonia, then I have to buy at least for 30€ + shipping (required for orders outside FIN), so thats why I`m asking for your favor but only when you yourself are going to order something from there. And for me the bubble wrapped tube is ok.
   
  About Ultron PCC189 - soundstage is not large but littlebit larger than Amperex (maybe even not larger than Amperex) but it certainly has more "air" and clearness. For 6€ I really recommend you to try it


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Dang, that pesky language barrier, missed that. Don't know which one I got, but we shall see!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Heard back from the Ebay seller, I'm getting the Ultron and not the RSD!!


----------



## CoiL

Great news! Hope you like it


----------



## icecap

I pulled the plug and get the Amperex orange globe with dimple-disc and a Tungsram E88CC red label for S$50.. seems so popular this Amperex orange globe that I pop in immediately to try..
   
  the first reaction I got was the similarity in immersion to the Gold Lion E88CC! very warm and thick sounding.. on careful audition, the highs roll-off abit too much for my liking though.. as a result mids are quite forward.. the strength of this tube lies in wrapping you with the sound, which I like for classical.. but it is not as layered as Gold Lion, and thus becoming too congested for me.. overall is more suitable for pop and rock, which I think Coil mentioned it before if I remembered correctly..
   
  then came this Tungsram E88CC which the seller from Quartz Acoustic mentioned it came quite close to the Amperex 7380 except less sparkle, at a fraction of the price! the red label is the industrial grade, compare to the yellow consumer grade..
   
  listening to this, oh man, kinda hard to believe this has not get any mention here!! love it! I can hear layers now! slight air gives the overall a light and transparent nature.. bass is tighter and not boomy as a result of this.. mids might be slightly recessed, but the clear timbre and dynamics is what I enjoy.. great soundstage too!
   
  my Philips A-frame ECC88 is like a hybrid between Gold Lion and Tunsgram now I feel.. but in no way are they too similar to each other.. quite glad now I can enjoy each of their strength and flavours..
   
  edit: oh and by the way, I got these tubes when I was enquiring Quartz Acoustic a few days ago on any chances of Amperex A-frame coming in.. he told me about the coming round of dimple-disc and also the Tungsram.. these tubes are not up yet in the store, as he mentioned about the arrival of a tube tester coming in a few days time for better guarantee, before officially putting them up..


----------



## icecap

the Tungsram E88CC.. not the best image taken, hah.. wordings abit fade though.. but luckily the sound is good..


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





icecap said:


> the first reaction I got was the similarity in immersion to the Gold Lion E88CC! very warm and thick sounding.. on careful audition, the highs roll-off abit too much for my liking though.. as a result mids are quite forward.. the strength of this tube lies in wrapping you with the sound, which I like for classical.. but it is not as layered as Gold Lion, and thus becoming too congested for me.. overall is more suitable for pop and rock, which I think Coil mentioned it before if I remembered correctly..


 
   
  You really seem to like that gold lion. Maybe I should use it more often to break it in more. Nevertheless I feel like there is no way it's worth $40.
   
  Quote: 





icecap said:


> then came this Tungsram E88CC which the seller from Quartz Acoustic mentioned it came quite close to the Amperex 7380 except less sparkle, at a fraction of the price! the red label is the industrial grade, compare to the yellow consumer grade..


 
   
  You the one who got that 7308 from quartz? I was also interested in that but somebody got it few hours before me 
   
  E: any other tubes than dimples and tungs coming to quartz?


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Salvatore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> You the one who got that 7308 from quartz? I was also interested in that but somebody got it few hours before me
> 
> E: any other tubes than dimples and tungs coming to quartz?


 
   
  No, I didn't get the Amperex 7308 from them.. that is gonna be quite an investment I guess.. but definitely the Tungsram is tempting me to hear how well this 7308 seems to be..
   
  the seller only mentioned this two to me.. he was saying the Tungsram is similarly priced as the orange globe since that's what I initially was interested in.. the comparison with 7308 was what gave me in to temptation..


----------



## CoiL

> mids might be slightly recessed, but the clear timbre and dynamics is what I enjoy


 
  Now, was maybe going to pull trigger on that one but idea of recessed mids holds me back now. Also ~20£ including shipping is too expensive imo. More likely will prefer stocking up on Ultron PCC189, seriously love this tube! 

   
  Last Tungsram E88CC available @ eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270930408564?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
   
  E: Great deal for 3x Philips PCC189 + 1 RTC PCC189 -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-radio-valves-new-old-stock-PCC189-x-4-/321093631636?pt=UK_Collectables_RadioTelevision_Telephony_SM&hash=item4ac2abfe94
   
  Get it while you can 
   
  Another deal, anyone willing to try those PCC189`s ? : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-X-PCC189-RFT-NOS-TUBES-/310635452392?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item485350d7e8
   
  E3: Red labeled Tungsram E88CC available from Germany for ~29€ + post: http://classic-tubeshop-kunisch.de/shop/article_306/E88CC-TUNGSRAM.html?sessid=Wj5dsQ1MvUOZUEdMh3F0Zqu6AHFpvOCyMTSTV7pWA01JFde4ESaGlbWrg6zxcqFE&shop_param=cid%3D26%26aid%3D306%26
   
  E4:
   
  I found a place where to get Ultron PCC189 for only 1.5€ but the catch is - I have to order at least for 50€ and post is another 20€ -.-
  They offer lots of other cheap PCC189, PCC88 & ECC88 NOS tubes (some of them are much more worth!). I put my basket together with 20 tubes (at least 2 of each)... but am I going to buy all these? Especially if I take into consider that I already have a lot of good tubes with backups... hmmm.... I want to do it but rational thinking says no ;D 
   
  Btw, I`m starting to like Ultron PCC189 same or even more than my Amperex GAC ;P


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> I found a place where to get Ultron PCC189 for only 1.5€ but the catch is - I have to order at least for 50€ and post is another 20€ -.-
> They offer lots of other cheap PCC189, PCC88 & ECC88 NOS tubes (some of them are much more worth!). I put my basket together with 20 tubes (at least 2 of each)... but am I going to buy all these? Especially if I take into consider that I already have a lot of good tubes with backups... hmmm.... I want to do it but rational thinking says no ;D
> 
> Btw, I`m starting to like Ultron PCC189 same or even more than my Amperex GAC ;P


 
   
  Hold your horses man. If that's Ultron and JJ you're after I can order them from that Finnish shop and send them to you. I'll get Ultron for myself since it seems like a nice tube to own. OR If this place you have found has really nice tubes I might be interested of doing joint order. Got to finish my 10 collection soon just because it takes too much time and patience to monitor these ebay auctions.


----------



## CoiL

Yeah, basically I have only 3 tubes "short" from "enough" (20)... JJ E88CC & Some PCC88`s would be great to fill those places but when I look at those prices on that shop then I`m scratching my neck. Joint order is maybe good idea but I have to think about my financials atm, got to buy also new summer wheels for my car -.-


----------



## InCreD1Ble

Is Amperex GAC the same thing as Amperex Orange Globe?


----------



## CoiL

Yes. GAC coded orange globe difference is single support leg dimple disc getter. GAC coded orange globe is harder to find but should be same sounding than A-frame dimple disc orange globe. Not sure though, I don`t have both versions.
   
  But yeah, my tube hoarding result atm (copy-paste from rockgrotto):


> Mike, I have some good findings (at least to me) - Ultron PCC189 & Miniwatt/Dario PCC189.
> 
> Ultron is quite easy to get and very cheap (In EU at least, cheapest I know atm is 1.5€
> 
> ...


 
   
E: Note, Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 looks like this: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330861699249?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648
It`s not same as Miniwatt PCC189.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





incred1ble said:


> Is Amperex GAC the same thing as Amperex Orange Globe?


 
   
  Some Amperex orange print info from tubeworld:
   
   
  "_6DJ8 Amperex Holland "PQ" 1968-1976 with orange printing (PQ=premium quality, tubes will most likely have a "o" getter halo from 1968-1970 and a "A" frame getter halo after 1970. PQ and orange globe typically look and sound the same._"
   
  https://www.tubeworld.com/6dj8.htm#6DJ8PQ68
   
   
  "_6DJ8 Amperex Holland "globe logo" 1968-1975 orange printing (all have either small "o" getter halo, "dimpled disc" getter halo or "A" frame getter halo)._"
   
  https://www.tubeworld.com/6dj8.htm#6DJ8GLOBE
   
   
  Then there is also those white label 6DJ8 tubes. "_6DJ8 Amperex Holland 1966-1970 white printing (all have a small "o" getter halo) and 1970-1976 white printing (all have a "dimpled disc" getter halo or "A" frame getter halo)._"
   
  https://www.tubeworld.com/6dj8.htm#6DJ8WHITE66
   
  --------------
   
  Coil has single leg support while I have A-frame. A-frame has /\ shaped dual leg support. In my understanding they sound similar, but A-frames are newer production and should be less susceptible to microphonics. Quote from wikipedia: _"When electronic equipment was built using vacuum tubes, microphonics were often a serious design problem. The charged elements in the vacuum tubes can mechanically vibrate, changing the distance between the elements, producing charge flows in and out of the tube in a manner identical to a capacitor microphone. A system sufficiently susceptible to microphonics could experience audio feedback, and make noises if jarred or bumped. *Certain vacuum tubes were made with thicker internal insulating plates and more supports to minimize these effect*s"_).
   
  You can easily find both versions from ebay. Here are some photos I stole from ebay auctions:
   
   

   
  In the left hand side photo you can see that the disc (below the silvery top) has small dimples around it. That's why it's called dimpled disc or dimpled disc getter. Again quote from wikipedia: "_A *getter* is a deposit of reactive material that is placed inside a vacuum system, for the purpose of completing and maintaining the vacuum. When gas molecules strike the getter material, they combine with it chemically or by adsorption. Thus the getter removes small amounts of gas from the evacuated space_".
   
  These getters can be ring (or halo) shaped, D-shaped and discs like in this particular case. There can also be double rings and the rings come in different sizes (like Bugle Boy can have small, medium and large halo getters from which the large halos seems to be the most wanted) etc.
   
  On the Right hand side photo you can easily see the different disc support systems (A-frame vs single leg).


----------



## BluesDaddy

The saga of my two Voskhods continues. After ordering them on February 23, according to Russian post tracking, they have finally hit something called "Export of International Mail". This as of yesterday 11:30 PM what I can only assume to be Moscow time. As I said, never again will I order something from Russia. This makes anything I've ever ordered from China look speedy!!


----------



## CoiL

Salvatore, Single legged disc getters are only ones coded as GAC as far as I know. Your left hand picture A frame has GAG codes  Imo that microphonics thingy is something to not worry much about since they are not placed into guitar amps that vibrate and shake, in this case. And if you don`t put them under or near other electronic things then it's ok.


----------



## Salvatore

Oh seems like you are right. To be honest it was kind of strange to me that they had the same code. Seems like I just didn't pay enough attention to the details. Thanks for pointing that out!


----------



## InCreD1Ble

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> They both have orange print, globe logo and dimpled disc. It seems like they both have the same GAC codes as well. Coil has single leg support while I have A-frame. A-frame has /\ shaped dual leg support. In my understanding they sound the same, but A-frames are more sought after because they should be less susceptible to microphonics. Quote from wikipedia: _"When electronic equipment was built using vacuum tubes, microphonics were often a serious design problem. The charged elements in the vacuum tubes can mechanically vibrate, changing the distance between the elements, producing charge flows in and out of the tube in a manner identical to a capacitor microphone. A system sufficiently susceptible to microphonics could experience audio feedback, and make noises if jarred or bumped. *Certain vacuum tubes were made with thicker internal insulating plates and more supports to minimize these effect*s"_).
> 
> You can easily find both versions from ebay. Here are some photos I stole from ebay auctions:
> 
> ...


 

 Thank you, that was very informative!


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Oh seems like you are right. To be honest it was kind of strange to me that they had the same code. Seems like I just didn't pay enough attention to the details. Thanks for pointing that out!


 
  The "GAG" or "GAC" is the code for the tube type ("GA" = ECC88/6DJ8) and the last letter is the "change code". I can't find anything definitive on what that might pertain to. Best info is that it was for internal factory use, maybe to trace batches of tubes. If so, then tubes with these same codes are probably from the same batches - obviously if the factory and date codes match. However, those codes (factory and date) seem to rub off the easiest.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





incred1ble said:


> Thank you, that was very informative!


 
   
  My pleasure.


----------



## CoiL

Offtopic:
   
  Someone in here wanted me to share more music. This is the latest find - Malakai - Reflections of Night and Day. It`s free to download (name your price) in FLAC format. It`s very chill and relaxing (guitar melodies + downtempo beat). Here is the link: http://malakai-music.bandcamp.com/album/reflections-of-night-and-day
   
  Enjoy!


----------



## HPiper

I know I could probably dig around and find this info, but can anyone who owns one of these tell me what the highest bitrate it can process, will it do 192/24bit?


----------



## CoiL

Today had some more serious comparing with rested ears between Lorenz PCC189 vs. Philips PCC189 vs. Mullard ECC88.
  I used Karnivool - Change (FLAC) song this time. Again I can confirm that Philips PCC189 and Mullard ECC88 that I have are very very similiar. Mullard has maybe tinybit better mids but Philips has Maybe tinybit better highs, very hard to tell. Philips has tinybit better mids (and because of that tinybit better bass) than Lorenz PCC189. But also, they come very close. Maybe Lorenz will open up its mids more after longer burning. All three has same soundstage size & imaging imo. 
   
  There are still 10x Philips PCC189 (Heerlen Holland) available from where I bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PHILIPS-PCC189-7ES8-NOS-NIB-VINTAGE-VACUUM-TUBE-HEERLEN-HOLLAND-/261186327538?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3ccfeb13f2
   
  Really recommend this tube for 4.56£ + post!


----------



## RAFA

Quote: 





coil said:


> Today had some more serious comparing with rested ears between Lorenz PCC189 vs. Philips PCC189 vs. Mullard ECC88.
> I used Karnivool - Change (FLAC) song this time. Again I can confirm that Philips PCC189 and Mullard ECC88 that I have are very very similiar. Mullard has maybe tinybit better mids but Philips has Maybe tinybit better highs, very hard to tell. Philips has tinybit better mids (and because of that tinybit better bass) than Lorenz PCC189. But also, they come very close. Maybe Lorenz will open up its mids more after longer burning. All three has same soundstage size & imaging imo.
> 
> There are still 10x Philips PCC189 (Heerlen Holland) available from where I bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PHILIPS-PCC189-7ES8-NOS-NIB-VINTAGE-VACUUM-TUBE-HEERLEN-HOLLAND-/261186327538?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3ccfeb13f2
> ...


 
   
  As long they are better than the stock 6922EH (not that I do not like the sound, but it seems, that it easily can be better). I just ordered two of them. Hopefully they survive the flight to Europe and work.
   
  The 6N1P I got from Russia had only one working channel and that one was too bright for me, so I did not even bother to get a working one.
   
  The next tube I ordered was a Siemens E88C. It was a single Triode. My mistake, should have bought an extra C.
   
  In Europe the PCC189 sell for 25€+ a piece,. That link you gave us is a pretty good deal!


----------



## buestad

Bought the Phillips PCC189. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





buestad said:


> Bought the Phillips PCC189. Thanks for the tip!


 
  If these are anything like the Phillips PCC189 I got (NOS), they take a bit of burning in before the sound good. I'm (e: NOT) quite as enthused about them as Coil is - my Mullard is significantly more engaging to me than the Phillips, but it is a very nice tube and more than worth what I paid ($10.07 including shipping). I spent a couple days burning it in with "brown" noise.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *RAFA* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> As long they are better than the stock 6922EH (not that I do not like the sound, but it seems, that it easily can be better). I just ordered two of them. Hopefully they survive the flight to Europe and work.


 
  I would not say better, just different sounding and better for different genres than 6922EH. I`m from Estonia, if you didn`t notice (which is in EU) and it came quite fast (I think it was 6 days) and was well packed. I wouldn`t worry much. 
   
  One more note (again) - My mullard ECC88 is also Holland made like my Philips PCC189. Why I say this is because there are also same looking and marked (except factory code) white new style shield logo Mullard ECC88 that is made in England Blackburn factory and might sound different than my Mullard ECC88 does.
   
   
   


> In Europe the PCC189 sell for 25€+ a piece


 
  I don`t know where in EU you live but the EU I live in has them much cheaper! For 25€ I could get a great condition Amperex orange globe LOL ;D


----------



## RAFA

Quote: 





coil said:


> I would not say better, just different sounding and better for different genres than 6922EH. I`m from Estonia, if you didn`t notice (which is in EU) and it came quite fast (I think it was 6 days) and was well packed. I wouldn`t worry much.
> 
> One more note (again) - My mullard ECC88 is also Holland made like my Philips PCC189. Why I say this is because there are also same looking and marked (except factory code) white new style shield logo Mullard ECC88 that is made in England Blackburn factory and might sound different than my Mullard ECC88 does.
> 
> ...


 
   
  This is good news. That means I can expect them to come in a week. Yeah, I have seen it, but it was after I posted the message  I live in Austria...
   
  About the price. I just copy paste PHILIPS PCC189 into Ebay and that is what I got. There is also slightly more costing edition: PCC189 MINIWATT.
   
  I'll search for a Amperex Orange Globe 25€-edition, after I received the Philips tubes and after I bought one of these 6n23p tubes. One at a time


----------



## CoiL

Amperex 6DJ8/ECC88 orange globe, Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 (NOT same as miniwatt pcc189 ! ) and Ultron PCC189 are the must have tubes imho. For electronic atmospheric music JAN Sylvania 6922 is littlebit better than 6922EH but not really worth to get if you have already 6922EH, unless you get it cheap like I did.


----------



## lwrs10

Finally got mine after a month and a half of wait. Right of of the box I was impressed. Mine came with the EH 6922 tube. 
   
  Now keep in mind I have 5 Dacs laying around here to compare it to. 
   
  Emotiva XDA-2
  Aune X1
  Bel Canto 2.5
  Keces DA-151 MKII
  Schitt Bifrost
   
   
  And honestly, the T1 is leaps and bounds above its price range. I am comparing it to a dac costing $2500, and 4 others that run about $350-400. 
   
  Here is what I noticed right out of the box. It is SMOOTH, without losing any detail. The soundstage is very wide. I am able to place instruments with ease. Bass was not very well defined though. I gave the 6922 tube about 3 hours last night before the tube rolling started.
   
   Next went in an E88CC labelled Tungsram. This tube tightened up the bass, and seemed to widen the sound stage a tad. A little smoother than the 6922.
   
  After that it was an Amperex 6DJ8. This tube is a midrange king! Guitars just come alive. But, its a little too soft on the top and bottom for my taste. 
   
  Then a Russian 6HN1(61N) went in. Very crisp tube I must say. Little too crisp, but it may need time to break in as this tube was brand new.
   
   
  This may be one of those "chifi" wonders. A piece of equipment that performs well above its price range, by a large amount. But, of course, most "audiofools" will discount it because its made in china and its cheap. I paid $129.99 shipped for mine off Ebay. 
   
  All of this was on my main stereo system, not headphones. So I got my headphones out an hour ago. DT990 Premiums(250 ohm). This T1 drives these great! According to the specs, the headphone section looked a bit weak, but I am beginning to think there's a misprint somewhere. The power supply brick for this uses a dual rail(+15v and -15v). So how in the world does this have less power than the Aune X1 that uses a single 15v rail? So I decided to get my scope, tone generator, and meter out. 
   
   
  At 1khz sine wave, on a 32 ohm load, I measured 22 volts peak to peak before clipping. The specs of this thing say its only capable of 10v P-P. So what does this mean? Thats 15 watts at 32 ohms, 1.9 watts at 250 ohms, and 806mw at 600 ohms. This is MORE than enough to drive any headphone. 
   
  I will add my headphone review after a few hours of listening.....


----------



## CoiL

Another positive feedback. Glad you like it. Lot of ppl I´ve talked about this "magic"-box don`t belive me how good this thing is for the price it sells for.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





hpiper said:


> I know I could probably dig around and find this info, but can anyone who owns one of these tell me what the highest bitrate it can process, will it do 192/24bit?


 
   
  96 KHz/24 bit is the maximum.


----------



## walfredo

Thanks for the impressions, lwrs10.  The T1 is really an amazing thing.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> If these are anything like the Phillips PCC189 I got (NOS), they take a bit of burning in before the sound good. I'm (e: NOT) quite as enthused about them as Coil is - my Mullard is significantly more engaging to me than the Phillips, but it is a very nice tube and more than worth what I paid ($10.07 including shipping). I spent a couple days burning it in with "brown" noise.


 
  I would say I`m not enthused but they are great tubes, especially for the price. Forgot if I asked about your Mullard ECC88... do you have Heerlen or Blackburn version? There are also many other things to consider, ppl hear differently, different cans, different music etc. But seems that I have littlebit different opinion from yours about "engaging" and how it "should" sound like. It`s like Salvatore and icecap are on different opinion about Gold lion. Nothing bad about it, just saying that there are lots of other things to consider.


----------



## walfredo

Has anyone tried the GE tube?


----------



## CoiL

GE tube?


----------



## uncola

Dumb question, the flippable switch on the back of the t1.. is that the power switch?  or gain high/low?  This is my first amp and I'm going to pair it with 50 ohm sennheiser hd595 and 12 ohm sony mdr-ma900.  Is that a bad pairing?  For low ohm headphones should I get a cheaper/lower power amp?
  edit: figured it out, it's the power switch.  To adjust gain there are little dip switches you can flip if you open the amp up.  For my headphones should I turn the gain down to the lowest settings?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





uncola said:


> Dumb question, the flippable switch on the back of the t1.. is that the power switch?  or gain high/low?  This is my first amp and I'm going to pair it with 50 ohm sennheiser hd595 and 12 ohm sony mdr-ma900.  Is that a bad pairing?  For low ohm headphones should I get a cheaper/lower power amp?


 
   
  Not really sure what SW means, but I use that switch to turn off the power when changing tubes. Gain switches are located at the bottom of the amp.
   
  E: Yes my recommendation is to use the lowest gain as possible.


----------



## uncola

Oh I see where to set it now.  First time I've seen the bottom of the t1.  It kind of detracts from the look.  So the 4 switches are two each per stereo channel?  Anyone know exactly how many ohms or whatnot each level corresponds with?


----------



## CoiL

Guys, didn`t you get thing called MANUAL with your T1? It should be there inside the package! Read it, there is shown how much gain in which switches positions you get.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





uncola said:


> Oh I see where to set it now.  First time I've seen the bottom of the t1.  It kind of detracts from the look.  So the 4 switches are two each per stereo channel?  Anyone know exactly how many ohms or whatnot each level corresponds with?


 
   
  If I understood correctly you don't own the T1 just yet and hence the questions. There are two sockets with two switches on both. When all the switches are turned down (off) it's 0db gain. When the first switches from both sockets are turned up it's +10db and when all the switches are up it's +16db gain.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Amperex 6DJ8/ECC88 orange globe, Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 (NOT same as miniwatt pcc189 ! ) and Ultron PCC189 are the must have tubes imho. For electronic atmospheric music JAN Sylvania 6922 is littlebit better than 6922EH but not really worth to get if you have already 6922EH, unless you get it cheap like I did.


 
   
  My favorite tubes at the moment are Telefunken 7DJ8, Amperex A-frame 6DJ8 and Siemens 7DJ8. They all have their strenghts and weaknesses, but they also complement each other very well. I could actually see myself coming along just fine with these three tubes alone.
   
  I guess I don't have to tell you again how that Amperex sounds, but it's indeed very lush and mellow sounding tube with great soundstage and imaging. Highly musical with great mids and vocal presence. Its major downside is, however, the lack of clarity and tightness especially in low frequencies. The bass is somewhat boomy and lacks the resolution if compared to some other tubes.
   
  This leads me to Telefunken, which is easily the most natural sounding tube in my collection. I really enjoy its wide holographic super transparent presentation. Everything seem neutral without any coloration whatsoever. The most obvious downside is the slightly laid back vocals. It can also feel less musical and engaging as compared to the more aggressive and lusher tubes.
   
  Siemens is the vocal king! Seems like everything is laid in a way that vocals can really shine. Goes very well with acoustic and semi acoustic songs as well as those good old oldies. I enjoy this tube especially when listening artists such as Chet Atkins and Bobby Vinton. It's also suprisingly good for rock and blues thanks to the focused sound stage and imaging.
   
  It seems I just won 4 Amperex orange globe A-frames for $21.61 + $16 for shipping. I really don't need all 4 of them so I'm willing to sell 2 or even 3 of them for anyone who is interested of trying them out or just needs a spare tube for their collection. I might have to pay customs (24%), but could probably sell them for about €10 a piece + shipping. If you live in EU the postage in bubble plastic envelope should be only few euros. It was this listing if you want to check the photos and measurement results: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amperex-Holland-A-Frame-6DJ8-ECC88-dimpled-disc-getter-strong-matched-quad-/160992730854?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=%252B%252B%252BJ9Pq7QFeWIWEWSYMh9%252FHj5Uk%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
   
  I will of course also test that they work in my T1 before sending them. I could also sell one of my rocket logos, my gold lion, Electro Harmonix and maybe even one of my Teles or Valvos. PM me if interested.


----------



## Magnum26

I'm considering getting one of these to power my 250-Ohm DT880s but am a little worried about the tube as I would want to take it to LAN parties as well as use it as home.


----------



## Dashie

Quote: 





coil said:


> Amperex 6DJ8/ECC88 orange globe, Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 (NOT same as miniwatt pcc189 ! ) and Ultron PCC189 are the must have tubes imho. For electronic atmospheric music JAN Sylvania 6922 is littlebit better than 6922EH but not really worth to get if you have already 6922EH, unless you get it cheap like I did.


 
  Hi CoiL! I notice the above PCC189 tubes are regarded pretty well by you I currently have the Gold Lion E88CC/6922 plugged into my Aune T1. Can I ask how the PCC189s sound like in comparison to the gold lions & stock tube and what kinda music they are suited for?(Pardon me if you've already done comparisons that i may have missed out! ) I've gotten really excited about them PCC189s from reading your comments but I reside in Asia thus I can't really seem to get hold of them that readily and cheap  I listen to all kinda songs btw and i'd really appreciate if i can get some input as to how i can get them tubes you mentioned. Thanks in advance!


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





coil said:


> GE tube?


 
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/190814064707?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


----------



## CoiL

Don`t know about that General Electric tube. No info on that. I've seen it on sale but no interest for me yet.
   
   
   


> Its major downside is, however, the lack of clarity and tightness especially in low frequencies. The bass is somewhat boomy and lacks the resolution if compared to some other tubes.


 
  This part doesn`t sound like my Amperex GAC at all. My tube has pretty good clarity and tightness. Bass isn`t boomy at all, maybe should have littlebit more kick and tightness but certainly not boomy. I think some part of our tubes difference comes from different cans.
   
  Dashie, please read earlier posts. Sorry but don`t bother to write my tube impressions all over again.


----------



## buestad

Quote: 





coil said:


> ....please read earlier posts. Sorry but don`t bother to write my tube impressions all over again.


 
  This thread is looong! What about creating a tube list page for the Aune T1 on the wiki and gather impressions there? Or are these impressions to subjective so one could never agree?


----------



## Buttnose

Anyone else having problems with their T1 randomly cutting out and needing multiple resets (turned on/off) to work again? Seems like the usb connection on mine is dying.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> This part doesn`t sound like my Amperex GAC at all. My tube has pretty good clarity and tightness. Bass isn`t boomy at all, maybe should have littlebit more kick and tightness but certainly not boomy. I think some part of our tubes difference comes from different cans.


 
   
  This has nothing to do with headphones in my opinion. My Telefunken, for example, doesn't have this issue. It could, however, be that my Amperex is way beyond it's best years. It's used NOS without any measurements so maybe it's just slowly failing on me. When I get those new Amperexes I'll do some comparisons.
   
  Quote: 





buestad said:


> This thread is looong! What about creating a tube list page for the Aune T1 on the wiki and gather impressions there? Or are these impressions to subjective so one could never agree?


 
   
  Have you tried the search function? And yes I feel that to some extent these are subjective impressions. I mean good tubes are good tubes, but there are lots of variables which determine the optimal tubes for your headphones and music preferences.


----------



## Dashie

Hey there  any idea how i can get the ultron PCC189 &  Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 tubes ? Seems difficult to find them around esp good priced ones shipped over to south-east asia region ..


----------



## CoiL

I know several EU sellers but you must order at least for 30-50€ + add the post. Next month I will propably order some with Salvatore (if he still wants). We both are in EU and quite near to eachother. I don`t know if I have time to take more ppl in this deal and send all the tubes around but I`ll think about it.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





dashie said:


> Hey there  any idea how i can get the ultron PCC189 &  Miniwatt/Dario PCC189 tubes ? Seems difficult to find them around esp good priced ones shipped over to south-east asia region ..


 
   
  Dude these tubes don't grow on trees. New old stock (NOS) tubes are getting increasingly hard to find, and even if you do manage to find the tubes you are looking for the prices could be very very high. Try google and ebay, at least that's how the rest of us do it. We have Ultrons here in Finland, but those Darios are getting very rare. I recommend starting the rolling business from something that is not only cheap but also easy to get. After couple of tubes you'll get the idea whether the rolling business is for you. It actually takes a lot of time and patience to hunt down those (ebay) NOS bargains. You should also consider where you want to take your current sound. Many people here ask what are the best tubes when they actually should be analysing their current setups and think what kind of headphone-tube synergy they are after.
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> I know several EU sellers but you must order at least for 30-50€ + add the post. Next month I will propably order some with Salvatore (if he still wants). We both are in EU and quite near to eachother. I don`t know if I have time to take more ppl in this deal and send all the tubes around but I`ll think about it.


 
   
  Well I'll definitely order that Ultron from the Finnish shop and you are free to join me on that if you wish. What comes to that 50€ haul I probably need to get some additional details about few tubes before I'm in. It would also be much appreciated if you could ease my orange globe stock and buy one of my A-frames (I'm assuming that you haven't got your GAC spare yet? Or are you saving this purchase to that mass order as well?).


----------



## Salvatore

Hey *bluesdaddy* do you have any photos ready of your cigar box collection? Would love to see how you managed that.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





dashie said:


> Hi CoiL! I notice the above PCC189 tubes are regarded pretty well by you I currently have the Gold Lion E88CC/6922 plugged into my Aune T1. Can I ask how the PCC189s sound like in comparison to the gold lions & stock tube and what kinda music they are suited for? (Pardon me if you've already done comparisons that i may have missed out! ) I've gotten really excited about them PCC189s from reading your comments but I reside in Asia thus I can't really seem to get hold of them that readily and cheap  I listen to all kinda songs btw and i'd really appreciate if i can get some input as to how i can get them tubes you mentioned. Thanks in advance!


 
  About Gold Lion you should ask from Salvatore, I personally don`t have it, only 6922EH (is this the "stock" tube you got?). Anyway, compared to 6922EH - miniwatt/dario pcc189, ultron pcc189 and philips pcc189 sound quite different. 6922EH is with very wide & airy soundstage with "lack" of bass tightness, percussion kick & mids, it`s more suited for electronic "atmospheric" music.  
  I suggest you to get cheap Philips PCC189 from the eBay link I gave earlier before proceeding to other PCC189 hunting.
  And please take time to read this thread, lots of info & impressions on tubes.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Hey *bluesdaddy* do you have any photos ready of your cigar box collection? Would love to see how you managed that.


 
  No photos yet. I currently have 8 tubes and I have four tube boxes. I lined the bottom of the box with a piece of the foam packing from the Aune box and the four without boxes are pushed down into that like yours (great idea). The others are in the boxes standing up inside the cigar box. I'm still waiting on two Voskhods from Russia and haven't gotten any freezer tape yet to label. Once I get them all and get my labeling done I will take some pics and post.


----------



## Magnum26

How portable would you say this unit is? As i'm a gamer I would like to be able to take it to LAN parties to power my Beyerdynamic DT880 Premium 250-Ohms 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Also this thread seems to have taken a turn for mainly talking about tubes (of which I have no idea about) could someone tell me what they think of the unit and which tube would be best for my headphones etc? I'm not looking to spend £100 on tubes just one will suffice, unless the standard tube is ok?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





dashie said:


> I currently have the Gold Lion E88CC/6922 plugged into my Aune T1. Can I ask how the PCC189s sound like in comparison to the gold lions & stock tube and what kinda music they are suited for?


 
   
  I don't have much experience about the PCC189 tubes, but I know how your current tubes sound so I might be able to give you some insights on what direction to take this hobby. One thing is for sure, you won't be finding any major updates from Russian tubes. Gold lion is better than rocket (and all those variables) and 6922EH (presumably your stock tube) has also its uses.
   
  Your current tubes are new production Russian tubes. This means that they were probably made in 2012 or during the recent years anyway. Like *toschek* pointed out, these new production tubes don't use the same materials that were used in those old production tubes. This is because these material are now too expensive. The old tubes were also often designed to military use so they had to meet the highest quality and durability standards. I don't know whether it's due to the materials or the production methods, but for me the new production tubes are soulless as compared to those better NOS tubes. When we talk about NOS tubes we mean that they are new old stock tubes. Basically this means that these tubes come from 50's 60's or 70's and have never been used other than in their original applications. There are lots of used NOS tubes out there which are sold as NOS. This is one of the reasons I don't want to pay too much for a single tube (especially ebay).
   
  6922EH has wide big sound stage with lots of transparency. I don't find it, however, to be very musical or engaging. The focus is slightly off and there is no proper connection with the vocals. This is the main reason why I recommend this tube for electronic or instrumental (orchestral) music. When singers are involved this is not the tube for me. Gold lion is definitely a better tube. It's more forward sounding and has better focused image. It also has the same sense of air and transparency that the 6922EH has. I'm pretty sure this is what *icecap* meant when he said gold lion to have more layers than orange globe. It's indeed very transparent and all instruments are nicely separated with lots of air between them. I want to emphasize that gold lion is good tube but just too damn expensive for what it delivers. I paid $40 for it and it's therefore one of my worst purchases price over performance wise.
   
  I advice you to try some NOS tubes from Germany (Telefunken, Siemens), Holland (Amperex) and Britain (Mullard) just to see how they compare against your Russian new production tubes.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





magnum26 said:


> How portable would you say this unit is? As i'm a gamer I would like to be able to take it to LAN parties to power my Beyerdynamic DT880 Premium 250-Ohms
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  It's actually quite portable if you don't mind packing it to the box it comes with. Especially so if you carry just one tube with you (there is very nice tube socket drilled into the plastic foam). *Joeq70* has confirmed that T1 drives DT880 250 ohm just fine (first page of this thread). Not sure how good the stock tube is for gaming, but you should start with that. If you need more bass or more focus etc. you can ask around in this thread. If you are happy how the stock tube sounds then there is no need to upgrade. If you are looking for great overall tubes then maybe Mullards or something that *coil* has will fit your needs.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> It's actually quite portable if you don't mind packing it to the box it comes with. Especially so if you carry just one tube with you (there is very nice tube socket drilled into the plastic foam). *Joeq70* has confirmed that T1 drives DT880 250 ohm just fine (first page of this thread). Not sure how good the stock tube is for gaming, but you should start with that. If you need more bass or more focus etc. you can ask around in this thread. If you are happy how the stock tube sounds then there is no need to upgrade. If you are looking for great overall tubes then maybe Mullards or something that *coil* has will fit your needs.


 
  Thanks very much, I'd rather not transport it in a massive box if I can help it, but there might be other solutions. Does anyone else carry it around every so often and if so how? Has anyone got a picture of the packaging that it comes with so I can see if it could be repackaged somehow.


----------



## MrEleventy

the aune itself is fairly light, the power source isn't. I can take pics of the box when I get to work unless someone else beats me to it.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> the aune itself is fairly light, the power source isn't. I can take pics of the box when I get to work unless someone else beats me to it.


 
  Thanks much appriciated.


----------



## Salvatore

The box is actually very compact. I've been happily using it to take my T1 to Helsinki and back.


----------



## MrEleventy

Here you go.
   

   

   
   



salvatore said:


> If your camera is still warm could you also take a photo from the inside of the box. This way *magnum* could see the separate storage sections for the power source, tube, plastic tube shields and the actual T1 itself.


----------



## Salvatore

If your camera is still warm could you also take a photo from the inside of the box. This way *magnum* could see the separate storage sections for the power source, tube, plastic tube shields and the actual T1 itself.


----------



## MrEleventy

Done.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> Here you go.


 
  Great Photos that really helps me see the size it's a lot smaller than I was expecting, thanks very much! I think this will be more than addiquit to house my T1 to take to LAN Parties etc and the foam inside should protect the tube nicely.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> If your camera is still warm could you also take a photo from the inside of the box. This way *magnum* could see the separate storage sections for the power source, tube, plastic tube shields and the actual T1 itself.


 
  Great idea thanks!


----------



## MrEleventy

If you don't pack the fencing, you can carry 2 tubes as long as you wrap it with some paper so it's fits snuggly in the fence's slot.


----------



## penmarker

Hey guys, just want to check whether anyone else is having the same issue with me.
   
  I hooked up my turntable's phono stage to the line in on the Aune and hooked up the line out to my powered speakers. I've flipped the input switch from USB to Line but my speakers aren't playing anything from line in.
   
  The line out seem to only be responding to the USB in and not the line in regardless whether I switched the input selector to the Line setting. Can anyone else replicate this?
   
  Please advise.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> If you don't pack the fencing, you can carry 2 tubes as long as you wrap it with some paper so it's fits snuggly in the fence's slot.


 
  I don't have a fence I've only got a brick wall but I don't plan on taking that with me...? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 What is fencing?
   
  1 tube will be enough otherwise I might go mad and buy a load of them!


----------



## penmarker

It seems that only the headphone out is affected by the input selector. If switched to Line, the headphone out will play from the Line In, but the speakers will play from USB in. If USB is selected, both will play from USB in.


----------



## MrEleventy

Quote: 





magnum26 said:


> I don't have a fence I've only got a brick wall but I don't plan on taking that with me...?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  The clear acrylic thing surrounding the tube is the fence. It's packed in the first circular hole. To the right of that is the tube slot. 
   
   



penmarker said:


> It seems that only the headphone out is affected by the input selector. If switched to Line, the headphone out will play from the Line In, but the speakers will play from USB in. If USB is selected, both will play from USB in.


 

   
  Yeah, the switch on top only controls the headphone out. I believe line out is dac only and line in goes straight to the amp, in which case, the only output would be headphones.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> The clear acrylic thing surrounding the tube is the fence. It's packed in the first circular hole. To the right of that is the tube slot.


 
   
  Yeah but these "shields" are B U L L crap in my opinion. They complicate rolling big time and are not ever that good looking.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Yeah but these "shields" are B U L L crap in my opinion. They complicate rolling big time and are not ever that good looking.


 
  Rolling?
   
  Why is there a fence on them anyway I prefer the look with them off or do they serve some kind of purpose?


----------



## Magnum26

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> The clear acrylic thing surrounding the tube is the fence. It's packed in the first circular hole. To the right of that is the tube slot.


 
  I wondered what the extra tube shaped hole was to the left of the tube.


----------



## MrEleventy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Yeah but these "shields" are B U L L crap in my opinion. They complicate rolling big time and are not ever that good looking.


 
   
  I agree! Mine T1 didn't even come "complete". I had 2 of the same fences so I can't even use it. Oh well. Wasn't going to anyways.


----------



## iammbox

i currently have a nuforce icon hd and want to dive into this. would it be considered a downgrade? current headphones are hd555 if that helps


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> Hey guys, just want to check whether anyone else is having the same issue with me.
> 
> I hooked up my turntable's phono stage to the line in on the Aune and hooked up the line out to my powered speakers. I've flipped the input switch from USB to Line but my speakers aren't playing anything from line in.
> 
> ...


 
   
  The line in is, well, line level.  AFAICT, you need a phone preamp between your turn table and the Aune.
   
  Just to confirm:  Can you hear headphones with your turntable connected to the line in?


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





iammbox said:


> i currently have a nuforce icon hd and want to dive into this. would it be considered a downgrade? current headphones are hd555 if that helps


 
   
  I had a Nuforce HDP and find the Aune a much better amp.  YMMV, of course.
   
  That said, I'd consider using the money to upgrade the phones instead of the amp.


----------



## iammbox

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> I had a Nuforce HDP and find the Aune a much better amp.  YMMV, of course.
> 
> That said, I'd consider using the money to upgrade the phones instead of the amp.


 
  Thanks for the input. I would upgrade headphones first but a friend offered  to buy my nuforce. I plan to get a new pair (maybe hd600/650) in the near future.  I think I will pull the trigger on these though.


----------



## HPiper

Quote: 





iammbox said:


> Thanks for the input. I would upgrade headphones first but a friend offered  to buy my nuforce. I plan to get a new pair (maybe hd600/650) in the near future.  I think I will pull the trigger on these though.


 

  Just fyi I saw a pretty nice pair of HD580's on ebay tonight in pretty good condition and cheap (so far anyway). The 580's are REAL close to the 600's in sound. Just thought I'd mention it, trying to be helpful.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





walfredo said:


> The line in is, well, line level.  AFAICT, you need a phone preamp between your turn table and the Aune.
> 
> Just to confirm:  Can you hear headphones with your turntable connected to the line in?


 
  Yes I do have a phono preamp connected to the Line in of the Aune. But I can only hear it through the headphone out and not the line out. Line out is always playing from USB in regardless of the switch.
   
  I guess this is how the Aune T1 operates then.


----------



## iammbox

one more question. 
  I know the aune t1 has RCA out and I should be able to plug my rokits into it but will I be able to control the volume of the rokits through the T1?


----------



## Salvatore

If anyone is interested, Quartz Acoustic has some new tubes in their store now. I just ordered Amperex 7308 PQ white label from there, but they also have red label tungsrams and orange globes available. This was my second purchase from their shop and I've always got very nice service from them, so this shop is definitely legit. They are new Singaporean store, have nice (but sometimes slow) website with currency converter, they ship to anywhere with only S$3 and the tubes have 2 weeks full return policy. I got my last package in less than a week and the tube was very nicely packaged (small cardboard box with bubble plastic and antistatic bag. I guess you get also the original tube box if it's available). It's a good place to check occasionally and perhaps find those nice bargains. Especially to those who live in places where the shipping could cost an arm and a leg. Oh and they sell Aune T1 as well. I think at least *mbohupa* and *icecap* have ordered their T1s from there. If you visit the website be sure to check my review of orange globe a-frame and mbohupas review of T1 
   
  E: @*magnum* tube rolling = switching tubes. I found this good reply from some old thread posted by member named *ServinginEcuador*:
   
  "_Tuberolling started with the action of removing a tube from its rather tight socket. A gentle rocking or rolling motion facilitates the removal of the tube from the socket. Due to the number of pins and sheer grip on each pin a gentle motion resembling rolling the tube in a small circle allows you to remove the tube without damaging the socket, circuit board, or tube.

 Tuberolling allows you to tweak the sound of your component to match your particular tastes. Almost any tubed item can have the sound changed rather dramatically by changing tubes to an older tube not available any more. Older Amperex, Siemens, Telefunken and many others are simply FAR superior to what is available today._"
   
  The shields are suppose to look cool and protect the tube. Just do google photo search for T1 and you see that in most photos the shields or fences (or whatever you want to call them) are in use. Most of us, however, like to constantly switch and test different tubes, so those shields are just annoying hindrance.


----------



## MrEleventy

iammbox said:


> one more question.
> I know the aune t1 has RCA out and I should be able to plug my rokits into it but will I be able to control the volume of the rokits through the T1?



no, the rca out is a line out at a set volume.


----------



## buestad

I just got my T1 yesterday and I have now conneted it to my work computer and my K550s. (I'm new to good headphones, and this is my first headphone amp)
   
  I just wonder about one thing (or really I wonder about a lot of things, but I'll start with this...): Which setting should I use for the Default Format in the setting for the playback device?
  My first instinct says: "Max It!",  but really i just play Spotify 320kb/s and CDs ripped with Apple Lossless. I can hear a slight diffenece in the sound on some songs. Using the highest setting the sound is a bit more open?


----------



## MrEleventy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> If anyone is interested, Quartz Acoustic has some new tubes in their store now. I just ordered Amperex 7308 PQ white label from there, but they also have red label tungsrams and orange globes available. This was my second purchase from their shop and I've always got very nice service from them, so this shop is definitely legit. They are new Singaporean store, have nice (but sometimes slow) website with currency converter, they ship to anywhere with only S$3 and the tubes have 2 weeks full return policy. I got my last package in less than a week and the tube was very nicely packaged (small cardboard box with bubble plastic and antistatic bag. I guess you get also the original tube box if it's available). It's a good place to check occasionally and perhaps find those nice bargains. Especially to those who live in places where the shipping could cost an arm and a leg. Oh and they sell Aune T1 as well. I think at least *mbohupa* and *icecap* have ordered their T1s from there. If you visit the website be sure to check my review of orange globe a-frame and mbohupas review of T1


 
   
  Be sure to let us know how that Amperex 7308 sounds. It's still around $70usd before shipping. The cheapest I can find any Amperex 7308 is that $50 driver grade one from joe's link. Going to pick up my amperex orange globe when I get off work today. Can't wait.  btw, is there any other tubes on the quartz that you'd recommend? The red label tungsram looks reasonable for the price.


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## Magnum26

Thanks for the info on Rolling. One thing that has puzzled me. How do you know which tubes would be good and why. What makes you pick a tube or do you just google your type of music and "tube" or something? As I've never had a tube amp before and when I get the T1 I won't know if it sounds good or not as I've nothing to compare it to...?


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## zerogun

buttnose said:


> Anyone else having problems with their T1 randomly cutting out and needing multiple resets (turned on/off) to work again? Seems like the usb connection on mine is dying.




Hey there, by chance are you using a Mac with your Aune? I used to have a problem where the T1 just wouldn't get detected when I turned it on.

I seemed to have resolved the issue by 1)replacing the stock USB cable and 2)not plugging in other USB peripherals while I'm using the Aune. I know the Aune doesn't draw power from the USB but it doesn't harm me anyway to keep the others USB ports freed up.

On another note - I got myself a Bugle Boy and since I listen to mostly house/electronic I definitely have a preference for the 6922EH the bass is tighter on the 6922EH, but equally so the bugle boy is fantastic for vocals. I do wonder how much more an improvement my ears can decipher if/whenever I plunge to buy an ECC88


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## CoiL

Finally received my second Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 today. Damn this tube is good! So tight, punchy, great soundstage and layering, transparency and instrument separation great, mids and vocals superb! Love this tube! And this one was totally unused NIB/NOS, no wearing marks on pins. This new one is coded IP9 delta7H4 (should be made 1967). Earlier tube is coded IP9 delta9F1 (should be made 1969). Boxes have "series rimlock miniature transcontinentales et americaines" written on them.
   
  Anyway, this is my overall best throw-it-to-every-genre tube. Prefer little more Amperex GAC & Ultron PCC189 for rock/metal/progressive/jazz but this Miniwatt-Dario is really overall king out of my tubes! Very very good tube ;P
   
  E: found some info from upscale audio webpage: 
   


> Miniwatt Dario was a French arm of Philips Holland, who made the amperex Bugle Boy`s.


 
  So, my Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 should be French made 
   
  Here is a link to miniwatt-dario E188CC where I got this info: http://www.upscaleaudio.com/miniwatt-dario-e188cc-7308/
 Seems that any Miniwatt-Dario tube is REALLY freaking rare! ;P


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## nykobing

If it has the delta, then it is Dutch.
  
  I have a Mazda with the Heerlen code.
   
  You also said it was a pcc189. Sure it isn't this one? http://www.nostubestore.com/2011/12/miniwatt-dario-ecc189-holland.html


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## CoiL

It might be coded with delta but it should be still made in french factory. And it is not ECC189, both have PCC189 written on them, lol. 
  The one`s I have look like this:
   
   

   
  And it`s not with dimpled getter like your link has. It`s exactly same look like Amperex bugle boy, with small O-ring getter.


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## Salvatore

Useful info here: http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
   
  And because I know that there are just too many lazy people who don't care to read this link, here I go again with the quotes (read the whole thing from the link if interested, because I left some interesting stuff out to save space):
   
  "
   
  The 6DJ8 is a twin triode in a small 9-pin miniature glass package, with a very high transconductance for each triode unit.
   
 6DJ8:  This is the standard incarnation of this tube. GE and Sylvania both made USA versions, and are fairly good quality. RCA tubes were often made by either Mullard or Amperex in Britain or Holland. The most popular NOS vintage tubes are those made by Telefunken, Amperex, Siemens or Mullard, and are usually also labelled ECC88. See the next paragraph for this description.
   
 ECC88:  This is the European designation for the 6DJ8 type tube. It is the same tube as a 6DJ8 and often the tube has both type numbers on it. The popular vintage tubes here are those by Telefunken, Amperex, or Mullard. The Telefunken are said to sound the best, and are the most difficult to find of all of these brands. All Telefunken tubes have a tiny diamond shape molded into the glass on the bottom, and have a very chalky ink on the surface which often is partially wiped off. Beware! These tubes are being reproduced in China, and look like the real thing, complete with diamond mark. The tipoff is the label: the fake labels will not wipe off.
   
  The Amperex can be found with a white label and the treble clef logo (rare), the Bugle Boy cartoon tube logo, Amperex in white ink, and the orange world logo. The orange world logo is the newest, and can be found in both standard "L" bracket top getter, and the rarer (and said to sound better) "A" frame top getter. The A-frame looks like a little metal "A" holding up the getter element on the top of the tube internal structure. The Bugle Boy is the most popular, almost to being a "designer" label, which has driven the price up and supplies down. I believe any of the Amperex / Philips Holland 1960s and 1970s 6DJ8 tubes are excellent, no matter which one you use. Mullard 6DJ8 tubes are excellent as well, but are more difficult to find. They often made 6DJ8 tubes for other labels, like RCA, Zenith, and other USA brands.
   
 6922:  This is one of two premium versions of the 6DJ8 tube. First of all, it is the same tube as the 6DJ8, and will work wherever a 6DJ8 is needed. It has premium features such as low noise, low microphonics, and usually a longer lifespan. Sylvania made a version that is JAN military spec without gold pins. Amperex made all of theirs with gold plated pins and most have the PQ shield logo, standing for Premium Quality. Some of the later gold pin Amperex have the orange world logo.
   
  Philips (the parent company of Amperex) owned a number of tube brands, and many were never seen outside of Europe. Most were actually made in the same Heerlen, Holland factory that turned out the Bugle boy 6DJ8 and PQ 6922 Amperex. Watch for tubes labeled E88CC with brands like Valvo, R/T, RTC, Miniwatt, Dario, Philips, and Adzam. These tubes are identical to the Amperex PQ and Philips SQ (Special Quality) types more often found in America, and are perfect if the Amperex is not available.
   
  RCA 6922 tubes were made by Siemens in Germany, and also have gold pins. These are great tubes, but are not as plentiful. Since the military and some large industries (Tektronix) bought the Amperex made tubes in huge batches, that is what is on the surplus market today.
   
 E88CC and E88CC/01:  This is the European equivalent to the 6922, and is a quality step up from the standard 6DJ8 or 7DJ8. Telefunken made a fantastic version of this tube, complete with gold pins.
   
 CV2493:  A rare military version of the E88CC/01. Some have both types on the label, some only the CV2493. This can be considered the British or Dutch version of the German Cca. Very low noise, carefully matched triodes, and these are batch tested to meet military specs. Usually only available in the Mullard brand.
   
 CV2492:  This is a European military (usually British) version of the 6922 / E88CC type vacuum tube. Unlike the US military version, these tubes were never made in the USA. Most of the older examples were made in either the Mullard Mitcham, UK factory, or the Philips/Amperex Heerlen, Holland factory. These are fine tubes that have passed various demanding military specification tests regarding ruggedness, heat and shock resistence, and heater life.
   
 E188CC:  A bit rarer than the E88CC, the E188CC is usually found labelled as such by Siemens or Telefunken. Amperex and other makers (Sylvania for example) used the industrial 7308 marking, Amperex Holland and France used the E188CC label. It is basically the European equivalent to the 7308. The E188CC has gold pins, and is near the top of the 6DJ8 food chain.
   
  The Siemens version from the 1960s is quite rare, and is rated by many audiophiles as a jewel on par with the best Cca tubes, or the cryo-treated 7308s. It has low noise to the vanishing point, and a wonderful, airy top end and soundstage.
   
 7308:  This is probably the ultra 6DJ8 type tube commonly available. It has all of the features of the 6922, but the triode sections are also matched to each other, and the tubes all fit within very tight specifications. Therefore, any 7308 should match any other 7308 within the same brand. The Amperex versions were again made in New York, complete with gold pins, and often have a number etched into the side of the glass. Amperex made these for industry as well as the military. The Amperex versions have the PQ label, the military type usually is labeled "USN-CEP", but I have seen versions made for Stromberg-Carlson and Hewlett-Packard, with white ink labels. These all had the numbers etched into the glass, and all are the same tube. The USA made military white label types have been rated "Best of All", over other 7308, 6922 and even Cca tubes, in several well-documented 6922/7308/Cca listening tests. Therefore this particular type is becoming scarce and prices are rising. There were a few of these made in Holland, but most were made in the USA, therefore the Holland tubes are RARE and usually command a higher price. The Holland PQ versions have the PQ with stars on either side of the letters, and the words "Premium Quality", where the USA types have the PQ inside of a shield logo.
   
  Again, there are some nice vintage USA made standard pin military and industrial types available from Raytheon and Sylvania, just to name a few, and these are quite good at a price currently far below the European vintage labels.
   
 E288CC:  This unusual tube is basically a 7308 / E188CC in a slightly taller bottle. The filament current draw is also slightly higher but for most applications it is plug and play compatible with the 6922, 7308, Cca, or even the 6DJ8. Physical space is a consideration, since the tube is about one-half inch taller than the rest of the tubes on this page. It features gold pins, factory screened triodes for low noise, 10,000 heater life, and all the other great features that make the 7308 and the Cca such high-demand tubes. Since it is a relative unknown, the prices are about the same as good 6922 tubes, and far below that of most 7308 or Cca types! I have only seen this tube in Valvo, Telefunken, or Siemens brands. Worth giving a try if you want the best but cannot afford the soaring costs of NOS 7308 or Cca tubes.
   
 Cca:  Whew, these babies are so scarce there isn't even much info out there about them! Mentioned by audiophiles, usually in a reverent whisper, these gold pinned gems are about as good is it gets in 6DJ8-land. Matched triode sections, low noise screening, 10,000 hr. heater life expectancy, carefully controlled frame grid winding, low microphonics......the list goes on and on. This is regarded as one of the most detailed and three-dimensional sounding tube ever made in this family of tubes. Most of what is available is Siemens or Telefunken made, although there are a few very rare examples of Philips or Amperex Holland made out there.
   
 6H23:  This is a Russian made equivalent to the 6922 or E88CC, but will work in place of any 7308 or 6DJ8 type as well. Ordinarily the Russian tubes are just not of a high enough quality to go head-to-head with NOS German, Dutch, or UK tubes. These are a possible exception. The so-called "rocket logo" type from the 1970s and early 1980s seems to hold it's own against NOS tubes costing 3-4 times as much. These NOS Russian rockets have been critically acclaimed in several online discussion boards for their detail and smoothness. At current prices, these are about one-third to one-fourth the cost of NOS Western Europe types, and so their value is enhanced even more.
   
 7DJ8 / PCC88:  This is an unusual tube that must have had a limited range of specific uses. It is virtually identical to the 6DJ8 except for the heater rating, which is 7 volts. You may want to try a 7DJ8 for the longer heater life in a 6.3 volt circuit, and the lower price!
   
   
*TELEFUNKEN, SIEMENS, VALVO, LORENZ, and other German made NOS:* These tubes are usually characterized by an impressive open "air" at the top end. The soundstage is large, even in mono applications these tubes have a great 3-D image. The midrange is ruler flat, and the bass is tight and accurate. These tubes have a fine sense of dynamics, and most are impressively quiet. These are not "warm" tubes, and to some ears their lack of midrange warmth may be heard as bright. I tend to think of them as accurate, and their clean, focused sonic image is astonishing.
   
*AMPEREX, PHILIPS, MAZDA and other Holland/France/Belgium made NOS:* These tubes are a great balance of a clean, airy top end, nice midrange warmth, and accurate bass. They are very pleasant, clean, and musical to listen to in hi-fi applications. The white label Amperex PQ type or USN-CEP (same tube, the USN was made for the military) made in the USA are considered one of the best 7308 or 6922 types of all ever made. The D-getter and pinch waist rare types are also highly regarded, and are very quiet as well. The orange label types run a close second.
   
*MULLARD, GENALEX, BRIMAR, and other British made NOS: * Like a warm British jacket of the finest tweed, these glorious tubes have an attractive sweet warmth in their midrange and lower regions. The top end is silky and pleasant, without being rolled-off. The best of these tubes retain a fine sense of "air" at the top, and the upper midrange is smooth and liquid. These tubes reproduce the human voice, especially female voices, with haunting realism. The 1970s Mullard made have an attractive sparkle at the top with the rich bass, and these tubes are usually priced less than the older types.
   
*RCA, RAYTHEON, GE, SYLVANIA, and other USA made NOS: * This group is very diverse. The older RCA, GE, and some other brands of 6922, 7308, and 6DJ8 were often made by Siemens, Mullard, or Amperex, and usually are a bargain. The USA made 1960s vintage 6922 and 7308 are nearly always made for the military, although there were some early industrial versions made by Westinghouse and other brands. They are fairly good and usually priced very low. Their sonics are reasonably well balanced. The 6DJ8 tubes made in the USA, and the 6922 or 7308 USA tubes made AFTER 1975 are generally best used in test equipment that calls for them, as they are not particularly attractive audio tubes. The earlier 1960s versions are somewhat better, including the greyglass GE. Their prices are usually very low, putting them on par with the Russian or Chinese types. You may want to try them if on a strict budget, for they will surely outlast several sets of current production tubes, and probably still sound better than the Russian-Chinese trash. Overall, the USA made tubes are a nice surprise with their low prices as compared to the European types.


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## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> *AMPEREX, PHILIPS, MAZDA and other Holland/France/Belgium made NOS:* These tubes are a great balance of a clean, airy top end, nice midrange warmth, and accurate bass. They are very pleasant, clean, and musical to listen to in hi-fi applications.


 
  Honestly, don`t really know if my Dario is made in France, Belgium, Holland (or even USA?)... but this description also goes for my Miniwatt-Dario PCC189. As far as I have gone with my research about this tube, most likely it`s still France made. Anyway, great tube!


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## MrEleventy

Just rolled in my Amperex orange globe and wooow. Definitely helps with the mids on the DT880s. Pushes them forward and warms them up a bit. Definitely better than the 2 Russians that I have. Going to let them burn in a bit more but I'm definitely liking it a lot. Now I want back ups... lol


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## CoiL

Hopefully will get A-frame Amperex Orange from Salvatore, so I could compare it with GAC coded single leg dimple orange 
   
  Btw, had more listen to my Brimar ECC88 (with "cup"-getter design) and it`s nothing special, actually even 6N23P sounds better. I don`t know... seems just that brimar tubes won`t "fit" for Aune T1, at least those 2 different brimars I have.


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## walfredo

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I guess so.  I haven't tried it and did not know.  I suppose it makes some sense as the line out is not volume controlled.  Anyhow, it is kinda of annoying, as you have to plug and unplug if you want your line in to go elsewhere.


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## walfredo

Quote: 





iammbox said:


> one more question.
> I know the aune t1 has RCA out and I should be able to plug my rokits into it but will I be able to control the volume of the rokits through the T1?


 
   
  Nope.  The line out is fixed volume.


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## walfredo

So, I got the GE tube.  First impressions are excellent.  It *very* smooth and relax, with great dynamics.  Vocals are superb.
   
  I'm traveling tomorrow, but when I get back, I'll do a detail comparison against my Amperex.


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## CoiL

I`ve been burining in my Ultron PCC189 quite a while now and after listening following music...
  
 TOOL - Lateralus FLAC
 TOOL - 10000 Days FLAC
 Karnivool - Sound Awake FLAC
 Dead Letter Circus - This is The Warning FLAC
 Tesseract - One 320kbps
  
 ...and switching between Amperex GAC, I´ve come to conclusion that Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8 (DJF V3B, Bharat India, gold label) is better for rock/metal/progressive music.
 Ultron SQ PCC189 has tighter, punchier and more accurate bass/percussion, more transparent and better layered soundstage with littlebit more air, better instrument separation. Mids and vocals are also great!  I`m thinking stocking up on Ultron SQ PCC189 rather than chasing any more tubes. JJ E88CC + Amperex A-frame orange will be my last two "new" tubes. After that I`m done, period. < update about strikeout - I have now GA8, GAE and GAG coded A-frame Amperex Heerlen tubes and GAC is still better than those. Probably not going to get JJ E88CC because there are much more cheaper and intresting tubes to explore 
  
 Update:
 Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 (Heerlen, yellow "shield" logo, note- I have 2 of those with different codes and they sound different, will add better tube code later) and Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 (Chartres France, yellow "shield" logo, note - I have 5 of those and they sound same) and Siemens PCC189 (IP1 B7C3, Blackburn, note - this is my only siemens that seems to be made actually by Mullard Blackburn england according to code) - those 3 are still my best overall tubes for every genre... 
  
 JAN Sylvania 6922 (for vocal filled electronic) and Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 (tightest & low bass out of my tubes) for electronic music.
  
 rock/metal/progressive/jazz - Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8 (DJF V3B, Bharat India, gold label) or Amperex 6DJ8 (GAC ⊿9F3, single support leg dimpled disc getter, orange globe logo) or Siemens PCC88/7DJ8 (‡2J).
  
 Best bang-for-a-buck tube for those who have thin wallets and don`t want to spend time on rolling cheaper tubes - Philips PCC189 Heerlen is way to go imo: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/1410#post_9323568


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## BluesDaddy

I run mine at the 24/96k setting.
  Quote: 





buestad said:


> I just got my T1 yesterday and I have now conneted it to my work computer and my K550s. (I'm new to good headphones, and this is my first headphone amp)
> 
> I just wonder about one thing (or really I wonder about a lot of things, but I'll start with this...): Which setting should I use for the Default Format in the setting for the playback device?
> My first instinct says: "Max It!",  but really i just play Spotify 320kb/s and CDs ripped with Apple Lossless. I can hear a slight diffenece in the sound on some songs. Using the highest setting the sound is a bit more open?


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## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Hopefully will get A-frame Amperex Orange from Salvatore, so I could compare it with GAC coded single leg dimple orange
> 
> Btw, had more listen to my Brimar ECC88 (with "cup"-getter design) and it`s nothing special, actually even 6N23P sounds better. I don`t know... seems just that brimar tubes won`t "fit" for Aune T1, at least those 2 different brimars I have.


 
  I have both and the A-frame is no where near the GAC, IMO. The Mullard I have is the only thing that touches, or betters, it. I prefer whichever of those I happen to be listening to at the moment.  I haven't gotten my Ultron yet, so that will be a fun comparison.
   
  On a side note, my Voskhods finally made it to my house yesterday BUT....require a signature and so are sitting at the local USPS office. I will have to get there tomorrow to pick them up. So, from the placing of my order on 2/23 to arrival on 3/28 - 33 days. And the VAST majority of that was inside Russia. Have I mentioned that I will never order from Russia again?


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## CoiL

BluesDaddy, can you tell in detail whats the difference between GAC and A-Frame? Glad I have GAC already.
  About Ultron, since you said that Mullard ECC88 & GAC are your favs, then it should not disappoint you I belive. But you`ll hear it soon.


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## Salvatore

The A-frame bluesdaddy has is not comparable since it's made in Britain. I'm pretty sure the Dutch GAC and A-frame are identical. So who ever is looking for those A-frames be sure to check both the color and the text of the logo. You should be looking for orange print and made in Holland text.
   

   
  In this example photo the first two tubes are the "good stuff" and the third one is that inferior British made Amperex.


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## Sorrodje

I have an amperex orange label "PQ" 6922 but it seems rare ? Anybody else has one of these ?


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## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> The A-frame bluesdaddy has is not comparable since it's made in Britain. I'm pretty sure the Dutch GAC and A-frame are identical. So who ever is looking for those A-frames be sure to check both the color and the text of the logo. You should be looking for orange print and made in Holland text.
> 
> 
> 
> In this example photo the first two tubes are the "good stuff" and the third one is that inferior British made Amperex.


 
  Thanks for clearing that out! Just to be sure, A-frame I´m going to buy from you is Dutch?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Thanks for clearing that out! Just to be sure, A-frame I´m going to buy from you is Dutch?


 

 Yes. At least he sold them as Holland Amperex (100% seller with 7500+ feedbacks). It was this listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amperex-Holland-A-Frame-6DJ8-ECC88-dimpled-disc-getter-strong-matched-quad-/160992730854?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=%252B%252B%252BJ9Pq7QFeWIWEWSYMh9%252FHj5Uk%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
   
  The prints are almost gone but there are small fractions of the prints visible. If the seller includes the test results I can send you the one with the best results + prints visible. If I notice them to be something else than stated in the item listing, I'm going to be furious to the seller of course. I'll also immediately check that they all sound the same = great. Don't worry I won't be sending ****ty tubes to you. If I'm not satisfied with them personally I'll contact the seller to resolve the issue.
   
  E: *bluesdaddy* what factory codes does your A-frame carry?


----------



## penmarker

I wonder, when these vacuum tubes were manufactured, were they originally intended for hifi music equipment?


----------



## CoiL

Since it`s hard to google for you, let me enlighten you: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_tube#History_and_development
   
  Btw, after having listen with Ultron PCC189 & Amperex GAC for longer period, switched to Mullard ECC88 and it "sucks" compared to GAC & Ultron. Salvatore, I think I will order 2 or 3 Ultrons instead JJ. I`m still going to buy A-frame orange from you.


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## Salvatore

Probably wise. Especially since those ultrons are dirt cheap. It's nice that you can take one of those A-frames. I really only need like 2-3 spares, but got mad for losing so many auctions and got the quad


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## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> BluesDaddy, can you tell in detail whats the difference between GAC and A-Frame? Glad I have GAC already.
> About Ultron, since you said that Mullard ECC88 & GAC are your favs, then it should not disappoint you I belive. But you`ll hear it soon.


 
  It's hard to describe, but the A frame just doesn't have the "body" that the other two have. While it is very detailed and sounds quite nice, the mids aren't as forward as the GAC or Mullard. After listening to either of those, the A frame just sounds a bit lifeless. Still, when compared to the other lesser tubes, it sounds pretty good.  As always, YMMV.  Looking forward to getting the Ultron. It should complete my collection - unless something dirt chirp comes up as a "giant killer".  I want to spend some money on a new cartridge for the Technics sl-1200 MK2 I just got!!


----------



## BluesDaddy

This is a very good point.  Mine should be made in one of the Mullard plants. The dutch tubes do seem to be, on the whole, better in the mids.
  Quote: 





salvatore said:


> The A-frame bluesdaddy has is not comparable since it's made in Britain. I'm pretty sure the Dutch GAC and A-frame are identical. So who ever is looking for those A-frames be sure to check both the color and the text of the logo. You should be looking for orange print and made in Holland text.
> 
> 
> 
> In this example photo the first two tubes are the "good stuff" and the third one is that inferior British made Amperex.


----------



## BluesDaddy

I did get down to the PO this morning and pick up my package from Russia. While I did get two tubes, I have no idea whether I got ripped off or not as there are absolutely NO markings on either tube.  These were supposed to be 6N3Ps, rocket logo Voskhods but who knows?  However, I am listening to one now and after only five minutes playing Bill Evans it sounds pretty good. A nice, lively tube.


----------



## CoiL

Quote:  





> Looking forward to getting the Ultron. It should complete my collection - unless something dirt chirp comes up as a "giant killer".


 
  Belive it or not, at least for me, Ultron PCC189 seems to be dirt cheap "giant killer" ;P


----------



## muaysteve

So I have been drooling over this T1 amp since christmas and I was just about to pull the trigger.  But I just hit a snag: I just figured out that if I run my ipod to the amp via the line out I won't actually be using the tube part of the amp?
   
  What  is it that all you guys are running to your T1's?  Don't most things like CD players etc plug into the RCA jacks and not the USB port on the T1? (excuse my noobishness)
   
  Is there any know way to hook my iod up to the usb jack on the T1 so I would be using the tube?
   
  Thanks
   
  Steve


----------



## MrEleventy

muaysteve said:


> So I have been drooling over this T1 amp since christmas and I was just about to pull the trigger.  But I just hit a snag: I just figured out that if I run my ipod to the amp via the line out I won't actually be using the tube part of the amp?
> 
> What  is it that all you guys are running to your T1's?  Don't most things like CD players etc plug into the RCA jacks and not the USB port on the T1? (excuse my noobishness)
> 
> ...



It's a tubeDAC + ss amp. Not a tube amp. very different things. we run it via usb. if you want just an amp, might I suggest the bravo or project sunrise. I think it's in the same price range.


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## CoiL

Little side note, JAN Sylvania 6922 + Stubborn Heart ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Wy0uBUmQVA ) = freaking eargasm! ;P
  And with this song - https://soundcloud.com/jameszabiela/james-zabiela-the-healing-born - I`m just floating in the air ;P


----------



## debuchan

Has anyone ordered from this site? I did not see this site mentioned and the prices seem almost too good, but they do not have many photos available.
   
  Should I trust my inner Admiral Ackbar or is this a good deal?


----------



## CoiL

You have to order at least for 50€ + posting is about 20€.


----------



## debuchan

Thanks.
   
  Too bad, I just wanted 1.50€ tubes... I don't think I want to spend 50€ + another 20 just for that... =/


----------



## uncola

Is there any downside to leaving the amp on all day and only turning it off when I sleep/leave the house? 
also if anyone else is impatiently waiting for their t1 to ship from china, I found the gain settings on another site.. it has 0, 10 and 16 db gain settings.. I guess with my 50 and 12 ohm headphones I'd just set it on 0.. I'm plugged directly into a hifimediy sabre dac and there's no headroom for the volume.. I use it at like 80% in windows so I can't wait for the t1 to arrive

my headphones are sennheiser hd595 50ohm 112db sensitivity and sony mdr-ma900 12ohm 104 dB/mW


----------



## MrEleventy

it's just a ss amp if you don't plug in via usb. it's a tube DAC. Not tube amp. Misread. lol You burn out the tube if you leave it on.



uncola said:


> Is there any downside to leaving the amp on all day and only turning it off when I sleep/leave the house?
> also if anyone else is impatiently waiting for their t1 to ship from china, I found the gain settings on another site.. it has 0, 10 and 16 db gain settings.. I guess with my 50 and 12 ohm headphones I'd just set it on 0.. I'm plugged directly into a hifimediy sabre dac and there's no headroom for the volume.. I use it at like 80% in windows so I can't wait for the t1 to arrive
> 
> my headphones are sennheiser hd595 50ohm 112db sensitivity and sony mdr-ma900 12ohm 104 dB/mW


----------



## uncola

Does the dac still function if you don't have a tube plugged in? Never had a tube anything before so this is new to me


----------



## MrEleventy

uncola said:


> Does the dac still function if you don't have a tube plugged in? Never had a tube anything before so this is new to me




Nope. Doesn't work without a tube. The computer will still detect it but nothing will output when you hit play


----------



## toschek

^^ No the DAC will not work, but the line in part will because it doesn't go through the tube.


----------



## CoiL

DAC should still work if RCA line-in is used instead USB. Tube is only a extra buffer after DAC and used only when using USB input.
  Haven`t tried it myself but will do it when I reach home after work.


----------



## toschek

^^ Believe me, it works. 

It was a huge bummer when I found that out and definitely spurred a round of upgradeitis that eventually lead to a $3500 amp. Upgradeitis is a serious disease with costly treatments and no known cure. It isn't covered by ANY of the major insurance companies either, leading to huge out-of-pocket costs for the victim as well.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





toschek said:


> ^^ Believe me, it works.
> 
> It was a huge bummer when I found that out and definitely spurred a round of upgradeitis that eventually lead to a $3500 amp. Upgradeitis is a serious disease with costly treatments and no known cure. It isn't covered by ANY of the major insurance companies either, leading to huge out-of-pocket costs for the victim as well.


 
  Dang, that's about the worse case I've ever seen going from a $160 DAC/Headphone amp to a $3500 amp - 2,100 % increase.


----------



## zerogun

hey guys, I know there's a lot of 'play' room with swapping out tubes and such, but what's the next step beyond or in addition to the Aune T1 in your opinion? I would love to hear your views on what your plans are, since the bug to go the next step is starting to kick in for me, I'd like to hear some chatter on this step forward


----------



## CoiL

Depends, do you prefer tube sound or transistor? For me it`s all the way tube and don`t want anything more than Aune T1 offers


----------



## zerogun

coil said:


> Depends, do you prefer tube sound or transistor? For me it`s all the way tube and don`t want anything more than Aune T1 offers




I couldn't really say as I've not tried a solid state version, but seeing that the T1 is a hybrid of sorts, is there any possibility of adding another component to the line for improved sound? Or is it at this point an issue of upgrading the speakers/headphones to run with the T1?


----------



## uncola

I dunno about you guys, but if I ever upgrade from the t1, I'd want a desktop amp in a big sturdy form factor, something stackable almost like a receiver that has a built in power supply. Something that looks like the tubemagic d1 plus, but maybe has higher performance http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/d1p


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





uncola said:


> I dunno about you guys, but if I ever upgrade from the t1, I'd want a desktop amp in a big sturdy form factor, something stackable almost like a receiver that has a built in power supply. Something that looks like the tubemagic d1 plus, but maybe has higher performance http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/d1p


 
   
   
  Quote: 





zerogun said:


> hey guys, I know there's a lot of 'play' room with swapping out tubes and such, but what's the next step beyond or in addition to the Aune T1 in your opinion? I would love to hear your views on what your plans are, since the bug to go the next step is starting to kick in for me, I'd like to hear some chatter on this step forward


 
   
  I went from the T1 to the Schiit Lyr and from the Schiit Lyr to the Cary SLI-80 Sig.   They all use 6dj8/6922 tubes in some fashion so I did not lose my tube investment.   A lot of the other desktop amps use the 12AX7/12AU7 or super exotic tubes, like the Woo WA7 that uses a 6C45 which has about three reasonably priced current options and two NOS options that are $500/pair and $2,000 - $3,000/pair.   Woo Audio stuff is awesome though, and I mean no disrespect at all to them, but if you are a tube roller, this amp probably is not for you.
   
  I like the Lyr as a midrange option because it's powerful enough to drive any headphone, can act as a preamp, retains your tube investment -and- you can sell it when you upgrade for not too bad a loss.  Their somewhat lower priced Valhalla model is also an option that uses 6922/6dj8 tubes (*ONLY*if you buy a current one, the first gen did not allow tube rolling) but it cannot be used as a preamp, so caveat emptor.
   
  Another one to look at is the Decware CSP2+ if you can swing it (they sometimes come up on Audiogon, not too often though).  It also uses the 6dj8/6922 tubes.  Decware's stuff is a cut above, and Steve allows you to configure the case you like it.   This amp is great for everything, true OTL and an amazing sound.
   
  There is also a whole series of stuff from Little Dot that you guys might want to look into as well.   I do not know a lot about their products, but they are well respected in the Head-Fi community.
   
  This is aside from many many other options, I am just thinking off the top of my head of amps where you can use all the tubes you've collected so far.
   
  Good luck.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Dang, that's about the worse case I've ever seen going from a $160 DAC/Headphone amp to a $3500 amp - 2,100 % increase.


 
   
  Well, there was more to it than that,. I wanted to be able to run speakers, have multiple inputs, a remote, subwoofer out, point to point wiring, the list goes on and on.   You want those features you have to pay for them.   I bought it off Audiogon though, so I paid nowhere near full price (like 1/2 that).   It is lovely amp and sounds like I am sitting in the 3rd row of a show when I listen through headphones & speakers.   The most wide, deep soundstage I have ever heard and it is smoother than the Jameson's 25 with Jazz.


----------



## MrEleventy

I found that I actually like my DT990s now when I'm running them through T1 + Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globe Dimple Getter. It balances out the mids with the highs & lows. I can listen w/o eqing the mess out of them unlike the 6922EH. Now I'm not sure if I want to sell the 990s anymore...


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





zerogun said:


> hey guys, I know there's a lot of 'play' room with swapping out tubes and such, but what's the next step beyond or in addition to the Aune T1 in your opinion? I would love to hear your views on what your plans are, since the bug to go the next step is starting to kick in for me, I'd like to hear some chatter on this step forward


 
  I agree it depends on the way you want to go.  I'm not feeling any need to upgrade around my headphone - and have only had the T1 for a month or so, so I'm still getting acquainted with the sound of the various tubes I have. But I did pick up a used Technics SL-1200 turntable to replace my 35 year old Technics SL-2000 (bottom of the line DD manual that I bought new when I was 21). That is already sucking down cash - LED mod all the way around, another headshell and 45 adapter (didn't have one), a new cartridge (Denon DL-301), and I'll need a dustcover AND, of course, a new phono stage (using a TCC cheapo for now). Thought I was going to get a Yaqin phono stage but reading all the issues about 'em on Audio Karma and DIYAudio I decided to pass. I wouldn't mind a Pro-ject Phono Tube Box S, but that is a bit more money then I'm prepared to spend at the moment.  Then, of course, there is the continued acquisition of music - CDs and vinyl - the whole point of this hobby!!


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> I found that I actually like my DT990s now when I'm running them through T1 + Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globe Dimple Getter. It balances out the mids with the highs & lows. I can listen w/o eqing the mess out of them unlike the 6922EH. Now I'm not sure if I want to sell the 990s anymore...


 
  DT990 should be very good cans and its great you don`t have to sell them. Pairing amp/dac with cans is actually pain in the ass, luckily my modded HD-681 mkII is also very good match with Aune T1, I also enjoy Amperex orange GAC very much with them. For me, HD-681 mkII + Aune T1 is ultimate bang-for-a-buck!
  Btw, if you get your hands on Ultron PCC189 then certainly try this tube with DT990.
   
   


zerogun said:


> I couldn't really say as I've not tried a solid state version, but seeing that the T1 is a hybrid of sorts, is there any possibility of adding another component to the line for improved sound? Or is it at this point an issue of upgrading the speakers/headphones to run with the T1?


 
  You can use Aune T1 only as solid state DAC too, just use RCA line-in, it excludes tube from audio chain. But for me, Aune T1 loses it`s "magic" then.
  If you want to improve Aune T1 sound, tube rolling is one way to go (most of best tubes for aune t1 have been sorted out in this thread already), to find good match for your music and cans.
  But maybe it can be also cans mismatch, but unlikely, most well known cans seem to fit great with Aune T1.


----------



## MrEleventy

Quote: 





coil said:


> DT990 should be very good cans and its great you don`t have to sell them. Pairing amp/dac with cans is actually pain in the ass, luckily my modded HD-681 mkII is also very good match with Aune T1, I also enjoy Amperex orange GAC very much with them. For me, HD-681 mkII + Aune T1 is ultimate bang-for-a-buck!
> Btw, if you get your hands on Ultron PCC189 then certainly try this tube with DT990.


 
   
  The bass is still out of this world buuut. It is actually tamed down. It's also less sibilant. I still prefer the DT880s and they pair extremely peeeeerfectly with T1 + amperex orange. I'm still surprised by the huge amount of bass that I get from the DT990s since they're fricking open. I'd hate to see how they perform if someone mods them to closed... 
   
  I think I'm still going to end up selling the DT990s and the Objective2 so I can get a Lake People G103.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> The bass is still out of this world buuut.


 
  What do you mean by that? Its too loose and lacks of tightness? Damn I wish PCC189 was more available to everybody, I think it would fit perfectly for DT990. But since you have DT880 and it`s perfect fit for your ears, then yes, probably wise to sell DT990.


----------



## MrEleventy

It's tight and fast but there's a LOT of it. impact is crazy on them. they're great when I'm in the mood for trance and techno but they're overbearing for rock. Allman bros shouldn't have a daft punk bass stack.


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





coil said:


> DT990 should be very good cans and its great you don`t have to sell them. Pairing amp/dac with cans is actually pain in the ass, luckily my modded HD-681 mkII is also very good match with Aune T1, I also enjoy Amperex orange GAC very much with them. For me, HD-681 mkII + Aune T1 is ultimate bang-for-a-buck!
> Btw, if you get your hands on Ultron PCC189 then certainly try this tube with DT990.
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  I totally understand what you're saying, and my listening habits have already been discussed in this thread extensively and I've picked up another tube based on the comments of your awesome test efforts. This is what lead me to the "what's next?" question. I definitely could get better cans or better speakers, but it seems to me now that if I were to say upgrade, I'd have to replace the Aune entirely and go for a amp & dac stack. The interesting part of the T1 definitely is it's ability to swap tubes out for customizing the sound to your needs, but being a combo unit in such a small package there are definitely sacrifices made in the design process.
   
  I'm aesthetic freak & a learning hobbyist, so I'm actually leaning towards exploring the Schiit Modi & Magni combo that has been reviewed on another thread, but I'll have to read more really to get a better feel to see how well it'll power some desktop speakers too. Errr this never ending quest to better the sound is scary haha thanks again guys


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> You can use Aune T1 only as solid state DAC too, just use RCA line-in, it excludes tube from audio chain. But for me, Aune T1 loses it`s "magic" then.
> If you want to improve Aune T1 sound, tube rolling is one way to go (most of best tubes for aune t1 have been sorted out in this thread already), to find good match for your music and cans.
> But maybe it can be also cans mismatch, but unlikely, most well known cans seem to fit great with Aune T1.


 
  Unless I'm seriously mistaken, using the line in means you're using it only as a headphone amp and NOT a DAC. The DAC takes a digital source (i.e. via the USB connection) and turns it into analog (the line out and/or headphone out). Line in bypasses the DAC (it's already analog) and just amplifies the signal, either for the line out as a "pre-amp", or for the headphone jack.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





zerogun said:


> I'm aesthetic freak & a learning hobbyist, so I'm actually leaning towards exploring the Schiit Modi & Magni combo that has been reviewed on another thread, but I'll have to read more really to get a better feel to see how well it'll power some desktop speakers too. Errr this never ending quest to better the sound is scary haha thanks again guys


 
  Not sure whether it is still used or not, but used to be when someone joined Head-Fi they used to be welcomed with the phrase "welcome to Head-Fi and hang on to your wallet" or something to the same effect (e.g. "sorry about your wallet"). It still holds true in any case.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Unless I'm seriously mistaken, using the line in means you're using it only as a headphone amp and NOT a DAC. The DAC takes a digital source (i.e. via the USB connection) and turns it into analog (the line out and/or headphone out). Line in bypasses the DAC (it's already analog) and just amplifies the signal, either for the line out as a "pre-amp", or for the headphone jack.


 
  Yeah, you are probably right, it should use only amp part when using rca line-in. My mistake.


----------



## toschek

Quote: 





zerogun said:


> I totally understand what you're saying, and my listening habits have already been discussed in this thread extensively and I've picked up another tube based on the comments of your awesome test efforts. This is what lead me to the "what's next?" question. I definitely could get better cans or better speakers, but it seems to me now that if I were to say upgrade, I'd have to replace the Aune entirely and go for a amp & dac stack. The interesting part of the T1 definitely is it's ability to swap tubes out for customizing the sound to your needs, but being a combo unit in such a small package there are definitely sacrifices made in the design process.
> 
> I'm aesthetic freak & a learning hobbyist, so I'm actually leaning towards exploring the Schiit Modi & Magni combo that has been reviewed on another thread, but I'll have to read more really to get a better feel to see how well it'll power some desktop speakers too. Errr this never ending quest to better the sound is scary haha thanks again guys


 
   
  Magni/Modi =/= upgrade, it is a lateral move at best and debatably worse than the T1 in terms of SQ.  Separates may be better at some point in your future, but the M/M stack is not where you should start.  
   
  Also, M/M stack will not power speakers.  You will need powered speakers like the ones from Audioengine or something like the Emotiva a100 plus speakers.


----------



## penmarker

I'm in the office and I don't know why I'm frowning. I have my headphones on my head plugged into the computer, streaming some Beck and Daft Punk off youtube. Called up on my colleague to try and listen if something is wrong.
  "Sounds okay. Why?" Never mind.
   
  I'm spoiled, this music didn't feel good and my body was trying to tell me something is wrong. Don't know that's a good thing or a bad thing.
  I need to bring my T1 and my hard disk + music files.


----------



## Bigsy

So I got one of these today as I needed a dac for the office etc, so far I'm not totally blown away I have to say. I mean it doesn't sound bad, maybe this thread just got me a little too hyped.

I don't have all my decent equipment here at the moment to give it a good listen and compare but I do have a Zero dac and I certainly wouldn't say the T1 is any better.

I didn't really try the original value (had a ECC88 Mullard kicking around) but will and need to let things bed in before passing judgement. Also I only have dt770 pro80's and ultrasone 780's here to try which are both bass heavy so not ideal.


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





toschek said:


> Magni/Modi =/= upgrade, it is a lateral move at best and debatably worse than the T1 in terms of SQ.  Separates may be better at some point in your future, but the M/M stack is not where you should start.
> 
> Also, M/M stack will not power speakers.  You will need powered speakers like the ones from Audioengine or something like the Emotiva a100 plus speakers.


 
   
  whoa, that definitely saved me some reading! I'm running Creative T40's right now so I think they're powered, although the M&M switch if it is a lateral move at best would be an utterly waste of money then I'd definitely be happier sticking with the T1! Thanks for the heads up toschek!


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





bigsy said:


> So I got one of these today as I needed a dac for the office etc, so far I'm not totally blown away I have to say. I mean it doesn't sound bad, maybe this thread just got me a little too hyped.
> 
> I don't have all my decent equipment here at the moment to give it a good listen and compare but I do have a Zero dac and I certainly wouldn't say the T1 is any better.
> 
> I didn't really try the original value (had a ECC88 Mullard kicking around) but will and need to let things bed in before passing judgement. Also I only have dt770 pro80's and ultrasone 780's here to try which are both bass heavy so not ideal.


 
  Zero DAC is all the way transistor, Aune T1 is different because tube buffer and its sound. It might be that you just like transistor based sound more for your ears.


----------



## maurits

CoiL, I got that $6,95 Philips PCC189 tube you mentioned. 
   
  Even though it is still burning in, I already like it more than the Heerlen Mullard ECC88 I have. From the outside though, they look very very similar. 
   
  It sure sounds better than the Gold Lion. I could have bought 10 Philips tubes for the same money... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  Thanks for the pointer!


----------



## GaryPham

Just ordered me one of these T1's.  Does anyone happen to have an extra Amperex orange globe that they can sell me shipped to California?  Please PM if you do.  Thanks in advance guys!


----------



## MrEleventy

ebay has them fairly cheap. I saw a few for <$20 shipped with buy it now options.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





maurits said:


> CoiL, I got that $6,95 Philips PCC189 tube you mentioned.
> 
> Even though it is still burning in, I already like it more than the Heerlen Mullard ECC88 I have. From the outside though, they look very very similar.
> 
> ...


 
  Good to hear that someone confirms my recommendation about that tube. There are still 4 available: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PHILIPS-PCC189-7ES8-NOS-NIB-VINTAGE-VACUUM-TUBE-HEERLEN-HOLLAND-/261186327538?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3ccfeb13f2
   
  And for me that comparing note about Gold Lion is good to hear, thought buying that tube at some point, glad I didn`t.
  Now, try to get your hands on Ultron PCC189 or Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 like I said earlier, for my ears, Ultron PCC189 is even better for rock/metal/progressive/jazz than Amperex Orange GAC and Dario is ultimate tube for everything.


----------



## debuchan

I need to thank CoiL as well- his recommendations are spot on! I have the Philips tube and it sounds great... much better than this bargain tube I just got. It works better for classical music, but even then, I get so much distortion that it is appalling! The positive out of all of this is that I have a tube with different colored lettering, lol.
   
  I tried finding the Ultron PCC189 on eBay, but the only seller I could find wants buyers with at least 50 feedback. The other option I found was a seller that requires at least 50 Euro to order (the tubes are highly affordable but I cannot find 50 Euro worth of tubes that I want).
   
  ...and so, my search continues...


----------



## GaryPham

So for those of you guys who's used both, which would you say is the better overall tube?  The Amperex orange globe or the Philips PCC189?  I mostly listen to hiphop/rnb/pop and some rock and was hoping to just get one very good overall tube so that I won't get sucked TOO far into the money pit.
   
  Just for clarification also, these are the 2 tubes that you guys have all been talking about right?
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/TESTS-NOS-AMPEREX-HOLLAND-ECC88-6DJ8-E88CC-PREAMP-AUDIO-TUBE-439-441-445-446-453-/121085882684?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item1c3147f13c
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILIPS-PCC189-7ES8-NOS-NIB-VINTAGE-VACUUM-TUBE-HEERLEN-HOLLAND-/261186327538?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3ccfeb13f2


----------



## nykobing

debuchan said:


> I tried finding the Ultron PCC189 on eBay, but the only seller I could find wants buyers with at least 50 feedback. The other option I found was a seller that requires at least 50 Euro to order (the tubes are highly affordable but I cannot find 50 Euro worth of tubes that I want).
> 
> ...and so, my search continues...



If you live in the US, I had to buy three (http://www.ebay.com/itm/190815371234?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) you can have one at what I paid, like 10 dollars, if you want it. I can't imagine ever using three of them, plus I have some pcc88 ultron coming for the hell if it


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





garypham said:


> So for those of you guys who's used both, which would you say is the better overall tube?  The Amperex orange globe or the Philips PCC189?  I mostly listen to hiphop/rnb/pop and some rock and was hoping to just get one very good overall tube so that I won't get sucked TOO far into the money pit.
> 
> Just for clarification also, these are the 2 tubes that you guys have all been talking about right?
> 
> ...


 
  I certainly prefer the Amperex for Jazz. I honestly haven't done any truly critical listening to any other genre in the short time (just over a month) I've had the T1 and about three weeks with the Amperex. I bought a Phillips PCC189 right after I got the T1 and it sounded overly hard at first - but became much better over time. I still don't put it up there like Coil does - I am liking the Voskhod Rocket 6N3P better and my Holland made Mullard MUCH better (for me, it is neck and neck with the Amperex Orange). I have an Ultron coming from Germany which will hopefully get here soon so I can compare. The Dario Mini watts I've seen are priced way above what I'm willing to spend on a tube.


----------



## GaryPham

So would you say the Amperex Orange your favorite overall tube at the moment?  Just to make sure, the one I posted in the link is the correct Amperex Orange globe right? (I'm assuming since there's a globe in the picture), however, I don't see any mention to A-frame or anything like that which I've seen some of you guys associate with the the orange globes.


----------



## Salvatore

My Amperex 7308 PQ has been delivered to the local post office. Hopefully I have time to pick it up today and post some impressions.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





garypham said:


> So for those of you guys who's used both, which would you say is the better overall tube?  The Amperex orange globe or the Philips PCC189?  I mostly listen to hiphop/rnb/pop and some rock and was hoping to just get one very good overall tube so that I won't get sucked TOO far into the money pit.
> 
> Just for clarification also, these are the 2 tubes that you guys have all been talking about right?
> 
> ...


 
   
  From my tubes the orange globe gets most listening time (that's why I ordered 4 spares, from which one goes to Coil). The one in your link is dimpled disc A-frame, which is exactly the same tube that I have. I have no complaints listening some Ice Cube and Everlast with this one.
   
  The real question is what tube you are using at the moment and how do you find it to suit your music preferences / headphones.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> I certainly prefer the Amperex for Jazz.


 
  Agree with that.
   
   


> I still don't put it up there like Coil does - I am liking the Voskhod Rocket 6N3P better and my Holland made Mullard MUCH better (for me, it is neck and neck with the Amperex Orange).


 
  This seems to be mostly matter of taste in your case and also maybe difference in music & cans. But also might be difference in our tubes age. Maybe my tube has had more use and is in degrading period. Who knows.
   
  Agree that in burn-in phase Philips ppc189 is littlebit too "harsh" but for me, now it`s on same level with Mullard ECC88 or littlebit better depending on music and 6N23P (reflector logo) "sucks" side of it. Amperex GAC orange is better than both of them imho.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





garypham said:


> So would you say the Amperex Orange your favorite overall tube at the moment?  Just to make sure, the one I posted in the link is the correct Amperex Orange globe right? (I'm assuming since there's a globe in the picture), however, I don't see any mention to A-frame or anything like that which I've seen some of you guys associate with the the orange globes.


 
   
  The amperex tube you linked IS with A-frame structure, lol, read more carefully about tubes.
  But no. I would not recommend this tube for every genre. For rock/metal/progressive/jazz it is very good.
  For electronic atmospheric, downtempo, minimal, house, dub etc. it has too mellow and warm soundstage and needs more air & kick.
 But thats only my opinion.
   
  The link you gave about Amperex orange has quite good price on them, I would get it and leave 6922EH tube for electronic.
   
  Like I`ve said before, for me, best tubes for every genre are Dario-Miniwatt pcc189, Ultron pcc189 & Mazda pcc189 (for me it has too bright & harsh highs with cans but with external speakers it`s good, the room eats the harshness).
   
   
   



nykobing said:


> ...plus I have some pcc88 ultron coming for the hell if it


 
  Can you give a link where you bought it? I hope you didn`t think it is same as my ultron pcc189 because they might be totally different sounding.


----------



## nykobing

coil said:


> Can you give a link where you bought it? I hope you didn`t think it is same as my ultron pcc189 because they might be totally different sounding.




I am sure they sound different, I was just curious, since I have a the PCC189 coming. Here is a link -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261190564227?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D261190564227%26_rdc%3D1


----------



## Salvatore

I'm now listening my new purchase: Amperex 7308 white label PQ. First of all I have to say that this tube is in superb condition. All logos are visible and nearly perfectly intact. Looks better than in those pictures Quartz have in their website. Great great collectors item that will surely get the premium spot in my cigar box.

Well what about the sound then? The sound is actually pretty similar with my Telefunken 7DJ8. Very transparent, airy and neutral. Maybe a tad warmer than the Tele, but I'm yet to really confirm this. Mids are strong like in the case of orange globe. Also the bass has more control and the overall separation and clarity is better. If you need more kick than what the orange globe offers this is not the tube for you. With 7308, It's easy to enjoy music and notice all the small things going on in the mix. Both Amperex white label and Telefunken 7DJ8 are fantastic for jazz and instrumentals since you can easily hear all the brushes and strokes of individual instruments. Purely performance wise I'd say that, from my current tube collection, Telefunken and Amperex white label are on par followed by Amperex orange globe and Siemens 7DJ8. I hardly ever listen to those other tubes.

So another good question is whether this Amperex is worth the price I paid? Well this is in my opinion more neutral and accurate sounding and hence better tube than orange globe, but it doesn't mean that it's necessarily a better sounding tube in every setup. With some headphones and music styles these analytical tubes could feel less musical than those softer, warmer and mellow tubes. You should also keep in mind that this single 7308 cost me about the same amount of dollars than the 6 tubes haul where I got 3 Telefunken 7DJ8s, 2 Valvo 7DJ8s and a single Siemens 7DJ8 tube. Two of those Teles are in very good condition with logos visible. In this regards the 6 tube haul was of course a better deal, especially considering how good tube the 7DJ8 Tele is. All things considered I'm still happy that I did go for this 7308 white label. It's such a good looking and sounding tube. If you are interested of trying this kind of neutral sound you should also look for those Telefunken tubes. They are really really good! All this being said I really don't think that any tube is worth $100 or somethig ridiculous like that. There are lots of good cheap options out there.

Ok, so I'm now one tube away from completing my collection. The last tube is going to be Ultron and after that I retire from this business and just enjoy the music. My advice, for all of those people who are thinking of what kind of tubes to buy, is to get one forward sounding tube, one neutral analytical tube, one warm and lush tube with good punchy bass and one good overall tube. And in each category try to go for the best tube possible. Finally, you should keep in mind that this tube rolling business is always subjective and while there are those better/best tubes, they do not necessarily have the best synergy with your setup. In my opinion the best tubes are the most neutral ones with superb sound stage, imaging and transparency. Of course this rolling business allows you to find the coloration you are after to reach better overall synergy.

From my collection I recommend:

Rocket logo / Siemens 7DJ8 as the forward sounding tube.
Amperex 7308 white label PQ / Telefunken 7DJ8 as the neutral analytical sounding tube (see Tungsram red label for more affordable substitute).
Amperex 6DJ8 orange world label as the lush mellow sounding tube.
I'm actually still in search for that relatively cheap overall tube. I can of course use all of these above tubes for everything I listen but I'm hoping that the Ultron will fit this description (I wanted to go for British Mullards, but just got so many defective units that I kind of lost the interest).


----------



## BluesDaddy

Well, I received my Ultron. It actually came on Monday, but since it was registered mail, signature required, I didn't get it. Of course, the Postal Carrier didn't leave the notice in the mail box as they usually do, but at my front door that I rarely use. So, I didn't even see the notice until yesterday when I opened the door to retrieve a UPS box.
   
   
  
   
   
   
  This should complete my Tube collection unless, as I stated before, some other "giant killer" gets mentioned.
   
  Oh, and since I've never posted pics of my cigar box storage, here are some of that. I don't have the tubes labeled, and have left those that came with boxes in the box. The Ratheon box came with a different tube and I have my Mullard in it.
   
   
   
   
  The Ultron has been warming up. Now to give a listen!!
   
  Cheers!


----------



## uncola

Quote: The Ultron has been warming up. Now to give a listen!!
   
You might say..  the Age of Ultron has begun.  (terrible joke only comic readers would get)


----------



## CoiL

Haha, and you said it when I`m going to order 3 more Ultrons with Salvatore 
 Btw, my Ultrons that were definitely unused or even tested (no marks on pins), sounded really good already out of the box without burn-in


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Oh, and since I've never posted pics of my cigar box storage, here are some of that. I don't have the tubes labeled, and have left those that came with boxes in the box. The Ratheon box came with a different tube and I have my Mullard in it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Nice pics! Let me know how you like that Ultron. We are now indeed planning on a joint order from uraltone with Coil. And yes he is getting 3 spare Ultrons so it really must be an awesome tube


----------



## ForeverCabron1

Just ordered the Aune T1. Can't wait!


----------



## CoiL

Aune T1 owners & lovers - raise the popularity of this lovely black-money-sucking-ear-tingling-box! -> http://www.head-fi.org/t/643537/dac-popularity-check-2013-edition/195


----------



## k_jiunn

Hi
   
  I have an Aune T1 on the way and just wondering has anyone tried paring this with DT880 600 ohm?
  I'm abit worried that the T1 doesn't have enough power to drive the headphones.
  Thanks
   
  KJ


----------



## MrEleventy

k_jiunn said:


> Hi
> 
> I have an Aune T1 on the way and just wondering has anyone tried paring this with DT880 600 ohm?
> I'm abit worried that the T1 doesn't have enough power to drive the headphones.
> ...




dt880/600 is my primary hps but I don't run it directly from the Aune, I line out into a objective2. I'll try running directly when I get to work tomorrow.


----------



## vurtomatic

Was sitting on this but looks like Head-Fi bought up all the tubes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILIPS-PCC189-7ES8-NOS-NIB-VINTAGE-VACUUM-TUBE-HEERLEN-HOLLAND-/261186327538?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3ccfeb13f2&nma=true&si=PnfGwtBC84t9whzNms2BxElzNec%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


----------



## CoiL

Yeah, if you see a tube that is with good price and you want it - my recommendation - just buy it when you still have chance. Thats why I`m using opportunity to get enough backups for my Ultron PCC189 (will have 5 of them soon).


----------



## vurtomatic

I'm still waiting for my T1 which has a 6922 tube, and I already bought an Amperex 6DJ8, so wasn't sure about the PCC189.


----------



## Kamiru

Doe these ship with an EU adapter?


----------



## CoiL

http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/465#post_9111597
   
  It ships with EU adapter but it won`t fit into deeper sockets due to stupid shape it has.


----------



## GaryPham

Anyone here have a spare Ultron PCC189 they can possibly sell to me? (California).


----------



## CoiL

I would wait for BluesDaddy and Salvatore reviews about this tube because it`s only my personal opinion about this tube. Wouldn`t hurry to stock it up "blindly". But yeah, I do prefer this tube to Amperex GAC orange and it`s very good with every genre but best with rock/metal/progressive/jazz.


----------



## Kamiru

Thanks for the quick reply *CoiL*, I can just buy another adapter without worrying about blowing stuff up right? or is it some kind of special adapter?


----------



## CoiL

It`s usual UK > EU adapter, nothing to worry about. And remember to change UK fuse (13A) to smaller value (0,5A - 3A).


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> I would wait for BluesDaddy and Salvatore reviews about this tube because it`s only my personal opinion about this tube. Wouldn`t hurry to stock it up "blindly". But yeah, I do prefer this tube to Amperex GAC orange and it`s very good with every genre but best with rock/metal/progressive/jazz.


 
  I've been trying to re-acquaint myself with my GAC while still burning in the Ultron. To be honest, I was liking the Voskhod so much with all types of music that I hadn't swapped back to either the GAC or the Mullard. My very initial impressions of the Ultron is that it is very similar to the Phillips PCC189. I did not get the "wow" factor that I got when I first listened to my GAC or Mullard. However, I've also been doing a lot of listening to my new (to me) Technics SL-1200 turntable and the sound of vinyl may be making everything digital sound a bit "hard" or "edgy" to me. I'm not sure when I will be able to offer a more substantial perspective on the Ultron. Listening to Bach organ works on vinyl is addictive!


----------



## GaryPham

Has anyone had a chance to use the T1 with a 600ohm beyer?  Any troubles regarding power?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> My very initial impressions of the Ultron is that it is very similar to the Phillips PCC189. I did not get the "wow" factor that I got when I first listened to my GAC or Mullard.


 
  O_o ...we must be hearing things differently & also seems to be the matter of taste.
   
  Imho Ultron PCC189 is definitely better than Philips PCC189. And same or little better than Amperex GAC, depending on music. For example, Amperex GAC is too mellow & warm with Dead Letter Circus /  TOOL / Karnivool and lacks littlebit in bass/percussion tightness & kick - Ultron PCC189 "fixes" all that. Like I said already, both have same soundstage imaging but Ultron is much better layered and transparent with instrument separation also being lot better. Same goes against Philips PCC189.
   
  Well, anyway, nice to hear someones else opinion. For me it`s very very good tube, and for the price I`m getting them - killer tube!


----------



## McKajVah

Can anyone reccomend a tube to go with my Grado SR325??
   
  Probably something dark and mellow....


----------



## GaryPham

Ordered my T1 already along with Amperex orange globe.  Heavily considering picking up a pair of DT990 pro's to go along with it.  Is anyone using this setup right now?  Only thing that concerns me with the DT990's is that I heard the treble can be quite harsh on them and was hoping that the T1 along with mellow orange globe would help tame down the highs.  What do you guys think?


----------



## CoiL

As much as I´ve read, DT880 should be better with T1. Orange would probably tame highs littlebit but not much. If you get good condition orange, then highs should also be bright and opened, can`t tell if it will bring down harsh highs that depend on cans bc I don`t have DT990 myself. But I have Superlux HD-681 which are also with harsh highs if mkII filter isn`t being applied and my amperex GAC orange don`t take those harsh highs out of the picture. I belive it should be same with DT990.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





mckajvah said:


> Can anyone reccomend a tube to go with my Grado SR325??
> 
> Probably something dark and mellow....


 
  Amperex orange globe should be ok. Also, if you can find Mullard PCC189 (large halo getter, metal center plate) then it is very good intimate, foward & warm sounding tube. I enjoy it with some rock bands with external speakers very much.


----------



## MrEleventy

garypham said:


> Ordered my T1 already along with Amperex orange globe.  Heavily considering picking up a pair of DT990 pro's to go along with it.  Is anyone using this setup right now?  Only thing that concerns me with the DT990's is that I heard the treble can be quite harsh on them and was hoping that the T1 along with mellow orange globe would help tame down the highs.  What do you guys think?




I have DT990/600s. T1 + Amperex Orange Globe is the only way I'll listen to them w/o heavy EQing. The Amperex does a good job of taming the highs and the lows too while "fixing" the mids. It does a nice job of balancing the signature of the DT990s a bit. As a reference, I pretty much stopped using the DT990s and was actively trying to sell them. Now with the Amperex, I'm a little hesistant on selling because it's now a great bass cannon for electronic music. I'm not as active trying to sell them. 

E: T1 + Amperex is absolutely heaven with the DT880s tho. XD, get that instead. Hehe


----------



## GaryPham

Hmmm, yea looks like lots of people are recommending the DT880's over the 990's.  Are your 880's also 600 ohm?  I'm just leaning towards the 990's right now since I can get a brand new pair of 990 pros for 145 bucks, while the 880's would cost considerably more.  How harsh are the highs on the 990s?  I guess for reference, I use to own a pair of Denon D2000s which I thought were fine (I read some people say that they felt the D2000 had harsh highs), and a pair of Grado 60i's which I felt wanted to pierce my eardrums with its highs, haha.  Are the highs on the 990's anywhere close to that of grados?


----------



## MrEleventy

Yeah, 880s and 990s are 600 ohms. I haven't heard the Denons nor the Grado so I can't help you there. I think the closes reference that I have with your hps would be the Senn Amps. I had the HD25-II and I found them a bit to treble hot. Same with the DT990/600 ohms.


----------



## GaryPham

After doing some local searching, I was able to find a pretty good deal on a pair of 600 ohm DT880's, so I think I'll definitely go after that instead of the DT990s.  MrEleventy, you say that the T1 should have no problem driving these 600 ohm monsters right? Am I going to have to open the amp up and flip some gain switches or anything? or should the T1 be adequate already without needing to do any changes? (except for rolling in the amperex tube of course).


----------



## MrEleventy

Oh, oops. I should've prefixed that I use the Aune T1 as a dac only. I line out into the objective 2. 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/110900/beyerdynamic-owners-unite/1515#post_9337575

I posted a comparison on running directly from the Aune T1 w/ both dts. tl;dr - don't do it.  I noticed that you already have an Objective2... I'd recommend keeping it for the time being.


----------



## GaryPham

Hmmm, that's kinda strange.  I was hoping that the T1's amp section was gonna be superior to the O2's (specs says that T1 outputs 1w at 32ohm while O2 outputs 613mw at 33ohms).  I noticed that in your testing you had the gains set at +10db.  Did you also try it at +16db and it was still too weak?  The O2 amp is a beefy little guy no doubt, I was just hoping that the T1 could've been my end all dac/amp problem so that I can get rid of all my other components and cleanup my setup.


----------



## MrEleventy

+10 db ran them fine, level wise. they just didn't sound as good as the objective 2. it's a fuller sound.


----------



## icecap

I have the DT990 Pro 250ohm version and I personally prefer this to the DT880 600ohm during my audition.. DT990 gives me the PRaT DT880 is not able to.. granted, some prefers its neutrality, to me I just like the extra juice from DT990, like EQ-ed straight out of box.. not to forget the amount of $$ saved..
   
  with Amperex orange globe, I don't hear the soundstage DT990 is capable of.. it tames the highs no doubt, but the sounds are pressing to my ears, especially with the strong mids this tube gives.. right now I am mainly switching between Gold Lion and Tungsram.. when I am lazy to swap, Philips ECC88 remains there for some time.. these 3 tubes deliver the separation and clarity I am craving for, each with their pros in the different frequency.. my 2 cents..


----------



## debuchan

Quote: 





vurtomatic said:


> Was sitting on this but looks like Head-Fi bought up all the tubes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILIPS-PCC189-7ES8-NOS-NIB-VINTAGE-VACUUM-TUBE-HEERLEN-HOLLAND-/261186327538?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3ccfeb13f2&nma=true&si=PnfGwtBC84t9whzNms2BxElzNec%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


 

 Sorry, I am partly guilty. My only regret is buying only one.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> O_o ...we must be hearing things differently & also seems to be the matter of taste.
> 
> Imho Ultron PCC189 is definitely better than Philips PCC189. And same or little better than Amperex GAC, depending on music. For example, Amperex GAC is too mellow & warm with Dead Letter Circus /  TOOL / Karnivool and lacks littlebit in bass/percussion tightness & kick - Ultron PCC189 "fixes" all that. Like I said already, both have same soundstage imaging but Ultron is much better layered and transparent with instrument separation also being lot better. Same goes against Philips PCC189.
> 
> Well, anyway, nice to hear someones else opinion. For me it`s very very good tube, and for the price I`m getting them - killer tube!


 
  Agreed, though it may have a lot to do with the other equipment we're using. I'm also more convinced that spending a lot of time listening to vinyl has made the tubes all sound more the same.  It is a good tube, good, tight bass extension - I just don't think I'm hearing the mid-range the way I do with the GAC or the Mullard, but when I switched back to the GAC I didn't get quite the same sense either, hence my impression that the vinyl listening is impacting my perspective. At this point, I'm not real confident in my aural senses.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Amperex orange globe should be ok. Also, if you can find Mullard PCC189 (large halo getter, metal center plate) then it is very good intimate, foward & warm sounding tube. I enjoy it with some rock bands with external speakers very much.


 
  My thoughts exactly, though I think you could also go with a Voskhod Rocket or a Amperex Bugle Boy and be happy. (Just don't order from Russia if you want it quickly!!)


----------



## McKajVah

I'm getting 10x Ultron PCC189 coming my way in some weeks... I'm not going to use them all, so I'll send some of them out for free to anyone who want to test them.
  Maybe someone would want send me something in return as well.


----------



## anton2dan

Quote: 





mckajvah said:


> I'm getting 10x Ultron PCC189 coming my way in some weeks... I'm not going to use them all, so I'll send some of them out for free to anyone who want to test them.
> Maybe someone would want send me something in return as well.


 
   
I'd be interested in one Ultron PCC189. I recently got the Aune T1 from a fellow head-fier here (negura).


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> I'm also more convinced that spending a lot of time listening to vinyl has made the tubes all sound more the same. At this point, I'm not real confident in my aural senses.


 
   
  True. It's relatively easy to separate bad tubes from the good ones, but after that it can get complicated. Picking the best from several good tubes could turn out to be really difficult task. In this case the system synergy is getting more and more important. I have no bad tubes, but some of my tubes are noticeably better in my system than the others. In practice I'm talking something like 10-15% improvement (could be even higher when comparing the worst against the best).
   
  I'm really happy how my 7308 PQ Amperex sounds. It has some serious synergy with my headphones and I honestly think that it brings the best out of my T1. One of my favorite things about this tube is that it has very very nice bass. It feels natural and has proper punch when needed. For me the 7308 PQ really combines the best properties from both Telefunken 7DJ8 and Amperex 6DJ8. Analytically sharp transparent sound that doesn't feel cold. Good bass, balanced imaging and great sound through the whole spectrum. Lots of layers which help you discover new interesting things from your favorite tracks (especially with good mid to high end headphones). This tube just seems to have it all. My Teles, Siemens and other Amperexes are not far away from the 7308, but they all have just those small weaknesses that separate them from being the best.
   
  E: This 7308 PQ is my first tube with extremely large halo. I bet those old Bugle Boys with large getter sound amazing as well. I have one small-O Bugle, but it's my least favorite Amperex. It's similar but slightly weaker performer than the orange globe.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





mckajvah said:


> I'm getting 10x Ultron PCC189 coming my way in some weeks... I'm not going to use them all, so I'll send some of them out for free to anyone who want to test them.
> Maybe someone would want send me something in return as well.


 
   
  You the one who got this lot?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-TUBES-ULTRON-PCC189-NEW-ORIGINALBOX-/261194482336?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd06782a0
   
  If you paid $42 + shipping for your NOS Ultrons in their original boxes I think you really shouldn't give them away for free. If you like the tube remember to leave enough spares so that they last as long as you need and sell the rest with minimum of $5 + shipping (to at least cover what you paid). I would even suggest you to sell them for a slight profit ($8 or $10). If you don't want to send them for free using your own money you should definitely ask something for the tubes also. I bet many people here are more than happy to pay you what you paid + some extra. I'd gladly get few of them away from you but me and Coil just ordered some Ultrons from Uraltone.


----------



## CoiL

Wish I known this deal sooner, would also wanted some Ultrons. But well, I got my backups also cheap so doesn`t really matter


----------



## bcpk

Is there an agreed upon tube for use with the HE400s? I have a Mullard ECC88 but am willing to try something new!


----------



## CoiL

What kind of music you listen?


----------



## OrangeTimer

Quote: 





bcpk said:


> Is there an agreed upon tube for use with the HE400s? I have a Mullard ECC88 but am willing to try something new!


 
   
  Honestly, I'm not sure how much difference it's going to make. I started off with the Electro Harmonix 6922 coupled with Audio Techinca's AD700 and it sounded harsh (or harsher than I wanted), so I upgraded to an Amperex JAN 7308 and the difference was great. Sound stage got wider, the bass got cleaner and deeper. I've since upgraded the AD700 to a HE 500 and got a pair of Tungsram red label 6299. I started doing tube rolling and honestly I can't tell the differences between the different tubes. There are miniscule changes to how clean the bass is, or the soundstage, but other than that they're all the same. I'm starting to think that the effect of tube rolling is more pronounced in dynamic headphones, but I'm in the process of testing that out. 
   
  Also, as this hasn't been mentioned before. The Aune T1 powers the HE 500 well (Volume knob half way using the lowest gain setting is a reasonable volume for most songs). Although I would like to test how a more powerful amp affects the sound.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





orangetimer said:


> Honestly, I'm not sure how much difference it's going to make. I started off with the Electro Harmonix 6922 coupled with Audio Techinca's AD700 and it sounded harsh (or harsher than I wanted), so I upgraded to an Amperex JAN 7308 and the difference was great. Sound stage got wider, the bass got cleaner and deeper. I've since upgraded the AD700 to a HE 500 and got a pair of Tungsram red label 6299. I started doing tube rolling and honestly I can't tell the differences between the different tubes. There are miniscule changes to how clean the bass is, or the soundstage, but other than that they're all the same. I'm starting to think that the effect of tube rolling is more pronounced in dynamic headphones, but I'm in the process of testing that out.
> 
> Also, as this hasn't been mentioned before. The Aune T1 powers the HE 500 well (Volume knob half way using the lowest gain setting is a reasonable volume for most songs). Although I would like to test how a more powerful amp affects the sound.


 
   
  Maybe you just have great tubes that don't have so much difference. The initial impressions when switching from EH to Amperex could be because of insufficient burn in for the EH? I've reviewed tubes too many times before burnin them in, which has led to hasty impressions. This being said, I still think 7308 should beat EH in every system. Haven't heard industrial Tungsram but what I've been told / what I've been reading about it, it should have similarities with 7308 Amperex (transparent, layered, good bass + all that good stuff).


----------



## OrangeTimer

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Maybe you just have great tubes that don't have so much difference. The initial impressions when switching from EH to Amperex could be because of insufficient burn in for the EH? I've reviewed tubes too many times before burnin them in, which has led to hasty impressions. This being said, I still think 7308 should beat EH in every system. Haven't heard industrial Tungsram but what I've been told / what I've been reading about it, it should have similarities with 7308 Amperex (transparent, layered, good bass + all that good stuff).


 
   
  I spent a little bit more than 2 weeks with the EH before the 7308 came in. Plenty of listening everyday which I would consider decent burn in. In the end, the Amperex tube (using the AD700) was considerably better than the 6922EH, which seems in line with what people have been saying about the 7308 tube. The Tungsram 6922 were also particularly good too. I completely agree about your opinion of the 7308.
   
  Other factors I'm considering in the change from the AD700 to HE 500. Bass is an issue with the AD700 which might explain why 7308's bass qualities might've made the change more evident in the AD700 over the HE 500. Also the AD700 are considered fairly bright so and if the 7308 rolled off any of the highs then that would've made them less fatiguing. These issues aren't a problem with the HE 500. So I'm not sure tube rolling made much difference with the HE 500 (and possibly the HE 400). So far, I don't believe bspk will get as much from tube rolling since the HE 400 is already a good headphone. I've already given a lot of subjective opinion so I'd like to test out other dynamic headphones and tubes before commenting any further. I'd rather not FUD this up.
   
  I'll have to try out your great performing tube hypothesis too. I might go buy a cheap tube and test that out 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  Anyone in Sydney, Australia want to swap my spare Tungsram 6922 for a crappy tube?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





orangetimer said:


> I spent a little bit more than 2 weeks with the EH before the 7308 came in. Plenty of listening everyday which I would consider decent burn in. In the end, the Amperex tube (using the AD700) was considerably better than the 6922EH, which seems in line with what people have been saying about the 7308 tube. The Tungsram 6922 were also particularly good too. I completely agree about your opinion of the 7308.
> 
> Other factors I'm considering in the change from the AD700 to HE 500. Bass is an issue with the AD700 which might explain why 7308's bass qualities might've made the change more evident in the AD700 over the HE 500. Also the AD700 are considered fairly bright so and if the 7308 rolled off any of the highs then that would've made them less fatiguing. These issues aren't a problem with the HE 500. So I'm not sure tube rolling made much difference with the HE 500 (and possibly the HE 400). So far, I don't believe bspk will get as much from tube rolling since the HE 400 is already a good headphone. I've already given a lot of subjective opinion so I'd like to test out other dynamic headphones and tubes before commenting any further. I'd rather not FUD this up.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Interesting read. Keep working on this.
   
   
  And now since my cigar box collection is nearly finished (waiting only for the Ultron to arrive) I want to share some photos of my headphones and tube collection.


----------



## MarkBastard

Hello all, looking for some feedback before I buy this DAC.
   
  Sorry in advance as I know this is my first post and that this forum is headphone specific, however I wish to purchase this primarily as a DAC to sit between my HTPC and integrated stereo amp to be used with speakers, however would also use it for headphone listening from time to time.
   
  I want to know how it performs as a DAC only, ie using the USB port as an input and the RCA line out then connecting to an integrated amp.
   
  My setup is a Marantz PM6004 amp and Monitor Audio BX2 speakers. I bought this gear recently and it's great with my record player but my current DAC just isn't cutting it, pales in comparison to the record players performance (Pro-Ject Debut Carbon).
   
  The tube is used during the DAC stage right? So I'll get tube warmth even when using line-out?
   
  Out of interest, has anyone used this with XBMC / OpenElec or linux in general? I imagine there's no issues?
   
  I have read a lot of the thread and searched but couldn't find answers to these questions (nor on the greater Internet).
   
  Thanks


----------



## MarkBastard

Also my musical tastes are mostly punk, ska, reggae,folk and some country (acoustic stuff) ie nothing digital. I want a dac that sounds analogue.


----------



## CoiL

When you use USB input then tube buffer is always used and applies also to RCA line-out.


----------



## Salvatore

I'm interested to know what kind of external speakers you guys use with your T1 and how do they perform/sound?


----------



## buestad

I have now spent a few days listening and comparing the stock 6922EH and Phillips PCC189, and honestly I cannot hear much difference. I use my K550s and Spotify premium and iTunes (Apple lossless) as source. I've listen to pop/rock/folk (like Mark Knopfler)
   
  Are my ears not fine tuned enaugh, or are these tubes kinda like, or is tube rolling just a hoax?


----------



## epel

Hi fellow Aune T1 owners!

 I'm looking to extend the cable between the T1-unit and the power adapter (the black brick) so i can place the power adapter on the floor.
   
  Can you guys tell me if this is the correct extension cable for the T1? If not can you tell me the type of cable/plug I need?
 http://www.amazon.com/MIDI-AT-Keyboard-Extension-Cable/dp/B0000934ED/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1365683295&sr=8-15&keywords=5+din+pin+cable+extender


----------



## MrEleventy

epel said:


> Hi fellow Aune T1 owners!
> 
> 
> I'm looking to extend the cable between the T1-unit and the power adapter (the black brick) so i can place the power adapter on the floor.
> ...




I think it'll fit but not sure if it'll "work". I wouldn't recommend using it, keyboards don't output a large current through those cords so there's no way of knowing if the cord can handle that kind of load for extended periods. You're better off cracking open the transformer itself and soldering a new cable and reusing the head. Or find something else that matches it's intended use.


----------



## RAFA

Quote: 





buestad said:


> I have now spent a few days listening and comparing the stock 6922EH and Phillips PCC189, and honestly I cannot hear much difference. I use my K550s and Spotify premium and iTunes (Apple lossless) as source. I've listen to pop/rock/folk (like Mark Knopfler)
> 
> Are my ears not fine tuned enaugh, or are these tubes kinda like, or is tube rolling just a hoax?


 
   
  I still did not receive the PCC189, it is nearing 3 weeks now.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





buestad said:


> I have now spent a few days listening and comparing the stock 6922EH and Phillips PCC189, and honestly I cannot hear much difference. I use my K550s and Spotify premium and iTunes (Apple lossless) as source. I've listen to pop/rock/folk (like Mark Knopfler)
> 
> Are my ears not fine tuned enaugh, or are these tubes kinda like, or is tube rolling just a hoax?


 
  Then it must be your ears because 6922EH and Philips PCC189 are certainly totally different sounding tubes!
  Tube rolling with Aune T1 hoax? LOL. I think your ears are not fine tuned enough like you said.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





buestad said:


> I have now spent a few days listening and comparing the stock 6922EH and Phillips PCC189, and honestly I cannot hear much difference. I use my K550s and Spotify premium and iTunes (Apple lossless) as source. I've listen to pop/rock/folk (like Mark Knopfler)
> 
> Are my ears not fine tuned enaugh, or are these tubes kinda like, or is tube rolling just a hoax?


 
   
  It's no easy task I know. All tubes have this Aune T1 signature sound, but some tubes just have better resolution, transparency, sound stage etc. Try to focus on one thing at a time during your A/B rolls or it will get overwhelming. Analyze the bass (punch, resolution), warmness (is the warmness present through the whole spectrum), sound stage (wideness and deepness), transparency (how easy it is to separate instruments, layers) and imaging (is it easy to locate all instruments/vocals and are they located reasonably).
   
  On another note, I'm listening Ultron PCC189 right now. This tube is an absolute steal for €6.6. Not as clear, detailed and layered as 7308 amperex, but highly musical and enjoyable. Smooth with good sound stage and nice punchy bass. Price over performance wise definitely one of my best tubes. I've had hard time listening some rock (RHCP for example) because it can get easily fatiguing in my system. With this tube rock is, however, very enjoyable. For detailed jazz and instrumentals I prefer my more analytical tubes. I've also noticed that sometimes this tube can feel even too soft and smooth. All things considered and especially for this price Ultron PCC189 comes highly recommended and should be part of every rollers collection.


----------



## CoiL

Let it have some burn-in too, it gets littlebit better but not much. Like I told, this tube is killer for the money! And it does ok with electronic music too. If you have thin wallet and are not so "audiophile" guy/girl, my recommendation - get this tube and forget about tube rolling


----------



## OrangeTimer

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Interesting read. Keep working on this.
> 
> 
> And now since my cigar box collection is nearly finished (waiting only for the Ultron to arrive) I want to share some photos of my headphones and tube collection.


 
   
   
  Nice collection dude! I see you've got some corrosion on the pins on some tubes. You might want to use some deoxit contact cleaner to get that off. Some issues with my 7308 tubes cleared up with some cleaning.
   
  Actually that makes me kind of curious. Does anyone else use contact cleaner to clean the pins before rolling?


----------



## CoiL

I clean all my tube pins before first use with 30% vinegar + baking soda.


----------



## walfredo

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> I'm interested to know what kind of external speakers you guys use with your T1 and how do they perform/sound?


 
   
  I have Yamaha Soavo-2 with an Integra receiver as amp, and it sounds gorgeous.  Very intimate and musical.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





orangetimer said:


> Nice collection dude! I see you've got some corrosion on the pins on some tubes. You might want to use some deoxit contact cleaner to get that off. Some issues with my 7308 tubes cleared up with some cleaning.
> 
> Actually that makes me kind of curious. Does anyone else use contact cleaner to clean the pins before rolling?


 
   
  Thanks! I only clean pins if I suspect there is something wrong with the sound. Those Teles and Valvo are actually my spares. Looks older (=cooler) I guess  I use the sh|tty print tubes and save the ones with better prints (Most of my tubes still has very worn or no prints). Lately I've been studying how to interpret those factory codes and it's fun and rewarding stuff. After started doing this been appreciating good factory etching even more. Visible prints, on the other hand, makes these tubes look very nice in your collection.
   
  But yeah this is good point. Maybe I should clean all the tubes that are in constant use.


----------



## buestad

I have tried som more rolling today between the 6922EH and Phillips PCC189, and if I listen very closely I can maybe hear that the PCC189 is a bit more "open". Is it this you guys call sondstage? I find this tube a tiny bit more relaxing to listen to.
   
  I find myself using the PCC189 most, so probably my subconscious tells me that I like this better, or maybe it is just that I payed extra for it 
   
  I have a pair of 6n23p coming. Will be intresting to see if i can differ the sound with this tube.
   
  Where can I get the Ultron from a trustworthy seller?


----------



## CoiL

buestad, I seriously think that analytical listening isn`t for your ears. 6922EH has larger & more open soundstage than Philips PCC189. 
   
  You can get Ultron from Uraltone or electol but there`s a order cash minimum limit. Salvatore & I got our Ultrons from Uraltone. I already had bought 2 NIB/NOS Ultrons from ebay and 2 more coming from Uraltone (through Salvatore).


----------



## Salvatore

*Buestad* I don't have Philips tube so can't really say. But yes sound stage is kind of the depth and wideness of the sound. By transparency I mean how much air there is between the instruments / how easy it is to separate even the smallest sounds. These are just terms and are kind of overlapping.
   
  If you are interested of Ultron ask *McKajVah*. He bought 10 tubes and is giving them away for free / small compensation / trades. I think he's also from Norway. Ultron has good synergy with bright AKG sound. It smoothens and tames things out a little bit and you get less fatiguing presentation. Like I said it's very nice tube for rock where you don't need that much analytical listening. Orange globe could be better for watching dialogue heavy tv series. It kind of has more pronounced vocals imo.
   
  My advice is to not spend too much money on the tubes if you feel they sound too similar. Hopefully everyone is using WASAPI or ASIO plugins in their players to get the best sound out. If you feed raw bit stream to your Aune and have good mid to high end cans you should be able to find those fine details between tubes.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





markbastard said:


> Hello all, looking for some feedback before I buy this DAC.
> 
> Sorry in advance as I know this is my first post and that this forum is headphone specific, however I wish to purchase this primarily as a DAC to sit between my HTPC and integrated stereo amp to be used with speakers, however would also use it for headphone listening from time to time.
> 
> ...


 
  Lots of posts here about just that aspect of the device. My set up is almost identical to what you describe, with my PC playing my digital library via the T1 through my hi-fi system. It works wonderfully this way.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





buestad said:


> I have tried som more rolling today between the 6922EH and Phillips PCC189, and if I listen very closely I can maybe hear that the PCC189 is a bit more "open". Is it this you guys call sondstage? I find this tube a tiny bit more relaxing to listen to.
> 
> I find myself using the PCC189 most, so probably my subconscious tells me that I like this better, or maybe it is just that I payed extra for it
> 
> ...


 
  Actually, "soundstage" is the presentation of the placement of specific sounds across the width (and in some cases height and breadth) of the aural presentation. IOW, close your eyes and visualize an actual stage where the musicians are at different locations on the stage.  That is the "soundstage". Much equipment will "blur" that soundstage or be indistinct so that you can't really place where the instruments are located (this is probably closer to how music is perceived at an actual live performance, however). "Improved" soundstage communicates that each instrument or voice is better localized across the width, height or breadth of the aural presentation.
   
  "Openness" is, well, "openness" - the soundstage, if you will, is bigger. Instead of being right between your ears, it is perceived to extend beyond your ears. This is usually most noticeable with open back headphones. Closed headphones generally only give you a very narrowly focused, or "closed", soundstage.
   
  Does that help?


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





buestad said:


> I have tried som more rolling today between the 6922EH and Phillips PCC189, and if I listen very closely I can maybe hear that the PCC189 is a bit more "open". Is it this you guys call sondstage? I find this tube a tiny bit more relaxing to listen to.
> 
> I find myself using the PCC189 most, so probably my subconscious tells me that I like this better, or maybe it is just that I payed extra for it
> 
> ...


 
  To respond to your second paragraph about finding yourself listening more to the PCC189, that is one aspect of listening to any equipment. Sometimes aural differences are extremely subtle. Many (most?) times, differences are exaggerated in an attempt to communication what one is hearing. But even when you can't articulate or sometimes even consciously discern a real difference, over time the difference presents itself as a tendency such as you describe. You just like listening to one over another.  My reaction to the Phillips was the same as yours. I subjected it to about 48 hours of constant "brown noise" (google it and you'll find a site to play or download a sample of it) to break it in.  After break in, it truly opens up and becomes a really different tube.  To be fair, I did NOT subject the stock tube to the same treatment and have not given it any listen at all since the first day or so after receiving the T1.
   
  Tube rolling isn't a "hoax", but in a buffer stage the effects are far more subtle than in an amplifier or even a pre-amp.


----------



## buestad

I did "burn in" the PCC189 with 40h of brown noise. (The K550 I buned in with 60h of pink noise).
  Maybe critical listening or tube rolling isn't for me, but in any case, I enjoy the sound from my headphones + amp very much!
   
  Thaks for the tips about sound terms and how to listen. I won't give up just yet!


----------



## McKajVah

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> If you are interested of Ultron ask *McKajVah*. He bought 10 tubes and is giving them away for free / small compensation / trades. I think he's also from Norway.


 
   
  PM to Buestad sent.
   
  The tubes will probably come next week, but I'm going away for the next two weeks... 
   
  When I get back I'll send some of them out. The ten of them only cost me $50 incl. shipping. I will of course keep some to my self, but why hold on to ten when I know some people are having problems getting them. Sure I could sell them on for $10-$15, but for me it's more important to try to help others and get their opinion on them.
   
  For instance I'm going to send Joeq70 one (the tread starter). This way I can compare his opinion on them with mine and hopefully draw some meaningfull information to his experience with other tubes he has tested. If he really like it then he can keep it and if not, then maybe send it to someone else who wants to try. 
   
  Happy listening.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Actually, "soundstage" is the presentation of the placement of specific sounds across the width (and in some cases height and breadth) of the aural presentation. IOW, close your eyes and visualize an actual stage where the musicians are at different locations on the stage.  That is the "soundstage". Much equipment will "blur" that soundstage or be indistinct so that you can't really place where the instruments are located (this is probably closer to how music is perceived at an actual live performance, however). "Improved" soundstage communicates that each instrument or voice is better localized across the width, height or breadth of the aural presentation.
> 
> "Openness" is, well, "openness" - the soundstage, if you will, is bigger. Instead of being right between your ears, it is perceived to extend beyond your ears. This is usually most noticeable with open back headphones. Closed headphones generally only give you a very narrowly focused, or "closed", soundstage.
> 
> Does that help?


 
   
  I agree about _sound stage_ being the stage or space where the sounds are located (height depth width). This spatial area can easily go far beyond your ears and head (ever had those moments when you think somebody is behind you when listening greatly produced records with cool sound stage effects). I personally use _imaging_ to describe the placement of the instruments. For example sound stage could be very large but the imaging could be kind of off (for example some instrument seems to be out of balance etc). _Transparency_ for me means how the instruments are separated. You could again have very large sound stage, but some sounds are not reaching your ear clearly enough for whatever reason. I often use _open_ to describe wide sound stage and _airy_ to kind of combine sound stage with transparency. _Cold_ could be used to describe analytical sound and _warm/mellow_ to describe cozy more musical sound. Sometimes you hear people saying that something is _recessed_ or _laid back_, mids for example. This means that the mids are not as powerful as the rest of the mix (bass and treble). If bass is _muddy_ it lacks the resolution. Sound stage, imaging and transparency along with some other terms discussed here are often overlapping and not so unambiguous. But yeah this is just how I personally see these things.


----------



## epel

Quote:


mreleventy said:


> I think it'll fit but not sure if it'll "work". I wouldn't recommend using it, keyboards don't output a large current through those cords so there's no way of knowing if the cord can handle that kind of load for extended periods. You're better off cracking open the transformer itself and soldering a new cable and reusing the head. Or find something else that matches it's intended use.


   
  Thanks for your response, I'll keep on looking


----------



## nykobing

Quote: 





coil said:


> O_o ...we must be hearing things differently & also seems to be the matter of taste.
> 
> Imho Ultron PCC189 is definitely better than Philips PCC189. And same or little better than Amperex GAC, depending on music. For example, Amperex GAC is too mellow & warm with Dead Letter Circus /  TOOL / Karnivool and lacks littlebit in bass/percussion tightness & kick - Ultron PCC189 "fixes" all that. Like I said already, both have same soundstage imaging but Ultron is much better layered and transparent with instrument separation also being lot better. Same goes against Philips PCC189.
> 
> Well, anyway, nice to hear someones else opinion. For me it`s very very good tube, and for the price I`m getting them - killer tube!


 
   
  My Ultron PCC189's arrived this morning and the one I put in sounds really nice just out of the box, no burn in. It sounds nothing like the Phillips 189 A Frame that a lot of people here bought for 6 or 7 dollars, I bought that one as well. That Phillips sounded kind of lifeless to me and I don't know how anyone could confuse the Ultron with it, unless Ultron sourced from adifferent suppliers for the PCC189. I don't know if the highs of the Ultron are as good as my Siemens 6dj8 or my RCA 6922 (US Amperex from 1962), but everything else about this tube is just as good as those two. I think the mids are better. It is really good with drums and sounds really nice now playing New Order's Technique. Did you find out anything else about who made this tube? The one I am playing now has no markings on the bottom, but one of them that came today has a "+". They also have the weakest glow of any tube I have ever seen. Thanks for the recommendation and maybe my PCC88 Ultron will come tomorrow.
  .


----------



## CoiL

I feel same about Ultron pcc189 vs. Philips pcc189 - philips sounds "lifeless" compared to Ultron. Don`t get me wrong, Philips pcc189 is also great tube for the money but nowhere near to Ultron.
  My Ultron pcc189`s that I got from eBay has no marks on the bottom. And all the prints tube has are in great condition and durable (still come off if your RUB with something wet). The tube I`ve been using for longer time now has following markings: Golden crown logo with Ultron SQ written in it, Larger PCC189 and smaller 7ES8 under it, vertically on the side of the tube is code 40811 and the usual factory code location it has DJF with V3B under it. Second tube has exactly same markings. Haven`t received my other Ultrons from Salvatore, so don`t know about those yet. 
  About highs, imho they are great. Maybe it has something to do with different gear we are using. 
  As far as I know Ultron PCC189 tubes are made in Hungary. Probably made in same factories as Tungsram`s but Ultrons seem to be "Special Quality" league out of them. I also tried to search similiarities between Tungsram PCC189 but they seem to be physically different tubes.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





nykobing said:


> My Ultron PCC189's arrived this morning and the one I put in sounds really nice just out of the box, no burn in. It sounds nothing like the Phillips 189 A Frame that a lot of people here bought for 6 or 7 dollars, I bought that one as well. That Phillips sounded kind of lifeless to me and I don't know how anyone could confuse the Ultron with it, unless Ultron sourced from adifferent suppliers for the PCC189. I don't know if the highs of the Ultron are as good as my Siemens 6dj8 or my RCA 6922 (US Amperex from 1962), but everything else about this tube is just as good as those two. I think the mids are better. It is really good with drums and sounds really nice now playing New Order's Technique. Did you find out anything else about who made this tube? The one I am playing now has no markings on the bottom, but one of them that came today has a "+". They also have the weakest glow of any tube I have ever seen. Thanks for the recommendation and maybe my PCC88 Ultron will come tomorrow.


 
   
  "_Ultron is a German (West) relabeler. They usually relabeled and marketed the tubes from European and Asian manufacturers._" These could be relabeled Siemens tubes or some Japanese tubes or who knows what. It would, however, make sense that they relabeled mostly German tubes? The main thing for me is that they sound good (and different than my other tubes). I also find the upper mids and highs to be slightly tamed on this tube, but for me it actually makes my cans less fatiguing with some music (my tube of choice for rock at the moment). I feel like this tube could be very specific to what kind of cans you have. So I'd say this tube has good synergy with brighter cans (AKG, Grado etc.). I also repeat myself by saying that this is not my best tube to watch dialogue heavy tv series. When watching "pawn stars", for example, (yeah I watch pawn stars ) I could hear the dialogue was not as strong as with orange globe.
   
  I see you have Siemens 6DJ8. I personally think it's a very nice tube.
   
  BTW *Coil* your Ultrons + A-frame globe + Surprise are on the way. Just dropped them to post office. The Ultrons I have have batch number of 50402. Nothing on the bottom though.


----------



## CoiL

Salvatore, where did you get your "German relabeled" info? They should be Hungarian as far as I know. 

 Thanks for posting update. Can`t wait for the surprise 
   

  Quote: 





coil said:


> The tube I`ve been using for longer time now has following markings:* Golden crown logo with Ultron SQ written in it, Larger PCC189 and smaller 7ES8 under it, vertically on the side of the tube is code 40811 and the usual factory code location it has DJF with V3B under it. *Second tube has exactly same markings.


 
   
  Nykobking, Salvatore & Bluesdaddy - can you give other markings from your tube(s)? Lets see if some of us has same batch tubes.
   
  Btw, seems that this 10x Ultron PCC189 lot has Ultrons with WHITE markings! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-TUBES-ULTRON-PCC189-NEW-ORIGINALBOX-/261194482336?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd06782a0

 My tubes have golden logo and markings, Crown logo has SQ and smaller silverish area on top of the tube! -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCC189-7ES8-NIB-2-PCS-AUDIO-TUBES-NOS-/321076193500?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&clk_rvr_id=467853878510&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=scU2jyHuX3P5FUga5NVlCuC%252FryU%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
   
  Guys, are we looking at many different types of Ultron PCC189`s ? ;(


----------



## Salvatore

Just browsed several random web pages. Nothing official but some of them say that Ultron was German company that relabeled tubes. This could also be misinformation because the original boxes are printed in West Germany (nothing in my tubes proof that the actual tubes are German made).
   
  These Ultrons have white text. Says Ultron in the crown with PCC189 and 7ES8 underneath (these seem to be the same tubes than in that link). Batch code is 50402, but no etchings / normal factory codes are to be found. I'm pretty sure we are looking at different tubes here. If this is indeed the case, then also the sound could be different. Well only couple of days and Coil can confirm if there is any differences in the sound. It could be that Coil's tube is better than this white label. At least according to his description. Lower batch number could also mean that the gold labels are older. Like I said I find this tube to be less analytical and layered as my best tubes, but has smooth (even soft) sound with slightly tamed upper mids / highs. All in all this tube fits nicely into my collection.


----------



## CoiL

Damn, just when I though I had discovered something good for all of you, this difference in tubes comes in play -.- . Well, lets see when I get the white Ultrons. Glad I have 2 of those gold labeled Ultrons. They really are very very good.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Damn, just when I though I had discovered something good for all of you, this difference in tubes comes in play -.- . Well, lets see when I get the white Ultrons. Glad I have 2 of those gold labeled Ultrons. They really are very very good.


 
  But it could explain why there are different reactions to the "same" tube. You and I had virtually the same reaction to the Amperex Orange Globe GAC and we could identify it as the same tube not only from their markings but from the physical makeup of the tube. Not so sure about the Ultron. I'm listening to some Jazz piano now (Oscar Petersen) using my K501s and the Ultron and just don't have that same "wow" factor as with either the Mullard or the GAC. Guess I need to swap back out just to make sure I still get it from those two tubes.


----------



## CoiL

Could be. But what markings your Ultron has?


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Could be. But what markings your Ultron has?


 
  Coil,
   
  These are about the best pics I can get. Halo getter, gold lettering.


----------



## CoiL

Hmmm, ok you have also golden logo Ultron and it looks same as I have but yours is coded 52502. Does it have any factory code @ usual place? The ones Salvatore is sending me are coded 50402. Wierd, because his tubes should be older batch if we consider that number but have white logo and markings.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Hmmm, ok you have also golden logo Ultron and it looks same as I have but yours is coded 52502. Does it have any factory code @ usual place? The ones Salvatore is sending me are coded 50402. Wierd, because his tubes should be older batch if we consider that number but have white logo and markings.


 
  Unfortunately the factory codes are mostly gone and what is left can barely be made out. I'm listening to my Mullard again, with Bill Evans just to validate that I still can hear what I thought I heard initially with this tube. It is, I believe, the best sounding tube I have. The bass extends just a bit more, with a tad more tightness than the GAC but still with a great mid range presentation. Nothing shrill or unpleasant about this tube at all!!


----------



## CoiL

Well, my opinion is still that GAC is better then Mullard ecc88, quite by large. Maybe its because my Mullard is starting to "wear out", it was used when I bought it. Also some of our different opinion might come from different gear and personal listening since we are also at different opinion about Philips pcc189 & Ultron pcc189.
   
  About Ultron, do you have something on the glass bottom beneath pins?


----------



## uncola

My T1 finally arrived!  This is my first headphone amp.  Actually I think I had a corda headsix I bought used off here years ago but I have absolutely no recollection of it.  It may never have arrived even.  I broke the plastic fences almost immediately.  I swear the feet are too big to fit in the holes.  Is the vacuum tube supposed to get hot?  I touched it and it's almost burning hot.  The sound is great, I'm using it at 0db gain with a 12 ohm impedence sony mdr-ma900 so far and it gets really loud.  It's nice not to have to run the headphone cord behind my desk to my pc on the floor.  The volume knob action is very smooth and feels solid.  The aluminum enclosure is probably the nicest looking out of anything I own.  The edges are so sharp.  
  edit:  man, it's nice to have some headroom on the volume for once


----------



## audiofrog

Has anyone tried the Monoprice 8323 with the Aune T1?  How does it sound?


----------



## nykobing

My ultron's look like http://www.ebay.com/itm/190815371234?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 if you use the firefox addon here, https://addons.mozilla.org/en-us/firefox/addon/ebay-item-description-save-enl/ you can see huge pics of them.  In the hi-res picture they look like someone put them together in their room, but they don't look so bad in person. There were no SQ, special quality, labels on any of them. I've listened to them a lot today and the reason I like them I think is that they provide all the detail of my Amperex Orange globe, bugle boy, etc without sounding so warm and in my grado's I can deal with them longer.


----------



## uncola

Hey guys, when you install the plastic fences, be careful not to crack them.  I'm not 100% sure, but I think the big one has to go from the front left to the right back..  the holes are specifically cut that way.  so the littler fence has to go from the front right to the back left first.  I'm emailing aune to see where the cheapest place to get replacements is.. maybe they'll just send me some.
  edit:  I'm probably wrong about tall/short fences only going in certain holes.  The main thing is to only push the fences downwards into the holes by pressing down on the top of them, DO NOT SQUEEZE them, it doesn't help them go in the holes.
  Do any of you guys have a slight hum/buzzing when not playing music?  I do have one.. I have a few things I can try to fix it like a different driver, or usb port.  maybe move power adapter around or use another 3.5 to 6.3mm adapter.


----------



## GaryPham

Does anyone know how much power the T1 outputs at 600 ohm?  The stats on ebay says it outputs 150mw at 300ohm, so logic would think that it does 75mw at 600, but from looking at other amp's specsheets, the math doesnt seem to always work out that easily.  Are there any official datasheets on this?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





nykobing said:


> My ultron's look like http://www.ebay.com/itm/190815371234?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 if you use the firefox addon here, https://addons.mozilla.org/en-us/firefox/addon/ebay-item-description-save-enl/ you can see huge pics of them.  In the hi-res picture they look like someone put them together in their room, but they don't look so bad in person. There were no SQ, special quality, labels on any of them. I've listened to them a lot today and the reason I like them I think is that they provide all the detail of my Amperex Orange globe, bugle boy, etc without sounding so warm and in my grado's I can deal with them longer.


 
  What!? Another version of Ultron PCC189 ? Yours has large O-ring getter and grey center plate! Totally different from my tube! But reading your description, sounds quite same as my Ultron.
   
  So far we seem to have 3 different Ultron PCC189 `s:
   
  1) With golden crown logo Ultron SQ written in it, metal vertical center plate, small o-ring getter.
  2) With white crown logo (without SQ), metal vertical center plate, type of getter - large?
  3) With white crown logo (without SQ), grey vertical center plate, large O-ring getter.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





garypham said:


> Does anyone know how much power the T1 outputs at 600 ohm?  The stats on ebay says it outputs 150mw at 300ohm, so logic would think that it does 75mw at 600, but from looking at other amp's specsheets, the math doesnt seem to always work out that easily.  Are there any official datasheets on this?


 
  Someone in here commented not long time ago:
   
   


> Finally got mine after a month and a half of wait. Right of of the box I was impressed. Mine came with the EH 6922 tube.
> 
> Now keep in mind I have 5 Dacs laying around here to compare it to.
> 
> ...


----------



## Salvatore

Grey shield large halo Ultron here. This seems to be really good tube also for EDM.
   
  Quote: 





uncola said:


> Is the vacuum tube supposed to get hot?  I touched it and it's almost burning hot.


 
   
  I've noticed that new tubes get really hot during the first couple of times you use them.


----------



## CoiL

I suspect that this grey plate large O-ring getter version might be relabeled Mullard PCC189 but no certain information on that. Anyway, seems to be great tube also. Will make head-to-head comparing with my Ultron.


----------



## buestad

About the three different Ultron PCC189 tubes. If you look at the lot of ten that *MacKajVah* bought there are three different boxes. Maybe he can confirm this when he gets them, and also if the tubes inside also differs accordingly. And If he can also compare the sound. Six of then have Special Quality printed on them, Two have PCC189 7ES8 and the last two only PCC189


----------



## CoiL

My Ultrons have SQ boxes with PCC189 7ES8.


----------



## Salvatore

That's interesting find. My box is like the lower middle one with both PCC189 and 7ES8 but no SQ.


----------



## buestad

Quote: 





uncola said:


> ...I broke the plastic fences almost immediately.  I swear the feet are too big to fit in the holes...
> 
> ...Is the vacuum tube supposed to get hot?  I touched it and it's almost burning hot...


 
   
  The plastic tube protectors have a tight fit inside the holes. First thing I did when I got the T1 was to file them down. I got two pairs, so if you broke one there should be a spare in the same bag... (I have the black version with 6922EH tube and 230v adapter)
   
  The tubes get hot. Som hotter than other. I depends on the filament current. I can pull out my tubes just after turning off the T1 with no problem using just my fingers.
  Look up Vacuum tube on Wikipedia...


----------



## uncola

I broke two small fences in a row so now I have two large ones :/ I got the silver T1 with 6922.  
  Anyone know if this tube is compatible with the T1?  
 NOS Amperex 6BA6 EF93 Tube. Orange Globe. Holland. TV-7 Tested STRONG! 1952  what specs should we look for to know if it will work?


----------



## MrEleventy

first post has a list of most of the tubes that will work in the t1


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> That's interesting find. My box is like the lower middle one with both PCC189 and 7ES8 but no SQ.


 
  Things seem to clear up! Wish I had all 3 of them to compare.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





uncola said:


> I broke two small fences in a row so now I have two large ones :/ I got the silver T1 with 6922.
> Anyone know if this tube is compatible with the T1?
> NOS Amperex 6BA6 EF93 Tube. Orange Globe. Holland. TV-7 Tested STRONG! 1952  what specs should we look for to know if it will work?


 
  Please read the thread. There is long list of tubes that will fit for Aune T1 but not this tube you mentioned! And it`s not only about what will fit, you should search for impressions about tube you want to buy.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





coil said:


> Well, my opinion is still that GAC is better then Mullard ecc88, quite by large. Maybe its because my Mullard is starting to "wear out", it was used when I bought it. Also some of our different opinion might come from different gear and personal listening since we are also at different opinion about Philips pcc189 & Ultron pcc189.
> 
> About Ultron, do you have something on the glass bottom beneath pins?


 
  I agree. Also different ears! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Just took a look and there is nothing on the glass between the pins (i.e. the area around which the pins are situated in the bottom of the tube) - just clear glass.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





buestad said:


> The plastic tube protectors have a tight fit inside the holes. First thing I did when I got the T1 was to file them down. I got two pairs, so if you broke one there should be a spare in the same bag... (I have the black version with 6922EH tube and 230v adapter)


 
   
  I haven't even tried using the plastic protectors since installing the stock tube and listening for the first time. I start to install them, immediately ran into problems and realized I would either break the protectors or the tube and gave up. Since I swap out tubes so frequently and have no small children, it is not an issue for me to not use them.


----------



## OrangeTimer

Quote: 





coil said:


> Someone in here commented not long time ago:


 
   
  Quote: 





lwrs10 said:


> Finally got mine after a month and a half of wait. Right of of the box I was impressed. Mine came with the EH 6922 tube.
> 
> Now keep in mind I have 5 Dacs laying around here to compare it to.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Thank you for finding that. I thought I was going insane and I had made that post up when I couldn't find it again!
   
  So just as I suspected. These will drive the most planar magnetics just fine


----------



## GaryPham

Quote: 





orangetimer said:


> Thank you for finding that. I thought I was going insane and I had made that post up when I couldn't find it again!
> 
> So just as I suspected. These will drive the most planar magnetics just fine


 

 I don't want to question lwrs10's calculating skills, but aren't his measured numbers a bit unreasonable?  I know that most expensive full sized desktop amps can only output maybe 3-5 watts into a 32ohm load, so isn't 15watts for our little T1 a bit ridiculous?


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> And it`s not only about what will fit, you should search for impressions about tube you want to buy.




 this! you should definitely research to make sure the tube you want pairs well with the rest of your equipment. like amperex orange globe fixes a lot of issues that I had with the dt 990s.


----------



## OrangeTimer

Quote: 





garypham said:


> I don't want to question lwrs10's calculating skills, but aren't his measured numbers a bit unreasonable?  I know that most expensive full sized desktop amps can only output maybe 3-5 watts into a 32ohm load, so isn't 15watts for our little T1 a bit ridiculous?


 
   
  I was thinking something similar so I'm checking with lwrs10 as to how he got those results and if there's any way for me to replicate them. I would love to confirm lwrs10's testing method. I'm genuinely curious as to how much power the T1 outputs compared to say a Magni or Lyr, and the way I see it, who needs a Lyr if the T1 outputs that much wattage


----------



## audiofrog

I just put in my order on ebay
   
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-DAC-Hi-Fi-Pre-amp-Audio-Amp-24Bit-96KHz-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-/130889822865?pt=Home_Automation_Kits&hash=item1e79a43291
   
$59.70​ including shipping!  Lets hope this order goes well!


----------



## uncola

Haha if you look at his feedback, there's like 20 feedbacks from "usasellershop" about a charge cord.
  Nonetheless I couldn't pass it up and tried to order 2 of them.  Let's see what happens.. I guess paypal protection will refund our money if he never ships.
  In other news I ordered 8 used[size=14.399999618530273px]* *voshkod 6n23p from ukraine.. hope this goes well [/size]


----------



## audiofrog

I was thinking the same thing about ebay buyer protection. And, for $60, really can't lose.
   
  I'm using an old creative x-mod external sound card that I've had for years, but have been looking for an upgrade to a dac/amp combo. This seems to be the best thing out there from what I could find for the money.  Let me know if you find any good deals on replacement tubes.  And PM me when/if you get Aune T1.
   
  -AudioFrog


----------



## OrangeTimer

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> I just put in my order on ebay
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-DAC-Hi-Fi-Pre-amp-Audio-Amp-24Bit-96KHz-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-/130889822865?pt=Home_Automation_Kits&hash=item1e79a43291
> 
> $59.70​ including shipping!  Lets hope this order goes well!


 
   
  Dunno man, that deal seems to good to be true. And they appear to have taken the images off this posting http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aune-T1-24Bit-96KHz-DAC-Hi-Fi-Preamp-Audio-Decoder-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-/200850603662 which makes no sense as they could've taken them off the Aune site instead. If you payed by paypal I'd check that user for negative feedback before the "45 day payment dispute" mark so you can lodge a complaint if need be. Other than that, looks to be a bargain! I'm really tempted to get another one for the office.


----------



## MrEleventy

If you guys actually receive yours, I'm buying another.


----------



## uncola

Yah I'll definitely post here and PM.  I'm thinking.. why would he charge a realistic $50 shipping if it's a scam?  I noticed he stole his product images from "penny buying" ebay user [size=small]pbuying.usa[/size]


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





uncola said:


> Yah I'll definitely post here and PM.  I'm thinking.. why would he charge a realistic $50 shipping if it's a scam?  I noticed he stole his product images from "penny buying" ebay user [size=small]pbuying.usa[/size]


 
  I wasnt too concerned with stealing the image.  Maybe it's easier to do that than go on the aune site?  It'll be interesting to see what happens, whether it ships, whether it gets cancelled, or whether it just never arrives and we have to ask for a refund.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> If you guys actually receive yours, I'm buying another.


 
   
  Yeah same here. One for my wife (and then sell my E17). *Audiofrog*, let us know how the purchase goes.


----------



## HPiper

That deal is very odd, I was looking at that very unit today on ebay and as I recall the prices I was seeing were around $140 with free shipping but that is still about double what you paid. I hope it works out for you but sounds a bit shady to me.


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Yeah same here. One for my wife (and then sell my E17). *Audiofrog*, let us know how the purchase goes.


 
  will do.


----------



## GaryPham

I also couldn't resist and placed an order in for this.  today I got an email saying that my item has been shipped and it gave me a tracking #.  Let's hope that the package doesn't contain just a picture of an Aune T1 =p


----------



## CoiL

And when it does contain only picture... I feel sorry for all of you. Can`t belive that Aune T1 would sell so cheap. Must be stolen or won stuff or something, it`s way under manufacturing cost. And if you do get it, please open it to see if everything is legit inside Aune T1! Even if working somehow, might be stuffed with other cheap dac/amp to get more money. I`m very suspicious about this deal.


----------



## pfreshwes

The deal does sound too good to be true, but I ended up purchasing one anyway.  Looks like there is only 4 more available


----------



## Salvatore

Yeah they could be refurbished, stolen or even fakes. Somebody should contact them and ask how such low price is even possible? Like I said, I'll definitely jump into this if legit.
   
  E: They have many items going for $10 and they are playing with shipping costs. I'm calling these stolen products.


----------



## uncola

I have a very slight hum on my T1..  is there any trick I can try to remove it?  I'm using 0db unity gain.. I tried a few things.. a new usb cable..  tried plugging the usb cable into my monitors usb hub instead of directly to the pc.  I also tried using 3.5mm output of my soundcard to the rca inputs on the t1.  I tried using a different 3.5 to 6.5mm headphone adapter.. no change.  Since I bypassed the tube when using the 3.5mm to rca input, that means it's not the tube right?  I guess it's just something that's part of the headphone amp?  The hum is more noticeable on my closed ultrasones and my yuin pk2 earbuds than my open sony mdrma900.  It's a little disappointing because plugging my headphones directly into my soundcard doesn't have any hum and it's integrated onto the motherboard
  edit:  is it worth it to try plugging the power adapter into a different wall socket?


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





uncola said:


> I have a very slight hum on my T1..  is there any trick I can try to remove it?  I'm using 0db unity gain.. I tried a few things.. a new usb cable..  tried plugging the usb cable into my monitors usb hub instead of directly to the pc.  I also tried using 3.5mm output of my soundcard to the rca inputs on the t1.  I tried using a different 3.5 to 6.5mm headphone adapter.. no change.  Since I bypassed the tube when using the 3.5mm to rca input, that means it's not the tube right?  I guess it's just something that's part of the headphone amp?  The hum is more noticeable on my closed ultrasones and my yuin pk2 earbuds than my open sony mdrma900.  It's a little disappointing because plugging my headphones directly into my soundcard doesn't have any hum and it's integrated onto the motherboard
> edit:  is it worth it to try plugging the power adapter into a different wall socket?


 
  Might as well give it a shot. Go ahead and pull the tube out and try to listen to make sure it's not the tube.


----------



## uncola

That solved it.  Removing the tube eliminated the hum.  I tested it multiple times and the hum always came back when the tube was inserted, both when using the usb input and when using rca in put.  So weird that even when not using the tube dac and only using the rca input, I still got the hum when the tube was inserted.  Does that sound possible?  Should using another tube help with the hum issue?
  edit: I'm using very low impedance headphones btw.  64 ohms ultrasone, 12 ohms sony, not sure what the yuin pk2 are


----------



## CoiL

What tube are you using atm? 6922EH ? Try another tube, it might be faulty tube or is your unit near/close to any electrical stuff? One member here had also hum problem but it came from static electricity because of being too close to electrical equipment and after grounding it was ok.


----------



## uncola

yep it's a eh 6922.  I just tried moving the power brick to the other side of the room away from everything, no change.  I also noticed that if I increase the gain to 10, the hum is louder.  I'll just wait til my voshkod tubes arrive and see if they have the same problem.  I have a feeling it's not the tube, because when bypassing the tube dac and using line in, it still has it.  I can live with it i guess
  Maybe I am a "goldenears" after all and every t1 has it but only I can hear it


----------



## CoiL

My T1 doesn`t have any hum for sure! Only with certain tubes which have thin glass tend to hum only very very littlebit when the volume knob is turned to MAX and nothing is playing. And I didn`t mean power brick about that electricity, I meant placing Aune T1 for example too close to monitor. Also you should check your wall sockets grounding. Another chance is that your PC USB ports have somekind of ground issue. Try to cut off +5VSB pin at the end of PC side of the USB cable, Aune T1 doesn`t draw any power from USB. It is one of the first things I did with my new foil shielded shorter cable (not that I had any problems with stock cable). Also, it might be that you have faulty power-brick.
  If problem stays after all those things, I would send that unit back to seller and ask for replacement. It`s not how Aune T1 should sound & work.


----------



## buestad

Try bypassing the tube using the aux in with the tube pulled out


----------



## CoiL

buestad, read carefully, he did it already!


----------



## uncola

Using the aux in with the tube pulled out fixes it.. but as soon as the tube goes back in, even while still using aux instead of usb, the hum comes back.  I don't think it's my pc usb ports because I tried running the usb cable to my monitor's usb port hub and hum was still there.  I have moved the t1 away from my monitor and tried a power socket in a different area of the room..  I'm going to try it with my other computer, a laptop far away from any other electronics.
  Coil that's interesting that you say you sometimes get hum at max volume.. I've noticed the volume knob doesn't affect the hum at all
  edit: same hum with the laptop in the bathroom.  The shipping cost to send it back is probably about the same as I paid for the 2 shady T1's on ebay.. so I'm gonna wait and see if a new tube fixes it.. hopefully shipping from the ukraine is fast, that's where my voshkod are coming from


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





uncola said:


> Coil that's interesting that you say you sometimes get hum at max volume.. I've noticed the volume knob doesn't affect the hum at all


 
  Hmmm, then it must be something wrong inside the aune or tube is bad. Can`t think of anything else because it doesn`t seem to be tube microphonics due to thin glass like in my case with some tubes. I`m guessing it`s bad tube (shortage, leak etc.).


----------



## nykobing

Quote: 





coil said:


> I suspect that this grey plate large O-ring getter version might be relabeled Mullard PCC189 but no certain information on that. Anyway, seems to be great tube also. Will make head-to-head comparing with my Ultron.


 
  I don't see any Mullard markings on it or anything from the Phillips plants, no Siemens markings either. I have a Mullard 6dj8 and it doesn't sound like it at all. My Ultron PCC88 should arrive tomorrow. I ordered a Tungsgram E88CC, maybe it is something like that, but it has been almost a month and still has not arrived from Bulgaria, according to Bulgarian post office it is "Insert item into bag (Otb) and Send item abroad."


----------



## kobetastic

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> I just put in my order on ebay
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-DAC-Hi-Fi-Pre-amp-Audio-Amp-24Bit-96KHz-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-/130889822865?pt=Home_Automation_Kits&hash=item1e79a43291
> 
> $59.70​ including shipping!  Lets hope this order goes well!


 
  price dropped to $9.80, assuming these are fake...


----------



## laon

Quote: 





kobetastic said:


> price dropped to $9.80, assuming these are fake...


 

 It's always been $9.80 there.


----------



## kobetastic

Oh oops, assumed it was $59.70. ​


----------



## laon

Like other member said the seller play around with the shipping cost to get most of his profit, FWIW T1 sells for about $100 on taobao, you could probably get it even cheaper offline in china but probably not $60 cheap, not including international shipping. So at best those T1 on ebay are refurbished unit and at worst, different el cheapo tube dac model.
   
  That said I couldn't resist the temptation.


----------



## uncola

heh Aune got back to me, $2 for the fences but $20 for ems shipping.. I think I'll just use the tube without protection


----------



## buestad

coil said:


> buestad, read carefully, he did it already!


 
  Wops, read it to fast 
   
   



uncola said:


> ...hopefully shipping from the ukraine is fast, that's where my voshkod are coming from


 
   
  I just got a pair of 6N23P voshkod from Ukraine. It took exacly one week (to Norway)


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





laon said:


> Like other member said the seller play around with the shipping cost to get most of his profit, FWIW T1 sells for about $100 on taobao, you could probably get it even cheaper offline in china but probably not $60 cheap, not including international shipping. So at best those T1 on ebay are refurbished unit and at worst, different el cheapo tube dac model.
> 
> That said I couldn't resist the temptation.


 
  The cheapest I saw was 660 Yen, which is about $106 US. They've got to add in shipping, and to the US $50 is about right, maybe a little less. Seems about the cheapest legitimate you can get is in the $135 to $150 range. I'll be interested in see what the folks get for $60.  To be honest, I paid $160 for mine and don't feel one bit bad about it.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





nykobing said:


> I don't see any Mullard markings on it or anything from the Phillips plants, no Siemens markings either. I have a Mullard 6dj8 and it doesn't sound like it at all. My Ultron PCC88 should arrive tomorrow. I ordered a Tungsgram E88CC, maybe it is something like that, but it has been almost a month and still has not arrived from Bulgaria, according to Bulgarian post office it is "Insert item into bag (Otb) and Send item abroad."


 
  There probably are no markings because it`s relabeled. And I was talking about PCC189 not 6DJ8, of course they are different sounding tubes.


----------



## fijiboatman

Quote: 





morebass said:


> I own a T1 and am very happy with it as a dac.  When i bought it i knew the tube *wasn't *part of the headphone amp section, but the manual it comes with does specifically say "tube headphone amp" in it


 
  Can someone explain what that means exactly?  If the tube is part of the usb dac functioning does that mean the tube has nothing to do with the headphone amp?  I want to purchase one of these to use with my headphones and eventually will use the dac to connect a pair of krk rokit 5's.  I know that'll be fine because the krk's are powered, but will the tube limit what I can use on the t1's output line?


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





fijiboatman said:


> Can someone explain what that means exactly?  If the tube is part of the usb dac functioning does that mean the tube has nothing to do with the headphone amp?  I want to purchase one of these to use with my headphones and eventually will use the dac to connect a pair of krk rokit 5's.  I know that'll be fine because the krk's are powered, but will the tube limit what I can use on the t1's output line?


 
  The T1 is a DAC with Tube buffer that feeds into a headphone amp. If you use the line in only, then the Tube does not come into play. The tube is not part of the amplification signal path.


----------



## buestad

I guess I have to eat a few of my words now after recieving the Voskhod 6N23P tube and doing som more listening. I certanly can hear the difference in sound, but like *Blues Daddy* says it's subtle. This is like wine tasting actually. I'll have to learn it by trying. I will be careful to point out what the differences are yet, but I have to correct myself about the openness/soundstage in the Phillips PCC189. And like I learned form *Salvatore*, listen to one thing at the time while doing A/B rolls makes it easier to hear the difference.
   
  In my terms I find that the 6N23P is more "fun" to listen to, and the PCC189, in some genres of music, more relaxing to listen to. Looking forward to learn more


----------



## Salvatore

Yes that's how it is. There are definitely differences, but they can be very subtle indeed. Sometimes I hear the differences very clearly and sometimes everything sounds the same. I've learned that you don't want to do critical listening if a) sick or b) tired. You might also want to listen one tube for a while before rolling. This way your brain gets used to the sound and the differences could be a lot easier to observe. Oh and maybe you should try combining tube rolling with wine tasting. Some tubes might go better with certain wines. At least it's fun with special beers, lol


----------



## buestad

Last week was probably not my best then. I was beginning to get sick and had my head full at work. I was actually home sick saturday throug tuesday this week..
   
  I'll guess that combining vine tasting and tube rolling will go in favor of the last tube tested regardless of which it is


----------



## fijiboatman

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> The T1 is a DAC with Tube buffer that feeds into a headphone amp. If you use the line in only, then the Tube does not come into play. The tube is not part of the amplification signal path.


 
  Okay so can I still use the rca out to a pair of monitors while using the dac with usb?  If so can I use my headphones and monitors at the same time while on usb setting, or will one override the other?  If so I guess I could just unplug whichever I'm not using?  Really I'm only going to be using the usb setting on this dac/amp.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





buestad said:


> I'll guess that combining vine tasting and tube rolling will go in favor of the last tube tested regardless of which it is


 
   
  That's a good one mate


----------



## MrEleventy

fijiboatman said:


> Okay so can I still use the rca out to a pair of monitors while using the dac with usb?  If so can I use my headphones and monitors at the same time while on usb setting, or will one override the other?  If so I guess I could just unplug whichever I'm not using?  Really I'm only going to be using the usb setting on this dac/amp.


You can use both the headphone out and the line out at once. I just tried it out. Had my DT880s plugged into O2 via lineout and plugged in DT770s into the T1's hp out. Both were outputting.


----------



## fijiboatman

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> You can use both the headphone out and the line out at once. I just tried it out. Had my DT880s plugged into O2 via lineout and plugged in DT770s into the T1's hp out. Both were outputting.


 
  Very nice, I can't wait to get mine now!


----------



## BigCabDaddy

So I bit on one of those cheapo T1s on eBay. We shall see what we shall see. Assuming it's legit, what should I be looking at for my first couple tubes and where should I be procuring them?


----------



## nykobing

Quote: 





coil said:


> There probably are no markings because it`s relabeled. And I was talking about PCC189 not 6DJ8, of course they are different sounding tubes.


 

 All my relabeled tubes have markings on them. I have a Zaerix with Mullard markings, two RCA's with Siemens markings and a RCA that has the Phillips factory code on them and a RCA 6922 that has the USA AMmperex markings/dates on them. I was under the impression that the tubes were made, then restamped with label markings.


----------



## spongeworthy

Does anyone else's T1 get burning hot to the touch?


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





spongeworthy said:


> Does anyone else's T1 get burning hot to the touch?


 
  It does get hot but not to the extent of scalding. Tubes do warm up a lot, but that's just how they work. They're like mini light bulbs.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Yes that's how it is. There are definitely differences, but they can be very subtle indeed. Sometimes I hear the differences very clearly and sometimes everything sounds the same. I've learned that you don't want to do critical listening if a) sick or b) tired. You might also want to listen one tube for a while before rolling. This way your brain gets used to the sound and the differences could be a lot easier to observe. Oh and maybe you should try combining tube rolling with wine tasting. Some tubes might go better with certain wines. At least it's fun with special beers, lol


 
   
   
  Sooooo true !


----------



## uncola

My T1 eh 6922 tube gets really hot, but not quite burning..  the amp itself doesn't get hot at all.. it's barely warm.. I use it at 0db gain though
  Quote: 





spongeworthy said:


> Does anyone else's T1 get burning hot to the touch?


----------



## spongeworthy

Hmm. It's not just the tube however, the actual unit itself gets pretty hot. I can tell as soon as I touch the knob, this thing is putting out some serious heat!


----------



## d4rin

Has anyone tried this AMP/DAC with the Grado Alessandro MS-1? 
   
  Really interested in this little unit for desktop use.


----------



## GaryPham

Quote: 





spongeworthy said:


> Hmm. It's not just the tube however, the actual unit itself gets pretty hot. I can tell as soon as I touch the knob, this thing is putting out some serious heat!


 

 The unit definitely gets warm, and the knob gets a little warm too but i wouldn't say "hot".  The tube itself gets hot enough to burn your finger if u touch it for more than a few seconds though.


----------



## GaryPham

Between the Amperex Orange Globe and the Ultron PCC189, which would you guys said is the warmer/more laid back tube?  I'm using the Orange globe with my DT880's right now which has tamed down the highs a good amount, but was wondering if the Ultron can make it even more laid back(less fatiguing).


----------



## luis3141

Hello everyone, this is a great thread! I want  to thank the OP and everyone who contributed to this thread, after reading all of it (well, kind of) i have decided to purchase an Aune T1 (actually i decided after the first few pages lol).
   
  I am also getting the Audioengine A2 Powered Desktop Speakers, anybody listened to them through the Aune T1? any comments on that?
   
  I have a couple of questions for the tube rolling enthusiasts: i have the possibility to get some NOS "EL MENCO" E188CC (made in Holland by Philips) SQ (special quality) tubes. If i am right and the information regarding this tubes is correct, those should be some excellent sounding tubes right? As far as i could gather, EL MENCO just rebranded tubes and they should be the same as Philips branded. or am i completely wrong?
   
  Haltron E88CC gold pin and JJ E88CC are far inferior tubes right? probably not worth the buy? They definetly are far less expensive thou.
   
  Any feedback would be appreciated.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





garypham said:


> Between the Amperex Orange Globe and the Ultron PCC189, which would you guys said is the warmer/more laid back tube?  I'm using the Orange globe with my DT880's right now which has tamed down the highs a good amount, but was wondering if the Ultron can make it even more laid back(less fatiguing).


 
  IMO, the Orange Globe is a head above the Ultron.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





luis3141 said:


> Hello everyone, this is a great thread! I want  to thank the OP and everyone who contributed to this thread, after reading all of it (well, kind of) i have decided to purchase an Aune T1 (actually i decided after the first few pages lol).
> 
> I am also getting the Audioengine A2 Powered Desktop Speakers, anybody listened to them through the Aune T1? any comments on that?
> 
> ...


 
  If they are Holland SQ, they should be excellent. How do you know they are re-branded?  I'd just be careful with some tube sellers, not all of them are as honest as one might hope!


----------



## luis3141

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> If they are Holland SQ, they should be excellent. How do you know they are re-branded?  I'd just be careful with some tube sellers, not all of them are as honest as one might hope!


 
   
   
  Thanks for the reply. Yes, i will look into it more carefully before purchasing, just wanted to hear the opinion of the "experts".
   
  I couldnt find much information about EL MENCO, but apparently they didnt make the tubes, they just re-branded them. http://pax-comm.com/pa01016.htm
   
  Here is a picture of the aformentioned tube: http://img1.mlstatic.com/valvula-electronica-vacuum-tube-e188cc-7308-cv4108-ecc88_MLA-O-106501058_4591.jpg


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> IMO, the Orange Globe is a head above the Ultron.


 
  IMHO, It`s opposite, Orange GAC sometimes gets too fatiguing with its too mellow & warm sound. Highs on Ultron (gold label) PCC189 are not tamed down but not harsh either, just in right place. I would say orange & ultron are quite on same par, depending on music. For me, Ultron PCC189 is littlebit more musical and enjoyable.
   
  Still haven`t received my White labeled Ultron PCC189`s and A-Frame Orange from Salvatore.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





garypham said:


> Between the Amperex Orange Globe and the Ultron PCC189, which would you guys said is the warmer/more laid back tube?  I'm using the Orange globe with my DT880's right now which has tamed down the highs a good amount, but was wondering if the Ultron can make it even more laid back(less fatiguing).


 
   
  It's not yet clear if there is any sonical differences between different Ultrons, but I have found my Ultron to be slightly less fatiguing than my orange globe (especially with rock).
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> Still haven`t received my White labeled Ultron PCC189`s and A-Frame Orange from Salvatore.


 
   
  This is definitely a bummer. I was hoping you get the package this week. Maybe it's because of the economy shipping.


----------



## uncola

Most amps have much lower gain than the 10 and 16db the aune t1 offers..  why is that?  Does that mean this amp is for super low sensitivity high impedeance headphones?  I'm using it at 0db gain with my 64 and 12 ohm headphones with no problems other than slight hum which might be from my tube.. my new tubes should arrive soon


----------



## teb1013

Just ordered the Aune T1 from Amazon (through Pennybuying) for $149.99. Not the best deal I've seen, but better than most. Estimated delivery date isn't until May 15, however. I have been playing music through Senn 558s through a Fiio E7 from an iPad 3 through the CCK. I understand, however that the T1 DAC runs off of the USB and not off of the mains. Due to the ios' power limitation, I assume that I will need to use aa powered hub. Is this correct? I have ordered the basic T1 with the stock tube. I assume that I will burn the unit in with the stock tubes. Can someone recommend a basic inexpensive upgrade tube. I have done much reading on this and the tube rolling threads, but would lika to know if there is an agreed upon first step up tube.

Thanks.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> It's not yet clear if there is any sonical differences between different Ultrons, but I have found my Ultron to be slightly less fatiguing than my orange globe (especially with rock).


 
   
  I'd say that it's not actually clear that everything labeled an Ultron is the same tube. Coil and I have markedly different opinions regarding the Ultron vis. the Amperex GAC and the Mullards. Honestly, I'd put my Voskhods ahead of the Phillips PCC189 and the Ultron in terms of musicality (a hard term to define, but by it I mean less fatiguing and more listenable over longer periods of time).


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





garypham said:


> The unit definitely gets warm, and the knob gets a little warm too but i wouldn't say "hot".  The tube itself gets hot enough to burn your finger if u touch it for more than a few seconds though.


 
  I've had mine on a few hours and it is hardly warm beyond the tube. Of course, it is situated on the top of my equipment rack so there's no heat build up around it.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> Just ordered the Aune T1 from Amazon (through Pennybuying) for $149.99. Not the best deal I've seen, but better than most. Estimated delivery date isn't until May 15, however. I have been playing music through Senn 558s through a Fiio E7 from an iPad 3 through the CCK. I understand, however that the T1 DAC runs off of the USB and not off of the mains. Due to the ios' power limitation, I assume that I will need to use aa powered hub. Is this correct? I have ordered the basic T1 with the stock tube. I assume that I will burn the unit in with the stock tubes. Can someone recommend a basic inexpensive upgrade tube. I have done much reading on this and the tube rolling threads, but would lika to know if there is an agreed upon first step up tube.
> 
> Thanks.


 
  I think this is a pretty good price. When I bought mine, Pennybuying was the cheapest I could find at $160. It was going for right around the equivalent of $200 in the UK at that time. A week or two later Pennybuying had dropped its price to $139. My only regret is that I could have used that $21 to buy another tube or two. I don't trust the super low price on ebay, but we'll see. Hope it works out for those who bought at that price.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


>


 
  Like I´ve said many times already, depends on music, hearing, taste, equipment etc. Not that I want to be "better" or something but ppl seem to agree more with my opinion.


----------



## uncola

teb, pretty sure the dac gets it's power from the wall wart


----------



## CoiL

Aune T1 doesn`t draw any power from USB for sure! I cut off the +5VSB pin at the PC end of the USB cable to avoid signal disturbances.


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> Aune T1 doesn`t draw any power from USB for sure! I cut off the +5VSB pin at the PC end of the USB cable to avoid signal disturbances.




Thanks for the information. This means that the set up I have used with the E7 should work with the T1.


----------



## buestad

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> ..Can someone recommend a basic inexpensive upgrade tube. I have done much reading on this and the tube rolling threads, but would lika to know if there is an agreed upon first step up tube.
> 
> Thanks.


 
   
  I would go for a Voskhod 6N23P (rocket logo). It's relatively cheap, easy to get your hands on and it sounds good


----------



## d4rin

So the only way to use the DAC+Tube on this is if you are using the Souncard via USB?
   
  And not via the in's and out's?
   
  I don't like the sounds of that...


----------



## MrEleventy

then get a tube amp instead of a tube dac.

the out uses the tube tho as long as the source is usb. it's not a tube amp or pre buffer


----------



## d4rin

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> then get a tube amp instead of a tube dac.
> 
> the out uses the tube tho as long as the source is usb. it's not a tube amp or pre buffer


 
   
  Yeah, Think I'd rather get a tube amp and a DAC.
   
  Nice little amp though!


----------



## CoiL

Just received my White labeled Ultrons and 2 Amperex A-frame oranges! WOOT! ;P
  Will burn them for a week and then start comparing with Amperex GAC and Gold labeled Ultron.
   
  First impressions about white ultrons - great tubes but have to burn them littlebit. I might be wrong but first listen tells me that white ones might have tinybit less tight bass & kick. Otherwise seem same as gold labeled. I certainly recommend them! For 6€ those white ones are also total steal like gold labeled! 
   
  Btw, one of my white Ultrons have very weird shaped glass, 1st like that in my collection. The other looks internally same but glass is same shaped as usual tubes. 
   
  Anyway, now I certainly have lots of great tubes for a looooooong time.
  My tube hoarding ends here and now with total *22* tubes! O_o


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Btw, one of my white Ultrons have very weird shaped glass, 1st like that in my collection. The other looks internally same but glass is same shaped as usual tubes.


 
   
  Maybe it is relabeled pinched waist amperex xD


----------



## GaryPham

Coil, do you happen to have an extra Ultron that you could possibly spare to sell to me? I'd not, can you show me where I can get one for a good price? I can't seem to find one on eBay at the moment and definitely would like to get one to complement my orange globe


----------



## CoiL

From EU - Uraltone or Electols but you have to oder with minimum sum or quantity limitation. Don`t know abaout US offers. 
  I think I will not sell any of my tubes, sorry! I bought all of them with backup purpose (2pcs each) and for different genres/setup needs. But you could create joint-order with some head-fi members I think.


----------



## GaryPham

Coil, I noticed from one of your old posts that you also had the Mullard PCC189.  how does this compare to the ultrons?  Seems like the Mullards are the only affordable alternatives that I can find right now on ebay and was wondering if they were similar.


----------



## CoiL

Damn, don`t remember all those tube descriptions from the head anymore 
 But... Mullard PCC189 is similiar to 6N23P reflector. Smaller type, intimate & warm soundstage. Should be good for blues but don`t listen to it much. Try to search more of my comments about this tube. And btw, there are 2 different types of Mullard PCC189, one is yellow old style logo and another is white old style logo. 
   
  Versus Ultron - no competition imho, Ultrons are way better. But this is only my opinion. Mullard PCC189 should be quite hard to get from eBay cheaply.
   
  e: I would search for Philips PCC189 (Holland). Unfortunately all those philips`s I recommended are gone. 
   
  e2: oh, wait, you already have orange? then Philips PCC189 is not worth getting. Tubes that I personally consider to be in "orange league" are Amperex GAC, Ultron PCC189 and Miniwatt-Dario PCC189.
   
   



salvatore said:


> Maybe it is relabeled pinched waist amperex xD


 
  Btw, it`s not pinched waist but pinched base! Glass looks something like this: http://www.tube-classics.de/TC/Tubes/SieTel%20ECC81/ECC812.jpg

   
  One more difference between gold label ultron and white label ultron - last one has copper pins inside tube. Gold label has metal pins. Also , my white label ultrons have A letter pressed on the inner side of the glass bottom.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Btw, it`s not pinched waist but pinched base! Glass looks something like this: http://www.tube-classics.de/TC/Tubes/SieTel%20ECC81/ECC812.jpg


 
   
  Interesting. Somehow I didn't notice that. Need to check my Ultrons.
   
  By the way, it seems that *toschek* is selling some of his tubes + other stuff like dampers and socket savers. His sales thread can be found here.


----------



## Tushma

Is possible to use t1 dac as no usb dac?


----------



## MrEleventy

tushma said:


> Is possible to use t1 dac as no usb dac?



no. dac portion only accepts usb. line in goes through the internal amp only.


----------



## toschek

FYI - http://www.head-fi.org/t/660987/preamp-toobs-for-sale


----------



## BigCabDaddy

salvatore said:


> Interesting. Somehow I didn't notice that. Need to check my Ultrons.
> 
> By the way, it seems that *toschek* is selling some of his tubes + other stuff like dampers and socket savers. His sales thread can be found here.




Which ones would fit the T1. Only the one Amperex?


----------



## FinalAura

Hey guys, I have a couple of questions.
   
  1. Would this be an upgrade from the udac (1st gen, not udac2). Mine is starting to bite the dust and im looking for a new dac.
   
  2. I mostly listen to music through my KRK studio monitors, and what I liked about the udac was that i could connect them to my speakers using RCA, then if I wanted to use headphones, i could switch quiite easily. It also had volume control which allowed me to control the volume on both the monitors or the headphones (ath m50). From my understanding, this unit does not control the volume on the line out right? If not, can the volume be controlled through windows? I can't think of any solution to this if not..
   
  Thanks guys


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





finalaura said:


> Hey guys, I have a couple of questions.
> 
> 1. Would this be an upgrade from the udac (1st gen, not udac2). Mine is starting to bite the dust and im looking for a new dac.
> 
> ...


 
  1: I don't know, haven't tried them
   
  2: I'm running on Windows 7, yes you can control the volume from windows or music player (iTunes, Mediamonkey, Foobar, etc). But I'm not sure about other windows version.


----------



## MrEleventy

bigcabdaddy said:


> Which ones would fit the T1. Only the one Amperex?




A lot of them will, the 6DJ8s, 6922s, PCC189. 

Dunno about the PCC88. PCC88s will works too.

6SN7 is a definite no.


----------



## cheuh

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> I just put in my order on ebay
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aune-T1-DAC-Hi-Fi-Pre-amp-Audio-Amp-24Bit-96KHz-6N11-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-/130889822865?pt=Home_Automation_Kits&hash=item1e79a43291
> 
> $59.70​ including shipping!  Lets hope this order goes well!


 
   
  Quote: 





uncola said:


> Yah I'll definitely post here and PM.  I'm thinking.. why would he charge a realistic $50 shipping if it's a scam?  I noticed he stole his product images from "penny buying" ebay user [size=small]pbuying.usa[/size]


 
   
  Quote: 





garypham said:


> I also couldn't resist and placed an order in for this.  today I got an email saying that my item has been shipped and it gave me a tracking #.  Let's hope that the package doesn't contain just a picture of an Aune T1 =p


 
   
  Quote: 





pfreshwes said:


> The deal does sound too good to be true, but I ended up purchasing one anyway.  Looks like there is only 4 more available


 
   
   
  Has anyone gotten a valid tracking number or a response from the seller: starslove?
   
  It seems like there were 30 of them that were sold. I received a tracking code, but it seems to be fake and not showing up any updated information. I also tried sending a message to the seller asking about the Aune T1, and did NOT receive any response.
   
  The seller has also changed his feedback profile to "Private" so no one can see them:
*Private Feedback - *This member, starslove, has decided to make his/her Feedback comments private. Feedback can still be left for this user and the Feedback ratings left are shown above in summary format. Learn more about private Feedback.
   
  Do you think this is a scam? Or should we wait it out a little longer?


----------



## GaryPham

Quote: 





cheuh said:


> Has anyone gotten a valid tracking number or a response from the seller: starslove?
> 
> It seems like there were 30 of them that were sold. I received a tracking code, but it seems to be fake and not showing up any updated information. I also tried sending a message to the seller asking about the Aune T1, and did NOT receive any response.
> 
> ...


 
   
  I also received tracking # from starslove.  It also hasn't been showing any updated information but from my knowledge, these chinese parcel posts often don't update too often.  My predicted delivery date is april 23rd to may 2nd though, so I'll definitely let you guys know if it arrives or not.  If not, it's just a little more than a week left until I start complaining to paypal =p


----------



## cheuh

Quote: 





garypham said:


> I also received tracking # from starslove.  It also hasn't been showing any updated information but from my knowledge, these chinese parcel posts often don't update too often.  My predicted delivery date is april 23rd to may 2nd though, so I'll definitely let you guys know if it arrives or not.  If not, it's just a little more than a week left until I start complaining to paypal =p


 
   
  Let us know if you receive it or not. The thing that worries me is that the seller changed their feedback to "private" and doesn't seem to reply to any of my messages. Why would they hide their feedback if they are a legit seller?


----------



## GaryPham

Quote: 





cheuh said:


> Let us know if you receive it or not. The thing that worries me is that the seller changed their feedback to "private" and doesn't seem to reply to any of my messages. Why would they hide their feedback if they are a legit seller?


 
   
  Yea that is no doubt shady actions by the seller.  Hopefully we all paid with paypal.  Paypal dispute center has been good to me in the past, it just may take a little while for dispute to get resolved but hopefully we'll get lucky and this guy is legit. I'm really suspecting that this is a "fell off the truck" type scenario and maybe he just wants to keep it on the down low.


----------



## BigCabDaddy

cheuh said:


> Let us know if you receive it or not. The thing that worries me is that the seller changed their feedback to "private" and doesn't seem to reply to any of my messages. Why would they hide their feedback if they are a legit seller?




The feedback part is bothersome. The lack of response, not so much. If you look at the original ad, it would seem to me entirely possible that the seller doesn't know English. Why get nervous so soon? Personally, I'm waiting until the projected delivery dates have come and gone. Oh and also, I've had domestic tracking that didn't update this quickly. /shrug Finally, I knew this order was a risk when I placed it. If I wanted surety, I'd have gone another direction.


----------



## cheuh

Quote: 





bigcabdaddy said:


> The feedback part is bothersome. The lack of response, not so much. If you look at the original ad, it would seem to me entirely possible that the seller *doesn't know English*. Why get nervous so soon? Personally, I'm waiting until the projected delivery dates have come and gone. Oh and also, I've had domestic tracking that didn't update this quickly. /shrug Finally, I knew this order was a risk when I placed it. If I wanted surety, I'd have gone another direction.


 
   
  But why post the the whole advertisement in English then? I don't see a single Chinese word anywhere in that ad. Sure the item is shipping from China, but why post a listing on a major site where the majority of its customers speak English? They could at least use google to translate a reply to its customers instead of just ignoring them.
   
  I'm going to wait it out and see what happens, but I'm very doubtful this deal will go through... not unless they provide some sort of evidence or communication that the item has actually  been shipped out.


----------



## MrEleventy

Remember that ebay has shorten their dispute time to just 45 days from payment date. Keep track of that otherwise, ebay won't help you.


----------



## BigCabDaddy

mreleventy said:


> Remember that ebay has shorten their dispute time to just 45 days from payment date. Keep track of that otherwise, ebay won't help you.




Thanks for that!


----------



## BigCabDaddy

cheuh said:


> But why post the the whole advertisement in English then? I don't see a single Chinese word anywhere in that ad. Sure the item is shipping from China, but why post a listing on a major site where the majority of its customers speak English? They could at least use google to translate a reply to its customers instead of just ignoring them.
> 
> I'm going to wait it out and see what happens, but I'm very doubtful this deal will go through... not unless they provide some sort of evidence or communication that the item has actually  been shipped out.




I saw the text as wholly cut n paste.


----------



## vurtomatic

I just got the T1. Haven't had a chance to even try it because out of the box:
   
  1) The tube guard snapped. Not made to fit in the hole, and the acrylic is ridiculously brittle. A bit of the leg was stuck in the hole and trying to get that out, it snapped into yet another piece. Forget about the guard since it's superfluous.
   
  2) Connected everything, the base lights up. Connected via USB to my Macbook Pro. The T1 doesn't show up. Tried my old amp, it shows. Reconnected the T1, the T1 shows up momentarily under device for sound output, then DISAPPEARS. I can't tell if the USB cable or the T1 is faulty. I'll at least need another USB cable to ascertain which is the problem.
   
  What?
   
  I had a look at the power adaptor my T1 was shipped with and it's labelled:
   
  Input: AC 230V
   
  even though I had asked for 110V because I'm in the U.S.
   
  Is that what's causing the T1 to not show up (despite it first appearing and disappearing)??


----------



## Oceanic 815

Long time lurker/ researcher, first time poster because my T1 just came in this afternoon. I paid 185.88 for a version with a 6922-EH tube. 
   
  I got an E7 for christmas to clean up the audio from my laptop and desktop. After using it with a variety of super cheap IEMs, I picked up the Sennheiser HD595 for cheap on the for sale forums here. Obviously this was another huge jump in SQ for me, but the bass was always a little lacking for me on the E7. A common complaint with the 595's, so I kind of expected it before I bought the 595's.
   
  I do plan on getting a good setup... eventually, but it will take so long for me to save up I decided that the T1 would be a great bang for the buck investment, and the output/inputs will allow me to build a higher end system one piece at a time.
   
  On the T1 I feel my 595's responding to the better amp, and the bass is definitely better. I don't have anything else to compare it to really but overall it just feels more natural and refined. 
   
  I also have a pair 1964 Ears V3 CIEMs for monitoring (drummer/guitar/bassist/vocalist here). They are more musical than neutral or analytical which makes them good monitors when you don't have super high end equipment. 
   
  Anyways, the V3 sound very good with the Aune. I typically use them when listening to more energetic music as they have a bit of a bass hump. The T1 has slightly less noise than the E7, which is very good with sensitive customs, so the fact that the T1 is near silent but more powerful makes me happy.
   
  Overall I feel I have a great budget system on my hands with the 595 and Aune. I'd love to demo some higher end phones in the future but this combo should serve me very well.


----------



## MrEleventy

well, I now need some airy and large soundstage tubes. picked up a dark voice 336se otl tube amp and that thing is plenty warm. going to try making the Aune as neutral as I can.  Russian 6n23p-eb sounds good paired with the 336 stock tubes. takes the edge off a bit. I think I need some telefunkens


----------



## laon

Quote: 





cheuh said:


> But why post the the whole advertisement in English then? I don't see a single Chinese word anywhere in that ad. Sure the item is shipping from China, but why post a listing on a major site where the majority of its customers speak English? They could at least use google to translate a reply to its customers instead of just ignoring them.
> 
> I'm going to wait it out and see what happens, but I'm very doubtful this deal will go through... not unless they provide some sort of evidence or communication that the item has actually  been shipped out.


 

 If it's really stolen goods then shipping it overseas may be the best options and by selling it cheap he can quickly shift them. If you've ever search around ebay you'll know that his T1 listing is a straight copy paste from other seller.
   
  Why are you expecting any reply from shady listing like that anyway?
   
  Sketchy tracking number from china isn't really anything new, all my item arrived in the end despite the inconsistent update or lack thereof (though I'm not saying that this one definitely will). If you're so nervous about it despite knowing the risk then I suggest you should not buy anything like this ever again in the future.


----------



## vurtomatic

This is probably a dumb question but will the 230V power supply that came with the T1 work in the US where it's 110V? I'm quite confused.
   
  My T1 seller replied saying:
   
   
   


> only 230V is avaliable,factory in china do not produce 110V power supply converter,can you use an adapter or so to use it?


 
   
  Those of you in the US, did you get a T1 with 110V power supply?


----------



## GaryPham

Do any of u guys have a Telefunken E88CC by any chance?  How does this thing sound in the T1?  I'm currently using an Amperex Orange globe and it's been great so far, but was hoping that I can find a tube that's even warmer (can tame down the highs even more).


----------



## BigCabDaddy

What is the typical lifespan of a tube in the T1? Wondering if it makes sense to buy pairs to have one in reserve?


----------



## FinalAura

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> 1: I don't know, haven't tried them
> 
> 2: I'm running on Windows 7, yes you can control the volume from windows or music player (iTunes, Mediamonkey, Foobar, etc). But I'm not sure about other windows version.


 
  thanks for the reply.
   
  Just to make sure, can the volume be controlled through the main windows volume (speaker icon at the bottom right of the taskbar)? On my Udac, i can control volume through music apps, but changing the main windows system volume doesn't do anything. Just want to see if this is possible on the t1.


----------



## laon

Quote: 





finalaura said:


> thanks for the reply.
> 
> Just to make sure, can the volume be controlled through the main windows volume (speaker icon at the bottom right of the taskbar)? On my Udac, i can control volume through music apps, but changing the main windows system volume doesn't do anything. Just want to see if this is possible on the t1.


 

 That only happen if you use wasapi exclusive or asio. It has nothing to do with the dac.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> well, I now need some airy and large soundstage tubes. picked up a dark voice 336se otl tube amp and that thing is plenty warm. going to try making the Aune as neutral as I can.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





garypham said:


> Do any of u guys have a Telefunken E88CC by any chance?  How does this thing sound in the T1?  I'm currently using an Amperex Orange globe and it's been great so far, but was hoping that I can find a tube that's even warmer (can tame down the highs even more).


 
   
  I have Telefunken PCC88/7DJ8 and it's one of the most neutral sounding tubes I have.
   
  Quote: 





bigcabdaddy said:


> What is the typical lifespan of a tube in the T1? Wondering if it makes sense to buy pairs to have one in reserve?


 
   
  They can last up to 10.000 hours depending on the tube and luck. I guess tubes are comparable to light bulbs in that sense. I've noticed that T1 doesn't heat tubes as much as some other amps and therefore the filaments could last relatively long? Heavy daily use and they should last from few to several years. If there are tubes you really like I'd suggest to get at least one spare if NOS and couple of spares if used NOS. Just be sure not to pay too much extra for matched pairs. Those matched pairs are mainly meant for amps that use dual tubes like Lyr. I, for example, have two Ultrons, three orange globes, two valvos, three telefunkens and two rocket logos. I'm using the ones with lower quality prints first because of their lower resale value (in case I ever want to upgrade and sell my tubes).


----------



## uncola

Quote: 





vurtomatic said:


> This is probably a dumb question but will the 230V power supply that came with the T1 work in the US where it's 110V? I'm quite confused.
> 
> My T1 seller replied saying:
> 
> ...


 
  I'm in the US and my t1 came with a power supply marked 230V and it's working normally.


----------



## vurtomatic

Quote: 





uncola said:


> I'm in the US and my t1 came with a power supply marked 230V and it's working normally.


 
  Thanks for confirming that. Fingers crossed it's the USB cable that's faulty and the reason it's not showing up in my laptop.


----------



## vurtomatic

So I tried the T1 with a new USB cable, and a transformer that steps up 110V to 230V. I've tried it with two different tubes.
   
  The T1 appears and disappears from my output device options. Every time it disappears, my laptop freezes. (Previously the T1 wouldn't show up at all.)
   
  Has anyone encountered this bizarre behavior? I'm kinda stumped, hoping there is a solution before I have to return it.


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





vurtomatic said:


> So I tried the T1 with a new USB cable, and a transformer that steps up 110V to 230V. I've tried it with two different tubes.
> 
> The T1 appears and disappears from my output device options. Every time it disappears, my laptop freezes. (Previously the T1 wouldn't show up at all.)
> 
> Has anyone encountered this bizarre behavior? I'm kinda stumped, hoping there is a solution before I have to return it.


 
  Try it on a different computer and see if you have the same issues. Otherwise, it is an OS issue and not a T1 issue.


----------



## vurtomatic

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Try it on a different computer and see if you have the same issues. Otherwise, it is an OS issue and not a T1 issue.


 
   
  Thanks for your suggestion.I just tried using it with my home laptop. Both work and home latops are on Mac OS but the home laptop's OS is up-to-date.
   
  I'm experiencing the same disappearing T1 in the output device list. The only difference is the T1 worked for 5 mins before disappearing.
   
  I had expect it to either work or not work. I'm quite confounded by this intermittent issue. Right now it's stopped appearing completely.


----------



## CoiL

Someone knows if there`s any point of those tube coolers? -> http://www.partsconnexion.com/tube_cool_pearl.html


----------



## MrEleventy

I think they're more important on power tubes. I just got a darkvoice 336se and the 6as7 power tube gets warm like a space heater. heck, the whole amp gets fairly hot. almost can't hold my hand against it on certain parts.


----------



## MrEleventy

vurtomatic said:


> Thanks for your suggestion.I just tried using it with my home laptop. Both work and home latops are on Mac OS but the home laptop's OS is up-to-date.
> 
> I'm experiencing the same disappearing T1 in the output device list. The only difference is the T1 worked for 5 mins before disappearing.
> 
> I had expect it to either work or not work. I'm quite confounded by this intermittent issue. Right now it's stopped appearing completely.


 Windows machine? confirmed working on win 7& 8. Work got us mobile workstations aka souped up laptops. core i7 w/ 16gbs of ram. :d


----------



## GaryPham

Kinda sidenote, but I just received a Magni from another member on these forum and been playing around with it.  Move over Magni/Modi!, it's all about the Magni/T1 stack! ;p
   
  http://cdn.head-fi.org/c/ca/900x900px-LL-cab947f7_SAM_0012.jpeg


----------



## cheuh

Quote: 





garypham said:


> Kinda sidenote, but I just received a Magni from another member on these forum and been playing around with it.  Move over Magni/Modi!, it's all about the Magni/T1 stack! ;p
> 
> http://cdn.head-fi.org/c/ca/900x900px-LL-cab947f7_SAM_0012.jpeg


 
   
  Looks nice man! How does the amp portion of the T1 compare to the Magni?


----------



## BluesDaddy

Quote: 





vurtomatic said:


> Thanks for your suggestion.I just tried using it with my home laptop. Both work and home latops are on Mac OS but the home laptop's OS is up-to-date.
> 
> I'm experiencing the same disappearing T1 in the output device list. The only difference is the T1 worked for 5 mins before disappearing.
> 
> I had expect it to either work or not work. I'm quite confounded by this intermittent issue. Right now it's stopped appearing completely.


 
  Hmmm, I seem to recall someone else having issues using it with the Mac OS. Try it with a Win7 machine, if you can, to nail down whether its the T1 or the Mac OS.


----------



## MrEleventy

Nice, looking good. I would stack my Aune on top of the darkvoice 336se if I didn't think it was going to melt the Aune lol


----------



## MrEleventy

Didn't realize how small the magni was.


----------



## GaryPham

Quote: 





cheuh said:


> Looks nice man! How does the amp portion of the T1 compare to the Magni?


 
   
  I'm not sure if it's just my imagination, but the highs seem a little more tamed down when using the Magni's amp portion.  Powerwise, the Magni should be a little more powerful as it puts out 1200mw at 32ohm while the T1 puts out 1000mw at 32ohm  (if going by the knobs, the Magni is more powerful than the T1 at +10db gain).  I'm using the T1 with my pair of 600ohm DT880, and as MrEleventy said in another post, the DT990s and DT880s can sound a bit sibilant on some songs when using the T1's internal amp.  Using the line-out to the Magni, I no longer notice the sibilance on those same songs. 
   
  Does anyone else out there have a Magni that they can run with their T1 to confirm my findings?  For all I know it could just all be in my mind O_o


----------



## MrEleventy

I feel the same way, it's like with more power the highs get tamed on the dts 600 ohms. They smooth out and just sparkle. fwiw, the t1 outputs the most volts at 10+ db and that's the setting that I compared the t1 amp vs the objective2 stock 2.5x gain. the o2 sounded better overall.


----------



## vurtomatic

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> Windows machine? confirmed working on win 7& 8. Work got us mobile workstations aka souped up laptops. core i7 w/ 16gbs of ram. :d


 
   
  I'm on Macs at home and work.
   
  Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Hmmm, I seem to recall someone else having issues using it with the Mac OS. Try it with a Win7 machine, if you can, to nail down whether its the T1 or the Mac OS.


 
   
  I don't have access to any Windows machine.
   
  The T1 is _suppose_ to work with Macs isn't it? Not suggesting they're the same but I never had a problem with my old Go-Vibe Petite.
   
  Are there any T1 owners on Mac, can someone share their experience?


----------



## nykobing

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Hmmm, I seem to recall someone else having issues using it with the Mac OS. Try it with a Win7 machine, if you can, to nail down whether its the T1 or the Mac OS.


 

 I remember that too. It is somewhere in this thread if you search through it. I remember it was something as simple as trying another usb port or something like that.


----------



## vurtomatic

Thanks, just did the search. Found some posts referencing Macs from toschek and zerogun.
   
  Given that the T1 appeared and disappeared, there is a possibility the USB ports do not have enough power.
   
  However, at work, I tried all the USB ports on my Macbook Pro and the Cinema Display. At home, I had nothing else plugged into USB except for the T1.
   
  And if I remember correctly Coil mentioned the T1 does not draw power from USB.
   
  So I remain stumped.


----------



## MrEleventy

take it to a best buy! lol maybe do what toscheck did and plug it into a powered usb hub.


----------



## vurtomatic

I'm actually thinking just that, ie. get a powered USB hub from Best Buy. Seems like I'm out of options so I'll give that a shot.


----------



## teb1013

vurtomatic said:


> I'm actually thinking just that, ie. get a powered USB hub from Best Buy. Seems like I'm out of options so I'll give that a shot.




Good luck and keep us advised. I have a T1 on the way which I hope to use with a Mac and also with an iPad 3 using a CCK. I already have a powered hub but would rather not unless absolutely necessary.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





vurtomatic said:


> Given that the T1 appeared and disappeared, there is a possibility the USB ports do not have enough power.


 
*Aune T1 does NOT draw ANY power from USB! *


----------



## MrEleventy

maybe the fact that it doesn't draw power is the culprit. osx might think the connection is dead and disconnect it.


----------



## vurtomatic

Quote: 





coil said:


> *Aune T1 does NOT draw ANY power from USB! *


 
  Yeah I remember you mentioning cutting the connector for power in the T1? Anyway I'm out of options and no other theories explain why the T1 would behave like that. It's just really bizarre that it appeared intermittently on my work laptop, and on my home laptop it worked for 5 mins, and then disappeared after a lot of noise.


----------



## vurtomatic

I can only assume my T1 is defective unless someone can chime in with a suggestion.
   
  I've tried it on 2 laptops running Mac OS.
  Tried different USB cables.
  Now tried a powered USB hub. T1 doesn't show up at all with or without the powered hub.
  I've even plugged the power supply into a transformer that steps up 110V to 230V.
  And uncola reported his works fine with the T1's 230V power supply so I don't think that's the problem.
   
  Previously at work the T1 appears and disappears. At home it appeared and worked for 5 mins. Now it doesn't show up at all.
   
  It's just so bizarre. Never had an electronic device demonstrate such eccentricity!


----------



## Dashie

Any idea how the Aune T1 would fare against the Alo Pan Am? If it can compete, perhaps more should indeed be done to boost the ratings of the T1


----------



## zerogun

vurtomatic said:


> Thanks, just did the search. Found some posts referencing Macs from toschek and zerogun.
> 
> Given that the T1 appeared and disappeared, there is a possibility the USB ports do not have enough power.
> 
> ...




Hello hello!

Been away from the forums recently because I've been just so insanely busy, but I did previously encounter issues with the T1 and my iMac! There were a few things I tried and having gone through it, I can say that I only run the USB T1 now on the back, and noticed on occasion if I ran BitPerfect it would sometimes cause disconnect issues as well. Though I'm not 100% sure with the BitPerfect aspect, I have played the T1 without BP recently to no problems!


----------



## vurtomatic

Hi zerogun, what to you mean 'on the back' ? The USB ports on the back of your iMac?

I've tried the ports in the back of my Cinema Display and the ports on the laptop, mine of them work. 

Did you experience the T1 appearing and disappearing from your sound preference?


----------



## Kamiru

Hello everyone, first time posting in this thread!

So I just got my aune T1 and I want to know if this is an okay tube to buy? 
http://www.ebay.nl/itm/1-NOS-1970-Holland-Amperex-Orange-Globe-6EH7-EF183-tube-/270578803035?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3effc0e15b


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





vurtomatic said:


> Yeah I remember you mentioning cutting the connector for power in the T1? Anyway I'm out of options and no other theories explain why the T1 would behave like that. It's just really bizarre that it appeared intermittently on my work laptop, and on my home laptop it worked for 5 mins, and then disappeared after a lot of noise.


 
  Yeah, I cut my USB cable +5VSB pin at the end of PC side to avoid extra possible signal disturbances. There`s some talk about it also @ rockgrotto Aune T1 thread. But it`s weird that all the problems I`ve seen are mostly with Apple products.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





kamiru said:


> Hello everyone, first time posting in this thread!
> 
> So I just got my aune T1 and I want to know if this is an okay tube to buy?
> http://www.ebay.nl/itm/1-NOS-1970-Holland-Amperex-Orange-Globe-6EH7-EF183-tube-/270578803035?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3effc0e15b


 
  NO!
   
  Sorry but this is getting annoying already - *PEOPLE, LEARN TO READ THE THREAD AND STOP ASKING STUPID QUESTIONS!*
   
  For the last time from me, list of tubes that will work with Aune T1: 
   
*6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 6N11, 7DJ8, PCC88, 6N27P, E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, *
*PCC189, 7ES8, 6ES8, ECC189, Cca, CV2492, CV10320, CV5231 ,CV5354, CV5358, E288CC*


----------



## Kamiru

coil said:


> NO!
> 
> Sorry but this is getting annoying already - *PEOPLE, LEARN TO READ THE THREAD AND STOP ASKING STUPID QUESTIONS!*




Okay, I'm sorry, I read most of the thread but I think I missed this.


----------



## CoiL

Np. Don`t take personally. It wasn`t only you, there`s other ppl asking it too  
   
  Somebody should add list of compatible tubes to 1st post!


----------



## fijiboatman

Quote: 





vurtomatic said:


> I can only assume my T1 is defective unless someone can chime in with a suggestion.
> 
> I've tried it on 2 laptops running Mac OS.
> Tried different USB cables.
> ...


 
  I hope mine works...  Just ordered its on the way, had planned on using it mostly with my macbook


----------



## MrEleventy

@vurtomatic : I just checked my power supply and mine says 110. I think it might be that. Ask the seller to send you a 110 supply maybe? Otherwise, I'm at a loss to what you can do next.


----------



## MrEleventy

My new stack! Not as sexy as T1 + Magni but it'll do.


----------



## GaryPham

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> My new stack! Not as sexy as T1 + Magni but it'll do.


 

 Damn that thing's looking beastly!  How much power does the Darkvoice put out?


----------



## uncola

I swear I'm in the US and have a power supply marked 230v.. and it's working.  Here's a pic of it


----------



## MrEleventy

uncola said:


> I swear I'm in the US and have a power supply marked 230v.. and it's working.  Here's a pic of it



Are you on a Mac too?



garypham said:


> Damn that thing's looking beastly!  How much power does the Darkvoice put out?




Supposedly will do 1W but I don't know over how many ohms. I just got 4 new driver tubes to roll and got two RCA NOS power tubes. I don't know how much work will actually get done tomorrow.


----------



## vurtomatic

uncola that's what I have.
   
  MrEleventy I did use my own transformer to step up 110V to 230V to use the 230V power supply, not ideal but the T1 still didn't work. (I know my transformer works fine). Can you post a picture of your power supply too? Perhaps I can show that to the seller. (He claimed the manufacturer didn't produce 110V power supplies even though on the Aune T1 web page, the spec clearly stated 220/110 for power.)


----------



## uncola

I moved my T1 from my win 8 desktop pc to my mac mini running 10.8 and it was also working fine there


----------



## zerogun

Quote: 





vurtomatic said:


> Hi zerogun, what to you mean 'on the back' ? The USB ports on the back of your iMac?
> 
> I've tried the ports in the back of my Cinema Display and the ports on the laptop, mine of them work.
> 
> Did you experience the T1 appearing and disappearing from your sound preference?


 
   
  Ah yes, not used to typing on the iPad. I was in fact referring to the back of my iMac. I did have that issue with it working say at 6pm and then I'd turn it off and come back the same night at 11pm and then I'd turn it on again, only for the iMac to not have it detect. But if you're referring to it disappearing while it being displayed in the sound preferences and having no interval in between, which it was switched off, then no.
   
  Each time my problem arose, was after played it, and then turned it off and on a few hours later. In the process, I unplugged my backup drive running Time Machine, and replaced the USB cable that came with it. Also choosing to run with and without Bit Perfect to try and sort out the issue. Oh one other thing I did try that 'seemed' to have worked was I used Onyx to clean up the system prefs. That seemed to refresh the system.


----------



## audiofrog

Has anyone received their Aune T1 from "starslove" on ebay? My estimated delivery is  Tue. Apr. 23 - Thu. May. 2.  I hope it comes next week!


----------



## uncola

I have the same estimated delivery, haven't received it yet.  I ordered 2.  I have 8 Voshkod 6N23P arriving Apr. 22 - Mon. Apr. 29 also


----------



## MrEleventy

Does your tracking number work?


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> Does your tracking number work?


 
  No.  And, I've never had a tracking number work for any international shipment I've ever received.  So, I'm not too concerned about that.


----------



## MrEleventy

audiofrog said:


> No.  And, I've never had a tracking number work for any international shipment I've ever received.  So, I'm not too concerned about that.



What about the seller getting 4 neg feedbacks in the past month and then suddenly setting their feedback private? 




vurtomatic said:


> MrEleventy I did use my own transformer to step up 110V to 230V to use the 230V power supply, not ideal but the T1 still didn't work. (I know my transformer works fine). Can you post a picture of your power supply too? Perhaps I can show that to the seller. (He claimed the manufacturer didn't produce 110V power supplies even though on the Aune T1 web page, the spec clearly stated 220/110 for power.)




Here you go.


----------



## BigCabDaddy

My guess is the tracking number is for in country delivery. Sent a package to Canada a couple weeks ago that couldn't be tracked.


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> What about the seller getting 4 neg feedbacks in the past month and then suddenly setting their feedback private?


 
  Not going to lie, that's a bit sketchy. Would be a bit of annoyance if I don't get it,  but, there's ebay protection.  So, I'm not worried.    I'd honestly be much more worried purchasing something through this site.  http://www.head-fi.org/t/661178/aune-t1-tube-usb-dac-additional-tubes-available


----------



## GaryPham

Let's hope that we don't get scammed.  I also ordered an Asus GTX 480 videocard from the same guy for 75 shipped O_o.


----------



## MrEleventy

I've done quite a bit of business through this site via the FS threads. That's how I got my T1 and the Darkvoice 336se. Most users here are reasonable that if you point out (in a friendly manner) that it's cheaper or not much cheaper new, they'll lower the price.


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> I've done quite a bit of business through this site via the FS threads. That's how I got my T1 and the Darkvoice 336se. Most users here are reasonable that if you point out (in a friendly manner) that it's cheaper or not much cheaper new, they'll lower the price.


 
  I'd be concerned about buyer protection.


----------



## MrEleventy

The tracking number you get, is it a link or just an email with numbers? I ordered something from china via ebay and I was able to track it but only via the China Post website. All other sites I tried said that the package didn't exist. I would try China Post or Hong Kong Post, since that's the manner that the listing said they were going to ship by.


----------



## MrEleventy

audiofrog said:


> I'd be concerned about buyer protection.




Paying with paypal and not sending money as gift like the giant red lettering says and you're covered the same way. At least that way, you're not stuck with ebay's "over 45 days and we wash our hands of your transaction". btw, seller says that it usually takes 3-8 weeks for delivery. Don't wait too long to file a report. Keep count of days when you paid.


----------



## BigCabDaddy

audiofrog said:


> Not going to lie, that's a bit sketchy. Would be a bit of annoyance if I don't get it,  but, there's ebay protection.  So, I'm not worried.    I'd honestly be much more worried purchasing something through this site.  http://www.head-fi.org/t/661178/aune-t1-tube-usb-dac-additional-tubes-available




Just so you know, the only time I had problems with an international order, eBay and paypal did squat. Hence, I don't often do international. But this was such a good deal, I took the chance FULLY KNOWING that it was risky. The hand wringing going on here cracks me up. Tell me, how many thousands have you spent on audio gear? And you're sweating a potentially wasted $60? (The question isn't meant for you specifically. More an example of what I'm thinking every time I read about the situation.) honestly, I'd be more irked if I received a non-working unit or one with the wrong power supply like that one schmuck did.


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





bigcabdaddy said:


> Just so you know, the only time I had problems with an international order, eBay and paypal did squat. Hence, I don't often do international. But this was such a good deal, I took the chance FULLY KNOWING that it was risky. The hand wringing going on here cracks me up. Tell me, how many thousands have you spent on audio gear? And you're sweating a potentially wasted $60? (The question isn't meant for you specifically. More an example of what I'm thinking every time I read about the situation.) honestly, I'd be more irked if I received a non-working unit or one with the wrong power supply like that one schmuck did.


 
  hahah!  Some people on here spend thousands.  But not me.  I have monoprice 8323- way better than cans I've spent $100 on.  I also have a creative xmod that I'm using until I get a dac/amp.


----------



## cheuh

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> What about the seller getting 4 neg feedbacks in the past month and then suddenly setting their feedback private?


 
    
  Yeah... that's why I'm so skeptical about this deal.
   
  Quote:


garypham said:


> Let's hope that we don't get scammed.  I also ordered an Asus GTX 480 videocard from the *same guy* for 75 shipped O_o.


 
   





..... so he found a box of GTX 480s laying around and decided to sell them for as cheap as possible on eBay as well? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Did you get any form of communication or tracking code for that video card?


----------



## GaryPham

Quote: 





cheuh said:


> ..... so he found a box of GTX 480s laying around and decided to sell them for as cheap as possible on eBay as well?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I received a tracking number for the GTX 480, but it doesn't have an estimated delivery date, unlike the T1.  If I don't receive either one by May 2nd I'm gonna file a complaint with ebay for both items.


----------



## sheep duck

is anyone using their t1 with hd650's? I just received mine in the mail today (pretty quick shipping from coolbaby11 on ebay)
   
  I browsed through the manual and saw the gain switch settings. I turned them all off (all switched downwards on the sides of the numbers) because I've read that for the most part you should always have the gain switches on low for the least signal noise. I'm noticing that i have to turn it basically all the way up to get it to adequate listening levels, this seems a bit off, coming from an e7/e9 combo where even on low gain setting i could barely get the volume pot passed 12 oclock. is this everyone elses experiences with hd650's?
   
  also, took me a while to figure out, but the 'SW' on the back is basically like the power? I fidgeted with it a lot before figuring this out.


----------



## MrEleventy

All the switches off is no gain. it is for low impedance hps. hd650s is 300 ohms so you'll want the 10db setting. then it should get loud enough at like, 10 o clock position. I tried my dt880/600ohms from the amp on 0db. I could max it out and it's still not loud enough


----------



## CoiL

what about DT880/600Ohm with +16dB ? Still not loud enough?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





sheep duck said:


> I'm noticing that i have to turn it basically all the way up to get it to adequate listening levels, this seems a bit off, coming from an e7/e9 combo where even on low gain setting i could barely get the volume pot passed 12 oclock. is this everyone elses experiences with hd650's?


 
   
  Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> hd650s is 300 ohms so you'll want the 10db setting.


 
   
  Hmm this seems quite strange indeed. I have compared my AKG K702 Anniversaries against my friends HD650 and even though the AKGs are lower impedance headphones I felt they needed more juice from the amp. Both ran just fine using 0 db gain imo. How are your computer settings? I use Foobar / wasapi event output / max volume output (both foobar and spdif interface).


----------



## CoiL

72` and 70`Amperex Orange A-frames still burning in but I gotta say it, those who want to "tame down" highs - get Ultron PCC189 - both, white & gold labeled are less fatiguing and with smoother and more "open" highs than Amperex A-frame orange. Plus, with Ultron PCC189 you get littlebit tighter bass & kick. 
   
Amperex GAC single leg dimple disc is littlebit better than A-frame imo, same reason as Ultrons, less fatiguing and more smoother/open highs compared to A-frame. 
But difference is not so noticeable than with A-frame vs. Ultron.
   



> garypham said:
> 
> 
> > Between the Amperex Orange Globe and the Ultron PCC189, which would you guys said is the warmer/more laid back tube?  I'm using the Orange globe with my DT880's right now which has tamed down the highs a good amount, but was wondering if the Ultron can make it even more laid back(less fatiguing).





> It's not yet clear if there is any sonical differences between different Ultrons, but I have found my Ultron to be slightly less fatiguing than my orange globe (especially with rock).


 

  Confirmed by me too. Difference between white (marked PCC189 7ES8, with grey center plate, large O-ring getter) and gold label ultrons is almost none, if anything, gold label has tinybit more tight bass/kick but it`s very hard to notice it.


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> what about DT880/600Ohm with +16dB ? Still not loud enough?



+10db is perfect, you get full range of control. At around 3/4 it gets plenty loud.



salvatore said:


> Hmm this seems quite strange indeed. I have compared my AKG K702 Anniversaries against my friends HD650 and even though the AKGs are lower impedance headphones I felt they needed more juice from the amp. Both ran just fine using 0 db gain imo. How are your computer settings? I use Foobar / wasapi event output / max volume output (both foobar and spdif interface).


Akg x70x series are known to run ok volume wise w/o an amp but definitely needs one to get the best out off them. and even then, they're picky about the amp that you use.


----------



## GaryPham

Oh man you're killing me, I'm still having a hard time acquiring a PCC189 tube. I remember another member on here who bought 10 of them. Was hoping I could buy one off of him but I think he went on to vacation not too long ago. Really wanting to try one though 





coil said:


> 72` and 70`Amperex Orange A-frames still burning in but I gotta say it, those who want to "tame down" highs - get Ultron PCC189 - both, white & gold labeled are less fatiguing and with smoother and more "open" highs than Amperex A-frame orange. Plus, with Ultron PCC189 you get littlebit tighter bass & kick.
> 
> 
> Amperex GAC single leg dimple disc is littlebit better than A-frame imo, same reason as Ultrons, less
> ...


----------



## fijiboatman

Hey all, just curious if anyone here has ordered their t1 or anything for that matter from the Canadian website www.springwateraudio.com. Just ordered my t1 from them, hoping everything will be fine.


----------



## fijiboatman

Hey all, just curious if anyone here has ordered their t1 or anything for that matter from the Canadian website www.springwateraudio.com. Just ordered my t1 from them, hoping everything will be fine.


----------



## sheep duck

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Hmm this seems quite strange indeed. I have compared my AKG K702 Anniversaries against my friends HD650 and even though the AKGs are lower impedance headphones I felt they needed more juice from the amp. Both ran just fine using 0 db gain imo. How are your computer settings? I use Foobar / wasapi event output / max volume output (both foobar and spdif interface).


 
  http://i.imgur.com/VBWrBnr.jpg
   
  there's my setup right now, i also made sure to switch to 24bit/96khz in the advanced field. any other options i should be checking?


----------



## McKajVah

I came back from 12 days at work yesterday and picked up the shipment straight away. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I actually got 11 tubes, 10 Ultron's and one Valvo PCC189 in an Ultron box.... Of the 10 Ultron's, I got three different types. Six "SQ" 7ES8, two normal 7ES8 and two only saying PCC189 on the box.
   
  I took some pictures of them so you can see the difference.
   

   

   

   

   
   
  My plan was to send out 5-6 of the tubes, but since they are of three different types, I want to keep more. I'll only be sending out 2-3 of the SQ type. Sorry guys.


----------



## spongeworthy

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Hmm this seems quite strange indeed. I have compared my AKG K702 Anniversaries against my friends HD650 and even though the AKGs are lower impedance headphones I felt they needed more juice from the amp. Both ran just fine using 0 db gain imo. How are your computer settings? I use Foobar / wasapi event output / max volume output (both foobar and spdif interface).


 
   
  Really? I own Q701's and I think the T1 more than enough for them, and the K702 anniversaries and Q701 use the same drivers. I used to own an m-stage too which is supposed to be a match made in heaven for them. To each their own I guess.


----------



## GaryPham

Do you think you can possibly hook me up with one of those SQ tubes?  I've been searching all over and can't find any of these for sale in the US. @_@.  I will be forever in your debt!
   
  Quote:


mckajvah said:


> I came back from 12 days at work yesterday and picked up the shipment straight away.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





spongeworthy said:


> Really? I own Q701's and I think the T1 more than enough for them, and the K702 anniversaries and Q701 use the same drivers. I used to own an m-stage too which is supposed to be a match made in heaven for them. To each their own I guess.


 
   
  Guys I think you are misunderstanding my point here. I said both headphones run just fine using 0 db gain, BUT even though K702 are lower impedance cans they seem to need more juice than the HD650. So just to be absolutely clear: according to my experiences T1 has enough power to run both K702 and HD650 just fine even with 0 db gain.
   
  Quote: 





mckajvah said:


> My plan was to send out 5-6 of the tubes, but since they are of three different types, I want to keep more. I'll only be sending out 2-3 of the SQ type. Sorry guys.


 
   
  Don't feel bad. Your tubes your rules and these are keepers for sure 
   
  Quote: 





sheep duck said:


> http://i.imgur.com/VBWrBnr.jpg
> 
> there's my setup right now, i also made sure to switch to 24bit/96khz in the advanced field. any other options i should be checking?


 
   
  Here is my setup in case someone is interested:


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





mckajvah said:


> I came back from 12 days at work yesterday and picked up the shipment straight away.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Definitely recommend to keep at least 2 Gold label SQ`s!
 But the other white logo ultrons... are they all with metal vertical center plate? Also your white ones seem to have small o-ring getter. That version is still not compared by me against SQ.
  Would maybe like to have one of them to see if it is same sounding as my white (grey vertical center plate, large O-ring getter) & gold label ultrons.
  Also, can you tell us your tubes markings (vertical nr. codes & is the glass bottom without nr/letter)?


----------



## uncola

Looks like it's a scam after all!
   
  [size=small]We're writing to let you know that this listing for an item you won or bid on is no longer available:[/size][size=small][/size]
 [size=small][/size]
 [size=small]130889822865 - Aune T1 DAC Hi-Fi Pre-amp Audio Amp 24Bit 96KHz 6N11 Tube Headphone Amplifier[/size][size=small][/size]
 [size=small][/size]
 [size=small]We understand this may be disappointing, but occasionally we need to remove listings. In some cases, the item itself is fine, but was listed in a way that didn't follow eBay's guidelines.[/size][size=small][/size]
 [size=small][/size]
 [size=small]Here's what you can do next:[/size][size=small][/size]
 [size=small][/size]
 [size=small]-- If you already paid, received your item, and you're satisfied, please disregard this notice. [/size][size=small][/size]
 [size=small]-- If you won the item but haven't paid, don't pay. Since eBay removed the listing, you're no longer obligated to go through with the transaction.[/size][size=small][/size]
 [size=small]-- If you already paid for this item through eBay, and it's past the estimated delivery time, you can open a case in our Resolution Center. Click the link below, and select the "I haven't received it yet" option. This will guide you through the process of opening a case.[/size][size=small][/size]
 [size=small]http://resolutioncenter.ebay.com[/size]


----------



## BigCabDaddy

uncola said:


> Looks like it's a scam after all!
> 
> [size=small]We're writing to let you know that this listing for an item you won or bid on is no longer available:[/size]
> [size=small][/size]
> ...




Yup. Got the same notice. Says we still have to wait until after the delivery date though.


----------



## uncola

I already opened a case on the resolution center.. don't see the point in waiting.  especially if this guy had his ebay account removed.. hopefully it just autocloses after 5 days and my money is refunded


----------



## d4rin

Does the amp come with any software at all?
   
  Or is it basically plug it into the USB port and get a flat response.
   
  I always like the option to have an EQ if I need one.


----------



## penmarker

Gosh, how many of you got scammed? I hope this gets resolved quickly.
   
  Quote: 





d4rin said:


> Does the amp come with any software at all?
> 
> Or is it basically plug it into the USB port and get a flat response.
> 
> I always like the option to have an EQ if I need one.


 
  Nope, no software or CD or anything. Plug and play, although windows might update the audio driver to support the DAC unit, depending on your driver version.


----------



## wolo

Hi Guys,
   
  Newbie here.  Sorry for the rudimentary question, but I wasn't able to find an answer by searching.
   
  It is generally considered "bad" to leave the Aune T1 powered on 24/7?  Will it shorten the life of the tube or the internal components, even it no sound is being processed?
   
  Thanks in advance for any insight.
   
  -Jason


----------



## BigCabDaddy

Quote: 





wolo said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Newbie here.  Sorry for the rudimentary question, but I wasn't able to find an answer by searching.
> 
> ...


 
   
  What I've always heard it is the on/off process and all jarring the tubes that tends to shorten lifespan


----------



## Kamiru

Say I want to tame down the highs/sibilance and I like a huge soundstage, what would be a good tube to get?

Also what are some good places to buy tubes without super hight shipping costs (to Europe)?


----------



## nykobing

Quote: 





kamiru said:


> Say I want to tame down the highs/sibilance and I like a huge soundstage, what would be a good tube to get?
> 
> Also what are some good places to buy tubes without super hight shipping costs (to Europe)?


 
  Salvatore did a really review of tubes at post 1209 in this thread.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/1200#post_9256553
   
  Hope that link works.


----------



## WarmSalt

Just got this cute little thing this weekend, with a vintage Siemens 6922 tube. Totally addicted and tons of fun!!!


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> Gosh, how many of you got scammed? I hope this gets resolved quickly.
> 
> Nope, no software or CD or anything. Plug and play, although windows might update the audio driver to support the DAC unit, depending on your driver version.


 
  Aune T1 does not need any driver or updatefrom windows. And it would be stupid to use it through windows internal mixer! Just plug in & play but use *WASAPI, ASIO* or *KSP* depending on your music player software and needs. I personally use winamp with ASIO output plugin + ASIO4ALL. KSP is easier but may sometimes have problems playing 192KHz files.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





kamiru said:


> Say I want to tame down the highs/sibilance and I like a huge soundstage, what would be a good tube to get?
> 
> Also what are some good places to buy tubes without super hight shipping costs (to Europe)?


 
  If you want huge soundstage then JAN Sylvania 6922 but I recommend Ultron PCC189 which has "middle" sized soundstage and great smooth open highs.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Aune T1 does not need any driver or updatefrom windows. And it would be stupid to use it through windows internal mixer! Just plug in & play but use *WASAPI, ASIO* or *KSP* depending on your music player software and needs. I personally use winamp with ASIO output plugin + ASIO4ALL. KSP is easier but may sometimes have problems playing 192KHz files.


 
   
  Yeah *I can't stress enough how important this is*. What these plugins do they let raw bit-exact sound flow straight from your computer to T1 without any inferior soundcard/OS modifications or processing whatsoever. If you use foobar, the wasapi plugin can be found here: http://www.foobar2000.org/components/view/foo_out_wasapi just install the plugin and go to preferences and check that the plugin is installed + change output device to wasapi SPDIF interface (T1).
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> If you want huge soundstage then JAN Sylvania 6922 but I recommend Ultron PCC189 which has "middle" sized soundstage and great smooth open highs.


 
   
  Haven't tried Sylvania, but this Ultron description sounds about right. I also find the Ultron to be smooth and soft. Combine it with analytical crisp sounding tube and that could be all you need.


----------



## GaryPham

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Yeah *I can't stress enough how important this is*. What these plugins do they let raw bit-exact sound flow straight from your computer to T1 without any inferior soundcard/OS modifications or processing whatsoever. If you use foobar, the wasapi plugin can be found here: http://www.foobar2000.org/components/view/foo_out_wasapi just install the plugin and go to preferences and check that the plugin is installed + change output device to wasapi SPDIF interface (T1).
> 
> 
> Haven't tried Sylvania, but this Ultron description sounds about right. I also find the Ultron to be smooth and soft. Combine it with analytical crisp sounding tube and that could be all you need.


 

 Salvatore, do you happen to know any places where I can still find an Ultron PCC189?  I pretty much searched ebay from every euro country, US and canada and can't find one anywhere =[


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





garypham said:


> Salvatore, do you happen to know any places where I can still find an Ultron PCC189?  I pretty much searched ebay from every euro country, US and canada and can't find one anywhere =[


 
   
  Me and Coil did joint order from this Finnish shop: http://uraltone.com/kauppa/product_info.php?info=p3882_PCC189--Ultron.html&XTCsid=od1gpb93vebc8j4fhchb7mk4v1
   
  There are some EU shops that sell this tube, but they won't accept orders worth less than €50. This Ultron could be pretty much in par with orange globe depending on what you are looking for. Ultron has generally better price over performance ratio (manly because it's very cheap especially for those who can get them locally), but if you have to pay too much then I would suggest to try something else. I would also imagine that Ultron can sound a bit too soft in some systems. Works best with brighter crisp sounding cans which tend to get slightly fatiguing with certain music styles. I'd say this is a very nice buy for up to €15, but if you don't have fatiguing system orange globe is probably better all around tube to have.
   
  My personal preferences from my personal collection:
   
*Amperex orange globe 6DJ8* -> very nice for general PC use. Music, movies, tv series and games. You name it and everything sounds nice. Looks like the older halo getter single leg betters the 70's a-frames.
*Ultron 7ES8*-> mainly for rock, but pretty much for everything where globe gets fatiguing.
*Amperex 7308 / Telefunken 7DJ8* -> definitely for jazz and organic instrumental such as concertos etc. + mixing. With these tubes you'll be hearing everything (especially with amperex).
*Rocket logo / Siemens 7DJ8* -> best suited for intimate in your face kind of presentation. Man and guitar kind of setups, blues and Chris Cornell songbook type of acoustic thing. I feel like the tubes with biggest sound stage don't fit the atmosphere of this kind of music so well, but that's just my personal opinion. I would imagine these to go nicely with some vintage vinyls with all the cracks and pops there. Siemens really allows vocals to pop. Lacks some resolution of the better tubes but with the music it suits best it's really not a problem.
   
  And just as a reminder. The differences are not huge. I probably wouldn't do too good if I had to blind audition my tubes 
   
  E: I think your best bet is if Coil is willing to sell one of his Ultrons. The way he loves them the probability is very low though


----------



## GaryPham

sigh....sounds like the Ultron is exactly what I'm looking for to tame down my DT880s then.  Amperex orange globe did a pretty good job, but I was just hoping for something to tame down those highs just a smidgen more.  Hopefully some kind soul here can spare one of their extras and sell to me T.T


----------



## McKajVah

Quote: 





coil said:


> Definitely recommend to keep at least 2 Gold label SQ`s!
> But the other white logo ultrons... are they all with metal vertical center plate? Also your white ones seem to have small o-ring getter. That version is still not compared by me against SQ.
> Would maybe like to have one of them to see if it is same sounding as my white (grey vertical center plate, large O-ring getter) & gold label ultrons.
> Also, can you tell us your tubes markings (vertical nr. codes & is the glass bottom without nr/letter)?


 
   
  All of my 10 tubes has the same size of the 0-ring getter. None of them has any number on the glass bottom.
   
  All of my 6 SQ tubes have the same vertical markings: 40811. There is also som smaller horizontal marking: DJF V3H.
  I have one which looks very similar to the SQ, but has white lettering and is marked vertical 11312, and horizontal DJL and a symbol "half circle with a dot inside" followed by the number 1.
  The 3 that just says "PCC189" are without that extra plate under the o-ring getter and is marked vertical:11801 with no small horizontal markings.
   
  When you ask for "metal vertical center plate", what plate do you mean?
   
  BTW: I have only listened to the SQ tube, but they definitely fit really well with my Grado SR325 bringing down the treble.
   
  -Kaj


----------



## vurtomatic

Can someone recommend a seller for the T1?
   
  I'm waiting for a refund on my defective T1.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





vurtomatic said:


> Can someone recommend a seller for the T1?


 
   
  I bought mine from kidult510. They ship from UK so no customs inside EU. Fast shipping and seller replied to all of my questions. Amp comes with EH6922 tube and (useless) UK-EU wall plug adapter.


----------



## vurtomatic

Thanks for the suggestion, I'm in the US unfortunately.


----------



## audiofrog

I can hear a lot of people saying "told you so!" - here's the message I got about the aune T1 from Starslove
   
  [size=small]We're writing to let you know that this listing for an item you won or bid on is no longer available:[/size][size=small][/size]
 [size=small][/size]
 [size=small]130889822865 - Aune T1 DAC Hi-Fi Pre-amp Audio Amp 24Bit 96KHz 6N11 Tube Headphone Amplifier[/size][size=small][/size]
 [size=small][/size]
 [size=small]We understand this may be disappointing, but occasionally we need to remove listings. In some cases, the item itself is fine, but was listed in a way that didn't follow eBay's guidelines.[/size]


----------



## MrEleventy

Ah well. One of the occasions where, "Too good to be true" is really too good. Hope you get your money back.  Noticed that the guy you informed about his pricing lowered it, thinking about it now?  Hehe


----------



## pfreshwes

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> I can hear a lot of people saying "told you so!" - here's the message I got about the aune T1 from Starslove
> 
> [size=small]We're writing to let you know that this listing for an item you won or bid on is no longer available:[/size][size=small][/size]
> [size=small][/size]
> ...


 
  I received the same message as well and decided to put in an ebay case for item not received.  Hopefully we can get a refund.


----------



## uncola

My refund came through today after less than 24 hours.. good on ebay/paypal


----------



## GaryPham

Quote: 





uncola said:


> My refund came through today after less than 24 hours.. good on ebay/paypal


 

 Wow, thumbs up on ebay's customer support!  I still haven't received my refund yet, placed in the complaint about 2 days ago (hoping it goes through with no problems, 135 dollars at stake here since I also took a bite on the GTX480 vidcard as well).


----------



## Mitchm

Can some tell me if the T1 works with the MacBook/HD650. I want to use the tube amp and Dac, I don't get the Tube Dac and USB connections problem.
  Thanks


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





mckajvah said:


> All of my 10 tubes has the same size of the 0-ring getter. None of them has any number on the glass bottom.
> 
> All of my 6 SQ tubes have the same vertical markings: 40811. There is also som smaller horizontal marking: DJF V3H.
> I have one which looks very similar to the SQ, but has white lettering and is marked vertical 11312, and horizontal DJL and a symbol "half circle with a dot inside" followed by the number 1.
> ...


 
  What I mean about metal vertical plate (A) and grey vertical (B) plate:
  A: https://www.tubeworld.com/6dj875p2.jpg
 B: http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/gm5yp.bd2vt/v/vspfiles/photos/Valvo-PCC189-3.jpg
   
  Look at the center inner tube, in middle there`s a vertical plate that goes down to pins and kinda "splits the tube".
   
  Your SQ- s should be same sounding as mine. That 11312 DJL with dot marking seems interesting.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





mckajvah said:


> There is also som smaller horizontal marking: DJF V3H. I have one which looks very similar to the SQ, but has white lettering and is marked vertical 11312, and horizontal DJL and a symbol "half circle with a dot inside" followed by the number 1.


 
   
  In addition to the normal prints, tubes usually have one or two letter/number/symbol codes etched to the glass which can be used to interpret when and where the tube was manufactured. I, for example, have three different Amperex dimple disc A-frame orange globes. One of these globes have no factory codes visible, but it has tektronix label, which in my understanding means that the tube has "_passed intense quality screening for critical applications in Tektronix industrial equipment_". The other two tubes have the following codes:
   
  GAE
_[size=medium]Δ[/size]_2K4
   
  and
   
  GA8
_[size=medium]Δ[/size]_0F3
   
  GA means that the tube is 6DJ8 tube and the last letter or number indicates which batch it is from (also helps estimate the production year range). The other line tells you more about the actual production. The first symbol tells you the plant/factory the tube was made in. In this case the lower right triangle symbol means that the tube was manufactured in Philips, Heerlen, Holland factory. 2K4 is the date code where 2 = last digit of year, 1972; K = month, Nov (A = Jan, etc.); 4 = week of month. So it seems that the GAE and GA8 are 6DJ8 tube types from different batches. The 2K4 is 1972 production and the 0F3 is 1970 production.
   
  The codes in your Ultron seem to indicate that they both are same tube type (DJ = 7ES8/PCC189 even though in some cases DJ equals 7DJ8 tube type) and come from different batch. The half circle with dot inside indicates that the tube was manufactured in Elektroninski Industija, Nis, former Yugoslavia. Not sure about the number but it probably means year (19X1, 1971?). The V3H code could mean (I assume that the first letter is indeed capital V) that the tube was manufactured in Bharat Electronics, India (August 19X3, 1973?). Anyways it seems evident that the tubes were manufactured in different plants. Later Ultron has bought these tubes and relabeled them in their company. Seems like you have to be careful with these Ultron tubes. There could be lots of different tubes labeled as Ultron varying from German and Dutch tubes to Asian tubes. This obviously affects the sound as well.
   
  Photos and sources:
   
   

   

   
  http://www.audiotubes.com/mullcode.htm
  http://www.tube-classics.de/TC/Tubes/Valvo/Phlipscode.htm
  http://www.triodeel.com/images/philipstubecodes.pdf
  http://www.pauls-roehren.de/downloads/PhilipsCodeListAB.pdf (this one seems to be really good source)


----------



## CoiL

My 2 golden label Ultron SQ tubes also have 40811 vertical code and factory code is DJF V3B. Seems they are also made in India by Bharat Electronics.
   
Salvatore, but where do you get that other (white label) Ultrons are from Germany or Dutch? They have no factory codes. I`m assuming they are also probably from Asia region or former Yugoslavia or Hungary.
  
  Anyway, despite the white and gold label seem to be from different factory, they sound almost identical, at least my golden and white (50402, PCC189 7ES8, with grey center plate and large O-ring getter).


----------



## GaryPham

Quote: 





garypham said:


> Wow, thumbs up on ebay's customer support!  I still haven't received my refund yet, placed in the complaint about 2 days ago (hoping it goes through with no problems, 135 dollars at stake here since I also took a bite on the GTX480 vidcard as well).


 
   
  Just got my refund as well.  Yay for ebay/paypal support!


----------



## cheuh

Quote: 





garypham said:


> Wow, thumbs up on ebay's customer support!  I still haven't received my refund yet, placed in the complaint about 2 days ago (hoping it goes through with no problems, 135 dollars at stake here since I also took a bite on the GTX480 vidcard as well).


 
   
  I just received my refund on the T1 from paypal.
   
  What a scumbag scammer this guy is. His account: starslove is now apparently (private)  and Not a registered user anymore. Why does ebay even allow this? So that means we can't even leave him negative feedback and no one can view his feedback information either. It's just a waste of time.
   
  I was able to get his information (not sure if it's fake or real since I can't read Chinese) before he closed his account.
   

   
[size=10pt] User ID:[/size][size=10pt]  [size=10pt]starslove[/size]
[/size][size=10pt] Name:[/size][size=10pt]  [size=10pt]双星 彭[/size]
[/size][size=10pt] Company:[/size][size=10pt]  [/size][size=10pt] City:[/size][size=10pt]  [size=10pt]荆州市[/size]
[/size][size=10pt] State:[/size][size=10pt]  [size=10pt]湖北省[/size]
[/size][size=10pt] Country:[/size][size=10pt]  [size=10pt]中國[/size]
[/size][size=10pt] Phone:[/size][size=10pt]  [size=10pt]13872309783[/size]
[/size][size=10pt] Registered Since:[/size][size=10pt]  [size=10pt]2012-05-16 16小時30分15秒[/size]
[/size]
 
   
   
  I don't know what we can do, but something needs to be done to prevent this guy from scamming people again.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Salvatore, but where do you get that other (white label) Ultrons are from Germany or Dutch? They have no factory codes. I`m assuming they are also probably from Asia region or former Yugoslavia or Hungary.


 
   
  This is just assumption I got from browsing some old forums and sites. And I mean Ultron tubes in general.
   
  http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
   
  " _6DJ8 Ultron or RSD, made in Germany, New Old Stock White Box. White label, 1970s vintage, nice German made tube, very similar to Siemens._"
   
   
  https://www.tubeworld.com/european.htm
   

```
[i]Ultron Germany NOS original Ultron boxes[/i]
```
   
   
  http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/110406-ultron-6v6gt.html
   
  "_Ultron was a German vendor, with a good reputation in its selections. I have several 6SN7s & 6SL7s branded by them and they are all best American crop. The ones in your picture, may well be G.E. Ultron was relabeling lots of Siemens & Valvo that they got 6V6s mainly from G.E_."
   
   
  http://www.vintageamps.com/plexiboard/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=27811
   
  "_They are German, thats all i can say_"
   
   
  Everywhere I browse I get these kind of comments.
   
  Quite a many place say that Ultron was West Germany company. Their original boxes are also printed in Germany. If this is indeed the case it would be very convenient that the early Ultron tubes were relabeled German tubes.


----------



## CoiL

Thanks for information! 
   
  edit: Still, we can`t claim that white PCC189 ultrons are german or dutch because boxes are printed in west germany (my india SQ ultrons have also box printed in W.Germany) and other ultron tube types are belived to be german/dutch or are german/dutch. _6DJ8, __6SN7, 6SL7 and __6V6_ are not same type as PCC189/7ES8 and can`t be said that come from same importing source. As far as I know Ultron was only importing tubes and marking them with their own logos. One seems to be sure - golden label SQ ultrons come from india or asia region (info about Bharat Electronics BEL: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bharat_Electronics ). I belive that whole ultron PCC189 type seems to be selected "same sounding". I wish I had another white logo ultron with metal vertical plate to confirm this.


----------



## MrEleventy

my telefunken pcc189 came in. can't wait to roll them at work.


----------



## FinalAura

Does anyone use this dac with grados? Wondering if they pair up well


----------



## Kamiru

I want to buy Ultron PCC189 from here: https://www.astelectronica.nl/AstCatalog/Detail.php?Article=495288&name=PCC189&SiteLanguage=NL

just the be sure, this is the right tube, right?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





finalaura said:


> Does anyone use this dac with grados? Wondering if they pair up well


 
  Someone just mentioned his grados with Aune T1. Read!


----------



## GaryPham

Kamiru, are Dutch by any chance?  I've also really been wanting to order a pair of PCC189s as well but can't read anything on that site T.T,  Is there a minimum price limit on there and do they sell worldwide?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





kamiru said:


> I want to buy Ultron PCC189 from here: https://www.astelectronica.nl/AstCatalog/Detail.php?Article=495288&name=PCC189&SiteLanguage=NL
> 
> just the be sure, this is the right tube, right?


 
  Don`t know because artikel text doesnt say its Ultron. Picture doesn`t say anything about it because there are 3 different tubes and none of them is PCC189.


----------



## Kamiru

garypham said:


> Kamiru, are Dutch by any chance?  I've also really been wanting to order a pair of PCC189s as well but can't read anything on that site T.T,  Is there a minimum price limit on there and do they sell worldwide?




Yeah I am Dutch, they don't seem to ship worldwide, only to the Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg and "countries in price area 1", I'm not sure what that means... The minimum price limit is Euro 2,99.

Oh and here is a link with all the NOS tubes: https://www.astelectronica.nl/AstCatalog/PhotoArtikelByGroup.php?Group=2810&SiteLanguage=NL


----------



## Kamiru

coil said:


> Don`t know because artikel text doesnt say its Ultron. Picture doesn`t say anything about it because there are 3 different tubes and none of them is PCC189.




Yeah the site is kinda weird. the text next to the image with the Ultron tubes says "group photo", and the "group" seem to be NOS tubes, but it doesn't say anything about the brand....


----------



## CoiL

Offtopic: Have another Aune T1 eargasm with Yoav`s new album Blood Vine: https://soundcloud.com/justmusicsouthafrica/sets/yoav-blood-vine


----------



## BluesDaddy

Lots of talk about the Ultron, but, no offense to anyone, I have doubts as to whether tubes made in different countries and different factories all have similar, if not identical, sounds. I especially find it difficult to believe that tubes made in a factory in India sound the same as those made in the 50s or 60s in Germany.  At any rate, for those looking for other tube recommendations, the following are what I have found to be the most "listenable" over time:
   
  Amperex 6DJ8 "Orange Globe" GAC
  Mullard ECC88 (European designation for 6DJ8) Holland GAE
  Voskhod Rocket Logo 6N23P (another 6DJ8 with Russian nomenclature)
  Amperex Buggle Boy 6DJ8
   
  The first two are significantly better than the bottom two, but all display a smooth, non-fatiguing sound that is not too bright.  They (first two) also have a "wow" factor that I have not experienced with any other tubes, including my own Ultron. By all means, seek out an Ultron - but I think the expectation they will all sound as has been described is unrealistic since it appears Ultron is a re-brander of tubes manufactured by a variety of companies.


----------



## CoiL

Well, if I would be only guy who likes Ultrons but I`m not. And honestly, the white & gold label Ultron`s I personally have are almost same sounding. Only differences I can make, like I have told before - golden one has tinybit tighter bass & kick. Soundstage and imaging are same. But difference is very tiny, if you wont do analytical listening, there`s basically no difference. 
   
  I Agree on recommendation about Amperex GAC, it`s better than Orange. I have 2 perfect condition A-frame oranges to compare with but their highs are littlebit "flat" and get irritating with longer listening, especially with rock/progressive/metal. Honestly, they are more similiar to my Mullard ECC88 than to Amperex GAC or Ultrons. Last two are definitely with more open and smoother highs. 
   
  Thats what my ears are telling me. I should try rocket logo but don`t hope anything good from it because reflector logo is "crap" compared to Mullard ECC88, Amperex GAC, Philips PCC189, Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 or Ultrons.


----------



## BluesDaddy

I suspect some "expectation bias" may be at work. My ears tell me the Ultron I have is in no wise comparable to the Amperex GAC. I think folks are entitled to knowing there are different opinions. Honestly, it is simply not reasonable to expect that Ultron is sonically matching all these tubes manufactured across different decades and continents. Reality just don't work that way.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Honestly, it is simply not reasonable to expect that Ultron is sonically matching all these tubes manufactured across different decades and continents. Reality just don't work that way.


 
  Right! And I haven`t told anything like that about Ultrons 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Didn`t say they match sonically BUT they just are very very similiar sounding tubes, nothing I can do about it, thats what I hear. If I`m not so busy anymore, will try to make more analytical comparing bringing out more detail.  For now those gold & white Ultrons have been nicely burned in I think and differences should become more easily heardable but I suspect there won`t be much to update.
   
  But like Iv`e told many many times, lot depends on different factors - gear, personal hearing, taste, music preference etc. For me, gold label Ultron PCC189 is littlebit better than Amperex GAC and white label is in middle of them. Amperex A-Frame oranges are also very good but with rock/progressive/metal highs just get littlebit "annoying" with longer listen, they just feel "flat" and boring. All those differences are very small and overall all those tubes are very good! Which one to buy is up to personal preferences. This is only my opinion and I recommend Ultron PCC189 & Amperex GAC & Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 over Amperex A-frame orange globe & Mullard ECC88.  
   
  My goal with this tube hoarding was to find great sounding tube which is in same league with more known & expensive ones but is more easily available and cheap to make Aune T1 even more attractive bang-for-a-buck choice for everybody. I think I found 2 good tubes - Philips PCC189 and Ultron PCC189. Both tubes can be found in EU with good price. Unfortunately not so great story about US, I feel sorry about that. Wish that more ppl could enjoy the sound of Ultron for the price that I got them - they are just "killer" tubes imho


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





bluesdaddy said:


> Honestly, it is simply not reasonable to expect that Ultron is sonically matching all these tubes manufactured across different decades and continents.


 
   
  This is valid point indeed. Ultron seems like a lottery ticket, and without any factory codes you never know what you get (also the impressions and reviews are then biased). That's why I recommend to buy it as cheap as possible. What makes Ultron so hyped at the moment is the fact that it's dirt cheap, sounds relatively good and has slightly tamed highs (this is for white label without any factory codes, as compared to my a-frame and imo of course). It seems that many T1 owner here are looking to smoothen those harsh upper mids and treble spikes, which my Ultron manages to achieve in some extent. But like I've been saying this is kind of a double edged sword since my Ultron sounds even too soft at times. Therefore, I can't recommended it for all kind of music styles and headphone systems. At least I personally prefer analytical crisp sound whenever it doesn't get piercing and fatiguing. These things considered Ultron might not suit us all and can indeed lead to "expectation bias" (especially since Ultron can potentially be either a 70's Asian tube or 60's Siemens tube or anything in between).
   
  In this case, it all comes down to the fine tuning and synergy. If we compare tubes only by their own absolute intrinsic properties, Ultron is not the best tube. From my tubes I would rate it below the best (7308 amperex, 6DJ8 amperex, 7DJ8 tele...), but it's wonderful tube in those specific situations. I was looking something for rock and Ultron works for me. I guess my final advice is that you should keep buying those trusted identifiable brands if you want to be sure what you're buying. One good advice is to pay little bit more for one of those best early amperexes and be happy. This would, however, take the best fun out of T1 = tube rolling.


----------



## epel

Quick question in between the Ultron-discussion!
   
  In short:
  My Aune T1 had two sudden "shutdowns" yesterday, ca. 10 minutes apart, and the "shutdowns" stopped after i changed back to the stock tube. The unit was very hot, more than the usual warm-to-the-touch. Does this sound like a problem caused by a faulty tube to you guys?
   
  I'm afraid to switch back to the "faulty" tube to confirm my suspicion, in case it might damage some of the Aune's components. Could it?
   
   
  In detail:
 While playing music at low volume from my PC, the LED-light under the tube shut off, the tube was still glowing, the sound was gone, but the DAC was still working because it was still visible on my PC. I switched it off, checked the cable connections and powersupply (230V). Everything seemed fine, but I noticed it the Aune T1 and the tube was very hot. I let it cool off for a minute and turned it back on. It worked for about 10 minutes before it shutdown again. 
 Decided to switch back to the stock tube and it has been working ever since, but the sound is different though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The tube I suspect caused the shut down is a 6dj8/ecc88, so its not a wrong kind of tube.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> This is valid point indeed. Ultron seems like a lottery ticket, and without any factory codes you never know what you get (also the impressions and reviews are then biased). That's why I recommend to buy it as cheap as possible. What makes Ultron so hyped at the moment is the fact that it's dirt cheap, sounds relatively good and has slightly tamed highs (this is for white label without any factory codes, as compared to my a-frame and imo of course). It seems that many T1 owner here are looking to smoothen those harsh upper mids and treble spikes, which my Ultron manages to achieve in some extent. But like I've been saying this is kind of a double edged sword since my Ultron sounds even too soft at times. Therefore, I can't recommended it for all kind of music styles and headphone systems. At least I personally prefer analytical crisp sound whenever it doesn't get piercing and fatiguing. These things considered Ultron might not suit us all and can indeed lead to "expectation bias" (especially since Ultron can potentially be either a 70's Asian tube or 60's Siemens tube or anything in between).
> 
> In this case, it all comes down to the fine tuning and synergy. If we compare tubes only by their own absolute intrinsic properties, Ultron is not the best tube. From my tubes I would rate it below the best (7308 amperex, 6DJ8 amperex, 7DJ8 tele...), but it's wonderful tube in those specific situations. I was looking something for rock and Ultron works for me. I guess my final advice is that you should keep buying those trusted identifiable brands if you want to be sure what you're buying. One good advice is to pay little bit more for one of those best early amperexes and be happy. This would, however, take the best fun out of T1 = tube rolling.


 
  I wouldn`t say lottery ticket but yeah, if you have no actual picture from what your`e buying then it`s kinda lottery. Well, atm we have identified 3 different Ultron PCC189`s by physical design and by packaging. Two of them are very very similiar sounding (white and golden one I have). There is also 4th tube that is physically same as golden logos but comes from Yugoslavia and is with while label.
 Anyway, these Ultrons seem to fit very well for those who want to "tame down" little their DT880/DT990/Grados highs and personally I would say fits really good with rock/metal/progressive. Certainly it`s not the best tube but for the price they sell, it`s awsome tube for sure! 
  About analytical crisp sounding tubes... from that part I think the best tube I have is Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 but unfortunately it`s crazy hard to find. I think it should be tube that belongs in "The Best" league but I have no expensive & highly rewarded tubes to compare to. If you bring parallel to Miniwatt-Dario E188CC/7308 ( http://www.upscaleaudio.com/miniwatt-dario-e188cc-7308/ ), then it should be among " The Best". I`m thinking about sending some tubes to Salvatore at this point to get second opinion. 
  For me, analytical listening is actually secondary thing when I`m listening music, I just want to enjoy it without something that gets "disturbing factor" in sound. From that point of view I prefer Amperex GAC & Ultron PCC189 over Amperex A-frame orange / Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 / Mullard ECC88 / Philips PCC189. Ultron PCC189 & Amperex GAC are just musically more enjoyable with pop-rock/rock/metal/progressive/jazz/djent. And lets not forget that those tubes aren`t so good for electronic atmospheric music like JAN Sylvania 6922 / Tungsram PCC88 / 6922EH, at least for me. This all is only my personal impression and I`m not trying to actually hype some certain tube, I`m just sharing my opinion and I hope it helps and opens up some choices about tubes.


----------



## audioisemotion

In reply to FInalAura,

 yes, yes, yes. Grados work really well with the Aune T1.

 Hi fellow Aune T1 owners, this is my first post ever anywhere.

 I saw a pair of Grado 325i's in the sales here in Scotland and couln't resist  I could hear they were good but I felt the amp was letting it down and holding it back.
 I started looking and fould the Aune T1 and then this discussion with twenty or so pages in it. Those pages were enough for me and I bought one from a UK reseller on ebay with the updated valve.
 It arrived, I hooked it all up and plugged in the Grados and couldn't help but err cry. (yes I'm a guy and married and over fifty).
 I had a Linn sondek etc etc in the early ninties and back then it blew digital out of the water. Ever since then I have not liked digital at all.

 The Aune T1 has transformed that opinion. Good digital recordings throught this little gem via the grados are the best thing I have heard to date.  There have been a few mods and tube rolling to get it just right though.

 The Grados are stupidly uncomfortable and I couldn't wear them for more than a few hours and my ears were sore. So I did the research and bought the big G pads and a sennheiser headband pad. They were now very very comfy but the sound was week in the bass and the ssssss on female voice was so sharp it could cut you.
 The grados were taken apart and the four holes punched,the plastic ring removed and the plastic button removed, it was much better but still the sssss on some recordings.

 So I turned to tubes (we call them valves) and did lots of research and then looked around. Seems I got lucky first time as I bought a VALVO PCC88 with D getter and waisted glass from 1957.
 From the first this combo sounded right. It took over 200 hrs of burning in before I didn't notice any more improvement (mostly the grados probably).

 With good recordings these two are amazing. Everything is there, wide holographic sound stage,  tight bass, controlled highs but the midrange is stunning.

 Diana Krall Love Scenes (2004 Hybrid SACD) has tracks with such intimacy it gives shivers.

 Marta Gomez Cantos De Agua Dulce 2004 24/96 is a great album

 Ophélie Gaillard : Bach : Suites pour violoncelle seul BWV 1007-1012 her breathing and fingers on the neck are very noticable via the grados but it's still worth it.

 My current fav is Antonio Forcione & Sabina Sciubba Meet Me In London (24/192) 2012. Everyone should own this album. I this age of digital voice correction it is great to see such tallent still exists and I'm finding more all the time thanks to the purchase of this little headphone amp.

 Any genre is amazing, from MUSE to Norah Jones.
 Acoustic recordings sound really good,

 Nutcracker Suite; The Sleeping Beauty; Capriccio Italien 1992 03 03

 The Four Seasons; Concerto per archi e cembalo; Symphony in C major 1995 Zyx  (I have three versions and this is the best and it's not even high bitrate, just a great performance).

 Opera is wonderful.

 I could go on and on. If you own a really great system then you wouldn't be looking at a cheap little amp like the Aune. The fact your on this forum means your looking for something to improve the sound from your new or old  headphones. What are you waiting for, it's changed my life. Music is back.

 System
 PC (home built windows 7 64 bit)
 Foobar 2000 (do the research on plugins and setup)
 Cheap £15 gold plated usb I'm not getting into that debate
 Aune T1 with VALVO PCC88 D getter and waisted.
 Grado 325i modified with G cups Sennheiser head band pad, four holes etc
 Contact cleaner and a dremel


----------



## penmarker

Great writeup audioisemotion.
   
  One of the first things that I notice when I tried out the amp is how sparkly the top end is paired with my DR150. With Grado having their top end as their forte, I can't even begin to imagine how great your 325i would sound paired with it.
   
  The sssssharp essssesssss is called sibilance. Some headphones suffer from it, some don't. Since you're into turntables back then I'm pretty sure you know about it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  The soundstage and holographic presentation is admirable, I sometimes got fooled whether I am listening to my speakers or my headphones and the illusion of space would be broken only if I move my head around because the positioning is still the same.
   
  Cherish this tiny little amp and show it to the next generations.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





audioisemotion said:


> Hi fellow Aune T1 owners, this is my first post ever anywhere.
> 
> So I turned to tubes (we call them valves) and did lots of research and then looked around. Seems I got lucky first time as I bought a VALVO PCC88 with D getter and waisted glass from 1957.
> 
> With good recordings these two are amazing. Everything is there, wide holographic sound stage,  tight bass, controlled highs but the midrange is stunning.


 
   
  Welcome to the forums and thanks for the very nice read. Seems like you hit the jackpot with that tube. Appears to be exactly what I'm looking for from good tube. Description fits my 7308 amperex, which has awesome natural controlled bass and very holographic sound stage. With that kind of tube you don't necessarily need any rolling since it already brings the best out of your T1. It's time to enjoy my friend!


----------



## akash neagi

I was wondering if any of you paired this with a HD518.....
  I plan on getting a amp for my HD518 and I was hoping for a tube amp.....


----------



## uncola

Worked great with my hd595. Keep in mind this is a tube dac and solid state amp. From what I read when the tube is in the dac it colors the sound less than when it's part of the amp, but I'm no expert


----------



## Vpr99

Does anyone have experience buying the T1 from Pennybuying on eBay? I ordered it about 2.5 weeks ago and the only tracking notification I've gotten is that the package has been accepted by China Post. Is this normal?
   
  I'm also very excited to join the T1 club when it shows up. I also found a great seller in the Ukraine for the 6n23p tubes... got two of them for $25 shipped.


----------



## uncola

yes that's very normal for stuff shipped from china. I think my tracking said accepted, then left point of origin, then nothing until it was delivered about 21 days later. Vpr99 make sure you are careful installing the plastic tube protectors. I broke two in a row despite being forewarned. When you install them try to push downwards on them only. No squeezing force


----------



## MrEleventy

Don't even bother with the fence. looks good without it. plus, it gets in the way of rolling.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> Don't even bother with the fence. looks good without it. plus, it gets in the way of rolling.


 
   
  +1


----------



## Vpr99

Quote: 





uncola said:


> yes that's very normal for stuff shipped from china. I think my tracking said accepted, then left point of origin, then nothing until it was delivered about 21 days later. Vpr99 make sure you are careful installing the plastic tube protectors. I broke two in a row despite being forewarned. When you install them try to push downwards on them only. No squeezing force


 
  Thanks for telling me about the plastic tube protectors... I'll be really careful with them. Where shipping is concerned, I got a message from the seller this morning. Evidently some *imbecile* at US Customs thought that it was a bomb, since it contained a vacuum tube and returned it to China. I found someone in the US who's selling it that'll ship from the US for about $20 more, so pennybuying is off the hook on this one. US Customs are the ones at fault.


----------



## Paspie

Well, I just ordered mine.  Could take up to a month to arrive, but who cares? I got the 6922 tube listed as the upgrade version on Amazon UK. I love refreshing my gear...


----------



## uncola

My voshkod russian tubes arrived.. and the sound quality is really terrible.. I guess you get what you pay for since these were dirt cheap
  Avoid this seller on ebay 
 [size=small]
 Seller: [size=inherit] [size=inherit]delax777mechanics[/size][/size]

[/size]  VOSKHOD 6N23P= E88CC = 6DJ8 8 pcs
  I guess I learned from this.. only buy tubes from reputable tube stores?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





uncola said:


> My voshkod russian tubes arrived.. and the sound quality is really terrible..


 
   
  Can you explain more how they sound? Are they broken or just bad sounding in general? If they are NOS they probably need some time. Also interested whether the different logo tubes have any sonic differences. Just popped in my rocket logo to confirm that it sounds very nice. Also your seller seems to have good feedback reputation?


----------



## buestad

Quote: 





vpr99 said:


> Does anyone have experience buying the T1 from Pennybuying on eBay? I ordered it about 2.5 weeks ago and the only tracking notification I've gotten is that the package has been accepted by China Post. Is this normal?
> 
> I'm also very excited to join the T1 club when it shows up. I also found a great seller in the Ukraine for the 6n23p tubes... got two of them for $25 shipped.


 
  I bought from the same seller. It took some time until It was sent from Hong Kong airport, but not two and a half weeks... From the package was marked as shipped in eBay to I got it was 12 days (to Norway)
   
  I Also bought the 6N23P voskhod tubes from Ukraine for 25$. They are great


----------



## unknowdata

My first post here! T1 took me a week to arrive. Amazing Tube Amp!


----------



## spongeworthy

Quote: 





vpr99 said:


> Does anyone have experience buying the T1 from Pennybuying on eBay? I ordered it about 2.5 weeks ago and the only tracking notification I've gotten is that the package has been accepted by China Post. Is this normal?
> 
> I'm also very excited to join the T1 club when it shows up. I also found a great seller in the Ukraine for the 6n23p tubes... got two of them for $25 shipped.


 
  I bought from him, but he either sent me the wrong tracking number, or didn't send my package at all, so I waited 2-3 weeks to see a package sent to someone else's address. He did offer to ship it express via DHL after however, but I still had to pay a hefty duty, so my experience was kind of lackluster.


----------



## stara

My mind was set to purchase a Fostex HP-A3, but then this black horse called Aune T1 grabbed my attention. Should I save 150 bucks for tube rolling and go with the Aune or stick with my original plan. Any toughts?
   
  Usage: PC only with USB.
  HP: Grado-SR80i (& possibly Klipsch Image X10 IEMS)


----------



## teb1013

vpr99 said:


> Thanks for telling me about the plastic tube protectors... I'll be really careful with them. Where shipping is concerned, I got a message from the seller this morning. Evidently some *imbecile* at US Customs thought that it was a bomb, since it contained a vacuum tube and returned it to China. I found someone in the US who's selling it that'll ship from the US for about $20 more, so pennybuying is off the hook on this one. US Customs are the ones at fault.




This is disturbing. I ordered mine from Pennybuying (through Amazon) about 3 weeks ago. I too have gotten nothing but the indication that the unit was "accepted" for shipping. I have been hoping that this would come in any day (feels like being a little kid again). I will be pretty upset if I get a message like yours! Hope your new order works out!


----------



## GaryPham

For anyone who's been lurking and thinking about picking up an Aune T1, I decided that I'll be selling mine (great dac/amp, but I decided to go full Magni/Modi since I think it might be better for a daily computer use setup).  It's the silver version, mint condition with EletroHarmonix 6922 tube (maybe 10 minutes of use), Amperex Orange Globe (bought NOS, maybe put 100 hours of use into it), and original box with packaging.  Message me if interested.


----------



## stara

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> I will and true. The $50 for the driver grade from upscaleaudio is not, however, the whole story. I was about to order the tube from there, but in the last phase of the ordering there was another $50 added for shipping. So the total would have been $100 which is WAY over my budget. From the Quartz stock I can only speak about the orange globe since that's the only one of their tubes I own at the moment. I was pretty confident to buy that 80+% 7308 because it's PQ version. The heater should work around 10.000 hours when new. Very nice silk screen too. Hopefully I have lots of time to enjoy that one. I find the tube descriptions in their website to be pretty cool so you should read them and see if they interest you. And like I said their shipping is 3 Singaporean dollars, which is about $2.5. If items are overpriced, they simply don't sell.
> 
> 
> Well I try to read a lot. Like I've been saying a good tube is good tube, but it doesn't necessarily mean that it has the best synergy with your headphones. I've been trying to get tubes from different brands to compare their sound signatures. For instance, get different 6DJ8 (or something else) tubes from different manufacturers and see if you find your favorites. I guess you could say that the premium versions like 6922 and 7308 are refined higher quality versions of those tubes. My advice is to look for Holland or USA Amperexes, Telefunkens and Siemens. They all have quality tubes IMO. I read this whole thread + most of the Lyr tube rolling thread + Joes tube lore before buying tubes.
> ...


 
   Top post. Thank you, Salvatore.


----------



## audiofrog

Has anyone on here done a comparison between the ELE and the Aune T1?  
   
  Dsnuts says that the ELE is superior for about $20. I'm skeptical but would love to hear if anyone on here has also tried the ELE.  
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/586909/the-discovery-thread-new-jant71s-take-on-the-new-ath-clr100-pg-618-zero-audio-carbo-basso-pg-601/4905
   
  -AudioFrog


----------



## CoiL

Cheap 20$ ELE transistor DAC superior over Aune T1 tube buffered DAC ? Don`t even need to think twice about it...
  Dsnuts says, so it must be true? lol I think that dude used only stock tube (was it even 6922EH or regular 6N11?) and it seems to me he didn`t do any tube rolling.
  Heck, I think he used only amp portion of Aune T1 anyway (without tube buffer). Read further comments from that thread... I wouldn`t take this seriously.


----------



## GaryPham

I don't know how credible the review of someone who says "seriously, trust a bro" can be....


----------



## BigCabDaddy

coil said:


> Cheap 20$ ELE transistor DAC superior over Aune T1 tube buffered DAC ? Don`t even need to think twice about it...
> Dsnuts says, so it must be true? lol I think that dude used only stock tube (was it even 6922EH or regular 6N11?) and it seems to me he didn`t do any tube rolling.
> Heck, I think he used only amp portion of Aune T1 anyway (without tube buffer). Read further comments from that thread... I wouldn`t take this seriously.




I'm learning to use the posts here for general direction, but ultimately we all have to do our own evaluations. An effective "filter" I'm learning to apply is making note of people who hear things similar to me. For instance, David Mahler seems to hear things similar to me. Jerg of jergpads fame seems to hear things a lot differently. So I try to weigh what Mahler says more heavily because I expect his observations to be close to my own.


----------



## CoiL

And that`s why I keep accentuating that we all need to consider many different things - ppl hear differently, different cans, different sound taste etc.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





garypham said:


> For anyone who's been lurking and thinking about picking up an Aune T1, I decided that I'll be selling mine (great dac/amp, but I decided to go full Magni/Modi since I think it might be better for a daily computer use setup).  It's the silver version, mint condition with EletroHarmonix 6922 tube (maybe 10 minutes of use), Amperex Orange Globe (bought NOS, maybe put 100 hours of use into it), and original box with packaging.  Message me if interested.


 
   
  Cool. Let us know how the M/M compares to the T1.


----------



## Ipzd123

In your opinion, how does a T1 with upgraded tubes stack up to a Audinst HUD-mx2 or the older mx1?


----------



## CoiL

Haven`t heard mx1 or mx2 personally but read reviews. I think Mike @ headfonia compared them and T1 was better than mx1. Imo there can`t be any comparing between them because you can "tune" the sound for your taste with tubes and tube sound is different - you like it or not. Google!
   
  And littlebit OT: Tesseract new album: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmR0gkojHDs&t=37m4s = tears with Aune T1 + Ultron PCC189 (gold label) ! So sweet, tight, punchy & musical! ;P
   
  E: oh, sry, that headfonia review was about Schiit Magni/Modi compared to Aune T1: http://www.headfonia.com/schitty-magni-and-modi/2/

   
Quote:


> Unfortunately, I have already technically owned the Schiit Combo for some time. The Aune T1 DAC/amp sounds almost identically the same but due to tube customization and it being both a DAC and a very good amplifier all by itself, I am going to say the Schiit combo is a step or two behind the Aune in quality. I think the T1 offers more.


----------



## Salvatore

That headphonia comparison was one of the deciding factors for me too. That plus the very affordable price of T1. Tube rolling for the sound tweaking and fun factor. Vintage tubes are also nice collectables + patient ebay sniping could make you a $ or two.


----------



## teb1013

Just got my new T1 from Pennybuying after about 3 weeks. My first attempt to run this from my iPad 3 with the CCK (as I do with my Fiio E7) resulted in the dreaded "low power" notice.  I then tried through a powered usb hub but no luck so far. I'm currently running off of my iMac. Even with only a few minutes of running using the stock Chinese tube I'm getting far more presence and soundstage through my HD558s than I did with the E7. These literally sound like new and much more refined headphones. If what I hear about burn in and tube rolling really works, I expect to be really happy. Now I just need to figure out how to route the CCK equipped iPad through the powered hub and all will be well. Incidentally I have set the T1 at a gain of 0, I assume that this is the best setting for low impedance phones like the 558s, what settings are others using with similar phones?


----------



## teb1013

Just noticed that the tube that came with my T1 is an Electro Harmonix 6922 EH "made in Russia" I don't know if this is considered an upgrade over the basic Chinese tube. My unit cost only $150 shipping included from China.


----------



## Salvatore

0 gain all the way. Yes the 6922EH is upgrade from the older stock tube and is actually pretty decent tube. Generally, however, the old NOS tubes are better than the new production tubes in my opinion.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> 0 gain all the way.


 
   
   
  Even with your K702 ?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> Even with your K702 ?


 
   
  Yep.


----------



## MrEleventy

My settings vary depending on the hps. I generally leave it on 0db to drive my lower ohm hps like M80s and IEMs. I use +10db with my HD600 & DT880 600ohms when doing amp comparisons, which isn't often.


----------



## stara

Quote: 





buestad said:


> Will a russian 6N1P-EV tube work in the Aune T1? An if, Will it be any good?


 
  Tried search, but I did not see any definite answers. These 6N1P, 6N1PVI, 6N1PEV & 6N1P-EB types are widely available at low price. I noticed that spec sheet is little bit different than 6DJ8/ECC88 standard and I saw some mentionings that "pre-amp only applications".
   
  So, my question for more achieved tube rollers out there. Will these work and are they any good?


----------



## stara

Quote: 





stara said:


> Tried search, but I did not see any definite answers. These 6N1P, 6N1PVI, 6N1PEV & 6N1P-EB types are widely available at low price. I noticed that spec sheet is little bit different than 6DJ8/ECC88 standard and I saw some mentionings that "pre-amp only applications".
> 
> So, my question for more achieved tube rollers out there. Will these work and are they any good?


 
  Never mind. It seems that the cyrillic letter "H" is pronounced "en", so is transliterated as both "h" and "n", so 6n23p = 6h23n. All US sellers use "H" and all Russian sellers use "N". Anyway, spec is little different.


----------



## MrEleventy

I have the 6n23p-eb and it's pretty solid as long as it's cheap. Like, $10 or less cheap. Any more than that, you might as well search for a amperex orange globe. You can pick one up for around $20/each on ebay if you're patient.


----------



## teb1013

I now have my new T1 playing from the iPad 3 through the CCK sounds fantastic through my HD558s. The only problem with this hook up is having to use a powered USB hub to avoid the "low power" glitch which iOS has with this unit. The clarity and detail of the music is amazing, especially with jazz recordings which are revealing details that never appeared with the Fiio E7. I am very pleased. I think that I will continue with the 6922 tube that came with the unit and see how it burns in.


----------



## buestad

According to Wikipedia 6N1P is a far relative to the 6DJ8. It has been tried in the T1 but not with any good results. The 6N32P from Voskhod (rocket logo) is a better alternative as first tube


----------



## uncola

Thought you might like to see a closeup of the tubes I have.. there's a CCCP logo to the right of the rocket you can't see.. this one I think I rubbed it off because it's not there.  I gave them another try and they still sound horrible.  it's like it's 8 bit 11khz music and dubstep beats sound like dubstep farts.  The tube says 6H23N rocket logo X-71 and some have a CCCP shield to the right of the rocket.  full pic http://i.imgur.com/jKQWfuo.jpg
  edit:  these are not New Old Stock, they're used which may account for the awful sound


----------



## stara

After cyrllic latin converstation try-outs, I ended buying 6N1P-EB Voskhod (rocket logo) tubes with OTK-1 marking from the '70s. I guess these are 6H1N-EV in cyrllic, but I'm not sure anymore ...
   
  "E" military standard (up to 5000 hours and more)
  "B" aka "V" stands for improved Tubes (double mica, thick glass, good pins - molybdenum)
  OTK-1 = For military equipment
   
  Things that makes me wonder is the differences in key values. Will these make a huge difference in "buffer" usage? 
   
  6N1P: Uf = 6.3 V, *If = 600 mA*, µ = 35,* Ia = 7.5 mA*, S = *4.35 mA/V*, Pa = 2.2 W
   
  6DJ8/ECC88: Uf = 6.3 V, *If = 365 mA*, µ = 33, *Ia = 15 mA*, S = *12,5 mA/V*, Pa = 1,8 W
   
   
  Quote:


buestad said:


> According to Wikipedia 6N1P is a far relative to the 6DJ8. It has been tried in the T1 but not with any good results. The 6N32P from Voskhod (rocket logo) is a better alternative as first tube


 
   
  So, it seems that they work, but not with good results and I should have opted 6n23p-eb instead ...
   
  Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrEleventy* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> I have the 6n23p-eb and it's pretty solid as long as it's cheap. Like, $10 or less cheap. Any more than that, you might as well search for a amperex orange globe. You can pick one up for around $20/each on ebay if you're patient.


 
   
  for better sound ...
   
  Quote:


uncola said:


> I gave them another try and they still sound horrible. The tube says 6H23N rocket logo X-71 and some have a CCCP shield to the right of the rocket.


   
  or not depending on individual taste. Oh well, not a huge monetary loss, four units less than $20 including shipping.


----------



## CoiL

I think uncola just have tubes that have gone bad. Remainds me of my two bad PCC189 Mullard`s (I also have 1 that is working great). 
   
  I don`t understand why are you so after those 6H1N-EV / 6N1P-EB tubes? Especially if it`s commented that 6N23P is better? It`s also cheap tube.
  Or just go for Amperex orange / Mullard ECC88 or cheaper alternatives Philips PCC189 / Ultron PCC189. 
   
  e: Where are you living? FI means Finland? If Finland, then order from uraltone.com some cheap Ultron PCC189`s.


----------



## myap2328

Hi guys. I stumbled onto this product just recently and was wondering if anyone has tried them out with the denon dxxx series or the fostex th-900?


----------



## stara

Quote: 





coil said:


> I think uncola just have tubes that have gone bad. Remainds me of my two bad PCC189 Mullard`s (I also have 1 that is working great).
> 
> I don`t understand why are you so after those 6H1N-EV / 6N1P-EB tubes? Especially if it`s commented that 6N23P is better? It`s also cheap tube.
> Or just go for Amperex orange / Mullard ECC88 or cheaper alternatives Philips PCC189 / Ultron PCC189.
> ...


 
  I pressed the "buy" button, before I saw the comments about 6N23P is better. So, that ship sailed ...
   
  I read that "PCC189 has a 7,6V serial connection heater and is a variable mu valve for regulated tuner inputs. If used in line level amps, it will produce lots of odd harmonic distortion. Not recommended.". PCC88 would be closer equavalent wtih ECC88/6DJ8. So, we are back in my question "Does these little differences really matter in "buffer" usage?
   
  Anyways, I'm planning to visit Uraltone in near future.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





stara said:


> Anyways, I'm planning to visit Uraltone in near future.


 
   
  Let me know if they have gold label ultrons or ultrons with proper factory codes.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





uncola said:


> Thought you might like to see a closeup of the tubes I have.. there's a CCCP logo to the right of the rocket you can't see.. this one I think I rubbed it off because it's not there.  I gave them another try and they still sound horrible.  it's like it's 8 bit 11khz music and dubstep beats sound like dubstep farts.  The tube says 6H23N rocket logo X-71 and some have a CCCP shield to the right of the rocket.  full pic http://i.imgur.com/jKQWfuo.jpg
> edit:  these are not New Old Stock, they're used which may account for the awful sound


 
   
  For the sake of comparison:
   

   
  Not the best photo I know, but my rockets have small ufo getter, rocket logo on top followed by 6n23p (in russian) and 9202 (numeral production code of some sort). You must have defect tubes because my rockets sound very good. The bass feels slightly bloated at times but not farty at all.
   
  E: No CCCP logos here.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





stara said:


> it will produce lots of odd harmonic distortion.


 
  And now search this thread and read all about those PCC189`s in REAL test with Aune T1 - no odd harmonic distortion or whatsoever (I have 8 different PCC189`s)! Also I spoke about that heater "poisoning" and variable mu some time ago - no problems with all the PCC189`s I`ve come across so far (except 2 used PCC189`s that are just leaking or burned out, crackly very weak sound, inside tube lot of black mica "dust"). Seriously, read this thread through and you get lots of info about tubes with Aune T1, no need to discover bicycle again! And seriously, if you are from Finland go ahead and buy Ultron PCC189 for sure, it is cheap and very good sounding tube!  For me it`s on par with Amperex Orange GAC. If you get your hands on golden label Ultron SQ PCC189`s, then prefer those to white labels but both are very good. 
   
  Sorry to everybody about Ultrons and Amperex A-frame orange`s analytical comparing that I promised after burn in. I haven`t had time to do it but will try this weekend. But I think much hasn`t changed in my opinion. I still prefer gold label ultrons over Amperex GAC and A-frame orange. White Ultrons are on par with Amperex GAC.
  Btw, I think one Amperex A-frame orange is littlebit different sounding and better than other (older one) but have to confirm it for sure with analytical listening.


----------



## FinalAura

Hey guys, just wanted to update.
   
  Got my unit and it sounds great. I paired with mine a $10 amperex bugle boy tube and love its sound with my grado rs2i's and KRK studio monitors. 
   
  One thing I wanted to bring up was that I asked earlier in this thread if this unit could be controlled via the taskbar volume control in windows (speaker icon at the bottom right corner). I could not do this with my previous usb dac (nuforce udac). A member answered that it was not possible, so I figured I had to get an external volume control unit to control volume for lineout to my monitors. Well in windows 8, I can definitely control the volume via windows with that volume taskbar icon, or with my keyboard. Don't know if this will work with any other windows version though. Just wanted to let you guys know.


----------



## stara

Quote: 





coil said:


> Seriously, read this thread through and you get lots of info about tubes with Aune T1, no need to discover bicycle again! And seriously,..


 
  Seriously, I have read all 122 pages. There's lots of info, sometimes contradicting info . After a while, ECC88, PCC88, PCC189, 6DJ8, 6N1P, 6N23P, etc. started to sound the same and I'll got confused. I already admitted that I jumped the gun with 6N1P. So what else do you want?
   
  Seriously, for my next purchase, I want to cross my t's and dot my i's and that said, in paper PCC189 has different spec than 6DJ8/ECC88 and to my understanding its original application is not the same than 6DJ8/ECC88 tubes. You state PCC189 works, then that's a great news. It means that there's an avenue to get NOS tubes on the cheap for AUNE T1.
   
  But seriously, you answered my question and I thank you for that. It seems these small differences in specs does not really matter, AUNE T1 can eat them all, whether it is ECC88, PCC88, PCC189 and depending on listener different tubes sound awesome or not..


----------



## buestad

I also ordered and payed for the 6N1P tubes once, but I redecided before they were shipped, so I altered the order to 6N23P through PMs to the seller. The 6N1P are used in the Schiit Lyr by some, so it might not be that bad. The guy I talked to who had tried the 6N1P had a bad channel in the tube, and the working channel was not any good, so that tube was probably used and weared out. A NOS tube might be ok. I have considered getting one afterwards just out of curiosity


----------



## buestad

(double post)


----------



## CoiL

> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Seriously, read this thread through and you get lots of info about tubes with Aune T1, no need to discover bicycle again! And seriously,..
> ...


 
  It`s ok. My comment was more towards to PCC189`s "distortion" and variable mu "problem". 
  But I seriously recommend you to try Ultron PCC189, especially because you are from Finland and can get them cheap from Uraltone.


----------



## stara

Quote:  





> Let me know if they have gold label ultrons or ultrons with proper factory codes.


 
  Answer was no, but I grabbed, I guess standard, Ultron PCC189 and JAN Phillips ECC88.


----------



## Tushma

Did anyone, maybe, hooked up T1 as preamp with nadc316bee? What was results? THNX in advance!!


----------



## CoiL

Stara, please give us all the codes and markings from your Ultron PCC189 and if it`s possible, take a picture too. Just curious about different Ultron PCC189 versions. And lets us know what you think about JAN Philips ECC88, I think this tube hasn`t been in here yet.


----------



## myap2328

It seems like this became a tube rolling thread but I have a question. How does this compare to the o2/Odac and magni/modi?


----------



## stara

Quote: 





myap2328 said:


> It seems like this became a tube rolling thread but I have a question. How does this compare to the o2/Odac and magni/modi?


 
  Only review I have seen is this.
   
http://www.headfonia.com/schitty-magni-and-modi/
   
  Based on discussions it generated, it seems to be, how should i put it, controversial.


----------



## stara

Quote: 





coil said:


> give us all the codes and markings from your Ultron PCC189 and if it`s possible, take a picture too.


 

   
  Here you go. PCC189/7ES8 and I guess patch number 50402. That's it, could not see anything else.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





myap2328 said:


> It seems like this became a tube rolling thread but I have a question. How does this compare to the o2/Odac and magni/modi?


 
   
  Not too many pages ago:
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> headfonia review was about Schiit Magni/Modi compared to Aune T1: http://www.headfonia.com/schitty-magni-and-modi/2/


 
   
  Here's few comments about O2/ODAC using the search option:
   
  "_I've seen comparisons between e17, m/m, e10, o2/odac & others in this thread, not just tubes -- otoh at this stage in the discussion other than tube comparisons what else sets the aune apart from the other amps at this price point top be honest? I don't say that as if I am hating on the aune or anything, it's beautiful kit and I love mine ... it's just tubes are what sets it apart and not much else._"
   
  "_See the Headphonia review of the Magni and Modi and the comments bellow it. It directly compares the T1 to the Schiit stack. Just make sure you take it with a grain of salt as usual . If you want a made in the USA product and you like the M&M look, go for it. If you want to experiment with tubes, go for the T1. If you want to be able to carry your stuff with your laptop (battery), go the O2 route._"
   
  "_I feel the same way, it's like with more power the highs get tamed on the dts 600 ohms. They smooth out and just sparkle. fwiw, the t1 outputs the most volts at 10+ db and that's the setting that I compared the t1 amp vs the objective2 stock 2.5x gain. the o2 sounded better overall._"
   
   
  What I've read it seems that T1, O2/ODAC and M/M are not too far away from each other. According to headfonia M/M is pretty similar with T1. O2 is probably more neutral sounding than the T1. What favors the T1 over these other two is the low price and the possibility to fine tune the sound via tube rolling. T1 is a solid state amp with tube buffer, so you are basically adding tubes into the SS system. However, in the buffer stage the tubes do not affect the sound nearly as much as they do in the dedicated tube amps. If you are on budget and don't want separate dac and amp, my recommendations (from personal experiences) are T1 and E17 (or better yet the upcoming E18 which works with android devices and hopefully doesn't have those annoying battery issues). E17 is portable, has built in EQ and sounds slightly bright. T1 on the other hand is mainly for desktop use, has tube buffer and sounds warmer and smoother. I also found the E17 mids to be slightly more forward, but it's been a while since the last time I plugged my E17 in. I've never tested MM or O2ODAC, but I have tested many other amps such as Lehmann Linear and Cambridge audio dacmagic plus. I have to say that T1 holds its own even against some of the more expensive amps. I remember toschek saying that Lyr is not so much better than the T1 (I believe he was talking about 15% increase in performance). For the low price T1 is highly recommended (even for blind buyers). Go for the amp that suits your needs and has the best price over performance ratio.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





stara said:


> Here you go. PCC189/7ES8 and I guess patch number 50402. That's it, could not see anything else.


 
   
  Same as mine. There seems to be no way to identify these.
   
  You went to Uraltone? Was it a cool shop / is it worth visiting. Maybe I should consider visiting there the next time I'll go to Helsinki.


----------



## stara

Quote: 





coil said:


> And lets us know what you think about JAN Philips ECC88, I think this tube hasn`t been in here yet.


 

   
  JAN 6922. 8713 AEX. Philips ECG. 34167 USA. I'll come back with sound preview, once the Aune arrives. I was expecting it today, but no luck so far.


----------



## stara

Based on quick search, I guess my JAN Philips is Sylvania tube.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





stara said:


>


 
   
  What are the factory codes in the glass? Found some info regarding the color of the prints:
   
Red Label: Industrial tubes designed for long heater hours, durability, high tolerance, shock and vibration resistance, special cathode construction
   
Yellow label: designed for long heater hours, durability, high tolerance 
   
Green label: computers, designed for long heater hours, durability, high tolerance curve points, special cathode construction 
   
Blue label: Aviation/aerospace. Special switching filaments. Used in missiles as an on-off switch, Industrial tubes designed for long heater hours, durability, high tolerance, shock and vibration resistance, special cathode construction
   
  http://www.tubemuseum.org/SearchResults.asp?Cat=20
  http://www.tube-classics.de/TC/Tubes/Valvo/Philipscolors.htm


----------



## penmarker

Anybody selling any of their tubes for cheap? My 6922 EH is probably broken now. There is a pretty major channel imbalance.


----------



## myap2328

Thanks all who replied me. The Headfonia review was the one who brought me here in the first place!  It seems like a good but, tube USB Dac with amp and with a price of less than SGD250, it seems like a good buy. Have anyone tried it with the th-900?


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





stara said:


> Seriously, I have read all 122 pages. There's lots of info, sometimes contradicting info . After a while, ECC88, PCC88, PCC189, 6DJ8, 6N1P, 6N23P, etc. started to sound the same and I'll got confused. I already admitted that I jumped the gun with 6N1P. So what else do you want?
> 
> Seriously, for my next purchase, I want to cross my t's and dot my i's and that said, in paper PCC189 has different spec than 6DJ8/ECC88 and to my understanding its original application is not the same than 6DJ8/ECC88 tubes. You state PCC189 works, then that's a great news. It means that there's an avenue to get NOS tubes on the cheap for AUNE T1.
> 
> But seriously, you answered my question and I thank you for that. It seems these small differences in specs does not really matter, AUNE T1 can eat them all, whether it is ECC88, PCC88, PCC189 and depending on listener different tubes sound awesome or not..


 
   
  hah, stara, I have the same concern as you with regards to the usability of PCC189s on T1.. you probably had read my post here.. So I guess is the buffer stage where tube is used in T1 that it will not be affected and have distortion due to the variable gain..
   
  but still, I haven't gone for the route of PCC189s.. hah.. the rest of other compatible tubes are better than good choices for me to choose already...


----------



## MrEleventy

salvatore said:


> "_I feel the same way, it's like with more power the highs get tamed on the dts 600 ohms. They smooth out and just sparkle. fwiw, the t1 outputs the most volts at 10+ db and that's the setting that I compared the t1 amp vs the objective2 stock 2.5x gain. the o2 sounded better overall._"




I believe that I was the one who made that comment . I think the amp portion of the T1 is just a tad bright for my DT880s and I favored the O2 for that reason. With the HD600, it performs quite admirably. I don't have the O2 at my office anymore for me to directly compare but I think it would be pretty even or lean toward the T1 since the 600 is more laidback and I like the sparkle & aggressiveness... up to a point. 
For me, I bought the T1 only with the intention of using it as a DAC for the tube buffer and I'm still immensely happy with it. I got the upgrade itch recently but I honestly couldn't find anything that would satisfy me without spending around 500 like a bitfrost. The cost of the bitfrost would eclipse the price of my entire chain at the moment (Aune T1 & Darkvoice 336se) and I just couldn't talk myself into pulling the trigger on it. I'm immensely happy with my current setup of DT880/600s & HD600 with that chain and I will probably just end up rolling tubes instead of actual upgrades. End game folks... but don't quote me on that. I am a gadget geek and love having new things just to have.


----------



## stara

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *Salvatore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> What are the factory codes in the glass? Found some info regarding the color of the prints:


 
  JANs that Uraltone have in stock are same as these:
   
http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6922JANNOS
   
"Please note that these tubes can be microphonic and may not be suitable for use in phono stage. We recommend 6922EH tubes for low microphony requirement."
   
  or these
   
http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/JAN-Military/JAN-Philips-6922-Low-Noise
   
  "This 6922 tube type was rated the "best buy" by Vacuum Tube Valley magazine in their 6DJ8 / 6922 tube shootout."
   
  I sincerely hope, its the latter. Anyway, factory code is 8713 AEX or 34167 USA.


----------



## MrEleventy

penmarker said:


> Anybody selling any of their tubes for cheap? My 6922 EH is probably broken now. There is a pretty major channel imbalance.


I have a spare pcc189 telefunken. pm me if you're interested.


----------



## myap2328

You mean the T1 is a bright can? Dang! Was looking at neutral-warm stuff.


----------



## MrEleventy

The T1s amp section is slighty bright. But you can color it through the tube buffer. Or you can use the line out. I find the dac itself is pretty neutral.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





stara said:


>


 
  Not sure about that. What are your JAN Philips ECG factory markings? I have JAN Sylvania 6922 and its quite similiar to 6922EH but with tighter bass & kick and mids are maybe tinybit better. Very large soundstage. I think this tube is great for electronic music (I think best tube I have for electronic music). For rock/metal/progressive/jazz it isn`t so great but it`s ok.
   


stara said:


> Here you go. PCC189/7ES8 and I guess patch number 50402. That's it, could not see anything else.


 
  Me and Salvatore also have same white label Ultron PCC189`s (also from uraltone). Let us know your opinion about that tube.


----------



## antonymous1991

Guys I read on some forums that the T1 is not suitable for low impedence cans/ IEM's.
  Has anyone tried the RE-400's with it? A lot of people do find it good for the he-400's!


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





antonymous1991 said:


> Guys I read on some forums that the T1 is not suitable for low impedence cans/ IEM's.
> Has anyone tried the RE-400's with it? A lot of people do find it good for the he-400's!


 
   
  Not tried re-400 but tried other iems ( Musical-fidelity eb50) . the fact is HEadphone output Impedance is a bit high ( 5 Ohms) and it's not perfect for low impedance cans/iem. 
   
  Nevertheless through my iem i couldn't hear any hum ou buzz frome T1's headphone output although my IEM allow me to detect hum and noises on any of my other sources.  T1's output is dead silent.


----------



## stara

T1 finally arrived. Ebay shop, amp_universe from GB, included euro power plug, That was a big suprise and a nice bonus. I was prepared to hook it up with travel adapter, no need now! Let the sounds begin with Electro Harmonix 6922 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.  
   
  Windows7 installed driver automatically and I changed T1 as default player. Based on earlier advices by Icecap & Coil, I guess WASAPI does not require any tweaking?
   
  Foobar with WASAPI output (Event mode, buffer default 1000ms and data format 24-bit). I guess, I'm set.


----------



## CoiL

WASAPI, ASIO or KSP, depends on player software you using. Easiest & fastest setup would be winamp + KSP imo. But depending on OS and files you playing, it might cause some problems. I use winamp asio output plugin + asio4all and no problems so far. With KSP I experienced some problems playing 24-bit 192kHz files but it was only once, might have been some other os problem. 
   
  That euro plug is standars extra with Aune T1 (at least from EU sellers) but it sucks actually, it has stupid shape that wont fit into deeper EU wall/extension sockets. I had to buy new one.
  And it`s recommended to change the fuse inside UK plug to something smaller value. By default it is ridiculously 15A, it should be something between 0,5-3A.


----------



## stara

Quote: 





coil said:


> That euro plug is standars extra with Aune T1 (at least from EU sellers) but it sucks actually, it has stupid shape that wont fit into deeper EU wall/extension sockets.


 
  Look at the picture, plug is actually in my unit at least, the proper euro plug, Its already plugged in standard euro-socket and T1 is rocking.
   
  I've seen the "chinese re-imagination fo euro plug" on my chinese android tablet, that does not fit anywhere...


----------



## CoiL

Sry didn`t notice that on the pic. But still, it`s not really good version - no grounding and fuse! My Aune T1 had that chinese re-imagination euro plug adapter that won`t fit anywhere  I kept the UK plug, changed the fuse and bought proper UK>EU adapter.


----------



## tommo21

Well...after lurking and reading all of the pages, I finally ordered me a Black T1. I'm gonna use it at work, using mainly my phone as source. It's a Galaxy Note II (flac mainly), which I fortunatly can send audio via usb(otg). Otherwise It wouldn't been very much point in buying this as I have understood.
   
  This will actually be my first head amp...or...it will be the first I will use as a head amp. I've had the Maverick Audio D1, and also have the TC Electronic BMC-2, but only used them as Dac's
   
  At the moment I'll be using my Shure SH-840's, but I'm drooling over the Philips Fidelio X1, which I probably will buy soon.
   
  As for tuberolling, I'm not new at this game, so I already have ha small stock of 6DJ8/6922 tubes. Tubes I've got are; Siemens Halske CCa, Siemens Halske E88CC, Jan/Philips 6922, EH 6922(These are the stock tube right?), JJ Electronic E88CC, and Elite Goldpin 6DJ8(these have been very good in other installations) Of course I'm very much looking forward to trying the CCa. Just have to wait a few weeks now for the T1 to arrive. Meanwhile I might get me a Mullard tube and also a 7308. Then the tuberolling will commence
   
  I also have a few Hal-o tubedampers lying around...any one tried tubedampers on the T1?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





tommo21 said:


> I'm gonna use it at work, using mainly my phone as source. It's a Galaxy Note II (flac mainly), which I fortunatly can send audio via usb(otg).
> 
> I also have a few Hal-o tubedampers lying around...any one tried tubedampers on the T1?


 
   
  As a Note II owner myself I'd be interested to know how that setup works out. Keep us posted!
   
  I think the dampers are mostly to reduce microphonics, which seems to be more of an issue with dedicated tube amps. In my experience, T1 doesn't even heat tubes too much so you can roll without burning your hands.


----------



## tommo21

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> As a Note II owner myself I'd be interested to know how that setup works out. Keep us posted!


 
  I  tried to hook up my Note II to my Rega Dac via the OTG Adapter and usb-cable to USB input on the Rega, and it worked flawlessly. That's what made my mind up today. I'm sure it will work on the T1 as well. Had an OTG adapter from before and it was plug and play almost.
   
  I've also ordered me a 1964 Mullard ECC88 NOS today, but changed my mind on the headphones(wanted Philips Fidelio X1's), but because I need closed headphones at work, I ordered me a AKG K551 instead. It was either that or the Sennheiser Momentum, but I got the AKG for $175 dollars less than the Momentum, so didn't think about it that long.


----------



## teb1013

Trying out a Voskhod 6n23p, I don't know if I can truly tell the difference between this and the eh 6922 that came with my T1, but this is a nice sounding tube and I think I'll leave it in foa a while and see what develops.


----------



## CoiL

teb, then it seems you have to practice more analytical listening, it isn`t easy thing if you haven`t done it before. For me 6N23P (reflector) and 6922EH are totally different sounding tubes. 6922EH is good for electronic music but 6N23P better for rock/metal/progressive/jazz, not sure about classical but I think 6922EH is better due to large airy soundstage.
   
  Btw, is your iPad3/iOS set up correctly? Streaming through memory and not using any OS related internal filtering? Although, I`m not so familiar with iPads and iOS setup, maybe you don`t have to adjust anything to get pure sound output like WASAPI, ASIO or KSP under windows.
   
   



tommo21 said:


> As for tuberolling, I'm not new at this game, so I already have ha small stock of 6DJ8/6922 tubes. Tubes I've got are; Siemens Halske CCa, Siemens Halske E88CC, Jan/Philips 6922, EH 6922(These are the stock tube right?), JJ Electronic E88CC, and Elite Goldpin 6DJ8(these have been very good in other installations) Of course I'm very much looking forward to trying the CCa. Just have to wait a few weeks now for the T1 to arrive. Meanwhile I might get me a Mullard tube and also a 7308. Then the tuberolling will commence


 
  You have those great tubes and still ordering Mullard ECC88?  But yeah, tube rolling is fun sickness 
  I`m really curious about your opinion @ CCa & JJ E88CC compared to Mullard ECC88 & 6922EH tube.
   
  Tomorrow I will try to find time to finally compare White/Gold label Ultron PCC189 VS. Amperex A-frame orange`s & GAC and maybe Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 toosince it`s also very good tube.


----------



## teb1013

Thanks CoiL. I do need some practice. I put the 6922eh back in and am listening to classical piano. A nice liquid sound. I don't like pulling one tube and replacing with another every few minutes. I 'll compare these over a few days or weeks.

I play the Aune from the iPad through the Camera Connection Kit which gives a digital signal, no EQ and no driver . The main annoyance with iOS is that a direct connection from the iPad through the CCK to the Aune won't work due to a "low power" reading (something that never happened with the Fiio E7 (so long as the USB charge feature was disabled). With the Aune I have to use a powered hub, no idea why.


----------



## CoiL

Thats weird because like I`ve said many times - Aune T1 does not drow any power from usb.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





tommo21 said:


> changed my mind on the headphones(wanted Philips Fidelio X1's), but because I need closed headphones at work, I ordered me a AKG K551 instead.


 
   
  I hope you did your research of K551 vs K550. K551 is more suitable for portable use, but K550 is said to be sonically superior (don't know if it's the ****ty cable of K551 or what). I really love my K550. Definitely one of the best closed cans I've ever heard.


----------



## tommo21

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> I hope you did your research of K551 vs K550. K551 is more suitable for portable use, but K550 is said to be sonically superior (don't know if it's the ****ty cable of K551 or what). I really love my K550. Definitely one of the best closed cans I've ever heard.


 

 From what I read the only real difference is the colours and the cable. The K550 has a screw on 1/4" adapter while the K551 doesnt have 1/4" adapter at all. That won't be a problem, because I got plenty of those. When seen the two compared there's hardly anything sonically between them, other than maybe a slight tonally difference in the bass. I'm gonna use it at my desk at work, and probably buy me a portable amp also, so then I think the K551 is the right choice. 3m cable would get in the way for me at my desk. And for only $159 NIB for the black K551 it's not a problem anyway if it doesn't work out.
   
  I've seen reviews here in Norway and Europe where the K551 gets a slightly higher rating than the K550.


----------



## CoiL

Little update: Amperex A-frame GA8 deltaF03 (should be orange globe logo, from 1970) is imo better than A-frame GAE delta2A3 (should be PQ logo amperex,from 1972). GAE is more towards Mullard ECC88, has tinybit brighter highs but being littlebit "flat" and "closed" @ highs. GA8 is towards Amperex GAC, more open and warm highs. Differences are little but they are there, at least to my ears. 
   
  And littlebit offtopic, great new album from NYM: http://music.ratsofnym.com/album/trembling-in-the-stone-a-charity-record


----------



## teb1013

​


coil said:


> Thats weird because like I`ve said many times - Aune T1 does not drow any power from usb.




I had read your comment to that effect and assumed that there would be no problem, but iOS is strange that way. There is a whole thread of people having issues with various dacs when played with the iPad. As I said the little Belkin powered hub I'm using is hardly a problem, but I still wonder why the iPad reads the powered Aune as drawing power from the USB, but not the Fiio E7.


----------



## debuchan

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> Has anyone on here done a comparison between the ELE and the Aune T1?
> 
> Dsnuts says that the ELE is superior for about $20. I'm skeptical but would love to hear if anyone on here has also tried the ELE.
> 
> ...


 

 I have both and it's no contest- the Aune T1 dominates. I bought the ELE dac off this site for cheaps. (I didn't see Dsnuts' review of it before I tried it, though)
   
  I will say that it is better than onboard sound, but does not "beat the poo out of it."


----------



## CoiL

And I just ordered ELE D01 just for fun & gift for my friend laptop (because it`s dirt cheap). Wasn`t hoping any competition against Aune T1 but like you said - better than onboard sound.


----------



## grizzlybeast

I am going to purchase some 650's soon and already have the aune t1 on order. Research on here says that the 650's need a really strong amp to bring out its dynamics. Would the aune t1 do this or should I consider the schiit lyr.
   
  Help is much appreciated. I am just nervous that it may not do the hd 650 justice because it is so affordable and most recommend a serious amp because they are so scalable. I wouldnt want to be underwhelmed and then sell the 650's as soon as i got them.  But I can't think of a better headphone for my tastes at the moment anyway.


----------



## MrEleventy

Because they're so scalable, you should sell the amp if you're underwhelmed, not the other way around. I have the hd600s and ran them straight from the t1 and they pair very nicely. I find the amp portion to be slightly bright so it helps give the highs a some sparkle.


----------



## joeq70

I'm happy for all of you out there who are enjoying the T1. My favorite tube is still my Voskhod Rocket Logo. It has so much energy with my Magnums!


----------



## grizzlybeast

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> Because they're so scalable, you should sell the amp if you're underwhelmed, not the other way around. I have the hd600s and ran them straight from the t1 and they pair very nicely. I find the amp portion to be slightly bright so it helps give the highs a some sparkle.


 
  You are very right. I think that I need to work on my patience


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> Because they're so scalable, you should sell the amp if you're underwhelmed, not the other way around. I have the hd600s and ran them straight from the t1 and they pair very nicely. I find the amp portion to be slightly bright so it helps give the highs a some sparkle.


 
   
  +1
   
  I recently purchased a HD580 and it sounds very very good with my T1. I have a K501 too and it seems the combo is not perfect to my ears. The point is all the interest of Aune T1 is the DAC/Tube stage. And tube is uncluded when we use Line out! So, using T1's LO with an additionnal amp is IMO a very good way to upgrade T1's ability to match with all the most power demanding headphones  
   
  In conclusion, you can definitely go for T1 for your hD650 .


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> The point is all the interest of Aune T1 is the DAC/Tube stage. And tube is uncluded when we use Line out! S, using T1's LO with an additionnal amp is IMO a very good way to upgrade T1's ability to match with all the most power demanding headphones
> 
> In conclusion, you can definitely go for T1 for your hD650 .


 
   
  +1. This is very much true.


----------



## MrEleventy

sorrodje said:


> The point is all the interest of Aune T1 is the DAC/Tube stage. And tube is included when we use Line out! So, using T1's LO with an additionnal amp is IMO a very good way to upgrade T1's ability to match with all the most power demanding headphones



+1

 I'm doing that at the very moment, Aune t1 as dac and darkvoice 336se for the amp. Before that I was using an Objective 2 so it scales nicely too.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> Before that I was using an Objective 2 so it scales nicely too.


 
   
  Really?  
   
  I'm thinking about Lake people G103 myself but a friend of mine will probably loan me an O2 and I didn't know what to expect


----------



## MrEleventy

By it, I was referring to the t1. but, objective2 is still nice. if I didn't have the dt880 600 ohm, I might still be running ss amps.


----------



## Sorrodje

Oh Sorry . i misunderstood your point .  I thought you added O2 to your T1 and could compare embedded amp and O2  
   
  Fortunately, I think  I will be able to give my thought about T1 + O2 combo  at the end of June. 
   
  Maybe  blablabla around Tube rolling is over. It's time to speak about amp rolling 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> Maybe  blablabla around Tube rolling is over. It's time to speak about amp rolling
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  True. Pretty much everything has been said about the (most common) tubes. I guess it's time for the amp rolling indeed. Maybe someday I'll buy M-Stage to go with my T1.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Maybe someday I'll buy M-Stage to go with my T1.


 
   
  I thought about the same thing but from what I read here or there , I don't think M-stage brings so much improvement . I'm quite sure T1's amp is at least as powerful as M-stage.  Before I got my T1 , i sold my Asgard but now I really regret not having tested the combo. Especially with my sig pro which would benefit from more control especially in bass department. 
   
  I read on Rock grotto forum a review about Aune Panda S2 amp .. and reviewer compared with T1 and it seemed T1 was at least as good.  
   
  This little T1 is really a special piece of gear


----------



## MrEleventy

sorrodje said:


> Oh Sorry . i misunderstood your point .  I thought you added O2 to your T1 and could compare embedded amp and O2
> 
> Fortunately, I think  I will be able to give my thought about T1 + O2 combo  at the end of June.
> 
> ...


oh, oops. yeah, I did run t1 + o2. I thought you thought that I meant o2 was scalable.  lol it's probably still a good setup I just didn't feel right knowing that the dt880/600s max input exceeds the o2s max voltage output. ocd and all.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> This little T1 is really a special piece of gear


 
   
  Maybe it's time to buy more headphones then. X1 for missus and HD800 for myself, lol


----------



## buestad

About the amp rolling I have been looking at the millet minimax. It's a hybrid (solid state & tubes) diy amp. Has anyone tested that combo?


----------



## MrEleventy

The problem with a tube amp is... more tube rolling.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> The problem with a tube amp is... more tube rolling.


 
   
   
  NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


----------



## MrEleventy

sorrodje said:


> This little T1 is really a special piece of gear




+1, definitely. I got some Telefunken PCC189 for my dark/warm hps and my amperex orange globes for my bright cans. I'm alll set. Just curiosity is making me think about getting an amperex 7308. I'd rather spend that money toward rolling 6SN7s now that I'm satisfied with rolling 6as7s. Too many tubes to roll. :\


----------



## Sorrodje

I fixed my tube rolling addiction with a E188CC ( equivalent to 7308 )  NOS from early 60s .  I have one a bit more modern ( early seventies ) . Both sound perfectly transparent and .. "right" .. just right and refined with great transparency.  That's said , I keep my other tubes  ( E88CC Mullard , Orange Label PQ 6922 Amperex , 6N27p and 6N23P-EB NOS Russian tubes)  in the case I would change my T1 for another amp like Indeed G3 or sunrise project for example. 
   
  But we've said "no more blablabla about tubes" haven't we ?


----------



## roguegeek

Just picked up the HD 600 and the last thing I want to do is warm these things up anymore than they already are. It sounds like the Mangi/Modi is going to push it in the right direction for me over the T1.


----------



## MrEleventy

roguegeek said:


> Just picked up the HD 600 and the last thing I want to do is warm these things up anymore than they already are. It sounds like the Mangi/Modi is going to push it in the right direction for me over the T1.




Not neccessarily. There are bright tubes as well. And the amp portion is bright as well. I have the HD600 and rather like it with the right tubes. I still prefer the 880s tho.


----------



## CoiL

roguegeek, Tesla PCC88 (yellow label, 32 marking, made in Czech) is one of the brighter tubes I would recommend you to try. It`s good tube but littlebit too bright with HD-681 mkII for me. Although, sound great with classical music with this setup.
  I already recommended it to someone from this thread with "dark-sided & warm" cans.
  Btw, what tube are you using atm? Philips PCC189 & Lorenz PCC189 are also littlebit brighter choices than Amperex orange.
  Mazda PCC189 & Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 are unfortunately too hard to find to try for you.


----------



## grizzlybeast

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> +1
> 
> I recently purchased a HD580 and it sounds very very good with my T1. I have a K501 too and it seems the combo is not perfect to my ears. The point is all the interest of Aune T1 is the DAC/Tube stage. And tube is uncluded when we use Line out! So, using T1's LO with an additionnal amp is IMO a very good way to upgrade T1's ability to match with all the most power demanding headphones
> 
> In conclusion, you can definitely go for T1 for your hD650 .


 
  gotcha. so that means that the tube and dac work together and i can add an amp for more power later?
   sorry if my understanding is minimal. I am eager to learn though. It seems pretty simple.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





grizzlybeast said:


> gotcha. so that means that the tube and dac work together and i can add an amp for more power later?


 
   
   
  Right ! Definitely.


----------



## stara

Thinking about headphone upgrade. What do you think would be ideal with T1? 32, 250 or 600ohm?


----------



## CoiL

Ok, one more little update. This time about Ultron PCC189`s. White label has tinybit brighter highs, tinybit less tight bass & kick and soundstage goes tinybit further from back of your head than gold label - thus making it tinybit better overall tube for every genre than gold label Ultron. Gold label is still better for rock/metal/progressive/jazz imho. Once again I have to point out that differences are very small but they are there.
  Btw, I`m changing my opinion about Sylvania 6922 having also burned it more and compared it against 6922EH again. Sylvania has great air in it`s sound but the soundstage is littlebit more narrow at the front of soundstage (I don`t really know how to say it), making 6922EH littlebit better for atmospheric electronic music. Sylvania has slightly better mids and tighter bass but soundstage/separation/transparency comes first for me when it comes to electronic atmospheric music. 
  But I also threw in white Ultron PCC189 few times in between and I have to say - white label Ultron PCC189 just has that sweet spot @ soundstage, air, tightness, separation, transparency etc. that it makes it the best overall tube for every music genre, at least from my tube collection. It`s so musical and sounds just great with everything I throw at it. Sometimes I even think It`s also better for electronic music than 6922EH because it has so good transparency. Once again I have to "hype" littlebit about Ultron PCC189 - awesome cheap tube I definitely recommend to get, especially for those who listen very different genres of music and don`t want to get into tube rolling sickness.


----------



## FinalAura

Where can I purchase an ultron PCC189? I'm also curious to try the voskhod rocket logo...
   
  Right now i'm using an amperex orange globe w.germany and it sounds great, but i'm wanting something thats a little more forward. I've already gone through 3 other tubes as well. This is kinda getting out of hand, haha.


----------



## CoiL

If you are in EU, then best place would probably be Uraltone. In US it`s quite hard to get unfortunately but someone in here bought many of them but I think he already sold some and won`t sell anymore. Voskhod rocket (I doubt it makes so much difference with reflector logo) and JJ E88CC would be the tubes I`m still curious about but I have too many tubes already and I`m really happy with Ultron PCC189`s (2 white + 2 gold label) & Oranges (2x A-Frames + 1 GAC) & 2x Miniwatt-Dario PCC189`s  
   
  I`m *maybe* starting to think about sell some of my tubes: 2x Lorenz PCC189, 1x Philips PCC189, 1x Mullard ECC88, 1x Mullard PCC189, 1x 6N23P (reflector), 1x Brimar ECC88, 1x Tesla PCC88, 1x Mazda PCC189. But it`s quite lovely collection and it`s fun to try with others cans


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





finalaura said:


> Right now i'm using an amperex orange globe w.germany and it sounds great, but i'm wanting something thats a little more forward.


 
  If you want something more foward-type, then Ultron PCC189 isn`t for you probably. If you want really warm & intimate foward sounding tube I would recommend Mullard PCC189 (warning, there are many different of them, at least 3). 6N23P reflector is also good intimate & foward but I find it littlebit "through the blanket" sounding.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





finalaura said:


> Right now i'm using an amperex orange globe w.germany and it sounds great, but i'm wanting something thats a little more forward.


 
   
  Siemens 7DJ8 and Voshkod rocket. Siemens is better, but also more expensive and harder to get. From rockets I can only vouch for the one without CCCP logo.


----------



## FinalAura

coil said:


> If you want really warm & intimate foward sounding tube I would recommend Mullard PCC189 (warning, there are many different of them, at least 3). 6N23P reflector is also good intimate & foward but I find it littlebit "through the blanket" sounding.




Thanks for the suggestion. I recently picked up this tube which is supposedly a ge but manufactured by Mullard.http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=400468021931&cmd=VIDESC I'm not sure if it's the same as the one you mentioned but it does sound a little "through the blanket" I just find that's its not as clear in vocals compared to the orange globe or bugle boy, but it still has a warm sound.

I think I'm probably going to send up purchasing a voskhod sometime soon. Hope that's my last tube


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





stara said:


> Thinking about headphone upgrade. What do you think would be ideal with T1? 32, 250 or 600ohm?


 
  Any of those can work just fine! I would not use the T1 with the LCD2 but if you go for Grado (or my favorite, the Symphones Magnum X) then you will be in great shape. HD800 and HD650 are fine, DT880 and 990 are fine. AKG K702 is good. Just depends on your preference!


----------



## CoiL

Soon I will hopefully get a chance to try DT-990 Edition (I think it was 250Ohm) with Aune T1.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





finalaura said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. I recently picked up this tube which is supposedly a ge but manufactured by Mullard.http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=400468021931&cmd=VIDESC I'm not sure if it's the same as the one you mentioned but it does sound a little "through the blanket"


 
  My Tube has large O-ring getter and metal center vertical plate. Factory code is BAK2. I don`t remember what color logo it had because I "washed" it off  I think descriprion is somewhere in this thread but if I remember correctly it had yellow old style Mullard logo.
  What is your GE factory code? I`m pretty sure we don`t have same tubes. Also my tube is PCC189 and yours ECC189. And my Mullard doesn`t have "through the blanket" sound like my 6N23P reflector.


----------



## vurtomatic

I hope this is not too vague a question:
   
  So I finally got a working T1 which works without hassle and currently using it with an Amperex 6DJ8 and Beyer 990 250 Ohm.
   
  Listening to electronic music (dance and ambient/atmospheric) and I notice the highs are really high.
   
  Is there a tube that can help tame the highs?


----------



## CoiL

Hmmm, is your Amperex 6DJ8 Orange globe? With orange it should be already tamed enough. But if it`s orange I would change tube anyway for electronic music because of soundstage. Maybe your amperex is too "in your face" for that and highs won`t "roll away into air". 
 Stock 6922EH tube is also too bright? If you could wait 1 week then I could say exact opinion about DT-990.


----------



## vurtomatic

Yup, I believe it's orange globe.
   
  Here're pics from the ebay auction I bought it off:


----------



## CoiL

Then it must be cans probably. You could try Ultron PCC189 too but it wouldn`t make much difference I think. Have you tried different gain settings? No change towards tamed highs?


----------



## vurtomatic

I thought about the gain, mine was at +16 (it came like that) so I turned it down to 0. Will do more listening and compare. Thanks for the suggestion!


----------



## vurtomatic

Quote: 





coil said:


> Stock 6922EH tube is also too bright? If you could wait 1 week then I could say exact opinion about DT-990.


 
   
  BTW I also tried it with the 6922EH. The highs are the same except 6922EH seems to have an airier soundstage making the music I was listening to sound 'thin.' I think you might've mentioned that the 6922EH is better for atmospheric music (?), which I'd agree with.


----------



## lolspops

This just showed up on a certain group buy website for $119.99 and I'm seriously considering picking up my first DAC/Amp. However, I was wondering how it pairs with my AD900X with the stock tube.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





vurtomatic said:


> BTW I also tried it with the 6922EH. The highs are the same except 6922EH seems to have an airier soundstage making the music I was listening to sound 'thin.' I think you might've mentioned that the 6922EH is better for atmospheric music (?), which I'd agree with.


 
  Yeah, 6922EH is great tube for electronic music imho. Makes it more "airy". Still one of my favs for electronic but it`s my personal preference. 3 other great tubes for electronic atmospheric music I recommend: JAN Sylvania 6922 (littlebit better mids & tighter bass than 6922EH but somewhat tinier soundstage) , Tungsram PCC88 (tighter & punchier bass than 6922EH), Mazda PCC189 (lacks littlebit @ mids) & Ultron PCC189 white label (not so airy soundstage as 6922EH but great transparent sound).
   
  Btw, it`s kinda weird that your Amperex has same highs that 6922EH does. Amperex orange should be noticeably warmer @ highs. Not sure but maybe those cans won`t react so well to tube changing and aren`t so good match with Aune T1. One more thing - is your audio source set up correctly? ASIO, WASAPI or KSP? And just in case - are you using USB audio source? Because tube buffer is being used ONLY when USB input is chosen.


----------



## deviot

Looking at getting a DAC/Amp combo and the Aune T1 is on my list.
   
  My headphones are PSB M4U1's and believe they will benefit from a amp. Tried a small 'Hippo' amp and with the bass boost on the headphones have the extra bass I was after. Quality was about the same as only playing a 256 mp3 from my iphone, but as I generally use my iMac with Flac (atm using Vox player) so I was also after a DAC. So far I have tried software eq but result are nowhere near the hardware bass boost sound from the 'Hippo' and sometimes my headphones even get distorted (and yes I know how to eq).
   
  So my question is it able to get the Aune T1 pumping the extra bass as well as all the other benefits (tube swap?) or will I have to rely on also software eq? Will the use of a DAC/Amp improve the sound quality of the software eq? Or am I better off going with something like the Fiio E17 for the hardware eq'ing of bass.
   
  Let me know what you think or your suggestions?
   
  PS: Love the look of the Aune T1 so really hope it will fit my needs.
   
  EDIT: Setup to use apple AU Labs & Soundflower and EQ is about 100 times better! So this is looking more and more like a good option.


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> Btw, it`s kinda weird that your Amperex has same highs that 6922EH does. Amperex orange should be noticeably warmer @ highs. Not sure but maybe those cans won`t react so well to tube changing and aren`t so good match with Aune T1. One more thing - is your audio source set up correctly? ASIO, WASAPI or KSP? And just in case - are you using USB audio source? Because tube buffer is being used ONLY when USB input is chosen.




 yeah, I find that weird as well. Orange globe doesn't tame all of the highs but it does make it a whole lot more bearable than the 6922eh . It made me second guess selling the 990s which is huge because I wanted to sell it the same day I got it.


----------



## stara

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Any of those can work just fine! I would not use the T1 with the LCD2 but if you go for Grado (or my favorite, the Symphones Magnum X) then you will be in great shape. HD800 and HD650 are fine, DT880 and 990 are fine. AKG K702 is good. Just depends on your preference!


 
  DT880 that is then. Thanks.


----------



## vurtomatic

Quote: 





coil said:


> Yeah, 6922EH is great tube for electronic music imho. Makes it more "airy". Still one of my favs for electronic but it`s my personal preference. 3 other great tubes for electronic atmospheric music I recommend: JAN Sylvania 6922 (littlebit better mids & tighter bass than 6922EH but somewhat tinier soundstage) , Tungsram PCC88 (tighter & punchier bass than 6922EH), Mazda PCC189 (lacks littlebit @ mids) & Ultron PCC189 white label (not so airy soundstage as 6922EH but great transparent sound).
> 
> Btw, it`s kinda weird that your Amperex has same highs that 6922EH does. Amperex orange should be noticeably warmer @ highs. Not sure but maybe those cans won`t react so well to tube changing and aren`t so good match with Aune T1. One more thing - is your audio source set up correctly? ASIO, WASAPI or KSP? And just in case - are you using USB audio source? Because tube buffer is being used ONLY when USB input is chosen.


 
   
  Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> yeah, I find that weird as well. Orange globe doesn't tame all of the highs but it does make it a whole lot more bearable than the 6922eh . It made me second guess selling the 990s which is huge because I wanted to sell it the same day I got it.


 
   
  I definitely prefer the Amperex over the 6922, it does sound warmer in general, I just didn't notice that much difference in the highs. It felt more like because the 6922 is arier it made the highs sound brighter while the Amperex evened things up. Sorry I'm new to this though, so my ears probably aren't 'trained' 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Could also likely be the MP3s I have or the music—I will do more listening!
   
  Hmmm I'm on the Mac and in sound preference the T1 is selected. The switch on the T1 is also switched to USB, not Line.


----------



## stara

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> really? I'm doing well with 0 gain. And yeah T1 is worth the price.


 
  Default setting is 16Db and picture in manual is inaccurate, right? To set set zero gain, I need to pull both switches opposite direction?


----------



## vurtomatic

Pull all of them away from ON.


----------



## Paspie

_Delete_


----------



## Paspie

My unit arrived today, works as it should. Nice beefy PSU. I ordered it with the 6922 tube, which is listed as the 'Upgrade' version on Shenzhen Audio's website. Interestingly, Linux seems to detect as not only an output but also an input device, I wonder if its just being optimistic or if it can actually record from the analogue input. Anyway, very happy with the sound as it is.
   
  http://i.imgur.com/BLJAKgI.jpg


----------



## CoiL

Double post by you. Btw, have you set up your linux correctly? I started using Aune T1 first with Ubuntu 12.04 LTS and though it sounded great without setting anything, it got way better when setting up ALSA correctly. It`s littlebit hassle (as always with linux) but it`s worth it. Only bad thing was that after reboot I had to set it up again. Got tired of this and moved back to Windows 7.
   
  Here is something I wrote @ Rockgrotto forum: 
   


> Naaah, it seems that under Ubuntu it isnt so simple. Noticed, that output was set to analog and that seemed wierd. Also something had changed in sound (littlebit like mono). PulseAudio seems to cause problems. I`m using Clementine and its Gstreamer output setting must be set to ALSA. After that there should be DigiHub S/PDIF Digital out at sound settings - select it.
> 
> Terminal: alsamixer
> ALL other sound devices and their input/output values must be 0 (F6 selects device).
> ...


----------



## CoiL

Who wants good tube for electronic music - 2x JAN Sylvania 6922 on sale: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181144262875?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1431.l2649
   
  I decided to bid on another tubes and someone can take over cheaply, I won`t bid anymore.
  I already have one JAN Sylvania 6922.
  But if I win, then I get some good tubes cheap anyway 

 E: Got this lot (4x PCC88) for only 6.45€ (post included) ! Even if only one tube is working, it`s still a steal 

   
  And it seems to me that there are at least 2 different Tungsram PCC88`s. 3rd from the left I already have. 4th Tungsram seems to be with different plate under getter. 1st & 2nd tube are new in my collection (although I have Yellow 32 marking Tesla, don`t know if they are same).
  Will update when I receive them.


----------



## FinalAura

Are trades allowed here? I'm wondering if anyone in the US would be down to do a straight trade of one of my Amperex Orange Globes for a Voskhod (rocket logo) or Siemens, just a tube thats more forward sounding. My curiosity is getting the best of me, haha.


----------



## CoiL

Seems that someone got those JAN Sylvania 6922`s for only 8.5 $ Good tubes, enjoy them!


----------



## Paspie

Quote: 





coil said:


> Double post by you. Btw, have you set up your linux correctly? I started using Aune T1 first with Ubuntu 12.04 LTS and though it sounded great without setting anything, it got way better when setting up ALSA correctly. It`s littlebit hassle (as always with linux) but it`s worth it. Only bad thing was that after reboot I had to set it up again. Got tired of this and moved back to Windows 7.


 
  Nah, I'm on openSUSE using the default ALSA system, no Pulseaudio here. The only change I had to make was to bump the volume up a bit. Its listed as PCM for playback here, DigiHug USB Audio.


----------



## lolspops

Quote: 





coil said:


> Seems that someone got those JAN Sylvania 6922`s for only 8.5 $ Good tubes, enjoy them!


 
  That would be me


----------



## CoiL

Got myself another tube for only 5.5€ - Valvo (old logo) PCC88  I know I promised to end my tube hoarding... but... you know... that black-money-sucking-box is curse! 
   
  If I receive those 5x PCC88`s then my tube collection has 27 tubes (23 of them are different from eachother) O_o


----------



## Magirush

Hey everyone, I'm not sure if this question needs to be moved to a new thread. If so, let me know. 
I'm fairly new to the world of good audio, and my current setup involves either playing tracks directly through a cdj 2000 cd player and into a djm 2000 mixer's headphone amp which I plug my hd555s into, or USB to the cdj and using that as a dac then analogue into the mixer. 
If that sounds a bit silly, you wouldn't believe that pioneer puts some really high quality circuitry into their dj gear. The thing is, though, that the dj gear belongs to a friend of mine and I mostly just use it for the sound. I will probably not always have access to that kit, and I'd like to get a decent dac/amp combo. 

This seems to be a good fit, but I have a few questions. (Real sorry if these have been discussed in detail, it's all rather overwhelming.)
1. Are the tubes in this box related to the dac in any way, or just the amp? 
2. Is there a difference between e88cc and 6922?
3. Those seem to be the best regarded tubes, so is there a way to purchase this product with those tubes already standard, or do I just buy it then hunt around for tubes? 
4. There's an eBay listing from china for this amp with 6922 tubes. Is that a good idea, or are the tubes just knockoffs?
5. Additionally, are those tubes from the eBay listing the same as this? http://tubedepot.com/gl-e88cc.html

Thanks very much, sorry if these are silly questions.


----------



## MrEleventy

1. the tube buffer is only tied to the dac. using the amp by itself bypasses the tube. you have to use the dac via usb.
2. http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
3. Hunting around is usually the best way to score something for a good price.
4. It's legit, the 6922 is a current production tube made by electro harmix. it's a decent tube to have.
5. no. listing is by eh. those are by genalex


----------



## Paspie

Well guys, it appears I have a rather serious problem on my hands. This is on the fourth day of operation. My unit has started to sound extremely distorted, the audio is barely discernible. There's no clues as to why on the case, the tube appears to light up as it should, but I've tried unplugging it and vice versa, but to no avail. I haven't opened it up and have no desire to, because it may void a warranty, so I'll have to send it back and hopefully get a replacement. Bit of a pain in the bottom, because it was from Hong Kong, but it has to be done. I'll have to revert to my laptop's onboard audio for now.


----------



## MrEleventy

Have you tried a different tube? It sounds like the tube is going.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





paspie said:


> Well guys, it appears I have a rather serious problem on my hands. This is on the fourth day of operation. My unit has started to sound extremely distorted, the audio is barely discernible. There's no clues as to why on the case, the tube appears to light up as it should, but I've tried unplugging it and vice versa, but to no avail. I haven't opened it up and have no desire to, because it may void a warranty, so I'll have to send it back and hopefully get a replacement. Bit of a pain in the bottom, because it was from Hong Kong, but it has to be done. I'll have to revert to my laptop's onboard audio for now.


 
  Sounds like tube gone bad. Try another tube and you get the answer. If problem stays, ask for replacement unit.


----------



## Magirush

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> 1. the tube buffer is only tied to the dac. using the amp by itself bypasses the tube. you have to use the dac via usb.
> 2. http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
> 3. Hunting around is usually the best way to score something for a good price.
> 4. It's legit, the 6922 is a current production tube made by electro harmix. it's a decent tube to have.
> 5. no. listing is by eh. those are by genalex


 

 Thanks man. 
  So you're saying this is not a tube headphone amp?  Just a normal one with a tube dac?  That seems odd, but whatever. 
   
  Also, the tubes- Which ones, are, theoretically, the best? 
  Reading this thread it appears the e88cc is the best, but apparently there are lots of different types of that.  Confusing.  Also, I'm sure there's a lot of personal preference going on.
  However, I've heard by a few places now that the genalex ones are better for this amp.  Does anyone sell this unit with those tubes already standard?


----------



## Paspie

Quick question, which are better, the rocked logo 6N23Ps, or the Electro Harmonix 6922s? I'm not too sure if either the latter was a derivative/evolution of the former or not. The 6N23P appear to be quite good value round here and I could migrate to those if I can't send the 6922 back.
   
  For now I will have to use the Aune solely as a headphone amp, I have a cheap Behringer interface that I can use in the meantime.


----------



## CoiL

6N23P rocket logo (without CCCP star logo) should be better but depends on taste. 6N23P is more foward sounding tube but 6922EH is with big airy soundstage that is great for electronic atmospheric music.
   
  Magirush, you should google more and read yourself. E88CC tube type marking alone does not mean anything. There are lot of tube types that fit for Aune T1 and in the "high end" segment it all comes down to little differences and personal preferences. You just can`t say that E88CC is the best.
  This thread has A LOT of information about great tubes with Aune T1, just start reading.


----------



## MrEleventy

What coil said. Those are just types of tubes. There's good tubes in each type. you just need to do research to find what matches the headphones you're using.


----------



## doco

so it seems like the MULLARD ECC88 / 6DJ8 A-frame tubes get lots of love for this tube usb dac. is that correct? i'm thinking of getting them. right now there's a pair for $73 and wanted to ask if it was a good price for a pair of them. getting my aune t1 from massdrop so i have plenty of time to decide from upgrading the 6922 tube it'll come with.


----------



## CoiL

I would say that Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 A-frame orange globe is most recommended tube for Aune T1 due to smoothed highs.
  Mullard ECC88 is good tube but imho Amperex orange is definitely better. Great cheaper substitute to Mullard ECC88 is Philips PCC189 (Heerlen) that I have talked lot about in this thread. Some Aune T1 owners bought them and found them good. I have both, Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen not blackburn) and Philips PCC189 (Heerlen) and I find Philips PCC189 even littlebit better. But both will be great upgrades from 6922EH. If you listen electronic music, I recommend you to stay with 6922EH.


----------



## deviot

I got mine and sounds great for acoustics, indy rock songs but.... Anyone got advice on how to EQ this device on osx? 
   
  I normally used sound flower and au labs but doing the same setup with the aune doesn't work. I managed to get something to work by making a aggregate device in apple midi settings with sound flower but for some reason after about 10 mins of play weird noises happen and then sound output stops. 
   
  Any advice?
   
  Willing to give a couple more things a go but might have to swap this over for something else with hardware bass boost (E17?). I need to pump the bass up on certain genres of music (dubstep, electronic).


----------



## dragondagger

I didn't receive my Aune T1 yet but I was wondering if I could have some questions answered:
   
  1. The Line/USB switch on the top, will flipping it to Line turn off the power to the tube, since it is only using the amp? I assume it doesn't
  2. Does turning the knob on the top of the Aune T1 to the lowest allow you to click and turn off or do I physically have to always flip the switch on the back to turn it off?
   
  Just trying to figure out a solution before I receive them.
   
  I currently use a Creative X-Fi Card and FiiO E7/E9 combo.
   
  Current setup:
   
  USB-In on FiiO E9 is not plugged into my computer
  Creative X-Fi 3.5mm cable -> Line In on FiiO E9 -> Pre-Out on FiiO -> Speakers
   
  And when I use headphones I just plug them into the FiiO E9 1/4in output jack in the front and make adjustments to the volume via the knob on the front of the FiiO E9.
   
  Prospective setup:
   
  I would like to run the computer speakers 24/7, so if it is not possible to only run the amp part of the Aune T1 with the tube off this is what I'm thinking:
   
  Creative X-Fi -> Computer Speakers
  USB DAC plugged in on Aune T1 -> Headphones
   
  And switch on and off the Aune T1 when using headphones or not.
   
  If any of the my setup is incorrect please point it out to me, this is a learning experience for me. Thanks


----------



## MrEleventy

dragondagger said:


> I didn't receive my Aune T1 yet but I was wondering if I could have some questions answered:
> 
> 1. The Line/USB switch on the top, will flipping it to Line turn off the power to the tube, since it is only using the amp? I assume it doesn't
> 2. Does turning the knob on the top of the Aune T1 to the lowest allow you to click and turn off or do I physically have to always flip the switch on the back to turn it off?
> ...




The only way to turn off the tube is to power off the unit. That setup is fine and will work, the only hassle that I see is switching from speakers to headphones and back isn't just as simple as powering the unit on, Assuming Windows is the OS. You'll also need to set it to be the default device every time. It's not hard to do but it is a hassle and PITA to do because you'll need to drill into it. 

One question tho, why not just run the tube on 24/7 as well? If you have active speakers, you can run it via the line out of the T1. The tube is only used as a driver and not as a power tube, drivers last a good while since they won't be handling large loads of power. Find a tube that you like and just stock up 3 or 4 as back up and you'll probably tire of the amp before you run out of tubes. Just my .02 cents.


----------



## CoiL

Quote:  





> I need to pump the bass up on certain genres of music (dubstep, electronic).


 
  Get another tube! Tungsram PCC88 would be my recommendation. Same soundstage, air & brightness as 6922EH but noticeably better bass with better kick & tightness. And it`s not too tight bass that would "eat up" the good bass smoothness & flow that is needed in dubstep/electronic.


----------



## doco

Quote: 





coil said:


> I would say that Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 A-frame orange globe is most recommended tube for Aune T1 due to smoothed highs.
> Mullard ECC88 is good tube but imho Amperex orange is definitely better. Great cheaper substitute to Mullard ECC88 is Philips PCC189 (Heerlen) that I have talked lot about in this thread. Some Aune T1 owners bought them and found them good. I have both, Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen not blackburn) and Philips PCC189 (Heerlen) and I find Philips PCC189 even littlebit better. But both will be great upgrades from 6922EH. If you listen electronic music, I recommend you to stay with 6922EH.


 
  thanks. what would you say is a good price on ebay to get the amperex orange or philips pcc189 for? the philips pcc189 seems to have sellers from italy... and they don't have the top rated plus icon (paranoid about buying from ebay without that). right now i see 4 pairs of the 1970 amperex orange for $105.50. that seem to be a good price?


----------



## CoiL

nvm!


----------



## CoiL

Great deal! Inside EU, for example to Estonia, shipping included - only 119€ ! O_o
 I paid ~162€ for it from UK ebay if I remember correctly.


----------



## cerealkillr

Quote: 





clarkkent said:


> Yeah I'm looking at that right now.  That's what brought me to this thread lol


 
  Same here! I was thinking about getting the Magni and Modi, but this seems to be regarded even better, and for $120, I'm almost forcing myself to need it.


----------



## MrEleventy

I bought mine second hand for more than that. lol I might buy another for home...


----------



## MrEleventy

search for posts by Salvatore, coil and Joe. toscheck too. they've done the most reviews.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





deicide3 said:


> any idea where can i look for tube reviews?, read all of the 130 pages gonna take some time.


 
   
  This is probably the best place for beginners: http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8
   
  Happy hunting!


----------



## cosmonought

was looking at the schiit magni/modi but this is too good to pass up. hopefully it doesn't take too long to ship out though.


----------



## doco

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> This is probably the best place for beginners: http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8
> 
> Happy hunting!


 
       thanks for linking that. it's a good educational read and a short glimpse of history about the tubes.


----------



## stara

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> This is probably the best place for beginners: http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8
> 
> Happy hunting!


 
   
http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
  for 2nd opinion.


----------



## Currawong

Guys, I'm sorry, but as group buys and group-buy sites aren't permitted here, I've had to delete some recent posts. If you have any questions about this, feel free to PM me.


----------



## trustt

Will the T1 play well with audio technica AD2000X?


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





trustt said:


> Will the T1 play well with audio technica AD2000X?


 
  Nobody else in this thread has mentioned that headphone specifically, but I don't see why not. "Synergy" is attained through finding the right tube--a trial and error process.


----------



## Magirush

Alright, I took the advice of some of the posters and did some more googling/research on the t1. It's a bit misleading of them to call it a tube amp, but I guess that's ok because the tube preamp makes it sound like one. Plus being able to use this as a dac then forward it out to my speaker amp is pretty sweet. 

Few more questions
1. There's no difference between versions of the t1 for sale except for different tubes, correct? 
2. If I want to try different tubes anyway, I'm better off going with the cheapest aune t1 I can find, yes? 
3. Can someone tell me what the genalex gold lion 6922 sounds like? I've heard some rave reviews about that coupled with the aune, yet I've not found any detailed description of the sound.

I have read through quite a lot of this thread, but I can't remember which people thought what about which tube. So if someone could recommend a few tubes based on my sonic preference, that'd be great. 

I generally like a very wet, aquatic feel. I like deep bass, but not boomy or punchy bass. I like an enveloping, large, and warm soundscape with the occasional high instrument/female vocal piercing through.


----------



## teb1013

magirush said:


> Alright, I took the advice of some of the posters and did some more googling/research on the t1. It's a bit misleading of them to call it a tube amp, but I guess that's ok because the tube preamp makes it sound like one. Plus being able to use this as a dac then forward it out to my speaker amp is pretty sweet.
> 
> Few more questions
> 1. There's no difference between versions of the t1 for sale except for different tubes, correct?
> ...




1. Yes.
2. This is the general wisdom. When I ordered mine from Pennybuying for $150 USD postage free, I expected to get a Chinese tube but a Russian 6922 EH was in the box. I have found this to be a very good basic tube. I also have purchased a Voskhod 6n23p at the recommendation of joeq70. Take a look at his thread starter which is a good intro to this unit. 
3. I'm not an experienced tube roller. CoiL seems to be one of the most experienced on this thread. Perhaps he knows.


----------



## Magirush

I did even more reading in the thread, and found this:
*MULLARD, GENALEX, BRIMAR, and other British made NOS:* Like a warm British jacket of the finest tweed, these glorious tubes have an attractive sweet warmth in their midrange and lower regions. The top end is silky and pleasant, without being rolled-off. The best of these tubes retain a fine sense of "air" at the top, and the upper midrange is smooth and liquid. These tubes reproduce the human voice, especially female voices, with haunting realism. The 1970s Mullard made have an attractive sparkle at the top with the rich bass, and these tubes are usually priced less than the older types.
   
  I don't know very much about any of those brand names, but that is almost exactly what I'm looking for in sound.
   
  Can anyone give me a recommendation for something that sounds like that?  It doesn't have to be one of those brands, but I imagine that is the first place I'd start looking.  Unfortunately I don't have the money to buy this unit and then spend hundreds of dollars finding a tube that sounds roughly similar to the description above, so any input regarding such a tube would be appreciated.


----------



## CoiL

This description is too general. For example I have 2 different ECC88 Brimars and they suck, basically 2 worst tubes I have, narrow soundstage, bright sounding, recessed mids and suckass bass.
  And which Mullard is it meant? Blackburn or Heerlen? They are different. I have Heerlen plant Mullard ECC88 (newer shield logo, GAG coded) and it`s good but I find highs to be littlebit too bright and "dry", it kind of pushes mids section back. @ Amperex oranges vocals feel much more natural for me and the highs are more open and dynamic.
  I have no idea about genalex but they should be with good large airy soundstage. Someone in here had it. As I remember it was good but nothing special. I think it comes down to personal preference also. Search from this thread. 
   
  But reading this overall description I would recommend Amperex 6DJ8/ECC88 orange globes. For me GAC coded is best of them, then comes GA8 and then GAE.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





magirush said:


> I did even more reading in the thread, and found this:
> *MULLARD, GENALEX, BRIMAR, and other British made NOS:* Like a warm British jacket of the finest tweed, these glorious tubes have an attractive sweet warmth in their midrange and lower regions. The top end is silky and pleasant, without being rolled-off. The best of these tubes retain a fine sense of "air" at the top, and the upper midrange is smooth and liquid. These tubes reproduce the human voice, especially female voices, with haunting realism. The 1970s Mullard made have an attractive sparkle at the top with the rich bass, and these tubes are usually priced less than the older types.
> 
> I don't know very much about any of those brand names, but that is almost exactly what I'm looking for in sound.
> ...


 
   
  Genalex Gold Lion is a new production russian tube. With that tube you practically know what you get (no need to worry about getting heavily used NOS with best hours already behind) and by reading your posts the gold lion could actually be pretty good tube for you. The main problem is that it is heavily overpriced in my opinion. With Mullards and Brimars you need to do your research which tube type to get. Lots of different tube types, productions etc. under these brands.


----------



## grizzlybeast

I feel somewhat misled with the aune t1
   
  I was hoping for  it to drive headphones well but people are saying that it is mainly used as a tube DAC.
   
  I have it driving some simple german maestro 8.35 d headphones at home and it does seem to amplifie those well though they do not need an amp at all. Plus they don't enable me to hear a difference in the sound. But I was wondering for the hd 650 or fidelio x1 if the aune t1 and the O2 amp would be a good combo?
   
  I cant seem to find the thread where someone shared with me how I need to use the aune t1.
  Do I go:
_*computer--->aune t1--->O2 amp---> headphones?*_
   
or 
   
_*computer--->O2 amp--->aune t1---> headphones?*_
   
the o2 amp is never really lauded for its sound so I'd prefer wich ever way would give me the sound of the T1 tubes better. May seem like a dumb question but I dont know.


----------



## MrEleventy

grizzlybeast said:


> computer--->aune t1--->O2 amp---> headphones




I've used it this way before I upgraded to a darkvoice 336se amp and it works really well.

E: btw, using the Line In of the T1 will bypass the tube and you'll only be using the T1's SS amp. The only way to use the tube is via USB in. It's a usb tube dac + ss amp.


----------



## CoiL

You can`t use tube buffer when using Aune T1 RCA line input. Tube buffer is used ONLY when using USB input of Aune T1. That`s all you need to know.


----------



## grizzlybeast

Quote: 





coil said:


> You can`t use tube buffer when using Aune T1 RCA line input. Tube buffer is used ONLY when using USB input of Aune T1. That`s all you need to know.


 
_*computer--->aune t1--->O2 amp---> headphones?*_
   
so basically above is the way to get the sound of the tubes and dac and the o2 amp will still be able to transfer that sound?
   
thanks.


----------



## MrEleventy

Yeah. Just hook up a RCA -> 3.5mm interconnect into the Aune T1 you can output it to the O2.

My previous stack.


New stack.


----------



## CoiL

Yes, but O2 will affect that sound. Why do you need O2 anyway if tube sound is what you are after for? Aune T1 has powerful output for headphones with 3 different gain options. I`m suspecting that you were mislead by that sentence: "people are saying that it is mainly used as a tube DAC." ...first TRY it and then if you feel any shotcomings of amplification, then go for amp in the chain.


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> Yes, but O2 will affect that sound. Why do you need O2 anyway if tube sound is what you are after for? Aune T1 has powerful output for headphones with 3 different gain options. I`m suspecting that you were mislead by that sentence: "people are saying that it is mainly used as a tube DAC." ...first TRY it and then if you feel any shotcomings of amplification, then go for amp in the chain.




Technically, running from the hp out in the T1 will effect that sound as well since the amp isn't part of the dac itself but a bolt on module with it's own opamp. The more "pure" output would be the lineouts themselves.

In the case of the O2, it's supposedly transparent and neutral so all it really should do is just amplify the signal it's getting. Take with a grain of salt, my ears, and all that other disclaimer stuff. All I know is that when I ABd against the hp out vs O2 via line out, I like the O2 more, but that's to my ears of course.


----------



## CoiL

Good to hear opinion @ O2 + Aune T1. Can you describe how or what sounds better with O2? Just curious.


----------



## MrEleventy

That's a little tough to do. It doesn't really add anything from my experience. it just enhances or powers the hps to the best of their abilities. some benefit from it, others don't. like my beyers and clones do and the senns. m80s don't. ety hf5 a little. it varies.


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> Yes, but O2 will affect that sound. Why do you need O2 anyway if tube sound is what you are after for? Aune T1 has powerful output for headphones with 3 different gain options. I`m suspecting that you were mislead by that sentence: "people are saying that it is mainly used as a tube DAC." ...first TRY it and then if you feel any shotcomings of amplification, then go for amp in the chain.




Couldn't agree more. I run my Senn 558s (easy to drive) at 0 gain and they sound marvelous. There are two more levels for harder to drive cans. For the price I still think this can't be beaten.


----------



## grizzlybeast

Quote: 





coil said:


> Yes, but O2 will affect that sound. Why do you need O2 anyway if tube sound is what you are after for? Aune T1 has powerful output for headphones with 3 different gain options. I`m suspecting that you were mislead by that sentence: "people are saying that it is mainly used as a tube DAC." ...first TRY it and then if you feel any shotcomings of amplification, then go for amp in the chain.


 
  Maybe i got a little overzealous then because I think the gain settings are on the bottom. I didn't notice that I just plugged it in and let it warm up with the simple 6922eh russian tube and started listening. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  I know its embarrassing but its okay lol.


----------



## Magirush

Thanks for the recommendation, coil. I will search for more info on those amperex tubes.

Salvatore, I do indeed think that the genalex gold lion sounds like the tube for me. Descriptions of the warmth and sound stage seem spot on for what I like. My only question for you now( or anyone who owns the genalex) is how well does it reproduce female vocals? I like a warm, laid back sound in all the frequencies except for the female vocal, because there's nothing better than that contrast. 

Maybe I'm just beig picky though, I'm sure this little thing will sound way better than what I'm using now.


----------



## goldenSHK

Hi guys, before I jumped in on the massdrop sale I had some questions after researching the Aune T1 amp/dac that I was wondering if people wouldn't mind answering:

 [size=small]This would be my first tube amp/dac experience. What headphones can I power properly with these and what can I NOT power? Someone convince me why I should get these as a long run investment. I'm thinking of getting them for my Ultrasone Pro 900s (good idea?). Someone convince me why I should get these even though I have access to a FiiO E17. I don't think LCD2s or any real orthodynamics would be properly powered by these so basically it's a really small scale investment like FiiO amps, right? I mean, if I ever get a real set of cans ($600+) I'm going to have to spend again on a major set up, right? I guess what I am asking that my research isn't clearing up too well is that why should I get this if a FiiO E17 seems like it can get the job done for sub Hifi headphones while this seems like it can get the job done slightly better for sub hifi sets, but neither can power true hifi cans. Thanks in advance anyone. Really considering this.[/size]


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





goldenshk said:


> Hi guys, before I jumped in on the massdrop sale I had some questions after researching the Aune T1 amp/dac that I was wondering if people wouldn't mind answering:
> 
> [size=small]This would be my first tube amp/dac experience. What headphones can I power properly with these and what can I NOT power? Someone convince me why I should get these as a long run investment. I'm thinking of getting them for my Ultrasone Pro 900s (good idea?). Someone convince me why I should get these even though I have access to a FiiO E17. I don't think LCD2s or any real orthodynamics would be properly powered by these so basically it's a really small scale investment like FiiO amps, right? I mean, if I ever get a real set of cans ($600+) I'm going to have to spend again on a major set up, right? I guess what I am asking that my research isn't clearing up too well is that why should I get this if a FiiO E17 seems like it can get the job done for sub Hifi headphones while this seems like it can get the job done slightly better for sub hifi sets, but neither can power true hifi cans. Thanks in advance anyone. Really considering this.[/size]


 
   
  T1+ Ultrasone is a real good idea... T1 will tames a bit pro900 trebles and bring a bit forwardness in the mids  .. i had an E17 before my T1 .
   
  I think T1 can power all cans except very unefficient and/or high impedance cans ( a few orthos , old "classic" agk) . Read me carefully though . I didn't write "T1 can power at their best" . for example I'm quite sure that my K501 is not as is best on T1 ( i miss something when I listen music with K501+T1 combo) and I think that my Ultrasone can benefit from a better amp too ( an amp which brings more control maybe...) .
   
  That's said . T1 offer a very very good all-in-one combo and expecting slight ( but sometimes essential for audiophiles ) improvements needs far more expensive dac or amps IMO


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





magirush said:


> Salvatore, I do indeed think that the genalex gold lion sounds like the tube for me. Descriptions of the warmth and sound stage seem spot on for what I like. My only question for you now( or anyone who owns the genalex) is how well does it reproduce female vocals? I like a warm, laid back sound in all the frequencies except for the female vocal, because there's nothing better than that contrast.


 
   
  I hear you my friend. It is indeed possible that the warm laid back sound could muffle the vocals. Do you have any particular artists or songs in mind. I'm warming up the gold lion at the moment and listening some female vocals. We also have to keep in mind the headphones used of course. I have AKG K702 annies which I consider are pretty amazing for female vocals.
   
  My first impression, changing from Amperex orange globe to gold lion, is that the gold lion has wet smooth slightly bloated bass (similar to rocket logo). The sound stage is not as good as with OG. Also the vocals are more forward and pronounced with OG (this is probably because the bass is more neutral with OG). With my headphones OG wins easily, but this doesn't mean that the lion wouldn't work for you. It fits your description that's for sure, but it's also a kind of double edged sword. You get that wet warm bassy sound but that also rolls into mids and you could lose some details and clarity with them vocals. With acoustic material this "problem" is not as dominant. I think you might need more than one tube to be completely happy  For me the gold lion is only a upgraded (layered, more detailed) rocket logo. Good tube but expensive. With $50 you can get lots of cool NOS tubes to play with.
   
  If you really want the gold lion and live in EU I can sell you mine for a good price 
   
  E: I think you should look for 60's Amperex orange globes (6DJ8). That is money well spent right there. And if you want something extremely sharp and transparent then go with military 7308 Amperexes (or telefunkens).
   
  E2: One another option could be Amperex bugle boys. I think they could fit you description nicely.


----------



## Salvatore

*From my collection:*
   
*Best tubes:* Amperex 7308 PQ white label, Telefunken 7DJ8, Amperex OG 6DJ8 (actually 70's production orange print A-frame)
   
*Budget kings: *Ultron 7ES8, Amperex OG 6DJ8, Voshkod Rocket
   
*Transparent:* Amperex 7308 PQ white label, Telefunken 7DJ8
   
*Neutral:* Amperex 7308 PQ white label (warmish but I prefer to categorize this to neutral), Telefunken 7DJ8
   
_*Warm:*_ Amperex OG 6DJ8, Voshkod Rocket, Genalex Gold Lion, Ultron 7ES8, Bugle Boy
   
_*Big sound stage:*_ Amperex 7308 PQ white label, Telefunken 7DJ8, Amperex OG 6DJ8, EH6922
   
_*Forward:*_ Siemens 7DJ8, Voskhod Rocket, Genalex Gold Lion
   
   
  It goes without saying that my best tubes are good for pretty much everything (especially Amperex 7308), but here are some special notes:
   
_*Rock:*_ Ultron 7ES8, Amperex OG 6DJ8
   
_*Electronic:*_ EH6922 (atmospheric / ambient), Ultron 7ES8 (EDM), Valvo 7DJ8 (EDM)
   
_*Acoustic:*_ Siemens 7DJ8
   
_*Jazz:*_ Amperex 7308 PQ white label
   
_*Blues:*_ Voshkod Rocket, Siemens 7DJ8
   
_*Vocals:*_ Siemens 7DJ8, Amperex OG 6DJ8
   
   
  Practically I have Amperex OG plugged in 99% of the time because it's such a great overall tube (and I have 3 of these). Sometimes I switch to Ultron / Telefunken / Amperex 7308 (I'm kind of saving this little gem. Better to burn Teles since I have 3 of them).


----------



## Magirush

Thanks for offering to sell your gold lion, but I don't live in the EU. 
As for music I like... well, I mostly listen to world/lounge and various types of electronic music. It's hard to consider electronic music a genre by itself, though, because there are so many sub genres which are all doing completely different things, and it doesn't necessarily even have to sound very synthesised/digital. 

For soundstage example, look up diving dancer by klartraum. 
They have a great understanding of soundstage- in fact, they'll even occasionally record mixes of themselves just playing samples on different audio tracks and then upload it as a Dolby digital file. 

Time for a change- Guy Gerber

I'm not sure how to describe this... very soul/jazzish and then ethereal at the same time. 

For female vocals, look up omid(hope) by thievery corporation. 
Sorry I can't give you any links, I'm writing this on my phone. 

Anyway about my setup right now... I don't really have anything good. I have high standards about certain elements of audio mainly because I've got friends with some really great setups. And yet I don't have a big enough budget to get one for myself , bit of a curse really. 
I'm using senn hd 555s right now(I know, too low end to really need an amp. But they've got cool reflector things!), but I am equally interested in using the line out on the aune to send a high quality signal to my stereo, and different friends' high fi setups. 

So I can't really match the tubes to a certain headphone, and that's why I'm just hoping to find one that fits my taste in general. What I'm probably going to do is order the aune with the 6922eh, see how it sounds, then decide between a gold lion or the two amperexes you recommended. I think they were the 6dj8 orange globe and the bugle boy. 

Thanks a ton for all your help, and if you have any other recommendations let me know.


----------



## CoiL

Spoiler: *****



Quote:


salvatore said:


> *From my collection:*
> 
> *Best tubes:* Amperex 7308 PQ white label > Telefunken 7DJ8 > Amperex OG 6DJ8 > Siemens 7DJ8
> 
> ...


   


   

  Great simple post and recommendation basis and I agree @ all the tubes I own myself. 
   
  E: Btw, I received my old logo Valvo PCC88 today. Going to let it burn but first impressions say nothing special. Bass seems to be "boomy" and exaggerated. Nothing more I can say atm. Got this tube very cheap. We`ll see what it becomes after burning.


----------



## pfreshwes

This was probably mentioned already, but can connecting the USB from the laptop be used to power the T1 or will the power supply be needed? Thanks


----------



## MrEleventy

pfreshwes said:


> This was probably mentioned already, but can connecting the USB from the laptop be used to power the T1 or will the power supply be needed? Thanks




No, T1's power source is the power supply. It doesn't even use the power line in the USB


----------



## flyingmonkee

Deleted this because of the group buy policy


----------



## teb1013

mreleventy said:


> No, T1's power source is the power supply. It doesn't even use the power line in the USB




Correct but, weirdly, if you use the T1 with an iPad (through a Camera Connector and UsB) the iPad gives a "low power" warning requiring you to connect through a powered USB hub. I have no idea why the iPad interprets it as if the T1 is trying to draw "too much" power through the USB when it is a plug in unit. This doesn't happen with a Mac or pc, just the iPad.


----------



## AxelCloris

Quote:  
   
  Just a heads up, the moderators are quite strict on the "No Group Buys" policy.


----------



## audiofrog

Why is that?


----------



## AxelCloris

"Group Buys can not be promoted on Head-Fi's Main Forums, or via Head-Fi's Private Messaging, without first receiving authorization from Jude via Head-Fi Private Messaging or e-mail. Please note, though, that it is not our desire to see Group Buys used by Members of the Trade as a primary method of distribution and advertising on Head-Fi's forums--so, for this and other reasons, they are usually not approved. Exceptions may be made on a case-by-case basis, and most often for DIY-related parts that might otherwise be unreasonably difficult to obtain."


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> Correct but, weirdly, if you use the T1 with an iPad (through a Camera Connector and UsB) the iPad gives a "low power" warning requiring you to connect through a powered USB hub. I have no idea why the iPad interprets it as if the T1 is trying to draw "too much" power through the USB when it is a plug in unit. This doesn't happen with a Mac or pc, just the iPad.


 
  Have you tried the +5VSB pin cutoff mod (at the end of cable from PC side)? Try it, might help but not sure. I think it`s somekind of iOS related thing, maybe because Aune T1 doesn`t draw any power from USB and iOS detects it as external USB audio device, it thinks as standard it certainly needs to be powered by USB?
   
  Anyway, recommended cable-mod for everybody. Helps to avoid signal disturbances from USB. And proper foil shielded cable is recommended. Although, I can`t make much difference with stock cable but I prefer it to be shielded from PC PSU etc. 
   
  E: Update about Valvo PCC88 (coded DJt D0I). Not totally bad but nothing good also, lacks in transparency & separation, soundstage is weird. 6N23P (reflector logo) and Tesla PCC88 (yellow 32 marking) are certainly better choices. Don`t recommend it for Aune T1, even if it`s cheap.


----------



## inphu510n

Forgive me if this has been beaten to death but searching hasn't resulted in the answer I'm looking for.
   
  Has anyone tried anything other than 6DJ8 tubes/equivalents in this amp?
  For instance the 12AT7 tube should work because its center tapped heater will run at 12v 150mah OR 6v 300mah.
  Given that the 6DJ8 is a 6.3v 350mah heater and the pinout is exactly the same this sounds like a possible tube to try.
  There are probably other tubes which may not be 100% pin compatible which can be tried here as well.
  We're paying extreme prices for dwindling tube stocks which may not even be the best sounding possibilities. Anyone?


----------



## batmanwcm

I currently have a Silverstone EB01 USB DAC paired with a Fiio E9 Amp.  Will the Aune be an upgrade and is it good enough for the AKG Q701's?  I'm looking to get in on that group buy but I'm not sure if it's an upgrade.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> Forgive me if this has been beaten to death but searching hasn't resulted in the answer I'm looking for.
> 
> Has anyone tried anything other than 6DJ8 tubes/equivalents in this amp?
> For instance the 12AT7 tube should work because its center tapped heater will run at 12v 150mah OR 6v 300mah.
> ...


 


coil said:


> *6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, **6N27P,** 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
> *E188CC, **ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, CV5358, M3624*


 

  edit: oh sry, I think I misread your point - other types than those I pointed out? I´ve though about it and even using modded socket saver to change pinout between Aune T1 and tube but I think it`s too much hassle because there are already lot of great choices.


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





coil said:


> edit: oh sry, I think I misread your point - other types than those I pointed out? I´ve though about it and even using modded socket saver to change pinout between Aune T1 and tube but I think it`s too much hassle because there are already lot of great choices.


 
  Awesome thank you. That's pretty much what I was looking for. I will definitely check out some of those other tube types. Very much appreciated!
   
  However I would contend that it is worth the hassle to figure out. Check out this post in the LD tube rolling thread. The columns detail some of the mods necessary for the various tube types.
  The tube that I've found to be most excellent in my system requires a jumper between pins 2 & 7. That tube easily beats down the lauded Voskhod 6J1P-EV Gold Grids which are extremely wonderful tubes in their own right.
  I believe there is more to explore with the T1 than has been attempted so far.


----------



## CoiL

Just won auction on two Sovtek 6922 tubes for 1,5£ + posting. 1st tube is coded 00 04 and has gold pins second is coded 98 and is with metal pins. 
   
  edit: There is one Philips PCC189 (Heerlen Holland) on sale with good price: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-Philips-PCC189-7ES8-tube-NIB-Heerlen-Holland-/380650351502?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item58a0876b8e
  Who remembers, I`ve already recommended this tube before instead of Mullard ECC88 (New shield logo, Heerlen Holland) as cheaper alternative & because they sound very very similiar. Good luck for bidder(s). I`m not bidding, I already have it.


----------



## jipan

I just bought a used Aune T1 from a guy locally. It got Russian Harmonix 6922EH (or what the label on the tube said). I can't wait the delivery, for this is my first tube.
   
  Mr Salvatore, your post is great help, but I would like to ask, which one is tube with good positioning? So not only good sound-stage but also good positioning. From your list, it's look like I had to try Amperex OG 6DJ8 and Amperex 7308 PQ white label, I kind of liking warm sound with good positioning.
   


Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!



Originally Posted by *Salvatore* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
  
*From my collection:*
   
*Best tubes:* Amperex 7308 PQ white label > Telefunken 7DJ8 > Amperex OG 6DJ8 > Siemens 7DJ8
   
*Budget kings: *Ultron 7ES8 > Amperex OG 6DJ8 > Voshkod Rocket
   
*Transparent:* Amperex 7308 PQ white label, Telefunken 7DJ8
   
*Neutral:* Amperex 7308 PQ white label, Telefunken 7DJ8
   
_*Warm:*_ Amperex OG 6DJ8, Voshkod Rocket, Genalex Gold Lion, Ultron 7ES8, Bugle Boy (amperex 7308 is warmish but I prefer to categorize it to neutral)
   
_*Big sound stage:*_ Amperex 7308 PQ white label, Telefunken 7DJ8, Amperex OG 6DJ8, EH6922
   
_*Forward:*_ Siemens 7DJ8, Voskhod Rocket
   
   
  It goes without saying that my best tubes are good for pretty much everything (especially Amperex 7308), but here are some special notes:
   
_*Rock:*_ Ultron 7ES8, Amperex OG 6DJ8
   
_*Electronic:*_ EH6922
   
_*Acoustic:*_ Siemens 7DJ8
   
_*Jazz:*_ Amperex 7308 PQ white label
   
_*Blues:*_ Voshkod Rocket, Siemens 7DJ8
   
_*Vocals:*_ Siemens 7DJ8, Amperex OG 6DJ8
   
  Practically I have Amperex OG plugged in 99% of the time because it's such a great overall tube (and I have 3 of these). Sometimes I switch to Ultron or Telefunken or Amperex 7308 (I'm kind of saving this little gem. Better to burn Teles since I have 3 of them).
   


  Anyone can PM-me trusty worthy seller / store? This is my 1st time one tube, so I don't know how to distinguish the fakes. Better going for trusted seller / store.


----------



## Magirush

I'd also like to know a good place to get tubes. I can't find the orange globes or the bugle boys that were mentioned for less than $70.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





jipan said:


> Mr Salvatore, your post is great help, but I would like to ask, which one is tube with good positioning? So not only good sound-stage but also good positioning. From your list, it's look like I had to try Amperex OG 6DJ8 and Amperex 7308 PQ white label, I kind of liking warm sound with good positioning.


 
   
  One of the main reasons I'm not a huge fan of EH6922 is the positioning. I found it to have a kind of bumerang shaped image (sound stage extends very wide but not as deep). I'm more into spherical imaging myself. Also with my Valvo tube the positioning or imaging was kind of off (but I really should burn in this tube). Amperexes have very nice imaging and so has Voshkod rocket and Siemens. Both Siemens and rocket are forward sounding and they are great in that live band feel (the band is in front of you and not separated too much on the sides as can happen with EH6922). Rocket is great for gritty basement blues and Siemens is awesome with vocals and man+guitar kind of setups (Chris Cornell acoustic stuff and Chet Atkins for example). EH6922 is good tube for electronic music with artificially extended sound stage. I wouldn't want to use it too much with "organic" material. Telefunken is my most natural transparent sounding tube which is very nice to have in your collections. Amperex 7308 is more on the natural side but has definitely warm touch in it and the bass is suberb (easily best bass from all my tubes). Best tube for mastering and jazz because it's so razor sharp. You hear absolutely all strokes and brushes of every instrument. The imaging is also top notch. It doesn't matter what you listen and I'm pretty sure it produces the sound as they were intended by the mixer/master. Amperex OG is a very good tube. It has big sound stage with proper transparent imaging (you can easily locate all instruments and they are positioned correctly. Nothing seems "off"). There are some concerns with the OG still. The bass could be tighter in my opinion and the upper mids/treble can get fatiguing with certain music (and headphones). I have AKG K702 which are known to have treble spike and pronounced upper mids and this can sometimes make the K702-OG combo a bit too piercing in aggressive rock music. Therefore my tube of choice for rock is Ultron (seems to smooth some of the areas where OG feels piercing. Good synergy with AKG cans). On the other hand, the pronounced upper mids make OG a wonderful tube for female vocals (especially songs with minimalistic background music). It's also very nice tube to watch dialogue heavy TV series and/or movies. Like I said in my earlier post OG is very versatile tube and at the moment gets most time in my T1.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





magirush said:


> I'd also like to know a good place to get tubes. I can't find the orange globes or the bugle boys that were mentioned for less than $70.


 
   
  Search ebay using "amperex 6dj8". You can also find great deals by searching "7dj8". Also check German ebay using "röhre" + tube type. I'd say about $20 is the appropriate price for orange globe. Just be sure to avoid those british made orange globes (they have red text and made in britain text). If the production codes are visible you should be looking for Heerlen, Holland tubes (small triangle). There are also orange globes with different getters out there. I have A-frames, which are 70's production. Coils impressions are that the older single leg supported orange globes are better and I trust his opinion. So if you can, go for the older ones.
   
  In this example you can easily see all the needed information: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TESTS-STRONG-AMPEREX-HOLLAND-ECC88-6DJ8-6922-E88CC-PRE-AMP-AUDIO-TUBE-51-/121119246138?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item1c3345073a
   
  From the pictures you see that the text is orange, the logo has world/globe logo and made in Holland text. The getter is A-frame and the production code has the Heerlen factory symbol (triangle). These tubes are known to have their logos rub off very easily, so the ones with logos still intact are more desirable collectibles.


----------



## Deicide3

which tube should i buy if i listen to metal?


----------



## CoiL

Amperex OG or Ultron PCC189.


----------



## Magirush

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281113310107
Is this listing roughly similar to the one you have, salvatore? 
I don't mind posting it here because I don't think I'm going to bid, but I'm just wondering. They seem very cheap compared to all the other orange globe listings.
Edit: Sorry, those are PQs, not orange globes. Got confused because it said Holland.


----------



## teb1013

I have been listening with the 6922eh I received with the T1. I just replaced it with a Voskhod 6n23p and was amazed at how much more forward and louder this tube sounds. It seems a bit sharp, if that makes sense, but I will let it run for a while. Initially I had wondered if I would be able to hear the difference between tubes, but no longer. This tube sounds best with Jazz, so far, does anyone have recommendations for Classical (orchestral).


----------



## CoiL

With these tubes its easy to notice difference but take Mullard ECC88 vs. Philips PCC189 vs. Lorenz PCC189 for example and you will "sweat your ears off" before you get the differences. Also hearing difference between GAC / GA8 / GAE coded Amperex oranges is also quite 
 hard. For classical I would recommend Tesla PCC88 (32 yellow markings) but my recommendation about classical tubes might not be so good because I don`t listen much classical. Amperex OG would be more certain deal for classical. 

 Btw, just won auction for Siemens PCC88. Got it for 3€ only lol. My first siemens tube! Hope it`s good.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





magirush said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/281113310107
> Is this listing roughly similar to the one you have, salvatore?
> I don't mind posting it here because I don't think I'm going to bid, but I'm just wondering. They seem ver"ufogetter and A-frame support seems to be the same as what I have. I'd say these tubes are the real deal.


 
   
  Yeah I also have one PQ orange globe with dimple disc / "ufo" getter and A-frame support. In this particular ebay case you are looking at delta (triangle) 2L3 coded PQ Amperex OG. Delta means that the tube was manufactured in Heerlen Holland, 2 is the last digit of the year (1972), L is the month (A = Jan... L=Dec) and 4 is the week of month. Also these tubes have dimple disc getter with A-frame support. I'd say these are definitely real deal. Logos and factory codes are also nicely readable. PQ stands for premium quality. PQ tubes should last longer than the standard versions (maybe even up to 10.000 hours).


----------



## Magirush

Sorry I didn't see your latest post. Would you go for the OGs that I just posted in the thread or the listing that I PMed you?


----------



## doco

whats the difference between the amperex orange PQ and amperex white PQ? i was looking through the ebay listings and it intrigued me why there would be two different colors of them.


----------



## Deicide3

Quote: 





coil said:


> Amperex OG or Ultron PCC189.


 
   

 do you have impression or reviews for these tubes?


----------



## CoiL

I have one recommendation to you - READ this thread!


----------



## Deicide3

133 pages


----------



## MrEleventy

search function

 heck, go back a page or two and you'll see that someone laid out a pretty good list of which tubes are good and for which genre/ sound signature. We're all for helping but at least do a little work on your own.


----------



## Currawong

I suggest using one of the useful posts on tubes into a wiki, then linking people to that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  If enough people do tube rolling guides for amps I'll create a sub-section for it.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





deicide3 said:


> 133 pages


 
  Why should I spend MY time for YOUR intrest in those tubes? I`ve already given very much info, impressions and reviews on many tubes. YOUR thing is to READ them. Learn to use search or start going backwards in this thread. Duh!


----------



## tommo21

Got my T1 yesterday and sadly it didn't work out using USB out from my Note II. So I'll have to figure out another way to use it at work. I've connected it to my home computer and tried a few tubes already. The 6N11 stock tube wasn't any special, and also EH6922(has been burned in before) had to much sibilance on my K551. The tube I'm trying out now is a Jan Philips 6922 wich so far has been the best for me. Playing Allison Krauss, Dire Straits and Daft Punk so far, and I love this little amp already. Must somehow get it to work on my work computer, but without admin rights I fear it won't install properly.


----------



## tommo21

So here's my setup at the moment. Ready testing it for the office. And tubedampers actually works, only a little bit, but they`re tightening up the bass a bit. Enough to notice it at least. Tube in at the moment JJ E88CC. To early to scompare it, but my favorite still is Jan Philips 6922. Have yet to try a Mullard E88CC, Siemens E88CC and Siemens Halske CCa.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





tommo21 said:


> And tubedampers actually works, only a little bit, but they`re tightening up the bass a bit. Enough to notice it at least.


 
  Sorry but that "tightening up the bass a bit" must be pseudo-thingy! Dube-dampers for tighter bass? Sorry but imho this is nonsense!


----------



## tommo21

Quote: 





coil said:


> Sorry but that "tightening up the bass a bit" must be pseudo-thingy! Dube-dampers for tighter bass? Sorry but imho this is nonsense!


 

 Well that's what I hear. I pull it off and put it on again and there's slight improvement. The only thing that I think of is that it put slight pressure on the tube and stiffen up the glass a little bit dependent on where on the tube you put it, other than that I'm with you that this shouldn`t happen because there's no outer influence affecting the tube.
   
  Of course if I hadn't had these tubedampers lying around I sure wouldn't have bothered buying them for this amp, but I tried them on, and well...there`s a slight difference with them on in my ears.


----------



## Case

I'm thinking expectation bias...


----------



## tommo21

Quote: 





case said:


> I'm thinking expectation bias...


 
  It's probably mind tricks....now even the 6n11 tube sounds good...time for bed me thinks...and resetting my ears for a while


----------



## audiofrog

I just ordered my Aune T1!  The version includes the 6922.  
   
  One thing that I hate about listening to mp3s through my computer (without a dac) is that they sound too digital.  Will the tube make it sound more analog- like listening to a record (without all the scratches?)  If so, any recommendations for listening to oldies like the Temptations, Ray Charles, or Fats Domino?
   
  Lost that analog feeling
  -AudioFrog


----------



## icecap

Actually like speaker spikes/cones, there is every little possibility dampeners will have an effect on the sound.. Physically they cut down on the vibrations and create isolations that ever so slightly..

But that can only be possible if one believe the effect of such interferences. In that case, pseudo is playing its part as well that prevents one from hearing their effects.. Hah..


----------



## Case

icecap said:


> Actually like speaker spikes/cones, there is every little possibility dampeners will have an effect on the sound.. Physically they cut down on the vibrations and create isolations that ever so slightly..



Speakers produce sound through the vibration of the cone so they vibrate. Why is your Aune vibrating? Are you operating it on top of a subwoofer or inside your car?


----------



## iXpertMan

What a wonderful piece of Chinese engineering! As it appears that this Aune T1 DAC/AMP is as good as the Schiit Magni & Modi (Combo), better than the Audioquest Dragonfly and hence, many, many more pieces of sophisticated equipment. Especially for such a modest price, it seems too good to be true. I just have a few questions on it.
   
  1) I have a Mac, and many people see Macs as having quite good audio cards. Would there still be a big difference in the quality, I currently use a Macbook Pro (2010)?
  2) I am thinking of using the analog output of the Aune to act as a DAC for a pair of speakers, perhaps the Audioengine A2s. Is it possible to use it as a DAC only system, without the amp. Or can the amp still be on, I am not sure how all this works exactly. Please explain.
   
  Thank you.


----------



## MrEleventy

ixpertman said:


> 2) I am thinking of using the analog output of the Aune to act as a DAC for a pair of speakers, perhaps the Audioengine A2s. Is it possible to use it as a DAC only system, without the amp. Or can the amp still be on, I am not sure how all this works exactly. Please explain.
> 
> Thank you.


Can't help you with the Mac portion, strictly PC user here. Once it's on, it's on. But you can bypass the amp using the line out. You can use it dac only, amp only, or dac & amp. Keep in mind that you must use the dac portion if you intend to use the tube as they're tied together. Amp is just a SS amp module that bolts onto the tube dac.


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





ixpertman said:


> What a wonderful piece of Chinese engineering! As it appears that this Aune T1 DAC/AMP is as good as the Schiit Magni & Modi (Combo), better than the Audioquest Dragonfly and hence, many, many more pieces of sophisticated equipment. Especially for such a modest price, it seems too good to be true. I just have a few questions on it.
> 
> 1) I have a Mac, and many people see Macs as having quite good audio cards. Would there still be a big difference in the quality, I currently use a Macbook Pro (2010)?
> 2) I am thinking of using the analog output of the Aune to act as a DAC for a pair of speakers, perhaps the Audioengine A2s. Is it possible to use it as a DAC only system, without the amp. Or can the amp still be on, I am not sure how all this works exactly. Please explain.
> ...


 
   
  The audio chips in the Macbook Pro are quite good although well built external DACs will typically be superior because extra care has been put into making something for a very specific purpose. In good faith I can't comment on that portion and I'm sure there are MANY threads here discussing the MBP audio out.
  To answer differently, yes you will see a change in your audio quality. If not only because there's an amplifier driving your headphones now. Because the T1 is a "tube DAC" you'll be able to switch out tubes and thereby change many aspects of the audio coming out of the T1 to your liking.
   
  I'm fairly sure you could hook the T1 up to your A2s through the headphone/amp out and be fine. However because the A2s are self amped you should likely use the Line Outs on the back of the T1 to run RCA cables to your A2s. This would be the best solution. You could still likely use the amplifier built into the T1 with headphones if you wanted to.
  Do yourself a favor and buy at least Monoprice heavy gauge RCA cables. If you're feeling spendy, get pure silver or silver clad wiring.


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> I just ordered my Aune T1!  The version includes the 6922.
> 
> One thing that I hate about listening to mp3s through my computer (without a dac) is that they sound too digital.  Will the tube make it sound more analog- like listening to a record (without all the scratches?)  If so, any recommendations for listening to oldies like the Temptations, Ray Charles, or Fats Domino?
> 
> ...


 
  The problem is the source material that you're listening to. Garbage in, garbage out.
  Your MP3s are likely highly compressed and it's going to be very easy to hear that compression with higher grade audio equipment. If you're already hearing compression distortion in your music, the T1 is only going to make it worse because it'll resolve details in the music better.
  If you're going to use MP3s, use at least 320kpbs recordings.
  People here typically like to use FLAC recordings although I've read some controversial claims that unless you're using several thousand dollars in equipment, most people wouldn't hear the difference between 320kpbs MP3s and FLAC recordings.


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





case said:


> Speakers produce sound through the vibration of the cone so they vibrate. Why is your Aune vibrating? Are you operating it on top of a subwoofer or inside your car?


 
   
  Just comparing something that seemed trivia in both cases that are substantial in their own way..
   
  I was also actually referring to the microphonic phenomenon of tubes, not T1, which is what the damper is solely for, hahah...


----------



## penmarker

I can tap the tube with my nails and not hear anything through my cans. How microphonic is your tube?


----------



## CoiL

I have some tubes that are littlebit microphonic (sensitive to tapping) but will tube damper make bass tighter? Sorry, still think it`s bs.
   
  edit: Btw, bought another tube - NOS NIB Siemens PCC189/7ES8, for 6.5€


----------



## Salvatore

*General Aune T1 Info: *
  
*joeq70*'s FAQ
Operation Explained
Technical Information / Product Description
User Manual
Gain Settings
*Paspie*'s Unboxing
  
*T1 Impressions & Comparisons:*
  
Headfonia comparison (against Schiit Magni/Modi)
Impressions and Comparisons by *RMac* (against Schiit Magni/Modi & FiiO E17)
Impressions & Review by* White Lotus*
Review by *Illbetheone*
Impressions by *diaBoliQu3*
Impressions by *BenWaB3*
  
*T1 Tube Types:*
  
List of supported tube types by *lwrs10*
  
*Useful Tube Links:*
  
Tube types/descriptions by Brent Jessee Recording & Supply, Inc. 
Condensed version by *Salvatore*
  
*Tube Reviews & Impressions:*
  
Joe's Tube Lore
*icecap*'s impressions
*tomatolicious*' impressions
*Gr3g277*'s impressions
*dcfi**s*'s impressions
*Salvatore*'s impressions, Pt. 1
*Salvatore*'s impressions, Pt. 2
*Auditore*'s impressions
*Sarurururu*'s impressions
*arcorob*'s impressions
*lwrs10*'s impressions
*babyhunz*'s impressions
*ElBartoME*'s impressions
  
*Tube ID:*
  
Tube ID tips from Tubemonger (Head-Fi post by *HK_sends*)
  
*Factory Codes:*
  
How to interpret factory and date codes by *Salvatore*
Amperex, Mullard, Philips and Valvo tube codes by Brent Jessee Recording & Suppy, Inc
Read and understand the codes [Tube-Classics.de]
Philips tube codes PDF
Philips factory valve codes PDF
  
*Identifying Amperex Tubes:*
  
How to identify by *Salvatore*
  
*DIY:*
  
Led color mod by *ElBartoMe*
  
*Miscellaneous Audio Links:*
  
Describing Sound: A Glossary
Headphone Measurements Explained
Frequency Chart
Build a Headphone Graph


----------



## Salvatore

*Coil*, could you do easy to read all-in-one review post of your tubes.


----------



## CoiL

...


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> I can tap the tube with my nails and not hear anything through my cans. How microphonic is your tube?


 
   
  my tubes are not either.. hah, my point is basically just a justification to what *tommo21*'s observation was and offering a plausible viewpoint on the dampers.. my Aune is not vibrating and tubes are not microphonic... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> I have some tubes that are littlebit microphonic (sensitive to tapping) but will tube damper make bass tighter? Sorry, still think it`s bs.


 
   
  no one is convincing you, just a sharing.. have not tried that myself either, so I thought an open opinion can do just fine...
   
  anyway, thanks for the efforts for the reviews and also to Salvatore for the collation!


----------



## MrEleventy

So far, the only tube that I have that are microphonic is the power tube on my Darkvoice 336se, Tung-sol 5998/Chatham 2399. Everything else, I can't hear a thing tapping. 

Listening to the new Daft Punk album right now and thoroughly enjoying it on my setup. I can leave Head-Fi now and be blissfully ignorant of everything else.  *slumping into chair* Ahhhh.


----------



## CoiL

White logo Ultron PCC189 is like meant to be played with new NIN -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgwrxcO48N8
  Freaking eargasm! ;P
   
  edit: nah, I think it was just based on song emotion, gold logo Ultron still tinybit better but both really good with this kind of music.
   
  Btw, just won auction on two Brimar PCC189 ( made by Mullard Blackburn, [size=medium]IP1/B2J3 and IP1/B2J4 ) [/size]tubes for 4.7£ (posting included).


----------



## LegendX48

I've been looking around for a good amp/dac since I got my Sennheiser HD 558s and after a bunch of posts here and elsewhere the Aune T1 and Astro Mixamp were brought to my attention. I want something primarily for music but something that can also do gaming, pc gaming that is, and the usage would be 50/50 music/gaming. Would the Aune T1 be a good choice or would it be better to go with the mixamp?


----------



## penmarker

I've never heard of the Mixamp before, but the Aunte T1 would be a great choice.


----------



## teb1013

Over the last week or so I have been trying out the 6N23P Voskhod tube. I found its sound to be a bit wearing, too forward for long listening sessions. I just switched back to the 6922eh and immediately noticed a more pleasing sound with the jazz and classical that I listen to most. I don't really know the correct terms to explain what I like better about the 6922 but out of the 2 tubes I currently have, I definitely like this one best. Now to save up for a good NOS tube to see how that works. Right now I'm listening to Mike Oldfield's Tubular Bells, spectacular!


----------



## CoiL

With mike oldfield trubular bells - 6922EH is way better! 6N23P is very foward sounding tube with considerably less air and soundstage. 6N23P is good for jazz glam-rock etc. to create very close intimate feeling. But even then I personally find it to be too "muddy & through the blanket" sounding. I think for classical you should try Tesla PCC88 (32 coded yellow) / JAN Sylvania 6922 / Ultron PCC189.


----------



## lolspops

Quote: 





coil said:


> With mike oldfield trubular bells - 6922EH is way better! 6N23P is very foward sounding tube with considerably less air and soundstage. 6N23P is good for jazz glam-rock etc. to create very close intimate feeling. But even then I personally find it to be too "muddy & through the blanket" sounding. I think for classical you should try Tesla PCC88 (32 coded yellow) / JAN Sylvania 6922 / Ultron PCC189.


 
  Hey CoiL, I've sent you a PM and was wondering if you could check it out.


----------



## Ophiel

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> I've used it this way before I upgraded to a darkvoice 336se amp and it works really well.
> 
> E: btw, using the Line In of the T1 will bypass the tube and you'll only be using the T1's SS amp. The only way to use the tube is via USB in. It's a usb tube dac + ss amp.


 
  Is it possible to describe the difference between T1's SS amp and the darkvoice? I recently got the T1 and HD600s and after hearing them, i decided that the HD600s will be my end game headphones and don't mind spending a little more to get the last bit of juice out of them. I was considering the BH crack, but the darkvoice looks so sexy 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. 
   
  However, I am keeping my expectations down as to how much a better amp will change the sound. I will probably be auditioning the asgard 2 together with the T1 to hear for myself how much improvement a mid tier amp can give and make my decision from there. I absolutely don't mind just using the T1's built in amp if I don't hear a significant change, as the T1 already sounds so awesome!


----------



## CoiL

Just received this tube, Mazda Belvu PCC189:

   
  On box it says Fabrication Francaise and PCC189 V - 9 . Tube itself doesn`t have any factory code. Seems rare tube bc could not get any info on it other than datasheet. First impressions - tight & punchy but smooth bass, mids feel great, highs are good. Soundstage seems to be foward sounding & intimate but in a good way. Will not say anything more because I`m tired and will let it burn. Anyway, it`s not same Mazda PCC189 that I already have ( coded B9I5 ).


----------



## MrEleventy

ophiel said:


> Is it possible to describe the difference between T1's SS amp and the darkvoice? I recently got the T1 and HD600s and after hearing them, i decided that the HD600s will be my end game headphones and don't mind spending a little more to get the last bit of juice out of them. I was considering the BH crack, but the darkvoice looks so sexy
> 
> 
> 
> ...




It's kinda hard. I haven't pinned down the amp's signature prior to the tubed path. I want to say it's neutral and leaning on slightly warm. A lot of how it sounds depends on the tubes that you have in the darkvoice. The power tube that I'm using is fast, has tight bass, and is slightly bright (Tung-sol 5998/Chatham 2399) and the driver is warm and slightly bassy so they work well together. to give a detailed and slightly warm signature to pair with my dt880s. For the HD600s, you'll probably want a good 6as7 tube as it has a fatter tube-y bass sound. and probably a bright driver to give it more sparkle along the highs. It's all in how you roll it to be honest.


----------



## trustt

What would be a good budget tube with similar sound to the Amperex 7308 PQ White Label and/or the Telefunken 7DJ8 ?


----------



## MrEleventy

Maybe the Telefunken PCC189/7es8? That's if you're looking for neutral & transparent with good soundstage. I got mine relatively cheap due to lower demand/popularity.


----------



## Davils Advocate

Could someone help me? I just got an Aune T1 and right out of the box it doesn't sound good at all. There is a major channel imbalance. could it be the tube?


----------



## MrEleventy

Sounds like it, get another tube and try again. if it's still happening, I would get with the seller.


----------



## unknowdata

Just got Amperex 7308 Nos Gold Pin and it is now my most favorite. Mullard UK comes second.


----------



## Magirush

Alright...
  wow.
  This is a really awesome piece of kit; I'm so glad I bought it.  Much thanks to Salvatore and many others for convincing me to buy this.  I'm just listening to the stock eh6922 tube right now, it sounds really good.  Amperex pq orange label coming very soon, and I'm excited!
  I've got a question for you guys though: what setting do you use for the switches on the bottom?  The low end seems slightly distorted when both switches are on(even at the same volume level as I listen with both switches off), but I kind of like the analog distortion in small amounts so I may leave it.
   
  Additionally, if someone can link me to the part of this thread where wasapi+asio are discussed that would be great.  Can't seem to find it with search.


----------



## MrEleventy

those are gain switches. they're meant for higher ohm hps. I find that for really efficient hps or iems, 0 gain works best. (all off). +10 for everything around 300 and all up for 600 ohms hps. rule of thumb is you want the lowest gain with the best dial range. if you can run 0 and it gets loud enough, leave it.


----------



## Magirush

Yeah, I know what the switches are.  Just wondering if anyone sort of had the same preference that I did about leaving the gain switches up.  I've settled for +10 gain, which is clear but still gives a bit of analog distortion.
   
  Edit: Found this on foobar's component list:
   
  Please note that this component is meant for systems where ASIO is the only available output method. It is highly recommended to use the default output modes instead of ASIO. Contrary to popular "audiophile" claims, there are NO benefits from using ASIO as far as music playback quality is concerned, while bugs in ASIO drivers may severely degrade the performance.
   
  So why is it better again?  I notice that foobar has a Wasapi option in the playback tab, should I use that?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





magirush said:


> Additionally, if someone can link me to the part of this thread where wasapi+asio are discussed that would be great.  Can't seem to find it with search.


 
   
  I don't remember too much plugin conversation here, but here's some JRiverWiki links and guides. You can try different plugins and choose the one that works for you. I think there were some additional benefits when using wasapi (event), but can't really remember anymore? If any of you guys have good informative links, please post them here and I'll add them to the info post.
   
  http://wiki.jriver.com/index.php/Audio_Output_Modes
  http://wiki.jriver.com/index.php/WASAPI
   
  http://www.cambridgeaudio.com/media/windows_7_wasapi_setup-1353494368.pdf
  http://www.whathifi.com/forum/computer-based-music/how-tosetup-foobar2000-to-use-wasapi


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





magirush said:


> Yeah, I know what the switches are.  Just wondering if anyone sort of had the same preference that I did about leaving the gain switches up.  I've settled for +10 gain, which is clear but still gives a bit of analog distortion.
> 
> Edit: Found this on foobar's component list:
> 
> ...


 
  Use WASAPI, ASIO or KSP... the one that fits best for you but certainly don`t leave it to default output. All those 3 options stream audio through RAM and don`t use internal OS filtering.
  That foobar text is crap.


----------



## Magirush

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Glad you like your new toy. EH is good tube but there are better tubes out there (sometimes I feel like being too hard on the EH). I happily use 0 gain with volume knob around 50%. AKG K702 anniversaries are a bit louder that the regular K702 due to the memory foam pad design (drivers are closer to ear and pads are not tilted). No distortion whatsoever. Is it possible that the distortion comes from the tube? Well you can easily check this after receiving your new tubes. I don't remember too much plugin conversation here, but here's some JRiverWiki links + guides + my own settings (I use wasapi event for who knows what reason... probably read some threads etc before downloading the plugin). You can try different plugins and choose the one that works for you. I think there were some additional benefits when using wasapi event, but can't really remember anymore? If any of you guys have good informative links, please post them here and I'll add them to the info post.


 
  The distortion was caused, I think ,because the gain settings were at +16 db.  Even at the same volume levels it would distort more with those switches enabled.  I guess it must have been too much for the headphones.  I'm using it at 0 now, but the distortion didn't sound very bad or obvious.
  Anyway, about the output, my settings actually are exactly the same as yours are.  I guess my version of foobar comes with wasapi installed.


----------



## unknowdata

It's quite scary to see the tube collection growing... Aune T1 is not cheap after alll. But Tube-rolling is very fun indeed.
   
   

   
  The remaining two should arrive on Monday, I would stop for now until I upgrade to WA7 Firefiles or something else.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





unknowdata said:


> It's quite scary to see the tube collection growing...


 

 Cool collection! Now you need some proper storage system for your tubes. My suggestion is to go for a small cigar box coated with foam plastic.


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> The problem is the source material that you're listening to. Garbage in, garbage out.
> Your MP3s are likely highly compressed and it's going to be very easy to hear that compression with higher grade audio equipment. If you're already hearing compression distortion in your music, the T1 is only going to make it worse because it'll resolve details in the music better.
> If you're going to use MP3s, use at least 320kpbs recordings.
> People here typically like to use FLAC recordings although I've read some controversial claims that unless you're using several thousand dollars in equipment, most people wouldn't hear the difference between 320kpbs MP3s and FLAC recordings.


 
  Hi inphu,
  Almost all of my mp3s are rips from CDs that I own (I've never purchased from itunes) and at 320kbps.  I understand that a dac wont make 128kbps sound good.  But, with high quality mp3s, CDs, or Flac, I'm wondering if a specific tube will bring more analog sounding life to it.


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> Hi inphu,
> Almost all of my mp3s are rips from CDs that I own (I've never purchased from itunes) and at 320kbps.  I understand that a dac wont make 128kbps sound good.  But, with high quality mp3s, CDs, or Flac, I'm wondering if a specific tube will bring more analog sounding life to it.


 
  Interesting. What's your setup?
  The warmest and most "analog" tubes I'm aware of are Mullard tubes made in the UK. These tend to have a bit more rolled off highs and sometimes "tubby" bass but it might be more of what you're looking for. Amperex are the next in line beyond that.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





unknowdata said:


> It's quite scary to see the tube collection growing... Aune T1 is not cheap after alll. But Tube-rolling is very fun indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  That`s "nothing" compared to my collection. Atm I have 25 tubes + 6 arriving any moment + some more tubes on trigger 
  That black-money-sucking-box just won`t stop! HELP!!! 
   
  Btw, seems that your have Amperex OG with single support leg dimple disc? Is it GAC coded? If it is, how you like it compared to others?
  It`s still one of my best tubes along with Ultron PCC189 (gold label) , A-frame OG (GA8) and Miniwatt-Dario PCC189.
   
  Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> I'm wondering if a specific tube will bring more analog sounding life to it.


 
  From my collection I can recommend Mullard PCC189, Mazda Belvu PCC189 or 6N23P Reflector... intimate, warm & "old" sounding tubes.
  Good for classic rock/jazz.


----------



## unknowdata

salvatore said:


> Cool collection! Now you need some proper storage system for your tubes. My suggestion is to go for a small cigar box coated with foam plastic.


 
  Thanks for your suggestion. I saw your box on the page 99 and absolutely love it. Currently I simply put them in the original boxes because I will have to move back after I graduate.
   
  It is possible bring these tubes along with the flight? Or should I ship them seperately?

   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> That`s "nothing" compared to my collection. Atm I have 25 tubes + 6 arriving any moment + some more tubes on trigger
> That black-money-sucking-box just won`t stop! HELP!!!
> 
> Btw, seems that your have Amperex OG with single support leg dimple disc? Is it GAC coded? If it is, how you like it compared to others?
> ...


 
   
  Wow! You should show your collection to us  This little dac/amp is indeed money sucker lol. I would like to buy more but I just found my favourite tube, so I think I could stop lol. Might upgrade to better kit soon. But I still cant think of any.
   
  However, it's quite hard for me to get some tubes in UK. My Amperex 7308 Gold Pin ($85) cost me $50 for the shipment alone. Plus got tax for another £30. My last two tubes are still in the custom too.
   
  My Orange Amperex says GAC 49F4. I only use it for a few minutes before I test another tubes that came on the same day. So I cannot judge yet, but I will compare it with Globe version too once it arrives


----------



## CoiL

One note, your Amperex OG GAC should be _[size=medium]Δ[/size]_9F4 not 4. My GAC is _[size=medium]Δ9F3. Δ = Made in Holland Heerlen.[/size]_
 You can read about my tubes from this thread, they all are mentioned here more or less.
  And I don`t get it... how it`s hard to get tubes from UK? I get most of my tubes from eBay.UK and cheaply, even when including posting cost to Estonia.


----------



## unknowdata

Quote: 





coil said:


> One note, your Amperex OG GAC should be _[size=medium]Δ[/size]_9F4 not 4. My GAC is _[size=medium]Δ9F3. Δ = Made in Holland Heerlen.[/size]_
> You can read about my tubes from this thread, they all are mentioned here more or less.
> And I don`t get it... how it`s hard to get tubes from UK? I get most of my tubes from eBay.UK and cheaply, even when including posting cost to Estonia.


 
  You are correct, it's _[size=medium]Δ[/size]_ not 4.
   
  I have should wrote it more clear, actually it's only when I'm trying to buy tube from non-EU sellers. I usually have no problem buying tube from European sellers, shipment are usually cheap. However, USPS always make me wait for a month (slow shipping + stuck at custom) before it arrives at door step.


----------



## icecap

unknowdata said:


> However, it's quite hard for me to get some tubes in UK. My Amperex 7308 Gold Pin ($85) cost me $50 for the shipment alone. Plus got tax for another £30. My last two tubes are still in the custom too.



You can try some of the tubes from quartz acoustic? They are from Singapore and cost S$3 for each tube shipping worldwide only..

I am from Singapore so I can't tell how's the speed for the overseas shipping though.. Maybe if someone here overseas had bought from them before and share their waiting time from them?


----------



## Rayzilla

sorrodje said:


> T1+ Ultrasone is a real good idea... T1 will tames a bit pro900 trebles and bring a bit forwardness in the mids  .. i had an E17 before my T1...




I just came across this thread while researching on the Audio GD NFB-11. 32. I would really like to check these two dac/amps in person. Has anyone seen these at any shops in Hong Kong?


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





coil said:


> That`s "nothing" compared to my collection. Atm I have 25 tubes + 6 arriving any moment + some more tubes on trigger
> That black-money-sucking-box just won`t stop! HELP!!!
> 
> Btw, seems that your have Amperex OG with single support leg dimple disc? Is it GAC coded? If it is, how you like it compared to others?
> ...


 
   
  Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> Interesting. What's your setup?
> The warmest and most "analog" tubes I'm aware of are Mullard tubes made in the UK. These tend to have a bit more rolled off highs and sometimes "tubby" bass but it might be more of what you're looking for. Amperex are the next in line beyond that.


 
  Thank you both for your recommendations 
  -AudioFrog


----------



## CoiL

LOL, I forgot about some tubes... it`s 11 tubes incoming any moment not 6 
  They are:
   
  2x Brimar PCC189 (Mullard)
  Sovtek 6922 98 goldpin
  Sovtek 6922 04
  Miniwatt Dario ECC189
  2x Tungsram PCC88 (different)
  2x Tesla PCC88 (different)
  Siemens PCC189
  Siemens PCC88
   
  and more coming soon... ;D


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> LOL, I forgot about some tubes... it`s 11 tubes incoming any moment not 6
> They are:
> 
> 2x Brimar PCC189 (Mullard)
> ...


 
   
  Dude getting out of hand


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> I'm wondering if a specific tube will bring more analog sounding life to it.


 
   
  Try Siemens 7DJ8.


----------



## TJunky

has anyone tried this amp with the MadDog?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Try Siemens 7DJ8.


 
Just received my Siemens PCC88. Can`t read out the first part of the code but I`m guessing it`s DJ8 and second part of code I haven`t seen before, it`s ‡2C. And on the top of the tube there is written two times 369. On the glass bottom it`s written 22. First impressions - tight & punchy bass but feels littlebit​ "boomy". ​Warm sounding. ​Wouldn`t say it`s intimate as Mullard PCC189 & 6N23P reflector but it sounds good, soundstage is wider in horizontal way than​ other ​two have. ​Highs seem to be littlebit laid back. ​Got to burn this tube, I`m (my ears) tired atm after work but ​sounds interesting. ​   
edit: I think it`s one of my least glowing tubes. But it sounds good with metal/progressive rock. Will give more details soon.​   
edit2: Seems that tube really needs burning. It has opened up in everything. And seems to be one of the good all-arounder-tubes.​


----------



## MrEleventy

unknowdata said:


> It's quite scary to see the tube collection growing... Aune T1 is not cheap after alll. But Tube-rolling is very fun indeed.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




That's a nice collection of tubes. And yeah, tube rolling can get really expensive. Especially when you get more amps that take different tube sizes. I've got 3 diff types rolling currently. I keep it in a plastic tacklebox with hobby foam.



I need to get another one soon.. :X


----------



## Salvatore

Guys just to let you know I've upgraded my T1 rig with Focal XS Book active desktop speakers. First I auditioned Tangent Evo 4 but they didn't impress me much. The mids were awesome and the case design was brilliant but that was about it. I've auditioned many full size active speakers during the years and somehow I always find myself drawn into the highly musical Focal sound. XS book seems to offer very good value for money, but we'll see after I've got some real time with these new toys. I'll post more impressions after burn in if anyone is interested. At least I'd be interested to know your experiences with T1 speakers systems.


----------



## penmarker

I'm pairing mine with Edifier T1900T3, so far so good, the speakers itself has a tubey sound and coupled with the T1 it has very good mids. Almost holographic. The bass quantity is not as much as my roomate's Aego M, but the quality is good. You can't really beat stereo lows lol. 

The XS Book is good, I know one person who sold off his HiVi Swans M50 to choose the XS Book. 

Too bad can't listen to the tube when I'm on my turntable.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> I'm pairing mine with Edifier T1900T3, so far so good, the speakers itself has a tubey sound and coupled with the T1 it has very good mids. Almost holographic.


 
   
  Yeah it really surprised me how clear and transparent the Evo mids were through T1. It wasn't just the speakers that I'm pretty sure of.


----------



## jipan

So It's almost a week since I received my Aune T1 with Electro-Harmonix 6922. Really enjoying it so far. Micro-details just so much better than my FiiO E10, but then Aune T1 cost me almost 3x the FiiO E10 was 
  Treble is better on Aune, fuller on lower treble, with less piercing upper treble. E10 sounded like have this scoped lower treble with more piercing and metallic upper treble.
  Vocal isn't as forward as E10, nor as weightier. It's like the vocals take one or two step backward. Smoother than E10, the details is so much better, and more real too.
  The bass is awesome, tighter than E10 (which could loose sometimes), layers and details is very good. Not as big as E10, though, but the less veiled mid-bass really nice to hears.
  Like Mr. Salvatore said before on this thread, Electro-Harmonix 6922 sound-stage is rather boomerang-shaped: wide on left-right, and not so deep on the front. I would trade some of the wideness on the left-right for deeper front. Compared, FiiO E10 have more consistent sound-stage.
   
  At first, Aune T1 sounded worse than my FiiO E10. Where are the sound-stage? The layering? The Details? And why on earth the treble sounded like cut-off and strange? Then I let it playing music while I go out with a friend. About 3-4 hours later, I plug in my Goldring DR150 and then, wow!!! It's sounded so much better!!! I don't think it's placebo effect, since I was comparing it directly with my FiiO E10. Is it because the tube is heated correctly? I've read several times on other thread of tube amplifier to give them some times for heating the tube. If that's the case, then I'm convicted! (I was sceptical at first, LOL )
   
   
  Right now I'm enjoying it with my Goldring DR150, still waiting for my Sennheiser HD600. Now, if only July could come faster....


----------



## Ophiel

to add on, I'm using the audioengine A2s with the T1 as DAC. When i switched from xonar DX to the T1, at first the drop in bass quantity was disappointing. But I quickly realised that I was getting quality bass and much, much more detail and imaging. I haven't used the DX since then  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  EDIT: I tried using my xonar as dac lined into the T1's amp. Hmmm... it's actually still pretty good!


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





jipan said:


> At first, Aune T1 sounded worse than my FiiO E10. Where are the sound-stage? The layering? The Details? And why on earth the treble sounded like cut-off and strange? Then I let it playing music while I go out with a friend. About 3-4 hours later, I plug in my Goldring DR150 and then, wow!!! It's sounded so much better!!! I don't think it's placebo effect, since I was comparing it directly with my FiiO E10. Is it because the tube is heated correctly? I've read several times on other thread of tube amplifier to give them some times for heating the tube. If that's the case, then I'm convicted! (I was sceptical at first, LOL )
> 
> 
> Right now I'm enjoying it with my Goldring DR150, still waiting for my Sennheiser HD600. Now, if only July could come faster....


 
  Hey you're using the DR150 too! Great to see another user here.


----------



## MrEleventy

I loved the e10 when I had it but I sold it because it was a bit too warm for my taste. I want my source as neutral as I can get. Get an amperex orange globe, if you want a more coherent soundstage and warmer mids. Downside is slightly rolled highs and lows.


----------



## jipan

Another DR150 user!!!  This little gem is not very well known here, got drowned by newer and bigger brands! I was comparing it with Shure 440 and Alessandro MS1 but liking DR150 more so I bought it.
  Quote: 





penmarker said:


> Hey you're using the DR150 too! Great to see another user here.


 
   
  Wow, each people really hears differently, for I found E10 rather bright! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The treble could get peaky and splashy. E10 got nice forward vocal, though. I prefer warmer sound, because I rather sensitive to treble, especially upper treble. Right now I'm browsing for Amperex OG on ebay and local forum. I'll try getting a used one, I think, because the NOS are too expensive right now 
  Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> I loved the e10 when I had it but I sold it because it was a bit too warm for my taste. I want my source as neutral as I can get. Get an amperex orange globe, if you want a more coherent soundstage and warmer mids. Downside is slightly rolled highs and lows.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





jipan said:


> So It's almost a week since I received my Aune T1 with Electro-Harmonix 6922. Really enjoying it so far. Micro-details just so much better than my FiiO E10, but then Aune T1 cost me almost 3x the FiiO E10 was
> Treble is better on Aune, fuller on lower treble, with less piercing upper treble. E10 sounded like have this scoped lower treble with more piercing and metallic upper treble.
> Vocal isn't as forward as E10, nor as weightier. It's like the vocals take one or two step backward. Smoother than E10, the details is so much better, and more real too.
> The bass is awesome, tighter than E10 (which could loose sometimes), layers and details is very good. Not as big as E10, though, but the less veiled mid-bass really nice to hears.
> ...


 
   
  I really see myself in this post. I came from E17 and also found the T1 to have less sparkle in the treble (maybe because I liked to EQ the E17 treble for +2 db). First I wasn't sure if T1 was any upgrade at all, but once both T1 and my brain got burned in I started noticing the smooth, musical, detailed and layered sound that T1 produced. Bass was also better. Something seemed "off" with the sound stage / imaging, but later on I noticed that it was the stock tube. I found the EH to be wide, but not deep enough. Siemens 7DJ8 is more my cup of tea since it feels deeper and still manages to keep vocals intimate. It also has this nice analog feel in it. Siemens vs EH sound stage is like oval vs boomerang. The best tubes, however, are the ones with big spherical imaging where imaging/positioning matches the sound stage (Amperexes etc.). Orange print Amperexes, for example, have very nice big spherical sound stage where all the instruments seem to be just in the right place. From orange print you can upgrade to 7308 and gain more layers and transparency + better bass. Orange print lacks some of that sparkle which is no longer issue with 7308.
   
  This post of yours was very enjoyable read, thank you for that!


----------



## MrEleventy

I upgraded from an E17 as well. I was going to go with the odac originally but I've read where people have said that they didn't see much differences between the E17 and ODac. I didn't want to sidegrade/downgrade for more money so I started looking around more and found the Aune T1. I didn't notice too much of a difference, I ran the E17 as a DAC using the L9 lineout dock. There was clarity and the weird soundstage of the 6922EH, rolled in the russion 6N23P-EB and the soundstage normalized, got nice bass. When I rolled in the Amperex Orange Globe, that was an eye opening experience. I keep reading about how great the 7308 and the curiosity is getting the better of me. I think I'll be springing for one soon to complement the more sterile Telefunken PCC189 that I have.


----------



## penmarker

I complaint I have with the unit is my volume pot is already noisy. Other than that it's running real good still


----------



## MrEleventy

btw Salvatore, how's the bass on the K702 Annies? I've always wanted to try out the AKG x70x line but most people's impression says that the bass is light. I'm not a basshead (Anymore... ) but I do like some thump.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> When I rolled in the Amperex Orange Globe, that was an eye opening experience. I keep reading about how great the 7308 and the curiosity is getting the better of me. I think I'll be springing for one soon to complement the more sterile Telefunken PCC189 that I have.


 
   
  +1. Orange globe was the first tube to make me shed man tears  Everything was clicking into places with that tube. This is mainly because of the synergy. I think you have similar synergy with Bayer DT880. 7308 is awesome but the jump from OG to 7308 PQ is not even close to what it was from those first tubes to orange globe. After orange the diminished returns are hitting hard. Tubes get really expensive and the improvement is not so great anymore. This being said, if you can find the perfect pleasing sound with one tube I guess it's worth the investment. To be honest I'm using my 7308 very VERY sparingly. It's for special occasions like my 18 years old Glenlivet whisky 
   
  Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> btw Salvatore, how's the bass on the K702 Annies? I've always wanted to try out the AKG x70x line but most people's impression says that the bass is light. I'm not a basshead (Anymore...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Well if you have chance to try x70x, EQ the bass about +3 db. This gives you some idea, but it's not the whole story. It's not only increased bass quantity, but the warmness also rolls into mids as well. You lose some of that crispness, but imo it's well worth it because of the increased musicality and versatility. Some people might hate this comparison, but K702 anniversaries are like a mix of K702 and HD650. Detailed big sound stage, forward mids and warmish spectrum (T1 + anniversaries + female vocal heavy chillout music = heavenly combination). I was able to test K702 vs anniversaries in the same amp and there was no contest for me. I think anniversaries are definitely worth that extra hundred. They are very nice all around cans and much more enjoyable than the standard versions. For people who listen mainly classical I recommend the standard versions.
   
  I should mention that the differences between standard K702 and anniversaries are in the ear pads and head band. Drivers are the same. The anniversary band doesn't have those bumps and the ear pads are non angled tempur like memory foam. This kind of foam gives better seal (think of them as semi open cans). The drivers also come closer to your ear so you don't need so much amplification (loudness wise). I actually have the standars K702 pads as well which I use for classical etc. Definitely good headphones and I'm sure that whoever likes DT880 will love anniversaries. This being said the DT880 are very very nice headphones.
   
  In case you are interested AKG releases K712 pro, which is basically anniversary edition with orange color theme + orange cable + extra coiled 5m cable + carry bag. There is dedicated thread for these cans here. Subscribe if interested.


----------



## Virco

Hello guys,
   
  Despite my fear that among your advanced/specialised talk about all sort of exotic tubes to roll on the Aune, my question will sound flat, muddled and with no "sound-stage" whatsoever, here goes:
   
  I mainly play my music from an 80Gb iPod 5th gen. filled to the brim with ALAC files, through a rather basic portable Storm headphone amp, to my ATH-AD700 or Grado 80i.
  Since I don't really listen to music on the move - and when I do I'm quite satisfied with what my Ethymotic hf5 or Yamaha EPH100 are giving me - I am thinking about getting a tube tabletop headphone amp to drive my headphones - especially the Grados - and through reading many of this forum's posts I was thinking about the Aune T1.
   
  My question is: since I don't play my music from the computer (hence no USB connection), if I were to use a 30 pin to RCA cable to connect my iPod to the T1, would that give me the benefit of the tube or will it just go through the solid-state part of the amp? In other words, is the Aune a tube headphone amp or just a tube DAC?
   
  Thank you very much for your replies as well as putting up with my newbe ingenuity...
  And if anyone feels inclined to give me any advice on other decent tube headphone amps - I don't have the budget for the really good ones - I assure you it will be highly appreciated.
   
  Cheers,


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





virco said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> Despite my fear that among your advanced/specialised talk about all sort of exotic tubes to roll on the Aune, my question will sound flat, muddled and with no "sound-stage" whatsoever, here goes:
> 
> ...


 
  You will not get the benefit of the tube.  It's a tube dac, not a tube amp.  So you can still use it as an amp, but you wont get the benefit of the tube when using your ipod.  I'd recommend a tube amp, not a tube dac for you.


----------



## Virco

Quote: 





virco said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> Despite my fear that among your advanced/specialised talk about all sort of exotic tubes to roll on the Aune, my question will sound flat, muddled and with no "sound-stage" whatsoever, here goes:
> 
> ...


 
  Just to make things even more clear:
  Is the tube DAC function coming into play only when the signal is fed through the USB port or can I feed digital signal trough the rear RCA input too?
  Cheers


----------



## Virco

Quote: 





virco said:


> Just to make things even more clear:
> Is the tube DAC function coming into play only when the signal is fed through the USB port or can I feed digital signal trough the rear RCA input too?
> Cheers


 
   
  Well, me again... not only do I ask daft sounding questions, it appears I also lack basic knowledge of my own equipment 
  After careful consideration I reached the conclusion that no matter the output port (be it the top headphones port, or the bottom 30 pin port) the signal coming out from the iPod is already converted to analog, despite the one put out through the bottom 30 pin connector not being influenced by the volume setting on the iPod. By some faulty assumptions I was thinking that only the signal being put out trough the top headphones port was analog and the one pumped out through the bottom 30 pin connector was still digital, which is obviously not the case on closer scrutiny. LOL...


----------



## penmarker

Yes, when you use the 30 pin connection it is outputting line level audio from the iPod. This is called the Line Out Dock and used by people for amping purposes. To utilize the digital output from an iPod, only select DAC devices are granted license to process digital signals from an iPod because Apple is just like that. 

You can just plug in your iPod to your pc and use iTunes to play the contents in your iPod. That would work fine.


----------



## TJunky

how's this with the mad dog, lcd2 or he500?


----------



## Virco

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> .....
> 
> You can just plug in your iPod to your pc and use iTunes to play the contents in your iPod. That would work fine.


 
   
  Good point!
   
  Let me see if I got this right: so if I connect my iPod to my Mac and then use iTunes to play its content, then through the USB port on the Mac I have access to the unconverted digital signal than I can put trough a decent DAC?
   
  Thank you so much.


----------



## SanJulesSur

Hi everyone,
   
  This is my first post on head-fi but been frequenting as a "guest" for a while now.  I've had my Aune T1 for a couple of weeks now and I use it with my Hifiman HE-400 and HE-500. It's a highly impressive Tube DAC with amp.  It's definitely an upgrade to my first and past dac/amp, the Headroom Total Bithead and I feel it sounds better than the Schiit Modi/Magni stack which I auditioned.  I love how you can change the sound signature of the T1 to suit your tastes through tube rolling.  Right now, aside from the standard tube, I have a Genalex Gold Lion E88CC and a Mullard E88CC w/ gold pins.  I have a couple more tubes on the way and trying to resist the temptation to order more; it's quite addicting though.  
   
  I'd like to ask for the help of the others here though to confirm the identity of my Mullard tube.  The markings have worn off and the ones that are barely legible say "E88CC" and "Great Britain."  I know it won't be much help since from reading this thread I've learned that tubes are often rebranded.  It does have the described sound of a Mullard that people here have written about where it's lush, musical, and warm with slightly rolled off highs. It pairs wonderfully with my Hifiman cans and is my favorite tube out of the 3 I have.  
   
  I'd attach pics but it seems it's not letting me attach any.  (Maybe since it's my first post?)
   
  here are the links to the images on ebay from the auction i won it from:

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Mullard-E88CC-tube-gold-pin-premium-6DJ8-6922-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/z/6XgAAMXQHU1RoWlP/$T2eC16d,!zUE9s38+p7qBRoWlOs95!~~60_57.JPG
   
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Mullard-E88CC-tube-gold-pin-premium-6DJ8-6922-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/z/KO8AAOxypthRoWlN/$T2eC16Z,!)cE9s4PudhcBRoWlNY5Vg~~60_57.JPG
   
  Thoughts/confirmation on its identity anyone?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## SanJulesSur

Hi Tjunky
   
  I have the HE400 and the HE500.  The amp definitely has enough power to run the former and with the HE500 I still keep the adjustable gain switch to standard.  I do listen at lower volumes than most but I feel most people would be happy with the HE500 and the gain switched on to +10 position.  
   
  With regards to the sound it's a great DAC and depending on the tube you use, you can suit it to match how you want the hifiman to sound.  I prefer a warmer musical sound and I feel it suits the HE400 and HE500 perfectly. They sound great whatever the genre; I listen to mostly alternative-indie rock but also some rap, pop, and classical.  
   
  I've tried the Mad Dogs as a headphone but it was run through a schitt magni/modi stack.  I think those would sound great too.  I have no experience with the HD650 and I plan to save up for an LCD-2.  
   
  The T1 is a great overall package though.  I was lucky and was able to purchase one on ebay for much less than retail.


----------



## TJunky

thanks! now I kinda regret not getting this amp. Have you tried the O2 amps? if so how does it compare?


----------



## penmarker

Virco:
Yeah that should work with no problem


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





sanjulessur said:


> Thoughts/confirmation on its identity anyone?


 
   
  Text position and getter suggests 60's Mullard (more likely IEC than shield logo). This being said I actually think it's Mullard, Blackburn made GE tube (maybe from 1969): http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-Pair-of-Mullard-Gold-Pin-6922-Tubes-/370696978125
   
  https://www.tubeworld.com/6922.htm#6922Mullard
  https://www.tubeworld.com/6dj8.htm#6DJ8MULL60
   
  E: I'm sure it's very nice tube! 
  E2: Just noticed the GE tube to have a large halo getter...


----------



## iamnoone

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Guys just to let you know I've upgraded my T1 rig with Focal XS Book active desktop speakers. First I auditioned Tangent Evo 4 but they didn't impress me much. The mids were awesome and the case design was brilliant but that was about it. I've auditioned many full size active speakers during the years and somehow I always find myself drawn into the highly musical Focal sound. XS book seems to offer very good value for money, but we'll see after I've got some real time with these new toys. I'll post more impressions after burn in if anyone is interested. At least I'd be interested to know your experiences with T1 speakers systems.


 
  Hello Salvatore,
  I just wanted to confirm something regarding your T1 speaker setup.  It's a totally noob question but I'm interested to know how you are controlling the volume.  Do you fully open the Focal speakers and control the volume using the T1?  I have a Qinpu A3 driving a set of passive Audioengine.  I'd like to get a T1 and run that as a DAC and get the added headphone amping function for my desk.  I would run my qinpu fully open and control the volume with the T1.  Thanks!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





iamnoone said:


> Hello Salvatore,
> I just wanted to confirm something regarding your T1 speaker setup.  It's a totally noob question but I'm interested to know how you are controlling the volume.  Do you fully open the Focal speakers and control the volume using the T1?  I have a Qinpu A3 driving a set of passive Audioengine.  I'd like to get a T1 and run that as a DAC and get the added headphone amping function for my desk.  I would run my qinpu fully open and control the volume with the T1.  Thanks!


 
   
  It seems to depend on the speakers. The tangents I had for test purposes had remote control and they responded to the T1 volume. I adjusted the speaker volume to the same level as my headphones so that I could always use the same familiar T1 volume levels regardless of what output was in use. Focals, however, seem to work differently. They don't respond to what volume levels my T1 has. I just adjust the volume from the speakers.
   
  E: Just to be clear, you're thinking this kind of setup; computer - T1 (control volume + headphone use) - Qinpu A3 (volume max) - Audioengine (passive?).


----------



## iamnoone

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> It seems to depend on the speakers. The tangents I had for test purposes had remote control and they responded to the T1 volume. I adjusted the speaker volume to the same level as my headphones so that I could always use the same familiar T1 volume levels regardless of what output was in use. Focals, however, seem to work differently. They don't respond to what volume levels my T1 has. I just adjust the volume from the speakers.
> 
> E: Just to be clear, you're thinking this kind of setup; computer - T1 (control volume + headphone use) - Qinpu A3 (volume max) - Audioengine (passive?).


 
  Yup, that's exactly right.  You are correct both in the signal path as well as the audioengines being the passive version.  I don't want to fiddle with the volume in two places.


----------



## Soori007

Hey Folks, I'm kinda new to this forum. Gained lot of knowledge by following this for few days. I just got my brand new Beyerdynamics T1 Tesla headphones. After following this Aune T1 thread, got interested in that and ordered a silver Aune T1 with EH 6922 tube. I even ordered a Telefunken E88CC tube as it got some rave reviews. Is this setup really going to fire up my Beyers with ease as it has 600 Ohms? How much headroom I can expect? My source is going to be a Macbook Pro and all my collection is in either 24 bit 96khz or 24 bit 192khz and most of them are from HDTracks. Do I really can make out the difference between the tubes? Advance thanks to all the forum members


----------



## penmarker

Wow a Beyer T1. Not sure about it but I think it will benefit better from something more powerful.


----------



## MrEleventy

Op has a really small blurb on the beyer t1 running of the t1. says that the bass benefits more from something with more power( voltage) like a otl tube amp or speaker amp


----------



## Soori007

In that case, may be in the future I should go with Woo Audio WA7


----------



## iXpertMan

I was just looking around ebay to find a good deal on this Aune T1, when I stumbled across HifiMeDiy Sabre USB DAC and though it was some kind of a mistake, because this device cost just around 30£, where as the Aune T1 costs around 130£. I checked the components and they were very similar, sure the HifiMeDiy lacks the extra analog inputs and outputs, and the tube amp, but its so small. I then had a read of some HeadFi posts to find-out if the sound quality of this device was good, and the reviews confirm this.
   
  I look at this small HifiMeDiy PCB and then I look at the Aune T1, which is much bigger and seems to have more components, and I don't understand how can you achieve the same audio quality with what appears to be much less components and a smaller price tag?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





ixpertman said:


> *...sure the HifiMeDiy lacks the extra analog inputs and outputs, and the tube amp...*
> 
> I look at this small HifiMeDiy PCB and then I look at the Aune T1, which is much bigger and seems to have more components, and I don't understand how can you achieve the same audio quality with what appears to be much less components and a smaller price tag?


 
   
  Dude you pretty much answered your own question. T1 is a tube DAC with solid state amp. If you break the T1 into smaller components you notice that it has power cord, transformer, detachable USB cable, solid state amp, volume control, stock tube... Amps get warm so it's good to have some empty space inside the unit. If you only need DAC and don't care about tube rolling + those extra components, then HMD seems like a nice deal. There are so many options for different budgets and needs.
   
  In addition, this is not the only small DAC out there or even the smallest. uDAC is also relatively small and then there are those USB stick DACs. DragonFly products, for example, can have DAC / preamp / headphone amp in a single USB stick. They use this same Sabre chip technology, which enables very small size. I personally like it when my headphone amp/DAC has some physical size and nicely glowing tubes 
   
  One thing is for sure... If you are looking for a DAC only, Sabre ES9023 chip for 30£ seems like a awesome deal! T1 has BurrBrown PCM1793 conversion chip, but I don't know how it compares to the Sabre.


----------



## SanJulesSur

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Text position and getter suggests 60's Mullard (more likely IEC than shield logo). This being said I actually think it's Mullard, Blackburn made GE tube (maybe from 1969): http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-Pair-of-Mullard-Gold-Pin-6922-Tubes-/370696978125
> 
> https://www.tubeworld.com/6922.htm#6922Mullard
> https://www.tubeworld.com/6dj8.htm#6DJ8MULL60
> ...


 

 Thanks Salvatore!

 I enjoyed reading the links to tubeworld as well and reading more about the tube descriptions.  It certainly fits the description on that site in terms of sound.  I was just curious since so far it's my favorite tube and would like to have a backup or maybe step up to higher Mullards someday.


----------



## SanJulesSur

Quote: 





tjunky said:


> thanks! now I kinda regret not getting this amp. Have you tried the O2 amps? if so how does it compare?


 
   
  I can't say I've experience with the O2 amps.  However I was looking into getting either the Schiit Magni/Modi stack or the O2 before stumbling on this thread and eventually deciding on the T1. Instead. 

 Based on what I read before here http://www.head-fi.org/t/642401/comparison-and-review-magni-modi-vs-o2-odac it seems like more or less the Schiit stack and the O2/ODAC are even. The Schiit stack winning out because it's of better value.  But I've listened to the magni/modi and I honestly feel the DAC and amp section on the T1 is much better and comparable to higher amps.
   
  Plus you get to have added fun with tube rolling


----------



## Soori007

How much Voltage output can we expect from Aune T1 when connected with Beyerdynamics T1 600 Ohms headphone. Are anybody facing issues with the Aune T1 when connected with higher impedance headphones?


----------



## iXpertMan

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Dude you pretty much answered your own question.






   
  Yes I know that I pointed-out the difference between the two, but what I am trying to say is that it seems as though the HMD has all the expensive components in it, which are just as good as those in the Aune T1. It has a decent DAC, the USB controller is the exact same, after that it just leaves the AMPS (which I can't find, same or not?), the tube itself (extra 20$?), the other electronic components and ports aren't the expensive parts. The body looks nice, costs another 20$? Therefore I am not sure if that 100 difference is justifiable, I mean only in terms of audio, of-course in terms of appeal and connectivity the Aune T1 is better.
   
  Also would be be possible to use the HMD as a DAC, so that I can plug it into another AMP, and only then connect it to the headphones? (double amplification good or bad?)


----------



## MrEleventy

soori007 said:


> How much Voltage output can we expect from Aune T1 when connected with Beyerdynamics T1 600 Ohms headphone. Are anybody facing issues with the Aune T1 when connected with higher impedance headphones?




I've ran dt880/600 ohms from the Aune T1 before, it works just fine but I didn't find them to pair well. I don't think the Beyer T1 would as well since Beyer T1 is bright like the 880s and the amp on the Aune T1 is bright too.



ixpertman said:


> Yes I know that I pointed-out the difference between the two, but what I am trying to say is that it seems as though the HMD has all the expensive components in it, which are just as good as those in the Aune T1. It has a decent DAC, the USB controller is the exact same, after that it just leaves the AMPS (which I can't find, same or not?), the tube itself (extra 20$?), the other electronic components and ports aren't the expensive parts. The body looks nice, costs another 20$? Therefore I am not sure if that 100 difference is justifiable, I mean only in terms of audio, of-course in terms of appeal and connectivity the Aune T1 is better.
> 
> Also would be be possible to use the HMD as a DAC, so that I can plug it into another AMP, and only then connect it to the headphones? (double amplification good or bad?)




HMD is just a dac, no amp portion. The 3.5mm jack is a line out for other amps.


----------



## lolspops

Ok guys, I have two headphones options with the T1 and am asking for your thoughts. Currently, I have an unopened DT 880 Pro with me however, I could get the 600 Ohm Premiums for an addition $40. Is the T1 able to sufficiently power the 600 Ohms or should I stick with the Pros? Personally, I like the aesthetics, the looser clamp, and the straight cable of the Premiums more to justify the $40 but if they sound worse then it may not be worth it.


----------



## MrEleventy

lolspops said:


> Ok guys, I have two headphones options with the T1 and am asking for your thoughts. Currently, I have an unopened DT 880 Pro with me however, I could get the 600 Ohm Premiums for an addition $40. Is the T1 able to sufficiently power the 600 Ohms or should I stick with the Pros? Personally, I like the aesthetics, the looser clamp, and the straight cable of the Premiums more to justify the $40 but if they sound worse then it may not be worth it.




Read my post above yours.


----------



## lolspops

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Yes, but I am 100% set on the T1 as well as the DT 880; just deciding if I should keep the Pros, or get the Premiums. You said that they don't pair well but does that mean they sound worse than the Pros with this DAC/Amp?


----------



## MrEleventy

lolspops said:


> Yes, but I am 100% set on the T1 as well as the DT 880, just deciding if I should keep the Pros, or get the Premiums. You said that they don't pair well but does that mean they sound worse than the Pros with this DAC/Amp?




The difference in ohms between the 880s are very minor. And the difference between the pros and prems are cosmetic thus the 250 pro and 600 prem should sound pretty much the same. Graphs show the 600 ohms being smoother treble wise. The above comment wasn't meant to discourage you, it was just meant to let you know that they power the DT880/600s just fine, just doesn't synergize well. They don't pair well because it's a bright headphone with a bright amp so it exacerbates sibilant recordings so if you're sensitive to treble, you wouldn't like the outcome. But with that said, you can always use the lineout and connect a warmer amp to the T1, which I have done myself.


----------



## lolspops

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Alright, I understood beforehand that when paired together that they would be very bright but it won't affect me.


----------



## Magirush

I got the amperexes, and haven't been able to test completely properly due to ear difficulties.  Could be water in the ear, clogged eustachian tubes or something like that.  And of course it must happen when new audio stuff comes, right?
   
  Anyway I got a chance to do some listening and the amperexes are good but not entirely what I was expecting.  Of coarse, it could be because they're orange label and not orange globe?  Not sure, but here are my impressions so far:
  Stock tube has really good upper mids.  Really very good female vocals, although I do feel like they're positioned too far to the sides.  Slightly lacking on lower mids, but bass impact is pretty good.  Not as good as pioneer equipment, but I think that must be a tube thing. 
  Anyway the amperex orange label PQs are not as far wide to the side, soundstage wise.  And they definitely tone down the sibilance that I was getting through my bright yamaha speakers.  The catch is that I don't feel female vocals are produced as clearly, but it's still very enjoyable to listen too (perhaps even more so, these tubes just seem higher quality).  The soundstage also seems a bit close to the head.
   
  Still, I'm definitely going with the orange labels for speaker usage.  I'm still a bit divided over headphone usage, though: orange labes are like a warm blanket, eh 6922 is very piercing and engaging.
   
  On a different note, how do you guys travel with your t1?  Do you put it back in the original box in a suitcase?  My amperexes came in this adorable little canadian box which I think I may use for my tubes while traveling.


----------



## MrEleventy

The slight loss in clarity for vocals is probably due to the amperex having warmers mids and slightly rolled off highs. Maybe try telefunken for similar stage but more neutral signature. it's a hq 6922 with normal soundstage. I don't travel with my great but I've seen ppl pack stuff in pelican case. pricey but good looking


----------



## CoiL

Anyone willing to try this tube? -> CVC E88CC goldpin
http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/CVC-E88CC-GOLDPIN-TUBE-VALVE-NOS-WE-SHIP-WORLDWIDE-WITH-TRACKING-NUMBER-/190698500064?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Tubes&hash=item2c66842fe0&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_923
   
  43$ is pretty good price for goldpin E88CC if it sounds great but couldn`t find any info on those tubes.


----------



## MrEleventy

it looks a little too new to be nos. might just be new stock.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





magirush said:


> I got a chance to do some listening and the amperexes are good but not entirely what I was expecting.  Of coarse, it could be because they're orange label and not orange globe?
> 
> Anyway the amperex orange label PQs are not as far wide to the side, soundstage wise.  And they definitely tone down the sibilance that I was getting through my bright yamaha speakers.  The catch is that I don't feel female vocals are produced as clearly, but it's still very enjoyable to listen too (perhaps even more so, these tubes just seem higher quality).  The soundstage also seems a bit close to the head.
> 
> ...


 
   
  Too bad you're not entirely happy with your new tubes. I also have those "newer" orange PQs, but they don't have similar sound signature you're describing. I think they are great for female vocals and also the sound stage is definitely better as compared to EH (wide, deep and spherical). I agree they are warmer, but they still manage to maintain good clarity. I haven't noticed too much differences between the 70's orange print amperexes. How is the white label PQ? I recall it to have stronger more balanced triode readings?
   
  I carry my T1 safely in the original box. It's great compact box to travel with.


----------



## Magirush

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Too bad you're not entirely happy with your new tubes. I also have those "newer" orange PQs, but they don't have similar sound signature you're describing. I think they are great for female vocals and also the sound stage is definitely better as compared to EH (wide, deep and spherical). I agree they are warmer, but they still manage to maintain good clarity. I haven't noticed too much differences between the 70's orange print amperexes. How is the white label PQ? I recall it to have stronger more balanced triode readings?
> 
> I carry my T1 safely in the original box. It's great compact box to travel with.


 

 Well, I did more listening to the amperex orange labels (they're both orange labels actually, the one is just really faded so it looks white), and I'm actually very satisfied.
  As I said, they sound very good with my speakers.  And the headphones also sound great- if I had to choose one tube for the headphones I'd also go with the orange label.  When I stop analyzing the differences too much, the orange labels are much more enjoyable to listen too.  And they produce female vocals pretty well, perhaps better depending on if you don't like the sharp upper mids. 
   
  One other thing that pleasantly surprised me about the aune is that it doesn't make mp3s sound really bad( To a certain extent- less than 192 kbps and it's going to sound pretty bad).  Listening from pioneer equipment through to my speakers, I can clearly hear the difference between 320 kbps and wav in the soundstage.  However, with the aune, those things seem to be smoothed over in an analog sort of way, which might be because of the tube.  I can still hear the difference in certain parts of a track, but in general mp3s sound better.  
   
  To be clear, that's not an insult.  Usually it's regarded as good if an audio product reveals problems in your files, but this is much better to listen to.  It still shows the details, but not in an unpleasant way.  Of coarse, that could also be because of the orange labels which I'm coming to really like.
   
  Anyway, I may try some other tube at some point down the road when bored, but I'm pretty satisfied right now.


----------



## Salvatore

Yeah I think the biggest downside of these orange prints is the lack of clarity. They are transparent, but not as sharp as the most revealing tubes. In the end it comes to the headphone synergy and the balance between analytical and musical sound. I've also found that same tubes don't necessarily work so well with both headphones and speakers. It's actually nice to have different sounding tubes. Gives you greater possibility to tweak sound for different systems.


----------



## Enuma-elis

It took me a little of time, but I made very wallet-friendly tube-rolling. I've got 3 PCC88 types and Tesla E88CC. I'm very impressed with this one: http://www.tubes.rs/Tubes/NOS/Audio/PreTriodes/ECC88/PCC88_EI_Yugoslavia/PCC88_EI_Yugoslavia.htm#prettyPhoto . Natural, detailed, good soundstage, doesn't exaggerate in any aspect. Tesla E88CC is sweet, detailed tube, but certainly lacks soundstage. Tesla PCC88 is not bad, but a little boomy and unnatural. Mullard PCC88 was the biggest disappointment. That tube is just boring.  Not sure why, but with my cans and music, it sucks. So, if you can get PCC88 EI Yugoslavia for a good price, try it for sure!


----------



## CoiL

> Tesla PCC88 is not bad, but a little boomy and unnatural.


 
  Exactly which Telsa PCC88 you have? White or yellow label? 37 or 32 marking? I have 32 marking yellow label Czechoslovakia and it`s nowhere near boomy and unnatural. It`s very good tube for classical music imo.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> Exactly which Telsa PCC88 you have? White or yellow label? 37 or 32 marking? I have 32 marking yellow label Czechoslovakia and it`s nowhere near boomy and unnatural. It`s very good tube for classical music imo.


 

 I've got 6 of them. Yellow/orange label 32 marking, cross swords. It's good tube, has more space than E88CC gold pins, but it is not as smooth and somewhat not as "tight". Yes, Brooklyn Riders playing Phillip Glass sounds nice, but not as nice as EI. Will do some more listening to Tesla's later. I'm stuck with EI sound now.


----------



## Levaix

Hey there! I've had my Aune T1 for a few months now, it sounds great. I have two questions that maybe somebody can answer.
   
  1.) My little clear protectors are all banged up and loose. One of them actually broke when I first installed it. Has anyone found a more durable replacement? I still have the extra set I can install if not.
   
  2.) I have a set of Ultrasone Signature Pros. Recommended tube? I remember someone said something about a specific Mullard. The Amperex 7308 also looks extremely interesting, and I might end up going with that. I'm really looking to further open up the soundstage and take a little fuzz out of the sound (my FiiO E17 actually has a little bit cleaner sound, just not the depth).


----------



## lolspops

Another question for you guys: can I have say, both USB and RCA IN connected so that when I want to use the tube I use the USB connection and when I don't I switch to Line In, all while the machine stays on? Even though I am not going to using the tube when gaming, will it still wear it simply because it's connected?


----------



## jipan

I completely agree on this.... Lot of my 128 kbps (they are old songs I like) and some bad recorded musics sounded really bad on Aune T1, worse than on FiiO E10. Aune T1 really merciless on bad recorded songs...
  Quote: 





magirush said:


> One other thing that pleasantly surprised me about the aune is that it doesn't make mp3s sound really bad( To a certain extent-* less than 192 kbps and it's going to sound pretty bad*).  Listening from pioneer equipment through to my speakers, I can clearly hear the difference between 320 kbps and wav in the soundstage.  However, with the aune, those things seem to be smoothed over in an analog sort of way, which might be because of the tube.  I can still hear the difference in certain parts of a track, but in general mp3s sound better.
> To be clear, that's not an insult.  Usually it's regarded as good if an audio product reveals problems in your files, but this is much better to listen to.  *It still shows the details, but not in an unpleasant way*.  Of coarse, that could also be because of the orange labels which I'm coming to really like.


----------



## SanJulesSur

Quote: 





levaix said:


> Hey there! I've had my Aune T1 for a few months now, it sounds great. I have two questions that maybe somebody can answer.
> 
> 1.) My little clear protectors are all banged up and loose. One of them actually broke when I first installed it. Has anyone found a more durable replacement? I still have the extra set I can install if not.
> 
> 2.) I have a set of Ultrasone Signature Pros. Recommended tube? I remember someone said something about a specific Mullard. The Amperex 7308 also looks extremely interesting, and I might end up going with that. I'm really looking to further open up the soundstage and take a little fuzz out of the sound (my FiiO E17 actually has a little bit cleaner sound, just not the depth).


 
   
  1) Not sure what you can do with the protectors. They are a bit fragile but i found by gently squeezing the bottom together while removing and inserting them helps them come off easily. Still on my first set, hope they don't break. You can just leave them off if there's no kids or pets roaming around maybe?
   
  2) Salvatore posted a quick summary of the tubes he owned. It's a great place to start.
   
  Quote: 





salvatore said:


> *From my collection:*
> 
> *Best tubes:* Amperex 7308 PQ white label, Telefunken 7DJ8, Amperex OG 6DJ8
> 
> ...


 
   
  There's also these links on tubeworld that have great descriptions of the various tubes that he also posted.
  Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Text position and getter suggests 60's Mullard (more likely IEC than shield logo). This being said I actually think it's Mullard, Blackburn made GE tube (maybe from 1969): http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-Pair-of-Mullard-Gold-Pin-6922-Tubes-/370696978125
> 
> https://www.tubeworld.com/6922.htm#6922Mullard
> https://www.tubeworld.com/6dj8.htm#6DJ8MULL60
> ...


 
  My favorite tube so far are the mullards posted above^ they really match well with my hifiman he400s and he500s on the Aune T1.
   
  if you read the previous posts the other members have posted many of their opinions on other tubes as well. worth a read.


----------



## inphu510n

levaix said:


> 1.) My little clear protectors are all banged up and loose. One of them actually broke when I first installed it. Has anyone found a more durable replacement? I still have the extra set I can install if not.




Do a search on eBay (worldwide) for "tube guard". I'm personally going with the matte silver color to match the ring on the volume knob.
They won't sit securely in the post holes of the stock acrylic guard though. It'll be loose. I'm planning to see what I can do about that.


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> Do a search on eBay (worldwide) for "tube guard". I'm personally going with the matte silver color to match the ring on the volume knob.
> They won't sit securely in the post holes of the stock acrylic guard though. It'll be loose. I'm planning to see what I can do about that.


 
  I dont think the tube guards on ebay would fit this.  If you find one that fits, provide the link!  Thanks!


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> I dont think the tube guards on ebay would fit this.  If you find one that fits, provide the link!  Thanks!


 
  Some of them advertise "6922" in the auction title.
  Of course that doesn't guarantee that they will but I'm confident enough that I spent $10 on one.


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> Some of them advertise "6922" in the auction title.
> Of course that doesn't guarantee that they will but I'm confident enough that I spent $10 on one.


 
  the guards fit the size of the tube, but the holes dont look like they would line up for the aune t1


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> the guards fit the size of the tube, but the holes dont look like they would line up for the aune t1


 
  Oh definitely not. I'm thinking there's something I can fabricate to take care of that issue.


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> Oh definitely not. I'm thinking there's something I can fabricate to take care of that issue.


 
  Please post photos with what you come up with.  Could be very cool.  Good luck!


----------



## antonymous1991

Hey guys! What I've gathered from scavenging through so many pages of details is that the Amperex series is liked by most of you. I'm confused between the different variants of this tube. I saw the following tubes online -
   
1) Amperex PQ 7308 E188CC Gold Pin (Holland made) for 50 $ 
  2) A pair of Amperex 6DJ8 ECC88 orange globe ( Holland made) for 35 $
   
  The white label 7308 would be out of my budget 
   
  Which of these 2 do you find to be better. Are they worth it at this price?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> Please post photos with what you come up with.  Could be very cool.  Good luck!


 
  Hmmm, my mind went to WOOD! I think I`m going to make one from Oak but not sure I will keep it because I tend to change tubes depending on music style.


----------



## idanhakia

Hey!
  I am thinking to buy this lovely looking amp. 
  I was wondering how it will work with sensative custom IEM like unique melody miracle? any idea?
   
  Thanks


----------



## Levaix

Thanks for the replies so far, guys. So I think I'm probably going to go with the Amperex 7308. Upscale Audio has them in stock. Can I use the "driver grade" with the Aune? Otherwise I'll just get the platinum grade, and actually I might end up doing that anyways.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





antonymous1991 said:


> 1) Amperex PQ 7308 E188CC Gold Pin (Holland made) for 50 $
> 2) A pair of Amperex 6DJ8 ECC88 orange globe ( Holland made) for 35 $


 
   
  Quote: 





levaix said:


> Thanks for the replies so far, guys. So I think I'm probably going to go with the Amperex 7308. Upscale Audio has them in stock. Can I use the "driver grade" with the Aune? Otherwise I'll just get the platinum grade, and actually I might end up doing that anyways.


 
   
  I'd say $15 tops for 70's orange label. For the older ones you usually need to pay some extra. 7308 is awesome but ultimately it's up to the buyer whether it's worth $50+. I remember somebody here getting the driver grade, but can't recall how it all worked out for him. Try searching "driver grade" and ask the guy personally. Or even better ask upscale audio. I think most people have gone with cryoed platinum. There are at least white, orange and green 7308 Amperexes out there. Some hardcore collectors want the white USN version because it was for the navy.


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> I'd say $15 tops for 70's orange label. For the older ones you usually need to pay some extra. 7308 is awesome but ultimately it's up to the buyer whether it's worth $50+. I remember somebody here getting the driver grade, but can't recall how it all worked out for him. Try searching "driver grade" and ask the guy personally. Or even better ask upscale audio. I think most people have gone with cryoed platinum. There are at least white, orange and green 7308 Amperexes out there. Some hardcore collectors want the white USN version because it was for the navy.


 
  Where are you able to find orange label for $15?  I've been looking all over and haven't found a price close to that.  Thanks so much.
  -AudioFrog


----------



## Salvatore

Single tubes are harder to find but ebay is full of doubles where the price is around $15 per tube. I bought one orange print from quartzacoustic for around $18 and then one quadruple set from ebay. Those were about $10 each. Ebay all the way. You just need patience and luck. Throw in some bids. Occasionally you get very good deals.


----------



## MrEleventy

salvatore said:


> Single tubes are harder to find but ebay is full of doubles where the price is around $15 per tube. I bought one orange print from quartzacoustic for around $18 and then one quadruple set from ebay. Those were about $10 each. Ebay all the way. You just need patience and luck. Throw in some bids. Occasionally you get very good deals.




+1. I just picked up a pair of amperex orange globe for 15 each shipped as back ups. Most of the tubes that I've owned, I got through eBay, spending on average, 15 each. The most expensive one I have, I bought NOS from vacuumtubes.net for 85. That one skews the average just a tad.  Just do a search every few days and hit watch on the ones that looks good and wait til they're about to end. If the price is reasonable, bid away. If not, just drop it and repeat. Another tip is to watch used but tested high tubes. A whole lot cheaper than NOS. A great way to audition a tube's signature sound without breaking the bank.


----------



## CoiL

Got my NOS NIB perfect condition Siemens PCC189 today. Although I haven`t burnt in this tube yet, I have to say that this tube is very good. Imho it`s better than my GAE coded Amperex PQ OG. It has tinybit smoother highs and soundstage is littlebit pushed further away @ center point compared to Amperex GAE PQ OG. Compared to Ultron PCC189 it has littlebit more sparkle in highs and soundstage is more towards Λ shaped than upside-down U shaped. Ultron PCC189 & Amperex GAC OG are still littlebit better with alternative rock/metal/progressive/jazz but it`s really good tube for every genre, no shortcomings with atmospheric electronic music either. Recommend to get this tube. Luckily I got it only for 10.5€ (post included) but there are some slightly higher priced deals available atm. Definitely worth-to-get tube 
   
Also got my Sovtek 6922`s and first impressions felt these being quite same sounding as 6922EH. There might be little difference in air & transparency but got to burn and compare them more.
So, these are good tubes for atmospheric electronic music.
   
And last, got 2x Brimar PCC189 (made in england) too... not sure about these yet but they sound good unlike my other Brimar`s that suck.


----------



## lolspops

Quote: 





lolspops said:


> Another question for you guys: can I have say, both USB and RCA IN connected so that when I want to use the tube I use the USB connection and when I don't I switch to Line In, all while the machine stays on? Even though I am not going to using the tube when gaming, will it still wear it simply because it's connected?


 
  Can I please get a response for this? May seem like a simple question but I do not possess much of the technical knowledge some of you have.


----------



## Levaix

Quote: 





lolspops said:


> Can I please get a response for this? May seem like a simple question but I do not possess much of the technical knowledge some of you have.


 
  What you are asking SHOULD be just fine. Not sure if using line in will wear out the tube or not, but possibly, just because it's still on.


----------



## Salvatore

I'm pretty sure if the tube is glowing it's wearing. Not a good idea to let them idle. What about removing the tube?
   
  E: Or use your cheapest tubes. They are like light bulbs after all. Not going to last foverer.


----------



## White Lotus

The tube will still remain warmed, and "ready", it just won't have signal passing through it.

 It will therefore still take a toll on the lifespan of the tube - _if_ that was your primary concern.


----------



## inphu510n

coil said:


> Got my NOS NIB perfect condition Siemens PCC189 today. Although I haven`t burnt in this tube yet, I have to say that this tube is very good. Imho it`s better than my GAE coded Amperex PQ OG. It has tinybit smoother highs and soundstage is littlebit pushed further away @ center point compared to Amperex GAE PQ OG. Compared to Ultron PCC189 it has littlebit more sparkle in highs and soundstage is more towards Λ shaped than upside-down U shaped. Ultron PCC189 & Amperex GAC OG are still littlebit better with alternative rock/metal/progressive/jazz but it`s really good tube for every genre, no shortcomings with atmospheric electronic music either. Recommend to get this tube. Luckily I got it only for 10.5€ (post included) but there are some slightly higher priced deals available atm.




Whoa, from what I've read around the web the 6ES8 are not very good replacements for 6DJ8 in terms of audio quality.
You're saying that the Siemens 7ES8 is better than the 6DJ8 Amperex OG?
I'm made even more curious about this because I just received a Siemens 6ES8 and haven't tried it yet.


----------



## Salvatore

Very nice post from Lyr tube rolling thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/549508/schiit-lyr-the-tube-rolling-thread/7725#post_9535339


----------



## lolspops

Thanks for the replies, finally, there wouldn't be any negative effects if I were to remove the tube after I have switched to line in but remained on?


----------



## Salvatore

Not sure about this. I always turn the unit off when changing tubes. If you know you're about to do some gaming take the tube off before powering the T1.


----------



## penmarker

I don't know about you guys, but tubes should have 5,000 to 10,000 hours in their lifetime. Physically pulling it out and pushing it in constantly might cause undue wear worse than just using it. But that's just me.
  Plus your fingers/skin has certain oils that can bond onto the glass surface, couple that with the tube's heat, it might damage the tubes. Try touching a halogen light bulb bare fingered, the bulb will burn/blow faster.


----------



## Salvatore

Yeah depends on the tube. I sure wouldn't want to burn 7308 Amperex if I wasn't listening music. $15 tubes are completely different story. I don't recommend unnecessary unplugging either. I only remove tubes when rolling new ones in. Practically this is when comparing new tubes or taking specific tube for new specific album or listening session. Orange print is plugged in almost all the time. I already dropped and broke one Ultron while juggling tubes. For heavy rollers I recommend socket savers.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> Plus your fingers/skin has certain oils that can bond onto the glass surface, couple that with the tube's heat, it might damage the tubes. Try touching a halogen light bulb bare fingered, the bulb will burn/blow faster.


 
  Imo this is BS. I`ve read about this subject and best real world experience example was from one radio repair-guy who was working with tubes over 60 years and he had very old tubes that were literally like soaked in "finger-oil" and it made no difference in sound or age of tube.
   
  Salvatore, let that Ultron RIP. Lucky you it wasn`t some expensive Amperex 7308.


----------



## Soori007

Do anyone have experience with Telefunken E88CC using with Aune T1? Does it really have superior sound quality? Can you hear the difference when compared with other tubes? I can say it is good but I could not make out the difference with EH6922. Thanks.


----------



## MrEleventy

I don't have a 6dj8 but rather a 7es8 variant of the telefunken. It's very similar to the 6922eh on a quick listen but it has a more normal spherical soundstage unlike the abnormal oblong shaped stage of the 6922eh. Other than that, I don't notice a huge difference.


----------



## Salvatore

Interesting video about vacuum tubes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDvF89Bh27Y (again from the Lyr tube rolling thread)


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





soori007 said:


> Do anyone have experience with Telefunken E88CC using with Aune T1? Does it really have superior sound quality? Can you hear the difference when compared with other tubes? I can say it is good but I could not make out the difference with EH6922. Thanks.


 
   
  Now that you mentioned it they are indeed very similar sounding (transparent) tubes. Tele corrects some of the faults EH has. Better imaging, resolution and bass in my opinion. Vocals seem to be more forward with EH. Hard pair to compare. My Tele is 7DJ8 type.


----------



## Salvatore

Just a few words for you guys.
   
  I like to think that all my tubes has this T1 sound. They differ in sound stage / imaging, some have exaggerated bass and others feel more natural. Some have more forward mids than the others etc. In the end it comes to fine tuning the T1 to match your headphones rather than finding the ultimately best tube.
   
  Best tubes are naturally better in all aspects than the worst, but some might prefer Voshkod rockets over 7308 Amperexes, for example, because of the sweet lush intimate forward presentation of the rocket. The differences are not huge because this is a tube DAC with SS amp. I think people should purchase tubes in order to adjust the sound. So before buying any expensive tubes ask yourself what you want to improve / change in your current setup. If you are happy with your tubes there's no need to get into the rolling business. Critical comparison also means best quality source and good headphones.
   
  We also tend to overemphasize and exaggerate in our reviews just to get the message to people. This of course creates hype. It's also hard to do extensive 1 vs 1 comparison if you have lots of tubes (think of Coil for example). When tired or sick everything can suddenly start sounding the same. Just do it for fun and the reward is greater. And remember to burn in the tubes (especially NOS). I've done my share of hasty impressions by judging tubes before burning them in (EH, Valvo etc.). I admit there is probably too much tube discussion here, especially considering the topic of the thread, but it's just us happy T1 owners having good time with our purchases. It's really fun and worth the money invested to challenge your senses and try finding differences between different tubes. Just remember that the T1 is the lead star here not the tubes! For people who are not sure whether some expensive tube is improvement enough or not, try getting tubes from well known manufacturer with good prints and visible factory codes. Such tubes can have tremendous resell value and you might even make a buck or two. I'm pretty sure ebay has these bargain tube hunters who buy big hauls, measure them and resell individually / in matched pairs. Lots of fakes too = selling used as NOS.


----------



## buestad

Interesting post Salvatore!
   
  I was almost hooked on tube rolling, but I was able to pull my self out of it 
   
  I realized that the differences between the tubes was so subtle that I really had to concentrate 100% to enjoy these differences. As my setup (T1 + K550) is at work, concentrating 100% about sound is not possible. So I'm happy with my "Rocket" and use it 95% of the time. Sometimes I pop in my Phillips PCC189 for stripped down acostic music and the 6922EH for electronic, just for fun.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





buestad said:


> I realized that the differences between the tubes was so subtle that I really had to concentrate 100% to enjoy these differences.


 
   
  True. I just purchased standard spring foam ear pads to my K702 anniversaries and this mod really changes the sound significantly.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Just a few words for you guys.
> 
> I like to think that all my tubes has this T1 sound. They differ in sound stage / imaging, some have exaggerated bass and others feel more natural. Some have more forward mids than the others etc. In the end it comes to fine tuning the T1 to match your headphones rather than finding the ultimately best tube.
> 
> ...


 
   
   
  One of the most sensible post I read in this thread 
   
  My Aune T1 is gone ( upgraditis touched me one more time) now but I still recommend this little dac/amp as a very very good piece of equipment.  I really wanted to try something different ( Jan Meier's corda jazz indeed ) to drive my K501 or my HD580 . The senn really benefits from my new amp but my AKG doesn't and sounded very well with the little added wamth of T1.  For my Ultrasone Sig pro , I still can say that Aune T1 is really a very good companion and I will have to spend much more money in my future dac to recover  Aune T1's Musicality although corda jazz offers better control and cleaner overall sound to my SP.


----------



## Paspie

Well, remember this?
  Quote: 





paspie said:


> Well guys, it appears I have a rather serious problem on my hands. This is on the fourth day of operation. My unit has started to sound extremely distorted, the audio is barely discernible. There's no clues as to why on the case, the tube appears to light up as it should, but I've tried unplugging it and vice versa, but to no avail. I haven't opened it up and have no desire to, because it may void a warranty, so I'll have to send it back and hopefully get a replacement. Bit of a pain in the bottom, because it was from Hong Kong, but it has to be done. I'll have to revert to my laptop's onboard audio for now.


 
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> Sounds like tube gone bad. Try another tube and you get the answer. If problem stays, ask for replacement unit.


 
  I just put the supposedly broken tube back in and for some reason, it works just fine. I had already ordered another one as a would-be replacement, but I guess the existing valve simply needed a 'rest' of sorts (its probably got something to do with the pins being active for so long; I tend to have it on for most of the day).


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Just a few words for you guys.
> 
> I like to think that all my tubes has this T1 sound. They differ in sound stage / imaging, some have exaggerated bass and others feel more natural. Some have more forward mids than the others etc. In the end it comes to fine tuning the T1 to match your headphones rather than finding the ultimately best tube.
> 
> ...


 
  Great wise words! 
 Atm I`m really happy with my modded HD-681 mkII + T1 but it`s good to have selection on different tubes when I get chance to try another cans. Since I`m rational-thinker, I won`t look @ high-end cans but there are some options that might make T1 sound even better with sensible price. One I can tell for sure and recommend to everyone who are on low budget - T1 + HD-681 mkII are like love from the first sight. Imho they pair very well and for the money you get that gear - just awsome deal!


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





coil said:


> One I can tell for sure and recommend to everyone who are on low budget - T1 + HD-681 mkII are like love from the first sight. Imho they pair very well and for the money you get that gear - just awsome deal!


 
   
   
  I heard recently to an Aune T1 + Takstar HI-2050 combo And I really can recommend it as a very very valuable combo too


----------



## MrEleventy

I love the hi2050s. Baby dt880s. They're my portable phones.


----------



## teb1013

salvatore said:


> Interesting video about vacuum tubes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDvF89Bh27Y (again from the Lyr tube rolling thread)




I remember the super serious voices of narrators like this one from my childhood days in the UK about the time this film was made. The film really shows how amazingly complex the assembly of the tubes we use was. No one in that factory could have known how rare and in demand those little tubes would be 1/2 century later!


----------



## teb1013

Salvatore your "few words" are a welcome dose of sanity!


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> I love the hi2050s. Baby dt880s. They're my portable phones.


 
   
   
  Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> I heard recently to an Aune T1 + Takstar HI-2050 combo And I really can recommend it as a very very valuable combo too


 
  Offtopic: I did research about those before buying HD-681 and seems that HD-681 mkII is better choice in means of sound if you are willing to make mkII mod + change pads.
  Also HD-681 is cheaper. As stock product Hi-2050 is good value.


----------



## hatefulsandwich

I'm interested in the T1 to use as a dac/amp combo mainly for headphones but possibly IEMs occasionally as well. Will I experience a lot of hiss if I use something like the Westone UM3x with the T1? I still don't fully understad how sensitivity and impedance work between amps and earphones and what the matching thereof should be, so apologies if this has already been answered.


----------



## White Lotus

With very sensitive IEMs, such as the UM3X, you will experience hiss when using this device as a DAC/Amp combo.


----------



## Sorrodje

I hadn't any hum or hiss with my musical fidelity eb50 plugged on my T1


----------



## MrEleventy

hatefulsandwich said:


> I'm interested in the T1 to use as a dac/amp combo mainly for headphones but possibly IEMs occasionally as well. Will I experience a lot of hiss if I use something like the Westone UM3x with the T1? I still don't fully understad how sensitivity and impedance work between amps and earphones and what the matching thereof should be, so apologies if this has already been answered.


I've paired the T1 with a few different pairs of IEMs. I didn't notice a hiss with them but I also wasn't looking for hiss either. On +0 db, I've used ATH-CKN70s, Sony MH1C, Ety HF5 & Ety Kids.


----------



## White Lotus

There is hiss with my UM3X, Westone 3, Thinksound MS01, and HiSound WD2. I've had two models of the T1, so it's not a faulty product.

 It's not deafening, but if you listen for it, it's there. 

 So, YMMV.


----------



## hatefulsandwich

I think I'm okay with a bit of hiss since you aren't really going to notice it when there's music playing. I have had my UM3Xes plugged into a source with such a bad noise floor that not listening to music was actually quite fatiguing, so I suppose I'm pretty wary of that.


----------



## White Lotus

Quote: 





hatefulsandwich said:


> you aren't really going to notice it when there's music playing.


 

 Exactly right. The noise floor is definitely manageable, and the "hiss" is mostly only noticeable when music isn't playing - unless the piece you're listening to has lots of silence!


----------



## CoiL

Got my NOS Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 yesterday, only for 13€ (post included). Btw, this is my first *E*CC189. Great tube like my other two Miniwatt-Dario PCC189`s and similiar to them. Got to burn it more but first impressions say it`s even better than other two. Certainly great overall tube for every genre but not sure yet for what genre it fits better. It`s with yellow markings, Miniwatt - ECC189 - Dario *© *3-3 and factory code: on top |X| (might be lX1) and under it ±2L3 (La Radiotechnique, Chartres, France). 

   
   
   
Other two Miniwatt-Darios I have are Holland made and probably very similiar to Amperex bugle boy`s (they might actually be BB`s under different label). Anyway they sound also very good and impressions about these can be found somewhere earlier in this thread.
   
And littlebit offtopic, some beat & rythm music: http://store.origamisound.com/album/gwidingwi-dema


----------



## Enuma-elis

Interesting offtopic. Not 100% my cup of tea, but I like it. Still looking for new music, so if you have a time, send more offtopics(or rather pm me). I"d like to hear something that I wouldn't personally search for. Btw- looking for some interesting rap/hip hop interprets... oldschool, alternative, weird etc. Very fancy Massive attack's album Mezzanine.


----------



## CoiL

Enuma, I have lots of new findings. If I have spare moment, will collect those links and send to you 
   
  Todays find (djent/metal): http://voicesfromthefuselage.bandcamp.com/


----------



## alrgeez

just ordered a t1 to pair with my grado sr60i. right now i have my eyes set on an Amperex orange globe. any other recommendations on a budget tube in the ~$20 range that i should try?
   
  edit: also, has anybody purchased a squaretrade warranty? i'm looking into it and its only $14-20 for 2-3 year warranty.


----------



## MrEleventy

alrgeez said:


> just ordered a t1 to pair with my grado sr60i. right now i have my eyes set on an Amperex orange globe. any other recommendations on a budget tube in the ~$20 range that i should try?
> 
> edit: also, has anybody purchased a squaretrade warranty? i'm looking into it and its only $14-20 for 2-3 year warranty.


joe had great results from the Russians when pairing with his magnums, you can give those a try.




coil said:


> And littlebit offtopic, some beat & rythm music:
> http://store.origamisound.com/album/gwidingwi-dema




 That was great stuff. I was trying out my newly aquired pair of Creative Aurvana Live being driven directly from the T1. Sounded great. Thx for the finds.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> Enuma, I have lots of new findings. If I have spare moment, will collect those links and send to you
> 
> Todays find (djent/metal): http://voicesfromthefuselage.bandcamp.com/


 

 Thx. I was just listening to Arvo Part, so it was an interesting change of sound.When I was younger, I used to listen to this type of metal.  Btw do you know french band Alcest?


----------



## CoiL

Heh, coincidence, Arvo Pärt is also Estonian like I am  About that band, I think when you were younger, there wasn`t this kind of sounding metal bands (at least I don`t know any from older period). Btw, the last song is really good for detection soundstage, bass, kick, brightness and male vocals: http://voicesfromthefuselage.bandcamp.com/track/t-e-e-s-o-e
   
  Thanks for mentioning Alcest, didn`t know this band but I like it already  Somewhy reminds me old Katationa albums + Type O Negative.


----------



## CoiL

> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Rolling my newer tubes atm and Siemens PCC189 is really great for this music!  Actually, I think it might be the best tube from my collection for electronic atmospheric music (with headphones, not sure about external speakers). It has very clear & airy sound and soundstage is littlebit smaller than 6922EH but imaging is better. Bass is tighter but doesn`t lose it`s smoothness. Very very enjoyable with this kind of music. Nym is also very enjoyable with this tube: http://music.ratsofnym.com/album/trembling-in-the-stone-a-charity-record I think this tube has better vocals. Highs aren`t so bright and mids are better than 6922EH.


----------



## backsideslappy

Hi kind folks,
   
  A few days ago, I received my DT 880s (250ohms) in the mail and have been putting some mileage on them ever since.  However, given I've been running straight from my laptop through a FiiO e17, or through a cowon j3/e17 I can't help but feel that I'm a bit shy on power to get anywhere near the best here.  I note the OP has said the beyers sound great with the T1 - and the price is certainly looking good to me, but I'm wondering if I'd see good cost/benefit by jumping up a tier or two and going for a Little Dot MkIII or a Schiit Valhalla or similar?  Given that the T1 has a DAC - that would seem somewhat of a bonus here, but as a reasonably new arrival on the audio scene I wonder if anybody has some guidance as to what differences I might expect to hear between what I currently have, the T1, and those amps that sit perhaps a notch above the T1 on the pricing spectrum?
   
  Thanks!


----------



## teb1013

I just got my nos Amperex JAN 7308, green label from Upscale Audio. Although it is "driver" grade, it sounds very musical, an almost liquid sound. Even though I have only a couple of hours on it, it seems more refined than the 6922 EH that I have done much of my listening on. How much of this is a placebo effect, I will figure out as I burn the tube in. So far I am pleased. Incidentally this tube looks a bit smaller and the tube glow pattern is different than the EH tube. Coil you have talked about "critical" listening of your new tubes. How do you approach this?


----------



## CoiL

For critical listening, the most important thing is to be relaxed, rested ears and mind, after quiet morning after woken up properly + you have to have right mood to to do this. Seriously, sounds funny but it`s important if you wish to make difference in every detail. Second step is to choose proper audio (certain lenght clips to loop) for listening, from different genres, so first you could make selection if tube fits better for electronic, acoustic or metal/progressive music for example. After splitting tubes by music genre you can start to compare them head to head with music genre you select, again with certain lenght clips that have elements you need to compare.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Quote: 





coil said:


> Heh, coincidence, Arvo Pärt is also Estonian like I am  About that band, I think when you were younger, there wasn`t this kind of sounding metal bands (at least I don`t know any from older period). Btw, the last song is really good for detection soundstage, bass, kick, brightness and male vocals: http://voicesfromthefuselage.bandcamp.com/track/t-e-e-s-o-e
> 
> Thanks for mentioning Alcest, didn`t know this band but I like it already  Somewhy reminds me old Katationa albums + Type O Negative.


 

 Heh, I'm still pretty young. You're right not exactly this type of music, rather (often black)metal music with female vocals(there ia a few of this bands in my country). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yN7Ki0vc4T4 this is also interesting piece. Last good piece of metal, I've listen to was Aenima by Tool. BTW: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSQGVWmt1V8 this artist also sound amazing with T1, especially in the night, when everything else is quite...  
  Arvo Part is one of my most favorite minimalist, his music is so...delicate
   
   
  To be not-so-offtopic: Guys, I'm curious how many $$ have you spend on tubes for aune(if it's not a secret)?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> I just got my nos Amperex JAN 7308, green label from Upscale Audio. Although it is "driver" grade, it sounds very musical, an almost liquid sound. Even though I have only a couple of hours on it, it seems more refined than the 6922 EH that I have done much of my listening on. How much of this is a placebo effect, I will figure out as I burn the tube in. So far I am pleased.


 
   
  Gongratulations. There are definitely different tubes for different needs, but I've found the 7308 Amperex to be perfect combination of naturality and musicality (if that makes any sense). Very refined indeed and the bass feels accurate. Not the cheapest one to get spares though 
   
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> Second step is to choose proper audio (certain lenght clips to loop) for listening, from different genres, so first you could make selection if tube fits better for electronic, acoustic or metal/progressive music for example. After splitting tubes by music genre you can start to compare them head to head with music genre you select, again with certain lenght clips that have elements you need to compare.


 
   
  +1. I think one of the most important thing is to choose proper audio. You might need different tracks to evaluate different elements such as sound stage, bass, imaging, transparency etc. Many Michael Jackson songs are perfect for critical listening imo. They are just so nicely produced and have lots of small things going on at the same time. "Don't stop 'til you get enough" FLAC, for example, is a very nice track for such evaluation. I remember checking the wideness of sound stage by shaking my hands where I heard the sound of maracas (intro). Lots of small "bells and whistles" going on too, so it's great track to evaluate transparency.
   
   
  Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> To be not-so-offtopic: Guys, I'm curious how many $$ have you spend on tubes for aune(if it's not a secret)?


 
   
  I've probably spent around €200 on tubes. Definitely more than what I paid for the T1. It's been a fun ride but ultimately I only need few of my tubes. I'm not planning on spending on tubes anymore. I also got few great deals and, if wanted, could get my money back easily.


----------



## inphu510n

backsideslappy said:


> Hi kind folks,
> 
> A few days ago, I received my DT 880s (250ohms) in the mail and have been putting some mileage on them ever since.  However, given I've been running straight from my laptop through a FiiO e17, or through a cowon j3/e17 I can't help but feel that I'm a bit shy on power to get anywhere near the best here.  I note the OP has said the beyers sound great with the T1 - and the price is certainly looking good to me, but I'm wondering if I'd see good cost/benefit by jumping up a tier or two and going for a Little Dot MkIII or a Schiit Valhalla or similar?  Given that the T1 has a DAC - that would seem somewhat of a bonus here, but as a reasonably new arrival on the audio scene I wonder if anybody has some guidance as to what differences I might expect to hear between what I currently have, the T1, and those amps that sit perhaps a notch above the T1 on the pricing spectrum?
> 
> Thanks!


 
This will depend entirely on your budget. I have an LD MKII and plan on getting the MKIV SE. I don't have my Aune T1 yet but I can absolutely tell you that the LD will sound better. This is simply because you can roll so many more tube combinations through it. The tube DAC section of the T1 will color the sound and change some of the dynamics but not nearly as much as a purely tube driven amp will.
This is highly subjective as I haven't even heard one yet but from everything I've read, it's how it is.
I've spent a bunch of money rolling tubes in my LD and still I enjoy tinkering with it. Being able to buy a pack of 5 stellar sounding tubes that no one knew would work in the amp for under $20 shipped is a wonderful thing.


----------



## backsideslappy

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> This will depend entirely on your budget. I have an LD MKII and plan on getting the MKIV SE. I don't have my Aune T1 yet but I can absolutely tell you that the LD will sound better. This is simply because you can roll so many more tube combinations through it. The tube DAC section of the T1 will color the sound and change some of the dynamics but not nearly as much as a purely tube driven amp will.
> This is highly subjective as I haven't even heard one yet but from everything I've read, it's how it is.
> I've spent a bunch of money rolling tubes in my LD and still I enjoy tinkering with it. Being able to buy a pack of 5 stellar sounding tubes that no one knew would work in the amp for under $20 shipped is a wonderful thing.


 


 I think my budget is reasonably open ended (a ridiculous thing to say in the audio world where a turntable can cost as much as a family car) but with a view to pulling up short of the point of diminishing returns.  I don't want to spend twice as much for a 5% improvement in sound.  Well, I may want to, but I shouldn't. 

 So what I'm saying I suppose is that assuming a little dot MK whatever (I'm not sure what the best point in the product line I should be looking at at this stage, but I'm happy to be steered) will give me an appreciable increase in SQ, and possibly a better long term investment, then that's what I'll happily spend my money on (though in truth I'll probably get curious and buy a T1 eventually anyway).

 I do enjoy playing around with tubes - I've a history with playing inside guitar amps and have discovered the joys of NOS tube supplies.


----------



## qba3d

Hello Head-fiers!
Im quite new here and already asking for advice, but please forgive me

I was looking for a simple headphone DAC for my Senn 555 and Senn Momentum. I perfectly realise that soecially for momentum tube ampe is opposite to perfect but wanted to give it a go.

Got my 6922 upgraded version and.. Well its really nicely done, works well but with momentums is dark a bit and slightly just slightly muddy. What would be your advice on tube?I read here and there about Amperex but also found some info that Siemens tubes are bright. Is there anyone that happily found a decent pair for quite popular tyese days Momentums?

Thanks!

Q


----------



## MrEleventy

Telefunkens are bright. Amperex might not work for you unless you spring for 7308s.Unfortunately, if you find the eh6922 dark, there might not be a tube for you.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





qba3d said:


> Got my 6922 upgraded version and.. Well its really nicely done, works well but with momentums is dark a bit and slightly just slightly muddy. What would be your advice on tube?I read here and there about Amperex but also found some info that Siemens tubes are bright. Is there anyone that happily found a decent pair for quite popular tyese days Momentums?


 
   
  Could it be that T1 doesn't have the best synergy with your headphones? You can improve the muddiness by finding more refined tubes, but other than that I find the EH to be on the bright side. You probably shouldn't spend too much money on tubes since you can't get rid of that T1 sound. My advice would be FiiO E17. I found it to be quite bright + you have the possibility to EQ.
   
  E: Just for the sake of comparison. AKG K702 vs Momentum: http://www.headphone.com/learning-center/build-a-graph.php?graphID[0]=3951&graphID[1]=2621&graphID[2]=&graphID[3]=&scale=30&graphType=0&buttonSelection=Update+Graph I think these brighter sounding cans have better synergy with T1. Momentums seem to be quite flat before that 1KHz roll off and 1KHz seems to be right in the middle of the sweet midrange http://www.head-fi.org/g/i/726117/frequency-spectrum/sort/display_order/


----------



## viogator

Quote: 





qba3d said:


> Got my 6922 upgraded version and.. Well its really nicely done, works well but with momentums is dark a bit and slightly just slightly muddy. What would be your advice on tube?I read here and there about Amperex but also found some info that Siemens tubes are bright. Is there anyone that happily found a decent pair for quite popular tyese days Momentums?


 
   
  In fact, according to my taste Momentums are dark and muddy by themselves. So most probably it's not your Aune T1, but rather nature of your headphones and changing DACs / tubes... [pause] (I'll be dissected by the crowd after these words) won't change it drastically. I'd suggest to relax and try to get used to their sound.


----------



## viogator

I'd like to ask if anybody tried russian 6N1P with Aune T1. Compared to 6N23P the only serious difference is a twice bigger current on the grid required (600 mA for 6N1P versus 300 mA for 6N23P). Will Aune T1 be able to supply more power to the grid than expected?
   
  Thanks.


----------



## Levaix

Well, I got something...
   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Amperex-PQ-7308-twin-triode-tube-tested-great-E188CC-gold-pins-VR3-6DJ8-6922-/330940877426?ViewItem=&item=330940877426&nma=true&si=7yMfWxDbvurX%252BMX73lGlkON8ZTQ%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 What do you think? Should it be a good one? Looks to be genuine and not a fake.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





levaix said:


> Well, I got something...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Amperex-PQ-7308-twin-triode-tube-tested-great-E188CC-gold-pins-VR3-6DJ8-6922-/330940877426?ViewItem=&item=330940877426&nma=true&si=7yMfWxDbvurX%252BMX73lGlkON8ZTQ%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
> 
> What do you think? Should it be a good one? Looks to be genuine and not a fake.


 
  He has some serious tubes in his other inventory. My guess is he's legit.


----------



## qba3d

Hi,
   
  Thank You *MrEleventy* , *Salvatore* , *Viogator*!
   
  I thought that T1 will be slightly darkish and agree that Momentum's are slightly darkish, tho I don't exactly agree they are muddy( This is not Momentum thread so Ill just say that from normal Denon amp or Iphone 4 those play quite nicely and with very nice detail tho slightly darkish).
   
  I think like *viogator* said i will have to get used to this darkish tint, but I miss the resolution just a bit. I can EQ it if needed to compensate for momentum's, but say listening to Tron sound track shows some slight resolution problems to my ears and I was wandering if this is solvable with another tube or not? Maybe I just need to get used to this and sacrifice the details for grander more analog sound - and that is very lovely on some acoustic tracks!
   
  Thank You gentleman for info.
   
  q


----------



## Levaix

Quote: 





qba3d said:


> Hi,
> 
> Thank You *MrEleventy* , *Salvatore* , *Viogator*!
> 
> ...


 
  I don't think you should be losing resolution compared to straight from an iPhone. Not sure about Denon, though. If it were me I might try buy an inexpensive tube and see if the swap does anything big for you. I haven't heard the Momentum's as of yet, and I've been using Ultrasones with mine; it could be it's just not a great match.


----------



## MrEleventy

From my short time dealing with tubes, I find that warm cans just don't gel well with tubes if you like a neutral tone. It darkens it too much. With my set of m80s, I prefer it being driven from my e17/o2 than from the t1. My next purchase will probably be a odac or modi so I'll have a tube less desktop dac.


----------



## viogator

Quote: 





> I think like *viogator* said i will have to get used to this darkish tint, but I miss the resolution just a bit. I can EQ it if needed to compensate for momentum's, but say listening to Tron sound track shows some slight resolution problems to my ears and I was wandering if this is solvable with another tube or not? Maybe I just need to get used to this and sacrifice the details for grander more analog sound - and that is very lovely on some acoustic tracks!


 
  It's Sennheiser and most of the people acknowledge their rather dark sound (with the exception of the top of their HD product line probably), so it is normal and nothing to worry about. It is for certain that changing headphones will affect your experience in a most significant way. As for me, I returned my Momentums (rather due to a discomfort caused by their design) and continued with my AKG Q701, which are producing the most transparent and bright sound I ever heard (with a bit anemic bass you have to get used to as well). Tube rolling won't give you such a significant difference for sure.
   
  Btw, don't play tricks with yourself. Aune T1 doesn't give you an "analogue sound". It's just DAC with the hybrid amplifier and its single dual triode tube will just add some tint to your sound (as smaller as better your tube is) aside of its direct amplification role.
   
  Tubes matching headphones... gosh... it's a kind of religion. They will tell you there is the Supreme Being but won't be able to prove this fact or even explain the reason of that belief scientifically. If it's all about compensating of headphone's frequency response with specific tube's non-linear characteristics, it won't work as supposed. Anyway, welcome to audiophiles' sect, where everything is possible as far as your imagination extends. No offence meant, guys


----------



## antonymous1991

Hey guys,
   
   
   
   
   
  A quick question - Is the above pictured tube our revered 7308 gold pin. I'll pull the trigger on this one if it is.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> From my short time dealing with tubes, I find that warm cans just don't gel well with tubes if you like a neutral tone. It darkens it too much. With my set of m80s, I prefer it being driven from my e17/o2 than from the t1. My next purchase will probably be a odac or modi so I'll have a tube less desktop dac.


 
   
  True. I still have my E17. It's just too good dac/amp to sell or throw away. Great to have at hand if I ever need brighter sound or need to EQ something. I think T1 has great synergy with AKG X7XX line. Tube amps are probably best suited with grados, AKGs and HD800 etc.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/g/i/729670/interpretation-of-headphone-measurements-source-innerfidelity/sort/display_order/
   
   
  Quote: 





viogator said:


> It's Sennheiser and most of the people acknowledge their rather dark sound (with the exception of the top of their HD product line probably), so it is normal and nothing to worry about. It is for certain that changing headphones will affect your experience in a most significant way. As for me, I returned my Momentums (rather due to a discomfort caused by their design) and continued with my AKG Q701, which are producing the most transparent and bright sound I ever heard (with a bit anemic bass you have to get used to as well). Tube rolling won't give you such a significant difference for sure.


 
   
  Have you already tried the anniversary pads on your Q's? They shift the signature towards HD650 imo. Very easy and nice mod to have at hand. Increases the versatility of your cans.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/626971/akg-k702-65th-anniversary-edition/2670#post_9533670
   
   
  Quote: 





antonymous1991 said:


> A quick question - Is the above pictured tube our revered 7308 gold pin. I'll pull the trigger on this one if it is.


 
   
  Seems legit. It's, however, always good to check the factory codes if available.


----------



## viogator

salvatore said:


> Have you already tried the anniversary pads on your Q's? They shift the signature towards HD650 imo. Very easy and nice mod to have at hand. Increases the versatility of your cans.



Thanks for the advice. However, I'm outside of US, therefore harmanaudio.com is not available for me, so no easy way to acquire them. In general I'd try them for a curiousity's sake, but I'm a bit sceptical about miracle pads transforming one type of headphones to an absolutely different one


----------



## CoiL

This is offtopic but I found something amazingly great from my own country - Oleg Pissarenko - Who are You (_ jazz-postrock-minimalism_): http://olegpissarenkomusic.bandcamp.com/

 This is also great for testing/comparing tubes. Btw, I think Siemens PCC189 is very very good all-around performer and certainly worth to get tube. I think it`s better than my Miniwatt-Dario ECC189, better transparency, instrument separation, air/room response, better mids section and very good vocals (distance, male & female). Have to do some more comparing but feels it`s in the same "class" as my Ultron PCC189 white label & Amperex OG GAE.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> This is offtopic but I found something amazingly great from my own country - Oleg Pissarenko - Who are You (_ jazz-postrock-minimalism_): http://olegpissarenkomusic.bandcamp.com/


 
   
  This is absolutely fantastic music. Somehow reminds me of Mushishi soundtrack.


----------



## runnin17

Haven't read through the whole 147 pages. Does ASIO work with the T1 when using J. River???


----------



## aedeau

Hi all, I've been monitoring this thread for a while now but only received my silver T1 in the mail yesterday, so thought I had better post something.I won my T1 on ebay for $130US delivered(I'm in Australia), but forgot to check the power pack when I bought it, so it came with a 110v power pack  - I have a step down transformer anyway, so no big deal. 

The unit is quite decently made, and I'm very surprised at the weight of the power pack. I weighed it and it's 800grams!! I'm using the stock tube for the moment and my headphones are Sony MDR-V6s. I don't think I've seen anybody else on the forum using these headphones with the T1. Previously I was using a Lexicon Alpha DAC and to be honest, I can't really tell the difference at this stage. The T1 *maybe* has slightly less treble.

Initially the amp came with the dip switches set to +16db, but I noticed when I changed it to 0db the sound was much clearer, at least to my ears. Less distortion? Anyway, I have the volume sitting at around 80% now, rather than 15-20%. 

I also put a power meter on the amp and it appears to draw about 15.6 watts when plugged into my transformer. The transformer draws about 8 watts on it's own, so I guess the amp on it's own would probably draw 7-8 watts. I don't think I've seen any mention of power consumption, so just thought I'd put it out there. 

Anyway, my setup is at work at the moment and I've used it for about 2 hours so far. Not sure how long the stock tube takes to burn in, but guess I'll keep an ear on it over the next couple of days.


----------



## aedeau




----------



## jipan

Well, I don't know if this count, but my Aune T1 works with AsiiO4All and foobar2000. I just had to add new device on AsiiO4All plugin page on foobar2000.
  Quote: 





runnin17 said:


> Haven't read through the whole 147 pages. Does ASIO work with the T1 when using J. River???


 
   
   
  on other thing:
  Anybody here notice strange sound from the power brick? It's not just soft humm but kind of rattle (? - I don't know how to describe the sound, should I record it?) when I connect it to my electrical outlet. Even when my Aune T1 powered off, or even disconnected, there is the sound. I kind of scared if it's going bad (shorted, burned, etc).


----------



## inphu510n

aedeau said:


> I'm using the stock tube for the moment and my headphones are Sony MDR-V6s. I don't think I've seen anybody else on the forum using these headphones with the T1. Previously I was using a Lexicon Alpha DAC and to be honest, I can't really tell the difference at this stage. The T1 *maybe* has slightly less treble.




I'm no expert but I believe the reason you're not getting much out of the amp is because your headphones are quite easy to drive at 32ohms. Essentially you won't gain much using an amp with those V6's. Changing the DAC would have more of an impact on perceived SQ.
This is also the reason that changing the gain setting to 0 helped out a bit. The amp was essentially trying to push more volume into a pair of cans that already had plenty of headroom because they're easy to drive.

If you can get another pair of phones with a higher impedance to demo with your T1 I'm pretty confident you'll see a great difference using them amped vs. unamped.


----------



## aedeau

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> I'm no expert but I believe the reason you're not getting much out of the amp is because your headphones are quite easy to drive at 32ohms. Essentially you won't gain much using an amp with those V6's. Changing the DAC would have more of an impact on perceived SQ.


 
   
  The MDR-V6's impedance is 63ohms, specs are as follows. 
http://store.sony.com/p/DJ-headphones/en/p/MDRV6#specifications
   

 Driver Unit : 40mm
 Frequency Response : 5Hz - 30,000Hz
 Impedance : 63 ohms
 Sensitivity (db) : 106dB/mW


----------



## CoiL

Also it might just be the case that you personally don`t have the ears to detect changes so easily but imo changing headphones with T1 should make noticeable sound change every time.
 Try to chane 6922EH tube for russian 6N23P or Amperex OG and if you can`t make difference even then - it's your ears thingy.


----------



## Sorrodje

Everybody should admit that differences between different Amp and sources are subtle even though headphones can sound VERY different .  IMHO , differences and improvements brought by a new dac/amp should be judged after a long period of listening . I'm used to say that Improvements are not very noticeable when switching to an upgraded dac/amp  but after few days or weeks , brain does its job and it becomes quite difficult to come back and downgrade to the previous amp or source . 
   
  Maybe the Sony MDR V6 is not a very sensitive to the source too.  My Ultrasone is VERY sensitive athough my Senn is more sensitive to the amp for example .


----------



## inphu510n

aedeau said:


> The MDR-V6's impedance is 63ohms, specs are as follows.
> http://store.sony.com/p/DJ-headphones/en/p/MDRV6#specifications
> 
> 
> ...




HAHA I really should have looked that up before writing from memory. I obviously had forgotten the impedance value of the V6, probably one of the most popular studio headphones ever produced.
I believe my observation about the gain value is still correct.


----------



## MrEleventy

inphu510n said:


> HAHA I really should have looked that up before writing from memory. I obviously had forgotten the impedance value of the V6, probably one of the most popular studio headphones ever produced.
> I believe my observation about the gain value is still correct.




That's not the reason actually. The reason is that the higher the gain you have, the higher the amplification. Thus any noise that you wouldn't have noticed before is going to get amped as well so your SNR ratio suffers. With the V6 being sensitive cans (106db/mW), they'll pick up the distortion easily.

Typically, you'll want to set the gain as low as possible while getting good volume range on the pot.

E: 0 is more than enough for any hps with 150 and under for impedance. +10 is enough for even 600ohm Beyers so I don't see the point in +16. Maybe for high ohms with really low sensitivity cans?? :confused_face(1):


----------



## CoiL

Finally received my 4x PCC88 NOS tube pack from eBay (Bulgaria):

 1. White label Tesla PCC88, 32 marking, P(or F)L128 horizontal code on side, metal center vertical plate, large O-ring getter, copper pins inside tube, 4 in the middle of glass bottom.
  2. White label Tesla PCC88, 37 marking, 515 V0 horizontal code on side, metal center vertical plate, large O-ring getter, copper pins inside tube, 14 on the glass bottom between pins. 
  These two only construction difference is plate under getter, 32 has bumps on both side on that plate that are cut "open" from sides, 37 has those bump pressed.
  3. Tungsram PCC88, yellow thin font printed marking, above it again PCC88 in style of usual factory code printing, opposite side of the tube horizontal 7022, grey vertical center plate, large O-ring getter (thinner ring than my other 2 Tungsram PCC88`s), copper pin material inside tube.
  4. Tungsram PCC88, yellow thicker printed marking , vertical numbers on side: 76 and 8141, copper pin material inside tube, large O-ring getter.
   
  After fast listening and first impressions I would say that tube nr. 3 is best out of them and nr. 4 is same as my other Tungsram PCC88 which looks same but different codes and what I have said is good for HP`s & electronic music. Although all Tungsram PCC88`s sound very similiar to eachother and depends on music. 
   
*Edit:*
   
  After comparing 3 different Tesla PCC88`s, I`ve come to conclusion that my yellow label 32 marking Tesla PCC88 is best out of them, pretty much same opinion could be found on internet about Tesla PCC88`s.
   
  If I compare Tungsram PCC88 to Siemens PCC189 then Siemens is better. So, if you find cheap Siemens PCC189, better get it instead Tungsram PCC88, especially since it`s better for all genres.


----------



## Soori007

Recently after seeing the raving reviews about Ultrasone Pro 900 headphone for its capability to handle the bass, I ordered one online. How do you guys feel about this headphone. Mainly I'm going to use it in my office with Fiio E17. For home use I've Beyerdynamics T1. Does anyone have experience with Ultrasone Pro 900 cans when connected with Aune T1? By the way I'm using Telefunken E88CC tube with my T1.  I'm excited to try my new cans with T1  Thanks.


----------



## Levaix

Got my Amperex 7308 today (orange PQ shield logo). Was using the 6922EH that came with the amp. My initial reaction was how DEEP the bass suddenly sounds (using it with my SP's as usual), like it's reaching further down than where it was. My volume seems to be a bit quieter than it was on the EH, but that's fine with me. Everything is quite clean and detailed, almost a little TOO clean; my ears don't have to deal with distractions anymore. Will post more impressions later.
  
  Quote: 





soori007 said:


> Recently after seeing the raving reviews about Ultrasone Pro 900 headphone for its capability to handle the bass, I ordered one online. How do you guys feel about this headphone. Mainly I'm going to use it in my office with Fiio E17. For home use I've Beyerdynamics T1. Does anyone have experience with Ultrasone Pro 900 cans when connected with Aune T1? By the way I'm using Telefunken E88CC tube with my T1.  I'm excited to try my new cans with T1  Thanks.


 
  Funny you should mention that... I had a dubstep craving, so I brought my 900's over from the old house to where I am now. Other than the bass (which is truly impressive), the soundstage always has this really excellent extended feel to it, even compared to my SP's. I do think the SP's have better soundstage when you stop and listen, but the 900's are very in your face about it. Sounds that pan from left to right are extremely obvious about it. A lot of people recommend letting 900's burn in for quite some time, and I will say they definitely mellow out with extended use. Not to say that they ever become actually mellow... These are meant to be a fun headphone, and a lot of people find them too intense. I like them though. And quick EDIT since I didn't outright say it, I think the Aune is a great match for these. It really lends to that wide soundstage.


----------



## aedeau

coil said:


> Try to chane 6922EH tube for russian 6N23P or Amperex OG and if you can`t make difference even then - it's your ears thingy.




Actually, I didn't buy the upgraded version and my stock tube is a 6N11 Chinese tube. Most people seem to think this is pretty meh? I'm looking at a 6N1P-EV which I can get for about $1.50. Like you said, maybe my ears aren't good enough to detect any change, so I'm not keen on spending $30 on a gold lion 6922. Any idea if the 6N1P-EV will work? I can't remember which page it was on, but I remember seeing somebody tried a 6N1P, but not the EV variant.


----------



## viogator

I tried 6N23P-EV and it seems there is a hearable difference versus standard 6922: better scene and improved bass response. It should be checked more carefully though. I don't risk to put 6N1P due to bigger current on the grid.


----------



## boyang1724

Hello I'm new here, and I just received my Aune T1 today. Have a few questions that might have been answered already, but just need a confirmation. Plugged in RCA Out -> XLR on my M-Audio BX5 D2 monitors, USB in from my computer and RCA In from my phone/mp3, with and HD681 Evo in the headphone jack of the Aune T1. (Everything is plugged in to test the DAC/AMP out.) 

When set to USB on the Aune T1 with everything plugged in, both the speaker and the headphones have sound coming out, and the volume knob only controls volume on the headphones. From what I saw in this thread, this is normal(?) 

When set to Line, and both computer(USB) and phone(3.5->Dual RCA on Aune) playing music, the monitors play sound from the computer and the headphones from the phone. 

I presume that what I hear is normal for the Aune, but why doesn't phone->speakers work (RCA->RCA)? Also when both the computer and phone are playing audio, is the DAC only used for phone->headphones(RCA In->TRS/3.5mm) and the Amp used for the speakers(USB->RCA Out)? 

The RCA->RCA not working doesn't really affect me much as I still have an mp3 connection to speakers with a 3.5mm->Dual TRS cable, but how does the Aune actually function? I know that a USB->headphone connection will fully utilize the Tube DAC and amp, and that RCA In only uses the tube amp, but what about RCA->RCA and USB->RCA? Thanks for any answers/clarifications/corrections. I really couldn't find anything with a forum search, and my memory is a bit hazy.


----------



## MrEleventy

boyang1724 said:


> When set to USB on the Aune T1 with everything plugged in, both the speaker and the headphones have sound coming out, and the volume knob only controls volume on the headphones. From what I saw in this thread, this is normal(?)




Yes. It's a steady level volume out that's tied to the DAC. Volume pot is tied to the SS amp portion.



boyang1724 said:


> When set to Line, and both computer(USB) and phone(3.5->Dual RCA on Aune) playing music, the monitors play sound from the computer and the headphones from the phone.
> 
> I presume that what I hear is normal for the Aune, but why doesn't phone->speakers work (RCA->RCA)? Also when both the computer and phone are playing audio, is the DAC only used for phone->headphones(RCA In->TRS/3.5mm) and the Amp used for the speakers(USB->RCA Out)?
> 
> The RCA->RCA not working doesn't really affect me much as I still have an mp3 connection to speakers with a 3.5mm->Dual TRS cable, but how does the Aune actually function? I know that a USB->headphone connection will fully utilize the Tube DAC and amp, and that RCA In only uses the tube amp, but what about RCA->RCA and USB->RCA? Thanks for any answers/clarifications/corrections. I really couldn't find anything with a forum search, and my memory is a bit hazy.




It's a Tube *DAC*, not tube amp. Tube is only used when USB is the input.

RCA in bypasses the DAC and is only tied to the SS amp portion of the T1. RCA In > Heaphone jack is the only path that it can go. DAC path is either Line out (RCA out) or headphone jack. 

Paths are as follow : 
USB > RCA out 
USB > SS AMP Headphone jack

RCA in > SS AMP Headphone jack


----------



## boyang1724

Alright I think I got it. So the only way to utilize both the amp and the tube DAC is for USB in. RCA In only takes advantage of the amp, which completely ignores the tube DAC properties. Thank you very much for the explanation.


----------



## MrEleventy

Not a problem. How are you liking the T1? What tube are you running?


----------



## boyang1724

Only using the stock 6922EH, but compared to my previous setup of motherboard realtek and phone audio, the T1 is much better. I'll probably go with one of the suggested tubes once I get more money, but I'll first need to get some good headphones that will make use of the DAC/amp. Seems the 6DJ8 Orange Globes are pretty decent, so I'll probably get those in the future.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





aedeau said:


> Actually, I didn't buy the upgraded version and my stock tube is a 6N11 Chinese tube. Most people seem to think this is pretty meh? I'm looking at a 6N1P-EV which I can get for about $1.50. Like you said, maybe my ears aren't good enough to detect any change, so I'm not keen on spending $30 on a gold lion 6922. Any idea if the 6N1P-EV will work? I can't remember which page it was on, but I remember seeing somebody tried a 6N1P, but not the EV variant.


 
  Why 6N1P-EV ?There are other cheap alternatives like Ultron PCC189, Philips PCC189, 6N23P (rocket logo). Ultron is best out of them but hard to get outside EU. Philips PCC189 is widely available but with very different price range. 6N23P is most easily found and rocket logo is preferred. For example this offer for rocket logo: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-6N23P-E88CC-6DJ8-Tubes-NOS-/321152919972?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4ac634a9a4
  And if you listen mostly electronic music, go for Tungsram PCC88, which is also found quite cheap on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Tungsram-PCC88-7DJ8-Hungary-70s-Valve-Vacuum-Dual-Triode-Audio-Guitar-Tube-/200937674426?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2ec8d196ba
   
  As far as I know and read of that stock 6N11 chinese tube is pretty crappy tube, no wonder you don`t get the wow-effect.


----------



## audiofrog

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> Thank you both for your recommendations
> -AudioFrog


 
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> That`s "nothing" compared to my collection. Atm I have 25 tubes + 6 arriving any moment + some more tubes on trigger
> That black-money-sucking-box just won`t stop! HELP!!!
> 
> Btw, seems that your have Amperex OG with single support leg dimple disc? Is it GAC coded? If it is, how you like it compared to others?
> ...


 
   
  I just received my Aune T1.  Finally!  The same day I received my 6N23P Reflector in the mail, as recommended that CoiL.  The included tube (6922) to me sounded too clinical, a bit underwhelming.  Maybe it requires some burn in?  But, I popped the 6N23P Reflector and got more of that analog, vintage sound I was looking for from oldies, blues, jazz, and rock.  Well worth the purchase.  I got mine from http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6N23P and they were pretty quick to ship.  No hassles.  I also just ordered an Amperex Orange Globe from ebay- I got a NOS for $23.95.  I hope it's a great addition to my tube collection.  I should be getting that next week.  
   
  One thing I haven't played around with are the setting on the bottom of the Aune T1.  Have people played around with these?  Does it make a big difference?


----------



## MrEleventy

they're gain switches. all down is 0db. left ones up is+10, all up is +16


----------



## teb1013

audiofrog said:


> I just received my Aune T1.  Finally!  The same day I received my 6N23P Reflector in the mail, as recommended that CoiL.  The included tube (6922) to me sounded too clinical, a bit underwhelming.  Maybe it requires some burn in?  But, I popped the 6N23P Reflector and got more of that analog, vintage sound I was looking for from oldies, blues, jazz, and rock.  Well worth the purchase.  I got mine from http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6N23P and they were pretty quick to ship.  No hassles.  I also just ordered an Amperex Orange Globe from ebay- I got a NOS for $23.95.  I hope it's a great addition to my tube collection.  I should be getting that next week.
> 
> One thing I haven't played around with are the setting on the bottom of the Aune T1.  Have people played around with these?  Does it make a big difference?




Which gain setting you use depends on your headphones. For low impedance phones like my Sennheiser HD558s the 0 gain is all you need.


----------



## tommo21

Anyone tried the Amperex PCC88? Just got one off Ebay, and also a lot off 5 Voshkod 6n23p with different years spanning 69-80.And also two Reflektor 6n23p from 66 and unknown. Not crazymoney for these tubes. Spent inn total about $60. All tested new supposedly


----------



## MrEleventy

You want to sell or trade for one of those 6n23p? I got a telefunken pcc189, Low hours. 50 maybe.


----------



## aedeau

Quote: 





coil said:


> Why 6N1P-EV ?There are other cheap alternatives like Ultron PCC189, Philips PCC189, 6N23P (rocket logo). Ultron is best out of them but hard to get outside EU. Philips PCC189 is widely available but with very different price range. 6N23P is most easily found and rocket logo is preferred. For example this offer for rocket logo: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-6N23P-E88CC-6DJ8-Tubes-NOS-/321152919972?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4ac634a9a4
> And if you listen mostly electronic music, go for Tungsram PCC88, which is also found quite cheap on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Tungsram-PCC88-7DJ8-Hungary-70s-Valve-Vacuum-Dual-Triode-Audio-Guitar-Tube-/200937674426?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2ec8d196ba
> 
> As far as I know and read of that stock 6N11 chinese tube is pretty crappy tube, no wonder you don`t get the wow-effect.


 
   
  Thanks for the feedback and recommendations. I ended up going with that rocket 6N23P in link you posted. 2 tubes ended up costing $25AU delivered, and I figured I can probably sell one locally for $15, as some people don't want to wait. 
   
  I pretty much listen to all types of music except for electronic, so it'll be interesting to see if there are any difference. There wasn't any particular logic with going for a 6N1P-EV initially, other than trying to find the cheapest replacement for the stock 6N11 tube.


----------



## CoiL

Although I recommended Tungsram PCC88 for electronic music, it does very well with rock/metal/progressive also  Just, it fits better for electronic music imho. 6922EH is the tube I would not get for other music than electronic due to smooth flowing & deep bass, littlebit "recessed" mids, bright top end and large soundstage. If I were you, I would still get one Tungsram PCC88 just to get an idea about soundstage and "air" differences. Remember, differences about tubes we are all talking here are exaggerated to give more idea about differences so you might even like it Tungsram PCC88 more than 6N23P. For example I am listening Tesseract - Altered State atm with it and sounds very good but if I compare it to Ultron PCC189 gold label - no competition for me in the area of rock/metal/progressive, it just has better everything and much more natural, musical & enjoyable to listen. It`s the best tube alongside with Amperex OG GAC, Amperex OG GA8 and Ultron PCC189 white label. Roughly told, next "2nd league" for me would be Amperex OG GAE (PQ logo), Miniwatt-Dario ECC189, Miniwatt-Dario PCC189, Siemens PCC189 and "3rd league" would be Siemens PCC88, Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen, newer shield logo), Philips PCC189 (Heerlen), Lorenz Sel PCC189 (Heerlen). But it all comes down in the end to personal preference, hearing, source material, music genre, cans/speakers etc.


----------



## Kaaf

I just subscribed to head-fi, after reading alot in this thread.
The aune arrived two weeks ago with the eh tube. Hooked up my old sennheiser hd565 ovation, and was convinced. Now the finetuning begins. I already ordered a new headphone at my local dealer. I found the sennheiser HD600 the best with the Aune t1. Even the hd800 and all beyers ,and grado's were defeated by the hd600 regarding soundstage. Unfortunately it was not on stock, so i'm still waiting for the hd600. 
Tube rolling: all tubes just arrived. The voskhod's, a Philips e88c and a philips pcc189. I'll post my experiences soon, when the hd600 has a decent break in and can determine the differences. 
Maybe some can give advice on which tube to start with...


----------



## Enuma-elis

Just got some Reflector 6n23p and Tesla ECC88. I own 15 tubes in total, only 7 different types, but slowly I'm getting myself to the club. ECC88 is much closer to PCC88 than to E88CC. Good tube. About reflector... I'm missing a terminology, dunno "dark" would be the word? It has it's "own signature". Nice tube, but I've red post's about it's good bass and...maybe it'll need some burn in.


----------



## CoiL

Enuma, imho 6n23p reflector also has it`s own sound signature but personally I don`t like it with Aune T1 due to too "through blanket" sounding and bass isn`t great either. If someone would like "old" & "thick" sounding tube I would rather recommend Mullard PCC189 or Mazda Belvu PCC189, much more pleasant sounding tubes. Don`t get me wrong, 6n23p reflektor is good but imo not worth getting, at least for me, but depends lot on taste.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Yep. I have a same feeling. Definitely will try some multi-genre  listening, but so far...not so good.


----------



## DestinyBear

Are there such things as fake aune T1's. If i buy one on ebay, is it guaranteed that it's real?


----------



## Moistened

Where do you guys get the Ultron PCC189? 
All I can find is the Tungsram PCC189, which isn't the same thing right?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





enuma-elis said:


> Just got some Reflector 6n23p and Tesla ECC88. I own 15 tubes in total, only 7 different types, but slowly I'm getting myself to the club. ECC88 is much closer to PCC88 than to E88CC. Good tube. About reflector... I'm missing a terminology, dunno "dark" would be the word? It has it's "own signature". Nice tube, but I've red post's about it's good bass and...maybe it'll need some burn in.


 
   
  Not sure if Rocket is any better than the reflector, but yeah warm bassy forward sounding tube. Not as refined as the better tubes and bass lacks some resolution (feels boomy at times). Not my best tube, but very nice for the money (I got 2 for $10). I wouldn't describe these russian tubes to have especially good bass. Maybe quantity but not as much quality imo. I haven't tested reflector, but what I've read I think people should go for the Voshkod rocket.
   
  Quote: 





destinybear said:


> Are there such things as fake aune T1's. If i buy one on ebay, is it guaranteed that it's real?


 
   
  Not sure about fake Aunes, but fake ebay sellers for sure.
   
  Quote: 





moistened said:


> Where do you guys get the Ultron PCC189?
> All I can find is the Tungsram PCC189, which isn't the same thing right?


 
   
  No not the same thing  Ultron is pretty hard to find from ebay. I got mine from local tube seller. Also you should keep in mind that there are at least 3 different Ultron versions out there. They are relabeled tubes so you could have major sonic differences between different tubes. Coil and that one Norwegian guy (forgot his name) probably have the most info about Ultron tubes.


----------



## DestinyBear

When buying from eBay do I need to worry about any duties or taxes. It's shipping from china


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





destinybear said:


> When buying from eBay do I need to worry about any duties or taxes. It's shipping from china


 
   
  Yes. Whatever apply in your country. I live in EU so I ordered mine from UK.


----------



## teb1013

teb1013 said:


> I just got my nos Amperex JAN 7308, green label from Upscale Audio. Although it is "driver" grade, it sounds very musical, an almost liquid sound. Even though I have only a couple of hours on it, it seems more refined than the 6922 EH that I have done much of my listening on. How much of this is a placebo effect, I will figure out as I burn the tube in.




Ok I've had this tube for 2 weeks now and it's really come into its own. The so-called "liquid" sound (not my term, but I see what it means) makes this a joy to listen to. This has a lovely broad soundstage. In small acoustic ensembles it sounds like you in the middle of the instruments. Solo piano, guitar etc sound great. Solo voice marvelous as well (I generally like the female voice, but even, solo male voices are pretty good with this). I do much of my listening of classical and jazz (the latter taste developed because it sounds great on my set up) the Aune with this tube sounds great with this type of music but with classic rock as well. In fact so far I haven't found anything that this tube doesn't handle well. I also find that fairly low bit rate stuff sounds pretty good "smoothed out" by the Amperex. OK it's not an "accurate" representation of the MP3 sound and 320 or FLAC is miles better, but I am talking about enjoying music here, and the tube really helps.
Bottom line, this tube cost $50 USD for "driver grade" but it has been a worthwhile investment, I hope this NOS (1968) tube lasts for years. My 6922eh and Voskhod are going to take a bit of a rest.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





moistened said:


> Where do you guys get the Ultron PCC189?
> All I can find is the Tungsram PCC189, which isn't the same thing right?


 
  If you are in EU then Uraltone.com, electols.com sell Ultron PCC189`s but they are white label probably. I have both, Ultron SQ PCC189 gold label and Ultron PCC189/7ES8 white label, both are great tubes. Compared to white label, gold label has littlebit tighter bass & kick, tinybit better mids, soundstage is tinybit pushed more foward and highs/mid-highs are smoother (same or better than Amperex OG GAC). Gold label is superb with rock/metal/progressive/jazz and is very similiar to Amperex OG GAC. White label is more widely available and suits better for every genre.


----------



## Moistened

Damn. Thanks guys, but I live in Canada.
  What tubes do you guys recommend for EDM? ( I mainly listen to House and Trance music )


----------



## CoiL

For house and trance take a cheap Tungsram PCC88 -> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOS-Tungsram-PCC88-7DJ8-Hungary-70s-Valve-Vacuum-Dual-Triode-Audio-Guitar-Tube-/200937674426?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2ec8d196ba


----------



## boyang1724

So I'm thinking of getting a good mid-pro range headphone for my Aune T1. 

Budget at $500, but preferably closer to $400. Thinking between the AKG K70X variants, Beyer T90, and Hifiman HE-400/500 (Doubt it'll drive the HE-500 properly though), or any similar open cans. I'll likely be using these headphones for a long time so I want to the get the best possible for the DAC/Amp combo. 

I'll be listening to female vocals and occasionally rock and will upgrade to the Amperex OG soon. Anyone have any suggestions for the headphones, and will the T1 drive the HE-500? Thanks.


----------



## DestinyBear

Are the highly praised Orange Globes by Amperex, on this thread, the Disc Getter, the A-frames getter or the PQ with A-frames getter? Are there any sonic differences between the 3 or just to differentiate the year of the model. When given all 3 options, which one should I buy


----------



## Salvatore

They are all good but the old halo getters are probably the best. They are also more expensive.


----------



## DestinyBear

Is the halo getter the same as the disc getter


----------



## Salvatore

See post #2016 on page 135 for more info: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294


----------



## Kaaf

To Boyang1724
   
  Get the Sennheiser HD600. Right up your pricerange. With IMO the best soundstage and sound in general.I've compared it with the beyer DT880, Grado sr325i and more expensive units. But the HD600 prevailed. I counldn't compare it to Hifiman (not common in the  EU)
  But maybe your sound preference is a bit different. I'm completely happy with my hd600'. Just go to your local HIFI store with a good choice of headphones. Don't buy anything withut listening first. Or you end up with a crappy combo. And buy it from that store also. The money is worth it. Or else all store will be exstinct if everything is bought online. And some things need to be listened first.


----------



## boyang1724

kaaf said:


> To Boyang1724
> 
> Get the Sennheiser HD600. Right up your pricerange. With IMO the best soundstage and sound in general.I've compared it with the beyer DT880, Grado sr325i and more expensive units. But the HD600 prevailed. I counldn't compare it to Hifiman (not common in the  EU)
> But maybe your sound preference is a bit different. I'm completely happy with my hd600'. Just go to your local HIFI store with a good choice of headphones. Don't buy anything withut listening first. Or you end up with a crappy combo. And buy it from that store also. The money is worth it. Or else all store will be exstinct if everything is bought online. And some things need to be listened first.




I've tried out the K702, HD600 and a few more open headphones at stores, but haven't been able to test out the Beyer T90 or the Hifimans yet. The HD600 sounded fairly good, but from some of the threads here and reviews online, the Beyer T90 and HE-500 are better suited for my needs. I'll obviously try to test out the headphones before I buy them, but some are just fairly hard to come by. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## antonymous1991

Quote: 





kaaf said:


> To Boyang1724
> 
> Get the Sennheiser HD600. Right up your pricerange. With IMO the best soundstage and sound in general.I've compared it with the beyer DT880, Grado sr325i and more expensive units. But the HD600 prevailed. I counldn't compare it to Hifiman (not common in the  EU)
> But maybe your sound preference is a bit different. I'm completely happy with my hd600'. Just go to your local HIFI store with a good choice of headphones. Don't buy anything withut listening first. Or you end up with a crappy combo. And buy it from that store also. The money is worth it. Or else all store will be exstinct if everything is bought online. And some things need to be listened first.


 

 I have the HE-400 and Aune T1 combination. It works like a charm and people in this thread actually convinced me to buy the T1 for my HE-400. Search for HE-400 in this thread, people find the synergy to be very good. HD 600 is also an amazing can. Some people prefer the HD 650 but I'm not sure how the T1 will drive them. I'd suggest you read comparisons between them on other head-fi threads and choose the best depending on the genres you prefer.
   
  Here's something I saw on a thread -
   
   
  "HD600-accurate and intimate does everything well..
   
  HD650-Warm and intimate, fantastic mids, and  an addictive tone..
   
  HE-400 Expansive instrument separation, crisp and a bit dark at the same time, excellent bass layering, probably the most "fun" of the mentioned."


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





antonymous1991 said:


> Some people prefer the HD 650 but I'm not sure how the T1 will drive them.


 
   
  No problems driving HD650 with T1. HD650 are actually easier to drive than AKG X7XX.


----------



## SanJulesSur

Quote: 





boyang1724 said:


> I've tried out the K702, HD600 and a few more open headphones at stores, but haven't been able to test out the Beyer T90 or the Hifimans yet. The HD600 sounded fairly good, but from some of the threads here and reviews online, the Beyer T90 and HE-500 are better suited for my needs. I'll obviously try to test out the headphones before I buy them, but some are just fairly hard to come by. Thanks for the advice.


 
   
  I have the HE-500 (as well as the HE-400 and Audeze LCD 2 rev 2) and the Aune T1 can drive them.  If I keep the gain switch on 0 I have the volume AT MOST 60-70% and if I put the gain switch on +10 I use around 40-50% AT MOST.  I love the synergy of either my Hifiman cans with my Mullard tubes.  Perfect.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





sanjulessur said:


>


 
   
  This looks awesome!


----------



## teb1013

sanjulessur said:


> I have the HE-500 (as well as the HE-400 and Audeze LCD 2 rev 2) and the Aune T1 can drive them.  If I keep the gain switch on 0 I have the volume AT MOST 60-70% and if I put the gain switch on +10 I use around 40-50% AT MOST.  I love the synergy of either my Hifiman cans with my Mullard tubes.  Perfect.




This tube collection is magnificent! Look at them, each with its own space presumably with performance notes! I have 3 right now! What is the tube in your T1 in the picture?


----------



## inphu510n

teb1013 said:


> This tube collection is magnificent! Look at them, each with its own space presumably with performance notes! I have 3 right now! What is the tube in your T1 in the picture?




Yes! That's a socket adapter on there!


----------



## cheuh

sanjulessur said:


> I have the HE-500 (as well as the HE-400 and Audeze LCD 2 rev 2) and the Aune T1 can drive them.  If I keep the gain switch on 0 I have the volume AT MOST 60-70% and if I put the gain switch on +10 I use around 40-50% AT MOST.  I love the synergy of either my Hifiman cans with my Mullard tubes.  Perfect.




Can the aune t1 drive the lcd2 and he-500 to ear deafening volumes?


----------



## SanJulesSur

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> This looks awesome!


 
   
  Thanks Salvatore!
   
  Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> This tube collection is magnificent! Look at them, each with its own space presumably with performance notes! I have 3 right now! What is the tube in your T1 in the picture?


 
   
  Thanks teb103!  In that picture I'm using a Mullard E88CC-01
   
  Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> Yes! That's a socket adapter on there!


 
   
  Indeed.  I got it here: http://www.tubemonger.com/NOVIB_Socket_Saver_with_Vibration_Red_B9A_NOVAL_p/novib-cos.htm   I roll tubes pretty often and per recommendations a tube socket saver was a smart idea.  Apparently these also enhance sound the sound :

   
*Great for SQ NOT just for your sockets!*
 _October 5, 2012_ _Reviewer: Mark Haynes from Telford, Shropshire United Kingdom_  
 I bought these for my Yaqin MC100B which uses 2 X 12ax7s in the input.  Here I use late 50s Brimar 12ax7 long plates which are supposed to be non microphonic.  Thinking that they would help protect my Noval sockets (the other sockets are octal and easier to 'retension') I bought these. However I wasn't expecting such a massive improvement in SQ.  I use Golden Dragon tube dampers but this made a bigger improvement to the SQ than them!  Depth, clarity across all frequency ranges were improved and everything seemed more 3 dimensional.  Buy these NOT just to protect your sockets but to IMPROVE YOUR SQ!!"  
   
  I can't comment on an actual tangible SQ improvement (maybe it's just in my head) but it seems more "solid."  Anyway I just use to minimize the wear on the socket. Any SQ improvements are just a bonus.  
   
   
  Quote: 





cheuh said:


> Can the aune t1 drive the lcd2 and he-500 to ear deafening volumes?


 
   
  On 0 level gain they can't.  But on +10 gain they will.  It's already far TOO loud for me, "ear deafening", at 70-80% volume @ +10 gain.  It's no Schiit Lyr, which i demoed, in terms of power but it packs a decent punch for a little guy.  I usually hover around 40-50% volume for "louder" normal listening with my orthostats and for "low volume" listening I hover around 25-35% volume @ +10 gain.


----------



## MRpilgrim

Hello. Would anyone know if the Aune T1 sounds good with the grado sr 225i ?


----------



## CoiL

You probably need a tube that tames grados highs littlebit, Amperex OG for example.
   
  Offtopic: new albums are coming soon from Karnivool and Dead Letter Circus! 
  Karnivool new song: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_E5ae9ZTwk
  Dead letter Circus new song: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayXRXhXHEi0
   
  Nothing`s changed - total EaRgAsM with T1 + HD-681 mkii + Ultron PCC189 ;P


----------



## MRpilgrim

Thanks. Would anyone know how the little dot 1+ compares to the aune t1 ?


----------



## MRpilgrim

Would the tubes be something like this? http://www.quartzacoustic.com/shop/driver-tubes/amperex-orange-globe-logo-6dj86922-pre-amp-tube/ Thanks.


----------



## teb1013

mrpilgrim said:


> Thanks. Would anyone know how the little dot 1+ compares to the aune t1 ?




The Little Dot is a hybrid (combining tubes and transistors) amplifier. It has no DAC. The Aune is a hybrid DAC with a solid state amplifier. The tube (a 6922 or equivalent) is in the DAC section. If you already have a DAC you could use the Aune amp but you wouldn't get the benefit of the tube. If you have a solid state DAC and want tube sound, a tube amp ((there are many) or hybrid amp like the LD is what you want.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





mrpilgrim said:


> Would the tubes be something like this? http://www.quartzacoustic.com/shop/driver-tubes/amperex-orange-globe-logo-6dj86922-pre-amp-tube/ Thanks.


 
  Yes. I have 3 different OG`s and the link you gave should be GAC coded. Imo it`s the best & smoothest sounding out of OG`s I have. Other OG`s I have are GA8 & GAE coded and they are with A-frame dimple disc later production tubes.


----------



## inphu510n

teb1013 said:


> The Little Dot is a hybrid (combining tubes and transistors) amplifier. It has no DAC. The Aune is a hybrid DAC with a solid state amplifier. The tube (a 6922 or equivalent) is in the DAC section. If you already have a DAC you could use the Aune amp but you wouldn't get the benefit of the tube. If you have a solid state DAC and want tube sound, a tube amp ((there are many) or hybrid amp like the LD is what you want.




Well stated.
I own the LD MKII and like it a lot.
From what I've been told, the 6DJ8 family of tubes are better audio tubes than the stock 6AK5 tube family that the LD uses. That said, you can adapt the LD amps to use a far greater variety of tubes which are both sonically excellent and far cheaper per tube.


----------



## White Lotus

If the SSD Amp section of the T1 isn't *quite* enough driving power for me, 

Could I use the "Line-out" ports, to connect it to another amp?

My understanding is that the signal chain would then be like this:

Laptop -> USB -> Aune T1 Tube DAC section - RCA - Fiio E09K (in this example).

Effectively, instead of using the SSD amplifier in the T1, it would use the SSD in the E09K.. Right?


----------



## MRpilgrim

Thanks for the help so far guys. Would using a fiio e7 as a dac with a little dot 1+ as a amp be better or worse than using the aune t1 by itself.


----------



## antonymous1991

Hey Guys!
   
  I just won an auction for this tube and I'm wondering exactly which tube is this? The seller listed it as a 7dj8 but I figured with the orange globe visible, how bad can it be.


----------



## teb1013

white lotus said:


> If the SSD Amp section of the T1 isn't *quite* enough driving power for me,
> 
> Could I use the "Line-out" ports, to connect it to another amp?
> 
> ...




Yes it is possible to use the Aune as a DAC only. I don't know enough about the E09K (which has a slot for the E07 or E17 as a DAC) to know how it would work with an external DAC, but if so, the Aune should work. What headphones do you want to use? With 3 levels of gain you may not need more amp. Search this thread for the headphones you want to use, I have Sennheiser HD558s which are easy to drive, I use 0 gain with the T1. There are entries stating that the HD600 and 650 are no problem and Hifiman HE400, 500 and a number of Grados as well. Clearly there are "hard to drive" cans that the Aune isn't up to but I don't know if the Fiio would be up to them either.


----------



## teb1013

mrpilgrim said:


> Thanks for the help so far guys. Would using a fiio e7 as a dac with a little dot 1+ as a amp be better or worse than using the aune t1 by itself.




 To use the E7 as a DAC only you would use a Fiio L7 connector. I have an E7, which I used for a year before I got the T1. I like the E7 as a portable DAC/amp but the T1 is in a different league. Quality wise I don't know how the E7/1+ combo would compare with the Aune.


----------



## MRpilgrim

Would you guys know anything about this tube? http://www.quartzacoustic.com/?product=electro-harmonix-6922eh-pre-amp-tube


----------



## antonymous1991

Quote: 





mrpilgrim said:


> Would you guys know anything about this tube? http://www.quartzacoustic.com/?product=electro-harmonix-6922eh-pre-amp-tube


 
   


 If I'm not wrong, this is the stock tube that comes with the upgraded version. People find it to be good for electronic music.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





antonymous1991 said:


> Hey Guys!
> 
> I just won an auction for this tube and I'm wondering exactly which tube is this? The seller listed it as a 7dj8 but I figured with the orange globe visible, how bad can it be.


 
   
  All the info you need: post #2016 on page 135, http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294
   
  Quote: 





mrpilgrim said:


> Would you guys know anything about this tube? http://www.quartzacoustic.com/?product=electro-harmonix-6922eh-pre-amp-tube


 
   
  It's the current stock tube. Decent russian tube, but if you're shopping at quartz I'd go for orange globe.


----------



## MRpilgrim

I would get the Aune t1 and whatever tubes from there since I get free shipping being in Singapore. Would you have any experience with this? http://www.quartzacoustic.com/shop/driver-tubes/hp-6dj8-a-frame-mullard-pre-amp-tube/ Thanks


----------



## Salvatore

No personal experiences, but I've found those quartz tube descriptions to be very informative:
   
  "_By looking at the type code first, GA of the GA0 (is G-A-’zero’, not G-A-O) clearly presented in indicative of the tube variant, in this case ECC88, a European designation for the 6DJ8 tube types. 0 is the batch number, an indication only important to the factory that produced these tubes. The next code in line is supposedly indicative of the Mullard manufacturer in this case. While ‘B’ is still quite clearly seen followed by ’6′, which says it was made in Mullard plant in Blackburn, England, in the 1966, the subsequent codes are harder in distinguishing. Those will only be indicative of the month and week of production._
   
_Tube variant #1 has an additional print of Holland, although that is only an indicative sign that Mullard plant in Blackburn made that tube for one of Amperex OEM, HP, which Amperex made some of the other labels like Philips, Dario Miniwatt, DuMont etc under the same Bugel Boy factory in Heerlen factory, Holland._
   
_So, seemingly Holland labels, but British made! Mullards are known for their warm velvety sounds that some cherished and loved so much, for that they feel bring out the analogue sound that translate to natural and living. Yes, these tubes showed such characteristics in our tests._
   
_For those who have been listening to solid-state (SS) amps or using tubes that exhibit all the cleaniness and crispiness of sounds might find these HP 6DJ8 A-frame tubes slightly less sharp. It could be a bit uneasy at first, but hold on, and you might begin to just feel so comfortable with the smooth rendition of the highs and mids. Vocals are especially feeling very warmth and intimate. Bass is ever so laidback but never uncompromising. Resolution is fantastic, to leave one not congested from the warmth which some SS tries to sell the ‘tube sound’._"
   
  In this case, however, I'm not sure if the factory code descriptions are accurate. All the info I've been reading suggest that A-frame support was more of a 70's invention. There is definitely B6 to be seen, but I think that #1 is actually a 1976 Mullard 6DJ8 A-Frame (similar to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Matched-Pair-H-P-Mullard-A-Frame-ECC88-6DJ8-E88CC-6922-CV2492-Cca-TUBES-/271175276100?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3f234e5644). # 1 is in better condition but the price is too high for 70's A-frame IMO.


----------



## DestinyBear

I feel a lot more people will be joining this thread since a certain group buy website that drops prices when people buy in mass, has the aune t1 up.
   
  Also, comparing the OG and the Amperex 7308, what are the differences in sound.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





mrpilgrim said:


> I would get the Aune t1 and whatever tubes from there since I get free shipping being in Singapore. Would you have any experience with this? http://www.quartzacoustic.com/shop/driver-tubes/hp-6dj8-a-frame-mullard-pre-amp-tube/ Thanks


 
  Just get Aune T1 and Amperex OG from there and forget other tubes until your own ears feel that they need something else.
  I have Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen Holland, newer shield logo, a-frame dimple disc getter) and I personally feel it`s highs are littlebit "flat" sounding. It is very good tube but Amperex OG`s are better for my ears & cans.


----------



## Spiderman

Does anyone have any experience running this dac with the mad dogs? I am worried it won't provide enough power.


----------



## AxelCloris

Quote: 





spiderman said:


> Does anyone have any experience running this dac with the mad dogs? I am worried it won't provide enough power.


 
   
  I haven't had my T1 long, but so far it sounds pretty darn nice with my Mad Dogs. That said, I feel the T1 does a better job of driving my Q701s than the Mad Dogs, but I still really enjoy how they sound. I had the Magni/Modi stack before with the MDs, and both are nice. I think the Schiit provided better power, but the tube on the Aune adds something that the Schiit Stack can't, customization. (Though I haven't gotten into tube rolling yet myself.) Also, considering I got my T1 for just shy of $120, I feel it was better value for money.
   
  In a nutshell, it's not bad for power, but there are those who swear by more powerful amps with the MDs. Also, glowing tubes are pretty.


----------



## DestinyBear

Axel, can you please compare the modi/magni stack with the Aune T1, it's been something that was troubling me heavily before my purchase and I'd like to know your honest opinion. Other than customization, in terms of sound, how do they differ.


----------



## MRpilgrim

coil said:


> Just get Aune T1 and Amperex OG from there and forget other tubes until your own ears feel that they need something else.
> I have Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen Holland, newer shield logo, a-frame dimple disc getter) and I personally feel it`s highs are littlebit "flat" sounding. It is very good tube but Amperex OG`s are better for my ears & cans.



Thanks for the help. I think I will probably order the Aune t1 and Amperex OG from quartz once I have saved the money.


----------



## DestinyBear

Can anyone tell me if these are Orange Globes. 
   
  http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/OC0AAMXQDfdRvfNR/$T2eC16hHJI!E9qSO-S1hBRvfNQ2flw~~60_57.JPG
   
  Listing included that [size=small]these are dimpled plate getter with A-frame.[/size]


----------



## boyang1724

destinybear said:


> Can anyone tell me if these are Orange Globes.
> 
> http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/OC0AAMXQDfdRvfNR/$T2eC16hHJI!E9qSO-S1hBRvfNQ2flw~~60_57.JPG
> 
> Listing included that [size=small]these are dimpled plate getter with A-frame.[/size]




Don't think so. Your listing has GAE/0H3 AND GAE/2J2 which should be close to this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181169778552

I think only the GAC are Orange Globes. Might need to check on that though.


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> In this case, however, I'm not sure if the factory code descriptions are accurate. All the info I've been reading suggest that A-frame support was more of a 70's invention.


 
   
  Interesting observation, *Salvatore*! I checked up on this and actually realised they did exist before 1970s. Brent Jesse from http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm has listings of Mullard-labelled (or not) with Blackburn factory codes from the 60s. Joe from http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8 mentioned this A-frames came from mid/60s onwards through 70s.
   
  And one thing to note on the colour of the label for Amperex tubes, applied similarly to other OEMs made for them, is that white labels preceded orange labels. Hence, orange labels are mostly certain to come from 70s, while white labels can come from both.. Which I presumed this as a result distinctly differentiate the signatures, and probably prices, of  Bugle Boys / White Labels from the Orange Globe or other orange labels *along the same series*.. cannot compare between, say, 6DJ8 white labels with 7308 Orange Globe.
   
  Quote: 





boyang1724 said:


> I think only the GAC are Orange Globes. Might need to check on that though.


 
   
  As for the identification of the Orange Globes, I think GAC or GAE for the matter, GA is only to identified it is a ECC88 type, which is European designation for 6DJ8. And that C or E is a batch code thingy, or change symbol. I read it from here: http://frank.pocnet.net/other/Philips/PhilipsCodeListAB.pdf
   
  Hence the type code might not be conclusive enough in determining Orange Globe or not, GAE might still be possible being an Orange Globe.. but the fact that Orange Globes are commonly seen with GAC codes, this is telling maybe on batch 'C' Orange Globes were produced and they were produced lesser or none on another batch down the line which we have/will not seen/see as much as 'C'.


----------



## Salvatore

Come on guys why don't you just read more? Once again please check post #2016 on page 135, http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294 I've spent much time creating this info. There is specific OG info section and a section which teaches you to interpret factory codes. The old 60's halo getters are the "real" orange globes. They later introduced stronger A-frame support from which the globe logo is often missing. Coil has compared different orange prints and according to his impressions the older ones are the best, but they all sound very good. A-frames are often much cheaper. To be accurate, orange print means all orange print amperexes and OG means the older version where the actual globe is printed in the logo.
   
  Beware of the infamous red label amperexes. They are british made and apparently way worse than the real deal.


----------



## Sorrodje

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Come on guys why don't you just read more? Once again please check post #2016 on page 135, http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294 I've spent much time creating this info. There is specific OG info section and a section which teaches you to interpret factory codes. The old 60's halo getters are the "real" orange globes. They later introduced stronger A-frame support from which the globe logo is often missing. Coil has compared different orange prints and according to his impressions the older ones are the best, but they all sound very good. A-frames are often much cheaper. To be accurate, orange print means all orange print amperexes and OG means the older version where the actual globe is printed in the logo.
> 
> Beware of the infamous red label amperexes. They are british made and apparently way worse than the real deal.


 
   
   
  Maybe you should PM the OP or a moderator in order to add your perfect summary to the first post of this thread ? it should me easier to find IMO.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





icecap said:


> Interesting observation, *Salvatore*! I checked up on this and actually realised they did exist before 1970s. Brent Jesse from http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm has listings of Mullard-labelled (or not) with Blackburn factory codes from the 60s. Joe from http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8 mentioned this A-frames came from mid/60s onwards through 70s.
> 
> And one thing to note on the colour of the label for Amperex tubes, applied similarly to other OEMs made for them, is that white labels preceded orange labels. Hence, orange labels are mostly certain to come from 70s, while white labels can come from both.. Which I presumed this as a result distinctly differentiate the signatures, and probably prices, of  Bugle Boys / White Labels from the Orange Globe or other orange labels *along the same series*.. cannot compare between, say, 6DJ8 white labels with 7308 Orange Globe.


 
   
  This is indeed interesting stuff. I really enjoy studying the history of these tubes. Feels like being a detective of some sort  I still think A-frame is mainly 70's stuff (or late 60's). Not sure if this particular tube is actually 1966 a-frame, but I'd give it a higher probability to be 70's tube just like they stated in that ebay auction.
   
  Apparently this was the info you referred into?
   
  "_You will often find a different internal structure in what are apparently late production 6DJ8 family tubes from the mid/late ‘60s through the ‘70s. These tubes sometimes had a simplified internal structure that eliminated the splatter shield / getter halo arrangement. In these tubes two metal bars angle up from the upper mica spacer, almost to a point, with a small metal disc on top. Viewed from the side this metal structure on top of the upper mica spacer looks a bit like the letter A hence the nickname A frame. The other exceptions are some late Siemens 6922s & 7308s that just have a single metal rod rising above the upper mica spacer with a ring shaped getter halo on top a practice copied in the Russian 6922s and 6H23Ns_."
   
  Quote: 





icecap said:


> As for the identification of the Orange Globes, I think GAC or GAE for the matter, GA is only to identified it is a ECC88 type, which is European designation for 6DJ8. And that C or E is a batch code thingy, or change symbol. I read it from here: http://frank.pocnet.net/other/Philips/PhilipsCodeListAB.pdf
> 
> Hence the type code might not be conclusive enough in determining Orange Globe or not, GAE might still be possible being an Orange Globe.. but the fact that Orange Globes are commonly seen with GAC codes, this is telling maybe on batch 'C' Orange Globes were produced and they were produced lesser or none on another batch down the line which we have/will not seen/see as much as 'C'.


 
   
  This is very true. This code only tells you the tube type and batch. For more accurate info you need the whole factory codes.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





sorrodje said:


> Maybe you should PM the OP or a moderator in order to add your perfect summary to the first post of this thread ? it should me easier to find IMO.


 
   
  Perfect, lol. It's a good place to start, but could be always better. We should all work together to make it to get there. Hopefully Coil gets his colossal tube collection reviewed. That would be an awesome addition.


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Come on guys why don't you just read more? Once again please check post #2016 on page 135, http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294 I've spent much time creating this info. There is specific OG info section and a section which teaches you to interpret factory codes. The old 60's halo getters are the "real" orange globes. They later introduced stronger A-frame support from which the globe logo is often missing. Coil has compared different orange prints and according to his impressions the older ones are the best, but they all sound very good. A-frames are often much cheaper. To be accurate, orange print means all orange print amperexes and OG means the older version where the actual globe is printed in the logo.
> 
> Beware of the infamous red label amperexes. They are british made and apparently way worse than the real deal.


 
   
  Actually from what I understand A-frame started before orange labels even came, which they were incorporated for some white labels around the same time as Bugle Boys.. 60s is the period of Bugel Boys and OEM White Labels, orange prints in what ever form only came after that, 1968 onwards. And A-frames only existed for 6DJB/7DJ8 tube types..They are not cheap as they are thought here to be.. OG is good, but IMHO, A-frame exhibited a class of timbre and air way above the OG.. but still, all these are just personal tastes with variation to equipment and best is to hear one yourself!
   
  Anyway, these are all inferences from all sources available and the only fact to approve all these diagnosis is when a 6DJ8 manual/guide book appear from Amperex or Philips.. the year part is especially ambiguous with the last letter being the last number of the year..
   
  but here is a link to see some old tear sheets from these famous plants! http://vintagetubeservices.com/page8.html


----------



## robrob

Wow. I just finished setting up my Aune T1 and AKG K240 headphones. I'm not an audiophile but my music has NEVER sounded better (CDs ripped to flac). I've had the K240s for a couple of years and I was pretty disappointed with them when plugged directly into my computer. As many have reported before me I now hear things I've never heard in my favorite songs. The T1 + the moderately priced K240 sound amazing. I'll try an upgraded tube later and the T1 might prod me into getting some proper high-end headphones too. I'm very, very happy with the T1.
   
  My T1 came with the EH tube even though it wasn't advertised as the "upgrade" T1. The included gold plated 1/8 to 1/4" headphone adapter was a nice surprise. I ordered from musitank-usa on ebay and delivery from China took 11 days. It came with all gain dip switches on for 16db gain. I needed the mid position of 10db for the K240.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





icecap said:


> OG is good, but IMHO, A-frame exhibited a class of timbre and air way above the OG.


 
  I have GAC, GA8 and GAE. All of them should have orange globe logos printed on them. Personally I find GAC being most musical and with "open" highs. Differences are VERY little and yes, GAE & GA8 have more noticeable "timbre" but is it certainly better? I find GAC coded to be with more dynamical and "open" highs section and less fatiguing. But it somewhat depends on cans also.
  Can`t find the post atm but I saw a post somewhere where all different OG logo marked tubes were nicely listed and guy stated, that there are probably more types to be found. 
  GAC coded are only OG`s with *single support leg dimple disc getter*. Earlier OG marking tubes were BB`s with single support leg o-ring getter and later 70`s had A-frame support dimple disc getter. GAC`s were made in only short period, probably between 68-70` and as far as I know - only Heerlen Holland plant made them.
  Like I´ve told before, GA8 is more towards GAC and GAE being more towards to Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen A-frame, GAG delta 5D2) & Philips PCC189 (Heerlen A-Frame). Differences are little and hard to notice but they are there and this is my opinion about them. Hope it helps.


----------



## DestinyBear

Thank you guys I decided to pull the trigger and bought them, when i have an extra bit of money I'll try getting the GAC as well and compare them


----------



## CoiL

Well, GAC OG`s are really hard to find actually.
  Well, I`m going to probably hate myself for posting these offers but since I have GAC + 2x golden logo Ultron SQ PCC189`s (that imho are littlebit better or at least same good depending on music), I`m giving up those opportunities to someone else. Here are 2 pairs of GAC`s:
   
  1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/matched-pair-Amperex-ECC88-6DJ8-E88CC-6922-7308-E188CC-/261242685022?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd347065e
   
  2) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/matched-pair-Amperex-ECC88-6DJ8-E88CC-6922-7308-E188CC-/261242685017?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd3470659
   
  And also 2 pairs of Amperex PQ`s (not sure they are same GAE coded PQ that I have):
   
  1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/matched-pair-Amperex-PQ-ECC88-6DJ8-A-frame-E88CC-6922-7308-E188CC-/261239372462?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd3147aae
   
  2) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/matched-pair-Amperex-PQ-ECC88-6DJ8-A-frame-E88CC-6922-7308-E188CC-/261239372460?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd3147aac
   
   
  E: btw, I found opportunity from my country webshop to order E188CC/7308 for only 27€ piece ;P Unfortunately there are no pics or info other than that they are made in US. Still thinking about pulling trigger on that. This is a large, know & safe electronic components importer website/company, so it should be safe and accurate.


----------



## Justlog

I do not know if what I seek is inside this thread but ill just ask because that will be probably a faster route for me to get my answer, did anyone in here had any chance to listen to the aune T1 with an IEM?


----------



## Magirush

Just an update- I'm loving my aune t1, and the amperex PQs I have.
  I've got another question for you guys, though.  Does the tube socket ever need replacing?  I'm just wondering if pulling out tubes and plugging them in again damages the metal over a period of time.
  If so, will any 6922/6dj8 socket work?
  I don't imagine that I will have to do this, but I'm just making sure.
  Edit: A couple pages back someone mentioned a tube socket saver.  Might pick that up.


----------



## teb1013

magirush said:


> Edit: A couple pages back someone mentioned a tube socket saver.  Might pick that up.




Me too, I'm always nervous about plugging and unplugging tubes too often for fear of loosening the socket. Luckily I like my NOS Amperex JAN 7308 green (1968) so much that I don't expect to do much rolling for a while. Still the socket saver sounds like a worthwhile investment.


----------



## CoiL

sorry guys, did some more digging and found that there are some GAC coded OG`s with O-ring getters also but they are rare and are probably made right before transitional single leg dimple disc version.


----------



## tommo21

coil said:


> sorry guys, did some more digging and found that there are some GAC coded OG`s with O-ring getters also but they are rare and are probably made right before transitional single leg dimple disc version.




I actually am waiting for a pair of GAC OG's with O-ring getters

Have received a shipment og 6n23P's today. 5 Voshkods and 2 Reflektors. The Voshkods(Rockets) Date, 69, 70, 73, 75 and 80. The Reflektors Date 64 and 67. Curios to find out how the different years will sound.


----------



## Magirush

Can anyone confirm if this is a good buy?  http://www.tubemonger.com/NOVIB_Socket_Saver_with_Vibration_Red_B9A_NOVAL_p/novib-cos.htm
  Or if this will work in the aune socket?  A previous poster appears to be using his just fine.
  I guess what I want to know if there is a better option for the money, as in a high quality replacement socket for the aune or something like that.


----------



## CoiL

Kind of silly question imo but yes, it will work in Aune T1 socket. I don`t know it this is better or not but it`s alternative: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6PC-GOLD-Vintage-Tube-9Pin-Saver-Testing-Socket-12AX7-12AU7-6922-6DJ8-ECC82-ECC8-/251275356117?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3a812da7d5


----------



## evilhippie

magirush said:


> Can anyone confirm if this is a good buy?  http://www.tubemonger.com/NOVIB_Socket_Saver_with_Vibration_Red_B9A_NOVAL_p/novib-cos.htm
> 
> Or if this will work in the aune socket?  A previous poster appears to be using his just fine.
> I guess what I want to know if there is a better option for the money, as in a high quality replacement socket for the aune or something like that.




I use the same socket savers in my tube equipment, including the T1 I have. I think these are about the best sockets you can get for the money... expensive but well worth it, if only for the piece of mind.


----------



## Devmoo

Hey guys, i'm having a little problem with my T1 about a month in...
  When I power it on I don't hear anything from my headphones until the blue light turns on. But then once the blue lights on in the tube and it's powered I get this static-like rustling sound from the left headphone. I'm almost certain it's the tube by now.. this is disappointing since it's only been a month or two. I'm REALLY hoping it's the tube though, so I can just get a even more upgraded tube. I'm certain it's not my headphones, i've tried them on various other devices and it's NOT the headphones. Please to god, it be the tube though. Anyway I don't believe it's even affecting the sound quality but I almost can hear the kick drum getting distorted.... I'm not sure if it's just my songs.  Anybody else experience issues like this?
   
  And can anybody reccomend some easy to get, great sounding tubes for under 60$ that I can get in Canada.


----------



## inphu510n

devmoo said:


> Hey guys, i'm having a little problem with my T1 about a month in...
> When I power it on I don't hear anything from my headphones until the blue light turns on. But then once the blue lights on in the tube and it's powered I get this static-like rustling sound from the left headphone. I'm almost certain it's the tube by now.. this is disappointing since it's only been a month or two. I'm REALLY hoping it's the tube though, so I can just get a even more upgraded tube. I'm certain it's not my headphones, i've tried them on various other devices and it's NOT the headphones. Please to god, it be the tube though. Anyway I don't believe it's even affecting the sound quality but I almost can hear the kick drum getting distorted.... I'm not sure if it's just my songs.  Anybody else experience issues like this?
> 
> And can anybody reccomend some easy to get, great sounding tubes for under 60$ that I can get in Canada.




It's the tube.
Try cleaning the pins with the backside of an xacto knife to clean off any oxidation on them. They should be shiny.
Try re-seating the tube after that.
There's several tube guides around this thread. For that kind of money I'd look at German or Holland made 7308 tubes.


----------



## Salvatore

Yeah definitely the tube. I've had several similar cases. Distorted rattling uneven sound.


----------



## penmarker

I have the same problem currently, also from the left channel. The tube needs to be very hot before the distortion goes away. I cover it with a beanie so the heat stays, but it heats up the whole unit. 

Currently waiting for a replacement tube.


----------



## teb1013

devmoo said:


> And can anybody reccomend some easy to get, great sounding tubes for under 60$ that I can get in Canada.




This is the Amperex 7308 I got from Upscale Audio. It cost $50 USD (about $52 Canadian, I think) for a Driver Grade NOS tube and it sounds beautiful. http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html Unfortunately I don't know what Upscale charges for "international" shipping. I understand it is outrageous to the Euro zone, but it may not be bad to Canada (I hope). 

I have the 6922 EH which came with my T1 but is sold pretty cheaply from this place (good but not near the Amperex, http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6dj8 They also offer Teslas which have had some good reviews on this thread. You may want to search this thread for reviews. Once again, I don't know postage costs. Good luck in your search.


----------



## Magirush

Tube socket protector arrived in 2 days, and on a Saturday no less.  Very impressed with that.  I'm not entirely sure of the purpose of this, though- It's supposed to protect the socket, but it still jiggles about when replacing tubes.  And I'm not sure how it can improve sound quality when it still plugs into the original socket, and doesn't replace it.
  But if it is protecting it in some way, then it's worth the purchase.


----------



## inphu510n

magirush said:


> Tube socket protector arrived in 2 days, and on a Saturday no less.  Very impressed with that.  I'm not entirely sure of the purpose of this, though- It's supposed to protect the socket, but it still jiggles about when replacing tubes.  And I'm not sure how it can improve sound quality when it still plugs into the original socket, and doesn't replace it.
> But if it is protecting it in some way, then it's worth the purchase.




Yeah, unless you're doing a bunch of rolling I don't see the point. I've never researched the reasons behind using socket savers but I do know that constant and repeated insertions will wear out the socket's friction tabs. When that happens it's no bueno. The tube pins stop making solid contact with the tabs and you get a bunch of symptoms in your audio.
As far as it making your audio better somehow... Unless your socket is already loose I call bullsh!t. It's introducing another resistance for the electricity to flow through. If anything it would negatively impact audio. Again that's if you're not experiencing issues related to loosened socket tabs.


----------



## Magirush

I agree.
  What I'm wondering now, is if it's possible to replace the actual aune tube socket.  Because if it is, then I don't have to worry about wear, as I can just replace the tube socket.


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





magirush said:


> I agree.
> What I'm wondering now, is if it's possible to replace the actual aune tube socket.  Because if it is, then I don't have to worry about wear, as I can just replace the tube socket.


 
  Oh you definitely can. Tube sockets are quite inexpensive.
  It only depends on whether you're proficient at desoldering and soldering.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> Yeah, unless you're doing a bunch of rolling I don't see the point. I've never researched the reasons behind using socket savers but I do know that constant and repeated insertions will wear out the socket's friction tabs. When that happens it's no bueno. The tube pins stop making solid contact with the tabs and you get a bunch of symptoms in your audio.
> As far as it making your audio better somehow... Unless your socket is already loose I call bullsh!t. It's introducing another resistance for the electricity to flow through. If anything it would negatively impact audio. Again that's if you're not experiencing issues related to loosened socket tabs.


 
   
  +1. I don't see the point either with T1. It's different story with Lyr, for example, because the socket saver lifts the socket insertion point higher and makes rolling way easier. If somebody says such savers improve sound quality I call it bs too.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





magirush said:


> It's supposed to protect the socket, but it still jiggles about when replacing tubes.  And I'm not sure how it can improve sound quality when it still plugs into the original socket, and doesn't replace it.


 


> Anti-vibration Base* is filled with *silicone to reduce microphonics*.


   

       It`s supposed to jiggle. But it`s usefulness comes in play only in "moving" equipment like guitar amplifiers where the speaker cabinet makes the tubes "rattle" and microphonics come into play - thats what is meant by "improving" sound quality.
   
  When you are crazy tuberoller (like I am I guess  ) then it might save you original Aune T1 socket wear-out, thus you don`t have to open it to do desoldering and re-soldering new socket and helps to sell item "as new". Though you have to tube-roll a LOT to wear those pins out. For me socket saver is also pointless and since I`m certainly keeping my Aune T1 until it "dies" then I find easier to replace the original socket 
   
  Edit: Anyone willing to give a try on these? Miniwatt-Dario ECC86 green label: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-TUBE-ECC86-MINIWATT-/111005245853?pt=FR_Image_Son_Vintage&hash=item19d86da19d
   
  I have yellow label Miniwatt-Dario PCC189`s and ECC189 - they all are very good! Thinking about that green label to be my first ECC86.


----------



## Devmoo

Wow guys ..  i'm so sad my Aune T1 tube is now completely broken. I get a TON of distortion and a bunch of crackling from the left channel in my ear phones.. I can say i'm quite dissapointed. I don't know what could have caused this so early on?!?! it's only been 2 months. Not even. Do you guys know what could have caused my tube to do this? I did move my t1 around to my moms and dads house. but only ONE time. I know it's not portable but i've been doing it very cautiously and safely. Unless it dropped when I was away for some odd reason I can't see why this happened to my tube. It was "The best ver" 6922-EH tube from Ebay. Yeah, some best tube. Now I can't use my T1 until I get a replacement tube. My dads going to wonder why it broke so quick. Can anybody suggest reasons why this could have happened? did I just get a unlucky tube or what? I'm trusting you guys that it's the tubes issue... I don't want to buy another one and find out it was the actual device . Is there ANY way to test the Aune and make sure it is the tubes issue, something you guys were saying like a bypass?
   
  EDIT: http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/6H23n-EB-6922 i'm thinking about getting this Tube, is it good and will it work?
   
  Alright this is so weird.. now I just put this thing on and it seems to be fine, then it goes out when I move the T1, I pushed on the T1 a bit and it came back... are you guys sure it's the tube?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





devmoo said:


> Wow guys ..  i'm so sad *my Aune T1 tube is now completely broken*. I get a TON of distortion and a bunch of crackling from the left channel in my ear phones.. I can say i'm quite dissapointed. I don't know what could have caused this so early on?!?! it's only been 2 months. Not even. Do you guys know what could have caused my tube to do this? I did move my t1 around to my moms and dads house. but only ONE time. I know it's not portable but i've been doing it very cautiously and safely. Unless it dropped when I was away for some odd reason I can't see why this happened to my tube. It was "The best ver" 6922-EH tube from Ebay. Yeah, some best tube. Now I can't use my T1 until I get a replacement tube. My dads going to wonder why it broke so quick. Can anybody suggest reasons why this could have happened? did I just get a unlucky tube or what? I'm trusting you guys that it's the tubes issue... I don't want to buy another one and find out it was the actual device . Is there ANY way to test the Aune and make sure it is the tubes issue, something you guys were saying like a bypass?
> 
> EDIT: http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/6H23n-EB-6922 i'm thinking about getting this Tube, is it good and will it work?


 
   
  So is it your T1 or tube that is broken? If EH is broken then it's only good for you because you should anyways get something better to replace that  Try to use your T1 without the tube and see if the SS part is ok. I've been taking my T1 to Helsinki and back without any problems whatsoever. Usually it's the tube that causes problems (I've had several defective). They are like light bulbs after all so there is no guaranteed life age. You might get 5000+ hours or just a couple of hours (if unlucky).


----------



## Devmoo

Can you tell me how to check the SS part please? Right now my only concern is that the T1 itself is okay. I don't mind buying another tube.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





devmoo said:


> Can you tell me how to check the SS part please? Right now my only concern is that the T1 itself is okay. I don't mind buying another tube.


 
  Use the RCA line in jack from the back of the Aune T1 and it will bypass the tube buffer. The tube buffer only runs when you use it through USB as a DAC.


----------



## McKajVah

devmoo said:


> Wow guys ..  i'm so sad my Aune T1 tube is now completely broken. I get a TON of distortion and a bunch of crackling from the left channel in my ear phones.. I can say i'm quite dissapointed. I don't know what could have caused this so early on?!?! it's only been 2 months. Not even. Do you guys know what could have caused my tube to do this? I did move my t1 around to my moms and dads house. but only ONE time. I know it's not portable but i've been doing it very cautiously and safely. Unless it dropped when I was away for some odd reason I can't see why this happened to my tube. It was "The best ver" 6922-EH tube from Ebay. Yeah, some best tube. Now I can't use my T1 until I get a replacement tube. My dads going to wonder why it broke so quick. Can anybody suggest reasons why this could have happened? did I just get a unlucky tube or what? I'm trusting you guys that it's the tubes issue... I don't want to buy another one and find out it was the actual device . Is there ANY way to test the Aune and make sure it is the tubes issue, something you guys were saying like a bypass?
> 
> 
> EDIT: http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/6H23n-EB-6922
> ...




Hi. I've been having the exact same problem with my aune t1 as well, but on mine it's the right channel. It does get better as it gets warm, but there is still some crackling all the time. I have about 15 different tubes and they all are the same... My "solid state" part of the amp has no problems, so it's the "buffer" stage. 
I've tried to open it to check for problems, but could not find anything. I think I'll try to go over it with my soldering iron, just to iron out any "cold solders". I'll also check with my voltmeter. 

To me it sounds like you have the same problem as me. I also think there was a other user earlier with the same problem, and he had to send it back. Sorry...


----------



## CoiL

Devmoo, if it`s still the tube problem I would not buy that 6N23-EB for that money. If you are short on money and you liked how 6922EH tube sounded (airy, big soundstage, sparkly highs and with "extended" bass), then I would get JJ E88CC or JAN-Philips from that store. Heck, since 6922EH is cheap, would even get this tube again. Although there are quite lot cases about 6922EH tubes being dead too soon. Well seems I have got good one. You could never know how your Aune T1 was handled during transport and it (or tube) might got damaged before and now you are having results of that. 
   
  Btw, what music genre do you listen mostly? Then we can maybe recommend more proper sounding tube for you.
   
  But if it`s not the tube problem, try send it back to seller if you still can and ask for replacement unit. Personally, I would open Aune and check for loose/bad soldering. Considering that the sound gets 100% ok when you move Aune a bit, then it could be just loose soldering. But first thing would be to sort out if its tube or not.
   
  Edit:

 Someone in this thread was comparing ELE EL-D01 USB DAC against Aune T1 and was saying it`s better than Aune T1. Well, after receiving my ELE DAC and comparing it against Aune T1 - no competition, Aune T1 is better. 
  But to be honest, ELE does very good job if considering the price around 15$. If you`re somebody who is not crazy about tiny details in audio and just want good sounding audio with cheap price & portability, then ELE is great choice!


----------



## Devmoo

Hey man, thanks for the help. I don't really think I can send it back now, it was a ebay seller and it's been 2 months. I'm really hoping it's the tube now.. I wish local stores had these kind of things so I could just TEST it.. 
   
  If it's the tubes issue I don't want to get EH again because I want something that is good and will actually last. First impression on that tube is a bad experience for me if it lasted that long. 
   
  And I really do care about my quality so I would not be able to go with the ELE dac. Thanks guys though i'll see if it's the problem.
   
  EDIT: Also I listen mostly to EDM, Chill, hip hop.


----------



## tommo21

Trying out a 6N1P-EB tube today. Playing on my M-Audio DSM-3 Monitors from my Aune T1. Bought them after a tip from Rock-Grotto and Lyr tube rolling thread. They are Voshkod Rockets from 1974. At first there was static noise and the bass sounded horrible, but when the tubes warmed up and after a few hours they now sound great, especially playing Dire Straits Brothers In Arms SACD ->Flac. Theres unbelivable bass extension and slam, nice mids, and a clean upper frequency range, possible a bit rolled of in the treble. There's also possibly a little bit recessed upper mid. Good stereo imaging, but maybe not so much in depth. They're really engaging and fun. I like them really well. They might change more after a few more hours, so it can get better...but also worse

I have also taken this newfound head-fi passion a little bit further, and ordered me a Project Ember amp from G1217. I got so many different tubes, and this amp can handle plenty different 9-pin tubes.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





devmoo said:


> I listen mostly to EDM, Chill, hip hop.


 
  Then I recommend you to get 6922EH again or cheap Tungsram PCC88 from eBay. For me 6922EH is still one of the best tubes for electronic/dubstep/hip-hop/house etc. music (with external speakers). For headphones Tungsram PCC88 is littlebit better due to tighter bass & kick. Also JAN Sylvania 6922 green label is great choice but it`s hard to find and not so cheap.
  JJ E88CC should also be airy sounding with large soundstage as I have read but I don`t have it to compare.
   
  One thing is sure - don`t get 6N23P for these genres!


----------



## Devmoo

Thanks dude, I just tested my T1 with the back with my TV audio and it works without the  tube!! YESS!!! I can't wait to get my new tube. Thanks everybody.


----------



## CoiL

And what tube did you buy? Like I said, 6N23P isn`t good for these genres you listen. Btw, don`t cheer so early, problem might lay in DAC part of Aune T1 not the tube alone.


----------



## Devmoo

Well can you recommend a more high end version of that tube. I've got the money to spend on one that may be more durable. I don't want that tube again. I'm using headphones btw


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





tommo21 said:


> Trying out a 6N1P-EB tube today. Playing on my M-Audio DSM-3 Monitors from my Aune T1. Bought them after a tip from Rock-Grotto and Lyr tube rolling thread. They are Voshkod Rockets from 1974. At first there was static noise and the bass sounded horrible, but when the tubes warmed up and after a few hours they now sound great, especially playing Dire Straits Brothers In Arms SACD ->Flac. Theres unbelivable bass extension and slam, nice mids, and a clean upper frequency range, possible a bit rolled of in the treble. There's also possibly a little bit recessed upper mid. Good stereo imaging, but maybe not so much in depth. They're really engaging and fun. I like them really well. They might change more after a few more hours, so it can get better...but also worse
> 
> I have also taken this newfound head-fi passion a little bit further, and ordered me a Project Ember amp from G1217. I got so many different tubes, and this amp can handle plenty different 9-pin tubes.


 
   
  Good post! Let us know how the Ember compares to T1. I'm also interested to hear your impressions on anniversaries and X1. Just got my X1 and the annies are so much better with music. X1 are now my gaming/entertainment headphones. Looking at your headphone inventory I'd say we have quite similar headphone taste 
   
  btw have you tried using M-stage with T1?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





devmoo said:


> Well can you recommend a more high end version of that tube. I've got the money to spend on one that may be more durable. I don't want that tube again. I'm using headphones btw


 
  More high-end version of 6N23-EB? EB is already "high-end" military version. It`s just not so good tube sonically for the genres you listen. Or did you mean 6922EH? You could get gold pin 6922EH but imho it`s pointless. And ditching one tube just because you got broken/bad one is also stupid imo. It is great cheap tube for your genres. You could just as easily get some other more expensive tube that will go bad same way.
  Firstly figure out if it`s tube that is causing your Aune T1 problems or not and then start thinking about other more expensive tubes. Lets say you are going to get tube worth around 50$ and when you get it you discover your Aune T1 still having same problems? It isn`t fun, isn`t it? 
  Dude, start reading this forum. I already gave you recommendations and the are lot of information about tubes in this thread. And sorry for what I`m about to say - stop being p u s s y about tubes breaking and wanting more durable tubes! Like Salvatore already told you, tubes are like light bulbs, they don`t last forever and you never know how good tube you get. If you buy a brand new tube it might sound awful at the beginning. It takes time to burn it in and when it does, it probably has it`s best sounding period between 90% to 60% from the tube lifetime. Under 60% of tube lifetime left, it probably gets worse, maybe increased hiss, hum, distortion, uneven channels etc. Of course these are rough figures I`m giving but just to bring you down on earth. I`m going to repeat my recommendation - for headphones and those genres you mentioned, get cheap NOS Tungsram PCC88 from ebay. And if it calms your mind - PCC88 should last longer due to higher heater voltage specification. 
   
  Here is link for you: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCC88-TUNGSRAM-PAIR-OF-TUBES-NOS-PERFECT-SHAPE-MADE-IN-HUNGARY-/221252630714?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3383af38ba


----------



## tommo21

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> btw have you tried using M-stage with T1?


 
  I hadn't actually thought of that. That's someting I have to try. Sounds like a good idea


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





tommo21 said:


> I hadn't actually thought of that. That's someting I have to try. Sounds like a good idea


 
   
  Please do and report back to us. If the results are positive I know what I'll be buying next


----------



## marts30

So, if I run my yamaha receiver/speakers through this as a dac will the sound benefit/change from the tube(s)?


----------



## CoiL

You get benefit/change from tube only if you are using USB as Aune T1 input. RCA input doesn`t involve tube buffer in audio chain. It has been repeated so many times in this thread already.


----------



## icecap

devmoo said:


> Thanks dude, I just tested my T1 with the back with my TV audio and it works without the  tube!! YESS!!! I can't wait to get my new tube. Thanks everybody.







devmoo said:


> Well can you recommend a more high end version of that tube. I've got the money to spend on one that may be more durable. I don't want that tube again. I'm using headphones btw




It works ok in line in doesn't eliminate the fact the dac circuit could be the problem. In that case, changing a tube won't solve your problem.

like what coil mentioned, a spoilt tube in a presumably short usage, if it really is spoilt in your case, doesn't mean the entire production of the series is crocked.. I feel 6922EH is a rather good tube in its own right.. The dryness can be appreciated with some dark headphones.. The air and imaging it has also can compliment certain cans quite well..

That brought us to this point, maybe you can let us know what headphones you using, so we can give a more appropriate selections for you.. One man's meat is another man's poison.. Someone can tell u telefunken cca is great (since u want high end), but who knows a tungsram e88cc red label can satisfy u already?


----------



## tommo21

Quote: 





coil said:


> You get benefit/change from tube only if you are using USB as Aune T1 input. RCA input doesn`t involve tube buffer in audio chain. It has been repeated so many times in this thread already.


 

 Who said I was gonna use the RCA input? Computer->USB->Aune T1->RCA Out->RCA-in Matrix M-Stage.....voila...tubes and opamps galore..and also actually a "real" pre-amp funtion for my M-Audio DSM-3's as well


----------



## CoiL

My post was meant for marts30. Less ego-tripping?  Don`t take it seriously, it`s meant through humor prism. Surely you just missed that one post between 
   


marts30 said:


> So, if I run my yamaha receiver/speakers through this as a dac will the sound benefit/change from the tube(s)?


 
  Forgot to mention that you should use direct-mode on your receiver otherwise receiver DAC will also alter the sound.


----------



## tommo21

Haha....sorry... but if it weren't for our ego's, who would we then be?


----------



## marts30

Quote: 





coil said:


> My post was meant for marts30. Less ego-tripping?  Don`t take it seriously, it`s meant through humor prism. Surely you just missed that one post between
> 
> Forgot to mention that you should use direct-mode on your receiver otherwise receiver DAC will also alter the sound.


 
   
  OK Thanks


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> ! Like Salvatore already told you, tubes are like light bulbs, they don`t last forever and you never know how good tube you get. If you buy a brand new tube it might sound awful at the beginning. It takes time to burn it in and when it does, it probably has it`s best sounding period between 90% to 60% from the tube lifetime. Under 60% of tube lifetime left, it probably gets worse, maybe increased hiss, hum, distortion, uneven channels etc. Of course these are rough figures I`m giving but just to bring you down on earth.



This 90-60 general time frame is distressing. I have just gotten my Amperex 7308 green where I like it, lovely tone, good soundstage. I don't like the idea that It may start to deteriorate that soon, but I wouldn't give up "tube sound" for SS reliability. Coil thanks for your ongoing informative posts.


----------



## Devmoo

Okay.. I'll try to get the PCC88 or the 6922 EH again then. Thanks Coil ahahahah, I guess I am being a "p u s s y" because I wasn't so lucky with my first tube. I'm just skeptical now.. that's all. One last question though, i'm probably going to get the EH or PCC. But my local store could order this for me in about 10 days: http://www.long-mcquade.com/products/13147/ Has any one had experience with this tube for EDM? It looks like the american version of the EH on the Tube websites. Same price range, etc.


----------



## CoiL

Devmoo, that JJ E88CC should be also good, at least same good as 6922EH and I would go fot it if you don`t dare to order from eBay. 
 Personally, I would take that Tungsram PCC88 pair from eBay.
  Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> This 90-60 general time frame is distressing. I have just gotten my Amperex 7308 green where I like it, lovely tone, good soundstage. I don't like the idea that It may start to deteriorate that soon, but I wouldn't give up "tube sound" for SS reliability. Coil thanks for your ongoing informative posts.


 
   
  Don`t take those figures so seriously, they might be totally wrong  It`s just my perception from what I have read and experienced. 
  Quote: 





tommo21 said:


> Haha....sorry... but if it weren't for our ego's, who would we then be?


 
  Yeah, but there are different ego-levels (not saying you have bad one, I don`t know you) 
  Sorry, this is crazy-offtopic but some interesting reading (might be total crap for you): 


Spoiler: Links%20for%20reading%20about%20ego



http://www.jeshua.net/lightworker/jeshua6.htm , http://www.jeshua.net/lightworker/jeshua7.htm , http://www.jeshua.net/lightworker/jeshua8.htm , http://www.jeshua.net/lightworker/jeshua8a.htm


   
   . Note - I`m not religious in any way but very interested about what different religions have to offer for spiritual growth.


----------



## inphu510n

CoiL. You're awesome for posting those links about ego.
  There's a lot to be said for attempting to destroy it. 
   
  Personally I found the EH6922 to be better than the JJ6922 (with about 15minutes of burn in....). The most striking thing that I heard was less bass quantity.
  Grab the Tungsram before I do!
   
  Man this amp is really amazing for the money.
  I've got several hundred dollars wrapped up in a Schiit Modi, cables, 40+ tubes and a Little Dot MKII and I'm beginning to like the Aune T1 more. I'm really quite curious to hear the higher end tubes in this thing.


----------



## tommo21

Religion is the cause of all bad things on this planet......I'm very happy being an atheist...as long as I manage to stay alive

I'm still enjoying my 6n1P-EB tube in the Aune though..maybe even more so today. 

Got my Amperex Orange Globes with O-Getter today as well.


----------



## tommo21

inphu510n said:


> CoiL. You're awesome for posting those links about ego.
> There's a lot to be said for attempting to destroy it.
> 
> Personally I found the EH6922 to be better than the JJ6922 (with about 15minutes of burn in....). The most striking thing that I heard was less bass quantity.
> ...




As a cheap tube I would also recommend Jan Philips 6922, one of the better "new" ones. I found it miles better than EH6922 and JJ...but my JJ's were the E88CC kind...


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





tommo21 said:


> Religion is the cause of all bad things on this planet......I'm very happy being an atheist...as long as I manage to stay alive
> 
> I'm still enjoying my 6n1P-EB tube in the Aune though..maybe even more so today.
> 
> Got my Amperex Orange Globes with O-Getter today as well.


 
  Those OG`s should "blow you mind" compared to 6N1P-EB I belive and hope so


----------



## caracara08

Quote: 





tommo21 said:


> Religion is the cause of all bad things on this planet......I'm very happy being an atheist...as long as I manage to stay alive


 
   
  People and power are the cause of all bad things, not religion.  Just because people say they do things in the name of religion, does not mean they are actually doing it for religion.  Its about power.... is my opinion.


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





tommo21 said:


> As a cheap tube I would also recommend Jan Philips 6922, one of the better "new" ones. I found it miles better than EH6922 and JJ...but my JJ's were the E88CC kind...


 
   
  Better than the Amperex OG?


----------



## tommo21

inphu510n said:


> Better than the Amperex OG?




Seriously doubt it, but haven't tried my OG's yet...just got them today. Trying to leave my tubes in for a few days..or at least 30 hours so I can make my mind up before I roll on....


----------



## Devmoo

Haha already bought the JJ guys. I'll tell you my personal opinion on it when it arrives. Also I'm just listening to the right channel with my T1 since it still works right now balanced of the left ear till I get my new tube. But is it normal for the tube to get burning hot within like 20 minutes?


----------



## Brendo09

Devmoo, I'd be cautious. in fact, in your situation, rather than risk screwing up the T1, just hook up your source to the RCA in until your new tubes arrive.
   
  You still get your music that way, and there's little risk. A burning hot tube isn't a good thing. Mine runs 8 hours a day 5 days a week, and it's barely more than warm to touch.


----------



## aedeau

woo hoo!!! just got these in the mail: 2x 6N23P / E88CC / 6DJ8 Tubes. NOS

plugged it in already and listening now.


----------



## ifelsethen

hi, long time lurker....
   
   
  just got my unit from massdrop. so far so good. 
   
  anyone know if/where i can buy another power supply (110V)?  
   
  id like to keep a set consisting of a spare power supply, USB cable, tube, and cans (the latter 3 is easy!) in two locations that way i can simply bring the main unit with me to enjoy both at work and at home.
   
  any help would be appreciated!


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





ifelsethen said:


> hi, long time lurker....
> 
> 
> just got my unit from massdrop. so far so good.
> ...


 
  I assume you could email them and ask.
  sales@auneaudio.com
   
  I think there are one or two other people on the group buy website that would like to know this information as well.


----------



## SanJulesSur

Quote: 





ifelsethen said:


> anyone know if/where i can buy another power supply (110V)?


 
   
  Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> I assume you could email them and ask.
> sales@auneaudio.com
> 
> I think there are one or two other people on the group buy website that would like to know this information as well.


 
   
   
  I can confirm that you can get another power supply by contacting them through sales@auneaudio.com
   
  The sales rep's name is Candy.  
   
  Standard price for the power supply was $10 USD plus shipping to your area. My total came to $38 USD because of the shipping through expedited EMS w/ tracking #
   
 [size=12.800000190734863px] "[size=12.800000190734863px]Hello [redacted][/size][/size]

  [size=12.800000190734863px]      Thanks for your email , the price for the transformer is $10USD ,  the[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]shipping cost to USA will $26.5USD by EMS  , so total $36.5 USD , paypal[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]fees is $1.5USD , so total send us for $38USD[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]Our paypal account is :[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]ts@hifidiy.net[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]Waiting for your [/size]
  [size=12.800000190734863px]early reply , also please tell me if you paid , also tell[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]me your shipping name , and phone number for sending goods , anything can[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]contact me, thanks for that[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]Regards[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]Candy[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]-----邮件原件-----[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]发件人:[/size][size=12.666666984558105px] [redacted][/size][size=12.800000190734863px] [mailto:[/size][size=12.666666984558105px] [redacted][/size][size=12.800000190734863px]][/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]发送时间: 2013年6月8日 星期六 15:33[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]收件人: aune[/size][size=12.800000190734863px][/size]
 [size=12.800000190734863px]主题: Shipping Address for T1 transformer"[/size]
   
  [size=12.800000190734863px]Candy was helpful and quick to reply. Her native tongue is Chinese though so I did have minor difficulty communicating but it was still overall a pleasant experience.[/size]


----------



## inphu510n

Whoa, Aune is part of HiFiDIY?
That makes sense given their reputation and price/quality range.
Thanks!


----------



## SanJulesSur

Yep. Apparently it's their parent company or something like that.  Kinda like with Hifiman and Head-Direct I guess? haha
   
  No problem!


----------



## aedeau

sanjulessur said:


> I can confirm that you can get another power supply by contacting them through sales@auneaudio.com
> 
> The sales rep's name is Candy.
> 
> Standard price for the power supply was $10 USD plus shipping to your area. My total came to $38 USD because of the shipping through expedited EMS w/ tracking #




Excellent news, I need a 220-240V power adapter


----------



## ifelsethen

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> I assume you could email them and ask.
> sales@auneaudio.com


 
  Quote: 





sanjulessur said:


> I can confirm that you can get another power supply by contacting them through sales@auneaudio.com


 
   
  You guys are awesome, thanks for the quick response! 
   
  And the price?? $10!  Amazing!


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





> Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I`m not sure if I`m correct but rockets with star logo should be worse than without. I think someone in here also mentioned that they are not the same tube.


> Originally Posted by *inphu510n* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Personally I found the EH6922 to be better than the JJ6922 (with about 15minutes of burn in....). The most striking thing that I heard was less bass quantity.
> Grab the Tungsram before I do!


 
  I think you are mistaking by taking that 6922EH bass "quantity" as good thing. Well yeah, with electronic music it`s good, has nice bass extension but with rock/metal/progressive it`s too much - it lacks tightness, kick and mids section isn`t so good.


----------



## Devmoo

I'm not really that concerned about the bass quantity right now. I just want my music to sound *good* again  
  I'm sure the JJ has it's own perks over the EH. I'm not a total bass head even know I listen to EDM. And I do enjoy many other genres too. I love anything besides country.. lol
  If the new tube does solve the problem though,  I'll grab the Tungsrams for later


----------



## aedeau

so after quite a few hours of listening, I can't really tell any difference between the stock chinese tube. I think maybe the rocket one seems a bit more open sounding. Almost like the vocals have less volume, but other than that no difference for me. The 1 min it takes to swap tubes and warm up doesn't really help when trying to do a direct comparison. Think I'm done with tube rolling 

EDIT: actually, one has a star logo, which I've been using since yesterday, and the other no star logo, just the rocket. Time to swap them over and see if there's a difference


----------



## teb1013

aedeau said:


> so after quite a few hours of listening, I can't really tell any difference between the stock chinese tube. I think maybe the rocket one seems a bit more open sounding. Almost like the vocals have less volume, but other than that no difference for me. The 1 min it takes to swap tubes and warm up doesn't really help when trying to do a direct comparison. Think I'm done with tube rolling
> 
> EDIT: actually, one has a star logo, which I've been using since yesterday, and the other no star logo, just the rocket. Time to swap them over and see if there's a difference




When I first got my T1 I expected dramatic easy to detect differences between tubes but this wasn't the case. The first things I noticed were a slightly more open sound and that some tubes (including the Voskhod) were more difficult to listen to over long sessions. It was this comfort with the sound of the 9622 EH over the rocket that was my first discovery that tubes did have a different sound that I could detect, despite age related hearing loss and tinnitus. By the time I broke my Amperex 7308 in I realized that I had found the perfect sound for me, liquid, with a marvelous soundstage. You may in time find a tube that just "feels right" rather than the dramatic differences that people with more golden ears notice.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





aedeau said:


> so after quite a few hours of listening, I can't really tell any difference between the stock chinese tube. I think maybe the rocket one seems a bit more open sounding. Almost like the vocals have less volume, but other than that no difference for me. The 1 min it takes to swap tubes and warm up doesn't really help when trying to do a direct comparison. Think I'm done with tube rolling
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  I belive that first tube that will make you really notice differences is Amperex OG. When I got my 6N23P, the main difference between 6922EH was soundstage size (air) and clarity. Like it`s been said many times in this thread 6N23P rockets & reflectors are foward-sounding tubes with quite small soundstage so It`s understood why you won`t notice much difference between stock chinese 6N11 & 6N23P. Also, for me they sound kind of "through the blanket". Seriously, try 6922EH or Amperex OG and you hear the clear difference.


----------



## White Lotus

I've heard people say that the AUNE T1 runs 6922 tubes at 24v, when ideally they should be run at 150v (and possibly higher).

Would this mean that the tube being used in the AUNE unit isn't actually having _that_ much of an influence on the sound,

Where as, a full-size tube amplifier, running the tubes at 150v and higher, would?


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





white lotus said:


> I've heard people say that the AUNE T1 runs 6922 tubes at 24v, when ideally they should be run at 150v (and possibly higher).
> 
> Would this mean that the tube being used in the AUNE unit isn't actually having _that_ much of an influence on the sound,
> 
> Where as, a full-size tube amplifier, running the tubes at 150v and higher, would?


 
  Not sure about your claim numbers-wise but the tube swapping in the Aune T1 makes a tremendous and obvious difference to the sound.


----------



## Paspie

About the distortion, it appears that rather than being something incredibly complicated (such as the socket, pins etc.) its just that the tube/entire unit quite often gets incredibly hot to the touch and I find myself having to unplug and reseat the tube regularly to allow it to cool. I can only hope that over several months/years that this won't damage anything and that the socket is replaceable if such and incidence occurs.
   
  Several of you may have already seen this video of mine, in which I had installed the unit in a space in my desk designed for a PC tower. It started to attract a serious amount of dust there, so I've moved it on top of it in the hope that performance endurance will improve somewhat. I'll keep you posted in case it happens to improve matters.


----------



## inphu510n

paspie said:


> Several of you may have already seen this video of mine, in which I had installed the unit in a space in my desk designed for a PC tower. It started to attract a serious amount of dust there, so I've moved it on top of it in the hope that performance endurance will improve somewhat. I'll keep you posted in case it happens to improve matters.




Did you move the T1 out of that cabinet? Desks like that are aesthetically nice but man... whoever started that trend had no idea what they were doing. My desk came with a PC area like yours and I immediately recognized it as a problem. Heat is an enemy of electronics and suffocating devices meant to use convection cooling will kill them.
Keep the T1 on your desktop if you already haven't put it there.
Mine has definitely gotten hot but it's not burning. I'm wondering if it might be a good idea to open it up and cut holes into the slot that runs the center circumference of the case. From what I can tell there's no ventilation built into the unit.


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> I belive that first tube that will make you really notice differences is Amperex OG. When I got my 6N23P, the main difference between 6922EH was soundstage size (air) and clarity. Like it`s been said many times in this thread 6N23P rockets & reflectors are foward-sounding tubes with quite small soundstage so It`s understood why you won`t notice much difference between stock chinese 6N11 & 6N23P. Also, for me they sound kind of "through the blanket". Seriously, try 6922EH or Amperex OG and you hear the clear difference.




Excellent point. Mine is an Amperex Green, but the wide soundstage and lovely tone create a noticeably different sound than the rockets. Expensive, but I found the difference well worth it.


----------



## MrEleventy

I have the same experience, didn't notice a major difference between 6922eh & 6n23p-eb but when I threw in an amperex orange globe... holy ****. Giant grin on my face.


----------



## inphu510n

white lotus said:


> I've heard people say that the AUNE T1 runs 6922 tubes at 24v, when ideally they should be run at 150v (and possibly higher).
> 
> Would this mean that the tube being used in the AUNE unit isn't actually having _that_ much of an influence on the sound,
> 
> Where as, a full-size tube amplifier, running the tubes at 150v and higher, would?




This depends on a number of design considerations. The 6DJ8 tube family can handle 150v and possibly more. Doing so apparently increases the quality of the audio. However, at those voltages the tube is no longer suitable for powering headphones and would be feeding many times the rates power inputs of most cans. Also, running at those voltages will absolutely decrease tube life. You're talking about tube pre amps which are not desktop components. The T1 is obviously a desktop amplifier meant for the lower power requirements of headphones.
I'd be curious to hear the difference between one of these tubes running at 24v vs 150v but I definitely don't have access to that kind of equipment.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> I have the same experience, didn't notice a major difference between 6922eh & 6n23p-eb


 
  Actually it`s weird that you didn`t notice difference between those. Although I don`t have EB version, just 6N23P reflector, I can make clear difference between 6922EH vs. 6N23P. Like I told before, main differences are that 6922EH definitely has lot larger soundstage & air, clarity, sparkly highs and extended bass. 6N23P is intimate, relatively small soundstage and for me sounds like "through the blanket". 
  Maybe it has something to do with headphones or source. Just checking - are you using one out of those - WASAPI, ASIO or KSP to "feed" T1 with audio code from PC? Some ppl seem to forget to set up their Aune T1 properly. For me switching from waveout/directsound to KSP or ASIO made clear difference. 
   
  But yeah, with Amperex OG everything just feels right and no fatigue with longer listening, very musical & enjoyable tube.


----------



## aedeau

I'm listening to some van halen hdcd remasters in foobar using the WASPI plugin and it sounds quite good on the T1. Compared it with my lexicon dac, and tbh I think the lexicon sounds cleaner. Maybe I need new headphones


----------



## CoiL

Again, I belive this clearer sound difference with lexicon comes from using 6N23P tubes with Aune T1. Stock chinese 6N11 & 6N23P aren`t "clean" sounding tubes, they are more for those who love "old" & intimate sound. Get a proper "clear" sounding tube not new headphones.
  For example Philips PCC189 is very good & clear sounding: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-PCC189-7ES8-PHILIPS-HEERLEN-FACTORY-NOS-NEW-OWN-BOX-/221248988451?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&hash=item338377a523
   
  It`s a good offer and I really recommend you to grab this deal. It`s basically same sounding as Lorenz PCC189 (Heerlen), Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen) & Amperex GAE OG PQ (Heerlen). Totally different league from 6N23P. And if you still won`t make difference compared to 6N11 & 6N23P then it must be your ears.
   
  Amperex OG GAC & GA8 are with more smooth & dynamic highs and bring out more mids section and more enjoyable for longer listening, especially with rock/metal/progressive/jazz.


----------



## joeq70

Hey, if anyone out there has a 6n23P Rocket Logo with rocket only (no other logo on it such as the star/badge thing), then I'm happy to trade a tube for it including the Ultron SQ PCC189. I also have others including an RCA, Matsu****a, Siemens, etc. Just shooot me a pm.


----------



## aedeau

I finally brought my T1 home and was able to do a direct comparison against my lexicon plugged into the same computer. Of the two rocket tubes I have, I prefer the one with the star logo as it has punchier bass. Tighter sounding, I guess. As I understand, people prefer the plain rocket logo tube more, not sure why.The bass on the plain rocket tube seems "sloppy" or "muddy", and the stock chinese tube is the most flat sounding I guess.

Compared with the lexicon, the star logo rocket tube in the T1 has the most similar sounding bass qualities, but bass is still better with the lexicon. I compared bass because my ears aren't that good and that was the easiest thing for me to hear. The test track I used was the first 20 seconds of "winning" by keith urban (16bit. 44khz flac, 967kbps bit rate) in foobar, using the WASPI event output plugin. All 3 of my tubes in the T1 have less treble when compared with the lexicon, which I guess is ultimately fatiguing, especially since my MDR-V6s seem to accentuate treble. 

In regards to music like diana krall or some live dire straits with piano bits, they sound better on the T1 regardless of which tube I use. Guess I'll keep listening and see what else I notice over time.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Hey, if anyone out there has a 6n23P Rocket Logo with rocket only (no other logo on it such as the star/badge thing), then I'm happy to trade a tube for it including the Ultron SQ PCC189. I also have others including an RCA, Matsu****a, Siemens, etc. Just shooot me a pm.


 
  You are willing to give gold label Ultron SQ PCC189 for rocket? O_o Sorry but I don`t understand. Well, seems to be matter of taste. Wish I had rocket to offer.


----------



## Salvatore

I have 2 but I'm keeping both. Cool looking and sounding tube.
   
  E: It's about synergy and I'm sure Magnums sound fantastic with T1 Rocket combo.


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> Actually it`s weird that you didn`t notice difference between those. Although I don`t have EB version, just 6N23P reflector, I can make clear difference between 6922EH vs. 6N23P. Like I told before, main differences are that 6922EH definitely has lot larger soundstage & air, clarity, sparkly highs and extended bass. 6N23P is intimate, relatively small soundstage and for me sounds like "through the blanket".
> Maybe it has something to do with headphones or source. Just checking - are you using one out of those - WASAPI, ASIO or KSP to "feed" T1 with audio code from PC? Some ppl seem to forget to set up their Aune T1 properly. For me switching from waveout/directsound to KSP or ASIO made clear difference.
> 
> But yeah, with Amperex OG everything just feels right and no fatigue with longer listening, very musical & enjoyable tube.




I'm running Foobar2K and I've had WASAPI event set up since my first dac/amp, the E10. T1 is my 3rd or 4th. Did a quick comparison and even now, I still don't notice a huge difference. The EB doesn't sound anything like your description of the non-EB version though. The soundstage isn't huge but it's not small by no means. It's more coherent than the 6922 as that it's more spherical. The EB just isn't as wide as the 6922EH but at least as deep. I find that EB is detailed but just not as sharply defined. I do need to add that I've only used the T1's amp when doing comparision as I prefer other amps over it. I have a slightly bright headphone already and the bright SS amp exacerbates that a bit too much and made things a bit too thin sounding.


----------



## CoiL

Thanks for info MrEleventy about EB. 
    
  Quote:


salvatore said:


> I have 2 but I'm keeping both. Cool looking and sounding tube.
> 
> E: It's about synergy and I'm sure Magnums sound fantastic with T1 Rocket combo.


 
   
  Yeah, probably it`s about that combo and synergy. Sometime I just wish I had the money to try other expensive cans because I`m starting to think too much "locked" to HD-681 mkII + Aune T1 combo. My tube reviews come only from that perspective, so with other combos other tubes might get more appreciation from me.


----------



## DMax99

Got mine yesterday. Very impressed with the sound quality, although the mids are not as clear as my Asus xonar essence one. However, the differences are quite small and with its 1/4 price compared to the Asus xonar essence one, it's definitely a great dac/Amp. 

*One question though, my black version has a led light that gives out white/yellow colour. I thought all aune t1 have blue led light under the tube?*


----------



## MrEleventy

it's white with a bluish tinge.


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> Thanks for info MrEleventy about EB.
> 
> Yeah, probably it`s about that combo and synergy. Sometime I just wish I had the money to try other expensive cans because I`m starting to think too much "locked" to HD-681 mkII + Aune T1 combo. My tube reviews come only from that perspective, so with other combos other tubes might get more appreciation from me.


 If you're satisfied with it, congrats. upgraditis is hell on wallets.  I bought a mm schiit stack thinking the modi might be better... nope!  Going on the FS thread. lol


----------



## joeq70

coil said:


> You are willing to give gold label Ultron SQ PCC189 for rocket? O_o Sorry but I don`t understand. Well, seems to be matter of taste. Wish I had rocket to offer.



Well, I was given the Ultron for free and I don't care for it, so I feel it's only fair for me to pass it along for a very reasonable price.


----------



## joeq70

salvatore said:


> I have 2 but I'm keeping both. Cool looking and sounding tube.
> 
> E: It's about synergy and I'm sure Magnums sound fantastic with T1 Rocket combo.



Exactly!


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> If you're satisfied with it, congrats. upgraditis is hell on wallets.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Yeah, lucky this combo is enough for me and probably won`t upgrade  Well, the thing is that I also like modding and making bang-for-a-buck products to their max with reasonable price/time/requirements. For me, Amperex OG GAC & Ultron SQ PCC189 is the "max" upgrade for Aune T1. Also, my wood version of HD-662F is beginning to take final shape


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> Yeah, lucky this combo is enough for me and probably won`t upgrade  Well, the thing is that I also like modding and making bang-for-a-buck products to their max with reasonable price/time/requirements. For me, Amperex OG GAC & Ultron SQ PCC189 is the "max" upgrade for Aune T1. Also, my wood version of HD-662F is beginning to take final shape




Yeah, I really like my combo too. I honestly should just stop looking at the FS threads and just enjoy what I have, blissfully ignorant. Hehe. I think I'm going to sell off my HD600s and the MM stack and be done with it. Bare minimum. Just have extra tubes on hand.


----------



## ifelsethen

Quote: 





aedeau said:


> Excellent news, I need a 220-240V power adapter


 
   
  If you, or anyone else cares, I can confirm they are flexible with regard to alternative shipping methods, as EMS seemed to expensive for my need.
   
  I was quoted a $10 shipping charge via China Air Post, with the understanding it will take longer to arrive and does not have the same tracking/insurance as EMS.
   
  The total to USA was $21 for a second power transformer, including paypal fees and shipping.  Great deal and will make it possible to have my amp usable in two locations!


----------



## DMax99

mreleventy said:


> it's white with a bluish tinge.




Oh? Mine is white with a yellow tinge


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





ifelsethen said:


> If you, or anyone else cares, I can confirm they are flexible with regard to alternative shipping methods, as EMS seemed to expensive for my need.
> 
> I was quoted a $10 shipping charge via China Air Post, with the understanding it will take longer to arrive and does not have the same tracking/insurance as EMS.
> 
> The total to USA was $21 for a second power transformer, including paypal fees and shipping.  Great deal and will make it possible to have my amp usable in two locations!


 
  Going to have to carry that thing in a pelican case or something with all that travel!


----------



## CoiL

Spoiler: Offtopic.%20New%20music.%20Karnivool%20-%20Asymmetry



Forgot to mention that Karnivool new album is available to listen: http://www.karnivool.com.au/listentoasymmetry


----------



## tommo21

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> btw have you tried using M-stage with T1?


 
  Well, have been trying to use the Aune T1 as "tube-buffer" to the M-stage today, but I feel it's not been very successful. Compared to listening to headphone out from the T1 I feel it looses the tube sound, and get's to solid state like. I have to say that the M-Stage hasn't been burned in and it's also total stock. No opamp change or class-a biasing. The T1 has now a Amperex OG in it. Been using both Fidelio X1 and also AKG K702.65. They both sound better with the T1, but also here I must say that both headphones are nib as of this week. So this is not a final impression or conclusion. Only thing I have to say that it's seldom a wise idea to add unnecessary links in to the chain if you don't have to. Which seems to be the initial conclusion with adding the M-Stage after the aune T1. The positive thing is that I now have hardware volume knob to my powered speakers, not bypassed as on the T1. The M-Stage also mute's outputs when headphones are in use.
   
  the Chain is: PC->Foobar/Wasapi-->USB/Out->Aune T1-> M-Stage-> Headphones/Speakers


----------



## Salvatore

Good info, thanks and keep us posted! Btw how do you like your anniversaries and X1 so far?
   
  E: Nevermind found your impressions on K702-65 thread. Glad you like your new toys


----------



## ifelsethen

inphu510n said:


> Going to have to carry that thing in a pelican case or something with all that travel!




well the idea is avoiding that!

i think if i have a tube, power supply and cables in both places i plan to use it, the main base station is pretty resilient and small enough to cart around by itself.


----------



## caracara08

edit: nm. I had the eq setting on I was trying out for my 2.0 speakers . nevermind me.


----------



## kamcok

Hey guys i'm new when it comes to tube amps and i just got my T1. I'm seriously surprised by the cleanliness of the sound that it produced. 
  I was also wondering, which types of tubes can be matched with the T1. Are there any types that I should avoid or does it not matter ? 
  I wanna try other tubes but i'm afraid that randomly pairing them up might damage one or the other.
   
  Thanks !


----------



## CoiL

Please someone put it into first post! It has been asked so many times!

*Tube types that will work with Aune T1:*
*6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 6N27P, 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
*E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, CV5358, M3624*


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





coil said:


> Please someone put it into first post! It has been asked so many times!
> 
> *Tube types that will work with Aune T1:*
> *6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 6N27P, 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
> *E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, CV5358, M3624*


 
  wish granted sir!


----------



## kamcok

coil said:


> Please someone put it into first post! It has been asked so many times!
> 
> *Tube types that will work with Aune T1:*
> *6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 6N27P, 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
> *E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, CV5358, M3624*


 
  I'm very sorry, I couldn't find it in the thread because of the number of pages
  Thank you very much though !


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> wish granted sir!


 
  Finally! ;D Thank you!


----------



## robrob

I just took delivery of an Amperex Jan gold pin 7308 from Upscale Audio. I opted for the platinum grade and had it cryogenically treated. I was very skeptical of being able to hear a difference between the stock 6922EH and the 7308. I was really expecting to be disappointed with the new tube. I'm by no means an audiophile but I've been blown away by how good my AKG240s sound with the T1 and 6922EH. I really didn't think it could get much better for a $100 pair of headphones but I was wrong. Holy **** was I wrong. The 7308 sounds much better than the 6922EH. I'm really astounded how much better the music sounds, especially percussion and bass and the soundstage is so much more "there." I primarily listen to rock, 80's and alternative but I tested the new tube with jazz and classical too. The difference between the tubes was very obvious.
   
  If you're sitting on the fence on upgrading the stock 6922EH or better yet the previous standard Chinese tube I say the $102 cost ($80 for platinum grade tube, $8 for cryogenic treatment, $14.65 shipping) of a premium tube is worth every penny.


----------



## teb1013

robrob said:


> I just took delivery of an Amperex Jan gold pin 7308 from Upscale Audio. I opted for the platinum grade and had it cryogenically treated. I was very skeptical of being able to hear a difference between the stock 6922EH and the 7308. I was really expecting to be disappointed with the new tube. I'm by no means an audiophile but I've been blown away by how good my AKG240s sound with the T1 and 6922EH. I really didn't think it could get much better for a $100 pair of headphones but I was wrong. Holy **** was I wrong. The 7308 sounds much better than the 6922EH. I'm really astounded how much better the music sounds, especially percussion and bass and the soundstage is so much more "there." I primarily listen to rock, 80's and alternative but I tested the new tube with jazz and classical too. The difference between the tubes was very obvious.
> 
> If you're sitting on the fence on upgrading the stock 6922EH or better yet the previous standard Chinese tube I say the $102 cost ($80 for platinum grade tube, $8 for cryogenic treatment, $14.65 shipping) of a premium tube is worth every penny.




I got this tube from Upscale Audio too and have been listening to it for the last few weeks. Even the driver grade (which was all I could afford) is fantastic and has completely revolutionized my listening pleasure. I have found it excellent with jazz, classical and female vocal and classic rock. There is almost a three dimensional sound to it that I never heard with the 6922 or Voskhod. . I am glad that you are enjoying it.


----------



## robrob

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> I got this tube from Upscale Audio too and have been listening to it for the last few weeks. Even the driver grade (which was all I could afford) is fantastic and has completely revolutionized my listening pleasure. I have found it excellent with jazz, classical and female vocal and classic rock. There is almost a three dimensional sound to it that I never heard with the 6922 or Voskhod. . I am glad that you are enjoying it.


 
  Ditto, I couldn't have said it better. Someone used the term "holographic soundstage" and now I know what they meant.


----------



## Seatown10

Hello forum. I just signed up with hopes to get some direction so I can experience the amazingness that is shared throughout this thread. 
   
  I consider myself an audiophile in the sense that I know what really good sound is.  However, I don't know the mechanics or technical aspects of anything. I'm a musician believe it or not but I have never put the effort in to learn about Ohms or anything else within sound.  I know, it's ignorant but I put those efforts into other things.  
   
  That's why I'm here, and hopefully someone can give me a quick summary so I can order this stuff today  
   
*Now to the point, *I currently have Sennheiser HD555 headphones that are about four years old. I was wondering if I could buy the amp talked about within this thread and be able to tell a big difference between having it plugged into my $120.00 motherboard. If not, I'm open to buy new headphones.  Basically, I'm looking for an awesome setup that will work with my computer.  My budget is $550.00.. Can someone give me a quick summary and some guidance on what exactly I need to hook a set of awesome headphones into my computer using this Aune T1 or whatever the latest one is? I read the forum for a while but it's been going on for so long! 
   
  I apologize for my laziness, ignorance, and whatever else but if you could help me out, you would make me VERY HAPPY! I love good sound! Thanks everyone!


----------



## robrob

I am not familiar with the HD555 headphone but my mid-level AKG240 headphones did not sound good when plugged into my motherboard or iPod. The addition of the T1 with it's upscale digital-to-analog converter (DAC), tube buffer circuit and excellent headphone amp made the AKG240's sing. I didn't know it but they needed more amp power to fill out the bass. You will be blown away by the difference--order a T1 now. The T1 comes with everything you need to hook it up to your computer. Try it with your current headphones before you decide to upgrade them but you will be able to get some excellent headphones and stay within your budget--I like the HiFiMAN HE-400 and Mad Dog headphones in your price range.


----------



## Seatown10

Thanks robrob. Just to confirm because usually these products will have a ton of reviews on amazon, would it be this one or something similar? 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A2QJMRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1374676965&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY190

Thanks again


----------



## penmarker

I bought another 6922EH that had gone bad, it still has the same channel imbalance as the previous one. I'm afraid it's the DAC part of my unit.
  What should I do? I bought this unit used. Please advise.


----------



## robrob

Seatown, that is the unit we're talking about with the good (but not great) tube. That is about the price paid too.
   
  penmarker, have you verified your imbalance problem isn't with your headphones?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





seatown10 said:


> Thanks robrob. Just to confirm because usually these products will have a ton of reviews on amazon, would it be this one or something similar?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A2QJMRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1374676965&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY190
> 
> Thanks again


 
  Massdrop has good Aune T1 offering  And if you are musician (I also was and kind of still are) then I recommend you to grab Amperex OG right away. Cheaper option would be Philips PCC189 (Heerlen).
   
  edit: sry that offering has ended but probably soon there will be another iI hope.


penmarker said:


> I bought another 6922EH that had gone bad, it still has the same channel imbalance as the previous one. I'm afraid it's the DAC part of my unit.
> What should I do? I bought this unit used. Please advise.


 
  Sad to hear that  Are you 100 % sure it`s not the headphones of it`s cable/connections?
   
  If you bought it used with no guarantee then first option would be open it and look for any visual damage, loose soldering or wire, bad capacitors etc. If everything seems ok then you could maybe connect to aune directly and ask if they can help with repair or go to local electronic repair-guy.


----------



## penmarker

My headphones work fine. If I use line in to connect with my turntable or mp3 player, it works fine. But if I use the USB connection the channel imbalance persists.
   
  Could USB cables cause channel imbalance too? I'm asking this because my previous RCA cable was defective and had this sort of buzzing/humming you hear when the grounding in your circuit is faulty. I tried opening it once but I can't get to more than just opening the plate below it. Also I can't really judge soldering quality.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





seatown10 said:


> *Now to the point, *I currently have Sennheiser HD555 headphones that are about four years old. I was wondering if I could buy the amp talked about within this thread and be able to tell a big difference between having it plugged into my $120.00 motherboard. If not, I'm open to buy new headphones.  Basically, I'm looking for an awesome setup that will work with my computer.  My budget is $550.00.. Can someone give me a quick summary and some guidance on what exactly I need to hook a set of awesome headphones into my computer using this Aune T1 or whatever the latest one is? I read the forum for a while but it's been going on for so long!


 
   
  1. Get Aune T1
  2. Get new headphones
  3. Use leftover money to get few spare tubes (tubes are not the main thing here. Just get T1 and proper headphones first)
  4. Be a happy man
   
  HD650 and K702 anniversaries (+ K702 pads) are one of the best headphones in their price range imo and would definitely be nice upgrade for you. Fidelio X1 are also great headphones for those who need plenty of good bass impact from their open headphones. Too bad the X1 are not the most refined cans out there and hence not as high fidelity as the former two. DT880 are also very nice cans. If you need closed headphones K550 should be considered. They do, however, have quite piercing treble.
   
  Computer + music player with ASIO or WASAPI etc. plugin -> Aune T1 via USB -> headphones


----------



## caracara08

The T1 impresses me beecause of its price, size, and you get to tube roll.  I think the EH sounds pretty good, can I get some recommendations for tubes in the 30-50$ range. I know the Amperex has been mentioned but I dont have the funds to pay out $100 for a tube at the moment.  Any non-NOS tubes been recommended?


----------



## CoiL

caracara08 said:


> The T1 impresses me beecause of its price, size, and you get to tube roll.  I think the EH sounds pretty good, can I get some recommendations for tubes in the 30-50$ range. I know the Amperex has been mentioned but I dont have the funds to pay out $100 for a tube at the moment.  Any non-NOS tubes been recommended?


 

  Amperex OG isn`t ~100$ First that came on sight @ eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-Holland-Stereo-Tube-6800-6900-/400529889028?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5d41711704
   
  And what genres you listen mostly? 6922EH is very good with electronic music and has nice airy soundstage with extended bass.
  For electronic I would stay with EH but if you want more tighter and punchier bass & kick with large airy soundstage, take a cheap Tungsram PCC88 from eBay or if you wish more mids section, get JAN Sylvania 6922.
   
  For rock/metal/progressive Philips PCC189 (Heerlen) is a great cheap option instead Amperex OG but it depends what headphones you use and how bright/dark sounding they are. OG has smoother highs section and better mids. I find soundstage also better.
   
  Great tubes for every genre are Siemens PCC189, Miniwatt-Dario PCC189/ECC189, JAN Sylvania 6922 but they all are quite hard to find and are probably expensive.
  
  But you should read more impressions from this thread. I know it`s a lot of pages but if you want something good for your taste you should seek for it and do your own research. There`s a lot of info about tubes in this thread, just take time to read.


----------



## teb1013

caracara08 said:


> The T1 impresses me beecause of its price, size, and you get to tube roll.  I think the EH sounds pretty good, can I get some recommendations for tubes in the 30-50$ range. I know the Amperex has been mentioned but I dont have the funds to pay out $100 for a tube at the moment.  Any non-NOS tubes been recommended?




I got my Amperex 7308 from this page http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html for $50 "driver grade" (which works fine in the tube buffer of the T1). This is a fantastic tube.
The following page offers a number of reasonably priced tubes (mostly non NOS) which you can read about in detail on this thread. http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6dj8 got a Voskhod, but found it too forward for my taste (others love it). I found the Amperex well worth the money.


----------



## MrEleventy

ditto on amperex ogs not being 100 each. I got 3 of them for 50 shipped. 15-20 max is what you should be spending.


----------



## caracara08

Ah, I was looking at platinum or whatever they have on upscale... then you add shipping.  
   
  I listen to mainly vocals, jazz, some rock, hiphop, rap, classical.  No electronic, or anything like that.


----------



## CoiL

Btw, I am considering hiphop & rap under "electronic" also because it mostly has punchy/boomy bass and artificially made sounds on background, these genres usually don`t have much natural instruments.
   
  But you should probably get Amperex OG.
   
  Edit:
   
  Siemens PCC189 with great price (last one): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Stuck-PCC189-Rohre-von-Siemens-nos-neu-/261219284522?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&hash=item3cd1e1f62a
   
  If I hadn`t so much tubes, would get it myself. Very good tube.


----------



## caracara08

any impressions for the 7308 gold pin vs the amperex OG?


----------



## robrob

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> My headphones work fine. If I use line in to connect with my turntable or mp3 player, it works fine. But if I use the USB connection the channel imbalance persists.
> 
> Could USB cables cause channel imbalance too? I'm asking this because my previous RCA cable was defective and had this sort of buzzing/humming you hear when the grounding in your circuit is faulty. I tried opening it once but I can't get to more than just opening the plate below it. Also I can't really judge soldering quality.


 
  Plug a source into the Line input connectors of the T1 and flip the switch to "Line" and see if the imbalance is still there. If it is then it's the T1's amp, if it's not then it's the DAC part of the T1.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





robrob said:


> Plug a source into the Line input connectors of the T1 and flip the switch to "Line" and see if the imbalance is still there. If it is then it's the T1's amp, if it's not then it's the DAC part of the T1.


 
  I've just said it works fine with line in.
   
  I'm just worried it might be channeling too much power to the tube's left channel. My previous tube got its left channel broken, the left channel is louder and the left channel deteriorated quickly before the right channel. Coincidence?


----------



## robrob

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> I've just said it works fine with line in.
> 
> I'm just worried it might be channeling too much power to the tube's left channel. My previous tube got its left channel broken, the left channel is louder and the left channel deteriorated quickly before the right channel. Coincidence?


 
  Sorry, I thought you were talking about using your headphones with other equipment. It "shouldn't" be your usb cable because it's pure digital but stranger stuff has happened. If you can borrow another usb cable to try then do it but I wouldn't recommend you spend the money to buy a new one because it does sound like your T1's DAC is defective.


----------



## penmarker

Probably going to have it looked at by a technician one day. Cheers my man.


----------



## Currawong

Just a note to people, as it comes up in this thread a lot: Group buys are not permitted here on the forums (excepting for DIY parts), due to predatory pricing issues that came up. That means that group buy sites are not permitted either, so references to them will likely result in your post being deleted. 
   
Also, please don't comment on this post and derail the thread. PM me if you want to discuss it. Thanks.


----------



## White Lotus

- Deleted


----------



## White Lotus

Sorry for double post, my Aune T1 came with me out into the country for two weeks.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





white lotus said:


> Sorry for double post, my Aune T1 came with me out into the country for two weeks.


 
  Cool headphones. What are they?


----------



## CoiL

http://www.fischeraudio.com/index.php/en/products/master-series/master-series-wood/fa-002w-zebrano

  


white lotus said:


> You're aware that the Tube section isn't being used with the line in, right? Only when used with USB? You might be having issues with your tube.


 
  Read earlier posts, it`s not the tube.


----------



## White Lotus

Quote: 





coil said:


> http://www.fischeraudio.com/index.php/en/products/master-series/master-series-wood/fa-002w-zebrano
> 
> 
> Read earlier posts, it`s not the tube.


 

 Sorry, I just saw that. I posted far too early - deleted now.


----------



## Seatown10

Thanks for the responses everyone. I want to order the Aune T1 but I don't get why they all ship from China? How is there not a comparable product that sells here in the United States? Do the Chinese just know what better sound is? Thanks


----------



## kamcok

Quote: 





seatown10 said:


> Thanks for the responses everyone. I want to order the Aune T1 but I don't get why they all ship from China? How is there not a comparable product that sells here in the United States? Do the Chinese just know what better sound is? Thanks


 
  I think it's just that labour is a lot cheaper in China. 
  Population is a lot denser and higher there and so people are more desperate for jobs so when given the choice between low pay / wait and find job with higher pay, they'd rather take the low pay job.
  Waiting and looking for a job that pays higher might eventually lead to worse conditions haha.
The cause that I wrote above is just my own thought and I'm likely to be wrong but labour is definitely a lot cheaper in Asia in general.


----------



## Seatown10

But a lot of products are made in China but sold and delivered by American companies. It's just interesting that no company here has purchased a bulk order of these and sell them here as third party vendors if you will. That's generally what you see. 

I bring this up because I order stuff online ALL the time and nothing ever never ships from China. If this product was in demand or as great as everyone says, you would think it would be sold from the US just like every other product made in China and sold in the US. 

I'm not saying its not great or questioning anyone's audiophile experience (I know jack **** , but I think its reasonable to consider the above and wonder why it is the way it is. My guess would be that the product isn't in demand due to the general population not understanding/caring what really good sound is. So they buy sound cards instead if anything. I think I just answered my own question.  thoughts?


----------



## teb1013

seatown10 said:


> Thanks for the responses everyone. I want to order the Aune T1 but I don't get why they all ship from China? How is there not a comparable product that sells here in the United States? Do the Chinese just know what better sound is? Thanks




There are US products, like those from Woo Audio And Schiit Audio but they cost vastly more than the T1 (the beautiful Woo WA 7 "fireflies" costs $1000 admittedly it has more power and refinement than the Aune, but for that price, it should). As was said above labor costs are much less in China. But you needn't worry about this being a flimsy piece of junk. The Aune T1 is a solidly built, good looking piece of equipment, and it sounds marvelous. By the way Amazon sells it. You will find various prices basically because of the tube used. Although Amazon has some that ship from local sellers and can be had fairly quickly, I ordered through Amazon, from Pennybuying which also sells through eBay, for $150. It was sent from China and arrived in a bit more than 3 weeks (free shipping). It was in great shape, well packed and came with a Russian 9622EH tube, which is generally seen as an upgrade. One suggestion. Don't go for the higher priced premium tube selections. Get this as cheaply as you can. On this site you will find plenty of recommendations for tube sources, some are very expensive, but good basic Russian or European tubes are available for reasonable prices for example: http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6dj8. Good Luck!


----------



## Seatown10

Cool thanks for the good Info. If anyone wants to make my day, can they send me a link to a t1 product they would buy if they were buying for themselves? I'm a complete tube noob so I have no idea what I'm doing. If I can just order a good t1 and do the research on tubes later, ill be good to go. I did see the T1 on amazon for 205 from china with 3 reviews. Is that a decent one to buy? Thanks in advance. Can't wait to hook this sucker up in a month when it arrives  lol.


----------



## DMax99

seatown10 said:


> Cool thanks for the good Info. If anyone wants to make my day, can they send me a link to a t1 product they would buy if they were buying for themselves? I'm a complete tube noob so I have no idea what I'm doing. If I can just order a good t1 and do the research on tubes later, ill be good to go. I did see the T1 on amazon for 205 from china with 3 reviews. Is that a decent one to buy? Thanks in advance. Can't wait to hook this sucker up in a month when it arrives  lol.




Type in "Aune T1" on eBay.. You will find quite a few available!


----------



## inphu510n

There are two located in the U.S. up for bid on eBay right now.
Otherwise, buying from U.S. sellers on there requires a bit of a price premium over sellers in China. Something in the range of $25 more.


----------



## teb1013

seatown10 said:


> Cool thanks for the good Info. If anyone wants to make my day, can they send me a link to a t1 product they would buy if they were buying for themselves? I'm a complete tube noob so I have no idea what I'm doing. If I can just order a good t1 and do the research on tubes later, ill be good to go. I did see the T1 on amazon for 205 from china with 3 reviews. Is that a decent one to buy? Thanks in advance. Can't wait to hook this sucker up in a month when it arrives  lol.




The best I could find on Amazon is this http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-24bit-Headphone-High-quality-Decoder/dp/B00AHTS9PM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1374764721&sr=1-3&keywords=aune+t1 which is much more than I paid, but the $150 Pennybuying deal is no longer there. You should probably go with eBay.


----------



## Seatown10

inphu510n said:


> There are two located in the U.S. up for bid on eBay right now.
> Otherwise, buying from U.S. sellers on there requires a bit of a price premium over sellers in China. Something in the range of $25 more.




Thanks for the response once again. 

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=231009510962

How about this one? Or stick with stock?


----------



## Seatown10

teb1013 said:


> The best I could find on Amazon is this http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-24bit-Headphone-High-quality-Decoder/dp/B00AHTS9PM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1374764721&sr=1-3&keywords=aune+t1 which is much more than I paid, but the $150 Pennybuying deal is no longer there. You should probably go with eBay.


 darn. Thanks anyways. I'm checking eBay now.


----------



## caracara08

i got mine from earth city sound on amazon. ships from tx if i remember correctly.  never dealt with them before but everything went smoothly. not sure if their price is the best or not though.


----------



## Seatown10

T





caracara08 said:


> i got mine from earth city sound on amazon. ships from tx if i remember correctly.  never dealt with them before but everything went smoothly. not sure if their price is the best or not though.


. Thanks. I'm not worried about price as long as it ships from us. Ill check them out!


----------



## mtakako

Just received my T1 yesterday but I noticed that the PSU is showing 220V. I lived in canada and we are using 110V here. Is it possible to use that PSU or would I need to get the 110V version or a power converter?


----------



## Seatown10

Just ordered a T1. Excited! We'll see how they improve my hd 555s


----------



## vackraord

Got my Aune T1 yesterday (with the 6922 electro harmonix tube). I have been listening alot to it the last 36 hours, with a pair of HD800, K702 and K551. And I must unfortunately I have to say it doesn't sound good with any of my cans. Not that I expected it to sound better than my Apogee Duet 2 + spl Auditor, but it actually worse than the analog output on my macbook air and pro.
   
  The bass is really lacking at the lower regions, and it sounds like it has some kind of spike at around 100-200Hz. There is also bad stuff going on higher up in the treble regions.
   
  My experience with guitar tube amplifiers is that for once my unit doesn't drive the tube enough. The tube is hardly glowing (except for the ridiculous LED-lightning.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





mtakako said:


> Just received my T1 yesterday but I noticed that the PSU is showing 220V. I lived in canada and we are using 110V here. Is it possible to use that PSU or would I need to get the 110V version or a power converter?


 
  No please. Get another adapter that suits your power rating.
  Quote: 





vackraord said:


> Got my Aune T1 yesterday (with the 6922 electro harmonix tube). I have been listening alot to it the last 36 hours, with a pair of HD800, K702 and K551. And I must unfortunately I have to say it doesn't sound good with any of my cans. Not that I expected it to sound better than my Apogee Duet 2 + spl Auditor, but it actually worse than the analog output on my macbook air and pro.
> 
> The bass is really lacking at the lower regions, and it sounds like it has some kind of spike at around 100-200Hz. There is also bad stuff going on higher up in the treble regions.
> 
> My experience with guitar tube amplifiers is that for once my unit doesn't drive the tube enough. The tube is hardly glowing (except for the ridiculous LED-lightning.


 
  I understand the Apogee Duet 2 is better than the Aune T1 because it's well over 3 times the price. However the analog out from your macbooks sounding better than the Aune? That's some statement you got there.
   
  The DAC unit of the macbook is probably better than the Aune.
   
  Yes there is some funny things going on in the lower bass and upper treble, I thought I'm the only one who noticed this. The tube isn't glowing bright because it's only a tube buffer and not tube amplified. The tube is connected to the DAC portion and not the amp portion of the unit.
   
  You'd probably want to sell the Aune T1 for something better.


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





vackraord said:


> Got my Aune T1 yesterday (with the 6922 electro harmonix tube). I have been listening alot to it the last 36 hours, with a pair of HD800, K702 and K551. And I must unfortunately I have to say it doesn't sound good with any of my cans. Not that I expected it to sound better than my Apogee Duet 2 + spl Auditor, but it actually worse than the analog output on my macbook air and pro.
> 
> The bass is really lacking at the lower regions, and it sounds like it has some kind of spike at around 100-200Hz. There is also bad stuff going on higher up in the treble regions.
> 
> My experience with guitar tube amplifiers is that for once my unit doesn't drive the tube enough. The tube is hardly glowing (except for the ridiculous LED-lightning.


 
   
  OK, first things first. Audio is completely subjective so I have no idea what you're hearing and whether it's an issue with the T1.
  IMHO experience the T1 is an outstanding value and should be performing to a higher standard than what you're describing.
  A few things:
  - Are you using USB to connect the T1 to your computer?
  - Have you changed the gain jumpers? With cans at 300ohms, I think you should be using the +10 gain option.
  - Have you tried a different tube?
   
  Agreed the LED lighting is a bit ridiculous.
  The tube will not glow brightly (which should extend it's life) because the tube is not amplifying the audio in the T1. The tube is part of the DAC section and is used as a buffer. The amp in the T1 is solid state (I'm not sure which opamp... anyone?).
  Because of the way the T1 is constructed, you HAVE to use the USB DAC in order to use the tube at all. Using the RCA line in (with switch set to LINE) will bypass the tube DAC.


----------



## CoiL

Vackraord, you are basically going against everyone`s opinion about Aune T1. Even thread starter said in first post that it will sound good with HD800 and K702 annies. Not to mention other users who like it with their cans. 
  But on the other hand I understand the difference when you "come down" to Aune T1 from great AMP like SPL Auditor.
   
  Although something may be wrong in your setup.
  1st. Use USB cable to include tube buffer in audio chain. RCA in uses only SS DAC & AMP portion of Aune T1.
  2nd. Use WASAPI, ASIO or KSP plugin to avoid OS internal kernel mixing (I don`t know how your Apogee Duet works with iOS)
  3rd. 6922EH tube isn`t something good but it`s not totally bad either. It sounds good with electronical atmospheric music etc.
         but it doesn`t suit for rock/metal/progressive/jazz/ imho. 
  4th. Are you using proper power brick? 220V or 110V?
  5th. There are gain switches under Aune T1, 3 positions: +0dB, +10dB or +16dB. 6922EH tube shouldn`t lack of bass, it has actually extended and somewhat "boomy" bass and that tube has quite sparkly highs section. 
   
   
  Edit (Offtopic): found some intresting electronic & piano music. Free for download: http://www.thextheorist.com/


----------



## joeq70

vackraord said:


> Got my Aune T1 yesterday (with the 6922 electro harmonix tube). I have been listening alot to it the last 36 hours, with a pair of HD800, K702 and K551. And I must unfortunately I have to say it doesn't sound good with any of my cans. Not that I expected it to sound better than my Apogee Duet 2 + spl Auditor, but it actually worse than the analog output on my macbook air and pro.
> 
> The bass is really lacking at the lower regions, and it sounds like it has some kind of spike at around 100-200Hz. There is also bad stuff going on higher up in the treble regions.
> 
> My experience with guitar tube amplifiers is that for once my unit doesn't drive the tube enough. The tube is hardly glowing (except for the ridiculous LED-lightning.



I think something is likely wrong somewhere, whether the tube or the unit itself. I compared the T1 + HD800 to a Sony SACD player + Ray Samuels Raptor + HD800 and the T1 was just as good.


----------



## teb1013

joeq70 said:


> I think something is likely wrong somewhere, whether the tube or the unit itself. I compared the T1 + HD800 to a Sony SACD player + Ray Samuels Raptor + HD800 and the T1 was just as good.




+1


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> Although something may be wrong in your setup.
> 1st. Use USB cable to include tube buffer in audio chain. RCA in uses only SS DAC & AMP portion of Aune T1.
> 2nd. Use WASAPI, ASIO or KSP plugin to avoid OS internal kernel mixing (I don`t know how your Apogee Duet works with iOS)
> 3rd. 6922EH tube isn`t something good but it`s not totally bad either. It sounds good with electronical atmospheric music etc.
> ...




Good points. My modest HD558s sound great with +0 but the phones mentioned undoubtedly need more gain. As you say the 6922 is OK but after the Amperex 7308 it is indeed lacking.

Your suggested download, although not exactly my taste in music is "interesting" and should erase any doubt that the T1 reproduces bass or wide soundstage (and shows what the T1 can do with even phones like the 558, which some claim don't do bass well, but sound pretty powerful with these recordings).


----------



## kskwerl

hey everyone, I recently finished my V5 Magnum build and was looking for suggestions for an amp to pair it with when someone mentioned the Aune T1. I currently am using the O2 and its just a little too sharp in the highs for my taste. Can anyone recommend this amp with Grades? Also if anyone could mention some of the Aune T1s competition at the same price point that would be great.


I've owned the Lyr but I would be buying this strictly for pairing with the V5 Magnums so I don't want to spend a whole lot of money.


----------



## Rem0o

Quote: 





vackraord said:


> Got my Aune T1 yesterday (with the 6922 electro harmonix tube). I have been listening alot to it the last 36 hours, with a pair of HD800, K702 and K551. And I must unfortunately I have to say it doesn't sound good with any of my cans. Not that I expected it to sound better than my Apogee Duet 2 + spl Auditor, but it actually worse than the analog output on my macbook air and pro.
> 
> The bass is really lacking at the lower regions, and it sounds like it has some kind of spike at around 100-200Hz. There is also bad stuff going on higher up in the treble regions.
> 
> My experience with guitar tube amplifiers is that for once my unit doesn't drive the tube enough. The tube is hardly glowing (except for the ridiculous LED-lightning.


 

 The highs on the T1 are indeed kinda bad. Every headphones I tried with it sounded kinda weird and that's the reason why I returned it. The amp section is ok I guess, but the dac part with the tube buffer is just silly and sounds bad compared to every other source I had on hand at the time.

 Oh and that blue LED, its purpose is to give a colder sound to the otherwise warm sound given by the tube buffer.

 /sarcasm


----------



## kamcok

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> I got my Amperex 7308 from this page http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html for $50 "driver grade" (which works fine in the tube buffer of the T1). This is a fantastic tube.
> The following page offers a number of reasonably priced tubes (mostly non NOS) which you can read about in detail on this thread. http://www.boiaudioworks.com/6dj8 got a Voskhod, but found it too forward for my taste (others love it). I found the Amperex well worth the money.


 
  do you know what the differences are between the grades (platinum/gold/driver) ?


----------



## teb1013

kamcok said:


> do you know what the differences are between the grades (platinum/gold/driver) ?




This is what it says on the Upscale Audio website: http://www.upscaleaudio.com/pages/Testing-Small-Signal-Tubes.html

By the way. Upscale is said to be bad for international shipping costs. Google lists plenty of sites in Australia for new and NOS tubes/valves. For example http://www.evatco.com.au/vataudio.htm


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





rem0o said:


> The highs on the T1 are indeed kinda bad. Every headphones I tried with it sounded kinda weird and that's the reason why I returned it. The amp section is ok I guess, but the dac part with the tube buffer is just silly and sounds bad compared to every other source I had on hand at the time.


 
  I guess you came to that conclusion without trying other tubes? Thats kinda silly attitude imo. What are those every headphones and how it sounded weird? And did you even use USB input or used it with RCA in?


----------



## kamcok

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> This is what it says on the Upscale Audio website: http://www.upscaleaudio.com/pages/Testing-Small-Signal-Tubes.html
> 
> By the way. Upscale is said to be bad for international shipping costs. Google lists plenty of sites in Australia for new and NOS tubes/valves. For example http://www.evatco.com.au/vataudio.htm


 
  ah thank you very much for the heads up ! 
  I haven't decided if i wanted to buy from them anyways, I was just wondering what they were cause other shops didn't seem to have that option.
   
  I ended up buying a telefunken 7308 on ebay just to see what it's like
  I'll post my impressions when they come


----------



## kamcok

Quote: 





coil said:


> I guess you came to that conclusion without trying other tubes? Thats kinda silly attitude imo. What are those every headphones and how it sounded weird? And did you even use USB input or used it with RCA in?


 
  he did write down "/sarcasm" at the end, he probably was just joking


----------



## MrEleventy

kskwerl said:


> hey everyone, I recently finished my V5 Magnum build and was looking for suggestions for an amp to pair it with when someone mentioned the Aune T1. I currently am using the O2 and its just a little too sharp in the highs for my taste. Can anyone recommend this amp with Grades? Also if anyone could mention some of the Aune T1s competition at the same price point that would be great.
> 
> 
> I've owned the Lyr but I would be buying this strictly for pairing with the V5 Magnums so I don't want to spend a whole lot of money.




The T1's amp section is brighter than the O2s, so if you find the O2 bright, you'll most definitely find the T1 bright. You might want to look at maybe a M-Stage or FIio stuff, they tend to lean darker. E17 is the exception where it's more neutral like the O2.


----------



## Rem0o

Quote: 





coil said:


> I guess you came to that conclusion without trying other tubes? Thats kinda silly attitude imo. What are those every headphones and how it sounded weird? And did you even use USB input or used it with RCA in?


 
  I like how you praise everyone with the same opinion as you and as soon as someone thinks differently, you instantly attack its credibility.

 /rant

 Anyway, to answer your questions, I tried the dac section alone with USB input+line out (which was bad imo), the amp section alone with RCA input (which was ok) and both sections as a single unit. I tried HD650, HD 558, Grado SR80, DT990 and the DAC section on a decent stereo speaker setup.  All sounded unnatural and edgy to my ears. By the way, if changing the stock tube or the EH 6922 is mandatory for it to sound good, then why didin't they included a good sounding tube with the package in the first place? The tube part is a gimmick. This is just my opinion by the way, it won't make the unit sound different to you if you think it sounds good already.


----------



## joeq70

kamcok said:


> do you know what the differences are between the grades (platinum/gold/driver) ?



The important thing to know is that the lowest grade (driver grade) works perfectly well in the T1--the higher grading doesnt really affect the sound for this use.


----------



## inphu510n

rem0o said:


> The tube part is a gimmick. This is just my opinion by the way, it won't make the unit sound different to you if you think it sounds good already.




As I've said before, this audio world is totally subjective. Some people hear things that others don't or can't hear. Some people exaggerate things just to make posts.
You just basically told most of the people in this thread that have rolled tubes that you think they're delusional.
This is absolutely a possibility.

I just know from personal experience that rolling tubes in this thing does make a difference in a number of ways.
I briefly owned an E17 before this and while everyone raves about them, I couldn't stand how muddy it sounded. Enter the T1 and that mud is gone for me.

Maybe you've got a defective amplifier. Maybe your tube is bad. How long had the tube been burned in for?


----------



## Rem0o

Had the unit for maybe 100 hours of playtime. Sound didn't changed to me.


----------



## kamcok

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> The important thing to know is that the lowest grade (driver grade) works perfectly well in the T1--the higher grading doesnt really affect the sound for this use.


 
  thanks for the input ! 
  i no longer have the want to buy higher grades now since the T1 is my only tube amp haha


----------



## icecap

rem0o said:


> Anyway, to answer your questions, I tried the dac section alone with USB input+line out (which was bad imo), the amp section alone with RCA input (which was ok) and both sections as a single unit. I tried HD650, HD 558, Grado SR80, DT990 and the DAC section on a decent stereo speaker setup.  All sounded unnatural and edgy to my ears. By the way, if changing the stock tube or the EH 6922 is mandatory for it to sound good, then why didin't they included a good sounding tube with the package in the first place? The tube part is a gimmick. This is just my opinion by the way, it won't make the unit sound different to you if you think it sounds good already.




I think everyone's perception of any equipment is fair enough as the external variables are too large to have any consistency.. Theory alone, the NE5532 opamp, the opamp used in T1 by the way I think some one is asking some posts before, is a very "bright" opamp to begin with.. With the EH6922, another bright tube, if so called the "favors" of the tube, it requires some good synergies with certain headphones to sound "right".. 

But then, there again, what is "right", what is "bright", what is "natural", it goes back to a person relative experience prior to hearing T1 and again the external variables YET again.. I think to be fair to Rem0o, it is at least refreshing how someone can post this perception of T1 different from most of us, which if we can't concur, then so be it.. Own it, love it, hahah..

On the thought of not including better tube as the package I feel is more of a marketing and sales strategy.. There is no doubt some tubes are really better and worth the extra to have it, due to rarity also.. It is back to the logic again if someone is happy enough with EH6922, it might not worth for him/her to spend extra on a tube package when the difference he/she hears is so little.. There are more reasons, but then, the rest are corporate reason I reckon..

Tube being gimmick, hmm, I think NwAVGuy also mentioned something along the line in his ODAC design and assessment.. There are just too many ways to change how a sound can be heard, why restrict another guy from putting 2.5" full range speakers near his ears to enjoy the most open sound he ever wants to hear? :b


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





rem0o said:


> I like how you praise everyone with the same opinion as you and as soon as someone thinks differently, you instantly attack its credibility.
> 
> /rant
> 
> Anyway, to answer your questions, I tried the dac section alone with USB input+line out (which was bad imo), the amp section alone with RCA input (which was ok) and both sections as a single unit. I tried HD650, HD 558, Grado SR80, DT990 and the DAC section on a decent stereo speaker setup.  All sounded unnatural and edgy to my ears. By the way, if changing the stock tube or the EH 6922 is mandatory for it to sound good, then why didin't they included a good sounding tube with the package in the first place? The tube part is a gimmick. This is just my opinion by the way, it won't make the unit sound different to you if you think it sounds good already.


 
  Look at the price of this thing. This is bang-for-a-buck product not something high-end. I think if Aune would wanted to go with high-end tubes they would have used different opamps and DAC chip also. Tube buffer is the thing that makes this unit attractive (so many different tube types will work) and possibility to match tubes to your cans and needs. 
   
  About that "attack", sorry if it felt so, it wasn`t. Of course I repect your opinion but really... saying that tube part is gimmick? 
  You don`t understand the point of this unit. Why did you even buy this thing if you weren`t going to try different tube? Sorry but I don`t understand your thinking.


----------



## teb1013

I think some people might find the tube to be a gimmick because it is a buffer rather than the main driving force of the unit. I don't agree. The tube gives its sound quality to the unit as a bit of tube rolling shows. With the correct tube (in my case the Amperex 7308). I find this a rich and rewarding piece of equipment. OK the led is dumb except that it says when the unit is ready to use. I don't think the Aune is unique in using an led this way, however.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





rem0o said:


> I like how you praise everyone with the same opinion as you and as soon as someone thinks differently, you instantly attack its credibility.
> 
> /rant
> 
> Anyway, to answer your questions, I tried the dac section alone with USB input+line out (which was bad imo), the amp section alone with RCA input (which was ok) and both sections as a single unit. I tried HD650, HD 558, Grado SR80, DT990 and the DAC section on a decent stereo speaker setup.  All sounded unnatural and edgy to my ears. By the way, if changing the stock tube or the EH 6922 is mandatory for it to sound good, then why didin't they included a good sounding tube with the package in the first place? The tube part is a gimmick. This is just my opinion by the way, it won't make the unit sound different to you if you think it sounds good already.


 
  It's ok if you don't like the stock tube. However, buying the T1 without any plans to ever try out another tube is kind of pointless. I feel like it's obvious from my opening post that the point of the T1 is that you can find the sound you want through tube rolling. I don't think I've yet read of somebody who tried several tubes and concluded that the stock tube was the best. I'm sorry that it didn't work out for you, but if you think I should have put a disclaimer in the FAQ about needing to buy tubes, let me know, and I will consider it.


----------



## kskwerl

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> It's ok if you don't like the stock tube. However, buying the T1 without any plans to ever try out another tube is kind of pointless. I feel like it's obvious from my opening post that the point of the T1 is that you can find the sound you want through tube rolling. I don't think I've yet read of somebody who tried several tubes and concluded that the stock tube was the best. I'm sorry that it didn't work out for you, but if you think I should have put a disclaimer in the FAQ about needing to buy tubes, let me know, and I will consider it.


 

 Hey Joeq70 I had a question about the Magnums and the T1. Which other amps have you compared with the T1 that you find the T1 best fit for the Magnums. I ask because I'm only really look for something inexpensive for the Magnums


----------



## teb1013

joeq70 said:


> It's ok if you don't like the stock tube. However, buying the T1 without any plans to ever try out another tube is kind of pointless. I feel like it's obvious from my opening post that the point of the T1 is that you can find the sound you want through tube rolling. I don't think I've yet read of somebody who tried several tubes and concluded that the stock tube was the best. I'm sorry that it didn't work out for you, but if you think I should have put a disclaimer in the FAQ about needing to buy tubes, let me know, and I will consider it.




I just re read your opener, it is part of what got me interested in this unit. I think it is comprehensive and well written. The idea that the tubes are key to enjoyment is clear no changes needed.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





kskwerl said:


> Hey Joeq70 I had a question about the Magnums and the T1. Which other amps have you compared with the T1 that you find the T1 best fit for the Magnums. I ask because I'm only really look for something inexpensive for the Magnums


 
  My experimentation with the Magnums and sources/amps is not exactly comprehensive, but I'll go ahead and list them out:
   
  Sources and amps I've tried with the Magnums:
  Samsung Laptop
  HRT Headstreamer
  uDAC
  Audioquest Dragonfly
  Sansa Clip+
 Iphone 4
  Sony SACD Player (not sure of the model--it was at some HI-FI shop)
  Mini 3
  Ray Samuels Raptor
  Digizoid Zo
  Headroom micro stack
   
   I'm probably forgetting something, but that's the gist of it. A lot of the stuff I tried is fine. I like the T1 the best so far irrespective of price, but the price is excellent. I just love the what the tubes do for the sound. If you decide to buy a T1, be prepared to snag a couple extra new old stock tubes, however.


----------



## kskwerl

joeq70 said:


> My experimentation with the Magnums and sources/amps is not exactly comprehensive, but I'll go ahead and list them out:
> 
> Sources and amps I've tried with the Magnums:
> Samsung Laptop
> ...





thanks I'll prob grab one off amazon and worst comes to worst I will just return it


----------



## Devmoo

Welp.. my new tube arrived and it didn't fix the problem. I guess i'm going to have to open it up and check inside now.. 
   
  EDIT: Well o.o I left it on for a good 20 mins with the distortion and it just cleared up, it sounds amazing!! 
  I noticed right away that the JJ tube has some REALLY smooth vocals, strong and powerful mids. The bass isn't as vibrant as the EH, but it's still there!


----------



## joeq70

devmoo said:


> Welp.. my new tube arrived and it didn't fix the problem. I guess i'm going to have to open it up and check inside now..
> 
> Well o.o I left it on for a good 20 mins with the distortion and it just cleared up, it sounds amazing!!
> I noticed right away that the JJ tube has some REALLY smooth vocals, strong and powerful mids. The bass isn't as vibrant as the EH, but it's still there!



Was that second paragraph an update? If the problem is gone then good for you hope you enjoy it! Shouldn't have to wait 20 mins though, so I'd send back the unit for a replacement if that behavior persists.


----------



## MrEleventy

I find that sometimes nos tubes take a little breaking in for things like humming and buzzing to go away. I get that every now and again on my dark voice 336. particularly the 6sn7 tubes.


----------



## Devmoo

Nope, my Aune T1 is definitely broken xD. But If the tube gets hot enough I can listen for a good 45 mins untill this harsh static kicks in again. I guess i'll be getting a new amp soon. I just got unlucky I guess. The same thing happens for any tube I guess, it's just the tube buffer or what ever.
   
  And I don't think I can get a replacement now.. it's been around 45 - 50 days since I got it. The return is only 30 days.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





devmoo said:


> Nope, my Aune T1 is definitely broken xD. But If the tube gets hot enough I can listen for a good 45 mins untill this harsh static kicks in again. I guess i'll be getting a new amp soon. I just got unlucky I guess. The same thing happens for any tube I guess, it's just the tube buffer or what ever.
> 
> And I don't think I can get a replacement now.. it's been around 45 - 50 days since I got it. The return is only 30 days.


 
   
  Sorry for your loss man.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





vackraord said:


> Not that I expected it to sound better than my Apogee Duet 2 + spl Auditor, but it actually worse than the analog output on my macbook air and pro.


 
   
  Quote: 





rem0o said:


> The highs on the T1 are indeed kinda bad. Every headphones I tried with it sounded kinda weird and that's the reason why I returned it. The amp section is ok I guess, but the dac part with the tube buffer is just silly and sounds bad compared to every other source I had on hand at the time.


 
   
  Trolling or serious? At least not the most polite way to introduce oneself into the thread  But yeah T1 is on the bright side. Not as warm as dedicated tube amps but not as bright as E17 either imo.


----------



## inphu510n

devmoo said:


> Nope, my Aune T1 is definitely broken xD. But If the tube gets hot enough I can listen for a good 45 mins untill this harsh static kicks in again. I guess i'll be getting a new amp soon. I just got unlucky I guess. The same thing happens for any tube I guess, it's just the tube buffer or what ever.
> 
> And I don't think I can get a replacement now.. it's been around 45 - 50 days since I got it. The return is only 30 days.




Ehhhh email them, tell them your issue and all the steps you've taken to troubleshoot. They should at least repair it for free.


----------



## Kaaf

Has anyone tried to do some opamp rolling instead of tubes. The best improvement are usually reached by upgrading the opamps in a solid state headphone amp. If so what opamps can we use?

I found coil asking this also, but maybe someone with experience joined the forum


----------



## CoiL

I think this is the question that should be asked from rockgrotto forum, since there are some crazy opamp rollers & electronic specialists (well, here also but they don`t seem to come to this thread). Thats the question I`ve been looking for answer long time now. Since I don`t know so much about opamps and their compability, then I don`t dare to start experimenting. But since I´ve reached to point with tube rolling where I don`t see any further point of getting other tubes or doing anything, then I`ve not been dealing with finding answers to this questions. I like my HD-681 (mkII filter mod) + Aune T1 with Ultron SQ PCC189 / Amperex OG GAC / Tungsram PCC88(for electronic music) coupling as it is.


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> I think this is the question that should be asked from rockgrotto forum, since there are some crazy opamp rollers & electronic specialists (well, here also but they don`t seem to come to this thread). Thats the question I`ve been looking for answer long time now. Since I don`t know so much about opamps and their compability, then I don`t dare to start experimenting. But since I´ve reached to point with tube rolling where I don`t see any further point of getting other tubes or doing anything, then I`ve not been dealing with finding answers to this questions. I like my HD-681 (mkII filter mod) + Aune T1 with Ultron SQ PCC189 / Amperex OG GAC / Tungsram PCC88(for electronic music) coupling as it is.




Op-amps? I searched for the term and there are a plethora of threads about them but no one defines the term. My first indication that these are something that I don't want to know about. I finally found out that these are "operational amplifiers", and that "rolling" them involves electrical expertise. This isn't for me. I like my T1 with a little tube rolling. No "going under the hood" for me!


----------



## pelli

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> But yeah T1 is on the bright side. Not as warm as dedicated tube amps but not as bright as E17 either imo.


 
   
  I have to say that I appreciated the brightness with my HD 650.  Most of my gear tends to be on the darker side (look at my sig) but when I brought in my Asgard 1 to work yesterday to compare it with the T1 amp stage, I ended up listening to the T1 exclusively the second half of the day.  The added sparkle brightened up the HD 650 nicely and made the A1 sound a bit dull and lacking detail in comparison.  Don't tell the boys over in the Schiit thread as I am as big a Schiit Head as there is, but I have to give credit where credit is due regardless of brand or price tag.


----------



## teb1013

Just listening to Body and Soul by John Coltrane. Drums and base to the left, piano to the right and sax above my head crystal clear! Beautiful involving liquid sound. This is what I love about the T1/Amperex 7308 combo played through HD558. Whatever people say about better or more sophisticated equipment, I think I will stick with this for quite a while!


----------



## robrob

teb1013 said:


> Just listening to Body and Soul by John Coltrane. Drums and base to the left, piano to the right and sax above my head crystal clear! Beautiful involving liquid sound. This is what I love about the T1/Amperex 7308 combo played through HD558. Whatever people say about better or more sophisticated equipment, I think I will stick with this for quite a while!



This! My T1 is simply amazing.


----------



## joeq70

inphu510n said:


> Ehhhh email them, tell them your issue and all the steps you've taken to troubleshoot. They should at least repair it for free.



I agree--e-mail them! It's worth it!


----------



## MRpilgrim

Has anyone heard the genalex goldlion e88cc? Thanks


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





mrpilgrim said:


> Has anyone heard the genalex goldlion e88cc? Thanks


 
  Just so you know there is a search function! I went ahead and did it for you and found the following:
   
*Edit: P.S. I'm glad I looked it up--made me want to try one so I went ahead and ordered one haha.*
  __________________________
[size=10pt]Quote:[/size]
[size=10pt]Originally Posted by *dpmalito* [/size]
[size=10pt]By the way I just popped in this tube into the Aune T1:[/size]
   
[size=10pt]http://thetubestore.com/goldlione88cc.html[/size]
   
[size=10pt]http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/thetubestore_2236_171418052[/size]  (not sure how to insert an image, button won't work)
   
_[size=13.5pt]The Genalex Gold Lion E88CC/6922 is a premium grade selected small signal twin-triode that is a suitable replacement for all 6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, and 7308 types. This tube features gold plated pins and is manufactured to extremely tight specifications, making it the highest quality current production E88CC/6922 available.[/size]_
   
[size=10pt]Holy Moley! You wanna talk about pop! This tube has put the Aune T1 over the lmit man, the highs are tight and the bass pops! Try this tube today![/size]
   
   
  ___________________________
[size=10pt]Quote:[/size]
[size=10pt]Originally Posted by *maurits* [/size]
   
[size=10pt]Congrats! The postman delivered a Gold Lion to me today. Very intense tube in the T1 so far...[/size]
   
   
  ___________________________
[size=10pt]Quote:[/size]
[size=10pt]Originally Posted by *Enki* [/size]
[size=10pt]Just got my Aune T1 with the Genalex-Goldlion E88CC tube from Quartz Acoustic.  Definitely an improvement over my laptops soundcard so far, still need to do a proper burn in.  But the bass definitely has the impact I wanted with my M-100's that I noticed my laptop lacked compared to other sources.  Quite satisfied with this purchase and the unit feels pretty solid.[/size]


----------



## MRpilgrim

Thanks. Is 35USD with shipping a good price for it?


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





mrpilgrim said:


> Thanks. Is 35USD with shipping a good price for it?


 
  I think so, that is what I just paid for it (ebay seller).


----------



## kamcok

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> I think so, that is what I just paid for it (ebay seller).


 
  so jelly.......
  where did you find it
  cheapest i could find (shipping incl.) is like $50 ish


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





kamcok said:


> so jelly.......
> where did you find it
> cheapest i could find (shipping incl.) is like $50 ish


 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genalex-Gold-Lion-6922-Gold-Pin-tube-36-40-each-E88CC-/360604521391?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item53f5b453af
   
  If I don't like mine more than my rocket logo then I'll sell it for $30 shipped to the US.


----------



## inphu510n

The Genalex is a good tube but personally I preferred the Amperex tubes.
I have the JJ, Genalex, EH, Voskhod, Reflector, Siemens and Amperex. So far I personally prefer the Amperex sound.


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





kamcok said:


> so jelly.......
> where did you find it
> cheapest i could find (shipping incl.) is like $50 ish


 

  another one here, in SGD, http://www.quartzacoustic.com/shop/driver-tubes/genalex-gold-lion-e88cc6922-pre-amp-tube/


----------



## Kjeldsen

Haven't been through all 165 pages yet, and couldn't find anything by searching, so i'll just go ahead and ask 
   
  Can anyone compare the Aune T1 DAC to the Xonar Essence ST?
   
  Cheers!


----------



## Rem0o

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> It's ok if you don't like the stock tube. However, buying the T1 without any plans to ever try out another tube is kind of pointless. I feel like it's obvious from my opening post that the point of the T1 is that you can find the sound you want through tube rolling. I don't think I've yet read of somebody who tried several tubes and concluded that the stock tube was the best. I'm sorry that it didn't work out for you, but if you think I should have put a disclaimer in the FAQ about needing to buy tubes, let me know, and I will consider it.


 
  I didn't buy the unit because of this thread or head-fi reviews. I bought it on my own, thinking it had all the feature I wanted but in the end I just didn't like how it sounded and upgraded to a better solution for me.


----------



## CoiL

It didn`t occur to you that tube can be changed to change the sound? Buying a thing without doing any "research" (even after buying), thus knowing nothing about options it offers, not liking "stock" tube, sending it back and then "yelling" how bad it is in dedicated forum? I just don`t get this kind of thinking and attitude. Well, sad that you didn`t get to "taste" what T1 actually offers.
  And what is that better upgrade solution if I may ask? Just curious.


----------



## Rem0o

Quote: 





coil said:


> It didn`t occur to you that tube can be changed to change the sound? Buying a thing without doing any "research" (even after buying), thus knowing nothing about options it offers, not liking "stock" tube, sending it back and then "yelling" how bad it is in dedicated forum? I just don`t get this kind of thinking and attitude. Well, sad that you didn`t get to "taste" what T1 actually offers.
> And what is that better upgrade solution if I may ask? Just curious.


 

 Of course I did some research before buying, but yes, I did a mistake. Reviews can say many things but all of them were positive so I tried it, just didn't liked it. Also, I didn't "yell", just expressed my experience with the unit, isn't that what this forum is all about? If negative = yell in your mind, then there is an attitude problem. I didn't bashed the product at all, just said I didn't liked the DAC sound in its stock config and that the tube was, in my opinion, a gimmick that was going against what I was looking for.  Instead of buying tons of tubes for this unit, hence investing more on a product I am not liking at that time, I prefered to pay the shipping to return it and step up my whole setup instead.  I bought a Schiit Valhalla and a Odac, which obviously is on an other price level.

 Maybe I should have said what I was coming from too. I had a Fiio E10, a 70$ unit, and I much prefered it's sound to the T1. When you just spent 180$ on a new unit and you feel you have to buy aftermarket tubes to make it sound at least like your previous unit and you aren't even sure of the end result, it just turns you off, at least in my case.


----------



## kamcok

Quote: 





icecap said:


> another one here, in SGD, http://www.quartzacoustic.com/shop/driver-tubes/genalex-gold-lion-e88cc6922-pre-amp-tube/


 
   
  Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genalex-Gold-Lion-6922-Gold-Pin-tube-36-40-each-E88CC-/360604521391?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item53f5b453af
> 
> If I don't like mine more than my rocket logo then I'll sell it for $30 shipped to the US.


 
   
  yeah lol they both are well above $50 shipped to AUS
  the shipping is the problem 
   
  anyway, thanks guys


----------



## teb1013

I know there are tube sources in Australia, do they have bad prices?


----------



## kamcok

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> I know there are tube sources in Australia, do they have bad prices?


 
  In the end it's the same price as buying it internationally + shipping
  for example...
  from http://www.evatco.com.au/
  genalex gold lion is 50 AUD, so no difference essentially haha
  i feel that everything in australia is generally more expensive... even food (


----------



## icecap

kamcok said:


> yeah lol they both are well above $50 shipped to AUS
> the shipping is the problem
> 
> anyway, thanks guys



S$50 + S$3 shipping still more than 50AUD?


----------



## kamcok

Quote: 





icecap said:


> S$50 + S$3 shipping still more than 50AUD?


 
  48 aud haha
  I won't buy it anytime soon it's okay
  I just bought the telefunken 7308 recently, I'll post my impressions when I get them


----------



## CoiL

Quote:


rem0o said:


> Of course I did some research before buying, but yes, I did a mistake. Reviews can say many things but all of them were positive so I tried it, just didn't liked it. Also, I didn't "yell", just expressed my experience with the unit, isn't that what this forum is all about? If negative = yell in your mind, then there is an attitude problem. I didn't bashed the product at all, just said I didn't liked the DAC sound in its stock config and that the tube was, in my opinion, a gimmick that was going against what I was looking for.  Instead of buying tons of tubes for this unit, hence investing more on a product I am not liking at that time, I prefered to pay the shipping to return it and step up my whole setup instead. When you just spent 180$ on a new unit and you feel you have to buy aftermarket tubes to make it sound at least like your previous unit and you aren't even sure of the end result, it just turns you off, at least in my case.


 
   
  Do you know what word between " " means? Did research and still didn`t find out that tube works as buffer and is main point of this budget unit? Didn`t find out that T1 is actually quite bright-sounding? And you don`t have to find tons of tubes to get it sound what you want. That`s why there are forums and threads like this with lot of info. You could have just asked what cans do you want to pair with itand what tube to get. Btw, I didn`t catch it what cans you actually wanted to use with it because wanting all those cans you mentioned to sound good with Aune T1 is ridiculous. That`s where tube rolling comes in. Now, calling tube buffer silly and gimmick? It`s ok you didn`t like stock tube though. Many don`t like it but there are also many who like this tube, including me (I find it very good only with atmospheric electronic music). Sad to hear that this product as stock didn`t suit for your needs, but it`s obvious that you didn`t do any research and apart of you not liking 6922EH tube - this all seems to me quite trolling.


----------



## Ophiel

Quote: 





rem0o said:


> Of course I did some research before buying, but yes, I did a mistake. Reviews can say many things but all of them were positive so I tried it, just didn't liked it. Also, I didn't "yell", just expressed my experience with the unit, isn't that what this forum is all about? If negative = yell in your mind, then there is an attitude problem. I didn't bashed the product at all, just said I didn't liked the DAC sound in its stock config and that the tube was, in my opinion, a gimmick that was going against what I was looking for.  Instead of buying tons of tubes for this unit, hence investing more on a product I am not liking at that time, I prefered to pay the shipping to return it and step up my whole setup instead.  I bought a Schiit Valhalla and a Odac, which obviously is on an other price level.
> 
> Maybe I should have said what I was coming from too. I had a Fiio E10, a 70$ unit, and I much prefered it's sound to the T1. When you just spent 180$ on a new unit and you feel you have to buy aftermarket tubes to make it sound at least like your previous unit and you aren't even sure of the end result, it just turns you off, at least in my case.


 
  I'm not sure what you mean by gimmick when that's the whole point of this dac. I'm glad u found what you like with the valhalla and Odac well because like you said they are on another price level and if even that doesn't please you, i don't think anything would 
   
  Anyway. At first I found the stock tube okay, but after changing to better ones I couldn't go back anymore. I'm not a good critical listener, but I can at least hear that the stock tube doesnt have the wider soundstage of better tubes(i'm using Tungstram E88CC now). I did find the bass lacking in quantity at first coming from a Xonar DX, but gradually started to appreciate it as it allows other parts of the frequency to come in more. Personally i like how this pairs with my HD600 as contrary to what people describe, i find it a dark phone with rolled off treble and this sorta balances it out. I find not only the amp section bright, but the dac too because I use line out to my A2s and found the same thing (compared to my DX). So yea, the bright DAC+amp pairing with bright headphones would not be very nice..


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





pelli said:


> I have to say that I appreciated the brightness with my HD 650.  Most of my gear tends to be on the darker side (look at my sig) but when I brought in my Asgard 1 to work yesterday to compare it with the T1 amp stage, I ended up listening to the T1 exclusively the second half of the day.  The added sparkle brightened up the HD 650 nicely and made the A1 sound a bit dull and lacking detail in comparison.  Don't tell the boys over in the Schiit thread as I am as big a Schiit Head as there is, but I have to give credit where credit is due regardless of brand or price tag.


 
   
  Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> The Genalex is a good tube but personally I preferred the Amperex tubes.
> I have the JJ, Genalex, EH, Voskhod, Reflector, Siemens and Amperex. So far I personally prefer the Amperex sound.


 
   
  +1.


----------



## Rem0o

> but it`s obvious that you didn`t do any research and apart of you not liking 6922EH tube - this all seems to me quite trolling.




Such drama queen. I won't repeat myself because I think my last post said what I have to say. Now, maybe you should change your tube from an aggressive one to a more polite and less engaging sounding one, just a thought. 

Don't forget to enjoy the music.


----------



## stjj89

Any recommendations for a tube to go with HE-400? I listen to classical rock, instrumental rock, electronic music and hip-hop, so I would appreciate some brightness, boosting of mids, tighter, more extended bass and a good soundstage. Would the Amperex 7308 Gold still be a good idea for me?


----------



## Seatown10

Edit: I'm dumb. Never mind


----------



## Seatown10

Just want to thank everyone here for convincing me to buy an Aune T1. I'm using them with my five year old Sennheiser HD555 and this thing has brought a whole new world to these babies! Listening to my music all evening with a cold one! Cheers!


----------



## teb1013

seatown10 said:


> Just want to thank everyone here for convincing me to buy an Aune T1. I'm using them with my five year old Sennheiser HD555 and this thing has brought a whole new world to these babies! Listening to my music all evening with a cold one! Cheers!




Glad to hear you are enjoying the T1. It brought my modest HD558s alive, like brand new headphones. What tube are you using?


----------



## Seatown10

teb1013 said:


> Glad to hear you are enjoying the T1. It brought my modest HD558s alive, like brand new headphones. What tube are you using?




Its great isn't it? I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to this but I do know good sound. Here is the listing and item I bought. 
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=231009510959

I'm open to buying a better one if they are out there. I'm loving this one but I really don't know much about what they are in general. Any suggestions?


----------



## teb1013

seatown10 said:


> Its great isn't it? I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to this but I do know good sound. Here is the listing and item I bought.
> http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=231009510959
> 
> I'm open to buying a better one if they are out there. I'm loving this one but I really don't know much about what they are in general. Any suggestions?




The 9622 EH is pretty good. As for suggestions, go to the thread starter by joeq70 which is a good introduction (which has been updated several times). the thread includes a vast number of tube reviews. Among the many people who give good informative reviews are Coil and Salvatore. Not everyone agrees, in part because the type of headphones that you use and the sort of music you listen to makes a difference. If you have particular interests, the thread search function helps. Good luck!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





seatown10 said:


> Its great isn't it? I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to this but I do know good sound. Here is the listing and item I bought.
> http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=231009510959
> 
> I'm open to buying a better one if they are out there. I'm loving this one but I really don't know much about what they are in general. Any suggestions?


 
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294


----------



## teb1013

salvatore said:


> http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294




Yep, that's the one! Thanks Salvatore!


----------



## TON13

Just finished reading the entire thread. Had surgery yesterday so I had plenty of time lately. I'm new but thanks to everyone who posted in the thread. I picked up the T1 recently and have really enjoyed it. My headphones aren't the greatest but we'll see (Grado SR80i & Klipsch X10). 

Have the Amperex 7308 & the Telefunken E88CC on the way. Can't wait to try them out. Many thanks again.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294


 
  Salvatore, do you mind if I quote your links post and add it to my opening post FAQ?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Salvatore, do you mind if I quote your links post and add it to my opening post FAQ?


 
   
  No not at all, go ahead.


----------



## Brendo09

I'm enjoying this unit for headphones. Fischer Audio FA-011, magnificent match. I've still got the stock 6922EH in there, but arriving in the post from Bulgaria (supposedly, I've paid for them...) are a Phillips Miniwatt PCC189, a Mullard ECC88, and a Valvo PCC88. See how they go. 
   
  This has probably been talked about already, but it's a big thread. If you use the RCA outs to send the signal to an amp, and the USB for the input, the Tube Buffer is still in play, isn't it? It's only bypassed if you use the RCA in?


----------



## jipan

Correct.
  Quote: 





brendo09 said:


> I'm enjoying this unit for headphones. Fischer Audio FA-011, magnificent match. I've still got the stock 6922EH in there, but arriving in the post from Bulgaria (supposedly, I've paid for them...) are a Phillips Miniwatt PCC189, a Mullard ECC88, and a Valvo PCC88. See how they go.
> 
> This has probably been talked about already, but it's a big thread. If you use the RCA outs to send the signal to an amp, and the USB for the input, the Tube Buffer is still in play, isn't it? It's only bypassed if you use the RCA in?


----------



## joeq70

brendo09 said:


> I'm enjoying this unit for headphones. Fischer Audio FA-011, magnificent match. I've still got the stock 6922EH in there, but arriving in the post from Bulgaria (supposedly, I've paid for them...) are a Phillips Miniwatt PCC189, a Mullard ECC88, and a Valvo PCC88. See how they go.
> 
> This has probably been talked about already, but it's a big thread. If you use the RCA outs to send the signal to an amp, and the USB for the input, the Tube Buffer is still in play, isn't it? It's only bypassed if you use the RCA in?



Yes, your statements are exactly right. If you are utilizing USB then you are utilizing the tube


----------



## Brendo09

Sweet, I like being right. 
   
  Has anyone had any performance issues with this? Mine runs 8 hours a day 5 days a week at work, with the headphones either on my noggin or loud enough to hear the music from their stand. 
   
  Expected life of the unit?


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





brendo09 said:


> Sweet, I like being right.
> 
> Has anyone had any performance issues with this? Mine runs 8 hours a day 5 days a week at work, with the headphones either on my noggin or loud enough to hear the music from their stand.
> 
> Expected life of the unit?


 
  I'd be more concerned about the life of the tubes.
  This thing does run a bit warm. You might consider elevating it further off the surface to allow better airflow on the underside.


----------



## Brendo09

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> I'd be more concerned about the life of the tubes.
> This thing does run a bit warm. You might consider elevating it further off the surface to allow better airflow on the underside.


 
   
  The little rubber feet sit perfectly alongside my CPU (which is up on it's end). 
   
  This means the unit sits flush with the metal casing, which acts as a heat sink (I think). 
   
  I'm still tossing up whether to keep it here or take it home and put it into the living room rig when I do the overhaul.


----------



## MrEleventy

brendo09 said:


> Sweet, I like being right.
> 
> Has anyone had any performance issues with this? Mine runs 8 hours a day 5 days a week at work, with the headphones either on my noggin or loud enough to hear the music from their stand.
> 
> Expected life of the unit?




My unit is about 9 months old, I'm the 2nd owner and I've been running it 8hrs a day, 5 days a week for the past 5 months. Still kicking like a champ. No issues at all.



inphu510n said:


> I'd be more concerned about the life of the tubes.
> This thing does run a bit warm. You might consider elevating it further off the surface to allow better airflow on the underside.



+1. But also, since it's just a buffer stage tube, it doesn't run as hot as tube amps so even those should last a while.


----------



## dennis611

joeq70 said:


> Yes, your statements are exactly right. If you are utilizing USB then you are utilizing the tube




The vol control will in d T1 will be bypassed am 8 right? T1 will be acting as a pre- amp this way...


----------



## penmarker

Actually the tube sounds better if hot. When my tube was faulty, it had to be really hot to run well, so I covered it with a snowcap. The insulation made it really hot but the sound became very liquid. Now I changed the tube for a new one, still 6922EH, but still maintain covering it with a snowcap.
   
  Some tube amps can run so hot you can't even touching it without burning your hands.


----------



## MrEleventy

penmarker said:


> Actually the tube sounds better if hot. When my tube was faulty, it had to be really hot to run well, so I covered it with a snowcap. The insulation made it really hot but the sound became very liquid. Now I changed the tube for a new one, still 6922EH, but still maintain covering it with a snowcap.




E: I'm kinda tempted to try this out. Maybe make a little insulated cage and see if anything changes...



penmarker said:


> Some tube amps can run so hot you can't even touching it without burning your hands.



dv336, especially the power tube. accidentally touched it when it was cooling down... instant blister.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





dennis611 said:


> The vol control will in d T1 will be bypassed am 8 right? T1 will be acting as a pre- amp this way...


 
  It is actually bypassed even if the volume knob is turned on. You could listen to headphones via the T1 headphone out and you can listen to something else via the RCA out simultaneously. The headphone out volume knob has no effect on the RCA out's sound.


----------



## Darknet

Well t1s should be coming in by the end of this week or early next week. Pretty excited for that lol. Though I suck at this tube stuff since I'm new at it... Lol Hope i don't get too lost while looking for tubes.
Edit: well according to usps its already out for shipping... instead of shipping on monday yay lol


----------



## TON13

Quote: 





darknet said:


> Well t1s should be coming in by the end of this week or early next week. Pretty excited for that lol. Though I suck at this tube stuff since I'm new at it... Lol Hope i don't get too lost while looking for tubes.


 
  I'm new as well but am really enjoying the T1.  I didn't know much about tubes but read this entire thread and it helped.  Have two new tubes on the way.  Can't wait.


----------



## joeq70

My Genalex Gold Lion will be here today, so I'll be posting impressions shortly!


----------



## joeq70

So far the Genalex is a very interesting tube. Very aggressive sounding indeed. Clear, forward mids. Punchier bass and cleaner sounding than the Voskhod I think.  Also the soundstage is a bit different, wider I think. It's gonna be a tough decision what to keep in the T1! More impressions to come later.


----------



## joeq70

I’ve now taken some time to listen and develop more fleshed out impressions.
  First, let me say that I have recently come to realize that the gain switches on the bottom of the T1 do not merely influence the volume, but also tonal balance. My experience is that the higher the gain, the punchier the bass with my Magnums at the same volume. This taken into account, I tend to favor 0 gain or +10 gain.(Unless I’m driving higher impedance phones like the HD800 or a Beyer, AKG, etc.)
   
  Given some time with the Genalex and comparing it to my precious Voskhod, I have to say I’m quite impressed and that I think I’ve found a new favorite tube. The Genalex has many of the qualities of the Voskhod I like, such as intimate mids and vocals, but the Genalex is able to deliver this to me with more clarity and soundstage. The extra clarity does make the T1 sound more digital and less analog than the Voskhod, but I still think it is ultimately a superior sound. At first, I thought the Genalex had punchier bass, but after adjusting to the sound, I realized I was mistaken and that the Voskhod was more tactile in this respect.  Then, I thought perhaps a gain adjustment would make a difference, and lo and behold, +10 did just the trick in bringing the Genalex bass up to where I wanted it. Good times!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> So far the Genalex is a very interesting tube. Very aggressive sounding indeed. Clear, forward mids. Punchier bass and cleaner sounding than the Voskhod I think.  Also the soundstage is a bit different, wider I think. It's gonna be a tough decision what to keep in the T1! More impressions to come later.


 
   
  +1. I think it's kind of like refined extended rocket. Very smooth and definitely better than EH imo. If only it wasn't so damn expensive. It's hard buy to justify especially since you can get OG at a fraction of the price.


----------



## joeq70

salvatore said:


> +1. I think it's kind of like refined extended rocket. Very smooth and definitely better than EH imo. If only it wasn't so damn expensive. It's hard buy to justify especially since you can get OG at a fraction of the price.



You can get an OG for less than $35?


----------



## Salvatore

Bought mine for $15 or less. One 4 pcs lot was $38 delivered. Well they are orange prints (early 70's A-frames) but still.
   
  E: Also got two rockets for $10 + shipping and Ultrons for €6.5 a piece. Keeping these deals in mind the $35 + $12 (shipping) for my gold lion was probably the worse deal I've done during this whole tube rolling time. At least it's the only deal I've regretted afterwards.
   
  E2: I mainly buy used NOS with good measurements because many NOS are fakes and used instead. You can also get nice single tube deals for T1. Many tube amplifiers need matched pairs or quadruplets which are hard to find and can cost a fortune.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Bought mine for $15 or less. One 4 pcs lot was $38 delivered. Well they are orange prints (early 70's A-frames) but still.


 
  That is solid indeed!


----------



## dennis611

Can I know the gain configuration for +8 coz according to the manual its not shown.


----------



## icecap

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> E2: I mainly buy used NOS with good measurements because many NOS are fakes and used instead. You can also get nice single tube deals for T1. Many tube amplifiers need matched pairs or quadruplets which are hard to find and can cost a fortune.


 
   
  +1
   
  pre map tubes don't need to be matched per se like power tubes do.. http://www.tubeaudiostore.com/tubmatdem.html


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





dennis611 said:


> Can I know the gain configuration for +8 coz according to the manual its not shown.


 
  Sorry I made a mistake.  I have it set to +10 gain. You can select 0, +10, +16.
   
  To set it to +10 I have the white switches on the bottom marked number 1 set to ON, while the switches marked 2 are off.


----------



## dennis611

dennis611 said:


> Can I know the gain configuration for +8 coz according to the manual its not shown.







joeq70 said:


> Sorry I made a mistake.  I have it set to +10 gain. You can select 0, +10, +16.
> 
> To set it to +10 I have the white switches on the bottom marked number 1 set to ON, while the switches marked 2 are off.




I see...You got me there. Thought if its possible I will switch it to +5


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Sorry I made a mistake.  I have it set to +10 gain. You can select 0, +10, +16.
> 
> To set it to +10 I have the white switches on the bottom marked number 1 set to ON, while the switches marked 2 are off.


 
  I'm curious now. You've modded your Grado's with the Magnum stuff correct? What impedance are the drivers?
 I'm wondering if I can get more out of my 64ohm headphones by going up to +10. Right now I'm using +0 because that seemed the most correct choice based on the impedance of my cans.


----------



## joeq70

inphu510n said:


> I'm curious now. You've modded your Grado's with the Magnum stuff correct? What impedance are the drivers?
> 
> I'm wondering if I can get more out of my 64ohm headphones by going up to +10. Right now I'm using +0 because that seemed the most correct choice based on the impedance of my cans.



Well, technically nothing about my headphones is Grado at all except the headband, but yep I have Magnum X's. I don't know the impedance of the drivers actually but it's pretty low I think, maybe 32 ohm? Really, it's easy to change the gain switches on the Aune. The only way to see if it makes your cans sound better is to try it!


----------



## Darknet

Well good news is getting an orange globe lol. I'm already fairly impressed with the 6922eh the t1 came with but the mids are bothering me a bit so I just read a bit and got the orange globe.... Let's hope these are as good as people make them out to be... or at least noticeably better than the 6922eh. These pair pretty well with my q701s though the mdr 1rs don't sound too great, but those are portable/ low impedance too and that doesn't really help.


----------



## dennis611

Don't know if its been mentioned here before but is the JJ E88c gold pin any better than the 6922EH? I read somewhere the sound is just d opposite. I do find the EH sounds a bit thin.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





dennis611 said:


> Don't know if its been mentioned here before but is the JJ E88c gold pin any better than the 6922EH? I read somewhere the sound is just d opposite. I do find the EH sounds a bit thin.


 
   
  I don't personally know if it's better because I haven't heard them, but I did a quick search and came across this:
   
   


tommo21 said:


> As a cheap tube I would also recommend Jan Philips 6922, one of the better "new" ones. I found it miles better than EH6922 and JJ...but my JJ's were the E88CC kind...


----------



## inphu510n

dennis611 said:


> Don't know if its been mentioned here before but is the JJ E88c gold pin any better than the 6922EH? I read somewhere the sound is just d opposite. I do find the EH sounds a bit thin.




In my experience the JJ are not significantly better than the EH. Off the top of my head I can't tell you exactly why, possibly that I found the bass to be lacking and the overall timbre slightly odd. All I can recall right now is that the JJ 6922 and Reflector 6N23P-EV are my least favorite tubes.


----------



## dennis611

Thank for the inputs. What do u guys think about the HP 6dj8 a-frame (Mullards) ? These are GB made.


----------



## penmarker

Well guys, I guess I gotta bid you all goodbye. I brought my unit to a friend for repairs regarding the channel imbalance, he liked it immediately compared to his iBasso D-Zero and UD100. Gave me an offer I can't refuse so I sold it to him. I'm in the market for some vintage amplifiers now. 

Thanks for the rollercoaster ride guys. Goodnight, and good luck.


----------



## joeq70

penmarker said:


> Well guys, I guess I gotta bid you all goodbye. I brought my unit to a friend for repairs regarding the channel imbalance, he liked it immediately compared to his iBasso D-Zero and UD100. Gave me an offer I can't refuse so I sold it to him. I'm in the market for some vintage amplifiers now.
> 
> Thanks for the rollercoaster ride guys. Goodnight, and good luck.



Good luck man! Maybe you'll come back some day!


----------



## teb1013

joeq70 said:


> Good luck man! Maybe you'll come back some day!




+1


----------



## MrEleventy

Yeah, you should just rebuy it.


----------



## startyourengine

i just received my aune t1 today from earth city sound. After i plugged it in, turned it on, the usb driver installed itself, no sound!  i panicked a bit, checked my foobar setting, there was a new wasapi aune t1 output, selected that, there was my sound haha, such a noob i was. usb in, rca out to my a1 amp so far i'm not sure i can tell much difference from not having it lol, i think there is a very slight better detail and sound stage improvement, it is very little though if any on my hd598. can't tell any difference on my dt880. now i wait for my amperex 7308 its suppose to be here tomorrow, curious to see what difference that has over the 6922eh.
   
  one more thing, i don't know how do you guys secure the protective plastic shielding thingy for the tube, the feet are bigger than the holes, sand paper time?


----------



## DMax99

Aren't the feet a little flexible?


----------



## teb1013

startyourengine said:


> i just received my aune t1 today from earth city sound. After i plugged it in, turned it on, the usb driver installed itself, no sound!  i panicked a bit, checked my foobar setting, there was a new wasapi aune t1 output, selected that, there was my sound haha, such a noob i was. usb in, rca out to my a1 amp so far i'm not sure i can tell much difference from not having it lol, i think there is a very slight better detail and sound stage improvement, it is very little though if any on my hd598. can't tell any difference on my dt880. now i wait for my amperex 7308 its suppose to be here tomorrow, curious to see what difference that has over the 6922eh.
> 
> one more thing, i don't know how do you guys secure the protective plastic shielding thingy for the tube, the feet are bigger than the holes, sand paper time?





Frankly the T1 did a world of difference over my Fiio e7 while driving the HD 558s (same driver as your 598s, but some of the improvement is subtle. The Amperex 7308 is a great tube. I use it almost exclusively. 

I never installed the little plastic guard on my unit. It didn't look like it would provide too much protection anyway.


----------



## Brendo09

Yeah, I'm with teb1013. It would only protect the tube if it's in an area where wither it could get knocked or little fingers could attack it. Mine is not under attack from anything, so I left it off. It looks much nicer.


----------



## startyourengine

Quote: 





dmax99 said:


> Aren't the feet a little flexible?


 
     its dimension is slightly bigger than the hole, the arms connecting the feet is flexible yes, but that is not whats not working, i'm changing tube tomorrow anyway, might as well leave them off.
  Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> Frankly the T1 did a world of difference over my Fiio e7 while driving the HD 558s (same driver as your 598s, but some of the improvement is subtle. The Amperex 7308 is a great tube. I use it almost exclusively.
> 
> I never installed the little plastic guard on my unit. It didn't look like it would provide too much protection anyway.


 
  i think i'm loving it now, i can't describe it what was the definite improvement, but just yesterday i thought my dt880 was a superior can, but now with t1 in the chain i'm not sure about that anymore, the dt880 might have a fuller body of sound, but i like hd598 better now, before using the t1 i thought the only scenario i prefer the 598 over the 880 was vocal, i would say i like the pairing of 598 with t1 better than 880 with t1. lol, i can't wait for the 7308 tube.
   
  Quote: 





brendo09 said:


> Yeah, I'm with teb1013. It would only protect the tube if it's in an area where wither it could get knocked or *little fingers could attack it*. *Mine is not under attack from anything*, so I left it off. It looks much nicer.


 
     lol, you are funny. i think i'll do just that, it's not under attack from anything, and plus i don't want to break anything with a brute force approach.


----------



## Darknet

Kind of had the same issue with the "feet" being a bit large but if you just push it in *carefully* you should be fine. Though I'm scared to take them out now... but I'll have to eventually when the orange globe gets here.
   
  Edit: its actually suprisingly easy to take out.... I think if you make sure the feet are flat when you put it in and remove them you'll be fine.


----------



## startyourengine

Quote: 





darknet said:


> Kind of had the same issue with the "feet" being a bit large but if you just push it in *carefully* you should be fine. Though I'm scared to take them out now... but I'll have to eventually when the orange globe gets here.
> 
> Edit: *its actually suprisingly easy to take out*.... I think if you make sure the feet are flat when you put it in and remove them you'll be fine.


 
  thanks for the very descriptive explanation, i'll try that. it's a bit more assuring now having read the bolded. cheers!


----------



## Darknet

Quote: 





startyourengine said:


> thanks for the very descriptive explanation, i'll try that. it's a bit more assuring now having read the bolded. cheers!


 
   
  No guarantees hehe there's kind of a learning curve but now I can put it in and take it out easily without fear of breaking it.


----------



## MrEleventy

That is... until you break it.


----------



## DMax99

darknet said:


> Kind of had the same issue with the "feet" being a bit large but if you just push it in *carefully* you should be fine. Though I'm scared to take them out now... but I'll have to eventually when the orange globe gets here.
> 
> Edit: its actually suprisingly easy to take out.... I think if you make sure the feet are flat when you put it in and remove them you'll be fine.





Huh? There is a light globe you can change underneath the tube?


----------



## Illbetheone

What do you guys this is the best all around tube for this bad boy? The one that it came with sounds pretty good but was wondering what the next step up would be?


----------



## teb1013

illbetheone said:


> What do you guys this is the best all around tube for this bad boy? The one that it came with sounds pretty good but was wondering what the next step up would be?




Go to the thread starter, this includes Salvatore's links to a huge amount of information about tubes. The 9622 eh which came with my T1 is a good starter tube. My favorite is the Amperex 7308 but a lot depends on your phones and the music you like.


----------



## Brendo09

heck, it's only just dawned on me that the tube protector had a plastic travel coating on it. Take that muck off and the plastic is crystal clear. Looks good, and would be pretty in the evening.


----------



## startyourengine

how much a difference is there between the driver, gold, and platinum grade of the 7308 tube, which grade do you guys get usually?


----------



## inphu510n

startyourengine said:


> how much a difference is there between the driver, gold, and platinum grade of the 7308 tube, which grade do you guys get usually?




Driver grade for this application.
You're not actually powering the audio with it so matched sections and all that means less.


----------



## teb1013

inphu510n said:


> Driver grade for this application.
> You're not actually powering the audio with it so matched sections and all that means less.




Agreed. I got the driver grade. It works fine and was a good deal cheaper. To my knowledge, Upscale audio is the only seller that uses this categorization.


----------



## Illbetheone

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> Go to the thread starter, this includes Salvatore's links to a huge amount of information about tubes. The 9622 eh which came with my T1 is a good starter tube. My favorite is the Amperex 7308 but a lot depends on your phones and the music you like.


 
  The starter thread doesn't really compare any of those tubes with the stock tube. I currently have the Audio-Technica WS99 and listen to a variety of EDM music. I was just wondering what a good all-around upgrade would be from the stock tube.
   
  I heard good things about that Russian Rocket tube but that's nearly impossible to find these days so just trying to see what else there is.


----------



## startyourengine

Quote: 





brendo09 said:


> heck, it's only just dawned on me that the tube protector had a plastic travel coating on it. Take that muck off and the plastic is crystal clear. Looks good, and would be pretty in the evening.


 
  yes, lol at first i thought them having everything packed neat and tidy except the inclusion these "dirty" protectors were very out of place. then i found out about the peel off plastic coating.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





illbetheone said:


> The starter thread doesn't really compare any of those tubes with the stock tube. I currently have the Audio-Technica WS99 and listen to a variety of EDM music. I was just wondering what a good all-around upgrade would be from the stock tube.
> 
> I heard good things about that Russian Rocket tube but that's nearly impossible to find these days so just trying to see what else there is.


 
  I admit that I already had some NOS tubes in hand when I first got my T1. I listened to the stock tube briefly then listened to the NOS Russian tubes, and I haven't gone back (although my favorite is now the Genalex Gold Lion). I actually lost the stock tube...not sure where it went off to. Anyway, I think the most reliably praised replacement tube is the Amperex 7308.


----------



## Illbetheone

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> I admit that I already had some NOS tubes in hand when I first got my T1. I listened to the stock tube briefly then listened to the NOS Russian tubes, and I haven't gone back (although my favorite is now the Genalex Gold Lion). I actually lost the stock tube...not sure where it went off to. Anyway, I think the most reliably praised replacement tube is the Amperex 7308.


 
  Thanks! Would you mind briefly comparing the Amperex and Gold Lion tubes?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





illbetheone said:


> The starter thread doesn't really compare any of those tubes with the stock tube. I currently have the Audio-Technica WS99 and listen to a variety of EDM music. I was just wondering what a good all-around upgrade would be from the stock tube.
> 
> I heard good things about that Russian Rocket tube but that's nearly impossible to find these days so just trying to see what else there is.


 
  Get cheap NOS Tungsram PCC88 from eBay. Like I`ve said it many times it has tighter and punchier bass & kick and has great large soundstage that is great for EDM imo. Mids are also littlebit better than 6922EH. Great tube for all kind of electronic music, especially for the price. Here`s one I found fast from eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCC88-TUNGSRAM-TESTED-SINGLE-TUBE-NOS-PERFECT-SHAPE-MADE-IN-HUNGARY-/221264236750?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item33846050ce


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





illbetheone said:


> Thanks! Would you mind briefly comparing the Amperex and Gold Lion tubes?


 
  These two tubes are both excellent but very, very different. The Amperex is a smooth, detailed, holographic sounding tube. The Amperex makes you feel surrounded and immersed in the sound and it is well balanced. It is ultimately a more laid-back sound that I think appeals to many. The Genalex is also very detailed and the sound stage is wide and natural sounding but it is not quite as "holographic" as the Amperex. This idea is hard to explain unless you hear it. The Genalex has nice punchy bass and is a generally intimate, forward sound. Think of it this way: The Genalex is like standing dead center front row of a concert with all of the beautiful details smashing into you while the Amperex is like sitting a few rows back and having an orchestra of sounds surrounding you. I'm not sure exactly which tube is specifically best for electronic and trance music. I can say that I definitely enjoy how Purity Ring sounds on the Genalex and that I haven't owned the Amperex in a while so I can't compare it directly.


----------



## inphu510n

Woot Purity Ring!

There are a number of tube comparison posts which should be linked in the first post of this thread. Additionally there are a few pages scattered around the web which describe differences in the 6DJ8 family of tubes.
Overall though, you have to experiment.
Some people prefer the sound of tubes "lower" on the scale of quality or find the expense of the higher priced tubes to be unjustified.
There are general "house sounds" which differentiate tube makers.
Also, your specific combination of source material and physical equipment is going to be different than anyone else's.
The reason you roll tubes is to find the best synergy between all of your equipment and your own ears.


----------



## icecap

Haven't got a yellow label for tungsram myself, but loving the transparent signature of my red label which is considered industrial grade and seemingly more robust and better sounding..


----------



## Illbetheone

You guys are right, I guess this is something I have to hear for myself. Regardless, it's always nice to get an opinion in order to point me (and my wallet) in the right direction.
   
  I went ahead and grabbed the NOS Tungsram PCC88 on eBay for $20 shipped and also grabbed the Genalex Gold Lion as well. Either way, what I don't like I can always sell for some loss.


----------



## CoiL

Cool. Don`t forget to give your opinions about 6922EH vs. Tungsram PCC88 vs. Genalex gold lion since our gears & ears are different.
  Although first two are different sounding than genalex as I read joeq70 impressions. If I take his opinion, then it should be more or less like the difference between 6922EH & Tungsram PCC88 vs. 6N23P reflector (I own all these). First two are with huge soundstage which is great for electronic music imho and 6N23P is like in front of and middle of stage with intimate warm sound (genalex should be much better (clearer) than 6n23p which is for me like "through the blanket" sounding).


----------



## teb1013

joeq70 said:


> These two tubes are both excellent but very, very different. The Amperex is a smooth, detailed, holographic sounding tube. The Amperex makes you feel surrounded and immersed in the sound and it is well balanced. It is ultimately a more laid-back sound that I think appeals to many. The Genalex is also very detailed and the sound stage is wide and natural sounding but it is not quite as "holographic" as the Amperex. This idea is hard to explain unless you hear it. The Genalex has nice punchy bass and is a generally intimate, forward sound. Think of it this way: The Genalex is like standing dead center front row of a concert with all of the beautiful details smashing into you while the Amperex is like sitting a few rows back and having an orchestra of sounds surrounding you. I'm not sure exactly which tube is specifically best for electronic and trance music. I can say that I definitely enjoy how Purity Ring sounds on the Genalex and that I haven't owned the Amperex in a while so I can't compare it directly.




Interesting comparison! Now I want to try the Genalex to compare it with my Amperex.


----------



## AS777

Hi All, this is my first post here and I would just like to say what an amazing thread, and yes, I've actually read through all pages! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  The nett result is that I have taken delivery of my Aune T1 day before yesterday, but because I was fast asleep I've accidentally ordered one with a 110V PSU 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. So $100 (NZD) later I now have an isolated step down transformer to power my PSU. I am hoping this transformer will aid somehow with the audio quality (maybe that is just wishful thinking on my part).
   
  Current listening is though my Sennheiser Momentums (also due to a lot of feedback from another head-fi thread) and I now FULLY understand the WOW factor with this little DAC. Initially sound was poor with no bass and a weird "ghosting" effect on vocals. After trying numerous Foobar settings etc. finally out of desperation I swapped the supplied 6.5mm adapter with the one from my Momentums and the effect was jaw dropping!!! Man this DAC sounds good...
   
  Now, this is my first serious foray into head fi with most of my music enjoyment to date from my TEAC DVD player -> Decware valve amp -> Lowther PM6A DIY open baffle speakers with Hawthorne OB subs driven by a pair of Dayton SA240's.
   
  You may be interested to learn that my little Aune will find it's final "resting place" in that system. My aim is to replace my TEAC and drive the Aune from a Raspifi (http://www.raspyfi.com) system. I can't wait for the weekend! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  Maybe I will type up a little "how to" to document my actions as I get the DAC working with the Raspberry Pi. Source material will either be ripped CDs or material from HDTracks.com.
   
  Well, that is it for now.
   
  Andre


----------



## teb1013

Welcome Andre, glad you're enjoying the T1.


----------



## Inevitability

Hi there!  This is my first post here at Head-fi and i'm glad to be part of this forum that i've been following for years.
  I've just bought an Aune T1 with EH 6922 Tube (this is my first DAC+Amp) and, although i have to say it sounds really really good, more than i was expecting, i noticed a channel imbalance. The left channel is louder than the right one; so i decided to test it with RMAA 6.2.5 and it confirmed my impression. But that's not all. The results of the test were very disappointing. The PC sound card in comparison is considerably better, although it sounds worse, Are those tests reliable?
  Should I send it back for the channel imbalance?
   
  Thank You in advance
   
  This is the summary of the test (without graphs)
   
 Summary 
 Frequency response (from 40 Hz to 15 kHz), dB  +0.11, -1.25
  Average
 Noise level, dB (A)  -54.6
  Poor
 Dynamic range, dB (A)  54.4
  Poor
 THD, %  0.251
  Poor
 THD + Noise, dB (A)  -46.6
  Poor
 IMD + Noise, %  0.504
  Poor
 Stereo crosstalk, dB  -54.9
  Poor
 IMD at 10 kHz, %  0.491
  Poor
 *General performance*   
 *Average*


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





inevitability said:


> Hi there!  This is my first post here at Head-fi and i'm glad to be part of this forum that i've been following for years.
> I've just bought an Aune T1 with EH 6922 Tube (this is my first DAC+Amp) and, although i have to say it sounds really really good, more than i was expecting, i noticed a channel imbalance. The left channel is louder than the right one; so i decided to test it with RMAA 6.2.5 and it confirmed my impression. But that's not all. The results of the test were very disappointing. The PC sound card in comparison is considerably better, although it sounds worse, Are those tests reliable?
> Should I send it back for the channel imbalance?
> 
> ...


 
   
  I've heard of a few people on here with channel imbalance issues, and if I were you, I would return it for a replacement. Sure, it could be the tube at fault, but why mess around with that when you should have received a properly working product the first time. Secondly, my advice to you is to trust your ears. Maybe those ratings are poor due to the cheap tube and maybe they are not, but I've listened to enough audio equipment to recognize that the T1 is far superior to any PC sound card, at least that I've heard. If I were you, I would send back the defective unit for a working one and order a couple of the awesome tubes mentioned in this thread in the meantime. Then when it all comes together, I would forget about the measurements, sit back, and enjoy the music.


----------



## MrEleventy

joeq70 said:


> I've heard of a few people on here with channel imbalance issues, and if I were you, I would return it for a replacement. Sure, it could be the tube at fault, but why mess around with that when you should have received a properly working product the first time. Secondly, my advice to you is to trust your ears. Maybe those ratings are poor due to the cheap tube and maybe they are not, but I've listened to enough audio equipment to recognize that the T1 is far superior to any PC sound card, at least that I've heard. If I were you, I would send back the defective unit for a working one and order a couple of the awesome tubes mentioned in this thread in the meantime. Then when it all comes together, I would forget about the measurements, sit back, and enjoy the music.


+1 Well said Joeq. If it sounds great but measures terrible, the only thing keeping you from enjoying yourself is your brain telling your ears, "But it measures terribly!". Tell your brain to shut up and enjoy the music.


----------



## marts30

Quote: 





as777 said:


> Hi All, this is my first post here and I would just like to say what an amazing thread, and yes, I've actually read through all pages!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Also got mine today in NZ from massdrop. Got the right voltage but still need an adapter to change the plug from US to NZ... only cost me $20 though not 100 
   
  Didn't expect it to sound this good! (even with stock tube) Really perfect for my magnums which I like a whole lot better than on my Little Dot I+
   
  (my shipping notification still says [size=12.727272033691406px]Order Processed: Ready for UPS lol)[/size]


----------



## MRpilgrim

Can anyone do a comparison between the Aune t1 and the little dot 1+(using a cheap USB dac like fiio e7 with LOD) ? Thanks in advance


----------



## marts30

Quote: 





mrpilgrim said:


> Can anyone do a comparison between the Aune t1 and the little dot 1+(using a cheap USB dac like fiio e7 with LOD) ? Thanks in advance


 
   
  Was running my I+ through my xonar essence, but the T1 just sounds more 'tubey', really a lot nicer with my (grado) magnums/ms2 than the little dot with the stock T1 tube. I only got it today so can't post much in-depth but needless to say I'll be selling my little dot (to fund some tubes


----------



## inphu510n

marts30:
How much tube rolling have you done with the LD1+?
There are a LOT more tubes out there for that amp than you think. Stuff that isn't EF95/92 at all and sounds better than the Voskhods.


----------



## marts30

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> marts30:
> How much tube rolling have you done with the LD1+?
> There are a LOT more tubes out there for that amp than you think. Stuff that isn't EF95/92 at all and sounds better than the Voskhods.


 
   
  I haven't done a lot, was using the voskhods (how did you know? ) T1 just seems like the better deal to me, and I would rather tube roll for that... as even the default sound is more to my liking than the stock LD I+ or voskhods.


----------



## Inevitability

Thank you guys for your advices. But at this point, if you think those test doens't mean anything, i'd better get a new tube instead of sending the item back, as it will cost about 35 €. Anyway at high volumes it's hard to notice the channel imbalance that is clearly audible at lower volumes (as one channel sounds while the other is mute).
  I was thinking about a Tesla N.O.S gold pin(39 €), a used Sylvania gold pin (25 €) or a Siemens N.O.S gold pin( 57 €). What do you suggest me, keeping in mind that i''m going to use the Aune with a Sennheiser HD598)?


----------



## teb1013

inevitability said:


> Thank you guys for your advices. But at this point, if you think those test doens't mean anything, i'd better get a new tube instead of sending the item back, as it will cost about 35 €. Anyway at high volumes it's hard to notice the channel imbalance that is clearly audible at lower volumes (as one channel sounds while the other is mute).
> I was thinking about a Tesla N.O.S gold pin(39 €), a used Sylvania gold pin (25 €) or a Siemens N.O.S gold pin( 57 €). What do you suggest me, keeping in mind that i''m going to use the Aune with a Sennheiser HD598)?




The 598 should be great with the T1. I have the 558 and it brought these to life. I usually listen at over 1/ 2 volume with 0 gain. Low volume can cause some imbalance. Look up the tubes you mention in the thread search function. I believe that there are posts on them. Coil has done posts on the Tesla. Good luck.


----------



## debuchan

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> The 598 should be great with the T1. I have the 558 and it brought these to life. I usually listen at over 1/ 2 volume with 0 gain. Low volume can cause some imbalance. Look up the tubes you mention in the thread search function. I believe that there are posts on them. Coil has done posts on the Tesla. Good luck.


 
  I have the HD598 and can confirm it sounds great with the Aune T1.


----------



## marts30

Anywhere I can get an Amperex 7308 with cheap shipping? Really don't want to pay $53 shipping from upscaleaudio.
   
  Quartz said they're getting stock in 2 weeks, which is only $3 shipping worldwide *lol*... may just wait for that.


----------



## dennis611

I've always wondered if of the opamps in the T1 is swappable? Any ideas...


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





dennis611 said:


> I've always wondered if of the opamps in the T1 is swappable? Any ideas...


 
  They're definitely swappable. The question is, how good are your soldering skills?


----------



## dennis611

inphu510n said:


> They're definitely swappable. The question is, how good are your soldering skills?
> [/quote
> 
> Is there a dip8 socket where we can just plug & play?


----------



## MrEleventy

dennis611 said:


> inphu510n said:
> 
> 
> > They're definitely swappable. The question is, how good are your soldering skills?
> ...


no, it's soldered on.


----------



## inphu510n

You know... now I'm wondering. I might have an extra dip8 socket and a few opamps sitting around.
Removing the stock opamp and replacing it with a dip8 socket wouldn't be hard at all and then I'd be able to roll opamps!
Who's interested?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





marts30 said:


> Anywhere I can get an Amperex 7308 with cheap shipping? Really don't want to pay $53 shipping from upscaleaudio.
> 
> Quartz said they're getting stock in 2 weeks, which is only $3 shipping worldwide *lol*... may just wait for that.


 
   
  Yeah quartz have very low shipping costs and from my personal experiences the Singaporean airmail is very fast too. It's also good to keep in mind that the prices are in Singaporean dollars


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





inevitability said:


> Thank you guys for your advices. But at this point, if you think those test doens't mean anything, i'd better get a new tube instead of sending the item back, as it will cost about 35 €. Anyway at high volumes it's hard to notice the channel imbalance that is clearly audible at lower volumes (as one channel sounds while the other is mute).
> I was thinking about a Tesla N.O.S gold pin(39 €), a used Sylvania gold pin (25 €) or a Siemens N.O.S gold pin( 57 €). What do you suggest me, keeping in mind that i''m going to use the Aune with a Sennheiser HD598)?


 
  Depends on what genre you mostly listen. Tesla PCC88 (32 & 37 white label, 32 yellow label) are good for classical imo. 32 yellow label czech is the best out of them. Can`t say anything about Telsa ECC88, E88CC or PCC189 though. If you are listening mostly electronic music, would probably go for Sylvana gold pin but if you listen almost everything would probably go for Siemens. Not sure again what type of Siemens are you talking about. Siemens PCC189 is very good. PCC88 version is also good but littlebit less clear/transparent and more "warmer" sounding.
  Well, for me all those tubes you mentioned are too expensive and would go for NOS tubes from eBay or straight for Amperex 7308. It really depends on what music you like mostly and what are your personal preferences - warm, intimate & "old" sounding or large soundstage/air, clearness and transparency... or something in "middle" like Amperex OG / Ultron PCC189 / Siemens PCC189 / Miniwatt-Dario PCC189/ECC189.


----------



## Kaaf

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> You know... now I'm wondering. I might have an extra dip8 socket and a few opamps sitting around.
> Removing the stock opamp and replacing it with a dip8 socket wouldn't be hard at all and then I'd be able to roll opamps!
> Who's interested?


 
  What do you mean? Do you want me to do the swapping/soldering?
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  Whatever you are doing I'm interested! But I'm a bit afraid that I will ruin my SS board. So a test unit will be nice. Does anyone have a defective T1 which is doing nothing? Then I'm Interested. Or I would only need this small SS board with the dipswiches on it. The NE5532 (which is a very good opamp already) could possibly be swapped with a OPA 2134
   
  Altough I have a degree in electrical engineering my knowledge has decreased enormously. So I'm not really confident ...


----------



## dennis611

inphu510n said:


> You know... now I'm wondering. I might have an extra dip8 socket and a few opamps sitting around.
> Removing the stock opamp and replacing it with a dip8 socket wouldn't be hard at all and then I'd be able to roll opamps!
> Who's interested?




That's an interesting thought!!. Always wished the T1 is like the Maverick Audio D1 where one can easily change the ss & tube opamp..


----------



## Inevitability

Quote: 





coil said:


> Depends on what genre you mostly listen. Tesla PCC88 (32 & 37 white label, 32 yellow label) are good for classical imo. 32 yellow label czech is the best out of them. Can`t say anything about Telsa ECC88, E88CC or PCC189 though. If you are listening mostly electronic music, would probably go for Sylvana gold pin but if you listen almost everything would probably go for Siemens. Not sure again what type of Siemens are you talking about. Siemens PCC189 is very good. PCC88 version is also good but littlebit less clear/transparent and more "warmer" sounding.
> Well, for me all those tubes you mentioned are too expensive and would go for NOS tubes from eBay or straight for Amperex 7308. It really depends on what music you like mostly and what are your personal preferences - warm, intimate & "old" sounding or large soundstage/air, clearness and transparency... or something in "middle" like Amperex OG / Ultron PCC189 / Siemens PCC189 / Miniwatt-Dario PCC189/ECC189.


 
  Thank You CoiL, you've been very detailed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I listen almost everything but  in particular Progressive Rock. So I'd like to have 2 tubes, one with a large soundstage and a clear and trasparent sound (for progressive rock) and one with a warm and intimate sound (for any other genre).


----------



## marts30

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Yeah quartz have very low shipping costs and from my personal experiences the Singaporean airmail is very fast too. It's also good to keep in mind that the prices are in Singaporean dollars


 
   
  SGD is almost exactly the same as NZD


----------



## noxa

So close to jumping on this but i'm really looking for an amo that will drive my higher and lower impedance cans, has anyone tried this on headphones lower than the suggested 32ohm minimum?


----------



## MrEleventy

dmax99 said:


> I was part of the 1st group buy. The gain controls at the bottom of the unit wasn't properly lined up, which I don't really care because I don't think I'll ever change the gain setting.
> 
> What really annoyed me was the fact that my unit didn't come with an USB cable and Aus power adapter as stated on their website in the description.
> 
> ...




Things like missing parts & shoddier build quality is why HF is against groupbuys like this. And that's typically the main complaint that ppl have with groupon stuff as well. The manufacturer never anticipate the flood of orders that they'll get and they'll need to start cutting corners somewhere to provide units on time. It's a great deal for consumers in the short run who get the initial order but ppl after that get shafted either not receiving or quality.


----------



## inphu510n

There are likely other reasons group buys cannot be discussed on this site. I imagine some reasons, as suggested are quality concerns. Linked to that are support issues of the kind we're seeing talked about now.

Yazen needs to contact the group buy site, not this thread.
Posts about that site are regularly deleted here.

As to your question, the poor quality of your headphone jack could cause audio issues. Not because the coating on the jack's ring is oxidized or scratched. That would never affect audio quality because that piece is cosmetic.
You would experience some small, possibly audible issues if the contacts inside the jack are oxidized or severely malformed.


----------



## marts30

My unit is fine, sorry for those whose isn't!


----------



## Yazen

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> There are likely other reasons group buys cannot be discussed on this site. I imagine some reasons, as suggested are quality concerns. Linked to that are support issues as we're watching be discussed now.
> 
> Yazen needs to contact the group buy site, not this thread.
> Posts about that site are regularly deleted here.


 
   
  Just wanted to see if audio quality would be impacted, as I can live with a few scratches.  
   
  You're writing in 3rd person, I have my suspicions about you sir 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  EDIT:


mreleventy said:


> Why not try it out first and see if there's a loss in audio quality? That's like buying a car and then going on a forum to ask how it handles... Just try it out and enjoy. Or go back and gripe. Either ways, hook it up!


 
  I'm having a hard time setting it up at the moment. When I get back home I'll have some free time today to see if any wiggling will get my computer to identify the new device.
   
   
  Did not know it was against the rules. Moderators, don't look here!  Nothing is happening


----------



## Gorantosic

I just bought the aune t1 and I am using some skull candy earbuds to test it out and it sounds very high-pitched and distorted so much to the point where I can't listen anymore. I do have some akg k272hd headphones but they are being repaired at the moment and I can't listen with them. They are my primary listening tool. So my question is, Does the aune t1 sound so poorly because im not using my akg's or is it because of something else?


----------



## Yazen

Quote: 





gorantosic said:


> I just bought the aune t1 and I am using some skull candy earbuds to test it out and it sounds very high-pitched and distorted so much to the point where I can't listen anymore. I do have some akg k272hd headphones but they are being repaired at the moment and I can't listen with them. They are my primary listening tool. So my question is, Does the aune t1 sound so poorly because im not using my akg's or is it because of something else?


 
  Its because you're using earbuds!  haha
  Turn all the gain switches on the bottom to the off position, and try again.
   
  Its an impedance issue.


----------



## MrEleventy

From an out of box, cold start, it might take a little while for everything to warm up. Once it does, the LED will kick on and Windows should detect it. I was worried at first about it not getting detected as soon as I threw the switch on. I thought it was DOA. My only minor gripe is that I wish the switch was labeled on/off instead of SW. Not very helpful.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





inevitability said:


> Thank You CoiL, you've been very detailed
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  Well, here our opinions split. I also listen mostly progressive rock/metal (Dead Letter Circus, Karnivool, Tool, Mars Volta, Porcupine Tree, King Crimson, Dream Theater, Tesseract etc.) and imo best tubes with this genre are Amperex OG GAC & Ultron SQ PCC189 gold label. They are in the "middle range" of soundstage "size" (sweetspot imho) and are airy, clear, transparent and with warm dynamic highs. Siemens PCC189 is also very good, imo littlebit better than Mullard ECC88, Philips PCC189, Miniwatt-Dario ECC189/PCC189 for this genre.
   
  I would go for Amperex OG or Siemens PCC189 for prog rock and honestly, Siemens PCC189 suits very well for other genres too. If you can find, then Ultron SQ PCC189 gold label is my best tube for prog rock. Easiest way is to go with Amperex OG.
  Intimate & warm tubes like 6N23P reflektor, Mazda Belvu PCC189, Mullard PCC189 and Valvo PCC88 are good for old style rock and old records and for those who enjoy "old" sound but not good for every genre imho.


----------



## Yazen

Quote: 





coil said:


> Well, here our opinions split. I also listen mostly progressive rock/metal (Dead Letter Circus, Karnivool, Tool, Mars Volta, Porcupine Tree, King Crimson, Dream Theater, Tesseract etc.) and imo best tubes with this genre are Amperex OG GAC & Ultron SQ PCC189 gold label. They are in the "middle range" of soundstage "size" (sweetspot imho) and are airy, clear, transparent and with warm dynamic highs. Siemens PCC189 is also very good, imo littlebit better than Mullard ECC88, Philips PCC189, Miniwatt-Dario ECC189/PCC189 for this genre.
> 
> I would go for Amperex OG or Siemens PCC189 for prog rock and honestly, Siemens PCC189 suits very well for other genres too. If you can find, then Ultron SQ PCC189 gold label is my best tube for prog rock. Easiest way is to go with Amperex OG.
> Intimate & warm tubes like 6N23P reflektor, Mazda Belvu PCC189, Mullard PCC189 and Valvo PCC88 are good for old style rock and old records and for those who enjoy "old" sound but not good for every genre imho.


 
  Any tube that would sound particular darker than the others?


----------



## MrEleventy

No personal experience myself but Brent Jesse from Audiotubes.com suggest Mullards for warm/dark sounding tubes. LINKY. I prefer a more neutral-warm kind of sound so I stick with TFK and Amperex in the 6DJ8 family.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





yazen said:


> Any tube that would sound particular darker than the others?


 
   


> Intimate & warm tubes like 6N23P reflektor, Mazda Belvu PCC189, Mullard PCC189 and Valvo PCC88 are good for old style rock and old records and for those who enjoy "old" sound but not good for every genre imho.


 
  Mazda Belvu PCC189 & Mullard PCC189 probably but I`m not sure what you mean about darker. 6N23P reflektor is very foward sounding tube, small soundstage, intimate & warm but it sounds too "through the blanket" and not in the good "dark" way imo. Mullard PCC189 is very interesting old sounding but I don`t remember anymore which color logo it had (came off) and I have 2 other Mullard PCC189`s but they are out of working condition so I can`t compare. They all are with old mullard logo not the newer shield logo and all should be made in england Blackburn if I remember correctly. Use search function to find my impressions about them, don`t remember anymore, sry.


----------



## harshtimez

[size=11.0pt]I’m running my Aune T1 in between my Imac (Audirvana) to my Qinpu A3 and into my 686’s. I’d like to add an USB-S/PIDF Converter. But don’t know these questions below:[/size]
   
[size=11.0pt]1.       [/size][size=11.0pt]Will I be able to run 24/192 files?[/size]
[size=11.0pt]2.       [/size][size=11.0pt]Which brand do you recommend? I’m thinking M2 since they’re decently priced.[/size]
[size=11.0pt]3.       [/size][size=11.0pt]Will it even benefit my Aune T1? [/size]
[size=11.0pt]Thanks[/size]


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





harshtimez said:


> [size=11.0pt]I’m running my Aune T1 in between my Imac (Audirvana) to my Qinpu A3 and into my 686’s. I’d like to add an USB-S/PIDF Converter. But don’t know these questions below:[/size]
> 
> [size=11.0pt]1.       [/size][size=11.0pt]Will I be able to run 24/192 files?[/size]
> [size=11.0pt]2.       [/size][size=11.0pt]Which brand do you recommend? I’m thinking M2 since they’re decently priced.[/size]
> ...


 
  You must use the USB input on the T1 in order to use the tube DAC built into it. It has to be connected to a computer (or some Android devices).
  I'm unclear about how you would use a USB-S/PDIF converter with your current setup though I'm assuming you'd like to run it between your iMac and the T1.
   
  The Aune T1 does not support 24/192khz. Neither do your ears.  
  The T1's maximum is 24/96khz.


----------



## Deicide3

tried to search the thread but got nothing.
  what is output gain adjust?


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





deicide3 said:


> tried to search the thread but got nothing.
> what is output gain adjust?


 
  As in what does changing the output gain do?
   
  It changes the gain from +0db, +10db and +16db.
   
  Gain in this case is an increase in voltage to the headphone jack. This is a greater amplification of the outgoing audio and is useful if you have high impedance headphones.
  I have 64ohm headphones which need amplification but not much. Using +0db with them was fine but I found that things sounded tighter when I increased gain to +10db. You'll also find that increasing gain means you don't have to turn the volume on the T1 nearly as far as you have been because the overall signal is "louder".


----------



## teb1013

inphu510n said:


> You must use the USB input on the T1 in order to use the tube DAC built into it. It has to be connected to a computer (or some Android devices).




Not exactly. The Aune dac also works fine with an iPad through the CCK (camera connection kit) to a USB. For some reason I don't understand you have to put a powered hub between the Aune and the iPad (or iOS will give a low power error message even though the Aune DAC doesn't draw power from the USB connection). Otherwise it works great I do most of my listening this way.


----------



## AS777

Quote: 





gorantosic said:


> I just bought the aune t1 and I am using some skull candy earbuds to test it out and it sounds very high-pitched and distorted so much to the point where I can't listen anymore. I do have some akg k272hd headphones but they are being repaired at the moment and I can't listen with them. They are my primary listening tool. So my question is, Does the aune t1 sound so poorly because im not using my akg's or is it because of something else?


 
   
  I have found very poor sound quality when using the supplied 6.5mm adapter.


----------



## Deicide3

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> As in what does changing the output gain do?
> 
> It changes the gain from +0db, +10db and +16db.
> 
> ...


 
  dose its changes the sound signature?


----------



## inphu510n

deicide3 said:


> dose its changes the sound signature?




Not really. Not in the way that I think you're asking about. It wouldn't change soundstage or timbre or that sort of thing.
I suppose if your cans aren't being powered sufficiently at +0db then it's possible you'd miss some small details and a good bit of the bass section. Someone correct me please!


----------



## noxa

Just about to order but can't decide between the black or silver, any thoughts?


----------



## CoiL

Matter of taste but some advice - if things around where you put it are light-colored and other equipment is silverish/metallic then take silver version, otherwise would go for black. If you put black aune in top of silverish equipment then imo it doesn`t catch eye so much than silver one in top of black equipment - so, if you can`t decide would still get black one. My personal opinion - silver version looks kind of "cheap".


----------



## noxa

That's the thing all my equipment is black, so it makes sense to go black, but i fancied a change but not if the silver one has a cheap look to it.


----------



## joeq70

inphu510n said:


> Not really. Not in the way that I think you're asking about. It wouldn't change soundstage or timbre or that sort of thing.
> I suppose if your cans aren't being powered sufficiently at +0db then it's possible you'd miss some small details and a good bit of the bass section. Someone correct me please!



It actually does change the sound signature in my experience. On all gain settings my Magnums can be driven to an unlistenable volume. However +10 gain brings out the bass just right for my cans.


----------



## noxa

I'm sure it's been mentioned at some point but what tube would be best for soundstage and bass.


----------



## teb1013

noxa said:


> That's the thing all my equipment is black, so it makes sense to go black, but i fancied a change but not if the silver one has a cheap look to it.




I have the silver and I think it looks fine but it is colored plastic, not metal.


----------



## wgkwgk

Who's the seller?  I'm having difficulties finding a good source.


----------



## teb1013

joeq70 said:


> It actually does change the sound signature in my experience. On all gain settings my Magnums can be driven to an unlistenable volume. However +10 gain brings out the bass just right for my cans.




I use 0 gain but need my source up to full. I have heard that this can result in clipping. Will increasing the gain allow a lower source volume and avoid clipping? How do you feel +10 affects the soundstage?


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





noxa said:


> I'm sure it's been mentioned at some point but what tube would be best for soundstage and bass.


 
  If you mean large soundstage and great punchy bass, then cheap NOS Tungsram PCC88 from eBay.


----------



## wgkwgk

+1
  Ti with Asgard 2


----------



## noxa

coil said:


> If you mean large soundstage and great punchy bass, then cheap NOS Tungsram PCC88 from eBay.




Yeah tbat's exactly what i'm looming for, i'll try and track one down.


----------



## joeq70

teb1013 said:


> I use 0 gain but need my source up to full. I have heard that this can result in clipping. Will increasing the gain allow a lower source volume and avoid clipping? How do you feel +10 affects the soundstage?



You should always leave source volume on full and use the amp's volume control


----------



## CoiL

One Miniwatt-Dario PCC88 available - CHEAP! Get it while you can, it`s rare (probably french factory made): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCC88-MINIWATT-ELECTRONIC-VALVE-/251289416486?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubes&hash=item3a82043326#shId
  For me it`s ridiculous posting cost 14£ from UK, don`t know why, otherwise would get it myself. Should be very good tube if I consider Miniwatt-Dario PCC189´s & ECC189 that I own.
   
  e: found 2x ECC189 also: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECC189-6ES8-MINIWATT-DARIO-HEERLEN-MATCHED-PAIR-/140981075684?pt=FR_JG_Collections_Radios&hash=item20d3207ee4
   
  e2: also one good Siemens PCC189 offer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Siemens-PCC189-Rohre-Tube-Neu-New-OVP-/141031418123?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&hash=item20d620a90b


----------



## caracara08

Anyone with a bit more experience using this strictly as a dac and how it compares to others?


----------



## wgkwgk

+1, especially compared the the ALO Pan am?


----------



## inphu510n

wgkwgk said:


> +1, especially compared the the ALO Pan am?




Ahhhh, the Pan Am costs over three times more than the T1. I don't understand.

One is a cheap tube with a solid state amplifier and the other is a tube amplifier with a solid state DAC.
If you've got the money, buy the ALO.
The tubes for the T1 are great for audio but expensive. The tubes for the ALO are cheap, not amazing for audio but there are a ton of choices for rolling.
The T1 is less versatile as well. Having to use it's tube DAC via USB limits input options.


----------



## Yazen

Quote: 





noxa said:


> That's the thing all my equipment is black, so it makes sense to go black, but i fancied a change but not if the silver one has a cheap look to it.


 
  +1 for black.
   
  Silver does not look cheap imo


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> The tubes for the T1 are great for audio but expensive. The tubes for the ALO are cheap, not amazing for audio but there are a ton of choices for rolling.


 
  This part you got wrong imo. I have ~30 different NOS tubes that all were cheap, crazy cheap actually and for T1 tubes there are also very very many choices for rolling (even relatively undiscovered areas like PCC189).
   
  Silver T1 doesn`t look cheap only when paired with silverish gear (macbook pro etc.). But it`s only my opinion and it`s about personal preference.


----------



## harshtimez

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> You must use the USB input on the T1 in order to use the tube DAC built into it. It has to be connected to a computer (or some Android devices).
> I'm unclear about how you would use a USB-S/PDIF converter with your current setup though I'm assuming you'd like to run it between your iMac and the T1.
> 
> The Aune T1 does not support 24/192khz. Neither do your ears.
> The T1's maximum is 24/96khz.


 
   
  Ha. Thanks for not flaming me. I got home and looked and realized...yeah, that was a dumb idea.
   
  Now I'll follow along and see if anyone goes through with some mods on their T1's.


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





coil said:


> This part you got wrong imo. I have ~30 different NOS tubes that all were cheap, crazy cheap actually and for T1 tubes there are also very very many choices for rolling (even relatively undiscovered areas like PCC189).
> 
> Silver T1 doesn`t look cheap only when paired with silverish gear (macbook pro etc.). But it`s only my opinion and it`s about personal preference.


 
   
  Fair enough. In the scheme of things there are very excellent and inexpensive tubes for this amp and they sound great.
  It's relative though. I recently purchased a NOS pair of really great tubes for my Little Dot that cost me $10USD shipped. Typically I spend anywhere from $8-25 on a pair of tubes for that amp. Cheaper than the majority of tubes for the T1.
  I'm not attempting to argue about it. I just have experience with a different amp which can use hundreds (I haven't done the actual math) of different tubes and most are under $25 shipped.
  You're definitely an excellent tube collector and you know how to search for the right things, wait patiently and then pounce on the real deals. I've found some good deals on eBay. For instance, someone didn't know he had a NOS Siemens 6DJ8 on his hands and was selling it for $18 or another seller with a Mullard 6922 for $18.
  Honestly, most of the tubes you recommend are great tubes and compared to the Siemens/TFK E188CC's that everyone is chasing, they're dirt cheap.


----------



## inphu510n

harshtimez said:


> Ha. Thanks for not flaming me. I got home and looked and realized...yeah, that was a dumb idea.
> 
> Now I'll follow along and see if anyone goes through with some mods on their T1's.




After doing some more reading on the topic of rolling opamps I don't think I'll be doing it. 
I recently read an article written by NWAVGuy (the guy who created the O2 amp and the ODAC) on subject and it totally called into question the common practice of changing out opamps.
The guy isn't a god but I really respect some of his work and writing.

The odd thing is that I've built a few of his CMoyBB headphone amps and they use a dip socket so that you can switch opamps. Why would he include that piece if he thought it was pointless? To appease customer demand?

That said, if you want me to throw a dip socket in there for you I can definitely do it for a small fee.
I'm also working on creating an adapter so that we can use the ring style tube protectors instead of the cheap acrylic guards that come with the unit.


----------



## dennis611

teb1013 said:


> I have the silver and I think it looks fine but it is colored plastic, not metal.




+1. Mine is silver too...looks different, cheap its not..kinda like a black car vs silver car..just a matter of preference.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> After doing some more reading on the topic of rolling opamps I don't think I'll be doing it.
> I recently read an article written by NWAVGuy (the guy who created the O2 amp and the ODAC) on subject and it totally called into question the common practice of changing out opamps.
> The guy isn't a god but I really respect some of his work and writing.
> 
> ...


 
  Thanks for useful information! Will ditch idea of changing Aune T1 opamps. Well, it already sounds perfect for my ears anyway (with right tubes) ;P
   
  About cheap tube prices, most of my tubes are around 5-15$ including shipping  
   
  Btw, I decided to sell lot of my tubes (~10-20) but I don`t have motivation & intrest atm for taking pictures and making selling thread.


----------



## Inevitability

Quote: 





coil said:


> One Miniwatt-Dario PCC88 available - CHEAP! Get it while you can, it`s rare (probably french factory made): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCC88-MINIWATT-ELECTRONIC-VALVE-/251289416486?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubes&hash=item3a82043326#shId
> For me it`s ridiculous posting cost 14£ from UK, don`t know why, otherwise would get it myself. Should be very good tube if I consider Miniwatt-Dario PCC189´s & ECC189 that I own.
> 
> e: found 2x ECC189 also: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECC189-6ES8-MINIWATT-DARIO-HEERLEN-MATCHED-PAIR-/140981075684?pt=FR_JG_Collections_Radios&hash=item20d3207ee4
> ...


 
  Thank You CoiL, I've just bought a Siemens PCC189 and maybe i'll get other tubes too; so if you are going to sell some of your tubes let us know 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 i could be interested


----------



## CoiL

No need to thank. Give us your own opinion about that tube when you have burned it in and done some comparing.


----------



## robrob

Still loving the T1 after a couple of months of ear time. If you're reading this thread and still on the fence about getting a T1 do yourself a favor and get one ASAP. The T1 was my first headphone amp and before it I thought my AKG K240 Studios sounded flat and pale. They simply needed a proper amp. I'm also driving a pair of modified Fostex T50RPs with the T1 and they sound amazing. The sound provided by the T1 has rekindled my love of music and even introduced me to genres I never really cared for like classical. Orchestral music sounds so much better with a properly amplified set of headphones I find myself listening to classics and understanding why they're classics. The T1 was the best audio purchase of my 55 year life.


----------



## wgkwgk

Selling tubes?  LMK which: I'm interested.


----------



## CoiL

Spoiler: Offtopic%20spoiler!%20



 
  Tesla PCC88 32 yellow markings, Tesla PCC88 32 & 37 white markings, 6N23P reflector, Brimar ECC88, Valvo PCC88, 2x Brimar PCC189, Mullard PCC189, Mazda Belvu PCC189 - these are probably all to go because I just don`t use them.
  Also thinking about selling 2x Lorenz PCC189, Sovtek 6922 98, Tungsram PCC88, Mazda PCC189, Philips PCC189, Mullard ECC88, Amperex GAE PQ shield logo ....but I`m not sure I`m willing to let go of those, they are too good for the price I got them -.-


----------



## teb1013

robrob said:


> Still loving the T1 after a couple of months of ear time. If you're reading this thread and still on the fence about getting a T1 do yourself a favor and get one ASAP. The T1 was my first headphone amp and before it I thought my AKG K240 Studios sounded flat and pale. They simply needed a proper amp. I'm also driving a pair of modified Fostex T50RPs with the T1 and they sound amazing. The sound provided by the T1 has rekindled my love of music and even introduced me to genres I never really cared for like classical. Orchestral music sounds so much better with a properly amplified set of headphones I find myself listening to classics and understanding why they're classics. The T1 was the best audio purchase of my 55 year life.




+1 (61 in my case)!


----------



## Yazen

Anyone know of a less painful way for cleaning oxidized pins?


----------



## CoiL

baking soda + vinegar! Works like a charm! Nice clean pins without any physical pin material loss or changing the shape of pin (sanding etc.). I use this method for all my tubes but be warned, if this stuff gets on prints on tube - they will probably come off. Not all tubes markings come off and etched factory codes seem to be unaffected mostly. You have to find proper low-shape thing where to put this soda + vinegar so it won`t get on tube markings. Let it soak about ~20min at least. Clean with water/alcohol.


----------



## inphu510n

Hah!
  I just pulled my T1 apart and indeed found a TI N5532A opamp. However, this is not a dip8 socket style opamp. It's a surface mount and putting a dip socket where the opamp is would be prohibitively annoying. I'm sure someone sells an adapter to go from surface mount to socket mount but hah, there's not much point any way!!!


----------



## dennis611

Goo





inphu510n said:


> Hah!
> I just pulled my T1 apart and indeed found a TI N5532A opamp. However, this is not a dip8 socket style opamp. It's a surface mount and putting a dip socket where the opamp is would be prohibitively annoying. I'm sure someone sells an adapter to go from surface mount to socket mount but hah, there's not much point any way!!!




Good to know that. Guess its tube swappings all the way...


----------



## Kaaf

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> Hah!
> I just pulled my T1 apart and indeed found a TI N5532A opamp. However, this is not a dip8 socket style opamp. It's a surface mount and putting a dip socket where the opamp is would be prohibitively annoying. I'm sure someone sells an adapter to go from surface mount to socket mount but hah, there's not much point any way!!!


 
http://cimarrontechnology.com/
  Maybe this will help. But then you you cant close te Aune again.....


----------



## Kaaf

For people looking for a big collection of not very rare straight forward tubes (like PCC88 e88CC..etc...) take a look at this site:
http://www.electrontubes.nl.
   
  For The Netherlands pretty cheap shipping costs, I don't know what his foreign rates are. Good luck


----------



## CoiL

Not much choices there unfortunately. http://electols.com/ is better place with much more choices but bad thing again is that you have to oder at least for 50€ if I remember correctly.


----------



## Yazen

Quote: 





coil said:


> baking soda + vinegar! Works like a charm! Nice clean pins without any physical pin material loss or changing the shape of pin (sanding etc.). I use this method for all my tubes but be warned, if this stuff gets on prints on tube - they will probably come off. Not all tubes markings come off and etched factory codes seem to be unaffected mostly. You have to find proper low-shape thing where to put this soda + vinegar so it won`t get on tube markings. Let it soak about ~20min at least. Clean with water/alcohol.


 
  Hah, thanks.
   
  I have a few new tubes that needed a good polishing, but I'll try your method first.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  Wouldn't regular tape work good around the labels, or would it strip them?


----------



## MrEleventy

Slightly off-topic update. Got a new toy, Beyers T90 sound great with the T1 as a dac.  Back to just slumping...


----------



## noxa

Has this got enough power to make the Mad Dogs really sing?


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





yazen said:


> Hah, thanks.
> 
> I have a few new tubes that needed a good polishing, but I'll try your method first.
> 
> ...


 
  Tape would be a very bad idea.
  Handle the areas of the tube with the labels as little as possible. Your fingers will rub them off relatively easily.


----------



## noxa

Finally pulled the trigger on this, should be here on Wednesday. Happy days.


----------



## robrob

Just wanted to let everyone know the T1 works great with the raspberry pi. My pi is running raspyfi.
   
  raspberry pi running mpd ---> T1 pre-out ---> Yaqin tube amp
   
  I'm controlling the raspberry using remote control through the Gnome Music Player Client (GMPC) running on my Android phone and natively on a Windows 7 computer. The raspberry pulls flac files off my network attached storage unit via wireless. Having the raspberry feed the T1 frees up a laptop I was using as a music server.
   
  Edit: I have found that when I turn the T1 off and then later turn it back on the raspberry pi stutters during playback. I have to reboot the raspberry to get it to play normally. I guess the solution is to shut them both down and then bring them both back up to play music.


----------



## startyourengine

i just received my genalex today, did some brief comparison between that and the amperex, so far with just 20 mins' listening, the difference i could tell was the soundstage advantage genalex has, and also listening to female voices, amperex still has the sweetness i prefer. i don't know how i feel about this, i suppose it really depends on what type of music you will be listening to. with studio recorded female, pop or rock, music with the amperex are more "together" but not bunch up, due to the relatively natural soundstage. with genalex however, i felt like the voice and the rest of the music are slightly stretched, the soundstage are wider, there is some space between, sometimes i want to say it makes the music airy, but it feels manufactured. with live performance, because i know they are performed on a bigger stage with audiences, i kind of expected the soundstage to be there more. so far, i think if you just want to listen to music all day long, not looking for the soundstage and clarity, i would choose the amperex, but for critical listening maybe with classical, symphoney and stuff, the genalex might be better. just my 2 cents, sometime i don't even know whether i'm making stuff up or not lol. do these thing have a burn-in period? can i expect a difference from the genalex with 2 more weeks of usage? thanks.
   
  edit: like electro/techno with the genalex, its very awesome lol.
   
  edit: the amp + genalex/amperex combo on aune t1 really brings the mid on dt880 250ohm forward comparing beyer's a1 if you know how the slightly recessed mid on dt880 sounds, much better vocal. the a1 however helps with hd598's bass.


----------



## joeq70

startyourengine said:


> i just received my genalex today, did some brief comparison between that and the amperex, so far with just 20 mins' listening, the difference i could tell was the soundstage advantage genalex has, and also listening to female voices, amperex still has the sweetness i prefer. i don't know how i feel about this, i suppose it really depends on what type of music you will be listening to. with studio recorded female, pop or rock, music with the amperex are more "together" but not bunch up, due to the relatively natural soundstage. with genalex however, i felt like the voice and the rest of the music are slightly stretched, the soundstage are wider, there is some space between, sometimes i want to say it makes the music airy, but it feels manufactured. with live performance, because i know they are performed on a bigger stage with audiences, i kind of expected the soundstage to be there more. so far, i think if you just want to listen to music all day long, not looking for the soundstage and clarity, i would choose the amperex, but for critical listening maybe with classical, symphoney and stuff, the genalex might be better. just my 2 cents, sometime i don't even know whether i'm making stuff up or not lol. do these thing have a burn-in period? can i expect a difference from the genalex with 2 more weeks of usage? thanks.
> 
> edit: like electro/techno with the genalex, its very awesome lol.
> 
> edit: the amp + genalex/amperex combo on aune t1 really brings the mid on dt880 250ohm forward comparing beyer's a1 if you know how the slightly recessed mid on dt880 sounds, much better vocal. the a1 however helps with hd598's bass.



Nice impressions! You are using +16 gain right?


----------



## CoiL

startyourengine, I belive your description and impressions are correct. Genalex should be with larger soundstage than amperex and for me it`s same impressions about 6922EH/Tungsram PCC88 vs. Amperex OG. Amperex just sounds natural with "middle-sized sweetspot" soundstage.  
  With 6922EH/Tungsram you just can`t listen prog rock properly because everything feels "stretched" like you said but with electronic music it all makes sense and adds a lot.


----------



## startyourengine

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Nice impressions! You are using +16 gain right?


 
  thanks! i've been reading other people's stuff here alot, thought i should make some contribution. i'm using +10, maybe i should try +16
  Quote: 





coil said:


> startyourengine, I belive your description and impressions are correct. Genalex should be with larger soundstage than amperex and for me it`s same impressions about 6922EH/Tungsram PCC88 vs. Amperex OG. Amperex just sounds natural with "middle-sized sweetspot" soundstage.
> With 6922EH/Tungsram you just can`t listen prog rock properly because everything feels "stretched" like you said but with electronic music it all makes sense and adds a lot.


 
  i'm glad i wasn't totally making stuff up. still torn between the two, i don't want to switch them in and out daily when i get home from work just to listen to different genre of music, i think right now i'm leaving the genalex in for the time being.


----------



## joeq70

startyourengine said:


> thanks! i've been reading other people's stuff here alot, thought i should make some contribution. i'm using +10, maybe i should try +16



It might not hurt. High impedance phones like Beyers sound better with +16 in my experience. If you try it out, please report your findings!


----------



## robrob

My T1 with raspberry pi server (tiny brown box on right). The tube amp is connected to the T1's pre-out.


----------



## noxa

What gain setting is optimal for the Mad Dogs?


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





robrob said:


> My T1 with raspberry pi server (tiny brown box on right). The tube amp is connected to the T1's pre-out.


 
  That's purty right there!!
  Caused me to go look up the Pi and all it's recent developments. Thanks!


----------



## jipan

This is what in my mind as well: NAS - Raspberry Pi - T1 - Senn HD600 / Goldring DR150.
  Still need to buy 1 more harddrive for my cheap NAS (RAID 1) and UPS too. Then Raspberry, and I'm done.
  Quote: 





robrob said:


> My T1 with raspberry pi server (tiny brown box on right). The tube amp is connected to the T1's pre-out.


----------



## Kaaf

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> That's purty right there!!
> Caused me to go look up the Pi and all it's recent developments. Thanks!


 
  Personally I prefer a Mele a2000 with ubuntu and mpd. Because of the better USB connection (and all other connections)
  My Aune T1 is connected with usb to a Mele a2000 with a custom power supply to the mele a2000G/or just a rechargeble 5VDC battery (even better)
  It even has a wireless connection so I can plug in my aune anywhere in the house 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




   
  It's a bit more expensive than a raspberry pi, but you don't have to build/buy a housing and all connections ar in the back. Somebody has done alle the hard work see: http://guillaumeplayground.net/
  I am very happy with it


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





startyourengine said:


> thanks! i've been reading other people's stuff here alot, thought i should make some contribution. i'm using +10, maybe i should try +16
> i'm glad i wasn't totally making stuff up. still torn between the two, i don't want to switch them in and out daily when i get home from work just to listen to different genre of music, i think right now i'm leaving the genalex in for the time being.


 
  I`m changing my tubes all the time when changing genres. Don`t care about socket wear, It`s replaceable.


----------



## MrEleventy

It's replaceable yeah but unless you're handy with a soldering iron it's probably less of a hassle to just pick up a socket saver. But only if you do tons of swapping, like CoiL does.  I'm veeeery close to just giving in and purchasing a Amperex 7308. Curious to see how it'll sound with the T90.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





inevitability said:


> Hi there!  This is my first post here at Head-fi and i'm glad to be part of this forum that i've been following for years.
> I've just bought an Aune T1 with EH 6922 Tube (this is my first DAC+Amp) and, although i have to say it sounds really really good, more than i was expecting, i noticed a channel imbalance. The left channel is louder than the right one; so i decided to test it with RMAA 6.2.5 and it confirmed my impression. But that's not all. The results of the test were very disappointing. The PC sound card in comparison is considerably better, although it sounds worse, Are those tests reliable?
> Should I send it back for the channel imbalance?
> 
> ...


 
  Hey! Just want to ask how you're doing with the channel imbalance?
  My friend who bought the unit from me returned it saying it has some problems with the DAC, but not the channel imbalance (I made it clear to him), but I'm using it now it's running fine. Guess I have to repair it anyways.


----------



## diasam

Could anyone provide some comparative insight between the Aune X1 Mk1, Aune X1 Mk2 and Aune T1 in regards to taste and sound signature,
   
  I have a pair of HD650's and am looking for a DAC/AMP around the $200 mark,
   
  I listen to a lot of rock, soft rock and some house,
   
  Regards


----------



## joeq70

diasam said:


> Could anyone provide some comparative insight between the Aune X1 Mk1, Aune X1 Mk2 and Aune T1 in regards to taste and sound signature,
> 
> I have a pair of HD650's and am looking for a DAC/AMP around the $200 mark,
> 
> ...



Probably not as the X1 is way less popular I believe because it doesn't have a standout feature like the T1. The T1 is way different because it uses tube, therefore the sound signature changes to suit the user's preference by changing to different tubes.


----------



## Brendo09

Quote: 





diasam said:


> Could anyone provide some comparative insight between the Aune X1 Mk1, Aune X1 Mk2 and Aune T1 in regards to taste and sound signature,
> 
> I have a pair of HD650's and am looking for a DAC/AMP around the $200 mark,
> 
> ...


 
   
  I've got the T1 and the X1mk2.
   
  to be honest, I've not really compared them at the same time. 
   
  The x1 is versatile in that it has a coaxial, an optical, and RCA and a usb input. It works better for standard DAC style scenarios (TV into the home system etc). It's fairly clear, straightforward kind of solid state DAC. I certainly didn't have any complaints with it.
   
  the T1's schtick is the tube rolling. It's limited as it's only USB for the tube, or RCA (non tube) in. 
   
  So ideally it comes down to your inputs. I've got my T1 at work for purely Foobar work, and the X1 at home to collate the TV coaxial output and my Compaq usb into the home stereo. 
   
  I like them both. 
   
  that's not much help though is it.


----------



## stjj89

Does anyone have a recommendation for a bassy tube? I've got a Amperex 7308 in my Aune T1 now and they sound awesome on my HE-400, but I'm looking for even more (and deeper) bass extension and impact with these cans for genres like EDM. I've also got an EH6922 but the bass on that doesn't even extend as deep as the Amperex. From reading this thread, it seems the Genalex Gold Lion and Vokshod 6N23P Rocket Logo are good bets. Anyone have any opinions on this, or other recommendations?


----------



## joeq70

stjj89 said:


> Does anyone have a recommendation for a bassy tube? I've got a Amperex 7308 in my Aune T1 now and they sound awesome on my HE-400, but I'm looking for even more (and deeper) bass extension and impact with these cans for genres like EDM. I've also got an EH6922 but the bass on that doesn't even extend as deep as the Amperex. From reading this thread, it seems the Genalex Gold Lion and Vokshod 6N23P Rocket Logo are good bets. Anyone have any opinions on this, or other recommendations?



Rocket logo is not the best for bass extension, the Russian 6n23p-eb is. Easily. PM me if you want to try it.


----------



## Inevitability

Quote: 





penmarker said:


> Hey! Just want to ask how you're doing with the channel imbalance?
> My friend who bought the unit from me returned it saying it has some problems with the DAC, but not the channel imbalance (I made it clear to him), but I'm using it now it's running fine. Guess I have to repair it anyways.


 
  Actually i'm just listening to it as is. The channel imbalance is noticeable only at low volumes; in that case (rare case, because i usually listen to music at medium, sometimes high, volumes) i go to  control panel -> hardware and sounds -> Audio, then click on the Aune T1 and press the properties button; there i lower the left channel volume to match the right one (on windows, in linux distributions it is even easier).
  I thought about replacing it but it would have cost over 40 € so i preferred to buy some new tubes.


----------



## teb1013

I have been running my T1 with Sennheiser HD 558s at 0 gain since I got it. Sounds great, but I had to turn up to over 50% to get adequate volume with many music sources. Following through on some entries on this thread, I have recently changed to +10. I was surprised to find that, as well as having to use much less volume, the music sounds more immersive, with a larger soundstage and more punch in the bass. +10 is as far as I can push this with the 558s, but I think that I will use this setting from now on, with possible checks at 0 to compare. The Amperex 7308 is still my go to tube, for just about everything.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





inevitability said:


> Actually i'm just listening to it as is. The channel imbalance is noticeable only at low volumes; in that case (rare case, because i usually listen to music at medium, sometimes high, volumes) i go to  control panel -> hardware and sounds -> Audio, then click on the Aune T1 and press the properties button; there i lower the left channel volume to match the right one (on windows, in linux distributions it is even easier).
> I thought about replacing it but it would have cost over 40 € so i preferred to buy some new tubes.


 
  You did the exact same thing I did. Haha.


----------



## CoiL

I`m wondering what`s causing this imbalance? Maybe it`s "typical" design flaw or something easy that someone could sort out and those who have problems could fix it?
  Just being clear - I don`t have this problem with my unit.


----------



## MrEleventy

It's most likely the volume pot (the knob). All analog pots suffer from channel imbalance at low levels and depending on the quality of the pot, the degree of it varies. All the dacs/amps that I've owned that had a analog volume knob suffers from it at low levels. It's a common occurance.


----------



## penmarker

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> It's most likely the volume pot (the knob). All analog pots suffer from channel imbalance at low levels and depending on the quality of the pot, the degree of it varies. All the dacs/amps that I've owned that had a analog volume knob suffers from it at low levels. It's a common occurance.


 
  I understand the imbalance at low levels, this channel imbalance is on all levels. There is something defective in the DAC/tube buffer portion of the unit. I've replaced the tube but no dice.


----------



## Inevitability

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> It's most likely the volume pot (the knob). All analog pots suffer from channel imbalance at low levels and depending on the quality of the pot, the degree of it varies. All the dacs/amps that I've owned that had a analog volume knob suffers from it at low levels. It's a common occurance.


 
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> I`m wondering what`s causing this imbalance? Maybe it`s "typical" design flaw or something easy that someone could sort out and those who have problems could fix it?
> Just being clear - I don`t have this problem with my unit.


 
  I sent an email to Aune and they told me it is normal: it depends on potentiometer.


----------



## MrEleventy

penmarker said:


> I understand the imbalance at low levels, this channel imbalance is on all levels. There is something defective in the DAC/tube buffer portion of the unit. I've replaced the tube but no dice.


 Well then, there's something totally wrong with that then. Mine is slight and only if I use IEMs.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





inevitability said:


> I sent an email to Aune and they told me it is normal: it depends on potentiometer.


 
  Ok, since I`m bored sometimes, maybe going to change that potentiometer with more quality part


----------



## inphu510n

coil said:


> Ok, since I`m bored sometimes, maybe going to change that potentiometer with more quality part


 

Haha! I was totally thinking about doing the same thing!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





teb1013 said:


> I have been running my T1 with Sennheiser HD 558s at 0 gain since I got it. Sounds great, but I had to turn up to over 50% to get adequate volume with many music sources. Following through on some entries on this thread, I have recently changed to +10. I was surprised to find that, as well as having to use much less volume, the music sounds more immersive, with a larger soundstage and more punch in the bass. +10 is as far as I can push this with the 558s, but I think that I will use this setting from now on, with possible checks at 0 to compare. The Amperex 7308 is still my go to tube, for just about everything.


 
   
  Interesting. Maybe I should play more with the gain settings.


----------



## Inevitability

What bores me more is the LED under the tube. At first i liked it but now i find it annoying because it hides the tube own light (that i like more). Sooner or later i will remove it.
   
  Anyway the Siemens PCC189 i bought last sunday has not been shipped yet


----------



## CoiL

Patience with eBay deals. It might just be unmarked as shipped. I had many cases like this but everything was ok 

 About LED, I`m thinking just putting tiny orange see-through plastic piece in the middle of socket so it will give same glow as tube.


----------



## Inevitability

Quote: 





coil said:


> Patience with eBay deals. It might just be unmarked as shipped. I had many cases like this but everything was ok
> 
> About LED, I`m thinking just putting tiny orange see-through plastic piece in the middle of socket so it will give same glow as tube.


 
  NIce idea about the LED. Anyway i contacted the ebay seller and he actually hasn't shipped the tube yet. He said he would have done it today.


----------



## teb1013

inevitability said:


> What bores me more is the LED under the tube. At first i liked it but now i find it annoying because it hides the tube own light (that i like more). Sooner or later i will remove it.
> 
> Anyway the Siemens PCC189 i bought last sunday has not been shipped yet




Agreed. The LED is stupid. It blocks the tube glow completely. I don't like the idea of messing around with the electrics. Let us know how it works out. 
Coil let us know how your suggestion works out as well.


----------



## Illbetheone

Ok, I've had about two weeks of daily use out of my Aune T1 with the stock tube, and figured it was time for my review on this badboy with my WS99.
  
 I've been in the world of Head-Fi for a little over a year, so please forgive me if I don't know all the flowery words used to describe what I am hearing.
  
*Rigs*
  
Prior Setup
 Creative X-Fi --> PA2V2 --> WS99
  
New Setup
 Aune T1 --> WS99.
  
Past Setups
 Creative X-Fi --> Razer Carcharias
 Creative X-Fi --> PA2V2 --> HFI-580
  
  
 The old set up was fair considering I am a big EDM fan and computer gamer. It did everything I needed and it did it with much delight to my ears. I did not have any real complaints on the old setup to warrant a change such as this, however the price I got for my Aune T1 was too good to pass up. If I didn't like it, I figured I could have just sold it on here for minimal loss. Besides, I always wanted to try tubes 
  
  
*Music (EDM - Trance)*
  
 The Creative X-Fi and PA2V2 paired nicely with the WS99 (herein after referred to as the old setup), it handled everything I threw at it with ease. There was, however, noticible humming and hissing on certain tracks at certain volumes, this did not bother me in the least. It also did not kill the sound quality of poorer tracks as my HFI-580 had a habbit of doing. I found that for my type of music, the WS99 and Aune T1 really improved over the old setup. The music was fuller, sharper, crisper, clearer and cleaner. I did not hear any humming or hissing either. I felt that the Aune T1 was reproducing the music better than the Creative X-Fi did. The bass did not overshadow the mids and hearing Emma Hewitt's voice on "Forever is Ours" gave me goosebumps. This proved true from low quality MP3's all the way to FLAC. The Aune T1 enabled me to appreciate my favorite songs all over again. I found myself listening to tracks I havn't in a long time and saying out loud, "Ho-lee -Sh...".
  
 Such tracks include:
  
 Lick The Rainbow - Mord Fustang
 Satellite - Darren Styles
 Zocalo - Armin Van Buuren (feat. Gabriele & Dresden)
 In and Out of Love - Armin Van Buuren (feat. Sharon den Adel)
 Airwave- Rank 1
  
  
 I did not find the highs cumbersome at all for any of my EDM tracks, and although they were more noticeable than the old setup this did not bother me.  There is a noticeable difference going from the old setup to my current and I _really _like it, especially when it comes to Mids - I like them forward and slightly overshadowing everything else hence the WS99.
  
 I use my computer for practically everything, it is my pride and joy and computer gaming plays a major role in my life - gaming at 1440P is sublime. That being said, I replayed two games on their most difficult setting in order to see how the Aune T1 and WS99 stacked up.
  
 Note: Both games were originally played and being compared to my old setup
  
*Games  **(Metro 2034 - Last Light)*
  
 Metro 2034 - Last Light is the sequel to Metro 2033 a horror first person shooter based on the novel _Metro 2033_ by Dmitry Gluhovsky. The game heavily plays upon your fear of the unknown and this is exacerbated by the music and ambient noise you hear as you creep and shoot your way through the Moscow metro. During this second playthrough, it seemed that I was hearing things quicker than I did the first time around on the old setup. Mind you, it has been a while since I first played this game and have played and beat atleast five other games since I decided to play this on the hardest setting. I recall saying to myself often, "I don't remember hearing that before..." This was most evident later in the game when you are making your way through a literal ghost town and you are hearing things that aren't there; growling, footsteps, whispering, children laughing and crying. I had no problem discerning where gunshots were coming from or where talking was coming from in order to position myself behind that person to take them out silently. The Aune T1 did an excellent job over my Creative X-Fi in this aspect (the proverbial go-to gaming soundcard).
  

  
  
*Games (Bioshock Infinite)*
  
_BioShock Infinite_ is the third installment in the _BioShock_ series, and though it is not part of the storyline of previous _BioShock_ games, it does feature similar gameplay concepts and themes. The game has won over 85 awards, and next to _The Last of Us_ is widely touted as the best game in the last few years. It's a first person story based shooter taking place in a fictional skycity where the populous worships the Founding Fathers of the USA as Gods. As stated above, I really felt I was hearing things faster - bullets, footsteps, talking, ect. It is hard to describe, it's not like I'm hearing at 1.5x the speed or something as what can be done on some sources, just faster - I can't really describe it. This is not a drawback in the slightest, and made me really appreciate the crispness and fullness of the music, battles, and voice acting over the old setup. I felt much more drawn into the game this time around - hardest difficulty aside.
  

  
*Conclusion*
  
 The Aune T1 has made me fall in love with everything computer audio related all over again. It gave me a new found appreciation for music and, in my opinion, blew the doors off my old setup. Everything just sounds better, not to mention trying all the different tubes to get a different sound boggles my mind. As a hardcore gamer and Trance Family member I highly endorse the Aune T1 for both and prefer it over the highly touted Creative X-Fi any day.
  
  
  
*UPDATE: 9/30/2013*
  
 I'm still rocking the Aune T1 with my Audio-Technica WS99. Since this initial review I have had the pleasure of adding to my tube collection. Below, please see my write ups regarding my new tubes.
  
*Russian Rocket vs Tungsram PCC88*
  
 Got my Russian Rocket tube in the mail from Upscale Audio. I am really enjoying it, and generally prefer it over the stock tube and Tungsram PCC88.
  
*Music*
  
 The Rocket really has that tube sound everyone keeps talking about while I would say the Tungsram has a more full bodied sound than the Rocket. Each one compliments my EDM songs differently; some sound ok with the Rocket and great with the Tungsram, and vice versa. However, in the end, I still prefer the Rocket (maybe that's because it agrees with my headphones better - Audio-Technica WS99). The Rocket's bass is a bit punchier, with lush mids and an agreeable soundstage. The Tungsram's bass is on par with my cans, has acceptable mids and a wider soundstage. The highs on both sounded the same to me - not overbearing just the way I like them.
  
 Track List:
  
 Calvin Harris - Live from Electric Daisy Carnival (Las Vegas 2013)
 Armin Van Buuren - Live from Ultra Music Festival (Week 1 - Miami 2013)
 Tritonal - Tritonia Radio Episodes 1 & 13 (2013)
 Dash Berlin- Live from ASOT600 (Den Bosch 2013)
  
*Gaming *
  
 I found the Rocket to be my choice for PC gaming as well, since at some points I found hearing people/baddies/ect, difficult with the Tungsram. With the Tungsram they all seemed to blend into one another, which I assume is due to the tube's transparency. Granted, I can still discern what I am hearing - but it was more difficult than the Rocket; thereby impeding my ability to play my best.
  
 Games Played:
  
 Dishonored
 Dishonored - The Knife of Dunwall
 Firefall
  
  
 Obviously, this is my opinion and shouldn't disuade you from not buying one over the other. Try both and see what works best for you.
  
  
*Philips SQ Miniwatt E88CC*
  
 Got my Philips SQ Miniwatt E88CC in last week. This is by far one of my favorite sounding tubes thus far. It compliments all areas of the spectrum perfectly while expanding the soundstage much more over my Russian Rocket logo tube. EDM sounds blissfull with somewhat forward vocals and it rocks my WS99 so hard. I even listened to a bit of rock and classical and liked what I heard as well. I either go for this tube or the Rocket logo tube depending on what mood I am in and if I want more of a "tube sound" or not.
  
 As for PC gaming, I found that this did not impede my ability to hear enviorments within the game at all - unlike my Tungsram tube. If anything, it was able to bring out some of the lesser heard sounds within the game than other tubes. Granted, I was only able to play two three games on it; _Batman: Arkham Asylum, Medal of Honor _and _Payday 2: The Heist,_ but I still stand by my endorsement. If you can pick one up for a good price then I highly encourage you to do so - 9/10.


----------



## teb1013

Good write up Illbetheone. I'm glad you're enjoying it.


----------



## inphu510n

Definitely a nice write up!
  Thanks!


----------



## CoiL

It`s hard to capture on picture with a lousy camera but it really looks great in reality, glows exactly same color as tube. I made that thin plastic ring from usual A4 document covers (red). Tried orange tic-tac plastic also but it gave light-pink result. 
  Now I should make another outer ring from black plastic to cover up socket and it really looks awesome! ;P


----------



## Wyd4

DAMN!
  When I googled this i really hoped that you were going to say that this amp powered the LCD2's.
  I knew it wouldn't power them to their fullest potential, not close, but I was praying for a more positive comment.
  I am in the market for an affordable desktop amp.

 Scott


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





wyd4 said:


> DAMN!
> When I googled this i really hoped that you were going to say that this amp powered the LCD2's.
> I knew it wouldn't power them to their fullest potential, not close, but I was praying for a more positive comment.
> I am in the market for an affordable desktop amp.
> ...


 
  Not that you _need_ a T1, BUT you could use it as a USB Tube DAC and connect a more powerful amp to feed the LCD2's.


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> It`s hard to capture on picture with a lousy camera but it really looks great in reality, glows exactly same color as tube. I made that thin plastic ring from usual A4 document covers (red). Tried orange tic-tac plastic also but it gave light-pink result.
> 
> Now I should make another outer ring from black plastic to cover up socket and it really looks awesome! ;P




This looks great! I don't know how hot the underside of the tube gets. I assume that there is no risk of melting. The color is exactly what I'm looking for.


----------



## CoiL

teb1013 said:


> This looks great! I don't know how hot the underside of the tube gets. I assume that there is no risk of melting. The color is exactly what I'm looking for.


   


  Kept it on whole night, no melting and still looks great! But yeah, you must test your own plastic material that it won`t melt.


----------



## Yazen

Could anyone suggest me a compatible tube suitable for the DT880 Pro?
  
  I'm looking for a forward midrange, and a larger soundstage presentation.  The Amperex 7308 is a little too pricey imo
   
  I saw an ebay listing for $45 but the triode balance was 2%
   
   
  EDIT:
  I've think a sturdy pair of 3D glasses lenses can make a great color filter.  There are also science kits that come with sturdy materials that won't melt under heat.


----------



## CoiL

Amperex OG (GAC, Heerlen), Siemens PCC189 or JAN Sylvania 6922 maybe. Although I don`t really understand what do you mean with foward mids? All those tubes I suggested have very "liquid & dynamic" mids section and it certainly isn`t recessed, Amperex OG (GAC) and Ultron SQ PCC189 have best mids section out of my tubes. Siemens PCC189 is also very good. Sylvania is with largest soundstage out of them and other two have "same" & "middle, sweetspot" sized soundstage.
   
  Another mod I`m probably going to do is wooden (oak or cherry) ring with better scale around vol knob because I tend to listen on certain levels and those dots suck for setting proper volume. Also maybe doing tube guard. But first I have to finish my HD-662F wood cans (elements are only thing left from original HD-662F) ;P


----------



## inphu510n

A wooden tube guard?


----------



## MrEleventy

yazen said:


> Could anyone suggest me a compatible tube suitable for the DT880 Pro?
> 
> 
> I'm looking for a forward midrange, and a larger soundstage presentation.  The Amperex 7308 is a little too pricey imo
> ...


Go for the amperex orange globe like coil suggested. I have a dt880 600ohms and the sound great together.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





inphu510n said:


> A wooden tube guard?


 
  Yes. Why not? Afraid of flames?  Lol, wood is used even on table under really hot pans etc. That tube will never ever get that hot to even "burn" any dark spots to wood. My speciality is design/woodwork


----------



## Inevitability

Quote: 





coil said:


> It`s hard to capture on picture with a lousy camera but it really looks great in reality, glows exactly same color as tube. I made that thin plastic ring from usual A4 document covers (red). Tried orange tic-tac plastic also but it gave light-pink result.
> Now I should make another outer ring from black plastic to cover up socket and it really looks awesome! ;P


 
  Cool effect!  i think i'll do the same 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Great idea CoiL!


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





yazen said:


> Could anyone suggest me a compatible tube suitable for the DT880 Pro?
> 
> I'm looking for a forward midrange, and a larger soundstage presentation.  The Amperex 7308 is a little too pricey imo
> 
> ...


 
  Forward mids=Voskhod or Gold Lion


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





illbetheone said:


> Ok, I've had about two weeks of daily use out of my Aune T1 with the stock tube, and figured it was time for my review on this badboy with my WS99.


 
   
  Is it ok if I add your review to the T1 information post (http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294)?
   
  Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Forward mids=Voskhod or Gold Lion


 
   
  +1. I would also add Siemens 7DJ8.


----------



## CoiL

Here is better pic:


----------



## Illbetheone

salvatore said:


> Is it ok if I add your review to the T1 information post (http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294)?
> 
> 
> +1. I would also add Siemens 7DJ8.





Sure thing! I hope it helps others!


----------



## Yazen

Quote: 





coil said:


> Amperex OG (GAC, Heerlen), Siemens PCC189 or JAN Sylvania 6922 maybe. Although I don`t really understand what do you mean with foward mids? All those tubes I suggested have very "liquid & dynamic" mids section and it certainly isn`t recessed, Amperex OG (GAC) and Ultron SQ PCC189 have best mids section out of my tubes. Siemens PCC189 is also very good. Sylvania is with largest soundstage out of them and other two have "same" & "middle, sweetspot" sized soundstage.
> 
> Another mod I`m probably going to do is wooden (oak or cherry) ring with better scale around vol knob because I tend to listen on certain levels and those dots suck for setting proper volume. Also maybe doing tube guard. But first I have to finish my HD-662F wood cans (elements are only thing left from original HD-662F) ;P


 
  dt880 has recessed mids, and the extra clamping of the pro does not help bring the midrange out lol.
   
  Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Forward mids=Voskhod or Gold Lion


 
  Voshkod rocket logo?
  Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Is it ok if I add your review to the T1 information post (http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294)?
> 
> 
> +1. I would also add Siemens 7DJ8.


 
  Thanks
   
  This looks relatively cheaper:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genalex-Gold-Lion-6922-Gold-Pin-tube-36-40-each-E88CC-/360604521391?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item53f5b453af


----------



## inphu510n

coil said:


> Yes. Why not? Afraid of flames?  Lol, wood is used even on table under really hot pans etc. That tube will never ever get that hot to even "burn" any dark spots to wood. My speciality is design/woodwork




I was just curious. That sounds great!
I just finished a prototype ring guard adapter using acrylic. It looks great with the LED on.
This is a very unprofessional mobile phone pic but you get the idea.


----------



## CoiL

Nice! For me it`s too "futuristic" but it`s great work!


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





yazen said:


> Voshkod rocket logo?


 
   
  Yep rocket logo. I would rank these three tubes in question as follows:
   
  Performance: Siemens > Genalex > Voshkod
  Price: Genalex > Siemens > Voshkod (I paid $10 for a set of two rockets)
  Overall: Siemens > Voshkod > Genalex
   
  Many people seem to really like the gold lion and it's indeed probably the best new production tube. It's nice smooth forward sounding tube, but the $35 + shipping is just too high price for a tube that is essentially a upgraded rocket logo. More refined and extended rocket. I'm willing to sell my mint condition gold lion to anyone interested (living in Europe) just PM me and lets work you a deal you can't pass.
   
  Siemens, in my opinion, is a very nice tube and you can get them relatively cheap from German sellers if lucky. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-Tube-PCC88-SIEMENS-7DJ8-Suit-ECC88-6DJ8-6922-Akin-Cca-7308-E88cc-etc-/321185693288?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4ac828be68


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





illbetheone said:


> Sure thing! I hope it helps others!


 
   
  Done!


----------



## CoiL

I don`t have Voskhod or gold lion but I can also recommend Siemens PCC88/7DJ8. It is warm sounding tube and mids are certainly great but I recommended Siemens PCC189/7ES8 before because it has larger soundstage, more air and clearer more transparent sound.


----------



## Yazen

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Yep rocket logo. I would rank these three tubes in question as follows:
> 
> Performance: Siemens > Genalex > Voshkod
> Price: Genalex > Siemens > Voshkod (I paid $10 for a set of two rockets)
> ...


 
  I'll try to get the Siemens, though most listings I've seen cost more than what I spent on the Aune lol.  Thanks
   
  I've read that the Musiland 02 uses the same DAC as the Aune T1, though I've noticed the signature is quite different.  I might have to keep the Musiland if my replacement Aune sounds cold and bright.  In this case I would not even need to buy more tubes haha


----------



## CoiL

Quote:  





> ...though I've noticed the signature is quite different.


 
  Of course - they may have same DAC chip but tube is the point of Aune T1 
   
  Siemens PCC88/7DJ8 should definitely save you from "cold & bright". You just have to keep eye regularly on eBay offers. I got my Siemens PCC88 dirt cheap


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





yazen said:


> I'll try to get the Siemens, though most listings I've seen cost more than what I spent on the Aune lol.  Thanks


 
   
  Yeah there are some ridiculous asking prices out there. Just keep your cool and wait for the fairly priced one. If the prices are constantly very high then go for either voshkod or genalex. Genalex is ultimately better but also more expensive (better for general use also). If you are interested of the voshkod try to get one with rocket logo only. There are all kinds of reflector and cccp labels, but I can only vouch for the one with rocket logo only (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-6N23P-E88CC-6DJ8-6922-DUAL-TRIODE-LOT-OF-2-NEW-TUBES-NOS-/390531162860?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Tubes&hash=item5aed78a2ec).
   
  And try to keep those wise man Coil's words in mind and don't forget to include that Siemens 7ES8 to your searches. This being said I'm curious about the wider soundstage thing though. For me one of the main reasons I like the Siemens 7DJ8 is that it has this focused soundstage and awesome mids. It creates engaging and intimate feel which goes especially well with vocal centered minimalistic songs.
   
  Happy hunting!


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> For me one of the main reasons I like the Siemens 7DJ8 is that it has this focused soundstage and awesome mids. It creates engaging and intimate feel which goes especially well with vocal centered minimalistic songs.


 
  Couldn`t said it better! Spot-on description. But I want to point out that this "focused" doesn`t mean small or narrow, quite hard to explain for me.


----------



## yellowcun

I'm from China and Aune is a great HIFI company which can be dealed with.


----------



## Yazen

Quote: 





yellowcun said:


> I'm from China and Aune is a great HIFI company which can be dealed with.


 
  Its cool how you have your cans shopped onto a stock picture.  I think you might be a rascal in disguise..


----------



## yellowcun

Well, there is a thing call "photoshop"  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 .  I have no relationship with Aune and I don't personally own Aune's product but my friends who do all give me a good feedback.
   
  FYI, I own a Musiland 03 Dargon ver.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Couldn`t said it better! Spot-on description. But I want to point out that this "focused" doesn`t mean small or narrow, quite hard to explain for me.


 
   
  Yes that's true. Different tubes with similar sound stage can sound very different depending on the focus. Sometimes the mids are spread out and you get this concert hall kind of feeling. With Siemens the vocals are focused in the middle right in front of your face. This creates the intimate feeling. Like the artist is performing in front of you, to you and only for you. It's more than just being forward. Hard to explain indeed.
   
  Rocket logo is also focused but it's also quite narrow and lacks resolution. This is especially noticeable with audiophile grade headphones. Bass is abundant but not very refined as compared to better tubes. Gold lion has similar signature, but it's more extended and detailed. I'd say gold lion is a great overall tube for many genres and a recommended purchase if you can get it for the right price. Upgrade from stock tube that's for sure. This being said I like Ultron and orange print better (lower cost also). Gold lion is not worth 3+ times the cost of a rocket logo IMO. And trust me, when people start selling those used gold lions their market value will plummet. For some people the cool logo and gold pins are, however, worth the premium. Old NOS tubes should only go up in price (you can buy used NOS, experiment and sell for profit if you have the time and patience). Just to remind you all, gold lion is a new production tube, which means there will be new batches coming from time to time. Older NOS tubes are vanishing goods.
   
  I'd like to add that the differences between my tubes are minor at best. Often it's not about what tube is ultimately the best (even though I haven't heard better than the 7308 amperex), but rather where you want to tweak the sound. All tubes have this Aune T1 sound signature, but they have differences in sound stage, transparency, resolution, positioning etc. It's about finding the right tube to complement your headphones and music styles. I, for example, found my K702 to have harsh and fatiguing mids when listening rock. Ultron smoothened the mids and I didn't experience fatigue so easily. Amperex 7308 and Telefunken 7DJ8 are great for jazz because they are so transparent and there is lots of air between the instruments (=great instrumental separation).


----------



## Illbetheone

Just got my PCC88 Tungsram tube in and I don't really hear any difference. There is a pinch more bass, but that's all I can detect. I was expecting to hear some major differences.
  
 Maybe after some burn in? 


As a note side, anyone know where I can get my hands on Russian 6n23p rocket logos? I'm not sure who has legit ones on eBay.

*EDIT* Is this the right one? Is it legit? 

http://www.cryoset.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=243&osCsid=e4m0cjj2bnkg77k74htqu0s6g7

or this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TESTED-6N23P-TUBE-70s-STRONG-6DJ8-6922-E88CC-/250976755825?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3a6f616071


----------



## joeq70

illbetheone said:


> Just got my PCC88 Tungsram tube in and I don't really hear any difference. There is a pinch more bass, but that's all I can detect. I was expecting to hear some major differences.
> 
> Maybe after some burn in?
> 
> ...



Neither is correct actually. I'm not sure where they are in stock now. I'll find a pic for you though when I'm home.


----------



## joeq70

Try this:
http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/6H23-%7B47%7D-6922-Rocket-Logo.html


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





illbetheone said:


> As a note side, anyone know where I can get my hands on Russian 6n23p rocket logos? I'm not sure who has legit ones on eBay.


 
   
  Dude I just posted a link only 6 posts ago... 
   
  E: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-6N23P-E88CC-6DJ8-6922-DUAL-TRIODE-LOT-OF-2-NEW-TUBES-NOS-/390531162860?pt=US_Radio_Comm_Tubes&hash=item5aed78a2ec


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





illbetheone said:


> Just got my PCC88 Tungsram tube in and I don't really hear any difference. There is a pinch more bass, but that's all I can detect. I was expecting to hear some major differences.
> 
> Maybe after some burn in?


 
  The thing is, no tube will give you major difference in the area of bass where it`s already "pushed to limits". Also it`s about personal hearing differences. I can clearly make & notice difference in bass tightness & kick compared to 6922EH. Maybe you were expecting too much. Like it`s been told in here many times - we use exaggerated words to bring out differences. It doesn`t mean there are big leaps in bass quantity etc.
  If Tungsram PCC88 didn`t work for your bass need then no other tube will.
  Get more bassy cans is all I can recommend now.


----------



## dennis611

Running 24bit on the T1 , I don't need to crank up the volume above half which I usually do with 16bit (CD ripped). I do feel a bit fatigue after long listening sessions..wonder if its just me..


----------



## firefly89

ok, so I have a lot of audio equipment on test right now
   
  the aune t1 was purchased to hopefully be the one that stays
   
   
  inital impressions are that the silver is very beautiful
   
  sound- I think the DAC part is incredible, as much detail as the audioengine d1 but far more musical, I like it a lot
   
  the amp section is lacking though, it's thin, weak and just doesn't give bass in the k701's
   
   
  going line out from the aune t1, to the fiio e12 with bass boost is so much better
  the music I like is quite bass heavy though
   
  it sounds great, I think it has great synergy with the k701 (admittedly I don't know what i'm talking about though)
   
   
  couple of things I noticed:
   
  1) the volume knob doesn't do anything in line out, this is actually quite annoying as the audioengine d1 did attenuate the signal over line output, meaning I have to change volume on the fiio e12
  2) the blue led is a bit annoying, I have heard of people changing it to orange, which would be nicer- I want the tubes looking like this http://www.head-fi.org/t/290757/night-time-shots-of-our-tubes-glowing-post-them-here/90
  3) it really sounds only about 5% (if that) better than just going straight from the super cheap asus u3 gaming usb sound card- £130 for a 5% gain seems like the worst return on investment of all time
  4) not sure if it's in my head but listening to this as a DAC sending audio to the e12 constantly makes the hairs on the back of my neck stand up- even if it is in my head, that's £130 well spent
   
  I'd like something that sounded identical, but had spdif input, a working volume know, and maybe 2 line outputs so I could send audio to my e12 and another amp for speakers
   
  I had planned to get the woo wa7, but I can't imagine it sounding better than this, and it still doesn't solve my problems
   
   
   
  just a quick question- should I leave it on, or turn it off? say i'm listening to it and then I go out to the shop for 30 minutes should I turn it off or leave it on, is there a warm up time ?


----------



## laon

Have tried playing with the gain switches?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





firefly89 said:


> the amp section is lacking though, it's thin, weak and just doesn't give bass in the k701's
> 
> going line out from the aune t1, to the fiio e12 with bass boost is so much better
> the music I like is quite bass heavy though


 
   
  K701 are definitely not the cans for bass heavy music, lol. Of course it sounds thin if you're used to EQ the bass. I would rather get another pair of headphones than EQing things too much. First get used to the K701-E12 combo without bass boost and then move to the T1 and do the critical comparison.


----------



## audiofrog

Has anyone paired the Aune T1 with speakers?  Curious to hear what people think about how it sounds with say the Adam Audio F5.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





audiofrog said:


> Has anyone paired the Aune T1 with speakers?  Curious to hear what people think about how it sounds with say the Adam Audio F5.


 
  I use mine with speakers (see sig for setup) and it sounds great. I am pretty unknowledgeable about speakers, though, so I can't say if the T1 is better than X, Y, or Z. I can tell you that tube-swapping definitely makes a difference to how the speakers sound and that the best tube for headphones is not necessarily the best tube for speakers.


----------



## Illbetheone

I have mine paired with a Logitech 2.1 system. I think it sounds better than my old Creative X-fi to PA2V2 setup.


----------



## joeq70

Quote: 





firefly89 said:


> ok, so I have a lot of audio equipment on test right now
> 
> the aune t1 was purchased to hopefully be the one that stays
> 
> ...


 
  Your assessment that the T1 DAC is more impressive than the T1 amp is correct. The DAC is awesome, the amp is usually adequate, but not necessarily ideal (works great for my purposes though). People drop the money on the T1 because of the great DAC and tube swapping ability. Before you dismiss the amp, however, make sure you use max gain (turn the switches under the unit to ON) since you are trying to power AKGs. The volume knob on the T1 exclusively controls the headphone amp portion of the unit. If you use an external amp like the e12, then the e12 knob will control the volume. I'm not aware of another piece of equipment that sounds like the T1 but has the other features you seek, but maybe somebody here has some input there. I like the blue light so I have no experience changing it, but maybe somebody who has done it can make a walkthrough?


----------



## MrEleventy

firefly89 said:


> the amp section is lacking though, it's thin, weak and just doesn't give bass in the k701's
> 
> going line out from the aune t1, to the fiio e12 with bass boost is so much better
> the music I like is quite bass heavy though




What Sal said. AKG x70x series aren't known for their bass. 

E: Try getting the AKG 702 Anniversary Pads. They supposedly seal better for better bass response. That might help a bit.



firefly89 said:


> I'd like something that sounded identical, but had spdif input, a working volume know, and maybe 2 line outputs so I could send audio to my e12 and another amp for speakers




Try looking up the Maverick Tubemagic D1 or D1 Plus. It covers most of what you want except for the 2 lineouts. It has 2 lineouts but they're different. One is SS and the other is Tubed buffer. It's also similarly priced at $200.



firefly89 said:


> just a quick question- should I leave it on, or turn it off? say i'm listening to it and then I go out to the shop for 30 minutes should I turn it off or leave it on, is there a warm up time ?



If it's a short duration, leave it on.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





firefly89 said:


> ok, so I have a lot of audio equipment on test right now
> 
> the aune t1 was purchased to hopefully be the one that stays
> 
> ...


 
  1) Volume knob on Aune T1 IS working very well, it`s smooth and with wide range. Remind yourself this is low priced bang-for-buck product that already does more than it`s meant imho. If you definitely wanted that knob control you should have read more carefully about that piece when you bought it. I also would like to have that option to control line-out but then again - is it really needed? Separate amp should control speakers and that`s the only right way to do it imo.
   
  2) Blue LED? I think it`s more blueish-white and you can easily turn it into nice glowing color in ~5sec if you have right material and you are good with scissors  ...like I posted few pages ago:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2700#post_9717729

 3) Only 5% performance gain from super-cheap card? Lol! Sorry but I think it`s your ears. Not trying to attack your opinion or something but I can hear a big difference even between hyper-super-cheap ELE EL-D02 DAC (which is really good for its money) and Aune T1. Have you set up your USB output correctly for Aune T1 using WASAPI, ASIO or KSP? For me it made big difference avoiding OS based internal sound mixer. Are you even using USB input? or line-in RCA-in? Tube buffer only works if you are using USB input and it`s the main point of T1 and gives it`s sound character. 6922EH can get fatiguing with some music but seeing you are probably bass-head it really shouldn`t lack of bass (only bass tightness & kick). I think it all comes from you eq`ing things with bass boost on E12. And K701 definitely isn`t a can for bass-hungry ppl. Like Salvatore said, first get used with E12 without bass boost and then do critical comparing with Aune T1. 

 Talking about E12, Aune T1 and WA7 in one sentence? You can`t imagine WA7 being better than Aune T1? Have you even heard it? I haven`t but WA7 should be totally different level audio gear that just is not comparable with things like Aune T1. What is the problem that even WA7 wouldn`t solve? I think you are asking wrong questions and are kind of lost in the land of audio gear. You should start trying other cans for your bass need imo.


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> 1) Volume knob on Aune T1 IS working very well, it`s smooth and with wide range. Remind yourself this is low priced bang-for-buck product that already does more than it`s meant imho. If you definitely wanted that knob control you should have read more carefully about that piece when you bought it. I also would like to have that option to control line-out but then again - is it really needed? Separate amp should control speakers and that`s the only right way to do it imo.
> 
> 2) Blue LED? I think it`s more blueish-white and you can easily turn it into nice glowing color in ~5sec if you have right material and you are good with scissors  ...like I posted few pages ago:
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2700#post_9717729
> ...




Whoa! Slow down there CoiL. He merely has questions and comments. No need to jump down his throat, we were all new once right?  He doesn't have a problem with the quality of the vol knob, just wished that it had line level control. The WA7 doesn't either, the lineouts are preamp. And his other issues were options like optical/spdif which neither T1 nor WA7 supported. He does enjoy his T1 and I'm going to venture a guess that the 5% improvement is because he's still on the "stock" tube. He'll come around like we all have. 

He is crazy tho for not thinking the WA7 isn't going to improve on things.


----------



## laon

I know some dac/amp allow for line out volume control but it's far and between, people generally expect LO to be devoid of volume pot, and I agree that he's better off with bassier cans than trying to chase those holy grail dac/amp which could turn K701 into a basshead cans.


----------



## CoiL

Sorry if my comment sounded harsh. I didn`t mean it bad way. I`m just very rational thinking and "straight" saying sometimes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 His use of words made me kind of "defending" Aune T1 honor


----------



## MrEleventy

laon said:


> I know some dac/amp allow for line out volume control but it's far and between, people generally expect LO to be devoid of volume pot, and I agree that he's better off with bassier cans than trying to chase those holy grail dac/amp which could turn K701 into a basshead cans.


I can fix that...


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> What Sal said. AKG x70x series aren't known for their bass.
> 
> E: Try getting the AKG 702 Anniversary Pads. They supposedly seal better for better bass response. That might help a bit.
> Try looking up the Maverick Tubemagic D1 or D1 Plus. It covers most of what you want except for the 2 lineouts. It has 2 lineouts but they're different. One is SS and the other is Tubed buffer. It's also similarly priced at $200.
> If it's a short duration, leave it on.


 
  Your post made me think about buying Maverick A1 to pair with Aune T1 to amplify my external custom wood made 8Ohm shelf-speakers. Has anyone tried A1 with T1?
  I suspect that may be my bang-for-a-buck-dream setup ;P
   
  Edit: Btw, something from my country, Mari Pokinen - Avar: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hthv2oHLpq8 Gives me goosebumps from start to end with Siemens PCC88. Really starting to enjoy vocal-centered live music with this tube ;P


----------



## MrEleventy

No experience myself but I was curious about the D series DACs. The thing that turned me off was that the D1 via USB is broken, no matter what you set it to, it defaults to 16bit 48k. So USB is useless there.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





coil said:


> Sorry if my comment sounded harsh. I didn`t mean it bad way. I`m just very rational thinking and "straight" saying sometimes
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  Yeah I agree that it sounded a bit harsh. Hopefully *firefly* didn't get offended by our words.
   
  Now to go back to that K701 amplification issue I have to agree that I sometimes feel that my K702 anniversaries could benefit from more powerful amplifier. I was heavily considering of getting M-stage to go with the T1, but then someone in this thread tested that combo and said that the M-stage didn't really make much of an improvement. I did experiment with higher gain settings, but I still prefer to use the lowest gain. Like *MrEleventy* said, K70X bass response can be amplified by getting the anniversary pads. They are quite expensive but gives you warmer bassier and more balanced sound while still maintaining those sweet forward clear mids and treble. In case someone is interested here is my pad comparison/review: http://www.head-fi.org/t/626971/akg-k702-65th-anniversary-edition/2670#post_9533670


----------



## harshtimez

[size=11.0pt]Mine is run from my Imac with Audirvana 1.5.6 to my Qinpu A3 and into B&W 686’s. Sounds better than I expected, that is its excellent for an easy to set-up Music Server.[/size]


----------



## 3t3p

Hi all, new here and instead of starting a new thread thought i'd jump in at the deep end of this thread! (of which I've read about a third)
   
  I'm relatively new in the audiophile scene and like bang for the buck (£ in my case) in life!
   
  My current set up is:
   
  Spotify Premium
   
  Fiio E7 (via USB)
   
  HD598s; stock cable
   
  SoundMagic E30's (for use with 3D glasses as despite their low pressure the Senns crush the 3D glasses onto my prescription glasses)
   
  This is giving me good performance and I especially like that I can bass boost with the E7 to bring the HD598s to life in that department. I am by no means a bass-head but they are very shy here IMO.
   
  Always been intrigued by tube technology and stumbled across the reasonably priced T1 on a google search.
   
  I like the fact I will have a volume knob instead of pressing buttons on the Fiio, plus the T1 looks very nice and can plug the 598's without using the adapter which makes the connector so long!
   
  Would I notice a difference over my E7? I know the T1 has greater bit depth and sampling rate capability...but maybe I would be limited by source?
   
  How am I going to boost bass if I got a T1, I think there is an equaliser app for Spotify now?
   
  I am 27 years old and consider myself to have above average hearing compared to my peers.
   
  Many thanks


----------



## Wyd4

mreleventy said:


> I can fix that...


bahaha


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





> Originally Posted by *3t3p* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> 
> I like the fact I will have a volume knob instead of pressing buttons on the Fiio, plus the T1 looks very nice and can plug the 598's without using the adapter which makes the connector so long!
> ...


 
   
  Here are some options:
   
  1. If you need to EQ I wouldn't suggest to get T1. You probably do just fine with your FiiO.
  2. Get T1 + bassier cans such as Fidelio X1.
  3. Use T1 line out to connect it to your E7.
  4. For the ultimate pleasure: T1 + HD650 (or equivalent) + high quality FLACs via player with ASIO WASAPI etc plugin
   
  I have FiiO E17, but the volume control of T1 is soooo much better. T1 also enables sound tweaking via tube rolling. I think in your case you'll be mainly limited by your headphones.
   
  You can use headroom to find headphones with suitable frequency response: http://www.headphone.com/learning-center/build-a-graph.php?graphID[0]=2851&graphID[1]=853&graphID[2]=&graphID[3]=&scale=30&graphType=0&buttonSelection=Update+Graph


----------



## 3t3p

Hi thanks for the reply.
   
  Not looking to get new cans at all so bit of a blow there.
   
  Guess i'll run em into the ground and in the future look to 650's or something paired with a decent desktop amp.


----------



## CoiL

Question: I dropped one of my Tungsram PCC88 tubes and now it`s kind of faulty. It works well without any distortion etc. but to start it I have to give it little snip-knock with finger. If I don`t do it nothing will happen, tube won`t start glowing and neither the led.
 Is it safe to use tube like this? I`m using it only for night-time listening when most of time I have fell asleep when music is playing


----------



## Salvatore

Guys it would be much obliged if you could check the info page I've been working on for any major errors. Also suggestions for new content would be appreciated. Link below and in my signature.
   
  http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> Question: I dropped one of my Tungsram PCC88 tubes and now it`s kind of faulty. It works well without any distortion etc. but to start it I have to give it little snip-knock with finger. If I don`t do it nothing will happen, tube won`t start glowing and neither the led.
> 
> Is it safe to use tube like this? I`m using it only for night-time listening when most of time I have fell asleep when music is playing


I think they would be fine. Since it's just in a buffer stage, even an arcing tube wouldn't do enough to blow anything out. I'd start worrying about tube integrity when you're dealing with power tubes. 




salvatore said:


> Guys it would be much obliged if you could check the info page I've been working on for any major errors. Also suggestions for new content would be appreciated. Link below and in my signature.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294




Looks great! I've used that post quite a few times for figuring out manu dates. Super helpful.


----------



## inphu510n

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> Guys it would be much obliged if you could check the info page I've been working on for any major errors. Also suggestions for new content would be appreciated. Link below and in my signature.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294


 
  Awesome!!!
  Thanks for collecting this info. I have a few of these pages bookmarked as well.
  This should be linked to in the first post here if it's not already.


----------



## sheep duck

does anyone have an issue with their t1 where they are watching a video/stream (twitch or youtube) and after opening foobar (possibly other audio players?) and then after trying to go back to the youtube/twitch stream, there is no audio? I have to close my browser and open it back up for the sound to resume. I'm on windows 8 if that makes any difference.


----------



## stjj89

Quote: 





sheep duck said:


> does anyone have an issue with their t1 where they are watching a video/stream (twitch or youtube) and after opening foobar (possibly other audio players?) and then after trying to go back to the youtube/twitch stream, there is no audio? I have to close my browser and open it back up for the sound to resume. I'm on windows 8 if that makes any difference.


 
   
  That happens for me too, though I'm pretty sure it's because of the fact that foobar uses the exclusive mode of the SPDIF interface and thus blocks out other applications from using it. Does anyone know of a way to tell foobar to cede its exclusive control over the interface without closing it?


----------



## Ophiel

Most likely u're on WASAPI mode which totally bypasses the windows mixer. The only way to solve it is to change to other modes (other than ASIO) but that will make ur music non-bit perfect


----------



## firefly89

laon said:


> Have tried playing with the gain switches?


 
   
  yes, made no difference really in terms of sound quality, (exactly as expected), volume was fine out the box (it was actually already set the 16db)
   


salvatore said:


> K701 are definitely not the cans for bass heavy music, lol. Of course it sounds thin if you're used to EQ the bass. I would rather get another pair of headphones than EQing things too much. First get used to the K701-E12 combo without bass boost and then move to the T1 and do the critical comparison.


 
   
  the k701's stay, they're my gaming headphones (competitive first person shooters), I would consider adding senn 650's, fidellio x1's, m50's- or eventually upgrading to audeze lcd2
  but i don't really want to become a 'hi-fi nut'/audiophile, nor do I want to own multiple sets of expensive headphones
   
  that being said, if I own the fiio e12 for the sole purpose of adding bass to the k701 (and that cost £110), then it would only be an extra £40 for the m50's
   
  from the first second of owning the e12 and k701 I used the bass boost, I just needed it to make it sound good, my old headphones (k81dj) had been bass heavy so I was used to that sound really, it's not just the bass kick that the fiio e12 adds, it's the added weight to vocals. Sure a lot of music I listen to with limited bass actually benefits from the more detailed DAC/amps (best would be the audio engine d1), but for general listening (and an opinion echoed by other non hi-fi friends) is that in blind tests the e12 with bass boost is more musical, and downright pleasurable compared to running straight out the DAC- i'm not interested in transparency, or accuracy, just making music sound really lush
   
   


joeq70 said:


> Your assessment that the T1 DAC is more impressive than the T1 amp is correct. The DAC is awesome, the amp is usually adequate, but not necessarily ideal (works great for my purposes though). People drop the money on the T1 because of the great DAC and tube swapping ability. Before you dismiss the amp, however, make sure you use max gain (turn the switches under the unit to ON) since you are trying to power AKGs. The volume knob on the T1 exclusively controls the headphone amp portion of the unit. If you use an external amp like the e12, then the e12 knob will control the volume. I'm not aware of another piece of equipment that sounds like the T1 but has the other features you seek, but maybe somebody here has some input there. I like the blue light so I have no experience changing it, but maybe somebody who has done it can make a walkthrough?


 
   
  I suspected as such, the DAC is as detailed as the audioengine d1, but has a slight magic to it too- a hair raising sound, the D1 on the other hand sounded like it was expecting me to sit, take notes and become lost in audiophilia rather than becomming lost in music, I just never really warmed to it, which sucks because I wanted to love it. Amp wise I think the d1 has the better amp
   
  the way I have it set up is the aune is neatly on the desk next to the screen, usb and power cable in the back, 2xrca going out the back too. The fiio e12 (with power, massive headphone jack, and the rca to 3.5mm adaptor) sits under the desk as its so messy, meaning volume adjustment is an absolute pain- so ideally i'd be controlling audio at the DAC stage, but i've set it to 24 bit and control volume from the computer, can't hear any noticable quality loss
   


mreleventy said:


> What Sal said. AKG x70x series aren't known for their bass.
> 
> E: Try getting the AKG 702 Anniversary Pads. They supposedly seal better for better bass response. That might help a bit.
> Try looking up the Maverick Tubemagic D1 or D1 Plus. It covers most of what you want except for the 2 lineouts. It has 2 lineouts but they're different. One is SS and the other is Tubed buffer. It's also similarly priced at $200.
> If it's a short duration, leave it on.


 
   
  from reading the thread on changing the pads it seems i'd lose some soundstage and clarity- 2 qualities I don't want to lose. I get that headphones are compromises, and at this price point (or any price point) there is no one size fits all fix, which is why some of you have 3 sets of headphones/DAC/amp's...
  but still i'm happy with the k701's (especially for what I paid for them)
   
  wil look more into the maverick, but as i'm based in the UK shipping can be a bitch- especially as i'm now so in love with the free shipping and returns from amazon prime
   


coil said:


> 1) Volume knob on Aune T1 IS working very well, it`s smooth and with wide range. Remind yourself this is low priced bang-for-buck product that already does more than it`s meant imho. If you definitely wanted that knob control you should have read more carefully about that piece when you bought it. I also would like to have that option to control line-out but then again - is it really needed? Separate amp should control speakers and that`s the only right way to do it imo.
> 
> 2) Blue LED? I think it`s more blueish-white and you can easily turn it into nice glowing color in ~5sec if you have right material and you are good with scissors  ...like I posted few pages ago:
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2700#post_9717729
> ...


 
   
  1) as was said below I was refering to it's lack of function in line out mode
  2) cool, thanks
  3) what % would you say it was then? if im being honest, the cheap card (which isn't a total POS, it still has a good DAC in it) has a certain low-fi quality I really like, the muddiness sounds musical, and warm- I don't listen to 'audiophile recordings', or chamber music, or classical, and a lot of what I listen to was mastered in a low end studio, but the forgiving xonar u3 smoothes it out, a high end DAC sometimes feels too sharp, revealing, clinical and fatiguing- I like the added 'thickness' that the xonar u3, (and also the aune t1) give to the sound, particularly with the low end- the aune retains clarity in the high end better, but it's not night and day- I could listen to the xonar u3 + fiio e12 and be happy, the aune t1 also makes me happy, but i'm still undecided if it's worth £130 extra. I'd like to do a blind ABX and see if I can actually spot the difference
  (for what it's worth my job is a photographer, and the difference between a £300 and a £1000 lens is not that great, take a photo and blow it up to a poster print and even then it's pretty hard to spot the differences)
   
  I could buy the wa7, the senn 650, the fidellio x1
  if you haven't heard the wa7 and compared it against the aune t1 (in a blind test) then where's the evidence that it's 'different level'- maybe it is, but so far my experiences of going from just built in ipod output vs DAC/amp have proved that gains are modest, and the law of diminishing returns has a very very steep curve
   
  if the wa7 had spdif input, 2 line out's, had the deep bass I was looking for and could be purchased from a shop for $1000 I would be picking one up (or at least auditioning it) tomorrow morning
   
   


mreleventy said:


> Whoa! Slow down there CoiL. He merely has questions and comments. No need to jump down his throat, we were all new once right?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
   
  for sure the wa7 will be better, I would buy one if I was in the US- but $1000 + shipping, plus import tax gets expensive very quickly,
  and $1000 is a lot of money- 5x more than the aune- saving $800 is a lot of money to invest in other things
  it does look great though, I like the aune though too- it's rather art deco looking
   
  i'm actually using the EH upgrade tube, but I don't really want to get into tube rolling- I actually just want to listen to music rather than endlessly tweak my gear
   
   


laon said:


> I know some dac/amp allow for line out volume control but it's far and between, people generally expect LO to be devoid of volume pot, and I agree that he's better off with bassier cans than trying to chase those holy grail dac/amp which could turn K701 into a basshead cans.


 
   
  the audioengine d1 has a great line out volume knob, and the fiio e17 has a switch for EQ/volume control on/off on the LO- in fact the aune is the only amp I now own that doesn't do volume adjustment on LO. I'm not one for riding the volume knob but it is a hell of a lot easier to grab than the tiny fiio knob
   
   


salvatore said:


> Yeah I agree that it sounded a bit harsh. Hopefully *firefly* didn't get offended by our words.
> 
> Now to go back to that K701 amplification issue I have to agree that I sometimes feel that my K702 anniversaries could benefit from more powerful amplifier. I was heavily considering of getting M-stage to go with the T1, but then someone in this thread tested that combo and said that the M-stage didn't really make much of an improvement. I did experiment with higher gain settings, but I still prefer to use the lowest gain. Like *MrEleventy* said, K70X bass response can be amplified by getting the anniversary pads. They are quite expensive but gives you warmer bassier and more balanced sound while still maintaining those sweet forward clear mids and treble. In case someone is interested here is my pad comparison/review: http://www.head-fi.org/t/626971/akg-k702-65th-anniversary-edition/2670#post_9533670


 
   
   
  thanks, i'll look intot he k702 pads- honestly I think the bass on the k701's is fine, it's deep, it's plentiful- it just needs a hardware/software EQ to reach it, and the volume needs to be quite high otherwise the bass suddenly disappears- there's definitely a sweet spot where the volume gets to a point where it suddenly sounds great, if the k702 pads could give the same bass but at lower listening levels I think my ears would thank me for it.
   
  not too offended...


----------



## firefly89

p.s. I also think the DAC sounds a lot better when it's been allowed to warm up for 30 minutes


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





firefly89 said:


> the k701's stay, they're my gaming headphones (competitive first person shooters), I would consider adding senn 650's, fidellio x1's, m50's- or eventually upgrading to audeze lcd2
> but i don't really want to become a 'hi-fi nut'/audiophile, nor do I want to own multiple sets of expensive headphones
> 
> that being said, if I own the fiio e12 for the sole purpose of adding bass to the k701 (and that cost £110), then it would only be an extra £40 for the m50's
> ...


 
   
  You obviously know what you want which is a good thing. Seems like you got everything covered with K701 + e12. It's true that you gain and lose some with the anniversary pads and I'm not sure if they can provide you enough bass. You could read the review from MLE's gaming headphone guide if that helps. Another option would be to get X1, but like you said you don't need more headphones and after K701 you'd lose some details with X1 and I'm not sure if you'd like those cans after all.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





sheep duck said:


> does anyone have an issue with their t1 where they are watching a video/stream (twitch or youtube) and after opening foobar (possibly other audio players?) and then after trying to go back to the youtube/twitch stream, there is no audio? I have to close my browser and open it back up for the sound to resume. I'm on windows 8 if that makes any difference.


 
  I have the same problem under windows 7 ultimate with ASIO winamp plugin + ASIO4ALL. With KSP it`s ok.


----------



## CoiL

Quote: 





> i'm actually using the EH upgrade tube, but I don't really want to get into tube rolling- I actually just want to listen to music rather than endlessly tweak my gear


 
  Tubes are the point of Aune T1. You don`t have to endlessly tweak your gear. At least get the Amperex OG tube to get the "real taste" of Aune T1.


----------



## joeq70

coil said:


> Tubes are the point of Aune T1. You don`t have to endlessly tweak your gear. At least get the Amperex OG tube to get the "real taste" of Aune T1.



This. The EH "upgrade" is a waste IMO.


----------



## MrEleventy

joeq70 said:


> This. The EH "upgrade" is a waste IMO.


+1; 6922EH is ok and doesn't wow out of the box like some of the other good cheapies. You would be doing yourself a disservice by not picking up another tube.


----------



## laon

I can't go back to EH6922 after I listened to a dirt cheap NOS NEC E88CC, though I got my aune used already with the tube cheap anyway so I'll just use it as a beater tube. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



   
  So yeah I agree, don't get the "upgrade version" if you have the choice, get the cheaper one and save the $$ for some NOS tube, even the cheap one will be better.


----------



## firefly89

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> You obviously know what you want which is a good thing. Seems like you got everything covered with K701 + e12. It's true that you gain and lose some with the anniversary pads and I'm not sure if they can provide you enough bass. You could read the review from MLE's gaming headphone guide if that helps. Another option would be to get X1, but like you said you don't need more headphones and after K701 you'd lose some details with X1 and I'm not sure if you'd like those cans after all.


 
   
   
  I'd like to try the aniversary pads in the future, from what i've heard the q701, k701 and k702 all use the same drivers, so any sonic differences come from the pads- so that's interesting
   
  I read MLE's guide, it's what made me get the k701's- after getting them I went 38-2 in call of duty, so I know what he means when he says 'aural wallhack', he rates the X1's pretty highly too, so might try them some time too. So if I got the x1 and loved them (and didn't need the bassboost eq) I would still have the e12 as a portable amp set up, and as someone already said the T1 dac is great but the amp not so much, so even if I got sennheiser 650's, or the x1's i'd still probably run them through the aune/fiio combo (as the fiio is a great amp, it's their flagship product, and it's obvious they're very proud of it)
   
  So I think keeping the fiio e12, and the aune t1 is the best course of action, keep the 701's for gaming and maybe in the future i'll get different headphones, might actually opt for the m50's to replace my k81's as my travel headphones
   
   
  Quote: 





coil said:


> Tubes are the point of Aune T1. You don`t have to endlessly tweak your gear. At least get the Amperex OG tube to get the "real taste" of Aune T1.


 
   
   
  I will look into the amperex OG- thanks
   
  Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> This. The EH "upgrade" is a waste IMO.


 
   
  it was only like £10 more, no big deal
   
  Quote: 





mreleventy said:


> +1; 6922EH is ok and doesn't wow out of the box like some of the other good cheapies. You would be doing yourself a disservice by not picking up another tube.


 
   
  well it wowed me out the box, if another tube is even better, then maybe i'll try that


----------



## stjj89

Just pulled the trigger on a 1978 Vokshod 6N23P Rocket (I heard the 70s ones are better), and have a Russian 6N23P-EB on the way (thanks to joeq70!). I'll be setting aside some time over the next few weeks to write up my impressions/comparisons of these two tubes alongside my Amperex 7308 JAN White Label and EH6922.

 On another note, this being my first discrete DAC/amp, I have a few questions:

 How much of a difference does tube rolling make in the DAC output buffer (like in the Aune T1) compared to tube rolling in, say, a preamp or power amp?
 In the long term, would it be a good idea to keep the Aune T1 as a DAC, and route it to a more powerful amp like the Schiit Lyr? Is there any worry of the Aune T1's tube DAC being a bottleneck in this chain with a more expensive in any way?


----------



## Salvatore

Quote: 





stjj89 said:


> How much of a difference does tube rolling make in the DAC output buffer (like in the Aune T1) compared to tube rolling in, say, a preamp or power amp?


 
   
  With T1 the differences should definitely be more subtle.
   
  Quote: 





stjj89 said:


> In the long term, would it be a good idea to keep the Aune T1 as a DAC, and route it to a more powerful amp like the Schiit Lyr? Is there any worry of the Aune T1's tube DAC being a bottleneck in this chain with a more expensive in any way?


 
   
  You might be interested of reading this: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/885#post_9185553 also remember that in Lyr you should have matched pairs of tubes.


----------



## stjj89

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> You might be interested of reading this: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/885#post_9185553 also remember that in Lyr you should have matched pairs of tubes.


 
   
  Thanks for the link! It seems like one user reported them being a bad matching because of lack of matched pairs of tubes, and another reported having good results with it (on another amp). I guess the answer is that the Aune T1 can hold its own as a standalone DAC even with a higher-end amp, though it would depend on the synergies between the sound signatures produced by both components?


----------



## Salvatore

If I was personally thinking of getting Lyr I would probably consider matching it with something very transparent and neutral sounding DAC and let the Lyr / tube rolling do the coloration. Therefore ODAC seems like a good option like *toschek* did there. T1 / Lyr combo is probably not the ideal combo because you are increasing the tube rolling variation. It could be that the great T1 tubes are not so great anymore with such combo. I would either pair T1 with more powerful ss amp or pair Lyr with something like ODAC. This being said T1 can indeed hold it's own against more expensive pieces of equipment and hence offers a great value for money. You get a taste of tube rolling and only need single tubes to do that. Ebay is full of great single tube deals but to find such deals for matched duals or quadruples... well that could take forever.
   
  So I suggest people to go with T1 if they want a) a very nice DAC which can be later paired with a more powerful ss amp and/or b) to try tube rolling.


----------



## firefly89

Quote: 





salvatore said:


> So I suggest people to go with T1 if they want a) a very nice DAC which can be later paired with a more powerful ss amp and/or b) to try tube rolling.


 
   
  agreed, I think it sounds wonderful with the fiio e12 (solid state amp), the e12 is a really good performer, it gets great reviews, it's plenty powerful, and IMO works well with the bass boost, if you don't like the bass, or don't need the bass boost on your headphones then just leave it off
   
   
   
  I have a question, earlier in the thread I was recommended to try the Amperex OG tubes, 
are those the ones linked at the beginning of the thread? the 'holographic' tubes or a different set?


----------



## Salvatore

I think the recommended OG's are part of 6DJ8 tube family and are not as transparent/holographic as the 7308 (they look something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-ORANGE-GLOBE-6DJ8-ECC88-VACUUM-TUBE-1967-K-MATCHED-PAIR-SWEET-TONE-NOS-/221271442158?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3384ce42ee).
   
  Quote from Joe's tube lore: "_Amperex 6DJ8, Orange globe logo, Holland (shield, steel pins,) Much better than the above tube No comparison in fact. Warm, vibrant, lively, grainless, transparent Amperex sound. Killer tube. Almost as good as my reference Amperex 6922s (coming up soon). I slightly prefer this tube to the best of the Siemens 6DJ8s, 6922s & 7308s._"
   
  Check out the link in my signature to find tube reviews and more info about amperex tubes.


----------



## CoiL

If you are buying Amperex OG`s my recommendation is to prefer them in following code order: GAC > GA8 > GAE


----------



## teb1013

salvatore said:


> I think the recommended OG's are part of 6DJ8 tube family and are not as transparent/holographic as the 7308 (they look something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-ORANGE-GLOBE-6DJ8-ECC88-VACUUM-TUBE-1967-K-MATCHED-PAIR-SWEET-TONE-NOS-/221271442158?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3384ce42ee).
> 
> Quote from Joe's tube lore: "_Amperex 6DJ8, Orange globe logo, Holland (shield, steel pins,) Much better than the above tube No comparison in fact. Warm, vibrant, lively, grainless, transparent Amperex sound. Killer tube. Almost as good as my reference Amperex 6922s (coming up soon). I slightly prefer this tube to the best of the Siemens 6DJ8s, 6922s & 7308s._"
> 
> Check out the link in my signature to find tube reviews and more info about amperex tubes.




The Amperex 7308 is my favorite due to the very transparency you mention. I am currently trying out a Siemens E88CC gold from Joeq70 which has a wider soundstage than the 7308 but seems less transparent, at least for the short time that I have been using it. I will see how it seems after a few more hours listening.


----------



## teb1013

After several hours of listening to the Siemens E88CC, I find this to be a nice laid back tube with a smooth sound and wide soundstage. Going back to the Amperex 7308, I find a more detailed and more liquid sound (especially in piano and female vocals). I am still not good enough in analytical listening to explain the difference, but, I like the Amperex a bit better. It is interesting to note that I found the Siemens pleasant to listen to and only appreciated the difference when I switched back to the 7308 in the middle of a song. By comparison I found the Voskhod too forward and tiring to listen to for very long. I can listen to the Siemens or Amperex without limit.


----------



## xkonfuzed

I have a couple of questions if you guys could help me out: 
   
  What kind of adapter does it have (US or UK)? And would it fit something like this?
   

   
  My other question is that would it work fine with a headphone like the MDR MA900 which has an impedance of 12ohms only? I don't fully understand the 1/8th impedance rule here so help me out. 
   
  One last question, has anyone tried the T1 with 6N1P tubes? 
   
  Any help will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Loquah

I recently tried the T1 and found a noise continually present on upper frequencies around 800-2000Hz. It's like a metallic buzzing sound when there are any volume peaks in those frequency ranges.
   
  I tried a number of different tracks and used both MediaMonkey and Foobar in case it was the software. In MediaMonkey I used WASAPI and DirectSound with no change. I also tried a few different headphones.
   
  Any ideas what could be causing this noise? Has anyone else noticed this?


----------



## joeq70

loquah said:


> I recently tried the T1 and found a noise continually present on upper frequencies around 800-2000Hz. It's like a metallic buzzing sound when there are any volume peaks in those frequency ranges.
> 
> 
> I tried a number of different tracks and used both MediaMonkey and Foobar in case it was the software. In MediaMonkey I used WASAPI and DirectSound with no change. I also tried a few different headphones.
> ...



Have you tried more than one tube?


----------



## Loquah

Quote: 





joeq70 said:


> Have you tried more than one tube?


 
   
  Yes (and thanks for asking). It does sound like tube noise, but occurs with multiple new tubes.


----------



## CoiL

Try USB cable +5VSB pin cut-off from the PC end, might be grounding issue? And what are the tubes causing that "buzz"? Just in case asking, maybe using wrong tubes? 
  Never occurred this problem with my unit.


----------



## Loquah

coil said:


> Try USB cable +5VSB pin cut-off from the PC end, might be grounding issue? And what are the tubes causing that "buzz"? Just in case asking, maybe using wrong tubes?
> Never occurred this problem with my unit.




It's not my unit and the tubes are the upgraded option supplied by Aune I believe. 

Would earth issues cause noise only at upper frequencies?

I'll see if we can try removing a pin from the USB cable.


----------



## CoiL

So, you tested only with stock 6N11 & "upgrade" 6922EH ? You can expect everything from 6922EH since many of them die quickly and may have imbalances, so no wondering about noise issue. Try another tubes. If problem stays, ask for replacement unit.
  Btw, which kind of USB cable you got with that unit? Black or grey? I changed my black one immediately for better foil shielded 1M cable and cut off that +5VSB pin.


----------



## Illbetheone

*Russian Rocket vs Tungsram PCC88*
   
  Got my Russian Rocket tube in the mail from Upscale Audio. I am really enjoying it, and generally prefer it over the stock tube and Tungsram PCC88.
   
*Music*
   
  The Rocket really has that tube sound everyone keeps talking about while I would say the Tungsram has a more full bodied sound than the Rocket. Each one compliments my EDM songs differently; some sound ok with the Rocket and great with the Tungsram, and vice versa. However, in the end, I still prefer the Rocket (maybe that's because it agrees with my headphones better - Audio-Technica WS99). The Rocket's bass is a bit punchier, with lush mids and an agreeable soundstage. The Tungsram's bass is on par with my cans, has acceptable mids and a wider soundstage. The highs on both sounded the same to me - not overbearing just the way I like them.
   
  Track List:
   
  Calvin Harris - Live from Electric Daisy Carnival (Las Vegas 2013)
  Armin Van Buuren - Live from Ultra Music Festival (Week 1 - Miami 2013)
  Tritonal - Tritonia Radio Episodes 1 & 13 (2013)
  Dash Berlin- Live from ASOT600  (Den Bosch 2013)
   
*Gaming *
   
  I found the Rocket to be my choice for PC gaming as well, since at some points I found hearing people/baddies/ect, difficult with the Tungsram. With the Tungsram they all seemed to blend into one another. Granted, I can still discern what I am hearing - but it was more difficult than the Rocket; thereby impeding my ability to play my best.
   
  Games Played:
   
  Dishonored
  Dishonored - The Knife of Dunwall
  Firefall
   
   
  Obviously, this is my opinion and shouldn't disuade you from not buying one over the other. Try both and see what works best for you.
   
  Next up, is seeing how much different the Gold Lion is from the above mentioned tubes.


----------



## CoiL

Yeah, it`s also about cans match too. WS99 cans are pretty bass-heavy and thus the differences we hear. I have HD-681 (with mkII Frans filter mod + custom pads), which is more "neutral" sounding (still with little extended bass) and with more brought out mids section I quess. Glad you like the rocket


----------



## xkonfuzed

I hate sounding like a broken record, but nobody answered my previous questions. All i wanted to know is if the T1 comes with a UK or US adapter. And if it can drive low impedance (12ohm and 38ohm) cans such as the mdr ma900 and ATH-M50.


----------



## robrob

The adapter is probably dependant on who you order from. I'm in the US and it came with the right connector. The T1 can definitely drive low impedance cans--just adjust the gain switches to 0 gain.


----------



## xkonfuzed

Quote: 





robrob said:


> The adapter is probably dependant on who you order from. I'm in the US and it came with the right connector. The T1 can definitely drive low impedance cans--just adjust the gain switches to 0 gain.


 
  Thanks, I guess I'll have to order it from Amazon then.


----------



## Davils Advocate

Hey there, So when I got my AUNE T1 a couple months ago, it arrived as a defective unit (Channel Imbalance) and I never sent it back because it costs around $150 to ship it to china. where would be a good place to look at that can repair my T1 here in the US?


----------



## shrimants

My T1 had horrendous noise on the right line out channel. I wanted to use my O2 as the amp with T1 as a dac. No idea What was going on with it.

Also, for some reason that I havent figured out, the T1 was causing my video game's sound to hiccup constantly. I've sent that unit back and am expecting a new one in the mail sometime, but I'd rather just sell it because I end up using my reciever's headphone jack or my O2 mostly. Also because im not about to drop 75 bucks on this thing just to try a tube out that I might not even notice any difference with.


----------



## penmarker

Well, more stories about defected units. I guess I'm not exactly lonely now lol.


----------



## HoboBob

Been lurking since May.

 I must say a big thank you to you all for the questions and answers you provided.

 I've been using my Aune for about 2 weeks now - stock 6922EH - and I must say that it is quite nice.

 Although, I was wondering if the FiiO e10 could be used paired with the Aune. Would it provide a noticeable gain or is it pointless? I'm still new to this and do not know in which order to place them to get a gain (if any).

 I'm also on the lookout for new tubes to try as I find that my DT880 600ohms and HD598 are ok with it, not just amazing. Just difficult to either order through eBay or to find a shop that sells any around here.

 Thanks again.


----------



## MrEleventy

hobobob said:


> Been lurking since May.
> 
> 
> I must say a big thank you to you all for the questions and answers you provided.
> ...


E10 can be used as a dac only when chaining with the T1 thus you'll be using rca in on the t1. Not recommended. T1 is the better dac here. I have 880s as well and they are great if you can find a amperex orange globe. tames the highs a bit and brings forth the mids. great synergy with that combo


----------



## shrimants

Just wanted to say, i got mine during the mass drop when they were expecting about 55 of them to sell, and instead more than 200 people signed up. So my technical difficulties might just be the result of poor quality control and rushed labor.


----------



## hojomojo96

I'm considering getting this instead of the Modi/Magni combo. I do have a few questions though:
 The obvious, how do they compare?
 Has anyone tried them with Mad Dogs?
 Is quality control as poor as it seems?
 And what are the added costs to owning a tube amp? As in, how often will I have to replace tubes, how much do they cost, etc?
  
 EDIT: Would it be worth buying the Squaretrade 3 year warranty on this amp for $30?


----------



## joeq70

hojomojo96 said:


> I'm considering getting this instead of the Modi/Magni combo. I do have a few questions though:
> The obvious, how do they compare?
> Has anyone tried them with Mad Dogs?
> Is quality control as poor as it seems?
> ...


 
  
 1) Do a search in this thread for the word Magni and the word Modi..there are some remarks probably worth reading.
 2) General consensus appears to be that the Magni/Modi combo is a sidegreade at best. Although at least one person said pairing the Magni with the T1 was awesome.
 3) One of the main draws of the T1 is tube-swapping which helps you find perfect synergy with your gear.
 4) At least one person said the Mad Dog works well with the T1, but I cannot verify that personally.
 5) My T1 works perfect, but there have been several people claiming issues with imbalance and static. I think this is a vocal minority, but it also appears to be a more frequent problem than with most products I've seen on here.
 6) Tube life varies but since I've started this thread none of my tubes have died. You might want to google search the issue to find out more specific information. I feel like the fact that the tubes in the T1 are in the buffer stage that it is less strenuous but that is pure conjecture on my part.
 7) Good luck! I hope you enjoy whatever you end up with!


----------



## shrimants

I got my new T1 in, and since no one wants to buy it i went ahead and opened it. Right now im experiencing extremely harsh treble. So harsh that its clipping. This is going from T1 line out -> O2. I tried the O2 out of my sound card (which has a pretty flat output) and the clipping isnt there. Also, the treble is definitely increased because it kind of hurts to listen to music. Very sibilant.

Good news is, theres no more noise on the line output right channel like there was last time.

More good news is, im getting my AMB Gamma 2 fixed up, so this thing will end up simply gathering dust or something.


JUST KIDDING. I was diagnosing this and it turns out the O2 is the weak link. The input stage on the O2 is clipping.

sound card -> o2 = no clipping
T1 -> O2 = clipping.
T1 direct = no clipping.

Go figure.


----------



## Yazen

My T1 replacement arrived, and I'm loving it so far!
 I tried baking soda + vinegar on my voshkods, however I wasn't getting effective results until I resorted to using a wire scrapper + magic eraser.
  
 Not hearing a channel imbalance as of yet.  If I had to complain, I would point out that the pot is scratched a bit and the unit came smudged.
  
 Its not far better sounding than the Musiland 02 US for me, however I like the presentation the tubes give.
 EDIT:  The amp really is what sets it apart, as the DT 880 Pro doesn't shine on the 02's weak amp.


----------



## teb1013

joeq70 said:


> 1) Do a search in this thread for the word Magni and the word Modi..there are some remarks probably worth reading.
> 2) General consensus appears to be that the Magni/Modi combo is a sidegreade at best. Although at least one person said pairing the Magni with the T1 was awesome.
> 3) One of the main draws of the T1 is tube-swapping which helps you find perfect synergy with your gear.
> 4) At least one person said the Mad Dog works well with the T1, but I cannot verify that personally.
> ...




Excellent comments. My T1 has been perfect ever since I got it and I have truly enjoyed a bit of tube rolling, although I am pretty settled down with the Amperex 7308. It seems that a number of defects have been related to a mass purchase.


----------



## MrEleventy

shrimants said:


> I got my new T1 in, and since no one wants to buy it i went ahead and opened it. Right now im experiencing extremely harsh treble. So harsh that its clipping. This is going from T1 line out -> O2. I tried the O2 out of my sound card (which has a pretty flat output) and the clipping isnt there. Also, the treble is definitely increased because it kind of hurts to listen to music. Very sibilant.
> 
> Good news is, theres no more noise on the line output right channel like there was last time.
> 
> ...


I used to run t1 + o2, 2.5x gain and didn't get any clipping. o2 will definitely clip if the source outputs too high and/or gain is set too high on the o2.


----------



## shrimants

well, all 4 of the gain switches are set to OFF on the aune t1, the o2 is set to whatever the standard configuration is. so not sure why the o2 clips. dunno how to test the aune t1 line output for clipping in paraticular, but the problem is somewhere there. O2 has a clipping problem documented, along with channel imbalance due to using a crappy potentiometer. so yeah.


----------



## Ophiel

Personally I felt that the maddogs are quite treble happy, so if the m&m stack is bright(never heard of them), I wouldn't recommend it. T1 with the maddogs are fine; I liked songs with strong female vocals through that combination. (in all other aspects, I still found my HD600s better. But that's besides the point). At this point I prefer the tube sound over ss as I find it more intimate and for the T1 at least, with excellent timbre. I would say go for the T1s.


----------



## hojomojo96

How would this pair with the Musical Paradise MP-301 (mk 3), which has been described as incredibly tubey sounding, lush, and full sounding?


----------



## VincentMayer

Ok, I've been looking at AMPs and DACs for a long time now, and discovered this little gem, its a DAC/AMP and best of all it has a tube. I have always wanted to try a tube amp. I am getting close to purchasing a T1, and am just not sure what tube to get. I plan to try out many of the ones mentioned throughout this thread once I get the unit and spend some time with it, but would like at least 1 extra tube other than stock when I buy the T1.
  
 I currently have a pair of ATH-AD900s and listen to primarily electronic music, Boom Boom Satellites, Justice, FC Kahuna, Mr. Meeble... so on.
  
 Any pointers on a good first tube would be awesome.
  
 I know the 900s dont really need an amp at all, but I am doing this for better than mobo soundcard quality(my dedicated soundcard died on me) and so that I have an amp to use when I upgrade to something that needs an amp, currently eyeballing AKG k702s.


----------



## shrimants

This isn't a tube amp. It is a tube dac with a solid state amp. Tubes are listed in this thread. Sounds like that amperex tube is a good choice. Google it.


----------



## Salvatore

vincentmayer said:


> Ok, I've been looking at AMPs and DACs for a long time now, and discovered this little gem, its a DAC/AMP and best of all it has a tube. I have always wanted to try a tube amp. I am getting close to purchasing a T1, and am just not sure what tube to get. I plan to try out many of the ones mentioned throughout this thread once I get the unit and spend some time with it, but would like at least 1 extra tube other than stock when I buy the T1.
> 
> I currently have a pair of ATH-AD900s and listen to primarily electronic music, Boom Boom Satellites, Justice, FC Kahuna, Mr. Meeble... so on.
> 
> ...


 
  
 First of all, this is a tube DAC, which means that the tube doesn't change the sound as much as it does in those dedicated tube amps. Also the sound signature is on the bright side, so you don't get as analogue and tubey sound as with some of the "real" tube amps. You can, however, get tubes that shift the signature more towards such sound.
  
 The stock tube is pretty good for electronic imo. My advice is to start increasing your tube collection with relatively cheap tubes and see if you can hear any sonic differences at all.
  
 If you are eyeballing K702s, you should check K712s as well. I think they could be really nice for electronic music.
  
 E: Just did a headphone graph comparison between AD900, K702 and K712 (http://www.headphone.com/learning-center/build-a-graph.php?graphID[0]=2621&graphID[1]=3061&graphID[2]=4163&graphID[3]=&scale=30&graphType=0&buttonSelection=Update+Graph). I haven't listened AD900, but I have K702 anniversaries with standard K702 pads. It seems that AD900 are, just like K702s, slightly bass light and on the bright side. In this light, tube amp could indeed be a good choice for you. If you decide to go for the T1 I suggest you to get something warm lush mellow sounding tubes to get the best synergy with your cans. Another option is to go for cans that have more sub and mid bass (if you even need bass that is).


----------



## teb1013

salvatore said:


> First of all, this is a tube DAC, which means that the tube doesn't change the sound as much as it does in those dedicated tube amps. Also the sound signature is on the bright side, so you don't get as analogue and tubey sound as with some of the "real" tube amps. You can, however, get tubes that shift the signature more towards such sound.
> 
> The stock tube is pretty good for electronic imo. My advice is to start increasing your tube collection with relatively cheap tubes and see if you can hear any sonic differences at all.
> 
> If you are eyeballing K702s, you should check K712s as well. I think they could be really nice for electronic music.




The tube you get with the T1 varies. Although I ordered mine with no upgrades, I got the 6922 EH with the unit, which is a pretty good starter tube. This is often listed with a Chinese tube, which, I understand, is poor. Still it is best not to order an "upgrade" from the seller but to buy tubes as you move forward.


----------



## Salvatore

Good point. By stock tube I mean steel pin Electro-Harmonix 6922EH.


----------



## Illbetheone

vincentmayer said:


> Ok, I've been looking at AMPs and DACs for a long time now, and discovered this little gem, its a DAC/AMP and best of all it has a tube. I have always wanted to try a tube amp. I am getting close to purchasing a T1, and am just not sure what tube to get. I plan to try out many of the ones mentioned throughout this thread once I get the unit and spend some time with it, but would like at least 1 extra tube other than stock when I buy the T1.
> 
> I currently have a pair of ATH-AD900s and listen to primarily electronic music, Boom Boom Satellites, Justice, FC Kahuna, Mr. Meeble... so on.
> 
> ...


 
  
 As some one who loves EDM music too - I found that the Russian Rocket tube is excellent. Further I would take a look at the WS99 from Audio-Technica instead of the K702s. The WS99's are touted as a "solid bass" headphone but they are not a basshead can in the least. For the price they are perfect for EDM music - the bass is there through all spectrums and the vocals are a bit forward as well. The drivers are fast enough to keep up with EDM and for their price they are pretty hard to beat. This in conjunction with the Russian Rocket tube makes a potent combination for EDM.
  
Russian Rocket
  
 or
  
Tungsram PCC88
  
  
 Check out my reviews here and here


----------



## VincentMayer

ops, sorry, even if its not a real tube amp, still something to get my feet wet and gotta start some place. And the T1 really caught my eye when I learned about it.
  
 Thanks for the tips, I've read through a lot of this forum and have many tubes on my list I've started, the rocket and tungsram are on there, but for the price I guess I will start with those 2 and be sure I get a good unit before getting some of the more pricey tubes like the amperex to try out.


----------



## MrEleventy

vincentmayer said:


> ops, sorry, even if its not a real tube amp, still something to get my feet wet and gotta start some place. And the T1 really caught my eye when I learned about it.
> 
> Thanks for the tips, I've read through a lot of this forum and have many tubes on my list I've started, the rocket and tungsram are on there, but for the price I guess I will start with those 2 and be sure I get a good unit before getting some of the more pricey tubes like the amperex to try out.


 
  
 Amperex Orange Globes shouldn't set you back more than $10-20. If you like them, then you can give the 7308s a try.


----------



## VincentMayer

mreleventy said:


> Amperex Orange Globes shouldn't set you back more than $10-20. If you like them, then you can give the 7308s a try.


 
  
 ahh, didnt look at those, only looked at the 7308 gold pins. thanks


----------



## Illbetheone

Has anyone here tried the Philips E88CC from the 1960s? If so, what are your thoughts on it? Is it worth the high asking price?


----------



## hojomojo96

Just a heads up, the deal on the Aune T1 on that group buy site which will go unmentioned for now looks like it may be looming once again, it is 19 votes away from an official response.


----------



## Paspie

Well for those who may be interested, that new tube I was waiting for arrived a while ago and I've had no problems since then.
  
 I'd suggest for anyone receiving one to fiddle with the switches on the base of the unit, even if you don't understand what they do they tend to change the sound quite a bit and your headphones may be better suited to one of the non-default settings. I believe they're for adjusting the gain, but frankly I couldn't relate what was stated in the manual to my headphone's specifications. Either way, they might help you out.


----------



## MrEleventy

hojomojo96 said:


> Just a heads up (I don't know if this is against the thread rules or anything, if it is then a mod can by all means delete this), the * deal on the Aune T1 looks like it may be looming once again


 Yeah, no mentions of THAT site is allowed here. i'd edit that out.


----------



## teb1013

paspie said:


> Well for those who may be interested, that new tube I was waiting for arrived a while ago and I've had no problems since then.
> 
> I'd suggest for anyone receiving one to fiddle with the switches on the base of the unit, even if you don't understand what they do they tend to change the sound quite a bit and your headphones may be better suited to one of the non-default settings. I believe they're for adjusting the gain, but frankly I couldn't relate what was stated in the manual to my headphone's specifications. Either way, they might help you out.




Check out MrEleventy's quote below. 



mreleventy said:


> they're gain switches. all down is 0db. left ones up is+10, all up is +16




I began with 0 gain for my HD558s and they worked fine, but +10 gives more "oomph" without over pushing these.


----------



## hojomojo96

mreleventy said:


> Yeah, no mentions of THAT site is allowed here. i'd edit that out.


 
  
 There we go, better now?


----------



## kkib

What is this "Upgrade Version" they are talking about. Price also seem to have gone up.I bought mine about 6 months ago at the regular price for about $40 cheaper.


----------



## joeq70

kkib said:


> What is this "Upgrade Version" they are talking about. Price also seem to have gone up.I bought mine about 6 months ago at the regular price for about $40 cheaper.



Upgrade version means it comes with a better tube. Not worth it, honestly, better to collect some of the many well-reviewed tubes in this thread.


----------



## teb1013

joeq70 said:


> Upgrade version means it comes with a better tube. Not worth it, honestly, better to collect some of the many well-reviewed tubes in this thread.




I ordered the basic T1 (with the cheap-o Chinese tube) and it came with the "upgrade" 6922 EH tube anyway. Even if you get the Chinese tube, it will probably cost less to buy a better tube from a reputable supplier than to pay the extra for the "upgrade".


----------



## Kaaf

illbetheone said:


> Has anyone here tried the Philips E88CC from the 1960s? If so, what are your thoughts on it? Is it worth the high asking price?


 
  
 I've got a Phillips E88CC but I doubt it's from the 60's. How can you tell? It probaly wasn't because it was "only" €20,00
 FYI it's my favorite tube (compared to pcc189, the voskhod and the standard EH tubes) but that very subjective


----------



## Salvatore

kaaf said:


> I've got a Phillips E88CC but I doubt it's from the 60's. How can you tell?


 
  
 Are the factory codes visible? If they are use this: http://www.pauls-roehren.de/downloads/PhilipsCodeListAB.pdf


----------



## Illbetheone

kaaf said:


> I've got a Phillips E88CC but I doubt it's from the 60's. How can you tell? It probaly wasn't because it was "only" €20,00
> FYI it's my favorite tube (compared to pcc189, the voskhod and the standard EH tubes) but that very subjective




Is this the one you have?


item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=200952943555


----------



## Textfeud

Are the Mullard ecc88/6dj8 any good? I can get one for 25 euro or two for 45 euro. Is this a normal price? I'm using them with the AD2000 and I'm looking for either an even wider soundstage or a bit more bass. Either one will be fine.


----------



## Kaaf

illbetheone said:


> Is this the one you have?
> 
> 
> item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=200952943555




Looks alot like it. Mine is am philips miniwatt e88cc made in holland 
*sq* special quality 7L4 49J code but could also be delta rho j....

Bought it from a guy in the netherlands who has more of them for sale. See the link in my previous posts in this tread. But I still think it's not. 60's model. Considering the shape it's in


----------



## mink42

Will these power HD600's well?


----------



## Kaaf

mink42 said:


> Will these power HD600's well?


 
  
 They centainly do. I bought my hd600 after listening to several other headhones (hd800, dt880 hd700, grado) and the the HD600 sounded best (and was among the cheapest) in combantion with the aune t1


----------



## shrimants

I have hd650 and on low gain mode I cannot go past about 35% volume because it gets too loud. Yes, it will drive the piss out of the hd600.


----------



## mink42

Thanks for the replies guys


----------



## teb1013

kaaf said:


> They centainly do. I bought my hd600 after listening to several other headhones (hd800, dt880 hd700, grado) and the the HD600 sounded best (and was among the cheapest) in combantion with the aune t1




Great news. I currently have the 558 and the 600 will be my next step. What gain do you have your T1 set at with the 600?


----------



## jipan

At first I used 0 gain, but the volume is not enough, so switched to gain 10. Sound quality wise, I found gain 0 sounded more airy and free, than gain 10, but your experience may different.




teb1013 said:


> Great news. I currently have the 558 and the 600 will be my next step. What gain do you have your T1 set at with the 600?



 


I wish Aune T1 little bit darker, I found I EQ-ed (oh the horror!  ) 3.5k and up down a little bit, jut one click on my foobar2000 EQ. Is it just me, or FiiO E10 have blacker background and better separation than Aune T1 using EH 6922?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

kaaf said:


> They centainly do. I bought my hd600 after listening to several other headhones (hd800, dt880 hd700, grado) and the the HD600 sounded best (and was among the cheapest) in combantion with the aune t1


 
 Any problem that such as HD600 not fully perform with T1? Because some told me that HD600 perform better with dedicated desktop amp. What I love about T1 is their DAC cum amp. And less power cable on my table.
  


shrimants said:


> I have hd650 and on low gain mode I cannot go past about 35% volume because it gets too loud. Yes, it will drive the piss out of the hd600.


 
 Wow, that's a good news for me. Any words regarding the dark sound headphone with bright sound amp? Balanced or ruin the HD 650 sound?
  


jipan said:


> At first I used 0 gain, but the volume is not enough, so switched to gain 10. Sound quality wise, I found gain 0 sounded more airy and free, than gain 10, but your experience may different.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 What you paired with sir?


----------



## Sarurururu

Good day everyone,
  
 I just ordered my T1 last week and it is on it's way to my doorway. I also took the advice from other members on this thread, foraged a few tubes from ebay. Looking forward to share my impression with you all soon.
 Also I would like to ask for further advice since I know absolutely nothing about tube stuffs (since last 40 years I only dealt with solid state), does tube dampers really work or not?
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 I've googled a few articles but the opinion are quite diverse (some even say those rubber O rings are actually useless since they tend to melt, harden, cheap...etc). I've also found some expensive tube damper (titanium + some voodoo material) on the internet (US$ 28@! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 despite shipping which is enough for me to roll a few more tubes!) 
 Hope anyone with experience on this can give me some advice. Would be much appreciated.


----------



## mink42

Yayy!! Will be awesome to hear your opinions, I'm about to pull the trigger on one as well >.<


----------



## teb1013

sarurururu said:


> Good day everyone,
> 
> I just ordered my T1 last week and it is on it's way to my doorway. I also took the advice from other members on this thread, foraged a few tubes from ebay. Looking forward to share my impression with you all soon.
> Also I would like to ask for further advice since I know absolutely nothing about tube stuffs (since last 40 years I only dealt with solid state), does tube dampers really work or not?:confused_face_2:
> ...




These were discussed in several entries earlier in the thread. There was little evidence that they made the tube sound better but they do help protect the tube socket during frequent tube rolling. Example: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2235#post_9594745


----------



## Sarurururu

teb1013 said:


> These were discussed in several entries earlier in the thread. There was little evidence that they made the tube sound better but they do help protect the tube socket during frequent tube rolling. Example: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2235#post_9594745


 
  
 Hi* teb1013,*
  
 Thanks a lot for the advice, just now I've looked at the website of the company which sell those socket saver, they also have a product call "triode flipper" as well. Any idea what's that for? Your input is much appreciated 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (although likely it gonna cost me spending some money 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) Should I just go for the simple socket saver or the triode flipper?


----------



## Sarurururu

mink42 said:


> Yayy!! Will be awesome to hear your opinions, I'm about to pull the trigger on one as well >.<


 
  
 Hi mink42,
  
 Don't wait for mine, after you mate
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I keep telling myself withhold the urge of pulling the trigger is actually really bad for health


----------



## mink42

Hahahaha that I can attest to. I have several university assignments due in over the next few weeks. The most stressful thing i'm dealing with at the moment is finding a dac/amp lol pretty set on the Aune T1 though, found a local dealer and just sent him an email about extra tubes


----------



## teb1013

sarurururu said:


> Hi *teb1013,*
> 
> Thanks a lot for the advice, just now I've looked at the website of the company which sell those socket saver, they also have a product call "triode flipper" as well. Any idea what's that for? Your input is much appreciated   (although likely it gonna cost me spending some money :atsmile: ) Should I just go for the simple socket saver or the triode flipper?




I'm not an extensive tube roller and don't have either of these. I don't even know if the threads big time rollers like Coil or Salvatore or thread starter Joeq70 use socket savers. As you are just starting out you may want to save the $ and use it for a tube when you see how things work out,


----------



## jipan

Senn HD600. Looks like I'm one of those "dark-side" people 
 Tonality wise, I found Aune T1 + Goldring DR150 (which darker than HD600) more pleasant to listen than Aune T1 + HD600. With HD600 now I usually reducing treble 1-2 click.
  
 Haven't got my paw on other tubes yet, so couldn't say anything about HD600 + T1 + other tubes combination.
 Quote:


diaboliqu3 said:


> What you paired with sir?


----------



## mink42

_[Mod Edit: Please read: http://head-fi.org/a/group-buys]_
  
  
_Oops my bad!_


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Okay guys... Before I place an order, which one do you think more suitable with Aune T1. I think I won't upgrade in shortest time and yet any combination between these are affordable for now. I wish I have extra cash to spend for higher end DAC cum amp.


----------



## aedeau

shrimants said:


> I have hd650 and on low gain mode I cannot go past about 35% volume because it gets too loud. Yes, it will drive the piss out of the hd600.


 
  
 Interesting, I have a pair of Q701s and normally have the volume sitting around 2 o'clock/75% (zero gain) and they're much lower impedance than the hd650s


----------



## shrimants

aedeau said:


> Interesting, I have a pair of Q701s and normally have the volume sitting around 2 o'clock/75% (zero gain) and they're much lower impedance than the hd650s
> :blink:




Impedance alone means nothing. Look at sensitivity.

EDIT: looks like their sensitivity is either 105 or 93. Based on that, i'd say it might just be choice in music or type of technology/driver construction used.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Is it true that Aune T1 have heat issue? Any problem when the tube getting hot that will affect the sound?


----------



## Salvatore

aedeau said:


> Interesting, I have a pair of Q701s and normally have the volume sitting around 2 o'clock/75% (zero gain) and they're much lower impedance than the hd650s


 
  
 I've done some A/B comparisons between K702 anniversaries and HD650 and the HD650 are definitely easier to drive (so it's not all about impedance). I also want to note that in anniversaries the drivers come closer to ear as compared to Q701. Therefore, Q's should be even harder to drive. My volume setting for K702 anniversaries are usually between 40-70% on zero gain (depending on the source).


----------



## Illbetheone

diaboliqu3 said:


> Is it true that Aune T1 have heat issue? Any problem when the tube getting hot that will affect the sound?


 
  
 The unit gets hot (not enough to burn your or anything) and so do most tubes but it doesn't affect the sound. As a matter of fact, I find the tube to sound better once it's "warmed up".


----------



## diaBoliQu3

illbetheone said:


> The unit gets hot (not enough to burn your or anything) and so do most tubes but it doesn't affect the sound. As a matter of fact, I find the tube to sound better once it's "warmed up".


 


> http://www.head-fi.org/products/aune-t1/reviews/9299
> 
> The only thing that concerns me is that after several hours, *both the casing and the tube become incredibly hot and this contributes to distortion that I experience regularly.* I have to unplug the valve regularly, and this raises concerns for me about the longevity of the electronics.


 
  
 Thanks sir... I have the same theory regarding better sound when warmed up. I hope he's the only one face this. Perhaps faulty unit as comment by CoiL...
  


> CoiL 7/19/13 at 10:25am
> I think you might have a faulty unit or tube because when I do long listening sessions or serial watching with different tubes - of course it gets warm and maybe between hot and warm but never incredibly hot like you say. *Also never experienced any problems with "hot" tubes getting distortion. Only bad tubes that I have make distorted & crackly sound. I think the problem is your tube being bad & leaking when it gets hot (contractions between pins and glass make tube leaking). *Get a new tube and reply to this comment.
> Problems like this shouldn`t be cause to stay away from this product! Tubes are fragile and have their own lifetime, this doesn`t make Aune T1 unreliable!


----------



## David164v8

Is the Aune T1 a good match for a pair of Sennheiser 598's? I probably will upgrade to different headphones at some point (most likely a closed pair) but I would like it to sound good for now at least. My music tastes are mostly rock, pretty much no classical or anything.


----------



## teb1013

david164v8 said:


> Is the Aune T1 a good match for a pair of Sennheiser 598's? I probably will upgrade to different headphones at some point (most likely a closed pair) but I would like it to sound good for now at least. My music tastes are mostly rock, pretty much no classical or anything.




They are a great match for the HD558s which use the same driver as the 598s. The Senns work fine with most rock, but remember, these aren't basshead cans and they are open. 




illbetheone said:


> The unit gets hot (not enough to burn your or anything) and so do most tubes but it doesn't affect the sound. As a matter of fact, I find the tube to sound better once it's "warmed up".




Agreed, I use this for hours at a time without it getting too hot to touch the body of the unit. Tubes get hot, but it is easy to avoid touching it (I never installed the plastic guard, but have had no trouble.


----------



## David164v8

teb1013 said:


> They are a great match for the HD558s which use the same driver as the 598s. The Senns work fine with most rock, but remember, these aren't basshead cans and they are open.
> Agreed, I use this for hours at a time without it getting too hot to touch the body of the unit. Tubes get hot, but it is easy to avoid touching it (I never installed the plastic guard, but have had no trouble.


 
  
 Thanks for the reply! Would you recommend any particular tubes? I don't want to spend too much though  I'm reading through this thread and seeing lots of options, but I'm not sure which one would be a good fit for my musical tastes and headphones.


----------



## JoeDoe

I've been missing my T1 since I sold it a few months ago. If anyone with a black T1 would be interested in trading for a Schiit stack, PM me!


----------



## HoboBob

I just got a pair of Philips Miniwatt 7308 SQ Holland and I've a hard time identifying the year they were made.

 Any one of you guys is good with codes?

*Side of tube:* VR2  ΔP0 (orange-ish etched)
*Top: *Looks like 31 J (Written in the same white lettering as the brand)

 What I can come up with is they look like they were made in Holland, Heerlen. Although, they do not look like VR2 (label is 7308 and white and single o-getter), but they are not VR0 (D-getter). They have a o-getter and gold-pins.

 No pics since my girlfriend is off with the only camera I have. Also, sorry if this is not the proper thread. I know that some people here had experience with 7308.

 Thanks in advance.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

joedoe said:


> I've been missing my T1 since I sold it a few months ago. If anyone with a black T1 would be interested in trading for a Schiit stack, PM me!


 
 I read that T1 is similar with Schiit MM but T1 win when come to changing the tube. So as a Shiit MM owner and T1 used o owner, can share some thoughts?


----------



## JoeDoe

^^ Sure. I spent several nights in a row A/Bing the two with my MS2s, HD580s, and W4s. With the stock 6922 tube, they were so close that I could discern no credible differences other than the required volume levels for each. I also had an Amperex Gold Globe tube which added a little warmth over the MM stack, but that was more of a change in color rather than an upgrade in quality.


----------



## teb1013

david164v8 said:


> Thanks for the reply! Would you recommend any particular tubes? I don't want to spend too much though  I'm reading through this thread and seeing lots of options, but I'm not sure which one would be a good fit for my musical tastes and headphones.




I use an Amperex 7308 which is totally satisfying for my tastes, but it cost $50 for driver grade and might not satisfy your musical tastes. My best advise is to read Joeq70's thread starter and the included information from Salvatore. Do an in thread search for your musical preferences.


----------



## Salvatore

hobobob said:


> I just got a pair of Philips Miniwatt 7308 SQ Holland and I've a hard time identifying the year they were made.
> 
> Any one of you guys is good with codes?
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi there, let's start cracking!
  
 The first three letter code (VR2) is the tube type / batch code and the second one is the production code (delta P0).
  
 VR = tube type = E188CC = *7308*
 2 = the *batch* number
 delta = factory symbol = *Philips, Heerlen*
 Production date = P0 = ???
  
 Now the actual date code seems to be different of what I've encountered so far. Usually it consists of one letter and two numbers, from which the first number indicates the production year, the letter the month (A= Jan, B= Feb...) and the last number the week of the month.
  
 Example: I66 Δ0K4

 I6 = ECC83
 I66 = ECC83 of construction #6
 Δ = Made in Heerlen/Holland
 0K4 = Made 1970, November (K), 4th week
  
 You can also see here that the production code has a factory symbol + 3 letter date code: http://www.ebay.com/itm/E188CC-7308-Philips-Miniwatt-SQ-tube-Rohre-Valvola-NOS-strong-/300932382338?pt=R%C3%B6hren&hash=item4610f7be82
  
 So are you sure that the letter is P and that there are only those two symbols (P0) after the factory symbol? The month codes only go from A to L. It would indeed help if you could take some photos of the tube print and the codes. In the meantime check if you can find similar tubes from here: https://www.tubeworld.com/7308.htm#7308philips It seems that the SQ=premium quality tubes come from 60's and 70's.


----------



## HoboBob

Thanks Salvatore.

 I've a feeling that they are older than the 60's. Maybe Early 50's. If they are using the old code format. December 1950??

 I've seen old D-GEtter Miniwatts SQ like those:
https://www.tubemuseum.org/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Miniwatt-E188CC-SQ-D-GETTER  (Delta0C)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/E88CC-D-Getter-Curved-Philips-Miniwatt-Pair-NOS-NIB-Special-Quality-Goldpins-/251306690354?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3a830bc732 (Delta0D & 0L)

 Although, mine are VR2 with O-getter and not the rare D one. Same stars and same printing, but 7308 instead of E188CC.


----------



## Salvatore

Yeah you're probably right. This would explain the non familiar coding. I think the zero stands for the year and therefore they could indeed be 1950's. Maybe just like you said, the same as those D-getters but with halo getter instead. It's actually the P that throws me off. I really don't know how to interpret that. But please do post some photos after you get the camera back. At least I'm interested to see them.
  
 Oh and how do they sound 
  
 E: Where did you get them and how much you paid for them, if you don't mind me asking.


----------



## HoboBob

Yes, will do. Camera is charging at the moment. Will try to get pics and post them tonight.

 I got the tubes from a collector not too far from where I live (Montreal, Canada). The guy has over 10000 tubes and let go of some from time to time. Sadly, they are not NOS like most of his tubes, but one is in really good shape, lettering -wise, the other is fading. They are both from the same code/year and test Good (around 80).

 I paid a fair price considering that they were close-ish to me and did neither wait for them nor paid for shipping/taxes/duty fees. Each tubes were 95$CAN. Yes, a bit more than more recent NOS, but could not resist the temptation.

 As far as they sound, I've only used them for about 30min so far. Will give steadier impressions later this week 

 ----
 And for the P code, as far as I understand the code (which is new to me), it would stand for December, in 'old' code. Maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## shrimants

joedoe said:


> I've been missing my T1 since I sold it a few months ago. If anyone with a black T1 would be interested in trading for a Schiit stack, PM me!




Ugh I just sold mine....


----------



## David164v8

Just bought it in black  Should be here on Thursday, it has stock tubes which I'll try by themselves with my 598's before getting into some different ones


----------



## MrEleventy

diaboliqu3 said:


> I read that T1 is similar with Schiit MM but T1 win when come to changing the tube. So as a Shiit MM owner and T1 used o owner, can share some thoughts?



I've owned both the MM and T1 at the same time. I've done a small AB comparison between the two where I tried different tubes (6922EH, Amperex 6dj8 Orange Globe, Telefunken PCC189) and the findings are similar to JoeDoe's. 

Dac : Modi
Amps : T1(amp portion via RCA in), Magni, Darkvoice 336se & Objective2

Dac : Aune T1
Amps : Self, Magni, Darkvoice 336se & Objective2

Overall, I found the dacs to perform pretty similar, like JoeDoe's finding. With the 6922EH & TFK PCC189, they perform very much like the Modi (Excluding 6922EH's weird oval shaped soundstage). Both are bright and detailed but the T1 is slightly smoother in the treble region and less grainy and artificial sounding. It's very slight but it was noticeable enough for me with my hps (DT880s). In the end, the T1 is just a better option. It performs similarly and it's "upgradeable". I sold the MM stack. I thought about keeping just the Modi to have a SS dac but I didn't feel that it was worth holding onto when I was never/rarely going to use it just because I wanted the option available.


----------



## HoboBob

salvatore said:


> Yeah you're probably right. This would explain the non familiar coding. I think the zero stands for the year and therefore they could indeed be 1950's. Maybe just like you said, the same as those D-getters but with halo getter instead. It's actually the P that throws me off. I really don't know how to interpret that. But please do post some photos after you get the camera back. At least I'm interested to see them.
> 
> Oh and how do they sound
> 
> E: Where did you get them and how much you paid for them, if you don't mind me asking.


 

 Here are the pics I've taken. I did my best to capture the codes. And since I'm new here, I can't upload yet. Hoping it helps and the pictures are ok.
  
 http://tinypic.com/r/jv6vyw/5
 http://tinypic.com/r/10p55x4/5
 http://tinypic.com/r/3005x5j/5
 http://tinypic.com/r/2djo5jp/5
 http://tinypic.com/r/308h3zn/5


----------



## Salvatore

hobobob said:


> Here are the pics I've taken.


 
  
 Awesome pics, thanks for sharing. Very nice silk screening and cool 50's military looks.  Worth owning just for the looks, but I bet they also sound fantastic.


----------



## HoboBob

salvatore said:


> Awesome pics, thanks for sharing. Very nice silk screening and cool 50's military looks.  Worth owning just for the looks, but I bet they also sound fantastic.


 
  
 Thank you!

 Yes, so far they sound really great. I feel like it's a waste using them only to be pushed through a DAC and would feel more loved in an amp . But I can't complain. I'd love to compare them with other tubes in the same level of quality/sound, but I only have the 6922EH and a Gold Lion... not really fair imo. One day, I'll grab an Orange Globe if I find an old one.

 Here what the guy had when I went. Maybe you could point me the tubes that would work great with AuneT1 and DT880:
-Beckman U.S.A
 -Brimar England (I know that they are not great with the T1 according to reviews. Too clear and not helping the Aune at all)
 -RCA Holland (don't have picture and no codes)
 -Admiral Holland
 -GE Electronic Tube GT. Britain
 -Marconi Radiotron Germany
 -Xaerix (???)


----------



## Salvatore

hobobob said:


> I feel like it's a waste using them only to be pushed through a DAC and would feel more loved in an amp
> 
> Here what the guy had when I went. Maybe you could point me the tubes that would work great with AuneT1 and DT880:
> -Beckman U.S.A
> ...


 
  
 Yes it's true that pushing such old gems through tube DAC is somewhat wasted potential. If they are matched pair you should try them in Lyr or something similar  I have AKG K702 (anniversaries) which have similar sound signature than the DT880. Bright, analytical and detailed. With such cans I don't recommend too bright sounding tubes. I think those British warm sounding tubes could have great synergy with DT880. There's been both positive and negative reviews about the Brimar tubes, but I have no personal experiences with them. It was *Coil* who didn't like his Brimars, but *toschek* loved his CV2492 (http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/975#post_9210498) (and he really rolled some high end tubes during the time he owned T1 and Lyr). Those GE tubes should be similar to Mullard tubes and should be worth owning if the price is right. All the other brands here are not familiar to me. I personally like orange prints because they are on the warm side and still manage to maintain detailed full open sound stage with natural positioning. Rocket logos and such are also good if you like more forward analogue sound, but the trade off is that they lack the resolution. Amperex 7308 PQ is hands down my best tube, but those cheaper Amperex 6DJ8 tubes are not too far away. With T1 or any other tube DAC I recommend people to concentrate on the price over performance ratio rather than paying premium for the premium (check out my budget king tubes from this post: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/1965#post_9485030).


----------



## MrEleventy

hobobob said:


> Thank you!
> 
> 
> Yes, so far they sound really great. I feel like it's a waste using them only to be pushed through a DAC and would feel more loved in an amp . But I can't complain. I'd love to compare them with other tubes in the same level of quality/sound, but I only have the 6922EH and a Gold Lion... not really fair imo. One day, I'll grab an Orange Globe if I find an old one.
> ...







salvatore said:


> Yes it's true that pushing such old gems through tube DAC is somewhat wasted potential. If they are matched pair you should try them in Lyr or something similar  I have AKG K702 (anniversaries) which have similar sound signature than the DT880. Bright, analytical and detailed. With such cans I don't recommend too bright sounding tubes. I think those British warm sounding tubes could have great synergy with DT880. There's been both positive and negative reviews about the Brimar tubes, but I have no personal experiences with them. It was *Coil* who didn't like his Brimars, but *toschek* loved his CV2492 (http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/975#post_9210498) (and he really rolled some high end tubes during the time he owned T1 and Lyr). Those GE tubes should be similar to Mullard tubes and should be worth owning if the price is right. All the other brands here are not familiar to me. I personally like orange prints because they are on the warm side and still manage to maintain detailed full open sound stage with natural positioning. Rocket logos and such are also good if you like more forward analogue sound, but the trade off is that they lack the resolution. Amperex 7308 PQ is hands down my best tube, but those cheaper Amperex 6DJ8 tubes are not too far away. With T1 or any other tube DAC I recommend people to concentrate on the price over performance ratio rather than paying premium for the premium (check out my budget king tubes from this post: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/1965#post_9485030).




I own a pair of DT880/600s and yeah, what Salvatore said. Definitely anything warm in the mids is what you want to pair it with. I stopped with the Amperex Orange Globe but I'd imagine the 7308 to be better. How much better is going to depend on your satisfaction with the OGs. It's $10-20 vs $50 so ymmv. Even with the OGs, you still get detailed and sparkle in the highs and clarity is still great. You get slightly warmer mids and it's balances out the sound more. T1 + OG is a great pairing with the 880s.


----------



## JoeDoe

Has anyone in this thread compared the T1s performance to the LD Mk 1+?


----------



## CoiL

salvatore said:


> hobobob said:
> 
> 
> > I feel like it's a waste using them only to be pushed through a DAC and would feel more loved in an amp
> ...


 
  
 Yes, all Brimar ECC88`s that I have are total crap imho. Very tiny and narrow soundstage, bright sounding, lacking mids, bass, separation, air etc. Only good Brimars that I have are two PCC189 and they are good with old sounding rock etc. Nice warm sounding tubes. Personally I just don`t use them and they are going for sell.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Guys, I'm thinking of pairing Corsair SP2500 to my Aune T1. What cable should I get? Worth it to get canare RCA? And thus gold platted USB cable that up t 480mbps really will change the sound if compared to stock USB cable?
  
 Corsair SP2500 speaker:
 https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1875491/all


----------



## penmarker

I'm not convinced as to USB cables making a difference in sound, but others have reported otherwise. Regardless, the Aune T1 is no high end unit so it would be a better investment if you get yourself a better amp+dac than to get a higher quality USB cable.
  
 That speaker has both 3.5mm and RCA input, so you can get yourself an RCA cable to connect with the RCA out of the Aune T1. How does that speaker sound anyway? For RM850, it better be good


----------



## diaBoliQu3

penmarker said:


> I'm not convinced as to USB cables making a difference in sound, but others have reported otherwise. Regardless, the Aune T1 is no high end unit so it would be a better investment if you get yourself a better amp+dac than to get a higher quality USB cable.
> 
> That speaker has both 3.5mm and RCA input, so you can get yourself an RCA cable to connect with the RCA out of the Aune T1. How does that speaker sound anyway? For RM850, it better be good


 
 Actually that's the MRSP. Now sold at RM679. Honestly, it does sound good but it's not that great. I was trying to sell mine because somehow my ear upgrade it self after I join audiophile gathering locally, I fall in love with Beyer T 5 P and T 70 P. Since that day my ear very analytical. My speaker high sometime hurt my ears, bass have unsatisfied impact, mids just okay level. And my FA-003 sound like very small, I can notice that the instrument separation wayyyy beyond what I found with beyer.
  
 Intend to get Hivi Swan speaker and few other famous line up but I can't audition them because no audio shop. Decided to upgrade my head-fi experience by getting HD600 and Aune T1. Will funding for bottle head crack. The problem is I never heard HD600 too but due to the positive comment and review, I take my risk.
  
 BTW, the seller claim the USB cable will make Aune T1 sound thicker and darker.
 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=722385891109813&set=a.719522854729450.1073741837.576987555649648&type=3&src=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-prn2%2F1270845_722385891109813_963852907_o.jpg&smallsrc=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-prn2%2F1234720_722385891109813_963852907_n.jpg&size=1500%2C1500
  
 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=722388167776252&set=a.719522854729450.1073741837.576987555649648&type=3&src=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash3%2F1264254_722388167776252_1278129153_o.jpg&smallsrc=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash3%2F555413_722388167776252_1278129153_n.jpg&size=1490%2C1500


----------



## CoiL

Athough I bought properly shielded and shorter USB cable for my Aune T1 I consider "high-end" USB cable changing sound signature a big BS. Only thing I would do is +5Vsb pin cutoff mod to reduce interference that may come from PC and use properly shielded cable.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> Athough I bought properly shielded and shorter USB cable for my Aune T1 I consider "high-end" USB cable changing sound signature a big BS. *Only thing I would do is +5Vsb pin cutoff mod to reduce interference that may come from PC and use properly shielded cable.*


 
 Can describe more regarding the bolded parts? Well, I never USB but I did tried interconnect and the cable indeed improve the listening experience which I don't think worth it since I'm not going to analyze but to enjoy the music. Unless there's significant improvement, I guess I will not think twice to spend my money. Hopefully able to get my self Crack sooner.


----------



## CoiL

Since Aune T1 does not draw any power from USB, +5Vsb pin is not needed and may be cut off from the PC end to reduce grounding/loop/interference that may be caused by PC hardware circuit.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> Since Aune T1 does not draw any power from USB, +5Vsb pin is not needed and may be cut off from the PC end to reduce grounding/loop/interference that may be caused by PC hardware circuit.


 
 Have you tried? How's the improvement then... You mean messing with the PCB right? Oh my....


----------



## MrEleventy

diaboliqu3 said:


> Have you tried? How's the improvement then... You mean messing with the PCB right? Oh my....:blink:


 No, he meant the usb male plug on the end of the cable.


----------



## CoiL

diaboliqu3 said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Since Aune T1 does not draw any power from USB, +5Vsb pin is not needed and may be cut off from the PC end to reduce grounding/loop/interference that may be caused by PC hardware circuit.
> ...


 
  
 Yes, I did it as soon I got my new cable and I didn`t compare. I meant the end of the USB cable not PCB. It`s easy to do.


----------



## manufelices

What do you think about these?

- http://bit.ly/1eXAqpk
-


----------



## diaBoliQu3

mreleventy said:


> No, he meant the usb male plug on the end of the cable.


 
 Thanks sir... I thought inside the PCB since what's he's explain sound complicated. New kid here.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> Yes, I did it as soon I got my new cable and I didn`t compare. I meant the end of the USB cable not PCB. It`s easy to do.


 
 Can guide or give link how to do that? I google and it led me to PC power supply pin.


----------



## CoiL

First link in google: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB


----------



## Salvatore

manufelices said:


> What do you think about these?


 
  
 You have a reflector on that link and EH in that picture. Reflectors are not too highly appraised (low resolution = feels like you have a blanket muffling the sound). Rockets seem to be better if you're into forward intimate analogue sound. Electro Harmonix is the latest stock tube that comes with T1. Plenty of impressions on that one here.


----------



## manufelices

Thanks a lot! Well, I prefer defined and clear sound. Right now I have mi Aune T1 with an AMPEREX WHITE LABEL 6DJ8 ECC88  1963  + AKG K550 and it sounds better. Anyway, could you recommend me a better one?


----------



## Salvatore

manufelices said:


> Thanks a lot! Well, I prefer defined and clear sound. Right now I have mi Aune T1 with an AMPEREX WHITE LABEL 6DJ8 ECC88  1963  + AKG K550 and it sounds better. Anyway, could you recommend me a better one?


 
  
 If it's defined and clear you're after then I suggest to stay away from reflector. 6922EH is ok tube but I think it will only be a downgrade from your white label. I also have K550's and they can sound quite piercing at times. I think Amperex 6DJ8 (I have 70's orange labels) has good synergy with these cans because they are on the mellow side, but you could also try something with even smoother upper mids. Ultron 7ES8 does this but seems to be quite hard to find. If you like the imaging of your white label then I think you're pretty nicely set now. The next obvious step would be amperex 7308 but they are quite expensive.


----------



## manufelices

Thanks!


----------



## MrEleventy

I have a Telefunken (pcc189) that matches the desc of sound you're after, it doesn't color the sound much at all, very neutral but very clear and a nice soundstage.


----------



## hojomojo96

mreleventy said:


> I have a Telefunken (pcc189) that matches the desc of sound you're after, it doesn't color the sound much at all, very neutral but very clear and a nice soundstage.


 
  
 is there somewhere I could get one other than ebay?


----------



## teb1013

salvatore said:


> If it's defined and clear you're after then I suggest to stay away from reflector. 6922EH is ok tube but I think it will only be a downgrade from your white label. I also have K550's and they can sound quite piercing at times. I think Amperex 6DJ8 (I have 70's orange labels) has good synergy with these cans because they are on the mellow side, but you could also try something with even smoother upper mids. Ultron 7ES8 does this but seems to be quite hard to find. If you like the imaging of your white label then I think you're pretty nicely set now. The next obvious step would be amperex 7308 but they are quite expensive.




The 7308 is available from Upscale Audio for $50 driver grade, which works perfectly with the T1 tube buffer and sounds great. For those not in the US I gather that Upscale charges a huge amount for shipping.


----------



## MrEleventy

hojomojo96 said:


> is there somewhere I could get one other than ebay?


 Don't know, I picked up a pair here on the fs threads a while ago. Maybe give that a try.


----------



## ProjectDx

Hi guys,
  
 My first post here. Just bought an Aune T1. I'm eager to get into tube rolling and going by Salvatore's recommendation I am interested in this Amperex PQ 7308 White Label. 
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Amperex-7308-Goldpins-Stereo-Tube-VR5-49-Results-7220-6630/400562651747?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D1478755386502793139%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D390662561435%26#ht_559wt_1164
  
 I am however, quite confused with the test results. *Results= 7220/6630. *What exactly does this mean and is the tube any good?
  
 I do want to buy from a reputable tube seller but being from Australia, the shipping price is crazy! We're talking over $30US to ship a tube here, so it rules out a lot of the sites. I am also looking to buy an Amperex Orange Globe A Frame, but I can't find it anywhere! Quartz Acoustic are out of them and they don't have any Amperex PQ 7308 at the moment either.
  
 Any help with acquiring these tubes would be great appreciated! Thanks!


----------



## Sarurururu

projectdx said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> My first post here. Just bought an Aune T1. I'm eager to get into tube rolling and going by Salvatore's recommendation I am interested in this Amperex PQ 7308 White Label.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Porject DX,
  
 I just got my T1 fleshly out of the box as it arrived this morning. When I first plugged it in, I thought the sound wasn't that impressive (comparing with my Fiio E7) until... I switched the stock one to an Amperex Orange Globe. The difference is night and day I promise!
  
 Mine Orange Globe I got it from ebay, not NOS though but somehow it's stamped made in W. German rather than Holland or US. I don't know if it's fake or not (since I'm new to tubes
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





) but the tube itself looks vintage to me and the most important thing is it sounds "real" to my ears
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. In fact, if anyone can give me some info about this specific tube that would be much appreciated . (Code stamped on tube: ---Y---
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, 0-22) 
  

  

  

  
 Mine cost US$15 something and shipping is US$12.75 from US to New Zealand. The seller ID is "generation-gap", might be worth to take a look. Guess you just have to be patient and keep scanning through pages and pages and pages... on ebay. Hope this helps, enjoy


----------



## ProjectDx

After 2 days of searching around I've finally bought my first tube!
  
*Orange Global Label Amperex 6DJ8 / ECC88 Tube*
  
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/One-New-Orange-Global-Label-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-Tube-By-Philips-of-Holland-/370900472338?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item565b641212
  
 I couldn't find the A-Frame version that was too hard. Hope this will be good, cost about $40US all up. 
  
 If anyone sees any specials for Amperex 7308, gimme a holla !


----------



## Salvatore

projectdx said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> My first post here. Just bought an Aune T1. I'm eager to get into tube rolling and going by Salvatore's recommendation I am interested in this Amperex PQ 7308 White Label.
> 
> ...


 
  
*Amperex 7308 Goldpins  Stereo Tube "VR5 #49"*
*Tested on a A Hickok 6000A  Micromhos *
*NOS = 5500/5500*
*Min=  3300/3300*
*Results= 7220/6630*
  
 I'm no pro, but they are the conductance readings for the triodes. They should be higher than the min values for the tube to be any good. If they are higher than the NOS values they can be, but not necessarily, real NOS tubes. This particular tube seems to measure strong. Good measurements don't, however, guarantee that the tube is working and I've had my share of tubes that tests good but either doesn't work at all or only the other channel is working.
  
 I'm also interested of the production code. Not sure why there is # instead of *. My PQ has a star which indicates New York. Finally if you look through the product pictures you can see that there is small crack of some sort above the PQ logo. This seems to be legit seller with 100% reviews and 30 day guarantee so I'm sure the seller will offer refund if you're not happy with the purchase. For this price I would also consider the driver grade from upscale.
  
 Few links containing info about the tube measurements and such:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/gds/Why-Vacuum-Tubes-that-test-good-can-sometimes-be-BAD-/10000000003828897/g.html
 http://www.radiolaguy.com/info/TubeTesting.htm
 http://www.radiolaguy.com/info/Mutual-Emission.htm
 http://www.tubeaudiostore.com/tubmatdem.html
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tube_tester
  


projectdx said:


> After 2 days of searching around I've finally bought my first tube!
> *Orange Global Label Amperex 6DJ8 / ECC88 Tube*
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/One-New-Orange-Global-Label-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-Tube-By-Philips-of-Holland-/370900472338?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item565b641212
> I couldn't find the A-Frame version that was too hard. Hope this will be good, cost about $40US all up.


 
  
 Don't worry about the A-frame. This tube in the link is real OG with globe visible (I would still check the production codes). My A-frames, for example, are newer and don't actually have any globe logo (therefore I call them orange prints). A-frame should be less susceptible to microphonics, but that's not really a problem with the audio equipment we are using.


----------



## ProjectDx

Yes I am a little confused with the readings. What are the two different readings in the results section? Do we go by the first figure or the second figure? Tried to do a google search and couldn't find anything. I did see what looked like a crack but dismissed it as a mark. I will probably give this 7308 a miss just to be on the safe side. If I'm going to spend this much money I don't wanna have doubts.

I want to buy a tube from upscale but the shipping costs a fortune ! Do you know any other resellers that have international friendly prices to Australia? I'll also check out the links you provided.

I've got an offer in for the Russian rocket tube so will looking to get that too for comparison. I've read your impressions heaps of times, thanks for sharing your insight. It's really helped with deciding on my purchases.


----------



## Salvatore

projectdx said:


> Do we go by the first figure or the second figure?
> 
> Do you know any other resellers that have international friendly prices to Australia?
> 
> I've got an offer in for the Russian rocket tube so will looking to get that too for comparison. I've read your impressions heaps of times, thanks for sharing your insight. It's really helped with deciding on my purchases.


 
  
 Both figures. Quote from the first link I sent you: "_If the person selling and testing these tubes only gives you one number as the test result, they are only testing one of the two triodes, or only half of the tube. One triode could even be dead. You also want the two triodes to test within a few percent of each other, such as 95/98._"
  
 Just keep on browsing ebay and quartzacoustic and you'll might find good deals from time to time. I wouldn't even be too worried about the 7308. Just take small steps and enjoy the OG first (see if it's worthy improvement / different from your earlier tubes and plan your future purchases from there). I stopped buying tubes long time ago and now I'm just enjoying music. It takes long time to burn all of my spare tubes  Now it doesn't even matter which tube I have on as long as it's something decent.
  
 Rocket is fine as long as you don't overpay. Best bargains come from Russia (watch out for the notoriously long delivery times though). Glad I've been able to help you. Have fun with your T1!


----------



## ProjectDx

Yeah I read the links after I made the post, fully understood now.

Think I've been fully absorbed with trying to buy an Amperex 7308 white label ! Maybe as you said, I should wait to hear the OG first. I saw an Amperex 7308 JAN green label but after some further reading it doesn't seem as good as the white/orange ones. I should be receiving the T1 soon and can't wait !


----------



## wgkwgk

Hi guys,
  
 I've been threatening to start some T1 tube rolling and stumbled on to your conversation regarding changing the balance of the T1.  I followed your instructions but I do not see a device name "Aune T1" in the control panel.    Control Panel, Hardware and Sound, Sound, "Select a playback device below to modify its settings."   The icons that are not greyed out are "Digital Audio (S/PDIF, High Definition Audio Device Ready" and "SPDIF Interface USB Audio Device Default Device."  The latter has a green check mark next to it.  I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium. 
  
 Do I have something screwed up???
  
 Thanks in advance.


----------



## teb1013

projectdx said:


> Yeah I read the links after I made the post, fully understood now.
> 
> Think I've been fully absorbed with trying to buy an Amperex 7308 white label ! Maybe as you said, I should wait to hear the OG first. I saw an Amperex 7308 JAN green label but after some further reading it doesn't seem as good as the white/orange ones. I should be receiving the T1 soon and can't wait !




I have the green label and love it. I have no idea how it would compare with the white and orange. The owner of Upscale Audio claims that there is no difference, but I am sure that some of our tube experts would disagree. All I know is that the difference between other tubes was hard for me to appreciate. The Amperex 7308 JAN green (dated 1968) was the first tube that totally stood out with soundstage and musicality. It remains my favorite tube.

Hope you enjoy your T1, let us know your impressions.


----------



## Salvatore

teb1013 said:


> I have the green label and love it. I have no idea how it would compare with the white and orange. The owner of Upscale Audio claims that there is no difference, but I am sure that some of our tube experts would disagree. All I know is that the difference between other tubes was hard for me to appreciate. The Amperex 7308 JAN green (dated 1968) was the first tube that totally stood out with soundstage and musicality. It remains my favorite tube.


 
  
 I doubt there will be any major differences between different color variants. I guess it's more about the collectibles value. Others want those JAN tubes and others USN navy tubes etc. In the end they all have been designed for military applications and they should be top quality.


----------



## Sarurururu

Hi guys,
  
 I just have 4 Russian Rockets (claimed  NOS, military spec
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





, Code:6H1n, 1-74) arrived, but all of them have different levels of distortion
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, L/R channel is balance though. After running them on my T1 for 10 mins, the distortion got improved slightly. Can anyone please tell me if this is normal or they're basically doomed
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




? (I'm newbie to tubes
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). Much appreciated.


----------



## Inevitability

wgkwgk said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I've been threatening to start some T1 tube rolling and stumbled on to your conversation regarding changing the balance of the T1.  I followed your instructions but I do not see a device name "Aune T1" in the control panel.    Control Panel, Hardware and Sound, Sound, "Select a playback device below to modify its settings."   The icons that are not greyed out are "Digital Audio (S/PDIF, High Definition Audio Device Ready" and "SPDIF Interface USB Audio Device Default Device."  The latter has a green check mark next to it.  I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium.
> 
> ...


 
 Hi wgkwgk....so, connect your Aune and press on the icon volume; there double click on the icon of the device and a window with the device properties will be opened....there, go to the third tab from the left and there is a "Balance" button.


----------



## Inevitability

sarurururu said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I just have 4 Russian Rockets (claimed  NOS, military spec
> 
> ...


 
 They really looks like the ones i've just bought...If i'm not in error they are 6N1P; as stated in the page of the ebay seller they're not a direct replacement for 6922/6DJ8....etc because they work with a different (higher) tension. In fact I experienced the same degree of distortion but i was expecting it.
 This is the table with the tension and current values (taken from the seller's page)
  

 IMPORTANT!! It can not replace in all times a 6DJ8 etc... Especially on a rather low tension, for intance about 90V (or lower) works the 6N1P not good or even not at all. On tensions above 150V, if the idle current is correct this tube can give very good results.

 
  *6DJ8*
    *7308*
   *ECC88*
 *E88CC*
 *6922*
 *6N1P*
 *E188CC*
  Vh
 6,3
 6,3
 6,3
 6,3
 6,3
 V
 Ih
 0,3
 0,3
 0,3
 *0,6*
 0,335
 A
 Va
 90
 90
 100
 *250*
 100
 V
 Ia
 15
 15
 15
 *7,5*
 15
 mA
 -Vg1
 1.3
  1.5
 *4.5*
  V
 S
 12.5
 12.5
 12.5
 *4.4*
 12.5
 mA/V
 Âµ
 33
 33
 33
 *35*
 33
  Ri
 2.64
 2.64
 2.64
 *4.4*
 2.64
 k Ohm
 Req.
 300
 300
 300
  250
 Ohm
 Va max.
 130
 220
 220
 *300*
 250
 V
 Ik max.
 20
  20
 25
 22
 mA
 Pa max.
 1.8
 2.0 / 1.5
 2.0 / 1.5
  2.0 / 1.65
 W
 Rg1 max.
 1.0
 1.0
 1.0
 1.0
 1.0
 M Ohm


----------



## Sarurururu

Hi Inevitability,
  
 Thanks for the reply mate, much appreciated.
  
 Well, I just got a reply from the seller, he also said it should be equivalent to 6N1P as well, but in fact it doesn't work out on my T1. So in the future if anyone wanna give it a try just bare this in mind. Lucky the tubes are inexpensive at all, lesson learnt.
  
 All 4 of mine can't even produce normal sound, hopefully your lot will be fine


----------



## Salvatore

My rockets are 6N23P (rocket logo only) and they work just fine. I would always try to get refund if the tubes are not working as intended.


----------



## wgkwgk

Got it.  I was concerned that since I didn't see "Aune T1" it may have not been properly installed.  Many thanks!


----------



## Inevitability

salvatore said:


> My rockets are 6N23P (rocket logo only) and they work just fine. I would always try to get refund if the tubes are not working as intended.


 
  
 Well, actually it is normal that they don't work with the Aune T1 (and the seller explicitly wrote it in the tubes' page) because of their different working tension (they are 6N1P not 6N23P; I own a pair of reflektor 6N23P and they work fine with T1). So he can send them back because they are not the tubes he was looking for (and me too XD) but not because they are faulty.
 Anyway i'm not asking a refund; they are in good condition and the markings are clearly visible (date, code and the two logos).
 Who knows? Maybe I'll need them in the future for another amplifier


----------



## Salvatore

inevitability said:


> Well, actually it is normal that they don't work with the Aune T1 (and the seller explicitly wrote it in the tubes' page) because of their different working tension (they are 6N1P not 6N23P; I own a pair of reflektor 6N23P and they work fine with T1).


 
  
 We should probably mention this in the list of supported tubes.
  


inevitability said:


> Maybe I'll need them in the future for another amplifier


 
  
 Planning on upgrading to Lyr?


----------



## Inevitability

salvatore said:


> We should probably mention this in the list of supported tubes.
> 
> 
> Planning on upgrading to Lyr?


 
  
 yes, good idea  . With such a similar name is easy to get the wrong tube. In fact i'd like to get an upgrade; I'll keep using the Aune T1 as DAC and I'll buy a tube amplifier but i'm not sure about this. I was thinking about the Little Dot MK III, the DarkVoice 336se and the Schiit Valhalla (but i've read the last one has a cold, not so tubey, sound). Anyway i'm not going to do this now; maybe by the end of the year or even later.
  
 P.S:What about Lyr? does it have a warmer sound than the little brother?


----------



## MrEleventy

The thing that I like about the Darkvoice 336 is that tube rolling is "cheaper". You're not pressured to buy matched pairs.  Just my quick .02.


----------



## Salvatore

inevitability said:


> P.S:What about Lyr? does it have a warmer sound than the little brother?


 
  
 I was just wondering since some T1 users here upgraded to Lyr. I can't really tell whether Lyr is any warmer than Valhalla, but if and when you upgrade please post your impressions about tube rolling in T1 vs in the new amp.


----------



## Inevitability

mreleventy said:


> The thing that I like about the Darkvoice 336 is that tube rolling is "cheaper". You're not pressured to buy matched pairs.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Good point! +1 to Darkvoice 


salvatore said:


> I was just wondering since some T1 users here upgraded to Lyr. I can't really tell whether Lyr is any warmer than Valhalla, but if and when you upgrade please post your impressions about tube rolling in T1 vs in the new amp.


 
  
 Actually Lyr is above my budget now, that's why I looked at those chinese amplifiers. But in the near future I could even go for Lyr, without trying some cheaper amp first.
 In that case, I will surely share my impressions


----------



## hojomojo96

Does anyone know a neutral sounding, transparent tube with a wide soundstage that is widely/cheaply available? All I could find was the Telefunken PCC189, but they don't seem to be very common.


----------



## Sarurururu

hojomojo96 said:


> Does anyone know a neutral sounding, transparent tube with a wide soundstage that is widely/cheaply available? All I could find was the Telefunken PCC189, but they don't seem to be very common.


 
  
 Amperex Orange Globe (6DJ8, US$15) sounds good to me in terms of separation and soundstage, but not sure how wide the soundstage you want. Comparing with Tungsram PCC189, Amperex is wider IMO. Also I just bought a piece of Telefunken PCC189 and pair of Bugle Boy this morning, might share some impression once they arrive
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## G600

I'm waiting some 6n23p and 6n27p for this nice amp.
 Can't stand the wait !!!
  
 Thanks guys for the detailed reviews of tubes association.


----------



## CoiL

Quote:
  


salvatore said:


> inevitability said:
> 
> 
> > Well, actually it is normal that they don't work with the Aune T1 (and the seller explicitly wrote it in the tubes' page) because of their different working tension (they are 6N1P not 6N23P; I own a pair of reflektor 6N23P and they work fine with T1).
> ...


 
 Removed 6N1P from you linked post (I edited my post), just in case, but if I recall correctly, I`ve read ok-working-status about 6N1P tubes with T1. 


g600 said:


> I'm waiting some 6n23p and 6n27p for this nice amp.
> Can't stand the wait !!!
> 
> Thanks guys for the detailed reviews of tubes association.


 
  
 Interested about 6N27P impressions. It`s quite getting-rare & expensive tube.


----------



## G600

No problem.
  
 It's a 6n27p From Reflektor, 1971.
  
 Please allow 1 month for shipping delay, plus some hours of breaking in...


----------



## CoiL

Then it should be quite similiar sounding to 6N23P reflector but you can enlighten us if your 6N23P is also reflector. 6N27P are one of the most appreciated russian tubes as I know. Really intresting would be comparing them both against 6N23P rocket.
 Personally, I only have 6N23P reflector, 6922EH and 2x 6922 Sovtek`s. I prefer 6922`s to 6N23P reflector due to "muffled" sound latter has imho.


----------



## hojomojo96

sarurururu said:


> Amperex Orange Globe (6DJ8, US$15) sounds good to me in terms of separation and soundstage, but not sure how wide the soundstage you want. Comparing with Tungsram PCC189, Amperex is wider IMO. Also I just bought a piece of Telefunken PCC189 and pair of Bugle Boy this morning, might share some impression once they arrive
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 I've read that the Orange Globe's color the sound though, I'm looking for something as flat as possible  Thank you!


----------



## G600

@ CoiL, my 6n23p is a rocket one, not a reflektor.


----------



## Salvatore

coil said:


> if I recall correctly, I`ve read ok-working-status about 6N1P tubes with T1.


 
  
 I think it was tommo. He had some distortion in the beginning, but it disappeared after some burn in.


----------



## Mannythebearpig

I have Sennheiser 600HD in the mail and need a decient amp/dac. This one in particular seems promising but i know nothing about the tubes. Is the tube it comes with decent or do i need to upgrade the tube out of the box. Is there a better option for the 600s in the 200 price range.


----------



## Sarurururu

mannythebearpig said:


> I have Sennheiser 600HD in the mail and need a decient amp/dac. This one in particular seems promising but i know nothing about the tubes. Is the tube it comes with decent or do i need to upgrade the tube out of the box. Is there a better option for the 600s in the 200 price range.


 
  
 Hi mate,
  
 Mine came with a EH6922 which is a contemporary made tube I believe and it's actually reasonably good in terms of overall performance (At least it's better than my Tungsram PCC189 IMHO
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). I've paired my Senn HD25 II with the T1 and the result is very satisfying as HD25 is not that easy to drive. Although HD600 is even harder, but the T1 does have gain control so it might help with that. Another advantage of T1 is it requires only one single tube to be installed so you don't have to worry about paired tubes, especially if you're new to tubes like myself. Regardless of performance of the stock tube, I find rolling tubes is always enjoyable whilst there are tons of affordable options over ebay or the internet. And I do recommend T1 since I can hear a lot of details coming out from my Philips X1 which I never heard before
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## CoiL

sarurururu said:


> mannythebearpig said:
> 
> 
> > I have Sennheiser 600HD in the mail and need a decient amp/dac. This one in particular seems promising but i know nothing about the tubes. Is the tube it comes with decent or do i need to upgrade the tube out of the box. Is there a better option for the 600s in the 200 price range.
> ...


 
 Glad I didn´t buy PCC189 Tungsram. But Tungsram PCC88 is definitely better than 6922EH - tighter & punchier bass and better mids. Soundstage is same or very littlebit larger. 
 Separation is also littlebit better. What`s bad about your PCC189 Tungsram compared against 6922EH?


----------



## Sarurururu

coil said:


> Glad I didn´t buy PCC189 Tungsram. But Tungsram PCC88 is definitely better than 6922EH - tighter & punchier bass and better mids. Soundstage is same or very littlebit larger.
> Separation is also littlebit better. What`s bad about your PCC189 Tungsram compared against 6922EH?


 
 Hi CoiL,
  
 Thank you for your message. Personally I think the Tungsram PCC189 is a bit flat in frequency response, in other words it's kind of boring. However, some people might like it since we all hear differently.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I also find in general PCC189 is cheaper than PCC88 on ebay, not sure if there's any relation to it's performance though. And I have a Telefunken PCC189 coming on it's way, hopefully it won't be as flat
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. (Additional comments: Just got home and did some more A/B amongst OG, 6922EH & PCC189, turns out the Tungsram PCC189 is quite warm and forward with relatively narrow soundstage).
 I do agree with you that the bass in 6922EH is little muffled and loose when I compare with the Orange Globe. Look forward to have more comparison once my other tubes arrive.
 I might give the Tungsram PCC88 a try later, but meanwhile I just have to stop myself from buying more tubes since I've already bought 5 this week.


----------



## CoiL

Hmmm, if Tungsram PCC189 is flat then it really might fit for many. But let me ask what you exactly expect from tube? I mean Amperex OG is already very very good imho, with middle-sized sweetspot soundstage and warm/smooth but sparkly highs and awesome mids. For me it's one of the best tubes (personally I think Ultron SQ 7ES8/PCC189 (Bharat India, gold label) is littlebit better) out of my collection (alongside with Siemens PCC189, Siemens PCC88, Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 & ECC189) for rock/metal/progressive/jazz genres and is one of the best all-arounders. 
 Although Tungsram PCC88 is ok with most genres I can recommend it only for EDM and atmospheric electronic music (note, one with the cuts in the horizontal plate under getter is tinybit better than with flat plate). 
  
 So, for what genres you want your tube to fit?
  
 If EDM & atmospheric electronic music and prefer large soundstage, then my recommendations are JAN Sylvania 6922 & Tungsram PCC88. And personally I still like 6922EH & Sovtek 6922 too, although their bass is sometimes too loose but then again for some music it`s a "bonus".
  
 If you listen basically every genre then my top recommendations are Siemens PCC189, Ultron PCC189 (white label), Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 & ECC189, Amperex OG (GAC coded is with smoother highs and imo better than GAE & GA8), Philips PCC189, Lorenz PCC189, Mullard ECC88.
  
 For rock/metal/progressive/jazz (and imo for classics too due to "live warmness") - Ultron SQ 7ES8/PCC189 (Bharat India, gold label), Amperex OG GAC, Siemens PCC189, Siemens PCC88, Mullard ECC88.
  
 "Special" range is so called "old-sounding" tubes for old rock styles imo. For this "genre" I can recommend Mazda-Belvu PCC189, Brimar PCC189, Mullard PCC189, Valvo PCC88 (old logo).
  
 If I would have to choose only one tube for everything I would probably go for Siemens PCC189 or Ultron PCC189 white label. But thing is, Siemens tends to be pretty expensive (I got mine ridiculously cheap) and Ultron is hard to find but in EU it`s dirt cheap. If you have to exclude those tubes for those reasons, then most widely available and with ok price would be Amperex OG, cheaper option is Philips PCC189. If money isn`t problem - go straight for Amperex 7308 (haven`t heard it yet) or mint condition Amperex OG or Siemens PCC189.
  
 Well, consider that this all is only my personal opinion with my rig, my recommendations would not fit for everyone.


----------



## G600

Thanks CoiL for your detailed review.
 Very, very useful.


----------



## teb1013

CoiL your knowledge is encyclopedic. Your tube collection must be amazing! This is the first reference to Indian tubes I have seen anywhere! Where did you get them?


----------



## Illbetheone

Got my Philips SQ Miniwatt E88CC in last week. This is by far one of my favorite sounding tubes thus far. It compliments all areas of the spectrum perfectly while expanding the soundstage much more over my Russian Rocket logo tube. EDM sounds blissfull with somewhat forward vocals and it rocks my WS99 so hard. I even listened to a bit of rock and classical and liked what I heard as well. I either go for this tube or the Rocket logo tube depending on what mood I am in and if I want more of a "tube sound" or not.
  
 As for PC gaming, I found that this did not impede my ability to hear enviorments within the game at all - unlike my Tungsram tube. If anything, it was able to bring out some of the lesser heard sounds within the game than other tubes. Granted, I was only able to play two games on it; _Batman: Arkham Asylum _and _Medal of Honor_, but I still stand by my endorsement. If you can pick one up for a good price then I highly encourage you to do so - 9/10. I wonder how this will sound compared to the Amperex 7308?
  

  
 By the way, all tube comparisons will be added to my big Aune T1 review as well, which can be found here.


----------



## Salvatore

illbetheone said:


>


 
  
 Congrats! That is one nice looking tube. It seems you already updated this to the info/review post. Good thinking!


----------



## Inevitability

coil said:


> ... but if I recall correctly, I`ve read ok-working-status about 6N1P tubes with T1.


 
  
 So, could they be faulty?


----------



## VincentMayer

Ok, so after having my T1 for 2 & 1/2 weeks and not having any problems, I'd have to say this is probably the best thing I have done since buying my first pair of quality headphones. Can't believe I waited this long. My music just sounds amazing, I loved On The Painted Desert a lot with just my headphones, but now....its hard to put into words how much more amazing it is, just so much more to the music now. The mids and highs are to die for, Cellos and Violins sound fantastic. Its even brought a bit more bass to my AD900s.
  
 Have not been able to tube roll much yet, so far just a* *Genalex Gold Lion. Love the tube, but I do plan to try others as I can get them.
  
 I am super happy with my T1 and glad I got it. Bad thing is its made me want a tube amp along side it, anyone tried the T1 paired with a little dot mk2 or mk3?


----------



## CoiL

teb1013 said:


> CoiL your knowledge is encyclopedic. Your tube collection must be amazing! This is the first reference to Indian tubes I have seen anywhere! Where did you get them?


 
  
 From eBay? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Luck, and got two of these! Someone in this thread also had gold label Ultron SQ.

*Edit:* (User *McKajVah* has Ultron SQ`s)* *: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/1740#post_9396277

 Anyway, Bharat electronics made their tubes with old used Amperex factory gear, as far as I`ve investigated. Note! Keep eye on Trigon relabeled tubes because I`ve read some hints that that relabeled brand also came largely from Bharat India.
  
 Btw, my knowledge is very tiny. All my tubes are bought cheap to just have fun with tube-rolling and test different sounds.
 My main goal was to find cheap widely available good sounding NOS tube to recommend it to others... well... sorry... ended up with about 35 tubes (don`t even remeber exact number  ) and different recommendations for different genres. 
 Thing about my "knowledge" is, that I have no idea how high-end tubes sound.


----------



## hemipowered007

Question for all you t1 users with planars and/or grados. My current setup is pc-fiio e17 as dac- into vintage pioneer sx 727 as the amp- feeding he400s and soon ill have my magnum build complete. So, I'm crazy intrigued by the aune t1, but wonder if it'll be enough of an "upgrade" to the e17 to warrant a purchase. Also worth noting is I don't always run hps through the pioneer, a good amount of time I just use the e17 alone. I'm just curious as to if I could hear a difference seek g as it would add "tube sound". By the way I have yet to hear a tube dac or amp. Thanks in advance!!

Edit: the pioneer also feeds vintage klh model sixes, I was hoping the t1 would add a little warmth to those as well


----------



## isendono

coil said:


> If I would have to choose only one tube for everything I would probably go for Siemens PCC189 or Ultron PCC189 white label. But thing is, Siemens tends to be pretty expensive (I got mine ridiculously cheap) and Ultron is hard to find but in EU it`s dirt cheap. If you have to exclude those tubes for those reasons, then most widely available and with ok price would be Amperex OG, cheaper option is Philips PCC189. If money isn`t problem - go straight for Amperex 7308 (haven`t heard it yet) or mint condition Amperex OG or Siemens PCC189.
> 
> Well, consider that this all is only my personal opinion with my rig, my recommendations would not fit for everyone.


 
 I'm pretty new to this forum and I'm wondering if this item is the same as the siemens pcc189 that you described above? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-PCC189-7ES8-E88CC-6DJ8-6922-SIEMENS-GERMANY-NOS-NIB-100-/141076874358?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item20d8d64476


----------



## robrob

hemipowered007 said:


> Question for all you t1 users with planars and/or grados. My current setup is pc-fiio e17 as dac- into vintage pioneer sx 727 as the amp- feeding he400s and soon ill have my magnum build complete. So, I'm crazy intrigued by the aune t1, but wonder if it'll be enough of an "upgrade" to the e17 to warrant a purchase. Also worth noting is I don't always run hps through the pioneer, a good amount of time I just use the e17 alone. I'm just curious as to if I could hear a difference seek g as it would add "tube sound". By the way I have yet to hear a tube dac or amp. Thanks in advance!!
> 
> Edit: the pioneer also feeds vintage klh model sixes, I was hoping the t1 would add a little warmth to those as well


 
  
 I have an E17 and Aune T1 and have used both with HE-500 headphones. I love the sound of the T1 and I think you'll definitely notice the upgrade. The T1 compares favorably to my high powered balanced headphone setup: TEAC UD-H01 balanced DAC and Schiit Mjolnir balanced amp with the HE-500. I know the HE-500 headphones are only 32 ohm, but the T1 has a LOT of headroom left--I run the T1's gain in the mid position.


----------



## hemipowered007

robrob said:


> I have an E17 and Aune T1 and have used both with HE-500 headphones. I love the sound of the T1 and I think you'll definitely notice the upgrade. The T1 compares favorably to my high powered balanced headphone setup: TEAC UD-H01 balanced DAC and Schiit Mjolnir balanced amp with the HE-500. I know the HE-500 headphones are only 32 ohm, but the T1 has a LOT of headroom left--I run the T1's gain in the mid position.




Perfect, now, what gear do I sell to obtain this...decisions decisions


----------



## soulkeeper

Hi to all of you!
  
 Searching for a dac/headphone amp. i came across this thread...
  
 Now i have squeezebox touch as a transport-> spdif to dacmagic (the old one not the 100 nor the plus)->analogue out to onkyo 807 and either speakers or sennheiser HD555...
  
 My main question is about it's dac ....how it is compared to the dacmagic?
  
 I'm assuming it will be way better concerning the headphone output compared to my avr's output...
  
 PS if it only supported 24/192 via usb....
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Thanks!!
  
 First time to buy a tube amplifier...


----------



## zeverus

Hi guys, i'm new with all of this audiophile things, I have just got a HD598 and have been very happy with it. However, i read that HD598 can really shine with a dac/amp. I listen to a variety of music, from classical to R&B. The bass of HD598 is ok for me, however some songs i would like a little more bass but should not be a big deal. So with that, can you suggest the tube that will be great to go with my hd598 with the budget of under $100?


----------



## joeq70

I'm in the market for a Rocket Logo. Shoot me a PM anyone if you are selling. Thanks!


----------



## colaturka

Does the aune t1 improve the AKG k550's alot?


----------



## CoiL

isendono said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > If I would have to choose only one tube for everything I would probably go for Siemens PCC189 or Ultron PCC189 white label. But thing is, Siemens tends to be pretty expensive (I got mine ridiculously cheap) and Ultron is hard to find but in EU it`s dirt cheap. If you have to exclude those tubes for those reasons, then most widely available and with ok price would be Amperex OG, cheaper option is Philips PCC189. If money isn`t problem - go straight for Amperex 7308 (haven`t heard it yet) or mint condition Amperex OG or Siemens PCC189.
> ...


 
  
 Yes, it`s Siemens PCC189 but I can`t tell you for sure you`ll get the same sounding tube. My siemens has PCC189 marking, white 99327 code printed partly over Siemens S logo, cant read the upper part of etched code but under it is B7C3, and other side of tube it`s made in germany.


----------



## icecap

Finally got myself a Siemens e88cc from quartzacoustic a couple weeks back after decided to taste an upgrade for so long. 

Not quite cheap but oh man, I think "holographic" as a term to describe headphone audio experience can be quite true afterall...


----------



## Illbetheone

joeq70 said:


> I'm in the market for a Rocket Logo. Shoot me a PM anyone if you are selling. Thanks!


 
  
  
http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/6H23-%7B47%7D-6922-Rocket-Logo.html
  
 $20 is a pretty good price.


----------



## joeq70

Thanks I forgot about upscale. Somebody has sent me one however, so I'm good to go!


----------



## soulkeeper

Any info on headphone's output impedance?
  
 Are the tubes mentioned in the 1st post the only ones that can be used?


----------



## isendono

soulkeeper said:


> Any info on headphone's output impedance?
> 
> Are the tubes mentioned in the 1st post the only ones that can be used?


 
  
 i think 6n1p's not suitable according to previous posts in this thread.


----------



## Auditore

You guys werent joking about the amperex 6dj8/E88CC. I got it off ebay for 15 USD and it has offered me a better imaging and sweeter music as compared to my then-favourite voshkods. Happy to pick it up, and i hope this is where my tube rolling journey ends. Need the funding to upgrade my Sr325I to a magnum v5 in the future haha ^^


----------



## CoiL

Auditore, are you talking about Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8/ECC88 ? Glad you like it. We don`t joke about tubes in this thread, only dead-serious stuff! 
  
 Btw, if you can & bother, make a pic and write tube code and give more detailed impressions too vs. voskhods.
  
 If you don`t have much money and are happy with OG then I recommend to stick with it. Continue only if you want to have tube-rolling fun & more exact match for different genres with cheapo tubes. 
  
 If you have money, go for Amperex 7308 or mint nos Siemens PCC189 (for me it`s more holographic than OG and it suits better as tube-for-every-genre).


----------



## Auditore

So to help the people who are unconfident of purchasing new tubes/ the Aune T1, i will try to help and give you the slight push. I am relative new to the audio scene, with just a HF5 for IEM, a Grado SR325I and of course, an Aune T1 amp. Above are the 3 tubes that i have acquired since getting the Aune T1.
 And here is the headphone they are powering.

  
 Ok first off, the default tube, the 6922 EH. 

 Its hard to go wrong with the stock tube of the Aune T1 assuming you buy it with this tube. Gives me a tighter and better bass response for music which is similar to SHM, Avicii etc. The slightly airy soundstage is noticeable from the Grados as the forward mids are still forward but not as. Instrument seperation is decent, and it carries with it a slight tube sound, sweetening the treble and warming the mids oh so slightly. It is definitely possible to use this tube, as it is good for most genres of music.
  
 Second, the voshkod rocket.

 The 6n23p voshkod rocket, hails from russia, and offers a completely different ball game from the 6922EH. Where the 6922EH slightly expands the soundstage of the Grados, this russian triode compresses it. Previously you were in the front row now the singer is singing into your ear. Ok, exaggeration, but i hope my point gets across. A very aggressive sounding tube, if i were to summarise it. Doesnt help taper the trebles, mids are nt as warm as the 6922EH, and the bass comes off as the big impact, but not as tight as i would've liked it. Cant argue given the price point.
  

 Lastly, the Amperex 6DJ8/E88CC. Not sure which model it is, all i can tell is it has an A-frame, and i think a dimpled getter. Tube coding has also been erased. But it should be the real deal given how you guys describe it. The Amperex compliments the Grado very well. It offers a tigher bass response, tighter than the 6922EH. Even sweeter treble, and even warmer mids. Seperation of instruments improves, soundstage gets airier, but the Grado still retain its forward nature. Music becomes even more transparent. It is just musical. I have not replaced it with another tube after the comparison, as it is just that good. 
  
 So overall, if one is not interested in tube rolling, 6922EH is good enough in its own right. If you are not satisfied and which to experiment, i wholeheartedly reccomend the Amperex first. If you are able to snag up this tube for a decent price, please do, you most likely wont regret it. I didnt. So i think my tube rolling journey stops here, till mysterious funds appear : D
  
 PS: YMMV, take my comments with a grain of salt as everyone is different ^^


----------



## CoiL

Thanks for your impressions! Of course everyone`s opinion and gear is slightly different but yes, you can`t go wrong with amperex OG 6dj8/ecc88. 
 About 6922EH bass tightness and mids I personally don`t agree. 6922EH bass is actually one of the loosest bass out of my tubes but it extends "deep" and mids are actually 
 pretty "flat" and not so warm/foward, they are somewhat on the "background" of highs and bass. Soundstage is big and this tube tube is still very good with EDM and atmospheric electronic music, at least I like this tube very much with those genres.


----------



## Auditore

Haha yup will not deny that it extends deep. Definitely missed that out in the comparison. Haha i see, but regardless, this amp with its forte of tubes have definitely boosted me up one step closer to audio nirvana. As a student in Singapore, this is definitely a luxury haha i must enjoy


----------



## Auditore

sorry double posted


----------



## teb1013

Nicely done post Auditore! Welcome to the thread. The 6922 EH used to be advertised as an upgrade tube, but I got it as standard too. I guess it is now the standard tube. I found it ok. The Voskhod was, as you say aggressive. I found it too much so and quickly tired of it. I haven't heard the Amperex 6DJ8, but I have the Amperex 7308 JAN white label, which is a sweet sounding euphonic tube with a great soundstage and my favorite. I also have a Siemens E88CC which is a nice smooth laid back tube that is enjoyable but I like the 7308 a bit better. Glad that you are enjoying the T1. Keep us advised of your impressions.


----------



## Salvatore

auditore said:


> So to help the people who are unconfident of purchasing new tubes/ the Aune T1, i will try to help and give you the slight push.


 
  
 I added your impressions to the T1 info post. If you later get new tubes and do more reviews remember to add them to this post also.


----------



## Salvatore

auditore said:


> Lastly, the Amperex 6DJ8/E88CC. Not sure which model it is, all i can tell is it has an A-frame, and i think a dimpled getter. Tube coding has also been erased.


 
  
 If it's your Amperex in this picture I can definitely see some factory codes.


----------



## CoiL

I believe it`s not his tube bc it`s with gold pins and codes, doubt he got it (pic one) so cheap. But you never know, might get lucky on eBay


----------



## Auditore

That picturewas my tube, however i edited the photo slightly and didnt realise it turned the pins golden. haha so here is an unedited picture of my tube. I think those are the factory codes you are looking for? Sorry for the bad photos


----------



## CoiL

Seems to be coded GA8 delta4C4. I have 1 GA8, imo tinybit better than GAE coded but difference might also be from using time. Anyway, GAC coded OG is still the best out of them imo.


----------



## Salvatore

auditore said:


> That picturewas my tube, however i edited the photo slightly and didnt realise it turned the pins golden. haha so here is an unedited picture of my tube. I think those are the factory codes you are looking for? Sorry for the bad photos


 
  
 Yes the factory codes seem to be GA? delta4C4. Can't really tell if that third symbol is 8 or what. Nevertheless, you got a 6DJ8 A-frame dimpled disc Amperex (produced in Holland Heerlen (Philips) factory during the 4th week of march 1974) in your hands. Good tube no doubt. Enjoy!


----------



## Auditore

Haha thank you both for the information, glad to know that i received a very good tube to pair with my setup. Will enjoy it as much as i can ^^


----------



## CoiL

Got really really lucky today... Amperex Orange Globe 6GM8/ECC86 Holland Heerlen - for just 3£ !!! With shipping it cost me only 10€ - crazy deal! O_o Those tubes are usually priced really high and it`s quite rare! Here`s seller pic:

 This is my first 6GM8/ECC86. All those 6GM8/ECC86`s have been so expensive and quite rare, that`s why I haven`t got it until now. Hope it`s good! ;P


----------



## isendono

will it work on aune t1?


----------



## CoiL

http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/035/6/6GM8.pdf
http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/030/e/ECC86.pdf
  
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/153258-ecc86-vs-ecc88.html
  
http://www.tubecad.com/2006/04/blog0059.htm
  
http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_6n27p.html
  
 Should work without problems. But we`ll see.


----------



## teb1013

​


coil said:


> Got really really lucky today... Amperex Orange Globe 6GM8/ECC86 Holland Heerlen - for just 3£ !!! With shipping it cost me only 10€ - crazy deal! O_o Those tubes are usually priced really high and it`s quite rare! Here`s seller pic:
> 
> 
> This is my first 6GM8/ECC86. All those 6GM8/ECC86`s have been so expensive and quite rare, that`s why I haven`t got it until now. Hope it`s good! ;P




Great deal! Is it NOS?


----------



## CoiL

Should be but you never know when buying from eBay. Prints on tube look very good and pins seem oxidized, looks NOS to me. 
 Will take hq pictures when I receive it.
  
 Btw, I updated tube list. Removed 6N1P (though it should work as I`ve read) + added some CV tubes with cross-reference links:


coil said:


> *6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, **6N27P,** 6N11, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
> *E188CC, **ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV2493, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, *
> *CV5358, M3624, CV4108, CV5331, CV5464, CV5472, CV8065, CV9838, CV10320, CV10403*
> 
> ...


 
  
 Joeq70 should also update tube list in Q&A section.
  
 Edit: 
  
 Btw, is anyone in here interested of nice wooden tube collecting/storing box with soft-cushioned silk interior, lockable and transportable? I`m going to make one or two for myself out of cherry-wood and thought making some for selling.
 Haven`t decided yet how large I should make them because I have around 35 tubes and some more coming probably, so, maybe 10-12 tubes for 1 storing box?


----------



## Salvatore

coil said:


> Got really really lucky today... Amperex Orange Globe 6GM8/ECC86 Holland Heerlen - for just 3£ !!! With shipping it cost me only 10€ - crazy deal! O_o Those tubes are usually priced really high and it`s quite rare!


 
  
 I thought you're done with tube rolling 
  


coil said:


> Btw, is anyone in here interested of nice wooden tube collecting/storing box with soft-cushioned silk interior, lockable and transportable? I`m going to make one or two for myself out of cherry-wood and thought making some for selling.
> Haven`t decided yet how large I should make them because I have around 35 tubes and some more coming probably, so, maybe 10-12 tubes for 1 storing box?


 
  
 Making these yourself? That's really cool. Definitely interested to see some photos along the progress. My small cigar box has served me really well, but it only takes 10 tubes (spares are stocked into tube boxes). Looks and smells pretty cool. Here's some photos for those interested.


----------



## CoiL

Oops about tube hoarding 
 I`m making my storing box totally different  Much flatter and safer for tubes to transport.


----------



## Salvatore

coil said:


> Oops about tube hoarding
> I`m making my storing box totally different  Much flatter and safer for tubes to transport.


 
  
 You're right, these cigar box solutions are not good for moving tubes around. Heck, I'm even scared to move them around in my house  But please do keep us posted. It's good to keep this fun thread active. I can already see you strolling along the streets of Tartu carrying homemade sleek looking briefcase full of precious tubes 
  
 Hey maybe you should come to Helsinki 1.-3.11.2013. We have a big HifiExpo here. We could also arrange tube listening sessions during this weekend


----------



## CoiL

Hmmm, getting interested about that Hifiexpo but I need a place to stay. But I`ll think about it. Would be great opportunity to try high-end headphones and share tube impressions  Got to raise tempo making my wooden HD-662F and tube case ;P


----------



## Inevitability

> Originally Posted by *CoiL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Btw, I updated tube list. Removed 6N1P (though it should work as I`ve read) + added some CV tubes with cross-reference links:


 
 I'm no longer sure about this. I've just made a test with Audacity (trying my 6N1P rocket logo tubes) and this is what i got:
  

  
 The upper wave is the input signal to the Aune and the lower one is what i get as output from it.
  
 It looks like the tube only amplify half of the signal (the positive half); the negative one is completely clipped. It is strange that both me and Sarurururu got faulty tubes but this test speaks by itself. It's not all about grid tension, the negative half of the wave is clipped!
 Can anyone here owning a 6N1P make a test? So we can definitely say if they work or not with the Aune T1.
  
 This is a photo of the tubes.


----------



## Salvatore

coil said:


> Hmmm, getting interested about that Hifiexpo but I need a place to stay. But I`ll think about it. Would be great opportunity to try high-end headphones and share tube impressions  Got to raise tempo making my wooden HD-662F and tube case ;P


 
  
 But seriously you should come. It would be nice to see some fellow head-fiers in person. Too bad I can't offer you a place to sleep since I'm just a guest myself (probably stay at my brothers place). But what I can do is try to get you a free ticket to the event. Take your headphones with you so you can compare them against some high end cans (last year there was basically the whole high end line of Sennheiser, Grado, Beyerdynamics, Hifiman, Shure, AKG... and not to mention the cool headphone amplifiers, high end speaker systems, optimized listening rooms + the whole offering of digiexpo). It was this same event last year where I found the K702 anniversaries and immediately fell in love with them.
  
 Day trip maybe?


----------



## CoiL

Please send me some info about that expo @ PM. Have to think about it. I have some friends in Helsinki but don`t know if I can get in contact with them. Anyway, enough of OT 
  
 Oh, forgot, this sounds awesome with Ultron SQ PCC189: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-2xVAF07QD8


----------



## isendono

Just received a RTC PCC189 tube and Siemens PCC189. The ebay seller described the RTC tube as RTC philips PCC189, may I ask why is that?
  
 On the other hand , the ebayer whom I just bought my AUNE T1 from had ran into trouble with ebay and the listing was removed by Ebay a few min ago. I had to open a resolution case to get back my money....... gonna wait for another couple of weeks before I can test all these beautiful tubes =(. GAHHHHH


----------



## CoiL

Bought mine from Kidult @ eBay. Slightly higher price maybe but for EU it`s fast delivery (from UK) and safe to buy. Recommend that seller.
  
 Edit: seems this seller is out of business.


----------



## Sarurururu

Hi CoiL,
  
 Thanks for your detailed tube recommendation last time. Please keep us posted about your wooden box project
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  Few tubes has arrived couple day ago, here are the photos:

 (Please ignore the EH 6922 at the back)
 The right one has a D-Getter, didn't know that at the time I placed my bid, kind of surprising when it came
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 The Bugle Boy on the left is by far the most "tube sound" amongst all my other tubes as well as the warmest.It condense every single note with pleasant coloration; but soundstage is quite narrow and up front. Guess it would be suitable for Chamber music or jazz.
  
 The ECC188 on the right however is very different, soundstage is much wider but slightly flat in response IMO. But I'm not saying it's no good.
  

 Telefunken, finally have a chance listening to this legendary brand, since it is a PCC189 without gold pin, I got it at a reasonable price.
 Impression? I'd say: "Typical German hi-tech technology"
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It gives you everything you need except... passion and emotionality.


----------



## Salvatore

sarurururu said:


> The right one has a D-Getter, didn't know that at the time I placed my bid, kind of surprising when it came
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 D-getter, nice. It usually means old and rare. My 7DJ8 Tele is probably my most natural sounding tube. I can't notice any major coloration or emphasis with that one. It's also very transparent and has nice bass. All this being said, I kind of agree with your opinion. Tele is high tech high end but can also feel slightly industrial. It's one of my best tubes no doubt, but those Amperex tubes are imo better if you need that extra soul from your tubes 
  
 BTW does that bugle boy have small, medium or large halo getter. I have one with small halo getter and it's indeed more tubey sounding than, lets say, orange globe for example. Similar but more tubey.


----------



## bobjane

I just had a tube die on my T1. Switched it on and the tube filaments did not light up, the volume was extremely low almost inaudible. The tube also got much hotter than usual even though it was only on for 1-2 minutes.
  
 The tube was an Amperex 7308 PQ purchased a few weeks ago from a reputable seller measuring 12.5/12.0 & 12.5/12.0 mA/Gm (nominal new measure 12.0/11.5).
  
 Anyone had a similar experience?


----------



## CoiL

These things happen unfortunately with NOS tubes but ouch about 7308 PQ, expensive tube to die, r.i.p.
 But maybe it has "a loose connection" because of shaking or something, like one of my Tungsram PCC88 has, sometimes works sometimes not. 
  
 Btw, anyone willing to try this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECC189-CV5331-PHILIPS-NOS-BOXED-/310355054686?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubes&hash=item48429a505e


----------



## teb1013

bobjane said:


> I just had a tube die on my T1. Switched it on and the tube filaments did not light up, the volume was extremely low almost inaudible. The tube also got much hotter than usual even though it was only on for 1-2 minutes.
> 
> The tube was an Amperex 7308 PQ purchased a few weeks ago from a reputable seller measuring 12.5/12.0 & 12.5/12.0 mA/Gm (nominal new measure 12.0/11.5).
> 
> Anyone had a similar experience?




Amperex 7308 is my favorite tube. Sorry to hear about your loss. I have been using mine for 3 months. I hope it lasts many more!



sarurururu said:


> Hi CoiL,
> 
> Thanks for your detailed tube recommendation last time. Please keep us posted about your wooden box project:bigsmile_face:
> 
> ...




Good report! Your comments on the Telefunken are interesting. Let us know how these tubes break in as you use them.


----------



## MrEleventy

Ditto on the TFK PCC189. It's veeery flat and neutral, which ppl would deem emotion-less, but it's what I want since I output into a tube amp that adds it's own color. With the TFK in place, it's very much an Odac but with the added benefit of changing the sound just by switching tubes.


----------



## hojomojo96

Has anyone ever compared the DAC section of the Aune to the Tubemagic D2?


----------



## Sarurururu

salvatore said:


> D-getter, nice. It usually means old and rare. My 7DJ8 Tele is probably my most natural sounding tube. I can't notice any major coloration or emphasis with that one. It's also very transparent and has nice bass. All this being said, I kind of agree with your opinion. Tele is high tech high end but can also feel slightly industrial. It's one of my best tubes no doubt, but those Amperex tubes are imo better if you need that extra soul from your tubes
> 
> BTW does that bugle boy have small, medium or large halo getter. I have one with small halo getter and it's indeed more tubey sounding than, lets say, orange globe for example. Similar but more tubey.


 
  
 Hi Salvatore,
  
 Great minds think alike 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 In order to answer your question, here is the photo of my Bugle Boy (cause I don't know how to determine distinction between large and medium
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) Guess it's a large one???

  
 Another 2 tubes came this afternoon
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
 Valvo E88CC, A frame with gold pin.
  
 Built quality: crap! one of the them the getter totally lean on one side of the glass, pins are bended, scratches on components inside
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Impression: Well, everyone better keep their hands off these crappy rubbish valve whenever you see it on eBay, just call me and I'll handle it
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Confession: Excellent! Solid punchy bass, good separation, ENERGETICALLY DYNAMIC and AWFULLY POWERFUL! Sound stage wise is kind of middle spaciousness.
 P.S: If spending money on these tubes is considered as a sin (especially in wife's point of view), so be it!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  


  
 BTW, it came with two little packs of gummy bears, yum-yum
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Highly recommended to every seller should do the same!


----------



## Sarurururu

inevitability said:


> I'm no longer sure about this. I've just made a test with Audacity (trying my 6N1P rocket logo tubes) and this is what i got:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Impressive and interesting finding mate! I just ordered lot of 8 pcs of 6N23P


----------



## Salvatore

sarurururu said:


> Hi Salvatore,
> 
> Great minds think alike
> 
> ...


 
  
 Yes it looks like it's either a large or medium halo. Basically small is so small that you know it when you see it and large is almost as big as fits. Large halos should be the best or at least the most wanted bugle boys. You got a D-getter and (to my eyes) a large halo which is really cool! Many ebay sellers are saying they have large halo but they either really don't have it or they are not showing good enough pictures. Also your prints are in very nice condition. Large halo and good prints like that... well that's one mighty fine collectors item there. Even if it doesn't get as much listening time as some of your other tubes it's still a great iconic piece of tube history.
  
 At some point you should put all your tube impressions into one post so I can add them to the T1 info post.
  
 For the sake of comparison, here's a picture of my small halo getter.


----------



## Illbetheone

teb1013 said:


> Amperex 7308 is my favorite tube. Sorry to hear about your loss. I have been using mine for 3 months. I hope it lasts many more!
> Good report! Your comments on the Telefunken are interesting. Let us know how these tubes break in as you use them.


 
 I wonder how the Bugle Boy sounds compared to the Russian Rocket tube? Thoughts?


----------



## Salvatore

illbetheone said:


> I wonder how the Bugle Boy sounds compared to the Russian Rocket tube? Thoughts?


 
  
 Haven't done any straight comparisons but I think my bugle is somewhere between rocket and orange print. I don't remember it to be very forward sounding though so definitely closer to orange. I also think my bugle has been used quite a lot before it came to me, so it might be past it's prime. I bet *Saru* will post impressions after his 6N23P tubes arrive (assuming they are rockets).


----------



## jipan

Is the DAC part or the amplifier part of Aune T1 which bright? I found Senn HD600 + Aune T1 to be quite bright. Any though?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

jipan said:


> Is the DAC part or the amplifier part of Aune T1 which bright? I found Senn HD600 + Aune T1 to be quite bright. Any though?


 
 What tube and what song? As for me, there is no too bright sound. But maybe because I love bright side than dark side. BTW, using 6922 tube. Haven't try stock tube tho..


----------



## Salvatore

jipan said:


> Is the DAC part or the amplifier part of Aune T1 which bright? I found Senn HD600 + Aune T1 to be quite bright. Any though?


 
  
 I haven't tried T1 as DAC only but the amp is on the bright side.


----------



## MrEleventy

jipan said:


> Is the DAC part or the amplifier part of Aune T1 which bright? I found Senn HD600 + Aune T1 to be quite bright. Any though?


I found it to be the amp. When I was running the Objective2 from the RCA outs, it wasn't as bright. I actually liked the HD600 + Aune T1 combo more than my other HPs. (All my other HPs were bright leaning).


----------



## soulkeeper

some help for us potential  buyers..
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Will it be ok to drive my HD555 (50ohms)..? ( I've read that headphone tube amplifiers are best with high impedance headphones )
  
 I know that my HD555 will not benefit much by amp but i like the combo ,using also the aune as a dac ...(connected via usb to my logitech touch)
  
 PS any other alternatives in the same price range,just to compare?
  
 Thanks!


----------



## MrEleventy

soulkeeper said:


> some help for us potential  buyers..
> 
> Will it be ok to drive my HD555 (50ohms)..? ( I've read that headphone tube amplifiers are best with high impedance headphones )
> 
> ...



Yes, typically, tube amps are best with high impedance hps but. T1 isn't a tube amp.  Tube Dac + SS Amp so you're fine with the combo.


----------



## soulkeeper

You're right!!
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Any info on the headphone output impedance of T1?If i'm correct the lower the better (bigger damping factor)..
  
PS The only thing that stops me right now, is that i have couple of 12au7-ecc81-ecc82 type tubes (from a friend) and i just wondered if there is any similar to aune T1 compatible with 12au7 tubes..


----------



## MrEleventy

The specs on it varies since there doesn't seem to be a "home" site but it says, 10ohm Here Also here

I don't think the tubes are compatible but I haven't ventured outside of the normal acceptable range in terms of tubes. Just stuck with the 6DJ8s mainly


----------



## Inevitability

soulkeeper said:


> Any info on the headphone output impedance of T1?If i'm correct the lower the better (bigger damping factor)..


 
  
 In the official Aune site http://en.auneaudio.com/ they state the T1 headphone output impedance is 10 Ohm, as you can see here http://en.auneaudio.com/html/en_products/NewDesign/T-Series/154_20.html, Specification tab.


----------



## CoiL

soulkeeper said:


> PS The only thing that stops me right now, is that i have couple of 12au7-ecc81-ecc82 type tubes (from a friend) and i just wondered if there is any similar to aune T1 compatible with 12au7 tubes..


 
 No, those tubes will not work with Aune T1. Just posted tube list 2 pages back:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502453
  
  
*Edit: *LOL, I must be really lucky with tubes lately! Just won auction for *3x Miniwatt-Dario ECC189/6ES8* + 1x Mazda ECC189, only for 8.4€ (post included) ! ;D I already have 1 Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 and it`s very good overall performer with tightest&punchiest bass (but not flat&dry sounding) out of my collection. Impressions about this tube can be found earlier in this thread by search: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2160#post_9546068. They are tinybit better than Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 or at least same. I`m really happy about these, hope they arrive safely! ;P Here`s seller pic:

 Happy tube hunting! ;D


----------



## isendono

coil said:


> Happy tube hunting! ;D


 
 Wanna share ;D?!


----------



## CoiL

NooooOOOO! My precious!


----------



## bobjane

bobjane said:


> I just had a tube die on my T1. Switched it on and the tube filaments did not light up, the volume was extremely low almost inaudible. The tube also got much hotter than usual even though it was only on for 1-2 minutes.
> 
> The tube was an Amperex 7308 PQ purchased a few weeks ago from a reputable seller measuring 12.5/12.0 & 12.5/12.0 mA/Gm (nominal new measure 12.0/11.5).
> 
> Anyone had a similar experience?


 
 My second (and last) Amperex 7308 just died in the exact same manner. Not sure what to do now.


----------



## CoiL

O_o
 Thats weird. Try some other cheap tube and leave it on for longer time. If it dies too, then your T1 might have some problems. But it seems you are first to have such "tube-eating" problem.
 I have burned my different tubes for a longer period a lot and no problems. And if those tube measurements are made by "eBay" seller then they may be totally inaccurate, never trust those measurements.


----------



## bobjane

I've put the stock Electro Harmonix 6922 back in but still too early to tell.
  
 I also hope it's not the T1 breaking the tubes.
  
 I came across good feedback on the eBay seller on numerous audio forums but yes it's still hard to tell whether they are honest.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

How long usually a tube can stand and what factor that affect the lifetime? And anyone ever compare Aune T1 amp with Bravo V2 amp?


----------



## xkonfuzed

Hey guys, just yesterday i received my T1. I plugged the adapter into the socket and BOOM, some kind of shock happened. If my finger was just one inch closer to the socket i would've ended up in the hospital. I don't know what the hell caused this, but now the adapter is not working. Im pretty sure the unit itself is not defective, but apparently the adapter doesn't like our home's sockets. Anyone else have this problem? And how can i get this fixed?


----------



## CoiL

Does your adapter unit have a UK plug with fuse or EU plug? Maybe you have UK plug, then there`s hope that you just blew the fuse inside the plug. That`s the reason why I bought UK » EU adapter to keep the UK plug fuse. Btw, read fist post, UK plug fuse is by default too high value and it might not protect your PSU & T1 unit.


----------



## xkonfuzed

coil said:


> Does your adapter unit have a UK plug with fuse or EU plug? Maybe you have UK plug, then there`s hope that you just blew the fuse inside the plug. That`s the reason why I bought UK » EU adapter to keep the UK plug fuse. Btw, read fist post, UK plug fuse is by default too high value and it might not protect your PSU & T1 unit.


 
 Its a US plug and our socket is UK, but i have an external socket that can plug into US. I think thats what happened, if i blew the fuse inside the plug is it possible to get it fixed by any chance?


----------



## Mannythebearpig

I just got mine in the mail today and having some trouble shooting problems. I can hear computer sound effects but when i go to play some music or video i get nothing. Not sure what i'm missing here.


----------



## teb1013

mannythebearpig said:


> I just got mine in the mail today and having some trouble shooting problems. I can hear computer sound effects but when i go to play some music or video i get nothing. Not sure what i'm missing here.




What type of computer do you have, Mac or PC? I think the PC needs a driver installed. With a Mac you have to select the Aune as your playback source.


----------



## teb1013

xkonfuzed said:


> Its a US plug and our socket is UK, but i have an external socket that can plug into US. I think thats what happened, if i blew the fuse inside the plug is it possible to get it fixed by any chance?




Kuwait has 240 volt power 50 Hz. US is 120 volts 60 Hz. If you have a plug adaptor, I assume that it has a transformer to bring the voltage to the proper level for the T1 power supply. Have you been using the adaptor successfully for other US voltage equipment? Be careful! I grew up in the UK which also has 240 volts. I still remember the mind numbing shocks I got a couple of times as a little kid!


----------



## Mannythebearpig

I have a PC but I'm really at a loss now. I switched it from line to USB and it worked perfectly (derr) but i had to restart my comp and now it doesn't work again even with it on usb -.-
 EDIT: Had to switch my it to default.


----------



## xkonfuzed

teb1013 said:


> Kuwait has 240 volt power 50 Hz. US is 120 volts 60 Hz. If you have a plug adaptor, I assume that it has a transformer to bring the voltage to the proper level for the T1 power supply. Have you been using the adaptor successfully for other US voltage equipment? Be careful! I grew up in the UK which also has 240 volts. I still remember the mind numbing shocks I got a couple of times as a little kid!



Yup, I use the exact same adapter for other US voltage appliances and it works perfectly fine. I guess I should be more careful next time, electricity is not a joke. 

Anyways, thanks.


----------



## CoiL

This is just crazy - just won an auction for 4x PCC189 tubes - 2x Valvo PCC189 and 2x Siemens PCC189 - only for 5.5€ with post included!


----------



## jipan

I know it's very late but thank you for your answers. Next purchase will be a dark sounding amplifier then. Or I'll try looking for warmer sounding tube?
 In meantime I'll just reduce the treble using EQ a little.
 Quote:


salvatore said:


> I haven't tried T1 as DAC only but the amp is on the bright side.


 


mreleventy said:


> I found it to be the amp. When I was running the Objective2 from the RCA outs, it wasn't as bright. I actually liked the HD600 + Aune T1 combo more than my other HPs. (All my other HPs were bright leaning).


 
   
  
 Still on default EH6922, haven't got time for tube hunting yet. Except on rock and classical musics,  I found the treble bit sharper than I like. Easy to remedy by using EQ, although I really prefer not to use EQ. The treble even more apparent on those bright recording (mainly on mainstream "musics", which is, like, 70-80% of my library).
  
 Quote:


diaboliqu3 said:


> What tube and what song? As for me, there is no too bright sound. But maybe because I love bright side than dark side. BTW, using 6922 tube. Haven't try stock tube tho..


----------



## CoiL

You should really try another tube. 6922EH is quite bright sounding. Amperex OG, Ultron SQ PCC189, Siemens PCC88, Siemens PCC189, JAN Sylvania 6922 are the one`s you should look for. Last two are tinybit brighter sounding than others but still with smoother highs than 6922EH.
  
*Edit:  *I received my Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86. It`s coded delta6J5, Heerlen Holland, small o-ring getter. looks like this:

  
 How it sounds, well ....OMG! I think I have stepped up to high-end tubes league with this. Seriously, first impressions with electronic atmospheric music - so freaking holographic sound, big wide large borderless soundstage in every direction with pitch-black background! Every detail, instrument, vocal is so separated from eachother. 
 This tube is certainly one of my best tubes. Not sure it`s best for every genre since I have to do some burn-in and compare it with my other gems but it`s freaking freaking freaking good! ;P And to think that I got it only for pennies... O_o 
  
 Edit2: And some more listening tells me that it sounds great with rock/metal/progressive/jazz too if your not a fan of intimate sounding tubes with small soundstage. 
 Compared to Ultron PCC189 & Amperex OG GAC it has more spacious soundstage but instruments don`t get lost in that space, everything is just so... holographic.
 And vocals with Dead Letter Circus for example are easily listenable with all that spacious sound, it does not "get lost in space". Everything is full of detail and clearness.


----------



## isendono

what's the "burn in" duration for vacuum tubes?


----------



## CoiL

There is no such a certain duration thing actually but some unused NOS tubes change their sound character after some burning a little. I`ve experienced it with some tubes.
 Usually I leave tube playing different music for at least 2-3 days so it will properly warm up and "take its sound shape". This time is usually still not enough probably and tube
 sound will still change littlebit over time. But all this info and process info can be easily found in internet. 
 Btw, don`t forget to clean your NOS tube pins properly. I was thinking about doing instructions with pictures how to do it easily and without damaging pins and prints on tube.
 I use baking soda + vinegar. For example, this Amperex OG 6GM8 has nice shiny pins on last posted picture as result of that. Those pins had oxidation&dirt all over the pins.


----------



## mindwar

How does the aune perform with the k701? Im looking for something that will still keep the k701's soundstage but add a touch of warmth to the sound. Is the amp capable of driving the headphone well? Im mainly looking at this and the little dot mk3 (no DAC with the ld though).


----------



## CoiL

mindwar, please try to use search inside this thread. If I can recall, someone had little dot and T1 both. Also someone had K701 and for example Salvatore likes T1 a lot with K702.


----------



## jipan

Yeah, I'll do that, it's much cheaper than buying separate amplifier (although I'll do that in the end). About ECC86, are you sure it's safe to use in T1? I tried googled it but not really sure about the result.
  
 Quote:


coil said:


> You should really try another tube. 6922EH is quite bright sounding. Amperex OG, Ultron SQ PCC189, Siemens PCC88, Siemens PCC189, JAN Sylvania 6922 are the one`s you should look for. Last two are tinybit brighter sounding than others but still with smoother highs than 6922EH.
> 
> *Edit:  *I received my Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86. It`s coded delta6J5, Heerlen Holland, small o-ring getter


----------



## Salvatore

mindwar said:


> How does the aune perform with the k701? Im looking for something that will still keep the k701's soundstage but add a touch of warmth to the sound. Is the amp capable of driving the headphone well? Im mainly looking at this and the little dot mk3 (no DAC with the ld though).


 
  
 Hi! I have K702 anniversaries, which are warmer more linear than the standard versions, and they do have very good synergy with the T1. The K701 without anniversary pads could, however, be a bit too much on the bright side (because both your cans and T1 are on the bright side). With this combo you'd definitely want warm sounding tube. The soundstage is there and T1 has plenty of power to drive X7XX, so no worries. With T1 you basically get brightish SS amp with tube dac. You can mellow the sound and flatten those treble spikes for a bit with right tubes, but if you're really into that thick tube sound then you probably need a dedicated tube amp. This being said, T1 is so cheap that you can't go wrong with it. It's fantastic performer for the price (SS amp + DAC with tube rolling fun!) and can drive even the most demanding headphones thanks to the changeable gain settings. Another option would be to try anniversary/K712 pads in your K701 or get E17/E18 and do some EQing (not recommended though).


----------



## CoiL

Jipan, read my comments and links about 6GM8. Works like charm and sound is just mind-blowing-holographic ;P It`s been burning-in and playing already over 48h and it got better too. First was not sure about bass performance but it`s now certainly tight and dynamic. 


>





Spoiler: 6GM8






coil said:


> http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/035/6/6GM8.pdf
> http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/030/e/ECC86.pdf
> 
> http://www.r-type.org/exhib/aaa1161.htm
> ...


 


coil said:


> Got really really lucky today... Amperex Orange Globe 6GM8/ECC86 Holland Heerlen - for just 3£ !!! With shipping it cost me only 10€ - crazy deal! O_o Those tubes are usually priced really high and it`s quite rare! Here`s seller pic:
> 
> This is my first 6GM8/ECC86. All those 6GM8/ECC86`s have been so expensive and quite rare, that`s why I haven`t got it until now. Hope it`s good! ;P


 
 And here`s my pics and sound comments:  





coil said:


> *Edit:  *I received my Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86. It`s coded delta6J5, Heerlen Holland, small o-ring getter. looks like this:
> 
> 
> How it sounds, well ....OMG! I think I have stepped up to high-end tubes league with this. Seriously, first impressions with electronic atmospheric music - so freaking holographic sound, big wide large borderless soundstage in every direction with pitch-black background! Every detail, instrument, vocal is so separated from eachother.
> ...


 

  





>


----------



## Salvatore

coil said:


> read my comments and links about 6GM8.


 
  
 It's cool when you hear those super transparent tubes for the first time. That's what I get from my Amperex 7308 as well. It's warm, musical and so transparent that it indeed feels almost holographic. You instantly know that it's a great tube. Seems like this 6GM8 OG could be cheap substitute for the 7308. Gongratulations for the find!


----------



## CoiL

Yes, this could be indeed substitute to higher priced 7308 but I would not say anything sure until I get chance to listen 7308 
 Unfortunately this Amperex OG 6GM8 is very hard to get. Don`t know if I should "waste" it on listening but it`s hard to keep my ears off from this tube


----------



## richard51

Hello everybody...... If anybody has some exprience with the hifiman 400 and the aune t1 tube dac......i want to know if i am wrong, but i think
that the full potential of the orthodynamics is not fully exploited by the aune t1. The he 400 are very efficient, but i think orthos need amplification with more power.... are my impression wrong ? I have Fostex th 7 b and the sound of these headphone with the aune t1 are very extraordinary for the price ( in canada 50 dollars). The hifiman he 400 are in another league but i feel that the full potential of thesse headphone are not fully open with the aune... am I wrong?


----------



## CoiL

First post: 


> Q:What headphones are adequately driven by the Aune T1 amp?
> A: Almost every headphone I have tried with the T1 works very, very well.
> 
> Here is a list of headphones that I've used on the T1, and I think sound great:
> ...


 
 And have you tried gain switches at the bottom on Aune T1? +10db & +16db ?


----------



## richard51

i put the two switch on the "on" side.... Is it too much gain for the he 400?


----------



## richard51

I realize that i dont know how to adjust the gain settings....... what is the adjusment for hifiman he 400 ? there four buttons marked on or off and one and two .... this is many possibilities.... Thank you for your help.....


----------



## MrEleventy

There's 3 settings. 0db, +6db, and +10db, all down is 0, All dips marked 1 is +6, all dips up is +10db.
E : 0db, +10db, and +16db, all down is 0, All dips marked 1 is +10, all dips up is +16db.


----------



## CoiL

was it +6 and +10 ? If so, then sorry, bad memory, thought it was +10 and +16db.


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> was it +6 and +10 ? If so, then sorry, bad memory, thought it was +10 and +16db.


Actually, no. You were correct sir. It is +10 and +16.


----------



## shaocaholica

Does the Aune T1 operate in asynchronous USB mode?


----------



## richard51

Mr. Eleventy, thank you very much for your response...... all my 4 clips are near the on, hence i am down with 0 db now ? ...... if all clips marked one are near "one" its 10 db ? And If all clips are on the opposite side of the "on" , as in your illustration, its 16 db? am i right? 

I would like to know what is the ideal gain position for the hifiman he 400 ..... I dont know... I thank you very much for your kind reply and patience....


----------



## Salvatore

richard51 said:


> Mr. Eleventy, thank you very much for your response...... all my 4 clips are near the on, hence i am down with 0 db now ? ...... if all clips marked one are near "one" its 10 db ? And If all clips are on the opposite side of the "on" , as in your illustration, its 16 db? am i right?
> 
> I would like to know what is the ideal gain position for the hifiman he 400 ..... I dont know... I thank you very much for your kind reply and patience....


 
  
 What about reading the manual and testing which gain setting works for you


----------



## Salvatore

Aune T1 manual:


----------



## Salvatore

Aune T1 gain settings:


----------



## Salvatore

Manual and gain settings are now included to the info post.


----------



## Sarurururu

>


 
 Hi everyone,
  
 I am going to pool my impression of my tiny collection as *Salvatore* have suggested before, hope it would be useful for other members
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  

 6N23P with *Double Support Getter* 
  

 6N23P with *Single Support Getter*
  

 6N23P with *numbers written on plates*
  

 6N23P, *Left:* Double Support Getter; *Right:* Single Support Getter
  
*Reflector 6N23P: *spacious and natural sounding with good separation, highly affordable. One of my favour. Good for all kinds of music, from Classical to Contemporary. I think there are at least 3 different kinds of Getter with Reflector 6N23P, personally I like the double support type the most as it is the most natural sounding. The single support one is relatively forward and narrow, but still good. It's a *MUST HAVE!*
  



*Fake Amperex Orange Globe with code "r-022"*
*Fake Amperex Orange Globe:* Well, basically it's a 6N23P with double support getter. Infrastructure and sounding are exactly the same. This is my first tube and I got it from ebay. People can find these on ebay from time to time, however a lot of sellers will describe it as if it's a real Amperex (like mine
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




). You will probably find them all etched with code "r-022" which I believe it's quite different from the real coding system that Amperex would normally use. Most of these fake ones i saw are said made in W. German or simply German and normally the printing are unclear (mine is surprisingly clear
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




).
  

*EH6922: *Not much to be mentioned, forward and energetic; however, bass is a bit loose and muffy. Normally come as stock tube of T1. If someone is interested in EH6922, I would suggest saving the money for other options, such as 6N23P 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  

*Left:* Bugle Boy; *Right:* ECC189 with D-Getter
*Bugle Boy: Extremely warm and tubey!* Up-front and narrow, suits Jazz well IMHO. These days it's relatively expensive probably due to it's myth created by the publics. If someone asked me, I would disagree on it's current market price.
*Amperex ECC189: *Far more spacious and balance than the Bugle Boy. However, no specific characteristic stands out.
  

*Tungsram: *Vastly available online, affordable, average performance which I think it's kind of flat in terms of response and character, others might like it. Sound has been improved a bit after run in and somehow I believe it sounds better when used together with my Socket Saver. It could be just my own illusion, you never know. 
  

*Telefunken PCC189: *This is the poor man version Telefunken since it's a PCC189 without gold pin. If anyone want to impress his girlfriend(s) or neighbors with high-tech German technology, by all means go get one and play it loud. Distinct highs and mids as well as punchy bass, W--I--D--E soundstage, every WOW effect, you name it Telefunken will promptly deliver it to your girlfriend(s) or neighbours' ears. However, if you want to enjoy MUSIC rather than showing off your gears, I'd suggest something else plugged into the socket.
  

*Valvo E88CC (Red) with gold pin: Worst tubes ever on earth as it is highly addictive! Don't waste your money on these, leave it for me*




  

*Mullard E88CC with gold pin: *Well, expensive, it gives you the traditional "British Elegance". Spacious, airy, warm, educated and .... _Elegant~~~~_ Will pair with Classicals or anything softcore well but hardcore. If you accidentally leave it on then play "Iron Maiden" or "Guns & Roses", you probably end up with "Secret Garden" or "The Carpenters"
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Personally I love this tube very much, but no doubt it's usage is limited to certain genus of music only.
  


*Mullard ECC88 Imported: *Um, by the fact that it's labeled as "Imported", coming with an A-frame and coded GAG... Well, Amperex A-frame has already been discussed a lot by many senior members, so I guess I can save my words and breath.
  


*T1 light effect when Socket Saver is used
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	


*
*NOVIB Socket Save: *Does it worth US$ 35 plus shipping? *No! *However, is it useful? *Yes!* With the socket saver I find it much easier to dismount my tubes from the T1, the original socket of T1 just too tight and every time I have to rock the tube back and forth violently before getting it out. The socket also block most of the led light generated from T1, allowing the tube to reveal it's original colour. It's such an eye candy at night and beautifully sitting next to my bed
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (another WOW effect or excuse to ask your girlfriend(s) going into your bedroom
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)


----------



## Salvatore

sarurururu said:


> I am going to pool my impression of my tiny collection as *Salvatore* have suggested before, hope it would be useful for other members


 
  
 I have added this post to the list of tube impressions. Because you already have quite many tubes (and maybe even more to come) I'd suggest you to put one good photo and a review per tube (maybe put those single/double support Russians side by side?). This way the post stays as informative and easy to read as possible. If you later review more tubes remember to update this pool post also.
  
 You have lots of useful detailed info in these four posts below, so maybe you should add some of the text into this pool also?
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2970#post_9872587
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2970#post_9870227
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2910#post_9843507
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2895#post_9838769


----------



## richard51

salvatore said:


> What about reading the manual and testing which gain setting works for you



 


Thank tou very much Mr. salvatore, by the way they dont give me a manual and i discovered my problem here....


----------



## richard51

The ideal adjustment gain for he 400 for me is 10 db...... Its make all the difference in the world........ Aune t1 is a marvel for the price for the he 400 ...... Thanks to all for the help


----------



## Salvatore

richard51 said:


> The ideal adjustment gain for he 400 for me is 10 db...... Its make all the difference in the world........ Aune t1 is a marvel for the price for the he 400 ...... Thanks to all for the help


 
  
 No problem. We're here to help  So you're confirming that T1 has enough juice to power HE-400.


----------



## MrEleventy

salvatore said:


> Aune T1 manual:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Manual


Sal to the rescue! Thx for the "scans"!


----------



## teb1013

Outstanding post Sarurururu! Your description of the Valvos is a hoot! Great pictures! Thanks for the nighttime tube saver pictures.


----------



## CoiL

Great post Sarurururu. But personally I don`t agree about 6N23P reflector with double support leg being spacious. I mean it has ok space but it`s certainly not spacious.
 For me it`s quite intimate, foward and "through the blanket" sounding tube but it seems to be thing of taste in your case. It`s very affordable and easily available but personally I would put my money on other tubes if you expect clearness, great separation and air between & around instruments. 

 And about 6922EH I don`t agree about it being foward, no way I could describe this tube like that. It`s very airy and with large soundstage. About bass you are right. 6N23P and 6922EH are totally different sounding tubes and for different genres imho, so, you can`t really say go for 6N23P to everyone. Like I said it depends on taste & genre you listen, also not to mention gear differences. 
  
 Please don`t take it bad way but next time try to give more detailed impressions and comparing between tubes about different nuances like bass, mids, highs, tightness, air, soundstage size and shape, instrument separation, what genres you think it fits better etc. Comments like "*Worst tubes ever on earth as it is highly addictive! Don't waste your money on these, leave it for me" *won`t tell anything useful really. Maybe you are just new to this tube thing and haven`t done enough analytical listening. 
  
 Anyway, keep posting on your tube impressions and enjoy your Aune T1 !


----------



## Salvatore

He's just having fun with his tubes that's all  I found some of those comments to be quite hilarious actually. My favorite was "_another WOW effect or excuse to ask your girlfriend(s) going into your bedroom_", lol. I guess for my wife these tubes are more of a turn off than a foreplay


----------



## robrob

Coil, listening impressions are_ impressions_, not objective fact. There's also a lot of variability between tubes of the same type and the headphones being used affect what's heard. I'm happy to hear anyone's impressions and opinions on audio gear. "Maybe you are just new to this tube thing and haven`t done enough analytical listening." Really? Lighten up, we're talking about a freakin' tube DAC here. Those kind of posts will discourage open discourse, especially with people new to the T1 or to this forum.


----------



## CoiL

salvatore said:


> He's just having fun with his tubes that's all  I found some of those comments to be quite hilarious actually. My favorite was "_another WOW effect or excuse to ask your girlfriend(s) going into your bedroom_", lol. I guess for my wife these tubes are more of a turn off than a foreplay


 
 Yeah, agree, those comments are hilarious ;D Sorry for being so serious about tubes ;P
  
 robrob, I told him not to take this bad way. It`s just use of words about describing tubes, for "beginner" it`s hard to do serious analytical listening and find all those differences and I understand well if impressions are impressions. I`m just too enthusiastic tube roller and too serious sometimes, sorry 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
 Btw, got my 3x Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 & 1x Mazda ECC189 tubes today:

 1) Yellow printed Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 logo with © 3-3 under it, coded |X1 ±2L4, 2 little dots in line under code
 2) Yellow printed Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 logo with © 12-2 under it, coded |X1 ±2J2, 2 little dots in line under code
 3) Yellow printed Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 logo with © 12-2 under it, coded |X1 ±2I2, 5 little dots in line under code
 4) Light grey printed ECC189 MAZDA with III-7 between them, tiny 6667 under those, coded |X1 ±5A3, 4 little dots in line under code
  
 All those tubes should be made in France, La Radiotechnique, Chartres. How they sound? ...like my previous impressions about Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 & ECC189 in this thread.


----------



## richard51

Yes Mr. salvatore I confirm that the Aune T1 has enough juice for the he 400..... on my own experience and free will......Thanks


----------



## shaocaholica

Can anyone confirm that the Aune T1 *cannot* operate asynchronously over USB.


----------



## MrEleventy

It's not a asynchronous dac


----------



## CoiL

I know that many audiophiles want that thingy but I still haven`t got the point of it and really don`t care about it. Personally I think there`s nothing short about Aune T1 being non-asynchronous dac  
  
 Well, I read littlebit about it and here`s short explanation for those who don`t know yet what it is: http://www.hifi-advice.com/USB-synchronous-asynchronous-info.html
  
 Still, I don`t belive it makes any noticeable difference when Aune T1 could have this asynchronous thing.


----------



## vackraord

coil said:


> I know that many audiophiles want that thingy but I still haven`t got the point of it and really don`t care about it. Personally I think there`s nothing short about Aune T1 being non-asynchronous dac
> 
> Well, I read littlebit about it and here`s short explanation for those who don`t know yet what it is: http://www.hifi-advice.com/USB-synchronous-asynchronous-info.html
> 
> Still, I don`t belive it makes any noticeable difference when Aune T1 could have this asynchronous thing.


 
 asynchronous generates less jitter, but it's very subtle in most applications. I have asynchronous interfaces mainly for my recording purposes. If(hopefully when...) Im recording the solo of my life I don't wan't anything but perfection in the recording 
  
 But yeah, when it comes to the T1, asynchronous vs synchronous usb-transfer is the least of worries...


----------



## CoiL

coil said:


> Jipan, read my comments and links about 6GM8. Works like charm and sound is just mind-blowing-holographic ;P It`s been burning-in and playing already over 48h and it got better too. First was not sure about bass performance but it`s now certainly tight and dynamic.
> 
> 
> >
> ...


 
 Just confirming after burn-in & longer listening that this Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86 is certainly my best tube, followed by Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8, Amperex OG GAC 6DJ8/ECC88, Siemens PCC189/7ES8, Miniwatt-Dario PCC189/ECC189... and so on...


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> I know that many audiophiles want that thingy but I still haven`t got the point of it and really don`t care about it. Personally I think there`s nothing short about Aune T1 being non-asynchronous dac
> 
> Well, I read littlebit about it and here`s short explanation for those who don`t know yet what it is: http://www.hifi-advice.com/USB-synchronous-asynchronous-info.html
> 
> Still, I don`t belive it makes any noticeable difference when Aune T1 could have this asynchronous thing.




+1


----------



## penmarker

I'm so jealous of you guys here. 
 Not only my unit is faulty (channel imbalance, left channel louder) but the channel imbalance seems to make my tubes damage easily on the left channel. It must be feeding extra juice into the left channel of the tube or something. This is my 2nd tube and it's already showing signs of damage. When it's cold it has distortion on the left channel and goes away after warming up.


----------



## CoiL

That`s sad to hear ;( You should really send your unit to Aune for repair or find a great electrician who could fix it. If I were you, I would stop using it and save tubes. Hope you get your T1 fixed fast!


----------



## shaocaholica

coil said:


> I know that many audiophiles want that thingy but I still haven`t got the point of it and really don`t care about it. Personally I think there`s nothing short about Aune T1 being non-asynchronous dac
> 
> Well, I read littlebit about it and here`s short explanation for those who don`t know yet what it is: http://www.hifi-advice.com/USB-synchronous-asynchronous-info.html
> 
> Still, I don`t belive it makes any noticeable difference when Aune T1 could have this asynchronous thing.


 
  
 Sometimes those technical ramblings sound fine at first until you get to the end when you get this stuff:
  
 "When using a PC as source, having very precise, very correct sound can be too much of a good thing if the source computer already sounds thin or when the rest of your system tends to the overanalytical."
  
Wut?


----------



## CoiL

Yeah, found that sentence also weird but point remains the same... at least for me... Aune T1 is just find as it is 
  
 Btw, a lot of Ultron PCC189`s on sale: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390660961211?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
 Unfortunately they are not gold labeled SQ`s, I asked from seller. But they should be white labels and they are also very good imo. I have 2 white label Ultron PCC189`s, like them very much.


----------



## Paspie

Weird occurrence today: my unit seems to be faintly cracking, combined with the sound stuttering every 5 seconds. I've tried both my tubes and I'm getting the same result, so I assume it's something to do with the amp. I'll leave it a few days and if it persists I'll request further attention.


----------



## Ophiel

Sometimes I get the stuttering thing but it goes away after restarting the PC, so it's not the t1


----------



## CoiL

paspie said:


> Weird occurrence today: my unit seems to be faintly cracking, combined with the sound stuttering every 5 seconds. I've tried both my tubes and I'm getting the same result, so I assume it's something to do with the amp. I'll leave it a few days and if it persists I'll request further attention.


 
 I think it comes from latency/buffer. Are you using WASAPI, ASIO or KSP? When I set buffer too low and music is high in detail, it starts to crackle and stutter.


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> I think it comes from latency/buffer. Are you using WASAPI, ASIO or KSP? When I set buffer too low and music is high in detail, it starts to crackle and stutter.




I get stuttering primarily when I am using FLAC Player. I play almost everything from iOS devices. I don't know where the buffer is located to re set it. I don't have the problem with 320 Kbps mp3s. I will have to do some reading to figure this out.


----------



## CoiL

Can`t help you with iOS but in windows using KSP or ASIO (ASIO4ALL) it`s easy to do. You can adjust buffer amount and size. I think it was down to 256 and less when it started to crackle & stutter @ my PC. I just left it at default in ASIO4LL. Depends also RAM and CPU speed too, my PC is just downclocked most of time and don`t bother to upclock it every time for music listening. When it`s @ overclocked state it will also play FLAC`s clean @ 256 or even less but it`s not important actually for listening. It`s important when you are recording or playing live through MIDI/softsynth, otherwise no need to set latency/buffer so low.
  
 Edit: 
  
 Got my 4x PCC189 today. Haven`t tried them yet but will keep you updated. Factory codes are on pic:

  
 The other Siemens PCC189 that I have talked about earlier in this thread (that sounded very good) is coded IP1 B7C3, so it`s different from those I got now.
 The one I already had before is probably Mullard Blackburn but those "new" are Siemens & Halske München.


----------



## Paspie

It has stopped today. I'm currently using the default audio driver with openSUSE (Linux) which happens to be ALSA. The crackle/stutter was happening with _all _audio signals. I even restarted the PC with no success with the amp. But for some reason it's sorted itself out now.


----------



## flipteg

does anyone else notice how recessed the vocals are on the Aune T1 with the stock 6922EH? this is my first headphone amp and i do not consider myself an audiophile but with the stock tube, the vocals are so recessed that i end up turning the volume louder than necessary to hear the vocals. this gives me listening fatigue very quickly. headphones is a Shure SRH1840. as i mentioned, this is my first headphone amp and i have no prior experience with tubes. in the case of the Aune T1, what would be the best tubes for a better vocal range? Would it even make a big difference?


----------



## MrEleventy

Amperex Orange Globe (6DJ8) for a cheap solution
Amperex 7308 being the expensive choice. Warms up the mids and pushes them forward a bit.


----------



## CoiL

flipteg said:


> does anyone else notice how recessed the vocals are on the Aune T1 with the stock 6922EH? this is my first headphone amp and i do not consider myself an audiophile but with the stock tube, the vocals are so recessed that i end up turning the volume louder than necessary to hear the vocals. this gives me listening fatigue very quickly. headphones is a Shure SRH1840. as i mentioned, this is my first headphone amp and i have no prior experience with tubes. in the case of the Aune T1, what would be the best tubes for a better vocal range? Would it even make a big difference?


 
 One question, are you using Aune T1 as AMP only or in AMP/DAC (tube buffered) mode? If you use it only in amp mode then tube wont take a part in audio chain. For tube you need to use USB input. 
  
 But yeah, 6922 is only good for EDM, EAM music since it has large soundstage with sparkly highs and lot of air. If you want great vocals, go for Amperex 7308, Amperex orange globe 6dj8/ecc88 (Heerlen Holland), Siemens PCC88/7DJ8 (S & H München), Siemens PCC189/7ES8 (Mullard Blackburn), Ultron SQ PCC189 (Bharat India), Amperex orange globe 6gm8/ecc86 (Heerlen Holland), Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen Holland), Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 & ECC189 and some more options...
  
 Maybe if you could give more exact description what else you feel need to be better, then I could recommend more precise.
  
 Edit: 


coil said:


> Got my 4x PCC189 today. Haven`t tried them yet but will keep you updated. Factory codes are on pic:
> 
> 
> The other Siemens PCC189 that I have talked about earlier in this thread (that sounded very good) is coded IP1 B7C3, so it`s different from those I got now.
> The one I already had before is probably Mullard Blackburn but those "new" are Siemens & Halske München.


 
 Sorry, misread those codes, #1 Valvo is IP2 delta1B3 and #2 Valvo is IP8 delta7A4.


----------



## flipteg

what do you all think of the Genalex Gold Lion compared to my stock 6922? Amperex 7308 is a bit expensive. yes, i am using it as a DAC and amp for my computer.


----------



## CoiL

Better get NOS Amperex orange globe 6DJ8/ECC88 if you are more into vocals, less expensive too.


----------



## Paspie

In my setup (6922EH + Koss Pro 3aa) the low-end seems a little too fleshed out, almost to the point of overpowering the mids and highs. I really like the detail in the bass but I just wish it was a little 'quieter'. That said, I may have my gain controls in the wrong place, I don't really understand how to use those or how to adjust them to suit my headphones best.


----------



## CoiL

Paspie, only 2 pages back: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/3030#post_9898948
  
 6922EH bass is extended, goes deep but is too loose. About mids, I think they are just laid back with this tube and large soundstage isn`t helping it either. Though, personally I think this tube sounds great with EDM & EAM.


----------



## teb1013

mreleventy said:


> Amperex Orange Globe (6DJ8) for a cheap solution
> Amperex 7308 being the expensive choice. Warms up the mids and pushes them forward a bit.




Interestingly Upscale Audio charges $80 USD for the Amperex 6DJ8 and $75 for the Amperex 7308. The "driver grade" 7308 is $50, hardly cheap but a good saving on a great tube (the T1 works fine with Driver Grade). For those not in the US however, I gather that Upscale charges large amounts for international shipping.


----------



## CoiL

I really wish to get my hands & ears on 7308 to get an idea and give impressions vs. my best tubes. I hope I won`t be disappointed when I get that chance. 
 Amperex 6DJ8 steel pin is actually very respected tube everywhere and that`s why they are selling it with that price I belive. It`s not rare tube but to get a high-grade one is getting harder and harder.


----------



## hojomojo96

I can now add the Aune T1 to my signature, woo! My "sale" finally came through, proud to be a T1 owner with the rest of you!


----------



## ethan7000

Hey guys, where's the best place to buy tubes? Is vacuumtubes.net ok?  Also, does the T1 auto-bias (is it plug and play when changing tubes?)
  
 Much appreciated.


----------



## MrEleventy

+1, Dale at vacuumtubes.net is a great guy to deal with. I use ebay myself mostly because driver grade tubes are all you really need. No need for the higher grades.


----------



## ethan7000

mreleventy said:


> +1, Dale at vacuumtubes.net is a great guy to deal with. I use ebay myself mostly because driver grade tubes are all you really need. No need for the higher grades.



Thank you! Do you know if the T1 auto-biases tubes (is it plug and play when changing tubes?)


----------



## MrEleventy

It's plug and play. never changed any setting between tube rolls.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Does a tube amp still color the sound with headphones that don't need an amp?  I am wondering if I will see any benefit with my Sony MDR 7506 headphones.


----------



## teb1013

transmaniacon said:


> Does a tube amp still color the sound with headphones that don't need an amp?  I am wondering if I will see any benefit with my Sony MDR 7506 headphones.




Welcome to HeadFi. I don't know much about the 7506 except that they are closed headphones. With that said, there is a difference between headphones that don't need an amp and those that won't benefit from one. An i device will drive my HD558s alright. They don't need an amp but the T1 brings them alive and gives them a whole new dimension. Yes, I get the tube sound (depending on which tube I'm using) even though they don't "need" the dac/amp to run. Your best bet is to use the search function to look for 7506 user threads and see what people say about the benefits, if any, of amping this particular headphone. Good luck.


----------



## CoiL

transmaniacon said:


> Does a tube amp still color the sound with headphones that don't need an amp?  I am wondering if I will see any benefit with my Sony MDR 7506 headphones.


 
 Aune T1 is not tube amp! It is SS amp + DAC and only the DAC part uses tube as buffer. To use benefits of tube sound with Aune T1 you must use USB input.


----------



## CoiL

Spoiler: tubes



  





> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Got my 4x PCC189 today. Haven`t tried them yet but will keep you updated. Factory codes are on pic:
> ...








>


 
 Haven`t got time to rest enough and test them against other tubes but tube nr2 is "worst" out of them. It`s not bad but it sounds kind of "thin" and foward. This is my first Heerlen tube that does not impress me much. "Best" tube out of them is nr1 but Siemens tubes are also good, just different sound signature. More detailed impressions in future...


----------



## flipteg

I ordered a new Genalex Gold Lion from Amazon and an old Amperex orange globe GAC from eBay. I got them both today. In terms of vocals, the Genalex is very similar to the stock 6922EH but the Genalex has a noticeably tighter bass. I really like the orange globe. The vocals is much more forward but the bass is not as much as the other tubes. I don't mind it at all though since I'm not too big into bass. It just seems to me the orange globe has a flatter response than the other 2


----------



## CoiL

Can you take a pic of your Amperex OG GAC and give factory code? Imho GAC is very dynamical & warm sounding tube with great mids section and "middle-sized" soundstage. I don`t know what your exactly mean under "flatter response than the other 2" but for me it`s more "colored" than 6922EH. Bass isn`t so loose and extended as 6922EH, it`s just about right amount... tightness might be little better but it`s ok and doesn`t bother me.


----------



## ethan7000

coil said:


> Can you take a pic of your Amperex OG GAC and give factory code? Imho GAC is very dynamical & warm sounding tube with great mids section and "middle-sized" soundstage. I don`t know what your exactly mean under "flatter response than the other 2" but for me it`s more "colored" than 6922EH. Bass isn`t so loose and extended as 6922EH, it`s just about right amount... tightness might be little better but it`s ok and doesn`t bother me.



What does GAC stand for?


----------



## GirgleMirt

From the AKG 550 thread, http://www.head-fi.org/t/613707/the-akg-k550-appreciation-discussion-thread/930#post_9923464   I think it's quite relevant to this thread, what do you guys think?  I'm using the stock standard tube with my T1:
  
  
  



> Quote:
> 
> 
> inasafeplace said:
> ...


----------



## CoiL

GirgleMirt, great info. Thanks for sharing. Useful for those who want to pull trigger on Aune T1 

 ethan7000, please read Salvatore`s useful info how to interpret tube codes: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294


----------



## CoiL

coil said:


> Jipan, read my comments and links about 6GM8. Works like charm and sound is just mind-blowing-holographic ;P It`s been burning-in and playing already over 48h and it got better too. First was not sure about bass performance but it`s now certainly tight and dynamic.
> 
> 
> >
> ...


 
 Have to take back my words about bass performance. After some more FLAC listening with different genres I must say that this tube still has underpowered bass. All the other impressions stay the same - freaking holographic BUT bass is weak. I mean when I concentrate on bass listening it`s quite tight and dynamic but it`s just laid back and weak. Still, one of my best tubes but don`t recommend it to bass hungry/needy ppl. Who knows, maybe it`s just tube reaching towards end of life and losing bass.
 To sum it up, Ultron SQ PCC189 (Bharat India), Amperex OG GAC (Heerlen Holland), Siemens PCC189 (Blackburn England), Siemens PCC88, Miniwatt-Dario PCC189 (Heerlen Holland), Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 (Chartres France), JAN Sylvania 6922 (US, Green label) are still my fav tubes. Actually there are more tubes that I like with certain music but those I mentioned are finding most use 
  
 Edit: Just a reminder from nighttime tube pics thread how to make your Aune T1 tune nicer glowing:


coil said:


> I took my red plastic from usual A4 paper filing covers: https://www.office365.co.uk/P/211710/Leitz-Standard-Data-Files-Semi-rigid-PVC-Clear-Front-20mm-Title-Strip-A4-Red-Ref-4191-00-25-Pack-25
> I cut it so, that circle is 2mm larger than pins-circle and made holes to that plastic so pins go through it and that plastic will "stick" to tube and it doesn`t fall off if removing tube.
> If you are crazy tube-roller like I am then it`s great method to mark different tubes for different genres, for example red plastic for rock/metal/progressive/jazz and yellow plastic for EDM/EAM, green plastic for movies/dialogue, orange plastic for classic etc.
> 
> Don`t forget to post pics to Aune T1 thread.


 
  
 Edit:
 Btw, revisited my Brimar PCC189`s that I haven`t spoken much about. These tubes sound good with acoustic guitar & rock. They are coded IP1 B2J5 & IP1 B2J4, Mullard Blackburn England. My Siemens PCC189 is also Mullard Blackburn (IP1 B7C3) but it sounds littlebit different and better, littlebit wider and rounder soundstage, clearer, more detailed and better separation. Differences are actually small, maybe it comes from different burn time. Anyway, good tubes.


----------



## richard51

_Hello to all of you._ I must say that in experimenting with the marvellous tube dac Aune t1 ( with an orange globe 6dj8 tube), i decide to bypass his internal amp with an external one : the pa2v2. The pa2v2 is a minimal cost in money and remarkable sound for the money.... The results are marvellous..... the soundstage is better , the global image more intense, the sound  of the he 400 headphone less harsh.... Before this change i have thinked about equalizing... no urgent need for eq now....  The hifiman he 400 sounded more vividly with this modification....... I think that the aune T1 is more a  marvellous tube dac than a marvellous  amp .... Certainly for the price this tube dac is  a great gear.......thank you to all of us ...


----------



## jam3s121

Hey guys, I am looking for something to replace my computers sound card due to me getting a smaller form factor system that won't have room for a sound card and two large graphics cards..
  
 I currently use a titanium hd sound card and am looking for something just as good or better for $250 or less.. I was originally thinking the magni/mod to replace but someone also recommended this aune t1 usb dac.
  
 My headphones are
 V-Moda M100s mainly used 75% of the time, I listen to all genres of dance music, I love these cans after trying dt770's and sennheiser hd25-II. I am considering getting a900x's though after testing.
 ATH AD700 (gaming occassionly usually only for fps games..)


----------



## MrEleventy

richard51 said:


> [COLOR=000000]_Hello to all of you._[/COLOR] I must say that in experimenting with the marvellous tube dac Aune t1 ( with an orange globe 6dj8 tube), i decide to bypass his internal amp with an external one : the pa2v2. The pa2v2 is a minimal cost in money and remarkable sound for the money.... The results are marvellous..... the soundstage is better , the global image more intense, the sound  of the he 400 headphone less harsh.... Before this change i have thinked about equalizing... no urgent need for eq now....  The hifiman he 400 sounded more vividly with this modification....... I think that the aune T1 is more a  marvellous tube dac than a marvellous  amp .... Certainly for the price this tube dac is  a great gear.......thank you to all of us ...


I ran it for a short time myself as an all-in-one but tacked on an O2 shortly after. With my hps (DT880), it was a great improvement. Not long after that, I moved onto a Darkvoice 336. I love the combination. Will probably end up keeping the T1 as a DAC for a long time.


----------



## MrEleventy

jam3s121 said:


> Hey guys, I am looking for something to replace my computers sound card due to me getting a smaller form factor system that won't have room for a sound card and two large graphics cards..
> 
> I currently use a titanium hd sound card and am looking for something just as good or better for $250 or less.. I was originally thinking the magni/mod to replace but someone also recommended this aune t1 usb dac.
> 
> ...


Gaming is going to suffer using an external dac, unless it's designed for gaming. Most dacs are stereo so you'll lose out on the positional cues from the 5.1 that the internal cards + software will process for you. You might be able to downmix to a PCM stereo output in game but I'm not sure if it'll work or even be effective enough. You might want to look into a mixamp or a Asus Xonar U3 for gaming.


----------



## CoiL

Spoiler: Pic & code about GAC






flipteg said:


> I ordered a new Genalex Gold Lion from Amazon and an old Amperex orange globe GAC from eBay. I got them both today. In terms of vocals, the Genalex is very similar to the stock 6922EH but the Genalex has a noticeably tighter bass. I really like the orange globe. The vocals is much more forward but the bass is not as much as the other tubes. I don't mind it at all though since I'm not too big into bass. It just seems to me the orange globe has a flatter response than the other 2


 


coil said:


> *Can you take a pic of your Amperex OG GAC and give factory code? *Imho GAC is very dynamical & warm sounding tube with great mids section and "middle-sized" soundstage. I don`t know what your exactly mean under "flatter response than the other 2" but for me it`s more "colored" than 6922EH. Bass isn`t so loose and extended as 6922EH, it`s just about right amount... tightness might be little better but it`s ok and doesn`t bother me.





 Still interested about that code and pic... if possible? 
  


richard51 said:


> _Hello to all of you._ I must say that in experimenting with the marvellous tube dac Aune t1 ( with an orange globe 6dj8 tube), i decide to bypass his internal amp with an external one : the pa2v2. The pa2v2 is a minimal cost in money and remarkable sound for the money.... The results are marvellous..... the soundstage is better , the global image more intense, the sound  of the he 400 headphone less harsh.... Before this change i have thinked about equalizing... no urgent need for eq now....  The hifiman he 400 sounded more vividly with this modification....... I think that the aune T1 is more a  marvellous tube dac than a marvellous  amp .... Certainly for the price this tube dac is  a great gear.......thank you to all of us ...


 
  
 After reading your post, also decided to try external amp for cans. Not that HD-681 need any juice, just to test sound improvement.
 pa2v2 will be my first choice atm as it`s cheap and reading from internet, slightly warm-sided. 
 Still, any other cheap recommendations to try out? cMoy 2.03 no competition against pa2v2 in terms of sound quality?


----------



## richard51

coil said:


> Spoiler: Pic & code about GAC
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I think the amp of the Aune t1 is minimal.... The pa2v2 is an improvement for me and the he 400... I dream to experiment with a higher gear than the pa2v2....I think that it will cost money to replace the tube dac aune t1 with higher gear...... The dac tube is really a deal for his price..... But the amp is minimal and its easy with not great cost to improve the amp......salutations to Mr. Coil and Eleventy...


----------



## MrEleventy

Coil: Look for ClieOS's portable amp shoot out. He has one for $ >100. cMoy and pa2v2 I think is up there.


----------



## jam3s121

mreleventy said:


> Gaming is going to suffer using an external dac, unless it's designed for gaming. Most dacs are stereo so you'll lose out on the positional cues from the 5.1 that the internal cards + software will process for you. You might be able to downmix to a PCM stereo output in game but I'm not sure if it'll work or even be effective enough. You might want to look into a mixamp or a Asus Xonar U3 for gaming.


 

 well in all honesty when I game with my audio technica ath ad700's I typically have my soundcard set to the "entertainment stereo mode".. my soundcard does have a gaming mode with some type of software that does 5.1 but it doesn't necessarily help. I'm more concerned with best possible music quality. I'm just wondering how it could possibly make my vmoda m100s sound better


----------



## diaBoliQu3

What warm sounding amp would you guys suggested within O2amp price? My Aune T1 + HD 600 can be to bright sometime and I read that the amp is the culprit. Thinking of changing to warmer one. Crack definitely out of my league.


----------



## MrEleventy

Fiio E09/k would work. M stage if you find a used one can be had for around 150. And the o2 might be dark enough when compared to the t1s amp.


----------



## GirgleMirt

Why not just look for a warmer tube?





diaboliqu3 said:


> What warm sounding amp would you guys suggested within O2amp price? My Aune T1 + HD 600 can be to bright sometime and I read that the amp is the culprit. Thinking of changing to warmer one. Crack definitely out of my league.


----------



## ethan7000

Is there a tube that brings out vocals more than the 6dj8 orange globe?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

mreleventy said:


> Fiio E09/k would work. M stage if you find a used one can be had for around 150. And the o2 might be dark enough when compared to the t1s amp.


 
 I see... Thanks. Will look for O2 to borrow for testing purpose...
  


girglemirt said:


> Why not just look for a warmer tube?


 
 Tube will really affect the sound? Tube aren't that expensive right? Well, if tube can change the sound to less bright, why not. What tube you recommend then sir?


----------



## soulkeeper

I have some spare tubes of the 12AU7 "family"/series...As someone answered me before,these unfortunately are not compatible with Aune T1...
  
 So my question is: Is there any similar product (tube dac+HP amplifier) ,in the same price range,which is compatible with 12AU7 tubes?
  
 Thanks!


----------



## MrEleventy

ethan7000 said:


> Is there a tube that brings out vocals more than the 6dj8 orange globe?


 Amperex 7308 would be the upgrade of their 6dj8, maybe that might work. Or look for a Brimar or Mullard. They tend to be on the warm side.




diaboliqu3 said:


> I see... Thanks. Will look for O2 to borrow for testing purpose...
> 
> Tube will really affect the sound? Tube aren't that expensive right? Well, if tube can change the sound to less bright, why not. What tube you recommend then sir?


Give the Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 a try, should be about $10-20 shipped on ebay. Probably the cheapest solution.



jam3s121 said:


> well in all honesty when I game with my audio technica ath ad700's I typically have my soundcard set to the "entertainment stereo mode".. my soundcard does have a gaming mode with some type of software that does 5.1 but it doesn't necessarily help. I'm more concerned with best possible music quality. I'm just wondering how it could possibly make my vmoda m100s sound better


 I don't think it will. The m100s are pretty sensitive and efficient, I don't think amping will help or hurt it. I don't notice any difference when I amp/not amp my m-80s and the T1 didn't make the highs sound better which I was looking for. V-modas are pretty, "What you hear is what you get" with their tuning. It's a DJ type can so warm and smooth highs are where it excels on.

E:


soulkeeper said:


> I have some spare tubes of the 12AU7 "family"/series...As someone answered me before,these unfortunately are not compatible with Aune T1...
> 
> So my question is: Is there any similar product (tube dac+HP amplifier) ,in the same price range,which is compatible with 12AU7 tubes?
> 
> Thanks!


 Only thing I can find that fits is this LINK


----------



## ethan7000

mreleventy said:


> Amperex 7308 would be the upgrade of their 6dj8, maybe that might work. Or look for a Brimar or Mullard. They tend to be on the warm side.


 
 I noticed you're going tube DAC to tube amp - what is the effect of "doubling up" on tubes in this way?


----------



## teb1013

Take a look at the thread starter, this has been expanded to include Salvatore's tube reviews and other materials are must reads. Also check out CoiL's posts. I find the Amperex 7308 a great tube and use it all the time but it cost me $50 (driver grade, from Upscale Audio).


----------



## soulkeeper

>


 
  


mreleventy said:


> E:
> Only thing I can find that fits is this LINK


 
 Thanks!
 I'll contact the seller..(it seems it has tube amp section instead of the ss of the T1)


----------



## MrEleventy

ethan7000 said:


> I noticed you're going tube DAC to tube amp - what is the effect of "doubling up" on tubes in this way?


The differences in rolling the tubedac are kinda subtle, the tube amp will amplify those changes and from there, I can fine tune it a bit. The Amperex Orange Globe pushes the mids forward but rolls off the treble and bass, I have a pair of tubes in the DV336 that enhances that so it balances out. And at times, I'll roll in the TFK PCC189 which flattens out everything so it's neutral and all I get is the benefits of the DV336. It's hardware EQing basically that's system wide.


----------



## MrEleventy

soulkeeper said:


> Thanks!
> I'll contact the seller..(it seems it has tube amp section instead of the ss of the T1)


Oh, boo.  Then I don't know. I only know of 3 other tube dacs and they don't use 12au7s. Maverick Tubemagic (5670), Grant Fidelity Tubedac (6dj8), and the MDHT Havana (5670).


----------



## diaBoliQu3

mreleventy said:


> Give the Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 a try, should be about $10-20 shipped on ebay. Probably the cheapest solution.


 
 Should be a significant upgrade? I'd been googling and I get this:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_kw=Amperex+6DJ8+ECC88+Orange+Globe+Tubes+Matched+Quad
  
 http://www.ebay.com/bhp/amperex-6dj8-ecc88
  
  There's a lot of 6DJ8, which one to get huh? Very new in tube. And, got different sound for different ''series''? And is it the same with the tube that TS used, *RCA labeled Amperex 6dj8/E88cc. *


----------



## jam3s121

mreleventy said:


> . The m100s are pretty sensitive and efficient, I don't think amping will help or hurt it. I don't notice any difference when I amp/not amp my m-80s and the T1 didn't make the highs sound better which I was looking for. V-modas are pretty, "What you hear is what you get" with their tuning. It's a DJ type can so warm and smooth highs are where it excels on.


 
  
 So as long as I have a good DAC my v-moda m100's will pretty much as good as they are now with a titanium hd soundcard?


----------



## MrEleventy

jam3s121 said:


> So as long as I have a good DAC my v-moda m100's will pretty much as good as they are now with a titanium hd soundcard?


Pretty much. The HP itself will make up 90-95% of what you're hearing. dacs, amps, cables, etc will make up the other 5-10%. Nothing you buy will make it instantly become godly hps so if you like what you have, just make sure the dac/source is clean and you're good to go. Try a Fiio E17. Can be found for around 100, has hardware EQ. Neutral so it doesn't color the sound can be used as a portable amp. It's a swiss army knife of sorts. I still keep it around for other uses like, plugging into my TV or 360 for HP output w/o buying a gimmicky headset.


----------



## CoiL

diaboliqu3 said:


> mreleventy said:
> 
> 
> > Give the Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 a try, should be about $10-20 shipped on ebay. Probably the cheapest solution.
> ...


 
 Please start reading Salvatore`s collected info: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294

The Amperex we are talking about is with Orange Globe logo (referred as OG). Then there`s also different factory codes that sound littlebit different. For me GAC is best, then GA8, then GAG and then GAE.


----------



## jam3s121

mreleventy said:


> Pretty much. The HP itself will make up 90-95% of what you're hearing. dacs, amps, cables, etc will make up the other 5-10%. Nothing you buy will make it instantly become godly hps so if you like what you have, just make sure the dac/source is clean and you're good to go. Try a Fiio E17. Can be found for around 100, has hardware EQ. Neutral so it doesn't color the sound can be used as a portable amp. It's a swiss army knife of sorts. I still keep it around for other uses like, plugging into my TV or 360 for HP output w/o buying a gimmicky headset.


 

 thanks man, maybe in the future I can get around to buying a pair of ATH A900x's like I want and get a real tube amp like this.


----------



## hojomojo96

jam3s121 said:


> thanks man, maybe in the future I can get around to buying a pair of ATH A900x's like I want and get a real tube amp like this.


 
 Just a heads up, this is a tube DAC with a SS amp.


----------



## CoiL

To be accurate, it`s SS amp + SS tube buffered DAC 
  
 Here`s one GAC with good price @ US: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-ECC88-6DJ8-HOLLAND-DIMPLE-GETTER-GAC-SERIES-TEST-NOS-/331052375320?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4d14425d18


----------



## mhamel

Just picked up one a T1 yesterday, very happy with it so far.
  
 I was not at all impressed with the stock EH6922 tube, but I've been rolling in a bunch of others to try out and some are outstanding.
  
 I've had a Lyr for a while now and have accumulated a ton of tubes that are compatible with it (over 1100 at this point) and was looking for an inexpensive second tube amp that wouldn't require different tubes.
  
 There are some additional tubes that should work in the T1 that aren't on the FAQ..._ _I'll try out some of what I've got and list them out if they work if anyone's curious/interested?
  
  
    -Mike


----------



## ethan7000

mhamel said:


> Just picked up one a T1 yesterday, very happy with it so far.
> 
> I was not at all impressed with the stock EH6922 tube, but I've been rolling in a bunch of others to try out and some are outstanding.
> 
> ...


 

 Yes please! I find the 6922EH to be good and not very different from a 6DJ8 orange globe - interesting that you don't like it.  Which phones are you testing with currently?


----------



## mhamel

ethan7000 said:


> Yes please! I find the 6922EH to be good and not very different from a 6DJ8 orange globe - interesting that you don't like it.  Which phones are you testing with currently?


 
  
 Ethan,
  
 I'm using a pair of Beyer DT-990/250s right now.    I sold my LCD-2 earlier this year to fund some planar speakers, so the Beyers are currently my go-to cans.
  
 To my ears, with these headphones, the 6922EH that the amp came with sounds thin on the low end.  It's got some extension but lacks weight.  I find it generally cold-sounding, and pretty harsh in the highs.  
  
 For the past few hours I've had an ORTF-selected 1972 RTC PCC85 (Mfg by Philips in Holland) tube in and it sounds very good. 
  
 A few other things I've rolled through today that I've liked.
  
 1959 GE (Philips/Holland) D-Getter 6ES8 -  Warm without being overly lush, very smooth yet detailed. Beautiful mids.
 1965 RCA (Mullard/Blackburn) Large O-Getter 6ES8 - similar to above, a bit more bass, bit more treble extension, a bit warmer.
 Tungsram PCC189 - need to spend some more time with this one, initial impression was pretty good.
  
  
    -Mike


----------



## isendono

mhamel said:


> Ethan,
> 
> I'm using a pair of Beyer DT-990/250s right now.    I sold my LCD-2 earlier this year to fund some planar speakers, so the Beyers are currently my go-to cans.
> 
> ...


 
 So, is PCC85 tube compatible with Aune T1?


----------



## mhamel

isendono said:


> So, is PCC85 tube compatible with Aune T1?


 
  
 ECC85 and PCC85 work in it, the PCC85 runs pretty far out of spec on the heater voltage (It's a 9v heater), but the one mentioned above sounds very good.
  
 I've also got some other PCC85s that I haven't tried yet.
  
 Philips and Mullard 1974s (Herleen)1
 1965 Philips (Herleen)
 Mazda (unsure of date)
 70s Matsu****a (Japan)
 Late 50s/very early 60s Mullard Blackburn and Amperex Herleen
 Mid-late 60s Telefunken Berlin.
  
    -Mike


----------



## diaBoliQu3

ethan7000 said:


> Yes please! I find the 6922EH to be good and not very different from a 6DJ8 orange globe - interesting that you don't like it.  Which phones are you testing with currently?


 
 Mine is 6922 too. So changing to 6DJ8 are not very different?


----------



## ethan7000

diaboliqu3 said:


> Mine is 6922 too. So changing to 6DJ8 are not very different?



They are similar tubes, how different they are in sound is subjective.


----------



## frenki

Hey guys I'm new to this forum. I've recently purchased a pair of Centrance Masterclass 2504 speakers (passive) and the Reserve Series Speaker Cables (binding-post). I originally planned to use Aune T1 as the amplifier for the speakers but due to my inexperience, I mix up the plugs and the set-up. The spekaers use banana plugs (or binding-post) while Aune T1 use RCA as audio out. I am now using iMac USB line-in to Aune-T1 as the USB DAC. I would like to ask the following questions:
  
 1. If I use USB line-in, does that mean I cannot use the amplifier inside Aune-T1?
 2. Is the Aune-T1 powerful enough to push the speakers? Or an extra amp is required/recommended? If so, any cheap options?
 3. If Aune-T1 is powerful enough, can I simply use a binding-post to RCA adaptor for the connection?
  
 Thank you so much in advance for answering my questions! Much appreciated.


----------



## Brendo09

frenki said:


> Hey guys I'm new to this forum. I've recently purchased a pair of Centrance Masterclass 2504 speakers (passive) and the Reserve Series Speaker Cables (binding-post). I originally planned to use Aune T1 as the amplifier for the speakers but due to my inexperience, I mix up the plugs and the set-up. The spekaers use banana plugs (or binding-post) while Aune T1 use RCA as audio out. I am now using iMac USB line-in to Aune-T1 as the USB DAC. I would like to ask the following questions:
> 
> 1. If I use USB line-in, does that mean I cannot use the amplifier inside Aune-T1?
> 2. Is the Aune-T1 powerful enough to push the speakers? Or an extra amp is required/recommended? If so, any cheap options?
> ...


 
  
 Frenki, I think you're mistaking just what the T1 can do.
  
 The T1 is a USB DAC, and a solid state headphone amp. 
  
 The RCA jacks on the back are for sending audio that has been converted by the DAC to an amplifier. When you use the line out (the RCA) the volume pot has no effect, it just controls the output to the headphones. 
  
 You can't, if I'm understanding this correctly, power a speaker from the RCA jacks.
  
 So you're going to need an amp as well that can drive your speakers. That's how I have mine set up. RCA out -> Muse M20 t-amp (20watts for $50) -> bookshelf speakers. It works a treat providing you don't need it super loud. 
  
 Hope that helps.


----------



## CoiL

diaboliqu3 said:


> ethan7000 said:
> 
> 
> > Yes please! I find the 6922EH to be good and not very different from a 6DJ8 orange globe - interesting that you don't like it.  Which phones are you testing with currently?
> ...


 
 6922EH and Amperex OG are *VERY* different sounding tubes! At least with my cans (HD-681 with Frans mkII hardware filter + custom pads + re-cabling) I can tell huge difference in every aspect.

 Mike, about PCC85 ...I didn`t add this to the tube list since it`s heater requirements are too high and many out of PCC85 might sound "underpowered" or "distorted". Also I think some PCC85
 datasheet required also too high mA draw, not sure but it might do bad for Aune T1.


----------



## ethan7000

coil said:


> 6922EH and Amperex OG are *VERY* different sounding tubes!



I disagree. Can you post the data sheets for both tubes?


----------



## CoiL

Datasheets? Why you need them? Look from the internet for tube datasheets(Frank`s tube database for example). Datasheets don`t tell the difference, your ears do. There`s been a lot talk about 6922EH and Amperex OG in this thread and you are honestly 1st guy who tells they are "same" sounding! Use search.I don`t know what setup you have besides Aune T1 but those tubes are totally different in soundstage, tightness, mids, warmness, smoothed highs, transparency, separation etc. Use thread search and you`ll find a lot of same impressions.


----------



## frenki

brendo09 said:


> Frenki, I think you're mistaking just what the T1 can do.
> 
> The T1 is a USB DAC, and a solid state headphone amp.
> 
> ...


 
 Thank you so much! It certainly helps! I will look for an economic option then and will certainly consider Muse M20 t-amp.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Guys, anyone tried this:
  


> Amperex ECC88 Bugle Boy second hand 1960s vintage tube


 
  
 Or OG is still the recommended? I find a good deal with above tube.  Well, I don't have ebay account or credit card and paypal. But I don't mind using someone service to get the tube from ebay if it's worth it.


----------



## ethan7000

coil said:


> Datasheets? Why you need them? Look from the internet for tube datasheets(Frank`s tube database for example). Datasheets don`t tell the difference, your ears do. There`s been a lot talk about 6922EH and Amperex OG in this thread and you are honestly 1st guy who tells they are "same" sounding! Use search.I don`t know what setup you have besides Aune T1 but those tubes are totally different in soundstage, tightness, mids, warmness, smoothed highs, transparency, separation etc. Use thread search and you`ll find a lot of same impressions.



Similar =/= same. I'm pretty sure they are very close electronically, so it would make sense that they are close sonically.


----------



## Salvatore

I'm not here to argue about the sound differences because some of us hear differences between tubes and some of us don't. There are so many small things to be taken into consideration when doing critical listening that I'm not even going to start. I just want to note that during the golden years of tube technology there were no restrictions of what materials could be used in tube production. Therefore, tubes of today do not necessarily have the same materials as what the NOS tubes had. Some rare metals, for example, were then more readily available and weren't as expensive as today. NOS tubes were also designed for high end purposes (military/technology/medical uses) and lots of love and dedication went into the tube manufacturing (from refining to assembling).
  
  
_*The reality of NOS.*_
  

_Steel was really coming into it’s own around World War 1. Submarines needed metals that could be compressed at depth over and over. Airplanes need crankshafts that could stand up to their job. Metallurgy continued to improve. There were great steel companies such as US Steel in the USA, and the fine Swedish and Finnish steels. Today, most of the US steel companies are gone. The great controlled steel recipes are reserved for more critical applications such as aerospace or the automotive and aircraft industries, where a lawsuit is just around the corner. If a tube fails in an amp, who cares?

 Then, there is economics from a geographic point of view. The Russians are not cranking out defense equipment any more. They have no money. One batch of steel is completely different than the next batch. In Eastern Europe, it is the same when it comes to the quality control of metal alloys. There is little economic reason to have high quality control standards in a cheap vacuum tube.

 When tubes were used in scientific, medical, and defense equipment, quality was an issue. Today it is not an issue._

_*So, where does this get us?*_

_Today’s new tubes are very inconsistent. Their specs run plus to minus 50%. They are not linear (those plate alloys react differently as the frequency changes and heat changes for one thing), and they do not meet specification that were established in 1957. They may meet one spec, but only if you are lucky._
  
 http://www.tubefreak.com/tubesnos.htm
  
 -----
  
 Even though there are lots of tube measurements, electronics and frequency graphs available, I only trust my own ears.


----------



## ethan7000

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






salvatore said:


> I'm not here to argue about the sound differences because some of us hear differences between tubes and some of us don't. There are so many small things to be taken into consideration when doing critical listening that I'm not even going to start. I just want to note that during the golden years of tube technology there were no restrictions of what materials could be used in tube production. Therefore, tubes of today do not necessarily have the same materials as what the NOS tubes had. Some rare metals, for example, were then more readily available and weren't as expensive as today. NOS tubes were also designed for high end purposes (military/technology/medical uses) and lots of love and dedication went into the tube manufacturing (from refining to assembling).
> 
> 
> _*The reality of NOS.*_
> ...





 Great info, thank you Salvatore. I didn't mean to imply that there are no differences between tubes because I believe that there are.


----------



## mhamel

coil said:


> 6922EH and Amperex OG are *VERY* different sounding tubes! At least with my cans (HD-681 with Frans mkII hardware filter + custom pads + re-cabling) I can tell huge difference in every aspect.
> 
> Mike, about PCC85 ...I didn`t add this to the tube list since it`s heater requirements are too high and many out of PCC85 might sound "underpowered" or "distorted". Also I think some PCC85
> datasheet required also too high mA draw, not sure but it might do bad for Aune T1.


 
  
 CoiL - yes, I'm aware of the heater/current differences, which is why I don't mind being the guinea pig and testing it out.     I haven't taken the amp apart yet while it's got a PCC85 in it, but I have noticed no heat issues running the tubes for a good 12 hours yesterday. 
  
 The Mazda PCC85s I have do not play well in the T1, they are definitely underpowered and distorted.   The others that I have tried so far have worked and sounded great.   I'll continue to check through the others and note what I find.
  
 6FW8 should also work fine, it was RCA's equivalent to the 6DJ8, though they are hard to find and somewhat expensive from what I've seen.
  
 There are a few others as well, once I have a chance to run them through the T1 I'll update about them.
  
 Thanks,
   -Mike


----------



## CoiL

ethan7000 said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Datasheets? Why you need them? Look from the internet for tube datasheets(Frank`s tube database for example). Datasheets don`t tell the difference, your ears do. There`s been a lot talk about 6922EH and Amperex OG in this thread and you are honestly 1st guy who tells they are "same" sounding! Use search.I don`t know what setup you have besides Aune T1 but those tubes are totally different in soundstage, tightness, mids, warmness, smoothed highs, transparency, separation etc. Use thread search and you`ll find a lot of same impressions.
> ...


 
 ethan, If that would be true, then most of my tubes ( about 40 by now ) would sound "close / same" ...but they don`t. Tubes within same making batch might sound same, despite they being measured different and marked under different tube types but even tubes made month apart with materials from another supply batch could make difference. So, there`s practically little chance NOS tubes and nowdays produced tubes have same sound. Like Salvatore mentioned, differences between tubes is affected by many factors like hearing differences, different cans etc.
 Maybe you aren`t used to listen so critically or you cans match with Aune T1 doesn`t sound so analytical. Don`t take this comment bad way. At beginning of my Aune T1 tube hoarding I also didn`t make much difference. I had to be relaxed so I could concentrate on different aspects of tube sound. The more you do analytical listening, the more easily you understand tube differences.
 For me it became fun collecting those tubes and finding differences. Anyway, if everything sounds ok to your ears then it`s all you need 

  
 Thanks Mike, I added PCC85 and 6FW8 to the tube list post with little sidenote


----------



## mhamel

coil said:


> ethan, If that would be true, then most of my tubes ( about 40 by now ) would sound "close / same" ...but they don`t. Tubes within same making batch might sound same, despite they being measured different and marked under different tube types but even tubes made month apart with materials from another supply batch could make difference. So, there`s practically little chance NOS tubes and nowdays produced tubes have same sound. Like Salvatore mentioned, differences between tubes is affected by many factors like hearing differences, different cans etc.
> Maybe you aren`t used to listen so critically or you cans match with Aune T1 doesn`t sound so analytical. Don`t take this comment bad way. At beginning of my Aune T1 tube hoarding I also didn`t make much difference. I had to be relaxed so I could concentrate on different aspects of tube sound. The more you do analytical listening, the more easily you understand tube differences.
> For me it became fun collecting those tubes and finding differences. Anyway, if everything sounds ok to your ears then it`s all you need
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 CoiL - Sure, you're welcome   6BK7B, 6BQ7A and 6BZ7 should all work, but
  
 And, if anyone's interested, I have plenty of most types available to sell - need to get rid of some of the stash.  They include: 6ES8/ECC189, 7ES8/PCC189, 6AQ8/ECC85, 9AQ8/PCC85, PCC88/7DJ8, 6DJ8/ECC88, 6BK7B, 6BZ7, 6BQ7A and possibly some 6922/E88CC and E188CC/7308.   All are tested/matched on a modern digital tester (MaxiPreamp2).
  
    -Mike


----------



## isendono

mhamel said:


> CoiL - yes, I'm aware of the heater/current differences, which is why I don't mind being the guinea pig and testing it out.     I haven't taken the amp apart yet while it's got a PCC85 in it, but I have noticed no heat issues running the tubes for a good 12 hours yesterday.
> 
> The Mazda PCC85s I have do not play well in the T1, they are definitely underpowered and distorted.   The others that I have tried so far have worked and sounded great.   I'll continue to check through the others and note what I find.
> 
> ...


 
 Cool, Thanks !


----------



## CoiL

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote: 





mhamel said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > ethan, If that would be true, then most of my tubes ( about 40 by now ) would sound "close / same" ...but they don`t. Tubes within same making batch might sound same, despite they being measured different and marked under different tube types but even tubes made month apart with materials from another supply batch could make difference. So, there`s practically little chance NOS tubes and nowdays produced tubes have same sound. Like Salvatore mentioned, differences between tubes is affected by many factors like hearing differences, different cans etc.
> ...








>


 
 Any chance you have Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8 (Bharat India) in your stack?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

mhamel said:


> CoiL - Sure, you're welcome   6BK7B, 6BQ7A and 6BZ7 should all work, but
> 
> And, if anyone's interested, I have plenty of most types available to sell - need to get rid of some of the stash.  They include: 6ES8/ECC189, 7ES8/PCC189, 6AQ8/ECC85, 9AQ8/PCC85, PCC88/7DJ8, 6DJ8/ECC88, 6BK7B, 6BZ7, 6BQ7A and possibly some 6922/E88CC and E188CC/7308.   All are tested/matched on a modern digital tester (MaxiPreamp2).
> 
> -Mike


 
 E88CC and 7308 caught my attention.


----------



## mhamel

coil said:


> Any chance you have Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8 (Bharat India) in your stack?


 
  
 For Ultron-branded tubes:
  
I have 34 Ultron SQ (Bharat) ECC189, but I don't have them in PCC189.
I also have 35 Ultron ECC189 that are Siemens Halske late 60s/early 70s production.
  
   -Mike


----------



## CoiL

I want some of those Ultron SQ ECC189`s. Are you sure they are SQ`s and Bharat factory made? There are also non-SQ versions that are not made in India. My Ultron SQ PCC189`s are with golden label and made in Bharat India according to etched code. I`m really interested in those but depends how much is the posting cost to European Union ( Country - Estonia ). If posting cost isn`t very much would be interested in 2 of Bharat made and 2 of Siemens made. How much would you like to get for them? If you can tell me the posting cost and your price, then PM me. Thanks!


----------



## mhamel

coil said:


> I want some of those Ultron SQ ECC189`s. Are you sure they are SQ`s and Bharat factory made? There are also non-SQ versions that are not made in India. My Ultron SQ PCC189`s are with golden label and made in Bharat India according to etched code. I`m really interested in those but depends how much is the posting cost to European Union ( Country - Estonia ). If posting cost isn`t very much would be interested in 2 of Bharat made and 2 of Siemens made. How much would you like to get for them? If you can tell me the posting cost and your price, then PM me. Thanks!


 
  
 Sending PM


----------



## Pocky

Would this power a Beyerdyamic dt880 Premium headphone? i got these in the mail and looking for a headphone now


----------



## Pocky

i mean the 600 OHM one


----------



## isendono

Yes


----------



## Pocky

Thanks. I'll would be buying the Beyer 880 Prem 600 Ohm to go with the aune t1 i guess.


----------



## isendono

salvatore said:


> Aune T1 gain settings:


 
  
  


pocky said:


> Thanks. I'll would be buying the Beyer 880 Prem 600 Ohm to go with the aune t1 i guess.


 
 make sure to change the gain above tho.


----------



## Pocky

should i turn off all the gain so its 0?


----------



## isendono

turn it on ;D


----------



## Pocky

Sorry my first time using dac/amps and etc. :X So turn it on to 16 correct?


----------



## isendono

16 or you can try 10 and see how it goes.


----------



## CoiL

If some of you haven`t changed stock USB cable yet, then I can recommend those 2:

 1) Short 12"/30cm -> 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221212729161?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
 2) Long 59"/1.5m -> 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5m-5FT-USB-2-0-A-to-B-Male-M-M-Printer-Print-HighSpeed-Cable-Cord-Plug-Scanner-/360634045489?pt=UK_Computing_USB_Cables&hash=item53f776d431
  
 Outside EU/UK: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5m-5FT-USB-2-0-A-to-B-Male-M-M-Printer-Print-HighSpeed-Cable-Cord-Plug-Scanner-/400504068472?pt=UK_Computing_USB_Cables&hash=item5d3fe71978
  
  
 I don`t really know how to explain it but stock cable sounded kind of "thin & weak"  (I had black, some have grey).
 Pseudo or not but they are properly shielded against interference & thicker gauge.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

isendono said:


> make sure to change the gain above tho.


 
 How about HD600? Is it okay if aI adjust to 16db?


----------



## HoboBob

diaboliqu3 said:


> How about HD600? Is it okay if aI adjust to 16db?


 
 I'd try +10 before going to +16 and see, for your HD600.
 I have DT880 600ohms and depending on the tubes, if they are too bright, the +16 affects me; with others, the +16 is fine and/or better...


----------



## isendono

I'm using 10db for my HD580 atm, haven't really try 16db because I hardly need to turn the knob over 8-9oclock for my taste xD so I didn't bothered to change it.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

hobobob said:


> I'd try +10 before going to +16 and see, for your HD600.
> I have DT880 600ohms and depending on the tubes, if they are too bright, the +16 affects me; with others, the +16 is fine and/or better...


 
 Hopefully changing this solve my brightness issue. BTW, will connecting T1 USB cable to USB adapter will influenced the sound?
  
 My current setup
 Laptop> USB port> USB adapter> T1
  
 Or it's better if:
 Laptop> USB port> T1
  
 T1 not with me now. I'm in office.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

isendono said:


> I'm using 10db for my HD580 atm, haven't really try 16db because I hardly need to turn the knob over 8-9oclock for my taste xD so I didn't bothered to change it.


 

 In my case, volume knob depend on the song and recording. Some song at 9 o clock sound enough. But some need to be at 10 or 11 o clock. But mostly will be sit around 7 - 9 o clock. I never reach or pass 12. And it's 16db.


----------



## Robertgullik

I just got the Aune T1 and it sounds really distorted and some frequencies are almost inaudible. I can't even hear the singer in some songs. Changing the gain helps somewhat but makes it worse in other songs, female singers especially sound like they're coming from the other end of a long tunnel.
  
 I'm using the V-moda M-100 and haven't had the chance to try with another pair of headphones yet. Anyone recognize this kind of behavior? Should I try replacing the tube or is it not likely that's the problem?
  
 Edit: I should mention I use this on my PC and it's the first external sound device I use so if there's any windows settings that I should adjust I don't know about that. :/


----------



## abhinit90

^^Are you sure you didn't get a bad piece?
  
 I've heard ASIO4ALL improves the sound quality but in no case have I ever heard a dedicated DAC/Amp to worsen the quality by _that _level (inaudible singer, etc.)
  
 So doing things would only improved the improved sound output through a dac & amp.
  
 In short, a dac & amp shouldn't degrade the sound by that much in any case, just check the connections if they are not loose or if you've properly inserted the tube and all, i really have no clue


----------



## Salvatore

bad tube bad unit who knows


----------



## Robertgullik

It was actually the 6,3mm -> 3,5mm adapter that came with the Aune that was the culprit. I tried with the adapter I got with my V-modas and now it sounds fine... quite a relief.


----------



## moshin29

I've got the Beyerdynamic DT 990 pro and i'm looking for a dac/amp to go with it. I currently own the FiiO E07K, which performs fairly well in my regard, but i want more.
  
 Will the Aune T1 bring much improvement to the sound??


----------



## teb1013

moshin29 said:


> I've got the Beyerdynamic DT 990 pro and i'm looking for a dac/amp to go with it. I currently own the FiiO E07K, which performs fairly well in my regard, but i want more.
> 
> Will the Aune T1 bring much improvement to the sound??




I don't know about the DT 990s, but I used the E07ks predecessor the E7 with my Sennheiser HD558s and the sound was OK. I switched to the Aune T1 and the sound was spectacular! Use the search this thread function to check on how your phones do with the T1. I expect that you will have a major improvement right away. A little tube rolling will add to the quality.


----------



## moshin29

teb1013 said:


> I don't know about the DT 990s, but I used the E07ks predecessor the E7 with my Sennheiser HD558s and the sound was OK. I switched to the Aune T1 and the sound was spectacular! Use the search this thread function to check on how your phones do with the T1. I expect that you will have a major improvement right away. A little tube rolling will add to the quality.


 
  
 Thanks for the info. Am gonna get one for myself at the end of the month. I've already read a whole LOT of reviews about the T1, and it definitely looks promising


----------



## HoboBob

diaboliqu3 said:


> Hopefully changing this solve my brightness issue. BTW, will connecting T1 USB cable to USB adapter will influenced the sound?
> 
> My current setup
> Laptop> USB port> USB adapter> T1
> ...


 
 Not too sure about the brightness. Get something warm like the OG. OG + HD600 + 10db = should be pretty sweet.

 Regarding the adapter, I haven't tested it, but it could create interference. I usually go straight up and do not use a split/adapter. Good quality, good isolation


----------



## Jokrik

I'm pretty new to headphone and amp world
 but I managed to snatch one of this Aune T1, currently using a Shure SRH1440 and Beat Pro
 I've read most of the posts here and realize that it would be better to use it from USB source to get the use of the tube am I right?

 Currently I have a dedicated sound card in my PC (Phoebus) was planning to run the T1 from the sound card, would it be a bad idea?


----------



## GirgleMirt

Yeah, if you're plugging in the line-in you're bypassing the tube dac, so it depends...  If you want to go through the tube, you have to use the USB input.  If you just just want to use the amp portion, then line in is fine.  In both cases, it's a solid state amp, and if you use USB the DAC portion uses the tube.


----------



## Jokrik

girglemirt said:


> Yeah, if you're plugging in the line-in you're bypassing the tube dac, so it depends...  If you want to go through the tube, you have to use the USB input.  If you just just want to use the amp portion, then line in is fine.  In both cases, it's a solid state amp, and if you use USB the DAC portion uses the tube.


 
 Does it really makes a difference in the sound quality output when using the tube?
 this will be my first external amp so not sure what should I expect


----------



## Ophiel

If u're using the T1 just for the amp, you could have gotten better ones such as the o2 or the iCan that I'm using(these are dedicated amps, not dac+amp like the t1). You could use ur soundcard as dac and the T1's amp, but what's the point? The Dac of the T1 will definitely be better.


----------



## Jokrik

ophiel said:


> If u're using the T1 just for the amp, you could have gotten better ones such as the o2 or the iCan that I'm using(these are dedicated amps, not dac+amp like the t1). You could use ur soundcard as dac and the T1's amp, but what's the point? The Dac of the T1 will definitely be better.


 
 Thx! I will definitely give it a try and compare


----------



## Brendo09

The only point of the T1 is the tube buffer on the USB Dac stage. If you aren't using it, you should probably look somewhere else. 
  
  
 It's the tube's delicate flavouring that makes this unit what it is, not the amp side of it.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

I own T1 for few weeks, maybe about 3-4 weeks. Come with EH 6922 tube. This DAC amp doesn't make me happy at first. Sharp, bright instrument sound especially cymbal. It is too bright for a bright headphone lover like me.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Distortion guitar riff in metal or rock songs become messy, and not clear. I almost get my self a new amp to overcome overbright issue. So I decided to explore this thing. My biggest mistake is in the connection and gain setting. Seems like the default db for mine is 10db. And, since my laptop only have 3 USB ports, I decide to use USB port adapter for my Aune T1. So I do comparison for connecting T1 directly to USB port vs USB port adapter. But after the exploration, I think it's time for me to get a new tube and USB cable for starting.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Foobar> Kernel Streaming> Aune T1> Senn HD 600
  
 Setup 1
 Laptop> USB port> USB adapter> Aune T1> Senn HD 600
  
 Setup 2
 Laptop> USB port> Aune T1> Senn HD 600
  
 Result: I prefer setup 2 now. To my ears, the sharp instrument sound as cymbal are acceptable. No sound breaking anymore while listening. This is just cheap USB adapter that powered by USB port, sharing keyboard, mouse and Aune T1. I wonder the same result for adapter powered USB port.
  
 For 10db vs 16db comparison, my result is 16db suit my HD 600 more.
  
*Toni Braxton - I Don't Want To (mp3 320kbps)*
 16db revealed the piano in background. In 10db the piano is there but somehow hidden. I don't even know that if it's piano or some percussion. At first I thought I need to increase the volume know in 10db to get the same sound as 16db but I was wrong. Increasing the volume in 10db just make the music loud, not what I expect.
  
*Daft Punk - Get Lucky (flac)*
 10db, the "hand clapping" sound distant as in a big hall. Not suitable for this genre IMO. So, 16db "hand clapping" sound close, the music feel energetic like it should be. The bass and drum sound fun. And again, increasing volume in 10db vs 16db doesn't make they sound the same. The guitar and bass sound muddy in 10db. The bass is there but it's sound like Logitech speaker bass. It's boom-boom but not doom-doom. Change to 16db, this is the bass that I want. Everything become clear, the vocal, the cymbal, and  guitar. While the bass, tight, and doom-doom.
  
*Avenged Sevenfold - Welcome To The Family (flac)*
 10db make the distortion guitar along with the drum hidden behind the vocalist. I was in a band before and played few instruments, join some gigs etc. 10db sound like wrong setup in a gig where I can hear the vocal loud, while the drum are louder than the guitar and the bass. And the bass are muddy IMO, not energetic while the drum sound like need to be adjust. 16db, the music become energetic. I will say this is the correct instrument setup where everything sound balance. I get goosebumps when they doing the guitar solo in 10db. Sound synchronize. In 10db, what I heard is the lead guitar volume is louder than the second guitar. Sound like wrong setup for the guitar speaker. Increasing volume in 10db vs 16db doesn't make they sound the same.
  
*Alison Krauss - It Wouldn't Have Made a Difference (flac)*
 10db sound like in a large, airy hall. The guitar plucking sound distant behind Alison voice. The percussion and piano sound weak. in 16db, her vocal become more reveal along with the piano, guitar and other percussion. They sound closer to ear. It's like night and day different for 10db vs 16db. 10db is in a hall, while 16db is you stand close in front of the performance.
  
*Jòsef Mukki; Budapest Camerata/Laszlo Kovacs - Handel, Serse, HWV 40 - Ombra Mai Fu (Largo) (flac)*
 My favorite track from Classical Favourites Opera album. 10db, the vocal sound like he's behind the violin. And the guitar string sound wrong. I don't know how to explain but it's just not like it should be. Everything sound wrong. But it's the vocal and violin are noticeable. The voice should give you goosebumps, energetic and and clear. And I thought with other tracks that sound in a hall with 10db, I'm surprise because it's even for classical opera 10db make the music not enjoyable. So 16db, the voice... Gosh, give me goosebumps. I can hear the the voice vibration, almost like watching recording session. The guitar sound more acoustic instead of metal string. And the violin, it's sound like they're next to the singer on stage. In other word, even with eyes closed  I think someone who never try T1 can hear the different.
  
*Alan Jackson - Amazing Grace (flac)*
 There's not so much different for the piano intro for both db. But when Alan start singing, I get goosebumps on 16db. The vocal sound full, not dull like in 10db. And background music in 10db sound "blanketed", only Alan's vocal highlighted. And during the solo, 10db just make things worst. To my ear, I the piano and other background sound like a dirty cassette tape. But when I turn to 16db, the piano and other background instrument become clear. Oh Alan, you're a heaven sent singer...
  
*My summary:*
 -Aune T1 is really as good as being hype.
 -T1 definitely will change your listening experience. Some background instrument will become very clear, noticeable.
 -Bright sound, and I love it. Just like Beyer headphones.
 -Need proper connection. Please connect directly to your source USB port.
 -I believe by messing with the db switch for long time, this can affect the sound balance in case the switch faulty.
 -Speaker and headphone friendly. A good DAC amp for my headphone, and a DAC for my speaker.
  
  
 English is 4th language, forgive for the grammar mistake and inappropriate of word usage. I think you guys notice I didn't use audiophile term. Well, that's because I'm newbie in this. I just love music and headphone. I hope this will help other people out there. This post suppose to be short but somehow I didn't realize that I type this long while listening to my music collection.


----------



## Salvatore

brendo09 said:


> The only point of the T1 is the tube buffer on the USB Dac stage. If you aren't using it, you should probably look somewhere else.
> 
> It's the tube's delicate flavouring that makes this unit what it is, not the amp side of it.


 
  
 +1. If I ever need to upgrade I'll just buy new amp and use T1 as a DAC. This is very good low cost mid level amp/dac and won't be obsolete even if you need stronger amp in some point of your life.
  


diaboliqu3 said:


> I own T1 for few weeks, maybe about 3-4 weeks...


 
  
 Thanks for your impressions. Do you mind if I link this post to the info page?


----------



## CoiL

Get Amperex OG instead 6922EH  Since you are "bright-lover" then I will even recommend not GAC but A-frame GA8, GAG or GAE - they have tinybit brighter highs. Philips PCC189 (Heerlen), Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen) can be cheaper options if you can find and get lucky.

 Btw, I can`t make sense about my Amperex OG 6GM8. I think It`s very music dependent, sometimes bass feels littlebit "weak" but sometimes not at all. Anyway still one of my best tubes due to most holographic sound and with external amp+speakers it`s sublime ;P But overall, I still prefer Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88 GAC, Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8, Miniwatt-Dario ECC189/6ES8 over it.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

salvatore said:


> +1. If I ever need to upgrade I'll just buy new amp and use T1 as a DAC. This is very good low cost mid level amp/dac and won't be obsolete even if you need stronger amp in some point of your life.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your impressions. Do you mind if I link this post to the info page?


 

 Hi... I'll be glad with that. Never thought that you want to link my impressions. Kindly inform me to edit or just edit if something not right there. According to the seller, Aune T1 DAC considered the best among the price category and he suggest me to keep T1 and get a proper amp in case I want to upgrade. My plan is to let go T1 and get something else but the seller advised me not too. Seems like he gave me a good advise.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> Get Amperex OG instead 6922EH  Since you are "bright-lover" then I will even recommend not GAC but A-frame GA8, GAG or GAE - they have tinybit brighter highs. Philips PCC189 (Heerlen), Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen) can be cheaper options if you can find and get lucky.
> 
> Btw, I can`t make sense about my Amperex OG 6GM8. I think It`s very music dependent, sometimes bass feels littlebit "weak" but sometimes not at all. Anyway still one of my best tubes due to most holographic sound and with external amp+speakers it`s sublime ;P But overall, I still prefer Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88 GAC, Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8, Miniwatt-Dario ECC189/6ES8 over it.


 
 This 6922 EH come with T1, that's how I get that tube. Well, I'm ready to get Amperex OG but I heard many fake OG. So I will be glad if any of you guys share trusted seller link. Well, I tried bright, why not try something warm right? That's the point of getting tube IMO, play with the tube sound. Hehe... Currently my best bet is Bugle Boy ECC88, offered and suggested by my T1 seller. Let's say I can't get OG, I wonder if Bugle Boy can do the job? Bugle Boy cost me about $50.00


----------



## Salvatore

diaboliqu3 said:


> Never thought that you want to link my impressions.


 
  
 Don't be so modest. It's a good read with lots of writing and effort behind


----------



## CoiL

diaboliqu3 said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Get Amperex OG instead 6922EH  Since you are "bright-lover" then I will even recommend not GAC but A-frame GA8, GAG or GAE - they have tinybit brighter highs. Philips PCC189 (Heerlen), Mullard ECC88 (Heerlen) can be cheaper options if you can find and get lucky.
> ...


 
 Can you maybe get a pic and give us that BB tube etched code? If it`s with D-getter then it`s ok price since they are quite rare but don`t know about sound.
 Still, I would go for Amperex OG , they are about 20-30$ @ eBay.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

salvatore said:


> Don't be so modest. It's a good read with lots of writing and effort behind


 
 Thanks mate...


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> Can you maybe get a pic and give us that BB tube etched code? If it`s with D-getter then it`s ok price since they are quite rare but don`t know about sound.
> Still, I would go for Amperex OG , they are about 20-30$ @ eBay.


 

 Hi... I don't have the photo or the tube code yet. But he told me it's 1960s vintage tube.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

After some  reading, if the one he's selling me is the 1960's
  
 www.parkeraudio.net/tubescompared.htm
*6DJ8 Bugle Boy:* Similar to the orange globe logo with more ambiance and larger soundstage.
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/184032/amperex-orange-globe-6dj8s/15
 8. Amperex Bugle Boys ECC88. Dutch. Early-Mid '60s. Warmest of all. Like #3, but warmer, richer and not as refined. Not as detailed. Might be wonderful with Grados--a bit too lush for HD650. This is an excellent tube as well--it's certainly not last on the list--maybe right behind #5 or right with it depending on taste?
  
 I'm still waiting for that seller reply.


----------



## CoiL

If I were you, would go for these instead: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3x-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-6922-Tubes-A-Frame-Holland-/300903204541?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460f3a86bd


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> If I were you, would go for these instead: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3x-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-6922-Tubes-A-Frame-Holland-/300903204541?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460f3a86bd


 
 Thanks for the link. It will cost me roughly $60 shipped to my country. But that is for 3 tubes right? BTW sir, may I know why you suggest that particular tube? And how to know if it's the genuine OG or not?
  
 Regarding question on the BB, it's Amperex ECC88 – Bugle Boy, made in Holland, Round Getter with shield. Big O getter IINM. it's the second one in the link below:
 http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/tubeonly-audio/article?mid=-2&prev=42&l=a&fid=5
  
 I wonder if anyone compared these two.


----------



## CoiL

diaboliqu3 said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > If I were you, would go for these instead: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3x-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-6922-Tubes-A-Frame-Holland-/300903204541?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460f3a86bd
> ...


 
 Yeah, that`s 3 tubes for 60$, great deal imho, especially because one is probably GAC coded dimple disc (already pretty hard to find) and other is PQ logo (I have them both). 3rd one I`m not so sure what version Amperex that is. Why that particular tube (you mean OG)? - because it`s very good and I`m not the only one saying it. I have about 40 NOS tubes for T1 and OG is one of the best alongside with Ultron SQ PCC189 (Which is also probably made with old Amperex factory gear in Bharat India) and Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 (Chartres France). Also, it`s with reasonable price, quite cheap actually compared to Amperex 7308 for example. 
 How you know it`s legit? Look for different signs, build type, code, printing... please read Salvatore`s useful links about T1 & tubes. I would not be so afraid of fake tubes, usually if you know what to look, they are pretty easy to identify. Brave wolf never feels the hunger as they say - your choice, 1 tube for 50$ or 3 tubes (2 of them are great for sure) for 60$. If I already wouldn`t have those in my collection, would probaby buy them myself.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> Yeah, that`s 3 tubes for 60$, great deal imho, especially because one is probably GAC coded dimple disc (already pretty hard to find) and other is PQ logo (I have them both). 3rd one I`m not so sure what version Amperex that is. Why that particular tube (you mean OG)? - because it`s very good and I`m not the only one saying it. I have about 40 NOS tubes for T1 and OG is one of the best alongside with Ultron SQ PCC189 (Which is also probably made with old Amperex factory gear in Bharat India) and Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 (Chartres France). Also, it`s with reasonable price, quite cheap actually compared to Amperex 7308 for example.
> How you know it`s legit? Look for different signs, build type, code, printing... please read Salvatore`s useful links about T1 & tubes. I would not be so afraid of fake tubes, usually if you know what to look, they are pretty easy to identify. Brave wolf never feels the hunger as they say - your choice, 1 tube for 50$ or 3 tubes (2 of them are great for sure) for 60$. If I already wouldn`t have those in my collection, would probaby buy them myself.


 

 I decided to get that OG. Now searching for a a piece or two pieces since they are cheaper. But for one piece, the shipping damn expensive. I might grab that three pieces if no choice. Thank you very much.


----------



## Salvatore

If you want to just try many different tubes I suggest to buy only one pc.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Threesome Amperex tube paid.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Might sell off the extra if I don't need it. I can't find any of this tube at our local audiophile forum. Thanks *CoiL*. Can't wait to test OG since it's rock/ metal friendly.


----------



## CoiL

Hope you like them. But I suggest you to keep them all if you like them since you never know how much usage they have had or what your Aune T1 unit might do to tubes. If you are rock/metal/progressive/djent listener, then Amperex OG should rock your ears 
  
 Edit:
  
 Really recommend to listen *John Surman - Saltash Bells* album. Beautiful and skin-tingling! With OG sax sounds so good and "warm". Usually I don`t listen sax but this is just... eargasm ;P Example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUW9wGsyksI&hd=1
  
 Edit2:
  
 For US members, recommend to try JAN Sylvania 6922 (Green label): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251024184077?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
 It`s towards more larger soundstage but it has great mids and good lows. Great tube with great price imo. Certainly worth to get into collection.
  
 Also, one Mazda ECC189 (Chartres France): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300544331122?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
 
 I have 4x Miniwatt-Dario labeled ECC189`s and one Mazda labeled ECC189, they all are Chartres France made and they have the best tight & punchy bass out of my tube collection. Great soundstage, good mids, clarity & separation. Highly recommend to get this. Rare tube also


----------



## scottder

Does this DAC work well with OSX?


----------



## scottder

Aldo is there a way to use it with an ipad mini?


----------



## isendono

with Mac os x yes , but sometime if the os didnt detect this unit, just unplug the usb and replug to another usb port.
  
 As for ipad mini , prolly not for for the usb input but you can always try this out adapters for usb females http://www.ebay.com/itm/30Pin-To-Female-USB-Host-Otg-Cable-Adapter-Connector-For-iPad-1-2-3-4-/390694257196.
  
 You might be able to connect it to the RCA input using RCA converter cable, but that defeats the purpose of having AUNE T1.


----------



## Acknown3

Hey guys, I just received my aune from the massdrop today and have a question about how to hook it up. I know that I'm going to use the USB line for my HD600, but I'm not sure how to hook up my Audioengine A2. I have an STX with RCA cables connected to the speakers, but I also know the aune has an RCA out, only with the amp instead of the amp and dac. Would they're be any benefit in running the speakers through the aune and stx instead of just the stx, or does it not matter since the aune would only at as an amp and the speakers are active? 

I'm just wondering since running it through both would make it easier to switch between the speakers and my headphones.


----------



## CoiL

Sorry didn`t understand really what you want or what is your problem but...

 PC > Aune T1 via USB > RCA out to amplifier(d) speakers and headphones can work simultaneously. If I don`t use Headphones I just flip the switch to Line position, If I don`t want speakers, just turn them/amplifier off and use headphones with switch in USB position.
  
 Aune T1 uses DAC & tube buffer only when USB input is used but that doesn`t mean that RCA out isn`t using them also! When you use RCA in - then there is only T1 amp part used. So, just feed your Aune T1 with USB and take RCA out to your audioengine and you`ll enjoy the DAC+tube too


----------



## Acknown3

I was just wondering if the amp of the aune could hurt my speakers since the stx doesn't have an amp for its RCA out and the a2 already has a power supply.


----------



## robrob

> I have an STX with RCA cables connected to the speakers, but I also know the aune has an RCA out, only with the amp instead of the amp and dac. Would they're be any benefit in running the speakers through the aune and stx instead of just the stx, or does it not matter since the aune would only at as an amp and the speakers are active?
> 
> I'm just wondering since running it through both would make it easier to switch between the speakers and my headphones.


 
  
 The RCA out of the Aune T1 isn't amplified, it's a pre-out. But the RCA out does use the tube and DAC--you're confusing the RCA in which does bypass the DAC and tube. I run amplified speakers off the RCA out and use the headphones at the same time.


----------



## santacruise

Can this T1 feed the senn HD650?
 Have anyone tried this combo?


----------



## teb1013

santacruise said:


> Can this T1 feed the senn HD650?
> Have anyone tried this combo?




Check out the 'search this thread' function. You will find a number of positive comments on the T1 driving the HD600 and the 650.


----------



## hemipowered007

What would you folks think about driving he4s through a vintage pioneer sx727 with this as the dac? Currently have an e17 and he400 but changing it up a bit and wondered how a tube dac feeding a beefy amp would do for planars. Sorry if this has been discussed before or if I myself have already asked! I have a very bad memory....


----------



## moshin29

I've been hearing that the stock tube or the *6922 *don't pair that well with the Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro. I'm not that ready to invest into other tubes.. So which tube amplifier brings a great improvement right out of the box to the Beyers? Thanks in advance.


----------



## ethan7000

moshin29 said:


> I've been hearing that the stock tube or the *6922* don't pair that well with the Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro. I'm not that ready to invest into other tubes.. So which tube amplifier brings a great improvement right out of the box to the Beyers? Thanks in advance.



Project Starlight



hemipowered007 said:


> What would you folks think about driving he4s through a vintage pioneer sx727 with this as the dac? Currently have an e17 and he400 but changing it up a bit and wondered how a tube dac feeding a beefy amp would do for planars. Sorry if this has been discussed before or if I myself have already asked! I have a very bad memory....



I would try what Sonido is doing and use a tube preamp. The T1 doesn't really have a tube sound the way tube amps do. He's going to report back on the Quickie. I would also suggest the Project Sunrise II which has a preamp out.


----------



## abhinit90

Is there any difference between the Aune T1 with the 6n11 tube and the "upgraded version" featuring the 6922 tube (apart from obviously the tube itself) ?


----------



## teb1013

abhinit90 said:


> Is there any difference between the Aune T1 with the 6n11 tube and the "upgraded version" featuring the 6922 tube (apart from obviously the tube itself) ?




There is no difference, and many of the "basic" T1s come with the 6922 anyway. Mine did. A good idea is to get the T1 without any so-called upgrades and buy tubes if necessary.


----------



## abhinit90

Oh ok, so it is safe for me to buy a "basic" Aune t1?
  
 Also is buying from Pbuying.usa on ebay safe as it's the only place where I can get the best price?
  
 Thanks for your patience.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

abhinit90 said:


> Oh ok, so it is safe for me to buy a "basic" Aune t1?
> 
> Also is buying from Pbuying.usa on ebay safe as it's the only place where I can get the best price?
> 
> Thanks for your patience.


 

 That "basic" depend on the seller. Some will give 6N11 as stock. Some even claim "upgraded" with 6922 tube. As long the upgraded or the basic priced the same, I have no problem with that. And I think every T1 owner definitely will change the tube someday, unless the stock tube is perfect for them.


----------



## iogashi

Considering purchasing this as my first tube amp/DAC. I want to pair it with the Beyerdynamic DT880 600ohms, thoughts on this? Will it drive them sufficiently?


----------



## teb1013

abhinit90 said:


> Oh ok, so it is safe for me to buy a "basic" Aune t1?
> 
> Also is buying from Pbuying.usa on ebay safe as it's the only place where I can get the best price?
> 
> Thanks for your patience.




I got mine in the us through Pennybuying. The service was fine. It took about 6 weeks to arrive from China. I don't know if it would be quicker to India. You may want to check CoiL's recent comments on some Indian tubes that he gave good reviews to. Good luck!


----------



## abhinit90

@Diabolique: Getting tubes here isn't easy unless I import them but teb1013's reply (brlow) has given me a faint glimmer of hope
  
 Quote:


teb1013 said:


> I got mine in the us through Pennybuying. The service was fine. It took about 6 weeks to arrive from China. I don't know if it would be quicker to India. You may want to check CoiL's recent comments on some Indian tubes that he gave good reviews to. Good luck!


 
 Thanks a lot for clearing the pennybuying thing 

 woah! tubes exist in India :O
  
 Need to check, are those comments in the last 10 pages?
  
 The reason I ask is because I've started reading this thread from the first page and am about 30 pages into the thread


----------



## MrEleventy

iogashi said:


> Considering purchasing this as my first tube amp/DAC. I want to pair it with the Beyerdynamic DT880 600ohms, thoughts on this? Will it drive them sufficiently?


It'll drive them sufficiently in terms of volume but I don't know if you'll like the pairing with the 880s. I found it a little thin and bright due to the T1's amp.


----------



## scottder

Mine arrived today, I am planning on using the output to my Schiit Asgard 2, we'll see how nice they play together.
  
 Scott


----------



## teb1013

abhinit90 said:


> Thanks a lot for clearing the pennybuying thing
> 
> 
> woah! tubes exist in India :O
> ...




Just put India in the Search this thread function and you will find them. This is one. http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2925#post_9848413


----------



## Acknown3

I have a little over $150 to spend between an amp and a tube. I already have the T1 and an HD600 so would you guys recommend an O2 and an Ampere OG? I listen to mostly alt and prog rock with some indie and classical.


----------



## mhamel

mreleventy said:


> It'll drive them sufficiently in terms of volume but I don't know if you'll like the pairing with the 880s. I found it a little thin and bright due to the T1's amp.


 
  
 From what I can tell after taking apart the T1, the amp section is basically a CMOY with switchable gain.   For 600 ohm cans, it may make more sense to use the T1 as a DAC/buffer to feed an external amp.   I've been playing around with it feeding my Lyr and it is a significant improvement over the internal amp.


----------



## CoiL

acknown3 said:


> I have a little over $150 to spend between an amp and a tube. I already have the T1 and an HD600 so would you guys recommend an O2 and an Ampere OG? I listen to mostly alt and prog rock with some indie and classical.


 
 Go for Amperex OG 6Dj8/ECC88 (GAC coded is best for prog rock imo). Other options would be Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8 (gold label Bharat India made, if you can find it, basically same sounding as OG but I find it tinybit better) or Siemens PCC189 (Mullard made) is also good for progressive metal/rock/djent. Also, there`s Siemens PCC88/7DJ8 (warmer tube than OG and for classical maybe too warm, littlebit smaller soundstage too if I remember correctly). Use search in this thread for more information and impressions, these are my main recommendations for progressive rock/metal/djent.


----------



## CoiL

mhamel said:


> From what I can tell after taking apart the T1, the amp section is basically a CMOY with switchable gain.


 
 CmoyBB v2.03: 
  

Alps RK097 Volume Control and On/Off Switch
Bass Boost Toggle Switch
DC Auxiliary Power Jack
Automatic On/Off (senses headphone cord)
Texas Instruments OPA2227 Opamp in Gold-Plated DIP Socket
Texas Instruments TLE2426 Precision Virtual Ground (2x optional)
Decoupling Capacitors on All IC Supply Pins
Custom 2-Layer PCB: Compact Layout with Ground Plane 
  
Aune T1:

headamp board transistors are B649 / D669
Headamp board opamps are NE5532
PCM1793 DAC + TE7022
DAC opamp OPA2134
  
  
 I know I have asked it already but has anyone tried or willing to try rolling opamps or maybe even h-amp transistors (for example like in case of indeed/bravo tube amp)?  Sorry if I told something wrong, I`m total noob about opamps ;D


----------



## Acknown3

coil said:


> Go for Amperex OG 6Dj8/ECC88 (GAC coded is best for prog rock imo). Other options would be Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8 (gold label Bharat India made, if you can find it, basically same sounding as OG but I find it tinybit better) or Siemens PCC189 (Mullard made) is also good for progressive metal/rock/djent. Also, there`s Siemens PCC88/7DJ8 (warmer tube than OG and for classical maybe too warm, littlebit smaller soundstage too if I remember correctly). Use search in this thread for more information and impressions, these are my main recommendations for progressive rock/metal/djent.


Alright, I'll do more research on those. Since the search function also yielded a lot of complaints about the Aune amp, is there another one you would recommend at or slightly above $100? I was considering a little dot, but I don't want to spend money on tubes for that too. From what I understand the O2 is only slightly better than the Magni, and since they go for $120 on eBay they would be the best option.


----------



## Pocky

I just brought the beyer dt 800 Prem 600 OHM. When i'm using the aune t1 to listen to music there alot of distortion. Is there a way to fix it or something? its bothering me >_<


----------



## CoiL

acknown3 said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Go for Amperex OG 6Dj8/ECC88 (GAC coded is best for prog rock imo). Other options would be Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8 (gold label Bharat India made, if you can find it, basically same sounding as OG but I find it tinybit better) or Siemens PCC189 (Mullard made) is also good for progressive metal/rock/djent. Also, there`s Siemens PCC88/7DJ8 (warmer tube than OG and for classical maybe too warm, littlebit smaller soundstage too if I remember correctly). Use search in this thread for more information and impressions, these are my main recommendations for progressive rock/metal/djent.
> ...


 
 Depends. First thing I`m recommending is to try Aune T1 amp and IF you feel anything wrong/short, then start looking for another amp. I personally don`t find anything wrong with Aune T1 amp coupled with my modified Superlux HD-681 (mkII)... I`m just curious to try another amp and experiment ;P If you want to go cheap and good then maybe PA2V2 is better option? Don`t know but someone in here liked it very much with Aune T1 as DAC.
  


pocky said:


> I just brought the beyer dt 800 Prem 600 OHM. When i'm using the aune t1 to listen to music there alot of distortion. Is there a way to fix it or something? its bothering me >_<


 
 Have you tired flipping gain switches under Aune T1? Sounds like you don`t use enough gain for your cans. If gain switches doesn`t affect that sound, then try another jack adapter (if you are using one) or last option would be faulty tube.
  


salvatore said:


> Aune T1 gain settings:


----------



## mhamel

coil said:


> CmoyBB v2.03:
> 
> 
> Alps RK097 Volume Control and On/Off Switch
> ...


 
  
 Coil,
  
 I'm talking about just the amplifier circuit itself, not the DAC portion or the buffer portion. The CMOY circuit can be built many different ways, it does not necessarily require an OPA2227 or TLE2426.   The CmoyBB implementation is just one of many.  I've built at least 3-4 different implementations myself over the years. 
  
 To put it in more generic terms, the amplifier section itself is a pretty simple op-amp based headamp.


----------



## CoiL

Thanks for clarification  Since you seem to have lot more knowledge in opamps, what can you say about rolling those opamps?


----------



## mhamel

CoiL,
  
 Rolling the op-amp may be an option for the advenurous, but being that it's SMT, it would require careful de-soldering / re-soldering and would run the risk of lifting trace(s) on the board.
  
  If you'd like to get into DIY and roll opamps it might make more to sense to build an external amplifier with a socketed DIP opamp(s), which would make rolling a lot simpler.


----------



## CoiL

Okay, lets say that I have a guy who can do it easily and will implement a DIP socket inside Aune T1 - which opamps are compatible and what do you recommend to try? Is it just change-opamp-operation or do some other components require changing/modification?


----------



## mhamel

CoiL,
  
 Some that come to mind that _may_ work.
  
 opa2604
 opa2134
 opa2641
 LM4562
 opa227/opa228
  
  
 Make sure the supply voltage that the T1 is providing falls within the spec of the op amp as well.  Also check the current draw, as if the power supply can't supply what's needed for the replacement opamp, it could cause other failures.   Some opamps can be prone to oscillation and are harder to just drop in without other mods.
  
 If you're not familiar with electronics, I would suggest doing plenty of reading/learning before just dropping anything in.
  
   -Mike


----------



## MrEleventy

mhamel said:


> From what I can tell after taking apart the T1, the amp section is basically a CMOY with switchable gain.   For 600 ohm cans, it may make more sense to use the T1 as a DAC/buffer to feed an external amp.   I've been playing around with it feeding my Lyr and it is a significant improvement over the internal amp.


 Yeah, I do that myself. I ran it with an o2 at first, now I use a darkvoice 336.


----------



## Pocky

Yeah im using 16 Gain ATM. I'm also using USB.


----------



## GirgleMirt

Does the gain change anything besides volume?  Using Sony AKG K550 which are 32 ohms.


----------



## CoiL

pocky said:


> Yeah im using 16 Gain ATM. I'm also using USB.


 
 And distortion still present? Then try another tube, if that doesn`t change anything, then your Aune T1 is probably faulty but when it`s tube you are "lucky", easy to change. Using 6922EH tube atm? There are many cases with 6922EH being faulty tube or "die" fast.


----------



## Pocky

coil said:


> And distortion still present? Then try another tube, if that doesn`t change anything, then your Aune T1 is probably faulty but when it`s tube you are "lucky", easy to change. Using 6922EH tube atm? There are many cases with 6922EH being faulty tube or "die" fast.


 
 Yeah. Any tubes u recommend or know where to buy?


----------



## CoiL

eBay? upscaleaudio? Tubemonger? read the thread? Google? Can`t give recommendations if I don`t know what music you prefer, what nuances are important for you in the sound, what cans you use (maybe you use multiple cans) etc. And I didn`t get it - are you using jack adapter or not? Asking because many users here have experienced problems due to bad 3.5mm>6.3mm jack adapter.


----------



## isendono

Ebay ;D


----------



## White Lotus

I thought I'd ask the question before rushing out and grabbing one.. I can't tell if it's an awesome idea or not.


----------



## HoboBob

Hey there,

 Any of you guys and gals have tried an E288CC/8223 with the Aune? I know they are subject to a bunch of debates as if they are or not compatible or if they will affect your gear in the long run when subbing for a 6DJ8 family member.

 Just trying to check with high-rollers if the tube was ever tested with the unit.

 Thanks!


----------



## CoiL

white lotus said:


> I thought I'd ask the question before rushing out and grabbing one.. I can't tell if it's an awesome idea or not.


 
 Was thinking also getting Indeed/Bravo/Little Bear tube amp with 12AU7/6922 tube support but after reading many threads I came to conclusion they need a lot of modding (thus some extra money, time& effort) to get rid of hum/distortion + too much highs from transistors being used etc. ...so I gave up that idea. 
 Also I read about Bravo V3 being "downgrade" due to this EQ s**t they added. Don`t know for sure though, haven`t tried it myself but I also think that adding another "EQ buffer" to 2x tube sound is NOT a good idea.
  
 If you want cheap with no hassle - go for PA2V2 or O2 better I guess.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> Was thinking also getting Indeed/Bravo/Little Bear tube amp with 12AU7/6922 tube support but after reading many threads I came to conclusion they need a lot of modding (thus some extra money, time& effort) to get rid of hum/distortion + too much highs from transistors being used etc. ...so I gave up that idea.
> Also I read about Bravo V3 being "downgrade" due to this EQ s**t they added. Don`t know for sure though, haven`t tried it myself but I also think that adding another "EQ buffer" to 2x tube sound is NOT a good idea.
> 
> If you want cheap with no hassle - go for PA2V2 or O2 better I guess.


 

 Auuwww... Bad news for me. Yeah, those V2 need to be mod etc. Rather than spending money on amp+mod, I think it's better to get a descent amp. Mod can be cheap if DiY, But asking someone to mod this and that, postage and service charge can make them much more expensive than what you expect.
  
 But again, some mod can be very cheap however it's not worth it IMO unless that cheap mod can create another level of SQ. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## White Lotus

coil said:


> Was thinking also getting Indeed/Bravo/Little Bear tube amp with 12AU7/6922 tube support but after reading many threads I came to conclusion they need a lot of modding (thus some extra money, time& effort) to get rid of hum/distortion + too much highs from transistors being used etc. ...so I gave up that idea.
> Also I read about Bravo V3 being "downgrade" due to this EQ s**t they added. Don`t know for sure though, haven`t tried it myself but I also think that adding another "EQ buffer" to 2x tube sound is NOT a good idea.
> 
> If you want cheap with no hassle - go for PA2V2 or O2 better I guess.


 
  
 Damn. Thanks for the info!

 EDIT: whyyyyy am I still tempted


----------



## isendono

Personally I'm going to get this for myself after Christmas  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-V4-DUAL-MONO-portable-headphone-amplifier-/141090121247?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Amplifiers&hash=item20d9a0661f


----------



## White Lotus

For use with the Aune?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Will do T1 DAC+XDuoo TA-01 amp combo. Comparison so far, TA-01> T1 except the energy in metal, hardcore and rock song.


----------



## White Lotus

Bah, I've just pulled the trigger on the Bravo V3. My girlfriends mum convinced me to do it.

 I'll wait for it to come in, then let you guys know how it goes as an output stage for the T1.
  
 MAN I am excited. I wonder if I should mod a fan onto it/under it..


----------



## CoiL

1st thing when you get it - don`t forget to bias the tube triodes. 
 Also don`t forget to read this thread about Bravo V3: http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/thread/5289/bravo-amp-v3-tone-control
  
 Bravo V3 is actually version 1 of Bravo/Indeed/Bear amps with that "tone control" thingy. The one I would have gotten is V2.
  
 But hope you have some fun modding and tweaking it. I`m going for more finished and quality product.


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> 1st thing when you get it - don`t forget to bias the tube triodes.
> Also don`t forget to read this thread about Bravo V3: http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/thread/5289/bravo-amp-v3-tone-control
> 
> Bravo V3 is actually version 1 of Bravo/Indeed/Bear amps with that "tone control" thingy. The one I would have gotten is V2.
> ...




I have yet to read that these little Bravo amps would be an upgrade over the T1 amp which still seems fine for my purposes. After I upgrade my headphones from the HD558 to the 600 or 650 I might consider an upgraded amp but I would look into the Schiit Valhalla or Woo WA6 which would be major investments (and tube rolling the Woo is an expensive proposition). 
What amps are you considering CoiL?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Guys, if I want to use the DAC only, all I need to do is:
 RCA audio out (T1)> RCA line in (amp), and switch to line right?
  
 So, is it possible to use T1 DAC only, connect to Xduoo TA-01 as amp only. BTW, TA-01 is a DAC amp too but no switchable mode.
 http://earmass.com/2013/07/23/xduoo-ta-01-entry-level-tube-dacamp-combo/


----------



## MrEleventy

diaboliqu3 said:


> Guys, if I want to use the DAC only, all I need to do is:
> 
> RCA audio out (T1)> RCA line in (amp), and switch to line right?
> 
> ...


You don't even have to hit the switch on the T1. The switch only controls the 1/4" hp jack. the RCA out on the T1 is always on and pre-amped. And yeah, it looks like all you need to do is feed it into the line in on the TA-01. 

I'm picking up a Tubemagic A1 myself, SS amp with a tube buffer. Couldn't help myself. lol


----------



## Acknown3

Alright Headfi, I seem to be having a very unique problem.
  
 Album for reference = http://imgur.com/a/k4x7A
  
 So, I got my Aune about a week ago. Everything's working perfectly, but today I ran into a bit of an issue. Before you ask, yes, I restarted my computer twice. Whenever I have my Aune and my Yeti microphone enabled, opening the recording tab under sound manager causes the windows to crash (the left one in the first image of the album). I cannot click anything, but Windows Task Manager says that it's "running."
  
 As you can see from the second image, I'm receiving sound (the user Ninja is talking and I can hear him), but the microphone is stuck at that level and not registering. I tried reinstalling Mumble but that didn't help.
  
 Now, when you look at the third image, you can see that it registers my webcam's microphone. So far, we know that running both the Aune and the Yeti causes the Yeti to not register.
  
 Now something interesting happens. If I disconnect the Aune and go to my Xonar STX, the yeti starts working again (image four). When I turn the Aune back on, the Yeti works, but the rest of the sound stops working. For example, in the fifth image, Foobar doesn't work. If I switch my microphone back to the webcam, the sound begins working on the Aune as normal, but the Yeti stops working again.
  
 In the sixth image, you see that I enabled all of the encoded formats for my Aune. The advanced settings are set to the highest quality for my Aune, STX, Webcam, and Yeti.
  
 So basically, I can't run my Aune and Yeti at the same time, but I could earlier this week. My Yeti has NEVER had these problems, so I'm starting to think it's the Aune. Is it possible for the Aune to "go bad"? Like I said, I already restarted twice, reinstalled my audio drivers, reinstalled Mumble, and unplugged and replugged my devices in every order possible. Any tips?


----------



## MrEleventy

Have you tried a different usb port? I noticed that it made a difference when I had the Modi. I couldn't set bitrate and others from some usb ports.


----------



## Acknown3

Unfortunately that did not work. I changed all of my USB devices around and still either the Yeti doesn't work, or the Aune doesn't work. The recording devices tab only freezes when the Aune is active.


----------



## isendono

reinstall usb driver of the mobo?
  
 problem might be caused by device drawing too much power? try powered usb hub and see if problem persist.


----------



## piew

Hi,
  
 I've read the first post faq but still not too certain if the tube is being used.
  
 I connect T1 via usb to my pc, and connect my ue900 iem via the headphone port (with 16db gain). Am i using the pre-amp tube in such configuration?


----------



## Acknown3

The only USB drivers are USB 3 and all of my devices are running on USB 2.
  
 I don't think the device is drawing too much power considering the fact that I have a 760W PSU and they're plugged directly into the mobo ports.
  
 I'll attempt this on my laptop later tomorrow. If it doesn't work, one of the two things is broken. If it works, then something is wrong with my PC.


----------



## isendono

piew said:


> Hi,
> 
> I've read the first post faq but still not too certain if the tube is being used.
> 
> I connect T1 via usb to my pc, and connect my ue900 iem via the headphone port (with 16db gain). Am i using the pre-amp tube in such configuration?


 
 Not 16db gain on a 30ohm impedance iem imo, make it 0db gain


----------



## piew

isendono said:


> Not 16db gain on a 30ohm impedance iem imo, make it 0db gain


 
  
 why is it so? 
  
 Is 16db going to damage the iem?


----------



## Brendo09

piew said:


> Hi,
> 
> I've read the first post faq but still not too certain if the tube is being used.
> 
> I connect T1 via usb to my pc, and connect my ue900 iem via the headphone port (with 16db gain). Am i using the pre-amp tube in such configuration?


 
 Think of the Aune T1 as two separate items, all in the one shell.
  
 First you have a tube buffered DAC. the DAC takes signal in via the USB.
  
 Second, you have a solid state headphone amp. This amp can take the signal from either the DAC, or via the RCA input on the back (switchable via the toggle on the top), and send that signal either via the headphone amp (via the jack on the front) OR as a line output via the RCA output on the back. 
  
 Once you get your head around that, you can see that the only place the tube is used is in the DAC side of the T1. If you input via the RCA jacks, you're bypassing the DAC altogether and just using the solid state amp. 
  
 Set your gain levels so you get listening volume at about half way around the dial. with low impedence cans. (like your 30ohm ones) 0db is probably the best setting. +16db would be for headphones 180+ohm.


----------



## CoiL

acknown3 said:


> The only USB drivers are USB 3 and all of my devices are running on USB 2.
> 
> I don't think the device is drawing too much power considering the fact that I have a 760W PSU and they're plugged directly into the mobo ports.
> 
> I'll attempt this on my laptop later tomorrow. If it doesn't work, one of the two things is broken. If it works, then something is wrong with my PC.


 
 Just repeating again... Aune T1 does NOT draw any power from USB! It uses only data pins on USB.
  
 About amps I`m going to consider - haven`t decided yet but probably something cheapo like PA2V2.


----------



## piew

coil said:


> Just repeating again... Aune T1 does NOT draw any power from USB! It uses only data pins on USB.
> 
> About amps I`m going to consider - haven`t decided yet but probably something cheapo like PA2V2.


 
  
  


brendo09 said:


> Think of the Aune T1 as two separate items, all in the one shell.
> 
> First you have a tube buffered DAC. the DAC takes signal in via the USB.
> 
> ...


 
 Now i got it... shall listen for a while before i check out the other tubes replacement. 
  
 Shall consider a cheapo/value tube amp after that. 
  
 Thanks for all the replies!


----------



## jilihaozhi

I find all IEMs to be extremely uncomfortable...my ears just can't take them, so I don't have any IEMs to try with it.


----------



## Bluebirdy

Anyone knows what the difference is between the tubes Amperex 6922 and 7308?

 I just got my T1 and it sounds amazing with my Mad Dogs, just want to improve the sound further by adding more soundstage and resolution.

 I stay in Singapore so it is quite difficult to find tubes here. I found this on this singapore website and wanted to verify whether it is true. It is stated there that the 7308 and 6922 is sonically the same and value is the same too.

 Please help out a noob. 

 http://www.quartzacoustic.com/shop/driver-tubes/amperex-7308-pq-white-label-pre-amp-tube/


----------



## mhamel

Quote:


bluebirdy said:


> Anyone knows what the difference is between the tubes Amperex 6922 and 7308?


 
  
 A great place to read about the differences between the 6922 and 7308 would be here:  http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
  
 Essentially, they are all part of the 6DJ8 family, with the 6922 considered a "premium" 6DJ8, having better specs for noise and microphonics, and the 7308 taking that a step further by also specifying closely matched triode sections and tighter tolerances on the specs from tube to tube.
  
   -Mike


----------



## Bluebirdy

Does this mean that both sound sonically the same with the 7308 being more well built and can last longer?





mhamel said:


> A great place to read about the differences between the 6922 and 7308 would be here:  http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
> 
> Essentially, they are all part of the 6DJ8 family, with the 6922 considered a "premium" 6DJ8, having better specs for noise and microphonics, and the 7308 taking that a step further by also specifying closely matched triode sections and tighter tolerances on the specs from tube to tube.
> 
> -Mike


----------



## CoiL

No! Recommendation - start reading


----------



## abhinit90

Finally ordered this hopefully nice sounding piece of audio equipment for a much higher price than what most bought for it.
  
 have been trying to get some good deals for tubes :| Have almost decided on a voshkod and gold lion though.


----------



## CoiL

Amperex OG is the tube every Aune T1 owner should have and start with imho.


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> Amperex OG is the tube every Aune T1 owner should have and start with imho.


+1, and some can stop right there.


----------



## CoiL

Would have stopped there also but my body/mind had not developed anti-bodies for TR virus (tube rolling) ;P


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> Would have stopped there also but my body/mind had not developed anti-bodies for TR virus (tube rolling) ;P




It's a sickness for sure! I managed to stop with the Amperex 7308 JAN, a great tube. I'm saving up for Sennheiser HD 600s and am using that as an incentive to stick with the tubes I have.


----------



## MrEleventy

coil said:


> Would have stopped there also but my body/mind had not developed anti-bodies for TR virus (tube rolling) ;P


I mainly stopped on the Orange Globe because I started rolling bigger tubes 6sn7/6asg7. lol I think i've gotten some antibodies for upgrade-itis. I've had the same set up since mid August! Just swapped some tubes around occasionally but it's really slowed since I got the T90s. Loving my set up. Listening to Clapton Unplugged and every time he taps his foot or stomps, I turn my head because I thought someone was coming... lol


----------



## santacruise

coil said:


> Amperex OG is the tube every Aune T1 owner should have and start with imho.


 
 I'm a newbie when it comes to tube amp. Should I start my journey with this tube or may be some stock tubes?


----------



## dana789

I am new to tube rolling as well, I just bought a 1969 Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 from mhamel after reading some of his posts on this thread. After reading many entries in this thread, I pm'ed him and he replied with a list of tubes he thought I might enjoy. He sent me detailed performance data and descriptions of the tubes I bought and has been a great source of advice. He threw in a few tubes for free that tested well but had unclear origins. I will certainly enjoy offering my untutored opinions of them.
  
 I am a complete noobie with tube audio, but have been having lots of fun with this for pretty short money. I'm glad I bought the T1, simply because there are so many options for tweeking it with different tube choices. Had I bought a pure solid-state device, all I could do was plug it in and maybe imagine some sort of burn-in. Kind of boring. With the T1 and the handful of tubes, I have many hours of listening adventures ahead.
  
 Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, I have especially enjoyed the rich and opinionated advice and how the disagreements have been very civil for the most part. Hopefully I'll be able to contribute when I educate my ears a bit more.


----------



## santacruise

dana789 said:


> I am new to tube rolling as well, I just bought a 1969 Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 from mhamel after reading some of his posts on this thread. After reading many entries in this thread, I pm'ed him and he replied with a list of tubes he thought I might enjoy. He sent me detailed performance data and descriptions of the tubes I bought and has been a great source of advice. He threw in a few tubes for free that tested well but had unclear origins. I will certainly enjoy offering my untutored opinions of them.
> 
> I am a complete noobie with tube audio, but have been having lots of fun with this for pretty short money. I'm glad I bought the T1, simply because there are so many options for tweeking it with different tube choices. Had I bought a pure solid-state device, all I could do was plug it in and maybe imagine some sort of burn-in. Kind of boring. With the T1 and the handful of tubes, I have many hours of listening adventures ahead.
> 
> Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, I have especially enjoyed the rich and opinionated advice and how the disagreements have been very civil for the most part. Hopefully I'll be able to contribute when I educate my ears a bit more.


 
 Can you share mhamel's advices pm here, if he doesn't mind? It'll be a great


----------



## mhamel

santacruise said:


> Can you share mhamel's advices pm here, if he doesn't mind? It'll be a great


 
  
 Hi Santacruise,
  
 I generally prefer to keep PMs as PMs, but I'm happy to share any knowledge/advice I have if it's ever of help to anyone.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 There are lots of other knowledgeable people here in this thread and a great FAQ at the beginning to read, too.
  
 What sort of info would you like to know?
  
   -Mike


----------



## mhamel

dana789 said:


> I am new to tube rolling as well, I just bought a 1969 Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 from mhamel after reading some of his posts on this thread. After reading many entries in this thread, I pm'ed him and he replied with a list of tubes he thought I might enjoy. He sent me detailed performance data and descriptions of the tubes I bought and has been a great source of advice. He threw in a few tubes for free that tested well but had unclear origins. I will certainly enjoy offering my untutored opinions of them.
> 
> I am a complete noobie with tube audio, but have been having lots of fun with this for pretty short money. I'm glad I bought the T1, simply because there are so many options for tweeking it with different tube choices. Had I bought a pure solid-state device, all I could do was plug it in and maybe imagine some sort of burn-in. Kind of boring. With the T1 and the handful of tubes, I have many hours of listening adventures ahead.
> 
> Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, I have especially enjoyed the rich and opinionated advice and how the disagreements have been very civil for the most part. Hopefully I'll be able to contribute when I educate my ears a bit more.


 
  
 Dana,
  
 Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad you're happy with the tubes.  I look forward to hearing your impressions of them.
  
    -Mike


----------



## santacruise

mhamel said:


> Hi Santacruise,
> 
> I generally prefer to keep PMs as PMs, but I'm happy to share any knowledge/advice I have if it's ever of help to anyone.
> 
> ...


 
 I send you PM then. I'm just thinking every knowledge or experience is worth sharing


----------



## Acknown3

So after searching Amperex 6Dj8 on eBay, there are some results where the tubes are as low as $14 and some where they are $25+. The cheap ones have the logos worn off, and some of them look different. A user in this thread suggested the Amperex OG 6Dj8/ECC88 GAC, but are all of these tubes the same? (Except for the GAC part). I just want to make sure that I don't purchase the wrong one.
  
 Reference link: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=amperex+6Dj8&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1
  
 If you could point out which ones are good buys, I'll pick it up tomorrow.


----------



## Enuma-elis

Hi guys. Do you think T1 has enough power to drive AKG K 240 sextett properly?


----------



## abhinit90

acknown3 said:


> So after searching Amperex 6Dj8 on eBay, there are some results where the tubes are as low as $14 and some where they are $25+. The cheap ones have the logos worn off, and some of them look different. A user in this thread suggested the Amperex OG 6Dj8/ECC88 GAC, but are all of these tubes the same? (Except for the GAC part). I just want to make sure that I don't purchase the wrong one.
> 
> Reference link: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=amperex+6Dj8&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1
> 
> If you could point out which ones are good buys, I'll pick it up tomorrow.


 

 Even I want to buy an amperex after what I've heard, need to buy them but I see them sold for around 66$ which is a lot imo :|


----------



## mhamel

acknown3 said:


> So after searching Amperex 6Dj8 on eBay, there are some results where the tubes are as low as $14 and some where they are $25+. The cheap ones have the logos worn off, and some of them look different. A user in this thread suggested the Amperex OG 6Dj8/ECC88 GAC, but are all of these tubes the same? (Except for the GAC part). I just want to make sure that I don't purchase the wrong one.
> 
> Reference link: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=amperex+6Dj8&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1
> 
> If you could point out which ones are good buys, I'll pick it up tomorrow.


 
  
 Acknown,
  
 Prices range all over the place depending on a number of factors.  Age, performance, condition, popularity, etc.   There are also a lot of faked tubes out there, and a lot of sellers on eBay selling untested tubes, or with vague test "results" that don't give any information.   There are also plenty of reputable sellers, but in general their prices are higher.  They tend to put more work into testing, listen to the tubes to make sure they're not noisy, and reject tubes that are way out of spec, too noisy or too imbalanced.   The Amperex 6DJ8 that CoiL and others have recommended for the Aune is a 1969, made by Philips in Herleen, Holland, with a single post getter support for a dimpled disc getter, and the factory code GAC etched near the bottom of the tube above the factory/date code.
  
 I see a pair of the 1969s from a reputable seller on eBay now for $60/pr with no labels.  When he has them with good labels, they're $79/pr.  Another very reputable seller has them for $39/ea or $80 for a matched pair.  
  
 Don't get hung up on the labels or brand - Amperex wasn't the only brand Philips had, and they also sold OEM to companies like RCA.    The important things to identifying the tube are the internal construction, the glass envelope construction and the etched factory date codes.   
  
 Also remember that what you hear, through your particular chain of gear source->dac->amp->headphones, is very subjective.  While a tube may sound great to one person on their system, someone else who looks for different sound characteristics might not like it even on the same system.   Some may prefer more warmth, some may prefer a more clinical sound, some may like more bass, some less, and so forth.  If any part of the chain is different, then the sound will be different as well.   Half of the fun is in rolling through different tubes and finding what *you* like best.
  
           -Mike


----------



## diaBoliQu3

mreleventy said:


> I mainly stopped on the Orange Globe because I started rolling bigger tubes 6sn7/6asg7. lol I think i've gotten some antibodies for upgrade-itis. I've had the same set up since mid August! Just swapped some tubes around occasionally but it's really slowed since I got the T90s. Loving my set up. Listening to Clapton Unplugged and every time he taps his foot or stomps, I turn my head because I thought someone was coming... lol


 
 Hi MrEeleventy. I was attracted with your siggy. My plan is to get LaFigaro 336C and seems like you owned DV 336Se. So, I'm just wondering if you can share your impressions for this two combination? And have you tried Crack yet? If yes, how will you put 336SE with Crack. Somehow I think T1 sound better than the price but for now I'm looking for warmer amp since some track can be very bright with my HD600.
  
 BTW, I'm still on EH 6922 tube and wait for my OG from Ohio which maybe more than one month to arrive at my country.


----------



## MrEleventy

diaboliqu3 said:


> Hi MrEeleventy. I was attracted with your siggy. My plan is to get LaFigaro 336C and seems like you owned DV 336Se. So, I'm just wondering if you can share your impressions for this two combination? And have you tried Crack yet? If yes, how will you put 336SE with Crack. Somehow I think T1 sound better than the price but for now I'm looking for warmer amp since some track can be very bright with my HD600.
> 
> BTW, I'm still on EH 6922 tube and wait for my OG from Ohio which maybe more than one month to arrive at my country.




I haven't had a chance to listen to the Crack but you can find a comparison of the LF336c vs Crack on Headfonia. There's also an indirect comparison with Tyll here. Indirect because he's comparing the WA3 but from the way Tyll notes the differences, from Crack vs WA3 and Dave on Crack vs 336, the WA3 and 336 seems to be similar in sound. They both used the HD650 btw.

I did a TL;DR for both articles on the T90 thread. 

With all that aside... I love the combination of 336 & T1. It's musical but yet detailed. Spacious sounding. There's less of an edge on the highs which makes things less grating and artificial/digital sounding. I don't find the 336 to be too warm. The tubes I have, I roll for a mid range warmth and tight well extended bass, which I get. I also have tubes for when I'm feeling like EDM which will fatten up the bass but still works for all the genres that I listen. I definitely like the combo and won't be changing it for a while. The T1 as a dac is fantastic value, O2/Modi like performance with the bonus for tube eqing.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

mreleventy said:


> I haven't had a chance to listen to the Crack but you can find a comparison of the LF336c vs Crack on Headfonia. There's also an indirect comparison with Tyll here. Indirect because he's comparing the WA3 but from the way Tyll notes the differences, from Crack vs WA3 and Dave on Crack vs 336, the WA3 and 336 seems to be similar in sound. They both used the HD650 btw.
> 
> I did a TL;DR for both articles on the T90 thread.
> 
> With all that aside... I love the combination of 336 & T1. It's musical but yet detailed. Spacious sounding. There's less of an edge on the highs which makes things less grating and artificial/digital sounding. I don't find the 336 to be too warm. The tubes I have, I roll for a mid range warmth and tight well extended bass, which I get. I also have tubes for when I'm feeling like EDM which will fatten up the bass but still works for all the genres that I listen. I definitely like the combo and won't be changing it for a while. The T1 as a dac is fantastic value, O2/Modi like performance with the bonus for tube eqing.


 

 Thanks for the detail reply. Even the guy that I get my T1 from advised me to keep my T1, upgrade my amp, tube and the cable. Maybe I upgrade the DAC, maybe not but definitely not in the shortest time.
  
 I did read that article but my habit is I loved to read from more than one source.  When you aid that your amp on-par with WA-3, is it 336 less grainy and better highs?


----------



## MrEleventy

Nothing concrete but going from the comparisons, I'd think the 336 would be the one with grainier highs since Tyll said the highs on the WA3 were more refined vs the Crack.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

mreleventy said:


> Nothing concrete but going from the comparisons, I'd think the 336 would be the one with grainier highs since Tyll said the highs on the WA3 were more refined vs the Crack.


 
 Means that 336C tad behind WA3?


----------



## MrEleventy

Yeah, looks like it. But I don't mind since I bought mine 2nd hand and a WA3 is more than double what I paid.  Although, not sure how much more refined it would be seeing as that I have a bright-ish set of cans and I don't notice the graininess that was mentioned. Maybe it's something that's more apparent via direct comparision. :shrugs:


----------



## isendono

What about the schiit vali that's supposedly out later this month. Hybrid tube/ss amp. 
  
http://www.head-fi.org/t/685162/new-vali-schiit-amp


----------



## vsha

Are these able to drive AKG 700 series headphones well? I read on MLE's gaming headphone guide that they can demand as much power as 600 ohm headphones despite only being 62 ohms themselves.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

isendono said:


> What about the schiit vali that's supposedly out later this month. Hybrid tube/ss amp.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/685162/new-vali-schiit-amp


 

 I heard this is a warm amp... But too bad tube rolling aren't allowed since they using the fix tube. I'm looking forward for more impressions and review...


----------



## mhamel

diaboliqu3 said:


> I heard this is a warm amp... But too bad tube rolling aren't allowed since they using the fix tube. I'm looking forward for more impressions and review...


 
  
 There's also the Magni, which is the solid state version.... it may have a bit more juice than the T1's built-in amp.   Also, a used or B-stock Asgard 2 isn't all that much more than the Vali and from what I've heard from Scottder here about it with the T1, they match up very well with the T1 as the DAC.
  
    -Mike


----------



## abhinit90

diaboliqu3 said:


> I heard this is a warm amp... But too bad tube rolling aren't allowed since they using the fix tube. I'm looking forward for more impressions and review...


 

 I maybe had an option of going for the Vali+Modi but decided against it at the last moment and ordered an Aune T1. Hope it was the right choice.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

mhamel said:


> There's also the Magni, which is the solid state version.... it may have a bit more juice than the T1's built-in amp.   Also, a used or B-stock Asgard 2 isn't all that much more than the Vali and from what I've heard from Scottder here about it with the T1, they match up very well with the T1 as the DAC.
> 
> -Mike


 

 May I know what is B-stock Asgard 2?


----------



## jipan

AFAIK, B Stock is usually returned goods (someone buy and then returned them), or goods with opened packaging, or unopened box but with some damage to the box.
 Quote:


diaboliqu3 said:


> May I know what is B-stock Asgard 2?


----------



## mhamel

Schiit has a very generous return policy for new gear, so in most cases their B stock is something that someone bought, decided not to keep and sent back.   When they have B stock available, it comes with a full factory warranty, all accessories, etc. but does not have the same trial period policy, for a discounted price.   You'd have to call or write them to see if they have any stock and what the price would be.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

jipan said:


>


 
  
  


mhamel said:


> Schiit has a very generous return policy for new gear, so in most cases their B stock is something that someone bought, decided not to keep and sent back.   When they have B stock available, it comes with a full factory warranty, all accessories, etc. but does not have the same trial period policy, for a discounted price.   You'd have to call or write them to see if they have any stock and what the price would be.


 
 Thanks guys... I do know that they have return policy but never know regarding B stock. Surely a benefit for:
 -Those who buy and didn't like and want to return.
 -Those who want to buy with cheaper price.
 -Schiit reputation. My friend told me they even humorous replying inquiry.


----------



## abhinit90

diaboliqu3 said:


> Thanks guys... I do know that they have return policy but never know regarding B stock. Surely a benefit for:
> -Those who buy and didn't like and want to return.
> -Those who want to buy with cheaper price.
> -Schiit reputation. My friend told me they even humorous replying inquiry.


 

 Well if it's of any consolation, they replied in a thoroughly professional manner to all my queries


----------



## Devmoo

Hey guys if you remember me from a few months back, my Aune T1 just stopped working and had a bunch off static in the left ear. Well, you guys said I should send it back and they should atleast fix it for free. I did do that and the seller was amazing, sent it to china for 30$ and they didn't fix it, they sent me a whole new case!! 
  
 I will note I was 60 days in when it broke and the return was only 30 days. They still let me send it back and gave me a new one. Awesome if you ask me. 
  
 Now it's sounding great but with Christmas coming up i'm deciding on a new pair of headphones since i've been using my Audio Technica ATH-M50's for about 2 years or more now. Now I know these headphones aren't very amp-dependent and although the Aune makes them sound at the their very best imo, I want something that needs a little more power that would shine with the Aune. I'm still going to use my Audio Technicas for anything less power dependent. I'm wondering what would be a solid upgrade from them in the price range of 300 - 500$ that would be suitable for my Aune T1. I'm looking at the Sennheiser HD 598 or the AKG Whites currently. They look like they would be excellent. Any suggestions with headphones in that range that pair amazingly with the Aune? I'm using the 6922 EH Tube and have an additional JJ electronic tube. Any suggestions would be great thanks.


----------



## isendono

devmoo said:


> Hey guys if you remember me from a few months back, my Aune T1 just stopped working and had a bunch off static in the left ear. Well, you guys said I should send it back and they should atleast fix it for free. I did do that and the seller was amazing, sent it to china for 30$ and they didn't fix it, they sent me a whole new case!!
> 
> I will note I was 60 days in when it broke and the return was only 30 days. They still let me send it back and gave me a new one. Awesome if you ask me.
> 
> Now it's sounding great but with Christmas coming up i'm deciding on a new pair of headphones since i've been using my Audio Technica ATH-M50's for about 2 years or more now. Now I know these headphones aren't very amp-dependent and although the Aune makes them sound at the their very best imo, I want something that needs a little more power that would shine with the Aune. I'm still going to use my Audio Technicas for anything less power dependent. I'm wondering what would be a solid upgrade from them in the price range of 300 - 500$ that would be suitable for my Aune T1. I'm looking at the Sennheiser HD 598 or the AKG Whites currently. They look like they would be excellent. Any suggestions with headphones in that range that pair amazingly with the Aune? I'm using the 6922 EH Tube and have an additional JJ electronic tube. Any suggestions would be great thanks.


 
 tbh , sennheiser 598 don't really need an amp to power it up since its only 50ohm but it will benefit from the tube dac for sure. As for tube, I'm not as knowledgeable as coil or mhamel but it's agreed upon many others that an amperex orange globe 6dj8 will be great for AUNE T1.


----------



## Devmoo

@isendono I'm on Amazon looking at these tubes and I've noticed the price ranges are from 14 - 50$.. Are they all the same tubes o.o? http://www.ebay.com/bhp/amperex-6dj8-ecc88 
  
 And how about HIfi man HE-400's, do you think Aune could drive these?


----------



## OiCU812

Change of pace here, everybody seems to be stuck on rowing tubes.  

 Having a hard time deciding on the aune T1 or X1, not finding any direct comparisons of how the two sound even though they are very close in price and function. With the T1 I can row tubes to suit my taste while the x1 would be plug n and enjoy. 

 I listen to everything except, gangsta rap and country bar music, phones would be grado 60/125 or hd681, source would be flac>foobar>usb.


----------



## teb1013

oicu812 said:


> Change of pace here, everybody seems to be stuck on rowing tubes.
> 
> Having a hard time deciding on the aune T1 or X1, not finding any direct comparisons of how the two sound even though they are very close in price and function. With the T1 I can row tubes to suit my taste while the x1 would be plug n and enjoy.
> 
> I listen to everything except, gangsta rap and country bar music, phones would be grado 60/125 or hd681, source would be flac>foobar>usb.




The T1 is fine to plug and play with the basic tube that it comes with (usually the EH9622). The key is tube sound which many of us like. The 9622 is a good intro to tube sound. . The X1 is only solid state and you won't get the tube "flavor." You can chose to swap or "roll" the tube to find one that suits your taste. This is what attracts many of us to the Aune to begin with. If you want a full solid state unit there are many. For the same price range you might consider the Schiit Modi/Magni combo.


----------



## Brendo09

The X1 does have more inputs though. 
  
 I have both, and the X1 is on my TV because it accepts USB, Coaxial and Optical. I run the optical out from the tv into it, and the usb I plug into my notebook when I want music through my home 2.0 setup. 
  
 The T1 lacks that versatility.


----------



## OiCU812

teb1013 said:


> The T1 is fine to plug and play with the basic tube that it comes with (usually the EH9622). The key is tube sound which many of us like. The 9622 is a good intro to tube sound. . The X1 is only solid state and you won't get the tube "flavor." You can chose to swap or "roll" the tube to find one that suits your taste. This is what attracts many of us to the Aune to begin with. If you want a full solid state unit there are many. For the same price range you might consider the Schiit Modi/Magni combo.








   Thanks, that's pretty much what my searching has said about the T1, 1)good headphone amp, 2)you can somewhat tailor the sound to your liking but I've only found one partial thread gushing on the x1 at the grotto.  Doesn't matter to me if it's ss or tube as long as the music gets my rocks off! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






 


   Still not sure which one to get...maybe both and give one to boy for Christmas.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 


 


   Seems some posts mention the Schiit can sound a little bright, if I have to I'll give up a little detail for a smoother sound.  I'm thinking the Aune sound may be more to my liking. 


 


   Wonder how either would do as a dac/preamp on a main full size system?


----------



## mhamel

oicu812 said:


> Wonder how either would do as a dac/preamp on a main full size system?


 
  
 The T1 works pretty well as a DAC, I've been playing around with it as a DAC to my Schiit Lyr and a vintage Pioneer integrated amp.    The line outputs are fixed, though, so it wouldn't function as a preamp on its own.


----------



## abhinit90

Just got the T1 today, sounds pretty great as compared to my laptop.
  
 However there's a lot of sibilance at higher volumes :|


----------



## CoiL

Aune T1 and sibilance? khmmm... that`s the first one. If you are using 6922EH tube then yes, it has sparkly bright highs but no, imo there`s no sibilance.
 Maybe it`s mismatch with your cans of you aren`t just used with so sparkly clear highs. Or, maybe your tube is faulty. But nevertheless I definitely wouldn`t say Aune T1 has sibilance. If I use my Superlux HD-681 reds without hw filter then yes, I hear harsh highs & SSsss sibilance but it comes only from headphone. Maybe your cans sibilance came to life because proper dac/amp reveals its true sound nature?


----------



## Devmoo

Can somebody explain this 0 db, 10 db, and 16 db thing to me?? I'm pretty set on purchasing the Hifiman HE-400 headphones and I saw on this thread there were earlier posts of a member not enjoying his HE-400 as much until  he set his Aune to 10db. I'm very confused to what this does, and why you need to do it for a certain headphone type. I read the descriptions online but they are too advanced and don't really make much sense to me. Could some one go over a Sound Decibels for dummies from a stand point of why I would need to set such a thing for a certain head phone type? would be appreciated. 
  
 EDIT: My friend said if my current headphones sound good on 0 DB which they do (ATH-M50's) then setting a higher decibel would distort them. So would that not happen to the HIfi or is he wrong?


----------



## hojomojo96

devmoo said:


> Can somebody explain this 0 db, 10 db, and 16 db thing to me?? I'm pretty set on purchasing the Hifiman HE-400 headphones and I saw on this thread there were earlier posts of a member not enjoying his HE-400 as much until  he set his Aune to 10db. I'm very confused to what this does, and why you need to do it for a certain headphone type. I read the descriptions online but they are too advanced and don't really make much sense to me. Could some one go over a Sound Decibels for dummies from a stand point of why I would need to set such a thing for a certain head phone type? would be appreciated.
> 
> EDIT: My friend said if my current headphones sound good on 0 DB which they do (ATH-M50's) then setting a higher decibel would distort them. So would that not happen to the HIfi or is he wrong?


 
 Those are the different gain settings. Basically, it'll decide the volume and how well driven the headphones are; at lower gain settings it might not be driven well.


----------



## OiCU812

IIRC, there were some posts concerning channel linearity at very low volume settings due to the volume pot.  Whichever gain setting you use I'd want the volume dial to be above it's lowest setting when listening at normal levels.  
  
    Am I on the right track guys?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

devmoo said:


> Can somebody explain this 0 db, 10 db, and 16 db thing to me?? I'm pretty set on purchasing the Hifiman HE-400 headphones and I saw on this thread there were earlier posts of a member not enjoying his HE-400 as much until  he set his Aune to 10db. I'm very confused to what this does, and why you need to do it for a certain headphone type. I read the descriptions online but they are too advanced and don't really make much sense to me. Could some one go over a Sound Decibels for dummies from a stand point of why I would need to set such a thing for a certain head phone type? would be appreciated.
> 
> EDIT: My friend said if my current headphones sound good on 0 DB which they do (ATH-M50's) then setting a higher decibel would distort them. So would that not happen to the HIfi or is he wrong?


 

 That depend on your can IINM. Some comfortable with 10db and some comfortable with 16db. As for me, 16db with HD 600 gave me night and day differentm YMMV.
  
 My so worst impressions linked last time. I'll fix that post and try to use common term so it's easier to understand.
  
 My theory is for 300ohm, 16db is the sweet spot. Just my naked theory. I haven't try other lower impedance headphone yet but I will update again.


----------



## abhinit90

coil said:


> Aune T1 and sibilance? khmmm... that`s the first one. If you are using 6922EH tube then yes, it has sparkly bright highs but no, imo there`s no sibilance.
> 
> 
> Maybe it`s mismatch with your cans of you aren`t just used with so sparkly clear highs. Or, maybe your tube is faulty. But nevertheless I definitely wouldn`t say Aune T1 has sibilance. If I use my Superlux HD-681 reds without hw filter then yes, I hear harsh highs & SSsss sibilance but it comes only from headphone. Maybe your cans sibilance came to life because proper dac/amp reveals its true sound nature?



 


I really doubt that my headphones have sibilance at all in it's sound signature. The bass isn't decent and the sibilance(hissssss) manifests itself at higher volumes.

It was more emhasized in some songs are compared to others though. I have the stock-stock tube 6n23 [or was it the 6n11 or 6n1p?] (not the upgraded 6922) so maybe that is why everything is not pretty great.

Have ordered 4 6es8 (pcc189) tubes and a GE6dj8 tube so hope they sound fine. I've read somewhere that 6es8 tubes don't exactly fit right in a circuit designed for 6dj8 but I've heard some people saying that it sounds fine so I took a gamble.

The textures sound pretty great, am already wondering what my next dac will be, any ideas on what would be a worthwhile upgrade and not a minor upgrade to the Aune T1. 

The Aune T1 blew me away but it should have beena lot better, it struggles to drive the Fostex T50RP at 10 gain with some songs and I sure as  don't listen to songs at high volumes.

All this is based on what I felt in my initial 2 hours of listening so it may change.


----------



## audiofrog

I have had my Aune T1 since June and things have been great until yesterday.  I've started noticing a higher pitched buzzing sound every couple of minutes.  I replaced my tube but that was not problem because it happened again with another tube.  Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this?  
  
 Thanks,
 AudioFrog


----------



## White Lotus

audiofrog said:


> I have had my Aune T1 since June and things have been great until yesterday.  I've started noticing a higher pitched buzzing sound every couple of minutes.  I replaced my tube but that was not problem because it happened again with another tube.  Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this?
> 
> Thanks,
> AudioFrog


 
  
 My first one had crackling, regardless of tube. I exchanged it for a new one. My distributor was happy to swap it over.
  
 Question: If you use the line-out to another amp, does the issue remain? Or is it only when you use the Aune internal SS amp?


----------



## CoiL

abhinit90 said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Aune T1 and sibilance? khmmm... that`s the first one. If you are using 6922EH tube then yes, it has sparkly bright highs but no, imo there`s no sibilance.
> ...


 
 You should read more this thread and especially first post with additional info by Salvatore.
  
 I belive 6N11 stock tube is worst tube with Aune T1 and haven`t seen anyone say good things about it. No wonder you are not impressed.
  
 PCC189/6ES8 tubes work flawlessly (check my tube compability list for Aune T1), I have lot of different PCC189 and they all work without problems.

 You shouldn`t think about upgrading from Aune T1 DAC until you have experienced Amperex OG sounding tubes for example. 
 For me even going from upgraded stock tube 6922EH to Amperex OG was like night-day difference.

 Why don`t you try +16dB gain when +10 isn`t enough? Or, try additional separate amp for your orthos?


----------



## audiofrog

a


----------



## audiofrog

white lotus said:


> My first one had crackling, regardless of tube. I exchanged it for a new one. My distributor was happy to swap it over.
> 
> Question: If you use the line-out to another amp, does the issue remain? Or is it only when you use the Aune internal SS amp?


 
 good question.  I'm going to listen through my speakers today and see if I have that problem and I'll check back with you.


----------



## abhinit90

coil said:


> You should read more this thread and especially first post with additional info by Salvatore.
> 
> I belive 6N11 stock tube is worst tube with Aune T1 and haven`t seen anyone say good things about it. No wonder you are not impressed.
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks Coil, switched to 16 gain now, seems fine. Varies a lot from track to track.
  
 I've heard (I think from your posts) that the RCA ones sound great and some were saying that they event sound better than the Amperex OG. Might get a Genalex gold lion too.
  
 Amperex OG, the A-frame or the dimpled-disc. It's all too confusing. Maybe I'll let PM you.
  
 There's one thing for sure, need to get all FLACs form now on.
  
 edit: I've noticed one thing. Even if volume is low or is increased a lot, the voice stays rather moderate and the sound increases a lot. What I mean to say is that at about 20% volume the voice is 70% and the other sounds are 30%, while if the sound is at 60%, the voice is like 40% with the rest 60% being the other frequencies.


----------



## Devmoo

audiofrog said:


> I have had my Aune T1 since June and things have been great until yesterday.  I've started noticing a higher pitched buzzing sound every couple of minutes.  I replaced my tube but that was not problem because it happened again with another tube.  Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this?
> 
> Thanks,
> AudioFrog


 
 That happened to mine and I literally tried everything, bought new tubes and It didn't fix it. I just returned it and they sent me a new one. Hoping that's not the case for you, but the people at Aune are very generous and will most likely make sure you get a working product (was the case for me).


----------



## audiofrog

I used my speakers exclusively today.  Line out to amp had no problems at all today.  I'll try again with headphones tomorrow.  You might be ready about the amp.  I'll also try different audio cable and headphones.


----------



## Devmoo

audiofrog said:


> I used my speakers exclusively today.  Line out to amp had no problems at all today.  I'll try again with headphones tomorrow.  You might be ready about the amp.  I'll also try different audio cable and headphones.


 
 The RCA inputs worked for my amp, but not the headphone jack when mine was getting all the static. They are two different things. Also in my case I could hear the static when the amp powered on right away no audio was playing.


----------



## jipan

I noticed this too, vocal volume vs. other sound volume percentage when turning (increasing or decreasing) the volume pot is not linear. I rather like it, I could get listen to a part of music (guitar, flute, etc) without the vocal getting shout-y.
 Quote:


abhinit90 said:


> edit: I've noticed one thing. Even if volume is low or is increased a lot, the voice stays rather moderate and the sound increases a lot. What I mean to say is that at about 20% volume the voice is 70% and the other sounds are 30%, while if the sound is at 60%, the voice is like 40% with the rest 60% being the other frequencies.


----------



## CoiL

Guys, can`t understand (well, I understand actually) what you are talking about because I can`t hear such thing with my unit ;S Are you both using 6N11 stock tube or only abhinit90?
 Anyway that`s really wierd you experiencing such things. Sort of wish to hear it too but I just don`t.


----------



## White Lotus

coil said:


> Guys, can`t understand (well, I understand actually) what you are talking about because I can`t hear such thing with my unit ;S Are you both using 6N11 stock tube or only abhinit90?
> Anyway that`s really wierd you experiencing such things. Sort of wish to hear it too but I just don`t.


 
  
 I think they are discussing how the volume control is not on a linear scale.
  
 Mind you, guys, this is pretty much common across most home audio gear.


----------



## CoiL

I understood differently from this sentence:
 Quote:


> What I mean to say is that at about 20% volume the voice is 70% and the other sounds are 30%, while if the sound is at 60%, the voice is like 40% with the rest 60% being the other frequencies.


----------



## Salvatore

Quote:


abhinit90 said:


> What I mean to say is that at about 20% volume the voice is 70% and the other sounds are 30%, while if the sound is at 60%, the voice is like 40% with the rest 60% being the other frequencies.


 
  
 So what you're saying is that by increasing the volume from 20% to 60% you recess the vocals from 70% to 40% (in relation to the mix)? In my opinion this just can't be true.
  


white lotus said:


> this is pretty much common across most home audio gear.


 
  
 Hmm I doubt it. Wouldn't this have huge effect to the headphone measurements? Maybe with high volumes our ears "block" some frequencies that are more harmful to the ear? If this was the case shouldn't it be treble that gets recessed? Its never the vocals (mids) that fatigue my ears. Mostly bass and treble.
  
 Interesting indeed... maybe I didn't completely understand the original claim.


----------



## abhinit90

salvatore said:


> Quote:
> 
> So what you're saying is that by increasing the volume from 20% to 60% you recess the vocals from 70% to 40% (in relation to the mix)? In my opinion this just can't be true.
> 
> ...


 
 It's weird but that's what I hear. My ears deceive me maybe.
  


coil said:


> Guys, can`t understand (well, I understand actually) what you are talking about because I can`t hear such thing with my unit ;S Are you both using 6N11 stock tube or only abhinit90?
> Anyway that`s really wierd you experiencing such things. Sort of wish to hear it too but I just don`t.


 

 I know it's weird. That was the first thing that my mom pointed out to me and I cannot help but notice that increasing the volume affects the other frequencies more than it affects the vocals.


----------



## White Lotus

This is all sounding a little odd to me, guys.. Let me make sure I'm hearing you correctly.
  
 The tube is located in the DAC section - so it's effectively on "Full volume" being fed into the SS amp. Adjusting the volume actually doesn't involve the tube, at all.
  
 Are you suggesting that the frequency response of the solid state amp section is being drastically altered by adjusting the volume knob?
  
 If so, your unit is faulty. And I'd be VERY interested to see exactly what is causing that to happen.


----------



## abhinit90

white lotus said:


> This is all sounding a little odd to me, guys.. Let me make sure I'm hearing you correctly.
> 
> The tube is located in the DAC section - so it's effectively on "Full volume" being fed into the SS amp. Adjusting the volume actually doesn't involve the tube, at all.
> 
> ...


 

 Well, now you have me confused.
  
 Let me give you another example. At 20% of volume, I can clearly make out the lyrics as they are the things that outshine the rest. However at 80% of the volume, the lyrics are a bit crowded out by all the other "sounds".
  
 All on the stock tube :/


----------



## White Lotus

Interesting!
  
 With which headphones?


----------



## abhinit90

white lotus said:


> Interesting!
> 
> With which headphones?


 

 Paradox


----------



## Salvatore

I trust your hearing, but I'm sure the volume knob doesn't change the frequency response. If I ever notice something like that I would immediately change to some other amp/dac. My theory is that you have sensitive ears and with high volumes the lows and/or highs fatigue your ears so that the mids feel recessed. That's my only reasonable explain to this. The volume knob isn't linear, that's for sure, but it also shouldn't eq the sound. There could also be some high volume bleeding which rolls the highs and lows over the mids + something to do with headphones. Not sure but this is very strange and interesting indeed.


----------



## abhinit90

I'm pretty sure it's something wrong with me, as I can't differentiate between using WASAPI event, WASAPI push or the normal output in foobar :/
  
 Your explanation seems the most logical though. Sibilance presents itself at higher volumes so I'm not sure :/


----------



## mhamel

I think it may be a combination of things, namely the sound signature of the Fostex-based Paradox and the T1's ability (or non-ability) to really drive them.   I also find the stock tube to be harsh and kind of thin sounding.
  
 I haven't heard the Paradox, but I do have a pair of Mad Dogs that the T1 just doesn't seem to have the power to drive well.   Through the T1, at low volumes, the mids are much more prominent and there isn't much bass.   At higher volumes, there's more bass and treble present in the sound, so they mids seem to fade more into the mix, but the whole thing becomes a bit muddy. It's not as exaggerated using a tube that has more laid-back/warmer mids than the stock tube.  
  
 Running the Aune as a DAC into a Schiit Lyr makes a not-at-all subtle difference in this.   The bass is back, the highs are smoother and it all holds together well at higher volumes.
  
  
   -Mike


----------



## santacruise

I received my T1 today. After an hour of listening, there is some very strange cracking popping noise. Does anyone have the same problem?

 I don't know if the T1 or the tube is defective.


----------



## abhinit90

santacruise said:


> I received my T1 today. After an hour of listening, there is some very strange cracking popping noise. Does anyone have the same problem?
> 
> I don't know if the T1 or the tube is defective.


 
 A couple of other people seem to have the same problem and it's a defective piece. Where did you buy it from.
  


mhamel said:


> I think it may be a combination of things, namely the sound signature of the Fostex-based Paradox and the T1's ability (or non-ability) to really drive them.   I also find the stock tube to be harsh and kind of thin sounding.
> 
> I haven't heard the Paradox, but I do have a pair of Mad Dogs that the T1 just doesn't seem to have the power to drive well.   Through the T1, at low volumes, the mids are much more prominent and there isn't much bass.   At higher volumes, there's more bass and treble present in the sound, so they mids seem to fade more into the mix, but the whole thing becomes a bit muddy. It's not as exaggerated using a tube that has more laid-back/warmer mids than the stock tube.
> 
> ...


 

 Damn, I really thought they could drive the Fostex well, seems it isn't too good. Your words ring the truth. The bass is definitely lacking as I've said earlier. Just add more sibilance at higher volumes and you're bang on!
  
 Unfortunately the Lyr is too expensive. So you mean to say the amp in the T1 isn't good?
  
 You break my heart
  
 There's just one thing. I bought my Aune T1 from Aune's official store and they are awesome.


----------



## santacruise

abhinit90 said:


> A couple of other people seem to have the same problem and it's a defective piece. Where did you buy it from.


 

 I bought it from a 99.9% positive feedback ebay seller  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130722715612?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## mhamel

abhinit90 said:


> A couple of other people seem to have the same problem and it's a defective piece. Where did you buy it from.
> 
> 
> Damn, I really thought they could drive the Fostex well, seems it isn't too good. Your words ring the truth. The bass is definitely lacking as I've said earlier. Just add more sibilance at higher volumes and you're bang on!
> ...


 
  
 The amp is the T1 is a decent amp, but planar headphones like power, and it is a pretty basic amp in the T1.   It drives my DT-990/250s well.
  
 I don't think the Fostex need as much power as the Lyr delivers, but I do think they would benefit from a more powerful amp than the one that's built-in on the T1.    Something like the Schiit Asgard 2, Magni or the forthcoming Vali.   Little Dot I+ (with a whole new world of tube rolling).   Another possible way to go (there's a huge thread on it here) is using a vintage (70s) receiver or integrated amp as a headphone amp.  Most of them drove the headphones right from the main power amp with resistors.  They have plenty of power and can sound truly excellent.
  
     -Mike


----------



## MrEleventy

Some other "cheapies" would be the O2, M-stage, Topping TP21 (Has favorable review by Guttenberg). Can be found in around the $100 range depending where you look.


----------



## Salvatore

M-Stage or O2 would probably be my choice.


----------



## White Lotus

abhinit90 said:


> A couple of other people seem to have the same problem and it's a defective piece. Where did you buy it from.
> 
> 
> Damn, I really thought they could drive the Fostex well, seems it isn't too good. Your words ring the truth. The bass is definitely lacking as I've said earlier. Just add more sibilance at higher volumes and you're bang on!
> ...


 
  
 What gain settings to you have the unit on? 
  
 (The dip switches underneath)


----------



## Devmoo

santacruise said:


> I bought it from a 99.9% positive feedback ebay seller
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/130722715612?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


 
 Email them back immediately. I'm the guy that can relate to that problem. If it's happening so quickly that's not a good sign, that happened to mine in like 50 days of purchase. That seller is very good, I had the same seller and I shipped it back and they shipped me a new one, paid for the shipping back too. Only problem is they will request you to send it to China, it can take quite some time depending on how you send it, they sent it back within 3 or 4 days to Canada.. Havn't had problems with the new one they sent, but also make sure on the bottom all the little switches are to ON. That's one thing their engineer told me before sending it back. Could just be the tube, but wasn't with my case... instead of contacting the seller I bought a new tube which was just a waste of time cause it did not work, and they can easily send you a replacement tube (if that may be the issue).
  
 But it's weird that it happened to you too from the same seller... I'll be updating if my Aune starts getting screwy again, it definitely sounds good though..


----------



## ethan7000

Redacted


----------



## santacruise

devmoo said:


> Email them back immediately. I'm the guy that can relate to that problem. If it's happening so quickly that's not a good sign, that happened to mine in like 50 days of purchase. That seller is very good, I had the same seller and I shipped it back and they shipped me a new one, paid for the shipping back too. Only problem is they will request you to send it to China, it can take quite some time depending on how you send it, they sent it back within 3 or 4 days to Canada.. Havn't had problems with the new one they sent, but also make sure on the bottom all the little switches are to ON. That's one thing their engineer told me before sending it back. Could just be the tube, but wasn't with my case... instead of contacting the seller I bought a new tube which was just a waste of time cause it did not work, and they can easily send you a replacement tube (if that may be the issue).
> 
> But it's weird that it happened to you too from the same seller... I'll be updating if my Aune starts getting screwy again, it definitely sounds good though..




I contacted them. The weirdest thing is sometime the popping sound is there sometime not. I think maybe its an overheated problem.


----------



## abhinit90

white lotus said:


> What gain settings to you have the unit on?
> 
> (The dip switches underneath)


 

 Was on 16 by default, started at 0, tried 10 and was fine but lacked a bit for some tracks, on 16 now. Might try 12 gain or 13 gain though


----------



## Devmoo

santacruise said:


> I contacted them. The weirdest thing is sometime the popping sound is there sometime not. I think maybe its an overheated problem.


 
 It's most likely the Tube or the Tube buffer in which that case you'll need a new device. Mine gets incredibly hot and for like 9 hours of use a day, and it's perfectly fine. So it should not be happening.


abhinit90 said:


> Was on 16 by default, started at 0, tried 10 and was fine but lacked a bit for some tracks, on 16 now. Might try 12 gain or 13 gain though


 
 Didn't know you could go into 12 or 13 gain o,o ?


----------



## abhinit90

devmoo said:


> It's most likely the Tube or the Tube buffer in which that case you'll need a new device. Mine gets incredibly hot and for like 9 hours of use a day, and it's perfectly fine. So it should not be happening.
> Didn't know you could go into 12 or 13 gain o,o ?


 
 Neither did I know. I'm just taking a guess.
  
 If the buttons stand for the 1,2,4 and 8 gains respectively, one should be able to customize the gains.
  
 Let the button config be:
  
 A    B
  
 C    D
  
 D:1 gain
 C:2 gain
 B:4 gain
 A:8 gain
  
 All the pre-coded for 1,10 and 16 fall into line and they are the most basic sets everywhere.
  
 It's just a guess after-all but a calculated one.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

I only knew 0db, 10db and 16db. Other than that I will listen for unbalanced sound at my headphone. Maybe I'm listening it wrong?


----------



## isendono




----------



## abhinit90

^^I don't get what you're trying to say.
  
 What I said was just logical for me, can't someone relate?
  
 I guess I should just be quiet then.


----------



## Salvatore

I think he's trying to say that +16db doesn't add up with your scheme.


----------



## 3t3p

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k537/3t3p/DSC030362.jpg
  
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k537/3t3p/DSC030382.jpg
  
 Vocals are more textured and natural than with the E7 I came from.
  
 High treble is clearer and more exact.
  
 It looks amazing as it matches keyboard with white backlighting and monitor with white power LED
  
 Overall sounds more 'there' than before.
  
 Now gotta stop eyeing up HD 700's...they're cheaper in the US, which I am going to next summer
  
 I don't know if trying a different tube will be worth it?
  
 I like a warm sound and controlled bass.


----------



## CoiL

3t3p said:


> I don't know if trying a different tube will be worth it?
> 
> I like a warm sound and controlled bass.


 
 Yes, definitely worth it! Especially because you like warm sound and controlled bass which stock 6922EH tube doesn`t have. Get an Amperex orange globe logo 6dj8/ecc88 (GAC single leg dimple getter is warmer & smoother than A-frame, if you can find one) or Siemens PCC88/7DJ8.


----------



## teb1013

3t3p said:


> http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k537/3t3p/DSC030362.jpg
> 
> http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k537/3t3p/DSC030382.jpg
> 
> ...




Your 598s look great! Much better than my 558s in appearance! As CoiL says, a little tube rolling is worth a try. Take a look at the thread starter with the links to Salvatore's tube reviews. The HD700 is currently selling on Amazon in the US for $649.95! I don't know how long that deal will be on for. I also don't know how well the T1 will do in driving it. My upgrade choice would be the HD600 or 650 depending on the music you like. Based on my experience you will get a good deal of enjoyment out of the phones you have. Good luck.


----------



## 3t3p

Thanks, I love my 598's.
  
 I've just been playing songs that swell to a climax and been getting tingles around my ears that shoot down my neck and all the way to my hands, anyone ever get that haha?!
  
 The HD 700's are only 150ohm IF I recall correctly so think the T1 will drive them comfortably.
  
 I'm in no rush to get new phones, like I said, we'll see what happens next summer
  
 As for tubes, will clock a few hundred hours on the stock one before changing up.
  
 I think I understand more what 'transparency' means with this thing.
  
 I didn't expect a step up from the Fiio but it is pretty significant, was underwhelmed at first but now everything is just LUSH
  
 AHHHHH THIS THING IS MAAAAZING
  
 Oh and why can't I paste photos straight in, it says my account can't do it?! What, seems harsh...


----------



## clarkkent

I think you need a certain post count or something to paste photos

I just bought the one the member was selling yesterday, can't wait to get it and try it


----------



## CoiL

3t3p said:


> As for tubes, will clock a few hundred hours on the stock one before changing up.
> 
> I think I understand more what 'transparency' means with this thing.


 
 stock 6922EH tube won`t get better with burning, it is as it is. Well, I didn`t experience any improvement and I have burned it loooooong time. No need to wait, start hunting for Amperex OG 
  
 If you think this is transparency, then wait till you get better tubes like Amperex 7308, Amperex OG 6GM8 etc. ...it will blow your mind away and word transparency will be replaced with word holographic! ;P Don`t have 7308 myself but 6GM8 OG is freaking holographic but do not recommend it to bass-hungry ppl. I don`t mean it`s bass light or there aren`t enough bass but it`s just balanced with everything else that it`s not like other tubes with "in your face" bass. I guess this might be actually kind of typical for "holographic tubes" since bass just can`t fill those "gaps" between sounds/instruments, everything is just so very separated & transparent. To "fix" it you`d probably must have more bassy cans.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

I wonder how good T1 with Crack will be. Rollable tube for DAC and amp, oh my.  I still waiting for my OG tube from Ohio, at the same time waits for Crack. Early Christmas present! Santa didn't even know that I'm being naughty.


----------



## White Lotus

Just got my head-direct/Hifiman EF1 as my Aune T1 output stage.. Hoorah!
  
 That trip home from the post office always takes so long..


----------



## abhinit90

Aune T1 with the original stock tube sounds pretty decent with the Triple.Fi 10. It's sad to say but so far they seem to have poor synergy with the Fostex.
  
 Maybe tube rolling will help.


----------



## CoiL

Hope that tube rolling will help you. You should really get Amperex OG. Stock T50RP were one of my thoughts of upgrading but seems orthos are difficult in finding good match with DAC and need good amp as well. Of course Paradox is different league. I`m still confused about what amp to get because for bang-for-a-buck guy like me, it`s hard to choose from all those cheap amps.


----------



## mhamel

abhinit90 said:


> Aune T1 with the original stock tube sounds pretty decent with the Triple.Fi 10. It's sad to say but so far they seem to have poor synergy with the Fostex.
> 
> Maybe tube rolling will help.


 
  
 The amplifier section of the T1 does not drive the Fostex planars very well.   Tube rolling can change the sound, but the tube in the T1 is a buffer stage, it's not going to increase the power output of the amp.  Ideally, the T1 would be better suited as a DAC driving an outboard amp for that setup.


----------



## White Lotus




----------



## 3t3p

what I meant was run the tube so I am fully used to it before changing it so I can hear a difference.
  
 I like the idea of 'holographic', with 598's that will be mental!
  
 they are expensive these things!
  
 Coil will driver grade work with the T1? As upscale audio say that is the one that should be used in a DAC?
  
 It's also cheaper...
  
 or I can get a rocket logo for very cheap, just to see if tubes actually make a difference
  
 also will playing with the gain settings on the T1 net me anything? they're stock atm
  
http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/en/shop_Other_brands_OEM_Tubes_Preamp_doubletriodes/6N23P_EV_6H23P_EB_NOS_Russia_3249
  
 is that compatible? the tube you said had good bass?
  
 cheers


----------



## CoiL

white lotus said:


>


 
 Looks awesome! Remains The Question - is sound same awesome? ;P


----------



## isendono

3t3p said:


> what I meant was run the tube so I am fully used to it before changing it so I can hear a difference.
> 
> I like the idea of 'holographic', with 598's that will be mental!
> 
> ...


 
 driver grade  -  yes
 6n23p - yes


----------



## White Lotus

coil said:


> Looks awesome! Remains The Question - is sound same awesome? ;P


 
  
 It's actually a 12AU7 tube, so it's not matched to the Aune T1 (EH6922). Would this make much of a difference?
  
 Absolutely loving it, I feel like it's breathing new life into my T1. Can't wait to roll them both..


----------



## richard51

hello to all of you hi-fi friends.... I have a Aune T1(+ amperex orange globe)  and i decide to try my Hifiman he 400 with another dac for the cheap price of 50 dollars : the Hifimediy usb dac....I try a comparison between these two dacs .... I use the amp section of the Aune t1 with the Hifimedyi dac... Same amp and two dacs....The winner is clearly for my ears the cheap Hifimediy.....I decide to order the asynchronus version of this dac (60 dollars price)
 I will give to you my impression in the near future....the sound of the Hifimedyi dac civilized the harshness or the tizz of the treble of the he 400.....I have ordered another amp for comparison with the amp section of the Aune t1.....The Bravo Ocean is 120 dollars tube amp  and i am curious to see if the sound of this tube amp will compare with the Amp section of the T1... Perhaps i will combine the aune amp with the ocean for preamp and the hifimediy dac ....... Have you some idea about that ?


----------



## teb1013

white lotus said:


> It's actually a 12AU7 tube, so it's not matched to the Aune T1 (EH6922). Would this make much of a difference?
> 
> Absolutely loving it, I feel like it's breathing new life into my T1. Can't wait to roll them both..




What a beautiful looking combo. Does HiFiman still sell the EF-1, the nearest I could find is the EF-5.


----------



## abhinit90

richard51 said:


> hello to all of you hi-fi friends.... I have a Aune T1(+ amperex orange globe)  and i decide to try my Hifiman he 400 with another dac for the cheap price of 50 dollars : the Hifimediy usb dac....I try a comparison between these two dacs .... I use the amp section of the Aune t1 with the Hifimedyi dac... Same amp and two dacs....The winner is clearly for my ears the cheap Hifimediy.....I decide to order the asynchronus version of this dac (60 dollars price)
> I will give to you my impression in the near future....the sound of the Hifimedyi dac civilized the harshness or the tizz of the treble of the he 400.....I have ordered another amp for comparison with the amp section of the Aune t1.....The Bravo Ocean is 120 dollars tube amp  and i am curious to see if the sound of this tube amp will compare with the Amp section of the T1... Perhaps i will combine the aune amp with the ocean for preamp and the hifimediy dac ....... Have you some idea about that ?


 
  
 Bad news for me having just bought an Aune.


mhamel said:


> The amplifier section of the T1 does not drive the Fostex planars very well.   Tube rolling can change the sound, but the tube in the T1 is a buffer stage, it's not going to increase the power output of the amp.  Ideally, the T1 would be better suited as a DAC driving an outboard amp for that setup.


 
 That sounds like I made a wrong choice. Coupled with the reply saying that a hifimediy dac performs much better than the Aune T1 makes me want to facepalm myself pretty hard :|
  


coil said:


> Hope that tube rolling will help you. You should really get Amperex OG. Stock T50RP were one of my thoughts of upgrading but seems orthos are difficult in finding good match with DAC and need good amp as well. Of course Paradox is different league. I`m still confused about what amp to get because for bang-for-a-buck guy like me, it`s hard to choose from all those cheap amps.


 
 I'll see what I can do, might need to get another amp. I know, I myself am a VFM fanatic. Might get a cheaper Fiio offering, an O2 amp or maybe A Vali/ Modi.
  
 I blame headfonia for misguiding me, I was almost *almost* certain on buying a Magni+Modi or a Modi+Vali


----------



## diaBoliQu3

abhinit90 said:


> Bad news for me having just bought an Aune.
> That sounds like I made a wrong choice. Coupled with the reply saying that a hifimediy dac performs much better than the Aune T1 makes me want to facepalm myself pretty hard :|
> 
> I'll see what I can do, might need to get another amp. I know, I myself am a VFM fanatic. Might get a cheaper Fiio offering, an O2 amp or maybe A Vali/ Modi.
> ...


 
 What did Headfonia told you?


----------



## abhinit90

diaboliqu3 said:


> What did Headfonia told you?


 
 I read their review on the Schiit Magni/ Modi combo and I first came across the Aune T1 then. It was said that the Aune T1 is in no way inferior to the Schiit combo. They even tested it with the He-400. I thought they would also sound better than that with the Fostex. I was mistaken. Too bad I have to live with the choices I make because I can't test any audio products before buying.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

richard51 said:


> hello to all of you hi-fi friends.... I have a Aune T1(+ amperex orange globe)  and i decide to try my Hifiman he 400 with another dac for the cheap price of 50 dollars : the Hifimediy usb dac....I try a comparison between these two dacs .... I use the amp section of the Aune t1 with the Hifimedyi dac... Same amp and two dacs....The winner is clearly for my ears the cheap Hifimediy.....I decide to order the asynchronus version of this dac (60 dollars price)
> I will give to you my impression in the near future....the sound of the Hifimedyi dac civilized the harshness or the tizz of the treble of the he 400.....I have ordered another amp for comparison with the amp section of the Aune t1.....The Bravo Ocean is 120 dollars tube amp  and i am curious to see if the sound of this tube amp will compare with the Amp section of the T1... Perhaps i will combine the aune amp with the ocean for preamp and the hifimediy dac ....... Have you some idea about that ?


 
 I read somewhere, Ocean owner claim that Ocean drive his HD 650 very well. He tried Crack and recall from his memory that Ocean just a tad below Crack. That part make me interested...


----------



## CoiL

abhinit90 said:


> richard51 said:
> 
> 
> > hello to all of you hi-fi friends.... I have a Aune T1(+ amperex orange globe)  and i decide to try my Hifiman he 400 with another dac for the cheap price of 50 dollars : the Hifimediy usb dac....I try a comparison between these two dacs .... I use the amp section of the Aune t1 with the Hifimedyi dac... Same amp and two dacs....The winner is clearly for my ears the cheap Hifimediy.....I decide to order the asynchronus version of this dac (60 dollars price)
> ...


 
  
 Feel sorry for you guys. Seems that Aune T1 isn`t for your ears & tube rolling isn`t for you. richard51, one thing I don`t get - you use Aune T1 amp part for comparing when it`s said lot of times already that it isn`t good fit for orthos? Also little info about tubes matching for HE-400 - have you tried different tubes? HE-400 should be littlebit warm-sided ( as I have read ) headphone and probably OG tube + not so good amp part of aune t1 doesn`t end up good. Also Aune T1 amp part is BRIGHT sounding. I would not make so fast judgments vs. some cheap 42$ DAC. It`s like one guy stated that ELE EL-D01 DAC is better than Aune. I bought it, compared it - no match against Aune T1. Lot of ppl also forget to setup their WASAPI / ASIO / KSP properly and it also makes difference, not to mention using bq mp3`s. And as discussed before, async vs. typical is quite pointless in real life music listening - makes no real difference. But all this is subjective, we all hear differently and our taste is different, use different cans, source files, music genre etc.
  
 Hope you both find good match for your orthos and your AUne T1 units find their happy place elsewhere 
  
 Edit: Also, although this is personal opinion but imho you just can`t compare SS DAC with Tube buffered DAC ...tube rolling and finding the sound you like is whole point of that DAC part, plus, you get a decent amp all in one package with cheap price like that!?! Can`t go wrong with that imo.
  
 richard51, when you get that bravo amp, bypass the Aune T1 amp and then try difference between that hifimediy & bravo ocean vs. Aune T1 DAC + bravo ocean. That makes more sense than comparing with Aune T1 "weak" & bright sounding amp (note - you said hifimediy DAC made HE-400 harsh highs better). Also, try to roll tubes. After those different tests come again and try to give more detailed descriptions.


----------



## richard51

you use Aune T1 amp part for comparing when it`s said lot of times already that it isn`t good fit for orthos?


coil said:


>


 

 I use the amp section of the Aune T1 because i want to have the same amp for my comparison between the two dacs, the Aune Dac and the HfimedIy dac..... I have other tubes but the amperex orange was the better..... I think the aune is a good dac but the pairing with the He 400 was not ideal, because the he 400 has a bright side or a " tizz"   in the higher frequency that is ennoying.... The Hifimediy dac is not a cheap piece, only the price is cheap. This Dac smooth the Tizz and was very good in all respect.... the price is one thing , but the synergy for each particulars ears is another things.... I am also curious to compare the "ss" amp section of the aune  with a tube amp...Because of that i have ordered the Bravo Ocean tube  amp... Some member here said that  the Bravo ocean  will ease the tizz of the he 400 ... I want to try it and  I will communicate my result this week.... The aune is an excelllent piece of equipment, i just dont think that its ideal for the He 400.... the guy of headphonia convince me also few months ago  not to buy the Schiit modi/ magni.... I have no idea of the sound of the Schiit in comparison with the Aune T1 and with the he 400, but  i think now the Aune is without doubt  very good ( with my Fostex th-7b and ath m50 headphones) but not perfect match for the He 400.... I will communicate my results with the new Hifimediy usb u2 asynchronus Dac ( the better version of tis Dac) pairing with  the tube ocean bravo versus Aune t1 tube dac/amp... i will also try the two dacs with the same amp ( ocean Bravo )...thanks to all for your attention and kind help...


----------



## CoiL

> I think the aune is a good dac but the pairing with the He 400 was not ideal, because the he 400 has a bright side or a " tizz"   in the higher frequency that is ennoying.... The Hifimediy dac is not a cheap piece, only the price is cheap. This Dac smooth the Tizz and was very good in all respect


 
 And that`s why it is not good to compare those DACs with Aune T1 bright sounding amp + it probably doesn`t have enough juice to bring those orthos to their potential. Now, imagine you taking more smoother/warmer sounding and powerful amp  than Aune T1 is (bravo ocean?) ...it might get too smooth with highs coupled with that hifimediy sabre. Contrary, bypassing Aune T1 (bright sounding) amp and replacing it with bravo ocean amp (warmer sounding) - Aune T1 DAC might actually sound even better than sabre+ocean coupled with HE-400. And there is also more tube rolling with ocean to do.  
 Okay, after getting over the problem of HE-400 harshness and moving to sound part - how do those different setups compare? Soundstage, tightness, transparency, separation, vocals etc. 
 That`s my point about not to rush with conclusions hifimediy sabre being better than Aune T1 DAC. 
  
 Keep us updated! Thanks in advance.


----------



## isendono

richard51 said:


> you use Aune T1 amp part for comparing when it`s said lot of times already that it isn`t good fit for orthos?
> 
> I use the amp section of the Aune T1 because i want to have the same amp for my comparison between the two dacs, the Aune Dac and the HfimedIy dac..... I have other tubes but the amperex orange was the better..... I think the aune is a good dac but the pairing with the He 400 was not ideal, because the he 400 has a bright side or a " tizz"   in the higher frequency that is ennoying.... The Hifimediy dac is not a cheap piece, only the price is cheap. This Dac smooth the Tizz and was very good in all respect.... the price is one thing , but the synergy for each particulars ears is another things.... I am also curious to compare the "ss" amp section of the aune  with a tube amp...Because of that i have ordered the Bravo Ocean tube  amp... Some member here said that  the Bravo ocean  will ease the tizz of the he 400 ... I want to try it and  I will communicate my result this week.... The aune is an excelllent piece of equipment, i just dont think that its ideal for the He 400.... the guy of headphonia convince me also few months ago  not to buy the Schiit modi/ magni.... I have no idea of the sound of the Schiit in comparison with the Aune T1 and with the he 400, but  i think now the Aune is without doubt  very good ( with my Fostex th-7b and ath m50 headphones) but not perfect match for the He 400.... I will communicate my results with the new Hifimediy usb u2 asynchronus Dac ( the better version of tis Dac) pairing with  the tube ocean bravo versus Aune t1 tube dac/amp... i will also try the two dacs with the same amp ( ocean Bravo )...thanks to all for your attention and kind help...


 
 Don't judge aune t1's dac using a headphone it can't drive tho, and I'm not sure about whether the bravo ocean can drive it well enough or not either.


----------



## mhamel

isendono said:


> Don't judge aune t1's dac using a headphone it can't drive tho, and I'm not sure about whether the bravo ocean can drive it well enough or not either.


 
  
 The Bravo Ocean, and likewise the other Bravo / Indeed / similar amps that are all over eBay have insane amounts of gain (30db).  They work great with high impedance headphones, but are generally not a great match with lower impedance cans.   The stock volume pot is notorious for poor L/R balance at lower volumes, so you'd really want to be able to get up If you're into DIY, they are a lot of fun to mod, and you can turn them into a really nice little amp with some work, but unless you are into that for the fun of DIY, the Project Sunrise/Horizon/Ember are probably better choices (Especially after spending the money on parts for the Bravo).    The HE-400 is 35 ohms / 92.5 dB efficiency, so probably would not be a great match for an amp with so much gain. 
  
 The Schiit Vali is supposed to be available starting next week, which may be a better match.   The Little Dot I+ is around the same price as the Bravo and may be a better choice, too.
  
 The Hifimediy ESS Sabre DAC is surprisingly good, and has gotten rave reviews - especially given the price point.  It's hard to make an apples-to-apples comparison with the DAC in the T1, as you are always going through the tube buffer in the T1, which intentionally colors the sound.


----------



## joeq70

Hey fellas the HE-400 sounds excellent with the Aune T1--you just need to find a tube that synergizes with it for maximum enjoyment.


----------



## teb1013

There are a lot of threads on driving the HE400, they suggest that it's easy to drive and make multiple amp suggestions. Joeq70's comment is a good one, have you tried a little tube rolling before giving up on the T1?


----------



## CoiL

mhamel, thanks for mentioning LDI+ ...somehow I`ve managed to look past it. I think it`s now my main candidate for tube buffered amp. Rollable opamps sound great too, addition to tubes.
 But, since I`m more into budget gear, would like to just try warmer & more powerful SS amp than Aune T1 has and is also cheaper than LDI+. Any recommendations?


----------



## isendono

The ecc189 i got from mike is soooooo gooooood DD happy me.


----------



## mhamel

coil said:


> mhamel, thanks for mentioning LDI+ ...somehow I`ve managed to look past it. I think it`s now my main candidate for tube buffered amp. Rollable opamps sound great too, addition to tubes.
> But, since I`m more into budget gear, would like to just try warmer & more powerful SS amp than Aune T1 has and is also cheaper than LDI+. Any recommendations?


 
  
 The LD I+ is pretty inexpensive, less than $120 USD.  Cheaper + SS is probably Magni, or maybe one of the Fiio amps, though I'm not too familiar with the Fiio units.
  
 If you can find one used, it's a bit older design, but the Purity Audio KICAS Caliente is a nice discrete SS amp that has a warm sound.   Skylab has a great review of it here somewhere on Head-Fi.


----------



## mhamel

isendono said:


> The ecc189 i got from mike is soooooo gooooood DD happy me.


 
  
 Glad you're happy with it, they're nice tubes!


----------



## CoiL

What ECC189 exactly? My favourite & best ECC189`s are Miniwatt-Dario`s (Chartres France). They are very very good. Only thing to complain maybe is tinybit "lack" of mids & warmness with rock/metal/progressive/jazz music but that`s because I have had taste of Amperex OG GAC (Heerlen Holland) & Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8 (Bharat India).
 But they have best  and tightest bass out of my tubes! Really enjoyable tubes that can take basically every genre.


----------



## CoiL

mhamel said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > mhamel, thanks for mentioning LDI+ ...somehow I`ve managed to look past it. I think it`s now my main candidate for tube buffered amp. Rollable opamps sound great too, addition to tubes.
> ...


 
 Thanks for info. About LDI+ - you`ll probably have to add opamp & tube rolling cost. I actually don`t want to get into that rolling sickness again! ;D I already have ~40 tubes for Aune T1.


----------



## Salvatore

abhinit90 said:


> richard51 said:
> 
> 
> > hello to all of you hi-fi friends.... I have a Aune T1(+ amperex orange globe)  and i decide to try my Hifiman he 400 with another dac for the cheap price of 50 dollars : the Hifimediy usb dac....I try a comparison between these two dacs .... I use the amp section of the Aune t1 with the Hifimedyi dac... Same amp and two dacs....The winner is clearly for my ears the cheap Hifimediy.....I decide to order the asynchronus version of this dac (60 dollars price)
> ...


 
  
 I think richard is talking about the synergy between T1 and he-400, so unless you own he-400, I don't see how this would be bad news for you. He is saying that hifimediy is less bright (and softer) than T1 so it tames the treble of he-400 and therefore has better synergy. If you are using T1 you should definitely try one of the better tubes available / try to work the synergy issues with tube rolling (if you have any). I prefer to roll tubes rather than DACs.
  
 And who is saying that MM stack would be better than T1? You shouldn't feel bad reading one or two negative comments when this thread is full of positive reviews and happy customers. You should also make your own impression actually using and experimenting with the product. For people who has followed this thread for a long time know that:
  
 a) T1 has enough juice to drive even some of the more power hungry headphones (see the gain settings for optimal performance)
 b) if T1 amp power is somehow insufficient you can always get better amp and use T1 as a dac only
 c) T1 is on the bright side, so if you own med/treble heavy cans such as HD 800, AKG K/Q series, Grados, audio technicas etc. you should try mellow sounding tube
 d) T1 performance excels many rivals in it's price range and can even compete with products costing twice or more as much
 e) T1 is NOT tube amp, so those of you looking to get that thick tubey sound might get disappointed


----------



## teb1013

salvatore said:


> I think richard is talking about the synergy between T1 and he-400, so unless you own he-400, I don't see how this would be bad news for you. He is saying that hifimediy is less bright (and softer) than T1 so it tames the treble of he-400 and therefore has better synergy. If you are using T1 you should definitely try one of the better tubes available / try to work the synergy issues with tube rolling (if you have any). I prefer to roll tubes rather than DACs.
> 
> And who is saying that MM stack would be better than T1? You shouldn't feel bad reading one or two negative comments when this thread is full of positive reviews and happy customers. You should also make your own impression actually using and experimenting with the product. For people who has followed this thread for a long time know that:
> 
> ...




Good comment, Salvatore. It's interesting how easy it is to become defensive when someone says our choice is not for them (or their headphones). I'm pleased enough with the T1 that my next step will be on the headphone side from the HD558 to HD600, but I'm planning to stick with the T1.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

teb1013 said:


> Good comment, Salvatore. It's interesting how easy it is to become defensive when someone says our choice is not for them (or their headphones). I'm pleased enough with the T1 that my next step will be on the headphone side from the HD558 to HD600, but I'm planning to stick with the T1.


 

 I never be so happy with T1 and HD600. Except the bright sound from EH 6922 tube. Waiting for my OG Amperex feels like ages.


----------



## richard51

salvatore said:


> I think richard is talking about the synergy between T1 and he-400, so unless you own he-400, I don't see how this would be bad news for you. He is saying that hifimediy is less bright (and softer) than T1 so it tames the treble of he-400 and therefore has better synergy. If you are using T1 you should definitely try one of the better tubes available / try to work the synergy issues with tube rolling (if you have any). I prefer to roll tubes rather than DACs.
> 
> And who is saying that MM stack would be better than T1? You shouldn't feel bad reading one or two negative comments when this thread is full of positive reviews and happy customers. You should also make your own impression actually using and experimenting with the product. For people who has followed this thread for a long time know that:
> 
> ...


 

  I am entirely okay with these remarks.... aune t1 is an excellent dac and amp combo for the price.... Very difficult to have these qualities and versatility for this price......My remarks concern only the synergy with the he400 and the comparison with the hifimediy dac..... The price of this dac is almost three time less and i have listened only  the synchronus version which is very good....... I will update you when i have listened the asynchronus version of this dac ... I will not sell the Aune T1 for two reasons : its an excellent combo amp/ dac and the pairing with Ath m50 and the marvellous fostex th-7b (80 dollars) is excellent......Mr Salvatore resumed perfectly the many advantages of the Aune T1...... But there is also this dac Hifimediy and for the price this is very interesting..... I now have this two dacs  the Aune and the Hifimedyi and they are very good .....i will not seek for other dac... I think that the cost for having better one will be best invest in another amp .......My reason for posting these remarks here are not for complaining about the aune but for exploring others possibility for the synergy with the He 400 my headphones of choice.....and for the price of one or two tube rolling investing the money for a very good dac with better chemistry with the he 400...... The Hifimediy is portable dac..... This is  an advantage..... The Aune t1 has more versatility and i repeat it is one of the best dac for the money.......


----------



## CoiL

Still, have to make note - seems that you are excluding tube rolling to find good synergy with HE-400 + the fact that Aune T1 has bright sounding amp. Your synergy-finding seems to be mainly getting rid of treble harshness. Or is there something else wrong with sound? You haven`t given us any detailed comments about sound with Amperex OG + HE-400 compared to hifimediy DAC. 
  


joeq70 said:


> Hey fellas the HE-400 sounds excellent with the Aune T1--you just need to find a tube that synergizes with it for maximum enjoyment.


----------



## richard51

the sound of the amperex orange globe is better for me than the sound of the famous bugle boy... more interesting sound spatialization...... and these two are better than the original tube of the Aune..... Each tube has is sounding personality but i cannot afford to buy other tubes  for experimenting.. I want to listen to music
 not tubes.... and the amperex orange is in the opinion of almost all here one of the very good sounding tube and i am ok with this tube.... The hifimediy dac cost the price of one or two tube rolling  and i decide to try that for diminushing the tizz of the He 400.... At 40 dollars for the portable synchronus dac this is a success.... I own two different excellent dac now    hifimedyi plus the aune t1.... and i decide to try the asynchronus version for the price of 60 dollars....... I will communicate the  result of my experiences here ....... For now the pairing of the amp section  of the Aune with the hifimediy dac are very good...... But i decide to compare with another amp because the he 400 are difficult to drive for a sound without to much harshness .... i will receive the bravo ocean monday ..... My goal is not tube rolling without end its to look for two excellent systems i will use ....... amp/ dac Aune T1  ( very good combo)   hifimediy asynchronus dac , and the bravo ocean...... I will try all combinatoric possibilities of association and synergy with my 3 pairs of headphone....The hifiman he 400 for the price is the beginning of audiophile listening.......The ath m50  are very good i like the bass and the global sound and for a price  less than the he 400 very good choice and marvellous synergy  with the aune...... The fostex th-7b ( i pay in a canadian store 50 dollars) are  also marvellous and have more tridimensionality than the ath m50... I am satisfied with all my choices....


----------



## Salvatore

teb1013 said:


> Good comment, Salvatore. It's interesting how easy it is to become defensive when someone says our choice is not for them (or their headphones). I'm pleased enough with the T1 that my next step will be on the headphone side from the HD558 to HD600, but I'm planning to stick with the T1.


 
  
 Yeah people are often asking for the best product when they should be asking for the best synergy. Been to several hifi meetings with my headphones and tested different amplifiers. Some of them have been better than T1, but you definitely start hitting those diminished returns with more expensive products. Trust me folks, T1 is very nice product for the money (another good price over performance dac/amp is Fiio E17. No tube rolling but you get EQ instead). At least I'm happily driving my K702 anniversaries with T1.
  
 People who has problems with piercing mids / treble could either look for Ultron tubes or do what richard did and try some other dac. Just to warn you though you usually gain and lose something. In my experience smoother treble / mids could also mean soft less detailed sound.


----------



## Devmoo

joeq70 said:


> Hey fellas the HE-400 sounds excellent with the Aune T1--you just need to find a tube that synergizes with it for maximum enjoyment.


 
 Mind recommending a tube? I''m purchasing these headphones this Christmas.


----------



## joeq70

devmoo said:


> Mind recommending a tube? I''m purchasing these headphones this Christmas.



I was afraid I'd get asked this question! I haven't listened to the T1 HE400 combo in a long time so I cant give fresh impressions but... I find the HE400 needs some help with sucked out mids so if I recall correctly I used the Rocket Logo 6n23p. I didn't have a Genalex Gold Lion at the same time I had the HE400 but I suspect that it would sound really nice too.


----------



## MrEleventy

If it's sucked out mids, the Amperex Orange Globe does wonders for the dt880s. Maybe it'll help with the He-400s as well.


----------



## mhamel

A few people have mentioned thinking about using the T1 as a DAC for a Schiit Vali  - the Vali is available on the Schiit Web site as of this morning.


----------



## isendono

mhamel said:


> A few people have mentioned thinking about using the T1 as a DAC for a Schiit Vali  - the Vali is available on the Schiit Web site as of this morning.


 
 ye, im waiting for vali to be available at schiit uk distributor,


----------



## CoiL

Waiting impressions about Vali + T1 DAC combo ;P Hope this will be awesome!


----------



## G600

I've finally heated some 6n23p and 6n27p.
  
 Nothing to add for the 6n23p. Incredible highs, crystal clear and very smooth and detailed, but nothing else. A good but "unfinished" tube.
  
 6n27p is another story. This tube has a good soundstage, average details, a good tonal balance, and is a bit on the lower end. Great beginning.
 But what is that dynamic !? What are those bass !? It is very tight, detailed, punchy with great dynamic, effortless. The mids are respected, and are good to my taste.
 I don't have much to say, it's a GREAT tube, cheap, easy to listen to and very enjoyable. The best tube i've heard so far, and definitely a must have.
  
 Next step, Amperex orange globe


----------



## White Lotus

I'm noticing something interesting.
  
 Since last week, I've been using my Head-direct EF1 as an output stage for the Aune, and I personally find it amazing. Great synergy, even without matched tubes.
  
 Just for fun, I swapped its 12AU7 for the 6922 in the Aune. 
  
 I've noticed that the 6922 glows MUCH brighter in the EF1. Conversely, I've noted that the 12AU7 is a lot dimmer in the Aune.
  
 Is this because the Aune has a lower voltage running through the tube?
  
 EDIT: Also, Coil, I've done your mod with the gels, for red LED glow in the AUNE. Will post photos later - thanks for the tip!


----------



## MrEleventy

It's in a tube buffer of a dac so I doesn't require as much voltage as an amp would so it won't burn as brightly.


----------



## White Lotus

mreleventy said:


> It's in a tube buffer of a dac so I doesn't require as much voltage as an amp would so it won't burn as brightly.


 
  
 I see. 
  
 Does this mean that the sound is less dependant on the tube, in the Aune, compared to a tube amp?
  
 Maybe I made the right decision by putting the 6922 into the EF1 then..


----------



## mhamel

You should not swap the tubes in those circuits.
  
 12AU7 is a 12v heater, 6922 is a 6v heater.


----------



## White Lotus

mhamel said:


> You should not swap the tubes in those circuits.
> 
> 12AU7 is a 12v heater, 6922 is a 6v heater.


 
  
 Please elaborate? 
  
 EDIT: Found this in another thread.
  
  


skylab said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HeadphoneAddict* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> ...


  
 BRB, swapping tubes back. Funny, I didn't into any issues at ALL. I actually found improvement. Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## mhamel

white lotus said:


> Please elaborate?


 
  
  
 Just because they are both 9-pin dual triodes, they are not drop-in replacements for each other.    You risk damaging either the tube or the circuit.
  
 Basically, the 6922 is glowing far brighter because you're applying 12v across the heater pins that are designed for 6.3v, which it is not designed to take.


----------



## White Lotus

mhamel said:


> Just because they are both 9-pin dual triodes, they are not drop-in replacements for each other.    You risk damaging either the tube or the circuit.
> 
> Basically, the 6922 is glowing far brighter because you're applying 12v across the heater pins that are designed for 6.3v, which it is not designed to take.


 
  
 Thanks mate - your advice is very helpful and I appreciate it.


----------



## mhamel

Sure, you're welcome.   In some circuits, depending on how the heater is wired, it may be possible to sub or wire up an adapter, but without knowing the circuit and testing it out to make sure, it's a risk.
  
 Take a look at the tube data sheets online, the 12AU7 has two heater circuits (pins 4/5) with a center tap on pin 9, where the 6922 has a single circuit across 4/5 with a connection to the internal shield on pin 9.


----------



## White Lotus

I've just swapped them back. No audible damage..
  
 Phew!


----------



## santacruise

Lucky you. This hole tube rolling thing is pretty confusing for a starter.


----------



## mhamel

santacruise said:


> Lucky you. This hole tube rolling thing is pretty confusing for a starter.


 
  
 Best bet to start is to stick with the list of tubes in the FAQ, and known sellers, and don't hesitate to ask lots of questions.    There are a lot of fakes out there of the 6DJ8/ECC88, 6922/E88CC, 7308/E188CC family tubes - they're in high demand and getting more and more scarce/expensive.


----------



## White Lotus

I won't delete my previous posts - it's good to have my past mistakes clearly posted, so that others can learn from them!
  
 Thankfully no gear was damaged. 
  
 TL;DR: TUBE ROLLING. BE CAREFUL OUT THERE, KIDS.


----------



## santacruise

mhamel said:


> Best bet to start is to stick with the list of tubes in the FAQ, and known sellers, and don't hesitate to ask lots of questions.    There are a lot of fakes out there of the 6DJ8/ECC88, 6922/E88CC, 7308/E188CC family tubes - they're in high demand and getting more and more scarce/expensive.



I dont understand, there tubes are discontinuted?


----------



## teb1013

santacruise said:


> I dont understand, there tubes are discontinuted?




Some of the tubes like the 6922 EH are being manufactured, but the Amperex Bugle Boys, OG, Mullards, and many others are either NOS (new old stock) or used tubes from the 50s through the 70s and these are expensive and some have been known to be faked (actually modern tubes, many made in China, with fake vintage markings so that they can sell for high prices). My Amperex 7308 JAN was made in 1969 and was pretty expensive, but it is a great sounding tube. If you use reliable dealers (eg Upscale Audio in the US), you will avoid risk of mismarked tubes.


----------



## White Lotus




----------



## clarkkent

Just got my T1 in the mail today, wow this thing sounds AMAZING.  I haven't tried it on anything but my M100's yet, but they really do sound amazing.  I haven't really had many amp's/dac's to compare it to, beside the ELE-1 and C&C BH, but I like what I'm hearing.  This one has a 6922EH in it now, and I have a Rocket 6N23P on the way to try next.  Very cool, glad I got one


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Sound like the OG that I bought few weeks back already arrive at requested address..


----------



## isendono

clarkkent said:


> Just got my T1 in the mail today, wow this thing sounds AMAZING.  I haven't tried it on anything but my M100's yet, but they really do sound amazing.  I haven't really had many amp's/dac's to compare it to, beside the ELE-1 and C&C BH, but I like what I'm hearing.  This one has a 6922EH in it now, and I have a Rocket 6N23P on the way to try next.  Very cool, glad I got one


 
 enjoy ;D


----------



## CoiL

Beautiful! But why so long cables between Aune T1 and amp? And what was in your mind when swapping 12AU7 <-> 6922EH O_o Lucky your unit survived it without damage.
  


Spoiler: Spoiler: pictures!



Quote:


white lotus said:


>


 
  





>


----------



## White Lotus

They are the only cables I had on-hand out of my cabinet.. I could probably make some shorter ones I guess.
  
 And yeah - that's tube education the hard way. Just pure luck that it didn't damage anything.


----------



## y0d4

hello,
  
 this topic is too long to search what i need.
 Right now i have Yamaha 5 a/v receiver and i wondering can i use this Aune T1 front of him?
 If not, can i buy some "clean" amp, just for this Aune T1?
 I bet that Aune T1 have better sound than my Yamaha, correct me if i am wrong?

 p.s: have wharfedale diamond 10.2
  
 thank you.


----------



## White Lotus

y0d4 said:


> hello,
> 
> this topic is too long to search what i need.
> Right now i have Yamaha 5 a/v receiver and i wondering can i use this Aune T1 front of him?
> ...


 
  
 Hey mate, 
  
 the tube will only be used, when running this unit as a USB DAC with a computer.
  
 If you run it just as an amp, it will only use the solid state section of the unit.
  
 So to answer your question: Yes, you could use this unit with your amp, IF you ran from your computer, through USB, to the DAC, then via RCA to your receiver.


----------



## y0d4

white lotus said:


> Hey mate,
> 
> the tube will only be used, when running this unit as a USB DAC with a computer.
> 
> ...


 
 Great, thank you mate!
 Two more (maybe stupid) questions, i have right now "Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Platinum Fatal1ty" is this DAC will be better than this sound card (because i will use over USB, so unit will be like additional sound card)?

 so connection will be: PC - USB DAC - RCA - AMP (Yamaha) = correct? 
  
and, does will Yamaha change sound of Aune T1?



 thank you one more time for answers.


----------



## CoiL

You`ll have to use your Yahama amp in Direct / Source Direct mode in 2.0 stereo mode if you want Yamaha not to change the sound of Aune T1. If you are going to use your yamaha for 2.1, 5.1 etc. modes then Yamaha receiver/amp will use its own DAC addition to Aune T1 DAC.


----------



## White Lotus

Listen to @CoiL , the man knows his stuff!


----------



## y0d4

coil said:


> You`ll have to use your Yahama amp in Direct / Source Direct mode in 2.0 stereo mode if you want Yamaha not to change the sound of Aune T1. If you are going to use your yamaha for 2.1, 5.1 etc. modes then Yamaha receiver/amp will use its own DAC addition to Aune T1 DAC.


 
  
 Hello CoiL, thank you for answer.
 But i am little confused, you mean on Yamaha to change mode to direct (so he will not use his DAC for output), correct?
 And with that i losing woofer?


----------



## richard51

hello to all ,
 i promise to communicate my results....  there its is :
  
 I have trouble with the high frequency peak of the he 400.... It was very tiring..... i purchase a cheap amp , the ocean bravo amp (120 dollars) and the extraordinary and cheap dac Hifimediy synchronus  usb portable dac, and Surprise! no problem anymore with the tizz in the higher frequency.... no need to equalize now.... My he 400 are no matches now for my ath m50 and for the fostex th-7b... and these two headphones are very good on their own...... The review on the hifimediy dac are raving because the price is ridiculous for the sound quality....... for example i own the Aune tube dac/ amp which is a very good dac but there is no comparison with the tube bravo ocean amp/ and the dac hifimediy, for the same price (under 200 dollars) this combo is marvellous. The synergy with the He 400 is better  i think the synergy is more important than anything in the choice of a amp and  dac, the choice of the headphone is the first choice and the choices of an amp and dac are only in function of the headphone...My next move will be to purchase an excellent tube amp..... and  i wait now for the asynchronus version of the hifimediy dac (50 dollars)....I think i will keep this dac for a long time..... I think that for an higher  upgrade dac  i ought to pay many hundred of dollars and i think that  this money need to go for a better quality tube amp....... The bravo audio for the price give life to the he 400...... and now i am thirsty of the quality of  tube sound........thanks to all for your time...
  
 p.s. I like the tube rolling with the aune t1 and my ath m50 and the fostex th-7b.....
  
 with the bravo ocean its possible also to tube roll ....
  
 my best tube with the aune is amperex globe orange.... with the bravo now i have an rca coll 12AU7 and the result are very good to my ears....


----------



## Salvatore

richard51 said:


> hello to all ,
> i promise to communicate my results....  there its is :
> 
> I have trouble with the high frequency peak of the he 400.... It was very tiring..... i purchase a cheap amp , the ocean bravo amp (120 dollars) and the extraordinary and cheap dac Hifimediy synchronus  usb portable dac, and Surprise! no problem anymore with the tizz in the higher frequency.... no need to equalize now.... My he 400 are no matches now for my ath m50 and for the fostex th-7b... and these two headphones are very good on their own...... The review on the hifimediy dac are raving because the price is ridiculous for the sound quality....... for example i own the Aune tube dac/ amp which is a very good dac but there is no comparison with the tube bravo ocean amp/ and the dac hifimediy, for the same price (under 200 dollars) this combo is marvellous. The synergy with the He 400 is better  i think the synergy is more important than anything in the choice of a amp and  dac, the choice of the headphone is the first choice and the choices of an amp and dac are only in function of the headphone...My next move will be to purchase an excellent tube amp..... and  i wait now for the asynchronus version of the hifimediy dac (50 dollars)....I think i will keep this dac for a long time..... I think that for an higher  upgrade dac  i ought to pay many hundred of dollars and i think that  this money need to go for a better quality tube amp....... The bravo audio for the price give life to the he 400...... and now i am thirsty of the quality of  tube sound........thanks to all for your time...
> ...


 
  
 Thanks for the post. Very interesting results indeed. I may have to take my words back about not wanting to roll DACs and seriously consider hifimediy to do some testing. Just to be clear this hifimediy of yours has USB receiver chip with 96khz/24bit USB input support + sabre conversion chip (SA9023) as compared to BurrBrown PCM1793 with T1, right? I've heard lots of good things about sabre and maybe it's time to check it out myself.


----------



## richard51

salvatore said:


> Thanks for the post. Very interesting results indeed. I may have to take my words back about not wanting to roll DACs and seriously consider hifimediy to do some testing. Just to be clear this hifimediy of yours has USB receiver chip with 96khz/24bit USB input support + sabre conversion chip (SA9023) as compared to BurrBrown PCM1793 with T1, right? I've heard lots of good things about sabre and maybe it's time to check it out myself.


 

 Yes and i am just now beginning to hear the Hifimediy usb  asynchronus version ( i received it few minutes ago) and its  more detailed, more separation and for the price a killer bargain (20 dollars more than the synchronus version)...... with the bravo ocean tube amp..... for the He 400 a first into paradise at a cost equal to the Aune.... Its the first time i listen really my He 400.. .. I own them for 5 months now.... The synergy with the aune was not ideal..... i will tube roll the ocean now....


----------



## richard51

i am a newbie in the audio domain, i have learned in the last 5 months that  in the same level of price, (for exemple the first 300 hundred dollars) the precise price of the  amp or dac or headphone is not a significant index of his value...... for exemple the Fostex th-7b are a marvellous headphone and i paid for 50 dollars in canada....( its sells 80 in us).... and the Fostex are for the price without rivals....Same thing for an amp or a dac, the SYNERGY is everything.... and all begins with the choice of the headphone.... For exemple the Bravo ocean has an insane gain and is not a good match for the ath m50.... For the he 400 its very good class a amp with tube and is capable of driving them and make them sound....The Aune T1 tube dac is excellent with the fostex and the ath m50.... A bargain with an integrated dac and amp.... But for the He 400 its not touching the sound of the asynchronus Hifimediy and the ocean bravo..... Thanks for your time


----------



## CoiL

Interesting indeed. When I get orthos in future (money money money) will also consider hifimediy DAC + some tube amp but for now, with modded HD-662F & HD-681, it`s just perfect!


----------



## richard51

consider the asynchronus version of the hifimediy dac..... considerably better for a difference of 20 dollars.......


----------



## CoiL

I really doubt that asynchronus will change anything (Imho it`s kind of pseudo) but at that price would probably go for async version anyway.
 Anyway, totally happy with my Aune T1 probably for a looong time... until I get enough money for orthos and tube amp but there`s a 90% chance I will stick with this Aune T1 because I can`t hear any shortcomings and I really enjoy listening with this setup and I`ve found lots of great tubes for different genres


----------



## richard51

the Aune is excellent...... But all essence of audio is synergy....... with the he 400  there is for the same price no comparison between the combo amp/ dac bravo ocean and Hifimediy and Aune t1 amp/dac... i prefer at the first minute of listening the hifimediy.... with other headphone that i own Aune t1 is excellent... and the difference between the synchronus version and the asynchronus version of the hifimediy is immediately evident....... more space and details.... I am very pleased... thanks for your words and attention


----------



## diaBoliQu3

richard51 said:


> hello to all ,
> i promise to communicate my results....  there its is :
> 
> I have trouble with the high frequency peak of the he 400.... It was very tiring..... i purchase a cheap amp , the ocean bravo amp (120 dollars) and the extraordinary and cheap dac Hifimediy synchronus  usb portable dac, and Surprise! no problem anymore with the tizz in the higher frequency.... no need to equalize now.... My he 400 are no matches now for my ath m50 and for the fostex th-7b... and these two headphones are very good on their own...... The review on the hifimediy dac are raving because the price is ridiculous for the sound quality....... for example i own the Aune tube dac/ amp which is a very good dac but there is no comparison with the tube bravo ocean amp/ and the dac hifimediy, for the same price (under 200 dollars) this combo is marvellous. The synergy with the He 400 is better  i think the synergy is more important than anything in the choice of a amp and  dac, the choice of the headphone is the first choice and the choices of an amp and dac are only in function of the headphone...My next move will be to purchase an excellent tube amp..... and  i wait now for the asynchronus version of the hifimediy dac (50 dollars)....I think i will keep this dac for a long time..... I think that for an higher  upgrade dac  i ought to pay many hundred of dollars and i think that  this money need to go for a better quality tube amp....... The bravo audio for the price give life to the he 400...... and now i am thirsty of the quality of  tube sound........thanks to all for your time...
> ...


 

 How about T1 combine with Ocean. I'm thinking of these two combination. I know Ocean is good, but your impression making Ocean more interesting.


----------



## richard51

diaboliqu3 said:


> How about T1 combine with Ocean. I'm thinking of these two combination. I know Ocean is good, but your impression making Ocean more interesting.


 

 I dont have try this combinaison yet..... The reason is that i have decided to buy the hifimediy dac because the amp and dac section of the Aune t1 have not cleared the tizz in the highs of the He 400  and this was my first and foremost problem with the He 400 ..... the he 400 are fabulous headphone but difficult to drive qualitatively well ...like all orthodynamics i think....Now my problem is completely and satisfactorily resolved... I will try this combination Aune with ocean this week and i will write for you the result of my listening.....thanks for your time
  
 p.s. I tried this week  with the amp  of the aune a comparison between the  synchronous hifimediy dac and the aune dac and i prefer the hifimediy synchronus dac..... Now i have the asynchronus version of this dac and this is greatly better.... i think the hifimediy is the better dac for me and my He 400... in a word: synergy is all.... Also remember that the gain of the ocean is fixed and insanely high, then not good for  sensible headphone, but for he 400  very good...


----------



## dyslogical

I am loving my T1, but the power supply got fried (I opened it up after smelling burning electronics and found the plastic housing of the windings melted as well as crispy black wires). Does anyone know if this is a special power supply or if I can order a replacement somewhere? I've contacted Aune, but thought you guys might have some knowledge about it. The information on the power supply reads:
Model: T1--1504
Input: AC 110V~50/60Hz
Output: AC 15V-0-15V 1A
 Thanks!


----------



## Salvatore

coil said:


> Anyway, totally happy with my Aune T1 probably for a looong time... until I get enough money for orthos and tube amp but there`s a 90% chance I will stick with this Aune T1 because I can`t hear any shortcomings and I really enjoy listening with this setup and I`ve found lots of great tubes for different genres


 
  
 You got very good point here my friend. I'll probably keep Hifimediy + M-stage as my backup plan if something happens to my aune. Too much money invested in tubes to let this baby go.


----------



## CoiL

richard51 said:


> diaboliqu3 said:
> 
> 
> > How about T1 combine with Ocean. I'm thinking of these two combination. I know Ocean is good, but your impression making Ocean more interesting.
> ...


 
 Sometimes I don`t understand what you are saying. And Async vs. Sync verison difference should be basically unnoticeable! That change in soundstage, greatly better etc. ...sorry, but I think this is pseudo effect. And you are talking about harsh tizz highs with your HE-400 and synergy ...for me that tizz highs isn`t actually synergy, it`s just one part of synergy. And I don`t get it, you are still hyping that hifimediy dac without even trying Aune DAC + Ocean amp? Please test different solutions ( also tube rolling! ) and then write your final analytical opinion. Try to give more precise description about bass, tightness, transparency, separation, soundstage, mids, vocals, highs etc. Without more accurate impressions I`m skeptical about your opinion. Don`t want it to be the case like with ELE DAC where someone hyped it over Aune T1 but I ended up with much "worse" DAC. Well, only good thing - it was cheap!


----------



## Salvatore

I think those sabre DACs are very good and I'd love to compare one against T1. I'm not, however, a big fan of he-400.


----------



## CoiL

No doubt they are good but yeah, skeptical about impressions like this. Too little info for me.


----------



## White Lotus

Perhaps the Async version has other (unadvertised) improvements.


----------



## y0d4

y0d4 said:


> Hello CoiL, thank you for answer.
> But i am little confused, you mean on Yamaha to change mode to direct (so he will not use his DAC for output), correct?
> And with that i losing woofer?


 
 i am sorry for bumping and stooping your conversation, but please can i get this two answers? 
  
 thank you!!


----------



## richard51

coil said:


> Sometimes I don`t understand what you are saying. And Async vs. Sync verison difference should be basically unnoticeable! That change in soundstage, greatly better etc. ...sorry, but I think this is pseudo effect. And you are talking about harsh tizz highs with your HE-400 and synergy ...for me that tizz highs isn`t actually synergy, it`s just one part of synergy. And I don`t get it, you are still hyping that hifimediy dac without even trying Aune DAC + Ocean amp? Please test different solutions ( also tube rolling! ) and then write your final analytical opinion. Try to give more precise description about bass, tightness, transparency, separation, soundstage, mids, vocals, highs etc. Without more accurate impressions I`m skeptical about your opinion. Don`t want it to be the case like with ELE DAC where someone hyped it over Aune T1 but I ended up with much "worse" DAC. Well, only good thing - it was cheap!


 

 First i am sorry and offer you my apology for my bad english.... Secund i am a newbie and i pretend to nothing in this field... Third it was not necessary to make a long listening ,for the hifimediy dac the asynchronus version ( in pairing with the Ocean amp and the He -400 and my hears  only ) made a notable positive difference globally... If this is a pseudo effect i am enjoying it... Third on the forum for the He-400 many people have complaint about the harshness of the highs of the He-400 ( i think that this harshness depends of the global results of the pairing elements amp and dac ) I had this problem of harshness with the Aune amp/ dac with the He-400 ( i love the Aune t-1 with other headphones).Four i begin the listening yesterday with the Aune t1 dac only pairing with  the bravo amp and i prefer the Bravo amp with the asynchronus HifimedIy dac for a better differenciation space  and better smooth highs with and only with the He-400 ( i pretend to nothing in concern with other headphone )....... in conclusion positive or negative synergy is all and is dependant of your four choice : headphones, amp, dac,ears  .... All my remarks are not critics of the aune but critics of the pairing with the He 400.... The aune is a good dac but the asynchronus  hifimediy is a good one for me and with the He 400 more fluidity, more space, less harshness... I thanks you for your time and patience with my catastrophic english....
  
 p.s. i dont pretend that globally you will hear a difference in comparison between synchronus dac vs. asynchronus one..... I dont know anything about that and i dont want to anybody to believe that, but for my ear there is a difference between hifimedyi synchronus and asynchronus version.... better  differienciation in space....


----------



## CoiL

y0d4 said:


> y0d4 said:
> 
> 
> > Hello CoiL, thank you for answer.
> ...


 
 Yes, in order to listen only Aune T1 DAC you need to switch your reciever to Source direct mode (2.0 stereo) and you will lose subwoofer. If you are going to use 2.1 mode with subwoofer then it will be Aune T1 DAC + Yamaha DAC and it might not sound so good. If you want to keep benefit of subwoofer you should use dedicated external speaker amplifier (without DAC) which has 2.1 or 5.1 capability. I also bought reciever to get 2.1 mode but when I discovered that my reciever is capable only 2.0 stereo in source direct then I was disappointed. Going to sell my receiver and get proper amp for speakers. But you should read your yamaha manual just in case to be sure.


----------



## abhinit90

Since the Aune T1 fails horribly with the Fostex I'll be getting the Vali.
  
 However what I think is that, I'll use the Aune T1 DAC and then use the RCA out to the Vali. But is there anyway in which I can use the Vali as an input to the Aune T1 amp?
  
 So that in case I need more power to drive some headphones, they'll do something?


----------



## White Lotus

abhinit90 said:


> Since the Aune T1 fails horribly with the Fostex I'll be getting the Vali.
> 
> However what I think is that, I'll use the Aune T1 DAC and then use the RCA out to the Vali. But is there anyway in which I can use the Vali as an input to the Aune T1 amp?
> 
> So that in case I need more power to drive some headphones, they'll do something?


 
  
 **EDITED** 

 Read below post.


----------



## mhamel

white lotus said:


> Yes - but it will only use the solid state section of the Aune, not the tube.


 
  
 Not true.   The DAC goes through the tube buffer to the line outs as well as the amp.   If you use the analog line-in on the T1, then it doesn't use the tube.


----------



## White Lotus

mhamel said:


> Not true.   The DAC goes through the tube buffer to the line outs as well as the amp.   If you use the analog line-in on the T1, then it doesn't use the tube.


 
  
 Good catch - I completely misread his post, I'm an idiot.
  
 I thought he wanted to use the Vali as the DAC, then RCA to the Aune. I should read things a little better before posting. I'll edit my original post.
  
 Thank-you. THAT'S TWICE YOU HAVE SAVED ME NOW.


----------



## abhinit90

white lotus said:


> Good catch - I completely misread his post, I'm an idiot.
> 
> I thought he wanted to use the Vali as the DAC, then RCA to the Aune. I should read things a little better before posting. I'll edit my original post.
> 
> Thank-you. THAT'S TWICE YOU HAVE SAVED ME NOW.


 

 Vali is only am Amp 
  
 What maybe I want is: Aune DAC -> Line out to Vali input -> Vali output from 1/4" -> 1/4" or 3.5mm to RCA converter/ cable -> Aune T1 LINE IN.
  
 It should work, right?


----------



## White Lotus

Ah, I assumed it was an amp/DAC combo. 

It may work.. But why? Inception joke coming.

That's like.. Ampception? Nah I've got nothing


----------



## abhinit90

white lotus said:


> Ah, I assumed it was an amp/DAC combo.
> 
> It may work.. But why? Inception joke coming.
> 
> That's like.. Ampception? Nah I've got nothing


 

 Nope Schiit has no amp/ dac combo. Atleast none in the lower ranges.
  
 If it works and delivers enough power I might not need to purchase another amp when I get the HE-4 (Which are touted as power hungry monsters)
  
 Ampception


----------



## mhamel

abhinit90 said:


> Vali is only am Amp
> 
> What maybe I want is: Aune DAC -> Line out to Vali input -> Vali output from 1/4" -> 1/4" or 3.5mm to RCA converter/ cable -> Aune T1 LINE IN.
> 
> It should work, right?


 
  
  
 The chain would be Aune DAC -> Line Out  to  Line In -> Vali, then Vali out to headphones.   You wouldn't route the headphone output of the Vali back into the line in on the Aune.   
  
 The Vali will drive the Fostex, but I found it to be a bit too bright for my tastes with my Mad Dogs, even with a more laid-back tube in the T1.   However, a mild eq slope to tame the highs and a small bump in the lowest octave seems to even out the response very well and make them sound very good.
  
    -Mike


----------



## abhinit90

mhamel said:


> The chain would be Aune DAC -> Line Out  to  Line In -> Vali, then Vali out to headphones.   You wouldn't route the headphone output of the Vali back into the line in on the Aune.
> 
> The Vali will drive the Fostex, but I found it to be a bit too bright for my tastes with my Mad Dogs, even with a more laid-back tube in the T1.   However, a mild eq slope to tame the highs and a small bump in the lowest octave seems to even out the response very well and make them sound very good.
> 
> -Mike


 

 But what would happen if I route the headphone output to line in of Aune? It might mean that I will be using my Vali as a pre-amp.
  
 Oh ok, still seems a better amp than the T1's inbuilt amp, and apart from the O2, I don't have many options.
  
 I'm a noob so I'm not sure of what I type.


----------



## mhamel

abhinit90 said:


> But what would happen if I route the headphone output to line in of Aune? It might mean that I will be using my Vali as a pre-amp.
> 
> Oh ok, still seems a better amp than the T1's inbuilt amp, and apart from the O2, I don't have many options.
> 
> I'm a noob so I'm not sure of what I type.


 
  
 There is no point to getting a Vali if you only want to run it back through the T1 line in.  It's not going to give the T1 any more output power or fix any of the things that it doesn't do well with the Fostex.    All you end up is with the same amp you started with.
  
 You may be better off selling the T1, then putting that money towards an Asgard 2 with the Hifimediy DAC now and then later on at some point, upgrade to a Bifrost.


----------



## abhinit90

mhamel said:


> There is no point to getting a Vali if you only want to run it back through the T1 line in.  It's not going to give the T1 any more output power or fix any of the things that it doesn't do well with the Fostex.    All you end up is with the same amp you started with.
> 
> You may be better off selling the T1, then putting that money towards an Asgard 2 with the Hifimediy DAC now and then later on at some point, upgrade to a Bifrost.



 


I thought that since the T1 will have to amplify and already amplified signal, it'll be improved.

In the Vali thread I saw people using a stack of Magni+Modi+Vali so I thought it could be possible with the Aune T1 too.

Selling the Aune isn't an option for me and I have to live with it.


----------



## Darknet

Wait lol with all this t1 and vali stuff... its still possible to do t1 rca out -> vali right? using only the t1's tube dac part and bypassing the amp?
  
 Oh yeah also I think the modi, magni, vali stack isn't double amping. I think the modi is just feeding to both the vali and the magni so that people can choose which amp they want to use.


----------



## mhamel

abhinit90 said:


> mhamel said:
> 
> 
> > There is no point to getting a Vali if you only want to run it back through the T1 line in.  It's not going to give the T1 any more output power or fix any of the things that it doesn't do well with the Fostex.    All you end up is with the same amp you started with.
> ...


 
  
  
 In the Vali thread, the stack of Magni+Modi+Vali does not mean that they're using all three in series.   They're using either Modi->Magni or Modi->Vali.


----------



## abhinit90

My bad, there goes my hope.

Just out of curiosity, what will the results be?

I still can't digest the fact that if I use double-amping with Vali in the middle, it'll do nothing.


----------



## Darknet

abhinit90 said:


> My bad, there goes my hope.
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what will the results be?
> 
> I still can't digest the fact that if I use double-amping with Vali in the middle, it'll do nothing.


 
  
 Not exactly sure what's going to happen, but can I ask why you specifically want the vali output back into the aune t1? Just catching up with this thread, but I don't really see what's so bad about just using the vali out. Sorry, if I missed some information that you posted earlier.


----------



## abhinit90

darknet said:


> Not exactly sure what's going to happen, but can I ask why you specifically want the vali output back into the aune t1? Just catching up with this thread, but I don't really see what's so bad about just using the vali out. Sorry, if I missed some information that you posted earlier.



 


A thought just crossed my mind: 

If I get a more demanding headphone in the future, what happens if I use the amp to feed another amp. Will I get more power to feed the so-called power-hungry cans?


----------



## White Lotus

abhinit90 said:


> darknet said:
> 
> 
> > Not exactly sure what's going to happen, but can I ask why you specifically want the vali output back into the aune t1? Just catching up with this thread, but I don't really see what's so bad about just using the vali out. Sorry, if I missed some information that you posted earlier.
> ...


 
  
 This is my solution: Line out into another amp. Works perfectly.


----------



## Darknet

white lotus said:


> This is my solution: Line out into another amp. Works perfectly.




Isn't that just a feature of the t1? Essentially just using the dac right? I would how it works perfectly haha. 

Hmm does the line out bypass the amp? Never really finished reading that ibstruction manual lol.


----------



## White Lotus

darknet said:


> Isn't that just a feature of the t1? Essentially just using the dac right? I would how it works perfectly haha.
> 
> Hmm does the line out bypass the amp? Never really finished reading that ibstruction manual lol.


 
  
 As is my understanding, it's only using the T1 DAC, and bypassing the amp section - just using the line out (via RCA) to another headphone amp (in this case, the EF1).
  
 I don't know a lot about the internals of the T1, so I'm not sure exactly how the amp is bypassed by using the line out.


----------



## teb1013

white lotus said:


> This is my solution: Line out into another amp. Works perfectly.




Your solution is perfect. There's no double amping, the Aune is just used as a DAC, people who get the Vali would put it in where your tube amp is. 
Seeing that the Vali uses fixed tubes, a user would need to get synergy between the units by rolling the Aune tube.


----------



## GirgleMirt

dyslogical said:


> I am loving my T1, but the power supply got fried (I opened it up after smelling burning electronics and found the plastic housing of the windings melted as well as crispy black wires). Does anyone know if this is a special power supply or if I can order a replacement somewhere? I've contacted Aune, but thought you guys might have some knowledge about it. The information on the power supply reads:
> Model: T1--1504
> Input: AC 110V~50/60Hz
> Output: AC 15V-0-15V 1A
> Thanks!


 

 Haven't noticed a reply to this.  I wouldn't think there's anything too special with the PS of the T1, all you have to do is match the output you quoted and of course make sure that the connector is the same.  I'd be curious to see what Aune's reply is though!


----------



## mhamel

girglemirt said:


> Haven't noticed a reply to this.  I wouldn't think there's anything too special with the PS of the T1, all you have to do is match the output you quoted and of course make sure that the connector is the same.  I'd be curious to see what Aune's reply is though!


 
  
 There is nothing more than a transformer in the Aune power brick.    It's as 15-0-15 VAC output.
  
 It should be fairly easy to DIY a replacement of much better quality.


----------



## White Lotus

mhamel said:


> There is nothing more than a transformer in the Aune power brick.    It's as 15-0-15 VAC output.
> 
> It should be fairly easy to DIY a replacement of much better quality.


 
  
 It's an interesting plug on the end of the cable - is it proprietary?


----------



## mhamel

white lotus said:


> It's an interesting plug on the end of the cable - is it proprietary?


 
  
 No, not at all.   It's a 5-in DIN male connector, very common and easy to find.
  
 However, you can always recycle the existing cable/connector.


----------



## dana789

Many thanks to all for the great discussions of tube rolling in this thread. While my ears are not yet tuned up enough to contribute, I thought you might be entertained by this.
  
 I saw this Amperex 7092 Big ***** Glass Jug Display Tube Induction Heating Triode on ebay:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amperex-7092-Big-A-Glass-Jug-Display-Tube-Induction-Heating-Triode/321263371275?_trksid=p2047675.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D333005%26algo%3DRIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D177%26meid%3D3173625408008268889%26pid%3D100009%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D301003673822%26
  
 If I could get it to work in my T1, I would feel like I was in a 50s sci fi movie! Alas its a single triode, so even if I could get it to work I would only have one channel, but the bass response would probably be awesome! Might would increase my electric bill, though.


----------



## ppdv

Hi Guys,
  
 was on the lookout for a tube amplifier and have been reading the AUNE T1 for a while after being referred to it by White Lotus on one of my other posts.
  
 I have placed an order for the T1 and should be getting it shortly.
  
 I have been reading through a lot of the thread on this thread and will start to try the tube rolling slowly.
  
 Is this the Voshod (rocket logo) that has been referred to in many posts and is it worth picking up ? or should i go for the Amperex 7308 or goldlion ?
  
 Regards,
 Prashant Divakaran
  
 Edit: added hyperlink


----------



## abhinit90

ppdv said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> was on the lookout for a tube amplifier and have been reading the AUNE T1 for a while after being referred to it by White Lotus on one of my other posts.
> 
> ...


 

 You my friend are badly misguided. Aune is a Tube DAC with an amp and is not a tube amp.
  
 Which headphones are you looking to use?


----------



## ppdv

abhinit90 said:


> You my friend are badly misguided. Aune is a Tube DAC with an amp and is not a tube amp.
> 
> Which headphones are you looking to use?


 
 Yep, my bad. I did read around 170 pages of post on this thread and still managed to make it wrong when posting .
 I have an ATHM50c for now, planning on testing beyers/senns soon, going through a busy work period and hence dont have weekends also free, though it will get compensated later on.
  
 Cheers.


----------



## isendono

ppdv said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> was on the lookout for a tube amplifier and have been reading the AUNE T1 for a while after being referred to it by White Lotus on one of my other posts.
> 
> ...


 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E88CC-ECC88-6DJ8-ROCKET-6N23P-2-NEW-NOS-1986-/161153073863?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item258578c2c7


----------



## ppdv

Hi isendono,
  
 Thanks for the links.. will order them from this link once I have the Aune in my hands.

 Regards,
 Prashant


----------



## isendono

there's also same tubes produced in different years and will be priced differently. I haven't listen to any of them myself though. What I'm trying to say in the previous post is that , 6n1p won't work in aune t1, but 6n23p/6n27p etc will.


----------



## ppdv

isendono said:


> there's also same tubes produced in different years and will be priced differently. I haven't listen to any of them myself though. What I'm trying to say in the previous post is that , 6n1p won't work in aune t1, but 6n23p/6n27p etc will.


 
 got it 
 will need to read through COIL, salvatore and the OP's thread for more tube rolling information. am a complete noob and have a lot to learn.
  
 Regards,
 Prashant


----------



## CoiL

Don`t forget important question - what music genre you mainly listen? First NOS tube I would go for is Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88.


----------



## mhamel

Everything comes into play when thinking about the tubes to roll.
  
 The entire gear chain, including the source and the headphones.
 The type(s) of music you listen to.
 What you "like" in terms of sound, more neutal? warmer? more analytical? etc. etc. etc.
  
 That can help narrow down what you spend your money on for tubes.
  
   -Mike


----------



## mhamel

This has been posted to Head-Fi a few times in other threads, but I'm not sure if it has made it to this one or not.
  
 If it hasn't, and you're into tubes, it's worth spending the time to watch it.  One of, if not *the* coolest "DIY" I've seen in audio.  This guy has amazing skill, and from what I understand, a lot of the equipment he's using in the video is home-built as well.
  
 http://makezine.com/2008/01/07/make-your-own-vacuum-tube/
  
   -Mike


----------



## teb1013

Edit: added hyperlink
[/quote]





ppdv said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> was on the lookout for a tube amplifier and have been reading the AUNE T1 for a while after being referred to it by White Lotus on one of my other posts.
> 
> ...




The Voskhod is more upfront, almost "in your face" many people love it. Good price too. I much prefer the 7308 for classical, jazz or classic rock , liquid, musical, great soundstage . But it all depends on your personal feelings and what music you listen to. Also the Amperex 7308 is pretty expensive, in the US Upscale Audio sells these for $75 USD 54.89 €, although I use "driver grade" which works fine for the T1 and cost $50, 36.59 €.


----------



## ppdv

coil said:


> Don`t forget important question - what music genre you mainly listen? First NOS tube I would go for is Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88.


 
  
 Hi CoiL,
  
 Thanks for your reply, have stated my music preferences at the end since multiple people has asked about it.
 I will be on the lookout for Amperex, but if you see some good deals please do share it. I am in no hurry and will listen on this for a while, no plans to simply test and sell it off.
  


mhamel said:


> Everything comes into play when thinking about the tubes to roll.
> 
> The entire gear chain, including the source and the headphones.
> The type(s) of music you listen to.
> ...


 
  
 Hi mhamel,
 I am aware of that.
 With AUNE, i would be primarily using my laptop USB output ( foobar mostly ) . My ipad does not have any lossless music stored so will not use it and its being used more by my better half.
  
 my cans at present are the ATHM50c and would like to try the Beyers Premium editions and sennheisers at some shops before i actually buy.
  
 I also have a cowon j3 filled with FLAC Files for most of my albums (throw in a few mp3's for which i couldnt find lossless versions ) but i am not sure if i can use the USB method to connect it to AUNE.
  
 My musical tastes are to have the bass tight ( ex: snare drum should be tight, kick drum should be smooth, guitar sounds should be powerful for some of those metallica songs , yea i am really bad at describing how my music should be...  )


teb1013 said:


> Edit: added hyperlink


 The Voskhod is more upfront, almost "in your face" many people love it. Good price too. I much prefer the 7308 for classical, jazz or classic rock , liquid, musical, great soundstage . But it all depends on your personal feelings and what music you listen to. Also the Amperex 7308 is pretty expensive, in the US Upscale Audio sells these for $75 USD 54.89 €, although I use "driver grade" which[/quote]


> works fine for the T1 and cost $50, 36.59 €.


 
  
 Hi Teb1013,
 Thanks for information, I am not much into Jazz, Blues, though i do ocassionally hear classical (really rare) if get some good collection.
 I will consider 7308 down the line for my rock songs..
  
 My music tastes vary from listening to rock, pop, new age, alternative, progressive, metal, Indian Music, to be more precise some of the artists that i love listening to and are amongst my favorites : scorpions, Metallica, bonjovi, yanni, Linkin Park, Michael Jackson, Backstreet Boys, Celtic ( Loreena McKennitt, Enya ) , and Indian music like from AR Rahman (not sure how many of you have heard his songs/music) .
  
  
 BTW: just received my AUNE today, will connect it once i am at home in the evening since i dont have my cans here at my work.
  
 Thanks everyone, will be posting my impressions ...


----------



## Justino77

Hey all~
  
 Hoping I can get some help getting my BRAND NEW T1 (6922EH tube) to work... Here's my setup:
 2009 Macbook Pro 2.66 Core 2
 OSX Mavericks 10.9 Build 13A603
  
 I'm having an issue that when the volume is turned up on the computer, there is massive distortion coming from the T1 (via USB). This happens on both the headphone output as well as the line output. I have tested the line input of the T1 itself, and it works perfectly. I know that OSX Mavericks has created headaches for many audio devices; is the T1 included in that list?
 The weird thing is, is that with iTunes volume at maybe 5%, and the master output of the computer at ONE click up, the audio passes cleanly. I have tried all of the USB ports with no change of symptoms. 
 Is this the sign of a faulty unit, or am I waiting for a software update to fix it?
  
 Thanks in advance!


----------



## joeq70

justino77 said:


> Hey all~
> 
> Hoping I can get some help getting my BRAND NEW T1 (6922EH tube) to work... Here's my setup:
> 2009 Macbook Pro 2.66 Core 2
> ...



I would test it on somebody's PC to narrow the issue to either the Mac or the T1.


----------



## isendono

justino77 said:


> Hey all~
> 
> Hoping I can get some help getting my BRAND NEW T1 (6922EH tube) to work... Here's my setup:
> 2009 Macbook Pro 2.66 Core 2
> ...


 
 If the problem happens to be the usb input but not the line in input then you might want to suspect a faulty tube. This is because line input will "skip" the tube dac part. Try a new tube is what I will suggest.


----------



## CoiL

Also someone had problems with iPad/iOS and had to use powered usb hub. Might also be Apple software related issue but haven`t understood yet why because Aune T1 does not draw any power from USB, only data signals. Worth to try if you have powered usb hub laying around.


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> Also someone had problems with iPad/iOS and had to use powered usb hub. Might also be Apple software related issue but haven`t understood yet why because Aune T1 does not draw any power from USB, only data signals. Worth to try if you have powered usb hub laying around.




Yes, I have to use a small powered hub with the iPad or iPhone to avoid a "low power" reading, despite the fact that the T1 doesn't draw power from the USB port. It works great once you use the hub though.


----------



## naseemckhan

Hi guys, I recently acquired an SRH840 and I was told I won't be getting the best out of it without an amp, I plug it into my mic interface, a Shure X2U.
  
 Is that true? Would the T1 give me good results? 
 I listen to a lot of stuff, but mainly acoustic stuff like Kings of Convenience, Simon and Garfunkel, and a ton of metal stuff, including modern screaming bands and 80's stuff, a lot of Dream Theater as well. 
  
 Help a noob out?


----------



## joeq70

naseemckhan said:


> Hi guys, I recently acquired an SRH840 and I was told I won't be getting the best out of it without an amp, I plug it into my mic interface, a Shure X2U.
> 
> Is that true? Would the T1 give me good results?
> I listen to a lot of stuff, but mainly acoustic stuff like Kings of Convenience, Simon and Garfunkel, and a ton of metal stuff, including modern screaming bands and 80's stuff, a lot of Dream Theater as well.
> ...




I don't have experience with Shure headphones, but I don't see why the T1 wouldn't work great for your purposes as long as you use a computer as your source. Be prepared to buy a few aftermarket tubes to find the best sound for you though!


----------



## CoiL

Oh my... still getting impressed by some tube and certain band/music combination. With external speakers + Animals As Leaders / Ganesh Rao / Tesseract + Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86 = holographic liquid ! ;P With headphones, as I´ve said before, this tube is slightly "bass shy", but still sounds marvelous.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> Oh my... still getting impressed by some tube and certain band/music combination. With external speakers + Animals As Leaders / Ganesh Rao / Tesseract + Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86 = holographic liquid ! ;P With headphones, as I´ve said before, this tube is slightly "bass shy", but still sounds marvelous.


 

 I guess my Amperex OG is te parcel that arrive under my name last two weeks. Can't wait testing the tube.
  
 BTW, with AB comparison for my T1 vs Xduoo TA-01, T1 seems to have less juice. Using T1 as DAC and TA-01 as amp, no more bright issue. After get my self Amperex OG, time to return the TA-01. TA-01 is  rival to my T1.


----------



## joeq70

diaboliqu3 said:


> I guess my Amperex OG is te parcel that arrive under my name last two weeks. Can't wait testing the tube.
> 
> BTW, with AB comparison for my T1 vs Xduoo TA-01, T1 seems to have less juice. Using T1 as DAC and TA-01 as amp, no more bright issue. After get my self Amperex OG, time to return the TA-01. TA-01 is  rival to my T1.




Cool. Pairing a different amp with the T1 is not a bad idea. But make sure the gain switches underneath the T1 are on when you compare power.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

joeq70 said:


> Cool. Pairing a different amp with the T1 is not a bad idea. But make sure the gain switches underneath the T1 are on when you compare power.


 

 Yeah, I turned on to the level that I usually use. TA-01 at 9 o clock but T1 need to be at 12-1, depend on the recording. I will update my impression later. But too bad in my case, TA-01 having issue thus making T1 is a clear winner. Maybe because of driver issue with Windows 8.


----------



## spacequeen7

Hello everyone ,first of all I want to thank joeq70 for this thread which made me purchase T1 along with DT880-Pro-250 .. since I'm new to this forum and can't buy from classified section my primary source of tube is Ebay .I have purchased few tubes already and got burned on one order which was http://www.ebay.com/itm/221302634178?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 6N1P-EV(6H1-EB) .I also have this on the way and want to know if I made the right decision 
 this are inbound 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161153073863?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 E88CC / ECC88 / 6DJ8 / ROCKET 6N23P / 2 NEW NOS 1986
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310792543321?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Genalex Gold Lion 6922 Gold Pin
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181256665816?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 1962 Vintage Amperex 6922 E88cc
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200988005021?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
 2x 6N23P-EV / E88CC / 6DJ8 / 6922 NOS
  
 the one tube I really want is the 6N23P but the only place that sells them is ..Ebay  
 this is what I'm looking at right now but I want your opinion 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-MATCHED-SUPER-STRONG-6N23P-70s-USSR-VOSKHOD-Military-TUBES-PAIR-6DJ8-E88CC-/310808028449 6N23P 70's USSR VOSKHOD
  
 Thank you again


----------



## CoiL

diaboliqu3 said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Oh my... still getting impressed by some tube and certain band/music combination. With external speakers + Animals As Leaders / Ganesh Rao / Tesseract + Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86 = holographic liquid ! ;P With headphones, as I´ve said before, this tube is slightly "bass shy", but still sounds marvelous.
> ...


 
 Just a note... Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88 and Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86 are not the same tube and not same sounding.


----------



## teb1013

spacequeen7 said:


> Hello everyone ,first of all I want to thank joeq70 for this thread which made me purchase T1 along with DT880-Pro-250 .. since I'm new to this forum and can't buy from classified section my primary source of tube is Ebay .I have purchased few tubes already and got burn on one order which was http://www.ebay.com/itm/221302634178?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 6N1P-EV(6H1-EB) .I also have this on the way and want to know if I made the right decision
> this are inbound
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/161153073863?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 E88CC / ECC88 / 6DJ8 / ROCKET 6N23P / 2 NEW NOS 1986
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/310792543321?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Genalex Gold Lion 6922 Gold Pin
> ...




When you say you got burned , what happened? If you have that many tubes on their way, I would try them out for a while, before getting more. You will need a while to see what is best with your set up. Good luck. Welcome to the T1 community and Head-Fi, keep us advised.


----------



## dana789

I'd really appreciate some help from some Linux/T1 users
  
 I use my T1 (love it) with Ubuntu 12.04.
  
 When I plug it in and look in "Sound" Under "System Settings", i see:

  
 I use Rhythmbox to play my music (250K-320Kbps mp3 files primarily). I started selecting the analog output, but have experimented a little with the Digital output. Can't tell much of a difference in limited tests.
  
 I saw some earlier hints from our guru CoiL, but I'm not sure if simply selecting the digital output doesn't deal with the issues he was concerned about.
  
 I can't find any settings relative to drivers in Rhythmbox.
  
 Am I getting the most from my T1?
  
 Thanks in advance.


----------



## CoiL

I wasn`t talking only about selecting digital output, you also have to switch to ALSA and turn off Pulseaudio which is default by 12.04.
 When I was on Ubuntu 12.04 I was using clementine player and I had to do following things:
  


> PulseAudio seems to cause problems. I`m using Clementine and its Gstreamer output setting must be set to ALSA. After that there should be DigiHub S/PDIF Digital out at sound settings - select it.
> 
> Terminal: alsamixer
> ALL other sound devices and their input/output values must be 0 (F6 selects device).
> ...


----------



## money4me247

has anyone compared these aune t1 against garage1217's project sunrise 2 or ember or starlight? just curious!


----------



## yourboss

*Reviews found on:*
http://www.garage1217.com/graphic_design_010.htm
  
*Starlight VS Aune T1*
 Roland
 I've compared the Project Starlight / 12AU7 ECC802 RAYTHEON w/ Long Black-plates (With Hifimediy USB Sabre DAC As source) vs Aune T1 / 6N27P Voshkod 1969 (excellent sounding vintage tube), the Aune T1 is very good with this tube, but Project Starlight is still better  more punchy, great extension, and good bass slam, more accurate. I've tried to change LM4562na to OPA2604ap, not good idea, the sound was fuzy, muddy, i will stick with LM4562na and never change them again.
 Your amp is really Excellent with my Alessandro and my AKG K601, great synergy, no artificial harshness, great reserve of power, just perfect.
 Thanks again Jeremy And Frans
  
*Sunrise I VS Audio-GD NFB12*
 Kastle / Head-FI
 I've been using my Audio-GD NFB12 all week and while it's a really nice unit, Sunrise is still better. I really haven't heard anything that comes close to it. Just absolutely love the unit. I'm looking forward to getting back to the office next week and spending more quality time with it.
  
*Sunrise I VS Little Dot / Bravo*
 Even listening to older low recording quality stuff via iTunes sound good. Old like 80's metal. I listened to Iron Maiden's famous "Live and Death" and it was like I was there. And I say that sober too. I'm almost tempted to sell both the Bravo and Little Dot and get another Sunrise just for home, it's so incredible.
  
 Whiteghost / RG Forum:
*Sunrise VS Audio GD-C2 with moon OPAs*
 I will make another tests when i'll received the cables... but the sound of the Sunrise is far better than my Audio-GD C-2 with MOON OPAs, it means that the little Sunrise is REALLY an amp that rocks !!!
 I have just tried my Sunrise with the K601, what a hugggggggggGGGGGgggge improvement over my Audio GD C-2 : soundstage is wider, more natural and aerier, Bass slam is now a reality, you can feel the impact of the bass in your head, it's great percussive and natural…
  
*Sunrise with a $600+ DAC*
 Just tried the Project Sunrise directly connected to my DAC 19-DSP  And Waooow i must incline myself in front of a such Sound !!! Definitively "Tubey" and powerful
  
 Highs are a little more sharpen than on the C-2 but it's not a bad thing, the music seems more natural now, more living… I was hesitating between Bottlehead Crack, Schiit lyr or asgard, Darkvoice 336 or 3322, Little dot mk IV before to buy the Sunrise… And i don't regret it at all, the Sunrise is really a "Little Big Amp"!
  
 Yes the Sunrise merit to be associated to a 450$ DAC, Sunrise is not the same price, but it's in the same league…
  
*Project Sunrise II VS Schiit Lyr*
http://www.head-fi.org/t/601207/project-sunrise-ii-kit-review
 I've spent the last couple of days listening to my HE-500's with Project Sunrise II. Compared to Lyr, Lyr has the following advantages:
 * Power. While PSII is in no way underpowered for these headphones, extra power equals extra headroom. This to me, translates to slightly more air and space.
 * Slightly wider sound stage.
  
 Compared to Lyr, PSII has the following advantages:
 * Slightly better detail.
 * Slightly deeper sound stage.
  
 Overall, with HE-500's I could switch to PSII full time and not miss too much.
*NOTE:* Later he said that Lyr had slightly more detail and dynamics than Sunrise II and was slightly better overall, but the difference wasn't much and they are more or less in a similar league with Lyr being a bit better.
  
*Sunrise II VS Bellari HA-540*
http://www.head-fi.org/t/620712/review-comparison-project-sunrise-ii-and-bellari-ha540
 To cut to the chase, from the first track I was shaking my head in disbelief at how good the Sunrise sounded.  The HA540 sounds fine in my system and if I didn’t have the Sunrise I would be content listening to it.  But I found the Sunrise to be a step up, with more clarity and separation, and a larger soundstage.  I guess I’d describe the Sunrise as more engaging, sounding more three dimensional and the HA540 as sounding a bit more flat. 
  
*Sunrise II VS Violectric V200 with HE-500*
http://www.head-fi.org/t/551345/hifiman-he-500-he-as-in-high-end-impressions-and-feedback/1590
 One of the best synergies I've heard with the HE-500 is with the Project Sunrise II on a V800 DAC. Hands down.
 Powerwise the V200 knock-outs the PSii, but the latter portrays a significant larger soundstage and a better "presence" of the music. I.e. power is just one parameter of the HE-500-equation.

 If the perceived SQ is due to the valve or the constructuon - I do not know. But I know this: The HE-500 is from now on driven by the tiny PSii by default.

 The German is still better for the LCD-2, though.

 When it comes to the LCD-3 - my preliminary vote goes to the DIY amplifer. THAT is one thing I would not have guessed 1 week ago...

 Lossless -> Violectric V800 -> Project Sunrise II -> HE-500 = Nirvana*. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 * jazz, vocals, instrumental, country, pop.

 I do not understand why the PSii is not vacuum cleaned by this forum...


----------



## ppdv

ppdv said:


> My music tastes vary from listening to rock, pop, new age, alternative, progressive, metal, Indian Music, to be more precise some of the artists that i love listening to and are amongst my favorites : scorpions, Metallica, bonjovi, yanni, Linkin Park, Michael Jackson, Backstreet Boys, Celtic ( Loreena McKennitt, Enya ) , and Indian music like from AR Rahman (not sure how many of you have heard his songs/music) .
> 
> 
> BTW: just received my AUNE today, will connect it once i am at home in the evening since i dont have my cans here at my work.
> ...


 
  
 My Impressions are as follows :
 Got my Aune T1 hooked up to my laptop ( win 7 ).  Configured Foobar to use WASAPI output component and used my source FLAC files to listen to my known songs which are my favorites.
  
 First track was Hotel California by Eagles and i was in awe by the clear guitar strings and deep bass on the drums and this was at less than 1/4 the volume on the knob. 
 I soon figured that my AUNE was setup for 16dB and hence turned off all the switches back to 0dB, after this have to go up to 30-40% volume on my knob for a reasonable good listening volume.
  
 Havent done the burn-in completely, just couple of hours on the weekend, but they are quite good/ vfm product and this i am comparing with PA2V2 which is not fair becuase that is a portable amp and it does its job really well. The sound is way way way ahead better than my headphones plugged in to the normal heaphones.
  
 Oh, btw i do not have any FLAC 24bit files to test my output, all with normal 16bit FLAC files and few wav files. I need to purchase some music from Qobuz or some other sites to test the quality of output on 24 bit files.
  
 i did read the suggestions on the Tubes, but again my tastes are listed in my own quote above and request some "recommendations" on tubes.
  
 Regards,
 Prashant D


----------



## CoiL

yourboss said:


> ...Aune T1 / 6N27P Voshkod 1969 (excellent sounding vintage tube), the Aune T1 is very good with this tube...


 
 6N27P is quite rare tube and should be very good, same specifications as my OG 6GM8/ECC86...
  
 but...


> Project Starlight is still better  more punchy, great extension, and good bass slam, more accurate.


 
 I think those things are somewhat changeable by trying other tubes. 
  
 Not trying to say that Aune T1 is better than starlight or opposite. Sabre + starlight should be very good. Though, Hifimediy DAC + Starlight is littlebit more expensive.
  
  
 ppdv, with those music examples, go for Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88


----------



## naseemckhan

Thanks for the help. Another question though, will I be able to continue using itunes as my music player? I don't mind switching, but everyone at home uses itunes to play stuff and the change would affect a lot of people, plus most of my lossless files are in apple lossless format.


----------



## yourboss

Yes. You can use iTunes or whatever you want to use with any dac or any amp.


----------



## ppdv

coil said:


> 6N27P is quite rare tube and should be very good, same specifications as my OG 6GM8/ECC86...
> 
> ppdv, with those music examples, go for Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88


 
  
 Thanks CoiL, will consider the tube you have mentioned. do pass me a listing on ebay if you find a good deal at any point of time.
  
 Regards,
 Prashant D


----------



## ppdv

My headphone setup after Aune T1


----------



## naseemckhan

Thanks for the info, i kinda thought using a dac means i have to use a specific player that supports the dac, thanks for the info.


----------



## isendono

ppdv said:


> My Impressions are as follows :
> Got my Aune T1 hooked up to my laptop ( win 7 ).  Configured Foobar to use WASAPI output component and used my source FLAC files to listen to my known songs which are my favorites.
> 
> First track was Hotel California by Eagles and i was in awe by the clear guitar strings and deep bass on the drums and this was at less than 1/4 the volume on the knob.
> ...


 
 Hmm , I've just starting to use foobar after knowing winamp will be discontinue later this month. WASAPI is something new to me after reading your post , I googled it and downloaded/installed/ and using it now, but what does it do tho?


----------



## MrEleventy

It bypasses windows mixer and interacts directly with the dac itself.
Wasapi


----------



## isendono

apparently doing so will mute other applications :x so i hate to use direct sound again :u


----------



## CoiL

Mute other applications? You could also try ASIO or KSP.


----------



## ppdv

isendono said:


> Hmm , I've just starting to use foobar after knowing winamp will be discontinue later this month. WASAPI is something new to me after reading your post , I googled it and downloaded/installed/ and using it now, but what does it do tho?


 
 MrEleventy has answered your question, it basically sends the output from FOOBAR directly to the USB port which is enabled as the audio connection to your AUNE, which will eliminate using the WINDOWS audio processing in between meaning you have a clean path for audio (dont know if this can be called bit perfect though)
  


isendono said:


> apparently doing so will mute other applications :x so i hate to use direct sound again :u


 
 Are you sure on this part ?
 Yesterday, i was listening to songs using Aune/Headphones and my youtube (live streaming for tv application ) was still sending output to my laptop speakers. Also, in the mixer, i could select which output to use for my system sounds. 
  
 I can try this out today evening and confirm if you need..
  
 My next step is to try using CPLAY which basically loads the files onto the RAM and then play it directly from there eliminating hardware buffer errors during data access from harddisks, dont have time for it .. now enjoying the burn-in of my amp slowly.
  
 Regards,
 Prashant Divakaran


----------



## ppdv

coil said:


> Mute other applications? You could also try ASIO or KSP.


 
 I have tried ASIO, but which player do you use for KSP ( i believe is kernel streaming ...... ) ??


----------



## CoiL

Using classical winamp. You can use WASAPI, ASIO or KSP... choose which you like. I prefer ASIO4ALL + Winamp ASIO plugin.
 KSP (kernel streaming plugin) is easiest to use and setup and works well but can have some problems playing hi-res files.


----------



## ppdv

I haven't used WINAMP in years, but i guess i will stick with FOOBAR for now.
  
 Do you notice differences when switching between ASIO/WASAPI/KSP ?


----------



## abhinit90

ppdv said:


> I haven't used WINAMP in years, but i guess i will stick with FOOBAR for now.
> 
> Do you notice differences when switching between ASIO/WASAPI/KSP ?


 
 I can't notice a difference between the default windows audio, KS or WASAPI (eithermode) with foobar. NO DIFFERENCE to my ears at all.
  
 ASIO gives me an error of something like USB capacity exceeded or something.


----------



## ppdv

Thanks abhinit90, for the info. Was just being curious about the streaming options.
 I havent tried it myself as well to switch between various modes of output, but I think I'd be better off to not use windows Audio mixing in between when sending the signals out. I used to use Analog output of MAUDIO audio card on my computer and at that time it was ASIO for my configuration and it worked quite well.  Comparing WASAPI, KSP, ASIO can be subjective as well, and will keep it for later when i really have the time to sit and compare.


----------



## abhinit90

Take my word with a pinch of salt though. I can't even hear a <lot of> difference between the 6 different tubes that I have :/


----------



## ppdv

abhinit90 said:


> Take my word with a pinch of salt though. I can't even hear a <lot of> difference between the 6 different tubes that I have :/


 
 sure thing, i am yet to try tube rolling, what tubes do you have apart from the standard 6922.
 CoiL/Salvatore ,on this thread has suggested few, will keep looking out for cheap deals on ebay and maybe it might suit my music tastes.. no clue..but have to try it once..


----------



## abhinit90

Have 2 RCA 6ES8 US made ones, an RCA 6es8 branded UK (but made in Holland). An Ei branded, a GE 6dj8 and the stock tube of the vanilla Aune. None of them too great but decent. Was looking to buy a Gold Lion but have heard mixed reviews about it and it's tough to source genuine OG at a suitable price.


----------



## CoiL

ppdv said:


> I haven't used WINAMP in years, but i guess i will stick with FOOBAR for now.
> 
> Do you notice differences when switching between ASIO/WASAPI/KSP ?


 
 For me, I got noticeable improvement when switched from Directsound to ASIO / KSP but many don`t make difference. I prefer ASIO because it seems somehow tinybit more dynamical and "sweeter". Maybe it`s pseudo but whatever, I prefer it over others. KSP was "crisp & dry" sounding to me compared to ASIO. Aslo, 
 haven`t had any errors under W7x64.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

There is a different for ASIO, Wasapi, Kernel Streaming and direct sound (to my ear)
  
 BTW, I rush from helipad and ask my friend to send me to post office to collect my tubes and when I'm arrived:
 1) Wrong address of post office.
 2) Post office counter closed.
  
 Damn my Amperex OG. Been waiting for two effing month.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Feels like century.


----------



## ppdv

coil said:


> For me, I got noticeable improvement when switched from Directsound to ASIO / KSP but many don`t make difference. I prefer ASIO because it seems somehow tinybit more dynamical and "sweeter". Maybe it`s pseudo but whatever, I prefer it over others. KSP was "crisp & dry" sounding to me compared to ASIO. Aslo,
> haven`t had any errors under W7x64.


 
 Thanks CoiL, like i mentioned, will not immediately jump into switching between modes of audio output.
 will wait for a long while for the tubes to be burnt-in with regular use and then slowly switch. I am already seeing some (slight) improvement in some music which i used to hear and now hearing through AUNE.


----------



## Salvatore

ppdv said:


> sure thing, i am yet to try tube rolling, what tubes do you have apart from the standard 6922.
> CoiL/Salvatore ,on this thread has suggested few, will keep looking out for cheap deals on ebay and maybe it might suit my music tastes.. no clue..but have to try it once..


 
  
 Don't forget to browse ebay.de also. Specific "tubetype / manufacturer röhre" search could give you some interesting hits.


----------



## ppdv

salvatore said:


> Don't forget to browse ebay.de also. Specific "tubetype / manufacturer röhre" search could give you some interesting hits.


 
 I will do that  slowly 
  
 this my first tube headphone amp, soaking in the type of sound signature offered by standard 6922 tube so that later when i  roll i get to notice some changes in signature.


----------



## CoiL

And eBay france ...especially for Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 or PCC189 Chartres factory made tubes!


----------



## ppdv

coil said:


> And eBay france ...especially for Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 or PCC189 Chartres factory made tubes!


 
 Made a note of that as well


----------



## MrEleventy

isendono said:


> apparently doing so will mute other applications :x so i hate to use direct sound again :u






coil said:


> Mute other applications? You could also try ASIO or KSP.




When you use WASAPI via software, software gets direct access to the dac and locks out everything else. If you set aune T1 as your default playback device in Windows and a wasapi session is running, they can't access the dac so everything else gets muted. 



ppdv said:


> Are you sure on this part ?
> Yesterday, i was listening to songs using Aune/Headphones and my youtube (live streaming for tv application ) was still sending output to my laptop speakers. Also, in the mixer, i could select which output to use for my system sounds.
> 
> I can try this out today evening and confirm if you need..
> ...



While wasapi is being used, nothing else in the system can be played back because the software gets exclusive access to the dac. When it's not playing, then everything returns to normal. You can have multiple sources playing when the wasapi plugin isn't being actively used. I know because every now and then, when jumping from foobar to spotify, if I start up spotify before stopping (Not just pausing but stopped) a track in foobar, I have to restart spotify after stopping the foobar track. A little annoying but easy to deal with.


----------



## ppdv

mreleventy said:


> When you use WASAPI via software, software gets direct access to the dac and locks out everything else. If you set aune T1 as your default playback device in Windows and a wasapi session is running, they can't access the dac so everything else gets muted.
> While wasapi is being used, nothing else in the system can be played back because the software gets exclusive access to the dac. When it's not playing, then everything returns to normal. You can have multiple sources playing when the wasapi plugin isn't being actively used. I know because every now and then, when jumping from foobar to spotify, if I start up spotify before stopping (Not just pausing but stopped) a track in foobar, I have to restart spotify after stopping the foobar track. A little annoying but easy to deal with.


 
 Thanks for this information. I wasnt aware of it, will check it out. Not that i doubt what you have written above but wanted to see what happened yesterday with the playback.


----------



## MrEleventy

ppdv said:


> Thanks for this information. I wasnt aware of it, will check it out. Not that i doubt what you have written above but wanted to see what happened yesterday with the playback.


 No offense taken.  For me, sometimes when I'm playing a youtube playlist, I forget that I'm not using wasapi and my e-mail notification sound will startle me.


----------



## CoiL

mreleventy said:


> isendono said:
> 
> 
> > apparently doing so will mute other applications :x so i hate to use direct sound again :u
> ...


 
 Don`t know about WASAPI but with KSP everything (system sounds + flash + mp3 etc.) everything works simultaneously. With ASIO there is somethimes problem with chrome browser playback during mp3 playback but otherwise it`s ok (have to close and open browser again).
  
 With WASAPI you could also try this, might help:


----------



## MrEleventy

I'm fine with it locking out other audio streams. Some of my recordings are old so I have to turn it up. Wouldn't want to go deaf when an alert goes off under those conditions. It's fine when playing through Spotify, it's mostly newer remastered (brickwalled) stuff so I don't have to turn it up as much.


----------



## ppdv

mreleventy said:


> No offense taken.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Last evening, i did try again while playing music through FOOBAR - AUNE - hp and my streaming tv video was able to work. i paused foobar and was able to hear the sound. Something does not seem to be right with my config in this case.
  
  
  
  


coil said:


> Don`t know about WASAPI but with KSP everything (system sounds + flash + mp3 etc.) everything works simultaneously. With ASIO there is somethimes problem with chrome browser playback during mp3 playback but otherwise it`s ok (have to close and open browser again).
> 
> With WASAPI you could also try this, might help:


 
 But then, as CoiL has suggested in the screenshot ( i havent configured advanced properties for exclusive audio priority ). could that be the case in my setup that i am able to hear both ?
 Not that i am interested to hear both at the same time and would only want music to be played at any given point of time, i would turn of AUNE if i wanted to watch stream videos.
  
 Is there any link/thread for configuring foobar for optimum playback settings ?
  
 need to try this out later today........


----------



## Salvatore

mreleventy said:


> When you use WASAPI via software, software gets direct access to the dac and locks out everything else. If you set aune T1 as your default playback device in Windows and a wasapi session is running, they can't access the dac so everything else gets muted.


 
  
 This is correct. It was kind of annoying at first but once I got used to it it doesn't bother me anymore.


----------



## CoiL

ppdv said:


> > With WASAPI you could also try this, might help:
> 
> 
> 
> But then, as CoiL has suggested in the screenshot ( i havent configured advanced properties for exclusive audio priority ). could that be the case in my setup that i am able to hear both ?


 
 Yes. That`s what I wanted to point out. If you remove those ticks you should be able to hear everything simultaneously


----------



## Salvatore

Cool need to try that out.


----------



## ppdv

coil said:


> Yes. That`s what I wanted to point out. If you remove those ticks you should be able to hear everything simultaneously


 
 Aah, that makes sense in my setup then. Thanks CoiL.
 I have to see the properties of my audio configuration on my laptop then tonight. I guess that should clear this for me.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Tube collected... Supposed to test by this time but hell, raining and cause our helicopter turn back to hangar, and I'm stuck here.


----------



## isendono

coil said:


> Yes. That`s what I wanted to point out. If you remove those ticks you should be able to hear everything simultaneously


 
 if i untick those two, i can't use wasapi on my foobar , it says "exclusive mode not allowed"


----------



## spacequeen7

Installed WASAPI + Foobar 2K yesterday without a hitch (love it )
 from this instruction 
  
http://www.cambridgeaudio.com/media/windows_7_wasapi_setup-1353494368.pdf
  
 I was able to to convert some music in to MP3 320kbps + copy to Foobar but it still shows* lossy  is that right ?,shouldn't be *Free Lossless ??
 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/0tu6.jpg/
 Sorry for such a noobish question 
  
  
 P.S. I'm little exited about this tubes coming my way 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/12/wmbt.jpg/


----------



## MrEleventy

MP3 is a lossy format. FLAC/ALAC + others are lossless.


----------



## spacequeen7

what's your recommendations ?


----------



## MrEleventy

ppdv said:


> Last evening, i did try again while playing music through FOOBAR - AUNE - hp and my streaming tv video was able to work. i paused foobar and was able to hear the sound. Something does not seem to be right with my config in this case.


 lol I re-read your post about listening through the T1 w/ headphones while videos were outputting through the laptop speakers. That's normal. The video probably found the laptop's internal soundcard and outputted through there. The T1 is locked but the laptop has it's own soundcard and will playback through there as long as it's not disabled.



spacequeen7 said:


> what's your recommendations ?


You don't need to install FLAC to playback FLAC from Foobar, it should be native. You only need FLAC for encoding to FLAC from other formats. If you have the CDs, use EAC to rip to flac.


----------



## ppdv

mreleventy said:


> lol I re-read your post about listening through the T1 w/ headphones while videos were outputting through the laptop speakers. That's normal. The video probably found the laptop's internal soundcard and outputted through there. The T1 is locked but the laptop has it's own soundcard and will playback through there as long as it's not disabled.


 
  
 Yep, thats what i was referring to. no worries, as long as i get my music on my Aune/HP i wouldnt be streaming my TV output anymore. I would be still checking the configuration like CoiL has sent out in his screenshot, just for my reference.


----------



## Justino77

Just as an update...
 The T1 was indeed a faulty unit. I have since returned it for an exchange, and the replacement works like a charm. 
 Thanks for the suggestions on a fix. It was great to have a few other things to try and troubleshoot. Cheers!


----------



## isendono

justino77 said:


> Just as an update...
> The T1 was indeed a faulty unit. I have since returned it for an exchange, and the replacement works like a charm.
> Thanks for the suggestions on a fix. It was great to have a few other things to try and troubleshoot. Cheers!


 
 cool


----------



## smagicmans

I just want to say that the aune t1 I have is so good, it was best bang for the buck imo.


----------



## abhinit90

smagicmans said:


> I just want to say that the aune t1 I have is so good, it was best bang for the buck imo.


 
 What are the headphones you use them with.
  
 And just as a query, have you tried other DAC's and amps


----------



## Illbetheone

smagicmans said:


> I just want to say that the aune t1 I have is so good, it was best bang for the buck imo.


 
 Could not agree more. Try other tubes to get different sounds.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

First of all I want to say thank you to those encouraging me to get Amperex instead of Bugle Boy that offered locally. I get a better deal, threesomes tube but just a tad higher than the local BB. And thank you for providing me the link. I'd been spoon feed or tube feed by this thread member.
  
  
 Amperex 6DJ8/E88CC is here. Just spend 1 hour testing them all but with short time, noticeable upgrade from EH6922 would be:
  

  
  
 1) No more ear piercing sound.
 2) Music becoming less thin, add a little body.
 3) Better bass impact.
 4) Larger soundstage.
 5) Suitable for metalhead music. (I'm a metalhead but at the same time listen to other genre.)
 6) Not just metalhead, improve music in EDM and R&B too. In other word, universal improvement.
  
  
 However, the bass less rumbling inside my ear but I'm okay with that since I'm not a bass head. Plus, no more ear piercing bright. IMO, it's still bright but it's more like polite bright, better than Beyer bright. I tested EH6922 with Xduoo TA-01 amp before and it's warmer than T1 with 6DJ8 and stock tube along. But again, HD600 is a neutral headphone and some considered as bright.
  
 Now I waiting for Crack. Let's see how Aune T1 pair with Crack will do. My current aim is looking for mid entry tube DAC, I love tube!
  
 BTW, I bought my tube from ebay, took me 3 weeks. Well, about 5 weeks. 3 weeks to arrive at my country, 2 weeks stuck at post office.
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3x-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-6922-Tubes-A-Frame-Holland-/300903204541?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460f3a86bd
  
 I can't here any obvious different between these 3 tubes.


----------



## spacequeen7

I received some as well  ..really nice upgrade from stock Electro Harmonix 6922EH ,this tubes make T1 shine big time,I think I need to spend more time  with them but here are my first impressions   
  
_Genalex Gold Lion 6922 Gold Pin​ (this was the first tube that replaced the stock _6922EH )
_-_soundstage
 -warm and fun 
 -good bass 
 -it seems like this will be  good all around tube 
  
_1962 Vintage Amperex 6922 E88cc Hewlett Packard  "7L6 *2c" Goldpins (I thought that Genalex was very good tube but when I fired up this one I was smiling ...)_
_this tube can make your mouth-water ,for some reason I had watermelon on my mind when listening to Moonlight/The Piano Guys and Kitaro ..lol_
_-bid soundstage  !_
_-dynamic and inviting _
_-smooth_
_ __I'm very impressed with this one_
  

  
_ _


----------



## Devmoo

Anyone got a tube to recommend for the hi fiman he 400's? I'm getting them for Christmas and I can also grab a new tube (apparently some are better?) so i'm using the 6922 eh right now and it's amazing already.
  
 Also can somebody link me those tube holders?


----------



## CoiL

diaboliqu3 said:


> First of all I want to say thank you to those encouraging me to get Amperex instead of Bugle Boy that offered locally. I get a better deal, threesomes tube but just a tad higher than the local BB. And thank you for providing me the link. I'd been spoon feed or tube feed by this thread member.
> 
> 
> Amperex 6DJ8/E88CC is here. Just spend 1 hour testing them all but with short time, noticeable upgrade from EH6922 would be:
> ...


 
 It seems you managed to get 1 single leg GAC coded also! This should be best out of them.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> It seems you managed to get 1 single leg GAC coded also! This should be best out of them.


 

 Which one is it sir? The best means different sound?


----------



## CoiL

eeemmh... I already told that it has single support leg and GAC code (should be)... but I`ll make it easier for you - it`s the 1st from right side on the pic ;D Does it have disc getter or O-ring getter? If it`s with dimpled disc then it should be GAC coded. If that`s the case then it has tinybit smoother highs and it`s more dynamical sounding. I have talked lot about this tube already, use thread search


----------



## isendono

devmoo said:


> Anyone got a tube to recommend for the hi fiman he 400's? I'm getting them for Christmas and I can also grab a new tube (apparently some are better?) so i'm using the 6922 eh right now and it's amazing already.
> 
> Also can somebody link me those tube holders?


 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOVIB-Socket-Saver-with-Vibration-Redu-Plug-Play-9-pin-B9A-NOT-Made-in-China-/161065066374?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item258039df86


----------



## pjp1

Hello,
  
 I just picked up an Aune T1 and have a couple questions.  I've connected it via USB to an iMac to drive both headphones (via the T1 headphone jack) and Adam A3x powered monitors (via the T1 RCA outputs).  From what I've read in this thread, I believe the headphone output is using the T1 internal amp and the monitor RCA outputs are bypassing the T1 internal amp.
  
 My questions:
  
 1. Is it correct that the internal T1 amp is bypassed when I use the RCA outputs for the monitors?
 2. If the T1 amp is bypassed for the monitor output, why do the iMac keyboard volume controls work for the monitors?  (I'm happy that they work, I just don't understand why -- I would have expected iMac keyboard volume controls to have no effect since the only connection between the Mac and T1 is digital USB)
  
 Thanks,
 Peter


----------



## CoiL

1. Yes
 2. Probably your iMac output isn`t set to pure digital out without going through OS software mixer. For windows you can use WASAPI, ASIO or KSP, for linux ALSA. For iMac (if it uses OSX) I owe you an answer because I don`t have experience setting that software audio output properly. But if you are able to control volume with your iMac then it refers signal is going through OS software mixer.


----------



## icecap

some tube sales going here at quartz for a good price.. at least better than what I paid for! especially the Siemens... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 but since then, is nothing but enjoyable.. hah..


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> eeemmh... I already told that it has single support leg and GAC code (should be)... but I`ll make it easier for you - it`s the 1st from right side on the pic ;D Does it have disc getter or O-ring getter? If it`s with dimpled disc then it should be GAC coded. If that`s the case then it has tinybit smoother highs and it`s more dynamical sounding. I have talked lot about this tube already, use thread search


 
 Hi, yeah I read about the sound but sorry, I was sleepy while typing. 3 pages search result of "GAC code" really helpful.  BTW, how to know if its support leg and GAC code? I did some google and not really help me.  What to look at disc getter, o-ring getter or dimpled disc.


----------



## CoiL

oh my... please read the first post for useful information by Salvatore.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

coil said:


> oh my... please read the first post for useful information by Salvatore.


 

 Oh my... Why do I always miss that?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Below is another angle of the tubes:
  

  
 From Salvatore post, my founding as below. Left to right:
  
 1) A-frame dimpled disc, GAG 3G5
 2) PQ A-frame dimpled disc, GAG 4G1.
 3) Single leg dimpled disc, GAC 914
  
 Correct me if I'm wrong and kindly add me if something missing. Forgive my slow learning capabilities. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
 Edit: I knew somehow I will make mistake and confuse.


----------



## Kamiru

Which one should I choose for best quality audio? I am using an Aune T1 of course.


----------



## pjp1

coil said:


> 1. Yes
> 2. Probably your iMac output isn`t set to pure digital out without going through OS software mixer. For windows you can use WASAPI, ASIO or KSP, for linux ALSA. For iMac (if it uses OSX) I owe you an answer because I don`t have experience setting that software audio output properly. But if you are able to control volume with your iMac then it refers signal is going through OS software mixer.


 
  
 Thanks for the feedback.  I guess that means that it is still using the iMac internal DAC for that OS mixer and that I need to get that out of the loop to get any real benefit from the T1 DAC.  I searched for Mac setup for an external DAC, but can't find anything to disable it.  My search did point a Mac applications/utilities/midi program to set up the Aune device.  I used the midi tool to change the default 16-bit/44.1k to 24-bit/44.1k (I didn't get any sound when I set it to 24/96k, only 24/44.1k).  Even after the midi changes, the volume control still works so I think the internal software OS mixer still seems to be in loop.


----------



## Salvatore

diaboliqu3 said:


> Below is another angle of the tubes:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Usually those A-frames have dimpled disc getter and single legs have halo getter. Dimpled disc is a solid disc with small dimples on it and halo getter is just a metallic ring. In my understanding the A-frames are more modern invention (late 60's / early 70's). They were designed to provide stronger support and make the tubes less susceptible to microphonics. The single legs should be older and rarer. According to *Coil*'s impressions the single legs are also superior in sound. PQ = premium quality = longer life.


----------



## Devmoo

Got the Hifiman he 400's to equip with my Aune. Coming in soon . Unfortunately my dad thinks it's a waste of money to purchase an upgraded tube and doesn't really understand.. so for now I hope the 6922 EH will be fine.


----------



## dana789

Any linux users out there? I started using a player called DeaDBeef (not so enamoured of the name). It allows me to select the ALSA output plug-in and the DigiHug USB output device. So I think I'm going straight to ALSA and then to the T1's driver with no intervening pulseaudio, etc. My T1 never sounded better. I think this addresses the issue raised by CoiL with pulseaudio possibly downsampling before the device driver.  DeaDBeef is very lightweight, so far I like it.
  
 Here are some installation instructions for Ubuntu which worked fine for me:
  
 http://ubuntuhandbook.org/index.php/2013/09/install-deadbeef-player-ubuntu/


----------



## diaBoliQu3

salvatore said:


> Usually those A-frames have dimpled disc getter and single legs have halo getter. Dimpled disc is a solid disc with small dimples on it and halo getter is just a metallic ring. In my understanding the A-frames are more modern invention (late 60's / early 70's). They were designed to provide stronger support and make the tubes less susceptible to microphonics. The single legs should be older and rarer. According to *Coil*'s impressions the single legs are also superior in sound. PQ = premium quality = longer life.


 
  
 Hi.. yes, I'm a bit confuse on that getter part. Sorry,,, Mine single leg is dimpled disc for sure, so on the other two. According to my ear, no different for those 3 tubes. But I rarely spend time comparing them. Plus, I'm newb so maybe I can't detect that. BTW sir, what do you think the other tube is?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Double...


----------



## CoiL

dana789 said:


> Any linux users out there? I started using a player called DeaDBeef (not so enamoured of the name). It allows me to select the ALSA output plug-in and the DigiHug USB output device. So I think I'm going straight to ALSA and then to the T1's driver with no intervening pulseaudio, etc. My T1 never sounded better. I think this addresses the issue raised by CoiL with pulseaudio possibly downsampling before the device driver.  DeaDBeef is very lightweight, so far I like it.
> 
> Here are some installation instructions for Ubuntu which worked fine for me:
> 
> http://ubuntuhandbook.org/index.php/2013/09/install-deadbeef-player-ubuntu/


 
 Easier and wider spread option would be Clementine which works well with ALSA. But there are many different players supporting ALSA, just don`t forget to kill pulseaudio from Ubuntu sound mixer.


----------



## Salvatore

diaboliqu3 said:


>


 
  
 I think these two posts could help you identify your orange prints:
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/1740#post_9396448
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/1275#post_9284658


----------



## Za Warudo

I'm considering getting a T1 for my HE-400.  Even though some people have said that the T1 works well with it, I'm a bit confused because the T1 has an output impedance of 10ohms whereas the HE400 has 35ohm of impedance.  Shouldn't the HP have at least 8x the impedance of the output impedance of the amp to work well?  Also I'm confused at how a DAC would use a tube to color its sound, since a DAC should only convert digital data into analogue, how would a tube change the way that works?


----------



## abhinit90

za warudo said:


> I'm considering getting a T1 for my HE-400.  Even though some people have said that the T1 works well with it, I'm a bit confused because the T1 has an output impedance of 10ohms whereas the HE400 has 35ohm of impedance.  Shouldn't the HP have at least 8x the impedance of the output impedance of the amp to work well?  Also I'm confused at how a DAC would use a tube to color its sound, since a DAC should only convert digital data into analogue, how would a tube change the way that works?


 
 In my opinion, don't. It might be decent with an HE-400 but it is absolutely horrible with my Fostex T50RP (low impedance ortho). You'll be better off looking somewhere else.
  
 No idea on the 8x factor though.
  
 A DAC changes from digital to analog, as you've said. But each tube is different and has an effect on the sound, this effect is called colouration, because the tubes add something that wasn't originally there. A tube changes the sound as it flows through it. Since it isn't a tube amp, the sound should isn't affected by the tubes in an amp(From what my limited research tells me)
  
 Colouring has nothing to with how can a tube in a DAC colour a sound, even an attenuator or a cable can cause colouration imo.
  
 Mind you, I might be wrong.


----------



## slovetro

I'm sorry if this was posted somewhere else earlier but I am not planning on reading 200+ pages of this thread before posting.  
  
 I am wondering where I can buy a single Tungsram PCC88/7DJ8 tube.  I have read a bit about the difference between this one and the EH (rocket) tube.  I think I prefer this one, but if someone else believes that the EH is better with electronic music, I would love to hear about it.  
  
 I want to make my first roll, and mainly listen to electronic music.  I think one of these would be best and I am currently leaning towards the Tungsram.  
  
 Thanks!


----------



## isendono

slovetro said:


> I'm sorry if this was posted somewhere else earlier but I am not planning on reading 200+ pages of this thread before posting.
> 
> I am wondering where I can buy a single Tungsram PCC88/7DJ8 tube.  I have read a bit about the difference between this one and the EH (rocket) tube.  I think I prefer this one, but if someone else believes that the EH is better with electronic music, I would love to hear about it.
> 
> ...


 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-PCC88-7DJ8-PCC-88-TUNGSRAM-NOS-NEW-OWN-BOX-/370951275170?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&hash=item565e6b42a2
  
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TUNGSRAM-PCC88-tubes-NOS-2-pcs-/261291116521?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd62a07e9


----------



## slovetro

Thank you! That helps and I will probably buy that. 

Two questions though: are tubes always sold in pairs? And if so, why? 

And, if I do have to buy the pair, is there anyone in the Arizona/southern California area who would want to split this purchase with me?


----------



## pjp1

Is Aune T1 owners manual posted anywhere online?  I've searched but have been unable to find it.  I'm looking for iMac 27" (10.6.8) setup instructions.  Right now the T1 is connected via USB, but the keyboard volume controls still change the level of sound coming out of the T1, so it seems like it is going through an internal DAC/ADC cycle within the iMac before it sends the output to the T1.


----------



## CoiL

slovetro said:


> Thank you! That helps and I will probably buy that.
> 
> Two questions though: are tubes always sold in pairs? And if so, why?
> 
> And, if I do have to buy the pair, is there anyone in the Arizona/southern California area who would want to split this purchase with me?


 
  
 If you use search, then I have given many comments about Tungsram PCC88. Indeed it`s good with electronic music and has better bass & kick than stock 6922EH.
 But since you are located in US I recommend you to get JAN Sylvania 6922 green label. It has also great soundstage, great bass & kick and mids are better than Tungsram.
 JAN Sylvania 6922 is second best tube I have for electronic music after Miniwatt-Dario ECC189. Also that Sylvania is much better when vocals come into play with EDM.
 Here is one good offer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6922-Sylvania-Electronic-Tubes-/251024184077?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7235130d
  
  


pjp1 said:


> Is Aune T1 owners manual posted anywhere online?  I've searched but have been unable to find it.


 
 Please read 1st post useful info by Salvatore! But I think you can`t find any useful info about setting up T1 with Mac from there.


----------



## pjp1

coil said:


> Please read 1st post useful info by Salvatore! But I think you can`t find any useful info about setting up T1 with Mac from there.


 
  
 Thanks -- I had read the first post before posting at all in this thread, but missed the link to Salvatore's post.  Good info there and good to see the manual.  As you predicted, still no joy in Mudville regarding the iMac setup though.


----------



## dana789

For linux users....
  
 I think that DeaDBeef completely bypassed pulseaudio, so I don't need to remove it. Maybe some other apps will want to use it. If I kill pulseaudio while I'm playing music with DeaDBeef to the T1 via ALSA, I do not hear any kind of glitch. The pulseaudio daemon restarts, but since I don't hear a bobble or glitch of any kind I think pulseaudio is out of the picture.


----------



## TestaRossa

My noob question: so I have the T1 connected to my pc via usb and line level output connected to jbl lsr305 speakers. The volume pot on the T1 only controls the volume of the headphone but not line output. So I'm just wondering, instead of adjusting the volume knobs on the back of the speakers, can I adjust the volume in foobar without loosing SQ?


----------



## MrEleventy

testarossa said:


> My noob question: so I have the T1 connected to my pc via usb and line level output connected to jbl lsr305 speakers. The volume pot on the T1 only controls the volume of the headphone but not line output. So I'm just wondering, instead of adjusting the volume knobs on the back of the speakers, can I adjust the volume in foobar without loosing SQ?


 Depends on your set up. If you have it set up to output at 24bit and you're only playing 16 bit files, then yes. You can adjust volume via software(preferably through window's mixer)You get some overhead when playing 16bit because it gets "upsampled" to 24 bit (extra bits get tacked on to the end of the 16) and adjusting the volume down will only throw away the tacked on bits.


----------



## MrEleventy

Double


----------



## TestaRossa

mreleventy said:


> testarossa said:
> 
> 
> > My noob question: so I have the T1 connected to my pc via usb and line level output connected to jbl lsr305 speakers. The volume pot on the T1 only controls the volume of the headphone but not line output. So I'm just wondering, instead of adjusting the volume knobs on the back of the speakers, can I adjust the volume in foobar without loosing SQ?
> ...




Thanks and wow that's more complicated than I thought it would be. Guess I'd better just stop being lazy then


----------



## slovetro

coil said:


> If you use search, then I have given many comments about Tungsram PCC88. Indeed it`s good with electronic music and has better bass & kick than stock 6922EH.
> But since you are located in US I recommend you to get JAN Sylvania 6922 green label. It has also great soundstage, great bass & kick and mids are better than Tungsram.
> JAN Sylvania 6922 is second best tube I have for electronic music after Miniwatt-Dario ECC189. Also that Sylvania is much better when vocals come into play with EDM.
> Here is one good offer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6922-Sylvania-Electronic-Tubes-/251024184077?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7235130d
> ...


 
 Cool.  This one does seem to have some good reviews.  I was reading about some others and Bugle Boy kept popping up.  For example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radio-Tubes-6DJ8-ECC88-Amperex-Bugle-Boy-Test-88-94-/291035700107
  
 Would this tube work for the T1 and how would you say it would compare to the Sylvania?  
  
 I appreciate your input CoilL, thanks!


----------



## CoiL

I don`t have bugle boy but for EDM you should go for JAN Sylvania 6922 I think, as much I have read about BB`s, they are good but mainly for rock/alternative/jazz, for EDM they might be too "intimate" sounding.


----------



## slovetro

Cool!  Thanks Coil!  
  
 Have a good day!


----------



## Tristan944

How do you connect computer or monitor speakers to the T1? It has the two RCA outs, so how do you connect them to two speakers? Can they be connected to speakers that have XLR, RCA, or standard bare wire connections? 
  
 If the studio monitor speaker has built in amp, can the T1 still be used to send audio to them?


----------



## Devmoo

abhinit90 said:


> In my opinion, don't. It might be decent with an HE-400 but it is absolutely horrible with my Fostex T50RP (low impedance ortho). You'll be better off looking somewhere else.
> 
> No idea on the 8x factor though.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Well I just purchased a set of HE-400's so i'll tell you guys if I think it's good, I sure damn hope so, apparently from the OP it sounds very good.


----------



## mhamel

tristan944 said:


> How do you connect computer or monitor speakers to the T1? It has the two RCA outs, so how do you connect them to two speakers? Can they be connected to speakers that have XLR, RCA, or standard bare wire connections?
> 
> If the studio monitor speaker has built in amp, can the T1 still be used to send audio to them?


 
  
  
 Yes, but the RCA outs on the T1 have no volume control.    So you either need some alternate analog volume control for the speakers, or would have to adjust the volume in software on the computer.
  
 Something like the SM Pro Audio Nano Patch passive monitor controller would work very well for this.  http://www.smproaudio.com/index.php/en/products/monitor-controllers/nano-patch-plus
  
   -Mike


----------



## wippo808

Hey all, I am a complete noob to tubes so sorry if this question seems basic/stupid.  Bought the T1's a few months ago and have been using the stock electro-harmonix 6922EH it came with.  Although working fine initially, within the past few weeks there has been a brief crackling sound every 10-20 seconds or so when sound/music is played.  While the sound is otherwise fine, it gets really irritating and I find myself listening straight from my PC more often than not.
  
 For reference, I'm pairing it with an HE-400 and Q701 and the gain is currently set to 0. The crackling is also detectable when hooked up to a set of Audioengine A2 speakers.
  
 I'm guessing it's probably some defect with the tube but I'm just hesitant to go out and buy another considering it's only a few months old so far.  The pins of the tube appear fine otherwise.  Any advice?


----------



## money4me247

wippo808 said:


> Hey all, I am a complete noob to tubes so sorry if this question seems basic/stupid.  Bought the T1's a few months ago and have been using the stock electro-harmonix 6922EH it came with.  Although working fine initially, within the past few weeks there has been a brief crackling sound every 10-20 seconds or so when sound/music is played.  While the sound is otherwise fine, it gets really irritating and I find myself listening straight from my PC more often than not.
> 
> For reference, I'm pairing it with an HE-400 and Q701 and the gain is currently set to 0. The crackling is also detectable when hooked up to a set of Audioengine A2 speakers.
> 
> I'm guessing it's probably some defect with the tube but I'm just hesitant to go out and buy another considering it's only a few months old so far.  The pins of the tube appear fine otherwise.  Any advice?


 
 First, check if the distortion is reproducible at the same location on your source file - that would mean a source file problem.
  
 If that is not the case, update your audio drivers. I had the same issues of 1sec distortion every few minutes & it turned out to be my audio drivers.
  
 If the issue only appears when you are plugged into your t1, then it is a problem w/ your t1. can be anything from tubes to it being a defective unit... I would get a exchange or refund if possible.


----------



## Devmoo

money4me247 said:


> First, check if the distortion is reproducible at the same location on your source file - that would mean a source file problem.
> 
> If that is not the case, update your audio drivers. I had the same issues of 1sec distortion every few minutes & it turned out to be my audio drivers.
> 
> If the issue only appears when you are plugged into your t1, then it is a problem w/ your t1. can be anything from tubes to it being a defective unit... I would get a exchange or refund if possible.


 
 That happened to my DAC like a few months ago, I don't know why but I had to return it and get a new one. It wasn't the tube. I hope it does not happen again.. and it's happened to a few others here now it seems. I'm a little worried, but the new one from hong kong is doing very well at the moment. 
  
 Just purchased an Amperax 7308 Platinum to go with my HE 400 and T1. Pretty excited! I heard people saying tubes die out over time, but if I spent 100$ on a tube... i'd hope it would last alot longer than just a year. Will update how it sounds!


----------



## mhamel

devmoo said:


> That happened to my DAC like a few months ago, I don't know why but I had to return it and get a new one. It wasn't the tube. I hope it does not happen again.. and it's happened to a few others here now it seems. I'm a little worried, but the new one from hong kong is doing very well at the moment.
> 
> Just purchased an Amperax 7308 Platinum to go with my HE 400 and T1. Pretty excited! I heard people saying tubes die out over time, but if I spent 100$ on a tube... i'd hope it would last alot longer than just a year. Will update how it sounds!


 
  
 Tubes definitely die over time, some sooner than others.   The 6DJ8 family was rated at 5,000 hrs life expectancy.  I believe the 6922 and 7308 are rated for 10,000 hours, but I could be mistaken on that.   Keep in mind, though,  that this is old technology, and there are no guarantees on the lifespan of a 30-40+ year old tube.   Definitely keep that in mind when buying more expensive tubes, it's part of the gamble of going with vintage items like this.
  
 That said, here's hoping to many many hours of enjoyment from that 7308!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
    -Mike


----------



## wippo808

money4me247 said:


> First, check if the distortion is reproducible at the same location on your source file - that would mean a source file problem.
> 
> 
> If that is not the case, update your audio drivers. I had the same issues of 1sec distortion every few minutes & it turned out to be my audio drivers.
> ...




Thanks for the suggestions guys. Unfortunately, the distortion seems random and despite updating the audio drivers, it still remained.  Think I'm going to try and exchange it but thing is, the place I got it from has says it is sold as-is.  Be kinda disappointing if that is the case, as I got it in early Nov. actually


----------



## money4me247

wippo808 said:


> Thanks for the suggestions guys. Unfortunately, the distortion seems random and despite updating the audio drivers, it still remained.  Think I'm going to try and exchange it but thing is, the place I got it from has a policy of being sold as-is.  Be kinda disappointing if that was the case, seeing as I got it in early Nov. actually.


  

 You should test to see if you can isolate the issue to your T1. try just playing stuff direct from your source & if the issue reappears, it can be a computer/player/jack issue.


----------



## wippo808

> Originally Posted by *money4me247* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> You should test to see if you can isolate the issue to your T1. try just playing stuff direct from your source & if the issue reappears, it can be a computer/player/jack issue.


 
  
 Yeah, did that already unfortunately.  It sounds fine when playing directly through the headphone jack or through my fiio E17.


----------



## CoiL

Imo you should try another tube. Seems like a tube problem. 6922EH `s are pretty known not to last long. Well, my T1 has been burning lots of tubes long time and haven`t had any issues with tubes dying yet. If you are located in US then just grab that JAN Sylvania 6922 tube for example I mentioned before. ~17$ isn`t much for this good tube.


----------



## teb1013

devmoo said:


> That happened to my DAC like a few months ago, I don't know why but I had to return it and get a new one. It wasn't the tube. I hope it does not happen again.. and it's happened to a few others here now it seems. I'm a little worried, but the new one from hong kong is doing very well at the moment.
> 
> Just purchased an Amperax 7308 Platinum to go with my HE 400 and T1. Pretty excited! I heard people saying tubes die out over time, but if I spent 100$ on a tube... i'd hope it would last alot longer than just a year. Will update how it sounds!




Good luck with the 7308, mine's great, even though I got "driver grade". For the past 6 months mine has performed perfectly. Keep us advised.


----------



## Tristan944

What's the consensus on a tube that will provide crisp detailed sound?


----------



## CoiL

Many detailed sounding tubes out there but what exactly you mean about crisp? Imo something that sounds "crisp" has littlebit lack of mids section, thus more highs-emphasized sound, not that it`s a bad thing but depending on music genre some things might "lack of body".


----------



## Nimzerz

Would this pair nicely as a DAC for the HE-500 and Emotiva rig?


----------



## joeq70

nimzerz said:


> Would this pair nicely as a DAC for the HE-500 and Emotiva rig?




That was my exact rig except I had the HE-5LE. I got rid of the HE-5LE and use the emotiva for speakers only now but the T1 was and is great for that. I just realized planars aren't for me.


----------



## Nimzerz

Would you say the aune t1 is better than the hrt ms2? Even in this specific rig too?


----------



## joeq70

nimzerz said:


> Would you say the aune t1 is better than the hrt ms2? Even in this specific rig too?



I had the headstreamer not the music streamer so I can't comment. The great thing about the T1 is you can easily change the sound by swapping tubes. You just have to grab some extra tubes and try them until you get the sound you want. A tube swap changes the sound significantly to the extent that its like a whole new piece of equipment with each tube.


----------



## money4me247

joeq70 said:


> I had the headstreamer not the music streamer so I can't comment. The great thing about the T1 is you can easily change the sound by swapping tubes. You just have to grab some extra tubes and try them until you get the sound you want. A tube swap changes the sound significantly to the extent that its like a whole new piece of equipment with each tube.


 
 I've heard its better to get a tube amp paired w/ a ss dac rather than the tube dac + ss amp of the T1, as you want to keep the source signal as clean as possible before amping it. however, i'm sure the t1 performs admirably.


----------



## Nimzerz

I'm considering getting the ms2 dac at $87 right now. I have to decide very soon and if I don't like it I could always put it back up on the classifieds. I'm wondering how it compares with the t1 dac though. Also if I can find a used t1 right now at around $100 I'd jump on it instead of the ms2 but I've had no luck. :/


----------



## mhamel

money4me247 said:


> I've heard its better to get a tube amp paired w/ a ss dac rather than the tube dac + ss amp of the T1, as you want to keep the source signal as clean as possible before amping it. however, i'm sure the t1 performs admirably.


 
  
 That is not necessarily true.
  
 Many people prefer to use a tube pre followed by a solid state amp, myself included.
  
 With the T1, it's a solid state DAC, followed by a tube buffer, then a solid state amp.   Many people also use tube analog output stages on DACs and CD players/transports.
  
  
    -Mike


----------



## spacequeen7

is anyone here pairing T1 with HD 650 ? ,will T1 drive HD 650 ?


----------



## slovetro

spacequeen7 said:


> is anyone here pairing T1 with HD 650 ? ,will T1 drive HD 650 ?




I am. It works very well imo.


----------



## teb1013

spacequeen7 said:


> is anyone here pairing T1 with HD 650 ? ,will T1 drive HD 650 ?




Check the "search this thread" function a number of people use the HD600 and HD650 and say they work well.


----------



## spacequeen7

slovetro said:


> I am. It works very well imo.


 
  
  thanks ,..MD have them for $350 I'm very tempted 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






teb1013 said:


> Check the *"search this thread"* function a number of people use the HD600 and HD650 and say they work well.


 
 pretty nifty tool,thank you


----------



## Tristan944

mhamel said:


> With the T1, it's a solid state DAC, followed by a tube buffer, then a solid state amp.   Many people also use tube analog output stages on DACs and CD players/transports.




I thought the tube was the DAC. If it has a solid state DAC, what model does it use? What is a tube buffer?


----------



## teb1013

tristan944 said:


> I thought the tube was the DAC. If it has a solid state DAC, what model does it use? What is a tube buffer?




In a tube buffer the signal from a solid state dac (as in the Aune T1) or amp (as in the Peachtree Nova) is passed through a tube to give the tube "flavor" to the music. There are some people who think that this is cheating because the tube is not necessary to operate the equipment, it just effects the quality of the sound. Frankly, I think the T1 with a good tube sounds great.


----------



## lysergix

hoping to recieve some advice on a couple things.. i just bought a Aune t1 and currently have He400's but am now in the market for an audio interface and quality monitors.
   
 Im wondering if i should replace the Aune and get a better dac i can use the monitors with aswell and also whether running the pc>audio interface>dac/amp is possible and worth it ?
  
 Ive also got a sbz an am hoping to run the virtual surround through them if possible too. Thanks for any advice.


----------



## mhamel

Lysergix,

I'll send a PM in a bit since this is the T1 thread and it would be a bit off topic. I've got some thoughts and experience with the setup you're thinking about using an interface and studio monitors. 

 -Mike


----------



## andreaburlizzi

which is better for rock music with aune t1, sennheiser hd 600 or hd 650?


----------



## CoiL

Imo you can`t ask question like that because much depends from tube being used. Unless you are referring only to "stock" 6922EH tube but this tube isn`t good for rock. Read reviews about HD600 vs. HD650 (or compare them yourself if you have opportunity) and decide what you like more and what is being told suits better for rock. But even after you have bought one out of those cans, you`ll probably have to find matching tube - about that part come back to this thread and ask recommendations.


----------



## andreaburlizzi

i will change the tube soon, but i don't have opportunity to try the headphones... i had sennheiser hd 598 and i liked them with aune t1, but i want an upgrade... i searched on this forum but they confused me, i listen pop song too and i don't know which headphone buy!


----------



## KG Jag

andreaburlizzi said:


> i will change the tube soon, but i don't have opportunity to try the headphones... i had sennheiser hd 598 and i liked them with aune t1, but i want an upgrade... i searched on this forum but they confused me, i listen pop song too and i don't know which headphone buy!


 

 A good place to start is with these two stops on the same excellent piece:
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/634201/battle-of-the-flagships-58-headphones-compared-update-audeze-lcd-2-revision-2-6-4-13#user_HD600
  
 and
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/634201/battle-of-the-flagships-58-headphones-compared-update-audeze-lcd-2-revision-2-6-4-13#user_HD650


----------



## arcorob

Hello...Just joined !! Not sure why I haven't seen this awesome site before..anyway, specific question on the AUNE T1. I ordered the improved version (6922 E88CC) ..and I plan to use it with USB IN and the RCA out, not the headphones...it will feed in to the AUX on my main rig.
  
 Fro the life of me, I can't find anything that says that's okay (though it should be..can;t see why not...lol)
  
 Anyone using it that way ?
  
 My main use will be from :
  
 Surface Tablet USB out
 USB IN to Aune T1
 RCA out to Marantz SR4023 Pre
 Marantz feeds my Velleman K4040 Power amp
  
 I primarily listen to vinyl but lately I have been streaming music from the Surface (via the 3.5mm and on board wolfson dac) to the main system. I saw such good things on the T1 and hey...every things sound better with a little tube magic...LOL
  
 Anyway, thanks...!!
  
 Rob


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> Hello...Just joined !! Not sure why I haven't seen this awesome site before..anyway, specific question on the AUNE T1. I ordered the improved version (6922 E88CC) ..and I plan to use it with USB IN and the RCA out, not the headphones...it will feed in to the AUX on my main rig.
> 
> Fro the life of me, I can't find anything that says that's okay (though it should be..can;t see why not...lol)
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Hey Rob... as it's said around here, Welcome to Head-Fi and sorry about your wallet!  
  
 The T1 can indeed be used in that way, it works well as a DAC using the RCA outs.
  
 Unfortunately, the stock tube isn't all that great....  some tube rolling will definitely change the sound of the T1 for the better.
  
    -Mike


----------



## arcorob

Hi Mike...yup..I answered the PM BTW and yes, tube rolling is the way to go...I LOVE trying different tubes until I find the perfect match for my system...when I say the T1 ..I said cool...!
  
 Investigated the critical part (the DAC) and it passed muster. But then add a TUBE buffer...SOLD...LOL..and the price was right to try. I almost spent $400 on a DAC (I don't really need) and glad I didn't..I don't think the T1 gets enough recognition because the recognition I HAVE seen is all very positive.
  
 Thanks again and thanks for the personal welcome PM !!!


----------



## Brendo09

Arcorob, I use my T1 exactly the same way you have mentioned. 
  
 USB in -> Tube DAC -> RCA out -> Amp -> Speakers. 
  
 I only listen at very low levels and nearfield, but it still makes you sit up and listen.


----------



## arcorob

Thank you ! I finally saw the manual and understand that's how it will work for me...and while on another post .. a lightbulb went off.
  
 I gather people here have tried using 12AU7's on the T1? It makes sense because the 6922 circuit would be built for a 6v heater...but the 12AU7 can handle 6v or 12v so...it should work ...and I have a ton of 12AU7's to try...sorry ...just thinking out loud.
  
 Would someone please correct me if my thinking is askew on this ? Thanks


----------



## CoiL

12AU7 has different pin-out and is not compatible with Aune T1! Here is list of tubes suitable for Aune T1:

 Quote:


> *6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, **6N27P,** 6N11, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
> *E188CC, **ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV2493, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, *
> *CV5358, M3624, CV4108, CV5331, CV5464, CV5472, CV8065, CV9838, CV10320, CV10403*
> *6FW8, PCC85 *(may sound distorted).
> ...


----------



## arcorob

Oh okay...very good to know....I thought I had a way to try the 7 or 8 12AU7's I have...oh well...time to start trying a new tube line...LOL


----------



## slovetro

I just purchased a 6922 jan sylvania tube and am quite disappointed. I cannot notice any improvement at all, actually, the new tube sounds worse than the original 6922EH. How real is time burn in/will this get better with time? I see nothing visually wrong with the tube, but I am new to this. 

Should the Jan be an obvious improvement?


----------



## spacequeen7

slovetro said:


> I just purchased a 6922 jan sylvania tube and am quite disappointed. I cannot notice any improvement at all, actually, the new tube sounds worse than the original 6922EH. How real is time burn in/will this get better with time? I see nothing visually wrong with the tube, but I am new to this.
> 
> Should the Jan be an obvious improvement?


 
  
 this is what I refer to when looking for my tubes ,it's pretty accurate and well written description of most of the tubes you can use on T1 and worth buying 
http://blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=small_world&logNo=20153195985
  
 I recently received * E88CC/CCa Valvo Red Logo  Röhre Valvola NOS *_1965_
 and I'm positive I found what I was looking for ,it cost me arm and leg but oh boy this thing sounds sick ,pretty much all this 


> TELEFUNKEN, SIEMENS, VALVO, LORENZ, and other German made NOS: These tubes are usually characterized by an impressive open "air" at the top end. The soundstage is large, even in mono applications these tubes have a great 3-D image. The midrange is ruler flat, and the bass is tight and accurate. These tubes have a fine sense of dynamics, and most are impressively quiet. These arenot "warm" tubes, and to some ears their lack of midrange warmth may be heard as bright. I tend to think of them as accurate, and their clean, focused sonic image is astonishing. My personal favorites. The top types are as would be expected: the 7308/E188CC, the Cca, and the 6922/E88CC. The Cca is a very special 6922 made for the German government for telecommunications. They are excellent tubes, as good as any 7308.  *[출처]* 6DJ8/ECC88, 6922/E88CC, CV2493, CV2492, E188CC, E288CC, CCA, 6H23, 7DJ8/PCC88|*작성자* 작세


----------



## CoiL

slovetro said:


> I just purchased a 6922 jan sylvania tube and am quite disappointed. I cannot notice any improvement at all, actually, the new tube sounds worse than the original 6922EH. How real is time burn in/will this get better with time? I see nothing visually wrong with the tube, but I am new to this.
> 
> Should the Jan be an obvious improvement?


 
  
 O_o That`s really weird that you can`t notice any improvement and find it even worse! ;S Green label JAN Sylvania 6922 should definitely be improvement over 6922EH ! First difference you should notice is better & more "foward" mids section + tighter bass. Soundstage is more or less same. Is this your first NOS tube? If you haven`t done analytical comparing before then maybe your ears aren`t used to finding differences. Also, what headphones are you using? 
 Btw, there are different label Sylvania`s, are you sure you got *Green label JAN* Sylvania 6922? Maybe yours is later production (worse sounding?) or it has reached to it`s "end of life"? 
  
 My tube is labeled like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6922-Sylvania-Electronic-Tubes-/251024184077?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7235130d 
  Except my tube has different number: 322 and next to it is EAD and there is also vertical number 7002 near the right side of labeling.


----------



## andreaburlizzi

with amperex orange globe the sound of sennheiser hd 650 is good? i see that is a good combination for rock music, but i don't know if aune t1 is enough... hd 600 can be driven better?


----------



## spacequeen7

andreaburlizzi said:


> with amperex orange globe the sound of sennheiser hd 650 is good? i see that is a good combination for rock music, but i don't know if aune t1 is enough... hd 600 can be driven better?


 
 HD 600 and 650 weaknesses ;


> *WEAKNESSES* *LACKS DETAIL:* The HD600 has a very smooth sound that can sometimes feel slow and slightly blurred. The HD600 is not the last word in terms of detail retrieval.
> 
> *TOO SMOOTH:* The HD650 can sometimes sound suffocated in its own warmth. It can sometimes sound as though it is attempting to lull you to sleep.
> 
> *TREBLE:....*


 
 so I would look for a tube that can help you in that department..just my 2c


----------



## andreaburlizzi

and with a different tube hd 600 can be driven better than hd 650?


----------



## spacequeen7

if you  mean louder/more aggressive look for 6N23P*-EV (EB) *Reflector 1986 and older (double support type )
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200988005021?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
or Rocket but your sound stage will suffer a bit ,I really like what this tube have to offer ,pretty good bang for your buck
  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310792543321?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## arcorob

I thought the same things .Two came to mind
  
 1) Needs burn in
 2) Forgery ?
 3) Bad tube ?
  
 Okay that's three...but those are pretty steady tubes.


----------



## andreaburlizzi

Thanks for the tube, but i will take it in a second time... Now i'm trying to understand which headphone il better for aune t1,and my doubt was about sennheiser hd 600 or hd 650... I have read that the second il good for rock, but i don't know il aune t1 can drive them, in case i will buy hd600.


----------



## arcorob

well folks, my T1 is in the house, up and running and burning in as we speak.
  
 I have to say I am impressed. Not a huge OVERWHELMING bang but I never expected that considering my source is primarily XBOX Music downloads. what I did notice
  
 wider, more holographic soundstage
 The vocalist is nicely forward and I can literally hear them close to the mic (I cant describe it but it is better)
  
 It can be a bit on the bright side but I think that can be attributed to the tube, burn-in, etc. Not overly but a tad. We WILL remedy that..LOL
  
 So in my opinion, I think I gained 5 to 10%. Doesn't sound like a lot? It is huge. In the audiophile world, you can spend hundreds to thousands to get a 2% increase. For $159 to get even a 5% better in an already tuned system is awesome. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 I used the supplied USB (seemed decent but may upgrade) and connected to my system using XLO HT Pro cables (no I did not spend $200 on them, they were a GIFT !!!)
  
 Thank you all...now on to some basic tube rolling (damn..why couldn't they make it work with 12AU7's ..lol)


----------



## slovetro

coil said:


> O_o That`s really weird that you can`t notice any improvement and find it even worse! ;S Green label JAN Sylvania 6922 should definitely be improvement over 6922EH ! First difference you should notice is better & more "foward" mids section + tighter bass. Soundstage is more or less same. Is this your first NOS tube? If you haven`t done analytical comparing before then maybe your ears aren`t used to finding differences. Also, what headphones are you using?
> Btw, there are different label Sylvania`s, are you sure you got *Green label JAN* Sylvania 6922? Maybe yours is later production (worse sounding?) or it has reached to it`s "end of life"?
> 
> My tube is labeled like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6922-Sylvania-Electronic-Tubes-/251024184077?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7235130d
> Except my tube has different number: 322 and next to it is EAD and there is also vertical number 7002 near the right side of labeling.


 

I'm using hd650s and this is my first time comparing tubes. I definitely am not used to comparing differences, but thought I would at least notice a few differences and definitely thought I would prefer the new tube, but I find myself wanting to put the old tube back in. I will use it for a week and see if the sound improves.


----------



## slovetro

Also, the tube is exactly the one you posted Coil.


----------



## Tristan944

Arcorob, I have a bunch of questions for you:
  
 1. What is that big amp?
 2. What program are you using on that tablet?
 3. What headphones?
 4. Did you get the Aune T1 on the $109?


----------



## arcorob

tristan944 said:


> Arcorob, I have a bunch of questions for you:
> 
> 1. What is that big amp?
> 2. What program are you using on that tablet?
> ...


 

 The big amp is a Velleman K4040 Tube power amp - 1 12AU7 phase spliter tube , 2 12AX7 input tubes, 8 6L6GC power tubes - 90wpc - All NOS early 60 tubes !
 I am running Windows 8.1 with XBOX music pass for streaming
 Senns HD280 Pro
 No, wish I could have paid $109...paid $159 shipped via Amazon
  
 Other notes - I am using a Marantz SR4023 as the pre and I have and have had multiple turntables (I am a vinyl nut) ..I have even built my own record cleaning machine
 I use Polk Monitor 70 II's with a Polk sub . My main table is a ClearAudio Concept with Concept MC cart and a Phonomena II phono stage
  
 I am a tube nut ! So the T1 really spoke to me...If you like tubes, this picture is my garage amp. I built a ss preamp from a kit ($22) built a box, attached it to an early 60's Motorola console amp, added some VU meters and have a little system....It sounds sweet !


----------



## CoiL

Quote:


slovetro said:


> Also, the tube is exactly the one you posted Coil.


 
  For what it counts, we have slighty different labeled tubes referring to printed numbers (mine has 322 EAD + 7002).
 Don`t remember exactly from what year my tube is but maybe thats where difference comes? Different year & batch?
  
 Quote:


slovetro said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > O_o That`s really weird that you can`t notice any improvement and find it even worse! ;S Green label JAN Sylvania 6922 should definitely be improvement over 6922EH ! First difference you should notice is better & more "foward" mids section + tighter bass. Soundstage is more or less same. Is this your first NOS tube? If you haven`t done analytical comparing before then maybe your ears aren`t used to finding differences. Also, what headphones are you using?
> ...


 
  
 Well, then I don`t know what to say. With my setup the difference is definitely noticeable from the first moment I plug in my JAN - certainly better than 6922EH in every aspect imho. Well, maybe only thing that is better on 6922EH with only atmospheric electronic music is the bass which has more flow & sustain but in other genres JAN is certain winner.
 Maybe HD-650 is too warm headphone for this tube?


> *HD600 & HD650 WEAKNESSES* *LACKS DETAIL:* The HD600 has a very smooth sound that can sometimes feel slow and slightly blurred. The HD600 is not the last word in terms of detail retrieval.
> 
> *TOO SMOOTH:* The HD650 can sometimes sound suffocated in its own warmth. It can sometimes sound as though it is attempting to lull you to sleep.
> 
> *TREBLE:....*


 
  
 6922EH sounds more brighter and gives "more air & life" and thus feels better for you? Anyway, sorry that my recommendation didn`t work out for you ;(


----------



## MrEleventy

I would have to disagree with the "lacks detail" at least with the hd600s. They're actually very good with detail retrieval, it's just that there's no sparkle in the high end to draw your attention to them so you don't notice it unless you're looking for them. When I had them, hd600, I found they paired well with the t1 with a proper tube. without using an additional amp


----------



## spacequeen7

> .If you like tubes, *this picture is my garage amp*. I built a ss preamp from a kit ($22) built a box, attached it to an early 60's Motorola console amp, added some VU meters and have a little system....It sounds sweet !


 
 I lol at this ,I like that


----------



## slovetro

coil said:


> Well, then I don`t know what to say. With my setup the difference is definitely noticeable from the first moment I plug in my JAN - certainly better than 6922EH in every aspect imho. Well, maybe only thing that is better on 6922EH with only atmospheric electronic music is the bass which has more flow & sustain but in other genres JAN is certain winner.
> Maybe HD-650 is too warm headphone for this tube?
> 
> 6922EH sounds more brighter and gives "more air & life" and thus feels better for you? Anyway, sorry that my recommendation didn`t work out for you ;(




It's fine. I'll give it a week. And there seem to be a lot of extra factors going into what makes a certain tube sound a certain way. I'll keep looking out for a tube that is good with electronic music. Thanks for the help anyway. Everyone in head fi is very nice.


----------



## mhamel

slovetro said:


> It's fine. I'll give it a week. And there seem to be a lot of extra factors going into what makes a certain tube sound a certain way. I'll keep looking out for a tube that is good with electronic music. Thanks for the help anyway. Everyone in head fi is very nice.


 
  
  
 Slovetro,
  
 You might like the mid 70s 6N23P Voskhod.   It has very good extension at both the lows and highs, with a very dynamic sound.   Mids are full without being thick, and it's overall a very clean sounding tube.   Not as "tube-y" as some of the Amperex or Mullards.    I think it would work well with electronic music.
  
 I've owned HD650s, I didn't like them mainly based on comfort, but based on their sound signature, too warm of a tube would make them sound very dark.   The HD650s tend to want a pretty resolving, powerful amp to sound their best and they tend to scale in sound quality based on the source chain and amplifier used.   Listened-to through the tube amp I had at the time (Audiovalve/Corda Eartube) they were very detailed sounding headphones.
  
 I have not owned the HD600s, but many accounts find them more neutral than the 650s.
  
 For a good comparison, check out http://www.head-fi.org/t/634201/battle-of-the-flagships-58-headphones-compared-update-audeze-lcd-2-revision-2-6-4-13
  
 Keep in mind that he's using high end / high quality amplification and source in that thread, so his comments about the HD650 not being picky about amplification need to take that into account.
  
 Thanks,
   -Mike


----------



## CoiL

slovetro, just to be sure, have you set up your Aune T1 properly? using USB input? how is your gain switch set? WASAPI, ASIO or KSP?  What OS? Using at least 320kbps mp3`s to compare?


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> well folks, my T1 is in the house, up and running and burning in as we speak.
> 
> Thank you all...now on to some basic tube rolling (damn..why couldn't they make it work with 12AU7's ..lol)


 
  
 Rob,
  
 Check out eBay seller ayumitubes - they make some tube socket adapters, and can probably make up a set of 6DJ8 Socket -> 12AU7 tube adapters if they don't already have them.   I haven't used them before myself, but I've seen their adapters.   No guarantees that they would play well in the Aune, the 12AU7 gain is quite a bit lower than the 6DJ8 family, but could be fun to try them out.
  
    -Mike


----------



## arcorob

mhamel said:


> Rob,
> 
> Check out eBay seller ayumitubes - they make some tube socket adapters, and can probably make up a set of 6DJ8 Socket -> 12AU7 tube adapters if they don't already have them.   I haven't used them before myself, but I've seen their adapters.   No guarantees that they would play well in the Aune, the 12AU7 gain is quite a bit lower than the 6DJ8 family, but could be fun to try them out.
> 
> -Mike


 

 Thanks Mike...Its an option..I might just stick with the 6DJ8 family...I guess I shudder a bit because having been through the 12AX7/12AU7 gamut, I am familiar with how it tweeks in my system. The 6DJ8 may be a new (and costly) learning curve...I think I might want to try something that gives me the same IMAGE as the stock tube but rounds the edge (just a bit) off the brightness.
  
 It will be fun...


----------



## CoiL

I would recommend JAN Sylvania 6922 again but as I`ve seen reply about this tube, can`t recommend it anymore (well, if you can find exactly same labeled as I have then go for it!). But maybe it`s just a mismatch only with HD650 or slovetro`s ears aren`t so trained as mine, who knows. Anyway this JAN is my 2nd best tube for overall electronic music after Miniwatt-Dario ECC189. Actually if that electronic music includes vocals & some acoustic instruments then I find JAN even better sometimes, probably because littlebit more emphasis on mids section. But nothing out of my tubes can beat bass kick & tightness like Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 has.
 Another option would be Tungsram PCC88 (the one with little cuts on plate under getter is slightly better than with flat plate). It might be just the right tube for you, it tames highs only very little + bass is littlebit more tight, soundstage feels basically same as 6922EH to me - large & airy. Those are cheap and easy to find options. 
  
 Btw, there`s 2x2 Miniwatt-Dario (Mazda) ECC189/6ES8 available (Made in Chartres France not Heerlen as stated): http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECC189-6ES8-MINIWATT-DARIO-OR-MAZDA-MATCHED-PAIR-/141141419907?pt=FR_JG_Collections_Radios&hash=item20dcaf2783
  
 Also, one Amperex ECC189/6ES8: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6ES8-ECC189-NOS-NIB-Amperex-VACUUM-TUBE-GUARANTEED-/131074212512?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item1e84a1c2a0


----------



## magusunltd

I'm running my HD650 with Aune T1 + Amperex 6922 PQ (orange label)
  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-PQ-6922-6DJ8-ECC88-VACUUM-TUBE-1969-MATCH-PAIR-GOLD-PIN-SWEET-TONE-060-/321272180652?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4acd506fac
  
 The Aune T1 is sufficiently powerful enough to handle the HD650 on highest gain. Although it barely reaches my "max" loudness. I mainly use this combo for most of my music (over Amperex Bugle Boy or Orange Globes). I also have a Genalex Gold Lion tube which is a bit too warm for the HD650... but pairs nicely with my HE-400 for it's bass extension.


----------



## slovetro

coil said:


> slovetro, just to be sure, have you set up your Aune T1 properly? using USB input? how is your gain switch set? WASAPI, ASIO or KSP?  What OS? Using at least 320kbps mp3`s to compare?


 
 I've made sure that most everything is set up well.  I am using USB input of course.  Gain switches are at lowest levels, I'm not sure about WASAPI, ASIO, or KSP though?  Windows 7, and mostly FLAC and some 320s through Foobar.


----------



## spacequeen7

magusunltd said:


> I'm running my HD650 with Aune T1 + Amperex 6922 PQ (orange label)
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-PQ-6922-6DJ8-ECC88-VACUUM-TUBE-1969-MATCH-PAIR-GOLD-PIN-SWEET-TONE-060-/321272180652?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4acd506fac
> 
> The Aune T1 is sufficiently powerful enough to handle the HD650 on highest gain. Although it barely reaches my "*max" loudness*. I mainly use this combo for most of my music (over Amperex Bugle Boy or Orange Globes). I also have a Genalex Gold Lion tube which is a bit too warm for the HD650... but pairs nicely with my HE-400 for it's bass extension.


 
 I think Amperex is considered warm and quiet tube,the Russian Rocket or Reflector is a different beast


----------



## magusunltd

The Amperex tube is a bit quieter than the Genalex or the stock EH 6922 (which pairs decently with the HD650--but lacks some detail and sound stage). I'm looking to acquire some Voskhod tubes currently.


----------



## spacequeen7

I think most you can find on ebay are driver grade (some if at all were tested ) and you would have to wait weeks since most will come from Europe  ,found two places that sells the "rocket"http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/6H23-%7B47%7D-6922-Rocket-Logo.html and "reflector " 
http://www.cryoset.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_24&products_id=243&osCsid=e4m0cjj2bnkg77k74htqu0s6g7
 I have the Voskhod-"rocket" but I didn't like it to much ..since  DT880 is already on the bright side ,all the soft tubes like Amperex,Genalex pairs pretty nice with this headphones but the Valvo took the cake -clean ,good detail and very dimensional/3D (this tube is also great for gaming )
 P.S. may have to wait for a good Voskhod


----------



## arcorob

Hmm...so I wonder what tube is going to be RIGHT for me. The stock tube sounds nice, I like the forward mids and the holographic nature of the vocalist. I want a tube that exhibits that but just a tad less bright. Detailed but I think over time it could be fatiguing.
  
 I have read about some of the other tubes but I don't want to lose those mids, nor the detail...technically, these tubes were not audiophile tubes ..they were TV and equipment tubes. I am really curious how they DID become audiophile tubes (what made them popular) ...and while history is good, doesn't help me select...I'll have to read more of the tube reviews..
  
 I do want to put a thank you out to all the folks who have helped and the overall point to the T1. I am VERY please...had Christmas company tonight and they were impressed with the rig playing Christmas music through the Aune...


----------



## ron82nd

Anyone try this amp with the fostex th600's? would this amp work well enough till i get the funds for the wa7 together?


----------



## spacequeen7

@ arcorob
 Quote:


> MULLARD, GENALEX, BRIMAR, and other British made NOS: Like a warm British jacket of the finest tweed, these glorious tubes have an attractive sweet warmth in their midrange and lower regions.The top end is silky and pleasant, without being rolled-off. The best of these tubes retain a fine sense of "air" at the top, and the upper midrange is smooth and liquid. These tubes reproduce the human voice, especially female voices, with haunting realism. The 1970s Mullard made have an attractive sparkle at the top with the rich bass, and these tubes are usually priced less than the older types.  *[출처]* 6DJ8/ECC88, 6922/E88CC, CV2493, CV2492, E188CC, E288CC, CCA, 6H23, 7DJ8/PCC88|*작성자* 작세


 
 I really like Genalex ,couldn't tell about the other two since I don't have them but it sounds like you might like one of this three


----------



## arcorob

Spacequeen...LOL...I could almost quote Brent Jesse's site by heart..he supplied my matched 6L6GC's...8 of them...YIKES
  
 I do like Mullards, they are warm and velvety, they do have forward mid's...hmm..and they do take a bit of the "bright" off the top end...BY GEORGE SPACEQUEEN !! I think we have a winner !
  
 Thanks !!!


----------



## CoiL

slovetro said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > slovetro, just to be sure, have you set up your Aune T1 properly? using USB input? how is your gain switch set? WASAPI, ASIO or KSP?  What OS? Using at least 320kbps mp3`s to compare?
> ...


 
 HD650 should be 300Ohm if I`m correct, so you should use higher gain position +10dB (little DIP switches at bottom of Aune T1) or maybe even highest +16dB gain as user magusunltd said he uses. Last page on manual: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/3015#post_9898946 
  
 About Foobar + Windows 7... you must set up your foobar properly! Set it to WASAPI. If you haven`t done it yet then there might be quite noticeable change in sound quality.
  
 Set those things properly and then you should hear much better sounds 

  


spacequeen7 said:


> magusunltd said:
> 
> 
> > I'm running my HD650 with Aune T1 + Amperex 6922 PQ (orange label)
> ...


 

 Wouldn`t say so... imho 6N23P reflector is "warmer" than my Amperex 6DJ8 PQ shield logo. Well actually sort of "muffled" sounding and I don`t really enjoy it, it`s like thin blanket in front of everything (btw, it`s bought from Mike @ RG and has very good measurements). Rocket logo should be great and much brighter & airy sounding as I`ve read impressions used with Aune T1.
 About quiet part ...depends on tube measurements and condition because all my Amperex tubes are "loud" enough. I have some few tubes that are noticeably quieter and require more volume but still sound great.
  


arcorob said:


> The stock tube sounds nice, I like the forward mids and the holographic nature of the vocalist.
> 
> I have read about some of the other tubes but I don't want to lose those mids, nor the detail...technically, these tubes were not audiophile tubes


 
 You must be hearing things differently or you haven`t heard good tube with good mids like Amperex OG ECC88/6DJ8, Siemens PCC88/7DJ8, Mullard ECC88 etc. Your`e right about "holographic" vocals but it`s not right to use this word until you have heard Amperex 6GM8/ECC86 or Amperex 7308 ...then you will know what holographic sound means 
 Imo stock 6922EH tube lacks mids compared with lot of my other tubes.


----------



## Paspie

Just discovered a weird coincidence: my Aune T1 tends to stutter whenever I have an SD card inserted into either the built-in card reader, or an external USB device. I guess it's something to do with the Linux kernel drivers playing up, or maybe I've just got too many devices hooked up. Anyway it works completely fine whenever there's no card inserted.


----------



## isendono

I've the sennheiser hd580 which is 300ohm as well , and I'm using +10 gains. I only need to turn knob between 8 and 9 oclock and its sufficiently loud enough.


----------



## arcorob

> You must be hearing things differently or you haven`t heard good tube with good mids like Amperex OG ECC88/6DJ8, Siemens PCC88/7DJ8, Mullard ECC88 etc. Your`e right about "holographic" vocals but it`s not right to use this word until you have heard Amperex 6GM8/ECC86 or Amperex 7308 ...then you will know what holographic sound means
> Imo stock 6922EH tube lacks mids compared with lot of my other tubes.


 
 Coil...lol...in a sense I am hearing things differently...but not for the reason you say ..but thanks for the guide. Until this week, my imaging has been based primarily on my vinyl / analog sound driven by a whole different family of tubes (12A%%) verses the 6922/6DJ8's. The tube sound associated is completely different so I have no frame of reference other than the stock tube - so  - it sounds pretty good...as would all things if you did not hear anything else, Certainly better than the non-dac enhanced digital music.
  
 So now, as I have pointed out prior, I have a whole new learning curve for tubes that will compliment my system (which you have given some direction on..thank you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )
  
 I am probably going to start with the Mullard (again ease into something familiar) but in comparison, this line of tubes seem pricier in general than the 12A%% family.
  
 Thanks again and Merry Christmas !!!


----------



## CoiL

If you are starting with Mullard then start with ECC88 Holland Heerlen made with newer type shield logo ( I have GAG delta5D2, A frame support leg ). It is very good in mids section, almost same as my Amperex 6DJ8 OG GAC (single support leg, dimpled disc, Heerlen) or Ultron SQ PCC189 (Bharat India). Only thing that bothers me littlebit with this tube is its highs section which sounds sparkly and good but it`s somehow "dull & flat" sounding, causes some fatigue with longer listening. Nevertheless it`s one of my top ~5 tubes. And I have talked a lot about alternatives to this tube - 
 Philips PCC189 (Heerlen, A-frame), it`s cheaper and widely available and very similiar sounding (If you get really unused NOS then it needs some burning before gets "same" as Mullard).


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> If you are starting with Mullard then start with ECC88 Holland Heerlen made with newer type shield logo ( I have GAG delta5D2, A frame support leg ). It is very good in mids section, almost same as my Amperex 6DJ8 OG GAC (single support leg, dimpled disc, Heerlen) or Ultron SQ PCC189 (Bharat India). Only thing that bothers me littlebit with this tube is its highs section which sounds sparkly and good but it`s somehow "dull & flat" sounding, causes some fatigue with longer listening. Nevertheless it`s one of my top ~5 tubes. And I have talked a lot about alternatives to this tube -
> Philips PCC189 (Heerlen, A-frame), it`s cheaper and widely available and very similiar sounding (If you get really unused NOS then it needs some burning before gets "same" as Mullard).


 

 Thank you ...Now I am leaning toward the Amperex 7308 or an old 60's Amperex Bugle boy...you have activated my OCD (in a positive sense) which means I will be spending most of today researching...LOL...Great, thanks for the Christmas presenty...LO
  
 All kidding aside, thank you and Merry Christmas


----------



## CoiL

Then Amperex 7308 (driver grade) is probably way to go  I would be happy to try it myself but already have very many awesome tubes for different genres and don`t like idea spending ~70$ on single tube. Instead I got lucky and managed to get Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86 with ridiculous price. It is my most holographic-sounding tube ;P


----------



## mhamel

coil said:


> If you are starting with Mullard then start with ECC88 Holland Heerlen made with newer type shield logo ( I have GAG delta5D2, A frame support leg ). It is very good in mids section, almost same as my Amperex 6DJ8 OG GAC (single support leg, dimpled disc, Heerlen) or Ultron SQ PCC189 (Bharat India). Only thing that bothers me littlebit with this tube is its highs section which sounds sparkly and good but it`s somehow "dull & flat" sounding, causes some fatigue with longer listening. Nevertheless it`s one of my top ~5 tubes. And I have talked a lot about alternatives to this tube -
> Philips PCC189 (Heerlen, A-frame), it`s cheaper and widely available and very similiar sounding (If you get really unused NOS then it needs some burning before gets "same" as Mullard).


 
  
  
 Coil,
  
 The "Mullard" sound that Brent Jesse describes (and was quoted comes from the UK plants, most popularly Blackburn and Mitcham.   The Mullard tube you're describing was built in the Philips Herleen plant in Holland, essentially it's a Philips (Amperex) tube.  From the GAG code, it looks like 1975.   It does not sound at all like the 60s and early 70s Mullard UK manufactured tubes.   As I've said before, the logo/label on the tube means nothing.   The etch code tells the story of who made it, where and when.   Companies frequently used other manufacturers tubes and re-labeled them, even more so later on as factories started to close down and "new" tube production dropped off.
  
  
 Rob,
  
 If you're looking for that sound in the Aune, look for a 1960s Blackburn or Mitcham manufactured 6DJ8/ECC88, 6922/E88CC, 6ES8/ECC189, 9ES8/PCC189.   Many of the UK and Holland tubes even carry GE or RCA labels but are Mullard or Philips manufactured.  The older Amperex tubes also have a rich, warm sound.  The earlier 1960s Herleen manufactured tubes have a more "tube-y" sound than the later dimpled disc getter (1969 GAC single post, and later A-Frames).   Herleen manufactured PCC85s from early-mid 70s also have a similar sound signature to their 6DJ8-family counterparts and work well in the T1.
  
 -Mike


----------



## CoiL

mhamel said:


> Coil,
> 
> The "Mullard" sound that Brent Jesse describes (and was quoted comes from the UK plants, most popularly Blackburn and Mitcham.   The Mullard tube you're describing was built in the Philips Herleen plant in Holland, essentially it's a Philips (Amperex) tube.  From the GAG code, it looks like 1975.   It does not sound at all like the 60s and early 70s Mullard UK manufactured tubes.   As I've said before, the logo/label on the tube means nothing.   The etch code tells the story of who made it, where and when.   Companies frequently used other manufacturers tubes and re-labeled them, even more so later on as factories started to close down and "new" tube production dropped off.


 
 I know all that. I`m not newbie in this  I have some Blackburn made tubes also, labeled as Mullard, Valvo, Mazda and even one Siemens was Blackburn made if I remember correctly (don`t bother to bring them all out to check)  Also be warned that Blackburn made doesn`t always mean "warm" sounding tube, for example Mazda PCC189 I have is roughly said like 6922EH sounding with large soundstage and clarity with slightly "recessed" mids compared with old Mullard shield logo PCC189 which has warm intimate tubey sound (and I have 2 different versions of this which sound different) especially good for old rock & jazz  or Valvo PCC88 - they all are Blackburn made.
  
  
 Btw, acrorob, for which music genre you are mainly listening? Again I have to point out that 1 great tube doesn`t mean it`s good for every genre. For example my Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86 is "best" & most holographic sounding tube I have but it surely isn`t best for every genre. Most of the time I still find myself listening with Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88 GAC, Ultron SQ PCC189 & Siemens PCC189 with progressive rock/metal/djent/jazz. For electronic atmospheric music I mainly use Miniwatt-Dario ECC189, JAN Sylvania 6922 & 6922EH. If I would think of tube more-or-less good for all genres, I would probably choose Siemens PCC189.
  
  
 Edit, again! ;D
  
 Found one intresting offer, Ei PCC189 (Philips, probably Heerlen made) tubes for 8$, anyone willing to try? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCC189-audio-double-triode-tube-NOS-FREE-SHIPPING-/301003673822?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item46153790de
  
 and again...
  
 One ITT Lorenz PCC189 (Heerlen) with crazy price: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ITT-Lorenz-PCC189-/121237246587?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item1c3a4d927b
 I Have 2x Lorenz SEL labeled Heerlen PCC189`s and they are very similiar sounding to Philips PCC189 & Mullard ECC88.
  
 and edit again...
  
 Mullard PCC189 Blackburn with good price (can`t make out from the pic if they are with grey or metal vertical center plate, I think grey plate was better if I remember correctly): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matched-pair-Mullard-PCC189-7ES8-tubes-shield-logo-NIB-excellent-condition-/390726042813?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5af91644bd


----------



## Devmoo

Hmm so I need to put my Aune T1 on full volume @ 10db in order for to sound pretty good on my Hi fi man he400 that I just got. Tube didn't arrive yet, burning these headphones in a bit more .


----------



## CoiL

No, it doesn`t have to be @ full volume. Turn it to 0 at first and try with different gain settings which sounds best. You maybe should even use +16dB gain for planars but certainly don`t turn volume to max.
  
 Btw, took out my tubes and checked.... yes, the Siemens PCC189 I have is coded IP1 B7C3 so it should be Blackburn made (someone correct me if I`m wrong) but it is labeled as Siemens and it`s even written made in germany at the other side of tube. About sound, it`s nothing like Mullard Blackburn or Mitcham "house sound", it`s very transparent, middle-sized soundstage, not with too warm neither with too bright sounding, kind of sweetspot. 
  
 I have also 2x Brimar PCC189 which are coded IP1 B2J5 & IP1 B2J4. They are also very good sounding for older rock but again, not as warm & intimate as Mullard PCC189, more like between latter and that Blackburn made Siemens PCC189. Siemens is certainly best out of them in every aspect.
  
 And then I have 2x Siemens PCC189 that are coded IP1 ‡​7L and they are different sounding from that Blackburn made Siemens PCC189, roughly said they are like between latter and Mazda PCC189 (B9I5 , Blackburn). 
  
 So, all that tube sound thingy isn`t as black & white as it seems ;D Crazy and addictive stuff!


----------



## arcorob

Okay...my head is spinning...LOL
  
 For vinyl its a different set.
  
 So in keeping with this use, we are talking a mix of newer music - Katy Perry, Maroon 5, 3 doors down, Carrie Underwood..oh and throw in some Travis Tritt, as well as some old school rock (but the latter is usually vinyl, not through the DAC)
  
 I liked the thought of the Amperex 7308 but now I am going to also look at the Amperex 6GM8. Hmm...have to think ..must process data...loop..LOL
  
 As to Brent Jesse, he borrows some of his own descriptions (his Mullard is the same as what he says about the 12AX7 and 12AU7). I like Blackburn plant and not the India or Canada versions.
  
 I also want to get a tube that tests VERY closely matched both sides since the T1 uses both sides - one side per channel - I am thinking balance
  
 I will keep searching and thank you ALL for the input !!! Helps me on my way !


----------



## Devmoo

All I can say is holly freaking crap these sound funomenal! I should note Coil I like my music pretty damn loud so, 10 DB and almost max volume is really good.


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> Okay...my head is spinning...LOL
> 
> For vinyl its a different set.
> 
> ...


 
 good luck man and please report back with your findings ,I'm looking for Mullard myself


----------



## CoiL

acrorob, balanced triodes are not important in case of Aune T1 imo. I have some tubes that are measured with different triode values (not sure how true & accurate results) but they sound great and are no way out of channel balance or anything else.


----------



## CoiL

devmoo said:


> All I can say is holly freaking crap these sound funomenal! I should note Coil I like my music pretty damn loud so, 10 DB and almost max volume is really good.


 
 Go easy with it, they are 35Ohm cans, though planars are hard to drive.


----------



## CoiL

spacequeen7 said:


> good luck man and please report back with your findings ,I'm looking for Mullard myself


 
 If you want warm & intimate tubey sound for older rock etc. music then these should be great


coil said:


> Mullard PCC189 Blackburn with good price (can`t make out from the pic if they are with grey or metal vertical center plate, I think grey plate was better if I remember correctly): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Matched-pair-Mullard-PCC189-7ES8-tubes-shield-logo-NIB-excellent-condition-/390726042813?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5af91644bd


 
  
 Edit: Note to myself - got to learn edit posts not post 3 posts in row ;D Over & out! Merry X-mas!


----------



## Salvatore

magusunltd said:


> The Aune T1 is sufficiently powerful enough to handle the HD650 on highest gain. Although it barely reaches my "max" loudness.


 


coil said:


> HD650 should be 300Ohm if I`m correct, so you should use higher gain position +10dB (little DIP switches at bottom of Aune T1) or maybe even highest +16dB gain as user magusunltd said he uses.


 


isendono said:


> I've the sennheiser hd580 which is 300ohm as well , and I'm using +10 gains. I only need to turn knob between 8 and 9 oclock and its sufficiently loud enough.


 
  
 I have compared HD650 against my K702 anniversaries and the HD650 are definitely easier to drive. For both headphones 0 gain is sufficient imo (volume levels maxed from my pc). With max gain I can't go very high with the volume. It seems that some of you guys are listening very loud. Just be sure not to damage your ears. isendono seems to be using reasonable levels.


----------



## icecap

for all the Siemens mention, I am quite surprise so little was being said on the true E88CC version as the 6922 substitutes for T1.. with the time this festive period offers, I guess this tube should really deserve more recognition, especially for those that craves for some premium value in tube selection for T1..
  
 as far as I know, there were variations in the metal tags inside the tube; A6, A4, A3, A2 etc, in order of performance, seemingly, and price as one can expect.. over the time I have had it, my A6 version is already one that gives me all smiles which, frankly, I really not sure if there are any other tubes that can push the performance significantly higher without paying a more hefty price for a single tube..
  
 on my DT990Pro, the separation is very distinct.. I came to realise to be able to hear so many aspect of the instruments playing in creation of the music is really very enjoyable.. I can follow the beat of the drum at the rear of my head, or notice the snare lightly at the top right of my head.. you get what I mean? when certain recordings were very well mastered, that can really show as the soundstage is no longer limited to width, but also height and depth.. 3D sounding or holographic in this sense is really appropriate..
  
 and in my opinion, this Siemens E88CC I just could not describe how forward is the midrange, how much fall off is the highs, how low the bass can extend.. the cleaniness and separation of the sound just draw me to listen to music without bother much on the 3 frequencies.. maybe I am used to DT990pro sound signature which is a V-shape, so if I am not particular on any frequency response from this tube, it could just be it is very balanced from top to bottom..
  
 I understand there are other higher end tubes for this series, Valvo, Telefunken, CCa.. at almost, twice or more of this tube, I am not sure if the performance increase is ever gonna in folds, probably unless I upgrade my cans to be able to discern that.. and to put into perspective, I did tried out a 7308 from my friend and I am glad I got the Siemens E88CC..


----------



## CoiL

icecap said:


> and in my opinion, this Siemens E88CC I just could not describe how forward is the midrange, how much fall off is the highs, how low the bass can extend.. the cleaniness and separation of the sound just draw me to listen to music without bother much on the 3 frequencies.. maybe I am used to DT990pro sound signature which is a V-shape, so if I am not particular on any frequency response from this tube, it could just be it is very balanced from top to bottom..


 
 Sounds like a description to my Siemens PCC189 (the one made in Blackburn according to eched code). Although with certain music and bands I find some other tubes better due to soundstage difference or some nuances "boosted".


----------



## arcorob

Can someone answer what might be a silly newbie question but I will ask anyway as searching the 245 pages might exceed my abilities...LOL
  
 Okay, so on the T1, we have the USB input through the DAC, through the Tube and RCA out analog signal
  
 It has been said that using the RCA in uses the DAC but no the tube. I am with you so far.
  
 But here is my question - Anything going IN the RCA In's is analog anyway by default (it has to be) so what purpose does it serve to go through the DAC ? what is gained ?
  
 Thanks in advance...


----------



## MrEleventy

arcorob said:


> Can someone answer what might be a silly newbie question but I will ask anyway as searching the 245 pages might exceed my abilities...LOL
> 
> Okay, so on the T1, we have the USB input through the DAC, through the Tube and RCA out analog signal
> 
> ...


Incorrect, RCA in uses the SS amp. DAC is not being used at all. It's just amping whatever is being fed in.


----------



## arcorob

mreleventy said:


> Incorrect, RCA in uses the SS amp. DAC is not being used at all. It's just amping whatever is being fed in.


 

 Okay..that makes sense - Thanks !


----------



## CoiL

Tube-nuts, help me out... I took some serious look @ my 6GM8/ECC86 Amperex tube etched code with magnifying glass & strong light + reflections and just can`t find any tiny trace of etched code print at the place of one symbol spot. All I can see is clear⊿oJ5. etched core is in very good condition. Could it be that the symbol behind ⊿ is not 6 or 8 and is little o ? And if I compare it with the curve size of that nr.5 at the end of the code then it`s smaller, since it is lower ring part of 8, all I`m guessing that it is just little o. Could it be? And what does it say then? usually it means the year it`s made.


----------



## slovetro

coil said:


> I know all that. I`m not newbie in this  I have some Blackburn made tubes also, labeled as Mullard, Valvo, Mazda and even one Siemens was Blackburn made if I remember correctly (don`t bother to bring them all out to check)  Also be warned that Blackburn made doesn`t always mean "warm" sounding tube, for example Mazda PCC189 I have is roughly said like 6922EH sounding with large soundstage and clarity with slightly "recessed" mids compared with old Mullard shield logo PCC189 which has warm intimate tubey sound (and I have 2 different versions of this which sound different) especially good for old rock & jazz  or Valvo PCC88 - they all are Blackburn made.
> 
> 
> Btw, acrorob, for which music genre you are mainly listening? Again I have to point out that 1 great tube doesn`t mean it`s good for every genre. For example my Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86 is "best" & most holographic sounding tube I have but it surely isn`t best for every genre. Most of the time I still find myself listening with Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88 GAC, Ultron SQ PCC189 & Siemens PCC189 with progressive rock/metal/djent/jazz. For electronic atmospheric music I mainly use Miniwatt-Dario ECC189, JAN Sylvania 6922 & 6922EH. If I would think of tube more-or-less good for all genres, I would probably choose Siemens PCC189.
> ...




For only $8, I'm interested in giving that tube a try. Is it really a shot in the dark or do you think it is likely a good tube?


----------



## CoiL

Can`t say anything for sure but I have one Philips PCC189 (Heerlen Holland) and it is very good, for me it sounds very similiar to Mullard ECC88 (newer shield logo Heerlen Holland) & Lorenz SEL PCC189 (Heerlen Holland) & GAE coded Amperex PQ shield logo 6DJ8. They all look with same inner build as this Ei tube. I`m just guessing but those Ei PCC189 should be pretty good and for 8$ it`s worth to try imo. I`ve gotten most of my tubes with even lower price and discovered some very good tubes that are worth many times the price imho. But it`s up to you. I have 44 tubes atm and 3/4 of them are very good, though about 10-15 of them stand out from others. Other 1/4 includes tubes that are not for my taste (some might find them very good), 1 or 2 out of those suck imo (watching movies/serial/documentals with those because of easy sounding dialogue).


----------



## mhamel

coil said:


> Tube-nuts, help me out... I took some serious look @ my 6GM8/ECC86 Amperex tube etched code with magnifying glass & strong light + reflections and just can`t find any tiny trace of etched code print at the place of one symbol spot. All I can see is clear⊿oJ5. etched core is in very good condition. Could it be that the symbol behind ⊿ is not 6 or 8 and is little o ? And if I compare it with the curve size of that nr.5 at the end of the code then it`s smaller, since it is lower ring part of 8, all I`m guessing that it is just little o. Could it be? And what does it say then? usually it means the year it`s made.


 
  
 It's probably the bottom of a 6 or 8.   What does the getter construction on that tube look like?  That may help narrow down the year, too.
  
 There wouldn't be a lowercase "o" in that position that I'm aware of.  The first year of 6GM8 production was 1958, so it would have the standard Philips etch code structure, where it's the last digit of the production year as the character following the factory symbol, in that case ⊿ for Herleen.


----------



## mhamel

slovetro said:


> For only $8, I'm interested in giving that tube a try. Is it really a shot in the dark or do you think it is likely a good tube?


 
  
  
 The Ei tube was made in Yugoslavia.   It's early 70s based on the A-Frame and getter.   I've got some Ei Philips PCC88s, they're not bad sounding tubes.
  
 Likewise, there is no visible etch code indicating the Lorenz tube was made in Herleen, at least not from the photos.
  
 The Mullards are also A-frame from what I can make out in the photos, probably a bit better than the Yugoslavian-manufactured tubes.
  
  
 From the same seller as the Mullards, 1966 Valvo (Philips / Herleen Mfg = same tube as the Amperex Bugle Boy of that year) PCC189s for $24 USD/pr.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-Valvo-PCC189-7ES8-tubes-NIB-Philips-Heerlen-Holland-/390688064788?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5af6d2c514


----------



## CoiL

Those on sale are Ei Philips according to sellers "philips etched codes" information.
 Asking from seller some detailed information would be easiest way to confirm.
  
 And I can see etched code on that Lorenz tube. Imo there`s clear delta at the beginning of lower line.
 But safest bet again, would be asking from seller 
  


mhamel said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Tube-nuts, help me out... I took some serious look @ my 6GM8/ECC86 Amperex tube etched code with magnifying glass & strong light + reflections and just can`t find any tiny trace of etched code print at the place of one symbol spot. All I can see is clear⊿oJ5. etched core is in very good condition. Could it be that the symbol behind ⊿ is not 6 or 8 and is little o ? And if I compare it with the curve size of that nr.5 at the end of the code then it`s smaller, since it is lower ring part of 8, all I`m guessing that it is just little o. Could it be? And what does it say then? usually it means the year it`s made.
> ...


 
 Yeah, I know that all again but it`s just so good quality etched code and if it were "bottom" of 6 or 8 then it would be larger. Plus, usually when etched codes come off then they leave some almost invisible mark on tube that comes up with strong white light on background + reflection + m.glass. But yeah, that probably is 6 or 8 most likely and since 8 has smaller circle, then it`s probably 8- year 1958 (or 68 ?, did they make them anymore that year?), october, 5th week.
  
 Oh, and just a notice for everyone, don`t mix up two signs - ⊿ & Δ - 1st is Philips Heerlen Holland but 2nd is Philips Copenhagen Denmark. Seller often mix those up but mostly they are ​⊿ and from Heerlen Holland. I haven`t come across Copenhagen Denmark version yet.
  
 Edit: Btw, some Mullards on the bid: 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161181486938?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161181486879?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161181486730?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
 Would like to try one out of them because I don`t have Mullard yet that has smaller gap between getter and horizontal plate under it.


----------



## mhamel

Yes, there were Philips tubes produced at the Ei factory in Yugoslavia, so it can still have Philips codes. 

On the ITT tube, I grabbed that image and enlarged it. My mistake on that one, it is a Herleen tube. 






coil said:


> Those on sale are Ei Philips according to sellers "philips etched codes" information.
> Asking from seller some detailed information would be easiest way to confirm.
> 
> And I can see etched code on that Lorenz tube. Imo there`s clear delta at the beginning of lower line.
> ...


----------



## CoiL

Imo it`s coded IPB ⊿4I1 
  
 I have 2x Lorenz SEL branded PCC189, 1st is IPB ⊿0L1 and 2nd is IPB ⊿0K5. Philips PCC189 that I have is IPB(it maybe also IPL, not sure)⊿5B4. They all sound basically same and differences are very little and come into play with hard analytical listening (used 2 different sounding cans, HD-662F & HD-681, to compare those). Nevertheless I found Philips PCC189 a tiny fraction better than others. Some early thread posters bought from same dealer as I and were happy with those Philips PCC189, especially for the money they got it.
  
 About those Ei PCC189... like I said best is to ask from seller but I`m guessing that he meant ⊿ by "Philips etched codes" and ⊿ is sure Heerlen plant product.
  
 Edit:
  
 Anyone want to try 6N27P (equivalent to 6GM8/ECC86) ? -> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261347352609
 They should be very good tubes and they are actually very hard to get.
  
 And thinking about grabbing one Ei PCC189 myself just for fun and to "brighten up" my collection.
  
 Edit2:
  
 Btw, I have some tube offerings in my list that have plenty of stock and should be good:
  
 Philips *ECC189/CV5331 *Heerlen Holland with *IX0-⊿**3K2* codes
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310355054686?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
 Philips *E88CC SQ gold pins *(used and no idea about condition)
* *http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370895764969?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
*JJ E88CC gold pins *(always wanted to have this in my collection but want some more feedback with Aune T1)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350134725410?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
 Brimar *ECC88/CV5358* (foreign made - whatever that means, chance it`s Heerlen again)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310087990709?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
 Philips *CV5331* (A-frame Heerlen)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CV5331-PHILIPS-Military-ex-MOD-VALVE-TUBE-ECC189-5960-99-037-2298-NEW-BOXED-/321099731310?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item4ac309116e
  
 Edit3:
  
 10x pair of *PCC189 Miniwatt* (Heerlen Holland) for good price
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-PCC189-MINIWATT-TUBES-MATCHED-CODES-PRODUCTION-DELTA1G4-NOS-TUBES-/190981864398?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c7767fbce


----------



## arcorob

Coil...two questions
  
 Did GE have ~~6GM8/ECC86 that were made for them in Holland ?
  
 Also how are the old Reflektor plant ~~6GM8/ECC86?
  
 Is it the 6GM8 ECC86 that sound more holographic or is it more dependent on the tube maker?
  
 Thanks !!


----------



## CoiL

LOL, you can`t say that just 6GM8/ECC86 tube type sounds holographic ;D;D;D And it`s not dependent on tube maker also. Usually those tube types that sound "holographic" are pretty specific.
  
 About how is 6N27P equivalent to 6GM8/ECC86? Use google and search for tube data sheets & museums for info. For example: http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_6gm8.html


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> LOL, you can`t say that just 6GM8/ECC86 tube type sounds holographic ;D;D;D And it`s not dependent on tube maker also. Usually those tube types that sound "holographic" are pretty specific.
> 
> About how is 6N27P equivalent to 6GM8/ECC86? Use google and search for tube data sheets & museums for info. For example: http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_6gm8.html


 

 Thanks Coil...They were really two separate questions..(one about 6GM8) and another about how the 6N27P reflecktor tubes from 1969 sound.
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/251235437500?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
  
 The problem is my friend...my OCD kicks in so....there are about 10 tubes I want to buy and try. So I have to SIT on my hands and chant "I will not buy 10 tubes, I will not buy 10 tubes, I will not buy 10 tubes...umm...at least not today"....LOL


----------



## CoiL

LMAO! ;D I know what you feel, thats the thing with low-priced tubes on eBay - you just can`t resist buying & trying them! It`s fun and addictive! No wonder I have 44 tubes and still some @ sight! ;D
 With expensive tubes it`s easier to give up and think rationally. And fun about hunting cheap tubes is that you will probably find some gems with ridiculous price and they are actually worth a lot more, it`s like investing to collectors stuff, those prices will only rise!
  
 But there is also option to search out most recommended ones and rely on gut feeling that it will match your cans/taste/music/hearing. 
 So far most certain tubes to go are cheaper great all-arounder Amperex OG 6DJ8 & more expensive Amperex 7308 with its "holographic" impressions.


----------



## spacequeen7

Coil "knows what you feel" ..but he keep posting this hard to resist tubes ..I'm with you arcorob (trying really hard )but the 69 Reflector is very tempting (double support/wire D-Getter )


----------



## CoiL

Best deal out of those links I gave is imo *2 x PCC189 MINIWATT *(delta1G4 Heerlen Holland) or *Ei PCC189. *I made an offer on latter (6$ per 1 tube) and if it`s accepted I`m going to get one. And post is free, LMAO crazy deal imho.
  
 But I have 1 "secret" deal also ;P Won`t get them myself because I already have them but some of you fellas will get the chance @ PM 
  
 Edit: I got your PM and answered to you.


----------



## spacequeen7

*


----------



## meggerman

do you get the benefit of the Tube sound from the headphone output? (obviously the tube only works with USB)
  
 thanks
  
 also.. would these work well with IEM's like the *Hifiman RE-400 *?


----------



## CoiL

Of course! That`s the point of this DAC that you can "colour" sound with tube for finding good match with your cans/music/hearing. About IEM`s I owe a answer.


----------



## MrEleventy

IMO, I think the T1 pairs well with neutral-ish type of hps. The subtle changes in rolling tubes are more noticable. In a roundabout fashion, I'm saying yes. Should pair well with the re-400s.


----------



## meggerman

thanks for the replies.
  
 i need to read this thread through i think before I consider a purchase. Im new to all this stuff


----------



## CoiL

One Ei PCC189 incoming soon! For 6$ it`s bargain anyway, bad tube or not (I belive it`s good, especially if it`s Heerlen Philips). Anyway nice addition to my tube madness 
 Atm I feel there are 3 tubes that I still want to get. JJ E88CC goldpin, 6n27p or rocket 6n23p and one J**** tube 
 Of course would like to get 7308 but... my rational thinking kicks in and don`t want to spend that money on single tube. I already have "holographic" sounding Amperex 6GM8 
 so I`m pretty good but 7308 would be great because it`s been hyped so much (It`s like reference tube) and would like to compare it with everything else I have. We´ll see


----------



## arcorob

So I ordered some tubes the other day..before a lot of dialog here...I think they will be neat to try
  
 Should have this one tomorrow - Note one has the red dot - not exactly vintage (1986 and 1991)
 ~~Voskhod 6N23P

  
 And
  
 ~~Vintage Amperex Tube 6GM8 / ECC86 - should have it Monday


----------



## CoiL

Congrats on that Amperex 6GM8/ECC86 ! If I may ask, how much did it cost? Those are really rare and I`m lucky to have one.
 If it`s the same tube on pic that you bought (⊿8J3) then yours should be made 2 weeks before mine (⊿8J5).


----------



## mhamel

Today's project...
  
 A friend of mine has a T1 that he uses exclusively as a DAC.   He was looking for a pair of short, flexible RCA cables to help keep clutter to a minimum.   After looking around and not really finding what he was looking for that was reasonably priced, I decided to make up a pair for him.   They're right around 1ft long.  
  
 24 awg silver plated copper wire, twisted pair construction.  Nylon braided sleeving, Kester silver solder and Neutrik/REAN gold plated RCA connectors with built-in boots/strain reliefs:
  
  

  
  
     -Mike


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> Congrats on that Amperex 6GM8/ECC86 ! If I may ask, how much did it cost? Those are really rare and I`m lucky to have one.
> If it`s the same tube on pic that you bought (⊿8J3) then yours should be made 2 weeks before mine (⊿8J5).


 

 Does $14.99 and free shipping sound too high ? LOL
  
 Hoping it IS what it appears
  
 another picture


----------



## CoiL

15$ for it is superb deal! But I got it even cheaper, more than half cheaper ;D Maybe I already asked but what cans are you using? So I could predict your outcome little.
  


mhamel said:


> Today's project...
> 
> A friend of mine has a T1 that he uses exclusively as a DAC.   He was looking for a pair of short, flexible RCA cables to help keep clutter to a minimum.   After looking around and not really finding what he was looking for that was reasonably priced, I decided to make up a pair for him.   They're right around 1ft long.
> 
> ...


 
 Those look really good and quality is superb no doubt (Y)


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> Does $14.99 and free shipping sound too high ? LOL
> 
> Hoping it IS what it appears
> 
> another picture


 
  
  
 Rob,
  
 Yep, it is what it appears.   The top line of the etch code starts with tN = that's the Philips type code for ECC86 (6GM8).    Take a look here for lots more info on reading the codes:  http://frank.pocnet.net/other/Philips/PhilipsCodeListAB.pdf
  
  
    -Mike


----------



## arcorob

mhamel said:


> Rob,
> 
> Yep, it is what it appears.   The top line of the etch code starts with tN = that's the Philips type code for ECC86 (6GM8).    Take a look here for lots more info on reading the codes:  http://frank.pocnet.net/other/Philips/PhilipsCodeListAB.pdf
> 
> ...


 

 Yeah...the codes are making me nuts..I am out of my realm (now ask me about 12AX7's...;lol)
  
 So two things (replaying to two posts...lol)
  
 First, what do you make of this, GE made in Holland and advertised as ~~6GM8 ECC86 code is ~~tN2 D3A2

  
  
 So my cans..SENN HD 280 Pro...BUT almost exclusively listen with these
  
http://www.polkaudio.com/products/monitor70   in cherry wood
  
 They are heavy on my head but sound great...LOL


----------



## arcorob

mhamel said:


> Today's project...
> 
> A friend of mine has a T1 that he uses exclusively as a DAC.   He was looking for a pair of short, flexible RCA cables to help keep clutter to a minimum.   After looking around and not really finding what he was looking for that was reasonably priced, I decided to make up a pair for him.   They're right around 1ft long.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Mike, nice work !! Very clean


----------



## arcorob

I am trying very hard not to buy like 5 tubes...I haven't even taken delivery of one yet so I need to sloooooowwww...down


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> Yeah...the codes are making me nuts..I am out of my realm (now ask me about 12AX7's...;lol)
> 
> So two things (replaying to two posts...lol)
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 If the factory code starts with D, then it's made by the Valvo factory in Hamburg, looks like 1963.  If the price is good, grab it... should be a nice sounding tube.
  
 LOL @ the visual of a pair of Monitor 70s strapped to your head.   Still probably lighter than my LCD-X.  Hahahah
  
    -Mike


----------



## CoiL

arcorob, yeah that 6GM8 looks like Valvo Hamburg and it should be nice sounding tube but you never know. Consider that you can`t expect that to sound like my "holographic" Amperex OG 6GM8. For me it would be pretty much jumping into darkness. I have few PCC88/PCC189 D coded tubes, they are good but not soundstage "kings" so to say. 6GM8 should be different thingy though.
 I hope those senns 280 pro`s sound great with "holographic" tubes. As far as I know those are pretty bass heavy?  How about soundstage? If it has small headroom then it might be limiting factor to hear this "holographic" sound.
  
 mhamel... please don`t speak about LCD-X ...making me jealous! -.- I wish I had such money!


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> arcorob, yeah that 6GM8 looks like Valvo Hamburg and it should be nice sounding tube but you never know. Consider that you can`t expect that to sound like my "holographic" Amperex OG 6GM8. For me it would be pretty much jumping into darkness. I have few PCC88/PCC189 D coded tubes, they are good but not soundstage "kings" so to say. 6GM8 should be different thingy though.
> I hope those senns 280 pro`s sound great with "holographic" tubes. As far as I know those are pretty bass heavy?  How about soundstage? If it has small headroom then it might be limiting factor to hear this "holographic" sound.
> 
> mhamel... please don`t speak about LCD-X ...making me jealous! -.- I wish I had such money!


 

 Coil,
  
 You DO know I am going to find one of those suckers...and the much whispered CCa
  
 ~~Holland made Cca tubes with the pinched waist indented glass midsections, said to be the most sonically "3D" tube ever made, of any type


----------



## CoiL

Good luck finding this tube with price that keeps you alive! ;D I would just get Amperex 7308 and put money on better cans + amp imo.
 But what do I know... I`m just low-budget tube hoarder ;D
  
Edit: Those who live in EU ( this deal is ONLY inside EU ) and want 3 very good tubes (especially for EDM but great overall tube also) for very good price then PM me and I`ll share link. Who`s first & don`t think long, gets them!


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> Good luck finding this tube with price that keeps you alive! ;D I would just get Amperex 7308 and put money on better cans + amp imo.
> But what do I know... I`m just low-budget tube hoarder ;D
> 
> Edit: Those who live in EU ( this deal is ONLY inside EU ) and want 3 very good tubes (especially for EDM but great overall tube also) for very good price then PM me and I`ll share link. Who`s first & don`t think long, gets them!


 

 Better cans ? Better cans ?
  
 Okay, I'll go dust off my Koss Pro AA from 1976


----------



## Tristan944

How is it possible that tubes from the 1960's still work? Obviously I'm a tube-noob, but dang I would think even unused tubes would have degraded or something.


----------



## icecap

mhamel said:


> Today's project...
> 
> A friend of mine has a T1 that he uses exclusively as a DAC.   He was looking for a pair of short, flexible RCA cables to help keep clutter to a minimum.   After looking around and not really finding what he was looking for that was reasonably priced, I decided to make up a pair for him.   They're right around 1ft long.
> 
> ...


 
  
 great one Mike! I made interconnects myself too, and have tried various connectors.. Neutrik/Rean/Yongsheng are very good and easy to work with.. and if you have the chance, or not sure if you already did, try it with Canare plugs.. they are just amazing. both build and sonic quality alike..
  


tristan944 said:


> How is it possible that tubes from the 1960's still work? Obviously I'm a tube-noob, but dang I would think even unused tubes would have degraded or something.


 

 I can help you "throw" them away!


----------



## arcorob

tristan944 said:


> How is it possible that tubes from the 1960's still work? Obviously I'm a tube-noob, but dang I would think even unused tubes would have degraded or something.


 
 Nope...unless the vacuum is broken ..no way to degrade,
  
 A video on how they are made
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n4WVRKkmww
  
 In the 50's, 60's and 70's, tube production had reached its pinnacle of perfection. The equipment, materials, etc. much as we have such sophistication in computer chips today.


----------



## Tristan944

arcorob said:


> Nope...unless the vacuum is broken ..no way to degrade,
> 
> A video on how they are made
> http://www.pcdistrict.com/modules/productcatalog/product_images/145253-koss-pro4aa-5518.jpg




That link is a picture. Can you provide the video link?


----------



## arcorob

tristan944 said:


> That link is a picture. Can you provide the video link?


 

 Sorry...
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n4WVRKkmww
  
 I corrected the one above also


----------



## arcorob

So first tube roll for my T1
  
 6H23N (not an n, upside down U)
  
 date - 10-86
  
 Russian tube..He listed as ~~Voskhod  6N23P...hmmm..
  
 Well, I paid $9.00 for 2 (he would not split them) - Tests as new but
  
 So irrelevant because how does it sound ? Nothing at all to write home about. Its a tube. It works.
  
 Tried a variety of song types and while it keeps the vocals centered (mostly) they do not sound 3D ..I am not sure how to put it except to say it made my system sound cheaper ...does that make sense...so these go to the "nope" pile.
  
 Cant wait till Monday when I get two more to try
 Amperex 6GM8

  
 ~~6GM8 ECC86 Vacuum Tube (GE Label) made in HOLLAND


----------



## spacequeen7

^^


> 6H23N (not an n, upside down U)


 
 it's Russian "P" 
 I got two of this (they were also my first tubes )
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161153073863?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
  
 they sound just like you described, (double support ) supposed to be better
 P.S. I did ordered  6H27P  1969 (double support/wire that you linked earlier ) 
 this one should arrive  any day
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/200988005021?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 
  
 you will like Amperex for sure


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> ^^
> it's Russian "P"
> I got two of this (they were also my first tubes )
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/161153073863?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> ...


 

 Thanks Spacequeen
  
 I am sure I will..I have been around tubes enough to know there are good ones, so so ones and then REALLY good ones...I am just glad to be playing with tubes again as my Velleman is all set. Hmmm...maybe I can get a tube turntable...LOL
  
 I often thought of getting a tube preamp but I just like my Marantz too darn much to swap it out...


----------



## CoiL

That Amperex will wipe ass with that 6N23P in terms of "3D" soundstage. I belive you will know soon what "holographic sound" means  Hope your cans can produce that!
 Hope that GE 6gm8 is good also.
  
 You should have read more impressions from this thread about russian tubes.
 1st - they are quite foward & intimate sounding. 2nd - soundstage isn`t large. According to my experience & many others impressions in this thread, I would say it`s smaller than average tube has. Rocket should be most airy sounding out of them but be aware - there are different labeled rockets out there. Salvatore had the "right" one if I remember correctly. Use thread search and you should find info about different rockets.
  
 spacequeen7, don`t forget to write detailed impressions about 6N27P because as far as I know it has not been discussed here before. Interested in those. If they are near good as my Amperex 6GM8 then will maybe get a pair.


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> That Amperex will wipe ass with that 6N23P in terms of "3D" soundstage. I belive you will know soon what "holographic sound" means  Hope your cans can produce that!
> Hope that GE 6gm8 is good also.
> 
> You should have read more impressions from this thread about russian tubes.
> ...


 

 Coil...tell us how you really feel...LOL
  
 The Russian tube was ordered before I knew better...LOL
  
 I keep telling you..I don't use the "cans" much at all and my speakers are more than equipped to handle the 3D soundstage...


----------



## spacequeen7

pulled the trigger on this one
  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310804845126?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## Tristan944

coil said:


> That Amperex will wipe ass with that 6N23P......


 
 ^Lols  I love the imagery of that.


----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> I keep telling you..I don't use the "cans" much at all and my speakers are more than equipped to handle the 3D soundstage...


 
 Then Amperex 6GM8 should be bliss to you! I hope you won`t be disappointed  Just a note, if you haven`t used to analytical listening to detect differences in tubes then it might not be SO large difference as you imagined but 6GM8 is easy to "notice", in good way imho.


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> Then Amperex 6GM8 should be bliss to you! I hope you won`t be disappointed  Just a note, if you haven`t used to analytical listening to detect differences in tubes then it might not be SO large difference as you imagined but 6GM8 is easy to "notice", in good way imho.


 

 Hmm..I would not worry about my critical listening skills or ability to detect subtle differences. Its all good. Speaking of all good
  
 what can you tell me about the tube in the left 6GM8 ECC86 Amperex Made in Holland with the A frame..thanks !


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> what can you tell me about the tube in the left 6GM8 ECC86 Amperex Made in Holland with the A frame..thanks !


 
  
 Rob,
  
 Without seeing the etch code, hard to tell more than the general age based on construction.   A-Frame dimpled disc getter means means it's 1970 or newer.
  
 Do you have another photo that shows the codes at the bottom?
  
 Thanks,
   -Mike


----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Then Amperex 6GM8 should be bliss to you! I hope you won`t be disappointed  Just a note, if you haven`t used to analytical listening to detect differences in tubes then it might not be SO large difference as you imagined but 6GM8 is easy to "notice", in good way imho.
> ...


 
 Is it the 6GM8 you bought (earlier pic) or some other candidate? No idea or info about this tube from me. This is the first Amperex 6GM8 with A-Frame I`ve come across so far.
 But like mhamel said it should be tube from 70`s or later since ealrier Heerlen tubes had mainly o-ring getter or dimpled disc getter with single support leg (made only in short period between o-ring and a-frame).


----------



## arcorob

No worries...we understand
  
 No worries...we understand
  
 No worries...we understand
  
 End Loop (lol)
  
 In answer to your repetitive question, no its not the one I bought, it was one I was looking at for $27
  
 Hope that answers all of your questions - hahahahahahahaha


----------



## spacequeen7

my tube hunting is about to end , bidding on E188CC Mullard Gold Pin is pending 
 here is short list of my collection (will do short review of all the tubes soon )
  
 last one I just purchased 
*NOS SIEMENS E88CC 6922 PLATINUM TUBE for RODE K2 MIC*
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230899823502&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
  
 NOS Russian military 6N1P-EV (6H1-EB) -don't buy it !
 6N23P-EV / E88CC / 6DJ8 / 6922 NOS (double support A-Frame )
 E88CC / ECC88 / 6DJ8 / ROCKET 6N23P / 2 NEW NOS 1986
 2x 6N27P / ECC86 / 6GM8 Tubes NOS 1969 (double support/wire)
 1962 Vintage Amperex 6922 E88cc Hewlett Packard Audio Tube Gold Pin
 Genalex Gold Lion 6922 Gold Pin tube
 E88CC/CCa Valvo Red Logo 1964 Gold Pin
 E88CC MINIWATT SQ. BIG ROUND GETTER Gold Pin


----------



## CoiL

> 2x 6N27P / ECC86 / 6GM8 Tubes NOS 1969 (double support/wire)


 
 Looking foward to impressions about those. Others don`t seem appealing to me (price!). Hope your tube buying has reached to end! 
 Mine still going. Not that I haven`t found what I want, I have, but it`s just addictive! ;D ....aaahhhhh grrrrhmmmm -.-


----------



## spacequeen7

coil said:


> Looking foward to impressions about those. *Others don`t seem appealing to me (price!)*. Hope your tube buying has reached to end!
> Mine still going. Not that I haven`t found what I want, I have, but it`s just addictive! ;D ....aaahhhhh grrrrhmmmm -.-


 
 I don't think it's about price at this point ..you can have 50 tubes on the cheap (Driver Grade-suitable for the output buffer stage of a DAC or CD Player) or 5 top notch (Gold/Platinum grade- Low noise and microphonics-preamp tube) I choose the second


----------



## Zalgorithm

I too have joined the T1 club and I've been looking to upgrade from the stock 6N11 tube. And like many, I'm also new to the HeadFi community and to tubes, but it's been fun so far.
  
 It appears I may need to try a few tubes to find what I like and I'm looking at a 6DJ8 Amperex white label and maybe something else. EH 6922 gold pin? Rocket logo 6H23? Recommendations or thoughts?


----------



## mhamel

zalgorithm said:


> I too have joined the T1 club and I've been looking to upgrade from the stock 6N11 tube. And like many, I'm also new to the HeadFi community and to tubes, but it's been fun so far.
> 
> It appears I may need to try a few tubes to find what I like and I'm looking at a 6DJ8 Amperex white label and maybe something else. EH 6922 gold pin? Rocket logo 6H23? Recommendations or thoughts?


 
  
  
 The majority of this thread is about tubes people suggest or have tried in the T1.   You don't need to read the entire thread, but please check the FAQ on Page 1 and read through at least some of the thread, which show you many tube suggestions.


----------



## CoiL

spacequeen7 said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Looking foward to impressions about those. *Others don`t seem appealing to me (price!)*. Hope your tube buying has reached to end!
> ...


 
 For what it counts... my thoughts about this "Gold/Platinum grade- Low noise and microphonics-preamp tube" staff.
 Maybe I read it all out wrong way but seems that you are trying to say that 50 cheap tubes "(Driver Grade-suitable for the output buffer stage of a DAC or CD Player)" are somehow less good than few well known high-grade tubes. Well, firstly, in case of Aune T1, those "(Gold/Platinum grade- Low noise and microphonics-preamp tube)" are acting same way - "suitable for the output buffer stage of a DAC" because that`s what Aune T1 is - an tube buffered output stage SS DAC, so in that point, there`s no difference. Imho, this "low-noise & microphonics" is irrelevant in this buffer stage.
 Have no issues with my cheap tubes collection in that part. There are 1 or 2 tubes that are making slight "hum or hiss" when nothing is played and volume is turned to max but again, it`s irrelevant when music is playing, you just can`t hear it and you certainly won`t listen @ max level. And if someone does, then he/she has probably already damaged hearing and won`t hear it anyway.
 From my point of view I would certainly prefer hunting low priced tubes than buying 1 or 5 super-duper-hyped-high-grade-cryo-treated-gold-pin-tube. Not saying they are bad but you can never
 rely that it will suit to your hearing or cans or music or taste. Of course they have greater audio imaging, separation etc. than most of tubes ...but ...for example, I have this Amperex 6GM8/ECC86 and it is just awesome "holographic" sounding tube, but - does it fit for every genre I listen? No actually. Most of the time I still prefer Amperex OG 6DJ8 steel pin for progressive metal/rock/jazz (which is actually preferred by many over gold pin high-grade tubes depending on gear being used, music genre etc.), because it brings guitar riffs more into "play" and has better "front of stage" imaging and it is slightly better fit for my cans & tames Aune T1 bright sounding amp part also. Like I told there are many nuances that come into play and thinking that "I will buy gold pin high-grade tube and everything is up to its best" may not work (and probably won`t for many). Another example... many prefer "old sounding", intimate, warm, grainy etc. tubes with old rock/acoustic or other more specific tastes or genres - you just can`t have it with "holographic" sounding tube - as awesome as it might be. I have 4 or 5 of these intimate, warm etc. tubes that sound great with old rock etc. but it just isn`t for my taste and I don`t listen much this kind of music but those tubes are certainly worth having.
 I think for ppl that listen very many different genres it is much better to hunt cheaper tubes, read impressions and find good match for they setup than buying 1 "top-notch" tube (for different reasons and nuances I just told about). They can get them cheap, have fun with large variety of tube types in area that is largely undiscovered PCC189/PCC88/ECC189/6GM8/PCC85 etc. 
 Like I told, I have already found my favorite tubes for different genres. It`s just interesting and fun to explore and also invest into some rare tubes that might be even more expensive in the future
 than those gold-pin high-grade tubes.
 For the end of my 5 cents...
  
 Everything that glows isn`t gold ! (I mean gold pins & high price in this context).

 Have fun with you high-grade tubes and hope you like them. Still looking foward to 6N27P impressions  Over and out!


----------



## arcorob

Speaking of Gold...I scored some !!!
  
 So the Amperex 6GM8 ECC86 I purchased for $14.99 ? Is the Globe version Coil talks about and it does sound sweet !!!
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/251410395162?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
  
 I'll also be testing the GE I bought that arrived also
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/331081350448?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
  
 The Amperex


----------



## CoiL

Glad you like it! Does it sound "holographic" compared to other tubes you have or not? Just asking because maybe I have gone nuts with all this tube hoarding and lost my credibility ;D


----------



## mhamel

coil said:


> Everything that glows isn`t gold ! (I mean gold pins & high price in this context).


 
  
 ^^ This.   Well said.
  
 One of the nice things about rolling into the T1 is that because the tube buffer has no gain, it doesn't need ultra low noise, low microphonic tubes.   "Driver grade" tubes work just fine, and have the same sound characteristics as their more expensive, lower-noise counterparts.
  
 Another thing to keep in mind.   The "magic" that some people like to talk about with certain tubes has pretty much everything to do with the chemistry and metallurgy involved at a particular plant, during a particular period.   The 6DJ8 family wasn't designed for use in audio.   It was designed for use as a signal amplifier in VHF and UHF tuner circuits.   It just happens to be that the 6DJ8, some of it's predecessors and related/similar dual triodes work well for audio.   It only stands to reason that other similar tubes built in the same plant, at the same time - using the same materials, batches of chemicals/coatings, can and most likely will have similar sound characteristics.    Just one of many examples - I've got some late 50s D-getter ECC189s that in the right circuit sound every bit as good as their 6DJ8/6922 counterparts, produced in the same plant/timeframe.  Yes I've compared them directly.  You do not necessarily have to spend top dollar to get outstanding sound.   The audiophile world has this perception that if it costs 10x more it must be that much better.   There's far too much listening with the wallet instead of the ears, imho.
  
 For many, half the fun of tube rolling is also in the journey.  Finding new tubes, experiencing the difference in sound, learning what sounds best to you... not just what someone else's subjective opinion may be.    That's not to say that going out and buying a few high-dollar popular recommended tubes isn't a valid way to go... to each the own.  Just don't discount other paths people take.


----------



## spacequeen7

coil said:


> For what it counts... my thoughts about this "Gold/Platinum grade- Low noise and microphonics-preamp tube" staff.
> Meybe I read it all out wrong way but seems that you are trying to say that 50 cheap tubes "(Driver Grade-suitable for the output buffer stage of a DAC or CD Player)" are somehow less good than few well known high-grade tubes. Well, firstly, in case of Aune T1, those "(Gold/Platinum grade- Low noise and microphonics-preamp tube)" are acting same way - "suitable for the output buffer stage of a DAC" because that`s what Aune T1 is - an tube buffered output stage SS DAC, so in that point, there`s no difference. Imho, this "low-noise & microphonics" is irrelevant in this buffer stage.
> Have no issues with my cheap tubes collection in that part. There are 1 or 2 tubes that are making slight "hum or hiss" when nothing is played and volume is turned to max but again, it`s irrelevant when music is playing, you just can`t hear it and you certainly won`t listen @ max level. And if someone does, then he/she has probably already damaged hearing and won`t hear it anyway.
> From my point of view I would certainly prefer hunting low priced tubes than buying 1 or 5 super-duper-hyped-high-grade-cryo-treated-gold-pin-tube. Not saying they are bad but you can never
> ...


 
 I think you got this a bit twisted ..I'm trying to acquire tubes that will be great in not just Aune T1 which is in fact buffer stage DAC ,I plan to upgrade to true tube amp and that's when the "gold/platinum grade will become a factor ,on the other hand it's investment as you already mention in previous post ,if I want to get steel pin Amperex 6DJ8 for about $20 it would take me 5 min flat to find one but I will pretty much end up using it only on T1,I truly believe steal pin sound "sandy/grainy" on T1 ..could be just me and the headphones I'm using  
 Talking about "progressive metal/rock/jazz" I think I just found what you would like


 this the best Russian tube I own ,I was very surprised how it sound it (pretty good for Heavy metal ,classic rock ,etc ....but little "sandy" )


----------



## CoiL

I have that russian 6N23P Reflector and I personally don`t like it. For me it isn`t grainy but it has like "through the blanket" sound, it`s quite intimate and warm, with smaller than average soundstage. And the one I have is bought from Mike @ Rockgrotto, it`s tested and with very good measurements for what it counts.
 I certainly prefer my Amperex OG 6DJ8 GAC and Ultron SQ PCC189 over it. Also Siemens PCC88 & PCC189. Actually it`s one of my least favorite (not worst) tubes.
  
 And for the part of "upgrading to ture tube amp" then my point stays pretty much same - everything that glows isn`t gold 
  
 Edit: sorry, I have different 6N23P - non EB version, so my comment doesn`t apply to your impressions.


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> Glad you like it! Does it sound "holographic" compared to other tubes you have or not? Just asking because maybe I have gone nuts with all this tube hoarding and lost my credibility ;D


 

 Yes, it does...Some other notes..Much deeper bass..clear but powerful and that fatiguing high is no longer there. The highs are detailed without be rolled off. Voices are awesome. Soundstage is wide and more important deep positionally.
  
 I have to comment though on what I perceive as "negative thinking" (not by you Coil..just using the same reply..lol)
  
  Its one thing to say one is just as pleased with cheap tubes, its another to make the claim that people pay premium prices because there is an expectation that the tube is x times better sounding than y. Nothing in audio works that way.
  
 It is very true that these tubes were never designed for use in audio they nonetheless were discovered to be quite musical due to inherent build characteristics. what often drives the price is not only the sound but scarcity of the product. So the price differential is not linear. A $10 driver grade tube may sound fine, but like any audiophile hobby, someone may be willing to pay 10x that amount to get a scarcer tube that that sounds only 5% better. No one expects it to sound 10x better.
  
 So for those unwilling to spend that, there are the $10 tubes, but don't make the statement that it is good enough for all. It is good enough for you and that's all you can speak to, For many, the Aune is a cheap toy. They spend more on the USB cable than we spend on the AUNE.
  
 Having been through dozens of tubes in another family - I know unequivocally that each tube is unique and that uniqueness coupled with its availability drive the price and what the market will bear.


----------



## Zalgorithm

mhamel said:


> ^^ This.   Well said.
> 
> One of the nice things about rolling into the T1 is that because the tube buffer has no gain, it doesn't need ultra low noise, low microphonic tubes.   "Driver grade" tubes work just fine, and have the same sound characteristics as their more expensive, lower-noise counterparts.
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks for this, it's actually very helpful. I have been reading through this thread when I have time, amongst others, but I'm just going to find a fairly inexpensive tube and give it a go. It's ultimately subjective and I'll find what my ears enjoy.


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> Yes, it does...Some other notes..Much deeper bass..clear but powerful and that fatiguing high is no longer there. The highs are detailed without be rolled off. Voices are awesome. Soundstage is wide and more important deep positionally.
> 
> I have to comment though on what I perceive as "negative thinking" (not by you Coil..just using the same reply..lol)
> 
> ...


 
  
 It's a general perception in audio (and many other things) that if it costs much more it must be much better - whether or not it's actually the case or not (sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't).  I'm quite familiar with what drives the costs.  The concept of perceived value based on cost is not a new one.  You can perceive it as negative thinking all you'd like, but that's not the case.  
  
 I am also fully aware that many people (including myself) are willing to spend money for a small percentage of improvement.  At the same time, if I find something great-sounding - be it tubes, gear, headphones, etc - at a low cost, I will not disregard it based on that.  Before the 6DJ8 became so popular, it was also a tube that was dirt cheap in comparison to what it is now.   I have tubes that range from a few dollars to hundreds of dollars and gear that ranges from cheap DIY to several thousand dollars, and they all have strengths and weaknesses.  I've been neck-deep in this hobby (obsession?) for over 30 years.  For the record, however, you will not find me among the ultra-expensive-cable crowd, especially digital cables such as USB.
  
 What I _am _saying is that it is _not absolutely necessary_ to spend large amounts of money for good or even great sound.  Regardless of the question of tubes, the T1 itself is an prime example of that.   I also said that there's *nothing wrong with either approach*, so please take the entire post into context.


----------



## spacequeen7

how would same of the experts here rate the sound quality of this unit in comparison to more expensive headphone amps (true tube amps)  ,I'm asking because it seems to me like this unit doesn't get much recognition on other forums due to not being tube amp


----------



## arcorob

Mhamel,
  
 I agree with some of what you said. I too do not disregard items because of a lesser price (the AUNE is a good example, another is the Art Phono DJ Pre which is a $50 phono stage that stomps some of the competition up to several hundred dollars).
  
 As to tube history, the 6DJ8 is in good company. ALL tubes were cheap in their heyday. The market that has driven them up is perceived sound quality and scarcity. People are not dumb. They will pay $100 for a tube over a $10 tube because there is enough research to tell them that the $100 tube WILL sound better and that they have sensitive enough equipment to realize its full potential.
  
 I also agree (to a degree on the cables ESPECIALLY USB..Don't get me started...lol) but I have heard tangible improvements with some cables.
  
 Anyway, peace and sorry if I sounded like I was picking at you..not my intent. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 If it sounded that way I apologize.
  
 enjoy
  
 Rob


----------



## arcorob

Coil ..shoot me now..lol
  
 Guess what ? I think the GE 6GM8/ECC66 from Holland sounds better overall. Tried that on out on the same music. Much cleaner and nicer bottom end. Really cool soundstage. I would say it is the equivalent of the Amperex with a much cleaner, clearer bottom end.
  
 Go figure ...but then again we must remember, everything is going to sound different on each system.


----------



## CoiL

Glad you like that GE. Yes, Amperex 6GM8 has maybe "recessed" bottom end at first, I thought same about my tube in beginning but after burning some time it got more "even". About clean & clear - I have nothing to say about that part with my tube, it`s most revealing, transparent & clear sounding tube I have probably and there is no match in terms of "3D soundstage". Also, imho, there are no rolled-off highs and soundstage feels "endless", especially with my HD-681 mk2 cans. Give it some time to burn in 
 But yes, there are many nuances that come into play like I said in my long post. 

 Can you give exact code of that GE and Amperex 6GM8?


----------



## arcorob

Exact codes
  
 Amperex  - /|8J3
  
 GE - TN2
          D3A2
  
 What does it mean ? (not good at reading THESE date/manufacturer codes)


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> Exact codes
> 
> Amperex  - /|8J3
> 
> ...


 
  
 Rob,
  
 Amperex is 1968, manufactured in Herleen, Holland.
  
 GE is 1963, manufactured in the Valvo plant in Hamburg Germany.   Despite the printed label, it was not made in Holland
  
   -Mike


----------



## arcorob

Thanks Mike !!!
  
 I really do like the GE and will be doing some critical listening this weekend. I may also do a moratorium on tube purchases for a while as I know what it is like to OCD (who me?) on the search for the PERFECT TUBE...LOL
  
 Again my thanks for the decryption...
  
 Rob


----------



## y0d4

guys, which lamp you suggest for this DAC is best for electronic music?
  
 thank you.


----------



## MrEleventy

y0d4 said:


> guys, which lamp you suggest for this DAC is best for electronic music?
> 
> thank you.


 You should tooootally get.... started on reading the first post. Just saying.


----------



## y0d4

mreleventy said:


> You should tooootally get.... started on reading the first post. Just saying.


 
 i agree with you, and i read what joeq70 wrote on first post, but did not get answer on my question.
 Also, i am new in hi-end word, special in tubes, don`t have any experience or knowledge about them.
 so off topic, can you give some links where i can get some basic info about tubes (special which are compatible with Aune) ? 
  
 thank you.


----------



## MrEleventy

spacequeen7 said:


> how would same of the experts here rate the sound quality of this unit in comparison to more expensive headphone amps (true tube amps)  ,I'm asking because it seems to me like this unit doesn't *get much recognition on other forums due to not being tube amp *


I wouldn't really compare them at all because of what I highlighted. Other tube amps are dependant on the dac/source that's feeding it. Aune T1 IS the dac. You can compare the amps in which case I would rate it low. I don't much like the SS amp that's in the T1, I find it bright, artificial and tinny. But the dac, It's a great dac that outperforms others IMO.


----------



## MrEleventy

y0d4 said:


> i agree with you, and i read what joeq70
> wrote on first post, but did not get answer on my question.
> Also, i am new in hi-end word, special in tubes, don`t have any experience or knowledge about them.
> 
> ...


Sure, Here.

Not to be snarky but... if you did read the first post, at the bottom is a link to Salvatore's post with tons of info.


----------



## wgkwgk

Look for posts from Coil and Salvatore--tons and tons of info.  They have had a major influence on my tube purchases.


----------



## spacequeen7

y0d4 said:


> guys, which lamp you suggest for this DAC is best for electronic music?
> 
> thank you.


 
 for electronic 
 I really like my Valvo (Red label) ,same family as TELEFUNKEN, SIEMENS, VALVO, LORENZ (punchy bass)


> These tubes are usually characterized by an impressive open "air" at the top end. The soundstage is large great 3-D image, bass is tight and accurate, dynamic and to some ears their lack of midrange warmth may be heard as bright. I tend to think of them as accurate, *and their clean*, focused sonic image is astonishing


 
 I recently compared Amperex vs. Valvo for electronic music and Valvo came on top at list for me and my headphones 
 @*MrEleventy* 


mreleventy said:


> I wouldn't really compare them at all because of what I highlighted. Other tube amps are dependant on the dac/source that's feeding it. Aune T1 IS the dac. You can compare the amps in which case I would rate it low. I don't much like the SS amp that's in the T1, I find it bright, artificial and tinny. But the dac, It's a great dac that outperforms others IMO.


 
 thank you ,I'm not sure if you familiar with "Project Ember" or any other  products from  garage1217 and was wondering how they compare to T1 or is there anyway you can improve T1


----------



## MrEleventy

I know of the Garage1217 projects but haven't heard them for myself. If you've maxed out on tube rolling... you can start rolling amps. I've been through a few (E17, O2, Darkvoice 336se, Magni, Tubemagic A1).


----------



## arcorob

mreleventy said:


> I wouldn't really compare them at all because of what I highlighted. Other tube amps are dependant on the dac/source that's feeding it. Aune T1 IS the dac. You can compare the amps in which case I would rate it low. I don't much like the SS amp that's in the T1, I find it bright, artificial and tinny. But the dac, It's a great dac that outperforms others IMO.


 

 Yup...clear as mud. LOL
  
 This is a bit confusing because truly, the AUNE is the sum of its parts. So are you saying when the headphone amp portion is not used (USB in to RCA out) then it is only going through the DAC? What about the gain dip switches, no effect on the line out either ?
  
 Thanks !!!


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> Yup...clear as mud. LOL
> 
> This is a bit confusing because truly, the AUNE is the sum of its parts. So are you saying when the headphone amp portion is not used (USB in to RCA out) then it is only going through the DAC? What about the gain dip switches, no effect on the line out either ?
> 
> Thanks !!!


 
  
 Rob,
  
 USB In -> RCA Out goes through the DAC and Tube Buffer.    The gain switches only apply to the headphone amp, not to the line out.
  
 Also, if you use RCA In -> Headphone Out, it does not use the tube.
  
 The Garage amps are more closely related to the Bravo / Indeed amps, which was how they came about in the first place, as a more "high end" alternative that didn't need all the mods people were doing to the Bravos.
  
   -Mike


----------



## arcorob

Okay..that clarifies...so in your opinion as a DAC, its pretty damn nice...its the amp portion you don't think too highly of...so one could literally use the RCA out via RCA to 3.5 into one of these and out to headphones...LOL...


----------



## MrEleventy

Or one of these.


----------



## arcorob

LOL..show off...that looks like Godzilla and son of Godzilla...


----------



## spacequeen7

^ great... more tubes to buy


----------



## arcorob

Two more tubes on the way
  
  
  
 Sylvania 6DJ8
 Mullard 6GM8/ECC86 made in Germany


----------



## teb1013

arcorob said:


> Two more tubes on the way
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Give us your impressions when you get to listen. I'm particularly interested in the Mullards.


----------



## teb1013

mreleventy said:


> Or one of these.




Wow! Impressive in every way!


----------



## CoiL

y0d4 said:


> guys, which lamp you suggest for this DAC is best for electronic music?
> 
> thank you.


 
 For electronic, best tubes from my collection are Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 Chartres France (tightest bass & kick out of my tubes and same time goes very deep lows), JAN Sylvania 6922 green label (for EM with more acoustic elements + vocals), Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86 orange/white prints (for atmospheric electronic music with large "endless" soundstage and 3D imaging) and also stock 6922EH tube is good if you like deep "flowing" bass and also large "sparkly" soundstage.
  
 About Miniwatt-Dario ECC189... I shared a deal link to some ppl and isendono bought 3 of them with crazy good price. Hope he wrotes his impressions when he gets them and burns them in littlebit.
  


arcorob said:


>


 
 Those are very interesting indeed. Looking foward to impressions.
  
 Edit: *HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY!!!*


----------



## BaTou069

Hello
  
 I am searching for a "low budget" entry level tube amp
  
 I use low impedance headphones: Alessandro MS1, HiFiMAN HE400 and NAD VISO HP50
  
 I found these to be the most appealing:
  
 Schiit Vali (The nicest one in looks, also a hybrid but I read that it's not a good match with Grado Cans, or my MS1)
 Little Dot I+ (The only one from the LD line that puts enough power into low ohm cans)
 Aune T1 (The only one that doesn't use the tube as an amp)
Garage1217 Project Ember (The ugliest one of all, my girlfriend won't like this in the living room hehe - and it's open!! )
  
So to you, dear Aune T1 owners:
Does this device deliver the "real" tube sound? I don't know what this is supposed to mean, but I would love to. The OP mentionend that the Aune T1 is a SS amp and a tube DAC, but what does this mean?
Does is still sound tubey? 
Thanks


----------



## CoiL

Sry, misread, wrong tube.


----------



## teb1013

batou069 said:


> Hello
> 
> I am searching for a "low budget" entry level tube amp
> 
> ...




I have no comparison with other tube equipment to judge the degree of "tubiness" but a little tube rolling reveals a significant difference in sound from tube to tube. The tube choices for the Aune are myriad. Some cheap ($8 USD) others expensive (my favourite, the Amperex 7308, costs $75 although the driver grade I use works fine and costs $50). The Aune uses the tube as a buffer on the dac. Take a look at the thread starter (and the linked posts by Salvatore) for more information about the sound of various tubes use the in thread search function to check out other Grado users comments.
 Neither the Vali, LD or Ember have a dac, so you will need one with any of those. The Vali looks great but doesn't permit tube rolling (you have to send the unit in to Schiit if a tube needs replacement. The LD looks the most like tube equipment. The Ember is open, as you say. It's also a DIY kit and costs more than any of the others. 
Good luck in your search.


----------



## arcorob

batou069 said:


> Hello
> 
> I am searching for a "low budget" entry level tube amp
> 
> ...


 

 In one word "Yes". It does deliver a tube sound.
  
 First. It is a SS amp and a SS DAC. A tube DAC would be the size of a bus. So all the solid state stuff does its job but exiting the DAC it uses the 6DJ8/6922 tube as a buffer and that is where the "tubey" sound comes from. As Coil pointed out, this is clearly evidenced by tube rolling. I myself in less than a week have tried 4 tubes, each distinctly unique in its presentation.
  
 Also, I think I can speak to tubes...LOL
  
 Vellmen amp welcoming the AUNE to the neighborhood

 Hammond Organ amp converted

  
 Coronado


----------



## BaTou069

arcorob said:


> In one word "Yes". It does deliver a tube sound.
> 
> First. It is a SS amp and a SS DAC. A tube DAC would be the size of a bus. So all the solid state stuff does its job but exiting the DAC it uses the 6DJ8/6922 tube as a buffer and that is where the "tubey" sound comes from. As Coil pointed out, this is clearly evidenced by tube rolling. I myself in less than a week have tried 4 tubes, each distinctly unique in its presentation.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Nice gear 
  
 I have a DAC (FiiO E18), so the LD or Vali could be a choice. But the all in one solution is quiet attractive, the Aune T1 looks better then the LD gear does...
  
 As I can see you have some serious tube amps. How does the Aune T1 compares to them, not being a real tube amp?
 Is a tube buffer enough in order to deliver tube sound, or does it come with a compromise?


----------



## White Lotus

arcorob said:


> Okay..that clarifies...so in your opinion as a DAC, its pretty damn nice...its the amp portion you don't think too highly of...so one could literally use the RCA out via RCA to 3.5 into one of these and out to headphones...LOL...


 
 I do it with my Bravo V3. Basically the same, but with an EQ.


----------



## arcorob

batou069 said:


> Nice gear
> 
> I have a DAC (FiiO E18), so the LD or Vali could be a choice. But the all in one solution is quiet attractive, the Aune T1 looks better then the LD gear does...
> 
> ...


 

 Really hard to say. Let me explain...
  
 My rig has been geared toward vinyl. The phono stage and preamp are solid state and they exit via the Velleman tube amp. The Velleman is sweet and very much taliorable by the swapping of 12AX7 input tubes (Mullard, RCA, GE, Sylvania) all unique.
  
 Previously, my digital input was via CD or from my Surface Tablet (3.5mm jack out to RCA's) into the preamp. The Surface has an onboard DAC but the sound was "ok".
  
 Now with the AUNE, I use the USB out on the Surface to the AUNE and then RCA out to the pre-amp. Amazing difference. Soundstage, clarity, nice forward mids...
  
 Then playing with the tubes (really the stock tube is better than one expects) you can hear the differences the types offer. So here was my review of the first ones. NOTE - this applies to my system. Of course every systems will be a bit different (links in the chain) but definitively , yes a clean tube sound...
  
*The Stock tube - 6922EH - New tube by Electro Harmonix - 3 1/2 stars (out of 5)*
 For a stock, new design tube, I have to say it has its merits. it has strong gain, very wide soundstage, brings the mid's into focus where they should be. The vocalist is present where they should be and clearly distinct in a 3D sort of way. The bottom is nice, not boomy but the top end, while detailed can be a bit fatiguing. I can say it is like an Audio Technica microline cart that hasn't broken in yet. Vaguely bordering on sibilant in that high upper range - not quite getting there but you almost expect it. For a stock new issue tube, not bad.
  
  
*Vintage Amperex Tube 6GM8 / ECC86 - With Orange Globe and made in Herleen Holland - 1968 - 4 stars (or maybe 3.8 stars * This is one of the holy grail tubes, hard to find with the globe in this setup. More often it has a bugle boy on it (not BUGLE BOY tubes..long story). They can be expensive and I snagged this for $14.99 It is a fine sounding tube, very holographic with nice highs and mids. It takes the edginess off that was present in the 6922EH but without being rolled off. Bass is very deep...perhaps too deep. I could feel it which was nice but found myself wondering if it was a bit boomy. Certainly would not be describe as tight crisp bass. Sort of made me think my bottom end was replaced with some Cerwin Vega D9's. From what I have heard so far..I would almost (and did) give it 4 stars but more listening with other types move it down to 3. So much for one of the better recommended. This is where system variations truly dictate what is good for whom
  
*Vintage Amperex PCC88 Tube (7DJ8) Holland - with Orange Globe Amperex Seam - 69-15 code - 5 Stars ******
 Simply amazing at all levels - I don't have to say more. STRONG bass for you headphone listeners without being boomy. TOP RATING - Tied with the other 5 Star
  
*6GM8 ECC86 Tube (GE Label marking) made in HOLLAND - Vintage 1963 - 4.25 Stars **** *
 This one made my eyes pop. It is not one that was advertised as remarkable, in fact, I don't see a lot of listing for it (Brent J doesn't) but I guess for me it is a best kept secret. From top to bottom, everything was detailed, in the right place with a wide holographic sound stage. The bass is where the Amperex SHOULD have been but was not, the vocals a pure joy as you could hear the vocalist at the mic. Vey nice, clear separation of instruments, nothing munged together. So far, my best tube. One note, it says MADE IN HOLLAND on it (factory lettering) but the CODES say it was made in Hamburg Germany. WWII was over in 1963, right ? LOL
  
*Mullard 6GM8/ECC86 Coded- ~~D4A2 - 4.5 Stars **** *(revised)*
 I was excited to get my first Mullard in this series as I have come to expect good things. Now I have received TWO of these, same date code, same lot and never seen a socket. UPDATE - After over 40 hours break-in, I have completely revised my opinion. This is the tube Mullard is known for. Warm, velvet, detailed without being fatiguing. High's are sweet with no roll-off and bass is like comfy slippers. Soundstage is perfect and mids, nicely forward. It doesn't get the full 5 stars because I have heard a few tubes with just a tad more details but no one would ever be sorry buying this tube.
  
*Sylvania . 6DJ8 ECC88 Halo Getter Yellow Lettering USA FB EFB - 4 Stars *
 Now this is more like it. Very nice tube. Beautiful soundstage, deep base but not boomy. Nice mid's. For under $10 shipped, this tube is beautiful. So why 4 stars ? Comparatively, the GE at 4.25 STARs still bests this one slightly with a bit more detail and a bit more forward in the mids, Still a beautiful tube and if I never heard the GE, this would be my #1. There is a smooth quality to it, velvety that I expected from the Mullard (but did not get). You would be crazy not to try one for a price in this range.
  
*GE Labeled SIEMENS 6AQ8 ECC85 GERMANY - cant make out date code 5.0 Stars *****/*
 This bad boy is amazing, Soundstage impresses you immediately as does the detail. This and my other GE labeled tube will knock your socks off.  Would make anyone happy -this 6AQ8 which I think has a tad better soundstage (by a thumbnail) but also just a thumbnail less bass. . I listened to about 12 different type songs and could find no wrong EXCEPT some heavy metal tune by Nickelback and that may be the mastering, I need to check. But all other cuts, gorgeous. Vocals will make your head spin and take notice.
  
*GE Labeled USA Made 6DJ8- Holy Cow  4.5 Stars ****/*
 who knew that a USA made GE from the 60's would be so good. Read everything about the Siemens above only subtract 1/2 star
  
*Russian Voskhod 6N23P - 1986 vintage - Made for medical use (red tip) - 1 star *
 Unlike some very good SOVTEK, SVETLANA and others that are sturdy and have a decent sound quality, these were as dull and lifeless as they come. The soundstage was narrow and flat (no depth). I really have nothing positive to say except I am glad I only paid $9.00 for a pair. I'll sell them for $7.00 - any takers ? LOL


----------



## teb1013

Nice comments arcorob. Your set up looks spectacular. Which Velleman amp is this? I couldn't find it on their site.


----------



## arcorob

teb1013 said:


> Nice comments arcorob. Your set up looks spectacular. Which Velleman amp is this? I couldn't find it on their site.


 

 Teb...Its the Velleman K4040. They don't offer it anymore...believe it or not, it was an intense KIT. It can still be found for sale in a few places....It was originally EL34 buy I replaced with GE 6L6GC's from 1961.
 https://www.tubedepot.com/products/velleman-k4040-stereo-vacuum-tube-amplifier-kit
  
 The assembly guide
 https://d1sjrnpi226dnf.cloudfront.net/spree/attached_files/Manual_K4040.pdf?1382030221
  
 Inside my Velleman - The LEDS behind the front panel let you BIAS each of the 8 power tubes - flip a dip switch, set the LED for green, move on to the next. VERY easy


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> Really hard to say. Let me explain...
> 
> My rig has been geared toward final. The phono stage and preamp are solid state and they exit via the Velleman tube amp. The Velleman is sweet and very much taliorable by the swapping of 12AX7 input tubes (Mullard, RCA, GE, Sylvania) all unique.
> 
> ...


*

 Interesting ..little mixed reaction in this one from the other reviews ,makes me thing that combining Aune T1 with another preamp  can make some tubes shine more then others ,as for Amperex I would agree that it can give to much bass,for me it's little to juicy/boomy 
 Thank you for the review
  
 Can someone recommend tube amp that will compliment Aune T1 ?,I'm looking at DarkVoice 336SE and since it uses other tubes how would this affect the Aune ? I want some more options to choose from  
 Thanks  
*


----------



## arcorob

You will always have that balancing act of tubes on tubes..but here is a good rules to follow,
  
 If you are set with one piece of gear..your tubes give you the exact balance, then it is easier to add something else that is tube driven and balance out.
  
 So for example, if you have a system (tube) and it is perfect to you, top to bottom, but you add an AUNE and it is a bit bright, then the answer is to get a less bright tube, In my case, the 6922EH leaned toward bright, the orange globe Amperex, bass heavy (boomy)...The GE ..Perfect (or damn close..lol...still experimenting)
  
 But if you buy the AUNE and a tube headphone amp, balance is a harder task. Not impossible, just more difficult. 
  
 so a two tube head amps I like (way out of the price range
 http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/icon-audio-hp8-mk2-tube-headphone-amplifier
  
 http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/consonance-m10s-tube-integratedheadphone-amplifier
  
 This one is pretty cool too..
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivals-Single-ended-EL34-12AX7-Vacuum-Tube-Amplifier-with-Headphone-Amp-function-/350923470029?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item51b4ab34cd
  
 Now here is the deal...you blend your headphone amp with the AUNE..and it sounds a bit thin...is it the AUNE tube or the head amp input tubes ? You will figure it out, but you need a baseline.
  
 One option, get the headphone amp first and use a source such as CD that you love. SO when you have the sound you like, add the AUNE and you are either good, or need an AUNE tube change...
  
 Does this all make sense?


----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> *Vintage Amperex Tube 6GM8 / ECC86 - With Orange Globe and made in Herleen Holland - 1968 - 4 stars (or maybe 3.8 stars ?)* This is one of the holy grail tubes, hard to find with the globe in this setup. More often it has a bugle boy on it (not BUGLE BOY tubes..long story). They can be expensive and I snagged this for $14.99 It is a fine sounding tube, very holographic with nice highs and mids. It takes the edginess off that was present in the 6922EH but without being rolled off.* Bass is very deep...perhaps too deep. I could feel it which was nice but found myself wondering if it was a bit boomy. Certainly would not be describe as tight crisp bass. Sort of made me think my bottom end was replaced with some Cerwin Vega D9's. *From what I have heard so far..I would almost (and did) give it 4 stars but more listening with other types move it down to 3. So much for one of the better recommended. This is where system variations truly dictate what is good for whom


 
 For me it`s weird that you find Amperex 6GM8/ECC86 bass department "boomy" ...with my setup and tube (different code date) it`s certainly not boomy, if anything, it`s tinybit "recessed" but I think it comes from bass being more "present" with other tubes I have and it`s certainly tight imho. Dunno, I think setup just makes difference or different production date. Actually this case shows really well that there are many nuances and you can never count on somebody`s impressions 100%.
  
 Edit: Maybe someone wants to try this amp with Aune T1: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310557793652?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 
 Maybe going to buy it in future but not sure. Good thing is - it uses same tubes that Aune T1 does.


----------



## spacequeen7

> Does this all make sense?


 
 most of it ..except the price (no way I will spend G-note on tube amp-$300 max ) ,the Bravo V3 uses same type of tube wouldn't this be a better (cheaper ) option ?


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> ..., I think setup just makes difference or different production date. Actually this case shows really well that there are many nuances and you can never count on somebody`s impressions 100%.


 
 and that is 100% correct. If you listen to the world of 12AX7's, the RCA and GE triple mica blackplates, etc. and Telefunken are top of the pack. well, I have a very detailed system so the blackplates were a tad bright and their mids recessed. The Tele's were dull. The Mullards were sweet and my #2 choice, by the slimmest margin to the Sylvania 5751 Gold letter black plates, Top to bottom perfect and forward mids...a winner...LOL..But in another system might give someone the screaming mimi's...LOL
  
 Hey, your reviews as well as others are STILL helpful. You were not OFF on the Amperex assessment..it is a great tube..but the bottom on mine didn;t match. On another 9 out of 10 other systems, might be the holy grail...so that's why we post reviews...Oh crap...maybe I should not post mine,,,slew the curve...lol


----------



## robrob

I've been doing a lot of speaker amp to headphone stuff lately but a few days ago I listened to my T1 as a comparison with my 40 watt per channel tube speaker amp with and without a resistor network L-pad attenuator and the T1 is just such an awesome little DAC/amp. Someone mentioned the T1 not driving modified Fostex T50RPs very well but mine sound fantastic with the T1's gain switches in the mid position. My HE500s sound great too. You can't beat the bang-for-buck of the Aune T1.


----------



## Salvatore

arcorob said:


> *The Stock tube - 6922EH - New tube by Electro Harmonix - 3 1/2 stars (out of 5) [/B**]For a stock, new design tube, I have to say it has its merits. it has strong gain, very wide soundstage, brings the mid's into focus where they should be. The vocalist is present where they should be and clearly distinct in a 3D sort of way. The bottom is nice, not boomy but the top end, while detailed can be a bit fatiguing. I can say it is like an Audio Technica microline cart that hasn't broken in yet. Vaguely bordering on sibilant in that high upper range - not quite getting there but you almost expect it. For a stock new issue tube, not bad.
> 
> Russian Voskhod 6N23P - 1986 vintage - Made for medical use (red tip) - 1 star Unlike some very good SOVTEK, SVETLANA and others that are sturdy and have a decent sound quality, these were as dull and lifeless as they come. The soundstage was narrow and flat (no depth). I really have nothing positive to say except I am glad I only paid $9.00 for a pair. I'll sell them for $7.00 - any takers ? LOL
> 
> ...


 
  
 Very nice post. I added this to the info page. If you ever review more tubes remember to update this post also.


----------



## BenWaB3

arcorob said:


> In one word "Yes". It does deliver a tube sound.
> 
> First. It is a SS amp and a SS DAC. A tube DAC would be the size of a bus. So all the solid state stuff does its job but exiting the DAC it uses the 6DJ8/6922 tube as a buffer and that is where the "tubey" sound comes from. As Coil pointed out, this is clearly evidenced by tube rolling. I myself in less than a week have tried 4 tubes, each distinctly unique in its presentation.
> 
> ...


----------



## arcorob

Ben,
yes. As long as u USB in. Then it is USB to dac to tube to headphone amp.


----------



## arcorob

Salvatore, thank you. I will have two more soon !


----------



## BenWaB3

Thanks Rob. That helps me feel more confident as I get closer to pulling the trigger on this unit. Now back to page 73 
  
 Ben


----------



## y0d4

coil said:


> For electronic, best tubes from my collection are Miniwatt-Dario ECC189 Chartres France (tightest bass & kick out of my tubes and same time goes very deep lows), JAN Sylvania 6922 green label (for EM with more acoustic elements + vocals), Amperex OG 6GM8/ECC86 orange/white prints (for atmospheric electronic music with large "endless" soundstage and 3D imaging) and also stock 6922EH tube is good if you like deep "flowing" bass and also large "sparkly" soundstage.
> 
> About Miniwatt-Dario ECC189... I shared a deal link to some ppl and isendono bought 3 of them with crazy good price. Hope he wrotes his impressions when he gets them and burns them in littlebit.
> 
> ...


 
 Hey CoiL, thank you for this, just confirm me all those laps are compatible with Aune?
 and can i damage DAC if i put wrong lamp (which is not compatible with him) ? 

 And spacequeen7 thank to you, i will order and this lamp (i think at the end will have bunch of lamps, until i find what i am looking for... )

 thank you.


----------



## arcorob

y0d4 said:


> Hey CoiL, thank you for this, just confirm me all those laps are compatible with Aune?
> and can i damage DAC if i put wrong lamp (which is not compatible with him) ?
> 
> And spacequeen7 thank to you, i will order and this lamp (i think at the end will have bunch of lamps, until i find what i am looking for... )
> ...


 

 Yod4..Didn;t you fight superman ? LOL
  
 If you are ever not sure, just check back here on the compatibility page.
  
 Courtesy of COIL -
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502453


----------



## MrEleventy

arcorob said:


> You will always have that balancing act of tubes on tubes..but here is a good rules to follow,
> 
> If you are set with one piece of gear..your tubes give you the exact balance, then it is easier to add something else that is tube driven and balance out.
> 
> ...


+1, I went down a similar path except the other way around. I found a dac/source that I was happy with first and amp rolled. I tried E10, E17, ELE, T1, and Modi. Chose the T1 and rolled a O2, E17, Magni, Tubemagic A1 and Darkvoic 336. I'm tempted to give the ODac, stoner and hifimediy sabre a shot but I don't think I'll be swapping out the T1 anytime soon unless I spend $500+. Ultimately, I want to get an audio-gd 11.32/15.32 or Tubemagic D2 for home use. It's tough to have a T1 as a home dac with a 3 y/o running around.


----------



## icecap

> Originally Posted by *arcorob* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> This one is pretty cool too..
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivals-Single-ended-EL34-12AX7-Vacuum-Tube-Amplifier-with-Headphone-Amp-function-/350923470029?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item51b4ab34cd


 
 just a heads up, this amp uses 6H8C = 6N8P = 6SN7.. 12AX7 is not a direct replacement for this tube series without a socket converter and mod to the circuit inside..


----------



## spacequeen7

y0d4 said:


> Hey CoiL, thank you for this, just confirm me all those laps are compatible with Aune?
> and can i damage DAC if i put wrong lamp (which is not compatible with him) ?
> 
> And spacequeen7 thank to you, i will order and this lamp (i think at the end will have bunch of lamps, until i find what i am looking for... )
> ...


 
 just for the reference ,this is the tube I was talking about 
  

  
 also mentioned here
  
http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/3030#post_9899215


----------



## MrEleventy

spacequeen7 said:


> Interesting ..little mixed reaction in this one from the other reviews ,makes me thing that combining Aune T1 with another preamp  can make some tubes shine more then others ,as for Amperex I would agree that it can give to much bass,for me it's little to juicy/boomy
> Thank you for the review
> 
> Can someone recommend tube amp that will compliment Aune T1 ?,I'm looking at DarkVoice 336SE and since it uses other tubes how would this affect the Aune ? I want some more options to choose from
> Thanks


What arco said. And If you're wondering how the 336 performs check out Headfonia for a review and maybe the threads here, although they're pretty dead these days. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. I'll try my best to answer.


----------



## arcorob

MrEleventy...Yes, it can be QUITE a journey when finding the RIGHT tubes...
  
 I started with a handicap in that I bought my Velleman used for 1/4 of the price. It had a series of Reflektor Plant EL34's...some new type 12AX7's and a NOS 12AU7.
  
 It also had a HUM in one channel and a buzz in the other ...ARGGGG...It took two months and some assistance form friendly experts. Change around of some resistor values, etc. Resolder some points and better ground grounding. Then figured out (no one had before) why these units had a tendency to BURN out EL34's. Turns out the 6.4VAC voltage from the trannie was really putting out 7.6VAC  !!! YIkes. Small resistor and she is at 6.5 each channel.
  
 Then the 6L6GC tubes. That part was easy. It was finding the right Input tubes....
  
 So the moral is...Anything with a tube is going to be a lovely journey in getting the right music "color"...LOL


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> So the moral is...Anything with a tube is going to be a lovely journey in getting the right music "color"...LOL


 
  
  
 That's part of what makes tubes fun.


----------



## MrEleventy

arcorob said:


> MrEleventy...Yes, it can be QUITE a journey when finding the RIGHT tubes...
> 
> I started with a handicap in that I bought my Velleman used for 1/4 of the price. It had a series of Reflektor Plant EL34's...some new type 12AX7's and a NOS 12AU7.
> 
> ...







mhamel said:


> That's part of what makes tubes fun.




+1, Couldn't agree more. 

Although... the misses isn't having any fun whatsoever.


----------



## arcorob

mreleventy said:


> +1, Couldn't agree more.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Yeah...If mine ever sells my stuff for what I SAID I paid, I am a goner..


----------



## CoiL

Guys & girls... anybody has any idea how much heater current (mA) will Aune T1 be able to feed? PCC88/PCC189/ECC189 and even PCC85 seem to work despite higher heater voltage required (not in case of Aune tube buffer) but can it handle tubes with little higher heater current like *E*CC85 (~435mA, 6.3V) ? Is it depending on components inside T1 or power brick able to feed higher currents?


----------



## Deicide3

guys,
 how do i install the aune on Xubuntu?, i've checked google and this thread and found nothing.


----------



## HeavenNotes

salvatore said:


> Aune T1 manual:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## exSpire

Hello everyone,
  
 I'm before a purchase of headphones and a DAC\Amp. It seems that I'll be going the Aune T1 route and I had a question about it.
 This will be my first DAC\Amp and so I'm a bit of a newbie.
 My main use will be music but I'll also be watching movies (DD\DTS) and playing games.
 I read here and there that its possible to hook up a DAC to a regular soundcard and basically allow the use of the soundcard's DSP (and thus allow DTS and whatnot).

 Can someone explain? Is it possible with the Aune T1, and if so, what cable is needed?
  
 Also regardless, how's the Aune T1 with the Fidelio X1\DT880 Pro 250Ohm\Q701? I'm contemplating between the three.
  
 Thanks and sorry for my English.


----------



## mhamel

coil said:


> Guys & girls... anybody has any idea how much heater current (mA) will Aune T1 be able to feed? PCC88/PCC189/ECC189 and even PCC85 seem to work despite higher heater voltage required (not in case of Aune tube buffer) but can it handle tubes with little higher heater current like *E*CC85 (~435mA, 6.3V) ? Is it depending on components inside T1 or power brick able to feed higher currents?


 
  
 Coil,
  
 It will handle some higher current tubes, others don't seem to work well.  It's been hit or miss.  Some ECC85 and PCC85 will work, others won't.   I've got several different types of PCC85 (9AQ8) here and only a few of them work well, including early 70s herleen manufactured Amperex, RTC, Philips and Mullard.   The Tungsram, Zaerix (no easily identifiable mfg), and a few others did not.   I've got some very early production Telefunken (Germany) and Mullard (Blackburn) 9AQ8s that I have not yet tried.
  
 I haven't been able to track down any specs that list the maximum mA it can handle.   Since all three sections are powered from the same 15-0-15 VAC input, I've thought about pulling the amp board to see if it frees up more input power for the tube heater circuit. 
  
     -Mike


----------



## pat1984

Okay so I got my Aune T1 today. Brought it home, put in the tube and connected to the power. The power was cutting on and off so I fiddled with the power connector and it became stable. After running for about 15 mins, the amp became very hot, and then suddenly fumes started coming out of it. I immediately disconnected it and since then nothing, won't even turn on any more. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I am sending it back for a replacement. Has anyone else had this happen? Am I doing anything wrong? Any suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks...


----------



## CoiL

Did you buy 110V or 220V version? Did you open power connector and check for loose wires or just fiddled with it? It`s never good idea just "fiddling" with those wires that can`t make proper connection, shorts & problems are fast to come. I don`t remember if Aune T1 had fuse inside it but power plug should also have fuse (at least UK version has), maybe it`s blown? Or maybe your tube was faulty and that`s why Aune switched it automatically on-off and trying to protect itself? Anyway, hope your unit will get replaced and everything turns out ok.


mhamel said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Guys & girls... anybody has any idea how much heater current (mA) will Aune T1 be able to feed? PCC88/PCC189/ECC189 and even PCC85 seem to work despite higher heater voltage required (not in case of Aune tube buffer) but can it handle tubes with little higher heater current like *E*CC85 (~435mA, 6.3V) ? Is it depending on components inside T1 or power brick able to feed higher currents?
> ...


 
 I have some PCC85 and PCC189 incoming soon. Hope those PCC85 will work. Is it possible to measure mA output from tube pins when it`s turned on? And another idea was that maybe there`s possibility to add additional power to tube from the pins? These are just stupid ideas maybe, sry, I`m not electronics expert ;D


----------



## arcorob

pat1984 said:


> Okay so I got my Aune T1 today. Brought it home, put in the tube and connected to the power. The power was cutting on and off so I fiddled with the power connector and it became stable. After running for about 15 mins, the amp became very hot, and then suddenly fumes started coming out of it. I immediately disconnected it and since then nothing, won't even turn on any more.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 A few questions
 Was it the newer 6922 tube amp or 6811?
  
 where did you purchase it from ?
  
 Why did you have to fiddle with the power connector, was it loose ? or did it fee like a broken cable end (where the inside of the end my be shorted? )
  
 What was connected to it besides power?
  
 Was it the original tube?
  
 Let us know...I have not heard of this and don't know about others but after hours and hours, mine gets minor warm, never hot which surprised me with the tube..


----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> Was it the newer 6922 tube amp or *6811* ?


 
 6811 ? Enlighten me please! Did you mean 6N11 tube version?


----------



## teb1013

pat1984 said:


> Okay so I got my Aune T1 today. Brought it home, put in the tube and connected to the power. The power was cutting on and off so I fiddled with the power connector and it became stable. After running for about 15 mins, the amp became very hot, and then suddenly fumes started coming out of it. I immediately disconnected it and since then nothing, won't even turn on any more. :mad: I am sending it back for a replacement. Has anyone else had this happen? Am I doing anything wrong? Any suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks...




You are running off of US current so having the wrong transformer (ie 220 volt) doesn't sound like the problem. My guess is a defective power brick allowed too much voltage which fried the unit. I hope your replacement comes quickly.


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> 6811 ? Enlighten me please! Did you mean 6N11 tube version?


 

 Geeze...Guys is not allowed a typo...LOL
  
 Yes, I meant 6N11...


----------



## pat1984

Thanks everyone for the replies. Here are the answers to some of the questions you asked.
  
 Firstly, I was using a 110 V power adapter which was included in the package. 
  
 Quote:


arcorob said:


> A few questions
> Was it the newer 6922 tube amp or 6811?
> 
> *It had the newer 6922 tubes.*
> ...


 
 I have sent it back to amazon. They could only give e a refund. So I have ordered another one. Hope this one works....


----------



## arcorob

Strange...When I look at amazon, it says AMAZON prime - ~~Sold by SHENZHENAUDIO and Fulfilled by amazon
  
 Usually the can do an exchange
  
 Hmmm...
 http://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Upgrade-Version-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QJMRY


----------



## arcorob

YIKE...cancel that one if you are paying $189...
 http://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Upgrade-Version-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QJMRY/ref=sr_1_17?m=A00433442FV6PCYF2IT64&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1388776714&sr=1-17
  
 Same one as that is $159 on amazon....I posted the link before


----------



## manishex

I ordered the upgrade version, would this compliment the hd598 well? Otherwise which tube should i get, something that brings out the bass perhaps?


----------



## pat1984

The Javafly price seems to have gone up. When I bought it last saturday, it was $159. Anyway the new one I ordered is through global cyber mart.
  
http://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Upgrade-Version-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QJMRY


----------



## spacequeen7

can someone tell me little more  (year )about the tube on the left ,it has this metal bend inside "A6 9C" _(*SIEMENS E88CC 6922 RODE K2 MIC )*_
 this one have single support thin halo getter in comparison to A-frame solid/flat disc next to it (both made by Valvola /both have pinched top) it's also little taller


----------



## teb1013

manishex said:


> I ordered the upgrade version, would this compliment the hd598 well? Otherwise which tube should i get, something that brings out the bass perhaps?




I got mine from Pennybuying through Amazon. I ordered the basic but it came with the so-called upgraded 6922 tube. I have the HD558 which uses the same driver as the 598 and the 6922 was good as a starter. You can't really appreciate other tubes unless you have a base to start from. The HD5xx series are open and will never be basshead phones, but I find them to give a good natural bass sound with the Amperex 7308, at least with the music I listen to, acoustic, classical, jazz, classic rock. Your tastes (and ears) may differ. You can check the thread starter and the posts of Salvatore and CoiL for good info on tube selection with different types of music.


----------



## arcorob

Cool...did not want to see you get gouged for $30 ...Good luck this time...!


----------



## manishex

The cheapest I found for a pair of the Amperex 7308 was $120 http://www.ebay.com/itm/121240558193 will look at it in the future, quality comes with price. Also what gain settings do you use with your hd558? +10db seems alot. 

How comes on Amazon. Com it's $159 and over here in the UK it's 125 cheapest :s and that's from china so add vat and customs charge


----------



## teb1013

manishex said:


> The cheapest I found for a pair of the Amperex 7308 was $120 http://www.ebay.com/itm/121240558193 will look at it in the future, quality comes with price. Also what gain settings do you use with your hd558? +10db seems alot.
> 
> How comes on Amazon. Com it's $159 and over here in the UK it's 125 cheapest :s and that's from china so add vat and customs charge




Upscale Audio sells this tube for $50 driver grade (which works great with the T1 which uses the tube as a buffer). Unfortunately, I understand that UA is absurdly expensive for non-US orders. Once again I would check out the 6922s first to see if you like them. Then roll in some of the budget recommendations on this thread to see how they affect the sound. CoiL has many interesting reviews of lower cost tubes. Also look at Salvatore's posts and Joeq70s. The trick of tube rolling isn't to go and buy a high cost tube but to find synergy with the type of music you like and your headphones. Most of all enjoy the music, and have fun!


----------



## manishex

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amperex-6GM8-ECC86-Bugle-Boy-Vacuum-Tube-Made-in-W-Germany-/251388342987?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3a87e9b2cb

Someone mentioned that these sound similar to the 7308, but have different grades? Would these Amperex-6GM8-ECC86 be worth buying for $24.thanks for the quick reply!


----------



## exSpire

Hey guys..
 For $10 is it worth it to get the upgraded version? (6922 over the 6N11)
 How about for $20? (I'm still not sure what seller I'll be going for on eBay)
  
 Thanks


----------



## arcorob

yes..get the upgraded
  
 Order from amazon, not ebay
  
 I went with this PRIME seller...fast and sure
  
 http://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Upgrade-Version-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QJMRY/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2Q0JVLI22BSVA&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1388801601&sr=1-1


----------



## CoiL

6922EH is definitely better than 6N11 but is it worth 10$ or even 20$ ? Imho no. Instead get some NOS tube from eBay.
 What headphones are you using? 
 What music do you mainly listen?
 What sound are you looking for - "flat" sounding, intimate & warm, large soundstage or bass "boosting" etc. ? 
 What is your budget?
 Are you going to tube roll more?
  
 Clear those things out for yourself and use thread search tool of 1st post useful info!
  


teb1013 said:


> manishex said:
> 
> 
> > The cheapest I found for a pair of the Amperex 7308 was $120 http://www.ebay.com/itm/121240558193 will look at it in the future, quality comes with price. Also what gain settings do you use with your hd558? +10db seems alot.
> ...


  
 All has been said! nothing much to add. Make some things clear about tubes and their factory codes etc. and then ask. Most active members in this thread can`t and won`t do everything for you. You must do your own research and find what you are looking for.
 There are lots of info, just start reading


----------



## lwrs10

Ok. I by accident found a tube that sounds leaps and bounds better than any other tube I have tried in this thing. And I have tried quite a few. All the normal ones everyone is trying here.....
  
 I was digging around in my "tube room" and found some tubes that no longer had any labels on them, and after looking the pinout up determined it was the same as a 6DJ8, but the plate structure was quite different. I said what the hell and threw one in my Aune. And holy hell, what a glorious sound. Every single thing about this tube was on another level over the Amperex 7308, Bugle Boy 6DJ8, etc etc. 
  
 Only markings on them were a capital R, and a 7....both between the pins. It also had the tale tell signs of Mullard on it....the 2 lines on the top from the point. After some research I was able to determine it is in fact a Mullard, but still not what tube it is.
  
 It took me a few days to figure out what this tube was, but with the help of others finally nailed it. Its an ECC85/6AQ8. I have not looked up exactly how compatible it is yet, but I have been using it for 3 days now with no issues. 
  
  
  
 So if anyone else wants to give it a shot, buy a Mullard ECC85 off the 'bay. You will not be disappointed. 
  
  
  
 Here are some pics of 2 different ECC85's I have tried so far. A mid 60's Siemens and this Mullard. Both sound great, with a slight edge to the Mullard.


----------



## CoiL

Mmmmm`kay... seems that ECC85 is going to be on my list! ;P But please keep using them for little longer so we can see if your unit dies or not! ;D
 ECC85 requirements are little higher @ mA - ~435mA for heater plate current. But Heater plate voltage is spot-on 6.3V.


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Mmmmm`kay... seems that ECC85 is going to be on my list! ;P But please keep using them for little longer so we can see if your unit dies or not! ;D
> ECC85 requirements are little higher @ mA - ~435mA for heater plate current. But Heater plate voltage is spot-on 6.3V.


 
  
 I have a good 200 of them right here....You pay shipping.....


----------



## CoiL

Can you maybe describe more what`s exactly is better than Amperex 7308 about this Mullard ECC85 tube? Maybe it is better only for your taste/cans/music combination?


----------



## exSpire

coil said:


> 6922EH is definitely better than 6N11 but is it worth 10$ or even 20$ ? Imho no. Instead get some NOS tube from eBay.
> What headphones are you using?
> What music do you mainly listen?
> What sound are you looking for - "flat" sounding, intimate & warm, large soundstage or bass "boosting" etc. ?
> ...


 
  
 Thanks.
 I'm using the AD700 but this is going to be my very first Amp\DAC and I'm also purchasing new heaphones. Still haven't made my mind about the phones, debating whether to risk no comfort with the Q701 or go with the lower risk DT880 (I did read a lot around here and found good feedback about the Aune T1 with each of those). Regardless of that I'll also be purchasing the MDR-MA900. And.. later on I'll get some closed-back phones.
 I was actually contemplating about grabbing the Audinst HUD-mx2 but I really liked the idea of tubes and their versatility.
 So I'm not exactly in need of a tube recommendation for some specific needs but just a good one overall and later on I'll definitely want to grab some tubes to play around with.
 I guess that if there aren't better all-around starting tubes for $20-30 then I'll go with the 6922 or the 6N11.
  
 The NOS Tube, can you be more specific?


----------



## CoiL

NOS means New Old Stock. And for 20-30$ I would certainly go for Amperex OG (OG means orange globe logo) 6DJ8 from eBay. Or some other tube that is recommended by DT-880 users.


----------



## Tristan944

Its crazy how with the Aune T1 and my Sennheiser HD598 even 320kpbs song files sound muffled. Amazing gear.


----------



## CoiL

Muffled? in a bad way?


----------



## exSpire

coil said:


> NOS means New Old Stock. And for 20-30$ I would certainly go for Amperex OG (OG means orange globe logo) 6DJ8 from eBay. Or some other tube that is recommended by DT-880 users.


 
 Like so?
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radio-Tubes-6DJ8-ECC88-Amperex-Test-110-115-/350639692868?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item51a3c11c44
 *fixed


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Can you maybe describe more what`s exactly is better than Amperex 7308 about this Mullard ECC85 tube? Maybe it is better only for your taste/cans/music combination?




It has more detail, a bigger soundstage, a more airy, and a slightly warmer sound. The treble is smoother while still being more detailed. the bass is cleaner and tighter, while not losing any presence. Guitars really sound bigger with this ECC85.

For me there was not a single tradeoff. I also hardly ever use my Aune with headphones, all of this was in my main system. I can dig my cans out when I get home if you would like.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## arcorob

Quote: 





lwrs10 said:


> Ok. I by accident found a tube that sounds leaps and bounds better than any other tube I have tried in this thing. And I have tried quite a few. All the normal ones everyone is trying here.....
> 
> 
> So if anyone else wants to give it a shot, buy a Mullard ECC85 off the 'bay. You will not be disappointed.
> ...


 

 They might work but different specs...someone who knows the electrical better than me should look at these - They have the same pinout but ~~ECC85 pulls more heater current, and is meant for higher anode voltages - . I am not saying its wrong and you have been running it for 3 days but would hate to see a puff of smoke, flames, etc....
  
*ECC88*
  

  
*ECC85*


----------



## lwrs10

I will pull my Aune apart and see how the circuit is loaded and designed. This will tell me if it can handle the extra heater current. The extra Mu doesn't seem to matter much, as it sounds fantastic. The higher plate(anode) voltage does not matter at all on the Aune side, only matters on the tube side and it seems to work fine on the lower voltage. I will check and see how the grid/cathode is loaded also. Seems the Aune might not be optimised for the 6922 anyways.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## Tristan944

coil said:


> Muffled? in a bad way?


 
 Yes. I guess it doesn't sound muffled, it's just that one can clearly hear the audio quality difference between 320 and FLAC with this set up.


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> They might work but different specs...someone who knows the electrical better than me should look at these - They have the same pinout but ~~ECC85 pulls more heater current, and is meant for higher anode voltages - . I am not saying its wrong and you have been running it for 3 days but would hate to see a puff of smoke, flames, etc....


 
  
 Generally, if the heater circuit can handle the extra draw, it is ok to sub an ECC85/6AQ8 for a 6DJ8.   I've got some that run well in my Aune and others that don't quite play well.   I also run them in my Lyr at times.
  
    -Mike


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> I will pull my Aune apart and see how the circuit is loaded and designed. This will tell me if it can handle the extra heater current. The extra Mu doesn't seem to matter much, as it sounds fantastic. The higher plate(anode) voltage does not matter at all on the Aune side, only matters on the tube side and it seems to work fine on the lower voltage. I will check and see how the grid/cathode is loaded also. Seems the Aune might not be optimised for the 6922 anyways.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


 

 It is probably not an issue since the ECC85 was made for higher voltage...but you would know better than I would especially regarding the heater current...if anything it probably just under drives the tube but sounds great ..am I wrong ? Does the unit put out higher heater voltage than the ECC85 is used to ?


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> It is probably not an issue since the ECC85 was made for higher voltage...but you would know better than I would especially regarding the heater current...if anything it probably just under drives the tube but sounds great ..am I wrong ? Does the unit put out higher heater voltage than the ECC85 is used to ?


 
  
  
 IIRC, the Russian 6HN1(6N1) everyone uses draws more than the ECC85. Don't quote me yet, I have to look that up. 
  
 Under driving the tube would not be the correct term to use. Think of it as the plate voltage can be up to a certain voltage...it can be lower. Heater voltage would not change, just the current draw the Aune sees.
  
 *EDIT*
  
 The 6N1P draws 600ma on the heater circuit, more than the ECC85/6AQ8. So we are good there.
  
 *EDIT EDIT*
  
 Might want to explore the 6DT8 tube also. Let me see if I have any around....


----------



## Tristan944

Is it true that touching a broken tube can kill a person? Due to the volts or amps or something.


----------



## lwrs10

tristan944 said:


> Is it true that touching a broken tube can kill a person? Due to the volts or amps or something.


 
  
  
 What? Why would you ever use a broken tube first, and second, why the hell would you want to touch it?  Driver tubes will hurt.....bigger final output tubes will KILL you.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10..TROUBLE MAKER !!! Sure, now you have to go an introduce a whole new line so guys with OCD like me have to buy more !!! LOL
  
 Just bought one on a hunch...about sound that is...


----------



## icecap

spacequeen7 said:


> can someone tell me little more  (year )about the tube on the left ,it has this metal bend inside "A6 9C" _(*SIEMENS E88CC 6922 RODE K2 MIC )*_
> this one have single support thin halo getter in comparison to A-frame solid/flat disc next to it (both made by Valvola /both have pinched top) it's also little taller


 
 spacequeen7, you can see more from this page onwards at tubemongerlib for the variations of Siemens E88CC tubes: http://www.tubemongerlib.com/gallery2/v/6922/?g2_page=8
  
 can't really see the presence of the logo from the one you show, seems likely to be from the 80s.. quoted from quartz acoustic product info: _"As the appearances of Siemens E88CC tubes underwent some significant changes through the production dates, one identifiable trait is the presence of the old Siemens logo on the tube itself. 80s, and even some later 70s productions have no such logo."_
  
 here is a pic from the Siemens I had.. it is an A-frame variant..
  

  
 not sure how different the tube you shown is different from mine.. but you can see more of my impressions at post #3667.. I really like this tube now especially I have added a modded Fostex T50rp to my inventory.. the absolute details and spaciousness drawn from the tube really complement the ortho very very well...


----------



## exSpire

I'd like to ask if you guys don't mind, before I'm purchasing the Aune T1.
  
 Without any regard to cost, would the Aune T1 be a better choice over the Audinst HUD-mx2?
 The Audinst HUD-mx2 is similar to the ODAC+O2 combo:
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/684861/audinst-hud-mx2-vs-odac-o2-vs-graham-slee-bitzie-a-few-portable-dac-amps
  
 Thanks


----------



## CoiL

exspire said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > NOS means New Old Stock. And for 20-30$ I would certainly go for Amperex OG (OG means orange globe logo) 6DJ8 from eBay. Or some other tube that is recommended by DT-880 users.
> ...


 
 That`s fake amperex!


----------



## exSpire

coil said:


> That`s fake amperex!


 
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-Amperex-Holland-6DJ8-ECC88-Gray-Plate-Top-O-Tube-82-80-/121244596138?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item1c3abdb7aa
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-Amperex-Holland-6DJ8-ECC88-Grey-Plate-Top-O-Tube-77-84-/151199650219?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item23343391ab
 ?


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> arcorob said:
> 
> 
> > It is probably not an issue since the ECC85 was made for higher voltage...but you would know better than I would especially regarding the heater current...if anything it probably just under drives the tube but sounds great ..am I wrong ? Does the unit put out higher heater voltage than the ECC85 is used to ?
> ...


 
 Wouldn`t say so. Only few ppl have them here with Aune T1 and someone had poor distorted sound with his NOS 6N1P tube.
 6N23P / 6N27P are drawing around 310-330mA current and and all those different tube types I have are around that. Tube with highest current I have is ECC189 which is around 365mA. Also ECC88 seems to be 365mA actually. Would be interesting to get answer from superlux about how much mA Aune T1 can handle.
  
 Just heads up, wouldn`t be sure about those noticeable higher currents because it might work ok but it puts higher drain on Aune T1 and might eventually kill some internal components. But so far I haven`t had any problems with my ECC189 and ECC85 is by numbers only ~70mA higher though, it might be just the "limit" for Aune.
 Who knows, just be warned. I won`t add this tube type to my tube list yet because we need more information. 
  
 Also about Mullard ECC85 sounding better than Amperex 7308 - it`s totally subjective and may not be the case with everybody.


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Wouldn`t say so. Only few ppl have them here with Aune T1 and someone had poor distorted sound with his NOS 6N1P tube.
> 6N23P / 6N27P are drawing around 310-330mA current and and all those different tube types I have are around that. Tube with highest current I have is ECC189 which is around 365mA. Also ECC88 seems to be 365mA actually. Would be interesting to get answer from superlux about how much mA Aune T1 can handle.
> 
> Just heads up, wouldn`t be sure about those noticeable higher currents because it might work ok but it puts higher drain on Aune T1 and might eventually kill some internal components. But so far I haven`t had any problems with my ECC189 and ECC85 is by numbers only ~70mA higher though, it might be just the "limit" for Aune.
> ...


 
  
  
 I think you missed the point. The original tube offered in the Aune was a Chinese 6N1P, which has a current draw of 600ma on the heater circuit. If you want to compare specs, the ECC85 is actually closer to the Chinese 6N1P than the 6922 is. 
  
http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/095/6/6N1.pdf
  
  
 Long story short, the ECC85 draws LESS current than the tube these came with at first.....the Chinese 6N1P.  The ECC85 is not going to hurt a thing. 
  
  
 And I agree about the sound....everyones ears.....taste.....and needs are different. To me, on my setup, it sounds better. Hows that?


----------



## isendono

DD , now I really really want to get some mullard ecc85 , but I'm going for a trip for a month


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Wouldn`t say so. Only few ppl have them here with Aune T1 and someone had poor distorted sound with his NOS 6N1P tube.
> ...


 
 You are wrong. Original stock Chinese tube is *6N11* and it has current draw *340mA *and 6.3V plate voltage.
*6N11* is direct equivalent to russian *6N23P* which also has current ~330mA.
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/9642/6n11.png
  
 6N1P is russian tube and someone here bought it as cheap substitute to stock tube and it had bad distorted sound!
6N1P is NOT recommended tube for Aune T1.


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> You are wrong. Original stock Chinese tube is *6N11* and it has current draw *340mA *and 6.3V plate voltage.
> http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/9642/6n11.png
> 
> 6N1P is russian tube and someone here bought it as cheap substitute to stock tube and it had bad distorted sound.
> 6N1P is NOT recommended tube for Aune T1.


 
  
  
 The person who bought and tried the Russian Rocket 6N1P was me. Wayyyyyy back towards the front of this thread. It was not distorted, the tube was bad.....one sides gain was low. Since then I have swapped quite a few Russian 6N1P's in there and have been using them for months. I like them with heavy guitar stuff.....like metal. So when I want to hear some metal, I have been throwing in the Rusky. 
  
 So there is months of using a tube with a draw of 600ma on the heater circuit in my Aune.


----------



## CoiL

Ok, now everything clears out - ECC85 seems to be suitable tube for Aune T1  But don`t accuse me if it will kill someones Aune T1. Just be warned. Going to try one ECC85 myself maybe. Trying to get that Mullard ECC85 since lwrs10 rated it better than 7308.


----------



## lwrs10

Make sure you get the exact same one i have. I can verify it for you before you buy if you want.
  
 Make sure it is made in the Blackburn plant, has copper grid rods, round getter, and the plates have 2 round holes on the sides.


----------



## CoiL

Updated tube list! 


coil said:


> *6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, **6N27P,** 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
> *E188CC, **ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV2493, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, *
> *CV5358, M3624, CV4108, CV5331, CV5464, CV5472, CV8065, CV9838, CV10320, CV10403*
> *6FW8, **ECC85, 6AQ8, **PCC85 & 9AQ8 *(some PCC85/9AQ8 may sound distorted due to underpowered 9V heater).
> ...


 
  
 Now, anyone going to try 6DT8? ;D This is crazy - so much tube types to choose & buy! Aune T1 rocks! ;P
  
 EDIT: Seems that *6BQ7A / 6BZ7 / 6BS8* (400mA / 6.3V) should also be compatible! Can somebody try and confirm?


----------



## lwrs10

Well the 6H30P also looks compatible.....but the 825ma heater draw might be too much. Time to take apart my Aune and see how much it can handle.....


----------



## mhamel

It probably wouldn't be too difficult to put together a socket adapter with its own heater supply, it could even be selectable for 6.3, 7, 9 or 12.6v. If nothing else it would be fun to play around with.


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> Well the 6H30P also looks compatible.....but the 825ma heater draw might be too much. Time to take apart my Aune and see how much it can handle.....


 
 Curiously waiting for pics and measurement results. Do you have *6BQ7A / 6BZ7 / 6BS8 *tubes to try? Keep us updated!


----------



## mhamel

6BZ7, 6BQ7A, 6BS8 all work. 

Another one, too... 6BK7B has a higher heater current draw, some work, some don't. I've tested RCA, Tung Sol, Westinghouse and GE. All but the GE worked. It was not just a bad tube with the GE as I have over 50 of them and tested multiple. 

 -Mike


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Make sure you get the exact same one i have. I can verify it for you before you buy if you want.
> 
> Make sure it is made in the Blackburn plant, has copper grid rods, round getter, and the plates have 2 round holes on the sides.


 

 Yeah, I was looking at those...LOL..great ..ebay battle


----------



## arcorob

I win...$30..not too bad
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/130889991493?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## CoiL

mhamel said:


> 6BZ7, 6BQ7A, 6BS8 all work.
> 
> Another one, too... 6BK7B has a higher heater current draw, some work, some don't. I've tested RCA, Tung Sol, Westinghouse and GE. All but the GE worked. It was not just a bad tube with the GE as I have over 50 of them and tested multiple.
> 
> -Mike


 
 That`s interesting because 6BK7B requirements are 6.3V and current is *450mA*. Wonder why those GE tubes didn`t work, because as we know, ECC85 has *435mA* current draw, not much difference.
  
 Will add 6BZ7, 6BQ7A and 6BS8 to tube list. 
  


arcorob said:


> I win...$30..not too bad
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/130889991493?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


 
 LOL, couldn`t even see it @ eBay and it`s already gone! ;D Please give us impressions VS. Amperex 6GM8 & GE (Valvo) 6GM8. I`m really interested because Amperex 7308 has been quite a "reference high-end tube" until now and now Mullard ECC85 might even be better. I`m skeptic about it actually in terms of "holographic" sound.


----------



## lwrs10

Well Ill be damned......found a Valvo ECC85 in my pile......so far its the winner. But a few hundred more tubes to go!
  
  
 Next up is trying 10 or so different 6SN7's I have laying around with an adapter I have.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Well Ill be damned......found a Valvo ECC85 in my pile......so far its the winner. But a few hundred more tubes to go!
> 
> 
> Next up is trying 10 or so different 6SN7's I have laying around with an adapter I have.


 

 Listen guy..we can't afford you..you keep finding tubes and we keep buying...LOL. I though the two hole mullard was the winner ?


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10, sry if I`m skeptic but you are doing all this compare too fast and without proper analytical listening as I can see. Now Valvo ECC85 is winner - by what? 
 Please pick some out, take some time, choose lossless music from different genres and start comparing. Soundstage size, imaging, bass, mids, highs, transparency, separation etc.
 Make sure Amperex 7308 is one main competitor, since it`s been most recommended high-end tube for Aune T1, especially in terms of "holographic" sound. 
 I could also run through my tubes again fast and I`m sure with certain music genre (rock/metal for example) some tubes sound better than my top tubes. But is it better with other genres? And then there`s setup differences etc. 
 It`s good to know that there are many "new" types to try but I won`t rush into buying anything you say is better because I haven`t seen any analytical comparing by you. It`s like I suggested Amperex 6GM8 to acrorob but he found GE 6GM8 much better for him. Don`t take this bad way, just something to think about and how to be more informative to other members.


----------



## lwrs10

These are my initial impressions. Simple as that. After I get a group of the ones I liked the most after a couple songs, then they will be analysed deeper. I have hundreds of hours with my 7308 already, so I have been comparing everything it it.
  
  
 This is how I do things. I can usually immediately hear the differences between tube types/brands. Some more than others. I does not take me hours to decide on any piece of audio gear ever. 1-2 of my favorite songs is all it usually takes. I built my own tube amps in my main system, and have been through enough tubes in that. When you have a setup that is very resolving it does not take hours and hours and 20 of your favorite albums to decide.
  
  
 Now all that being said, I have different tubes for different styles of music too. 
  
 Metal: A nice crunchy very forward tube, like the Russian 6N1P or the 6N23
  
 Normal Rock: A very detailed slightly warm tube. I like the Amperex 7308 here. 
  
 Jazz: A detailed, neutral, wide, and deep soundstage tube. A NOS Genelex Gold Lion fit this bill.
  
  
  
 This is how I usually use my Aune. Now that these ECC85's have come to light, I get to redo all of my findings. Fine with me, means i get to listen to more music.
  
  
  
 Also, with a pile of 300 or so tubes here to try, where would I get the time?
  
  
  
 I am a busy bee already with these new tubes.....
  

  
  
  
 and I just found these.....Harmon Kardon labelled ECC85's by Amperex, but made in England? Know what that means???


----------



## arcorob

300 tubes..yeah..someone married the tube fairy...LOL
  
 Good deal.
  
 Actually have 4 tubes inbound. A Sylvania and a Mullard ECC88 and a Siemens GE and a Mullard ECC85.
  
 Like you I immediately pick up differences. I have some key tracks I play to test voice, depth, bass, mids, etc. sometimes it is harder than others if they are close and requires more in-depth (always do anyway) but sometimes it is extremely obvious if they don't really pass my initial test (like the VOKSHOD 6N23P which were really 6H23N)


----------



## CoiL

I did not mean that you have to take hours & days to compare but just... don`t rush  Will wait for more specific impressions about your new findings.
  
 It`s about taste also. For example, with metal music, foward sounding tube like 6N23P doesn`t like at all for me. Amperex OG 6DJ8 GAC & Ultron SQ PCC189 way better! Actually this - "A very detailed slightly warm tube. I like the Amperex 7308 here." fits for those tubes & my taste with metal/rock/progressive/jazz. Those two tubes have middle-sized soundstage, slightly smoothed highs, great bass & mids. Kind of sweetspot for me for those genres.


----------



## lwrs10

The top 20 of all these tubes will get a very detailed write up for you to decide from. I will not concentrate on what music I like them with, but will be about how it sounds to me.


----------



## CoiL

Ok. Do your impressions as you like. My method is usually like this - 1 song from at least 3-4 main different genres like EDM, rock/metal, jazz, classical - that way it would be more useful to everybody.
 And some songs are chosen specially for detecting soundstage size and imaging. That way I can give more accurate impressions for ppl with different music taste, though, my perspective is also subjective and setup different.
 Anyway, thanks for testing those "new" type tubes and keep us updated!


----------



## Salvatore

lwrs10 said:


> Normal Rock: A very detailed slightly warm tube. I like the Amperex 7308 here.
> 
> Jazz: A detailed, neutral, wide, and deep soundstage tube. A NOS Genelex Gold Lion fit this bill.


 
  
 Interesting. I think 7308 is perfect for jazz.
  


coil said:


> I did not mean that you have to take hours & days to compare but just... don`t rush  Will wait for more specific impressions about your new findings.


 
  
 I like his style. Discard the bad tubes and save the clearly better ones for more detailed review. Hasty impressions are one thing, but we're still waiting for you to do that summary review of your tubes. That would, no doubt, be the king of all tube reviews around here


----------



## CoiL

> Discard the bad tubes and save the clearly better ones for more detailed review.


 
 That`s the way to do it!
 I also have to revisit my tube review again sometime, but don`t know when because I have too many great sounding tubes and finding differences + judging by genre takes time that I just don`t have ;(
 But still, I know my favs with my setup with different genres and I dare to recommend them to others.


lwrs10 said:


> The top 20 of all these tubes will get a very detailed write up for you to decide from. I will not concentrate on what music I like them with, but will be about how it sounds to me.


 
 That would be awesome review! 


lwrs10 said:


> and I just found these.....Harmon Kardon labelled ECC85's by Amperex, but made in England? Know what that means???


 
 Those should be very rare I guess! Haven`t even seen any harman/kardon labeled tubes ;D


----------



## lwrs10

Well one of those Harmon Kardon ECC85's is bad.....damn. 
  
  
  
 Lets see what type of reaction this gets......


----------



## CoiL

This seems to be getting endless ;D Damn that little black money sucking box! ;D
  


mhamel said:


> 6BZ7, 6BQ7A, 6BS8 all work.


 
 Did you tested those types by yourself or was it just assumption by tube requirements? Asking because then I know if I will add them to "blue" tube list 
  


coil said:


> Tube types that will work with Aune T1:
> 
> *6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, **6N27P,** 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
> *E188CC, **ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV2493, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, *
> ...


----------



## andyhof

I've been lurking and reading and can't seem to find the answer to this:
  
 Does the volume knob on top control the RCA line output as well as the headphone output?


----------



## lwrs10

Well I'll be damned.....a 6SN7 actually WORKS!


----------



## CoiL

andyhof said:


> I've been lurking and reading and can't seem to find the answer to this:
> 
> Does the volume knob on top control the RCA line output as well as the headphone output?


 
 It does not control line out, only headphone jack out.
  


lwrs10 said:


> Well I'll be damned.....a 6SN7 actually WORKS!


 
 LOL! ;D But how does it sound? Good? Can you give us schematic for building that adapter? ;P


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> It does not control line out, only headphone jack out.
> 
> Do you accidentally have one of those laying around? -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Strong-RCA-Black-Plate-D-Getter-with-Foil-Strip-6BQ7A-Tube-/111035867145?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item19da40e009
> 
> ...


 
 Well the first 2 6SN7's honestly sounded kinda dull. They were Sylvania 6SN7GTB. Using a RCA ruby base 6SN7GT and now we are on the right track. Better, but there might be a bit of harshness on the top end. But this is also a NOS tube, so it might need some break-in.


----------



## CoiL

Oh my... you just opened up another "level" of Aune T1 ! Now we need schematic for building that adapter!!!


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Oh my... you just opened up another "level" of Aune T1 ! Now we need schematic for building that adapter!!!


 
  
  
 its very simple. Pin list is from the 6SN7...
  
  
 6SN7..6DJ8
 Pin 1 to 2
 Pin 2 to 1
 Pin 3 to 3
 Pin 4 to 7
 Pin 5 to 6
 Pin 6 to 8
 Pin 7 to 4
 Pin 8 to 5
  
 Pin 9 is not used.


----------



## CoiL

Thanks! Can`t wait to try this ;P Let us know when you find some good sounding 6SN7!
  
 Edit: Just for information 6SN7 is *6.3V / 600mA*


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Thanks! Can`t wait to try this ;P Let us know when you find some good sounding 6SN7!
> 
> Edit: Just for information 6SN7 is *6.3V / 600mA*


 
  
  
 Well, this RCA Ruby Base makes a clean electric guitar come out and dance on my desk. Still some treble issues.....but bass is great overall. 
  
  
 My next adventure is 12AT7, 12AU7, and maybe a 12AY7. Can't do a 12AX7 since the gain is too high. Only have to swap 2 wires to make the whole 12XX7 series work.


----------



## CoiL

Can you tell for what pin9 "internal shield" in case of 6DJ8 etc. is needed for? Isn`t it dangerous to "remove" that pin9 in case of 6SN7 > 6DJ8 adapter?
  


lwrs10 said:


> My next adventure is 12AT7, 12AU7, and maybe a 12AY7. Can't do a 12AX7 since the gain is too high. Only have to swap 2 wires to make the whole 12XX7 series work.


 
 Please be kind and give us pin-out "schematics" too for all of those types. I will later make proper schematics to everyone to try! There are many who would like to roll their 12XX7 series tubes!


----------



## spacequeen7

lwrs10 said:


> Well one of those Harmon Kardon ECC85's is bad.....damn.
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see what type of reaction this gets......


 
 I noticed your Aune is hooked up to another amp ,wouldn't this be little off for comparison since most will only use standalone T1 ?
  
 as for Harmon Kardon ECC85...there is a bunch on ebay


----------



## CoiL

That`s why I don`t stop repeating that there are many nuances that make tubes sound different to ppl.
 But atm I`m mostly interested just trying other "new" tube types with adapter rather than chasing tubes with little analytical comparing and only 1 user opinion (don`t take it bad way lwrs10). Your effort is highly appreciated by me & surely by others!


----------



## mhamel

[quote name="CoiL" url=""
Did you tested those types by yourself or was it just assumption by tube requirements? Asking because then I know if I will add them to "blue" tube list 
[/quote]

Yes, everything I've said will work comes after testing them myself. 

 -Mike


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Well, this RCA Ruby Base makes a clean electric guitar come out and dance on my desk. Still some treble issues.....but bass is great overall.
> 
> 
> My next adventure is 12AT7, 12AU7, and maybe a 12AY7. Can't do a 12AX7 since the gain is too high. Only have to swap 2 wires to make the whole 12XX7 series work.


 
 Well heck..I have been asking about this..I have a BUNCH of 12AU7's (and 12AX7's) but you say 2 wires need to be swapped? I though there was already an adapter somewhere on the bay ?


----------



## andyhof




----------



## andyhof

coil said:


> It does not control line out, only headphone jack out.


 
  
 Ok, thanks for that.
  
 Let me know how crazy this sounds to you guys:
  
 My current setup is:
  
 Dedicated computer loaded with FLAC and SHN music.
 M-audio Audiophile 2496 soundcard > Adcom GPT-350 preamp > DBX 234s crossover 
       out of the crossover:   Low - Polk Audio pwr subwoofers (L and R)
                                        Mid - Crest FA901 
                                        High- Ashly 1000M 
  
 I want to remove my Adcom solid state preamp as all of my music now comes from dedicated computer/hard drive.  It was good for 20 years but time to move up.
  
 I'd like to come out of the PC via usb to the Aune T1 and go straight into the DBX crossover but I can't control the volume from the Aune T1.
  
 How would you guys feel if I were to put a USB volume controller into the PC and have it control global audio settings out to the Aune ?
  
 something like the griffin powermate:  http://store.griffintechnology.com/powermate
  
  
 now I could control audio out to the Aune.  I could also assign other functions to the powermate (press to mute....etc)
  
 What do you think?  Other suggestions?


----------



## lwrs10

spacequeen7 said:


> I noticed your Aune is hooked up to another amp ,wouldn't this be little off for comparison since most will only use standalone T1 ?
> 
> as for Harmon Kardon ECC85...there is a bunch on ebay


 
  
  
 The fact that I am using speakers instead of headphones should not really matter. I am very familiar with how it sounds, so I can hear any change. Speakers will sometimes show more than headphones, and headphones will sometimes show more than speakers. I can very easily plug in some headphones I have and compare also, which I will do after all this initial impression stuff. 
  
  
  
 I am trying out an RCA JAN 5692 right now, which a military version of a 6SN7, and it sounds very nice. 
  
 Building the 12XX7 adapter right now to try out.


----------



## spacequeen7

lwrs10 said:


> The fact that I am using speakers instead of headphones should not really matter. I am very familiar with how it sounds, so I can hear any change. Speakers will sometimes show more than headphones, and headphones will sometimes show more than speakers. I can very easily plug in some headphones I have and compare also, which I will do after all this initial impression stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Thank you for doing this ,your socket mod looks wild


----------



## White Lotus

Dat socket mod. Prepare your inbox to be flooded.


----------



## lwrs10

First 12AT7 did not do so well. But the tube test bad, so time to swap in another one or 30....
  
  
  
 And there we go.....swapped in a known good 12AT7. Now we have both channels!


----------



## manishex

On eBay some tube descriptions show for example:
Vintage GE Mullard 6AQ8 ECC85:
Tested on a Hickok6000A: Min = 3000/3000
4950/4625

What does that fraction mean?


----------



## lwrs10

manishex said:


> On eBay some tube descriptions show for example:
> Vintage GE Mullard 6AQ8 ECC85:
> Tested on a Hickok6000A: Min = 3000/3000
> 4950/4625
> ...


 
 These tubes are basically 2 tubes in one, and are called dual triode. They have 2 sides, and those test are side1/side2. You want those numbers as close as possible.
  
  
 And I have confirmed a 12AX7 is a nogo with a mu of 100. Too much gain and distorts.
  
 5751 works, but not at full volume. You have to turn the sound down on the computer and crank the volume on the Aune. But it sounds lovely that way.
  
 Seems my Bugle Boy 12AT7 has a dead heater on one side......dammit.


----------



## manishex

lwrs10 said:


> These tubes are basically 2 tubes in one, and are called dual triode. They have 2 sides, and those test are side1/side2. You want those numbers as close as possible.




Oh i see thanks, so do these not sound as good as a single triode counterpart? Is it worth getting these dual triodes?


----------



## exSpire

Can someone link me the Amperex OG 6DJ8 on ebay? So I'll know what's fake and what's not..
  
 ^_^


----------



## lwrs10

Well.....here is the summary of the 12xx7 compatibility.
  
 12AU7.....works well, sounds good, no distortion. Also tried 5814 and 6189W, which is the military ones. So far my Pilot labelled Mullard sounds very sweet. So does that 6189W....
  
 12AT7......Works, but too much gain. You can run it half volume on the computer, then turn the volume up louder on the Aune. Also tried a 6201......same thing.
  
 12AX7.....No-go all the way around. Too much gain. 
  
 5751.......No-go. Too much gain.


----------



## Tristan944

What do you guys think of this configuration:
  
 Aune T1 RCA out -> Lepai 2020a+ RCA in -> Audio out ports -> bookshelf or monitor speakers. 
  
 Cables would be one red/white RCA audio cable and a pair of standard speaker wire.
  
 Would this configuration sound fine?


----------



## White Lotus

tristan944 said:


> What do you guys think of this configuration:
> 
> Aune T1 RCA out -> Lepai 2020a+ RCA in -> Audio out ports -> bookshelf or monitor speakers.
> 
> ...


 
  
 If you're feeding USB into the Aune, then yes! I do something similar often.


----------



## Tristan944

white lotus said:


> If you're feeding USB into the Aune, then yes! I do something similar often.


 
 Yes i will be using the USB. How do you do it?


----------



## Salvatore

coil said:


> I also have to revisit my tube review again sometime, but don`t know when because I have too many great sounding tubes and finding differences + judging by genre takes time that I just don`t have ;(


 
  
 Just don't take it too seriously. We all do it for fun. Oh and remember to keep that supported tube type list updated as you discover new working types.


----------



## White Lotus

tristan944 said:


> Yes i will be using the USB. How do you do it?


 
  
 Laptop - (USB) - AUNE T1 - (RCA) - Stereo receiver. 
  
 Works a treat! Even with the stock EH6922, I love the sound.


----------



## CoiL

salvatore said:


> Oh and remember to keep that supported tube type list updated as you discover new working types.


 
 Already updating it!  


Spoiler: Aune T1 tube list



 


coil said:


> Tube types that will work with Aune T1:
> 
> *6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, **6N27P,** 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
> *E188CC, **ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV2493, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, *
> ...


 
  
  


  
  Quote:


lwrs10 said:


> Well.....here is the summary of the 12xx7 compatibility.
> 
> 12AU7.....works well, sounds good, no distortion. Also tried 5814 and 6189W, which is the military ones. So far my Pilot labelled Mullard sounds very sweet. So does that 6189W....
> 
> ...


 
 Can you please give us pin-out list like you did in case of 6SN7 > 6DJ8, so I could add it to tube list information post. 
  
  
 Edit: Hey guys, some more tube types to test if someone has them: *ECC180, 6BC8, 6BZ8, 8BQ7A*
 Also added *B719* and *6L12* since they are ECC85/6AQ8 equivalents.


----------



## lwrs10

Pinout to use a 12xx7 tube.
  
  
  
 Tie pins 4 and 5 together on the 12xx7, then that goes to pin 4 on 6922 side. 
  
 Pin 9 goes to pin 5.
  
 Done


----------



## lwrs10

Its tube review time!
  
  
  
 This list will be updated for each tube I really give a good listen to.
  
 The grading scale is as follows:
  
 Scale is 1-10.
  
 Bass, Treble, and Midrange: Quantity and Quality. If something was not right, or something really sounded great, details will be in the review paragraph.
  
 Soundstage: How wide/deep it was. 
  
 Imaging: How well within the soundstage the instruments were placed. 
  
 Detail: How much detail I could hear in recordings I am very familiar with.
  
 Presence: How well the tube presented the music overall. I have tubes that rate very high in all numbers but presence. Best way I can explain this is how musical the tube was. 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
 ​  ​ *CCa*
  
*1. Valvo CCa. Heerlen factory. 1962. Gold pin, pinched waist.*
     Its like a koala bear crapped a rainbow in my ear. After I get one fully broken in there will be a more detailed review.
  
 ​  ​  ​ *7308/E188CC*
  
  
  
*1*. *Amperex Golden Globe 7308. Gold pins, NY Factory.*
  
    The sound of this tube can be summed up with one word. Lively. If tubes could be compared to live concerts, this would be the Woodstock of tubes. All the mud, drugs, and boobies included. Sure is a hell of a time, but could you live like this everyday? NOPE. Bass seems to be slightly lacking. What is there is of very good quality, but you do not get the head tip going on following the bass pedal with songs like The Wall. The midrange on the other hand, is there. And by there I mean you feel like you are right next to the guitar player ripping off a solo.  3D, holographic, and very forward would describe the midrange. The treble takes 2nd chair to that midrange though, and does not have quite the sparkle some would like. But what is there is of good quality. This tube creates such a soundstage and presence with the midrange that it is plain fun. This would be on my list of essential tubes for the Aune T1.
  
  
*                           On Speakers            On Headphones(DT990)*
  
*Bass                              6                                            6*
  
*Midrange                     10                                          10*
  
*Treble                           8                                            8*
  
*Sounstage                   10                                           10+*
  
*Imaging                       10                                           10*
  
*Detail                            8                                            8*
  
*Presence                      9                                            9*
  
  
  
  
  
*ECC85/6AQ8*
  
*1*. *Siemens ECC85. Munchen factory, 1959 date code.* 
  
    This tube has a nice and balanced sound. I can't find any flaws in the sound, but it also does not stick out in any way. Best way I can explain it.
  
  
*                           On Speakers            On Headphones(DT990)*
  
*Bass                              6                                            6*
  
*Midrange                      6                                            6*
  
*Treble                           6                                            6*
  
*Sounstage                    6                                            6*
  
*Imaging                        6                                            6*
  
*Detail                            6                                            6*
  
*Presence                      5                                            5*
  
  
  
*2. Telefunken ECC85. Berlin factory, late 1950's date code. *
  
*    *I have never met a Telefunken I did not like, and this one follows that path. Telefunkens always have a nice rounded warm sound to me. I would call this tube sweet sounding. Not quite 100% neutral, but seems to add life to any style of music.....and the detail...the DETAIL...... Soundstage comes out and hugs you on speakers. On headphones you are front row. Bass is nice and tight, but not recessed in any way. Midrange is ever so slightly recessed, but you are not going to miss any vocals or guitar riffs. Treble is smooth and sparkly. This would be on my list of essential tubes for the Aune T1.
  
  
*                           On Speakers            On Headphones(DT990)*
  
*Bass                              9                                            9*
  
*Midrange                      7                                            7*
  
*Treble                           9                                            9*
  
*Sounstage                    9                                           10*
  
*Imaging                       9                                             9*
  
*Detail                           10                                          10*
  
*Presence                      9                                            9*
  
  
  
  
  
*3. Mullard ECC85. Blacburn factory, early 60's date code. Copper grid rods, pinched waist. *
  
*   *This tube has been rolling around in a box in my room for years. It has zero labeling on it besides NEC 94, so for quite a while I did not know what it was. After some help over at Audiokarma and browsing around Ebay, I was finally able to identify it. And glad I did too. Sitting here trying to think of what to type to describe any flaws, and it is really hard. Bass, midrange, and treble are perfect balanced. Nothing is flabby. Nothing is harsh. Plenty of sparkle on the top end. It does everything well. if I had to pick one thing this tube does that stands out, acoustic guitar has a certain texture on this tube that will give you an "eargasm". There seems to be some kinda of dynamic range "punch" added by this tube. The same punch you can get out of a good tube guitar amp. Every chord struck had a percussive feel to it.  This would be on my list of essential tubes for the Aune T1.
  
*                           On Speakers            On Headphones(DT990)*
  
*Bass                              9                                            9*
  
*Midrange                     10                                          10*
  
*Treble                          10                                          10*
  
*Sounstage                    9                                            9*
  
*Imaging                       9                                             9*
  
*Detail                           9                                             9*
  
*Presence                    10                                            10*
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
*4.Valvo ECC85. Hamburg factory, 1950. Nickel grid rods, pinched waist. Has Grundig tube number on top(218)*
  
* *  I pulled this one out of a tuning circuit in an old Grundig console I have. It was swapped in right after the Mullard from above. I noticed right off how smooth the treble was. It has a silkyness to it that will fit certain types of music well. But this comes at a loss of that "sparkle" some people like. The midrange is holographic, absolutley stunning. It was very interesting with my headphones. Felt like the drivers were 10 feet away from my ears. On my speakers, the soundstage depth was miles deep, and extended well past where the speakers were placed. The bass is lean and mean.....I would not call it recessed at all. 
  
*                           On Speakers            On Headphones(DT990)*
  
*Bass                              8                                            8*
  
*Midrange                     10                                          10*
  
*Treble                           8                                            8*
  
*Sounstage                   10                                           10*
  
*Imaging                       10                                           10*
  
*Detail                            8                                             8*
  
*Presence                      8                                             8*
  
  
  
  
*12AU7/6189W*
  
*You MUST change the heater circuit to run this tube!!!*
  
*1. Pilot labelled 12AU7. Siemens, Berlin plant. *
    This tube took the Aune to a whole 'nother level. Everything became very smooth, yet still detailed. From 20hz to wherever you claim you can hear, it is perfectly balanced. No one thing sticks out. Soundstage is right about what it should be without being artificially wide. Imaging is accurate. Detail is very well balanced between any note that passes through it. The only thing I find this tube does over any other I have tried is decay. With this tube I noticed a certain decay of notes I have not previously with any other tube. As in a piano playing......the notes trail off perfectly. I honestly cannot find a single fault with this tube, as it is the most well balanced and "perfect" I have tried so far. I am very hesitant to rate it a perfect 10 as there is usually room for improvement, but in this case, maybe there isn't. If you have the ability to build the adapter to run this tube, I would have to say this is the only tube you need. Ever. 
  
*                           On Speakers            On Headphones(DT990)*
  
*Bass                             10                                          10*
  
*Midrange                     10                                          10*
  
*Treble                           10                                          10*
  
*Sounstage                   10                                          10*
  
*Imaging                       10                                          10*
  
*Detail                           10                                           10*
  
*Presence                     10                                           10*


----------



## CoiL

Stock 6922 is actually with littlebit recessed mids and extended highs/lows with quite loose bass and I wouldn`t say it`s balanced (in my setup and also according to many others). So, first one not interested in. Making me wonder about your taste/hearing/setup/genre difference. But keep it coming! 
  
 And what do you mean about presence?
 I would also add transparency to list (how easy is it to concentrate only on 1 instrument & how well it sounds out from "behind" others).
 On what scale you will be giving points? 1 to 10?
 With soundstage points you mean higher = larger? Or did you mean imaging (instrument/sound placement & separation in "room") as higher = better?
  
 Edit: why did you delete your opinion about stock 6922EH being almost "same" & balanced sounding as Siemens ECC85 ? It`s a good point to grasp your setup differences and "taste" about tubes! Now it`s harder for me to make sense of your impressions.


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Stock 6922 is actually with littlebit recessed mids and extended highs/lows with quite loose bass and I wouldn`t say it`s balanced (in my setup and also according to many others). So, first one not interested in. Making me wonder about your taste/hearing/setup/genre difference. But keep it coming!
> And what do you mean about presence?
> I would also add transparency to list (how easy is it to concentrate only on 1 instrument & how well it sounds out from "behind" others).
> On what scale you will be giving points? 1 to 10?
> With soundstage points you mean higher = larger? Or did you mean imaging (instrument/sound placement & separation in "room") as higher = better?


 
  
  
 Fixed most of this and added a scale description. 
  
 I am not adding transparency to it because that is VERY subjective to the recording and your ears. What I think might be the perfect balance between a cymbal and a snare you might think different.


----------



## CoiL

You got my idea about transparency wrong. Did not mean balance between cymbal & snare or other instruments. 


coil said:


> I would also add transparency to list (how easy is it to concentrate only on 1 instrument & how well it sounds out (I meant through everything else)


 
  
 Every sound part is actually subjective and depends on many things.
  
 Explain what you mean about "presence" because this word hasn`t been used much to describe sound nuances.


coil said:


> With soundstage points you mean higher = larger? Or did you mean imaging (instrument/sound placement & separation in "room") as higher = better?


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> You got my idea about transparency wrong. Did not mean balance between cymbal & snare or other instruments.
> 
> Every sound part is actually subjective and depends on many things.
> 
> Explain what you mean about "presence" because this word hasn`t been used much to describe sound nuances.


 
  
  
 A description was added. How musical the tube was overall. If you have a better word to use I am all "ears"!
  
 I deleted the EH6922 comment because it has been a long time since I have used it, and it probably was not a fair compare.


----------



## CoiL

Ok, that clears things up. Instead presence I would use word dynamics or just musicality but it`s up to you. Actually, I would not add "how musical is tube overall" at all because this is very subjective. All those other things make up that "musicality" and that`s up to others to decide how "musical" tube sounds to them and setup & synergy is anyway different. But this is only my viewpoint, do as you like, your review!


----------



## spacequeen7

lwrs10 said:


> *3. Mullard ECC85. Blacburn factory, early 60's date code. Copper grid rods, pinched waist. *
> 
> *   *This tube has been rolling around in a box in my room for years. It has zero labeling on it besides NEC 94, so for quite a while I did not know what it was. After some help over at Audiokarma and browsing around Ebay, I was finally able to identify it. And glad I did too. Sitting here trying to think of what to type to describe any flaws, and it is really hard. Bass, midrange, and treble are perfect balanced. Nothing is flabby. Nothing is harsh. Plenty of sparkle on the top end. It does everything well. if I had to pick one thing this tube does that stands out, acoustic guitar has a certain texture on this tube that will give you an "eargasm". This would be on my list of essential tubes for the Aune T1.
> 
> ...


 
any chance for some close-ups of this little bad boy ?


----------



## Salvatore

lwrs10 said:


> Its tube review time!


 
  
 And you know where to find it


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> any chance for some close-ups of this little bad boy ?


 
 Also ..is this the mallard you describe with the two circular holes each side (not the rectangular ones)....Like this


----------



## lwrs10

spacequeen7 said:


> any chance for some close-ups of this little bad boy ?


 
  
  
  
 Soon....
  
  
  
 Quote:


arcorob said:


> Also ..is this the mallard you describe with the two circular holes each side (not the rectangular ones)....Like this


 
  
  
 Thats the one....but that one doesnt look like it has the pinched waist like mine does.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Thats the one....but that one doesnt look like it has the pinched waist like mine does.


 

 You know, I keep reading about pinched waist...but don't really know what that looks like..what part is PINCHED ? Not the glass, right ? where is it ? THNAKS
  
 EDIt...is this a pinched waist ?


----------



## Salvatore

arcorob said:


> Not the glass, right ?


 
  
 Yes the glass. quote from audiotubes.com "_This is actually a molding flaw which made the glass bottom slightly fatter around the outside than the rest of the tube, and the center of the tube actually dips inward and touches the metal elements inside. Clients report these are incredible sounding tubes, and the upward spiral of prices for the rare pinch waist types seem to bear this out._"
  
 The glass should be slightly hourglass shaped like in these pictures: http://jda1951.xanga.com/2012/11/27/amperex-usa-pinched-waist-6922-pq/


----------



## lwrs10

What he said about pinched waist. You will also usually see little nubs where the micas pressed into the glass. 
  
  
 Still adding to this review, and have revised a few things. The more critical listening I do, the more thought I have on the other tubes and the more I keep switching back and forth.


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> The more critical listening I do, the more thought I have on the other tubes and the more I keep switching back and forth.


 
 NOW the "game" is on!  That`s what I was talking about - 1st impressions aren`t always accurate. I`ve had cases where inital impressions were bad/good but later it was opposite/different depending on burn-in/music/headphones/speakers etc.
  
 Please add Amperex 7308 too to review!


----------



## teb1013

Thanks for interesting posts, lwrs10. As an Amperex 7308 fan I too would like to hear your commnts on that tube.


----------



## lwrs10

oooo found a box of NOS Valvo CCa. My night just got planned....
  
 added a review for one of my 7308's.


----------



## spacequeen7

lwrs10 said:


> oooo found a box of NOS Valvo CCa. My night just got planned....
> 
> added a review for one of my 7308's.


 
 love my Valvo CCa and agree with your review all tho *Detail *10 on my red labeled Valvoa  
  
 BTW,got this one inbound ,hopefully it's a keeper 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141154242572?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## icecap

Any 60s, 70s Siemens E88CC you can review and compare too? Would like to hear your views on it as I use DT990pro too.


----------



## exSpire

Hey guys
  
 Would I have any problems with 720p\1080p movies that I download (AC3\DTS audio streams) with the Aune T1 connected via USB?
 I'm using headphones and the Aune T1 will be used both as a DAC and as an amplifier.


----------



## lwrs10

nope.


----------



## exSpire

Thanks.
  
 If you don't mind- what about gaming?
  
  
 The reason I'm asking is because I thought that via USB the DAC operates alone, in comparison to S/PDIF that allows the use of the soundcard's DSP and all of its effects {whatever those are, I thought that DTS was one of them}. In FPS gaming it is important to get sound cues and tell which way things are coming from.


----------



## lwrs10

never had a single problem in any game.


----------



## CoiL

slovetro said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Found one intresting offer, Ei PCC189 (Philips, probably Heerlen made) tubes for 8$, anyone willing to try? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PCC189-audio-double-triode-tube-NOS-FREE-SHIPPING-/301003673822?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item46153790de
> ...


 


coil said:


> Can`t say anything for sure but I have one Philips PCC189 (Heerlen Holland) and it is very good, for me it sounds very similiar to Mullard ECC88 (newer shield logo Heerlen Holland) & Lorenz SEL PCC189 (Heerlen Holland) & GAE coded Amperex PQ shield logo 6DJ8. They all look with same inner build as this Ei tube. I`m just guessing but those Ei PCC189 should be pretty good and for 8$ it`s worth to try imo.


 


coil said:


> Those on sale are Ei Philips according to sellers "philips etched codes" information.


 


mhamel said:


> Yes, there were Philips tubes produced at the Ei factory in Yugoslavia, so it can still have Philips codes.


 

  
 Well, I got my Ei PCC189 and it is coded CPA *half circle with dot inside*7E which means it`s made by Elektronski Intustija, Nis, Yugoslavia.
 How they sound? Initial impressions are that they are good but not so good as Amperex OG 6DJ8 GAC or other Heerlen tubes I have. Compared to Amperex OG it seems to have little less wide soundstage and feels little lack of depth. Also it doesn`t sound so dynamic & musical. Despite that, it seems to have well "balanced & neutral" sound. But these are only initial impressions after exhausting workday, so I`m tired to be adequate, and it is really NOS totally untouched tube, pins don`t have ANY "scratch" marks on them. This tube certainly needs burn-in to open up. Will let it burn some time & I will give second opinion about it in future. 
 For 6$ - it`s still a great deal and nice addition to collection imo


----------



## slovetro

I have been following the latest updates on this page for about the most 20 recent pages or so and I haven't seen it come up.  I have read the spec details about the product as well and can't seem to find the information.  
  
 The large black box (wish i knew the actual name) that connects the device to the power source seems to have the power to convert voltages.  Is this true? 
  
 I am currently in the states, but will be traveling and using this device in Hong Kong, the Philippines, Thailand, China, and New Zealand.  I've looked up all the different voltages, but they are just that, different.  So, do I need use a bulky converter as well, or just a plug adapter each time?
  
 Thanks!


----------



## spacequeen7

you have two choices 220v or 110v....so... (110v USA).....all other country's are listed here
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country
  
 110v~127v=(110v) anything above that would be (220V)


----------



## slovetro

I know that those are the voltages of the countries I am going to compared to the states.  But, will that be a problem or will the Aune convert the power?


----------



## spacequeen7

it will blow up in your face, burn your house and entire population of the country ..
 .
 .
 .
 ..
 jk ,you will be fine make sure to connect regular power cable where 220v is present


----------



## CoiL

If you have 110V power supply unit (it should be 110V since you are in US), then you can`t use it in countries with 220V wall outlet - you will fry your power supply unit or even worse, damage Aune T1. You probably have to order another PSU which is 220V. Someone here ordered another PSU but I don`t know from where. I think it was official Aune eBay dealer.


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> If you have 110V power supply unit (it should be 110V since you are in US), then you can`t use it in countries with 220V wall outlet - you will fry your power supply unit or even worse, damage Aune T1. You probably have to order another PSU which is 220V. Someone here ordered another PSU but I don`t know from where. I think it was official Aune eBay dealer.


 

 Hey bud, I don't dispute this but the specs on the power for AUNE say 120/220 ...I wonder if the "brick" handles it since it converts it to 15-0-15 anyway ?


----------



## spacequeen7

I took a quick look at the power adapter  unit it looks to me like the Aune is (220v native), this adapter is made for 110v/USA so all he needs to do is not to use the adapter when 220v is present


----------



## CoiL

Hmmm... then there must be newer version PSU because mine says "Model: T1--1504. Input: AC240V ~50/60Hz. Output: AC 15V-0-15V 1A. Wuhan Aune Technology Co.Ltd."
 And as I know resellers offer them with 2 options - 110V or 220V.


----------



## slovetro

Thanks so much!  Helpful info everyone.  I'm still not positive, but when I get home, I will check the info on my brick and see which one it corresponds to.


----------



## spacequeen7

coil said:


> Hmmm... then there must be newer version PSU because mine says "Model: T1--1504. Input: AC240V ~50/60Hz. Output: AC 15V-0-15V 1A. Wuhan Aune Technology Co.Ltd."
> And as I know resellers offer them with 2 options - 110V or 220V.


 
 you bought the Aune T1 in Europe ?
  
@slovetro .. your best bet is to email Aune ,you may end up getting another adapter/converter


----------



## CoiL

Bought it from UK eBay reseller. I think it was Kidult.


----------



## spacequeen7

@slovetro ...your best bet is to email Aune ,..you may end up getting another adapter/converter like Coil have


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> Hey bud, I don't dispute this but the specs on the power for AUNE say 120/220 ...I wonder if the "brick" handles it since it converts it to 15-0-15 anyway ?


 
  
 The brick is nothing more than a bare transformer with the AC output fed to the internal power supply on the Aune. 
  
 While the the Aune is advertised as 110/220, to the best of my knowledge, that means either / or - determined by which transformer brick you have.   Furthermore, at least on the 110v brick that I pulled apart, there was only a single primary winding so that it couldn't be rewired to use 220. 
  
 Buying a 2nd 220v transformer to use for 220 wall voltage is probably the easiest thing to do.   Alternately, you could DIY an external transformer box that outputs the same 15-0-15 with a filtered IEC inlet that has a power switch and voltage selector switch.


----------



## arcorob

mhamel said:


> The brick is nothing more than a bare transformer with the AC output fed to the internal power supply on the Aune.
> 
> While the the Aune is advertised as 110/220, to the best of my knowledge, that means either / or - determined by which transformer brick you have.   Furthermore, at least on the 110v brick that I pulled apart, there was only a single primary winding so that it couldn't be rewired to use 220.
> 
> Buing a 2nd 220v transformer to use for 220 wall voltage is probably the easiest thing to do.   Alternately, you could DIY an external transformer box that outputs the same 15-0-15 with a filtered IEC inlet that has a power switch and voltage selector switch.


 

 Thanks for the clarification ...I myself was not sure...


----------



## lwrs10

Playing with an ECC189/6ES8 right now. Not sure what brand, or where it was made.


----------



## exSpire

lwrs10 said:


> never had a single problem in any game.


 
 thx )


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> Playing with an ECC189/6ES8 right now. Not sure what brand, or where it was made.


 
  
 My best ECC189/6ES8 is Miniwatt-Dario yellow "shield" labeled ones made by Chartres France. I have 3 of those and 1 Mazda labeled.
 They all have best tightest bass & kick (and goes deep lows) out of my tubes and great soundstage. Those are awesome for EDM but good overall performer also. They are getting very rare and if you have them, try them!

  
 Those on the pics are the ones I have (eBay pics).
 LOL, by the pics I actually have 4 of those yellow labeled, already forgot 1 ;D 
  
 Edit: Atm, there are only 3 of Mazda labeled @ eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-ECC189-Mazda-France-Tested-Tube-6ES8-/300544331122?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item45f9d68d72
  
 I shared a great deal link about yellow labeled miniwatt-darios to user isendono and he bought 3 of those with insane low price  Waiting his impressions about them.
  
 Edit: I also have 2x Heerlen made yellow "shield" labeled Miniwatt-Dario PCC189`s too. One is coded IP9 ⊿9F1 and 2nd is IP9 ⊿7H4. 1st one is imo same good as those France made ECC189`s but second one is different sounding and not so good.


----------



## lwrs10

Identified this tube. Its a GE labelled ECC189, with a Mullard Blackburn plant code.


----------



## arcorob

A new tube review (2 actually). I will be sure to add the review to my list on the right page but for now...also, remember with any analysis...it only applies to the system. My junk could be your treasure. and vice versa.
  
*Mullard 6GM8/ECC86 Coded- ~~D4A2 -  2 Stars *
 I was excited to get my first Mullard in this series as I have come to expect good things. Now I have received TWO of these, same date code, same lot and never seen a socket. They are not broken in but I can always tell where a tube starts and where it might be headed. Unfortunately for me, it was a bit bass heavy and nowhere near as detailed as the GE tube or even the stock tube.Mids and staging was flat.  I was looking so forward to liking this. Well, expect nothing and you wont be disappointed. These cost me the most so far and I don't enjoy them at all.
  
*Sylvania . 6DJ8 ECC88 Halo Getter Yellow Lettering USA FB EFB - 4 Stars*
 Now this is more like it. Very nice tube. Beautiful soundstage, deep base but not boomy. Nice mid's. For under $10 shipped, this tube is beautiful. So why 4 stars ? Comparatively, the GE at 4.25 STARs still bests this one slightly with a bit more detail and a bit more forward in the mids, Still a beautiful tube and if I never heard the GE, this would be my #1. There is a smooth quality to it, velvety that I expected from the Mullard (but did not get). You would be crazy not to try one for a price in this range.
  
 That's it !!! Two more coming ....LOL Pictures of the Sylvania below


----------



## CoiL

Acrorob, can you please take a pic of getter part of that sylvania - there are different constructions on this one.
 Edit: nvm, it should be still flat plate + O-ring getter.


----------



## lwrs10

Added a review for a 12AU7. 
  
*12AU7/6189W*
  
*You MUST change the heater circuit to run this tube!!!*
  
*1. Pilot labelled 12AU7. Siemens, Berlin plant. *
     This tube took the Aune to a whole 'nother level. Everything became very smooth, yet still detailed. From 20hz to wherever you claim you can hear, it is perfectly balanced. No one thing sticks out. Soundstage is right about what it should be without being artificially wide. Imaging is accurate. Detail is very well balanced between any note that passes through it. The only thing I find this tube does over any other I have tried is decay. With this tube I noticed a certain decay of notes I have not previously with any other tube. As in a piano playing......the notes trail off perfectly. I honestly cannot find a single fault with this tube, as it is the most well balanced and "perfect" I have tried so far. I am very hesitant to rate it a perfect 10 as there is usually room for improvement, but in this case, maybe there isn't. If you have the ability to build the adapter to run this tube, I would have to say this is the only tube you need. Ever. 
  
*                           On Speakers            On Headphones(DT990)*
  
*Bass                             10                                          10*
  
*Midrange                     10                                          10*
  
*Treble                           10                                          10*
  
*Sounstage                   10                                          10*
  
*Imaging                       10                                          10*
  
*Detail                           10                                           10*
  
*Presence                     10                                           10*


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> Acrorob, can you please take a pic of getter part of that sylvania - there are different constructions on this one.
> Edit: nvm, it should be still flat plate + O-ring getter.


 

 Only if you spell my name right 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
 It is (to me) very unique.
  
 There are copper rods up from the plate to a FLAT solid plate then an O-Getter...looks very well made and thus perhaps the sound...Best I could do on pics (dammit I need to break out some camera's ...I DID have a photo business and here I am using a damn camera phone)


----------



## CoiL

Sorry, arcorob! ;D
  
 I`m starting to really wonder about lwrs10 taste and setup difference from mine. First Amperex 7308 gets beaten by Mullard ECC85, then it gets beaten by Pilot 12AU7 to "whole new level". I though Amperex 7308 was already pretty much "another level" where there isn`t much to go further anymore. I think our perception of great sounding tube splits. But we`ll see when I (or someone else) manage to get my hands on one of those.
 Anyway keep those reviews coming lwrs10!


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Sorry, arcorob! ;D
> 
> I`m starting to really wonder about lwrs10 taste and setup difference from mine. First Amperex 7308 gets beaten by Mullard ECC85, then it gets beaten by Pilot 12AU7 to "whole new level". I though Amperex 7308 was already pretty much "another level" where there isn`t much to go further anymore. I think our perception of great sounding tube splits. But we`ll see when I (or someone else) manage to get my hands on one of those.
> Anyway keep those reviews coming lwrs10!


 
  
 Remember, this is all subjective to the listeners ears. 
  
 There is one other person in this thread who has tried the ECC85 and a few others too. I asked him to post his impressions too.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Remember, this is all subjective to the listeners ears.
> 
> There is one other person in this thread who has tried the ECC85 and a few others too. I asked him to post his impressions too.


 
 Plus..I have one on the way...
  
 But as I have said time and time again...okay.,.maybe once but what I have said is, these will sound different on different systems. They may have similar qualities (such as detailed, forward mids, etc.) but can also diverge depending on the system. Example, I found the amperex globe a bit bass heavy but still agreed it was detailed, forward mids, wide soundstage...etc.
  
 So what I am saying is, not everything is guaranteed...I still want to try a 7308..but I just have to cool it for a while..I can get a bit OCD on tubes ..but you guys would not know what that's like.,..right ? LOL


----------



## arcorob

Good to know but changing the heater is not for the faint of heart ? Doesn't the 12AU7 require higher on the heater and put out less gain than a 6DJ8?


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Plus..I have one on the way...
> 
> But as I have said time and time again...okay.,.maybe once but what I have said is, these will sound different on different systems. They may have similar qualities (such as detailed, forward mids, etc.) but can also diverge depending on the system. Example, I found the amperex globe a bit bass heavy but still agreed it was detailed, forward mids, wide soundstage...etc.
> 
> So what I am saying is, not everything is guaranteed...I still want to try a 7308..but I just have to cool it for a while..I can get a bit OCD on tubes ..but you guys would not know what that's like.,..right ? LOL


 
  
  
 Know what its like? Nope......not at all.....
  
 I keed.


----------



## arcorob

Lwrs10...can you post the process for making this work with 12AU7,,I have some beauties I would love to try...Thanks


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Lwrs10...can you post the process for making this work with 12AU7,,I have some beauties I would love to try...Thankstie


 
  
 tie pin 4 and 5 together on the 12au7, connect to pin 4 on aune.
  
 connect pin 9 on 12au7 to pin 5 on aune.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> tie pin 4 and 5 together on the 12au7, connect to pin 4 on aune.
> 
> connect pin 9 on 12au7 to pin 5 on aune.


 

 Um..no...LOL
  
 An adapter would be nice
  
 would something like this work>
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-6SN7-6SL7-To-12AU7-12AX7-Tube-Adapter-Socket-Converter-8pin-to-9pin-Adaptor-/400403674890?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5d39eb370a


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Um..no...LOL
> 
> An adapter would be nice


 
 Maybe I should make some and sell them?


----------



## isendono

lwrs10 said:


> Maybe I should make some and sell them?


 
 If the price is affordable


----------



## lwrs10

isendono said:


> If the price is affordable


 
  
 Somewhere around 10 bucks I bet would be ok.


----------



## isendono

lwrs10 said:


> Somewhere around 10 bucks I bet would be ok.


 
 Then you can count me in as one of the buyer  <3


----------



## spacequeen7

^^ I'm in


----------



## lwrs10

I bought some socket savers to make these out of. Damn these things are expensive!
  
 I will make 2 versions. 
  
 One will be a drop in and use the 6.3V heater circuit in the Aune.
  
  
 3rd one will be a 6SN7 adapter that is a direct plug and play. This one will have a small circuit in it to bias the 6SN7 correctly. No external power needed. 
  
  
 Sound good?


----------



## spacequeen7




----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> Lwrs10...can you post the process for making this work with 12AU7,,I have some beauties I would love to try...Thanks


 
 Be sure to check tube list from time to time, it has all the info you need. I already added this socket mod there  
 If lwrs10 will give that "small circuit" type adapter scheme also, it would be nice and I will add it to "suitable tube list".

 Quote:


coil said:


> Tube types that will work with Aune T1:
> 
> *6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, **6N27P,** 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
> *E188CC, **ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV2493, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, *
> ...


----------



## Salvatore

lwrs10 said:


> *                           On Speakers            On Headphones(DT990)*
> 
> *Bass                             10                                          10*
> 
> ...


 
  


lwrs10 said:


> Remember, this is all subjective to the listeners ears.


 
  
 Can't totally agree. Imaging presence, sure subjective, but you also have some parameters that should not be so subjective. High detail = high detail. You also have speaker and headphone values side by side which eliminates some synergy issues. The subjective terms always need some explaining imo. I guess if you find better tubes you just have to extend your scale 
  
There's a typo highlighted in red


----------



## lwrs10

As I try more tubes, ratings of other tubes might slide around. So far that 12au7 is the best I have heard to me, so it's rated 10 in my books

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> I bought some socket savers to make these out of. Damn these things are expensive!
> 
> I will make 2 versions.
> 
> ...


 

 So what about the converter plug I posted that is 6SN7 to 12AU7..is that missing something ?
  
 I like drop ins !!! LOL so the AUNE uses the same heater as the 12AU7 (6.3V)?


----------



## arcorob

Sorry to ask again ...But is this the same thing or does your circuit do something different ? Thanks
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/12AU7-12AT7-Adapter-to-6SN7-Basing-/271060465244?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3f1c76765c


----------



## arcorob

Hey..for anyone who wants to know pinouts, this pdf is COOL
  
 http://bustedgear.com/res_Tube_pinouts.pdf


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Sorry to ask again ...But is this the same thing or does your circuit do something different ? Thanks
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/12AU7-12AT7-Adapter-to-6SN7-Basing-/271060465244?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3f1c76765c


 
  
  
 That is the exact opposite of what we need.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> That is the exact opposite of what we need.


 

 Ah...directionality...LOL
  
 So its this type (8 pin to 9 pin ?)
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-convert-tube-socket-6SN7-6SL7-to-12AU7-12AX7-/220742043198?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item336540463e


----------



## arcorob

I'll stop asking and let lwrs10 come up with the device...LOL


----------



## lwrs10

Nope....still backwards

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10, sry if you already told it but I`m asking how are you feeding your Aune T1 - what OS? WASAPI? Lossless files?
 And one though about your reviews - can you maybe narrow your scale number down to 5 (like arcorob uses) because your numbers hardly go lower than 5 which makes using so wide scale useless imho.

 One thing I wanted to remind to all of you who are buying NOS tubes - *clean the pins*! and let the tube *burn in at least 48h straight* before you start to compare. I have had many cases where tube gets noticeably better and "opens" up. Like this Ei PCC189 I`m burning atm, already hear some signs it getting better. I usually leave my NOS tubes burning at nights with different music genres. And that Brimar ECC88 that I told is my worst tube ever - it has gone much better being used while I watch movies and do other stuff. Got to compare it against my "lower grade" tubes again sometime.
  
 I will do pins cleaning guide today with pictures to show newcomers to tube world how to clean pins without "scratching" metal surface using strong vinegar (not apple) + baking soda. Actually you can use other "kitchen" acids too but pure strong vinegar is best imho. Many tend to clean those pins with sandpaper (bad bad bad!) or other "physical" method that micro-shapes pins - which is bad because you should let the socket do the "pins shaping" to achieve best contact. The guide I`m going to provide uses basic household stuff and there are no special tools involved. You might think that this is easy - just put acid+soda together and soak those pins into it - no, there are some tiny tips


----------



## lwrs10

Mostly Windows, foobar, wasapi push.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## lwrs10

Can't edit post mobile, forgot to add 100% of my music is ALAC

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## spacequeen7

I'm contemplating on buying Bravo V2 that's on MD for $49.99(uses 12AU7 tubes) and pair it with T1, what you guys think ?


----------



## CoiL

Bravo V2 and other versions (Indeed etc.) require lot of modifications to get them good sounding. Do more research about modding them and if it`s ok with you, then try. Bravo V2 was also in my list but gave up on that after reading modifications threads and sound quality. I think it`s actually better to go with PA2V2 with those lower cost amps but tube rolling is fun for sure  What about Schiit Vali? Or Bravo Ocean (someone here tested it with T1).


----------



## spacequeen7

I want to keep the detail that Aune gives with the tube feel ..Schiit Vali?(link ?)...still hoping for DarkVoice 336SE that's also on MD


----------



## CoiL

DV336se is probably best out of those and should be pretty sure thing to go for. 
  
 Schiit Vali: http://schiit.com/products/vali
 Head-Fi thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/685162/new-vali-schiit-amp


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> I'm contemplating on buying Bravo V2 that's on MD for $49.99(uses 12AU7 tubes) and pair it with T1, what you guys think ?


 

 I have one and like it very much...The 12AU7 tube rolling really opens it up...
  
 What's wrong with the amp in the T1 ? Why not use that ?


----------



## CoiL

Aune T1 amp portion is quite bright and "cold" sounding to many and it`s little "weak" for some high-impedance headphones or orthos. To bring out best potential of some cans they need more powerful amp and if it uses more tubes - more options to find synergy.


----------



## lwrs10

Gonna try a 6N3P/5670W/301A tube combo for the hell of it now....


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> Aune T1 amp portion is quite bright and "cold" sounding to many and it`s little "weak" for some high-impedance headphones or orthos. To bring out best potential of some cans they need more powerful amp and if it uses more tubes - more options to find synergy.


 

 Thanks...I have never even used the headphone amp on the T1 ...straight out the RCA's to the system...


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> I have one and like it very much...The 12AU7 tube rolling really opens it up...
> 
> What's wrong with the amp in the T1 ? Why not use that ?


 
 someone mention improvement when pairing with tube amp ,standalone Aune  sounds sweet but if I can improve it  with tube amp without sacrificing the overall tube signature I will probably do it


----------



## lwrs10

Took the Aune apart. The heater circuit is stand alone, and can handle 3 amps. 
  

  
  
 And here is the headphone amplifier board. I see lots of room for improvement here.


----------



## lwrs10

useless info


----------



## lwrs10

Replaced the no name secondary regulated power supply caps with some good Nichicon.









Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Replaced the no name secondary regulated power supply caps with some good Nichicon.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Did the PS caps really matter ? which ones are in the signal path ?


----------



## lwrs10

Those gold caps are directly in the signal path for the headphone amplifier.
  
 The power supply caps usually do not matter, but no brand caps don't sit well with me.
  
  
 As for sound difference, using headphones, this tamed down the slight harshness it always had before. It never had that problem using the line out, but the headphone amp was kinda harsh to my ears. The line out listening will be done tomorrow, as it is late tonight.
  
  
 But as far as the headphone out difference, well......it was quite a noticeable improvement.


----------



## teb1013

arcorob said:


> I have one and like it very much...The 12AU7 tube rolling really opens it up...
> 
> What's wrong with the amp in the T1 ? Why not use that ?




I'm sure CoiL and others are correct about fairly high impedence phones. For my easy to drive HD558s the Aune T1 amp works just fine. With the correct tube it can sound great on its own.


----------



## lwrs10

teb1013 said:


> I'm sure CoiL and others are correct about fairly high impedence phones. For my easy to drive HD558s the Aune T1 amp works just fine. With the correct tube it can sound great on its own.


 
  
  
 I'm working on that right now. Measuring voltages, mapping out the circuit, and seeing how I can improve it. 
  
  
 I also got the balls to try out a 6H30P finally. 850ma heater current! But like I said, the Aune's heater supply can handle up to 3 amps, so no worries on my end. This is a tube to add to the list. It works perfect, with quite a good sound so far. This makes the list expand quite a bit.....6H6N, etc. See the Little Dot Mk III thread.


----------



## isendono

lwrs10 said:


> I'm working on that right now. Measuring voltages, mapping out the circuit, and seeing how I can improve it.
> 
> 
> I also got the balls to try out a 6H30P finally. This is a tube to add to the list. It works perfect, with quite a good sound so far. This makes the list expand quite a bit.....6H6N, etc.


 
 So we can just insert the 6h30p into the socket and it will work? This past few days is getting crazy because the tubelist kept expanding !  Will appreciate it if you can rate the tubes in the near future ^^ and thanks in advance


----------



## lwrs10

isendono said:


> So we can just insert the 6h30p into the socket and it will work? This past few days is getting crazy because the tubelist kept expanding !  Will appreciate it if you can rate the tubes in the near future ^^ and thanks in advance


 
  
  
 Thats all I did.....plug it in and turn it on. No adapter needed. 
  
  
 And I do have a tube review post already, and am adding to it as I see fit.
  
http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/3885#post_10132763
  
  
  
 Initial impressions of this 6H30Pi is it has some BALLS. Very punchy.
  
 *EDIT EDIT EDIT*
  
 Between changing out those caps and throwing this 6H30Pi in, I have found my musical Zen. That is all.


----------



## CoiL

This is just ................................ C R A Z Y! O_o !

 About fake caps - got to check my unit too but I belive my unit has real caps in place because I bought it long time ago when Aune T1 didn`t have this reputation and price was noticeably higher.
 But going to open my unit soon anyway - making wooden case+knob with tube "box" under it for 3-4 tubes ;P


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> This is just ................................ C R A Z Y! O_o !
> 
> About fake caps - got to check my unit too but I belive my unit has real caps in place because I bought it long time ago when Aune T1 didn`t have this reputation and price was noticeably higher.
> But going to open my unit soon anyway - making wooden case+knob with tube "box" under it for 3-4 tubes ;P


 
  
  
 Update your list to include the 6H30P1, 6H6N, etc. They work very well.


----------



## manishex

Should I get used he-400 for 260 or the he-500 for 440 for use with the aune t1, since it may not bring out everything from the he-500


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > This is just ................................ C R A Z Y! O_o !
> ...


 
 Will update it tonight. Have to scan through those equivalent tubes to 6H30P1, 6H6N etc. If you know already what will work, please write to me and I will add those.


----------



## slinky

First time poster long time lurker

So I have recently bought an Aune T1 from Noisy Motel and it's great but what I wanted to know was how are people protecting the unit and or your headphones when turning them on and off.

 I want to avoid a pop in the cans but also I don't want to damage the amp by Just pulling the headphone plug out what's the collective wisdom on protecting both headphones and amp.


----------



## abhinit90

I minimize the volume on the Aune, take out the headphone and turn the unit off from it's rear
  
 Don't know if that puts any risk on the Aune


----------



## Salvatore

I just turn the power off because I don't want to mess with my volume settings. This being said, I'm relatively low volume listener.


----------



## lwrs10

Remember kids, when you replace big power supply capacitors, do not put them in backwards. Had some shots fired last night. Pow!
  
  
 *got distracted by a phone call and should have checked"
  
  
  
 And the turnoff thump/noise went away when the caps were replaced.


----------



## arcorob

Playing with fire...
  
 Hey bud, I know you say it works BUT the tube makers say the following:
  
 ~~The new 6H30 tube from Electro-Harmonix. Please note that this tube can not be used in place of 6DJ8 or 6922 tubes in other pre-amps; it can only be used in equipment that is designed for it. The 6H30 tube type is generally not compatible with 6922 and ECC88 tube types
  
 Be wery wery carefuwl ...I know I don't want to piss away the cost of a new AUNE ...LOL


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Playing with fire...
> 
> Hey bud, I know you say it works BUT the tube makers say the following:
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 I am very aware of this, and addressed it above. Its because the 6H30P heater current(850ma) is more than double that of a 6922/6DJ8. I verified the Aune can handle this added current last night and posted it. Right now I have the top and bottom off my Aune and am checking the temps on a few components in the circuit periodically just to make sure. So far so good. 
  
  
 Here is a small list of others that work now:
  
 6N6P/6H6N
 6H30P
 6H30Pi
 6N30P-DR
 6N30-DP
 6H30DR


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> I am very aware of this, and addressed it above. Its because the 6H30P heater current(850ma) is more than double that of a 6922/6DJ8. I verified the Aune can handle this added current last night and posted it. Right now I have the top and bottom off my Aune and am checking the temps on a few components in the circuit periodically just to make sure. So far so good.
> 
> 
> Here is a small list of others that work now:
> ...


 

 Hey bud, I don't doubt you for a minute, I know YOU know what your doing...so what is the effect of the higher heater current? Will the tube get hotter or the unit ? Sounds like AUNE built in some nice overhead..
  
 So has this become a favorite tube and one last question, how does it sound via RCA out to a system? Thanks !


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Hey bud, I don't doubt you for a minute, I know YOU know what your doing...so what is the effect of the higher heater current? Will the tube get hotter or the unit ? Sounds like AUNE built in some nice overhead..
> 
> So has this become a favorite tube and one last question, how does it sound via RCA out to a system? Thanks !


 
  
  
 One would think it would get hotter, but its running cooler than the EH6922. There is a couple resistors in the circuit that are running a tad hotter, but its no where near the DANGER WILL ROBINSON point yet.
  
  
 The RCA out is quite nice so far. Much smoother and more dynamic.


----------



## spacequeen7

lwrs10 said:


> 50v 47uf Elna Silmic eh? The bigger one is a real one I am holding next to it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
  


lwrs10 said:


> Those gold caps are directly in the signal path for the headphone amplifier. I usually am not the type to use "audio grade" caps, but the fact that the ones in this were 100% without a doubt fake, and I had real ones laying around, I swapped them.
> 
> 
> The power supply caps usually do not matter, but no brand caps don't sit well with me. The rail caps on the headphone amp were also fake after comparing them to real Nichicons. Font was not the same, indents in the top were different, and when I weighed them, the real Nichicons weighed more.
> ...


 

lwrs10..you are "national treasure" Sir can you please provide all the replacement parts list and  and some "how to " guide I really want to try this (maybe my older brother can do it) ,Thank you 
Edit;
will this work ?
http://www.headfishop.com/elna-47uf-50v-silmic-ii-rfs-audio-capacitor-hifi_p375.html


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> One would think it would get hotter, but its running cooler than the EH6922. There is a couple resistors in the circuit that are running a tad hotter, but its no where near the DANGER WILL ROBINSON point yet.
> 
> 
> The RCA out is quite nice so far. Much smoother and more dynamic.


 

 Ahh..so it does affect the RCA out....hmm..It just so happens a have a BUNCH of really sweat caps (105 degree 1%) that would go in nicely...dang...why do you have to go and start this stuff !!! LOL


----------



## Zalgorithm

manishex said:


> Should I get used he-400 for 260 or the he-500 for 440 for use with the aune t1, since it may not bring out everything from the he-500


 
  
 While I can't comment on the he-500, I do own the he-400 and I just started rolling tubes. Last night I popped in a 6n23p Voskhod/Siemens tube and so far it sounds great. Plus if you can purchase the he-400 cans at 260 then I'd jump on it. I don't think the T1 will be able to properly power the he-500, but I don't know for certain.


----------



## spacequeen7

zalgorithm said:


> While I can't comment on the he-500, I do own the he-400 and I just started rolling tubes. Last night I popped in a 6n23p Voskhod/Siemens tube and so far it sounds great. Plus if you can purchase the he-400 cans at 260 then I'd jump on it. I don't think the T1 will be able to properly power the he-500, but I don't know for certain.


 
 I should receive my 400's today


----------



## arcorob

Spacequeen...Myself personally if I am going to bother changing caps, I go with good ones that are low esr and 5% 105 degrees if I can
  
 EDIT : Know what ? I have them at home but I am finding they are NOT easy to find online...hmmm


----------



## MrGibbly

Long-time lurker newly minted contributor here.  I just wanted to take a moment to say a big Thank You to this community for all the valuable, in-depth information shared about this (and other!) amp/DACs.  I feel like I was able to make an informed buying decision of a product that will grow with my interest.  I'm currently enjoying the Aune T1 to drive my spanking new Q701s and my old stand-by HK3390 receiver + Model 6 combo in my office for listening to a wide range of music sourced from my iMac.


----------



## Zalgorithm

Keep searching arcorob! I'm interested in swapping caps too. If I find some time later, I'll see what I can do, but no promises. 
  
 And spacequeen, I think you've made a wise investment in the he-400. Enjoy. HF states a burn in period of 150 hours, just for a fyi.


----------



## stupidmop

Great thread! I love finding little gems like this.


----------



## manishex

zalgorithm said:


> While I can't comment on the he-500, I do own the he-400 and I just started rolling tubes. Last night I popped in a 6n23p Voskhod/Siemens tube and so far it sounds great. Plus if you can purchase the he-400 cans at 260 then I'd jump on it. I don't think the T1 will be able to properly power the he-500, but I don't know for certain.


 
  
Thanks, I'll probably get the he-400 although in the future we can add in a more powerful amp and just use aune's dac. Here on Amazon UK the he-400's are £370 and the he-500's are £625 if that would help put things into perspective.
 I can also get the hd650 at 200 used but it seems that Orthos are superior?


----------



## arcorob

zalgorithm said:


> Keep searching arcorob! I'm interested in swapping caps too. If I find some time later, I'll see what I can do, but no promises.
> 
> And spacequeen, I think you've made a wise investment in the he-400. Enjoy. HF states a burn in period of 150 hours, just for a fyi.


 

 Thanks...I will. I know I have them because of some leftovers form a recap project and a planned one that did not pan out. I have a box of brand new high grade caps. The thing is, I check Mouser.com, partsexpress..even ebay...Can't find better than 10% , most 20% which on a 50v cap could swing 10v


----------



## CoiL

...


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> Thanks...I will. I know I have them because of some leftovers form a recap project and a planned one that did not pan out. I have a box of brand new high grade caps. The thing is, I check Mouser.com, partsexpress..even ebay...Can't find better than 10% , most 20% which on a 50v cap could swing 10v


 
  
 Capacitor tolerance refers to the capacitance, not voltage.   A 100uF 50V cap is still a 50V cap, at 20% tolerance, it's capacitance could be anywhere from 80uF to 120uF and sill remain in spec.


----------



## CoiL

> Originally Posted by *CoiL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Edit: forgot to ask - does those caps need to be 50V or is higher value also ok?


----------



## Zalgorithm

Yeah, I checked mouser and digikey. I tried just googling a 47uF 50V cap and got mostly 20% tol, though I didn't sift through all the results. I didn't find anything with a better tolerance either. I may try a power electronics engineer I've worked with in the past to see if he has an thoughts.
  
 Manishex, while I think you'll love the he-400, planars vs. dynamics, is preferential. I can't say any one is better than the other, because it's really up to your ears. I was considering the Sennheiser hd-600, but decided on the he-400.
  
 In the end, the only way for you to truly decide what's best, it to try both.


----------



## lwrs10

useless info


----------



## Zalgorithm

> Edit: forgot to ask - does those caps need to be 50V or is higher value also ok?


 
 A higher voltage rated cap can be used in place of the current 50V cap as long as we stay at the same capacitance. Also, they need to physically fit as well.
  
 I think we should, if we have knock off caps, replace them with a Nichicon cap with the 10% tolerance (and same ratings) and see what changes/improves. I don't know who makes a 5% aluminum electrolytic cap, so I think we should start with a better known component rather than search for a hard to find cap.
  
 It's a safe bet to assume (I know, I know, assuming here) that we may have a 20% tolerance cap in there now so it'll probably be worthwhile, to those who want venture down this path, to just try a better quality cap. Thoughts?
  
 Edit- missed a quote.


----------



## Salvatore

coil said:


> Spoiler: Info about Aune T1 FAKE CAPACITORS!
> 
> 
> 
> Or Salvatore may add all this to his useful informative links!


 
  
 Done!


----------



## CoiL

zalgorithm said:


> > Edit: forgot to ask - does those caps need to be 50V or is higher value also ok?
> 
> 
> 
> A higher voltage rated cap can be used in place of the current 50V cap as long as we stay at the same capacitance. Also, they need to physically fit as well.


 
 Thats good because I may find some 5% caps in here but not sure. And size isn`t important for me since I`m doing wooden case for my Aune T1 anyway 
  
 Can anyone tell if those are also worth for changing?
  
 http://ee.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FC1H470/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22Sj5C48xJI9Qf2zEFj9ilUc%3d
  
 http://ee.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FM1V331/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22UdNt2GjTQiN7Aj3y6taJzo%3d
  
 Or are Nichicon only way to go?
  
 Edit: Thanks Salvatore, will update that post with more information later.


----------



## arcorob

mhamel said:


> Capacitor tolerance refers to the capacitance, not voltage.   A 100uF 50V cap is still a 50V cap, at 20% tolerance, it's capacitance could be anywhere from 80uF to 120uF and sill remain in spec.


 
 You are right, I said it backwards...DUH...
  
 I still like to go with tighter tolerances than 20% though..just hard to find...totally frustrating


----------



## lwrs10

No need for anything tighter than 20%. That is pretty much the standard. I updated my post with links to the caps I used in mine.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## arcorob

Guys...DONT ASSUME those are fake. Those caps DO come in smaller sizes. I will show you what I have at home WHEN I get home. You are post FAQ's without being sure...
  
 EDIT: I was right - The ELNA's are part of the ELNA Audio line (thinks that's Cerafine) so not all ELNA's are SLIMACS..and they do come in different sizes...
  
 LESSON: DONT ASSUME


----------



## CoiL

Thought about that also. Why they should be fake? I have also heard of caps with slightly different size manufactured specially for smaller room usage purpose. Aune T1 has quite good reputation and I don`t belive that there are fake units on sale. So who would hassle with cheaper fake caps? Only maybe refurbished units from guarantee service maybe?
  
 But changing to better caps wouldn`t hurt anyway


----------



## lwrs10

useless info


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> There is no assumption on my part. A real Elna Silmic will say Silmic on it everytime. Look it up. The only other one that comes in that black/gold scheme is the Cerafine, and those also say Cerafine on them also.
> 
> The Nichicons I used were the EXACT same size......but weighed more by quite a bit, font was not the same, and the vent stamp was totally different.
> 
> ...


 

 Sorry, but I have to disagree. Not all say SLIMAC, not all say Cerafine, but they can still be ELNA's
  
 As to weight ..are you serious ? Lets not even dignify how you found a weight discrepancy or if it even matters depending on batch, size,etc.
  
 As to the sound...hmmm...All we can say is you heard a difference. Doesn't mean there was one or doesn't mean it would be positive to all. Sound is relative as we have seen from recent tube reviews.
  
 I'll bow out of this conversation. I just think the capacitor bandwagon left the barn before anyone checked the horses. It never hurts to verify.


----------



## lwrs10

The complete Elna catalog.
  
 http://www.elna.co.jp/en/capacitor/pdf/catalog_13_14_e.pdf
  
  
  
 Only one capacitor in there it can be. 47uf 50v 6.3 x 11 audio grade capacitor. RFO series.
  
  
 The power supply caps were not fake, they do not even have a brand on them.
  
  
  
 If anyone would like to attempt a recap of the T1, I highly recommend it. I did it, and it made a difference to me.


----------



## CoiL

I changed post about those "fake" caps and I personally think we should remove this information from useful links and let everyone decide by themselves about those capacitors!

 Quote: 





coil said:


> *This is NOT sure thing yet if there are some Aune T1 with fake capacitors on not as this lacks some information
> and has different opinions!* I recommend everyone to do their own research about those "fake" caps inside Aune T1 and act accordingly. Opening Aune T1 voids warranty and if you don`t know what your are doing - do not do it! If your Aune T1 works without problems and everything sounds ok, there`s no need to start changing components. Although, replacing parts for higher-grade components never do harm.
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## lwrs10

Delete it all. I don't take well to anyone being a dick to me like that. I spent a ton of time researching, measuring, and testing this stuff. Hell I just got done upgrading the transistors in the headphone amp part.
  
  
 But I got the steam knocked out of me, so I am done for now.


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10, don`t take it so seriously. In audio-world there are many different opinions and that`s the way it is. I think no-one is being dick around here.
 I personally would greatly appreciate if you kept sharing those modifications and info! Seriously, don`t take it so harsh 
  
 From my viewpoint, I think those caps are not fake but still, I`m going to change them for better ones when I take my unit apart and do case wood-overhaul ;P
 About those higher current tube types, I decided to keep away from those. Little worried about those components getting hotter. ECC85 will be my higher-current-tubes limit for now, until we have some more ppl running them for awhile and confirming some good tubes. But that`s for everyone themselves to decide what and how to experiment with 
  
 Edit: Actually, looking more into this subject, I`m starting to think they are fake ones!


----------



## Zalgorithm

I think I'm going to attempt to replace some caps in the very near future. I'll keep everyone posted when I do the swap and see what I find. I'll need to put some more hours on my he-400 and pick a tube a like to have a baseline before I do this.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Delete it all. I don't take well to anyone being a dick to me like that. I spent a ton of time researching, measuring, and testing this stuff. Hell I just got done upgrading the transistors in the headphone amp part.
> 
> 
> But I got the steam knocked out of me, so I am done for now.


 

 lwrs..I apologize if my post sounded harsh, I think it did. I forget sometimes that on a forum post it is not conversational where you can see facial expressions or hear inflection. with that said and my apologies...
  
 I am not saying you are WRONG. You may be 100% right .I am just saying, verify. It would not be hard to take the picture and send it to ELNA. And I agree, if they are fake, I don't think AUNE did it purposely. They seem to put some care into the build.
  
 As to sound difference, I am sure you did hear that but think about it for a sake, step back. You have that unit well broken in. Now you change the caps. Of course it will sound different. Unless you don't believe in cap break-in (which is a whole nother can of worms)
  
 Don;t take your toys and go home. Take a step back, know you are appreciated, but when you get tested, see the validity in that test. Should everyone just assume if someone says that's fake, its fake ?
  
 Again my apologies if my post was taken badly...


----------



## mhamel

I've got to agree 100% with lwrs10 on this regarding the prominence of fake caps (and many other parts out there) coming out of China.
  
 He is also correct that Elna caps will have the series name printed on them.
  
 Rob - the top two photos you're using to represent "real" Elna caps are from Web shops in China.   Compare the caps against Elna's own spec sheets.
  
 In many cases, fake caps do indeed weigh less than their real counterparts, due to cheaper and/or less internal materials used.   Not related to the T1, but some large faked electrolytic caps actually have cheap smaller caps soldered inside of the cans that are then imprinted with fake labels.  
  
 There's a Web forum dedicated to helping identify and root some of them them out.   badcaps.net   
  
 I've gotten to the point over the years after seeing so much of it that I just about assume any inexpensive audio product coming out of China is using fake parts.  Caps, resistors, Alps pots, tubes, resistors, op amps, transistors... the list goes on.  DIY forums have posts all the time about people finding fake parts.   I no longer trust any electronic parts on eBay with prices that seem to be bargains whether or not they come out of China, because it's also easy to buy them in bulk and re-sell.  There's plenty of info out there to read about this, it's neither rare nor a false accusation.   In some cases, it can even be dangerous, when parts specified for high voltages or current are faked without appropriate QC/testing.
  
    -Mike


----------



## arcorob

mhamel said:


> I've got to agree 100% with lwrs10 on this regarding the prominence of fake caps (and many other parts out there) coming out of China.
> 
> He is also correct that Elna caps will have the series name printed on them.
> 
> ...


 
 Mike,
  
 I don't disagree..and thanks for the link !
  
 All I was trying to point out (and I did it badly) was before Head-fi started posted all over the internet that AUNE was using fake caps was verify. That's all. Its not that hard. Example, I don't think one could hold a 47uf 50v cap and say "oh this one is lighter" . why do I say that ? Because I have boxes of caps in all shapes and sizes...the one pictured below...47uf 50v...
  
 64 hundredths of a gram .64   so if another was .74 you think it would be discernable without a gram scale ? I don't think so I weighed a Nichicon 1.03, a Rubicon black gate, .82   ..so weight was irrelevant.
  
 NOTHING wrong with upgrading parts ..I wish Janzen made these lol...I have two .1.0uf 800v I paid 27 bucks apiece ...and never used...


----------



## CoiL

After digging more into this subject I`m starting to think that they actually are fake ones. But you never know. Safest thing would be getting some high-grade caps and replace them.
  
 Edit: Any comments on this post?


> Originally Posted by *CoiL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Can anyone tell if those are also worth for changing?
> 
> ...


 
  
 The reason I`m asking is that it seems to be only sensible option from electronics dealer in my town & country. Ordering from mouser would cost me 40€ posting cost which is INSANE! LOL ;D
  
 Edit: Also, can anyone of you smarter guys tell how the ripple current in specifications affects outcome? Or is it irrelevant?


----------



## lwrs10

I never compared weight in my hands. Not my first time trying to identify fake caps, so I got my scale out. Which is the exact same one you have.
  
 I will take pics of the ones that came out of the Aune on the scale, and the exact same rating/size/brand ones I put in on the scale. It was not a small difference. You also have to account for the full leads on the new cap when measured. When you install them, weigh the clipped leads then subtract that weight.
  
  
 I even have a capacitor tester I can test these with. Let me drag it out.
  
  
 Rob, if you have extra caps laying around, and have the exp, why not swap them real quick and give your thoughts on the sound after?


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10, just know, your contribution to this thread & Aune T1 is great effort and greatly appreciated!  Any comments on those panasonic caps I linked?


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> I never compared weight in my hands. Not my first time trying to identify fake caps, so I got my scale out. Which is the exact same one you have.
> 
> I will take pics of the ones that came out of the Aune on the scale, and the exact same rating/size/brand ones I put in on the scale. It was not a small difference. You also have to account for the full leads on the new cap when measured. When you install them, weigh the clipped leads then subtract that weight.
> 
> ...


 

 lwrs..wish I had a capacitor tester...I only saw one, once, when a friend checked mine on my Velleman...
  
 If I get a chance this weekend I might take you up on that recap...LOL...Although my PROJECT luck lately is not great...I have to dig through the pile...I do have some new ones but wish I could reuse the Rubycon Black Gates (they were not bad, they were just taken out of my Yamaha M65). Probably not a good idea to use 20 year old caps..lol...or older !
  
 But I do have some low ESR 105* type...I''l look..
  
 BTW..thanks for understanding...


----------



## CoiL

Here are stock capacitor pics from my Aune T1:
  


Spoiler: Aune T1 capacitor pics




  

  


  


  




  
  
 Fakes?
  
 Edit:
 1st pic caps (purple ones) - secondary regulated power supply caps? Those seem to be different from lwrs10 caps but this is probably because my unit being 220V?
  
 And what about all those "wima" style pink/red caps? They are fakes too?


----------



## lwrs10

Not sure why your caps are different values in the power supply. Only difference should be the transformer. Does your transformer say 15-0-15 on the back?
  
  
  
 Those caps will work fine you linked. I would try to find a different 47u 50v one though.


----------



## arcorob

Okay, its settled - TOP RECOMMEND BY ME
 ~~6GM8 ECC86 Tube (GE Label marking) made in HOLLAND - Vintage 1963 - 4.25 Stars **** TOP RATING
  
 I have played with 5 other tubes and this one. This is the winner hands down. The Sylvania was nice, close, but there is just no doubt about this lovely GE Made in Holland but really made in Germany (must have been a Blitzkrieg)
  
 From top to bottom, clear present detail. Lovely bass, mids and vocals where you can literally feel the vocalist breathe, highs so sweet..you could never be fatigued. The sound stage is wide without being false wide and more important, excellent depth. Drums are in the rear, vocalist up front. instruments easy to determine position. Piano decay is perfect - no warble...pure.
  
 I have two more tubes coming but I think I found the one. And here is the ultimate compliment - It is as close to my vinyl rig as I have heard.
  
 Such a simple tube and yet, so beautiful....there is only 1 just like it on the Bay
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-GE-6GM8-ECC86-Grey-Plates-Round-Getter-Date-Code-KC-Tube-TV7-Tested-/201016262023?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2ecd80bd87


----------



## lwrs10

Think I can make these work?


----------



## arcorob

I wouldn't doubt it at all.,..but they might tip over the AUNE..LOL
  
 That's like "Would you like a DAC to go with that tube..."


----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> Okay, its settled - TOP RECOMMEND BY ME
> ~~6GM8 ECC86 Tube (GE Label marking) made in HOLLAND - Vintage 1963 - 4.25 Stars **** TOP RATING
> 
> I have played with 5 other tubes and this one. This is the winner hands down. The Sylvania was nice, close, but there is just no doubt about this lovely GE Made in Holland but really made in Germany (must have been a Blitzkrieg)
> ...


 
 Pity it`s US seller. Too much trouble for me to get into EU ;( Otherwise would take it.
  
 Atm I`m scanning through capacitors and I found a lot of different offers and it`s hard to choose from (Panasonic, saxon, vishay, rubycon). Also is the capacitor "AC ripple current" value (mA) important in case of Aune? It ranges from ~100mA to ~1000mA. Which is better? higher or lower value?


----------



## lwrs10

higher
  
  
 Head-fi needs a chat room...


----------



## CoiL

Thanks!


----------



## spacequeen7

zalgorithm said:


> I think I'm going to attempt to replace some caps in the very near future. I'll keep everyone posted when I do the swap and see what I find. I'll need to put some more hours on my he-400 and pick a tube a like to have a baseline before I do this.


 
 received my 400's today and after listening for only 30min I pretty sure they need 10DB ,they sound way better then 0DB em I right ?
 P.S. got to have velour pads


----------



## lwrs10

Built a tube rolling caddy. Having all these tubes just rolling around on my desk was driving me nuts.


----------



## Salvatore

lwrs10 said:


> Built a tube rolling caddy. Having all these tubes just rolling around on my desk was driving me nuts.


 
  
 Awesome. This is my solution if you haven't seen it yet:


----------



## icecap

mhamel said:


> I've got to agree 100% with lwrs10 on this regarding the prominence of fake caps (and many other parts out there) coming out of China.
> 
> He is also correct that Elna caps will have the series name printed on them.
> 
> ...



Sorry Mike, I very much disagree. Personally I am tired of all the beratings on things Made in China (MIC). The expansion and massive industrialisation that country has done has contributed to the world economy positively in some ways more than the bad rep she deserved. I don't deny the fact there were always cases of counterfeiting and poor human rights management. But come on, those attentions were put up too glaringly in today's media. That's only the tip of the iceberg comparing to what the rest of the population has done things morally that so few even bother commenting.

Buying in bulk and resell is the distriubutors' role. I personally see no wrong in that. If you like the world business to be conducted in wholesale manner, I think you may be missing the point in global economy and consumerism. And most, if not all, electronics have always been a low-cost component which I know you understand. 

I appreciate you do state "and other countries" as well in relating to fakes, but I feel your attempt in trying to put these negativities constructively as not just a China issue, a weak one. Your "just about" assumption of  "any inexpensive audio product coming out of China is using fake parts" is already an accusation of your own. Actually it is not even difficult to find high end quality electronic components from China. If you know Mandarin for communication, it is not surprising how much more that same component is being paid in other countries. Your argument too seemingly had the implication that expensive products from China will be a genuine one. That was rather a contradiction to your earlier posts when you were trying to educate that more expensive products are no means good sounds. 

Please cut eBay some slack. eBay can thrive due to the directness of business dealing AND possibly low cost. There are tonnes of honest eBay sellers.

I hope to sound reasonable as by no means I am targetting you personally as everyone is entitled to their own opinions. However, in such a reputational forum like Head-fi, I think it will be beneficial to keep certain personal and possibly unfair judgements aside which can affect the sales integrity of certain demographies and locations. That can only cloud viewers in decisions makings with a bias.

Still, it is worth applauding for pointing out sites that can aid all of us here to make informed choices on authenticity of electronic components. Thanks for that though!

Well done to those that offers so much time and efforts in sharing the info here too!


----------



## CoiL

Yeah, lets just end this fake capacitor subject and let everyone to decide by themselves. Even if those are fake caps - who cares when Aune T1 still sounds awesome!?! 
 After ~260 pages appreciation of Aune T1, I think this fake caps subject is actually irrelevant. But like I said, there are never something wrong with changing components to higher-grade ones. I will leave that fake caps post up and add some more quotes there later.
  
 Now... any new tubes tried? What about those "pending" tube types I posted? Somebody tried those?


----------



## lwrs10

I forgot to post the capacitor test.

1. Main supply caps.
 These are labelled Elna and rated at 3300uf at 25v. They passed capacitence and esr test with flying colors.

2. Secondary supply caps.
 These had no name and were rated at 330uf at 35v. One measured 198uf, and the other 312. They both failed esr.

3. Headphone amp rail voltage caps.
 These are labelled Nichicon, and rated 470uf at 25v. They passed capacitance, one failed esr.

4. Headphone coupling caps.
 These are labelled Elna RFO series and rated 47uf at 50v. They passed capacitance, both were very marginal on esr, but passed.



*EDIT*

I swapped all the caps that came in my Aune back in, and changed them one pair at a time to note sound differences. The new caps I had installed would be considered "broken in" with about 24 hours of run time on them, so that takes that whole argument out of the picture I hope.

1. Secondary supply caps. (330uf 35v).
 Since these were no name and failed ESR and capacitance test, I swapped these first. With the no name ones, the sound leaned towards the "cold" side, especially when using headphones. Changing just these caps to a Nichicon 330uf 50V general purpose 105* rated cap significantly changed the sound. It became much much warmer, and the slight harshness in the treble and the little bit too cold sound went away. Both the headphone and line out sounded much smoother and more balanced. Soundstage opened up, as did midrange detail. The bass quality improved 10 fold. This is exactly what I expected to happen after recapping many vintage receivers with power supply capacitors that measured bad. Cleaner power into the circuit, cleaner sound out.

2. Headphone amp rail voltage caps. (470uf 25V).
 I could not discern a change in sound replacing these with the exact same size/rating/brand capacitor.

3. Headphone amp coupling caps. (47uf 50V).
 I changed these out to Nichicon Muse with the same rating, slightly bigger physical size. This ever so slightly made everything smoother, but other than that I could not pinpoint any other changes. As a rule of thumb, the bigger physical size of a capacitor the better specs it has at the same uf/voltage rating. You can see this just by looking through any spec sheet like this: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/RFO_Series.pdf



So, if anything, change out those secondary supply caps. It was not a slight difference in sound.....it was a HUGE difference. This probably only applies if your Aune has the no name caps like mine did. I have seen 3 different capacitors so far used in this spot from online pics, Coils pics, and mine.


----------



## CoiL

coil said:


> > Originally Posted by *CoiL* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> >
> > Can anyone tell if those are also worth for changing?
> >
> ...


 
 Quote:


lwrs10 said:


> Not sure why your caps are different values in the power supply. Only difference should be the transformer. Does your transformer say 15-0-15 on the back?
> 
> Those caps will work fine you linked. I would try to find a different 47u 50v one though.


 
 Yes, my transformer says 15V-0-15V 250V AC.

 You said that this 330uF cap would work fine but I`m still confused about low impedance & AC ripple current. The one I linked is low impedance but it`s ripple current value is *1790mA*. Can anyone explain me about this AC ripple current and how it`s important in case of Aune T1.
  


lwrs10 said:


> I forgot to post the capacitor test.
> 
> 1. Main supply caps.
> These were labelled Elna, and rated at 3300uf at 25v. They passed capacitence and esr test with flying colors.
> ...


 
 Wow, lot of crap then ;S


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Yes, my transformer says 15V-0-15V 250V AC.
> 
> You said that this 330uF cap would work fine but I`m still confused about low impedance & AC ripple current. The one I linked is low impedance but it`s ripple current value is *1790mA*. Can anyone explain me about this AC ripple current and how it`s important in case of Aune T1.
> 
> Wow, lot of crap then ;S


 
  
  
 I did not understand what you were asking before.
  
 You want the ripple current rating HIGHER. This means it can handle a higher ripple current before it overheats. Usually the better the ESR, the higher ripple it can handle.
  
 For a very good read about this subject, read this.
  
 http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1458


----------



## CoiL

Ok thanks. I already read that link but didn`t understood it well. Also wanted to ask how important is impedance?
 This must be low as possible? This should be ok I guess? > Vishay 470uF 25V low impedance 0.066Ohm > http://www.tme.eu/en/details/mal215056471e3/tht-low-imp-electrolytic-capacitors/vishay/
  
 Or larger one: http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-bc-components/mal213666471e3/cap-alum-elec-470uf-25v-20-radial/dp/1165510
  
 or 3rd option (smallest): http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufr1e471/capacitor-radial-25v-470uf/dp/1800650
  
 Which one of those to prefer? The largest one if room isn`t a problem?


----------



## Zalgorithm

spacequeen7 said:


> received my 400's today and after listening for only 30min I pretty sure they need 10DB ,they sound way better then 0DB em I right ?
> P.S. got to have velour pads


 
 I tried them with 0dB and I had the volume cranked and I wasn't impressed so I decided to try and add some gain they are much better at 10dB. I have the pleathers as well, but I don't want to change pads, tubes, and caps simultaneously without understanding what I like and don't like. Yes, the pleathers get warm after a while, but it's January so I'll deal.
  
 I'll roll tubes for a bit, then try swapping caps, and in the end the velours and maybe the Jerg pads. I may know someone who can test caps not far from where I work and that may help clear things up.


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Ok thanks. I already read that link but didn`t understood it well. Also wanted to ask how important is impedance?
> This must be low as possible? This should be ok I guess? > Vishay 470uF 25V low impedance 0.066Ohm > http://www.tme.eu/en/details/mal215056471e3/tht-low-imp-electrolytic-capacitors/vishay/
> 
> Or larger one: http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-bc-components/mal213666471e3/cap-alum-elec-470uf-25v-20-radial/dp/1165510


 
  
  
 let me read up on it....
  
  
 BTW, I edited my cap test post. It might be worth a read.


----------



## Salvatore

This is very helpful info lwrs10. Coil keep that post #4011 updated as this thing progress.


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> *This is NOT sure thing yet if there are some Aune T1 with fake capacitors on not as this lacks some information
> and has different opinions!* I recommend everyone to do their own research about those "fake" caps inside Aune T1 and act accordingly. Opening Aune T1 voids warranty and if you don`t know what your are doing - do not do it! If your Aune T1 works without problems and everything sounds ok, there`s no need to start changing components. *Although, replacing parts for higher-grade components has the potential to improve the sound.*
> 
> 
> ...


 
 I highlighed and "fixed" the best thing that can be said about all of this.


----------



## CoiL

Yes, will update later. I`m @ work atm and searching for capacitors ;D LMAO


----------



## Salvatore

there's no need to change parts if they are working as intended imo. Sure we can start rolling all the parts for better. Might as well start with the conversion chip lol


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> I forgot to post the capacitor test.
> 
> 1. Main supply caps.
> These were labelled Elna, and rated at 3300uf at 25v. They passed capacitence and esr test with flying colors.
> ...


 
 So, the secondary supply caps that are different on my unit ( Elna 3300uF 25V ), replacing those give most improvement? Are they those largest ones on my pics? Just asking to be sure. 
  


Spoiler: Pics spoiler






coil said:


> Here are capacitor pics from my Aune T1:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Aune T1 capacitor pics


 
  





> Spoiler: Aune T1 capacitor pics


----------



## lwrs10

salvatore said:


> there's no need to change parts if they are working as intended imo. Sure we can start rolling all the parts for better. Might as well start with the conversion chip lol


 
  
 Problem is those secondary caps were not working as intended in mine, and I would be very curious about Coils caps too. They were very low grade no name caps in mine, and looks like in Coils also. The Aune website pics show Nichicon caps in this spot...which obviously not everyone got.
  
 Point of all this is the build quality of the Aune T1 is quite nice. Except for those 2 caps, they were skimped on.
  
  
  
 Coil,
  
 The purple ones in your pics are the ones I am referring to. Yours are even a different value than mine. Yours(470uf 25v). Mine(330uf 35v). Being 220V should not make a difference since the transformer is what steps down the voltage to the same as my 110V unit. Does yours even have a brand on them?


----------



## obesecatfish

Hey, I just got my Aune T1 from the recent drop, and have made the stupid mistake of connecting it to a 220V input (the T1 powerbrick is 110V) and have managed to burn my power supply, but thank God the T1 wasn't connected. Does anyone know the polarity of the 5 pin connectors? And is there anywhere I can get a replacement power brick? Thank you very much.


----------



## lwrs10

obesecatfish said:


> Hey, I just got my Aune T1, and have made the stupid mistake of connecting it to a 220V input (the T1 powerbrick is 110V) and have managed to burn my power supply, but thank God the T1 wasn't connected. Does anyone know the polarity of the 5 pin connectors? And is there anywhere I can get a replacement power brick? Thank you very much.


 
  
  
 email Aune. Bet they will replace it for cheap.


----------



## Salvatore

lwrs10 said:


> Problem is those secondary caps were not working as intended in mine, and I would be very curious about Coils caps too. They were very low grade no name caps in mine, and looks like in Coils also. The Aune website pics show Nichicon caps in this spot...which obviously not everyone got.


 
  
 True. I probably need to check my Aune as well. Smells like false advertisement. Has anyone contacted Aune yet? I'd be curious to hear what they have to say about this.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10...I might just do this one based on your test...seems like the weak link in the chain ! Thanks for doing the anlaysis
  
 ~~1. Secondary supply caps. (330uf 35v). Since these were no name and failed ESR and capacitance test, I swapped these first. With the no name ones, the sound leaned towards the "cold" side, especially when using headphones. Changing just these caps to a Nichicon 330uf 50V general purpose 105* rated cap significantly changed the sound. It became much much warmer, and the slight harshness in the treble and the little bit too cold sound went away. Both the headphone and line out sounded much smoother and more balanced. Soundstage opened up, as did midrange detail. The bass quality improved 10 fold. This is exactly what I expected to happen after recapping many vintage receivers with power supply capacitors that measured bad. Cleaner power into the circuit, cleaner sound out.


----------



## spacequeen7

how hard is it to take Aune a part ? I want to take a look and post some picks for you guys


----------



## arcorob

So in anticipation of some cap swaps (heck why not, I like projects) - ordered these to ensure authenticity - 4 each
  
 4x ELNA Capacitor Cerafine Roa 470uF 25V Audio HIFI US$8.00
  
 4 x PANASONIC FM 330uF 35V cap LOW ESR AUDIO ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR ~~US$4.80
  
 Nice selection at headfishop.com


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> how hard is it to take Aune a part ? I want to take a look and post some picks for you guys


 

 You need a torch and a table saw but after that it is easy...JUST KIDDING...It is easy


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> So in anticipation of some cap swaps (heck why not, I like projects) - ordered these to ensure authenticity - 4 each
> 
> 4x ELNA Capacitor Cerafine Roa 470uF 25V Audio HIFI US$8.00
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thank you


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> salvatore said:
> 
> 
> > there's no need to change parts if they are working as intended imo. Sure we can start rolling all the parts for better. Might as well start with the conversion chip lol
> ...


 
 Thats weird. Ok, we have established that we have different caps on that spot but to which value should I change? 330uF 35V or 470uF 25V? Which is actual original value? That`s confusing! ;S Again, here are my caps on that spot:


  
  
 Can you maybe took better pics from your Aune T1 capacitors on the PCB so I could add them into that fake caps post?
 It would be easier to compare for others and me too. Btw, my caps have additional dark brown/purple marking also, didn`t catch it on the pic. Will take my unit apart again later. Have to do some work also besides Aune T1 madness ;D


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> Thank you


 
 http://www.headfishop.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&inc_subcat=1&search_in_description=1&categories_id=&keyword=330uf+35v
  
 http://www.headfishop.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&inc_subcat=1&search_in_description=1&categories_id=&keyword=470uf+25v
  
  
 You can select each from there (depending on your preference) I chose the Panasonic for one and the ELNA for the other
 Specifically
 ELNA
 http://www.headfishop.com/elna-capacitor-cerafine-roa-470uf-25v-audio-hifi_p825.html
  
 Panasonic
 http://www.headfishop.com/panasonic-fm-330uf-35v-cap-low-esr-audio-electrolytic-capacitor_p978.html


----------



## Salvatore

It would be great if somebody did a DIY guide with pictures showing how to disassemble T1 and change those inferior parts. Arco, lwrs, space, coil... I'm looking at you guys  I'll post some pictures as well when I have the time to open my unit.


----------



## arcorob

I am sure someone will beat me to it but just FYI, whenever I do a project like this, I always take pictures and post
  
 Like this turntable thread I am doing
 http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=565611


----------



## CoiL

will open my unit hopefully tonight again but first going to make ´how to clean tube pins guide´ and test these tubes briefly I got today:

  
 They cost me 4£ total, post included ;D PCC189 seems to be relabeled Tungsram PCC189, two different PCC85 (one is Mullard Blackburn) and one PCC89 Mullard from 60` (not sure it`s pin-out is ok to use, got to check). They all seem to be NOS and unused.
  
 Edit: checked - PCC89 pinout is different and it requires socket mod. But it should work flawless since it is 7.5V and 300mA.


----------



## spacequeen7

here they are ...any one of them should be replaced ?


----------



## lwrs10

Space, you have the same secondary caps that I do, but your primary supply caps are an offbrand too! In yours I would swap those out for sure!

Was the Aune advertised as having premium caps??

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## arcorob

Spacequeens look good but what are the purple ones ? Also, would you say his ELNA's are knockoff?


----------



## CoiL

spacequeen7, is your unit bought as 110V? You also have same caps on that spot as lwrs10 has. But my caps are different (470uF 25V). Also seems that you have different main power supply caps, we all have them different seems to me (what are your main supply caps values? don`t see it on pic). I`m really interested why we have different values at that secondary power supply caps? And which value should I choose to replace for?!?


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> spacequeen7, is your unit bought as 110V? You also have same caps on that spot as lwrs10 has. But my caps are different (470uF 25V). Also seems that you have different main power supply caps, we all have them different seems to me (what are your main supply caps values? don`t see it on pic). I`m really interested why we have different values at that secondary power supply caps? ;S


 
  
  
 the 110 and the 220 version should NOT have different caps. They use the same voltages inside the Aune.


----------



## CoiL

Yeah, but which value is the "correct" one to change for? *330uF* 35V or *470uF* 25V ? Wonder what caps Salvatore has.


----------



## arcorob

Word of caution to all.
  
 It is easy to change caps, same values. But here is a tip (lwrs will agree)
  
 MARK one side of the caps on the board (+ or minus) so there is NO forgetting which way your new caps go in. Failure to do this makes caps go POOF when powered on, Not pretty
  
 The white stripe ovals and  - are the minus side. If you mark the board where the ORIGINAL white stripe is, you can't be confused LATER when its off the board. It may seem basic (like I know what I am doing). But many an expert has gotten his wires crossed. LITERALLY...LOL


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Yeah, but which value is the "correct" one to change for? *330uF* 35V or *470uF* 25V ? Wonder what caps Salvatore has.


 
  
 The bigger capacitor the better in power supplies...if the power supply can handle the initial charging current upon turn on. Since yours has been using a 470uf, it would be safe to say a 470uf 35v or even 50v would be what I would choose. All this cap does here is filter and provide extra stored current for transients in music. 470>330 in this spot.
  
 BTW, quoted from the Aune website:

  


> *High quality component used:*
> Japan ALPSpotentiometer, German WIMA capacitors, four precision chip resistors, ENLA sound professional electrolytic capacitor, tube socket , USB port, RCA terminals are gold-plated material, full ON voltage regulator devices.


 
  
 This statement has been verified FALSE in 3 different Aune T1's so far.


arcorob said:


> Word of caution to all.
> 
> It is easy to change caps, same values. But here is a tip (lwrs will agree)
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Heed these words. But...the circuit board is already marked thankfully. I just had a momentary lapse of brain function when I installed my secondary caps backwards. And yes they popped in a very loud and scary manner. Flipped my aune over when it happened even. I had the bottom off monitoring temps.


----------



## spacequeen7

lwrs10 said:


> Space, you have the same secondary caps that I do, but your primary supply caps are an offbrand too! In yours I would swap those out for sure!
> 
> Was the Aune advertised as having premium caps??
> 
> Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


 
 which are the primary supply caps that should be replaced ?(sorry for the "noobnes" ) 


> Was the Aune advertised as having premium caps??


 
 don't remember 


arcorob said:


> Spacequeens look good but what are the purple ones ? Also, would you say his ELNA's are knockoff?


 
 there is no name on it ..here are the numbers
 330uF
 35V
 +105CFC
 "M" in a square marking 
  


coil said:


> spacequeen7, is your unit bought as 110V? You also have same caps on that spot as lwrs10 has. But my caps are different (470uF 25V). Also seems that you have different main power supply caps, we all have them different seems to me (what are your main supply caps values? don`t see it on pic). I`m really interested why we have different values at that secondary power supply caps? And which value should I choose to replace for?!?


 
 yes 110v
  


> what are your main supply caps values?


 
 which caps..?


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Spacequeens look good but what are the purple ones ?


 
  
 Nope. His primary AND secondary caps are no name unknown quality.
  
 The purple ones are the secondary supply caps.
  
  
 Quote:


spacequeen7 said:


> which are the primary supply caps that should be replaced ?(sorry for the "noobnes" )


 
  
 The big ones kinda in the middle.
  

  
  
  
  
  
 The units sent out for reviews had quality caps in the secondary supply....Nichicons. The brown caps in these pics:
  
 http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/post/119072/thread


----------



## arcorob

Well for me, replacing 4 caps gives me peace of mind and probably better specs. I will not bother with the head amp caps because I don't and wont be using it.
  
 Special thanks to lwrs for bringing this up and creating a fun an educational project !


----------



## arcorob

BTW..great to hear about the pre-marked board. My Yamaha was like that (major job) and would have been a pain without it.


----------



## CoiL

So, changing caps IS recommended if you know what you are doing! Going to change all caps on my unit for sure. Unfortunately (or not, does it really matter anyway) I`m not going to get ELNA`s or NICHICON`s because my country electrical components stores/dealers/resellers don`t provide them. But there are many good quality caps out there with low ESR and from large official resellers, like those VISHAY`s I linked before.


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> BTW..great to hear about the pre-marked board. My Yamaha was like that (major job) and would have been a pain without it.


 
  
  
 that kinda looks like a M-65.....


----------



## spacequeen7

lwrs10 said:


> The big ones kinda in the middle.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 can you provide link to the caps you would recommend for this replacement ?
 Thank you


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> that kinda looks like a M-65.....


 

 Yup..exactly..one of the sweetest


----------



## CoiL

Those big ones are primary supply caps. You should change those as they seem to be some unknown brand and probably lower values/quality.
  
 The caps that make most difference to sound are secondary supply caps (purple on my & lwrs10 pics). I have 470uF 25V and lwrs10 has those 330uF 35V.
  
 Replacing those to any good quality low ESR & impedance caps (with highest value AC ripple current as you can find) should be enough. Make sure they are at least same value as your stock caps and buy them from authentic dealer/reseller.


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> lwrs10 said:
> 
> 
> > that kinda looks like a M-65.....
> ...





I have a few M-80's I really like myself.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


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## lwrs10

coil said:


> Those big ones are primary supply caps. You should change those as they seem to be some unknown brand and probably lower values/quality.
> 
> 
> 
> ...






 



My primary supply caps are good quality in mine and yours. Space's has offbrands.




I would use a 470uf 35v in all of them for the secondary supply. I will be doing that tonight.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


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## spacequeen7

this is what I'm about to order/replace 
  

 
 4x 
ELNA Capacitor SILMIC II 470uF 35V Silk Audio HIFI 
 4x
Nichicon capacitor MUSE ES bp 47uf 50V Audio Caps BI-POLAR HIFI


----------



## CoiL

Using bi-polar caps is ok? Was going through my ordering options too about 470uF 35V and found 16 options.
  
 lwrs10, how would you line up following specifications by importance in case of Aune T1 capacitors?-> impedance (usually around ~23-68 mOhm), ESR (I think this is also Ohm), ripple current (mA) , temperature (85*C vs 105*C rated temp), lifetime (better ones between 8k-10k hours). Then it would be easier to choose out of all those options I have. There are many brands like Rubycon, Panasonic, Vishay, Nichicon, Samwha. Is there any brand I should definitely prefer or just follow with better specifications?


----------



## Salvatore

I mean s**t. If these caps really affect the sound quality significantly, and we all have different cap combos, it sure as hell affects the tube reviews/synergies we've been working on here. I probably won't be DIYing my T1. If all of you guys come to the conclusion that changing the parts improves the sound significantly I might consider moving on to some other amp. And if I do so that won't be MIC that's for sure.


----------



## spacequeen7

ok ..no BP
 4x ELNA Capacitor SILMIC II 470uF 35V Silk Audio HIFI     
 4x PANASONIC FM 330uF 35V cap LOW ESR AUDIO ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR    
 4x ELNA 47uF 50V SILMIC II RFS Audio Capacitor HI-FI


----------



## CoiL

coil said:


> They cost me 4£ total, post included ;D PCC189 seems to be relabeled Tungsram PCC189, two different PCC85 (one is Mullard Blackburn) and one PCC89 Mullard from 60` (not sure it`s pin-out is ok to use, got to check). They all seem to be NOS and unused.
> 
> Edit: checked - PCC89 pinout is different and it requires socket mod. But it should work flawless since it is 7.5V and 300mA.


 
 Running one of those PCC85 (steel pins inside construction) and it`s much better than that Ei PCC189. Soundstage is big & smooth and has "feel of air" in it, bass is smooth and low, mids are good (female vocals are great), highs are smooth but have enough sparkle. Great tube for sure. Got to burn this and others need to be cleaned and tested yet. So far - already this 1 PCC85 tube is worth lot more than I paid for - superb! ;P Definitely going to compare this with the best out of my tubes.


----------



## lwrs10

salvatore said:


> I mean s**t. If these caps really affect the sound quality significantly, and we all have different cap combos, it sure as hell affects the tube reviews/synergies we've been working on here. I probably won't be DIYing my T1. If all of you guys come to the conclusion that changing the parts improves the sound significantly I might consider moving on to some other amp. And if I do so that won't be MIC that's for sure.




I agree that all of my tube reviews are now invalid. IF and only if your Aune has the ****ty no name caps in it, they need replaced. If you liked the Aune before, just wait until those caps are replaced. It is well worth the effort for how the sound changed in mine.


----------



## lwrs10

spacequeen7 said:


> ok ..no BP
> 4x ELNA Capacitor SILMIC II 470uF 35V Silk Audio HIFI
> 4x PANASONIC FM 330uF 35V cap LOW ESR AUDIO ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR
> 4x ELNA 47uF 50V SILMIC II RFS Audio Capacitor HI-FI





Need to revise that list.

4x ELNA Capacitor SILMIC II 470uF 35V Silk Audio HIFI *Do not use audio grade cap here. This is power supply*
4x PANASONIC FM 330uF 35V cap LOW ESR AUDIO ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR*Change to 470uf 25v non audio *
4x ELNA 47uF 50V SILMIC II RFS Audio Capacitor HI-FI *this is good*

ADD 2x 3300uf 25v non audio to the list, and it has to be the short fat one. When I get home I can list them out for you.


My list. This is basically what I used.

4X http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UFW1H470MED/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3RXRUVU1xXQDobDpAEYxdYs%3d

4x http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UVZ1E471MPD1TD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22YQlrerufNMZmFqDDDWJG1I%3d

4x http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UVZ1V471MPD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cbP6Wf%2fHrkhabfGclQwi7k%3d

4x http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/URZ1V332MRD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cavfLNkWkbIMu8RR6n7lR4%3d


----------



## CoiL

Originally Posted by *lwrs10* /img/forum/go_quote.gif 





> 1. Main supply caps.
> These are labelled Elna and rated at 3300uf at 25v. They passed capacitence and esr test with flying colors.


 
 Sry, but what that "flying colors" means? For me it`s like "they passed" but with flames & whistles - means they blew up ;D  Did I understood wrong? They do not need replacement?
  
 Anyway, can I also use 35V instead 25V in this spot? This for example?-> http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufc1v332/cap-alu-elect-3300uf-35v-can/dp/9692355
 Or does it need to be left 25V?
  
 Edit: seems that 35V in this spot is ok since you also going to get 35V 3300uF caps.
  


> 2. Secondary supply caps.
> These had no name and were rated at 330uf at 35v. One measured 198uf, and the other 312. They both failed esr.


 
 Going to get 470uF 35V for replacement because my unit had 470uF 25V as stock. Did a lot of research and this is what I`m going to get:
 Panasonic FM series 470uF / 35V / 0.019 Ohm impedance / AC ripple current 2180mA / leakage current 0.01µA / 5000 hours @ 105°C / 10x20mm
 http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufm1v471/cap-alu-elect-470uf-35v-can/dp/1219475
 This cap has best specifications out of options available to me. Very tight specs imho.
  


> 3. Headphone amp rail voltage caps.
> These are labelled Nichicon, and rated 470uf at 25v. They passed capacitance, one failed esr.


 
 Once again asking if using higher V in this spot is ok?
 Will the cap mentioned in point 2 fit here too or this must be left @ 25V?
 http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufm1v471/cap-alu-elect-470uf-35v-can/dp/1219475
   
 Quote:


> 4. Headphone coupling caps.
> These are labelled Elna RFO series and rated 47uf at 50v. They passed capacitance, both were very marginal on esr, but passed.


 


> And same question again ;D 63V is ok here?


  
 Btw, why audio grade caps don`t fit for power supply caps? even if they have same value?


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> I agree that all of my tube reviews are now invalid. IF and only if your Aune has the ****ty no name caps in it, they need replaced. If you liked the Aune before, just wait until those caps are replaced. It is well worth the effort for how the sound changed in mine.


 

 This is now shedding light on some things.  Look at my reviews and how they compare. different parts inside ? Some popular tubes, dull.
  
 yet I have a favorite and just received another today that is its equal. Before I show the review and pictures, I am now anxious to open my AUNE but sadly, it must wait until tomorrow. Well, not sadly, its my wife's birthday....LOL
  
*GE Labeled SIEMENS 6AQ8 ECC85 GERMANY - cant make out date code 4.25 Stars ****/*
 This bad boy is amazing, Soundstage impresses you immediately as does the detail. This and my other GE labeled tube will knock your socks off. So why does that one get 4.5 stars and this one 4.25 ? They are very close. The GE 6GM8 marked made in Holland is perfect. Would make anyone happy (depending on your caps? ..lol) So will this 6AQ8 which I think has a tad better soundstage (by a thumbnail) but also just a thumbnail less bass. Really I should rate them both 4.5 but I need more critical listening. I listened to about 12 different type songs and could find no wrong EXCEPT some heavy metal tune by Nickelback and that may be the mastering, I need to check. But all other cuts, gorgeous. Vocals will make your head spin and take notice.


----------



## arcorob

salvatore said:


> I mean s**t. If these caps really affect the sound quality significantly, and we all have different cap combos, it sure as hell affects the tube reviews/synergies we've been working on here. I probably won't be DIYing my T1. If all of you guys come to the conclusion that changing the parts improves the sound significantly I might consider moving on to some other amp. And if I do so that won't be MIC that's for sure.


 

 Salvatore,
  
 What do you get when you cross a chemist and an electrician ? An improved AUNE T1...I am sure you will get the humor.
  
 Okay, DONT give up. First, regardless of the caps, it is a great unit. Especially in its price class. Second, you can bet that a lot of other builds (other companies) are not always using A+ parts. Spend $500 or $600, maybe more surety but under $200 ?
  
 If you need to change the caps and you don't feel capable (not sure of your skill set) it is VERY easy for someone who works on this stuff. Board is easy to remove, easy access to caps. This is a low skill job. And your upgrade cost is about 20 bucks plus whatever you paid someone ($50 ? ) .
  
 If you can use a soldering iron half way decent, you can do it. If not, leave it be,,,it is still good !


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Sry, but what that "flying colors" means? For me it`s like "they passed" but with flames & whistles - means they blew up ;D  Did I understood wrong? They do not need replacement?
> 
> Anyway, can I also use 35V instead 25V in this spot? This for example?-> http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufc1v332/cap-alu-elect-3300uf-35v-can/dp/9692355
> Or does it need to be left 25V?
> ...





Flying colors means they were perfect.


You can put a higher voltage in any of these spots. But, higher voltage normally means bigger size, and it has to fit.


Let me find some reasons why not to use audio caps in the power supply.


----------



## spacequeen7

lwrs10 said:


> Need to revise that list.
> 
> 4x ELNA Capacitor SILMIC II 470uF 35V Silk Audio HIFI *Do not use audio grade cap here. This is power supply*
> 4x PANASONIC FM 330uF 35V cap LOW ESR AUDIO ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR*Change to 470uf 25v non audio *
> ...


 
 thanks ...ordered all the above


----------



## lwrs10

spacequeen7 said:


> thanks ...ordered all the above





Sweet man. I cant wait for someone else to change these caps then get all googly eyed and whatnot when they give it a listen after.



*EDIT*

The more I think about this the more I get pissed off. 

The units sent out for review and the pics posted on the Aune website had proper caps in them. Not some no brand/off brand piles of ****. like we all received. 


Aune as a company just went down quite a few notches in my books. An email is being sent in a few minutes to them. Maybe we can get some answers.


----------



## lwrs10

Here is a copy of the email that was just sent to Aune.



> Hello,
> 
> I purchased the T1 about 8 months ago directly through you on Ebay.com. I have really enjoyed it so far, and recently wanted to swap some tubes into it that had higher heater current than the 6922 tube that it came with. So I took the Aune T1 apart to see how much current the heater circuit can handle, and discovered that some of the capacitors used in mine are of sub par quality.
> 
> ...


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10..so why not the audio grade in the ps ?
  
 I ordered these
  
*4 x ELNA Capacitor Cerafine Roa 470uF 25V Audio HIFI (Cerafine Roa 470uF 25V) = US$8.00 *
  
 4 x PANASONIC FM 330uF 35V cap LOW ESR AUDIO ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR (PANASONIC FM 330uF 35V) = US$4.80
  
 You are saying I should not have ordered these ? what is the impact ? Thanks


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> lwrs10..so why not the audio grade in the ps ?
> 
> I ordered these
> 
> ...





I really do not know. I was told by a wise man not to use audio caps in the power supply filtering section. But after comparing specs to the computer grade and general purpose, they are identical. Hell go for it.


----------



## arcorob

Yeah..I am getting mixed reviews online. One site says its because audio caps and power caps specs have different ripple current specs...better in the non-audio grade...others say it does not matter....sigh...LOL
  
 Low ESR and better ripple current specs seem to go hand in hand...I am going to look at some data sheets..I am not in a hurry because she sounds sweet now...maybe I have real deal...LOL


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Yeah..I am getting mixed reviews online. One site says its because audio caps and power caps specs have different ripple current specs...better in the non-audio grade...others say it does not matter....sigh...LOL
> 
> Low ESR and better ripple current specs seem to go hand in hand...I am going to look at some data sheets..I am not in a hurry because she sounds sweet now...maybe I have real deal...LOL




Take just the bottom off and see. It's only 4 screws.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## arcorob

Okay, here we go. Took the bottom off and not sure I need to change anything
  
*Black Nichicon 470uf 25v *(cant be sure if they are fake but the font looks right)
  
*Lelon 3300uf 25v RXW105C *- Looked these up and they are pretty good series - Low ESR
 ~~ Feature                                                       Temp & Load Life Time  Sleeve Color  
 04 Low Impedance & ESR for SMPS, Ballast   105°C 2000~5000 Hrs    Brown
  
 Only ones suspect in the corner, *Purple 330uf 35v*
  
 sorry for the crappy pictures ...long story but this will change soon...Now that I see, I think I may not change anything or if I do, just the purple


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Okay, here we go. Took the bottom off and not sure I need to change anything
> 
> *Black Nichicon 470uf 25v* (cant be sure if they are fake but the font looks right)
> 
> ...





Lelon caps are garbage and bottom of the barrel. Kinda like the Soundesign of capacitors.

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9216

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=388


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Lelon caps are garbage and bottom of the barrel. Kinda like the Soundesign of capacitors.
> 
> http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9216
> 
> http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=388


 

 well it would not kill me to buy a set of the 3300


----------



## arcorob

Okay, ordered the Nichicon 3300 25v
  
 Already had ordered the Panasonic 330uf 35v low esr
  
 I did order the ELNA 470uf 25 before but maybe just leave the existing Nichicon's in there or are the ELNA's better ? Sheesh..


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Okay, ordered the Nichicon 3300 25v
> 
> Already had ordered the Panasonic 330uf 35v low esr
> 
> I did order the ELNA 470uf 25 before but maybe just leave the existing Nichicon's in there or are the ELNA's better ? Sheesh..




15 minute job to swap them.....why not try both?


----------



## Salvatore

arcorob said:


> Salvatore,
> DONT give up. First, regardless of the caps, it is a great unit. Especially in its price class.
> 
> If you can use a soldering iron half way decent, you can do it. If not, leave it be,,,it is still good !


 
  


lwrs10 said:


> 15 minute job to swap them.....why not try both?


 
  
 It's not that I don't like my T1. I love it. It's just that I feel like being majorly fu**ed by this company. If we all had the same inferior parts I wouldn't be as pissed, but now we need to add cap list to our tube reviews. Well good tubes are still good tubes but the synergies will be affected. I've been spreading good word of how nice this unit is just to discover this. I would have been much happier without knowing (this being said I'm very glad that lwrs brought this issue to our attention). Around €300 spend on tubes and that's only because I really like T1. I don't own or have access to soldering tools so if I want to replace any parts I need to consult an electrician that has the tools and know how. Well like I said I'll wait for your impressions first. T1 still beats many rivals in same and higher price point. I would, for example, take T1 over dacmagic any day.


----------



## slovetro

So I am now I'm Hong Kong and after not checking this thread for a few days I see a new development: caps! I am just going to completely avoid that discussion for now though. I leave to the Philippines on Wednesday and need to figure out this voltage problem before I leave. 

My problem, for those who don't know, is that i bought my T1 while i was in the states, but since i plan to be traveling for the next few years, i need to find a way to safely power my t1 using 220v outlets. 

Does anyone know the wattage output of the T1? Because I have a converter that I would like to use, but it has two different options, low and high, low is used for "(0-25 watts) electric shavers, radios, curling irons, etc." High is used for "(26-2000) high wattage appliances such as hair dryer, irons, steamers, etc."

This power converter is described as a dual wattage converter and reads, "input:220-240VAC output:110-120VAC" I asked a few people who work in shops in one of the electronic districts here today and most said that this converter on the low setting, would work fine. One person said I should use the high setting. I want to go with the majority if people I met today who say I should try it on the low setting, but I wanted to put the question to the thread first. Do you think this would work? Would there be any damage to the device? Would sound quality be lost by using a converter? Should I only use aune brand adaptors? (I write them an email about this problem but they haven't gotten back to be yet)


----------



## slovetro

Lots of typos, sorry about that, bear with me and my phone. 

Thanks for the help people. This is a very generous and helpful group.


----------



## arcorob

salvatore said:


> It's not that I don't like my T1. I love it. It's just that I feel like being majorly fu**ed by this company. If we all had the same inferior parts I wouldn't be as pissed, but now we need to add cap list to our tube reviews. Well good tubes are still good tubes but the synergies will be affected. I've been spreading good word of how nice this unit is just to discover this. I would have been much happier without knowing (this being said I'm very glad that lwrs brought this issue to our attention). Around €300 spend on tubes and that's only because I really like T1. I don't own or have access to soldering tools so if I want to replace any parts I need to consult an electrician that has the tools and know how. Well like I said I'll wait for your impressions first. T1 still beats many rivals in same and higher price point. I would, for example, take T1 over dacmagic any day.


 

 LOL...I hear you
  
 TEAM ...LETS ALL STEP BACK A MOMENT (gee Rob, the voice of reason ?? ) lol
  
 There is no NEED to change the parts in this unit. Out of the box it is pretty awesome. The caps in it may not be caps that 25 years from now are still ticking but those are the days we live in, a disposable society. Gone are the days of amps and equipment that worked on the late 60's still working good as new today.
  
 My own experience, the unit is dead quiet, no gain hiss, no hum, is clearly articulate in presentation an very tailorable using various tubes to suit your system and preferences. It is by itself, regardless of capacitor type, a well made unit.
  
 Now we have Lwrs10 who has graciously put the AUNE T1 through its paces and based on his very high knowledge of electronics, determined it could be better. Okay, but lets quantify that for a moment. Better how ?
  
 Well, for one thing, better caps might last longer. But if they only last 10 years vs 25, is that an issue?
  
 Another is he heard a distinctive sound difference? Okay, how distinctive? (not questioning you lwrs, I am making a point only)
 10% Difference? 5% ? 1%?
  
 I ask this because in things related to audio, sometimes it could be very high in cost just to gain a 1% difference (especially in high end). Would you put a $100 USB and $200 RCA's on your $159 AUNE ? (I hope not)
  
 So what is my point?
 If you had never heard about a tweak on the AUNE with the caps, you would still be loving the unit and enjoying what it does. Many of us ARE tweaker's (not to be confused with Miley Cyrus twerking)  and LWRS  is in my opinion a very knowledgeable and high-end tweaker. He can change parts and do analysis the way you or I would change a lightbulb. But that doesn't mean this is a "Only sounds good if you change the caps" product. Not at all.
  
 There are products out there you can buy that ONLY sound good if you do mods to them. Some Cambridge phono stages for example (no disrespect to the Cambridge owners). The AUNE is not one of those .Like I said, if all this thread ever talked about was tube rolling, all would be well.
  
 Will I change mine ? Sure, but not because I am expecting much better sound. In fact, recaps I have done in the past netted me peace of mine against aging caps and sound difference was pretty much undetectable (the M65 for example). Nope, I am changing mine because 1) I CAN 2) I love tweaking projects so I am grateful to Lwrs for the fun !!
  
 Be at peace with your AUNE...LOL


----------



## lwrs10

Rob, 

I agree with your post mostly. Only thing that really bothers me is some caps in this thing were bad, as in did not meet the specs printed on the side. 

Will this cause a problem? Probably not for most people. Most people will be very happy without touching a thing. A friend of mine has been using his for about 6 months and knows nothing about high end audio and loved it. When I suggested he change the tube, he asked why, it sounds great right now. After a bit of "peer pressure", I got him to buy the same ECC85 I was using. He was very sceptical about it, but he received the tube yesterday. After an hour of listening to the new tube, it was a wall of text from him on his he cannot believe how much better it sounds. He was quite content on the EH6922, and it totally blew his mind that you could make it sound better.

Bet 90% of T1 owners are just like this.

I, on the other hand, am like a drug addict. I have tasted the other side with quite a bit of equipment, and always look for that "fix". That's what led to all if this. 

If you are happy with the way yours sounds, then keep it exactly the way it is. Once you upgrade anything, there will always be a thought in the back of your head....."wonder if I can make it even better....".


To sum this all up, if you are happy with the way it is, stay content and forget about the last few pages. 

If you are like me and love to tinker, by all means have fun, and I will continue to tweak this Aune T1 and provide that "ear crack" for the other addicts out there like me.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## Salvatore

Like I said I'll be waiting for more impressions. I'm not too concerned about the actual parts inside since my T1 sounds very good. It's just that we don't know what caps we have and if they really have noticeable effect to the sound it could really mess this tube rolling thing we've been having here.
  
 E: Seems like there is no love towards Cambridge here, lol


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> I, on the other hand, am like a drug addict. I have tasted the other side with quite a bit of equipment, and always look for that "fix". That's what led to all if this.
> 
> 
> If you are like me and love to tinker, by all means have fun, and I will continue to tweak this Aune T1 and provide that "ear crack" for the other addicts out there like me.
> ...


 
 LOL..I am with you. I have been a vinyl rig tweaker like crazy and also tube amp tweaker...now I have a new toy to "play with" so very appreciative of what you have provided, really. I can't help it because I think I enjoy the playing %60 and the music %40 (the music verifies my tweaking).
  
 I started my recent turntable project not because I needed another one but because I just needed something to play with...
  
 Again our thanks. I just wanted to be sure people didn't get the impression that the AUNE was bad unless tweaked..it is very good..your help just makes it super excellent...


----------



## arcorob

salvatore said:


> Like I said I'll be waiting for more impressions. I'm not too concerned about the actual parts inside since my T1 sounds very good. It's just that we don't know what caps we have and if they really have noticeable effect to the sound it could really mess this tube rolling thing we've been having here.
> 
> E: Seems like there is no love towards Cambridge here, lol


 
 Try one of these
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/6AQ8-ECC85-GE-Germany-NOS-/261196583816?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd0879388
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-6AQ8-ECC-85-TUBE-NOS-/121188563068?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item1c3766b87c
  
 As to Cambridge, the phono stages are not bad units, its just in my phono stage testing they were dull. Seems mine was not the only opinion and a member of AK has some mods (level 1 and level 2) to make them sound great. But unlike the AUNE, if you HAVE To tweak to make it sound good, I don't want it.
  
 Sort of like the infatuation with the little bear amp. The buyers admit it comes with a built in hum and issues, but if you do this, that and the other thing, its great. Not for me.


----------



## lwrs10

Just one more thing....

Most people would agree the T1 has a hard time driving the 600 ohm headphones. Changing those out of spec caps added quite a bit of "umph" or power or whatever you call it on the higher impendece headphones. Since the out of spec caps were the power supply reserve, if are bad the amp will fall on it's face trying to drive headphones like this.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## spacequeen7

we are talking about pretty easy/cheap upgrade here that could possibly make  "noticeable" difference for some  ...crap I'm prepped not to noticed any difference but I trust some of you here and willing to give it a shot ,this unit is worth $20 upgrade hands down ...for crying out loud guys, look how much some of us spending on tubes !?..I don't want to second guess myself down the road "what if ",I enjoy T1 and will pimp my ride


----------



## lwrs10

I should make an all in one how to post titled "Pimp My Aune".

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## Salvatore

arcorob said:


> Try one of these
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/6AQ8-ECC85-GE-Germany-NOS-/261196583816?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd0879388
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-6AQ8-ECC-85-TUBE-NOS-/121188563068?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item1c3766b87c


 
  
 Tempting, but I promised myself not to buy tubes anymore. I have too many already 
  


lwrs10 said:


> I should make an all in one how to post titled "Pimp My Aune".


 
  
 Sounds awesome. I won't even consider doing anything to my T1 before such guides. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Rem0o

It's so funny how Aune marketed "good quality electronic parts" but in fact use generic chinese/whatever components. Kinda ruins their credibility to me.

 Good find, lwrs10.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> I should make an all in one how to post titled "Pimp My Aune".
> 
> Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


 
 Now that would be cool !!!
  
 We could have parts changes, wood cases, tye dye paint jobs...flames, stripes...LOL


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> we are talking about pretty easy/cheap upgrade here that could possibly make  "noticeable" difference for some  ...crap I'm prepped not to noticed any difference but I trust some of you here and willing to give it a shot ,this unit is worth $20 upgrade hands down ...for crying out loud guys, look how much some of us spending on tubes !?..I don't want to second guess myself down the road "what if ",I enjoy T1 and will pimp my ride


 

 And the first song played after the upgrade will be "Catch me ridin' dirty"....


----------



## arcorob

salvatore said:


> Tempting, but I promised myself not to buy tubes anymore. I have too many already


 
 Yes, but you will SELL the rest after one of these...LOL
  
 Hey, anyone in EU who you could send yours to on this board that would do it for you ? I would but being in Seattle, WA USA , shipping both ways might be a bit pricey.
  
 How about it head-fi'ers?


----------



## MrEleventy

This is why I believe that HF is against sites like _[Removed]_. Sure it's "beneficial" to the consumers because we're buying in quantity so it'll be cheaper but it might also be cheaply made. The manu will have to produce those units unless they have stock in hand. What if they don't have the available parts in hand to accommodate the order? Then they'll need to shift to cheaper parts because it's a large order and they can't wait for their usual shipment of good parts. So lower quality stuff makes it in. As a consumer we get a buggier product. Prior to them appearing on _[Removed]_, these things didn't break like that. Now, more of them are DOA or within a week. I don't think it's a mere coincidence and it's why I don't buy from _[Removed]_ or Groupon/etc. Good idea in the short term but terrible all around in the long run. Just my .02 cents. *rant off*


----------



## MrEleventy

What I'm saying is that companies chasing money like that causes quality of product to go down.


----------



## BenWaB3

I ordered one of these this past Sunday sold by Shenzhenaudio & fulfilled by Amazon. Is Shenzhen the official AUNE company or a go between? I would have had a lot of second thoughts about it if I had known of this issue before ordering. I'll just hope for the best.
  
 Ben


----------



## lwrs10

benwab3 said:


> I ordered one of these this past Sunday sold by Shenzhenaudio & fulfilled by Amazon. Is Shenzhen the official AUNE company or a go between? I would have had a lot of second thoughts about it if I had known of this issue before ordering. I'll just hope for the best.
> 
> Ben




I would not consider it an issue. Just more room for upgrading.


----------



## MrEleventy

The latest one was at least the 3rd or 4th time Aune has put the T1 on MD. The initial one was back last year in May/June and shortly after, ppl came on here complaining about buzzing in their units or how their units wouldn't even power on.


----------



## Bleuburd

Just got my Aune T1 from ebay; I don't know if this is normal, but mine came with an electro harmonix tube! Pretty sweet deal!


----------



## lwrs10

mreleventy said:


> The latest one was at least the 3rd or 4th time Aune has put the T1 on MD. The initial one was back last year in May/June and shortly after, ppl came on here complaining about buzzing in their units or how their units wouldn't even power on.




Mine was bought before, and still has offbrand capacitors in it.


----------



## MrEleventy

What point are you trying to get at? Are you saying that it's not MD and it's just Aune? Because I'm at a loss at what you're trying to address.


----------



## isendono

To be honest , I think Aune's been using off brand capacitor knowingly. I would like to change the capacitors to better ones, but I don't think I have to skill to do it myself, so.....whatever :u since it's not the end of the world for me.


----------



## lwrs10

mreleventy said:


> What point are you trying to get at? Are you saying that it's not MD and it's just Aune? Because I'm at a loss at what you're trying to address.





Yes


----------



## CoiL

isendono said:


> To be honest , I think Aune's been using off brand capacitor knowingly.


 
 I think so too. C`mon guys, look at the price of this unit and what awesome sound you get it for! Even if some few caps are un-branded - who really cares if it sounds awesome? I actually do not care but tube rolling and pimping my Aune T1 is kind of hobby for me and "pumping it to max" is just even more fun! 
  
 One thing I don`t get in general - making Aune T1 with some quality caps is pretty cheap imho. Why didn`t they go for better ones? It doesn`t make any noticeable difference in price.


----------



## MrEleventy

lwrs10 said:


> Yes


Ok cool. We're on the same chapter at least.


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> I think so too. C`mon guys, look at the price of this unit and what awesome sound you get it for! Even if some few caps are un-branded - who really cares if it sounds awesome? I actually do not care but tube rolling and pimping my Aune T1 is kind of hobby for me and "pumping it to max" is just even more fun!
> 
> One thing I don`t get in general - making Aune T1 with some quality caps is pretty cheap imho. Why didn`t they go for better ones? It doesn`t make any noticeable difference in price.





Just took my Aune X1 apart, and every cap in it is high quality.


----------



## lwrs10

Just a small teaser of some testing I am doing.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## BenWaB3

Considering the controversy on the caps, how high are the chances that the Alps pot is counterfeit too?


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> Just a small teaser of some testing I am doing.


 
 Are you experimenting X1 amp part in place of Aune T1?
   
 Quote:


benwab3 said:


> Considering the controversy on the caps, how high are the chances that the Alps pot is counterfeit too?


 

 This seems to be legit. At least I couldn`t detect it being different from original.


----------



## jason1969

In some ways I am not surprised.
  
 Someone at Aune doing Value Engineering - swap parts to cheaper until the sound suffers (UK was good at this from TVs to art students from cambridge creating socio-economic policy, until the economy collapsed!).
  
 Dishonestly, they are falsifying trade technical specification which is against UK law (and no doubt most in the world). This may be ignorance or simply not updating specs - will be interesting to see if Aune update specs accordingly.
  
 What Aune SHOULD have done is create a new "Classic" model at the lower price point, keeping the original Aune T1 at its original price. That is good capitalistic business, rather than a VERY common china company trick of supplying compliant as sample unit and an inferior item as production unit.
  
  
 I presume cap swapping is simple through the board, non-temp controlled off the shelf decent tip Antex soldering iron job? I ask because I sold my temp controlled stuff long ago when winding up a business using it.
  
 I am not sure the FAQ lists the "caps no longer meet brand spec AND do not pass basic tests". Not passing basic tests is actually very significant - ok, it is not a PC which will crash, but it is a real shoddy QC and eventual lifespan issue. Bad caps are bad caps, simple as that. I presume the chips are genuine - you can emboss/print whatever you want on anything?


----------



## CoiL

Okay, made my order on caps:
  
 1. Main power supply caps: http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufr1e332/capacitor-radial-25v-3300uf/dp/1800661
 2. Secondary power supply caps & headphone amp rail voltage caps: http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufm1v471/cap-alu-elect-470uf-35v-can/dp/1219475
 3. Headphone coupling caps. For this I couldn`t decide (because AM series lacks some datasheet information to compare) and took both:
 http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eca1ham470x/capacitor-47uf-50v/dp/8767408 and http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufr1h470/capacitor-radial-50v-47uf/dp/2217571
  
 Went through lot of options and data comparing. I ended up with all caps being Panasonic - they had best specs from options available to me (and there were quite a lot of them). Always had good experience with Panasonic products & quality 
  
 Hope these do better than stock caps! Have to wait about 2 week for them to arrive.


----------



## teb1013

coil said:


> I think so too. C`mon guys, look at the price of this unit and what awesome sound you get it for! Even if some few caps are un-branded - who really cares if it sounds awesome? I actually do not care but tube rolling and pimping my Aune T1 is kind of hobby for me and "pumping it to max" is just even more fun!




Well put. My T1 sounds great, whatever caps it has. Also, unlike many of you, I don't have the experience, or nerve to mess around inside equipment. Tube rolling is all I can handle!


----------



## HeavenNotes

I love listening music with my T1 ...


----------



## CoiL

HeavenNotes, is it ECC85? What tube exactly? Impressions? Well, I can already see your smiley-sea  Running that Pinnacle PCC85 myself mentioned earlier and I`m really loving it, actually, it stands strong against my Amperex OG GAC & Ultron SQ PCC189 and might even be better. Haven`t had time to compare.


----------



## HeavenNotes

coil said:


> HeavenNotes, is it ECC85? What tube exactly? Impressions? Well, I can already see your smiley-sea  Running that Pinnacle PCC85 myself mentioned earlier and I`m really loving it, actually, it stands strong against my Amperex OG GAC & Ultron SQ PCC189 and might even be better. Haven`t had time to compare.


 
  
 Hello
  
 Yes, it is an ECC85.   I have to say my Amperex 7308 Gold pin  is so so so far away better sound.


----------



## HeavenNotes

heavennotes said:


> Hello
> 
> Yes, it is an ECC85.   I have to say my Amperex 7308 Gold pin  is so so so far away better sound.


 
  
 I received the ECC85 today and IMO is dark for for my taste.  Sound stage is no so good. 
  
*Update after cleaning the pins*:  Oh boy ... the sound is very close to the Amperex 7308  and I bought this Telefunken Tube  used for 12 $  .  It has less sound stage.  It is a warmer sound.


----------



## CoiL

What ECC85 is it? Same Mullard ECC85 that lwrs10 recommended?


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> What ECC85 is it? Same Mullard ECC85 that lwrs10 recommended?




I would need a better pic of the tube, but doesnt look like it.


----------



## HeavenNotes

lwrs10 said:


> I would need a better pic of the tube, but doesnt look like it.




Hello 

It is a Telefunken brand


----------



## CoiL

Can you see any etched code on glass?


----------



## HeavenNotes

coil said:


> Can you see any etched code on glass?


 
  
 Hello
  
 I only can read this


----------



## CoiL

NB! Everybody who are using higher voltage/current tubes - make sure you clean your NOS tube pins properly!!! I tried this other PCC85 I got (different build from earlier mentioned PCC85) and without cleaning pins it sounded crackly and distorted. After cleaning - works like a charm!


----------



## HeavenNotes

coil said:


> NB! Everybody who are using higher voltage/current tubes - make sure you clean your NOS tube pins properly!!! I tried this other PCC85 I got (different build from earlier mentioned PCC85) and without cleaning pins it sounded crackly and distorted. After cleaning - works like a charm!


 

 Thank you for the suggestion. 
  
 What technic did you use it to clean tube pins?
  
 Thanks in advance.


----------



## manishex

Yea my telefunken ECC85 i got off ebay has way too much distortion


----------



## HeavenNotes

I found this one.


----------



## CoiL

...


----------



## lwrs10

all that is wayyyyyyyyy too much work.



Pencil eraser. Poke a hole in the middle of it, spin it around each pin a few times, done.






manishex said:


> Yea my telefunken ECC85 i got off ebay has way too much distortion





let it play for about an hour, and it will come around.


----------



## HeavenNotes

coil said:


> strong 30% spirit vinegar + baking soda
> 
> Here is a little guide I made. It might not give you so good result as mini-polishing machines etc. but it`s with little hassle and all you need for it is probably in your kitchen/bathroom.
> Also, it doesn`t take so much of your busy time, just leave it for ~30min and then wash excess "coating" off and clean with alcohol. Even better result if you burn tube for ~10min after cleaning and repeat process once more.
> ...


 
  
  
 Thank you so much!!!  I did it with my nail machine.
  

  
 And I finished it with the vinegar.


----------



## HeavenNotes

coil said:


> NB! Everybody who are using higher voltage/current tubes - make sure you clean your NOS tube pins properly!!! I tried this other PCC85 I got (different build from earlier mentioned PCC85) and without cleaning pins it sounded crackly and distorted. After cleaning - works like a charm!


 

  Oh boy ... oh boy ... you were 100% right  ... the sound JUMPED UP after cleaning the pins  !!!!!!   A big smile in my face !!!!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
 Thank you


----------



## CoiL

Do NOT use hard-polishing tips! It will thinner those pins and micro-shape! If using polishing machine - use felt or rubber tips!


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> all that is wayyyyyyyyy too much work.


 
 Imho no. It`s easy. And rubber pencil wont remove corrodation/oxidation in way acid+soda does 
 Maybe it just seems so much work because I made this guide too much step-by-step. If you have no special tools for polishing - it`s best way by my practice.
  
 Btw, this method can be used to clean *multiple tubes at once*! 
  


heavennotes said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > NB! Everybody who are using higher voltage/current tubes - make sure you clean your NOS tube pins properly!!! I tried this other PCC85 I got (different build from earlier mentioned PCC85) and without cleaning pins it sounded crackly and distorted. After cleaning - works like a charm!
> ...


 

 Enjoy!


----------



## arcorob

I have been without internet all day so this will be short and sweet. Pin cleaning same as rca's, pots, etc. Use deoxit.

headphone amp tested today. It sucks ass (and I am being kind). All my tests have been through my main rig, speakers and sub. So that may account for the difference in ratings.

I received a Millard 6AQ8 today..yuck too.

more revelations later..cans used for testing were senn 280hd..i get better sound right out of the tablet instead of the dac head amp..


----------



## CoiL

arcorob, are you talking about using Aune T1 in Pure Headphone Amp mode with RCA input? With DAC+tube it`s pretty ok sounding, little bright sided though.


----------



## lwrs10

heavennotes said:


> Oh boy ... oh boy ... you were 100% right  ... the sound JUMPED UP after cleaning the pins  !!!!!!   A big smile in my face !!!!
> 
> Thank you





It sounds pretty good now eh?




arcorob said:


> I have been without internet all day so this will be short and sweet. Pin cleaning same as rca's, pots, etc. Use deoxit.
> 
> headphone amp tested today. It sucks ass (and I am being kind). All my tests have been through my main rig, speakers and sub. So that may account for the difference in ratings.
> 
> ...






Something is not right. The headphone amp in this thing is pretty decent.


----------



## arcorob

Hey guys.. Like I said, deoxit and the press the pins in a Mr. Clean magic eraser a few times. Clean. Then I use the deoxit gold to protect

lets..scratching my head too. Used USB in from surface, headphone out. No bass at all. Using the same headphones straight in to PC or tablet, full sound. 

and you know I love the aune USB in, RCA out to system and speakers...more tests later

and I hate using my phone to post....lol


----------



## CoiL

arcorob, consider that everybody don`t have deoxit at home and don`t bother buying it. "Deoxit" can be found in kitchen/bathroom too, like in my guide


----------



## arcorob

I guess its about choices. My way costs like $25 for a supply that will last quite a while, no mess and takes 3 minutes. Cleanup is put the cap back on.

found the headphone problem. It appears it prefers my surface to be at 50% and let the aune amp work. So I was feeding too much signal..strange..lots of new tests to do..headphone test vs speaker testing


----------



## lwrs10

and to add to this....


4 days now on the 6H30Pi, and it is still king even after all the cap changes. No excessive heat, no issues, no problems. 


This is king of the mountain right now.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> and to add to this....
> 
> 
> 4 days now on the 6H30Pi, and it is still king even after all the cap changes. No excessive heat, no issues, no problems.
> ...


 

 Hello, you said you didn;t have to do anything except plug this in, right ? What do you like about this tube above others ? Thanks


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Hello, you said you didn;t have to do anything except plug this in, right ? What do you like about this tube above others ? Thanks





Direct plug in.


It has more warmth, detail, body, soundstage, etc than all the other tubes i have tried. I have not spent much time with other tubes since the recap, but all the brief times i did all this still holds true.


----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> I guess its about choices. My way costs like $25 for a supply that will last quite a while, no mess and takes 3 minutes. Cleanup is put the cap back on.


 
 Don`t take following personally but I call it consumerism with lots of brain-lazyness. People nowdays do not think about using what they already have. They are like robots pre-coded only to buy buy buy. Although, I think in general typical educational system there is lot of BS that is forced into your head and do not actually need in real life, there is still much you could use to keep your money and *use/re-use that little you already have*. In this case basic school chemistry (btw I sucked at chemistry lol). It isn`t hard to open kitchen cupboard and take 2 things, mix them together and put the tube with re-using your junk-paper/carton in it. Honestly, my method took me too only few minutes (not counting ~30min while tubes soak, I did other things meanwhile). Think, move and use your brain and skills you`ve been given! Don`t just waste it. Heck, you could teach some useful things to your kids maybe? Also you could clean your stuff this way, keep that 25$, go out on street and give it to someone who really needs this money (or maybe to some local charity)! Now, think about it - you`ve *used your* "useless" *skills*, *teached something to someone*, *re-used your junk* and *helped someone* *who is in lot worse situation in life that you are* - isn`t it all positive? By buying deoxit - you have given away your money to corporative system, fed chemical production, polluted nature by it, done no good to anyone, wasted time to shopping,teached nothing to nobody - isn`t it all negative?
 Yes, it`s about choices and people should really step away from their comfort-lazy-zone and start to think further than their noses.
  
 Just my little thoughts in this morning 
  
 Edit:
  
 Btw, I looked up some information about those stock main power supply caps and I couldn`t find that size (physical) RJB type Elna capacitor in Elna 2013 catalog.
 It could just be cap from older catalog/production but maybe fake one too? Anyway compared elna cap specs to this Panasonic FR series (new) cap that I ordered and latter has better specs. Probably won`t make difference but I feel lot better knowing my Aune T1 has quality caps in it  Will take pictures when I open my Aune T1 again and make a short "guide" how to take Aune T1 apart.


----------



## magusunltd

I've tried quite a few tubes so far (mostly Holland and USA)... and by far my favorite seems to be an Amperex 6922 PQ (USA). Totall owns the bugle boy and an Amperex 1960s RCA tube (with halo getter made in Holland).


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> Don`t take following personally but I call it consumerism with lots of brain-lazyness. People nowdays do not think about using what they already have. They are like robots pre-coded only to buy buy buy.


 
 Actually, I did take it personally.
  
 I will say it again. Its about choice and preference. Its not lazy brain consumerism or not using what I have which is how you labeled my method. I gave people another method, just different than yours, which is what these posts are about.
  
 There are plenty of things I do that are the long way with household or reusable materials and others I do using consumer products. It is MY choice and does not make me LESS THAN.
  
 Nuff said


----------



## CoiL

It`s your ego who took it personally, not you  Like I told, don`t take personally, these were my early morning thoughts about ppl being easy-lazy. Just something offtopic to make ppl think more 
 It wasn`t about you or your method, or my method. Just some thoughts.


----------



## lwrs10

Someone has never discovered how wonderful deoxit is! And Rob would probably already have it laying around from other uses since he likes vintage stereo equipment, so there was nothing lazy about it. 

I think saying using deoxit is lazy was quite uncalled for. Do you churn your own butter, or just buy it?


----------



## arcorob

Lwrs10...Not sure if I posted, but found the problem...was not the amp per se. It seems I had to reduce the signal OUT from the Surface tablet (which I thought strange) but at 50% and using the AUNE, it does sound great !! Didn't I post this last night or is this Deja Vu? LOL
  
 BTW.,.I ordered one of these just to try - I had a REAL HARD TIME deciding between the EH and the SOVTEK. so I will try the SOVTEK first and if I need warmth, will try the EH
 ~~Sovtek 6H30Pi EB Cryo Single Super Tube


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Someone has never discovered how wonderful deoxit is! And Rob would probably already have it laying around from other uses since he likes vintage stereo equipment, so there was nothing lazy about it.
> 
> I think saying using deoxit is lazy was quite uncalled for. Do you churn your own butter, or just buy it?


 

 I always keep DEXOIT two pack handy and the Magic eraser has ALOT of uses


----------



## isendono

arcorob said:


> Lwrs10...Not sure if I posted, but found the problem...was not the amp per se. It seems I had to reduce the signal OUT from the Surface tablet (which I thought strange) but at 50% and using the AUNE, it does sound great !! Didn't I post this last night or is this Deja Vu? LOL
> 
> BTW.,.I ordered one of these just to try - I had a REAL HARD TIME deciding between the EH and the SOVTEK. so I will try the SOVTEK first and if I need warmth, will try the EH
> ~~Sovtek 6H30Pi EB Cryo Single Super Tube


 
 cool ! Please let us know how it sounds when you got it :>


----------



## y0d4

Dear,
  
 i am sorry because i entering with stupid questions here, but last one i promise )))
 i plan to order:
http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html
 Platinum grade.
  
 Is this smart option?
 i see many great comment about this tube and i think that is what i need..

 Just need confirmation from you guys 
  
  
 thank you.


----------



## isendono

y0d4 said:


> Dear,
> 
> i am sorry because i entering with stupid questions here, but last one i promise )))
> i plan to order:
> ...


 
 drivers grade is good enough for aune t1.


----------



## BenWaB3

coil said:


> Don`t take following personally but I call it consumerism with lots of brain-lazyness. People nowdays do not think about using what they already have. They are like robots pre-coded only to buy buy buy. Although, I think in general typical educational system there is lot of BS that is forced into your head and do not actually need in real life, there is still much you could use to keep your money and *use/re-use that little you already have*. In this case basic school chemistry (btw I sucked at chemistry lol). It isn`t hard to open kitchen cupboard and take 2 things, mix them together and put the tube with re-using your junk-paper/carton in it. Honestly, my method took me too only few minutes (not counting ~30min while tubes soak, I did other things meanwhile). Think, move and use your brain and skills you`ve been given! Don`t just waste it. Heck, you could teach some useful things to your kids maybe? Also you could clean your stuff this way, keep that 25$, go out on street and give it to someone who really needs this money (or maybe to some local charity)! Now, think about it - you`ve *used your* "useless" *skills*, *teached something to someone*, *re-used your junk* and *helped someone* *who is in lot worse situation in life that you are* - isn`t it all positive? By buying deoxit - you have given away your money to corporative system, fed chemical production, polluted nature by it, done no good to anyone, wasted time to shopping,teached nothing to nobody - isn`t it all negative?
> Yes, it`s about choices and people should really step away from their comfort-lazy-zone and start to think further than their noses.
> 
> Just my little thoughts in this morning
> ...


 

 Actually, in arcorob's defense:  If he cleans the pots on stereo equipment on a regular basis he is going to have Deoxit around. As far as I know, & I certainly could be wrong, there is no efficient home-brew that we can throw together to clean vintage electronics that will do the job like Deoxit and be safe at the same time. I was glad to see his post since I have some old equipment here that always get the Deoxit treatment when I pick them up. Plus I have a slab of magic Erasor too. The defense rests


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Lwrs10...Not sure if I posted, but found the problem...was not the amp per se. It seems I had to reduce the signal OUT from the Surface tablet (which I thought strange) but at 50% and using the AUNE, it does sound great !! Didn't I post this last night or is this Deja Vu? LOL
> 
> BTW.,.I ordered one of these just to try - I had a REAL HARD TIME deciding between the EH and the SOVTEK. so I will try the SOVTEK first and if I need warmth, will try the EH
> ~~Sovtek 6H30Pi EB Cryo Single Super Tube




The EH and the Sovtek are the EXACT SAME TUBE. Only difference is the EH pins were dipped after the fact in a gold coating, and the label. They are 100% identical on the inside, and are even made on the same factory line. 


And if people want to call BS, I can show you pics side by side. 

To sum it up, do not pay the extra money for EH tubes...just buy the Sovtek ones.


----------



## CoiL

You all misread my post and didn`t get what I was trying to say. Oh well, let it be.
  


coil said:


> Btw, I looked up some information about those stock main power supply caps and I couldn`t find that size (physical) RJB type Elna capacitor in Elna 2013 catalog.
> It could just be cap from older catalog/production but maybe fake one too?


 
 Any comments on this one?
  
  
 About Sovtek vs. EH tubes - yes, they are same. I also have 2x Sovtek 6922 which are exactly same as 6922EH.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> The EH and the Sovtek are the EXACT SAME TUBE. Only difference is the EH pins were dipped after the fact in a gold coating, and the label. They are 100% identical on the inside, and are even made on the same factory line.
> 
> 
> And if people want to call BS, I can show you pics side by side.
> ...


 

 Yup..thats what I had read...not sure how the EH's can be defined as "warmer" but I don't need warm..mine is warm enough...I want detail and we'll see how it works...There is a Sylvania JAN 7308 I want but he only has a pair (decent price too) but don't want to spend any more ...especially paying for two tube..


----------



## manishex

Does anyone know about these tubes? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECC85-RFT-EAST-GERMAN-MANUFACTURE-/320031157736?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubes&hash=item4a8357ede8
  
138 sold in a short amount of time


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> You all misread my post and didn`t get what I was trying to say. Oh well, let it be.
> 
> Any comments on this one?
> 
> ...






Well, if they do not exist in an Elna catalog, not hard to figure out what happened here.


----------



## CoiL

Maybe it could be older production cap? Although, I got my unit 2nd Jan 2013 (bought it in Dec 2012).
 Oh my! Forgot to celebrate my Aune T1 "birthday" ! *1year and 10 days* old ;D
 Here is little reminder of that day: http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/post/125213/thread
  
 Well, I have been using it 6h per day at least... so, 375 x 6 = ~2250h. Even if those caps are un-branded/fake - I`ve had no problems with it and everything sounds great!


----------



## CoiL

manishex said:


> Does anyone know about these tubes? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECC85-RFT-EAST-GERMAN-MANUFACTURE-/320031157736?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubes&hash=item4a8357ede8
> 
> 138 sold in a short amount of time


 
 Here is cheaper offer: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECC85-RFT-Telam-/370862391944?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item56591f0288


----------



## teb1013

y0d4 said:


> Dear,
> 
> i am sorry because i entering with stupid questions here, but last one i promise )))
> i plan to order:
> ...







isendono said:


> drivers grade is good enough for aune t1.




Correct. I use the driver grade. It is $25 cheaper than the platinum and sounds excellent. This is because the T1 uses the tube as a buffer. The platinum won't offer better sound for this use.


----------



## canadaguy

can the outputs on this be used in conjunction with a powered subwoofer
  
 say in a configuration with pc, powered speakers, powered sub...and the dac itself, no other components in the chain?


----------



## Tristan944

canadaguy said:


> can the outputs on this be used in conjunction with a powered subwoofer
> 
> say in a configuration with pc, powered speakers, powered sub...and the dac itself, no other components in the chain?


 
 If the powered sub directly connects to the powered speakers, then yes.


----------



## spacequeen7

Thanks for the guide Coil ,I think I might need it ...
  

  
 received this tube today but I'm little preoccupied trying to finish my new rig (bending some acrylic tubing ),I've listen to this tube for about 30min and it sounds pretty balanced/3D  ,will spend more time with my DT880's to get a better feel for it 
  
 here are some of my new favorite tunes 
  
http://hoziermusic.bandcamp.com/album/take-me-to-church-e-p
  
http://jaywilliamhenderson.bandcamp.com/


----------



## lwrs10

Stopped by the local tube store today and picked up a few other tubes I did not have. One is an RCA black plate USA made 6aq8.


*EDIT*

The RCA Blackplate 6AQ8 is a damn fine sounding tube.


----------



## lwrs10

Got 2 new tubes to add to the list.

6GC7
6FQ7

Both work fine, plug and play.


----------



## arcorob

Figures you find one...RCA Black Plate in 6AQ8...sheesh...would love one...wanna trade ? LOL


----------



## lwrs10

*Decide to make my own list of tubes that work. Tubes with * next to them means I have personally verified them in my Aune T1.*
  
  
*Tubes that are 100% compatible. *
  
  
*6922**
*7308**
*6AQ8**
*6BK7**
*6BQ7A**
*6BQ7B**
*6BS8*
*6BZ7*
*6DJ8**
*6ES8**
*6FQ7**
*6FW8**
*6GC7**
*6GM8**
*6KN8**
*6L12*
*6N1P**
*6N11**
*6N23P**
*6N27P*
*7DJ8**
*7ES8**
*B719*
*CCA**
*CV2492 *
*CV2493*
*CV4108*
*CV5231*
*CV5354*
*CV5358*
*CV5331*
*CV5464*
*CV5472*
*CV8065*
*CV9838*
*CV10320*
*CV10403*
*E188CC**
*E88CC**
*ECC85**
*ECC86**
*ECC88**
*ECC189**
*M3624**
*PCC88**
*PCC189**
  
*Tubes that work, but have a very high heater current draw. I am confidant the Aune can handle the current, but I am not responsible if yours does break.*
*I have been using the 6H30Pi for a few days, and no problems noted. No excessive heat. *
  
  
*6H6N*
 6H30P**
*6H30Pi*
 6N30P-DR*
 6N30-DP**
*6H30DR**
*6N6P*
  
  
*Tubes that will work with a socket adapter....9pin 12AU7 style*
  
*12AU7**
*5814A**
*5963**
*6189W**
*7316**
*7489**
*7730**
  
*Tubes that will work with a socket adapter....9pin 5670W style*
  
*2C51**
*5670**
*5670W**
*6CC42*
*6N3**
*6N3P**
*6H3P**
*WE396A**
  
  
  
*Tubes that will work with a socket adapter....8 pin octal 6SN7 style*
  
*5692**
*6SN7**
*6SN7W**
*6SN7GT**
*6SN7GTA**
*6SN7GTB**


----------



## teb1013

Great list! Joeq70 should link this to the thread starter.


----------



## CoiL

Please add socket adapter guide/mod also to each corresponding tube section. And If you experience some distortion/problems within some tube type, then don`t forget to mention it. For example some PCC85 work great, some don`t.


----------



## Salvatore

coil said:


>


 
  
 Why did you remove the pin cleaning guide?


----------



## tan1415

Hi guys first ever considering something like this. Can buy one without and warranty or anything. How can i now if its in good working order?
 How vulnerable is it?


----------



## arcorob

tan1415 said:


> Hi guys first ever considering something like this. Can buy one without and warranty or anything. How can i now if its in good working order?
> How vulnerable is it?


 

 There is always some element of risk when buying "used" but if you buy through EBAY or PAYPAL you can be protected. Is the price significantly lower then the $159 on Amazon where you can feel "safe" ?


----------



## spacequeen7

..I didn't know tubes could cost that much ..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Gec-Genalex-Gold-Lion-England-B739-12AT7-ECC81-Tubes-4010-3570-XXX-Rare-/181300774049?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a365e44a1


----------



## teb1013

spacequeen7 said:


> ..I didn't know tubes could cost that much ..
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Gec-Genalex-Gold-Lion-England-B739-12AT7-ECC81-Tubes-4010-3570-XXX-Rare-/181300774049?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a365e44a1



I have seen some vintage rectifier tubes costing $750 or more, but $1768.99 is a mind boggling sum for any tube,, especially an ECC81. I can't imagine that there will be any bids, or that the seller expects any.


----------



## spacequeen7

I'm pretty amazed how good MULLARD ECC85/6AQ8 is (pictured above- thanks lwrs10 )..I was going to jump on 880's but I got stuck listening to this tube on he400's and I got to say this is the best balanced tube I've listen to ,the instrument separation is quite amazing
 @ lwrs10 ..did listen to some acoustic guitar (Stillborn/Skullage (Acoustic) [feat. Zakk Wylde] ) and have to admit ..yes it is that good  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 I won't go into details about it since lwrs10's review pretty much have all you need .
 P.S. the one I have is also GRAY PLATE ROUND GETTER ,copper rods but it's not pinched ,as for steel pins ..this tube prove me wrong


----------



## tan1415

arcorob said:


> There is always some element of risk when buying "used" but if you buy through EBAY or PAYPAL you can be protected. Is the price significantly lower then the $159 on Amazon where you can feel "safe" ?


 
 I like buying secndhand. In case I dont like easy to resell.
 Most gear are quite ok or if you have receipt can easily send it for repairs.
  
 no buyer protection.


----------



## lwrs10

Space,

Glad you like it! Now find an RCA blackplate 6AQ8 and step up one more notch.


----------



## spacequeen7

lwrs10 said:


> Space,
> 
> Glad you like it! Now find an RCA blackplate 6AQ8 and step up one more notch.


 
 I already found it ...with a little low measurements so I will pass on this one.....for now this two will have to make me happy (similar build characteristics -gray/copper/holes)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390733467391?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291002103186?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
  
 on another note ,I just received this and still waiting for the "Pimp my Aune guide"


----------



## arcorob

Glad you can find em..all I see are the greyplates...sigh.


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> Glad you can find em..all I see are the greyplates...sigh.


 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-6AQ8-BLACK-PLATE-HALO-GETTER-VACUUM-TUBE-TESTED-GOOD-PLATE-READING-70-82-/300955399852?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item461256f6ac
  
 this tube is still up for grabs 59 Amperex but little pricey for steel pin 
  
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTQ1MFgxNTQ3/z/o0MAAOxyDLZSA5PV/$(KGrHqN,!rcFHu+gWV9-BS!5PUwZ(!~~60_57.JPG


----------



## arcorob

Well, I guess someone read the post and took it out from under me...NOT cool..


----------



## spacequeen7

EDIT; I don't think 70/80 reading is all that good


----------



## arcorob

No..its not...you are right...just hard to find...that's okay...I have more tube than I know what to do with now...HEY !!! A sale !


----------



## bhazard

Is the Aune T1 supposed to be able to take 12AU7 tubes? I just put an RCA 12AU7 in, and it works?
  
 I tried without a tube at all, thinking maybe just the amp was being used, but sound barely played above a whisper.
  
 Would be awesome if I could use my 12AU7's too.


----------



## dana789

Don't plug a 12au7 in directly to your T1. Search this thread. You need an adapter, the pinouts are not the same.


----------



## lwrs10

BTW, this tube looks in every single way identical to my RCA blackplate 6AQ8...
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Sylvania-ECC85-6AQ8-Black-Plates-Stereo-Tube-5900-4150-36529-/181293722314?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a35f2aaca
  
  
 *EDIT*
  
 Well that was quick.....its already gone.
  
 Makes me feel like there are quite a few lurkers on this thread!


----------



## lwrs10

bhazard said:


> Is the Aune T1 supposed to be able to take 12AU7 tubes? I just put an RCA 12AU7 in, and it works?
> 
> I tried without a tube at all, thinking maybe just the amp was being used, but sound barely played above a whisper.
> 
> Would be awesome if I could use my 12AU7's too.




You can with a simple adapter. If you plug it in without it it will not get the proper heater voltage. But it won't damage anything.


----------



## arcorob

Special thanks to LWRS10 for finding me a black plate last night...this one I GOT
  
 Now I have to figure out how to sell the half dozen tubes I DONT WANT ..I can only use/need about 3...I am up to 8
  
 The Sylvania Black Plate


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> Special thanks to LWRS10 for finding me a black plate last night...this one I GOT
> 
> Now I have to figure out how to sell the half dozen tubes I DONT WANT ..I can only use/need about 3...I am up to 8
> 
> The Sylvania Black Plate


 
 I'm in the market for some nice DV336SE tubes ,congrats on the Sylvania 
  
 BTW. the bamboo background looked familiar (I bought my Amperex from this seller..long story short
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/400628720480 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )
  
 here is another black
http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-1970-Sylvania-Zenith-6AQ8-ECC85-black-plates-tube-New-Old-Stock-New-In-Box-/360482855666?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item53ee73daf2


----------



## bcpk

Just tested the T1 with my Android phone. Works!


----------



## arcorob

Another tube review !
  
*Sovtek 6H30Pi EB Cryo Single Super Tube - Brand new production - 4 stars (for now) *
  
 Being a NOS tube person, I was skeptical that a new production tube could compete in this class yet; I was willing to try it for comparison sake. I had appreciated the sound of the stock 6922EH tube and felt at the worst, they would sound alike even though they are a different tube. In fact, many sites selling this tube tell you not to use it in place of the 6922 as the audio device you use may not be suited for it. Fortunately, I already had prior advice that it was a good match for the AUNE.
  
 When deciding to purchase, I was torn between the 6H30Pi from Sovtek and one from Electro Harmonix. As it turns out, both are identical and made in the very same factory. For some reason, the EH was listed as being a bit "warmer" which sounds silly considering they are supposedly the same. I chose the Sovtek because I was seeking detail as my system is warm enough.
  
 I fired the tube up in my Aune and was immediately impressed by the detail I was seeking. Unlike the EH 6922 tube, the Sovtek presented it's highs beautifully without a hint of "edge" or "fatiguing upper range". The mid's and vocals were nicely forward and separation, soundstage and depth were excellent. Listening to the drums and the bass, I could hear the snares, high hats and kick drum very well. If I had to say anything negative, I could not call the low bass as crisp but I also could not say I did not like it. It was not dull and boomy but more like it had a strong presence. To me this is rare and if your system needed a kick in the bass (without being mired in mud) this might be the tube for you.
  
 I also want to mention it is a beautiful looking tube. Its a taller than the 6922 and looking at the plates, pins and getter, there was nothing crude about it. It looked like a precision made unit. Also, I gave it 4 stars (for me) because the extra bottom while not muddy, was more than I needed and in comparison to ones over 4 stars, I had to give them an edge, but it may change as the tube breaks in.


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Another tube review !
> 
> *Sovtek 6H30Pi EB Cryo Single Super Tube - Brand new production - 4 stars (for now) *
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Nice to see someone else finally had the balls to try a 6H30p tube. You summed up exactly my findings. Very nice tube, would pair very well with electronic style music or anything slightly bass heavy.


----------



## caracara08

Anyone have impressions of the Genalex 6922 or the Sovtek vs the Genalex?


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Nice to see someone else finally had the balls to try a 6H30p tube. You summed up exactly my findings. Very nice tube, would pair very well with electronic style music or anything slightly bass heavy.


 

 I liked it very much....the only thing it seemed to balk at a bit was heavy metal. Not rock, but real metal ..but then again that might have been just me...LOL
  
 LOVED some of my test songs like SADE's Smooth Operator..vocals are stunning...can't wait to hear your recommended black plate.


----------



## abhinit90

So I've decided I'll also open my Aune T1 and see the caps :|
  
 Any tips or pointers, am a newbie in matters related to opening
  
 Thank you


----------



## diaBoliQu3

My Aune T1 adapter is faulty. Whenever I turn on the socket, it will cause tripping to my house. Tripping happen even if didn't turn on the amp. Few things tested:
 1) Try to change the tube, no luck.
 2) I plug in adapter to amp and turn on the wall socket/ extension, no luck.
 3) I plug in the adapter only, and turn on the wall socket/ extension, no luck.
  
 I glad that the adapter still cover by warranty. Will get replacement hopefully before Chinese New Year.


----------



## arcorob

Tube break-in for the AUNE....So just wondering two things..
  
 1) The AUNE is quite low voltage (my tubes don't even get too hot to touch like my amp does)..So is that a factor in break-in on a new or NOS tube? What's a reasonable time?
  
 2) The way I have been putting hours on the tubes is I setup my tablet to the AUNE in the system but shut the amp down. I set the tablet to PLAY ALL music in a random playlist (about 18hours) and just let it get a signal all that time....is that a good way ? Doe sit actually require a signal or just having the AUNE on with no signal ?


----------



## spacequeen7

One of the tube selling retailers was mentioning close to 100 hours burn-in period for "Reflector" 6N23P-EV ("build like tank")
 on another note ,I noticed that some of my tubes can drastically change the whole sound spectrum between natural headphones like 880s and he400s,some tubes like Siemens which is very natural and balance tube (not the best for 880s) can really shine while listening via he400 and my lovely Red Valvo that's just a joy on 880s pretty much suck on he400s (rolling out) ,there are few that can deliver on both so I'm hesitant to come up with the review since there is so many variables (caps,headphones,speakers,burn-in,etc)


----------



## arcorob

Thanks !


----------



## CoiL

spacequeen7 said:


> One of the tube selling retailers was mentioning close to 100 hours burn-in period for "Reflector" 6N23P-EV ("build like tank")
> on another note ,I noticed that some of my tubes can drastically change the whole sound spectrum between natural headphones like 880s and he400s,some tubes like Siemens which is very natural and balance tube (not the best for 880s) can really shine while listening via he400 and my lovely Red Valvo that's just a joy on 880s pretty much suck on he400s (rolling out) ,there are few that can deliver on both so I'm hesitant to come up with the review since there is so many variables (caps,headphones,speakers,burn-in,etc)


 

 I`ve been saying it many times in this thread - burn in tubes properly before posting review!  Properly in my opinion doesn`t mean you have to feed tubes with pink noise etc. stuff - just let it burn playing with different music genres. Not even sure if music passing through tube will make difference, might just be enough to leave Aune T1 turned on.
 Even my worst tube Brimar ECC88 (very narrow & small soundstage, thin sounding, no punch & bass etc.) has gone lot better after using it with movie watching and for night-time background music. Well, it`s still one of my worst tubes but it is a lot better than in beginning. Most of my tubes have "opened up" after burning for some time.
  
 Don`t hesitate to post your review`s with *different cans* ! This would be great for users wanting tube for exact can-match. Imo there`s even difference between using speakers or cans with certain tubes. So, every bit of info and impressions about different can/tube/speaker combos is useful! Although, it might be totally different from other members subjective impressions.
  
 Hopefully will get new capacitors for Aune T1 tomorrow ;P


----------



## BenWaB3

I received shipment of the T1 this past Monday. So far I like it a lot. I don't have the expertise or ears of all of you, but that won't stop me from putting out my unsolicited opinions anyway 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The only thing that gives me some worry is that the tube socket is not fastened levelly so the tube goes in at a tilt. I'm hoping this is not indicative of a further erosion of quality control at the plant. as far as I know everything else works well but I don't have another unit on hand to compare it to. I did send an email to shenzhenaudio about it & received a reply telling me to contact Amazon about it - it was bought from shenzhenaudio through Amazon. So far all I have is the stock tube but I did order one of the GE/Siemens tubes from arcorob's recommendations & will probably order the Telefunken from lwrs10's list as well.
  
  
 Most of my listening is through an amp & speakers but I do have 2 sets of phones, Sennheiser HD-598 and Grado SR-80, sort of the Yin & Yang of phones. I've only gotten to listen a bit with the 598's so far. As far as sound impressions go the type of stuff I listen is probably pretty weird compared to many folks on the forum so it may be totally alien to you, but here are a few examples. These were tried through a Mitsubishi DA-10P preamp & a Yamaha M4, soon to be replaced by a Mitsubishi DA-A15DC power amp as soon as it is back from getting a tune up by the repairman. The A speakers are JSE Infinite Slope .6's & the B speakers are Infinity SRM's. I realize this review is coming only a couple posts after Coil's admonishment about reviewing before the tube burns in properly but just take it in the spirit of a first impression.
  
  
 Brazilian Wedding Song - Quincy Jones: There is a clave + metallic percussion instrument on the 4th beat of the odd numbered measures here. The T1 reproduces the high frequencies  on the instruments plus you can hear each one distinctly from the other. It also reproduces well the open to closed high hat on the last 1/16th note of the even measures to the 1 of the following odd one. Soundstage is also good with Take 6's harmonies spread in a nice wide fashion. The whole recording is great quality. Whether you are a fan of his genres or not ya gotta admit "Q" knows his way around a recording studio.
  
  
 You Met Your Match - Tower Of Power from The Great American Soul Book: Contemporary TOP recordings can somewhat compressed with a lot of high frequencies. This one has a trebly rhythm guitar & clavinet going on so I wanted to see how the T1 handled them. It was a little harsh but it's the stock tube & it's not broken in. TOP is also somewhat a 16th. note based band but that didn't bog the T! down.
  
 I've Got You Under My Skin - Monty Alexander from the Echoes Of Jilly's album: classic jazz piano trio here & the ride cymbal is recorded rather subtly but it sits well on the top with the T1
  
 Sure Fire One - Liquid Soul from the Here's The Deal album: I listen to this one to see how a system handles the double-pedaled bass drum on the instrumental sections. Again, the T1 came through fine.
  
 Route 66 - Natalie Cole from the Unforgettable album: A piano trio opens this version up. I listen to (& like in this case) the sound of the brush work & acoustic bass. Another one from this album I've enjoyed on phones through the years is It's Only A Paper Moon. Over phones the big horn section coming in when they go into tempo from the rubato introduction kind of explodes right into your ears. lookin' forward to testing that out on the T1 soon.
  
 My Indian Red - Dr. John from the Goin' Back To New Orleans album: This one features a brass band so I like to check out the sound stage & separation plus how the drums are in the center. Also I like to see if the banjos are defined during the instrumental intro verses. These are probably the 4 string variety, played in the brass band style instead of the 5 string variety more prevalent in country & bluegrass. I was able to make them out very well during said verses. Another good song from this album to use for testing is Litanie Des Saints, especially the rubato intro then the strings coming in when they go into tempo.
  
  
 There are others but I don't want to ramble on too much. Overall I really like the unit - I'm just a bit apprehensive after seeing the workmanship. The GE should be in by the weekend so I'll trying rolling The Leaning Tube Of Pisa & see how it turns out. So far so good.  
  
  
 Ben


----------



## CoiL

For what it counts, stock 6922EH tube is no good for rock/metal/progressive/jazz. It has extended and loose bass, extended sparkly highs and mids are kind of "recessed". Also soundstage is "too big" for those genres. Imho, it suits mainly for atmospheric electronic music/EDM/dubstep/minimal etc.
 Anyway, those new tubes you get should make noticeable difference (I hope so, don`t have those tubes myself). Which GE you are getting exactly? GE 6GM8 or GE ECC85?
 Looking foward to your impressions.
  
 Just a note, plugged in my Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8 (DJF V3B, Bharat India, gold label) after burning in other tubes for awhile and this tube still makes me smile every time.
 Perfect fit for filter modded (mkII) HD-681 red and should be also great for Grado`s.
  
 Edit:
  
 lwrs10, please give pinout guide to *5670W > 6DJ8 *adapter so I could add it to my tube list post: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502453


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> For what it counts, stock 6922EH tube is no good for rock/metal/progressive/jazz. It has extended and loose bass, extended sparkly highs and mids are kind of "recessed". Also soundstage is "too big" for those genres. Imho, it suits mainly for atmospheric electronic music/EDM/dubstep/minimal etc.
> Anyway, those new tubes you get should make noticeable difference (I hope so, don`t have those tubes myself). Which GE you mean exactly? GE 6GM8 or GE ECC85?
> Looking foward to your impressions.
> 
> ...


 

 Coil,
  
 I don't agree. You/we really need to qualify this with "On my system,,which consists of" and "In my opinion"...
  
 Look at my opinion page..it says:
_~~NOTE - this applies to my system. Of course every systems will be a bit different (links in the chain)_
  
 what works for you or doesn't work for you may be the opposite for me. Trust me, this is not an argument. This is observation of something that has been going on in terms of rating tubes that could steer people away from their perfect tube,. I think the stock tube is a great start..it was a bit fatiguing in the high end for me on MY system but that may not be the case in another, I actually rated it pretty high.
  
 If I was not the type to experiment on my own, I never would have tried the two GE's and the Sylvania that sound awesome in my system
  
 Now when you mention the Ultron, you are giving more details on WHAT it sounds good on. I can't give reviews on what they sound like through headphones because I don't listen that way...
  
 Nes pas ?


----------



## CoiL

arcorob, like I`ve said before, this opinion about stock tube (upgrade) is pretty much overall consensus, there are many others saying same about this tube. Of course much depends on system setup, hearing, taste etc. but in general, impressions about 6922EH stay same. I`ve been in this thread from page 20 and I know what I`m saying. And most of us here listen with headphones but my statement also goes for external speakers - 6922EH not so good for rock/metal/progressive/jazz.
 Out of all tubes I have (about 50), 6922EH stands pretty much "in middle" of everything but I`m confident about this tube being not so great fit for rock/metal/progressive/jazz, especially after hearing Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88 & Mullard ECC88, which are confirmed by many users being much better overall tube over stock 6922EH.
 Btw, _Imho_ means _in my honest opinion_ if you are not familiar with this short version and this refers to my system/opinion.
  
 About Ultron SQ PCC189, read the thread, plenty of impressions and information given by me. In short version, tinybit better than Amperex 6DJ8 (GAC ⊿9F3, single support leg dimpled disc getter, orange globe logo) - In my opinion.


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> arcorob, like I`ve said before, this opinion about stock tube (upgrade) is pretty much overall consensus, there are many others saying same about this tube. Of course much depends on system setup, hearing, taste etc. but in general, impressions about 6922EH stay same. I`ve been in this thread from page 20 and I know what I`m saying. And most of us here listen with headphones but my statement also goes for external speakers - 6922EH not so good for rock/metal/progressive/jazz.
> Out of all tubes I have (about 50), 6922EH stands pretty much "in middle" of everything but I`m confident about this tube being not so great fit for rock/metal/progressive/jazz, especially after hearing Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88 & Mullard ECC88, which are confirmed by many users being much better overall tube over stock 6922EH.
> Btw, _Imho_ means _in my honest opinion_ if you are not familiar with this short version and this refers to my system/opinion.
> 
> About Ultron SQ PCC189, read the thread, plenty of impressions and information given by me. In short version, tinybit better than Amperex 6DJ8 (GAC ⊿9F3, single support leg dimpled disc getter, orange globe logo) - In my opinion.


 

 You take things too personal Coil. You want so desperately to be right. I don't care if you have been in this thread since Noah was learning to work with wood. It is irrelevant. what is relevant is your opinion is not the be all end all. I did not say the stock tube was the greatest  (you really should read instead of being defensive) ..I gave my HUMBLE opinion based on my setup and MY experience which is not limited to this family of tubes.
  
 Your ultimate Amperex Orange Globe SUCKED in my humble opinion...glad I got it cheap. But then again so did the somewhat pricier Mullards. For me, I have found LWRS10's reviews much more helpful which doesn't make yours WRONG - It just tells me his system is probably closer aligned to mine.
  
 I think you are trying to speak for a group when you can really only speak for yourself - and if the "group" has similar opinions, it is because they are listening on similar rigs.
  
 so take the defensive emotion out of it and understand what is being said (I know you wont though...saw that the last time my opinion differed from yours)


----------



## CoiL

> For what it counts, stock 6922EH tube is no good for rock/metal/progressive/jazz. It has extended and loose bass, extended sparkly highs and mids are kind of "recessed". Also soundstage is "too big" for those genres. Imho, it suits mainly for atmospheric electronic music/EDM/dubstep/minimal etc.


 
  
 Quote:


arcorob said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > arcorob, like I`ve said before, this opinion about stock tube (upgrade) is pretty much overall consensus, there are many others saying same about this tube. Of course much depends on system setup, hearing, taste etc. but in general, impressions about 6922EH stay same. I`ve been in this thread from page 20 and I know what I`m saying. And most of us here listen with headphones but my statement also goes for external speakers - 6922EH not so good for rock/metal/progressive/jazz.
> ...


 
  
 Whatever. I`m not talking with your ego. Dude yelling in CAPS is the dude taking things personally & trying to be right.
 Sorry that Amperex OG 6GM8 didn`t work out for you. Didn`t seem to suck so much for you at beginning. You are the one who should lose some emotional attitude and ego.
  
 Edit: Oh, and don`t put words to other ppl mouths - "Your ultimate Amperex Orange Globe" - I haven`t said anything like that. I even said that it surely isn`t best for every genre.


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> Whatever. I`m not talking with your ego. Dude yelling in CAPS is the dude taking things personally & trying to be right.
> Sorry that Amperex OG 6GM8 didn`t work out for you. Didn`t seem to suck so much for you at beginning. You are the one who should lose some emotional attitude and ego.


 

 I knew you would try to have the last word. I had two words in caps. All caps is yelling. two words is called emphasis.
  
 My posts have not been about emotion and ego, they have tried to be a voice of reason. And my posts on this subject have been quite reasonable.
  
 Whatever.


----------



## CoiL

This all is your own selfish ego-centered emotional reflection of yourself.

 I was not trying to be desperately right, I`m just looking at things in bigger picture - overall opinion about 6922EH.
  
 But yeah, whatever.


----------



## lwrs10

Oh come on both of you. 
  
 Coil, you are sometimes overbearing with what your opinions are on certain tubes. But who cares, its the internet. It could be a cultural difference or something, but does not really matter to me. I noticed the same thing as Rob, but no reason to really care on my end. Keep doing what you are doing, but tone down replying and pointing out your opinion on everyone elses like our opinions are invalid. You did this to me, and did this to Rob. Opinions are just that. State yours and move on. 
  
  
 Rob, calm down man. Go get a beer. 
  
  
 Remember we are all in this thread for the same reason......this wonderful el cheapo DAC that sounds wonderful in its stock form. I have owned MANY dacs, and the Aune stands its own against much higher priced dacs. 
  
 Also need to remember everyones setup/gear/ears/opinions are different. Yes the "general" opinion on the EH6922 is pretty much the same. Does not mean some may like it more than others. There is also the "synergy" thing people do not usually think about. If your headphones are very neutral, then the EH 6922 might sound quite a bit worse. If you have cans like mine(DT990), the EH 6922 is not really all that bad. The EH 6922 did quite a decent job with metal with those headphones. 
  
  
 One major advantage to tubes is you can try many may different ones and tailor the sound to your liking. You are not stuck to how that piece of equipment sounds out of the box. Your headphones too bright with the 6922? Get a softer sounding laid back tube. Headphones lacking that sparkly smooth treble? Get a tube that is in your face. 
  
 See what I am getting at?


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> This all is your own selfish ego-centered emotional reflection of yourself.
> 
> I was not trying to be desperately right, I`m just looking at things in bigger picture - overall opinion about 6922EH.
> 
> But yeah, whatever.


 
 removed test in favor of LWRS10's common sense


----------



## arcorob

On another note...CAPS in house .LWRS10...
  
 The Nichicon 3300UF 25V arrived from Mouser. I should have ordered all from there. The others are from another source and I had to open a paypal case..No contact, nothing. Not ebay either.
  
 I will re-order from a good source so I can get to this next week. Anxious to hear what you did.


----------



## arcorob

Thanks LWRS10 first for the voice of reason...now help me understand something on the caps...LOL
  
 So I ordered (new order) Panasonic 330uf 35v low esr Panasonics to replace the purple dudes...good choices as these are in the audio path , yes ?
  
 Also, did you ever determine if the Nichicon's are real ? I ask because I really wont order and change if I don't have to. Just swap the Lelons and the purple acme';s
  
 Thanks


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Thanks LWRS10 first for the voice of reason...now help me understand something on the caps...LOL
> 
> So I ordered (new order) Panasonic 330uf 35v low esr Panasonics to replace the purple dudes...good choices as these are in the audio path , yes ?
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 With all the caps i swapped in this thing, I ended up keeping the caps on the headphone board "stock" I only changed the 2 pairs of power supply caps, and this made the biggest difference.


----------



## arcorob

So to be clear, the headphone board caps you left were the Nichichon's (that I don't have to buy), yes ? hmmm....wonder if the Panasonic low esr caps are good in a power path ?


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> So to be clear, the headphone board caps you left were the Nichichon's (that I don't have to buy), yes ? hmmm....wonder if the Panasonic low esr caps are good in a power path ?


 
  
  
 The headphone board has the original caps in it right now.


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> So to be clear, the headphone board caps you left were the Nichichon's (that I don't have to buy), yes ? hmmm....wonder if the Panasonic low esr caps are good in a power path ?


 
  
 Rob,
  
 Yes, the Panasonic caps will be just fine in the power path.
  
 If you bought the other caps from headfishop, they are in China.... so it could take a while for anything ordered to get here.
  
   -Mike


----------



## arcorob

Thanks Mike ! I just wish all my parts were here at the same time..Would love to do it tomorrow morning


----------



## CoiL

coil said:


> Okay, made my order on caps:
> 
> 1. Main power supply caps: http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufr1e332/capacitor-radial-25v-3300uf/dp/1800661
> 2. Secondary power supply caps & headphone amp rail voltage caps: http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufm1v471/cap-alu-elect-470uf-35v-can/dp/1219475
> ...


 

 Finished re-capping:

  

  

  
 Got to let it burn in. First initial impression - soundstage, separation & clarity improved littlebit but bass/midbass & dynamics might have gone littlebit worse. Hope things will smoothen out and improve with burning. Me thinking about swappable cap sockets ;D


----------



## arcorob

AUNE USB DRIVERS
  
 Okay, I am trying to help a friend having issues with his Windows 7 machine detecting the right USB driver for the AUNE. For the record, I have been up and down through all the usual processes for this so read carefully, see what the symptom is and what has already been tried...Then PLEASE help the guy ...LOL
  
 First AUNE
 He plugged it in and for some reason did not pass USB detecting - said it did not install properly
  
 , also the unit took several minutes to come out of protect.
 Check and his audio said USB AUDIO - Not connected
 Check Device Manager and the USB had an entry for USB AUDIO DEVICE (the default device and driver)
 I had him try a variety of things INCLUDING
 Search for new driver, search for hardware changes, etc etc. No joy
  
 He felt the device was bad and replaced.
  
 Now today, new device. Passed detection, all on, no sound.
 everything is hooked up correctly but when looking at his USB devices, the only thing other than Root hubs, is USB COMPOSITE DEVICE - 2 entries
  
  
 Now when I plug it into MY Windows 7 machine and check device manager, the USB actually says AUNE T1 24/96 DAC
  
 So I know its his software / confused, but can't figure how to help him. I would have him POINT to the right this (specify a location) but
 1) Don't know where it would be
 2) I don't think it really connected
  
 Thoughts ?


----------



## spacequeen7

is the "SW" switch in upper position ? 
 I have mine hooked up to 3.0 USB ( I would update all USB [ it will update the HUB ] ) drivers -latest 
 update Realtak HD as well (I have two sets of headphones hooked up to my PC so if I don't use DAC the other one kicks in ),I haven't had any issues
 if he have spare HDD or SSD I would try to install windows /update and see if it works ,if it does then  he might have corrupted OS


----------



## SixthFall

Might have missed it, but does anyone have any comparisons to a Schiit Magni+Modi setup?


----------



## lwrs10

Doing some tube testing tonight.....






Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk


----------



## teb1013

How does the toaster sound?


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Doing some tube testing tonight.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Are those REALLY cool mono blocks or just twin stereo amps ? SA WEET


----------



## CoiL

coil said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > Okay, made my order on caps:
> ...


 

 Let it burn overnight and no change in sound yet, hasn`t got better. Although soundstage, separation & clarity seem to be improved littlebit, I`m thinking it`s mostly from "missing" low-mids and bass. Everything sounds brighter, vocals not so warm & smooth as before and it`s harder to make difference between tubes. Honestly, I`m thinking about switching back to stock caps but will still give it a week to get better. Before switching back to stock caps (if things won`t get better), I`m going to try Panasonic FR series hp coupling caps and see if it makes any difference. Next would be changing secondary power supply caps back to stock. Btw, latter seem to be Panasonic FC series caps by markings and size but only thing that refers to being fake is color of sleeve (purple) - Panasonic FC series should be only with black sleeve according to 2013 catalog. If that won`t change anything, then going all the way back to stock caps and maybe will try nichicon+elna caps in future when I get them from headfi shop.
  
 Atm my recommendation is NOT to change caps if you like how your Aune T1 sounds and there`s nothing wrong with it.
  
 Edit:
  
  
 It seems that those secondary power supply caps that I had as stock really are legit Panasonic FC series
 because even headfi shop sells them in purple sleeve: http://www.headfishop.com/10pcs-panasonic-fc-470uf-25v-cap-hifi-audio-electrolytic-capacitor_p1478.html
  
 My opinion about those stock caps my unit has - Well, I couldn`t identify main power supply caps being legit because I couldn`t find this sized RJB series cap (3300uF 25V, 18x21,5mm) in ELNA 2013 catalog but that`s similar case Panasonic FC series not being purple. Maybe they are from older batch (older catalog) or different factory, special size for OEM etc. Call it gut feeling or whatever but I think all the caps in my unit are legit.


----------



## canadaguy

guys, is this a good tube and a good seller?
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/6N23P-E88CC-ECC88-6DJ8-Matched-Selected-Pair-Voskhod-Rocket-NOS-Strong-/181282403953


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Let it burn overnight and no change in sound yet, hasn`t got better. Although soundstage, separation & clarity seem to be improved littlebit, I`m thinking it`s mostly from "missing" low-mids and bass. Everything sounds brighter, vocals not so warm & smooth as before and it`s harder to make difference between tubes. Honestly, I`m thinking about switching back to stock caps but will still give it a week to get better. Before switching back to stock caps (if things won`t get better), I`m going to try Panasonic FR series hp coupling caps and see if it makes any difference. Next would be changing secondary power supply caps back to stock. Btw, latter seem to be Panasonic FC series caps by markings and size but only thing that refers to being fake is color of sleeve (purple) - Panasonic FC series should be only with black sleeve according to 2013 catalog. If that won`t change anything, then going all the way back to stock caps and maybe will try nichicon+elna caps in future when I get them from headfi shop.
> 
> Atm my recommendation is NOT to change caps if you like how your Aune T1 sounds and there`s nothing wrong with it.
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Change the headphone board back to the stock caps. Just leave the power supply ones in there. That was my final best sound combination.
  
  
 And you can call it whatever you want, but those purple caps failed simple test. Mine had failed and thats why there was such a dramatic change in sound.


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Are those REALLY cool mono blocks or just twin stereo amps ? SA WEET


 
  
  
 2 100 watt monoblocks.


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> And you can call it whatever you want, but those purple caps failed simple test. Mine had failed and thats why there was such a dramatic change in sound.


 
 Your purple caps have different value also. Looking at your pics, they are not Panasonic FC series.
  
 Edit: Forgot to say, those caps been burning all the time from installation now and bass has turned better by now but mid-low section seem to be different (littlebit laid back) from stock caps. But soundstage, transparency & imaging seem to be littlebit better, very easy to listen certain details with different tubes. I`ll let it burn-in for 1 week and if mids haven`t "come back" then I`ll switch back some caps. Btw, this change in sound doesn`t go only for headphone but external speakers too, so I`m thinking that maybe this change comes from main or secondary power supply caps (you said it made most difference).


----------



## teb1013

canadaguy said:


> guys, is this a good tube and a good seller?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/6N23P-E88CC-ECC88-6DJ8-Matched-Selected-Pair-Voskhod-Rocket-NOS-Strong-/181282403953




Check out the thread starter, the Voskhod is a popular tube, depending on your taste. I find it to be too " up front" with a narrow soundstage, at least for the classical, jazz and classic rock that I listen to. Others love it. Use the thread search, you will find many comments.


----------



## CoiL

another thing, there are different labeled rockets out there and if I recall correctly, someone had those different labeled in here and they sounded slightly different. The one with smaller rocket logo and without large star logo was better as I remember (with larger soundstage).
  
 Btw, updated fake/bad/different caps post. Little summary:


coil said:


> *1)* There are *2* *different value* secondary power supply caps - *470uF 25V* or *330uF 35V*.
> 220V UK version seems to have 470uF 25V caps (RG review unit and my unit, both UK version with 220V 15V-0-15V power supply).
> 110V US version seems to have 330uF 35V caps.
> 
> ...


----------



## canadaguy

teb1013 said:


> Check out the thread starter, the Voskhod is a popular tube, depending on your taste. I find it to be too " up front" with a narrow soundstage, at least for the classical, jazz and classic rock that I listen to. Others love it. Use the thread search, you will find many comments.


 

 is my link the same tub referenced in the first post?
  
 is it a reputable seller?


----------



## BenWaB3

A quick question - When anyone on the list got your T1, were the switches set at 0db or 16db? I don't know if there is a universal way they ship these or not. Mine were set to 16db. Since I had mentioned in my review that the tube socket is not level I'm starting to wonder if they sent me a used unit (it was sold as new) or someone may have been playing around with the units at the factory, distributers, etc. Thanks.
  
 Ben


----------



## Salvatore

lwrs10 said:


> Doing some tube testing tonight.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 I'm more interested about those beer bottles in the background. Any Great Divide brews there


----------



## RTTO

lwrs10 said:


> 2 100 watt monoblocks.


 
  
 2 x 100 watt to drive the toaster.
  
 ummm... so that's 100 watt per slice... ; )
  
 Beautiful!


----------



## arcorob

Holy cow. That is the polite way to say it. Received a GE 6DJ8 USA made date 65-48 - Simply beautiful sound. Tests new and blows away the EUR made competition (thus far) Still have a black plate on the way. I am always impressed when a tube makes an immediate impression. Articulate and detailed highs. Forward and velvety mids. Bass sound real (the bass guitar and kick drum are right there like a live band). Not a trace of fatigue on the top or boom on the bottom. For $20 I could not ask for more.
  
 Taking a snapshot from Coils book, I am re-assessing the tubes after giving significant burn in. I am keeping a log and will re-write the assessments after at least 50 to 100 hours. I found that adding hours to some excellent Mullard's changed their sound from so so to very nice...Usually I can tell where a tube is going (prior experience with tube families) but seems like this family has room to change pretty drastically.
  
 Tube list and picture of the sweet GE


----------



## arcorob

Presented - The Mullard factory
  
 The movie is old and a bit long (33 minutes) but watching this (especially after the first 3 minutes) shows why old stock tubes are so much better - It was a golden age of a high demand product versus today where its limited, more specialized and less competition. The processes that were built to make millions upon millions of tubes...amazing...
  
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDvF89Bh27Y&feature=player_detailpage


----------



## CoiL

Went ahead and ordered 4x 470uF 25V ELNA Silmic II + 2x 47uF 50V ELNA Silmic II capacitors. Should be arriving at the beginning of next month. Those tiny things are expensive ;S Hope they are worth it and will smoothen sound and make mids lively.
  
 Atm mids haven`t "returned" yet with Panasonic FM + FR + AM caps but bass has gone better & tighter. My stock 6922EH tube also sounds littlebit tighter. Still hoping mids to step up a notch. Those caps still have 6 days to live before I`ll cut off their legs ;D


----------



## itchyears

newbie question I was looking at this dac amp as my first one, does this have an option to use a 2nd source say a sat box and allow me to flick from usb (pc audio) and also to the sat box?


----------



## MrEleventy

You can plug something up into the rca in but that bypasses the tube dac.


----------



## JYabbz

What would be a good cheap tube amp ($130) to go with the Aune T1 Tube DAC? I'm primarily looking into the Little Dot I+ for the tube rolling feature and better build quality compared to the Bravo Tube Amp.
  
 I primarily have low impedance headphones under 70ohms and don't plan on getting anything over that. I have/plan to get: Q701, Pro DJ100, Momentums, SR225i, HE400.


----------



## abhinit90

You'd do good to consider the Schiit Vali


----------



## BenWaB3

Tube rolling would be a problem with the Vali. I'm not sure, but think that one may be soldered in.


----------



## GirgleMirt

benwab3 said:


> Tube rolling would be a problem with the Vali. I'm not sure, but think that one may be soldered in.


 
   
 I thought nah just unscrew but:
 Quote:


> Yep, $99. It may have to go up, since we're going to be doing a bit more work to match tubes (handling the flying leads is a pain in the ass, we need to build a test fixture) and some damping of microphonics. But even then, we're talking $119.
> It'll never be as quiet as Magni, though...these tubes would never work in, say, a phono preamp or other low-noise application. But they work very well here. Surprisingly well for something that started as a "what if?" project. It would have never come to market if it didn't sound good. We have a number of projects like that--failed concepts. Ah, well.
> We'll be posting the Vali on the website when it is available, which should be about 2-3 weeks.
> For some tech details, Vali is a hybrid, using 6088 pencil tubes, triode-strapped, with a discrete bipolar follower stage that is somewhat related to the Magni's output stage. It is DC-coupled to the follower through a bipolar phase inverter and level shifter. The tubes run on a regulated 60V rail, which is fine for a tube rated for a maximum anode voltage of 67.5V. The bipolar part operates on a 27V rail. Its rated output will be about half that of the Magni.
> ...


----------



## CoiL

I would go for Darkvoice 336se, Some Little dot version or garage1217 products (project sunrise etc.). This is also quite appealing: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310557793652?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


----------



## ipush

Hi guys..Currently I'm looking for an entry level tube amp to pair with my ATH-M50 and HD650 (in the future).
 Do you guys recommend this tube amp for those cans? Which one suited better between Aune T1, Bravo V2, or GoVibe Volante?
 Other tube amp recommendation within same price range is highly welcomed


----------



## dragonfly50

Been thinking about picking up the Aune T1, and noticing how many online sellers are hawking them at rock-bottom prices. Many sellers are the type that pick up odd items at wholesale discount. So it looks like Aune is literally dumping these on the market, and have no control over most of their retailer. 
  
 One of the sellers I'm considering is less than 100 miles from me, with free shipping, but they seem specialize in Keurig coffee cartridges.
  
 At the bottom of this, I wonder about quality issues, and of course the iffy-to-nonexistent support if one of these bargain-basement T1s is DOA or goes bad after a little use.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

ipush said:


> Hi guys..Currently I'm looking for an entry level tube amp to pair with my ATH-M50 and HD650 (in the future).
> Do you guys recommend this tube amp for those cans? Which one suited better between Aune T1, Bravo V2, or GoVibe Volante?
> Other tube amp recommendation within same price range is highly welcomed


 

 Aune T1 is tube DAC, not tube amp. Change to Amperex OG tube and no more bright issue.
  
 Bravo V2 is just an amp. Better amp than Aune T1 IMO.
  
 I tested Xduoo TA-01, a tube amp with DAC. The DAC sucks, but the amp really good.
  
 Not sure if Aune T1 can drive HD 650 well or not. But Bravo Ocean can drive HD 650 according to my friend. V2 and Ocean is the same amp, just few different in design. So I will say V2 will drive HD 650 just like Ocean too.


----------



## itchyears

thx its just for sat/cable tv listening so nothing earth shattering required


----------



## Tristan944

Why are tubes coated at the top is the chrome-looking metal?


----------



## arcorob

Just FYI ..my tube impressions list has been update - new tubes and Mullard updated from 3 to 4 stars after break in


----------



## dana789

diaboliqu3 said:


> Aune T1 is tube DAC, not tube amp. Change to Amperex OG tube and no more bright issue.
> 
> Bravo V2 is just an amp. Better amp than Aune T1 IMO.
> 
> ...


 
  
  
  
 I have the Aune T1 and the Bravo V2 (unmodified) which I drive with a Stoner Acoustics UD110 DAC. Hard to say which one I like best, if pressed I would pick the T1. total cost of both is within $10. The T1 is a trimmer package, the separate UD110 DAC and Bravo V2 amp are a bit more versatile. I have Amperex Orange Globe  tubes for both (they use different tubes), I would say they are my preferred tube so far.
  
 They both sound awesome to my mostly untutored ears. I usually listen with my Beyer DT770.


----------



## arcorob

dana789 said:


> I have the Aune T1 and the Bravo V2 (unmodified) which I drive with a Stoner Acoustics UD110 DAC. Hard to say which one I like best, if pressed I would pick the T1. total cost of both is within $10. The T1 is a trimmer package, the separate UD110 DAC and Bravo V2 amp are a bit more versatile. I have Amperex Orange Globe  tubes for both (they use different tubes), I would say they are my preferred tube so far.
> 
> They both sound awesome to my mostly untutored ears. I usually listen with my Beyer DT770.


 

 Dana....give these a try
  
 For the AUNE - GE 6DJ8 USA or SEIMENS 6AQ8
  
 For the BRAVO V2 (Love that little guy) - RCA Black Plate like these
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NOS-RCA-USN-CRC-5963-Vacuum-Tubes-1958-Black-Plate-12AU7-Audio-Twin-Triodes-/350977230047?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item51b7df84df
  
 or
  
  
 Mullard 12AU7 Long plate ...amazing sound - can be pricey
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPERB-RARE-1956-MULLARD-CV491-ECC82-12AU7-LONG-SQUARE-TESTS-NOS-FREE-SHIP-/251419980898?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubes&hash=item3a89cc7462
  
 or more reasonable
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-1956-Mullard-12AU7-Tube-Blackburn-B6F-ECC-82-Tested-Good-Mint-Graphics-/231138199078?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item35d0e90626


----------



## dana789

arcorob said:


> Dana....give these a try
> 
> For the AUNE - GE 6DJ8 USA or SEIMENS 6AQ8
> 
> ...


 
  
 thanks for the advice, I'll keep looking for those for my Bravo. For the T1, I bought a nice stash from mhamel and have picked up a few more since.
  
 I am enjoying this immensely.
  
 I'm not sure about your taste in music, but for test tracks I highly recommend the Steve Hoffman 1985 remaster of Who's Next. You can get it from ebay Canada. I listened to that with my T1/Amperex OG/DT770 the other night, wow. It showed me how critical the remastering is. Tube-rolling and remaster-rolling. This hobby can be fun.


----------



## CoiL

dana789, what Amperex OG did you get from mhamel exactly? 69` 6DJ8 single support leg dimpled disc GAC coded? He had few of those for selling. Still one of my best tubes for rock/metal/progressive/jazz and they are really appreciated in Lyr thread also.


----------



## dana789

coil said:


> dana789, what Amperex OG did you get from mhamel exactly? 69` 6DJ8 single support leg dimpled disc GAC coded? He had few of those for selling. Still one of my best tubes for rock/metal/progressive/jazz and they are really appreciated in Lyr thread also.


 

 He sold me a 1969 Amperex OG 6DJ8, from Phillips/Amperex Herleen, Holland, Sept 1969 from the etch date. I'll check the other details tonight.


----------



## JYabbz

jyabbz said:


> What would be a good cheap tube amp ($130) to go with the Aune T1 Tube DAC? I'm primarily looking into the Little Dot I+ for the tube rolling feature and better build quality compared to the Bravo Tube Amp.
> 
> I primarily have low impedance headphones under 70ohms and don't plan on getting anything over that. I have/plan to get: Q701, Pro DJ100, Momentums, SR225i, HE400.




So yeah or nay for the little dot I+ with the aune t1? Only going to be using them with low impedance headphones 70ohm or lower and the I+ drives low impedance headphones great like the grados which I listen to the most.


----------



## mhamel

dana789 said:


> He sold me a 1969 Amperex OG 6DJ8, from Phillips/Amperex Herleen, Holland, Sept 1969 from the etch date. I'll check the other details tonight.


 
  
  
 1969 Amperex 6DJ8 / GAC, dimple disc getter, single post support... Herleen, 4th week of September, 1969 mfg.
  
 Section matched < 2.3% difference in Gm, < 1% difference in Mu (Gain).
  
  
 I have 2-3 matched pairs left of the GAC coded 1969s, I don't think I have any singles left, I'd have to check.
  
     -Mike


----------



## dana789

mhamel said:


> 1969 Amperex 6DJ8 / GAC, dimple disc getter, single post support... Herleen, 4th week of September, 1969 mfg.
> 
> Section matched < 2.3% difference in Gm, < 1% difference in Mu (Gain).
> 
> ...


 

 and it sounds great! As Mike advised, this was a very good starting point for me. It was reasonably priced and made the merits of a good tube obvious to someone new to tube rolling.


----------



## CoiL

Those GAC coded OG`s are rare & good, so enjoy it!


----------



## spacequeen7

received few tubes in the last couple days


----------



## arcorob

Me too !!! BUt I think you received more in that shipment...LOL
  
 On another note..I have all my caps...and may just store them away...My AUNE sounds great..so why mess with it? Not an itch I need to scratch right now...LOL...


----------



## spacequeen7

^^^ two tubes out of this are questionable 
*Sylvania 6AQ8 ECC85 Black Plates and RCA 6AQ8 Gray Plates have some base/bass distortion (looks like copper rods are on fire)*


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> ^^^ two tubes out of this are questionable
> *Sylvania 6AQ8 ECC85 Black Plates and RCA 6AQ8 Gray Plates have some base/bass distortion (looks like copper rods are on fire)*


 

 That sucks..and those are two good sounding tubes...defective ?
  
 I received my black plate today..DEFECTIVE..uggg...Right channel about 1/2 of the left..never had that happen...sucks


----------



## teb1013

spacequeen7 said:


> received few tubes in the last couple days :atsmile:




What are the big tubes in the back? What do you use them for?


----------



## Salvatore

spacequeen7 said:


> received few tubes in the last couple days


 
  
 How does that RTC sound?


----------



## MrEleventy

teb1013 said:


> What are the big tubes in the back? What do you use them for?


6sn7 & 7236, they're the driver and power tubes for the darkvoice 336. Will also work in a Crack w/ adapter


----------



## spacequeen7

salvatore said:


> How does that RTC sound?


 
 since you ask ,here is my first review 
  
  
  _Source: Foobar2K (wasapi event output) -> FLAC 700kbps or above or mp3 320kbps ->Beyerdynamic DT 880 PRO and HiFiman 400_

 Scale [1~5]
 Sound stage - How wide and deep the sound is.
 Imaging – The shape of the sound stage and how vocals and instruments fit in there (positioning).
 Transparency – How each instrument is separated and how much air is between the instruments.
 Loudness (value)-[low/medium/high]
  
_*E188CC MULLARD. RTC BRANDED. , GOLD PINS. CRYOTREATED*_
_*Dimple Disc Getter/single support wire/seamed top*_

_Acquire this tube for it's intriguing build quality/rare and hard to find outside Europe 
 First impressions are soundstage which is wide but not tall ,instrument seperation is pretty good ,this is one of the "clean" sounding tubes as I like to call it (detail,pinpoint accuracy ) and will show all the recording discrepancies,this is airy tube as well and most important natural and well balanced, warm midrange, and bass is accurate and not overwhelming 
 Since this is Mullard familly it's hard to find what stands out from other Mullards I own but if I have to pick one it would be slight sparkle in highs ,very nice tube (plays nice with both headphones)_
  
 Sound stage - ****
 Imaging – ***½
 Transparency – ****
 Loudness (value)-Medium
 Total: 11.5 / 15
  



  
 EDIT; will do Reflector 1969 next ("from Russia with love")


----------



## spacequeen7

teb1013 said:


> What are the big tubes in the back? What do you use them for?


 
  
  


mreleventy said:


> 6sn7 & 7236, they're the driver and power tubes for the darkvoice 336. Will also work in a Crack w/ adapter


 
 ^^^ this 
 P.S. thanks for you help with DV


----------



## MrEleventy

spacequeen7 said:


> ^^^ this
> P.S. thanks for you help with DV



NP, have fun with the dv336.


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> That sucks..and those are two good sounding tubes...defective ?
> 
> I received my black plate today..DEFECTIVE..uggg...Right channel about 1/2 of the left..never had that happen...sucks


 
 I didn't give up on my Sylvania ..I reseat the tube again and noticed less distortion ,so I'm hoping that cleaning the pins might help  
  


> Originally Posted by *CoiL*
> 
> 
> NB! Everybody who are using higher voltage/current tubes - make sure you clean your NOS tube pins properly!!! I tried this other PCC85 I got (different build from earlier mentioned PCC85) and without cleaning pins it sounded crackly and distorted. After cleaning - works like a charm!


----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> On another note..I have all my caps...and may just store them away...My AUNE sounds great..so why mess with it? Not an itch I need to scratch right now...LOL...


 
 Sensible decision imo. Hopefully will get my ELNA Silmic II caps soon so I could test them and give feedback if cap "upgrade" is really worth it. Atm I still miss stock caps because of littlebit better mids/mid-lows & dynamics (vocals) affected by it.
  
 Btw, I have russian 6N1P-EB (steel pin voskhod rocket version, not pulse version) & Sylvania ECC189 (yellow bolt logo, grey plate) incoming soon.


----------



## arcorob

Coil,
  
 Thanks for being the beta tester..LOL
  
 I have all my parts and then I thought "DO I REALLY need to or do I like it as it sounds?" I could change them out in a heartbeat but then if I don't like them after burn in, have to change back, worry about the solder pads, etc.
  
 Maybe one day like I said, when I get an OCD bug...LOL
  
 Let us know how it works out


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Coil,
> 
> Thanks for being the beta tester..LOL
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Some people were really happy with the EH6922 also.
  
  
 Now before everyone throws the recapping under the bus, think about this. You can "roll" different brands of caps in there and change the sound just like you can with tubes....just takes a bit more work. 
  
  
 Coil used totally different caps than I did, and got a different result. Specs are not everything.
  
  
 And the end result on my Aune is I only change the secondary supply caps, and put the originals back in elsewhere. It would take someone at your skill level maybe 15 minutes to swap them out and give it a shot. If you don't like it, swap the others back in.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Some people were really happy with the EH6922 also.
> 
> 
> Now before everyone throws the recapping under the bus, think about this. You can "roll" different brands of caps in there and change the sound just like you can with tubes....just takes a bit more work.
> ...


 

 lwrs10....DONT TEASE ME...LOL
  
 You are creating an itch I may wish to scratch...specifically, which caps did you change, the smaller purple ones (I have some nice Panasonic for those) or the Lelons? I have Nichicons for those...


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> lwrs10....DONT TEASE ME...LOL
> 
> You are creating an itch I may wish to scratch...specifically, which caps did you change, the smaller purple ones (I have some nice Panasonic for those) or the Lelons? I have Nichicons for those...


 
  
  
 change both you just mentioned.


----------



## Illmatiic

I've recently purchased both the Aune T1 and the HD650's but I have an issue (at least I think I do)...
  
 I'm a desktop computer user who plays online games. When playing online, I communicate with buddies through a program called Ventrilo (its like skype). However, since I thoroughly enjoy listening to music and watching blu-rays on my PC, I decided to finally up my audio game with the combo I mentioned above.
  
 The HD650s obviously don't come with an mic so I'll be purchasing the ModMic to solve that problem. The HD650s will be plugged into the Aune T1, but where do I plug in the mic? 
  
 Its been suggested in this thread to disable my onboard soundcard to ensure sound is only being pushed through via USB into the T1.
  
 Any ideas as to how I'll get around this problem?


----------



## caracara08

I plug my mic into my onboard.  Not sure if that is right


----------



## pat1984

illmatiic said:


> I've recently purchased both the Aune T1 and the HD650's but I have an issue (at least I think I do)...
> 
> I'm a desktop computer user who plays online games. When playing online, I communicate with buddies through a program called Ventrilo (its like skype). However, since I thoroughly enjoy listening to music and watching blu-rays on my PC, I decided to finally up my audio game with the combo I mentioned above.
> 
> ...


 

 Did you disable the onboard sound from the BIOS? I usually choose the USB DAC as my primary playback device and have the onboard mic as the primary recording device. Hope that works for you...


----------



## Illmatiic

pat1984 said:


> Did you disable the onboard sound from the BIOS? I usually choose the USB DAC as my primary playback device and have the onboard mic as the primary recording device. Hope that works for you...


 
  
 That's exactly what I was planning to do. But I second guessed myself since I kept reading suggestion after suggestion to disable the onboard sound in the BIOS.
  
 I guess I got too worried since I dropped some decent coin only to have come up with a scenario where I could have shot myself in the foot.


----------



## MrEleventy

illmatiic said:


> I've recently purchased both the Aune T1 and the HD650's but I have an issue (at least I think I do)...
> 
> I'm a desktop computer user who plays online games. When playing online, I communicate with buddies through a program called Ventrilo (its like skype). However, since I thoroughly enjoy listening to music and watching blu-rays on my PC, I decided to finally up my audio game with the combo I mentioned above.
> 
> ...






illmatiic said:


> That's exactly what I was planning to do. But I second guessed myself since I kept reading suggestion after suggestion to disable the onboard sound in the BIOS.
> 
> I guess I got too worried since I dropped some decent coin only to have come up with a scenario where I could have shot myself in the foot.


I don't think you got the suggestion to disable your onboard from us. I did a quick search and you're the only one to have brought it up. But yeah, the only reason to disable the onboard is if you're installing another internal sound card. Otherwise, just leave it alone and follow caracara and pat1984's recommendation of pluging into the onboard's mic. Welcome to HF and sorry about your wallet.


----------



## arcorob

Just an FYI...No need to disable onboard sound - it is irrelavant
  
 When you plug your AUNE in to USB, Windows detects it as a USB Audio Device for PLAYBACK. Not recording. It disables (or takes priority) over sound OUT.
  
 So if you plug your mic into the normal INPUT jack of your PC, it will be the RECORDING DEVICE


----------



## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> Now before everyone throws the recapping under the bus, think about this. You can "roll" different brands of caps in there and change the sound just like you can with tubes....just takes a bit more work.
> 
> Coil used totally different caps than I did, and got a different result. Specs are not everything.
> 
> And the end result on my Aune is I only change the secondary supply caps, and put the originals back in elsewhere. It would take someone at your skill level maybe 15 minutes to swap them out and give it a shot. If you don't like it, swap the others back in.


 
 Yes, confirmed, capacitor specs are not everything. Although those Panasonic FM & FR & AM have very high specs, they do not "sound" so good (subjective) as stock caps, although transparency, imaging and soundstage improved littlebit (for EDM these caps are actually pretty good). Had to learn it my own in "hard way". But this modding and fiddling with Aune T1 is fun for me  I`m already searching info and asking some electricians how to get dB-meter for each channel installed ;D I want to build wooden custom case and thought about having nice illuminated analog dB meters too ;P


----------



## q2klepto

I recently purchased the HE-400 last night from the locals for $260CDN, wanted a set of open backed cans for home use.  I notice that it needs a bit of amping compared to my Logitech UE6000s - and that while the bass is good, it doesnt move me like the UE6000s.  Theyre different beasts for sure, as the UEs are closed back and the NC greatly changes the response to a more smiley curve.
  
 Does the Aune T1 come with a bass boost? or will it "color" the sound enough that the HE400 will have a tiny bit more kick to it? I noticed the UEs were a bit more...visceral while playing action games (BF4) but the HE400 unamped still provided better clarity. 
  
 Both are good though, i have to test drive the HE400s a bit more though..i thought it would blow my pants off, but maybe it just needs a decent dac/amp.


----------



## arcorob

Okay ...LWRS has me on go
 Coil has me on wait
  
 LOL...
  
 I have Nichicons and Panasonics so I may just give it a whirl. I can always change them back.
  
 The nikis
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DWIGW36/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
 The panasonics
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/261073769025?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## CoiL

I have "same" Panasonic FM`s (except they are 470uF) at place of secondary power supply and headphone rail voltage. Your Aune T1 caps "upgrade" outcome might probably be the same as with my unit - littlebit brighter & less mids/mid-lows. But then again, your setup is different and might sound great for you.
  
 I would change only main power supply caps (if you have those Lelons) against Nichicons.


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> I have "same" Panasonic FM`s (except they are 470uF) at place of secondary power supply and headphone rail voltage. Your Aune T1 caps "upgrade" outcome might probably be the same as with my unit - littlebit brighter & less mids/mid-lows. But then again, your setup is different and might sound great for you.
> 
> I would change only main power supply caps (if you have those Lelons) against Nichicons.


 

 Okay...now my head is spinning/do/don't..LOL
  
 I do not want to lose the mids I have come to love...maybe as you say, I will just change the Lelons...


----------



## pat1984

q2klepto said:


> I recently purchased the HE-400 last night from the locals for $260CDN, wanted a set of open backed cans for home use.  I notice that it needs a bit of amping compared to my Logitech UE6000s - and that while the bass is good, it doesnt move me like the UE6000s.  Theyre different beasts for sure, as the UEs are closed back and the NC greatly changes the response to a more smiley curve.
> 
> Does the Aune T1 come with a bass boost? or will it "color" the sound enough that the HE400 will have a tiny bit more kick to it? I noticed the UEs were a bit more...visceral while playing action games (BF4) but the HE400 unamped still provided better clarity.
> 
> Both are good though, i have to test drive the HE400s a bit more though..i thought it would blow my pants off, but maybe it just needs a decent dac/amp.


 
 Firstly, you got a great deal on the HE-400  I have HE-400 and UE 9000s and the HE-400 is really in a different class. I bought the Aune T1 but later replaced it with a combo of the HiFimeDIY Sabre DAC and a garage1217 starlight Amp. Aune T1 does not have a bass boost but try increasing the gain, it might help. If not you can always choose another tube which will definitely help in your case.


----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> coil said:
> 
> 
> > I have "same" Panasonic FM`s (except they are 470uF) at place of secondary power supply and headphone rail voltage. Your Aune T1 caps "upgrade" outcome might probably be the same as with my unit - littlebit brighter & less mids/mid-lows. But then again, your setup is different and might sound great for you.
> ...


 

 Wait, I though only spacequeen7 had Lelons? Your unit also? Here is my updated caps post if you missed some information: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4005#post_10144586

 But yeah, I would change only main power supply caps because those secondary supply caps (or maybe even main ones) seem to affect both RCA out and jack out sound in same way.
 Changing headphone amp board caps don`t seem to make much difference and those should not affect RCA out sound, so, only secondary & main power supply caps seem to have most influence.


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> Wait, I though only spacequeen7 had Lelons? Your unit also? Here is my updated caps post if you missed some information: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4005#post_10144586
> 
> But yeah, I would change only main power supply caps because those secondary supply caps (or maybe even main ones) seem to affect both RCA out and jack out sound in same way.
> Changing headphone amp board caps don`t seem to make much difference and those should not affect RCA out sound, so, only secondary & main power supply caps seem to have most influence.


 

 Nope...I have Lelons and purple whatevers...will change both...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I just picked this up on Ebay for $144 (Shipped from in the US) to go with my new SoundMAGIC HP100s and I will mainly be using it at my desk in combination with my Creative ZXR.  I will just use the Line In option from the headphone out I'm assuming. 
  
 I do have a few questions for current owners of this DAC/Amp:
  
 1. How much difference does changing the tubes make?  I am looking at a NOS Amperex, but wondering if the tube really changes the signature that much.
  
 2. How portable is this?
  
 3. If I did take this to the office, I could plug it in USB and use the on-board DAC correct?  Is there a driver disc or do you have to download drivers I'm assuming?


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> I just picked this up on Ebay for $144 (Shipped from in the US) to go with my new SoundMAGIC HP100s and I will mainly be using it at my desk in combination with my Creative ZXR.  I will just use the Line In option from the headphone out I'm assuming.
> 
> I do have a few questions for current owners of this DAC/Amp:
> 
> ...


 
 Okay, answers
 1) A lot depending on the tube and your listening taste - Tube only is in play with USB In...Just FYI
 2) Umm...it has a brick for the power supply 1/2 the size of the DAC (which is good) but as to portability, very.
 3) Yes on USB, no driver required for Win7 or 8..plug and play. If you own an Apple product, I take back all my answers...LOL (I work for MSFT)


----------



## NCSUZoSo

What tube type do yall recommend?  I've been looking at E88CC's


----------



## lwrs10

coil said:


> Wait, I though only spacequeen7 had Lelons? Your unit also? Here is my updated caps post if you missed some information: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4005#post_10144586
> 
> But yeah, I would change only main power supply caps because those secondary supply caps (or maybe even main ones) seem to affect both RCA out and jack out sound in same way.
> Changing headphone amp board caps don`t seem to make much difference and those should not affect RCA out sound, so, only secondary & main power supply caps seem to have most influence.


 
 I found the biggest difference was changing those secondary caps....for the better.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I ended up grabbing an Amperex E88CC "High Fidelity Version 6DJ8" for $44.95, although it is an RCA label.  I am biased to USA NOS tubes after testing many types in guitar amps and I believe this may be a winner.  Great test results and even the etching is top quality for a tube 30+ years old.
  
  


> Tested this on a High Quality Professonal Hickok 539C: 21,000 & 20,000


----------



## arcorob

So this arrived today..works awesome and will save my AUNE socket. Now, I paid a little more (okay maybe triple) the cost of a normal socket saver, but sometimes if you are going to put anything in your signal chain, you want to be sure it is of good quality. Not doing so would be like putting $10 RCA's on a $2000 Turntable.
  
_~~This Plug & Play, 9-pin B9A NOVAL NOVIB Socket Saver©with Vibration Reduction Base, and Gold Plated Pins on the socket end is a perfect solution. Anti-vibration Base* is filled with silicone to reduce microphonics. Tube pins are exact size of a typical NOS Philips tube for snug fit, unlike cheap Chinese bases with thinner pins that wobble in the sockets. Engineered in-house and precision manufactured for us with high quality materials overseas_


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> I found the biggest difference was changing those secondary caps....for the better.


 

 When you say the secondary supply caps, you mean the Lelons, yes ?


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> When you say the secondary supply caps, you mean the Lelons, yes ?


 
 No. Those are the primary supply caps. The purple ones are the secondary regulated supply.


----------



## Acknown3

Hey guys. I'm gonna be going on a road trip soon and would like to take my Aune with me. Is there a decent case out there that will protect it without having to remove the tube? Maybe cut this ( http://www.amazon.com/Zeikos-ZE-HC18-Deluxe-small-photo/dp/B001T9N12U ) down to size? Thanks!


----------



## Salvatore

acknown3 said:


> Hey guys. I'm gonna be going on a road trip soon and would like to take my Aune with me. Is there a decent case out there that will protect it without having to remove the tube? Maybe cut this ( http://www.amazon.com/Zeikos-ZE-HC18-Deluxe-small-photo/dp/B001T9N12U ) down to size? Thanks!


 
  
 Just remove the tube and use the original box. It's really good and you have a safe place to store one tube as well.


----------



## Chris Walker

Hello all, my first post here so please bear with me with my inexperience.
  
 So I'm interested in this DAC, will be using it with powered speakers (hs80m) and some IEM's. What I'm wondering is does the volume control work for both the 6.5mm and rca outputs, and will the dac mute the rca output when I plug in my headphones/iem like a few other DAC's do?
  
 Thanks for your help.


----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> So this arrived today..works awesome and will save my AUNE socket. Now, I paid a little more (okay maybe triple) the cost of a normal socket saver, but sometimes if you are going to put anything in your signal chain, you want to be sure it is of good quality. Not doing so would be like putting $10 RCA's on a $2000 Turntable.
> 
> _~~This Plug & Play, 9-pin B9A NOVAL NOVIB Socket Saver©with Vibration Reduction Base, and Gold Plated Pins on the socket end is a perfect solution. Anti-vibration Base* is filled with silicone to reduce microphonics. Tube pins are exact size of a typical NOS Philips tube for snug fit, unlike cheap Chinese bases with thinner pins that wobble in the sockets. Engineered in-house and precision manufactured for us with high quality materials overseas_


 
 Imho, all those socket savers are useless, especially if you have some soldering skills (IF you ever need to replace socket).
 All that high-quality materials & silicone to reduce microphonics is kind of marketing & audiophile pseudo BS.
 I`ve had Aune T1 little over 1 year for now and I`m changing tubes like crazy... I see no excessive wear on socket pins. Any additional contact point between tube and socket pins is bad imo (like in case of most audio connections/paths). Lol, some even claim that socket saver will change sound to better. I only see some point having socket saver for adapter mod or in guitar amps where this "_silicone to_ _reduce microphonics_" might actually be useful because of shaking/rumbling amps. Well, you could place your Aune T1 also stupidly near subwoofer/speakers and make your tubes shake, lol. Or if you want to add some hum or other weird sounds, just place it near other electric equipment with enough EMI. One question to think about - how much is there been seen those socket savers being used with other amps/DAC`s? Eeeemh... can`t see much of them being used.
 But all this is just my subjective opinion about socket savers.


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> Imho, all those socket savers are useless, especially if you have some soldering skills (IF you ever need to replace socket).
> All that high-quality materials & silicone to reduce microphonics is kind of marketing & audiophile pseudo BS.
> I`ve had Aune T1 little over 1 year for now and I`m changing tubes like crazy... I see no excessive wear on socket pins. Any additional contact point between tube and socket pins is bad imo (like in case of most audio connections/paths). Lol, some even claim that socket saver will change sound to better. I only see some point having socket saver for adapter mod or in guitar amps where this "_silicone to_ _reduce microphonics_" might actually be useful because of shaking/rumbling amps. Well, you could place your Aune T1 also stupidly near subwoofer/speakers and make your tubes shake, lol. Or if you want to add some hum or other weird sounds, just place it near other electric equipment with enough EMI. One question to think about - how much is there been seen those socket savers being used with other amps/DAC`s? Eeeemh... can`t see much of them being used.
> But all this is just my subjective opinion about socket savers.


 

 As we say in the states "Tell me how you really feel".
  
 I really don't care about your opinion on this as it has limited value to the thread. The thread is supposed to be about helping people, showing them new things, etc. Just because you have seen limited (and that's a really good word) wear on your AUNE socket doesn't mean it doesn't happen. They get loose and a small accident can cause breaks in the socket connections themselves. I have been around tubes long enough to see how worn sockets can get.
  
 I also never stated the device was an enhancer, that is your fantasy. I did copy the quote from the seller and in case you didn't know, microphonics is real. It can be caused by many things including vibration on cheap plastic connections.  I could have gone with a cheap plastic connector however; it would and could be a potential downfall in the signal chain. Sometimes for a few dollars more it is better to go with better made materials...If not then why the hell were you changing caps ? Because you "thought" they would be better.
  
 As to soldering skills, mine are quite fine. Whether it is a simple cap or an amp with over 500 solder points. no issues. But not everyone can do that and if they break a socket, its tough luck.
  
 This is the second time you have "pushed me" on this thread. I let the first one go..I don't suggest any more as I am only SO tolerant. Keep it to the pertinent thread and the positive concept of helping people, not bashing ideas to help folks that differ from you very limited "opinion".


----------



## MrEleventy

chris walker said:


> Hello all, my first post here so please bear with me with my inexperience.
> 
> So I'm interested in this DAC, will be using it with powered speakers (hs80m) and some IEM's. What I'm wondering is does the volume control work for both the 6.5mm and rca outputs, and will the dac mute the rca output when I plug in my headphones/iem like a few other DAC's do?
> 
> Thanks for your help.


No, just the 6.5mm gets volume control. RCA out is fixed and always on.


----------



## MrEleventy

I think you both should just put each other on your block list and get it over with.


----------



## Chris Walker

mreleventy said:


> No, just the 6.5mm gets volume control. RCA out is fixed and always on.


 

 Real shame...


----------



## tonephile

Just got the T1. First unit received had a defective volume control. One side was intermittent. Running the stock tube or gold pin version (what I had around). Amperex on order. 
  
 Sounds good. I do hear the tube weight, bloom. I prefer it over the similarly priced FiiO e17/e09. 
  
 It does suffer compared to the more expensive units I have on hand. The T1 sounds congested in comparison. Doesn't resolve detail as well and in general not quite as refined. Still a great unit and doesn't do anything wrong per se. 
  
 I'll looking into replacing caps soon and more tube rolling. T1 has lots of potential.


----------



## lwrs10

I had a preamp that used 12at7's that wad super microphonic no matter what tube I put in it. I HAD to use those exact same socket savers and the silicone orings to stop the ringing at higher volumes. 

Now with the Aune I am not sure this would be a problem, but I wore out my socket already and replaced it just a few days ago. There is nothing wrong with using one, since I can verify it does wear out over time if you swap enough tubes.


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> So this arrived today..works awesome and will save my AUNE socket. Now, I paid a little more (okay maybe triple) the cost of a normal socket saver, but sometimes if you are going to put anything in your signal chain, you want to be sure it is of good quality. Not doing so would be like putting $10 RCA's on a $2000 Turntable.
> 
> _~~This Plug & Play, 9-pin B9A NOVAL NOVIB Socket Saver©with Vibration Reduction Base, and Gold Plated Pins on the socket end is a perfect solution. Anti-vibration Base* is filled with silicone to reduce microphonics. Tube pins are exact size of a typical NOS Philips tube for snug fit, unlike cheap Chinese bases with thinner pins that wobble in the sockets. Engineered in-house and precision manufactured for us with high quality materials overseas_


 
 I'm using one of this ,bought this since my stock socket inside of the unit is installed on a slight angle so when I plug in the tube it looks awkward and NOVIB takes care of this it also protects the socket /extends the life of the original ,it's not "mandatory" to have one but can come handy for future moding as lwrs10 mention 
 P.S. I have some free time this weekend so will replace  caps


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> I'm using one of this ,bought this since my stock socket inside of the unit is installed on a slight angle so when I plug in the tube it looks awkward and NOVIB takes care of this it also protects the socket /extends the life of the original ,it's not "mandatory" to have one but can come handy for future moding as lwrs10 mention
> P.S. I have some free time this weekend so will replace  caps


 

 Glad you can work on the AUNE (maybe straighten the socket too ? )
  
 I was going to do my re-cap, maybe still will...But I am in the midst of a tune-up on my velleman...DONT ASK - LOL..But she is going to get a partial recap soon also


----------



## mhamel

coil said:


> Imho, all those socket savers are useless, especially if you have some soldering skills (IF you ever need to replace socket).
> All that high-quality materials & silicone to reduce microphonics is kind of marketing & audiophile pseudo BS.
> I`ve had Aune T1 little over 1 year for now and I`m changing tubes like crazy... I see no excessive wear on socket pins. Any additional contact point between tube and socket pins is bad imo (like in case of most audio connections/paths). Lol, some even claim that socket saver will change sound to better. I only see some point having socket saver for adapter mod or in guitar amps where this "_silicone to_ _reduce microphonics_" might actually be useful because of shaking/rumbling amps. Well, you could place your Aune T1 also stupidly near subwoofer/speakers and make your tubes shake, lol. Or if you want to add some hum or other weird sounds, just place it near other electric equipment with enough EMI. *One question to think about - how much is there been seen those socket savers being used with other amps/DAC`s? Eeeemh... can`t see much of them being used.*
> But all this is just my subjective opinion about socket savers.


 
  
 There's discussion all over the place about them.  One example - many Lyr owners consider them mandatory, given that the stock Lyr configuration has the tubes sitting very low in the amp.  Raising them up not only makes them easier to swap/roll, it helps both the tubes and the amp run cooler.  I actually use two savers per socket in my Lyr as I prefer the tubes to be up and out of the chassis, and there is no degradation in sound.  I also use them on my tube tester - I'd rather throw away an inexpensive socket saver than wear out and have to replace or repair the sockets, and no, there are no questions about my soldering skills.   
  
 As the T1 uses a tube stage with no gain, it's not very susceptible to microphonics, but that doesn't mean tube microphonics can't be an issue.  Amps and preamps that use tubes in the gain stage can be extremely sensitive.   Suggested reading:  http://www.thevalvepage.com/valvetek/microph/microph.htm   Vibration can come from many sources, not just placing an amp in front of a speaker or subwoofer or in a guitar amp.   In the Schiit Vali, for example, microphonics are so common and expected with the type of tubes they use that they state it over and over again on the Web site, product documentation and posts about the amp.   On some Vali amps, merely plugging in the headphones or adjusting the volume can cause ringing in the tubes for several minutes. 
  
 In theory I can certainly see where the pins inside of the socket saver being encased in silicone could help dampen vibration coming up through a piece of gear's chassis.   In my own experience, I've found that using tube dampers provides more of a benefit than silicone-filled socket savers when it comes to reducing microphonics in the tube gear that I own.  I'm sure others have had different results, these things can be very gear/tube/environment-specific.
  
 With the T1, there's also a purely cosmetic thing I like about using a socket saver... it blocks most of the glaringly-bright white LED.  I'd rather see the tube glowing than have a flashlight coming out of the box.
  
 I realize you're just expressing your opinion, but that came across as pretty harsh and dismissive towards Rob's post.
  
           -Mike


----------



## spacequeen7

> helps both the tubes and the amp run cooler


 
 forgot to mention this,yes I noticed that the tubes won't get as hot via saver ,the only negative I can think of is that the socket saver will kill the sweet light coming through the bottom of the tube


----------



## arcorob

Thanks guys...I have just decided to ignore future diatribes from Coil. Is there an ignore feature on this board ?
  
 On better topics, Mike, hadn't thought how it might help some (like your amp) get that heat path up higher out of the amp. Side note...when I bought my velleman, it had EL34's - and some nice shiny rings that go around each base...very cool...but when  I switched to 6L6GC's, their base is bigger, can't use the decorative rings.
  
 Be well..there will be more coming as I know of at least 5 more people who have bought the AUNE and are quite pleased !


----------



## MrEleventy

No ignore, just a block. Their posts will get spoiler-ized.


----------



## CoiL

I received my 6H1N-EB ("nickel" plated pins, "copper" inside pins, double wire supported small "cup" getter, small rocket logo (Voskhod plant), 9102 code under tube marking) and I`m actually impressed with it. This tube has 600mA current draw but everything sounds good. My 6N23P reflector is no near this tube in terms of soundstage size and clarity. Lot better for rock/metal/progressive by my taste and first impression. On sidenote, I really like those long glowing see-able filaments with this tube 
 Not bad start for 3£ NOS tube.
  
 Edit:
       Okay, after burning this tube for about 8h everything sounds good (haven`t done any comparing yet) but it is very hot! It`s the ffirst tube that is so hot I can`t hold my finger against it. Guess more mA tube is drawing, more hotter it is? Any comment on this lwrs10?


----------



## arcorob

mreleventy said:


> No ignore, just a block. Their posts will get spoiler-ized.


 

 Done ..THANKS


----------



## tonephile

Just got the Amperex 6922. So much better than the stock EH. My reservations about the T1 are now gone. Congestion, slight glare is gone. Very impressed with the T1. 
  
 Found a Philips JAN 6dj8 in my box o tubes, also an excellent sounding tube. More midrange prominent than the Amperex. Good for a different mood. 
  
 Next step Telefunken, thought I had some but turned out to be a 12ax7.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I just added a $12 Philips 6922 along with my $45 Amperex E88CC 6DJ8, just to add another option. 
  
 Does anyone use one of those tube dampening rings? 
  
 Like these for example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-SoniKLEER-TUBE-AMP-DAMPERS-FOR-12AX7-12AU7-12AT7-12BH7-EL84-6922-5687-EL84-/350976272472?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item51b7d0e858


----------



## spacequeen7

all I got to say is I can here more detail ,need more time ..so far so good


----------



## Tristan944

Alright guys, let's leave the drama behind now. 

I noticed there is an approximate 30 second delay on the T1 before it's allows music to flow through it. Is there a way to shorten this time interval?


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> You are lucky..mine seems to take 45 to 60 seconds...heaters ? LWRS could answer this better


 
  
 Tubes need a bit of time for the heaters to warm up enough to become operational, so the T1 has a built-in delay to account for that.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

What brand caps do yall recommend using?  I've always been partial to Nichicon "Fine Golds".


----------



## dana789

mhamel said:


> Tubes need a bit of time for the heaters to warm up enough to become operational, so the T1 has a built-in delay to account for that.


 
 I had to chuckle, I guess Tristan is a young-un who never had a vacuum tube TV or radio. Waiting from them to warm up was standard procedure. Ironically, my new TV now takes a while to boot. Back to the future!
  
 Does anyone know if the delay is fixed or if the circuit senses when the tube has warmed up? Just curious.


----------



## Knud

mreleventy said:


> No, just the 6.5mm gets volume control. RCA out is fixed and always on.


 
 So just to make 110% sure: If I would hook up a headphone, the Aune controls the volume. And I can simultaneously use the RCA out to an amplifier for my speakers and let that amplifier control the volume of my speakers. Is that correct?


----------



## MrEleventy

knud said:


> So just to make 110% sure: If I would hook up a headphone, the Aune controls the volume. And I can simultaneously use the RCA out to an amplifier for my speakers and let that amplifier control the volume of my speakers. Is that correct?


Correct.


----------



## zoneykid

Could anyone give some advice for what tube to get, I'm pretty new to this, though I've been doing a lot of reading.
 Currently I like the stock EH 6922, I picked up a rocket logo 6N23P but found it to be rather flat and lacking a bit of treble.
 I have the T1 feeding straight out to a pair of DT990s 250ohm.
  
 These are a couple I looked at after reading through this thread a bit
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-GE-ECC85-6AQ8-Herleen-HOLLAND-VERY-STRONG-NOS-NIB-tube-AMPLITREX-TESTED-/181291601562?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a35d24e9a
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/6DJ8-ECC88-Electron-Tubes-GE-USA-1960s-19-95-ea-/221361046497?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item338a2583e1
  
  
  
 Also I'm curious as to what everyone's thoughts/opinions on EQing are.
 Personally I found myself kind of disappointed by the T1 in comparison to my FiiO E17 in the beginning, what with the lack of bass and treble control, since I was using a system-wide EQ to great extent on my Android Phone, I thought there must be a similar solution for windows that's system-wide(yeah I could EQ in winamp or foobar but those were always lackluster, and what about youtube and soundcloud).
 I came across Equalizer APO, an EQ that hooks into windows audio to provide EQ on a system-wide level, but it only read EQ settings from text files which I had to manually edit, but later I came across V4W http://vipersaudio.com/blog/?page_id=59, which I believe is based off of Equalizer APO and have been using it to great effect. I was able to bring back all the things I felt were missing when I first started using my T1(compared to my E17 anyways), and with a bit of tweaking the stock 6922 sounds pretty great.
  
  
  
 Quote:


dana789 said:


> I had to chuckle, I guess Tristan is a young-un who never had a vacuum tube TV or radio. Waiting from them to warm up was standard procedure. Ironically, my new TV now takes a while to boot. Back to the future!
> 
> Does anyone know if the delay is fixed or if the circuit senses when the tube has warmed up? Just curious.


 
  
 Pretty sure it's always 30s, if you warm it up and then power cycle it'll still wait 30s.


----------



## pngwn

CoiL, what happened to your supported tubes list post that was listed in Salvatore's post?


----------



## Salvatore

pngwn said:


> CoiL, what happened to your supported tubes list post that was listed in Salvatore's post?


 
  
 Coil decided to step back from this thread. I'm also thinking of leaving the updating of my useful info post to somebody else. So is there anyone out here who is willing to keep updating this post? I'm looking for somebody who has been in this thread for a long time and is planning on staying too. Somebody who reads all the posts regurarly and has own this unit for some time.


----------



## spacequeen7

spacequeen7 said:


> all I got to say is I can here more detail ,need more time ..so far so good


 
 swapped 470/25 to 470/35 and I will probably keep them in until someone can come up with better combo ,the biggest difference I noticed from 330/35 (purple no-name caps) is the highs ,it seems like T1 it's more civilized  now ,the harshness is gone ,the sound is not as "up-front"(vocals took a step back ) anymore (balanced) this can change the sound of some tubes ,I got used to the stock combo so I'm on the fence as if this will be my last swap , this caps might need some burn in  also ,I got the feeling that the stock tube can be more enjoyable now ...back to testing


----------



## spacequeen7

*


----------



## pngwn

EDIT: nevermind. Anyway, shame the post was deleted.


----------



## spacequeen7

^^
 -what music are you listening to ?
 -headphones ?
 -source ?
 -budget ?
 EDIT; there is still good info posted here
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294


----------



## pngwn

I'm currently using the T1 with a 6922EH tube through the RCA out to iFi iCAN and then finally my AD900x. AD2k out for repairs, hopefully it agrees with the Aune... Anyway, already ordered a 6n23p. I listen mostly to trance, vocal trance, and indie/alternative lately. I'm interested in trying to get as much subbass out of my rig as possible, so perhaps the 6n23p-eb would have been a better choice? The AD2k has a fairly aggressive mid-range as it is, so I'd hope that would balance out the U curve I'd read about. Are there other good quality bass/subbass oriented tubes with good clarity and little recession?


----------



## arcorob

So changed out the purple caps with some Panasonic caps 105degree low esr. Let me tell you, one was easy and one was a bee atch. it seemed like they got the solder on both sides of the PC so even though I used a solder sucker, removed ALL from underneath, it was locked in there. Pulling on the caps, the leads came right out of the cap (I mean the whole line from insdie the cap...lol
  
 Well, that made it easier to get them unsoldered. The other one, a breeze, 15 seconds.
  
 So only changed those purple whatever's and left the Lelons. Put back together, hooked up, very sweet. One definitive change is the bass became tighter and more realistic. If you ever have been in a band (I was a bass player) you know what a bass drum should sound like. Not as much of a boom but the sound of a skin being hit with a low response. That became evident.
  
 The highs and mids are beautiful. The only negative I vaguely detected was a little congestion on chorus. But like any new cap, they need to break in. Its currently running non-stop with a 19 hour playlist I have.
  
 Purple uglies
  

  
 The lelons

  
 The replacement caps...and one old one pulled. lOL..I forgot to take a picture after I replaced.


----------



## arcorob

zoneykid said:


> Pretty sure it's always 30s, if you warm it up and then power cycle it'll still wait 30s.


 
 Zoney...the two tubes you are looking at are awesome (especially the first GE Holland 6AQ8)
  
 If you go for number two, pick the one that reads
 ~~12166/12640 umhos
  
 Closest balance to both sides
  
 I have both, both sound great but the 6AQ8 is amazing...


----------



## spacequeen7

pngwn said:


> I'm currently using the T1 with a 6922EH tube through the RCA out to iFi iCAN and then finally my AD900x. AD2k out for repairs, hopefully it agrees with the Aune... Anyway, already ordered a 6n23p. I listen mostly to trance, vocal trance, and indie/alternative lately. I'm interested in trying to get as much subbass out of my rig as possible, so perhaps the 6n23p-eb would have been a better choice? The AD2k has a fairly aggressive mid-range as it is, so I'd hope that would balance out the U curve I'd read about. Are there other good quality bass/subbass oriented tubes with good clarity and little recession?


 
 I don't have the exact 6n23p but they have quite following ,some like them some don't due to narrow soundstage ,there is a variety of getters on this tubes so it's hard to tell exactly how will it sound 
 I personally love British made Mullards and my favorite one (thanks lwrs10) is up for grabs (will PM the link)


----------



## teb1013

salvatore said:


> Coil decided to step back from this thread. I'm also thinking of leaving the updating of my useful info post to somebody else. So is there anyone out here who is willing to keep updating this post? I'm looking for somebody who has been in this thread for a long time and is planning on staying too. Somebody who reads all the posts regurarly and has own this unit for some time.




This is a shame. You and CoiL would be great losses to this thread. I doubt that anyone else could replace you. Once I saw some of the attitude playing out in recent posts, I was afraid that this would happen. I hope you both reconsider.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I am looking for the same thing, people who have owned this product for its life and are going to continue updating info on upgrades and tweaks.


----------



## arcorob

salvatore said:


> Coil decided to step back from this thread. I'm also thinking of leaving the updating of my useful info post to somebody else. So is there anyone out here who is willing to keep updating this post? I'm looking for somebody who has been in this thread for a long time and is planning on staying too. Somebody who reads all the posts regurarly and has own this unit for some time.


 

 you guys should really stay. I have already said I would not be around past posting the recap. If you are adding value, then you should definitely stay. But just to be fair, if you have the classic board kings who feel only their opinions matter, then its not very helpful is it ? It stops being a useful forum and becomes a personal blog at that point.
  
 I have other things to do and my AUNE changes are done. I have recommended it to ALOT of people, a lot of new purchasers. If I do drop in it will be to help someone in my area of expertise but I am sure you guys can cover the AUNE thread by yourselves. Other folks know where to find me in my main haunts if needed.
  
 Be Well
  
 PS> - I won't take my toys and go home..my tubes recs will stay updated


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Can I ask why you pulled Nichicon Fine Gold caps which are considered one of the better audiophile caps available to put in Panasonic ones?
  
 Oh you replaced those purple caps with Lelons, I gotcha.  I have always been told (and it makes sense) that you can go with a 35V cap in the place of a 10V, just not the other way around.  This is still the general rule right?  Greater than or equal to = okay.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Can I ask why you pulled Nichicon Fine Gold caps which are considered one of the better audiophile caps available to put in Panasonic ones?
> 
> Oh you replaced those purple caps with Lelons, I gotcha.  I have always been told (and it makes sense) that you can go with a 35V cap in the place of a 10V, just not the other way around.  This is still the general rule right?  Greater than or equal to = okay.


 

 Me ? No..
  
 The purple no name caps - I replaced with Panasonics.
  
 The Lelons I left alone.
  
 The Nichicons on the head amp board I left also ...SO I just changed the purple caps - 330UF 35v
  
 by the way, the original purple caps are mad in Taiwan


----------



## spacequeen7

can someone recommend good  primary supply caps to replace my Lelon ,the Nicichon 35volts 3300uF are taller (they are way taller then shown in this picture  I would have to install them sideways 
 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/URZ1V332MRD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cavfLNkWkbIMu8RR6n7lR4%3D ),so I'm looking for some shorty's


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> can someone recommend good  primary supply caps to replace my Lelon ,the Nicichon 35volts 3300uF are taller (they are way taller then shown in this picture  I would have to install them sideways
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/URZ1V332MRD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cavfLNkWkbIMu8RR6n7lR4%3D ),so I'm looking for some shorty's


 

 Are you looking to replace these ? The ones I ordered seemed about 3mm taller too (Nichicon) and I did not use them but because of height. Are you in the US ?


----------



## arcorob

Never mind ...here you go...form mouser...these are your specs, right ?
  
 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/URZ1E332MHD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cavfLNkWkbI9aMB5dF6xM0%3d


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> Are you looking to replace these ? The ones I ordered seemed about 3mm taller too (Nichicon) and I did not use them but because of height. Are you in the US ?


 
  
  


arcorob said:


> Never mind ...here you go...form mouser...these are your specs, right ?
> 
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/URZ1E332MHD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cavfLNkWkbI9aMB5dF6xM0%3d


 
 yes I'm in US and want to replace them , looking at the dimensions ,are you sure they will fit ? 
 EDIT; the Nicichon's I have were linked in my previous post and they are jumbo size 
  
 EDIT ; I will have to open Aune again and measure Lelon's


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> yes I'm in US and want to replace them , looking at the dimensions ,are you sure they will fit ?
> EDIT; the Nicichon's I have were linked in my previous post and they are jumbo size
> 
> EDIT ; I will have to open Aune again and measure Lelon's


 

 99% sure...
  
 The ones I ordered (and measured against the Lelons) are 25mm tall. Remember I said they were just a few mm taller ? well, the link I gave you was 20mm...5mm shorter and should match perfectly - always good to check if you can though


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Do they not have Fine Gold series caps that are shorties which will work for us?
  
 Do we have room to run axials?  I was trying to find Black Gates, but they are dumb expensive at 3300uF ratings.
  
 I'll have my amp/dac probably Friday and I'd like to go ahead and get the upgraded components, I already have 2 NOS tubes on the way.
  
 Elna Silmics' are supposed to be great caps and you can find 3300uF (50V) for under $12 for two of them, but they are 50mm...
  
 Rubycons' will definitely work, they are 20mm.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Do they not have Fine Gold series caps that are shorties which will work for us?
> 
> Do we have room to run axials?  I was trying to find Black Gates, but they are dumb expensive at 3300uF ratings.
> 
> ...


 

 You can..but remember these are power path caps, not signal path. The Nichicons 105 degrees would be fine for the purple cap and lelon replacements. It would be the headphone amp caps that youmight want LOW ESR but even then...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I decided to pick these up for secondaries (2):
  
 (Elna Red Cerafine 470uF 25V)
  

  
 I realize these are power components, but the caps are still filters for the incoming current, so the higher quality cap the better filtering.  It's like running a UPS between your PC and the wall outlet vs. not using one.
  
 I know one thing once all my stuff arrives I should have this baby rocking!  So far my upgrades for my not yet arrived Aune T1:
  
*NOS Amperex ECC88 6DJ8 Tube*
*NOS Philips 6922 JAN 6DJ8* (just for another option in voicing)
*2x Nichicon 25V 3300UF FW* (Primaries)
*4x Elna Red Cerafine 470uF 25V* (Secondaries)
*2x "Heavy Duty High Mass" Aerospace Silicon Tube Dampening Rings* (Yes these are a lot of hype, but I figured I'd try them since I will be moving this around; especially since hot tubes are way more prone to damaging)


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I just heard the US version has 330uF caps for secondaries instead of 470uF like the UK version, can anyone in the US confirm that for me?


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> I just heard the US version has 330uF caps for secondaries instead of 470uF like the UK version, can anyone in the US confirm that for me?


 

 US Version
 secondaries (I call them the purple caps ) 330uf 35v
 primaries (Lelons) 3300uf 25v


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> I decided to pick these up for secondaries (2):
> 
> (Elna Red Cerafine 470uF 25V)
> 
> ...


 
 Should be good...what you wanted to compare was ripple current not ESR rating. LOW ESR can sometimes have low RMS ripple current numbers..low ripple means more work means more heat in PS caps...or so I understand...in all cases, this is a DAC not a power amp so it will be fine...and great quality !!


----------



## NCSUZoSo

But can someone verify if the US models have 330uF vs 470uF for the secondaries?


----------



## mhamel

ncsuzoso said:


> But can someone verify if the US models have 330uF vs 470uF for the secondaries?


 
  
 Not sure if it's specifically the US model, or it's just that there was a component change somewhere along the way so that some have 330uF, some have 470uF.    Hard to know for sure without confirmation from Aune.


----------



## arcorob

mhamel said:


> Not sure if it's specifically the US model, or it's just that there was a component change somewhere along the way so that some have 330uF, some have 470uF.    Hard to know for sure without confirmation from Aune.


 

 Always, the easiest way to be 100% sure...Look at the caps themselves...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

This is mine:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/121237359749?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
  
 If you scroll down they actually show internal shots, someone with knowledge of the components used in the Aune T1 might be able to tell me what I have.


----------



## mhamel

ncsuzoso said:


> This is mine:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/121237359749?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> If you scroll down they actually show internal shots, someone with knowledge of the components used in the Aune T1 might be able to tell me what I have.


 
  
 There are no views of the values on the caps in those photos.  However, even if there were - don't trust generic internal shots.  Open it up and check for yourself.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Found out the pictures on the Ebay ad are jacked from a review, lol.


----------



## spacequeen7

ok,after about 20h burn in ...I have to say the secondary power recapping  worked out pretty good ,I love the highs ,they are *very *clean ,the overall sound improved and for some reason my beloved Valvo (red) sounds great on he400..I'm not sure if this have anything to do with the new caps since I also made some changes in WASAPI ,can't wait to replace the other caps .Thanks Randy


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> ok,after about 20h burn in ...I have to say the secondary power recapping  worked out pretty good ,I love the highs ,they are *very *clean ,the overall sound improved and for some reason my beloved Valvo (red) sounds great on he400..I'm not sure if this have anything to do with the new caps since I also made some changes in WASAPI ,can't wait to replace the other caps .Thanks Randy


 

 Good to hear...I am in the same place...Caps sound broken in..no more hint of choral clutter and the overall space is just better...MUCH cleaner bass...Glad I did it...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Guys, obviously I would open the Aune T1 up and look at them (especially considering I have purchased upgraded caps for some locations), but I don't have the T1 yet... lol


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Guys, obviously I would open the Aune T1 up and look at them (especially considering I have purchased upgraded caps for some locations), but I don't have the T1 yet... lol


 

 Then don't worry about changing caps until you get it home and try it !!! LOL
  
 You may like it just as it is (I did). I just did a "what the hell"...but almost didn't bother.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Well I am the type that mods/tweaks/OCs everything and I wouldn't feel like this was performing up to full potential without taking my soldering/desoldering iron to it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 You should see what I have done to my Fender Blues Jr guitar amp (2x EL84 + 3x 12AX7 tube amp)


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Well I am the type that mods/tweaks/OCs everything and I wouldn't feel like this was performing up to full potential without taking my soldering/desoldering iron to it
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Ahh...I understand and feel your OCD completely - as I have it in boatloads...LOL


----------



## NCSUZoSo

This is my baby (Fender Blues Jr.):
  

  
 If you know what a stock one looks like you will notice there is a ton of upgrades/mods there 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
  

  
  
  
 I know yall will at least appreciate the all NOS Tubes (also seen in my avatar).


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> This is my baby (Fender Blues Jr.):
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Very sweet ! I noticed the EL84's right off the bat..can tell you recapped, rewired ? and probably new resistors ?
  
 Are those 12AX7's ?
  
 My baby is getting new caps ..just because ...some high end stuff...
  
 she takes 11 normal electrolytic (radial) - going all Nichicon
 and 8 of the push type (the big blue Philips getting replaced with Kendeil's)
  
 The film caps are already wima so leaving them


----------



## lwrs10

ncsuzoso said:


> This is my baby (Fender Blues Jr.):
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Nice! I am building my own guitar amp right now with a 12ax7 driver, 12au7 splitter, and 2 6L6 in push/pull. Its an organ amp I picked up last night.


----------



## Tristan944

It would be awesome if we could get a running post that lists upgrades to various components in the T1. The information can include:
  
 The part that was changed
 The brand and model number
 How much the part cost and from what store
 Effects of new part on the audio characteristics


----------



## NCSUZoSo

arcorob said:


> Very sweet ! I noticed the EL84's right off the bat..can tell you recapped, rewired ? and probably new resistors ?
> 
> Are those 12AX7's ?
> 
> ...


 
  
 That is one 12AY7 for better clean tones and two 12AX7s.
  
  


lwrs10 said:


> Nice! I am building my own guitar amp right now with a 12ax7 driver, 12au7 splitter, and 2 6L6 in push/pull. Its an organ amp I picked up last night.


 
  
 Very nice, I wish I had thought about building my own, but I am very happy with my highly modded/upgraded Blues Jr.
  
 Here is one of the latest pedals I built, a 5 Knob compressor (Ross Clone)
  

  
  
 Now let's not derail this thread


----------



## penmarker

Man, I wish some of you guys are over here. I still don't know what to do with my channel imbalance  maybe you guys can use your modding skillzz to take it apart and take a look at it.


----------



## BaTou069

Just wondering:
  
 How should I burn-in the tube? Just being connected is ok? Or should I play music? And should a headphone be connected to it?
  
 Thanks


----------



## arcorob

batou069 said:


> Just wondering:
> 
> How should I burn-in the tube? Just being connected is ok? Or should I play music? And should a headphone be connected to it?
> 
> Thanks


 

 Yes yes, and maybe yes
  

Should be connected
Should play music
Should connect RCA's out (if that is how you use it)
Should connect headphones
  
 why ?
  
 First, there are obviously schools of thought on break-in (caps, wires, tubes). Lets just stick with, yes, we believe.
  
 Just having something idling puts power through the device, but doesn't emulate real world listening. It would be like breaking in a car by letting it idle and never going anywhere.
  
 If your AUNE is new, you not only want to break in tubes, but the capacitors also...So why the RCA's and the Headphones? Well, the headphone amp has its own set of caps to break in.
  
 Now if this is not brand new, just the tube, then you can just use one path, the RCA's. If the tube is used, no need for break-in


----------



## arcorob

penmarker said:


> Man, I wish some of you guys are over here. I still don't know what to do with my channel imbalance  maybe you guys can use your modding skillzz to take it apart and take a look at it.


 

 Simple question...have you tried a different tube? What channel imbalance?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Guys I can't believe it!  My Aune T1 arrived today with both of my NOS tubes and my tube dampening rings, all together!!  Only bad part is I can't put the protective part around the tube with how thick these dampening rings are (they are "aerospace" grade).
  
 I'll let you know my first impressions after I rotate through the 3 tubes I have available.  After I fix some lunch and settle down to let my SoundMAGIC HP100s rip!
  
 Really excited to come home from work and find this outside!!
  
  
 BTW I think I am going to go with the dampening rings over the plastic like shield, because that shield really protects nothing, I actually snapped one (glad you get an extra set) trying to fit it around the rings.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Guys I can't believe it!  My Aune T1 arrived today with both of my NOS tubes and my tube dampening rings, all together!!  Only bad part is I can't put the protective part around the tube with how thick these dampening rings are (they are "aerospace" grade).
> 
> I'll let you know my first impressions after I rotate through the 3 tubes I have available.  After I fix some lunch and settle down to let my SoundMAGIC HP100s rip!
> 
> ...


 

 Plastic shields are for sissies..LOL
  
 Glad to hear....just a reminder...everything requires break in. You will have an initial impression (should be a good one) but after 20 to 40 hours of good play, it will bloom....caps DO have to form...and if you have any NEW or VERY NOS tubes, they will also break in...
  
 CONGRATS...
  
 Again, shields are for sissies...no matter what size,,..LOL


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Here she is with the Amperex ECC88 6DJ8 in it, I snapped this before sitting down to watch True Detective and then I'll start playing with my new toys 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  

  
 BTW I have noticed we have a few tube "noobies" in here and guys you don't want to touch tubes with your bare hands due to the oil on your hands.  It is best to put on latex gloves or cotton if you have them.  You can using rubbing alcohol to clean the oil off, but you may take off the labeling on the tube.


----------



## q2klepto

Is replacing the tube on these Aune T1s just simply plug and play or is there some soldering involved?


----------



## tonephile

Plug and play. My socket is pretty tight, so use caution. Definitely worth putting in a better tube. I think with the better tubes, this compares with units costing 3-5x.


----------



## Chs177

tonephile said:


> I think with the better tubes, this compares with units costing 3-5x.


 
 You can find good tube for $10 shipped and can spend 300-600$. It's you choice.


----------



## arcorob

New tube arrived. Its a replacement for a Mullard I bought that was bad. So he sent me this as a replacement  - Mullard Seimens 6DJ8 in incredible shape. - gave that cool startup FLASH


----------



## lwrs10

ncsuzoso said:


> Here she is with the Amperex ECC88 6DJ8 in it, I snapped this before sitting down to watch True Detective and then I'll start playing with my new toys
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Tubes do not run hot enough to worry about oils on your fingers. The only thing to worry about is wiping off the label. I have never used gloves handling thousands of tubes.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Tubes do not run hot enough to worry about oils on your fingers. The only thing to worry about is wiping off the label. I have never used gloves handling thousands of tubes.


 

 I am glad you said it first...LOL
  
 For decades, people handled tubes, dirty hands, etc. The were not aficionado's, they were average people where all their STUFF had tubes...Only with the rise in vintage gear have these rituals come to be...LOL


----------



## djvkool

I'm pretty n00b when it comes to tube, but what is the best place to buy the tubes, and is there connector type that I need to worry about, or do they all use the same connector?


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> I am glad you said it first...LOL
> 
> For decades, people handled tubes, dirty hands, etc. The were not aficionado's, they were average people where all their STUFF had tubes...Only with the rise in vintage gear have these rituals come to be...LOL


 
  
 +1  - I think the myth about tubes comes from the very true direction not to get skin oils on high temperature bulbs like projector laps, halogen bulbs, etc.
  
 In that case, the glass envelope gets so hot that it can interact with the oils to increase the temperature enough where it can crack/fail.   The replacement lamps for my home theater projector come with a set of thin cotton gloves similar to what's used in photo labs to keep fingerprints off of photo prints.  Makes me wonder how many support calls/bulb replacements those $0.10 gloves have saved them, I'm guessing quite a few.   
  
 Most tubes aren't anywhere near as fragile as they might seem to be.   The printing/labels on NOS tubes can be extremely fragile and easily rub off with a finger, but I've found that once they go through testing and get heated up, that becomes less of an issue.   Side note - I had ordered a pair of 1962 Dario E188CCs from Europe.  The seller "packed" them in a small bubble-wrap lined envelope, as-is, nothing else protecting them, not even in boxes and dropped them in the mail.   They arrived unscathed.  I consider it very lucky that they did, but at the same time, NOS tubes were built to be rugged and to last.
  
      -Mike


----------



## teb1013

djvkool said:


> I'm pretty n00b when it comes to tube, but what is the best place to buy the tubes, and is there connector type that I need to worry about, or do they all use the same connector?




You need a 6DJ8 type tube for the Aune T1. This tube is also listed as E88CC, 6922, 7308 and others. 
Take a look at the thread opener which talks about some different sources and tube types. Depending on where you live there are various dealers. If you are from Australia you can put this in the in thread search and you should find recommendations for dealers. The following provides a basic summary of the 6DJ8 type tubes which work with the Aune T1. http://www.upscaleaudio.com/pages/6922-Tube-Types.html I wouldn't recommend upscale audio for those out of the US. Shipping is too high. There are many tubes discussed on this thread, but the tube starter is


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I buy all my tubes (mainly guitar amp tubes) off of Ebay from sellers who have high ratings and test their tubes on Hickoks or similar.  There is a seller named greengirl613 who is very highly rated for selling tubes and I personally recommend her.  Some people are nay sayers towards Ebay, but I have found some great sounding tubes at very reasonable prices.  However for tubes like my Power/Output tubes on my Fender Blues Jr, I paid a nice premium for highly rated NOS US GE EL84s (from greengirl613).
  
  
 For example here is my RCA/Amperex tube:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/161206328275?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
  
  
 Guys sadly I was too tired last night to test the Aune T1, so I am going to test it at work when I have time, lol.  I will also being using the DAC side with it going USB.  I will report back once I have an initial impression.
  
 I do have one question, what gain settings do you recommend for SoundMAGIC HP100's (32Ω).  I'm guessing 0dB?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

lwrs10 said:


> Tubes do not run hot enough to worry about oils on your fingers. The only thing to worry about is wiping off the label. I have never used gloves handling thousands of tubes.


 
  
 You mean *these* tubes (6922/E88CC/etc.)?  Because I am highly involved in tube amps for guitars which use EL84/EL34/6V6/6L6/etc. and those tubes reach a completely different temperature from preamp tubes in a guitar amp (12AX7/12AY7/etc.)  You are probably right about the oil on your hands not mattering on these low heat output tubes, but I'll stick my policy of not touching tube directly.  There are guys that have been working on amps since when NOS was current production (lol) who I know that all agree with not touching tubes.
  
 However there is one thing I mentioned a few days back that would still apply to these lower heat tubes.  When the tube is "hot" it is way more likely to be damaged (microphonics) than if you let them cool off first before pulling/moving them.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Initial Impressions:
  
 Tubes do make a large difference with this amp/DAC and I can't wait to break in my NOS tubes and caps.  My Philips JAN 6922 are much more bass heavy than my primary Amperex ECC88 6DJ8 which offer tighter bass with better clarity on the top end.  Overall I am highly impressed with the line out going from my Creative ZXR to the Aune T1.  BTW how do you pronounce Aune?  Is it like Tune with an A in the beginning?
  
 I only have 2 hours or so on it, so I'll report back later after I have over 20 hours and I change out the capacitors.  BTW I have another question, if you want to roll tubes on this do you need to turn it off swap the tube and then turn it back on?  This is what I have been doing, but wondering if that is the common method or not.
  
 I still haven't cracked her open because I have either been sleeping/working or spending the little bit of time I have listening to the Aune T1.  I plan to open her up after I am done listening tonight and check which caps are inside. 
  
 I'd appreciate it if someone could also answer my question on the gain settings to use for SoundMAGIC HP100s.


----------



## djvkool

ncsuzoso said:


> I buy all my tubes (mainly guitar amp tubes) off of Ebay from sellers who have high ratings and test their tubes on Hickoks or similar.  There is a seller named greengirl613 who is very highly rated for selling tubes and I personally recommend her.  Some people are nay sayers towards Ebay, but I have found some great sounding tubes at very reasonable prices.  However for tubes like my Power/Output tubes on my Fender Blues Jr, I paid a nice premium for highly rated NOS US GE EL84s (from greengirl613).
> 
> 
> For example here is my RCA/Amperex tube:
> ...


 
  


teb1013 said:


> You need a 6DJ8 type tube for the Aune T1. This tube is also listed as E88CC, 6922, 7308 and others.
> Take a look at the thread opener which talks about some different sources and tube types. Depending on where you live there are various dealers. If you are from Australia you can put this in the in thread search and you should find recommendations for dealers. The following provides a basic summary of the 6DJ8 type tubes which work with the Aune T1. http://www.upscaleaudio.com/pages/6922-Tube-Types.html I wouldn't recommend upscale audio for those out of the US. Shipping is too high. There are many tubes discussed on this thread, but the tube starter is


 
  
 Thank you for your help guys, great starting point for me and I will do some more readings about these tubes


----------



## NCSUZoSo

This would be good reading for you:  http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> This would be good reading for you:  http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8


 

 Holy Crap !!! You just helped me too !!! When I was doing the 12AX7 family, I had diligently read Joes on those and found my Sylvania Black Plate 5751 Gold brand , steel pins...and they were the final choice set for my amp...Unreal tubes...there were close seconds, but these were the cream of the crop (and priced accordingly...LOL)
  
 Now you show me he as a 6DJ8 review...AWESOME...Thanks


----------



## lwrs10

ncsuzoso said:


> You mean *these* tubes (6922/E88CC/etc.)?  Because I am highly involved in tube amps for guitars which use EL84/EL34/6V6/6L6/etc. and those tubes reach a completely different temperature from preamp tubes in a guitar amp (12AX7/12AY7/etc.)  You are probably right about the oil on your hands not mattering on these low heat output tubes, but I'll stick my policy of not touching tube directly.  There are guys that have been working on amps since when NOS was current production (lol) who I know that all agree with not touching tubes.
> 
> However there is one thing I mentioned a few days back that would still apply to these lower heat tubes.  When the tube is "hot" it is way more likely to be damaged (microphonics) than if you let them cool off first before pulling/moving them.


 
  
  
 I also have many tube amps that use EL84/EL34/6L6/KT88 and so on output tubes. Won't hurt the tube....but may leave a brownish fingerprint.


----------



## arcorob

Okay guys...Jump on one of these if you can...there are some out there. They look like hell(that's just how they look). But one of these is my #1 tube..Top to bottom range clear, musical, awesome soundstage and forward mids...You ARE literally there
  
 http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.Xge+6dj8+smoked&_nkw=ge+6dj8+smoked&_sacat=0&_from=R40


----------



## Kursah

I'm currently listening to my HE-400's from this: Auzen Forte --> Analogue --> FiiO E9 or Auzen Forte --> Optical --> Denon AVR-1613 (also part of my 2.1 system is necessary to be an extension of any audio chain I use... the headphone output is good, but the E9 has just enough more power to help the HE-400's have a little more impact otherwise I wouldn't be here!).
  
 A friend of mine shined me onto the $129/shipped deal going on...and I'm tempted but I don't want to side-grade. I have been told the DAC in the T1 is superior to the one in my Auzen Forte and that the amp should do a good job but no real comparisons to the E9. My E9 has been steady for years...it's nothing special I know but at the same time it's also not total garbage (at least my part). My sound card amp, my Denon both drive the HE-400 well enough but the E9 has the raw power that adds impact...and it's great! I've read the 400 is the only planar this T1 can run...but that it does a good job, some don't like the pairing...I prefer bass. I don't know if I can afford a bassier tube or not. I am not afraid to EQ and am prepared to use an APO EQ if needed. Is this worth my time or money? Will I gain anything with my HE-400's from this? I listen to a lot of music, mostly rock, hard rock, metal, etc.


----------



## arcorob

kursah said:


> I'm currently listening to my HE-400's from this: Auzen Forte --> Analogue --> FiiO E9 or Auzen Forte --> Optical --> Denon AVR-1613 (also part of my 2.1 system is necessary to be an extension of any audio chain I use... the headphone output is good, but the E9 has just enough more power to help the HE-400's have a little more impact otherwise I wouldn't be here!).
> 
> A friend of mine shined me onto the $129/shipped deal going on...and I'm tempted but I don't want to side-grade. I have been told the DAC in the T1 is superior to the one in my Auzen Forte and that the amp should do a good job but no real comparisons to the E9. My E9 has been steady for years...it's nothing special I know but at the same time it's also not total garbage (at least my part). My sound card amp, my Denon both drive the HE-400 well enough but the E9 has the raw power that adds impact...and it's great! I've read the 400 is the only planar this T1 can run...but that it does a good job, some don't like the pairing...I prefer bass. I don't know if I can afford a bassier tube or not. I am not afraid to EQ and am prepared to use an APO EQ if needed. Is this worth my time or money? Will I gain anything with my HE-400's from this? I listen to a lot of music, mostly rock, hard rock, metal, etc.


 

 You will do great and YES, you can afford a BASS tube...they are pretty inexpensive as tubes go...and it is killer through a system with speakers..or RCA out to a different head amp...


----------



## Kursah

That good huh? Well I'm listening. I just need some guidance.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I figured this thing had an opamp/s inside, but I didn't expect it to be a DIP8, hell I have like 4 or 5 extras of those sitting around including a MUSES01.  I've never even heard of the one that is in it, it says ATMLU122 (which I can't find a damn thing on) along with the BB OPA2134UA.  I also wasn't expecting to see a Burr Brown DAC inside either though.  The one odd thing I thought was I didn't expect the T1 to output sound with no tube inserted (using line in mode).  I know the tube isn't a power tube, but still kind of surprised me when I was rolling through tubes.
  
 BTW, my secondaries are the 330uF not the 470uF.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> I figured this thing had an opamp/s inside, but I didn't expect it to be a DIP8, hell I have like 4 or 5 extras of those sitting around including a MUSES01.  I've never even heard of the one that is in it, it says ATMLU122 (which I can't find a damn thing on) along with the BB OPA2134UA.  I also wasn't expecting to see a Burr Brown DAC inside either though.


 
 And is that good ?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Well yea, seeing a Burr Brown DAC inside something this affordable is always nice.  However I'd like to know what that DIP8 opamp's purpose is on the board and if it is single or dual.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Well yea, seeing a Burr Brown DAC inside something this affordable is always nice.  However I'd like to know what that DIP8 opamp's purpose is on the board and if it is single or dual.


 
 And from what I see the ATMLU 122 is some sort of 2.5gb transceiver ? Hard to find data ...that was a guess about ATMLU 136


----------



## lwrs10

Have quite a few more tubes to add to the list. Using a 5BK7A right now. It sounds great. Running the heater 1.3 volts higher than specced *might* shorten the life of the filaments, but who cares.....these tubes are cheap.


----------



## Tristan944

Are the tubes that work for the T1 the same tubes used in amps?


----------



## mhamel

ncsuzoso said:


> Well yea, seeing a Burr Brown DAC inside something this affordable is always nice.  However I'd like to know what that DIP8 opamp's purpose is on the board and if it is single or dual.




That is not an opamp. Many chips can come in a DIP8 package. That chip appears to be a serial EEPROM.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

tristan944 said:


> Are the tubes that work for the T1 the same tubes used in amps?


 

 Yes it is used in other tube amps.


----------



## PKPnytheta47

I wanted to ask people in this forum about this:
  
*"If you change the cord or adapter then don`t forget to change it to one that has a FUSE in it!*
*IMPORTANT! - UK plug fuse should be changed to something between 0,5A - 3A fuse because in stock it comes with 13A fuse which is way too much!"*
  
 I live outside the US and our country uses 220v instead of 100v like the US does, the question is, do I still have to change the fuse as mentioned in the first page (quoted above)?
  
 Thanks everyone!


----------



## arcorob

Am I allowed to mention a great EBAY tube seller (I HAVE NO affiliation except as a buyer). This guy is 100% straight up with the best tubes, fair prices and what you get is STELLER. I have ordered a variety of tubes from him (12AU7, 12AX7, and our own Aune family of tubes) ..awesome quality.
  
 http://stores.ebay.com/tubemaze/


----------



## mhamel

arcorob said:


> Am I allowed to mention a great EBAY tube seller (I HAVE NO affiliation except as a buyer). This guy is 100% straight up with the best tubes, fair prices and what you get is STELLER. I have ordered a variety of tubes from him (12AU7, 12AX7, and our own Aune family of tubes) ..awesome quality.
> 
> http://stores.ebay.com/tubemaze/


 
  
 I've bought from him several times as well and have been very happy with the results.
  
    -Mike


----------



## ElBartoME

I have a quick question. I just recently bought the Aune T1 with the electro-harmonix tube. I really like it a lot this far!
 I'm looking to buy a new tube just to experiment a little with different tubes.
  
 I don't want to spend a lot of money so I searched for one NOS and one new tube. These are the ones that I come up with:
  
http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/de/shop_Sonstige_Markenroehren_Vorstufenroehren_Doppeltrioden/E88CC_TESLA_Gold_Kontakte_NOS_3220
  
http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/de/shop_Sonstige_Markenroehren_Vorstufenroehren_Doppeltrioden/Gold_Lion_6922_E88CC_Genalex_Russia_2283
  
 I just want one for the moment. So what do you guys recommend? NOS or a brand new one?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

arcorob said:


> Am I allowed to mention a great EBAY tube seller (I HAVE NO affiliation except as a buyer). This guy is 100% straight up with the best tubes, fair prices and what you get is STELLER. I have ordered a variety of tubes from him (12AU7, 12AX7, and our own Aune family of tubes) ..awesome quality.
> 
> http://stores.ebay.com/tubemaze/


 
  
  
 I recommended greengirl613: http://www.ebay.com/usr/greengirl613?_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2754
  
 I see no problem recommending known good sellers, it's no different than linking to a tube selling site.


----------



## arcorob

Okay...good to know...! We want to be able to keep track perhaps of reputable sellers ? By the way, my guy says he ships international ALL the time...so good to know...


----------



## spacequeen7

ncsuzoso said:


> I recommended greengirl613: http://www.ebay.com/usr/greengirl613?_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2754
> 
> I see no problem recommending known good sellers, it's no different than linking to a tube selling site.


 
 My defected Sylvania black plates came from greengirl ,will try to exchange for another tube ..see how this ends 
 P.S. nothing bad to say about the  Amperex I bought from them tho


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> My defected Sylvania black plates came from greengirl ,will try to exchange for another tube ..see how this ends
> P.S. nothing bad to say about the  Amperex I bought from them tho


 

 Yeah..I never want to disparage. I received a defective tube from her also.
  
 ~~Vintage Sylvania ECC85 6AQ8 Black Plates Stereo Tube
  
 Maybe she sent you mine...LOL
  
 She has sent a new tube out though...I just get nervous when I get a bad tube...and hear someone else.
  
 Not the case with Tubemaze and a few others


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I've never received a bad tube from her and almost every tube they sell are tested with numbers provided.  Although they do carry lower cost tubes that either don't test as well or weren't tested for leaks and microphonics.
  
 Even your biggest distributors are going to have bad tubes and even the ones that claim to test every tube for microphonics and leaks are going to have a few slip through the cracks.
  
 I will continue to buy from greengirl613 and I've purchased probably 6 tubes ranging from EL84s to 12AY7s from her; it's not like I haven't also purchased from other sellers too though.
  
  
 These two Amperex 6DJ8s look nice and they are legit (you can tell by the ripple on top and the 2 flanges bent at 90 degrees above the mica spacer)
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/181291525905


----------



## Kursah

I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on the $129 /shipped deal for this. Bypass my Auzen Forte (after 7 years of service) and replace my FiiO E9 after several years of service with this one unit that will be my sound device for my PC, headphone amp and output to my Denon AVR-1613 receiver. 
  
 I know the FiiO E9 has good power, I just can't seem to find anyone that can compare these two amps together...I am looking for more than a side-grade but I realise at this budget that may not be realistic. I paid more for the Auzen card alone in 2009...and around the same for the FiiO in 2011 I think??? I don't recall anymore. 
  
 I listen primarily to my HE-400's, I'm planning on getting pads and playing with my D2000's again after I finish fixing them. Is this unit worth my time? I got one yes a couple pages back but was hoping for a few more responses...I've been researching but some like this amp with the 400's some dont...some say different tube some say different amp.
  
 I like my bass...I'm not afraid to EQ... but any suggestions on a good bassy tube? Should I just try the stock tube and EQ?


----------



## SirDedale

ncsuzoso said:


> These two Amperex 6DJ8s look nice and they are legit (you can tell by the ripple on top and the 2 flanges bent at 90 degrees above the mica spacer)
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/181291525905


 
 Anyone in Canada wants to pull the trigger on that one with me?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

kursah said:


> I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on the $129 /shipped deal for this. Bypass my Auzen Forte (after 7 years of service) and replace my FiiO E9 after several years of service with this one unit that will be my sound device for my PC, headphone amp and output to my Denon AVR-1613 receiver.
> 
> I know the FiiO E9 has good power, I just can't seem to find anyone that can compare these two amps together...I am looking for more than a side-grade but I realise at this budget that may not be realistic. I paid more for the Auzen card alone in 2009...and around the same for the FiiO in 2011 I think??? I don't recall anymore.
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Do you plan on listening to only stereo through your Denon receiver?


----------



## Kursah

Yep. I got a good deal on it for my current 2.1 setup. It's for my PC audio...no 5.1...not enough room or $$ or etc.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> I've never received a bad tube from her and almost every tube they sell are tested with numbers provided.  Although they do carry lower cost tubes that either don't test as well or weren't tested for leaks and microphonics.
> 
> Even your biggest distributors are going to have bad tubes and even the ones that claim to test every tube for microphonics and leaks are going to have a few slip through the cracks.
> 
> ...


 

 Easy hoss...Lori is great to deal with but I do question the tubes or the calibration on her tester. Did you happen to notice many of the tubes for sale are pretty off on balance ?
 Anyway, I should have my replacement in a few days and will report back..I will also give her positive feedback since she has stood behind her stuf...


----------



## arcorob

Still think you guys need to try one of these...
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-TUBES-AVAILABLE-PRICE-EA-GE-SMOKED-GLASS-6DJ8-ECC88-TUBES-SOME-OF-MY-FAVS-/261302102704?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd6d1aab0
  
 This type is available from different sellers...and I ordered a spare...LOL


----------



## NCSUZoSo

> it's not like I haven't also purchased from other sellers too though


----------



## spacequeen7

kursah said:


> I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on the $129 /shipped deal for this. Bypass my Auzen Forte (after 7 years of service) and replace my FiiO E9 after several years of service with this one unit that will be my sound device for my PC, headphone amp and output to my Denon AVR-1613 receiver.
> 
> I know the FiiO E9 has good power, I just can't seem to find anyone that can compare these two amps together...I am looking for more than a side-grade but I realise at this budget that may not be realistic. I paid more for the Auzen card alone in 2009...and around the same for the FiiO in 2011 I think??? I don't recall anymore.
> 
> ...


 
 you going to like T1/400's ,as for tubes I like a lot of bass but it have to be tight (thump-er,pronounce,heart pounding ) and out of all my tubes I think Siemens and Mullard (like the one below) suits this headphones best ,natural sounding tubes with emphasis on high works very well also
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/350966835949?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
 if you want max /heavy bass and large soundstage -Amperex white labeled or Orange Globe will hit the spot 
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/360714996891?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
  
 EDIT; I would try the one arcorob is recommending ,both the Mullard I linked and the one he posted have very similar build characteristics


----------



## NCSUZoSo

arcorob said:


> Still think you guys need to try one of these...
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-TUBES-AVAILABLE-PRICE-EA-GE-SMOKED-GLASS-6DJ8-ECC88-TUBES-SOME-OF-MY-FAVS-/261302102704?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3cd6d1aab0
> 
> This type is available from different sellers...and I ordered a spare...LOL


 
  
 What do you like about them?  I'm partial to GE tubes in my guitar amp, so it wouldn't be hard to talk me into it haha.


----------



## q2klepto

Just got my Aune T1 - and this question probably answered in the prev 300 pages, but do i set Windows volume to 100% and then adjust volume using the knob? 
  
 Quote:


arcorob said:


> You will do great and YES, you can afford a BASS tube...they are pretty inexpensive as tubes go...and it is killer through a system with speakers..or RCA out to a different head amp...


 
  
 I also have my HE-400 hooked into this amp, any recommendations for a "bass" tube? That amperex one? I thought it was pretty pricey...about $80 on Ebay..unless thats considered cheap? lol


----------



## spacequeen7

that Amperex is indeed pricey but this is "D" getter ,white label vintage you would pay a LOT more for one of this gold pinned ,you don't have to buy it it's just an example,there is a lot of Amperex you can try for $20


----------



## NCSUZoSo

q2klepto said:


> Just got my Aune T1 - and this question probably answered in the prev 300 pages, but do i set Windows volume to 100% and then adjust volume using the knob?


 
  
  
 You may, basically you have at least two volume control knobs and you want to balance the volume to give you the best sound.  So you may want 50% or 70% or even 30%, depending on what sounds best, there is no specific answer for every setup.
  
 You also have the gain settings on the bottom of the T1 to play with.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> What do you like about them?  I'm partial to GE tubes in my guitar amp, so it wouldn't be hard to talk me into it haha.


 
 It is just amazing..It looks like a burnt out tube...lol...that's the way they were made...but at every sonic level..gorgeous...wide stage, in your face mids....It surprised the crap out of me as a favorite...It is in a three way tie with two other tubes...maybe two way tie for first place out of 11 tubes tried...


----------



## arcorob

q2klepto said:


> I also have my HE-400 hooked into this amp, any recommendations for a "bass" tube? That amperex one? I thought it was pretty pricey...about $80 on Ebay..unless thats considered cheap? lol


 

 PM me..I'll send you one if you are in the states...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Amperex tubes are notorious for fakes is the main problem with them, you can read some general info on how to spot a genuine tube:

  


> Be careful when you chase these guys. The reputation of Siemens & Amperexes precedes them and they are frequent targets for counterfeiters. How do you know if a tube in question is the genuine article? Well, fortunately there are a few basic checks you can perform to differentiate true Siemens & Amperexes from relabeled Sylvanias and Tungsrams.
> First, check the top of the tube in question. Siemens & Amperexes always have small ridges in the surface of the glass on top of the tube radiating outward from the nipple. These tubes will have 4 ridges, though sometimes only two of them are easily visible. The concept here is to look down on the top of the tube. The 2 or 4 ridges should divide the circular silver top of the tube in half or into quarters. No ridges? No genuine article pass on it.
> Second, check the metal shield above the upper mica spacer. On Siemens & Amperexes it’s circular with two raised rectangular sections on opposite edges of the shield. On most fakes that shield is a perfectly flat disc.
> Third, about 90% of Siemens tubes have a 1 or 2 digit number molded into the inside bottom of the tube glass centered between the pins. It can sometimes be very hard to see but it’s usually there. Remember, not all Siemens have it, but if your tube passes test one & two and has the number(s), it's a Siemens.
> ...


----------



## Kursah

I can't justify another $80-90 for a tube on top of buying this amp...I could if I had the cash to play with but I don't. I want a bassy tube if I get this (well...at this point I just gotta get home and get the funds lined up to place the order). But if I gotta spend almost $100 for a tube with more bass, I may just shelf this whole idea. Though the other link provided was closer to $30, which I still might have trouble coming up with is a lot easier pill to swallow in my current situation. 
  
 Any other suggestions for bassy tubes? Thanks for the suggestions and help thus far!


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I see no reason you need to buy one of the most famous/expensive tubes out there in order to produce a bassy signature.  I have a JAN Philips E88CC (Military Spec) tube right now that is very bassy as a backup tube, but I would be willing to part with it if you needed it.  I'm talking $30 Shipped, so this is well below the ridiculous pricing of the Amperex tubes (and I own one of those, lol).


----------



## Kursah

I'm interested in a $30 bassy tube. I went to purchase a T1 a few moments ago and there's only 220v left. I can get a 110v off of Amazon for $160...I assume after replacing the psu and whatever other components I'll be into it that much total. Hmm...


----------



## arcorob

Tube review, short and sweet
  
 4 Tubes that will never steer you wrong (at least in an AUNE T1) and not break the bank.
  
 I have been spending time breaking in a bunch of NOS tubes. In the case of these 4, only one needed break-in to sound awesome. That one went from ugly duckling to swan.
  
 Will I give a separate review of each ? Nope. Because they are all so close with two that stand above by a horse hair. In no particular order because they all deserve 5 stars.
  

GE Branded 6GM8 marked Made In Holland - about $20
GE Branded 6AQ8 made by Siemens in Germany (halo type, not A-Frame) - about $20
IEC Branded Mullard 6GM8 made in Germany - A -Frame type (not Halo) - Can be Mullard branded but A Frame - about $30
GE made in USA 6DJ8 made in USA - Smokey tube (looks like you can't see through) Halo Getter- About $20
  
 So who would be top two if its all you could own ? The GE 6AQ8 and the Mullard. The next two are tied and so closely behind the first two as to be nearly indistinguishable. The Smokey GE could also be a #1 depending on you system as it has all the attributes of the top two. They get an extra 1/8th star (that close) for every so slightly better tighter base.
  
 Hope this helps...I know people rave about ampere, but I have 3 now and not as impressed. Maybe they are better with headphones but with speakers (towers) they sound a bit dull.


----------



## tonephile

kursah said:


> I'm interested in a $30 bassy tube. I went to purchase a T1 a few moments ago and there's only 220v left. I can get a 110v off of Amazon for $160...I assume after replacing the psu and whatever other components I'll be into it that much total. Hmm...


 
 Got mine on Amazon. Glad I did. The first one had one side that would go in and out when I pressed the volume knob. Return was easy. Ordered another and replacement has been perfect.


----------



## MrEleventy

arcorob said:


> Hope this helps...I know people rave about ampere, but I have 3 now and not as impressed. Maybe they are better with headphones but with speakers (towers) they sound a bit dull.


I would have to say that yeah, they're better for headphones than speakers. They probably sound dull due to the slight treble roll off which is necessary for some headphones.


----------



## arcorob

mreleventy said:


> I would have to say that yeah, they're better for headphones than speakers. They probably sound dull due to the slight treble roll off which is necessary for some headphones.


 

 Now that makes sense...because when I listen to my tubes through speakers, the are perfect ..but through the AUNE headphone amp...YUCK...I am NOT impressed with that portion AT ALL.
  
 I am going to try an experiment tomorrow. RCA out to a Bravo II headphone amp I have (and like) with a sweet Mulllard Long plate 12AU7..see if its better...starting to think it was my headphones (Senn HD280 Pro's)


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Anyone ever compare the Aune T1 DAC with HRT Music Streamer II+ or Centrance DACport LX perhaps?


----------



## MrEleventy

arcorob said:


> Now that makes sense...because when I listen to my tubes through speakers, the are perfect ..but through the AUNE headphone amp...YUCK...I am NOT impressed with that portion AT ALL.
> 
> I am going to try an experiment tomorrow. RCA out to a Bravo II headphone amp I have (and like) with a sweet Mulllard Long plate 12AU7..see if its better...starting to think it was my headphones (Senn HD280 Pro's)


Agreed, I never did like the headphone out of the aune for headphones. I used the rca out into a Objective2 and it was tons better. Then upgraded to a darkvoice 336se. Had the same setup for 9 months running with no plans on changing.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

kursah said:


> I'm interested in a $30 bassy tube. I went to purchase a T1 a few moments ago and there's only 220v left. I can get a 110v off of Amazon for $160...I assume after replacing the psu and whatever other components I'll be into it that much total. Hmm...


 
  
 You can find them all day long (the newer version) for $145-$150 on Ebay and they got mine to me in 3 days.
  
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/121237359749?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
  
 This is the person who sold me mine, do make an offer and offer him $144 and he'll take it (that is what he sold me mine for).
  
  


> I assume after replacing the psu and whatever other components I'll be into it that much total. Hmm...


 
  
 Why are you going to replace the PSU?  Also you only need to replace the secondary caps for sure, the primaries if you wanted to.  If you go for high quality caps like I did you are looking at around $20 for those 4 caps if you go with like ELNA Silmic IIs'


----------



## spacequeen7

this are little fatter then Lelons 
  
  
 here is link for the caps
 http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=URZ1E332MHDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-URZ1E332MHD
  


  
 and the other two I replaced earlier 
  
 http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=UVZ1V471MPDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-UVZ1V471MPD


----------



## NCSUZoSo

The outer surface of an electrolytic capacitor is not a conductive material (except the top), so it should not matter at all if they are touching.  There are plenty of DIY projects I have seen where they have a row of 2-4 capacitors and they are all touching on their sides.  The main thing is to solder it like you did the secondaries so the leads have no possible way of touching each other, that is where your problem would come in.


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> this are little fatter then Lelons
> 
> 
> here is link for the caps
> ...


 

 Nice...have you listened yet ? Started break-in ?


----------



## spacequeen7

yeap ..


----------



## arcorob

Well well...received two AUNE related packages today...
  
 1 - Smokey Joe GE tube...lOL  its a spare because they are that good...and this one sounds awesome...
  
 1 package of ELna Cerafine caps - I ordered weeks ago - didn;t know it was from china...If they are fakes, they are damn nice looking ones...
  
 Side note..also received caps for my amp...Nichicons..They are BLUE now...hmmm...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

arcorob said:


> Well well...received two AUNE related packages today...
> 
> 1 - Smokey Joe GE tube...lOL  its a spare because they are that good...and this one sounds awesome...
> 
> ...


 
  
 Very nice!
  
 Coil talked me out of Cerafine label and went with SILMIC II instead for the secondary caps, but I am still putting my red label Cerafines on the headphone board with Nichicon FWs for the primaries (all come in at 25mm height).
  
 These are the Cerafine Caps I got: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171067285270?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
  
 Please tell me yours are different and I didn't pay for "vintage" Cerafine caps that are really not odd balls.  I really like the red color 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and I know Cerafine caps from building guitar effect pedals.  Take a look at that link and tell me if yours look the same or how they do look.  They are probably black and gold right?  The reds are supposed to be a "well known" good capacitor for audio usage, possibly rivaling the SILMIC II caps.
  
  
 Also today I decided to bite on a tube I have been eyeing for a little while, a Siemens E88CC 6922 CCA A9.  This is supposed to be in the top 5 best sounding 6992 tubes available according to which reviews you read.
  
 Has anyone ever tried replacing the BB opamp?  I know it is surface mounted, but some of us (me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) are able to desolder and solder surface mount components.
  
 One other thing, what is the general consensus on the Novib Socket Savers?  To the people who own them, do you feel like it was money well worth spent if you are rolling tubes pretty regular?  I do agree that Chinese socket is very tight and some NOS tubes don't *favor* it much.  Compared to the sockets on my Fender Blues Jr. the socket on the Aune T1 is extremely tight and hard to remove/insert a tube in comparison.


----------



## arcorob

I keep losing posts


----------



## NCSUZoSo

arcorob said:


> I keep losing posts


 
  
 You need to use more heat on your soldering iron  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
  
 BTW guys, I decided to "go all out" and get the NOVIB Socket Saver© due to how tight the socket is with NOS tubes.


----------



## spacequeen7

I really like Socket Saver but I think the price could be lower and I agree that stock socket just blows -way to tight ..it's so tight it will make squeaking noise


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> You need to use more heat on your soldering iron
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 That's what I posted about (and lost it) definitely worth it. Chance of breaking the original ? Slim...but if it does, what a pain in the ....
  
 My caps, black and gold...but


----------



## NCSUZoSo

lol I gotcha, I would have understood if you said pins!


----------



## Leno

I got two of them for 5$ only. Works fine.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Well yea you can find the cheap Chinese ones all over Ebay, but if you want quality ones with silicon dampening and the female pins modeled after NOS Philips pins (and the pins are gold/thicker).
  
 Nobody is saying you have to buy these, it's just those with the funds available are going for them.


----------



## Leno

Posted like alternative, that works. And it block wild light from under the tube exactly like the expensive one.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




​


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Yea I'm not a fan of the LED under the stock socket, reminds me of guitar effects pedals that don't really use the tube at all.


----------



## teb1013

ncsuzoso said:


> Yea I'm not a fan of the LED under the stock socket, reminds me of guitar effects pedals that don't really use the tube at all.




I think most people hate it. The white color blocks any glow from the tube. CoiL put a red disc of some type over the LED which looked much better and gave an illusion of tube glow. With the socket saver the LED will be blocked but the tube will have very little glow because it is being used as a buffer only. Ironically even the Woo WA7 uses an LED under the tubes, but at least it is red.


----------



## spacequeen7

new arrivals ,Ultron looks wild and this Mullard is so good I had to get another one


----------



## arcorob

Very cool...congrats..I have to figure out what to do with my overload of tubes...LOL


----------



## spacequeen7

the Ultron sounds great , it presents the bass like no other and the soundstage is boss,the mid-plate runs from top to bottom


----------



## arcorob

Interesting AUNE Capacitor find..
  
 So I finally got a capacitance tester today and decided to do some reseach
  
 tested the 330Uf caps from Panasonic - 350 reading
  
 Tested the Elna 330uf - 341 reading
  
 Tested the original purple caps - 335
  
 so they are spot on..Now..that could be because these are broken in vs the other two which have never been mounted....but the point is..they aint that bad...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

You can't judge a capacitor simply by the farad reading and there are multiple ways it will vary, the main one being heat and age.
  
 You also have to "worry" about ESR of a capacitor.
  
 This is a great guide and general information on capacitors that I have used in the past: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/captest.htm#ctcoo
  
 I doubt there is anyone in here that won't learn something about capacitors and capacitor testing from reading that web page.  I am an Electrical Engineering student (Jr.) at North Carolina State University and I learned many things from reading it, so check it out if you want to know more about caps and cap testing.  You can technically test a cap with a normal multimeter, but you don't get as much info as you do with a Capacitance Meter.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> You can't judge a capacitor simply by the farad reading and there are multiple ways it will vary, the main one being heat and age.
> 
> You also have to "worry" about ESR of a capacitor.
> 
> ...


 

 Very true on the ESR....Thanks for the link ! I just fixed a vintage Yamaha M-65 power amp today...I had recapped it and it had a slight imbalance. Turns out that setting the idle voltage (10mv) need to be done after it warms up MORE than the 2 minutes the service guide recommends...Now all my amps are set and I can switch between Tubes or Solid State


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Well yea you can find the cheap Chinese ones all over Ebay, but if you want quality ones with silicon dampening and the female pins modeled after NOS Philips pins (and the pins are gold/thicker).
> 
> Nobody is saying you have to buy these, it's just those with the funds available are going for them.


 

 Yes, I looked at those also...but I have come to learn sometimes in some things...the money is worth it...and trust me, I am frugal..I go by quality for price ..not just price ...hey they will work for him though.. all that counts..


----------



## lwrs10

ncsuzoso said:


> You can't judge a capacitor simply by the farad reading and there are multiple ways it will vary, the main one being heat and age.
> 
> You also have to "worry" about ESR of a capacitor.
> 
> ...




I checked my caps with an ESR meter.......


----------



## NCSUZoSo

lwrs10 said:


> I checked my caps with an ESR meter.......


 
  
 My reply wasn't in response to you..............


----------



## spacequeen7

ncsuzoso said:


> My reply wasn't in response to you..............


 
 you posted in a public forum so anyone can respond to you.....................


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Anyone that has used a forum before can obviously tell my response was to arcorob, the post was directly after his post..
  
 What you are saying is like, well you posted something, so anyone on this entire forum can say that post is in response to them.


----------



## spacequeen7

exactly,you are correct


----------



## zetaontherocks

Hi guys,
  
 I have a Pioneer SA 8800, connected to a pair of technics sb lx50, pretty simple, but I really love its sound.I also use a pair of K271 MkII.
  
 Do you think I could use this DAC ? Am I going to notice any improvements ?
  
 Thanks,


----------



## MrEleventy

spacequeen7 said:


> exactly,you are correct


I lol'd


----------



## arcorob

zetaontherocks said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I have a Pioneer SA 8800, connected to a pair of technics sb lx50, pretty simple, but I really love its sound.I also use a pair of K271 MkII.
> 
> ...


 

 Only if you are inputting digital music as a source....


----------



## zetaontherocks

Good, my input is mostly digital,
  
 some vinyls from time to time,
  
 Do you have any other recommendation, preferrably below USD 200 ? I'm in Argentina and with our exchange rates I have to be really decided when I buy something since I receive it via ship and it takes a month or so. Sadly it is still being cheaper for us than buying it here, plus if you want to get it here you don't have any model you want, you just have to deal with a few brands with not all the products being available.
  
 Thanks!


----------



## arcorob

zetaontherocks said:


> Good, my input is mostly digital,
> 
> some vinyls from time to time,
> 
> ...


 

 I think you will do just great with the AUNE. Simple USB out of your PC or tablet, to the DAC, and RCA out of the AUNE to your system. You will find the sound to be quite stunning. Plus, you get the added benefit of trying different tubes to flavor the sound. I read about you system and I think even the stock 6922EH tube will do wonders as the speakers could benefit from the detail.
  
 Best of luck


----------



## lwrs10

ncsuzoso said:


> Anyone that has used a forum before can obviously tell my response was to arcorob, the post was directly after his post..
> 
> What you are saying is like, well you posted something, so anyone on this entire forum can say that post is in response to them.


 
  
  
 I should have said a bit more.......
  
 I checked my caps with an ESR meter and a couple failed.
  
 And you said something about you doubt anyone in here could learn something. You dont know who is in this thread. 
  
 But anyways, back on topic.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

^^ He could use USB for his digital file and then use the line in with the RCA inputs for his records to amplify his headphones.  That way he gets amplification for his analog material and a DAC/Amp for his digital music.  Sounds like a good fit to me.


----------



## mrB

To all those who know the Etymotic Research ER-4S's, and have tried them on the Aune T1, I would be happy to hear your experience as I have the T1 on my shortlist. I have a Mullard PCC88 which I plan to use, which gives nice results in my current Indeed hybrid amplifier.  How well pleased do you think I will be with my ER-4S's fed by the Aune?


----------



## ghostnote

Hey all
  
 Just finished reading this thread (whew), and I'm left with a few questions. 
  
 1. I bought the aune t1 before I read about the capacitor issue. Should I be concerned? If you were me, would you return it in favor of something else?
  
 2. I have he-400's. I used to have DT-990's, and while their sound signature is similar, the 400's are a step up in every respect. That said, it suffers from the same problem: hot treble and recessed mids, though a tad less marked. I've always loved tubey sound, and so I'm looking for a particular tube that would increase those mids and tame the highs. I already have the Amperex OG's; after reading the thread it seemed to fit the bill. So I ask people who have had headphones with this frequency response, what's the best tube for smoothing highs without losing that much detail?
  
 Thanks


----------



## arcorob

ghostnote said:


> Hey all
> 
> Just finished reading this thread (whew), and I'm left with a few questions.
> 
> ...


 

 You read the whole thread ? Wow...you know its 2014 now right? LOL
  
 I can answer #1
  
 Don't worry...it sounds beautiful...some of us sticklers like to play...
  
 #2 I cant answer...I play mine through a system...speakers and headphones...night and day..and for me (just me) I am not super fond of the AUNE headphone amp...I LOVE it as a DAC...but others can tell you which tube with those headphones will sound sweet...


----------



## ghostnote

Yeah. Hehe. It was entertaining. I mainly read it for the tube reviews.


----------



## Purpeltendire

Subbed, mine will be here Thursday. Looking forward to it.  Shame I work Thursday-Sunday, but a little lack of sleep never hurt anyone. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 If anyone is interested, here are a handful of good posts/resources taken from earlier in the thread. I just put them in an HTML file for ease. 
  
http://houseofcolour.site.nfoservers.com/Links/AuneLinks.html


----------



## arcorob

ghostnote said:


> Yeah. Hehe. It was entertaining. I mainly read it for the tube reviews.


 

 Come on man..you know you looked at the pictures ...lol


----------



## Kursah

Got my T1 last night and another tube as well (I'm not at home so I don't recall.. I think an EECC88 or something like that...). Not sure how I feel about it honestly. I have been using my Auzen Forte --> FiiO E9 to drive my HE-400's. Maybe I got too used to the sound I was getting from that combo + EQ. The T1 + ASO EQ is good...but I didn't have a lot of time to tune it...I found it lacking. It still sounded good, but I don't know if I can say this was any kind of upgrade path yet. I will report back as I spend more time A|B-ing it all. I suppose I couldn't expect too much for the price but so far I can't say I'm overly impressed. I may need to enable a gain switch on the bottom as well..I need more volume on the T1 than E9 to reach good listening levels with my HE-400's. I haven't tried any other headphones yet.
  
 I will say it looks nice on my desk...I do wish the power switch was on the top or front...that will limit where I can place it. I don't know what I think about the LED...that may be getting blocked soon if I keep this unit.
  
 It's good, but I don't know if it'll give me what I seek. Just the T1 with no EQ is thin, weak and disappointing to my ears...changing bulbs doesn't have as big of an effect on sound as I had hoped. Maybe it's just because I was expecting something different? Maybe I'm too used to my EQ-ing? I don't  know... but I will report back later once I have time to sit down and tune everything and spend more time with the hardware.


----------



## lwrs10

ghostnote said:


> Hey all
> 
> Just finished reading this thread (whew), and I'm left with a few questions.
> 
> ...




I have the 990's, and like the Mullard and Seimens 6DJ8 tubes to tame the high end.


----------



## spacequeen7

finally received my amp


----------



## arcorob

VERY Cool...
  
 Which one is it ? 336SE ?


----------



## spacequeen7

set up in my sig 
 P.S. I also received a bunch of Silmic II caps and I know you installed few ,how were they ?


----------



## teb1013

spacequeen7 said:


> finally received my amp




That is a beautiful set up! Let us know how the addition of the Darkvoice effects the sound of the basic Aune T1. The 336se is currently selling on eBay for $299 USD. I'd need new phones to make it worthwhile, but the combo looks so great...


----------



## spacequeen7

I was actually surprised that the amp didn't gimp (it's a bit different but not much ) the Aune sound, probably due to the tube combination (I didn't listen to stock tubes that came with it ),it's probably around 10% overall sound improvement with much grater amplification ,I'm loving it 
Aune T1[Amperex]* *>DV 336SE[Tung Sol 7236/Raytheon 6SN7GTB] sounds like Mullard/TS on steroids 





,thanks to MrEleventy for recommendation


----------



## teb1013

The Aune looks so tiny in your set up! That Velleman is a lovely monster. What headphones/speakers do you use with this?


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> I didn't install those..they came late.
> 
> Secondaries have Panasonic and they sound great ! Primary I have Nichicons to replace the Lelons but have not done that...I was busy recapping two other big boys...
> 
> ...


 
 you probably don't need to run heat in that room


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> you probably don't need to run heat in that room


 

 Lets put it this way...If I power the Yamaha, The Velleman and the AUNE on together..the streetlights dim...lol


----------



## MrEleventy

spacequeen7 said:


> I was actually surprised that the amp didn't gimp (it's a bit different but not much ) the Aune sound, probably due to the tube combination (I didn't listen to stock tubes that came with it ),it's probably around 10% overall sound improvement with much grater amplification ,I'm loving it
> [COLOR=6A6A6A]Aune T1[[/COLOR][COLOR=6A6A6A]Amperex][/COLOR][COLOR=6A6A6A]* *[/COLOR][COLOR=6A6A6A]>DV 336SE[Tung Sol 7236/Raytheon 6SN7GTB] sounds like Mullard/TS on steroids [/COLOR] ,thanks to MrEleventy for recommendation


Glad you're enjoying it.


----------



## arcorob

GUES WHAT ? Lori (Greengirl613 on ebay) sent me a tube...out of the blue !!! And what a tube...Amperex PCC88 Orange Globe...looks brand spanking new and sounds awesome. If you are a headphone guy, need more bass but clear bass, not boomy, this is a great tube to get. I have the same type in a 6GM8 and it was boomy.


----------



## copajohn

Well, here goes...
  
 I stumbled upon this wealth of information on Sunday (before the s-bowl).  I've had a T1 for about a year but never played with the tube.  Am hoping to get my Grado RS1i cans in the next few days and I bought some of the following...
  




  
 Amperex PQ 6922 1960 matched pair D Getter 063.  I believe I've done okay.  Spent some bucks to be sure.  What kind of burn in am I looking at for both the cans and the tubes?  Hours?  Days?  Weeks?  And what kind of music should I use or does that matter?
  
 Thank you all for the previous messages.  I read most of them but so much to comprehend and learn about.  BTW, my other cans are Bose QC15 and Sennheiser HD580.


----------



## BenWaB3

I'm getting set to go for a second replacement tube (the first was a GE 6AQ8 recommended by arcorob & I really like it). I've been looking at the Telefunken ECC85's on ebay but in slogging through this thread - I'm up to page 148 plus started reading the most recents around 275 - I come across ones with 188 or 189 being brought up by various list members. What is the difference between them & the 88? I had read the links from Salvatore on page one, so I'm not trying to just skate without doing any research on my own first. Thanks.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

This is the best sounding tube I have heard, easily beating my USA (RCA) made Amperex : http://www.ebay.com/itm/231147463405?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
  
 It's not even a contest really and yes this has the ridges on top with the two bent plates with gold pins, so it's real.  Yes definitely not a cheap tube, but still by far the best thing I have heard, German made.
  
 So far I have been testing Steve Hoffman's 24bit FLAC Sledgehammer via Vinyl.
  
 Next I am going to listen to Gimme Shelter in the available DTS-HD MA Audio 2.0 (original in 24bit remixed).
  
 If you can find one of those cheap, jump on it.


----------



## Purpeltendire

copajohn said:


> Well, here goes...
> 
> I stumbled upon this wealth of information on Sunday (before the s-bowl).  I've had a T1 for about a year but never played with the tube.  Am hoping to get my Grado RS1i cans in the next few days and I bought some of the following...
> 
> ...


 
 Tube burn in can be debated, general consensus is that they won't really change. Just be sure to let your tube warm up properly on the first few uses. 
 As for the Grados, I have a friend who listens to several models and he religiously burns them in for a minimum of 100 hours before commenting on the sound signature. You can still listen to them during this time, but past about 150 hours the phones should have settled into their signature.
 My preference for a burn-in is this: http://www.jlabaudio.com/burn.php 
 I'd just plug the headphones directly into the computer to avoid unnecessary tube wear, and start this before leaving for work or school. When you're using them you can listen to whatever you want.


----------



## WyFi

Is the Aune T1 not very well known or go by another name? I can't find more than one video on Youtube about it or any pictures on 500px. I found some pictures on Flickr and most articles lead me right here, which is fantastic, but little anywhere else. I will be getting mine tomorrow and will definitely be posting vidoes and pictures online showing it off. I like to research the hell out of whatever it is I am purchasing. It took me a month to finally decide on this product over just solid state usb dac/amps.


----------



## arcorob

benwab3 said:


> I'm getting set to go for a second replacement tube (the first was a GE 6AQ8 recommended by arcorob & I really like it). I've been looking at the Telefunken ECC85's on ebay but in slogging through this thread - I'm up to page 148 plus started reading the most recents around 275 - I come across ones with 188 or 189 being brought up by various list members. What is the difference between them & the 88? I had read the links from Salvatore on page one, so I'm not trying to just skate without doing any research on my own first. Thanks.


 

 Benwa...I received an Amperex OG PCC88 out of the blue that is STUNNING. The similar OG in the 6GM8 was muddy (to me) this one is detailed, wide soundstage, forward mids and STRONG bass without being boomy...
  
 it is NOT the a-frame type...(see picture) - Ask Greengirl613 if she has another....


----------



## Salvatore

arcorob said:


> it is NOT the a-frame type...(see picture)


 
  
 Why don't you just post the factory codes?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

arcorob said:


> Benwa...I received an Amperex OG PCC88 out of the blue that is STUNNING. The similar OG in the 6GM8 was muddy (to me) this one is detailed, wide soundstage, forward mids and STRONG bass without being boomy...
> 
> it is NOT the a-frame type...(see picture) - Ask Greengirl613 if she has another....


 
  
 Does that one have the "teacup" getter?


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Does that one have the "teacup" getter?


 

 Not sure - Will check when I get home - Code says 69-15
  
 MY RATINGS HAVE BEEN UPDATED
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/3765#post_10120575


----------



## teb1013

wyfi said:


> Is the Aune T1 not very well known or go by another name? I can't find more than one video on Youtube about it or any pictures on 500px. I found some pictures on Flickr and most articles lead me right here, which is fantastic, but little anywhere else. I will be getting mine tomorrow and will definitely be posting vidoes and pictures online showing it off. I like to research the hell out of whatever it is I am purchasing. It took me a month to finally decide on this product over just solid state usb dac/amps.




Welcome to Head-Fi and the Aune T1 community. Almost all equipment of this sort is niche. Big seller audio products like Beats or Bose are made to play from the headphone jack of an iPod, not to require a dac/amp. This site is one of the few that deals with this type of equipment and most people who are interested in audiophile headphones and associated equipment come here. Aune is one of many manufacturers that serve this community and, the number of times that these have been sold through eBay and Amazon shows that it is pretty popular in the niche of small desktop dac/amp combos (the only one I know of with a tube buffer on the dac). All of this goes to say that you have picked a well made, great sounding product that is popular in this community. Good luck, let us know how this works out for you. Which headphones do you plan to use?


----------



## WyFi

teb1013 said:


> Welcome to Head-Fi and the Aune T1 community. Almost all equipment of this sort is niche. Big seller audio products like Beats or Bose are made to play from the headphone jack of an iPod, not to require a dac/amp. This site is one of the few that deals with this type of equipment and most people who are interested in audiophile headphones and associated equipment come here. Aune is one of many manufacturers that serve this community and, the number of times that these have been sold through eBay and Amazon shows that it is pretty popular in the niche of small desktop dac/amp combos (the only one I know of with a tube buffer on the dac). All of this goes to say that you have picked a well made, great sounding product that is popular in this community. Good luck, let us know how this works out for you. Which headphones do you plan to use?




I originally was looking just for gaming headphones on reddit and kept seeing Head-fi show up. I changed my headphone interest and ended up getting Sennheiser HD558. While I do understand they're not audiophile headphones, they are, hopefully, in the right direction. These blow away my previous ones, the Turtle Beach X12.


----------



## copajohn

Thanks for the heads-up on the burn in site for the headphones!  Appreciate all of the information...


----------



## bbmiller

These units are currently available with the tubes 6N11 OR 6922. If you are buying it today as I am thinking of doing which would you buy?
  
 Is the cleanness of the 5 V DC USB input pretty much not affect your results because it has its own 15 V power supply yes or no?


----------



## teb1013

wyfi said:


> I originally was looking just for gaming headphones on reddit and kept seeing Head-fi show up. I changed my headphone interest and ended up getting Sennheiser HD558. While I do understand they're not audiophile headphones, they are, hopefully, in the right direction. These blow away my previous ones, the Turtle Beach X12.




I have the 558s. Although they don't require an amp, the Aune T1 really brings them alive. I hope that you find the same.


----------



## arcorob

The aune is the baby brother...lol..i use Polk monitor 70 towers (5 way) and a powered Polk sub ... The velleman tube amp at 90wpc puts out more punch than the 170wpc Yamaha...


----------



## arcorob

salvatore said:


> Why don't you just post the factory codes?


 

 Crap....I would swear I looked this morning and on the tube it say 86J2 ?86D2 ? I should have written it down...damn....That is in the embedded in the glass silvery type lettering - in orange, I see 69-15
  
 Not a teacup...nice design. Smooth plates. Across top of plates is a small metal bar (rectangle) coming up from the plates is a disk with a little cut-out (sort of like a dime with chunk missing. Above that, round getter.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Can you show us pics?  I'm curious to see it, I'll be putting pics of my beloved Siemens 6992 CCa A9 up soon.


----------



## isendono

the telefunken ecc85 that i just got from the post is a no go for my aune :U heavy distortion


----------



## arcorob

arcorob said:


> GUES WHAT ? Lori (Greengirl613 on ebay) sent me a tube...out of the blue !!! And what a tube...Amperex PCC88 Orange Globe...looks brand spanking new and sounds awesome. If you are a headphone guy, need more bass but clear bass, not boomy, this is a great tube to get. I have the same type in a 6GM8 and it was boomy.


 
 I had already posted them...but here they are....AWESOKME sounding...and not even fully broken in...I will post better close-up pictures tonight....


----------



## NCSUZoSo

That looks a lot like my Siemens from what I can see, except my Siemens has gold pins.


----------



## BenWaB3

Another Telefunken ECC85 question - I've noticed most of the Telefunkens pictured on ebay & elsewhere have a diamond logo. Every once in awhile though you see one where the logo is circular with what looks like cogs on the outer diameter. Is there a difference between these two tubes? Also, isendono, I just read your post. Do you think you got a defective tube? Most other impressions of the ECC85 have been very positive.TIA
  
 Ben


----------



## exSpire

Hey guys
 I have a newbie question.
  
 When I turn off my pc, should I turn off the Aune T1 (the SW switch at the back) or should I leave it running? What would be better for its' life span?


----------



## Purpeltendire

exspire said:


> Hey guys
> I have a newbie question.
> 
> When I turn off my pc, should I turn off the Aune T1 (the SW switch at the back) or should I leave it running? What would be better for its' life span?


 
  
 Turn it off. The lifespan of the amp itself isn't the problem, but you probably want to save the tubes.


----------



## exSpire

Alright. Thanks


----------



## aopisa

Just received my NOS GE 6AQ8 tube and it sounds great!

I am using the Aune T1 as a DAC streaming from my iPad to a vintage Marantz 2270 receiver through a pair of Linn Sara speakers. 

I am not great at describing what I am hearing, but my impressions are that this tube gives a little more detail than the stock tube. The other word that comes to mind is more natural sound where the 6922 was a bit more "clinical" sounding to me. Also the mid range seems a little more present. 

A big thank you to Arcorob for doing the legwork to help find some of the best sounding tubes that do not cost an arm and a leg!


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> Benwa...I received an Amperex OG PCC88 out of the blue that is STUNNING. The similar OG in the 6GM8 was muddy (to me) this one is detailed, wide soundstage, forward mids and STRONG bass without being boomy...
> 
> it is NOT the a-frame type...(see picture) - Ask Greengirl613 if she has another....


 
 I'm glad you did while I have two and counting bad tubes from  this seller
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/400628720480?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ge-Siemens-6AQ8-ECC85-Stereo-Tube-2210-709-30-/181307144926?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a36bf7ade
  
 ,first it was Sylvania black plates and after exchanging few emails I got another bad one ,actually the replacement was a lot worse then the one I was replacing ,this was the response today 


> We test for strength, shorts, leaks. We don't test in applications because it will be different in each one


 
 I have another one coming today and if this one suck as bad as the other tubes I will avoid this seller in the future 
  
 P.S. she agree to return the money for the last one tho
  
*I think we all should stop recommending any sellers in this thread  *


----------



## WyFi

I love the Aune T1, but not the transformer. It has a buzz and if I put it anywhere on my desk, it vibrates. Even if it's on a padded item, it still buzzes loud enough for me to hear.


----------



## spacequeen7

wyfi said:


> I love the Aune T1, but not the transformer. It has a buzz and if I put it anywhere on my desk, it vibrates. Even if it's on a padded item, it still buzzes loud enough for me to hear.


 
 I would contact Aune since mine is silent and won't vibrate at all


----------



## teb1013

spacequeen7 said:


> I would contact Aune since mine is silent and won't vibrate at all




+1


----------



## WyFi

spacequeen7 said:


> I would contact Aune since mine is silent and won't vibrate at all




I will do that. I had to unplug it last night so my girlfriend could sleep.


----------



## spacequeen7

in the meantime try to suspend/hang the transformer in the air so it won't have contact with your desk ,that's what I do with noisy pumps in my builds


----------



## lwrs10

aopisa said:


> Just received my NOS GE 6AQ8 tube and it sounds great!
> 
> I am using the Aune T1 as a DAC streaming from my iPad to a vintage Marantz 2270 receiver through a pair of Linn Sara speakers.
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Lol you mean me!
  
 BTW a few more tubes will be added to the list soon.


----------



## aopisa

Sorry. I read every post From 1-200 and then skipped to 300. So, I must have missed your discovery somewhere in the gap!


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Lol you mean me!
> 
> BTW a few more tubes will be added to the list soon.


 

 Stealing my thunder !!! rookie....LOL
  
 Hey,..Amperex date Code - That PCC88 Orange globe I have - WONDERFUL tube...Its amperex and has the seam ...But date code matches a Mullard
  
*B8J2 *
 Blackburn
 1958
 October
 2nd week
  
 So either they use the same codes or this tube was made for Amperex by Mullard...Hmm...


----------



## arcorob

aopisa said:


> Sorry. I read every post From 1-200 and then skipped to 300. So, I must have missed your discovery somewhere in the gap!


 

 No ...you were right...lwrs doesn't have it in his impressions list ...SO I am taking FULL CREDIT for this find...and totally pulling his leg...because he has done some awesome research on this friendly little DAC
  
 My review was ...
  
 ~~GE Labeled SIEMENS 6AQ8 ECC85 GERMANY - cant make out date code 5.0 Stars *****/ This bad boy is amazing, Soundstage impresses you immediately as does the detail. This and my other GE labeled tube will knock your socks off. Would make anyone happy -this 6AQ8 which I think has a tad better soundstage (by a thumbnail) but also just a thumbnail less bass. . I listened to about 12 different type songs and could find no wrong EXCEPT some heavy metal tune by Nickelback and that may be the mastering, I need to check. But all other cuts, gorgeous. Vocals will make your head spin and take notice.


----------



## Salvatore

spacequeen7 said:


> *I think we all should stop recommending any sellers in this thread  *


 
  
 I agree. We can surely tell if seller is legit or not but lets leave it there.
  


aopisa said:


> Sorry. I read every post From 1-200 and then skipped to 300. So, I must have missed your discovery somewhere in the gap!


 
  
 Have you checked my useful info post? You can find the link either from 1) at the end of the first post of this thread or 2) in my signature. There are all the major tube reviews + lots of other useful info.


----------



## bbmiller

*Are people that use tube headphone amplifiers (and not tube DACs*, *but solid-state ones**) just as passionate as you all are in soundstage improvement?*

 I have been reading this thread a lot being serious about making this piece of equipment my possible first foray in audiophile level equipment. What I have seen already from equalising, the best  headset I ever owned is owning audiophile level equipment might greatly increase my enjoyment of music.

 So in this regards I have more than one question about Aune T1. The first is the one that appears in bold and big type above. Secondly do you get this tremendous soundstage improvement at the expense of hearing noise in your headphones? And does the impedance of the headphones have anything to do with how quiet they are using Aune T1.

 Forgive me for asking a newbie question, but would appreciate it save me that the laborious task doing many repeated searches on this discussion thread. I probably would be able to figure out much of it doing that laborious work. But as much as I have been reading his thread you all who followed it for much longer than I may have my answers at hand. So please help me out here.


----------



## gimmeshelter

I have just purchased one of these after a long hard think about what to replace my Maverick Audio with. I was toying with the modi / magni combination and also the Fiio E09k / E17 combination. I have opted for this as I like the idea of swapping the tubes for a different sound. With the money saved I can now put that towards buying a Fiio X5 instead of the iBasso DX50 I had planned.


----------



## teb1013

bbmiller I find that the soundstage is greatly effected by the tube being used, also the headphones. With my Sennheiser HD558s (open phones with good soundstage) The Voskhod tube is very forward and has a more limited soundstage than the 6922 EH which came with my T1. My favorite tube, the Amperex 7308, has a great soundstage. A lot depends on what you like and synergy with your system. I don't have appreciable background noise on my unit. I have no experience with tube amps, you would have to check threads on these for comments on soundstage and noise.


----------



## arcorob

WARNING: THIS IS NOT A DEBATE - JUST AN OBSERVATION / QUESTION
  
 Can you really hear what is known as soundstage via headphones or are people confusing that with separation ? The truest definition of soundstage in audiophile terms is (simplified)
  
 ~~Definition: Soundstage is the ability to visualize the placement of musical instruments and vocalists in a music recording. A good soundstage also allows the listener to perceive the size and space of the performance venue in which the recording was made
  
 That sound and space not only includes left, right and middle but also depth and position. I have never heard the latter in any pair of headphones. Excellent width, sonically accurate but not a true 3D representation one can achieve with speakers.
  
 I am no expert and certainly have never owned a pair of headphones above a few hundred dollars....but it sort of makes me wonder...anyway..thanks for listening


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Guys I picked up a pack of four of the headphone PCB coupling caps (47uF 50V) and these are very nice SILMIC II (RSW Golds):  http://www.ebay.com/itm/350858832618?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
  
 So I have 2 extras if someone wants to buy the 2 for say $10 shipped.  (I paid $19.99 shipped for four, so you aren't paying any more than I did)
  
 These are miniatures, so you shouldn't have to bend the leads and hang them over the board like most 50V replacement caps.


----------



## aopisa

salvatore said:


> Have you checked my useful info post? You can find the link either from 1) at the end of the first post of this thread or 2) in my signature. There are all the major tube reviews + lots of other useful info.




Yes, I did when I first started reading this thread, but I think it's time to go back and go over it again. 

Thanks.


----------



## Purpeltendire

arcorob said:


> WARNING: THIS IS NOT A DEBATE - JUST AN OBSERVATION / QUESTION
> 
> Can you really hear what is known as soundstage via headphones or are people confusing that with separation ? The truest definition of soundstage in audiophile terms is (simplified)
> 
> ...


 
  
 I've always felt that separation is part of a soundstage, personally. You can have a deep but not wide soundstage, and it can be more difficult to separate instruments than in one that is wider rather than deeper. In that regard, it's similar to judging distances with your eye. Place two objects at a medium distance from you in a straight line. If they're close enough together, they appear to be at the same spot, or if they're farther apart you can spot both objects.
  
 But yes, I do think that you can hear the differences between soundstages, or at least of the sonic imaging of a track.


----------



## WyFi

After using my T1 for about 4 straight hours the transformer stopped buzzing. It is silent now. I started listening to the Pentatonix with the unit and my HD558's through Spotify and was amazed to hear vocals that I didn't hear before from them on YouTube. It's a low bass sound from Avi's voice.


----------



## arcorob

So not sure which tube I like the best
  
 PCC88 Amperex Orange Globe
 6GM8 Mullard Germany
 6DJ8 GE USA smokey joe
 6AQ8 GE by Siemens
  
 not a terrible problem to have but will have to do some real comparative testing this weekend.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

So any takers on the two extra 47uF Gold ELNA SILMIC IIs shown above?  $10 shipped.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Guys I am trying to verify two things.
  
  
 1) Is the RCA labeled tube actually a US made Amperex as it was sold?
  
 2) Is the Siemens a CCa or not?
  
  
 I have more pictures, but I think this shows it all, the only missing thing in the pictures is the number 2 etched on the bottom.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Guys I am trying to verify two things.
> 
> 
> 1) Is the RCA labeled tube actually a US made Amperex as it was sold?
> ...


 

 You E88CC is not a CCA...but damn close


----------



## NCSUZoSo

What tells you it is not?  Also what about the RCA labeled supposed Amperex?
  
 What you showed is just a sell ad for a select few CCa tubes, they ran for years.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> What tells you it is not?  Also what about the RCA labeled supposed Amperex?
> 
> What you showed is just a sell ad for a select few CCa tubes, they ran for years.


 

 CCa tubes (real) are so rare...and if you did find one then
 1) 95% say CCa on them
 2) You didn't pay under $150
  
 The add is not old and its NOT CCA. It gives you an idea of premium E88CC's
  
 Many EBAY sellers list as E88CC, CCA or 6DJ8,CCA or 6922,CCA,
  
 They are the first letters not CCA's
  
 Even the ones MARKED CCa's should be suspect.
  
 These MIGHT be real
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/perfect-pair-of-Siemens-CCa-tubes-mint-NOS-NIB-own-boxes-dreamtubes-/201002657780?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2eccb127f4
  
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Matched-Pair-Siemens-CCA-Made-in-Germany-Munich-E88CC-ECC88-6DJ8-6922-/321307875543?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4acf7118d7
  
  
 I have no clue on the RCA....sorry


----------



## Salvatore

Guys you might want to start posting those etched factory codes for better identification.


----------



## spacequeen7

ncsuzoso said:


> What tells you it is not?  Also what about the RCA labeled supposed Amperex?
> 
> What you showed is just a sell ad for a select few CCa tubes, they ran for years.


 
  Siemens ,Telefunken ,Valavoa are most common CCa ,most CCa are German types of tubes and only few were made outside  of Germany     
  
 Quote:


> Most of what is available is Siemens or Telefunken made, although there are a few very rare examples of Philips or Amperex Holland made out there. Since *this was a tube made specifically for the German goverment and military*, all that I have seen carry a German brand label, even those made in Holland. Even rarer are the Holland made Cca tubes with the pinched waist indented glass midsections, said to be the most sonically "3D" tube ever made, of any type. Finding these is akin to finding a 1795 gold piece in your attic! I don't believe there were any of these Cca tubes made in the USA


 
 here is example of CCa (they all will test very high and will outlast none CCa ),I payed $230-shipped from Germany for both (1965)

  
*NOTE; Siemens are most common CCa tubes *


----------



## copajohn

Well, got the Grados.  I love them but did have an issue with them initially.  There was a significant 'buzzing' in the right ear piece.  Checked them on my regular audio equipment an there was no buzz.  What I did is change the output gain on the Aune to 16db and the problem went away.  Planning on turning my wife into a Grado widow this weekend.  Happy happy happy.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I can't locate any etched codes   
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
  
  
 I did find an additional symbol though, it's on the opposite of the metal shield inside the tube and looks similar to an alpha symbol.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> I can't locate any etched codes
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 NCS..you may just have one or the not designated ones that are the same..I know that side getter code means something...I myself just don't know enough about how to 100% identify..


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> No ...you were right...lwrs doesn't have it in his impressions list ...SO I am taking FULL CREDIT for this find...and totally pulling his leg...because he has done some awesome research on this friendly little DAC
> 
> My review was ...
> 
> ~~GE Labeled SIEMENS 6AQ8 ECC85 GERMANY - cant make out date code 5.0 Stars *****/ This bad boy is amazing, Soundstage impresses you immediately as does the detail. This and my other GE labeled tube will knock your socks off. Would make anyone happy -this 6AQ8 which I think has a tad better soundstage (by a thumbnail) but also just a thumbnail less bass. . I listened to about 12 different type songs and could find no wrong EXCEPT some heavy metal tune by Nickelback and that may be the mastering, I need to check. But all other cuts, gorgeous. Vocals will make your head spin and take notice.




6AQ8 right? Who was the first person to try one in the Aune and reccomend it? 

Shots fired! 

All kidding aside, yes the GE one us a great sounding tube.


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> 6AQ8 right? Who was the first person to try one in the Aune and reccomend it?
> 
> Shots fired!
> 
> All kidding aside, yes the GE one us a great sounding tube.


 

 lwrs10 who ? Oh..that guy...LOL
  
 Very true sir...I am still stuck with 4 tubes trying to decide #1...think I have narrowed down to 3....


----------



## spacequeen7

arcorob said:


> lwrs10 who ? Oh..that guy...LOL
> 
> Very true sir...I am still stuck with 4 tubes trying to decide #1...think I have narrowed down to 3....


 
 is it Mullard cough Amperex ? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
 P.S. got myself one of the Smoked GE's ...nice 
 To me the "smoked GE , Mullard Blackburn and Ultron sound very ,very similar with slight advantage Mullard


----------



## arcorob

spacequeen7 said:


> is it Mullard cough Amperex ?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 That's funny...my Mullard fell to 4th place...LOL
  
  
 6AQ8 GE by Siemens
 PCC88 Amperex Orange Globe (with Blackburn codes)
 6DJ8 GE USA smokey joe
 ~~6GM8 Mullard German Made
  
 I am looking for a winner to stay in the unit much like my tubes that stay in my amp.


----------



## copajohn

Space Queen -
  
 I'm a bit confused about this:
  
 Foobar2K/WASAPI >Aune T1[Smoked Ge 6DJ8 Ecc88]* *>DV 336SE[Tung Sol 7236/Raytheon 6SN7GTB]> DT880-250//HE-400
  
I'm a noob.  Why would you go from the Aune to the DV?  I know there must be a reason but somehow I'm missing it...
  
Thanks.


----------



## spacequeen7

copajohn said:


> Space Queen -
> 
> I'm a bit confused about this:
> 
> ...


 
 you can start reading from here 
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/3735#post_10117421
  
 bottom line is T1 is not a tube amp


----------



## NCSUZoSo

correct, it's a tube buffer.


----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> 6AQ8 GE by Siemens
> PCC88 Amperex Orange Globe (with Blackburn codes)
> 6DJ8 GE USA smokey joe
> ~~6GM8 Mullard German Made


 
  
 Can you please give etched code for each tube in one post or add factory codes to your tube review?
 Telling about prints/labels and where/who made it won`t tell much. It`s all about factory codes.
 Tubes with a month or even week difference in production time could sound different because of materials batch/source difference.
  
 Thank you for your attention.


----------



## spacequeen7

coil said:


> Can you please give etched code for each tube in one post or add factory codes to your tube review?
> Telling about prints/labels and where/who made it won`t tell much. It`s all about factory codes.
> Tubes with a month or even week difference in production time could sound different because of materials batch/source difference.
> 
> Thank you for your attention.


 
 was wondering about the codes as well 
 P.S. any chance for some links to do the research on our own


----------



## ramaka

arcorob said:


> NCS..you may just have one or the not designated ones that are the same..I know that side getter code means something...I myself just don't know enough about how to 100% identify..


 
  
 Sent a PM instead.


----------



## arcorob

PM answered
  
  
 About the codes - That is easier said than done. 70% of my tubes are very hard to make out a code. what I can tell you is how the plates/getters/etc. look ...for example, none of the ones I recommended have the A frame getters ...and people have found the same tubes from the descriptions.  YES..date codes would help but 1) You would have to translate 2) You would have to find a seller that has the date codes 3) date code can be different but same exact tubes, just different year/month/week
  
 I will try to get some close ups this week...


----------



## CoiL

> YES..date codes would help but 1) You would have to translate 2) You would have to find a seller that has the date codes 3) date code can be different but same exact tubes, just different year/month/week


 
 1) That`s the point of hunting down those NOS tubes. It`s not hard to translate codes, plenty of information about identifying codes. Without codes you could end up with totally different tube despite construction being same (relabeled, other factory/country made or fake) and that might be totally different from what reviewer recommended. 
  
 2) You do not have to find seller who has _exact same _codes but you can choose one close to it so chances to get same sounding tube would be better.
  
 3) Like I already said, despite tubes may look exact same by construction, they can be relabeled by different factory/country or even be fake and you could end up with totally different sounding tube thinking that it`s same as reviewer recommended (thinking it`s the "best" tube you going to have). I have few examples of this case and I also have tubes made short time apart and they sound different.
  
 so, without codes you can newer know....


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I'm guessing by the word etched, that these are actually there no matter if the ink is gone completely or not?
  
 Can we not like rub graphite or something on the tube to get the etching to show?


----------



## lwrs10

Welcome back Coil....glad to see you back.

And Rob, try a 5BK7A tube. It's my #1 tube right now. Been using it for 2 weeks with no issues. Yes I know that is a 5 volt heater tube, and the Aune is 6.3. It is not running excessively hot or bright. There is a chance it can slightly shorted the filiment life, but not by much. Only talking 1.3 volt difference, and quite a few older tube amps do not supply 6.3 volts exactly.


----------



## arcorob

Yes, welcome back Coil. And you are correct, getting the date codes is optimal. Just not always possible.
  
 NW...no, they are painted on and prone to peeling. The embedded codes (silvery looking in the glass) are just the tube type such as 6DJ8 or 6GM8..
  
 LWRS...I am DONE with these..lol....that little sucker was eating up my tube budget...I only need 1, have a top 4, the rest I have been selling off and two or 3 I know will wind up in a drawer...LOL


----------



## spacequeen7

...I feel warm and fuzzy inside ...lol..play nice boys


----------



## CoiL

arcorob said:


> NW...no, they are painted on and prone to peeling. The embedded codes (silvery looking in the glass) are just the tube type such as 6DJ8 or 6GM8..


 
 That`s correct, there aren`t always possible to get any reading out of them due to wearing but no, they are not painted and do not peel off like you say. I don`t really know
 exactly how they are "printed" but they seem more like etched and are very strongly "put" onto glass, usually last thing to wear off from tube. I have soaked those codes on vinegar acid, rubbed them with cloth and they don`t come off (not that I actually do this to every tube but at beginning it happened). Of course there are some tubes that have weakly etched codes and some fakes can be found/identified by it. They are usually more like brownish-silver color but yes silver are also found (I have few Siemens). In contrary, I have only few tubes that have very strongly printed logos/text/type on glass but most of them come off very easily when they get moisture/water or even finger residue.
  
 And those codes are not just tube type. Code says lot more. Only the fist (upper) 3-letter code says which tube type it is, first two say the tube type and 3rd says the revision. For example, my Amperex 6DJ8 (PQ Orange Shield logo) - there`s very little left from that logo but etched code is ok and it says GAE ⊿2A3. GA = 6DJ8 and E= revision E. But second (lower) symbol/number/letter line is most important - 1st means factory where it`s made, 2nd means year, 3rd means month and 4th means week. So, that Amperex PQ is ⊿ = Heerlen Holland factory, 2 = year 1972, A = month January, 3 = 3rd week. Of course codes won`t tell always everything, you must also be somewhat familiar with tube internal construction, materials, getter type and little details like for example on which side getter is welded onto supporting wire/leg or how tube glass is molded together (2 or 4 lines) etc.
 Salvatore has already given great source of information about tube identifying on his collection of links found on first post. But here they are again: 

 http://www.head-fi.org/t/549508/schiit-lyr-the-tube-rolling-thread/7725#post_9535339
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/1740#post_9396448
  
 http://www.audiotubes.com/mullcode.htm
  
 http://www.tube-classics.de/TC/Tubes/Valvo/Phlipscode.htm (this is actually interpreted wrong -  Δ = Philips Copenhagen and ⊿ = Philips Heerlen)
  
 http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_139205361590712&key=04fea777994d26cd84e01a5e54f4c01d&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.head-fi.org%2Ft%2F633006%2Faune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq%2F2010%23post_9502294&v=1&libId=c17085ab-60bd-49cc-8479-bf3a8a87a1aa&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.triodeel.com%2Fimages%2Fphilipstubecodes.pdf&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.head-fi.org%2Ft%2F633006%2Faune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq&title=Aune%20T1%20USB%20Tube%20DAC%2BAmp%20Discussion%20Thread%20***See%20first%20post%20for%20FAQ***%20-%20Page%20135&txt=Philips%20tube%20codes
  
 http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_139205364235914&key=04fea777994d26cd84e01a5e54f4c01d&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.head-fi.org%2Ft%2F633006%2Faune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq%2F2010%23post_9502294&v=1&libId=c17085ab-60bd-49cc-8479-bf3a8a87a1aa&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pauls-roehren.de%2Fdownloads%2FPhilipsCodeListAB.pdf&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.head-fi.org%2Ft%2F633006%2Faune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq&title=Aune%20T1%20USB%20Tube%20DAC%2BAmp%20Discussion%20Thread%20***See%20first%20post%20for%20FAQ***%20-%20Page%20135&txt=Philips%20factory%20valve%20codes
  
  
 So guys, time to do some detective work...


----------



## bob439

Thanks for refreshing the tube identification process CoiL, can someone verify my deduction ...
 ⊿8D4 - Heerlen, 1968 Apr 4th Week ?


----------



## CoiL

What are first 3 letters or type? And now tube type/build comes into play. According to that you can probably identify if it is 68 or 78. Anyone has idea when Heerlen factory stopped producing tubes? All I know (might be wrong) is that they stopped etching codes in mid/late 70`s.


----------



## lwrs10

Most European tubes after 1957 had the etching until about 1976. You cannot wipe the etching off. Most US tubes were pained on, and it wipes off very easy. The date codes are often very confusing and are not consistant. 

Only tubes that are very consistent for factory codes are American octal base tubes. 

I will link a website when I get home for help........

But dammit knock the arguing off you two.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Here is what my tube seller said about my possible CCa:
  


> The ones marked cca, re also coded with an A1-9, which means they are all the same 6922 construction. I think they designated the cca as such was because they passed more vigorous testing for specific applications. I don't know if that would be specifically for audio use, because all 6922/e88cc versions were meant to be very low noise, as well as tightly matched triode sections. But I do know that an A9 is an A9 no matter what the printed logo says.


 
  
  
 By A9 he is talking about on the internal shield seen here:


----------



## zoneykid

arcorob said:


> Zoney...the two tubes you are looking at are awesome (especially the first GE Holland 6AQ8)
> 
> If you go for number two, pick the one that reads
> ~~12166/12640 umhos
> ...


 
 I ended up getting the GE, it finally arrived today and I have to say, it does sound quite amazing. It still sounds open and clear like the EH tube but now it feels like all the lower frequencies I didn't realize were missing are there again.
 I totally recommend this tube to anyone that has a pair of Beyer DT990s in 250ohm.
  
 Only issue now is there's a hair in the driver of my DT990s which causes a vibrating noise on low frequencies, and with this tube it's much more apparent now due to the full bass. Guess it's time to send these in for repair finally.


----------



## MrEleventy

Is it in the driver or on the driver? It's an easy fix.


----------



## zoneykid

In the driver it would seem from what I've read in other posts, there's a paper covering on it and I don't want to void my warranty.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Here is what my tube seller said about my possible CCa:
> 
> 
> 
> By A9 he is talking about on the internal shield seen here:


 
 Great to see...CCa's were made for military equipment use...but of course found their way elsewhere. Much like the GE and RCA JG's, WA's ...


----------



## MrEleventy

zoneykid said:


> In the driver it would seem from what I've read in other posts, there's a paper covering on it and I don't want to void my warranty.


 That's on the driver, it's easy to get to but if have a warranty, take advantage of it.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Guys I don't know who had the bright idea of 25mm of height space, but it isn't true.  I would say you have more like 20mm, here is how I got my caps to fit:


----------



## arcorob

arcorob said:


> Never mind ...here you go...form mouser...these are your specs, right ?
> 
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/URZ1E332MHD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cavfLNkWkbI9aMB5dF6xM0%3d


 

 Wasn't me..I gave you the 20mm spec


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Anyway initial impressions on replacing everything but the last coupling caps on the headphone PCB;
  
 The first thing that you notice is the sound stage is wider, seems much wider.  Also even with a Siemens A9 6992 (possible CCa), the clarity is even more detailed than before, at first it seems like you lost a bit off bass, but then you realize it's just less boomy and tighter instead.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Anyway initial impressions on replacing everything but the last coupling caps on the headphone PCB;
> 
> The first thing that you notice is the sound stage is wider, seems much wider.  Also even with a Siemens A9 6992 (possible CCa), the clarity is even more detailed than before, at first it seems like you lost a bit off bass, but then you realize it's just less boomy and tighter instead.


 

 You'll get your bass back. People don't always believe (two schools of thought) but caps DO need break-in....they'll be a little hyperdetailed at first ..then they will smooth out...give it a good 8 hour burn in ...then a few days...watch the transformation...
  
 A recent recap of my main amp scared the daylights out of me...sounded awful...till after a few hours ..then it was beautiful...


----------



## Salvatore

arcorob said:


> Here we go again. I love when people speak in explicit's ..but are not correct.


 
  
 Not cool.


----------



## Salvatore

*Amperex, Mullard, Philips, and Valvo Tube Codes*
  
Most Amperex, Mullard, Philips and Valvo tubes are marked with a group of symbols which contain coded information relating to the type, place of manufacture or country of origin, and the date of manufacture. Apart from the interest of knowing when and where a tube was made, the code group can still provide useful type identification when the commercial markings have become illegible.  
 There were two types of code formats that used the same tube type codes, which were in use from 1948 until these companies stopped the manufacture of standard receiving tubes. The code format changed about 1955 or 1956. There are some deviations to this rule, and in certain manufacturing plants not all of the code protocol was followed exactly, with every batch of tubes. Prior to 1955, Mullard used a purely numerical code for encoding the tube type, but then adopted the code change as listed here after that. Therefore, for tubes made after 1955 by all three of these large European manufacturers, the code is fairly uniform and straightforward to decipher using these code lists. Of course, as mentioned above, there are deviations in the code that vary from factory to factory and from year to year. This list is presented as found on original Philips documentation. Brent Jessee Recording makes no claims as to accuracy, and presents this information for your use "as is" and "as found".
  
THE ELEMENTS OF THE TUBE CODE: 
 The digits are often found near the bottom of the glass on the side of the tube. They consist of two or three lines of numbers, letters, and sometimes symbols. They will nearly all use the following convention, from left to right, top to bottom of the code group:
  
TUBE TYPE:
This may be one, two, or three alphanumerics or symbols. For example, the code GA means the tube is a type ECC88, which is also a 6DJ8. These codes will be listed later in this webpage. Pretty straightforward, huh? Take notes, it gets stranger from this point on......


----------



## Salvatore

With all the fakes and relabels I'd be very interested of those codes. I wouldn't buy any of those expensive tubes without proper etching.


----------



## arcorob

salvatore said:


> With all the fakes and relabels I'd be very interested of those codes. I wouldn't buy any of those expensive tubes without proper etching.


 

 Salvatore, that is copied from Brent Jesse.  Nowhere does he say these codes are etched. He is just explaining how the codes work. Period.
  
 Lets just leave it like LWRS said. Many European tubes have etched codes. Most American do not.


----------



## Salvatore

arcorob said:


> Salvatore, that is copied from Brent Jesse.  Nowhere does he say these codes are etched. He is just explaining how the codes work. Period.
> 
> Lets just leave it like LWRS said. Many European tubes have etched codes. Most American do not.


 
  
 Yes those who have been reading my posts know that I've been quoting Brent Jessee several times before. It also says Brent Jessee in the text so I'm not claiming it to be my own text. Not all tubes have visible factory codes I know, but for what I know also at least some of american Amperexes should have codes. What I'm trying to say is that there are lots of beginners out here and it's important that they know how to interpret codes and look for them. If tubes are not identified by codes you should at least tell people about the triodes, getters, supports, shields etc. I wouldn't encourage beginners to buy expensive tubes based only on painted text even though many of the best tubes might only have such. If Coil has room for improvement in his expression of thoughts so does you. Lets not try to constantly troll or diss people about their impressions or opinions.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Yea Coil, I hope so too and mine doesn't sound sterile, just a lack of the original bass.
  
 my caps are as follows:
  
 ELNA SILMIC II 330uF (x2)
 Nichicon FW 3300uF (x2)
 ELNA Cerafine 470uF (x2)
  
  
 If you look at the picture I posted:
  

  
  
 The black cap in the left (SILMIC II) at the top of the picture, I had to actually add the leads back to..  This is because I thought they were going to fit and it was so close I couldn't find out without putting the bottom on, which I didn't do until I soldered it.  Do running these long leads or in my case soldering the leads back on the cap with only a few millimeters left on the cap affect the values?  Or is that just the guitarist in me trying to make an issue out of everything?


----------



## arcorob

salvatore said:


> Yes those who have been reading my posts know that I've been quoting Brent Jessee several times before. It also says Brent Jessee in the text so I'm not claiming it to be my own text. Not all tubes have visible factory codes I know, but for what I know also at least some of american Amperexes should have codes. What I'm trying to say is that there are lots of beginners out here and it's important that they know how to interpret codes and look for them. If tubes are not identified by codes you should at least tell people about the triodes, getters, supports, shields etc. I wouldn't encourage beginners to buy expensive tubes based only on painted text even though many of the best tubes might only have such. If Coil has room for improvement in his expression of thoughts so does you. Lets not try to constantly troll or diss people about their impressions or opinions.


 

 Salvatore,
  
 Opinions and freedom of expression I can agree with you on. And teaching newbies, I agree on. But certain people tend to speak in absolutes and when that occurs, then "newbies" get confused. That is the problem I have with the post's value.
  
 If they were posted as "If you can, try to find an etched date code - most European made tubes have them - to determine the actual tube date and manufacturer"...Then I would have no problem and agree. But picture some newbie thinking he has a false tube because there is no etched code. He may have an American made tube or a European tube that did not use it.
  
 That is all I am saying. It is valuable that you provide and help interpret those codes. And if Coil wants to help people great. Just use caution on the absolutes. Caps are another subject. He had a bad experience with his Panasonics so now, no one should use them. I did and mine sound awesome - and did require break in. Yet, I did not post - NO you are wrong, they do sound good. He posts in such a way that people will never use them. He forgets that much of this is system dependent and power caps really don't hold that much sway in SQ.
  
 Anyway, I will be on my best but don't rush to defense if I call something out. I too want to help newbies and don't want them misled. In many ways this thread has really gotten too long. You too have seen new posters say they cannot get through all the pages ....Perhaps some updates to the FAQ pages ? Just a thought..Opinion
  
 Peace


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Yea Coil, I hope so too and mine doesn't sound sterile, just a lack of the original bass.
> 
> my caps are as follows:
> 
> ...


 

 NW....Just to be safe
  
 Make up an order from mouser.com
  
 You use the same cap values as mine (330uf in the secondary's where some have the higher 470)
  
 I left the headphone caps alone. Changed are the secondary - 330uf Panasonics  , Primary 3300 Nichicon
  
_*Just FYI *_
 330uf secondary caps - height and diameter is 16mm by 10mm - 5mm lead spacing (see picture)
 3300uf primary - height is 20mm , 18mm diameter with 7.5mm lead spacing
  

  
 I have the correct height (which you can see on mouser when ordering) so all fits, no worries and sound great. No loss of bass at all. To clean things up, I would also (if I were you) go back to Nichicons for the headphone amp in the right size. This way everything fits as it should.
  
 BTW...did you know Nichicon's can be blue now ? Recent mouser order for some on my main amp..shocked me...but they are a pretty blue now...LOL...
  
 They match the Philips caps now...LOL


----------



## Salvatore

arcorob said:


> Opinions and freedom of expression I can agree with you on. And teaching newbies, I agree on. But certain people tend to speak in absolutes and when that occurs, then "newbies" get confused. That is the problem I have with the post's value.


 
  
 Yes this is very true. We should try keeping this thread fun and educational.
  


arcorob said:


> That is all I am saying. It is valuable that you provide and help interpret those codes. And if Coil wants to help people great. Just use caution on the absolutes. Caps are another subject. He had a bad experience with his Panasonics so now, no one should use them. I did and mine sound awesome - and did require break in. Yet, I did not post - NO you are wrong, they do sound good. He posts in such a way that people will never use them. He forgets that much of this is system dependent and power caps really don't hold that much sway in SQ.


 
  
 This is another good observation. We should work together to create good guides for all of us to enjoy. Maybe first create DIY guide for changing caps and then add peoples impressions of different caps. It's the same with tubes. One man's best tube might not work with others. But it is very important to let everyone express their opinion without letting them feel stupid saying stuff. This one goes to Coil too. When we have good guides we could close this thread and start another one with VERY comprehensive starting info / FAQ. I personally would enjoy some DIY guides from you guys (cap change and pin cleaning for example).


----------



## aopisa

Noob checking in here.

Yes, this thread is far too long and confusing for someone (like me) who only wants to enjoy trying a few new tubes that do not cost an arm and a leg. It is difficult enough trying to tell what you might be getting online from the descriptions that various sellers provide. Even if you had the exact codes, it's not likely that a some eBay seller who is shipping out dozens of units a week is going to go looking for etching with a magnifying glass on a $25 tube. 

So, no one person is in charge here, but it would be nice if some of the experts recompiled a simple list of top all time tubes and perhaps a similar list of best bang for the buck (under $50) tubes. 

Look, this thing cost $150 and it sounds pretty good out of the box. I imagine I'm not the only one here who wants to tube roll but at a cost that is some fraction of the original retail price. And it would be great to easily find a few nice tubes based on all the great research already provided by some of the folks here.

Thanks to everyone for all of the great information and help already provided in this thread.


----------



## arcorob

Salvatore, great idea (and as we can see from one new poster, much needed..lol)
  
 For AOPISA
  
 If you go here
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294
  
 scroll down half a page and you will see a list of people tube impression...I promise you can find many of these tubes in the $25 or less catagory
  
 My top favorites (just top 3, not in order)
  
 Amperex PCC88 Made in Holland - non-A frame (harder to find)
 GE Branded Siemens made 6AQ8
 RCA Made in USA 6DJ8 with smoked glass
  
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-GE-General-Electric-6AQ8-ECC85-Vacuum-Tube-Made-in-Germany-Nice-/141043715268?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item20d6dc4cc4
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/General-Electric-6DJ8-ECC88-2-Same-Code-SC-Smoked-Glass-Tubes-/281262637204?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item417c8f4094


----------



## NCSUZoSo

arcorob said:


> NW....Just to be safe
> 
> Make up an order from mouser.com
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Why would I change anything?  Everything is installed and fits now.


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> Why would I change anything?  Everything is installed and fits now.


 

 Ok...
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
   You don't have to ....I just thought it was bothering you.....


----------



## CoiL

> Amperex PCC88 Made in Holland - non-A frame (harder to find).


 
 Before you said it`s with Mullard Blackburn codes... now it`s Holland. Which one is it then?
 Still waiting for your tubes factory codes btw (and I`m not the only one).


----------



## arcorob

coil said:


> Before you said it`s with Mullard Blackburn codes... now it`s Holland. Which one is it then?
> Still waiting for your tubes factory codes btw (and I`m not the only one).


 
 If you read my earlier post on this I have already published.
  
 Orange writing says - PCC88.Orange Globe Logo. Made in Holland
  
 60% sure the etched code says B6J2  - the B could be an 8 which would make it 86J2 but due to the shape I am leaning toward the B. If the 8 makes more sense, then its an 8 because if it is a B, it would be Blackburn which would not make too much sense unless Mullard built for Amperex.


----------



## HAN2929

I just bought a turntabel, the line out from it is a phono line. Do I need a phono preamp before plugging the line into the Aune T1 or do I not? Thanks!


----------



## arcorob

Han, yes you do.
  
 A turntable is not a line level input so it requires a phono stage.  great inexpensive phono stage (really pushes up in class considering the price) is the ART DJ Pre II. You can get it on Amazon if you are in the states,
  
 http://www.amazon.com/ART-II-Preamplifier-Output-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482


----------



## Currawong

I've deleted a few posts in this thread. Please, in the future, do NOT reply to any post that is argumentative or abusive, just report the post and pretend it was never posted. What actually derails and ruins threads is not a post that starts an argument, but the replies to it.


----------



## copajohn

copajohn said:


> Well, here goes...
> 
> I stumbled upon this wealth of information on Sunday (before the s-bowl).  I've had a T1 for about a year but never played with the tube.  Am hoping to get my Grado RS1i cans in the next few days and I bought some of the following...
> 
> ...


 
  
 The tubes made it along with the Grados.  All I have to say is oh my-just plain amazing!  Lots of bucks but I'm in heaven!


----------



## HAN2929

Thank You arcorob!


----------



## Purpeltendire

currawong said:


> I've deleted a few posts in this thread. Please, in the future, do NOT reply to any post that is argumentative or abusive, just report the post and pretend it was never posted. What actually derails and ruins threads is not a post that starts an argument, but the replies to it.


 
  
 Thanks for this. In the end, we're all here to enjoy this device that has great price to performance ratio. We're just here because we share a common interest. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So lets have a constructive discussion.
  
 As for on-topic-ness. I do think that starting a new thread with an amazing first post would be worth it. Many of the original posters have moved on and for the new people  the sheer length of the thread is likely overwhelming and discouraging. If I may make a suggestion, a first post with some general impressions or comparisons, like the Aune vs Magni/Modi vs FiiO E17, and some general FAQ's would be good. Then a second (and third?) post dedicated to tubes, broken down into price categories with a simple rating system. Then a fourth post for your cap modding. So maybe that sort of a layout for a new Aune thread could get the ball rolling.


----------



## dana789

back on track???
  
 I've listening to a 1972 La Radiotechnique pcc85/9aq8 that I got from mhamel. He told me that although it has a 9V heater it runs fine in the Aune T1. Apparently not all versions of the 9aq8 do. I can confirm that it runs fine and sounds great. I just did a quick check with some femaie vocals (Joni Mitchell, Jennifer Warnes) and some acoustic music (Joshua Bell and Edgar Meyer). Not sure I would prefer it over the 1969 Amperex OG 6dj8 I also got from mike, but it will stay in my T1 for a while. I would look forward to impressions from those with better ears, I'm new to tube rolling.
  
 I poked around on line but could not find a source of this particular tube on line. mhamel may have some more.
  
 Dana


----------



## lwrs10

Guess I will stay now that certain people can not post in here anymore. 
  
  
  
 Built another tube amp last night to use with the Aune.......a simple EL84 job.
  
  
 Tonights adventure is turn this 600 ohm telco tube amp i found into a headphone amp.


----------



## tigim101

Really close to pulling the trigger on this little AMP/DAC. Seems to offer a lot of bang for your buck. Im thinking of buying a pair of K702 Annie's or maybe Mad Dogs to go with them, currently have CALs and Sony MDR-MA900. The concept of tube rolling seems fun also. Should be a decent step up from my Fiio E10 (I also want to give the E10 to my brother, he still uses onboard and I feel sorry for him)
  
 One question, why doesnt anyone have the two plastic pieces attached on top of the tube in any of the user pictures ive seen of the Aune T1. Is it just an appearance/personal preference thing? Or do the plastic pieces get hot or something?


----------



## MrEleventy

The clear "guards" are flimsy and break easy. If you plan to roll, it's just a hassle to take them off and put them back on until they inevitably break. Better to just leave it off.


----------



## bob439

clear guards
  

obstruct the tube in pictures
are a hassle when tube rolling
wont fit with a socket saver in place
are not for grown ups 
  
 can go on


----------



## BaTou069

bob439 said:


> clear guards
> 
> 
> obstruct the tube in pictures
> ...


 
 whats a socket saver?


----------



## tigim101

bob439 said:


> clear guards
> 
> 
> obstruct the tube in pictures
> ...


 
  
 I see, thank you. I agree, the tube looks better naked. Are there any guides/tips for proper Tube removal and installation? Is it just slowly massage the pins in until they click in place?


----------



## bob439

batou069 said:


> whats a socket saver?


 
 refer this 
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOVIB-Socket-Saver-with-Vibration-Redu-Plug-Play-9-pin-B9A-NOT-Made-in-China-/161065066374
  
 Socket saver / holder is used to protect/save the stock socket in Aune T1 when you roll tubes frequently.
  
 fyi , there are other econ versions of what i have referenced above, starting from $4 to $25


----------



## bob439

tigim101 said:


> I see, thank you. I agree, the tube looks better naked. Are there any guides/tips for proper Tube removal and installation? Is it just slowly massage the pins in until they click in place?


 
  
 im new at this myself,  but i usually rock the tube from multiple directions to loosen it with an upward pressure, same goes for installing 
 To quit being so careful everytime i got myself a socket saver/holder.


----------



## arcorob

bob439 said:


> im new at this myself,  but i usually rock the tube from multiple directions to loosen it with an upward pressure, same goes for installing
> To quit being so careful everytime i got myself a socket saver/holder.


 
 Spot on...the whole key, no excessive force. Some tubes have also had their pins bent slightly which is where a pin straightener comes in...so they go in straight.
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Vacuum-Tube-Tester-Pin-Straightener-7-9-10-Compactron-Magnoval-Novar-/221370961797?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item338abccf85
  
 Not a must unless you tend to get bent pins...which means someone used too much force...


----------



## arcorob

tigim101 said:


> I see, thank you. I agree, the tube looks better naked. Are there any guides/tips for proper Tube removal and installation? Is it just slowly massage the pins in until they click in place?


 

 Good list...and I agree.
  
 Plus, these tubes (at least mine) don't really get that hot. I can remove easily after turning off. On my main amp? NO WAY....would be like touching a hot kettle....


----------



## MrEleventy

+1, I got a blister just accidentally brushing the power tube on the darkvoice. lol


----------



## wgkwgk

Back on the "opinion" issue.  I think all are valuable, even if somewhat biased--after all, they are opinions.  Before I bought by Aune (maybe a year ago), I researched the hell out of DAC/amp possibilities.  Then, I researched the hell out of tubes to use.  Opinions are sort of "self correcting," in that if you see some alignment it's probably correct.  I read _every_ thread on Aune tube rolling, (I'm a researcher by profession), then selected 5 tubes to try out and learn from/with.  As a newbie, it would have been trial and error for a long, long time had I not trusted the collective knowledge (including some rather sharp opinions) in those threads.  My only complaint is I spent more money because I went with high-end tubes!  (Special thanks to Salvatore and Coil for that. <just kidding!>)


----------



## BaTou069

wgkwgk said:


> Back on the "opinion" issue.  I think all are valuable, even if somewhat biased--after all, they are opinions.  Before I bought by Aune (maybe a year ago), I researched the hell out of DAC/amp possibilities.  Then, I researched the hell out of tubes to use.  Opinions are sort of "self correcting," in that if you see some alignment it's probably correct.  I read _every_ thread on Aune tube rolling, (I'm a researcher by profession), then selected 5 tubes to try out and learn from/with.  As a newbie, it would have been trial and error for a long, long time had I not trusted the collective knowledge (including some rather sharp opinions) in those threads.  My only complaint is I spent more money because I went with high-end tubes!  (Special thanks to Salvatore and Coil for that. <just kidding!>)


 
 So, what Tube are you recommending for what sound signature? What are your sound/music preferences?
 My Aune is on it's way to me, just interested to know your conclusions


----------



## arcorob

batou069 said:


> So, what Tube are you recommending for what sound signature? What are your sound/music preferences?
> My Aune is on it's way to me, just interested to know your conclusions


 

 Hey bud, not to BUTT in..just wanted to say I finalized my testing - Strictly based on speaker system use. SO headphone use may be completely different
  
 #1 GE branded Siemens 6AQ8
 #2 GE Labeled USA made 6DJ8 smoked glass tubes
 #3 GE Labeled Made In Holland 6GM8
  
 The Amperex PCC88 Orange Globe code B6J2 fell to 4th place as did a Mullard ~~Mullard 6GM8/ECC86 Coded- ~~D4A2
  
 I will say this on the PCC88 - Might be awesome for headphones as it has ALOT of bass which I had found lacking in others (for headphone use). For speaker use, it was excessive.
  
 My ratings here
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/3765#post_10120575


----------



## arcorob

Well, it would appear Salvatore's helpful links are gone (removed) 2/11/2014 - two days ago. That is a shame as it contained a lot of good information.
  
 Perhaps time for a new and unique helpful thread ? Use this thread to answer day to day questions. Use that one to only house FAQ's ?
  
 But this is now missing
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294


----------



## wgkwgk

I settled on:
  
 Mullard CV2492 gold pins
 Amperex Ecc88 A-frame
 Telefunken E88CC
 Siemans CCa (1968)
 6H23N Rocket Logo
  
 My music tastes include rock, acoustic, female vocal, some classical, and contemporary country.  So, all over the map, basically.
  
 I have 4 sets of cans, which allows for many can/tube combinations to explore--way too ambitious--but really, really a lot of fun.  I haven't done a thorough job of A/Bing--so it's been hit and miss. Therefore, I'm not yet in a position to provide solid conclusions. (FYI, I use only the DAC part of the Aune T1.)


----------



## NCSUZoSo

It seems Siemens is taking a lot of peoples top 3 tube choice and they are normally not as high price wise as Amperex ones (which are usually one above or below).


----------



## arcorob

Very true on the Siemens...and since mine was GE labeled, I paid $19.95 + $2.88 shipping
  
 They seem to range between $16 and $40 ...I would pay really close attention to test results posted...


----------



## teb1013

The Siemens are excellent, I still think they don't equal the Amperex 7308, but, for the price, they are well worth it.


----------



## teb1013

arcorob said:


> Well, it would appear Salvatore's helpful links are gone (removed) 2/11/2014 - two days ago. That is a shame as it contained a lot of good information.
> 
> Perhaps time for a new and unique helpful thread ? Use this thread to answer day to day questions. Use that one to only house FAQ's ?
> 
> ...




I agree, I wish I had downloaded it.


----------



## wgkwgk

Do you want my cache of T1 tube info I saved off of this forum?


----------



## arcorob

wgkwgk said:


> Do you want my cache of T1 tube info I saved off of this forum?


 

 That would be great...also if you could get JOEQ70 to populate a link to it - It can just be called Member Information about the AUNET1 or some sort
  
 Or as suggested, start a whole new thread just dedicated to FAQ. Not dialog, just the info.  Many newbies have pointed out that it is difficult to wade through 311 pages (and growing)


----------



## Purpeltendire

Recreated Salvatore's links post, nothing about it was an 'original' post so to speak. It was just a handy place for a lot of links, so I felt comfortable copying it. If this is a problem, someone let me know. 
  
*General Aune T1 Info: *
  
*joeq70*'s FAQ
Operation Explained
Technical Information / Product Description
User Manual
Gain Settings
*Paspie*'s Unboxing
  
*T1 Impressions & Comparisons:*
  
Headfonia comparison against Schiit Magni/Modi
Impressions and Comparisons by *RMac* (Compares against Schiit Magni/Modi & FiiO E17)
Impressions & Review by* White Lotus*
Review by *Illbetheone*
Impressions by *diaBoliQu3*
Impressions by *BenWaB3*
  
*T1 Tube Types:*
  
List of supported tube types by *lwrs10*
  
*Useful tube links:*
  
Tube types/descriptions by Brent Jesse Recording & Supply, Inc. 
Condensed version by *Salvatore*
  
*Tube Reviews & Impressions:*
  
Joe's Tube Lore
*icecap*'s impressions
*tomatolicious*' impressions
*Gr3g277*'s impressions
*dcfi**s*' impressions
*Salvatore*'s impressions, Pt. 1
*Salvatore*'s impressions, Pt. 2
*Auditore*'s impressions
*Sarurururu*'s impressions
*arcorob*'s impressions
*lwrs10*'s impressions
  
*Tube ID:*
  
Tube ID tips from Tubemonger (Head-Fi post by *HK_sends*)
  
*Factory Codes:*
  
How to interpret factory and date codes by *Salvatore*
Amperex, Mullard, Philips and Valvo tube codes by Brent Jesse Recording & Suppy, Inc
Read and understand the codes [Tube-Classics.de]
Philips tube codes PDF
Philips factory valve codes PDF
  
*Identifying Amperex Tubes:*
  
How to identify by *Salvatore*
  
*Miscellaneous audio links:*
  
Describing Sound: A Glossary
Headphone Measurements Explained
Frequency Chart by *Salvatore*
Build a Headphone Graph
  
 Again, original post by @Salvatore. I just recreated the post when we found out he took it down.


----------



## ogerestein

> It was actually the 6,3mm -> 3,5mm adapter that came with the Aune that was the culprit. I tried with the adapter I got with my V-modas and now it sounds fine... quite a *relief*.


 
 Yep, I had the exact same problem! Right out of the box, the sounds was distorted, wavy, and completely unbalanced (loud guitars, vocals almost couldn't be heard). I panicked hard until I found this post. Turns out it was the cheapo 1/4" to 1/8" adapter... what a relief indeed!


----------



## arcorob

purpeltendire said:


> Recreated Salvatore's links post, nothing about it was an 'original' post so to speak. It was just a handy place for a lot of links, so I felt comfortable copying it. If this is a problem, someone let me know.
> 
> *General Aune T1 Info: *
> 
> ...


 

 That is awesome...now the trick would be to get a MOD or someone to put it on page one OR start a new thread called AUNE T1 DAC -  FAQ and TUBE Data


----------



## Purpeltendire

arcorob said:


> That is awesome...now the trick would be to get a MOD or someone to put it on page one OR start a new thread called AUNE T1 DAC -  FAQ and TUBE Data


 
 I'll send a PM to joeq70 asking him to update the first post. He had a link at the bottom to Salvatore's original post, but as that is gone now he'd simply have to change the link to this one. I also think that starting a new, non-discussion thread would be a good idea, just for raw information. Tube impressions, FAQ, reviews, and such would be going there, and that's about it. The downside is that there would probably be a number of posts made by people asking for help or advice; we'd have to direct them here to ask.


----------



## lwrs10

I think it's petty to delete info post like that.


----------



## Salvatore

Well I tried to offer the post for someone to take it over. I knew this way someone would definitely do so. There's been so much negativity going on here lately that I'll be stepping back from the forums. It's not only the thread but I get accusations via PM too. Take care of the thread and try to behave. You can freely use whatever I've written here if it's helpful to someone. Peace.


----------



## babyhunz

I'm looking to replacing the 6922EH tube that came with my Aune T1. I read all 311 pages (took me hours) and have narrowed it down to just one tube: Amperex 6DJ8 orange globe. Man is this thing hard to find for cheap! 
  
 Can anyone comment on the Amperex 6DJ8 PQ orange print? Is it comparable to the orange globe? Or should I just suck it up and pay $59 for the orange globe? http://tctubes.com/Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-orange-globe.aspx


----------



## wgkwgk

The OG is a good all-rounder and worth the money, IMHO.  Here's an unrequested suggestion: Some sellers will mention that "label conditions may vary" and/or will show a "representative picture" of the lot.  I'm just guessing here, but they will probably sell the least-readable labels first.  And, will probably show a picture of the best tube in the lot.  I've had to make some returns because of this.  Happy rolling.


----------



## Purpeltendire

salvatore said:


> Well I tried to offer the post for someone to take it over. I knew this way someone would definitely do so. There's been so much negativity going on here lately that I'll be stepping back from the forums. It's not only the thread but I get accusations via PM too. Take care of the thread and try to behave. You can freely use whatever I've written here if it's helpful to someone. Peace.


 
 Fair enough, I can respect that decision. Thank you for your contributions!


----------



## arcorob

So the question remains...how do we get Salvatore's valuable post on the front page? Ask the MOD Amos ?


----------



## ramaka

arcorob said:


> So the question remains...how do we get Salvatore's valuable post on the front page? Ask the MOD Amos ?


 
 Hi Rob,
 Received my *6GM8 ECC86 Tube (GE Label marking) made in HOLLAND *ordered via ebay and its really an awesome ($15) upgrade from the EH6922 stock it came with. Thanks for your help, PMs and spot on review on it. Cheers!!


----------



## arcorob

ramaka said:


> Hi Rob,
> Received my *6GM8 ECC86 Tube (GE Label marking) made in HOLLAND *ordered via ebay and its really an awesome ($15) upgrade from the EH6922 stock it came with. Thanks for your help, PMs and spot on review on it. Cheers!!


 

 I thought you might like that !!!  Now find a similar looking GE Branded Siemens made 6AQ8....take it up another notch...LOL


----------



## dana789

babyhunz said:


> I'm looking to replacing the 6922EH tube that came with my Aune T1. I read all 311 pages (took me hours) and have narrowed it down to just one tube: Amperex 6DJ8 orange globe. Man is this thing hard to find for cheap!
> 
> Can anyone comment on the Amperex 6DJ8 PQ orange print? Is it comparable to the orange globe? Or should I just suck it up and pay $59 for the orange globe? http://tctubes.com/Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-orange-globe.aspx


 

 When I started tube rolling, I contacted mhamel by PM after reading some of his entries in this thread. He sold me a small collection of tubes, some were quite inexpensive. I got one "name" tube (an Amperex OG) and a bunch of lesser known tubes. He even threw in a few of questional origin for free.This has allowed me to develop my critical listening skills at least a little. It's been lots of fun.
  
 My "problem" is that they all sound good to my ears. I can hear the differences but often can't rank them. Having grown up with a cassette player and a pair of $10 Radio Shack headphones, the performance of modern equipment (esp with old-school tubes) never ceases to amaze me.
  
 After you're gotten into rolling tubes, don't forget to "roll" various remasters of your favorite albums. That's lots of fun as well.
  
 dana


----------



## Purpeltendire

arcorob said:


> So the question remains...how do we get Salvatore's valuable post on the front page? Ask the MOD Amos ?


 
  
 I PMed joeq70 (OP) and asked if he could change the link. Salvatore's post IS on the first post at the bottom, the problem is the link goes to his now deleted post.


----------



## arcorob

Tell him to remove the reference to Salvatore and do this
  
*FAQ, Information and Tube Reviews for the AUNE T1 Tube DAC*
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4650#post_10268914
  
  
 And use the link above....It will link to your post with the data (which works, try it)
  
 Edit that post that you made so the top of the page is a title (like I have in bold) instead of the words about Salvatore;. Keep the credit at the bottom Courtesy of ....


----------



## diaBoliQu3

Why is Salvatore tube post removed?


----------



## MrEleventy

Someone told his friend Coil to take his ball and go home, guess Sal did the same.


----------



## arcorob

diaboliqu3 said:


> Why is Salvatore tube post removed?


 

 Salvatore has posted about this earlier. He did not wish to maintain the post and respectfully asked someone to take it over. When they did not step forward, he knew the quickest way was as he did. So..now it has changed or is changing hands.
  
 All arguments henceforth are off the table.
  
 so it is written, so it shall be done,


----------



## lwrs10

Reguarding the 5BK7A tube.......it lasted 2 weeks. Died this morning. This was a NOS one too. So, using a 5BK7 is a no-go!


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> Reguarding the 5BK7A tube.......it lasted 2 weeks. Died this morning. This was a NOS one too. So, using a 5BK7 is a no-go!


 

 what did it do when it died? Just stopped or blew like a road flare ? Red plate ?


----------



## MrEleventy

lwrs10 said:


> Reguarding the 5BK7A tube.......it lasted 2 weeks. Died this morning. This was a NOS one too. So, using a 5BK7 is a no-go!


Well, it's a good thing I only bought one for cheap. (<5 shipped). It'll be a good 2 weeks.


----------



## JoshuaA

Mine should arrive any day now.
  
 This thread is awesome!


----------



## arcorob

Glad you can join us...


----------



## Charliemotta

Thanks very much, that is just what I needed. I see the 12AX7 is not in the list at all. How do the 12AU7's sound with the adapter? 
 What is your favorite tube. Do new tubes measure up to NOS?


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> what did it do when it died? Just stopped or blew like a road flare ? Red plate ?




One channel got noise on it.


----------



## arcorob

charliemotta said:


> Thanks very much, that is just what I needed. I see the 12AX7 is not in the list at all. How do the 12AU7's sound with the adapter?
> What is your favorite tube. Do new tubes measure up to NOS?


 

 DO NOT put 12AU7, 12AX7 or any of that family in the AUNE. Even with the adapter it is ill advised. There is a pretty comprehensive list of acceptable tubes, all with their own benefits...stick to those...just a handful to try is going to cost as much as your AUNE..no need to play in other tube families...LOL


----------



## wgkwgk

This thread is indeed awesome.  But, it _will_ cost you money--there is always something new to try, or a curiosity to address.


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> DO NOT put 12AU7, 12AX7 or any of that family in the AUNE. Even with the adapter it is ill advised. There is a pretty comprehensive list of acceptable tubes, all with their own benefits...stick to those...just a handful to try is going to cost as much as your AUNE..no need to play in other tube families...LOL




12au7 with an adapter sounds great in the Aune.......it is not something I would call ill advised.


----------



## isendono

you making those adapter for sale ?


----------



## spacequeen7

isendono said:


> you making those adapter for sale ?


 
 this


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> 12au7 with an adapter sounds great in the Aune.......it is not something I would call ill advised.


 
 Hmm...well, I said Ill advised for two reasons. 1) There is a plethora of tubes to chose from in its class to not go into another tube family with an adapter 2) You have tested that it works...but not prolonged...look at the recent tube meltdown ?
  
 No offense is meant, just preaching caution...


----------



## Charliemotta

Whoa....where can I read about this tube melt down.?


----------



## arcorob

charliemotta said:


> Whoa....where can I read about this tube melt down.?


 

 Meltdown was poetic license on my part ..his tube didn't melt down...stopped working after 2 weeks
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4665#post_10274010


----------



## totalreader

Does anybody tried Aune T1 paired with Fostex t50RP?
 Is there thoughts about this combination?
 Thanks.


----------



## lwrs10

arcorob said:


> Hmm...well, I said Ill advised for two reasons. 1) There is a plethora of tubes to chose from in its class to not go into another tube family with an adapter 2) You have tested that it works...but not prolonged...look at the recent tube meltdown ?
> 
> No offense is meant, just preaching caution...




And in every post about that 5 volt tube I said it might not last. 

I am being the guinea pig here so no one else makes a mistake. I have been using a 12au7 for well over a month now. If you compare the gain, plate resistance, and so on, they are very similar to the 6dj8. The only pin difference is the center tap heater. 

I have enough exp with tubes that if I say it will work, it will.


----------



## abhinit90

totalreader said:


> Does anybody tried Aune T1 paired with Fostex t50RP?
> Is there thoughts about this combination?
> Thanks.


 
 Horrible, horrible and horrible.
  
 You're better off looking at the Schiit Combo


----------



## totalreader

Thanks!


----------



## arcorob

lwrs10 said:


> And in every post about that 5 volt tube I said it might not last.
> 
> I am being the guinea pig here so no one else makes a mistake. I have been using a 12au7 for well over a month now. If you compare the gain, plate resistance, and so on, they are very similar to the 6dj8. The only pin difference is the center tap heater.
> 
> I have enough exp with tubes that if I say it will work, it will.


 

 Easy padre, no one is questioning your knowledge and experience. I was erring on the side of caution. Someone misreads and sticks one straight in. Someone gets an adapter and its the wrong kind. Things happen...that don't have to ...but in no way refuting your knowledge, okay ?


----------



## toysareforboys

I received mine today! For $145 it's an unbeatable deal  I absolutely love it!! It's pushing my Sennheiser Amperior 32ohm headphones. I put in the Russian Voskhod Rocket tube (got a matched pair for $28 shipped), sounds absolutely wonderful. No harsh brights like the stock tube 
  
 I'm a head-fi noob so I apologize in advance.
  
 It sure is pretty!!! I like the tube glow! Pic: http://tafb.xxx/aune_t1_clear.jpg
  
 Thanks for all the great info in this thread 
  
 -Jamie M.


----------



## nbriles2000

I just received my Aune T1 in the mail about a half hour ago and I'm trying to play some records on it through my tube amp and I'm getting no sound! The headphone output works just fine but otherwise I get nothing. Anybody have any idea why? 
  
 It seems that I get no output from USB whatsoever either O.o


----------



## NCSUZoSo

the bass came back around 10 hours after cap burn in  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
 I'm looking forward to putting these in and breaking them in too:


----------



## NCSUZoSo

nbriles2000 said:


> I just received my Aune T1 in the mail about a half hour ago and I'm trying to play some records on it through my tube amp and I'm getting no sound! The headphone output works just fine but otherwise I get nothing. Anybody have any idea why?
> 
> It seems that I get no output from USB whatsoever either O.o


 
  
  
 It takes about 60 seconds for the USB sound to kick in, the tube has to heat up.


----------



## nbriles2000

I was messing around with different configurations for about 10 minutes or so, and I always allow a few minutes before doing anything for tubes to heat up.
 USB output on PC set to Aune T1, USB to Aune and no output via headphone or audio output.
  
 Record player to phono preamp to aune to tube amp only works via headphone output not line out. 
  
 Tried both on my lepai amp too and was the same.


----------



## MrEleventy

Just fyi, the rca in doesn't use the tube, just the usb does. rca in only outputs to headphone


----------



## arcorob

nbriles2000 said:


> I was messing around with different configurations for about 10 minutes or so, and I always allow a few minutes before doing anything for tubes to heat up.
> USB output on PC set to Aune T1, USB to Aune and no output via headphone or audio output.
> 
> Record player to phono preamp to aune to tube amp only works via headphone output not line out.
> ...


 
  
 First - on the USB out, have you checked that the AUNE is recognized as a device ? You right click your sound icon and look at the devices, Makes sure the USB AUDIO DRIVER IS ACTIVE and checked
  
 The PHONO stage in, LINE out to an amp should work as long as the amp is a PREAMP or Receiver, not a power amp..it is a line level..just like a CD player...and the switch on top needs to be switched to LINE and no USB plugged in


----------



## arcorob

ncsuzoso said:


> the bass came back around 10 hours after cap burn in
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Told you it would come back...there are some who don't believe in cap break-in...but I believe my ears..LOL


----------



## MrEleventy

Oh, and make sure you move the switch to usb if you're using the hp out. rca out should work regardless of switch position if usb is in use


----------



## nbriles2000

Yes I made sure that the aune was the primary playback device in both windows and on foobar and neither worked.
  
 I tried the line output to both my Magnavox 9304 power amp and my Lepai 2020. Neither made a sound, just hummed at full volume. The switch was set to respective outputs, obviously! 
 I didn't know that no USB could be plugged in.. Maybe thats why it wasn't working
  
 Just checked, still doesn't work even with USB unplugged


----------



## arcorob

nbriles2000 said:


> Yes I made sure that the aune was the primary playback device in both windows and on foobar and neither worked.
> 
> I tried the line output to both my Magnavox 9304 power amp and my Lepai 2020. Neither made a sound, just hummed at full volume. The switch was set to respective outputs, obviously!
> I didn't know that no USB could be plugged in.. Maybe thats why it wasn't working
> ...


 

 Okay ..first..it should  NEVER go to a power amp... Not sure why it wont work on the Lepai BUT why would you want to ? Your phono stage is a line level input and can go directly to the Lepai, it doesn't need the AUNE. Now the phono stage to the AUNE to use as a headphone amp should work..
  
 So --USB out to AUNE to Lepai doesn't let you play music ?


----------



## nbriles2000

Thats lame that it wont work going to my power amp! I was hoping to use it just for volume control until I finish my preamp build. 
 I guess if thats the case then I just need to figure out why USB to headphone/ line out to lepai doesn't work...


----------



## JoshuaA

What would be an ideal tube for HD598s?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

joshuaa said:


> What would be an ideal tube for HD598s?


 
 My *6DJ8 / ECC88* is really a good buddy to my HD 600.


----------



## JoshuaA

Thanks!
  
 Which one?
  
https://www.tubedepot.com/t/tubes/preamp-tubes/6dj8-6922-ecc88-e88cc-cv2492


----------



## NCSUZoSo

The question has a lot to do with your budget.  Some of us are running $20 tubes, others running $150 ones.


----------



## JoshuaA

Are there any qualitative differences in sound and build?
 I'm trying to grasp the price differences in that link among the same type of tube.
  
 I don't really have a budget, but I have a "wife filter".
 She would have killed me if I bought that CMA800R the other day, but I think I can get away with a few tubes under $200.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I'm partial to Siemens and Amperex, that is in the $60-$70, but like I said, you can do 1/2 that if you wanted.  The GE Smokey glass ones are also supposed to be great.
  
  
 I would look at this tube right now if I was you:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/221343315758?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
  
  
 It's a 1964 PQ Amperex (US Made)
  
 You can do make an offer and I bet he would take $60-$65
  
  
 **I have no affiliation at all with the sellers, I actually picked it myself to eye**
  
  
 Another great one for about 1/2 the price is the GE Smoked ECC88:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Smoked-GE-Conrac-6DJ8-ECC88-Stereo-Tube-8600-8100-0451-265-84-/181316987289?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a3755a999


----------



## JoshuaA

Nice. Ouch on the $44 CDN USPS fee.


----------



## MrEleventy

Try to get someone in the US to buy and reship. It's about $23 if you choose 6-10 day priority. First Class Intl is a lot cheaper, around $15.


----------



## JoshuaA

You just gave me an idea, I have free pickup at a US postal outlet 45min away.
 Should grab a 24, etc while I'm at it.


----------



## MrEleventy

That works too. Maybe rent a PO box and just pick up once a week.


----------



## JoshuaA

mreleventy said:


> That works too. Maybe rent a PO box and just pick up once a week.


 
 I think I'm missing something there. I have 10 free pickups at the depot I mentioned, haven't used one yet. What's the PO box do?
  
 btw, 24 = case of beer, the last few times customs waves me through (and with fees it's still a lot cheaper, you lucky Americans!)


----------



## MrEleventy

I figured that if you were close enough to the border, you might want to set up a PO Box, that'll give you a US address to ship to. Prices vary but some can be really cheap, like $50/yr. You'd make your money back after 2-4 shipments to there.


----------



## JoshuaA

Oh I see. The service mimics a US address, Canadians use it all the time... CBI, Niagara Secure Storage, etc., so I guess I'm good with 10 free pickups.
 Thanks


----------



## nbriles2000

Just as an update for my problem last night; I came to my pc this morning expecting frustration but it worked perfectly today without even changing anything!
 Electronics are weird... 
 Sounds great through my Lepai and now I'm waiting on parts for a SennGrado build! Should sound fantastic!


----------



## arcorob

Awesome..glad its working...


----------



## eclap

Hey guys, add me to the club, my T1 arrived today. It came with the EH 6922 valve. Loving this thing, paired with DT880 Pro 250 Ohm. My AD700 also sound great through this little thing, so much so that I'm selling my Sound Blaster Z. I'm reading through the thread as I'm writing this, absorbing information. Here's a couple of pics I took earlier tonight


----------



## rwpritchett

Hello all, newb here.
  
 I'm just getting into quality audio and I've got some tube questions.
  
 I did a lot of research before making any purchases and ended up going with AKG K550, Aune T1 DAC/amp, and I've just received my first tube to replace the stock 6922EH: a cryo treated Amperex 7308 vintage gold pin NOS tube.  I assume it's a 'white' label tube, but I can't really tell.  There's not much of the fragile ink left on the tube and it looks more grey than anything.  FWIW, it's a JAN tube (so must be a US made tube, not Holland, correct?) dated 1966.
  
 Anyway, the box the tube came in has the following:
  
 T1=11000, T2=11000, noise=A, microphonics=A
  
 What are the T values and is higher or lower better?  Is 11000 any good?  Same with the noise and microphonics, I assume A is good... what's the scale?
  
 And lastly, do tubes burn in and settle into their sound after a few dozen hours on the Aune T1?


----------



## pngwn

I just received a Voshkod 6n23p-eb and an Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88 (rightdelta7k4) and am really enjoying the different signatures with each tube. I think so far, the Voshkod is my favorite. It's not a rocket logo, but the bass just has so much PUNCH and impact! Also, to rank what I'm hearing of the soundstage between the stock 6922EH, Amperex OG, and Voshkod:
  

Stock 6922EH
Voshkod 6n23p-eb
Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88
  
 The rest of my chain consists of a iFi iCan and a AD900x. I had high hopes for the Amperex, but ultimately felt disappointed compared to the Voshkod, which is opposite of what I expected between the two. 
  
 BTW, if someone tube-proficient could take a quick look at the listing I bought from for the Amperex and let me know what kind of quality my tubes actually are, I'd greatly appreciate it! I'm completely new to tube rolling and found the identification of Amperex tubes a little dizzying...


----------



## inphu510n

pngwn said:


> I just received a Voshkod 6n23p-eb and an Amperex OG 6DJ8/ECC88 (rightdelta7k4) and am really enjoying the different signatures with each tube. I think so far, the Voshkod is my favorite. It's not a rocket logo, but the bass just has so much PUNCH and impact!




Someone more knowledgeable please correct me if I'm wrong here.
I believe all Voskhod have the rocket logo as that was the company/plant logo.
Also I'm not sure but I think Voskhod never made a -EB/V variant of the 6N23P. I wish they had because I've found the Reflektor 6N23P-EV to be inferior compared to the Voskhod 6N23P.

About the Amperex tubes, I've forgotten what era the ring getters were part of. What is the etched code near the bottom edge of the tube?
I have several Amperex tubes and the Orange Globes are quite good for the money.


----------



## Chs177

inphu510n said:


> ... I think Voskhod never made a -EB/V variant of the 6N23P.


 
 Yes, it's correct.


----------



## marts30

Have an issue with my T1, I turn it on and it crackles bad. Not sure what is causing, sometimes it doesn't do it but most times when I turn it on it does it. Sometimes unplugging and replugging fixes it.
  
 Bad tube?


----------



## eclap

Hey guys, can you suggest a good site to buy valves from in the UK? I'm not looking to spend £100+ on them, want to experiment with some budget ones first.


----------



## pngwn

inphu510n said:


> Someone more knowledgeable please correct me if I'm wrong here.
> I believe all Voskhod have the rocket logo as that was the company/plant logo.
> Also I'm not sure but I think Voskhod never made a -EB/V variant of the 6N23P. I wish they had because I've found the Reflektor 6N23P-EV to be inferior compared to the Voskhod 6N23P.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Ah oops. I confused myself going back and forth on forum posts about the 6n23p then. Still interested in ordering a Voskhod 6N23P as I've read good things, especially compared to the Reflektor 6N23P-EB.
  
 The code near the bottom of my Amperexes is delta(?)7k4. I can't make out the code on the other one.


----------



## spacequeen7

you can't really on single description ,rating of particular tube ,I have few "Reflectors" and a pair of "Rockets" ,some are better then others ..it all depends from year the tube was made and from Getter (there is at list three different Getters when mentioning both tubes )matter of a fact is the best one for me came from this batch 
 Reflector *6N27P *
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/251235437500?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## inphu510n

pngwn said:


> Ah oops. I confused myself going back and forth on forum posts about the 6n23p then. Still interested in ordering a Voskhod 6N23P as I've read good things, especially compared to the Reflektor 6N23P-EB.
> 
> The code near the bottom of my Amperexes is delta(?)7k4. I can't make out the code on the other one.




So that's either a 4th week of November 1967 or 1977 made in Heerlen, Holland. I'm leaning toward a 1967 because of the ring getter. Anyone else?
The delta symbol is more like a right triangle correct?

Also, as I've got several Amperex tubes, I've found that I prefer certain variants/dates of manufacture to others. As you roll more you'll find the same.


----------



## inphu510n

spacequeen7 said:


> you can't really on single description ,rating of particular tube ,I have few "Reflectors" and a pair of "Rockets" ,some are better then others ..it all depends from year the tube was made and from Getter (there is at list three different Getters when mentioning both tubes )matter of a fact is the best one for me came from this batch
> Reflector [COLOR=333333]*6N27P *[/COLOR]
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/251235437500?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649




Very true this is.
As we're also finding, the capacitors used in the T1's manufacture also vary.
I have Lelon caps in mine and am curious what it'll sound like with those changed out for better quality versions.

I'm aware of small and large saucer getters. What other type is there?


----------



## pngwn

inphu510n said:


> pngwn said:
> 
> 
> > Ah oops. I confused myself going back and forth on forum posts about the 6n23p then. Still interested in ordering a Voskhod 6N23P as I've read good things, especially compared to the Reflektor 6N23P-EB.
> ...


 
  
 Yeah, it's a right triangle. I did notice as I was looking for Amperex tube info that there are several batches from a lot of different dates. Which variants do you prefer and why? Also, is there any sort of "tube burn in" that might explain why I don't like the Amperex OG? Of course, it could all be my own personal preferences, but I find the bass impact very soft, female voices rather husky, and the soundstage a little congested. The Reflektor has far better bass, smooth midrange, and slightly better soundstage. 
  
 Perhaps I should try to find specifically dated Amperex or try Mullards or Miniwatt-Dario for better bass impact and extension in my system?
  
 Also, just how much difference does cap rolling make vs tubes?


----------



## toysareforboys

eclap said:


> Hey guys, can you suggest a good site to buy valves from in the UK? I'm not looking to spend £100+ on them, want to experiment with some budget ones first.


 

 You mean tubes? This is a great value with shipping, give it a go! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201019380488
  
 -Jamie M.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I may be selling my RCA Amperex seen a few pages back next to my Siemens and own it's on.  I paid $45 for that tube and it says:
  


> This is tested to be in guaranteed working condition  I tested this on a High Quality Professonal Hickok 539C  Dynamic Mutual Conductance Tester:  Well Balanced Plates,  21,000 & 20,000     Average new for this tube type: 15,000+


 


> Halo Getter, Getter Pan & Grey Plates


 
  
  

  

  

  
 It's a great balanced, transparent, but lively tube with good tight bass.  Easily worth the $45 I paid for less than a month ago to grab it.  I have it purely as a back up and if anyone wanted it I would consider selling it for what I paid + shipping (same as I did).  Let me know if it catches anyone's eye.


----------



## eclap

toysareforboys said:


> You mean tubes? This is a great value with shipping, give it a go! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201019380488
> 
> -Jamie M.


 
 valve = tube
  
 Valve is an english term
 Tube is an american term
  
 Thanks for the link


----------



## toysareforboys

Is there a way to make one program play on the right channel and another play on the left channel at the same time?
  
 I run a news feed in the background 24/7 and although it's pretty low volume so I can usually hear other things over top of it, sometimes things are a similar volume and it's difficult to make out.
  
 I'm not sure if my brain can sort out different audio feeds in left and right, but I'd like to give it a try if possible.
  
 Pic: http://tafb.xxx/volume.png
  
 Anyone know a way to do it? Basically as you see in the image above, would like flash player on the left and opera on the right. Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 x64.
  
 -Jamie M.


----------



## Salvatore

Seems like the useful links are not yet linked to the first post. As it would be stupid to not have this info readily available, I have restored the links for the time being. If some more active member wants to take it over just ask joeq to change the link. The info is pretty comprehensive as is, but if you can think of anything that would add more value please let me know.


----------



## BaTou069

Not sure if this was already mentioned, but the Aune T1 works just great when connected to my android smartphone LG G2 running Carbon Rom (OTG cable)


----------



## Daynova

Sorry if this was already mentioned somewhere, but when I have both headphones and speakers connected, are the speakers muted? Or is there a switch for selecting the output?


----------



## BaTou069

daynova said:


> Sorry if this was already mentioned somewhere, but when I have both headphones and speakers connected, are the speakers muted? Or is there a switch for selecting the output?


 
 No, speakers arent muted. You can only mute them on your amplifier, or mute the headphone with the volume knob


----------



## Daynova

batou069 said:


> No, speakers arent muted. You can only mute them on your amplifier, or mute the headphone with the volume knob


 
 That's too bad. I have the Audioengine A2 and the volume knob is unfortunately on the back, so not that convenient to reach. Thanks for letting me know!


----------



## BaTou069

I received my Aune T1 last week with the 6922 stock tube, and I'm interested in buying 2 different tubes. 
 While reading about posted reviews here and checking out some online stores, I found something I don't understand, maybe someone can explain the difference, for example:
  
 http://tctubes.com/Amperex-6922-E88CC-PQ-gold-pins.aspx
  
 $30 difference between tests as new and tests as new phono grade...
  
 What is phono grade? Does it make a difference in use as a buffer? And what do they mean with tested an new at all?
  
  
  
  
 Another question to HE-400 owners: What gain settings do you use?
  
  
 Thanks


----------



## Salvatore

batou069 said:


> $30 difference between tests as new and tests as new phono grade...
> 
> What is phono grade? Does it make a difference in use as a buffer? And what do they mean with tested an new at all?


 
  
 Tubes have grading system depending on the noise they make and I believe phono grade is the quietest one. Many members here have bought driver grade tubes and are happy with the performance. My opinion is you don't need phono grade tubes in T1.
  
  
 Check these links out if you are interested to know more about tube testing:
  
 http://www.wikihow.com/Find-out-if-an-Electronic-Tube-Is-Good
 http://www.radiolaguy.com/info/TubeTesting.htm
 http://www.tubeaudiostore.com/tubmatdem.html


----------



## teb1013

salvatore said:


> Tubes have grading system depending on the noise they make and I believe phono grade is the quietest one. Many members here have bought driver grade tubes and are happy with the performance. My opinion is you don't need phono grade tubes in T1.
> 
> 
> Check these links out if you are interested to know more about tube testing:
> ...




Listening to driver grade 7308 on the T1 right now. Sounds great! This grade is a big saving over the more premium grades and just as good for this application.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

my T1 has been out of commission for three days now waiting on this to arrive in the mail.  Once I put the headphone coupling caps on for some reason I couldn't get the board back in the chassis so I took it out and had to desolder the switch which came out perfect but I guess the USB B Jack got too hot because one of the pin pulled out during desoldering and I'm talking about this by the way:


----------



## ElBartoME

I've got my Aune for about one month and I really love it. I bought a variety of tubes for it.
  
http://i.imgur.com/ty5r6s0.jpg
  
 The Siemens E88CC were my favorite until I bought the Valvo E188CC for a reasonable price. This thing will stay in my T1. The ECC85 were a bad choice. 3 of the 4 don't really work in the T1.
  
 Maybe I'll write a full-fledged review of every tube later. I'm still waiting for another two tubes.


----------



## Zalgorithm

elbartome said:


> The ECC85 were a bad choice.


 
  
 I have 2 ECC85 tubes and I do not like either of them, although one did sound a little better than the other. At any rate, I too have a Siemens tube which I enoy. I think it's an ECC189.
  
 My girlfriend's father has lots of tubes he's collected over the years from being involved in radio and television and I managed to find an Amperex Bugle boy that appears to be in great condition- I like this tube as well. He's got many more, so I'll have to head back over and see what else I can find that'll fit the T1.


----------



## sobryanbutwhy

Funny, I use an Mullard-IEC ECC85 and love it. Much better then stock 6922 EH. However, I got a couple of GE german made ECC85 and did not particularly care for them.


----------



## ElBartoME

I'm not sure what the deal is with my ECC85. 3 of them sound really horrible. Completely distorted. Only the 4th one works and it does quite well. The 4th one does have a gray shield and another type of getter than the rest. It also looks completely new.
  
 I think it's time to change the capacitors in my T1...


----------



## sobryanbutwhy

Did you clean the pins? As per one of the more knowledgeable tube users on this thread, I had to clean every single NOS tube I ordered. They all sounded like a crackled mess out of the box. All I did was the eraser trick with some rubbing alcohol for good measure and it worked pretty well. I actually got lazy and one of mu GE's still hasn't been cleaned good enough or is just not fully functional.

 I am getting the urge to try some Telefunken, despite not being well represented in this thread.


 Quick question to one of the tube guru's that are in this thread: I have noticed you say RCA branded Siemens, etc. How do you know it is a Siemans rebranded and not simply an RCA? I've seen some that claim this yet I don't see anything different about them. Possibly the etched on codes?


----------



## eastpac

elbartome said:


> I've got my Aune for about one month and I really love it. I bought a variety of tubes for it.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/ty5r6s0.jpg
> 
> ...


 
  
 Can you provide a brief insight into the Valvo E188CC? How is the bass on it? I have heard good things on that tube but haven't read many in depth reviews on it other than that it sounds really good.


----------



## ElBartoME

eastpac said:


> Can you provide a brief insight into the Valvo E188CC? How is the bass on it? I have heard good things on that tube but haven't read many in depth reviews on it other than that it sounds really good.


 
  
 To be honest my E88CC Siemens A64G (single stage disc getter) is a little bit bass heavier than the Valvo E188CC ⊿9F1. But I like the Valvo more because it is much more balanced. The soundstage is much wider too. Everything feels more alive.
  
 BTW, i'm using the DT770 Pro 80 Ohms


----------



## teb1013

Sobryanbutwhy If you try Telefunken, let us know. They're usually pretty expensive. Upscale Audio has Telefunken CCA 6922s for $275 USD but these are "only" $110 for driver grade which should work fine with the Aune T1. They have another 6922 for $129. Frankly this is more than I have to spend on a single tube. My Amperex 7308 cost $50 for driver grade. That's about as high as I want to go. Good luck in your search.


----------



## RTTO

Got my T1 about 5 months ago. Did the first tube swap Friday. Since I'm not too keen about OS tube as they are not sustainable. The tube I got is Sovtek 6H30Pi as suggested. It is definitely an improvement over the stock 6922EH in general. Treble is less hot and the bottom is fuller. The tube runs much hotter than the stock tube. So far so good.


----------



## HeavenNotes

joeq70 said:


> Hey folks! I'm surprised this wallet-friendly device hasn't really been mentioned much here on head-fi. I recently stumbled upon a thread over at rockgrotto that basically raves about it, so I decided to order one from Aune on ebay. It just came in today. I'm listening to a FLAC rip of the new Pinback album as I type this, and I'm seriously shocked at how good this thing sounds. It sounds good, really good, like light-years-better-than-anything-else-I-have-ever-heard-no-contest good.I haven't done many reviews, and I literally just started listening to this device, so let me present you some brief points worth mentioning.
> 
> 
> I recently had the Audioquest Dragonfly in my possession and the Aune T1 absolutely obliterates it.
> ...


 
  
  
 Hello all
  
 I found a gem that is not listed here.  ADZAM E 288 CC  The best of all, period.   It is a bigger tube.  Pictures soon.


----------



## toysareforboys

heavennotes said:


> Hello all
> 
> I found a gem that is not listed here.  ADZAM E 288 CC  The best of all, period.   It is a bigger tube.  Pictures soon.


 

 Did it really required quoting the entire first post?
  
 -Jamie M.


----------



## spacequeen7

^^ I think he's really exited 
  
 @


> The best of all


 

HeavenNotes... how many tubes have you compare it to ??


----------



## ElBartoME

heavennotes said:


> Hello all
> 
> I found a gem that is not listed here.  ADZAM E 288 CC  The best of all, period.   It is a bigger tube.  Pictures soon.


 
 You are sure the T1 isn't going to be damaged in the long run? It has a MUCH higher heater current than the E88CC.


----------



## toysareforboys

elbartome said:


> You are sure the T1 isn't going to be damaged in the long run? It has a MUCH higher heater current than the E88CC.


 

 I'll use my friends thermal camera to snap a pic of my Aune T1. It really cooks, almost uncomfortable to hold your hand on the Aune logo! I'm running the 6N23P Russian Voskhod Rocket. Didn't run it with the stock tube enough to tell if it ran any cooler.
  
 -Jamie M.


----------



## ElBartoME

toysareforboys said:


> I'll use my friends thermal camera to snap a pic of my Aune T1. It really cooks, almost uncomfortable to hold your hand on the Aune logo! I'm running the 6N23P Russian Voskhod Rocket. Didn't run it with the stock tube enough to tell if it ran any cooler.
> 
> -Jamie M.


 
 I'm talking about the E288CC. The 6N23P does almost have the same heater current like the E88CC.
  
 E88CC = 300mA
 E288CC = 475mA


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I finally get my Aune T1 back up and running with all caps now modded tomorrow when the replacement USB B PCB Jack arrives after the original pulled out a leg during de-soldering since I couldn't get it to go back in place with the jack sticking out (one of four legs).  I have been down probably a week at best, maybe longer.  However my Yamaha RV-V863 is a 1 Grand receiver when it was made and it has a decent headphone amp, it clicks over and disables the primaries when you plug in a set.  I'm not sure if it will drive 600 Ohms, but it wouldn't surprise me.  This receiver has all Burr Brown equipment inside and uses Yamaha Silent Cinema* (which is pretty well known), so signal definitely doesn't deteriorate going into this baby.  Not to mention I run my PC/Media sound in through Multi-Channel in, which disables all processing and only routes the signal through the AV amps.  Overall I am really happy with the setup in my signature.  I do like to have the Aune T1 if I'm going to do dedicated headphone listening (which I do often), as it does it sound better than the path from the Creative through whatever is available inside the receiver.  With the Aune T1 I know exactly what is doing what and what is driving what + a tube audio buffer.  It gives an overall more organic and wide sound stage, possibly lacking some of the bass after my cap swap, so that isn't true with the stock unit compared directly to my AV headphone signal on just bass.  Everywhere it definitely loses in every other category and the bass is up for debate depending on how much bass you want.  You can remedy my drop in bass by rollling caps if you get the same result, I have heard good things about the high end Panasonic caps and I think they actually fit unlike mine.
  

  


> Headphone Jack Rated Output/Impedance
> CD, etc. (1 kHz, 50 mV, 8 Ω) ............................... 150 mV/100 Ω
> • Frequency Response
> CD to Front L/R, 10 Hz to 100 kHz
> ...................................................................................... +0/–3 dB


 
  
  
*So I guess according to the specs, is that just saying it will output 150mV at 100ohms?*
  
  
**SILENT CINEMA*
 Yamaha has developed a natural, realistic sound effect
 DSP algorithm for headphones. Parameters for
 headphones have been set for each sound field so that
 accurate representations of all the sound field programs
 can be enjoyed on headphones.

 SILENT CINEMA allows you to enjoy multi-channel
 music or movie sound, including Dolby Digital and DTS
 sources, through ordinary headphones. SILENT CINEMA
 activates automatically whenever you connect headphones
 to the PHONES jack while listening to sound field
 programs (see page 48). When activated, the SILENT
 CINEMA indicator lights up in the front panel display
  
 (The thing is, with multi-channel in, it disables any type of processing, so I couldn't select anything anyway.  All the same circuitry is obviously used though)
  
  
 Receiver:  http://hometheaterreview.com/yamaha-rx-v863-72-channel-home-theater-receiver-reviewed/
  
  
 With my Receiver you have these options:

  


> HEADPHONE Adjusts the headphone LFE level. 93
> HEADPHONE Adjusts the amount of the dynamic range compression of the headphones. 93


 

  


> Use this feature to adjust the output level of the LFE (lowfrequency
> effect) channel according to the capacity of
> your subwoofer or headphones. The LFE channel carries
> low-frequency special effects which are only added to
> ...


 
  
  
 Any opinions on what to set these to?  Setting the LFE level for headphones works how exactly, is this more or less a crossover to prevent distortion from high level of bass?  It's not like there is a sub inside, lol.
  
  
 Or does anyone have anything to say about the spec of the headphone performance listed in the manual (listed right after I ended first paragraph, the first quotation).


----------



## HeavenNotes

spacequeen7 said:


> ^^ I think he's really exited
> 
> @
> 
> HeavenNotes... how many tubes have you compare it to ??




Hello. I have the top of the line.


----------



## JoshuaA

I have a few tubes coming in the mail, and I'm looking for advice on new headphones to use particularly with the AuneT1, budget up to $300 or $400.
  
 I currently use HD598 and UE6000.
  
 I listen to a wide range of music but lately tend to veer towards enjoying vocal tracks, electronic and hiphop.
 My young kids sometimes use the AuneT1 to listen to their pop and soundtracks. They have their own Amperiors and Momentums (not used on the AuneT1)
  
 I've considered HE400, AKG K701, DT880/990 (not sure which ohm).
  
 Suggestions?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

What are you primarily doing with the headphones?


----------



## babyhunz

Thanks to you guys I have splurged on the Aune T1 and a bunch of tubes. The Aune T1 is the best gateway drug to the world of tubes and I absolutely love the purchase. Anyway since I have all these tubes to compare, I want to share my *opinion* of them. Again, these are merely my opinion and is therefore skewed with my taste of music. For reference, I love progressive house and trance music, although I do listen to acoustic and classical music once in a while.
  

  
  
 From left to right:
  
 Eletro Harmonix 6922EH - Stock tube with the Aune T1. It’s free so I can’t complain. It does everything just fine. Average, nothing special. A little bit heavy on the bass but not that much. Great for pop and top 40 songs and certainly a gateway drug to the other tubes. One day you will want to tube roll like me…
  
 Amperex 7308 (halo getter, green label, globe logo, made in US in 1968) - Soundstage galore. Spacious, airy sound. Definitely heavier on the bass than the 6922EH but because everything sounds so wide, you can hear a lot more details than usual. I never knew what “holographic” sounds means until now. I’m blown away. This tube is a real gem but it’s a bit too pricey. I paid $65 for the tube. I highly recommend this tube for classical and acoustic songs. I use this tube with the Above & Beyond - Acoustic album in FLAC.
  
 Amperex 6DJ8 (A getter, orange label, PQ logo, made in Holland in 1972) - Bass bass bass bass bass. You lose high end and you certainly lose details, but you gain massive bass. It pounds your head. I actually like this tube from time to time because it is fun. Sometimes you are bored of the analytical sound from other tubes or other headphones. Sometimes you just want to have fun. Absolutely terrific for progressive house, dubstep and more. Also these are cheap. I got this tube for $25. I listen to Daft Punk - Random Access Memories (Studio Master edition 24-bit 88.2kHz). 
  
 Amperex 6DJ8 (A getter, orange label, PQ logo, made in Holland in 1974) - Ok so compared to the above, this tube is 2 years newer. Something changed because the bass is not the same. It’s there but the impact is less. Since the bass is not as emphasized, you get some of the higher end back. But if I want higher end and less bass I would have gone with the Amperex 7308 above anyway (except if price matters. This tube is significantly cheaper.)


----------



## NCSUZoSo

You need to look at a Siemens E188CC (CCa, German Made) next or just some 6992 E88CC and give them a try, however the E188C (and E288C) are god awful expensive since they are both unlabeled CCa tubes which were never supposed to leave Germany.
  
 Here is a E288CC just to show you they do exist haha:
 http://www.upscaleaudio.com/Siemens-E288CC-8223_p_43.html  ($170/tube)
  
 And here is a "normal" E188CC/CCa:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CCa-SIEMENS-audio-tube-premium-6299-E88CC-CCa-/281270933632?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item417d0dd880 ($129/tube)
  
 (To read an impression of the E188CC (one design used), give this a read: http://www.tubemuseum.org/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SH-E88CC+PVT.STOCK)
  
  
*3 things every Siemens E88CC has (due to the amount of fakes you should check this, same with Amperex): *
  
*1) There should be a number inside of a circle in the center of the pins.*
*2) There should be 4 ridges on the top of the tube going outward from the center.*
*3) The pins should be gold.*
  
*If all three of those are true, then you have a real Siemens 6992/E88CC*
  
  
 Good reviews on your existing tubes though!!  Also if you think rolling a single tube is addictive?  Wait until you get a device that is tube powered instead of just a tube buffer and you are playing with 4-8 tubes  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
  
  
 This is also a useful site when comparing tubes you are considering with known legendary 6992 tubes, for example he has a top 5 CCa tubes ever made:
  
 Quote:


> *The Best Sounding CCa=6922 ever made* TOP 5: -----
> 1) CCa Siemens & Halske 1950's "U" getter halo and 1960's "O" getter halo "Rarest and most sought after CCa, has "gray shield" between plates, Most realistic sounding holographic soundstage, pure seductive sonic joy, complex symphonic images emerge effortlessly"
> 2) CCa Telefunken West Germany 1960's "excellent neutral holographic soundstage, vast vocabulary of tone establishes remarkable layers of harmonics, very rare"
> 3) CCa Siemens & Halske A-FRAME construction late 1960's - early 1970's "beautiful open air holographic images, low microphonic tube construction, rare"
> ...


 
  
 https://www.tubeworld.com/6922.htm
  
 When looking I'm pretty sure I saw a Lorenz CCa on Ebay  (#4).
  
  
 Have fun and report back to us with any questions or when you decide you want to do some soldering/desoldering  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  (Caps Mod)
  
 _


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Hey guys, don't forget I still have those *"Super Gold" ELNA SILMIC II* (47uF/50V) headphone PCB coupling caps for sale.  I got a set of 4 so I have 2 for sale, they ran $20 (Ebay Link), so I'll sell the other two caps for $10.  These fit with only a slight modification once soldered, you just need to bend it slightly away from the Mosfet close by, other than that these are the only caps I have that actually fit haha.
  
 Here is Ebay ad: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350858832618?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
  

  
  
  
 I'll do $10 w/ free shipping inside the US, outside the US I'll have to charge shipping.
  
  
 Here is what I mean about fitting; note your actual clearance height is right at 20mm, so keep that in mind when selecting your caps unless you want to do this:


----------



## BaTou069

What are they good for? Only for in case they break? Or do they change SQ?
 Just curious
  
 Quote:


ncsuzoso said:


> Hey guys, don't forget I still have those *"Super Gold" ELNA SILMIC II* (47uF/50V) headphone PCB coupling caps for sale.  I got a set of 4 so I have 2 for sale, they ran $20 (Ebay Link), so I'll sell the other two caps for $10.  These fit with only a slight modification once soldered, you just need to bend it slightly away from the Mosfet close by, other than that these are the only caps I have that actually fit haha.
> 
> Here is Ebay ad: http://www.ebay.com/itm/350858832618?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> 
> ...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I haven't had a chance to listen to the headphone coupling caps, but they should only add to the sound stage size and increased clarity that I got with all my other cap upgrades you can see in the pic and listed below.  Basically "rolling" capacitors is the 2nd most popular thing to do with the Aune T1 after tubes.  I have to say capacitors make about the same amount of SQ change as a tube or possibly more, depending on what tube to what tube.
  
 These are my other cap upgrades:
  
 Headphone amp board coupling caps > ELNA SilmicII 47uF 50V
 Headphone amp board rail voltage caps > ELNA Cerafine 470uF 25V
 Secondary power supply caps > ELNA SilmicII 330uF 25V
 Main power supply caps > Nichicon (Fine Gold) 3300uF 25V


----------



## JoshuaA

ncsuzoso said:


> What are you primarily doing with the headphones?




They will always be stationed at the AuneT1 or some other DAC/amp.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

joshuaa said:


> They will always be stationed at the AuneT1 or some other DAC/amp.


 
  
 I meant in terms of what type of material will you be listening to the most.  Music? Movies? Games? etc.  Or a combo of all 3 or more, like myself.


----------



## BaTou069

ncsuzoso said:


> I haven't had a chance to listen to the headphone coupling caps, but they should only add to the sound stage size and increased clarity that I got with all my other cap upgrades you can see in the pic and listed below.  Basically "rolling" capacitors is the 2nd most popular thing to do with the Aune T1 after tubes.  I have to say capacitors make about the same amount of SQ change as a tube or possibly more, depending on what tube to what tube.
> 
> These are my other cap upgrades:
> 
> ...


 
 So you switched 4 caps in the Aune only?
 Interesting.... I didn't try yet, but on my first look I didn't realize how I'd open the Aune. But I'm sure I'll find out
 If you send the caps overseas I'm in


----------



## NCSUZoSo

That is 8 caps, 2 go into each position.


----------



## JoshuaA

ncsuzoso said:


> I meant in terms of what type of material will you be listening to the most.  Music? Movies? Games? etc.  Or a combo of all 3 or more, like myself.



For movies, we use RS170s on the TV or myself on the MacBook, HD598/UE6000 if it needs to be quiet. No gaming here.
So new cans would be music only, stationary at the AuneT1 or another DAC/amp.
I'm reading some, like DT990-600 don't play well with the AuneT1, so I'm not sure what to get, a different DT, AKG701, HE-400, etc?

What do you guys recommend?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I looked hard at the HE-400 cans, but I couldn't put that much money into headphones.  Is that the type of budget you are looking at though?
  
 Also I suggest you go to one of the many dedicated headphone threads and tell them your use of the headphones and your budget.  Something new is always coming out and a lot of people are biased towards brands, so it's good to get a decent amount of suggestions.
  
 Here is one of the headphone threads, although this is a gaming one, but has anything from $20 cans to $800+ cans:
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/534479/mad-lust-envys-headphone-gaming-guide-update-2-20-2014-boompro-list-chicoloms-faq-added


----------



## BaTou069

ncsuzoso said:


> That is 8 caps, 2 go into each position.


 
 After how much time owning the Aune did you switch the caps?
 I want to get used first to the stock sound (Aune T1+ Hifiman He-400 velour pads unmodded) so I will pay attention to a difference.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Not very long, lol.  However I also have ended warranties on many things way before their time (years).
  
 Pretty much once I was happy with my tube/s.


----------



## hwieniawski

Hey,
  
 So I'm very close to splurging on an Aune T1, any of you have any experience with the site AliExpress?
  
 http://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-aune-t1.html
  
 I take it it's similar to a chinese ebay/amazon?
  
 This is a very expensive purchase for me, so I'm looking for the absolute cheapest place possible to buy! Eventually I'll probably upgrade tubes etc, but for now I'm just looking for the basic tube set up.
  
 Any advice is appreciated!


----------



## rwpritchett

babyhunz said:


> Thanks to you guys I have splurged on the Aune T1 and a bunch of tubes. The Aune T1 is the best gateway drug to the world of tubes and I absolutely love the purchase. Anyway since I have all these tubes to compare, I want to share my *opinion* of them. Again, these are merely my opinion and is therefore skewed with my taste of music. For reference, I love progressive house and trance music, although I do listen to acoustic and classical music once in a while.


 
  
 babyhunz: what headphones were you using for your comparison?


----------



## ElBartoME

Tube review time!
  
  
*E88CC Philips Miniwatt SQ Code: 7LI R6A4*
  

  
 I got this tube very recently. I read good things about this tube and I got it for about €5. There is plenty of bass in this tube but also got some nice treble. The soundstage is good but there are other tubes that are better in this category. It is a great tube overall and if you can get your hands on it for a reasonable price I think you won't regret it. 
  
  
*E88CC Philips Code: ??G ⊿2A3*
  

  
Sorry, don't have the complete code. It just is not readable anymore. This is the first old tube I bought for my T1. I was surprised changing tubes made such a difference. This tube is quite similar to the Miniwatt above but lacks a little bit of the highs in my opinion. Unlike the Miniwatt this tube is almost new. The current ratings are much better. Maybe it needs a little bit more time to open up. Funny thing is that this is the tube that I paid the most for. Don't get me wrong, this is not a bad tube, but I have better tubes right now so I won't use this one at the moment.
 
I originally thought this was a SQ (special quality) model just like the one above, but I'm not so sure anymore. There is no SQ marking like on the Miniwatt. Both have a o-ring getter but the one on the Miniwatt is much smaller.
 
  
*E188CC Valvo Code: VR9 ⊿9F1*
  

  
 Got this tube with the Valvo tube below for about €40. My favorite tube so far. It does not have massive bass like the Miniwatt but it is far more balanced than any other tube. You can hear practically everything over the whole frequency band. The soundstage is amazing. Much more open and just smoother than the other tubes I have. This is my daily driver at the moment and it will be until it dies or I find a better tube for a reasonable price. I don't want to pay €150 for a CCa or Siemens E188CC. It is just too much.
  
 I also noticed that this tube does not have any hum or microphonics at very high volumes. Absolutely NOTHING. I was fascinated. Most of my other tubes hum at high volumes and they behave microphonic. You can test it yourself by putting the volume at max and tapping against the tube. If you hear that tap in your headphones your tube is microphonic.
  
  
*E88CC Valvo Code: 7LG ⊿0C3*
  

  
 This is the tube I got with the Valvo E188CC. It's an okay tube. I guess it has seen its best days because it sounds quite different than the other Valvo E88CC below. It's still an okay tube, but nothing more. 
  
  
*E88CC Valvo Code: 7LG ⊿0I4*
  

  
 Got this tube also for about €5 and holy mother of bass! This tube is really bass heavy. But it's treble is also through the roof. It almost hurts my ears. I guess I have to lower them in the EQ. This is just too much. Unfortunately the mids are suffering because of this.
  
  
*E88CC Siemens Code: A64G*
  

  
 A tube marked with BWB (Bundesamt für Wehrtechnik und Beschaffung). It was most likely used in the german military (Bundeswehr) and found their way to me for a reasonable price. Although they were quite heavily used they still sound very nice. My favorites next to the Valvo E188CC. Compared to the Philips E88CC they have a better soundstage, a little bit less bass but more treble. In my opinion more balanced.
  
 This is the one with the single stage plate getter.
  
  
*ECC85 Siemens Code: ?28 ⊿9G4*
  

  
 I don't really know why I thought it was a good idea to get these ECC85 tubes. They have a much higher heater current than the E88CCs and I'm not sure if the T1 can handle that over a longer period. This is the only ECC85 tube from the 4 I got that actually works in the T1. It sound okay, but nothing special...
  
 This one has a disc getter.
  
  
*ECC85 Siemens Code(s): 1U8 ‡1B, 1U7 ‡5K, 1U3 ‡7E*
  

  
 Stay away from these. Completely distorted sound. It also hums like crazy. Even at normal volume. Nothing to see or hear here...
  
 They have o-ring getters.
  
  
*E288CC Valvo Code: N60G*
  

  
 My first E288CC. It isn't a direct exchange for the E88CC family, well, at least normally. But it fits just fine in the Aune. It does have a higher heater current so the tube gets quite hotter than E88CC ones. These tubes go for at least over €100 on eBay. Really good NOS tubes are even more expensive. I waited long enough and got a really nice deal. I bought one tube for €35. NOS! This tube looks perfectly. Also remember this tube is about 2cm higher than E88CC tubes. The guards will still fit but you have to experiment with the placement.
  

  
 The sound is really nice. Compared to the E188CC the bass is not as strong but the difference is only really marginal. What I really like about the tube is the fantastic soundstage and better mids. It also has a much more warmer sound than the tubes from the E88CC family. I really like it. But I would only recommend the tube if you can get it for a reasonable price. 
  
 EDIT: After several hours of listening this tube really starts to open up. The sound is so open it makes my head fly. Very nice!
  
 No hum or microphonics on this tube! Excellent!
 This one has an O-ring getter.
  
  
  
*E288CC Valvo Code: N65A*
  

  
 This one is a little bit different than the E288CC I got before. It has a single stage plate getter. But it is my favorite tube so far. It's like the other E288CC but it is warmer. The bass is a little bit more intense and so is the treble. Soundstage is the same which is great. Still the same great open soundscape. As far as I know most if not all the E288CC tubes were made by Siemens so it shouldn't really make a huge difference which brand you buy if the getter type is the same. Unfortunately they are very hard to find or extremely pricey. I was lucky two times and I don't think I will be again.
  
  
  
All reviews were made with a Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro 80 Ohms!
  
 These are all my tubes I have at the moment. I will try to add more tubes if I get more and also update the reviews if the sound somehow changed.
  
  

  
  
 Changing caps!
  
 Here are some pictures of the process.
  

 I changed the headphone coupling caps first (right ones). ELNA Silmic II 47µF 50V. You have to bend them like that otherwise there is no other way to fit them in there. The old ones are ridiculously tiny.
  

 Here are the rail voltage caps. ELNA Silmic II 470µF 25V. And they are huuuge. Good luck fitting them insde the case. I had to bend them like that .
  

  
 The secondary supply caps were really tricky. I wanted to close the case so I had to improvise. I took some wire and twisted them like in the picture. This is important for reducing the inductance of the wire. I positioned the caps on the right side of the case where there is a little bit more room. Then I fixed everything with tape. Don't forget to fix the caps inside the case too. I used tape for that too. But you can't see it in this picture.
  
 The main supply caps are still the old ones. I'll change them tomorrow if I got my new ones.
  

  
 Puhh..and it still does turn on! I need to let the caps break in until I make my decision on the sound quality.
 In the front you can see the old caps on the right side. Still got some of the ELNA Silmic II left as you can see. Always good to have some spare parts.
  
 About the sound difference: I definitely recommend changing the caps. They make a huge difference. The volume is now through the roof. I did notice and increase in the mids and lows. They also improved the soundstage. I never thought changing caps would make that much of a difference. 
  
 I also replaced the really bad Lelon main power caps with Panasonic FR 3300µF 25V caps. They also were bigger than the old ones. I didn't think that I could fit them all inside the case but I managed to do it. Everything is in place and the T1 still works.
  
 Soundwise they don't make any change at all. But Lelon is famous for making very bad quality caps. No harm in changing them.
  

  
 Many thanks to CoiL for suggesting the caps and more help!


----------



## isendono

as for those ecc85 that have distorted sound , I have one of them as well. When I changed the PC volume output from 100% to 50% , the distortion is gone. :u


----------



## HeavenNotes

Quote: 





heavennotes said:


> Hello all
> 
> I found a gem that is not listed here.  ADZAM E 288 CC  The best of all, period.   It is a bigger tube.  Pictures soon.


 
  
 Enjoy!


----------



## babyhunz

rwpritchett said:


> babyhunz: what headphones were you using for your comparison?


 
  
 Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro 250 ohm. MacBook Pro -> iTunes -> BitPerfect -> Aune T1 -> DT 990. Audio files were mentioned in the review. Mostly ALAC files, some 24 bit 88.2 files too.


----------



## abhinit90

I can't seem to find any good deals on tubes, and everyone seems to find a deal. Can someone PM me a deal on a tube that they don't want. I prefer PM as public posts seem to be in the "limelight" and snatched by someone else
  
 Much appreciated.
  
 Confused between a GE 6aq8 and a GE 6gm8, but some people think others are better. Prefer to buy the best vfm tube within 30usd. Listen to all genres


----------



## toysareforboys

abhinit90 said:


> I can't seem to find any good deals on tubes


 

 Under $13 shipped? http://www.ebay.com/itm/201019380488
  
 -Jamie M.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Here is a picture of my Aune T1 capacitors all in place.  The entire unit is not together yet, but you can see all the caps are in place.  The on/off switch and the USB jack aren't even soldered in yet, I had to desolder them due having trouble getting the PCB back in (I don't recommend removing it due to all the things that must slide in perfect). 
  
 (The caps I posted for sale are in the pic below, right beside the Nichicon FW large primaries)


----------



## toysareforboys

Ohhhhhhh I just got the John Mayer: Where the Light Is bluray and it contains a PCM uncompressed 24bit/96khz stereo audio track!!! 
  
 So crazy.
  
 -Jamie M.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Yep, the source of the material you are listening to really matters for really experiencing everything fully.  I own around 20 or so concert/music related Blu-Rays some of my favorites are Eric Clapton Crossroads 2013 (LPCM 2.0), Joe Bonamassa An Acoustic Evening at the Vienna Opera House (LPCM 2.0), Joe Bonamassa Hammersmith Apollo (LPCM 2.0)
  
 This is all at 48KHz/24bits


----------



## mikoss

Bought the Aune T1 a couple of weeks ago and I'm loving it... sounds great with HD 650's. I've read some people mention it works well with K 702's as well, but for now I am enjoying my audio bliss with the 'stock' 6922EH. (Perhaps audio ignorance as well  )
  
 Managed to find some great tubes on ebay in the last couple of days thanks to some amazing members posting here with their recommendations. Thanks! For anyone like me who is interested in finding tubes, I'd recommend adding a bunch of the sellers people have posted from on here. They found the tubes they were looking for using them, so chances are you will as well. Good luck!


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Depending on how adventurous you are, you can make the inside of your Aune T1 look like mine above


----------



## babyhunz

Did anyone take out the white LED lighting under the tube on the Aune T1? It's too distracting. I'm not adventurous enough to do it yet unless someone here has, and can comment on the process.


----------



## rwpritchett

I was thinking of coloring the LED with an orange sharpie to give it a Woo firefly look. Anyone try this idea?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

People have replaced the LED under there with red or orange LED or you can just remove it from the circuit.  All you have to do is cut off two leads I would assume, preferably close to the PCB and you may have to short it.


----------



## JoshuaA

Seems like a fun hack. Anyone know the particular LED bulb to buy on eBay or The Source?


----------



## rjelly21

So I had a quick question.  I've had my T1 for a few weeks now and while I loved the stock 6922EH tube, I decided I'd try to roll in a new tube to see what kind of difference it would make.  After doing some research on the different tubes that would fit my little T1, I decided to go with the Genalex Gold Lion e88cc tube.  I ordered it from Amazon and it arrived a few days ago.  I took the stock tube out and put in the Genalex tube and the first thing I noticed was that it did not glow like the stock tube did.  Didn't really think anything of it at first, but then when I went to actually listen to the new tube it was suddenly really quiet, like 50-75% quieter than the stock tube.  I had to put the gain on the T1 all the way up and I have the volume knob at like 80% and it seems just about loud enough. Is this normal, or did I get a dud tube?  Thanks for any help!


----------



## isendono

rjelly21 said:


> I had to put the gain on the T1 all the way up and I have the volume knob at like 80% and it seems just about loud enough. Is this normal, or did I get a dud tube?  Thanks for any help!


 
 prolly a dud.


----------



## Tushma

Im looking to buy this T1 and connect it to my older hp compaq nc6120 laptop with foobar on it. NAS with mostly 16/44 flacs would be popcorns hour c-200 HDD. Amp is Nad c316bee with Quad 11l speakers. Will it be problem to use max 5m usb cable, cause laptop is distant from amp? Thnx in advance!


----------



## rwpritchett

@ rjelly21: I just received a Genelex Gold Lion myself and it definitely glows, and the gain is equal to the 6922EH. You've got a bad tube.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

USB cables can be up to 15-20ft without a booster I believe, so yes 5m should be fine.
  
  


> The USB specification limits the length of a cable between USB 2.0 devices to *5 meters* (or about *16 feet*) and for USB 1.0 the limit is *3 meters* (which is about 10 feet.) This means you can't just connect a bunch of extension cables together and run them *30 feet* to another room.


----------



## ElBartoME

I did a little mod for my T1. It's really easy and it looks a lot better now. Instead of changing the LED I took a little bit of plastic and cut it so that it fits inside the circular spot from the tube socket. I took a red permanent marker and painted it red. Changing the LED is really difficult because it sits deep inside the tube socket.
  
 Here is the result:
  


  
 The pictures really don't to it justice. It looks a lot better in person. Definitely more red.


----------



## JoshuaA

Lol, I did the same without seeing your post first. If you use a good hole punch, the punchout size is the exact fit for a pseudo lens cover. 
 Try high grade thick plastic that won't melt under heat (mine's just from an orange bug spray lid)
  

  
 BTW, I did take it apart and try to get at the LED from the other end, it's more effort than it's cosmetic worth IMHO.


----------



## ElBartoME

joshuaa said:


> Lol, I did the same without seeing your post first. If you use a good hole punch, the punchout size is the exact fit for a pseudo lens cover.
> Try high grade thick plastic that won't melt under heat (mine's just from an orange bug spray lid)


 
  
 I did use a plastic piece that is 1mm thick. I used my Aune for several hours and the piece of plastic is still in the same shape as before. 
 I just used some scissors to shape the piece of plastic. Somehow I managed to make a perfect fit. It stays in there if I want it or not.
  
 I have to open my Aune soon because I ordered some caps. Should be here in the next week. I'm excited.


----------



## JoshuaA

Actually, after the first sentence, my post was directed at others who might want to try this. You did great!
  
 The best effect would be to color the LED or replace it with a dark orange LED for that "fireflies" look, as this little lens cover hack still leaves a warm white light coming through the white plastic pin holder.


----------



## babyhunz

Hmm what about using black electrical tape, cut into a circular shape and taping it over the center LED?


----------



## ElBartoME

heavennotes said:


> Hello all
> 
> I found a gem that is not listed here.  ADZAM E 288 CC  The best of all, period.   It is a bigger tube.  Pictures soon.


 
  
 Based on your experience and the fact that other people use tubes with a heater current up to 800mA without any damages on the Aune T1 I bought myself a Valvo E288CC for a very reasonable price of €35. They go for much higher prices on eBay. I'm excited. Should be here in the next few days. I'll add it to my review post.


----------



## HeavenNotes

elbartome said:


> Based on your experience and the fact that other people use tubes with a heater current up to 800mA without any damages on the Aune T1 I bought myself a Valvo E288CC for a very reasonable price of €35. They go for much higher prices on eBay. I'm excited. Should be here in the next few days. I'll add it to my review post.




Nice!!! Good luck!!!


----------



## 4 cm

penmarker said:


> I've just gotten this DAC+Amp two days ago, and unlike the rest of the internets I've gotten a defective unit. I actually bought it from another forummer in a local forum.
> 
> The DAC unit has a channel imbalance and the left channel louder than the right channel. Switching modes between DAC+Amp, Amp alone, and DAC alone, I found out that the DAC part of it is the defective one.
> 
> ...


 
  
 I've also found that my unit has channel imbalance (although apparently not nearly as noticeable as yours given the difference in your numbers!).
  
 I also noticed that I get random crackling regardless of whether I have music playing.  Wiggling the tube tends to change for better or worse but it goes away after a bit.  I tried to troubleshoot by getting a new tube off eBay and also getting a socket protector.  It's definitely improved but it's not 100%.  Any thoughts?


----------



## dana789

Sorry if this ground has been covered already, but I think the ability to run a usb DAC like the T1 from my phone is very cool! A brand new phone pushing a 50 year-old vacuum tube!
  
 I have an LG G2 phone running android 4.2.2. I just hooked it up my T1, and it simply worked! I had read an earlier post that said the usb DACs worked on the G2 if you loaded a particular ROM, but apparently that is not needed. I had no stomach for diddling with my phone just to get the DAC working (rooting or loading a ROM). The only thing you need is the right kind of usb cable (usb micro male to USB B as usual). My understanding is that this should hold for any phone or tablet with the same or later version of android.
  
 I'm running Poweramp now (one of the apps that many think sounds much better than the default music app on the G2). I also have run Neutron but it seems to have some problems with skipping both using the normal phone analog output and the T1 through the usb port.
  
 I'm not sure exactly how android transfers data to the T1, I know there are some pitfalls there. I had to futz with my Ubuntu system a bit to get some of the intervening layers out of the way. But it sounds fine so far.
  
 The G2 has excellent battery capacity, so I don't hesitate to use it for playing music or any other non-phone uses. I've never run out of juice by the end of the day, so I suspect I won't have a problem with not being able to charge and play music at the same time. Not sure if that will hold with lots of music through the usb DAC, i'll post an update when I get some experience with it.  Since the T1 is externally powered, I don't anticipate a problem. Right now the battery is at 48% and the estimated time remaining is over 19.5 hrs with music playing.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

4 cm said:


> I've also found that my unit has channel imbalance (although apparently not nearly as noticeable as yours given the difference in your numbers!).
> 
> I also noticed that I get random crackling regardless of whether I have music playing.  Wiggling the tube tends to change for better or worse but it goes away after a bit.  I tried to troubleshoot by getting a new tube off eBay and also getting a socket protector.  It's definitely improved but it's not 100%.  Any thoughts?


 
  
 I thought I had channel imbalance too, that was until I checked the gain settings on the bottom of the unit.  The left was set louder than the right.. 
  
 Have yall checked that?


----------



## feanorean

Hi,
  
 How much of a "tubey" sound does the Aune actually have? I've got a pair of DT880's (250 Ohm) hooked up to an O2/ODAC Combo but feeling recently that it's a little too clinical and cold. Thinking of getting a tube amp to warm up the sound, will the Aune do this for me? Or is there a better option around $200-$300?
  
 Cheers,
 F.


----------



## Rem0o

feanorean said:


> Hi,
> 
> How much of a "tubey" sound does the Aune actually have? I've got a pair of DT880's (250 Ohm) hooked up to an O2/ODAC Combo but feeling recently that it's a little too clinical and cold. Thinking of getting a tube amp to warm up the sound, will the Aune do this for me? Or is there a better option around $200-$300?
> 
> ...


 
 Sell off your DT880 and HD600/650 will do the trick for you if you want a warmer sound. Investing money on a headphone you fundamentally don't like won't pay off in the end, you can trust me on that one.  From my experience, good amplification/source only makes a headphone better at what it's already good at, but it won't changes its nature.


----------



## spacequeen7

feanorean said:


> Hi,
> 
> How much of a "tubey" sound does the Aune actually have? I've got a pair of DT880's (250 Ohm) hooked up to an O2/ODAC Combo but feeling recently that it's a little too clinical and cold. Thinking of getting a tube amp to warm up the sound, will the Aune do this for me? Or is there a better option around $200-$300?
> 
> ...


 
 Wait until you receive your T1 ..I have same cans and love them with  Aune ,this are my reference cans when analyzing  tubes and going in to micro-detail


----------



## BaTou069

dana789 said:


> Sorry if this ground has been covered already, but I think the ability to run a usb DAC like the T1 from my phone is very cool! A brand new phone pushing a 50 year-old vacuum tube!
> 
> I have an LG G2 phone running android 4.2.2. I just hooked it up my T1, and it simply worked! I had read an earlier post that said the usb DACs worked on the G2 if you loaded a particular ROM, but apparently that is not needed. I had no stomach for diddling with my phone just to get the DAC working (rooting or loading a ROM). The only thing you need is the right kind of usb cable (usb micro male to USB B as usual). My understanding is that this should hold for any phone or tablet with the same or later version of android.
> 
> ...


 
 +1
 same phone here. I changed to Carbon ROM since its the only one that has USB out AFAIK, this was true for the FiiO E18
 When I got the Aune, it worked also very good  Good combination
  
  


feanorean said:


> Hi,
> 
> How much of a "tubey" sound does the Aune actually have? I've got a pair of DT880's (250 Ohm) hooked up to an O2/ODAC Combo but feeling recently that it's a little too clinical and cold. Thinking of getting a tube amp to warm up the sound, will the Aune do this for me? Or is there a better option around $200-$300?
> 
> ...


 
 880 pro or premium?


----------



## newton2105

Hi guys,
  
 Trying to decide between this and a Hifiman EF2-A as a little desktop dac/amp set up for my HE-400s.  Tube DAC +Amp vs Tube Amp + DAC.  Both are about in the range I want to spend.
  
 I can see a few in this thread have or had the 400s and was wondering what impressions you had on how the T1 synergizes with the 400s.  And also what particular tubes work well.
  
 Also, would you say in your experience that the T1 is a quality product and reliable?
  
 Thanks in advance.


----------



## JoshuaA

Would a JDS02 ODAC be a good compliment to my AuneT1 since it is a neutral reference amp/dac, for those times I want my HPs unadulterated?


----------



## abhinit90

ncsuzoso said:


> I thought I had channel imbalance too, that was until I checked the gain settings on the bottom of the unit.  The left was set louder than the right..
> 
> Have yall checked that?


 
 The gain is the same for both channel AFAIK


----------



## MrEleventy

joshuaa said:


> Would a JDS02 ODAC be a good compliment to my AuneT1 since it is a neutral reference amp/dac, for those times I want my HPs unadulterated?


Yes, it would. And actually, I prefer the T1 + O2 better than just straight T1 so you can combo those two together as well.


----------



## JoshuaA

Awesome, you mean you're only using the T1 as a DAC and the 02 as the amp? Whereby you can alternate tubing with the T1 (02 off), or straight amping with the 02?
  
 If so, excuse the noob question, how are they connected?
 (I currently have my T1 usb'd to my Mac mini)
  
 I'm thinking I can just get away with the 02 (no ODAC, cheaper), since both units, the T1 and the 02, will always be in the same spot.


----------



## MrEleventy

joshuaa said:


> Awesome, you mean you're only using the T1 as a DAC and the 02 as the amp? Whereby you can alternate tubing with the T1 (02 off), and straight amping with the 02?
> 
> If so, excuse the noob question, how are they connected?
> (I currently have my T1 usb'd to my Mac mini)
> ...


Yeah, that was my primary setup at one point. It's still my primary DAC to this day (It'll be a 1 year in on the 14th.). It's feeding my Darkvoice 336 amp. I had it hooked up with a 3.5mm to RCA that I made but you can easily pick one up from just about anywhere. T1 using RCA out into O2 source in.


----------



## mikoss

Anyone care to comment on their favourite tube with the Aune T1?  So far I've tried the stock 6922EH which I quite enjoy. Also, a Philips JAN green labelled 6922, and a Sovtek 6922 (which I read the EH replaced... although I've think so far the EH sounds superior). I haven't had enough time with the Philips or Sovtek to form impressions yet... the quick 30 minute listen I've given the Philips JAN, I'd say it is decent for sure.
  
 Patiently waiting on ebay shipments of:
- 1970 NOS A-Frame Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 ECC88
 - NOS GE "Smoked" 6DJ8 ECC88
 - Philips Miniwatt Holland White label SQ gold pin 7308 E188CC
 - Amperex Holland White label PQ gold pin 7308 E188CC
  
 Anyway, I'm sure all of the tubes will sound great... I really do love the sound from the Aune, compared to non-tube amps I've owned previously.
  
 I have read a few tube reviews/impressions on here and wanted to ask for comments about opinions on tube 'break in' or opening up of sound. Personally, my impression of the 6922EH after 20 hours of listening was certainly different than my original impressions of the tube. I am open to comments/criticism of break in, just wanted to know what everyone found themselves. From an electrical/circuit standpoint, I agree that tube quality will probably only diminish over time... but it did seem that the sound quality improved after 20 hours or so of listening time for myself. Just my opinion... maybe it's a matter of ears/brain adjusting to the nuances.


----------



## spacequeen7

^ you should be pretty satisfied with what you posted ..might want to add Mullard Blackburn (shield logo)


----------



## newton2105

I'm probably going to pull the trigger on this amp. Anybody have thoughts on a good tube for the he-400?


----------



## mikoss

Ahh yeah, spacequeen... heard the Mullard's can sound very sweet. I like listening to a lot of vocals/ chilled stuff and just love the sound of acoustic guitar with HD650's. (I also found the volume is fine with the dips set at 0db).


----------



## RTTO

Update on Sovtek 6H30Pi
 Initially it shows slight improvement over the stock 6922EH. I am not very impressed.
 After 2 weeks of about 30 hours of listening, I start swapping back and forth between the 2 tubes again. This time, the difference is very significant.
  
 - The new tube has much more micro detail overall.
 - Upper treble has less glare (Q701)
 - Bottom end not much difference
  
 So far, do not notice any power or heat related issue.
 Also, seemed like the tube is more efficient. I have to dial back the volume from 1 o'clock to 11.
  
 6922EH is a very good sounding tube. 6H30Pi to me is definitely superior. And it cost me $25.


----------



## spacequeen7

mikoss said:


> Ahh yeah, spacequeen... heard the Mullard's can sound very sweet. I like listening to a lot of vocals/ chilled stuff and just love the sound of acoustic guitar with HD650's. (I also found the volume is fine with the dips set at 0db).


 
 have you try 650s  with 10DB or 16DB setting ..I should be getting a pair of HD650s tomorrow (my HE400 took a "vacation" ) 
 P.S. Mullards are my favorite tubes


----------



## mikoss

spacequeen7 said:


> have you try 650s  with 10DB or 16DB setting ..I should be getting a pair of HD650s tomorrow (my HE400 took a "vacation" )
> P.S. Mullards are my favorite tubes


 
 I'll have to try setting the dips for 10db or 16db... I remember reading some people mentioned it would sound best with the dips set low, as long as the volume was good. Listening now at 10db and it sounds great still.
  
 Also, thanks for the review on the Sovtek RTTO.


----------



## spacequeen7

I wouldn't go lower then 10 or 16DB with 650s


----------



## diaBoliQu3

10db sound weird with my HD600. So, 16db to go. I did posted my impression but a very poor writing.


----------



## ElBartoME

Just got my ELNA SILMIC II. I'm picking up Panasic FR capacitors tomorrow and then I'm going to change the caps inside my Aune T1. I hope I'm not going to break it.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Sorry to interrupt any conversations, but I'm looking for some advice on the Aune T1 and headphone amps in general.
  
 I noticed in the opening post that the OP was using the RCA outs to run his powered speakers as well as hooking his headphones up to the headphone out on the T1. Does this benefit the sound of the speakers at all? While doing a little more searching I read from another user here that using a headphone amp to 'power' bookshelf speakers is pointless. I can see why, but is there a way to improve the sound of headphones as well as speakers in one small, attractive and affordable package?
  
 I listen to music mostly on my computer in digital formats and I'm hoping to pick up a new set of headphones to pair with my M-Audio AV40's. I'm currently using the onboard audio chip on my motherboard. The sound is fine but I'd like to upgrade if it's possible. I'd rather an external unit than add anything inside the PC like a dedicated sound card. Any advice on this?

 The headphones I'm considering are the NAD VISO HP50, Beyerdynamic DT 770 80ohms, AKG K545, Audio Technica ATH-A900X, Sennheiser Momentum and PSB M4U1.


----------



## ElBartoME

Allright, I couldn't wait. I just switched the caps I had the replacement for. The rest will have to wait until tomorrow.
  
 Here are some pictures of the process.
  

 I changed the headphone coupling caps first (right ones). ELNA Silmic II 47µF 50V. You have to bend them like that otherwise there is no other way to fit them in there. The old ones are ridiculously tiny.
  

 Here are the rail voltage caps. ELNA Silmic II 470µF 25V. And they are huuuge. Good luck fitting them insde the case. I had to bend them like that .
  

  
 The secondary supply caps were really tricky. I wanted to close the case so I had to improvise. I took some wire and twisted them like in the picture. This is important for reducing the inductance of the wire. I positioned the caps on the right side of the case where there is a little bit more room. Then I fixed everything with tape. Don't forget to fix the caps inside the case too. I used tape for that too. But you can't see it in this picture.
  
 The main supply caps are still the old ones. I'll change them tomorrow if I got my new ones.
  

  
 Puhh..and it still does turn on! I need to let the caps break in until I make my decision on the sound quality.
 In the front you can see the old caps on the right side. Still got some of the ELNA Silmic II left as you can see. Always good to have some spare parts.
  
 Many thanks to CoiL for suggesting the caps and more help!
  
 EDIT: Holy crap. The volume with the new caps is much higher now than before. I'm sure I couldn't go that high before and I didn't change the gain setting accidentaly while changing the caps. Wow!


----------



## ElBartoME

angrygoldfish said:


> Sorry to interrupt any conversations, but I'm looking for some advice on the Aune T1 and headphone amps in general.
> 
> I noticed in the opening post that the OP was using the RCA outs to run his powered speakers as well as hooking his headphones up to the headphone out on the T1. Does this benefit the sound of the speakers at all? While doing a little more searching I read from another user here that using a headphone amp to 'power' bookshelf speakers is pointless. I can see why, but is there a way to improve the sound of headphones as well as speakers in one small, attractive and affordable package?
> 
> ...


 
 The Aune has far too little power to drive normal speakers without any amplifier. You need a power amp for that. You then can connect your power amp to the T1 using the RCA outs on the back. I can't really give any recommendation on this topic because I solely use headphones.
  
 I personally use Beyerdynamic DT 770 80Ohms that I bought a while ago and I love it. Everything from the bass to the highs are good enough for me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Also it depends on what tube you are going to use in the Aune. I have some tubes that will kill you with the highs. Then there are other tubes that are a perfect mix of everything. You have to try it for yourself.
  
 I bought the Aune T1 because my computer was not powerful enough to drive the DT 770 to its full potential. Best decision I ever made. I can't stop listening to music anymore.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

elbartome said:


> The Aune has far too little power to drive normal speakers without any amplifier. You need a power amp for that. You then can connect your power amp to the T1 using the RCA outs on the back. I can't really give any recommendation on this topic because I solely use headphones.
> 
> I personally use Beyerdynamic DT 770 80Ohms that I bought a while ago and I love it. Everything from the bass to the highs are good enough for me.
> 
> ...


 
  
 The M-Audio speakers are already powered—well, the right one is powered—and are connected via the RCA left and out outputs to my PC.
  
 My motherboard says it can power up 600 ohm headphones, but I don't know what the wattage is to power the sensitivity, or lack thereof, and efficiency, or lack thereof, of the 250ohm DT 770's, or even the 600 ohm versions.
  
 For lower impedance headphones, such as 32ohms, although a headphone amp won't be necessary even for portable devices, would it improve the sound?


----------



## ElBartoME

angrygoldfish said:


> The M-Audio speakers are already powered—well, the right one is powered—and are connected via the RCA left and out outputs to my PC.
> 
> My motherboard says it can power up 600 ohm headphones, but I don't know what the wattage is to power the sensitivity, or lack thereof, and efficiency, or lack thereof, of the 250ohm DT 770's, or even the 600 ohm versions.
> 
> For lower impedance headphones, such as 32ohms, although a headphone amp won't be necessary even for portable devices, would it improve the sound?


 
  
 I think it will improve the sound. The DAC in the Aune is just superb. The DACs on the mainboards I had were always a little shallow and they also had a lot of noise from the EMI inside the case. Getting an external DAC is always better in my opinion. But be careful with the gain setting and low impedance headphones. It will blow your headphone and your head too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I'm also a big sucker for tubes and tube rolling is just so much fun. So take my opinion with a grain of salt. 
  
 I mostly used my speakers before but since getting the Aune I really don't feel the desire to use them. I did not connect them to the Aune. Maybe I'll give it a try. But my speakers are so old and beaten up I don't think it will make a huge difference.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Yeah, I'm a sucker for tubes as well. I use tube amplifiers as a guitarist, but much bigger, louder ones. One of my amps was designed to have its preamp tubes swapped with other variations of the same thing, but it doesn't change the sound enough to warrant worrying about it.
  
 What I could do might be considered a bit extreme, but it makes sense to me:

 First pick up the headphones. If I go with the DT 770 80 ohm headphones, I'll need the Aune T1 or equivalent pretty much straight away. But I could afford it because the Beyerdynamics are not expensive. If I go with the AKG's or NAD's, I can use my onboard audio for a while as I recoup my losses. Then I can invest in the Aune T1 and power my headphones with them, more as a signal enhancer than a poweramp. Then I can buy a Asus Xonar Essence ST and install it in my computer and use it to drive my speakers. I think that would be a sweet set-up.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

What you need in order to use them with speakers is a AV Receiver that has pre-amp inputs.  Mine has it (Yamaha RX-V863), but I have never bothered trying it.


----------



## ElBartoME

Allright, just got my Valvo E288CC.
  

  
 You can read the review in my review post: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4770#post_10326536
  
 You can also read about changing the caps in the T1 and also what effect this does!


----------



## spacequeen7

elbartome said:


> Allright, just got my Valvo E288CC.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 I think it's more about the sound then anything else ..no?


----------



## ElBartoME

spacequeen7 said:


> I think it's more about the sound then anything else ..no?


 
 Well, the tube also does look nice!


----------



## spacequeen7

"well" since you are in to Valvo so much ..try this 
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valvo-E88CC-OldStock-CCa-E88CC-6DJ8-6922-CV2492-CV2493-CV5358-CV5472-/171265077495?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item27e031b0f7


----------



## ElBartoME

spacequeen7 said:


> "well" since you are in to Valvo so much ..try this
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valvo-E88CC-OldStock-CCa-E88CC-6DJ8-6922-CV2492-CV2493-CV5358-CV5472-/171265077495?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item27e031b0f7


 
  
 I already have my eyes on red Valvo E88CC but thanks for the link!


----------



## BaTou069

I just hooked up my new Shure SE846 to the Aune T1 with the stock 6922EH Electro Harmonix tube, and although aunes output impedance is a high 5 ohm and the iem has only 9 ohm impedance, I cant complain. Loving it!
  
 Now I'm looking to upgrade the tubes....caps some other time when I actually have more time...
  
 Do you have a review about these valvo tubes? They look nice!
  
 Thx


----------



## HeavenNotes

elbartome said:


> Allright, just got my Valvo E288CC.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Welcome to the club!!!


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Guys I might be selling my Aune T1 due to financial problems and I did a mod on my ZXR that creates sound almost as good.
  
  

  
  
  
 The Aune T1 has got $40 worth of caps in it and a $60 tube (plus a back up RCA made Amperex), but I'd sell it for $260.  If anyone is really interested let me know.  Check out the pictures for this thread and you can see most of my pictures, but here are a few:
  

  

  

  

  
  
 I'm still waiting on four SILMIC II caps to get here, so I'd probably wait to get that first and take out those two Cerafines.


----------



## filler

Does anybody know about a good carrying case for the Aune?
 I'm traveling quite a lot and want to carry the amp with me.
 Would love some ebay links.


----------



## rwpritchett

A camera case would probably be your best bet. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Case-Logic-SLMC-200-Compact-Systems/dp/B004OR14HI


----------



## AngryGoldfish

batou069 said:


> I just hooked up my new Shure SE846 to the Aune T1 with the stock 6922EH Electro Harmonix tube, and although aunes output impedance is a high 5 ohm and the iem has only 9 ohm impedance, I cant complain. Loving it!
> 
> Now I'm looking to upgrade the tubes....caps some other time when I actually have more time...
> 
> ...


 
  
 Isn't that quite a high impedance output for a headphone amp?


----------



## rwpritchett

I'm looking for the next tube to roll. I'm surprised nobody on here, or really any other forum, has tried out the new production Telefunken ECC88-TK Black Diamond series tubes. Has anyone tried these in the Aune T1 yet? Surely they aren't going to measure up to the uber-desirable NOS Telefunken tubes, but each tube is cryo treated and burned-in before packaging and the price isn't too bad. I think they're made by a partnership with JJ Tubes.



http://www.telefunken-elektroakustik.com/products/tubes/black-diamond-tubes/e88cc-tk.php

Anyone know about these tubes?


----------



## guy3134

guys, how do you look up for the aune?, should i turn it off or let it go for 24\7?
 my 6 month aune started to go insane with distortion and left channel had 50% lower volume.
  
 also any idea where can i find these tubes? Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8, Amperex 6DJ8, Siemens PCC88/7DJ8, Siemens PCC189.


----------



## copajohn

elbartome said:


> I think it will improve the sound. The DAC in the Aune is just superb. The DACs on the mainboards I had were always a little shallow and they also had a lot of noise from the EMI inside the case. Getting an external DAC is always better in my opinion. But be careful with the gain setting and low impedance headphones. It will blow your headphone and your head too.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi - 
  
 I am finding this to be the case with me.  Instead of listening to the Martin Logan Aerius speakers, I am finding myself more and more using the Grado RS1's with the Aune.  The tube is the Amperex 6922 PQ While Label.  Incredibly warm sound - enough in fact to make me wonder just how long I'm gonna keep the MLs.  We'll see.  Suspect that I could sell them and really get a really special amp for the Aune...


----------



## ElBartoME

copajohn said:


> Hi -
> 
> I am finding this to be the case with me.  Instead of listening to the Martin Logan Aerius speakers, I am finding myself more and more using the Grado RS1's with the Aune.  The tube is the Amperex 6922 PQ While Label.  Incredibly warm sound - enough in fact to make me wonder just how long I'm gonna keep the MLs.  We'll see.  Suspect that I could sell them and really get a really special amp for the Aune...


 
 I only have old Logitech speakers that doesn't really work anymore. Sometimes they work and sometimes not. You have to jiggle the wires around...I thought why not invest in some good headphone equipment than rather buy new speakers.
  
 Since I bought the new hardware I'm listening to music constantly. This wasn't the case before. I also noticed how bad the quality of my sound library was. More 128kbps MP3s than I thought, haha. 
  
 I really love hearing every detail of the music and with headphones this is possible without disturbing my neighbours.
  
 Speaking of tubes: I think I'm gonna use the Valvo E288CC for now. After using it for one day it really opened up and sounds amazing. If it dies I'll maybe buy another one or I will go back to my Valvo E188CC I now have lying around.


----------



## newton2105

I'm probably going to pull the trigger on these once I've finished moving to Florida in a couple weeks. 

For those who've owned these a while, how has the quality and performance been for you overall? 

I would like to get this but am concerned about some of the reviews elsewhere that mention defects and poor quality control. 

Any feedback would be most appreciated.


----------



## dana789

While the size of this thread can be a bit daunting, you should look back through it.
  
 Overall, I think you'll find that most folks are very pleased with the T1 and consider it a worthy unit for tube rolling. For many of us trading up from less capable sources, the T1 has been a bit of a revelation about how much better a good source can sound compared to portable sources like iPods, etc.
  
 There have been some complaints about the quality of some components like the capacitors and some users have gone to great lengths to replace them. That's a bit subtle for my tastes. I have no complaints about workmanship, but I have not opened mine.


----------



## newton2105

dana789 said:


> While the size of this thread can be a bit daunting, you should look back through it.
> 
> Overall, I think you'll find that most folks are very pleased with the T1 and consider it a worthy unit for tube rolling. For many of us trading up from less capable sources, the T1 has been a bit of a revelation about how much better a good source can sound compared to portable sources like iPods, etc.
> 
> There have been some complaints about the quality of some components like the capacitors and some users have gone to great lengths to replace them. That's a bit subtle for my tastes. I have no complaints about workmanship, but I have not opened mine.


 
  
 I think I've probably read about 40 pages or so, here or there.  It's tough to get that much time since I'm working and in the midst of moving to another state.
  
 CoiL, a T1 owner on here, was nice enough to PM with me back and forth the last couple hours with some very helpful info.  
  
 It's tough to decide as the Schiit stack is out there for a similar price, is made in USA, and is supposedly excellent quality.


----------



## dana789

newton2105 said:


> I think I've probably read about 40 pages or so, here or there.  It's tough to get that much time since I'm working and in the midst of moving to another state.
> 
> CoiL, a T1 owner on here, was nice enough to PM with me back and forth the last couple hours with some very helpful info.
> 
> It's tough to decide as the Schiit stack is out there for a similar price, is made in USA, and is supposedly excellent quality.


 

 If you buy the Schitt stack you'll have a great setup, but that's it. If you buy the Aune T1, you can fiddle forever and search the globe for some obscure magic tube. In my view, that's the difference. I'm sure I would be very happy listening to either. To fiddle or not to fiddle, that's the question.


----------



## abhinit90

newton2105 said:


> I think I've probably read about 40 pages or so, here or there.  It's tough to get that much time since I'm working and in the midst of moving to another state.
> 
> CoiL, a T1 owner on here, was nice enough to PM with me back and forth the last couple hours with some very helpful info.
> 
> It's tough to decide as the Schiit stack is out there for a similar price, is made in USA, and is supposedly excellent quality.


 

 Or maybe get the best of both worlds?
  
 I have an Aune T1 and a Schiit Vali


----------



## HangzhouHIFI

So I took the plunge. I bought the Aune T1 to go with my K450s while I decide on whether to purchase the HD650s or the He-400s. The perk of living in China is I got the upgraded version for $130 shipped. Awesome.
  
 My question is simple, and a completely newbie question I know, but as the T1 is an amp and a DAC, will I be able to use it solely as a DAC if I decide to upgrade amps in the future?
  
 I've heard people rave about the DAC in it, comparing it favorably with the Modi and almost any other DAC in the sub $250 range, and I know the amp is pretty stellar, but I've been eyeing a pair of HD650s together with a Bottlehead Crack at some point in the future. So if I buy the Crack to go with the He-400s/HD-650s, will I be able to bypass the amp on the T1 and use it just as a DAC.
  
 Thanks. This is my first post on a new board in a long time, thought I was done picking up hobbies that will cost me an arm and a leg.


----------



## Rem0o

Yup, there are some RCA outputs at the back, which only use the DAC section.


----------



## dana789

hangzhouhifi said:


> So I took the plunge. I bought the Aune T1 to go with my K450s while I decide on whether to purchase the HD650s or the He-400s. The perk of living in China is I got the upgraded version for $130 shipped. Awesome.
> 
> My question is simple, and a completely newbie question I know, but as the T1 is an amp and a DAC, will I be able to use it solely as a DAC if I decide to upgrade amps in the future?
> 
> ...


 

 The T1 has RCA outputs from the DAC, so you can go right from the DAC to an external amp. I never tried it, but I understand that numerous contributors to this thread use it in that way.


----------



## abhinit90

So I have a doubt.
  
 Since the DAC is a solid state one with a tube buffer. Wouldn't the signal be more "pure" if somehow the tube stage was bypassed? So tubes are only acting as an equalizer?
  
 So tubes can't add anything, no more soundstage, no more clarity. Just might promote/ recess some frequencies?
  
 Am I right?


----------



## spacequeen7

hangzhouhifi said:


> So I took the plunge. I bought the Aune T1 to go with my K450s while I decide on whether to purchase the HD650s or the He-400s. The perk of living in China is I got the upgraded version for $130 shipped. Awesome.
> 
> My question is simple, and a completely newbie question I know, but as the T1 is an amp and a DAC, will I be able to use it solely as a DAC if I decide to upgrade amps in the future?
> 
> ...


 
 I have Aune T1 connected to Crack and it's sweet combo ,yes you can use DAC part of Aune via RCA -in this case you will have a benefit of using  three tubes (one on Aune and two more on Crack ),the amp on Aune works if you have your headphones connected  to Aune T1,as for headphones 400s and 650s are very good choice all tho I would recommend HD650 
  


> Originally Posted by *abhinit90* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> So I have a doubt.
> 
> ...


 
 no you will still use the tube ,the only thing that's bypassed will be the amp


----------



## abhinit90

spacequeen7 said:


> I have Aune T1 connected to Crack and it's sweet combo ,yes you can use DAC part of Aune via RCA -in this case you will have a benefit of using  three tubes (one on Aune and two more on Crack ),the amp on Aune works if you have your headphones connected  to Aune T1,as for headphones 400s and 650s are very good choice all tho I would recommend HD650
> 
> no you will still use the tube ,the only thing that's bypassed will be the amp


 
 I think I wasn't able to clearly illustrate my point. Isn't the tube buffer in T1 more of a gimmick?


----------



## Rem0o

abhinit90 said:


> I think I wasn't able to clearly illustrate my point. Isn't the tube buffer in T1 more of a gimmick?


 
 Kinda. A fun gimmick for some, but still a gimmick for me.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

newton2105 said:


> I think I've probably read about 40 pages or so, here or there.  It's tough to get that much time since I'm working and in the midst of moving to another state.
> 
> CoiL, a T1 owner on here, was nice enough to PM with me back and forth the last couple hours with some very helpful info.
> 
> It's tough to decide as the Schiit stack is out there for a similar price, is made in USA, and is supposedly excellent quality.


 
  
 Doesn't the T1 have a solid state amplifier? Which means you can pair the tube DAC of the T1 with a 'better' (read: dedicated) amplifier from Schiit. That probably won't improve the sound much, but it might be a fun experience and not a huge investment at all. It'll be a pretty dope setup.


----------



## pngwn

Isn't tube rolling pointless unless you use the RCA output on the T1? Otherwise, you're just feeding the signal through to the amp and bypassing the tube? Or am I misunderstanding? I'm using the RCA outs and know for a fact that tube rolling has effects, but I've been just a bit confused as some people do use it without the RCA out?


----------



## spacequeen7

rem0o said:


> Kinda. A fun gimmick for some, but still a gimmick for me.


 
 in what way is it "gimmick" ?..please explain


----------



## abhinit90

pngwn said:


> Isn't tube rolling pointless unless you use the RCA output on the T1? Otherwise, you're just feeding the signal through to the amp and bypassing the tube? Or am I misunderstanding? I'm using the RCA outs and know for a fact that tube rolling has effects, but I've been just a bit confused as some people do use it without the RCA out?


 
 Nope, the chain goes input -> DAC -> RCA *OR* Solid-state (internal) amp
  
 DAC comprises of the following two components: 1)Solid-state DAC section 2) Tube-buffer. The output of the first section is passed through the tube buffer to add "coloration" of the tube type
  


spacequeen7 said:


> in what way is it "gimmick" ?..please explain


 
  
 See:


abhinit90 said:


> So I have a doubt.
> 
> *Since the DAC is a solid state one with a tube buffer. Wouldn't the signal be more "pure" if somehow the tube stage was bypassed? So tubes are only acting as an equalizer?*
> 
> ...


----------



## spacequeen7

abhinit90 said:


> See:
> *Since the DAC is a solid state one with a tube buffer. Wouldn't the signal be more "pure" if somehow the tube stage was bypassed? *


 
 I already mention the tube stage NOT being bypassed 
  
 Aune won't work without the tube,quit trying to nit pick and enjoy this little unit


----------



## abhinit90

spacequeen7 said:


> I already mention the tube stage NOT being bypassed
> 
> Aune won't work without the tube


 

 I'm very well aware of that, but doesn't a tube-buffer only serve to "pollute" the signal. Wouldn't the Aune be better off without it?


----------



## spacequeen7

abhinit90 said:


> I'm very well aware of that, but doesn't a tube-buffer only serve to "pollute" the signal. Wouldn't the Aune be better off without it?


 
 I don't think tube rolling is your thing ,if you prefer dry /sterile sound just stick with SS


----------



## abhinit90

spacequeen7 said:


> I don't think tube rolling is your thing ,if you prefer dry /sterile sound just stick with SS


 

 Sir, let me quote a famous TV-show: "I want to believe"
  
 I'm trying to find a reason, I feel that I'm missing something. As far as I can understand, tube rolling (In THIS case) only amounts to a sort of equalization. Mostly "proper" tubes are required only in tube amps.


----------



## Rem0o

spacequeen7 said:


> I don't think tube rolling is your thing ,if you prefer dry /sterile sound just stick with SS


 
 SS are not dry/sterile. Listen to a Violectric V200 or a Burson and tell me it is dry.

 The tube in the T1 as everyone knows is a buffer, thus having no gain. So you are adding 2 amplification devices (dual triodes) , implemented in a way that they add 0 gain. As far as fidelity is concerned, those added parts can only add distortion and/or deteriorate the original signal. Compare this to a tube amp / preamp, where the tube is an essential part of the circuit, providing gain to the signal, thus being a key part of the design.

 That's just my take on it, I might be wrong. But that's not the say the Aune T1 is a bad unit, it's just that some design elements are questionable.


----------



## abhinit90

rem0o said:


> SS are not dry/sterile. Listen to a Violectric V200 or a Burson and tell me it is dry.
> 
> The tube in the T1 as everyone knows is a buffer, thus having no gain. So you are adding 2 amplification devices (dual triodes) , implemented in a way that they add 0 gain. As far as fidelity is concerned, those added parts can only add distortion and/or deteriorate the original signal. Compare this to a tube amp / preamp, where the tube is an essential part of the circuit, providing gain to the signal, thus being a key part of the design.
> 
> That's just my take on it, I might be wrong. But that's not the say the Aune T1 is a bad unit, it's just that some design elements are questionable.


 
 That is exactly what I've been asking. It is mostly a gimmick imo. (P.S: Not all gimmicks are bad)
  
 However I'm finding it hard to trust my ears. If it's worth anything, the amp section of the T1 and the Schiit Vali are almost 90% the same to my ears. Need to carefully compare them in order to draw a conclusion though


----------



## dana789

abhinit90 said:


> That is exactly what I've been asking. It is mostly a gimmick imo. (P.S: Not all gimmicks are bad)
> 
> However I'm finding it hard to trust my ears. If it's worth anything, the amp section of the T1 and the Schiit Vali are almost 90% the same to my ears. Need to carefully compare them in order to draw a conclusion though


 

 I think there's been lots of discussion on this thread that the T1 is less "tubey" than equivalent devices with no soild state components following the actual D/A circuit (anyone care to make one of those with just tubes?). But most contributors to the thread seem to think that the tube stage, even with a gain of 1, gives a measure of the unique tube sound we like. Unless 100s of us are victims of our imaginations (entirely possible!) it seems that changing tubes alters the sound. So the tube stage contributes to the acoustic signature even if it imparts no gain.


----------



## abhinit90

dana789 said:


> I think there's been lots of discussion on this thread that the T1 is less "tubey" than equivalent devices with no soild state components following the actual D/A circuit (anyone care to make one of those with just tubes?). But most contributors to the thread seem to think that the tube stage, even with a gain of 1, gives a measure of the unique tube sound we like. Unless 100s of us are victims of our imaginations (entirely possible!) it seems that changing tubes alters the sound. So the tube stage contributes to the acoustic signature even if it imparts no gain.


 

 I've been mentioning in every post that using tubes only seems to act as a hardware equalizer (from what I cna understand). And if an equalizer doesn't change a sound, then I'm all out of ideas.
  
 I have no detailed idea on why don't DAC's usually use tubes. I guess something to learn then.


----------



## dana789

abhinit90 said:


> I've been mentioning in every post that using tubes only seems to act as a hardware equalizer (from what I cna understand). And if an equalizer doesn't change a sound, then I'm all out of ideas.
> 
> I have no detailed idea on why don't DAC's usually use tubes. I guess something to learn then.


 

 Even if a stage has a gain of 1 (usually to match impedances, gain of 1 doesn't mean it has no function), it might still not be ideal. Those non-idealities (cross-coupling between channels, uneven frequency response, phase shifts, distortion, etc) are what we like. I bet that a solid state  buffer stage could be more ideal, but we like the imperfect "musical" attributes of tubes because they sound good to us. And don't discount the aesthetic appeal of a glowing tube.


----------



## spacequeen7

rem0o said:


> SS are not dry/sterile. Listen to a Violectric V200 or a Burson and tell me it is dry.
> 
> The tube in the T1 as everyone knows is a buffer, thus having no gain. So you are adding 2 amplification devices (dual triodes) , implemented in a way that they add 0 gain. As far as fidelity is concerned, those added parts can only add distortion and/or deteriorate the original signal. Compare this to a tube amp / preamp, where the tube is an essential part of the circuit, providing gain to the signal, thus being a key part of the design.
> 
> That's just my take on it, I might be wrong. But that's not the say the Aune T1 is a bad unit, it's just that some design elements are questionable.


 
 if you need to compare $700~$1000 Burson/Violectric  to $160~$200 Aune that just speaks volume on how good Aune is buffer or not and as for "tube is an essential part of the circuit" it sure seems (sounds) that way to me (on Aune)


----------



## NCSUZoSo

spacequeen7 said:


> if you need to compare $700~$1000 Burson/Violectric  to $160~$200 Aune that just speaks volume on how good Aune is buffer or not and as for "tube is an essential part of the circuit" it sure seems (sounds) that way to me (on Aune)


 
  
 As long as you run USB, if you run line in only, the circuit works fine without the tube inserted at all.


----------



## spacequeen7

ncsuzoso said:


> As long as you run USB, if you run line in only, the circuit works fine without the tube inserted at all.


 
 good to know as I only try to pair it with tube amps/RCA out
 Thanks


----------



## Rem0o

spacequeen7 said:


> if you need to compare $700~$1000 Burson/Violectric  to $160~$200 Aune that just speaks volume on how good Aune is buffer or not and as for "tube is an essential part of the circuit" it sure seems (sounds) that way to me (on Aune)


 
 I didn't compared those unit to the Aune, just giving exemple of "warm" SS amps. Matrix M-Stage fits in this category as well if you want a more closely price-matched exemple.


----------



## HangzhouHIFI

spacequeen7 said:


> I have Aune T1 connected to Crack and it's sweet combo ,yes you can use DAC part of Aune via RCA -in this case you will have a benefit of using  three tubes (one on Aune and two more on Crack ),the amp on Aune works if you have your headphones connected  to Aune T1,as for headphones 400s and 650s are very good choice all tho I would recommend HD650
> 
> no you will still use the tube ,the only thing that's bypassed will be the amp


 
  
 Why the 650s over the 400s? I don't care either way, I'm not biased towards any brands. I do love Jazz and Hip Hop. That's 95% of what I listen to.


----------



## spacequeen7

hangzhouhifi said:


> Why the 650s over the 400s? I don't care either way, I'm not biased towards any brands. I do love Jazz and Hip Hop. That's 95% of what I listen to.


 
 400s are not meant to be driven by OTL all tho they sounded awesome before one of the channels give up


----------



## HangzhouHIFI

spacequeen7 said:


> 400s are not meant to be driven by OTL all tho they sounded awesome before one of the channels give up




So for $430 vs the He-400 for $300 it's worth it to step up to the 650s? I'll eventually add a nicer amp, probably in June when I'm home. Would be the Crack for the Sennys, not sure what I'd buy if I went for the Hifimans


----------



## rodweb

Does it has enough power to drive a DT880 @600 Ohms?


----------



## HoboBob

rodweb said:


> Does it has enough power to drive a DT880 @600 Ohms?


 
 Short answer is, Yes the Aune can. Nothing compared to a good OTL amp, but with the gain switch at +16db, they Beyers are fine. That was the 2nd stage of my setup (Beyer 880 600ohms + Aune T1).

 Although, make sure you get a warm tube for your T1 as the unit is borderline bright (depending on caps in it) and the Beyers are also bright. For me, I went with nice Mullards (or Mullards made tubes) and they paired well.


----------



## HoboBob

hangzhouhifi said:


> So for $430 vs the He-400 for $300 it's worth it to step up to the 650s? I'll eventually add a nicer amp, probably in June when I'm home. Would be the Crack for the Sennys, not sure what I'd buy if I went for the Hifimans


 
 If you plan on getting a Crack, well there's no real competition imo. The HD650 are highly praised and pairs really well with the Crack. (See my sig for info on the setup I run atm).


----------



## ElBartoME

Just changed the last caps in my T1. I replaced the really bad Lelon main power caps with Panasonic FR 3300µF 25V caps. They also were bigger than the old ones. I didn't think that I could fit them all inside the case but I managed to do it. Everything is in place and the T1 still works.
  
 Soundwise they don't make any change at all. But Lelon is famous for making very bad quality caps. No harm in changing them.


----------



## penmarker

My DAC portion of the unit has channel imbalance, anyone might be able to guess what's wrong? I might be able to snap some pics later.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Check your gain settings


----------



## BaTou069

I have something strange too, but maybe its normal.
 I tested the Aune with Shure SE846 they have only 9ohm...not the perfect match I know, but:
 when playing music but the aune volume knob is on minimum, i can hear a bit of the music on one channel only. its not silent, and its no noise either. its the music. the moment i go up in the volume both channels are the same. 
 Do you hear music playing when on zero volume?


----------



## pepku

I just found voskhod 6n23p at local store. It have rocket logo on it and 6h23n marks but it also have pentagolan logo, like this one: http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/vt.mpl?f=tubes&m=231789&VT=T This is good one? At this moment I'm using EH6922 tube with my grados and I'm looking for something sounding warmer.


----------



## abhinit90

batou069 said:


> I have something strange too, but maybe its normal.
> I tested the Aune with Shure SE846 they have only 9ohm...not the perfect match I know, but:
> when playing music but the aune volume knob is on minimum, i can hear a bit of the music on one channel only. its not silent, and its no noise either. its the music. the moment i go up in the volume both channels are the same.
> Do you hear music playing when on zero volume?


 
 Happens with many amps, do not worry
  
 It's normal


----------



## penmarker

ncsuzoso said:


> Check your gain settings


 

 I'm talking about the DAC section, not the amp section.


----------



## spacequeen7

penmarker said:


> My DAC portion of the unit has channel imbalance, anyone might be able to guess what's wrong? I might be able to snap some pics later.


 
 could be potentiometer


----------



## mikoss

Just wanted to put this mini-review out there... My Aune came with the EH 6922, which I recently swapped to a Philips JAN 6922 (green). 
  
 The Philips was NOS (tested) bought locally cheap ($12) and I find the sound much more enjoyable than the EH. It sounds much more musically engaging (organic) as I found that the EH had decent soundstage/separation, but the sound was a bit clinical for me. The Philips does a great job with soundstage and also a superb job creating a 3 dimensional layering of guitar, vocals, drums, etc. The highs are not as extended as the EH, but that is a very minor trade off for myself.
  
 I listen to indie rock, folk, chilled out vocal stuff. My sources are all FLAC, mostly redbook with a bit of hi-res. Here are some of the albums I thought sounded great with the Philips...
  
 Alt-J - An Awesome Wave (24/96) - very nicely organic, driven sound
 Andrew Bird - Armchair Apocrypha - beautiful, layered sound... "Darkmatter" guitar/drum intro is superb
 Beach House - Teen Dream - musically engaging, pleasant
 Beck - Sea Change (24k MFSL CD) - amazing recording, guitar is breathtakingly real
 Jenn Grant - Honeymoon Punch - again beautifully layered, 3d
 The Weepies - Say I Am You - beautiful guitar/vocal layering
  
 Links if you're interested in finding the tube online...
 http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/JAN-Philips-6922-Low-Noise
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pcs-One-Pair-PHILIPS-JAN-6922-E88CC-Audio-Tubes-Made-in-USA-/141217572878?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item20e139280e
 (or search ebay for Philips JAN 6922)
  
 Currently, I've rolled over to some Amperex 7308's... I'll put together another post after doing some more listening!


----------



## diaBoliQu3

mikoss said:


> Just wanted to put this mini-review out there... My Aune came with the EH 6922, which I recently swapped to a Philips JAN 6922 (green).
> 
> The Philips was NOS (tested) bought locally cheap ($12) and I find the sound much more enjoyable than the EH. It sounds much more musically engaging (organic) as I found that the EH had decent soundstage/separation, but the sound was a bit clinical for me. The Philips does a great job with soundstage and also a superb job creating a 3 dimensional layering of guitar, vocals, drums, etc. The highs are not as extended as the EH, but that is a very minor trade off for myself.
> 
> ...


 

 EH 6922 is a great tube but need to be pair with neutral or warm amp. Aune T1 amp too bright even for a bright lover like me. Bright issue solved after I change to Amperex OG.


----------



## teb1013

Looks like you got a great deal on the Phillips. I'm looking forward to your impressions on the 7308, my favorite tube.


----------



## mikoss

Thanks for the comments guys! Here is a link to an album I made with some pictures of some of the tubes I've managed to find so far... http://mikoss.imgur.com


----------



## guy3134

elbartome said:


> Just changed the last caps in my T1. I replaced the really bad Lelon main power caps with Panasonic FR 3300µF 25V caps. They also were bigger than the old ones. I didn't think that I could fit them all inside the case but I managed to do it. Everything is in place and the T1 still works.
> 
> Soundwise they don't make any change at all. But Lelon is famous for making very bad quality caps. No harm in changing them.


 
 how did you knew what caps to replace?
 i want to upgrade mine too but i have 0 experience with electronics


----------



## ElBartoME

guy3134 said:


> how did you knew what caps to replace?
> i want to upgrade mine too but i have 0 experience with electronics


 
 CoiL did help me with identifying the caps. Changing the caps wasn't that difficult because I know how to solder. If you don't have any expirience soldering then take an old piece of hardware and try.
 If you want to go through with it shoot me a PN and I can give you more information.


----------



## cornfruit

This thread was the sole reason I just bought a T1.  Excellent purchase, I love the sound, a definite upgrade over my old uDac.
  
 I swapped out the "upgraded stock" EH 6922 for a JJ E88CC.  I like the sound of the tube better, but I'm not sure what to listen to for a definitive difference.  Is there a specific instrument between these tubes that I can a/b test to hear a difference, like a cymbal decay or guitar harmonics?
  
 Also, I am curious about how this unit works with a single tube.  I understand this is more of a tube-buffered DAC (and the amp portion is solid state), but how is a stereo signal pushed through a single tube, when all other tube equipment I've seen is one tube per channel?


----------



## ElBartoME

cornfruit said:


> Also, I am curious about how this unit works with a single tube.  I understand this is more of a tube-buffered DAC (and the amp portion is solid state), but how is a stereo signal pushed through a single tube, when all other tube equipment I've seen is one tube per channel?


 
  
 One tube has two triodes inside. One triode per channel. This is enough for a tube buffer. For a full fledged amplifier you need more because you have a more complicated circuit like cathode followers or paraphase amplifiers.


----------



## mikoss

Hey guys and girls. I'm sure this has been brought up before, but just wanted to pass along something I tried out today that works nicely...
  
 I wanted to use my turntable as the source for the Aune T1, having it go through the tube-buffer as opposed to just the digital amp section.
  
 The method I used was:
  
 TT -> RCA cable -> computer microphone input -> USB S/PDIF out to Aune T1 -> Headphones (HD 650s)
  
 I'm running Windows 7, so had to right click my speaker, go to Recording Devices, find the Microphone, then properties, and Listen tab, where I selected "Listen to device" and selected the Aune T1 under "Playback to this device". I also adjusted the input level on the Levels tab, although this is probably amplification on the computer soundcard which may degrade the quality. Haven't tried messing with the levels much.
  
 I realize it kind of sucks going from vinyl into the soundcard's mic, which I assume is then going A to D. (This probably hampers sound quality, but I haven't honestly compared this method to going directly through the amp section of the Aune...)
  
 Listening to the MFSL release of Weezer right now and it has decent imaging/dynamics.
  
 Anyone have any other thoughts on using the Aune T1 with vinyl? Have a good weekend folks!


----------



## mikoss

cornfruit said:


> This thread was the sole reason I just bought a T1.  Excellent purchase, I love the sound, a definite upgrade over my old uDac.
> 
> I swapped out the "upgraded stock" EH 6922 for a JJ E88CC.  I like the sound of the tube better, but I'm not sure what to listen to for a definitive difference.  Is there a specific instrument between these tubes that I can a/b test to hear a difference, like a cymbal decay or guitar harmonics?
> 
> Also, I am curious about how this unit works with a single tube.  I understand this is more of a tube-buffered DAC (and the amp portion is solid state), but how is a stereo signal pushed through a single tube, when all other tube equipment I've seen is one tube per channel?


 
 Hey cornfruit, congrats on getting the T1.
  
 What I've found doing music comparisons, and tube comparisons, it's a very subjective experience. My experience is that I need a good week of listening for an hour or two a day with one source, getting a good feel for how it represents my music. Then when I roll on to a new tube, or new component, I'll listen to the same material. I find there is definitely an initial difference in feeling, but it takes me a good 15 hours or so to really be able to express that difference. I've also found that NOS tubes take this time to fully "open up". This is my personal experience, and the topic of "break in" is hotly debated. I personally think there is a small amount of hardware break in, or burn in, and then some psychological connection in my brain (tuning to the nuances, if you will).
  
 Also, as far as what to listen for... I try to listen specifically for clarity, decay, soundstage, presence, expression of bass (and tight/looseness), ability to fully represent mids, imaging... but I really think a lot can be said for the ability to build an emotional impact with the music. It can be a very organic, expressive moment (maybe some people call this synergy?) between the recording and how you feel listening to it. I think all of those elements can lead to that feeling...
  
 Anyway, just my thoughts. Take them with a grain of salt, and enjoy your setup!!


----------



## atraf

Hi everyone, I am considering buying the Aune T1, just wondering how will they perform with the gr07BE IEM's which I currently have and with future purchase I have in mind, philips x1 or hd650 ? ( probably the x1)
  
 How is the the sound signature of this amp/dac ?
 and how are they bass wise? considering i mostly listen to EDM bass is important to me..
  
 [size=x-small]Another question, I have a home theater [/size]receiver[size=x-small] with 5.1 speakers is it possible to use it in someway to improve the sound quality of the speakers? maybe connect it to the front speakers?  [/size]


----------



## mikoss

atraf said:


> [size=x-small]Another question, I have a home theater [/size]receiver[size=x-small] with 5.1 speakers is it possible to use it in someway to improve the sound quality of the speakers? maybe connect it to the front speakers?  [/size]


 
  
 Heya atraf - just wanted to let you know how I connected my Aune T1 to my home theatre receiver...
  
 Basically, here is how it connected:
  
 Computer [FLAC/cd's] with Foobar player with WASAPI -> USB cable to Aune T1 -> 1/4" headphone jack to RCA cables -> RCA input on home theatre (I just picked SA/CD as the input source)
  
 I had to set the dip switches on the Aune T1 for 16db gain, and set the output volume on Foobar and in Windows 7 high.
  
 This lets you hear your music through the tube-buffer on the Aune T1, and let me tell you it sounds fantastic. My home theatre is an old Sony STR-KS370, and the sound was instantly improved over the DAC that is built into the receiver. (I had it setup via S/PDIF from the computer before).


----------



## MrEleventy

mikoss said:


> Heya atraf - just wanted to let you know how I connected my Aune T1 to my home theatre receiver...
> 
> Basically, here is how it connected:
> 
> ...


I'm curious as to why you went from the headphone jack instead of just directly from the RCA out on the T1. RCA out also uses the tube buffer.


----------



## abhinit90

mreleventy said:


> I'm curious as to why you went from the headphone jack instead of just directly from the RCA out on the T1. RCA out also uses the tube buffer.


 

 Maybe he wanted the amplified output of the T1?


----------



## MrEleventy

The receiver would do that for you as it's an amp itself.


----------



## atraf

mikoss said:


> Heya atraf - just wanted to let you know how I connected my Aune T1 to my home theatre receiver...
> 
> Basically, here is how it connected:
> 
> ...


 


mreleventy said:


> I'm curious as to why you went from the headphone jack instead of just directly from the RCA out on the T1. RCA out also uses the tube buffer.


 
 sounds good though i agree with MrEleventy..
 I was wondering if there is a way to use this dac after the receiver output for usage of the front speakers in surround mode like maybe connect it this way: pc >hdmi> reciever > speakercables to rca input> dac > rca to speakers cables > front speakers or smt .. 
  
  
 anyway again, few questions:
 1) how will this perform with an 40 ohm IEM's ?  (gr07be) anyone have an idea? 
 2) What is the sound signature of this amp with the standard tube?
 3) Anyone have tried it with Philips x1 ?


----------



## mikoss

Yeah for sure MrEleventy, the RCA output is probably the best option going to a receiver with a decent amp.
  
 When I was swapping between inputs on my receiver to compare DACs, I found it easiest to match volumes by using the Aune amp. (The Sony had to be turned up quite a lot to get the RCA input from the Aune to a decent level, then swapping to the S/PDIF input on the Sony to hear its DAC, it would be super loud)
  
 Atraf - in regards to the standard tube, I think for an extra $30 (or less), your experience could be improved quite a bit. (There are a lot of different flavours of tubes, and a lot of very good write-ups in this thread, depending on what you're looking for.)


----------



## spacequeen7

for anyone on the budget and want the very musical (true audio tube) -airy tube with good bass and very fine soundstage (very similar to 5BK7A)..can be found below $10 on ebay (NOS/black plates)
 P.S. this one should last longer then 5BK7A which is rated only 4.7v


----------



## Acknown3

Hey guys. I'm using the Aune T1 with an amperex 7308 gold pin and an HE-400. Is it worth adding a Magni or Vali to the setup? If so, which one?

 Thanks!


----------



## isendono

both should do fine , personally ill go for the vali :>


----------



## spacequeen7

acknown3 said:


> Hey guys. I'm using the Aune T1 with an amperex 7308 gold pin and an HE-400. Is it worth adding a Magni or Vali to the setup? If so, which one?
> 
> Thanks!


 
 NO,your cans will do just fine without any additional amp


----------



## Acknown3

Cool. I understand that I don't need the amp for volume purposes, but I've read a bunch of complaints about the Aune's amp.


----------



## spacequeen7

acknown3 said:


> Cool. I understand that I don't need the amp for volume purposes, but I've read a bunch of complaints about the Aune's amp.


 
 There is nothing wrong with the amp on Aune ..matter of a fact is Aune can drive HD650s no sweat ,your headphones  are not design for high impedance amp (I killed mine not that long ago ) if you had another set of cans I wouldn't even mention it


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mreleventy said:


> I'm curious as to why you went from the headphone jack instead of just directly from the RCA out on the T1. RCA out also uses the tube buffer.


 
  
 From everything I've been told by long time Aune T1 owners, the tube is actually not used the same when you just run line in/out mode on the Aune T1.  You can check this by running it like that and pulling the tube, the sound barely changes, if at all.  Now do the same when running USB, you have almost no sound.  I'm sure the amp section plays a role in this and I would like to know if I was misinformed or not.


----------



## DaemonSire

ncsuzoso said:


> From everything I've been told by long time Aune T1 owners, the tube is actually not used the same when you just run line in/out mode on the Aune T1.  You can check this by running it like that and pulling the tube, the sound barely changes, if at all.  Now do the same when running USB, you have almost no sound.  I'm sure the amp section plays a role in this and I would like to know if I was misinformed or not.


 
  
 The tube is used via USB.  Line in will bypass the tube entirely and use the amp only.  Line out will bypass the internal amp but still use the tube.
  
  
 See the FAQ on the first page:
  
 Q: Does the Aune T1 DAC utilize the tube, does the T1 headphone amp section use the tube, or do they both use the tube?
 A: The Aune T1 is a *USB tube DAC *with a solid state headphone amp. What this means is that if you want the benefits of the tube, *you must use the USB Input of the T1.  *The amp section of the T1 does not use the tube by itself. Technically, you could bypass the DAC of the T1 and just use the amp but this type of use is not really what the T1 is for. One thing you can do is use the T1 USB input then hook up a different amp to the RCA out of the T1. This will give you the benefits of the tube and allow you to try a different/more powerful amp (though I think the amp in the T1 is quite good).  I personally have a speaker amp hooked up this way so I can use my headphones and some bookshelf speakers at the same time from one source.


----------



## MrEleventy

+1, What he said.


----------



## abhinit90

acknown3 said:


> Hey guys. I'm using the Aune T1 with an amperex 7308 gold pin and an HE-400. Is it worth adding a Magni or Vali to the setup? If so, which one?
> 
> Thanks!


 
 Not worth it, the sound is almost the same with the Vali and the Aune amp, almost the same.
  
 Invest and get a better amp imo


----------



## wgkwgk

abhinit90 said:


> Not worth it, the sound is almost the same with the Vali and the Aune amp, almost the same.
> 
> Invest and get a better amp imo


 
  
 I have the Aune with an Asgard 2.  Fantastic!


----------



## ckyr

Is the Aune T1 powerful enough to drive the Beyerdynamic DT 880 or DT 990 600Ohms? I have read that some users have used the T1 as a DAC, but used a different amp. Can the T1 by itself sufficiently drive them?
  
 Thanks.


----------



## DMax99

ckyr said:


> Is the Aune T1 powerful enough to drive the Beyerdynamic DT 880 or DT 990 600Ohms? I have read that some users have used the T1 as a DAC, but used a different amp. Can the T1 by itself sufficiently drive them?
> 
> Thanks.




I have used my DT880 600ohm with my t1 and I think it sounds quite fantastic. So i don't see why it can't drive it efficiently


----------



## penmarker

mikoss said:


> Hey guys and girls. I'm sure this has been brought up before, but just wanted to pass along something I tried out today that works nicely...
> 
> I wanted to use my turntable as the source for the Aune T1, having it go through the tube-buffer as opposed to just the digital amp section.
> 
> ...


 
 I'm wondering how you plugged the TT straight into your computer without a phono stage. Does your TT has a built in phono stage?
  


spacequeen7 said:


> could be potentiometer


 
 Potentiometer as in the volume pot?
 Can't agree with that since the RCA line out also has the same channel imbalance.


----------



## Syndicat3

Hi guys,
  
 I have the DT 990 Pros 250ohm and my Aune T1 will be coming in the mail soon.
  
*What tube do you recommend I get to replace the stock tube?* I guess I want something that takes the edge off of the highs, brings the mids forward and expands the sound stage.
  
 Is something like the *E88CC *recommended? Or do I really need something like a *Amperex 7308*?
  
 What a cool little DAC/amp.
  
 Cheers..


----------



## diaBoliQu3

syndicat3 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I have the DT 990 Pros 250ohm and my Aune T1 will be coming in the mail soon.
> 
> ...


 

*I think Amperex OG 6DJ8 / ECC88 suitable for a bright headphone. Using this tube for my HD600. Try to pair with warm amp, still like it. *


----------



## mikoss

penmarker said:


> I'm wondering how you plugged the TT straight into your computer phono stage. Does your TT has a built in phono stage?




Yeah, I have a newer Audio Technica TT with a built in phono stage/pre-amp.


----------



## Syndicat3

diaboliqu3 said:


> *I think Amperex OG 6DJ8 / ECC88 suitable for a bright headphone. Using this tube for my HD600. Try to pair with warm amp, still like it. *


 
 Thanks... I'd like to get this tube. Where did you buy yours?
  
 I briefly looked on ebay but didn't find any with a number of sales.


----------



## MrEleventy

Just do a search for Amperex 6DJ8 and look for ones with orange silkscreening.


----------



## Syndicat3

mreleventy said:


> Just do a search for Amperex 6DJ8 and look for ones with *orange silkscreening.*


 
  
 Thank you..
  
 So something like this would be good? http://tctubes.com/Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-orange-globe.aspx


----------



## MrEleventy

It'll work... but I wouldn't spend more than $20-30 on one tbh. I got 3 of them for 15-20 each. 1 NOS, 2 tested high.


----------



## rwpritchett

syndicat3 said:


> *What tube do you recommend I get to replace the stock tube?* I guess I want something that takes the edge off of the highs, brings the mids forward and expands the sound stage.


The Gold Lion is a nice new-production upgrade from the stock 6922EH. Here's a barely used one on ebay that you might be able to snag up cheap:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genalex-Gold-Lion-6922-E88CC-Gold-Pin-Tube-Barely-Used-/271432681647?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3f32a608af

They run ~$45 new.


----------



## Syndicat3

rwpritchett said:


> The Gold Lion is a nice new-production upgrade from the stock 6922EH. Here's a barely used one on ebay that you might be able to snag up cheap:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genalex-Gold-Lion-6922-E88CC-Gold-Pin-Tube-Barely-Used-/271432681647?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3f32a608af
> 
> They run ~$45 new.


 
  
 Do you think this tube would sound similar? The JJ E88CC? 
  
 http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/JJ-E88CC-6922-Gold
  
 Otherwise, I'm just going to try to find the Gold Lion on ebay that ships for cheap to Canada.


----------



## rwpritchett

syndicat3 said:


> Do you think this tube would sound similar? The JJ E88CC?
> 
> http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/JJ-E88CC-6922-Gold
> 
> Otherwise, I'm just going to try to find the Gold Lion on ebay that ships for cheap to Canada.




Tubedepot has a comparison tool that shows their ratings on the 6922EH, Gold Lion, and some JJ's:

https://www.tubedepot.com/tube-comparison-tool

Go to the pre-amp 6922 section. That might help you compare candidate tubes.


----------



## Syndicat3

Does the Aune T1 only use 12V towards the tube? From what I read, the 6922 it comes with wants 90V for class A and can handle up to 220V.
  
 Doesn't this mean that the tube in this device is more for show? 
  
 If that's the case, I'm thinking about saving some money and going with something else, like the Bravo V3.


----------



## spacequeen7

syndicat3 said:


> Thank you..
> 
> So something like this would be good? http://tctubes.com/Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-orange-globe.aspx


 
 you can have one of this ,PM me if interested


----------



## abhinit90

Are there fake Valvo e88cc's floating around?
  
 I got it but it has an A-frame with a solid disc getter, is it a fake?
  
 A lot of different type of boxes and all make it confusing for me, should I post some pics?


----------



## AngryGoldfish

syndicat3 said:


> Does the Aune T1 only use 12V towards the tube? From what I read, the 6922 it comes with wants 90V for class A and can handle up to 220V.
> 
> Doesn't this mean that the tube in this device is more for show?
> 
> If that's the case, I'm thinking about saving some money and going with something else, like the Bravo V3.


 
  
 There could be charge pumps inside that bump the voltage being sent to the tube to the 220 volts, but I doubt it. In the guitar world, there are quite a few tube pedals that run preamp tubes at around 12 volts, but very few still in production that exert the full voltage available to the tubes. From what I can tell, you won't be able to output 240v from USB and will need a kettle lead and a full-sized transformer. I really can't imagine the Aune T1 has any of these in the way that full-sized amplifiers have that cost ten times the price do.
  
 Is it a gimmick? No, not in my opinion. The tubes still impact the sound—to what degree is up to you and your discretion—and swapping them out with NOS variations will alter the sound slightly, for sure. Again, would it be as much in a design that can kill you if you touched the capacitors without discharging them first? Probably not. But don't discredit it yet. I'd recommend seeing how it sounds before making any passive judgements. I've been dismissive of tube pedals that run off 12v power supplies, but some of my favourite designs use either charge pumps or are simply built so well that you don't notice the difference, and sound as good as if not better than the 240v pedals that cost $1000 and are enormous and impractical.


----------



## Ankh

angrygoldfish said:


> There could be charge pumps inside that bump the voltage being sent to the tube to the 220 volts, but I doubt it. In the guitar world, there are quite a few tube pedals that run preamp tubes at around 12 volts, but very few still in production that exert the full voltage available to the tubes. From what I can tell, you won't be able to output 240v from USB and will need a kettle lead and a full-sized transformer. I really can't imagine the Aune T1 has any of these in the way that full-sized amplifiers have that cost ten times the price do.



 


I thought that I understood the role of the tube in Aune T1, but now I am not so sure. 

It was said that the gain achieved by the tube is 1, that the tube is used as "buffer". If I am not mistaken, a tube used as "buffer" and with gain 1, then serves the purpose of "distortion" (or "modulation") phase, it is there only to introduce those distortions pleasant for human ear found in preamps/amps built on tube technology. Which is, BTW, great, I want sound that is pleasant for my ears, the measurements and instruments be damned. 

But now the quoted chapter indicates that higher voltages can be provided by voltage pumps and that sounds like an amplification stage to me... 

Which is it, please? I am considering pairing HD600's with either T1 or O2/amp and am a bit suspicious about the consistency of T1s.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

ankh said:


> angrygoldfish said:
> 
> 
> > There could be charge pumps inside that bump the voltage being sent to the tube to the 220 volts, but I doubt it. In the guitar world, there are quite a few tube pedals that run preamp tubes at around 12 volts, but very few still in production that exert the full voltage available to the tubes. From what I can tell, you won't be able to output 240v from USB and will need a kettle lead and a full-sized transformer. I really can't imagine the Aune T1 has any of these in the way that full-sized amplifiers have that cost ten times the price do.
> ...


 
  
 Higher voltages can be provided by charge pumps or from the wall and an appropriately sized and specified transformer. How this translates to sound is debatable, and is, from my understanding, not set in stone. Amplification can be described as 'gain'. When you turn the gain up on an amplifier, the volume is increased. When that volume surpasses the clean threshold of the design and tubes, distortion and compression is introduced. This is a pleasing and 'modern' sound, depending on your preferences and set-up obviously.
  
 So basically, don't worry. Charge pumps are not commonly used in the technology I'm aware of, though I could be ignorant to a vaster, wider use of it. I doubt the Aune T1 has charge pumps. I can't see anything in the photo I have of the PCB that looks like a charge pump circuit. Really I was just being conversational. I don't know that much about the T1, probably as much as you. I hope I didn't create any confusion for your purchase. I'll be buying the T1 as my first headphone amp and DAC. I know a lot about tube technology, but not in the headphone context.


----------



## MrEleventy

angrygoldfish said:


> There could be charge pumps inside that bump the voltage being sent to the tube to the 220 volts, but I doubt it. In the guitar world, there are quite a few tube pedals that run preamp tubes at around 12 volts, but very few still in production that exert the full voltage available to the tubes. From what I can tell, you won't be able to output 240v from USB and will need a kettle lead and a full-sized transformer. I really can't imagine the Aune T1 has any of these in the way that full-sized amplifiers have that cost ten times the price do.
> 
> Is it a gimmick? No, not in my opinion. The tubes still impact the sound—to what degree is up to you and your discretion—and swapping them out with NOS variations will alter the sound slightly, for sure. Again, would it be as much in a design that can kill you if you touched the capacitors without discharging them first? Probably not. But don't discredit it yet. I'd recommend seeing how it sounds before making any passive judgements. I've been dismissive of tube pedals that run off 12v power supplies, but some of my favourite designs use either charge pumps or are simply built so well that you don't notice the difference, and sound as good as if not better than the 240v pedals that cost $1000 and are enormous and impractical.


The T1 doesn't get it's power from the USB. You can modify a USB cord and cut the +/- power leads and it'll still operate. It's powered by the power supply. USB is just for data transfer. I think there's some internal images of the power supply but can't seem to find it anymore.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

mreleventy said:


> The T1 doesn't get it's power from the USB. You can modify a USB cord and cut the +/- power leads and it'll still operate. It's powered by the power supply. USB is just for data transfer. I think there's some internal images of the power supply but can't seem to find it anymore.


 
  
 Yeah, I don't think you can run 240 volts from USB. But I know the T1 doesn't run on 240V so I can see why I was confusing there.


----------



## Ankh

angrygoldfish said:


> When you turn the gain up on an amplifier, the volume is increased. When that volume surpasses the clean threshold of the design and tubes, distortion and compression is introduced. This is a pleasing and 'modern' sound, depending on your preferences and set-up obviously.



 


The gain of 1, 0 dB, means no amplification. The amplitude of the signal on input should be the same as the amplitude on the output of the stage. 

But the distortion should still be there even without the amplification if I am not mistaken?


----------



## AngryGoldfish

That


ankh said:


> angrygoldfish said:
> 
> 
> > When you turn the gain up on an amplifier, the volume is increased. When that volume surpasses the clean threshold of the design and tubes, distortion and compression is introduced. This is a pleasing and 'modern' sound, depending on your preferences and set-up obviously.
> ...


 
  
 You could be right. I guess from my understanding, gain and amplitude are one and the same. Without gain there is no amplitude, and when you think of gain you think of distortion. I think my misunderstanding is that you seem to be saying the amplifier is only 'buffering' the signal and is still relying on the amplitude of the original device. What I'm saying is: When you amplify the signal via the device on the sound source, you are amplifying its set of frequencies. The T1 changes this by bypassing that amp entirely and adding its own distortion via its own amp. So although it states 0dB, there is still amplitude, it's just not higher than the original source.


----------



## Ankh

angrygoldfish said:


> That
> 
> You could be right. I guess from my understanding, gain and amplitude are one and the same. Without gain there is no amplitude, and when you think of gain you think of distortion. I think my misunderstanding is that you seem to be saying the amplifier is only 'buffering' the signal and is still relying on the amplitude of the original device. What I'm saying is: When you amplify the signal via the device on the sound source, you are amplifying its set of frequencies. The T1 changes this by bypassing that amp entirely and adding its own distortion via its own amp. So although it states 0dB, there is still amplitude, it's just not higher than the original source.



 


What I am trying to say is that distortion is inherent whenever one is leading a signal through the active component, be it a semiconductor or a tube. The response across the frequency range is, alas, never ideally flat, and some frequencies will be slightly attenuated, some slightly amplified even for circuit that operates in "no amplification" mode.

If Aune T1 is indeed running its tube as a "buffer", the design of the device is ingenious as it is relying on solid-state components to do amplification and the tube is there to introduce the desirable and (for human ears) pleasant distortions inherent to that tech. And whatever black magic happens as a consequence of compound work of DAC+tube.

I like that. I distrust any preamp/amp built on tube technology that sells for ~$200.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

ankh said:


> angrygoldfish said:
> 
> 
> > That
> ...


 
  
 I think you're right. All-tube amps, in my experience, require high quality components to function properly, and extremely high quality to function at their best. You could have an excellent circuit design, but if you use cheap capacitors, don't filter the noise properly, don't bias the output tubes correctly, you'll have a poor machine with great potential. With that said, I do think you can make low cost tube amps work, but you will probably have to source production in cheaper countries such as China.
  
 A truly 'flat' frequency curve is not usually very enjoyable to listen to. The songs we listen to are mastered on speakers that have a frequency 'balance' more so than a flatness. That's what I've come to learn anyway. It's almost impossible to create a 'slab' of analog sound. Digitally it's more than possible to create a flat frequency, but with analog technology it must be incredibly hard. Which is maybe why we have adjusted and settled on the specific frequency curve that we have now; because technology wasn't advanced enough to perfectly flatten the spectrum and then record excellent music with it. The same goes for the frequency of concert pitch, 440hz. For some reason that's what we settled on. Conspiracy theorists have theories as to why. I read that the Nazi's pumped out music and sound at 432hz to 'pacify' inhabitants as its frequency curve is more in line with human placidness, and it also apparently was used to control. Ha!


----------



## Ankh

angrygoldfish said:


> A truly 'flat' frequency curve is not usually very enjoyable to listen to. The songs we listen to are mastered on speakers that have a frequency 'balance' more so than a flatness. That's what I've come to learn anyway.


 
Touché.
  
Thanks for the conversation, AngryGoldfish. Looks like my purchase will be pushed out for a few months, as a (smart)phone just died in my family. It might be a good thing, giving me some time to explore the alternatives. This site is a gold mine of information.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

ankh said:


> Touché.
> 
> Thanks for the conversation, AngryGoldfish. Looks like my purchase will be pushed out for a few months, as a (smart)phone just died in my family. It might be a good thing, giving me some time to explore the alternatives. This site is a gold mine of information.


 
  
 There are a ****-ton of choices to peruse through. I quite like the Audioengine D3 for portable use and for my consoles, the T1 and Schiit Modi/Magni combo for my desktop, and the Astro MixAmp for gaming and movies upstairs. That would set me back around €700. I think it would be a versatile way to get into the world of hi-fi. I may end up just using the D3 and seeing no difference between it and the others, or I may want to invest more, I dunno. We shall see.


----------



## mikoss

Oh boy, I have been rolling some Amperex tubes, but couldn't resist trying out a Siemens E88CC a couple of days ago... Haven't been able to pull it out just yet... it has a very enchanting sound. It does a wonderful job of detailed, extended airy highs without coming across as harsh or bright. (I'm listening on "laid back" HD 650s, but I dare say it would also be enjoyable on Grados/AKGs...)
  
 The soundstaging is also very good, decent separation and representation of mids as well. (I personally think the Amperex tubes I was listening to had a wider soundstage). Where the Siemens tube really shines are the detailed highs... rich, refined clarity for a beautiful sound. 
  
 I actually noticed the EH6922 that came with the Aune seemed to be trying to push the high end, but compared to the Siemens tube, they felt forced and far less airy/refined to me. The extended range in vocals/guitar/percussion also does a great job giving some added depth/holographic sound to music I've enjoyed for years... 
  
 I picked up the tubes off ebay NOS for around $45 each... they can go for a little more as well. (I would love to hear some Telefunken tubes to compare them as well... I do have some RTC/Mullard E188CC's coming next week, so I'll compare and see how they sound).
  
 One tube has an etched date code of A0 1*≠* 4F, and the other just has numbers stamped between the pins. I have also seen date codes stamped on the getter supports.


----------



## slayerdemon555

Would this amp lead to a noticeable improvement in quality with my beyerdynamic dt 990 premium 32 Ohm version headphones? I have never owned an amp or dac before. Wondering if this one is worth taking the plunge for.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

slayerdemon555 said:


> Would this amp lead to a noticeable improvement in quality with my beyerdynamic dt 990 premium 32 Ohm version headphones? I have never owned an amp or dac before. Wondering if this one is worth taking the plunge for.


 
 I NEVER listened to DT 990 but I owned HD 600. I was told that DT 990 is brighter than HD 600. And Aune T1 amp really bright for my HD 600 and I need to change the tube to balanced the sound. So, in your case I think that Aune T1 will make your headphone very bright. This is just my assumption.


----------



## guy3134

diaBoliQu3
 what music do you listen to with the hd600? and how do you like it with the aune?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

guy3134 said:


> diaBoliQu3
> what music do you listen to with the hd600? and how do you like it with the aune?


 
 All sort... Rock, vocal, reggae, metal, RnB hip hop etc. But IMO, Aune T1 in my case sound better with vocal, classic, opera. I don't think will change DAC. Now waiting my Crack, transit at my friend's house. But, with Aune and HD600, I don't listen to EDM and similar genre. For that, I use my FiiO X3 as DAC/ amp and Amperior.
  
 How you tag me buddy?


----------



## guy3134

diaboliqu3 said:


> All sort... Rock, vocal, reggae, metal, RnB hip hop etc. But IMO, Aune T1 in my case sound better with vocal, classic, opera. I don't think will change DAC. Now waiting my Crack, transit at my friend's house. But, with Aune and HD600, I don't listen to EDM and similar genre. For that, I use my FiiO X3 as DAC/ amp and Amperior.
> 
> How you tag me buddy?


 
 i do want the hd600 for metal, how do you think they deal with this genre?


----------



## spacequeen7

^^^HD650s are considered by more then few to be the "Rock headphones ",I would guess 600s are very similar


----------



## nuclearblast

How will it deal with Audio-technica M50? Progressive, thrash, heavy Metal, progressive rock


----------



## diaBoliQu3

guy3134 said:


> i do want the hd600 for metal, how do you think they deal with this genre?


 
 IMO HD 600 is more like a vocal, classical, and opera oriented. It''s good for rock, metal and pop but not as great as the genre I mentioned earlier
  
 I do like them for metal but you need to match it with warm amp and warm tube. With changing 6DJ8 alone, the only problem left is ear piercing hi hat cymbals sound. Pair with a warm amp and the piercing bright issue go away.
  
 http://www.soundsnap.com/tags/hi_hat#
  
 I  some of metal and similar band I often listen too;
 - Avenged Sevenfold
 - Diablo Swing Orchestra
 - SOAD
 - Pantera
 - Chimaira
 - Helloween
 - Dream Theater
 - Nightwish
 - Cannibal Corpse
  
 For this kind of genre, I will say they much better in symphonic or opera metal than heavy, progressive, black, new metal etc. And I wish there's more energy from the drum and bass. The impact, quality is there but I need more power, amount... The guitar, and the vocal however superb. Superb separation and imaging, no metallic guitar sound, energetic, and wide soundstage without being too laid back, no muddy bass.
  
 And don't forget to set the amp to 16db or else the sound will be very bad in 10db. The reason I pick HD 600 is because I'm a universal listener. If you just listened to metal, pop, and little time on vocal, classic, try Philips X1. Which is too bassy for vocal and classical IMO but very fun for pop, RnB, rock, and metal. It's a good kind of bassy BTW, not that plasticky, muddy bass.


----------



## guy3134

black metal.


----------



## dana789

diaboliqu3 said:


> IMO HD 600 is more like a vocal, classical, and opera oriented. It''s good for rock, metal and pop but not as great as the genre I mentioned earlier
> 
> I do like them for metal but you need to match it with warm amp and warm tube. With changing 6DJ8 alone, the only problem left is ear piercing hi hat cymbals sound. Pair with a warm amp and the piercing bright issue go away.
> 
> ...


 
  
*diaBoliQu3:*
   
I see you have the Stoner Acoustics UD100 and the Aune T1. Can I ask how you think they compare as DACs? they are quite different animals, of course.

  
 Thanks.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

dana789 said:


> *diaBoliQu3:*
> 
> I see you have the Stoner Acoustics UD100 and the Aune T1. Can I ask how you think they compare as DACs? they are quite different animals, of course.
> 
> Thanks.


 
 Hi mate.
  
 Unfortunately I never have the chance to compare them head to head. UD100 mostly used for powering my speaker, Edifier R1900Tiii at my gaming rig. While Aune T1 attach to my laptop. Nice idea you gave me. Now need to look for 3.5mm to RCA to compare these two with Crack. I only have RCA cable with me now.


----------



## hdtv00

Well I just joined this club and bought one who knows when it will get here, I wasn't even entirely aware it was a Tube DAC only but from people reviews and talk on here I couldn't go without hearing it for myself I guess and at the price I can always pass it on to someone on here and break almost even probably if it turns out to not be my cup of tea. I have HD 650 and HD 560 Ovation II's.


----------



## HangzhouHIFI

My He-400s come tomorrow. I ultimately decided on them because they're easier to drive and supposedly a perfect match for hip hop and jazz. My question regarding the T1 is re: Amperex 7308. Ive been looking for a new tube, and I'd like to buy the best one possible for what I listen to. Is this the right way to go? I can snag a pair for about $80. Please advise.


----------



## hdtv00

Since this is a tube DAC only is it ok to use driver grade tube in it. I seen someone mention that so it got me wondering. Anyway have any insight into this at all.


----------



## isendono

driver grade is fine.


----------



## jjacq

Thinking of buying a few tubes but I really don't know how to choose besides looking at the compatible sockets for the T1. Do I just base my shopping choices on the ones that have reviews? Can I just get a random ECC88 tube and it should work with the T1? I see a bunch of cheap ones on eBay that's from Europe and I was wondering if these are even worth my attention.
  
 Help?

 Right now I have a Vacuum Tube 6DJ8 / ECC88 and the stock tube. I was thinking of getting the Genalex Gold Lion but I was wondering if I should get 2-3 cheap tubes with that price instead.
  
 Thanks. I listen to any genre but I will be using the Aune with Denon D2000's and Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pros.


----------



## hdtv00

Go back and read this thread they give TONS of advice on tubes in just the first few pages, hell even on page 1 post 1 bottom he lists nice pairings but yea I hear ya man I'm in same boat wondering what to get or even understanding their ratings and little ins and outs between same type. I'm as lost as you are really, but I'm reading entire thread up to page 120 lol.


----------



## jjacq

hdtv00 said:


> Go back and read this thread they give TONS of advice on tubes in just the first few pages, hell even on page 1 post 1 bottom he lists nice pairings but yea I hear ya man I'm in same boat wondering what to get or even understanding their ratings and little ins and outs between same type. I'm as lost as you are really, but I'm reading entire thread up to page 120 lol.


 
 Yeah most likely just gonna get the Gold Lion since it seems to score well across the board. There's also the Amperex OG ECC88... But I'm just curious about the old cheaper tubes, what is the downside to these NOS from Russia and etc? I'm assuming they all work with the Aune.

 Are these random cheap tubes more like wildcard tubes then?
  
 I'm most likely going to get a gold lion, or the amperex or a JJ 6922 + Electro Harmonix 6922.


----------



## Charliemotta

I only have 6 tubes so far, buy I have the 3 listed in your post and they are all very good. I do like the Gold Lion the best.


----------



## mikoss

jjacq said:


> Yeah most likely just gonna get the Gold Lion since it seems to score well across the board. There's also the Amperex OG ECC88... But I'm just curious about the old cheaper tubes, what is the downside to these NOS from Russia and etc? I'm assuming they all work with the Aune.
> 
> Are these random cheap tubes more like wildcard tubes then?
> 
> I'm most likely going to get a gold lion, or the amperex or a JJ 6922 + Electro Harmonix 6922.


 
 Hey Jcacq, welcome to the Aune family 
  
 The cheaper tubes aren't exactly wildcards... I would say they just represent the sound differently, and some people prefer a more neutral/transparent presentation. To be honest, you may still enjoy the cheaper tubes, as I've personally found some of the higher priced tubes offer just a touch more (clearer/detailed highs, or tighter bass with more impact).
  
 I don't think you'd go wrong trying the cheaper tubes out, and also you can find some really great deals on ebay if you have the patience.
 examples of used tubes:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amperex-6922-E88CC-6DJ8-tubes-/301133026782
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/371020153374
  
 and some other still available listings:
 ecc88's (nice highs) around $45 each...
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/370952388887
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/360860036284
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/231167736803
 e188cc
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/111301724762
  
 voshkod rocket nos, cheap $22
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=201064852058
  
 philips jan 6922 used, $50 for a pair
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/One-Matched-Pair-of-JAN-6922-Tubes-By-Philips-of-USA-/370969328514
  
 amperex bb 6dj8 nos, cheap
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amperex-6DJ8-tube-/131155674736
  
 and here you go... two OG's testing strong for $40
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Amperex-Heerlen-6DJ8-Vacuum-Tubes-Tested-GAE-Series-Same-Codes-Dimpled-Disc-/151266354513
  
 (I'm sure these will all be snatched up very quickly


----------



## jjacq

mikoss said:


> Hey Jcacq, welcome to the Aune family
> 
> The cheaper tubes aren't exactly wildcards... I would say they just represent the sound differently, and some people prefer a more neutral/transparent presentation. To be honest, you may still enjoy the cheaper tubes, as I've personally found some of the higher priced tubes offer just a touch more (clearer/detailed highs, or tighter bass with more impact).
> 
> ...


 
  
 Wow you really went out of your way! Thank you so much and definitely going to look for a few cheap tubes to try out. Wish I had enough to just buy them all haha . Thank you again.


----------



## hdtv00

Yea what he said, thanks so much for taking the time Jjacq. Really helps us out because even though I been reading this thread non stop since yesterday. I'm still at a bit of a loss as to picking the actual right version of what I'm looking for 99% of the time.


----------



## mikoss

This might be a dumb question, forgive me if it is...
  
 If I wanted to hook up my Aune T1 to an amp and speakers, would it be better to go with a solid state amp, or a tube amp?
 I'm thinking solid state since there is already a buffer tube in the Aune... if I used another tube amp would it alter the sound too much?
  
 Just wondering. I ended up buying a SS amp and some speakers today (waiting a couple of weeks for them to come in), but I was considering getting a SE tube amp in the future.


----------



## hdtv00

Yea it would alter the sound. But you can match all the tubes and it would probably be ok, I read some talk of just that thing earlier on in the thread. One person hated how it sounded but was using different tubes, another person I think said to match tubes and give it a go. Oh there are pics earlier in the thread around page 12 or so of this being used with tube amp's they looked real nice. Pics of someone using it with a Schiit Modi, that looked cool. The fun never seems to end with this thing.
  
 I plan on at least testing by line out to my receiver and hearing DAC on my pretty nice Paradigm Studio 100 v3's. Either way I'm trying to nail down if I want tubes or since I've never heard a tube anything of any kind, hell I've never even heard a real amp of any kind.
  
 I'm using my on board audio from motherboard which is supposed to be very nice at least. ASRock Purity sound amp section can run 600 ohm so they say. And it does sound miles better than anything else I've ever had my headphones plugged into so this from what I read should give me WOW factor. Or so I'm hoping.
  
 Here are the ones from my reading that we'll all want to try I bet
 Ultron PCC189 "white or golden"
 Miniwatt-Dario PCC189
 Amperex 6DJ8 "Orange Globe" GAC
 Mullard ECC88 (European designation for 6DJ8) Holland GAE
 I bought that bb you listed above because for that price whatever , I seen BB listed earlier in thread and it's at least ok and for that price I said heck with it. My problem is I have no idea when my Aune will ship because of where I bought it, could be a month for all i know. Which means I couldn't test whatever I buy in a timely manner so...


----------



## mikoss

Haven't tried out the bb's yet but I'm sure it will sound lovely.
  
 Here's what I've collected so far... I think I will stop for a bit because I'm feeling obsessed, but I enjoy most of the tubes I've tried. (maybe 5 of these so far)
  

 Sovtek 6922
 Voskhod Rocket 6h23p
 Sylvania 6dj8
 Westinghouse 6dj8
 GE smoked 6dj8
  
 Philips JAN 6922
 Amperex OG 6dj8 (Germany & Holland)
 Sylvania 7308
 Philips/Amperex Miniwatt 7308 (SQ/PQ)
 Siemens E88CC
 RTC Mullard E188CC


----------



## hdtv00

Yes that's where I got it. And yea that a heck of a collection you got there.
  
 And I just read this from earlier post which is dead on too
  
 "Seriously, I have read all 122 pages. There's lots of info, sometimes contradicting info . After a while, ECC88, PCC88, PCC189, 6DJ8, 6N1P, 6N23P, etc. started to sound the same and I'll got confused."
  
 Yea I'm at that point page 122 and yes it does all blend in after awhile. So it is hard for someone who only knew about tube stuff to get any kind of real actual grasp of it all even by page 122.
  
 Like ok they tell us kind, with numbers, but then there are other factors sometimes. A-frame vs not, platter vs ring or something. See I can say it I don't have a clue which is better. Earlier I got pointed to a tube that was RCA branded, which I never would have guessed in a million years it's what I would want. Anyway yea my head is gonna implode haha.


----------



## MarkUzzz

Hi guys. 
 I live in Russia, here on the forums are no any information about Aune T1.
 Please tell me how good it sounds? Worth buying it, or it is necessary to change the stock tube(6922)?


----------



## hdtv00

Yea it's worth buying, and necessary , no but people sure have fun tube rolling. I don't even have my unit yet and I've already bought 3 tubes.
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amperex-6DJ8-tube-/131155674736
  
 and these I bought too
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Orange-Globe-Pair-1969-Holland-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-tubes-Tested-87-70-96-70-/181294939655?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a36053e07
  
 Will they be great , who knows. But it's been fun reading the thread I'm up to page 133 or something.


----------



## Charliemotta

Sounds great. The stock EH 6922 is okay for starters then as you read more posts about tubes you can get others.


----------



## MarkUzzz

charliemotta said:


> Sounds great. The stock EH 6922 is okay for starters then as you read more posts about tubes you can get others.


 
 How expensive is worth a really good tube?


----------



## MarkUzzz

hdtv00 said:


> Yea it's worth buying, and necessary , no but people sure have fun tube rolling. I don't even have my unit yet and I've already bought 3 tubes.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amperex-6DJ8-tube-/131155674736
> 
> and these I bought too
> ...


 
 Really nice! You like how the stock tube​ sounds?


----------



## hdtv00

Tubes can vary in price wildly , but $20 -40 for decent ones not crazy. And some can cost $100 range.
  
 And I don't even know how I like the stock tube I haven't even got my unit yet and probably won't have it for couple weeks yet not sure. I'm just going by the 3400 posts and 210 pages I've read in this thread so far is how I'm judging what to get. The stock tube is bright , not as open from what I've read in the thread almost every single person has replaced it. I mean a Orange globe isn't that much really. And since you can use driver grade tubes with no issue it opens things up a little price wise too I'd imagine.
  
 The first post in this thread really does have just about everything. I have weeks probably till my unit comes so I just thought I'd read through the entire thread and take the journey they did just a year later. It's been a fun read so far.


----------



## hdtv00

Well tube reviews are on first page and also here
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294
  
 listed under...*Tube Reviews & Impressions:*
  
 Well before you get yelled at for being lazy and not trying to read haha. You MUST use usb input on it to use tube. You can use line out into a Amp or receiver and get tube benefit yes. Using line in as source bypasses tube totally.
  
 Oh you're in San Antonio huh, if you ever end up with killer tube I'm there from time to time my sister lives there you gotta let me come listen to your setup if you get killer tube haha.


----------



## kgomez1992

thanks for your response hd. trust me im all about reading my ass off but during school the last thing i have time to do is lurk on head fi sadly. 
  
 if my set up ever has an awesome tube or is even worthy youre more than welcome to listen to it haha


----------



## mikoss

kgomez1992 said:


> Hey guys i just ordered my Aune T1 from mass drop! There are just tooooooo many pages to read on this threat though and have yet to find exactly what im looking for. as far as tube rolling goes im looking for a tube that would be phenomenal for female vocals. i love to listen to melody gardot, norah jones, and similar music types. if any of you have any good recommendations please let me know! i will also be using my aune with some harx700 so if theres a specific tube that could pair greatly with this it would be ideal. i also plan on using my shure se215s. my other curiosity was what exactly includes the tube and what by passes it? if i use the usb in and rca out to an amp for speakers to i still have the tube? what excludes the tube on this baby?!?!?


 
 I love the Siemens E88CC for female vocals. It aids a beautiful airyness to the highs, with nice separation and sparkle. Mullard also makes great warm E88CC's. That would be my recommendation.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

To bypass the sound card on my computer totally, can you run the RCA outs on the T1 into a set of powered speakers and plug a pair of headphones into the headphone out when you want quiet operation without unplugged the speakers from the unit? It'll be connected to the computer via USB.


----------



## isendono

Yes


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Cheers, man.


----------



## JoshuaA

Yes to the first question but do we know output takes precedence through the headphone jack > audio RCA out the back?

(Such that headphones plugged in = no sound to the speakers; and unplugged = speaker sound?)

If so, I might change my setup. Using a Mac mini, I currently run sound out the headphone port to HK Soundsticks and USB out to the Aune. If I pull out the headphones, sound goes out the HKs. 
I was thinking of getting better speakers and using the Aune for them.


----------



## MrEleventy

isendono said:


> Yes


 I think he's asking if the Aune T1's RCAs have a muting relay where it would be muted if HPs are being used. Which would be no.


----------



## JoshuaA

That's the term, "muting relay". I couldn't think of it, lol. Thanks


----------



## AngryGoldfish

mreleventy said:


> I think he's asking if the Aune T1's RCAs have a muting relay where it would be muted if HPs are being used. Which would be no.


 
  
 Well, yes, I was asking this, but I was also seeing whether anyone would suggest against my plans, which is to run powered speakers via the tube buffering. It is a shame, though, that I'll have to pull out the from the speakers to disengage them when using headphones. I might have to look elsewhere.


----------



## hdtv00

Yea if you mean powering them via the line out unless they're really small speakers no. You can't someone else somewhere along the line asked the same question and the amp section isn't anywhere near that powerful. If you run line out to a receiver like I plan on doing letting the receiver then power them , yea you still get the tube sound doing that and I can't wait to hear my paradigm studio speakers hooked up to this, not to mention my HD 650's. It's like double bonus for me I feel like.


----------



## xEzio

Hey everyone, I'm waiting for my Aune T1 to come in the mail, looking to get a better tube to use with it. Mainly using it for gaming and music, but I do watch movies on the computer now and then.
  
 Computer
 Headphone: HD 558, AKG K702 and DT990 250ohm.
 Music: Everything, but mainly Hip-Hop, Rap, RnB and some EDM.
 Games: Mainly FPS (DayZ, CS:S, BF4, TF2). But any games.
  
 Budget: $100
  
 Thanks!


----------



## hk6230

Hi everyone,
  
 I'm a new owner of Aune T1 with 6922EH Tube. Bought it in China for RMB780 (~USD125). The packaging is great but the installation/setup instruction is very lacking. Though it will work natively with my Win7 system, but I wanted ASIO support with Foobar2000. From their website (www.auneaudio.com) you can download ASIO4ALL v2.8 but doesn't work very well with my system. (NB: I have another Cambridge Audio DACmagic 100 installed.) This may be the reason the stock device driver may be confused. Calling their helpdesk, their engineer was asking me to search the web for a solution. Duh. Anyway, found the latest beta version of ASIO4ALL (ver 2.11 Beta 2) which works great with Foobar2000. Even though T1 supposedly only plays 24bit/96kHz Flac, with the latest ASIO4ALL, it even plays all my 24bit/192kHz music. I believe it automatically downgrade to lower resolution.
  
 As I had it for only less than 2 days, overall I'm satisfied with its performance especially with headphones, which is my goal in the first place. Listening music with my PSB m4u 2 sounded great. Bass level is just right, not overly boomy, and I can lots of details. I believe over time, T1 will perform better. I had also tried the line-out connection from T1 to my solid state amp. Maybe it is new, the music doesn't sound bad but it is not on-par with my DacMagic 100 with ifi's iTube to my solid state amp. But then again just one of these components alone is more than twice the amount I paid for T1. So, T1 is definitely a value-for-money Tube DAC headphone amp. I'm looking forward to using it to drive my soon-to-arrive Philips Fidelio X1, and many more years of fun with it.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

hdtv00 said:


> Yea if you mean powering them via the line out unless they're really small speakers no. You can't someone else somewhere along the line asked the same question and the amp section isn't anywhere near that powerful. If you run line out to a receiver like I plan on doing letting the receiver then power them , yea you still get the tube sound doing that and I can't wait to hear my paradigm studio speakers hooked up to this, not to mention my HD 650's. It's like double bonus for me I feel like.


 
  
 Even for active/powered speakers?


----------



## HangzhouHIFI

Million dollar question: Telefunken ECC189 or Amperex 7308 gold pin?


----------



## hdtv00

Yea it'll be fine with active speakers.
  
 As for the million dollar question Hangz, BOTH.


----------



## jjacq

Here's two new cheapy tubes. I'm quite a fan of the JJ because I feel like the Electro Harmonix sounds a little bit too colored. Still waiting to win some amperex! Thanks for the advice guys.


----------



## HangzhouHIFI

Too much $$$ for both. Cost more than the T1 itself. I'd like to just buy one nice tube and leave it at that.


----------



## hk6230

Yes, T1 will work with active/powered speakers. For tube buffering function, you must use the USB. Line in on T1 will only be amped for headphone.


----------



## hk6230

Today, I just realized my T1 acts like a tube buffer when using its Line Out to my solid state amplifier. The volume knob doesn't increase/decrease volume on my amplifier. You can also use both the Line Out and headphone at the same time. After listening more than 20+ hours with my T1, I'm liking it more and more. I had ordered 4 different tubes to play with it. Will share my experience when I have more time with it and my new tubes.


----------



## hk6230

More testing today. A/B-ing comparing again T1->amp and DM100->iTube->amp, the latter setup blows the T1 setup. I suspect it may be down to two reasons: 1) TE7022 can only support USB data rate up to 24bit/96kHz, and 2) T1's DAC chip PCM1793 is not on par with DacMagic 100's Wolfson WM8742. The DM100  has more open-detailed soundstage. Plus, ifi iTube's 3D HolographicSound expands the soundstage further. Playing Bruno Mars' Locked Out of Heaven, T1 cracks on bass and treble not very clear. I thought my source file is bad, but DM100+iTube setup plays through the same song perfectly. Could this be the 6922EH tube? Or, maybe I have not burn-in T1 enough. 
  
 In any case, T1 is still a keeper as I like its interchangeable tube option and a cheap and good value-for-money tube-based DAC headphone amplifier. Looking forward to my new tubes arriving in 2-3 days time.


----------



## krelianx

I have a Fidelio X1 and a HD600; my Aune T1 is about to arrive in a few weeks or so. Anyone care to comment on these?
  
  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amperex-6DJ8-ecc88-Vintage-Tube-orange-globe-label-w-box-/111319652989?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item19eb2b1a7d


----------



## kgomez1992

I can't speak with certainty as I do not have my T1 yet, however it could be a combination of burn in and the tube leading to your discovery. I'm really interested in what you discover with more burn and some different tubes. Keep us updated!


----------



## BaTou069

Why is shipping so expensive? Over at tctubes.com: One small and light tube shipping costs:USPS Priority Mail Express International (EMS) $53.00 or USPS Priority Mail International $38.00 ....
 Strange, shipping electronics is cheaper


----------



## hk6230

kgomez1992 said:


> I can't speak with certainty as I do not have my T1 yet, however it could be a combination of burn in and the tube leading to your discovery. I'm really interested in what you discover with more burn and some different tubes. Keep us updated!


 

 Sure will do. I have already removed the tube protection brackets getting ready for swapping new tubes.


----------



## buestad

I have had my Aune T1 for a year now, and I have been very happy with it. In the beginning I got infected by the tube rolling disease, but luckily I recovered before I ended up buying ridiculously expensive Simens and Amperex tubes  My main tube has been the Voskhod 6N23P "rocket" and it has been powered on 24/7 a long time now. Before I turned the amp off when i left work (the amp sits om my work desk) but the last half year or so I have just let it stay on.
  
 The last week or so I have had some trouble with it. I get a strange heavy "digital" distortion. This typically happens in the morning when I start to listen and haven't used it for a while. I have to either plug out the USB cable or turn it off and on to get rid of it. Some times I just get a little distortion also, and this type I can only get rid of by pulling out the USB cable. This came up about when I got a new mouse which I plugged into the same USB Hub as the Anue (I have a lot of desktop USB devices so i need a hub...) I have now extended the USB cable of the Aune and plugged it directly into the PC, so I hope this will stay stable.
  
 Has anyone else had issues like this?


----------



## MarkUzzz

Aune t1 VS Audinst MX 2. What you think?)


----------



## boombobby289

Between Aune T1and Kasso YJ-01, which one has a clearer sound, wider soundstage, good separation, rich and detail, and deep extended bass. 
Which is one has better match with iBasso DX50?


----------



## hk6230

One of my new tubes. Should arrive tomorrow. Will provide my feedback on its performance.


----------



## MarkUzzz

boombobby289 said:


> Between Aune T1and Kasso YJ-01, which one has a clearer sound, wider soundstage, good separation, rich and detail, and deep extended bass.
> Which is one has better match with iBasso DX50?


 
  
 I had ibasso dx50 about two months ago, and my hifiman 601 had a very better sound, than ibasso dx50. DX50 is a bad source! ibasso have bright sound without bass.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

T1 + Crack SB + HD 600 = Awesome. But I still prefer Amperex OG 6DJ8 ECC88 than EH 6922.
  
 EH 6922, too airy, too laid back, less bass quantity but the rumbling can be quite large in amount, brighter, thinner, and guitar overpower drum in fast track, but more detail IMO.
  
 Single leg 6DJ8 ECC8, more energy, more bass impact, better instrument separation, thicker, warmer, better instrument separation.
  
 Can't stop listening to Metallica, Avenged Sevenfold, Toni Braxton, Andrea Bocelli.
  
 \m/


----------



## krelianx

hk6230 said:


> One of my new tubes. Should arrive tomorrow. Will provide my feedback on its performance.


 
 I got one of these too. Any idea how long does a tube last?


----------



## jjacq

Ummm which db setting should I put for Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro's?


----------



## MarkUzzz

Hi guys) Now i have only three questions.
  
 1) Aune t1 VS Audinst MX 2. What you think?)
  
 2) Can Aune reproduce very fast / complex music?  
  
 3) Is Aune for all genres? Rock, metal, ...?​


----------



## RTTO

krelianx said:


> I got one of these too. Any idea how long does a tube last?


 
  
 Don't know. But I'm using 6H30Pi EB.
  
 Rated for 5000~ 10000 hrs.


----------



## hojomojo96

Does anyone have thoughts on using the T1 paired with a Project Ember? Do you think there would be a noticeable improvement? (with LCD-2's)


----------



## spacequeen7

diaboliqu3 said:


> T1 + Crack SB + HD 600 = Awesome. But I still prefer Amperex OG 6DJ8 ECC88 than EH 6922.
> 
> EH 6922, too airy, too laid back, less bass quantity but the rumbling can be quite large in amount, brighter, thinner, and guitar overpower drum in fast track, but more detail IMO.
> 
> ...


 
 you should try Amperex-PQ-6085-E80CC in your Crack


----------



## hk6230

krelianx said:


> I got one of these too. Any idea how long does a tube last?


 

 Normally, a tube will last for 5000-10000 hours, I think.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

markuzzz said:


> Hi guys) Now i have only three questions.
> 
> 1) Aune t1 VS Audinst MX 2. What you think?)
> 
> ...


 

 1) Prefer Aune T1. Audinst MX 2 too laid back for me, for fast music.
 2) Pairing Crack with Aune T1. Even with T1 alone, I enjoy metal and EDM, but need warmer tube.
 3) Yes if you ask me, but better if you pair with warmer amp since T1 amp is too bright for me with EH 6922.


----------



## xEzio

Was this a good buy? It said it was the 7308 White Lable PQ.


----------



## hdtv00

How should we know xExio you didn't say how much you paid for it lol. Do you mean is it a nice tune , Yea I think it's pretty well reviewed as being very highly sound quality so says Salvatore and I'm pretty sure he is one of the top 3 people having listened to nearly every tube so..
  
 "
*Amperex 7308 White Label PQ:* Combines the best qualities of both orange globe and telefunken. Feels natural and has proper punch when needed. The bass is simply perfect and the overall sound manages to be very transparent, airy and highly detailed without being cold. Lots of layers which help you discover new interesting things from your favorite tracks. This tube just seems to have it all. Listen some quality jazz recordings and you can easily hear all the brushes and strokes of individual instruments.
  
 Sound stage: *******½*
 Imaging: *******½*
 Transparency: *********½*
 Total: 13*½* / 15"


----------



## BaTou069

hdtv00 said:


> How should we know xExio you didn't say how much you paid for it lol. Do you mean is it a nice tune , Yea I think it's pretty well reviewed as being very highly sound quality so says Salvatore and I'm pretty sure he is one of the top 3 people having listened to nearly every tube so..
> 
> "
> *Amperex 7308 White Label PQ:* Combines the best qualities of both orange globe and telefunken. Feels natural and has proper punch when needed. The bass is simply perfect and the overall sound manages to be very transparent, airy and highly detailed without being cold. Lots of layers which help you discover new interesting things from your favorite tracks. This tube just seems to have it all. Listen some quality jazz recordings and you can easily hear all the brushes and strokes of individual instruments.
> ...


 
  
 When people refer to white/orange label, do they refer on the color of the print on the tube itself, or is this the real tubes name?
 Also could you say how much you payed for the tube and where you got it from? online/store...
 Thanks


----------



## hdtv00

Yea it literally mean label color printed on the tube.


----------



## hk6230

I come to understand that Philips PCC189 is 7.6V/300mA and 6922-variants are 6.3V. Can Aune T1 support Philips PCC189 plug-n-play?


----------



## MarkUzzz

diaboliqu3 said:


> 1) Prefer Aune T1. Audinst MX 2 too laid back for me, for fast music.
> 2) Pairing Crack with Aune T1. Even with T1 alone, I enjoy metal and EDM, but need warmer tube.
> 3) Yes if you ask me, but better if you pair with warmer amp since T1 amp is too bright for me with EH 6922.


 
 Thanks! What do you mean about warmer tube? Examples?)


----------



## buestad

hk6230 said:


> I come to understand that Philips PCC189 is 7.6V/300mA and 6922-variants are 6.3V. Can Aune T1 support Philips PCC189 plug-n-play?


 
 Yes. I have it


----------



## diaBoliQu3

markuzzz said:


> Thanks! What do you mean about warmer tube? Examples?)


 
 The tube is warm, not cold like other tube. Lol. Just kidding. I mean warmer sound. I don't know how to explain.  Mostly people will recommend Amperex OG 6DJ8, best bang for buck I tell ya mate.


----------



## MarkUzzz

diaboliqu3 said:


> The tube is warm, not cold like other tube. Lol. Just kidding. I mean warmer sound. I don't know how to explain.  Mostly people will recommend Amperex OG 6DJ8, best bang for buck I tell ya mate.


 
 Yes, i understand)


----------



## hdtv00

Warmer means more presence of bass sound usually in the Mid range, bloated means to much bass, and so on


----------



## hk6230

My new Amperex JAN 7308 tube. Imprint said it is made in USA. First hour test proves it sounds better than the 6922EH. Tighter bass, better imaging, better mids, better vocals. Need to spend more listening to it.So far listening to Diana Krall, Michael Jackson, Norah Jones, Daniel Pewter and Robbie Williams, is more enjoyable. Cost me RMB275 (USD45).


----------



## hk6230

coil said:


> Thats weird because like I`ve said many times - Aune T1 does not drow any power from usb.


 

 May I know how you remove/cut the +5V signal?


----------



## ElBartoME

hk6230 said:


> May I know how you remove/cut the +5V signal?


 
 You need to open the cable and then cut the wire.
  

  
 Or you can drill through the USB A header until the pin for the 5V supply is gone.


----------



## hk6230

coil said:


> I have some tubes that are littlebit microphonic (sensitive to tapping) but will tube damper make bass tighter? Sorry, still think it`s bs.
> 
> edit: Btw, bought another tube - NOS NIB Siemens PCC189/7ES8, for 6.5€



Envy you that you can buy tubes at great prices.


----------



## hk6230

Ok almost half way through this thread. Keep going.


----------



## walfredo

Hi Folks!!
  
 I am back.   Things have changed a bit in my system.  I now use the aune only as a DAC (never liked its amp, anyhow)... in fact, it has taken place as my main DAC, replacing my Peachtree Nova on that.
  
 Anyhow, I am writing to tell I found an absolutely fantastic tube for it.  6N23P Refektor.   
  
 It really takes the little aune for the next level.  The sound clean, almost crisp, yet involving and musical.  Bass is awesome.  Mids are sweet.  Treble sparkles.  The whole thing is just full body and tasty. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 It clearly passed the Amperex Orange Globes (not an easy feat).
  
 []s
 Walfredo


----------



## jjacq

So I'm planning to use the Aune T1 for DAC only use. I would like to know if there's a difference in amp/dac usage when you're using the front or back outputs.
  
 Computer > Aune T1 > Objective2 amplifier(via headphone jack) > LCD-2 
                     |
                  KRK Rokit's (Via RCA)
  
 Between the RCA and headphone jack, would plugging it on either part allow the Aune T1 to function as DAC only or is there a switch...?
  
 Well I feel kinda stupid, is it the switch next to the knob?

 Thanks.


----------



## MrEleventy

If you want to plug in speakers as well, you might want to look at a difference amp than the O2. Something with a preamp out like Fiio E09/k. You can get a E09/k for about the same, maybe less, than a O2.


----------



## hdtv00

jjacq said:


> So I'm planning to use the Aune T1 for DAC only use. I would like to know if there's a difference in amp/dac usage when you're using the front or back outputs.
> 
> Computer > Aune T1 > Objective2 amplifier(via headphone jack) > LCD-2
> |
> ...


 

 After reading half the thread I thought someone said you don't do anything it outputs both always.


----------



## MrEleventy

The front switch affects the HP jack and just the hp phone jack. It switches the input from usb to rca in.


----------



## MrEleventy

jjacq said:


> So I'm planning to use the Aune T1 for DAC only use. I would like to know if there's a difference in amp/dac usage when you're using the front or back outputs.
> 
> Computer > Aune T1 > Objective2 amplifier(via headphone jack) > LCD-2
> |
> ...


Also, keep in mind that the speakers will always be on in that configuration. You'll have to unplug or turn the volume down on the speakers every time.


----------



## jjacq

mreleventy said:


> Also, keep in mind that the speakers will always be on in that configuration. You'll have to unplug or turn the volume down on the speakers every time.




Yeah I know. I have them right now with just the Aune T1 and I use a separate power strip to kill it.

And alright that's good to know about the front switch. What about the rear RCA out though, is it always amp+dac signal?


----------



## MrEleventy

jjacq said:


> Yeah I know. I have them right now with just the Aune T1 and I use a separate power strip to kill it.
> 
> And alright that's good to know about the front switch. What about the rear RCA out though, is it always amp+dac signal?



RCA out bypasses the amp . HP is dac + amp.


----------



## MrEleventy

Another way to "kill" the rca signal is to plug it into a switchbox. So if you're not listening, just switch to the empty slot and the music will stop.


----------



## jjacq

mreleventy said:


> Another way to "kill" the rca signal is to plug it into a switchbox. So if you're not listening, just switch to the empty slot and the music will stop.


 
  
  


mreleventy said:


> RCA out bypasses the amp . HP is dac + amp.


 
  
 The switchbox is a neat idea, is there a way to bypass the amp via the headphone jack though?


----------



## krelianx

Can somebody please help me?

 I just got my Aune T1, and I'm trying to set it up but I'm very confused. I have an ASUS G73SW laptop, and a pair of HD600s. So I got the amp running in usb mode, and have connected the USB directly to the computer, but I hear nothing. The instructions mention that one ought to plug to the line-out one's speakers or whatever, but I'm running this directly from the laptop. The sound is still coming out of the laptop's speakers.

 How does this work?


----------



## isendono

on the bottom right corner of your laptop screen near the date/time , right click on the audio/speaker icon ( the one that control your volume control) , then click play back device , set auneT1 (spdif interface) to the default playback device, apply , done.


----------



## Chs177

krelianx said:


> Can somebody please help me?
> 
> I just got my Aune T1, and I'm trying to set it up but I'm very confused. I have an ASUS G73SW laptop, and a pair of HD600s. So I got the amp running in usb mode, and have connected the USB directly to the computer, but I hear nothing. The instructions mention that one ought to plug to the line-out one's speakers or whatever, but I'm running this directly from the laptop. The sound is still coming out of the laptop's speakers.
> 
> How does this work?


 

 Aune T1 looks like another sound card that you inserted "into" your laptop.
 Your operating system (I think that it is windows) and software (music players, etc) is still using first (integrated in your laptop) sound card.
 You could change it in the system settings and/or in the music players settings.


----------



## buestad

buestad said:


> I have had my Aune T1 for a year now, and I have been very happy with it. In the beginning I got infected by the tube rolling disease, but luckily I recovered before I ended up buying ridiculously expensive Simens and Amperex tubes  My main tube has been the Voskhod 6N23P "rocket" and it has been powered on 24/7 a long time now. Before I turned the amp off when i left work (the amp sits om my work desk) but the last half year or so I have just let it stay on.
> 
> The last week or so I have had some trouble with it. I get a strange heavy "digital" distortion. This typically happens in the morning when I start to listen and haven't used it for a while. I have to either plug out the USB cable or turn it off and on to get rid of it. Some times I just get a little distortion also, and this type I can only get rid of by pulling out the USB cable. This came up about when I got a new mouse which I plugged into the same USB Hub as the Anue (I have a lot of desktop USB devices so i need a hub...) I have now extended the USB cable of the Aune and plugged it directly into the PC, so I hope this will stay stable.
> 
> Has anyone else had issues like this?


 
 Five days have passed and no distortion. Connecting the Aune T1 directly to my computer solved the issue. Probably to much data through the USB hub after getting the new laser mouse was the issue.


----------



## hk6230

buestad said:


> Five days have passed and no distortion. Connecting the Aune T1 directly to my computer solved the issue. Probably to much data through the USB hub after getting the new laser mouse was the issue.


 
 I encountered this problem before. I believe it was after I had plug in other USB peripherals or played some audio to other audio output. I suspect doing such could have caused the interference to T1 driver.


----------



## krelianx

chs177 said:


> Aune T1 looks like another sound card that you inserted "into" your laptop.
> Your operating system (I think that it is windows) and software (music players, etc) is still using first (integrated in your laptop) sound card.
> You could change it in the system settings and/or in the music players settings.


 
 Thanks, I got it to work!


----------



## Salvatore

Info post updated with new DIY section (*ElBartoME*'s led color mod). *mikoss* could you combine your tube reviews into one post so i can link them to the info post. I would also appreciated if somebody could do easy to follow step by step guide for changing caps (*ElBartoME* has good start in this post: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4830#post_10355229 maybe just edit it to more instructional style).
  
 Keep enjoying your T1 people, peace!


----------



## hdtv00

Ok so I've read up to page 155 or so of the thread and I just now got my unit. First I'll say for Senn HD 650's 0 gain isn't enough, only by slightly but having to have it 100 vol on the knob I boosted it up to 10db. Loudness is fine there really.
  
 So my first thoughts, I'd been using Purity Sound that supports 600 ohm from Asus onboard amp from motherboard. Anyway With stock tube, I felt well not really that much difference really is what I'd been listening to for the last few weeks. Having warmed up only an hour or so. Yes I'm using usb foobar wasi etc etc . So really I felt I really honestly hadn't gained much if anything.
  
 BUT then I changed to one of the Single leg dimpled disc GAC coded Heerlen made orange globe I got from ebay. Almost instantly even with very short warm up time the highs came alive in a way I've never heard before ever from any device. I'm not sitting here with my mouth wide open in shock but man yea it's very pleasing indeed.
  
 I have another Single leg dimpled disc GAC coded Heerlen made orange globe to test and a bugle boy too so looking forward.
  
 Listening to Fleetwood Mac's Never going back again 24 bit 96 and man that guitar is just singing, literally.
  
 I'll add I can also see how some people can't hear it. To some people music is just noise I think, like having a tv on in the background when doing stuff. For the price I paid it's a steal of improvement really. Now to resist turning into Coil and Salvatore and becoming a tube hording mad man.


----------



## isendono

hdtv00 said:


> Now to resist turning into Coil and Salvatore and becoming a tube hording mad man.


 
 dont even try, you will give in eventually with tubes in your drawer. ;D


----------



## MrEleventy

Just one of my boxes....



Ruuuuuun!


----------



## rwpritchett

It seems like most of the good tubes are sold in matched pairs, thereby doubling the cost for us single tube Aune T1 owners. Has anybody set up a system where two head-fi'ers share the cost and split a pair?

Just curious if anybody has done it and how the experience was.


----------



## hdtv00

They talked about that earlier in this thread. I've read every post up to page 157 or so. Not sure if they went ahead and ordered together but to me wouldn't be that different than for sale forum anyone with good feedback you could probably trust.
  
 Here are more thoughts so far.
   Well the stock tube to me sounded very similar to what I had been using Purity Audio from my motherboard. Maybe very slightly better perhaps but to close to say. However the second I put in my Single leg dimpled disc GAC coded Heerlen made OG`s Orange Globe Amperex , LOOK OUT. Wow nice nice highs and great balance overall. Loving it now. Was a steal at $130, saved enough to buy that Orange globe, two of them actually. And they're only the dimple version but loving it.
 I also don't think the bugle boy is as good as Single leg dimpled disc GAC coded Heerlen made OG`s Orange Globe either, seems very very close to stock tube to me.


----------



## hk6230

joeq70 said:


> I use mine with speakers (see sig for setup) and it sounds great. I am pretty unknowledgeable about speakers, though, so I can't say if the T1 is better than X, Y, or Z. I can tell you that tube-swapping definitely makes a difference to how the speakers sound and that the best tube for headphones is not necessarily the best tube for speakers.


 
 This I concur. Still listening endlessly whenever I have time to find the my preferred tube for T1.


----------



## Kalai

Okay, I plan on buying an aune t1 with a 6n23p tube for my dt880 pro headphones. Is this a good setup? could it be better?


----------



## hdtv00

I also want to laugh at whoever somewhere around page 130-150 who said he didn't hear anything great , refused to swap tubes or bother to try, just how much I'm laughing at that fella now. Yea I felt bout same with stock tube, it's pretty nice. But New tubes , yea buddy lol. Anyway lots of hours on my 3 tubes no stock ones anyway. 10 hours today I bet. Good times.
  
 I'll also say I think my end game is this with a bottlehead crack with speedball. Just saying. This thing really brings to life the HD 650's LOVE it.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

hdtv00 said:


> Ok so I've read up to page 155 or so of the thread and I just now got my unit. First I'll say for Senn HD 650's 0 gain isn't enough, only by slightly but having to have it 100 vol on the knob I boosted it up to 10db. Loudness is fine there really.
> 
> So my first thoughts, I'd been using Purity Sound that supports 600 ohm from Asus onboard amp from motherboard. Anyway With stock tube, I felt well not really that much difference really is what I'd been listening to for the last few weeks. Having warmed up only an hour or so. Yes I'm using usb foobar wasi etc etc . So really I felt I really honestly hadn't gained much if anything.
> 
> ...


 
  
 That's interesting because I'm also currently using the Purity Sound chip on my ASRock motherboard, which is made by Asus, and I was considering the T1 for a headphone amp. If I do go for it, I'll definitely pick up a few tubes to mess about with if it makes that much a difference. I thought maybe it was just fine-tuning your specific preference in sound, but it appears it makes a rather large difference overall.


----------



## cMags1206

Sorry for sounding like a noob but i just bought the aune T1 and i had a question about using it. I've been searching around, but I couldn't find any answer to my question.
  
 Is there a certain order of plugging in my source through usb, my headphones, and warming up the tubes that i should follow? For example, should I plug in my source and headphones, and then warm up the tube, or vice versa? Does it matter?


----------



## DMax99

I don't think it matters apart from the fact that t1 won't make any sound until the tube is warmed up (usually you will hear a faint click sound)


----------



## cMags1206

O ok thanks. And does it matter for when turning off the T1? Should I turn it off before unplugging everything or does it not matter then either?


----------



## isendono

cmags1206 said:


> O ok thanks. And does it matter for when turning off the T1? Should I turn it off before unplugging everything or does it not matter then either?


 
 just turn off the aune t1 and leave everything connected if you want.


----------



## hdtv00

So ok I listened to headphones for first 24 hrs only . But now I just connected the unit via it's RCA outs into my receiver which run Paradigm Studio 100's series v3 and OMG. Forget headphones good lord I finally realize why these speakers cost over $3000 now . WHOLE other ballgame people. I'm near speechless. First song I played I just literally started laughing within 30 seconds of hearing the highs and the bass so pure and sweet. It's just unreal.
  
 Have receiver on Direct so its DAC or tone and bass controls aren't altering the sound at all. It's just pure joy..
  
 And there are better tubes out there ...haha seriously. Insanity. I just don't know what to say. Best $130 I've ever spent in my life. Only complaint is I didn't realize how many 192khz tracks I had so that's pretty much a bummer. Can't foobar downsample them and play them out so T1 can handle it? Also I have ripped blu ray concerts into 5.1 and it won't play them back either, my on board audio would just bring all channels together for stereo playback even though it was 5.1 not the T1 I guess. Those are pretty big issues as they are some of the most listened to stuff I have but oh well either way this thing performs WAY WAY beyond it's price.
  
 I seriously was just in it to check it out and resell it on trade forum here but I don't think there is any way now I will ever do that...unless they come out with 192khz version. Magical
  
 This little thing can transform music into pure joy.
  
 EDIT after spending just 5 minutes searching yea got plugin to down mix 192 into 96khz. Also already has plugin built in to mix to stereo from multichannel. So sweet, although I'll rerip my blu rays into stereo flac instead of multichannel flac.


----------



## spacequeen7

rwpritchett said:


> It seems like most of the good tubes are sold in matched pairs, thereby doubling the cost for us single tube Aune T1 owners. Has anybody set up a system where two head-fi'ers share the cost and split a pair?
> 
> Just curious if anybody has done it and how the experience was.


 
 I'm letting few go if you interested 
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/714349/12au7-6922-ecc88-6dj8-6sn7-etc


----------



## hk6230

sarurururu said:


> Hi CoiL,
> 
> Thanks for your detailed tube recommendation last time. Please keep us posted about your wooden box project
> 
> ...


 
 May I know what brand is the socket underneath the Tele PCC189 tube? And how much is it? Does it affect the sound/performance of T1?


----------



## isendono

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOVIB-Socket-Saver-with-Vibration-Redu-Plug-Play-9-pin-B9A-NOT-Made-in-China-/161065066374?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item258039df86


----------



## hk6230

coil said:


> Spoiler: Pic & code about GAC
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Reading this, it makes me try hooking my T1 -> ifi iTube -> Yamaha A-S201 -> PSB m4u2 (hp). Great resolution. Wonder if iTube covers or improve T1 sounds. More testing required. But I'm a happy man. This thread is fantastic, teaching me to explore all options to improve my listening experience.


----------



## hk6230

ophiel said:


> If u're using the T1 just for the amp, you could have gotten better ones such as the o2 or the iCan that I'm using(these are dedicated amps, not dac+amp like the t1). You could use ur soundcard as dac and the T1's amp, but what's the point? The Dac of the T1 will definitely be better.


 
 ho ho. Saw your signature (audio bliss!) with iCAN. I'm thinking of buying one for myself.


----------



## hk6230

Been playing music from morning till now (almost 22:00), switching back and forth between my Amperex 6DJ8/ECC88 and 7308. As Coil pointed out, my 6DJ8 is not the same as THE "must have tube" in every T1 owners' collection. Nevertheless, I still enjoy my 6DJ8 over 7308. Vocal and mids are clearer and bass is just right for me (firm). My music genres mainly jazz, pop, blues and some classical. It's not easy to get quality tubes here in China at reasonable prices. And, of course, there are many fake ones, too.
  
 Anyway, on first listening test basis and selected my preference amongst Amperex JAN 7308 (orange label), 6DJ8, Tesla PCC88, Siemens ECC88, Tungsram E88CC and my stock 6922EH is 6DJ8.


----------



## MarkUzzz

Hi guys.
  
 I'm choosing between: Aune T1, Audinst MX2, Maverick Audio D1+
  
 Which of these would be the best DAC on the sound? 
 I want a sound that is close to the analog, lively and natural sound.


----------



## hdtv00

Well few quick shots of when I first placed it and the later when I hooked it up to my studio 100's. Man loving it, pure joy.


----------



## Sarurururu

Goodday mate,
  
 I ordered mine directly from www.tubemonger.com and I think it's the same as isendono suggested ordering from ebay. Personally I cannot hear any sonic difference but that's only my little piece of opinion. However, if you're going to roll tubes, this little gadget might be worthwhile to invest since the original socket on T1 is VERY tight, making it difficult to swab tubes and I'm afraid one day I might pull the whole thing off from the circuit board.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
 Will


----------



## Salvatore

hdtv00 said:


> Also I have ripped blu ray concerts into 5.1


 
  
 Just curious what blu ray concerts you have. Been collecting them for a while and always ready to take in good suggestions. Latest purchase was Joe Cocker Fire It Up. Really nice disc, but had to order it from Germany.


----------



## hdtv00

Lot and lots of HD TRACKS albums plus these blu ray and Blu ray audio disks. Oh and man dvd-audio disks too but that's a whole other list.****** means the best of the best sound quality if you ask me.
 Adele
 Aerosmith (BDA- Blu Ray audio disk)
 AIX Records HD music sampler
 Alicia Keys
 Bee Gees
 Bob Marley Legend (BDA)
 Bryan Adams
 Chris Botti ******
 Crosby Still and Nash
 Dark Side of the Moon (BDA) ******
 Dave Matthews ******
 Diana Krall
 Eagles Farewell Live From Melbourne ******
 Elton 60
 Genesis Selling england by the pound (BDA)
 John Lennon Imagine (BDA)
 John Mayer ******
 Kings of Leon
 Korn
 Nirvana In Utero (BDA)
 Nirvana Nevermind (BDA)
 Pink
 Queen Night at Opera (BDA) ******
 Regina Spektor
 REO Speedwagon
 Sheryl Crow
 Stone Temple Pilots (BDA)
 The Cure Trilogy Live
  
 HDTRACKS
 Areosmith hits
 Alicia Keys Songs in Minor
 Bob Marley Legend
 Cat Stevens tea for tillerman
 Dr Chesky's Sensations , fantastic etc etc Binural Sound show ******
 Eagles many albums
 Fleetwood Mac 3 albums fav is Rumours ******
 Foreigner 4 ******
 Glen Hansard Rhythm and Repose ******
 Prince LOTS of albums
 Hootie and blowfish
 Joni Mitchell hissing summer lawns
 Joss Stone soul session vol 2
 lionel richie cant slow down
 Lorde ******
 Madonna 3 albums
 Metallica
 Michael Jackson Bad and Thriller
 Miles Davis Kind of Blue
 Moby
 Nirvana Nevermind
 Norah Jones come away and broken hearts albums
 Pearl Jam Vs
 Phil Colins But seriously and Face Value
 Queen The Game ******
 Shania Twain Up
 Stever Wonder songs in minor
 Stone TEmple Pilots Core
 Usher 8701
 Yes 90125
  
 THe thing that blows my mind is just how great a plain cd sounds too. And I can now finally see how mp3's suck total ass. They are nearly as lively as lossless cd.


----------



## rwpritchett

hk6230 said:


> Been playing music from morning till now (almost 22:00), switching back and forth between my Amperex 6DJ8/ECC88 and 7308. As Coil pointed out, my 6DJ8 is not the same as THE "must have tube" in every T1 owners' collection. Nevertheless, I still enjoy my 6DJ8 over 7308.




I'm having a similar experience. I purchased a USN 7308 NOS vintage gold pin as my first tube to swap out the stock 6922EH. A couple weeks ago, I saw an Amperex 6DJ8/ECC88 white label on eBay for $5 shipped and snatched it up. I found the 6DJ8 was more to my liking than the 7308... and I paid 1/10 the price of the 7308. Now I'm on the hunt for a good deal on an orange globe a frame to try out, or a cheap bugle boy.


----------



## hdtv00

Man we need a trading program for these tubes. I have another Single leg dimpled disc GAC coded Heerlen made Orange Globe and a bugle boy I'd consider trading if nothing more than to just hear without having to buy some of the costly tubes. After all we can only listen to one tube at a time I really don't want to own 80 tubes to find my fav one or two.


----------



## Salvatore

Good taste bro. I might buy that Dave Matthews disc (especially if gravedigger is in there). Other interesting discs/artists are already covered. Get Jeff Beck at Ronnie Scott's. No collection is complete without that one. It's easily one of my best discs


----------



## Ophiel

hk6230 said:


> ho ho. Saw your signature (audio bliss!) with iCAN. I'm thinking of buying one for myself.


 
 Uh oh. Now i'm embarrassed to say that I have switched to a solid state dac


----------



## mikoss

Enjoying all the new posts from the last week or so, glad to hear everyone is enjoying their new tubes. 
  
 Just a recommendation that I've been using my Aune T1 as a DAC to a new Yamaha AS500 amp to Monitor Audio Silver 1 speakers and it sounds very nice. I've been listening with headphones previously and wanted to get speakers that could represent everything the same way I'd been enjoying it on my ears. The Yamaha really is an amazing amp... very detailed, clear, natural sounding. Speakers only have a couple of hours on them so far and they're also great but bright for my liking, and the soundstage is still tight. Waiting for them to open up over the next few weeks. 
  
 Will get some more time this week to roll some tubes and do a condensed one post write-up as well. Also love that recommendation to split some pairs up... I'll take a look at what I have and maybe offer some up as well.


----------



## MarkUzzz

Hi guys =)
  
*Aune T1 vs. Maverick Audio D1+ vs. Audinst HUD-MX2*
  
_What you think? Which of these DAC would be the best on the audio quality?_


----------



## mikoss

markuzzz said:


> Hi guys =)
> 
> *Aune T1 vs. Maverick Audio D1+ vs. Audinst HUD-MX2*
> 
> _What you think? Which of these DAC would be the best on the audio quality?_


 
 What kind of setup were you going to be using the DACs with? Any particular headphones or speakers? What kind of music genres are you into?
  
 I haven't heard the Maverick Audio D1, or the Audinst HUD-MX2, but taking a very quick look at some sites and specs, here a few things to consider:
  
 DAC chips:
 Aune T1 - Burr Brown 1793 
 Maverick Audio D1 - headfi thread suspects CS 4334...
 Audinst HUD-MX2 - Burr Brown 1796 
  
 Tube rolling:
 Aune and Maverick use tubes and can be rolled for different audio flavours.
  
 Bitperfect streaming:
 Aune does 24/96 max.
 Maverick Doesn't do bitperfect USB playback, unless you go with the D1 Plus, which is a bit more $... look here. 
 Audinst does 24/96 USB and 24/192 S/PDIF.
  
 Pricing:
 Aune T1 $182 (ebay)
 Maverick D1 $179, D1 Plus $209 - $254 depending on tube/opamp + shipping ($30 or so)
 Audinst $248 (ebay)
  
 Having that quick look, I couldn't recommend one over the other without giving them a listen. Good luck.


----------



## MarkUzzz

Yes, i know specifications of these DACs. Thanks)
  
 You ask me about phones and genres.
  
 Genres: oldschool rock, pop, _synthpop._
  
Headphones: Beyerdynamic DT 770.
  
  
  
  
  
 ​


----------



## bibas

Hi, I bought the T1 after reading the thread but my confuse about the tubes. I know the tubes are for the DAC so if I just connect the T1 to my laptop will the tubes be used or will it be bypassed? This got me confuse. Hope you guys can help me out on this.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## hdtv00

You connect it to your laptop using usb, and it uses the DAC yes. As long as you don't use the rca inputs to get sound into the T1 it's using the DAC, even if you use the RCA outs to a receiver or other amp it's still using DAC.


----------



## bibas

hdtv00 said:


> You connect it to your laptop using usb, and it uses the DAC yes. As long as you don't use the rca inputs to get sound into the T1 it's using the DAC, even if you use the RCA outs to a receiver or other amp it's still using DAC.




So it does use the tubes then. Thanks for the info. Clears my mind. Now waiting for it to arrive.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## hdtv00

Yep as long as you use the usb input it will use the DAC/Tube yes. I found the stock tube to be really no different than anything else I've been hearing for years. Although when I swapped out the tube then instantly I heard what the big deal is, I don't even care about my headphones anymore. I have it hooked up to pc usb then RCA outs into my receiver and it just sounds magical on my home theater speakers.


----------



## bibas

hdtv00 said:


> Yep as long as you use the usb input it will use the DAC/Tube yes. I found the stock tube to be really no different than anything else I've been hearing for years. Although when I swapped out the tube then instantly I heard what the big deal is, I don't even care about my headphones anymore. I have it hooked up to pc usb then RCA outs into my receiver and it just sounds magical on my home theater speakers.


 
 My first step into audiophile world with he40 and T1. Really interested in hearing tube amps and trying out different tubes.
 Lots of recommendation on the thread. Will get a new tube soon!!


----------



## H20Fidelity

I borrowed an Aune T1 from a member as I was interested in buying. I can safely say within 30 minutes of listening I'm jumping onboard.

 Was originally for a pair of SHR940 which I don't think pair terribly well, I actually prefer my SHR440 with it instead.

 I'll be making the purchase after Easter break. 

 Btw: Tube 6922


----------



## hdtv00

If you would've had an Orange Globe in there it would've only taken 30 seconds instead of 30 minutes. I'll have to go back and put stock tube in one day but I was so unimpressed with it I actually regretted buying a T1 at first. That is until I changed the tube.


----------



## SpiderNhan

I made a Windows icon for the silver Aune T1 if anyone is interested. I can't post *.ico files can so I can email it to you if you want it. Here's what it looks like in the control panel.
  
 *Edit: I made one for the black Aune, too.*


----------



## abhinit90

^^Be great if you could send me the .ico files of the Aune T1 in black.


----------



## hdtv00

Sent the black one to ya since I'm still up. It's pretty sweet, thanks again SpiderNahn


----------



## abhinit90

^^Thanks for doing it hdtv00 (would love to hear the story behind your username) though, and thanks to SpiderNahn for creating it :cheers:


----------



## hdtv00

Story very simple. I got my first hdtv in 2000 so I went with hdtv00 14 years ago when I first started going online, well ok not first started to but when I settled in. Good times.


----------



## abhinit90

^^Nice to hear, I was a bit late jumping to the hdtv bandwagon


----------



## H20Fidelity

What country plug does the Aune come with stock. I'm trying to locate a ??? to Australian adapter.

 I have a universal adapter here, but it is a little loose, I want something higher quality. 

 Edit: Found the answer: UK plug.


----------



## incude

Macbook pro right side usb port only plays in 16 bit mode, let's call it port A.
 Change to left side usb port (port B), it works full 24. Use usb hub (ports C) and it also works with 24 bit support.
  
 However the 16 bit mode in-between port A and ports B to C is quite different. I'm using a HD600 and I notice that port A the sound is more forward, the bass is punchier, in port B to C the sound is more neutral, cleaner.
  
 Can anyone with a mac reproduce or confirm this effect? Thanks 
  
 EDIT:
 Connecting to port A the kernel reports:
 "17/04/14 10:25:36,000 kernel[0]: USBF:    5704.586    There is not enough USB isochronous bandwidth to allow the device "DigiHug USB Audio" at location 0x14500000 to function in its current configuration (requested 582 bytes for endpoint 0x3 )"
  
 - Port B through 3.0 USB hub does not play 24 bit, no kernel output.
 - Port B through 2.0 USB hub plays 24 bit.
  
 My hypothesis is that OSX kernel is rather strict when it comes to managing USB devices, each port should be able to play full 24bit. They are all USB 3.0 so with a couple of connected devices bandwidth shouldn't be an issue.
  
 What may be happening is that the kernel is assigning isochronous support to at least one port when enumerating them at boot up. Further devices don't seem to be able to request this privilege, which is strange.
  
 EDIT2:
 In MIDI configurations setting 16 bit input allows the output to be set up to 24bit. Thread with science.


----------



## spacequeen7

got to get the first batch ...should be here in few days 
_Aune X1 *Pro* DAC / Headphone Amplifier 24bit/192 khz DSD _
  

  
 Performance Specifications:
 Full Name 
 · X1 Pro 24BIT MINI USB DAC
 Highlights:
 X1 Pro 24bit mini USB DAC can be used as :
 · High quality PC/USB soundcard/DAC
 · High quality headphone amp
 · high quality pre-amp
 color
 · Black
 Size
 ·135*51*170(mm)
   Material and Special design
 · New X shape appearance design with high-grade abrasive blasting surface.
 · Laser carved panels , more refined and more wear-resistant.
 Operator interface
 · Two-color LED indicator display the current working status, it is easy for night operation.
 ·Concave button design , fit your fingers comfortably with less fatigue.
 · Thread volume knob design , Comfortable and convenient.
 Technology Design
 Modular functional design , full expansion interface equipped.
 External power adapter ,less interference.
 3) Concave button design , fit your fingers more comfortable , two-color LED indicator display.
 4) Modular functional design , full expansion interface.
 5) *High quality KOA, WIMA ,NICHICON* components used.
 Specifications:
 Input SPIF×1 Coaxial*1 USB（1.0）×1 Analog RCA *1
 Output Analog RCA*1 6.5mm headphone*1
 Frequency 20HZ---20KHZ (+/-0.5dB)
 THD + N <0.00227% (-92.8dB)@20khz Unweight 
 Headphone output 0.05%
 Input choose USB/SPDIF ×1 Analog/ digital ×1
 Headphone output P－PMAX：10V
 Headphone output impedance : 32 ohm---600 ohm
 Line output 2Vrms
 Power input DC12－18V 500mA
 Size （chassis ） 135*51*170 (mm)
  
_Now the X1MK2 has been upgraded to the Aune X1 "Pro" DAC: (Limited to only a few world wide for the first batch) _
_Upgrades include USB section from PCM2707 to 24BIT TE7022, the entire USB section of the entire unit can reach to 24BIT which allows for pristine and uninterrupted performance. _
_Aune X1 Pro functions :_
_1. 24BIT USB DAC function —this function is the upgrade of Pro version._
_The unit adopts TE TE7022 to reach computer voice signal receiving sections.
 Through the USB, interface receives the computer signal directly, using I2S output via the same as TI PCM1793 produced by DAC chip for decoding, and then to the Line Out or expander ear sound output._
_2. 24bit/192K DAC:_
_The unit is provided with a coaxial ( Coaxial ) digital input. Using the ratio as low as 5PS WM8805 receiver chip, the coaxial line receives signal from the CD/DVD and the 24BIT player digital signal can be passed to the machine's DAC chip PCM1793 for decoding, like general CD/DVD turntable sound marked ascending, and can pass through the Line Out output connection to the external amplifiers or through the expander ear output to the headset to enjoy music. This machine is a super cost-effective 24BIT/192K scheme_
_3. Headphone AMP:_
_Ear expanding/Headphone section adopts OP+BUF frame line and can improve direct DAC transmissions, but also external larger equipment using Omron signal dedicated relay (Relay ) signal set change, by Line In ( RCA a ) input external analog signal (Analog ) such as CD/ DVD machine. Output, the existing DAC analog signal, and even an IPod sound output (requires adapter through the Lineout output signal )_
_4 . Pre-AMP:_
_This feature of Aune X1 Pro has special functionality and can independently volume levels. LINE IN to line OUT volume control, and may choose to DAC output volume controllable, all controlled by single chip microcomputer_


----------



## hk6230

When it is available, I will give it a try.
  
 Quote:


spacequeen7 said:


> got to get the first batch ...should be here in few days
> _Aune X1 *Pro* DAC / Headphone Amplifier 24bit/192 khz DSD _
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## spacequeen7

^^
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/231197514699?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## mikoss

I made a little shelf today on my IKEA Expedit bookshelf beside my component cabinet. It's to hold/display some tubes for the Aune. Here is a quick shot.



It's getting late and I accidentally rolled a couple tubes onto the stone floor in the kitchen. Very sad, but I do like the little shelf. Anyone have a display of their own? Always interested in other ideas.

Going to go to bed and mourn the tubes I smashed like a fool.


----------



## hdtv00

Yea that's awesome I wish I had that many tubes but can't yet have to pay for dentist crap. But here are some of my shots of what I do have with my Aune T1
  
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/hdtv00/sets/72157643908530035/


----------



## mikoss

Nice, I have the black version as well and think it looks great. Still haven't tried any bb's myself, but heard great reviews of them.


----------



## dana789

I'd be interested in the new X1, but if I bought a fully solid state DAC/headphone amp, what would I fiddle with? what would we talk about? Seriously, I really enjoy being able to tinker with the sound of my T1 simply by swapping the tube. I wouldn't buy an expensive solid-state DAC just for that reason. Probably even if I could be convinced it sounded better. I'm having too much fun with my T1, which I now run from my phone (LG G2). And to me this hobby is all about the fun.
  
 Gotta go hunt for some bargain tubes, even though I already have a box of them that all sound great...
  
 dana789


----------



## spacequeen7

dana789 said:


> I'd be interested in the new X1, but if I bought a fully solid state DAC/headphone amp, what would I fiddle with? what would we talk about? Seriously, I really enjoy being able to tinker with the sound of my T1 simply by swapping the tube. I wouldn't buy an expensive solid-state DAC just for that reason. Probably even if I could be convinced it sounded better. I'm having too much fun with my T1, which I now run from my phone (LG G2). And to me this hobby is all about the fun.
> 
> Gotta go hunt for some bargain tubes, even though I already have a box of them that all sound great...
> 
> dana789


 
 I think (will know more soon ) you can have T1 connected X1 ..no ?


----------



## stjj89

What external amps have you guys trying to feed the T1 into that is a *clear *upgrade from the T1's built in amp? I tried it with the Asgard 2 and I honestly could not tell the difference. Anyone has experience with upgrading their amp setup while keeping the T1 DAC?


----------



## audioisemotion

I have a pair or low impedance modified grado 325is headphone so I didn't want to use a valve amp as they tend to prefer high impedance phones, which is why I bought the Aune T1 in the first place.
  
 Over a year ago the forum started talking about how much better the phono output of the Aune T1 was so I did a lot of research and bought a very nice amp from an electronic engineer on ebay called neco_soundlab. He didn't have any v3 mosfet mains powered for sale on ebay so I contacted him and he created a listing for me and I bought it, he made it in less than a week and posted it to me. Excellent service. I did spec a different op amp as an upgrade, a ad8610 for £15 extra.
  
 The sound. It doesn't really have one as it's very transparent to the source. The improvement, the imaging is razor sharp and the high frequencies have much more controlled and defined. Dynamics are only slightly improved as the grados are an easy load for the Aune T1. The best way I would describe the upgrade is detail and speed. I love string instruments for the complex sounds they make. I now hear far more or the timbre within the instruments which makes them sound that much more real. 
  
 The imaging makes singers who are close together on the sound stage easier to single out and follow. Same goes for orchestras too.
  
 Obviously the improved front end coupled to my revealing Grados means the recordings have to be good and well engineered and you can hear the effect the tube is having on the sound more easily.
  
 I have tested many and currently have a E188CC  Philips Miniwatt SQ tube Röhre Valvola NOS in there. It does an excellent job across the frequencies and images well. A great all rounder.
  
 It is very easy to swap between the aune heaphone output and the bossfet output. I wouldn't go back to the aune on it's own. As a dac it's really quite good but the headphone output is the limiting factor.
  
 It always amazes me when I start to listen to this system, no apparent coloration, bass that just sounds right. No matter how good I think I remember it sounds, I put the headphones on and it always is better than I remember.
  
 If I had different headphones then I might have gone down the darkvoice route, but I do love this mosfet sound very much.


----------



## stjj89

audioisemotion said:


> If I had different headphones then I might have gone down the darkvoice route, but I do love this mosfet sound very much.


 
  
 Thanks for sharing your experience! And you've had no issues with tube sound colouration taking place at the DAC and not at the amp? I'm thinking about getting an Audio-GD SA-31SE to replace the Aune T1 SS amp but I'm not sure if getting the Audio-GD NFB-10.33 or Audio-GD NFB-10ES3 DAC/Amp combos would be a better idea. Is there a clear way to figure out if another DAC is "better" than the Aune T1's DAC, or is it really a matter of sound signature preference and synergy with the amp?


----------



## audioisemotion

hi stjj89, 
 I'm sure the aune t1 dac can be improved upon but it's about bang for your buck. We all (mostly) have to live within a budget. 
  
 Given the Aune T1 performance and the ability to roll the valves to change the sound signature to match you headphones, I doubt there is anything more flexible this side of 300. 
  
 The chatter on the forum also suggests the aune greatly benefits from a general upgrading of the capacitors. So there is still further room for improvement.  
  
 As to your other question, as I said, the bossfet is so neutral and transparent that I hear the tube signature perhaps even better than before. It's not a negative to have good amplification connected to the difficult (comparatively) load of the headphones, controlling the speaker cone. The aune does an excellent job in this setup, driving the easier standard phone load. I will have to upgrade the caps in the future though.
  
 Many thanks on the forum for all the pics on the best way to upgrade the caps and which ones to switch out.  A picture says a thousand words.
  
 As to the Audio-GD NFB-10ES3 I've not heard it. I'm happy with what I have at the moment and I have stopped looking at other equipment reviews (that's a lie I did read the review here on the new HE-560, damn I've started drooling again).
  
 If your patient someone will eventually do a comparison.


----------



## SpiderNhan

I've been playing around switching between the E17 and Aune T1 w/ Amperex Orange Globe tube and the main things I notice when using them with the M-100 are:
  
*Sound stage* (where the tip of the bottom of the \ / designates the position of the listener)
  
 E17:  \  /
 T1:   \     /
  
*Stereo Imaging*
  
 E17: Extends about shoulder width from ear to ear
 T1: Extends to between shoulders and elbows if arms are held out like an airplane
  
*Frequencies*
  
_Bass_: E17>T1 - I'm giving it to the E17, by a very small margin, since it renders bass stronger both in impact and presence. Since most of my music is pop/rock I like the stronger bass, but switching to more acoustical music, the reduced bass actually benefits the sound.
  
_Mids_: T1>E17 - Mids sound more forward on the E17, but lack a certain air. The smaller sound stage and more aggressive imaging overall make for a more congested listening environment. The T1 with its larger sound stage coupled with the reduced bass allow the mids to breathe more. On certain tracks it sounds like the singer is standing in the center of a semi-circle surrounded by instruments on a medium-sized stage. Each instrument has its place in 3D space and is easy to pick out.
  
_Trebles_: T1>E17 - Highs are more pronounced on the E17, while the T1 renders them a bit quieter but with better imaging and decay. I almost had this as a tie, but the more I listened the more I preferred how the T1 handled the sound. It seems more natural whereas the E17 sounds electronic.
  
 The stock 6922EH tube that came with the T1 sounds pretty much the same as the E17 with minor sonic differences but nothing to put one above the other. My recently acquired Amperex Bugle Boy 6DJ8 sounds good, but I haven't listened enough for any detailed impressions.


----------



## mikoss

spidernhan said:


> I've been playing around switching between the E17 and Aune T1 w/ Amperex Orange Globe tube and the main things I notice when using them with the M-100 are:
> 
> *Sound stage* (where the tip of the bottom of the \ / designates the position of the listener)
> 
> ...


 
 Thanks for the comparison. How many hours do you have on the OG? I've been listening for less than 15 hours on mine and find the imaging/decay to be superb, although I find the tube extremely bright. Staging is also very wide, but bass is definitely not as full sounding as some of the other tubes I was rolling. (I don't exactly have any issues with the lack of bass, just note worthy).
  
 Just wondering how signature of the OG changes as it breaks in, and how long it takes...
 Mine is an A frame Holland, marked triangle OJ4.


----------



## SpiderNhan

mikoss said:


> Thanks for the comparison. How many hours do you have on the OG? I've been listening for less than 15 hours on mine and find the imaging/decay to be superb, although I find the tube extremely bright. Staging is also very wide, but bass is definitely not as full sounding as some of the other tubes I was rolling. (I don't exactly have any issues with the lack of bass, just note worthy).
> 
> Just wondering how signature of the OG changes as it breaks in, and how long it takes...
> Mine is an A frame Holland, marked triangle OJ4.



I bought my OGs second hand, not NOS, so I don't know how many hours they have. I don't have them with me at the moment but they are definitely from Holland.

I have no problem with brightness since the M-100 is a dark, bass-heavy can. I think that's why the OG complements it so well. The Bugle Boy, from my short time with it, sounds like a more spacious 6922EH with a similar bass punch and improved mids. The sound is livelier and less clinical than the stock tube, but it still falls behind the OG.


----------



## hdtv00

I feel like its xmas lol. Just won these for less than $5 shipped thx to ebay coupon for just changing a setting the other day. Have a look at the pics from the listing, looks decent and legit doesn't it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Amperex-brand-orange-globe-6DJ8-ECC88-audio-tubes-made-by-Matsu****a-/221418094298?nma=true&si=KStruMWfIrkdoiAxoBWDoZQtp3c%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
  

 Yea so just wanna say I guess tube rolling is a sickness lol, although I only got these for the coupon and plus ones I have already are dimple disk these are O getter so thought for less than $2.00 per tube why not , they have real nice test readings too.


----------



## hk6230

Hi, I have been using the Tungsram E88CC for the last few days and I believe at least 30 hours of playback from POP to JAZZ to R&B. The music from T1 is just so sweet. Bass is solid, very clear on every drum beat, mids are clear and lots of clarity (birds chirping in the background on Jennifer Warnes' True Emotion track). I'm really enjoying my T1 with this tube so much that it makes me want to "cry".
  
 Initially, after reading thru 294 pages, I was thinking of changing the internal caps but now I will just enjoy my music as much as I can. I got this tube for RMB100 (about 12 euro) including shipping. Totally eargasm.


----------



## Salvatore

mikoss said:


> I made a little shelf today on my IKEA Expedit bookshelf beside my component cabinet. It's to hold/display some tubes for the Aune. Here is a quick shot.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have a display of their own? Always interested in other ideas.


 
  
 Here's my solution:


----------



## krelianx

So, I have my Aune T1 connected via USB to my ASUS G73SW notebook, running with an Amperex E88CC. 

 I am playing my HD-600s and Fidelio X1s through them this way; using gain.

 Is this a good enough set-up, or am I missing something?


----------



## hdtv00

What are you playing it back with software wise. Foobar with WASAPI is my choice if you're letting windows manage audio you're not hearing it properly.


----------



## rwpritchett

hdtv00 said:


> I feel like its xmas lol. Just won these for less than $5 shipped thx to ebay coupon for just changing a setting the other day. Have a look at the pics from the listing, looks decent and legit doesn't it?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Amperex-brand-orange-globe-6DJ8-ECC88-audio-tubes-made-by-Matsu****a-/221418094298?nma=true&si=KStruMWfIrkdoiAxoBWDoZQtp3c%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557




Very funny, I was going to place a bid for those exact tubes yesterday. I went for a pair of orange globe a frames instead. Let us know how they sound when you get them.


----------



## krelianx

hdtv00 said:


> What are you playing it back with software wise. Foobar with WASAPI is my choice if you're letting windows manage audio you're not hearing it properly.


 

 How do I set this up? I have foobar, and win 8.1


----------



## MrEleventy

google "wasapi plugin foobar", dl and install. Then open foobar, preferences, playback, device, select aune t1 wasapi push or event.


----------



## krelianx

mreleventy said:


> google "wasapi plugin foobar", dl and install. Then open foobar, preferences, playback, device, select aune t1 wasapi push or event.


 
  
 Do I set up the "output data format" to 24-bit? It is set by default to 16.


----------



## hk6230

mikoss said:


> This might be a dumb question, forgive me if it is...
> 
> If I wanted to hook up my Aune T1 to an amp and speakers, would it be better to go with a solid state amp, or a tube amp?
> I'm thinking solid state since there is already a buffer tube in the Aune... if I used another tube amp would it alter the sound too much?
> ...




I tried using T1 with iFi iTube (set as a tube buffer) to a SS amp. Sounds great. No noticeable slowness in dynamics. And I believe someone in this thread is linking T1 with a tube amp.


----------



## MrEleventy

krelianx said:


> Do I set up the "output data format" to 24-bit? It is set by default to 16.


 Yeah, 24 bit


----------



## hk6230

elbartome said:


> You need to open the cable and then cut the wire.
> 
> 
> 
> Or you can drill through the USB A header until the pin for the 5V supply is gone.


 

 FYI, I had tried asking a vendor to custom made a USB A-B cable with +5V line un-connected. He  accidently dis-connect the GND, too. The result: PC cannot detect T1. It costs me more for shipping it back for reconnection and paying an additional fee for USB-A connector. Bummer. I dare not asking him to just connect the GND only as I'm afraid it may not work.


----------



## hk6230

hdtv00 said:


> So ok I listened to headphones for first 24 hrs only . But now I just connected the unit via it's RCA outs into my receiver which run Paradigm Studio 100's series v3 and OMG. Forget headphones good lord I finally realize why these speakers cost over $3000 now . WHOLE other ballgame people. I'm near speechless. First song I played I just literally started laughing within 30 seconds of hearing the highs and the bass so pure and sweet. It's just unreal.
> 
> Have receiver on Direct so its DAC or tone and bass controls aren't altering the sound at all. It's just pure joy..
> 
> ...


 

 I'm using both Foobar and JRiver playing 24/192 files without any problem. Just download the latest ASIO4ALL driver.


----------



## hdtv00

Yea but I don't want the pure playback screwed with on any other format, so I just had foobar down convert 24/192 files only. If you're not using WASAPI to keep the audio pure you're doing it wrong 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





,


----------



## hk6230

spidernhan said:


> I made a Windows icon for the silver Aune T1 if anyone is interested. I can't post *.ico files can so I can email it to you if you want it. Here's what it looks like in the control panel.
> 
> *Edit: I made one for the black Aune, too.*



Yeah I would love a black one, too. Can you pm me?


----------



## hk6230

hdtv00 said:


> Yea but I don't want the pure playback screwed with on any other format, so I just had foobar down convert 24/192 files only. If you're not using WASAPI to keep the audio pure you're doing it wrong :wink_face: ,



No ASIO4ALL is like Wasapi an interface between pc and usb dac. I guess it just downstream 24/192 to 24/96 just like wasapi. Give it a try,


----------



## Mimesis

So I just got one of these. Headphones sound superb. I was looking to also running the lineout to a stereo power amp in order to power some Chane a1rx. Anyone have any recommendation for a stereo amp or stereo amp DIY kit that would pair well with the aune t1 line out?


----------



## rwpritchett

Okay, so I've now had two experiences with tube rolling that have caught me off guard or, rather, pleasantly surprised. I mentioned earlier in this thread that I happened to snag an Amperex 6DJ8 white label for only $5 with free shipping on eBay and found I liked it more than the Amperex vintage gold pin 7308 that cost over 10x more.

Now, I just received a pair of matched tubes I purchased just to keep one from the set and maybe sell the other. The tube I wanted was a Holland made orange globe with an A-frame... the other tube was labeled Amperex with orange print, but no globe logo and I didn't have the factory code until I had it in hand. I popped this "extra" tube into the T1 just to try it out and WOW, I have a new favorite for my setup. Very airy and outstanding clarity, my best soundstage yet.

According to the factory code it was made in Blackburn, Gt. Britain which I guess technically makes it a Mullard tube labeled and sold as an Amperex? The label has more red coloring than its orange globe companion. Both have A-frames with dimpled getters.

I've seen recommendations for shield logo Blackburn-Mullards in this thread, so I thought I'd chime in with this recommendation: reddish-orange label Amperex with a "B" factory code, A-frame dimpled getter, 70's vintage.


----------



## hk6230

I think I have the same tube as yours. I will confirm once I'm back home on Sunday.


----------



## hdtv00

Yea sorry I wasn't more clear when I replied I didn't mean you were doing it wrong. I knew there were other ways besides WASAPI they mentioned them in first 150 pages of the thread. Since I already used WASAPI before I showed up here I just stuck with it. I just meant if you weren't using one of the ways to keep it pure you're doing it wrong, I was to lazy to type it all out. Sorry.
  
 Anyway so since you can clearly see this is an addiction tube rolling. Here is my super throwback to my 1984-87 shop class days. My carrying case I built for my tapes back in the day now being used for tubes, so it's still used for Prince stuff and still musical use, I think it's kinda cool, least till I run out of room in it for tubes haha. Grr, have a look what ya think.


----------



## H20Fidelity

Guy's, while I really enjoy my Aune T1, I'm new to tube rolling, I have nearly zero knowledge about it - although I've read around Its still a little confusing. Can some of you recommend a good tube to 'upgrade' from the Stock 6922EH without busting my wallet. If the performance is there I'm happy to spend about $50.00.

 It would be for a pair of Shure SHR940.

 Not even sure if I am asking the right question - considering the different signatures tubes are meant to put out.

 Any recommendations for testing the water levels?


----------



## Charliemotta

For starters you can't go wrong with a Genalex Gold Lion E88CC/6922 with gold pins for $35.00 from the tubemazestore on Ebay. Just my opinion.


----------



## H20Fidelity

charliemotta said:


> For starters you can't go wrong with a Genalex Gold Lion E88CC/6922 with gold pins for $35.00 from the tubemazestore on Ebay. Just my opinion.


 

 Thanks for the reply.

 I found the seller but cannot find the tube in question in his items. I did however find another seller, I believe this is the tube you're meaning?

 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291090929387?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 If so I will go ahead this week.

 Thanks


----------



## Charliemotta

Shipping is high. You have to warch for that. I found this..better deal.
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genalex-Gold-Lion-6922-Gold-Pin-tube-36-40-each-E88CC-/310792543321?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item485caddc59


----------



## mikoss

hdtv00 said:


> Yea sorry I wasn't more clear when I replied I didn't mean you were doing it wrong. I knew there were other ways besides WASAPI they mentioned them in first 150 pages of the thread. Since I already used WASAPI before I showed up here I just stuck with it. I just meant if you weren't using one of the ways to keep it pure you're doing it wrong, I was to lazy to type it all out. Sorry.
> 
> Anyway so since you can clearly see this is an addiction tube rolling. Here is my super throwback to my 1984-87 shop class days. My carrying case I built for my tapes back in the day now being used for tubes, so it's still used for Prince stuff and still musical use, I think it's kinda cool, least till I run out of room in it for tubes haha. Grr, have a look what ya think.


 
  
 Nicely done htv00, the case looks great.
  
 As for bitperfect playback, I also prefer WASAPI over ASIO. I think both should work, but I've read on some forums that WASAPI works better and I've never had an issue with using it with the Aune. The Foobar ASIO component also comes with a disclaimer that says ASIO sucks...
  
 "Please note that this component is meant for systems where ASIO is the only available output method. It is highly recommended to use the default output modes instead of ASIO. Contrary to popular "audiophile" claims, there are NO benefits from using ASIO as far as music playback quality is concerned, while bugs in ASIO drivers may severely degrade the performance."
  
 No idea if this is true, and also I have no idea if DSD would work via WASAPI for the Aune X1. I asked how the DSD was implemented on another site and have yet to receive a reply. (But I also don't have any DSD sourced files on my computer, so FLAC is fine for now.)
  
 I was considering buying the X1, but I wanted to learn more about DSD before delving into it. I also read double blind testing where DSD was downgraded to 16/44.1 and nobody could tell the difference, although there are differing opinions about double blind testing. Not to mention the methodology/equipment/bla bla bla. The only reason I would consider grabbing some DSD material would be better mastering.


----------



## SpiderNhan

h20fidelity said:


> Guy's, while I really enjoy my Aune T1, I'm new to tube rolling, I have nearly zero knowledge about it - although I've read around Its still a little confusing. Can some of you recommend a good tube to 'upgrade' from the Stock 6922EH without busting my wallet. If the performance is there I'm happy to spend about $50.00.
> 
> It would be for a pair of Shure SHR940.
> 
> ...


 
 I bought a Amperex Bugle Boy and a pair of 1969 Amperex Orange Globes, both made in Holland. I don't know what year the Bugle Boy is from. Compared to the stock tube the Bugle Boy offers a narrower sound stage with a little less treble and bass so the sound is flatter and more neutral. It's a little louder than the 6922EH and mids are more pronounced. It may be good for toning down V-shaped headphones but it doesn't offer anything too different to my ears. On my M-100, which are closed-back with an already narrow sound stage, it made the music sound a little more congested.
  
 The Orange Globes, upon first listen, gave me goosebumps. The sound stage was enormous. The sense of air around instruments and the separation allowed the vocals to occupy their own space within the soundscape which gave the music an incredible 3-D effect. The bass was toned down a little, which benefited my bass-heavy M-100, although it left me wanting on some songs. The Orange Globe sounded great with rock, instrumentals, classical, jazz and anything that was vocal driven. Let me reiterate; vocals are *incredible *with the Orange Globes. Adele, Imogen Heap, Norah Jones, and Lana Del Ray sounded sublime. Land Del Ray especially since I feel most of her tracks layer on the bass too thick which makes them fatiguing to listen to on bass-heavy headphones. Pop, EDM, Hip-hop and the like sounded better with the Bugle Boy and stock tube due to their stronger bass. Tracks by Britney Spears, Miley Cyrus, 2NE1, and Eminem (just to give a few examples) sounded distant and lost that visceral impact of the beat.
  
 The Orange Globes are usually sold in pairs for around $40.
  
 http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H2.Xamperex+6dj8+orange+glob&_nkw=amperex+6dj8+orange+globe&_sacat=0&_from=R40


----------



## H20Fidelity

charliemotta said:


> Shipping is high. You have to warch for that. I found this..better deal.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genalex-Gold-Lion-6922-Gold-Pin-tube-36-40-each-E88CC-/310792543321?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item485caddc59


 

 Oh, I forgot to mention I'm in Australia, however can get one still. 

 Thanks
  


spidernhan said:


> I bought a Amperex Bugle Boy and a pair of 1969 Amperex Orange Globes, both made in Holland. I don't know what year the Bugle Boy is from. Compared to the stock tube the Bugle Boy offers a narrower sound stage with a little less treble and bass so the sound is flatter and more neutral. It's a little louder than the 6922EH and mids are more pronounced. It may be good for toning down V-shaped headphones but it doesn't offer anything too different to my ears. On my M-100, which are closed-back with an already narrow sound stage, it made the music sound a little more congested.
> 
> The Orange Globes, upon first listen, gave me goosebumps. The sound stage was enormous. The sense of air around instruments and the separation allowed the vocals to occupy their own space within the soundscape which gave the music an incredible 3-D effect. The bass was toned down a little, which benefited my bass-heavy M-100, although it left me wanting on some songs. The Orange Globe sounded great with rock, instrumentals, classical, jazz and anything that was vocal driven. Let me reiterate; vocals are *incredible *with the Orange Globes. Adele, Imogen Heap, Norah Jones, and Lana Del Ray sounded sublime. Land Del Ray especially since I feel most of her tracks layer on the bass too thick which makes them fatiguing to listen to on bass-heavy headphones. Pop, EDM, Hip-hop and the like sounded better with the Bugle Boy and stock tube due to their stronger bass. Tracks by Britney Spears, Miley Cyrus, 2NE1, and Eminem (just to give a few examples) sounded distant and lost that visceral impact of the beat.
> 
> ...


 

 You have me very interested, however the main seller with Orange Globes in pairs won't ship to Oz.

 None the less I really appreciate you guys giving me some insight.


----------



## SpiderNhan

h20fidelity said:


> Oh, I forgot to mention I'm in Australia, however can get one still.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> ...


 
 I'm not sure of the exchange rate between USD and AU, but there are sellers who'll ship to you.
  
 http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=amperex+orange+6dj8&LH_PrefLoc=2&_arm=1&_armm=63&_ruu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3Damperex%2Borange%2B6dj8%26_arr%3D1


----------



## MrEleventy

+1 on the Orange globe. Made my jaw drop when paired with dt880s. I get the same feeling new with a sylvania tube, 6bk7b


----------



## truly194

Is there tube with i can get a better quality bass? 
 I'm comparising aune t1 with fiio x5 right now, and fiio has a better soundstage(but i think that elextro harmonix make small soundstage and i will could fix it by change tube) and better bass quality (better resolution).
  
 Is there any chance for tube that kind or i should go into a fiio? Aune t1 great well job with my dt 880 250 05' edit, but fiio is better in this thigns. Please fast answer because i have to make decision tommorow. 
  
 And hi, this is my first post...


----------



## Redline21

> ~~Is there tube with i can get a better quality bass? I'm comparising aune t1 with fiio x5 right now, and fiio has a better soundstage(but i think that elextro harmonix make small soundstage and i will could fix it by change tube) and better bass quality (better resolution).


 
  
 I'm wondering the same thing.  I just got the T1 today and honestly I was expecting more.  I have a Gigabyte motherboard(GA-Z77X-UD3H), is it possible that the on board sound card is plenty good?  I've never heard any kind of hiss or feedback from it but was expecting a much better sound and didn't hear it.  I'm using Audio Technica ATH-M50s for headphones.  It seems with the 6922EH tube at least that the sound stage is a bit wider and the higher freqs sound a little better, but at the cost of much less distinct bass.  It seems more like an EQ was hooked up that upped the treble and lowered the bass is all, in addition to the somewhat wider sound stage.
  
 After doing several back to back tests with using the T1 vs just plugging the headphones directly into the on board sound, I can tell a difference and yet I think I'd rather have the sound without the T1.  And that's not even factoring in the cost of the T1.  Just commenting as well to see if there's a tube that makes it worthwhile to keep the nice treble and wider sound, but wouldn't lose the bass?
  
 Just want to make sure I'm not missing something before I return it.
  
 Thanks.


----------



## hdtv00

There is a reason this thread is 344 pages long people. READ, even back handfull of pages.
  
 The reason it's 344 pages long is NOT because it's the perfect black box with it's newer tube that it comes with, is there a better tube, gee I don't know maybe go to page 1 and read the god damn reviews at least make an effort instead of back to back post asking what's better.
  
 Think this reply is harsh lol, try reading some of the replies when people are to lazy to even read the fist damn FAQ post.
  
 But here yet again for the lazy let me pick a few tubes that are miles beyond the stock tube it came with...
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Vintage-Amperex-Globe-Holland-6DJ8-ECC88-Dimpled-Disc-Getters-Stereo-Tubes-420-/400700702890?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5d4b9f80aa
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-AMPEREX-HOLLAND-ECC88-6DJ8-ORANGE-GLOBE-LOGO-VINTAGE-TUBES-/351058761415?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item51bcbb96c7
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-1969-Holland-Amperex-Orange-Globe-6DJ8-ECC88-tubes-Tested-86-87-86-89-/181293786998?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a35f3a776
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-1969-Holland-Amperex-Orange-Globe-6DJ8-ECC88-tubes-Tested-72-71-73-71-/181294313781?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a35fbb135
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-1969-Holland-Amperex-Orange-Globe-6DJ8-ECC88-tubes-Tested-75-78-77-80-/181294220022?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a35fa42f6
  
 Some reviews and thoughts on other tubes
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/1200#post_9256553
  
 Some thoughts from Coil who has loads of tubes too


> rock/metal/progressive/jazz:
> 
> ***** Ultron SQ PCC189/7ES8 (DJF V3B, Bharat India, gold label)
> ***** Amperex 6DJ8 (GAC ⊿9F3, Heerlen Holland, single support leg dimpled disc getter, orange globe logo)
> ...


 And PS I'd like to point out I may have been an ass like so many other posts complaining about reading and making an effort I at least answered it all in depth anyway in my defense hehe.


----------



## truly194

Thank You very much 
  
 I gave up at 87 page, i couldn't read it in one day. Now just one question and i will go with aune, not with fiio. Is it will get more resolution bas? Not bigger -  this is ok. But quality...


----------



## hdtv00

Well that hasn't been entirely clear to me. To me the highs are what make it stand out but I have tested with many bass heavy tracks and some sound out of this world, while others sound similar to what I have always heard, I'm not certain why this is, but I think that the bass would have a bigger impact based on which actual headphone you were using or set of speakers you were playing it back on, more so than highs anyway.
  
 Why I was grumpy is I had just said days ago that I also after hearing the stock tube had planned to sell my unit on here. BUT before it got here I happened to buy on ebay bugle boy and Orange Globe tubes, I tried bugle first , slightly better than stock to me. But when I heard the Orange Globe it came alive to my ears, both on my headphones and my home speakers when I run it out the rca outs into receiver. I was blown away and still am. So I say give at least an Orange Globe a try and then if that doesn't get your attention just sell it.


----------



## Redline21

I also started reading in, and 344 pages is a lot of reading to cover the whole thing.  I'll go through your tube ideas, so thanks for taking the time with that, again.  After my first impressions, I didn't really think a tube would make that much difference.  I was just reminded of reading(I believe somewhere buried in here) about someone using a USB 2.0 vs USB 3.0 port.  I was using 3.0 earlier and switched to a 2.0 port and at first listen, seemed to better as in I had all the good qualities without the obvious bass loss.  May have been placebo, since it took a while to make the 3.0 to 2.0 switch so I need more listening with it.
  
 For me, I just need to be able to decide if it's worth it or not.


----------



## hdtv00

It's TOTALLY worth it. I completely agree anyone still using the stock tube is wasting this things magic. But find a cheaper single or pair of Amperex Orange Globe from ebay and let the real fun begin. That and make sure you're playing back things correctly using foobar and WASAPI. Even just simple flac cd rips are stellar , doesn't even need to be high res flac.


----------



## hk6230

I extracted this from Cambridge Audio's Audiophiles Guide to Bit-Perfect USB Audio:

 ASIO (Audio Stream Input/Output) is another method of audio transport which is superior to WASAPI as it bypasses the Windows Kernel Mixer (and the distortion this adds). Just like WASAPI, to use ASIO the media player will normally require some kind of output plug in, but it is only possible to use ASIO in Class 2 USB Audio mode (which allows transmission of higher data rates) using a dedicated driver (such as the free Cambridge Audio USB 2.0 driver). [Aune T1 can only support up to 24/96kHz so maybe doesn't require Class 2 USB Audio mode. Note: Class 2 USB Audio mode is NOT USB2.0.] 

 ASIO is preferable to all Kernel streaming audio transport methods (eg. WASAPI or DirectSound) as it delivers lower latency, better jitter and no mixing of audio streams.

 Can anyone verify this?


----------



## truly194

I'm not sure that i understood. With other tube can i get more quality and better resolution bass? I know that soundstage depend on tube, but bass, will i get close to fiio x5?


----------



## SpiderNhan

I think the FiiO sound always leans toward warm with a strong bass. The only tube I have that sounds most like my FiiO E17 is the stock 6922EH. Since the headphones I use are already bassy, I like that the T1, with an Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8, tames the bass and widens the sound stage.

I also noticed that my T1, out of the box, had the gain set to +16db. I would turn the potentiometer from 5:45 to 6:15 and the volume was deafening. I lowered it to +0db gain and I can get the potentiometer almost halfway around. Maybe playing with the gain will help with dynamics. You can find the gain dip switches on the bottom of the unit under the potentiometer.

Gain settings:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



1.. 2..
On On

1.. 2..
On On

*16db*





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



1.. 2..
On Off

1.. 2..
On Off

*10db*





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



1.. 2..
Off Off

1.. 2..
Off Off

*0db*


----------



## Charliemotta

Nice info. Spidy...Thanks


----------



## mikoss

redline21 said:


> I'm wondering the same thing.  I just got the T1 today and honestly I was expecting more.  I have a Gigabyte motherboard(GA-Z77X-UD3H), is it possible that the on board sound card is plenty good?  I've never heard any kind of hiss or feedback from it but was expecting a much better sound and didn't hear it.  I'm using Audio Technica ATH-M50s for headphones.  It seems with the 6922EH tube at least that the sound stage is a bit wider and the higher freqs sound a little better, but at the cost of much less distinct bass.  It seems more like an EQ was hooked up that upped the treble and lowered the bass is all, in addition to the somewhat wider sound stage.
> 
> After doing several back to back tests with using the T1 vs just plugging the headphones directly into the on board sound, I can tell a difference and yet I think I'd rather have the sound without the T1.  And that's not even factoring in the cost of the T1.  Just commenting as well to see if there's a tube that makes it worthwhile to keep the nice treble and wider sound, but wouldn't lose the bass?
> 
> ...


 
  
 A couple things from my perspective that may be of help to you...
  
 - Depending on the tube in your Aune T1, I have personally found that it takes about 12-15-20 hours of burn in time (music playing through the tube) before its sound signature completely opens up. For example, my Aune came with the 6922EH tube and I found that the sound dramatically changed after a week of listening 2-3 hours/day. If the tube is used, perhaps this isn't a concern. Personally, I believe if a tube sounds "really great" from the first listen onwards, it is probably used. I've also read forum posts where people claim that tubes that have been sitting for a long while still need a couple of hours to burn back in, but I have no experience with this. I've also found that from turning power on, my tubes need an hour or a bit more to sound their best. This is less noticeable and may just be a subjective remark.
  
 - I bought a newer laptop as well and found the sound quality is actually impressive. I compared it to my HRT Microstreamer DAC and found minimal differences. Compared to the Aune T1 though, the tubes really represent the sound differently. I've noticed the mids are especially more lush, and the highs are extended and pleasing. Soundstage width differs with different tubes.
  
 - I also bought a source switching "box" which enables me to audition and test different sources at the same time, without switching cords/settings/etc. I have yet to find a tube that matches the amount of bass coming from my laptop's soundcard, but I also find the bass is uncontrolled and "bleeds" into the mix, causing what I perceive as muddling up. I also don't find myself wishing that the bass from the Aune tubes was hitting harder... it has plenty of impact, it's just controlled and tight.
  
 I think it's a great idea to figure out whatever sounds the most pleasing and go with it. I have an older (3 years) desktop computer that has noticeably lower sound quality, but I personally believe a lot of the newer soundcards are better quality, probably comparable to cheaper DACs with high reviews (eg. the HRT Microstreamer, which I spent $189 on... nearly half the price of the laptop!!!).
  
 Just my opinion, good luck.


----------



## mikoss

hk6230 said:


> I extracted this from Cambridge Audio's Audiophiles Guide to Bit-Perfect USB Audio:
> 
> ASIO (Audio Stream Input/Output) is another method of audio transport which is superior to WASAPI as it bypasses the Windows Kernel Mixer (and the distortion this adds). Just like WASAPI, to use ASIO the media player will normally require some kind of output plug in, but it is only possible to use ASIO in Class 2 USB Audio mode (which allows transmission of higher data rates) using a dedicated driver (such as the free Cambridge Audio USB 2.0 driver). [Aune T1 can only support up to 24/96kHz so maybe doesn't require Class 2 USB Audio mode. Note: Class 2 USB Audio mode is NOT USB2.0.]
> 
> ...


 
 +1 I've read ASIO will have less jitter than anything else, if implemented/supported properly. The problem that I read (and reason why I think a lot of people stick with WASAPI) is with the driver implementation with Windows, which ends up creating more jitter than exclusive mode WASAPI.


----------



## SpiderNhan

mikoss said:


> +1 I've read ASIO will have less jitter than anything else, if implemented/supported properly. The problem that I read (and reason why I think a lot of people stick with WASAPI) is with the driver implementation with Windows, which ends up creating more jitter than exclusive mode WASAPI.


 
 I just find ASIO more buggy than WASAPI. I've played around with both and don't notice any differences in sound. It's mostly just a hassle to get it working consistently.


----------



## isendono

The miniwatt dario ecc189 that coil had described is really nice.


----------



## hdtv00

Why you have to say that isendono lol. I won a damn auction for a miniwatt dario on ebay and then the guy tells me , he can't find it refunded my money. Won it for $21 too.
  
 Yea I read constantly ASIO getting it to work right can be a major pain on some setups. And I always used WASAPI because of the high res audio flac I have before I even got the Aune so I just kept using it.
  
 Also agree it will depend on headphones and speakers used in how a tube will sound in your setup. I also felt my HD 650's were more bass than I wanted, or at least more than I was used to, and the Aune brought it in line and really opened the highs to perfection and sweet sweet mid's when I used the orange globe.


----------



## truly194

I didn't mean all fiio products. I just said about x5. The same with smsl sd 793 or smsl sanskrit 
 Bass is more controlled, is better overall... And i'm asking if there is tube that can make better bass to aune?
  
 Change gain is not good option because i have 250 ohm and 600 ohm headphones  But i can try...
  
 I'm still waiting for my aune t1  But this one which i have to test is very nice. Just the bass and soundstage could be better. With dt 880 it is not so bad, but with my stereo...


----------



## Salvatore

truly194 said:


> I gave up at 87 page, i couldn't read it in one day.


 
  
 Start with FAQ and info post. Those will get you started.


----------



## kaotickelly

I got my Aune T1 a few weeks ago, and I wasn't overwhelmed with the new sound, because the stock EH6922 tubes didn't sound too different to my Fiio E17. If anything I felt the E17 had a little more bass. But I don't have golden ears, so I probably can't pick up to many subtleties in sound, so take my words below with a grain of salt.
  
 Then my 'new' Amperex Orange Globe ECC88 (Dimple getter A frame) and GE Mullard ECC85 Blackburn (Made in Great Britain) arrived this week. Now I'm happier.
  
 The Mullard needed some burn in for the sound to settle, it was horribly distorted without having a couple of hours put on it. Now it's fine straight after it turns on. Sound wise It's smoother, and more well rounded than the E17/EH6922. Overall it's a good sound.
  
 Now I'm listening to some Jimi Hendrix Vinyl 96KHz rips on the Amperex, and man it sounds like the man is playing and speaking right next to me. I suspect both the recording and the tube signature came together. It's great! The airiness of the sound really provides a nice stage for Jimi and his band and the funky tunes their instruments are making.
  
 I'm happy with my purchases, and won't be doing any more tube rolling, I think I have the best amp/tube combo $AU 200 can get me


----------



## hdtv00

"I wasn't overwhelmed with the new sound, because the stock EH6922 tubes didn't sound too different"
  
 "Now I'm listening to some Jimi Hendrix Vinyl 96KHz rips on the Amperex, and man it sounds like the man is playing and speaking right next to me. I suspect both the recording and the tube signature came together. It's great! The airiness of the sound really provides a nice stage for Jimi and his band and the funky tunes their instruments are making."
  
 Yea totally agree with both those statements. And I have orange globe o ring getter now and I at first impression feel I like the dimple disk getter better, but I have to listen bit more with new ring getter version to be sure. I honestly don't think it's worth it at all unless you tube roll. I didn't feel it sounds better than my built in ASRock Purity Sound built into my motherboard, although granted that's supposed to be a high end sound chip and amp capable of running 600ohm headphones. But still I totally could live with nothing but a entire crate of Orange Globe tubes and be happy with only it.
  
 I'll keep searching ebay and trying to find steals on other tubes though just cause. I have 2 dimple disk and 3 o ring now, bugle boy and stock tubes. Where to go to next...


----------



## Chs177

hdtv00 said:


> Where to go to next...


 
 Radiotechnique.... I haven't Orange Globes but I have a Buggle boys. Radiotechnique may be a good option for you. Good luck!


----------



## hk6230

Does anyone knows whether Aune T1 USB is asynchronous or synchronous mode? What's the differences between sync and async mode?


----------



## Chs177

hk6230 said:


> Does anyone knows whether Aune T1 USB is asynchronous or synchronous mode? What's the differences between sync and async mode?


 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/546092/confirming-whether-your-dac-is-asynchronous-as-claimed-or-not


----------



## Redline21

On page 204, do a little light reading next time 
  
 Quote:


mreleventy said:


> It's not a asynchronous dac


----------



## stjj89

Just did some brief comparisons of my Amperex 7308 White Label JAN, Voskhod 1978 Rocket Logo, and Russian 6H23N-EB on my new HE-560. The Amperex is definitely my favourite tube overall--best soundstage, clear extended highs, smooth mids and deep, impactful bass. The Rocket Logo had more bass impact and forward mids, but sacrificed too much soundstage for my liking. The 6H23N-EB was my least favorite tube out of these three as it sounded somewhat flat and only beat out the other two tubes in bass extension.
  
 I'm tempted to try the Orange Globe with all this hype about it. However, the comment that *SpiderNhan *made about it lacking some bass concerns me, since I like having enough bass impact for some electronic music I listen to. Anyone have experience with both the Amperex 7308 and the Orange Globes?


----------



## mikoss

stjj89 said:


> Just did some brief comparisons of my Amperex 7308 White Label JAN, Voskhod 1978 Rocket Logo, and Russian 6H23N-EB on my new HE-560. The Amperex is definitely my favourite tube overall--best soundstage, clear extended highs, smooth mids and deep, impactful bass. The Rocket Logo had more bass impact and forward mids, but sacrificed too much soundstage for my liking. The 6H23N-EB was my least favorite tube out of these three as it sounded somewhat flat and only beat out the other two tubes in bass extension.
> 
> I'm tempted to try the Orange Globe with all this hype about it. However, the comment that *SpiderNhan *made about it lacking some bass concerns me, since I like having enough bass impact for some electronic music I listen to. Anyone have experience with both the Amperex 7308 and the Orange Globes?


 
 Nice impressions; I felt the same way about the Russian tubes compared with the Amperex tubes I've heard. The Amperex 7308 PQ Holland date code delta 3E2 I'm rolling right now definitely has enough bass for my liking.
  
 The orange globe I tried out was NOS from the '70s, a-frame, dimpled getter and date code delta 0J4. I also found the bass to be lacking compared with other tubes. CoiL recommended trying out some OG's with dimpled getters, so I bought these:
  
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/171308607029?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
  
 Waiting on them and I'll let you know how the bass compares with the other OG's and the 7308's I've tried. I presume with those readings they may not be 100% NOS, but we shall see.


----------



## mikoss

Anyone willing to explain to me how tube readings compare with each other... I have tried googling around and cannot for the life of me understand the differences between readings.
  
 Here is what I'm wondering:
  
 Hickok 800-A testers show their results in Gm
 eg. 5500/5500
  
 Jackson 648s, TV-7, B&K 707 testers show their results in I think percentage?
 eg. 116/116
  
 Tubeworld lists their tests in Gm, which compares with the Hickok 800-A results, but then it also lists some tubes with ma
 eg. 20/20.3ma
  
  
 My question is, how do you equate Gm to percentage to ma.
  
 Also, as I understand...
 Gm = mutual conductance = 1/ohms = "mho's" (aka "seimens")
 percentage = tester reads the Gm and converts it into a percent, based on nominal rating from tube specs
 ma = milliamps? This one I don't understand... the correct abbreviation would be mA, not ma. Also, how do you convert "ma" to mho's, or Gm.
  
 Thanks guys.


----------



## Redline21

Posting this here since I gave this big ol response to mikoss and figure it was relevant:
  
 Honesty I'm still teetering on the fence. On one hand, the T1 does sound, in total, better. Wider soundstage, just sounds cleaner, but still at the cost of some low end. The bass is still there, but it's not as strong, like someone set the bass down a little bit on an eq. On a whim, I did order a different tube since it was cheap, an Amperex ECC189. This tube, in comparison to the one it came with (6922EH Russian), was boomier and looser in the bass, but still weak on bass(just got done testing this one again and wouldn't say it's weak on bass anymore, but is more boomy).  The rest was similar but but just a bit more muted. It didn't sound bad, just the stock one sounded slightly better. I wanted to try a different tube, just to hear something different to see how much a tube affects things.

 For headphones, I have an ATH-M50 as my best, also tried with Portapros(bassy) and some IEM Sennheiser CX300s(even more bassy). I am now wondering how much different headphones would play into getting what I want sound-wise. If the M50s had the bass punch of either of the others, then I think I'd be good with this setup.

 Here's the other hand. Just wondering if I'm steering myself in the wrong direction since the T1 seems to take out some bass. Then with, IMO bass light M50s, it gets even further on the cool side than I'd prefer. If I knew that I could get a certain tube that woud bring out good bass, then it would be easier. Coil mentioned a couple tubes that would probably be great, but they're either not available or are very pricey just to gamble on. If I knew that woud get me what I'm after, then it would be easier, but how much f the sound signature comes from the tubes vs the T1 itself?

 I realize the issue with the M50s vs another set of cans is a seperate issue, it just kind of complicates the decision process. On some songs, the M50s with the T1 and stock tube sound great as is. Then I'll do the same setup but switch to the Portapros, and realize there's still some tight thumpage being missed. Now of course, the Portapros are lacking the mids and highs of the M50s. So the M50 can sound really good, but I just want that plus the bass side that I know I'm missing out on.

 So, I'm guessing I may need to find some headphones that will fill that bass gap. Or, decide all the expense of the T1 itself plus tube hunting isn't worth it. Make any sense?
  
 I do want to say thanks for all the info you guys have provided.


----------



## head-hi

You're on a similar quest as most head-fiers: finding great sound with little investment. This hobby is a gamble, for the most part. Since, I assume, you have limited resources (money), you might want to start with what you have, and expand.
  
 Either try one or two tubes for the T1. The 7308 or the Orange Globe seem to be a good bet. Or, go for another amp for the M50's. I'd put together $100 for the C&C BH2, since it's an all-around great buy.
  
 Just one of many opinions.


----------



## Charliemotta

Who did you buy the Orange Globe from??


----------



## hdtv00

Orange globes are all over ebay just buy from a trusted seller. 
  
 Redline21 is seems more to me that you're wanting better headphones rather than needing a better DAC/AMP. I'm using Senn HD 650's with my Aune and it's beyond amazing quality wise. I mention this because the CX300's are a bit of a joke to compare the Aune against them and then blame the Aune , that's silly to me. I assume the ATH M50's are near HD 280 level in quality and that also isn't fair to the Aune. You can't blame the Aune for a headphone being crappy.
  
 Also at the same time I said it before and I'll repeat it. The stock tube with this brings out NOTIHNG at all to me over what I've used for playback. Only after changing the tubes to Orange Globes did I understand the Aune is totally worth it. Is it perfect or the best DAC/AMP ever , course not, but for the $130 I paid for it. It blows my mind. Get to ebay fine a Orange Globe it can be had for $22-30 easy.
  
 And maybe there is just a mismatch between Aune and your headphones. I own the CX300 don't judge anything by their low quality standard.


----------



## bobadrunk

Just got my T1, not much to try it with other than Sennheiser Momentum's. It sounded absolutely terrible with the cord with the inline mic, then I remembered some complaints about this cable too, possibly drawing more power than the normal cable. I switched it out and this sounds absolutely amazing!


----------



## hdtv00

I owned the Momentum's and I think they'd pair well with the Aune stock tube, since it's bright a little and the Momentum's lean toward bass by quite a bit. It would balance them out I'd think and make them shine.
  
 One thing I suggest since the Momentum's are so easy to drive if that's all you're using it with you should really make sure to lower the gain of the Aune to 0 instead of how it ships in +16 mode. Give that a listen might even make it better even still.


----------



## bobadrunk

Oh that was very helpful! I remember reading about the gain switches in this thread but didn't bother to check. Is it just me or are the switches on the left side harder to toggle...


----------



## guy3134

mikoss said:


> Nice impressions; I felt the same way about the Russian tubes compared with the Amperex tubes I've heard. The Amperex 7308 PQ Holland date code delta 3E2 I'm rolling right now definitely has enough bass for my liking.
> 
> The orange globe I tried out was NOS from the '70s, a-frame, dimpled getter and date code delta 0J4. I also found the bass to be lacking compared with other tubes. CoiL recommended trying out some OG's with dimpled getters, so I bought these:
> 
> ...


 
 can you teach me how you ebay so good? hehe


----------



## isendono

roam in ebay often. Saved searches etc~


----------



## bobadrunk

Just wondering, how long do you guys keep the T1 on? Is it safe to leave it on all the time?


----------



## MrEleventy

Redline21 You can also try outputting to another amp, I find the t1's internal amp thin and on the bright side, never had that issue when I output to an o2/vali/e17/darkvoice 336. Had similar issues when I used a magni tho.

bobadrunkI tend to have mine on 8-9 hrs a day, 5 days a week. I have forgotten to turn it off before heading home a few times with 0 negative effects.


----------



## teb1013

stjj89 said:


> Just did some brief comparisons of my Amperex 7308 White Label JAN, Voskhod 1978 Rocket Logo, and Russian 6H23N-EB on my new HE-560. The Amperex is definitely my favourite tube overall--best soundstage, clear extended highs, smooth mids and deep, impactful bass. The Rocket Logo had more bass impact and forward mids, but sacrificed too much soundstage for my liking. The 6H23N-EB was my least favorite tube out of these three as it sounded somewhat flat and only beat out the other two tubes in bass extension.
> 
> I'm tempted to try the Orange Globe with all this hype about it. However, the comment that *SpiderNhan *made about it lacking some bass concerns me, since I like having enough bass impact for some electronic music I listen to. Anyone have experience with both the Amperex 7308 and the Orange Globes?




I agree 100%, the 7308 is on my T1 almost all the time. The Voskhod was too forward with too narrow a soundstage for my taste although some swear by it. Another fine tube is the Siemans E88CC gold, but I like the 7308 a bit better. By the way, if you use a source that offers "driver" quality tubes you can save a good deal. They work fine in the T1 which is a tube buffer device. I got my 7308 for $50 USD driver grade. They listed $75 USD for the premium listing.


----------



## stjj89

teb1013 said:


> By the way, if you use a source that offers "driver" quality tubes you can save a good deal. They work fine in the T1 which is a tube buffer device. I got my 7308 for $50 USD driver grade. They listed $75 USD for the premium listing.


 
  
 Exactly what I did when getting my Amperex 7308 from Upscale Audio!


----------



## guy3134

isn't it better to use preamp tubes?
  
 also anyone have the complete list of supported tubes?


----------



## Charliemotta

Tube types that will work with Aune T1:
  
*6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, **6N27P,** 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
*E188CC, **ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV2493, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, *
*CV5358, M3624, CV4108, CV5331, CV5464, CV5472, CV8065, CV9838, CV10320, CV10403*
*6FW8,* *ECC85, 6AQ8,* *6L12**,* *B719,** * *6BQ7A, 6BZ7, 6BS8, * *6BK7, 6BQ7B,* *6FQ7, 6GC7, 6KN8,*
*PCC85, 9AQ8,* *6BK7B**,*
*6N6P, 6H6N, 6H30P, 6H30Pi, 6N30P-DR, **6N30-DP, 6H30DR,*
*6SN7**, 5692, 12AU7, 5814A, 5963, 6189W, 7316, 7489, 7730, 12AT7*, 6201*, 2C51, 5670,*
*5670W, 6CC42, 6N3, 6N3P, 6H3P, WE396A, 6SN7W, 6SN7GT, 6SN7GTA, 6SN7GTB*
  
 Pending tube types (need to be tested & confirmed): ECC180, 6BC8, 6BZ8, 8BQ7A 
  
 CV tube types cross-reference: http://www.audiotubes.com/cv2000.htm
 Chinese tubes cross-reference: http://www.audiotubes.com/chinese.htm
  
 Vacuum tube pinout sheets (PDF): http://www.bustedgear.com/res_Tube_pinouts.pdf
 Frank`s tube data sheets: http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/vs.html
  
 Tubes marked in *green* are tube types that I personally (and some other users) have tried with Aune T1 and seem to work with no problems.
 Tubes marked in *blue* are tube types that other users have tried with Aune T1 and seem to work with no problems (not tested by me).
 Tubes marked in *orange *are tube types that have been tested by some users but some of them did not work, probably due to "too high" mA current
 draw or may sound distorted due to underpowered 9V heater.
 Tubes marked in *red* are tube types that *require custom socket adapter* to work. *** means that it has too high gain and
 volume output level should be reduced from PC control panel.
 Tubes marked in *pink* are tube types that *do not require socket adapter* but these tubes use higher current draw and might not be safe to Aune T1 internal components but according to user lwrs10 can be used safely. I`m not responsible for damage that may occur. Use with your own responsibility!


----------



## Dyin

I spent some time reading pages from this thread but am still iffy on how well adding this type of tube dac/amp to my system would improve my listening experience.
  
 I have never used anything other than "motherboard" sound (currently Realtek ALC1150 Codec) for my listening nor have I ever used an amp so I don't know if I would notice a difference. I am currently using mainly my hd598's which already have a wide sound stage and good highs. Would adding this dac/amp change any of that? And if it did would it be in a good enough way to justify the costs? (I looked over the tube review posts and have gravitated towards the 7308's. However adding together the costs, the new tube + the AuneT1 would be about 260 dollars which was about the same I paid for my headphones)
  
 Any response is appreciated as I am relatively new to the more "audiophile" side of music listening hardware.


----------



## hdtv00

Well the HD 598's are some pretty nice headphones I'd say with stock tube it'd sound a little better than your onboard audio, but you replace the tube with an Orange Globe or maybe even the 7308 which I haven't heard yet. But I just bought an Orange globe from ebay for $8 so um yea your call but seriously start with Orange Globe I say and if then you can't tell any difference then pack it up and resell it on here or ebay.
  
 And the Aune and tube shouldn't cost you anywhere near $260. You can get lucky on ebay the most I've paid yet for an Orange globe on ebay is $16 per tube. And the one I just got couple hours ago was like I said only $8 plus $5 shipping. Just be patient and it'll come to ya.
  
 As for as being worth it you can't upgrade for much cheaper than this really so it's this well or maybe something used here in the forums from the Amp section.
  
 Also I don't claim to be any expert in tubes, I just keep saying Orange Globe all the time because it was the first tube I thought WOW yea there really is something to this tube rolling stuff. I wasn't impressed really at all by the bugle boy I have either for what that's worth. It was maybe better than stock to me but it's by no means close to any of my Orange Globes either.


----------



## bobadrunk

dyin said:


> I spent some time reading pages from this thread but am still iffy on how well adding this type of tube dac/amp to my system would improve my listening experience.
> 
> I have never used anything other than "motherboard" sound (currently Realtek ALC1150 Codec) for my listening nor have I ever used an amp so I don't know if I would notice a difference. I am currently using mainly my hd598's which already have a wide sound stage and good highs. Would adding this dac/amp change any of that? And if it did would it be in a good enough way to justify the costs? (I looked over the tube review posts and have gravitated towards the 7308's. However adding together the costs, the new tube + the AuneT1 would be about 260 dollars which was about the same I paid for my headphones)
> 
> Any response is appreciated as I am relatively new to the more "audiophile" side of music listening hardware.


 
 I thought the same but was tempted, so I pulled the trigger almost on impulse. I didn't think I'd be able to notice the difference, so I was wondering if I just wasted money. Now that I have the unit, I can honestly say that there is a difference. Not sure if it's a placebo taking place, but there's definitely a new clarity in my music especially in acoustic songs. Onboard sound was adequate at first for me, and now I see why many purchase external DAC's/amps. Since this uses tubes, try getting a warm sounding tube to complement your HD 598's. I'm not that much of an expert in audio gear, but this purchase was worth it.


----------



## guy3134

6SL7 and 6SN7 are the tubes family i wanted to know if works
 i guess it wont


----------



## isendono

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-6SN7-TO-ECC88-6DJ8-6N11-6922-tube-adapter-for-you-amp-/191082281033?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2c7d643849 should work with this , but dont quote me for it tho.


----------



## Vanquished

Hi!
 My Aune T1 just arrived, I puted one Amperex ECC88 tube and I'm pretty happy. With DT880 600ohm it's sounds just wonderful and I'm not yet sure but I think I prefer the sound of Aune amp instead through M-Stage. I'm in the team now


----------



## Alion

Hey,
  
 I've received my Aune T1 I ordered. I set everything up and plugged the USB input in and I'm only getting sound coming into the right ear of my headphones. There is still a bit of sound in the left ear, but much quieter than the right.
  
 I then hooked it up through analog inputs (so bypassing the DAC), and got sound in both ears just fine. 
  
 I'm using a Macbook Pro as a source and ATH W1000x headphones (I also tried some Sennheiser earbuds which replicated the same problem). 
  
 I've read that USB 3.0 ports could be trouble (that's all my laptop has on it) - could they cause this kind of issue, or is this a hardware problem with the tube/dac?
  
 Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!


----------



## hdtv00

could be bad tube. This isn't the first time this has been mentioned either, but first I'd try a different tube.
  
  
 And I'm using USB 3.0 and never had a single problem with mine.


----------



## Alion

Thanks for the info, I was afraid it would be the tube.
  
 Could you link me to where the problem was first mentioned, I'm having trouble finding the post.


----------



## ctrlshift

My Aune T1 makes a crackling noise if left to idle for more than a minute. So basically if I pump music through it as soon as the light comes on and never pause, the sound quality is fine. But if I leave it on for a few mins before starting the music or pause for a few minutes then start it again, there is a crackle/static almost as loud as the music. Short (<1min) pauses don't trigger the issue. The static crackle isn't constant, its like its a part of the music and gets louder and softer as the music gets louder and softer. Once the crackle has developed, I need to switch the unit off for a minute or so to clear it. If I flick it off and on again too quickly, the crackle is still there, but not as loud.
  
 I tried many different tubes, issue stays the same. Does what I described sound like the kind of thing a capacitor might be responsible for? I don't have any return avenue since it was fine for the first month or so before developing this issue. Keen to fix it if I can...


----------



## wippo808

ctrlshift said:


> My Aune T1 makes a crackling noise if left to idle for more than a minute. So basically if I pump music through it as soon as the light comes on and never pause, the sound quality is fine. But if I leave it on for a few mins before starting the music or pause for a few minutes then start it again, there is a crackle/static almost as loud as the music. Short (<1min) pauses don't trigger the issue. The static crackle isn't constant, its like its a part of the music and gets louder and softer as the music gets louder and softer. Once the crackle has developed, I need to switch the unit off for a minute or so to clear it. If I flick it off and on again too quickly, the crackle is still there, but not as loud.
> 
> I tried many different tubes, issue stays the same. Does what I described sound like the kind of thing a capacitor might be responsible for? I don't have any return avenue since it was fine for the first month or so before developing this issue. Keen to fix it if I can...


 
  
 This sounds like the same problem I had - mine would make an intermittent crackling noise if left idle as well.  I suspected it had to do with a capacitor as well and coincidentally, it was also fine for the first month or two like yours.
  
 Oddly, my solution turned out to be among the most basic, and I have no idea why it worked.  All I did was remove the tube and all the other connections (ie AC adapter/power and audio in/out), and er...plug it back in. For some reason this did the trick for me and I haven't had a problem since.  Not sure why it worked, but it's worth a shot and easy to do.  Hope it works for you!


----------



## ctrlshift

Thanks wippo808. I disconnected absolutely everything and plugged it all in again and mine is fixed now too. I had disconnected everything at one time or another except for the actual power cord. My working theory is that I either plugged the power supply in the other way around this time and somehow that helped or that the off switch on the device doesn't fully turn it off. In any case it doesn't matter now.


----------



## penmarker

The off switch turns the unit off but if you touch the brick adapter, you can feel that it keeps going hot. That might me it.
  
 Sadly, my channel imbalance issue still has so solution


----------



## wippo808

ctrlshift said:


> Thanks wippo808. I disconnected absolutely everything and plugged it all in again and mine is fixed now too. I had disconnected everything at one time or another except for the actual power cord. My working theory is that I either plugged the power supply in the other way around this time and somehow that helped or that the off switch on the device doesn't fully turn it off. In any case it doesn't matter now.


 
  
 Glad it worked.  Seems like it could be a common problem.


penmarker said:


> The off switch turns the unit off but if you touch the brick adapter, you can feel that it keeps going hot. That might me it.
> 
> Sadly, my channel imbalance issue still has so solution


 
  
 I don't know much about circuits but I think the AC adapter just stores idle power when the unit is off (and heat dissipation is a by-product of the transformer). One of the inherent flaws of any AC adapter.


----------



## bl3nd

Hello

I plugged my Aune t1 for the first time today, but i noticed a problem with the transformer. As soon as i powered it on it made a *boom* sound and it stopped working. Now it cant even switch on. How can i solve this problem and where i can i purchase another adapter separately?


----------



## MrEleventy

You can contact aune and buy one directly from them. While you're waiting, you can try seeing if the fuse blew within the power wart


----------



## head-hi

So I got the T1 last week and replaced the stock tube with an Amperex 7308 straight away. I ran it non-stop with music for 3 days with a pair of HD600's I normally use with a Portaphile 627. This combo is the one I like to compare other stuff with, so that's my base. I'm running a PC with JRiver to a TeraDak U9 LPS and their USB isolator board to the DAC/amp (in this case, the T1).
  
 I just wanted to make a quick comparison of 4 headphones I've been testing with the T1. These cans all have varying degrees of isolation I need for work. They are the HP50; the MDR-7520; the L2; and the ZMF T50RP mod (Master Model).
  
 I can't use the HD600/627 combo at work, so I've been using, lately, the 7520 with a C&C BH2 amp. The 7520 are excellent with the BH2, as are a lot of IEM's (I use it with a pair of V6-S's).
  
 So first off, the ZMF's really shine with the 627, but the T1 drives them pretty nicely. I just don't like any over-sharpness* of highs in anything, and the T1 can give you a bit of that, even with the 7308 tube. But they sound better than I thought they would with the T1.
  
 The 7520's need more warmth for me, and they sound much better with the BH2. They're one of my favorite over-alls.
  
 The L2's are wasted on the T1. They're pretty lifeless with it. No synergy to me. Got these from Amazon Italy, by the way, for about $267 shipped to Las Vegas. Yet another can that sounds great with the 627. Everything does.
  
 The HP50 hits the spot with the T1/7308. It's got that warmth I need, while not being too much, as they are with other amps. Overall, more pleasing than the ZMF combo.
  
 Just my take.
  
 *I couldn't think of another term. Maybe bright, or brittle. Go easy.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
  
 Thanks, Joe.


----------



## walfredo

*Hiccups?*  
 So, my Aune has been doing some hiccups.  It is playing beautifully and then, suddenly, it hits something and does a little hiccup.  It is short (maybe 0.1 seconds) but very obvious.  I'd say I get one every 10/15 minutes.
  
 I am using Foobar with WSAPI.  I took off my USB and reduced bit depth to 16.  This had no effect.  The hiccups are still there.
  
 Any suggestions?
  
 []s
 Walfredo


----------



## penmarker

Just throwing this out in case anyone can suggest a solution, or how to find the solution.
 I have channel imbalance in the DAC portion of the unit. Right channel is louder than the left. Anyone can point me to the right direction? 
 Sending back is too much trouble, no warranty too. Thanks


----------



## walfredo

penmarker said:


> Just throwing this out in case anyone can suggest a solution, or how to find the solution.
> I have channel imbalance in the DAC portion of the unit. Right channel is louder than the left. Anyone can point me to the right direction?
> Sending back is too much trouble, no warranty too. Thanks


 
  
 A workaround is for you to "counter-balance" the effect in your player.


----------



## RTTO

penmarker said:


> Just throwing this out in case anyone can suggest a solution, or how to find the solution.
> I have channel imbalance in the DAC portion of the unit. Right channel is louder than the left. Anyone can point me to the right direction?
> Sending back is too much trouble, no warranty too. Thanks


 
  
 Buy a cheap tube to test and see if the problem goes away. Could be just a bad tube. You can get a 6922EH or a JJ E88CC (even used) for just a few dollars.


----------



## mikoss

guy3134 said:


> can you teach me how you ebay so good? hehe


 
  
 Search it every once in a while for "6dj8" or "e88cc" and also look for tube "lots" where there is an auction for more than one... That is usually the best spot for bargains!
  
 I have a lot of saved sellers, I can send you over a list if you want, just let me know.


----------



## mikoss

teb1013 said:


> I agree 100%, the 7308 is on my T1 almost all the time. The Voskhod was too forward with too narrow a soundstage for my taste although some swear by it. Another fine tube is the Siemans E88CC gold, but I like the 7308 a bit better. By the way, if you use a source that offers "driver" quality tubes you can save a good deal. They work fine in the T1 which is a tube buffer device. I got my 7308 for $50 USD driver grade. They listed $75 USD for the premium listing.


 
 +1
  
 I've been rolling between the Amperex OG single support dimple getter GAC ∆9F5, and a Siemens E88CC gold A0 1≠ 4F. Both sound somewhat similar to me, so I would recommend either to anyone who is a fan of either and hasn't had a chance to check both out.
  
 I had some other A-frame OGs that I found bright, but this GAC sounds different to me... Detailed and warm, holographic and very nice decay. Now I definitely understand the obsession with this tube. I would say that it sacrifices the very rich, lush sounding mids of the 7308's, but it does such a unique job of creating a warm, holographic presentation that really amazes me. I'm surprised that my music can sound this way.
  
 The Siemens tube is also fantastic... for me, it brings out a whole other dimension in percussion, female vocals, and the top end of the spectrum. It doesn't have the holographic effect, or the sound stage the OG brings, but it just has this clarity and refinement that creates a beautiful experience. I have found they're expensive on ebay, but I do believe it's worth the price if you enjoy female vocalists. As happy as I am with the OG, I roll back over to the Siemens just to see if I could possibly be missing anything, and I'm pleasantly surprised.


----------



## ctrlshift

walfredo said:


> *Hiccups?*
> So, my Aune has been doing some hiccups.  It is playing beautifully and then, suddenly, it hits something and does a little hiccup.  It is short (maybe 0.1 seconds) but very obvious.  I'd say I get one every 10/15 minutes.
> 
> I am using Foobar with WSAPI.  I took off my USB and reduced bit depth to 16.  This had no effect.  The hiccups are still there.
> ...


 

 Have you seen these solutions?
  
 This one assumes windows is the problem:
 http://corey.degrandchamp.com/2010/11/25/fixed-windows-7-sound-popping-cracking-skipping/
  
 This one assumes usb is the problem:
 http://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/1n8y1x/usbdactroubleshootingguide/


----------



## Charliemotta

I could use your saved sellers list. I too have no luck when looking for tubes.


----------



## penmarker

rtto said:


> Buy a cheap tube to test and see if the problem goes away. Could be just a bad tube. You can get a 6922EH or a JJ E88CC (even used) for just a few dollars.


 
 I've bought a replacement tube, a same 6922 EH because the original one has a deteriorated left channel. I suspect the channel imbalance is ruining the tube.
  


walfredo said:


> A workaround is for you to "counter-balance" the effect in your player.


 
 Right now that's what I'm doing. I'd still hope to be able to rectify it physically as I intend to use it for a long time.


----------



## teb1013

Head-hi, what are your comments on the HD600-Aune T1 combo?


----------



## spacequeen7

penmarker said:


> Just throwing this out in case anyone can suggest a solution, or how to find the solution.
> I have channel imbalance in the DAC portion of the unit. Right channel is louder than the left. Anyone can point me to the right direction?
> Sending back is too much trouble, no warranty too. Thanks


 
 have you tried different tubes ?


----------



## head-hi

teb1013 said:


> Head-hi, what are your comments on the HD600-Aune T1 combo?


 

 I think I can say the same thing about the HD600 with the T1 as I did about the ZMF and T1. The T1 drives them fine, but they deserve better and will respond kindly. If you have the T1, but not the 600, or vice versa, you might consider a different addition. But I always recommend the 600, especially when you can get a discount.


----------



## guy3134

mikoss said:


> Search it every once in a while for "6dj8" or "e88cc" and also look for tube "lots" where there is an auction for more than one... That is usually the best spot for bargains!
> 
> I have a lot of saved sellers, I can send you over a list if you want, just let me know.


 

 go ahead


----------



## teb1013

head-hi said:


> I think I can say the same thing about the HD600 with the T1 as I did about the ZMF and T1. The T1 drives them fine, but they deserve better and will respond kindly. If you have the T1, but not the 600, or vice versa, you might consider a different addition. But I always recommend the 600, especially when you can get a discount.




Thanks, I have the T1 with the HD558. They are great together. I want my next step to be the 600 but won't be able to "upgrade" from the Aune for a while.


----------



## head-hi

teb1013 said:


> Thanks, I have the T1 with the HD558. They are great together. I want my next step to be the 600 but won't be able to "upgrade" from the Aune for a while.


 

 That's a nice next step. The 600 sounds pretty nice with the 7308 tube. And like the rest of us "hobbyists", you can then save for the next upgrade. Check out that Bottlehead Crack for the real bargain for your 600's.
  
 Somebody's yelling "Get out while you can!"


----------



## walfredo

ctrlshift said:


> walfredo said:
> 
> 
> > *Hiccups?*
> ...


 
  
 Thanks so much for the useful response, crtlshift!!
  
 I took a thorough look at it.  I implemented everything that made sense in my system... or used an approximation, e.g. my BIOS has not an option to disable the original sound card.  So, I disabled it in the OS (Windows 7).
  
 Additionally, I gave foobar WASAPI bigger buffers.  Properties >> Advances >> Playback >> WASAPI:
   - push mode: 500 ms
   - event mode: 100 ms
  - high worker process priority: on
  
Now, everything appears to be copasetic.  





  
 One thing I am curious is whether I should change from WASPI to ASIO.  But, as my system is happy now... I leave this exploration to some other time.


----------



## mikoss

teb1013 said:


> Thanks, I have the T1 with the HD558. They are great together. I want my next step to be the 600 but won't be able to "upgrade" from the Aune for a while.


 
  
 I loved my HD558's for a very long time. Had a difficult time adjusting to HD650's, but now I'd have an even tougher time adjusting back to HD558's. Love the mids and detailed presentation of the 558's. They are also extremely comfy. Glad you're enjoying them with the T1... I would also bet that warm Siemens tube would be heaven with the 558s.


----------



## jipan

Will Meier Corda Rock work well with Aune T1? I don't know how good T1 amplifier section is, will Corda Rock make differences?
 Anyone tried Corda Rock and T1 yet? Meier did some discount on them, and I'm interested.
 I don't know if the amp section or EH6922 which color the sound bright, and actually I prefer something more neutral or warmer.
  
 Still waiting for my Philips PCC189, HP ECC88 (Amperex made, I think) and Philips ECC88. Can't find decent priced Amperex OG without having to bid on ebay because I'm unable to checking ebay pages frequently. And also, too much hassle to import things into my country, usually I had to ask my friend who currently in German to hand carry them.


----------



## Paspie

My unit has now developed an issue related to the Line Input. As far as I know this has nothing to do with the valve as that is only for the DAC section.
  
 It is way over-amped, and the result is serious distortion across the entire frequency spectrum. I've tested it with my cassette and minidisc player with the same results, so I know it's nothing to do with the source. On another note, even if I unplug the PSU I still get an output (albeit much quieter) with the same distortion, I wonder if there's a static build-up in the circuitry.
  
 I get no such issues with use as a DAC/Amp.


----------



## MrEleventy

jipan said:


> Will Meier Corda Rock work well with Aune T1? I don't know how good T1 amplifier section is, will Corda Rock make differences?
> Anyone tried Corda Rock and T1 yet? Meier did some discount on them, and I'm interested.
> I don't know if the amp section or EH6922 which color the sound bright, and actually I prefer something more neutral or warmer.
> 
> Still waiting for my Philips PCC189, HP ECC88 (Amperex made, I think) and Philips ECC88. Can't find decent priced Amperex OG without having to bid on ebay because I'm unable to checking ebay pages frequently. And also, too much hassle to import things into my country, usually I had to ask my friend who currently in German to hand carry them.


 The amp portion is bright. I think someone took theirs apart and find that the design was basically a cmoy amp.


----------



## darkstargtk

I'm considering picking this unit up but I'm unsure if it would help me out in my situation.  
  
 I'm hoping to use the device as a DAC + Preamp into an amp.  I have a PC with Jriver that I use to send music over toslink into an Onkyo 9050 with an integrated DAC - the amp drives two Klipsch RF52s.  
  
 My goal is to get a tube sound without having to invest tons of cash into a full fledged tube amp.  Do you guys think I would see a benefit in running the RCAs out of the Atune into my amp?  Hopefully I'm not bringing up previously put to bed issues but there is a lot of info in the 350 pages on this device!


----------



## walfredo

darkstargtk said:


> I'm considering picking this unit up but I'm unsure if it would help me out in my situation.
> 
> I'm hoping to use the device as a DAC + Preamp into an amp.  I have a PC with Jriver that I use to send music over toslink into an Onkyo 9050 with an integrated DAC - the amp drives two Klipsch RF52s.
> 
> My goal is to get a tube sound without having to invest tons of cash into a full fledged tube amp.  Do you guys think I would see a benefit in running the RCAs out of the Atune into my amp?  Hopefully I'm not bringing up previously put to bed issues but there is a lot of info in the 350 pages on this device!


 
  
 I used for this application and I am very happy with it, darkstargtk.  I have a Peachtree Nova which contains a DAC, but I prefer the Aune T1 DAC.
  
 IMHO, the Aune DAC is much better than its headphone amp.  The tube you use do matter a lot, though.
  
 BTW, don't use the Aune as DAC + preamp.  This requires you to take the output of its amp.  Use it only as DAC, doing the volume on you Onkyo.


----------



## mikoss

After reading back a couple hundred pages, I have decided to investigate which capacitors came inside my T1. (There were quite a few posts about people opening their units up and finding a variety of different caps, some good and a lot that weren't so good).
  
 I opened it up this morning and this is what I found:
  
 Headphone amp board coupling caps = ELNA (M) (brown) 47uF 50V (I have no idea what kind of ELNA caps these are...)
 Headphone amp board rail voltage caps = Nichicon VR (M) 470uF 25V
 Secondary power supply caps = Purple (Panasonic?) 962TN 330uF 35V
 Main power supply caps = Nichicon HE (M) 3300uF 25V
  
 Pretty sure these are different cap combinations than the ones posted by users previously in the thread, so I guess maybe every T1 is unique 
  
 After reading CoiL's posts, I plan on upgrading these to ELNA Silmic II's, and also upgrading the main PS caps to Panasonic FR's. I ordered them up today from a vendor (with a spare of each as well) for around $20, so not too much cost. I plan on doing the soldering in the next couple weeks, so I'll post results later if anyone is interested. 
  
 Seems to me to be a cheap way to perhaps get better sound out of this already great unit.


----------



## Paspie

I realised the problem: I forgot to remove the phono preamp from the mix when I was changing inputs to non-phono sources.


----------



## jipan

Yes, I looked back several pages and found the post you mentioned. Meier Corda Rock for 160 Euro is pretty sweet, no?! So... New PC or New Amplifier? Ugh, my wallet...
 Quote:


mreleventy said:


> The amp portion is bright. I think someone took theirs apart and find that the design was basically a cmoy amp.


 
  
 Now you make my hand itch to open my unit. The thing is I'm not sure I can put it all back together, I'm so klutz LOL


mikoss said:


> After reading back a couple hundred pages, I have decided to investigate which capacitors came inside my T1. (There were quite a few posts about people opening their units up and finding a variety of different caps, some good and a lot that weren't so good).
> 
> I opened it up this morning and this is what I found:
> 
> ...


----------



## hk6230

Aune had announced an upgrade to its T1. The new model is T1 MK2. New upgrades include support up to 24/192kHz and non-synchronous USB input.


----------



## ramaka

hk6230 said:


> Aune had announced an upgrade to its T1. The new model is T1 MK2. New upgrades include support up to 24/192kHz and non-synchronous USB input.


 
  
 Isn't Aune T1 Pro an upgrade to T1 MK2?


----------



## MrEleventy

There is no T1 Pro. There's an X1 Pro tho.


----------



## ramaka

Sorry, yes you are right...but isn't the X1 PRO the upgraded version of MK2 or is it two totally different products?


----------



## MrEleventy

They're different products. The X1 is solid state dac/amp. T1 is tubedac/amp.

Aune X1

E: So far, the T1 MK2 looks disappointing. From Aune's site, it looks like they've only update the USB chipset and left everything else alone. It's either that or they haven't finalized anything else yet. Hoping for the latter.


----------



## ramaka

Thanks again!


----------



## HeavenNotes

Thank you a lot!!!


----------



## HeavenNotes

teb1013 said:


> Yes, I have to use a small powered hub with the iPad or iPhone to avoid a "low power" reading, despite the fact that the T1 doesn't draw power from the USB port. It works great once you use the hub though.


 
  
 Thank you a lot!!!


----------



## hk6230

ramaka said:


> Isn't Aune T1 Pro an upgrade to T1 MK2?




No, a pro version is simply an upgrade tube. T1 MK2 is the second generation of T1 that offers asynchronous USB transfer for better clock control to reduce jitters and support up to 24bit/192kHz audio format.

And cost RMB100 more now (~USD16).


----------



## mikoss

mreleventy said:


> E: So far, the T1 MK2 looks disappointing. From Aune's site, it looks like they've only update the USB chipset and left everything else alone. It's either that or they haven't finalized anything else yet. Hoping for the latter.


 
  
 Agreed.
  
 Lack of 24bit 192kHz with the current Aune T1 is definitely a non-issue for me. Also, USB jitter is a non-issue. Hope the mk2 has some other features that make it worth upgrading to. Glad Aune is releasing new products as well.


----------



## penmarker

I know there's an X1 Mk2, googled but haven't came across any T1 Mk2.


----------



## MrEleventy

penmarker said:


> I know there's an X1 Mk2, googled but haven't came across any T1 Mk2.


Link


----------



## walfredo

mikoss said:


> mreleventy said:
> 
> 
> > E: So far, the T1 MK2 looks disappointing. From Aune's site, it looks like they've only update the USB chipset and left everything else alone. It's either that or they haven't finalized anything else yet. Hoping for the latter.
> ...


 
  
 I don't care about 192 KHz.  I only had two albums at this res. 
  
 But jitter is a problem.  Maybe my player computer is too slow, but I do get jitter/skip problems.
  
 Looking to see if the T1.2 solves it.
  
 []s
 Walfredo


----------



## mikoss

Have you tried increasing the buffer in your player? Have you tried other players? Have you tried Wasapi event mode? Where is your source (external hard drive or internal?) Is it solid state or a spinner?

I set Foobar for Wasapi event mode with a 200ms buffer or so, and it never has any issues playing off my laptop or desktop drive. Externals will occasionally pause during playback for a few seconds because Windowsneeds to read the directory or something silly like that. This only happens when I have left it idle for a while and I assume it could be solved via power settings. Haven't looked into it yet.

I think most USB issues are not actually jitter, just related to buffering. 

Just some ideas and places to investigate. Hope you can eliminate the issues


----------



## Dyin

Having recently gotten my Aune T1 from Earth City on ebay I am enjoying the upgrade. However there was one small tidbit that is still nagging me. When I set everything up, I set the gain to 0 because my 598's are already low enough impedance. When I started running a few tracks through the Aune though, I noticed slight channel imbalance with the left side being slightly louder than the right. It isn't extremely annoying but it is noticeable enough. I'm wondering if this is because of the I only turn my volume knob less than a third of the way to max along with 0 gain. Right now, by shifting the left channel down 4, I can somewhat balance out the channels. However, I am wondering if this is a normal issue or if I should contact the seller for a replacement.


----------



## MrEleventy

Channel imbalance is normal in an analog pot but I think that's outside of acceptable range. I would definitely try contacting someone about getting a new one.


----------



## Taliesin

Is there a way to remove the led so its just the vacuum tube


----------



## penmarker

Super simple solution: cut a thick piece of paper large enough to cover the LED. Cover it and plug the tube back in. Voila~


----------



## teb1013

taliesin said:


> Is there a way to remove the led so its just the vacuum tube




Unfortunately if you block the LED the tube glow is pretty small (I gather because the tube is only being used as a buffer). CoiL did some posts about using red plastic, which gives a nice tube-like glow. Note that even the Woo WA7 uses (red) LEDs to enhance the look of its tubes.


----------



## krelianx

Guys, any idea of how this pairs with the he-500?


----------



## dana789

krelianx said:


> Guys, any idea of how this pairs with the he-500?


 
 google this: "aune t1 he-500 head-fi" there are plenty of earlier entries in this thread. I realize this thread has gotten huge, but it seems Google knows all about it.
  
 For general searching in head-fi, I find google works better than the head-fi search functions if I simply include head-fi in the search. YMMV. The  search options in head-fi work pretty well too. I just tried "search this thread" at the top of this page for the he-500. It works great.


----------



## walfredo

mikoss said:


> Have you tried increasing the buffer in your player? Have you tried other players? Have you tried Wasapi event mode? Where is your source (external hard drive or internal?) Is it solid state or a spinner?
> 
> I set Foobar for Wasapi event mode with a 200ms buffer or so, and it never has any issues playing off my laptop or desktop drive. Externals will occasionally pause during playback for a few seconds because Windowsneeds to read the directory or something silly like that. This only happens when I have left it idle for a while and I assume it could be solved via power settings. Haven't looked into it yet.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thanks for the follow up, mikoss.  I did manage to eliminate the issues.  No need to upgrate to V2... at least to me. 
  
 So, I am running Wasspi with 3200 ms of buffer, event mode, no external drive, a single device in USB (Aune itself), HD is a spinner. 
  
 More importantly, I think, I gave Properties >> Advances >> Playback >> WASAPI:
   - push mode: 500 ms
   - event mode: 100 ms
   - high worker process priority: on
  
 (Note the increase of 5X in event.)
  
 So, I think you are right.  Buffers appears to be the issue.  But I take there is the overall buffer and the specific one for the Wasapi type (Properties >> Advances >> Playback >> WASAPI)??


----------



## newton2105

Mine will be here Wednesday.  Can't wait to try it with my HE400s


----------



## head-hi

I've had a couple of weeks with the T1 and 7308 tube and must say the combo with the BH2 (from the T1 audio outs, bypassing the amp section) to the MDR-7520 is really impressive. I love the synergy.
  
 I do notice that the tube needs at least 30 minutes of play time before the sound is optimal. The coffee kicks in about the same time.


----------



## ramaka

newton2105 said:


> Mine will be here Wednesday.  Can't wait to try it with my HE400s


 
 I use this at home sometimes and love it, Make sure you experiment with tubes until you find your liking.


----------



## newton2105

ramaka said:


> I use this at home sometimes and love it, Make sure you experiment with tubes until you find your liking.


 
 I was thinking genalex gold lion for my first experiment.


----------



## ramaka

newton2105 said:


> I was thinking genalex gold lion for my first experiment.


 
 I would highly recommend Ultron tubes, they sound magnificient and takes the pairing to the next level.


----------



## hk6230

I have decided to let go my Aune T1 with EH6922. I also have 5 other tubes namely Amperex 7308, 6DJ8, Tesla PCC88, Tungsram E88CC (the best sounding one for me), and supposedly Siemens ECC88 (no more markings). I'm based in Shanghai, China. So anyone interested, please PM me.


----------



## newton2105

ramaka said:


> I would highly recommend Ultron tubes, they sound magnificient and takes the pairing to the next level.


 
  
 Thanks, ramaka.  Where do you pick these up?  I didn't find any on Ebay.


----------



## ramaka

newton2105 said:


> Thanks, ramaka.  Where do you pick these up?  I didn't find any on Ebay.


 
 YGPM.


----------



## head-hi

bobadrunk said:


> Just wondering, how long do you guys keep the T1 on? Is it safe to leave it on all the time?


 

 I'm wondering the same. By the end of the day, my set-up sounds so much nicer than when I turn it on in the morning. Would the main concern be the tube not lasting long, or something else? Can someone enlighten me on tube etiquette?


----------



## penmarker

Tubes has their own life times. Some have 20,000 hours, some 50k, some more, some less. So when you leave the tubes on, it would decrease the life time. But at the same time, tubes sound better when they're hot, and being hot reduces the life time.
 It's really up to you. You can just get new tubes if your current ones burn out. I personally don't mind them burning out, wrap them in small cloths to keep the heat in, makes them sound really smooth and liquid ish


----------



## ctrlshift

This guy says heat is fine for tubes - they die just as fast regardless of heat. So basically just having them on vs making them do something uses it up just as fast. He also says low heat is more of a problem (!?) and that you should definitely let a tube warm up before running current through it...
  
 It's not specifically about the tubes the Aune T1 uses though, maybe it doesn't apply?
  
 http://www.w8ji.com/vacuum_tubes_and_vaccum_tube_failures.htm


----------



## head-hi

Thanks for the replies.
 I can live with 20,000 hours for the cost of a tube. I'm gonna leave that thing on 24/7 so I can enjoy it to the fullest. I'll do some research on wrapping it, etc.


----------



## Salvatore

I think my T1 just broke. Any legit places I can get this MK2?


----------



## hk6230

salvatore said:


> I think my T1 just broke. Any legit places I can get this MK2?


 

 where are you located?


----------



## Salvatore

Finland, but it seems i posted this too hastily. Tried different tubes and E17 and they all had the same rattling sound. I located the problem to be my usb port not the T1. It seems that I cant have anything in the port next to amp usb port or there will be rattling distorted sound. Don't really know what causes this but at least its working now that i have removed my other usb connections.


----------



## Vatnik

Hei, what gain combination (0db/10db/16db) should i set with akg k712?


----------



## jipan

vatnik said:


> Hei, what gain combination (0db/10db/16db) should i set with akg k712?


 

 Try 0 db first. See if you liked the sound and the volume control. Then go upward to 10 db then 16 db.


----------



## Taliesin

How do you adjust the gain. i know about the switches on the bottom of the dac, but what position = what gain.


----------



## mikoss

Finished the cap upgrade job on my T1 and hopefully will be able to post a review this week. Also waiting to receive the solid state X1 Pro and I'll offer a comparison when I've had a chance to burn it in and listen.


edit:
Just finally got my headphones plugged in... holy wow. This thing sounds very, very very good. CoiL wasn't exaggerating on the difference that the Silmic II caps make... Damn this is beautiful.

Daaaamn. Liquid, silky, smooth and much much deeper depth are my initial impressions. (I didn't have my headphones handy the last 4-5 days and I was getting a bit skeptical that the caps would even change the sound... so far I'm a huge believer).

... I will let it burn in for a while and before I give my full impressions.


----------



## KepinCemit

taliesin said:


> How do you adjust the gain. i know about the switches on the bottom of the dac, but what position = what gain.


 

 Click the "view / show all images in this thread" on the top right corner of this thread/page
  
 Scroll down a bit, there are pics of the manual posted by Salvatore (sp?) on Oct 18, 2013 at 2:13 pm showing how to change the gain
  
 Dont know how to re link/post that particular image here


----------



## Vatnik

jipan said:


> Try 0 db first. See if you liked the sound and the volume control. Then go upward to 10 db then 16 db.


 
 Comfort loudness on 50% volume now. it enough? 0db
  


taliesin said:


> How do you adjust the gain. i know about the switches on the bottom of the dac, but what position = what gain.


 
 Read manual.


----------



## Salvatore

taliesin said:


> How do you adjust the gain. i know about the switches on the bottom of the dac, but what position = what gain.


 
  
 Manual and gain settings along with all other useful info can be found in first post faq and the useful posts link.


----------



## penmarker

mikoss said:


> Finished the cap upgrade job on my T1 and hopefully will be able to post a review this week. Also waiting to receive the solid state X1 Pro and I'll offer a comparison when I've had a chance to burn it in and listen.
> 
> 
> edit:
> ...


 
 Is the cap upgrade within the DAC portion or amp portion of the circuit?


----------



## Tamirci

How can I use one (bought from USA) in EU lands? I think I need extra something to make the adaptor work here due to electricity stuff.


----------



## mikoss

tamirci said:


> How can I use one (bought from USA) in EU lands? I think I need extra something to make the adaptor work here due to electricity stuff.


 
 The USA one should be stamped 110V 50-60Hz. Your power in the EU is probably 220V 50Hz, so you would need a step-down transformer to take 220V to 110V, and also an adapter to plug the USA transformer into.
  
 You can usually get a converter which will do both things at once... the converter will have a wattage rating, and the Aune adapter only puts out 1A at 30V, which is 30W. I would go for a 100W converter minimum myself.
  
 To summarize, just make sure the USA Aune transformer is being fed with the right voltage (V) and the right frequency (Hz).


----------



## mikoss

penmarker said:


> Is the cap upgrade within the DAC portion or amp portion of the circuit?


 
 There are four sets of caps that I replaced...
 Two sets of caps are for the power supply circuit inside the Aune, which I imagine should power both the DAC and amp. (I would need to see a schematic for the T1 to confirm this). The other two sets of capacitors are on the headphone amp board.
  
 As for the capacitor #'s, I have them written down somewhere, but I can grab them for you if you like (If you open up your T1, you'll see the printed circuit board has C## printed beside each cap, so they are easy to reference). CoiL also has a lot of information... he did the upgrade first and recommended it to me.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

There are a total of 8 capacitors you can replace (each of these uses two):
  
 Primaries
 Secondaries
 Coupling
  
 I forget the other two on the amp board, I think it's another set of coupling, but I'm not sure.


----------



## mikoss

Did you upgrade yours as well @NCSUZoSo?
  
 edit: sorry just saw in your sig you did. Which did you go with?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Everything is SILMIC II except the primaries are Nichicon Fine Golds.
  
 I have a pair of Panasonic primaries that I'm going to roll.  I actually have 3 pairs of caps laying around not being used.


----------



## mikoss

Nice. I'm impressed with the Silmic II's for sure. It's like the difference between seeing a spider web as a messy white blob, and seeing every individual strand of of the web, plus the moisture glinting off the web from the sun, and tiny particles of dust the web has captured... except it's music instead of a spider web 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
  
 yeah, also went with Panny's for the main PS caps... they're the FR series 3300uF 25V.
 http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/EEU-FR1E332/P14433-ND/2433567


----------



## newton2105

Does anybody here have experience with cryoset.com?  They have a tube I'm interested in, but I wanted to see if any other members had feedback before buying.


----------



## rovopio

does anybody here have shure headphones in their collection...? how does it do when pair with aune t1...?
  
 im in the middle of reading between getting fiio e17 or aune t1 for my shure headphone...


----------



## newton2105

rovopio said:


> does anybody here have shure headphones in their collection...? how does it do when pair with aune t1...?
> 
> im in the middle of reading between getting fiio e17 or aune t1 for my shure headphone...




Which Shure pair do you have? I have the 840s. I just got my T1 a few days ago and have been mostly using it with my He400s.

I will try it out a little bit and maybe see if I can post some impressions for you.


----------



## rovopio

newton2105 said:


> Which Shure pair do you have? I have the 840s. I just got my T1 a few days ago and have been mostly using it with my He400s.
> 
> I will try it out a little bit and maybe see if I can post some impressions for you.


 
  
 940... i forgot to type that... 
  
 im in between this and fiio e17. no schiit modi magni where i live and importing it is not feasible either due to situations...


----------



## krelianx

Any idea of how these pair up with the he-500? I did a search and did not find a good account anywhere, in spite of a member instructing me to do so.


----------



## mikoss

So last post about the capacitor upgrade for the Aune T1... (Sorry in advance for posting quite a bit, just want to provide info to anyone who is interested in upgrading their T1).
  
 I loved the sound coming from my T1, and I tried about a dozen or so different tubes... I narrowed down my two favourite tubes to a Siemens E88CC gold pin halo getter date code A0 1≠ 4F, and an Amperex 7308 gold pin halo getter date code delta3E2. I like the Siemens for it's incredible representation of female vocals and highs, and I like the Amperex for it's rich mids and fantastic imaging.
  
 I read a bunch of posts about head-fi'ers opening up their T1's, and finding a mix of different capacitors inside... Nichicon, ELNA, Panasonic, etc which worried some of them because they'd been posting impressions of different tubes, and felt that the mix of capacitors affected the T1's representation with the same tube from member to member. They then collaborated on upgrading their T1's using some different capacitors, trying to figure out the best combination. @CoiL in particular tried some different mixes, and here is a quote from him after his upgrade:
  


> Holy crap how good this sounds now! Unbeliveable! Those caps made my Siemens E88CC sound like liquid gold! I can`t even describe how good mids section is - especially vocals, just breath taking! Not only vocals - everything! Piano sounds so lifelike that if I were sitting in concert room. The width, depth - horizontally & vertically - just amazing! For me, I think Aune T1 can`t get much better than that anymore. So dynamic and musical! And I haven`t burned those caps in yet but still pure eargasm!
> 
> Seriously, I recommend you to try ELNA SilmicII`s instead stock caps!


 
  
 After reading his review, and looking at the price of new capacitors, I ended up going for the same upgrade on my T1. 
  
 Headphone amp board coupling caps > ELNA SilmicII 47uF 50V
 Headphone amp board rail voltage caps > ELNA SilmicII 470uF 25V
 Secondary power supply caps > ELNA SilmicII 470uF 25V
 Main power supply caps > Panasonic FR 3300uF 25V 
  
 I bought all of the capacitors online from Digi-Key, since the capacitors are relatively cheap, and I was wary of buying from ebay due to fakes or old capacitors. (Digi-Key prints the date of manufacture on their invoice).
  
 As for the sound, I definitely hear the same thing as CoiL. I thought that both tubes were as good as they could ever be, but the new capacitors have noticeably improved soundstaging (width and depth), bass (tighter impact), clarity across the lows, mids and highs, and overall warmth. Liquid gold is a good description... also silky, organic and capturing the emotion of the music. I love it.
  
 For anyone interested in doing this upgrade, you'll need to be aware of a couple things... the capacitors that I used are larger than stock, and will most likely stick "out of the bottom" of the T1, unless they're routed creatively inside the unit. The bottom of my unit is now open, so I place it on its side... not a big deal for me. It probably improves the cooling inside, although it is open to dust now. Also, you'll need to be able to operate the soldering gun with patience, but overall it can be done by a beginner. Removing the old capacitors may require an extra set of hands.
  
 Feel free to PM if you have any other questions, and a big thanks to CoiL and the others who posted previously about upgrading their units.


----------



## newton2105

rovopio said:


> 940... i forgot to type that...
> 
> im in between this and fiio e17. no schiit modi magni where i live and importing it is not feasible either due to situations...


 
  
 Well I gave the 840s a listen on the T1 for the first time and have some initial impressions.  Hopefully they will help you out.
  
 Bear in mind that this comparison was done by playing songs first through the laptop headphone jack and then the T1 at equivalent volume.  Also, these observations obviously apply to the stock EH6922 tube provided with the DAC.  Gain was set to 0 DB.
  
 The Shure's are known for leaning a bit warm and with strong midrange.  I love my 840s, which are great for vocals (esp. female vocals), but the negatives on these headphones is that they can be a bit sibilant and the upper mids and highs can sometimes be a bit too aggressive and a tad fatiguing.  I found that the T1 with the stock EH tube accentuated these traits a bit.  I've read that the EH6922 is a brighter tube, so maybe that has a good deal to do with it.  Also the 840s don't particularly have strong bass, so that also accentuates these issues.
  
 The vocals are brought very forward by the T1, but the clarity is much improved.  
  
 Other positives are the soundstage improves greatly, more so in width than depth.  Instrument separation is improved, but not by a gigantic margin.  Another positive is the improved decay on the notes.  Detail and imaging also improved a bit.  
  
 But then again much of this is to be expected going from a computer card to a DAC/AMP. 
  
 Overall, it was a much more open presentation with the T1 and EH6922, but I didn't care for the fatiguing upper mids and highs.
  
 Your mileage may vary, though.  And keep in mind that different tubes will likely cure these issues.  And the 940 is a bit different than the 840 as well.


----------



## head-hi

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



So last post about the capacitor upgrade for the Aune T1... (Sorry in advance for posting quite a bit, just want to provide info to anyone who is interested in upgrading their T1).
  
 I loved the sound coming from my T1, and I tried about a dozen or so different tubes... I narrowed down my two favourite tubes to a Siemens E88CC gold pin halo getter date code A0 1≠ 4F, and an Amperex 7308 gold pin halo getter date code delta3E2. I like the Siemens for it's incredible representation of female vocals and highs, and I like the Amperex for it's rich mids and fantastic imaging.
  
 I read a bunch of posts about head-fi'ers opening up their T1's, and finding a mix of different capacitors inside... Nichicon, ELNA, Panasonic, etc which worried some of them because they'd been posting impressions of different tubes, and felt that the mix of capacitors affected the T1's representation with the same tube from member to member. They then collaborated on upgrading their T1's using some different capacitors, trying to figure out the best combination. @CoiL in particular tried some different mixes, and here is a quote from him after his upgrade:
  


> Holy crap how good this sounds now! Unbeliveable! Those caps made my Siemens E88CC sound like liquid gold! I can`t even describe how good mids section is - especially vocals, just breath taking! Not only vocals - everything! Piano sounds so lifelike that if I were sitting in concert room. The width, depth - horizontally & vertically - just amazing! For me, I think Aune T1 can`t get much better than that anymore. So dynamic and musical! And I haven`t burned those caps in yet but still pure eargasm!
> 
> Seriously, I recommend you to try ELNA SilmicII`s instead stock caps!


 
  
 After reading his review, and looking at the price of new capacitors, I ended up going for the same upgrade on my T1. 
  
 Headphone amp board coupling caps > ELNA SilmicII 47uF 50V
 Headphone amp board rail voltage caps > ELNA SilmicII 470uF 25V
 Secondary power supply caps > ELNA SilmicII 470uF 25V
 Main power supply caps > Panasonic FR 3300uF 25V 
  
 I bought all of the capacitors online from Digi-Key, since the capacitors are relatively cheap, and I was wary of buying from ebay due to fakes or old capacitors. (Digi-Key prints the date of manufacture on their invoice).
  
 As for the sound, I definitely hear the same thing as CoiL. I thought that both tubes were as good as they could ever be, but the new capacitors have noticeably improved soundstaging (width and depth), bass (tighter impact), clarity across the lows, mids and highs, and overall warmth. Liquid gold is a good description... also silky, organic and capturing the emotion of the music. I love it.
  
 For anyone interested in doing this upgrade, you'll need to be aware of a couple things... the capacitors that I used are larger than stock, and will most likely stick "out of the bottom" of the T1, unless they're routed creatively inside the unit. The bottom of my unit is now open, so I place it on its side... not a big deal for me. It probably improves the cooling inside, although it is open to dust now. Also, you'll need to be able to operate the soldering gun with patience, but overall it can be done by a beginner. Removing the old capacitors may require an extra set of hands.
  
 Feel free to PM if you have any other questions, and a big thanks to CoiL and the others who posted previously about upgrading their units. 


 Thanks for this. I'm curious about this because I'm bypassing the amp now and would like to not have to.


----------



## newton2105

I was thinking of getting a tube or two from Upscale Audio.  Just wanted to double check:  we can use 'driver grade' tubes in the T1 since it uses tube as a buffer, correct?  They have some nice Amperex 7308s, and driver grade seem like a good deal at $50.


----------



## MrEleventy

It's a great deal... until you factor in the $20 shipping.


----------



## newton2105

mreleventy said:


> It's a great deal... until you factor in the $20 shipping.


 
  
 Wow, is that what he charges?  I didn't notice the shipping costs.  Yikes.


----------



## MrEleventy

I checked again, the cheapest option is 14 for a single tube. Not as high as before but, still a rip off


----------



## newton2105

mreleventy said:


> I checked again, the cheapest option is 14 for a single tube. Not as high as before but, still a rip off


 
  
 Yeah, he was touting a Phillips PCC88 tube as a great deal, and a reviewer on there said it was a good match with the T1.  I was going to pull the trigger, but took a look on Ebay and found a very reputable and highly rated seller selling a pair of the same tube for 24.99 opening bid with free shipping.


----------



## MrEleventy

I like ebay for "testing". I don't mind buying cheap used tubes that measure well to see how the tube sounds. If it's a good sounding tube, I end up looking for NOS from more reputable places/ppl


----------



## newton2105

Well, I didn't look closely enough.  Apparently the description on Ebay was "Phillips like" PCC88.  It was still made in the former Phillips Ei factory in Yugoslavia, just much later (1980s).  Oh well, it was cheap at 24 bucks for two.  I'll experiment and see how it goes.  I can always sell the extra one on Ebay later.


----------



## newton2105

Ended up finding a seller on Ebay who had a bunch of leftover Amperex Orange Globe 6dj8s, tested at 1300 mhos.  He was selling them in pairs.  They were partially rubbed so he was selling them for cheap  ($17 bucks for a pair).  You could still read the date code of delta 7k1, which if I read correctly online means Herleen, Holland plant, November 1967, first week's production.  
  
 I don't really care about the faded lettering as long as they work nicely.
  
 Man this stuff is exciting.  Deciphering the date code was an adventure in and of itself.


----------



## MrEleventy

Wow, nice. That's a great price for a pair of Orange globes. And I thought getting a pair for 25 was good.


----------



## rwpritchett

Are they halo or disc getter orange globes?


----------



## newton2105

rwpritchett said:


> Are they halo or disc getter orange globes?




Looks to be the Halo getter.


----------



## lwrs10

I am glad to see some take my advice and do the capacitor upgrade! At first some people were hesitant, but it seems those people are very happy with the results.
  
  
 On a side note I found a few old Tektronix oscopes full of Telefunken ECC88/6DJ8 painted top tubes, which means they were "selected" for testing well above normal production tubes. So far I am enjoying them.


----------



## rwpritchett

I want to give a public shout-out to *arcorob* for his GE 6AQ8/ECC85 recommendation. I snagged a Holland made one up on eBay, though this one has a dimple disc getter instead of the halo getter in arcorob's review. I don't know if it's a Siemens made tube or not.

If my AKG K550's were a revealing scalpel before, they are a friggin' laser beam now. It's the most pronounced difference I've heard in a tube-roll so far. It brings forward so many sounds I didn't hear before. A few examples:

Michael Jackson - Billie Jean: I can hear MJ (inadvertently?) snapping his fingers in the studio to keep beat in some of the verses
Green Day - Good Riddance (Time of Your Life): At the end of the track there's a clock ticking... never noticed that before
Led Zeppelin - The Ocean: Several times, especially around 0:25 I can hear the squeak of something, probably a foot pedal on the drum set

The clarity can distract on some tracks though. For example, Thomson Twins - Hold Me Now has a background ratchet-like sound that is brought to the forefront and is a bit more prominent than it should be.

An excellent tube. It reminds me of cranking up the sharpness on a digital photograph and suddenly you notice small things that were blurred and you can't believe you didn't notice it before. That can be good or bad, depending on what it brings out. I think this will be my main tube for my Aune now.

Too bad the tube won't work in my Bravo V1. I just get distortion.


----------



## rovopio

rwpritchett said:


> I want to give a public shout-out to *arcorob* for his GE 6AQ8/ECC85 recommendation. I snagged a Holland made one up on eBay, though this one has a dimple disc getter instead of the halo getter in arcorob's review. I don't know if it's a Siemens made tube or not.
> 
> If my AKG K550's were a revealing scalpel before, they are a friggin' laser beam now. It's the most pronounced difference I've heard in a tube-roll so far. It brings forward so many sounds I didn't hear before. A few examples:
> 
> ...


 
  
 may i know where did you order the tube?
  
 cheers


----------



## rwpritchett

I picked it up on eBay. Cost me $9.


----------



## rovopio

rwpritchett said:


> I picked it up on eBay. Cost me $9.


 
  
 i searched on ebay but i only got 2 results, from the same seller. and i 'm confused because one is described as "*Results = 5980/5690*" very strong, and the other *Results = 3450/3010.*
 here's the link...
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ge-6AQ8-Ecc85-Stereo-Tube-09098-78-06-6-7-/181411639129?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a3cf9ef59
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-GE-Mulard-6AQ8-ECC85-Stereo-Tube-Very-Strong-Results-5980-5690-59303-/400705880731?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5d4bee829b
  
 idk the difference between those. there are other 6aq8 tubes on search results, but not GE. westinghouse and some others. btw, may i ask the seller name you bought it from...?
  
 cheers...


----------



## rwpritchett

Here is the listing: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECC85-6AQ8-GE-Holland-Vacuum-Tube-Vintage-NOS-Tested-/251535234470?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=0ZDnX4m9%252FTHQZOaUEN3Syw6a8rA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

And here is arcorob's impressions that sent me hunting on eBay:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/3765#post_10120575


----------



## rovopio

rwpritchett said:


> Here is the listing:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECC85-6AQ8-GE-Holland-Vacuum-Tube-Vintage-NOS-Tested-/251535234470?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=0ZDnX4m9%252FTHQZOaUEN3Syw6a8rA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
> 
> And here is arcorob's impressions that sent me hunting on eBay:
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/3765#post_10120575


 
  
 no international shipping. thats why it didnt appear on my search result. oh well 
  
 im still browsing the thread but thank you for singling his impression out. im sold just by reading your impression though.
  
 im in between buying either fiio / aune t1 / schiit stack, im still researching...
  
 thank you mate


----------



## MrEleventy

lwrs10 said:


> I am glad to see some take my advice and do the capacitor upgrade! At first some people were hesitant, but it seems those people are very happy with the results.
> 
> 
> On a side note I found a few old Tektronix oscopes full of Telefunken ECC88/6DJ8 painted top tubes, which means they were "selected" for testing well above normal production tubes. So far I am enjoying them.


My Sylvania 5BK7A is still running fine. Maybe the one you had was defective? It's been running since late Feb/March.


----------



## audioisemotion

Finally someone else has seen the light.
  
 I have bought most recommended variants of the ECC88 and agreed with reviewers which are the better sounding valves.
  
 Based on an earlier reviewer on the forum who was first to point out the ECC85 I saw this one and bought it.
  
ECC85 TELEFUNKEN 6AQ8 6L12 DIAMOND 27 Valve Tube Röhre  £19.99  
 Boy I was blown away, best ever.
  
 I'm onto something here, I thought so I bought this.
  
New old stock Mullard ECC85 6AQ8 double triode valve for £16  
 I've had in the Aune for about three weeks working through my music and I still had me in tears in the early hours of this morning.
  
 Best valve by far, I'm not going to bother with Ecc88's any more.
  
 With my headphones (modded Grado sr325i) it's unbelievably real.
  
 I love the midband, Diana Krall sounds so natural, double bass has finer detail in the timber. Detail is up a notch across the range.
  
 It sounds like there was an imperceptible distortion before with all the Ecc88's which is just not there on the Ecc85's. So when the vocalist increases the volume it stays 
 natural.
  
 I was hoping nobody else would mention it so I could gradually just buy up all the Ecc85's while there cheap, now there going to go up in price. Damn. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Still, for once all the good ones seem to be over here in Europe so there is still hope.
  
 PS I'm talking all variants of the Ecc88, I have most.


----------



## rovopio

audioisemotion said:


> Finally someone else has seen the light.
> 
> I have bought most recommended variants of the ECC88 and agreed with reviewers which are the better sounding valves.
> 
> ...


 
  
 not many ecc85 and i have the grado sr60. so this is a VERY good news. the fact that grado can be paired with this and sounds good.
  
 so... i hv another question, is there a difference between buying ecc85 that is from GE, and yours, the one from mullard, and some other ecc85, from westinghouse for example.
  
 i ask that because not many ebay sellers ship to south east asia


----------



## MrEleventy

Each manufacturer seem to have a house sound so each will sound different depending on the maker. Some are V-shaped (Sylvania, Tung Sol) some are more mid range focused (Amperex), some neutral/flat/balanced(telefunken), and some are just overall warm(Mullard).

E: Take with a grain of salt, my experience is my own and I've own multiple tubes from the listed manus and they all seem to fall that way. I'm sure there will be tubes that are totally opposite so always do your research.


----------



## rovopio

mreleventy said:


> Each manufacturer seem to have a house sound so each will sound different depending on the maker. Some are V-shaped (Sylvania, Tung Sol) some are more mid range focused (Amperex), some neutral/flat/balanced(telefunken), and some are just overall warm(Mullard).
> 
> E: Take with a grain of salt, my experience is my own and I've own multiple tubes from the listed manus and they all seem to fall that way. I'm sure there will be tubes that are totally opposite so always do your research.


 
  
 woww... thank you for the explanation it really helps.
  
 too bad shipping to south east asia cost ~$20 excl. import tax at ~$10 flat, on top of the $25~35 tubes price, and the t1 cost $180-ish. and my budget is only $160 initially.
 i was really reluctant to buy fiio e17 and was opting to bite the aune t1 (for only $20 diff.). and then get the ecc85 6aq8 or the 6gm8 depends on further research from reading this thread. 
  
 do you think it's a good idea to get the t1 instead of the fiio e17 and just bite the price differences? and no, i dont hv a lot of money 
  
 oh my hp are shure 940 and grado sr60....


----------



## JoshuaA

What's the difference between GE 6AQ8/ECC88's made in Holland vs other countries?


----------



## audioisemotion

I only have the two ECC85's so I can't compare GE etc...yet.
  
 Here in the UK it's relatively easy and cheap to get the European made tubes, where as the GE are rare and postage is high from the USA + duties.
  
 Both the ECC85's are better than my previous favorite an E188CC Philips Miniwat SQ for £62 and that's no easy thing to do.
  
 The Mullard is made in Holland in 1979 /|9h1, Herleen, dimple disk getter.
  
 So Philips of same spec , year and plant are going to sound as good.


----------



## MrEleventy

rovopio said:


> woww... thank you for the explanation it really helps.
> 
> too bad shipping to south east asia cost ~$20 excl. import tax at ~$10 flat, on top of the $25~35 tubes price, and the t1 cost $180-ish. and my budget is only $160 initially.
> i was really reluctant to buy fiio e17 and was opting to bite the aune t1 (for only $20 diff.). and then get the ecc85 6aq8 or the 6gm8 depends on further research from reading this thread.
> ...


It would depend on your need.

E17

+Can be used as an EQ'able amp,
+Multiple dac uses (usb/optical/coaxial)
+Great amp
+Portable
= Decent dac

Aune T1

 +Better DAC
 +"EQable" DAC (Tube rolling changes dac sig)
 - Ok amp


----------



## rovopio

mreleventy said:


> It would depend on your need.
> 
> E17
> +Can be used as an EQ'able amp,
> ...


 
  
 a lot of it is going to be used at home... im fine with direct sound with my grado for a long time, so going out i dont mind direct at all.
 my dell laptop output is very bad so i need a dac.
  
 when i read abt fiio in general and fiio e17, many are describing it as dark. is it true in your experience...?
 im new to audio world and it's terminology (though i've read the describing sound link here). i've had the grado for the longest time and i'm still fine with it, i just feel like its time for an upgrade and getting a closed back phone.
  
 does dark means more bass and less sparkling treble?
 i've read what bright and dark means on the *describing sound glossary *link. but the definition of bright for example there is "_Harmonics are strong relative to fundamentals._", since i hv no music background that sentence hardly means anything to me.
  
 but due to my exp. with grado sr60 and the review abt it, i know i like bright headphone. and i tried vmoda m100 where ppl said its a dark sounding headphone, and i dont like the sound. so if i were to guess i dont like recessed treble. and that leads to my reluctance to buy fiio e17 (which is the only thing available here in my sub ~$150 budget). plus my experience when owning a fiio e07k for two weeks and hardly feel any difference with the dac / amp function in 2012 or 2011 (though at that time, i used macbook and ipod so, i guess the dac function was somewhat moot...? and the amp of the fiio e07k, i instantly didn't like it at all back then. i think other than loudness nothing changed. well it something changed in the sound but i sort of not liking it. which is why i sold it right after 2 weeks)
  
 to be fair, idk anything about dac/amp back then, i just got upsold by a pc store so yeah... that's 1 more reason im reluctant to pull the trigger on the fiio.
  
*tl;dr *im going to use this at home..... my guesstimate is $180 plus $50 for the tubes will be ~$240. fiio e17 is $155 last i checked. schiit modi/magni combo since it isnt sold locally will be ~$300 to my door.
  
 does schiit magni / modi better than aune t1 or is that just comparing apple / oranges?
 im really sold with the "laser beam" comment by rwpritchett, i like my music when i can hear the smoke in the bar, hence the shure 940...
  
 also... from reading ebay some seller write "tested for gas and short leak". im going to put this in my room and i have ocd. is _gas _something i need to worry about? or is it completely safe?
  
 will the gas gets me (more) sick or smthn like carbon monoxide gas, because i dont want that


----------



## zoneykid

rovopio said:


> a lot of it is going to be used at home... im fine with direct sound with my grado for a long time, so going out i dont mind direct at all.
> my dell laptop output is very bad so i need a dac.
> 
> when i read abt fiio in general and fiio e17, many are describing it as dark. is it true in your experience...?
> ...


 
 I have the an E17 and the T1, if you like bright I would say go for the T1. Also since you didn't like the E07K I can pretty much guarantee you won't like the E17, the sound signature would probably sound the same as the E07K for you.
 Another thing to consider is that you can always find a tube to suit your sound preference with the T1, but if you don't like the E17 then you're stuck with that, or face paying the to ship it back for refund.
  
 A question to the other people reading this thread, I bought a Holland GE ECC85 tube a few months ago and it has been pretty damn good but it's recently developed a distortion on the mids and lows, does this mean the tube has reached the end of its life?
 I've been switching between a 6922EH and Vokshod Rocket in the meantime while waiting for a Mullard ECC85 to arrive.


----------



## newton2105

My tube binge continues. Found a reputable seller on the bay who had a surplus of Amperex bugle boy logo tubes from the early 60s. Wanted 24 bucks a piece. The logos weren't mint so they were going for a discount.

Was also bidding on a siemens e88cc but that got a bit too expensive.

Man this is addicting. Can't wait to try some of these out.


----------



## guy3134

audioisemotion said:


> Finally someone else has seen the light.
> 
> I have bought most recommended variants of the ECC88 and agreed with reviewers which are the better sounding valves.
> 
> ...


 

 where can i buy these?


----------



## MrEleventy

rovopio+1 to what zoney said. Fiio is a warmer fuller signature, It has similarities to the vmodas that you've tried. The t1 is more like the grados. 

zoneykidI don't think it's the tube going bad, if it's bad, usually it's not just sectional but rather the whole spectrum is affected. Try cleaning the pins and reseating the tube.


----------



## truly194

Ok, i have my aune t1 and it works very nice with my dt 880 250 ohm edition 
  
 But can i get bettery soundstage and more quality and resolution bass by exchange my electro-harmonix 6922eh tube?
  
 What tube i should buy? i have 40$ - is it possible?
  
 This set sounds amazing, but fiio x5 has better resolutione, more details. Can i get this by exchange tube?


----------



## Charliemotta

truly194 said:


> Ok, i have my aune t1 and it works very nice with my dt 880 250 ohm edition
> 
> But can i get bettery soundstage and more quality and resolution bass by exchange my electro-harmonix 6922eh tube?
> 
> ...


 
 This the first tube I bought and it is great. There are better tubes of course but along with them comes higher price, and the gold lion is only 40 cents over your budget.
 It is a good place to start till you read more about tubes that work with your A1.
  
 Good Luck!
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genalex-Gold-Lion-6922-Gold-Pin-tube-36-40-each-E88CC-/310792543321?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item485caddc59


----------



## truly194

How it sounds?


----------



## JoshuaA

What does "TESTS LOW" on a tube mean?
  
 And the percentage eg; 82/107%


----------



## audioisemotion

It was a single tube on ebay. The seller doesn't have more. Item # is 380899772392 if you want to see a picture of it.
  
 I have just purchased a Seimans (item '# 121349434162). I want to see if the copper structure is what is making the slight difference in the Mullard.
  
 The other tube (item # 121324389346) was the first one I bought in the ECC85 range and it's still better than any ECC88 I have. I think I'll
 swap back to it and spend a week or so with it to give it a longer burn in, till the Siemens arrives.
  
 If it is the structure of the Mullard, then any similar (*Featuring 10mm grey anodes , copper grid posts and dimpled disc getter . /|9H1 , Herleen , Holland 1979 *)  spec would have the same sound.


----------



## rovopio

zoneykid said:


> I have the an E17 and the T1, if you like bright I would say go for the T1. Also since you didn't like the E07K I can pretty much guarantee you won't like the E17, the sound signature would probably sound the same as the E07K for you.
> Another thing to consider is that you can always find a tube to suit your sound preference with the T1, but if you don't like the E17 then you're stuck with that, or face paying the to ship it back for refund.
> 
> A question to the other people reading this thread, I bought a Holland GE ECC85 tube a few months ago and it has been pretty damn good but it's recently developed a distortion on the mids and lows, does this mean the tube has reached the end of its life?
> I've been switching between a 6922EH and Vokshod Rocket in the meantime while waiting for a Mullard ECC85 to arrive.


 
  
  


mreleventy said:


> @rovopio+1 to what zoney said. Fiio is a warmer fuller signature, It has similarities to the vmodas that you've tried. The t1 is more like the grados.
> 
> @zoneykidI don't think it's the tube going bad, if it's bad, usually it's not just sectional but rather the whole spectrum is affected. Try cleaning the pins and reseating the tube.


 
  
  
 thank you for the answers... so,, about the tube testing, is that something i hv to be concern about.
  
 from reading ebay some sellers write _"tested for gas and short leak"_. im going to put this in my room and i have OCD. is _gas_ something i need to worry about?
  
 will the gas gets me (more) mentally sick like the effect of carbon monoxide poisoning or smthn...
  
 ===
 really sorry for the weird question, but im genuinely curious


----------



## zoneykid

rovopio said:


> thank you for the answers... so,, about the tube testing, is that something i hv to be concern about.
> 
> from reading ebay some sellers write _"tested for gas and short leak"_. im going to put this in my room and i have OCD. is _gas_ something i need to worry about?
> 
> ...


 
 I will admit I don't know much about tubes, but seeing as they're vacuumed before sealing, I doubt there'd be any significant amount of gasses left inside.
  
 Also, from Wikipedia: "One reliability problem of tubes with oxide cathodes is the possibility that the cathode may slowly become "poisoned" by gas molecules from other elements in the tube, which reduce its ability to emit electrons. Trapped gases or slow gas leaks can also damage the cathode or cause plate (anode) current runaway due to ionization of free gas molecules."
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_tube#Reliability


----------



## isendono

rovopio said:


> thank you for the answers... so,, about the tube testing, is that something i hv to be concern about.
> 
> from reading ebay some sellers write _"tested for gas and short leak"_. im going to put this in my room and i have OCD. is _gas_ something i need to worry about?
> 
> ...


 
 nothing to worry about, its more like air getting inside the tube.


----------



## bobadrunk

Just wondering, does anyone else's T1 start to sound worse after a certain time period until it's turned off and then back on? I start to hear static after a while but this is remedied quickly, but it still concerns me


----------



## JoshuaA

"certain time period" = roughly how long?
  
 Are the tube pins clean? (H202+high concentrate vinegar)
  
 Do you hear anything when you turn it on at full gain and full volume?


----------



## MrEleventy

If you're on a windows machine, it could be the usb settings. After a time that the OS deems the USB is idle, it sets it low power. If the time period is consistent, my money's on that.


----------



## rovopio

thank you very much guys for your answers... ^_^
  
 so... i couldnt find aune t1 locally. im thinking about getting one used from head-fi. i live in a 220V city. does aune t1 accept 110-240V voltage, or does the 110 and the 240 voltage unit is different unit...?
 aka... i can't buy aune t1 from 110V countries... (say, the US)
  
 ===
 ps: yes i asked to aune before posting here, but hvn't received answer as of yet...


----------



## bobadrunk

joshuaa said:


> "certain time period" = roughly how long?
> 
> Are the tube pins clean? (H202+high concentrate vinegar)
> 
> Do you hear anything when you turn it on at full gain and full volume?


 
 Um I think they're clean, they're the stock ones. I do of course hear the music but there's static along with it. The time period is roughly maybe three hours.
  


mreleventy said:


> If you're on a windows machine, it could be the usb settings. After a time that the OS deems the USB is idle, it sets it low power. If the time period is consistent, my money's on that.


 
 Is there a way to remedy this?


----------



## MrEleventy

Yes, LINK. Give that a try.


----------



## mikoss

Also I've noticed static if you have RCA cables plugged into the output on the Aune, and not plugged into an amp/another piece of equipment on the other end.  This happened to me when I was listening with headphones, and forgot I had unplugged my amp, but still had the RCA cables attached to the Aune.
  
@rovopio - You can use the 110V wall adapter that comes with the US version, but you will need a 220V to 110V step-down transformer (converter) that also has a 110V socket to plug into. The Aune adapter is rated at 30W, but I would go with a 100W converter just to be safe.
  
 Here is a link for info:
  
 http://www.amazon.com/Seven-Star-Watt-240V-120V/dp/B0045RU68U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1401723681&sr=8-2&keywords=220v+converter+100w
  
  
 Anything that is 220V input and 110V output and at least 30W will work.
  
 The US Aune wall adapter is rated for 50 to 60Hz, so you will not need to worry about frequency, just voltage.


----------



## JoshuaA

I came across cleaning earlier in this thread. Although I don't think it's the cause of your static. It will definitely improve the sound of tubes that accumulate oxidation on the pins. When I was a kid, I use to clean old pennies that way, lol. Look back and check out the proper method, including making a cardboard guard at the base using an old milk or juice carton. 
 I can't remember if my stock tube was very oxidized or not.


----------



## JoshuaA

mreleventy said:


> Yes, LINK. Give that a try.


 
 Cool. My Aune is connected to a Mac mini, but I do have 2 PCs.
  
 Is there a fix to Bresh's question at the bottom of that blog entry? I remember once having a "USB not recognized", and a fresh OS install fixed it.
 I was upgrading to W8 anyway, but is there a simpler less drastic solution?


----------



## MrEleventy

joshuaa said:


> Cool. My Aune is connected to a Mac mini, but I do have 2 PCs.
> 
> Is there a fix to Bresh's question at the bottom of that blog entry? I remember once having a "USB not recognized", and a fresh OS install fixed it.
> I was upgrading to W8 anyway, but is there a simpler less drastic solution?


If it's a laptop, try shutting down, pull battery, and reboot. That tends to fix a lot of usb problems. For a desktop, instead of pulling battery, unplug it and press the power button a few times to discharge the power supply. If that doesn't fix it, try checking the Device Manager and see if the device pops up with a yellow exclamation mark, that's usually a sign of bad/corrupt drivers. Updating or uninstalling/reinstalling drivers should do the trick. Fresh OS install is the extreme version of reinstalling drivers.


----------



## JoshuaA

Nice. I would have tried all those except discharging the power supply. I never knew about that one (desktop).
 Thanks!
  
 I also learned about "Eject for Windows" on OSX from the X5 thread, love this site 
  
 btw, those in EST, WWDC in 1/2h.


----------



## rovopio

there's a FS for aune t1 but it's 110V, while i live in 220V city... ughhh decision decision >___<
  
 i can't find it locally, darn~...


----------



## newton2105

Listening to my newly arrived Amperex Ecc88 Bugle Boy logo right now. 
  
 WOW.


----------



## JoshuaA

Last night I bought a US made NOS GE 6DJ8 for $22+ship (seller only had one, otherwise I would post).
  
 I was intrigued by arcorob's impression that it is supposed to be like the GE German 6AQ8 but with a tiny bit more bass and slight less soundstage, considering soundstage and detail are already 5* in the German made.
  
 I would also like to thank rwpritchett for his help.
  
 Cheers


----------



## zoneykid

Whelp, the Mullard ECC85 I ordered off ebay has the same issue as my GE ECC85, with really annoying distortion on mid-low frequencies, and they both get really hot, like barely able to touch the tube hot, both of my other tubes don't get that hot.
 Interesting thing though, is that the GE only has distortion on the right.
  
 I tried cleaning the pins using a H202 and white vinegar, they seem to be a little cleaner now but it didn't really seem to help.
  
 From what I can hear besides the distortion, the mullard sounds great.


----------



## isendono

zoneykid said:


> Whelp, the Mullard ECC85 I ordered off ebay has the same issue as my GE ECC85, with really annoying distortion on mid-low frequencies, and they both get really hot, like barely able to touch the tube hot, both of my other tubes don't get that hot.
> Interesting thing though, is that the GE only has distortion on the right.
> 
> I tried cleaning the pins using a H202 and white vinegar, they seem to be a little cleaner now but it didn't really seem to help.
> ...


 
 try lowering the audio output level at bottom right of window from 100% to around 50% , and turn up the volume knob.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I would be trying different gain settings unless those are high ohm headphones.


----------



## rovopio

hi guys.. i just checked aune website.. and they have the aune t1 mark II, which offers 24 / 192 playback and nonsynchronous clock technology...
  
 what does nonsynchronous clock technology do and how will it affect sound...? i finally... found a distributor from neighboring country, but they only hv aune t1 in black (i want silver ) and aune t1 mark II in silver and black in a week and $30 more than the normal aune t1.
  
 so.. here i am posting and asking... 
  
 cheers


----------



## zoneykid

isendono said:


> try lowering the audio output level at bottom right of window from 100% to around 50% , and turn up the volume knob.


 
  
  


ncsuzoso said:


> I would be trying different gain settings unless those are high ohm headphones.


 
  
 I'm using 250ohm DT990s and I don't get that distortion with my 2 other tubes. The GE ECC85 only developed this distortion in the last couple of months, whereas before it was working perfectly, while the Mallard ECC85 has had distortion out of the box.
 Once again for reference I'm currently using a 6N23P Vokshod rocket logo mostly(since the distortion is pretty unbearable in comparison), sometimes rolling to the EH tube that came with my T1.

 Something to note is that lowering the volume output on my laptop and raising the volume on the T1 seems to help but only slightly on the GE tube, whereas on the Mallard it does nothing.
  
 Could it be possible that one of my caps went bad since the ECC85, as far as I know, requires a higher power draw?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

It sounds like you are getting pre-amp distortion before it hits the Aune T1, or the Aune T1 can't handle a signal as hot as your using.  If it is plugged in USB though, none of this makes any sense.  Do you know the difference between the distortion of a tube vs. solid state?  Now yes, the tube is the EQ, but it should put off a much different sound if it is distorting by itself vs. the SS amp board in the Aune T1.


----------



## zoneykid

ncsuzoso said:


> It sounds like you are getting pre-amp distortion before it hits the Aune T1, or the Aune T1 can't handle a signal as hot as your using.  If it is plugged in USB though, none of this makes any sense.  Do you know the difference between the distortion of a tube vs. solid state?  Now yes, the tube is the EQ, but it should put off a much different sound if it is distorting by itself vs. the SS amp board in the Aune T1.


 
 Thing is, if I use the Vokshod rocket logo tube or the EH tube that came with my T1, I get no distortion even with both the T1 and my laptop at 100% with all gain dips set high.
 I feel like the issue isn't that the signal being is overloaded as this isn't an issue across all tubes, and the Line In signal is clean too, so far this issue is localized to 2 of my 4 tubes.


----------



## isendono

some ecc85/pcc85 doesn't work well with aune apparently


----------



## Charliemotta

isendono said:


> some ecc85/pcc85 doesn't work well with aune apparently


 
 According to Coil and his post it should work.
 post #2018 of 4321

 6/6/13 at 4:34am


    

 [img]http://cdn.head-fi.org/2/25/100x100px-LS-2520721c_hfiava.jpeg[/img]
 
CoiL





 
offline
 
844 Posts. Joined 1/2013
Location: Estonia
 


   Tube types that will work with Aune T1:
  
*6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, **6N27P,** 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
*E188CC, **ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV2493, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, *
*CV5358, M3624, CV4108, CV5331, CV5464, CV5472, CV8065, CV9838, CV10320, CV10403*
*6FW8,* *ECC85, 6AQ8,* *6L12**,* *B719,** * *6BQ7A, 6BZ7, 6BS8, * *6BK7, 6BQ7B,* *6FQ7, 6GC7, 6KN8,*
*PCC85, 9AQ8,* *6BK7B**,*
*6N6P, 6H6N, 6H30P, 6H30Pi, 6N30P-DR, **6N30-DP, 6H30DR,*
*6SN7**, 5692, 12AU7, 5814A, 5963, 6189W, 7316, 7489, 7730, 12AT7*, 6201*, 2C51, 5670,*
*5670W, 6CC42, 6N3, 6N3P, 6H3P, WE396A, 6SN7W, 6SN7GT, 6SN7GTA, 6SN7GTB*
  
 Pending tube types (need to be tested & confirmed): ECC180, 6BC8, 6BZ8, 8BQ7A 
  
 CV tube types cross-reference: http://www.audiotubes.com/cv2000.htm
 Chinese tubes cross-reference: http://www.audiotubes.com/chinese.htm
  
 Vacuum tube pinout sheets (PDF): http://www.bustedgear.com/res_Tube_pinouts.pdf
 Frank`s tube data sheets: http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/vs.html
  
 Tubes marked in *green* are tube types that I personally (and some other users) have tried with Aune T1 and seem to work with no problems.
 Tubes marked in *blue* are tube types that other users have tried with Aune T1 and seem to work with no problems (not tested by me).
 Tubes marked in *orange *are tube types that have been tested by some users but some of them did not work, probably due to "too high" mA current
 draw or may sound distorted due to underpowered 9V heater.
 Tubes marked in *red* are tube types that *require custom socket adapter* to work. *** means that it has too high gain and
 volume output level should be reduced from PC control panel.
 Tubes marked in *pink* are tube types that *do not require socket adapter* but these tubes use higher current draw and might not be safe to Aune T1 internal components but according to user lwrs10 can be used safely. I`m not responsible for damage that may occur. Use with your own responsibility!


----------



## guy3134

welp
  
 now my second unit start to make problems
 in the past week when switching song\moving on seekbar i got random "Thick" noises, and yesterday i had full white noise from moving the volume knob.
  
 is that the tube?


----------



## audioisemotion

Agreed.
  
 My third Ecc85 arrived today and it's distorting very badly.
  
 So the Siemens (ebay # 121349434162) was a none starter in the Aune.


----------



## rwpritchett

Maybe we should compile a list of known working ECC85 tubes for the Aune T1?


----------



## rovopio

does it have anything to do with STRONG VERY STRONG weak reports on some ebay seller...?
  
 what does that strong 3000 5000 range testing do anyway...?


----------



## Charliemotta

audioisemotion said:


> Agreed.
> 
> My third Ecc85 arrived today and it's distorting very badly.
> 
> So the Siemens (ebay # 121349434162) was a none starter in the Aune.


 
       Tube types that will work with Aune T1:
  
*6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, **6N27P,** 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, *
*E188CC, **ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV2493, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, *
*CV5358, M3624, CV4108, CV5331, CV5464, CV5472, CV8065, CV9838, CV10320, CV10403*
*6FW8,* *ECC85, 6AQ8,* *6L12**,* *B719,** * *6BQ7A, 6BZ7, 6BS8, * *6BK7, 6BQ7B,* *6FQ7, 6GC7, 6KN8,*
*PCC85, 9AQ8,* *6BK7B**,*
*6N6P, 6H6N, 6H30P, 6H30Pi, 6N30P-DR, **6N30-DP, 6H30DR,*
*6SN7**, 5692, 12AU7, 5814A, 5963, 6189W, 7316, 7489, 7730, 12AT7*, 6201*, 2C51, 5670,*
*5670W, 6CC42, 6N3, 6N3P, 6H3P, WE396A, 6SN7W, 6SN7GT, 6SN7GTA, 6SN7GTB*
  
 Pending tube types (need to be tested & confirmed): ECC180, 6BC8, 6BZ8, 8BQ7A 
  
 CV tube types cross-reference: http://www.audiotubes.com/cv2000.htm
 Chinese tubes cross-reference: http://www.audiotubes.com/chinese.htm
  
 Vacuum tube pinout sheets (PDF): http://www.bustedgear.com/res_Tube_pinouts.pdf
 Frank`s tube data sheets: http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/vs.html
  
 Tubes marked in *green* are tube types that I personally (and some other users) have tried with Aune T1 and seem to work with no problems.
 Tubes marked in *blue* are tube types that other users have tried with Aune T1 and seem to work with no problems (not tested by me).
 Tubes marked in *orange *are tube types that have been tested by some users but some of them did not work, probably due to "too high" mA current
 draw or may sound distorted due to underpowered 9V heater.
 Tubes marked in *red* are tube types that *require custom socket adapter* to work. *** means that it has too high gain and
 volume output level should be reduced from PC control panel.
 Tubes marked in *pink* are tube types that *do not require socket adapter* but these tubes use higher current draw and might not be safe to Aune T1 internal components but according to user lwrs10 can be used safely. I`m not responsible for damage that may occur. Use with your own responsibility!







  
  
 If You read carefully and look at colors, then I personally have NOT approved to use those tubes and I still don`t.
 Why? Because I have bought 7 different ECC85 tubes that are TESTED GOOD and ALL of them are with distorting sound.
 And two out of those are "high grade" Telefunken & Siemens ECC85. Also one Ultron and one RFT.
 Others I don`t remember atm. I know few users hyped the sound but it is quite hard to find those ECC85 tubes
 with exact same physical construction and manufacturer. I tried to get one with same construction and
 manufacturer under different labeling but no luck - distorted sound. I decided to give up finding working one and
 I do not approve hyping about that tube type. It doesn`t mean that there aren`t no great sounding ECC85`s out there but
 it`s lot of gamble and seems that risk getting distorted sounding tube is quite large. About PCC85 - I have two that work great, one
 is good sounding and second is amazing - Siemens E88CC goldpin like. But I still do not recommend those to others because I
 also have 4 of PCC85 that are also distorted sounding like those ECC85`mentioned earlier.

 Feel free to post this information to the thread.
 Well, actually I recommend to do it to avoid users ending up with distorted tubes or at least warn them
 about high risk of it 

 Cheers!
  
 CoiL


----------



## zoneykid

charliemotta said:


> According to Coil and his post it should work.
> post #2018 of 4321
> 
> 6/6/13 at 4:34am
> ...


 
  
 I just got a message from CoiL saying that he has run into the same issue where some ECC85 distort and some don't, it's a bit of a gamble.
 Wish I knew that before I got another ECC85 tube, as now I have 2 tubes that are practically useless to me. Oh well 
 Now I have to find another tube that is confirmed to work, does anyone know of any other tubes that are similar in sound to the ECC85?
  
 Edit: Weird, thread didn't update with new posts for me until after I posted.


----------



## JoshuaA

Glad I focused on very particular ECC85's in my shopping search (didn't buy any).


----------



## rwpritchett

audioisemotion said:


> Agreed.
> 
> My third Ecc85 arrived today and it's distorting very badly.
> 
> So the Siemens (ebay # 121349434162) was a none starter in the Aune.



How does the tube code above the date code relate to tube model? The Siemens ECC85 you purchased was a "tU6", my GE ECC85 is a "tU7".


----------



## zoneykid

So I got a little impatient and ordered a couple of tubes, a GE and a Sylvania both ECC88/6DJ8.
 Really wish there was something I could do to get my ECC85 tubes working, the GE ECC85 I have sounded amazing during the time that it was working properly.
  
 Quote:


rwpritchett said:


> How does the tube code above the date code relate to tube model? The Siemens ECC85 you purchased was a "tU6", my GE ECC85 is a "tU7".


 
  
 My Mullard ECC85 is a tU4.


----------



## Charliemotta

zoneykid said:


> My Mullard ECC85 is a tU4.


 
 I have them both (GE and Sylvania)  and they are great so don't worry.


----------



## MrEleventy

zoneykid said:


> My Mullard ECC85 is a tU4.


In a past post, Isendono mentioned turning down the mixer volume in windows if you have a noisy ecc85. I think that probably works maybe because the gain on the ecc85 is high enough that the noise floor is elevated as well. Have you tried to see if the RCA outs are clean? You can try running your HPs out directly from there with a RCA to female 3.5mm jack. Make sure to turn down the volume in window's mixer because you do it tho. Worth a shot I guess.


----------



## zoneykid

mreleventy said:


> In a past post, Isendono mentioned turning down the mixer volume in windows if you have a noisy ecc85. I think that probably works maybe because the gain on the ecc85 is high enough that the noise floor is elevated as well. Have you tried to see if the RCA outs are clean? You can try running your HPs out directly from there with a RCA to female 3.5mm jack. Make sure to turn down the volume in window's mixer because you do it tho. Worth a shot I guess.


 
 Put in my GE ECC85, line out RCA to 3.5mm in on my FiiO E17, still getting distortion.


----------



## bobadrunk

mreleventy said:


> Yes, LINK. Give that a try.


 
 I was really hoping this was the source of my problems. Turns out that it still turns out static--y. Although, this may also be from the amp idling for a long while before I actually plug in my cans. I'll update and let you guys know.


----------



## audioisemotion

I got the camera out and zoomed in and it seems my Mullard ecc85 is 1u7 delta 4H1 (not 9H1 as advertised) (delta meaning a triangle on it's side)
  
 The 1u7 part the 1 is just a small stroke so I'm guessing a number 1.
  
 I sorry if anyone has bought an ECC85 because I said that my two were better sounding than any ecc88 and then found their new Ecc85 distorted when played.
  
 I too have now bought a third  and it distorts badly.
  
 However, unless someone tells me the ECC85 is going to hurt the Aune T1, then it will be in there a long long time.
  
 It's superb (or for most of the forum "Awesome", the first and only time I will use the word.) Showing my age I guess


----------



## MrEleventy

zoneykid said:


> Put in my GE ECC85, line out RCA to 3.5mm in on my FiiO E17, still getting distortion.


Bummer.  That at least removes the amp as a culprit. I think a disclaimer should be placed on the ECC85 as a tube. It's too hit/miss to safely recommend unless you can get it really cheap.



bobadrunk said:


> I was really hoping this was the source of my problems. Turns out that it still turns out static--y. Although, this may also be from the amp idling for a long while before I actually plug in my cans. I'll update and let you guys know.


Bummer again.


----------



## Taliesin

Are there any tubes that work with the T1 that look different from the stock tube, and have an interesting shape


----------



## isendono

6cg7 6fq7 e288cc for example


----------



## rwpritchett

taliesin said:


> Are there any tubes that work with the T1 that look different from the stock tube, and have an interesting shape




Pinched waist Amperex? They're +++>>>$$$$$$$ though.


----------



## Charliemotta

audioisemotion said:


> I got the camera out and zoomed in and it seems my Mullard ecc85 is 1u7 delta 4H1 (not 9H1 as advertised) (delta meaning a triangle on it's side)
> 
> The 1u7 part the 1 is just a small stroke so I'm guessing a number 1.
> 
> ...


 
 If it were me I'd PM Coil about it.


----------



## JoshuaA

The hit/ miss pairing of the ECC85 with the Aune T1 really makes it a financial gamble. 
It seems less tolerant than recommended tubes where even if you buy a less specific model but same type, it still works without distortion, albeit maybe not as beautifully or the stated impression.

I appreciate everyone posting their experiences especially the tube experts.

I'm almost inclined to avoid the ECC85 altogether even if I find one that exactly matches one of your working ones, correct?


----------



## rwpritchett

I wonder if ECC85 compatibility is device specific. Meaning, a tube that works fine for one person's T1 does not work for someone else's T1.

Are the ECC86 tubes a gamble as well?


----------



## lwrs10

rwpritchett said:


> I wonder if ECC85 compatibility is device specific. Meaning, a tube that works fine for one person's T1 does not work for someone else's T1.
> 
> Are the ECC86 tubes a gamble as well?


 
  
 No. It has to do with the gain/plate resistances. The circuit is not set up for ECC85/6AQ8. Some just happen to work great, some do not. 
  
  
 But, as I said many many pages back, to fix the distortion simply turn the player volume down a tad on your computer and turn up the Aune. There is no set standard/value/brand/test that will determine which ECC85 will work everytime. I use a GE blackplate 6AQ8 every day that has zero distortion with all volumes maxed. 
  
  
 Any why is there an "APPROVED" list for tubes that will work? That is silly.......
  
  
  
  
  
  


charliemotta said:


> If it were me I'd PM Coil about it.


 
  
  
 And I am the one who did all the research on the different tubes we can use BTW......The one who first recapped it, traced out the signal path, etc.


----------



## rwpritchett

lwrs10 said:


> No. It has to do with the gain/plate resistances. The circuit is not set up for ECC85/6AQ8. Some just happen to work great, some do not.




How does ECC86/6GM8 compare with respect to gain/plate resistance, etc?


----------



## lwrs10

rwpritchett said:


> How does ECC86/6GM8 compare with respect to gain/plate resistance, etc?


 
  
  
 Google ECC86 datasheet and whatever else you want to compare it to. 
  
  
  
 As for ECC85/6AQ8 tubes that will work, would anyone be interested in ones I have personally tested to work fine? I have a few......hundred.......of them.


----------



## rwpritchett

From what I've read, the difference is only in the heater current:

E88CC (stock for Aune T1) & ECC88 = 365mA 
ECC85 = 435 mA
ECC86 = 330 mA

I don't know what that means exactly. The ECC85 obviously draws more current which is probably why some don't work in the Aune T1 which is designed for E88CC tubes. It looks like the ECC86 tubes would be a safe bet since it draws a little less. Is my thinking correct?


----------



## Chs177

lwrs10 said:


> As for ECC85/6AQ8 tubes that will work, would anyone be interested in ones I have personally tested to work fine? I have a few......hundred.......of them.


 
 I'm interesting. Do you have Brimar/Mullard/Telefunken?


----------



## zoneykid

rwpritchett said:


> From what I've read, the difference is only in the heater current:
> 
> E88CC (stock for Aune T1) & ECC88 = 365mA
> ECC85 = 435 mA
> ...


 
 I'm thinking maybe it has to do with replacing the caps?
 Higher quality caps might be able to handle the load better or something.


----------



## ElBartoME

rwpritchett said:


> From what I've read, the difference is only in the heater current:
> 
> E88CC (stock for Aune T1) & ECC88 = 365mA
> ECC85 = 435 mA
> ...


 
  
 Current draw from the heaters is not that relevant. Sure, it shouldn't draw a massive amount of current, but the problem with other tube types is that they have other characteristics. Different capacitances, different curves.
  
 I tried some ECC85 from Siemens with no luck. 3 of them were badly distorted. Only one of them kind of worked, but I didn't like the sound.
 I did try two Valvo E288CC. They draw a lot of current (475mA), but they did work just fine. Was one of my favorite tubes until I got my hands on a Adzam E88CC SQ yesterday.
  
  


zoneykid said:


> I'm thinking maybe it has to do with replacing the caps?
> Higher quality caps might be able to handle the load better or something.


 
  
 No, changing the caps wouldn't change anything. I have other caps in my Aune. The ECC85s I own still don't work. As I said, it is totally independent from the heater current.


----------



## isendono

my e288cc works perfectly fine as well. Same for the two 6cg7 tubes that I have. I think 6cg7 tubes draw 600mA


----------



## pepku

Anyone tried *E88CC PHILIPS SQ?*


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Are they Philips MINIWATT SQ E88CC?  If so, if you can find one for under $100 with 75%+ of the life left, grab it.  They go all day for $130+, especially if you don't like Ebay for tubes (all my tubes are off Ebay, all NOS ones too)  Show a pic of the tube, Philips made like three kinds of the SQ.
  
 Does it look like this: http://www.tubemonger.com/Philips_Miniwatt_MINT_NOS_1962_SQ_E88CC_6922_p/210.htm
  
 If you are looking at a Miniwatt (even though I have no experience with them, may be awesome tubes), but for that money you can get a Siemens CCa, which is one of the highest regarded E88CC with highly limited stock (they were never supposed to leave Germany).
  
  
 Do you know what Country it was made in?


----------



## ElBartoME

pepku said:


> Anyone tried *E88CC PHILIPS SQ?*


 
  
 You mean these one?
  
 
  
 They are quite nice. I was able to get them for a lot less money than they are normally being selled on eBay.
  
 The sound of these are great. If you can get them for a reasonable price I would recommend it. I'm saving these two tubes for my future amp that I'm making. Should be finished soon.


----------



## pepku

They look like that, and I can get one for ~30$ in my country.


----------



## Luckbad

Howdy! I have new Sennheiser HD 650s with an Objective2 amp on the way.
  
 Would the Aune T1 work well as a DAC going into the Objective2 > Sennheiser 650?
  
 I listen to a lot of electronic music, classic, and various genres of rock.
  
 The upgrade version with 6922 Tube is currently on sale at Amazon, which is largely why I'm considering picking one up.
  
 Thank you!


----------



## dana789

try "search this thread" at the top of this page. It works very will for requests like yours. There's plenty of chatter about using the DAC from the T1 and the Objective 2 using the RCA outputs, which still utilizes the tube buffer stage. Not sure about the 650s though.


----------



## truly194

Anyone know something about aune t1 MKII - with asynchronus dac? Anyone compared MKII with MKI?


----------



## Luckbad

dana789 said:


> try "search this thread" at the top of this page. It works very will for requests like yours. There's plenty of chatter about using the DAC from the T1 and the Objective 2 using the RCA outputs, which still utilizes the tube buffer stage. Not sure about the 650s though.


 
 Thanks! That'll help with a lot of questions. Didn't realize I could search this thread specifically.


----------



## mikoss

@ElBartoME @pepku - Those are beautiful sounding tubes. I am super jealous that you can get them for $30... what a steal! Let me know if you're ever interested in selling some. 
  
 I have around 40 hours on my re-capped Aune T1 and it's sounding better everyday. 
  
 I cannot recommend this upgrade enough... the improvement takes the T1 above and beyond anything my ears have heard before. I wish everyone would try it out and experience what I'm hearing, it's beyond amazing to me.
  
 Feel free to PM for details and I will happily provide any help/info.
  
@Luckbad - I've been using my T1 with my HD 650's and it sounds great. Haven't tried the Objective 2, or the Bottlehead Crack which is also supposed to be a superb amp with them. I doubt it sounds any better than the T1 I have now, but if I come across one I'll definitely audition it. Good luck!


----------



## rovopio

mikoss said:


> I cannot recommend this upgrade enough... the improvement takes the T1 above and beyond anything my ears have heard before. I wish everyone would try it out and experience what I'm hearing, it's beyond amazing to me.


 
  
 hi mikoss... i dont follow your post, so sorry.
  
 by this upgrade, do you mean the e88cc philips sq?
  
 if that's what you mean by _this upgrade. _why do you want to buy more of the same tubes..? does tubes have short period of life or smthn...?
  
  
 hv you tried the 6aq8 ecc85 that lately some people getting good results on and some gets distortion...?
 if you have, which one is better?


----------



## ElBartoME

rovopio said:


> hi mikoss... i dont follow your post, so sorry.
> 
> by this upgrade, do you mean the e88cc philips sq?
> 
> if that's what you mean by _this upgrade. _why do you want to buy more of the same tubes..? does tubes have short period of life or smthn...?


 
  
 He's talking about the capacitors. I agree, the upgrade is worth it.


----------



## rovopio

elbartome said:


> He's talking about the capacitors. I agree, the upgrade is worth it.


 
  
 i mean... upgrade to which tubes...? did he meant the e88cc philips sq or any compatible tubes as long as its not stock 6922?
  
 if e88cc sq is what he meant by _the upgrade._ why does he needs / wants to buy more of the same tubes that he's already using..? does tubes have short / limited period of life or smthn...?


----------



## MrEleventy

rovopio said:


> i mean... upgrade to which tubes...? did he meant the e88cc philips sq or any compatible tubes as long as its not stock 6922?
> 
> if e88cc sq is what he meant by _the upgrade._ why does he needs / wants to buy more of the same tubes that he's already using..? does tubes have short / limited period of life or smthn...?


Mikoss isn't talking about tubes when he said "the upgrade". El Barto told you what he was talking about.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Capacitor upgrade is a little tricky if you don't have soldering experience and you have to know what will fit and right now off the top of my head I can't remember the height, I can tell you that none of mine fit without being bent over.  However I do not think it's good to use a jumper wire to lay them down due to the capacitance of the wire used (even solid copper core).  Leaving long leads like we have to in order to bend them over changes the value slightly, but nowhere near what running cheap copper cable to it does.
  
 The other thing about the cap upgrade is you may not like what you change the first time around, right now I have Nichicon Fine Golds at the primary location and they are eating some of the bass.  They give off a much better mid to high, but some of the bass is gone.  I shorted them and temporarily ran the Panasonics that everyone buys and the bass did come back, but I lost the clarity from the Nichicons.  So you may end up "rolling" capacitors a few times, or you may be lucky and nail it the first time.  This isn't an exact science since we all pretty much have different headphones.


----------



## llcook51

Anyone have experience with Genalex Gold Lion E88CC Gold Pin Tube?


----------



## rwpritchett

llcook51 said:


> Anyone have experience with [COLOR=0066C0]Genalex Gold Lion E88CC Gold Pin Tube[/COLOR]?




I have a gold lion... Though I would have to listen to it some more to give impressions.


----------



## mikoss

rovopio said:


> hi mikoss... i dont follow your post, so sorry.
> 
> by this upgrade, do you mean the e88cc philips sq?
> 
> if that's what you mean by _this upgrade. _why do you want to buy more of the same tubes..? does tubes have short period of life or smthn...?


 
 Rovopio, the upgrade was for the capacitors inside the T1. The E88CC Philips SQ is a very nice tube. It's also a long life tube, so it should last around 10,000 hours... always nice to have more great sounding tubes  
  
 Cheers


----------



## guy3134

can some one explain to me how am i the only one in this thread with defective aunes???


----------



## zoneykid

guy3134 said:


> can some one explain to me how am i the only one in this thread with defective aunes???


 
 Same reason why my laptop, wireless mouse and phone all broke within a couple weeks of each other.
  
 Hope you manage to get a working T1 eventually :<


----------



## mikoss

Maybe it's a power issue? How exactly are they defective?


----------



## penmarker

guy3134 said:


> can some one explain to me how am i the only one in this thread with defective aunes???


 
 Mine is defective too. The left channel is significantly louder than the right.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Check your gain settings (the jumper switches on the bottom), mine somehow gets off and it's always the gain settings.


----------



## rids57

Mine had balance problems and static on the left channel too. I pulled the tube and switched all the switches a few times and have been using it a lot for the last couple of weeks and so far (touch wood), neither problem has resurfaced.


----------



## penmarker

ncsuzoso said:


> Check your gain settings (the jumper switches on the bottom), mine somehow gets off and it's always the gain settings.


 
 Nope not the gain settings. The problem is in the DAC portion of the unit. As an amp works fine, but if I USB in > RCA out, it has channel imbalance.


----------



## audioisemotion

Did the recap last night and have left it running all night.
  
 I did try listening and it was totally distorted.
  
 I've had to turn the volume down to about 10% on Foobar and crank up my separate headphone amp from 1/4 to 3/4 and it sounds fine.
  
 It is however useless without the separate amp as even with the volume full up I can't hear much coming through the headphones.
  
 Moral of the story...Stick with the tried capacitors in the forum and don't try to upgrade them.
  
 That being said, I have listened a bit to it this morning (it's constantly burning in at the moment) and it sounds...different. totally different in fact.
  
 The sound stage is very very wide and out of the head and in front. Everything sounds a bit more separated, spaced out and slightly further away but clearer too.
  
 The slight sibilance on a couple of Daina Krall tracks has vanished and the frequency range sounds flatter and extends further into the high ranges.
  
 Caps are
 Nicholson nka-240 3300uf 25v x2
 black gate std 47uf 50v x2
 elina cerafine 470uf 25v x4


----------



## audioisemotion

not nicholsons  nichicon


----------



## guy3134

my first aune had distortion that was overwhelming.
  
 the second has "ticks" when i switch song on foobar, and moving through the seekbar.


----------



## mikoss

audioisemotion said:


> Did the recap last night and have left it running all night.
> 
> I did try listening and it was totally distorted.
> 
> ...


 
 Hmm, distortion... that sucks. Did you get a chance to test out the caps before you put them in? I've heard sometimes the polarity marking on the case can be pointing to the wrong lead. (Don't know if a backwards cap would just explode, or maybe just cause distortion...)
  
 I've heard good things about the Cerafine's, and also the Black Gates... sounds like if you could get the distortion to go away, you'd be happy with the upgrade? Keep us posted on how they burn in, if you decide to keep them. Thanks!


----------



## audioisemotion

I don't have a meter capable of testing capacitance, so no I didn't test them.
  
 I might put the original power caps back, dropping the nichicon's. Test it then move forward through the chain replacing the originals and testing the effect as I go.
  
 I'll need to buy a meter which can do caps.


----------



## mikoss

You can also very easily test caps with an ohmmeter (I'm an electrician and usually just use my ohmmeter).
  
 It won't verify that their capacitance value matches specification, but it will verify that the capacitor isn't open or shorted, and also that the polarity marking is correct.
  
 Put your meter on resistance (ohms), and then meter leads to the capacitor leads... one way the capacitor will charge, so very low resistance (starts around 0 ohms) and climbs up to a high value of resistance (probably Megaohms, once the capacitor is charged - the meter may also show OL which means overload, which means open, or very high resistance).
  
 Put your meter back to volts DC, and then let the capacitor discharge through your meter leads... it will show 9 volts, or whatever value the capacitor charged to, and then go down to zero volts, as the capacitor discharges into your voltmeter.
  
 This is a very easy way to verify that the caps are good, without having to buy a meter with a capacitance check on it.
  
 edit: Of course, capacitors store energy and could have dangerous voltage present. You can discharge capacitors through a voltmeter and should be aware of the danger. I've also read a bunch of sites suggesting to short capacitors out to discharge them which is very stupid and can cause the capacitors to rupture. The caps in the Aune don't hold dangerous charges, just put in the edit for others as well so they're aware.


----------



## MrEleventy

Meh, I just remembered about wanting to change the caps in my Aune T1 but that was after I placed an order at Mouser for more DIY audio jacks. :\


----------



## audioisemotion

thanks for that, you learn new things all the time.


----------



## truly194

My aune t1 is cranky... 
  
 Left can is overdriving... It is not always, but a lot of time. I don't know how it happens. It's propably something with headphone amp - because if i play from external source with audio input in aune it is still.
  
 Has anyone something like that? Any issue?


----------



## Nonsensical

Currently switching between Brimar ECC88, Voskhod 6N23P and Phillips Miniwatt 6BQ7A tubes for my Aune T1. I like the Voshkods the most for pop/modern music.


----------



## MrEleventy

truly194 said:


> My aune t1 is cranky...
> 
> Left can is overdriving... It is not always, but a lot of time. I don't know how it happens. It's propably something with headphone amp - because if i play from external source with audio input in aune it is still.
> 
> Has anyone something like that? Any issue?


If the external source is via the RCA in, then it's not the amp. The amp bypasses the dac entirely. If you get the issue when playing via USB and headphone out and RCA out is effected, it's the dac.


----------



## truly194

"If the external source is via the RCA in, then it's not the amp. The amp bypasses the dac entirely. If you get the issue when playing via USB and headphone out and RCA out is effected, it's the dac"
No, i think it is in other way! When i use other dac, and aune t1 as amp, then i have still overdriving. When i use only by aune still is overdriving. I dont have any other amp here so i cant use aune only as a dac at this moment. But i think, that if i will use aune only as a dac it will be ok. Anyone knows what it can be? Something popular?


----------



## MrEleventy

What is the external source? A laptop? How are you using this external source?


----------



## SonnyA85

Looking to pair this with Fidelio X1's
  
 Is there any point in upgrading the valve/tube?
  
 If so what is the best value for money in terms of performance tube out there?
  
 I bought the Fidelio X1's not because they are the best but they offer incredible value for money and I want the same from a DAC/AMP so was just wondering what the best options are for pairing with Fidelio X1's?
  
 Use them for music mainly rap, hip hop, rnb, dance, pop, etc as well as movies and tv shows.
  
 I'm in the UK so anyone know of a decent supplier out here?


----------



## dana789

welcome to the T1 thread. It's pretty ponderous, and picking through the entire thread is a bit of chore. But if you use the "search this thread" button at the top of the page, you'll quickly find lots of chatter about the X1-T1 combo including some specific recommendations about tubes. Let us all know what you decide and how it all sounds to you.
  
 dana789


----------



## truly194

The external source is dac smsl sd793


----------



## MrEleventy

Yes, so you're using the aune t1's rca in, which bypasses the dac so you're just using the t1's amp. So it's not the amp that's overdriving. it's the dac itself.


----------



## truly194

Yes, im using only amp and oerdriving still is.


----------



## penmarker

Dude, he's bypassing the DAC when overdriving happens. How can that be because of the DAC. It's the amp portion, not DAC.


----------



## MrEleventy

Yeah, I went back and re-read his post, the last sentence makes more sense now. He wasn't say "it's still(calm)", he's saying that "it's still [there]". My bad.


----------



## SonnyA85

dana789 said:


> welcome to the T1 thread. It's pretty ponderous, and picking through the entire thread is a bit of chore. But if you use the "search this thread" button at the top of the page, you'll quickly find lots of chatter about the X1-T1 combo including some specific recommendations about tubes. Let us all know what you decide and how it all sounds to you.
> 
> dana789


 
 well i ordered military grade 6N23P.
  
 i was just wondering if there was a go to tube for pairing with the X1.
  
 but it seems like it's all subjective and depends on the type of sound you want to suit you personally.
  
 starting to think maybe a solid state dac would of been better as i am going to end up plowing lots of money testing tubes now instead of just enjoying the kit i have.


----------



## Nonsensical

sonnya85 said:


> well i ordered military grade 6N23P.
> 
> i was just wondering if there was a go to tube for pairing with the X1.
> 
> ...


 
 I love my Voshkod 6N23P tube - you won't regret it. I use the Aune T1 as a standalone DAC/AMP combination, though.


----------



## rwpritchett

sonnya85 said:


> i was just wondering if there was a go to tube for pairing with the X1.
> 
> but it seems like it's all subjective and depends on the type of sound you want to suit you personally.




I've got a T1 and X1 and 9 different tubes. I can give you some impressions if I get a little time to do so.


----------



## SonnyA85

rwpritchett said:


> I've got a T1 and X1 and 9 different tubes. I can give you some impressions if I get a little time to do so.


 
 Yeah that would be great.
  
 Also if you could take value for money into account too. As some valves out there are crazy expensive.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

rwpritchett said:


> I've got a T1 and X1 and 9 different tubes. I can give you some impressions if I get a little time to do so.


 
  
 What type of tubes do you have?  Any Siemens CCa or any other German made tubes?


----------



## rwpritchett

I'm on the hunt for an inexpensive German-made Siemens, Mullard, Telefunken, or GE branded tube at the moment. Right now, most of my tubes are Amperex. Here's what I've got so far:

1962 Holland Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 Bugle Boy Large Halo Getter (Tektronix)
1963 Holland Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 White Label Small Halo Getter
1964 USA Amperex USN-CEP E188CC/7308 Vintage Gold Pin White Label Large Halo Getter (cryo treated)
1970 Holland Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 Orange Globe A Frame Dimple Disc Getter
1972 Holland GE ECC85/6AQ8 Single Leg Dimple Disc Getter
1976 Gt. Britain (Mullard) Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 Orange Globe A Frame Dimple Disc Getter
2013 Russian Genalex E88CC/6922 Gold Lion
2013 Russian Electro-Harmonix E88CC/6922EH (#1)
2013 Russian Electro-Harmonix E88CC/6922EH (#2)

My Fidelio X1's are new and I haven't put many hours on them yet.


----------



## bobadrunk

Welp, just snapped one of the gain switches off, praying that it snapped off into the off position at least. Is there a way to fix  the switch? It's annoying how brittle and stiff these switches are...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

You can look on somewhere like Mouser and get another switch and solder it in after removing the old one.  That is if you are comfortable with soldering/desoldering.


----------



## bobadrunk

Yeah that is definitely not something I'm willing to try yet...


----------



## penmarker

mreleventy said:


> Yeah, I went back and re-read his post, the last sentence makes more sense now. He wasn't say "it's still(calm)", he's saying that "it's still [there]". My bad.


 
 Man I always feel bad when someone stands corrected. My bad for getting off at the wrong foot too.


----------



## truly194

So? Any issue?


----------



## rwpritchett

sonnya85 said:


> Yeah that would be great.
> 
> Also if you could take value for money into account too. As some valves out there are crazy expensive.


Since the Fildelios have a rather "V" shaped sound signature, I find tubes that boost the mids sound the best in my own set up. I gave a quick audition with all my tubes on the same tracks and for me I like the sound of the white label Amperex 6DJ8 and Amperex Bugle Boy the most (though you may note from my tube collection I'm partial to the Amperex sound). The Genalex Gold Lion was really good too and has a similar sound signature to the stock 6922EH tube, just with everything better across the range. It gives mid vocals a little more prominence. You also can't go wrong with an Orange Globe tube.

The Gold Lion is a bit on the expensive side for what you can get in a better sounding vintage tube IMO. You can pick up a multiple vintage tubes for the price of one Gold Lion on eBay if you are patient. I only paid $5 for the white label 6DJ8 and $9 for the Bugle Boy both of which sound better to me.

Again, my Fidelios are brand new and I haven't properly burned them in yet so my impressions may change over time. Also, I've got a GE ECC86 tube on its way. I might add impressions for that tube later.


----------



## MrEleventy

truly194 said:


> So? Any issue?


If you have a RCA male to 3.5mm female, you can try using that to see if it's just the amp doing it. I think you might have a defective unit tho. Good luck w/ that.



penmarker said:


> Man I always feel bad when someone stands corrected. My bad for getting off at the wrong foot too.


It's all good. You're probably just working out T1 frustrations.


----------



## truly194

I will try with other amp when i come home.


----------



## truly194

Ok - disortion happens when aune is warm, if it is off, and i start listeting them everything is ok...


----------



## steffinger92

Thanks to all of you guys, this thread is really informative when one is looking for tubes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Once I have all my tubes (some of which are not fully reviewed here), I'll also post some tube impressions.


----------



## penmarker

Good news, there are some official distributors for Aune here in my country (Malaysia) and I've contacted one to ask if she could help with the repairing of the unit. The unit will be sent back to the factory in China through her so it should be fine.
  
 Finally, I can get over the annoying channel imbalance. Pfffttt...


----------



## teb1013

ncsuzoso said:


> What type of tubes do you have?  Any Siemens CCa or any other German made tubes?




I have the Siemans E88CC Gold. It is a fine, very musical tube. In my opinion not quite up to the Amperex 7308, which remains my go to tube. The Voskhod is, very well suited for rock, a bit too "in your face" for classical, which constitutes a good deal of my listening.


----------



## hk6230

Finally I'm able to setup my Aune T1 for my office use. Initially, the sound from the headphone output sounded very microphobic. Initially I thought it was the Win7 driver issue. After one by one problem isolation, I found the real culprit. It was the 6.3mm-3.5mm adapter. After replacing it, the sound is normal again. However, I found another problem today. After playing a SACD source using JRiver MC19, playing a normal CD-quality audio, the sound has some cracking noise. To resolve this, I have to power off and on my T1 to make it normal again.
  
 I wonder anyone else has encountered this problem before and how to resolve this problem permanently, if any?


----------



## ElBartoME

I finally got my amp together and working. I've been waiting for the parts for about 2 months now. The little T1 is only used as a DAC now. I'm using two Siemens E88CC tubes in my amp for now until I can verify that the amp is working properly. But everything seems to be fine for now after 1 hour of testing. The sound is incredible. I just got a tiny little bit of hum on the right channel but I think I can fix that.
  
 I can't wait to use my Valvo or Philips Miniwatt SQ tubes in this amp.


----------



## MrEleventy

Nice, what is that? A Millet?


----------



## ElBartoME

mreleventy said:


> Nice, what is that? A Millet?


 
  
 Thanks. No, it is based on this design here: http://diyaudioprojects.com/Tubes/6DJ8-Tube-Headphone-Amp/
  
 I just made some slight modifications to the power supply. For example the heater voltage on my unit is variable (I set it to 6,3V) instead of a fixed 6V. Technically I could change it to 7V and use PCC88 tubes without any problem. But I'm fine with my E88CC tubes.


----------



## mikoss

teb1013 said:


> I have the Siemans E88CC Gold. It is a fine, very musical tube. In my opinion not quite up to the Amperex 7308, which remains my go to tube. The Voskhod is, very well suited for rock, a bit too "in your face" for classical, which constitutes a good deal of my listening.


 
 +1 exactly my impressions of those tubes... I've kept an Amperex 7308 PQ in my Aune for the last 5 weeks or so, but swap in the Siemens every once in a while.
  
 What kind of headphones are you listening with? I use HD-650's, but I was considering perhaps trying some Audeze... The Sennheisers are very nice especially with mids, but I sometimes want to hear more of the highs. (I'm considering trying out LCD 2.2's... heard the bass goes a bit deeper, and the presentation of the highs is more extended).


----------



## mikoss

A nice suggestion for everyone to try and let me know what you think... (in light of the new Aune T1 MK2)
  
 I never believed that jitter was an issue until researching into it recently. Basically, I was extremely skeptical that jitter would actually affect my DACs, since I never heard any pops/cracks/fizzles/distortion. Well, what I read was that you don't actually ever hear "jitter", but you will actually hear an improvement if you reduce jitter. I guess this might sound stupid, but I decided to try a test and see if I could hear any difference.
  
 Normally, I play most of my FLAC files off a portable hard drive, which is connected through a USB 2 port... I decided to load my files into my laptops RAM instead and play them directly from there. My laptop also has a solid state drive, but the RAM is much faster for reading from. I loaded a foobar plugin called "foo_ramdisk" which allows for the files to be temporarily loaded into RAM and fed over to the Aune T1.
  
 I have to say that I actually do think the sound is improved... it sounds slightly more detailed and clear to me, and perhaps a little less muddled (not that I found it muddled to begin with). Could I tell the difference doing a blind test? Probably not... maybe it's a placebo effect! 
  
 I did like the plugin enough to install a program which creates a permanent RAM disk... you basically tell it how much memory to allocate to a dedicated drive.
  
 This is making me think that the new T1 may actually sound better, even with the same components, as it is supposed to reduce jitter through an asynchronous implementation.
  
 I'd love to hear some opinions and for some people to call me out


----------



## leocuellar

Hi everybody, I need help desperately. I just bought my AUNE T1 to use it with my iMac with OSX Mavericks according to everything I've read, it should be recognized automatically by the computer but it is not, I tried changing the usb port, restarting both the computer and the T1, and nothing seems to work, does anyone know a way to make it work? Please help!
  
 Thank you!
  
 Leo


----------



## steffinger92

mikoss said:


> I have to say that I actually do think the sound is improved... it sounds slightly more detailed and clear to me, and perhaps a little less muddled (not that I found it muddled to begin with). Could I tell the difference doing a blind test? Probably not... maybe it's a placebo effect!


 
  
 Mh I must say I find that hard to believe. Usually the driver or playback software will create a buffer of some sort to ensure the DAC will be fed continuously with data. I had another DAC with ASIO drivers and constantly had issues with it because it did not feed the DAC well.
 But I think if playing the audio files from RAM really ensures a more continuous flow of data towards the DAC, I still don't see how this could make the sound clearer. It would only remove audible jitter-caused noise or split-second silent parts  (and I know from broken FLAC files that even 1/1000s silence is very, very audible so you'd hear that definitely).
So you will probably imagine to really hear a difference there. And changing tubes or headphones will surely change/improve the sound much more 
  
 However I'd also love to hear a MK1 vs. MK2 comparison. Six weeks ago when I ordered my MK1, the MK2 (230V) was nowhere for sale. Now I've seen it on Amazon.co.uk... damn...


----------



## JakeMcCarthy94

This is pretty random but I am using my T1 as a DAC for my 2.1 setup. I have a Polk PWS505 (300 watt 12in subwoofer), is the vibration coming from the sub going to damage the T1 in anyway?


----------



## steffinger92

jakemccarthy94 said:


> This is pretty random but I am using my T1 as a DAC for my 2.1 setup. I have a Polk PWS505 (300 watt 12in subwoofer), is the vibration coming from the sub going to damage the T1 in anyway?


 
 http://www.upscaleaudio.com/tube-faq/
  
 According to the last paragraph, external vibrations *could* be picked up by the tube and influence the sound. And maybe if you place the T1 right on top of your subwoofer the tube could be shaken as badly as if you would tap on it. Maybe I'm not an expert but just came across this article yesterday.


----------



## inouekun

leocuellar said:


> Hi everybody, I need help desperately. I just bought my AUNE T1 to use it with my iMac with OSX Mavericks according to everything I've read, it should be recognized automatically by the computer but it is not, I tried changing the usb port, restarting both the computer and the T1, and nothing seems to work, does anyone know a way to make it work? Please help!
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Leo


 
  
 Have you option click on the speaker logo on finder bar and choose Aune T1 as output device?


----------



## scociu

I am looking to buy one for use with my dt700 250 ohm. I cannot figure out if this is the latest, MK 2, version or not: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QJMRY


----------



## mikoss

scociu said:


> I am looking to buy one for use with my dt700 250 ohm. I cannot figure out if this is the latest, MK 2, version or not: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QJMRY


 
 That would be the original version, upgrade edition (comes with a 6922 EH tube), NOT the mark 2. 
  
 (The mark 2 will state the USB receiver as SA-9027)
  
 From Amazon:
*Item model number:* T1
  Product Description This is the best selling 2013 T1 24BIT TUBE USB DAC w/Upgraded EH 6922 Tube!


----------



## Besdomny

leocuellar said:


> Hi everybody, I need help desperately. I just bought my AUNE T1 to use it with my iMac with OSX Mavericks according to everything I've read, it should be recognized automatically by the computer but it is not, I tried changing the usb port, restarting both the computer and the T1, and nothing seems to work, does anyone know a way to make it work? Please help!
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Leo


 
 Hi Leo,

  
 I just got my Aune T1 MK2 and experienced the same problem you are describing. I don't have a Mac, I have a Linux computer with openSUSE and Audacious.
 I restarted my pc several times and there had been a change but unfortunately resulting in an error message.

  
 I could solve the problem by connecting to an USB Hub with external power supply. Immediately the Aune had been recognized. Maybe you could try an external USB Hub. There may be an issue with the USB cable and Mac computers because I received a message asking whether I had trouble with my Aune or not.

 Good luck!


----------



## leocuellar

> I just got my Aune T1 MK2 and experienced the same problem you are describing. I don't have a Mac, I have a Linux computer with openSUSE and Audacious.
> I restarted my pc several times and there had been a change but unfortunately resulting in an error message.
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 Yes, you're right, I tried the same yesterday and it worked, I sent an email to aune's support account and they are trying to send me something by email I don`t know what it is but it is too big my gmail account couldn't receive it, so they asked me to give them another email account which can receive bigger files, I don't have an idea what are they trying to send me, maybe an app or driver for macOX?? I will see if I can receive the file with my other email account (work) and hopefully in that email is the solution to the problem... I will keep you posted.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

For people getting static or distortion; I had some last night while playing a MKV file through PowerDVD 14 (which can now force WASAPI) and it started giving random static.
  
 However once I changed the source material to another MKV file everything was fine.  I don't think this our T1's doing this, I think it is more related to the source.


----------



## teb1013

mikoss said:


> +1 exactly my impressions of those tubes... I've kept an Amperex 7308 PQ in my Aune for the last 5 weeks or so, but swap in the Siemens every once in a while.
> 
> What kind of headphones are you listening with? I use HD-650's, but I was considering perhaps trying some Audeze... The Sennheisers are very nice especially with mids, but I sometimes want to hear more of the highs. (I'm considering trying out LCD 2.2's... heard the bass goes a bit deeper, and the presentation of the highs is more extended).




Right now I'm using Sennheiser HD558s. I hope to graduate to HD 600 which I think will be better for classical than the 650.


----------



## ClintonL

Hey guys, just got one, looking for a tube around 30ish USD. Have no idea what to get. Mostly listen to vocal trance and am using hd650's.
  

 Cheers


----------



## MrFaust

I don't suppose there is a way to change out the dac in the Aune T1 to handle 24bit 192kHz is there?


----------



## MrEleventy

It's not the dac. It can already handle 24/192 (Burr-Brown PCM1793). It's the USB receiver that limiting it (Tenor TE7022L). It's a smd chip, it's probably not worth your time doing it. The TE8802 can handle 24/192 but it's a lot bigger so it's not a simple swap. Might need to install it into a daughter board and then wire the pin outs correctly, if that's even possible. 

TL;DR: No.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Can we go into more detail on how to change that out?  I'm interested.


----------



## MrEleventy

Well, for one you're going to have to convert this to this. I don't know the pin outs but if they're all there, you can possibly do it. I don't have access to the spec sheets, my work's firewall blocks me from them so I can't tell outside of just visually inspecting. I thought about possible decoupling the USB port from the board, inverting it and wiring it to the Audio-GD board but then you'll need to find a way to get the signal back into the path of the tube. Rock grotto has some high quality internal images if you want to do some scouting w/o taking the T1 apart. Link here.


----------



## SonnyA85

What gain settings should be used with Sennheiser HD600's?
  
 Also with AKG Q701?
  
 I use 0db with Fidelio X1


----------



## rwpritchett

My own rule of thumb is use the lowest gain that gets you past the 9 o'clock position on the volume pot for your typical listening volume. If you have to max it out to get good volume, then up the gain.


----------



## steffinger92

True but the gain also heavily depends on your music files and how they are mastered. Just think of the extreme contrast between digitally released EDM compared to high quality recordings of classical (piano) music.


----------



## ClintonL

Anyone got any reccomendations on a fun sounding tube for mostly vocal trance.


----------



## mikoss

clintonl said:


> Anyone got any reccomendations on a fun sounding tube for mostly vocal trance.


 
 Here are some recommendations from my ears... 
  
 If you can afford an Amperex 7308, Siemens E88CC gold pin, or Amperex Orange Globe (GAC is my fave) I'd recommend them. 
  
 If your budget is more limited, the Voskhod rocket is super cheap and musical (I've seen them on ebay for $10 usd). If you're in Canada, I'll send you over a rocket for the cost of shipping (if you're elsewhere, it's cheaper just to buy them on ebay).
  
 If you need help finding a tube on ebay, let me know and I can give you some examples. Also, what tube do you have in the T1 at the moment? How many hours have you listened to the tube, and what are your impressions of your music with it?
  
 Cheers.


----------



## mikoss

steffinger92 said:


> Mh I must say I find that hard to believe. Usually the driver or playback software will create a buffer of some sort to ensure the DAC will be fed continuously with data. I had another DAC with ASIO drivers and constantly had issues with it because it did not feed the DAC well.
> But I think if playing the audio files from RAM really ensures a more continuous flow of data towards the DAC, I still don't see how this could make the sound clearer. It would only remove audible jitter-caused noise or split-second silent parts  (and I know from broken FLAC files that even 1/1000s silence is very, very audible so you'd hear that definitely).
> So you will probably imagine to really hear a difference there. And changing tubes or headphones will surely change/improve the sound much more
> 
> However I'd also love to hear a MK1 vs. MK2 comparison. Six weeks ago when I ordered my MK1, the MK2 (230V) was nowhere for sale. Now I've seen it on Amazon.co.uk... damn...


 
  
 Funny story, the improvement in sound was my capacitors just breaking over 80 hours and completely opening up. I thought the improvement in sound was my ramdisk, but it's the caps, lol.
  
 I thought the HD 650's were lacking deep bass and crisp detail in the highs, but it turns out that I had never properly amplified them. (From this experience, I think the stock capacitors in the T1 will not properly amplify these headphones... the power is there, but they're sorely lacking deep bass and details.) I'd never heard what these headphones were capable of until now... I used to think the tamer highs were because of the HD-650's signature sound, but it was my source.
  
 I wouldn't worry about the mk2 just coming out, I have no ambition to ever upgrade to it, hearing what the mk1 is capable of. I will post impressions if I ever get a chance to hear the mk2 though


----------



## Besdomny

mikoss said:


> Here are some recommendations from my ears...
> 
> If you can afford an Amperex 7308, Siemens E88CC gold pin, or Amperex Orange Globe (GAC is my fave) I'd recommend them.
> 
> ...


 
 Hi,
  
 Interesting recommendations. I got the MK2 a few days ago, it comes with an Electro Harmonix 6922. I have only been listening a few hours but I love the sound especially when playing classical music. I have the HD 598. I am currently waiting for 3 Russian tubes and a Tesla. I'd be interested in your ebay sources (but I live in Europe).


----------



## steffinger92

> Originally Posted by *Besdomny* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> Interesting recommendations. I got the MK2 a few days ago, it comes with an Electro Harmonix 6922. I have only been listening a few hours but I love the sound especially when playing classical music. I have the HD 598. I am currently waiting for 3 Russian tubes and a Tesla. I'd be interested in your ebay sources (but I live in Europe).


 
  
 I did some extensive tube buying on eBay these weeks and I even got a 'rocket logo' for 5€ (50% of it shipping). It's funny though, E88CC - especially Valvo and Telefunken - will fetch much higher prices than, say, PCC88 (which are exchangeable for the T1 and I guess most other applications of this sort). eBay is all but logical.
 The other day I got one Mullard (with Lorenz print) and two Valvo PCC88 (all tested 'good') for all together 10$. Never thought I would. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 eBay just requires time...


----------



## mikoss

steffinger92 said:


> I did some extensive tube buying on eBay these weeks and I even got a 'rocket logo' for 5€ (50% of it shipping). It's funny though, E88CC - especially Valvo and Telefunken - will fetch much higher prices than, say, PCC88 (which are exchangeable for the T1 and I guess most other applications of this sort). eBay is all but logical.
> The other day I got one Mullard (with Lorenz print) and two Valvo PCC88 (all tested 'good') for all together 10$. Never thought I would.
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Watch the PCC88... it doesn't always work in the T1. (A lot of reports of distortion among different PCC88's that you can read on this thread). That may be why it's cheaper...
  
 I find the Siemens E88CC has deeper bass than the Amperex 7308 PQ I have. The Amperex has richer, more refined mids which I usually prefer, just slightly. The E88CC does a wonderful job on sparkling, extended highs. Also I find it produces a depth in my music that the Amperex doesn't quite achieve... almost like being in a deep ocean of sound.
  
 Hope the PCC88's work for you! I will send you some eBay info by PM @Besdomny


----------



## steffinger92

mikoss said:


> Watch the PCC88... it doesn't always work in the T1. (A lot of reports of distortion among different PCC88's that you can read on this thread). That may be why it's cheaper...


 
  
 Yes I've read about that. But I just follow the strategy to buy a couple of these tubes very cheaply and then I'll just try them. Maybe I'm lucky and get a good one, maybe not. And then I'll just sell them again and end up paying a few € for postage.


----------



## Mormonsloot (Sep 25, 2017)

.


----------



## MrEleventy

Why not search for HD600 in this thread...?


----------



## SpiderNhan

mormonsloot said:


> So since I do not have the time to read through 366 pages, is this still one of the better budget ($150-200) choices to drive HD600's?


 
 I've never used it with the HD600, but I find the T1 lacking in just driving my 32ohm M-100 on 0 gain. I run RCA cables out to either my FiiO E17 or E9 as I prefer the amps in those more. The T1 amp sounds a bit dull and lacking in dynamics to my ears. My anchor tube is a 1969 Holland Amperex OG 6DJ8.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Well I will tell you I am running 32 ohm headphones into the T1 with the gain all the way up, haha.


----------



## mikoss

Your ears must bleed.

I run my HD-650s at +16db gain at maybe 1/4 volume. (6 dots up). This is plenty loud for me...

Oh edit for everything on the computer at full volume, feeding the DAC.


----------



## penmarker

The impedance might be low at 32 Ohm, but the sensitivity might be low as well so you'll need to either crank the volume up or dial the gain up to get your preferred volume.


----------



## MrEleventy

Supposed output impedance is 10ohm. Going by impedance matching w/ factor of 8, you'll want to run 80+ ohm hps. 32 is mismatching which might be an issue w/ driving them.

E: When I do run from the HP out directly (T90@250 ohm and T1@600 ohm), I can do 0 gain and about halfway and they run fine.


----------



## Mormonsloot (Sep 25, 2017)

.


----------



## MrEleventy

I love it as a dac. Amp wise, it's ok IMO. I've used it to drive HD600s before but I still prefer outputting into a seperate amp. I would get the Aune T1 if I was expecting to get an amp also. If I can only have an all in one unit... I'd get an Audio GD.


----------



## mikoss

mikoss said:


> Watch the PCC88... it doesn't always work in the T1. (A lot of reports of distortion among different PCC88's that you can read on this thread). That may be why it's cheaper...




@CoiL just PM'd asking if I'd confused PCC88's with PCC85's, which I completely did. Sorry, the PCC88s just use different heater voltages... They should work fine with no distortion; glad you're able to get them cheap! 

Also thanks for the PM @CoiL.  don't want to mislead anyone.


----------



## Hixs

Is the amperex 7308 a bit much for my first tube? I'm looking for punchy bass. Perhaps the much cheaper rocket for starters?


----------



## jipan

So at last my new tubes is safely in my hand. But.... as I'm currently traveling, I wouldn't able to give any comment on how they sound until Wednesday at least.

RTC labeled Philips ECC189, HP labeled Amperex 6DJ8 / ECC88 and Philips PCC88. I guess all will have similar sound since they were all amperex made?
Pretty cheap, totaled 50 Euro after all tax and delivery cost.

ps: sorry for the pic quality. Dark room and crappy phone camera = grainy low quality pic.


----------



## xkonfuzed

Hey guys, whats up? 
  
 So its about damn time i upgraded the stock tubes on my T1.. i have been using the stock tubes ever since i got the T1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 im looking for tubes that are bassy and have warm mids that fit the T1 without any mods, budget isn't really a problem.
  
 Suggestions?


----------



## penmarker

So when you say "budget isn't really a problem", do you mean "budget isn't really a problem" $100 or "budget isn't really a problem" $500 or "budget isn't really a problem" $1000?


----------



## xkonfuzed

penmarker said:


> So when you say "budget isn't really a problem", do you mean "budget isn't really a problem" $100 or "budget isn't really a problem" $500 or "budget isn't really a problem" $1000?




Oh come on be realistic xD budget isn't problem ($100)


----------



## NCSUZoSo

xkonfuzed said:


> Hey guys, whats up?
> 
> So its about damn time i upgraded the stock tubes on my T1.. i have been using the stock tubes ever since i got the T1
> 
> ...


 
  
 I really like Siemens 6992 tubes made between 1960-1970, but sometimes they go for $100 easily if they test above NOS like mine did.  Mine is a possible CCa tube which is extremely rare because of the number/lettering and it says Made in Germany on the side.  Only downside to Siemens is they aren't as punchy in the bass range as say a Smokey GE.


----------



## xkonfuzed

ncsuzoso said:


> I really like Siemens 6992 tubes made between 1960-1970, but sometimes they go for $100 easily if they test above NOS like mine did.  Mine is a possible CCa tube which is extremely rare because of the number/lettering and it says Made in Germany on the side.  Only downside to Siemens is they aren't as punchy in the bass range as say a Smokey GE.


 
 thanks, i'll look into that tube..


----------



## teb1013

xkonfuzed said:


> Hey guys, whats up?
> 
> So its about damn time i upgraded the stock tubes on my T1.. i have been using the stock tubes ever since i got the T1
> 
> ...




There are thousands of suggestions in this thread. A bit depends on the headphones that you use and the type of music that you like. For my taste (classical, classic rock, jazz with Sennheiser HD558) I love Amperex 7308 which is a very musical tube. I use "driver grade" which is fine for the T1 and cost about $50 USD from Upscale Audio. Unfortunately UA charges absurd sums for out of US mailing. I would assume that there are other sources including eBay that may do better. Use the "in thread" search for particular interests.

The Siemans is a fine tube, but I prefer the 7308 a little bit.

Good luck. Let us know how you do.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

You have a CCa Siemens?


----------



## teb1013

ncsuzoso said:


> You have a CCa Siemens?




The writing is somewhat worn off. From what I can read it says Siemans E88 CC it has gold pins. I can't see an a and I didn't get the original box. As I said it is a good tube and I will switch it with the 7308 so I can compare.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

look at the inside of the tube, is there a metal shield on both sides (once you figure out the orientation) and if so what does it say?


----------



## steffinger92

mikoss said:


> @CoiL just PM'd asking if I'd confused PCC88's with PCC85's, which I completely did. Sorry, the PCC88s just use different heater voltages... They should work fine with no distortion; glad you're able to get them cheap!
> 
> Also thanks for the PM @CoiL.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Yeah I actually thought so too, because when you search the thread for 'distortion' the only thing you'll find are posts concerning ECC85 tubes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 But no problem, I just didn't have much time for the forum lately that's why I didn't comment on that.
 Can't wait to hear all these tubes...


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> look at the inside of the tube, is there a metal shield on both sides (once you figure out the orientation) and if so what does it say?


 
 Also, some of the Siemens tubes have date codes screen-printed on the sides... a couple of mine don't have anything on the shield, but they're screened (you may need to look very closely and use a light to catch the screening). Mine aren't CCa's though 
  
 Hey teb, I find the Siemens to have deeper bass compared to the 7308, and perhaps a bit more representation of highs. I'm very interested in hearing your impressions as well, as I have a very tough time figuring out which tube to keep in my T1.


----------



## wgkwgk

mikoss said:


> Also, some of the Siemens tubes have date codes screen-printed on the sides... a couple of mine don't have anything on the shield, but they're screened (you may need to look very closely and use a light to catch the screening). Mine aren't CCa's though
> 
> Hey teb, I find the Siemens to have deeper bass compared to the 7308, and perhaps a bit more representation of highs. I'm very interested in hearing your impressions as well, as I have a very tough time figuring out which tube to keep in my T1.


 

 FYI,
 my CCa has the code on the shield.
  
 But, the main reason I'm chirping in is that I find the CCa to be my reference tube.  (It should be, it cost enough!)  Seriously, it will have deeper base and more highs--that's the nature of this tube. (YMMV)
  
 That said, regarding "...which tube to keep in my T1" I'm laughing (at myself), with five tubes, 6 cans and 4 IEMs.  Tube-can/IEM-genre-recording quality combos are a crap-shoot for me at the moment--but sure is fun when I hit the mark!  More toys than time...
  
 Regards,


----------



## H20Fidelity

I was reading through the thread a few weeks back regarding how many people break the plastic (and weak) tube protectors supplied with Aune T1. Having knocked mine twice by accident with brush of the hand I became tired of the supplied protectors . I discovered a post by one member many pages back who was going to try one of these protectors found on eBay though he never did return to my knowledge with the outcome. Thinking it was a great idea I decided to order one myself.  

 It hasn't been fixed yet, nor have I polished the chrome, though I have a plan of attack for attaching it full-time. I think it gives the Aune quite a new appearance.


----------



## MrEleventy

Very nice. I might install a guard now. Especially since I've settled down on the rolling.


----------



## H20Fidelity

mreleventy said:


> Very nice. I might install a guard now. Especially since I've settled down on the rolling.


 


 I believe a black on gold version would also work well, (they're the same price)

 Here's a virtual reality version I whipped up. 





 About attaching the tube guard:

 It will be secured quite easily by drilling three additional holes on the top-base of Aune. You just need to be careful not to let any aluminum drop inside the unit. To do this I suggest using a vacuum while drilling and do it slowly whilst the unit is on Its side. What you want is a drill bit just a tiny bit bigger than the three pins (or Allen key bolts) sticking out the top of the tube guard. So it will basically slot there exactly like the old plastic protectors making easy access to change tubes.




 I'll report back once this is done, though really mines been fine simply sitting there without any support. especially if the Aune is out of hands reach or on a table away from being knocked. I will however get the job done, just a matter time.


----------



## jipan

Finally able to spend some times with my new Philips PCC88. The code is GAE _Δ_6L4. This tube got about 20 hours on it. My music collections is rather diverse, from pop to classics, cross-overs, jazz, world/ethnic, rock, alternative-rock. Anything interesting and I will listen to it.
 My first impression is lower upper treble than EH 6922. The bass also lower in quantity. Philips PCC88 more neutral than the v-shaped EH 6922. Songs with boosted treble (like _James Arthur_ album) much easier to bear now. The treble is _*almost*_ too much. By almost, I mean that little bit more and I will find it painful. EH 6922 definitely sharper sounded.
 Vocal take several steps forward, maybe one or two. The sound-stage is smaller, but little bit more precise. Gotye's _Hearts a Mess_ and Adele's_ Live At The Royal Albert Hall _ sounded much more live-like than EH 6922.
  
 But, is it me or Philips PCC88 did sounded.... _rougher_? Vocals and instrument had this _raw_ sound to it, much more than the smoother EH6922. Or is it because the vocal is more forward on Philips? Or it's how the album recorded, and this tube simply let me hear it? Like how Lana Del Rey sounded on her latest album, _Ultraviolence_ (please don't shoot me, but I love her kind of voice). The electric guitars especially. Raw. Like Fatoumata Diawara guitars and vocal in her song _Kanou_.
  
 Will spend more times with this tube. Still had 2 other tubes to try. Now, if only I could find some good deal on GE smoked bottle... I kind of liking how those smoked tube looked 
 And those legendary warm Mullard, Brimar and other English made tubes. They are so expensive!


----------



## penmarker

If you're drilling holes into the body of the unit, you might as well disassemble and take the guts out.


----------



## xkonfuzed

What do you guys think of the Genalex Gold Lion E88CC tube? And how does it compare to the stock 6922EH tubes?


----------



## rwpritchett

I find the Gold Lion to have the same sound signature as the EH6922, with everything a little bit better across the range. Highs, mids, and lows more extended... a bit better sound stage. If you like the EH6922 sound, you'll probably like the Gold Lion a little bit better. YMMV of course.


----------



## xkonfuzed

rwpritchett said:


> I find the Gold Lion to have the same sound signature as the EH6922, with everything a little bit better across the range. Highs, mids, and lows more extended... a bit better sound stage. If you like the EH6922 sound, you'll probably like the Gold Lion a little bit better. YMMV of course.




Ah, i see. Would you recommend anything else at that price range ($40) ?


----------



## cafeine

Just received mine....paired to Sony MDR-XB1000 headphones.. First impressions ....XB1000 woke up from the dead and they are dancing! First time I feel the speaker moving. Sound is good, clear with lots of dBs! Love it!


----------



## rwpritchett

xkonfuzed said:


> Ah, i see. Would you recommend anything else at that price range ($40) ?


It's hard to say without knowing the sound you are looking for. You can't go wrong with any of the vintage Amperex tubes from the 60's and early 70's. The Holland made Orange Globe tubes are very musical and sweeten the sound.


----------



## MrEleventy

xkonfuzed said:


> Ah, i see. Would you recommend anything else at that price range ($40) ?


I got a Sylvania 6BK7B for super cheap, $4 shipped, sounds great and I think it would work really well with the 880s and MA900s. Nice wide and airy soundstage, good bass. Neutral mids. I love it with my T90s, should be just as good on the 880s.


----------



## xkonfuzed

rwpritchett said:


> It's hard to say without knowing the sound you are looking for. You can't go wrong with any of the vintage Amperex tubes from the 60's and early 70's. The Holland made Orange Globe tubes are very musical and sweeten the sound.



I'll look into those. Thanks 



mreleventy said:


> I got a Sylvania 6BK7B for super cheap, $4 shipped, sounds great and I think it would work really well with the 880s and MA900s. Nice wide and airy soundstage, good bass. Neutral mids. I love it with my T90s, should be just as good on the 880s.




$4? That would be a great place to start. Where did you get yours?


----------



## MrEleventy

I got mine on eBay.


----------



## doco

selling a barely used aune t1 with 2 holland amperex orange globes if anyone is interested
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/725232/aune-t1-black-with-2-6dj8-holland-amperex-orange-globes-includes-fs-and-signature-confirmation


----------



## jipan

Uh oh, looks like my HP labeled Amperex is a fake. After looking carefully, I didn't see the seam which divide the top. It also didn't had any code etched on the lower part. I tried searching HP labeled Amperex and found this http://tctubes.com/Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-white-HP-label.aspx and mine didn't match the picture. In the linked url, you can see the seam on the top part, while mine didn't had any. I only put it on T1 this afternoon, so I can't give any comment on the sound yet, but it sounded less holographic than my Phillips PCC88. The sound less defined, separation between sounds is worse. The sound also didn't had this raw quality to it. Vocals isn't as forward as my Phillips PCC88.
  
 On the other hand, I think my Phillips PCC88 is settled now. My Phillips PCC88 rawness is less after 50 hours, but still enough to give guitar and vocals edge and "real" feeling. The treble is also mellowed little bit. Definitely a keeper.


----------



## mikoss

jipan said:


> Uh oh, looks like my HP labeled Amperex is a fake. After looking carefully, I didn't see the seam which divide the top. It also didn't had any code etched on the lower part. I tried searching HP labeled Amperex and found this http://tctubes.com/Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-white-HP-label.aspx and mine didn't match the picture. In the linked url, you can see the seam on the top part, while mine didn't had any. I only put it on T1 this afternoon, so I can't give any comment on the sound yet, but it sounded less holographic than my Phillips PCC88. The sound less defined, separation between sounds is worse. The sound also didn't had this raw quality to it. Vocals isn't as forward as my Phillips PCC88.


 
  
 Did you have a link to any pics or an ebay listing of the Amperex? Hopefully it isn't a fake and will come around after a bit... just wanted to see some pics if you had any.


----------



## jipan

mikoss said:


> Did you have a link to any pics or an ebay listing of the Amperex? Hopefully it isn't a fake and will come around after a bit... just wanted to see some pics if you had any.


 

 This is the listing: http://www.ebay.de/itm/HP-Hewlett-Packard-6DJ8-ECC88-made-by-Amperex-Vacuum-Tube-Valve-TV-7-TESTED-/231111799724?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&
 and the picture (from the listing) 
 This my picture (sorry for the quality):

 I really hope this is not fake, because the vocal is kind of sweeter than my Phillips PCC88. See next post.
  
  
 EDIT: please let me add this tube had "Germany" text on it. Still searching about this tube.


----------



## mikoss

Interesting. I think it looks like a Russian tube, but I'm no expert. (Maybe Sovtek?) 
  
 Here is another listing from the same seller that I think also looks odd...
  
 http://www.ebay.de/itm/RARE-Style-AMPEREX-6DJ8-ECC88-Fat-Pinched-Bottom-VACUUM-TUBE-Cup-Getter-356-/231078581807?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item35cd5b562f&_uhb=1
  
  
  
 Interested in other opinions on these tubes. Are you going to contact him about returning it, or are you happy with the sound?


----------



## jipan

The sound is quite interesting actually. Compared to my Phillips PCC88: this tube is less detailed, but more fun. The vocal isn't as raw, and treble is even less, sometimes make me think of 'veiled'. Bass is little bit less controlled. Everything is take a step backward. Rather relaxing actually. Is this how Sovtex sounded? I'll give more comment after 50 hours, just to make sure.
  
_*I'm also interested in other opinions. Is this tube a fake? or just an oddball?*_
  
 I don't think I'm going to return it, too much hassle. And it isn't like I spend 100 dollars or something. Yes, $25 is a high price for Russian tube, but_ let it be my lesson to be more careful next time_ 
  
And I still got a tube to test: RTC labeled Philips ECC189 which I believe a real deal, since it got seam at the top and code etched at the bottom part.
  
 Quote:


mikoss said:


> Interesting. I think it looks like a Russian tube, but I'm no expert. (Maybe Sovtek?)
> 
> Here is another listing from the same seller that I think also looks odd...
> 
> ...


----------



## ElBartoME

mikoss said:


> Interesting. I think it looks like a Russian tube, but I'm no expert. (Maybe Sovtek?)
> 
> Here is another listing from the same seller that I think also looks odd...
> 
> ...


 
  
 I also think that they look like russian tubes. And the Sovtek is really looking similar.
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-SOVTEK-6922-Pre-Ampr-Tube-E88CC-ECC88-CCa-6DJ8-/321141640917


----------



## Salvatore

xkonfuzed said:


> What do you guys think of the Genalex Gold Lion E88CC tube? And how does it compare to the stock 6922EH tubes?


 
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294
  
 I'd go for Amperex 7308. It's the king regardless of headphones. This being said you can probably find cheaper alternatives to match your headphone signature.


----------



## xkonfuzed

salvatore said:


> http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294
> 
> I'd go for Amperex 7308. It's the king regardless of headphones. This being said you can probably find cheaper alternatives to match your headphone signature.




http://www.upscaleaudio.com/amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin/

There's Driver ($50), Gold ($75) and Platinum grade ($80). I understand that the Platinum has the lowest noise and microphonics, but is there a difference in SQ? And is it worth the extra $30?


----------



## jipan

A user here tried the driver grade and it works fine, if my memory correct.
  
 Quote:


xkonfuzed said:


> http://www.upscaleaudio.com/amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin/
> 
> There's Driver ($50), Gold ($75) and Platinum grade ($80). I understand that the Platinum has the lowest noise and microphonics, but is there a difference in SQ? And is it worth the extra $30?


 
  
 @ ElBartoME & mikoss: yes the pictures in your links looks like my tube. I can't find any HP labeled Amperex which similar with my tube. I think my HP tube is in fact a relabeled sovtek.  Thanks for your helps


----------



## isendono

Yes , driver is fine for Aune T1


----------



## hk1388

I've been lurking this thread for a while. I finally got a different tube (Amperex Orange Globe). Sound stage feels bigger than before. Less bass on my DT990s but it feels tighter. Thanks to everyone who reviewed the different tubes.


----------



## mikoss

Nice pictures @hk1388. Glad you're enjoying the OG! Such a great tube. May I also recommend the Voskhod Rocket 6N23P... if you're into the Beyer sound, I think it sounds great for rock. Less refined than the OG, but certainly very musical and raw. The rocket is also super cheap. (around $10 shipped on ebay). Just an unsolicited recommendation


----------



## hk1388

mikoss said:


> Nice pictures @hk1388. Glad you're enjoying the OG! Such a great tube. May I also recommend the Voskhod Rocket 6N23P... if you're into the Beyer sound, I think it sounds great for rock. Less refined than the OG, but certainly very musical and raw. The rocket is also super cheap. (around $10 shipped on ebay). Just an unsolicited recommendation


 
  
 Thanks!
  
 I looked on ebay. Maybe my search skills are bad but I couldn't find any for less than $20. You have a link to them?


----------



## steffinger92

hk1388 said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I looked on ebay. Maybe my search skills are bad but I couldn't find any for less than $20. You have a link to them?


 
 http://www.ebay.de/itm/6N23P-russ-Zweifachtriode-in-Spanngitterbauweise-Made-in-UdSSR-/251576239291?pt=Röhren&hash=item3a931cc4bb
  
 Here's one. With shipping to the US 10$ (7,50€).  In used condition but the guy says tested 100%/95%.
 A bit funny but this offer isn't listed on ebay.com even if you select location worldwide.


----------



## mikoss

A question for maybe @ElBartoME or @Salvatore or @CoiL or anyone else who might know...
  
 Has anyone tried upgrading the op-amps inside of this thing? Would it make much a difference in sound quality?
  
 I have never swapped op-amps before, but I heard they are cheap to buy and sometimes easy to swap.
  
 As I understand, there are separate op amps; one for the amp (NE5532) and one for the dac (OPA2134)?
  
  
 Just asking for information, and maybe possibly to play around. Thanks.


----------



## MrEleventy

I've never messed with SMDs so I don't know the difficulty level of it but, it looks like there's enough room to install a socket so you can hot swap opamps for the dac at least. I don't think there's enough clearance to do the same on the headphone amp board itself. Looks like it'll be a tight fit.

PIC


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Yes you would have to install a socket like MrEleventy suggested in order to install/roll opamps


----------



## teb1013

Yes, I have used the driver grade for the past year. It works perfectly for the tube buffer application of the Aune T1. I wouldn't spend the extra for gold or platinum.


----------



## jipan

RTC labeled Amperex PCC189 is good! Extended but smooth and relaxed treble, smooth vocals (not raw like Phillips PCC88) and laid back presentation. Vocals not as up-front and raw as Phillips PCC88, RTC PCC189 more laid-back. Details is good, worse than Phillips PCC88 but better than HP labeled Sovtek. Less holographic than Phillips PCC88 but again, better than Sovtek. This tube is like middle-ground between Sovtek and Phillips PCC88.


----------



## desmond0123

i have a question,can i use 6n1p tube with the aune t1? cause i have a 6n1p tube when i put it in and play music,there is a cracking sound so i am wondering what is the problem?


----------



## Koolpep

desmond0123 said:


> i have a question,can i use 6n1p tube with the aune t1? cause i have a 6n1p tube when i put it in and play music,there is a cracking sound so i am wondering what is the problem?


 
  
 Yes you can. But sometimes tubes are bad, broken, kaputt. 
  
 unofficial:

 Q: What types of tubes will work with the Aune T1?
*A: 6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 6N27P, 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, **E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, CV5358, M3624*


----------



## desmond0123

koolpep said:


> Yes you can. But sometimes tubes are bad, broken, kaputt.
> 
> unofficial:
> 
> ...


 
 ok thanks.but when i ask the seller of the tube,he say that it is because the circuit has not been properly biased thats why there is that cracking sound.And the tube that i bought is a rocket 6n1p ix74 tube so is the problem with the tube or the circuit?


----------



## rhubarb9999

I just treated myself to an *Amperex gold pin 7308.  Can't wait.*


----------



## ElBartoME

mikoss said:


> A question for maybe @ElBartoME or @Salvatore or @CoiL or anyone else who might know...
> 
> Has anyone tried upgrading the op-amps inside of this thing? Would it make much a difference in sound quality?
> 
> ...


 
  
 Theoretically it should be possible if the pinout is the same. Of course you have to check the datasheets. Soldering a socket is quite tricky because you don't have any holes for them.
 I personally don't think it will be worth it.
  
 BTW, i bought two RTC E188CC. Can't wait.


----------



## reiserFS

Just got my Aune T1 MKII in, looking nice so far. Any tubes in the the price range of 30-40 euros that are a definite "must have"?
  
 Edit: Disregard that, doesn't turn on, there seems to be a loose screw in the AC adapter.


----------



## MrEleventy

reiserfs said:


> Just got my Aune T1 MKII in, looking nice so far. Any tubes in the the price range of 30-40 euros that are a definite "must have"?
> 
> Edit: Disregard that, doesn't turn on, there seems to be a loose screw in the AC adapter.


Did you leave it on? When I first got my Aune T1, I thought it was broken too but it turns out that it took a little bit of time to warm up. After the initial min or 2, the LED light under the tube kicked on and it showed up in Windows. Now, it kicks on in under 5 seconds but that initial start up had me worried. GL tho.


----------



## reiserFS

mreleventy said:


> Did you leave it on? When I first got my Aune T1, I thought it was broken too but it turns out that it took a little bit of time to warm up. After the initial min or 2, the LED light under the tube kicked on and it showed up in Windows. Now, it kicks on in under 5 seconds but that initial start up had me worried. GL tho.


 
 Well, the problem is that the tube itself isn't even heating up, so I guess either broken unit or broken AC adapter (probably the later.)
  
 Edit: I'm pretty sure the unit that I received is a DOA one. No lights, no heater, nothing. Also, the ac cords are sticky as hell for some reason.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

My T1 Aune is ridiculously hot to the touch! 105F to be more precise. By slipping a BBQ thermometer in the headphone jack, temps go to 145F! That does not look normal to me.
  
 For the record, I'm using an Amperex Orange Globe tube.
  
 Also, I'm now having some audio issues where after a while, my DAC develops a nasal tone and produces static. It happens suddenly. The only remedy I have found is to turn off the DAC and turn it back on 5 secs later. I'm OK for another session of 20-60 min before the problem reoccurs. It's seemingly random.
  
 The DAC is on a wooden shelf not surrounded by any electronics or heat sources. I've ordered another tube just in case the problem is tube-related.
  
 Now, assuming my unit is defective, how do I go about getting it repaired/replaced?


----------



## reiserFS

I bought my Aune from Audiophonics in France, time to see how they handle customer service.


----------



## xkonfuzed

reiserfs said:


> Well, the problem is that the tube itself isn't even heating up, so I guess either broken unit or broken AC adapter (probably the later.)
> 
> Edit: I'm pretty sure the unit that I received is a DOA one. No lights, no heater, nothing. Also, the ac cords are sticky as hell for some reason.


 
 I had a similar problem when i got my T1 a long while back. The power brick they gave me didn't really work. I contacted them on their email, sales@auneaudio.com , messaged them a couple of times and they didn't reply back. Then i sent a message with caps lock on and i was really mad at the time, then they replied within an hour 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 It costs $10 for one adapter, I paid $20 for two just in case one goes wrong in the future. 
  
 Hope you get this issue fixed, i know how annoying it can be.


----------



## Besdomny

strat-mangler said:


> My T1 Aune is ridiculously hot to the touch! 105F to be more precise.
> (...) I've ordered another tube just in case the problem is tube-related.
> 
> Now, assuming my unit is defective, how do I go about getting it repaired/replaced?


 
  
 Wow, that is hot. Mine is getting mildly warm after 5 hours of playing. Nothing near hot. I wouldn't use it at the moment and wait what happens with another tube.
 I use a EH 6922 Gold at the moment.
  
 Regarding a replacement: Depends on where you bought it. I'd write to the shop where I bought it first. If it's second hand you might have a problem. Anyway, like you suggested, I'd try another tube first and look what happens.
  
 Good luck!


----------



## reiserFS

xkonfuzed said:


> I had a similar problem when i got my T1 a long while back. The power brick they gave me didn't really work. I contacted them on their email, sales@auneaudio.com , messaged them a couple of times and they didn't reply back. Then i sent a message with caps lock on and i was really mad at the time, then they replied within an hour
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Having to pay for the power supply? I opened a PayPal case right away as I've bought from Audiophonics and not directly from Aune.


----------



## teb1013

strat-mangler said:


> My T1 Aune is ridiculously hot to the touch! 105F to be more precise. By slipping a BBQ thermometer in the headphone jack, temps go to 145F! That does not look normal to me.
> 
> For the record, I'm using an Amperex Orange Globe tube.
> 
> ...




Definitely a problem. Mine remains cool (I have it sitting on a bit of cardboard, no problem) even the tube is not super hot to the touch. I would suggest contacting the place you bought this from and arranging a swap. You might do a search of this thread, I recall a number of people who got replacements from Aune without much trouble.


----------



## penmarker

Strat, can you change the tube with another tube and see whether the problem persists? Tube amps are supposed to run hot (_a friend had his daughter burn her hands when she touched the chassis_), but the T1 isn't a tube amp, it's a tube buffered amp. It shouldn't run that hot.


----------



## rids57

Mine runs pretty hot, though not that hot that I can't leave my fingers on the surface. The jack plug gets quite toasty too but not had any audio problems and just assumed it was normal.


----------



## mikoss

Yeah, I agree... Mine has always ran hot as well. I don't think 40C would be a problem, but over 50C is probably a bit high... (104f and 122f respectively). The reviews I had read mentioned that the T1 runs warm, and I've just accepted that to be normal because of the compact size. 

Also, I don't think it's a good idea to touch the tube while it's warm, and/or when it's cold. I heard oil on our hands can affect the glass on the tube, once it heats up. (I am not a tube expert, just what I've read).


----------



## MrEleventy

Hmm, mine doesn't run that hot. I can rest my palm on the unit for hours. I'll get tired before I get hurt. the tube, I can hold for 5 seconds before it gets too hot.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Only found one other person who experienced the same issue, the only difference being that my listening session lasts longer before the problem appears.
  


> Unfortunately, i am having terribly bad luck at buying tubes or the ones I have selected are not fully compatible. Philips Miniwatt ECC85 by Mullard 1957 NOS
> Vintage Fisher Mullard 6AQ8 ECC85
> NOS NIB GE (made by MULLARD) 6AQ8 ECC85 Vacuum Tube Tv-7
> But all 3 are giving me the same issue. They seemingly work great for about 5 or so minutes and then after that everything becomes muddy/distorted.


 
  
 I sent him a PM to see if he could tell me what happened in his case since that msg was posted in January. We'll see if he replies...
  
 In the meantime, wondering if the people who have units that are cool to the touch could post which tube they are using, please?


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Just got a reply back.
  


> What this turned out to be was the tubes I was purchasing were NOS tubes. These tubes, while old (1960s, etc), were new and needed to be burnt in. After powering on the Aune with one of these "new" tubes and letting it burn in the tube for period of 48 hours everything would sound great. I hope this helps!


 
  
 What's puzzling is that my tube's been working great for 10 months and only now is this issue popping up.
  
 I've ordered a new tube which I'll get next week. Hopefully, the issue is as simple as replacing the tube!


----------



## MrEleventy

FWIW, The tubes that I use are in my profile.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Maybe the fact that you're using a tube that dissipates 2.7 watts whereas mine is 3 watts contributes to the issues that I'm having? If it's heat-related, it could factor in.
  
 Anyway, I doubt that I'll get any idea on that until the next weekend when I get the new tube.
  
 In the meantime, if anybody else can list their tubes in their cold-to-the-touch T1 units, that'd be appreciated.


----------



## reiserFS

Haven't heard back from Audiophonics yet regarding my dead T1 MKII (probably due to the weekend), but will keep you guys posted.


----------



## SpiderNhan

I use a 1969 Holland Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 and the my T1 feels slightly warm while the tube is too hot to touch for more than a second or two. I get a similar effect from the EH6922, but I rarely use that tube.


----------



## rwpritchett

Right now I'm using a '62 Amperex Bugle Boy 6DJ8. The top isn't too hot, but I can only touch the tube near the filaments for about 2 seconds before I have to pull away.


----------



## xkonfuzed

Guys, stop touching the tubes. They can get permanently damaged that way..


----------



## jipan

Really??? :O Why is that? Sorry, I'm noob about tubes....



xkonfuzed said:


> Guys, stop touching the tubes. They can get permanently damaged that way..



 



And guys, are you seriously telling me you guys touch the glowing tube? Is that even safe? You guys are brave! LOL
I myself wait for several minutes after powering off before touching the tube


----------



## xkonfuzed

jipan said:


> Really??? :O Why is that? Sorry, I'm noob about tubes....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Quoted from UpScaleAudio: 
  
_"Repeatedly tapping on a tube's glass can cause a perfectly good tube to become too microphonic for use._

_*ALL tubes are microphonic to a greater or lesser degree.* Whether or not that microphonics is audible will depend more on the tube's function in the product, rather than the microphony of the tube itself. In some positions, you will never hear anything, even with the worst tube. In other positions you will hear something even with the best tubes. At that point you make a judgement call: does this level of microphony interfere with my listening enjoyment?_

_*Tubes are supposed to make noise when tap you tap on them! If a tube is truly microphonic, and in a position where it is critical, you will know it. It will feedback as you play music and be so objectionable you'll turn it off."*_

 Also, generally speaking, tubes logos are made of ink that will fall off easily. So when you keep touching it (especially when its hot), the logo will go away.


----------



## rwpritchett

Who said they were tapping tubes?


----------



## Strat-Mangler

xkonfuzed said:


> Quoted from UpScaleAudio:
> 
> _"Repeatedly tapping on a tube's glass can cause a perfectly good tube to become too microphonic for use._
> 
> ...


 
  
 Sorry, but that's pretty much all balognea.
  
 I've played guitar for many many years and have owned many tube amps. No tech, roadie, or guitar player wears gloves when changing tubes. It doesn't do anything if you touch the tube either.
  
 That theory comes from electricians who said you shouldn't touch a halogen lightbulb with your bare fingers. Otherwise, you'll leave oils that will burn that part of the bulb quicker which will weaken the light and change its structure. Handling tubes with bare fingers is perfectly fine.
  
 As for microphonics, gently tapping a tube with a pencil is an age-old way of testing this. Though every tube is subject to microphonics, great tubes will test in a way that microphonics are beyond human hearing, which means that they're essentially micrphonics-free... but they can develop microphonic qualities over time.
  
 Nevertheless, I wasn't complaining about the tube being microphonic but rather that the sound becomes distorted after a few minutes. When I test it with another tube, I'll see if the problem is eliminated or not.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I ended up pulling my primary power caps (Nichicon Fine Golds) and putting in Panasonic FWs.  Now my bass is finally back, but those Nichicons have a clearer top end.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

I'd suggest playing with tubes instead. My Amperex Orange Globe provides ample clear bass.


----------



## reiserFS

No reply from Audiophonics.fr yet in regards to my dead T1, will hand over the case to PayPal soon.
  
 Edit: Seems like there's a national holiday in France today.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

strat-mangler said:


> I'd suggest playing with tubes instead. My Amperex Orange Globe provides ample clear bass.


 
  
 Trust me, I have played with lots of tubes and nothing comes close to this Siemens (possible CCa) tube.  I have an Amperex backup..
  
 I was simply letting those know who follow what I posted about caps that it was the power primary caps that killed the bass and these were Nichicon Fine Golds, some of the best caps you can buy ($6-$8 each).  The Nichicon have a slightly more pronounced top end, but lack dramatically in the bottom end compared to the Panasonic FRs


----------



## mikoss

Panasonic FWs? Do you have a data sheet link for these caps, can't seem to find any info.
  
 I went with Panny FR's and the bass was much, much improved over the Nichicon's my T1 came with.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Sorry FW was the Nichicons.
  
 I am talking about Panasonic FRs like these:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Panasonic-3300uF-10V-105-degrees-low-ESR-FR-range-electrolytic-capacitors-5-pack-/350574855197
  
 Except those are 10V and you need 25V


----------



## mikoss

ok excellent, thanks for clearing that up... I used the same caps and the bass sounds great.

Thanks again for the info


----------



## Strat-Mangler

It's times like these that I wish I was great with a soldering iron.


----------



## Goophoba

Hey, brand new here. Posting to ask about the T1 mk1. Just got one on amazon and I am not sure if it is behaving normal. Never had a amp before let alone a tube amp. When I first plugged it in it sounded like a wavy jitterin soft crackle (the crackle wasn't sharp) to the sound. Kinda like a wavy radio sound idk. Now this was without any audio coming from the computer. As soon as I started a song I noticed the PC audio was a lower volume than the horrible sounds the T1 was producing on its own, unusable chopped up and edgy/digitalish/pixelated. I used a iPad to test the headphone amp and that works great. Nice, loud, and clear. 1/3rd volume is more than I can handle with some headphones. Great! Getting somewhere.
  
 Now I switched back to the DAC/tube and this waving jitter crack sound was changing every few minutes taking on a new characteristic then going away completely just to come back anew a moment later. Zero PC audio, it was plugged in but no software was running. 
  
 I tried messing with all the setting in windows I could find, turning it off and on pulling and replacing the tube, letting it warm up, different headphones etc. All to no avail. The first few time I turned it on I got unrecognized by windows 1/2 the time. When it did connect 24 bit sample rates didn't work, just 16. Then after a bit it connected a bit more steady and now the last few times 24 bit works. Ok then, getting father. Oh and hey, the other sound devices others talk about when it's plugged in are starting to show up in the settings! But it still sounds like my music went through a blender then someone tried scotch taping it together.
  
 Fine... Let's lets try something stupid, it clearly won't help but I am desperate. I tried letting the T1 start without a tube, it clicked on the tubelight (no tube), and then I restarted with the tube in place. It works... wait no.. no its working. What? Well ok then, great.   But there is a issue. It sounds like there is clipping if the windows audio is over 17 of 100. At 17 I have to crank the T1 to max inorder to get it to a resonable volume to listen to and even then it is low and not as neat/clean (i am not sure how to describe it just not as good/also it's less punchy in the lows).
  
 I'm out of ideas. I got a gold lion tube coming in 2 days but I am this close to returning it anyways. I am not sure if the new tube will help. It feels like it has multiple issues.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

strat-mangler said:


> It's times like these that I wish I was great with a soldering iron.


 
  
 You mean so you can make stuff like this?  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  

  


goophoba said:


> Hey, brand new here. Posting to ask about the T1 mk1. Just got one on amazon and I am not sure if it is behaving normal. Never had a amp before let alone a tube amp. When I first plugged it in it sounded like a wavy jitterin soft crackle (the crackle wasn't sharp) to the sound. Kinda like a wavy radio sound idk. Now this was without any audio coming from the computer. As soon as I started a song I noticed the PC audio was a lower volume than the horrible sounds the T1 was producing on its own, unusable chopped up and edgy/digitalish/pixelated. I used a iPad to test the headphone amp and that works great. Nice, loud, and clear. 1/3rd volume is more than I can handle with some headphones. Great! Getting somewhere.
> 
> Now I switched back to the DAC/tube and this waving jitter crack sound was changing every few minutes taking on a new characteristic then going away completely just to come back anew a moment later. Zero PC audio, it was plugged in but no software was running.
> 
> ...


 
  
 The sound you are describing sounds like when the tube is not completely secured in the socket.  I'm not saying to push really hard on it, but make sure you can't push it down any further.  However if you just bought, return it.  If you had owned it for a while and it was outside the scope of returning to Amazon I would go into more depth than the tube, but you can just swap yours.


----------



## mikoss

Hey Goo

Sorry to hear about your trouble with your unit. 

Did you try adjusting the gain dip stitches on the bottom? Try all three settings and see if either reacts currently.

Did you try another computer... If possible? I have experienced usb troubles on my X1 with an older computer I have that sound similar, depending on which usb port I'm using.

Anything else plugged into the usb ports on the computer? Maybe try swapping ports and unplugging the other devices, if possible.

Power cycling my X1 would fix the issues I had as well, but it was frustrating hearing distortion. 

Do you think perhaps the tube is causing the issues? Maybe it's worthwhile waiting on the new tube...

Good luck.


----------



## Goophoba

ncsuzoso said:


> The sound you are describing sounds like when the tube is not completely secured in the socket.  I'm not saying to push really hard on it, but make sure you can't push it down any further.  However if you just bought, return it.  If you had owned it for a while and it was outside the scope of returning to Amazon I would go into more depth than the tube, but you can just swap yours.


 
  
  
 Re seated it. It's clean but the volume is still quite low. Max just brings it to my listening level, which isn't high. Think I'll return it thanks.
  
 Would a new tube boost the volume if I waited for the gold lion?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

A tube will not boost the volume, this is a tube buffered circuit; basically the tube is your equalizer.
  
 Like mentioned above, check your gain switches on the bottom of the unit.
  
 If you are interested in buying NOS Tubes, I have a RCA made Amperex tube from the 60's, tested higher than NOS on the Hickok.


----------



## Goophoba

Thanks guys, you've been awesome. I really appreciate the advice and help.
  
 After a listening session I still have clipping on the low end even at 12 of 100 volume but it does sound different then the on board sound with a flat eq. I don't know if I like it better because I can't really hear much yet, too low.
  
 Quote:


mikoss said:


> Did you try adjusting the gain dip stitches on the bottom? Try all three settings and see if either reacts currently.


 
  
 Just did, seems my DIP switches are in upside-down. Been listing to 16 db gain this whole time. Played with the others just to be sure and it just gets quieter on the setting the book says is 16 db. Or the book diagram is wrong as the wording seems to match what is happening. Anyways it's all the way up.
  


mikoss said:


> Did you try another computer... If possible? I have experienced usb troubles on my X1 with an older computer I have that sound similar, depending on which usb port I'm using.
> 
> Anything else plugged into the usb ports on the computer? Maybe try swapping ports and unplugging the other devices, if possible.


 
 Not yet. I'll try another PC.
  
 But I have tried 2 usb 2.0 and one usb 3.0 (higher amp output? digital i know but im grasping here). All the same.
  


mikoss said:


> Power cycling my X1 would fix the issues I had as well, but it was frustrating hearing distortion.
> 
> Do you think perhaps the tube is causing the issues? Maybe it's worthwhile waiting on the new tube...


  

 Power cycled so many times, seemed to help in the fist hour but no gains since.
  
 Idk, guess we will see.


----------



## Goophoba

ncsuzoso said:


> If you are interested in buying NOS Tubes, I have a RCA made Amperex tube from the 60's, tested higher than NOS on the Hickok.


 
 If I get it working I may take you up on that.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

goophoba said:


> Hey, brand new here. Posting to ask about the T1 mk1. Just got one on amazon and I am not sure if it is behaving normal. Never had a amp before let alone a tube amp. When I first plugged it in it sounded like a wavy jitterin soft crackle (the crackle wasn't sharp) to the sound. Kinda like a wavy radio sound idk. Now this was without any audio coming from the computer. As soon as I started a song I noticed the PC audio was a lower volume than the horrible sounds the T1 was producing on its own, unusable chopped up and edgy/digitalish/pixelated. I used a iPad to test the headphone amp and that works great. Nice, loud, and clear. 1/3rd volume is more than I can handle with some headphones. Great! Getting somewhere.
> 
> Now I switched back to the DAC/tube and this waving jitter crack sound was changing every few minutes taking on a new characteristic then going away completely just to come back anew a moment later. Zero PC audio, it was plugged in but no software was running.
> 
> ...


 
  
 This is the *exact* same issue that I have.
  
 The cause for it is electromagnetic interference from your PC. You'll notice that the sound gets extremely crazy when your hard drive is accessed and/or when you scroll through a webpage.
  
 It took me weeks to find a possible solution and trust me when I say that I know more about this problem than anybody else, at this point. lol!
  
 Two other people reported that this solved the issue entirely ; a USB isolator. It purifies the signal and manages to separate the noise you're referring to from the music you're trying to play.
  
 Here is the exact USB isolator I've ordered ; it's made by Olimex. https://www.olimex.com/Products/USB-Modules/USB-ISO/
  
 By the way, here are some things that were suggested to me which didn't fix the issue ;
  
 - Different shielded USB cable.
 - Testing all USB ports.
 - Trying a USB controller card (PCI).
 - Trying a USB cable with a ferrite on each end.
 - Trying a USB cable with no ground or power pin.
 - And many more...
  
 And here are the threads from other users who experienced the same issue.

http://www.head-fi.org/t/645446/usb-isolator-and-pc-noise
http://www.hifivision.com/audio-video-cables/24439-usb-isolation-between-computer-dac.html
http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-51572.html

 I've ordered it through DigiKey and will hope that nips it in the bud once and for all. It seems to be way overkill for my usage but I couldn't find any real-world experiences from users having tried the aforementioned USB isolator, so I ordered one that I could verify has worked for other end-users like me.
  
 Lastly, here is my thread about this topic ; http://www.overclock.net/t/1497894/emi-driving-me-nuts-no-sound-card-using-usb-help
  
 I will be taking possession of the Olimex USB isolator this weekend, but I'm 99% sure it will fix the issue. It can be ordered from many different places, including Amazon. I'll be sure to let you know the outcome.


----------



## Goophoba

strat-mangler said:


> This is the *exact* same issue that I have.
> 
> The cause for it is electromagnetic interference from your PC. You'll notice that the sound gets extremely crazy when your hard drive is accessed and/or when you scroll through a webpage.
> 
> ...


 
 Grounding got me thinking. I took the power supply off the surge protector with all the other gear and moved it to a different plug. Same circuit in the house but now off the surge protector. 
  
 Ta da!
  
 Glorious sound. Totally different than an hour ago. I still need to do a sound test to see what I like better. On board or the T1 (the onboard is supposed to be dam good). Anyways volume is what I expected but..., yes there is a but, there is still a little clipping in the low end. I am going over some non bass heavy tracks and they are great, to a point. The bass...
  
 In one song I have is this long unending bass tone (well multiple notes but you get the idea) waving around to make this soundscape. It is nice on the onboard, It sounds like one long undulating sound.  But on the T1 the sound feels broken up into chunks. There clearly is clip, it's nothing huge but it is distinctly there if you listen for it.
  
 Any ideas anyone?


----------



## Strat-Mangler

goophoba said:


> Grounding got me thinking. I took the power supply off the surge protector with all the other gear and moved it to a different plug. Same circuit in the house but now off the surge protector.
> 
> Ta da!
> 
> ...


 
  
 I assumed you had checked the ground first. Glad it's as simple as that, for you. My ground was perfect and yet the problem persists. The USB isolator should take care of this, but I'll only know for sure on the weekend.
  
 I'm assuming you're using the EH tube that came with the Aune T1? If so, I'd suggest switching it with a better tube as it will yield a better sound, no doubt.
  
 If you're using headphones, I'd suggest changing the switches so that the output isn't boosted. That could also contribute to the clipping you describe.


----------



## mikoss

Nice work guys! Ground noise can be such a pain.

Just a question Goo... When you say onboard are you talking soundcard? I found ALC889 does sound alright, but the bass was loose for my taste. I was also surprised that most people dismiss soundcards as noisy/low quality/etc. Older ones for sure, but newer ones can sound ok.


----------



## reiserFS

I highly advise to not buy from Audiophonics.fr. They might ship fast, but when it comes down to RMA they simply won't answer. Handing the case over to PayPal.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

mikoss, I had good experiences with soundcards from Auzentech which sounded good, but the company folded and most of their designs were taken from Creative Labs. Having the ability to switch chips to get different sounds was interesting, though.
  
 Good to know, resierFS. Thanks for the update and good luck getting the matter resolved. Quick question, though ; did you try calling them? My experience has taught me that oftentimes, companies are a lot more responsive to phone calls.


----------



## cgib

I just got my T1 MK2 this weekend and so far it sounds great! Quick question though, I'm running speakers and headphones through it and I just wanted to know if how I'm switching between them is ok: I have the speakers connected to the Audio Out ports on the back of the T1 all the time. Then when I switch to headphones, I turn the speakers off and simply plug my headphones into the T1 and turn up the volume on the T1 (it's always at the minimum position when listening to speakers - I adjust the volume on the speakers). 
  
 I think I read somewhere that running speakers and headphones from the T1 at the same time is not a good idea, but if the speakers are turned off when my headphones are plugged in, is that ok? Or should I be unplugging the speakers each time?
  
 Thanks!


----------



## diaBoliQu3

cgib said:


> I just got my T1 MK2 this weekend and so far it sounds great! Quick question though, I'm running speakers and headphones through it and I just wanted to know if how I'm switching between them is ok: I have the speakers connected to the Audio Out ports on the back of the T1 all the time. Then when I switch to headphones, I turn the speakers off and simply plug my headphones into the T1 and turn up the volume on the T1 (it's always at the minimum position when listening to speakers - I adjust the volume on the speakers).
> 
> I think I read somewhere that running speakers and headphones from the T1 at the same time is not a good idea, but if the speakers are turned off when my headphones are plugged in, is that ok? Or should I be unplugging the speakers each time?
> 
> Thanks!


 

 May I know why it's not a good idea? I'd been doing that for a long time and never run into a problem. Yep, I just turn off speaker and change to headphone and adjust volume.


----------



## cgib

diaboliqu3 said:


> May I know why it's not a good idea? I'd been doing that for a long time and never run into a problem. Yep, I just turn off speaker and change to headphone and adjust volume.


 
 I can't remember where I read that, but I'll try to find the source tonight after work. I believe it had something to do with the T1 powering two sources from both outputs at the same time, but that shouldn't come into play if the speakers are turned off. 
  
 Anyway, I'm completely new to this so I just wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything that can damage my system!


----------



## diaBoliQu3

cgib said:


> I can't remember where I read that, but I'll try to find the source tonight after work. I believe it had something to do with the T1 powering two sources from both outputs at the same time, but that shouldn't come into play if the speakers are turned off.
> 
> Anyway, I'm completely new to this so I just wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything that can damage my system!


 
 Hmmm... But the speaker is turned off right? Anyway, if you feel insecure then you can remove the RCA cable and re-insert them when needed.


----------



## cgib

diaboliqu3 said:


> Hmmm... But the speaker is turned off right? Anyway, if you feel insecure then you can remove the RCA cable and re-insert them when needed.


 
 Nah, I'm not too worried about it, it was just something that I remembered reading a while back. If that's what you do and you haven't run into any problems then that should be fine. I do turn the speakers off and logically this seems like it would be enough to eliminate any potential damage from running both sources at once, if that type of damage is even possible. Thanks for your help!


----------



## Goophoba

strat-mangler said:


> I assumed you had checked the ground first.


 
 Actually the T1 power supply I have has no ground. Once I thought about grounding I just wanted to get the T1 away from the air conditioner. Motors are noisy on the line and a air conditioner seemed the ticket to screw with things. I figured the power supply would have had the proper conditioning hardware in it due to the apparent build quality but I suppose it wasn't good enough (surprising due to the weight of the thing). Once it was on the other side of the surge hardware things were hunky dory. Odd, but it worked.
  


mikoss said:


> Just a question Goo... When you say onboard are you talking soundcard? I found ALC889 does sound alright, but the bass was loose for my taste. I was also surprised that most people dismiss soundcards as noisy/low quality/etc. Older ones for sure, but newer ones can sound ok.


 
 Well that was a good guess mikoss, that's the one. Mines in a Asus p8p67-d. I like it quite a lot. The built in headphone amp has been great so far, have to put it at 50-60 to get to a good level with dt 990s but that still leaves some headroom. Bass to me is good too. But then again it may be a case of ignorance is bliss. I had mentioned in my first post that the T1 is my first amp; tube, dac, or otherwise. I had a Gold Lion in the T1 and had a good long session with my ath-m50s and dt 990s 250ohm. I pulled the gain in down to 10 (i think the number was) as well.
  
 It was nice, definitely and clearly better, but when compared to the onboard it wasn't $200+ better. Headphones seems to have a much bigger effect/difference to $ ratio with what I own so far. $200 in headphones seems to go a lot farther than $200 in a amp/dac. My headphone exploration has been limited so far (whenever I get around to affording to pick up something kinda deal). I'm always on the lookout for deals where the sound is better than the price tag would make you think.
  
 Anyways, I figure once I have a really nice pair an amp and dac will suddenly be the cheap way to boost the quality even further. When the time comes I think I'll go with a Schiit Vali/Modi stack. I like the reviews and more than anything what the Schiit guys are all about, if it turns out well they may have quite the loyal customer. Anyone know what's the better inputr? USB or optical? 
  
 The T1 was cool despite it's issues but it still got sent back to be invested in a new pair of headphones. What they will be is up in the air. Any ideas? I do lean towards phones with good bass.


----------



## rhubarb9999

There is no issue with this.  I leave my headphones plugged in and also run the audio output to a receiver that is powering my desk speakers.  All I do is turn up whichever I want to listen to.


----------



## stjj89

I've had a great time with my Aune T1, but I finally decided to upgrade to some higher-end gear. I have my Aune T1 and three used NOS tubes that I used with them up for sale here and here. Do check it out if you're interested!


----------



## wgkwgk

stjj89 said:


> I've had a great time with my Aune T1, but I finally decided to upgrade to some higher-end gear. I have my Aune T1 and three used NOS tubes that I used with them up for sale here and here. Do check it out if you're interested!


 

 Just out of curiosity, what are you upgrading to?


----------



## stjj89

wgkwgk said:


> Just out of curiosity, what are you upgrading to?


 
  
 I just got me an ODAC + Lyr (with '74 Voskhod Rocket Logos) for my HE-560. I got an ODAC since I didn't want to deal with tube rolling at both the DAC and amp stage (finding the perfect synergy would be hard) and the Lyr for more power to bring out the most in these orthos. I just did a side-by-side comparison of the ODAC vs Aune T1 DAC (with my Amperex 7308) and Lyr vs Aune T1 Amp and it really wasn't that easy to pick out the differences. The differences were far more subtle between the DACs (couldn't hear the difference on classic rock tracks but separation and bass extension was better with the ODAC on EDM tracks; the Aune T1 DAC was smoother but slightly less detailed), and slightly more obvious with the Amps (Aune T1 had more pronounce, sibilant highs, slightly less separation, and less textured bass).
  
 The Aune T1 is definitely amazing value. You experience diminishing returns upgrading from it, but such is the nature of this hobby


----------



## reiserFS

So my T1 MKII is on it's way to France. Hopefully I'll have a working unit by the end of next week.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Care to elaborate on what happened, reiserFS?


----------



## wgkwgk

stjj89 said:


> I just got me an ODAC + Lyr (with '74 Voskhod Rocket Logos) for my HE-560. I got an ODAC since I didn't want to deal with tube rolling at both the DAC and amp stage (finding the perfect synergy would be hard) and the Lyr for more power to bring out the most in these orthos. I just did a side-by-side comparison of the ODAC vs Aune T1 DAC (with my Amperex 7308) and Lyr vs Aune T1 Amp and it really wasn't that easy to pick out the differences. The differences were far more subtle between the DACs (couldn't hear the difference on classic rock tracks but separation and bass extension was better with the ODAC on EDM tracks; the Aune T1 DAC was smoother but slightly less detailed), and slightly more obvious with the Amps (Aune T1 had more pronounce, sibilant highs, slightly less separation, and less textured bass).
> 
> The Aune T1 is definitely amazing value. You experience diminishing returns upgrading from it, but such is the nature of this hobby


 

 Thanks for the reply.  Regarding the Aune T1 amp, I use an Asgard 2.  Much better than T1's amp, IMHO.


----------



## mikoss

Thanks very much for the impressions and comparison stjj89.
  
 I would really love to hear a Lyr up against the T1 with upgraded caps... the sound quality difference from stock to elna silmic ii's was night and day for me. (my caps now have over 100 hours and they're still actually opening up and revealing more detail with more burn in... astounding).
  
 I plan on hooking up my HE-500s next week, using the T1's DAC and an Emotiva Mini-x amp. Tried listening to them and nothing I had could properly drive them, so I went with the cheap speaker amp for now. I've also been rolling the OG (GAC date code with a halo getter) and falling more in love with this tube... hopefully it sounds killer with HE-500s. Right now, the T1 is driving my HD-650s beautifully.
  
 Thanks to everyone else posting in the last while, good reads.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

It'd be nice to have the T1's caps upgraded but I don't know anybody who could do the modification.
  
 Sure wish there'd be a way...


----------



## reiserFS

strat-mangler said:


> Care to elaborate on what happened, reiserFS?


 
 DOA, but probably just a dead power brick though.
  
 Anyone else using the MKII here or will I be the first one?


----------



## MrEleventy

I think koolpep is the only other that I know of.


----------



## Hi-fried

Hey all im new to the forum but have been lurking for quite some time! I recently took the plunge and bought some hifiman he-400's with the aune t1 and the 6922 tube. I do have the mk2 version and it is working beautifully, i think? Loving this set up! Thanks for all the great info here!


----------



## cgib

reiserfs said:


> DOA, but probably just a dead power brick though.
> 
> Anyone else using the MKII here or will I be the first one?


 
 I have the MK2 as well! I love it so far


----------



## mikoss

hi-fried said:


> Hey all im new to the forum but have been lurking for quite some time! I recently took the plunge and bought some hifiman he-400's with the aune t1 and the 6922 tube. I do have the mk2 version and it is working beautifully, i think? Loving this set up! Thanks for all the great info here!


 
  
 Hey Hi-fried, glad you're enjoying your setup! Just wanted to mention that the impedance of the HE-400s is pretty low (35 ohms or so) which probably means that you could probably achieve improvement in your sound if you used the T1 with a separate amp. The T1's output impedance is 10 ohms, which makes it hard to "fully/properly drive" headphones lower than around 80 ohms impedance to their full potential. (The "high" output impedance of the T1 will actually cause the headphone frequency response to skew, so to speak.) The T1's amp will probably sound loud enough, but I'm just putting it out there to maybe try using the T1's DAC with an amp that has lower output impedance. (4 ohms or less would probably be the ballpark).
  
 Just to give you an idea, when I plug my HE-500s into the T1's amp, the bass loses its punch, the mids sound mushy, and the highs are extremely rolled off. (It's much more noticeable after you hear what the headphones can actually sound like with an amp better suited to their impedance  Maybe you already use another amp?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Can somebody show us inside shots of the MKII to see what exactly was changed (along with any outside changes).
  
 These pictures show as little as possible, I want to see the caps on the bottom of both pictures and the DAC + OpAmps where applicable.


----------



## Hi-fried

Thanks for the info mikoss, i had no idea that the t1 would not be able to push these cans. I am not currently using a different amp but may start looking.


----------



## JoshuaA

mikoss, never thought of that. So the AuneT1 will skew HD598's?


----------



## chowmein83

To anybody that's wondering whether their low-impedance headphones will sound bad out of the T1, I personally am using a T1 with Amperex OG's driving a Sennheiser HD598 and I honestly can't hear any noticeable defects in the sound signature (and yes, I have compared it to something with much lower output impedance - the FiiO E17). It may be that the T1 won't drive something like my 598's to their full potential, but IMO unless you get something that is significantly better than the T1, you won't notice. (Like what Mikoss said about plugging in the HE-500 into the T1.)


----------



## xkonfuzed

The T1 also drives my 12ohm Sony MA900's very well. I'd say that it is an upgrade over the E11.


----------



## mikoss

For sure, I didn't mean to put anyone off enjoying their headphones with the T1. If your music sounds good, enjoy it! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 As for the HD-595's, the ones made in the last couple of years are listed around 50 ohms impedance, and the rule of thumb for damping is around 8 times. Meaning, technically, to get the best response from your headphones, the output impedance of your headphone amp should be at least 8 times lower than your headphones impedance. The nature of the drivers in headphones makes it nearly impossible to have a set impedance value, so they may be 50 ohms impedance at certain/the majority of frequencies. Other frequencies, the impedance changes because of phase shifting and other fun electrical things. (inductance, for example)...
  
 Long story short, for 50 ohm headphones, technically speaking, the ideal pairing would be an amp with an output impedance lower than 50/8 = 6 ohms.
  
 I just felt compelled to bring it up with the planar's especially, because I personally feel that they do sound better with a different amp. Before going to the HD-650s, I used HD-558's with the T1, and I also thought they sounded good. (The 558's are very similar to the HD-598's). My HE's however, I felt differently about.
  
 There are some much better explanations regarding headphone amps and headphone impedance if you google search Headphone & Amp Impedance.


----------



## Koolpep

@mikoss

I yesterday listened to the T1 in comparison to the bottlehead Crack with speedball. 

I used can from 600 Ohm to 32 Ohm and my summit-fi friend and I were deeply impressed with the T1 Mk2

It's black like hell and the sound is truly amazing for the price. We were both quite surprised of how good it was (again, for the money).

While I agree that the rule of thumb is generally true, it might not be true in all cases.

The T1 mk2 drove these cans yesterday:

Beyerdynamic T1, T90, DT880-32, AKG Q701


----------



## mikoss

Thanks for the info Koolpep... Also looking forward to seeing what is inside the mk2. Any idea what kind of caps are in yours?


----------



## Koolpep

mikoss said:


> Thanks for the info Koolpep... Also looking forward to seeing what is inside the mk2. Any idea what kind of caps are in yours?





I will see if I can open it up and take some photos in the next few hours. 

Cheers,
K


----------



## chowmein83

mikoss said:


> For sure, I didn't mean to put anyone off enjoying their headphones with the T1. If your music sounds good, enjoy it!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thanks for the explanation. And I think I also have to mention that it seems to have different effects upon different headphones. For example, I don't hear too much of an effect upon my HD598's, but I do hear more of a difference with my in-ear Klipsch Image X10's (which also are rated at 50 ohm impedance like my 598's!)  - but that may have to do with them being a BA driver type.
  
 And is there really that much of a difference when using a HiFiMan planar? This is troubling because I'm planning on buying the upcoming 400i and driving them with my T1...


----------



## Hi-fried

Im wondering, with my Hifiman HE-400's how should i have the gain switches set on the T1? I currently have them at there lowest setting (thought i saw a review somebody said they thought that sounded best with the HE-400). Out of the box it was set to full on. ill definitely tinker with it myself but wondering what the science is behind it and if one setting is better than another.


----------



## Koolpep

ncsuzoso said:


> Can somebody show us inside shots of the MKII to see what exactly was changed (along with any outside changes).
> 
> These pictures show as little as possible, I want to see the caps on the bottom of both pictures and the DAC + OpAmps where applicable.


 
  
 Here are the insides. I just removed the cover plate and didn't disassemble further.
  
 Cheers,
 K
  

  

  

  

  
  
 Hope this helps!
  
 Cheers,
 K


----------



## MrEleventy

From the pics, I can confirm no changes to the dac chip and amp opamp. Can't read the dac opamp nor the usb receiver. I'm sure they changed the receiver tho since they're claiming async and 24/192.

Thanks for the pics kool.


----------



## Besdomny

Regarding the discussion about the impedance I am also enjoying the HD 598 with my MK2.
 I tried out new tubes for different sound signature, a Tesla E88CC gold pin and a  Voskhod 6N23P/E88CC. So far I've listened to the EH 6922 gold pin, which I like very much. I don't have one of the praised Amperex or Siemens because I do not have that much money to spend at the moment.
  
 I won't go into detail because I read that tubes might open up after 75 to 100 hours resulting in a different sound experience, so here just a few thoughts/first impressions:
 The *Tesla* is a totaly different experience coming from the EH. I think I already read it somewhere here in this discussion, the sound is very much "in your face". Like I said I don't know if or how much the soundstage widens in the future. I paid around 20€.
  
 The *Voskhod* really surprised me, overall a very well balanced listening experience. I decided to keep this one in my MK2 for a longer period of time. The best part, it is not expensive, I paid only 6€.
  
 I also tried a Tungsram ECC85 which does not work well with the Aune T1. I guess I should have read more before deciding to buy it.
  
 Quote:


mreleventy said:


> I'm sure they changed the receiver tho since they're claiming async and 24/192.


 
  
 Hi,
 the MK2 does not support 24/192 but like the MK1 only 24/96!


----------



## MrEleventy

besdomny said:


> Regarding the discussion about the impedance I am also enjoying the HD 598 with my MK2.
> I tried out new tubes for different sound signature, a Tesla E88CC gold pin and a Voskhod 6N23P/E88CC. So far I've listened to the EH 6922 gold pin, which I like very much. I don't have one of the praised Amperex or Siemens because I do not have that much money to spend at the moment.
> 
> I won't go into detail because I read that tubes might open up after 75 to 100 hours resulting in a different sound experience, so here just a few thoughts/first impressions:
> ...


Aune needs to fix their tech spec page then. They list usb support for 24/96 but under Major Features they say 24/192 sound card. lol Thx for the correction. I'm glad that I didn't buy a MK2 just to upgrade then. Paying a premium just to get async usb.... no thanks.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mreleventy said:


> Aune needs to fix their tech spec page then. They list usb support for 24/96 but under Major Features they say 24/192 sound card. lol Thx for the correction. I'm glad that I didn't buy a MK2 just to upgrade then. Paying a premium just to get async usb.... no thanks.


 
  
 Lol they didn't even change any caps compared to the original (I would change whatever they put in there anyway, but just a point).
  
  
 Thank you for the pictures.


----------



## chowmein83

Has anybody had the chance to compare the Mk1 and the Mk2? Does async USB make that big of a difference when it comes to the sound (since it looks like everything else between the Mk1 and the Mk2 is the same)?


----------



## MrEleventy

There should be no difference unless your usb ports are extreme garbage.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

mreleventy said:


> There should be no difference unless your usb ports are extreme garbage.


 

 In my case, direct from USB port vs USB hub (USB port powered, share with keyboard), the winner is direct from USB port. I guess due to the voltage supply it self?


----------



## MrEleventy

diaboliqu3 said:


> In my case, direct from USB port vs USB hub (USB port powered, share with keyboard), the winner is direct from USB port. I guess due to the voltage supply it self?


I think it's mainly because it's on a port by itself. The T1 doesn't use the power portion of the USB port, just the data. It gets it's power from the wall wart. It might be picking up the noise/interference from the keyboard. Other ppl that use a powered usb hub, it's usually the only device on the hub.

E: As an aside; Ppl resort to powered usb hubs to avoid OS shenanigans where most modern OS will try to save as much power as possible by shutting or semi-powering the ports. Win Vista/7/8 and OS X are known culprits.


----------



## diaBoliQu3

mreleventy said:


> I think it's mainly because it's on a port by itself. The T1 doesn't use the power portion of the USB port, just the data. It gets it's power from the wall wart. It might be picking up the noise/interference from the keyboard. Other ppl that use a powered usb hub, it's usually the only device on the hub.
> 
> E: As an aside; Ppl resort to powered usb hubs to avoid OS shenanigans where most modern OS will try to save as much power as possible by shutting or semi-powering the ports. Win Vista/7/8 and OS X are known culprits.


 
 I guess it's the interference since T1 is wall plug power.


----------



## reiserFS

My T1 was just delivered back to Audiophonics in France, so it's time to cross fingers.
  
 Also bought a nice set of tubes from stjj89. Looking forward to finally testing the T1.


----------



## ramaka

Hi Folks:
 I am highly motivated to sell my mildly used Aune T1, thinking of an upgrade and hence selling it. It is in MINT condition and comes with all accessories it came with including the box. Please check my signature for the thread.
  
 Cheers!


----------



## reiserFS

Just got word from Audiophonics that I'll be getting a full refund. I already ordered a new T1 from the UK, should be here tomorrow and hopefully not DOA.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Glad to hear that your situation will soon be completely resolved to your satisfaction, reiserFS.


----------



## manishex

After getting my Amperex A frame orange globe, I noticed that decreasing down to 16 bit, going down to 44.1khz or increasing the gain any higher than 0 made me hear microphonics. I never had this problem with the genalex gold lion, is this because it has gold plated pins? And the normal orange globes show no problems
And its running much hotter!


----------



## penmarker

Disclaimer, I have no idea if that's normal for your tube because I've never tube rolled but having read through this thread cover to cover makes me feel like that's something normal between different tubes.


----------



## chowmein83

manishex said:


> After getting my Amperex A frame orange globe, I noticed that decreasing down to 16 bit, going down to 44.1khz or increasing the gain any higher than 0 made me hear microphonics. I never had this problem with the genalex gold lion, is this because it has gold plated pins? And the normal orange globes show no problems
> And its running much hotter!


 
  
 I am also running A-Frame Orange Globes (dated 1970), but I can't say I hear the distortions you are hearing when I play 16 bit or 44.1 khz music. I can't say anything about the gain because I've left it at zero for quite a while now. I think the tube running hot is normal though - at least, mine does.


----------



## zoneykid

Decided to play around with my tubes again, see if maybe time had fixed my GE ECC85/6AQ8 that I loved so much (it sounded absolutely amazing paired with my DT990s), got a big nope on that, so then I felt like I wanted to try something new so I ordered an ECC189 made in France as recommended earlier in the thread, and also bought another Holland 6AQ8 in the hopes that it'll work; third times the charm, right?
  
 I really wonder what the hell it is that makes 6AQ8's not friendly to the T1, it certainly isn't the heater as the T1 is rated up to 3A...
  


manishex said:


> After getting my Amperex A frame orange globe, I noticed that decreasing down to 16 bit, going down to 44.1khz or increasing the gain any higher than 0 made me hear microphonics. I never had this problem with the genalex gold lion, is this because it has gold plated pins? And the normal orange globes show no problems
> And its running much hotter!


 
  
 I've never had any issues with rolling my tubes, what exactly is the sound that you're hearing? Are you sure it's microphonics?
 As far as the heat, some tubes run hotter than others, it's a fairly normal thing as far as I've heard.


----------



## manishex

It's fine now, i left it overnight and set it back to 0 gain. I think going up to +15 gain fried it a bit


----------



## reiserFS

So my Mac won't see my MK II T1, what do?


----------



## isendono

have you tried powered usb hub?


----------



## reiserFS

isendono said:


> have you tried powered usb hub?


 
 I'm directly trying it from my main usb ports.
  
 Edit: It was the usb cable, tried another one and it works fine now.


----------



## teb1013

chowmein83 said:


> To anybody that's wondering whether their low-impedance headphones will sound bad out of the T1, I personally am using a T1 with Amperex OG's driving a Sennheiser HD598 and I honestly can't hear any noticeable defects in the sound signature (and yes, I have compared it to something with much lower output impedance - the FiiO E17). It may be that the T1 won't drive something like my 598's to their full potential, but IMO unless you get something that is significantly better than the T1, you won't notice. (Like what Mikoss said about plugging in the HE-500 into the T1.)




I use the T1 (vers 1) with HD558 which has the same drivers as the 598, I have never used an external amp and find the sound magnificent (esp w/ Amperex 7308).


----------



## Hi-fried

So in my excited "newb-ness" i ran to the store last night after work and picked up the black keys turn blue on vinyl. I rush home thinking im just going to plug my rega p1 into the t1 and have vinyl goodness running through my he-400's....wrong! I could barely hear the music with the gain and volume maxed out. Upon googling i need a phono preamp....WOW i feel like a newb!


----------



## MrEleventy

You also won't be using the tube plugging in via the rca ins. it bypasses the tube buffer so you'll just be using the ss amp.


----------



## sandab

zoneykid said:


> I really wonder what the hell it is that makes 6AQ8's not friendly to the T1, it certainly isn't the heater as the T1 is rated up to 3A...


 
 The gain is likely too high (57 vs 33 for 6DJ8), resulting in clipping.
 I'm not that well-versed in tubes, but AQ has a Va (anode voltage?) specified at 250V while the DJ is 90V.  Running the AQ at 90V may be sub-par as it only uses part of its full range.
  
 Just guessing.  Here are the data sheets...
  
 http://www.r-type.org/pdfs/ecc85.pdf
 http://www.r-type.org/pdfs/ecc88.pdf


----------



## Hi-fried

That part i was aware of. Thanks for the heads up though mr. Eleventy


----------



## MrEleventy

Ok, just making sure.


----------



## zoneykid

sandab said:


> The gain is likely too high (57 vs 33 for 6DJ8), resulting in clipping.
> I'm not that well-versed in tubes, but AQ has a Va (anode voltage?) specified at 250V while the DJ is 90V.  Running the AQ at 90V may be sub-par as it only uses part of its full range.
> 
> Just guessing.  Here are the data sheets...
> ...


 
  
 That's the thing though, the tube worked perfectly for over half a year, no gain issues or clipping, not only that the issue it has is only with the right channel, the left still sounds great.
  
 Is it just some sort of deterioration of the tube? That's what I don't really understand, if these tubes aren't supposed to work in the T1 then why is it that some of them do work.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Figured out two things over the past few days related to two separate problems.
  
 This info might help some of you guys out, so please read carefully if you experience any of the two issues I experienced. 
  
 1) The sound would suddenly start to become muddy, even nasal-sounding, with a lot of distortion and static. Powering off the T1 and powering it back on would temporarily bypass the issue which would creep back up a few minutes later. For the record, I'm using an Amperex Orange Globe tube which emitting tons of heat. I couldn't leave my fingers on the tube for more than 1-2 secs. On a hunch, I bought a USB fan and pointed it towards the tube. Haven't had the issue since. It confirms what I was thinking following my experiment with seeing temperatures exceeding 140 degrees F with a BBQ thermometer. Not sure if this is considered to be a defect, but there you have it. In case anybody's interested, I bought a Thermaltake USB fan, although any USB fan blowing enough air will cool the tube enough to prevent this problem from occurring in the first place.
  
 2) Secondly, I was hearing tons of electromagnetic interference (EMI) noise from my speakers that was originating from my PC. Every time the hard drive would be accessed or I would be scrolling through a website, I would hear static. There would be a constant squealing as well. Following advice I got from another forum, I bought myself an Olymex USB isolator (https://www.olimex.com/Products/USB-Modules/USB-ISO) that I plugged the wire originating from my PC into before connecting the USB isolator into my T1. Solved my issue instantly and I now have a perfectly quiet noise floor. Absolutely zero noise when no music is played and the music is therefore also clean-sounding, now.
  
 Hopefully, this will help whoever has these issues.


----------



## zoneykid

strat-mangler said:


> Figured out two things over the past few days related to two separate problems.
> 
> This info might help some of you guys out, so please read carefully if you experience any of the two issues I experienced.
> 
> ...


 
  
 I'd like to add on that before buying a USB Isolator, if you have a desktop then I would suggest trying to plug into the USB ports on the back of your computer, often times it's the front USB ports that plug into headers that have all the noise, while the rear ones that are directly on the motherboard I've found to be clean most of the time. This largely varies on your computer though and if you have this issue with a laptop you're going to need that isolator.


----------



## sandab

zoneykid said:


> That's the thing though, the tube worked perfectly for over half a year, no gain issues or clipping, not only that the issue it has is only with the right channel, the left still sounds great.


 
 I bet it degraded for some reason...  Maybe running it at full open (saturation) due to the high gain causes the cathode to wear fast?
  
 There's actually two triodes in it, one used for the L channel and one R.  So it makes sense they'd fail one at a time.


----------



## wilfredchen

any1 here use GE 6AQ8 ECC85 for hip hop, dubstep songs ? I recently purchased that tube to replace Electro Harmonix6922EH. With GE, acoustic and instrument are sure sound warm and decent sound staging but electric beat give me some jittering and kind of distortion. more obvious at high level. 
  
 I used foobar and all equalizers are off. any thoughts ?


----------



## Hi-fried

I dont have that tube but i do have the 6922eh and have listened to rap and i think it sounds amazing! Im using hifiman he-400"s . I also tried foobar and found jriver more to my liking free 30 day trial. Just sayin.


----------



## wilfredchen

ya. 6922eh is ok for overall. i just feel sound signature is abit bright. But Aune T1 is good for tube rolling experience because of its easy to roll tube. i can feel alittle bit of change with each tube. thanks for input,.


----------



## Hi-fried

Ive only had my t1 for not even a week so still really new to this all. Hi res downloads and what not. What was your first roll?


----------



## zoneykid

wilfredchen said:


> any1 here use GE 6AQ8 ECC85 for hip hop, dubstep songs ? I recently purchased that tube to replace Electro Harmonix6922EH. With GE, acoustic and instrument are sure sound warm and decent sound staging but electric beat give me some jittering and kind of distortion. more obvious at high level.
> 
> I used foobar and all equalizers are off. any thoughts ?


 
  
 Is the distortion only for certain frequencies? Try setting your computer volume to 100 and lower the gain on the T1, if the noise is still present, try setting the T1 to maximum volume and gain while setting the computer to lower volume, worth exploring all options at this point.
  
 I had a GE ECC85 that I found to be a perfect match for my DT990s, it worked perfectly for all of 8 or so months before I started getting bass distortion on the right channel.
 Distortion is rather common with 6AQ8/ECC85 tubes and the T1, at this point it seems that getting a compatable tube is a matter of luck, thus why I'm trying to test mine by buying a 3rd 6AQ8 tube in the hopes of finding a good one.


----------



## wilfredchen

zoneykid said:


> Is the distortion only for certain frequencies? Try setting your computer volume to 100 and lower the gain on the T1, if the noise is still present, try setting the T1 to maximum volume and gain while setting the computer to lower volume, worth exploring all options at this point.
> 
> I had a GE ECC85 that I found to be a perfect match for my DT990s, it worked perfectly for all of 8 or so months before I started getting bass distortion on the right channel.
> Distortion is rather common with 6AQ8/ECC85 tubes and the T1, at this point it seems that getting a compatable tube is a matter of luck, thus why I'm trying to test mine by buying a 3rd 6AQ8 tube in the hopes of finding a good one.


 
 yoosh. thats a good idea to try out and i go to extreme. I used Jriver and source volume at 5%. My song is 256 kbps and my HP is AD900x if matter. Distortion is just little at max T1 volume. If source sound put up to 80-90 and lower T1 volume, distortion go crazy. So, what should i say. is it tube defect or just nature ?. Since i am living at singapore, is hard to get quality tube from trusted seller. So try my luck at ebay is only option.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

zoneykid said:


> I'd like to add on that before buying a USB Isolator, if you have a desktop then I would suggest trying to plug into the USB ports on the back of your computer, often times it's the front USB ports that plug into headers that have all the noise, while the rear ones that are directly on the motherboard I've found to be clean most of the time. This largely varies on your computer though and if you have this issue with a laptop you're going to need that isolator.


 
 I've tried everything you could possibly think of. That was one of the first things I tried.
  
 Trust me ; there was no other solution.


----------



## manishex

If anyone is building a pc, try get this motherboard: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4952#ov
 It has a special usb port made solely for usb DAC's at the back to reduce power flucuations. The motherboard itself has nichicon capacitors with an upgradeable OP amp and gain switches.
 I have this myself and feel there is more clarity and vocals are better.
  
 I also roll USB cables, I now have 4 ^_^


----------



## zoneykid

strat-mangler said:


> I've tried everything you could possibly think of. That was one of the first things I tried.
> 
> Trust me ; there was no other solution.


 
  
 I'm sure you've tried all other options, I'm just advising that in most cases there's a cheaper and simpler solution than a USB isolator; In some cases like yours there is no other options.


----------



## moriez

reiserfs said:


> I highly advise to not buy from Audiophonics.fr. They might ship fast, but when it comes down to RMA they simply won't answer. Handing the case over to PayPal.


 
  
 Ouch. Seems they can redeem themselves. I ordered an MK2 there an hour ago eventhough my first experience was similar to yours. Quite sloppy service..


----------



## reiserFS

moriez said:


> Ouch. Seems they can redeem themselves. I ordered an MK2 there an hour ago eventhough my first experience was similar to yours. Quite sloppy service..


 
 They said that I'll be getting a full refund. That was on Wednesday though, nothing on my PayPal yet.


----------



## moriez

Hey, that happened to me as well! God awful 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 How hard can it be? Don't hold back and keep spamming them.


----------



## Levaix

Anyone tried the Telefunken E88CC?

 http://www.upscaleaudio.com/telefunken-e88cc-6922/

 I'm getting the itch... Currently using an Amperex 7308 off eBay which is nice, but it seems the Telefunken might have even less noise and more separation. Running my Ultrasone Sig Pros through the Aune, and I'm craving wider soundstage.

 Also considering getting an O2 to use instead of the built-in amp. Big improvement, or marginal? My Sig Pros aren't hard to drive, once again more looking for extra detail, separation, and soundstage.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Followed the advice from the OP of this thread who stated that another tube is "better" in his view ; http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=567610&highlight=aune+t1
  
 Bought the GE that he gave the biggest marks to and I guess it's because he uses a tube amp as well but I find that although it has good articulation, that it's quite bass shy. His comments on the bass seem to insinuate that he has a bass-heavy rig or at least is predisposed to having natural bass extension. My guess is the Amperex OG tube pushes it over the top and therefore the user finds it to be too much.
  
 If you're interested in the tube, let me know and I could sell it to you. Otherwise, I'll keep it for troubleshooting purposes and as a spare in case anything happens to my beloved OG.


----------



## zoneykid

strat-mangler said:


> Followed the advice from the OP of this thread who stated that another tube is "better" in his view ; http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=567610&highlight=aune+t1
> 
> Bought the GE that he gave the biggest marks to and I guess it's because he uses a tube amp as well but I find that although it has good articulation, that it's quite bass shy. His comments on the bass seem to insinuate that he has a bass-heavy rig or at least is predisposed to having natural bass extension. My guess is the Amperex OG tube pushes it over the top and therefore the user finds it to be too much.
> 
> If you're interested in the tube, let me know and I could sell it to you. Otherwise, I'll keep it for troubleshooting purposes and as a spare in case anything happens to my beloved OG.


 
  
 Have you tried applying some EQ to bring up the bass? Personally I have found the bass on most tubes to be not quite as much as I want so usually I have to go in and tweak it a bit.
  
 If you don't have an EQ program and want to try, I would recommend Viper4Windows (What I use) or if you want to get a little more technical Equalizer APO: http://www.head-fi.org/t/649389/a-free-parametric-equalizer-for-windows-vista-7-and-8-that-doesnt-need-asio-or-vst-it-works-inline-at-the-os-level


----------



## Levaix

Oops! I should have done a Google search before posting.


tomatolicious said:


> *Telefunken E88CC*
> _Gold pins, Halo getter_
> 
> Unlike with the Siemens above, I got exactly what I expected from the hype around this tube. Clear soundstage and a very open and rich sound. With my HE-400 it may already be a bit too bright for my taste.


 

 A bit bright? I have Sig Pros... I think I'll survive.


----------



## SinfulAngel

Hello I'm considering the the aune but i'm curious tubes generally last and how difficult they are to switch?


----------



## diaBoliQu3

sinfulangel said:


> Hello I'm considering the the aune but i'm curious tubes generally last and how difficult they are to switch?


 
 Hard in term of wallet damage or changing the tubes? If wallet, I think Aune T1 and tube rolling isn't so hard on wallet. Pretty happy with Amperex OG 6DJ88. For changing the tubes, it's not that hard neither. Just carefully pull the tube, and replace it with a new tube carefully. It's about a year and none of my tubes faulty, including vintage tubes.


----------



## SinfulAngel

good to hear thanks


----------



## Strat-Mangler

zoneykid said:


> Have you tried applying some EQ to bring up the bass? Personally I have found the bass on most tubes to be not quite as much as I want so usually I have to go in and tweak it a bit.
> 
> If you don't have an EQ program and want to try, I would recommend Viper4Windows (What I use) or if you want to get a little more technical Equalizer APO: http://www.head-fi.org/t/649389/a-free-parametric-equalizer-for-windows-vista-7-and-8-that-doesnt-need-asio-or-vst-it-works-inline-at-the-os-level


 
  
 Thanks for the tip! I'll check it out if it ever comes to that but I don't tend to favor outrageous EQs because they'll affect things in negative ways. For instance, using EQ typically introduces more distortion. In some instances, it can effect the delicate balance between the frequencies.
  
 The tubes themselves should allow the sound to naturally bloom in all frequencies. Frankly, the tubes themselves introduce some distortion and incorporating some artificial EQ would jack that up as well.
  
 But I do appreciate the link and will bookmark it if I ever need it in the future.
  
 For my personal tastes, I thought the difference between both the Amperex OG and the GE were rather staggering ; the GE was weaker and had more of a laid-back approach with good articulation but next to no bass. I also found it a tad cold and analytical.-sounding. Meanwhile, the OG has a more forward presentation (although without any ear fatigue) and tons of *deep* bass. Good musicality as well. It's definitely more to my liking. It exhibits a warmer sound for sure.
  
 Of course, there's no accounting for tastes so feel free to review both yourself and report back.


----------



## pr0udfish

I've joined the T1 club! 
  
 Having just purchased a T1, what should I be doing to ensure I don't blow it up after I flick the switch. I'm located in Australia where we run off of ~230V 10A circuits, and the T1 I've picked up comes with the EU adapter I believe. I've purchased a 1.6A quick blow fuse to put in once I receive the unit... is the rest as simple as getting a wall plug adapter?


----------



## moriez

reiserfs said:


> > I highly advise to not buy from Audiophonics.fr. *They might ship fast,* but when it comes down to RMA they simply won't answer. Handing the case over to PayPal.


 


> Originally Posted by *reiserFS* /img/forum/go_quote.gif
> 
> They said that I'll be getting a full refund. That was on Wednesday though, nothing on my PayPal yet.


 
  
 Any word from them yet? They do ship fast. It was send out the day after ordering. It better not be DOA or something.


----------



## reiserFS

moriez said:


> Any word from them yet? They do ship fast. It was send out the day after ordering. It better not be DOA or something.


 
 Got the refund, yeah.


----------



## moriez

Good to hear. They just need longer processing time which is something to think of for anyone ordering with them.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Wonder if anybody took the plunge on the Siemens E88CC which CoiL is raving about. 
  
 Right now, I'm still using my trusty Amperex OG which is amazing but if there's anything better out there, I'd definitely be all ears.


----------



## utee05

I am interested in going to a tube setup and was curious how well this pairs with T90 or HE400?


----------



## MrEleventy

utee05 said:


> I am interested in going to a tube setup and was curious how well this pairs with T90 or HE400?


If you're sensitive to brightness/treble, it won't help either set of cans. You can smooth it out a bit with a mullard or amperex tube but, it can only do so much.


----------



## utee05

mreleventy said:


> If you're sensitive to brightness/treble, it won't help either set of cans. You can smooth it out a bit with a mullard or amperex tube but, it can only do so much.


 
 Yes I am a bit sensitive depending on the track. I think since I am looking for it that is probably why I am sensitive to it. 
  
 I will do more research to see what works well.


----------



## Brendo09

pr0udfish said:


> I've joined the T1 club!
> 
> Having just purchased a T1, what should I be doing to ensure I don't blow it up after I flick the switch. I'm located in Australia where we run off of ~230V 10A circuits, and the T1 I've picked up comes with the EU adapter I believe. I've purchased a 1.6A quick blow fuse to put in once I receive the unit... is the rest as simple as getting a wall plug adapter?


 
  
 I think mine came with a multi voltage transformer (110-240) and a two pin plug, with the AU 3 pin adaptor for it. Can't be sure, it's not in front of me right now. 
  
 Check the transformer, it should be fairly clear what it will accept for an input voltage. 
  
 Good luck with the T1, I loved mine with headphones at work, but it's now fixed in a speaker setup in my kitchen.


----------



## mikoss

strat-mangler said:


> Wonder if anybody took the plunge on the Siemens E88CC which CoiL is raving about.
> 
> Right now, I'm still using my trusty Amperex OG which is amazing but if there's anything better out there, I'd definitely be all ears.


 
 I also have a Siemens E88CC and it has the most bass compared to any of the other tubes I've tried.
  
 If you're into bass, and also want nice extended, airy highs I recommend it.


----------



## mikoss

strat-mangler said:


> Followed the advice from the OP of this thread who stated that another tube is "better" in his view ; http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=567610&highlight=aune+t1
> 
> Bought the GE that he gave the biggest marks to and I guess it's because he uses a tube amp as well but I find that although it has good articulation, that it's quite bass shy. His comments on the bass seem to insinuate that he has a bass-heavy rig or at least is predisposed to having natural bass extension. My guess is the Amperex OG tube pushes it over the top and therefore the user finds it to be too much.
> 
> If you're interested in the tube, let me know and I could sell it to you. Otherwise, I'll keep it for troubleshooting purposes and as a spare in case anything happens to my beloved OG.


 
 Hmmm interesting. I bought some GE "Smoked" 6DJ8's a while back because somebody else recommended them here, I think they were listening to electronic music. 
  
 I've decided to pop one in this week and let it burn in... it actually sounds to me like so far the emphasis is on the mids, a bit lower pitched than the OG which I find has this slight emphasis on the high mids and seems to make vocals sound very 3d to me. Electric guitar and cello is sounding very nice (listening to Andrew Bird). Also surprisingly seems to have a pretty large soundstage so far. I'll let it burn in for a good 20-30 hours and see how it sounds... very surprised reading the comments on AK, although that is an ECC86 made in Holland. My GE's are 6DJ8's from the states (purchased cheap on ebay... I think they went 2 for $20 with shipping).
  
Anyone roll GE's a lot with their Aune T1 and want to chime in? I'd love to hear more impressions.


----------



## Hi-fried

utee05 said:


> I am interested in going to a tube setup and was curious how well this pairs with T90 or HE400?




I have the t1 and he-400's. Im absolutely loving this setup. This is my first dive into mid-fi, hi-fi, whatever you want to call it. I dont find the treble to be too much. What is a problem is hdtracks! They keep taking my money!


----------



## Strat-Mangler

mikoss said:


> I also have a Siemens E88CC and it has the most bass compared to any of the other tubes I've tried.
> 
> If you're into bass, and also want nice extended, airy highs I recommend it.


 
  
 According to your short review elsewhere in this thread, the Siemens has a narrower soundstage than the Amperex. Is that still your verdict?
  
 Are there any other attributes that you found are in stark contrast between the two?
  


mikoss said:


> Hmmm interesting. I bought some GE "Smoked" 6DJ8's a while back because somebody else recommended them here, I think they were listening to electronic music.
> 
> I've decided to pop one in this week and let it burn in... it actually sounds to me like so far the emphasis is on the mids, a bit lower pitched than the OG which I find has this slight emphasis on the high mids and seems to make vocals sound very 3d to me. Electric guitar and cello is sounding very nice (listening to Andrew Bird). Also surprisingly seems to have a pretty large soundstage so far. I'll let it burn in for a good 20-30 hours and see how it sounds... very surprised reading the comments on AK, although that is an ECC86 made in Holland. My GE's are 6DJ8's from the states (purchased cheap on ebay... I think they went 2 for $20 with shipping).
> 
> Anyone roll GE's a lot with their Aune T1 and want to chime in? I'd love to hear more impressions.


 
  
 Well, I bought the GE that this poster gave the top marks to and was a little disappointed.
  
 I found it to be anemic in the bass department, although it does have a nice organic articulated midrange and clear highs. If somebody is trying to tame some cans that are a little bass-heavy, I'd recommend that tube for sure.


----------



## rwpritchett

mikoss said:


> Anyone roll GE's a lot with their Aune T1 and want to chime in? I'd love to hear more impressions.




I've got two GE tubes I've tried in my T1 (and also in my Bravo V1):

1972 Holland-made GE ECC85/6AQ8 Single Leg Dimple Disc Getter
1972 Holland-made GE ECC86/6GM8 A Frame Dimple Disc Getter

It depends on which headphones I use, but the ECC85 is still my favorite sounding tube for my K550, but not so much on my Fidelio X1. On that one I prefer the OG and Bugle Boy sound. I haven't given the ECC86 much listening time on either headphone. My first impressions of the ECC86 was "meh". It was kind of flat and dull sounding, though it may just need some time to burn in since it was advertised as NOS.


----------



## mikoss

strat-mangler said:


> According to your short review elsewhere in this thread, the Siemens has a narrower soundstage than the Amperex. Is that still your verdict?
> 
> Are there any other attributes that you found are in stark contrast between the two?
> 
> ...


 
 Yeah, I still personally prefer the soundstage width and resolution of the Amperex 7308 to the Siemens E88CC. I find it easier to resolve individual instruments with the Amperex tube, and although it is arguably less exciting to me than the Siemens, I usually prefer it for the resolution. I love the holographic sound of the OG, and the beautiful mids of the 7308.
  
 The Siemens tube has great bass... deep, full sounding to me, without muddying things up. I would say the Siemens definitely has the edge for deeper bass, and airy, extended highs. Where the Amperex tubes shine for me are the mids and resolution, which to me is a great match with the HD-650s. I haven't had as much listening time with my Siemens and HE-500's, but I suspect that the Siemens brings out some excitement with the planars. I may prefer this tube more for these headphones... I'll have to see. (I'm a sucker for acoustic guitar and vocals, but I really like the very natural sound of the kick drum and toms with the Siemens.)
  
 Just for reference, the Amperex 6DJ8 OG is a Holland, dimpled getter GAC ∆9F5.
 7308 is white label Holland PQ halo getter ∆3E2.
 Siemens has no label, halo getter AØ 1≠ 4F


----------



## zoneykid

I'll be getting my french ECC189 in something like a week, which will bring my total tube collection to... 7?
 So far my favorite tube is the Holland ECC85/6AQ8, originally had a GE one that went bad so now I'm using an RCA(Amperex made in Holland) that's close enough that it's still my favorite.
  
 For those who would care to hear what I say, here is a rough list of preference based on general usage and mostly with EQing of some sort, I'll try and get reviews going at some point without using EQ so things are a little more honest but in the meantime
 For reference I mainly use my DT990s with the T1, if anyone wants me to give a review using other cans I also have in my possession: DT770s, Senn HD280 PROs and MDR-V6s. 
 If anyone is curious I can also give some comments about using my FiiO E17 as an amp too, though I don't use it for that too often as I'm pretty satisfied with the T1 amp.
  
 But for now my rough list:
 1.  ECC85/6AQ8 GE Made in Holland                      4.5/5 - These came the closest I've heard to a perfect match for my DT990s, good bass, very clear and very _very_ wide soundstage, feels like you can close your eyes and pretend you're in a concert hall. Unfortunately developed strong noise in the right channel on low frequencies. Great bass, good mids and great highs.
  
 2.  ECC85/6AQ8 RCA(Amperex) Made in Holland   4.25/5 - Been using this one for nearly a week, so far it feels like it's not as clear as the GE but that very well could be my imagination combined with my using EQ. Wish I could compare it to my GE 6AQ8, might still give it a go since at least one channel sounds fine. Great bass, good mids and good(for now) highs.
  
 3.  ECC88/6DJ8 GE Made in USA                            4.0/5 - These came close to the 6AQ8 in terms of the highs, mids, and lows but I feel like the soundstage is much narrower. Haven't done much A/B testing though so not entirely too sure how it compares. Also I can't remember if it was the GE or Sylvania that had better bass. Good bass, mids and highs
  
 4.  ECC88/6DJ8 Sylvania Made in USA                    4.0/5 - See above for the GE 6DJ8, mostly the same sound, need to do some testing for review.
  
 5. ECC88/6H23N Vokshod Made in Russia              3.5/5 - Decent sound but felt lacked some clarity and had a narrow soundstage. Good bass, decent mids and highs. I think these are pretty cool because they're from Soviet Russia, I got a pair for cheap(they only had pairs for some reason...) and you can see the CCCP logo on one of them.
  
 6. ECC88/6922 Electro Harmonix                             3.0/5 - Better highs, more clarity and slightly wider soundstage but worse bass. Don't remember mids enough to comment.
  
 7. ECC85/6AQ8 Mullard Made in Britain                     ?/5 - Mad noise on both channels, much worse than GE 6AQ8. $23 down the drain lol.
  
  
 That's it for now, I'll have a more detailed and accurate list later that'll also include the ECC189.
 A word of warning for anyone thinking of picking up a 6AQ8 tube, they don't always play nice with our T1 so you may end up getting a "bad" tube or two depending on your luck, it may be wiser to try other alternatives if you're strapped for cash; The 6DJ8 USA tubes are quite excellent for the money.
 I'll probably pick up a Siemens E88CC at some point to see if it's claim to fame bass is accurate.


----------



## SpiderNhan

zoneykid said:


> I'll be getting my french ECC189 in something like a week, which will bring my total tube collection to... 7?
> So far my favorite tube is the Holland ECC85/6AQ8, originally had a GE one that went bad so now I'm using an RCA(Amperex made in Holland) that's close enough that it's still my favorite.
> 
> For those who would care to hear what I say, here is a rough list of preference based on general usage and mostly with EQing of some sort, I'll try and get reviews going at some point without using EQ so things are a little more honest but in the meantime
> ...


 
 Thanks for the impressions. I'm curious to hear what you would think about the Holland Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8. I don't have any high-end open headphones to test it with, but on my M-100 the sound stage I get is huge. I'll have to check out the RCA ECC85/6AQ8.


----------



## eobet

I just received a T1 MK2 from AliExpress (doing everything in my power to avoid Paypal), and I have one question:
  
 Anyone else having a hell of a time getting the plexiglass cover pieces into the holes around the tube?
  
 I can't get them to fit, and aren't they supposed to be easily removed for when you switch tubes?


----------



## MrEleventy

eobet said:


> I just received a T1 MK2 from AliExpress (doing everything in my power to avoid Paypal), and I have one question:
> 
> Anyone else having a hell of a time getting the plexiglass cover pieces into the holes around the tube?
> 
> I can't get them to fit, and aren't they supposed to be easily removed for when you switch tubes?


Mine broke a loooong time ago but even if they weren't, I wouldn't use them. It makes it harder to roll. Plus, it still looks nice w/o it.


----------



## Levaix

Yeah, my little guards broke off inside the post holes... More trouble than they're worth.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I broke those covers the first time I tried to use them, which was probably the best thing I could have done.  It looks much better without them, imo.


----------



## eobet

Ok... that doesn't sound good... guess I'll have to take a knife to those plastic edges...
  
 Question number two then (and I guess I really need to read through this thread):
  
 How do you switch the thing on?
  
 I've hooked it up and tried both the USB and SW switch on the rear (that the manual doesn't tell me what it does), but nothing.
  
 Nothing lights up, and there's no sound from the headphone jack...


----------



## rwpritchett

Did you wait for the 30 second relay to kick in? After 30s, the white LED comes on and then you get sound.


----------



## eobet

No white LED.
  
 What does the SW switch do?


----------



## MrEleventy

Turns it on.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Take off the bottom and see if you are getting a green light.


----------



## eobet

ncsuzoso said:


> Take off the bottom and see if you are getting a green light.


 
  
 Sorry, it looks like there are rather big, clear rubber feet covering the screws for doing that, so I'm going to contact the seller before I do permanent damage on the thing (which I really don't want to do).
  
 Bummer, but it looks like earlier in the thread that someone else got a MK2 DOA as well...


----------



## MrEleventy

Plug everything in, flick the switch upwards and wait a min or two. If nothing happens, then it's DOA. Initial turn on take a little bit. I thought I had a DOA too at first. GL.


----------



## zoneykid

mreleventy said:


> Plug everything in, flick the switch upwards and wait a min or two. If nothing happens, then it's DOA. Initial turn on take a little bit. I thought I had a DOA too at first. GL.


 
  
 There's a 30 second warm up delay between turning it on and it activating the sound outputs.
  
 Edit: Someone already said that and apparently I missed it >.>
  
 Hopefully we don't have a case of another DOA T1


----------



## eobet

Ok, made sure the switch was in the upwards position, still no light. Nothing.
  
 DOA MK2 for the second time on this forum in a couple of days apparently. So much for that QC sticker. 
  
 That SW switch btw barely moves. It feels like really shoddy quality with no firm "on" or "off" position...
  
 Ugh, I hope I don't have to pay for shipping back to China. 
  
 PS. The power brick is huge and super heavy, but with really short cables! I can't even have it on the floor because the cable doesn't reach all the way up to where the T1 is on my desk, and it's a US plug. Does anyone build a EU replacement with perhaps longer cables and less ugly?


----------



## MrEleventy

That's a bummer to hear.  Mine is firm and snappy when turning on and off. It gives a satisfying audible click. Seems like the QC on the T1s have gone down hill ever since they've been popping up as a group buy option. A lot of those seem to have issues.


----------



## reiserFS

Sad to hear that the QC on the T1s have dropped. Thank god my second unit is working fine (besides the supplied usb cable being broken as well).


----------



## JohnFoe

Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried using the Aune T1 -> Heed CanAMP.  I thought I've seen the combination used before but I'm not sure and would like to know how it sounds.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

eobet said:


> Sorry, it looks like there are rather big, clear rubber feet covering the screws for doing that, so I'm going to contact the seller before I do permanent damage on the thing (which I really don't want to do).
> 
> Bummer, but it looks like earlier in the thread that someone else got a MK2 DOA as well...


 
  
 Are you absolutely positive that the tube is properly and fully inserted? You should not be seeing any of the pins once it's fully in place.
  
 The switch has a big swing so you should not be seeing very little difference between it being in the on and off positions.


----------



## eobet

Well, do you have a big difference between the top switch and the rear switch?
  
 Because for me it's like night and day!
  
 The top switch is firm and with a proper mechanical "click", while the rear switch just basically rattles.
  
 The seller got back to me and said that they will contact tech... whatever that means...


----------



## zoneykid

eobet said:


> Well, do you have a big difference between the top switch and the rear switch?
> 
> Because for me it's like night and day!
> 
> ...


 
  
 The rear switch should be like the top switch.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

zoneykid said:


> The rear switch should be like the top switch.


 
  
 Exactly. That's where your problem lies.
  
 Looks like you have a defective switch. You'll have to exchange your device.


----------



## mikoss

Hrmm seems that quality control is definitely an issue. How was your heat issue Strat? Did swapping tubes help with keeping it cool, or are you still rocking the fan?


----------



## Strat-Mangler

mikoss said:


> Hrmm seems that quality control is definitely an issue. How was your heat issue Strat? Did swapping tubes help with keeping it cool, or are you still rocking the fan?


 
  
 Rocking the fan, huh? LOL!
  
 Well,... no. I don't know why but since I swapped tubes and eventually put my Amperex OG tube back in, I've had zero issues. None whatsoever. And that's hours and hours upon hours of listening to music loudly, too.
  
 Maybe the tube wasn't seated properly? I could've sworn I had pushed down properly on it but perhaps not 100%. In any case, no fan needed to keep it cool anymore. But let's not forget that my unit is in a sealed closet so it gets 7-10 degrees hotter in there than it is outside of it. Nevertheless, no issues for the past week and I've been putting it through its paces.
  
 I *love* the sound of that tube! Let me know if you managed to find a soldering iron on your end and whether your offer still stands. I'll understand if it doesn't, no worries. 
  
 In the meantime, I've purchased a soldering kit so that I can learn how to do that properly. I hope to eventually perform some modifications for myself but ideally, I'd rather leave that to people such as yourself who are naturally more skilled than I (especially right now) in that regard.


----------



## reiserFS

eobet said:


> Well, do you have a big difference between the top switch and the rear switch?
> 
> Because for me it's like night and day!
> 
> ...


 
 Had the exact same problem.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

lol, I have removed that switch from the PCB and re-soldered it back in to get a better angle on soldering caps inside the T1.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> lol, I have removed that switch from the PCB and re-soldered it back in to get a better angle on soldering caps inside the T1.


 
 Genius. I have been trying to fit all of my caps into the case... that would be a good place to start. Did you manage to get them soldered in and fitting in the case?
  
@Strat-Mangler ohh ok, sorry, someone mentioned they had used a little usb fan to keep their Aune cool. I'll let you know if I do manage to get them soldered all to fit in the case  
  
 Also, haven't finished with that GE smokey tube... I made the mistake of putting my 7308 back in for a listen and it just sounds so much better... hard to go back to burning in the GE.


----------



## Hansotek

I've been using the T1 as my primary amp for a few months now. I just started experimenting with running it as a DAC only, sending the line out to different amps. 

My first stab was runnig the following chain: Mac> Aune T1 (line out)> JDS Labs CMoyBB> AKG K701

The results were incredible! You get the nice tube warmth and punchiness of the Aune and a bass boost which is absolutely perfect for the K701's (IMO) somewhat bland and bass-free sound signature. (Note: you should purchase the 2x 9v CMoy and specify your AKG model if you are duplicaing this experiment- the7xx models need lots of current). To my ears, the combined sound is gorgeous.

Anyway, I wanted to share my successful experiment with my fellow T1 owners and ask if anyone else has tried the "amp rolling" thing? What amp/headphone combos have you tried using the T1 as a DAC only?


----------



## MrEleventy

I've tried objective2, Magni, Vali, darkvoice 336 and e17. objective2 and darkvoice are my faves


----------



## SpiderNhan

hansotek said:


> I've been using the T1 as my primary amp for a few months now. I just started experimenting with running it as a DAC only, sending the line out to different amps.
> 
> My first stab was runnig the following chain: Mac> Aune T1 (line out)> JDS Labs CMoyBB> AKG K701
> 
> ...


 
 I'm running the T1 with a Holland Ameperex Orange Globe 1969 fed into a FiiO E9. My primary headphones are the V-MODA M-100 and the decreased bass and increased sound stage of the OG tube helps with the dark, closed sound of my cans. Lana Del Ray on this set up is incredible.


----------



## Hansotek

mreleventy said:


> I've tried objective2, Magni, Vali, darkvoice 336 and e17. objective2 and darkvoice are my faves




Interesting! I've thought about the Objective 2. What were the changes you noticed vs. the stock Aune SS amp section?

Never considered the Darkvoice with the T1 before... From what I've read, it sounds like people really like them. I was considering a double down on the tubes with a T1> Bottlehead Crack> HD650 chain.


----------



## Hansotek

spidernhan said:


> I'm running the T1 with a Holland Ameperex Orange Globe 1969 fed into a FiiO E9. My primary headphones are the V-MODA M-100 and the decreased bass and increased sound stage of the OG tube helps with the dark, closed sound of my cans. Lana Del Ray on this set up is incredible.




I actually have an E09K and an M80. Maybe I can try a mini version of that combo! I hadn't actually considered pairing them before- the T1 is my main work setup and I have the Fiio E17/09k combo at home.


----------



## manishex

I thought you can only bypass the DAC, how are you guys bypassing the ss amp. Also he-400i impressions suggest solid state amp, I wonder what T1 combo people are going to use


----------



## MrEleventy

...The rca outs?


----------



## rwpritchett

I'll have to try my T1 feeding my other two amps and see how they compare (cMoyBB & Bravo V1).

Unfortunately, I'm in the middle of moving right now and I don't even know where any of my audio gear is. I'm actually listening straight from my phone right now


----------



## SpiderNhan

hansotek said:


> I actually have an E09K and an M80. Maybe I can try a mini version of that combo! I hadn't actually considered pairing them before- the T1 is my main work setup and I have the Fiio E17/09k combo at home.


 
 I found the Amperex OG to be a little bass light so the warmth added by the E9 helps add more body to the lows.


----------



## Hansotek

manishex said:


> I thought you can only bypass the DAC, how are you guys bypassing the ss amp. Also he-400i impressions suggest solid state amp, I wonder what T1 combo people are going to use




To use the DAC only you must run your source to the USB in and then run through the RCA line out. Anything through the RCA out will bypass the amp section entirely.

I would be interested in hearing suggestions on that too. I'm currently using the HE400 with the Focus Pads (the pads for the HE400i/560- $45, but well worth it). That combo sounds fantastic out of my Aune T1.


----------



## moriez

Just to follow up on the delivery from Audiophonics in France, all went flawless. Very fast shipping and the T1 operates as one expects it would. So, they have earned back a star in my book. No complaints.
  
 As far as the T1 itself goes, haven't spend much time with it but what I've heard pleases me. Swapped the stock tube for a new Gold Lion as it was quite easy to get and I think I have heard it being a little less shouty. We'll see how it develops.


----------



## H20Fidelity

For those looking for cheap (but effective) cables for Aune we've stumbled across a cable maker on eBay by the name of Ghentaudio, he does numerous cables, RCA to RCA, RCA to 3.5, USB A-B etc. I use his RCA to 3.5mm on my Aune T1 and thought I'd drop the thread here for you guys to check out. His prices are absolutely _cheap cheap cheap._

 Here's the thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/725542/ghentaudio-cables-impressions-opinions-first-impressions-pictures-in

 For example: This cable fully sheathed below (mine) was only $17 shipped.




 Hopefully this helps someone.


----------



## manishex

Have you tried their usb which is gold plated. I have a cheap gold plated one and it add a sizeable amount of treble for bass


----------



## dana789

manishex said:


> Have you tried their usb which is gold plated. I have a cheap gold plated one and it add a sizeable amount of treble for bass


 

 sorry if this looks like I'm picking a fight, but on Head-Fi we have had many experts explain how USB works, These include folks who work with it at the basic design level. They tell us any change in frequency response, dynamic range, etc from the properties of a cable is impossible. Either the cable works, or it doesn't. That might not be strictly true when the USB supplies power as noise could make its way from your computer to any USB peripheral. But that is not the case with the T1 since the T1 does not get its power from USB.
  
 For the record, I enjoy gold-plated cables because they look cool and make me feel good.
  
 Dana789


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> Genius. I have been trying to fit all of my caps into the case... that would be a good place to start. Did you manage to get them soldered in and fitting in the case?
> 
> @Strat-Mangler ohh ok, sorry, someone mentioned they had used a little usb fan to keep their Aune cool. I'll let you know if I do manage to get them soldered all to fit in the case
> 
> Also, haven't finished with that GE smokey tube... I made the mistake of putting my 7308 back in for a listen and it just sounds so much better... hard to go back to burning in the GE.


 
  
 Yes all of my caps fit inside the T1, the only problem caps are found on the amp board imo.


----------



## manishex

Yea I understand digital signals, it shouldn't make a difference but I'm pretty sure I'm hearing a difference and the listening volume also varies very slightly, Also the new gold plated one is meant for high speed data transfer whereas my other cables are very old.


----------



## H20Fidelity

manishex said:


> Have you tried their usb which is gold plated. I have a cheap gold plated one and it add a sizeable amount of treble for bass


 


 I was going to try his silver plated USB A-B cable though I already own AudioQuest Forest USB A-B, but still curiosity eats me alive about Ghentaudio's version.

 If I listened at the computer more I would have done so by now. My Aune is basically an ornament for most parts on the table. (not much use)

 Probably no more than 50 hours on a brand new Golden Lion tube.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

mikoss said:


> Genius. I have been trying to fit all of my caps into the case... that would be a good place to start. Did you manage to get them soldered in and fitting in the case?
> 
> @Strat-Mangler ohh ok, sorry, someone mentioned they had used a little usb fan to keep their Aune cool. I'll let you know if I do manage to get them soldered all to fit in the case
> 
> Also, haven't finished with that GE smokey tube... I made the mistake of putting my 7308 back in for a listen and it just sounds so much better... hard to go back to burning in the GE.


 

 Yeah, that was me.
  
 Since I switched tubes and eventually put back the Amperex OG, I haven't needed it at all. My guess is that the tube wasn't initially properly seated and somehow would exhibit the issue I described previously, but after a week of blasting music for ours on end through my Aune T1, I can safely say I haven't experienced any issues stemming from the tube being too hot. So no more USB fan needed. Hooray!


----------



## Strat-Mangler

spidernhan said:


> I found the Amperex OG to be a little bass light so the warmth added by the E9 helps add more body to the lows.


 
  
 Maybe you have a weak tube because mine is QUITE bassy. Fantastic low deep bass. Much more so than other tubes I used.
  
 I'm not the only one who mentioned this, so my suggestion would be to perhaps look for a stronger-testing Amperex 7308 OG tube to replace the current one you're using.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

manishex said:


> Yea I understand digital signals, it shouldn't make a difference but I'm pretty sure I'm hearing a difference and the listening volume also varies very slightly, Also the new gold plated one is meant for high speed data transfer whereas my other cables are very old.


 
  
 Again, shouldn't factor in in any way. It's all digital. Either it works or it doesn't. Any differences are self-injected.


----------



## SpiderNhan

strat-mangler said:


> Maybe you have a weak tube because mine is QUITE bassy. Fantastic low deep bass. Much more so than other tubes I used.
> 
> I'm not the only one who mentioned this, so my suggestion would be to perhaps look for a stronger-testing Amperex 7308 OG tube to replace the current one you're using.


 
 It's possible. I bought them as a used pair on eBay. They both tested well and sound pretty much the same. Mine are Amperex 6DJ8 OGs, if that makes a difference. They're not bass-light in the sense that they don't have much bass, but compared to my other two tubes, the EH6922 and my Bugle Boy 6DJ8, they have the least bass presence and impact. They also have the sweetest mid-range and widest (read: colossal) sound stage and the signature pairs very well with my bass-heavy V-MODA M-100, so the "lack of bass" in my case is a plus.


----------



## penmarker

strat-mangler said:


> Again, shouldn't factor in in any way. It's all digital. Either it works or it doesn't. Any differences are self-injected.


 
 I'm just gonna put this possibility on the table here. (as explained by my friend)
  
 All cables have inductions and resistance, and data transferred in digital formats are in binaries. Music has frequencies towards both ends of the audio spectrum where its too slow for us to be able to hear, and too fast for us to be able to hear.
 Now, _inductance_ is when bits of binary data is too fast and too many but suddenly there's a little gap of 0. For instance: 1111111011111111. 
 Since binary only has 1/0 or yes/no, and this data is transferred through power (electricity in the cable), there's a chance that the transferred signal is received as: 1111111111111111 because the cable's inductance bridged the 0 with electricity from the surrounding 1.
 That's _inductance_.
  
 Resistance is when 0000000010000000 gets transferred as 0000000000000000 because the cable's resistance rendered the single bit to 0.
  
 That's only one bit of data. We got lossless format now, wonder how many million/more bit of data transferred per second.


----------



## milan616

But most data transmission is encoded (e.g. 8/10b) to avoid long single value problems. To get corruption that makes it sound better for more than a microsecond is practically impossible with such encoding as it would have to look correct to the receiver mathematically. It would be akin to winning the lottery everyday for the rest of your life.
  
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/8b/10b_encoding


----------



## NCSUZoSo

It is pretty damn simple guys, a digital signal is either on or off (light switch) unlike an analog signal that can be anywhere from too low to too high vs. the expected value causing distortion of some sort (lantern).


----------



## Strat-Mangler

penmarker said:


> I'm just gonna put this possibility on the table here. (as explained by my friend)
> 
> All cables have inductions and resistance, and data transferred in digital formats are in binaries. Music has frequencies towards both ends of the audio spectrum where its too slow for us to be able to hear, and too fast for us to be able to hear.
> Now, _inductance_ is when bits of binary data is too fast and too many but suddenly there's a little gap of 0. For instance: 1111111011111111.
> ...


 
  
 Your friend needs to get educated in the stuff he spouts off about.
  
 With respect, the speed at which data is sent is but a fraction of what the cable is able to support. That's point #1.
  
 Secondly, if that were true, that would result in data corruption. Just a slight corruption of archived data (such as a ZIP file, for instance) would result in the file's ID and data content to change. There are keys that are sent to validate such data constantly. If there's a mismatch, you would be alerted. You could perform a copy or move operation a million times over and you would never be able to reproduce data corruption that would be traced back to the cable.
  
 See, the problem with repeating stuff like this is that misinformation can be read and transmitted to a whole slew of people who will believe it just because there are words in there that this person might not understand. It's critical to be aware that there are some error-correction schemes in order to prevent any of that stuff from occurring.
  
 Let's stick to the topic of the Aune T1 because seeing a dead horse being beaten (again) like this especially in this thread isn't interesting, nor is it helpful in any way to people here.
  
 This will be my last msg in this thread about this topic.


----------



## hdtv00

Yea back on topic... I'm wondering if it's best to set gain to 0 on this and have it 95% on volume knob or is it better to go up to the 10db gain and have volume at 55%-60%. Anything have any thoughts on this, trying out my new HD 700's.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

You try them both and pick what sounds the best to you, there are no magic numbers.


----------



## hdtv00

Well yea I get that but doesn't leaving it in low gain introduce less distortion?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I have mine completely wide open on gain and I have yet to hear any distortion with around 300 hours of use.


----------



## sandab

hdtv00 said:


> Yea back on topic... I'm wondering if it's best to set gain to 0 on this and have it 95% on volume knob or is it better to go up to the 10db gain and have volume at 55%-60%. Anything have any thoughts on this, trying out my new HD 700's.


 
 My HD650s sound best on 16dB gain and lower volume.  They're plenty loud on lower gain but sound flatter and less dynamic.  It's ever so slightly tinny on medium gain, but it's quite subtle on the HD650s.  On my coworker's Grado RS2i's it was rather pronounced.  More so with the stock E-H 6922 than the Amperex 7308.
  
 The easiest is to just try it.  You can change gain while listening.  See what you prefer and report back.


----------



## hk1388

So my Rockets finally came in yesterday, but I'm having some issues. The sound is not what I expected at all. While I didn't have high expectations, I didn't expect it to sound this bad. It makes my HE-400 sound like they have broken drivers. There is a thick veil over the sound and the bass is extremely muddy and not textured at all. Is this just a bad pairing with the HE-400 or did I get bad tubes?


----------



## mikoss

hk1388 said:


> So my Rockets finally came in yesterday, but I'm having some issues. The sound is not what I expected at all. While I didn't have high expectations, I didn't expect it to sound this bad. It makes my HE-400 sound like they have broken drivers. There is a thick veil over the sound and the bass is extremely muddy and not textured at all. Is this just a bad pairing with the HE-400 or did I get bad tubes?




What were you using before for tubes? It's possible the rockets need some burn in time... It's also possible they don't sound as clear as your previous tubes.

I'd give them 20 hours burn in and see if your impressions change. I personally find them to be less resolving than my Amperex tubes, but they do have a fun/exciting sound to me.


----------



## hk1388

mikoss said:


> What were you using before for tubes? It's possible the rockets need some burn in time... It's also possible they don't sound as clear as your previous tubes.
> 
> I'd give them 20 hours burn in and see if your impressions change. I personally find them to be less resolving than my Amperex tubes, but they do have a fun/exciting sound to me.


 
  
 I was using Amperex Orange Globe.
  
 How do go about burning in tubes?


----------



## mikoss

hk1388 said:


> I was using Amperex Orange Globe.
> 
> How do go about burning in tubes?


 
 Play music through them 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 See if you notice any changes in the clarity... I personally believe there is a burn-in period where the sound changes (maybe 1-2db or more) and it will definitely affect my impressions of tubes. It may also be your brain "adjusting" to the presentation of the tube.
  
 20 hours should be enough to notice any changes. It's much like burning in new headphones... some headphones sound crappy when they're new. Some manufacturers even burn in their equipment for about 100 hours before delivery. My personal opinion on NOS tubes is 20- 40 hours should be plenty of time.


----------



## sandab

hk1388 said:


> How do go about burning in tubes?


 
 Just leave it playing music overnight with headphones plugged in.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

hk1388 said:


> So my Rockets finally came in yesterday, but I'm having some issues. The sound is not what I expected at all. While I didn't have high expectations, I didn't expect it to sound this bad. It makes my HE-400 sound like they have broken drivers. There is a thick veil over the sound and the bass is extremely muddy and not textured at all. Is this just a bad pairing with the HE-400 or did I get bad tubes?


 

 Make sure your T1 is set to 0db gain. Maybe you're overdriving them? Sure sounds like a possibility to me, based on your description.


----------



## FinalAura

Hello all. I have an aune t1 rev1 and was wondering if this will drive he-500s properly . I tried searching but couldn't find anything definitive. I'm looking to pick up this headphone if so. 

I know they can drive the he400, but I may want to take the next step with the 500s to compliment my grade rs2.

Thanks all


----------



## MrEleventy

finalaura said:


> Hello all. I have an aune t1 rev1 and was wondering if this will drive he-500s properly . I tried searching but couldn't find anything definitive. I'm looking to pick up this headphone if so.
> 
> I know they can drive the he400, but I may want to take the next step with the 500s to compliment my grade rs2.
> 
> Thanks all


I didn't do an extensive test but I did try it out a few days ago. They sound pretty good when running directly from the T1. I prefer my NFB12.1 but no complaints whatsoever if the T1 is my only option.

E: Also, most HE-500 owners recommend 1 W to drive them, Aune T1 can do 1W into 32 ohms. He-500s are 38 ohms so it's pretty close.


----------



## hk1388

strat-mangler said:


> Make sure your T1 is set to 0db gain. Maybe you're overdriving them? Sure sounds like a possibility to me, based on your description.


 
  
 How do I change the gain? Right now the little switches are set to ON.


----------



## Levaix

finalaura said:


> Hello all. I have an aune t1 rev1 and was wondering if this will drive he-500s properly . I tried searching but couldn't find anything definitive. I'm looking to pick up this headphone if so.
> 
> I know they can drive the he400, but I may want to take the next step with the 500s to compliment my grade rs2.
> 
> Thanks all


 
 I had a pair of 500s for a very short time, but they seemed to work fine with the Aune. I was using the stock EH 6922 tube at the time. That being said you'll probably want to get a better standalone amp to complement the DAC portion of the Aune eventually, even if only something like an O2.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

hk1388 said:


> How do I change the gain? Right now the little switches are set to ON.


 
  
 Switch them to off. Report back on sound quality.


----------



## Nachmanowicz

Hey there cutie pies. I have a Aune T1 paired with a DT 880 250Ohms. It has the improved stock tube. I'm looking for an affordable upgrade, any suggestions plz?


----------



## SpiderNhan

nachmanowicz said:


> Hey there cutie pies. I have a Aune T1 paired with a DT 880 250Ohms. It has the improved stock tube. I'm looking for an affordable upgrade, any suggestions plz?


 
 I suggest an Amperex Holland Orange Globe 6DJ8 tube. Can be had on eBay for ~$20-$40 and adds a sweet, spacious sound that made my closed headphones(V-MODA M-100) sound almost open. You can also run your Aune T1 as a DAC and use another amp with it. I run my T1 into a FiiO E9. Even doing it with a portable amp like the E17 sounds good.


----------



## mikoss

Heyas, just a quick note.
  
 I've got my hands on the Schiit Magni/Modi combo in the last week and I've been comparing it to my Aune T1 with ELNA Silmic II caps installed.
  
 My impressions:
  
 The Modi is a good DAC... very clean sounding, decent bass, pleasant sounding mids and decent highs. 
  
 The Aune T1 can produce deeper/tighter bass (with the Siemens E88CC tube I have), about the same clarity and smooth sounding mids, but definitely more extended and nuanced highs with my Amperex tubes (my personal fave is the 7308). I hear nuances in the guitars and vocals that don't translate with the Magni/Modi and it makes me sad.
  
 The Modi does seem to have a wider soundstage, and very a silky smooth presentation when used with a tube amp (I tried it with my Woo WA2). I enjoyed it with the Woo amp, but it was still missing the highs that I love with my T1. Overall, the Magni/Modi combo is good, but I prefer the T1. 
  
 As I know own the Magni/Modi and WA2, I can play around some more. Just wanted to put this out there for people considering the T1 vs. the Magni/Modi. Any other questions feel free to ask me.


----------



## sandab

mikoss said:


> my Aune T1 with ELNA Silmic II caps installed.


 
 When you replaced the caps, did you just replace them 1:1 with the same specs?  E.g. 220uF for 220uF, or did you also bump up the capacitance to the biggest that will fit in the enclosure?


----------



## mikoss

Yep, 1:1 although Aune puts different caps in every T1 (which changes the sound between every unit).

Per a bunch of other members suggestions, this is what is in mine:

Headphone amp board coupling caps > ELNA SilmicII 47uF 50V
Headphone amp board rail voltage caps > ELNA SilmicII 470uF 25V
Secondary power supply caps > ELNA SilmicII 470uF 25V
Main power supply caps > Panasonic FR 3300uF 25V

Also, they don't really fit very well, unless you have some skills like a couple people here. I don't have a bottom cover on mine, but the upgraded sound is totally worth it, in my opinion.


----------



## Levaix

Just picked up a used Purity Audio K.I.C.A.S. (Caliente?) amp from the classifieds that I'm running my Aune T1 through to my Sig Pros. Listening to The Megas Get Acoustic, and I can hear every time the guitarist's fingers move on the fretboard. If it weren't such an awesome experience, this would be distracting, hahaha.


----------



## sandab

mikoss said:


> Yep, 1:1 although Aune puts different caps in every T1 (which changes the sound between every unit).
> 
> Per a bunch of other members suggestions, this is what is in mine:
> 
> ...


 
 Cool - just ordered a set from Digi-Key since they have it all in stock...  Should be okay to run a few short leads to aid placement.


----------



## zoneykid

nachmanowicz said:


> Hey there cutie pies. I have a Aune T1 paired with a DT 880 250Ohms. It has the improved stock tube. I'm looking for an affordable upgrade, any suggestions plz?


 
  
 I have DT 990 250Ohms, so far my favorite tube is a GE 6AQ8 from holland, but word of warning, 6AQ8s don't always play nice with T1s, I have 2 that give off a very distorted sound (one of them being the GE tube as it used to work perfectly but then developed that issue after almost a year).
 I'm currently using an RCA 6AQ8 that comes close to the GE, a good alternative if you can't find a GE.
  
 If you want to play it safe and not get a 6AQ8, I would recommend a USA made 6DJ8, I currently have two, a Sylvania and a GE which I'll be posting a review of shortly.


----------



## JeffR714

As a beginner in the headphone game I did it simple bought the MK2 hooked it up to my computer USB and came out from my Oppo into the amp! The Oppo DAC serves me just fine might be weird but it works for me I just wanted to enjoy the HD650's as well as bypass the Onkyo TX-N626 headphone jack. I'm using this just to add the headphones to my equipment. Portability is my Fiio X3 and PSB M4U2 cans


----------



## PhoneLover94

I just ordered the Aune T1 MK2 with the stock "upgraded" 6922 tubes. Are there any specific aftermarket tubes that would be well suited to my modded AD700? These headphones are pretty balanced and neutral in sound. If I had to be honest, they lack a little in bass and have a well defined soundstage with a slight emphasis on high frequencies. Are there any tubes that will add a little bass and color to the phones?


----------



## SpiderNhan

phonelover94 said:


> I just ordered the Aune T1 MK2 with the stock "upgraded" 6922 tubes. Are there any specific aftermarket tubes that would be well suited to my modded AD700? These headphones are pretty balanced and neutral in sound. If I had to be honest, they lack a little in bass and have a well defined soundstage with a slight emphasis on high frequencies. Are there any tubes that will add a little bass and color to the phones?


 
 The first post in this thread is a good place to look.
  


joeq70 said:


> *****TUBE IMPRESSIONS*****
> 
> *Genalex Gold Lion E88CC:*
> Given some time with the Genalex and comparing it to my precious Voskhod, I have to say I’m quite impressed and that I think I’ve found a new favorite tube. The Genalex has many of the qualities of the Voskhod I like, such as intimate mids and vocals, but the Genalex is able to deliver this to me with more clarity and soundstage. The extra clarity does make the T1 sound more digital and less analog than the Voskhod, but I still think it is ultimately a superior sound. At first, I thought the Genalex had punchier bass, but after adjusting to the sound, I realized I was mistaken and that the Voskhod was more tactile in this respect.  Then, I thought perhaps a gain adjustment would make a difference, and lo and behold, +8 did just the trick in bringing the Genalex bass up to where I wanted it. Good times!
> ...


----------



## Illbetheone

I've had the T1 for only a year and want to try something new. What would be considered an upgrade over this? It makes no difference if it uses tubes or not. Thanks


----------



## SpiderNhan

illbetheone said:


> I've had the T1 for only a year and want to try something new. What would be considered an upgrade over this? It makes no difference if it uses tubes or not. Thanks


 
 Have you played with different tubes? I see that you live in Brooklyn. Me too. I can loan you an Amperex OG if you're interested.


----------



## Illbetheone

spidernhan said:


> Have you played with different tubes? I see that you live in Brooklyn. Me too. I can loan you an Amperex OG if you're interested.


 
  
 Yeah, I own about 5 tubes. Just want to try something else, you know how it goes lol.


----------



## Hansotek

illbetheone said:


> spidernhan said:
> 
> 
> > Have you played with different tubes? I see that you live in Brooklyn. Me too. I can loan you an Amperex OG if you're interested.
> ...




You could always try a DIY project like a bottlehead crack if you're just trying to scratch an itch. Or you could try amp rolling with your T1 (using the dac only and running the RCA line out to another amp).


----------



## SpiderNhan

For fun I run my T1 through my FiiO E9, E17 and JDSLabs cMoyBb v.2.03.

Each gives me a slightly different experience but it's mainly run though the E9 for easy gain switching when I want to use my headphones as desktop speakers. The cMoy has its awesome bass boost and E17 gives me treble and bass controls.


----------



## Hansotek

spidernhan said:


> For fun I run my T1 through my FiiO E9, E17 and JDSLabs cMoyBb v.2.03.
> 
> Each gives me a slightly different experience but it's mainly run though the E9 for easy gain switching when I want to use my headphones as desktop speakers. The cMoy has its awesome bass boost and E17 gives me treble and bass controls.




I also love the CMoyBB paired with the Aune T1. 

I still haven't managed to haul in my E09K to work since we were talking about this the other day, but I did manage to score an outstanding deal on some open box V-Moda M100s. It's only been a couple of days, but wow, I am loving these!


----------



## Levaix

phonelover94 said:


> I just ordered the Aune T1 MK2 with the stock "upgraded" 6922 tubes. Are there any specific aftermarket tubes that would be well suited to my modded AD700? These headphones are pretty balanced and neutral in sound. If I had to be honest, they lack a little in bass and have a well defined soundstage with a slight emphasis on high frequencies. Are there any tubes that will add a little bass and color to the phones?


 
 If you don't want to mess around, Amperex 7308. Added some pretty solid bass and gave it more of an analog sound, as well as just about better everything. I've never put the EH 6922 back in after getting mine.
  


illbetheone said:


> I've had the T1 for only a year and want to try something new. What would be considered an upgrade over this? It makes no difference if it uses tubes or not. Thanks


 
 I think the DAC is pretty solid in the Aune. If you want something relatively cheap and good to use as a separate amp maybe try an O2, or keep an eye on the classifieds. I just picked up a KICAS amp for less than an O2, definitely a different beast than the Aune's built in amp.

 Otherwise, I haven't actually heard this, but this seems like a pretty cool piece: http://www.head-fi.org/products/audio-gd-nfb-11-32/reviews/11389

 Or just skip a few steps and get a WA7...


----------



## Illbetheone

levaix said:


> If you don't want to mess around, Amperex 7308. Added some pretty solid bass and gave it more of an analog sound, as well as just about better everything. I've never put the EH 6922 back in after getting mine.
> 
> I think the DAC is pretty solid in the Aune. If you want something relatively cheap and good to use as a separate amp maybe try an O2, or keep an eye on the classifieds. I just picked up a KICAS amp for less than an O2, definitely a different beast than the Aune's built in amp.
> 
> ...


 
 Well, here's the deal. I recently bought JBL LSR 305 monitors. I really thought they would have sounded much better than they were hyped up to be. I tweaked the LF/HF switches, messed around with placement, and even bought isolation pads; yet I still feel that they are subpar, considering what I spent for them. So I figured maybe the Aune T1 was not up to the task of sourcing these. That's why I'm looking for a better DAC.


----------



## Levaix

illbetheone said:


> Well, here's the deal. I recently bought JBL LSR 305 monitors. I really thought they would have sounded much better than they were hyped up to be. I tweaked the LF/HF switches, messed around with placement, and even bought isolation pads; yet I still feel that they are subpar, considering what I spent for them. So I figured maybe the Aune T1 was not up to the task of sourcing these. That's why I'm looking for a better DAC.


 

 Could be. Really depends on what you think is missing from the sound. I'm not big into speakers, but at least for me I've never heard powered speakers completely transform as long as the source is even halfway decent.


----------



## PhoneLover94

levaix said:


> If you don't want to mess around, Amperex 7308. Added some pretty solid bass and gave it more of an analog sound, as well as just about better everything. I've never put the EH 6922 back in after getting mine.


 
 I actually just ordered some Voskhod Silver Shield NOS 6n23p. I have heard some people consider them to be at the top of the range and provide a fun listening experience. if they don't do it for me, I'll take a look at the Amperex 7308. Thanks for the suggestion


----------



## Hansotek

illbetheone said:


> levaix said:
> 
> 
> > If you don't want to mess around, Amperex 7308. Added some pretty solid bass and gave it more of an analog sound, as well as just about better everything. I've never put the EH 6922 back in after getting mine.
> ...




What exactly do you mean when you say you thought they would sound better? Are you using the monitors for mixing or just general listening?

Based on your collection, I'm guessing what you are actually looking for is something that's more "fun" sounding. If that's the case, you're not going to get it from the JBLs no matter what your source is... But I'm making a ton of assumptions here. Could you describe what you feel is missing from the sound? I also use the Aune's DAC section as a buffer for monitors, so maybe I can help you.


----------



## Illbetheone

hansotek said:


> What exactly do you mean when you say you thought they would sound better? Are you using the monitors for mixing or just general listening?
> 
> Based on your collection, I'm guessing what you are actually looking for is something that's more "fun" sounding. If that's the case, you're not going to get it from the JBLs no matter what your source is... But I'm making a ton of assumptions here. Could you describe what you feel is missing from the sound? I also use the Aune's DAC section as a buffer for monitors, so maybe I can help you.


 
  
 General listening going on here, no mixing. My previous speaker set up, a Logitech Z-2300, sounded a lot fuller and not in a bassy sort of way. The size of the JBL's over the Z-2300 is staggering and I simply thought they would have just sounded better in all aspects. I am horrible at describing what I am hearing from an audio standpoint so I really cant elaborate. Aside from that, I am using a TRS to RCA cable for my Aune T1. Maybe they need some sort of burn in, but even my girlfriend said that the Z-2300 sounded better.


----------



## Levaix

illbetheone said:


> General listening going on here, no mixing. My previous speaker set up, a Logitech Z-2300, sounded a lot fuller and not in a bassy sort of way. The size of the JBL's over the Z-2300 is staggering and I simply thought they would have just sounded better in all aspects. I am horrible at describing what I am hearing from an audio standpoint so I really cant elaborate. Aside from that, I am using a TRS to RCA cable for my Aune T1. Maybe they need some sort of burn in, but even my girlfriend said that the Z-2300 sounded better.


 

 Might just be not quite what you're looking for, honestly. The ones you got are meant to be pretty flat from my understanding. Great for detail and technical stuff, maybe not so much fun to listen to? I just ABed some desktop speakers recently and my favorite was the Creative Gigaworks series. I just wanted something that sounded fun and full, an upgrade from basic speakers. I have my headphones if I want super clarity. I got the T20 for the lower price, but Amazon has the T40 for 99 right now...

 I actually have to turn the bass knob down on mine, but definitely a rich sound. I preferred them over any of the Logitechs by a good margin. There was another brand around 150 that got really good reviews, but I can't place my finger on it, and I didn't have anywhere local to hear them.

 Otherwise, you might just have to adjust to the new ones to really hear the benefits. Your ears need to figure out what's going on.


----------



## Hansotek

illbetheone said:


> General listening going on here, no mixing. My previous speaker set up, a Logitech Z-2300, sounded a lot fuller and not in a bassy sort of way. The size of the JBL's over the Z-2300 is staggering and I simply thought they would have just sounded better in all aspects. I am horrible at describing what I am hearing from an audio standpoint so I really cant elaborate. Aside from that, I am using a TRS to RCA cable for my Aune T1. Maybe they need some sort of burn in, but even my girlfriend said that the Z-2300 sounded better.




From what you are saying, it sounds to me like you are missing extra coloration in the lower mids and upper midbass area. This would add a sense of warmth/fullness to your music that your new monitors may be missing. Your new monitors may also have a shorter decay time to assist in detail retreval. This would make them more articulate, but notes may seem thinner.

Overall, I think you have 3 options. Your best option may be to trade in your studio monitors for a home stereo setup. Your 2nd option would be to add a subwoofer to your monitor setup, which I think would help. Your 3rd option would be to get a bassier monitor. I find the KRK Rokits to be nice and warm without being too far from neutral, but I've never tried your monitors, so I have no basis for comparison.


----------



## mikoss

It actually would be interesting to hear from some people who moved on from the T1 and upgraded. I've personally tried a few more expensive setups, and still go back to my T1 with my HD-650's. 

Guess it really depends on gear and synergy and all that. I think it's also economical to try gear that takes the same tubes.


----------



## Illbetheone

hansotek said:


> From what you are saying, it sounds to me like you are missing extra coloration in the lower mids and upper midbass area. This would add a sense of warmth/fullness to your music that your new monitors may be missing. Your new monitors may also have a shorter decay time to assist in detail retreval. This would make them more articulate, but notes may seem thinner.
> 
> Overall, I think you have 3 options. Your best option may be to trade in your studio monitors for a home stereo setup. Your 2nd option would be to add a subwoofer to your monitor setup, which I think would help. Your 3rd option would be to get a bassier monitor. I find the KRK Rokits to be nice and warm without being too far from neutral, but I've never tried your monitors, so I have no basis for comparison.


 
  
 I can't return the JBL's to Amazon because Amazon does not allow you to return items with hazerdous materials - yeah, I dont get it either. I guess Ill add a sub, can you suggest one?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> It actually would be interesting to hear from some people who moved on from the T1 and upgraded. I've personally tried a few more expensive setups, and still go back to my T1 with my HD-650's.
> 
> Guess it really depends on gear and synergy and all that. I think it's also economical to try gear that takes the same tubes.


 
  
 Agreed, I'd like to hear from them too.  Maybe make a thread called "Calling All Previous Aune T1 Users"?


----------



## Hansotek

illbetheone said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > I can't return the JBL's to Amazon because Amazon does not allow you to return items with hazerdous materials - yeah, I dont get it either. I guess Ill add a sub, can you suggest one?
> ...


----------



## Illbetheone

hansotek said:


> It's hard to say what would synergize with your setup without actually hearing it. If the Aune is your only line output interface, you might want to look for an active sub with a passive speaker output for your monitors.


 
 Something like this maybe? http://www.crutchfield.com/S-a8jlVXQfrv5/p_772S8W/Audioengine-S8-Gloss-white.html


----------



## Hansotek

illbetheone said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > It's hard to say what would synergize with your setup without actually hearing it. If the Aune is your only line output interface, you might want to look for an active sub with a passive speaker output for your monitors.
> ...




Yes, that has the correct connections.


----------



## sandab

Replaced the caps and WOW.  This made a huge difference.  Completely different sound, gone is the distortion and it now sounds slightly warm and very clean.  No shrillness in the highs, no muffled low mids.
  
 Physically, the caps are much bigger and there's not enough space for the bottom to go on again.  Instead I'll get some standoffs so it can stand flat.
  
 I put a scope to it before and after.  The difference is fairly obvious.
  
 Here's 1kHz on the headphone output (R=220ohm), before and after.  Note the non-harmonic distortion at 3x and 6x and how clean it has become after.
  
  
  
 Here's 1kHz on the RCA output, before and after.  (R=22k)  It was already fairly clean, showing the non-harmonics were produced by the headphone amp.  No huge difference.
  
  
  
  
  
 Here's 10kHz before and after, on the headphone:
  
  
  
 And finally, 200Hz before and after, on the headphone output...
  
  
  
  
 The harmonic distortion product is now universally at about -50dB.  That's 1/313th, or about 0.3%.  It now sounds slightly warm but not distorted or shrill, like a good tube driver should.  (Both tests were made with an Amperex 7308 tube.)
  
 Let's see what happens when the caps burn in.  I plan to revisit at 100 hours of use to see where it's at...
  
 Personally, I'm kinda surprised swapping out the power caps made this much difference!


----------



## ElBartoME

@sandab
  
 Thanks for the post! I always wanted to do such a measurement but my oscilloscope unfortunately doesn't have a FFT function. I would love to do this on my amp I've built.


----------



## mikoss

Nice @sandab ... I'm really looking forward to your impressions as the caps burn in as well. I found the change in sound was fairly dramatic throughout the first 100 hours, and I was continually impressed. Keep us up to date!


----------



## sandab

> Thanks for the post! I always wanted to do such a measurement but my oscilloscope unfortunately doesn't have a FFT function. I would love to do this on my amp I've built.


 
 I'm using a BitScope 325 (http://www.bitscope.com/product/BS325/); it's network attached and uses software for display.  I've actually never used it for analog work before, normally I use it with the Logic application to watch I2C and SPI traffic with microcontrollers - it will decode and do deep inspection, which greatly simplifies firmware development.  The DSO application will do a live FFT for display.  It takes some tricks and a little practice to get the most out of it though, and since this is my first analog use of it (despite owning it some six-seven years now) I'm still figuring things out...  But it's really a great little tool.


----------



## markhargrove28

Hi, new owner of T1 here.  Bought (Mk1) used on eBay and enjoying Electro Harmonix 6922EH tube that came with it.  Have AMPEREX 7308 VINTAGE GOLD PIN on order (should be here tomorrow).  My headphones are Beyer DT 880 (600 Ohm).
  
 I'm using foobar2000 on PC in WASAPI mode with FLAC and other lossless formats.  (It's amazing how much degradation I can hear even in ~220kbs MP3 files with this setup.)
  
 I'm quite happy with the sound so far.  This is the highest quality overall sound I've experienced with the detail very nice.
  
 I'm interested in the capacitor upgrades that different folks have made.  I've skimmed through this thread and seen glowing happiness.  I'm a bit reluctant to add caps that would stick out of the bottom and make the T1 unable to close, though.
  
Questions:
  
 Is there a general summary or video of the cap upgrade process?  I've found several different posts in this thread but not a concise summary of how to do this.  I did some soldering long ago but am not a HW tech guy.  I have an EE background but not hands-on experience with board building for many years.
  
 Which of the cap upgrades seem to make the most difference? (Headphone amp board coupling caps, Headphone amp board rail voltage caps, Secondary power supply caps, Main power supply caps).  I've seen some recommend just the power supply and secondary power supply caps.  Does this cover the majority of sound quality improvements and allow everything to fit in the box?
  
 I haven't opened up the unit yet to see which caps are in my unit.  Is it pretty straightforward to figure out which caps are which?
  
 Assuming my secondary power supply caps are 330uF 35V, does it make sense to replace with Silmic II 470uF 25V?  This seems odd to me.
  
 Along a different line, is there quite a bit of SQ improvement to be gained with an external amp?  I'm thinking of Asgard 2 or E09K.
  
 Thanks for all the work and time folks have put into this hobby!


----------



## Levaix

markhargrove28 said:


> Hi, new owner of T1 here.  Bought (Mk1) used on eBay and enjoying Electro Harmonix 6922EH tube that came with it.  Have AMPEREX 7308 VINTAGE GOLD PIN on order (should be here tomorrow).  My headphones are Beyer DT 880 (600 Ohm).
> 
> I'm using foobar2000 on PC in WASAPI mode with FLAC and other lossless formats.  (It's amazing how much degradation I can hear even in ~220kbs MP3 files with this setup.)
> 
> ...


 
 If you're thinking of a separate amp, the cap upgrade is probably unnecessary. It seems to affect (maybe? someone can correct me) the amp portion more than the DAC.

 Having a separate amp was a pretty substantial upgrade for me, and I'm only using 32 ohm headphones. I haven't heard either of the models you're considering, but Asgard 2 looks like it might be a good fit. If you're thinking about it, definitely take advantage of their trial period offer.

 Enjoy that 7308, that's what I'm using right now.


----------



## markhargrove28

levaix said:


> If you're thinking of a separate amp, the cap upgrade is probably unnecessary. It seems to affect (maybe? someone can correct me) the amp portion more than the DAC.
> 
> Having a separate amp was a pretty substantial upgrade for me, and I'm only using 32 ohm headphones. I haven't heard either of the models you're considering, but Asgard 2 looks like it might be a good fit. If you're thinking about it, definitely take advantage of their trial period offer.


 
 thanks for the feedback.


----------



## zoneykid

markhargrove28 said:


> thanks for the feedback.


 
  
 I'd like to add that doing the cap upgrade is really easy, if you go back through the thread there are pictures of what caps need to be replaced and the soldering on those is very easy.
  
 The only advice I'd like to give if you're going to do it though is remember to take off the volume knob first, there's a small hole on it which has a flathead screw, otherwise the board won't come out of the enclosure. (It's something I had an issue with for a little bit )


----------



## markhargrove28

zoneykid said:


> I'd like to add that doing the cap upgrade is really easy, if you go back through the thread there are pictures of what caps need to be replaced and the soldering on those is very easy.
> 
> The only advice I'd like to give if you're going to do it though is remember to take off the volume knob first, there's a small hole on it which has a flathead screw, otherwise the board won't come out of the enclosure. (It's something I had an issue with for a little bit )


 
 Thanks for the hint.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

That nut on the potentiometer (volume control) can actually be removed with your fingers, from the factory it is not that tight.  I found the best way to pop that top cover off is to remove the tube and use a small flat head screwdriver in the tube's hole and gently pop it up (try to stay clear of the socket).  It should come right off if you have removed the volume knob.


----------



## markhargrove28

ncsuzoso said:


> That nut on the potentiometer (volume control) can actually be removed with your fingers, from the factory it is not that tight.  I found the best way to pop that top cover off is to remove the tube and use a small flat head screwdriver in the tube's hole and gently pop it up (try to stay clear of the socket).  It should come right off if you have removed the volume knob.


 
 Good information.  My thought was to go through the bottom to get at the circuit board.
  
 Did you replace the caps with the same capacitance as the original components on your board?


----------



## hk1388

Thanks for everyone who helped with my issue with the Voskhod tube. Turned out to be bad tubes. 3 of 4 tubes were bad.
 
 
Out of curiosity, how many people are using the T1 with IEMs? I listened with the Phonak PFE 022 (Grey Filters) and they sound amazing.


----------



## ElBartoME

sandab said:


> I'm using a BitScope 325 (http://www.bitscope.com/product/BS325/); it's network attached and uses software for display.  I've actually never used it for analog work before, normally I use it with the Logic application to watch I2C and SPI traffic with microcontrollers - it will decode and do deep inspection, which greatly simplifies firmware development.  The DSO application will do a live FFT for display.  It takes some tricks and a little practice to get the most out of it though, and since this is my first analog use of it (despite owning it some six-seven years now) I'm still figuring things out...  But it's really a great little tool.


 
  
 Looks really nice. Unfortunately the price is a little too steep for me right now. But I have oscilloscopes at work that can do stuff like that and more, so maybe I will do some measurements at work.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

markhargrove28 said:


> Good information.  My thought was to go through the bottom to get at the circuit board.
> 
> Did you replace the caps with the same capacitance as the original components on your board?


 
  
 You will need both the top and bottom off.  You are going to desolder from the top of the Aune T1 (the bottom of the PCB).  The issue is how fast solder turns back to a solid, so you will want to be giving a little pressure from the bottom of the T1 (the top of the PCB) pulling away from the PCB.  If you do not have a desoldering iron this can be a little difficult. 
  
 I did replace caps with the same stock values.


----------



## sandab

ncsuzoso said:


> I found the best way to pop that top cover off is to remove the tube and use a small flat head screwdriver in the tube's hole and gently pop it up (try to stay clear of the socket).  It should come right off if you have removed the volume knob.


 
 It can also be pushed off from the bottom side at the corners.  I used the eraser end of a pencil at two corners.


----------



## milan616

Does anyone have problems trying to get 24 bit options to show up in Windows 8.1 on their T1? For the life of me I can't get it to work. The device only offers two options for output, 16 bit 32-96kHz and 32 bit 44.1-96kHz. Obviously neither the DAC or the USB chip on the T1 support 32 bit, so none of those options do anything. I've also tried WASAPI in Foobar with 24 bit mode and unsurprisingly it reports the hardware doesn't support any of the 24/96 tracks I have.


----------



## hdtv00

I have all options in my setup 8.1 fully updated. I also use WASAPI 24 bit and it plays 24/96 no issues at all. Try a different USB port or something.


----------



## milan616

Tried different USB ports, tried uninstalling/reinstalling, no 24 bit option anywhere.
  
 http://imgur.com/a/NZpc8
  
 Edit: Just tried it on my Windows 8.1 laptop and same thing! Charging up the girlfriend's Win 7 laptop to see if it ends up any different there....
 Edit 2: ...and on her Win 7 laptop it only shows 16 bit 32-96kHz. This is pretty damn weird.


----------



## copajohn

ncsuzoso said:


> You will need both the top and bottom off.  You are going to desolder from the top of the Aune T1 (the bottom of the PCB).  The issue is how fast solder turns back to a solid, so you will want to be giving a little pressure from the bottom of the T1 (the top of the PCB) pulling away from the PCB.  If you do not have a desoldering iron this can be a little difficult.
> 
> I did replace caps with the same stock values.


 
 I just completed the cap upgrade on my little Aune T1.  I did all four sets of the caps.  Little is an overstatement.  Tiny is more like it.  Have the replacement caps out of the bottom of the box; will need to figure a new way to cover the bottom but... it still works.  Gonna take some burn in; with my Grado RS1's, it is a little bright.  But, it does sound pretty darn awesome.  Putting boards back in the box needs two small hands that don't shake as much as mine but I still have some skills (used to be a pinball/video game tech along time ago in a land far, far away).  The biggest problem I came across is that the brass supports on the little board were stuck and the screws were so crappy, they immediately self destructed when trying to remove them.  Finally grabbed the head of the screws with my nippers and with the use of a nut driver, removed them from the posts.  Thank you for the persons involved in doing this hack.  I think I'm gonna like the results in 100hrs or so...


----------



## sandab

Here's how I did it.  I found some 55mm M3x0.5 screws and 20mm M3 round nylon standoffs (would have preferred silver, steel).  Put a screw through each hole, added a standoff, then two layers of heatshrink.  The heatshrink makes the screws fit reasonably tightly in the screw guides on the main part.  Topped it off with some picture frame rubber bumpers, but I'm sure there are better feet out there.  Or you could reuse the original clear ones.
  
 My original plan was to use 20mm standoffs and 60mm screws, then screw it on properly.  But the only ones I could find were flat heads, not beveled so I went with plan B.
  
 Bottom cover, screws, heatshrink, standoffs.  (Two corners already done.)
  

  
 Screw:
  

  
 Slip on the standoff:
  

  
 First heatshrink:
  

  
 Second (heatgun for illustration only, wasn't running):
  

  
 All four corners done:
  

  
 Slip shrinkwrapped screw ends into the main enclosure:
  

  
 Bumpons:
  

  
 Final result!


----------



## NCSUZoSo

My God, with that much space I could throw mylars in there.


----------



## sandab

lol
  
 My next mod will be to replace the 2 dip gain switches with a 4PDT switch...


----------



## copajohn

sandab said:


> Here's how I did it.  I found some 55mm M3x0.5 screws and 20mm M3 round nylon standoffs (would have preferred silver, steel).  Put a screw through each hole, added a standoff, then two layers of heatshrink.  The heatshrink makes the screws fit reasonably tightly in the screw guides on the main part.  Topped it off with some picture frame rubber bumpers, but I'm sure there are better feet out there.  Or you could reuse the original clear ones.
> 
> My original plan was to use 20mm standoffs and 60mm screws, then screw it on properly.  But the only ones I could find were flat heads, not beveled so I went with plan B.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Wonderful idea!  Anyone else have a mod to show?  I'm collecting ideas...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I'm not joking about mylars, if you have that much space and you can find 100V ones or lower at the right values they should fit.


----------



## sandab

I think the main problem is fitting anything on the headphone amp board since it faces the main board.  Not much space there.
  
 One possibility is mounting all the caps on a separate prototype board just to hold them, and then run wires to the main board.
  
 I didn't look too closely, but there's a lot of surface mounted stuff on there, although this might mainly be resistors.  I think some of those could be replaced and moved off the board - the cheap stuff is often not very thermally stable (this makes up most of the accuracy rating) so when the tube heats up gains drift.  When I soldered up headphone and RCA jacks with resistors for signal measurement I checked the resistance on the plug end immediately after soldering, and it started about 2% low and crept up as it cooled off.  I could see it tick up on theFluke 179.  Another case for a separate sub-board and wires to mount points...


----------



## copajohn

Anyone need some spare parts?  R-e-a-l-l-y good deal...


----------



## copajohn

sandab said:


> Here's how I did it.  I found some 55mm M3x0.5 screws and 20mm M3 round nylon standoffs (would have preferred silver, steel).  Put a screw through each hole, added a standoff, then two layers of heatshrink.  The heatshrink makes the screws fit reasonably tightly in the screw guides on the main part.  Topped it off with some picture frame rubber bumpers, but I'm sure there are better feet out there.  Or you could reuse the original clear ones.
> 
> My original plan was to use 20mm standoffs and 60mm screws, then screw it on properly.  But the only ones I could find were flat heads, not beveled so I went with plan B.
> 
> ...


 
  
 For now, I decided to go with what you've done... changed a little of it though.  Had some nice black rubber tubing into which I placed some grabber screws.  Opened the holes in the bottom piece to allow the screws a little more room.  Works for now.  I've pretty much decided my next purchase will be the new McIntosh headphone amp but I need to win the lottery first.  Until that happens, this will just have to do...


----------



## mikoss

Love the posts with info on the cap upgrades guys... great information. 
  
  
 A quick update for anyone who enjoys the T1 and wonders if things can sound better - YES!! Haha.
  
 I've been playing around with the Woo Audio WA2 I got second hand. My chain right now is the T1 with ELNA Silmic II capacitors with an Amperex 7308 PQ White label tube -> Cardas RCA cables -> the Woo WA2 with Sylvania 7236 power tubes, cheap EZ80 rectifier tubes, and Amperex OG 6922s -> HD650 headphones.
  
 Here is what changed from listening via the headphone output on the Aune T1...
  
 - Major change of a huge improvement in soundstage (width especially, but also a bit of height). It's CRAZY how easy it is to pick everything out of the mix now. Literally unbelievable to me. Layering in instruments, vocals, synth... there is a new dimension to my songs.
 - More micro details in the background of songs... the weird thing is they're across the board; bass, mids and highs. I am crazy about picking out details as I audition different equipment, but these details are apparent even without a discerning listen. It always brings a smile to my face discovering unheard details.
 - 3d imaging is also improved. I think the things that I love about the OG tubes are even more apparent... decay and reverb are superb. Nothing is pushed in my face either... I always felt the T1 did a good job with presentation, so I'm glad it remains this way.
  
I just wanted to bring this up because the DAC in the T1 is still pushing the music through... I want the headphone amp in the T1 to be my end game, but this just proves to me that the music can go further.


----------



## milan616

Looks like one other person confirmed they don't have 24 bit output either. So there is two of us, but worse still is the three people who have non-functional power switches.


----------



## MrEleventy

Yeah, Aune is pretty bad with the quality control nowadays.


----------



## sandab

I don't have 24 bit show up for mine either, in either the MIDI Setup or Amarra in OS X.


----------



## sandab

mikoss said:


> - Major change of a huge improvement in soundstage (width especially, but also a bit of height). It's CRAZY how easy it is to pick everything out of the mix now. Literally unbelievable to me. Layering in instruments, vocals, synth... there is a new dimension to my songs.


 
 Yeah, the amp stage of the Aune T1 is clearly the weak link.  The DAC is quite competent and while I can tell a difference when feeding my Valhalla 2 vs the Bifrost Uber, it's a more subtle difference.  It's back at work now though and while it's a huge step up from the MacBook Pro headphone jack I miss the spacious, open soundstage sense of detail from the Bifrost-Valhalla2-Beyer T1...  So here I am thinking of adding an O2, or a Little Dot.  Does it ever end?!


----------



## Hixs

milan616 said:


> Looks like one other person confirmed they don't have 24 bit output either. So there is two of us, but worse still is the three people who have non-functional power switches.


 

 Mine lacks 24 bit as well running win8.
  
 Anyone have any recommendations for a European based tube seller?? (avoiding ebay) I'm after a pair of NOS rockets, and maybe a few other cheap tubes for trial rolling. Still on the Chinese tube at the minute and fancy a change.
  
 Ta.
  
 Edit - I've been considering bypassing the amp section of the t1 and using the little dot mk2 instead. Anyone done similar?


----------



## SirMarc

Hey guys,
 I've finally finished reading the whole thread, took me a week lol. Anyway, got the t1 a week ago and i like it, but have yet to be wowed. With my hd580s, recently given the once over by sennheiser, foobar with wasapi plug in, and both the eh it came with and a gold lion I'm a bit underwhelmed. Will the 7308 everyone raves about make a big difference? I listen to mostly classic rock with some newer stuff thrown in, all wavs and flaks. Any advice?


----------



## SirMarc

A little background, I used to have spectral components, a vintage thorens turntable with a sumiko tone arm and cartridge, theta transport and dac, and dahlquist dq20s. Sold most of it off years ago and got in to other things. Lately I've been missing the old good sounds but figured it would be much cheaper to go the headphone and amp route. Should I have bought a higher end dac/amp? Or could I possibly be happy if I order the 7308? Thanks guys.
Marc


----------



## SpiderNhan

sirmarc said:


> A little background, I used to have spectral components, a vintage thorens turntable with a sumiko tone arm and cartridge, theta transport and dac, and dahlquist dq20s. Sold most of it off years ago and got in to other things. Lately I've been missing the old good sounds but figured it would be much cheaper to go the headphone and amp route. Should I have bought a higher end dac/amp? Or could I possibly be happy if I order the 7308? Thanks guys.
> Marc



If you don't want to spend too much on a tube, I suggest the 1969 Holland Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8. I wasn't impressed with the stock tube either, but the OG completely blew my mind. It's hard for me to imagine how much more improvement the 7308 will provide.


----------



## SirMarc

Thanks for the reply. I can do the 50 bucks for the tube. I'm not an eBay fan and would rather get it from a reputable seller. The only reason I got the gold lion is because someone on the thread said it was good for rock and I'm a prime member and it is so easy lol. I'm also kind of bummed because I bought this primarily to do USB out on my HTC one m8 witch has around 2000 songs on it that are mostly lossless. What I didn't realize at the time was you can't turn off the boomsound feature with USB out, which is a terrible, and I really don't want to root the phone. Oh well...
Marc


----------



## SirMarc

Anybody with the m8 figure out a workaround without having to root the phone? USB audio pro maybe? Hard to find info on this, been Googling like crazy. Thanks
Marc


----------



## Levaix

sirmarc said:


> Hey guys,
> I've finally finished reading the whole thread, took me a week lol. Anyway, got the t1 a week ago and i like it, but have yet to be wowed. With my hd580s, recently given the once over by sennheiser, foobar with wasapi plug in, and both the eh it came with and a gold lion I'm a bit underwhelmed. Will the 7308 everyone raves about make a big difference? I listen to mostly classic rock with some newer stuff thrown in, all wavs and flaks. Any advice?


 


sirmarc said:


> A little background, I used to have spectral components, a vintage thorens turntable with a sumiko tone arm and cartridge, theta transport and dac, and dahlquist dq20s. Sold most of it off years ago and got in to other things. Lately I've been missing the old good sounds but figured it would be much cheaper to go the headphone and amp route. Should I have bought a higher end dac/amp? Or could I possibly be happy if I order the 7308? Thanks guys.
> Marc


 
 Just a couple thoughts floating around in my head, but have you checked the audio properties on the Aune? Make sure everything is set up correctly. This might sound stupid, but you are using it with the USB cable and not the RCA jacks, right? (Sorry if that's condescending, but part of my job involves IT and I can't afford to trust people with technology, lol.)

 I guess my other question is, does it sound noticeably better than the headphone jack of your computer? If not, then something might be wrong in the setup. I'm not sure what you were expecting, so I can't comment on whether this should live up to your expectations. I will say that, assuming everything else is fine, it might just take some time for your ears to adjust to what's going on. I know many times if I go back to my old setup, that's when I realize how much better my new stuff is.

 EDIT: If you don't like it with the stock tube or the Genalex, you probably won't like it with a more expensive tube. I like my 7308 more than my EH 6922, but I still liked it with the 6922.


----------



## SirMarc

Everything is hooked up properly. No offense taken man, I'm an electro- mechanical tech so I feel where your coming from lol. Problems not that I don't like it per se, it sounds better than the hp out on my demon receiver. I just haven't been wowed yet, and I hoped I would. This is gonna sound weird, but even cranked up to ear bleeding levels, it sounds the way music sounds when the volume is low, but loud as hell. Can't explain it better than that. Anyone get me? Lol thanks
Marc


----------



## SirMarc

Oh, and the gold lion sounds a good amount better than the eh, just not what I was hoping for. If the 7308 is that much better than the gold lion, I think I could be happy.
Marc


----------



## Levaix

7308 is pretty nice. Very analog sounding and wide compared to the EH. I think I understand what you're aiming for, that you want a little more "thud" in your sound. I also have a thing for a more visceral, meaty sound. The way I see it, you have 3 options:

 -Get a 7308. This is more of a patch, but it should help at least a little.
 -Get a better amp to run the DAC portion through. I was surprised at the level of improvement I achieved by my newly acquired Purity Audio KICAS. Bass, separation, punch, and pure weight of sound are now vastly improved.
 -Consider switching headphones. Sennheiser just may not be your cup of tea. If I'm reading you right on what you want in the sound, you might want to consider trying some closed headphones. I've always liked Ultrasone, but their prices have skyrocketed lately. If you can find a used HFI 700 or 780 (or Alienware Ozma), it might be an interesting experiment at least.

 I definitely can relate with the sound getting louder but not bigger. I listen to my music on a much lower volume than I used to. I think on lower end setups, sometimes louder just seems better, when it might not necessarily be the case. I do think having open headphones is probably contributing at least partially, though.


----------



## SirMarc

Im actually getting decent "thud" lol, but its definitely not as big as I hoped. You hit the nail on the head with that description. I used to love these headphones on a denon 2 channel receiver from the late 80s that ran me around 1200 bucks, can't remember the model number. Also with a vintage Philips receiver that my dad gave me years ago they were awesome. Always liked the airyness of open headphones. I have a set of ath m50s that I bought for movies late at night to avoid arguments with the wife and they suck next to the hd580s. I still have the old denon in my attic. I may get it down and see. Maybe my expectations were a bit to high with the t1. Thanks man did you read my post about my old set up? Damn I wish I didn't get rid of that stuff. Still have the turntable and dq20s though...
Marc


----------



## Levaix

Maybe use the Aune as the DAC with the Denon driving the headphones? Secondary amp sounds like it might do what you want. And I can't speak for the ATH M50's, but Ultrasones are pretty spacious for closed cans. My main set are Signature Pro's.


----------



## manishex

Try increase the gain to +10, I noticed my genalex was strangely way too tame at 0 gain for my hd600/650. Try get a orange globe aswell it's much more musical than the gold lion


----------



## SirMarc

Lol, I have the gain at 16. But thanks


----------



## rwpritchett

I wonder if streaming music through Gizmo on the M8 would bypass the boomsound.


----------



## SirMarc

Tried Google play and that didn't work


----------



## NCSUZoSo

sirmarc said:


> Lol, I have the gain at 16. But thanks


 
  
 I was running gain at 16 dB+ also, but I found that 10 dB+ actually had a more natural sound and a wider dynamic.  Not sure how modded (if at all) your Aune T1 is compared to mine, but the gain setting should still have the same effect.  Of course the headphones in use make a difference, but I would just try that if I was you to see if you like it any better.  You are using WASAPI or similar to bypass the Windows audio stack correct?


----------



## SirMarc

Foobar with wasapi plug in. Hd580 300ohm headphones. 10 gain wasn't loud enough. Haven't changed the caps, wish I trusted my soldering skills enough for that lol. Gonna try the 7308 and see how it goes. For the record, it sounds really good, but I was hoping to be wowed, and that hasn't happened yet.
Marc


----------



## NCSUZoSo

BTW, I also have a nice surplus of high quality caps, from Nichicon Fine Gold (primaries) to ELNA Cerafine and ELNA SILMIC II's (the small ones fit on the amp board with only a minor bend required to clear the DAC board components directly below.  Also most of the stock caps, the ones that didn't lift a leg out during desoldering.


----------



## moriez

Hi owners,
  
 I'm looking for a quick suggestion for a warm quality tube. Right now I have a Gold Lion but would like a lusher creamier presentation. What to look at please?


----------



## Levaix

moriez said:


> Hi owners,
> 
> I'm looking for a quick suggestion for a warm quality tube. Right now I have a Gold Lion but would like a lusher creamier presentation. What to look at please?


 
 Amperex 7308 if you have the budget. Ebay is your friend if you don't.


----------



## milan616

They emailed me to say that Aune is on holiday and they'll follow up on the missing 24 bit issue as soon as possible.


----------



## zoneykid

I wanted to do some reviews of the tubes I have but so far was only able to sum up these two, I'll edit this post later with more when I have some free time.
  
*Tube Impressions
 Beyerdynamic DT990 250ohm + Aune T1*
  
*RCA 6AQ8 - Made in Holland by Amperex*
*Bass: 4.5/5* - Bass is pretty strong, though I think of it as just being more balanced. Easy to listen to
*Mids: 4.0/5* - Mids are somewhat relaxed
*Highs: 4.7/5* - Highs are very clear though they can be somewhat sharp sometimes, other than that pretty great.
*Soundstage: 4.3/5 *- I feel like the overall soundstage is narrower than my GE 6AQ8 which is a bit of a disappointment, though it's still plenty.
*Overall: 4.7/5* - My tube of preference currently, the sound for me matches the best with my DT990s, presenting the highs in such a way that makes them sound absolutely killer, and I feel like the sharpness of the highs comes more from the mixing of the song itself rather than the headphones/tube, the bass is well presented and sounds somewhat full, could use a tad more punch but good overall, with the mids lacking much comment aside from they sound good.
 Good genres: Pretty much everything, I've yet to hear something that doesn't sound good on this tube.
  
*Mazda ECC189 - Made in France*
*Bass: 4.5/5 *- Bass is well presented with a tight punchy sound
*Mids: 4.0/5 *- Mids are... weird, it sounds like they're very recessed but they're not, which I suspect comes from the bass and highs being distracting to the point of me not really being able to pay attention to the mids.
*Highs: 4.5/5* - Highs are well represented and they seem less siblant, but at the same time it feels less... fun? Once again it's hard to describe how different this tube is while still being really good.
*Soundstage: 4.6/5* - Soundstage on this tube to me seems equal to or maybe even better than my GE 6AQ8
*Overall: 4.5/5* - A good tube through and through, though the sound is a little bit different from what I feel used to. The bass is a lot tighter, more controlled and has more punch, though I feel like it's a little bit too much control, as I prefer more of a... presence from bass aside from the punchy bits. The highs sound a little, well... lifeless, it's well represented and accurate but it seems like it's lacking any feeling. A very accurate tube in my opinion, which if you're a fan of that sound then this is probably the tube for you.
 Good genres: Rock specifically sounds really good on these, electronic can also be really good depending on your preference. Otherwise good for generally everything.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

hey guys, I'd like some opinions on Aune T1 + Grado 325is, Aless MSPro and iGrado (for listening at the office). I've already own the O2/ODAC, will the Aune be different enough to justify the new investment?


----------



## MrEleventy

milan616 said:


> They emailed me to say that Aune is on holiday and they'll follow up on the missing 24 bit issue as soon as possible.


One of two things can happen. 

Aune releases a firmware update patch...
1. And all is well.

b. And the T1 is bricked.

My money is on b.


----------



## milan616

mreleventy said:


> One of two things can happen.
> 
> Aune releases a firmware update patch...
> 1. And all is well.
> ...


 
  
 Haha, well this is the email from Henry, so hopefully we'll get replacements regardless! Option b would really suck though 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  


> Hi Milan,
> 
> We attempted to contact the vendor regarding the 24 bit playback issue! They are currently on holiday, but I will contact you again with more information as soon as we hear back from them!
> 
> ...


----------



## AznMongoose

I just received my T1 mk2, plugged it in first with the 6922EH instead of the Genalex Gold Lion to test it out. I'm not entirely sure how to describe this, but it feels like this setup neutered my DT990 250 ohms. I haven't done any a/b listening, so I can't well describe what's different, but somehow it made the 990s boring to listen to. I wasn't enjoying the music nearly as much as I used to. Has anyone else with the same setup experienced this? I'm planning to do some more listening and switch over to the Gold Lion and see how that fares.


----------



## rwpritchett

I find the Gold Lion to be similar to the stock EH6922... just a bit better all around but similar in signature. If you want to get a more "fun" tube, perhaps try an Amperex OG, Bugle Boy, 7308 or maybe one of the Siemens tubes. You can also try out a Voskhod Rocket logo tube for cheap.

Also, play around with the gain settings and see if one sounds better to your ears.


----------



## manishex

Can i use a RCA to XLR balanced cable like this http://www.adamhall.com/en/ah_Cables_ProCab_Series_REF703_-_Audio_Cable_XLR_male_to_2_x_RCA_male_3_m.html
 to connect the Aune T1 to a balanced amp, for a balanced output to something like the nuforce HA-200?


----------



## milan616

manishex said:


> Can i use a RCA to XLR balanced cable like this http://www.adamhall.com/en/ah_Cables_ProCab_Series_REF703_-_Audio_Cable_XLR_male_to_2_x_RCA_male_3_m.html
> to connect the Aune T1 to a balanced amp, for a balanced output to something like the nuforce HA-200?


 
  
 I'd look up how the HA-200's XLR input works to be sure. From my quick reading, I don't think that will work at all. The XLR input and output is for dual mono applications it seems, two amps each taking in a single channel balanced signal.


----------



## reiserFS

So all of a sudden my Aune has distorted noises and smells like a cap blew up, what gives? The QC on these things are ******* horrible.


----------



## MrEleventy

As much as I love my Aune T1.... I find it hard to recommend one to ppl due to issues cropping up. If something goes wrong in my current T1, I'd probably just go out and buy a Odac or Modi. It's a shame really because it's such a great product but schiit QC.


----------



## reiserFS

mreleventy said:


> As much as I love my Aune T1.... I find it hard to recommend one to ppl due to issues cropping up. If something goes wrong in my current T1, I'd probably just go out and buy a Odac or Modi. It's a shame really because it's such a great product but schiit QC.


 
 The noise went away after changing the tube, the smell's still in my nose though. I'm not leaving this unit alone for a while, don't want my house under fire.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Was going to recommend you change to change tubes as distorted sounds usually points to a defective/finished tube.
  
 The smell is a bit of a concern. Could still be the tube. I'd suggest opening your windows up and keeping the unit off for a few hours after which you can turn it back on and retest.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

levaix said:


> Amperex 7308 if you have the budget. Ebay is your friend if you don't.


 
  
  
 All of my tubes have come off Ebay and all of them have performed flawlessly, that is including the 5 tubes in my modded Fender Blues Jr. 
  
 You just have to find a reputable tube seller like greengirl613 (I've bought matching GE EL84's from her) or feelincolorado (bought my Siemens 6992 from him and this tube is a perfect fit).  As long as they are showing test results from something like a B&K 606 DynaJet or Hickok 6000A (these are obviously just random examples of test equipment) and they have a good reputation of selling tubes, you are completely fine.  Hell most online tube stores list their stuff on Ebay also.
  
 There is no reason to pay twice the price for the exact same tube if you can find it on Ebay that much cheaper (as long as what I said above is in place for the sale).


----------



## Levaix

ncsuzoso said:


> All of my tubes have come off Ebay and all of them have performed flawlessly, that is including the 5 tubes in my modded Fender Blues Jr.
> 
> You just have to find a reputable tube seller like greengirl613 (I've bought matching GE EL84's from her) or feelincolorado (bought my Siemens 6992 from him and this tube is a perfect fit).  As long as they are showing test results from something like a B&K 606 DynaJet or Hickok 6000A (these are obviously just random examples of test equipment) and they have a good reputation of selling tubes, you are completely fine.  Hell most online tube stores list their stuff on Ebay also.
> 
> There is no reason to pay twice the price for the exact same tube if you can find it on Ebay that much cheaper (as long as what I said above is in place for the sale).


 
 I definitely agree with that to an extent. My 7308 was off Ebay as well. But there is something to be said about going with a place that rates and tests their tubes in the way they're going to be used. My 7308 has just a liiiiittle bit of fuzz, and I always wonder whether it could have been any better. My next tube I'm going to go for a Telefunken E88CC, and unless I can find it for significantly cheaper, I'm definitely getting it through Upscale Audio.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

ncsuzoso said:


> All of my tubes have come off Ebay and all of them have performed flawlessly, that is including the 5 tubes in my modded Fender Blues Jr.
> 
> You just have to find a reputable tube seller like greengirl613 (I've bought matching GE EL84's from her) or feelincolorado (bought my Siemens 6992 from him and this tube is a perfect fit).  As long as they are showing test results from something like a B&K 606 DynaJet or Hickok 6000A (these are obviously just random examples of test equipment) and they have a good reputation of selling tubes, you are completely fine.  Hell most online tube stores list their stuff on Ebay also.
> 
> There is no reason to pay twice the price for the exact same tube if you can find it on Ebay that much cheaper (as long as what I said above is in place for the sale).


 
  
 I'd like to add an element of precision to this.
  
 Tube sellers all test tubes differently. For that reason, eBay is not necessarily (on paper, anyway) the most reliable way of getting tubes. Having said that, the tubes I've received worked perfectly.
  
 And if you think 5 tubes is a lot, it's a good thing you don't own my '71 Super Reverb! Try 9 tubes.


----------



## SirMarc

Hey, good news for HTC one m8 users out there, USB audioplayer pro bypasses the boomsound feature!!! It's expensive at almost 10 bucks, but totally worth it. On a side note, just ordered an amperex 7308 from upscale and driver grade is 65 now. I'll post back when I get it


----------



## NCSUZoSo

strat-mangler said:


> I'd like to add an element of precision to this.
> 
> Tube sellers all test tubes differently. For that reason, eBay is not necessarily (on paper, anyway) the most reliable way of getting tubes. Having said that, the tubes I've received worked perfectly.
> 
> And if you think 5 tubes is a lot, it's a good thing you don't own my '71 Super Reverb! Try 9 tubes.


 
  
 Lol, yea I am running all NOS in my Fenders Blues Jr.
  
 If you are interested you can see everything I did here: http://www.tdpri.com/forum/glowing-bottle-tube-amp-forum/439758-meet-ultimate-blues-jr-nos-tubes-g12h-billm-etc.html
  

  
 Those are all off Ebay and all perform flawlessly, especially when I changed out that 12AX7 in V1 to a 12AY7 for more clean headroom and yes that is a Celestion G12H made in England (the speaker they designed to be as close as possible to the speakers that Hendrix used)
  

  
  
 So I have bought a total of 9 tubes off Ebay from reputable tube sellers (all with test results) and not one has given me a single problem.  I agree there are sellers on Ebay that are selling tubes that do not perform how you expect, but normally those tubes are very cheap and you will notice they have no test results in the ad.
  
  
 Anyway back on topic!


----------



## sandab

They're not likely to give you problems, but when you have two channels you want matched parts, which requires measuring them.  The other problem is there are a lot of fakes out there: contemporary inexpensive tubes relabeled and sold as NOS.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

sandab said:


> They're not likely to give you problems, but when you have two channels you want matched parts, which requires measuring them.  The other problem is there are a lot of fakes out there: contemporary inexpensive tubes relabeled and sold as NOS.


 
  
  
 Well just for example my Sylvania 12AY7 ($35) has perfectly matched triodes (completely balanced)
  


> Sylvania 12AY7 w/ round "getter gray plates" (tested on a Hickock 752A, results being Triode 1 = 2000 microOhms / Triode 2 = 2000 microOhms


 
  
 Also with power tubes like the GE EL84s' 6BQ5 ($75 for pair), sometimes you actually get a "sweeter glassy" sound out of them slightly off balanced than perfectly matched like the V1-V3 slots for the preamp.
  


> NOS GE EL84's (these were both tested on a calibrated Hickok 6000A and the results were 7500 and 6800 microOhms)


 
  
 Then you have the Siemens 6992 that is in my Aune T1 ($63 tube)
  


> Tester: Calibrated and very consistent B&K 606 DynaJet where NOS 6DJ8/6922/7308 typically test 83-88...
> Tube"s test as follows...
> Tube 1 tests...88/89
> Shorts, Gas, Grid Emissions-None
> All tubes are fully tested at least twice, if not more before I list them...If I even think a tube is questionable, it will never make it to Ebay...I guarantee all tubes I sell to be as stated, and in good working order at the time of shipment...All items are sold as is, and being that I cannot test all tubes in real word situations, it is possible that a bad one gets by, even though it tested fine...That being said, if such an occurance takes place, just email me and I will do my best to remedy the situation...I have no desire to stick you with tubes that do not live up to functional expectations...Please feel free to email with questions, and thank you for looking...


 
  
  
 IMO Ebay is the one way to get high quality NOS without paying dumb amounts of money, not to mention any reputable tube seller will take returned tubes for up to 14 days, depending on the seller.  However if some people are that scared of Ebay tubes then by all means go spend an arm and leg at places like TubeMonger.


----------



## slntdth93

Does anybody have issues with audio glitching/freezing when switching application windows? i.e. I'm listening to something on WMP/foobar, then when I switch to chrome, I have a 2 second freeze on audio.
 This is also happening a lot when I'm watching a video on VLC or GOM, AC3 audio or DTS


----------



## milan616

You probably need to go into Sound Devices, Playback Devices, choose your Aune T1 and disable the DTS and Dolby Digital formats here:


----------



## NCSUZoSo

milan616 said:


> You probably need to go into Sound Devices, Playback Devices, choose your Aune T1 and disable the DTS and Dolby Digital formats here:


 
  
 I was going to tell him the exact same thing, the Aune T1 can't decode things like DTS or DolbyD.  When you uncheck those boxes your movie player should default to PCM stereo output (at least PowerDVD 14 does) even though the incoming signal will say DTS or whatever it is in, the output should say LPCM 2.0 if it is working correctly, however you may have to manually set that in your movie player by selecting stereo output instead of having it auto detect.


----------



## mikoss

sirmarc said:


> Hey, good news for HTC one m8 users out there, USB audioplayer pro bypasses the boomsound feature!!! It's expensive at almost 10 bucks, but totally worth it. On a side note, just ordered an amperex 7308 from upscale and driver grade is 65 now. I'll post back when I get it


 
 You can also just disable boomsound if you plug headphones into the HTC One M8. I really enjoy the sound from this phone and wonder what kind of amp circuit it has inside... sounds to me like a class D. I use it as my portable player when I'm on the go and really love the sound of the mids in particular... very lush sounding. Less of that metallic solid state sound and more rich/warm to my ears.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> ...
> 
> IMO Ebay is the one way to get high quality NOS without paying dumb amounts of money, not to mention any reputable tube seller will take returned tubes for up to 14 days, depending on the seller.  However if some people are that scared of Ebay tubes then by all means go spend an arm and leg at places like TubeMonger.


 
 Agreed. I buy all of my tubes from eBay.
  
 I have noticed lately that prices for 6DJ8's has become insane. Be extremely cautious about paying a crapload of money for tubes that were selling a year ago for less than half the price they're listed at now.
  
That said, I just picked up a pair of NOS Phillips SQ Holland E88CC's for around $90 US shipped. I really love the sound from these tubes and I've noticed the prices lately are ridiculous on eBay.
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/271581979865?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
  
 Search around and make sure the pictures and description match what you're looking for. If you need help, post here and someone will surely help you out.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Another thing is most rare/expensive tubes have distinct properties to determine if they are fakes.  For example Siemens is one of the brands that puts the four heat dissipation lines on the top of the tube in an X pattern.  This is something that can not be faked as it must be done during the production of the tubes.  Then you have stuff like what are the pins made out of and what type of lettering/numbering is on the inside of the tube (if at all).  I personally wouldn't buy from anyone on Ebay that doesn't offer at least a week return policy, because even if it is the correct tube as listed it could be damaged during S&H and the seller is not at fault for that (unless they packaged it very poorly).  All of my tubes from Ebay arrived here safely, but the guys/girls I was buying from are very good as packaging tubes.  I would still like to know if there is a way to determine if my Siemens 6992 is really a CCa tube, but nobody knows enough about CCa tubes to give me a definite yes or no.  It was made in Germany and the code reads "A9 E6" on the cover (I can't remember the name off the top of my head that is what I am talking about) that is silver located outside two plates with one on each side..


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> Another thing is most rare/expensive tubes have distinct properties to determine if they are fakes.  For example Siemens is one of the brands that puts the four heat dissipation lines on the top of the tube in an X pattern.  This is something that can not be faked as it must be done during the production of the tubes.  Then you have stuff like what are the pins made out of and what type of lettering/numbering is on the inside of the tube (if at all).  I personally wouldn't buy from anyone on Ebay that doesn't offer at least a week return policy, because even if it is the correct tube as listed it could be damaged during S&H and the seller is not at fault for that (unless they packaged it very poorly).  All of my tubes from Ebay arrived here safely, but the guys/girls I was buying from are very good as packaging tubes.  I would still like to know if there is a way to determine if my Siemens 6992 is really a CCa tube, but nobody knows enough about CCa tubes to give me a definite yes or no.  It was made in Germany and the code reads "A9 E6" on the cover (I can't remember the name off the top of my head that is what I am talking about) that is silver located outside two plates with one on each side..


 
 How does it sound compared to other Siemens tubes? I love the bass and extended, nuanced highs from the Siemens tubes I have, but the deal breaker for me are the mids. They seem to lack the clarity and lushness of the Amperex tubes I have.
  
 Perhaps the CCa has great bass, highs, and clear, lush mids? If so, holy grail.
  
 Also, totally agree about fakes. There are very few that I've come across on eBay, aside from the usual "shipped from Hong Kong" or "I think this tube is this even though it has no markings and none of the tell-tale signs...". I don't think it's very tough to spot the tube you're looking for on eBay, as most of the people selling them have testers and pictures.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

This is the only Siemens tube I own, so I have nothing to compare it to.  I can tell you there is no lack in the mids/presence region, I thought the tube lacked bass until I pulled out my Nichicon Fine Golds from the primaries location and put in the popular Panasonic caps (FW's I think) and I immediately had my bass back. 
  
 I have a RCA made Amperex 6992 (West Germany printed on box) which is also kind of an odd find and that is my only other Aune T1 tube, I sold my GE USAF (JAN) 6992.
  
  
 BTW, I ran across this today on Ebay: 1957 Siemens 6992 and I believe it is one of the "holy grail" Siemens tubes.  It has the highly sought after pinched waist where the spacer/shield touches the glass.  Obviously you can verify this with pictures as it is very hard to see if you have it in your hand.  However you can see the waist is pinched in the pictures and that is the first sign you found a very rare tube.


----------



## SirMarc

Mikoss, I also use the m8 as a player out of the house, of course boomsound is off lol, and it is very impressive for a phone. The problem with the m8 is if you go straight USB out, boomsound cannot be turned off and it sounds terrible with the t1. USB audio player somehow bypasses boomsound and now I can listen through the phone, which is more convenient for me than through my laptop. I compared side by side using foobar/wasapi on the laptop and my phone and they sound the same.


----------



## SirMarc

I have the t1 on my coffee table in my man cave. Its so much easier to have the phone sitting next to me on the couch to change albums and also, I like to do serious listening at night with the lights out and the laptop screen was killing me lol


----------



## slntdth93

ncsuzoso said:


> I was going to tell him the exact same thing, the Aune T1 can't decode things like DTS or DolbyD.  When you uncheck those boxes your movie player should default to PCM stereo output (at least PowerDVD 14 does) even though the incoming signal will say DTS or whatever it is in, the output should say LPCM 2.0 if it is working correctly, however you may have to manually set that in your movie player by selecting stereo output instead of having it auto detect.


 
  
  


milan616 said:


> You probably need to go into Sound Devices, Playback Devices, choose your Aune T1 and disable the DTS and Dolby Digital formats here:


 
  
 No dice, audio still freezing. If it helps, it also happens when switching youtube windows or to be honest, opening/switching between any window might glitch the audio


----------



## mikoss

I had that issue before with my T1 and I messed around with the buffers a bit to get it working without any stuttering. 
  
 Here's what I'm using for buffers at the moment, with no issues whatsoever:
  
 Foobar -> File -> Preferences -> Playback -> Output 
 I'm using WASAPI (event) SPDIF Interface (aune T1_24BIT USB DAC)
 Buffer length on that page is 1000ms
 Output data format is 24 bit
  
 then Advanced -> Playback
 Full file buffering up to 10000kb
  
 then Playback -> WASAPI
 Hardware buffer in MS - push mode: 1000
 Hardware buffer in MS - event mode: 50
 High worker process priority is checked.
  
 Maybe that will help.
  
 edit: Also, this 24bit support is an issue for me with the Aune X1. When I first got it, 24bit playback was fine... now it won't work. No idea what changed... maybe I'll try messing with it later and see if I can get 24bit to work with it. The T1 I have is working great though.


----------



## xkonfuzed

Man these new T1's have a lot of quality control issues. Everytime i scroll through this thread i see a new problem..


----------



## huharain

Anyone here had their Aune T1 usb part died? I think mine just did, cause when I started the dac, it was warming up as usual, and when I play music, nothing came out of it. So I checked device manager, and uninstalled the High Definition Audio Driver for the T1, switched off both pc and T1, and when I turned it on, "windows does not recognized new device" error code 43 appeared. Any ideas to solve this?
  
 Ive tried using the line in, and it works fine. So the amp part of the T1 is still working, just wondering bout the dac part.


----------



## mikoss

Try replacing the usb cable and try different usb slots. I've seen it happen with a bad connection on phones. Good luck.


----------



## huharain

mikoss, Changed usb port, and the drivers was installed, but still no sound. From both headphone and line out. Tried it on foobar and wasapi output, same there.


----------



## SirMarc

Got an amperex Jan white label 7308 from upscale today, now we're talking! This tube kicks ass. Good match for my HD 580's. Definitely an improvement in every way over the gold lion and eh6922, and its not even burnt in. Might order another one for a spare...


----------



## teb1013

sirmarc said:


> Got an amperex Jan white label 7308 from upscale today, now we're talking! This tube kicks ass. Good match for my HD 580's. Definitely an improvement in every way over the gold lion and eh6922, and its not even burnt in. Might order another one for a spare...




I agree. This is a great tube. Which version did you get? Driver grade was all I needed to get a big improvement over the eh6922. The Siemens E88CC IS A GOOD TUBE BUT STILL UP TO THE 7308.


----------



## SirMarc

Teb, driver grade cryo treated. Did you notice an improvement after some burn in? Seem to remember someone saying bass improves with burn in. That's my only very minor complaint, lost a bit of bass response compared to the gold lion. If not it's cool, still wipes the floor with it lol.
Marc


----------



## sandab

sirmarc said:


> Got an amperex Jan white label 7308 from upscale today, now we're talking! This tube kicks ass. Good match for my HD 580's. Definitely an improvement in every way over the gold lion and eh6922, and its not even burnt in. Might order another one for a spare...


 
 Check the box, but I'm pretty sure UA burns in all tubes they sell.  My green label 7308 is pretty nice, too.  Good choice!


----------



## SirMarc

I think you're right, it says it on the box lol. Didn't notice that. OK, so the gold lion has a bit more bass then.


----------



## milan616

According to the folks at Massdrop, Aune's response to the missing 24 bit support is apparently finalized, just waiting on their CEO's approval. That they need such a formal statement makes me think we won't get a simple firmware fix.


----------



## feanorean

Totally agree,
  
 I won't be looking any further than the 7308. I have a green label JAN. IMO I actually quite like the bass, super tight and well defined. Excellent bass resolution compared to the stock 6922 and lovely soundstage.


----------



## SirMarc

Think I'm done too. Really liking the tube. May just swap in the gold lion for some bass light albums that I have. On a side note, if anyone has Holland by the beach boys, you have to check out steamboat with this tube, its ridiculously awesome.
Marc





feanorean said:


> Totally agree,
> 
> I won't be looking any further than the 7308. I have a green label JAN. IMO I actually quite like the bass, super tight and well defined. Excellent bass resolution compared to the stock 6922 and lovely soundstage.


----------



## hdtv00

From what I understood it's not missing 24 bit support , it's more of mislabeled 24 bit support. But either way could care less if it doesn't do 24 bit /192 it's an entirely worthless upgrade and pointless product.


----------



## milan616

hdtv00 said:


> From what I understood it's not missing 24 bit support , it's more of mislabeled 24 bit support. But either way could care less if it doesn't do 24 bit /192 it's an entirely worthless upgrade and pointless product.


 
  
 Honestly, almost all of the music I play is coming from a streaming service so it's not a big deal for me either. It doesn't even say 24 bit on the front like the Mk1s do. I just want them to stand behind their product. 
  
 That 24 bit support is mislabeled though is pretty much a lie. Hopefully Massdrop doesn't take their word for it. The audio endpoint enumerates abilities at handshake time with the host, and currently the T1 isn't advertising it supports 24 bit. That's the whole point of "driverless" USB class 1 audio. The USB chip and the DAC chip should, combined together, support up to 24/96 and report that.


----------



## MrEleventy

I msg'd Koolpep, who also has a T1 MK2 from there, and asked him about how his unit is functioning. He's on a Mac but his unit doesn't show 24 bit support either. He says that he uses bit perfect to scale up the audio files to 32 bit and the T1 plays fine. Not sure how that's possible tho since the dac chipset itself can't handle it.

E: I wonder if Aune is going to post this announcement on their own front page...


----------



## milan616

They said the announcement would be ready by end of day in China, which should have been hours ago.
  
 In other news I grabbed myself a used Sylvania 7308 (in a set with a Sylvania 6922 as well) just for kicks, since Amperex's model gets all the love. Really a step up on the treble happy Gold Lion for my AD900x I think.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

It's nice to see your player put out 24 bit, but in reality you would need some of the most expensive equipment available and the highest quality audio recordings available to hear the difference in 16 bit vs 24 bit.  Even then I doubt you could hear any change.
  
 I would bet my RCA made Amperex 6992, that if you were blindfolded and had some of the highest quality audio files out there that you could not tell any difference if I could switch back and forth between 16 bit and 24 bit.
  
 Of course we all want what the product advertises, but at the end of the day 8 bits more is almost inaudible.
  
  
 I thought I would share this find on Ebay, a pair of 1962 Holland Amperex Bugle Boy ($55):
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-ECC88-BUGLE-BOY-MATCH-PAIR-6DJ8-LARGE-O-GETR-TEST-NOS-VINTAGE-1962-MINTY-/231319770024?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item35dbbb93a8
  
 It's not perfectly balanced, but it is damn close and I would bet closer than most of the tubes that are in current production.  That is insanely cheap, but the test results don't lie and I got my Siemens 6992 from the same seller.


----------



## sandab

A lot of CD audio has the bulk of the sound at -20dB, leaving that much headroom.  20dB is just shy of 7 bits of linear dynamic range... which means it has effectively 9 bits except when the intensity requires the headroom.  And since it's an AC signal it has effectively an 8 bit signed quantity.  24 bits let's you run 16+ bit resolution at -20dB.
  
 This comes from the silliness of linear encoding, where the lowest 9dB has all of 7 values (0 being "all signals too weak to capture"), while the top 9dB has 57344 values.


----------



## milan616

They provided two documents, the first being Saviaudio's eeprom programming guide and the second being Aune's settings for programming the T1 Mk2. It seriously makes no sense considering the DAC chip used and couldn't possibly do anything more than 24 bit. However, they are claiming the Mk2 does 32 bit, automatically upconverts 24 bit and magically supports DSD!


----------



## penmarker

Maybe the guy in charge of the documentations made up the things on the spot.


----------



## milan616

The reason they waited so long to release the statement was to have the CEO sign off on it haha! It's a wonder these things worked at all.


----------



## mikoss

milan616 said:


> They provided two documents, the first being Saviaudio's eeprom programming guide and the second being Aune's settings for programming the T1 Mk2. It seriously makes no sense considering the DAC chip used and couldn't possibly do anything more than 24 bit. However, they are claiming the Mk2 does 32 bit, automatically upconverts 24 bit and magically supports DSD!


 
 This sounds to me like perhaps they confused the T1 mk2 with the X1 pro, which supports DSD?
  
 I'm very surprised that the T1 mk2 isn't able to play 24bit 96kHz, which the mk1 does just fine...
  
 Either way, I am also in agreement about 16 vs 24 bit files. I personally hear differences between vinyl and cd, but the cost of having a high quality vinyl rig can be astronomical compared to just buying a decent DAC, amp and headphones. The differences are also most likely imperfections caused by vinyl which can apparently sound really damn nice. (kind of like people who enjoy listening to tube amps vs solid state amps... I really love the tube sound)


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I know I already showed this, but can anyone figure out why these are so cheap?
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-ECC88-BUGLE-BOY-MATCH-PAIR-6DJ8-LARGE-O-GETR-TEST-NOS-VINTAGE-1962-MINTY-/231319770024?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item35dbbb93a8
  
 You do not find Amperex ECC88 Bugle Boys in a pair for less than $60, that isn't the normal sell rate.  I won't feel bad if someone grabs them, I am just curious and I contacted the seller.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Haha someone just bought it literally in front of me making an offer.


----------



## SirMarc

As an experiment, I dug out the receiver that I had when I bought these hd580's years ago. Its an early 90's denon dra-835r, paid about a g for it if I remember correctly. Anyway, I remember being blown away by the sound with the senns. Long story short, I hooked it up to the t1 and holy **** man!!! No eq needed and the soundstage got huge. This is my new set up, just have to figure out where I'm gonna put it, its huge lol


----------



## Levaix

Yeah, 7308 with a solid amp is a potent combo.  My setup is just a little dark now, so when I get an incoming check I'm going to try a good Telefunken next.


----------



## Charliemotta

I just won this. Best tube I had prior to this is a Gold Lion....
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/111441757619?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## NCSUZoSo

That looks like probably a RCA made Amperex or they just used the wrong boxes.  For example my RCA Amperex came in a RCA box, but the tube says West Germany.  Show some close ups when it arrives, it looks like a white label which should be Holland if my memory serves me correct.
  
 I want to know who bought those Bugle Boys I linked to, it couldn't have been a large coincidence that I posted them and then someone bought them 5 minutes later haha.  I don't care that I missed them I am just curious who grabbed them up.  I would like to hear how they sound to whoever got them.


----------



## mikoss

slntdth93 said:


> Does anybody have issues with audio glitching/freezing when switching application windows? i.e. I'm listening to something on WMP/foobar, then when I switch to chrome, I have a 2 second freeze on audio.
> This is also happening a lot when I'm watching a video on VLC or GOM, AC3 audio or DTS


 
  
 Did you get this issue fixed? I hope so... there is no reason for the T1 to stutter.
  
  
 Quote:


huharain said:


> Anyone here had their Aune T1 usb part died? I think mine just did, cause when I started the dac, it was warming up as usual, and when I play music, nothing came out of it. So I checked device manager, and uninstalled the High Definition Audio Driver for the T1, switched off both pc and T1, and when I turned it on, "windows does not recognized new device" error code 43 appeared. Any ideas to solve this?
> 
> Ive tried using the line in, and it works fine. So the amp part of the T1 is still working, just wondering bout the dac part.


 
  
 Did you get a chance to try a different USB cable? I really hope your usb receiver/DAC aren't dead.
  
  
  
 Also, @sandab how many hours do you have on your upgraded caps? I am STILL hearing incredible new micro-detail, and the soundstage is still very, very slightly expanding. I am beyond impressed. I think I have over 150 hours now on mine.


----------



## huharain

@mikoss tried that also, different pc also(a laptop running windows 8, usb is working perfectly) also didnt work, so ive sent the t1 to the seller for RMA, now waiting for his response on thr condition of the t1. Im hoping for that too, or atleast getting a replacement.


----------



## milan616

If anyone else has anecdotes to add about their Mk2 missing 24 bit support please add them on the Massdrop thread so they get passed along to Aune.


----------



## sandab

@mikoss I have about 50-60 hours on it since the mod, and I like to think the soundstage is a little wider, but I haven't listened to it with the Beyerdynamic T1s or even HD650s yet.  It's at work and I was planning to bring it home at 100 hours for a more careful listen to it, both as a standalone DAC-amp and as a DAC...


----------



## mikoss

sandab said:


> @mikoss I have about 50-60 hours on it since the mod, and I like to think the soundstage is a little wider, but I haven't listened to it with the Beyerdynamic T1s or even HD650s yet.  It's at work and I was planning to bring it home at 100 hours for a more careful listen to it, both as a standalone DAC-amp and as a DAC...


 
 I'd love to hear your review and impressions vs your other gear after 100+ hours!


----------



## misfits73

Hi guys,
  
 new member in here, first post with bad experience.
  
 I got second hand the Aune T1 in like new condition,
 plugged it in, tube after 40secs went on, listened to music
 for 20 secs and after that smoke started coming out of the case..
  
 Powered it off immediately, terrible smell in the room.
  
 Opened the case and the Lelon capacitors in the power supply had gone
 There was also electrolyte leakage on the pcb.
 No other visible damage to the unit, I think it's ok
  
 It's very easy for me to replace the caps
 but I don't know if this will happen again.
  
 The unit comes with the original Aune power supply which has the US plug
 but since I live in the UK I hooked it in my travel adapter.
  
 Any ideas?
  
 Cheers


----------



## mikoss

Is your travel adapter converting the voltage from 220 to 110v or just adapting the plug? Sounds to me like you may have put 220v onto the power transformer which doubled the power to the T1. Hopefully not.

Make sure you give it a 110v supply and at least 50 watts for your converter.


----------



## misfits73

mikoss said:


> Is your travel adapter converting the voltage from 220 to 110v or just adapting the plug? Sounds to me like you may have put 220v onto the power transformer which doubled the power to the T1. Hopefully not.
> 
> Make sure you give it a 110v supply and at least 50 watts for your converter.


 
  
 No no, just adapting the plug.
 Something like that :
  
http://www.bs1363.org.uk/assets/images/Illegal_adaptor_4.JPG


----------



## Chs177

My Aune also have US plug but power adapter support 220v.
 Please look on your power adapter and find out voltage that it have.


----------



## misfits73

It's the Aune T1-1504 230V AC input with 2 blades, with no ground.
 The adapter just adapts the plug to the UK wall socket and its earth prong is copper and not plastic


----------



## Chs177

It should work with your travel adapter.
 What tube was in Aune?


----------



## misfits73

chs177 said:


> It should work with your travel adapter.
> What tube was in Aune?


 

 6922EH Electro-Harmonix.
  
 The guy I got it from said it was working fine and yes it doesn't look
 like it's been opened before, it's brand new.
  
 I'm thinking of measuring the transformer's output for 15V DC, anyone knows the pin out of it?


----------



## mikoss

Looking at face of connector with all pins on the bottom and arrow at the top, far left and far right I measure 35V AC. Either far pin to the very middle bottom pin I measure 17V AC.


----------



## penmarker

I don't mean to curse, but **** man these things are getting ****tier. Is the QC sleeping. Mine runs well aside from the channel imbalance from the DAC portion. Others who buy the earlier batches have no major problems too.


----------



## xkonfuzed

How do I take apart the t1?


----------



## MrEleventy

xkonfuzed said:


> How do I take apart the t1?


Remove the rubber feet on the bottom and unscrew the 4 screws. It should come apart easily after that.


----------



## milan616

I'm not sure what Chinese holidays Aune observes, but it seems like every other week since the missing 24 bit support discovery they go away for a week at a time. And they take a week to make a single statement. Mine is still working great for me, but the company is pretty ridiculous.


----------



## MrEleventy

It's Mid Autumn Festival aka Harvest Festival.

E: Not trying to diffuse their incompetence. Just informing. 

And yeah.. the Chinese and the Jews have way too many holidays. lol


----------



## xkonfuzed

mreleventy said:


> Remove the rubber feet on the bottom and unscrew the 4 screws. It should come apart easily after that.


 
 unscrewed the 4 screws (and the one on the back, in the middle of the RCA in/out), but somehow i cant really take it apart. i mean, i expected the top to come off but its stuck with the whole unit. The reason i want to take it apart is because i was doing the colored LED mod and accidentally dropped the tiny piece of paper inside the unit lol. Do you think that would affect it?


----------



## MrEleventy

xkonfuzed said:


> unscrewed the 4 screws (and the one on the back, in the middle of the RCA in/out), but somehow i cant really take it apart. i mean, i expected the top to come off but its stuck with the whole unit. The reason i want to take it apart is because i was doing the colored LED mod and accidentally dropped the tiny piece of paper inside the unit lol. Do you think that would affect it?


Do you mean the top lid? Taking the top lid off requires removing the volume knob and unscrewing the hex nut that's holding the lid to the pot.


----------



## xkonfuzed

mreleventy said:


> Do you mean the top lid? Taking the top lid off requires removing the volume knob and unscrewing the hex nut that's holding the lid to the pot.


 
 got it. thanks


----------



## bassboysam

Sorry if this has been discussed before, but I just got my T1 and every time i turn it on, my Windows volume gets set to 50%.  I can turn it back up to 100% but I'm curious as to why the volume changes when the T1 is turned on?


----------



## lysdexic

Hi guys,
  
 Spent a bit of time using the search, couldn't find an answer to my question - apologies if this has been addressed already.
  
  
 I'm using the T1 via USB with a 2012 Macbook Pro running osx 10.8.5.
  
 While plugged in it constantly forces the native volume control up to 100% leaving this image displayed on the screen:
  
  
http://www.osx-e.com/screenshots/osxvolumepreview.jpg
  
  
 Driving me insane. Anyone else experienced this and knows how to fix it?
  
 Many thanks!
 lys.//


----------



## NCSUZoSo

bassboysam said:


> Sorry if this has been discussed before, but I just got my T1 and every time i turn it on, my Windows volume gets set to 50%.  I can turn it back up to 100% but I'm curious as to why the volume changes when the T1 is turned on?


 
  
 That is not an Aune T1 specific issue, I get the same glitch with my ZXR.  You have to manually drag it past 50% sometimes to get it to allow you past 50%, it is a Windows issue.


----------



## bassboysam

I updated my drivers and it is no longer an issue...


----------



## misfits73

mikoss said:


> Looking at face of connector with all pins on the bottom and arrow at the top, far left and far right I measure 35V AC. Either far pin to the very middle bottom pin I measure 17V AC.


 

 I measure 35V AC between left and right pins but with the middle one I measure 5.3V AC..


----------



## misfits73

Bloody things, I found the problem
  
 I opened the power supply, mains and neutral were joined ok but not the earth wires...
 I think it was from the factory because I had to tear the coils insulation in order to find the wires.
  
 I joined them temporary and now I have 18V in the middle point
  
 I changed the caps, voltage regulators now are ok, but the tube is gone.
  
 I'll post some photos later


----------



## Strat-Mangler

penmarker said:


> I don't mean to curse, but **** man these things are getting ****tier. Is the QC sleeping. Mine runs well aside from the channel imbalance from the DAC portion. Others who buy the earlier batches have no major problems too.


 
  
 Have you checked your wires? Have you replaced the tube?


----------



## mikoss

lysdexic said:


> I'm using the T1 via USB with a 2012 Macbook Pro running osx 10.8.5.
> 
> While plugged in it constantly forces the native volume control up to 100% leaving this image displayed on the screen:
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hrmm... so does the volume icon remain on your screen the entire time the T1 is connected to your usb port?
  
 I've used mine on a Macbook Air no problem at all, but I'm pretty sure the system volume control is locked at 100% while I'm using it. (which isn't a problem since the icon isn't constantly on the screen for me).
  
 I take it that you tried going into apple icon->system preferences->sound and have selected the output device as the T1?
 Maybe also try checking Application folder->utilities folder->Audio & Midi setup where you can select the T1 and change the format/volume settings...
  
  
 Try playing around there... I don't have a Mac with me so I can't really test around myself, let me know if something works!


----------



## mikoss

If anyone has a T1 for sale or knows someone who wants to sell theres... give me a PM. I wrecked mine (burnt up one of the transistors on it by accident) and would rather stick with this DAC then trying to find one that sounds as good. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
 Using my X1 for now... just have about 80 hours on it but hopefully it gets better with time. It has a wider soundstage than the T1, but sounds more metallic, less clear, and less romantic overall.


----------



## MrEleventy

Ouch, best of luck with the search.  I'll most likely be keeping mine around for quite a while.


----------



## penmarker

strat-mangler said:


> Have you checked your wires? Have you replaced the tube?


Sorry to disappoint. I've tried everything imaginable so what's left is changing the balance in windows audio settings. But hey, it works


----------



## chawya22

lysdexic said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Spent a bit of time using the search, couldn't find an answer to my question - apologies if this has been addressed already.
> 
> ...


 
 What is your source application?


----------



## Strat-Mangler

mikoss said:


> If anyone has a T1 for sale or knows someone who wants to sell theres... give me a PM. I wrecked mine (burnt up one of the transistors on it by accident) and would rather stick with this DAC then trying to find one that sounds as good.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Holy crap!!!!!!!!!!!
  
 Mike, I am *so* bloody sorry! I'm partly to blame for this.


----------



## mikoss

strat-mangler said:


> Holy crap!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Mike, I am *so* bloody sorry! I'm partly to blame for this.




Lol no worries... I had actually re-soldered all the caps nicely into the case, but made the mistake of setting it down onto one of the tiny screws while I was testing it out. Anyway I'm sure I'll find another and I'll be recapping it as well. The transistor has a flash mark on the top and looks like it shorted or something, so I just unplugged it when it smoked. Don't really want to power it back up as I'm sure it's done... Oh well! I'll let you know when I get another.


----------



## milan616

Well it seems like forever in arguing, but it looks like Aune has finally realized they made a mistake. Got this email from Massdrop just now.
  


> Hi Milan,
> Aune told me that for future T1 MkII, they will be tweaking the hardware set up so that it will show up natively as 24bit device.
> 
> If you prefer this revised set up instead of the default set up from the initial batch of the T1 MkII, we can coordinate the replacement for you.
> ...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> Lol no worries... I had actually re-soldered all the caps nicely into the case, but made the mistake of setting it down onto one of the tiny screws while I was testing it out. Anyway I'm sure I'll find another and I'll be recapping it as well. The transistor has a flash mark on the top and looks like it shorted or something, so I just unplugged it when it smoked. Don't really want to power it back up as I'm sure it's done... Oh well! I'll let you know when I get another.


 
  
 Well if you want more caps, I'll give them to you at a good deal


----------



## lysdexic

mikoss said:


> Hrmm... so does the volume icon remain on your screen the entire time the T1 is connected to your usb port?
> 
> I've used mine on a Macbook Air no problem at all, but I'm pretty sure the system volume control is locked at 100% while I'm using it. (which isn't a problem since the icon isn't constantly on the screen for me).
> 
> ...


 
  
 Yes, done all this!
  
  


chawya22 said:


> What is your source application?


 
  
 OSX 10.8.5
  
  
 This icon cannot be removed in system prefs. See here: http://www.mac-forums.com/forums/os-x-operating-system/229619-removing-volume-icon-during-presentation.html
  
  
  
 The issue is that the Aune T1 is pushing the system volume constantly up to 100%. If I drag the system volume slider or push the button for volume down the T1 pushes it back up.
  
 This is infuriating.
  
 Am I the only person to experience this? Pls let me know!


----------



## chawya22

lysdexic said:


> Yes, done all this!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 By source, I meant, what software do you use as your audio player? I use Audirvana + and OS X Mavericks 10.9.4. Since I don't use Mountain Lion, I might not be able to replicate exactly what you see, but I don't think audio would be handled that differently. Depending on your audio app software settings, you should be able to select what output is being ported to the Aune T1. When using Mavericks and Audirvana +, the volume control automatically goes to maximum in the audio app but the system volume (your example) is unaffected. If you're using iTunes, and have the Aune T1 selected in the OS X sound system settings as your output device, then the OS volume control will go to maximum because the system assumes you'll be controlling the volume using the Aune T1. I don't think there is a workaround for this and what you see is normal. I hope this helps. Good Luck!


----------



## huharain

@mikoss Sorry that Ive not replied to your mention for a long time, Ive sent the DAC to the seller, and they replied that it is indeed not working(problem is the same that Ive experienced. So now waiting for reply from Aune themselves, RMA-ing the unit.


----------



## xkonfuzed

Just got myself an Amperex 7308 tube, should be interesting to see the improvement it has over the stock tube 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 . On a side note, Upscale Audio's shipping charges are absurd


----------



## Charliemotta

Just got these for $30 on a whim without knowing anything about them..I guess they are better than Green Hornets...we will see..... ♫♫
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/321460085885?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## Kevin Chan

Do you know if this Aune T1 can pair with iBasso DX100 DAP?
I am looking for a warmer sound and prefer to use additional tube amp.


----------



## MrEleventy

kevin chan said:


> Do you know if this Aune T1 can pair with iBasso DX100 DAP?
> I am looking for a warmer sound and prefer to use additional tube amp.


It can but it's not a tube amp. it's a tube dac w/ ss amp


----------



## Kevin Chan

That's too bad as I won't get the warmer sound that I'm looking for if without the tube amp.


----------



## KepinCemit

Hi all,
  
 first time poster in this thread, been lurking for a while.
  
 Been using my T1 with stock usb cable from my pc with Corsair SP2500 speakers.
  
 So after using my T1 for a year, I decided to test some tube rolling from the stock EH 6922.
  
 Bought Amperex Bugle Boy from some random seller in ebay  (http://www.ebay.com/itm/251612751013)
  
 They arrived a couple of days ago. Sounded wider / more airy / more open in the highs / but lacking in the bass compared to stock EH 6922 to my ears.
  
 Maybe I'm just too used to stock sound, but kinda feel like I need moar bass, I like the wider soundstage and all, but need more oomph from the bass (I guess I am a basshead, just didnt realize it, lol)
  
 Not saying the bugle boy is inferior, just different sound sig from stock, more detailed, etc.
  
 So I spend today browsing this thread / google / ebay, trying to find which tube to get next. Almost pulled the trigger on Genalex, but finally decided to get the more expensive Amperex 7308 from upscaleaudio.com.
  
 Have any of you tried this Amperex 7308 ? How does it sound ?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Those are known to be great tubes, the Holland made Amperex Bugle Boys.  You did pay a little extra for a "matched" pair, but that is still a good price. 
  
 The Bugle Boys you may be thinking of though are the 6992 (E88CC) tubes such as these:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-matched-1966-Heerlen-Amperex-Bugle-Boy-6DJ8-ECC88-tubes-Top-O-Getter-Gray-P-/361049107421?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5410342bdd
  
 Those are the ones that go for the same price as 1960's Siemens 6992 tubes that are made in Germany (possible CCa candidates)
  
 However I am sure those sound MUCH better than the stock tube, I actually have no doubt about that, lol.  If you want tubes with a different signature look at GE Smokies or a more defined tube is like mine (Siemens 6992), however a tube like mine lacks the bass that yours have, this can be an advantage if your headphones are bass heavy.


----------



## meowmix4jo

Just bought a T1 from someone on here a few days ago. Trying to get my hands on as many tubes as I can right now without spending too much. So far I've tried OG Amperex 6DJ8, EH 6922, German GE ECC86. My favorite so far though is one I haven't seen mentioned at all, OG Amperex 6BQ7A. It was only $4 shipped too.


----------



## SpiderNhan

meowmix4jo said:


> Just bought a T1 from someone on here a few days ago. Trying to get my hands on as many tubes as I can right now without spending too much. So far I've tried OG Amperex 6DJ8, EH 6922, German GE ECC86. My favorite so far though is one *I haven't seen mentioned at all, OG Amperex 6BQ7A*. It was only $4 shipped too.


 
 That's not one of the tubes I see on the T1's compatibility list. You can confirm that it works without any problems?


----------



## meowmix4jo

spidernhan said:


> That's not one of the tubes I see on the T1's compatibility list. You can confirm that it works without any problems?


 
  
 It's on lwrs10's 100% compatibility list which is why I bought it.
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4200#post_10162534
  
 Only used it around 10 hours so far but works perfect so far.


----------



## SpiderNhan

meowmix4jo said:


> It's on lwrs10's 100% compatibility list which is why I bought it.
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4200#post_10162534
> 
> Only used it around 10 hours so far but works perfect so far.


 
 Thanks. I have the Amperex OG 6DJ8 and you think the 6BQA7 sounds better? Wow. Sign me up!


----------



## meowmix4jo

spidernhan said:


> Thanks. I have the Amperex OG 6DJ8 and you think the 6BQA7 sounds better? Wow. Sign me up!


 
  
 I wouldn't say it's _better,_ it's just different. I listen to a lot of Jazz/Jazz-Pop and I definitely think it sounds better than the 6DJ8 for that, but there are things that sound better with the 6DJ8. Either way at ~$5 I'd say it's at least worth checking out which is the only reason I bought it since I'd never heard of it before.


----------



## xkonfuzed

meowmix4jo said:


> Just bought a T1 from someone on here a few days ago. Trying to get my hands on as many tubes as I can right now without spending too much. So far I've tried OG Amperex 6DJ8, EH 6922, German GE ECC86. My favorite so far though is one I haven't seen mentioned at all, OG Amperex 6BQ7A. It was only $4 shipped too.




Is this it ? >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Amperex-6BQ7A-6BZ7-Grayplates-Vacuum-Tube-Electron-Radio-Vintage-w-o-box-/221530139981?


----------



## meowmix4jo

xkonfuzed said:


> Is this it ? >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Amperex-6BQ7A-6BZ7-Grayplates-Vacuum-Tube-Electron-Radio-Vintage-w-o-box-/221530139981?


 
  
 The label on mine is slightly different, has the model number beside the logo instead of above it. Everything else including internals looks identical though.


----------



## DMax99

Aune doesn't take ECC82 /12AU7 tube does it?


----------



## meowmix4jo

dmax99 said:


> Aune doesn't take ECC82 /12AU7 tube does it?


 
  
 It will with an adapter, haven't tried it myself but lwrs10 has it listed in his post as working.
  
 To run 12au7 on 6.3v you need to short pins 4+5 and use the shorted pins + pin 9 where the heater core pins are on 6922. Pin 9 on the 6922 end will end up unused.


----------



## DMax99

meowmix4jo said:


> It will with an adapter, haven't tried it myself but lwrs10 has it listed in his post as working.
> 
> To run 12au7 on 6.3v you need to short pins 4+5 and use the shorted pins + pin 9 where the heater core pins are on 6922. Pin 9 on the 6922 end will end up unused.




So will it damage the aune if I don't use anymore adapter?


----------



## Kevin Chan

The tubes are not cheap. OMG. 
I just ordered my Aune T1 and I'm looking forward to buy another tube. 

May I know what tubes is good for HiFiMan HE400 headphones? I listen to slow music, jazz and country. 

Any links on website should I look into it to purchase NOS tubes as brand new one is too expensive.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

NOS tubes tend to be more expensive than tubes that are currently in production.
  
 My favorite tube is the Amperex OG 7308. It's relatively cheap, even when bought from reliable sources. In the end, I opted to go with a reputable eBay seller. Fantastic tube that meshes well with pretty much everything I threw at it. Details and a deep bass that is addictive.
  
 Here's a link to a great seller but you might be able to find the tube cheaper on eBay. You need "Driver Grade." No need to spring more dough for the Platinum.
  
 http://www.upscaleaudio.com/amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin/
  
 If your headphones are bass-heavy though, it might be a bit hard to tame it, at which point I'd have another suggestion for you ; Amperex Holland 6GM8 / ECC86 with Top-O. Plenty of detail but with a hole lot less bass.


----------



## Charliemotta

strat-mangler said:


> NOS tubes tend to be more expensive than tubes that are currently in production.
> 
> My favorite tube is the Amperex OG 7308. It's relatively cheap, even when bought from reliable sources. In the end, I opted to go with a reputable eBay seller. Fantastic tube that meshes well with pretty much everything I threw at it. Details and a deep bass that is addictive.
> 
> ...


 
 I have this. Is it the same thing as yours?....  *AMPEREX PQ GOLD PIN 7308 6DJ8 VACUUM TUBE TESTS STRONG 83/83 HICKOK TV-7 RARE*


----------



## sandab

Wow, UA's price for those 7308's sure has gone up!  I think I paid $45 for mine...  At that price I'd get it on ebay from one of the sellers that specialize in tubes and have plenty of positive feedback.  I might still use UA if I wanted a matched pair though, but fortunately the T1 just needs a single tube.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

I don't believe so. It says "PQ." Those are 2 different tubes, I believe. I'd suggest looking at the link I posted. There are pictures.


----------



## meowmix4jo

strat-mangler said:


> I don't believe so. It says "PQ." Those are 2 different tubes, I believe. I'd suggest looking at the link I posted. There are pictures.


 
  
 According to the link you posted it says they can be labelled PQ, USN, or JAN and has pictures of all 3, so they're probably the same.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Ah. Thanks for making me realize this. I've been wrong before. lol!


----------



## Kevin Chan

sandab said:


> Wow, UA's price for those 7308's sure has gone up!  I think I paid $45 for mine...  At that price I'd get it on ebay from one of the sellers that specialize in tubes and have plenty of positive feedback.  I might still use UA if I wanted a matched pair though, but fortunately the T1 just needs a single tube.





I googled eBay and they are more than $45 now. Too expensive. More expensive than the Aune t1 itself


----------



## mikoss

Kevin if you'd like to try an Amperex Orange Globe 6dj8 Holland GAC dimpled getter tube free to PM. The GAC's are my favourites of the Orange Globes, and I have three that I would be willing to part with if you (are anyone) is interested.
  
 They are almost as nice as the Amperex 7308's to my ears... the mids are just a touch below the rich, luscious 7308 mids, but they are very detailed and holographic sounding (to my ears).
  
 Also folks searching on ebay, I agree... the Amperex 7308s are ridiculously high in price. I suggest searching for Philips E88CC as these are the same/very similar tubes. Make sure they have the creased tops and delta date codes.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Hey Mike.
  
 Did you manage to find another T1, yet?


----------



## mikoss

No not yet 

Looks like I toasted the 79M15G transistor... Check it out:


----------



## mikoss

Oh, but I have burnt in the Aune X1 and I will post a review of it. In short, it sounds very good. Not as airy/open as the T1, but still has a lot of sparkle.

Sacd's also sound AMAZING on it. Seriously, very, very good. I am very impressed playing dsf and dff files.

Bigger soundstage as well, by quite a large margin, but missing the beautiful sound characteristics of the tubes the T1 can roll.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Do you know what caused that transistor to burn like this? I'm assuming it had to do with all the caps being so tight in the T1's body?


----------



## mikoss

I was testing it out powered up, outside of the case and accidentally set it down on one of the case screws, which shorted that transistor (or voltage regulator, or whatever it is) out. Doh!

Should have cleared the screws away before I powered it up to test it.


----------



## hafilaphagus

Alright guys I need your help. So I have a crazy static that comes from my Aune t1. It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does it drives me crazy. I have tried different headphones, different USB ports and nothing. Touching the casing of the aune or my headphone wires either makes it go away or makes it louder. Really makes me sad cause I got the unit in February after hearing about how good of a starting tube amp/dac it is.
Electrical issue is what i'm guessing?


----------



## sandab

mikoss said:


> No not yet
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Congrats, you fried a 15V voltage regulator.   Easy replacement.  Anyone who ever builds anything shorts a regulator at some point...  A replacement should only cost a few dollars.


----------



## sandab

hafilaphagus said:


> Alright guys I need your help. So I have a crazy static that comes from my Aune t1. It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does it drives me crazy.


 
 If it's a raspy loud buzz it's probably from a GSM phone.  They pulse the transmitter at 217Hz.


----------



## mikoss

Hmm wonder if it's worth trying to replace that voltage reg or if it took something else out with it... I'll look around tomorrow for a replacement but it's a pain trying to get parts in Canada. I'll keep you guys informed either way...


----------



## sandab

It's unlikely anything else got destroyed, but not impossible of course...  It would either be a chip like an opamp (if you shorted the rail by shorting the chip) or possibly the corresponding 7815 for the +15V.  But it's unlikely as an opamp or the DAC would go up in smoke before the regulator.  79 series are negative voltage, so a 7915 is -15V.  I'd get both a matching 7815 and 7915 (TO-252 package it looks like) at the same time.  They're under a dollar each from DigiKey.   Any electronics supplier should have them as 78 and 79 series linear regulators are completely and totally ubiquitous.  The 79M15 is rated to 500mA and costs about $.41 in single quantities.  For $.81 you can get a 7915 which will do up to 1A before going nonlinear (voltage drop and overheating).  The only annoyance is TO-252 is a surface mount package.  Don't get the 79L15 as it's only rated to 100mA.  In the early 80s (I got my EE degree in 84) we used these to produce RS-232 voltages, before those handy MAX232's showed up.   My bank PIN code was 1488 for a number of years, any EE of that era will get this.


----------



## sandab

Oops.  Double posted.


----------



## SirMarc

Downloaded a couple of 24/88200 albums from hdtracks and I hear what sounds like little pops/skips every now and then. Also have some 24/96 files that play perfect. Using USB audio player pro for android. Anyone notice this issue? Not sure if its the Aune or the player. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Marc


----------



## SirMarc

Could it be a buffering issue? The player allows you to change buffer sizes. Never had to mess with these before, so kind of in the dark here. Thanks
Marc


----------



## SirMarc

OK, so I increase the buffer size from 100ms to 200ms and it doesn't do it anymore. Is there an optimal buffer size I should use? Thanks
Marc


----------



## Vanquished

sirmarc said:


> Downloaded a couple of 24/88200 albums from hdtracks and I hear what sounds like little pops/skips every now and then. Also have some 24/96 files that play perfect. Using USB audio player pro for android. Anyone notice this issue? Not sure if its the Aune or the player. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
> Marc


 
 My Aune doesn't play 24/88 (I have to resample in foobar).


----------



## SirMarc

Maybe USB audio pro upsamples it to 96? It shows the aune at 96, and the file in red at 88.2. Don't know, but increasing the buffer size from 100ms to 200ms seems to have fixed it. On a side note for whoever has an android phone with a ton of music on it, get an otg cable and use the phone. I find it way more convenient than using the laptop for kicking back on the couch for serious listening. Most newer android phones can use a 128 gig card, so you can get plenty of flacs on there.


----------



## Charliemotta

sirmarc said:


> Maybe USB audio pro upsamples it to 96? It shows the aune at 96, and the file in red at 88.2. Don't know, but increasing the buffer size from 100ms to 200ms seems to have fixed it. On a side note for whoever has an android phone with a ton of music on it, get an otg cable and use the phone. I find it way more convenient than using the laptop for kicking back on the couch for serious listening. Most newer android phones can use a 128 gig card, so you can get plenty of flacs on there.


 
 Or you can use your Clip Zip to do the same thing.....♫♫


----------



## mikoss

Thanks for the tips sandab. I managed to desolder and pull the old regulator chip today. There's an electronics shop here open Monday to get a replacement. Should be interesting to see if I can replace it... It's a pretty tight job. Wish me luck


----------



## Kevin Chan

mikoss said:


> Thanks for the tips sandab. I managed to desolder and pull the old regulator chip today. There's an electronics shop here open Monday to get a replacement. Should be interesting to see if I can replace it... It's a pretty tight job. Wish me luck


 

 I wish you luck! Monday my Aune T1 will be in my hands!


----------



## xkonfuzed

sirmarc said:


> Maybe USB audio pro upsamples it to 96? It shows the aune at 96, and the file in red at 88.2. Don't know, but increasing the buffer size from 100ms to 200ms seems to have fixed it. On a side note for whoever has an android phone with a ton of music on it, get an otg cable and use the phone. I find it way more convenient than using the laptop for kicking back on the couch for serious listening. Most newer android phones can use a 128 gig card, so you can get plenty of flacs on there.




You can do that with an android phone?! I thought only DACs of iDevices could be bypassed. Will this work on any USB DAC?


----------



## SirMarc

Yes sir! There's an app called USB audio player pro, think its 10 bucks, but worth it, that does bit perfect streaming to a dac. Most newer androids are plug and play, but the HTC one m8 needs this app to bypass boomsound.


----------



## hafilaphagus

Fixed the static. Both bad usb cord and outlet. I was really worried.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

Here's something interesting and sort of related to the T1.
  
 My Olimex USB Isolator started to emit a LOT of smoke when I turned on the T1!!!!
  
 I even shot of video of it. Right before I turned it off. I'll need to RMA it but I'm wondering if ;
  
 1) It'd be worth it considering Olimex is in Europe.
 2) If they'd even bother to honor a warranty on a small product like this.
  
 It costs roughly 60$ and fixed the issue I was having previously. Sure hope they're not all like this.


----------



## mikoss

Anyone looking for some NOS Philips SQ E88CC Holland gold pins?
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/271614514188
  
 Here is a matched pair at a good price.


----------



## xkonfuzed

mikoss said:


> Anyone looking for some NOS Philips SQ E88CC Holland gold pins?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/271614514188
> 
> Here is a matched pair at a good price.




Is $87 a good price ?


----------



## bassboysam

Can anyone comment on this tube?
  
 http://www.thetubestore.com/JAN-Philips-6922-Low-Noise


----------



## mikoss

Sure can. The JAN was one of my favorites before I tried the Amperex and Siemens tubes. Great imaging and layering of music. Nice soundstage and definitely better to me overall than the EH, Sovtek, and Gold Lion.

Not as thrilling for vocals or Mids as the more expensive tubes, but definitely a buy if you grab it below $15/tube.


----------



## Charliemotta

mikoss said:


> Sure can. The JAN was one of my favorites before I tried the Amperex and Siemens tubes. Great imaging and layering of music. Nice soundstage and definitely better to me overall than the EH, Sovtek, and Gold Lion.
> 
> Not as thrilling for vocals or Mids as the more expensive tubes, but definitely a buy if you grab it below $15/tube.


 
 One of my 1st tubes i bought ..Very good tube, still use it but I paid $15 which is high but is was NOS and great condition of course.
  
 Charlie   ♫♫


----------



## Kevin Chan

Hello!
 My Aune T1 just arrived not long ago.....
 How many hours should I break-in this Aune T1?


----------



## bassboysam

Thanks for the impressions on the JAN tube. What about this Russian tube?
http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/6H23n-EB-6922


----------



## NCSUZoSo

hafilaphagus said:


> Alright guys I need your help. So I have a crazy static that comes from my Aune t1. It doesn't happen all the time, but when it does it drives me crazy. I have tried different headphones, different USB ports and nothing. Touching the casing of the aune or my headphone wires either makes it go away or makes it louder. Really makes me sad cause I got the unit in February after hearing about how good of a starting tube amp/dac it is.
> Electrical issue is what i'm guessing?




That sounds like your tube pins aren't all making complete contact with the socket. You aren't by chance using a socket saver are you? I have one of the tubemonger socket savers and I have heard this exactly and every time it is the tube slightly off level and is easily fixed by adjusting the tube


----------



## 21quest

So anybody discovered what is a good external amp to pair with Aune T1?


----------



## Charliemotta

bassboysam said:


> Thanks for the impressions on the JAN tube. What about this Russian tube?
> http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/6922-E88CC-Tube-Types/6H23n-EB-6922


 
 It's probably just fine, just that the price is so high...you should look on Ebay.


----------



## SirMarc

21quest said:


> So anybody discovered what is a good external amp to pair with Aune T1?


I'm using a vintage receiver and its awesome...


----------



## xkonfuzed

kevin chan said:


> Hello!
> 
> My Aune T1 just arrived not long ago.....
> 
> How many hours should I break-in this Aune T1?



This picture makes me regret getting the black T1, white one is so much sexier 

I wouldn't worry too much about burn in, but I'd give it 30 hours.


----------



## Kevin Chan

Thanks xkonfuzed,

I had a hard time choosing the color too. I chose this color it is because it match my iMac.

I listened to it for couple hours and OMG! I am so happy I got this. 





xkonfuzed said:


> This picture makes me regret getting the black T1, white one is so much sexier
> 
> I wouldn't worry too much about burn in, but I'd give it 30 hours.


----------



## MrEleventy

No complaints going black here. Matches my behemoth of an amp, Darkvoice 336se.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

UPDATE!
  
 I contacted Digi-Key from whom I had ordered the Olimex USB Isolator from and they surprisingly apologized and replaced the item for me at no charge whatsoever!
  
 They just got a customer for life. Way to take care of your customers, guys! A+


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Quote:


strat-mangler said:


> UPDATE!
> 
> I contacted Digi-Key from whom I had ordered the Olimex USB Isolator from and they surprisingly apologized and replaced the item for me at no charge whatsoever!
> 
> They just got a customer for life. Way to take care of your customers, guys! A+


 
  
 What are you plugging in that you need that kind of protection?


----------



## Strat-Mangler

ncsuzoso said:


> Quote:
> 
> What are you plugging in that you need that kind of protection?


 
  
 Just the following chain ; PC > T1 > stereo amp.
  
 I wrote detailed posts about my issues with static and all kinds of EMI noise emanating from my PC, so I needed a device to filter that crap out. The Olimex is the only thing that fixed the issue and that was after an entire month of going absolutely ape trying to fix this problem.
  
 Search for my posts in this thread for the history, if you're interested.


----------



## NugDog45

Hello everyone,
  
 Very new to headphones and head -fi!  Stumbled upon this Forum and within the last 4 weeks have bought Momentums, and HD700 and an Aune T1 Mk2.  I had a real quick question about the AUNE.  Is its tube buffering supposed to work when an external dac is connected to the audio outs??  I have a cheap Dac that I wanted to run thru the Aune (just for fun).  Its left output goes to Left Aune audio out and Its right to the right aune audio in.  when I switch between USB and line it sounds "tubey" on usb, like when i'm using the T1 by itself.  When I switch to line I can tell there is  a difference, but still not sure if its just the signal going in thru different paths.
  
 Any help on clearing this up would really help,
  
 thanks


----------



## chowmein83

nugdog45 said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> Very new to headphones and head -fi!  Stumbled upon this Forum and within the last 4 weeks have bought Momentums, and HD700 and an Aune T1 Mk2.  I had a real quick question about the AUNE.  Is its tube buffering supposed to work when an external dac is connected to the audio outs??  I have a cheap Dac that I wanted to run thru the Aune (just for fun).  Its left output goes to Left Aune audio out and Its right to the right aune audio in.  when I switch between USB and line it sounds "tubey" on usb, like when i'm using the T1 by itself.  When I switch to line I can tell there is  a difference, but still not sure if its just the signal going in thru different paths.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Welcome to Head-Fi!
  
 If I'm reading your post correctly, and you're connecting an external DAC into the T1 through the line in, you are just using the solid-state amp of the Aune. That means that the tube will be bypassed. The tube of the T1 can only be used when you're sending the digital audio bits through USB into the Aune's DAC.


----------



## NugDog45

Hello chowmien,

Actually, I have a dac connected to my bedroom TV. I wanted to connect my headphones to it using the Aune. Accidentally, I connected the external dac to the aune's rca outputs instead of its inputs. It sounds slightly different than when I connect the external dac to the aune's rca line inputs. I don't have the USB connected at all. I then connected the L and R output from ext. dac. One went to aune's rca line in, the other to aune's rca line out. I then use the USB/line switch at the top to toggle between the two for comparison of the sound, even though it's through different sides of the headphones (L or R depending on the switch). 

They do sound slightly different. It sounded like it was using the tube when connected through the aune rca outputs and toggled to USB on the switch. It sounded like its not using the tube when connected to the aune inputs and toggled to line on the switch. I figured that when I connected the external dac by accident to the Aune's line outputs, that no sound should have come out of the aune into my headphones. When it did play into my headphones it sounded like it was utilizing the tube with the external dac.

I don't think I'm understandanding completely how this works, but its a lot of fun!!! And rather expensive.


----------



## ElBartoME

ncsuzoso said:


> Quote:
> 
> What are you plugging in that you need that kind of protection?


 
  
 I'm using that kind of stuff while I work on equipment at work (voltages up to 1000V), but I don't see a reason why you need that for the T1. Normally you wouldn't need that unless there is something very wrong with your inhouse wiring.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Maybe they have the breaker box 500V main going straight to USB?


----------



## Strat-Mangler

elbartome said:


> I'm using that kind of stuff while I work on equipment at work (voltages up to 1000V), but I don't see a reason why you need that for the T1. Normally you wouldn't need that unless there is something very wrong with your inhouse wiring.


 
  
 Nothing wrong with the wiring. Used a tester to verify this and had my electrician confirm everything was clean. Nevertheless, the issue persisted.
  
 I've encountered this problem in every single home I ever lived in in my life regardless of what I was using. I was just glad to finally be rid of this problem.


----------



## xkonfuzed

Well, shi*t. I'm having a problem with my T1. Today when I got back home I turned it on, put on some music and I noticed that there's channel imbalance. I've had my unit for nearly a year now (running the same tube), and never had such problems. The left side is slightly louder than the right, it's not that big but it's enough to drive you crazy. I'd be really disappointed if this is from the unit itself and not the tube as I have my Amperex 7308 delivered tomorrow. Anyone else have this problem?


----------



## bassboysam

picked up a GE 6922 for about $15. curious to see how it will sound.

Also picked up a Maverick Audio D2, also curious to see how it compares to the T1.


----------



## ElBartoME

strat-mangler said:


> Nothing wrong with the wiring. Used a tester to verify this and had my electrician confirm everything was clean. Nevertheless, the issue persisted.
> 
> I've encountered this problem in every single home I ever lived in in my life regardless of what I was using. I was just glad to finally be rid of this problem.


 
 Strange. But I'm glad you were able to solve that problem.


----------



## NugDog45

Hello again guys,
  
 Sorry for all the neophyte questions.
  
 Ok, been sittin here playing with th Aune.  Is it OK to use the Aune line outputs as a secondary input when the USB is not being used?  Say I wanted to connect two external dacs, one from the tv and another from the Apple TV for late night watching, and only using the USB when listening to music from my computer.


----------



## mikoss

xkonfuzed said:


> Well, shi*t. I'm having a problem with my T1. Today when I got back home I turned it on, put on some music and I noticed that there's channel imbalance. I've had my unit for nearly a year now (running the same tube), and never had such problems. The left side is slightly louder than the right, it's not that big but it's enough to drive you crazy. I'd be really disappointed if this is from the unit itself and not the tube as I have my Amperex 7308 delivered tomorrow. Anyone else have this problem?




I take it you tried adjusting the gain dips? Hopefully it sorts itself out... Did you try RCA in so it's just the amp as opposed to the DAC?


----------



## mikoss

nugdog45 said:


> Hello again guys,
> 
> Sorry for all the neophyte questions.
> 
> Ok, been sittin here playing with th Aune.  Is it OK to use the Aune line outputs as a secondary input when the USB is not being used?  Say I wanted to connect two external dacs, one from the tv and another from the Apple TV for late night watching, and only using the USB when listening to music from my computer.




You can use the RCA input on the Aune T1 to listen to a different DAC through the T1's headphone amp. 

I don't follow about plugging a source into the RCA output of the T1 though... This doesn't make any sense to me.


----------



## Kevin Chan

mikoss said:


> You can use the RCA input on the Aune T1 to listen to a different DAC through the T1's headphone amp.
> 
> I don't follow about plugging a source into the RCA output of the T1 though... This doesn't make any sense to me.





I try to plug in my DAC via Aune output, it is not working and I don't think it work like that.


----------



## chowmein83

nugdog45 said:


> Hello again guys,
> 
> Sorry for all the neophyte questions.
> 
> Ok, been sittin here playing with th Aune.  Is it OK to use the Aune line outputs as a secondary input when the USB is not being used?  Say I wanted to connect two external dacs, one from the tv and another from the Apple TV for late night watching, and only using the USB when listening to music from my computer.


 
  
 Quote:


mikoss said:


> You can use the RCA input on the Aune T1 to listen to a different DAC through the T1's headphone amp.
> 
> I don't follow about plugging a source into the RCA output of the T1 though... This doesn't make any sense to me.


 
  
 Yeah, this is what I don't get... why would there be sound coming out of the T1's RCA output? That's usually used for when you want use the Aune's DAC but route the sound to another amp.


----------



## NugDog45

Hmmm,
  
 Maybe thats why i'm so confused.  On my MK II, If there is no usb cable plugged in, I can plug in an external dac thru the line outputs, flip the top toggle to USB and viola -  I get it going thru to my headphones.  Right now I have the TV dac going thru to the Aune Line Out and amplifying my headphones.  I just wasn't sure if I should use it this way. Actually both Line in and outs are connected now I'm going to try the Apple TV.


----------



## NugDog45

chowmein83 said:


> Yeah, this is what I don't get... why would there be sound coming out of the T1's RCA output? That's usually used for when you want use the Aune's DAC but route the sound to another amp.


 
  
 I came across this by accident, does that mean that my T1 is possibly not working correctly?


----------



## NugDog45

nugdog45 said:


> Hmmm,
> 
> Maybe thats why i'm so confused.  On my MK II, If there is no usb cable plugged in, I can plug in an external dac thru the line outputs, flip the top toggle to USB and viola -  I get it going thru to my headphones.  Right now I have the TV dac going thru to the Aune Line Out and amplifying my headphones.  I just wasn't sure if I should use it this way. Actually both Line in and outs are connected now I'm going to try the Apple TV.


 
 Yup, for me at least.
  
 TV to DAC to Aune Line out, and top toggle on USB, works to amplify my headphones thru the AUNE.
 Apple TV to another DAC to Aune Line in, and top toggle to line, and it amplifies my headphones thru the Aune.
 In fact I can switch between the two by toggling USB/Line.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

kevin chan said:


> I try to plug in my DAC via Aune output, it is not working and I don't think it work like that.


 
  
 You're being quite unclear.
  
 What is your signal chain?


----------



## feanorean

Hey Milan,
  
 Did you resolve the issue of 24bit on the Aune Mk2's? I saw the literature on the Massdrop forum but was very confused. Can you point me to the software needed to make the changes to enable 24bit playback, if this is even possible?
  
 Can't really be bothered sending my unit back from Australia so I hope this can be resolved. Keep fighting the good fight.
  
 Cheers.


----------



## Kevin Chan

strat-mangler said:


> You're being quite unclear.
> 
> What is your signal chain?





I try to plug in my iBasso via S/PDIF to Aune t1 (RCA) output and see if I can get sound came out from the line-in. Nothing is coming out.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

kevin chan said:


> I try to plug in my iBasso via S/PDIF to Aune t1 (RCA) output and see if I can get sound came out from the line-in. Nothing is coming out.


 
  
 Are you using an iBasso player or DAC? If you're using it as a DAC, why are you plugging into the T1? That makes no sense. Just plug your source into the T1 and your headphones into the T1. Don't daisy-chain your DACs.
  
 The T1 accepts USB-in and RCA-in. If you're using an iBasso player and connecting it using the SPD/IF output, how are you connecting it to the T1? In USB or RCA?


----------



## MrEleventy

strat-mangler said:


> You're being quite unclear.
> 
> What is your signal chain?


He's trying to replicate what NugDog is doing by using the RCA output as inputs.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

nugdog45 said:


> Hmmm,
> 
> Maybe thats why i'm so confused.  On my MK II, If there is no usb cable plugged in, I can plug in an external dac thru the line outputs, flip the top toggle to USB and viola -  I get it going thru to my headphones.  Right now I have the TV dac going thru to the Aune Line Out and amplifying my headphones.  I just wasn't sure if I should use it this way. Actually both Line in and outs are connected now I'm going to try the Apple TV.


 
  
 Just so you're aware, it's "voilà."
  
 A viola is a small violin. Don't mind me. lol!


----------



## Kevin Chan

strat-mangler said:


> Are you using an iBasso player or DAC? If you're using it as a DAC, why are you plugging into the T1? That makes no sense. Just plug your source into the T1 and your headphones into the T1. Don't daisy-chain your DACs.
> 
> The T1 accepts USB-in and RCA-in. If you're using an iBasso player and connecting it using the SPD/IF output, how are you connecting it to the T1? In USB or RCA?




I know and I just try and see if it works like that and the answer is no.
My Aune t1 stick with my iMac via USB.
My iBasso DX100 has a better DAC so it will stick with my HiFiMan


----------



## milan616

feanorean said:


> Hey Milan,
> 
> Did you resolve the issue of 24bit on the Aune Mk2's? I saw the literature on the Massdrop forum but was very confused. Can you point me to the software needed to make the changes to enable 24bit playback, if this is even possible?
> 
> ...


 
  
 Yeah, and sadly you'll need to send it back to Massdrop if you want it replaced. They sent me a prepaid shipping label though so maybe they'll take care of that for you too. Aune won't admit fault, just saying that going forward on Mk2s they'll program them to natively show 24bit support. Ignoring their delusional claim that the Mk2 actually supports 24+32bit and DSD without providing any way to access it, it's still a pretty decent product - Aune is just a bunch of ********.


----------



## xkonfuzed

mikoss said:


> I take it you tried adjusting the gain dips? Hopefully it sorts itself out... Did you try RCA in so it's just the amp as opposed to the DAC?




I checked and the gains are all set to 0. I never played with the gains, t1's amp always had abundant power even for my 250ohm Beyers, 

I wish I could do that, but all my other DACs and sources have a 3.5mm line out and don't have RCA outs. So unless I get a 3.55 mm to RCA cable (which I'll be buying soon) there's no way to tell whether it's from the tube or the amp. I'm still waiting on my new tube,i just hope this problem is from my old tube. 

As for now I'm using my Hifimediy Sabre USB DAC, $43 only but gets you 90% of the T1's sonic abilities on stock tubes. (if not more)


----------



## NugDog45

strat-mangler said:


> Just so you're aware, it's "voilà."
> 
> A viola is a small violin. Don't mind me. lol!




Your quiet quite right sir. Actually, between the predictive type and auto correct, I'm amazed that I can communicate anything at all.


----------



## Vanquished

strat-mangler said:


> Just so you're aware, it's "voilà."
> 
> A viola is a small violin. Don't mind me. lol!


 
 The viola is bigger than a violin  Sizes are violin<viola<violoncello(cello)<contrabass(double bass).


----------



## Vortaku

Looking at picking it up, is there any reason i shouldnt?


----------



## mikoss

Buying it from that site that shall remain nameless as it's not supposed to be posted here seems to have a 95% chance your unit will arrive after a wait without any issues. There were quite a few issues though... A lot of people posted here with them. Read the last 50 pages or so. You may also opt just to email Aune and buy directly. That would be my recommendation.


----------



## Vortaku

mikoss said:


> Buying it from that site that shall remain nameless as it's not supposed to be posted here seems to have a 95% chance your unit will arrive after a wait without any issues. There were quite a few issues though... A lot of people posted here with them. Read the last 50 pages or so. You may also opt just to email Aune and buy directly. That would be my recommendation.


 
 Well my logic in not emailing Aune directly is price. That is why I was thinking about the site that shall not be named.


----------



## milan616

I think one reason buying it from there is their willing to help you with problems and have more power with Aune. Not infinite though as Aune straight up lied to them about the 24 bit programming on the last batch of Mk2s. At least they're fixing the following units.


----------



## JasonZ10

Should I buy this from MassDrop or elsewhere? $170 for the amp/DAC + the Gold Lion tube that OP said was his personal favourite sounds like a pretty badass deal, when the cheapest I could find the actual amp for was $160. I guess it's a no-brainer to buy it based off that, but should I be considering other tubes or will the Gold Lion do?


----------



## milan616

I went in thinking the Gold Lion would probably be enough for me. I was wrong. You could probably sell the Gold Lion for a few bucks though.


----------



## JasonZ10

milan616 said:


> I went in thinking the Gold Lion would probably be enough for me. I was wrong. You could probably sell the Gold Lion for a few bucks though.


 
 I'm coping with the FiiO E9/7 setup right now though, so would I see any decrease in performance/quality at all? What cans are you powering with the T1?


----------



## milan616

jasonz10 said:


> I'm coping with the FiiO E9/7 setup right now though, so would I see any decrease in performance/quality at all? What cans are you powering with the T1?


 
  
 I'm actually back to coping with my E9/E7 haha! Back with it as my T1 is packed up to send back to Massdrop. I've been running AudioTechnica's AD900x, and Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 via the RCA out (with some 12 dB attenuators). One thing I miss from the E9 was using the speakers on the pre-out and having a single volume control.
  
 Never even bothered with the stock tube, and the Gold Lion was a bit bright to me on the AD900x, though the low end and mids were pretty similar to the Sylvania 7309 that I picked up on ebay. The E9/E7 really aren't that bad in comparison, but going back I can feel something missing. Just the overall body of the sound is cooler. You definitely won't lose anything in terms of performance and quality going to the T1, but you will lose the convenience of solid state electronics (I hate waiting for the T1 to power on, but hate myself even more when I leave it on overnight).


----------



## JasonZ10

milan616 said:


> but you will lose the convenience of solid state electronics (I hate waiting for the T1 to power on, but hate myself even more when I leave it on overnight).


 
 Is there a few second warm up time and does it overheat if its on for too long or? I just like the idea of being able to switch out the tube and get a new and different sound from a different tube.
  
 The main reason why I'm looking to upgrade is because the E9 has no RCA line out so I'm using a short and cheap 3.5 to RCA cable with my audioEngine speakers which gives me a bit of feedback. I've been scoping MassDrop for the past month or so and this seems to be the only thing in the $100-200 range that's fits my needs and seems like it could be an upgrade.


----------



## chowmein83

jasonz10 said:


> Is there a few second warm up time and does it overheat if its on for too long or? I just like the idea of being able to switch out the tube and get a new and different sound from a different tube.
> 
> The main reason why I'm looking to upgrade is because the E9 has no RCA line out so I'm using a short and cheap 3.5 to RCA cable with my audioEngine speakers which gives me a bit of feedback. I've been scoping MassDrop for the past month or so and this seems to be the only thing in the $100-200 range that's fits my needs and seems like it could be an upgrade.


 
  
 It takes about half a minute to a minute for the the T1 to warm up the tube so you can use it. If you leave it on for a very long time, it will get very hot, though I haven't ever left it on long enough to know if this will damage it.
  
 As for whether this is a step up over the E7/E9 combo, I would say it is. I actually haven't heard the E9, but I used to have the E7. I also have the E17, which I think beats the E7 in terms of sound quality. And I think the T1, even with the stock tube, beats out the E17 at least in terms of the DAC (I compared the E17 using its own amp and hooked the T1 through RCA line out to the E17). You get a much wider soundstage and more details in the music with the T1 using the stock tube already - and it just gets better from there when you upgrade to other tubes.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I've run the original Aune T1 with a NOS Siemens 6922 for probably 8-10 hours or so at 70-80% volume and while the top of the case does get fairly warm it never overheats or malfunction in any way.  I can only assume the MK2 would be the same or better.
  
 BTW, any current production tube is going to sound flat and less pronounced than a high quality NOS 6922 tube.  It is pretty self explanatory why this is the case if you know anything about tubes.  Shortest explanation is the materials used and the number of high quality manufacturers making tubes back then (Siemens, Amperex, RCA, GE, Sylvania, etc.), more suppliers equals better competition which equals higher quality results.  The real difference when it comes down to technically what is different though is the materials used in NOS vs current production and the assembly methods.  Now all tubes are either Russian or Chinese, not much to choose from.


----------



## Kevin Chan

Hello There, 

 I got a problem here with my Aune T1. Maybe I set it up wrong and maybe my Aune T1 having a problem and I'm not sure.

 I try to set up my Turntable with Aune T1 and output to my speakers. This is how I plugged all the cables;
  
*Not Working*
 Turntable (RCA) to Phone Amp (RCA Input) then Phono Amp (RCA Output) to Speakers (RCA Input) and I got no sound.

 Something wrong with my setup?


*Working*
 Turntable (RCA) to Phono Amp (RCA Input) then Headphone socket (6.3mm to RCA cable) to Speaker (RCA Input) and I got sound.

 Please advice. Thanks.


----------



## mikoss

Turntable -> Phono Stage -> Aune T1 -> headphones will work.
  
  
 The T1's RCA output is just a pre-amp, so you'd need powered speakers, or a power amp to drive your speakers. There probably isn't much use putting the T1 into the chain then, considering you could do this:
  
 Turntable -> Phono Stage -> Power Amp -> speakers
  
  
 btw did you get the tubes I sent yet?


----------



## Kevin Chan

mikoss said:


> Turntable -> Phono Stage -> Aune T1 -> headphones will work.
> 
> 
> The T1's RCA output is just a pre-amp, so you'd need powered speakers, or a power amp to drive your speakers. There probably isn't much use putting the T1 into the chain then, considering you could do this:
> ...


 

 Hey! YES YES today afternoon I got it. I'm listening to the Amperex now. It is nice. I like it. Thanks again.


 Power Amp same as Receiver and Amp?


----------



## mikoss

Cool! Yup, if your receiver has a phono input, that will basically be the phono stage, then you can output to speakers. The only way to get the tube buffer from the T1 is by using the DAC (through USB). If you go RCA into the T1, it doesn't use the tube, just the amp.


----------



## Kevin Chan

mikoss said:


> Cool! Yup, if your receiver has a phono input, that will basically be the phono stage, then you can output to speakers. The only way to get the tube buffer from the T1 is by using the DAC (through USB). If you go RCA into the T1, it doesn't use the tube, just the amp.


 

 Thanks. Now I know what to do.


----------



## 21quest

I need a good tube for my HE400, something that can tame the highs and less aggressive, and probably bigger soundstage too, any recommendations?


----------



## Vortaku

Just pulled the trigger on this, anything i need to get that doesnt come standard?
  
 Thanks,
 V
  
 ps: Will be pushing my dt 770 pro 80ohms unless i upgrade.


----------



## Kevin Chan

21quest said:


> I need a good tube for my HE400, something that can tame the highs and less aggressive, and probably bigger soundstage too, any recommendations?




HE400 already has a Panorama Soundstage. Still not wide enough? How many hours your HE400 already break-in?
I believe you can buy different Tubes to tame it out.


----------



## reiserFS

Oddly enough my T1 is still smelling like hell, even after staying in the basement for like one month or so. If anyone wants a smelly T1, give me a shout.


----------



## Smark

Just purchased the Aune T1 from Amazon for $220 and added on the $40 Genalex E88CC tube which I'll swap out. I'll keep the tube that comes with it around as a spare. Will report back my thoughts with my HiFiMAN HE-500s in the coming days. The DAC should arrive tomorrow.


----------



## mikoss

reiserfs said:


> Oddly enough my T1 is still smelling like hell, even after staying in the basement for like one month or so. If anyone wants a smelly T1, give me a shout.


 
 lol what happened to it? did it burn up or blow a capacitor or what?


----------



## mikoss

smark said:


> Just purchased the Aune T1 from Amazon for $220 and added on the $40 Genalex E88CC tube which I'll swap out. I'll keep the tube that comes with it around as a spare. Will report back my thoughts with my HiFiMAN HE-500s in the coming days. The DAC should arrive tomorrow.


 
 Cool! I would recommend trying the Focus pads with the HE-500's as well... or Jergpads as they used to be called. I would really love my HE-500's if they weren't so damn heavy. Still can't adjust to them so sticking with my HD-650s mostly. I do put on the HE-500's every once in a while and feel like I can hear maybe a touch more highs, and deeper/wider soundstage also by a bit. Tough to say without getting completely adjusted to them, but my neck gets sore lol. 
  
 Let us know how you find the T1 with them.


----------



## ctrlshift

ctrlshift said:


> My Aune T1 makes a crackling noise if left to idle for more than a minute. So basically if I pump music through it as soon as the light comes on and never pause, the sound quality is fine. But if I leave it on for a few mins before starting the music or pause for a few minutes then start it again, there is a crackle/static almost as loud as the music. Short (<1min) pauses don't trigger the issue. The static crackle isn't constant, its like its a part of the music and gets louder and softer as the music gets louder and softer. Once the crackle has developed, I need to switch the unit off for a minute or so to clear it. If I flick it off and on again too quickly, the crackle is still there, but not as loud.
> 
> I tried many different tubes, issue stays the same. Does what I described sound like the kind of thing a capacitor might be responsible for? I don't have any return avenue since it was fine for the first month or so before developing this issue. Keen to fix it if I can...


 
  
 After a lot of superstitious speculation, I believe I may have found the actual cause of this issue and can now replicate it at will. I don't expect anyone to believe me but on the offchance it helps someone else with the same peculiar circumstances, here it is: when my stumpy little logitech wireless mouse receiver is plugged directly into the machine (doesn't matter which port), I get the weird crackly static after pausing and even some random dropouts during long listening sessions. I moved the little receiver thingy to a usb port on my keyboard and boom - no more issues. Now I can get back to working out tiny differences in ancient vaccuum tubes instead of spending my days paranoid about crackles...
  
 Before I moved the little wireless dongle thingy away from the machine, I was able to get rid of the crackle just by unplugging the usb and replugging it - no reboot of the aune needed. So this is definitely a USB interference issue and nothing to do with the aune t1.


----------



## meowmix4jo

Finally got my hands on an Amperex 7308 and it's definitely worth the price tag. Switched out all the caps too since mine came with 4 generics and 4 elnas.
  
 Anyone know where I can get 6N1Ps cheap from the US though? Or want to sell/trade one? I've have 6 now and none of them work. Was starting to think it was my T1 but I bought a second one because I wanted to switch to black and they still don't work.


----------



## Vortaku

I am so anxious to get this and see how it sounds. This is my first amp!


----------



## reiserFS

mikoss said:


> lol what happened to it? did it burn up or blow a capacitor or what?


 
 Was running it when all of a sudden a strong burned plastic smell rose up. The unit still works, so I doubt it's a capacitor.


----------



## Levaix

vortaku said:


> I am so anxious to get this and see how it sounds. This is my first amp!


 
 You won't be disappointed. 

 2 questions for the rest of you.

 1.) Has anyone upgraded to a different DAC? I'm seriously considering getting a Telefunken E88CC, but it's pricey enough that I don't want to drop the money on it if there's something worth upgrading to in the near future. I don't want to go crazy, but the Fostex HP-A4 looks like a pretty sweet solution at a good price.

 2.) The cap upgrade... I probably asked this before, but is it for the amp, the DAC, or both? I'm using an external amp, so if it's amp-only I won't even think about it.


----------



## meowmix4jo

levaix said:


> You won't be disappointed.
> 
> 2 questions for the rest of you.
> 
> ...


 
  
 It depends which caps you're talking about, there's a couple dozen caps in the T1. Most people only change the 8 big easy to get to ones though, 4 of which are power supply, 2 are coupling, and 2 are amp.


----------



## creatip

Hi there fellow T1 lovers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 So I bought this unit a while ago, and loving every minutes out of it. Later on, I browsed for substitute tubes (who wouldn't? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ). I ordered a pair of Vokshod, or Voskhod, or whatever the spelling is (rocket logo) from ebay. Arrived today, from Ukraine. 
  
 Now here's the thing. I never owned or worked with vacuum tubes before. The tube that came with T1 was shiny brand new, right? The Vokshods however, got oxidations on the legs/connectors. I thought this is normal, being a somewhat old tube and all. So I took a (rough) sandpapaper and sanded the legs on one of them, until I can see the silvery metal surface. Problem is, when I plug that tube to the T1, turned out it's faulty. Small volume, right channel crackling, left channel almost no sound at all. So I took the other tube (the one that's not sanded) and plugged it in. Sounds normal (and man, what a sound!!).
  
 So I guess my question is, is it possible that I've damaged the first tube by sanding the legs? Am I supposed to do that (sanding), or is it a big no-no? If it turned out that it's wrecked because of the rough sanding, are there any ways at all to reverse it, maybe fine sanding?
  
 Thank you in advance.


----------



## Strat-Mangler

You shouldn't be sanding a tubes legs. As long as there's a connection, it doesn't matter what the legs look like.
  
 In extreme scenarios where the legs would be utterly filled with oxidation or rust to the point of the tube being unusable, I'd use some strong alcohol to remove this overnight, but that is a one-in-a-million chances you'll ever encounter a tube like this.


----------



## creatip

strat-mangler said:


> You shouldn't be sanding a tubes legs. As long as there's a connection, it doesn't matter what the legs look like.
> 
> In extreme scenarios where the legs would be utterly filled with oxidation or rust to the point of the tube being unusable, I'd use some strong alcohol to remove this overnight, but that is a one-in-a-million chances you'll ever encounter a tube like this.


 
  
 Hi, thanx for the answer.
  
 Yeah I learned that know, that oxidation layer won't make it bad/unusable (well unless in extreme cases like you said). The one I'm using now is the one with the original oxidation layer, and it works fine. 
  
 My question is, the faulty/unusable tube, is it because I sanded the legs, or more probably it's faulty from the start?


----------



## rwpritchett

Sanding the pins won't ruin a tube. As long as there is good contact, the tube will work (if the tube is good). Methinks you received a bad tube. Maybe it was handled a little rough on its way from Ukraine.


----------



## creatip

rwpritchett said:


> Sanding the pins won't ruin a tube. As long as there is good contact, the tube will work (if the tube is good). Methinks you received a bad tube. Maybe it was handled a little rough on its way from Ukraine.


 
  
 Thank you for your answer.
  
 This gives me mixed emotions. I'm glad that I didn't ruin the tube, but also feeling down because I got a faulty product. RMA is out of the question, because then I'd have to send it across the globe. The shipping fee and the time it will take just won't make sense for an RMA. He sent it on 10th of Sept, so that's 20 days for a 1 way trip.
  
 The packing was good, few layers of styrofoam, shaped like a snug box for the tubes, plus a few layers of papers. The faulty one still gives a nice amber glow, and visually all seems ok, but yeah....
  
 I guess I should be happy that I got 1 working tube for the moment 
  
 And yeah, the sound is incredible. More relaxed and laid back, good for easy listening. The layering is better than the Genalex gold pin (vocal in front, instruments in back and all around). Overall very recommended, this tube....


----------



## creatip

Nevermind, found the problem. The faulty tube got chipped tip on the top. I didn't pay attention to it much. After closer inspection, I think it's not so vacuum anymore....


----------



## meowmix4jo

Tubes die, it's just a fact of life, you usually can't tell by looking at them. If the vacuum was lost you would be able to tell instantly by looking at it as they turn white. I've have six 6N1P's now and none of them work.
  
 Also, if anyone wants a T1, I have two of them now since I wanted to change colors. Both have upgraded caps and I have a buch of tubes too. I'd prefer to trade but I'll sell it too.


----------



## rwpritchett

Out of curiosity, was the eBay seller in Ukraine the one who takes pictures of tubes for sale with a little background and tiny trees next to the tubes? I was looking to pick up some Voskhod rockets myself.


----------



## 21quest

kevin chan said:


> HE400 already has a Panorama Soundstage. Still not wide enough? How many hours your HE400 already break-in?
> I believe you can buy different Tubes to tame it out.


 

 Oh well, I didnt know why, just cause maybe lol, let me rephrase, just the treble AND forwarding the mids, if I got that solve I'll be so happy for years to come.


----------



## creatip

rwpritchett said:


> Out of curiosity, was the eBay seller in Ukraine the one who takes pictures of tubes for sale with a little background and tiny trees next to the tubes? I was looking to pick up some Voskhod rockets myself.


 
  
 I don't think that's the guy. I think I know which guy you're talking about, the background is some musical notes, right? That's not the guy. I bought it from another guy, for $12/pair + shipping, I think.
  
 Well, I got over it. At least 1 tube is working, so I'll just enjoy what I got anyway


----------



## xkonfuzed

Wow! So i just got the Amperex 7308 and damn is it good. BIG improvement over the stock tubes ive been stuck with for a year. First thing that jumps out is MIDRANGE, so warm, transparent, and beautiful! Another improvement is the soundstage and imaging. My MA900's really shine with this tube, takes the soundstage even further. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 But of course, you cant have it all, so there are a few things im disliking. Bass quantity is a bit less than 6922eh (though quality is better), and even though this isn't a real problem, output volume is lower than the stock tube. 
  
 Oh, and the channel imbalance is gone! it turns out it was from my old tube. 
  
 Thanks to everyone who recommended this tube. This is my 1499th post, next post i'll be Supremus, so for my 1500th post im going to make a full review of the T1. But for now, im just gonna enjoy this awesome tube.


----------



## SirMarc

Bass gets better with some burn in on the 7308


----------



## mikoss

sirmarc said:


> Bass gets better with some burn in on the 7308


 
 Also improves a lot if you replace the stock 3300uF 25V (usually Lelon brand) caps with Panasonic FR's. If you solder them straight on, they will be a touch taller than the bottom cover, or you can fold them over and they'll fit just fine.
  
 Received my second hand T1 yesterday and capped it right away, just on the long burn in process now... Should be done in a week or so.


----------



## mikoss

@creatip re: cleaning tubes... here is a guide from @CoiL posted a while ago:
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4155#post_10156705


----------



## rwpritchett

creatip said:


> I don't think that's the guy. I think I know which guy you're talking about, the background is some musical notes, right? That's not the guy. I bought it from another guy, for $12/pair + shipping, I think.
> 
> Well, I got over it. At least 1 tube is working, so I'll just enjoy what I got anyway




I just pulled the trigger on some Rocket logos from the Ukraine seller with the little trees. I already picked up what was advertised as a Voskhod tube (almost all markings are rubbed off) a while ago and I really like the sound. It's a little microphonic though, so I'm looking to pick up some better quality tubes.

I'm starting to get quite a collection of tubes going... might have to start selling the ones I don't use much or trade with some other head-fi'ers. I have an Amperex 7308 gold pin from Upscale that seems to be everyone's favorite, but I don't get the "wow" factor that everybody else gets from it. I'm tempted to buy another one to see if it's just my tube, but it is by far the most expensive tube I've purchased and I'm a bit wary of spending more.


----------



## mikoss

rwpritchett said:


> I just pulled the trigger on some Rocket logos from the Ukraine seller with the little trees. I already picked up what was advertised as a Voskhod tube (almost all markings are rubbed off) a while ago and I really like the sound. It's a little microphonic though, so I'm looking to pick up some better quality tubes.
> 
> I'm starting to get quite a collection of tubes going... might have to start selling the ones I don't use much or trade with some other head-fi'ers. I have an Amperex 7308 gold pin from Upscale that seems to be everyone's favorite, but I don't get the "wow" factor that everybody else gets from it. I'm tempted to buy another one to see if it's just my tube, but it is by far the most expensive tube I've purchased and I'm a bit wary of spending more.




I find the 7308's sound extremely dull for the first 20 hours or so... Maybe give it some more time... Or do you already have a lot of hours on it?


----------



## KepinCemit

A bit OOT, but anyway :
  
 Have anyone buy tube from upscaleaudio recently ?
  
 I did an order about 2-3 weeks ago, but the status stays on  "awaiting fullfillment".  Tried to email them by replying the email from them confirming the order and through their website, but didn't have any reply at all.
  
 Tried to login on their web again just now, but it seems that my order has disappeared. When I clicked on the "view order status" after I login, this show up "You haven't placed any orders with us. When you do, their status will appear on this page."
  
  
 Weird.....
  
  
  
 EDIT:
 Nvm,
  
 just checked my paypal account, apparently upscale cancelled the sale without letting me know.


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> @creatip re: cleaning tubes... here is a guide from @CoiL posted a while ago:
> 
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4155#post_10156705


 
  
 Thanks. Tried that just now with just the vinegar (I don't have a baking soda handy). Cleaned and shined the legs a bit, but no discernible upgrade in the sounds. Guess the legs on my tube aren't very dirty 
  


rwpritchett said:


> I just pulled the trigger on some Rocket logos from the Ukraine seller with the little trees. I already picked up what was advertised as a Voskhod tube (almost all markings are rubbed off) a while ago and I really like the sound. It's a little microphonic though, so I'm looking to pick up some better quality tubes.
> 
> I'm starting to get quite a collection of tubes going... might have to start selling the ones I don't use much or trade with some other head-fi'ers. I have an Amperex 7308 gold pin from Upscale that seems to be everyone's favorite, but I don't get the "wow" factor that everybody else gets from it. I'm tempted to buy another one to see if it's just my tube, but it is by far the most expensive tube I've purchased and I'm a bit wary of spending more.


 
  
 The tubes I got are not exactly NOS (as advertised in ebay). There are clearly signs of being installed in a system.
  
 I guess I'll try ordering another pair from that guy you ordered, maybe I'll get a real NOS pair, and see if they sound the same or better. Good for future supplies also...


----------



## meowmix4jo

creatip said:


> Thanks. Tried that just now with just the vinegar (I don't have a baking soda handy). Cleaned and shined the legs a bit, but no discernible upgrade in the sounds. Guess the legs on my tube aren't very dirty
> 
> 
> The tubes I got are not exactly NOS (as advertised in ebay). There are clearly signs of being installed in a system.
> ...


 
  
 NOS isn't used the same way it is for most other things by a lot of tube sellers for some reason. If you read the descriptions a lot of them will be labelled NOS if they test over a certain amount even if they've been used. Either way tubes tend to not age well physically even if they actually are NOS. The tube that came with the T1 is nice and shiny because it was made recently, the one that came with my T1 is stamped 2001. Most NOS tubes are 30+ years old, even if they've just been sitting in a box it will show, especially on the pins. 6N1P is easy to find in really good condition though, I'm pretty sure they're still being made.


----------



## xkonfuzed

I have finished writing my T1 review! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 http://www.head-fi.org/products/aune-t1/reviews/11670


----------



## rwpritchett

mikoss said:


> I find the 7308's sound extremely dull for the first 20 hours or so... Maybe give it some more time... Or do you already have a lot of hours on it?




Yeah, dull is exactly how I would describe it. I admit, the tube probably only has about 10h on it from my own use since it doesn't get into my tube rotation often. The tube was purchased NOS and also cryo treated. Perhaps the cryo treatment, which enhances the material durability, gives reason for a longer burn in. Anyone else notice cryo treated tubes sounding lackluster initially??


----------



## mikoss

Interesting read on tube burn in:
 http://tctubes.com/power-tube-testing.aspx


----------



## mikoss

In case anyone is looking for Amperex 7308 tubes, I just finished a 15 hour or so burn in on some Philips Special Quality E88CC 7LG delta2A2 tubes with gold pins and halo getters. They sound pretty much identical and usually sell for a bit less than the Amperex 7308 tubes.
  
 Beautiful, rich mids, clarity without overemphasis of bass or highs, and warm. Highly reccomended.
  
 Here is a link to the listing that I bought them from, for pics/etc.
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/271581979865?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## xkonfuzed

So now that I've got a 7308, im looking for a tube that just does bass. This will only be used with my bass-heavy cans (Q40, K518, Denon C300). Again, im looking for bass only. 
  
 Suggestions?


----------



## Chs177

xkonfuzed said:


> So now that I've got a 7308, im looking for a tube that just does bass. This will only be used with my bass-heavy cans (Q40, K518, Denon C300). Again, im looking for bass only.
> 
> Suggestions?


 

 EH 6922 (new, 2010+ year, produced in the Russia) have a lot of bass.


----------



## mikoss

Anyone ever hear a tube they prefer to the Amperex 7308?
  
 I've given some serious listening time to a Philips Miniwatt Holland 7308/E188CC I've had for a while, and I'm thinking it might be slightly better... Almost identical in characteristics, but also it gives off this slick, smooth air to everything that reminds me of the things I love about listening to vinyl. (without the snap/crackle/pop!) The soundstage is also slightly more open, which is really magical because I usually find the mid-range clarity and quality suffer if everything opens up. It doesn't with this tube... it sounds downright magical to me. 
  
 I took a quick look on ebay and there aren't many around. The sellers elsewhere are charging ridiculous amounts for this tube, but I might try and order a Dario version, made in France... apparently this may sound almost as nice as the Philips Herleen made version *skeptical*
  
 Mine has creases on the top, along with 18K which I think is the lot #. Single supported halo getter, 7R3 delta1D4  
  
 No idea if this was made beside the Amperex 7308s, but I give it a slight edge over the 7308's I've heard so far.
  
 Edit: This tube obliterates my Amperex 7308's. I've never heard my music sound more realistic. It has the extended, nuanced highs of my Siemen E88CC tubes, lush midrange of the Amperex 7308s, and tight, deep bass.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

That is like asking if you have ever heard a speaker you prefer over *insert name*.  Everyone is going to have their favorites and few people can afford to try every single high quality tube out there.  For instance have you listened to a Siemens 6922 CCa?  They normally go for $200-$300 per tube if they are genuine.
  
 I prefer my Siemens 6922 (Made in German) over any Amperex I have heard, however you can tweak and balance any tubes with what capacitors you choose (if you do cap mods).  Also tubes will sound different to everyone based on the headphones used.  So your question is basically impossible to answer.


----------



## mikoss

Oh man, I'd love to hear a CCa some day! Was hoping some lucky person had tried one with their T1. I also enjoy the German Siemens tubes I've heard, they had very engaging highs.


----------



## xkonfuzed

I have a question: Does switching on/off the T1 frequently damage the tube? I don't switch it on/off a lot. But say i power it on, use it for an hour then switch it off. Then i come back later and power it on again, and so on and so on. Do does that affect the tube?


----------



## creatip

xkonfuzed said:


> I have a question: Does switching on/off the T1 frequently damage the tube? I don't switch it on/off a lot. But say i power it on, use it for an hour then switch it off. Then i come back later and power it on again, and so on and so on. Do does that affect the tube?


 
  
 I also thought about this, but not so much about the amp (1 reason because it's easily replaceable), but rather about the on/off flick switch on the back. It's small, and frankly, feels a bit brittle. I'm kinda afraid it will give up sooner than any other things because of the daily switch on/off. 
  
 I guess my question is, what if I switch off the power source (i.e. unplugging the power supply, without switching the unit off)?


----------



## eobet

This is a public service announcement:
  
*DO NOT BUY THE T1 FROM ALIEXPRESS!*
  
 A few months ago I bought from a seller called "Honesty Shenzen Co.LTD" and the unit that arrived had a faulty power button so it wouldn't turn on. I provided photo and video evidence, but the seller refused to ship me a new unit or pay for the return shipping costs (which from Sweden was just about as high as the price of the device itself). So after a lot of back and forth (including with the Aliexpress customer service who said that I did have to pay for return shipping myself), I sent just the main unit in a padded envelope, as that was my cheapest option.
  
 Well, that letter has now been sitting in China (according to the tracking info) for two months now, and when I look up the seller on Aliexpress, they have closed their shop and disappeared.
  
 Buyers beware!
  
 And on that note, does anyone know of a reliable seller in Europe that sells the MK2 and offers other payment options than Paypal (who are evil)?


----------



## meowmix4jo

Amazon UK has them as well.


----------



## MrEleventy

eobet said:


> This is a public service announcement:
> 
> *DO NOT BUY THE T1 FROM ALIEXPRESS!*
> 
> ...


You should've dealt with Aune instead of AliExpress/Seller.


----------



## nScott89

Hey guys. Been a while since I posted anything but I am so excited I just had to let everyone know.  I just bought a MK1 with the 6922EH yesterday.  It's set to arrive tomorrow. I can't wait as I've never had any tube gear.
 But wait, there's more. I got a pair of Amperex Orange Globes, a Russian 6N23P, pair of 6N23P Voskhod Rockets, Genalex Gold Lion E88CC gold pin and, from what I hear, saving the best for last: Philips Miniwatt E188CC SQ with gold pins!
 Like I said, I'm so excited! I just need to figure out what song to listen to first.


----------



## Charliemotta

Just go to Aune direct like I did.


----------



## mikoss

eobet said:


> This is a public service announcement:
> 
> *DO NOT BUY THE T1 FROM ALIEXPRESS!*
> 
> ...


 
 Very crappy to hear.
  
 There is a headfi member that was selling his from Europe... not sure if it's still available; maybe try a PM to @moriez
  
 Good luck!


----------



## mikoss

nscott89 said:


> Hey guys. Been a while since I posted anything but I am so excited I just had to let everyone know.  I just bought a MK1 with the 6922EH yesterday.  It's set to arrive tomorrow. I can't wait as I've never had any tube gear.
> But wait, there's more. I got a pair of Amperex Orange Globes, a Russian 6N23P, pair of 6N23P Voskhod Rockets, Genalex Gold Lion E88CC gold pin and, from what I hear, saving the best for last: Philips Miniwatt E188CC SQ with gold pins!
> Like I said, I'm so excited! I just need to figure out what song to listen to first.


 
 Looking forward to your impressions of the tubes. Good catch on the Miniwatt... I ended up buying a very strong NOS from someone in Germany for $175, that's how much this tube has blown me away. Enjoy the T1.


----------



## moriez

mikoss said:


> eobet said:
> 
> 
> > This is a public service announcement:
> ...


 
  
 Hey,
  
 Just saw the notification of that my name's mentioned. I no longer have the Aune but bought it from Audiophonics.fr My first experience with them for another item was quite bad but with the Aune everything went smooth.


----------



## nScott89

mikoss said:


> Looking forward to your impressions of the tubes. Good catch on the Miniwatt... I ended up buying a very strong NOS from someone in Germany for $175, that's how much this tube has blown me away. Enjoy the T1.


 
 The T1 arrives tomorrow along with the Genelex Gold Lion. Other tubes arrive at later times. I didn't mention this but I got that Miniwatt for $50. It's used but from the seller's feedback I expect it to be in pretty good condition. The silkscreen on it looks pretty great. It will definitely be worth the $50.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I am leaving what I typed for informational purposes, but I took what user *meowmix4jo* meant incorrectly and I didn't read what they were responding to.  They were talking about superficial outer aging of pins and labels wearing off (thank God we have better than labels to use to identify tubes 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 ) and I thought they meant the entire tube.  Considering I spent a decent amount of time writing it and getting pictures/links to help others learn, I'm not going to delete it.  Apologies to *meowmix4jo* though.
  
  
  
 Quote:


meowmix4jo said:


> NOS isn't used the same way it is for most other things by a lot of tube sellers for some reason. If you read the descriptions a lot of them will be labelled NOS if they test over a certain amount even if they've been used. Either way tubes tend to not age well physically even if they actually are NOS. The tube that came with the T1 is nice and shiny because it was made recently, the one that came with my T1 is stamped 2001. Most NOS tubes are 30+ years old, even if they've just been sitting in a box it will show, especially on the pins. 6N1P is easy to find in really good condition though, I'm pretty sure they're still being made.


 
  
  
 The reason many NOS tubes look as if they have been used is because.... they probably have.  Most sellers of NOS tubes, especially Ebay sellers, buy them at estate sales.  They normally buy a bulk quantity and go through them looking for tubes that are desirable models and test well on their equipment.  However most NOS sellers test not only the basic micromhos test for each triode (in the case of tubes for the T1), but also shorts, gas and grid emissions to tell us the life of the cathode, the quality of the vacuum (to an extant) and to remove failing tubes immediately (gas emissions). This amount of information is the best way (and really the only way) for a seller to give us an idea of where a tube is in its lifespan.  Those NOS values you brought up are not just randomly thrown out there (I know you didn't say that, but you didn't say how either), they are based on the test equipment used.  Tubes are made of two things, glass and metallics encased inside... a vacuum.  Both of these materials do not "age" unless there is stress put on them either through use of the tube or damage.  Also if you have studied physics, even at the HS level, you will know to simplify many physics questions "perfect" vacuums are used.  We are talking about imperfect vacuums with tubes, even outer space isn't a true vacuum as "elementary" physics treats it, but I'll get back to vacuums in a second.
  
 The reason NOS tubes cost more (and almost always sound better than current production tubes) is because of a few fundamental reasons: 1) the materials used in NOS tubes are either no longer viable for a profitable business or literally impossible to gather a quality supply for manufacturing. 2) The time and equipment it takes to create the highest quality vacuum are no longer as big of a concern because of modern electronics (for our T1 guitar players this is very easy to explain in two letters, SS), so current tube facilities will set a value as their standard of vacuum "hardness" and that is what you get from EH/GL/etc. 3) The amount of actual production facilities (not "manufacturers" (see relabeling)) are extremely limited compared to the 50's-70's which are the most common NOS tubes sold.  Almost everything now is made in either Russia, Eastern Europe or China and that is pretty much it.  As with almost everything, the less competition, the less quality and innovations. 4) This is the T1 thread, I really don't see a reason to get into this much deeper.  If you really want to get into it we can discuss vacuum fluctuations, dark energy and neutrinos to name a few (this is getting into quantum physics) ways vacuums vary and cost goes up dramatically based on the quality of the vacuum "hardness".  However you can read that in a few of the links I provided at the bottom.
  


> Lifetime of cathodes: The lifetime of a tube is determined by the lifetime of its cathode emission. And the life of the of a cathode is dependent on the cathode temperature, the *degree of vacuum in the tube*, and *purity of the materials* in the cathode.


 
  
 You should now understand why I listed the 3 reasons above*.  In other words, NOS tubes actually last longer than current production tubes if both are at equal points in their lifespan.*
  
  
  
 Here take a look at this for a visual guide, this is a dual triode (12AX7), which with this type of visual representation is pretty much identical to our T1 tubes:
  

  
  
  
 Here are a few links on NOS tubes and tubes in general, so I don't have to run down everything (although the basics are in this post)
  
 http://www.vacuumtubes.net/How_Vacuum_Tubes_Work.htm
 http://www.vacuumtubes.net/faq.htm
 http://www.tubefreak.com/tubesnos.htm
 http://spectrum.ieee.org/consumer-electronics/audiovideo/the-cool-sound-of-tubes

  


> Is it OK to buy a 30 year old tube? Don't they lose their vacuum or anything?
> 
> The beauty of a vacuum tube is that all the electronic components are sealed in a vacuum. *Unless something happens to the tube to cause it to lose it's vacuum, it will function as well today as when it was made decades ago.*


 
  
 Like I said, not trying to be an ass here, I just don't like to see people misinforming others based on misinformation they have been told themselves.  Do you really think people are dropping $250+ on Siemens CCa tubes if they can die at any moment just because they are old?  That should throw a red flag immediately on the information you have gathered or been told.  A tube being "shiny" has absolutely nothing to do with the lifespan or the quality of sound produced, for example see the GE Smokies that will, um.. smoke any current shiny tubes, lol.
  
 I hope you take this as I intended it and not as an attack.  I'm an Electrical Engineering student, so I was immediately drawn to electron tubes when I first got into the live music scene in Raleigh, NC.  I'm a Jr. at NC State (actually a top 20 Engineering College in the US) who had to take a medical leave and will be back hopefully in the 2015 Spring or Summer I Session.  For now I am working in IT for Cisco until I can save up funds and get back.


----------



## meowmix4jo

That's...pretty much what I said with more words. I never said anything about the inside of the tube, since the person I quoted was talking about the _appearance_ of the tubes. The tubes will definitely show their age even if they are actual NOS since pins oxidize and tarnish and the labels wear off really easily even in the box. I didn't mention a single thing about the quality or insides of the tube besides a lot of tubes labeled NOS actually being used but tested which is true as you mentioned.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Well that is why gold alloy is popular for use with the pins on your highest quality NOS 6922 tubes like Siemens, Amperex, Telefunken, Valvo, etc.
  
  


> *Either way tubes tend to not age well physically even if they actually are NOS.* The tube that came with the T1 is nice and shiny because it was made recently, the one that came with my T1 is stamped 2001. *Most NOS tubes are 30+ years old, even if they've just been sitting in a box it will show, especially on the pins.*


 
  
 That first sentence I underlined is where I took something simple and ran with it, but I do that, lol.  To me it sounded like you were saying NOS tubes do not age well in terms of the entire tube itself and that current production tubes are more durable because they aren't old.  I can read it now and see you mean superficially aging, as in exposed to the elements (unless someone sealed these things) and losing their markings and the steel pins showing corrosion.
  
 Gold is resistant to corrosion and various other chemical reactions, along with gold being a very good conductor.  This is actually another great example of materials being used in NOS vs. Current Production.  When you see gold pins on current tubes, that is gold plating on a simple alloy like a low level steel, however a NOS tube is almost always a gold alloy comprised of various metals like copper, steel, sometimes silver and obviously gold.  Normally NOS also used a plating to make sure no corrosion was possible, but there was actual gold in those pins, unlike the minuscule amount of gold used on outside of current tube pins just to look nice and give mild protection, mainly to look nice and raise the price.  I would bet money if you take a Genalex - Gold Lion 6922 and scrape the pins with your thumbnail, the gold will fall off and you will see a dull silver color underneath (steel).
  
  
 btw, *meowmix4jo*, I edited my post, look at the first thing in the post now and I also took out the first sentence below the quote.  Apologies again.


----------



## penmarker

You guys are very civil, here have my upvotes. I love this community.


----------



## creatip

meowmix4jo said:


> That's...pretty much what I said with more words. I never said anything about the inside of the tube, since the person I quoted was talking about the _appearance_ of the tubes. The tubes will definitely show their age even if they are actual NOS since pins oxidize and tarnish and the labels wear off really easily even in the box. I didn't mention a single thing about the quality or insides of the tube besides a lot of tubes labeled NOS actually being used but tested which is true as you mentioned.


 
  
 I think you were quoting my post in the first place, so I guess I'm somewhat responsible for the miscom...
  
 These are some pictures of the tube in question:
  

 The chipped tip on the top that made me think it's not so vacuum anymore, hence the faulty sound (almost non-existent left channel, distortions on right channel)
  

 It got siver marker ink on the bottom. I'm guessing the previous owner don't like light shining through from below.
  
 *those are all pictures of the actual tube, took the pictures myself. MS is my initial, and the sig is my habit 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Well, like they say, no use crying over spilled milk, and RMA would be too time and cost consuming. Luckily I bought a pair, and the other one woks well. 
  
 Here's a bonus:
  

  

  
 Got a bit bored by the standard white LED of the T1, so I pimped the tube by painting the bottom with Tamiya paints. Easily reversible (I've changed the color to orange-amber now, actually)


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Well not to alarm you about that tube, but to me it screams fake and damaged (obviously on the damaged part). 
  
 First lets talk about the damaged part and I'll use one of my links above to explain it:
  
  


> A typical glass audio tube is made on an assembly line by people wielding tweezers and small electric spot-welders. They assemble the plate, cathode, grids and other parts inside a set of mica or ceramic spacers, then crimp the whole assembly together. The electrical connections are then spot-welded to the tube's base wiring. This work has to be done in fairly clean conditions, although not as extreme as the "clean rooms" used to make semiconductors. Smocks and caps are worn, and each workstation is equipped with a constant source of filtered airflow to keep dust away from the tube parts.
> 
> Once the finished assembly is attached to the base, the glass envelope can be slid over the assembly and flame-sealed to the base disc. *A small glass exhaust tube is still attached, and enters the envelope. The tube assembly is attached to a processing machine (sometimes called a "sealex" machine, an old American brandname for this kind of device). The exhaust tubing goes to a multistage high-vacuum pump.* The sealex has a rotating turntable with several tubes, all undergoing a different step in the process. (See more pictures of glass tube assembly and production) (link doesn't work, lol)


 
  
 Where your tube is "broken" or "cracked off" however you want to say it, is the location of that exhaust tube and this is why sellers test for gas emissions.  See if you have anyone local with say a Hickok 600A/USM118B or there are other brands like B&K Dynas (Hickok is most well known) these are modern testers that do what it used to take multiple things to produce these results; a few others are Amplitrex, Maxi and even Simpson (who also makes high end tube amps).  These testers are all modern of these combined: Filament continuity tester, Tube checker, Emission tester, Short circuit tester (you would think the continuity tester would verify this one already), Parametrical tester AC and DC (separate originally), Mutual and Dynamic conductance tester and Oscilloscope tube curve tracer plug-in.  Luckily now all you need is a Hickok 600A, which is still an old piece of equipment, but you have to realize tubes have been around since the early 1900s. 
  
*Anyway* after all that stuff you didn't need to know, if you can find someone with any of the modern tube testers they will be able to tell you in less than 5 minutes if your tube has gas emissions, meaning the tube is no longer 100% sealed and is losing its vacuum slowly, also known as a dying tube.  Once the vacuum hits a certain critical level, the tube will burn out similar to a light bulb; I won't bother explaining it because I've already typed way too much.  One other thing is if the tube is good for emissions and you want to check the triode levels, the tester needs to have been recently calibrated to give you an accurate reading
  
  
*Secondly*, when I said "thank God we have better than labels to use to identify tubes", one of those other things is an etched 2 digit code or number on the bottom of the tube where you look to have been purposely covered up so it is impossible to see.  Just so I don't have to go back through pages to find out, can you tell me exactly what tube that is (Brand, Model, Year and anything unique (what did you pay?))  It is possible it is a legit tube, but that picture makes me think the tube is on the way out.  I've seen lots of tubes and I have never seen one in person with the top broken off like that.  It's like seeing a capacitor that is leaking, but still functioning, that is the best example I can think of right now.  Do me a favor and get a picture shooting straight down on the top of that tube.  Also do you see any etched codes anywhere like near the top or bottom?  Most commonly the location is right where the tube goes from a cylinder to rounded (there is a reason they are rounded and why they have a collection of residue at specific spots depending on the tube type) before going to a point or the pins if it is on the bottom, but it is normally the top.  Take a good flashlight and look it over carefully, you are looking for something that may require someone who knows the difficulty level of locating it to even find it.  It can be completely invisible to the naked eye without using things like flashlights or rubbing something like ash residue on the tube and blowing it off.  You would not believe what people will do to verify a tube one way or the other.  I hope yours is what you think it is and the damage at the top was not bad enough to cause a gas leak, however it looks bad.
  
 Good luck and lets us know if you are able to find out anything.  If it was me I would care more about the possible gas emission.  That is like saying your CPU no longer has a heat sink on it anymore and yea it will still work, but who knows for how long.  If there is anything you think myself or another forum member can help you with, please ask.  I have seen similar mods done on the LED in the Aune T1, I prefer to use the TubeMonger silicon filled base socket saver for multiple reasons besides just blocking light.  People have asked me why I have the $25 socket saver that is known to be great at preventing vibrations to the tube and I also have tube silicon dampener rings.  The reason for all of this is due to how much vibration the tube is getting not only from my PC right near it, but also my Definitive Technology C/L/R 2002 center channel and I have 2 Onkyo subs in here along with a pair Polk Audio 45 and 30 monitor series.  I run a 5.2 setup when I don't have to wear headphones, see my sig for the rest of the details if interested.
  
  
 EDIT: that looks like a sticker now that I have it on my 100% Adobe RGB Gamut display, try and clean that off if you can, maybe with a small toothbrush.
  


penmarker said:


> You guys are very civil, here have my upvotes. I love this community.


 
  
 lol this made me laugh, but I never wanted to make anyone feel like I was "attacking" them with information or lecturing, just from how I read it, I took it completely different from how it was intended.  You can have my rep vote also!
  
  
 BTW, I ran across this on Ebay and if say only 60-70% of them test NOS, you still have a very good profit margin: http://www.ebay.com/itm/70x-TESLA-E88CC-NOS-Tubes-/261563276781?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3ce662dded
  
 That is only $25/per tube with x70 of them at $1750 (with free shipping, lol).  So if someone has the equipment and money, that is a hell of a deal if you can sell them all for at least $50, which should take no time at all.  You could also sell them in matched sets of 2,4 and 6 for guitar amps and hifi amp owners.  The E88CC is pretty well known in the high fi community.
  
  
 l and not to mention he has it listed as a 14 day return policy, so you have 14 days to test 70 tubes and figure out your profit.  Those can easily fetch $50-$100 based on the test results and condition of the tube labels/pins/etc.  I can tell just by looking at the picture they are legit Tesla E88CC tubes, look at the very top of the tubes in the box still.  Just like with my Siemens 6922, they have 4 lines going in opposite directions on the top of the tube to help disperse heat.  Alright, done rambling.
  
 Yall have a good week!


----------



## rwpritchett

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






creatip said:


> I think you were quoting my post in the first place, so I guess I'm somewhat responsible for the miscom...
> 
> These are some pictures of the tube in question:
> 
> ...






Is everybody on this forum a pro photographer?? I can never get my pictures to look this good.

The silver paint on the bottom of that tube seems fishy. I don't know about the Voskhod tubes, but some counterfeiters cover up that area on fake telefunkens to hide the missing diamond mark. The dog-dish getter and other internals look like a Russian manufactured tube though so it seems legit.


----------



## nScott89

> For those who don't like to read, here is my review in picture form:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 Oh my God... It's true! What a huge difference! 
  
 Ok. I have to admit I was about as giddy as a school girl when I saw the postman arrive today. I was very anxious to give this magical device a shot after reading so much about it on here. When it arrived about an hour ago I opened the package up and was surprised when I didn't see the EH 6922... It was hidden in under the Aune sticker, thank God. 
  
 Anyways, you guys probably want to hear my thoughts on the sound. The only tube I have available to me at the moment is the EH 6922 but my Genelex Gold Lion should arrive sometime later today. My headphones are stock Sennheiser HD558. My previous DAC/Amp was a FiiO E07k. I had never heard a tube before as far as I'm aware. As soon as I turned on the T1 and started playing Khazad-Dum I was surprised to find that the recording had changed from being done in a small venue to this huge open arena. I was a little taken aback. At first I thought this was in my head but I did a quick A/B to check. YES! It was true.... After that sweet girl finished her solo (such an angelic voice she has) at the end of the song I decided to check out some rock. First track is one of my old favorites that I know so very well: Guns N' Roses - Sweet Child of Mine from the MFSL CD of Appetite for Destruction. WOW I think there is an even bigger difference from the E07k.... A/B and confirm. Very very clear and open. Before it was a very in your head sound but now it's like being in a chamber. More reverb sounding. Based off this quick check of a couple tracks, rock seems to benefit even more with this tube than classical. I shall do more investigating!
  
 Bass: Very tight with great impact and luscious feel to it. Mids: a little more recessed than the E07k? Certainly very smooth and clear. Very detailed.  Treble: WOW. Huge improvement. Much more airy with magnificient sparkle and shimmer. Not forward at all and very pleasant. Feels less harsh and while not as loud certainly more clear. Cymbals and high hats sound sooooo amazing. I don't know exactly how to describe them so I'll just say that the Treble sounds so much more pleasant than the E07k.
  
 Overall Impression: The best $160 I've ever spent. Oh dear! I just had the most exciting thought: I have more tubes showing up soon! SQUEEE!
 Really guys. If you're on solid state make the switch. There's an incredible difference.
 Two word review: Oh my!
  
 Edit: I forgot to mention one of my most favorite changes: Snare drums.... They have this crazy texture I'ld not heard from them before.  So crisp... Like audio Nirvana. Speaking of which, I shall have to listen to some of their stuff after I finish this song.  (NP: Led Zeppelin - Dazed and Confused)
  
 Edit 2: I'm about to swallow my tongue listening to edIT - Battling Go-Go Yubari in Downtown L.A. The texture is one of the best things about this song, even with my E07k but the T1 just takes it to a whole other level. I am shuddering....
  
 Edit 3: 
 I hope joeq70 doesn't mind if I borrow his picture review format...
  
  

  
 plus
  
  

  
  
  
 equals
  
  

 Edit 4: I forgot that I am using an inline 75 ohm resistor cable for my HD558. This might be important to know 
 Edit 5: Norah Jones..... The level of detail seems so much higher here.  Also, Eva Cassidy is even more angelic than ever. I can hear every detail. I am constantly A/Bing to reassure you guys. 
  
 The T1 has really opened up these cans. I'm sooooooooo happy I made this purchase!


----------



## hdtv00

I want to say I tried hooking this up using my new Nvidia Shield Tablet via USB OTG and it works fine. My question is Is hooking it up w/ usb that way all there is to it. I didn't have to do anything, on the device it said USB headphone for a sec and worked straight away. So am I getting that higher level of quality sound wise. Is it really that simple I guess I'm asking.


----------



## copajohn

Has anyone tried or will a Amperex PQ 8416 work in an Aune T1? 
  
 Go here:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-PQ-8416-VACUUM-TUBE-1966-MATCH-PAIR-12-VOLT-6922-6DJ8-LAMPIZATOR-027-/221548644951?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3395540a57


----------



## nScott89

copajohn said:


> Has anyone tried or will a Amperex PQ 8416 work in an Aune T1?
> 
> Go here:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-PQ-8416-VACUUM-TUBE-1966-MATCH-PAIR-12-VOLT-6922-6DJ8-LAMPIZATOR-027-/221548644951?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3395540a57


 

I imagine they should work and I hear that the White PQ is one of the best options available for the T1. I'm not sure if the 8416 would match up to the 7308 White PQ though. Those tubes are 6DJ8/6922 so they should work. I can't see why not.

 12 Volt... Nevermind. I didn't notice this.


hdtv00 said:


> I want to say I tried hooking this up using my new Nvidia Shield Tablet via USB OTG and it works fine. My question is Is hooking it up w/ usb that way all there is to it. I didn't have to do anything, on the device it said USB headphone for a sec and worked straight away. So am I getting that higher level of quality sound wise. Is it really that simple I guess I'm asking.


 
 Yes, if they are working through USB OTG then the tube should be working.


----------



## mikoss

I suspect that tubes with 12 volt heaters instead of the usual 6 volt will probably be an issue with the T1.
  
 edit: 12au7's work with an adapter, so who knows.
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/4200#post_10162534
  
 My T1 tonight, posing on its side, sans cover...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

nscott89 said:


> Overall Impression: The best $160 I've ever spent. Oh dear! I just had the most exciting thought: I have more tubes showing up soon! SQUEEE!
> Really guys. If you're on solid state make the switch. There's an incredible difference.
> Two word review: Oh my!


 
  
  
 I'm glad you enjoy the T1, but you should know it is a SS amp with the tube only being use as a buffer, pretty much the tube is your EQ.  Everything that is driving your phones is SS.


----------



## nScott89

Alrighty then. My *Genaelex Gold Lion *arrived today. This tube requires some burn in from what I read so this is just my initial impression. I was a bit surprised by this tube because, well, it's not very 'tube-y'. There's really hardly any color here which is very different from the 6922EH. It's got a very balanced sound to it. The bass is very tight with a tiny hint of reverb. The mids are super clean and a little laid back and the highs are very airy and have very limited added shimmer unlike the 6922EH. But I think the highs have a bit more volume to them than the 6922EH. Basically the way I would characterize this tube is kind of like an _'de-digitizer'_. I don't know how to describe this better than this is almost like the sound has become more near-field speaker-like. It has a very nice overall feel. It's pretty open as is and the instrument seperation is very nice. This supposedly becomes even more-so with some burn-in. I feel that this tube would go over pretty well for someone looking for a reasonably clean and balanced sound with the slightest tube coloration and reasonably accurate sound. *Very well balanced tube. *Once the magic of the 6922EH's tube distortion wears off some I am sure that I'll be using this tube quite a bit. I'll continue to use it presently for it's very non-fatiguing sound. I'm hoping the soundstage opens up even more as while it's better than the 6922EH it's not as terribly drastic a change as going from solid state to tube. But maybe that's an unreasonable expectation. This is based off of 5 hours on the tube as I just got it today. That pretty much summarizes my first impressions. I really like it, but I'm kind of missing the tube-y coloration of the 6922EH.
  
 Edit: I am noticing more openess to the soundstage in electronic songs more than rock or classical, compared to the 6922EH. This has tube has a VERY smooth buttery tone.
  
 Edit 2:


ncsuzoso said:


> I'm glad you enjoy the T1, but you should know it is a SS amp with the tube only being use as a buffer, pretty much the tube is your EQ.  Everything that is driving your phones is SS.


 
 Yes. I'm aware of that. I didn't mean to give a different impression. I feel that the T1 is conveying the feel of a tube amp even though it is solid state thanks to the coloration the tube provides.
  
 Edit 3: Decided to revisit the first few songs I listened to with the Gold Lion to see if the limited time listening had done anything to the sound signature because I felt it had been opening up more over time. I feel like I was right. I feel the soundstage has indeed opened up by a fairly significant amount.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

> Once the magic of the 6922EH's tube distortion wears off some I am sure that I'll be using this tube quite a bit.


 
  
 Distortion?  The T1 is not using this a pre-amp or a power tube, so if you are getting distortion something is wrong here.  This is not like an all tube guitar amp where the distortion has a sweet/organic sound to it that no SS amp can ever produce, because this is a SS amp..  Maybe you are calling distortion something else, but if you think the tube in the T1 is giving you tube breakup like a true tube powered amp, something is wrong.
  
 Are yall paying $45-$50 for a current production tube made in China?  Are you not interested in hearing what a NOS tube sounds like?  We could recommend an exact replacement for that price, or even two you could try for the cost of that one GL.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> Distortion?  The T1 is not using this a pre-amp or a power tube, so if you are getting distortion something is wrong here.  This is not like an all tube guitar amp where the distortion has a sweet/organic sound to it that no SS amp can ever produce, because this is a SS amp..  Maybe you are calling distortion something else, but if you think the tube in the T1 is giving you tube breakup like a true tube powered amp, something is wrong.


 
 Doesn't the tube cause harmonic distortion even if it's being used as a buffer? I recall it produces even order harmonic distortion? Asking because I don't know myself, but I've also credited distortion with being the sweet tube sound.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

> A tube buffer, also known as a voltage or cathode follower, is a circuit whereby the high output impedance of the source is lowered so that it can be properly transferred to the lower input impedance load. The tube buffer has no voltage gain. It has current gain and, therefore, power gain. In audio electronics, it is normally used when our amplifier has enough gain but we still need a volume control with low output impedance.
> 
> Vacuum tubes are primarily voltage amplifiers so they do not work particularly well under large current loads. Where there is only one active device (tube) in single-ended mode, like here, excessive output current will always result in higher harmonic distortion. *Speaking of distortion, it should be noted that a properly implemented tube buffer will normally generate very little harmonic distortion, which will be predominantly even-order.*


 
  
 http://www.moxtone.com/Tube_buffer_en.html
  
 Note they are talking about a tube buffer in a much larger chain than we are dealing with here on the T1.  I for one know the sound of a tube breaking up very well, I own an all tube guitar amp (minus the rectifier and reverb, which make no difference) the Fender Blues Jr with Duncan Humbuckers, the BJr. is highly modified to allow for easy power tube distortion and uses a $200 England produced G12H speaker. 
  

  
  
 So maybe whatever break up you all are hearing is simply not tube distortion to someone who has listened to all tube many times.  My brother owns one of the $3000 vintage stereo all tube McIntosh receivers going into McIntosh floor standing speakers and I know how that tube breakup sounds and I have hundreds of hours with the T1 and multiple tubes, I have never once noticed anything I would slightly call tube distortion.  However nobody has perfect ears so it is possible I guess and Moxtone says even-order distortion is possible.


----------



## nScott89

ncsuzoso said:


> Distortion?  The T1 is not using this a pre-amp or a power tube, so if you are getting distortion something is wrong here.  This is not like an all tube guitar amp where the distortion has a sweet/organic sound to it that no SS amp can ever produce, because this is a SS amp..  Maybe you are calling distortion something else, but if you think the tube in the T1 is giving you tube breakup like a true tube powered amp, something is wrong.
> 
> Are yall paying $45-$50 for a current production tube made in China?  Are you not interested in hearing what a NOS tube sounds like?  We could recommend an exact replacement for that price, or even two you could try for the cost of that one GL.


 
 There's no heavy distortion or anything but the 6922EH does indeed add some significant texture especially noticable in the highs that indeed sounds slightly distorted but in a pleasant and enjoyable way. The Gold Lion does not do this at all. 
  
 I have several NOS tubes on the way. 2 NOS Amperex Orange Globes, NOS 6N23P, pair of NOS 6N23P Voskhod Rockets, and used Philips Miniwatt E188CC SQ with gold pins.  I'm just waiting on them to arrive.  I couldn't afford to get the Miniwatt NOS.
  
 Edit: Also I would like to point out I have no prior experience with tubes but what I'm hearing matches the idea of tube distortion which means nothing, of course. It's just a very textured sound that the 6922EH is giving in the highs. Maybe it's just a TON of sparkle? But I didn't expect that with the rolled off highs of this tube.
  
 Edit 2: The best way I can describe the treble on the 6922EH is that there is some sort of harmonic excitement going on even though the volume is rolled back. It's extremely noticeable A/Bing with the Gold Lion, which is extremely clean and free of distortion or superfluous sparkle. The Lion has some shimmer to it that the E07k was very lacking in but there's no granularity to it. It's studio tame. If the bands were a bit more flat I would call it analytically. It sounds very 'digital' as joeq70 said in the first post.


----------



## Bothand Nether

Great Thread Folx!
 Long time lurker, new poster. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I am considering getting getting a T1 MK2 or a Schiit Valhala shortly, thanx to You folx...I also had a thought...
  
*   **The issue with the channel imbalance on something like the Aune t1 channel imbalance may be due to one triode being stronger than the other,
    I'm only going to roll tubes with matched triodes if I get that particular circuit.
  
*The one other thing I'd like to add is that I sortof take issue with a comment that NCSUZoSo made*
*regarding tube rectification and reverb "not making a difference" *(but perhaps I may have mis-understood):
  
 Tube rectification does indeed make a great deal of difference.(some like it, some don't)
 ..it adds more sag than solid state does, but can also be noisier (depending on the tube)...
  
 I have a 1960 Gibson Titan, (often referred to as the poor man's 59 fender tweed deluxe)
 and believe me it has a vastly different sound when You swap rectifier tubes in it. (I even have an octal Solid State rectifier I can put in as well-big difference)
 It came with the original gibson tubes in it, but I use cryo'd Bendix 6106 rectifier & 2 5992 power tubes when I take it out.
The Bendix tubes were for atlas rockets & are extremely difficult to break (nomex glass,ceramic wafers), and are extremely quiet.

 I have a 1969 Fender bassman with SS tube rectification and the attack is much faster, 
lending itself to faster styles of music like most types of metal, for instance.
  
Also Tube reverb is a whole different beast than circuit board analog or digitally modeled reverb, & definitely makes a big difference.
 I use them all. ..but IMO there is nothing else like a properly tubed 1961 Fender 6G15 tube reverb unit....it's where reverb was born,prettymuch.
  
 And I was under the impression that even order distortion is a good thing,.... in my and many other's opinion.
 -But that subject is highly subjective to one's ears & application....
 It's what most people use tubes for, the warming effect on digital media... because that's what they offer, (especially pre- WWII tubes).
 I have access to a fairchild 660 & 670, and that is exactly why My friend outbid Beck for them.
  
 Also NCSUZoSo, I saw You have some nice tubes in Your Fender,
 I wanted to suggest some tubes that You may have already looked into:
  
 in place of the el84 power tubes, a direct replacement with slightly more oomph is the 7189 variant.
  
 & there are many variants for the 12AX7, Stevie Rae favored the 5751...
 -the Sylvania Gold Brand triple mica gold pin grey plate is the penultimate, but the 12AT7 (6201) is also quite nice.
  
*I am sorry about the wall of text, but I hope this is edifying to those that are interested.*
  
*Here is a link to my post on My tube experiences*
  
 a pic of My studio & will be linked in my intro thread, fwiw.
  
 /end rant


----------



## penmarker

In other news:
  

  
 I got myself a pair of HiVi Swans A30 desktop speakers and hooked them up to the T1. Sounds heavenly though my initial impressions when I first got them was "They sound weird."
 They certainly sound bigger than they actually are. Surprising honestly.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

bothand nether said:


> Also NCSUZoSo, I saw You have some nice tubes in Your Fender,
> I wanted to suggest some tubes that You may have already looked into:
> 
> in place of the el84 power tubes, a direct replacement with slightly more oomph is the 7189 variant.
> ...


 
  
 The tubes in my amp are a pair of 1964 GE 6BQ5s (EL84) that added a lot of the missing glassy sound the current production tubes lacked.  I have a 1968 12AY7 Sylvania in the V1 slot that gave me much more clean headroom and put a 1967 GE USAF 5751 (12AX7) in V2 and a 1962 GE 12AX7 to round it all out in V3.
  
 My pedal chain is:  BYOC Envelope Filter -> BYOC E.S.V. 2 Knob Bender -> Visual Sound Buffer -> Modded Crybaby Classic -> Phase 90 -> BBE Two Timer -> Hall of Fame Reverb with all Mogami 2524 and Gold LP cables (made by sellers on EBay, like Pro Audio LA)
  
 I was saying a tube powered reverb and tube rectifier won't have a distinguished effect on how tube breakup sounds in comparison to the discussion here.  Thanks for the links though, glad to see we have some T1 guitar players, maybe we need a separate thread haha.


----------



## nScott89

Hey guys. So I've had this Gelalex Gold Lion burning for 24 hours now. I must say that the soundstage has opened up a LOT and the instrument separation has increased pretty significantly as well. The bass has cleared up more than anything. The subbass is much more intelligible than it was. Not to say the volume has increased but I feel I can feel it better. It still feels a bit sterile but I think it has loosened up a good bit. I'm really starting to like this tube. Are there any more current production tubes that are great?
  
 In NOS news, I get my Miniwatt tomorrow and my Orange Globes the day after.  Can't wait!


----------



## rwpritchett

nscott89 said:


> Are there any more current production tubes that are great?




I'm still waiting for someone to try out one of the new production telefunken black diamond tubes and report back. They're a bit too much $$$ to purchase blindly for me when I can get vintage tubes for less. Anyone want to take the plunge?


----------



## nScott89

Does anyone know if a EL84 / 6BQ5 would work with the T1? I'm kind of curious. Would you need any sort of adapter/mods to run it?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

nscott89 said:


> Does anyone know if a EL84 / 6BQ5 would work with the T1? I'm kind of curious. Would you need any sort of adapter/mods to run it?


 
  
 No, there is no way it would work.  You are talking about a pentode power tube vs. all compatible tubes being dual triodes.


----------



## milan616

Finally got my replacement Mk2 and 24 bit shows up correctly now!


----------



## NCSUZoSo

And your ears can hear absolutely no difference in a blind test


----------



## nScott89

ncsuzoso said:


> And your ears can hear absolutely no difference in a blind test


 
 Indeed. 
  
_[Please recognize that this tube has not been burned it yet, but my initial impressions we based on the idea the tube had been burned in by previous owner. It's almost NOS.]_ Alrighty. Been listening to my Philips Miniwatt E188CC SQ for a few hours now.  I really enjoy this tube. First impression: "eh, this is alright". I was not initially terribly impressed with the tube for whatever reason. I decided to listen for a few hours to get a better feel of it. After that I put my Genalex back in to see if if there's a huge difference because I didn't really notice one initially. I have to say that as good as the Gold Lion is there is a pretty substantial midbass hump and even some muddiness that's hard to miss now that I've been using the Miniwatt. Also Gold Lion still has a bit of a sterile, digital sound. Too analytical for my tastes.
  
 This Miniwatt SQ tube does so many things right. There's a little bit of tube-y harmonic excitement in the highs, a little more shimmer than the Gold Lion also sparkle is more present here. Nothing like the 6922EH though. The Miniwatt highs are so much more realistic sounding than either the Gold Lion or EH.
  
 The Miniwatt's bass is substantial and very well extended and balanced (Listening to edIT - Battling Go-Go Yubari in Downtown L.A. at the moment and there's definitely punchy full bass here).
  
 The mids are pretty much spot on. A little bit more forward than the Lion. The level of detail is very nice as well. I definitely find this tube to be more musical than either of the previous tubes. Very realistic sound.
  
 Summary: At first I wasn't really terribly impressed with this tube but I'm definitely appreciating it a lot more now that I've done some more A/B and learned it. One of the things that the HD558 is known for is recessed low-low end. I find the subbass to be more present in this tube than the others. Midbass is very nicely done. Not overly loud. Tight and full. Mids are present and nicely up front. Highs are present, fast, shimmery, and very high frequencies tend to roll off a little bit but not excessively. Enough to say that they are not fatiguing at all.
  
 TL;DR? I love this tube. Definitely going to be used more than the Gold Lion although I see times when the 6922EH will still see some use. Especially with electronic music and some classic rock. 
  
 (OH MY GOD NP: Skrillex feat: Sirah - Kyoto is massaging my eardrums...... The bass is definitely tight, accurate, and very full. Roll call. Mr. Bass? Calling Mr. Bass. Oh... yes... There you are!)
  
 Tomorrow my Amperex Gold Globes come in.  So do my Soundmagic HP100's.  Now back to work for me.....
  
 Edit: I removed the inline resistor for this review, by the way, as I found the tube to be very muddy with it. On the other hand, it helped the other two tubes' signature significantly.  I shall perform more listening to the tube tonight.
  
 Edit 2: Apparently this tube only had 1 hour of burn on it when I bought it from the seller. That would explain why I wasn't exactly blown away by it initially. I was expecting a mature tube. Either way I am definitely enjoying listening to the tube and I'll be burning it in overnight as well. It's really turning into something quite special. I told my dad to listen to this and the Gold Lion and he said that this thing was much more realistic not knowing anything about the tubes.  "That little piece of glass cost $50?" "Yeah it's normally around $150-$175. It's 40 years old." He gets this huge smirk on his face with his lips pursed and just says "Oh." I think he likes it.


----------



## Bothand Nether

Thank You For This !


----------



## copajohn

I looked... very tempting.


----------



## copajohn

rwpritchett said:


> I'm still waiting for someone to try out one of the new production telefunken black diamond tubes and report back. They're a bit too much $$$ to purchase blindly for me when I can get vintage tubes for less. Anyone want to take the plunge?


----------



## nScott89

Soundmagic HP100 should be here today along with Amperex Orange Globes. 
  
 I would also be interested to hear impressions on the telefunken black diamonds. 
  
 Miniwatt update: Only getting better. Bass is very transparent. Mids are very forward if only mildly recessed. This varies significantly between tracks. The Gaslight Anthem - '59 Sound mids are very forward while "45" is mildly recessed. Treble is extremely pleasant yet realistic. Somewhat rolled off but certainly present. Still shimmering more than sparkling but I think that adds to the sense of 'thereness' the tube has. Instrument separation is really nice. Detailing is great. Snare drums are particularly sharp and fast. This tube is getting more and more musical. This tube 'seems' to adapt to whatever music I listen to. Metal/Alt/Rock/Jazz/Classical/Electronic. It does them all very well.
  


> Welcome to our fortress tall. Take some time to show you around.


 
  
 What a warm welcome indeed.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

The SoundMAGIC HP100s need at least 50-100 hours on them before you are really able to judge them, but for the money will be hard pressed to find something that is as good at Gaming/Movies/Music.  The sound stage is very impressive for a closed headphone and they are not extremely bass heavy like a lot of closed sets, although this may be because I am exclusively running my Siemens 6922 with them.  My Western Germany Amperex 6922 doesn't change that much though.  Most people are very happy with them (including me) and they are extremely comfortable.  I think you will like them a lot, what other phones do you have?


----------



## nScott89

As far as closed cans go, I have HD280s that I never use because they are so horribly overblown on the bass side. I gave them to my brother for him to use. I used to own Alessandro MS1. Grado sound signature wasn't for me. Highs were a bit too crashy. I've had lots of different earphones but presently I have Hifiman RE262 and VSonic GR07. I prefer the RE262 to the GR07 due to their comfort level. I don't really like the pivoting drivers. They always seemed to hurt my ears. I also had the HD555 in the past as well.
  
 The HP100 I bought has around 75 hours on it from what the seller said. I definitely plan on taking my time with them. Expect my initial impressons soon.


----------



## eobet

moriez said:


> Hey,
> 
> Just saw the notification of that my name's mentioned. I no longer have the Aune but bought it from Audiophonics.fr My first experience with them for another item was quite bad but with the Aune everything went smooth.


 
  
 Well, Audiophonics.fr doesn't seem to sell the MK2 in silver, and Amazon.uk doesn't ship to Sweden.
  
 Anyone else found silver MK2 in Europe from reliable sellers who don't require Paypal?


----------



## Bothand Nether

*A couple of nice tubes on eBay that I thought some of You might be interested in:*
  
*2 pcs NOS E188CC CV5354 7308 Siemens Halske 1960´s gold pins *
  
*The Swedish Military (Försvarsmakten) has always tested & "Rejuvenated" there tubes about every 6 years or so.*
  
*Be careful with the much-vaunted "Bugle Boy" amperex tubes, the chinese have appropriated some *
*of the non-essential equipment from matsu****a & are calling these original Bugle Boy tubes.*
  
*another tube type to look for is simply labelled as CCa......Here is a link to a Valvo version on ebay.*
  
*The ink on the fakes will not wipe off, the real ones have a chalky ink on them that wipes off rater easily, I know  *
  
*I have a connection in the **Försvarsmakten** that I get my tubes from, *
*- they often come in metal tube containers with screw top lids & with an outermost label showing 1979,*
*but the bottom most label underneath was dated 1959....*


----------



## Levaix

nscott89 said:


> As far as closed cans go, I have HD280s that I never use because they are so horribly overblown on the bass side.


 
 Slightly off-topic, but I've heard this from a few people, and I have to wonder if the pair I've heard was just broken or something. But then at the same time you see lots of user reviews complaining that the bass is anemic.


----------



## nScott89

rwpritchett said:


> I'm still waiting for someone to try out one of the new production telefunken black diamond tubes and report back. They're a bit too much $$$ to purchase blindly for me when I can get vintage tubes for less. Anyone want to take the plunge?


 
   
 You might be interested to read this. You can probably save your money (for once?). 
  
 Quote:


mordy said:


> Hi TD,
> 
> OK, the TF Black Diamond tubes have gold plated pins, but still made by JJ tubes.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Listening to the HP100 on my T1. Right now I don't want to make any comments other than that these cans don't really like my head although they sound great....


----------



## penmarker

Someone locally is selling the Lovely Cube Premium, any idea on how it would pair with the Aune T1? Pretty interested since the price is pretty cheap.
 Impressions thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/501046/the-lovely-cube-headphone-amp-lehmann-black-cube-linear-clone


----------



## Levaix

penmarker said:


> Someone locally is selling the Lovely Cube Premium, any idea on how it would pair with the Aune T1? Pretty interested since the price is pretty cheap.
> Impressions thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/501046/the-lovely-cube-headphone-amp-lehmann-black-cube-linear-clone


 
 Honestly, the amp in the Aune is pretty basic. If it's cheap, grab it. Worst case, you don't like it, sell it to someone else. I was kind of in the same boat when I got my KICAS, don't regret it at all.


----------



## PETEREK

Just giving my T1 a listen tonight for the first time after getting it in the mail a few days ago. So far it's great, I can hear what I was missing by just using an amp connected to my computer without a DAC.  I have an Amperex 7308 tube in it right now. Anyway I'm listening to my Takstar hi-2050 with Audio Technica AD2000 drivers and it's just awesome. I'm loving the bass it's bring out in these headphones.


----------



## penmarker

levaix said:


> Honestly, the amp in the Aune is pretty basic. If it's cheap, grab it. Worst case, you don't like it, sell it to someone else. I was kind of in the same boat when I got my KICAS, don't regret it at all.


 
 I thought so. But still I would love to know if anyone has experience with the Lovely Cube Premium compared to the Aune.
  


peterek said:


> Just giving my T1 a listen tonight for the first time after getting it in the mail a few days ago. So far it's great, I can hear what I was missing by just using an amp connected to my computer without a DAC.  I have an Amperex 7308 tube in it right now. Anyway I'm listening to my Takstar hi-2050 with Audio Technica AD2000 drivers and it's just awesome. I'm loving the bass it's bring out in these headphones.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 HAH! I knew it! I was so weirded out looking at your headphones in the other thread I was like "Those are Beyer frames but why does it has what looks like a Hifiman HE-400 cups and grills?"
 How do you pull off the mods anyway? May I know the parts list?


----------



## PETEREK

penmarker said:


> I thought so. But still I would love to know if anyone has experience with the Lovely Cube Premium compared to the Aune.
> 
> HAH! I knew it! I was so weirded out looking at your headphones in the other thread I was like "Those are Beyer frames but why does it has what looks like a Hifiman HE-400 cups and grills?"
> How do you pull off the mods anyway? May I know the parts list?


 
 I get the mesh for the grill through my job, it's something bought in bulk, I don't really know how to get it otherwise. You can call up Audio Technica and oder the AD2000 drivers for $45 a piece which is a freaking steal. Other internal mods are just a little dampening with fiberloft and the HM5 pleather pads. I painted the rings blue too obviously. And actually, they aren't Beyers at all, they're Takstar which is an OEM company that makes their own headphones now. 
  
 How do I do it? Patience. And also, inspiration through Folex. Haha


----------



## penmarker

Impressive 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 the camera angle made the cups look rounder than they are, that's why I thought they were Hifiman's cups on Beyer frames. I've met someone locally who had the HI2050 and auditioned them for a while and they were wonderful. Powered through a FiiO E11, it sounds ok except for the weak top end extension. We were in a crowded coffee shop anyway so I may have been wrong, also it was a long time ago.
 Impressive cans those HI2050, cheap but sounds great.


----------



## PETEREK

They have AD2000 drivers in them. They are a totally different headphone now.


----------



## ppdv

eobet said:


> Well, Audiophonics.fr doesn't seem to sell the MK2 in silver, and Amazon.uk doesn't ship to Sweden.
> 
> Anyone else found silver MK2 in Europe from reliable sellers who don't require Paypal?


 
  
 Hi eobet,
  
 I got my Aune T1 from a dealer here in Netherlands. They do accept bank transfers (iDEAL), which was the method i used to pay them.
 Here is the link for the same http://www.hifistudio79.nl/nl/stereo/dac-usb/aune-t1-24bit-96khz-tube-amplifier-usb-dac.html
  
 You can ask them if they ship to Sweden and they have listed it as a sale, not sure when the prices in amazon are almost the same as the sale price. Have been using the unit from December 2013 and they do have warranty terms as well.
  
 Hope this helps.
  
 Regards,
 PD


----------



## MrEleventy

penmarker said:


> Impressive   the camera angle made the cups look rounder than they are, that's why I thought they were Hifiman's cups on Beyer frames. I've met someone locally who had the HI2050 and auditioned them for a while and they were wonderful. Powered through a FiiO E11, it sounds ok except for the weak top end extension. We were in a crowded coffee shop anyway so I may have been wrong, also it was a long time ago.
> Impressive cans those HI2050, cheap but sounds great.


I think it's your situation/location. Ppl in the takstar thread have complained about the "piercing" treble. I never had issues with the highs but I think that's because I had a whole stable of treble piercers aka Beyerdynamics.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

One thing I want to say to anyone looking at tubes for the Aune T1 after noticing lots of people recently getting the Amperex 7308.  That Amperex is a good/great tube (depending on your sample), but it is pretty much like headphones, nothing is perfect for everyone.  Many people who listen to bass heavy music or play a lot of bass heavy games/movies would not like my Siemens 6922 because it lacks a little on the bass side, however nothing I have had in my hands yet matches it for anything else.  It has this airiness that is hard to describe without hearing it that all my other tubes have lacked (West German Amperex 6922, JAN Philips 6922, GE Smokie) in the mid to upper ranges that makes for a very pleasant listening experience and not fatiguing at all, even with large amounts of guitar at high volumes (this is where I notice it the most).  When describing it most people think it would be the obvious choice for orchestra/classical/jazz/bluegrass, which it is awesome at all of those, however I love it because it almost allows a lead guitar to cut through the mix more naturally than any other tube I have had (which is only 4, but 4 highly rated and recommended ones) in comparison to hearing the same songs live in person.
  
 Basically I just don't want to see everyone who is coming into the thread in the future to just all start getting Amperex 7308 tubes because that is what everyone has been buying recently, lol.  I would love to give that tube a try and I may once I have the extra funds again.  For now my time rolling hardware is at a stop, which is fine by me because I am very happy with the product I ended up with after all the capacitor changes and all the tubes.


----------



## Bothand Nether

I just feel the need to add a few things, once again.
  
 When one speaks of the 7308 (E188CC), that there are a few different ones :
  
 Amperex 7308PQ Red Label, Gold Pins (Joint Army Navy, United States Navy) 
  
 Amperex 7308PQ White Label, USN-CEP Gold Pins (Joint Army Navy, United States Navy) made in U.S.A. only. These may be the best of this variant.
  
 Amperex 7308PQ Red Label Gold Pins (Joint Army Navy, United States Navy)

 Amperex 7308 JAN  Green Label
  
 Amperex 7308 Orange Globe
  
 By date released it was White, Red, Orange, then green, if I recall correctly.
  
*By far the most important feature of the 7308 valve are the Tightly Matched Triodes, both within the individual envelope, and more importantly, within different batches.
 That is what sets it apart from all the other variants.*
  
 I'm not familiar enough with listening to these variants (yet) to say if matched triodes are of use in the buffer stage of the Aune,
 but I can say that equally matching specs from tube to tube is very useful in most stereo reference monitoring.

 My requirements for referencing tubes are quite different than for My playing tubes,
 I need neutrality & silence in my listening chain, and warm saturation, power & silence in my playing tubes.

 Also, don't just rely on a name brand or specific variant to get a particular sound, 
 I have entire sleeves of sequentially matched NOS 12AX7s,
 and each one tests & sounds different in My reference tube rolling amp.

 Many people revered the Telefunken 12AX7...not knowing that it was an overly bright tube
 -because It tends to make old amps with old caps/resistors "come back to life".
 I don't prefer them in My Emery Microbaby.
  
 My sort-of point is that one man's NOS treasure may be another man's trash
 ...depending on the needs of the circuit & the variables in one's signal chain.


JAN and USN (gold pins)


----------



## Vanquished

If someone is interested I have two military Tesla E88CC CCa 6922 Not JJ( don't know what this JJ means), they were matched pair NOS, I used the one for a couple of days, but I prefer the sound of my Amperex ECC88 (6DJ8)  “UFO”-getter tube. The other one is still NOS.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I'm interested, but I need HQ pictures of it showing the etching on the bottom and any other markings on the tube.  It is very hard to prove a genuine CCa, I need to know what you paid for it and where you bought it in a PM to even consider it.
  
  
 Let me know.


----------



## Bothand Nether

Also, if they have crossed swords (military grade), and if the print comes off easily or not.




 If they were made in the 80's if they have white lettering, and will have a 2 digit # indicating the point of origin.
  
 I am vacillating between the Aune MK2 and a Schiit Valhala 2... quite torn.
 if any of You lot have both I'd sure like to hear what You have to say about them both.

 The 410 page thread on this unit is what brought Me into this wonderful community.

 now back to the reading of this thread & the Valhala Tube rolling novel.


----------



## Vanquished

Tesla looks like this :


----------



## Bothand Nether

The 37 indicates the factory of origin...These were made in the Trinek plant in Czechoslovakia,
 don't know that date code of DE, though.


----------



## Hansotek

New discovery! I didn't expect this to work, but it totally did! Today I tried this combo:

T1 (DAC section only (w/ Amperex 7308)) > Schiit Lyr (stock tubes) > HD650 and Beyer DT880 600 ohm

Honestly, I've never heard better sound out of either headphone. I've used both out of the T1, and both out of ODAC>Lyr, but I just assumed the different tubes would make the T1>Lyr combo sound like poop. Never have I been so wrong! 

Quick impressions: 
DT880 - The definitive experience of this headphone. Retains the Amperex's massive soundstage but further smoothes out the highs for gorgeous sound PLUS detail. The true gift is in the bass - all of the detail and articulation of the DT880 with POWERFUL thump and extention all the way down to the deepest notes. Ribbon tight, but tons of impact. I think it beats the HE400's bass out of the T1's amp section, and that's saying something! Just crazy, crazy good.

HD650 - The absolute best sound I have ever heard out of a headphone. Hands down. I must confess, I didn't like what ODAC did with the Lyr and HD650, I ended up running Lyr out of my Macbook Pro's headphone jack more often than not, but T1>Lyr>HD650 is like velvet. The very definition of euphonic. I tried the HD650 straight out of the T1 and found it very veiled. The Lyr made it my favorite headphone. T1 (w/ Amperex) > Lyr > HD650 took it to another level today. This is what transparency means. It is just you and the music. The headphone disappears. I've never heard such sweet midrange. Such absence of grain. And the soundstage! It just emerses you. It's like you are swimming in the music. And the BASS! The best I have ever heard, bar none. Just pure, pure joy.

I'm not very familiar with tube matching and how that all works... maybe I just hit the tube lottery. If it's dumb luck, I'll take it. But I will tell you this, I know my ears, and what I heard today was truly special. I guess the old phrase rings true, don't knock it until you try it.


----------



## mikoss

hansotek said:


> HD650 - The absolute best sound I have ever heard out of a headphone. Hands down. I must confess, I didn't like what ODAC did with the Lyr and HD650, I ended up running Lyr out of my Macbook Pro's headphone jack more often than not, but T1>Lyr>HD650 is like velvet. The very definition of euphonic. I tried the HD650 straight out of the T1 and found it very veiled. The Lyr made it my favorite headphone. T1 (w/ Amperex) > Lyr > HD650 took it to another level today. This is what transparency means. It is just you and the music. The headphone disappears. I've never heard such sweet midrange. Such absence of grain. And the soundstage! It just emerses you. It's like you are swimming in the music. And the BASS! The best I have ever heard, bar none. Just pure, pure joy.


 
 Yep, sounds like you've discovered why I can't "upgrade" from my 650's...
  
 I would also suggest that you might enjoy the T1 with Panasonic FR & ELNA Silmic II capacitors instead of the stock ones. I think it takes it to an entirely new level, improving on everything I love about the headphones with the T1. 
  
 I wonder how the Lyr would sound rolling in some NOS tubes as well... hmmmm I may have to try out the T1-> Lyr myself.


----------



## Hansotek

DO IT!!! I've read everywhere that the HD650 scales up well, but.... Wow, just wow!

Like I said, I might have gotten lucky with the tube match-up, but I feel like there's summit-fi potential here. Certainly the best I've heard. There's a good chance I might try rolling more tubes in this combo in the future, but I just spent my next few months of audio budget on the HE500 the other day. I can't wait to hear that with this combo! 

Do you have a link and/or commentary on the NOS tubes? I'm pretty new to tube rolling.

I don't doubt you one bit on the capacitors comment. I've amp-rolled the T1's DAC into several different amps, every single one has been better than the stock amp section. It's a servicible, albeit bright, CMOY IMO. Even a JDS Labs 2x 9V provids a tremendous upgrade over the stock amp section IMO.


----------



## Vanquished

bothand nether said:


> The 37 indicates the factory of origin...These were made in the Trinek plant in Czechoslovakia,
> don't know that date code of DE, though.


 
 They have different codes. They may be are not CCa, because they aren't expensives.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

CCa is one the hardest tubes to identify and one of the most faked.  This is mainly because you can easily get $150-$200+ per tube due to their rarity and notoriety in the audio department.
  
 My tube was labeled as a possible CCa on Ebay and the seller admitted he could not verify it because the plate codes didn't exactly match a CCa.  However I am willing to give one of those a try for the right price.
  
 Guys I was looking at something else for my T1.  Since I use the SoundMAGIC HP100 that has a unique headphone connection that can't be upgraded or changed and sometimes I need more distance from the T1 without putting stress on the unit. 
  
 I was looking at this Mogami headphone extension: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120675145777?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  
 However I am worried the cable may be heavy enough to cause the unit to tilt or put too much stress on the headphone jack.  Any opinions on using this for an extension on the HP100 with the T1?


----------



## penmarker

You're worried about the coil pulling and tugging the jack off from the amp aren't you. Don't worry just get the cable extension and it'll be fine. The connection is 1/8th of an inch, studios use them all the time and the cables are always stretched and bent and pulled sideways. The jack can take it. Where is the amp located on your desk? Is the rubber feet sticky enough to let it sit firm on the desk?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

It is sitting between my center channel and my PC (the only place possible on my desk) and actually has no rubber feet on it currently because I need to dremel where the dip switches are supposed to go through the base.  After changing the caps on the amp board it is barely off perfect.  So I guess before using that cable I need to put the bottom back on, lol  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
  
 However don't worry about my tube, I have the TubeMonger silicon filled base and also using two ring dampers on the tube.  I did this originally due to the vibration encountered by my home theater setup which is all around the T1.  Maybe I should figure out a way to get the entire unit away from the vibration of 2 subs an 5 speakers, with the Definitive Technology C/L/R 2002 sitting directly next to it.
  
 Also yea, I don't like the idea of a coiled cable pulling itself straight while I move so I have to hold where the coil starts when I am moving too far from the unit.  The unit is about a foot from where I am in terms of across the desk.


----------



## Tamirci

Guys, just before buying this (and selling mine Beresford Gatorized) I need to know it. How will I connect my ibasso dx90 thus make it a transport?
 Using Beresford, it had coax in option so I could connect my dx90 as a transport device.


----------



## penmarker

tamirci said:


> Guys, just before buying this (and selling mine Beresford Gatorized) I need to know it. How will I connect my ibasso dx90 thus make it a transport?
> Using Beresford, it had coax in option so I could connect my dx90 as a transport device.


 
 The Aune T1 only has USB in and no SPDIF or Coaxial In. Maybe you can find if there's such a thing as Coax to USB converter?


----------



## MrEleventy

tamirci said:


> Guys, just before buying this (and selling mine Beresford Gatorized) I need to know it. How will I connect my ibasso dx90 thus make it a transport?
> Using Beresford, it had coax in option so I could connect my dx90 as a transport device.


I can't personally test it out but I believe the DX90 has a dac mode that enables it to be used as a dac via usb from a computer, maybe a micro usb to USB B would work.

E: Well, shipped off my Aune T1 & tubes collection. Upgrading to a Schiit Bifrost. It's been fun guys. Keep rolling dem tubes.


----------



## Emilijus

Hello guys,
 Im new AuneT1+Gold Lion user - and as i listen it - i noticed some of the random glitches sometimes, like x3 in 8 hours or so. Its realy not a song or something (i rewinded and its gone), this never happened before with any settups etc. So lets say - random song plays and for part of a second its some sort of ...crack, glitch sound appears super rarely.
 So what it might be?
 Tube is almost new, i used it for about 30-40 hours.


----------



## sandab

emilijus said:


> i noticed some of the random glitches sometimes, like x3 in 8 hours or so. Its realy not a song or something (i rewinded and its gone), this never happened before with any settups etc. So lets say - random song plays and for part of a second its some sort of ...crack, glitch sound appears super rarely.
> So what it might be?


 
 USB data error?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mreleventy said:


> I can't personally test it out but I believe the DX90 has a dac mode that enables it to be used as a dac via usb from a computer, maybe a micro usb to USB B would work.
> 
> E: Well, shipped off my Aune T1 & tubes collection. Upgrading to a Schiit Bifrost. It's been fun guys. Keep rolling dem tubes.


 
  
  
 Awww, you know you will still be using it somewhere!


----------



## caco

Hi. I played a little with an external DAC (UD110 V2) and the “LINE INPUT” of my new MK2 T1. I used the frontal headphone output and, if my ears did not betray my brain, it sounded superb! Does anyone know if the T1 is still amplifying the signal with the tube? I’m using a 6DJ8 orange globe (“A” Getter) Amperex tube. Thanks...


----------



## MrEleventy

caco said:


> Hi. I played a little with an external DAC (UD110 V2) and the “LINE INPUT” of my new MK2 T1. I used the frontal headphone output and, if my ears did not betray my brain, it sounded superb! Does anyone know if the T1 is still amplifying the signal with the tube? I’m using a 6DJ8 orange globe (“A” Getter) Amperex tube. Thanks...


No, tube is used via usb only. 




ncsuzoso said:


> Awww, you know you will still be using it somewhere!


I thought about keeping it for home... but I have a curious 3 yo and a curious 5 month old. it's going to be YEARS before I'm going to have tubes at home. lol


----------



## rwpritchett

rwpritchett said:


> I just pulled the trigger on some Rocket logos from the Ukraine seller with the little trees.




I received my rocket logo tubes a couple days ago. Shipping from Ukraine to US took about 2 weeks. High quality tubes, I can vouch for the eBay tube seller with the little trees (electric_brilliance_llc) if anyone is looking for some vintage Russian made tubes.


----------



## mikoss

Hey peeps,
  
 I've written a guide to upgrade the capacitors inside the Aune T1.
  
Here is a link via Google Drive or if you prefer, you may download the pdf here. 
  
 Please let me know your thoughts!


----------



## sandab

mikoss said:


> Hey peeps,
> 
> I've written a guide to upgrade the capacitors inside the Aune T1.
> 
> ...


 
 Well done!
  
 Someone like me without friends (wait, did I think that out loud?!) will likely find a third-hand type grip like a Panavise an exceedingly good investment.


----------



## SirMarc

mikoss said:


> Hey peeps,
> 
> I've written a guide to upgrade the capacitors inside the Aune T1.
> 
> ...


Does this help on the dac side also? Just curious, because I'm using an external amp and it sounds awesome with my hd580's


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> Hey peeps,
> 
> I've written a guide to upgrade the capacitors inside the Aune T1.
> 
> ...


 
  
 I didn't read it (watching a movie), but I scanned it over and the first thing that jumped out at me is you need better pictures.  Instead of just showing general shots of the PCB you should show when all the caps are removed and then show a few in progress pictures with a final picture showing all new caps installed.  I may be able to supply you with a few, but my capacitors don't look the same and some of mine had Cerafines in them before going to SILMICs.
  
 One other thing, the method you went with is not normal on picking any capacitor height you want and then raising the the unit from the base.  Nothing wrong with it, but it is more work than most of us put into the capacitor mod.
  


sirmarc said:


> Does this help on the dac side also? Just curious, because I'm using an external amp and it sounds awesome with my hd580's


 
  
 Yes it helps the DAC side, you replace 4 caps on the DAC PCB and 4 on the amp PCB.


----------



## mikoss

sirmarc said:


> Does this help on the dac side also? Just curious, because I'm using an external amp and it sounds awesome with my hd580's


 
 Definitely, in my opinion, it improves the DAC immensely.
  


ncsuzoso said:


> I didn't read it (watching a movie), but I scanned it over and the first thing that jumped out at me is you need better pictures.  Instead of just showing general shots of the PCB you should show when all the caps are removed and then show a few in progress pictures with a final picture showing all new caps installed.  I may be able to supply you with a few, but my capacitors don't look the same and some of mine had Cerafines in them before going to SILMICs.
> 
> One other thing, the method you went with is not normal on picking any capacitor height you want and then raising the the unit from the base.  Nothing wrong with it, but it is more work than most of us put into the capacitor mod.


 
 Awesome, thanks for the tips. Feel free to PM over some pics and I'll add them in. I was too busy trying to get everything soldered the last couple of times and didn't get a chance to grab some "action" shots.


----------



## SirMarc

Cool, thanks


----------



## xkonfuzed

mikoss said:


> Hey peeps,
> 
> I've written a guide to upgrade the capacitors inside the Aune T1.
> 
> ...




Nice job. A lot of work put into that guide.

Also, this definitely NEEDS to be in Salvatore's helpful links post.


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> Hey peeps,
> 
> I've written a guide to upgrade the capacitors inside the Aune T1.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Just downloaded this out of curiosity, and it looks awesome!!
  
 I'd very much like to try this DIY (mostly because I'm curious as F, and I do got a little DIY fever). However I'm a novice in soldering, especially in small components. Can you tell me straight up:
  
 - What's the risk I'm expecting, should I F-ed up? Brick the unit?
 - Should I succeed, what changes in the sound would I get? I mean, more clarity? Wider soundstage? Better frequency separations?
  
 Oh, and if I do decide to do this, I could also take some pictures of the work in progress...


----------



## teb1013

After years of waiting I got HD600s just today. As with my HD558s I am using the Aune T1 with Amperex 7308 and will be primarily listening to classical, jazz and classic rock. I must turn the T1 up quite a bit to get similar volume with 0 gain. What gain do other 600 users use? Is it better to turn up vol or increase gain? I currently have these up to about 2/3 up to give similar vol to the 558s at over 1/3 vol.


----------



## meowmix4jo

sandab said:


> Well done!
> 
> Someone like me without friends (wait, did I think that out loud?!) will likely find a third-hand type grip like a Panavise an exceedingly good investment.




Board holders definitely help a lot. So does a desoldering pump.


----------



## PETEREK

Helping hands are a must when doing DIY audio stuff. I just put mine to work when I put a new cable on my co-workers "shower speakers".


----------



## SirMarc

teb1013 said:


> After years of waiting I got HD600s just today. As with my HD558s I am using the Aune T1 with Amperex 7308 and will be primarily listening to classical, jazz and classic rock. I must turn the T1 up quite a bit to get similar volume with 0 gain. What gain do other 600 users use? Is it better to turn up vol or increase gain? I currently have these up to about 2/3 up to give similar vol to the 558s at over 1/3 vol.


I have hd580's, which are the older versions of your 600's(same drivers) I found they sounded best at full gain, thought the music sounded thin at lower gains. I also use the 7308 and listen to mostly classic rock. Check out a band called porcupine tree, their mid to later stuff sounds ridiculously good with this set up


----------



## teb1013

Thanks, I'll give it a listen!


----------



## Roelio

So much reply's on this Aune T1 that I will take a good evening reading all 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 From my understanding this is almost the best Amp (tube) + Dac for my Desktop PC that still is affordable.
 One question will this be a smart move with a Ultrasone Pro 900 headphone? Low 40 impedance.
  
 For all the people that are active in this topic great respect and thanks !
  
 ps. I love some good bass in music and listen to almost everything. For me it's important that it has great overall clarity while keeping it fun with good Bass and mid's. I don't love to much overwhelming high actually. But if it has to be there than I don't wan't it to increase it. (sorry for my bad English and explanation I'm still learning how to express out my personal taste)


----------



## SpiderNhan

roelio said:


> So much reply's on this Aune T1 that I will take a good evening reading all
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 My T1 shipped with the all the gain switches set to ON and I had to disable first because it was much too loud for my low impedance(32 ohm) headphones. Others have reported the same thing regarding the gain switches. If you want to tame the highs of the T1 then you'll be doing that by swapping out the stock tube with different ones. There are tons of impressions on which of tubes sounds like what. I suggest the Holland made Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8. Really helps mellow out the highs on my AKG Q701 while have a good amount of bass body,


----------



## SirMarc

teb1013 said:


> Thanks, I'll give it a listen!


problem with the porcupine tree stuff is it sounds so good, most of my classic rock stuff sounds like crap and I end up putting oone of their albums on lol. Just getting into them so its cool though. I would start with the album in absentia. Curious to see what you think...


----------



## Roelio

@SpiderNhan
  
 Thanks for the info ! Changing the tube can make it even more personal I figure. 
 I was looking at the *Bravo Audio - V1 - Class A Tube Headphone Amplifier *this is only a AMP and no DAC.
 I'm still not sure if I really need to pay the extra money for a DAC... 
  
 My Asus Motherboard got the AD2000B sound chip and it's one of the best on board chip's.
  
 But damn.... You gotta love the looks of a small tube amp


----------



## penmarker

roelio said:


> @SpiderNhan
> 
> Thanks for the info ! Changing the tube can make it even more personal I figure.
> I was looking at the *Bravo Audio - V1 - Class A Tube Headphone Amplifier *this is only a AMP and no DAC.
> ...


 
 You need to audition yourself whether you'll need a DAC or not. Someone here and in another thread had pointed out that they're getting minimal gains from their DAC purchase. One guy had the Aune T1, and another guy was using something else I don't remember. They were both using Macbooks as source, so I assume Macbooks has good quality onboard processor. It might be that case for you too.
  
 Only problem is to get a DAC home to test. Not sure how you can get people to loan one to you.


----------



## Roelio

@penmarker
  
 That's the struggle I'm having the last 4 day's. I read almost everything here about DAC vs Soundcard's etz. And googled my ass off...
  
 The only benefit I have now is that I can still use a equalizer and some Sonic Focus dynamic bass function's. If I use a DAC I'll loose the Fonic Focus but it would still be possible to use a equalizer while listening to music and play games right??
  
 Also I get the feeling that a good quality DAC will always be better then a on board or sound card device... Just because it's made for Stereo audio only and doesn't get any interference with other hardware/noise.. You only have to be sure that there won't be any DPC latency with other USB devices.
  
 Greetings and thanks for the help.
  
 Ps. I just found out that it's a Tube DAC and not a Tube Amp..... HMMMMM interesting at least !
  
 Roelio


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> Hey peeps,
> 
> I've written a guide to upgrade the capacitors inside the Aune T1.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Finally gave this cap upgrade project a shot.
  
 Couldn't find ELNA Silmic, as specified, so I used ELNA Cerafine.
  
 Took 4 hours, with my novice soldering skill. I actually managed to squeeze all the caps inside the original case (didn't have to add the space in the bottom plate)
  

  
 From a few minutes of testing with songs, my initial impression is it got wider soundstage, the mid frequency range got boosted a little (I'm using HE400, which is a bit low on mids). I'll post more about this later. It's 4.30AM here, gotta get some shut eyes....


----------



## Roelio

Omg that looks insane  But if it fit in the end and makes a lot of difference well good job !!!! 
  
 I'm almost certain I'll buy the T1... Because I love modding and working on hardware myself too


----------



## creatip

roelio said:


> Omg that looks insane  But if it fit in the end and makes a lot of difference well good job !!!!
> 
> I'm almost certain I'll buy the T1... Because I love modding and working on hardware myself too


 
  
 -5 for aesthetics, if I say so myself, but hey, at least it's covered up real tight in the end...
  
 It sounds more like solid state device now, to be honest, and I don't know if I'd prefer this new version than the original version. I guess I'd have to give it some time, maybe to wait for the caps to break-in completely.


----------



## rwpritchett

FWIW I have both the Aune T1 (MK1) and a Bravo V1.

Both sound really good. Although at least in my setup, the T1 has a far better black, dead quiet, background. My V1 amp has a buzz to it, and it is very sensitive to interference. For example, any cell phone or bluetooth near it will get picked up.


----------



## mikoss

Great job @creatip - as for the Cerafine's, I've heard they're faster than the Silmic II's, so maybe that is why it sounds more SS? I really have a tough time with SS amps myself, and comparing the T1 with Silmic II's to the Aune X1, I much preferred the T1's presentation (same DAC chip in the T1 and X1; I found the X1 stock to be wider in soundstage, but crisper in the highs, much less refinement and sparkle). I've never heard Cerafine's myself so have no idea, but I did find the Silmic II's to take a good 100 hours to completely settle out. 
  
  
 edit: Wow. I think you nailed exactly what this poster said after comparing a bunch of caps and being torn between Cerafines and Silmic II's... from him:
  
 Elna Cerafine: The midrange is really pushed to the front with the Cerafine’s, vocals now sit out in front of the speakers into the room. The upper mids and high end have what I would call an open window to the music. Let me explain, there is a small jazz band playing in a building and you are standing outside the window listening, you can hear the music quite well, now you open the window now you can really hear it, there is nothing between you and the music. That is how the Cerafine’s sound in the upper midrange and out to the high end, I have not really heard better. They better the Silmics in 2 area’s and both have to do with detail, the high end of the Cerafine’s are just a tad more open and detailed giving you an even closer sound to the real thing. The other is in low bass detail and articulation, they are not as strong in the lowest octave as the Silmics but what is there is very detailed. The Cerafine’s do not have the lush smooth tube sound of the Silmics but sound like the best that solid state can offer.
  
 Worth a read if anyone is interested: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-381961.html


----------



## nScott89

OK guys. Bit of a find here I think. I've found a little piece of heaven on a budget. I'm running the VSonic R02 Silver and a non-rocket Russian 6N23P. The R02 Silver is a pretty mid-centric earphone but the 6N23P recesses the mids pretty decently. to make it seem much more neutral. The bass is pretty neutral with significant impact. Anyone have this combo to verify? The highs are very nicely sparkled but they've become more recessed I think. The feel very much in line with the drums though so this is a pretty good thing. The tube and earphones are new so take that into account. Definitely fun sounding and nothing glaringly obvious to me is missing here. I think the mids were definitely brought more neutral but are still forward. (I like forward mids :3) And I love the overall soundstage and atmosphere the tube provides. Very much fun for rock. A- combination. Very nice tube decay but very pretty fast. Me like.... I feel bad that I'm not listening to my A83 though. :s
  
 Edit: Also great with dubstep too by the way. Very good rumble and hard hitting when needed. Adroa - Decimation is very nicely done.
  
 If you need bright presentation avoid this combo. There's definitely a dry nature to this combination. Me like. Warm and dry. Like a good Scotch.


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> edit: Wow. I think you nailed exactly what this poster said after comparing a bunch of caps and being torn between Cerafines and Silmic II's... from him:
> 
> Elna Cerafine: The midrange is really pushed to the front with the Cerafine’s, vocals now sit out in front of the speakers into the room. The upper mids and high end have what I would call an open window to the music. Let me explain, there is a small jazz band playing in a building and you are standing outside the window listening, you can hear the music quite well, now you open the window now you can really hear it, there is nothing between you and the music. That is how the Cerafine’s sound in the upper midrange and out to the high end, I have not really heard better. They better the Silmics in 2 area’s and both have to do with detail, the high end of the Cerafine’s are just a tad more open and detailed giving you an even closer sound to the real thing. The other is in low bass detail and articulation, they are not as strong in the lowest octave as the Silmics but what is there is very detailed. The Cerafine’s do not have the lush smooth tube sound of the Silmics but sound like the best that solid state can offer.
> 
> Worth a read if anyone is interested: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-381961.html


 
  
 Hey, thanks for the comment. Yeah, I might be rushing too much when I shopped for the caps, getting the Cerafine instead of the Silmic. I thought they only differ in version (1 being older version). Later googling revealed the insides are using different materials, which is very logical why they would sound very different, I think. I found another local online store that carries Silmic II, but that would be another $20, even pricier than the Cerafine set. I'm still considering getting them or not. It's not so much because of the $20, but if I do get the Silmic, then I'd waste a new Cerafine set...
  
 I took some step by step pictures, I'll post them after I sort and edit them.
  
 1 more question, as for the Panasonic caps, I couldn't find any FR caps, so I used M caps (the blue ones), quite a lot cheaper, but that's what I could find. Do they play an important part in shaping the sounds? In other words, is it imperative that I use FR caps instead of M caps?
  
 Put simply, I'm aiming at the warmness sound of tubes. Frankly, I don't really like what I got from the Cerafine. Not that it sounds bad (it's far more detailed and wider than the original caps, actually), but like you posted, sounds too much of solid state for me. 
  
 Thank you.


----------



## Levaix

roelio said:


> One question will this be a smart move with a Ultrasone Pro 900 headphone? Low 40 impedance.


 
 Short answer: yes. You're not hearing the Pro 900's full power unless you have it amped. Speaking from experience, this is a good combo.


----------



## Roelio

@rwpritchett Thanks so much for your feedback, static noise from GPRS and 3G is a no go for me...
  
 @Levaix You made me smile a bit, after so much searching my feeling about the pro 900 with this device get's even better.. Also I can get a second hand for 70 Euro and a new one for 120 Euro with warranty. 
  
 This must be happening for a reason ^^


----------



## SirMarc

Thinking about an Asgard 2 to replace my vintage receiver as an amp for the T1. Anyone try this combo? It sounds great right now, but takes up a ton of space on my coffee table. Thanks
Marc


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> edit: Wow. I think you nailed exactly what this poster said after comparing a bunch of caps and being torn between Cerafines and Silmic II's... from him:
> 
> Elna Cerafine: The midrange is really pushed to the front with the Cerafine’s, vocals now sit out in front of the speakers into the room. The upper mids and high end have what I would call an open window to the music. Let me explain, there is a small jazz band playing in a building and you are standing outside the window listening, you can hear the music quite well, now you open the window now you can really hear it, there is nothing between you and the music. That is how the Cerafine’s sound in the upper midrange and out to the high end, I have not really heard better. They better the Silmics in 2 area’s and both have to do with detail, the high end of the Cerafine’s are just a tad more open and detailed giving you an even closer sound to the real thing. The other is in low bass detail and articulation, they are not as strong in the lowest octave as the Silmics but what is there is very detailed. The Cerafine’s do not have the lush smooth tube sound of the Silmics but sound like the best that solid state can offer.
> 
> Worth a read if anyone is interested: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-381961.html


 
  
 Uploaded a supplement guide to your tutorial:  http://s000.tinyupload.com/?file_id=82665433329654549106
  
 More pictures there, but not as detailed as the original tutorial though, that's why I like to think of it as a supplement only


----------



## mikoss

creatip said:


> ...
> 1 more question, as for the Panasonic caps, I couldn't find any FR caps, so I used M caps (the blue ones), quite a lot cheaper, but that's what I could find. Do they play an important part in shaping the sounds? In other words, is it imperative that I use FR caps instead of M caps?
> 
> Put simply, I'm aiming at the warmness sound of tubes. Frankly, I don't really like what I got from the Cerafine. Not that it sounds bad (it's far more detailed and wider than the original caps, actually), but like you posted, sounds too much of solid state for me.
> ...


 
  
 If you're looking to hear warmness, I would recommend the Silmic II's. For me, everything that I loved about the signature sound of rolling different tubes was fleshed out better after upgrading to them. I described it as liquid gold and I think it really accentuates what the T1 is capable of doing with different tubes. I have tried faster capacitors in the Woo Audio WA2 and I also felt they diminished everything that I loved about the amp... especially the smooth tube sound. I ended up paying for some expensive capacitors that gave the WA2 more speed, but took too much away. I think this is probably how you feel about the Cerafines, but I don't want to put words into your mouth... just some thoughts. I think the Silmic II's are worth trying.
  
 As for the Panasonic FR's... these were the power caps chosen by some headfi'ers posting here towards the beginning of the year, after trying a couple different ones. The FR's have great specs, better than the M series, but I'm not sure if/how the sound would change. I find that with the FR's, the bass is heavier and tighter than the stock T1. Paired with the right tube, the T1 has decent attack. (I find the Siemens E88CC and the Miniwatt E188CC to have considerably better bass/attack than other tubes I've heard). To give you an example, I now hear drums that are being slapped by hand and the natural reverb of the drum skins on some songs where I could never tell this was actually happening. I think it's great to hear the attack but also the decay afterwards, carrying the weight of everything through.
  
 Here are the links for the Panny datasheets: http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf/ABA0000/ABA0000CE12.pdf
 http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf/ABA0000/ABA0000CE132.pdf


----------



## teb1013

teb1013 said:


> After years of waiting I got HD600s just today. As with my HD558s I am using the Aune T1 with Amperex 7308 and will be primarily listening to classical, jazz and classic rock. I must turn the T1 up quite a bit to get similar volume with 0 gain. What gain do other 600 users use? Is it better to turn up vol or increase gain? I currently have these up to about 2/3 up to give similar vol to the 558s at over 1/3 vol.




To answer my own question, the 10DB setting seems perfect for driving the Sennheiser HD600 (at least for a couple of days listening). So far I'm loving the T1 (mk1) and HD600 combo. I will report further, but, at this point, I don't think that an upgrade of the DAC/Amp from the Aune will be necessary for quite a while.


----------



## Tamirci

Guys I have only dx90 dap and Mba to reach this device. Dx90 has 3.5mm hp out, line in and coax while mba mid 2013 ha both usb and 3.5mm hp socket.

Can I use a 3.5mm to RCA cable to prove music to Aune? Or the mighty demands usb audio only?


----------



## penmarker

teb1013 said:


> To answer my own question, the 10DB setting seems perfect for driving the Sennheiser HD600 (at least for a couple of days listening). So far I'm loving the T1 (mk1) and HD600 combo. I will report further, but, at this point, I don't think that an upgrade of the DAC/Amp from the Aune will be necessary for quite a while.


 
 I'm so glad. My Aune T1 is away for repairs and I've received my HD650 some time last week. Haven't tested it out with the Aune T1 yet, and frankly worried how they will sound.
 I've been eyeing myself some Lovely Cube Premium though, a clone of Lehmann Black Cube Linear.


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> If you're looking to hear warmness, I would recommend the Silmic II's. For me, everything that I loved about the signature sound of rolling different tubes was fleshed out better after upgrading to them. I described it as liquid gold and I think it really accentuates what the T1 is capable of doing with different tubes. I have tried faster capacitors in the Woo Audio WA2 and I also felt they diminished everything that I loved about the amp... especially the smooth tube sound. I ended up paying for some expensive capacitors that gave the WA2 more speed, but took too much away. I think this is probably how you feel about the Cerafines, but I don't want to put words into your mouth... just some thoughts. I think the Silmic II's are worth trying.
> 
> As for the Panasonic FR's... these were the power caps chosen by some headfi'ers posting here towards the beginning of the year, after trying a couple different ones. The FR's have great specs, better than the M series, but I'm not sure if/how the sound would change. I find that with the FR's, the bass is heavier and tighter than the stock T1. Paired with the right tube, the T1 has decent attack. (I find the Siemens E88CC and the Miniwatt E188CC to have considerably better bass/attack than other tubes I've heard). To give you an example, I now hear drums that are being slapped by hand and the natural reverb of the drum skins on some songs where I could never tell this was actually happening. I think it's great to hear the attack but also the decay afterwards, carrying the weight of everything through.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi, thanks again for your reply. Yesterday I played sounds (songs, games) for 10+ hours nonstop, and surprisingly the sounds seemed to have 'settled'. On fresh install, the sound was like what I described earlier, very wide, and even almost intrusive mid and highs. Also, almost sounded 'robotic' to me. I know by theory that caps need break-in time, but I don't know the difference would be that much though. 
  
 Now, I'd describe the sound as (compared to fresh install) less wide, warmer, the highs have settled (not intrusive anymore), nice mid. 
  
 Yeah, I think I'm gonna get the Silmic set, and see how they compare to the Cerafine set. I'll update when I get them.


----------



## creatip

tamirci said:


> Guys I have only dx90 dap and Mba to reach this device. Dx90 has 3.5mm hp out, line in and coax while mba mid 2013 ha both usb and 3.5mm hp socket.
> 
> Can I use a 3.5mm to RCA cable to prove music to Aune? Or the mighty demands usb audio only?


 
  
 I think you can use both (RCA and USB input), but the functions will be different.
  
 When using RCA IN jacks, the T1 is utilized for the solid state amp only, not using the tube part at all.
 When using USB input, the T1 is utilized for the tube DAC, which, after that, you got the choice of outputting to the stereo jack (tube DAC and SS amp in function), or outputting to RCA OUT (tube DAC in function, SS amp not used)
  
 IMO, this versatility is one of the strong point of the T1


----------



## Roelio

Went to Zoetermeer, 1 hour drive to visit a small shop called HifiStudio79. They had the Aune T1 for 119.- Euro and I'm happy that I could finally make my decision. 
  

  
 The SW switch is a on and off switch... Lol those Chinese really like to mess with us  电源拨档开关 mean's something like Power Dial-speed switch why the hell did they called it SW.... Make it ON/OFF
  
 Digital Manual - http://pic3.hifidiy.net/www/2014/aune/manual/T1_MK2_manual_20140512.pdf
  
 I'm very pleased with the device, could already hear so much more than with my normal Sound card. The Bass is a bit less then from the on board PC headphone out, but it's way more balanced and clear... This will make me listen en enjoy it even more !
  
Thanks to this forum and the posters !!!


----------



## creatip

roelio said:


> Went to Zoetermeer, 1 hour drive to visit a small shop called HifiStudio79. They had the Aune T1 for 119.- Euro and I'm happy that I could finally make my decision.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Heh, wait until you experiment with different tubes, or even caps upgrade. You'll be hooked even more


----------



## Roelio

@creatip
  
 Can you explain a bit more about your experience with it?
 I'm a modder from nature hehe  And will try reading everything in this post and hope I don't get to much stimulation to mod it or tube change it.
  
 Would be the first time if I just let it for what it is


----------



## creatip

roelio said:


> @creatip
> 
> Can you explain a bit more about your experience with it?
> I'm a modder from nature hehe  And will try reading everything in this post and hope I don't get to much stimulation to mod it or tube change it.
> ...


 
  
 Which experience? The modding or impression about the T1's basic unit?
  
 I have a review on T1 in another forum: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/206454-my-personal-review-of-aune-t1-mk2-headphone-amplifier-image-heavy/
  
 As for the capacitor mod, just get the guide written by mikoss, and you can supplement that with my guide, in a few post above this.


----------



## Roelio

Tube switching and the mod you have done.. How did it change your experience with music listening?
  
 Ps. I have already read your review, nice to meet you here haha !! It's a damn nice review !!!!! Awesome pictures my thanks !


----------



## creatip

roelio said:


> Tube switching and the mod you have done.. How did it change your experience with music listening?
> 
> Ps. I have already read your review, nice to meet you here haha !! It's a damn nice review !!!!! Awesome pictures my thanks !


 
  
 Well, the stock tube I got was the Electroharmonix 6922, which sounds decent. I bought the T1 from massdrop, which came bundled with the Genalex gold lion E88CC gold pin, which is definitely an upgrade to the stock tube. 
  
 Currently I'm using a vokshod (or voskhod, or whatever) rocket logo. This one suits me the best. It sounds more relaxed, with more accentuated, smooth lows and mid-lows than the E88CC. I got a little suspicion that this vokshod tube I'm using is not in its prime condition (in other words, degrading) though, and I've ordered another pair of vokshod tubes, but haven't arrived yet.
  
 As for the caps upgrade, I've written about it in the supplemental guide I posted a few post above.


----------



## Roelio

Thanks for sharing, mine has the 6922 EH from Russian too. 
  
 Think I'm willing to order a better tube so I have a spare one and to maybe hear some difference. 
  
 Hope your voskhod tubes will arrive soon


----------



## Roelio

Did any of you guy's notices that the tube socket top get's so hot it actually starts showing melting?


----------



## penmarker

roelio said:


> Did any of you guy's notices that the tube socket top get's so hot it actually starts showing melting?


wow. Yes it does get hot but it's never hot enough to melt. Show us some pics.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Well of course it gets hot, the entire unit gets hot and that is the contact point between the tube and the PCB.  Melting your socket though?  "Pics or it didn't happen."
  
 BTW, you can lower the heat output by turning down your gain settings.
  
  


creatip said:


> Hi, thanks again for your reply. Yesterday I played sounds (songs, games) for 10+ hours nonstop, and surprisingly the sounds seemed to have 'settled'. On fresh install, the sound was like what I described earlier, very wide, and even almost intrusive mid and highs. Also, almost sounded 'robotic' to me. I know by theory that caps need break-in time, but I don't know the difference would be that much though.
> 
> Now, I'd describe the sound as (compared to fresh install) less wide, warmer, the highs have settled (not intrusive anymore), nice mid.
> 
> Yeah, I think I'm gonna get the Silmic set, and see how they compare to the Cerafine set. I'll update when I get them.


 
  
 That isn't all caps though, your tube and headphones play a huge role in that.  How many hours do you have on your headphones and how many hours roughly on your tube/s?  I have vintage Cerafines and they are very sterile compared to the SILMICs.  Think about it, ceramic vs. silk fibers, which do you think will sound more warm/natural?
  
 SILMIC II:
  


> ELNA developed new raw material for the separate paper which use a silk fibers.  Therefore, this capacitor can give you high grade sound for your audio design.  Due to the silk fiber's pliability, the capacitor makes a dream of the high quality sound.


 
  
 Cerafine:


> As the charging and discharging speed between the oxidized film of anode and field surface of electrolyte and the variation of potential due to unevenness of fibers of separating paper sheets are improved by the electro-chemical action of super fine particle ceramic, this product realize high grade audio tone with excellent sound resolution power, good rise in the low-pitched sound region and no distortion in the medium and high-pitched sound region.


 
  
 Most people use the Cerafines in things like a guitar amp to speed power supply response, not for a headphone amp/dac.
  
 Some "audiophiles" will tell you 1000 hours before a cap is broken in, but I would say more like 50-100 hours for a large difference and miniscule from there up.  I can tell you the Mylars on my ZXR only continue to get better with time though, so I think it really depends on the application.  I would guess the ERSE PulseX Mylars I have probably have around 300 hours on them.


----------



## mikoss

Ahh yes, I do remember reading ELNAs informational pamphlet on these caps...
  
 Silmic II's:
 Elna raised a (top secret) silkworm farm, playing gentle passages from Bach, Beethoven, and various other highly regarded composers. The silkworms were fed a strict diet of harmonizing tones; a few simple chords for breakfast and always a sonata or two before bed. Their silk was extracted by hand by labourers with extremely delicate fingers and precision eyesight, to ensure each strand passed Elna's strict audiophile grade tolerances.
  
 Cerafines:
 Cerafines were basically a bunch of old ceramic figurines bought on the cheap from a recently deceased elderly couple. The estate featured a unique collection of various cartoon figurines from the early 1950's, mostly knock-off Disney characters (and the odd Ming Dynasty vase). All ceramic pieces were pummeled into tiny, microscopic shards by the most skilled of labourers, and reassembled in various (highly sterile) labs throughout Asia.


----------



## creatip

roelio said:


> Did any of you guy's notices that the tube socket top get's so hot it actually starts showing melting?


 
  
 The tube (and consequently the whole unit) is supposed to be hot, because vacuum tubes need to be hot for it to do its job. That's why it needs the 20-30 seconds heating time, to get the tube to operational temperature.
  
 But a melting socket? That's most definitely not normal. The socket sleeve (the white plate encasing the legs' connectors) is made of ceramic, which should withstand quite high temperatures. Temperature high enough to even slightly melt ceramic would be seen as smoke coming from it. 
  
 You can counter the unit's heat with a USB fan. I used to do it, but then I read somewhere that tubes do better jobs when hot, so I stopped using the fan. 
  


ncsuzoso said:


> That isn't all caps though, your tube and headphones play a huge role in that.  How many hours do you have on your headphones and how many hours roughly on your tube/s?  I have vintage Cerafines and they are very sterile compared to the SILMICs.  Think about it, ceramic vs. silk fibers, which do you think will sound more warm/natural?


 
  
 My headphone is a refurbished HE400. Long story short, I RMA-ed my HE400, and they gave me this refurbished one, because it's out of production. Being refurbished, I think it got some operational hours in it, before I even start using it.
  
 The tube I'm using now is a used voskhod I bought from ebay (although it's advertised as NOS, but it certainly got signs of regular uses)
  
 I'm getting ready to order a SILMIC II set to replace the Cerafine, if only for comparison's sake. It's Sunday here, so I'm placing the order tomorrow


----------



## Roelio

I know the tube need to get hot to release electrons and thought it suppose to be a ceramic socket..
  
 But I don't think mine is ceramic 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  

  
 I was running it with 10 dB Gain because I'd like to have a bit of overhead and don't want to dial it every time to the max... 
  
 Starting to feel weird 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
 ps. Doesn't the tube suppose to be pressed all in?? I can imagine that when the glass actually touch the socket it get even hotter....


----------



## creatip

roelio said:


> I know the tube need to get hot to release electrons and thought it suppose to be a ceramic socket..
> 
> But I don't think mine is ceramic
> 
> ...


 
  
 Yep, that's ceramic all right.
  
 Tubes don't have to be pressed all in, just have to make good contacts with the clamping connectors.


----------



## Roelio

Had to pull out my tools just to make sure. It's indeed ceramic but that would mean that it could withstand temperatures up to 1,000 °C......
  
For now I will just have to make sure that the tube won't touch the socket ^^


----------



## creatip

roelio said:


> Had to pull out my tools just to make sure. It's indeed ceramic but that would mean that it could withstand temperatures up to 1,000 °C......
> 
> For now I will just have to make sure that the tube won't touch the socket ^^


 
  
 You're actually worrying too much though. Tubes are originally designed to be operated with high temperatures, meaning every part of it (glass casing, legs, inner components, etc) are designed to withstand high temperatures. The glass won't crack because of high temperature that easily. 
  
 It's like you're worrying if your stove's casing will melt because of the fire it makes. It won't because it's designed not to....


----------



## Roelio

Maybe I was a bit worried, but I have warranty just found it strange that the top looked a bit melted. Overall I think is wise to don't let the glass touch the socket.
  
 Thanks for the help. Back to the reading and tubing again


----------



## penmarker

Press it all the way down, nothing will happen. Don't be so worried.


----------



## Roelio

Just took it all apart, wanted to see how this little peace looked like from the inside. 
 Made the Led Orange and it looks so damn warm now! Hated the White light......
  

  
 But I will try to enjoy it now and not to wonder so much xD
  
 update:
  
@penmarker
  
 I'm a bit stubborn I guess....When you leave some room between the socket and the tube it doesn't get insane hot anymore.....Better cooling I figure...
 Tested it with my finger, and yes listening to the same volume over the same period of time... I can now just let my finger rest on the lower part of the tube for ever...


----------



## xkonfuzed

How did you manage that? I put a thin, red piece of paper over the LED which makes it look a bit more appealing, but its nowhere near as bright as yours


----------



## Roelio

If I'll tell you people will laugh at me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
 you have a pm


----------



## truly194

What would be better amp and dac up to 600$ then aune t1? 
  
 I listening on beyerdynamics dt 880 250 ohm (premium).
  
 I need usb input, and if possible rca out from dac to my stereo setup.


----------



## xkonfuzed

roelio said:


> If I'll tell you people will laugh at me


 
 You didn't color it with a crayon did you?


----------



## Roelio

I tried that first on the tube itself but wouldn't stick 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 J/K


----------



## Charliemotta

A sharpie?


----------



## SirMarc

I cut the tip off one of the red RCA jack covers that came on the t1 and stuck it in the led hole. Looks good...


----------



## Roelio

That's maybe the cleverest solution with only the stock parts haha


----------



## SirMarc

Anyone using an Asgard 2 with the t1? Thinking of picking one up


----------



## Vanquished

sirmarc said:


> Anyone using an Asgard 2 with the t1? Thinking of picking one up


 
 Go on and pick it!


----------



## SirMarc

Lol, thanks


----------



## creatip

xkonfuzed said:


> How did you manage that? I put a thin, red piece of paper over the LED which makes it look a bit more appealing, but its nowhere near as bright as yours


 
  
 Don't do that. The tube connector always get very hot when operational. Color papers could burn, and could be a fire hazard. Unless you're using the heat resistant color film type usually used in stage lightings. Then again, with those kind of thick plastic, it will block the air circulation around there, making the connector hotter than what it's supposed to be.
  
 - The technically correct way would be to change the LED bulb altogether, but that would require de-soldering the stock one, and soldering a new one. 
 - Another way I could think of is to color the surface of the bulb with a thin layer of oil paints or acrylic paints.
 - The way that I went for is coloring the bottom part of the tube with acrylic paints (Tamiya modeling paints). This way is way easier, easily reversible, and I can change the color easily whenever I feel like it.


----------



## penmarker

I might just cover the LED light altogether. Lights like that look tacky.
  
 Quote:


truly194 said:


> What would be better amp and dac up to 600$ then aune t1?
> 
> I listening on beyerdynamics dt 880 250 ohm (premium).
> 
> I need usb input, and if possible rca out from dac to my stereo setup.


 
 Maybe try getting yourself an Matrix M-Stage? It's a clone of Lehmann Black Cube Linear and people go head over heels over it. The newest version comes with a USB DAC too, so you can probably check that out. Not that expensive really like USD$300.
  
 Or maybe you can go for Yulong or Audio-GD. Not really experienced with their stuff, but for $600 you can easily get a Yulong with DSD capability.


----------



## truly194

I heard that matrix isn't improve from aune. And it won't sound good with beyer's i think. 
  
 On other topic on headfi people said me that schiit combo would be good, or maybe Bootlehead Crack. But still dac is problem 
  
 And i can't try this Bootlehead before i buy it.
  
 Any other option? What yulong or audio-gd?


----------



## penmarker

truly194 said:


> I heard that matrix isn't improve from aune. And it won't sound good with beyer's i think.
> 
> On other topic on headfi people said me that schiit combo would be good, or maybe Bootlehead Crack. But still dac is problem
> 
> ...


 
 Ah okay, you meant for the DAC portion only? I guess the M-Stage only has a rudimentary DAC so it won't beat the Aune T1.
  
 Yulong and Audio-GD are two very good chinese brand amps and DACs.
 http://www.yulongaudio.com/en/
 http://www.audio-gd.com/En%20audio-gd.htm
  
 You can find a lot of threads for them in the Dedicated Source Components section http://www.head-fi.org/f/7/dedicated-source-components
 Find one within your budget limit, godspeed.


----------



## Roelio

Think I have listen to my stock tube (Electroharmonix 6922 Russian) for about 20 hours and it's so damn nice !!! 
 I don't think I need to change the stock tube anymore.. From all the reading in this awesome topic I see that for electronic music this is a great tube....
 Even all my PC games sound so much more dynamic, pure and spatial, don't know if that's the correct word... 
  
 Also if it's allowed here, don't know for sure take a listen at some of the electronic music on http://vk.com/majesticcasualofficial There is so much new music there and almost all is high quality and high rated.
  
 Well I'm done here for now I think, ill try to keep posted.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I've never understood the LED thing on these (probably the one thing I disliked before buying it, besides the stock tube), if I wasn't using a TubeMonger socket saver (mainly for the anti-vibration) to block the LED I would have taken it out.  However for those who don't want to remove it, you can short it and you don't even need a soldering iron.  You can get a conductive ink pen (also available in most Radio Shacks) and draw a line connecting the two leads from the LED and the electricity will follow the path of least resistance and turn off the LED.  However for the price of a conductive ink pen you can get a decent soldering iron, so I guess it is up to the user.
  
 The reason I don't like the LED is why have a glowing electron tube if you are just going to shine a LED in it?  Yes the 6922 doesn't glow like many tubes, say an EL84, but if it is dark the tube still has an obvious glow (some models more than others).


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> I've never understood the LED thing on these (probably the one thing I disliked before buying it, besides the stock tube), if I wasn't using a TubeMonger socket saver (mainly for the anti-vibration) to block the LED I would have taken it out.  However for those who don't want to remove it, you can short it and you don't even need a soldering iron.  You can get a conductive ink pen (also available in most Radio Shacks) and draw a line connecting the two leads from the LED and the electricity will follow the path of least resistance and turn off the LED.  However for the price of a conductive ink pen you can get a decent soldering iron, so I guess it is up to the user.
> 
> The reason I don't like the LED is why have a glowing electron tube if you are just going to shine a LED in it?  Yes the 6922 doesn't glow like many tubes, say an EL84, but if it is dark the tube still has an obvious glow (some models more than others).


 
  
 It's probably their take for the newer generation users. Older generation, or 'old-skool' might not like it, they might prefer the romantic and mesmerizing amber glows of the triodes. But the newer, younger generation are quite the opposite, I think. They like bling-bling and shiny bright stuffs. 
  
 I hang out in another forum, and found a few people asking questions about what headphone/set to buy. Their criteria: must have LED light of this and that color....
  
 Personally I don't mind the LED. It's a bit plus to see glowing tube in ambient lighting. But yeah, white color is kinda boring...


----------



## Vanquished

The LED is to show the tube is warmed up. But yes, the white strong ligth is boring.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

You don't need the light to know the tube is warmed up, there is a switch that is audible with no headphones on.


----------



## Chs177

Chinese socket  savers are block the light and haven't effect to sound quality.
 It's simple and easy solution for blocking light and easy tube rolling.
 Like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm//160622385954


----------



## NCSUZoSo

TubeMonger Socket Savers do the same thing which I said on the previous page.  Some of us would rather spend the extra cash for quality made non Chinese parts that are known to wobble in the socket.


----------



## creatip

vanquished said:


> The LED is to show the tube is warmed up. But yes, the white strong ligth is boring.


 
  
 I think the LED is actually time based. It will light after a certain amount of time (30 seconds, I think?), and I don't think it's triggered by temperature (which it should be, considering the function)
  
 I came into this conclusion by observing:
 - turning the unit off, then immediately on again. The tube, and even the unit is still hot, but the LED doesn't light up, and no sound comes out. I guess it's set as 'every time it's turned on, it must wait for certain time, before operational'
  
 - switching the input to 'line' (doesn't use the tube DAC part), take off the tube, the LED will still light up.
  
 It maybe their alternative way of implementing a LED that tells that the tube is ready. Maybe a time-based circuit is less expensive, or less complicated than a temperature-based circuit? I don't know.


----------



## penmarker

Seriously guys its in the manual. It says the light will turn on to signal that the tube buffer has started to work. It tells you when the tube buffer DAC starts to work, since the line in didn't go through the tube buffer it won't wait until light is on to work. That's why you hear no sound until the light is on.


----------



## Vanquished

creatip said:


> I think the LED is actually time based. It will light after a certain amount of time (30 seconds, I think?), and I don't think it's triggered by temperature (which it should be, considering the function)
> 
> I came into this conclusion by observing:
> - turning the unit off, then immediately on again. The tube, and even the unit is still hot, but the LED doesn't light up, and no sound comes out. I guess it's set as 'every time it's turned on, it must wait for certain time, before operational'
> ...


 
 Or it's just a fancy/crappy chinese eye-candy.


----------



## creatip

penmarker said:


> Seriously guys its in the manual. It says the light will turn on to signal that the tube buffer has started to work. It tells you when the tube buffer DAC starts to work, since the line in didn't go through the tube buffer it won't wait until light is on to work. That's why you hear no sound until the light is on.


 
  
 Yeah, that's the LED's original function, I think. Problem is, instead of being triggered by temperature of the tube (as should be), it's triggered by a time range. Not much different, I guess, still serve the same aim.
  
 When I say 'set to line, the LED still light up', I pointed that the LED's operational is not dependent on the tube (again, as it should be)


----------



## milan616

I have the black T1 and was sticking a cross of electrical tape over the socket and under the peg holes to block the light. Every time I tried a new tube the tape would pull up though and I'd have to do it again. Now I just stick the tape in a cross over the socket and holes. Hardly noticeable with the black on black unless you're shining a light on it. Faint glow of the tube, no white light.


----------



## Roelio

Well at first I loved the freshness of the white light when I bought it. It's indeed a indication when the internal relay is switched on and the DAC is working with the tube.. You even hear it switch the relay.
  
 After searching info about Tube amp technology I got seduced with the warm glow it give all trough with this kind of tube we only see the top filament glowing to produce heat.
  
 When I saw the post from Salvatore on page 135 about "Led color mod by *ElBartoMe*"  I went crazy haha.
  
 You know sometimes it's damn handy to have a woman in your life. They love Nail Polish and have almost every color 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Hint: One drop of Orange nail polish did the job for me xD


----------



## creatip

roelio said:


> Well at first I loved the freshness of the white light when I bought it. It's indeed a indication when the internal relay is switched on and the DAC is working with the tube.. You even hear it switch the relay.
> 
> After searching info about Tube amp technology I got seduced with the warm glow it give all trough with this kind of tube we only see the top filament glowing to produce heat.
> 
> ...


 
  
 The downside of that mod is it's not easily reversible, or if you wanna change the colors. You could drop some acetone to dissolve the nail polish, but then you're introducing more substance to the electronic circuit board. My solution is to color the tube instead.


----------



## Roelio

When I first used red nail polish it was looking pink
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  But I just used a cotton bud with a bit of acetone to clean the topper led. And then it was white again xD
  
 Just make sure you don't overdo it with acetone... You definitely don't want the polish or the acetone touch the circuit board, like you said.


----------



## mikoss

The tube may be at operating temperature after 30 seconds, but I give mine at least 10 minutes warm up time, and find most amps that use tubes sound as good as they can after at least 20 mins. I've been in audio shops where people are auditioning systems and find the change in sound quality quite dramatic. I find the LED distracting, for the T1 and also the Woo WA7.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Maybe with a tube amp, but this isn't a tube amp, it's a DAC with a tube buffer combined with a SS amp.


----------



## mikoss

There's a noticeable difference between the T1 after 30 seconds and after 20 mins.


----------



## penmarker

ncsuzoso said:


> Maybe with a tube amp, but this isn't a tube amp, it's a DAC with a tube buffer combined with a SS amp.


 
 Tubes work best when they're hot.


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> There's a noticeable difference between the T1 after 30 seconds and after 20 mins.


 
  
 This may be OOT from what's being discussed, but I've been wondering, how does a tube DAC work exactly? I'm guessing the tube is positioned at the pre-amp section. So, DAC chip => tube pre-amp => either headphone amp or RCA line out. This is just a baseless guess though. 
  
 Oh, and on another note, my Silmic II caps set arrived, and it's much larger than the Cerafines (explains how I managed to squeeze all the Cerafine caps inside the casing). I don't think Silmic II got any possible way to be squeezed into the original case. So I'm thinking about mixing them, a few Silmic + a few Cerafine. If I have to mix them, which position of the caps pair you'd say give the most distinct sound difference? I'm thinking of using Silmics for the most distinct position, and the smaller Cerafines for the less distinct position.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

penmarker said:


> Tubes work best when they're hot.


 
  
 Well of course, but this Aune T1 has no huge difference from 2 minutes on to 20 minutes on.  It's not like you are sitting there listening and you are like "WOW, the tube is really warmed up now".  The tube is essentially the EQ in this, it's not the same as when power tubes heat up, it is not even remotely the same.


----------



## Roelio

creatip is right this is how I got it explained. 
  
 USB -> DAC -> Tube -> AMP -> Headphone
  
 Also I think it's right to say that when the temperature is reached that bring's the max electrons in move it will sound the best,


----------



## creatip

roelio said:


> creatip is right this is how I got it explained.
> 
> USB -> DAC -> Tube -> AMP -> Headphone
> 
> Also I think it's right to say that when the temperature is reached that bring's the max electrons in move it will sound the best,


 
  
 Thank you, I've been wondering about it for some times now. My logic is, tubes are analog devices, so it can't be used to handle digital signal. Meaning it can't be used as the DAC itself, and it can't be positioned before the DAC (because the signal would've been still digital), so it gotta be positioned after the DAC chip, but before the main amp.
  
 Well, that's my logic, but like I said, I don't have anything to back it up....


----------



## penmarker

ncsuzoso said:


> Well of course, but this Aune T1 has no huge difference from 2 minutes on to 20 minutes on.  It's not like you are sitting there listening and you are like "WOW, the tube is really warmed up now".  The tube is essentially the EQ in this, it's not the same as when power tubes heat up, it is not even remotely the same.


 
 It's a tube, tubes just work better when they're hot. It's just how tubes work. I don't know what else I can say, they're tubes.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I'm not sure why you keep repeating something nobody is arguing with...   All I have said is you get no large change after the tube is on for 15-20 minutes *with the Aune T1* because the tube is a buffer....  It's like me sitting here repeatedly saying, the tube is a buffer, don't know what else to say in response to you, over and over.


----------



## mikoss

I think most people buy the T1 for the audible difference the tube makes. I personally hear a wide range of presentation depending on which tube is being used. Arguing that it's merely a buffer really doesn't mean anything to me personally. For example, I find the tube affects the sound just the same as the 6dj8 tubes driving the Wa2 I have. The sonic characteristics carry through both in that the tubes could be identified in either amp regardless of where they are being implemented in the circuits.

Don't want to offend in saying the sound changes... I just personally do hear a difference between warm up times.


----------



## Vanquished

Someone to have experience with T1 + Schiit Asgard 2/ Valhalla 2/ Lyr 2? I'm itchy to try, may be Lyr 2... I not found my ex Matrix M-Stage to be big upgrade from the T1 internal amp.


----------



## penmarker

vanquished said:


> Someone to have experience with T1 + Schiit Asgard 2/ Valhalla 2/ Lyr 2? I'm itchy to try, may be Lyr 2... I not found my ex Matrix M-Stage to be big upgrade from the T1 internal amp.


what headphones do you pair it with?


----------



## SirMarc

I'm considering picking up an asguard 2, just nervous it won't be better than the vintage receiver I'm using as an amp now...


----------



## SirMarc

I'm using hd580's I recently sent in to sennheiser for a tune up. I found the t1 amp to be a bit thin sounding which is why I use the vintage receiver. Sounds great but takes up a ton of real estate


----------



## Vanquished

penmarker said:


> what headphones do you pair it with?


 
 DT880 600 ohms and PSB M4U 2. May be some Grados in the future - SR325i/e , RS1i/e or PS500/e, also looking the new Ultrasones - 880, but for now primarily the DT880s and PSBs. 


sirmarc said:


> I'm using hd580's I recently sent in to sennheiser for a tune up. I found the t1 amp to be a bit thin sounding which is why I use the vintage receiver. Sounds great but takes up a ton of real estate


 
 Compared to M-Stage it's thinner but in the same time airier and with better top end.


----------



## SirMarc

More interested in the Asgard 2


----------



## SirMarc

Felt like the aune amp was lacking body in the midrange, even with an amperex 7308, so I just use it as a dac. Anyone on here with senn hd580-650's using an Asgard 2 with the t1?


----------



## Vortaku

Just got my T1 mk2 in, and the socket is angled, it is diagonal. prolly a 70 degree angle. is this normal? I may be sending it back


----------



## rwpritchett

No... it should be straight up-and-down.


----------



## Vortaku

rwpritchett said:


> No... it should be straight up-and-down.


 

 That is what I thought, time to contact customer service


----------



## mikoss

vortaku said:


> That is what I thought, time to contact customer service


 
 Yipes, talk about quality control issues. Hard to believe they'd ship it out with a bent tube socket like that. D'oh


----------



## mikoss

creatip said:


> This may be OOT from what's being discussed, but I've been wondering, how does a tube DAC work exactly? I'm guessing the tube is positioned at the pre-amp section. So, DAC chip => tube pre-amp => either headphone amp or RCA line out. This is just a baseless guess though.
> 
> Oh, and on another note, my Silmic II caps set arrived, and it's much larger than the Cerafines (explains how I managed to squeeze all the Cerafine caps inside the casing). I don't think Silmic II got any possible way to be squeezed into the original case. So I'm thinking about mixing them, a few Silmic + a few Cerafine. If I have to mix them, which position of the caps pair you'd say give the most distinct sound difference? I'm thinking of using Silmics for the most distinct position, and the smaller Cerafines for the less distinct position.


 
 Any update on what you tried?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Was taking some pics of my total setup and got some cool Aune T1 / SoundMAGIC HP100 pictures:
  

  
  

  
  
 BTW, here is my total setup (minus the rear speakers and the 2 subwoofers)
  

  
 (see sig for specs on home theater)


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> Any update on what you tried?


 
  
 Well, actually, I kinda F-ed up when de-soldering the Cerafines and installing the Silmic II. Now, the headphone amp circuit board is FUBAR. Luckily the main board is intact and operational, so I'm using it as the DAC only, passing the line output to an external amp. 
  
 I ordered a replacement headphone amp board from Aune though, they just sent it today, so I'm waiting for it to arrive.
  
 Meanwhile, what do you think of my question? Let's say I like the sound signature of Silmic the most, but I can't squeeze all the 470uF caps in. In other words, I'd have to compromise with 1 pair of Silmic 470uF, and the other pair with Cerafine 470uF. Which position should I install the Silmic to get a better distinguished Silmic signature sound, the C55-C56 position, or the C51-C59 position?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Did you look at any pictures of other people's cap mods installed?  Everyone else is getting them to fit, all you have to is leave lead length to bend them over slightly to get them all to fit.  I don't see why you would want Cerafines in any position unless your headphones need added brightness.


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> Did you look at any pictures of other people's cap mods installed?  Everyone else is getting them to fit, all you have to is leave lead length to bend them over slightly to get them all to fit.  I don't see why you would want Cerafines in any position unless your headphones need added brightness.


 
  
 Because the 470uF Silmic II caps are very big. The Cerafines are already bigger than the stock caps, and the Silmics are bigger than the Cerafines. It's not just because they're tall, but big in diameter, also. The Cerafines are tall, but small diameter, so they can be installed by bending them sideways easily. I can't find a way to squeeze all 4 of Silmics inside, while it still got the 2 main panasonic caps. I've tried bending, I've even considered using small gauge wires to leave them hanging inside. Simply won't do, no place to put it.
  
 I'll post a picture of the size comparison, when I got the time.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I don't need a size comparison, I have both capacitors and I have the exact same capacitors inside the Aune T1 pictured above.


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> I don't need a size comparison, I have both capacitors and I have the exact same capacitors inside the Aune T1 pictured above.


 
  
 Well, good for you then. I haven't been able to find a picture that would fit all the Silmics inside the original casing. All the pictures I found showed the caps protruding out of the bottom of the casing.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

It is not some secret, I have posted pictures of the inside of mine.  You just need to go back more than a dozen pages, this is a long thread.  Plenty of people have done the same thing.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Here is my cap layout before I pulled my vintage Cerafines (red), I also had not mounted the amp PCB back down yet, but this arrangement works and I believe you are using the same size SILMIC II caps I am.  Those are supposedly "vintage" Cerafines (cost about $7 more than two of the standard ones on Mouser), but I'm using all SILMIC II now and Panasonic primary instead of Nichicon Fine Gold.  On my amp board I have the slightly expensive mini SILMIC II that fit fine if you give them a slight bend to clear the components directly under the board.
  

  
  
  
 Here is ElBartoMe's layout using lead wires like you mentioned:
  

  
  
  
  
 There are multiple ways depending on the size you went with and if you read more you would know the height limit and you could do like user Coil did:
  

  
  
 Edit: I snapped a quick picture of my current setup which is all full size SILMIC II caps besides the minis on the amp board.  You will probably notice I have removed the RCA section temporarily as I do not need it and it was getting in the way with what I was doing.  Sorry for the quality of the picture, but I just grabbed a quick shot showing full size SILMIC II caps fitting inside with no issues.  You may notice one of the SILMIC caps coming off the back of the amp board has been rubbed some, that is because it is indeed slightly touching the bottom when it is put on and removed (been done a lot). 
  

  
 I hope these help you, if you have any questions feel free to ask.
  
 BTW, I am using these caps under the amp board (which I do happen to have 2 more of, they came in a pack of 4):


----------



## PETEREK




----------



## Darkblade48

I have been looking into this Tube DAC/amp and had a question with regards to the supplied power adapter.
  
 For the Mk1, it seems that the power adapter is either a 110V or a 220V version (not sure of the frequency).
 For the Mk2, it seems that the power adapter is a 100-240V, 50/60 Hz frequency adapter.
  
 I live in (eastern) Japan, where the nominal voltage is nominally 100V and frequency is 50 Hz.
  
 I believe the Mk2 power supply would work, but I am currently looking at the Mk1 as it is about 80 USD cheaper. Will the included US adapter work (I believe the frequency is 50/60Hz, but I'm not too sure about the voltage). If someone could provide a photo of their Mk1 power adapter too, it would be really helpful.


----------



## mikoss

Yes I think this one will work... 100v is lower than North America, so it will probably put out 13.6v or so instead of 15v, which should be ok.

The cord-end should also work in Japan, as it is a straight blade non-polarized plug in... see the pic.


----------



## penmarker

Hey, I'm from Malaysia and using the Mk1, we run on 220-240V 50Hz power here so I think the Mk1 would be working fine for Japan. No pics though since I'm not home now. Cheers!


----------



## Darkblade48

mikoss said:


> Yes I think this one will work... 100v is lower than North America, so it will probably put out 13.6v or so instead of 15v, which should be ok.
> 
> The cord-end should also work in Japan, as it is a straight blade non-polarized plug in... see the pic.


 
  
 Thanks for the image. Yes, the plug shape will be fine for use in Japan, I was really more concerned about the voltage and frequency (the latter does not seem to be a problem).
  


penmarker said:


> Hey, I'm from Malaysia and using the Mk1, we run on 220-240V 50Hz power here so I think the Mk1 would be working fine for Japan. No pics though since I'm not home now. Cheers!


 
  
 Thanks for the information.
  
  
 On another note, I may be moving to a country (Singapore) that uses 230V 50 Hz in the future; is it possible to even get the power adapter by itself? I don't normally see many 15V AC output adapters around, most of the ones I see are DC.
  
 Maybe it would be better to just buy the Mk2 which comes with a universal adapter (though it is 80 USD more....)


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I finally got my headphone extension and I was afraid of this, but it's not a big deal, 10 feet is a little longer than I needed, especially while sitting at the desk. However I am able to sit all the way in my recliner now hooked up to the Aune T1 and my SoundMAGIC HP100 cable never even starts to use the coiled part of the cable which is AWESOME!!!  That alone made the purchase worthwhile, I'm just sad HP100 owners have to resort to this in order to change their cable length/quality.  However I knew this when I purchased and honestly it has been the only negative I have found on my HP100's.
  
 Here is the cable:
  

  
  
 It is a custom made cable using Mogami Quad 2534 -- 24 AWG with Neutrik NP3C-B male plug and a Neutrik NJ3FC6 Locking 1/4" female plug.
  
 This is the seller I used and I've checked the soldering, they definitely did a great job all around on this cable:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOGAMI-QUAD-2534-HEADPHONE-EXTENSION-W-NEUTRIK-10FT-/120675145777?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item1c18cc9831


----------



## Dyin

Has anyone had problems with the Aune T1 not being recognized by the computer. I have a desktop running Windows 7 Ultimate and for the 4 months that I had the device after I bought it there were no issues. I bought some Amperex Bugle Boys and really enjoyed the sound. However, now my Aune T1 seems to be malfunctioning. 
  
 Sometimes when I turn on the device, I get the popup that one of the usb devices was not recognized. Sometimes I only get a popup saying device driver is being installed. If I get the device driver is being installed popup, it always says it has been successfully installed and I can find it in the device manager as unknown device. The one consistent thing is that I cannot find the Aune T1 device in the sound menu meaning that I cannot play music through it. 
  
 I have tried several troubleshooting methods including deleting the driver and letting it re-install, testing on another computer, using another usb cable, deleting the driver and then restarting the computer. None of them have changed the end result. 
  
 I really enjoyed the device while it was working and I hope that I don't have to go through the annoying process of getting a new device or dealing with the Aune company. 
  
 Any help or advice is appreciated.


----------



## Chs177

Could you try different usb port after removing unknown device from device manager?


----------



## Roelio

@Dyin
  
 Sounds like bad connection at the USB mount. Maybe you could open it an look for any bad connection's or something like that.
 If it's all looking and feeling fine, check soldering etz. Then I guess it's broken...
  
 You tried everything to localize the problem. And it's definitely the Aune hardware or contact's.


----------



## Output

that feel when wrong thread. oops


----------



## NCSUZoSo

The USB is definitely the weakest point on the device in terms of structure stability, you can check it with a voltmeter if you have one.  Just plug the Aune T1 and get out your voltmeter and look inside the USB socket.  You will see 2 pieces of metal on the top and on the bottom of the plastic piece.  All you need to do is touch the probe to both of them and it doesn't even matter if you get it backwards, it will just show a negative voltage.  USB should show 5V solid, with a little leeway up or down, but roughly 5V.  If you need more instruction on where to place the probes I can show you.  The only way you can damage anything is if you bridge the positive and negative with either a single probe or you touch both of your probes together. 
  
 I had to replace the USB "dog house" on my Aune T1 because for some reason one day it stopped being recognized and when I checked it I was getting less than 1V.
  
 If you have any questions on checking the voltage please ask, as I don't want to be responsible for you shorting the USB and possibly damaging the DAC board.  The main thing is you don't touch two contact (metal) points inside the USB with one probe and don't touch the two probes together, that is really all you have to do to prevent damage.  Hell, you can probably even just ground the negative probe on something metal (PC case?) and only use one probe, that would make it very hard for you to short it.
  
 Yea I would ground one probe on something else and only use a single probe going in there.  Remember you need the Aune T1 powered on to check this.


----------



## CriticalTodd

Sorry in advance for the newbie question. I'm interested in picking this up but, before I do, I'd like to know how easy it is to replace the tube and if any soldering is involved or do they just plug in and out?


----------



## chowmein83

criticaltodd said:


> Sorry in advance for the newbie question. I'm interested in picking this up but, before I do, I'd like to know how easy it is to replace the tube and if any soldering is involved or do they just plug in and out?


 
  
 It's pretty easy to replace the tube once you get the hang of it - you really just wiggle the tube horizontally (but carefully) while pulling on it until it comes out. It only takes a minute, at most. No soldering is involved.


----------



## CriticalTodd

chowmein83 said:


> It's pretty easy to replace the tube once you get the hang of it - you really just wiggle the tube horizontally (but carefully) while pulling on it until it comes out. It only takes a minute, at most. No soldering is involved.


 
  
 Great. Thanks.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

If you can change a light bulb you can change tubes, although the socket is a little tight on the Aune T1.  Basically you lift up while wiggling it slightly and it will come right out and then to put a tube in you just press straight down after you line up the pins.


----------



## CriticalTodd

ncsuzoso said:


> If you can change a light bulb you can change tubes, although the socket is a little tight on the Aune T1.  Basically you lift up while wiggling it slightly and it will come right out and then to put a tube in you just press straight down after you line up the pins.


 
 I think I can manage that.


----------



## meowmix4jo

If anyone wants a T1 I'm selling mine with upgraded caps. Got a Music Hall 25.3 which is pretty much a T1 on steroids, so I haven't even turned my T1 on in weeks.


----------



## newton2105

ncsuzoso said:


> If you can change a light bulb you can change tubes, although the socket is a little tight on the Aune T1.  Basically you lift up while wiggling it slightly and it will come right out and then to put a tube in you just press straight down after you line up the pins.


 
  
 Yeah, that made me a bit nervous with mine at first.  It's definitely a tight fit.
  
 Enjoying the hell out mine, though.  I swap between the stock Electro Harmonix tube, an Amperex orange globe, a Bugle Boy, and a really nice Ei tube from Yugoslavia.  Wonderful little desktop set-up.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Yea I roll between my 6922 Siemens and my 6922 RCA Western Germany Amperex.  I use the Siemens for critical listening like music or movies and the Amperex on things like gaming and browsing the internet.  These tubes should last a very long time based on their test results I was given, but I think it is stupid to be playing ESO with a Siemens 6922 (possible CCa) and burn hours of the tube to hear team speak and game sounds.
  
 BTW, does anyone know of a software that is like many software such as MSI Afterburner that shows GPU and DX info in the corner, but instead will show us audio information?  I mainly want to use it for games and streaming online videos like Netflix; I have heard the computer web browser Netflix movies have a terrible audio quality.  I bet it depends on the movies though, however that is exactly why I want to find something like this if it exist.
  
  
 To any long time owners of the Aune T1 who use is a lot, have you ever managed to use up a tube to the point you had to change it out?  If so are you positive it was never damaged and that caused it to go early?


----------



## robosquirrel

Today I upgraded the caps in my T1.  In my searches through this thread I've seen some questions about what the stock caps actually are.
  
 Here's what my stock caps were: (US/Canada 120v version from Massdrop in Feb 2014)
 Main primary power supply caps (C35, C36): Lelon RXW-series 3300uF 25V (datasheet PDF) - decent specs, but too high capacitance to measure with my LCR to confirm
 Secondary caps (C55, C56): Panasonic FC-series 330uF 35V (datasheet PDF) - good caps, measure low-ESR in my LCR
 Amp board rail voltage caps (C51, C59): Nichicon VR-series 470uF 25V (datasheet PDF) - good caps, measure low-ESR in my LCR
 Amp board coupling caps (C32, C52): Elna RJ3-series 100uF 25V (datasheet PDF) - good caps for GP usage
  
 As for the red film caps, things got a bit interesting.
  
*Caps marked u1J63*: (C33/34/53/54, amp C50/58) 0.1uF 63V 5%, appear to be Wima MKS-2 series, but terrible ESR measurements! (all 6 tested the same)
 100Hz: 27.3 ohms

  
 1KHz: 6.8 ohms

  
 10KHz: 1.59 ohms

  
 100KHZ: 0.36 ohm

  
  
*Caps marked 1uK63*: (C16/46/47) 1uF 63V 10%, likely Wima MKS-2 series, ESR tests fine
 100Hz: 1.7 ohms

  
 1KHz: 0.58 ohms

  
 10KHz: 0.15 ohms

  
 100KHz: 0.04 ohms

  
 The caps marked as Wima 0.47uF 100V seem to be proper 5% MKS-2 series and ESR tests are in line with the smaller MKS-2 0.47uF 63V 5% caps I got, so I left them in.
  
 I followed the PDF guide from Mikoss for replacements (much thanks!) of the electrolytics.  For the Wimas I used MKP-2 for the 0.1uF and MKS-2 for the 1uF (no 1uF MKP-2's).  All caps received extra insulation with Kapton tape where they contact any other components (C56 got more as it almost touches the tube socket leads).
  
*Wima MKP-2 0.1uF 100V 5%*: Huge improvement!
 100Hz: 0.4 ohms

  
 1KHz: 0.19 ohms

  
 10KHz: 0.02 ohms

  
 100KHz: 0.02 ohms

  
  
*Wima MKS-2 1uF 63V 5%*: - similar measurements as the smaller original caps, but benefit from 5% tolerance
 100Hz: 2.1 ohms

  
 1KHz: 0.61 ohms

  
 10KHz: 0.15 ohms

  
 100KHz: 0.04 ohms

  
  
 A familiar sight to you guys: Stock pcbs and new caps

  
 Primary caps: nice fit

  
 Hey, where's the Wimas!: so much more room for the Silmics though

  
 Wimas moved to other side of pcb: plenty of room for all

  
 Main pcb done: not bad!

  
 Amp pcb done:
    
  
 Assembled component side: had to trim the RCA board's jumper wire connectors to clear the caps

  
 Assembled socket side: looks like it was meant to be!

  
  
 I had to further attach the RCA wiring with Kapton tape so the bottom lid would close properly.
  
 I still need to run this thing to allow the caps to settle, but so far it's quite nice.  I dropped my gain from 6dB to 0dB, as it was a bit harsh.  Stock 6922EH works well, but I want better!
  
 edit: Replaced pic links with embedded pics.


----------



## creatip

robosquirrel said:


> Today I upgraded the caps in my T1.  I can't post pics yet, so I've linked them.  In my searches through this thread I've seen some questions about what the stock caps actually are.
> 
> Here's what my stock caps were:
> Main primary power supply caps (C35, C36): Lelon RXW-series 3300uF 25V (datasheet PDF) - decent specs, but too high capacitance to measure with my LCR to confirm
> ...


 
  
 Those are different from my stock caps. Mine was Nichicon and Elna, no Panasonic or Lelon. They must have improved their line of production...


----------



## SirMarc

This t1 really has a nice dac. I use a vintage receiver as an amp and the t1 as my dac with an amperex 7308. I have my Android loaded up with flacs and 24/96 files and use an app called USB audio pro for bit perfect streaming. Anyway, my otg cable went bad the other night, so while i was waiting to get my new one in the mail I pulled my oppo out of the rack and hooked it up to the vintage receiver so I could at least listen to some music with my headphones. Long story short, even with sacds and DVD audios, it didn't sound nearly as good as the t1 and my android. The soundstage shrunk and it sounded much less airy and kind of compressed. Just got the otg cable and hooked it up and it sounds awesome again. To be safe, I ordered 3 otg cables lol. Very impressed with this thing...


----------



## robosquirrel

creatip said:


> Those are different from my stock caps. Mine was Nichicon and Elna, no Panasonic or Lelon. They must have improved their line of production...


 
  
 I got mine from Massdrop in early February this year (US/Canada version), when did you get yours and what region?  The caps in mine were the same/similar as in a lot of pics here, depending on production and designated market.
  
 Lelon RXW: (remembered how to measure large cap ESR: 0.03 ohm @ 100Hz, 0.025 ohm @ 1KHz, 0.022 ohm @ 10KHz, 0.019 ohm @ 100KHz, which is in line with the datasheet spec of 0.018 ohm @ 100KHz, but still questionable reliability)

  
 Panasonic FC: (mine are a dark blue, some others are purple, but still has the trademark T-shaped vent and logo; stylized M in the square is mark of Matsu****a, parent of Panasonic)

  
 Nichicon VR:

  
 Elna RJ3:


----------



## creatip

robosquirrel said:


> I got mine from Massdrop in early February this year (US/Canada version), when did you get yours and what region?  The caps in mine were the same/similar as in a lot of pics here, depending on production and designated market.
> 
> Lelon RXW: (remembered how to measure large cap ESR: 0.03 ohm @ 100Hz, 0.025 ohm @ 1KHz, 0.022 ohm @ 10KHz, 0.019 ohm @ 100KHz, which is in line with the datasheet spec of 0.018 ohm @ 100KHz, but still questionable reliability)
> 
> ...


 
  
 Got mine from Massdrop in July (purchase date), dunno what region it is.
  
 These are the stock caps that I salvaged:


----------



## robosquirrel

I can see from the pics that the black/white are Nichicon VR-series, the small Elnas are RJ3, and the 3300uF probably say Lelon on the other side (colour and text identical to mine).  By region I mean what voltage the power supply runs on, 120v or 220v.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

The UK and US have one cap that is different (secondary supply caps on the DAC), but it makes no difference which one you use.
  
 BTW here is a pic of extra caps I ended up with (would sell if interested) and you can see some of those are the stock caps.
  

  
 In terms of upgraded caps you have the SILMIC II caps for the secondary supply caps on DAC board,  Note one of these caps has both leads patched back on with solder but works perfectly (I ran it like this for months before replacing); this happened because I thought the height was within the specifications of the case dimensions and I was wrong.. Nichicon Fine Golds for the primaries (I replaced these because they removed too much bass for my setup, they would be perfect with a headphone with too much bass or someone who loves classic/jazz/bluegrass, I just needed a little more bass).  Then you have the red "vintage' ELNA Cerafines for the coupling caps ($15 for pair is what I paid + SH) and the mini SILMIC II "fine golds" for the rail voltage caps on the amp board.  One or two people claimed the mini SILMIC II caps I have posted there in the plastic bag were not "real" SILMIC II caps are incorrect, I located them in the ELNA datasheet based on the labeling.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Guys look at what I found, a pair of CCa Ultrons:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CCa-Gold-Pin-1-Paar-Ultron-NOS-Rohren-E88CC-6922-6N11-6N23P-CV2492-/151442095916?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&hash=item2342a6ff2c
  
 I bet he would take $180-$200 instead of $220 since he has make an offer as an option.  Anyone want to go in half with me?


----------



## Levaix

ncsuzoso said:


> Guys look at what I found, a pair of CCa Ultrons:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CCa-Gold-Pin-1-Paar-Ultron-NOS-Rohren-E88CC-6922-6N11-6N23P-CV2492-/151442095916?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&hash=item2342a6ff2c
> 
> I bet he would take $180-$200 instead of $220 since he has make an offer as an option.  Anyone want to go in half with me?


 
 Ooooo... VERY tempting. If I weren't planning to upgrade to a new DAC very soon I'd have to do this.


----------



## penmarker

Ultron?
  


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## truly194

Ok, i want to upgrade aune t1 to something better. Has anyone compare Aune t1 amp section to one of this 
  
  Schiit lyr/Valhalla 1/2 or Bottlehead Crack or Little Dot MK IV/Vi or Woo Audio 6? 
  
 I would upgrade dac too, but later. Anyone can tell something it will be upgrade?


----------



## SirMarc

I talked my wife into getting me an Asgard 2 for Christmas, if you can wait that long I'll tell you how it is...


----------



## meowmix4jo

truly194 said:


> Ok, i want to upgrade aune t1 to something better. Has anyone compare Aune t1 amp section to one of this
> 
> Schiit lyr/Valhalla 1/2 or Bottlehead Crack or Little Dot MK IV/Vi or Woo Audio 6?
> 
> I would upgrade dac too, but later. Anyone can tell something it will be upgrade?


 
  
 Pretty much anything is an upgrade to the amp section, it's just a fairly simple opamp circuit. Which reminds me, one of the opamps on the T1 isn't SMD, if I don't sell mine soon I might put a socket in there and see if changing them out makes any difference.
  
 As for the DAC, I ended up upgrading to a music hall 25.3 which I liked since it uses the same tubes as the T1. I've only used the Modi, but if you're going Schiit I'm guessing any of their DACs will be good.


----------



## MrEleventy

meowmix4jo said:


> Pretty much anything is an upgrade to the amp section, it's just a fairly simple opamp circuit. Which reminds me, one of the opamps on the T1 isn't SMD, if I don't sell mine soon I might put a socket in there and see if changing them out makes any difference.
> 
> As for the DAC, I ended up upgrading to a music hall 25.3 which I liked since it uses the same tubes as the T1. I've only used the Modi, but if you're going Schiit I'm guessing any of their DACs will be good.


I had the Aune T1, Modi, and now the Bifrost. I didn't find the Modi to be an upgrade to the T1, I thought the T1 was better actually; or perhaps more my preference. I do find the Bifrost(Stock) an upgrade. Not a major night and day difference kind of upgrade but one that I've come to appreciate over time.


----------



## truly194

So maybe better option is better amp and other headphones to try


----------



## Charliemotta

You would take that over the Aune T1??


----------



## truly194

Yep, i want take one of this amps over aune t1, then i will buy dac to new amp


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> Guys look at what I found, a pair of CCa Ultrons:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CCa-Gold-Pin-1-Paar-Ultron-NOS-Rohren-E88CC-6922-6N11-6N23P-CV2492-/151442095916?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&hash=item2342a6ff2c
> 
> I bet he would take $180-$200 instead of $220 since he has make an offer as an option.  Anyone want to go in half with me?


 
  
 I'd go in, but I can't seem to find much info on Ultron tubes... Did you have some high res shots of the Siemens tube you enjoy? Anything etched into the bottom or sides? The E88CC's that I have bring a lot more punch/realistic sound to the bass compared to the Amperex 7308s. I also found the highs were very extended and airy on the Siemens E88CCs... The only thing I really disliked about those tubes was the lack of midrange, especially compared to the very clear, almost forward sounding midrange I enjoy on the Amperex 7308. 
  
 The Phillips Miniwatt E188CC's have the exact same realistic, full bass of the Siemens, the beautiful clear midrange of the Amperex 7308, and the extended, nuanced highs of the Siemens... I suspect that if you're also impressed with the midrange and not finding it lacking from your Siemens tube, it's probably an E188CC, or possibly a CCa like you mentioned before. 
  
 The E188CC stretches the soundstage noticeably wider than the Amperex 7308s I heard, so individual instruments/vocals/percussion can be heard with noticeably more detail as well. It also brings a smoothness to the music I had never heard before, and brings out serious details. Even at 4 dots up from minimum on the T1, I can sometimes hear (very, very faintly) the sound of my hard drive clicking and/or other USB noise that I'd never heard from any tube. This is with my HD-650s which are laid-back... I would probably find the USB noise intolerable if I had AKG's hooked up...
  
 If the Siemens tube you have has the same sort of qualities, I imagine it's either a E188CC or CCa. I can't imagine how the CCa could improve from this, but if I do buy a CCa, I think I'll go with a Siemens Halske version. The Miniwatt sounds a lot more like the Siemens tubes than the Amperex 7308s which were also made in Heerlen...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

All the info I could find on the Siemens is in my sig and a lot of people I have talked to said I most likely have an unmarked CCa based on the plate codes, but it can't be verified.  The mid-range of my Siemens is definitely not lacking at all.  I listen to a lot of guitar heavy classic rock so that would be obvious immediately to me.  Considering I roll my West Germany RCA Amperex (weird combo of info I know) 6922 and the thing I notice most is lack of the air openness and the lacking in the higher spectrum say 4k Hz+, not a lack of mid-range.
  
 The only info not in my sig is there is a singular number on the bottom between the gold pins, 2.
  
 Ultron is definitely hard to find info on and I can't find info on that tube either.  It's one reason I haven't bought it.  The price is very good for a CCa tube if it is real and everything about that looks legit.  Most people charge $200+ per tube for a CCa from Siemens, but I couldn't justify that amount of cash with how happy I am with my current Siemens tube.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

For educational reasons anyone trouble shooting a USB possible problem here is what you need to know:
  

  
 Edit: Ok I was completely wrong on this with what I wrote first.
  
*You do not even need the unit powered on to check any of this.*
  
First thing, *REMOVE the tube* before you do anything.  This is mainly to protect it and it would make the step of removing the top cover impossible unless you have a strange tube. 
  
 If there is no device connected to the USB port then the voltage will read extremely low, so you can't simply read the USB jack with the unit powered on.  What you must do is connect the USB cable and open up the top of your unit.  Pull off the volume adjustment knob and take out the nut and washer below it.  If you for some reason still have the tube in, REMOVE IT.  Then I have found the easiest way to pop the top cover off is to use a small screwdriver and pry it up near the tube socket (be careful obviously).  Once you have popped the cover off you have now is full access to the PCB and the solder points for the USB.  The top cover should come off fairly easy once you remove the tube, volume knob, nut and washer, so if it is not coming off do not try to force it, check that nothing else is holding it down.  Most likely you forgot to remove the nut and washer under the volume knob.
  
 Here are some pictures to go along with the text below:
  
 (I left the close up with the probes on the solder points in a very large format if you click the picture and hit show original, you can see up VERY close 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )  One other note is I had to replace my USB jack, so that is not manufacturer soldering, if you think that is good or a bad thing I don't know.  I remember those pads being really crappy after desoldering though.
  
  

  

  
 Extremely large close up: http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/14436188/img/Random/Up-Close-USB.jpg
  
  
 Looking down at the unit with the socket tube at the top left and the volume knob at the bottom right you want to take a reading on the two USB solder points on the right (the top right and the bottom right points).  You can locate the USB by looking where the plug comes in to the unit, it is lined up exactly.  Once the unit connects to the PC you should read 5V or very close to 5V off those two solder points.  To verify we are at the right place you should have a surface mount capacitor right near by that reads C11.  If you follow up from the C those two solder joints in a vertical line are the two you are going for.
  
  

  
  
  
 If your readings are not near 5V and I mean 4.90V-5.10V (you need to keep the accuracy of the meter in use in mind), you have a problem.
  
 Now if my unit was under warranty I would stop here and contact Aune, telling them your USB port is not giving the proper voltage required for the unit to work properly.  If you are outside of the warranty or have voided it (like I did in 2 weeks of owning it), then continue reading.
  
  
 Before getting out your soldering iron and taking the jack out check a few things first.  Most obvious plug the AC adapter from the Aune T1 into a different outlet.  If that does nothing then check the AC adapter itself.  Plug in the AC adapter into a known good outlet (preferably a UPS, that is a battery backup by the way) and take a look at this:
  

  
  

  
  
*CAREFUL*, You need extremely steady hands to do this without arcing 12V-35V across the pins and possibly damaging the AC adapter.  I arced them on the first try and switched to my better insulated probes that have only the very end of the tip exposed so the rest is insulated.  Luckily the AC adapter still functions flawlessly.  Now the readings I obtained... those were strange.
  
 The best way to go about checking this is to mount the jack above in something like a soldering mini vice or helping hands.  If you don't have any of these tools carry it outside or wherever you have a normal vice.  If none of these are available use quality tape to secure it somewhere, I would suggest duct tape.
  
  
 Although that is obviously not our plug, it works exactly the same way.  You must check the 12V pin and see if you are getting the the proper 12V, then I believe the charge pin should be 25V, however I am getting 36.3V across the charge pin and 18.15V on the 12VDC pin.  The strangest part is with my multimeter (both of mine) set to DC Voltage I get squat, switch it to AC and I get readings.  If you ground off another source you get these readings 12 VDC pin: 0.95V and 1.9V (with multimeter on AC).  Apparently our power adapter is an AC out type and the readings above are normal when taking readings with AC.  A 12V reading in DC is going to show ~18V in AC, I would go into detail but if your pin readings are close to mine your adapter is fine.
  
 If the adapter is fine that means the USB plug is most likely at fault.  I have replaced more USB jacks then I can count because of how delicate they are compared to the rest of the components and anyone who has had the unit open could have easily knocked a cold solder joint loose.
  
 Replacing the USB jack is fairly simple if you have the soldering know how, just make sure when you do the 4 solder points that are close together you do not connect them together by accident with solder running between two.
  
 Any questions feel free to ask.
  
  
 Keep in mind though, you can try just reheating the solder on those 4 connection to a liquid and then letting them reform back to a solid and it might work.  Just a last ditch idea if everything above leads you to buying a new jack.
  
  
  
 These are the type of replacement jack you need: http://www.mouser.com/Connectors/USB-Connectors/_/N-88hmf?P=1z0yy6bZ1yzv4m1Z1yzxlpj
  
 I prefer Amphenol or Molex brands, they make quality products, that Molex I linked has gold plating!!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I would suggest buying ~3 of them, they are very easy to break while trying to get them into the holes on the first try, so don't screw yourself with just purchasing one.  That Molex is almost 3x the cost of the Amphenol by the way and Amphenol products are always top notch.  There are other Molex jacks that are cheaper and aren't gold plated, maybe I should have linked one of those instead, lol.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

To anyone who read that the first time before my edits, read it again, it is now correct.
  
 Did anyone know we had an AC out AC Adapter before I wrote this guide to diagnosing the USB?


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> To anyone who read that the first time before my edits, read it again, it is now correct.
> 
> Did anyone know we had an AC out AC Adapter before I wrote this guide to diagnosing the USB?


 
 Yeah someone asked before and it's a center tapped transformer, so it doesn't rectify at all, just has a 120V to 30V winding (or 220V to 30V winding, depending on the model) which is grounded halfway to get 15V, 0, 15V with respect to ground.
  
 Back here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/5895#post_10856232


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I missed that post, but yea we definitely have AC out AC Adapter that is converting 120V to what the unit wants (~36V and ~18V).  I was actually surprised when I found this out, I wasn't expecting that type of AC adapter on the Aune T1.  I'm guessing the 12V DC / ~18V is what the board is using and the tube is getting ~35-36V?
  
 I originally wrote that post to help a user who was trying to troubleshoot his USB jack and I ended up learning more about the unit when I started trying to verify voltages on my own unit.  In the end that is always a good thing though and hopefully it will help someone down the line.


----------



## Levaix

Alright, so I've been looking for a "next step" DAC to upgrade to, and I think I found it in the Mousai MSD192.

 http://www.mousaiaudio.com/

 It's basically the DAC portion from the Questyle Q192 without the amp and about half the price. I just got mine from the classifieds and it came in the mail today. A lot more neutral than my Aune T1 with Amperex 7308, but oh so sweet. My Purity Audio KICAS seems to like it, as well as my Sig Pros, and as for me... Well, I've lost 3 hours and counting so far.


----------



## SirMarc

Ran some speaker wire from my vintage denon I'm using as an amp with the t1 to my dahlquist dq20's and was a little disappointed with the way it sounded with my 7308, so as an experiment, I popped in my gold lion that was collecting dust and damn it sounds good. For anyone powering speakers, try the gold lion, you might get a pleasant surprise...


----------



## penmarker

I went to pick up my Aune T1 from the store for repairs since it has the channel imbalance, was greeted with a pleasant surprise. Since the Aune T1 MK2 is already out, the store instead ordered the MK2 DAC board to replace my faulty DAC board.
  
 Honestly though I have no memory of how it sounded before since I've been away from it for more than a month, but I'm just happy I got the newer version. The difference might be too small for me to notice anyway.
  
 Now pairing it with the Lovely Cube Premium, sounds heavenly. At last I can plan on rolling tubes.


----------



## truly194

I will get mk2 too, also replacement... And i will get Gold Lion tube  I think in next week i will have it in home 
  
 How it play with Lovely Cube?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I still do not understand why people are paying that much money ($40-$50) for Gold Lion tubes when you can get better NOS tubes for the same price or close.
  
 If you go back about 5-10 pages I explain in detail (with pictures and references) why NOS tubes are better in every aspect.  The only bad thing people can say is you have to trust the seller (Ebay or a Tube Website, same standards apply).
  
 A seller that multiple people in this thread have used (greengirl613) has an Amperex PQ up for sale right now at $48.99.  The reason this isn't a $80 Amperex PQ is because the triodes aren't balanced very well (8300/7350), that is a decent amount of difference, but you have 30 days to return it....  The worst you will get from that is an uneven sound output, but I doubt it.  Both triodes are well above the 5500/5500 NOS reference point.  If you did get an unbalanced output, send it back for a full refund.
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Amperex-PQ-6922-E88CC-Gold-Pins-Stereo-Tube-7L9-4C-Results-8300-73-/400794144734?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5d51314fde


----------



## SirMarc

My amperex 7308 is much better than the gold lion with my headphones, not even close really, but with my vintage receiver powering speakers its the other way around.  I'm glad I bought the gold lion.  That being said I did order another 7308 from upscale for a spare because I love it with my hd580's so much...


----------



## mikoss

I have to agree with @NCSUZoSo on this one... I really hear a lot better sound through NOS tubes, which is actually kind of sad since newer amps usually come with tubes that aren't vintage (and sound like crap). At the very least, it's worth buying a cheap NOS tube and comparing it. There are many to chose from, and they aren't all that expensive.
  
 @SirMarc what kind of speakers are you enjoying the gold lion tube with? I just upgraded to PMC speakers and they are amazing for tonality and air... very neutral and transparent... just need to upgrade the turntable now


----------



## SirMarc

Dahlquist dq20's. Very neutral and airy also. Ran me around 4k 25 years ago. Awesome speakers. Totally caught me off guard that the gold lion sounds better with them, but it does. The vintage receiver I'm using is a denon dra-835r with class a amp.


----------



## SirMarc

Damn, you have me thinking about my turntable I haven't used in years, a thorens td-145 with a sumiko blue point special cartridge. Might have to break that thing out. Have a ton of original pressings and mofi and dcc heavy vinyl **** I haven't heard in years


----------



## truly194

> I still do not understand why people are paying that much money ($40-$50) for Gold Lion tubes when you can get better NOS tubes for the same price or close.


 
  
 But who said that i bought it? I will get it for free  I have two old tubes - one is Russian tube, and the other is philips sq e88c. I prefer philips, but i'm very interested in sounding new gold lion.
  
 @SirMarc - I just bought HD580 - aren't these headphones too warm with aune?


----------



## SirMarc

The 580's are pretty neutral phones, you should be ok. I did find the amp in the t1 to be a little anemic though, which is why i use a vintage receiver as an amp. Talked my wife into getting me an asgard 2 for christmas. I'll keep you guys posted on how they sound...


----------



## penmarker

The amp portion of the Aune T1 is rudimentary. Its thin and bright, unsuitable for neutral headphones as it will make them sound bright and prone to sibilance. I now understand why there were those who were complaining that the Aune T1 isn't better than their built in on board sound processors on MacBook or other systems. The amp is the bottleneck in your chain, I suggest upgrading to a better SS amp whenever you are ready. The DAC however is great (for me, IMHO), and I'm pairing it with a LBC clone, it sounds really great and I don't think I'll upgrade it for a while. Not to mention how sexy the Aune T1 looks on my desktop, other DACs usually just look like white/black boxes with an led in front and a switch.
  
 Quote:


truly194 said:


> I will get mk2 too, also replacement... And i will get Gold Lion tube  I think in next week i will have it in home
> 
> How it play with Lovely Cube?


 
 It didn't play. It sings


----------



## truly194

Guys i was thinking about new amp and dac, but Your words give me to thinking. Maybe just new amp to beyers 880


----------



## penmarker

truly194 said:


> Guys i was thinking about new amp and dac, but Your words give me to thinking. Maybe just new amp to beyers 880


for now if you need to budget for amps and DACs, get the amp first. The DAC is seriously good, aune T1 amp is seriously the bottleneck haha.


----------



## MrEleventy

penmarker said:


> for now if you need to budget for amps and DACs, get the amp first. The DAC is seriously good, aune T1 amp is seriously the bottleneck haha.


Agreed. The DAC is quality stuff. Amp is meh. You would have to spend more than double to get something "better".


----------



## SirMarc

@truly, the dac  is pretty nice, especially with being able to roll tubes. wait till you hear the 580's with a better amp. good stuff man...


----------



## truly194

aune t1 mk2 and gold lion on board!


----------



## SirMarc

Well, what do you think?


----------



## SirMarc

Downloaded a 30 day free trial of a program called dvd audio extractor that allows you to covert mlp and pcm files from dvd audios to flac, and all i can say is damn!!! So far ive ripped about 5 of them, and they sound awesome. Listening to some porcupine tree 48/24 now and its ridiculously good. Check it out if you have some dvd audio discs laying around...


----------



## truly194

Anyone compared mkI and mkII head to head? I remember my combo aune t1 mkI + dt 880 250 ohm premium 05 as completely non-sibilance combo, great synergy. Now i have mkII and on very high volume there is so "sssssssssssssssssss..." - sibiliances at all. Is it just my imagination?


----------



## penmarker

truly194 said:


> Anyone compared mkI and mkII head to head? I remember my combo aune t1 mkI + dt 880 250 ohm premium 05 as completely non-sibilance combo, great synergy. Now i have mkII and on very high volume there is so "sssssssssssssssssss..." - sibiliances at all. Is it just my imagination?


I own the MK1 but fitted a MK2 DAC because the old board was faulty I've always remembered how it was, and still is, very sibilant on bright cans. The amp is bright and sibilant. I've never tried it on beyers though. Cheers!


----------



## mahelun

do you guys think it will power HD700 well?


----------



## Vortaku

I have the mk2 sitting on my night stand, I am trying to figure out a good pair of cans to pair with it. The joy lol


----------



## penmarker

mahelun said:


> do you guys think it will power HD700 well?


It will be be like driving the president around in a Honda Civic. Gets you to your destination, but not befitting the load. Save some money for future upgrades.


----------



## Vortaku

Just bought some akg 7xx edition. Hoping these pair well!


----------



## rwpritchett

vortaku said:


> Just bought some akg 7xx edition. Hoping these pair well!




Should be good, since the K7XX is basically the same as the K702-AE/K712. If I hadn't just bought a K702-AE I'd be all over that K7XX. What a deal!


----------



## Vortaku

rwpritchett said:


> Should be good, since the K7XX is basically the same as the K702-AE/K712. If I hadn't just bought a K702-AE I'd be all over that K7XX. What a deal!


 

 yeah my dt700pro 80s went out a few a week or so go, So I have been without cans, the price made those seem like a steal!


----------



## deFiniLoGy

In terms of the DAC capability, how do the T1 MK2 compare with the Audinst HUD MX2?
  
 I am going to pair either of them with the Matrix M-Stage AMP, driving a AKG K712 Pro.
  
  
 I'm looking for neutrality and details for the DAC as I think the warmth in my K712 is already enough 
  
 Thanks in advance!!


----------



## truly194

i was listening aune t1 mk2 dac and full tube amp and there was not big difference - it was OTL on Philips ecc88 SQ and 2 other tubes, but t1 amp was just less bass, and more bright. Not big difference, and i didn't notice any differences between technical side of sound of both amps.


----------



## creatip

definilogy said:


> In terms of the DAC capability, how do the T1 MK2 compare with the Audinst HUD MX2?
> 
> I am going to pair either of them with the Matrix M-Stage AMP, driving a AKG K712 Pro.
> 
> ...


 
  
 If going for neutrality, it's best to go with solid state dacs.


----------



## deFiniLoGy

creatip said:


> If going for neutrality, it's best to go with solid state dacs.




So is the Audinst solid state?

Also, are there any recommendation at a similar price point?


----------



## penmarker

truly194 said:


> i was listening aune t1 mk2 dac and full tube amp and there was not big difference - it was OTL on Philips ecc88 SQ and 2 other tubes, but t1 amp was just less bass, and more bright. Not big difference, and i didn't notice any differences between technical side of sound of both amps.


 
 Yep, that's about right. 
 What headphones were you testing it on?


----------



## creatip

definilogy said:


> So is the Audinst solid state?
> 
> Also, are there any recommendation at a similar price point?


 
  
 If it doesn't got any tube in it, it's solid state. Fiio E10 or E10k (different DAC chip) are also quite nice. Other than that, I don't know. I'm going for warm sounds, that's why I got the T1 in the first place.


----------



## deFiniLoGy

creatip said:


> If it doesn't got any tube in it, it's solid state. Fiio E10 or E10k (different DAC chip) are also quite nice. Other than that, I don't know. I'm going for warm sounds, that's why I got the T1 in the first place.




Interesting 

Another other suggestions from the forum?


----------



## creatip

So the headphone amp part of my Aune T1 got wrecked from my last attempt of changing the capacitors. I swear, the solder they're using is as hard as a rock!! In the meantime, I'm using my T1 as the DAC only, line out to Lepai amp (speaker amp, but runs just fine with my HE400). 
  
 E-mailed Aune, and turned out I can order just the headphone amp part, for $8 + shipping. Fixed it, and it's all good now


----------



## Chs177

creatip said:


> I'm using my T1 as the DAC only, line out to Lepai amp (speaker amp, but runs just fine with my HE400).


 
 Aune T1 as DAC with external amp sounds better with good quality external amp.


----------



## mikoss

Hey peeps,
  
 Anyone get their T1 to work with 24bit / 88kHz files? I have the mk1 and it won't play them. Just wondering if the mk2 does... Thx.


----------



## SirMarc

chs177 said:


> Aune T1 as DAC with external amp sounds better with good quality external amp.


very much agree, the amp is anemic with my 300 ohm senns. With a better amp they sing, especially with my amperex 7308


----------



## SirMarc

My player upconverts it to 96, but i have to increase buffer size or it glitches


----------



## creatip

chs177 said:


> Aune T1 as DAC with external amp sounds better with good quality external amp.


 
  
 Well, the Lepai is not a headphone amp. It's a speaker amp, so a lot of noise floor when used with headphones. I don't have other amps, that Lepai amp was just a make-do until I got the replacement part.  
  


sirmarc said:


> very much agree, the amp is anemic with my 300 ohm senns. With a better amp they sing, especially with my amperex 7308


 
  
 Which 300 ohms was it? HD650? Because I've tried plugging the HD650 directly to my Ipad 3, and it ran properly, with a little more volume/loudness to spare. My 35 ohms HE400 however, could only get to around 75-80% of my desired volume, out of the Ipad 3.


----------



## penmarker

Sensitivity determines whether a pair of headphones can be driven easily or not. The HE400 is 92.5dB while the HD650 is 103dB.
 Roughly understood by me, impedance implies how well it would scale with amplification.


----------



## SirMarc

Hd580"s. They played plenty loud with the gain all the way up, but there was no oomph. Hooked up a vintage receiver i had in the attic and was like, ok, now we're talking! Night and day difderence, the 580's came alive...


----------



## mikoss

sirmarc said:


> My player upconverts it to 96, but i have to increase buffer size or it glitches


 
 Yeah, I installed SOX for foobar, but I'd prefer to play the files natively. It's a pain in the ass that it supports 96kHz but not 88.2... also DSD would be really nice. Wish Aune would use the DSD1793 and give us DSD and 24/192 functionality. I've been using foo_input_sacd and it does a good job with dff/dsf files as well. 
  
 Not that I think 24/192 sounds any different than 24/96, but I just want to play the files without any resampling... picky picky I know.


----------



## SirMarc

It plays 48/24 natively, kind of weird that it doesnt do 88/24...


----------



## Hansotek

There's a huge difference between getting sufficient volume out of a headphone and fulfilling the sonic potential of a headphone.

I found the HD650 to be somewhat disappointing, veiled, loose and aenemic out of the Aune T1, as well. Running the T1's DAC out into a JDS labs 2x9V CMOY produced a sort of magic in the low mids, which was quite special.

When I upgraded to a Schiit LYR and some higher-end Telefunken tubes, the HD650s really started to sing. What started off as a sort of muddy and bland headphone, suddenly started to do something magical... It started to diappear off of my head and transport me into the studio with the artist.

The difference in these headphones is really quite startling as you scale up to better equipment, or match it with equipment that pairs with it in a special way. The point is, getting great sound out of high-end Senns isn't just about getting sufficient volume out of them.


----------



## SirMarc

Could'nt have said it better myself sir! When i bought the 580's 20 years ago, i was blown away by the sound. With the t1, not so much. I remembered i still had that receiver from back then and dug it out of the attic and hooked it up. Very happy now. By the way, if you have old senns laying around, sennheiser is very resonable with reapirs. My ear cups and headband were flat and the terminals were a little worn, i sent them in and they came back looking new and sounding awesome all for 80 bucks! Very impressive service by them. For those of you who dont know, the 580's are the older version of the 600's, same drivers, different grills...


----------



## SirMarc

Hansotek, have you tried the amperex 7308 with your 650's? They are awesome with my 580's


----------



## Hansotek

I have. The 7308 is my main tube on the T1. I'm not wild about T1 with HD650, but I found the Amperex to be a very good upgrade to the pairing. 

I would imagine T1 + Amperex 7308 would pair better with the 580 & 600 than the 650. I've found the 7308 to be a dream matchup with headphones with a lighter, more bouyant-sounding low-end. I absolutely LOVE the amperex 7308 tube with the DT880 (600ohm).


----------



## Chs177

mikoss said:


> Hey peeps,
> 
> Anyone get their T1 to work with 24bit / 88kHz files? I have the mk1 and it won't play them. Just wondering if the mk2 does... Thx.


 

 My Aune T1 MK1 is playing 24/96.
  
 [chs@oc1402622547 bin]$ cat /proc/asound/card*/stream*
 GFEC ASSP DigiHug USB Audio at usb-0000:00:1a.0-1.2, full speed : USB Audio
 Playback:
   Status: Running
     Interface = 3
     Altset = 2
     Packet Size = 582
    * Momentary freq = 96000 Hz* (0x60.0000)
  
 and not support 88200:
 Rates: 8000, 16000, 32000, 44100, 48000, 96000


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> Hansotek, have you tried the amperex 7308 with your 650's? They are awesome with my 580's




I've also done T1 with Amperex 7308 (as a DAC only) into LYR and the pairing is quite fantastic with the HD650 and the Beyer DT880. 

Compared to ODAC, the midrange is much more pleasant and musical on the T1 combo, but ODAC had better soundstage and deeper, cleaner bass.


----------



## SirMarc

T1 with 7308 to a vintage receiver with the 580's sound very good to me. Done for a while i think...


----------



## creatip

sirmarc said:


> Hd580"s. They played plenty loud with the gain all the way up, but there was no oomph. Hooked up a vintage receiver i had in the attic and was like, ok, now we're talking! Night and day difderence, the 580's came alive...


 
  
 Oh that's what you meant. When you said anemic, I thought you meant it couldn't get loud enough. What you described, I call it 'sound coloring'. Wideness, EQ, frequency separations, etc. It's like the capacitors mod with the T1. It doesn't sound louder, but quite better. 
  
  


mikoss said:


> Yeah, I installed SOX for foobar, but I'd prefer to play the files natively. It's a pain in the ass that it supports 96kHz but not 88.2... also DSD would be really nice. Wish Aune would use the DSD1793 and give us DSD and 24/192 functionality. I've been using foo_input_sacd and it does a good job with dff/dsf files as well.
> 
> Not that I think 24/192 sounds any different than 24/96, but I just want to play the files without any resampling... picky picky I know.


 
  
 They do have DSD DAC: http://pub.hifidiy.net/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=189&id=8


----------



## SirMarc

By anemic i meant thin sounding


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> T1 with 7308 to a vintage receiver with the 580's sound very good to me. Done for a while i think...




I bet! I've heard many people say 600/580 sounds best with vintage receivers. Based on my experience with the 7308 and neutralish headphones, I would bet that setup sounds absolutely incredible.


----------



## SirMarc

Was thinking about an asguard 2 to reduce the footprint of the receiver(which is huge on a coffee table lol) but it just sounds too good to change i think...


----------



## mikoss

creatip said:


> Oh that's what you meant. When you said anemic, I thought you meant it couldn't get loud enough. What you described, I call it 'sound coloring'. Wideness, EQ, frequency separations, etc. It's like the capacitors mod with the T1. It doesn't sound louder, but quite better.
> 
> 
> 
> They do have DSD DAC: http://pub.hifidiy.net/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=189&id=8


 
 I would buy this if it had the tube buffer. Damn.


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> Was thinking about an asguard 2 to reduce the footprint of the receiver(which is huge on a coffee table lol) but it just sounds too good to change i think...




I envy this mystical ability to "think about" getting a new piece of gear, and then NOT buy it. LOL!


----------



## Euphemia

How good are these with the HE-400? I'm thinking about maybe using a Genalex Gold Lion with it.


----------



## SirMarc

Lol, I even talked my wife into getting it for me for christmas! Thing is, the other night i was listening and really enjoying it, and said to myself screw it, im good. For now...


----------



## SirMarc

hansotek said:


> I envy this mystical ability to "think about" getting a new piece of gear, and then NOT buy it. LOL!


My luck i'd get the asgard 2 and like my receiver more...


----------



## Hansotek

euphemia said:


> How good are these with the HE-400? I'm thinking about maybe using a Genalex Gold Lion with it.




I love the Aune T1 with the HE400! It's simultaneously very fast sounding and very full sounding. A rare combo, indeed.


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> Lol, I even talked my wife into getting it for me for christmas! Thing is, the other night i was listening and really enjoying it, and said to myself screw it, im good. For now...




It's possible! I don't know if you've looked into the Bottlehead Crack + Speedball at all, but that could be a possible upgrade route if you get the jones to switch. I've heard many head-fiers call this the best amp for the 580/600/650 Senns. Plus, you'd have the satisfaction of building it yourself.


----------



## SirMarc

hansotek said:


> It's possible! I don't know if you've looked into the Bottlehead Crack + Speedball at all, but that could be a possible upgrade route if you get the jones to switch. I've heard many head-fiers call this the best amp for the 580/600/650 Senns. Plus, you'd have the satisfaction of building it yourself.


Somewhere down the road I'm thinking of doing senn hd700's, a lyr and the mid level schiit dac(can't think of the name) edit-bifrost


----------



## Hansotek

That's a pretty sweet endgame. I might spring for a Bifrost myself, if I see a deal on one tomorrow! Kinda doubtful though, Schiit doesn't really do sales, from what I understand. (And I probably have enough audio-related debt as it is!)


----------



## SirMarc

I want tubes somewhere in the chain. I have 2 7308's i could use in the lyr. But to be honest, pretty happy right now. Was listening to porcupine tree in 48/24 last night and got the magic. Pretty amazing considering how cheap this gear is(reletively at least lol)


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> I want tubes somewhere in the chain. I have 2 7308's i could use in the lyr. But to be honest, pretty happy right now. Was listening to porcupine tree in 48/24 last night and got the magic. Pretty amazing considering how cheap this gear is(reletively at least lol)




Yeah, tube rolling is so much fun. I remember how shocking it was when I plugged in the 7308's in the T1 a few months ago. It was so different and so unquestionably good, coming from the T1's stock tube. Everything was so much smoother, the soundstage was so much bigger and more realistic.

I just recently scored some vintage platinum-grade Telefunken E88CC's for my LYR, and the sound is like pure happiness flowing into my ears. They are still burning in, and it feels like they get twice as good with every listen. I can't imagine what they will sound like a month from now!


----------



## SirMarc

Nice!


----------



## Phishin Phool

Disregard, the response was erroneously geared towards a much earlier post


----------



## Nostro

Can anyone with an Orange Globe and an HE-400 say if it's a good match? I'm thinking about getting one, but not sure about those comments about the OG being weaker in the bass.


----------



## mikoss

nostro said:


> Can anyone with an Orange Globe and an HE-400 say if it's a good match? I'm thinking about getting one, but not sure about those comments about the OG being weaker in the bass.


 
 Haven't heard them with the HE400s, but I have with HE-500s...
  
 In my opinion, the Orange Globe's made in Holland with GAC stamps on them sound the best, and I found the bass to be adequate for sure. Midrange is probably what I love most about the OG tubes, and bass also sounds very good. They have a nice, holographic presentation that is warm without being overly forward... the mids are probably more "present" than the highs.
  
 I also have to say that I really didn't care for the German stamped Orange Globes I heard... they sounded bright to me and hurt my ears.
  
 OG's should be cheap enough to try... what genres do you enjoy with the HE-400s?


----------



## Asgardian

mikoss said:


> Haven't heard them with the HE400s, but I have with HE-500s...
> 
> In my opinion, the Orange Globe's made in Holland with GAC stamps on them sound the best, and I found the bass to be adequate for sure. Midrange is probably what I love most about the OG tubes, and bass also sounds very good. They have a nice, holographic presentation that is warm without being overly forward... the mids are probably more "present" than the highs.
> 
> ...


 
 Pretty much everything except rap, hip-hop, reggae, country and pop. I got this pair of GAE A-frames. Would have went with a GAC, but there weren't any under $50 (which was as far as I was willing to go for a tube).


----------



## Nostro

mikoss said:


> Haven't heard them with the HE400s, but I have with HE-500s...
> 
> In my opinion, the Orange Globe's made in Holland with GAC stamps on them sound the best, and I found the bass to be adequate for sure. Midrange is probably what I love most about the OG tubes, and bass also sounds very good. They have a nice, holographic presentation that is warm without being overly forward... the mids are probably more "present" than the highs.
> 
> ...


 
 Pretty much everything aside from rap, hip-hop, reggae, country and pop. I just got this pair of A-frame GAE PQ ones. Not sure how good they really are, but it's a start.


----------



## truly194

Guys, something strange has happened to my Aune T1 - i was writing about big problems with sibilance with dt 880. Also i had problems with normally tracks play - sometimes it stops play for a while (like 1-2 seconds). So i started to search this problem on this topic, i found that i should change buffor lenght (i'm using wasapi push, event doesn't work for mk2 to me). I couldn't change hardware bufor for 1000ms (in foobar preferences-> advanced-> playback). There was an error, but i changed it to 200ms - and sound has changed! There is no problem with sibilance now! Like on old mk1!!! 
  
 But i have still problem with stopping music...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

You have Buffer Length and Buffer Size, did you adjust both or just length?  Just want to find that out off the bat.


----------



## mikoss

nostro said:


> Pretty much everything aside from rap, hip-hop, reggae, country and pop. I just got this pair of A-frame GAE PQ ones. Not sure how good they really are, but it's a start.


 
 Very nice, let us know how you like them... my personal experience is to give them a good 20-30 hours "break in" time and then you should have a solid feel for how they sound. Nice price too, good scoop!


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> Haven't heard them with the HE400s, but I have with HE-500s...
> 
> In my opinion, the Orange Globe's made in Holland with GAC stamps on them sound the best, and I found the bass to be adequate for sure. Midrange is probably what I love most about the OG tubes, and bass also sounds very good. They have a nice, holographic presentation that is warm without being overly forward... the mids are probably more "present" than the highs.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Browsed the Orange Globes. They're quite costly though. Some even go for $100+ for a piece (not a pair) in ebay. I read a post earlier in this thread that 12AX7 (or was it 12AU7) is usable with the T1. The 12AX7/ECC83 of OG is a lot cheaper than the ECC88, I'm thinking of ordering it.
  
 So, does the 12AX7 really usable with the T1? What are the side effects, if any? The unit got hotter?


----------



## truly194

ncsuzoso said:


> You have Buffer Length and Buffer Size, did you adjust both or just length?  Just want to find that out off the bat.


 
 I have changed both, but i couldn't change buffer size to any size what i want to, there were some numbers that fit to aune t1 and computer, if i fill in other number (like 1000ms) there was an error.


----------



## rwpritchett

*@creatip*

To use a 12 series tube with the Aune T1, you must use a socket adapter because they are wired differently. Also, be patient. I've picked up some really nice vintage 6DJ8 tubes on eBay for <$10.


----------



## Vortaku

How does the gold lion tube stack up as an all arounder? I will be pairing it with akg 7xx, I listen to almost ANYTHING, so it is hard for me to get a very specialized tube. 
 I already have the gold lion so if it would work well, that would be awesome.


----------



## SirMarc

I find the amperex 7308 to be an excellent all-rounder, and its only 20-30 bucks more than the gold lion. Some people here think I'm crazy, but i do like the gold lion better to my speakers...


----------



## SirMarc

Anybody here using a denon dra-8xx series to power their phones? Its a late 80's, early 90's reciever that if I remember correctly ran me about 1200 bucks. I love it with the t1 as a dac, but I've been going back and forth for the past month on picking up an asgard 2. If its a lateral move, thats ok because of the reduced footprint, but i dont want it to sound worse. Guess I could get it and return it if I don't like it. Any input would be appreciated.


----------



## Vortaku

sirmarc said:


> I find the amperex 7308 to be an excellent all-rounder, and its only 20-30 bucks more than the gold lion. Some people here think I'm crazy, but i do like the gold lion better to my speakers...


 
 I got the gold lion free of charge, so that is why i even have it. I may look into the amperex 7308


----------



## SirMarc

vortaku said:


> I got the gold lion free of charge, so that is why i even have it. I may look into the amperex 7308


I would, its definately an eye opener. My first hell yeah moment with the t1. The 7308 takes a little while for the bass to open up though, so it might seem a little light on bass coming from the gold lion, but kills it everywhere else. Give it some time to break in and the bass gets perfect. My favorite tube for whatever I throw at it.


----------



## creatip

rwpritchett said:


> *@creatip*
> 
> To use a 12 series tube with the Aune T1, you must use a socket adapter because they are wired differently. Also, be patient. I've picked up some really nice vintage 6DJ8 tubes on eBay for <$10.


 
  
 Thanks for the heads up. I've tried searching in ebay for the socket adapter, but can't find one. Most results are 8 pin to 9 pin or vice versa. 
  
 Tried the keyword '12AX7 to 6922' and '12AX7 to 6DJ8', still can't find any useful links.....


----------



## Chs177

creatip said:


> Thanks for the heads up. I've tried searching in ebay for the socket adapter, but can't find one. Most results are 8 pin to 9 pin or vice versa.
> 
> Tried the keyword '12AX7 to 6922' and '12AX7 to 6DJ8', still can't find any useful links.....


 

 I seen one http://www.ebay.com/itm//261667818185
 But I don't know should it work or not.
 From my point of view it should not work because ECC83/ECC82/ECC81 have 12 volt heater voltage instead 6,3 volt for ECC88.


----------



## truly194

I have still big problem to stutter/scratching with my aune t1 mk2 on other computer... So propably it's problem with aune itself?


----------



## SirMarc

sirmarc said:


> Anybody here using a denon dra-8xx series to power their phones? Its a late 80's, early 90's reciever that if I remember correctly ran me about 1200 bucks. I love it with the t1 as a dac, but I've been going back and forth for the past month on picking up an asgard 2. If its a lateral move, thats ok because of the reduced footprint, but i dont want it to sound worse. Guess I could get it and return it if I don't like it. Any input would be appreciated.


No one?


----------



## penmarker

Oh man, been so busy with moving and work, haven't got time to sit down and listen to music properly. I miss my aune T1 + Lovely Cube combo.


----------



## xkonfuzed

sirmarc said:


> I would, its definately an eye opener. My first hell yeah moment with the t1. The 7308 takes a little while for the bass to open up though, so it might seem a little light on bass coming from the gold lion, but kills it everywhere else. Give it some time to break in and the bass gets perfect. My favorite tube for whatever I throw at it.




+1

Speaking of tubes I got a Russian USSR 6n23p a couple of weeks ago but, but I've been busy with schoolwork so I didn't have time to post impressions.

I got this tube for $9 shipped and it sounds pretty decent for the price. Think of it like the eh6922 but warmer with softer highs. Soundstage is much narrower, but imaging is surprisingly good. This makes for a very intimate and lush experience. Bass quantity is about the same as 6922, a bit less in the sub bass but tighter and better controlled. I plug in this tube whenever I'm not using the Amperex 7308. It's an excellent replacement for the stock tube, but definitely not as good as the Amperex.


----------



## EVOLVIST

It's pretty difficult to read through all of the pages, so I'll ask:

Has anyone connected the RCA outs from the Aune to dual male XLRs to another amp? Any noise, hiss or garble?

And if so, how has your experience been?


----------



## MrEleventy

evolvist said:


> *It's pretty difficult to read through all of the pages,* so I'll ask:
> 
> Has anyone connected the RCA outs from the Aune to dual male XLRs to another amp? Any noise, hiss or garble?
> 
> And if so, how has your experience been?


Good things there's a search function?  

Kidding aside, can't say I have nor do I recall anyone that has. But plenty of ppl have used the rca outs to various gears with great success if that helps any. I don't think the output connector type should matter at all.


----------



## cgib

Has anyone experienced a constant buzzing/humming coming from the T1 MK2? I've had the T1 since early summer and haven't had this issue until this week. I have the T1 powering headphones and speakers, and the buzzing is there no matter what I'm listening to. I've tried connecting the USB from the T1 directly to my computer (instead of a hub), and I've checked all the connections. It's noticeable enough that I've switched to listening to all my audio directly from my computer's output. Anyone have any ideas about what it could be or how to fix it?


----------



## Levaix

cgib said:


> Has anyone experienced a constant buzzing/humming coming from the T1 MK2? I've had the T1 since early summer and haven't had this issue until this week. I have the T1 powering headphones and speakers, and the buzzing is there no matter what I'm listening to. I've tried connecting the USB from the T1 directly to my computer (instead of a hub), and I've checked all the connections. It's noticeable enough that I've switched to listening to all my audio directly from my computer's output. Anyone have any ideas about what it could be or how to fix it?


 
 Coming from the Aune itself or your headphones?

 Also, no I have not. Sorry. lol


----------



## EVOLVIST

mreleventy said:


> Good things there's a search function?
> 
> Kidding aside, can't say I have nor do I recall anyone that has. But plenty of ppl have used the rca outs to various gears with great success if that helps any. I don't think the output connector type should matter at all.




Yeah, I searched for the search function. Alas, I could not find it. 

Thanks for your help! I have an SPL Auditor coming, so I really pray for a good connection.

My Aune T1 is dead silent. Totally blackness. Can't change that now. 

Still, a buddy of mine is saying to get a DI box. Might be overkill.


----------



## penmarker

evolvist said:


> Yeah, I searched for the search function. Alas, I could not find it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 My Aune T1 is dead silent too. I'm using it with my Lovely Cube Premium amp through the RCA out, plugged in my 16ohm 110dB IEMs and turned the volume all the way up - still dead silence. Low gain though.
 So the Aune is both silent through the headphone out and line out.


----------



## mikoss

cgib said:


> Has anyone experienced a constant buzzing/humming coming from the T1 MK2? I've had the T1 since early summer and haven't had this issue until this week. I have the T1 powering headphones and speakers, and the buzzing is there no matter what I'm listening to. I've tried connecting the USB from the T1 directly to my computer (instead of a hub), and I've checked all the connections. It's noticeable enough that I've switched to listening to all my audio directly from my computer's output. Anyone have any ideas about what it could be or how to fix it?


 
 have you tried swapping tubes?


----------



## sopi

Hi, 
I just got my aune t1 mk2 today. It worked perfectly on my desktop pc. 

However, when I tried to connect it with a OTG usb cable to my samsung note 3 and also note 12.2, both came out no sound. 

I have seen someone posted it worked on his stock LG phone rom, im just wondering if it has something to do with the different usb chip aune uses on the mk2 device. from what i have done researching online, mk1 uses te7022 chip while mk2 uses sa9027. 

Any help would be much appreciated. I really want to get this device to work with my android phone and tablet. 

Thanks!


----------



## SirMarc

There's 2 things you can try, a different otg cable, my first one didn't work, and an app called USB audio pro. Its like 10 bucks, but its great. I have an HTC one m8 and a nexus 10 tablet, and that's what I use. I have a mk1 though...


----------



## SirMarc

If I'm remembering correctly, the nexus 10, which is made by Samsung, doesn't work without USB audio pro. I would download it and try it right away and if it doesn't work get a refund. I think you have 15 minutes. Good luck, that's how I do all my listening.


----------



## cgib

levaix said:


> Coming from the Aune itself or your headphones?
> 
> Also, no I have not. Sorry. lol


 
 Through headphones/speakers, only when music is playing
  
 Quote:


mikoss said:


> have you tried swapping tubes?


 
 I don't own any other tubes, so I haven't


----------



## rwpritchett

cgib said:


> I don't own any other tubes, so I haven't




Maybe try hooking up a source to the RCA inputs and see if the problem persists. That would bypass USB, the tube buffer, and DAC and point to a problem with the amp. If the problem goes away, try another tube.


----------



## sopi

thanks for your reply SirMarc.
  
 I think the issue is at the usb chip. After hours of research, i found that dac with te7022 usb chip usually work with android OTG. 
  
 One question, when I plug the Aune T1 mk2 to my PC, do I need to change sample rate and bit depth in control panel setting? The default setting in control panel is 44.1 16bit, should i change it to 96 16bit? How come I cannot see 24 bit? All i see are selections from 32 to 96khz, all in 16bit.
  
 am i missing something?
  
 thanks!


----------



## Sonikku13

I'm curious, what's the best tube for the Aune T1 for bigger soundstage and better imaging? I got Audio-Technica AD900X headphones, and I want to cater to the strengths of my headphone.


----------



## Levaix

sonikku13 said:


> I'm curious, what's the best tube for the Aune T1 for bigger soundstage and better imaging? I got Audio-Technica AD900X headphones, and I want to cater to the strengths of my headphone.


 
 I only ever had the EH 6922 and Amperex 7308, but the Amperex definitely kicked up the soundstage to the next level. I was going to try a Telefunken E88CC next, but at that price I decided it made more sense just to buy a new DAC (and I got a good deal, so that certainly helped the decision). Well, and I already had an external amp I was super happy with.

 But yeah... Amperex 7308. Probably the least expensive of the "top tier" 6922s.


----------



## siisx

Hi,
  
 First : sorry for my basic English.
  
 My Aune T1 (I had for around 2 years) had "died". It doesn't work anymore. When I put on the device I hear a noise and it smells something burnt. Well, I guess the device is dead... I need a new one now and am wondering if I can get something similar. I also can get a new Aune T1... in the way I have already lamps. I don't know. I'd like you to tell me which options I have.
  
 My little installation : MacBook Pro <--- USB ---> Aune T1 <--- RCA to Jack TRS ---> M-Audio BX5 D2
  
 Do you think I could improve audio quality with another device (maybe a bit more expensive).
  
 Note : I don't really use the headphone amp actually. I used the Aune T1 more like a DAC. I listen 95% of the time via my speakers so...
  
 Thank you !


----------



## Levaix

siisx said:


> Hi,
> 
> First : sorry for my basic English.
> 
> ...


 
 Hey there!

 Since I've been using an external amp, I just recently upgraded from the Aune T1 to a Mousai MSD192 DAC, and I couldn't be more happy with it. If you can pick one up for under $300, it's well worth the price jump (I'd argue it's still worth it at full retail, just a bit harder to swallow). If you want to spend less, ODAC seems like a good option. Can't really comment on much else as I've mostly heard what I own and some other high end stuff.


----------



## Besdomny

levaix said:


> Hey there!
> 
> Since I've been using an external amp, I just recently upgraded from the Aune T1 to a Mousai MSD192 DAC, and I couldn't be more happy with it. If you can pick one up for under $300, it's well worth the price jump (I'd argue it's still worth it at full retail, just a bit harder to swallow). If you want to spend less, ODAC seems like a good option. Can't really comment on much else as I've mostly heard what I own and some other high end stuff.


 
  
 Hi,
  
 I've been using my Aune T1 MK2 for a little longer than half a year and I've been very happy with it (despite „only“ using an Electro Harmonix Gold Pin 6922). I've been tempted to try out the famous Amperex but never found one that I wanted to afford.
  
 Well, anyway, the Aune got me hooked on the tube sound. That's why I decided to buy a tube amp as a Christmas present for myself. I bought a Cayin mt 35 mk2 amp with a headphone out and until I get my hands on my bookshelf speakers I'm listening to my music with the Aune T1 connected to the amp. I also connected the new amp to my old DVD Player (Pioneer 757ai, SACD) just to have another source.
  
 I love it already. I have to say that the first minutes I was a bit underwhelmed (maybe I didn't wait long enough to let the tubes fully heat up) but with every song the sound was getting better and better and now I am listening to my collection all day already...with a big smile.
  
 I am excited about how my speakers will work with the tube amp but first I have to drive to France to get them.


----------



## Vortaku

My aune is cutting out randomly for a few seconds at a time, if i use th headphones directly fromt he copmputer case there are no issues.
 Anyone have any ideas how to fix this?


----------



## Koolpep

vortaku said:


> My aune is cutting out randomly for a few seconds at a time, if i use th headphones directly fromt he copmputer case there are no issues.
> Anyone have any ideas how to fix this?




Hi, try using a USB 2 port and not a USB 3 port from your PC. If that doesn't help use a USB Hub and see if it still happens. For some reason many dacs don't like USB 3 ports. Even if it is a USB 2 port it can be remedied with a hub. 
Cheers,
K


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Guys look at what I just snagged off Ebay for $25:
  


> GE-6DJ8-ECC88-SMOKIE-VACUUM-TUBE-1966-MATCH-PAIR-FOIL-O-GTR-SWEET-TONE-G02


 
  
  

  
  

  
  
 I offered $25 with free shipping and they took it.  They have one pair left:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/221632935150?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  
  
 Oh guys BTW, if I powered the headphones and only used the buffer, can I pull the amp board out of the unit?  Just wondering, haha.


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> Guys look at what I just snagged off Ebay for $25:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 If you're using the RCA line out jacks in the back, you can pull out the headphone amp circuit board. Happened to me, I fried the headphone amp board when doing a mod, so for a while I pulled out the head amp circuit, and use another amp feeding off T1's line out.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Wait you can't remove the amp PCB, it has the headphone connection on it.
  
 I can't believe nobody grabbed that other pair of Smokies for $25 shipped (make an offer).


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> Wait you can't remove the amp PCB, it has the headphone connection on it.
> 
> I can't believe nobody grabbed that other pair of Smokies for $25 shipped (make an offer).


 
 I bought some smokies and never really loved them... what genre do you like to listen to with them? Electronic? I heard someone suggest them for electronic music before... just wondering.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> I bought some smokies and never really loved them... what genre do you like to listen to with them? Electronic? I heard someone suggest them for electronic music before... just wondering.


 
  
 I listen to a lot of classic rock and bluegrass along with rap and jazz.  Pretty much any genre and I've only heard good things about these tubes and the tests were too good for $25 shipped so I grabbed them up.
  
 All tubes are going to sound different and mine tells you they are from 1967 and use the plate foil getter.  Both triodes measuring equally on both tubes.  Tubes will be marked with a sticker probably telling me the 118%/118%
  
 Between the capacitor mods and the tube rolling, I'm excited to have Smokies in the collection at such a low price.  Plus just headsets can make a huge difference if a tube "sounds better".  I will be powering my T1 pretty soon with a pre-amp Front Channel from my Yamaha RX-V863 as long as I can somehow mute the outgoing sound from the receiver...


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> Wait you can't remove the amp PCB, it has the headphone connection on it.
> 
> I can't believe nobody grabbed that other pair of Smokies for $25 shipped (make an offer).


 
  
 Yes, but it's still operational, the DAC part that is. The only connection left is through the RCA line out, feeding to another amp.
  
 I can't imagine someone would do that deliberately though. What happened to me was an accident, because I fried the headphone pcb during the caps mod.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

So here is the back of my receiver:
  
  

  
  
 I'm assuming I just use the pre-out fronts to the Aune T1, but my question is how do I kill the sound to main speakers?  Do some receivers have that set up to be done easily and some make you walk around in a circle.   Maybe I just change zones?  However all the pre-out signal is tied to anything I do on the receiver and obviously I am sending 3 high quality RCA cables into the Multi Channel Inputs right besides the Pre-Outs.
  
  
 BTW on those Smokies that are now sold out, they have the "Foil O Getter" design.
  
 This is what one looks like if you've never seen one (I do not believe this is even a GE tube, but looks US).
  

  
 Now keep in mind back in 1967 we were going through a huge upswing in the demand for reliable and accurate tubes.  They are able to use that "foil" and both triodes still come in balanced at 113%/113% (above NOS values), to me that is impressive.
  
 GE calls it a "Plate Foil Getter" design.
  
  
 This may be the tube at night:
  

  
  
 This is what the pics looked like on Ebay:
  

  

  
  
 Ok now look at this next picture, I believe these were military issued.  Did GE Smokies go to the military in 1967?
  

  
  
 You see the same USA and the dots used on certain tubes.  I think these either were last minute shipments or recycled military grade glass, one or the other is a win I suppose unless there is another explanation.  Makes it unique even if it has no affect on sound.
  
  
 Then of course you have this again:
  

  
 Me though, I'm into this type of glass art blowing:


----------



## hk6230

The tube lighting looks cool.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I also took a chance on supposed Tesla tubes that are unmarked and military surplus:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/121503365531?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  


> You are bidding for one Tesla ECC88
> Tube is NOS, never used
> without printing on a glass, military supplies reserve
> Made 1960's, original TESLA tube, NOT FAKE JJ!
> Rare tube


 
  
  
 I always like when people type Rare into any Electron Tube ad, technically they are all rare if related to consumer/pro audio.
  

  

 Country of Manufacture:Czech Republic


----------



## sandab

ncsuzoso said:


> So here is the back of my receiver:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Doesn't it mute the speakers automatically when you plug in a headphone?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Wait, we want to go from the front panel headphone jack and not the line pre-out in the rear to the RCA in on the T1 line in?


----------



## PETEREK

I'm selling my mint Aune T1 with a 7308 tube for $125 in the classifieds if anyone is interested. Just needing it gone.


----------



## MrEleventy

ncsuzoso said:


> Wait, we want to go from the front panel headphone jack and not the line pre-out in the rear to the RCA in on the T1 line in?


I'm at a loss, what are you trying to accomplish? I've reread your posts and still don't quite get it.


----------



## SirMarc

mreleventy said:


> I'm at a loss, what are you trying to accomplish? I've reread your posts and still don't quite get it.


 I was thinking the same thing...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mreleventy said:


> I'm at a loss, what are you trying to accomplish? I've reread your posts and still don't quite get it.


 
  
  
 Well I was thinking about it this morning and I think the issue is that receiver already has a 5.2 signal from my modded ZXR and I believe that is where the confusion comes in.  You have the receiver involved with the ZXR and now I am also trying to add in the T1.  I was thinking I could use the pre-outs on the rear of the receiver and send that out, but it seems like I need to run line out from the T1 not line in.
  
 All I wanted to see was if my Yamaha RX-V863 has a better headphone amplifier than the Aune T1 does.  Do I need to run Line Out from the unit to any RCA in that takes red/white (at least) audio on the receiver?


----------



## SirMarc

Line out on the t1 to an open input on the receiver. Then select the input on the receiver and plug in hour headphones. The receiver should mute the speaker output


----------



## MrEleventy

sirmarc said:


> Line out on the t1 to an open input on the receiver. Then select the input on the receiver and plug in hour headphones. The receiver should mute the speaker output


+1, What he said. I've done the same and found that my receiver, Onkyo NR414, has a stronger "thicker" sounding amp.

And yeah, when headphones are plugged in, the speaker output are muted.

E: BTW, Plugging headphones into the T1's headphone out doesn't mute the RCA out like some ppl assumed/wanted. It will always output at it's max volume.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Yea my Yamaha will mute when headphones are plugged in, I just got crossed in multiple signal paths when trying to explain/ask something simple, haha.


----------



## SirMarc

"BTW, Plugging headphones into the T1's headphone out doesn't mute the RCA out like some ppl assumed/wanted. It will always output at it's max volume."
That's not a bad thing, it makes it very easy to a/b to see which amp you prefer


----------



## MrEleventy

sirmarc said:


> "BTW, Plugging headphones into the T1's headphone out doesn't mute the RCA out like some ppl assumed/wanted. It will always output at it's max volume."
> That's not a bad thing, it makes it very easy to a/b to see which amp you prefer


Not saying whether it's a good or bad thing. Just stating a fact. There's been others here who were disappointed when they found out that the headphone amp didn't have a muting relay for the RCAs because they wanted to have speakers running off the RCAs and plugging in headphones didn't kill the output to their speakers so they had to manually power off the speakers.


----------



## SirMarc

You obviously misinterpreted my meaning there. It is a good thing for ncsu, because it makes it easy for him to see if the Yamaha sounds better...


----------



## MrEleventy

sirmarc said:


> You obviously misinterpreted my meaning there. It is a good thing for ncsu, because it makes it easy for him to see if the Yamaha sounds better...


Ahh, gotcha.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

So basically I can leave both live and even though my speakers will turn on I'll have the cans on, so I can turn them down as I am plugging directly back into the T1.  Hell just kill the receiver before you unplug..
  
 Which one do yall have your money on?
  
 A) $999 Yamaha Receiver from 2008 + Aune T1 w/ DAC + Tube Buffer only
 B) Aune T1 Only
  
 I'll let you know tonight for sure.
  
 This is being tested by/driven into SoundMAGIC HP100 headphones.
  
  
 Oh btw, there is a headphone amplifier on my ZXR too, haha, so I have three total.  With the Mylar Cap mod on my ZXR I have really come to like its sound signature.


----------



## SirMarc

mreleventy said:


> Ahh, gotcha.


 All good man. That's what I hate about online conversations, so much is lost without looking at the other person and everything becomes too literal...
Ncsu, forgot about that part lol. My vintage receiver has speaker a and b buttons to turn the speaker output off


----------



## NCSUZoSo

sirmarc said:


> All good man. That's what I hate about online conversations, so much is lost without looking at the other person and everything becomes too literal...
> Ncsu, forgot about that part lol. My vintage receiver has speaker a and b buttons to turn the speaker output off


 
  
  
 Yea most of the ones I have had do, but this one actually does not:
  
  

  
  
 Speakers Button along with changing Zones does nothing to the output.  I see no easy way besides just muting the output, which is pretty simple.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I couldn't get a clean signal out of my Yamaha compared to my Aune T1, even after I disabled any inputs for that path.
  
 So until I figure out what I did wrong the Aune T1 wins on it's own right now, but I know something had to be wrong because that Yamaha has to have a better headphone amp in there.
  
 I see Nichicon FG's, Panasonic's and Lelon's off the bat.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

What are the replacement part numbers for our two dip switches?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I am assuming these DE3441 Dip Switches I picked up will work:
  

  
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/370879611812?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  
  
 About $2.15/ea after shipping, I'm going to take better care of these 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
 Or you can get like a total of ten from China for less than $1.30 for all ten (+$2 SH), could take 2-3 weeks though.


----------



## MrEleventy

I read the question and started to reach for my Aune T1 so I can flip it over and look ............. and then realized that I no longer had an Aune T1. lol


----------



## Hansotek

ncsuzoso said:


> So basically I can leave both live and even though my speakers will turn on I'll have the cans on, so I can turn them down as I am plugging directly back into the T1.  Hell just kill the receiver before you unplug..
> 
> Which one do yall have your money on?
> 
> ...




If you want to add an on/off switch for your speakers into the mix, you can pick up a Schiit SYS for about $50. Plug the RCA out from the T1 into one of the inputs of the SYS and don't plug anything into the other input. Then run the output to the receiver. 

When you hit the input selector button on the SYS, switching to the empty input will function as a mute button for your receiver, cutting off the signal from the T1.


----------



## mikoss

I like the sound from my Yamaha AS500 amp... it seems to have a nice presentation and doesn't push anything forward too much... I usually just plug my headphones right into the T1 though and keep the amp for speakers. No idea how the headphone amp in the Yamaha AS500 compares to the T1, but it did cost a bit more money as well 
  
 The phono stage is also quite nice in the AS500... I use it quite and lot although I do plan on eventually trying to upgrade to a Pro-Ject Tube Box... let us know how the headphone amps compare for your setup...


----------



## lwrs10

So for the last week or so I have been comparing the T1 to many other dacs. Many other very expensive dacs. The T1 is still king on the dac side....not so much on the headphone side....


----------



## creatip

lwrs10 said:


> So for the last week or so I have been comparing the T1 to many other dacs. Many other very expensive dacs. The T1 is still king on the dac side....not so much on the headphone side....


 
  
 You meant the headphone amp part? Yeah, Aune's headphone amp part is just 'so-so', nothing special. When the dip switches set to full +16dB, it's quite 'dirty' sounding. 
  
 Understandable though, the headphone amp circuit is only $8. I know for sure, because I wrecked the original one, and I ordered a few replacements from Aune. It costed $8.


----------



## Rozenberg

Can anyone recommend me an amp that fit with the aune? Currently considering O2 or Vali because I also wanna buy Q701.


----------



## Hansotek

rozenberg said:


> Can anyone recommend me an amp that fit with the aune? Currently considering O2 or Vali because I also wanna buy Q701.



I'm a big fan of the O2, but it wouldn't be my first choice to pair with AKGs. I feel like AKGs need a warm, musical (and very powerful!) amp to sound their best. I find the O2 tends to sound better with more "fun" sounding headphones like DT990s, Fidelio X1s and Grados. But everybody's tastes are different.

If you are looking for a deal, Amazon has a couple of b-stock Schiit Asgard 2 amps for $199 at the moment. I understand it pairs very, very well with the T1. They will have a small cosmetic defect of some kind, but they come brand new with a full 5 year warranty from Schiit at a deep discount.


----------



## SirMarc

I use a t1 with an amperex 7308 and an Asgard 2 with senn hd580's and it sounds great.


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> I use a t1 with an amperex 7308 and an Asgard 2 with senn hd580's and it sounds great.



Took the plunge, eh? How do you like the sound of the Asgard compaired to your vintage receiver?


----------



## SirMarc

At first I wasn't happy, but after breaking it in it sounds really good. The vintage dynaco sca-50 is warmer, and has a bit more bass, but after breaking in the Asgard 2, I like it better. A/Bing the 2 is super easy because of the line outs on the Asgard. The sound is close, but after volume matching as best I could, and going back and forth a zillion times, the Asgard just has better detail. Both are warm sounding, but the vintage integrated may be a bit too warm for me. I decided to keep both, and use the integrated for my turntable, which has turned into a horror story lol. Hooked up my thorens td 145 I haven't used in years, and there's a very nasty hum in the right channel, awesome. Then I go into the attic to grab my spare, which is an older technics, and no sound out of the left channel. I can't win lol...


----------



## SirMarc

Trying to decide whether to rip the thorens aprart and do some resoldering(I'm sure its a ground issue), get it repaired, or maybe pick up a rega rp1. Hmmm...


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> At first I wasn't happy, but after breaking it in it sounds really good. The vintage dynaco sca-50 is warmer, and has a bit more bass, but after breaking in the Asgard 2, I like it better. A/Bing the 2 is super easy because of the line outs on the Asgard. The sound is close, but after volume matching as best I could, and going back and forth a zillion times, the Asgard just has better detail. Both are warm sounding, but the vintage integrated may be a bit too warm for me. I decided to keep both, and use the integrated for my turntable, which has turned into a horror story lol. Hooked up my thorens td 145 I haven't used in years, and there's a very nasty hum in the right channel, awesome. Then I go into the attic to grab my spare, which is an older technics, and no sound out of the left channel. I can't win lol...




Interesting, though not totally unexpected. I'm tempted to pick one up for a home rig upgrade for that b-stock price, but another amp is about the last thing I need right now.

Sucks about your turntable! I paid a visit to a little shop in the Twin Cities called the Needle Doctor yesterday to audition an HD800. The headphone was great, but it made me realize how desperately I need to upgrade my sources!


----------



## Rozenberg

hansotek said:


> I'm a big fan of the O2, but it wouldn't be my first choice to pair with AKGs. I feel like AKGs need a warm, musical (and very powerful!) amp to sound their best. I find the O2 tends to sound better with more "fun" sounding headphones like DT990s, Fidelio X1s and Grados. But everybody's tastes are different.
> 
> If you are looking for a deal, Amazon has a couple of b-stock Schiit Asgard 2 amps for $199 at the moment. I understand it pairs very, very well with the T1. They will have a small cosmetic defect of some kind, but they come brand new with a full 5 year warranty from Schiit at a deep discount.


 
  
 Oh schiit it's something more expensive. Though I'd love to get it, Germany doesn't have it. 
 Things that I have found are mixed up, it kinda makes me confused.
 One said O2 pairs good with AKG while others said Vali is better than O2 and pairs also good with AKG.
 Or I might just buy HD600 instead


----------



## SirMarc

hansotek said:


> Interesting, though not totally unexpected. I'm tempted to pick one up for a home rig upgrade for that b-stock price, but another amp is about the last thing I need right now.
> 
> Sucks about your turntable! I paid a visit to a little shop in the Twin Cities called the Needle Doctor yesterday to audition an HD800. The headphone was great, but it made me realize how desperately I need to upgrade my sources!


What headphones are you using? I really like the dac section of the t1, but the amp was not doing my headphones justice. Upgrading the amp made a giant difference. I feel 200 bucks is a steal for a class a amp


----------



## SirMarc

rozenberg said:


> Oh schiit it's something more expensive. Though I'd love to get it, Germany doesn't have it.
> Things that I have found are mixed up, it kinda makes me confused.
> One said O2 pairs good with AKG while others said Vali is better than O2 and pairs also good with AKG.
> Or I might just buy HD600 instead :confused_face(1):


My hd580's are basically the older version of the hd600's, same drivers, different grills, all parts interchangeable. The t1 with a good tube and the Asgard 2 pair very well with the 580/600's. End game, at least for a while lol...


----------



## Hansotek

rozenberg said:


> Oh schiit it's something more expensive. Though I'd love to get it, Germany doesn't have it.
> Things that I have found are mixed up, it kinda makes me confused.
> One said O2 pairs good with AKG while others said Vali is better than O2 and pairs also good with AKG.
> Or I might just buy HD600 instead :confused_face(1):



I'm sorry if I added to your confusion. It's really more of a matter of personal taste. People are just sharing their unique opinions, there's no definnitive best, only a "best for your preferences."

If you prefer a very analytical and neutral sound, O2 and AKG make a wonderful pairing. Some people might find this combo a bit boring, but if you want a lot of detail and soundstage and don't care to add extra punch and warmth to the sound, it might be for you.

I haven't tried the Vali, so I can't comment on it. 

For what it's worth, I think if you have the option of choosing a Q701 or HD600, the HD600 will be a better investment for most people long term. It pairs well with anything and everything musically and scales up to infinity with your equipment... But again, it's all a matter of personal preferences.


----------



## Rozenberg

sirmarc said:


> My hd580's are basically the older version of the hd600's, same drivers, different grills, all parts interchangeable. The t1 with a good tube and the Asgard 2 pair very well with the 580/600's. End game, at least for a while lol...


 
 Or maybe I'll just buy the headphones first and deal with the T1 built in amp for a while....
 I don't really want the O2 because everything's in front and has batteries.
 The Schiit might be the better option, I could buy the Vali right away but need to wait longer for Asgard
  


hansotek said:


> I'm sorry if I added to your confusion. It's really more of a matter of personal taste. People are just sharing their unique opinions, there's no definnitive best, only a "best for your preferences."
> 
> If you prefer a very analytical and neutral sound, O2 and AKG make a wonderful pairing. Some people might find this combo a bit boring, but if you want a lot of detail and soundstage and don't care to add extra punch and warmth to the sound, it might be for you.
> 
> ...


  
 That's what I thought too, but I think most popular desktop amp will sound better to me. And yes I do like details and soundstage 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 But the problem with O2 is as mentioned. 
 Even the Aune itself actually sound pretty good already to me, but I'm now curious on how it will improve with desktop amp. Because you know.... this is, uh... head-fi.
 I'm grateful I got the Aune because I don't want to charge my X3+Cayin C5 every night after I use it while at home


----------



## Hansotek

T1 vs. O2 is not night and day at all. Knowing what I know now, I'd say this: buy the end game headphone you want and use the T1 while you save up to buy the right amp for it. You'll save yourself a lot of money that way. Otherwise, you end up bleeding money on incremental upgrades trying to get the sound you want out of lesser equipment. Cry once, as they say... It's cheaper to spend $1,000 once than it is to spend $150 10 times.


----------



## Rozenberg

hansotek said:


> T1 vs. O2 is not night and day at all. Knowing what I know now, I'd say this: buy the end game headphone you want and use the T1 while you save up to buy the right amp for it. You'll save yourself a lot of money that way. Otherwise, you end up bleeding money on incremental upgrades trying to get the sound you want out of lesser equipment. Cry once, as they say... It's cheaper to spend $1,000 once than it is to spend $150 10 times.


 
 True though. The sound from my T1 is a bit different from my X3 combo but I don't hate it. Most likely because of the tube.
 Open back headphones is more important for me now since I'll be needing it most when I begin my temporary move to my friend's house.
 Or maybe I could play around with tubes. The rocket 6N23P and Mullard ECC88 aren't really expensive but I think I'll go with the rocket first


----------



## NCSUZoSo

If you tell us what you are using the T1 for we can suggest tubes we have tried, however you have to keep in mind almost nobody is using the same headphones, haha.
  
 I recommend my German Siemens 6922 for critical listening (but these tubes are expensive, if they are real and both triodes ~match)
  
 For all around listening I'd go with GE Smokies, which can be found for half the price of the Siemens and they have a great sound too.
  
 Of all the tubes I have or had, I use my Amperex 6922 the least.


----------



## creatip

rozenberg said:


> Oh schiit it's something more expensive. Though I'd love to get it, Germany doesn't have it.
> Things that I have found are mixed up, it kinda makes me confused.
> One said O2 pairs good with AKG while others said Vali is better than O2 and pairs also good with AKG.
> Or I might just buy HD600 instead


 
  
 This is my stereotype:
  
 - Tube devices give a distinct sense of warm tone that I can't quite pinpoint/replicate with an SS device + EQ. The sounds are grouped close together near you giving the sense of intimacy. In an analogy, if you're playing a song, it feels like they're performing in your living room. 
  
 - SS devices give a sense of 'precision', especially in the mid and high frequencies. The sounds are wide and scattered around you, giving the sense of a wide space. In the same analogy, it feels like you're in a small concert hall watching a performance.
  
 I've tried this with mix and matching T1 with ALO Pan Am. T1 is a tube DAC + SS amp, while the Pan Am is the opposite, SS DAC + tube amp. When I went all tube, tube DAC + tube amp, like I said above, warm, close, intimate. When I switched to all SS, it suddenly felt very wide and spacious. Same music player, same songs, same headphone, 2 people (including me) confirmed the same impression.


----------



## SirMarc

I like a hybrid set up. Warmth from the t1 tube dac, speed and punch from the Asgard 2. Good combo. Reminds me of the old days with a good turntable and a good ss amp. Best of both worlds...


----------



## copajohn

Just paired the T1 as a DAC with a Woo Audio WA6-se.  Lots of tubes.  Oh my, does it sound special!  Makes the Grado RS1s weep with joy!
  
  
 Quote:


creatip said:


> This is my stereotype:
> 
> - Tube devices give a distinct sense of warm tone that I can't quite pinpoint/replicate with an SS device + EQ. The sounds are grouped close together near you giving the sense of intimacy. In an analogy, if you're playing a song, it feels like they're performing in your living room.
> 
> ...


----------



## Rozenberg

Ended up buying Russian 6N23P-EV because stock almost empty and offer ended in less than 20h.
 Well, gotta wait till it arrives.
  
 Currently using my Aune again. Home sweet home.
 Now I don't want a tube amp, so using time to consider O2 or Magni.


----------



## SirMarc

I've heard those 2 amps are lateral moves. I'd do the b stock Asgard 2 if you can.


----------



## Hansotek

rozenberg said:


> Ended up buying Russian 6N23P-EV because stock almost empty and offer ended in less than 20h.
> Well, gotta wait till it arrives.
> 
> Currently using my Aune again. Home sweet home.
> Now I don't want a tube amp, so using time to consider O2 or Magni.



Moving to O2 or Magni would be paying a lot of money for a very small difference. You are better off saving a little more for a true upgrade or take the cheap route and try upgrading the capcitors on the T1's amp section.


----------



## Rozenberg

hansotek said:


> Moving to O2 or Magni would be paying a lot of money for a very small difference. You are better off saving a little more for a true upgrade or take the cheap route and try upgrading the capcitors on the T1's amp section.


 
  
 Currently going for open headphones
 What's the true upgrade though? I don't think I want to replace my Aune soon, if I had to upgrade I'll buy an amp for sure. Is Asgard 2 a better choice?


----------



## SirMarc

I'm using an aune t1 with amperex 7308 as my dac and an Asgard 2 as my amp with sennheiser hd580's(essentially the same as hd600) and it may be end game for me. The Asgard 2 is a pretty substantial upgrade to the amp in the t1. I love the dac in it though...


----------



## Rozenberg

sirmarc said:


> I'm using an aune t1 with amperex 7308 as my dac and an Asgard 2 as my amp with sennheiser hd580's(essentially the same as hd600) and it may be end game for me. The Asgard 2 is a pretty substantial upgrade to the amp in the t1. I love the dac in it though...


 
  
 I think I've seen you mentioning the Asgard before. If it's the best choice, then I'll wait until February for Asgard
 Maybe that's for the best indeed


----------



## SirMarc

I would second hansoteks advise though, get the headphones you really want first. The 600's sound pretty good out of the t1 and will get you by until you upgrade the amp. Then you'll see what the 600's can really do...


----------



## Rozenberg

Might get the Q instead. Didn't find much stock on cheaper HD600 here although this is Germany...
 But welp, new open headphones in January to enjoy my Aune with!


----------



## Hansotek

rozenberg said:


> Might get the Q instead. Didn't find much stock on cheaper HD600 here although this is Germany...
> But welp, new open headphones in January to enjoy my Aune with!



You can set price alerts for amazon on camelcamelcamel. I don't know if that changes anything... I do like AKGs, but I would reccommend the K712 or the K702 65th Anniversary Edition over the Q701. Q701/K701 are best with a super powerful warm amp. AKGs have a tendency to sound thin unless they have a TON of current running through them. Just my two cents.


----------



## negrete19

mreleventy said:


> +1 on the Orange globe. Made my jaw drop when paired with dt880s. I get the same feeling new with a sylvania tube, 6bk7b


 

 any tube else that it makes you that feeling?? that sylvania still that good?? not over heating problems?
  
 Regards and thanks for your opinions!
  
 edit:
 also I would like to ask about the equipment you people are using, bcs I was Reading almost the 400 pages and some of you are using the DAC to give signal to a AMP or AVR for a speakers and others for headphones, and that it make me a bit confused about the tube`s profiles...bcs seems that a good tuve for speakers is not the same for headphones...personally I play music with a beyer DT880 pro 250ohm , AKG 551, Vsonic gr07, and AKG k319.
 What do you think??


----------



## MrEleventy

negrete19 said:


> any tube else that it makes you that feeling?? that sylvania still that good?? not over heating problems?
> 
> Regards and thanks for your opinions!
> 
> ...


Never had any heating issues with any tubes that I've tried/used. My mainstays were the Orange Globe and the Sylvania. I did try others but none jive with me the same way the Sylvania and Amperex did. 

You are correct that different tubes are good for different applications. What's good for headphones (Slightly rolled off highs) can be terrible for speakers (Slightly rolled off highs). I believe most of us have said what we're using or we're using and with which tube. Hopefully. 

FWIW; Headphones I've used on my Aune T1(As dac or dac/amp) : DT770, DT880, T90s, T1s, HD600, Denon D2000, and AKG Q701.


----------



## negrete19

do you mean this one:
http://www.ebay.es/itm/SYLVANIA-6BK7B-VINTAGE-ELECTRONIC-TUBE-MADE-IN-USA-/170112162833?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item279b799c11
  
 I have the T1 and I am waiting from the States a 6922 harmonix, to improve the 6N11...(I was thinking to start from the "factory upgrade" to take perspective)
  
 I just bought this DAC-AMP here in Norway, I hade before Matrix m-stage so is my first time with tubes and I am a bit lost....but it call my atention your expresión about this tuve and the idea that you are using also the dt880....bcs it does not seems so expensive this tube...do you this the sylvania improves significantly the sound level from the harmonix?
  
 some fellow forum qualify the Harmonix pretty good and the price is affordable compared to 7308 and the like that can cost over 50 euros.
 From my point of view, perhaps my most successful investment would be changed by K702 DT880 if I look scene or detail, better than randomly changing tubes.


----------



## MrEleventy

negrete19 said:


> do you mean this one:
> http://www.ebay.es/itm/SYLVANIA-6BK7B-VINTAGE-ELECTRONIC-TUBE-MADE-IN-USA-/170112162833?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item279b799c11
> 
> I have the T1 and I am waiting from the States a 6922 harmonix, to improve the 6N11...(I was thinking to start from the "factory upgrade" to take perspective)
> ...


That's the one. I paid way less than that. $7 or 8 USD. 

I agree, the best upgrade or change you can get is by getting new headphones. Those will make up 80-90% of your enjoyment. If you don't like how the headphones sound, all the dacs and amps in the world won't change your mind. dac/amps/tubes will get you the last 10%.


----------



## Charliemotta

Sylvania tubes are underrated. I have a number of them including these.
  
*SYLVANIA JAN 6DJ8 ECC88 VACUUM TUBE MATCH PAIR 1973 GREEN HORNETS*


----------



## negrete19

mreleventy said:


> That's the one. I paid way less than that. $7 or 8 USD.
> 
> I agree, the best upgrade or change you can get is by getting new headphones. Those will make up 80-90 of your enjoyment. If you don't like how the headphones sound, all the dacs and amps in the world won't change your mind. dac/amps/tubes will get you the last 10%.


 

 I thought that too.....now I have the dt880 pro 250ohms, but I am missing the soundstage of the k551 or the k319, and I thought to use the tube to find that by "hardware" instead using any EQ or changing the headphones....aparently this dt880, not having the same scene, are very analitics, I do not know if to the level of the Q701.
 obviously the tube series, 6N11, gives me the feeling that I'm missing much of the quality of these headphones. right? is more, I would say that my takstar hi2050 with my matrix reach higher in soundstage and detail, although less controlled bass and treble somewhat uploaded. I hope it's all because of the tube.


----------



## negrete19

charliemotta said:


> Sylvania tubes are underrated. I have a number of them including these.
> 
> *SYLVANIA JAN 6DJ8 ECC88 VACUUM TUBE MATCH PAIR 1973 GREEN HORNETS*


 
  
 Interestingly,
 find differentiates between these 6DJ8 and 6BK7 (A / B) ?? these last , the 6BK7, achievement not frame them in any profile of this table


----------



## MrEleventy

negrete19 said:


> I thought that too.....now I have the dt880 pro 250ohms, but I am missing the soundstage of the k551 or the k319, and I thought to use the tube to find that by "hardware" instead using any EQ or changing the headphones....aparently this dt880, not having the same scene, are very analitics, I do not know if to the level of the Q701.
> obviously the tube series, 6N11, gives me the feeling that I'm missing much of the quality of these headphones. right? is more, I would say that my takstar hi2050 with my matrix reach higher in soundstage and detail, although less controlled bass and treble somewhat uploaded. I hope it's all because of the tube.


Try stretching out the DT880 Pros a little more. They clamp tighter which shrinks the soundstage to a degree. If you relax the clamp, the soundstage should widen up a bit. I had the Prems when I owned the DT880s and I found the soundstage to be on par or better than the K550s. 

Another factor of note is that the Pros are 250 ohms, they'll want more voltage than current. I'm not sure the little amp in the T1 can provide enough to really pull the best performance from the 880s.




charliemotta said:


> Sylvania tubes are underrated. I have a number of them including these.
> 
> [COLOR=333333]*SYLVANIA JAN 6DJ8 ECC88 VACUUM TUBE MATCH PAIR 1973 GREEN HORNETS*[/COLOR]


I don't know if they're underrated but I definitely enjoy them. Still have some but as 6SN7s. As a matter of fact, there's one slotted in my Darkvoice 336 right this moment.


----------



## cj42

i'm interested in the T1, but the amp's output impedance is relatively high to 32ohm headphones (i have SoundMAGIC HP100 and Grado SR60i). doesn't that affect the SQ / signature of the headphones? that high output impedance of the amp makes me wonder whether to get this or modi + diy O2. did anybody compare T1's dac with schiit modi / stoner accoustics UD120 ?


----------



## mikoss

cj42 said:


> i'm interested in the T1, but the amp's output impedance is relatively high to 32ohm headphones (i have SoundMAGIC HP100 and Grado SR60i). doesn't that affect the SQ / signature of the headphones? that high output impedance of the amp makes me wonder whether to get this or modi + diy O2. did anybody compare T1's dac with schiit modi / stoner accoustics UD120 ?


 
 The modi is dirt cheap... I have one and use it just for tv audio if my T1 is being used elsewhere... for its price, it's a bargain. The sound out of the T1 really varies depending on which tube you plan on using. If, for example, you compare the stock tube to an Amperex Orange Globe tube ($20 or so), you'd probably hear quite a difference.
  
 The modi sounds more like a solid state component than the T1 with most tubes... I generally hear good soundstage and ability to distinguish between different instruments with the modi, and also good bass. The T1 can have a very warm/lush sounding presentation in comparison. I had a pair of Grado SR225 headphones and they sounded very nice with the T1, although I would imagine that the 10ohm output impedence would change the signature very slightly, compared to a much lower impedence output...
  
 If you want to play around with tubes a bit, I would recommend the T1... if not, the modi is a great dac for the price.


----------



## Vinnces

Just got my Aune T1 Mk2 from Massdrop.  Anybody got any recommendation on tubes for J-Pop and Anime songs?  Will be listening to them on a HD 650 and a AKG K7XX and hopefully a HD 700 soon.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

I need some clarification: is it possible to bypass the DAC completely?


----------



## Chs177

williamleonhart said:


> I need some clarification: is it possible to bypass the DAC completely?


 

 Yes, If you will use RCA input. But T1 's amp section is not so good to use it alone.
 DAC section of T1 is pretty good with a good tube. Best way to use T1 as a DAC not as a ss amp.


----------



## mikoss

vinnces said:


> Just got my Aune T1 Mk2 from Massdrop.  Anybody got any recommendation on tubes for J-Pop and Anime songs?  Will be listening to them on a HD 650 and a AKG K7XX and hopefully a HD 700 soon.




Good:
Amperex 6dj8 (holland orange globe is nice)
Amperex 7308 (better specs, long life...)
Siemens e88cc or e188cc

Cheaper:
Voskhod 'rocket' 6n23p
Philips jan 6922
Sylvania green logo 6dj8
GE grey glass 6dj8


----------



## Vinnces

mikoss said:


> Good:
> Amperex 6dj8 (holland orange globe is nice)
> Amperex 7308 (better specs, long life...)
> Siemens e88cc or e188cc
> ...


 
  
 Thanks!


----------



## cj42

mikoss said:


> The modi is dirt cheap... I have one and use it just for tv audio if my T1 is being used elsewhere... for its price, it's a bargain. The sound out of the T1 really varies depending on which tube you plan on using. If, for example, you compare the stock tube to an Amperex Orange Globe tube ($20 or so), you'd probably hear quite a difference.
> 
> The modi sounds more like a solid state component than the T1 with most tubes... I generally hear good soundstage and ability to distinguish between different instruments with the modi, and also good bass. The T1 can have a very warm/lush sounding presentation in comparison. I had a pair of Grado SR225 headphones and they sounded very nice with the T1, although I would imagine that the 10ohm output impedence would change the signature very slightly, compared to a much lower impedence output...
> 
> If you want to play around with tubes a bit, I would recommend the T1... if not, the modi is a great dac for the price.


 

 thanks for the info. i went for the Modi.


----------



## mikoss

cj42 said:


> thanks for the info. i went for the Modi.


 
 Cool, really don't think you'll regret that choice. The T1 is a bit of a chameleon with the ability to swap different tubes and experience their different sounds, but the Modi does do a good job. For the cost it's really a no-brainer. Also poked around reading other people's reviews and a lot of them mention the soundstage and instrument separation, so I think it does a very good job with presentation.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

chs177 said:


> Yes, If you will use RCA input. But T1 's amp section is not so good to use it alone.
> DAC section of T1 is pretty good with a good tube. Best way to use T1 as a DAC not as a ss amp.


 
 Thanks. My friend 's going to lend me his T1 in a few days. Too bad none of my tubes are compatible with the T1.


----------



## Chs177

williamleonhart said:


> Thanks. My friend 's going to lend me his T1 in a few days. Too bad none of my tubes are compatible with the T1.


 

 You can buy Tesla ECC88 or E88CC. Its have a reasonable pricing.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Hey guys, I've been absent from this thread for a while, but I've run into a problem (and had an unexpected headphone change).  I have a strange issue after replacing my DIP switches with ones just like it (I assume anyway) http://www.ebay.com/itm/370879611812?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT.  I am getting all green lights from the amp PCB, but when I try to listen to anything I can barely hear anything.  It is so faint I couldn't tell you if it was guns going off or a concert.  It's like if you take out the tube, but worse (yes I tried multiple tubes).  Does anyone have any guesses on what is going on here?  I get my replacement headphones in finally and apparently I can do all this modding with caps galore, but DIP switches...  One thing I did notice that I am now going to check out after thinking about it, the socket wasn't firmly anchored when I was putting the 2nd tube in, I remember noticing that.
  
 Also my SoundMAGIC HP100's started producing a rattle at a specific frequency...  There are a lot of good parts to this though, first off they have the HP150 now that has some things redesigned, but audio is untouched compared to HP100.  They have a two year warranty instead of a one year like the HP100's.  The cost of the HP150's was ~$25 less than I paid for the HP100 this time last year.  I like all the changes they made to the set, especially ditching the coiled cable and the ear pads are more comfortable.  The only real downside to having to RMA the headphones was the 6 days I was without any real headphones and the ~50 hours it will takes to break these in (but that isn't really a negative).


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> Hey guys, I've been absent from this thread for a while, but I've run into a problem (and had an unexpected headphone change).  I have a strange issue after replacing my DIP switches with ones just like it (I assume anyway) http://www.ebay.com/itm/370879611812?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT.  I am getting all green lights from the amp PCB, but when I try to listen to anything I can barely hear anything.  It is so faint I couldn't tell you if it was guns going off or a concert.  It's like if you take out the tube, but worse (yes I tried multiple tubes).  Does anyone have any guesses on what is going on here?  I get my replacement headphones in finally and apparently I can do all this modding with caps galore, but DIP switches...  One thing I did notice that I am now going to check out after thinking about it, the socket wasn't firmly anchored when I was putting the 2nd tube in, I remember noticing that.


 
  
 I think I got the same/similar problem before when changing the caps (caps mod). Desoldered old ones, but it was a very messy job. Soldered the new one, PCB got green light, sounds like I'm using a broken tube. I think there's a severed connection, or small stuffs got burnt by the solder. Ended up ordering a replacement of the whole PCB.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I think you misread where my problem originated.  I have had the cap mod done and going for probably 9 months, but recently I had to replace my DIP switches.  When I replaced those and tried my headphones I had no sound, well not what I would call sound.
  
 Can someone else look at their T1 and tell me if you can shake the tube socket?
  
  
 I guess the first thing I need to do is re-hook up the line out on the T1 to my receiver and see if I can get sound that way.  If so it tells me the problem lies on the amp PCB.  Most likely something to do with the DIP switches, but I do not see how that could cause this.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> I think you misread where my problem originated.  I have had the cap mod done and going for probably 9 months, but recently I had to replace my DIP switches.  When I replaced those and tried my headphones I had no sound, well not what I would call sound.
> 
> Can someone else look at their T1 and tell me if you can shake the tube socket?


 
 Mine has always had some play... where the porcelain connects to the connections beneath. It wiggles a bit... nothing too crazy but it is noticeable.
  
 edit: try an ohmmeter from the tube socket connections to the base below?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Good idea on checking the socket for continuity.
  
 Thanks for the info on your socket, I kind of figured it was normal once I had a look again.  There is a chance that this is related to the socket though with what is going on with the sound.
  
 One thing though, I thought we could pull the tube and still get sound from what I remember.  If I pull the tube now I get no sound at all which would point you back to the amp PCB wouldn't it?  I think if I can get sound out of my receiver I am going to re-flow the solder on those DIP switches.
  
  
 If there is a problem with the amp section why is it displaying both green lights?  I thought that was the all clear?


----------



## mikoss

Hmm not quite sure. I can try pulling my tube tonight and let you know. Extremely low volume, I'd think would be a tube issue... at least it was for me on some other amps before (had a couple tubes go and the volume was super low afterwards) But since you swapped tubes, maybe it's the socket. If you want me to check any points for continuity/voltage, I'd be able to do that as well. Just at work and don't have the T1 with me.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

It's the amp PCB, I am running Line Out into my Yamaha RX-V863 and I have sound with my old trusty Siemens 6922 tube.
  
 So now that I know that where do I move forward from here to troubleshoot the amp PCB?  Surely I put those DIP switches in correctly..
  
 Can someone tell me what the two green lights on the amp PCB mean?  In order to understand what isn't working it helps to know what is working like how I know the DAC is good. Now that I think about it the DIP switches probably could cause this.


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> I think you misread where my problem originated.  I have had the cap mod done and going for probably 9 months, but recently I had to replace my DIP switches.  When I replaced those and tried my headphones I had no sound, well not what I would call sound.
> 
> Can someone else look at their T1 and tell me if you can shake the tube socket?
> 
> ...


 
  
 Yes, different different part, same symptoms. I wasn't referring to the part, but the symptoms. In my case, the line out also worked normally, just the head amp pcb that was fubar.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I'm still stuck here guys, I was hoping to hear back from two PMs I sent out, but so far I'm at the same place as the last post I made.  I guess I am going to desolder and resolder these DIP switches.  I don't guess there is some chance the DIP switches I purchased are different from the stock ones??  They look identical to me in every way and a DIP switch is extremely simple, so simple I could solder a semi-permanent gain setting using some simple solid core wire.
  
 This is a simple change to the T1 (replacing the DIP switches) and I'd like to hear at least some ideas on diagnostics to the problem.  From simple Google searches I can't find any definite info on what the two green lights mean on the amp PCB.  I am assuming one light is the left channel and one is the right, but no idea on what they actually mean.  Common sense tells me it is getting values inside of what it wants to operate correctly, but for whatever reason I can't use the internal amp of the T1, I have to use my receiver and the line out on the T1.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> I'm still stuck here guys, I was hoping to hear back from two PMs I sent out, but so far I'm at the same place as the last post I made.  I guess I am going to desolder and resolder these DIP switches.  I don't guess there is some chance the DIP switches I purchased are different from the stock ones??  They look identical to me in every way and a DIP switch is extremely simple, so simple I could solder a semi-permanent gain setting using some simple solid core wire.
> 
> This is a simple change to the T1 (replacing the DIP switches) and I'd like to hear at least some ideas on diagnostics to the problem.  From simple Google searches I can't find any definite info on what the two green lights mean on the amp PCB.  I am assuming one light is the left channel and one is the right, but no idea on what they actually mean.  Common sense tells me it is getting values inside of what it wants to operate correctly, but for whatever reason I can't use the internal amp of the T1, I have to use my receiver and the line out on the T1.


 
 Yeah, D8 and D11 are definitely per left and right channel.
  
 Ohming out the stock dips, on is completely closed (has 0 ohms), and off is completely open (high resistance). (I'm ohming from the solder joints under the dip switches... from "1" across to the "On" side, and "2" to the "On" side.)
 You could easily check the dips you installed the same way... I'm also reading continuity from 1 to 2 on both dips.
  
 As for the DAC and RCA amp, it should operate 100% fine without the headphone amp board installed... you can pull the headphone amp portion out, and plug the RCA outputs to another amp and everything should work fine using the USB input. If that doesn't work, something is shot on the main board.
  
 Kind of hard to diagnose without a schematic, and since Aune doesn't have one posted, someone would have to find a way to trace everything out and draw a schematic. You could try emailing Aune and requesting a copy of a schematic... Let me know if you want me to make any other readings that may help.
  
 edit: ok sounds like your DAC/amp portion is working fine, just have a problem with the headphone amp. Order another one from Aune maybe?  @creatip ordered one for $8... 
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/6465#post_11160858


----------



## Paspie

I've had a T1 now for one year and a half now, so just to evaluate:
  
 The drivers for it in ALSA (the main audio interface in Linux) are incredibly buggy, particularly when I have to use a hub or a docking station where the USB ports aren't necessarily 'separate' from a hardware perspective. I've tried it with Pulseaudio, right now I'm using it without, but ever since I added more peripherals to my laptop, ever since I couldn't have the T1 in a port directly on the motherboard, I've had stuttering problems. If only I had the cash for a proper PC.


----------



## Chs177

paspie said:


> I've had a T1 now for one year and a half now, so just to evaluate:
> 
> The drivers for it in ALSA (the main audio interface in Linux) are incredibly buggy, particularly when I have to use a hub or a docking station where the USB ports aren't necessarily 'separate' from a hardware perspective. I've tried it with Pulseaudio, right now I'm using it without, but ever since I added more peripherals to my laptop, ever since I couldn't have the T1 in a port directly on the motherboard, I've had stuttering problems. If only I had the cash for a proper PC.


 

 Ok. I had an Aune T1 around half year and I have no problems with ALSA at all. I'm usually plug T1 directly in port in the my laptop.
 What version of Linux you are using? What player you are using? What ALSA version you are using?
 I'm now on Fedora 21 (was on Fedora 20), ALSA version is 1.0.28. I'm using DeadBeef audio player.


----------



## Paspie

I'm on openSUSE 13.1, my laptop is a ThinkPad T510.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> Yeah, D8 and D11 are definitely per left and right channel.
> 
> Ohming out the stock dips, on is completely closed (has 0 ohms), and off is completely open (high resistance). (I'm ohming from the solder joints under the dip switches... from "1" across to the "On" side, and "2" to the "On" side.)
> You could easily check the dips you installed the same way... I'm also reading continuity from 1 to 2 on both dips.
> ...


 
  
  
 If they are selling replacement amp PCBs for $8, that probably means they had $5 or so invested in them..  That almost makes me want to buy something to replace the internal amp, but obviously I still want the stock one to work.
  
@creatip said he bought more than one, maybe he'd sell one of his extras or maybe even trade for some nice capacitors I ended up with as extras 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Thanks for the info, I missed his post on buying replacements.
  
  
 Edit:
  
 I may be able to use my Creative ZXR's Aux In and compare it against my Yamaha's.  That is if I can set the T1 as the default device and get output from my ZXR's headphone amp, but if I had to guess I'd say that won't work.  Doing that may take using two computers 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




  I wish I could figure out why I can't get a clean signal out of my receiver.  First thing I guess is to try another RCA cable, but the one I have is a quality cable.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I just found the problem with my amp PCB, I've got two resistors that are damaged.  I guess those green lights don't mean that much..
  
 No idea how that happened, but I'm definitely going to need one of those awesome $8 PCBs!


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> I just found the problem with my amp PCB, I've got two resistors that are damaged.  I guess those green lights don't mean that much..
> 
> No idea how that happened, but I'm definitely going to need one of those awesome $8 PCBs!


 
 It's all good... welcome to the club. You, me and @creatip are exclusive members 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Unless someone else managed to wreck their T1 temporarily and kept it a secret...


----------



## Rozenberg

Uuurgh.... still waiting for my 6N23P-EB tube..... It takes long...
 So far loving my T1, but just want to try warmer sound on my K7XX. Is there any (cheap) tube that colors the sound?


----------



## creatip

rozenberg said:


> Uuurgh.... still waiting for my 6N23P-EB tube..... It takes long...
> So far loving my T1, but just want to try warmer sound on my K7XX. Is there any (cheap) tube that colors the sound?


 
  
 Any tube will color the sound. That's the main reason people go with tubes, and consequently the main reason purists (those who're seeking to get the most transparent audio as possible) hate tube devices.
  
 Vokshod should be cheap and warm.


----------



## Rozenberg

creatip said:


> Any tube will color the sound. That's the main reason people go with tubes, and consequently the main reason purists (those who're seeking to get the most transparent audio as possible) hate tube devices.
> 
> Vokshod should be cheap and warm.


 
  
 Maybe I just got bored with stock tube sound. I wanna test first how the sound changes.


----------



## SpiderNhan

@Rozenberg
  
 I highly suggest a Holland Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8. They're relatively cheap and not far off sounding from the more expensive (some consider top of the line) Amperex 7308. I wasn't so keen on what different tubes would sound like, but the difference between the AOG 6DJ8 and the EH6922 is literally night and day. I'm so sure of it that I will buy your AOG 6DJ8 off of you if you don't like it.


----------



## Rozenberg

spidernhan said:


> @Rozenberg
> 
> I highly suggest a Holland Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8. They're relatively cheap and not far off sounding from the more expensive (some consider top of the line) Amperex 7308. I wasn't so keen on what different tubes would sound like, but the difference between the AOG 6DJ8 and the EH6922 is literally night and day. I'm so sure of it that I will buy your AOG 6DJ8 off of you if you don't like it.


 
  
 Kinda hard to find it in Europe
 Closest I could find is in UK for 19 pounds excl. shipping
 Well, I gotta see how my russian tube gonna perform first


----------



## tiobilli

Can It be used with 9V batteries with some adaptor like this one?:

http://www.ebay.es/itm/390939552444?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Can someone give me the resistor values for R58 and R59 on the amp PCB?  If I am lucky they are something common and I have through hole resistors that will work in my collection.
  
 Although, I had my mind semi-blown last night once I had the amp PCB removed from the T1 and ran it through my Yamaha RX-V863.  I guess having two blown resistors on the amp PCB was introducing noise into the circuit, even when using the line out. 
  
 Once I removed the amp PCB and tried a different line in on my Yamaha the T1 suddenly sounded better than I have ever heard it before.  The sound signature was warmer and had a fullness that was lacking before.  Also keep in mind this is with a new set of HP150 headphones that haven't even been broken in yet.  There is no doubt once I have the money to spend on more audio equipment I will get something like the Schiit Magni.  That $8 amp PCB is definitely the bottleneck of the T1, but for the size of the unit and the price, I understand why they had to go with such a weak amp.  Is there something a little cheaper than the Schiit Magni that you all would recommend for pairing with the T1?


----------



## creatip

tiobilli said:


> Can It be used with 9V batteries with some adaptor like this one?:
> 
> http://www.ebay.es/itm/390939552444?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


 

 There's a big chance the battery, or the unit, or both gonna fry. Reason? The power supply included clearly state that the output is AC, not DC. I did similar mistake once, plugging a DC power supply to an AC device, the DC power supply went pop, and smelled like fried rotten egg. 


ncsuzoso said:


> Can someone give me the resistor values for R58 and R59 on the amp PCB?  If I am lucky they are something common and I have through hole resistors that will work in my collection.
> 
> Although, I had my mind semi-blown last night once I had the amp PCB removed from the T1 and ran it through my Yamaha RX-V863.  I guess having two blown resistors on the amp PCB was introducing noise into the circuit, even when using the line out.
> 
> Once I removed the amp PCB and tried a different line in on my Yamaha the T1 suddenly sounded better than I have ever heard it before.  The sound signature was warmer and had a fullness that was lacking before.  Also keep in mind this is with a new set of HP150 headphones that haven't even been broken in yet.  There is no doubt once I have the money to spend on more audio equipment I will get something like the Schiit Magni.  That $8 amp PCB is definitely the bottleneck of the T1, but for the size of the unit and the price, I understand why they had to go with such a weak amp.  Is there something a little cheaper than the Schiit Magni that you all would recommend for pairing with the T1?


 
  
 Those little button like things that look kinda like the LED, right? I measured 23 on my DMM. I measured all 6 of them (in case I got the wrong one), and they all measured the same, 23.


----------



## mikoss

Bringing this up since we're talking about the gain dips lately...
  
 I always heard everyone who was asked on this thread recommend using the highest gain setting for higher impedance headphones (like the HD-650's, at 300 ohms nominal impedance), so I had my dips at +16db forever... recently I decided to put them back down to 0db just to see if it made a difference...
  
 I'm almost certain it has made a difference... I hear more audible decay especially with vocals (reverb that wasn't audible at +16db). It also sounds more "tubey" and less crisp/solid state. I hear a noticeable more amount of "bloom" which really makes me think setting the gain higher might be compressing things somehow, and/or resulting in a minor loss of dynamics.
  
 I have the volume pot dialled much higher than normal, to achieve the same listening volume as usual, but I still have plenty of room, so I'm leaving my dips at 0db. I prefer this sound.
  
  
 Would enjoy having some impressions from people who were also rocking 8 or 16db and try going back to 0db for a bit. (I would also love doing a blind listening test as well... any idea if the dips can safely be changed on the fly?)
  
  
 edit: Also reminds me of a wicked little experiment I might try this year and involve everyone in... I'd like to find something that can record in decent quality and swap different tubes through the T1, then allow people to download clips with different tubes and try and match the recordings to which tube they came from. If I ever do find something capable of recording in decent quality, I could try comparing dip settings on the headphone out... but that may be tough going headphone out -> recorder. (might mess the headphone amp up driving into the recorder)
  
 edit 2: this sounds much, much better. I'm hearing lots of details I never heard if many of the songs I listen to daily... little bits of guitar/piano/bass in the background of Stan Getz - Girl from Ipanema, as well as much more details in the vocals throughout the song... I think 0db has definitely improved the T1 for my headphones considerably.


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> Bringing this up since we're talking about the gain dips lately...
> 
> I always heard everyone who was asked on this thread recommend using the highest gain setting for higher impedance headphones (like the HD-650's, at 300 ohms nominal impedance), so I had my dips at +16db forever... recently I decided to put them back down to 0db just to see if it made a difference...
> 
> ...


 
  
 Yeah, the gain is 'dirty'. I kept it at 8 (or 10?) dB because at 0 it's a bit lacking for HE400. 
  
 For your idea, you could try plugging it to line-in of your onboard/sound card, and record it with audacity or something. I tried this once, but I think the ADC of the onboard is altering the sound a bit. It sounds a bit different.


----------



## GoroUnreal

Just got my T1 MK2 but found that the on/off switch broke after first usage (it's now loose and takes quite a while to get it to work). Just wondering if there is anything special with the on/off switch like needing to push it in when flicking it (noticed my on/off switch can be pushed in), or did I simply get a faulty switch. I'm awaiting a replacement and didn't want the same thing to occur if it was my fault.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

gorounreal said:


> Just got my T1 MK2 but found that the on/off switch broke after first usage (it's now loose and takes quite a while to get it to work). Just wondering if there is anything special with the on/off switch like needing to push it in when flicking it (noticed my on/off switch can be pushed in), or did I simply get a faulty switch. I'm awaiting a replacement and didn't want the same thing to occur if it was my fault.


 
  
 You are probably the first person I have heard of breaking the on and off switch.
  
 In other words it must have been a faulty switch.


----------



## mikoss

Actually someone posted 3 or so months ago with problems with their on/off switch on a new mk ii from mass drop as well... Crappy qa/qc from Aune these days! Sorry to hear about it.


----------



## GoroUnreal

ncsuzoso said:


> You are probably the first person I have heard of breaking the on and off switch.
> 
> In other words it must have been a faulty switch.


 
  
  


mikoss said:


> Actually someone posted 3 or so months ago with problems with their on/off switch on a new mk ii from mass drop as well... Crappy qa/qc from Aune these days! Sorry to hear about it.


 
  
 Thanks for the reply. At least it sounds like it was faulty and not me not knowing anything special about the switch. Hopefully the replacement is better.


----------



## benjitb

Hi, hope you can help, I'm new to Headphone amps & just have got an AKG K612 pro, I am just running it through my Yamaha rxv475 AV Reviever atm.
  
 Would the Aune T1 MK2 6922 be suitable for my setup, as a Headphone amp for running through the reciever & also through a laptop should i choose. Or is something else a better prospect, eg:http://epiphany-acoustics.co.uk/products-page/headphone-amplifiers/ehp-o2-portable-headphone-amplifier/


----------



## joeq70

Hey all, original poster here. I've been gone awhile, but I'm back. Glad to see many people have been enjoying the T1!
  
 A brief update: I've been enjoying the Genalex Gold Lion for a while now. I'll be looking to pair the T1 with a better amp sometime in the near future. I'll definitely post some impressions when I find a great match.


----------



## mikoss

benjitb said:


> Hi, hope you can help, I'm new to Headphone amps & just have got an AKG K612 pro, I am just running it through my Yamaha rxv475 AV Reviever atm.
> 
> Would the Aune T1 MK2 6922 be suitable for my setup, as a Headphone amp for running through the reciever & also through a laptop should i choose. Or is something else a better prospect, eg:http://epiphany-acoustics.co.uk/products-page/headphone-amplifiers/ehp-o2-portable-headphone-amplifier/


 
 Well, those are two different animals... The T1 has a tube-buffered DAC + headphone amp + RCA output, whereas the o2 you linked is a portable headphone amp.
  
 The T1 needs to be plugged into a wall socket, so it would work best on a desk, or with your existing receiver... the o2 portable headphone amp runs off batteries and (I suspect) wouldn't really "improve" the quality of your music, as the premise of the o2 amp is to simply amplify whatever is coming in, without colouring or adding distortion. It might improve it a bit, but it will depend on the source.
  
 Unless you plan on using the o2 portable with an iphone or some other portable media player, you'd probably get better use from the T1. Your laptop could play to the o2 portable, but you'd probably be looking to upgrade from your laptop's built in soundcard to a DAC eventually... (it may sound really good, but I'm not sure that you'd notice much of a difference simply using the o2 amp instead of your soundcard, or iphone). 
  
 Having said that, how do you find the AKGs? I have never heard the K612 Pro's before, but the K702's that I owned were very revealing... a bad source would sound bad. They also had fairly intense highs for my ears, which I found some tubes in the T1 could tame a bit. Are you pleased with the sound from your laptop->receiver->AKG's right now? Looking for any change in particular to the sound signature?
  
 I think they'd benefit from a good DAC, which you could use with your laptop and receiver. Not sure if tubes are the way to go... have you given any a listen before?


----------



## rovopio

i'd like to ask... does the different sound the tube rolls provide only works when aune t1 is used as usb dac+amp or say, if i get amperex 7308 and pair it with aune t1 line out as dac only, and plug it to my magni 2 uber, will i get the same amperex benefits?

im looking to sweeten the mids of my dt880 and just start researching between getting budget-fi tube amps (or in this case tube dac), or changing to a different headphone...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

benjitb said:


> Hi, hope you can help, I'm new to Headphone amps & just have got an AKG K612 pro, I am just running it through my Yamaha rxv475 AV Reviever atm.
> 
> Would the Aune T1 MK2 6922 be suitable for my setup, as a Headphone amp for running through the reciever & also through a laptop should i choose. Or is something else a better prospect, eg:http://epiphany-acoustics.co.uk/products-page/headphone-amplifiers/ehp-o2-portable-headphone-amplifier/


 

 My headphone PCB is currently damaged so I have to run it into my Yamaha receiver through line out.  You only lose the stock headphone amp inside the T1, you retain everything else (including the tube buffer).


----------



## Rozenberg

rovopio said:


> i'd like to ask... does the different sound the tube rolls provide only works when aune t1 is used as usb dac+amp or say, if i get amperex 7308 and pair it with aune t1 line out as dac only, and plug it to my magni 2 uber, will i get the same amperex benefits?
> 
> im looking to sweeten the mids of my dt880 and just start researching between getting budget-fi tube amps (or in this case tube dac), or changing to a different headphone...




I think you can do it. I've asked here before and someone told me he is using his T1 with Asgard 2 through RCA out.
I'm also going to buy Magni 2 Ūber btw


----------



## creatip

rovopio said:


> i'd like to ask... does the different sound the tube rolls provide only works when aune t1 is used as usb dac+amp or say, if i get amperex 7308 and pair it with aune t1 line out as dac only, and plug it to my magni 2 uber, will i get the same amperex benefits?
> 
> im looking to sweeten the mids of my dt880 and just start researching between getting budget-fi tube amps (or in this case tube dac), or changing to a different headphone...


 
  
 Short answer: yes.


----------



## rovopio

anybody pair aune t1 with dt880?

what kinds of improvements does aune t1 provides to the dt880?
(with the stock tube... i really dont have another $100 to shell for the amperex 7308  )


----------



## creatip

rovopio said:


> anybody pair aune t1 with dt880?
> 
> what kinds of improvements does aune t1 provides to the dt880?
> (with the stock tube... i really dont have another $100 to shell for the amperex 7308
> ...


 
  
 Don't think of it as 'improving'. 
  
 Most dac/amp only alter the sounds by coloring the sounds, making the headphone reproduce a slightly different frequency response. Just like real life colors (yellow, blue, red, etc), you might like it, then again you might not.


----------



## rovopio

creatip said:


> Don't think of it as 'improving'.
> 
> Most dac/amp only alter the sounds by coloring the sounds, making the headphone reproduce a slightly different frequency response. Just like real life colors (yellow, blue, red, etc), you might like it, then again you might not.



 


do you have dt880 by any chance? how does it colored the dt880?
will it make the midrange more forward or more musical?


----------



## creatip

rovopio said:


> creatip said:
> 
> 
> > Don't think of it as 'improving'.
> ...


 
  
 More forward? More musical? Wot?
  
 I don't have 880. I'm using T1 with HE400. Tube characteristic is usually leaning towards warmer side with less soundstage, with somewhat V curves. This gives a sense of richer, more intimate feels to vocals. If you're looking for soundstage and transparency (including flatter mid), it's better to go with solid state devices.


----------



## penmarker

I'm not sure if you'd like the DT880 with the Aune T1 since the amp portion is really bright. But my friend did message me this when I asked about his Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ88 tube.
  


> I can assure you that T1 bright amp can be balance with 6DJ88 tube. The warm sound of the tube will make your listening experience better with stock amp or seperate amp. Changing tube is cheap but will be very effective for T1. I'm not sure if you tried liquidgal Buggle Boy tube. If you read at head-fi, mostly will said 6DJ88 is better than Buggle Boy. But some will said vice versa and your mile may vary. Haven't tried Buggle Boy yet but what I'm trying to say is if you found that you like BB, you should like 6DJ88, depend on your sound preferences and genre.


----------



## rovopio

penmarker said:


> I'm not sure if you'd like the DT880 with the Aune T1 since the amp portion is really bright. But my friend did message me this when I asked about his Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ88 tube.


 
  
 im going to plug the aune t1 dac into schiit magni 2 uber..
  
 dt880 midrange is a little dry to my liking. well, maybe because i'm used to headphone that is on the north side of bright like the grado prestige series or shure 940.
 magni 2 uber paired with dt880 is a little too clinical and dry for me. of course after a while my brain adjust to the sound and it sounds normal and great.
  
 i think that dt880 will be a good fit to pair with a tube amp. or in this case, a tube dac.
 but other than that, i'd like to know how aune t1 will affect dt880 midrange when the aune t1 only uses the stock tube...
 i really don't have budget to spend on amperex 7308, or to tube-roll
  
 ebay is a no-go. No budget to spend and i don't want to deal with the hassle with customs...


----------



## feanorean

I really enjoy my DT880s with the Aune T1. I think they're a headphone that play well with tubes and benefit from the musical characteristics that tubes bring. A bit of a smoother and more emotive experience.
  
 I'm another advocate for the Amperex 7308. A worthy upgrade over the stock tube. But you certainly don't need it straight away. Get the T1 and then after a while you can roll in a 7308, sit back and smile


----------



## rovopio

feanorean said:


> I really enjoy my DT880s with the Aune T1. I think they're a headphone that play well with tubes and benefit from the musical characteristics that tubes bring. A bit of a smoother and more emotive experience.
> 
> I'm another advocate for the Amperex 7308. A worthy upgrade over the stock tube. But you certainly don't need it straight away. Get the T1 and then after a while you can roll in a 7308, sit back and smile


 
  
 how's the midrange on stock tubes vs. on amperex 7308?
  
 my first headphone was a grado sr60 and then sr80, shure 940, and also this relatively not popular headphone, ma-900. all of them are midrange-centric.
 i actually like analytical and / or bright presentation. i feel that my dt880 premium midrange sounds too _dry _to my liking.
 of course after a while my brain adjust to the sound... but there's a feeling that the dt880 midrange is too neutral for my taste.
  
 i'm actually in between getting a used hd600 or getting an aune t1. sadly since im in asia, sennheiser price is grossly inflated, so the used price is also grossly inflated. the used hd600 will cost me ~$290, while the new aune t1 is at $240.
 to be honest i don't really want to buy a 4 years old hd600 for $290, but i also know that headphone made 80-90% of the sound.
  
 1) So, solely based on the midrange, does _stock _aune t1 makes the dt880 midrange less dry or more full-bodied or more euphonic or (anything that cure the dryness really...)?
  
 2) now that you're using the amperex 7308... are you still on the look for sidegrade for dac/amp on the $300 level..?
 or are you satisfied with your aune t1 performance?
  
 i mean... upgrading to a higher priced and better amp (and dac) is one thing, but i'm looking for some sort of satisfaction level reference as in... if you're not looking for similarly-priced dac / amp, then that means the amperex 7308 is a good investment...
 i can shell out the $240 aune t1 asking price, but the amperex 7308 is a steep investment, and customs in developing country are a pain in the back...


----------



## joeq70

rovopio said:


> how's the midrange on stock tubes vs. on amperex 7308?
> 
> my first headphone was a grado sr60 and then sr80, shure 940, and also this relatively not popular headphone, ma-900. all of them are midrange-centric.
> i actually like analytical and / or bright presentation. i feel that my dt880 premium midrange sounds too _dry_ to my liking.
> ...



Hey there!

1) $290 is a great price of the HD-600. Awesome headphone.

2) Don't get the T1 unless you plan to buy tubes to try. Amperex 7308 is a good choice.

3) The T1 is a very nice sounding DAC with the right tube. But you need a separate amp to get the most out of it. The internal amp is OK but not anything special.


----------



## feanorean

I haven't heard the HD600 so I can't comment. I can comment on inflated prices as I live in Australia and with our dollar being so weak to the US buying audio gear online is much less appealling than 6-12 months ago. I'd really like a decent second hand HD650 but not for 300+ USD 
  
 I don't think that the T1 is somehow going to transform the Beyer sound in the sound you might get from the HD600 (from what I read). But as it seems you do like bright headphones the T1 might be just the trick to tone down the DT880s a little. The differences between stock tube and NOS are real, however they are often overstated, really the sound signature remains very similar with slight tweaking in some areas when rolling tubes.
  
 The choice between HD600 and T1 is a hard one I. Good luck.


----------



## feanorean

Agree with point


joeq70 said:


> Hey there!
> 
> 1) $290 is a great price of the HD-600. Awesome headphone.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Agree with point 3. Certainly a nice DAC but could be improved by linking it up to a seperate amp with good bass response.


----------



## mikoss

I am extremely happy with the T1 as my DAC. The one caveat of using it is no native support for 88.2kHz files, or above 24/96kHz. Also no native support for DSD files. (This forces you to either play what it supports, or use some other means like a DSP to force a resample rate, which I've found to be a bit annoying. I also find the DSP's I've been using change the sound and also cause clipping on some songs).

I really enjoy the sound of the T1 as my DAC and for the cost of a premium tube, it is a worthy contender of similar priced DACs. Without premium tubes, it also sounds good, but I also recommend the HD600s. So, I would recommend buying the HD-600's used from someone else, or even the HD-650's, neither of which I would ever classify as "bright" sounding... the mids on both headphones are superb and I think they will scale according to your gear as you upgrade. Price wise, the HD-650s are now selling for less than $300 new in the USA from authorized vendors on sale, so maybe you can find some for cheap. (link: http://www.head-fi.org/t/692119/the-deals-discussion-thread-read-the-first-post/11715#post_11233581 )

You also don't need an Amperex 7308 to hear nice mids... there are cheaper tubes that have nice mids, such as a cheaper Amperex Orange Globe.


----------



## rovopio

feanorean said:


> Agree with point
> 
> Agree with point 3. Certainly a nice DAC but could be improved by linking it up to a seperate amp with good bass response.


 
  
 i saw from your signature that you use the dt880?
 the only thing that i found lacking from the dt880 is the midrange is too neutral to my ear that it sounds too dry and clinical, does the warm tilt provided by aune t1 cured / alleviate / pair nicely with the dt880?
  
  


mikoss said:


> I am extremely happy with the T1 as my DAC. The one caveat of using it is no native support for 88.2kHz files, or above 24/96kHz. Also no native support for DSD files. (This forces you to either play what it supports, or use some other means like a DSP to force a resample rate, which I've found to be a bit annoying. I also find the DSP's I've been using change the sound and also cause clipping on some songs).
> 
> I really enjoy the sound of the T1 as my DAC and for the cost of a premium tube, it is a worthy contender of similar priced DACs. Without premium tubes, it also sounds good, but I also recommend the HD600s. So, I would recommend buying the HD-600's used from someone else, or even the HD-650's, neither of which I would ever classify as "bright" sounding... the mids on both headphones are superb and I think they will scale according to your gear as you upgrade. Price wise, the HD-650s are now selling for less than $300 new in the USA from authorized vendors on sale, so maybe you can find some for cheap. (link: http://www.head-fi.org/t/692119/the-deals-discussion-thread-read-the-first-post/11715#post_11233581 )
> 
> You also don't need an Amperex 7308 to hear nice mids... there are cheaper tubes that have nice mids, such as a cheaper Amperex Orange Globe.


 
  
 the import tax to south east asia is 40%, that plus the shipping cost +/- $50 will get the hd650 to be around ~$530 to my door. so that's not an option unfortunately. though it's still better than the local price at $600.
  


joeq70 said:


> Hey there!
> 
> 1) $290 is a great price of the HD-600. Awesome headphone.
> 
> ...


 

 Hi!
 The $290 is for a 4-years-old hd600. i think it's a little steep...


----------



## joeq70

rovopio said:


> i saw from your signature that you use the dt880?
> the only thing that i found lacking from the dt880 is the midrange is too neutral to my ear that it sounds too dry and clinical, does the warm tilt provided by aune t1 cured / alleviate / pair nicely with the dt880?
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Ohh you are saying it is used? Yeah...you should be able to snag it for like $220, that is steep.


----------



## feanorean

It really depends on how much of a problem you have with the DT880's mids. They are very linear and compared to my Grados (very mid forward) and ESW9A (very lush midrange) they certainly do sound dry. I found they lacked emotion through my ODAC/O2 but this improved with the T1. I'm not comfortable slinging too much audiophile jargon around so sorry if I seem to be dodging your questions.
  
  
 Yes it does seem to help and the DT880 do pair very well with the Aune T1.


----------



## penmarker

feanorean said:


> It really depends on how much of a problem you have with the DT880's mids. They are very linear and compared to my Grados (very mid forward) and ESW9A (very lush midrange) they certainly do sound dry. I found they lacked emotion through my ODAC/O2 but this improved with the T1. I'm not comfortable slinging too much audiophile jargon around so sorry if I seem to be dodging your questions.
> 
> 
> *Yes it does seem to help and the DT880 do pair very well with the Aune T1.*


 
 Ha, turns out its quite the opposite of what I thought it would be. I stand corrected.


----------



## mikoss

Oh god. I'm beginning to obsess over old 7308/e188cc's... Does anyone have any Amperex/Valvo/Philips tubes with d-style getters? I would be very interested in knowing the etched codes and your impressions of these tubes. Looking for impressions on VR0, VR1, 7L3, 7L4 tubes...


----------



## Chs177

mikoss said:


> Oh god. I'm beginning to obsess over old 7308/e188cc's... Does anyone have any Amperex/Valvo/Philips tubes with d-style getters? I would be very interested in knowing the etched codes and your impressions of these tubes. Looking for impressions on VR0, VR1, 7L3, 7L4 tubes...


 

 You should go throw Schiit Lyr 2 tube rolling thread. There are a lot of impressions about old tubes in that thread.
 I don't like Philips tubes at all (I have a pair of e88cc). Mullards are pretty good overall.
 Valvo are best for me - I have 7L1, 7L3. 7L1 is brilliant. Telefunken tubes are brilliant for classical music/jazz they have a holographic sound but if they faced with rock/metal its not so good in bass area. Valvo tubes are brilliant with rock/metal because of its bass.
 I don't have any tube with D-getter.
 I strongly suggest go to the separate headphone amplifier if you will go over old tubes with Aune T1.
 PM me if you will have any further questions.


----------



## WaiseCoo

Has anyone ever replaced the soldered op-amp inside to a discrete one? I think Burson and Dexa are the biggest discrete op-amp manufactures, I once changed my Zero Dac op-amps to discrete one's and it made a huge difference. Any doubt's, is the op-amp soldered for a reason?
  
 Demonstrative picture:


----------



## zaxdad

Hi all.
 I just purchased a used t1 from a seller on Amazon. Is there any way to distinguish an original from a mk2?
 Thanks for any info,
  
 Howard


----------



## Rozenberg

zaxdad said:


> Hi all.
> I just purchased a used t1 from a seller on Amazon. Is there any way to distinguish a original from a mk2?
> Thanks for any info,
> 
> Howard


 
  
 Mine has the "T1 MK2 TUBE USB DAC" in the front


----------



## mikoss

jw @Rozenberg does it support files over 24/96 natively? Also, does it do 88.2?


----------



## Rozenberg

mikoss said:


> jw @Rozenberg does it support files over 24/96 natively? Also, does it do 88.2?


 
  
 I hope I could answer this with more experience, but looking from what I got in Windows 7, mine is only maxed at 16 bit 96 kHz while on 8.1 laptop, it has up to 32 bit.
 I rarely listen to 24 bit files but decided to check it out just in case, and it's missing 24 bit option on both so I guess it doesn't support it.


----------



## santacruise

Hello,
 I can't get WASAPI(push and event) to work on my T1. Error:"Unrecoverable playback error: Exclusive mode not allowed" (foobar). Anyone knows why?
 Thanks


----------



## djdakine

rozenberg said:


> Mine has the "T1 MK2 TUBE USB DAC" in the front


 
  
 THANKS!  I've been using my ears and not my eyes to review this thing. I got one from Amazon Warehouse and thought I got a deal.  Looking at the box, it has a barcode sticker covering the original label they used which only says Aune T1 upgradec version - nothing stating MK2 on that label or my box.
  
 If I didn't see this post, I wouldn't have even looked for MK2 on the front.  Caught just in time to make it for the MK2 massdrop (which comes with a free Gold Lion tube-that i'm assuming is the E88CC that a lot have reviewed).


----------



## zaxdad

I bought a used T1 from a third party seller on Amazon. They said it was a mk 2. It's not. Hopefully don't have any issues returning it. I notice it does have a fairly high noise floor. Is that normal?  It has the Electro Harmonix 6922 installed.Have the gain switches at 0.
 Thanks for any info.
  
 Howard


----------



## mikoss

Guess the noise floor might depend on which tube you're using. In general, I'm pretty sure solid state gear has higher specs. I don't honestly think there is much difference at all between mk1 and mk2, but it is nice to get what you thought you were buying


----------



## mikoss

Also, just wondering, but I take it by noise floor you mean that you can hear a hum/background noise? You really shouldn't hear any feedback/humming/whatever. If you do, it may be the tube, or interference from electronics close by... I notice my cellphone will create noise if it's in close proximity and I'm receiving a text. Also, USB can be the cause of noise too. Hope your mk2 has a nice black background...


----------



## zaxdad

Yes. What I would consider a significant amount of hum. Using usb. No other devices around. I have a severe case of tinnitus. I use headphones a good portion of the time for sound therapy. I listen to music at low volume to break up the monotony of the therapy. Figured I might as well make it a hobby.


----------



## mikoss

Ahh cool. I find tubes to be very nice compared to some of the crisp, fatiguing sounding solid state gear I've used before. I do find the EH tube to have highs which are a bit unrefined to my ears, but I'm probably just quibbling. They still sound good. 

As for the hum, sounds like you got a bunk T1, glad you're returning it.


----------



## penmarker

T1 shouldn't be humming. So I guess there's something wrong with the unit. Also since the seller listed as a MK2 but sold you a MK1, it must be a case of a dishonest owner wanting to rid the faulty unit. Make sure you get a refund and get yourself a new unit if you can. It's worth every cent.
  
 Depending on your headphone's/earphone's sensitivity, the Aune T1 with stock 6922 tube is very silent (low noise floor). Only my sensitive earphone will have a little bit of hissing on very loud volumes with no music playing. Different tubes will have different noise floors, but it shouldn't bother too much since music will definitely drown the hissing out.
  
 Very best.


----------



## djdakine

zaxdad said:


> I bought a used T1 from a third party seller on Amazon. They said it was a mk 2. It's not. Hopefully don't have any issues returning it. I notice it does have a fairly high noise floor. Is that normal?  It has the Electro Harmonix 6922 installed.Have the gain switches at 0.
> Thanks for any info.
> 
> Howard


 
 massdrop has the MK2 for 169.99 + a bonus gold lion tube. Don't bother looking for one in the amazon warehouse. I'm returning mine, that is an MK1. They'll probably just try to resell it as an MK2 again.   Only problem is an est ship date of feb 18


----------



## Norsquall

Hi,
  
 I was just wondering how you were able to tell the MK1 and the M2 apart.
  
 I just put in an order for the Mk2 on ebay, and I just wanted to confirm whether I receive a legitimate mk2 or not
  
 So far, opening up the case and examining the internals appears to be one method of distinguishing the two


----------



## joeq70

djdakine said:


> massdrop has the MK2 for 169.99 + a bonus gold lion tube. Don't bother looking for one in the amazon warehouse. I'm returning mine, that is an MK1. They'll probably just try to resell it as an MK2 again.   Only problem is an est ship date of feb 18


 
 Awesome deal. I find myself sticking with the Genalex Gold Lion after all this time. But I do have a Miniwatt Dario E188CC (Holland) on the way. We'll see which one likes my Magnums the best.
  
 On another note, I have come to realize that if you pair a separate amplifier up with the Aune T1, it can have a SIGNIFICANT impact on the sound, which can be a good thing or a bad thing. For instance, I paired the T1 up with a Sennheiser HDVD800 amp recently and the sound was absolutely wild with the Genalex Gold Lion. It was placing the sound "in my head." The soundstage was bizarrely both expansive and suffocating. It wasn't good or bad, just strange and a bit impressive. I swapped the Genalex out for the 6n23p Rocket Logo and things became more "normal." There are just so many tubes and so many amps, it could really take a long time to find the best setup. And that tube you bought that sounded MEH when you first fired it up in the T1? With the right amp, who knows how great it might be? But for those of you out there who have the T1 only and want to keep tweaking the sound over time...after you've found a tube or two that you like, try out some different amplifiers with the T1--you might be pretty surprised at the results. That's not to say that the T1 amp is horrible, it's just that the entire character of the sound can be different with a different amp.


----------



## SirMarc

I've found the t1, amperex 7308 and Asgard 2 to be a stellar combo with my sennheiser hd580's...


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> I've found the t1, amperex 7308 and Asgard 2 to be a stellar combo with my sennheiser hd580's...


 
 Cool! Could you describe the change in sound when switching from the integrated T1 amp to the Asgard 2? In comparison to the HDVD800 amp, I found the T1 amp to be "warmer," less detailed, having a more narrow soundstage. Interestingly, I liked the T1 amp more than the HDVD800 when feeding the Sennheiser HD600. I found the HDVD800 to makes highs "sizzle" a bit too much when paired with the HD600 headphones.


----------



## SirMarc

I found the t1 amp thin sounding. The Asgard 2 gave more body to the sound. It also opened up the soundstage. A good test is, if you have porcupine tree lightbulb sun, listen to the end of hate song and compare the sound of the floor tom in the right channel between amps. You'll see what I mean...


----------



## SirMarc

Also, if you have that album, listen to the end of Russia on ice. The first time I heard that song with the Asgard I was like holy crap! I didn't know the 580's bass could hit that hard and low.


----------



## Gartner

I only use the dac section of the t1 and want to upgrade to a higher end dac. Any suggestions?


----------



## penmarker

gartner said:


> I only use the dac section of the t1 and want to upgrade to a higher end dac. Any suggestions?


 
 Any budget limits?


----------



## Gartner

1000, may stretch budget to $2000. Not sure. Just want a real upgrade that keep me satisfied for a long period.


----------



## penmarker

Have you considered Chord Hugo?


----------



## mikoss

I think the chord hugo is very expensive myself... I haven't heard it, but I have read that the audio-gd master 7 sounds better. Both of those DACs are very expensive, I would think a Schiit Gungir would be a more modestly priced, very good DAC. 

Here is some reading from some people who reviewed a bunch of mostly very expensive DACs: http://www.head-fi.org/t/693798/thoughts-on-a-bunch-of-dacs-and-why-i-hate-chocolate-ice-cream

If you're using just the DAC in the T1, you could get a boost by buying a premium tube. It all depends on what you listen with and what you prefer for presentation, but an e188cc or cca goes a hell of a long way. Amperex Holland, Amperex USA, Siemens grey plates, Telefunkens... These are all superb tubes. All expensive as well, but personally I have zero ambition to "upgrade" my T1... I prefer the sound of the tubes with it. I also strongly believe you'd get better mileage out of $1000-2000 buying an upgraded headphone amp.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Guys I need some opinions on discrete amps to combine with the Aune T1.
  
 I am looking at three things right now, one because an insanely low price, but I wonder about the quality.
  
 1) $25 Little Bear P2 (New)
 2) ~$100 Schiit Magni 2
 3) ~$120 Schiit Vali
  
  
 Opinions?  Is there something between those that is better I should go with?  Also if you think the Schiit options are the best, what do yall think about the Vali (subminiature tubes) vs. the pure SS Magni 2?
  
 I also wouldn't mind making my own either from a kit or from a design that has been shared.  Interested to hear what those who have played around with dedicated amps have to say on this.
  
 I am trying to stay as close to $100-$125 as I can, but if there is something much better for $150, I'd take a look.


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> Guys I need some opinions on discrete amps to combine with the Aune T1.
> 
> I am looking at three things right now, one because an insanely low price, but I wonder about the quality.
> 
> ...


 
 I don't know about the Little Bear, but you would be best served searching the forums for the differences between the Vali and Magni 2. In my experience, the amp you choose will definitely have an impact on the sound but whether the change is good or bad will depend on your headphones and your personal taste. I recall someone posted on here in another threat that the Vali wasn't any better than the amp inside the T1, but I need to go try to find that post again. I'll edit this and post the link if I find it. I don't know much about the Little Bear like I said, but it is kinda hard to imagine an amp for $25 being better than the amp in the T1. 
  
 Edit: I must have been mistaken about the Vali (maybe it was the Magni where someone said they couldnt tell adifference between it and the T1 amp?). Anyway, here is a thread of people who seem to be really happy pairing the T1 up with the Vali.
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/723899/schiit-vali-vs-aune-t1


----------



## NCSUZoSo

The amp board in the T1 cost $8 to get a replacement.  Mine shorted out when I was screwing around, so I doubt it is hard to beat


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> The amp board in the T1 cost $8 to get a replacement.  Mine shorted out when I was screwing around, so I doubt it is hard to beat


 
 Haha, no I don't doubt it! I guess I take that back. My experience is that most amps in the lower price range are pretty much different flavors of the same thing.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Knowing so much about the T1 and reading that thread just frustrates me haha.  People not knowing how the tube is involved and talking about the stock EH tube sounding better than an Amperex 7308.  Haha, I just stopped reading there.
  
 I appreciate the info and the seller of the Little Bear P2 told me he didn't think it would pair well with my setup (he has much better equipment and was given it as a gift) without a pre-amp.
  
 Right now I am using my Yamaha RX-V863 to power the headphones which is doing a fine job, but if I want to take the T1 with me somewhere, well, that presents a problem.. haha
  
 I really think finding the original Schiit Magni for a good price may be my best bet, but I am definitely open to any suggestions.
  
 I am definitely interested in some DIY amps, any suggestions in that price range? ~$100


----------



## mikoss

$79 is a good price, no?
 http://schiit.com/products/magni
  
 Hmm, a good $100 amp... http://www.head-fi.org/t/596482/the-sub-100-portable-amps-shootout-11-1-amps-compared
  
 I'd go with the Schiit myself, over say a FiiO or something.
  
 What are you looking to improve from the T1 soundwise?


----------



## Hansotek

New experiment in the works! I found sweet prices on a Burson HA-160 and a 1962 Dario Miniwatt 188cc. Now just waiting on them to arrive in the mail. We're going to see how far the old T1 can scale up. Hoping the tube DAC and the extra warm Dario will yield a "best of both worlds" sound with the solid state Burson.


----------



## joeq70

hansotek said:


> New experiment in the works! I found sweet prices on a Burson HA-160 and a 1962 Dario Miniwatt 188cc. Now just waiting on them to arrive in the mail. We're going to see how far the old T1 can scale up. Hoping the tube DAC and the extra warm Dario will yield a "best of both worlds" sound with the solid state Burson.



Hey I'm in the same boat! Miniwatt Dario E188CC is in the mail to me from Italy. I'm really pleased with the Genalex Gold Lion these days, but I'm curious what this super high end tube will do with my Magnums.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> $79 is a good price, no?
> http://schiit.com/products/magni
> 
> 
> ....What are you looking to improve from the T1 soundwise?


 
  
 Well shipping runs $15 for the absolute cheapest from CA to NC, so it's $95 in reality.
  
 Right now I am talking with Coil and we both said Garage1217 amps (http://www.garage1217.com/garage1217_diy_tube_headphone_amplifiers_005.htm)
  
 The Starlight looks like a great value and I am looking to add everything my Yamaha Receiver added once I blew out the amp PCB in the unit (best thing I ever did).  If I had known the amp was that weak I would have stopped playing around with $90 tubes and bought me a dedicated amp a long time ago.  That internal amp lacks so much it's hard to know where to begin.  The easiest way to explain it is it lacks body and depth, both on the high and the low (especially the low end, badly) ends.  But I am impressed what it delivers for $8, that price is quoting Aune (without SH) own replacement costs for the board.  I am really surprised there are a lot of people who have upgraded to a smal
  
 Right now in terms of tubes I have my main tube a Siemens 6922 German (possible CCa), GE Smokie ECC88 (pair), Tesla ECC88, West German RCA/Amperex 6922 and a JAN Philips 6922.  With that much in tubes I could have purchased a very nice dedicated amp (~$260), hell my main tube (Siemens) cost $85 by itself, but is easily the best tube I have ever heard in the T1 and I've had and sold Amperex tubes.


----------



## Hansotek

joeq70 said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > New experiment in the works! I found sweet prices on a Burson HA-160 and a 1962 Dario Miniwatt 188cc. Now just waiting on them to arrive in the mail. We're going to see how far the old T1 can scale up. Hoping the tube DAC and the extra warm Dario will yield a "best of both worlds" sound with the solid state Burson.
> ...



Nice! I've heard some lofty praise for these tubes. Looking forward to comparing impressions.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

What headphones are you guys using that are praising the Genalex Gold Lions?  I've used one in my T1 at a local swap because I heard users saying they liked it more than NOS like GE Smokies and it didn't even come close to what my Siemens 6922 offers through my SoundMAGIC HP150/100s.  I am just curious if headphones do play that big of a role in tube preference.


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> What headphones are you guys using that are praising the Genalex Gold Lions?  I've used one in my T1 at a local swap because I heard users saying they liked it more than NOS like GE Smokies and it didn't even come close to what my Siemens 6922 offers through my SoundMAGIC HP150/100s.  I am just curious if headphones do play that big of a role in tube preference.



I use a Magnum X, which is basically a more detailed, punchier Grado. Definitely a specific sound I'm getting out of those.


----------



## SirMarc

ncsuzoso said:


> What headphones are you guys using that are praising the Genalex Gold Lions?  I've used one in my T1 at a local swap because I heard users saying they liked it more than NOS like GE Smokies and it didn't even come close to what my Siemens 6922 offers through my SoundMAGIC HP150/100s.  I am just curious if headphones do play that big of a role in tube preference.


I have an Asgard 2 and a vintage dynaco integrated amp I use with sennheiser hd580's. The dynaco is very warm sounding and the Asgard 2 is, I would say mildly warm. I use the dynaco primarily for my turntable and the Asgard 2 with the t1. Background out of the way, I find the I like the gold lion better with the dynaco, and an amperex 7308 better with the Asgard 2. The amperex is very warm sounding(in a good way) and sounds fantastic with the Asgard, but too warm with an already warm amp. The gold lion is a bit solid state sounding to me, so a good match for an overly warm system


----------



## Hansotek

Part one of the Burson/Aune/Dario experiment is in - the Burson HA-160 arrived today. Good God, this thing lays every other amp I've heard to waste, including my Lyr and precious Telefunken tubes. It has all the warmth and romanticism of a tube amp with all the punch and exacting technicality of a solid state. It honestly doesn't need a tube, but I'm going to ride this experiment out. Worst case, I keep the T1 hooked up to my monitors with a new tube to roll.


----------



## joeq70

hansotek said:


> Part one of the Burson/Aune/Dario experiment is in - the Burson HA-160 arrived today. Good God, this thing lays every other amp I've heard to waste, including my Lyr and precious Telefunken tubes. It has all the warmth and romanticism of a tube amp with all the punch and exacting technicality of a solid state. It honestly doesn't need a tube, but I'm going to ride this experiment out. Worst case, I keep the T1 hooked up to my monitors with a new tube to roll.


 
 Good to hear! I've read some great things about that amp. It's a bit out of my price range at the moment, but I'll definitely make note of your further impressions for when I'm ready to upgrade.


----------



## mikoss

hansotek said:


> Part one of the Burson/Aune/Dario experiment is in - the Burson HA-160 arrived today. Good God, this thing lays every other amp I've heard to waste, including my Lyr and precious Telefunken tubes. It has all the warmth and romanticism of a tube amp with all the punch and exacting technicality of a solid state. It honestly doesn't need a tube, but I'm going to ride this experiment out. Worst case, I keep the T1 hooked up to my monitors with a new tube to roll.


 
 hmmmm I'm interested. Better than Telefunkens eh? I have actually yet to hear any Telefunkens period... with the ecc88's going "cheap" for $60 used, and the e188cc's going "cheap" for $225/tube, I've stuck to Amperex and Philips tubes for my listening enjoyment.
  
 Interested in hearing your impressions


----------



## Hansotek

joeq70 said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > Part one of the Burson/Aune/Dario experiment is in - the Burson HA-160 arrived today. Good God, this thing lays every other amp I've heard to waste, including my Lyr and precious Telefunken tubes. It has all the warmth and romanticism of a tube amp with all the punch and exacting technicality of a solid state. It honestly doesn't need a tube, but I'm going to ride this experiment out. Worst case, I keep the T1 hooked up to my monitors with a new tube to roll.
> ...



It was out of my price range too. I just got super lucky and won an auction for one on ebay for $320. I really didn't think I was actually going to win it.


----------



## walfredo

So, I keep in love with my Aune T1 + Philips PCC85.   I tried to best with Geek Pulse, Peachtree Nova, ifi Nano, Matrix mini and other DACs, but it remains my favorite.
  
 Curiosity:  What DAC chip is used on this?  Does anyone know?
  
 Thanks,
 Walfredo


----------



## Hansotek

mikoss said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > Part one of the Burson/Aune/Dario experiment is in - the Burson HA-160 arrived today. Good God, this thing lays every other amp I've heard to waste, including my Lyr and precious Telefunken tubes. It has all the warmth and romanticism of a tube amp with all the punch and exacting technicality of a solid state. It honestly doesn't need a tube, but I'm going to ride this experiment out. Worst case, I keep the T1 hooked up to my monitors with a new tube to roll.
> ...



Telefunkens are pretty sweet. I've only ever used them in the Lyr. I'd say they are neutral with a slightly warm tilt. Imaging is very precise. Overall soundstage is medium to very good. Sound is very organic and analog. Bass extention is ultra deep. Good impact, but not the best. Mids are very sweet and emotional. Great female vocals may induce man-sobbing. Highs a generally a little relaxed, but only enough to be comfortable. Not at all veiled. If I want to be pickey, the soundstage does exibit occasional oddities, but this may be a byproduct of Lyr or custom damping mods... I doubt it is the tube, but the organic nature of the tube does make such things a bit more obvious, I think. Not the most consistent sound. Again, that might be the amp or it might be my ears. They tend to sound best after they have been warmed up for a few hours. They take a while to burn in. They are definitely in another league above my Amperex 7308. 

I'll post Dario impressions once it finally arrives.


----------



## Hansotek

walfredo said:


> So, I keep in love with my Aune T1 + Philips PCC85.   I tried to best with Geek Pulse, Peachtree Nova, ifi Nano, Matrix mini and other DACs, but it remains my favorite.
> 
> Curiosity:  What DAC chip is used on this?  Does anyone know?
> 
> ...



I believe it is a Burr-Brown PCM1793.


----------



## mikoss

hansotek said:


> Telefunkens are pretty sweet. I've only ever used them in the Lyr. I'd say they are neutral with a slightly warm tilt. Imaging is very precise. Overall soundstage is medium to very good. Sound is very organic and analog. Bass extention is ultra deep. Good impact, but not the best. Mids are very sweet and emotional. Great female vocals may induce man-sobbing. Highs a generally a little relaxed, but only enough to be comfortable. Not at all veiled. If I want to be pickey, the soundstage does exibit occasional oddities, but this may be a byproduct of Lyr or custom damping mods... I doubt it is the tube, but the organic nature of the tube does make such things a bit more obvious, I think. Not the most consistent sound. Again, that might be the amp or it might be my ears. They tend to sound best after they have been warmed up for a few hours. They take a while to burn in. They are definitely in another league above my Amperex 7308.
> 
> I'll post Dario impressions once it finally arrives.


 
 Thanks for the impressions. This sounds in line with the general consensus that I'd read about these tubes... very organic sounding, yet also very neutral. I'm having a tough time trying to understand how that would sound compared to the Miniwatt sound that I love. The Miniwatt's have the deep, tight bass of the Siemens tubes, beautiful Amperex mids, and extended highs as well. I've found they can be very 3d/holographic sounding tubes, and also very detailed sounding at the same time. I think there's a slight emphasis on the higher end (perhaps)... 
  
 Anyway, I've ordered a bunch of different tubes in the last while and I'll post impressions later. D-getter Amperex E88CC, 60's and 70's US-made 7308s, and some more Miniwatts. My absolute favourite is still the Phillips VR3 Holland tubes... hoping that will change 
  
 edit: looking forward to hearing about the Dario as well. Is it from Heerlen, or another factory? I also found some A-frame E188CC Valvo made tubes with Hamburg codes... they should be interesting to hear. I didn't even know Valvo made tubes... apparently I guess Valvo = Philips for Germany, so I guess they are technically Philips made tubes. Really interested in hearing how they compare to the Heerlen tubes. From my experience, the "Germany" stamped Amperex tubes had really shrill/unrefined highs that sounded terrible to me. I'm hoping the Hamburg factory didn't make the 6dj8's I had that sounded that way.


----------



## Kaztronic

Hi there,
  
 I'm Scott, and I am new to all of this equipment, and admittedly a bit lost (although excited about where I will likely end up once I get this all figured out).
  
 So, I bought my first piece of equipment in search of seeing just how good music can sound. Specifically, I picked up the Aune T1 MkII and it arrived today. Like a kid, I just had to play with this new equipment right away and am concerned that the unit I received is defective somehow. I'll do my best to explain the issues I've noticed.
  
 I know that the unit requires about 50 hours of running time before it will sound like it should, and assume that is why it generally sounds a bit muddy out of the box (especially in the middle frequencies - I really hope I'm not making a fool of myself trying to explain this, haha). On the positive side, I've already listened to several tracks and have heard things in these songs that I never knew existed in the background. To say that I am intrigued & excited about the possibilities of this unit would be an understatement. The reason I am concerned that the unit I have is defective somehow has to do with the gain settings. As others have mentioned, the unit arrived with everything switched to the ON setting. I switched everything off as a starting point and was shocked at how awful the thing sounded. So, it was on to fiddling. This is what I've found:
  
 If I move both "1" switches to on, the vocals almost completely disappear.
  
 If I only move the "1" switch closest to the end with the headphone jack, the vocals come back and the unit sounds much better (although the vocals still do not match the sound I previously got by going through the headphone jack in the computer itself).
  
 If I switch on both "2" switches, it gets a bit louder, and neither improves, nor detracts from the music much. I currently have these off as the sound seems slightly better with them off vocally.
  
 The only other observations I've made are that it sounds best with the Foobar2000 music player (which I read about here) and I only need turn the volume 1/4 of the way up to get a volume which I enjoy (vocals seem almost normal with this player). When I use my VLC or Windows Media Player to watch a concert DVD (or any other video) I need to turn the volume up to the 12 o'clock position to get the same volume.
  
 I don't know if computer hardware is important, but what I am working with is a Windows 7 PC. I initially had a very digitized sound coming out of the unit, but reading up on the USB connections, I was able to adjust the settings and made sure to get it in to a solo slot and that problem went away.
  
 So, any thoughts? Is there something wrong with my unit, or is this normal?
  
 Once I get this figured out, it's on to headphone recommendations. I was thinking of the Mad Dog Pro, anyone know how well those pair with the Aune?


----------



## Koolpep

kaztronic said:


> Hi there,
> 
> I'm Scott, and I am new to all of this equipment, and admittedly a bit lost (although excited about where I will likely end up once I get this all figured out).
> 
> ...


 

 The gain switch is per channel. Each DIP switch box is for left or right.
  
 So I just tried it on mine and no, vocals do not disappear, it purely affects the volume/gain comping out of your headphones. Check your headphone connectors. But it is important that both switches are in the same position. So either all off, both 1 on 2off or both on.
  
 If music sounds in any way distorted, or as you said: digitized. Something is weird. Do you have another PC you can try it on?
  
 Since the T1 is a pretty powerful amp leaving them on zero gain is in my opinion the best idea. Which headphones are you using with the T1? If you don't have any high impedance headphones, no gain is needed.
  
 Cheers,
 K


----------



## Kaztronic

Well, interestingly enough, I was using Klipsch Image One headphones and was having a great deal of difficulty with the vocals.
  
 For the hell of it, I pulled out my ancient Koss Pro4AA Titanium headphones which I have never liked the sound of, and popped them in. With no gain, they sounded very good, although I had to crank the volume quite a bit to get them to really sing. I then tried all of the gain switches and Whammo! The vocals are perfect, and the sound is beyond what I ever expected - especially with these headphones as they just never sounded very good with any equipment I had ever tried them on (I suspect it was an issue of power with these Koss cans). To my amazement, these old headphones which I've always looked at rather scornfully as money wasted suddenly sound quite good!
  
 So, perhaps it's an issue with those Klipsch headphones......
  
 I've also done more reading, and realize that I was also testing this with very vocal heavy music (Joe Cocker). A quick switch to old house music from my club days and yeah, the sound is spectacular even without burn-in of the tube.


----------



## Kaztronic

Oh, and thanks for the reply 
  
 I am so relieved that there is nothing wrong with the Aune, and that it appears to have been an issue with the headphones. With the Koss, I've settled on 10db of gain and they are sounding pretty fantastic. Considering these aren't very highly regarded cans, I can only imagine what the T1 can do with a good set of headphones.
  
 I'm thinking about the Mad Dog Pro headphones, and also picking up a Amperex orange globe 6DJ8/ECC88 tube to bring out the vocals on my Joe Cocker albums (which I listen to way too frequently!).
  
 This equipment is going to turn in to an obsession I think.....


----------



## penmarker

kaztronic said:


> Oh, and thanks for the reply
> 
> I am so relieved that there is nothing wrong with the Aune, and that it appears to have been an issue with the headphones. With the Koss, I've settled on 10db of gain and they are sounding pretty fantastic. Considering these aren't very highly regarded cans, I can only imagine what the T1 can do with a good set of headphones.
> 
> ...


 
 Hi! As you've known now, yes there's nothing wrong with your Aune T1 unit. The problem is in the TRRS connector your Klipsch has, it doesn't play well with TRS equipments (like the amp and the mini to quarter inch converter). TRRS and TRS refers to the type of jack your headphone has. Headsets with a mic require an extra connector on the jack for the mic, so it doesn't align well with some equipments that doesn't have an extra connector.
  
 If you notice, there's only 2 insulating bands on your Koss, but there are 3 on your Klipsch. If you want to use the Klipsch, you'll need to press and hold the answer button to complete the circuit for the vocals to appear again. I'm not sure what's the issue here, probably grounding?


----------



## Chs177

joeq70 said:


> Good to hear! I've read some great things about that amp. It's a bit out of my price range at the moment, but I'll definitely make note of your further impressions for when I'm ready to upgrade.


 
 Joe,
  
 may be you don't need an upgrade bacause you already have an upgrade..
 Check that thread please http://www.head-fi.org/t/629352/he-500-lcd2-d5000-dt770-sr80-on-a-speaker-amp-emotiva-mini-x-a-100-project.
  
 It's really great improvement but you will need some cables/resistors to connect headphones.


----------



## Hansotek

mikoss said:


> Thanks for the impressions. This sounds in line with the general consensus that I'd read about these tubes... very organic sounding, yet also very neutral. I'm having a tough time trying to understand how that would sound compared to the Miniwatt sound that I love. The Miniwatt's have the deep, tight bass of the Siemens tubes, beautiful Amperex mids, and extended highs as well. I've found they can be very 3d/holographic sounding tubes, and also very detailed sounding at the same time. I think there's a slight emphasis on the higher end (perhaps)...
> 
> Anyway, I've ordered a bunch of different tubes in the last while and I'll post impressions later. D-getter Amperex E88CC, 60's and 70's US-made 7308s, and some more Miniwatts. My absolute favourite is still the Phillips VR3 Holland tubes... hoping that will change
> 
> edit: looking forward to hearing about the Dario as well. Is it from Heerlen, or another factory? I also found some A-frame E188CC Valvo made tubes with Hamburg codes... they should be interesting to hear. I didn't even know Valvo made tubes... apparently I guess Valvo = Philips for Germany, so I guess they are technically Philips made tubes. Really interested in hearing how they compare to the Heerlen tubes. From my experience, the "Germany" stamped Amperex tubes had really shrill/unrefined highs that sounded terrible to me. I'm hoping the Hamburg factory didn't make the 6dj8's I had that sounded that way.



The Dario is from Harleen 1962. I was looking for that year and origin, specifically. I will absolutely post impressions. Hopefully shipping doesn't take too long...


----------



## mikoss

hansotek said:


> The Dario is from Harleen 1962. I was looking for that year and origin, specifically. I will absolutely post impressions. Hopefully shipping doesn't take too long...


 
 Any idea which VR batch? Does it have a week code printed at the top as well? Cool.


----------



## Hansotek

mikoss said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > The Dario is from Harleen 1962. I was looking for that year and origin, specifically. I will absolutely post impressions. Hopefully shipping doesn't take too long...
> ...



Yup. VR5, Delta2G2


----------



## joeq70

chs177 said:


> Joe,
> 
> may be you don't need an upgrade bacause you already have an upgrade..
> Check that thread please http://www.head-fi.org/t/629352/he-500-lcd2-d5000-dt770-sr80-on-a-speaker-amp-emotiva-mini-x-a-100-project.
> ...


 
 Thanks for the advice. I'm actually set on getting a Digizoid ZO FS as my next amp. It doesn't get a lot of attention because it doesn't seem hi-fi but...I believe that is a misconception.


----------



## Chs177

joeq70 said:


> Thanks for the advice. I'm actually set on getting a Digizoid ZO FS as my next amp. It doesn't get a lot of attention because it doesn't seem hi-fi but...I believe that is a misconception.


 

 Good luck!
 It always nervous - how will sound new amp with your DAC and headphones.
 I hope you will enjoy your next amp.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I ended up deciding on an amplifier to pair with the Aune T1.  I found a good deal on a Schiit Magni 2 and bought it.  This Magni 2 is obviously still under warranty considering it has a 5 year warranty and the Magni 2 only released roughly 2 months ago (I also have 14 days to return).  I'm excited to see how it pairs with my modded Aune T1 and SoundMAGIC HP150s that I just got new pads for.
  
 I'll let you guys know how the Schiit Magni 2 does with my combo since it is one of the most popular SS amplifiers below $100 (before SH) and retains the same semi-portability the T1 has.


----------



## Charliemotta

Was wondering why you didn't go with the Magni 2 Uber?


----------



## Rozenberg

I ended up pairing my Aune with Matrix M-Stage. It's great.

Now thinking to replace my stock 6922EH.
Genalex Gold Lion or Mullard ECC88?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

charliemotta said:


> Was wondering why you didn't go with the Magni 2 Uber?


 
  
 Because I found the Magni 2 barely used for $80 shipped and the Uber is over double that cost shipped.  If I get the Magni 2 and I am not impressed then the uber will add nothing for purely driving HP150s.
  
 Also I have no need for pre-amp outputs or more power than the Magni 2.  If I want to power speakers I'll send the signal to my Yamaha RX-V863 from the Aune T1 directly (like I am now), but I have a modded ZXR with upgraded Op-Amps going into Multi-Channel inputs on my RX-V863 (see my avatar), so I never bother using anything else to drive my speakers.  With my mylar cap DC mod and ADA op-amps, I couldn't be more impressed with my ZXR than I am right now.  I have roughly $400 in that sound card, more than my GTX 970, haha.
  
 My headphones are not hard to drive, they are 32 Ohm SoundMAGIC HP150s (95dB/mW@1 KHz)
  
 The only benefits of the Uber are: 1) Pre-Amp Outputs 2) More Power 3) Aluminum Chassis Top
  
 From their post on Head-Fi:
  
  
 "*Magni 2.* All-new discrete headphone amp with 1.2W RMS per channel (32 ohms) and switchable high/low gain, together with a refined constant-feedback gain stage. $99. "
  
*"Magni 2 Uber.* All-new discrete headphone amp with 1.5W RMS per channel (32 ohms), switchable high/low gain, preamp outputs, and even more sophisticated constant-feedback gain stage. Also includes new 24VA wall transformer (3x larger than Magni) and aluminum top chassis and knob. $149."
  
 --------------------------------------------
  
 1.2W RMS will be enough to deafen me and unless I really wanted an Aluminum top chassis!! I don't see the reason to spend over double what I paid for a 2 week old Magni 2 (shipping is $15, so the Uber costs $164.99 shipped).  Or do you think an "even more sophisticated constant-feedback gain stage" is worth $85 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
 I was wrong about one thing, the Warranty is 2 years, not 5 years like it says at the bottom of the site.  Oh and try to find a picture of the Magni 2 Uber PCB anywhere, so far I can't even find it and I am pretty sure that $50 is spent on the Pre-Amp/Chassis/24VA transformer.  I have modded guitar amps many times in my life and "even more sophisticated" is probably a $5 improvement in parts.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

rozenberg said:


> I ended up pairing my Aune with Matrix M-Stage. It's great.
> 
> Now thinking to replace my stock 6922EH.
> Genalex Gold Lion or Mullard ECC88?


 
  
 Siemens 6922.  Besides my Siemens I have an Amperex 6922, GE Smokie ECC88, JAN Philips 6922, and Tesla 6922.  My Siemens 6922 (possible CCa) wins hands down, no question.  For gaming however I run my GE Smokie because it seems stupid running an $85 tube for gaming.
  
 Here is a good deal on a RCA labeled gold pin Siemens 6922.  You can find out who actually made it by the codes on the metal frame inside the tubes (RCA didn't produce tubes in Germany).  For example I have an Amperex 6922 that is a labeled RCA and it was made in West Germany.  It may not be as cool as it saying Siemens, but you can't beat that price or the quality of that type of year from Siemens.  I did see these also, which are Siemens labeled and the tests are very very good for $50, but you don't know which out of the 4 tubes you are getting.  I would assume you can select which one when you buy since he has 3 left.  I'd say that is also worth checking into, maybe even more than the RCA labeled one.  There are a lot of good deals on Ebay and I have only purchased NOS tubes from Ebay with not a single problem.  If the seller has good feedback on selling tubes and they list the equipment (or picture of tube during testing is even better, but cost more), you normally have nothing to worry about and the EBay 14 day return applies to them still.
  
 $53.50 shipped if you do buy it now, but I bet he would take $40-$45.
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Siemens-6922-6DJ8-Gold-Pins-Wide-Getter-Support-A49G-94-89-TV-7-/321639510654?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae335727e
  


> Tests 94/89 on my recently calibrated TV/7.  _Subjective Microphonic Level_ on a scale of 10, where 0 is free of microphonic noise and 10 is extremely noisy: 1 Extremely quiet.


 
  
 It's not perfect, but a perfectly balanced Siemens 6922 like the one I have runs between $85-$200 depending on the seller.  However some days you may see one for $50 that is almost perfectly balanced, but it is very rare someone with the equipment and knowledge would price it that low as these tubes are very sought after.
  
  
 Just for example here is a pair of Siemens 6922 labeled RCAs for $400:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-new-tubes-Siemens-RCA-6922-Gold-pins-factory-matched-NOS-NIB-Germany-1960s-/121373360670?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c426a821e


----------



## joeq70

rozenberg said:


> I ended up pairing my Aune with Matrix M-Stage. It's great.
> 
> Now thinking to replace my stock 6922EH.
> Genalex Gold Lion or Mullard ECC88?



I prefer the Genalex Gold Lion myself. I have not heard a Mullard yet, though.


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> I prefer the Genalex Gold Lion myself. I have not heard a Mullard yet, though.


Have you tried an amperex 7308 yet?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Don't we need to know which headphones they are running before telling them which tube is "best" though?
  
 Haha I just thought about that after I wrote all the info I did.
  
 I just don't think most people are going to prefer a Gold Lion over an equally priced NOS tube that matches their setup.  Even with very colored headphones a Siemens 6922 is very neutral and mildly bright, yet retains the entire frequency spectrum better than any other tube I have rolled.  I haven't heard another tube do so well with jazz/classical as it does with classic rock and even rap music.  Most tubes seem to be one trick ponies to me from my list on the last page, either great with music or movies or gaming, etc.  The Siemens 6922 is what I use (or want to) for everything, but during long gaming session I'll replace it with a GE Smokie so I don't put hours on the Siemens with something I don't really care THAT much about the audio on (I do care, just not critical listening).  Another thing is sooo many people keep recommending the Amperex 7308, while that is a great tube, I don't think it's worth the price.  Most of the time they are more expensive than a perfectly balanced Siemens 6922 (which everyone has also seen recommended a lot, by myself and others).
  
 A member named Coil who used to be one of the biggest contributors of this thread (he still reads this and will PM you if he thinks he can help) told me he owns five Siemens 6922 tubes.  He has the identical capacitor upgrades to the T1 as me and he even bothered to put a CMC gold plated OFC ceramic socket in the T1, something I have thought about doing.  He owns over 70 tubes and 8 headphones and yet his favorite overall is the Siemens 6922/E88CC (gold pins/grey shield) just like the one I posted at the bottom of the last page.  I'm not saying it's the perfect tube for everyone, but there is a reason these tubes fetch well over $100 and going into the $300-$400 range for CCa Siemens on places like TubeMonger.
  
 I recommend anyone who hasn't read this, to read it: http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
  
 For example regarding the RCA Siemens tube I posted one page back I just randomly read this: "RCA 6922 tubes were made by Siemens in Germany, and also have gold pins. These are great tubes, but are not as plentiful."
  
 If you want to know about NOS 6922/E88CC/6DJ8/ECC88/E188CC/7308/lol tubes, that is a great read and I used to have more like it.  I'll post them if I can dig them back up, or you can search through 443 pages of this thread, haha.


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Have you tried an amperex 7308 yet?



Yep, it was warm and holographic, but not as punchy sounding as my other tubes. Great tube, but not for me.


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> Yep, it was warm and holographic, but not as punchy sounding as my other tubes. Great tube, but not for me.


I enjoy the gold lion also with dark recordings, and pop it in whenever I listen through my speakers, but the synergy of the 7308, Asgard 2 and my hd580's with a well produced album is pretty awesome


----------



## NCSUZoSo

WOW, I can't believe this guy just accepted my offer.
  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321639510651
  
 That is a Siemens 6922 CCa "Pinched Waist" tube, they are EXTREMELY rare.  Not only to be a CCa, but a pinched waist one and yes the test results on it are not great (76/60), but I grabbed it up for $65...
  
 For $65 that is a hell of a deal just to put that in a case on my shelf.
  
 I can't wait to hear how this sounds compared to my current Siemens 6922 (gold pins/silver shields).
  
 Here is a picture, it's not immediately obvious, but if you look at it closely you can see the glass comes in where the metal elements are and this is one of the highly sought after tubes where the glass touches the metal.
  

  
  
  
 I'm so excited about this tube.  Haha I actually posted it earlier and then immediately removed it when I saw it was a pinched waist CCa.
  
  
  
 From http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm:
  


> Also rare are the "pinched waist" versions of this tube. This is actually a molding flaw which made the glass bottom slightly fatter around the outside than the rest of the tube, and the center of the tube actually dips inward and touches the metal elements inside. Clients report these are incredible sounding tubes, and the upward spiral of prices for the rare pinch waist types seem to bear this out.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> WOW, I can't believe this guy just accepted my offer.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321639510651
> 
> ...


 
 Nice score! Is your other tube a grey shield, or silver as well? I've heard the grey's sound better, but I have no idea since I've never heard a CCa myself. Waiting your impressions...
  
 Also, appreciate all of your posts on the Siemens tubes... they really are excellent!


----------



## NCSUZoSo

My other is also silver and yes I've heard the greys are better too.  However I think a "plain jane" Siemens with grey shield would probably lose to CCa pinched waist
   
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 BTW, this tube on the way was made in the same location as mine, Wiener Radio Werkes Germany.  However this one is from May 1970 where mine is from May 1966.
  
  
 It's going to be audio Christmas when that tube gets here along with my Magni 2.


----------



## mikoss

Awesome posts @NCSUZoSo Love the Siemens tubes as well!
 
Here are some pics of a NOS Miniwatt I found by calling a bunch of tube stores in the USA. This was from www.vacuumtubes.net and the last one they had... I highly recommend them as the owner is extremely knowledgeable, and their tubes are very well priced. I'll see how it sounds in the next while.

  

  

  
 
VR5 production code, 15L week code printed on top, and delta2D1. Heerlen started producing in '57 I believe, so if '57/'58 was VR0, your year code and date code should basically count up each year, which makes sense.
 
If you look at Valvo 7308 tubes, you may notice the VR and other batch codes started at a different year, but frustratingly enough, were copies of the same batch codes Amperex/ Philips used.
I'll try and explain, using an eBay conversation I had with a great seller, jbirck:
 
 
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/161570910216 - Valvo made tubes, not rebranded... made in the Hamburg plant with A-Frame supports, 7L3 batch codes and D6E2 date codes... NOT Hollands, D = Hamburg. These were made in the Hamburg factory by Valvo (which was Philips in Germany, I believe).
 
Compare them to Holland tubes with 7L5 and 7L6 batch codes, and 1960 and 1961 date codes:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-HOLLAND-E88CC-6922-ONE-PAIR-/161561676468?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item259dd38ab4
 
 
Notice that 7L5 and 7L6 from the Holland plant correspond to 1960 and 1961, yet 7L3 at the Hamburg plant corresponds to 1966 (or possibly even 1976, which I don't believe... I would be very surprised if Hamburg wasn't making tubes in the 60's).
 
So the A-Frame supported tubes with D factory codes are definitely not Hollands, and I think they were made in the actual Hamburg plant... they started their batch codes later (possibly in '63 as opposed to Holland in maybe '57 or '58). So a 7L0 from Holland would be 1957/58 or so, yet a 7L0 from Hamburg would be 1962/63 or so...
 
 
ps. I bought the Hamburg tubes from '66 with A-frame supports... I'll let you guys know how Hamburg tubes sound once I get them. Hoping they sound different from Hollands... possibly more like Siemens tubes


----------



## Rozenberg

ncsuzoso said:


> Siemens 6922.  Besides my Siemens I have an Amperex 6922, GE Smokie ECC88, JAN Philips 6922, and Tesla 6922.  My Siemens 6922 (possible CCa) wins hands down, no question.  For gaming however I run my GE Smokie because it seems stupid running an $85 tube for gaming.
> 
> Here is a good deal on a RCA labeled gold pin Siemens 6922.  You can find out who actually made it by the codes on the metal frame inside the tubes (RCA didn't produce tubes in Germany).  For example I have an Amperex 6922 that is a labeled RCA and it was made in West Germany.  It may not be as cool as it saying Siemens, but you can't beat that price or the quality of that type of year from Siemens.  I did see these also, which are Siemens labeled and the tests are very very good for $50, but you don't know which out of the 4 tubes you are getting.  I would assume you can select which one when you buy since he has 3 left.  I'd say that is also worth checking into, maybe even more than the RCA labeled one.  There are a lot of good deals on Ebay and I have only purchased NOS tubes from Ebay with not a single problem.  If the seller has good feedback on selling tubes and they list the equipment (or picture of tube during testing is even better, but cost more), you normally have nothing to worry about and the EBay 14 day return applies to them still.
> 
> ...


 
  
 The only Siemens 6922 I could find locally are the CCa and they go like almost 300€
 Importing from US, aye..... I'm not really sure 
 But if I could get it for $40 then maybe not so bad. Only takes long to arrive.
 Maybe I'll purchase them a bit later, but between the 1969 Siemens 6922 and the Halske, do they differ much?
  
  


joeq70 said:


> I prefer the Genalex Gold Lion myself. I have not heard a Mullard yet, though.


 
 I'd want to try the Gold Lion. Could get it for 44€ here.
 Hoping it would sound different from the stock 6922EH because my 6N23P-EV didn't make any improvement over the stock.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

rozenberg said:


> The only Siemens 6922 I could find locally are the CCa and they go like almost 300€
> Importing from US, aye..... I'm not really sure
> But if I could get it for $40 then maybe not so bad. Only takes long to arrive.
> Maybe I'll purchase them a bit later, but between the 1969 Siemens 6922 and the Halske, do they differ much?
> ...


 
  
  
 Siemens is Halske when it comes to tubes (Siemens & Halske), so no they shouldn't differ at all.


----------



## thinkpol

Hey guys, I just picked up a pair of HD650s and the T1 Mk2 =) Any thoughts on these tubes:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-6DJ8-ECC88-SMOKIE-VACUUM-TUBE-1970s-SINGLE-FOIL-O-GTR-SUPER-SWEET-TONE-G18A-/321655861317?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae42ef045
  
 Good deal? What kind of sound will they have?


----------



## chowmein83

thinkpol said:


> Hey guys, I just picked up a pair of HD650s and the T1 Mk2 =) Any thoughts on these tubes:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-6DJ8-ECC88-SMOKIE-VACUUM-TUBE-1970s-SINGLE-FOIL-O-GTR-SUPER-SWEET-TONE-G18A-/321655861317?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae42ef045
> 
> Good deal? What kind of sound will they have?


 
  
 I can't comment exactly on the tubes you're going to get, but I have heard the HD650 with the T1 mk1 and Amperex Orange Globes, and they sounded good. With my tubes, the whole combination was definitely on the warmer side. But the T1 to me seemed to have enough power to drive the HD650s well.


----------



## mikoss

thinkpol said:


> Hey guys, I just picked up a pair of HD650s and the T1 Mk2 =) Any thoughts on these tubes:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-6DJ8-ECC88-SMOKIE-VACUUM-TUBE-1970s-SINGLE-FOIL-O-GTR-SUPER-SWEET-TONE-G18A-/321655861317?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae42ef045
> 
> Good deal? What kind of sound will they have?




To my ears, they sound fairly laid back and fairly neutral... I'd say there's an emphasis towards the lower midrange/ bass although I find it a bit loose for my taste. I also find the higher end seems to be less emphasized and perhaps rolled off. 

These tubes have received glowing reviews in this thread from at least a couple of people. Not sure if they're using the HD-650s with them, but I am.

Not sure what you're looking for as far as sound goes, but I would say they're probably more accurate sounding than a lot of the tubes in the same price range. As for gelling with the 650s, I personally prefer tubes with a bit more detail... A cheap recommendation would be the Amperex OG's chowmein suggested (the midrange sounds very lush paired with the 650s), or Philips Jan 6922 whichshould be the same price as the GE Smokeys.

Just my opinion... I'm sure you'll enjoy them either way, and they're cheap.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

The price vs. performance for someone who is a new NOS tube buyer, a GE Smokie ECC88 is definitely the way to go.  An all around great tube for the money,  I really don't know what else I would recommend at the ~$20 price point (or below)
  
 It's actually my go to tube for gaming sessions when I don't want to use my Siemens 6922.
  
  
  
 This is Ebay seller Greengirl613 who I have bought almost all of my high end tubes from for my Fender Blues Jr. and she/they have never let me down. 
  
$23.99 Shipped.
  


> *Tested on a Hickok 6000A  Micromhos -- * *Results = 8000/7500*


 
  
  
 There are definitely cheaper GE Smokies out there, but this is definitely a good option.
  
  
 I have purchased from this seller also offering GE Smokies for $12.99 Shipped, he says they are testing 100%/100%.
  


> *I PERSONALLY purchase, clean, identify, test, and stand behind every tube on this site. I have a small company. You will deal with me personally. *


 
  
  
 (I have no connection to the sellers of these ads besides experience buying from them or just randomly coming across their ads to help people)


----------



## mikoss

Like I said, just my recommendation, but this tube sounds better with the 650's to me... It's also cheaper:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=131418962330&alt=web 


Also here an Amperex Holland (delta5E = 1965) made 6dj8 for dirt cheap:
 http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=190844243066&alt=web

And an E88CC for a bit more:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=251704338751&alt=web


----------



## SirMarc

Just did an A/B between the amperex 7308 and gold lion with a well produced track I know extremely well and no offence joe, but at least with my headphones, they're in different leagues. The 7308 does it pretty dirty. larger soundstage, more natural timber, more vinyl sounding to me. The gold lion is by no means bad, but there's a reason I bought a spare 7308 even though the price has gone up. Could also be good synergy between the Asgard 2 and HD 580's


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Just did an A/B between the amperex 7308 and gold lion with a well produced track I know extremely well and no offence joe, but at least with my headphones, they're in different leagues. The 7308 does it pretty dirty. larger soundstage, more natural timber, more vinyl sounding to me. The gold lion is by no means bad, but there's a reason I bought a spare 7308 even though the price has gone up. Could also be good synergy between the Asgard 2 and HD 580's



No offense taken. I totally believe you. Tube preference is going to be closely tied to headphone choice. For me, I have extremely detailed headphones that sound really addicting with aggressive sounding gear. I go back and forth between the Gold Lion and my 6n23p Voskhod Rocket Logo. The Voskhod does not scale well with better amps but with the stock amp and my headphones, the mids presentation is rather tactile and addicting. Yet I would not consider the Voskhod a tube that will work for everyone. 

The reason I purchased the miniwatt dario e188cc is I changed the pads on my headphones which makes the sound more intimate. When I was using bowl pads, the spacious sound offered by the amperex 7308 was a bit too relaxed. I wish I still had one to see if the other pads would have made a difference.


----------



## SirMarc

Suprised you sold it. I keep them all, just in case, and every now and then I switch them around, but I always come back to the 7308


----------



## thinkpol

Thanks for the suggestions! I'll definitely check out the orange globes in addition to the smokies. Or should I get a "holy grail" tube for more cash than getting 2-4 cheaper tubes? 
  
 Any thoughts on the Aune X3 and what amp to power it? Or better off going with the T1 into an active speaker like the Audioengine A2 or A5?


----------



## SirMarc

I tend to judge everything against the way a good turntable with a good ss amp sounds. This is the closest I've gotten with digital files. Pretty happy


----------



## NCSUZoSo

thinkpol said:


> Thanks for the suggestions! I'll definitely check out the orange globes in addition to the smokies. Or should I get a "holy grail" tube for more cash than getting 2-4 cheaper tubes?
> 
> Any thoughts on the Aune X3 and what amp to power it? Or better off going with the T1 into an active speaker like the Audioengine A2 or A5?


 
  
 Most of us looking for "holy grail" tubes will buy 3-4 high end tubes before we land on one, or more.  Even though I have one of the rarest Siemens tubes on the way to my house right now, I can't guarantee you that it is going to sound better than the Siemens I am already running.  It should, but I don't know.
  
 I would recommend you try out a variety of NOS tubes that are reasonable, that way you can figure out if you are looking for a more colored sound or something more neutral or sterile.  For example if you love a GE Smokie and hate a JAN Philips, to me that says you are looking for a colored tone from the tube.  Say that is the case and you bought a Siemens CCa E188CC without knowing, then you have a very neutral tube and even though it is one of the most popular/expensive tubes available, you'd probably prefer something like an Amperex 6922 if you had known you liked the Smokie better.  Without you doing that you really have no idea what you are looking for to match your setup.
  
 If you use these guides:
  
 http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
 https://www.tubeworld.com/6922.htm
 http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html   (scroll down to "The 6DJ8, 6922, 7308 Saga - Part 2")
  
  
 You will get a good understanding of the "signature" sound from each tube that falls into the families we can use.
  
 Hell think of this, to get a replacement EH 6922 Gold will cost you more than a GE Smokie, haha.
  
 One other thing, honest to God with the Aune T1 using the tube as a sort of EQ curve (buffer) it takes a highly trained ear to tell the differences when you get up in the higher tier tubes vs. the normal priced ones (not even saying I can tell if there was another tube that sounded like a gold pin/silver plate 6922 Siemens).


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> Most of us looking for "holy grail" tubes will buy 3-4 high end tubes before we land on one, or more.  Even though I have one of the rarest Siemens tubes on the way to my house right now, I can't guarantee you that it is going to sound better than the Siemens I am already running.  It should, but I don't know.
> 
> I would recommend you try out a variety of NOS tubes that are reasonable, that way you can figure out if you are looking for a more colored sound or something more neutral or sterile.  For example if you love a GE Smokie and hate a JAN Philips, to me that says you are looking for a colored tone from the tube.  Say that is the case and you bought a Siemens CCa E188CC without knowing, then you have a very neutral tube and even though it is one of the most popular/expensive tubes available, you'd probably prefer something like an Amperex 6922 if you had known you liked the Smokie better.  Without you doing that you really have no idea what you are looking for to match your setup.


 
 Great advice.
  
 I heard absolutely no difference between the affect the different gain settings had on my headphones when I first heard the T1 with the EH 6922 tube. Almost a year later, I was swapping around the dip switches and was amazed at the affect the gain was having. I think it takes a while to fully understand the nuances between different tubes, and I also recommend playing around with some cheap ones first.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Hey guys, just a little FYI.
  
 The Amp PCB does indeed cost $8 according to Aune to replace.  However if you live in the US, shipping will run you almost 3x that much...
  
 In other words do not break anything if you are modding.  Crappy part for me is I was done modding months ago and I was literally just screwing around with the base of the T1 when I somehow shorted two resistors.  I am just going to buy two through hole 28 Ohm resistors and solder them on top of the blown ones to see if maybe that will fix it.  Two resistors should cost me about $1 max, but since RadioShack went Chapter 11, I'm not sure where I can get them without paying at least $2-$3 in shipping.  Ideas?


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> Hey guys, just a little FYI.
> 
> The Amp PCB does indeed cost $8 according to Aune to replace.  However if you live in the US, shipping will run you almost 3x that much...
> 
> In other words do not break anything if you are modding.  Crappy part for me is I was done modding months ago and I was literally just screwing around with the base of the T1 when I somehow shorted two resistors.  I am just going to buy two through hole 28 Ohm resistors and solder them on top of the blown ones to see if maybe that will fix it.  Two resistors should cost me about $1 max, but since RadioShack went Chapter 11, I'm not sure where I can get them without paying at least $2-$3 in shipping.  Ideas?


RadioShack is still open in my neighborhood.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

All 3 locations near me are closed.


----------



## penmarker

There are two RadioShacks here where I'm from (Malaysia). But because of the conversion rate and import taxes, price mark ups, etc, they're pretty expensive.


----------



## joeq70

I got the E188CC today. Impressions will follow shortly.


----------



## joeq70

Quick First Impressions:
  
 End Game Tube.


----------



## mikoss

Lol so I take it that you're happy with the Mini?


----------



## joeq70

Okay, so now that I've had more time with this tube, I'll take some time to discuss it in more detail. First, a pic of the tube in question:
  

  
 This is a Miniwatt Dario E188CC with date code VR6⊿3A2. The code indicates that it was made by Philips/Amperex in Holland at the Heerlen factory. It tests NOS and has closely matched triodes.
  
 When I stated in my earlier post that this is an end-game quality tube, I meant it. Here's why:
  
 1) The balance of the presentation of the various frequencies is outstanding. The tube is spacious and holographic, while having a nice bottom end slam and great treble extension. And the mids are not recessed.
  
 2) The Miniwatt Dario E188CC is slightly warm of neutral, which is a pleasant place to be. The Gold Lion is what I'd consider digital sounding and clean. The Voskhod Rocket Logo is mid-centric with dirty, punchy midbass and vocal intimacy but less soundstage. The Miniwatt Dario E188CC strikes a great balance between the two. It is smooth but spacious and detailed sounding without being too polite. 
  
 3) Excellent holographic soundstage. I'd really like to pair this tube with a better amp to see how much further improvement is possible.
  
 4) Having listened to a decent variety of different tubes, I can say that the Miniwatt Dario E188CC is an excellent tube to have at least one of on hand because it is so well balanced and refined. I cannot say for sure that it will be the perfect pairing for every headphone out there but it certainly deserves strong consideration.
  
 That said, even after the immense praise I've heaped upon it, I still need to do some more A/Bing to determine if it is the end-of-the-road, perfect match for my particular headphones and music taste.


----------



## joeq70

joeq70 said:


> That said, even after the immense praise I've heaped upon it, I still need to do some more A/Bing to determine if it is the end-of-the-road, perfect match for my particular headphones and music taste.


 
  
 Welp, the A/B is done, and surprise! the Miniwatt wins. The bass on the Miniwatt is killer.


----------



## mikoss

Yeah baby, all the bass of the Siemens E188cc's, holographic mids of the Amperex 7308's, and extended highs that really bring out the micro details. 

Next stop might be CCa's or pinched waist tubes... I've been looking around and trying out a used Valvo Holland CCa whenever it gets here...


----------



## SirMarc

Damn, you guys suck! I was set on my amperex 7308's being end game. Now I want one of these miniwatts! Lol, it never ends...


----------



## Hansotek

joeq70 said:


> joeq70 said:
> 
> 
> > That said, even after the immense praise I've heaped upon it, I still need to do some more A/Bing to determine if it is the end-of-the-road, perfect match for my particular headphones and music taste.
> ...



OMG, I can't wait for mine to arrive after reading that write-up. Hurry it up, Bulgarian postal workers!


----------



## NCSUZoSo

joeq70 said:


> This is a Miniwatt Dario E188CC with date code VR6Δ3A2. The code indicates that it was made by Amperex in Holland at the Herleen factory. It tests NOS and has closely matched triodes.


 
  
  
 What did you use for determining that?  I have a few code book links saved and I have a JAN Philips that I used this on:
  
 http://www.pauls-roehren.de/downloads/PhilipsCodeListAB.pdf
  
 According to that, this (Δ) symbol means: Philips, Copenhagen
  
 My Siemens CCa "pinched waist" (hopefully) will arrive in the next few hours





 I can't be 100% certain it is a pinched waist until it gets here because dealing with a camera not perfectly flat shooting at the tube (no flash though) with a slight jitter you can't be sure.
  

  
 It's definitely not obvious when I post it that small, but if you look at the glass from the top going down the entire thing goes inward to me and there is a distinct "pinch" right where the metal elements are.  (click for full size)
  
 Even if it turns out not to be a pinched waist I still got an amazing deal on CCa for $65.
  
 Siemens CCa tubes ranging anywhere from 1950's to early 1970's are some of the most sought after and expensive tubes out there.  I have seen perfectly matched triode Siemens CCa tubes go for $250-$400 each (gray & silver shields).  The only negative thing people say about Siemens E88CC/E188CC tubes is that they lack the bass of say a Amperex 7308 (I don't like that tube though), however the CCa is supposed to bring the bass out more and the pinched waist is supposed to be the _holy grail_.  If it turns out to be one it will be awesome, even if I don't like the sound I'll put it in a case on a shelf either way (lol).  Although I don't know if I believe in a specific tube being "the holy grail" for everyone.  I think your amplifier and your headphones are going to sway you on that one.
  
 Oh and my Magni 2 is going to get here today also


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> What did you use for determining that?  I have a few code book links saved and I have a JAN Philips that I used this on:
> 
> http://www.pauls-roehren.de/downloads/PhilipsCodeListAB.pdf
> 
> According to that, this (Δ) symbol means: Philips, Copenhagen


 
 Every seller and every forum I saw that discussed e188cc philips miniwatt/miniwatt dario and that  mentioned the date code described  the delta symbol as being from Philips/Amperex factory in Heerlen, Holland.My tube even has Holland printed on the label as part of the logo. However, after looking at the resource you linked to, I think people are mixing up two of the symbols. The ⊿ symbol is what is on my tube NOT the delta symbol. It looks really similar so I can see why me and everyone else assumed it was delta. According to the resource you linked, the ⊿ is Heerlen, Holland.


----------



## penmarker

Looked at the price for the Miniwatt Dario E188CC and I just went "nope".
  
 I'd want to try them out though.


----------



## joeq70

penmarker said:


> Looked at the price for the Miniwatt Dario E188CC and I just went "nope".
> 
> I'd want to try them out though.


 
 Not sure about the prices you saw, but I got mine for $90 shipped.


----------



## rwpritchett

joeq70 said:


> ... $90 shipped.




Yeah, that's a nope.


----------



## mikoss

Yeah half triangle is Heerlen, Holland. Most people refer to it as delta when they're referencing 6dj8 or 6922. The full triangle I've never seen on 6dj8/6922 so maybe they didn't make 6dj8/6922 tubes at the Copenhagen plant. I have seen *, F, D and R for US, French tubes, German and UK respectively. (Along with the Siemens and Telefunken codes as well).

$90 is a great price for the tubes... I said before and I'll say again, I'm selling all my other tubes in exchange for these.


----------



## Hansotek

joeq70 said:


> penmarker said:
> 
> 
> > Looked at the price for the Miniwatt Dario E188CC and I just went "nope".
> ...


 
 That's a steal! I think mine was $123. I've seen a few matched pairs anywhere between $220 and $300/pr. So $90 is great.
  
 For what it's worth, I was looking for 1962 specifically, so that might have skewed my price results a bit. Not sure if there is any difference/what the difference is between that and the '63 you have. Your review pretty much aligned with everything I read about the '62.


----------



## mikoss

Finally found a pinched waist. Will offer impressions with the Aune T1 when it arrives.


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> Oh and my Magni 2 is going to get here today also


 
 I'd love to hear your A/B impressions between the T1 amp and your Magni 2.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

To start off with I recommend comparing tubes using something like this that gives you a solid reference between tubes:
  
 http://www.hdtracks.com/the-ultimate-headphone-demonstration-disc-166309
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/715795/dr-cheskys-ultimate-headphone-demonstration-disc-head-fi-tv
  
 To get 20% off use the Head-Fi discount code: UHDD20
  
 This gives you all-binaural music (see Head-Fi link) with insane quality available (96/24 & 192/24) and with all of the HD Audio I have like Blu-Ray audio (especially Allman Brothers @ The 1971 Fillmore East Recordings Blu-Ray edition) I still come to that Chesky Ultimate Headphone Demo for comparing tubes.  I do this because that disk gives you everything from classical to jazz to rock and then specific demos to basically test your gear to its full potential.
  
  
 Sadly I can't compare the Magni 2 to the stock T1 amp because I blew it out while screwing around with the base of the unit (I was already 100% done modding, lol).  I can tell you this, I compared the stock T1 amp with my Yamaha RX-V863's amp and I was blown away at the difference there.  I could finally hear how weak that $8 amp (with $21 shipping..) in the T1 is.  The Yamaha added more depth and bass that was just not existent with the T1's amp.  Now I have compared the Magni 2 to the Yamaha's amp and it is once again a large upgrade (and now the setup is portable again), my main complaint with using the Yamaha was the noise produced using it.  Using the Magni 2 if I have nothing playing I can't hear *anything*, even with all the volumes maxed (Magni 2 & OS).  I also noticed the Magni 2 has more of a spacious and transparent sound, but this could also be because of the CCa tube.
  
 On my new Siemens CCa, it is not a pinched waist after all, but I wasn't very upset about that.  For $65, if that seller accepted that offer on a CCa pinched waist I would have questioned everything on his testing methods, haha.  I have been comparing my 1969 Siemens 6922 (gold pins/silver shields), 1966 GE Smokie and RCA Labeled USA Amperex 6922 with the CCa.  I haven't had enough time with the CCa really to say much more than this.  The CCa first off is extremely articulate compared to the Smokie or USA Amperex, but the bass is actually more ressed than the other Siemens. The CCa has better transparency and more detail than the Siemens 6922, however I think it lacks a _little_ of the sparkle the 6922 possesses.  It also has more of the unique attribute I always notice when comparing Siemens tubes to the one listed above, it's this openness or as some say, dimensional element.  It basically creates a more realistic sounding experience with very clean mids/treble, basically an airiness.  I was using the GE Smokie (a tube I know very, very well) as more of a palate cleanser to be able to hear the differences between the two Siemens and then throwing in the Amperex USA as another high end comparison.  Both of my Siemens are very impressive tubes when compared to the GE Smokie or Amperex USA.  When I put in the Amperex USA after listening to the CCa I get a jump in bass, but it sounds congested/muddy when listening to a song I know very well compared to the Siemens. 
  
 There is one thing I always take away from comparing these tubes, that damn GE Smokie impresses me every singe time I do this.  Now I did get a matched pair of GE Smokies that tested 118%/118% and 117/117% on a B&K 747 (*for $25 total*), but I have heard so many people praise the Smokie as a tube at an extremely good price that can play with the big boys and they can.  Of course I prefer the Siemens tubes over the Smokies, but starting out on selecting tubes if I had never used NOS or was weary of doing it, the GE Smokie is what I would go to in a heartbeat knowing what I know now.
  
 I am really not sure which of the Siemens tubes I am going to put in as my primary, haha.  Each one has elements that are better than the other, such as bass vs. detail and articulation vs. sparkle.  Overall the CCa is more neutral with an amazing amount of detail (listening to a guitar solo has never sounded better, i.e. Led Zeppelin - White Summer) where the 6922 has a little more of a sound signature with the better bass out of the two.  There are a few reasons why I am very glad I had the chance to get the CCa for such a reasonable price, but one that stands out in what I have discussed is I NEVER thought I would say my Siemens 6922 has a sound signature.  I had never heard a more neutral sounding tube than it until I got the CCa and then I realized there is a sparkle to the 6922 that does affect the experience (not in a bad way), same type of change you hear with a guitar amp when adjusting the sparkle knob (if it has one, mine does).  One thing is for sure the Magni 2 is worth every penny to pair with the T1, instead of buying another $100 tube (lol), you guys should definitely consider the Magni, I wish I had earlier. Just think about it, we are putting so much money into the tubes we roll with the T1, yet we are using an $8 amp to send the signal to our headphones.  When Aune finally confirmed that it is literally $8 to replace, I was kind of blown away by that.  Our T1s are such great DACs, but have such a mediocre (at best) amplifier.  If you have ANYTHING else you can amplify the signal with using the line out you need to do it and I would bet almost anything else is going to sound better.
  


> OK , it is also $8USD , i think we only can send from China , and right now we only can send by EMS , thanks
> 
> 
> Candy
> Wuhan Ao Lai Er Technology Co.LTD


 
  
  
 The T1 actually sits on the Magni 2 perfectly, it is like they were made for each other, both physically and audibly!  I will post pictures later on of the "T1 Magni Stack"
  
  
_Note: I did not have time to read what I wrote and I was in a hurry so there is a good chance some of it is missing a word in spots or "the" instead of "they", etc. haha_


----------



## theblueprint

ncsuzoso said:


> One thing is for sure the Magni 2 is worth every penny to pair with the T1, instead of buying another $100 tube (lol), you guys should definitely consider the Magni, I wish I had earlier. Just think about it, we are putting so much money into the tubes we roll with the T1, yet we are using an $8 amp to send the signal to our headphones.  When Aune finally confirmed that it is literally $8 to replace, I was kind of blown away by that.  Our T1s are such great DACs, but have such a mediocre (at best) amplifier.  If you have ANYTHING else you can amplify the signal with using the line out you need to do it and I would bet almost anything else is going to sound better.
> 
> 
> 
> The T1 actually sits on the Magni 2 perfectly, it is like they were made for each other, both physically and audibly!  I will post pictures later on of the "T1 Magni Stack"


 

 Loved your review. I am currently working with an Aune T1 and have entertained the thought of stacking it with a Magni. Though I do have a question. Will I still get the tubey sound when using the Magni's amp?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

By using the Line Out you keep everything about the T1 except the amp.  The tube buffer is tied to the DAC, it has nothing to do with the amp.  I don't even have the amp PCB inside my T1 anymore, haha.  You'll see an empty hole in the front of my T1 when I have a chance to take a photo of the T1 on top of the Magni 2.
  
 So the short answer is yes, you will get all the tube sound you get when using the on-board amp when using an external amp through the Line Out.
  
 and thanks!  It seems every time I write something like that it is the last post of the page, haha.


----------



## Hansotek

For those who have opened up the the T1, is the USB bus port powered by the incoming power from the USB cable, or the 12V adaptor?
  
 I assume the port is powered by the USB, as is standard practice, but wanted to see if anyone who has actually seen the circuit up close knows for sure.


----------



## MrEleventy

hansotek said:


> For those who have opened up the the T1, is the USB bus port powered by the incoming power from the USB cable, or the 12V adaptor?
> 
> I assume the port is powered by the USB, as is standard practice, but wanted to see if anyone who has actually seen the circuit up close knows for sure.


12V Adapter. I believe someone has tested it by disconnecting the 5V pin in a usb cord and the T1 still worked.


----------



## Hansotek

mreleventy said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > For those who have opened up the the T1, is the USB bus port powered by the incoming power from the USB cable, or the 12V adaptor?
> ...


 
  
 Thanks. Just doing some A/B tests with Wyrd in the chain. It makes ODAC sound crazy, crazy good, but doesn't do a ton for the Aune. Independent power for the USB port would seem to confirm my theories.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

For anyone that missed my initial impressions of the Siemens CCa and Magni 2, it's the last post on the page before (445).


----------



## Hansotek

The Dario Miniwatt arrived today. Yeah, this tube is a straight-up END GAME. I was hard pressed to tell the difference between the T1/Dario and my Wyrd>ODAC>Burson HA-160 setup. The bass is heavenly. It hits hard and clean. PERFECT punch, impact, decay and rumble, IMO. Soundstage is as good as I have ever heard out of the Aune. Very musical and even throughout the entire frequency range and very airy and transparent. I think I'm going to like this tube even better than my Telefunkens... Need to test it with more cans to be sure. Only used the HE500 so far, but as I said before, it was VERY hard to tell the difference between this $300ish T1/Dario combo and my $1,000ish reference setup. At the end of the day, for what this tube provides, it's a heck of a value. Here are some pics:


----------



## joeq70

hansotek said:


> The Dario Miniwatt arrived today. Yeah, this tube is a straight-up END GAME. I was hard pressed to tell the difference between the T1/Dario and my Wyrd>ODAC>Burson HA-160 setup. The bass is heavenly. It hits hard and clean. PERFECT punch, impact, decay and rumble, IMO. Soundstage is as good as I have ever heard out of the Aune. Very musical and even throughout the entire frequency range and very airy and transparent. I think I'm going to like this tube even better than my Telefunkens... Need to test it with more cans to be sure. Only used the HE500 so far, but as I said before, it was VERY hard to tell the difference between this $300ish T1/Dario combo and my $1,000ish reference setup. At the end of the day, for what this tube provides, it's a heck of a value. Here are some pics:


 
 Told you. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
 ...and mikoss told me. Well done Mike!!!


----------



## mikoss

Very nice. Any info on the batch and date code? The nicest one I've heard is a '61 Heerlen Miniwatt, but I'm not entirely sure if the earlier tubes actually sound better... either way glad to hear you're happy with the sound


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Quote:


hansotek said:


> The Dario Miniwatt arrived today. Yeah, this tube is a straight-up END GAME. I was hard pressed to tell the difference between the T1/Dario and my Wyrd>ODAC>Burson HA-160 setup. The bass is heavenly. It hits hard and clean. PERFECT punch, impact, decay and rumble, IMO. Soundstage is as good as I have ever heard out of the Aune. Very musical and even throughout the entire frequency range and very airy and transparent. I think I'm going to like this tube even better than my Telefunkens... Need to test it with more cans to be sure. Only used the HE500 so far, but as I said before, it was VERY hard to tell the difference between this $300ish T1/Dario combo and my $1,000ish reference setup. At the end of the day, for what this tube provides, it's a heck of a value.


 
  
  
 It's not just the Aune T1, you aren't using the internal amp to push $600 HE500s according to your pics.
  
 Looks like you are running Line Out into the Schiit Lyr 2 or Burson HA-160, which is a hell of an upgrade (to put it lightly) over the internal $8 amp.
  
 So your total would range between $750-$1000 (depending on the amp) for what you are playing out those HE500s.


----------



## Hansotek

mikoss said:


> Very nice. Any info on the batch and date code? The nicest one I've heard is a '61 Heerlen Miniwatt, but I'm not entirely sure if the earlier tubes actually sound better... either way glad to hear you're happy with the sound



Yes. It's a 1962 Harleen. VR5, Delta2G2

I was looking for that '62 specifically after reading a review on it in the Schiit Lyr tub rollers thread. It's definitely living up to the billing.


----------



## Hansotek

ncsuzoso said:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> hansotek said:
> ...



Technically, I'm running the line out into the Burson HA-160 in the photo I posted. However, my comment was comparing the Aune's stock $8 CMOY with the Dario to the Burson setup only. However, I did try it with the Lyr. Here are combos I've tested so far with the tube:

T1 stock amp - Sounds ALMOST like a $1,000 combo (but not quite as perfectly clean)
T1 DAC + HA160 - Not feeling this combo - synergy seems off. 
T1 DAC + Lyr w/ Telefunken E88CCs - As close to vinyl as I've heard. Very delicate analog-sounding musicality.
Reference combo: Wyrd>ODAC>HA-160 - Still the best of the lot. Clean, pristine and punches like Butterbean.


----------



## joeq70

hansotek said:


> Technically, I'm running the line out into the Burson HA-160 in the photo I posted. However, my comment was comparing the Aune's stock $8 CMOY with the Dario to the Burson setup only. However, I did try it with the Lyr. Here are combos I've tested so far with the tube:
> 
> T1 stock amp - Sounds ALMOST like a $1,000 combo (but not quite as perfectly clean)
> T1 DAC + HA160 - Not feeling this combo - synergy seems off.
> ...


 
 This is one of the best breakdown's of the T1's true value that I've seen. Awesome.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

hansotek said:


> Technically, I'm running the line out into the Burson HA-160 in the photo I posted. However, my comment was comparing the Aune's stock $8 CMOY with the Dario to the Burson setup only. However, I did try it with the Lyr. Here are combos I've tested so far with the tube:
> 
> T1 stock amp - Sounds ALMOST like a $1,000 combo (but not quite as perfectly clean)


 
  
 Just so I am clear here.
  
 You are telling me that a Miniwatt in the T1 creates a sound with the stock $8 amp that is almost as good as your ~$450 and ~$700 amps running with the Miniwatt using Line Out?


----------



## Hansotek

joeq70 said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > Technically, I'm running the line out into the Burson HA-160 in the photo I posted. However, my comment was comparing the Aune's stock $8 CMOY with the Dario to the Burson setup only. However, I did try it with the Lyr. Here are combos I've tested so far with the tube:
> ...



Thanks. Yeah, I got huge deals on all of those pieces, but to put the tested combos in perspective with the MSRPs:
T1 ($175) + Dario ($125) = $300 
T1/Dario + Lyr ($450) + Teles ($280) = $1030
T1/Dario + HA-160 ($700) = $1000
Wyrd ($110) + ODAC ($150) + HA-160 = $960

The idea that it can make a $8 CMOY hang with that group is kinda crazy... But it's right there with them.


----------



## Hansotek

ncsuzoso said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > Technically, I'm running the line out into the Burson HA-160 in the photo I posted. However, my comment was comparing the Aune's stock $8 CMOY with the Dario to the Burson setup only. However, I did try it with the Lyr. Here are combos I've tested so far with the tube:
> ...




Yes. It sounds ALMOST exactly like my Burson/ODAC/Wyrd setup. If they were perfectly volume matched, it would be hard to tell the difference. 

The Burson setup is just a little bit cleaner. Punch and decay on the HA-160 are extremely precise. The HA-160 also does a little better job of seperating images panned within the first 20-25 degrees left or right of center and allows a clearer view of the top and bottom of sound images. However, I've only tested this with the HE500, so far. The HE500 exhibits these same issues with ODAC>Lyr as well, FWIW.


----------



## Rozenberg

So guys, uh.... I was thinking, is it possible to solder new opamp to the T1 amp section?
 Kinda want to try it but not sure except if anyone has tried it.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

rozenberg said:


> So guys, uh.... I was thinking, is it possible to solder new opamp to the T1 amp section?
> Kinda want to try it but not sure except if anyone has tried it.


 
  
 It already has a Burr-Brown in it, what were you thinking about replacing it with?  I think there is only one opamp and that means it is a Dual DIP.  Maybe try a Muse01 or Muse02?  I personally like the Muse01 better than the 02, but others prefer it the other way.  As far as I know nobody has ever tried it, or at least been successful and told us about it haha.  I never bothered even thinking about it because the DAC part of the T1 is by far the strongest part of the unit.  I am assuming you have already upgraded the caps.
  
 If you are going to do it, what would be REALLY nice is if you put an opamp socket in there, but I'm not sure how you would go about doing that since that is a surface mount component, but maybe it is possible? lol
  


hansotek said:


> Yes. It sounds ALMOST exactly like my Burson/ODAC/Wyrd setup. If they were perfectly volume matched, it would be hard to tell the difference.
> 
> The Burson setup is just a little bit cleaner. Punch and decay on the HA-160 are extremely precise. The HA-160 also does a little better job of seperating images panned within the first 20-25 degrees left or right of center and allows a clearer view of the top and bottom of sound images. However, I've only tested this with the HE500, so far. The HE500 exhibits these same issues with ODAC>Lyr as well, FWIW.


 
  
 Considering the tube plays zero role in the amp you should get the exact same results using the stock tube or using the Line In and taking the DAC/Tube Buffer completely out of the equation.  If what you are saying was true, I would own a lot of stock in Aune Audio (assuming they are a public company) if they could design an amp they sell for $8 that could compete with amps that cost 50-80x more.  I have tried two different amps with the T1 and the improvements with both are far beyond what any ultra high end tube can offer vs. a solid NOS tube.
  
 I don't doubt the Miniwatt is a great tube, I already knew that, but telling people to spend the cash on a $90-$120 tube and expect the same improvement of a $80-$100 amp upgrade with a $20 NOS tube like the GE Smokie is misleading at best.


----------



## SirMarc

I only have 4 tubes, and use an amperex 7308 pretty much exclusively, but ncu is right, by far the biggest upgrade was my Asgard 2. I was a little disappointed with the t1 no matter which tube I used with my hd580's, but when I hooked up the Asgard 2, I was like OK, now we're talking! After adding the amp, I could honestly live with any of my tubes, including the electro harmonix it came with. That being said, I still want to try a Dario lol


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> Considering the tube plays zero role in the amp you should get the exact same results using the stock tube or using the Line In and taking the DAC/Tube Buffer completely out of the equation.  If what you are saying was true, I would own a lot of stock in Aune Audio (assuming they are a public company) if they could design an amp they sell for $8 that could compete with amps that cost 50-80x more.  I have tried two different amps with the T1 and the improvements with both are far beyond what any ultra high end tube can offer vs. a solid NOS tube.
> 
> I don't doubt the Miniwatt is a great tube, I already knew that, but telling people to spend the cash on a $90-$120 tube and expect the same improvement of a $80-$100 amp upgrade with a $20 NOS tube like the GE Smokie is misleading at best.


 
 When you say the tube plays 0 part in the amp, that is a true statement, but the reality is that audio gear is all about synergy. That's why people disagree all the time on whether X amp or Y DAC is worth spending however much money on. The whole is not necessarily the sum of the parts in audio. Some components simply sound great together, both cheap and expensive. The T1 stock amp is cheap and simple and for whatever reason works really well with some tubes and some headphones. It doesn't work as well with other tubes and headphones. According to Hansotek, for some reason, the Burson HA-160 has poor synergy with the Miniwatt-equipped T1 DAC but the T1 with said tube has great synergy with the cheap stock amp in the T1. I listened to the T1 on a variety of amps from $400 to $1200, and I would spring for the right tube 10 out of 10 times before going for the expensive amp. But that is my experience, with my headphones. It might be different for someone else. Spending money on an amp at any price is a complete crapshoot, anyway, with respect to it being a "better" experience because it's all about synergy and the particular sound you are looking for.


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> I only have 4 tubes, and use an amperex 7308 pretty much exclusively, but ncu is right, by far the biggest upgrade was my Asgard 2. I was a little disappointed with the t1 no matter which tube I used with my hd580's, but when I hooked up the Asgard 2, I was like OK, now we're talking! After adding the amp, I could honestly live with any of my tubes, including the electro harmonix it came with. That being said, I still want to try a Dario lol


 
 Asgard 2 has been on my radar and so has the Magni 2 Uber. Compared to the stock T1 amp, how would you say it changed the sound? I read from some people that Asgard 2 has a warm sound signature compared to the Magni, which makes me nervous because when people hear warm, I often hear lack of detail.


----------



## SirMarc

Its also the headphones we're using. Mine are 300 ohms and I don't think the little amp in the t1 was up to the task. Adding a more powerful amp brought them to life. In our comparisons we should be mentioning what headphones we're using and their impedance


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Alright, well if you do some reading though this thread almost everyone with a separate amp available or purchased one disagrees with you.  Do you not see how illogical it is to spend hundreds of dollars on tubes (or even $80) when you are using a PCB that probably has $5 max in components on it to amplify that sound?  It is like having a ZL1 427 engine and using the exhaust system off a Chevy Cavalier (if it was possible that the manifold would match, haha).
  
  
  
 I was going through the thread looking for my capacitor posts I made when I did the mods and I came across this, which I thought some users who weren't around then may want to see (not sure if all the links still work):
  


purpeltendire said:


> Recreated Salvatore's links post, nothing about it was an 'original' post so to speak. It was just a handy place for a lot of links, so I felt comfortable copying it. If this is a problem, someone let me know.
> 
> *General Aune T1 Info: *
> 
> ...


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> Asgard 2 has been on my radar and so has the Magni 2 Uber. Compared to the stock T1 amp, how would you say it changed the sound? I read from some people that Asgard 2 has a warm sound signature compared to the Magni, which makes me nervous because when people hear warm, I often hear lack of detail.
> The reason I brought up headphone impedance earlier though, is because I plugged in a pair of m50's, which are 32 ohm, I got as a gift and the difference isn't as extreme.


I would say the Asgard 2 has a touch of warmth. From what you've said you like, I believe the Asgard 2 and gold lion would make you a happy man. The sound improvement? Fuller more lush midrange, deeper, more controlled bass, slightly more detail in the highs, wider and deeper soundstage.


----------



## Rozenberg

ncsuzoso said:


> It already has a Burr-Brown in it, what were you thinking about replacing it with?  I think there is only one opamp and that means it is a Dual DIP.  Maybe try a Muse01 or Muse02?  I personally like the Muse01 better than the 02, but others prefer it the other way.  As far as I know nobody has ever tried it, or at least been successful and told us about it haha.  I never bothered even thinking about it because the DAC part of the T1 is by far the strongest part of the unit.  I am assuming you have already upgraded the caps.
> 
> If you are going to do it, what would be REALLY nice is if you put an opamp socket in there, but I'm not sure how you would go about doing that since that is a surface mount component, but maybe it is possible? lol


 
  
 I dunno, just wanted to try.
 I've tried the amp section only twice, 1st with my bluray player playing CD and 2nd with my X3.
 For some reason using the amp section gave me headache, but not when the T1 is used wholefully as DAC/amp. So I was thinking, was it that bad?
 Either way I currently have my T1 connected to Matrix M-Stage which has 2 inputs so everything's good for now.
  
 Btw I haven't opened my T1 yet, but might do it when I already have another backup DAC.
 Though if it's kinda pointless to tinker with the amp, then I guess I'll just be happy with what I have right now


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> Alright, well if you do some reading though this thread almost everyone with a separate amp available or purchased one disagrees with you.  Do you not see how illogical it is to spend hundreds of dollars on tubes (or even $80) when you are using a PCB that probably has $5 max in components on it to amplify that sound?  It is like having a ZL1 427 engine and using the exhaust system off a Chevy Cavalier (if it was possible that the manifold would match, haha).


 
  
 There is a correlation between cost and sound quality but spending a bunch on an amp is not an absolute formula for success. Same goes for buying a tube. The nice thing about tubes is that the barrier to entry is much lower. My experience is that some amps sound worse than the T1 amp with my headphones, some sound better, some make very little to no difference. The amp that has made the most significant change to the sound that I've heard is the Sennheiser HDVD 800. This change was really cool because it made the soundstage huge, but it wasn't necessarily a better sound overall, for my headphones. I am one hundred percent convinced buying an amp is a worthwhile investment. I just disagree with the blanket assertion that upgrading the amp is always a bigger improvement than upgrading the tube. That has not been the case in my experience.


----------



## SirMarc

That was weird, part if my post ended up in Joe's quote lol. Here's the rest.
The reason I brought up headphone impedance earlier though, is because I plugged in a pair of m50's, which are 32 ohm, I got as a gift and the difference isn't as extreme.


----------



## SirMarc

I think moral of the story is, with high impedance cans, you get great benefits from upgrading the amp. With low impedance cans the gains are more modest ...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

joeq70 said:


> There is a correlation between cost and sound quality but spending a bunch on an amp is not an absolute formula for success. Same goes for buying a tube. The nice thing about tubes is that the barrier to entry is much lower. My experience is that some amps sound worse than the T1 amp with my headphones, some sound better, some make very little to no difference. The amp that has made the most significant change to the sound that I've heard is the Sennheiser HDVD 800. This change was really cool because it made the soundstage huge, but it wasn't necessarily a better sound overall, for my headphones. I am one hundred percent convinced buying an amp is a worthwhile investment. I just disagree with the blanket assertion that upgrading the amp is always a bigger improvement than upgrading the tube. That has not been the case in my experience.


 
  
 Nobody said not to upgrade the tube or spend a bunch on an amp.  I am talking about spending the exact same amount as a single Miniwatt for an amp and a tube. 
  
 The average selling cost I have seen for quality Miniwatts are around $90-$120 or more.  You can buy a perfectly matched GE Smokie for $10-$15 and you can get the Magni 1 for $95 shipped or the Magni 2 for $115 shipped (new).  Not to mention there are other great affordable amps that are below the $100 mark (JDSLabs CmoyBB - $59.99).
  
 I wish when I was a new owner of the T1 someone had told me after I was done upgrading the caps to put an affordable amp next on my list instead of spending $200-$300 on various tubes before coming around to it.
  
 BTW, unless we all own the same pair of headphones, there is no "end game" anything.  Everyone is going to prefer different tube sounds/different amps based on their headphones, we established this a few pages back in regards to the Gold Lion comments.  I'm not saying the Magni and GE Smokie is the best combination for every setup, I am using it as an example as to why I think spending at or above $100 on a tube while using the stock amp (which I upgraded the caps on btw) just seems silly.  Yes the stock amp is very capable for what it costs, but when you are throwing that kind of money around for a tube, I think you should keep in mind what is amplifying that tube.
  
  
  
 Just did a search on the JDSLabs CmoyBB in the thread to see if anyone had tried it and look who has:
  


hansotek said:


> There's a huge difference between getting sufficient volume out of a headphone and fulfilling the sonic potential of a headphone.
> 
> I found the HD650 to be somewhat disappointing, veiled, loose and aenemic out of the Aune T1, as well. Running the T1's DAC out into a JDS labs 2x9V CMOY produced a sort of magic in the low mids, which was quite special.
> 
> ...


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> I'm not saying the Magni and GE Smokie is the best combination for every setup, I am using it as an example as to why I think spending at or above $100 on a tube while using the stock amp (which I upgraded btw) just seems silly.  Yes the stock amp is very capable for what it costs, but when you are throwing that kind of money around for a tube, I think you should keep in mind what is amplifying that tube.


 
 I'm not trying to write off your experience. I hear what you are saying. Another factor to consider is we have heard different things. I've never heard GE smokies or the Magni. I've heard a lot of headphones,  but I have not heard yours, or any Soundmagic headphone, for that matter. My only point is that spending a $100 on a tube and keeping the $8 amp is not the least bit silly in some cases. It is the better decision in some cases.


----------



## Hansotek

ncsuzoso said:


> rozenberg said:
> 
> 
> > So guys, uh.... I was thinking, is it possible to solder new opamp to the T1 amp section?
> ...



I'm not saying the amp changes, I'm saying the net sound of the DAC and amp together sound similar to the other combo.


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> I only have 4 tubes, and use an amperex 7308 pretty much exclusively, but ncu is right, by far the biggest upgrade was my Asgard 2. I was a little disappointed with the t1 no matter which tube I used with my hd580's, but when I hooked up the Asgard 2, I was like OK, now we're talking! After adding the amp, I could honestly live with any of my tubes, including the electro harmonix it came with. That being said, I still want to try a Dario lol


 
 That has been my experience too, with the exception of this specific tube. I've never been a fan of the T1's amp section. For some reason the Dario creates this odd synergy with this crappy little $8 CMOY and the HE500s.
  
 Let me be absolutely clear: I ALMOST DIDN'T EVEN PLUG IN TO THE T1's AMP SECTION DURING TESTS. That is how little I think of the amp section. I only tried it because I figured somebody on this thread would ask about it. And I was absolutely FLOORED by what I heard. It was almost identical in sound to my reference setup. I must have switched back and forth 20 times. I never expected that tube to make such an impact on the Aune combo. For whatever reason, it just works.
  
 Again, a notable caveat: I've only had time to sample with the HE500, thus far. So keep your pants on! Headphones play a big role in synergy too. I will report back when I try some more HPs with it.


----------



## mikoss

My experience is the Miniwatt + T1 at 0db gain with cap upgrade is very detailed, with nice tonal balance and great imaging. 

I have found better amps will bring out more bass, and more power... To me it almost comes down to presentation. I don't feel that the T1's amp is lacking enough to warrant an external amp, with HD-650s. 

Also, I am sorry but I found the GE Smokies I bought NOS sound crappy with the HD-650. They're laid back as it is, but I just got a murky, wooly sound compared to Amperex Holland tubes. FWIW there are people who also say the Russian tubes sound better than Miniwatts, and I can believe they do with their setup... I personally found them intolerable.


----------



## Hansotek

Wow. Quick first impression with the Dario/Aune and the Beyerdynamic T1 on the 3 setups:
  
 Very similar overall to my HE500 impressions. The Aune's amp displays a little more sibilance than the other setups, but the Dario really, really smooths it out compared to other tubes I've tried. HA-160 is the most energetic sounding, but the Aune isn't far behind. Again, they sound very similar with this tube somehow. The Aune>Lyr sounds the most analog, just as before... music just flows from it effortlessly. The Burson is still my favorite for the cleanliness and punch, but the sound isn't that much different.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> Considering the tube plays zero role in the amp you should get the exact same results using the stock tube or using the Line In and taking the DAC/Tube Buffer completely out of the equation.  If what you are saying was true, I would own a lot of stock in Aune Audio (assuming they are a public company) if they could design an amp they sell for $8 that could compete with amps that cost 50-80x more.  I have tried two different amps with the T1 and the improvements with both are far beyond what any ultra high end tube can offer vs. a solid NOS tube.


 
 I don't understand what you mean... the tubes change the sound of the amp like an eq... I've found they completely transform the ability of the amp to produce quality sounding music, or garbage. 
  
 It's like the tubes in my WA2... it sounds like garbage with crappy tubes, and sounds better with other tubes... the amp's sound signature is based on which tubes are in it.
  
 The power output of the amp and distortion are probably set in stone (at least for the T1), but they were measured by someone in this forum and found to be decent...


----------



## Hansotek

hansotek said:


> Wow. Quick first impression with the Dario/Aune and the Beyerdynamic T1 on the 3 setups:
> 
> Very similar overall to my HE500 impressions. The Aune's amp displays a little more sibilance than the other setups, but the Dario really, really smooths it out compared to other tubes I've tried. HA-160 is the most energetic sounding, but the Aune isn't far behind. Again, they sound very similar with this tube somehow. The Aune>Lyr sounds the most analog, just as before... music just flows from it effortlessly. The Burson is still my favorite for the cleanliness and punch, but the sound isn't that much different.


 
  
 Beyer T1 impressions update: the reference Burson/ODAC setup definitely starts pulling ahead of the Dario/Aune when I turn up the volume past normal listening levels. The clarity/separation/detail difference definitely comes into play and the bass starts to lose body as the headphone demands more power. The Aune's $8 CMOY just can't keep up. Back at normal listening levels, it's much closer.


----------



## SirMarc

Slightly off topic, and maybe wrong thread lol, but I just recently had my vintage thorens td 145 refurbished and properly set up by a turntable guru. Plugged into my vintage dynaco integrated amp with my hd580's, it sounds awesome. I haven't listened to my t1-Asgard 2 set up in a while. If any of you have an old Turntable collecting dust in the attic, get it out, clean it up and give it a listen with your headphones, you'll thank me later...


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> Slightly off topic, and maybe wrong thread lol, but I just recently had my vintage thorens td 145 refurbished and properly set up by a turntable guru. Plugged into my vintage dynaco integrated amp with my hd580's, it sounds awesome. I haven't listened to my t1-Asgard 2 set up in a while. If any of you have an old Turntable collecting dust in the attic, get it out, clean it up and give it a listen with your headphones, you'll thank me later...



I guess Schiit makes a phono preamp called the Mani now, if you want to get more use out of that Asgard...

Are you still using the Audio Technica cartridge? How did that work out? Or did you get that old Blue Point one fixed?


----------



## SirMarc

The at 440mla sounds really good. I wish I could get the Mani, would like to hear how the Asgard sounds with vinyl, but I have some hearing loss in my right ear and I need a balance knob. Did you get the Turntable yet?


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> The at 440mla sounds really good. I wish I could get the Mani, would like to hear how the Asgard sounds with vinyl, but I have some hearing loss in my right ear and I need a balance knob. Did you get the Turntable yet?



Kinda forgot about it until your post a few minutes ago. Now it's on my mind...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> I don't understand what you mean... the tubes change the sound of the amp like an eq... I've found they completely transform the ability of the amp to produce quality sounding music, or garbage.
> 
> It's like the tubes in my WA2... it sounds like garbage with crappy tubes, and sounds better with other tubes... the amp's sound signature is based on which tubes are in it.
> 
> The power output of the amp and distortion are probably set in stone (at least for the T1), but they were measured by someone in this forum and found to be decent...


 
  
 That is changing the sound of the DAC output signal, not the actual amp operation.  I don't see how that is confusing at all.
  
 The amp is going to operate completely the same with the stock tube or with a CCa pinched waist, it makes no difference.  Of course the sound that comes out will be much different, but amps are pretty basic in what they do and the DAC doesn't affect that in any shape or form.
  
 If you want I can scan in some pages of my old EE200 book on amplifiers, it is a mixture of math and art.
  


mikoss said:


> Also, I am sorry but I found the GE Smokies I bought NOS sound crappy with the HD-650. They're laid back as it is, but I just got a murky, wooly sound compared to Amperex Holland tubes. FWIW there are people who also say the Russian tubes sound better than Miniwatts, and I can believe they do with their setup... I personally found them intolerable.


 
  
 I already posted earlier that it was an example of an affordable tube ($10-$15) that sounds very good for the money for the majority of users.  Of course there will be combos that people would rather use something like a JAN Philips (another affordable one).  Why are you bring up Amperex Holland tubes in comparison to a $10 tube?  Of course the Amperex is going to sound better all around, it cost 5 to 6 times more at least for a reason.


----------



## mikoss

> The amp is going to operate completely the same with the stock tube or with a CCa pinched waist, it makes no difference.
> 
> Of course the sound that comes out will be much different, but amps are pretty basic in what they do and the DAC doesn't affect that in any shape or form.
> 
> Considering the tube plays zero role in the amp you should get the exact same results using the stock tube or using the Line In and taking the DAC/Tube Buffer completely out of the equation.


 
  
 I think we're on the same page... what I don't understand is what you're trying to tell the reviewer. He said the amp sounded great with a different tube, and we both agreed the tubes affect the quality of sound coming out of the amp. The amp's properties haven't improved, it has always been capable of producing great sounding music, if the input is great sounding.
  
 At the end of the day, the tube has improved the sound quality, which is what the review said. It also said the sound quality was improved enough that the T1's stock amp sounded very good and almost on par with more expensive amps, which I is what I have also found to be the case. I would not say this is the case using the stock tube, which is what I'm lead to believe from what you posted... just want to clarify for anyone who owns the T1 and wants to improve their sound without spending a lot of cash. $100 is really not that much to get an improvement that almost puts the T1 subjectively on par with $500 amps. I think that is a fair statement, no?
  
 Also, Amperex Holland tubes do not cost 5-6 times as much, that is a hilarious statement. I recently purchased 6 A-frame Holland 6DJ8 PQ tubes for $72. They very regularly sell for less than $20 each. eg:
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/6-TEKTRONIX-CHECKED-AMPEREX-HOLLAND-A-FRAME-6DJ8-ECC88-TUBES-TEST-STRONG-/191506730797
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/6-AMPEREX-HOLLAND-O-GETTER-6DJ8-ECC88-TUBES-TEST-STRONG/191506732407


----------



## joeq70

The last couple pages of discussion have been a bit convoluted and silly. The argument appears to essentially be this---what is the better upgrade for the money--about $100 for a tube or about a $100 for an amp. The answer to this question is simple: it depends. Also, we need to approach the question differently so our discussion is more useful for the people out there that look to this thread for advice.
  
  In a perfect world, you could listen to a couple dozen different NOS tubes and pick the one that sounds the best. In a perfect world, after finding your favorite tube, you could A/B the stock amp with dozens of different other amps ranging in value from $100 to infinity. Since we all generally have limited disposable income, we all try to figure out the shortest point between where we are with our setup where we want to be.Let's try to make maximizing the T1's potential as easy and inexpensive as possible.
  
 1) First, the most important factor in this discussion: variables. There are so many variables---including different headphones, different ears, different years production between otherwise similar tubes. It all makes a difference. 
  
 2) The tubes: There are a handful of tubes that seem to be consistently great performers for most who try them. These include the Amperex 7308 and Miniwatt E188CC that's been recently discussed, and others. Some of these tubes synergize so well with the headphones used and the stock T1 amp that a further upgrade of the amp is not immediately necessary. 
  
 3) Upgrading the amp: In some cases, whether it be because of the specific headphones chosen or because of the tube chosen or a combination thereof, upgrading the amp to the T1 will yield greater improvement than upgrading the tube, and in such cases an amp upgrade should be the first priority. Choosing an amp, like a tube, can be tricky business, however, because all amps will do something to the sound to some extent. Some amps are clinical, some warm, some neutral, etc. Being able to identify what characteristics make a particular amp sound good within your setup is crucial in helping people decide which upgrade to spring for first.
  
 4) In conclusion, if you want to take the relatively cheap Aune T1 and make it sound rather expensive and high end, then you need to take the time to figure out both the ideal tube and the ideal amp pairing for your particular headphones. *One way to make the process easier for people is for those of us who have found success with their setup to state the following:*
  
*a) The headphone(s) used and whether you perceive them to be relatively warm, neutral, detailed, etc.*
*b) The tube used and what effect it has on the sound when used with the stock T1 amp*
*c)  The external amp used, if applicable, and how that amp changed the sound compared to when using the stock amp. If only the stock T1 amp is used, state your preferred gain setting.*


----------



## SirMarc

Testing back and forth with my 32 ohm headphones,there is a small difference going through the Asgard 2, but a pretty substantial difference with my 300 ohm headphones. There seems to be more of a benefit rolling tubes with low impedance headphones. I don't think the amp in the t1 has enough current to really drive higher impedance headphones to their best. So moral of the story is you're probably OK just tube rolling if you have low impedance headphones, but if your phones are high impedance you'll definitely benefit from a higher quality more powerful amp


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Testing back and forth with my 32 ohm headphones,there is a small difference going through the Asgard 2, but a pretty substantial difference with my 300 ohm headphones. There seems to be more of a benefit rolling tubes with low impedance headphones. I don't think the amp in the t1 has enough current to really drive higher impedance headphones to their best. So moral of the story is you're probably OK just tube rolling if you have low impedance headphones, but if your phones are high impedance you'll definitely benefit from a higher quality more powerful amp


 
 It's a fact that higher impedance phones and inefficient phones need more juice from an amp. But there is more to the story than that. 
  
  
 Anyway, I'll start things off taking my own advice.
  
 a) My headphones are Symphones Magnum V4s. They are 32 ohms and are driven pretty easily. They are a detailed and punchy sounding headphone with forward mids. Think Grado but much clearer and more intimate.
  
 b) My favorite tube is the Philips Miniwatt E188CC. I tend to like tubes that have forwards mids because it accentuates the strengths of my headphones. The Miniwatt has just enough of the mids I like and is superior in every other respect to the other tubes I've used. Love it.
  
 c) I use the stock amp but I've used many other amps. The stock amp is pretty neutral. I enjoy turning the gain off because it gives me more volume play and seems to improve dynamics for my headphones. Some higher priced amps I tried increased the soundstage and clarity. Some amps add just a bit extra punch to the bass which is nice. I haven't found an amp yet that is priced competitively enough and offers enough benefit to warrant a purchase. I am interested in trying some Schitt stuff, though. I'll have a chance to hear some in March.


----------



## Koolpep

mikoss said:


> I think we're on the same page... what I don't understand is what you're trying to tell the reviewer. He said the amp sounded great with a different tube, and we both agreed the tubes affect the quality of sound coming out of the amp. The amp's properties haven't improved, it has always been capable of producing great sounding music, if the input is great sounding.
> 
> At the end of the day, the tube has improved the sound quality, which is what the review said. It also said the sound quality was improved enough that the T1's stock amp sounded very good and almost on par with more expensive amps, which I is what I have also found to be the case. I would not say this is the case using the stock tube, which is what I'm lead to believe from what you posted... just want to clarify for anyone who owns the T1 and wants to improve their sound without spending a lot of cash. $100 is really not that much to get an improvement that almost puts the T1 subjectively on par with $500 amps. I think that is a fair statement, no?
> 
> ...




T1 mk2 owner here. I think the previous poster meant that the AMP part of the T1 does not benefit from a tube change at all. If you use the DAC part then yes. Unlike real tube amps, the T1 is a Solid State Amp and a Tube DAC. So if you use the line out into the T1 and only use the amp, no tube will ever change the sound, you have to use the T1 as an amp/DAC to have the benefit of tube rolling. So no matter which tube is in the T1 the amp never changes and won't make the T1 a better amp.

I use the T1 as dac/amp with a gold lion tube and really think it can compete with more expensive gear. It has a 1000mw amp into 16 ohms (or even 32, not sure anymore) and could drive my T90 surprisingly well.

Cheers,
K


----------



## NCSUZoSo

No that is not what I was saying in the slightest and some of that (regarding using line out) is wrong.
  
 What I am saying is very simple.  An amplifier simply boosts an electric current (fundamentally), meaning you put sound x in the amp, you get sound x out of the amp, just it is now audible (boosted).  Amplifiers are designed to have the most linear response possible inside their budget/design.
  
 According to a few people in the thread, you put a specific x in, then you suddenly get sound y out of the amp.  If this is true it only solidifies my concerns about the amp.  This would mean it is favoring (boosting) certain bands in the spectrum or nowhere near linear/flat.  That would make rolling tubes insanely difficult to "review" because the EQ curve on the T1 is essentially the tube, so if the amp favors certain bands of the curve, that puts in yet another variable (besides the exact tube and headphones used).
  
 You can call this "synergy" if you'd like.


 (Audio Bands: http://bobbyowsinski.blogspot.com/2012/06/description-of-audio-frequency-bands.html)
  

  
  
  


joeq70 said:


> The argument appears to essentially be this---what is the better upgrade for the money--about $100 for a tube or about a $100 for an amp.


 
  
 How can you actually read what I said and still come to that conclusion??  I wasn't talking about an amp vs. a tube, I said:
  


ncsuzoso said:


> Nobody said not to upgrade the tube or spend a bunch on an amp.  I am talking about *spending the exact same amount as a single Miniwatt for an amp AND a tube.*


 
  
  



mikoss said:


> Also, Amperex Holland tubes do not cost 5-6 times as much, that is a hilarious statement. I recently purchased 6 A-frame Holland 6DJ8 PQ tubes for $72. They very regularly sell for less than $20 each. eg:
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/6-TEKTRONIX-CHECKED-AMPEREX-HOLLAND-A-FRAME-6DJ8-ECC88-TUBES-TEST-STRONG-/191506730797
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/6-AMPEREX-HOLLAND-O-GETTER-6DJ8-ECC88-TUBES-TEST-STRONG/191506732407


 
  
 I assumed you were talking about Amperex Holland 6922/E88CC tubes, not 6DJ8/ECC88's.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> I assumed you were talking about Amperex Holland 6922/E88CC tubes, not 6DJ8/ECC88's.


 
 No worries 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Just comparing Amperex 6DJ8's to GE Smokie's, which are also 6DJ8's.
  
 Some of those prices also include 6922 PQ tubes... the ones I bought had 3 ECC88's and 3 6922 PQ's, all testing 120/120 which is NOS:
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/311269502449


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> One thing is for sure the Magni 2 is worth every penny to pair with the T1,* instead of buying another $100 tube (lol), you guys should definitely consider the Magni, I wish I had earlier*. Just think about it, we are putting so much money into the tubes we roll with the T1, yet we are using an $8 amp to send the signal to our headphones.  When Aune finally confirmed that it is literally $8 to replace, I was kind of blown away by that.  Our T1s are such great DACs, but have such a mediocre (at best) amplifier.  If you have ANYTHING else you can amplify the signal with using the line out you need to do it and I would bet almost anything else is going to sound better.


 
  


ncsuzoso said:


> I don't doubt the Miniwatt is a great tube, I already knew that,* but telling people to spend the cash on a $90-$120 tube and expect the same improvement of a $80-$100 amp upgrade with a $20 NOS tube like the GE Smokie is misleading at best.*


 
  


ncsuzoso said:


> *Do you not see how illogical it is to spend hundreds of dollars on tubes (or even $80) when you are using a PCB that probably has $5 max in components on it to amplify that sound?  *It is like having a ZL1 427 engine and using the exhaust system off a Chevy Cavalier (if it was possible that the manifold would match, haha).


 
  


ncsuzoso said:


> I am talking about spending the exact same amount as a single Miniwatt for an amp and a tube.


 
  


ncsuzoso said:


> How can you actually read what I said and still come to that conclusion??


 
  
 How couldn't I come to that conclusion? Look above at the words you wrote. Just because you have a cheap tube that you also recommend to people doesn't change the fact that you advise people to invest more in an amp than a tube. If you read the above quotations from you, you said unequivocally to allocate more money for an amp and less for a tube. Your insistence to spend a little money on a NOS tube (the GE Smokie) doesn't change the fact that you argued that the amp is the more important upgrade ($-wise). My only point is that upgrading the amp first or tossing more money into it than the tube might be a good move in your experience, but it isn't the best move in everyone's experience. Also, have you considered that not everyone will like the GE Smokie? The whole point of my post on page 448 was give a balanced overview on what to consider if you only have money to upgrade a little at a time.


----------



## SirMarc

I'm sorry, but I might have to side with ncs on this one, a better amp is a better amp after all. I think most, if not all of us will end up with a better amp eventually anyway. Get an amp first, if you can, especially if you have high impedance cans, then start tube rolling.


----------



## mikoss

I'm also confused (still), but just wanted to say it's possible to roll in premium tubes to the T1 and get a vast improvement in sound. As someone who was already purchased a WA2 plus tubes costing over $1500 together, and the WA7 + tube power supply + NOS tubes for over $1300 all-in... I can safely say that I often just plug in to the T1 with a nice tube and really enjoy it.
  
 Having said that, I also wholeheartedly recommend the Schiit Modi as a very capable SS DAC... it is on par with the T1 and some of the premium tubes, however it doesn't have the same warmth as using tubes... but for the money it's well worth it.
  
 Also, I personally don't feel the need for an external amp with my HD-650's and the T1... I did buy the other amps just to check them out, and they definitely have their strong points, but I don't find them necessary to enjoy premium tubes.
  
  
 I also enjoy the exchanges we're having, just hope people don't take things personally


----------



## SirMarc

mikoss said:


> I'm also confused (still), but just wanted to say it's possible to roll in premium tubes to the T1 and get a vast improvement in sound. As someone who was already purchased a WA2 plus tubes costing over $1500 together, and the WA7 + tube power supply + NOS tubes for over $1300 all-in... I can safely say that I often just plug in to the T1 with a nice tube and really enjoy it.
> 
> Having said that, I also wholeheartedly recommend the Schiit Modi as a very capable SS DAC... it is on par with the T1 and some of the premium tubes, however it doesn't have the same warmth as using tubes... but for the money it's well worth it.
> 
> ...


I have hd580's, and I was disappointed with the t1 amp. Sounded very thin to me even with an amperex 7308. As soon as I hooked up the Asgard 2, I got the full bodied midrange and bottom end punch I was missing with the t1 amp. I also have m50's that still sound better with the Asgard 2, but the difference is not as extreme but still worth the uprade. To each his own I guess...


----------



## SirMarc

For an all in one package, the t1 is impressive for the money, but the dac is the star of the show here. A buddy of mine has a bifrost, and it sounds awesome, but there's something about the synergy of my t1, 7308 and Asgard 2 combo that I love. I won't be getting the bifrost like I thought...
Edit: to clarify he has a bifrost and an Asgard 2. I was going to upgrade to a bifrost, but after listening to his rig with my 580's I don't think I will...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

joeq70 said:


> How couldn't I come to that conclusion? Look above at the words you wrote. Just because you have a cheap tube that you also recommend to people doesn't change the fact that you advise people to invest more in an amp than a tube. If you read the above quotations from you, you said unequivocally to allocate more money for an amp and less for a tube. Your insistence to spend a little money on a NOS tube (the GE Smokie) doesn't change the fact that you argued that the amp is the more important upgrade ($-wise). My only point is that upgrading the amp first or tossing more money into it than the tube might be a good move in your experience, but it isn't the best move in everyone's experience. Also, have you considered that not everyone will like the GE Smokie? The whole point of my post on page 448 was give a balanced overview on what to consider if you only have money to upgrade a little at a time.


 
  
 A cheap tube?
  
 Since when are Siemens CCa considered cheap tubes?
  

  
 Did you miss this?
  


ncsuzoso said:


> I already posted earlier that it was *an example of an affordable tube* ($10-$15) that sounds very good for the money for the majority of users.  Of course there will be combos that people would rather use something like a JAN Philips (another affordable one).


 
  
  
 My point was not to spend $100 on a tube and use an $8 amp.  For the sake of the argument I listed a tube/amp combo that was the EXACT same cost as a single Miniwatt. 
  
 Yet somehow you continued to keep going back to "tube vs. amp", even after I told you how to buy both for the same cost as a single tube...  Do you think I am running a GE Smokie 24/7 just because I said it impresses me when doing comparisons for what it costs?  There are plenty of others through this thread that praise the Smokie (it's why I got one in the first place).  Only recently have there been so many users putting their noses up at anything under $70.


----------



## mikoss

sirmarc said:


> I have hd580's, and I was disappointed with the t1 amp. Sounded very thin to me even with an amperex 7308. As soon as I hooked up the Asgard 2, I got the full bodied midrange and bottom end punch I was missing with the t1 amp. I also have m50's that still sound better with the Asgard 2, but the difference is not as extreme but still worth the uprade. To each his own I guess...


 
 I also found my HD-558's sounded thin/bright with the T1... I enjoyed playing around with different tubes, but ultimately, never found anything as satisfying as the experience I now have with my 650's. Also didn't enjoy the T1 with HE-500's as much as some of the other people who posted impressions here.


----------



## SirMarc

I wonder if its the added bass of the 650's? And if you're not aware, the 580's are essentially the same as 600's, the only difference is the metal grills.


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> My point was not to spend $100 on a tube and use an $8 amp.


 
 I know that's your point. I disagree with your point. But that's okay. We're all gonna be okay!


----------



## Hansotek

mikoss said:


> sirmarc said:
> 
> 
> > I have hd580's, and I was disappointed with the t1 amp. Sounded very thin to me even with an amperex 7308. As soon as I hooked up the Asgard 2, I got the full bodied midrange and bottom end punch I was missing with the t1 amp. I also have m50's that still sound better with the Asgard 2, but the difference is not as extreme but still worth the uprade. To each his own I guess...
> ...



I'll have to try the HD650s with the new tube tomorrow. I've never liked them with the T1, but I'm 2 for 2 with the miniwatt so far. All the ingredients for success are there - warm, punchy, spacious and detailed. Did you try the 650s with the miniwatt before & after the cap upgrade? Or just after?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

The only part of my post earlier that should matter to anyone to disagree or agree with is this:
  


ncsuzoso said:


> An amplifier simply boosts an electric current (fundamentally), meaning you put sound x in the amp, you get sound x out of the amp, just it is now audible (boosted).  Amplifiers are designed to have the most linear response possible inside their budget/design.
> According to a few people in the thread, you put a specific x in, then you suddenly get sound y out of the amp.  If this is true it only solidifies my concerns about the amp.  This would mean it is favoring (boosting) certain bands in the spectrum or nowhere near linear/flat.  That would make rolling tubes insanely difficult to "review" because the EQ curve on the T1 is essentially the tube, so if the amp favors certain bands of the curve, that puts in yet another variable (besides the exact tube and headphones used).
> 
> You can call this "synergy" if you'd like.


----------



## penmarker

Oh my god Jesus Christ nobody cares.


----------



## Koolpep

ncsuzoso said:


> The only part of my post earlier that should matter to anyone to disagree or agree with is this:




In theory all amps should sound the same, in reality there is head-fi.

and guess what, there is one more variable. Source. My experience is that a lot of things have very tiny differences that our sonic memory then blows out of proportion as blind tests show.

However, amps do color the sound, everyone who tried more than one knows that or at least they make my headphones sound different, whichever way you want to put it, DACs sound differently too...should they? No. But they do.


----------



## mikoss

hansotek said:


> I'll have to try the HD650s with the new tube tomorrow. I've never liked them with the T1, but I'm 2 for 2 with the miniwatt so far. All the ingredients for success are there - warm, punchy, spacious and detailed. Did you try the 650s with the miniwatt before & after the cap upgrade? Or just after?


 
 Before and after - I actually thought the Miniwatt sounded almost identical to the Amperex 7308 I had before the cap upgrade. After the upgrade, I noticed the top end and imaging of the Miniwatt were superior to the 7308, then after listening closer, I noticed the bass and soundstaging were better... they were made side by side at the same factory, however I haven't yet found an Amperex branded 7308 that sounds better to me than the best Miniwatt I own.
  
 I am on the search for something though and I will post impressions as I get to know the tubes intimately.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

koolpep said:


> In theory all amps should sound the same, in reality there is head-fi.
> 
> and guess what, there is one more variable. Source. My experience is that a lot of things have very tiny differences that our sonic memory then blows out of proportion as blind tests show.
> 
> However, amps do color the sound, everyone who tried more than one knows that or at least they make my headphones sound different, whichever way you want to put it, DACs sound differently too...should they? No. But they do.


 
  
 I agree with all of that, but the thing here is we are all using the same amplifier in regards to the stock amp and only the signal it receives differs.
  
 Which is why I think it must favor certain bands in terms of amplification if a tube can make such a dramatic difference to a person vs. another high end tube.  This is why I asked the user to do testing with other tubes and without the DAC to confirm it.


----------



## SirMarc

mikoss said:


> Before and after - I actually thought the Miniwatt sounded almost identical to the Amperex 7308 I had before the cap upgrade. After the upgrade, I noticed the top end and imaging of the Miniwatt were superior to the 7308, then after listening closer, I noticed the bass and soundstaging were better... they were made side by side at the same factory, however I haven't yet found an Amperex branded 7308 that sounds better than the best Miniwatt I own.


Did you give the amperexes time to burn in? I found they get noticeably better with some hours on them. Pretty much everything you just said about the miniwatts I experienced with the amperex after maybe 20-50 hours. Mine are American JAN from 1966 if that matters


----------



## mikoss

sirmarc said:


> Did you give the amperexes time to burn in? I found they get noticeably better with some hours on them. Pretty much everything you just said about the miniwatts I experienced with the amperex after maybe 20-50 hours


 
 Yes, I definitely let tubes burn in as I am a huge believer in burn in, especially of tubes.
  
 I actually really enjoy it when tubes sound dull or tonally off balance (exaggerated frequencies) at first listen/first 20 hours... this is magic to me because then I'm almost certain the tube is truly NOS.
  
 I really wish the 7308's sounded as good as the Miniwatts, but I have noticed differences mainly in the upper extension, bass, and imaging. I bought a bunch more 7308s, so I'll see how they compare and post honest impressions as well.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Well bad news, my Siemens CCa isn't giving any sound output tonight (just switched over from loudspeakers), no glow is emitting from the filaments...
  
 So looks like I'll be sending it back  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Good thing I have my other Siemens (which works great, as always), but it still sucks because I was just starting to really like the CCa.  One other upside is it could have done this outside the return window and I'd just be stuck with a rare piece of glass to put on a shelf.


----------



## SirMarc

Think I'm done, I have the eh 6922, a gold lion and 2 amperex 7308's. All I use is my amperex and I'm happy with it. I have a spare for if it goes bad, so hopefully I'm covered for 20,000 hours. I've been dumping money into my turntable rig, and quite frankly it kicks the digital rigs ass lol, so my moneys going there for a while


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> Well bad news, my Siemens CCa isn't giving any sound output tonight (just switched over from loudspeakers), no glow is emitting from the filaments...
> 
> So looks like I'll be sending it back
> 
> ...


 
 That sucks but I guess it's a blessing that you can send it back under return.
  
 I was watching and bidding on a bunch of CCa's tonight and I'm sad to say I just couldn't keep pushing the limit... I would really like to eventually hear these tubes.
 Telefunken CCa's: $245 for a pair ($123/tube on two separate auctions)
 Siemens grey shield CCa's: $246 for a pair ($123/tube on two separate auctions)
 Valvo yellow CCa's: $251 for four ($63/tube)
 Siemens silver shield CCa's: $241 for four ($60/tube)


----------



## joeq70

mikoss said:


> That sucks but I guess it's a blessing that you can send it back under return.
> 
> I was watching and bidding on a bunch of CCa's tonight and I'm sad to say I just couldn't keep pushing the limit... I would really like to eventually hear these tubes.
> Telefunken CCa's: $245 for a pair ($123/tube on two separate auctions)
> ...



It'd be nice if more sellers sold singles.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> That sucks but I guess it's a blessing that you can send it back under return.
> 
> I was watching and bidding on a bunch of CCa's tonight and I'm sad to say I just couldn't keep pushing the limit... I would really like to eventually hear these tubes.
> Telefunken CCa's: $245 for a pair ($123/tube on two separate auctions)
> ...


 
  
 Yea that sounds like normal prices for pro tested CCa's.
  
 He has actually already refunded me and told me not to worry about sending back the dead tube.  It is nice to deal with sellers on Ebay that are not only fair, but put your interest above profit.
  
 So I will get to have an ultra rare tube to put somewhere at least.  Do they make tube cases I can put on a shelf?


----------



## mikoss

joeq70 said:


> It'd be nice if more sellers sold singles.


 
 I find the problem with people who do sell singles is that they want 3x the price of pairs


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> I find the problem with people who do sell singles is that they want 3x the price of pairs


 
  
 I'd offer to go in together on a pair, but during my short time with the CCa, it was too close to my current one to get another.
  
 Any suggestions on a tube with a much different flavor? 
  
 When these are the main tubes I will roll:
  
 1969 Siemens 6922
 1966 GE Smokie
 USA Amperex 6922
 Tesla ECC88
  
 I was thinking about these three: Amperex 7308, Amperex Holland E88CC, or add a Mullard to the stable.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> I'd offer to go in together on a pair, but during my short time with the CCa, it was too close to my current one to get another.
> 
> Any suggestions on a tube with a much different flavor?
> 
> ...


 
 Yeah, the problem with me is I'm not in the States, so shipping kills me. I will send you one of those Holland 6922 PQ's I just bought if you cover shipping. I want to hear your impressions.
  
 IMO:
 The Holland 7308's are well worth the money... go for as low VR# batch code as you can. I prefer the 7308 tubes to the E88CC Holland's I've heard.. but I'm sure there are great sounding E88CC's as well. The RTC branded Mullard E188CC tubes are super cheap compared to other 7308s, but I didn't find them to be anything special. To me, they sound more like a Siemens tube than an Amperex... They are available for about $45/tube on eBay if you make an offer. (I have one I would sell for cheaper than that if you want to try them out... I could ship them with the Holland PQ, just PM me if you want.)
  
 oh... edit added just for clarification about my opinion of Mullard tubes in general... The NOS 12au7 Mullard tubes are spectacular. The mids are liquid and unlike anything I've ever heard, including the infamous Amperex Holland mids. They are pricey though, and can't be used on the T1 without an adapter (as far as information from this thread goes.) I would love to hear anyone who has rolled 12au7 tubes in the T1 though. I love the sound of the Mullard 12au7's... seriously stellar mids. Guitar sounds to me >>>> than any other tube I've heard. (Amperex is a close second).


----------



## Chs177

mikoss said:


> I would love to hear anyone who has rolled 12au7 tubes in the T1 though.


 
 I love a sound of 12AU7 tubes too but I see no chance to use its in the T1.
 ECC88 tubes have 6.3V heater voltage, ECC82(12AU7) tubes have a 12V heater voltage.
 You may consider Project Sunrise/Ember for you as headphone amp.
 Both can use 12AU7 tubes.
 But It is reaaly depend on headphones: my Fostex TH600 sounds better with SS amp but AKG K550 sounds better with T1+Sunrise.
 It may be a good idea to combine Miniwatt in T1 and 12AU7 Mullard in the amp.


----------



## freeryder05

I have been reading around and haven't really found an answer. I have been using the AUne Tk1 MK2 for a decent while and am vastly underwhelmed. I think I gotexcited by the reviews and just bought a product that does not fit how I listen. First of all, the issues with USB 3.0 are devastating. My computer only has USB 3.0 ports and I don't have an option to switch them. My sound cuts in an out all day. (Anyone have any recommendations?) Overall, I'm not sure why I bought this piece, but I think solid states are just personally more my style. Does anyone have any recommendations of how to fix the USB issue though?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

freeryder05 said:


> I have been reading around and haven't really found an answer. I have been using the AUne Tk1 MK2 for a decent while and am vastly underwhelmed. I think I gotexcited by the reviews and just bought a product that does not fit how I listen. First of all, the issues with USB 3.0 are devastating. My computer only has USB 3.0 ports and I don't have an option to switch them. My sound cuts in an out all day. (Anyone have any recommendations?) Overall, I'm not sure why I bought this piece, but I think solid states are just personally more my style. Does anyone have any recommendations of how to fix the USB issue though?


 
  
  
 In your BIOS do you have the legacy USB option turned on?


----------



## freeryder05

ncsuzoso said:


> In your BIOS do you have the legacy USB option turned on?


 
 It is enabled. I just checked again.


----------



## joeq70

freeryder05 said:


> I have been reading around and haven't really found an answer. I have been using the AUne Tk1 MK2 for a decent while and am vastly underwhelmed. I think I gotexcited by the reviews and just bought a product that does not fit how I listen. First of all, the issues with USB 3.0 are devastating. My computer only has USB 3.0 ports and I don't have an option to switch them. My sound cuts in an out all day. (Anyone have any recommendations?) Overall, I'm not sure why I bought this piece, but I think solid states are just personally more my style. Does anyone have any recommendations of how to fix the USB issue though?



Hey man, I'm really sorry to hear you've had a bad experience with the T1 mk2. I've been using version 1 since the beginning, so I'm not familiar with the quirks of the mk2. However, I'll look around for some troubleshooting tips and get back to you.


----------



## joeq70

So, I saw your post on reddit freeryder ...looks like you might be out of luck.I have no idea if this would work but what if you tried plugging a powered USB 2.0 hub (has a wall power plug) into your USB 3.0 slot?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

freeryder05 said:


> It is enabled. I just checked again.


 
  
 Do you have access to any computer with USB 2.0 ports?  A friend? Work?  That way you can check if this is an issue with USB 3.0 or if it is an issue with the T1 MK2.  How long have you had the T1?
  
 Are you using a desktop?  If so what is the motherboard or what is the desktop model/manufacturer?  If it is a laptop what is the model/manufacturer?  I'm curious to see if all your ports are Intel PCH or if you have something like an Etron chipset along with the Intel ports.
  
 The T1 does not draw any power from the USB port (some owners actually cut the 5V pin), so power from the port is not an issue.  USB 3.0 should not be an issue either, but I have seen many devices act strange in a 3.0 port at work, so it's possible.


----------



## SirMarc

If you have an android phone with an otg cable, you can try plugging that in too


----------



## Hansotek

Wow (again). The Miniwatt sounds really nice with the HD650. Even with the stock amp (which I've never really liked with the HD650).
  
 The HD650, more than any other headphone I've tried in this little experiment, REALLY excelled with the T1>Lyr setup. As usual, it was the most analog sounding of the 3 test setups. I think what I liked about it was that it was kind of an overdose of the warm/lush sound, but not veiled at all. This is definitely my new favorite combo for the HD650.


----------



## joeq70

Hey fellas, so I decided to make a trade for an Asgard 2. Naturally, impressions will follow when it gets here.


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> Hey fellas, so I decided to make a trade for an Asgard 2. Naturally, impressions will follow when it gets here.


I think you'll be happy with it, I love mine with the t1


----------



## Hansotek

joeq70 said:


> Hey fellas, so I decided to make a trade for an Asgard 2. Naturally, impressions will follow when it gets here.



Nice! Congrats!


----------



## Koolpep

freeryder05 said:


> I have been reading around and haven't really found an answer. I have been using the AUne Tk1 MK2 for a decent while and am vastly underwhelmed. I think I gotexcited by the reviews and just bought a product that does not fit how I listen. First of all, the issues with USB 3.0 are devastating. My computer only has USB 3.0 ports and I don't have an option to switch them. My sound cuts in an out all day. (Anyone have any recommendations?) Overall, I'm not sure why I bought this piece, but I think solid states are just personally more my style. Does anyone have any recommendations of how to fix the USB issue though?




Just use a cheap non powered or powered usb 2.0 or 3.0 hub and you are sorted. It's a well known issue usb 3.0 and audio gear often causes problems when connected directly. Don't ask me for a technical explanation but I had these issues with a lot of DACs over the years and all worked just perfect in the hub.

May I ask what else is underwhelming with you T1? It's a very powerful 1000mW solid state amp. Try using the dac portion alone via line in so you can see if there is something wrong with the tube for the DAC.

Cheers,
K


----------



## freeryder05

joeq70 said:


> Hey man, I'm really sorry to hear you've had a bad experience with the T1 mk2. I've been using version 1 since the beginning, so I'm not familiar with the quirks of the mk2. However, I'll look around for some troubleshooting tips and get back to you.







joeq70 said:


> So, I saw your post on reddit freeryder ...looks like you might be out of luck.I have no idea if this would work but what if you tried plugging a powered USB 2.0 hub (has a wall power plug) into your USB 3.0 slot?







ncsuzoso said:


> Do you have access to any computer with USB 2.0 ports?  A friend? Work?  That way you can check if this is an issue with USB 3.0 or if it is an issue with the T1 MK2.  How long have you had the T1?
> 
> Are you using a desktop?  If so what is the motherboard or what is the desktop model/manufacturer?  If it is a laptop what is the model/manufacturer?  I'm curious to see if all your ports are Intel PCH or if you have something like an Etron chipset along with the Intel ports.
> 
> The T1 does not draw any power from the USB port (some owners actually cut the 5V pin), so power from the port is not an issue.  USB 3.0 should not be an issue either, but I have seen many devices act strange in a 3.0 port at work, so it's possible.







koolpep said:


> Just use a cheap non powered or powered usb 2.0 or 3.0 hub and you are sorted. It's a well known issue usb 3.0 and audio gear often causes problems when connected directly. Don't ask me for a technical explanation but I had these issues with a lot of DACs over the years and all worked just perfect in the hub.
> 
> May I ask what else is underwhelming with you T1? It's a very powerful 1000mW solid state amp. Try using the dac portion alone via line in so you can see if there is something wrong with the tube for the DAC.
> 
> ...




Thanks for all the input and help. Right now I just don't find I really get the maximum use for it. I am mobile most of the time and honestly I don't find the sound is much better than my e18. The warmth and source in the aune is unreal, but I just can't really find a way to justify the cost of what I spent on it. I mean right now all I use with it is 598hd and I just don't hear enough of a response compared to my e18.


----------



## Koolpep

freeryder05 said:


> Thanks for all the input and help. Right now I just don't find I really get the maximum use for it. I am mobile most of the time and honestly I don't find the sound is much better than my e18. The warmth and source in the aune is unreal, but I just can't really find a way to justify the cost of what I spent on it. I mean right now all I use with it is 598hd and I just don't hear enough of a response compared to my e18.




While I don't have the e18, I have a fiio X5 and previously an X3 and of course the marvelous HD598. Just listened to it yesterday night after upgrading the cable and my goodness this headphone was long neglected in my stable but not anymore. Amazing sound.

But indeed it's driven totally fine from the e18, the differences are microscopic at best to the T1 since the HD598 is really easy to drive and gets all it needs to sound great from the e18 already.

Things change with T90/T1 or Hd600/HD650 though, there you really need the juice from the Aune T1.

Cheers,
K


----------



## Chs177

joeq70 said:


> Hey fellas, so I decided to make a trade for an Asgard 2. Naturally, impressions will follow when it gets here.


 

 Hello, congratulations!
 We are waiting your impression here.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

freeryder05 said:


> Thanks for all the input and help. Right now I just don't find I really get the maximum use for it. I am mobile most of the time and honestly I don't find the sound is much better than my e18. The warmth and source in the aune is unreal, but I just can't really find a way to justify the cost of what I spent on it. I mean right now all I use with it is 598hd and I just don't hear enough of a response compared to my e18.


 
  
  
 If you are running it mobile, are you just using the Line In on the T1?  If so you aren't using any of what the unit is known for (the DAC with the Tube Buffer).  Like a user above mentioned, you can run this with an OTG cable to USB on an android device.  Doing that would use every part of the unit vs. line out that only uses the amp, which isn't what people buy the T1 for.
  
 Assuming you just purchased it and that is your impressions on the T1 vs. E18, then I'd return it.  The T1 isn't for everyone, although there are very many people who love the unit, especially after upgrading the tube and the capacitors.  Although you do need some experience soldering to replace the caps, but it is very simple and most people landed on the same capacitors in terms of the sound signature they produce (Panasonic FRs and ELNA SILMIC IIs).
  


chs177 said:


> Hello, congratulations!
> We are waiting your impression here.


 
  
 I noticed you are running Garage1217 Project Sunrise, I considered building that, but decided to go with the Magni 2 for the portability.
  
 What do you think of Sunrise?  How does it mesh with the Aune T1?  Eventually I'll get a higher end amp and I am looking closely at Garage1217's products, especially Project Ember.  I may go with something that is fully DIY (not a kit), but I am curious how Sunrise does with the T1.


----------



## joeq70

Hey, if any of you out there have Voskhod Rocket Logo tubes you are willing to part with, hit me up with a PM. I'd possibly be down to trade you a tube for it or purchase it from you.


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> Hey, if any of you out there have Voskhod Rocket Logo tubes you are willing to part with, hit me up with a PM. I'd possibly be down to trade you a tube for it or purchase it from you.


I think you are going to love the gold lion with the Asgard 2 going by the sound signature you seem to enjoy


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> I think you are going to love the gold lion with the Asgard 2 going by the sound signature you seem to enjoy


 
 I'm eager to try this combination. I've slowly begun to realize that I simply hunger and thirst for forward mids. My only concern with the Gold Lion is that it is a bit bass shy but maybe the Asgard will fill that in a bit.


----------



## SirMarc

Keep in mind that I have 300 ohm phones, but the midrange and bass really came to life when I hooked up the Asgard 2. The best way to explain it is I got alot more oomph to the music. You may even be able to use a more warm tube now, like an amperex 7308. Guess you'll find out...


----------



## SirMarc

Just re-read your post. You're not getting alot of bass from your gold lion? I find my gold lion to have very solid bass. Let us know what you think when you get the amp. Curious now...


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Just re-read your post. You're not getting alot of bass from your gold lion? I find my gold lion to have very solid bass. Let us know what you think when you get the amp. Curious now...


 
 I would consider it bass-shy compared to a couple of my other tubes. The subtleties between tubes regarding bass stand out to me a lot because my headphones are already bass-lite so even little changes I notice. It is also possible that the Gold Lion is light in the lower-midrange rather than the bass or sub-bass because it can be tough to discern the precise line between the two on my headphones as they don't have deep bass like I said. It sounds like I'm complaining but my headphones are the best I've heard for my tastes. Better than all Beyers, Grados, and Audezes. The only headphone that I'd consider parting with them for is the HD800.


----------



## SirMarc

Hmm, weird. My headphones are pretty neutral and the bass hits pretty hard with the gold lion. My 7308 has warmer bass, and goes a bit deeper, but the gold lion is more punchy.


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Hmm, weird. My headphones are pretty neutral and the bass hits pretty hard with the gold lion. My 7308 has warmer bass, and goes a bit deeper, but the gold lion is more punchy.


 
 I do think variation between the "same" tube is possible. I'll be sure to update my impressions on this matter when I get the Asgard 2.


----------



## SirMarc

Cool, I almost feel like I'm waiting for a new piece lol


----------



## Chs177

ncsuzoso said:


> I noticed you are running Garage1217 Project Sunrise, I considered building that, but decided to go with the Magni 2 for the portability.
> 
> What do you think of Sunrise?  How does it mesh with the Aune T1?  Eventually I'll get a higher end amp and I am looking closely at Garage1217's products, especially Project Ember.  I may go with something that is fully DIY (not a kit), but I am curious how Sunrise does with the T1.


 
 Short answer is: it really depend on your headphones.
 Most of my headphones are low impedance. That is why I choose Sunrise because it is hybrid and works with low impedance headphones and have no op-amps as Ember. Reality is slightly different because Sunrise work better with high impedance headphones. On low impedance and sensible headphones you could hear a noise floor.
 My Fostex TH600 sound better with Sunrise then Aune T1 alone  but Denon/Fostex are special headphones and have a pretty good synergy with SS amps. So I prefer Aune T1 with dedicated SS amp for my Fostex.
 Another part of story is my AKG K550. It really shine with Aune T1 and Sunrise. I red on forums that AKG likes tube/hybrid amplifiers and it is true.
 Best sound for AKG K550 that I hear was on Aune T1 and Sunrise. (I also have a Sabre DAC and  SS amp).
 I hope I answered your question.
  
 P.S.: I will go to Cavalli Audio EHHA. I already have a kit from GlassJar Audio but I have no time to solder it. I'm waiting for free time window for soldering. I also have a pair of Telefunkens ECC86 for it.


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Hmm, weird. My headphones are pretty neutral and the bass hits pretty hard with the gold lion. My 7308 has warmer bass, and goes a bit deeper, but the gold lion is more punchy.


 
 I tinkered with the gain switches on the T1 amp and flipped position 1 to on and now the sound of the Gold Lion is more punchy at the same volume as before. Nice!


----------



## SirMarc

Cool


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Alright look at what I just bought and it is from a seller I have dealt with many times (greengirl613) that offers a 30 day return:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/400859053858
  
 That is an Amperex 7308 Holland Bugle Boy with a big ass ugly sticker on it, haha, for $68.99.
  
 Tests 10,600/11,400, which isn't knock your socks off, but for the price it is awesome. (12.5k/12.5k is NOS Standard)
  

  
 For the Amperex guys out there (because I am more of a Siemens guy):
  
 Is this a rare find?  I can't find any info on a 7308 Bugle Boy, although I can find info on Amperex 7308 Holland tubes.  Holland 7308s are supposed to be expensive and rare, although not as rare as a CCa or Miniwatt.  Has anyone seen a 7308 Holland Bugle Boy? 
  
 I knew it was an Amperex right off the bat by the construction and the fact that most 6922 (gold pins/grey shields) tubes coming out of Holland were Amperex.


----------



## joeq70

.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

lol, yea the post changed a lot when I realized what it was.
  
  
 Oh, since I am not going to buy this other tube now, you guys should take a look if you are looking for a good value.
  
  
 This is *January 1964 6922 Siemens* RCA Labeled tube made in Munchen, Germany.  (I did my homework on it)
  
*It's currently sitting at $10.50 ($5 SH) with 8 hours and 42 minutes left.*
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/111597102938
  


> Tested very strong in my TV-7......80 and 89


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> lol, yea the post changed a lot when I realized what it was.
> 
> 
> Oh, since I am not going to buy this other tube now, you guys should take a look if you are looking for a good value.
> ...




Shhhh



I've been watching that plus 60 or so other listings... A couple ending today with low bids that I'm sure will go up. 

As for the 7308, it would be cool if you could ask her for the batch code and date code. Low VR is generally considered to be the nicest, but I honestly don't think it matters much unless it's very low with a pinched waist or d getter. 

Looking fwd to your impressions... If you want that OG just PM me as well.

Oh also that sticker is considered to be a good thing. As far as I've read, Tektronix tested tubes had good specs. Not entirely sure how the testing went, but I think it should be well balanced and low microphony.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Well it almost tripled its price in the last 3 minutes, I didn't figure enough people would know what the tube really was.
  
 Did you win it?
  
 There is also this Miniwatt that ends in 3 days   
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/281600359027


----------



## joeq70

Just a head up to people: if one of my other tubes ends up sounding better with my new amp and my headphones then I'll prob sell the miniwatt. I have my fingers crossed for this because I don't want to need to rely on a pricey, hard to find tube if I don't have to. PM me if you want first crack should this be the case.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> Well it almost tripled its price in the last 3 minutes, I didn't figure enough people would know what the tube really was.
> 
> Did you win it?
> 
> ...




Actually, I went to charge my phone and forgot about it... Oops. 

That Miniwatt is still around because it's an F factory code... French made, so not as popular as Holland ones. Not sure how it sounds; I've yet to audition any tubes made in Suresnes.

Anyone else heard them? Any impressions vs delta made tubes?

Also if anyone is wondering how to distinguish between factories for Amperex/Philips tubes, if the tubes are missing etched codes, just look at the getter flash at the top...
- lots of flashing = German made (think Siemens) 
- smallest amount of flashing (where you can see the getter itself below the flashing) = French made (take a look at this tube for an example)
- just a bit more flash than the French tubes = Holland made. 

As for US vs Holland, both have just about the same amount of flashing (the star code is US). Also, British (Mullards) I've noticed the top creases are sometimes less prominent than the other tubes.


----------



## penmarker

I feel like I'm studying about Pokemon here. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 So many things to learn.
  
 I'll just backtrack a few dozen pages and see what cheap tube is better than the stock 6922EH.


----------



## joeq70

penmarker said:


> I feel like I'm studying about Pokemon here.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Hahaha. The only thing I've really learned from this experience is that this stuff is really subjective. I honestly don't even know where I put the stock tube. I can't even remember how it sounds.
  
  
 ---
  
 So, my Schiit Asgard 2  arrived! I ‘ve done a bit a A/Bing with several tubes now. Here as my observations:
  
 Things the Asgard 2 does better than the T1 internal amp:
  
 First, overall the differences are subtle but the cumulative effect of the small differences makes the Asgard 2 a better listening experience and definitely worth keeping.
  
 1)      1)The Asgard 2 has a lower noise floor—there is no background noise with the Asgard 2. There is a little bit with the T1 amp.
  
 2)      2)The overall sound is smoother with the Asgard 2—this is a common description I read in reviews for the Asgard 2. I agree with it. But don’t be confused about what it means.  
 I           It’s not a smearing, smudgy smoothness. It’s a refined, pleasant, full sound. I wouldn’t even necessarily call it warmth. It’s this weird pleasantness that’s kind of hard to describe. So I shall dub it smoothness.
  
 3)      3)Bass is fuller and the whole sound spectrum sounds a bit more substantial on the Asgard 2. The T1 amp is a bit thin sounding in comparison.
  
 That about sums it up. The Asgard 2 is really nice. The differences between it and the stock amp are not exactly night and day, though. I’ll be listening to the Asgard 2 on some other (more demanding) headphones in the future.  Perhaps then the differences will be more pronounced.
  
 Edit: The thinness of the T1 amp is becoming more obvious as I become more used to the Asgard 2's sound.


----------



## theblueprint

joeq70 said:


> That about sums it up. The Asgard 2 is really nice. The differences between it and the stock amp are not exactly night and day, though. I’ll be listening to the Asgard 2 on some other (more demanding) headphones in the future.  Perhaps then the differences will be more pronounced.




I wish you had a magni to compare with your new Asgard 2. I still debating between the the two as a replacement for the T1's amp. 

Great impressions though!


----------



## SirMarc

Joe, glad you like it. Your magnums are 32 ohm right? Wait till you hear the difference with higher ohm headphones. This combo really sings with sennheisers. I've read that they designed the amp using hd600s, could be why I love the amp so much...


----------



## SirMarc

Which gain setting are you using? I may be crazy, but I preferred the high gain setting more on my 32 ohm headphones. Try A/Bing it


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Which gain setting are you using? I may be crazy, but I preferred the high gain setting more on my 32 ohm headphones. Try A/Bing it



As a matter of fact, I am using the high gain setting because it gives me a slightly "livelier" sound. A bit punchier.


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Joe, glad you like it. Your magnums are 32 ohm right? Wait till you hear the difference with higher ohm headphones. This combo really sings with sennheisers. I've read that they designed the amp using hd600s, could be why I love the amp so much...



HD600 is on my to buy list.


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> HD600 is on my to buy list.


What tube are you liking the most?


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> HD600 is on my to buy list.


See if you can borrow a pair first, you may not like them. For example, I hate grados, they hurt my ears. I find the highs piercing, and the bass to be lacking. Never heard magnums though...


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> See if you can borrow a pair first, you may not like them. For example, I hate grados, they hurt my ears. I find the highs piercing, and the bass to be lacking. Never heard magnums though...



I've actually listened to the HD600 many times. I've considered getting it as a complement to the Magnums for a while now. I used to own the HD650 but I don't care for its FR balance. I've always noticed a bit of a midbass hump with them.


----------



## SirMarc

If you don't mind used, see if you can track down some hd580's, you could probably save about a hundred bucks for essentially the same cans...


----------



## SirMarc

I bought mine new in the mid nineties and sent them in to sennheiser to be gone over last year. They only charged me 70 bucks to replace the cushions, clean the drivers, and I think they changed the conectors too. Good company...


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> If you don't mind used, see if you can track down some hd580's, you could probably save about a hundred bucks for essentially the same cans...


 
 This is good advice, although I don't see the HD580 for sale that often and when it is, the savings are kind of modest (last pair I saw was like $180). 
  
  
  
 ---
 Anyway, some extra thoughts on the Asgard 2 and tube pairings. I would say that the Asgard 2 imparts its own characteristics on the sound (like any amp does) and the result of this is that all of the tubes I have sound slightly better than they did before, for whatever reason. SirMarc was right when he said I'd enjoy the Gold Lion with the Asgard 2. I really like it a lot. It has a forward sound that at high volumes on the T1 amp was a tad too harsh. The Gold Lion sounds a bit sexier with the Asgard 2. I still like the Miniwatt a lot, though.  And the Voskhod has a very appealing aggressive sound to it, but I'm not sure I can like the congested soundstage.


----------



## Hansotek

joeq70 said:


> sirmarc said:
> 
> 
> > Joe, glad you like it. Your magnums are 32 ohm right? Wait till you hear the difference with higher ohm headphones. This combo really sings with sennheisers. I've read that they designed the amp using hd600s, could be why I love the amp so much...
> ...



You may want to subscribe to the deals discussion thread. HD600s have been showing up on a lot of flash sales lately. I think they popped up at $249.99 on Adorama just a couple of days ago.


----------



## SirMarc

When I bought my hd580's new 20 years ago I think I paid 500 lol. 250 is a sweet deal


----------



## joeq70

hansotek said:


> You may want to subscribe to the deals discussion thread. HD600s have been showing up on a lot of flash sales lately. I think they popped up at $249.99 on Adorama just a couple of days ago.


 
 Thanks will do!


----------



## mikoss

joeq70 said:


> ... And the Voskhod has a very appealing aggressive sound to it, but I'm not sure I can like the the congested soundstage.



Exactly how I feel about the rockets! Such a nice sound for rocking out, but it sounds so unfocused to me... I would enjoy hearing some of the "highly acclaimed" other rockets though... Meh too many tubes to enjoy.


----------



## Toyface

Hi all, 
  
 First post here in this thread (one of my first on Head-Fi, long-time lurker). Had my Aune T1 for a while now, mostly using it with a pair of AKG K550s and occassionally my Master & Dynamic MH40s. I've only just got round to purchasing my first aftermarket tube (I got an Electro Harmonix (no likey) and a pair of 6N23P tubes, one stamped CCCP and the other not, the CCCP is nice and warm with some intimate lows and creamy highs IMO, and it's quite nice overall). 
  
 This tube is a Tesla made in Czechoslovakia in the 90s and I got it from eBay UK for £12 odd including shipping (Item no: 
310143484807) It arrived nicely packed, quick as well. I have attached a quick image (well, I will when I have rights to, I should say). This has probably been covered before, but I am just getting my feet wet, so to speak. It's a fairly a neutral tube IMO, bass is tight, yet not tubby or warm and the highs are straight to the point without being piercing. It's almost "dry", but it's a decent, cheap tube for those looking for a "reference tube" if such a thing exists. It's a little too neutral when used with the K550s, but really levels our the overly warm MH40s and brings them down to earth again. So in that regard, it's great for the price! 
  
If anyone has any tips for picking up tips from eBay UK or places that ship to the UK happily, then I am all ears! Specifically looking for a Gold Lion to try out. 
  
Tom.


----------



## tonephile

I killed my power supply. Anyone have any ideas on replacement or upgrade?

Thanks.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

tonephile said:


> I killed my power supply. Anyone have any ideas on replacement or upgrade?
> 
> Thanks.


 
  
 The power supply is pretty unique, it is not an AC to DC PSU like most wall warts.  It takes ~110V AC and drops it to 15V AC.
  
 I would contact Aune Audio
  
 sales@auneaudio.com
  
 I would also contact HiFi DIY, which is their US Supplier of parts.
  
 hifidiynet@yahoo.com
  
 Most likely HiFi DIY has spares available, I doubt this is the first time it has ever happened.  They aren't going to list it on their site, but I bet they have them.  They were out of stock on the T1's amp PCB when I tried to get a replacement, but they had them in the past.  Shipping from Aune is roughly $20 if you go through Aune Audio in China to the US. 
  
 BTW it's good to see another person from NC on here, I used to live in Raleigh and I'll be returning for the Fall Semester at NCSU in Electrical Engineering.


----------



## tonephile

Excellent. Thanks for all great info. 
  
 Yes, great to meet a fellow NC head-fi person. I'm sure we'll be in touch in the future.


----------



## joeq70

Hey all I put the Miniwatt up for sale to help fund my HD600 purchase. I like it a lot, but if I'm going to choose between a tube and some headphones, I'm going to spring for the headphones!


----------



## SirMarc

Cool. Have you noticed that you can listen pretty loud with less ear fatigue with the Asgard? Its weird, I can go for longer at loud volumes with the t1-asgard rig than with my dynaco-thorens rig


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Cool. Have you noticed that you can listen pretty loud with less ear fatigue with the Asgard? Its weird, I can go for longer at loud volumes with the t1-asgard rig than with my dynaco-thorens rig



Actually that is one of the things that makes the Asgard 2 worth keeping. I still like the sound of the T1 amp for my current headphones but yeah the Asgard 2 is less fatiguing for sure.


----------



## cliffflip

Hi, first post here in and I want to share some bad experiences I have with Aune T1, MK2 version.
  
First of all, I bought it on 8th Nov 2014, I have to say I pretty much satisfied with the product, use it mainly with my HD 558 and M50. I use it normally (e.g. I don't use it >5 hours straight, let alone left it on overnight, etc) because I know from some reviews and my own experience it has some heat issues.
 
Well two days ago (19th Feb 2015) my Aune T1 MK2 apparently short circuited when I'm using it, I can smell burnt odor and see thin white smoke coming out from the unit. Although the music still playing, I immediately disconnect the USB and power cable from the unit.
 
Today (21st Feb) I bought the unit to AMTechnologies (as authorized distributor in Indonesia) to claim warranty, either for 1 to 1 replacement or just replace the damaged part (still in 1-year warranty from them). Sadly, their representative said that they can't do anything with these kind of cases, claiming that he have to contact Aune before he can do anything, because they don't have the replacement spare parts. He also said that Aune could reject the warranty if the damaged part is too severe, pointing to some cases where the damaged parts are worse than mine and Aune eventually rejects it.
 
To make things worse, he also said that Aune is currently on Chinese New Year holiday and can only be reached on 2nd March.
 
I need to know that if this is also happened in another country, because well, it sucks.
 
Sorry for the bad English


----------



## joeq70

cliffflip said:


> [COLOR=222222]Hi, first post here in and I want to share some bad experiences I have with Aune T1, MK2 version.[/COLOR]
> 
> [COLOR=222222]First of all, I bought it on 8th Nov 2014, I have to say I pretty much satisfied with the product, use it mainly with my HD 558 and M50. I use it normally (e.g. I don't use it >5 hours straight, let alone left it on overnight, etc) because I know from some reviews and my own experience it has some heat issues.[/COLOR]
> [COLOR=222222] [/COLOR]
> ...



That is a real bummer :/ It's a shame that you have to wait so long to hear from Aune. It sounds to me like you should definitely get a new unit from Aune. Let us know how it goes. People should become aware if Aune refuses to provide basic warranty service.

By the way, your English looks good to me!


----------



## rovopio

cliffflip said:


> Hi


 
  
 If aune is on holiday, their response might be slow. 
  
 If i were you, i would go to their website and contact them directly. Maybe if you contact aune directly they will be more communicative with you. (or maybe not.).
 Check out their website, and their ebay page and contact them through e-mail from there.


----------



## cliffflip

Thanks for your reply.
  
 I've sent an email to Aune, including asking their policy about this. hoping they will respond it ASAP so this will be solved faster.


----------



## penmarker

They shouldn't be on holiday for that long, a whole month for celebration? Wow. 
  
 I suggest you keep bugging them with your emails until they reply you. The seller/distributor should also have repairing/warranty services. Stars Pickers is a Malaysian distributor and I sent my unit for repairs because of a channel imbalance in the DAC portion. They claimed a fee but I got upgraded to MK2 DAC board.


----------



## cliffflip

This is an Auto-reply email I got from Aune :
  
_Hello , this is Candy , we are on the Chinese New Year holiday from 16th , Feb to 25th , Feb , we will back on work on 26th , Feb , anything can send email to me , i will reply you as soon as possible , thanks _
  
 Quote:


penmarker said:


> They shouldn't be on holiday for that long, a whole month for celebration? Wow.
> 
> I suggest you keep bugging them with your emails until they reply you. The seller/distributor should also have repairing/warranty services. Stars Pickers is a Malaysian distributor and I sent my unit for repairs because of a channel imbalance in the DAC portion. They claimed a fee but I got upgraded to MK2 DAC board.


 
  
 Yes, they (distributor) bragging if the issue were in fact, a minor problem (e.g. device not recognized, channel imbalance, the unit produces noises, etc) they will process it in 3 to 4 working days. It isn't the case if the problems are more serious.


----------



## penmarker

Wow I didn't know Aune is managed by a bunch of dicks. They shouldn't do that to their customers. Do you have any ticket numbers or reference numbers through your email with them?


----------



## mikoss

re: Chinese holidays, this is quite common and I've seen this message on a bunch of Chinese audio retailer websites. Yes, it sucks to have a defective product and wait, but I wouldn't worry that they won't honour fixing the defective product because of the time lapse... smoke is probably a serious issue.
  
 Super interested in knowing what smoked in that unit... I'd guess a capacitor, but not sure how the sound would continue to play


----------



## cliffflip

penmarker said:


> Wow I didn't know Aune is managed by a bunch of dicks. They shouldn't do that to their customers. Do you have any ticket numbers or reference numbers through your email with them?


 
  
 Nope, no ticket number or anything. 
  
 But here another email I got :;
  
_sorry，we are on the holiday now,we will reply you when we back on 26th,Feb_
_发自我的iPhone_
  
 I think this is a real person answering (not auto-reply bot like first email). Still won't help anything tho 
  


mikoss said:


> re: Chinese holidays, this is quite common and I've seen this message on a bunch of Chinese audio retailer websites. Yes, it sucks to have a defective product and wait, but I wouldn't worry that they won't honour fixing the defective product because of the time lapse... smoke is probably a serious issue.
> 
> Super interested in knowing what smoked in that unit... I'd guess a capacitor, but not sure how the sound would continue to play


 
  
 The distributor take a picture of the board :
  
 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Qf9GGZMb7INEY3Sjd2YUs1WG8/view?usp=sharing
  
 Look at the 3 burnt IC (not sure what it called) just at the center of the picture.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Those are the exact same resistors that burnt out on my amp PCB, however I thought it was my fault.


----------



## creatip

cliffflip said:


> Hi, first post here in and I want to share some bad experiences I have with Aune T1, MK2 version.
> 
> First of all, I bought it on 8th Nov 2014, I have to say I pretty much satisfied with the product, use it mainly with my HD 558 and M50. I use it normally (e.g. I don't use it >5 hours straight, let alone left it on overnight, etc) because I know from some reviews and my own experience it has some heat issues.
> 
> ...


 
  
 AMTech in mangga dua mall? You sure that's a 'real' Aune distributors? Because it doesn't show up in the official distributor list: http://en.auneaudio.com/html/enHTB/enD/
  
 Might be just a store buying Aune in bulk, and selling them in Indonesia. Might be, though, not sure if that's the case.
  
 For comparison, 'don't blame your ears', based in Bandung and store in Plaza Semanggi is listed in Hifiman's official dealer list: http://hifiman.com/AboutUs/Dealer/ (just use browser search for keyword 'blame')
  


penmarker said:


> They shouldn't be on holiday for that long, a whole month for celebration? Wow.
> 
> I suggest you keep bugging them with your emails until they reply you. The seller/distributor should also have repairing/warranty services. Stars Pickers is a Malaysian distributor and I sent my unit for repairs because of a channel imbalance in the DAC portion. They claimed a fee but I got upgraded to MK2 DAC board.


 
  
 China regards chinese holiday as THE biggest event ever. It's bigger than christmas/new year, or summer holiday.I'd say even bigger than their national day. It's just the way it is. 
  


cliffflip said:


> Nope, no ticket number or anything.
> 
> But here another email I got :;
> 
> ...


 
  
 That's the amp PCB board. The DAC is still usable if you got another amp working. Just plug the other amp to the back RCA out jacks. I experienced that myself. Fried the amp PCB board when trying to do cap mod. Naturally I couldn't claim the warranty, because it's unofficial modding. Ordered replacement(s) from them, but while waiting for it to arrive, I plugged another amp to the back RCA jacks.
  
 Judging from the picture, they won't try to repair it. Too much effort anyway. If they agree to the warranty (which they should), they'd just send you a replacement PCB board.
  
 BTW, if that AMTech is a 'real' dealer, you should push them to replace the whole stuff, 1 to 1 replacement. Technically, their obligation is to replace only that fried PCB board, but since they don't have them in stock, try push them to give you a new whole unit, while you give them your whole old unit, naturally. If they give an excuse that they'd have to replace the PCB, and order it from China (and bla bla bla), just say, 'how about I give you my old one, you give me a new one, and you can sort things out with the main office (China's Aune) later, at your own time and convenience'
  
 In my own experience, they (the Aune base in China) is very responsive in communication by e-mails. Candy was also the one handling my inquiries at the time. Often, she (assuming it's a girl) would reply my e-mails within the same day.


----------



## penmarker

They were responsive when I inquired about my warranty and repairs too but I opted not to because shipping takes too long and too much money.

Though I do recall someone complaining about a unit getting lost when sent to aune, or was it a different thread?


----------



## mikoss

Weird thing... I just got some killer GEC power tubes for my WA2, and now I notice that my desktop computer sounds better through USB to the T1 than my laptop... it has a more "full" sound (somehow sounds like more bass) and also sounds smoother. The laptop USB to the T1 sounds less smooth and a bit dull/lacking that body. I wonder if it's jitter or something... 
  
 Ahh maybe I should try playing around with the buffer.
  
 My desktop has a buffer of 1000ms and I'm using WASAPI event mode. Laptop was set at 50ms and WASAPI event... I have a feeling the buffer difference was causing jitter. (The sound was noticeably different, I might even try to do some blind tests sometime). 
  
 Never noticed this at all until I rolled in these tubes... they are extremely superb sounding. Apparently the GEC 6AS7G's are even better, but at $500+ I think I'll stick with the GEC 6080's.
  
 Also, the best sound I've found is using a Valvo E88CC made in Hamburg in the T1. It has more bass than the Heerlen tubes, and also a bit more air on top. The WA2 has the GEC power tubes, and Heerlen Miniwatt drivers.


----------



## cliffflip

creatip said:


> AMTech in mangga dua mall? You sure that's a 'real' Aune distributors? Because it doesn't show up in the official distributor list: http://en.auneaudio.com/html/enHTB/enD/
> 
> Might be just a store buying Aune in bulk, and selling them in Indonesia. Might be, though, not sure if that's the case.
> 
> ...


 
  
 I can't access aune site you mentioned, it says 400 Unknown Virtual Host.
  
 I bought it from another store that listed 'by AMT' on their catalog, and it usually indicating it's the product distributor. The unit also has a card that listed AMT to claim a warranty. Now that I never ask AMT about it, I'm not really sure. Oh yes, I bought couple stuff from dontblameyourears, not Hifiman products tho.
  
 I was thinking about 1 to 1 replacement, but at least I want to know what official Aune person say to my previous mail. This might be a 'plus point' when I confront AMT representative later. Honestly I don't mind if it's involving a small fee (if must) for 1 to 1 replacement. Thanks for your advice


----------



## rovopio

cliffflip said:


> I can't access aune site you mentioned, it says 400 Unknown Virtual Host.
> 
> I bought it from another store that listed 'by AMT' on their catalog, and it usually indicating it's the product distributor. The unit also has a card that listed AMT to claim a warranty. Now that I never ask AMT about it, I'm not really sure. Oh yes, I bought couple stuff from dontblameyourears, not Hifiman products tho.
> 
> I was thinking about 1 to 1 replacement, but at least I want to know what official Aune person say to my previous mail. This might be a 'plus point' when I confront AMT representative later. Honestly I don't mind if it's involving a small fee (if must) for 1 to 1 replacement. Thanks for your advice


 
  
 how old is your aune t1 again?
 don't your country have like 14 days or 30 days return policy or whatever?
  
 can you proof that you are getting an item that has manufacturing defect? If you can prove that, In my view, you should've got a replacement when you went there the firs time.


----------



## creatip

cliffflip said:


> I can't access aune site you mentioned, it says 400 Unknown Virtual Host.
> 
> I bought it from another store that listed 'by AMT' on their catalog, and it usually indicating it's the product distributor. The unit also has a card that listed AMT to claim a warranty. Now that I never ask AMT about it, I'm not really sure. Oh yes, I bought couple stuff from dontblameyourears, not Hifiman products tho.
> 
> I was thinking about 1 to 1 replacement, but at least I want to know what official Aune person say to my previous mail. This might be a 'plus point' when I confront AMT representative later. Honestly I don't mind if it's involving a small fee (if must) for 1 to 1 replacement. Thanks for your advice


 
  
 The link is working here. Maybe blocked by ISP? Try googling 'aune audio distributor' and go with the hits. Also don't use www. in front. Somehow it's not working with www.
  
 Reason I brought up dbe was just to compare that if a store is the official/authorized dealer, it should be listed in the brand's website. Dbe is even listed in Fiio's website, http://www.fiio.net/en/stores (click the dropdown to select Indonesia), proving that it's really an authorized dealer. Aune doesn't even have anyone in Indonesia, only Singapore and Malaysia (the stars pickers mentioned above is listed)
  
 Well, just know that in my, and other people's experience, the representative (Candy I guess) is quite responsive. It's just so happen that this time is their big holiday


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I can already give you the answer from Candy, it's $8 for the amp PCB itself and then about $20 for shipping to the US (if you live in the US).  She should be able to give you exact shipping quotes to your area, even if they are "closed".
  
 Those are simple surface mount resistors and when mine blew I considered just soldering replacement through hole resistors on top of them (just clip them short and lay the leads to the SM ends.  If I remember right all of them are 28 ohm, someone that doesn't have an amp PCB blown could check pretty easily.
  
 Just give us the values of resistors: R58/R59/R60/R61/R69/R70, I believe they are all 28 ohm.
  
 Oh and what are the resistor values for R50 and R51, I noticed those are also blown on mine (these are the two closest to the dip switches).
  
 I wish they would restock HiFi DIY with more boards and I don't understand why they haven't.  I would get a replacement amp if I could get it for a reasonable shipping cost, but I'm not paying 2.5x more for shipping than the amp costs.
  
 What we should do is get a group together in the US who either needs a replacement or just wants to know they have a spare and buy 5-10 of them (shipping cost is the same).  If we had 10 people that would make it $10 each + individual shipping in the US (~$2).


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> I can already give you the answer from Candy, it's $8 for the amp PCB itself and then about $20 for shipping to the US (if you live in the US).  She should be able to give you exact shipping quotes to your area, even if they are "closed".
> 
> Those are simple surface mount resistors and when mine blew I considered just soldering replacement through hole resistors on top of them (just clip them short and lay the leads to the SM ends.  If I remember right all of them are 28 ohm, someone that doesn't have an amp PCB blown could check pretty easily.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Yes, it cost me the same as well, $8/PCB. I didn't brought it up earlier before because someone in a post above said that they're out of PCB board. I didn't know if it's being restocked, or they change their policy, stop selling it altogether. 
  
 I actually blew 3 amp PCBs before I succeeded in modding the fourth one. First time I ordered 2 PCBs, it cost $20 shipping by TNT, to Asia. Maybe flat shiprate. Second time I ordered 3 PCBs, and the shipping rate became $24. I already paid by paypal $20 for the shipping. I asked if I should add the difference, but Candy gave me a discount, and I didn't add anything. She offered to ship by China post, which is $10, but it will take 2-3 weeks to arrive. It shouldn't matter if buying just to have spares, though.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

creatip said:


> Yes, it cost me the same as well, $8/PCB. I didn't brought it up earlier before because someone in a post above said that they're out of PCB board. I didn't know if it's being restocked, or they change their policy, stop selling it altogether.
> 
> I actually blew 3 amp PCBs before I succeeded in modding the fourth one. First time I ordered 2 PCBs, it cost $20 shipping by TNT, to Asia. Maybe flat shiprate. Second time I ordered 3 PCBs, and the shipping rate became $24. I already paid by paypal $20 for the shipping. I asked if I should add the difference, but Candy gave me a discount, and I didn't add anything. She offered to ship by China post, which is $10, but it will take 2-3 weeks to arrive. It shouldn't matter if buying just to have spares, though.


 
  
 Aune Audio is not out of stock, HiFi DIY (their US Supplier) is out of stock.  You can still get them from Aune Audio, if they are still shipping on the Holiday.
  
 However from Aune the shipping is $18 and HiFi DIY should be at most $5, but they don't have anymore of them left.  I asked Aune if they were going to restock them and got no real answer.
  
  
  
 Oh guys, btw, my Amperex Holland 7308 will be here today!  I will let you know if it dethrones the Siemens 6922.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> ...
> Just give us the values of resistors: R58/R59/R60/R61/R69/R70, I believe they are all 28 ohm.
> 
> Oh and what are the resistor values for R50 and R51, I noticed those are also blown on mine (these are the two closest to the dip switches).
> ...


 
  
 From the values printed on the resistors:
 R50: 1001 =  1000 ohms
 R51: 1001 = 1000 ohms
 R58: 22R0 = 22 ohms
 R59: 22R0 = 22 ohms
 R60: 22R0 = 22 ohms
 R61: 10R0 = 10 ohms
 R69: 22R0 = 22 ohms 
 R70: 10R0 = 10 ohms 
  
 I confirmed that all measure exactly what the printed values say with my DMM.
  
 Lol yes let's start a T1 stockpile of our own... actually, I would love to talk with Aune and get them to make a mkIII that has better capacitors, a better amp, and release the schematics.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Thanks!  Now I'll fix the thing myself with through hole resistors for like $3, lol.
  
 I only had about 20 minutes with the Amperex 7308 Holland, but I am really impressed with the initial sound.  I can definitely see why some people swear by these tubes.  I only did a few back and forth tests vs. the Siemens 6922 and the Amperex seems to have a wider sound stage and more airiness, while the Siemens has more focus and sparkle + surprisingly, more bass.  It may have been the exact song I was using (And It Stoned Me - Van Morrison 24bit/96kHz), but the Siemens seemed to be more punchy, which I have never said about it before, haha.
  
 BTW, with a flashlight you are able to see the what is under the sticker at the right angle.  I was correct from the start, Amperex 7308 Holland Bugle Boy, which made me happy lol.
 I'll post more on the tube when I have more time


----------



## creatip

Is amperex 7308 and amperex 6dj8 different? I know they should be interchangeable, but are they the same thing or not?
  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Amperex-7308-Gold-Pins-Radio-Tube-Very-Nice-Strong-Bal-13-400-13-500-/400854652357?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d54cc95c5
  
 vs
  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-PQ-GOLD-PIN-6922-6DJ8-ECC88-VACUUM-TUBE-SINGLE-LARGE-O-GTR-TEST-GOOD-41-/151466210581?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item234416f515
  
 Both amperex, both gold pins, both made in USA.


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> Thanks!  Now I'll fix the thing myself with through hole resistors for like $3, lol.
> 
> I only had about 20 minutes with the Amperex 7308 Holland, but I am really impressed with the initial sound.  I can definitely see why some people swear by these tubes.  I only did a few back and forth tests vs. the Siemens 6922 and the Amperex seems to have a wider sound stage and more airiness, while the Siemens has more focus and sparkle + surprisingly, more bass.  It may have been the exact song I was using (And It Stoned Me - Van Morrison 24bit/96kHz), but the Siemens seemed to be more punchy, which I have never said about it before, haha.
> 
> ...


 
 Exactly my thoughts on the Siemens vs Amperex tubes...
  
 Siemens have deeper bass with more punch, and more sparkle on top. Overall, more transparent sounding until you start comparing the very best Amperex tubes to Siemens, where they start sounding very similar to each other. Siemens to me sound extremely transparent as you move up to E188CC's and then to CCa tubes. Imaging and micro-detail get better.
  
 Amperex tubes have a more linear/overall warm sound with the Holland's having an emphasis on midrange. I find the 7308 branded tubes to have a rolled off top end... not noticeably or anything, until you swap in a younger 7308 or a Miniwatt... these tubes to me have a much better high end. Imaging comes out better, and so does micro detail retrieval. The young ones would be VR0, VR1 or VR2. After that, they all start sounding less exciting to me.
  
 USA made Amperex tubes have less warmth in the lower midrange, and more tweed in the upper mids... a more "raw" sound. I find it helps to add some atmosphere overall and that may be why a lot of people prefer the USN white label tubes. I think they're slightly overrated and overpriced, going for over $125/tube.
  
 I recently compared a crapload of Amperex tubes and came to these conclusions... I actually enjoy the Hamburg made E88CC's a lot because they remind me of Siemens tubes quite a bit, but still retain a bit of the Holland midrange.


----------



## joeq70

I'd just like to further update my impressions of the T1/Asgard 2...The T1 with the miniwatt e188cc into the Asgard 2 and into the HD600 is seriously fantastic. The Asgard 2 really separates itself from the internal amp of the T1 with the HD600.


----------



## mikoss

creatip said:


> Is amperex 7308 and amperex 6dj8 different? I know they should be interchangeable, but are they the same thing or not?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Amperex-7308-Gold-Pins-Radio-Tube-Very-Nice-Strong-Bal-13-400-13-500-/400854652357?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d54cc95c5
> 
> ...


 
 Yes they are entirely interchangeable.
  
 6DJ8 = ECC88
 6922 = E88CC (better specs than 6DJ8; longer tube life)
 JAN 6922 = 7308 = E188CC (Military version; better specs than 6922... tighter tolerances and more robust heater)
 CCa = E88CC with good specs
  
 As for the sounds, they all have their good points. Generally speaking, the level of "refinement" increases as you go up the ladder, but "refinement" may not equal better sound.
  
 edit: the Orange 6922 is cheaper/less desirable because it's made in the 70's, and tests much lower than the 7308. The 7308 tests very well... 13,400/13,500 is great considering the spec is 12,500/12,500. I personally find the 70's tubes sound fine... but people desire the white label 60's tubes.


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> I'd just like to further update my impressions of the T1/Asgard 2...The T1 with the miniwatt e188cc into the Asgard 2 and into the HD600 is seriously fantastic. The Asgard 2 really separates itself from the internal amp of the T1 with the HD600.


Told you...lol


----------



## SirMarc

mikoss said:


> Yes they are entirely interchangeable.
> 
> 6DJ8 = ECC88
> 6922 = E88CC (better specs than 6DJ8; longer tube life)
> ...


How would you rate the American JAN white label 7308's from the mid 60's? That's what I use with my t1/Asgard 2/hd580's and love it


----------



## mikoss

sirmarc said:


> How would you rate the American JAN white label 7308's from the mid 60's? That's what I use with my t1/Asgard 2/hd580's and love it


 
 So here's the deal with the Sennheiser/Amperex synergy... in my opinion.
  
 The 600's and the 650's are essentially very close to each other in sound. The 600's may have a slight emphasis on upper midrange, whereas the 650's have a slight emphasis on the darker tones... lower midrange. The 580's, I haven't heard, but I think you mentioned have nearly the same drivers as the 600's...
  
 My opinion - both headphones will sound "crappy" with lower end amps, but the 600's fair better in this regard... the 650's will sound unexciting, dull, and very laid-back/missing detail without a good amp. As you increase the quality of the amp, the headphones start to really shine and sound better and better. Eventually, the bass has punch, the midrange is extremely luscious, and the top end starts picking up details. The imaging never gets anywhere as good as the AKG K702s, or the HD-800s... and the lack of speed/ability to reveal all the details like planar or more expensive headphones will never be there. These are reasons people call them "dark" and laid-back, which I would agree with... even if they're properly amped. I myself have purchased higher end headphones, and sold them. For me, it's a romance affair with the midrange, and my ears never feel assaulted after 6-8 hour listening sessions.
  
 Enter the Amperex tubes... which have an overall warmth and midrange tonality that I feel is superb. The American JAN 7308's sound spectacular... here are my thoughts on them:
 "I am ENAMOURED with the Amperex JAN CEP white label 7308. Wow.. what a presentation for this tube. I am in love with the overall atmosphere I'm hearing from this. It's like a Holland Miniwatt, only with what I perceive to be a bit more atmosphere, and a bit drier sounding... I don't really know how to describe the sonic difference. Less of the Holland midrange perhaps, but the addition of some sonic atmosphere... maybe a bit more sparkle on top? I love this tube. Just bought a couple more... I think it's right up there with my Holland Miniwatt's."
  
 Just for the sake of reference purposes... here is info from the tube I was speaking of:
 VR5 (maybe?) *6A tested at 98/104

  

  

  
 But can be extremely overpriced... I wouldn't spend any more than $90/tube for a completely great testing NOS tube.


----------



## SirMarc

mikoss said:


> So here's the deal with the Sennheiser/Amperex synergy... in my opinion.
> 
> The 600's and the 650's are essentially very close to each other in sound. The 600's may have a slight emphasis on upper midrange, whereas the 650's have a slight emphasis on the darker tones... lower midrange. The 580's, I haven't heard, but I think you mentioned have nearly the same drivers as the 600's...
> 
> ...


Well, there you go lol. For those of you out there who don't know, the HD 580's are older 600's. The only difference is the color, they are grey, and they have plastic grills. Same drivers and all parts interchangeable. Alot of people put the 600 grills on them, and some say the grills make them sound a bit airier. I love the way they sound now so I've left the grills alone. If someone says 580's, just think 600's lol


----------



## SirMarc

I've gotten both my 7308's from upscale. First one was 60 I think, the second one I think was 70 or 80 can't remember. Both tested over 10,000 a side. After trying other tubes, I just like the 7308 the best, so I bought a spare just in case. Hopefully I'm good for 20,000 hours...


----------



## mikoss

@SirMarc - also, if you enjoy the white label US made 7308 tubes, may I recommend the Hamburg E88CC tubes... while doing my reviews a couple of days ago, I put the Hamburg tube in after the US 7308 and I found it had a very similar sound... only it wasn't as dry sounding. The mids had a more fleshed out tone, and the bass was still very strong.
  
 The Hamburg E88CC reminded me of the Siemens tubes that @NCSUZoSo was rolling (at least the Siemens that I'd heard, which are the grey shield, early production ones)... very satisfying to hear. They also retain that atmosphere of the US tube... I would say the top end is a bit unrefined and raw, but hey they're pretty damn nice sounding E88CC's.
  
 Here is a shot of the one I've been using in the T1, to feed the Woo. I feel that the Holland Miniwatts in the Woo are smoothing out the rawness of the Hamburg tube... but still retaining the atmosphere.
  
 Valvo Hamburg E88CC red label... 7L3 production D6E2 date - unsure if this is '66 or '76 because it has a dual supported A-frame, flat disc getter. Very odd for Philips to have the fourth production code on a tube made in the '70s. I would think this was made in '66 and the Hamburg plant decided to mess things up by not coordinating their production codes with the Heerlen or Suresnes plants. Also, note the amount of flashing... reminds me of Siemens tubes. 
  
 Also, I prefer this tube to the US one. Take all of my above comments with more warmth in the midrange.


----------



## SirMarc

What do they run? Unless they're very cheap, I need to take a break for a little while. Just dropped 6 bills on my frigging turntable plus amother couple hundred on vinyl. My wife's ready to stab me to death lol


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> What do they run? Unless they're very cheap, I need to take a break for a little while. Just dropped 6 bills on my frigging turntable plus amother couple hundred on vinyl. My wife's ready to stab me to death lol


 
 As far as I can see from searching, looks like they run from $90 to $125.


----------



## SirMarc

Maybe later then lol. You picked up the 600's already? Glad you're digging them man. I love the synergy with this set up. I've found that some hi rez files sound close enough to my vinyl rig that laziness wins out lol. 16/44 rips don't really compare though...


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Maybe later then lol. You picked up the 600's already? Glad you're digging them man. I love the synergy with this set up. I've found that some hi rez files sound close enough to my vinyl rig that laziness wins out lol. 16/44 rips don't really compare though...


 
 Nope not yet. But I'm looking into it for sure.


----------



## tonephile

In my search for a replacement power supply, I've emailed both Aune and HiFi DIY with no response yet. 
  
 In the meantime, I did open the broken power supply and it's literally a transformer with two wires in and three wires out, no other circuitry. It should be pretty straightforward building a replacement. I've been looking for a source for a 110V to 15VAC, 0, 15VAC transformer and haven't had any luck. Please let me know if you know a source. 
  
 I did pull out the multimeter today and measured the pins on the connector. It's measuring almost 19VAC on the outer pins relative to the center pin.
  
 Some questions because I don't know much, but am stupid enough to try dangerous things:
  
 1. Would an 18VAC, 0, 18VAC transformer work just as well, these seem much easier to source?
  
 2. Stock power supply is rated a 0.8A, will a transformer that's rated for more current be okay as well? 
  
 I am in contact with http://www.swagmanlab.com, who did get back to me and said they could build me a power supply as well. 
  
 Any thoughts?


----------



## tonephile

Since I'm here, I'll add some general thoughts on the Aune T1. 
  
 I did compare the T1 to the Peachtree Audio Nova and the Wadia 121, I had at the time. I ended up keeping the Aune T1. I liked the T1 better than the Nova. The Wadia 121 was better overall than the T1, but not enough for me to justify keeping it and for other ergonomic reasons. I can elaborate if anyone wants to know. 
  
 Recently, I did connect the T1 to the two external headphone amps I have around, a FiiO E09K and a TTVJ Fet-A. Both elevated the sound by a considerable degree. I wholeheartedly agree with what others have said on the thread, the T1 is improved by the addition of a dedicated amp. This has proven to be more the case with my current headphones, Massdrop AKG k7xx. The onboard amp on the T1 is not quite up to driving these properly. Volume is adequate, but always noticed an slight edge and graininess that's gone with the outboard amps.


----------



## mikoss

tonephile said:


> In my search for a replacement power supply, I've emailed both Aune and HiFi DIY with no response yet.
> 
> In the meantime, I did open the broken power supply and it's literally a transformer with two wires in and three wires out, no other circuitry. It should be pretty straightforward building a replacement. I've been looking for a source for a 110V to 15VAC, 0, 15VAC transformer and haven't had any luck. Please let me know if you know a source.
> 
> ...


 
  
 1. Yes - 110V primary winding and a 36V secondary winding, center tapped to create the 18V 0V 18V secondary.
 2. Yes - as long as you can put out 0.8A on the secondary, you're fine. eg. a 30W transformer, or you could go higher.
  
 The stock one should be fairy cheap from Aune, whenever they get back to you.
  
 What happened to your original transformer? Did you have a short circuit that killed one of the windings?


----------



## mikoss

sirmarc said:


> What do they run? Unless they're very cheap, I need to take a break for a little while. Just dropped 6 bills on my frigging turntable plus amother couple hundred on vinyl. My wife's ready to stab me to death lol


 
 lol harsh! They occasionally sell for cheaper... I'll give you a PM if I see more cheap ones listed. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261775316969


----------



## SirMarc

mikoss said:


> lol harsh! They occasionally sell for cheaper... I'll give you a PM if I see more cheap ones listed. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261775316969


Thanks. The pictures you posted of the 7308 I thought I saw 75? Mine are from 66 and 67. I wonder how different they sound. With these American tubes the numbers are week and year


----------



## SirMarc

I had it backwards, year then week. So the 45th week of 1966


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> Exactly my thoughts on the Siemens vs Amperex tubes...
> 
> Siemens have deeper bass with more punch, and more sparkle on top. Overall, more transparent sounding until you start comparing the very best Amperex tubes to Siemens, where they start sounding very similar to each other. Siemens to me sound extremely transparent as you move up to E188CC's and then to CCa tubes. Imaging and micro-detail get better.
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 So I just came across this on: http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm  in the "A Note About Amperex 6922 and Bugle Boy Tubes:" section.
  
 "They also NEVER made a 7308 or E188CC with the Bugle Boy on the box OR glass. In this family of tubes, only the 6DJ8 had the cartoon tube on the glass, but again, never on the box."
  
 So... is this incorrect or is this not a genuine 7308/Amperex??  You take anything you read off the internet with a grain of salt of course, but they sound pretty confident on that.
  
 Maybe that is why there is a large sticker Tektronix sticker on it?
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/400859053858


----------



## mikoss

Can you find any batch or date code info on your tube? That would be most helpful. 

The 7308 Holland tubes have VR batch codes, so if it has a different batch code, it may be a 6922. The "7308" printed on the glass looks like the same font on an HP branded Holland 7308 I recently bought... 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=231159884166

But yes, this would be the first bb I've seen on a 7308.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Is the green lettering towards the bottom the batch?  I was trying to show without a doubt it is a Bugle Boy first of all and I finally succeeded after some time in CS6 and many pictures, lol.
  
 This image has been altered to try and focus the insanely hard to capture logo behind the sticker, so it doesn't look like that exactly.
  
  

  
  
 You need to look at the original size image (click on it -> original) to really see the BB logo.
  
  
 The green print says: 3K4  (with that symbol)
  
 I can't find the other one like VR or 7L, shouldn't it be right near by the other numbers?


----------



## mikoss

I see the delta3k = holland probably '63. The VR or 7L would be above that. Just on my cell so can't really zoom in.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Found it, it is VR, so this is an E188CC BB   
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
  
 It took me literally 10 minutes and a good flashlight.  You have to hit the tube with the light at the exact angle to show the etching and there it is.  The tube that doesn't exist, haha.
  
 I'm not sure how I would ever be able to get a picture of it though, you can only see it in person and you'd need good eyes.  Unless there is some trick to show etchings that have been wiped off and only leave the grooves.
  
 I'd say $74.99 is a pretty good deal for this tube that tests: 10,600/11,400 µmhos ~ 11.0/12.0 mA  (12.5k/12.5k ~ 15/15mA = 100%)
  
 So I guess the full description of the tube is: 1963 Amperex Holland 7308 Bugle Boy


----------



## mikoss

My T1 seems to have developed a channel imbalance issue... the left channel is higher than the right until the volume is about halfway... I wonder if this is just more noticeable with certain tubes, or if it's just messed in general. Anyone know if this is caused by the volume potentiometer, or is it some other problem (such as the amp circuit)?
  
 Halfway is too loud for my ears. I wouldn't mind replacing the pot, if it's easy enough... I would also really enjoy buying a higher quality product that doesn't become broken, but sounds as beautiful as the T1. Sigh.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
  
 edit: tried other tubes... still has the problem. PS. If anyone wants a nice tube on a budget, go with a PCC88... currently listening to a Philips PCC88 with a very weird looking factory code. Sounds very nice. This one was $25 and I imagine they can be had for much cheaper. Here is a screenshot from an eBay listing with a PCC88 that has the same factory code as mine... any idea what factory this came from? It looks like a weird circle with a dot in the middle. *Looks like Ei Yugoslavia made tubes.*


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> My T1 seems to have developed a channel imbalance issue... the left channel is higher than the right until the volume is about halfway... I wonder if this is just more noticeable with certain tubes, or if it's just messed in general. Anyone know if this is caused by the volume potentiometer, or is it some other problem (such as the amp circuit)?
> 
> Halfway is too loud for my ears. I wouldn't mind replacing the pot, if it's easy enough... I would also really enjoy buying a higher quality product that doesn't become broken, but sounds as beautiful as the T1. Sigh.
> 
> ...


 
  
 I would bet money it is your dip switch/es.  Put it at all gain options and see if the imbalance remains at every setting.
  
  
 Edit: Oh wait, you aren't using the internal amp are you?


----------



## mikoss

ncsuzoso said:


> I would bet money it is your dip switch/es.  Put it at all gain options and see if the imbalance remains at every setting.
> 
> 
> Edit: Oh wait, you aren't using the internal amp are you?


 
 Using just the hp amp... dips are both at zero.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Try all positions and see what happens.  Do you have any experience with soldering irons?  Also if the DIP Switches change nothing pull the amp PCB out and look for any burnt components.  With how the gain is setup, if one resistor burned out it could cause this.  It seems a few people have had issues with the amp PCB so it is worth checking.


----------



## tonephile

I had this issue early on with my first T1. It was the actual volume pot. I returned to Amazon since it was within the return period.


----------



## mikoss

Yeah I'll see if I can find a better Alps made pot or something. Just odd it was never a problem before... I'm going to meter it out tonight and see how unbalanced the readings are, if I'm able to get my meter leads onto it...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

If the imbalance is consistently equal through the entire volume sweep, it's probably not the potentiometer.
  
 That is what I'd check before buying another one.
  
 Using a VMM is probably the best idea though.


----------



## mikoss

Yeah I just happen to have my old T1 up at work with me as well, so I'll check both pots for resistance tonight. Forgot my meter yesterday


----------



## audioisemotion

Hi all,
 I previously upgraded my caps and got distortion and had to turn my digital volume down to about 20%. (read previous posts)
  
 I was stuck there for months but in truth I gave up trying to increase the volume. Then one day I tried it and it was fine. The caps had burnt in and things were back to normal (where normal was a huge improvement).
  
 Strange but it has changed the valves I prefer, I currently love a Miliwatt PCC88. Low distortion wide frequency responce and a totally believable soundstage. The soundstage is the most suprising thing, so flat between the ears yet deep and wide.
  
 I was just in a phase of changing every valve I have and this one just stood out by miles.
  
 Before the capacitor upgrade I prefered others but now it's changed.
  
 It sounds creamy. Vocals and strings and horns sound organic, more honest and beleivable.
  
 I use the rca out to a Mosfet v3 from neco_soundlab on ebay. Into my heavily moded Grado 325i's (large cups, all holes punched, blue tack on magnet, thin rubber dampening round inner metal rear, remove metal wire on outer and mesh on inner and replace with bits of.. wait for it.. small circles of ladies tights.  The ladies tights on the inside made a huge difference. The mesh Grado use to stop crap getting into the diaphram from your ear are far too restrictive to the passage of air. Let everything breath and you will be amazed how much detail is being lost.
  
 The mods and the Mosefet give a rasor sharp soundstage with great separation.
  
 I recommend this combination and modes without reservation, I love it every time I listen.
  
 As Coil would say, this is my opinion of course.


----------



## joeq70

audioisemotion said:


> Hi all,
> I previously upgraded my caps and got distortion and had to turn my digital volume down to about 20%. (read previous posts)
> 
> I was stuck there for months but in truth I gave up trying to increase the volume. Then one day I tried it and it was fine. The caps had burnt in and things were back to normal (where normal was a huge improvement).
> ...



That's really cool! What caps did you put in?


----------



## creatip

audioisemotion said:


> Hi all,
> I previously upgraded my caps and got distortion and had to turn my digital volume down to about 20%. (read previous posts)
> 
> I was stuck there for months but in truth I gave up trying to increase the volume. Then one day I tried it and it was fine. The caps had burnt in and things were back to normal (where normal was a huge improvement).
> ...


 
  
 Yes, in my experience, in the burn in time, the sound could even described as 'hilarious'. First time modding, I used Cerafine caps, the sounds were 'digital', almost 'robotic' even. Second time modding, I used Silmic, if I remembered correctly, the sounds were very 'centered', almost no soundstage.
  
 The process itself is kinda interesting to me, how yesterday it sounded hilarious, then today the very same thing sounds good. I bet some hardcore cap modders enjoy this as well..


----------



## rovopio

creatip said:


> Yes, in my experience, in the burn in time, the sound could even described as 'hilarious'. First time modding, I used Cerafine caps, the sounds were 'digital', almost 'robotic' even. Second time modding, I used Silmic, if I remembered correctly, the sounds were very 'centered', almost no soundstage.
> 
> The process itself is kinda interesting to me, how yesterday it sounded hilarious, then today the very same thing sounds good. I bet some hardcore cap modders enjoy this as well..


 
  
 if you had mod your aune t1, does Aune accept your burned aune t1 warranty claim?


----------



## audioisemotion

Caps are
 nichicon nka-240 3300uf 25v x2
 black gate std 47uf 50v x2
 elina cerafine 470uf 25v x4
 bought from http://www.hificollective.co.uk


----------



## audioisemotion

My Aune T1 was over a year old before I opened it up.


----------



## creatip

rovopio said:


> if you had mod your aune t1, does Aune accept your burned aune t1 warranty claim?


 
  
 No, and I never expected them to do that anyway. I accepted the risk that the warranty would be void as soon as I tamper with it (naturally, as with other products).
  
 Fortunately, the one I wrecked was the headphone amp part, not the main PCB. So I just ordered the replacements (I wrecked 3 PCBs before succeeded on the 4th)


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Joined the club today! I'm going to use the T1 with my speakers set, so how do I bypass the amp in the T1? Thanks in advance


----------



## rwpritchett

Use the RCA out Jacks on the back to bypass the Aune amp.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Thanks I did it. Now it's time to replace the stock tubes.


----------



## audiofrog

I just received a tube I purchased on ebay. 
  
 See description below:
 NEW DOUBLE TRIODES NOS 6N23P = E88CC = 6DJ8 Voskhod Russian Soviet Valves tubes
 Soviet tube 6N23P is analog of E88CC, 6DJ8. Military equipment. Made in Voskhod factory. The product of the highest quality. Not tested, sell AS IS.
  
 It sounds all distorted.  I have another Rocket that I put in and it sounds fine- so its not the Aune that is the problem.  Is there a type of burning in period?  Did I get a lousy tube?  Help please 
  
 -AudioFrog


----------



## joeq70

audiofrog said:


> I just received a tube I purchased on ebay.
> 
> See description below:
> NEW DOUBLE TRIODES NOS 6N23P = E88CC = 6DJ8 Voskhod Russian Soviet Valves tubes
> ...



Maybe someone with more direct experience can chime in here, but I read about this one guy who loves the 6n23p who orders a ton on ebay. He has to throw out a LOT of them because they are junk. (I think I read he tosses out like 7 out of 10 tubes). It sounds like maybe you got a bad tube. :/


----------



## creatip

audiofrog said:


> I just received a tube I purchased on ebay.
> 
> See description below:
> NEW DOUBLE TRIODES NOS 6N23P = E88CC = 6DJ8 Voskhod Russian Soviet Valves tubes
> ...


 
  
 It's most probably wrecked. I had one like that, same Vokshod. Ordered a pair, 1 got chipped 'nipple' (what do you call that pointy thing at the top), and it sounded like a wrecked amp. 
  
 Tubes are unbelievably fragile. I got a gold pin Genalex that was working fine, dropped it from 3 feet high, and it's wrecked. No fractures, no visible lose contacts inside, just wrecked....


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Got a pair of 6CQ6 that survived the flight from Hanoi to Singapore. In Singapore I moved house and suddenly one of them is dead. "No fractures, no visible lose contacts inside, just wrecked...."


----------



## SirMarc

I'm super careful with mine. Soon as I pull one out, it goes straight in the box. I can be a bit anal though lol...


----------



## SirMarc

Has anyone heard the headphone out on a rogue audio Sphinx? Thinking of picking one up. Worst comes to worst, I'll use the pre outs to my Asgard 2


----------



## mikoss

If your tube sounds distorted, it's also worth a shot to clean the pins of the tube. Use baking soda, water and a toothbrush. Alternatively, use alcohol and q-tips. Swab the pins only, avoid getting alcohol anywhere else as it will wreck plastic. Use water and q-tips afterwards to clean the pins. 

I've rescued some tubes this way. Do not get lazy and file away the surface of the pins. This is a terrible way to clean them. It works, but causes the pins to become smaller and not make proper contact. 

Good luck


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

mikoss said:


>


 
 I'm sorry for not getting your point completely (I'm not a native speaker), but what you meant was to clean the tubes from the top to the bottom of the pins and not letting the alcohol touch the plastic?


----------



## joeq70

williamleonhart said:


> I'm sorry for not getting your point completely (I'm not a native speaker), but what you meant was to clean the tubes from the top to the bottom of the pins and not letting the alcohol touch the plastic?


 
 He is saying remove the tube from the T1. Then, take the tube and carefully clean the 9 pins on the bottom of the tube. Make sure the pins are completely dry, then try the tube in the T1 again to see if it helped.


----------



## creatip

Alcohol isn't hazardous to plastic. Perhaps he was talking about the baking soda that's hazardous to plastic. 
  
 Acetone however, is deadly to acrylic


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Thanks for the clarifications.
  
 Btw what tubes would give the most natural, analogue sound to the T1? I'm hoping to re-live the era of vinyl with my T1 and speakers


----------



## mikoss

creatip said:


> Alcohol isn't hazardous to plastic. Perhaps he was talking about the baking soda that's hazardous to plastic.
> 
> Acetone however, is deadly to acrylic



Ok, just reiterating warnings I've read on other threads about alcohol. I find most of it evaporates quickly either way, but I still rinse mine with water.


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> Ok, just reiterating warnings I've read on other threads about alcohol. I find most of it evaporates quickly either way, but I still rinse mine with water.


 
  
 Perhaps the guys in those threads confused isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) with acetone. They're both clear solutions, and good for cleaning stuffs. The difference is, acetone is extremely deadly for acrylic. It's used for 'acrylic glue', which technically melt the contact surfaces, and fuse them together. 
  
 Trivia fact: acetone is very good for undoing power glues, because those glues are acrylic based. If you got power glue in your hands, just rub acetone on them, and the glue will turn into jelly


----------



## mikoss

Thanks for the info @creatip. Cleaning tube pins can be a real chore... I have the best experience with using alcohol and qtips and then baking soda and water and a toothbrush. It sucks having distortion with tubes!

lehoang - your tube question is very tough to answer. It really depends on your ears and your gear. This thread has many suggestions... GE "smoked glass" tubes, Amperex "orange globe" or 6922 pq or 7308, Siemens German made tubes, or Telefunken tubes. Those all are popular. 

I would say probably Telefunken, but they are expensive. Other tubes sound great for cheaper.


----------



## Hansotek

joeq70 I don't know if you got your HD600 yet, but I just saw this pop on the deals thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/692119/the-deals-discussion-thread-read-the-first-post/13065#post_11376990


----------



## joeq70

hansotek said:


> @joeq70 I don't know if you got your HD600 yet, but I just saw this pop on the deals thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/692119/the-deals-discussion-thread-read-the-first-post/13065#post_11376990


 
 I did actually! I got a good deal on them locally. I reterminated and dressed up the cable a bit. Here they are:


----------



## theblueprint

How does the HD600 pair with your new Aune/Schiit stack? Those are going to be my next headphones, after constantly hearing how they pair well with the Asgard 2. 

Yeah, I got the Asgard 2 a week ago and am loving the upgrade from the T1. Definitely bringing more out of the HE400's potential. I also tried the Gold Lions (as recommended by several of you guys) and found the sound to be overly warm with the Asgard. I swapped out the tube for an Amperex 6922 and it worked perfect with my new setup.


----------



## Hansotek

joeq70 said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > [@=/u/59845/joeq70]@joeq70[/@] I don't know if you got your HD600 yet, but I just saw this pop on the deals thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/692119/the-deals-discussion-thread-read-the-first-post/13065#post_11376990
> ...



Nice!


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> I did actually! I got a good deal on them locally. I reterminated and dressed up the cable a bit. Here they are:


Cool, what tube are you liking with them?


----------



## SirMarc

Any difference with the cable? I use a 650 cable on mine


----------



## SirMarc

theblueprint said:


> How does the HD600 pair with your new Aune/Schiit stack? Those are going to be my next headphones, after constantly hearing how they pair well with the Asgard 2.
> 
> Yeah, I got the Asgard 2 a week ago and am loving the upgrade from the T1. Definitely bringing more out of the HE400's potential. I also tried the Gold Lions (as recommended by several of you guys) and found the sound to be overly warm with the Asgard. I swapped out the tube for an Amperex 6922 and it worked perfect with my new setup.


You find the gold lion too warm? That's the tube I throw in when a recording is too warm lol. Different ears/cans I guess...


----------



## joeq70

theblueprint said:


> How does the HD600 pair with your new Aune/Schiit stack? Those are going to be my next headphones, after constantly hearing how they pair well with the Asgard 2.
> 
> Yeah, I got the Asgard 2 a week ago and am loving the upgrade from the T1. Definitely bringing more out of the HE400's potential. I also tried the Gold Lions (as recommended by several of you guys) and found the sound to be overly warm with the Asgard. I swapped out the tube for an Amperex 6922 and it worked perfect with my new setup.


 
  
 I love it. The T1/Asgard 2 sounds outstanding with the HD600. Although, you really do need to let the Asgard 2 warm up for about 15 minutes for the sound to come alive. Also, make sure to use the high gain setting. Additionally, the tubes give you a lot of versatility with the end result.
  


sirmarc said:


> Cool, what tube are you liking with them?


 
 I mainly use the Miniwatt Dario E188CC. I gives me an extremely smooth and full sound. It sounds really nice and a bit warm. I also use the Genalex Gold Lion sometimes, when I want both more treble and more bass (though it is a thinner sound overall).
  


sirmarc said:


> Any difference with the cable? I use a 650 cable on mine


 
  
 The cable on mine is an HD650 cable that I reterminated and dressed up with techflex. The purple sounds great!


----------



## SirMarc

I honestly feel that for the money this set up is pretty hard to beat...


----------



## SirMarc

Upgradeitis has been pretty much cured with this rig. Wish I could say the same for my vinyl rig lol.


----------



## SirMarc

Tip to Asgard owners: I've always heard it's best to just leave class a amps on. Supposedly its hard on the circuit to be powered on and off constantly. Upside is its always ready to go lol


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Tip to Asgard owners: I've always heard it's best to just leave class a amps on. Supposedly its hard on the circuit to be powered on and off constantly. Upside is its always ready to go lol


 
 Interesting. Leaving it on permanently seems kinda ridiculous, but as it turns out, I did leave mine on all night last night on accident and went to listen today it sounded outstanding!


----------



## teb1013

sirmarc said:


> Tip to Asgard owners: I've always heard it's best to just leave class a amps on. Supposedly its hard on the circuit to be powered on and off constantly. Upside is its always ready to go lol







joeq70 said:


> Interesting. Leaving it on permanently seems kinda ridiculous, but as it turns out, I did leave mine on all night last night on accident and went to listen today it sounded outstanding!




I have heard that this can be done with an SS device, but you don't want to leave the T1 on all the time. The tube has a limited life. I don't think that tube equipment should be turned on and off repeatedly. as long as I plan to be listening for several hours I leave it on, even I must be called away for a while.


----------



## SirMarc

teb1013 said:


> I have heard that this can be done with an SS device, but you don't want to leave the T1 on all the time. The tube has a limited life. I don't think that tube equipment should be turned on and off repeatedly. as long as I plan to be listening for several hours I leave it on, even I must be called away for a while.


We're talking about the Asgard 2 amp. I don't leave the t1 on. Spent too much on tubes lol


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Been away from my audio stuff for about a week, but now I am back.
  
 BTW, here is a comparison shot of the Amperex Holland 7308 and the Siemens 6922.  I thought it was pretty interesting comparing the two (at full size) to see the differences in the tubes.


----------



## mikoss

So the Amperex is taller? If so, it could be one of the older "tall tube" style perhaps. They're more sought after. I'll post a pic of the difference myself as well.

From left to right:
Phillips Holland (marked Valvo) CCa tube, circa 1973
Siemens and Halske 1960's grey shield E88CC
Amperex Holland 6922PQ 1959 d getter tall tube.

Notice the difference in height.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I'm not sure, I'll take a flat pic showing the exact heights in a little while.


----------



## joeq70

Hey all. Been a bit since I posted impressions. I decided to sell the Asgard 2 because I like the built in T1 amp "enough" and would like to try other things.

I spent some time at my favorite HiFi store today listening to DACs and amps (paired w my T1) into my HD600.

The Headroom BUDA sounded really nice and full and powerful with the Miniwatt but I think the bass energy would fatigue my ears over time (I think other people might really like this setup though). The other tubes (rocket logo and Gold Lion) were good not great.

The Creek OBh11 was ok, the Creek OBh21SE was pretty crummy.

When using the Gold Lion and pairing with the Sennheiser HDVA600, holy crap the sound is cool. Veeery intimate, crazy holographic sound with wide soundstage and precise instrument separation. I like this combo a lot. The miniwatt and rocket logo were good too but not like the gold lion.

I also gave the T1 a break and plugged in the Headroom DAC over USB, using the BUDA as an amp. The sound was ok but a little too thin. It lacked that something special that I look for in a DAC.

I also tried the Marantz HD-DAC1 via USB and used its integrated amp. This is a veery nice looking and sounding unit. The sound is a touch warm, but still clear, black background, nice bass extension. The only thing I don't like is the vocals are a tad less forward than I like. I can definitely see someone living with this kit happily.

So yeah, T1 with Genalex Gold Lion tube into the HDVA600 is the coolest thing I've heard in awhile. Now, if only I could find a Chinese made HDVA600 clone for a third of the price...


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> Hey all. Been a bit since I posted impressions. I decided to sell the Asgard 2 because I like the built in T1 amp "enough" and would like to try other things.
> 
> I spent some time at my favorite HiFi store today listening to DACs and amps (paired w my T1) into my HD600.
> 
> ...


Wish I had a headphone shop by me. Actually, its probably best that I don't lol


----------



## mikoss

Nice nice... I also auditioned the Marantz HD-DAC1 last week for a short while and heard a bit of warmth myself... sounded like a musical presentation, not analytical or harsh. I didn't get a good enough chance to really get a great feel for it, but it was also too much, imo... priced at $800 here.
  
 Funny, I was considering going the Sennheiser amp way, but the reviews I've read don't seem to really convince me it's the best way to go with HD-600/650's. After hearing my 650's with the WA2, I would be very impressed if a SS amp sounded just as good. Even a SS amp costing a bit more...
  
 PS. Listening to the T1 with a couple of pinched waist tubes the last week and they sound like a Miniwatt on steroids.
  
 Extremely detailed, beautiful warmth and crazy, crazy euphonics. Strings/guitar/percussion sound amazingly full/real. Dynamics are also improved, and overall atmosphere is superb. These tubes make me think of summer sunshine, surrounded by friends, with lots of happiness and nothing between me and the music...
  
 My favourite so far is a Holland PCC88 pinched waist from 1958... the US made 6922 I have comes in a close second. (I bought two PCC88 PW's off eBay for $80, although they are used and just barely testing as good... the 6922 US made PW was double that)
  
  
 Overall I rate these pinched waist tubes at a steal if they're tested as balanced and over 80% and $200USD each or less. They improve the sound immensely... they kick the CCa tube I have in the ass, as well as D-getter 1960 made tubes. The physical characteristic of the tube body being pinched apparently is responsible for the changes in sound. I mean, please don't buy them if you see them on eBay... they are absolutely terrible and will ruin your wallet


----------



## joeq70

mikoss said:


> Nice nice... I also auditioned the Marantz HD-DAC1 last week for a short while and heard a bit of warmth myself... sounded like a musical presentation, not analytical or harsh. I didn't get a good enough chance to really get a great feel for it, but it was also too much, imo... priced at $800 here.
> 
> Funny, I was considering going the Sennheiser amp way, but the reviews I've read don't seem to really convince me it's the best way to go with HD-600/650's. After hearing my 650's with the WA2, I would be very impressed if a SS amp sounded just as good. Even a SS amp costing a bit more...
> 
> ...


 
 Haha you are the *worst! *The black hole that is tube rolling keeps gaining strength because of you! But anyway, my experience with amps is that they do have a significant influence over the sound put out by the T1 and that some tubes just mesh better with some amps more than others. The only circumstance I'd consider the HDVA 600 is while using the Gold Lion. Otherwise, I think that amp is a bit too sterile sounding, but for some reason it's bonkers with the Gold Lion. It's not euphonic with it per se....more like crazy intense with extreme stereo imaging.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I was finally able to show the batch code (VR) on the 7308 Holland Bugle Boy.  I think it is obviously visible in the picture and I believe there is another symbol there next to the VR code.
  
@mikoss do you think this is now confirmed with this picture?


----------



## mikoss

Yesiree, good job getting it verified. Did you use a black light and that spray they use for finding blood... like on CSI or Dexter or whatever? 


Also, anyone who wants more info on the pinched waist tubes... compared with the the "premium 6dj8" 7308 or e188cc tubes, the pinched waist's are in a whole other league.

It reminds me of going from 15 years of compressed mp3's back to CD/lossless... Suddenly I hear everything I was missing all over again, but it's right across the board. The biggest change is that the music doesn't sound artificial. With solid state gear, I normally can't get over the glaring highs, or lack of the organic, smooth presentation that comes from vinyl. With tubes, things can get more "real" to me, but sometimes artificially so... overly warm, bloom, a lack of detail compared with solid state sometimes. Listening with the pinched waist, everything sounds extremely fleshed out... details are superb; I'm literally hearing more than I've noticed, but it isn't just in the top end. It's the entire atmosphere and nuances, from the bass all the way up. Bass is superb, midrange is to die for, and the detailed high end kills any other tube I've heard. I am literally rediscovering every song I play.

I will compare them to Telefunken CCa tubes when they arrive. The Tele's were a bit more expensive, but they also have a reputation of being very true to the music.


----------



## Chs177

mikoss said:


> I will compare them to Telefunken CCa tubes when they arrive. The Tele's were a bit more expensive, but they also have a reputation of being very true to the music.


 
 Tele's are pretty good for clasical/jazz music. But they are not  so good in the bass region as Valvo's on rock/metal music.


----------



## mikoss

US made one on eBay for $199...
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Amperex-6922-pinched-waist-USA-gold-pin-pq-/191535160416
  
 Too bad it isn't a Holland PW. I prefer the warmth in the midrange the Heerlen tubes have. It's also about $50 US too expensive... so I guess it's priced right for eBay.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> Yesiree, good job getting it verified. Did you use a black light and that spray they use for finding blood... like on CSI or Dexter or whatever?


 
  
  
 LOL.  Nah, I just held the flashlight in my mouth and took shots until it showed up.  The weird part is my full spectrum desk lamp doesn't show the code.  However my INOVA XO3 flashlight shows it every time and I'm not sure why.  I think it may have to do with the beam projection on the INOVA.  Is the full code VR8?
  
 Should I email http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm ?  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
 BTW, I saw a pinched waist go for under $120 the other week, but I am most definitely out of the market when it comes to tubes for a while.  I believe it was a GE or Philips.
  
   

  
 Oh I have a problem, I guess I just never tried it before, I can't output any sound through PowerDVD 14 Ultra to the Aune T1.  It should output S/PDIF, but for example with The Departed (2006) instead of using any type of DTS-HD MA down mixed to stereo it shows it outputting AC3 5.1 and for output where it normally says the bitrate, it just says "Compressed Data".  The problem is I am getting no sound at all when playing a Blu-Ray.  If I use VLC to play a movie off my local HD or NAS that is in DTS-HD MA, it plays completely fine and sounds great.
  
 Basically is anyone using something like PowerDVD to play movies and using their Aune T1 with it?  If so how are you getting it to work?  I even installed AC3Filter to try and force it to send the signal correctly, still nothing.
  
 If anyone has any ideas I am all ears.


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


> LOL.  Nah, I just held the flashlight in my mouth and took shots until it showed up.  The weird part is my full spectrum desk lamp doesn't show the code.  However my INOVA XO3 flashlight shows it every time and I'm not sure why.  I think it may have to do with the beam projection on the INOVA.  Is the full code VR8?
> 
> Should I email http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm ?
> 
> ...


 
 I know this isn't helpful but...I usually fix all of my playback, codec, etc errors by just using VLC Player. I wonder if there is Blu-Ray support in VLC?
  
 Edit:I googled it and it looks like there is support. Also, if I get bored, I may get Power DVD to see if it works for me.


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> LOL.  Nah, I just held the flashlight in my mouth and took shots until it showed up.  The weird part is my full spectrum desk lamp doesn't show the code.  However my INOVA XO3 flashlight shows it every time and I'm not sure why.  I think it may have to do with the beam projection on the INOVA.  Is the full code VR8?
> 
> Should I email http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm ?
> 
> ...


 
  
 Using PDVD 12, no problem there. SPDIF out, but very very bland stereo. Ended up using onboard, to get the trusurround (or w/e the name) sound setting, output to T1's amp.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

PowerDVD 14 actually has WASAPI built in, that is one of the main reasons I am trying to figure this out.  VLC player is my primary player for anything other than Blu-Ray, the support is just not there compared to PowerDVD in regards to Blu-Rays.  Also to play many Blu-Rays in VLC you will need a software called AnyDVD HD due to protection on the disks, such as Cinavia.
  
 If anyone has any ideas on getting PowerDVD 14 to work please let me know.


----------



## tonephile

Finally sourced a power supply from The Earth City Sound Co. I highly recommend them if you need Aune products. They were actually the most responsive of any of the Aune people (company, dealers, distributors). Never even heard back from hifidiy who are supposed to be the US distributors. This is the downside of products from China. The support is not great and I have no idea about warranty. My first T1 had noise issues and luckily I was able to return to Amazon, but if that had happened after the return period I would think getting service might be difficult. I was thinking about the Aune s16, but I'm hesitant after my recent experience.


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> PowerDVD 14 actually has WASAPI built in, that is one of the main reasons I am trying to figure this out.  VLC player is my primary player for anything other than Blu-Ray, the support is just not there compared to PowerDVD in regards to Blu-Rays.  Also to play many Blu-Rays in VLC you will need a software called AnyDVD HD due to protection on the disks, such as Cinavia.
> 
> If anyone has any ideas on getting PowerDVD 14 to work please let me know.


 
  
 Downloaded PDVD 14, out of curiosity. Everything worked fine. Set to S/PDIF sound is working, but the same as my previous post, no trutheater surround or dolby surround, just bland stereo.
  
 Reading this post again, I realized, your problem is with blu-ray, which I don't have (blu-ray drive)


----------



## theblueprint

Turns out that one of my tubes with faded markings is actually a Telefunken EE88c with a diamond bottom! Really enjoyed listening to them last night and wow, do they sound clear and spacious.

does anyone have experience with the new black diamonds?

https://tubedepot.com/products/telefunken-black-diamond-e88cc-6922?gclid=COikkLq1ssQCFVKFfgod4VUAyg


----------



## NCSUZoSo

creatip said:


> Downloaded PDVD 14, out of curiosity. Everything worked fine. Set to S/PDIF sound is working, but the same as my previous post, no trutheater surround or dolby surround, just bland stereo.
> 
> Reading this post again, I realized, your problem is with blu-ray, which I don't have (blu-ray drive)


 
  
  
 Yea, Blu-Ray is the only thing I am using PowerDVD 14 for.  It has something to do with how it handles the Blu-Ray audio and then transports it into SPDIF.  It shows "Compressed Data" when it should say 2 channels and show the bit rate.  I've done everything that is obvious like making sure DTS and all of the options are checked in the audio devices menu.  I'm not sure what is wrong and I haven't found anyone with a similar problem that is recent.  This worked on the previous version I had of PowerDVD, 12 or 13.


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> Yea, Blu-Ray is the only thing I am using PowerDVD 14 for.  It has something to do with how it handles the Blu-Ray audio and then transports it into SPDIF.  It shows "Compressed Data" when it should say 2 channels and show the bit rate.  I've done everything that is obvious like making sure DTS and all of the options are checked in the audio devices menu.  I'm not sure what is wrong and I haven't found anyone with a similar problem that is recent.  This worked on the previous version I had of PowerDVD, 12 or 13.


 
  
 Tried googling around, and turned out this is a common problem with older PDVDs, and later got fixed with patches. This might be (yet again) the same issue. Wait for a patch maybe?
  
 Or find a cyberlink's forum, or email them directly, but almost all people say their response is slow.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

So I reached out to Brent from http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm as I wanted to find out if they would agree or disagree with my findings.  This is what he has to say in regards to my 1963 Amperex Holland 7308 Bugle Boy.
  


> In 20 years of tube collecting and tube selling, this is the FIRST real Bugle Boy 7308 I have ever seen!  It appears your tube was originally imported into Canada, as it has HOLLAND etched into the glass at the top.  This was standard for all Philips/Amperex tubes that were imported or sold in Canada.  It is just possible that for some reason the Bugle Boy labels were only sold in Canada?  The Holland name sandblasted into the glass is only seen on Dutch Philips or Amperex tubes coming out of Canada.
> 
> I think, due to the extreme rarity of a real Holland made and date coded 7308 Bugle boy, that 99% of those you actually encounter are fakes from Richardson Electronics.  Your pictures do reinforce some facts that still tell the real thing from the fake:  The fake 7308 or 6922 tubes NEVER have date codes or production codes on them.  Yours does, so I will concede that you have one of the very few real Bugle Boy 7308 tubes in existence.
> 
> ...


----------



## joeq70

ncsuzoso said:


>



Time to sell it for a squillion dollars!


----------



## NCSUZoSo

LOL.
  
 If anyone wants to add some life (as in 1 post total in my thread, haha) to the thread on my tube it is here:
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/759230/the-1963-amperex-holland-7308-bugle-boy-proof-i-have-it
  
 You can see all the pictures together and it's all together and easy to recognize.  I put the thread in Full Size Headphone Amps because I didn't know where else to put a thread dedicated to a tube at.  Is there another section I should have used for talking about tubes specifically?


----------



## creatip

Guys, wanna share my recent experience.
  
 So all this time, my impression of the T1 was 'good DAC, kinda "meh" amp', right. So I was browsing around audio articles on the net the other day, and came across an article about the role of power conditioners, and EMI/RFI filter on an audio device's performance.
  
 Did some more googling about the actual device used, and found devices from small and cheap ones, to bulky and multi thousand buck ones. Obviously I'm not spending a few thousand buck on a device that I'm not familiar and had no experience with before. 
  
 I found a small, 3 pronged socket type version that are originally intended to be used for PC's PSU. Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-06GEEW3E-6-Amp-6A-120v-250V-AC-Power-IEC-Universal-Inlet-EMI-Noise-Filter-/171320435051 
  
 I found mine for less than $3, the same 6A. 
  
 I was a bit confused as to how to wire it to the 2 pronged T1's PSU power plug. I asked around on diyaudio forum, and got some great, responsive replies. 
  
 Long story short, I wired everything, taking extra care (dealing with AC main power here), and when everything ready, plug the T1 for a test run. Man oh man....the difference!!
  
 The 'wow factor' was about the same as when I did the Elna capacitors mod. The "meh" amp part turned into an amazing, clear and clean amp. Lower noise floor, that's for sure. Also the sounds got more density to it (using HE-400), punchier kicks, wider soundstage (most notable in FPS games). I drew a conclusion that the T1's amp is actually more than decent, and it's my power line setup that's detrimental to the sound output. I'm listening to songs, and still amazed, while I'm typing this. 
  
 Okay, I can accept, this may be a fact (that I really got better sounds), or just a placebo. But honestly, for a $5 mod ($3 filter + $2 power socket), I don't care which one I'm experiencing.
  
 Needless to say, if your power setup is already good enough, you might not get the same upgrade as what I experienced. If your power line setup is more or less like mine (a bit screwed up), you'll be amazed....


----------



## NCSUZoSo

A lot of us are already ready using power filtering with quality UPS units.  However power conditioners are a whole different thing, but people with a lot of quality equipment use them and I bet we have some T1 owners already using them.  I really doubt that $5 mod is better than these $500+ power conditioners. 
  
 Now for someone who doesn't have this type of equipment already this mod may be a good idea.  It may even make a difference for people using normal UPS units like myself (CyberPower CP1200AVR), but you just have to think about what is this mod actually doing and all this claims is cutting down on EMI.  This actually catches my attention on using it with some other things, like my Yamaha RX-V863 that suffers from EMI during gaming due to the high amperage pull of the PC (3770K + 970 GTX). 
  
 I wonder if you'd see more gain from getting a quality shielded USB cable like this or this.  There are a lot of ways to improve the quality of the sound I believe, but some people don't believe in spending good money on USB cables and I somewhat agree however you have to realize it IS a vital part of the signal chain.
  
 I'm definitely going to look into this mod for sure when it comes to a few of my plugs going to certain devices and I really appreciate that link.


----------



## mikoss

creatip said:


> Guys, wanna share my recent experience.
> ...
> 
> Long story short, I wired everything, taking extra care (dealing with AC main power here), and when everything ready, plug the T1 for a test run. Man oh man....the difference!!
> ...


 
  
 Interesting... I've always found the T1 to sound "nice enough" that I don't require an external amp (although there is no doubt that with an external amp, the quality certainly improves). 
  
 I've also always been running a power conditioner... mine is a rather large APC unit that I picked up second hand from someone who was moving. It does everything in my living room... the tv, speakers, cable box, computer, etc. 
  
 Here's a link to the one I'm using... http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/465428-REG/APC_H10BLK_H10_Home_Theater_Power.html
  
 The only thing I actually think would help is perhaps this feature:
Isolated Noise Filter Banks (INFB)
The H10 provides INFB technology to eliminate electromagnetic and RF interference that can negatively impact sound and video quality.
 
Also, just for general info, if you live in a country with a 110V nominal supply with the 2 prong style power connectors- the large prong is the neutral (grounded) wire, and the smaller is the "hot". The hot usually goes onto the brass coloured screw on outlets, and will give you a shock if you touch it. The neutral connects to ground in your panel and can also shock you if you're a better path for the current to return back to the transformer supplying your house. The third prong on the bottom is a ground connection and won't ever shock you. It exists for the sake of bonding anything that has metal on it to ground, so that if the "hot" wire or wiring touches the metal case of your equipment, it will be a short circuit and trip the breaker. You can certainly use metal equipment without the ground connection, however if a wire touches the metal case, it may not conduct current back to ground until you touch it and get shocked. (So the ground wire/connection ensures a path for current if something touches the case... it's just a safety feature). If your equipment is completely isolated from ground (plastic case, or double insulated), it usually won't have a third prong on the connection. The T1 has an isolation transformer with 36V on the secondary, so if something touches the metal case of the T1, it will create a short circuit on that 36V winding and either cook the transformer, or hopefully just blow the fuse inside of it.


----------



## andresattorresi

hello. first of all sorry for my English I am using a translator.

I see that everyone has good Expereiencia with AUNE T1. I can not say the same.
 source use an iMac 2011 and is far superior to aune. change the tube aune hoping for an improvement (Amperex Gold Pin usn-cep 7308 E188cc 1960's) and not notice changes.
 imac for usb connect the aune, and aune connect to my marantz PM7004 by the RCA output aune.
the operating system is not much to play on the configuration. audirvana use.
  
I'm doing something wrong? all are surprised at how good it sounds, and I find that sound good.
please help !!!!!!
thx


----------



## joeq70

andresattorresi said:


> hello. first of all sorry for my English I am using a translator.
> 
> I see that everyone has good Expereiencia with AUNE T1. I can not say the same.
> source use an iMac 2011 and is far superior to aune. change the tube aune hoping for an improvement (Amperex Gold Pin usn-cep 7308 E188cc 1960's) and not notice changes.
> ...


 
 It looks like you are using speakers. Do you use headphones? If so, what headphones do you use?


----------



## andresattorresi

I use JBL ES30 bookshelf and headphones akg K514. my problem is that I can not aune dac that has more quality than the native dac my imac


----------



## Chs177

andresattorresi said:


> I use JBL ES30 bookshelf and headphones akg K514. my problem is that I can not aune dac that has more quality than the native dac my imac


 

 Ok. What sound device you choose after plugging in the T1?
 Make sure that you are using IEC958 Digita Output Device. If you are using another device you will dramatically lost in SQ.


----------



## andresattorresi

after hearing the T1, testing the new valve 7308, the iMac is better dac.
 I have selected, the T1 in Audirvana.
 "Make sure that you 'are using Digita IEC958 Output Device. If you are using another device you will Dramatically lost in SQ."
 I do not understand, you explain me? do not know "IEC958"
 means SQ?
 thx


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Almost every MacBook (Normal and Pro) uses standard Intel Audio like you would find on any budget laptop.  I have the Realtek ALC898 chipset on my ASRock Z77 Extreme6 and it can't hold a flame to the T1 in sound quality. 
  
 You have a major problem somewhere and I bet it can be fixed.  Could you describe to us how you have your hardware hooked up.  You are plugging the USB cable in and plugging your headphones into the Aune T1 headphone output right?
  
 If you could show us a screenshot that is identical to this one, it would eliminate some questions right off the bat.
  

  
  
  
 This is a problem on your end, it's not a question of if the Aune T1 is better than what you have or not.  We'll do our best to help you fix it, but we need more info.
  
 Please provide a screenshot like the one I posted above, it's a good place to start.


----------



## andresattorresi

good, but I use OS X. Now I upload my settings audirvana. imac USB connected to T1, T1 connected to Marantz PM7004 by RCA-RCA. listen through earphones or speakers from the marantz. when I use the DAC iMac, I connect the iMac to marantz by mini-RCA plug.
  
 audirvana
 http://imageshack.com/a/img661/8752/l0JQZE.png
  
 os x
 http://imageshack.com/a/img673/2977/gLIgSi.png


----------



## andresattorresi

good, but I use OS X. Now I upload my settings audirvana. imac USB connected to T1, T1 connected to Marantz PM7004 by RCA-RCA. listen through earphones or speakers from the marantz. when I use the DAC iMac, I connect the iMac to marantz by mini-RCA plug.
 The moderator will not let me upload links or images


----------



## hdtv00

What setting on the Marantz, because if it's not set to some pure audio or direct mode then it's altering the input with it's own DAC, Like I have mine hooked up to my Onkyo sometimes but when I do I have to run it in either Pure or Direct mode or the Onkyo's internal DSP mess with the pure Aune T1 signal.


----------



## mikoss

Here is a suggestion, since you're on a Mac and not Windows...
  
 Click Search icon and type "Audio Midi Setup"
  
 This program lets you set up the playback settings for the T1.


----------



## andresattorresi

obviously for comparison of T1 with imac dac use direct mode. Marantz PM7004 has no dac. the problrma not come from that side. for me there is some configuration


----------



## hdtv00

*Source Direct button bypasses tone control circuits for cleaner sound*


----------



## andresattorresi

mikoss said:


> Here is a suggestion, since you're on a Mac and not Windows...
> 
> Click Search icon and type "Audio Midi Setup"
> 
> This program lets you set up the playback settings for the T1.


 
  
  
 ok, I do not know. I have to configure?
  
 http://imageshack.com/a/img909/9240/Rqwf6z.png


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I have Pure Direct on my Yamaha and I highly doubt it is going to make any difference, at least an Intel Audio vs. Aune T1 difference.  This type of feature turns off video processing and clears any DSP setting that is active, that is it pretty much.
  
 I'm not sure what Integer Mode is exactly (I read 30 seconds on it), but I don't think the T1 supports it, I'd set that to off.
  
 Also have you tried any player other than Audirvana?  Such as comparing the sound in movies or even streaming audio.


----------



## andresattorresi

ncsuzoso said:


> I have Pure Direct on my Yamaha and I highly doubt it is going to make any difference, at least an Intel Audio vs. Aune T1 difference.  This type of feature turns off video processing and clears any DSP setting that is active, that is it pretty much.
> 
> I'm not sure what Integer Mode is exactly (I read 30 seconds on it), but I don't think the T1 supports it, I'd set that to off.
> 
> Also have you tried any player other than Audirvana?  Such as comparing the sound in movies or even streaming audio.


 
 He played with itunes + bitperfect is the same. the dac imac has more quality


----------



## NCSUZoSo

andresattorresi said:


> He played with itunes + bitperfect is the same. the dac imac has more quality


 
  
 What language do you speak?  You can not tell us enough in English except to continue to say the T1 loses to stock Intel Audio. 
  
 Maybe type it out in your language and let us translate it?  Then we can read your problem in detail, hopefully.


----------



## andresattorresi

ncsuzoso said:


> What language do you speak?  You can not tell us enough in English except to continue to say the T1 loses to stock Intel Audio.
> 
> Maybe type it out in your language and let us translate it?  Then we can read your problem in detail, hopefully.


 
 lol ... I speak Spanish, I'm from Argentina.
 I tell them again.
 I have a dac aune t1 with Amperex 7308. I read in many forums good sound.
 I have an iMac mid 2011. The dac imac has much better sound quality. My question is, am I doing something wrong? settings? Connection?
 T1 users say, it has very good sound. my T1 does not have good sound !!
 thx


----------



## hdtv00

Yea that is what direct mode and pure audio mode do. If you're not using one of them while using the T1 then you're letting the receiver color the sound with it's own processing basically completely removing any benefit the tube and the T1 do, making its pointless to even be using it in such a way. Even on his which isn't a full fledged receiver it still bypasses the tone and bass control on the unit. Not saying this is his issue I'm just saying if anyone isn't using it in this manner you're doing it wrong to say the least.
  
 What would help is WHY does he think it's sounding better on the imac vs the T1. What's he hearing that he thinks is better. How is it better.
  
 Also keep in mind I don't think either JBL ES30 bookshelf and headphones akg K514 are gonna light the world on fire sound quality wise. Also keep in mind the T1 isn't really known for being a great Amp per se. The DAC part of it with tube is interesting but the amp section isn't gonna win awards. Let alone paired with a $50 tops headphone.


----------



## andresattorresi

hdtv00 said:


> Yea that is what direct mode and pure audio mode do. If you're not using one of them while using the T1 then you're letting the receiver color the sound with it's own processing basically completely removing any benefit the tube and the T1 do, making its pointless to even be using it in such a way. Even on his which isn't a full fledged receiver it still bypasses the tone and bass control on the unit. Not saying this is his issue I'm just saying if anyone isn't using it in this manner you're doing it wrong to say the least.
> 
> What would help is WHY does he think it's sounding better on the imac vs the T1. What's he hearing that he thinks is better. How is it better.
> 
> Also keep in mind I don't think either JBL ES30 bookshelf and headphones akg K514 are gonna light the world on fire sound quality wise. Also keep in mind the T1 isn't really known for being a great Amp per se. The DAC part of it with tube is interesting but the amp section isn't gonna win awards. Let alone paired with a $50 tops headphone.


 
 at first listen is better. definition, separation instrument. with T1, bass sounds are cut, the treble too.
 the comparison of both DAC I did with my marantz direct mode to not interfere. if I connect my headphones directly to T1 and iMac, it's the same difference in quality. I'm surprised at the result. (imac DAC is better)
 someone tube the same experience?


----------



## SirMarc

Maybe he has a bad, or fake tube? More likely he doesn't have the Mac set up right. I can't imagine the Mac sounding better, especially with a y cable. But then again, you like what you like, or don't like in this case lol


----------



## hdtv00

Well I won't argue with what you hear. I have seen a couple people say they didn't like that tube but Id for sure say they were the exception rather than the rule. Most people tend to like that tube. My favorite tube is my orange globe Amperex I can't remember which getter version but tubes can make a big difference in sound that's for sure.
  
 Here is my latest setup using the Aune T1 as DAC into Crack with speedball.
  


  
 To see the rest of my pics
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/hdtv00/sets/72157651442294571/


----------



## andresattorresi

The tube is fine, its not fake. Besides the 7308 i have a 6n11 and the sounds is the same. Its not about the tube's sound. Its noticeable the Mac's DAC is superior.


----------



## SirMarc

Wait a minute. Are you using the y cable into the t1? If so you are bypassing the tube and dac. The 6n11 and 7308 sound nothing alike. You need to run a USB cable to the t1 to utilize the dac and tube


----------



## NCSUZoSo

That picture confuses me.  Where is the USB input or the 2nd option of (1) aux input + (1) aux output cables.  I don't understand the setup shown.  However I am watching Basketball, haha.


----------



## joeq70

I think it's possible some people just can't hear the difference between tubes. He is a lucky man if onboard sound is good to him!


----------



## SirMarc

If you have an android phone and an otg cable, try plugging that into the t1 and see what you think


----------



## Hansotek

hdtv00 said:


> Well I won't argue with what you hear. I have seen a couple people say they didn't like that tube but Id for sure say they were the exception rather than the rule. Most people tend to like that tube. My favorite tube is my orange globe Amperex I can't remember which getter version but tubes can make a big difference in sound that's for sure.
> 
> Here is my latest setup using the Aune T1 as DAC into Crack with speedball.
> 
> ...




OOOOOHHHHH! How are you liking that combo??? Impressions please!


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> I think it's possible some people just can't hear the difference between tubes. He is a lucky man if onboard sound is good to him!


Really man lol. Imagine the money we all could have saved...


----------



## hdtv00

hansotek said:


> OOOOOHHHHH! How are you liking that combo??? Impressions please!


 
 So that's a Aune T1 for DAC into the crack w/speedball. And I'm sooooo confused now...
 Ok so I have Senn HD 560 Ovation II's(which lacked bass), HD 650's that I thought were to muddy even yea sure it's very slight to much mids, and HD 700 which were clearly to bright. Now explain to me how this setup fixed every single issue I had with each pair of headphone. I LOVE them all now, seriously. 560 has more bass it's just wonderful. The 650's have great clear highs now that work better with the mids and bass is just fine. And somehow the 700's aren't a harsh mess anymore. I liked these the least but now I don't hear that harshness they had. What the hell is going on here, am I just drinking the cool-aid or what...I'm so confused. I have a Orange globe in the T1, NOS Tung Sol 5998 and Telefunken 12au7 in the crack.
 Either way at times , which is most of the time it sounds AMAZING. I now get why Miles Davis Kind of Blue is raved about, I seriously have people in my head now playing live instruments, amazing. And some bells and what not from Bjork stuff I've heard 1000+ times blowing my mind.


----------



## andresattorresi

hear the difference. dac imac is superior. someone is mac user? I ask for that matter, I am configuring wrong? please read my previous. post

listen xiang sheng dac, I liked their sound. much better than imac dac. but T1 is ugly sound. that's what surprises me


----------



## SirMarc

andresattorresi said:


> hear the difference. dac imac is superior. someone is mac user? I ask for that matter, I am configuring wrong? please read my previous. post
> 
> listen xiang sheng dac, I liked their sound. much better than imac dac. but T1 is ugly sound. that's what surprises me


It's either configured wrong, wired wrong, or maybe you got a bad unit


----------



## Hansotek

andresattorresi said:


> hear the difference. dac imac is superior. someone is mac user? I ask for that matter, I am configuring wrong? please read my previous. post
> 
> listen xiang sheng dac, I liked their sound. much better than imac dac. but T1 is ugly sound. that's what surprises me




The onboard DACs in a lot of Macs are pretty darn good. Whether or not the T1 sounds better or worse depends very, very heavily on the tube you use.


----------



## andresattorresi

I use a 6N11 and Amperex 7308 gold pin.


----------



## Hansotek

hdtv00 said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > OOOOOHHHHH! How are you liking that combo??? Impressions please!
> ...



Argh! I totally want a Crack/Speedball, but my audio budget is SO toast right now. I'm glad to hear it is working out well for you.

I hear ya, great sources have a tendency to "magically" fix the shortcomings of some headphones. Sometimes it's an impedance spike at a certain frequency... But sometimes it's much, much harder to find the source of the "magic".


----------



## joeq70

andresattorresi said:


> hear the difference. dac imac is superior. someone is mac user? I ask for that matter, I am configuring wrong? please read my previous. post
> 
> listen xiang sheng dac, I liked their sound. much better than imac dac. but T1 is ugly sound. that's what surprises me



Maybe you hate tubes and like a more clinical sound?


----------



## andresattorresi

listen xiang sheng valve dac ($ 150 dls) I liked their sound. better sound than the imac dac.


----------



## mikoss

The Xiang Sheng looks interesting. I have no idea why a manufacturer would put the tube inside their equipment like that... right close to the PCB and components. That looks like a disaster waiting to happen...
  
 andresa - did you try changing valves in the T1? Did you find anything you liked better than the Mac with different valves? Highs, lows, mid-range, soundstage? Or does the Mac just sound completely better, even with other valves?
  
 I will plug into my girlfriends laptop later and see how it sounds feeding the WA2, compared to the T1, and also the Modi.


----------



## theblueprint

mikoss said:


> The Xiang Sheng looks interesting. I have no idea why a manufacturer would put the tube inside their equipment like that... right close to the PCB and components. That looks like a disaster waiting to happen...
> 
> I will plug into my girlfriends laptop later and see how it sounds feeding the WA2, compared to the T1, and also the Modi.


 
  
 Works for the Schiit Vali:
  

  
 Though, I can't wait to hear your findings on your girlfriend's laptop vs T1 vs modi 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.


----------



## creatip

andresattorresi said:


> listen xiang sheng valve dac ($ 150 dls) I liked their sound. better sound than the imac dac.


 
  
 The stock 6N11 really sounds a big 'meh', but 7308 should be good. Haven't tried one myself, but haven't seen a single bad review on them (7308).
  
 You could try what I tried, installing an RFI filter in between the power strip and the T1's PSU power plug. This upgraded the sound by quite a bit for me. In my specific case, what I thought to be 'already optimized performance', turned out it's not. The T1 really benefits from an RFI filter in my case. It's only $3-$10 (mine was $3)


----------



## andresattorresi

mikoss said:


> The Xiang Sheng looks interesting. I have no idea why a manufacturer would put the tube inside their equipment like that... right close to the PCB and components. That looks like a disaster waiting to happen...
> 
> andresa - did you try changing valves in the T1? Did you find anything you liked better than the Mac with different valves? Highs, lows, mid-range, soundstage? Or does the Mac just sound completely better, even with other valves?
> 
> I will plug into my girlfriends laptop later and see how it sounds feeding the WA2, compared to the T1, and also the Modi.


 
  
 I have Amperex usn-cep 7308 gold pin made in usa and 6N11 (tube stock T1), always my imac sounds better. not a sound profile. T1 dac has less quality.


----------



## penmarker

I remember some months back a guy had the same issue with his Aune T1 + Macbook pairing. He claims the Macbook sounds better than the Aune T1 DAC. I guess there's probably some truths to it, people have different preferences in sounds and they might actually be more resolving than the T1. But then again I cannot comment since I've never compared them side by side, and my memory is pretty bad.


----------



## mikoss

I thought my laptop sounded better than the HRT Microstreamer which had glowing reviews. I think that had to do with power and properly driving my headphones though. The HRT didn't sound bad, just everything that I thought was wowing me would also be there with the stock laptop. It had a decent hi-def onboard soundcard that could do 24/192, but the Aune really sounds a lot better.

Still waiting to try the Mac today in a bit.

edit:

Andresa I would love to see a picture of the tube you're using.


Just compared the Mac to my T1 and there is no comparison. Playing a vinyl 24/92 rip of Stan Getz & Charlie Byrd - Samba Triste

At first I tried the Mac and thought, wow, this sounds very good. Nice definition, very crisp, the presentation is well defined... bass, treble all present. The bass/lower midrange definition is a bit blurry to me, but the top end is very crisp, and the bass notes are present. The bass and midrange aren't thin sounding, and the treble is crisp. A nice presentation... has a decent amount of height, and soundstaging sounds about average. (Better than the soundstage on the Chinese tube with the T1 for sure).

On to the T1. Immediately, the tone sounds much more realistic. The top end was the immediate improvement that I heard. Also the soundstaging... the width is huge. Much, much bigger than the Mac. Bass is also better... it's more rich and still tight. Back to the highs, I hear reverb on the drumkit, where the stick is rim-shotting the snare. I also hear more air coming from the reed of the saxaphone that Stan Getz is playing. Wow, the guitar is way, way, way over in my right ear, and his saxaphone is starting on the far left, with the decay pushing into the right ear occasionally. The bass is pushed even further left, behind Stan. The tonality is the biggest improvement though... this sounds rich, lush, and refined. The actual vinyl on my rig has far more pops, hisses, and crackles, but does sound a bit more "wet/smooth/atmospheric" - this still sounds very organic though, and I love the ease of double clicking instead of loading the record.

Back to the Mac - let's see what may sound better... Alright, so what I take from the Mac is a crisper, flatter sound. Less fleshed out tonality, and more of just a generally crisp, perhaps refined sounding presentation. Polite maybe? The bass, and drums really don't shine the way they did with the T1 and I'm sad about that. The guitar sounds nice, elegant... and the sax is pushed over to the left side, but I can barely make out the bass. It sounds muddy to me. Less rich and tight. Also where'd my wonderful sounding snare reverb go? It's gone... I'm left with a tinny sound.

Andresa which headphones were you using? Something with low impedance? I found the HE-500's didn't sound very good with my T1, and I was met with a lot of criticism for posting about that here, but I honestly couldn't hear highs and the midrange properly with the HE-500's + T1 when I was using mine. I think maybe you have low impedance phones and the 10 ohms output of the T1 (or maybe more) is screwing with the presentation. Also, I'd like to see a picture of the tube... there have been fakes in the past.

This video captures some of the smoothness I hear on the sax with the record... a lot of the song is killed by the encoding on the video, and the soundstage is super narrow, but his record player fleshes out the bass/guitar the way the T1 does, even listening just through the Mac.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wy6bRUz5HFA
here's a full youtube version of the album, if anyone is interested... one of my favourite jazz albums https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kO1oB9fgpFc


----------



## andresattorresi

I hear that difference you hear you, but my iMac with the best sound. that's your mac? I have an iMac mid 2011
 thanks for the comparison
  
 imac -> T1 -> marantz pm7004 (direct mode) -> akg k514
          --------->                                                    -> jbl es 30 book


----------



## andresattorresi

AMPEREX USN-CEP E188CC 7308, made in USA; mid 1960's http://www.ebay.com/itm/161605611346?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

and 6n11 (T1 stock)


----------



## andresattorresi

-


----------



## mikoss

Tubes are good. Cool, maybe you just like the Mac sound  this one is a MacBook Air from fall of 2014.


----------



## joeq70

Hey, another thing I'd like to point out is that the differences between gear can depend a LOT on volume. If you listen at a low volume, that could be a factor.


----------



## SirMarc

I've found that most people can agree on what sounds 'better'. Most people just don't care as much as we do lol. My vote's on there's a problem somewhere in the chain, but who knows?


----------



## hk6230

After not listening to my Aune T1 MK1 with Amperex 7308 for awhile, it is really really nice to listen to a tube-based music again. I'm using it with my Xiaomi Piston 2 IEM.


----------



## mikoss

I don't want to derail the thread, but this might be fun. Both tracks are played off the Mac laptop.
  
 One track is recorded without the T1, and the other with the T1. Both through the same analog-digital recording gear. (which I'm sure butchered both recordings equally). Send me a PM with which recording you prefer, if you have a preference.
  
 I tried to match them in volume and everything else... once I get some responses, I'll share more info.
  
 Track 1:
 http://www.filedropper.com/track01_11
  
 Track 2:
 http://www.filedropper.com/track02_3
  
  
 PS. I wouldn't try A/B'ing or anything... just give both a listen and see which your preference is. Please PM instead of replying here.
  
 EDIT: I think they're matched better now. Try it out.


----------



## SirMarc

Lol, that's funny I just listened to both and was gonna say track one sounded more compressed than track two. What band is that? At first his voice got on my nerves, but it grew on me. It sounded pretty damn good at 320. That must sound awesome at full bit rate


----------



## mikoss

Yeah, I will set it up next week with a different track and see if I can get everything perfectly matched. It's Angus and Julia Stone , the album is called Down the Way. Every track is exceptional once you get used to his voice. That one is called Yellow Brick Road. 

Just found a vinyl copy yesterday that was reasonably priced... It goes for a decent price.


----------



## SirMarc

mikoss said:


> Yeah, I will set it up next week with a different track and see if I can get everything perfectly matched. It's Angus and Julia Stone , the album is called Down the Way. Every track is exceptional once you get used to his voice. That one is called Yellow Brick Road.
> 
> Just found a vinyl copy yesterday that was reasonably priced... It goes for a decent price.


Yeah, I can imagine that sounding awesome on vinyl. I think I'll track it down. Thanks


----------



## SirMarc

Did you ever try bringing the vta down a little on your turntable?


----------



## mikoss

sirmarc said:


> Did you ever try bringing the vta down a little on your turntable?


 
 Ahh not yet, but I will 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Re-uploaded the tracks. No peeking at them in Audacity or anything like that, haha. They're definitely different.


----------



## andresattorresi

mikoss said:


> I don't want to derail the thread, but this might be fun. Both tracks are played off the Mac laptop.
> 
> One track is recorded without the T1, and the other with the T1. Both through the same analog-digital recording gear. (which I'm sure butchered both recordings equally). Send me a PM with which recording you prefer, if you have a preference.
> 
> ...


 
 downloading !


----------



## andresattorresi

mikoss said:


> Ahh not yet, but I will
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 will send PM
  
 I listen very similar. difficult to decide quickly.
 I compared my T1 with my Mac, MUCH DIFFERENCE OF SOUND


----------



## mikoss

Hey boys and girls... A quick update... 5 responses so far. Of those, four identified their preference as the Aune T1 track, and one person preferred the Mac. 

Very astounding results actually... The person who preferred the Mac track is Andresa. 

I'm surprised the others all picked out the tubed track, but I guess I shouldn't be? Anyway I'll give it a few more days in case anyone else wants to shoot a PM my way. Then I'll let you know which is which.


----------



## andresattorresi

I will send my T1 recording a track for you to listen compression has


----------



## andresattorresi

please send me the original song


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> I don't want to derail the thread, but this might be fun. Both tracks are played off the Mac laptop.
> 
> One track is recorded without the T1, and the other with the T1. Both through the same analog-digital recording gear. (which I'm sure butchered both recordings equally). Send me a PM with which recording you prefer, if you have a preference.
> 
> ...


 
  
 What ADC were you using? I have been wanting to do this kind of recording comparison, without much of luck.
  
 What I want is kinda the same, record the sound using amp A vs amp B vs amp C, and so on. When my headphone was plugged straight to the amps, it's easily distinguishable, but when I record it, the recordings sound pretty much the same. I was using onboard's line in as ADC, VIA chip. I understand that it should sound different, considering the headphone chain is a pure analog  to analog device, as opposed to the other chain, analog to digital to analog (when playing back), but I didn't expect the results to be indistinguishable....
  
 * my attempt resulted in indistinguishable sound between ipad + Fiio E6 vs Aune (used as both dac and amp, from ipad), which is kinda crazy (that it's indistinguishable)


----------



## creatip

andresattorresi said:


> I will send my T1 recording a track for you to listen compression has


 
  
 Probably you're a 'SS person'. SS = solid state.
  
 I tried mix and matching the Aune T1 with Alo Panam stack. Aune = tube dac + solid state amp, while Panam stack is the opposite, solid state dac + tube amp.
  
 Needless to say, tried 2 combinations, tube (T1) dac + tube (panam) amp, and solid state (panam) dac + solid state (T1) amp. Tried with the owner of the panam, who's an audio guy. We both got the same general opinion. All solid state = wide and airy feeling, a bit artificial and digitalized. All tube = soundstage suffers (compared to SS), but warmer, denser, and more intimate sound. 
  
 All brew down to preferences, really....


----------



## mikoss

creatip said:


> What ADC were you using? I have been wanting to do this kind of recording comparison, without much of luck.
> 
> What I want is kinda the same, record the sound using amp A vs amp B vs amp C, and so on. When my headphone was plugged straight to the amps, it's easily distinguishable, but when I record it, the recordings sound pretty much the same. I was using onboard's line in as ADC, VIA chip. I understand that it should sound different, considering the headphone chain is a pure analog  to analog device, as opposed to the other chain, analog to digital to analog (when playing back), but I didn't expect the results to be indistinguishable....
> 
> * my attempt resulted in indistinguishable sound between ipad + Fiio E6 vs Aune (used as both dac and amp, from ipad), which is kinda crazy (that it's indistinguishable)


 
 I bought this used from someone who was selling locally... 
 http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/jun13/articles/steinberg-ur22.htm
  
 It seemed to do a good job... I've also heard some very nice recordings from Tascam gear, but it had mixed reviews.


----------



## Ooztuncer

mikoss said:


> I don't want to derail the thread, but this might be fun. Both tracks are played off the Mac laptop.
> 
> One track is recorded without the T1, and the other with the T1. Both through the same analog-digital recording gear. (which I'm sure butchered both recordings equally). Send me a PM with which recording you prefer, if you have a preference.
> 
> ...


 
  
 just sent a pm! eagerly waiting your response


----------



## andresattorresi

Yesterday I did a quick test. T1 connect my toshiba notebook via USB with WASAPI. the result, you hear different. more gain. because it can be? will be misconfigured my imac?


----------



## mikoss

PC WASAPI and Mac to T1 should sound basically identical. 

Did you configure Audio Midi Setup?
Here's a link for info...
http://ciamara.com/support/audio-midi-setup/


----------



## Live

Hi guys, I just recently purchased a pair of HD700s. Looking at the OP I noticed the OP stated he liked this amp/dac combo with his hd800 and even his 650 and 600s. Would you guys recommend the Aune T1 Mk II with my newly HD700? My other thought was to get an o2 amp and run it with my Titanium HD(as a DAC). Any suggestion/opinion?


----------



## creatip

live said:


> Hi guys, I just recently purchased a pair of HD700s. Looking at the OP I noticed the OP stated he liked this amp/dac combo with his hd800 and even his 650 and 600s. Would you guys recommend the Aune T1 Mk II with my newly HD700? My other thought was to get an o2 amp and run it with my Titanium HD(as a DAC). Any suggestion/opinion?


 
  
 It's a question of preference. There's really no way for us to tell if you'd like the HD700 + Aune T1 combo or not. 
  
 Audio is kinda like food. 'Do you think I'd like/enjoy McDonalds or not?' Hard to answer. 
  
 Best thing to do is to find a store that carries demo products and try them on before buying. Next best thing is the trial-and-error, buy it, try it, don't like it, sell it


----------



## joeq70

live said:


> Hi guys, I just recently purchased a pair of HD700s. Looking at the OP I noticed the OP stated he liked this amp/dac combo with his hd800 and even his 650 and 600s. Would you guys recommend the Aune T1 Mk II with my newly HD700? My other thought was to get an o2 amp and run it with my Titanium HD(as a DAC). Any suggestion/opinion?



Howdy, OP here. I do not like the HD700 at all but the T1 should drive it fine and sound nice with it (assuming you like the way the HD700 sounds).


----------



## ice445

Forgive me for being stupid, but how does one even use the amp section of the Aune? Isn't the front audio port for headphones supposed to be both the dac AND amp, or is it just the amp?


----------



## pr0udfish

A few months back I purchased one of these beautiful units from the US (I live in  Australia), only to blow the bloody power brick as soon as I received it (my own fault, I  was too excited to think what would happen when I plug the 110v brick into our 220v socket). Does anyone have any idea of how I'd be able to find a 220v brick?
  
 Any help appreciated.


----------



## mikoss

ice445 said:


> Forgive me for being stupid, but how does one even use the amp section of the Aune? Isn't the front audio port for headphones supposed to be both the dac AND amp, or is it just the amp?


 
 If your source into the Aune T1 is through the USB port, it will be using the DAC (tube) and amp. (You can plug in your headphones, and also something else into the RCA ouput on the T1, if you like).
 If your source is an RCA input to the Aune T1, it will simply be using the amp, which bypasses the DAC and tube. (You have to switch the input selector on the T1 to Line for this to happen).
  
  
  


pr0udfish said:


> A few months back I purchased one of these beautiful units from the US (I live in  Australia), only to blow the bloody power brick as soon as I received it (my own fault, I  was too excited to think what would happen when I plug the 110v brick into our 220v socket). Does anyone have any idea of how I'd be able to find a 220v brick?
> 
> Any help appreciated.


 
 Oh boy, your best bet is to buy from Aune directly. The transformer has a bit of a screwy secondary output winding that puts out 15V 0V 15V. It's a center tapped 30V winding... not particularly hard to build, just kind of a special arrangement. You may be lucky though and maybe just blew the fuse on it... open it up and check the fuse. If it's toast, put a new one in and the rating of the transformer is 30W, so you'd be good with a 500mA fuse (0.5A) if you're going to keep using the power adapter with a 220V-120V isolation transformer. 
  
 Or just email Candy at Aune and see if she can hook you up with the 220V version...


----------



## esolomon

I'm thinking of buying one of these on massdrop to pair with my Philips Fidelio X2's... 
  
 Anyone know if they're a good match?
  
 An InnerFidelity review for the X2's mentioned that they might not go well with an "high output impedance tube amp"; does that mean that the X2's and the Aune's won't go well together?


----------



## hdtv00

The X1 here isn't really a high output device. He's meaning like a bottlecrack/lyr2/WooAudio2 I think things along that line. Not an Aune T1 sure it has an amp but I would in no way call it a high output. He said it I assume because the X2 is a very low Impedance headphone.


----------



## penmarker

High output tube amps are those output transformer less amps. The Aune T1 is a hybrid amp, it uses a tube buffer that feeds to a solid state amp. It's by no means a high output tube amp, it should be safe. 

As for the pairing synergy, I have no idea. Cheers!


----------



## creatip

Well, according to the T1's spec here: http://www.noisymotel.com/product.asp?ProductID=449 (aune's official site is down for days), the T1 got output impedance of 10 ohms. I don't know if it's true or not, but if it's true, then yeah, might not be ideal for low impedance headphones....


----------



## creatip

ice445 said:


> Forgive me for being stupid, but how does one even use the amp section of the Aune? Isn't the front audio port for headphones supposed to be both the dac AND amp, or is it just the amp?


 
  
 Flick the switch to 'line', and plug RCA input to the 'line in' at the back, from an external DAC.


----------



## xkonfuzed

pr0udfish said:


> A few months back I purchased one of these beautiful units from the US (I live in  Australia), only to blow the bloody power brick as soon as I received it (my own fault, I  was too excited to think what would happen when I plug the 110v brick into our 220v socket). Does anyone have any idea of how I'd be able to find a 220v brick?
> 
> Any help appreciated.


 
 I have had the exact same problem. 
 Quoted from my T1 review:


Spoiler: My Story with Aune



[size=14.9499998092651px]About a year ago when i first got my T1, i had a problem with the transformer (power brick). As soon as i plugged it in, it blew up and made a bad smell. From then on i couldn't use my T1 for a month. During this month i kept emailing Aune for them to send me a replacement transformer. They never replied. I emailed them about 5 to 6 times, but i never got any message back. I even made another email because i thought that my messages weren't being sent. Until one day, i had it. Its been nearly 6 weeks and the T1's is just sitting there collecting dust, no use for it whatsoever. I emailed them, but this time i was really angry about it. I told them that i would never recommend an Aune product to anyone ever. And that they have been a big disappointment. 3 hours later, i got a reply. But even then, they said that i would have to pay $10 for the transformer, and that they cant give it to me for free. I purchased two for ($20).[/size]


 Just e-mail Aune and hopefully they reply and send you a new one. This is their e-mail > sales@auneaudio.com


----------



## Hansotek

hdtv00 said:


> The X1 here isn't really a high output device. He's meaning like a bottlecrack/lyr2/WooAudio2 I think things along that line. Not an Aune T1 sure it has an amp but I would in no way call it a high output. He said it I assume because the X2 is a very low Impedance headphone.



FYI - Lyr 2 isn't in that category with the other two amps you mentioned. Output impedance is less than 1 ohm on both gain modes. You might have been thinking of Valhalla, which is their OTL. But Vahalla 2 can even drive low impedance headphones now, with an output impedance of 14 ohm. Not to be overly corrective... Just adding to the knowledge base.


----------



## Hansotek

creatip said:


> Well, according to the T1's spec here: http://www.noisymotel.com/product.asp?ProductID=449 (aune's official site is down for days), the T1 got output impedance of 10 ohms. I don't know if it's true or not, but if it's true, then yeah, might not be ideal for low impedance headphones....



It is 10 ohm. It's not the ideal 8:1 ratio, but I've never had many complaints about using the Aune with 32 ohm headphones.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I know this isn't related to the Aune T1 (although I will use it with them), but I just got a GREAT deal on a set of like new Shure SE425s!! (~$200)
  
 I can't wait to hear these babies 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 I hope they pair well with my Cowon iAudio 9+
  


hansotek said:


> It is 10 ohm. It's not the ideal 8:1 ratio, but I've never had many complaints about using the Aune with 32 ohm headphones.


 
  
 I use them with 32Ω headphones every time I use the T1 (SoundMAGIC HP150).  Isn't the sensitivity just as or more important than the ohm rating?  My HP150s are 95dB/mW @ 1KHz (±3dB).


----------



## creatip

ncsuzoso said:


> I use them with 32Ω headphones every time I use the T1 (SoundMAGIC HP150).  Isn't the sensitivity just as or more important than the ohm rating?  My HP150s are 95dB/mW @ 1KHz (±3dB).


 
  
 It also doesn't do anything (bad) to the sound, that I know of, to my 35 ohms HE400. Experimented on this tho, I deliberately added another load to add the output impedance. Added 22 ohms resistors to each channels, making a total of 32 ohms output impedance, feeding to a 35 ohms can. Purpose? Just bored, I guess  It did do something to the sound. Hard to describe the difference, but it's there.


----------



## Hansotek

ncsuzoso said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > It is 10 ohm. It's not the ideal 8:1 ratio, but I've never had many complaints about using the Aune with 32 ohm headphones.
> ...


 
  
 They're different. The relationship between the output impedance of the amp and the headphone impedance is the *damping factor*. If the damping factor is too low, it can create unwanted resonances in the headphone's voice coil. This usually manifests as a loss of low frequency control and earlier bass roll-off. 
  
*Here's an easy way to visualize it: *
 Imagine a bass note as a truck rolling down a hill. At the bottom of the hill there is a line where the truck is supposed to stop. _Now imagine the damping factor as the brakes._ If the brakes are strong enough, the truck can stop at the line where it is supposed to. If the brakes aren't strong enough, it will coast over the line before it comes to a full stop.
  
 A damping ratio of 8:1 or greater essentially means "the brakes are strong enough to stop at the line." In reality, how noticeable or pleasurable this accuracy is, is probably somewhat subjective.


----------



## creatip

hansotek said:


> *Here's an easy way to visualize it: *
> Imagine a bass note as a truck rolling down a hill. At the bottom of the hill there is a line where the truck is supposed to stop. _Now imagine the damping factor as the brakes._ If the brakes are strong enough, the truck can stop at the line where it is supposed to. If the brakes aren't strong enough, it will coast over the line before it comes to a full stop.
> 
> A damping ratio of 8:1 or greater essentially means "the brakes are strong enough to stop at the line." In reality, how noticeable or pleasurable this accuracy is, is probably somewhat subjective.


 
  
 Oh man, this is good. Permission to copy the analogy to other topics/forums


----------



## Hansotek

creatip said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > *Here's an easy way to visualize it: *
> ...


 
  
 Go for it. Electricity isn't the easiest thing to understand. I find these sort of "high school science class" analogies definitely help.


----------



## Hansotek

Huge 6922 tube review thread just launched, for anyone who is interested: http://www.head-fi.org/t/761078/6922-tube-review-17-top-6922-6n23p-e88cc-cca-7308-e188cc-tubes


----------



## Chs177

hansotek said:


> Huge 6922 tube review thread just launched, for anyone who is interested: http://www.head-fi.org/t/761078/6922-tube-review-17-top-6922-6n23p-e88cc-cca-7308-e188cc-tubes


 

 Bob used Lyr, so experience with Aune T1 may be different.
 Just for example - Bob likes Russian tubes with Lyr and I have several (including  75' SWGP - best tube in his rating) and it sounds as "nothing special" in the Aune T1.


----------



## hdtv00

Yea true but I'd consider a Lyr 1 or 2 far above the Aune T1 even without even hearing either. Aune T1 is entry level at best I'd think. Also one thing I quickly went through that and didn't seen one mention of an Orange Globe, how in the heck do you review 6922 and not mention Orange G's. But maybe I went through it to fast I was multitasking.


----------



## Hansotek

I have both. Lyr punches in a higher weight class, but many of the tube qualities translate from one to the other, in my experience. Just posting the resource.


----------



## hdtv00

Yep I'm finding myself that Aune T1 is ok. Just ok nice step up from normal usage. Has tube so it can impact sound by what tube you put in it. But it's not an amp. I'll just say that right now. It doesn't sound or act like a power amp I always read about, but it can't for sure add texture to the sound depending on tube. Now take this like I have to the next level and add a bottlehead crack for that amp for that for real power and BAM. That's it folks. It's THE reason you keep seeing people saying crack this or crack that , next level for Senn's. Either way you slice it I'm here to tell you it does matter and it is for real. I am not rich , I in fact would go as far as to say I'm the poorest person here in the entire forum. I've taken YEARS to take a step one way or another. But I will say you're on the right path here on the forum. So so much information here on what is what and how things sound.
  
 It's up to you how far you want to take things. But I'm here to tell ya , it doesn't cost that much and you're not far away from perfection from what you're seeking. It's out there , believe.


----------



## JimmyClean

Hi, I'm a long time reader of head-fi, but this is my first post.
  
 I was wondering if anyone here knows of a tube supplier in the UK or Europe?
 I recently ordered the T1 and would rather like an amperex 7308, however everywhere i look seems to be located in the states.
  
 Shipping costs from the states to the UK is significant at $56 average by fedex. 
 Obviously the longer the journey the greater change for it to get broken too.
  
 Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## mikoss

jimmyclean said:


> Hi, I'm a long time reader of head-fi, but this is my first post.
> 
> I was wondering if anyone here knows of a tube supplier in the UK or Europe?
> I recently ordered the T1 and would rather like an amperex 7308, however everywhere i look seems to be located in the states.
> ...


 
 Sure... eBay is your best bet. Here are some from ebay.co.uk:
  
 GREAT DEAL IF THEY WORK: Mullard branded, Amperex Holland made E88CC (Long life tube, just not as strict specs as 7308):
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/e88cc-Mullard-Valve-Gold-Pins-Made-In-Holland-Rare-Tube-Cv2492-/281631925745?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41929225f1
  
 These will work for sure... Mullard branded, Amperex Holland made E88CC: 60GBP + shipping
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E88CC-MULLARD-HOLLAND-6DJ8-GOLD-PIN-NOS-VALVE-TUBE-B-/370617910615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item564a8c8557
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E88CC-MULLARD-HOLLAND-6DJ8-GOLD-PIN-NOS-VALVE-TUBE-1PC-/370617910584?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item564a8c8538
  
 Mazda branded Amperex 7308 (Made in Holland, will have nice midrange): 60 GBP including shipping (from Belgium)
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E188CC-CV4108-7308-6922WA-PHILIPS-RADIO-TUBE-VALVOLA-VALVE-AMP-ROHRE-/281486532338?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4189e79ef2
  
 Siemens E188CC (Will have a more neutral sound, compared to the Amperex tube): 50 GBP + Shipping
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Siemens-E188CC-7308-Twin-Triode-Tube-for-Audio-High-End-E88CC-CCa-NOS-/171741765735?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27fc9b6067
  
 As for other suppliers in the UK, here are some from Google:
 https://www.tube-and-valve-electronics.co.uk/wholesale/results.asp?ProdCode=e88cc&searchbutton=Go+%3E
 http://www.vacuum-tube-shop.com/index.php?url=products
  
 Also, I would never pay for Fedex... what a rip off. Use the regular post, just make sure that it is tracked and insured, if you want. I've bought over 60 tubes from eBay and never had a broken one yet. Did have one tube from a pair of 5998's that was noisy and returned to the seller. I honestly think eBay is your best bet. I live in North America and if someone ships from their local post, it usually works the best. Just gets converted to your local post when it crosses into your country, and you avoid paying excessive shipping fees.


----------



## mikoss

I would love to compare the T1 with Elna Silmic II caps to the Lyr to the Lyr2 to the BH Crack to the WA2. All with premium tubes in them, of course.
  
 I'm away from home 50% of the time and use my T1 with HD-650's... I have no desire to get a different portable amp with it at all. Sure, the WA2 adds a lot to the sound once I get home to listen, but the T1 does me just fine. What seems to help me the most is having a super quiet listening environment... I even go so far as to unplug the tiny fridge in a hotel room I'm staying in if I can. To me, it makes a huge difference having as much quiet as possible.
  
 I'm also more into the smooth, airy, warm, romantic sound than a punchy, quick, transparent presentation, so perhaps this factors in. As an example, I have Tung Sol 5998 tubes for the WA2 that I don't normally use; I prefer GEC 6080, or Tung Sol 7236, which don't seem to emphasize the power/bass like the 5998's. The 7236 tubes have a beautiful soundstage, and the 6080 tubes have magical liquid mids.


----------



## Chs177

jimmyclean said:


> Hi, I'm a long time reader of head-fi, but this is my first post.
> 
> I was wondering if anyone here knows of a tube supplier in the UK or Europe?


 
 http://www.langrex.co.uk/
 I bought several tubes from it.


----------



## JimmyClean

Thanks for the information, very helpful to me I appreciate it.
  
 I was looking at tubes on Ebay but bad experiences in the past made me wary of it.  I took a punt on the untested Mullard, fantastic if it works, if not at least I've not lost a lot.
  
 Again thanks very much for the info, I'm new to the valve amp experience and it's easy to get overloaded on info, but I'm looking forward to experimenting.


----------



## mikoss

jimmyclean said:


> Thanks for the information, very helpful to me I appreciate it.
> 
> I was looking at tubes on Ebay but bad experiences in the past made me wary of it.  I took a punt on the untested Mullard, fantastic if it works, if not at least I've not lost a lot.
> 
> Again thanks very much for the info, I'm new to the valve amp experience and it's easy to get overloaded on info, but I'm looking forward to experimenting.



No worries at all.
If you want any info, feel free to ask... There are lots of cool people in this thread. I was also going to start a Holland tubes thread specifically for Amperex/Philips tubes as they're my favorites (hence the dancing guy in clogs).
Keep us posted on the Mullard, which is actually made by Philips


----------



## allindaze

What's the correct gain to use with K7xx? I've been going with +16 and just keeping the volume about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way... I'm just afraid that's too high. What tube do you guys recommend with these AKGs? EDM sounds amazing with the stock tube but I listen to all types of music and want to get the most out of this DAC with these cans. Any suggestions?
  
 Also... is modding the caps an upgrade worth doing? I heard it's made some people feel like it sounded worse but I wouldn't mind the boost some people claimed in gave them.
  
 Thanks for all the contributions everyone has made to this thread. Great information all around =)


----------



## Hansotek

allindaze said:


> What's the correct gain to use with K7xx? I've been going with +16 and just keeping the volume about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way... I'm just afraid that's too high. What tube do you guys recommend with these AKGs? EDM sounds amazing with the stock tube but I listen to all types of music and want to get the most out of this DAC with these cans. Any suggestions?
> 
> Also... is modding the caps an upgrade worth doing? I heard it's made some people feel like it sounded worse but I wouldn't mind the boost some people claimed in gave them.
> 
> Thanks for all the contributions everyone has made to this thread. Great information all around =)




Use whatever you feel sounds best. I'd use +16 personally. AKGs are pretty low sensitivity ... Not much reason to use the low gain mode unless you're using IEMs. 

I personally feel the Dario Miniwatt 188CC (early 60's models from Harleen, Holland) is the absolute best tube match I've heard with the Aune T1. I've tested it with the K7XX, and it is great. The bass is absolutely killer... Best tube bass I've ever heard.


----------



## allindaze

hansotek said:


> Use whatever you feel sounds best. I'd use +16 personally. AKGs are pretty low sensitivity ... Not much reason to use the low gain mode unless you're using IEMs.
> 
> I personally feel the Dario Miniwatt 188CC (early 60's models from Harleen, Holland) is the absolute best tube match I've heard with the Aune T1. I've tested it with the K7XX, and it is great. The bass is absolutely killer... Best tube bass I've ever heard.


 
 Thanks for the response. I agree the 16 gain setting has been the best sounding. I hear the AKG's require a bit of power to perform well and since I'm only using the T1's amp at the time I'll keep it at 16.


----------



## xkonfuzed

Anyone have any experience with the Tesla E88CC tube?


----------



## mikoss

allindaze said:


> Also... is modding the caps an upgrade worth doing? I heard it's made some people feel like it sounded worse but I wouldn't mind the boost some people claimed in gave them.
> 
> Thanks for all the contributions everyone has made to this thread. Great information all around =)


 
 Haven't heard anyone say it sounded worse, but I guess it depends on which capacitors they used, and possibly their overall system.
  
 You can easily put the original capacitors back in if you wish... or perhaps not so easily, depending on your soldering experience. I would say the capacitor combination that myself and many others have used results in better bass, treble and overall clarity.


----------



## allindaze

mikoss said:


> Haven't heard anyone say it sounded worse, but I guess it depends on which capacitors they used, and possibly their overall system.
> 
> You can easily put the original capacitors back in if you wish... or perhaps not so easily, depending on your soldering experience. I would say the capacitor combination that myself and many others have used results in better bass, treble and overall clarity.


 
 Looks like I'll be visiting DigiKey 
  
 Did you guys get all Panasonics or some combination?


----------



## mikoss

allindaze said:


> Looks like I'll be visiting DigiKey
> 
> Did you guys get all Panasonics or some combination?


 
 Pannys for the power, ELNA Silmic II's for the rest.
link to guide via pdf
link to @creatip s info post.


----------



## allindaze

Thanks!


----------



## teb1013

chs177 said:


> Bob used Lyr, so experience with Aune T1 may be different.
> Just for example - Bob likes Russian tubes with Lyr and I have several (including  75' SWGP - best tube in his rating) and it sounds as "nothing special" in the Aune T1.




Agreed, I didn't like the signature of the Russian tubes that I tried, but I have not heard the Reflektors which he loves. With the Aune, I still find the Amperex 7308 is about the best for my taste. With the Lyr he finds the 7308 some way down his list.


----------



## mikoss

It all comes down the sonic preference at that point. The 7308 is fairly linear/balanced from bass to mids to the highs, but it has a warmth in the midrange where as I recall, Bob prefers a neutral/transparent presentation. The Amperex tubes made in Holland have warmth and euphonics... The US made ones come a bit closer to a neutral presentation in my opinion as the mids aren't as warm. I would say the upper mids are a bit emphasized on the US made tubes, but not nearly as warm as the Hollands. 

He also has Mundorf caps in his Lyr, which sound much different than the Nichicon/ELNA mix in most T1's. I would say that Mundorfs are generally preferred by people who like a faster response, less warmth and better transients. If you have tried a Siemens or Telefunken tube with your T1, and prefer it to an Amperex or Phillips, you may be in the same camp. 

I can't remember which Mundorf caps he has in the Lyr, if you browse the Lyr tube rolling thread, the info is there. (Sorry, I'm on my cell). Here is a link comparing caps... Check out the comments on the Mundorf ones for info:
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html

The one nice thing about the Russian tubes is they are generally cheaper to purchase than some of the other tubes. I have only heard two and they are not my preference. Bob is the Russian tube guru. My holy grail (for now) is the Amperex/Philips Holland pinched waist.


----------



## JimmyClean

Well the Mullard from EBay arrived this morning, the seller accepted my offer of £10 for it. It works perfectly and really makes the Aune sing, so I'm over the moon with my bargain. The bad news is I think it's got me even more interested in tube rolling... I think this is going to be expensive!


----------



## mikoss

Awesome, great news! That's a great deal for that tube. Enjoy


----------



## NCSUZoSo

A very affordable tube that I like using for gaming and it is an excellent tube overall for the price, the GE Smokie.  It doesn't stand up to a high end Siemens or Amperex in an A/B, but you can get a perfectly balanced NOS for $10 (I have two).
  
 Great deal on that Mullard though, that is actually one brand I never bought due to reviews vs. Siemens/Amperex.


----------



## SirMarc

If you can spring for a mid 60's American amperex 7308, I'd go for it. Its in most peoples top 10, and for alot of us, its an endgame tube. I get them from Upscale Audio. Not an eBay fan, so I'll pay a little more to buy from a reputable dealer
Edit: didn't notice you're in Europe, shipping is probably nasty from the states...


----------



## mikoss

Yeah that was a good deal... It's an Amperex Holland tube, just rebranded as a Mullard. 

Actual Mullards seem to be harder to come by and more expensive when they're the good ones. (Usually just have the CV military codes on them). There are a bunch of RTC branded tubes made at the Mullard Mitcham factory on eBay, but I didn't enjoy them myself. They have a single stage getter with a round dimpled top. They can be had for about $40 each. In comparison, the CV Mullards are usually over $100/tube...


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I've really fallen in love with this Amperex Holland 7308 Bugle Boy over the past 4-5 weeks.  Having audiotubes.com verify that it was the first they had seen was nice too, haha.
  
 I wonder what sort of value the tube holds, I only paid $70 and it tests 10,600/11,400 µmhos   ~  11.0/12.0 mA.


----------



## mikoss

If you like the 7308, I've found the very first few years they were produced, they sound the best. This goes for the E88CC tubes as well... If you can find these tubes with d-getters, chances are they will sound nice. The pinched waist sound even better, but they're pricey. I recently found an E88CC Miniwatt with a d-getter and the soundstage on it was very wide. It sounded markedly different than the other E88CC's I'm used to. I would love to find an E188CC with a d-getter and compare it to a pinched waist 6922. 

The E88CC was part of three tubes from an Italian seller on eBay who sold them for cheap because they were untested. I like to roll the dice


----------



## Hansotek

hdtv00 said:


> Well I won't argue with what you hear. I have seen a couple people say they didn't like that tube but Id for sure say they were the exception rather than the rule. Most people tend to like that tube. My favorite tube is my orange globe Amperex I can't remember which getter version but tubes can make a big difference in sound that's for sure.
> 
> Here is my latest setup using the Aune T1 as DAC into Crack with speedball.
> 
> ...




I'm joining you in the crackhouse! I ordered my Crack + Speedball today!


----------



## hdtv00

NICE it's a good place to be. Well cept for the wallet...
 1 Tung Sol came with my crack when I bought it on head fi
 -----------------------------------------------------------------
 2 Mullard CV4003 cryo treated $240
 1 Telefunken rib plate
 1 Telefunken smooth plate
 1 Mullard 12AU7 1950 blackburn factory
 --------------------------------------------------------------------------
 2 Tung Sol 5998 (1961)  $120
 1 Sylvania 6080WB
 1 FAA? 6AS7G
 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Western Electric 421A  $197.50
 Both triodes on this one test identical at 120% of spec
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Tung Sol 5998 322451-3  $30.00
 40 is Minimum
 Tube Tests 54-52
 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Telefunken rib plate  $41.50
   Min good is 56.  NOS is 88 tested 102/107 
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 1968 Amperex Orange Globe 12AU7A Tube; Min good is 56. NOS is 88 tested 95/93   $28.50
  
 And none of those count the 10-12 tubes I have for the Aune T1 that feeds the crack hehe. DAMN


----------



## Hansotek

hdtv00 said:


> NICE it's a good place to be. Well cept for the wallet...
> 1 Tung Sol came with my crack when I bought it on head fi
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> ...




Oh no! My poor wallet! It's still in therapy after the trauma of my HD800 purchase. :eek:


----------



## Rozenberg

Hmmm......... I think the amp part of my Aune T1 has gone defective.
 I've not used the T1 amp for a long time after getting M-Stage, but now circumstances like having no spare power supply cable for rice cooker led me to having to use my M-Stage power cable for that, and to use just the T1 while waiting for my rice to be cooked.
 But here's the problem, the sound coming from it now sounds distorted. It is by no mean smooth, sounds really grainy, like you got little buzzing along the song.
  
 The tube's not at fault here, tried to change my 6922 to the spare 6N23, still gives the same problematic sound.
 Tried cleaning the inner part of the jack, less distortion but still there.
 The T1 never leaves my desk so any damage is unlikely.
  
 Any idea why? Or does that mean I can't cook rice until I get my spare cable from my friend's house?


----------



## SirMarc

Watch TV while you're cooking rice


----------



## mikoss

rozenberg said:


> Hmmm......... I think the amp part of my Aune T1 has gone defective.
> I've not used the T1 amp for a long time after getting M-Stage, but now circumstances like having no spare power supply cable for rice cooker led me to having to use my M-Stage power cable for that, and to use just the T1 while waiting for my rice to be cooked.
> But here's the problem, the sound coming from it now sounds distorted. It is by no mean smooth, sounds really grainy, like you got little buzzing along the song.
> 
> ...


 
 Buzzing could be USB issues, or interference as well. Is it just the headphone amp, or also the RCA output? Did you try using the RCA input and not using the DAC? If the problem is just buzzing on the headphones, it could be the headphone amp. If it is on the headphone amp and the RCA output, it could be the DAC.


----------



## Rozenberg

sirmarc said:


> Watch TV while you're cooking rice


 
 Don't have TV 'cause rarely watch it.
 Could have bought 50" flat screen, but you know, audio stuffs.
  


mikoss said:


> Buzzing could be USB issues, or interference as well. Is it just the headphone amp, or also the RCA output? Did you try using the RCA input and not using the DAC? If the problem is just buzzing on the headphones, it could be the headphone amp. If it is on the headphone amp and the RCA output, it could be the DAC.


 
 Okay, surprisingly using the line in, is fine.
 So I took your first guess and unplug and plug back the USB jack.
 Now everything's fine, good to know my T1 isn't broken.
 Thanks to you now I could cook rice while listening to music again


----------



## mikoss

Telefunken CCa in the Aune T1 sounds magnificent... Sounds like a Miniwatt E188CC with more linearity, yet emphasis on the treble... Very, very natural sounding without any obvious warmth, but more musical than a Siemens E88CC grey shield tube, in my opinion. I also picked up some Siemens grey shield CCa's, so I will compare them to the Tele CCa's. 

The Tele sounds much more relaxed and effortless than the Philips tubes I've rolled, with the exception of the pinched waist tubes... They are in a different league. The Philips tubes don't sound as relaxed... they tend to warm everything up nicely, but with effort. This is what some people may describe as more "analog" sounding. Superb. 

(For comparison sake, the Phillips Miniwatt tubes average around $90+ each, Pinched waist $150+ each if you can find them, and Telefunken CCa's $200 or more each).


----------



## Hansotek

mikoss said:


> Telefunken CCa in the Aune T1 sounds magnificent... Sounds like a Miniwatt E188CC with more linearity, yet emphasis on the treble... Very, very natural sounding without any obvious warmth, but more musical than a Siemens E88CC grey shield tube, in my opinion. I also picked up some Siemens grey shield CCa's, so I will compare them to the Tele CCa's.
> 
> The Tele sounds much more relaxed and effortless than the Philips tubes I've rolled, with the exception of the pinched waist tubes... They are in a different league. The Philips tubes don't sound as relaxed... they tend to warm everything up nicely, but with effort. This is what some people may describe as more "analog" sounding. Superb.
> 
> (For comparison sake, the Phillips Miniwatt tubes average around $90+ each, Pinched waist $150+ each if you can find them, and Telefunken CCa's $200 or more each).




Not surprised. Based on my experience with the Miniwatt, it seems like this thing can scale up pretty dang far with a high-end tube!


----------



## mikoss

If you are using planar headphones with the Aune T1... I very very very very strongly recommend trying a Telefunken tube. Buy whatever you can afford... a Telefunken ECC88, E88CC, E188CC, or CCa.
  
 This tube sounds unbelievably good with planars... I am floored how good this sounds. It sounds better than me plugging my LCD-3F's into my WA2... such clarity and beautiful neutral tonality. So good... goose bumps my friends. Goooose bumppppss.
  
 Hahaha. Still trying to find the right combo for these headphones with the Aune T1 feeding the WA2... I like the Philips pinched waist tube in the T1, and Telefunken CCa's in the WA2, but the straight shot Aune T1 with Telefunken to LCD combo is winning right now.


----------



## hdtv00

Yep it's all about finding that right combo. I found mine with my HD 560 Ovation II's with Aune T1 feeding my crack. Using orange globe into crack which is using Tung Sol w/ Telefunken rib plate totally blows anything I've ever heard away. I think the 560's are better than the 650's and 700 combined. 560's only issue was not enough bass but with a crack powering things they are magical now. And you can tell just how much harder they are to power than the 650 even though both are rated 300 ohm. 30% more on power knob on the crack difference. But man oh man this is IT what I've been looking for since I bought them 21 years ago. I'm in heaven.


----------



## Nachmanowicz

What tube would you recommend me for using the Aune T1 Mk1 with Beyer DT 880 250Ohms? No super expensive tubes plz, 50 bucks is about as much as I can spend on this.
 Thanks!


----------



## hdtv00

Give people an idea what it is you're trying to change or want more of that haven't heard that headphone. Meaning you want more bass better treble for that pair something along those lines.


----------



## Nachmanowicz

Sometimes I get a buzz on voices when there's a hard bass going on. So yeah, I'd love for that to disappear. But about coloring, well neutral tends to be my choice. But since I cant heart it beforehand, I'm tending to be ok with just the best quality possible.


----------



## mikoss

There are a lot of options under $50/tube.
  
 - GE Smoked 6DJ8 is popular
 - Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 is popular
 - Also, any 6922 or E88CC is a long life tube and would last 10,000 hours on average from new.
  
 Here is a GE smoked ECC88/6DJ8:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radio-Tubes-6DJ8-ECC88-GE-NOS-/291005885372?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c14d6bbc
  
 Here is an Amperex OG ECC88/6DJ8:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-6DJ8-ECC88-ORANGE-GLOBE-VACUUM-TUBE-SINGLE-SMOOTH-SWEET-TONE-785-/321630037623?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae2a4e677
  
 Here is a long life, E88CC/6922 US made Amperex: (good price!)
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/MATCHED-PLATE-AMPEREX-6922-E88CC-USED-TUBE-TESTED-B-K-707-103-104-/281630662518?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item41927edf76


----------



## Nachmanowicz

mikoss said:


> Here is a long life, E88CC/6922 US made Amperex: (good price!)
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/MATCHED-PLATE-AMPEREX-6922-E88CC-USED-TUBE-TESTED-B-K-707-103-104-/281630662518?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item41927edf76


 
 Thanks a bunch!! So this one is the best value, I take?
  
 It's weird tho cause their shipping method is not working proper. I set the zip code in the US and it says its invalid! ¬¬ I'll have to message them. Also I have a lifelong friend in Montreal.... maybe I'll ask him for it and then he'll send me it! =D


----------



## mikoss

nachmanowicz said:


> Thanks a bunch!! So this one is the best value, I take?
> 
> It's weird tho cause their shipping method is not working proper. I set the zip code in the US and it says its invalid! ¬¬ I'll have to message them. Also I have a lifelong friend in Montreal.... maybe I'll ask him for it and then he'll send me it! =D


 
 Very hard to say what is the best... it is a good tube that you could easily re-sell for that price if you don't like it.


----------



## Nachmanowicz

Brother I live in Brazil. Not much of a market for that here.


----------



## mikoss

There are buy/sell forums here as well


----------



## GoroUnreal

Would anyone have any recommendations on the next step up from the Aune T1 MK2, mine's starting to play up and I was thinking if there was something better for a bit more money then I may look at that instead of purchasing another Aune T1. All I really need is usb and or optical connections and something that works well with sennheiser hd650s, Any info would be much appreciated.


----------



## mikoss

Do you want just a dac, or a dac with a headphone amp? What's your budget?


----------



## GoroUnreal

dac and amp i'd say (currently i'm running my headphones through a yamaha amp while the aune is playing up), although separating them wouldn't be an issue either if it's going to be a better setup. Budget probably isn't too much of an issue, considering the aune is around $200 i'd say probably another 400-500 would be a rough estimate. Just looking to see what the next step up would be, wouldn't want to purchase another aune if there's a better alternative for a bit more.


----------



## mikoss

Well, all I can say regarding the HD-650's and sources is that they scale very well, and respond nicely to tubes. Any OTL amp would probably work very well... The most famous pairings being the Lafigaro 339 or Woo WA2. Both amps are pricey, and tubes push the cost even higher.

I'd also personally recommend the Lyr/Lyr 2 as they roll the same tubes as the Aune and have plenty of juice.

Ohh, almost forgot, the Bottlehead Crack! Get it with the speedball upgrade. Final answer.


----------



## GoroUnreal

mikoss said:


> Well, all I can say regarding the HD-650's and sources is that they scale very well, and respond nicely to tubes. Any OTL amp would probably work very well... The most famous pairings being the Lafigaro 339 or Woo WA2. Both amps are pricey, and tubes push the cost even higher.
> 
> I'd also personally recommend the Lyr/Lyr 2 as they roll the same tubes as the Aune and have plenty of juice.
> 
> Ohh, almost forgot, the Bottlehead Crack! Get it with the speedball upgrade. Final answer.


 
 Great, thanks for the suggestions i'll check those out.
  
 I have been looking at the Schiit's too, would a Valhalla 2 and Bitfrost combo be a good choice as well in comparison? Also should I expect more out of the hd 650s with what you've suggested (or with the valhalla 2 and bitfrost) in comparison to the aune?


----------



## hdtv00

I started with the Aune T1 and then paired it with the bottlehead crack. I am loving life now. I doubt I ever upgrade again. The only thing I'm curious in is a WA2, I am curious about a Lyr 2 but I'm almost certain my crack outperforms that really. You can get a crack on here for sale for $350-$400 shipped at times. And look how many people call it the end game for many Sennheiser headphones, I'll tell ya there is a reason for that for sure.
  
 I could've went Lyr 2 but then trust me you'll read and then I assure you, you'll want to know what the crack sounds like, so you might as well just do it right the first time and save yourself the time and money. It's not really all that much money if you have to save up the $400 and do yourself a favor you'll never regret.


----------



## SirMarc

Anybody with a gold lion notice that it sounds excellent through speakers? I much prefer my 66 Jan 7308 with headphones, but through my denon preamp, and my dynaco integrated to speakers, the gold lion just sounds better. Its weird...


----------



## GoroUnreal

hdtv00 said:


> I started with the Aune T1 and then paired it with the bottlehead crack. I am loving life now. I doubt I ever upgrade again. The only thing I'm curious in is a WA2, I am curious about a Lyr 2 but I'm almost certain my crack outperforms that really. You can get a crack on here for sale for $350-$400 shipped at times. And look how many people call it the end game for many Sennheiser headphones, I'll tell ya there is a reason for that for sure.
> 
> I could've went Lyr 2 but then trust me you'll read and then I assure you, you'll want to know what the crack sounds like, so you might as well just do it right the first time and save yourself the time and money. It's not really all that much money if you have to save up the $400 and do yourself a favor you'll never regret.


 
 Thanks for the suggestion, i'll have to see if I can find one built, be great if I could find one in Australia too but probably more likely US.


----------



## hdtv00

So having my Aune feeding a crack I've been testing out tubes in both. I just tried a Bugle Boy. I had an Orange globe o getter in which sounded completely holographic in the highs. Like things were right here with me being played. The Bugle Boy does have nice clear highs but it seems to lose that holographic effect. It still sounds ok but much less realism in the sound as if its live being played here right with me.
  
 Man I have so many dang Orange globes of all types o, disk and A frame. But anyway interesting it really is a big impact in the sound from what it was, and there are people who claim this is just a buffer tube device and it's just a gimmick. Oh I think not.
  
 So far still o getter OG into a crack using Tung Sol and telefunken rib plate still a magical live sound.


----------



## Hansotek

hdtv00 said:


> I started with the Aune T1 and then paired it with the bottlehead crack. I am loving life now. I doubt I ever upgrade again. The only thing I'm curious in is a WA2, I am curious about a Lyr 2 but I'm almost certain my crack outperforms that really. You can get a crack on here for sale for $350-$400 shipped at times. And look how many people call it the end game for many Sennheiser headphones, I'll tell ya there is a reason for that for sure.
> 
> I could've went Lyr 2 but then trust me you'll read and then I assure you, you'll want to know what the crack sounds like, so you might as well just do it right the first time and save yourself the time and money. It's not really all that much money if you have to save up the $400 and do yourself a favor you'll never regret.




You're making the wait for my Crack even harder than it already is!


----------



## hdtv00

I can't help it. I've had a headphone I've just LOVED half of my life and with the combination of the Aune and Crack the right tubes it's beyond mind blowing. With every new tube comes a new discovery it seems.

  

  
 As you can see from my newest two pics I have a LOT of options at this point haha. And there is 4 tubes I have no even pictured. Aune tubes on left , crack tubes in right slot. Crazy huh. Yea I got carried away you could say.
  
 It seems to me that changing the Aune tube is what's changing the holographic sound the crack is putting out. I just tried another tube and its better than Bugle Boy but not as good as another o ring OG. I don't know sometimes one can listen to much and get lost or even I wonder if I can even believe my own ears sometimes. All I know though is when it's right , it's right. Boom.


----------



## Hansotek

hdtv00 said:


> I can't help it. I've had a headphone I've just LOVED half of my life and with the combination of the Aune and Crack the right tubes it's beyond mind blowing. With every new tube comes a new discovery it seems.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Holy glass menagerie!


----------



## mikoss

Nice tubes @hdtv00 - Have you tried the Tung Sol 7236? In my opinion it sounds better than the 5998 with the HD-650's... Where the 5998 is a powerhouse, the 7236 has supreme soundstage, smoothness and elegance. Paired with the OG's, it's a real treat. My fave combo with my WA2 and the 650's. 

The 5998's do a better job with the LCD's I have... I think they're more power hungry headphones. I find with the 650's for me, they're a bit too raw... I like the elegance of the 7236 tubes. 

Try it out


----------



## hdtv00

Yea I'll check into that maybe although haha I need to slow my roll some. But I am using them with Senn HD 560 Ovation II's and on the cracks volume dial it takes nearly 30% more on the dial to get the 560 to 650 volume level. Each are both rated 300 ohm too but clearly the 560 is a good bit harder to drive. I'd also swear on my life the 560 is more detailed and better sounding headphone. I know it comes down to sound sig a little bit at this point but man there is something glorious about this kind of details mixed with just about the right amount of bass.
  
 I found the 650 to be slightly to mid happy for its own good. And I found the HD 700 a pair bathed in treble. And I don't mean its talked about peaks. It just literally sounds to me like everything it plays back in from a treble room or something I can't explain it. Nothing so far is as musical or near perfect as my old 21 yr old pair of 560 II's.
  
 Tubes certainly play a part no doubt. That perfect holographic sound I heard vanished when I replaced rectifier tube in crack with 6080 sylvania it still had nice sound. But once in while theres a match up that takes the treble makes it seem live like instrument is there playing for you. And that is amazing. So with all the tubes I'm making my way through seeing exactly what changes. Major damage to my wallet but has been fun. But when I first heard that perfect holographic balance I panicked a little maybe thinking tubes will all be gone and used up , prices will go crazy and I went after again and again the tubes that were combing for that awesome sound.


----------



## allindaze

mikoss said:


> Pannys for the power, ELNA Silmic II's for the rest.
> link to guide via pdf
> link to @creatip s info post.


 
 Just wondering but from an electronics standpoint I guess it's ok to substitute the 35V 330uf with the 25V 470uf?
  
 Edit: Doesn't really matter anymore. I broke the 25V caps I put in and ordered 35V ones to replace them.


----------



## mikoss

allindaze said:


> Just wondering but from an electronics standpoint I guess it's ok to substitute the 35V 330uf with the 25V 470uf?
> 
> Edit: Doesn't really matter anymore. I broke the 25V caps I put in and ordered 35V ones to replace them.


 
 Ahh crap. Yeah, 25V caps should be fine as well... sorry to hear about the trouble! Hope the upgrade goes well  I think it's a great investment! Tube rolling can be much more pricier.


----------



## mikoss

Siemens grey shield CCa tube... another experience worthy of the price.
  
 I got a pair for $300 USD, and I would definitely recommend them at that price. They blow everything else out of the water, except the Philips Holland 6922 pinched waist tubes. The PW tubes are pure euphonics, tonality and very, very linear. I am preferring the Siemens CCa for a LOT of my music, however. This tube is unlike anything else I've ever heard.
  
Thoughts on the Siemens grey shield CCa...
  
 - This is without a doubt a high fidelity presentation. It is extremely musical sounding, yet it's a German tube... if you've auditioned other Siemens tubes and found them to be dry, or overly v-shaped in their presentation, this takes the V and fills in the middle. The presentation of this tube will literally send chills through your spine... it is extremely unique in that the soundstage depth/width/imaging/spatial cueing is incredibly full. *Top to bottom, side to side, sonic layering from front to back... the presentation is absolutely involving and engulfing*.
  
 - Mids are much different than the Philips tubes though. They are more tilted towards the upper midrange, (which is a very nice place to tilt them). They remind me of the liquid midrange I hear with old school Mullard tubes... you get the tweed of the guitar, and more of the high-end distortion coming through. The body is not as full or "holographic" sounding as the Amperex house sound (Orange globes, Miniwatts, etc), but it is full of detail... rich, high-mid detail. This tube creates its own holography from top to bottom... but it's not mid-focused like the Amperex tubes.
  
 - Bass is full as well. I have always found the E88CC tubes to sound a bit more bass heavy than their E188CC counterparts, which to me come across for the most part as a tad more refined/elegant. I am not a bass head, but have no major problem with the bass presentation of the CCa. It's plentiful, fulfilling, but for me, a bit exaggerated. This is part of my minor qualm with this tube... the exaggerated bass and tilted mids create a less linear presentation than the E188CC tubes. HOWEVER, for this tube, the bass is definitely part of the experience... the depth of the soundstage is only possible because of the power down below, and up top.
  
 - Speaking of the high end, it has a lot of energy, and it translates very well with HD-650's. I also believe the top-end presentation absolutely contributes to the detail this tube presents... nuances in tonal decay are present throughout every song. I've found personally that picking up on these nuances is only possible with a very select few tubes, and I've never heard them presented so very perfectly as this tube does. *Spatial details I never thought possible are in our music, and I fully believe this tube allows you to hear them unlike any other 6DJ8 tube*.
  
 I will also say this, for people who may have rolled different power tubes in their amps... It has the upper midrange magic of the GEC 6080 tubes (which I believe creates amazing soundstage height), plus the width and smoothness of the Tung Sol 7236 tube (but without feeling like instruments are too separated). The marriage of these qualities makes it what I believe is a once in a lifetime sonic presentation.
  
 I've heard other CCa's that are nowhere near knocking my socks off the way this tube has. I especially enjoy it for rock music... I know I said this about the PW tubes, and I will say it also about this tube; it changes my music in a way that reminds me of vinyl. The music sounds organic, very raw, and surrounding. High fidelity.
  
 Other minor quibbles are:
 -Attack is not as fast as Orange Globes... I find the OG's to sound very precise in their presentation, even if their tone is more rounded off. The tone of the CCa tube is more satisfying at times though, and the decay is superb. They just seem to not have the same initial definition of each note, yet once the notes are there, they linger beautifully.
 -I also find the CCa's to be fatiguing over long sessions. I attribute this to their midrange tilt, and I find it very interesting... I don't really get fatigue from any other tubes with my HD-650's. I am very sensitive to bright headphones, and I guess these tubes just happen to put a bit too much energy into the treble for extended listening sessions. I do find that taking a 5 minute break every once in a while helps. It's not the very top end of the treble either, like I said, it's in the upper mids.
 -Linearity and elegance is not there... I don't want to say they sound muddled up, because that sounds harsh, but they don't have Telefunken-like laser precision, and it's audible. It's not a distraction to me, because *their presentation is just so emotionally involving*, yet it makes me want to go back to E188CC tubes every once in a while. I like refinement, but I really, really love the Siemens grey shield CCa's.


----------



## sonic2911

The mk2 version is currently dropping on massdrop for $149 and the Gold Lion for $15, worth it? I read some reviews on reddit said that it can't decode as 24bit and QC is bad to, not like mk1 version. Is it right? Should I get it? Because I want to upgrade my FiiO e10k now


----------



## mikoss

Yeah, I think that is a good price. 
  
 AFAIK, it should play 24 bit / 96kHz no problem at all. The original can play this, and has the same implementation. 
  
 There was a big discussion after MD had it spec'd to play 24/192, and people couldn't get that working. The chip can, but the T1 apparently cannot.


----------



## sonic2911

so mk1 and mk2 are same?


----------



## xkonfuzed

sonic2911 said:


> so mk1 and mk2 are same?


 
 Apart from the mk2 having asynchronous data, i can't really think of any other differences. Maybe others can chime in?


----------



## milan616

The mk2 was fixed after I hounded Massdrop and Aune to nearly no end. They were trying to claim it could do 32 bit and DSD from the way they programmed it, but that was simply impossible from their combination of USB chipset and DAC. I think their software engineer was a little over-zealous.


----------



## mikoss

milan616 said:


> The mk2 was fixed after I hounded Massdrop and Aune to nearly no end. They were trying to claim it could do 32 bit and DSD from the way they programmed it, but that was simply impossible from their combination of USB chipset and DAC. I think their software engineer was a little over-zealous.




So will the mk2 play 24 / 192?
Just wondering what you meant by fixed.


----------



## penmarker

No. The Mk-2 will only get you to 24/96. I repaired my T1 and the distributor installed a Mk-2 dac board in it. I found that it's still limited to 24/96 like the previous version.


----------



## Koolpep

penmarker said:


> No. The Mk-2 will only get you to 24/96. I repaired my T1 and the distributor installed a Mk-2 dac board in it. I found that it's still limited to 24/96 like the previous version.


 

 Indeed - here is my Mac Bitperfect output:
  
 ----------------------
 Name: aune T1mk2 tube usb dac
 UID:AppleUSBAudioEngine:AUNE:SA9027 USB Audio:14220000:3
 Model UID: aune T1mk2 tube usb dac:262A:1168
 Device Id: 106
 Hogged: YES
 Frame Buffer Sizes: 14 - 4096
 Current Frame Buffer Size: 512
 Left Channel: 1    Right Channel: 2
 Sample Rates: 32.0  44.1  48.0  88.2  96.0  
  
*Physical Format 1:*
*Sample Rate: 96000*
*Bit Depth: 32*
 Format Flags: [ kAudioFormatFlagIsSignedInteger kAudioFormatFlagIsPacked ]
 Format ID: mcpl
 Channels Per Frame: 2
 Bytes Per Frame: 8
 Frames Per Packet: 1
 Bytes Per Packet: 8
  
  
 Though it does connect via 32-bit
  
  
 Compared to Modi2Uber:
  
 ----------------------
 Name: Speaker-Schiit USB Audio Device
 UID:AppleUSBAudioEngine:Schiit Audio:USB Modi Device:14242000:1
 Model UID: USB Modi Device:0D8C:0319
 Device Id: 99
 Hogged: NO
 Frame Buffer Sizes: 14 - 4096
 Current Frame Buffer Size: 512
 Left Channel: 1    Right Channel: 2
 Sample Rates: 44.1  48.0  88.2  96.0  176.4  192.0 
  
*Physical Format 1:*
*Sample Rate: 192000*
*Bit Depth: 32*
 Format Flags: [ kAudioFormatFlagIsSignedInteger kAudioFormatFlagIsPacked ]
 Format ID: mcpl
 Channels Per Frame: 2
 Bytes Per Frame: 8
 Frames Per Packet: 1
 Bytes Per Packet: 8


----------



## mikoss

Interesting that it says 88.2 yet mk1 won't support that for me...


----------



## Koolpep

mikoss said:


> Interesting that it says 88.2 yet mk1 won't support that for me...


 
  
 Hmm, for me it only does: 16/88.2 or 32/88.2 not 24/88.2
  
  
 Physical Format 2:
 Sample Rate: 88200
 Bit Depth: 32
 Format Flags: [ kAudioFormatFlagIsSignedInteger kAudioFormatFlagIsPacked ]
 Format ID: mcpl
 Channels Per Frame: 2
 Bytes Per Frame: 8
 Frames Per Packet: 1
 Bytes Per Packet: 8
  
 Physical Format 7:
 Sample Rate: 88200
 Bit Depth: 16
 Format Flags: [ kAudioFormatFlagIsSignedInteger kAudioFormatFlagIsPacked ]
 Format ID: mcpl
 Channels Per Frame: 2
 Bytes Per Frame: 4
 Frames Per Packet: 1
 Bytes Per Packet: 4


----------



## AuneAudio

Thanks for all the information about aune T1 DAC , right now aune have a new portable headphone amp -------B1，did anyone want join the aune B1 portable headphone amp worldwide review tour ? We will send 10pcs of aune B1 to do reviews for free , more infomration check :
http://www.head-fi.org/t/765999/aune-b1-headphone-amp-worldwide-review-tour-reviewers-wanted


----------



## xkonfuzed

auneaudio said:


> Thanks for all the information about aune T1 DAC , right now aune have a new portable headphone amp -------B1，did anyone want join the aune B1 portable headphone amp worldwide review tour ? We will send 10pcs of aune B1 to do reviews for free , more infomration check :
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/765999/aune-b1-headphone-amp-worldwide-review-tour-reviewers-wanted


 
 Entered. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Good luck to everyone.


----------



## mikoss

That's cool! I don't plan on asking because I don't really have any headphones suitable for portable listening. I know a lot of portable junkies like the IEM's, and closed back headphones. Damn does that B1 look sharp though, Aune. Nice work!


----------



## Chris Ihao

Just ordered one. Going to try out my Grado Ps1000's with it, as the only other amp I have is an Oppo Ha2, and I'd like to have a stationary amp at home. Also, I want to try running these babies through some tubes. Now, someone might think "what a cheap amp for those phones!", but I got a feeling I won't be disappointed


----------



## feanorean

.


----------



## Chris Ihao

Also got a Takstar pro 80 for free, with the purchase, so thats a bonus. Package will arrive tomorrow.


----------



## sonic2911

where did you order?


----------



## Chris Ihao

sonic2911 said:


> where did you order?




http://www.malaaudio.no/pakker/hodetelefonpakker

Actually were surprised I could find these items, in particular at such reasonable prices, here in Norway.

Update: Just picked up and running. Analogue line input directly from my Iphone 6. Its GREAT! Actually much better than I expected, and does wonderful things to my PS1000'S. Controls the bass and the very high level of high frequency response very well. Everything sounds very balanced and nice. It does narrow the sound stage a bit though, but I'm ok with that. Listening to Imogen Heap now while smiling. Great to know I dont NEED to use the DAC for it to sound good.

Its set to 0db gain and has more than enough power for these low impedance phones. No hiss or artifacts at max levels while connected. Very, very satisfied here.


----------



## hdtv00

"Analogue line input directly from my Iphone 6"
  
 That sure sounds like you mean from iphone into it using the rca analog jacks inputs. Which is NOT what you want to be doing it bypasses the tube dac and really makes using it totally pointless. You might not NEED to be using it right, but you haven't heard anything yet. Just wait till you start using it right and get a nice upgraded tube. Magic Happens.


----------



## Chris Ihao

hdtv00 said:


> "Analogue line input directly from my Iphone 6"
> 
> That sure sounds like you mean from iphone into it using the rca analog jacks inputs. Which is NOT what you want to be doing it bypasses the tube dac and really makes using it totally pointless. You might not NEED to be using it right, but you haven't heard anything yet. Just wait till you start using it right and get a nice upgraded tube. Magic Happens.




I debated that with someone in another thread here. Are you 100% this is the case with the mkII? This is what I wrote in that thread:

"Hmm. But why does the tube light up when running in line in mode? On this page, under 2), it says that it is a high quality "tube amplifier", while under 1) it says its a tube usb dac: http://en.auneaudio.com/html/en_products/NewDesign/T-Series/154_20.html"

With those 1 and 2 alternatives, I feel they differantiate between two seperate functions.

Also, its a bit strange if the tubes dont work when set to line, as the sound suddenly were messed up for a moment, as the tube were heating up for the first time. It would be rather stupid to fire up the tube as well, when running on line, if its not used. I dont have a clue though. I guess you know what you are talking about 

Anyways, I wouldn't say its "pointless", considering it sounds awesome on the line setting, but it is a temporary solution anyways (my life is in boxes due to moving these days).


----------



## hdtv00

It may not be pointless but the minute you start using it right with a nice tube you'll be wondering What you were thinking this whole time. Don't matter to me how you use it. I'm just saying you're missing out big time.
  
 Why does it still light up the tube when not using it right. Um well duh because they're to cheap to put more effort into it. Besides they probably figure who the hell would use it with just rca inputs bypasses the entire point of the device....haha just saying.


----------



## Chris Ihao

Ok. I trust you. Hehe. It still sounds great though. Not a newbie when it comes to audio here, considering I have been mixing and worked with audio for over a decade, (more seriously) on a hobby basis.

I also have the Oppo HA2, so I COULD use that for dac purposes.


----------



## mikoss

Yeppers. The T1 is a tube buffered DAC. The audio signal will only go through the tube if the USB input is being used. 

It isn't a tube amp, just a solid state amp.


----------



## Chris Ihao

I surrender 

The amp in itself is surprisingly good though, and NOTHING you guys say will change that. Lol! Are anyone able to connect directly from ipad/iphone to the T1, with a camera kit. Its a hassle to deal with a powered usb hub and all that. Will probably be able to rig something though.


----------



## hdtv00

Doesn't the iphone have a usb OTG type cable too. I'm pretty sure it does. That's all you'd need and you'll be right as rain. You REALLY want to be using it right with a nice tube. It's that much better.
  
 http://www.amazon.com/Valhalla-Lightning-Connector-iPhone-iPad/dp/B00GDEOVHU
  
 Something like that, but do some research first make sure it works like you need it to when it's connected. I'm sure in this thread people are using it with an apple device.
  
 Quickly I searched and found this info in this thread.
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-ss-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq-updated-on-02-14-15/3465#post_10042875
  
 There is link to the post maybe you can just message them directly and ask their solution for iphone/apple devices.
  
 "Also someone had problems with iPad/iOS and had to use powered usb hub. Might also be Apple software related issue but haven`t understood yet why because Aune T1 does not draw any power from USB, only data signals. Worth to try if you have powered usb hub laying around.
 Yes, I have to use a small powered hub with the iPad or iPhone to avoid a "low power" reading, despite the fact that the T1 doesn't draw power from the USB port. It works great once you use the hub though."
  
  
 And PS the amp section of the T1's aren't anything special at all really. Which is why so many change the caps and what not on their units. Or like me just use the RCA outputs into a much better amp(bottlehead crack for me). And then pure magic happens. I'm just trying to get you the best out of your investment. Plus the fact that the right tube, and music comes ALIVE.


----------



## xkonfuzed

Yes, the T1's amp isn't really its strong suit. The DAC is where it truly shines. If you think the amp is good, wait until you hear the T1 utilizing the DAC with a nice tube. It really *is *magical.
  
 Speaking of amps, has anyone tried hooking up Aune's own B1 with the T1 yet? Im very curious as to how those two pair. Im more than ready to drop some $$ on a new amp that will drive my low impedance headphones and IEM's well.


----------



## Chris Ihao

Cool. Thanks a lot hdtv. Will check it out. Never knew there was such a cable.

No hurry though. Just glad to have found this gear, and in particular with the free bundled Takstar. Will use my Oppo until then I guess.


----------



## penmarker

I'm curious as to why you haven't plugged the T1 into a computer via USB yet. You'd be able to hear the tube dac stage then.


----------



## Chris Ihao

penmarker said:


> I'm curious as to why you haven't plugged the T1 into a computer via USB yet. You'd be able to hear the tube dac stage then.




Only reason is that I'm in a moving process, and my stuff is in boxes and attics, my pc's and lightning to usb kit as well.

BUT, an interesting little "twist" is that a component inside of the T1 seems to have gone "pop" earlier today. I thought I smelled something burnt, but figured it was the smell of "new gear". Guess what. The smell is still there, in droves, and I have already written to the store I bought it for RMA. I guess your fingers are not supposed to smell burnt after holding the T1. Yay. This is the second time in two weeks I experience Chinese qc failing completely after ordering supposedly quality hardware. Hassle.


----------



## Koolpep

chris ihao said:


> Only reason is that I'm in a moving process, and my stuff is in boxes and attics, my pc's and lightning to usb kit as well.
> 
> BUT, an interesting little "twist" is that a component inside of the T1 seems to have gone "pop" earlier today. I thought I smelled something burnt, but figured it was the smell of "new gear". Guess what. The smell is still there, in droves, and I have already written to the store I bought it for RMA. I guess your fingers are not supposed to smell burnt after holding the T1. Yay. This is the second time in two weeks I experience Chinese qc failing completely after ordering supposedly quality hardware. Hassle.


 

 That indeed sucks. Hope you get it replaced ASAP. I have mine in the office and use it constantly for a year now. Works like a charm....
  
 Cheers,
 K


----------



## creatip

chris ihao said:


> I debated that with someone in another thread here. Are you 100% this is the case with the mkII? This is what I wrote in that thread:
> 
> "Hmm. But why does the tube light up when running in line in mode? On this page, under 2), it says that it is a high quality "tube amplifier", while under 1) it says its a tube usb dac: http://en.auneaudio.com/html/en_products/NewDesign/T-Series/154_20.html"
> 
> ...


 
  
 The tube part is used as the pre-amp buffer. It should go more or less like this: digital audio data from USB (PC or others) => DAC circuit => tube pre-amp circuit => solid state headphone amp. 
  
 I've tried it, with the switch flicked to 'line', then I took off the tube. While the white LED is still on, I still got sounds, meaning the tube part is bypassed when in RCA line in mode. 
  
 The guys aren't saying that the amp part is particularly bad, but they're saying you're missing on something better, the tube pre-amp part. It's kinda like driving a Ferrari, but never go above 100kph 
  
 The T1 can work with ipad, but needs a bit of workaround. You gotta have a USB hub in between. Any cheap one will do, I use a generic $3 hub to do the job. 
  
 Here's a video I recorded to show that it's possible to do that:
  

  
 *tapped the mic at the beginning of the video, to show that the audio recorded was indeed from that lapel mic, recording the sound leak of the headphone in function. It goes: ipad => camera connection kit => usb hub (to 'fool' the ipad's restriction) => T1


----------



## mikoss

chris ihao said:


> ...
> BUT, an interesting little "twist" is that a component inside of the T1 seems to have gone "pop" earlier today. I thought I smelled something burnt, but figured it was the smell of "new gear". Guess what. The smell is still there, in droves, and I have already written to the store I bought it for RMA. I guess your fingers are not supposed to smell burnt after holding the T1. Yay. This is the second time in two weeks I experience Chinese qc failing completely after ordering supposedly quality hardware. Hassle.




That ******* sucks.


----------



## Chris Ihao

creatip said:


> It goes: ipad => camera connection kit => usb hub (to 'fool' the ipad's restriction) => T1




Thanks mate. I will have to do something like that yes. The restrictions on the lightning port are SO ridiculous. Grrr. Is that an unpowered usb hub you are using? It varies if powered is necessary.

Also, thanks Koolpep and mikoss. Yeah, it sucks big time, especially since I have been unlucky lately with other gear as well. The good part is that I probably will be allowed to exchange it, judging from what the dealer told me via mail, and they are situated in the same town as me


----------



## creatip

chris ihao said:


> Thanks mate. I will have to do something like that yes. The restrictions on the lightning port are SO ridiculous. Grrr. Is that an unpowered usb hub you are using? It varies if powered is necessary.
> 
> Also, thanks Koolpep and mikoss. Yeah, it sucks big time, especially since I have been unlucky lately with other gear as well. The good part is that I probably will be allowed to exchange it, judging from what the dealer told me via mail, and they are situated in the same town as me


 
  
 That's a powered sub, but in that video, the power wasn't plugged. The problem is with the USB enumerator. It's like this: when you plug in a USB device, it takes about 0.5-1 seconds before windows recognize what it is, right? That's the process of 'introducing' itself, something like, 'hi, my name is X, I'm an audio device, etc, I need to draw Y mA of current from you to power myself'. Now this is where the ipad's restriction problem lies. Starting from IOS 4.2, idevices limit the max current that can be drawn through the camera connection kit to 20mA. This is their attempt to preserve battery life. 
  
 When T1 is connected straight to the CCK, the T1 reports that it needs more than the max current allowed by the IOS. In reality, I don't think it will draw a lot of electricity via the USB, because the T1 already got its proprietary PSU. The hub's function is to trick the ipad in the initializing process. Hubs' enumerator always report a very low current draw, thus the IOS will allow it to connect. So in a sense, the hub's function is just to fool the 'gatekeeper' for the real device to gain access. I've successfully ran an E10 olympus, which is a bus-powered dac/amp with this method. 
  
 Oh, and if you got a few of fried electric devices recently, you might want to check if there's anything wrong with your power line/plugs. Maybe the voltage is fluctuating frequently?


----------



## Chris Ihao

creatip said:


> Oh, and if you got a few of fried electric devices recently, you might want to check if there's anything wrong with your power line/plugs. Maybe the voltage is fluctuating frequently?




Thanks for elaborating regarding that usb hub. Think I will try to find the smallest and cheapest non-powered hub I can get my hands on, and try that. I got a seven port powered hub available, but it just takes up a lot of space.

Regarding electrical currents: no, the other faulty device isnt connected to the mains, so thats (hopefully) not a problem here. I got a theory though, and that is that the metal caps of the rca cable (like many good brands use) may have just barely touched the metal casing, as the holes are far too narrow for its own good. Also, if the rca terminals are just barely misaligned, this could create a short. I think it would be a better solution to have a naked area around the terminals, as the metal casing is a really good conductor. I guess most people use the usb dac, so most people wont come across this potentially dangerous aspect of the construction.

Anyways, the retailer I bought it from was extremely service minded, and I will get a replacement already tomorrow afternoon, after delivering it to them. Very happy about this


----------



## xkonfuzed

Hey guys, 
  
 What tube(s) would you recommend for electronic music? I currently own 4 tubes and although some are decent for electronic, none of them really excel at it. I need something with good bass punch and extension. A V-shaped sound would be perfect. Detail, clarity etc. don't really matter here as I'm using it purely for electronic. 
  
 So, recommendations?


----------



## creatip

xkonfuzed said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> What tube(s) would you recommend for electronic music? I currently own 4 tubes and although some are decent for electronic, none of them really excel at it. I need something with good bass punch and extension. A V-shaped sound would be perfect. Detail, clarity etc. don't really matter here as I'm using it purely for electronic.
> 
> So, recommendations?


 
  
 TBH, rolling tubes won't suddenly make a regular headphone into a DJ-basshead-heart thumping-headphone. 
  
 You might want to try fiddling with EQ, especially in the low frequencies. Biggest margin of difference is of course from the headphone itself. Changing the headphone into a bassy one is the sure shot.


----------



## xkonfuzed

creatip said:


> TBH, rolling tubes won't suddenly make a regular headphone into a DJ-basshead-heart thumping-headphone.
> 
> You might want to try fiddling with EQ, especially in the low frequencies. Biggest margin of difference is of course from the headphone itself. Changing the headphone into a bassy one is the sure shot.


 
 Never said I wanted to change my regular headphones to bassy ones.
  
 I already have bass-oriented headphones (Q40, K518, Denon C300), but they don't sound as fun from my tubes. Nearly all the tubes in my collection are either neutral or slightly warm, which is fantastic for my other headphones but not for these. 
  
 As to EQ, i did previously try it (used Foobar2k EQ) but it didn't go well. Every increase in a particular frequency caused distortion, however slight it may be.


----------



## creatip

xkonfuzed said:


> Never said I wanted to change my regular headphones to bassy ones.
> 
> I already have bass-oriented headphones (Q40, K518, Denon C300), but they don't sound as fun from my tubes. Nearly all the tubes in my collection are either neutral or slightly warm, which is fantastic for my other headphones but not for these.
> 
> As to EQ, i did previously try it (used Foobar2k EQ) but it didn't go well. Every increase in a particular frequency caused distortion, however slight it may be.


 
  
 For EQ, first download the 30 bands EQ plugin (free of course). It's much more detailed than the standard foobar's EQ.
  
 Then, tick the checkbox of 'auto gain' or 'auto volume' or something, and start adding the low frequencies. The trick to minimize distortions caused by EQ is to lower the unneeded frequencies, not add the needed frequencies. This is what the checkbox automatically does, keep the overall gain to around 0. If it turns out to be too quiet, just turn the volume knob. If it still distorts, then it's the hardware (amp or headphone) limitation, it can't output the result you tell it to do.


----------



## mikoss

V shaped tubes IMO would be ECC88 Siemens. Lots of bass and extended treble. 
The E88CC's tend to refine things which equates to less emphasized bass. 

Also try the GE Smoked Glass 6DJ8 which IMO goes great with electronic music. 

Honestly, I tend to prefer tubes with a linear response; the more clear, the better. Let your headphones do the EQing in their frequency response. Beyers generally have a V shaped response, but I still prefer clarity for electronic music. For me, Telefunken E188CC tubes and planar headphones are amazing with electronic.


----------



## xkonfuzed

creatip said:


> For EQ, first download the 30 bands EQ plugin (free of course). It's much more detailed than the standard foobar's EQ.
> 
> Then, tick the checkbox of 'auto gain' or 'auto volume' or something, and start adding the low frequencies. The trick to minimize distortions caused by EQ is to lower the unneeded frequencies, not add the needed frequencies. This is what the checkbox automatically does, keep the overall gain to around 0. If it turns out to be too quiet, just turn the volume knob. If it still distorts, then it's the hardware (amp or headphone) limitation, it can't output the result you tell it to do.


 
 Hey that worked out quite well actually. Don't know if i would resort to it whenever i need to change something i don't like about a certain headphone, but still nice to know its there. Thanks!
  


mikoss said:


> V shaped tubes IMO would be ECC88 Siemens. Lots of bass and extended treble.
> The E88CC's tend to refine things which equates to less emphasized bass.
> 
> Also try the GE Smoked Glass 6DJ8 which IMO goes great with electronic music.
> ...


 
 Hey mikoss
  
 Thanks for the recommendations. I have heard a lot of good things about Siemens tubes. 
  
 I also prefer neutral tubes, perhaps with a slight hint of warmth. These kinds of tubes pair wonderfully with my open headphones (DT880, MA900). However for my bassy closed backs I prefer something a bit more exciting.


----------



## canthearyou

I recently bought a Matrix M-Stage HPA-2 and also the T1 MK2 w/Gold Lion tube(From last drop). As per a lot of replies on this thread I want to use the T1 DAC and M-Stage amp. Is there a certain volume level I need to have my PC/DAC set to? Example: Do I max out the volume on both the PC and T1 and use volume control on amp? Thanks!
 Edit: Since I only own low impedance hps(X2/K7XX) I may end up using just the T1 if I enjoy the sound.


----------



## Charliemotta

I'm using the same setup. I have the T1 volume all the down (off). I  have USB from PC into T1, and RCA from T1 to M-stage.   ♫


----------



## mikoss

Yeah, the T1 has a fixed volume on the RCA output, so the physical volume dial on the T1 only affects the headphone output.

It's always best to put out full volume on the computer, and adjust via your amp.


----------



## canthearyou

charliemotta said:


> I'm using the same setup. I have the T1 volume all the down (off). I  have USB from PC into T1, and RCA from T1 to M-stage.   ♫







mikoss said:


> Yeah, the T1 has a fixed volume on the RCA output, so the physical volume dial on the T1 only affects the headphone output.
> 
> It's always best to put out full volume on the computer, and adjust via your amp.




Awesome! Thanks!


----------



## Charliemotta

What do you have the dip switches set at on the M-stage?  I had mine at 0dB since I had it. Just yesterday
 I changed it to 18dB. I am going to upgrade the Burr Brown OPA627AP with Class A which greatly improves SQ.
  
http://tamaudio.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=Burr%20Brown%20OPA627AP


----------



## penmarker

I'm more interested on your impressions of the K7XX. It's cheaper than the HD650, are there any nasty sibiliances or weak bass from the M-Stage output?


----------



## hdtv00

Can anyone help me understand why my T1 first version works fine with WASAPI but then when I plug in my new MK2 version no matter what I play it tells me format not supported.
  
 "Unrecoverable playback error: Unsupported stream format: 44100 Hz / 24-bit / 2 channels"
  
 It says that no matter what format I try to play. What


----------



## creatip

hdtv00 said:


> Can anyone help me understand why my T1 first version works fine with WASAPI but then when I plug in my new MK2 version no matter what I play it tells me format not supported.
> 
> "Unrecoverable playback error: Unsupported stream format: 44100 Hz / 24-bit / 2 channels"
> 
> It says that no matter what format I try to play. What


 
  
 Yeah, same here. For some unknown reason, it refuses to play 24-bit, no matter what. Set it to 16 bit or 32 bit. Strange right, it can play 32 bit with no problem, but not 24 bit....


----------



## milan616

The 32 bit I'm guessing is just pretend working. 24 bit support was broken on early Mk2 T1s. If you go to Massdrop you can dig through the comments on the Mk2 for the firmware update to fix it. I hounded Massdrop to get Aune to make it right, but I'm guessing you're one of the earlier shipments.


----------



## creatip

milan616 said:


> The 32 bit I'm guessing is just pretend working. 24 bit support was broken on early Mk2 T1s. If you go to Massdrop you can dig through the comments on the Mk2 for the firmware update to fix it. I hounded Massdrop to get Aune to make it right, but I'm guessing you're one of the earlier shipments.


 
  
 That's quite a bruhaha in the comment section 
  
 So I guess I'm indeed a 'victim' of the first orders. Downloaded the official release of aune and saviaudio. They're talking about using eeprom utility to fix it. Now where can I find that? The only software link in the comment section installs a useless ASIO thingamajic.


----------



## tiobilli

I have a Grado SR60e. I don't hear any difference using an RA-1. Does this Aune T1 make any improvement with my sR60e?


----------



## milan616

creatip said:


> That's quite a bruhaha in the comment section
> 
> So I guess I'm indeed a 'victim' of the first orders. Downloaded the official release of aune and saviaudio. They're talking about using eeprom utility to fix it. Now where can I find that? The only software link in the comment section installs a useless ASIO thingamajic.


 
  
 Apparently I was drunk or have amnesia. I searched my email history to see if I could find the tool, but couldn't. Turns out I sent it in for an RMA. Try contacting Massdrop if you got it from them for a replacement.


----------



## creatip

milan616 said:


> Apparently I was drunk or have amnesia. I searched my email history to see if I could find the tool, but couldn't. Turns out I sent it in for an RMA. Try contacting Massdrop if you got it from them for a replacement.


 
  
 Bummer....
  
 I have contacted Candy from Aune. Still waiting for her reply.
  
  
 On another note, this is just out of curiosity. Does anyone know what architecture is the T1's headphone amp part? Is it class-A?


----------



## xkonfuzed

Just added 2 new tubes to my collection: 
 GE Smokie 6DJ8
 Siemens ECC88
  
 Will post reviews of them when they arrive along with reviews of all other tubes in my collection. I wanted to wait until I've had a good amount of tubes so that i post a review of them all at once.


----------



## mikoss

creatip said:


> Bummer....
> 
> I have contacted Candy from Aune. Still waiting for her reply.
> 
> ...


 
 They're op-amps... not sure of the chips... I'd have to pull mine apart and check again.


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> They're op-amps... not sure of the chips... I'd have to pull mine apart and check again.


 
  
 Hmmm, I'm not very knowledgeable in amps. I know of op-amp chips, but does that means if an amp is using op-amp, it doesn't fall to the A-AB-B-D class?


----------



## Chris Ihao

mikoss said:


> They're op-amps... not sure of the chips... I'd have to pull mine apart and check again.




Hey Mike. You really were correct the 650's ARE a great match for the t1.  Finally got the usb dac up and running now, and testing as I'm speaking. Only have the standard tube, but sure sounds good to me. Going to test my PS1000's afterwards.


----------



## mikoss

chris ihao said:


> Hey Mike. You really were correct the 650's ARE a great match for the t1.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Excellent. There are a lot of really great tubes in the 6DJ8 family that work with the T1... my personal favourites for the 650's come from from the Heerlen, Holland plant... look for a Philips or Amperex tube with a factory code with a "half triangle" like this:

 They are usually marked as 6DJ8/ECC88, or the longer life versions which are E88CC/6922 or E188CC/7308 or CCa. (Usually branded as Philips, Amperex, or Valvo).
  
 Other superb tubes are Siemens CCa (grey shield), or if you don't want any extra warmth, try Telefunken tubes.
  
 There are also far cheaper tubes, but generally the price of the tube is correlated with demand and availability.


----------



## Chris Ihao

mikoss said:


> Excellent. There are a lot of really great tubes in the 6DJ8 family that work with the T1... my personal favourites for the 650's come from from the Heerlen, Holland plant... look for a Philips or Amperex tube with a factory code with a "half triangle" like this:
> 
> 
> They are usually marked as 6DJ8/ECC88, or the longer life versions which are E88CC/6922 or E188CC/7308 or CCa. (Usually branded as Philips, Amperex, or Valvo).
> ...




Cool. Thanks a lot for your tips Mike. I will look into it. My PS1000's does not sound very good on this tube I'm afraid. The sibilance almost increased I would say. Then again I'm coming directly from the 650's, an my ears always need to adapt some. Hey, even the 650's sounded bad the first few minutes I were testing them on my Oppo HA2 when I got them. 

Guess I need a very warm tube for the Grados.


----------



## mikoss

To be honest, I found the stock tube had harsh highs for myself as well. I find this with most of the Chinese and Russian tubes I've heard, but I also hear people who really enjoy them. I find they need a good 40 hours to settle in either way. 

I really enjoyed Siemens tubes with the Grados that I heard. The treble on the E188CC Philips tubes is also very refined sounding. Another good spot to lurk for tube rolling is the Lyr tube rolling thread as they roll the same tubes as the T1.


----------



## Chris Ihao

mikoss said:


> To be honest, I found the stock tube had harsh highs for myself as well. I find this with most of the Chinese and Russian tubes I've heard, but I also hear people who really enjoy them. I find they need a good 40 hours to settle in either way.
> 
> I really enjoyed Siemens tubes with the Grados that I heard. The treble on the E188CC Philips tubes is also very refined sounding. Another good spot to lurk for tube rolling is the Lyr tube rolling thread as they roll the same tubes as the T1.




Ok. I'll see if i can dig up some of those Siemens tubes then. Thing is, the PS1000's are so hypersensitive to a lot of things. They almost act like a detectives that are looking for problems, wherever they can find them, and a bad mix on them sounds like some child opened up a radio and put it back together the wrong way. I have heard people complaining about sibilance in these PS1000's, but didn't get what they meant until now. They sound perfect on the Oppo however. Weird that I heard no such problems on the 650's. And to think (uninitiated) people say that the difference between amps, tubes and other components are negligible. Hah!


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> They're op-amps... not sure of the chips... I'd have to pull mine apart and check again.


 
  
 Oh and, is the op-amp the little black chip beside the dip switches?
  

  
 Or is it located on the main PCB (considering this little PCB links to the main PCB)
  
 If it's indeed that little black chip in the picture, I could take a look at the type easily. I got 2x freshly uninstalled PCBs sitting around.


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> They're op-amps... not sure of the chips... I'd have to pull mine apart and check again.


 
  
 Okay, I took a look at the chip. The marking is N5532A. Upon googling, it's TI NE5532A.
  
 Downloaded the specsheet, but all seemed greek to me....


----------



## Chris Ihao

Ahh. Back from a cabin trip Saturday till now (had to remove a tick on me and my gf both), and my sweet Aune T1. I know quite a few may consider the ATH-M50's "second rate", but I have to say the T1 really brought out the best from these. Lots of balanced, energetic lows, and good treble, even on low levels (and this on the standard tube). Love  Looking forward to trying out the HE-400 (non i version) that are posted and on their way to me.


----------



## Chris Ihao

creatip said:


> That's a powered sub, but in that video, the power wasn't plugged. The problem is with the USB enumerator. It's like this: when you plug in a USB device, it takes about 0.5-1 seconds before windows recognize what it is, right? That's the process of 'introducing' itself, something like, 'hi, my name is X, I'm an audio device, etc, I need to draw Y mA of current from you to power myself'. Now this is where the ipad's restriction problem lies. Starting from IOS 4.2, idevices limit the max current that can be drawn through the camera connection kit to 20mA. This is their attempt to preserve battery life.
> 
> When T1 is connected straight to the CCK, the T1 reports that it needs more than the max current allowed by the IOS. In reality, I don't think it will draw a lot of electricity via the USB, because the T1 already got its proprietary PSU. The hub's function is to trick the ipad in the initializing process. Hubs' enumerator always report a very low current draw, thus the IOS will allow it to connect. So in a sense, the hub's function is just to fool the 'gatekeeper' for the real device to gain access. I've successfully ran an E10 olympus, which is a bus-powered dac/amp with this method.




Yeah, strike! I ventured out in the city to see if I could find a cheap, unpowered and small usb 2.0 hub to drive the T1 with the lightning to usb camera connector (iPad and iPhone), and I found one which looked perfect, at only 12 bucks:



I admittedly didnt have a lot of faith, but I am very happy to say it works perfectly! I am now able to use only these components to make it work:



VERY happy about this, and I will get another identical hub as a backup. Unfortunately I think this is a Scandinavian product, so I guess it doesn't help most of you guys, but it's probably nice to get another confirmation that unpowered hubs work just fine (at least some) ✌:tone1:

Thanks for helping out, and cheers!

PS: It also works with other usb devices. Cool. Oh, just one tip. Unplug the camera kit, connect the T1 (or other devices) before plugging the camera kit in (and don't hotswap). Remove the kit before turning off the T1, or the iPad/iPhone may act wonky and freeze.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Hey guys!  Did yall miss me?  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
 Well get this, my TubeMonger socket saver (v1.0) started malfunctioning randomly after 1 year.  I was getting a low level white noise that never goes away. Then occasionally I would start to get popping like the tube was not inserted all the way. I was worried that my Amperex 7308 was starting to die on me or something.  Then I decided to remove the socket saver and plug the tube straight into the T1 and everything went back to normal.  I actually noticed a sparkle come back to the sound that had been removed due some unknown issue.  So then I contacted TubeMonger and they sent me the new version of the socket saver at no cost to me and it works perfectly!  It is always nice to see companies back their products, especially in case like this.  They want me to send them the malfunctioning socket saver so they can study it to see what has happened as this is supposed to be very rare.
  
 Oh and I am selling my Amperex Holland 7308 Bugle Boy if anyone is interested 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I am going back to finish my last 2 years in Electrical Engineering and I need all the cash I can get.  I have way too many high quality tubes already and I think this one is going to go for a nice amount of money considering it is the first one AudioTubes.com has ever seen.
  
 I have a new toy on the way!  The $199.99 Fiio X3K that can natively play DSD and 192/24 FLAC/ALAC.  Hell it can even be a USB DAC, so I'm excited to take it for a spin on Monday.
  
 Review: http://www.headfonia.com/fiio-x3-second-generation-it-just-got-better-again/


----------



## chowmein83

ncsuzoso said:


> Hey guys!  Did yall miss me?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
  
 Congrats on the purchase of the X3K! I'm actually listening to one of the tour units right now for review, and what I can say is that it sounds very very good - to me, as good as the T1 with upgraded tubes (though the tubes I have aren't nearly as nice as yours). Hope you enjoy it!


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I'm really excited about the X3K, especially with my still new (to me) Shure SE425s.  I am coming from a Cowon iAudio 9+ which could only do 16/44.1 FLAC and the Cowon couldn't really drive my Shures very well so I am ready to be blown away  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Should be here Monday according to B&H!


----------



## roosteratomic

HI.
  
 my setup is : PC->DAC->amplifier,
  
 since i dont use Headphones, is there an option to use the Aune T1 as a DAC only and still get the tube effect ?
  
 thanks in advance.


----------



## penmarker

roosteratomic said:


> HI.
> 
> my setup is : PC->DAC->amplifier,
> 
> ...


hi! Yeah that'll actually work. The T1 will be a tube buffered dac for your amplifier.


----------



## roosteratomic

tnx mate.


----------



## sonic2911

I got my T1 Mk2 today, tried 0db gain, but seem too weak for hd600
  
 /try 16db gain...the amp is so worse than I expected


----------



## hdtv00

Try 10 that's what I thought was best on my 560's and I'm certain they are harder to drive than hd 600's. What tube are you using, I'll just save ya some time and throw the stock tube in the trash can, it's garbage. And I'm still more than pissed about the 24 bit 32 bit ********.


----------



## ice445

mikoss said:


> Excellent. There are a lot of really great tubes in the 6DJ8 family that work with the T1... my personal favourites for the 650's come from from the Heerlen, Holland plant... look for a Philips or Amperex tube with a factory code with a "half triangle" like this:
> 
> They are usually marked as 6DJ8/ECC88, or the longer life versions which are E88CC/6922 or E188CC/7308 or CCa. (Usually branded as Philips, Amperex, or Valvo).
> 
> ...


 
 I'm using the Amperex 6DJ8 tube. Wonderful quality. 
  
 Anyone ever used an AKG K712 with this DAC?


----------



## sonic2911

still using stock tube, and waiting for gold lion on the way. I just see 16 and 24 bit only, no 32 and run perfectly with 88.2/24 and 94/24


----------



## ice445

sonic2911 said:


> still using stock tube, and waiting for gold lion on the way. I just see 16 and 24 bit only, no 32 and run perfectly with 88.2/24 and 94/24


 
 There is no 32bit as far as I know. I know some versions of the Aune had a bug where 24Bit mode wasn't available, but that's it. Also using such a high sample quality isn't really necessary IMO. Stick with 48Khz


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Upgraded my Aune T1 mk1 with the Siemens E88CC last night. It's now PERFECT! I use the T1 with my Denon amplifier and JBL speakers, and now they sound closer to the vinyl player that my uncle had years ago (when I was still a child) than anything else! I'm thinking of purchasing Siemens for my other tube amp, the LD I+


----------



## sonic2911

update: tried to low foobar volume to 50%, with 10db gain setting on t1, sound better...so weird, I always set max vol in foobar to get bit perfect and have no problem with another DAC/amps. Do you set 100% volume in foobar guys?


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

It's said that setting the volume of the DAC to max level will cause unnecessary stress...So it's rather wrong to say that setting max vol in foobar will leave you with a 'perfect' SQ. I always set mine (ODAC/Aune) to 90% and leave the volume to the amp. 
  
 On gain settings, well, _technically_ higher gains will cause more distortion. Whether these 2 things make a difference to your ears depends... In your case, it seems setting higer gains and turning foobar down is better.


----------



## hdtv00

"I know some versions of the Aune had a bug where 24Bit mode wasn't available"
  
 Yes that's exactly what I was talking about, it will not allow me to pick 24 bit period. In Windows, foobar anything 16 and 32 bit is all that's listed.
  
 As for gain I have my original T1 on 10db setting too on the mk2 I tried 16 db but it sounded like crap.


----------



## penmarker

sonic2911 said:


> update: tried to low foobar volume to 50%, with 10db gain setting on t1, sound better...so weird, I always set max vol in foobar to get bit perfect and have no problem with another DAC/amps. Do you set 100% volume in foobar guys?


 
 Try downloading Wasapi driver for your foobar and set it to Wasapi PUSH. It will forcefeed the audio files into Aune T1 without any pre-processing by windows audio drivers. One downside is that it gives priority to Foobar and Foobar alone, so if you play other things like youtube or windows media player, there wouldn't be any sound. You'll need to stop Foobar from playing music (not pause) so other things can be played. Also do note that musics encoded at a higher bitrate than 24/96 won't be able to be played by Aune T1 because the DAC only supports up to 24/96. If you had been able to play 24/192 through the Aune T1, that means the signal had been downsampled prior to being fed to Aune T1. Wasapi PUSH will make the DAC portion of the Aune T1 process everything. to it's maximum capability.
  
 Yes I do set the volume to 100%, I personally can't hear any difference between 100% or lower, but I just do because "just in case".


----------



## sonic2911

I did, always use latest driver. Low the windows mixer vol to 50% and set foobar max vol is my solution now, so bad.
 But when I try to run it as DAC or AMP only (because I have the fiio e10k as DAC and the receiver as AMP also), the problem is gone. SO WEIRD -,-


----------



## mikoss

Sounds your like T1 has an issue. 

I use windows at 100% volume to Foobar WASAPI (event) to the T1, and volume at maybe the first or second dot 25% to 50% at gain 0dB. It is plenty, plenty loud. Trying 10dB, I hear compression and loss of details. 

As far as 32 bit support, I have no 32 bit material. Also, I am convinced that we are not actually hearing bit perfect playback on any cheap DAC. If you have a delta sigma chip, you're losing resolution. The only true bit perfect playback in my opinion are R-R DACs from the 90's with 12 or 14 bit resolution (this is really, actually bit perfect, not some BS 32 bit resolution from a DS chip). I also feel that if people actually understood that most music doesn't even touch 12 bits, they'd care far less about encoding music at 24 or 32 bit resolution, and far more about having a DAC that can actually fully support the 16 bits of resolution the music may contain. The dynamic range goes from far below your threshold of hearing to literally blowing your ear drums apart.


----------



## hdtv00

"As far as 32 bit support, I have no 32 bit material."
  
 Yea exactly which is why it pisses me off. I'm pretty sure mikoss you were posting on the thread at the site this was brought up months and months ago. Their explanation was its a labeling issue. meaning it says 32 bit but its really doing 24 bit. Yea really well tell that to windows and foobar /w wasapi....What exactly am I supposed to do with 32 bit as you point out no one has ANY 32 bit anything. And yea I know but still I like to keep things as perfect as I can , well anyway whatever. It does sound good. But it's annoying as $^&$


----------



## mikoss

Lol I do agree with you. I hate resampling files myself, but I can assure you that there is nothing in those extra bits doing anything for you that you can hear.


----------



## penmarker

Even if it does support 32 bit, it won't make much difference in the sq department. It's a budget dac so I wouldn't dissect it too much, as long as it does the job then it's good enough for me. I'm in it for the tubes.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

penmarker said:


> Even if it does support 32 bit, it won't make much difference in the sq department. It's a budget dac so I wouldn't dissect it too much, as long as it does the job then it's good enough for me. I'm *in it for the tubes*.


 
 Thank you for saying this!


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I really hope the new iteration from Aune with a tube buffer will support native DSD playback because this FiiO X3K is blowing my mind vs. my old Cowon iAudio 9+ 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
  
 Oh btw, to anyone who may be interested in the 1963 Holland 7308 Bugle Boy, I am entertaining trade offers.  I'm not sure what people think I am going to be asking for the tube, but many people have sent me PMs saying they wish they had the cash??? haha


----------



## walbum4262

chris ihao said:


> Yeah, strike! I ventured out in the city to see if I could find a cheap, unpowered and small usb 2.0 hub to drive the T1 with the lightning to usb camera connector (iPad and iPhone), and I found one which looked perfect, at only 12 bucks:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




The name of this usb hub is: deltaco UH-408
For anyone interested


----------



## Chris Ihao

walbum4262 said:


> The name of this usb hub is: deltaco UH-408
> For anyone interested




Yeah. Forgot to mention that. Sorry. PS: I guess ny pm is redundant then.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

chris ihao said:


> Yeah, strike! I ventured out in the city to see if I could find a cheap, unpowered and small usb 2.0 hub to drive the T1 with the lightning to usb camera connector (iPad and iPhone), and I found one which looked perfect, at only 12 bucks:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Can the Aune drive your HD600 effectively? I strongly suppose no, but guess it never hurts to ask


----------



## chowmein83

williamleonhart said:


> Can the Aune drive your HD600 effectively? I strongly suppose no, but guess it never hurts to ask


 
  
 It at least makes it sound good/decent, based on having auditioned with the HD650 with the T1. I don't know if it would really bring out the full potential of the HD600 though (mainly because I have not been able to pair the HD650 with a better setup, not that the pairing sounded bad).


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

That's great. My boss bought the HD650 and have not amped it yet... So he asks me for a recommendation, but my O2 could not drive the cans and I suppose my Little Dot I+ wouldn't, either. Gonna bring the Aune T1 for him to try.


----------



## mikoss

Works great with the 6xx series phones. Not quite as powerful as using an external amp, but a very detailed, tonally correct presentation can be had. 

I would urge you to try some Holland tubes with these headphones. The midrange can sound very, very nice. 

I am pretty sure Aune tested the T1 with the 6xx series headphones... It may sound a bit polite, but I enjoy the sound myself quite a lot.


----------



## Chris Ihao

williamleonhart said:


> Can the Aune drive your HD600 effectively? I strongly suppose no, but guess it never hurts to ask




I can only confirm what the others are saying. It is more than enough capable of driving these babies well. I would get another tube though, as the stock one is kind of "not excellent", but the amp itself is more than sufficient enough for driving my 650's. If I weren't so darned curious, I would probably be happy with the T1 and my Oppo ha2 now, but I will probably get more amps in due time.


----------



## nonobody

T1 stock tubes and the HD600 is perfection.. i created and account just to tell you that..
 though the gold lion or the tesla tubes might sound better, I just love the tonality of the stock tubes with the HD600..
 If you have extra cash or planning for a future upgrade, you could try pairing it with little dot MK IV.. mmhmm perfection....


----------



## Chris Ihao

nonobody said:


> T1 stock tubes and the HD600 is perfection.. i created and account just to tell you that..
> 
> though the gold lion or the tesla tubes might sound better, I just love the tonality of the stock tubes with the HD600..
> 
> If you have extra cash or planning for a future upgrade, you could try pairing it with little dot MK IV.. mmhmm perfection....




I just feel the stock one is a bit harsh and cold. Not exactly what I want achieve with a tube, as I wanted to add a counterweight to my bright PS1000's. It hasn't been burnt in yet though, so I cant tell for sure how it pans out over time.


----------



## nonobody

chris ihao said:


> I just feel the stock one is a bit harsh and cold. Not exactly what I want achieve with a tube, as I wanted to add a counterweight to my bright PS1000's. It hasn't been burnt in yet though, so I cant tell for sure how it pans out over time.


 
 well I think this is a subjectivity issue, aftermarket tubes does sounds sweeter and smoother.. but rather the tonality and clean feeling from the stock tube pairing up with the HD600 gave me away.

 Are you planning to get a tube amp or matter of fact little dot MK4, these sounds really good with grados especially the PS1000. The warmness of the tubes (with T1 stock tubes) actually balance out the brightness of the PS1000's without losing the speed. Changing the aune T1 tube to Tesla tubes does slower down the overall on the PS1000 which actually sounds good with slow rock ballad, but for fast songs it actully feels a bit lacking.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

I roll different tubes for different types of music.  Certain tube characteristics seem to synergize better with certain music.  Although this is far from an exact science these are what I tend to go with:
  
 Jazz | Blues - > 1966 Siemens E88CC (Wiener Radio Werkes)
Rock | Classical -> 1963 Amperex Holland 7308 BB
 Pop | Country -> 1970 Amperex USA E88CC


----------



## theexexpat

Hello
  
 Complete newb here! I have read thru the thread as much as I can but am still stuck.
  
 I'm getting sound out of my macbook pro (mid-2014) via USB but the sound is very distorted. I have tried changing the gain settings to no avail - can anyone help with this issue please? I'm listening to Tidal/flac via Chrome to HD700.
  
 Or do I have a faulty unit?
  
 Thank you


----------



## penmarker

There should be no distortions at all. I've tried my unit with a MacBook and it sounded fine. That unit must be faulty. Try plugging it into a different computer first to confirm.


----------



## rwpritchett

Could also be a bad tube. theexexpat: do you have another tube to try?


----------



## theexexpat

Thanks its a good idea - I will try it on my server.
  
 In terms of the settings on the macbook do I set the format to 96Khz and 2ch-24 bit?
  
 Also should I set vol to 95% on macbook then adjust vol on amp?
  
 What about the gain switches?
  
 Any help is really appreciated.


----------



## theexexpat

rwpritchett said:


> Could also be a bad tube. theexexpat: do you have another tube to try?


 
 Sadly not I only have the supplied tube. Is there anyway to physically tell if the tube is broken? To be honest I did break those plastic guards by accident but I don't think I damaged the tube.
 I guess I'll try on the server then return to amazon if its distorted there too.


----------



## xkonfuzed

theexexpat said:


> Thanks its a good idea - I will try it on my server.
> 
> In terms of the settings on the macbook do I set the format to 96Khz and 2ch-24 bit?
> 
> ...


 
 Just when i thought Aune fixed their QC issues..
  
 Yes, keep it at that format. 
  
 Not necessarily, but i would try fiddling around with the volume. Maybe set it on 70% then control it from the amp? 
  
 Unless you have the gain on 16db and the volume all the way up, i dont think this is from the gain. 
  
 And don't worry you havent damaged the tube by breaking the acrylic cover cage, almost everyone on the thread (including me) has broken it. For now just try to verify if you really do have a defective unit. Plug it into another computer and see.


----------



## Chris Ihao

theexexpat said:


> Sadly not I only have the supplied tube. Is there anyway to physically tell if the tube is broken? To be honest I did break those plastic guards by accident but I don't think I damaged the tube.
> I guess I'll try on the server then return to amazon if its distorted there too.




You're not using any kind of eq or loudness perchance? Sometimes, the signall will become distorted once the soundwaves overstep their boundaries.

Btw, redarding qc, the store I bought it from only have hade one return due to qc issues.


----------



## mikoss

Try unplugging the usb and using RCA in, so the DAC is bypassed.

Try different USB ports. 

Try different sampling rates.


----------



## teb1013

theexexpat said:


> Thanks its a good idea - I will try it on my server.
> 
> In terms of the settings on the macbook do I set the format to 96Khz and 2ch-24 bit?
> 
> ...



I keep my volume pretty much all the way up and use the 10db setting with my HD600s I then do all of my volume control on the amp. I don't know if the 700 requires more gain. BTW what does the distortion sound like. Although I have great results with TIDAL, sometimes I get an annoying stuttering sound and have to shut down the app and re start it. Good luck. The T1 is a great unit so don't get discouraged even if you have a faulty one.


----------



## xkonfuzed

Tube Review!
  
 I've been wanting to do a review of all my tubes, but wanted to wait until i had enough tubes. Anyway, these are my thoughts on the tubes i own. My audio chain is: PC > Foobar2k >Aune T1 > headphones.
 I've had the T1 for nearly 2 years now, and have experimented with tubes since last year. The first year or so of owning the T1, i was using the stock tube as i basically didn't find any faults in it. I liked the sound as is. However, after getting my first tube (Amperex 7308) and seeing how much of a difference it can make, the tube fever began. And my wallet only got thinner over time. Please keep in mind that these are my own, subjective thoughts that i write based on what i hear through my own, imperfect ears. 
  
 The headphones used for this evaluation are: 
 -Beyerdynamic DT880 250ohm 

  
 -M-Audio Q40 with HM5 pleather pads (thick version) and a red V-Moda cable

  
 -Sony MDR MA900

  
  
 This is my tube collection: 

  
  
*1. Electro-Harmonix 6922 (the stock tube): (Around $20)*

  
 Not a lot of wrong this tube does to be honest. I find it to be a great stock tube and i think Aune made the right choice in picking this as the stock tube. From my findings, this tube slightly V-shaped. Bass extension is very deep, however the bass is loose. This is particularly noticed when you compare it to better tubes. There is also a nice amount of midbass punch. Mids, well, they're interesting. I have found vocals to have a "raw" feeling to them. They just don't sound that smooth or refined. They're slightly behind the bass and treble, but not by much (tiny amount). The highs are slightly etched (especially the very upper regions), i would say that the treble is decent but can somewhat sound splashy and uncontrolled at times. Soundstage is wide, imaging is mediocre. 
 Overall a good tube, but nothing really stands out or makes you dance. 
  
*2. USSR 6N23P NOS, late 60's or early 70's production. *NOT the Voshkod version* ($8)*

  
 Very dull and lifeless tube. Bass is soft and lacks extension. Highs are rolled off. The mids, though, are somewhat decent. Female vocals sound nice on this tube. This is also partly due to the fact that it has a small soundstage. This makes for a very intimate sound experience. Detail, clarity, transparency of this tube are weak in my opinion. Overall: Cheap. Decent mids. Everything else is bad. Avoid this tube. 
  
*3. Amperex 7308 NOS: ($50-90), I got it for $65.*

  
 What can i say that hasn't already been said. This is the benchmark tube in my collection, and its also my favorite. There is honestly not a thing this does wrong. I've had it for a year now and i thought that as time goes on im going to notice something that sucks about it, but in all honesty there isn't. Detail, clarity, transparency? Top-notch. The clarity is especially amazing here. Bass goes low. Really low. And it stays tight. Its not the bassiest tube out there but it does pack some nice punch. Mids are astonishing. Ultra-smooth. Hold on, let me say that again. Smooth. Extremely clear with a very slight hint of warmth that makes them that much more musical. Treble is also clean and clear. Nothing rolled off here. Soundstage is also the widest out of my tubes, and imaging is great. I have been listening to Hans Zimmer's "Rush" movie official soundtrack on this tube, coupled with my MA900's which already have a wide soundstage, the experience was sublime. 
 Overall: Neutral tube with a slight hint of warmth, and superb sonic abilities. Expensive, but worth it in my opinion. Recommended!
  
*4. Amperex 6DJ8 (Or is it?) Small Halo Getter NOS, made in Holland. ($20)*
 I thought i stumbled upon a gem when i saw a 6DJ8 Amperex for $20, but then i realized this might actually be fake. Firstly, the writing on it actually says "Electron United" in yellow. After reading more and more about tubes, i learned that genuine Amperex tubes have gold pins, a circle in the middle of the pins, and 4 lines that start on the top of the tube. This particular tube does not have the circle, and it doesn't have gold pins. Most of you guys here are more knowledgeable at identifying tubes, so please tell me what exactly this tube is.

  
 Anyway, onto the sound: This thing is MUSICAL. Very, very warm tube. The bass is softer than what i would prefer and the subbass is not as present, but nevertheless it has good quality bass. Mids are very musical and warm. Guitars and stringed instruments sound wonderful on this tube. The mids are also very slightly forward, but they're extremely smooth and never sound "raw" like in the stock tube for example. Treble takes a step back here. This definitely has the most subdued highs of all my tubes. But i like that actually. The soundstage here is almost as wide as the 7308, but not quite. Imaging is only decent. Technical abilities such as clarity, detail and transparency are good, but they're not as good as the 7308 for example. Still close to be honest. Again, this is an extremely musical tube. You plug it in and you simply won't care if its not technically superior to your other tubes. This is the kind of tube that you would not mind listening to for the entire day. Its impossible to hate this tube. 
 Overall: Warm and musical. Well worth the price i payed for. Recommended!
  
*5. Siemens ECC88 NOS ($23)* (thanks @mikoss for recommending this tube!)

  
 I was looking for a tube that does electronic music well and ended up getting this. So, is it any good? Yes. Absolutely. First thing i want to mention is the level of detail this thing has. I was shocked. This thing costs as much as makes no difference half the price of my Amperex 7308 and has the same amount of detail. And the 7308 is already hyper-detailed to my ears. Both those tubes are the most detailed in my collection. This tube is fun! The bass extension is deep and subbass has got a lot of presence. Bass quality is very good, bass stays tight and controlled. Maybe there's a tiny, and i mean tiny bit of looseness but that may be my imagination. This tube had the impact i was searching for in the bass. The mids are withdrawn and sound a bit thin compared to say the 6dj8 Amperex. However, they are clear and detailed. The highs have slightly more presence than neutral, but the treble is not that fatiguing. Unlike the stock tube, the treble here (although etched) is clean and not splashy. Soundstage is only decent, however the imaging is extremely good. This tube has the best imaging in my collection. Definitely a keeper. 
 Overall: Very fun tube. Boosted bass and highs, excels with electronic. Recommended!
  
*6. GE Smokie 6DJ8 NOS ($18)*

 First of all, can i say this tube looks like nobody's business when plugged in to the T1. It honestly looks menacing and badass. I've never enjoyed looking at a tube this much before. 
 In terms of sound, this is definitely one of the budget kings. Has a very enjoyable and fun sound. This thing has strong midbass. Probably the most powerful midbass of all my tubes. Subbass extension is also good. Mids are not forward nor recessed (or at least to my ears) they are right where they should be. The mids are meaty and thicker in comparison to they Siemens. Actually the sound as a whole feels more meaty and authoritative. The highs are also very nice. They are slightly laid back (very slightly) which makes them work for brighter headphones. This tube has great clarity and transparency for its price. 
 Overall: A budget king. Bassy without making the rest of the frequency suffer. Recommended!
  
 These have been my thoughts on the different tubes i own. Again, this is a subjective review. Your findings and opinions may vary 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.


----------



## hdtv00

Show some better pictures of the Amperex and people might be able to help you ID it. Not all Amperex have gold pins, there are lots of Orange globe tubes that don't have gold pins. And it was very very common for other companies to print their own labels on the tubes after ordering so really not shocking to find a great tube with some obscure lettering. Anyway some close pics of it mid and upper getter in the pics would help.

  


 I'd do a review of my many tubes but nearly everythings been said before so.


----------



## xkonfuzed

Not the best pics in terms of quality, but the DSLR i used to get pictures for the review had to go - its not mine. I hope these are sufficient. Thanks.


Spoiler: Tube pics


----------



## Chris Ihao

xkonfuzed said:


> Tube Review!
> 
> I've been wanting to do a review of all my tubes, but wanted to wait until i had enough tubes. Anyway, these are my thoughts on the tubes i own./




Wow.! Excellent work man, and thanks for taking your time to write up these observations. These will be very helpful when I soon will get my first non-stock amp. Cheers!


----------



## xkonfuzed

chris ihao said:


> Wow.! Excellent work man, and thanks for taking your time to write up these observations. These will be very helpful when I soon will get my first non-stock amp. Cheers!


 
 My pleasure. I actually enjoy doing reviews like these.
  
 Tell us how it goes!


----------



## theexexpat

Hi Guys
  
 Thanks for all responses it was the same on the server so its being returned.
 Shame really. I will chat to amazon UK today to see if they can send a replacement asap.


----------



## sonic2911

theexexpat said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> Thanks for all responses it was the same on the server so its being returned.
> Shame really. I will chat to amazon UK today to see if they can send a replacement asap.


 

 Have same problem like you, even with the replacement. What's ur headphone? Best setting I can try now to live with it: 75% windows mixer, -3.25 or -5.05db foobar2k, 10db gain from the unit, try it


----------



## canthearyou

Just restarted my Tidal subscription as my source of music. 
I have two different amps one the T1 the other a Matrix M-Stage HPA2. 
I installed ASIO bridge via Hifi cable. 
ASIO bridge recognizes the M-Stage but not the T1. 
Tidal>ASIO Bridge>M-Stage music plays perfectly. 
Tidal>T1 and I get random little "clicks" that interrupt my listening. 

Anything I can do?

Edit: I didn't mean to post this here, but I'll leave it for now.


----------



## mikoss

Try adjusting your buffer settings. If you're using windows, go to your power management and change the options so the CPU isn't idling. 

Start-power options-change plan settings-change advanced power settings-processor power management-minimum processor state

Change that to 100%.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

mikoss said:


> Try adjusting your buffer settings. If you're using windows, go to your power management and change the options so the CPU isn't idling.
> 
> Start-power options-change plan settings-change advanced power settings-processor power management-minimum processor state
> 
> Change that to 100%.


 
 Wouldn't that overheat the CPU :s


----------



## mikoss

Nope.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

But that's strange. I think that changing the buffer (in foobar) will solve the problems. Pardon my limited knowledge, but how would changing CPU state help in this case?


----------



## mikoss

Windows is crap. I've had problems in the past with other equipment based on the power management settings. These settings did not exist so stringently prior to Windows 7 (or perhaps Vista, though I never had an issue like this with that OS). 

The settings won't harm your computer in any way, they simply tell Windows to stop trying to cripple the CPU in an attempt to save power. You can press crtl shift escape and look at the running tasks and CPU usage. It will simply idle when it doesn't need to be used.


----------



## canthearyou

Is it possible to use ASIO bridge with the T1 MK2?


----------



## manywelps

So I just picked up an Aune T1 MK2... and it won't even turn on.
  
 Where is the warranty site?


----------



## mikoss

Where did you buy it? You can check the transformer near the wall plug, I believe it may have a fuse inside. I can check mine tonight and get back to you on that. 

Sales@auneaudio.com is one email for Aune
And you could try their website as well.


----------



## manywelps

I emailed aune.
  
 I bought it "lightly used" off ebay, I just received it.  $10 in shipping, $10 back if I choose that route... negative feedback if they don't give me a shipping label.  Check your inventory before you ship...
  
 The transformer gets warm so that looks fine, the rear switch on the Aune has a LOT of slack (but it does change positions)


----------



## mikoss

Sounds like the switch may be NFG. You could also pop open the bottom to see if the led's are coming on inside (two green ones on the headphone amp board), but that involves removing the rubber feet which may void the warranty. 

If the transformer is getting warm, chances are the fuse is fine. (I believe it's on the primary side of the transformer.)

If you have a digital multimeter, you can very carefully check the pins on the power connector. Check on VAC and you should have 36V between two of the pins IIRC.

Edit: if you choose to check the voltage, please be extremely careful as it's easy to accidentally ground out a pin with your meter lead. It's a very tight spot!!!!


----------



## manywelps

The ebay seller was chill and just flat out refunded it.
  
 I'm not going to void the warranty unless Aune says they won't take care of it.


----------



## mikoss

Yeah that's really too bad. Seems to be the only caveat with buying this product... The quality control. Aune has also gone on to produce a lot more different products, so I have to wonder about them as well. 

Hoping the next iteration of the T1 will have some improvements, if they ever do release a new version. I'd like the tube to be active on the RCA input, that would kick some ass.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

But the tube is actually active on the RCA...


----------



## mikoss

williamleonhart said:


> But the tube is actually active on the RCA...


 
 Not on the RCA input, just the USB input


----------



## manywelps

williamleonhart said:


> But the tube is actually active on the RCA...


 
 He said RCA in, not out.


----------



## Thenewguy007

Read through the first few pages of this thread, but can anyone confirm the amp of the T1 mk2 has been drastically improved?
  
 Joeq70 February update mentions nothing about the amp improvement.


----------



## Kozic

thenewguy007 said:


> Read through the first few pages of this thread, but can anyone confirm the amp of the T1 mk2 has been drastically improved?
> 
> Joeq70 February update mentions nothing about the amp improvement.


I believe the amp is the same mk1 to mk2 its the DAC that was upgraded.


----------



## xkonfuzed

The main difference is that they made the MK2 asynchronous. Don't know if that improved the sound or not though.


----------



## Thenewguy007

But the amp is good right? Not the bare minimum budget one like Joeq70 said on the MK1?


----------



## Kozic

The T1 has a OK amp the tube filtered DAC is its strong point IMO. I have it feeding a Asgard 2. If you are looking for a small desk top set up and driving some lower ohm headphones it works fine.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

I've heard people said that the amp section in the T1 only costs $8 to replace. So it surprised me a lot when you guys here say that the T1 can drive the HD650 and HD600 well. Even my O2 can't do that. To be fair it only has 3.5 gain though.


----------



## hdtv00

Yea on 0 gain on the T1 either of them it's worthless for the 650 and 600 if you ask me. 10 db gain is the sweet spot on it.


----------



## mikoss

Blasphemy. I listen on 0dB all the time with my 650's... 10dB sounds compressed to me and a lot of the details I hear at 0dB are gone.
  
 Volume pot maybe 1/4 to maybe 1/2 way.


----------



## hdtv00

Well yea that may be more true. Because since I listen to my 560 II's more than I did the others....The 560 is listed as a 300 ohm pair but it uses at least 30% more volume knob than the 650 does to match output.


----------



## Thenewguy007

hdtv00 said:


> Yea on 0 gain on the T1 either of them it's worthless for the 650 and 600 if you ask me. 10 db gain is the sweet spot on it.


 
  
  


williamleonhart said:


> I've heard people said that the amp section in the T1 only costs $8 to replace. So it surprised me a lot when you guys here say that the T1 can drive the HD650 and HD600 well. Even my O2 can't do that. To be fair it only has 3.5 gain though.


 
  
  


kozic said:


> The T1 has a OK amp the tube filtered DAC is its strong point IMO. I have it feeding a Asgard 2. If you are looking for a small desk top set up and driving some lower ohm headphones it works fine.


 
  
 WHAT?
 I asked in the recommendations thread & people said the O2 & T1 mk 2 would be fine to drive a HD600 (my headphone).
 They even said that the Asgard 2 wasn't as good a amp as those two & had more shortcomings.
  
 I'm literally grasping at straws here & taking anyone advice now. Narrowing down the quality headphones was a herculean tasks & finding good amps seems much MUCH harder.
 I was initially going to get a Fiio, then people said how bad they are & pointed me to the Schiit. Then people have been saying Schiit are overrated & I can get Chinese amps for half the price & better sound,
 My only knowledge of amps is the more it costs the better it is.
  
  
So is the Asgard 2 a better pure amp than those two, for mainly driving a Sennheiser HD600?
 I also have a AD700 & a Fidelio X1 as secondary headphones, would it be good for them as well?
  
 I am looking to buy a DAC only after I buy a good amp in the $200-$300 range.


----------



## SirMarc

The T1 with a good tube, I use an Amperex 7308, as a DAC into the Asgard 2 driving HD600's sounds awesome. In my opinion this combo gives the best of both worlds, the warmth of a tube, and the drive and punch of solid state. The T1's amp section was ok with the 600's at higher gain, but they came alive with the Asgard 2, better bass, bigger more detailed soundstage, better instrument separation, etc... Haven't upgraded in a while, which says something...


----------



## Kozic

thenewguy007 said:


> WHAT?
> I asked in the recommendations thread & people said the O2 & T1 mk 2 would be fine to drive a HD600 (my headphone).
> They even said that the Asgard 2 wasn't as good a amp as those two & had more shortcomings.
> 
> ...


 

 Will the T1 drive the HD-600 yes will it sound better than a ipod/phone yes,but will they sound their best no.
 fiio makes good stuff for the price yes. who ever said you can get a better sounding amp for $50 compared to the Schiit Magni 2 I would like to know what it is.
 It comes down to what you want if you are going to stay with the HD600 for a long time the PC>T1>$100/$150 amp>headphone chain will be a very good sound, but if you want to try some higher end headphones getting a $200/$300 amp now can let you just plug them in and not have any issues.
 The T1 is a fine DAC that lets you play with tube rolling and without breaking the bank. That is whats great about it.
 Good luck and.......
 As always IMO


----------



## hdtv00

It'll be fine man. I just meant by what I said that I flip the switches so it's 10 db gain is all. Like others mention I LOVE it as a DAC with the right tubes. Nothing beats it for that I think , well you know for price range and what not. I have mine feeding a bottlehead crack so I found perfection if you ask me with the combo. Pure Joy , sounds like angels singing when I listen to music. Right tubes , with T1 and the right tubes in the crack tung sol 5998 and orange globe or telefunken in crack paired with a OG holland in T1 and music is beyond layered and holographic sounding. I wouldn't trade it for anything.
  
 The Aune T1 is good enough I bought one from here for a wedding gift for a friend. So it's not worthless. It'll be fine. And one day you want to step up to a crack to power things and you can find perfection too. Cracks are on sale in the forum here all the time. I seen stock one for $300 just the other day.


----------



## Hansotek

thenewguy007 said:


> WHAT?
> I asked in the recommendations thread & people said the O2 & T1 mk 2 would be fine to drive a HD600 (my headphone).
> They even said that the Asgard 2 wasn't as good a amp as those two & had more shortcomings.
> 
> ...


 
  
 The Asgard 2 vs. O2 debate is really subjective. It's not surprising to hear about people fighting over it. They're both good amps. I actually like the O2 quite a bit, but given the choice between the two, I'd get the Asgard 2. It's going to be a better long term investment, in terms of build quality and resale value. It also allows a bit more versatility, as it has a little more power, and will give you a nice, slightly warm sound to compliment the AD700 and HD600.
  
 Quality-wise, both amps are going to blow the $8 CMOY in the Aune T1 out of the water. That being said, with a good tube in the DAC section, the T1's amp can sound pretty good. CMOYs are designed to sound good on the cheap. With a nice warm tube, the synergy of the sound becomes very balanced and quite pleasing.
  
 Do yourself a favor and don't buy any Fiio amps. They don't sound that good and the resale value is very poor.
  
 Schiit makes really good stuff. There are always going to be haters, no matter how good the product is. Schiit delivers really solid value. I own several of their products, and I've never been disappointed.
  
 I know you're probably a bit nervous about all of this, but you've clearly done your homework and are considering 3 very, very good products here. Honestly, you can't lose. All of these things sound really, really good. Go with your gut. And if, for some reason, you don't like it, just return it or sell it.


----------



## xkonfuzed

mikoss said:


> Blasphemy. I listen on 0dB all the time with my 650's... 10dB sounds compressed to me and a lot of the details I hear at 0dB are gone.
> 
> Volume pot maybe 1/4 to maybe 1/2 way.


 
 +1
  
 0db gain on my 250ohm Beyers, volume pot rarely goes past 1/4th of the way. I also listen to music on low volumes.


----------



## manywelps

So I emailed aune that I was having a problem, and they gave a few useless pointers.  The moment I mentioned RMA, they stopped responding.
  
 I've sent 10 emails since then, no response.
  
 I tried it from some dummy email addresses since then.  They'll respond to any email EXCEPT anything that mentions doing an RMA... which they'll ignore.


----------



## creatip

williamleonhart said:


> I've heard people said that the amp section in the T1 only costs $8 to replace. So it surprised me a lot when you guys here say that the T1 can drive the HD650 and HD600 well. Even my O2 can't do that. To be fair it only has 3.5 gain though.


 
  
 Sounds like there's a problem with your O2. O2 was originally designed to be very powerful, and can drive insensitive headphones in the market. Some even said O2 can borderly drive a HE-6.


----------



## manywelps

Does anyone have a contact email other than the general one?


----------



## walbum4262

manywelps said:


> Does anyone have a contact email other than the general one?



Where did you get your aune t1 ?
Directly from aune ? If not you should contact the vendor you got it from


----------



## manywelps

Ebay, used.  They refunded me, but there's not much sense in trashing the unit if I can do an RMA... if they would respond.


----------



## walbum4262

manywelps said:


> Ebay, used.  They refunded me, but there's not much sense in trashing the unit if I can do an RMA... if they would respond.




If you got it used does it still have any of the original warrenty left ?
And if you did get a refund from ebay why on earth should aune dish out a new unit for you ?


----------



## kdejonge

Can anyone confirm that the aune t1 mk2 comes with a 100-220v power supply as is mentioned on their site:
http://mall.auneaudio.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_30&product_id=42
  
 it looks like their with their earlier models you had to choose. I will be traveling between Europe and the us so would love to keep it simple.


----------



## manywelps

walbum4262 said:


> manywelps said:
> 
> 
> > Ebay, used.  They refunded me, but there's not much sense in trashing the unit if I can do an RMA... if they would respond.
> ...


 

 Couldn't tell you, I asked, but they won't respond.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Okay, so 2 things, one, I'm wanting the black T1 MK2, and I currently have a pristine silver MK1, and would be willing to trade + a bit of money + some tubes, hit me up if you're interested. Second, I am wanting to upgrade the capacitors and I keep seeing the ELNA Silmic II and the ELNA Cerafine, and supposedly the Silmic II is more tube-y or something and the Cerafine is faster with a bigger soundstage and sharper treble, I'm just curious on which one I should like if I am looking for some more bass OOMPH and tightness in my HE-400i and possibly wider soundstage. I just want to know how both of them affect the bass and then the soundstage as well. Also, the power caps everyone mentions, the Panasonic FR, are there any *better* alternatives or should I just get those?
Thanks a million!
gopanthersgo1


----------



## mikoss

The Panasonic caps will help the bass immensely. I have only heard the Silmic II's, but I have heard from others who prefer them to the Cerafines. 

If I can make a suggestion, the T1 colours the sound nicely, in a warm/ tubey way. If you want accuracy, go for the Wyrd + Modi 2 uber combo. I have been converted myself to a more accurate sounding system. But the T1 with upgraded capacitors is very nice.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

mikoss said:


> The Panasonic caps will help the bass immensely. I have only heard the Silmic II's, but I have heard from others who prefer them to the Cerafines.
> 
> If I can make a suggestion, the T1 colours the sound nicely, in a warm/ tubey way. If you want accuracy, go for the Wyrd + Modi 2 uber combo. I have been converted myself to a more accurate sounding system. But the T1 with upgraded capacitors is very nice.


How do you like that setup? I like the idea of the tube rolling is the only thing, how do you compare the modi 2 to the Aune T1 after the mods in regards to the bass and the soundstage/imaging?


----------



## xkonfuzed

Good news - for those interested, I just discovered that the T1 works perfectly with the PS4. I didn't expect it to work as I've tried hooking up my Sabre DAC a while back and it hissed like crazy and cut out every few seconds. The T1 works perfectly though.
  
 I don't know why I haven't tried this any earlier, I have been stuck with my TV's headphone out for too long. The difference is immense, I can actually hear birds chirping in the background from the mic of the 12 year old who has been cussing at me for the past hour and a half 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.


----------



## mikoss

gopanthersgo1 said:


> How do you like that setup? I like the idea of the tube rolling is the only thing, how do you compare the modi 2 to the Aune T1 after the mods in regards to the bass and the soundstage/imaging?



Hmm that is a tough call. With regards to detail retrieval and overall resolution, the Modi 2 is a step above the T1. With regards to bass and soundstage, some tubes with the T1 can sound like they have more bass/different soundstage. To me, the E188CC Phillips Miniwatt tubes, and Siemens CCa tubes sound incredible. 

Honestly, the T1 is a nice solution if you want to experience different tubes. I would say that the Modi 2 is a huge step above the original Modi, and worthy for detail retrieval.


----------



## Rainbow66

I just received my T1 and it's a great sounding amp/dac but when I try to connect it to my nexus 7 or LG G3 with an otg cable it does not work. Sound stops playing through speakers on both but no sound through headphones. Anyone got any ideas on what the problem could be?


----------



## walbum4262

rainbow66 said:


> I just received my T1 and it's a great sounding amp/dac but when I try to connect it to my nexus 7 or LG G3 with an otg cable it does not work. Sound stops playing through speakers on both but no sound through headphones. Anyone got any ideas on what the problem could be?



You may experience the same thing as with iPhone then you need a usb hub. Here is a link for a few pages back about it
http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-ss-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq-updated-on-02-14-15/7155#post_11662169


----------



## SirMarc

walbum4262 said:


> You may experience the same thing as with iPhone then you need a usb hub. Here is a link for a few pages back about it
> http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-ss-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq-updated-on-02-14-15/7155#post_11662169



There are 2 things you can try. First, make sure your otg cable is good. I've bought 2 that didn't work. Second, if you're sure the otg cable is good, there is an app called USB audio pro. It bypasses all internal processing and sends a bit perfect stream to the t1. I use it with my nexus 10 and HTC one m8 with great results.


----------



## Rainbow66

Ok thanks, I will buy a powered USB hub and see if that works. Also is it possible with the powered USB hub connected to the nexus 7 that you can connect an external HDD and the Aune T1 and play FLAC music from the HDD?


----------



## xkonfuzed

mikoss said:


> Hmm that is a tough call. With regards to detail retrieval and overall resolution, the Modi 2 is a step above the T1. With regards to bass and soundstage, some tubes with the T1 can sound like they have more bass/different soundstage. To me, the E188CC Phillips Miniwatt tubes, and Siemens CCa tubes sound incredible.
> 
> Honestly, the T1 is a nice solution if you want to experience different tubes. I would say that the Modi 2 is a huge step above the original Modi, and worthy for detail retrieval.


 
 Which one do you prefer in terms of overall musicality ?


----------



## kdejonge

kdejonge said:


> Can anyone confirm that the aune t1 mk2 comes with a 100-220v power supply as is mentioned on their site:
> http://mall.auneaudio.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_30&product_id=42
> 
> it looks like their with their earlier models you had to choose. I will be traveling between Europe and the us so would love to keep it simple.


 

 Anyone? Please just check the power cord to see it also supports 220


----------



## mikoss

xkonfuzed said:


> Which one do you prefer in terms of overall musicality ?



By itself, the T1 is a DAC/head amp and pre-amp. So it's the all in one that sounds good.

Feeding a tube amp, the Modi2u is preferred.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

xkonfuzed said:


> Which one do you prefer in terms of overall musicality ?


 
*As a standalone DAC*, then I'd say the Aune T1 is more musical. After all, it's a tube DAC.
  
 However if you have a high quality tube amp, then I think you'd go better with the Modi.
  
 I have the ODAC, which is incredibly similar to the Modi. In comparison to the Aune T1, the ODAC & LD I+ is a better choice in terms of details and sound stage. However as I use the Aune T1 to feed my dad's speaker system, I still think it's a very solid choice in the price range.
  
 And obviously, like Mikoss said, *the Modi must be amped. *If you want to have a low/midrange Schitt tube sound solution, I'd suggest you buy the Vali to go with the Modi. However for Grados, Audio Technicas and others, I think the Aune T1 is a steal in the price range (I bought them used for less than $70).


----------



## Hansotek

williamleonhart said:


> xkonfuzed said:
> 
> 
> > Which one do you prefer in terms of overall musicality ?
> ...


 
  
 +1 to @mikoss and @lehoang15tuoi 's feedback. I have the ODAC & Wyrd feeding my main Burson HA160 setup, which feeds my detail addiction. The T1 is narrower, less detailed, less impactful and less extended, comparatively speaking. But the T1 is also less harsh, more musical and arguably more analogue sounding (depending on your judging criteria).
  
 My other setup can be a touch on the dry/analytical side at times, but I'd say I prefer it overall. If you're looking for pure musicality though, the T1 is probably the way to go. I second mikoss's recommendation of the Phillips Miniwatt 188CC tubes. They're a little pricey, but the synergy with the T1's onboard CMOY is crazy good. At moderate listening volumes, it's very hard to tell the difference between that combo and my other, much more expensive setup.


----------



## wgkwgk

FWIW,
 I used the Aune1 as a way to get into the tube rolling experiences.  I spend a year or so trying different tube and headphone combos.  I did a bunch of research on tubes (thank you head-fi members!), and tried many.  Here are my top 4 favorites (YMMV):

Telefunken NOS E88CC1 Siemens Cca NOS 1968
Amperex ECC88 A-Frame, NOS, Holland, 1970,  Mullard CV2492-gold pins; UK, NOS,1970; 
  
  
 Each has a different sound.  The T1 was an inexpensive way to learn a whole lot about tube rolling, and sound characteristics.  I got to the point where tube values were worth more than the T1.  It was a great ride for me, and within my budget.
  
 As you can see, I stuck with NOS tubes.  I agree with another head-fi'er that the Siemans Cca is an outstanding tube.


----------



## Rainbow66

xkonfuzed said:


> Good news - for those interested, I just discovered that the T1 works perfectly with the PS4. I didn't expect it to work as I've tried hooking up my Sabre DAC a while back and it hissed like crazy and cut out every few seconds. The T1 works perfectly though.
> 
> I don't know why I haven't tried this any earlier, I have been stuck with my TV's headphone out for too long. The difference is immense, I can actually hear birds chirping in the background from the mic of the 12 year old who has been cussing at me for the past hour and a half  .




Just tried to use the T1 with PS4 and can't get it to work, says USB headset connected but no sound. Not having much luck at the moment with my T1, only got it to work with the PC. Tried using USB audio pro with nexus 7 and that don't work either. Will try using a powered USB hub but I have a feeling that won't help.


----------



## SirMarc

rainbow66 said:


> Just tried to use the T1 with PS4 and can't get it to work, says USB headset connected but no sound. Not having much luck at the moment with my T1, only got it to work with the PC. Tried using USB audio pro with nexus 7 and that don't work either. Will try using a powered USB hub but I have a feeling that won't help.



Are you sure your otg cable is good? The same thing happened to me when I got my t1. I was very disappointed. After getting a new otg cable all I've used for the last year are my nexus 10 and HTC one m8.


----------



## melkenshawn

Just wondering, what gain settings do you guys use? I've just bought a HD 700 and was wondering which gain settings would go best with it.


----------



## xkonfuzed

rainbow66 said:


> Just tried to use the T1 with PS4 and can't get it to work, says USB headset connected but no sound. Not having much luck at the moment with my T1, only got it to work with the PC. Tried using USB audio pro with nexus 7 and that don't work either. Will try using a powered USB hub but I have a feeling that won't help.


 
 I think you have to fiddle around the output settings from the Devices sub-menu. I don't remember the exact steps but I will report back when I get on. 
  


melkenshawn said:


> Just wondering, what gain settings do you guys use? I've just bought a HD 700 and was wondering which gain settings would go best with it.


 
 0. Always 0 for me personally.


----------



## hdtv00

Even though I complained before about needing 10db on my 650's and for damn sure my 560 Ovation II's. 0 gain on the 700's for certain.


----------



## melkenshawn

hdtv00 said:


> Even though I complained before about needing 10db on my 650's and for damn sure my 560 Ovation II's. 0 gain on the 700's for certain.


 
 Hmm. I realized that as you increase the gain, the sound becomes more forward sounding. Anyway the Hd700 has been a little sibilant with the aune T1, should I change the tubes (EH 6922) or get another amp altogether? Thank you!


----------



## mikoss

Lol the EH tube certainly won't do your treble any favours... If you want a more neutral signature, try a Siemens tube. For warmth, try a Philips Holland. A bit less warmth, an Amperex US. Quick and revealing, try a Telefunken. 

I haven't heard the 700's, but would recommend a cheap Philips ECC88 or E88CC from Holland as a start...


----------



## melkenshawn

mikoss said:


> Lol the EH tube certainly won't do your treble any favours... If you want a more neutral signature, try a Siemens tube. For warmth, try a Philips Holland. A bit less warmth, an Amperex US. Quick and revealing, try a Telefunken.
> 
> I haven't heard the 700's, but would recommend a cheap Philips ECC88 or E88CC from Holland as a start...


 
 i've been looking at an amperex orange globe, do you think that will help with the sibilance issue?


----------



## melkenshawn

hdtv00 said:


> Even though I complained before about needing 10db on my 650's and for damn sure my 560 Ovation II's. 0 gain on the 700's for certain.


 
 Which tube do you use with your HD 700?


----------



## hdtv00

Oh no probably not orange globe those little suckers do magic to the highs and would probably make your issue worse. But if you see one cheap grab it because it is a nice tube. My solution , was sell the HD 700. I HATED it. I've described it as everything being bathed in treble. I can't tell you how much I hated the hd 700(well ok I guess I just did), but anyway the hd 650(which I also sold) was real nice with Orange Globe and my hd 560 Ovation II's were perfection with them. I bought another one just the other day to replace the one I dropped(RIP) last week or so. Killed me , was my best fav tube.
  
 I use my Aune as a DAC only now though , it feeds my bottlehead crack. But I gave it plenty of listen as an amp too. Tube rolling is fun times. Just don't get carried away (you will). It's fun to find bargains on ebay.
  
 Oh let me edit to give ideas on which you should get. Mullard, telefunken,Siemens, bugle boy maybe.


----------



## xkonfuzed

melkenshawn said:


> i've been looking at an amperex orange globe, do you think that will help with the sibilance issue?


 
 As Mikoss said, an Amperex would help. In my case I had the DT880 which, like the HD700, can be too forward in the treble sometimes. The Amperex 6DJ8 solved that problem to some extent. Its the softest sounding tube in the highs of all my tubes. Very good for bright cans. 
  
 Also, the brightness also comes from the amp part of the T1. Currently I have a Cayin C5DAC (review unit) in my possession, and the amp is noticeably less harsh in the highs than the T1.


----------



## mikoss

The Amperex and Philips tubes both have a "mellow" signature, which equates to the highs being somewhat rolled off. I personally find the Orange Globe 6DJ8/ECC88's to have polite sounding highs; the 6922/E88CC's are rated for 10,000 hrs and you may find the treble to be a touch more refined, and finally the most refined sounding treble is probably found in the "premium" tubes, which would be the 7308 or E188CC's. There are variances along the way, and I would give each tube about 20-40 hours of play time before making a decision.
  
 I also find the US made Amperex tubes to have a bit more emphasis on the treble, so it may not be what you're looking for.
  
 The PCM1793, which is the chip used in the DAC section should also not contribute to sibilant highs... it is definitely not a Sabre DAC. The Sabre DACs can have a lot of treble energy. If you do end up swapping DACs, you may want to avoid them, especially if you're finding an EH tube harsh. Tubes notoriously help people who suffer from harsh treble, but as @hdtv00 and @xkonfuzed mentioned, different gear combinations work well together.


----------



## Rainbow66

I have managed to get it working now, the powered USB hub has fixed the problem and it does work with the PS4 too, I didn't turn the volume high enough...duh. Got a 3tb external HDD with FLAC music connected to the Nexus 7 too and it works perfectly along side the T1 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





. Now I am trying to find the best music player app for android, will they all have the same sound quality because I am using the DAC? as I am currently using Poweramp and wondered if it would be better using USB Audio Player Pro...


----------



## hdtv00

Yea I'm pretty sure most who do it use USB Audio Player Pro. Even though andriod made improvements in how its audio works I think it's still the only way to keep it bit perfect and not converted in some way.


----------



## SirMarc

hdtv00 said:


> Yea I'm pretty sure most who do it use USB Audio Player Pro. Even though andriod made improvements in how its audio works I think it's still the only way to keep it bit perfect and not converted in some way.



Yeah, definitely use USB audio pro, it bypasses any audio processing done by the phone. You get a pure signal. Also, not sure it matters to you, but you can adjust balance, which is a must for me because I hear better out of one ear. Glad you got it going, now its time to kick back and enjoy...


----------



## manywelps

They finally responded!  That took a while...


----------



## WAAM

gopanthersgo1 said:


> Second, I am wanting to upgrade the capacitors and I keep seeing the ELNA Silmic II and the ELNA Cerafine, and supposedly the Silmic II is more tube-y or something and the Cerafine is faster with a bigger soundstage and sharper treble, I'm just curious on which one I should like if I am looking for some more bass OOMPH and tightness in my HE-400i and possibly wider soundstage. I just want to know how both of them affect the bass and then the soundstage as well. Also, the power caps everyone mentions, the Panasonic FR, are there any *better* alternatives or should I just get those?


 
 Cerafine is too cold/thin and bright sounding compared to SilmicII in case of Aune T1. Tried both but SilmicII sounded actually even more spacious than Cerafines, at least coupled with Panasonic FR as main pwr supply caps and latter one should be one of the best choices in that section specification-wise, so, I would stay with FR in there.
 About oomphy bass, I think You could try Vishay RSU038 series caps instead silmicII`s, they are widely available, cheaper and sound very good in my experience in all applications I have used them. They have nice punchy bass and kick usually. Depends on application but I think it will give good result, haven`t tried them with Aune T1 myself though, went straight to SilmicII+FR setup approved by many here.


----------



## mejobloggs

I have Aune T1 mk2 with 6922 tube from massdrop paired with AKG k612 pro.

I'm finding the highs very fatiguing. I want a much more warm sounding signature with less bright highs.

Is there a downside to just applying software eq? I'm using Spotify (Premium quality), and thinking of buying a license for this Spotify equalizer: http://www.equalify.me/

Or is there an EQ setting I can apply to all of Windows? So games as well? I'm new to audio and still trying to discover options


Or is there a tube I can try that'd help tone down the highs?


----------



## rwpritchett

If you have Jriver Media Center, you can play all audio through it's WDM driver which applies all sound enhancements from Jriver, such as EQ.


----------



## mikoss

For toning down the highs, I suggest a NOS Philips or Amperex tube from Holland. ECC88 or E88CC. For even nicer highs, try a 7308 or E188CC. Look for the delta symbol (half a triangle) and four creases on top. They sound very nice.


----------



## mejobloggs

Wow those tubes cost nearly as much as I paid for Aune T1


----------



## mikoss

I can search for you tomorrow if you want. Where do you live?


----------



## mejobloggs

New Zealand haha, probably can't get anything here


----------



## xkonfuzed

A while back, I posted a tube review here and asked whether anyone could identify if this tube was an original Amperex or not. I've gotten some better, higher quality pictures of it now. Can anyone identify it now?
  


Spoiler: Pics



*Click on "original" to view it in the highest quality.


----------



## OnyxVulpe

Guess I'm STILL waiting for mine. I hate FexEx, they're the only one who do this. Happens to get on the island a day early and they just let it sit, even when I had two packages come in on the same day if it wasn't "scheduled" to be delivered today they just leave it even if they're delivering something else here. I often get USPS packages 2-3 days earlier than expected.


----------



## xkonfuzed

FedEx are terrible. They have ridiculous shipping fees and they charge more for customs - at least in my country. Also, they're a lot slower than say DHL for example.


----------



## hdtv00

Well it does look like a few structure wise to some of mine. But the pics really aren't close enough to tell much. The only good pic for me is the last one.


----------



## mikoss

Oh yeah that's definitely a Heerlen, Holland made by Philips. Looks like ECC88. Was the plate grey or silver? Can't tell from the pics on my phone.


----------



## xkonfuzed

mikoss said:


> Oh yeah that's definitely a Heerlen, Holland made by Philips. Looks like ECC88. Was the plate grey or silver? Can't tell from the pics on my phone.


 
 Its silver.


----------



## mikoss

xkonfuzed said:


> Its silver.



Cool yeah that looks like a delta tube. Creases on the top, shape of the nipple, the construction of the getter and stage, mica and shield. 

How do you find the sound? Do you have any other Philips/Amperex tubes?


----------



## xkonfuzed

mikoss said:


> Cool yeah that looks like a delta tube. Creases on the top, shape of the nipple, the construction of the getter and stage, mica and shield.
> 
> How do you find the sound? Do you have any other Philips/Amperex tubes?


 
 Thanks for that!
  
 I found the sound to be very similar to how the guys here describe the Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8. Very soft sounding in the treble, a bit soft in the bass too, but wonderful, slightly forward midrange. Extremely musical. Pairs well with my brighter headphones. Soundstage and imaging are also impressive. The only other Amperex I own is the 7308, and compared to that, the 6DJ8 doesn't quite have the supreme transparency and clarity of the 7308, but its very close, and it makes up for it in musicality.


----------



## mejobloggs

Sounds like a tube that'd solve my issue with highs


----------



## xkonfuzed

mejobloggs said:


> Sounds like a tube that'd solve my issue with highs


 
 I'd imagine it will help take the edge off. What headphones are you using?


----------



## mikoss

Excellent impressions @xkonfuzed - sounds like you've described the Philips tubes very well. I also agree about the 7308's... very refined sounding treble.
  
 I would strongly recommend the E88CC and E188CC's for beautiful treble. It doesn't emphasize and bring out spatial cues like the Siemens CCa tubes do, but it's non-fatiguing, refined, and pleasant. I find the Siemens to do amazing things with imaging and details, but the treble has an emphasis that causes me fatigue just a bit.
  
 I think I have been suffering from hyperacusis and didn't even know it was a condition, but I do find tubes to be very pleasing, especially the upper end. Basically I am sensitive to treble and everyday noise in general. I can definitely handle the Philips/Amperex tubes though... Holland made ones especially. The US made ones are a different story... my opinion is that they shift the midrange focus the Holland ones have up a couple of notches, into the upper mids/treble region. It can bring out some different details, but ultimately with the 650's, I prefer the Holland tubes. Other headphones, who knows.


----------



## xkonfuzed

mikoss said:


> Excellent impressions @xkonfuzed - sounds like you've described the Philips tubes very well. I also agree about the 7308's... very refined sounding treble.
> 
> I would strongly recommend the E88CC and E188CC's for beautiful treble. It doesn't emphasize and bring out spatial cues like the Siemens CCa tubes do, but it's non-fatiguing, refined, and pleasant. I find the Siemens to do amazing things with imaging and details, but the treble has an emphasis that causes me fatigue just a bit.
> 
> I think I have been suffering from hyperacusis and didn't even know it was a condition, but I do find tubes to be very pleasing, especially the upper end. Basically I am sensitive to treble and everyday noise in general. I can definitely handle the Philips/Amperex tubes though... Holland made ones especially. The US made ones are a different story... my opinion is that they shift the midrange focus the Holland ones have up a couple of notches, into the upper mids/treble region. It can bring out some different details, but ultimately with the 650's, I prefer the Holland tubes. Other headphones, who knows.


 
 I own a Siemens ECC88 - albeit not as good as the E88CC nor the E188CC, but I absolutely agree with your findings. The imaging on that tube is laser-like and very accurate. Also concur on the detail part. These are my exact thoughts on it (quoted from my tube review): 


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I was looking for a tube that does electronic music well and ended up getting this. So, is it any good? Yes. Absolutely. First thing i want to mention is the level of detail this thing has. I was shocked. This thing costs as much as makes no difference half the price of my Amperex 7308 and has the same amount of detail. And the 7308 is already hyper-detailed to my ears. Both those tubes are the most detailed in my collection. This tube is fun! The bass extension is deep and subbass has got a lot of presence. Bass quality is very good, bass stays tight and controlled. Maybe there's a tiny, and i mean tiny bit of looseness but that may be my imagination. This tube had the impact i was searching for in the bass. The mids are withdrawn and sound a bit thin compared to say a 6dj8 Amperex. However, they are clear and detailed. The highs have slightly more presence than neutral, but the treble is not that fatiguing. Unlike the stock tube, the treble here (although etched) is clean and not splashy. Soundstage is only decent, however the imaging is extremely good. This tube has the best imaging in my collection. Definitely a keeper.


 For now though, I think I'm done with getting new tubes. I like to think that I've tried all tube sound signatures now, and should spend my money elsewhere. I'm saving up to get a better standalone Amp, either the Garage1217 Polaris or Ember. I might end up with the Polaris because going from tube DAC to tube Amp (Ember), well, it will be a pain to find the right synergy. What do you think?
  
 Also wanted to ask, how do you like your HD650's out of the WA2?


----------



## mikoss

Lol we seem to have the same impressions for those tubes, excellent!
  
 As for the WA2, it is a match made in heaven with the 650's. Here are my thoughts on it from a while ago. The Woo amps tend to sound like traditional tube amps... rolling in different tubes really makes a big difference in sound signatures, and they are very romantic sounding... warm, lush, organic.
  
 Since getting an Eddie Current though, I have to say that the Zana Deux with the 650's is perfection. It sounds very solid state with speed, precise details and plenty of power so that the bass/mids and highs sound very linear and dynamic. Where it really shines though is what it does with the tubes... you hear just the right amount of warmth so that you aren't left craving anything else, but it pushes through amazing euphonics. The resolution plus the euphonic decay is such an experience. I realize it costs quite a bit more than the T1, and also more than the Woo, but if you want the absolute best end-game amp for the 650's, the Zana Deux is definitely it (or top 3).
  
 I haven't rolled any of the tubes because it sounds so great stock. The WA2, I was constantly rolling different tubes, and it seems that a lot of Woo owners spend a lot of time chasing down different tube combos and trying different sounds, in search of something better. I was doing that for quite a while, and I have also stopped adding more tubes to my collection. The T1 is great for discovering tubes, and hearing different sounds for a reasonable price... the WA2 is a bit more costly, especially since you need matched pairs and power/rectifier tubes as well as the drivers.
  
 Haven't heard the Project amps, but there are a lot of people who like them... let us know if you do end up getting one. It's always cool to read about other gear that uses the 6DJ8 tube family.


----------



## xkonfuzed

That Zana Deux looks like its something special. Your mere description of that Amp is making my eyes water lol. Can't ignore that price tag though, $2,000 is way over my budget 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 I think the maximum I can go in terms of Amps (as of now) is $500, any more than that and I would have to wait a seriously long time to save up. Maybe one day though..
  
 I've also read a lot about people loving the pairing of  HD650's and Woo Audio amps in general. Damn, I really can't wait to climb up that audio ladder with you guys and get a taste of what the ultra-high end OTL's and SS amps are like. The only way to get that is to actually purchase the amp, which is a problem for me because there are no headphone meets and such in my region.
  
 Yup, will make sure I report with feedback about the amp once I buy it.


----------



## mejobloggs

xkonfuzed said:


> I'd imagine it will help take the edge off. What headphones are you using?



I have AKG k612 headphones.

I bought the Aune T1 for about $100 US and some tubes seem to be about that much which I can't afford. At the moment I'm browsing different sites trying to find a good tube for below $40 US that also ships to NZ. Seems a wee bit tricky to find


----------



## mikoss

mejobloggs said:


> I have AKG k612 headphones.
> 
> I bought the Aune T1 for about $100 US and some tubes seem to be about that much which I can't afford. At the moment I'm browsing different sites trying to find a good tube for below $40 US that also ships to NZ. Seems a wee bit tricky to find


 
*6922/E88CC tubes = longer life, a bit more refined than 6DJ8/ECC88 tubes:*
  
 Telefunken tube (fast, ss sounding, natural tube euphonics, not much warmth):
 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Telefunken-E88CC-6922-6DJ8-Vacuum-Tube-/131552290719?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1ea120a79f
  
 Amperex tube (US made, see post above):
 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MATCHED-PLATE-AMPEREX-6922-E88CC-USED-TUBE-TESTED-B-K-707-103-104-/281630662518?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item41927edf76
  
 I think this is also US made, can't tell:
 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOS-Amperex-6922-E88CC-Vintage-Tube-Gold-Pins-O-Getter-/151737045179?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23543b90bb
  
 Brimar CV2492 tube (Made in the UK, similar to the Holland 6922's):
 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-X-CV2492-6922-BRIMAR-TUBES-NOS-TUBES-PRICE-IS-FOR-1-PC-CRYOTREATED-/191294020982?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c8a031d76
  
*6DJ8/ECC88 = less life but cheaper:*
  
 6DJ8, Philips/Amperex Holland made:
 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Amperex-6DJ8-ECC88-Holland-TUBE-10-200-8750-/400940505443?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d59ea9963
  
 6DJ8, Philips/Amperex 1965 Holland made (A good deal, I'd recommend this tube):
 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Amperex-Holland-Bugle-Boy-white-text-ECC88-6DJ8-preamp-tube-tested-65-/351293745274?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cabd287a
  
 6DJ8, Philips/Amperex Holland (Also a decent deal):
 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ECC88-6DJ8-Made-In-Holland-/111717617410?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1a02e38f02
  
  
*More results:*
  
 http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=6922+tube&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=2&LH_BIN=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.X6dj8+holland.TRS0&_nkw=6dj8+holland&_sacat=0


----------



## Strat-Mangler

mikoss said:


> Excellent impressions @xkonfuzed - sounds like you've described the Philips tubes very well. I also agree about the 7308's... very refined sounding treble.
> 
> I would strongly recommend the E88CC and E188CC's for beautiful treble. It doesn't emphasize and bring out spatial cues like the Siemens CCa tubes do, but it's non-fatiguing, refined, and pleasant. I find the Siemens to do amazing things with imaging and details, but the treble has an emphasis that causes me fatigue just a bit.
> 
> I think I have been suffering from hyperacusis and didn't even know it was a condition, but I do find tubes to be very pleasing, especially the upper end. Basically I am sensitive to treble and everyday noise in general. I can definitely handle the Philips/Amperex tubes though... Holland made ones especially. The US made ones are a different story... my opinion is that they shift the midrange focus the Holland ones have up a couple of notches, into the upper mids/treble region. It can bring out some different details, but ultimately with the 650's, I prefer the Holland tubes. Other headphones, who knows.


 
 Hey Mike.
  
 I too suffer from hyperacusis. It's terrible and taxing on a day-to-day basis. Hang in there, bud!


----------



## Strat-Mangler

mikoss said:


> *6922/E88CC tubes = longer life, a bit more refined than 6DJ8/ECC88 tubes:*
> 
> Telefunken tube (fast, ss sounding, natural tube euphonics, not much warmth):
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Telefunken-E88CC-6922-6DJ8-Vacuum-Tube-/131552290719?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1ea120a79f
> ...


 
  
 I'd like to add that I did a direct comparison between the 7308 and 6DJ8 Amperex OG and I preferred the 6DJ8 by far. Giving a rough quantifying percentage, I'd say it sounds roughly 20-25% better in my view.


----------



## mejobloggs

I see eBay link for Amperex 1965 Holland says it's a used tube. Is that a good idea to buy used? How long are their lifespan?


----------



## mikoss

mejobloggs said:


> I see eBay link for Amperex 1965 Holland says it's a used tube. Is that a good idea to buy used? How long are their lifespan?


 
 I believe it says in the listing that it tested at 108 on a B&K 707 meter... full scale looks to be 120. 
 http://s473.photobucket.com/user/francm09/media/B%20K%20707%20Tube%20Tester/DSCF4050.jpg.html
  
 Life span should be at least 3000 hours. There is no guarantee that a new old stock tube will last 3000 hours, but having it test good on a tube tester is a good sign. It could last longer than 3000 hours as well.
  
  


strat-mangler said:


> Hey Mike.
> 
> I too suffer from hyperacusis. It's terrible and taxing on a day-to-day basis. Hang in there, bud!


 
 Oh man, I may have to PM and ask you about that. I always knew I had sensitive hearing, but I honestly had no idea how abnormal it was. My perfect day would be ear plugs 24/7, removed only to listen to headphones at a very low volume for as long as possible 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 Anyway, I have been taking it very easy with my listening sessions as it seems there is more and more "hurting" my ears - the shower, people talking, doors closing, pretty much everything. The door beep noise from my truck at work seems incredibly loud and makes me cringe everytime I get in the truck. Brutal, but at least no tinnitus or abnormal hearing loss. Booked to see a specialist in August, and do some LDL tests just to see where I'm at.


----------



## mejobloggs

Bought the tube 
  
 Said it'd take about 2 weeks to arrive. The anticipation


----------



## mikoss

Nice... the good thing about eBay is that everything seems to now be in the buyers favour. For example, even if the seller doesn't have a return policy, if you receive the tube and find it doesn't work properly, or has noise, or some other issue, you can contact eBay and have them resolve the issue with the seller, to your satisfaction. Of course, this may be a bit of a pain, especially if you end up waiting on shipping and such, but I've never been dissatisfied myself. Anyway, let us know how it goes.
  
 I've found NOS tubes take 20-40 hours to sound their best, if they truly haven't been used in a long while/ever. It's also been confirmed that the tube measurements change after 24 hours, so burn-in definitely exists for vacuum tubes.


----------



## mikoss

FYI Laurence is selling some very nice tubes in pairs. 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/774707/tubes-for-sale-cca-hg-e188cc-e88cc-ecc88

All of these work just fine with the Aune T1


----------



## mejobloggs

While I wait for my new tube can I bypass Aune T1 dac and use Fiio E07k for the dac?
  
 I just want to experiment what it sounds like using Aune amp and Fiio dac.
  
 Since this is my first venture into the amp/dac/headphone world I might as well mix and match everything to try out different sounds


----------



## melkenshawn

mejobloggs said:


> While I wait for my new tube can I bypass Aune T1 dac and use Fiio E07k for the dac?
> 
> I just want to experiment what it sounds like using Aune amp and Fiio dac.
> 
> Since this is my first venture into the amp/dac/headphone world I might as well mix and match everything to try out different sounds


 
 Im pretty sure you can't. The reason why is because your Fiio E07K lacks a RCA output. Unless you have a 3.5mm to RCA cable, i don't think you can connect your Fiio E07K to the rca input of your Aune T1. Then again, I don't have the Fiio E07K so i'm not sure if there are any other methods of connection.


----------



## OnyxVulpe

So glowy and tubey.
  
 Hottest I measured the tube get is 150F by the way, haha.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

onyxvulpe said:


> So glowy and tubey.
> 
> Hottest I measured the tube get is 150F by the way, haha.


 
 Def look better than my white T1!


mejobloggs said:


> While I wait for my new tube can I bypass Aune T1 dac and use Fiio E07k for the dac?
> 
> I just want to experiment what it sounds like using Aune amp and Fiio dac.
> 
> Since this is my first venture into the amp/dac/headphone world I might as well mix and match everything to try out different sounds


 
  


melkenshawn said:


> Im pretty sure you can't. The reason why is because your Fiio E07K lacks a RCA output. Unless you have a 3.5mm to RCA cable, i don't think you can connect your Fiio E07K to the rca input of your Aune T1. Then again, I don't have the Fiio E07K so i'm not sure if there are any other methods of connection.


 
 It depends on whether you can bypass the amp on the E07K (I suppose it has?). But then I don't think the integrated amp in the Aune is that great. It doesn't even go through the tube.


----------



## xkonfuzed

onyxvulpe said:


> So glowy and tubey.
> 
> Hottest I measured the tube get is 150F by the way, haha.


 
  
 Pshh, thats colder than the weather in my country


----------



## MadNarc

So I'm in the store today testing out the new Oppo PM-3 headphones - which I think will be great for out-of-home use. Then I saw the T1 Mk 2and gave it a listen. In short, very impressed with the sound. This was as good as some of the other SS amps that were more expensive, and who can say no to that glowy tube 
  
 Anyways I'm planning to get both (the PM-3 and the T1). The T1 will be my first venture into dacs/amps. One question though - while I'm perfectly fine with hooking this up to my pc, I'd still like the option of playing something off my iPhone or tablet once in awhile. I read earlier in the thread that what's needed is as follows:
 1) iPhone lightning camera connection cable
 2) A usb hub - unpowered is fine
 3) Basically hook up T1 -> hub -> camera connection cable -> iPhone/iPad
  
 Can anyone confirm that this works? The people in the store couldn't and I don't really want to go drop fifty bucks on the hub and cables unless I'm reasonably sure it works!


----------



## walbum4262

madnarc said:


> So I'm in the store today testing out the new Oppo PM-3 headphones - which I think will be great for out-of-home use. Then I saw the T1 Mk 2and gave it a listen. In short, very impressed with the sound. This was as good as some of the other SS amps that were more expensive, and who can say no to that glowy tube
> 
> Anyways I'm planning to get both (the PM-3 and the T1). The T1 will be my first venture into dacs/amps. One question though - while I'm perfectly fine with hooking this up to my pc, I'd still like the option of playing something off my iPhone or tablet once in awhile. I read earlier in the thread that what's needed is as follows:
> 
> ...



It works


----------



## mejobloggs

mejobloggs said:


> I see eBay link for Amperex 1965 Holland says it's a used tube. Is that a good idea to buy used? How long are their lifespan?


 
 I bought this tube http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Amperex-Holland-Bugle-Boy-white-text-ECC88-6DJ8-preamp-tube-tested-65-/351293745274?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cabd287a&rmvSB=true
  
 But the guy said he's lost the tube.
  
 -----------------------------------------------
 Hello,
 although I printed the shipping label for this item, I am having trouble locating the tube, and it may have been lost. I will give you a few options:

 I can supply you with a different tube, of a similar age, that tests just as well or better;
 I can refund your money and cancel the sale;
 or you can wait a few more days to see if the tube is found.

 sorry about the trouble- let me know what you might like to do.
 Adam
 -----------------------------------------------
  
 What do you reckon?
  
 The other option the seller has is http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-GE-General-Electric-6DJ8-preamp-tube-tested-USA-ECC-88-188-5-/351432746218?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51d30624ea
  
 That any good? Or should I just get a refund and look for another Amperex Holland?


----------



## mikoss

mejobloggs said:


> I bought this tube http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Amperex-Holland-Bugle-Boy-white-text-ECC88-6DJ8-preamp-tube-tested-65-/351293745274?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cabd287a&rmvSB=true
> 
> But the guy said he's lost the tube.
> 
> ...


 
  
  
 The GE tubes normally don't sell for as much as much as the Amperex tubes... it arguably isn't worth as much. You would be much better to ask for a replacement in kind, which would be an equivalent Amperex Holland tube. See if that is an option... before you agree to anything, you can post here with the info he gives and we will let you know if it's legit. 
  
 It's up to you though


----------



## ppdv

Hi,
  
 Was contemplating an upgrade of my headphones from ATH M50 to the HD650, but then I just pulled the trigger on the HD700 MD offer which was quite good and seemed to be a real step up to the next level.
  
 I have an Aune T1 which i plan to use with it. I have not yet upgraded or done tube rolling so far and i have not got much clue on which ones to buy out there on EBAY.
  
 Need your help and suggestions on what types of tubes are good match with HD700 sound signature  and any ebay links to any good deals / offers that i can buy.
  
 Cheers


----------



## mikoss

ppdv said:


> Hi,
> 
> Was contemplating an upgrade of my headphones from ATH M50 to the HD650, but then I just pulled the trigger on the HD700 MD offer which was quite good and seemed to be a real step up to the next level.
> 
> ...


 
 Tough call, with the HD-700's... such a divisive presentation with those headphones... what genres are you into? What kind of presentation are you looking for? I would also like to hear your thoughts after about 40-80 hours with the HD-700's... it will help to determine which tubes would work best. Eg. if the treble is sounding harsh, or if anything is sounding pushed forward or scooped out.
  
 Of the top of my head, I imagine the HD-700's would respond well to the usual suspects; The GE Smoked glass 6DJ8, the Amperex Holland Orange Globe 6DJ8, the Philips Holland ECC88/E88CC/E188CC... if you want a more neutral/transparent sound, try one of the new Telefunken tubes (cheaper than the NOS Telefunkens), or perhaps a NOS Siemens E88CC... 
  
 These headphones are perhaps a mix of the 650's and 800's, which ultimately fails for a lot of people. If you do enjoy them, it would be cool to hear your impressions with different tubes. I haven't had a lot of head time with the 700's myself, but Sennheiser generally has a very linear house sound, with an emphasis on some midrange warmth with the 650's, and some treble energy with the 800's. Unsure about the 700's. The 650's respond very well to the warmer Holland tubes, the 800's respond nicely to the more transparent Telefunken/Siemens tubes.
  
 All my opinion.


----------



## ppdv

mikoss said:


> Tough call, with the HD-700's... such a divisive presentation with those headphones... what genres are you into? What kind of presentation are you looking for? I would also like to hear your thoughts after about 40-80 hours with the HD-700's... it will help to determine which tubes would work best. Eg. if the treble is sounding harsh, or if anything is sounding pushed forward or scooped out.
> 
> Of the top of my head, I imagine the HD-700's would respond well to the usual suspects; The GE Smoked glass 6DJ8, the Amperex Holland Orange Globe 6DJ8, the Philips Holland ECC88/E88CC/E188CC... if you want a more neutral/transparent sound, try one of the new Telefunken tubes (cheaper than the NOS Telefunkens), or perhaps a NOS Siemens E88CC...
> 
> ...


 
 Hi mikoss
  
 Yes, i do see that its a very different type of like/hate towards the HD700 headphones. I was contemplating for a very long time ( read: 6 ~ 8 months ) on buying the HD650 and even tried them in a local store. However, one reason after another made me postpone and now when i could purchase it i just saw this offer and found it a bit tempting to resist.
  
 The wait for the headphones continue : yet to be shipped by MD.
  
 I am more into Rock/Hard Rock, Alternative, Metal, World Music (including celtic sometimes) and some pop/hip hop as well, but no blues, jazz,country, folk; better to give you examples that i listen to ( Metallica,Godsmack, Porcupinetree, AudioSlave, Scorpions, Rammstein, Yanni etc..).
  
 The presentation is actually a tough question, since i am not too sure what to expect: I come with a background of ATH M50 for full cans and SE 215 for in-ear monitors. But I like the guitar riffs to be strong, drums to be fast and accurate (especially snares) and vocals to be somewhat pronounced (need not be -"in your face" types ) and the overall music to be involving and not a clinical representation. 
  
 Let me know what tubes are good and I would appreciate if you can give me the links since tube buying is something I am getting into now and not really what to buy based on the posting on Ebay. I have seen the links posted by you in a bit earlier post, so can i choose a good tube from one of them or should i choose something else ?
  
 Cheers,
 Prashant


----------



## mikoss

Sounds like you would enjoy the Telefunken tubes... they are the quickest sounding tubes to my ears. The NOS Telefunkens are expensive, but JJ is currently making rebranded tubes which are supposed to be decent. I would imagine that they do not compare with the original Telefunkens, but it's worth a shot. 
  
 To give you an idea on cost, here are some links...
  
 Original Telefunken tubes - very fast, quick decay, "solid state" sounding, with a very natural sounding tube infused sound... not particularly warm or bloomy... good for faster genres like metal/jazz:
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Telefunken-E88cc-NOS-tube-/201388070918?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ee3aa1806
  
 (Note the getter and the support, with the dimple in the middle and the angle on it. Also note the number code vertically on the side, and the gold pins. Also note the dual supported stage, beneath the getter, and the shape of the grid. The ones made in Ulm, Germany have a diamond imprinted on the bottom... these are the most sought after).
  
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/TELEFUNKEN-E88CC-ECC88-CCa-6DJ8-6922-ULM-GERMANY-1968-GOLD-PIN-SINGLE-TUBE-/400959682714?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d5b0f389a
  
 (Another auction with good pictures, note how everything checks out as per above)
  
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1x-TELEFUNKEN-tube-E88CC-E88-CC-NOS-NIB-6L6-300B-AD1-Eb-AD1-350-380-CCA-/261963352743?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cfe3b8aa7
  
 (And another)
  
  
 Here are the new production tubes, made by JJ in Chekoslovakia. The black label ones are apparently hand selected.
 http://www.telefunken-elektroakustik.com/products/tubes/black-diamond-tubes/e88cc-tk.php
  
  
 I would also recommend a Russian tube; the Voskhod rocket style actually does quite well with faster genres, such as metal. Instead of buying off eBay, you may want to contact @rb2013 as he has a selection of tested tubes. He is also a great resource for 6DJ8 tubes, as he put up a fairly comprehensive review. He rates the Russian tubes as #1... I do not. He has a lot of believers in the tubes, and I personally found they worked best for fast genres, myself. The Russian tubes are a crapshoot on eBay, and I would strongly urge to consult rb. They are also fairly cheap, although he probably sells the most highly rated ones for more. I haven't heard any of his "holy grail" rated tubes, so I can't comment on them.
  
 PS. The model numbers and price of headphones doesn't dictate quality... (eg. the Beyer DT-880's imo are much better sounding headphones than some of their newer models.) Just food for thought. Price does not always equal listening pleasure.


----------



## chowmein83

ppdv said:


> Hi,
> 
> Was contemplating an upgrade of my headphones from ATH M50 to the HD650, but then I just pulled the trigger on the HD700 MD offer which was quite good and seemed to be a real step up to the next level.
> 
> ...


 
  
 I own the HD700 and the Aune T1 mk1. Besides the stock tube, the only other tubes that I have are all of the Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 kind.
  
 Some quick impressions of the Aune T1 with Orange Globe tubes and the HD700 combo:
  
 Vocals are definitely pronounced - but they aren't extremely in your face. Guitars come through cleanly and distinctly in rock music (I listened to some Eagles and Aerosmith to test this out), though I wouldn't say they are at the forefront of the music. The HD700 definitely is not clinical here - this combo gives it a bit of warmth that works well with most genres of music. Actually, I really like this combo because the Orange Globe tubes seem to tame the treble of the HD700 a bit (which is good for the HD700, but to me is a bit annoying with other headphones). The only complaint that I have is that the Orange Globe tubes don't seem to provide as much bass in comparison to other tubes (like the stock one) - but I'm not sure how important that is in rock music.
  
 In case if you're interested, here's a couple of listings on eBay that I found for the Orange Globes:
  
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/AMPEREX-ECC-88-6DJ8-MADE-IN-HOLLAND-ORANGE-GLOBE-VACUUM-ELECTRON-TUBE-GOOD-L-27-/400957560876?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d5aeed82c (for one tube)
  
 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SET-OF-4-AMPEREX-ORANGE-GLOBE-LOGO-ECC88-6DJ8-VINTAGE-TUBES-MADE-IN-HOLLAND-/261976576234?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cff0550ea (for a set of four tubes)
  
 In my experience, you should be fine buying used tubes, especially if the seller has good ratings and/or provides information how the used tubes have tested on some kind of machine. I actually bought a set of four used Orange Globes like the second listing, and the tubes are still going strong more than a year I bought them.
  
 *EDIT: Actually, I don't want to sound like I'm shamelessly promoting myself, but if you want, I can sell you some of my other Orange Globe tubes for cheap. Just PM me. But if you really are in Europe, I probably can't sell it to you because shipping costs would probably be higher than what I'd sell you the tubes for since I'm in the US.


----------



## ppdv

mikoss said:


> Sounds like you would enjoy the Telefunken tubes... they are the quickest sounding tubes to my ears. The NOS Telefunkens are expensive, but JJ is currently making rebranded tubes which are supposed to be decent. I would imagine that they do not compare with the original Telefunkens, but it's worth a shot.
> 
> To give you an idea on cost, here are some links...
> 
> ...


 
  
 Hi Mikoss,
  
 Appreciate the links and the information. I will get in touch with RB2013, was reading through his reviews, makes it much harder to decide now.
 Though i will probably get a telefunken (either ones from the ebay or the new ones )...
  


chowmein83 said:


> I own the HD700 and the Aune T1 mk1. Besides the stock tube, the only other tubes that I have are all of the Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 kind.
> 
> Some quick impressions of the Aune T1 with Orange Globe tubes and the HD700 combo:
> 
> ...


 
  
 @chowmien83 Thanks for the links  and you've got a pm.. since i do have an option for you to ship the tubes to the states, just in case you are willing to sell it .
  
  
 I cant wait to get my hands on the HD700's and start listening on them...


----------



## mejobloggs

mikoss said:


> The GE tubes normally don't sell for as much as much as the Amperex tubes... it arguably isn't worth as much. You would be much better to ask for a replacement in kind, which would be an equivalent Amperex Holland tube. See if that is an option... before you agree to anything, you can post here with the info he gives and we will let you know if it's legit.
> 
> It's up to you though


 
  
 Finally got a reply back from seller about other options.
  
 -----------------------------------------------
One 6DJ8 I have on hand was Holland-made, probably same factory as Amperex, but it also has a Mullard code near the base. What's more, it's branded by RCA in orange print. I believe it was used in a laboratory scope.
 -----------------------------------------------
  
 Any good you reckon? Otherwise I'll just go for a refund


----------



## mikoss

Sounds like it is probably a comparable tube... Ask if he can take a pic... Date/batch/factory code and internal construction need to be seen. 

I just swapped in a 6DJ8 orange globe to my Aune yesterday, since it's been over a year since I heard them. They're beautiful tubes. Mullards should have a B factory code if they were made in the UK. If the Mullard has a half triangle (delta) code, it's made by Philips/Amperex in Holland. 

The B code Mullard 6DJ8's seem to be a bit tougher to find, and can sound quite like the Holland tubes. To my ears, the mids are stunning... Very liquid sounding. The treble and bass is perhaps a bit drier than Holland tubes, but guitar on Mullards is bliss. 

All in my opinion.


----------



## mejobloggs

mikoss said:


> Sounds like it is probably a comparable tube... Ask if he can take a pic... Date/batch/factory code and internal construction need to be seen.
> 
> I just swapped in a 6DJ8 orange globe to my Aune yesterday, since it's been over a year since I heard them. They're beautiful tubes. Mullards should have a B factory code if they were made in the UK. If the Mullard has a half triangle (delta) code, it's made by Philips/Amperex in Holland.
> 
> ...


 
 Pics came through from seller:


----------



## mikoss

So I'm going to say this isn't a Philips Holland tube... I believe it is a Matsush1ta, tube... and therefore I'd ask him for a refund. (You may also opt to just take the tube... it may very well be a Holland tube, or it may sound just fine, even if it's not a Holland tube).
  
 Couple of reasons/distinct things that I can see, despite the tube being labelled as a "Holland" tube:
  
 - All Philips tubes have four creases along the top. I don't see that.
 - The getter flash (grey/silver stuff near the top) does not look like it was made in Holland... way too much getter flashing there. Holland tubes have a smaller amount, normally. Matsush-ta tubes have that slanted style getter, with a lot more showing.
 - The nipple at the top is long and thin, looks less like a Philips job and more like a Matsu job.
 - Can't see any factory code on the tube, and the pics are kind of tough to zoom in on to see it.
  
 Here are what Matsush1ta tubes look like... to give you an idea: 
 https://goo.gl/xXEVNS
  
 I hope that link works... HF ridiculously censors "sh1t", so Matsush ita doesn't really show very well.


----------



## hdtv00

Refund, there are always plenty of real hollands on ebay some as little as $10 at times.$20 easy.


----------



## mejobloggs

You guys have some serious knowledge stored away in your heads. Thanks, will ask for refund


----------



## Hixs

Hey you guys!!! (browning points for getting the movie reference).
  
 Had my T1 MK2 for over a year now and I'm still running the stock tube. What I'd like is less touch less treble and more bass. Cans are AKG 550. My usage is 80% films 20% music.
  
 Budget 30-40 quid inc shipping to France. I was thinking maybe the Voskhod Rocket?


----------



## manywelps

Quick review of the MK2 (electro-harmonix tube).
  
 So it doesn't hold up to the uberfrost+asgard 2 (which is to be expected, they are $770).  The amp section is not great, running the dac out into the asgard sounds better.
  
 I can hear the tube tonality compared to the bifrost, and it sounds nice on orchestras, but not as much on other things (compared to the bifrost).
  
 It's certainly a good option though, $170 is a bit high, someone would have to run this against the monoprice SS amp or whatnot.  (I got a broken one for free, and RMAed it, which was a PAIN).
  
 This could be tube related though.  (I am not remotely familiar with tubes)
  
 Edit: One other note, the sound is VERY warm.


----------



## ppdv

manywelps said:


> Quick review of the MK2 (electro-harmonix tube).
> 
> So it doesn't hold up to the uberfrost+asgard 2 (which is to be expected, they are $770).  The amp section is not great, running the dac out into the asgard sounds better.
> 
> ...


 

 Hi manywelps,
  
 I have the first version of Aune, and i know that the output state is SS and not a high end one at that. I agree that the Amp signature is quite warm and nice to listen to.
  
 I reckon the best option is to use the Aune as a tube DAC which takes USB input directly from your laptop or tablet and then pass the output to a better Tube Amp like Asgard or BH or some better sounding tube amps.
  
 I plan to buy a tube amp and test this combination out, though that would need some time. for now, i am slowly getting into a bit of tube rolling.
  
 Happy listening with the MK2.


----------



## mejobloggs

mikoss said:


> So I'm going to say this isn't a Philips Holland tube... I believe it is a Matsush1ta, tube... and therefore I'd ask him for a refund.


 
  
 Got my refund.
  
 How about this one? This what I'm looking for? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ECC88-6DJ8-Made-In-Holland-/121714725638?


----------



## HICKFARM

So i am going to dig through this thread, but just wondering if any of these amps i picked up on the cheap are compatible with the Aune T1

 http://imgur.com/a/5Lxoq
  
 I know none of the numbers are in the compatibility list, but just want to make sure.  
  
 The 7308 I know works with the AUNE since I bought it with the DAC.


----------



## mikoss

mejobloggs said:


> Got my refund.
> 
> How about this one? This what I'm looking for? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ECC88-6DJ8-Made-In-Holland-/121714725638?


 
 That is legit - GA3 = 6DJ8, fourth batch. (GA0, GA1, GA2... etc are batch codes)
 delta9J = Holland made, 1959.


----------



## mikoss

hickfarm said:


> So i am going to dig through this thread, but just wondering if any of these amps i picked up on the cheap are compatible with the Aune T1
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/5Lxoq
> 
> I know none of the numbers are in the compatibility list, but just want to make sure.


 
 Nice collection... as you're probably aware, those are actually vacuum tubes, not really "amps".
  
 As for compatibility, I'm not sure myself, but a good spot to start would be searching for the tube datasheet on Google, and then comparing with the 6DJ8 datasheet. You'd want to ensure the pin-outs are the same, and then you'd want to look into the current draw for the heater as well. (I'm not so adventurous myself as to try anything but the tubes on the known compatibility list - here is a link to that post, by @lwrs10)...
  
 The 6--- tubes have 6 volt heaters, so they may work without socket adapters. I wouldn't just plug any in until you go through the datasheets and feel comfortable with trying them though.
  
 edit: *6AQ8* looks to be ok to use.


----------



## HICKFARM

Going to double check, but i think the 6EA8 might work as well.  Believe it just uses more amps.  

 Is there a way to test the tubes without a tube tester?  Just don't want to have any shorts and fry my AUNE.


----------



## mikoss

hickfarm said:


> Going to double check, but i think the 6EA8 might work as well.  Believe it just uses more amps.
> 
> Is there a way to test the tubes without a tube tester?  Just don't want to have any shorts and fry my AUNE.


 
 A tube tester is about the only way to reliably test them.
  
 If you have a multimeter, you could try ohming out the heater, but it will only give you the cold resistance reading... depending on where you live, you may find a classified ad where someone is selling vacuum tubes and you could ask them if they have a tester. (I've done this myself for some of the tubes I bought from eBay).


----------



## HICKFARM

So the 6DJ8 draws 365mA That is verified to work with the Aune  
 http://www.audiomatica.com/tubes/6dj8.htm
  
  
  
 The 6EA8 draws 450mA with all the pins and such appearing to be the same.  
 http://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/093/6/6EA8.pdf
  
 So it seems i should be able to use the 6EA8 in this DAC.  Unless it can't handle the higher amperage.  
 Correct me if I am wrong.  Still new to the whole vacuum tube area.


----------



## mikoss

hickfarm said:


> So the 6DJ8 draws 365mA That is verified to work with the Aune
> http://www.audiomatica.com/tubes/6dj8.htm
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Well, people were using the *6H30Pi* which apparently pulls over 800mA of heater current...


----------



## HICKFARM

So tried the 6EA8 and only my right headphone speaker produced sound and didn't sound great.  Both of the 6EA8 s that i own did this.  The others seem to be TV vacuum tubes, so sadly i didn't find a good one out of the bunch.  The 7308 I already own sounds great.
  

 Might have to turn them into some sweet steampunk projects.


----------



## mejobloggs

Why do people say the amp for Aune T1 isn't so good? Because of how it sounds? Or because it isn't very powerful?
  
 The specs I've seen on the amp looked pretty powerful. 400mw at 120ohms which in my head is rather decent power


----------



## mikoss

It's just a run of the mill op-amp. The sound can be improved by using a different amp, but I do agree that it can sound nice with certain headphones. I use it to drive my HD-650's when I'm away from home half the time and it sounds wonderful. You can certainly get even better sound trying to use the T1 as a DAC, feeding another amp as well.


----------



## jipan

Just want to share a silly story of mine:
  
 For several days I think my Aune T1 died, because when I switch the power, the unit didn't power up. The last time, the electricity down on my block for several hours without explanation. I was thinking the tube died, because of sudden power off. I hadn't time to search for my spare tubes (I was feeling lazy). So for several days, I had to listen to on board soundcard via cheap speaker (gasp!). Today I was feeling little fresh, so I tried to look why the unit didn't power up. Tube.... looks fine. Cable to unit.... tight. Then I trace back the power unit and then I saw that it was unplugged from power plug! How silly oh me... Must be unplug it when I swept the floor last week 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Thank God it still running fine.


----------



## BlaZZen

Hi joeq70,
  
 Firstly I am sorry if my message is not in the right section or I shouldn't be asking questions in this way. I am new to this forum. Your thread really interested me and I can see that you have pretty good knowledge about Hi-Fi in general. I would like to ask you something about Aune T1.
  
 I bought this amazing tube DAC/amplifier about 4 moths ago with Beyerdynamics 990 PRO 250OHM. I use my setup daily for many hours. between 5 - sometimes 10 hours. I listen to the music, games, voice chat (Teamspeak, Skype etc.).
  
 If it comes to the sound I was blown away. But ...
  
 Lately I started to experience problem with the sound. When I start my Aune T1 and the light indicates that uninit is ready, I am getting rattling sound especially if it comes to the bass part of the song and the speech in videos. I have to wait 20 seconds or so until this "broken sounds" go away then everything is back to normal and I am getting normal sound again. I have done some tests and I found out this only happens when unit is cold. When I switch it off and back on in lets say 10 seconds, I am not having this problem. But when I leave it to cool down then I experience this problems.
  
 I checked the cables and tube, everything looks normal as on the beginning. Also temperature of the unit is fine. Slightly warm but that is normal probably due to the tube.
  
 "UPDATE"
 While writing this post, I lost my audio completely. Although I can't see any visible light changes or discoloring in the tube.
  
 Could you please tell me your personal opinion? Or anyone who has experienced similar problems. It is kind of strange because I have had the unit for not so long. Would you advise me to get in touch with the seller or manufacturer? 
  
 Also could you suggest some good websites for a tubes to buy for this little devil please? I am noobie if it comes to advanced Hi-Fi world. That is why I appreciate any tips and tricks from experienced person.
  
 Thanks a lot.


----------



## mikoss

Sounds like your tube is the issue. 

Try the following:
Connect an RCA cable to the input of the T1. 
Flick the switch on the T1 to "Line". 

This will be bypassing the tube and should help you check if that is the issue.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Guys yesterday I heard from a friend that the T1 can use EF92 tubes as well (even though it's not officially supported). Is this true? I'm afraid I'm gonna damage the tubes somehow.


----------



## MadNarc

Hi all,
  
 This may be a silly question, but I've noticed large differences in the sound quality between tracks played through my Aune T1 from my PC and my iPhone. Although using the exact same track in the same format and quality, the results differ substantially (PC sounds better).
  
 I was under the impression the Aune does the converting and amping so technically regardless of source, it should sound the same. Or have I understood wrongly?
  
 I do not have a sound card in my PC by the way, not sure if that's relevant.


----------



## xkonfuzed

madnarc said:


> Hi all,
> 
> This may be a silly question, but I've noticed large differences in the sound quality between tracks played through my Aune T1 from my PC and my iPhone. Although using the exact same track in the same format and quality, the results differ substantially (PC sounds better).
> 
> ...


 
 Actually, it should sound better than your PC's onboard sound. That is strange. Check if you have any software equalizers messing up the sound, turn them off then plug in your T1. That should help fix the problem.


----------



## MadNarc

xkonfuzed said:


> Actually, it should sound better than your PC's onboard sound. That is strange. Check if you have any software equalizers messing up the sound, turn them off then plug in your T1. That should help fix the problem.




I think there may have been some confusion about my question. To clarify, I'm doing a side by side test of:
1) PC -> Aune T1 -> Headphones
2) iPhone -> Aune T1 (through CCK and unpowered usb hub) -> Headphones

And the results are 1 is better than 2, despite using the same tracks in the same formats. There's a marked difference in soundstage and detail.


----------



## BlaZZen

Hi Mikoss,
  
 Yeah it was a tube. I just got a new JJ E88C Gold pin tube. No more issues as I mentioned previously. Also I can see quite a difference in sound (improvement of course  ).
  
 It is strange that my old tube lasted only for so long (around 4 moths). Hope I won't need to change a tube that often.
  
 Thank you for response anyway.


----------



## mikoss

Ahh good to hear you're back in action


----------



## creatip

mejobloggs said:


> Why do people say the amp for Aune T1 isn't so good? Because of how it sounds? Or because it isn't very powerful?
> 
> The specs I've seen on the amp looked pretty powerful. 400mw at 120ohms which in my head is rather decent power


 
  
 Powerful is not the same as good sounding. The T1's headphone amp part is actually a simple CMOY, if I'm not mistaken. It will surely do the job (of amplifying), but yeah, just standard stuff. 
  


madnarc said:


> I think there may have been some confusion about my question. To clarify, I'm doing a side by side test of:
> 1) PC -> Aune T1 -> Headphones
> 2) iPhone -> Aune T1 (through CCK and unpowered usb hub) -> Headphones
> 
> And the results are 1 is better than 2, despite using the same tracks in the same formats. There's a marked difference in soundstage and detail.


 
  
 Strange. Theoretically it should be the same, because the decoding is done by the T1. Only thing I could think of is probably the IOS messes with the digital data before it's being extracted. You using the standard music player? Try a 3rd party app instead. One that I like is the Onkyo HF Player. Free to use for MP3, $10 to upgrade to play flacs and wavs. Or, it could be the other way around, directsound (if using windows) messes with the digital data, making it sound better.
  
 The other thing (a bit far fetched) might be because the USB connection on the CCK doesn't put out enough electricity, so the signal might be jittering. The T1 MK2's asynchronous clock should correct this, but if it's working constantly, that maybe the cause of quality loss. Try a powered USB hub?


----------



## creatip

blazzen said:


> Hi Mikoss,
> 
> Yeah it was a tube. I just got a new JJ E88C Gold pin tube. No more issues as I mentioned previously. Also I can see quite a difference in sound (improvement of course  ).
> 
> ...


 
  
 Tubes are very fragile thing.If you buy used tubes, you don't know how much lifespan they have left. 
  
 Even new tubes are fragile. I had this brand new Genalex Gold Lion. 3 foot drop, and it's wrecked. No glass fractures, no loose connections visible inside, still wrecked....
  
 An ideal tube with ideal usage should last for thousands of working hours.
  
 Which is why everytime I thought of investing $50+ on a tube, this fact held me back, and I'm still sitting here with my $10 Voskhod tube


----------



## hdtv00

Yep I dropped my fav tube from 2 ft and it almost fried my aune t1 when I put it in not realizing it was damaged. Breaks my heart.


----------



## teb1013

creatip said:


> Tubes are very fragile thing.If you buy used tubes, you don't know how much lifespan they have left.
> 
> Even new tubes are fragile. I had this brand new Genalex Gold Lion. 3 foot drop, and it's wrecked. No glass fractures, no loose connections visible inside, still wrecked....
> 
> ...




I spent $50 on my Amperex 7308 (driver quality) and once I realized that I loved it, I have treated it like a baby. Still great in the T1 after over 2yrs, heavy use. Nevertheless I know some day it will go "poof" and the next one might not last. That's the tube game.


----------



## creatip

teb1013 said:


> I spent $50 on my Amperex 7308 (driver quality) and once I realized that I loved it, I have treated it like a baby. Still great in the T1 after over 2yrs, heavy use. Nevertheless I know some day it will go "poof" and the next one might not last. That's the tube game.


 
  
 What I meant was that because the only viable option for me to get tubes is from ebay, there are big risks involved, even before the tube reach my hands.
  
 For starter, the seller might be lying (not scamming) about the tube. For example, he/she posts good measurements of a tube, but send me another tube instead. Without a legit tube tester device, I wouldn't know a damn thing. 
  
 Then there's the issue of packaging and the handling of the package from transit post offices around the world. I bought my Voskhod tube as a pair, from a seller from Ukraine, shipped to Asia. The package seemed good, covered in styrofoam shaped as a tube holder (like a headphone case). One of the tube sounded horrible. Upon closer inspection, the 'nipple' on top were chipped, so that's my best guess as to why it sounded horrible. The other one worked just fine, and that's what I'm using now. Hard to say whose fault was that, the seller, or the post office people handling the package. 
  
 Yea using tube is always a gamble. Unless I can get it at a brick and mortar shop, even better, a shop with a tube tester. Both not really a good option for me, tho....


----------



## mikoss

Yet eBay is 100% on the side of the buyer. You can get a refund even if your purchase is beyond the sellers refund terms. So if you got a chipped nipple on your tube and choose to keep it, why would you complain? I'm just asking... I have found eBay to be quite reliable for tube purchases, and the sellers to be mostly truthful. Why would they lie about tube tests... you can just put in a claim with eBay and return it at the sellers expense, always, regardless of their policy.


----------



## creatip

mikoss said:


> Yet eBay is 100% on the side of the buyer. You can get a refund even if your purchase is beyond the sellers refund terms. So if you got a chipped nipple on your tube and choose to keep it, why would you complain? I'm just asking... I have found eBay to be quite reliable for tube purchases, and the sellers to be mostly truthful. Why would they lie about tube tests... you can just put in a claim with eBay and return it at the sellers expense, always, regardless of their policy.


 
  
 Not complaining about that one particular tube. I deemed that as a realistic and logical risk, that it can be broken along its way half the globe (Ukraine to Asia) and 1,5 month shipping time.
  
 I'm also aware of ebay's protection. I think it was either keep the stuff and get partial refund, or return the stuff and get full refund. Both aren't in my favor tho. The postal condition of my country make things a lot harder to send something anywhere in the world. I learned this when RMA-ing my hifiman to China.
  
 For example, I have to go to the main post office for oversea shipping, branch post offices won't do. There, I gotta wait for the inspection office to inspect the thing I'm sending, got interviewed face to face a bit (what is it, where I'm sending it to, purpose of sending, etc), then wait some more for the actual sending. It takes half a day of office hours just to send a package, excluding the transport time, so it's 1 day absence from work. Not fancy on the cost as well. For example, regular shipment from my country to China (both in Asia) for a 1 kg package (minimum weight) was around $20-$30. I couldn't imagine how much it will cost for a package to Ukraine. So let's say I opted for a full refund. I imagine even if the seller will cover the postal cost, he will do it after he receive the package back. It's 1.5 month shipping there, so I'll get my postal money back 1.5 month later. Then if I opted for a replacement, it's another 1.5 month shipping time. So for a $10 tube, it's too much hassle and cost to try to get a refund. 
  
 I know it's just the way it is. I blame the public post office and its policies. The condition makes it a major headache to deal with oversea warranties and RMAs. I should have been clearer on my previous post, it's not the ebay that's at fault. 
  
 I'm not saying ebay is a bad way for everybody. Just for me and everyone else in my country. For me, buying from ebay (and other oversea online sites, amazon, aliexpress, etc) is always a gamble. If the stuff is good, I win. If the stuff is bad, it's too much hassles and costs to try to get a refund, depending on the stuff, might not be worth it.


----------



## VincentMayer

So was at work the other day and found a box of random tubes in a closet while cleaning it out and thought I saw a bugle boy logo, and I was right, pulled this out of the box.
  

  
 I have found many random tubes at work but this is the first time I have have found one that is the right type, mostly end up with 12ax7 tubes. Anyways, brought this tube home and have been listening to it for a couple days and comparing to my other tubes, (gold lion and orange globe) and I really like the sound. Would like to identify it though and could use some help, tube codes does my head in.
  
 GAA
_Δ5E2_
  
 Pretty sure thats the right code on it, little hard to read.


----------



## rwpritchett

That's a fantastic find. According to the codes, what you've got is an authentic Amperex Bugle Boy made in May 1965 at the Heerlen, Holland factory. A very nice and desirable 6DJ8 tube.


----------



## VincentMayer

rwpritchett said:


> That's a fantastic find. According to the codes, what you've got is an authentic Amperex Bugle Boy made in May 1965 at the Heerlen, Holland factory. A very nice and desirable 6DJ8 tube.


 
 Thank you, the year was what I couldn't figure out, got as far as the Heerlen factory. It sounds great and cant believe how unexpected a find it was.


----------



## JamesBr

rwpritchett said:


> That's a fantastic find. According to the codes, what you've got is an authentic Amperex Bugle Boy made in May 1965 at the Heerlen, Holland factory. A very nice and desirable 6DJ8 tube.


 
  
 1965


----------



## Hixs

Guys,
  
 Having an issue. I'm getting crackling and distortion from the right side of my akg 550s (only ever the right side). It disappears after 5-10mins usually. Is my tube on the way out?? It's over a year old now as I bought my T1 in May/June 2014. Still using stock tube.
  
 Cheers.


----------



## mikoss

Probably the tube. Try using the RCA input on the Aune T1, using another DAC and see if the amp in the T1 is crackling. If not, I would suspect it's the tube.


----------



## penmarker

Happened to mine, probably tube because the distortion goes away after the tube had warmed up.


----------



## Hixs

Ok thanks both. I'll turn it on a half hour before I plan on using it and see if that helps any. I usually just turn it on and press play when the tube lights up, which worked fine up until a week or so ago. Will get a new tube ordered anyway at the weekend. 
  
 If I wanted to increase the bass a touch and drop the treble a touch, what would be the best tube at a reasonable price?
  
 Bugle Boy
 Orange Globe
 Russian Rocket
  
 I know the 7308 is the holy grail when it comes to the T1, but with the cost of the tube and shipping it works out about the same as the unit itself. I'd rather just upgrade at that point.


----------



## creatip

hixs said:


> Ok thanks both. I'll turn it on a half hour before I plan on using it and see if that helps any. I usually just turn it on and press play when the tube lights up, which worked fine up until a week or so ago. Will get a new tube ordered anyway at the weekend.
> 
> If I wanted to increase the bass a touch and drop the treble a touch, what would be the best tube at a reasonable price?
> 
> ...


 
  
 Try the Vokshod or Voskhod. Despite being cheap, it got decent sound. Genalex gold lion also an option if you want fuller mid.


----------



## Hixs

Alright cheers. Happen to know any places that isn't ebay that sells them? I don't trust/like ebay one bit.


----------



## penmarker

In the meantime try wrapping the tube in thick cloth to insulate the heat. It worked for me, and hot 6922 sounds sweeter but since they weren't made to go that hot it might kill the tube faster. Do it when you're very sure you're getting new tubes.


----------



## creatip

hixs said:


> Alright cheers. Happen to know any places that isn't ebay that sells them? I don't trust/like ebay one bit.


 
  
 Genalex is brand new/still in production, so amazon got them. Vokshod is vintage tube, so only tube stores (ebay or else) got them. Try googling for other tube stores.


----------



## 2Dutch

Got my Aune yesterday, and besides the fact that something is rattling inside the adapter (will email the company I ordered them from: seems odd that parts are flying around that enclosure) it looks so well built! Love those flip switches..the volume dial..likin' it!
  
 Got my DT 990 Pro coming in later today, so I only turned it on with some in ears to see if it worked: so cool to see the tube glow..but then that bright as hell led kicked in and I do think it's a bit too much. I was thinking: I've bought these lightdims a while back to dampen the brightness of some of the red leds on my mechanical keyboard. They might be a good way to make that led less bright. Lightdims are very thin plastic films, so I am kinda worried that because the tube gets really hot and the heat radiates downwards as well, they would warp/melt. Any thoughts?
  
 Can't wait to try the DT 990 Pro's with the Aune


----------



## penmarker

No the heat won't be high enough to melt plastic. You can actually touch the tube after its warmed up, though it does get hot enough that you don't wanna touch it too long.


----------



## Emilijus

Hello folks, 
 From time to time I'm hearing some strange feint knocking like sounds from my Aune T1.
 I switched to new stock tube to check if its my current tubes fault, but the porblem remains.
 What could it be? How to fix it?
 Thanks!


----------



## SirMarc

You guys frigging jinxed me, my 7308 just went bad!


----------



## Hixs

Oppps!


----------



## SirMarc

Its weird, the left channel had static and was cutting in and out, so I switched inputs afraid it was my vintage receiver and all other inputs were fine. Popped in my gold lion and it sounded fine. Just for the hell of it I put the 7308 back in and it sounded normal. Very strange. You guys think the tubes on its way out? That would suck, because there's only about 1000 hours on it...


----------



## SirMarc

Before someone asks, I got it from upscale and had it cryo-treated. Figured I was good for up to 10,000 hours...


----------



## xkonfuzed

Thats weird, but I doubt that your tube is going bad. I got mine from UpScale audio cyrogenically-treated as well, and I have used this tube a lot. And I really do mean *a lot*. I use the the T1 everyday and even when I'm not there I keep my headphones playing (somehow it is weirdly satisfying to me). So it gets at least 4 hours of use each day. I haven't experienced any problems with it so far.


----------



## SirMarc

xkonfuzed said:


> Thats weird, but I doubt that your tube is going bad. I got mine from UpScale audio cyrogenically-treated as well, and I have used this tube a lot. And I really do mean *a lot*. I use the the T1 everyday and even when I'm not there I keep my headphones playing (somehow it is weirdly satisfying to me). So it gets at least 4 hours of use each day. I haven't experienced any problems with it so far.



Weird huh? I changed USB cables, RCA jacks and switched inputs on the receiver and it followed the tube. Was fine with the gold lion, and then seemed OK when I popped the 7308 back in. Wonder if it wasn't seated all the way in or something.


----------



## SirMarc

On a side note, for those of you with high impedance cans, if you have a vintage(70's through early 80's) receiver or integrated amp laying around, check out the headphone out with the t1. It can be outstanding. Maybe your parents or grandparents still have one. I have a Kenwood receiver from the late 70's that destroys my Asgard 2 with my hd580s


----------



## ph0n6

Wonder if anyone has try the Schiit new tube with the T1? I'm looking for a new tube since the stock one seems to have gone bad (weird rattling sound in the bass department, let's hope it's the tube issue), and the schiit tube seems to have longer lifespan than the normal tube. How long does normal tube last anw? Mine gone bad after 6 months. (about 4 hour usage per day)


----------



## teb1013

ph0n6 said:


> Wonder if anyone has try the Schiit new tube with the T1? I'm looking for a new tube since the stock one seems to have gone bad (weird rattling sound in the bass department, let's hope it's the tube issue), and the schiit tube seems to have longer lifespan than the normal tube. How long does normal tube last anw? Mine gone bad after 6 months. (about 4 hour usage per day)




I have been using an Amperex 7308 (nos 1968) for at least two years and I hope to get much more out of it. Still sounds great. The problem is you can't tell with tubes, another one might last only a couple of months. As for the Schiit tube, I don't know which one you mean. The Aune T1 uses tubes of the 6922 / 6DJ8 / 7308 / PCC88 family. Many sites like Upscale Audio have much info on tube selection.


----------



## teb1013

sirmarc said:


> You guys frigging jinxed me, my 7308 just went bad!




AARGH, terrible news. I just finished posting how much I enjoy the 7308 but how you can never know how long they'll last. Good luck in getting a good replacement.


----------



## SirMarc

teb1013 said:


> AARGH, terrible news. I just finished posting how much I enjoy the 7308 but how you can never know how long they'll last. Good luck in getting a good replacement.



I bought an extra from upscale last year, so I'm cool. Weird thing is its working fine now. Weird...


----------



## 2Dutch

penmarker said:


> No the heat won't be high enough to melt plastic. You can actually touch the tube after its warmed up, though it does get hot enough that you don't wanna touch it too long.


 
 Thx for the reply. I'll try those lightdims later this week. Might even layer a few on top of each other for some extra dimming...hopefully I'll get a very eyefriendly/pleasing result.
 Gosh I love to see more of that warm orange glow!


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

williamleonhart said:


> Guys yesterday I heard from a friend that the T1 can use EF92 tubes as well (even though it's not officially supported). Is this true? I'm afraid I'm gonna damage the tubes somehow.


Hi, can anyone plz help?


----------



## Chs177

williamleonhart said:


> Hi, can anyone plz help?


 
 EF92 is Vacuum Pentode  tube according to the radiomuseum.org,
 Aune T1 are using double triode tubes.
 So from my point of view I see only one way to use EF92 in the Aune T1 - just put into and don't power on.


----------



## penmarker

Pulled a trigger on this untested Dario Miniwatt E188CC 
  
 http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/1-tube-electronique-MINIWATT-DARIO-ECC189-vintage-valve-tube-amplifier-NOS-/171220389214?hash=item27dd87cd5e
  
 Cheap, but after shipping and conversion its MYR150 in my currency. That's pretty steep, but still cheap for a Miniwatt.


----------



## 2Dutch

penmarker said:


> Pulled a trigger on this untested Dario Miniwatt E188CC
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/1-tube-electronique-MINIWATT-DARIO-ECC189-vintage-valve-tube-amplifier-NOS-/171220389214?hash=item27dd87cd5e
> 
> Cheap, but after shipping and conversion its MYR150 in my currency. That's pretty steep, but still cheap for a Miniwatt.


 

 10 EUR for the tube, 15 EUR to ship it..darn those shipping costs. But indeed, still affordable. Let us know how how it sounds to you when you receive it, enough tube rollers that would love to see yet another review


----------



## penmarker

Pulled the trigger on another Miniwatt, this time it's a Philips Miniwatt E188CC. Tested ok but used.

So I'm going to have a Dario Miniwatt and also a Philips Miniwatt. Hope at least one of them is working. LOL


----------



## 2Dutch

penmarker said:


> Pulled the trigger on another Miniwatt, this time it's a Philips Miniwatt E188CC. Tested ok but used.
> 
> So I'm going to have a Dario Miniwatt and also a Philips Miniwatt. Hope at least one of them is working. LOL


 

 Hehe, hope they will both sound and look fine when you get them!
  
 ---
  
 Put some lightdims (anti glare led stickers) between the pins/on the led. Won't die it down completely because the light also bounces back from below/sides inside the case, but it is very subtle now, and not the "in your face" kinda light anymore, so I am very pleased with it: more tube glow to see. Can't really capture it on cam, you'll have to take my word for it


----------



## penmarker

Here's the Philips Miniwatt, didn't have the chance to check the ebay link since I've been out for the past few days and hours.
  
 http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/330895961622?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  
 Looks ok, but tubes could look flawless but still flawed. I hope the postage in my country don't screw this up.


----------



## penmarker

Goodness what have I done, the tubes are ECC189 not E188CC. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I must've gotten too many tabs open and overlooked.


----------



## mikoss

They're on the compatibility list, apparently they just pull high heater current. You may be ok...


----------



## penmarker

They're compatible, but not what I had wanted. 

Ha, lesson for me then. Lol!


----------



## mikoss

They're a lot cheaper than E188CC's, so maybe they'll be a good deal.


----------



## krelianx

Hey guys, I need a bit of help. I've actually searched on this thread and google, but came up with very diffuse responses and nothing very clear. I am the owner of a Sennheiser hd-600. I was wondering what you guys think the MK1 it pairs up with the hd-600 as an amp-dac combo. I ask because I can get one for quite cheap now, though it's the MK1 model.

 Is it an appropriate set up? What would be good tubes to roll with it? Anything for a similar price that would be preferable? Thanks guys!


----------



## ppdv

krelianx said:


> Hey guys, I need a bit of help. I've actually searched on this thread and google, but came up with very diffuse responses and nothing very clear. I am the owner of a Sennheiser hd-600. I was wondering what you guys think the MK1 it pairs up with the hd-600 as an amp-dac combo. I ask because I can get one for quite cheap now, though it's the MK1 model.
> 
> Is it an appropriate set up? What would be good tubes to roll with it? Anything for a similar price that would be preferable? Thanks guys!


 
  
 Krelianx,
  
 Yes, you can pair the MK1 with your HD600. the only limitation would be that you cant play the High resolution files (192 or 384). Experts can correct me if i am wrong.
  
 I too use the MK1 with HD700 and have the Amperex orange globe, russian voshkod, and also the stock Electro harmonix. What type of tubes is best decided after you list your listening habits.. since some tubes are better for some genres and do not perform at the same level for other genres as well.
  
 I listen mainly to rock, hard rock, metal, progressive, alternate and some world music as well. i find that Russian voshkod does good justice, though i must say that its not beeen too long that i have had these tubes with me.
  
 in short, yes it is a good setup, depending on your source and listening preferences.
  
 Cheers.


----------



## mikoss

Correct, you won't be able to play files greater than 24/96 natively, also including 88.1kHz material. The T1 also will not play DSD files natively, however you can use a player plugin to send them as PCM. 

You can simply use a resampler in your player to send higher resolution files to the DAC at something the T1 will play... Eg 16 bit / 44.1kHz. 

The T1 works very well with HD-650's and HD-600's in my opinion. They have great synergy with tube buffers.


----------



## ppdv

mikoss said:


> Sounds like you would enjoy the Telefunken tubes... they are the quickest sounding tubes to my ears. The NOS Telefunkens are expensive, but JJ is currently making rebranded tubes which are supposed to be decent. I would imagine that they do not compare with the original Telefunkens, but it's worth a shot.
> 
> To give you an idea on cost, here are some links...
> 
> ...


 
 Hi Mikoss,
  
 Finally got the amperex orange globe from chowmein83 and the Russian Voshkods from RB2013.
  
 have listened to them for quite sometime and they sound really good with my HD700. I did like the sound signature of HD700, but i need to listen a lot lot lot more to get fully accustomed with the sound signature.
  
 Cheers,
 happy weekeend


----------



## krelianx

ppdv said:


> Krelianx,
> 
> Yes, you can pair the MK1 with your HD600. the only limitation would be that you cant play the High resolution files (192 or 384). Experts can correct me if i am wrong.
> 
> ...


 


 Thank you for this. My source is the laptop, running Foobar as software, and mostly FLAC and 320kbps...


----------



## teb1013

krelianx said:


> Hey guys, I need a bit of help. I've actually searched on this thread and google, but came up with very diffuse responses and nothing very clear. I am the owner of a Sennheiser hd-600. I was wondering what you guys think the MK1 it pairs up with the hd-600 as an amp-dac combo. I ask because I can get one for quite cheap now, though it's the MK1 model.
> 
> 
> Is it an appropriate set up? What would be good tubes to roll with it? Anything for a similar price that would be preferable? Thanks guys!




I use the T1 MK 1 with HD600s, I play Tidal hi fi, also 320 and FLAC sounds great.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

I'm selling mine as I got an Asgard 2 and the ODAC strikes my interest with the sound I'm going for (bright, with all the detail I can handle), selling for $145 shipped here.


----------



## 2Dutch

A short noob review of the Aune T1 with the EH 6922 tube compared to the Fiio E07K, both with my DT 99'0 pro'saka tube vs regular sound):
 The EH tube is a bit too punchy with the bass and a little too bright for me. Not that it sounds akward or anything, but bass heavy songs are fatigueing for me. I could listen to those songs without fatigue with the E07K. But no worries: I'll go tube hunting (on a budget 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




) and will find the perfect match for my ears. Luckily I also found some Dutch online stores that sell some decent tubes for a reasonable price (ebay is fun, but customs fees and all is such a pain..).
  
 Still love the Aune: something about those switches and the glow of the tube makes me travel back in time a bit


----------



## Chs177

It will be good to try Telefunken ECC88 or ECC86 tube for your setup. I hope you can find it in the Dutch.


----------



## ppdv

2dutch said:


> A short noob review of the Aune T1 with the EH 6922 tube compared to the Fiio E07K, both with my DT 99'0 pro'saka tube vs regular sound):
> The EH tube is a bit too punchy with the bass and a little too bright for me. Not that it sounds akward or anything, but bass heavy songs are fatigueing for me. I could listen to those songs without fatigue with the E07K. But no worries: I'll go tube hunting (on a budget
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Hi 2Dutch,
  
 Mind sharing information of dutch online stores that sell tubes ?
  
 I am also based in netherlands and yes i have to rely on someone travelling from the states to hand carry the tubes for me.
  
 cheers


----------



## 2Dutch

ppdv said:


> Hi 2Dutch,
> 
> Mind sharing information of dutch online stores that sell tubes ?
> 
> ...


 

 Sure! I just bumped into them while searching, but be sure to check for some reviews first, didn't have the time to do some research on all of them yet.
 Not a big collection of Aune T1 compatible tubes, but still worth checking imho:
 http://www.transformatorspecialist.nl/pd-27033-1-9514/product/buizen  --> warning, 12,10 EUR shipping costs, yikez!
 https://www.jukebox-revival.eu/staging/tubes-valves.html > *Ordered a Gold Lion:many shipping options, many payment options, quick reply when contacted*
 http://www.drtube.nl/nl/online-store/buizen/18
 http://www.baco-army-goods.nl/radiobuizen-buisvoeten.html?p=1
 http://triplemaudioshop.nl/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=category&virtuemart_category_id=76&Itemid=151
 http://www.tonefactory.nl/buizen-amp-parts?cat=177
  
 If you do decide to purchase something from one of them, let me and others know how it went?
 I'll do the same of course


----------



## Eurobeat

Hello all!


 I am looking for my first set of gear, and I was recommended this amp for the headphone choices I have picked.

 Here is the thread I posted discussing what kind of sound I like http://www.head-fi.org/t/779971/need-help-finding-a-great-pair-of-headphones-please-details-inside

 and this is the thread I posted asking for amp/dac recommendations http://www.head-fi.org/t/780299/amp-dac-recommendations-for-newbies

 I was told originally to check out the Modi/Magni combo from Schiit, but I heard this is cheaper, and better than that combo ( by some), but I also here that the amp in this unit is not good, and that we should get another amp?  I've also heard the amp is very good, so it's hard to know what's what.

 I've also heard that there is an issue with batches.  One user, in this thread, http://www.head-fi.org/t/722389/aune-t1-mk2-vs-mk1/15  claimed

  


> Aune T1 has very different capacitors in it as stock configuration and some of them are really poor quality ones. Those capacitors in headphone amp circuit and secondary power supply filter stage DO make difference! And quite a lot imho. I have changed and tested many caps on my T1 and stopped on ELNA SilmiII`s + Panasonic FR as main pwr supply caps - just amazing sound they give! Large airy soundstage with better imaging and separation plus harsh highs are gone and everything is just so "smooth and tubey" sounding. I think the difference You hear is due to different capacitors in those units.


 

 So i'm curious if people have actually modded the capacitors on this?


 I'm also curious if there are tubes people would recommend based on genre or sound signature we like?

 It seems the *Amperex 7308 ** Gold Pin *is highly recommended...

 I also see "diamond" pinned Apmerex 7308's (from the link posted in the OP) so would diamond pins be better than gold ones?


 I also want to know what people think about the newer units, as I hear there is a ton of QC issues, and that aune, as a company, is very bad with CS.


 Any advice is appreciated, this looks really cool, but don't want to waste money if it's going to not be worth it in the end....


 Thanks


----------



## mikoss

Oh wow... here is some advice:
  
 #1 - try not to buy any headphones you haven't had a chance to listen to.
  
 #2 - try to at least audition similar headphones to the ones you're eager to buy... if you can't actually audition the ones you plan to buy. For example, if you are thinking of buying the AKG K702 headphones, maybe listen to a pair of AKG open style headphones first. Generally, you can get a feel for the manufacturers sound. Same thing with say Beyer DT880's... say you can't listen to them, try the Beyer T1's, or the Beyer DT990 and see how you like the Beyer sound. 
  
 #3 - there is a big difference generally between open and closed headphones. Try a bunch and see what you prefer. I would recommend only buying open ones if you can wear them in a quiet, secluded location. For example, not on a bus going home from school or work.
  
 #4 - try to buy a pair of headphones that sound good from an amplifier you can afford. Be aware that headphones impedances can make or break how they sound with different gear. For example, dynamic driver headphones with high impedances (eg. HD-600/650) go well with a low or high impedance source, but generally do best with large voltage swings from amplifiers. Headphones with low impedances will generally not sound their best from tube gear... eg. Planar style headphones. These headphones generally do best with large current swings.
  
 From what I quickly read in your headphone thread, you would probably enjoy a planar headphone... they can have a lot of dynamic punch. The older HE series from HiFiMan, or the HE-400S might be found within your budget. I don't know about dynamic headphones because I am tend to like other presentations. I can tell you that AKG's are probably not up your alley, unless you're considering maybe the AKG K550 closed headphones, or perhaps the AKG K7XX. I don't think either are particularly punchy. Sennheiser HD-600/650 would be highly recommended by me for others, but they are also not the most dynamic/punchy sounding headphones.
  
 My advice- wait until you find something you like to get a DAC/amp. I wrote a guide with the help of a lot of people in this thread on replacing the capacitors in the Aune T1, but I wouldn't even worry about that until you have your headphones. The T1 is not the most punchy sounding amp either. You may like something made from FiiO, perhaps.


----------



## Eurobeat

mikoss said:


> Oh wow... here is some advice:
> 
> #1 - try not to buy any headphones you haven't had a chance to listen to.
> 
> ...


 


 Sorry, I kind of messed up and I guess didn't mention that I already am purchasing 2 pairs of headphones.  The Yamaha HPH MT220's and the Pioneer HRM-7's.


 #1  I've been given this advice a lot, but I don't have any place to listen to headphones, so I bought the 2 pairs that were highly recommended to me, and will see how I like them and what I will do after I've decided if I like them or not.


 #2 not sure of similar headphones, but don't think I would find what I'm lookign for either way without tryign to actual model.

 #3  A lot of people have recommended open, but then when it comes to actually recommending a piar, I've been given basically open back choices.


 #4 thanks for the tips.  I'm not sure what the headphones I posted, or the HE-400S's would be good with this amp/dac?


 In the end I'm looking at an Amp/DAC that will work well with both the Yamaha and the Pioneers.

 I was recommended this one from one person who had recommended both the Yamahas and the Pioneers (not the only advice I'm taking, but he seems to know what he's talking about for the most part).

 Do you think this wouldn't be the amp/dac I'm looking for, since you mention "punchy?"  Would it be good to get an additional amp, with this one?

 The user had mentioned that he believed the amp was really good, and better than a lot of others, but a lot of other people mention the amp sucks, but I've heard the MK2 has a better amp than the MK1, but also heard that to be false.....


 Maybe it is the capacitors like claimed?  You'll have to link me your guide, I guess it's worth it to change them?

 I also was told that the amp also takes advantage of the tube, even though it's a Tube DAC?  The first post mentioned it's not a tube amp, but mentioned something about the "amp taking advantage of the tube" but was extremely vague on it.

 Thanks for the tips, hopefully I can find the best setup for myself .

 Still not 100% sold on the headphones, but haven't really gotten many other options


----------



## Eurobeat

By the way..  I noptice there are 2 listings.  One is 24/192 and the other is 24/96.  There is really only 24/96, from what I saw earlier in this thread, right?  Just a mistake and it's all the same?

 The Us "official" distributor is selling them for 160, while everyone else is selling them for 200$+....  I would assume it's safe to buy it from the official dealer?  They mention it on The description, and I checked them out on Aune's site and it's legit, but that's a nice price difference.  If no one thinks there's something sketchy about that.... I'm going to grab one .  I did hear that there were quality control issues with later models, but I'm not sure if anyone can verify if that's still the case currently?  I think it would be good to buy from this earth audio or w/e since they are the official distributor, and if something goes wrong they should fix it... They also have 100% feedback .

 Can anyone help me with Tube recommendations?

 Thanks all 


 EDIT:  SCHIIT.....  I accidentally placed an order for one LOL....  I cancelled it though, as I'm not 100% sure .  Maybe it's a sign I should have just bought it...  More discussion tomorrow then we decide .

 I'm going to grab my headphones now though.


 EDIT2:  Bought the headphones )))))))))))))))))))))))))))

 I also hope the price doesn't go up from 160 when I decide I'm ready LOL.

 I'm not sure if I should just buy this straight up, or wait to listen to the headphones first idk....

 this seems to be the best choice for me so I should probably just buy it but... Idk..

 Figure I should read some more in this thread and talk to peeps more...


----------



## ppdv

2dutch said:


> Sure! I just bumped into them while searching, but be sure to check for some reviews first, didn't have the time to do some research on all of them yet.
> Not a big collection of Aune T1 compatible tubes, but still worth checking imho:
> http://www.transformatorspecialist.nl/pd-27033-1-9514/product/buizen  --> warning, 12,10 EUR shipping costs, yikez!
> https://www.jukebox-revival.eu/staging/tubes-valves.html > *Ordered a Gold Lion:many shipping options, many payment options, quickley replied when contacted*
> ...


 
 Hi 2Dutch,
  
 Thanks for the links. Appreciate it.
 Strange that whenever i search for it, I never , even for once, happened to bump into any one of these links.....
  
 I will let you know as and when i buy any tube, but probably nothing for now.. i might consider Telefunken 6dj8 probably. (NOS or NEW).
  
 cheers,
 Prashant


----------



## 2Dutch

ppdv said:


> Hi 2Dutch,
> 
> Thanks for the links. Appreciate it.
> Strange that whenever i search for it, I never , even for once, happened to bump into any one of these links.....
> ...


 

 No problem, hope there's a shop that has the tube you want. I'll receive the Golden Lion in a day or 2 I hope.. Kiala/UPS service point is a handy option for us Dutch folks. Will go for ebay to try out some simple, cheap tubes that won't come from overseas (as in oceans..). But don't forget about Marktplaats: saw a Telefunken and some Philips tubes on there as well..


----------



## ppdv

2dutch said:


> No problem, hope there's a shop that has the tube you want. I'll receive the Golden Lion in a day or 2 I hope.. Kiala/UPS service point is a handy option for us Dutch folks. Will go for ebay to try out some simple, cheap tubes that won't come from overseas (as in oceans..). But don't forget about Marktplaats: saw a Telefunken and some Philips tubes on there as well..


 
 Yes, i do keep a tab on marktplaats as well, but everytime someone says that an X item is available, when i go and check out on it i rarely get to see it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 probably i am bad at searching through communities, dunno....
  
 I already got my Orange globe and Voshkod from the US since i knew a colleague of mine who was travelling for a week to the US. I got it pre-delivered to my other colleagues who are permanently based out of that location. It sometimes is good to have colleagues who keep travelling back and forth 
  
 anyway, keep us informed about your tubes.


----------



## Eurobeat

How are you guys liking the Aune?  It seems that al ot of people love going tube hunting .



 Still on the fence about buying one, event hough I almost did have one last night ?


----------



## ppdv

eurobeat said:


> How are you guys liking the Aune?  It seems that al ot of people love going tube hunting .
> 
> 
> 
> Still on the fence about buying one, event hough I almost did have one last night ?


 
 I love the way Aune T1 makes a difference to the clarity of the songs that i listen through it. Have started hearing a lot more details than i used to hear it in the songs i have listened to for many years. It may be placebo effect, but i am hearing it.. so that matters quite a lot.
  
 The AMP part, as has been discussed in great detail, is not really the highest end category and is just average. What i have seen and what i intend to do is to use the tube buffer output as in input to a more powerful and better tube headphone amp. I've been eyeing on the BH Crack or any of the SCHIIT products. I have not pulled the trigger so far but eventually will do so. reason being i am tied up quite badly with work and barely get time to listen to songs at leisure at home as well (especially with my tiny toddler asking for attention which is more hard to resist 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 )..  but some day..!
  
 I guess if you are on the roll for a change, go ahead it wont dissappoint you and also it doesn't make a big hole in your wallet either.


----------



## mikoss

eurobeat said:


> Sorry, I kind of messed up and I guess didn't mention that I already am purchasing 2 pairs of headphones.  The Yamaha HPH MT220's and the Pioneer HRM-7's.
> 
> 
> #3  A lot of people have recommended open, but then when it comes to actually recommending a piar, I've been given basically open back choices.
> ...


 
  
 So both headphones you are considering are low impedance, which means they may not sound their best driven from a higher impedance amplifier, such as tube gear. Having said that, it's not like they would automatically sound "bad" - you just may find that they sound "better" with a lower impedance source.
 Here are the specs for both headphones: Yamaha is 37 ohms http://usa.yamaha.com/products/music-production/accessories/headphones/hph-mt220_w/
 Pioneer is 45 ohms https://www.pioneerdj.com/en/product/headphones/hrm-7/black/specifications
  
 I haven't heard these headphones, so I honestly couldn't answer how the T1 would handle dynamics with these headphones. I will say that the amplifier in the T1 is very simple/cheap, and does not offer the same dynamics that you may find in more expensive, or sophisticated amplifier circuits. The amplifier in the Mark 1 and Mark 2 is the same. There is no difference between the amplifiers in either T1 model. The difference between mk 1 and mk2 is the USB receiever, in that mk2 is an asynchronous USB connection, which normally results in lower jitter. Lower jitter often results in less distortion, and a higher noise floor, which may translate into a better sound. It may also be a very subtle difference, depending on the listener.
  
 Changing the capacitors will result in a slightly more dynamic sound. For the most part, the power capacitors are the ones which help the most. I heard a more defined body, deeper bass, and slightly better dynamic range. (The Panasonic FR capacitors).
  
 The tube is in the DAC section only, however it will change the sound going into the amplifier, if you are using the USB DAC input on the T1. The amplifier itself is a simple op-amp, and does not use any tubes. A tube amplifier is completely different than the tube buffer that is in the T1. The tube "completely" changes the sound of the T1, but only when you are using the USB DAC of the T1. The tube is NOT in the amplifier section... it is a tube buffered DAC.
  
 Hope this helps.


----------



## krelianx

Can anyone give me advise for tubes that pair well with the hd-600 and/or the Fidelio X1?


----------



## Eurobeat

ppdv said:


> I love the way Aune T1 makes a difference to the clarity of the songs that i listen through it. Have started hearing a lot more details than i used to hear it in the songs i have listened to for many years. It may be placebo effect, but i am hearing it.. so that matters quite a lot.
> 
> The AMP part, as has been discussed in great detail, is not really the highest end category and is just average. What i have seen and what i intend to do is to use the tube buffer output as in input to a more powerful and better tube headphone amp. I've been eyeing on the BH Crack or any of the SCHIIT products. I have not pulled the trigger so far but eventually will do so. reason being i am tied up quite badly with work and barely get time to listen to songs at leisure at home as well (especially with my tiny toddler asking for attention which is more hard to resist
> 
> ...


 
  
 Thanks for the info.  I hear this makes thing sound great, especially with better tubes ))


  


mikoss said:


> So both headphones you are considering are low impedance, which means they may not sound their best driven from a higher impedance amplifier, such as tube gear. Having said that, it's not like they would automatically sound "bad" - you just may find that they sound "better" with a lower impedance source.
> Here are the specs for both headphones: Yamaha is 37 ohms http://usa.yamaha.com/products/music-production/accessories/headphones/hph-mt220_w/
> Pioneer is 45 ohms https://www.pioneerdj.com/en/product/headphones/hrm-7/black/specifications


 

 Thanks for the information, I am extremely new to this all, so I just going off of recommendations.

 http://www.head-fi.org/t/780299/amp-dac-recommendations-for-my-headphone-choices-new-to-amps-dacs

 I made this thread and I got recommended this amp by @inthere he also recommended both of the headphone choices.  I ended up not getting the Yamahas, because I couldn't find a reliable return policy, in case I disliked them.

 I have been recommended a Grado 325e so I might rent that from "TheCableCo" to test it out and see if it's for me .  How does that rank in "impedance?"





  


> I haven't heard these headphones, so I honestly couldn't answer how the T1 would handle dynamics with these headphones. I will say that the amplifier in the T1 is very simple/cheap, and does not offer the same dynamics that you may find in more expensive, or sophisticated amplifier circuits. The amplifier in the Mark 1 and Mark 2 is the same. There is no difference between the amplifiers in either T1 model. The difference between mk 1 and mk2 is the USB receiever, in that mk2 is an asynchronous USB connection, which normally results in lower jitter. Lower jitter often results in less distortion, and a higher noise floor, which may translate into a better sound. It may also be a very subtle difference, depending on the listener.


 
 I'm just going off of what @inthere says but I am definitely interested in something that you think would be "Better" for these Pioneer headphones?

 You can also read @inthere's comments about this amp and how he says it likes it better than the magni/asgard??

 I'm not sure how others like the amp, but he's really loving it.

 Thanks for the info on it all, though.

 Quote: 





> Changing the capacitors will result in a slightly more dynamic sound. For the most part, the power capacitors are the ones which help the most. I heard a more defined body, deeper bass, and slightly better dynamic range. (The Panasonic FR capacitors).


 

 It seems like some people reported a big difference, but who knows.  One user recommended me a guide, but I never got the link so...  It should be on one of the last few pages that he mentioned it.

 It seems like, from what you're saying is that there was a decent improvement .

 Quote: 





> The tube is in the DAC section only, however it will change the sound going into the amplifier, if you are using the USB DAC input on the T1. The amplifier itself is a simple op-amp, and does not use any tubes. A tube amplifier is completely different than the tube buffer that is in the T1. The tube "completely" changes the sound of the T1, but only when you are using the USB DAC of the T1. The tube is NOT in the amplifier section... it is a tube buffered DAC.
> 
> Hope this helps.


 

 So how much does each part matter in a setup?  It seems this Tube DAC really makes a difference, from your comments "the tube completely changes the sound of the T1."  So I'm assuming the DAC is a drastic change.  How much does an amp matter then???

 All of this is new to me, so I'm really not sure what to do .

 Thanks


----------



## ppdv

eurobeat said:


> Thanks for the info.  I hear this makes thing sound great, especially with better tubes ))
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Eurobeat,
  
 Since you are new into the world of unlimited possibilities, would suggest that you start off with something minimal 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, keep trading in stuff or try listening to other fellow member's setup in your neighborhood (if any).
  
  if you buy a lot of items just going by reviews, sooner we might see most of those items in the Classified Section 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 if you do not happen to like it. the only recommended way with this hobby/passion is to listen listen listen ( try friends, stores where audition is possible, as mentioned : fellow neighborhood members ).  Nothing to discourage you, just my simple view...
  
 Take your time, it is well worth the wait if you can get something you really can enjoy for hours and years together until ugraditis hits you again  
  
  
 cheers,
 Prashant


----------



## JamesBr

krelianx said:


> Can anyone give me advise for tubes that pair well with the hd-600 and/or the Fidelio X1?


 
  
 Depending on your budget, I would say the bottlehead Crack


----------



## Eurobeat

ppdv said:


> Eurobeat,
> 
> Since you are new into the world of unlimited possibilities, would suggest that you start off with something minimal
> 
> ...


 


 I bought a pair, and am going to try that out, and go from there.


 I just need an amp/dac combo recommendation.

@inthere swears by this but it seems it's a higher impedance amp?  I would assume for the price it would be lower, but not sure if impedance correlates to price i.e., lower-lower and higher-higher.


----------



## kousik1946

I have an interesting observation with my T1 MK2. I am using sennheiser HD558 with impedance 50 ohm. I am using philips mullard SQ tube with it. So first I thought it is better to use the headphone without any gain. The sound was very good and warm. But recently I switched on 10db gain and sound is now more open and better sounding. Of course I had to decrease the volume a little bit to match the sound. I don't know it's supposed to be or just my imagination. I think I am enjoying more with my T1.


----------



## Eurobeat

Sop I got the pioneer headphones today, will try them out shortly, but didn't get a message back from @mikoss about high and low impedance.


 This dac seems relly cool, and it seems like Tubes kick ass, but are there other Tube DACS that are good?  Would it be best to work with a tube amp?


 Thanks all


----------



## kousik1946

Little dot I is also good


----------



## Eurobeat

kousik1946 said:


> Little dot I is also good


 


 Thanks.  Someone mentioned that apparently there is a jumper switch that you can chance the impedance of the Aune with?

 Sounds like one of the little covers you put over switches, like on a motherboard for a computer.

 If so then this seems to be what Iwant to get


----------



## mikoss

Eurobeat - here is more info on impedances between headphones and amps. The output impedance of the Aune T1 is 10 ohms, and this isn't adjustable. The dip switches you might be thinking of are on the bottom of the Aune T1, and used to set the gain level of the amplifier. (This will change the volume level... the higher the gain, the higher the volume).
  
 Also, impedances really don't correlate with cost. Consumer grade headphones are mostly low impedance simply because it's easier to drive them using a source like a phone, or laptop. Higher end headphones can be low or high impedance, depending on their design. The high impedance headphones typically require more voltage to sound good, whereas the lower impedance headphones can also be quite tough to properly drive as well... they work well with high current designs. 
  
 http://nwavguy.blogspot.ca/2011/02/headphone-amp-impedance.html
  
 Hope that helps.


----------



## Eurobeat

mikoss said:


> Eurobeat - here is more info on impedances between headphones and amps. The output impedance of the Aune T1 is 10 ohms, and this isn't adjustable. The dip switches you might be thinking of are on the bottom of the Aune T1, and used to set the gain level of the amplifier. (This will change the volume level... the higher the gain, the higher the volume).
> 
> Also, impedances really don't correlate with cost. Consumer grade headphones are mostly low impedance simply because it's easier to drive them using a source like a phone, or laptop. Higher end headphones can be low or high impedance, depending on their design. The high impedance headphones typically require more voltage to sound good, whereas the lower impedance headphones can also be quite tough to properly drive as well... they work well with high current designs.
> 
> ...


 


 Thanks, yeah they are gain switches, not too sure why he was talking about impedance with them.  Maybe he knows somethign we don't .

 Anyways, havent' taken the headphones out (yet), but curious if you think this will still be a good buy?  SOmeone also mentioned the little dot I, but not sure how it compares to this.

 Thanks all.


----------



## face2k

Can I use the Aune T1 as a preamp and volume control to my power amp for my speakers?


----------



## rwpritchett

The pre-out RCA jacks on the Aune T1 are fixed volume. You will need to control volume some other way.


----------



## penmarker

face2k said:


> Can I use the Aune T1 as a preamp and volume control to my power amp for my speakers?


The line out for the T1 is fixed, so if you do use it as a preamp, you'll have to control the volume using your computer or you source. 

However, I don't think it would be optimal as the volume would be max from the line out.


----------



## penmarker

Received both the Dario Miniwatt ECC189 and Philips Miniwatt ECC189. The Philips sound better than the stock 6922 and Dario, so I decided to sell the other two.
  
 I wonder how good the Dario Miniwatt E188CC really is.


----------



## 2Dutch

penmarker said:


> Received both the Dario Miniwatt ECC189 and Philips Miniwatt ECC189. The Philips sound better than the stock 6922 and Dario, so I decided to sell the other two.
> 
> I wonder how good the Dario Miniwatt E188CC really is.


 

 I saw a few Philips Miniwatt E88CC for sale (second hand): I am very curious about those... But I am still waiting for my HD 600's so I haven't even tested my brand new Golden Lion yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Could you tell us what you liked about the Philips so much / was not so good about the Dario?


----------



## penmarker

To me the Philips are like the Electro Harmonix taken to a new level. The focus is better, vocals sounded a lot more center instead of a little smeared between the left and right headphones. It sounds smoother. Bass tightened up noticeably, but I'm not sure whether they're more pronounced or not because I don't notice that. Of course this is more of an exaggeration, improvement is marginal but noticeable. Maybe to others it could be night and day because I'm not sensitive to minor changes.
  
 The Dario on the other hand is aggressive, and I'm not sure why but some guitar notes sound very annoying and is very noticeable in Robin William's Something Stupid. Other than that I can't really put my finger on why it isn't better than the Electro Harmonix. Its just not musical, one step down compared to the Electro Harmonix. Its a tube I cannot enjoy.


----------



## mikoss

What is the date/factory code of the Dario? Did you have some pics?


----------



## penmarker

I think they're made in the 70's. found a website about them. http://www.nostubestore.com/2011/12/miniwatt-dario-ecc189-holland.html


----------



## mikoss

Sorry, can't read the codes from those pictures... can you read them from the side of the tube? They seem to be etched on the side opposite of the big yellow Dario stamp.


----------



## penmarker

From what I can see, it's sort of like

X6
I4BI


----------



## mikoss

Perfect, that would be:
  
 delta4B1
  
 Made by Philips in Heerlen, Holland, in 1964 or 1974. 
  
 I was mostly wondering since it was a Dario whether it was French made, or Dutch. I'm surprised it doesn't sound as nice as other Dutch tubes... perhaps because it is a different tube type. It's definitely made by Philips, in the same factory as the famous Miniwatt E88CC and E188CC's. Should have a nice, linear warmth if it is anything like the other tubes. Not sure how ECC189's differ from ECC88's though.


----------



## penmarker

Perhaps it needs some burning in? Or Maybe the terminals are a little dirty. I can hear distortions in the upper treble, especially the sound guitars make when the strings vibrating against the frets. 

It was bought untested and honestly not sure if it's NOS or used.


----------



## mikoss

Distortion can be a sign that the tube type is not 100% compatible with the gear... I would have to compare the datasheets and see how ECC189 differs from ECC88.
  
 I also noticed a very small amount of distortion when I ran PCC88/7DJ8 tubes in the Aune T1. It was exactly how you mentioned- with guitar and strings that I could hear it. They sounded just a bit fuzzy, and it annoyed me quite a bit. 
  
 ECC189 info: http://www.duncanamps.com/tdsl/show.php?des=ECC189
  
 ECC88 info: http://www.duncanamps.com/tdsl/show.php?des=ECC88
  
 Looking at the sheets, I'm not very well versed in comparing tubes, but I do notice that the mu is different... 6DJ8 is 33 and ECC189 is 65. I believe this has to do with the voltage gain/amplification.


----------



## Eurobeat

mikoss said:


> So both headphones you are considering are low impedance, which means they may not sound their best driven from a higher impedance amplifier, such as tube gear. Having said that, it's not like they would automatically sound "bad" - you just may find that they sound "better" with a lower impedance source.
> Here are the specs for both headphones: Yamaha is 37 ohms http://usa.yamaha.com/products/music-production/accessories/headphones/hph-mt220_w/
> Pioneer is 45 ohms https://www.pioneerdj.com/en/product/headphones/hrm-7/black/specifications


 

 Just wanted to let you know that on Amazon, for the Aune, it says this "Suitable headphone Impedance: 30ohm~600ohm"

 I think I'm going to buy it and check it out!

 Does anyone have a nice amp they recommend to go with this?  Tube amp I'm assuming?

 I think I first should find a nice tube or 3, for my likes, and see how they are.

 I need something that is going to bring some energy to these headphones.


----------



## penmarker

eurobeat said:


> Just wanted to let you know that on Amazon, for the Aune, it says this "Suitable headphone Impedance: 30ohm~600ohm"
> 
> I think I'm going to buy it and check it out!
> 
> ...


 
 Hey Mikoss and Eurobeat.
  
 This amp is actually a tube buffered DAC with solid state amp. The tube "amp is better for higher impedance headphones" is generally only applied to high voltage output transformer-less amps (OTL) like the Bottlehead Crack, Project Ember, La Figaro 339, and the likes.
  
 Aune T1 however is not one of those high output voltage tube amp, it only has a tube buffered DAC stage. The amp itself is only a cheap solid state stage.


----------



## mikoss

Yeah I've mentioned it being a tube buffered DAC with a cheap solid state amp before. 

The T1's output impedance however is around 10 ohms... I wouldn't use it with low impedance cans, but that is just me. 80 ohm+ headphones, or possibly low Z planars, but I've tried it with planars and found it didn't sound great.


----------



## penmarker

I think it's probably because the amp is cheap, not the output impedance. From what I understand, the impedance matching is just a rule of thumb. I've personally paired it with an S500 and VSD3S, both low impedance headphones and IEMs. They sound ok. Amping a $1000 Audeze with an $8 amp probably won't sound good even if the output impedance is <1 ohm. I could be wrong though.


----------



## mikoss

They can sound ok, I agree. As far as quality and money goes, the sub $200 O2 amp does a fine job driving (IMO overpriced) Audeze headphones. I own the LCD-3F's. The O2 drives them subjectively better than the Woo WA2. The T1 does a baaaad job. The volume has to be cranked to the point of distortion. My opinion.


----------



## penmarker

I'd wanna get my hands on a pair of LCD3. Tested them once from a TOTL Audio GD amp, sounds real great. I don't know what model though. I do agree, they do get driven better through an O2 instead of the T1. The O2 is a really fine low budget amp, a lot of HD650 owners started out with them and still drive them with the O2.


----------



## teb1013

I have been using my Aune T1 for a couple of years now. For the past 6 months I have paired it with Sennheiser HD600s and it sounds fantastic with real impact and presence that my HD558s couldn't approach. I have noted all of the comments that describe the T1s SS amp as basic. What improvement could I expect with the T1 dac and another amp? Would an inexpensive amp like a Little Dot 1+ or a Schiit Valli ( or even an SS like a Magni2) make a noticeable difference? I'm currently pretty locked in with the HD600s so I would need a major improvement with those headphones to warrant an external amp.


----------



## mikoss

Teb - personally driving the 650's with the T1 for a couple of years, then moving to a ToTL setup of the Multibit Gungnir feeding the Eddie Current Zana Deux, I personally feel that the Aune T1 can get me 60-70% of the way. 

With the very best tubes in the T1, I hear a very musical sounding response. An external amp offers better overall clarity, deeper and tighter bass, and improved dynamics. The T1 can sound very good, especially with HD-600/650's, and I don't think it's necessary to invest a lot more money personally.


----------



## Eurobeat

Thanks for the tips.  I'm just not sure if this would work well with the HPs I'm looking at.  The Pios are very bright, as are apparently the Yamahas, so that isn't good for me, and I dislike how harsh the Pios are sometimes.,  I'm not sure if this will change anythign with that, it seems Tubes can change how the south is, but not sure enough to make it "less harsh."  It seems I could also EQ this, but I also notice that it seeems there is "something missing" from these headphones to sound "AMAZING."

 Sad...

 Since I'm returning the Pios, and possibly before I get a chance to try the Aune, I don't know what other HPs I should try out that would pair well with the Aune.


----------



## teb1013

Thanks Mikoss, I am most pleased with the Amperex 7308. I think I'll keep going with my current set up at this point.


----------



## SirMarc

teb1013 said:


> Thanks Mikoss, I am most pleased with the Amperex 7308. I think I'll keep going with my current set up at this point.



I also use a 7308 and hd580's(essentially the same as 600's), and noticed a pretty serious upgrade with an Asgard 2, and an even bigger upgrade using a vintage Sansui 9090 receiver. There's a giant thread on vintage equipment as a headphone amp on this site. Check it out


----------



## ph0n6

Currently feeding my Sonorous VI to the T1 (mk.I) with 7308 and Rendition protable amp, boy does it sounds great


----------



## sonickarma

Any recomendations for the most analogue warmest tubes for iems, thanks a lot of pages to digest


----------



## mikoss

sonickarma said:


> Any recomendations for the most analogue warmest tubes for iems, thanks a lot of pages to digest


 
 Amperex Orange Globes are pretty good for not too much $


----------



## sonickarma

mikoss said:


> Amperex Orange Globes are pretty good for not too much $




Thanks will try and get these and also gold lion and mullards

Cheers


----------



## Eurobeat

Does anyone know if the "official distributor"  "Earth Sound Co" will accept returns on an Aune?  I want to get this, but don't want to be SOL on a return.  They are cheaper on Amazon, from them, than others/prime, so I wanted to get it through them, besides them being the offiical distributor in the USA.

 I sent them an email about a week ago, and haven't gotten anything back yet...  That doesn't sound good to me, but wanted to know if anyone has ever returned one?

 Probably wont need to, judging from all the likes here.


 Still not sure what I want to do....

 Buy the aune, maybe a small tube amp also?  Still need to find another pair of headphones


----------



## 2Dutch

Decided to try the Golden Lion tube and see if I could hear any difference 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 Should have written down how some songs sounded on the stock tubes for better comparison, but hey: swapping tubes only takes a minute.
 Note: noob at this so I had to look up some terms..hehe.
 First impression: more (layers of) bass, more "clarity", bit more detail and more soundstage.
 The tube was affordable (around €33 or 37 dollars) and available via a Dutch online store, so that was a plus. Don't mind eBay, but sometimes international mail can be a real pain.


----------



## UntilThen

Glad to see the Aune T1 still getting so much love. This dac/amp and the o2+odac are incredibly good value for the price. I have both and use it as DAC alternatively with an external amp Darkvoice 336se with my HD650. I think this combination is really musical and enjoyable for not too much money spent.
  
 Upgrade fever strikes. I'm about to get another tube amp call the Elise by Feliks Audio next month. This should be a big improvement over the Darkvoice 336se. At the same time I'm getting a free NAD D10150 dac/amp which I plan to use as a DAC with this new amp. I hope to be able to share how the Aune T1 compares with the NAD D1050 in due course.
  
 I also bought a pair of 6N23P Russian Rocket logo 1975 and I really love it with the Aune T1. Because I have quite a lot of 6SN7 tubes from the Darkvoice, I bought a 6SN7 to 6922 adapter to use my 6SN7 tubes in the Aune T1.


----------



## penmarker

Seeing how the tube is only a buffer for the analogue stage, have you guys ever wondered what's the actual output quality of the DAC? I see a lot of you guys pair them with hi fi amps like the BH Crack, how would the pure DAC output sound like without the tube buffer?


----------



## mikoss

Penmarker - if you're interested in hearing the same DAC chip made by the same company, try the Aune X1. I thought it was alright when I heard it last year, but preferred the T1 because of what the tube brings out. 

I will say I think a good cheap DAC for a detailed sound is the Schiit Modi2 fed from the Wyrd. My ultimate favorite DACs are the Multibit offerings from Schiit though. The MB Gungnir and Yggdrasil are superb.


----------



## 2Dutch

untilthen said:


> I also bought a pair of 6N23P Russian Rocket logo 1975 and I really love it with the Aune T1. Because I have quite a lot of 6SN7 tubes from the Darkvoice, I bought a 6SN7 to 6922 adapter to use my 6SN7 tubes in the Aune T1.


 
 Went browsing for 6N23P's on eBay a while back because I heard so many good things about them:  found 2 tubes from 1978 for 28 dollars, and a single tube from 1975 for 35 dollars. The 1975 must sound a lot better judging from the price 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I am very curious about the sound..but unfortunately the country they are shipped from (Ukraine) is not an EU-member, so customs fees will be applied above a certain amount. That makes them unattractive to buy at this time... Maybe I'll find a single 1978 tube for a nice price in a bit. Patience..
  
 The very affordable ones are from the eighties, and those are mediocre/not that special I've been told. Maybe I'll try those anyway, can't hurt to try right


----------



## UntilThen

penmarker said:


> Seeing how the tube is only a buffer for the analogue stage, have you guys ever wondered what's the actual output quality of the DAC? I see a lot of you guys pair them with hi fi amps like the BH Crack, how would the pure DAC output sound like without the tube buffer?


 

 It didn't sound too bad into the Darkvoice 336se but I've since switch to my o2+odac for dac duties. And again that will be replaced by the NAD D1050 soon and I'm changing tube amp. Aune T1 with HD650 sounded pretty good to me but HD650 sounded better with my Darkvoice.


----------



## UntilThen

2dutch said:


> Went browsing for 6N23P's on eBay a while back because I heard so many good things about them:  found 2 tubes from 1978 for 28 dollars, and a single tube from 1975 for 35 dollars. The 1975 must sound a lot better judging from the price
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 There's a review of the 6N23P here in this thread but I cannot remember the page. I bought the 75 after reading that review and I must say they sounded excellent on the Aune T1 as well as a driver with adapter on my Darkvoice 336se. That review thinks the 80s were unremarkable but your mileage may vary. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I paid $33 plus $8 shipping for the pair.


----------



## Chs177

2dutch said:


> Went browsing for 6N23P's on eBay a while back because I heard so many good things about them:  found 2 tubes from 1978 for 28 dollars, and a single tube from 1975 for 35 dollars. The 1975 must sound a lot better judging from the price
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

 I have several 6N23P in my collection (including 75 "rocket" SWGP). I didn't like how its sounds in Aune. So my advice to look at European tubes - Siemens, Telefunken, Mullard.


----------



## 2Dutch

chs177 said:


> I have several 6N23P in my collection (including 75 "rocket" SWGP). I didn't like how its sounds in Aune. So my advice to look at European tubes - Siemens, Telefunken, Mullard.


 
 Funny how everyone has different opinions on tubes, hehe. EU tubes are easy to find here, but are mostly far from cheap..however: they are also easy to get a hold of on the second hand market..hmmm...might be worth a shot.


----------



## Chs177

2dutch said:


> Funny how everyone has different opinions on tubes, hehe. EU tubes are easy to find here, but are mostly far from cheap..however: they are also easy to get a hold of on the second hand market..hmmm...might be worth a shot.


 
 What is cheap?
 One link from my bookmarks:
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/310087990709?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## 2Dutch

chs177 said:


> What is cheap?
> One link from my bookmarks:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/310087990709?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


 
 that's around 22 euro (inc. shipping): very affordable, around 22,50 in Dutch online stores (without shipping).
 Never heard of the brand though, but that doesn't mean much 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 A lot of Telefunken/Siemens tubes are  much sought after and are often 50+ euro or more, I think that's a bit too much for "just tube rolling fun" if you know what I mean 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The golden lion I got sounds nice and was around 30 euro, about the max I want to spend on a tube.


----------



## UntilThen

chs177 said:


> What is cheap?
> One link from my bookmarks:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/310087990709?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


 

 Holy s*** I might grab that Brimar myself. 2Dutch that is an excellent brand. I am rolling 6AS7 and 6SN7 tubes and if it is Brimar I would be smiling.


----------



## 2Dutch

untilthen said:


> Holy s*** I might grab that Brimar myself. 2Dutch that is an excellent brand. I am rolling 6AS7 and 6SN7 tubes and if it is Brimar I would be smiling.


 
 Go for it! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Another day, another bit of knowledge aquired: I'm putting that tube on my "must try them out" list. Will get back to you lads when it finds it's way here in the future+a small noobish review to boot


----------



## Chs177

untilthen said:


> Holy s*** I might grab that Brimar myself. 2Dutch that is an excellent brand. I am rolling 6AS7 and 6SN7 tubes and if it is Brimar I would be smiling.


 

 Please be careful - it;s foreign made Brimar but it's sounds very good. I prefer that tube to another Brimars that I have,


----------



## UntilThen

I see. I wonder whether Brimar has been sold just as Tung Sol was sold to the Russian Sensor. The Tung Sol reissue is quite good too.


----------



## manywelps

And the power switch stopped working again...
  
 Not impressed.
  
 Is there somewhere in these 500 pages where someone replaced it?


----------



## UntilThen

As in it's not moving? I ordered an Aune T1 Mk2 sometime ago and when it arrived the power on/off switch just wouldn't move. It's stuck. The replacement unit that came has the same problem would you believe that?
  
 The unit I have now belongs to my son and it's fine. I tried searching this thread on power switch replacement for you but couldn't find anything. Maybe I was skimping through too fast.


----------



## manywelps

It's the same problem.  Feels gritty, but it does move, just no power when flipped.


----------



## mychkine

Hi,
Does it work good with a Cowon and dt990, 250 ohms ?

Thanks


----------



## UntilThen

Aune T1 will work very well with dt990 250 ohms. It worked great with my dt880 250ohms and hd650 300 ohms.
  
 Does the Cowon have a USB out to a mini-usb ? You can connect via USB to Aune T1 or RCA inputs but using the latter you're bypassing the tube DAC which is the nice part of the DAC/amp.
  
 Cheers


----------



## Eurobeat

So i haven't heard back from "Earth Sound Co" the "Official Distributor of Aune USA,"in almost a month.

 I sent them another email though, hopefully they will answer it, or else I will just Amazon Prime it for 200$


 Also... I noticed they have the same AUNE but 2 different prices.

 one is 160(was 165 last I saw),
 and the other is 195...

 http://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Generation-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00A2QJMRY/ref=sr_1_16?m=A39FYOOLAVWOQ7&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1444355129&sr=1-16

 http://www.amazon.com/Aune-Second-Generation-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00IWK8FK2/ref=sr_1_27?m=A39FYOOLAVWOQ7&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1444355211&sr=1-27

 I'm not sure if I should ask (idk if they would raise the price), or what, but I'm not sure if anyone else has any idea....

 Thanks...


 EDIT:  Apparently one is 192khz and the other is 96....?  I thought they all were 96....?  or am I confused lol (((


----------



## UntilThen

Yeah the one with 192 is wrong. They are 24/96. Both are Mk2 and should be the same. Go for the cheaper price. It's quite frustrating getting an Aune T1 that works but once you've one you'll be happy with it.


----------



## Eurobeat

untilthen said:


> Yeah the one with 192 is wrong. They are 24/96. Both are Mk2 and should be the same. Go for the cheaper price. It's quite frustrating getting an Aune T1 that works but once you've one you'll be happy with it.


 

 So we are 100% on that?  I've seen 192 before, but I've also read people saying it's not true.

 It's really cheap compared to others... But I'm waiting for another reply.  If something happens they wont be responding lol.. 

 What do you mean it's "Frustrating getting an Aune T1 that works."  Are you saying that they die a lot, or that there's a lot of DOA?

 I've heard some overheat and crap, but Idk...

 I'm also looking for a DAC for my 5.1 computer setup, but haven't found a 5.1 DAC...

 Thanks for the info :


----------



## UntilThen

Yes it's true Aune T1 USB is only 24/94 which is enough. I say that even though I'm using a NAD D1050 now which is 192.
  
 If it works it usually stays ok for the life of it. I'm using one that belongs to my son.
  
 I've ordered one that came with the power switch stuck. Even after I open up the box I couldn't move it. So I contacted the seller who promise it will be warehouse checked before reshipping. Behold the replacement came with the same problem !!!


----------



## Eurobeat

untilthen said:


> Yes it's true Aune T1 USB is only 24/94 which is enough. I say that even though I'm using a NAD D1050 now which is 192.
> 
> If it works it usually stays ok for the life of it. I'm using one that belongs to my son.
> 
> I've ordered one that came with the power switch stuck. Even after I open up the box I couldn't move it. So I contacted the seller who promise it will be warehouse checked before reshipping. Behold the replacement came with the same problem !!!


 


 Damn, who did you order from?

 I've heard a lot of mixed feelings on this unit.

 I've heard they can burn out and "overheat" as well 

 I do want this, but maybe it's worth investing in another tube DAC and a Tube amp...?


----------



## UntilThen

You won't find a cheaper tube DAC and there aren't that many tube DAC. Sure for more money I'd recommend a Darkvoice 336se but you need to invest in some tubes. Even then you still need a DAC and at this price point the Aune T1 is pretty good.
  
 Like I say if it's ok after a few weeks it will generally be ok for a long time. Another option is to buy a used unit from someone you can trust. I'm almost certain the unit with me will last forever. It's still using the original EH tube. I've since bought a pair of 6N23P 1975 but the EH tube sounds alright to me.
  
 I think the seller I got it from has vanished.


----------



## Eurobeat

untilthen said:


> You won't find a cheaper tube DAC and there aren't that many tube DAC. Sure for more money I'd recommend a Darkvoice 336se but you need to invest in some tubes. Even then you still need a DAC and at this price point the Aune T1 is pretty good.
> 
> Like I say if it's ok after a few weeks it will generally be ok for a long time. Another option is to buy a used unit from someone you can trust. I'm almost certain the unit with me will last forever. It's still using the original EH tube. I've since bought a pair of 6N23P 1975 but the EH tube sounds alright to me.
> 
> I think the seller I got it from has vanished.


 


 thanks.. .

 Apparently "Schiit" has a few Tube DACs, but they seem to be expensive.

 If you think this will be a great start for me.  It's decently expensive, but I think it will be a good buy.

 I'm looking at those "Amperex" tubes.

 Is the "Platinum Grade" worth it?

 http://www.upscaleaudio.com/amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin/

 Is this site also good?  IT was recommended in a few places...

 I want to buy a few tubes, but IDK what to get...

 I think I'm addicted... (and I don't even have a pair of HPs I like... yet )  ((((((((

 I'm also looking at trying out some "Grado 325e's" so I'm curious if this is not powerful enough?

 The first page mentions 2 HPs that don't work well with this...  I thought this goes pretty high up there on the "Impedance" though?

 Thanks


----------



## UntilThen

See I'm using a 6SN7 to 6922 adapter with my Aune T1. I have a lot of 6SN7 tubes so I'm playing around with it and it's sounding very good.


----------



## Eurobeat

untilthen said:


> See I'm using a 6SN7 to 6922 adapter with my Aune T1. I have a lot of 6SN7 tubes so I'm playing around with it and it's sounding very good.


 


 Nice 

 I'm not sure which Tubes to get tbh...

 I hear the Amperex is one of the best tubes you can get and makes everything"Holographic."  That sounds "interesting."  These last HPs really didn't do much for me, and I was surprised at them for the price... Granted their soundstage was amazing!

 I really want to be BLOWN AWAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 There seems to be other great tubes here..

 I want ones that will work well with my music, which can be shown here 

 http://www.head-fi.org/t/779971/need-help-finding-a-great-pair-of-headphones-please-details-inside

 I'm excited to enter this world, but it's a damn expensive hobby...

 I really need to find a good pair of HPs though...

 I'm not sure if I will find one though...


----------



## SirMarc

Driver grade is fine for the t1. I have 2 of them. I liked it so much I bought a spare. The t1 plays well with sennheiser phones, but eventually you should upgrade to a better amp and the sennheisers will sound even better


----------



## UntilThen

This is the adapter


----------



## Eurobeat

untilthen said:


> This is the adapter


 

 Looks awesome!
  


sirmarc said:


> Driver grade is fine for the t1. I have 2 of them. I liked it so much I bought a spare. The t1 plays well with sennheiser phones, but eventually you should upgrade to a better amp and the sennheisers will sound even better


 

 Nice!  Glad you like it!   I'm hoping I do, and hoping it's not that bright .  I was really sad at this last pair....  But maybe I didn't have enough power... I think it was 48 ohms.

 What kind of tubes do you like?


----------



## UntilThen

Agree with SirMarc completely. My HD650 sounds good with Aune T1 but add another tube amp and it's a different league. Welcome to this very rewarding hobby.


----------



## Eurobeat

untilthen said:


> Agree with SirMarc completely. My HD650 sounds good with Aune T1 but add another tube amp and it's a different league. Welcome to this very rewarding hobby.


 


 It's not rewarding on my Wallet... :'(....


 Also, we need the same tube for multiple stage amps/dacs right?

 Does that pose a problem for some people who cannot get a duplicate?  Would it be smart to buy doubles?????

 I'm looking at the tubes on the front page..   A lot of them sound good... ((((((((((((((((((((((((


----------



## SirMarc

Get a pair of hd600's and the amperex 7308 (driver grade) and you'll be a happy man. They're on the warmer side of neutral and sound great with the amperex. I use the t1 with a schiit Asgard 2 and a vintage sansui receiver every day for over a year. The amp section is OK, but the dac section in my opinion punches way out of its class


----------



## UntilThen

Nah you don't need to buy pairs. Doesn't have to be the same tubes for separate amp and dac.
  
 Good combo there Marc. I've gone a different route. Ended up with NAD D1050 - Elise by Feliks Audio - HD650


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> Get a pair of hd600's and the amperex 7308 (driver grade) and you'll be a happy man. They're on the warmer side of neutral and sound great with the amperex. I use the t1 with a schiit Asgard 2 and a vintage sansui receiver every day for over a year. The amp section is OK, but the dac section in my opinion punches way out of its class


 
 HD 600's over the 325e's??

 HMMM IDK...  I wonder if I can try those too....


----------



## SirMarc

Very, very different sounding cans. If you're worried about bright, steer clear of grados. The sennheisers will probably sound better too you.

@UntilThen, my vintage sansui 9090 kicks my Asgard 2's ass in so many ways. Bigger, wider soundstage, more air around the instruments, way more powerful sounding and drives my speakers. Looks pretty cool too...


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> Very, very different sounding cans. If you worried about bright, steer clear of grasps. The sennheisers will probably sound better too you.


 


((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((

 The Grados sound like they would be good for what I want, but just the brightness is scary.  The Senns might be too far on the other side for what I want.  I like energy, and all that good stuff.  Senns I hear are very warm, and "laid back."


 Also, why should I get a "Driver grade" over the other grades?  It seems like I would want the best one?????

  


untilthen said:


> Nah you don't need to buy pairs. Doesn't have to be the same tubes for separate amp and dac.
> 
> Good combo there Marc. I've gone a different route. Ended up with NAD D1050 - Elise by Feliks Audio - HD650


 


 I know someone was saying some have dual tubes (1 per ear), and so you need to pair them????


----------



## UntilThen

No doubt 
  
 I've always love vintage receivers and that Sansui is priceless now.
  
@Eurobeat  HD600 are a great set of cans... almost a classic now.


----------



## SirMarc

Read the descriptions at upscale audio. It explains it. Driver grade is all you need for a buffer stage. Try to listen to both cans. The 600's might surprise you...


----------



## Eurobeat

untilthen said:


> No doubt
> 
> I've always love vintage receivers and that Sansui is priceless now.
> 
> @Eurobeat  HD600 are a great set of cans... almost a classic now.


 


 I could also rent that from "TheCableCo..."

 about 35$ for the 2 rented.


 Idfk tho lol (((((((((((


----------



## UntilThen

Alright I didn't know your preference ..in that case probably the HE400i will suit you.
  
 Even with a tube amp that accepts 2 driver tubes you don't really need a matched pair. Would be good but not necessary as you'll be paying a lot more. Besides if you're only looking at the Aune T1 and Darkvoice 336se they only use a single tube.


----------



## SirMarc

untilthen said:


> No doubt
> 
> I've always love vintage receivers and that Sansui is priceless now.
> 
> ...



Yeah man, they're going for serious money on eBay. Great receiver, just had it serviced. Sounds ridiculously good with my speakers and headphones, which are hd580's brought up to spec by sennheiser last year


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> Read the descriptions at upscale audio. It explains it. Driver grade is all you need for a buffer stage. Try to listen to both cans. The 600's might surprise you...


 

 Yeah, it seems to have changed since I last looked at it...

 What exactly is "Microphony/Microphonics" and what do they mean "Noise?"  I've heard him mention "noise from turning on preamp...

 Would getting a higher grade sound better, or what's the benefits?
  


untilthen said:


> Alright I didn't know your preference ..in that case probably the HE400i will suit you.
> 
> Even with a tube amp that accepts 2 driver tubes you don't really need a matched pair. Would be good but not necessary as you'll be paying a lot more. Besides if you're only looking at the Aune T1 and Darkvoice 336se they only use a single tube.


 

 I give up... 

 So matched pairs are specifically matched and would cost more... WEAK.. So not even the same exact tubes will be "matched...?"

 Well, I'm just looking at the AUNE for now, not sure what else I shold look at...

 I've heard the "little dot"; is nice, but htat's an amp, not a DAC.  Also seems to have 2-3 tubes...?


----------



## SirMarc

I'm thinking t1, hd600's and a gold lion tube. From what you're saying, I think you'd love that


----------



## SirMarc

Driver grade is all we need for the t1. If there was a difference, I would have the platinum. They would sound the same


----------



## UntilThen

sirmarc said:


> I'm thinking t1, hd600's and a gold lion tube. From what you're saying, I think you'd love that


 

 That's a great recommendation.


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> Driver grade is all we need for the t1. If there was a difference, I would have the platinum. They would sound the same


 


 So where exactly does the difference happen?  Different equipment?  I read that "Preamps" and "Phonostage" need "Gold or higher."

 What is a "Phonostage," and what would constitute a "Preamp?"
  


sirmarc said:


> I'm thinking t1, hd600's and a gold lion tube. From what you're saying, I think you'd love that


 


 I give up x2....

 LOL...

 The "Rocket Boy" sounded good from what I read, but I only see "Driver grade" on the site, so if that works then maybe I'll grab that.
  
*Russian 6n23p Rocket logo*
 This tube is intimacy to the max. Warm, but not muddy. Forward sounding. Output volume seems higher than the other tubes I’ve tried. Very musical and engaging tube. It’s a fun listen for sure but it comes at the cost of some soundstage. Has a very punchy midbass but doesn’t have as much presence in the lowest bass notes. Has a kind of addictive tube sound.
  


untilthen said:


> That's a great recommendation.


 


 Then there's the HE400i... LOL


----------



## UntilThen

LOL Eurobeat. For now don't worry about phonostage and preamp. Certainly don't worry about grades higher than driver for the Aune T1.
  
 BTW I do have those rockets and can vouch that it sounds GREAT for $33 for the pair.


----------



## SirMarc

A phono stage is for a turntable. Everything I've read and heard from people I trust say that driver grade is all you need for a buffer stage. Its something to do with noise. Research it


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> A phono stage is for a turntable. Everything I've read and heard from people I trust say that driver grade is all you need for a buffer stage. Its something to do with noise. Research it


 
  
 Thanks, I guess if everyone does it....  But I wanted to be all cool and shizz....


untilthen said:


> LOL Eurobeat. For now don't worry about phonostage and preamp. Certainly don't worry about grades higher than driver for the Aune T1.
> 
> BTW I do have those rockets and can vouch that it sounds GREAT for $33 for the pair.


 

))))

 Alrighty, I wont then 

 Nice pair!  The one I see is 20$.

 This one also sounds interesting...

*Philips Miniwatt E188CC, made in Holland*

*I cannot find it for sale though, so I'm not sure what name it could be under...  and for some reason I cannot unbold this... NICE BUG!

 Anyways....  The Rocket Logo's description was odd on this Miniwatt, but if you also vouch for it I should try it out...



 AS FOR WHAT MUSIC I LIKE.

 I like music with ENERGY.  I like to MOVE with the music, and not dance, but my body feeling full of energy, head bobbing, etc....  I like "IMPACT" I want to be immersed and have a blissful explode as I'm listening to this music.*

 "Eurobeat" is very faced paced music that has a lot of songs dedicated to the "Car Genre."  YOu want to "Drive Fast" with this music...   That's what energy and impact this music has.  VGM is probably even moreso...

 Also... I somehow fixed the Bold, without doing anything but going to another line What LOL....


 BTW is there any way to power 5.1 speakers with an AUNE?  I want to get a DAC/AMP for my computer speakers, but it's an impossible task thus far (((((


----------



## Eurobeat

After posting some songs into the Grado thread, this is what I got as a reply

  


> Okay I played no. 2-3-4 of the Youtube videos on your thread for 20 seconds each; in the middle section of the song. I'm not going to listen to them with a 325e. It's mostly just sounds.
> Are you sure you want a headphone that is tilted upwards on their treble frequency?
> 
> If I were to listen to EDM songs, I personally would've choose something v-shaped or something wthat has more bass and on the warmer side of the spectrum. Does no. 2-3-4 videos of yours even need trebly headphone to begin with?


----------



## Koolpep

eurobeat said:


> BTW is there any way to power 5.1 speakers with an AUNE?  I want to get a DAC/AMP for my computer speakers, but it's an impossible task thus far (((((


 
 No. Most DAC/Amps are strictly 2 channel.
  
 Cheers,
 K


----------



## Eurobeat

koolpep said:


> No. Most DAC/Amps are strictly 2 channel.
> 
> Cheers,
> K


 


 So how do I use my 5.1 system .

 all of these people claiming I need to get a DAC....


----------



## UntilThen

Have a look at this http://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-x7
  
 I am not into 5.1 so I haven't research much but the above seems to do everything. How much? Haven't got a clue.


----------



## Eurobeat

untilthen said:


> Have a look at this http://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-x7
> 
> I am not into 5.1 so I haven't research much but the above seems to do everything. How much? Haven't got a clue.


 


 Ugh I clicked the link which apparently is set up with some stupid advertisement link from this forum and got a stupid error...  ******* dumb ****.

 Anyways looking it up it looks like a big clunk, and 400$. Does this sound like it would work???

 I also am not sure how I would hook up my speakers to a DAC.

 My colored wires (yellow, red, white, black and orange), go into my "Subwoofer" which then has a 2 sided cable with 3 colors on each side signifying Green = Front, Black = Rear, and Orange = center/sub...

 How would I use those wires...?

 Here's a pic! 
  

 Thanks for all of the help,. I greatly appreciate your time!!!


----------



## UntilThen

Easy. Leave all your subwoofer connections as it is. You only need a cable with RCAs on one end and 3.5mm on the other end. See the volume control on the left? That's coming from my sub. I use an old Creative Tech 2 sats and a sub system.
  
 That's all you need. When you listen to headphone, the speakers will be cut off. So it's either or which is good.
  
 I think the Creative Tech Sound Blaster x7 will work from reading the features but you need to research more. Like I said I am not into 5.1 but strictly headphone listening for me. Come to think of it there are actually 5.1 headphones LOL.
  
 Sorry this is derailing the thread. PM me if you need to chat further.


----------



## Eurobeat

So I'm curious what poeple like to use with their Aunes in terms of AMps??

 I hear the MK Little Dot is an interesting amp?


 So what's the most important part of the process?

 DAC or AMP?

 I would think the DAC would be more important than amplifying the sound?


 I'm also curious about why people picked the Aune over other DACs?  I'm assuming some people in here are using good quality HPs, or is this more for the budget people?  I'm not sure if I should look at other setups, but this seems like a good start.  I just don't know what HPs I'm getting, so not sure if that would change my options for Amp/DAC...?  In the end if I spend 90$ on the 2 tubes I was looking at, I've spent about 250$ on everything.


 Thanks all...


----------



## 2Dutch

eurobeat said:


> I'm also curious about why people picked the Aune over other DACs?  I'm assuming some people in here are using good quality HPs, or is this more for the budget people?  I'm not sure if I should look at other setups, but this seems like a good start.  I just don't know what HPs I'm getting, so not sure if that would change my options for Amp/DAC...?  In the end if I spend 90$ on the 2 tubes I was looking at, I've spent about 250$ on everything.
> 
> 
> Thanks all...


 
 I wanted an affordable headphone amp at home, and noticed "plopping" when using headsets on my MBP when using the headphone jack so I wanted a DAC as well. So when you add "tube rolling fun" to the mix, I think the Aune T1 is a winner. I'm using the Aune with HD 600's and Trinity Delta's (the Delta's don't require an amp, but it's convenient to use the Aune to switch between headsets and it can't hurt to use better input for them), and used it with a DT 990 Pro for a bit as well. When I buy something, it should last me a long time and not be "crazy expensive": I love bang for buck stuff. The Aune T1 can power a variety of affordable, mid range and high end headphones, is well built, a tube you can experiment with..don't think you'll regret it!


----------



## Eurobeat

2dutch said:


> I wanted an affordable headphone amp at home, and noticed "plopping" when using headsets on my MBP when using the headphone jack so I wanted a DAC as well. So when you add "tube rolling fun" to the mix, I think the Aune T1 is a winner. I'm using the Aune with HD 600's and Trinity Delta's (the Delta's don't require an amp, but it's convenient to use the Aune to switch between headsets and it can't hurt to use better input for them), and used it with a DT 990 Pro for a bit as well. When I buy something, it should last me a long time and not be "crazy expensive": I love bang for buck stuff. The Aune T1 can power a variety of affordable, mid range and high end headphones, is well built, a tube you can experiment with..don't think you'll regret it!


 


 Awesome, thanks.  So it does "Tube roll?"  I wasn't sure if that was a special feature, or what.  I noticed the "Project Ember": amp said that as a special thing, but didn't see anything about it on this unit.

 As for powering the HD 600's, how do oyu like them with the Aune?  They were one of the recommendations for me.  Someone said they had tried the aune with the 650 and 600 and din't like the 650 without an addtional amp, so I'm curious your feelings about this also?

 I also was recommended the Oppo PM3, so I'm not sure about that one.  Id id find a loaner program, but not sure if I will go for it....

 Would love to try all of these headphones out, before purchasing them tho .  (would be nice to try an aune out too LOL, but Earth Sound Co finally got back to me and will allow returns so...  )....


 Thanks!


----------



## Hansotek

eurobeat said:


> Awesome, thanks.  So it does "Tube roll?"  I wasn't sure if that was a special feature, or what.  I noticed the "Project Ember": amp said that as a special thing, but didn't see anything about it on this unit.
> 
> As for powering the HD 600's, how do oyu like them with the Aune?  They were one of the recommendations for me.  Someone said they had tried the aune with the 650 and 600 and din't like the 650 without an addtional amp, so I'm curious your feelings about this also?
> 
> ...


 
  
 "Tube Rolling" is just the act of changing out different tubes to get a different sound out of the unit. If you see an exposed tube on the amp, you can roll tubes with it. Usually you can change them out if the tube is internal as well, but I think certain units like the Schiit Vali are meant to have the tube be a permanent fixture.
  
 How the HD650 sounds with the T1 will depend a bit on the tube. That headphone can be a little finicky. I like it with the Dario Miniwatt 188CC tube... which gives the T1's DAC a sort of special synergy with it's internal amp... though that tube is rather expensive and not so easy to find. But I'm kinda picky. Can't tell you how the HD600 sounds with it, I've only heard them independently of one another. The HD600 is usually pretty easy though. It tends to sound good with most things.


----------



## Eurobeat

hansotek said:


> "Tube Rolling" is just the act of changing out different tubes to get a different sound out of the unit. If you see an exposed tube on the amp, you can roll tubes with it. Usually you can change them out if the tube is internal as well, but I think certain units like the Schiit Vali are meant to have the tube be a permanent fixture.
> 
> How the HD650 sounds with the T1 will depend a bit on the tube. That headphone can be a little finicky. I like it with the Dario Miniwatt 188CC tube... which gives the T1's DAC a sort of special synergy with it's internal amp... though that tube is rather expensive and not so easy to find. But I'm kinda picky. Can't tell you how the HD600 sounds with it, I've only heard them independently of one another. The HD600 is usually pretty easy though. It tends to sound good with most things.


 


 Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

 I've been getting a lot of recommendations for Hps, so honestly not too sure what I'm going to use the Aune with .  The Oppo PM-3 is also another choice someone recommended.

 The Dario/Phillips Miniwatt seems to be a tube that is preferred, like the Amperex 7308, but I couldn't find that tube on upscaleaudio, like I could that Amperex and the "Rocket Logo" i'm also interested in getting...  I also read about the "Gold Lion" which someone also recommended to me, which I found here http://www.upscaleaudio.com/gold-lion-e88cc-6922/

 Someone said all we need is driver grade, but they don't have driver grade...  I can gold grade and it will work the same as driver then?  Not sure if I should also get the rocket Logo with this....   

 The site also mentions these http://www.upscaleaudio.com/telefunken-e88cc-6922/ and he makes a big deal about them....  I wonder if anyone has heard this one? 

 Not really sure what I should get, though, as I'm confused about what I want in headphones, since I'm new to this all..  I also don't want to go too crazy, and regret all of my purchases... ....


 thanks!


----------



## Hansotek

eurobeat said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > "Tube Rolling" is just the act of changing out different tubes to get a different sound out of the unit. If you see an exposed tube on the amp, you can roll tubes with it. Usually you can change them out if the tube is internal as well, but I think certain units like the Schiit Vali are meant to have the tube be a permanent fixture.
> ...



Yeah, you're not going to find the Miniwatt on Upscale. It takes some time and effort. It's a rare one. I have the Telefunkens from Upscale, and I like them quite a bit. I use them with the Lyr. I would recommend without hesitation. The batch they scored is quite fantastic. 

I own the Oppo PM-3 as well. I'm a big fan, but doesn't really match well with the T1. I've compared head to head with the HD-650 on the T1, and the HD-650 sounded better... Though most closed backs won't sound good head-to-head with an open back. If you're going direct off of a phone or a DAP, the PM-3 will be much better. 

I don't know what all you're looking for in a headphone setup, and don't want to take the thread too far off topic, so feel free to PM me... I've heard a lot of stuff, lol.


----------



## Eurobeat

hansotek said:


> Yeah, you're not going to find the Miniwatt on Upscale. It takes some time and effort. It's a rare one. I have the Telefunkens from Upscale, and I like them quite a bit. I use them with the Lyr. I would recommend without hesitation. The batch they scored is quite fantastic.
> 
> I own the Oppo PM-3 as well. I'm a big fan, but doesn't really match well with the T1. I've compared head to head with the HD-650 on the T1, and the HD-650 sounded better... Though most closed backs won't sound good head-to-head with an open back. If you're going direct off of a phone or a DAP, the PM-3 will be much better.
> 
> I don't know what all you're looking for in a headphone setup, and don't want to take the thread too far off topic, so feel free to PM me... I've heard a lot of stuff, lol.


 


 How nice is the Miniwatt?  Have you tried the Amperex 7308, the Rocket Logo, or the Gold Lion?

 Have you tried the Telefunkens on the aune?  How is it overall?  If you don't mind me asking if you paid less than the asking price currently?  It seems the price is going up as the stock is sold, and he posted the video in march of 2014, so I'm sure they've gone up a bit..  Are they worth the asking price, and would it be something to invest in?  From what you say you would grab it no matter what...  I don't want to go tube crazy, but I definitely want a nice setup, and I think Tubes are something to grab now, before it's too late for a lot of them.  I don't know if I even like tubes though, but judging by what I hear, it seems like I would.

 I'm not sure what to invest into..  I've sene 250 and 450$ tubes.  How do I know what I want to get into is really the question...  It seems some people might be happy wuith a 50$ tube comparatively.. 

 What do you like to pair the Oppo with?  Why didn't it match well with the T1?  was it the Amp???

 As for what I'm going from, I'm looking for a desktop setup, and you can read more about everything you can check here http://www.head-fi.org/t/784392/need-help-finding-a-pair-of-headphones-for-around-300


 Thanks a lot!  If you want to post in that thread, or I can pm you, whatever is easier... Thanks!

 FWIW I was also Recommended the AKG K7xx, so not sure how they go with the Aune, and how good they are for my likes... Thanks!


----------



## 2Dutch

hansotek said:


> Can't tell you how the HD600 sounds with it, I've only heard them independently of one another. The HD600 is usually pretty easy though. It tends to sound good with most things.


 
 I already liked the way my HD 600's sound with the Aune and the stock tube, and by tube rolling you can tweak the sound to your liking. The stock tubes are okay in my ears, the Genelex Lion gives it a bit more (posted about it in this topic as well, but many will agree) and give it a bit more bass as well. The HD 600's are easy to drive and easy to like/love because of their neutral sound, but it is a fair amount of money to spend on headphones. As mentioned before: they will last for many many years, so if you think of it that way: not that expensive at all.
  
 Trying out different amps en headphones (friends, maybe some Head Fi-meets?) is always recommended if you have the option to do so. I personally just went with the online reviews and bang for buck gamble and it worked out for me..but if I had the option to go into a store and try different amps and headphones I would have. But I am very content with the setup I have, only thing I'm experimenting with / will experiment with are some different tubes. Not a must have, but I am just curious


----------



## Hansotek

eurobeat said:


> hansotek said:
> 
> 
> > Yeah, you're not going to find the Miniwatt on Upscale. It takes some time and effort. It's a rare one. I have the Telefunkens from Upscale, and I like them quite a bit. I use them with the Lyr. I would recommend without hesitation. The batch they scored is quite fantastic.
> ...


 
  
 The Miniwatt is very nice. It ranked #6 overall in @rb2013's big shootout of 6922/7308-type tubes (his test tube was made one year later in the same factory as mine... it bears the Philips name, but it's the same. They just dropped the "Dario" name on the subbrand and kept Miniwatt). Comparatively speaking, the Ulm Germany Telefunken 88CCs they sell on upscale rank 10th. It's all subjective, so YMMV. I consider rb2013 to be one of the foremost 6922/7308 experts out there, so the thread is definitely worth a read:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/761078/6922-tube-review-17-top-6922-6n23p-e88cc-cca-7308-e188cc-tubes  
  
 If you are considering spending all that extra cash ($250-$450, as you mentioned) on a tube, I would advise skipping over the Aune entirely and getting a better amp and DAC.
  
 I like the Telefunkens a lot, but $169 is a bit high. I don't think I would go for that, personally, unless I really wanted that specific sound for a higher-end device. The good thing about Upscale is you can count on the quality of what you are getting. On the downside, they tend to be a little expensive.
  
 As for the Oppo, I like it just fine out of an iPhone, Fiio X3 mkii, Burson HA-160, Lyr and others. It's not bad out of the T1 or anything, but the amp doesn't really upgrade the sound on it very much, so what's the point? If you really want to upgrade the sound on those, you'll need to get a balanced cable and amp to extract the extra goods.
  
 I'll go check out your thread.


----------



## mikoss

@Eurobeat The Oppo PM-3 is a sealed planar style headphone that has a nominal impedance of 26 ohms... the T1's output impedance is around 10 ohms, so the rule of damping would be that 80 ohm or more headphones will sound best. Personally, I don't find this to matter as much for planar headphones, but I have found this:
  
 - Lower Z and Planar headphones in general work very well with high current capable amps. 
 - Higher Z Dynamic headphones in general work well with amps with higher voltage swing.
  
  
 My advice would be to not worry about tube rolling or even about the Aune T1 until you decide on which headphones to buy. Also as per above, the HD-600 or HD-650 headphones are extremely capable so-called "mid-fi" headphones. Both work well with the T1, and there are very, very few headphones that I personally prefer to the HD-650's.... Not even the $2000 LCD-3's.


----------



## Eurobeat

mikoss said:


> @Eurobeat The Oppo PM-3 is a sealed planar style headphone that has a nominal impedance of 26 ohms... the T1's output impedance is around 10 ohms, so the rule of damping would be that 80 ohm or more headphones will sound best. Personally, I don't find this to matter as much for planar headphones, but I have found this:
> 
> - Lower Z and Planar headphones in general work very well with high current capable amps.
> - Higher Z Dynamic headphones in general work well with amps with higher voltage swing.
> ...


 


 Thanks, not sure what I'm going to get.  The K7xx's seem to have a great soundstage, but reviews on the 702/712 mention they are "cold" and "not very exciting" "fatiguing..."  I hear tha thte senns have their "veil" very warm, etc....

 Oppos.. not too sure about..

 Going to try renting stuff, but yeah, seems like I'll pick my HPs first, then get gear for them...  Would be nice to keep gear for multiple Hps though... 

 thanks!


----------



## joeq70

Hey fellas! I decided to sell my Miniwatt Dario E188CC because I don't want to deal with having to find another one sometime in the future. I've priced it to sell quickly. Just a heads up for you all


----------



## netterly

Hi, I am waiting for a pair of  HD650 in order to listen mostly to jazz music.
  
 I am looking for a DAC/AMP and I am really considering the Aune T1 , what do you think of it matched with HD650?
  
 Anyone have any direct experience or any thought comparing Aune T1 sound quality  with:
  
 Aune X1S
 NuForce Icon HDP
 NAD D1050 DAC
 or other desk/compact AMP/DC for HD650?
  
 Thanks


----------



## mikoss

Aune T1 drives the HD-650's very well... Try an Philips tube from Holland with it.


----------



## chowmein83

netterly said:


> Hi, I am waiting for a pair of  HD650 in order to listen mostly to jazz music.
> 
> I am looking for a DAC/AMP and I am really considering the Aune T1 , what do you think of it matched with HD650?
> 
> ...


 
  
 Wow, I actually just compared the X1s to the T1 in my review that I just posted: http://www.head-fi.org/products/aune-x1s-32bit-384khz-dsd-dac-headphone-amplifier/reviews/14366
  
 Hopefully it helps!


----------



## marts30

Anyone else have the problem where switching to the Aune T1 device makes programs hang/wait/not respond for a while?

 eg. If I've set my system to use the Aune T1 then open Steam, it will take ages and not respond, the second I switch to another device it will load instantly. Not sure what could be causing it.


----------



## Baifern

Just bought a silver MK2 used from craigslist for $80 which looked like it has never been used. I will post my review later on after a few hours of listening.


----------



## Baifern

Okay, so after at least three hours of listening with the Mk2, I found myself satisfied, very satisfied for what I paid ($80). You might ask what HP I'm using, but I’m one of the few who bought the T1 as a dedicated DAC / soundcard and not a HP amp.
  
 Here's a quick look at my setup:
  
 1979 Yamaha CA-1010 Integrated Amp
 1987 KEF 104/2 Speakers
 Self-built HTPC with Windows 10 Pro 64bit
 Aune T1 MK2 silver with stock 6922EH tube
  
 I was originally using a Terratec DMX 6Fire USB, which sounded great to my ears. It is balanced and gave me zero fatigue even after hours of listening.
  
 While reading some KEF 104/2 reviews, many swear about the quality these speakers can produce and of course, you cannot get that quality if your source is not good enough. So, I looked for a bang for a buck DAC and found the Aune T1.

 First few minutes, it sounded only a bit better than the Terratec, but everything changed after half an hour or so. My head started to turn left and right spotting different instruments that sounded like they’re not coming in front of me. Soundstage was wide while the vocals remained at the center. I can hear every strum of the guitar and much clearer than before. The snare drum was airy and very natural, I can hear the drumstick hitting the head. The lower end is more accurate and less boomy than the Terratec. I’m hearing lots of things I didn’t hear before.
  
 Right now, with the 6922EH, the sound is not that warm, it’s more on the detail and clarity side, but once I receive my 1969 Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globe and 1966 Amperex 7308 PQ Gold Pin, I’m expecting more from the Aune T1. And for sure, that’ll make me start hunting more for tube rolling.
  
 I’m just thrilled to hear how the music is reproduced by this DAC. Clear enough, there are many musical characteristics that solid states cannot do.


----------



## SirMarc

baifern said:


> Okay, so after at least three hours of listening with the Mk2, I found myself satisfied, very satisfied for what I paid ($80). You might ask what HP I'm using, but I’m one of the few who bought the T1 as a dedicated DAC / soundcard and not a HP amp.
> 
> Here's a quick look at my setup:
> 
> ...



Wait till you hear the amperex 7308 with your rig. That's what I use with my t1, Sansui 9090 and dahlquist dq20's. I also like the gold lion when things sound a bit too warm with the 7308.


----------



## joeq70

Anyone have a gold lion for sale? I lost mine :/


----------



## SirMarc

Amazon has them


----------



## teb1013

sirmarc said:


> Wait till you hear the amperex 7308 with your rig. That's what I use with my t1, Sansui 9090 and dahlquist dq20's. I also like the gold lion when things sound a bit too warm with the 7308.




7308 is the best with the T1!


----------



## Smark

I've had this DAC for just over 1 year and I love it! I have one issue which has been annoying me to no end. I can't determine if this is a flaw with the DAC or what. Wondering if you guys have any ideas...
  
 Ever since I've used this the interaction with Mumble (voice chat client similar to Ventrilo/Teamspeak) has been strange. I've dealt with this issue in various ways over the past year but it hasn't completely gone away. I recently began working with the developers in this GitHub issue: Push to Talk Randomly Not Recognized
  
 The consensus seems to be that the Aune T1 MK2 DAC is presenting itself as a DirectInput device (such as a keyboard or mouse) when used via USB. Has anyone see any strange PC behavior with this unit and Mumble? With over 7500 posts in this thread, someone has to be using this with Mumble. Would love to hear if you've had any issues. The symptom is basically you have the DAC plugged in when you launch Mumble all input devices freeze momentarily. I plan on doing more troubleshooting with this this evening and week so hopefully I can find a solution. My thoughts are that this may be some issue with either the USB Drivers (which are autoinstalled) or with the actual USB components/firmware internal to the DAC.
  
 Does anyone know of a specific place to find support for this product? The manufacturer site is fairly useless and is entirely in chinese.


----------



## Eurobeat

smark said:


> I've had this DAC for just over 1 year and I love it! I have one issue which has been annoying me to no end. I can't determine if this is a flaw with the DAC or what. Wondering if you guys have any ideas...
> 
> Ever since I've used this the interaction with Mumble (voice chat client similar to Ventrilo/Teamspeak) has been strange. I've dealt with this issue in various ways over the past year but it hasn't completely gone away. I recently began working with the developers in this GitHub issue: Push to Talk Randomly Not Recognized
> 
> ...


 


 "Earth Sound Co" is the authorized distributor for the US, you could contact them.  There is also a list of distributors for other countries, if you aren't from the USA.

 Kind of sucks that you're having this issue.  The GitHub is for Mumble?  They should find a way to just block the DAC's input.  IS the DAC being recognized as some setting within Mumble?  I don't have the DAC, so I don't know exactly the issues that could arise...


----------



## AuneAudio

smark said:


> I've had this DAC for just over 1 year and I love it! I have one issue which has been annoying me to no end. I can't determine if this is a flaw with the DAC or what. Wondering if you guys have any ideas...
> 
> Ever since I've used this the interaction with Mumble (voice chat client similar to Ventrilo/Teamspeak) has been strange. I've dealt with this issue in various ways over the past year but it hasn't completely gone away. I recently began working with the developers in this GitHub issue: Push to Talk Randomly Not Recognized
> 
> ...


 
 What is your problem ? Please PM us , we will check your problem , thanks


----------



## Baifern

I received my '69 Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globe Holland and while it's warm sounding, I can hear some details missing and narrower soundstage. I prefer the clarity of the stock 6922EH, but I wish it's a little warmer. Now, my question is, since this 6DJ8 is a NOS tube, can I expect more from it after 10+ hours of burning in? Is burn-in a requirement for NOS tubes?
  
 I'll get the Amperex 7308 later on, but I also want to try the Genalex Gold Lion. 
  
 What tube can you recommend that is just a bit warmer than the stock 6922EH? I'm looking to spend around $30-$50.
  
 Thanks!


----------



## Baifern

The 6DJ8 Orange Globe was also a bit brighter, I had to put the 6922EH back. Didn't expect that from a 1969 Amperex tube.


----------



## SirMarc

The 7308 I would say is warmish, with good deep bass, an excellent smooth midrange, and slightly relaxed highs, but not lacking in detail. Sounds to be exactly what you're looking for. I use one almost exclusively


----------



## Baifern

sirmarc said:


> The 7308 I would say is warmish, with good deep bass, an excellent smooth midrange, and slightly relaxed highs, but not lacking in detail. Sounds to be exactly what you're looking for. I use one almost exclusively


 
 I will definitely give the 7308 a try. What kind of 7308 are you using right now?


----------



## SirMarc

White label JAN from 1966. I've heard that all the American amperex 7308's sound the same they were just labeled for different branches of the military


----------



## SirMarc

Let it break in though, I was not that impressed when I first got it. It sounded slightly muffled with pretty weak bass. I let it burn in over night, and was like holy sh!t. Over the next 40 or so hours it just got better and better. I ended up liking it so much, i ordered another to have as a back up in case this one goes bad. I spent more on these 2 tubes than the Aune lol


----------



## Baifern

Okay, I will put the 6DJ8 back in and let it play for few hours. Your second 7308 is also a 1966 white JAN label? I was wondering if I'd get a different result if I get a different year than yours.
  
 Let me see what the auction site have right now..


----------



## SirMarc

Its a 67 white JAN, but its only a few months newer by the date codes. I get mine from upscale audio. They're more expensive, but they are tested and can be cryo treated for a few bucks more. If you get one from there, get driver grade. No use spending more when you don't need it.


----------



## Baifern

sirmarc said:


> Its a 67 white JAN, but its only a few months newer by the date codes. I get mine from upscale audio. They're more expensive, but they are tested and can be cryo treated for a few bucks more. If you get one from there, get driver grade. No use spending more when you don't need it.


 
 Thanks for the tip! I will get the 7308 if my 6DJ8 fails to impress me.
  
 Sounds like you're right about burn-in. The 6DJ8's sound stage is now opening up and details are starting to come up. Will let it play for few more hours and will report back for the result.


----------



## SirMarc

Cool. Good luck. Us vintage audio guys have to stick together lol


----------



## Baifern

sirmarc said:


> Cool. Good luck. Us vintage audio guys have to stick together lol


 
  
 I know right?! The internet is more friendly when it comes to our hobbies. Me and my friends share the same interests except for hi-fi and vintage audio stuff. They believe that the newer technology today is better until I brought them home, played their favorite songs and couldn't believe what they just heard! They couldn't believe that the sound they're hearing was coming from only two speakers and it was a totally different experience from what they call "high quality" sound from their iPhones.


----------



## SirMarc

Yeah, tell me about it. There's a giant thread on head-fi for guys like us and most of the people on there are pretty cool. The only thing is it seems to have gotten very pioneer centric. 
I've had very expensive modern pieces, but I get more enjoyment out of the better 70's gear. Its more warm and alot less fatiguing to listen to, and when i want to crank it, they rock harder


----------



## Baifern

sirmarc said:


> I've had very expensive modern pieces, but I get more enjoyment out of the better 70's gear. Its more warm and alot less fatiguing to listen to, and when i want to crank it, they rock harder


 
  
 Exactly! And when these stuff says 40wpc, it's more than that! Today's gear are exaggerated when it comes to specs, of course with exception to those "higher end" stuffs. I'm referring to those you could get from Best Buy. More than a hundred watts per channel, but when you try to lift it, it's like a weight of a cd player!
  
 Anyway, let's go back to the T1 and tubes. Are yours the MK1 or MK2? How old is it? I've read from the previous pages that the newer batch have some quality issues on them. That's the reason why I was so skeptical in getting the MK2 version, but for $80, I couldn't ask for more. I'm just glad that I'm not experiencing any of those mentioned issues.


----------



## SirMarc

Imagine how powerful my 110 wpc Sansui from 1975 is lol, and it weighs over 50 lbs! 
I've had my mk 1 for about a year and a half I guess. The EH 6922 is ok, the Gold Lion is better in every way, but the 7308 is just in another league in my opinion. I've heard good things about the orange globe though. Give it some more hours to burn in and see what you think. I'd still get a 7308 if I were you though. From what you're saying, I think like me, it'll your end game tube


----------



## Baifern

Yeah, my Yamaha CA-1010 I believe is 100wpc and this thing is so heavy, maybe just weighs a little less than your 9090. I also have a Pioneer SX-1010 that also weighs a ton! 1970's stuff really holds up today and offers much better than what they offer in stores right now.

 For the Gold Lion, I heard that they sound "digital," but I also heard some say it's warm. I'm confused, what's your take on that? I'll definitely order a 7308 after my 6DJ8 is fully burned-in. I want to see how much more it can offer and if it's really a bang for a buck for $25.


----------



## SirMarc

Hmm, hard to say. I wouldn't say its warm, it does sound solid state-ish to me, but not in a bad way. Its more forward sounding than the 7308, and the soundstage isn't as wide, but its a fun tube. I usually put it in with a very warm sounding recording. Not sure if you're a Porcupine Tree fan, but Lightbulb Sun in 24/48 is a very warm album. I actually like the Gold Lion better with that


----------



## Baifern

Okay, thanks for that analogy. I'll probably order the 7308 first before spending another $40 for the Gold Lion.

 Having so much tube compatible with the T1, I really want to try all the recommended ones, but some of them are hard to find or too expensive. Spending $80 or more for a single tube is too much for me especially if I can get something in the $20-$30 range that can offer almost the same performance.


----------



## Baifern

Wow, the 6DJ8 is starting to shine! It now gives more detail and soundstage. The tone also became warmer and the bass is more accurate. I'm starting to like the 6DJ8 orange globe. Hopefully, it will improve after 10+ hours or so..


----------



## SirMarc

Cool


----------



## Baifern

Discovered something a while ago. As usual, the T1 was selected as "Default Device" and I was playing a song on Foobar, then I thought of changing the tube. I stopped the playback on Foobar, turned off the T1 and changed the tube. Turn it back on, pressed play on Foobar, nothing! I thought I didn't put the tube properly, but it was okay. I restarted the PC and the sound was working again.
  
 To avoid this from happening, close Foobar completely, open "Playback Devices" and set another playback device as default and you can turn off the T1. Don't forget to set the T1 back as default device before playing a song.


----------



## Baifern

I've heard good things about the Sovtek 6H30Pi Cryo, anyone here using it?


----------



## Baifern

For those of you who doesn't like the white led at the bottom of the tube or it's too bright for you, here's what I did to make it look a bit better:

 I cut a small portion of the rca cover and put it at the center of the tube socket:
  

  
 Here's what it looks like:
  

  
 Quick and easy! I've tested this for at least 20 hours and the red rubber cover doesn't melt or something.


----------



## penmarker

baifern said:


> Discovered something a while ago. As usual, the T1 was selected as "Default Device" and I was playing a song on Foobar, then I thought of changing the tube. I stopped the playback on Foobar, turned off the T1 and changed the tube. Turn it back on, pressed play on Foobar, nothing! I thought I didn't put the tube properly, but it was okay. I restarted the PC and the sound was working again.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



 

What you can do is to download the WASAPI plugin. It will give you some options as to which setting you want to choose, select the WASAPI (PUSH). What this does is it forcefeeds the audio signal straight from the player to Aune T1 without going through any windows audio. The effect is subtle but it does sound clearer.
One more advantage is it will stay as it is. You can turn on and off all you want, it will stay as WASAPI (PUSH) Aune T1 until kingdom come. Even when you chose different playback output on Windows and play a youtube video on your laptop speakers, Foobar will still forcefeed its audio to Aune T1.

Do note that when you choose playback device as Aune T1 in Windows and WASAPI (PUSH) in Foobar, it will give priority to Foobar. When you have any music playing in Foobar, nothing else from other softwares and applications will have audio. You will have to either Stop playback (not Pause) or close Foobar to let other softwares or applications to have sound.


----------



## SirMarc

baifern said:


> For those of you who doesn't like the white led at the bottom of the tube or it's too bright for you, here's what I did to make it look a bit better:
> 
> 
> I cut a small portion of the rca cover and put it at the center of the tube socket:
> ...



Lol, that's the same thing I did. Great minds man...


----------



## teb1013

baifern said:


> For those of you who doesn't like the white led at the bottom of the tube or it's too bright for you, here's what I did to make it look a bit better:
> 
> 
> I cut a small portion of the rca cover and put it at the center of the tube socket:
> ...


 

I used a little dab with a red marker! I could never stand the white led, it just didn't look "tube-like" of course the tube, used as a buffer just doesn't generate enough light itself. Interestingly, I understand that the Woo WA7, which definitely isn't using tubes as buffers, uses LEDs to enhance the look (but theirs are red).


----------



## Chs177

*Baifern*, if you plan to change tubes socket saver is good option and it completely block led light.


----------



## Baifern

chs177 said:


> *Baifern*, if you plan to change tubes socket saver is good option and it completely block led light.


 
 Thanks for that tip, but I prefer to have a small amount of led light. I actually thought of getting a socket saver, but I realized that it will change the T1's appearance and the tube will look like it's not a part of the DAC. I know it's only psychological, but I really like how my T1 looks right now.
  
 I appreciate your suggestion.


----------



## Baifern

After 30+ hours of burn-in, the Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globe (Holland) didn't meet my expectations. It used to be detailed at around 15+ hours, but started to degrade at 20+ hours. I though it would improve, but it doesn't. Everything sounds great, except for the less soundstage and detail compared to the stock 6922EH. I'll continue to use it for few more hours and see if there would be any improvement.
  
 Here's the actual tube for reference:


----------



## Eurobeat

Hello all 

I have this device which I posted some info on here

http://www.head-fi.org/t/787782/can-someone-explain-all-these-inputs-and-output-jacks-on-my-device

and I'm curious, if I get some HPS, where would I plug the AUNE into?

I believe my SoundCard has both an AMP and DAC, but I figure the aune would probably be a lot better. Idk the output impedance of the Aune though, but I think my soundcard's is 10 ohms, but not too sure on the I/O box, will inquire!


I'm curious where on this device I would input the Aune, or would I, in fact, have to plug it directly into USB to get the tube to work? ((((

Or could I plug the USB in for the tube, and then plug something else into this console I/O box, so that I may benefit from my sound card?

Thanks for advice team! 



--------------------

Also, FWIW, I would be wary about using the cap on the aune to change the LED. I hear this unit gets hot (but since you own it yourself, you can verify it better than I can), so I would suggest BE CAREFUL!

I wonder if you could take apart the AUNE and then rig up another LED? )))) Has anyone ever opened their Aune?


Thanks for the help!

EDIT:

Found some pics in Google... Not too sure where the Tube sits... Seems like something was taken out... GOing to explore more pics 





Here is the image of the other side. I guess you would have to tube the tube plug and then solder out the led... damn... hmm..

Going to investigate if anyone has changed it.


I found this thread http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/238148-diy-replacingupgrading-capacitors-on-the-aune-t1-image-heavy/

From a computer forum I know about, and they link back to us (haha), for this mod, but the pictures and such are very good to show what's going on!

I'm not sure if this was pics from someone here, or the guy there, but figured I'd share it regardless...


LED looks like it could be a pain, but TBH you probably could throw another LED above the first one, block the light from the first one, and then connect it to an outside source .

Get something like some LED strips

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DTOAWZ2?keywords=supernight%20led%20strip&qid=1447934354&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

We only really need 1 LED though, but TBH, you could make your entire aune glow )))


----------



## Baifern

Eurobeat,
  
 That's an I/O expansion that connects to your creative sound card. I don't quite understand what you're trying to do and wonder why you would need to use that in addition with your T1? If you want to record some real instruments (eg: electric guitar or keyboard), you could use the MIDI in found on the back of that I/O expansion. It is also capable of receiving phono (turntable) signal if you want to digitize some vinyl records.
  
 Otherwise, if you'd only listen to music, forget that creative as the T1 will sound better in my opinion.


----------



## Eurobeat

baifern said:


> Eurobeat,
> 
> That's an I/O expansion that connects to your creative sound card. I don't quite understand what you're trying to do and wonder why you would need to use that in addition with your T1? If you want to record some real instruments (eg: electric guitar or keyboard), you could use the MIDI in found on the back of that I/O expansion. It is also capable of receiving phono (turntable) signal if you want to digitize some vinyl records.
> 
> Otherwise, if you'd only listen to music, forget that creative as the T1 will sound better in my opinion.


 


 Thanks.

 I have the card now, but not the aune .

 I was curious if I bought the aune to bypass the DAC on the I/O "expansion" as you called it, would I be able to use the Aune as well?

 the reason being is that my speakers will be connected to the sound card, and I could connect headphones, but figured the aune is probably a nice addition, but I'm not sure what headphones I will get, and I hear this is a high output impedance DAC sooo 

 Thoughts?

 Thanks


----------



## Baifern

> the reason being is that my speakers will be connected to the sound card, and I could connect headphones, but figured the aune is probably a nice addition, but I'm not sure what headphones I will get, and I hear this is a high output impedance DAC sooo


 
  
 The T1 has rca outputs on the back, which you can use to connect your PC speakers, just use an adaptor like this:


 Or you can just connect the PC speakers directly on the headphone output of the T1. Remove it and plug your headphones when you want.


----------



## Eurobeat

baifern said:


> The T1 has rca outputs on the back, which you can use to connect your PC speakers, just use an adaptor like this:
> 
> 
> Or you can just connect the PC speakers directly on the headphone output of the T1. Remove it and plug your headphones when you want.


 



 1.  I have 5.1 speakers with 3 colored cable (green, orange, black).

 2.  I want to use my soundcard, and the Console box, due to enjoying the features, and the software was nice too!

 So I want to use my creative gear, but using a tube dac would probably be very nice for my HPs, granted I haven't gotten a pair yet...

 I figured I could bypass the internals, and use the Aune or another Amp if I wanted to.  SOmeone mentioned it would be a waste to the sound card, but it should still be an amp (I'm not sure if it's an amp, or pre-amp, I've also heard the term "OP-Amp" used for it)....

 I figure I could still utilize the software and the controls on the Expansion/Console I/O box .

 Thoughts?

 Thanks!


----------



## Baifern

Eurobeat,

 You can use the T1 together with your soundcard. Set the creative soundcard as default device so all of your audio will play to the 5.1 speakers and use the creative software. Then if you want to listen to music and use the T1 with headphones, just set the output device of the music player (Foobar, Winamp, etc.) to T1.


----------



## Eurobeat

baifern said:


> Eurobeat,
> 
> You can use the T1 together with your soundcard. Set the creative soundcard as default device so all of your audio will play to the 5.1 speakers and use the creative software. Then if you want to listen to music and use the T1 with headphones, just set the output device of the music player (Foobar, Winamp, etc.) to T1.


 


 I just figured I could plug the Aune into the I/O box and be able to control everything with the box, volume and all.  I figured I could plug an external amp/dac in, but maybe not? ((

 I see on the back here


 There is "Audio in" and "Audio Out"

 Couldn't I use the back of my soundblaster I/O Box







  

6.Coaxial SPDIF In/Out jacksConnect digital audio recording/playback devices with coaxial jacks (for example, MiniDisc recorders, Digital Audio Tape recorders or external hard disk recorders) to these jacks.
  

 and just plug directly into the Aune?????


----------



## Baifern

While it's possible to connect the Audio Out of T1 to Aux Line In of creative expansion, the tube buffer of the T1 would be useless since the "warm signal" sound from the T1 will then be "digitalized" by the creative soundcard, therefore degrading the sound.

 Why make things complicated when you can just simplify things out? Just use each of them separately. Use the T1 for music listening via headphones, then use the creative on everything else.


----------



## Eurobeat

baifern said:


> While it's possible to connect the Audio Out of T1 to Aux Line In of creative expansion, the tube buffer of the T1 would be useless since the "warm signal" sound from the T1 will then be "digitalized" by the creative soundcard, therefore degrading the sound.
> 
> Why make things complicated when you can just simplify things out? Just use each of them separately. Use the T1 for music listening via headphones, then use the creative on everything else.


 


 Because the controls for the console box are much easier to use, but if there is no other way... (((


----------



## Baifern

Crap! After 40+ hours, the Amperex 6DJ8 didn't improve, I definitely need a 7308! Anybody have a spare lying around?


----------



## Eurobeat

baifern said:


> Crap! After 40+ hours, the Amperex 6DJ8 didn't improve, I definitely need a 7308! Anybody have a spare lying around?


 


 I know a site you can buy one


----------



## teb1013

baifern said:


> Crap! After 40+ hours, the Amperex 6DJ8 didn't improve, I definitely need a 7308! Anybody have a spare lying around?




I bought my Amperex 7308 from Upscale Audio. When I got it it cost $50 for Driver Grade, which is all you need with a buffer like the Aune T1. Unfortunately driver grade is up to $70 at UA now, but I love this tube. (I think they have a Siemans cheaper than that). Good luck.


----------



## SirMarc

teb1013 said:


> I bought my Amperex 7308 from Upscale Audio. When I got it it cost $50 for Driver Grade, which is all you need with a buffer like the Aune T1. Unfortunately driver grade is up to $70 at UA now, but I love this tube. (I think they have a Siemans cheaper than that). Good luck.



Yeah, my first one was 50 plus cryo treatment, my second from them was 70. Worth every penny though. I'd rather spend a few bucks more for a fully tested tube that I can send back if there's an issue


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> Yeah, my first one was 50 plus cryo treatment, my second from them was 70. Worth every penny though. I'd rather spend a few bucks more for a fully tested tube that I can send back if there's an issue


 
 I hear they are really good, but he claims that all the Amperex 7308's are the same.  One member on here claims that there are differences in them, so it's funny to see what's up...

 The Upscale guy has some special equipment to test these apparently though.

 What do you guys think?


----------



## Hansotek

eurobeat said:


> I hear they are really good, but he claims that all the Amperex 7308's are the same.  One member on here claims that there are differences in them, so it's funny to see what's up...
> 
> The Upscale guy has some special equipment to test these apparently though.
> 
> What do you guys think?


 
  
 He's saying there's no difference between the PQ, JAN and USN codes... which makes total sense. They were all made at the same time, in the same place - but stamped differently based on where they were going. Many people do not understand this.
  
 That doesn't necessarily mean there's not _a little bit _of variation from tube to tube - that's mostly what the "driver grade" is all about. He tests for triode match. The tighter the match the higher the grade (and higher the price!).
  
 On the equipment; Any legit tube seller will have a triode testing device. Since most amps will use one tube per channel, a mismatch between tubes would lead to a channel imbalance. Educated buyers want to know they are getting a good match. It's table stakes.


----------



## SirMarc

hansotek said:


> He's saying there's no difference between the PQ, JAN and USN codes... which makes total sense. They were all made at the same time, in the same place - but stamped differently based on where they were going. Many people do not understand this.
> 
> That doesn't necessarily mean there's not _a little bit_ of variation from tube to tube - that's mostly what the "driver grade" is all about. He tests for triode match. The tighter the match the higher the grade (and higher the price!).
> 
> On the equipment; Any legit tube seller will have a triode testing device. Since most amps will use one tube per channel, a mismatch between tubes would lead to a channel imbalance. Educated buyers want to know they are getting a good match. It's table stakes.



Bingo


----------



## mikoss

US made 7308's IMO are inferior sounding to Holland made E188CC's. The us Amperex tubes seem to accentuate the upper midrange, and lower treble, giving a raw feeling reminisce of the orange globe E88CC tubes. 

The holland made E188CC's have an absolutely holographic, sweet midrange, combined with a very sweet, liquid treble presentation. They sound less raw to my ears, and a more refined in comparison to the American Amperex tubes. 

The Hollands have been rebranded as Amperex/Valvo, but any with a half triangle and VR code are the beauty tubes. These are military versions of the 6922 tube; long life and better specs on the heater. 

With respect to the Siemens and Halske CCa tubes, the 1960 era round halo with grey getter sound the best to my ears... These tubes also accentuate the treble in a way that reminds me of the HD-800's. They have a lot more body in the midrange than other "neutral" sounding Siemens tubes, but the treble is the undisputed star of the show. Beautiful imaging and ambient queues. 

For my money, the only better tube in this family is the pinched waist, first/second production 6922 Holland tubes. These sound like an E188CC Miniwatt holland tube on steroids. Tonal weight, tonal balance, holographic midrange... Beautiful tubes. These allow you to hear where the CCa tubes are accentuating, and allow you to understand why details can come from every part of the musical bandwidth, not just the treble.

So while the American US Amperex tubes may sound good, I strongly believe these other tubes have them beat. It all depends on what headphones you're using, and what your preference are... I wouldn't spend any more than $120 on a pair of USN white label Amperex tubes in very good condition, myself. Also, people who say they all sound the same have probably never auditioned more than a pair or two. Pinched waist 6922 American Amperex would be my US holy grail, followed closely by USN CEP white label which only falter in their ability to resolve decay. Followed by 1960 tubes of various batches, followed by 70's oranged labeled, and ending with the 80's green labelled which pale in comparison to the older tubes. Why? I have no fukn clue. This is just what I have heard. 

As for driver grade vs other grades, I have never bought tubes from Up$cale Audio, but I believe you absolutely can distinguish between the tubes with the T1 if you're a discerning listener. There is no reason to settle for "driver grade" tubes which test lower than tubes recommended for phono stages... If the tube has noise, you will hear it.


----------



## mikoss

I would also like to point out that my tube collection was mainly built via eBay purchases. Yes, I had one pair of Tung Sol 5998 power tubes which arrived with noise, but aside from those... Never any trouble. 

I see no reason to buy from a supplier who will charge you literally at least 25% more, unless you can't find the tubes from a reputable eBay source. I've bought from suppliers myself... I spent nearly $1000 buying pinched waist tubes from Brent Jesse. Do they sound any different than the $150 pinched waist I found on eBay? Hell no. 

Just some food for thought.


----------



## Eurobeat

mikoss said:


> I would also like to point out that my tube collection was mainly built via eBay purchases. Yes, I had one pair of Tung Sol 5998 power tubes which arrived with noise, but aside from those... Never any trouble.
> 
> I see no reason to buy from a supplier who will charge you literally at least 25% more, unless you can't find the tubes from a reputable eBay source. I've bought from suppliers myself... I spent nearly $1000 buying pinched waist tubes from Brent Jesse. Do they sound any different than the $150 pinched waist I found on eBay? Hell no.
> 
> Just some food for thought.


 


 Thanks for all the info.

 So when getting an Amperex 7408's we want to look for the "Holland" ones or "Holland E188CCs" or what???


 Also, I think the reason people are willing to spend more, is because it's from a trusted source.  I've heard a lot of people getting SOL and getting sub-par tubes, as well as the quality being a mystery.

 Of course, maybe for those who know what they are doing it isn't a problem, but a lot of us are noobies, so it's hard to trust people, granted upscale could rip me off too.

 I actually asked about driver grade vs a higher grade, and someone in here said there is no difference for what we use it for, if there was, he would get a platinum grade.  I'm curious about your comments, and the grades we should be looking for?


 Any advice is appreciated for a tube nube like myself 

 Thanks!


----------



## mikoss

eurobeat said:


> Thanks for all the info.
> 
> 
> So when getting an Amperex 7408's we want to look for the "Holland" ones or "Holland E188CCs" or what???
> ...



You may try the US made tubes, which will be rated as "7308" and have a * as the factory code, or you may try the Holland tubes, which will be rated as "E188CC" and have a half triangle code. Both tubes are long life, 6922/E88CC compatible tubes, but with a military rating. 

As for being ripped off, if you are aware of what you're looking to buy, chances are, you won't be. eBay sellers try their best to be thorough, but many list any tube as a "CCa", so it is entirely up to you to decide what the make of the tube actually is. 

It's also up to you to interpret their test results, and decide the condition of the tube. This is where other sellers will try to label and separate tubes into different categories. Tubes can have strong sections that aren't closely matched, or weak sections that are closely matched... Tubes can be microphonic, or quiet. In my experience, microphonics can be a deal breaker. Matching and test results will normally dictate if pricing is a deal or not. 

As an example, a strong tube closely matched is worth full price, whereas a weak tube may not be worth buying. A microphonic tube will pick up vibrations and amplify them as noise... This is where a "driver grade" tube may pick up noise, whereas a phono stage tube would not. 

I am personally convinced that the noise floor is much more of an issue than I ever thought. Jitter results in a more compressed noise floor, as do microphonic tubes, as does a crappy power supply, as does electrical noise in general. Until you actually hear a well made DAC with a superb noise floor, you may be unaware of the influence these microphonic tubes have on your enjoyment. 

Try the Schiit Yggdrasil someday and you may understand how the ability to resolve 10 dB more than most other DACs results in absolute magic. As for eBay, just find a reputable seller who understands the tube he is selling, and posts meaningful tube readings. The readings vary from tester to tester, however they should give you a general indication of the condition of the tube. If there aren't meaningful results, ask... If the seller can't give you them, don't buy the tube.

For what it's worth, one of my favourite tubes is a Holland E188CC that brings out exceptional detail. I bought it with an American 7308 for $65 because the tubes measured only 65% on the tube tester. Both are still working after 2 years...


----------



## Eurobeat

mikoss said:


> You may try the US made tubes, which will be rated as "7308" and have a * as the factory code, or you may try the Holland tubes, which will be rated as "E188CC" and have a half triangle code. Both tubes are long life, 6922/E88CC compatible tubes, but with a military rating.
> 
> As for being ripped off, if you are aware of what you're looking to buy, chances are, you won't be. eBay sellers try their best to be thorough, but many list any tube as a "CCa", so it is entirely up to you to decide what the make of the tube actually is.
> 
> ...


 


 You post a lot of **** I have no understanding of, but thanks for the info .

 Idk what ":microphonic" tubes are, or what tests we should be looking for, and how to even know if a test is legit????


 I've heard the Yggdrasil is a great dac, but is it a tube dac??  I thought it was SS....


 So I guess I'll look for a Holland E188CC, I thought they were different tubes, but I guess not (or at least supposed to be the Amperex that everyone is gushing over..)????


 From what I see on the front page, the E188CC is the "Phillips Miniwatt" while the one above it is the Amperex 7308 so I'm confused now... ....



 I guess I should probably worry more about this if/when I get the AUNE/another tube dac/amp, but it's interesting stuff to me, and I would like to learn more, but it's a lot of stuff to learn >(


----------



## teb1013

eurobeat said:


> You post a lot of **** I have no understanding of, but thanks for the info .
> 
> Idk what ":microphonic" tubes are, or what tests we should be looking for, and how to even know if a test is legit????
> 
> ...




A microphonic tube is, as Mikoss says, a tube that picks up external vibrations, often resulting in a ringing sound, that interferes with the music. If you tap a micro phonic tube with your finger nail, it will result in a disturbing ringing sound.

Frankly, a lot of the complexities of high end tube equipment, like the Schiit Yggdrasil don't really apply to a piece of equipment like the Aune T1. I simply bought it, put in the tube it came with, listened, bought a couple of other tubes (some of which aren't too expensive) and saw what I liked. A good introduction to this is the essay at the beginning of this thread (it was updated earlier this year so it will give you a good intro to tubes you can try). I found certain tubes (including the Russian made Voskhod, which many people love) weren't to my taste. In the end I spent a bit more money than I wanted on an NOS (new old stock) Amperex 7308 (mine is from 1968) and found it perfect. I read that the so called "driver grade" tubes (which can be micro phonic with certain applications, work fine with a tube buffer like that in the Aune T1. I've had no problems at all with the cheaper driver grade tube. Others love extensive tube rolling. I have just been enjoying music with the T1 through my Sennheiser HD600s. 

Good luck in your search!


----------



## Baifern

Still waiting for my 1962 Amperex 7308  from the mail. Right now, I'm using a Tung-Sol 6BQ7A which was only a freebie that came with my GE ECC86. I wasn't expecting anything good from this tube, but I was surprised of what I heard! It sounds almost identical to my Amperex 6DJ8 OG!
  
 6BQ7A's are usually very cheap and always available on the auction site. I've seen $5 with shipping included and are NOS. For this price range and availability, you can't go wrong with this one.

 Maybe it's too early to give an opinion for this tube as I've only used it for less than 10 hours. It might still improve for few more hours.
  
 Is there anyone here who have also tried using a 6BQ7A? Want to hear your thoughts about this one..


----------



## Baifern

Even after reading about ECC85's issues with the T1, I still went ahead and ordered a GE 6AQ8/ECC85 Germany to try it out. I also got a distorted sound just like most of you here. Tried to lower the Windows mixer volume and player's volume, 90% of distortion was gone, but the volume is not loud enough for me.
  
 Aside from that remedy, do guys have any solution for this issue? Or is the ECC85 really not compatible with the T1?
  
 Thanks!


----------



## penmarker

ECC85 isn't supported by the T1. It has the same pins but they do different things. Unplug immediately. Check the first page for a list of compatible tubes:
  
 Q: What types of tubes will work with the Aune T1?
*A: 6DJ8, ECC88, 6922, E88CC, 7308, 6N23P, 6N27P, 6N11, 6N1P, 7DJ8, PCC88, ECC189, 6ES8, **E188CC, ECC86, 6GM8, PCC189, 7ES8, Cca, CV2492, CV10320, CV5231, CV5354, CV5358, M3624*


----------



## Baifern

But how come there were some members who had great results with the ECC85 if it's not supported? Does the MK2 makes a difference? Cause I believe those who have reported success with ECC85 are using the MK1.


----------



## Baifern

That list of tubes needs to be updated as well. I've been using a 6BQ7A for few days now with no issues.


----------



## joeq70

Hey guys I tossed that FAQ onto the first post using the informationn I had available at the time. 

If something needs updated I will gladly do so!


----------



## Mannythebearpig

Hey guys been looking at this amp on Ebay for my Aune http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Amperex-PQ-Gold-Pin-7308-E188CC-Vacuum-Tube-TV7-D-U-Tested-Very-Strong-/311476074114?hash=item48856bb682:g:VX8AAOSwT5tWNSVH&rmvSB=true
  
 I'm not sure what specs to look for from a used tube amp think its worth the 70 bucks?


----------



## Baifern

I just won in an auction for an Amperex 7308 a few days ago, around $35 I believe plus shipping. So if I were you, I'll be patient to wait for an auction type listing. Or find something cheaper than that.

 Like this one:
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-7308-USA-E188CC-VR5-VINTAGE-1967-TEST-NOS-MINTY-6922-/331718545531?hash=item4d3bf7507b:g:aekAAOSwiwVWRA0u


----------



## Mannythebearpig

Mmmmmk thanks a lot i'll pull the trigger on it!


----------



## SirMarc

baifern said:


> I just won in an auction for an Amperex 7308 a few days ago, around $35 I believe plus shipping. So if I were you, I'll be patient to wait for an auction type listing. Or find something cheaper than that.
> 
> 
> Like this one:
> ...



Let me know what you think once you burn it in for 20-40 hours


----------



## Baifern

sirmarc said:


> Let me know what you think once you burn it in for 20-40 hours


 
 Sure! Hopefully, this 7308 will end my journey in searching for the right tube.
  
 I also have a Voshkod 6N23P and Amperex ECC189 coming up. I can't rely too much on tube reviews here as I'm not listening via HP. I figured the only way for me to find the sound I'm looking for is to actually try different kinds of tube. I've had enough of 6DJ8's so it's time to try other variants.
  
 I've tried a 1969 6DJ8 OG, 1965 Siemens/Halske 6DJ8, 1960s Sylvania 6DJ8 USA, 1966 GE ECC86 Holland, and GE ECC86 Germany, but their difference were very minor even after 20+ hours of burn in.
  
 I was surprised to hear that out of all of those, the freebie Tung-Sol 6BQ7A USA sounded better for my system.

 For now, I will continue burning in the 1965 Siemens/Halske 6DJ8. Maybe 20+ hours is not enough..
  
 Too bad, my GE ECC85 Germany distorts the T1 so I couldn't use it.


----------



## SirMarc

I do probably half my listening with speakers, and the 7308 is my favorite


----------



## Baifern

Yeah, and based on many members here who have raved about the Amperex 7308, made me purchase one. Have you tried an ECC189 / 6ES8 on your system?


----------



## SirMarc

Nope. With my system I really like the sound of the 7308. Most of my budget goes towards vinyl, so when i found a sound I liked I stuck with it


----------



## Baifern

My Amperex 7308 just arrived. Marking says "62-17," but when I looked closely, I can read:

 VR3
 *1J
  
 The asterisk means New York right? Then "1" means 1961? "J" Would be October.
  
 If my understanding is correct, what does the "62-17" means?


----------



## Baifern

Also, this is not a NOS tube, seller rated this at 80/80. How many hours still left on this tube?


----------



## Baifern

Now, I have mixed impressions on the Amperex 7308. While I could hear improvements compared to all the tubes I tested, the mids/vocals are slightly laid back and not that forward sounding. It sounds like the vocalist was placed at the same place where the drummer is. I'm not sure if this will improve in the next 10+ hours as this is not a NOS tube. Other than that, this is the tube that might end my journey to tube rolling. A bit more clearer than the 1965 Siemens Halske (RCA) 6DJ8 Germany, smoother vocals, but less pronounced, highs are accurate and not fatiguing, clear and open sound stage that puts you inside the concert hall or a recording studio. You can easily tell the bass guitar is on the left, vocalist on the middle, lead guitar on the right, and drums on the back.
  
 For the price of $35, which I won at the auction site, this is a great sounding tube. But if you buy this in major online tube re-sellers, it'll run you $65 - $90. Is it worth the extra money? For me, at $35, yes, it's worth every dollar extra. In comparison to the previous 6DJ8's that I bought for $5-10, those are the real bang for a buck deal! My favorite is the 1965 Siemens Halske (RCA) 6DJ8 Germany which I bought for $5, and the Tung-Sol 6BQ7A USA which was a freebie together with the other tubes I bought.
  
 For those of you who are planning to buy the T1, you can only rely on the tube reviews here if you have the same HP they're using, otherwise, there's really no other way to tell if a tube is the right one for you without actually trying it. In my case, I'm using the T1 as a DAC only and not an HP amp. I listen via loudspeakers (KEF 104/2) driven by a vintage Yamaha CA-1010 and it's really a different experience compared to a HP.


----------



## SirMarc

baifern said:


> My Amperex 7308 just arrived. Marking says "62-17," but when I looked closely, I can read:
> 
> 
> VR3
> ...



If I'm remembering correctly, it means the 17th week of 1962


----------



## rwpritchett

baifern said:


> My Amperex 7308 just arrived. Marking says "62-17," but when I looked closely, I can read:
> 
> 
> VR3
> ...




*1J: If your 7308 has a large o-getter (and it looks like it does from your picture), then the 1 in the date code probably means 1971, not 1961. The early to mid 60's tubes have small o-getters IIRC. So your tube is most likely a USA made 1971 tube made in October. I could be wrong though.

I don't know what the 62-17 means.


----------



## Baifern

rwpritchett said:


> *1J: If your 7308 has a large o-getter (and it looks like it does from your picture), then the 1 in the date code probably means 1971, not 1961. The early to mid 60's tubes have small o-getters IIRC. So your tube is most likely a USA made 1971 tube made in October. I could be wrong though.
> 
> I don't know what the 62-17 means.


 
  
 I thought the white label 7308 were made in the 60s and the green and orange labels were from 70s.
  
 Mine is a white label. Just looked pinkish on the picture because of the T1 led and ambient lighting.
  
 Thanks!


----------



## rwpritchett

Ok, my mistake. I assumed the picture was showing orange labeling but the light makes it look that way, and now that I think about it Amperex was transitioning to dimple disc getters in the early 70's. It is most likely a 1961 tube.

BTW, whose idea was it to include only one number for the year on these things?


----------



## Baifern

Here's the actual tube in normal lighting:
  

  
 Most 7308's I see have a VR5 code, where mine is a VR3?
  
 Does this indicate something?
  
 Edit: Vocals are starting to open! I'm loving this tube!


----------



## rwpritchett

From what I've read, it's similar to a rev # the tube. VR0 and VR1 from the late 50's have D getters. VR3 and VR5 came later with halos. I think they went up to VR9 eventually.


----------



## Baifern

rwpritchett said:


> From what I've read, it's similar to a rev # the tube. VR0 and VR1 from the late 50's have D getters. VR3 and VR5 came later with halos. I think they went up to VR9 eventually.


 
  
 Okay, so that verifies that my tube is from the early 60s then.
  
 I appreciate the info.
  
 Now, let me play some music and enjoy this tube!


----------



## Baifern

Amperex ECC189 6ES8 "D" Getter arrived today. Bought this for $16 and I believe this is from the late 50's.
  
 Check photos below for the date code:
  

  

  



 ?X0
 Delta 8E

 Can't read the character before the "X0," Delta 8E means from 1958?
  
 I've seen some Amperex ECC189 from early 60's that has the more modern box and O getter.
  
 Does the "D" getter makes this a late 50's tube?
  
 Thanks guys!
  
 Oh, and sound quality of this tube is very nice! Very similar to Amperex 7308, but a little bit more warm. Details and sound stage are the same. This is a NOS tube and will post more impressions after 40+ hours.


----------



## jipan

I think my headphone jack broke or something because it didn't gave any sound on left side. When I push my headphone jack half way, there is sound from left side, but no sound on right side. Pushed all the way, the left side is silent.

What to do? Did I need to change the headphone jack?
I have zero skill with electronics, I think I shall sent it to electronic repair man....


----------



## penmarker

Do you use a quarter inch converter with a headphone with mic?


----------



## jipan

I did. I use the one which came with my Senn HD600. I also tried one from Goldring DR150 and got similar result.
Both headphones sounded fine when connected to my phone and FiiO E10 (without converter ofc).


EDIT: sorry, I misread your post. No, both converter and headphones are non mic version.


----------



## penmarker

Ah okay, just a question because I've had bad experiences with headphones with mic. They got a TRRS jack instead of the usual TRS.


----------



## Jase0n

Can anyone comment regarding the durability/reliablity of the Aune T1? I've been seeing quite a few complains around the net regarding poor build quality with inputs becoming loose and failing over time etc; any truth to that or is it just misuse/abuse of the product?
  
 Cheers.


----------



## penmarker

I bought mine used locally and it had channel imbalance in the DAC section. Prev owner said it had no problems. I've had it repaired with the MK2 board, but aside from that my unit is built like a tank.


----------



## Baifern

jase0n said:


> Can anyone comment regarding the durability/reliablity of the Aune T1? I've been seeing quite a few complains around the net regarding poor build quality with inputs becoming loose and failing over time etc; any truth to that or is it just misuse/abuse of the product?
> 
> Cheers.


 
  
 I bought my MK2 used on craigslist and I was skeptical to get the MK2 version since some of the members here reported quality issues. Luckily, mine was okay, so far so good. The seller didn't mention how long he have been using the unit before he decided to sell it to me.
  
 As for durability, I'd say Aune did a great job on the T1. I change tubes very frequently when I receive a new one to compare how it sounds to other tubes that I have. I might get a socket saver if I'll continue the tube rolling madness, but even after many times of pulling out and putting in a new tube (at least 50 times since I owned the T1 three weeks ago), the socket is still very tight and strong. This also required me to turn off the unit every time I change tubes, so the power switch was also built very well.
  
 I use the T1 mainly on my living room as a DAC to my HTPC, but when it's time to go to bed, I bring it with me to my bedroom and usually leave it on playing overnight via headphones to burn in a new tube. Then I will bring it back to the living room the next day and start playing music again!
  
 Overall, I'd say the T1 is a very reliable piece of equipment. Considering how I use it and not knowing how much usage did the previous owner put into it.


----------



## Jase0n

Thanks for your input it's greatly appreciated.
  
 Is there any advantage to getting the Mk2 version or is the Mk1 considered the one to go to for better overall build etc?


----------



## joeq70

jase0n said:


> Can anyone comment regarding the durability/reliablity of the Aune T1? I've been seeing quite a few complains around the net regarding poor build quality with inputs becoming loose and failing over time etc; any truth to that or is it just misuse/abuse of the product?
> 
> Cheers.



I'd also like to chime in here that I've used my T1 mk1 almost every day for over three years now and have had zero issues


----------



## Hixs

I've had my MK2 since May 2014. 
  
 *The stock tube died a month or so a go (well, still works but the right earphone receives a lot of distortion). Not replaced it yet.
  
 *I use to have to pull the usb out then put it back in for the PC to reconize the unit. This fixed itself one day when I rebooted the PC with the Aune plugged in. Now the PC sees it with no issue.
  
 Build quality of the actual unit is superb.
  
 Bought mine from Amazon from a UK seller.


----------



## soziblewuup

Hi all. 
  
 Would the MK2 be a reasonable upgrade on a FiiO EK10? 
  
 I'd primarily be using it as a DAC with: 
  
 Macbook Pro
 Pioneer A-676
 BK XXLS400
 PMC DB1+
  
 But will also be using the headphone amp with Philips Fidelio X1's. 
  
 Any advice is weclome. I quite like the idea of collecting Tube's as well. Cue new obsession.


----------



## Hixs

Upgrade, nah. More of a 'side way' step into valve amps.
  
 The Aune is good for the money but don't buy into the hype posted by the fanatics. It's still just a cheap desktop amp/dac. A lot of posters think it's the best thing since slice bread and think they can tell the difference between each tube they've rolled...this is typical headfi nonsense.
  
 Tubes do make a difference, but the difference isn't as vast as some like to make it out to be. Most of this is people hearing what they want to hear.


----------



## SirMarc

Long story short, the dac is quality, the amp is ok at best. The good thing about it is you can use both while you save up for a better amp...


----------



## soziblewuup

hixs said:


> Upgrade, nah. More of a 'side way' step into valve amps.
> 
> The Aune is good for the money but don't buy into the hype posted by the fanatics. It's still just a cheap desktop amp/dac. A lot of posters think it's the best thing since slice bread and think they can tell the difference between each tube they've rolled...this is typical headfi nonsense.
> 
> Tubes do make a difference, but the difference isn't as vast as some like to make it out to be. Most of this is people hearing what they want to hear.


 
  


sirmarc said:


> Long story short, the dac is quality, the amp is ok at best. The good thing about it is you can use both while you save up for a better amp...


 
  
  
 Thanks both. I think I'm going to take a punt and see for myself. Good to hear that the DAC is decent, as that will be it's primary use. 
  
 Ay ideas on where to get Amperex 7308's in the UK? I attempted to checkout with UpscaleAudio in the US, but the shipping Country field was restricted to US or Canada. Kinda odd as they mention International shipping in their T&C's


----------



## Hixs

I'd start cheaper if I was you...just in case. Maybe a Voskhod Rocket. Can be had for as little as a tenner on ebay.


----------



## soziblewuup

Never mind. I just bought one off Ebay from the US with reasonable shipping. Looking forward to the combo .


----------



## Hixs

Link? Not a massive fan of ebay (it's a free market for scammers these days), so been putting off buying another tube for a while.
  
 I'll grab a pair if the price is right.


----------



## soziblewuup

hixs said:


> Link? Not a massive fan of ebay (it's a free market for scammers these days), so been putting off buying another tube for a while.
> 
> I'll grab a pair if the price is right.


 
  
 I used this guy. Has good ratings. 9641 feedback points at 99.8% so I'd say a scammer can't really build that up. 
  
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-matched-1961-65-USA-Amperex-PQ-7308-E188CC-tubes-TV7B-tested-STRONG-/361442721926?hash=item5427aa4086:g:w~kAAOSwp5JWYIr5
  
 I bought a single. But he also sells matched pairs.


----------



## Baifern

hixs said:


> Upgrade, nah. More of a 'side way' step into valve amps.
> 
> The Aune is good for the money but don't buy into the hype posted by the fanatics. It's still just a cheap desktop amp/dac. A lot of posters think it's the best thing since slice bread and think they can tell the difference between each tube they've rolled...this is typical headfi nonsense.
> 
> Tubes do make a difference, but the difference isn't as vast as some like to make it out to be. Most of this is people hearing what they want to hear.


 
  
soziblewuup like me, will be using the T1 primarily as a DAC with an integrated amp driving a pair of loudspeakers. It's a totally different experience compared to listening via headphones. In my case, I can hear big difference between the stock 6922EH tube and an Amperex 7308; same thing with a $3 Tung-Sol 6BQ7A and a Voshkod 6N23P.
  
  


soziblewuup said:


> Hi all.
> 
> Would the MK2 be a reasonable upgrade on a FiiO EK10?
> 
> ...


 
  
 I don't own a FiiO E10K, so I'm not sure if it'll be a reasonable upgrade for you. Are you also using it as a DAC for your Pioneer A-676?
  
 Try the stock tube first that comes with the T1 for few days. After 30-40+ hours of usage, put the 7308 and you'd hear the difference. If the 7308 doesn't sound good to you, try a cheaper tube. In my case, I've tried several variants of 6DJ8's. One of the seller I bought from included a Tung-Sol 6BQ7A for free. I wasn't expecting anything good from it since it's a cheap tube, but I was surprised how it performed. It was slightly better than my Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globe. So, give that tube a try and let us know what you think.


----------



## soziblewuup

baifern said:


> I don't own a FiiO E10K, so I'm not sure if it'll be a reasonable upgrade for you. Are you also using it as a DAC for your Pioneer A-676?
> 
> Try the stock tube first that comes with the T1 for few days. After 30-40+ hours of usage, put the 7308 and you'd hear the difference. If the 7308 doesn't sound good to you, try a cheaper tube. In my case, I've tried several variants of 6DJ8's. One of the seller I bought from included a Tung-Sol 6BQ7A for free. I wasn't expecting anything good from it since it's a cheap tube, but I was surprised how it performed. It was slightly better than my Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globe. So, give that tube a try and let us know what you think.


 
  
 Yes that's correct. I feel currently the DAC is the weakest link in the system. I'm sure it's pretty unorthodox to pair PMC speakers with budget FiiO DACs, but budget dictates. 
  
 Good advice, thanks. I think listening to the stock tube and then the Amperex will give me a nice reference point for future purchases as well. 
  
 The E10K is certainly an improvement over the on-board Mac Audio. Tightens the bass up nicely but is just a tad thin for me. I was looking for a slightly fuller, possibly warmer, sound. Based on the reviews I thought the T1 / Amperex combo might do the trick. One thing I am a little worried about is what I've heard about recessed vocals with the 7308. I'm not sure if I will like that. I'm more a fan of vocals cutting through and being upfront. 
  
 Have you experienced recessed vocals with the 7308?


----------



## Baifern

soziblewuup said:


> Yes that's correct. I feel currently the DAC is the weakest link in the system. I'm sure it's pretty unorthodox to pair PMC speakers with budget FiiO DACs, but budget dictates.
> 
> Good advice, thanks. I think listening to the stock tube and then the Amperex will give me a nice reference point for future purchases as well.
> 
> ...


 
 At first few hours yes, but after 5+ hours, the 7308 mids/vocals started to open up. It was airy, clear, and wide sound stage, details are there, bass is accurate; a great listening experience overall. 
  
 Same reason why I bought the T1. I thought I was not hearing what I supposed to be hearing on my vintage Yamaha CA-1010 and KEF 104/2 with my older soundcard. The first time I heard the T1 with the 6922EH stock tube, I was thrilled to hear the difference! Everything just sounded better! 
  
 You can read my story a few pages back.


----------



## soziblewuup

baifern said:


> At first few hours yes, but after 5+ hours, the 7308 mids/vocals started to open up. It was airy, clear, and wide sound stage, details are there, bass is accurate; a great listening experience overall.
> 
> Same reason why I bought the T1. I thought I was not hearing what I supposed to be hearing on my vintage Yamaha CA-1010 and KEF 104/2 with my older soundcard. The first time I heard the T1 with the 6922EH stock tube, I was thrilled to hear the difference! Everything just sounded better!
> 
> You can read my story a few pages back.


 
  
 Had a read of your earlier post. Good to hear they opened up after a while. I suppose I could just plug my DAC in overnight with the 7308 and play some music through headphones. I'd imagine that should do the trick before I do any critical listening. 
  
 Same for me with the On-Board Mac Audio (which is actually pretty good) and the FiiO E10K. The tighter bass changed everything for me. Looking for that next step now. I'll probably post back here with my findings / comparison with E10K when I get everything.


----------



## Baifern

> I suppose I could just plug my DAC in overnight with the 7308 and play some music through headphones. I'd imagine that should do the trick before I do any critical listening.


 
  
 Exactly the same thing I do whenever I receive a new tube.
  
 I'll wait for your updates.


----------



## Baifern

I bought a tube from the auction site. Seller advertised this as "6N1P-EV." It has a writing that is almost impossible to see, I had to put a flashlight behind the tube to see what's written.
  
 It says: "ECC88 MADE IN USSR"
  
 Then the more clearer writing says "OTK1,"
  
 And "V7" which looked like it was hand written only.
  
 I want to buy another tube like this, so I searched for a similar tube, but I couldn't find a "ECC88 MADE IN USSR" label, what I found was "6DJ8 MADE IN USSR" as shown on the last photo.
  
 I know 6N1P and ECC88 are completely compatible with each other, I just want to make sure I'm getting the exact same tube again.
  

  

  

  
 I can only find tubes like this one:


----------



## soziblewuup

To my surprise I had a package arrive today. The T1 was here and earlier than expected.
  
 After all this talk in the last couple of days I was fairly excited to get it up and running.
  
 Until I found out it was dead on arrival of course. Plugged it in, switched it on, plugged in the USB, and nothing. 
  

  
  
 The power cable also looks like it's corroding. It's flakey and sticky. Most probably the source of the issue. 
  
  

  
  
 Anyhow back it goes. Hopefully I get a replacement in a reasonable timeframe. I can imagine the 7308 will arrive from the USA quicker than I get a replacement.


----------



## Baifern

Crap! Where did you buy that from? Used I presume? Have you tried cleaning the power supply contacts before sending it back?


----------



## soziblewuup

Brand new off Amazon would you believe! 
  
 No I haven't actually, I'll give that a go now.


----------



## soziblewuup

I say that. It's advertised as "new". 


baifern said:


> Crap! Where did you buy that from? Used I presume? Have you tried cleaning the power supply contacts before sending it back?


 
  
 No luck unfortunately. The power pack is getting slightly warm, but nothing from the T1. It's either that end or the T1 itself.


----------



## Baifern

That sucks! Does the packaging looks new to you? Cables tied up neatly? Otherwise, I'd say that's a returned faulty unit they sent you. Do you mind posting the seller you bought it from so future T1 buyers would be aware of?


----------



## soziblewuup

baifern said:


> That sucks! Does the packaging looks new to you? Cables tied up neatly? Otherwise, I'd say that's a returned faulty unit they sent you. Do you mind posting the seller you bought it from so future T1 buyers would be aware of?


 
  
 Yes it actually looked brand new. Everything was perfectly in place. 
  
 Just managed to get it working for 20 seconds. I went along the wire, between the pin connector and the power pack, slowly pressing on each part of the wire. Came on for 20 seconds. I then switched it off and tried turning it back on to no avail. Pressing on the wire now has no effect. 
  
 I can't really figure out why the unit looks in great condition, all the components look brand new, yet the power pack / cable looks like it's been sitting in a warehouse for 10 years. 
  
 Anyhow, the seller is EUWHOLESALE. It appears to be the only place that sells it here in the UK. There's numerous for sale on amazon, but all link back to that company; including the official Aune listing. As a wholesaler, I would imagine they received it in this condition and wouldn't have checked the product. 
  
 Lets hope they can send me a working one pretty swiftly, so I can confirm they aren't a total waste of time.


----------



## Baifern

I know how you feel, and the hardest part of that is the waiting time for you to get your product back and hoping it's a working one. It's definitely the power supply at fault here. If it's a more common power supply, I'd just improvise one, but this 5-pin din connector of the T1 sucks!
  
 Keep us posted.


----------



## Ugly Tuco

Maybe you bought tubes produced for export. As far as i know on local market this tube called 6Н23П (in russian), OTK1 means qaulity contol.


----------



## Ugly Tuco

baifern said:


> I bought a tube from the auction site. Seller advertised this as "6N1P-EV." It has a writing that is almost impossible to see, I had to put a flashlight behind the tube to see what's written.
> 
> It says: "ECC88 MADE IN USSR"
> 
> ...


 
  
 Maybe you bought tubes produced for export. As far as i know on local market this tube called 6Н23П (in russian), OTK1 means qaulity contol.  Sorry for double post.


----------



## Baifern

I see, thanks for the info Ugly Tuco.


----------



## Ugly Tuco

baifern said:


> I see, thanks for the info Ugly Taco.


 
  
 You are welcome. Tuco looks better to my eyes.


----------



## Baifern

Geez! My apologies for that. My bad.


----------



## Ugly Tuco

baifern said:


> Geez! My apologies for that. My bad.


 
  
 That was a joke, simply i don`t like smiles and other icons. I`m going to purchase some tubes and therefore made some research on my local market so I didn`t see the tube like that and find it very interesting.


----------



## Baifern

Yeah, and a missing date code makes it more harder to identify.

I'll just buy another one with a similar physical construction and hope it's a same sounding tube.


----------



## Ugly Tuco

Some tubes on russian market don`t have a package so can find info only on the tube.


----------



## soziblewuup

Little update on the whole Dead on Arrival situation. 
  
 The seller has actually been very good about it. They sent me the pre-paid return postage label within the hour, and confirmed they're sending me a new one today. 
  
 I think EUWHOLESALE have actually been pretty good about the situation. Probably bad luck. They were very apologetic.


----------



## joeq70

soziblewuup said:


> Little update on the whole Dead on Arrival situation.
> 
> The seller has actually been very good about it. They sent me the pre-paid return postage label within the hour, and confirmed they're sending me a new one today.
> 
> I think EUWHOLESALE have actually been pretty good about the situation. Probably bad luck. They were very apologetic.



Glad to hear it!


----------



## Ugly Tuco

Just connect my brand new Aune T1 MKII to computer and my first impression is absolutely positive. The decision to purchase was based on this thread so I want to say thanks to the starter of the thread. Next step is purchasing some old SU tubes.


----------



## Ugly Tuco

Could somebody advise me the gain settings for SENNHEISER HD 280 PRO impedance 64 Om. SPL 102dB? At that moment i use the default gain settings.


----------



## zoneykid

ugly tuco said:


> Could somebody advise me the gain settings for SENNHEISER HD 280 PRO impedance 64 Om. SPL 102dB? At that moment i use the default gain settings.


 
 They seem fine with higher gain to me? Not sure what you're asking as you could just switch the gain and try for yourself, they won't blow up or anything.


----------



## mayorblurps

Hey guys. So I apologize first if somewhere in this thread another person experienced this and found a solution. So far I can't find anything by searching the thread since it's such an odd problem with no common way to describe it... 

I've had the T1 mk1 for a year and a half, stock EH tube, used it maybe a couple days a week for a couple hours, so not a ton of use. All of a sudden when I plug in any headphones the sound that comes out is something I can only describe as like an evil robot/devil voice. It's like taking whatever I'm listening to and putting it through a voice changer. I did all the troubleshooting I could think of... It's my only tube related audio gear so I can't check if it's the tube (and also wouldn't really know what a bad tube might sound like). No issues with my computer recognizing it, drivers are fine. Has anyone else heard of a similar issue with the T1? So frustrating because I love this little DAC/amp and now can't even listen to my new Fostex TH-X00 through it 

Any advice or suggestions are much appreciated!


----------



## penmarker

Just in case you haven't done it yet - Shut down both your computer and Aune T1 and disconnect from the power plugs. Then turn on the Aune T1 first, then the computer.
Maybe do the same thing but this time change USB ports when you shut both down.
Use the RCA in, monitor with headphones to check if its the amp section.
Use the RCA out, monitor with speakers/another headphone amp to check if its the DAC section.

If the amp section, bad news, you need to repair it (I doubt its amp section).
If the DAC section, you could try changing tubes first. If problem persists, its the DAC board.

I had a bad DAC section with obvious channel imbalance but after swapping it with a new one problem went away.

I don't know, just throwing out ideas.


----------



## Eurobeat

I'm curious if anyone here would recommend the Aune with a Fidelio X2?

 I'm about to grab oine on Amazon, and figured I would grab the DAC as well.  Sadly it's 10-20$ more than it was a few months ago, but still seemsl ike a good idea.


 Just to make sure there is only the 96khz version, and no 192khz version riht?


 IF the Fidelio goes well with it, I wonder if anyone has any recommendations for tubes for me.  I lke Energetic music, that's engaging and bight, but not harsh..  I like soundstage as well.

 Should I go to Upstart and grab a couple of tubes or...?  SOme people also mentioned Ebay, but I'm not sure if I should trust that or not.

 Also, some people said we only need driver grade, while others said we might ntoice the difference between driver and platinum grade, so we should get the best grade possible...

 Thoughts/


 Thanks!!


----------



## Ugly Tuco

zoneykid said:


> They seem fine with higher gain to me? Not sure what you're asking as you could just switch the gain and try for yourself, they won't blow up or anything.


 
  
 Thank You for the feedback. Select switches to 10DB position and haven`t heard any noticeable changes, so I need tube rolling and try another headphones.


----------



## soziblewuup

eurobeat said:


> I'm curious if anyone here would recommend the Aune with a Fidelio X2?
> 
> I'm about to grab oine on Amazon, and figured I would grab the DAC as well.  Sadly it's 10-20$ more than it was a few months ago, but still seemsl ike a good idea.
> 
> ...


 
  
 I have Fidelio X2's and an Aune. Unfortunately the Tube that comes with it isn't anything special. I actually preferred using my FiiO E10K to the stock tube. I've got an Amperex 7308 being delivered soon. General consensus seems to be this is one of the best tubes you can get.
  
 It may not come for a while, however, as it's being shipped from the US to the UK. I can let you know how it sounds.


----------



## Hansotek

eurobeat said:


> I'm curious if anyone here would recommend the Aune with a Fidelio X2?
> 
> 
> I'm about to grab oine on Amazon, and figured I would grab the DAC as well.  Sadly it's 10-20$ more than it was a few months ago, but still seemsl ike a good idea.
> ...




The X2 and T1 aren't going to pair very well the T1's impedance is 10 ohms and the X2 is 30 ohms. That's a damping factor of 3... You'll want a damping factor of 8 or higher to have proper bass control in your headphone. 

In other words, you'll want to pair the X2 with and amp whith an output impedance of 3.75 ohms or less.

Or pair the T1 with a headphone with an input impedance of 80 ohms or more.


----------



## soziblewuup

hansotek said:


> The X2 and T1 aren't going to pair very well the T1's impedance is 10 ohms and the X2 is 30 ohms. That's a damping factor of 3... You'll want a damping factor of 8 or higher to have proper bass control in your headphone.
> 
> In other words, you'll want to pair the X2 with and amp whith an output impedance of 3.75 ohms or less.
> 
> Or pair the T1 with a headphone with an input impedance of 80 ohms or more.


 
  
 That would probably explain my experience when giving it a quick trial. 
  
 I'm using the T1 as a DAC rather than a headphone amp so it's not an issue for me personally. 
  
 Hansotek I'd look into a FiiO E10K sounds great with my X2's!


----------



## Eurobeat

hansotek said:


> The X2 and T1 aren't going to pair very well the T1's impedance is 10 ohms and the X2 is 30 ohms. That's a damping factor of 3... You'll want a damping factor of 8 or higher to have proper bass control in your headphone.
> 
> In other words, you'll want to pair the X2 with and amp whith an output impedance of 3.75 ohms or less.
> 
> Or pair the T1 with a headphone with an input impedance of 80 ohms or more.


 


 Thanks .  I've heard the combo done, but I guess it's not that good....  

 I heard that the amp's impedance is what matters, so couldn't I use the Tube DAC, with a better amp, and it should all work, or....?


----------



## Hansotek

eurobeat said:


> Thanks .  I've heard the combo done, but I guess it's not that good....
> 
> I heard that the amp's impedance is what matters, so couldn't I use the Tube DAC, with a better amp, and it should all work, or....?


 
  
 Yes. You can absolutely use the DAC with a different, lower impedance amp.


----------



## Eurobeat

hansotek said:


> Yes. You can absolutely use the DAC with a different, lower impedance amp.


 


 Alrighty .  I didn't know which device had the impedance issue, but I assumed it was all devices....  Someone was talking about impedance via cables, so I figured that there could be issues with connections causing problems and whatnot, and maybe certain more expensive cables were better impedance, which is why they are more expensive, and why some users don't notice "a difference?"


 So an AMP will have the impedance... not the DAC?


 I wanted to originally hook it up to my Sound Blaster, but then I realized there is no damn line outs, and a bunch of line ins....


 So I guess it doesn't matter since the amp/dac are going to be on it's own, so I guess I could get the Aune then?


 The question is... Would it be worth it?  I don't know anything about Tubes, but from the talks here they sound amazing...


 I am getting the Fidelio X2's, so not sure if the tubes would be too "warm?"  I heard once there are bright and warm tube amps, and you need to pick the right one...; however I saw a video which was basically talking down tubes, and they were saying they were just warm... Granted these 2 guys don't really seem that knowledgeable, and if they are(or the one audio guy), they don't really present good arguments...

 They spoke about "Coloring" the music, but that sounds like some audiophile purity ****, which they constantly try to talk down "purist/elitist Audiophiles" while being elitist themselves.....


 So the questions are....

 1.  Should I get this DAC for the X2's, or should I look somewhere else?  I find this is a cheap intro to tubes, but I'm new to all this gear in general, so I'm not sure if this is the best start, or what, but it sounds great!



 2.  If I got this DAC....


 a.  What kind of amp should I get for the X2?

 b.  Would it be okay to get an SS amp for it, or should I get another Tube Amp?  It seems the Aune is unique, because it's a "Tube DAC," but not sure if it needs a tube amp with it or what the "preferred setup"wold be...  Would a tube amp and a SS DAC be better...?


 c.  I hear the Aune gets very hot....  Should I setup some sort of fan for it, or should I put some vents into the case?

 d.  I see there is a 96 and a 192khz Aune, but people say there is only the 96...  I also saw in that video that they were saying there is no audible difference between the 2, which I'm not too sure about....

 e.  I've seen people change the capacitors and such on this...  It is worth it to mess around?  One thread I saw mentioned he fried 2-3 of these before getting it right....


 f.  What kind of tubes should I get?  I really am interested in one of those Amperex 7803's, but I hear mixed opinions on these tubes....

 One person said that the grade doesn't matter, while another said the grade will matter with I believe "Microphonics," so getting a higher grade is always worth it?

 I also was looking at Upstart, and the 2nd user seemed to dislike them due to higher prices, but they seem to know what they are talking about.  With that, Upstart claims that all of the Amperex are the same, while user #2 claimed that the label is what matters... I'll have to check out what the comments were, but it was a fewe pages back I guess (not sure if you were the one I spoke to ).

 The Gold Lion and the Bungle/Rocket Boy sounded good too...


 I guess it depends on my music, and what I like.


 I like music that is more fun, engaging, energetic, exciting, and makes you want to move.

 "Eurobeat" is big in the car/racing scene in Japan, so it's a lot of FAST Adrenaline pumping music!


----------



## SirMarc

Sounds like a gold lion and an Asgard 2 would make you a happy man


----------



## Eurobeat

Quote: 





sirmarc said:


> Sounds like a gold lion and an Asgard 2 would make you a happy man


 
 Hmm thanks.

 Why would I want an Asgard 2, and why just the Gold Lion?  YOu don't think one of the Amperex tubes or one of the Russian tubes would work well?  I'm going to check out the descriptions and post back 



 I also edited these questions in




 ​


> c.  I hear the Aune gets very hot....  Should I setup some sort of fan for it, or should I put some vents into the case?
> 
> d.  I see there is a 96 and a 192khz Aune, but people say there is only the 96...  I also saw in that video that they were saying there is no audible difference between the 2, which I'm not too sure about....
> 
> e.  I've seen people change the capacitors and such on this...  It is worth it to mess around?  One thread I saw mentioned he fried 2-3 of these before getting it right....


 


 Thoughts?


 Thanks!!


----------



## SirMarc

The Asgard 2 is a very nice sounding, but not too expensive amp, and from your description of the sound you like, the gold lion should fit the bill. I personally prefer the 7308, but it has a mellower sound than the gold lion


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> The Asgard 2 is a very nice sounding, but not too expensive amp, and from your description of the sound you like, the gold lion should fit the bill. I personally prefer the 7308, but it has a mellower sound than the gold lion


 


 Hmm thanks.  So why the Asgard over the Magni or Vali 2?


 I was looking at the first page and see these


  


> *****TUBE IMPRESSIONS*****
> 
> *Genalex Gold Lion E88CC:*
> Given some time with the Genalex and comparing it to my precious Voskhod, I have to say I’m quite impressed and that I think I’ve found a new favorite tube. The Genalex has many of the qualities of the Voskhod I like, such as intimate mids and vocals, but the Genalex is able to deliver this to me with more clarity and soundstage. The extra clarity does make the T1 sound more digital and less analog than the Voskhod, but I still think it is ultimately a superior sound. At first, I thought the Genalex had punchier bass, but after adjusting to the sound, I realized I was mistaken and that the Voskhod was more tactile in this respect.  Then, I thought perhaps a gain adjustment would make a difference, and lo and behold, +8 did just the trick in bringing the Genalex bass up to where I wanted it. Good times!
> ...


 


 The Gold Lion sounds great, but the russians seem nice too.  The Rocket Logo being warm not too sure if that hits my bill or not.  It sounds like out of the 3, the Gold Lion fits the bill.


 I'm not sure if there are others I will like better though?  I'm just going by what I see...


 I feel like I should contact Upstart and get his professional opinion and then come back here and cross check .  Or would there be a better thread to post tube questions, or would the tube question vary with equipment?


 I am interested in the Amperex because I hear the soundstage is amazing and I hear talks of "holographic" which sounds interesting...


 Not too sure though... the Holland E188C also sounds great.  One user said he loved it more than the Amperex, and I think the first poster said something similar...

 It seems to be a special one though...


----------



## SirMarc

I have an Asgard 2 and it sounds excellent with any headphone I throw at it. That's why lol


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> I have an Asgard 2 and it sounds excellent with any headphone I throw at it. That's why lol


 


 Ah haha...

 I was looking at the X2's thread and someone said




 Quote:


rgmffn said:


> I have both the Vali and an Asgard 2.  I prefer the Vali with my X2s.  The Vali has better bass and space. At least that's what I hear.  Comparatively, the Asgard 2 sounds a bit sterile to me.




 weird.....


----------



## SirMarc

This hobby can be tough, its not like most of us can just go to a store and demo the equipment. I personally have always liked hybrid gear. I like the warmth of tubes and the punch of solid state amps. Everybody has different tastes and ears. I've found its best to figure out what sound signature you like, and read a schiit load of reviews and posts to see what gear has that signature and then take a chance and order it and hope for the best.


----------



## SirMarc

That being said, I'm a Sennheiser guy, and have never heard the X2's. Have you considered the HD598's? I jumped on the Amazon black Friday deal for those and I'm impressed with them. The soundstage is amazing, and they are not bass lite at all like I've heard people say.


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> That being said, I'm a Sennheiser guy, and have never heard the X2's. Have you considered the HD598's? I jumped on the Amazon black Friday deal for those and I'm impressed with them. The soundstage is amazing, and they are not bass lite at all like I've heard people say.


 


 Thanks for the info in both posts.

 It's hard to find what I want for sure, and everyone has different tastes to what I do especially.


 I bought the X2's with a 100$ off deal.  The 600s were also 75$ off on BF, and I almost jumped on those but they seemed too "Warm" for me..

 I don't really like warm and laid back, I like bright music, but at the same time, if I get bright HPs it seems to not be good...


----------



## SirMarc

If you don't like warm, tubes may not be for you. I find the gold lion to sound solid state-ish. If I liked that sound the best, I would have gotten a modi or bifrost. I got the t1 to add warmth lol.


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> If you don't like warm, tubes may not be for you. I find the gold lion to sound solid state-ish. If I liked that sound the best, I would have gotten a modi or bifrost. I got the t1 to add warmth lol.


 


 Hmm...............  Maybe I should have kept the brighter HRM-7's and gotten a warm tube .  Oh wells, the X2's were the same price, and probably a lot better.


 So what would I get if the X2's are warm, and I want brightness?


 There are no bright tubes?  I thought I had heard there were...


----------



## SirMarc

I still think you'd like the gold lion, but that's another 40 bucks on top of the t1 plus an amp. Have you thought of the magni/modi stack?


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> I still think you'd like the gold lion, but that's another 40 bucks on top of the t1 plus an amp. Have you thought of the magni/modi stack?


 


 Yeah... it's expensive.. M/M sounds okay, just seems like the "entry level go to..."


 Peopel say it's great, and some people ONLY use them, but for me, I'm hoping to get some gear that will be useful for many years, with better HPs.


 I'm the type of person who likes to spend a lot, to get something that will be great, and last for a long, long time.


 Even though I could have spent more on HPs, I felt that the X2's were a great start .


----------



## SirMarc

Yeah man I feel you, I went the other way. I bought the better headphones first, then upgraded the gear lol


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> Yeah man I feel you, I went the other way. I bought the better headphones first, then upgraded the gear lol


 


 Well, I already got the X2's coming tomorrow, so I figured that getting good gear for it would be great.  The Aune seems to be a lower end product overall, but still a good one....

 It's just the only Tube DAC I've seen...  I could go for a better one possibly, but I think 200$ around for each component is plenty...  It seems that you want to spend more on HPs than the equipment though....


----------



## SirMarc

What's good about the t1 is its a great place to start. Its solid as a dac/amp, but later when you upgrade the amp, you see that the dac section is quality. I'm content with the dac with the amperex 7308. I probably won't upgrade till it breaks. Kind of wish it did 24/196, but its hard to hear a difference from 24/96 anyway. I use mine with a Sansui 9090 and HD650's and I'm pretty satisfied.


----------



## SirMarc

The old school rule of thumb has always been to spend the same on speakers as all your other gear combined. I think it applies to headphones too...


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> What's good about the t1 is its a great place to start. Its solid as a dac/amp, but later when you upgrade the amp, you see that the dac section is quality. I'm content with the dac with the amperex 7308. I probably won't upgrade till it breaks. Kind of wish it did 24/196, but its hard to hear a difference from 24/96 anyway. I use mine with a Sansui 9090 and HD650's and I'm pretty satisfied.


 
  
 I heard that the 24/192 is exactly the same as the 96, according to multiple times I've asked it in here PPP....

 Apparently the sound difference in general is very slight anyways...


 It seems like a great dac, with a ****ty amp, so I dfefinitely want to upgrade the amp if it's high impedance... 


sirmarc said:


> The old school rule of thumb has always been to spend the same on speakers as all your other gear combined. I think it applies to headphones too...


 

 Yeah, the HPs are 300$, even though I spent 200$, so if I got the Aune a tube, and a Magni 2, then I would make the 300$ or so amount


----------



## SirMarc

I think you'll be happy with it. And its fun to roll tubes. I've heard good things about those x2's, so you should be good. For a while, until upgraditis hits you again lol


----------



## SirMarc

eurobeat said:


> I heard that the 24/192 is exactly the same as the 96, according to multiple times I've asked it in here PPP....
> 
> 
> Apparently the sound difference in general is very slight anyways...
> ...



I notice a pretty big difference from 16/44 to 24/48 and 24/96, but really not much from there to 192. Would be nice if it did it though, if you know what I mean


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> The old school rule of thumb has always been to spend the same on speakers as all your other gear combined. I think it applies to headphones too...



Having had a bunch of experience now with higher-end gear, I don't buy into that philosophy at all anymore. I'd rather listen to a $300 headphone on a $5000 amp than a $5000 headphone on a $300 amp.


----------



## Eurobeat

hansotek said:


> Having had a bunch of experience now with higher-end gear, I don't buy into that philosophy at all anymore. I'd rather listen to a $300 headphone on a $5000 amp than a $5000 headphone on a $300 amp.


 


 It's hard to say really....  There's so many variables...  I think the issue is that a lot of people say that the headphones are the most important part, because it's what produces the sound, however the DAC is what converts the signal, so even if you have the best headphones in the world, if your DAC isn't good, you're SOL.

 Granted, if your HPs suck there is only so much a great amp and DAC can do to make things go well...



 The question is... What do I do...


----------



## Hansotek

eurobeat said:


> sirmarc said:
> 
> 
> > What's good about the t1 is its a great place to start. Its solid as a dac/amp, but later when you upgrade the amp, you see that the dac section is quality. I'm content with the dac with the amperex 7308. I probably won't upgrade till it breaks. Kind of wish it did 24/196, but its hard to hear a difference from 24/96 anyway. I use mine with a Sansui 9090 and HD650's and I'm pretty satisfied.
> ...



I'm going to be honest with you guys, I'll always have a soft spot for the T1, as it was my first true amp/DAC combo, but at some point somebody has to call a spade a spade. It's not a great DAC or amp. Jump on me if you want, but it's low resolution with poor extension on both ends and it has a microscopic soundstage. It is pretty euphonic and musical - it's definitely good at that, but it gets smashed by any half decent DAC. Seriously, plug this thing and listen to it next to the Geek Out V2 - the T1 will not show well in any measurable way... That's not to say that you won't like the T1 better, subjectively speaking. That is absolutely your right, but I think I just heard this thing being called a "great DAC" one too many times. 

Joe's OP is very impassioned and in turn, very convincing. Most of us are here in this thread because of the epic and emotional journey he took us on in that post. But, while his writing connected with most of us on a deep, human experience level, it's a touch hyperbolic relative to the fundamental objective reality of the sound quality of the T1.

I see Eurobeat here hanging on every word of the OP, and it's really hard to sit here and not say anything. Really, he's probably going to buy it, no matter what I say, but it obviously isn't a match with his headphone, so I have to question how much we are helping at some point here.

Again, I'm not knocking anybody for liking this product, I just feel there needs to be some balance at some point, because this is such a lopsided thread in terms of impressions. Know that I mean no disrespect to Joe (who has been nothing but great in every interaction we've had) or anyone else here, but a dissenting counterpoint was long overdue in this thread. End rant.


----------



## SirMarc

Run! Lol.


----------



## SirMarc

What's a substantially better dac for under 200? Curious, not starting trouble


----------



## Eurobeat

hansotek said:


> I'm going to be honest with you guys, I'll always have a soft spot for the T1, as it was my first true amp/DAC combo, but at some point somebody has to call a spade a spade. It's not a great DAC or amp. Jump on me if you want, but it's low resolution with poor extension on both ends and it has a microscopic soundstage. It is pretty euphonic and musical - it's definitely good at that, but it gets smashed by any half decent DAC. Seriously, plug this thing and listen to it next to the Geek Out V2 - the T1 will not show well in any measurable way... That's not to say that you won't like the T1 better, subjectively speaking. That is absolutely your right, but I think I just heard this thing being called a "great DAC" one too many times.
> 
> Joe's OP is very impassioned and in turn, very convincing. Most of us are here in this thread because of the epic and emotional journey he took us on in that post. But, while his writing connected with most of us on a deep, human experience level, it's a touch hyperbolic relative to the fundamental objective reality of the sound quality of the T1.
> 
> ...


 



 Thanks for your opinion on the matter.


*I take every opinion into consideration when considering what to buy.  I spend many months researching the products I buy.  Your opinion's value isn't any different from the OP's, or any other member of this thread, so not sure why you only think I've read the OP's opinions, when I've been posting here for months.  If I was going to buy the Aune on the spot, I would have already.*


 I've heard the issue with my headphone is that the amp is high output impedance, so if I got another amp, it should work with this DAC from what I hear.

 Have you heard the X2 with the Aune?  Do you know the exact reason why people "Dislike it?"  I heard a review saying someone likes the Aune with the X2.

 If you have heard the X2, what would you recommend then?


----------



## Hansotek

sirmarc said:


> What's a substantially better dac for under 200? Curious, not starting trouble




ODAC (with good USB or Wyrd), Modi 2 Uber, and for $250 Geek Out V2 is much, much better as a combo amp/DAC.

I know you're not.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

I've been comparing my Asgard 2 and Aune T1 combo to my friends JDS Labs C5D, and the C5D is fuller and sounds a good bit better to me. Now, I'd love to trade my Aune T1 for an ODAC and compare the ODAC + Asgard 2 to the C5D, but, no one wants to trade haha.


----------



## Baifern

Most of the people here love the T1 of course. For it's retail price, I would have passed, but for $80 used, this thing is really worth every dollar. I've rolled several tubes with it and they really helped me achieve the kind of sound I'm looking for. I was expecting a lot from the 7308 based on the reviews, but it's not even on my top three tubes.
  
 Also, I'm not using the T1 as a HP amp/dac. I'm using it as pure DAC to feed signal to my Yamaha CA-1010 receiver driving a pair of KEF 104/2. 
  
 I'm now using a Russian 6N1P on it that I bought for $5 shipped. It is very holographic and warm without losing much detail. Soundstage is wide and airy. For the 7308, I find it to be more "solid-state" sounding. The 6N1P, 6n23P, and Siemens Halske (RCA Printed red) 6DJ8 sounded more warm to me.
  
 What I've learned so far is not to purely base your gear on what you read on the internet. Cheap stuff doesn't mean it cannot make you happy and satisfied. The T1 is a great device for the money, and the tube rolling just made it more appealing to the consumers. If it doesn't sound good to you, sell it, buy a more expensive and better equipment, and move on.
  
 Not everyone will like the T1, but it sure served well for the most people here.


----------



## Eurobeat

baifern said:


> Most of the people here love the T1 of course. For it's retail price, I would have passed, but for $80 used, this thing is really worth every dollar. I've rolled several tubes with it and they really helped me achieve the kind of sound I'm looking for. I was expecting a lot from the 7308 based on the reviews, but it's not even on my top three tubes.
> 
> Also, I'm not using the T1 as a HP amp/dac. I'm using it as pure DAC to feed signal to my Yamaha CA-1010 receiver driving a pair of KEF 104/2.
> 
> ...


 


 Thanks for the info!  How does it work when you use it as a HP DAC?

 Interesting about the Amperex, but I guess everyone has their likes, and probably each set of HPs will make a difference too.

 I'm feeling that the Aune probably isn't for me.  Just a lot of comments on it not being that good fo rthe X2's as well.

 But at the same time, it seems like a nice DAC, and I don't know if there are other Tube DACs out there, which makes it unique...

 A few people were talking about the Vali 2 being good for the X2's, but others were saying you're takign a warm tube amp, and warm headphones....

 But that again comes to the question about "Bright" tube amps.  I was reading a comment on here about it, and people had varying degrees of opinion on it.

 It seems like the tube itself is was matters.  YOu can get a warm tube, or a bright tube, the properties of the tube will "color" the sound to what you want.

 The vali looks nice, and is the same price as the Aune.  The Aune also seemed to have some issues reported by people here, so having something that's All American made and seems to be of quality is nice, plus tons of people love Schiit...

 Just not sure if a Vali 2/Modi 2-Uber would work, but the advice I got, which I wanted to do first, was try out my gear on onboard audio, and see if it can power it or not, since the X2's are low Impedance HPs...


----------



## joeq70

gopanthersgo1 said:


> I've been comparing my Asgard 2 and Aune T1 combo to my friends JDS Labs C5D, and the C5D is fuller and sounds a good bit better to me. Now, I'd love to trade my Aune T1 for an ODAC and compare the ODAC + Asgard 2 to the C5D, but, no one wants to trade haha.




I would much rather have a T1 than an ODAC. ODAC is clean sounding but lacks the versatility of the T1. Take the Fostex TH900 shortcomings, for example. Wish it had a more forward midrange? Bam, just slap in a mid-forward tube into the T1. I did this at a meet to great effect.

Only DAC I've heard that was a clear upgrade to the T1 was a Schiit Gungnir. What DAC were you using with the C5D?

Also, I paired an Asgard 2 with the T1 for a bit and while it sounded pretty good, it wasn't particularly special.


----------



## Eurobeat

joeq70 said:


> I would much rather have a T1 than an ODAC. ODAC is clean sounding but lacks the versatility of the T1. Take the Fostex TH900 shortcomings, for example.* Wish it had a more forward midrange? Bam, just slap in a mid-forward tube into the T1. I did this at a meet to great effect.*
> 
> Only DAC I've heard that was a clear upgrade to the T1 was a Schiit Gungnir. What DAC were you using with the C5D?
> 
> Also, I paired an Asgard 2 with the T1 for a bit and while it sounded pretty good, it wasn't particularly special.


 


 you do make good points, but couldn't the same be achieved with a tube amp?

 Any comments on the X2 with the the Aune?


----------



## joeq70

eurobeat said:


> you do make good points, but couldn't the same be achieved with a tube amp?
> 
> 
> Any comments on the X2 with the the Aune?




I imagine that you can do it with a tube amp but the reason I have stood by the T1 all these years is:

1-The T1 is not only inexpensive but it also only uses 1 tube unlike most tube amps, so replacement cost for tubes is reasonable and the price to try new tubes is cheaper.

2- Being a DAC, the T1 works with any headphone, while amps vary in compatibility because of each headphone's power requirements/impedance/sensitivity.


Regarding the X2, unfortunately, I cannot comment because I haven't heard it. I would like to someday though!


----------



## Eurobeat

joeq70 said:


> I imagine that you can do it with a tube amp but the reason I have stood by the T1 all these years is:
> 
> 1-The T1 is not only inexpensive but it also only uses 1 tube unlike most tube amps, so replacement cost for tubes is reasonable and the price to try new tubes is cheaper.
> 
> ...


 



 Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

 I've heard that the X2 doesn't work good with the Aune, but it sounds like that's if you use the built in Amp...  If you use a better Amp, I would assume it would be better.
  
 The Vali 2 is a single tube, and is the same price as the Aune, from Schiit's website  http://schiit.com/products/vali-2


 No sure what I'm going to do, besides read more reviews on everything, and get opinions on things.  A lot of people in here really like the Aune, one user on the last page seems to this it's not good, so we will have to read more Aune thread and find out .


 I do like the idea about swapping tubes, for different sounds, that is why I have been looking at these tube setups.  I like the idea of single tube setups.

 Would you want a different tube on the Aune, that you would on a single tube amp?

 So lets say I did ge the aune, and the Vali 2, would I use the same tube (if the slots are the same), or would I find a tube that suits each individually?

 Thanks for the help


----------



## penmarker

Yes you can share tubes with the Vali 2 because they also use the same tube types. 

I've tried a multitude of DACs and you'd really have to move higher up the chain to get a better DAC. If not, the upgrade would be negligible after a few hours of using without direct comparison. The T1 amp is a little bright so an amp change could help.

I haven't tried the X2 with the T1, but I imagine even if the pairing doesn't have synergy, it will sound a lot better than straight out through laptop/MP3 players.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

I'm now back in the club with the T1 mk2 and a tube marked as "83/65/83" (can't find any info on it from the net). Overally the sound is great but I think I'd be looking for a better tube. Can anyone recommend a detailed but musical tube for soft Pop and something powerful for Glam Metal? Any recommendations will be much appreciated 

Cheers


----------



## rwpritchett

penmarker said:


> Yes you can share tubes with the Vali 2 because they also use the same tube




I believe you're thinking of the Lyr 2. It uses the same tubes. The Vali 2 has smaller tubes that are soldered and not roll-able.


----------



## joeq70

rwpritchett said:


> I believe you're thinking of the Lyr 2. It uses the same tubes. The Vali 2 has smaller tubes that are soldered and not roll-able.



You are confused abut Vali 2. Uses rollable 6DJ8


----------



## SirMarc

baifern said:


> Most of the people here love the T1 of course. For it's retail price, I would have passed, but for $80 used, this thing is really worth every dollar. I've rolled several tubes with it and they really helped me achieve the kind of sound I'm looking for. I was expecting a lot from the 7308 based on the reviews, but it's not even on my top three tubes.
> 
> Also, I'm not using the T1 as a HP amp/dac. I'm using it as pure DAC to feed signal to my Yamaha CA-1010 receiver driving a pair of KEF 104/2.
> 
> ...



How long did you burn in the 7308? For me it took a good 50 hours or so to open up. I'm primarily a vinyl guy, so that's the sound I go for with a tube, and the 7308, in my system, brought me the closest. Like I said earlier though, everyone's tastes, ears and systems are different


----------



## penmarker

rwpritchett said:


> I believe you're thinking of the Lyr 2. It uses the same tubes. The Vali 2 has smaller tubes that are soldered and not roll-able.



 


Roll Your Own Sound
Vali 2 is supplied with a single NOS RCA 6BZ7 tube, which can be swapped for the same tubes we use in Lyr 2 and Mjolnir 2—feel free to use virtually any ECC88, 6922, 6DJ8, 2492, etc to “roll” the sound to your own preference. Plus, you only need a single tube, so rolling is easy and more affordable!







Vali 2 webpage.


----------



## rwpritchett

I missed that Schiit upgraded the Vali to tube roll. That's fantastic.


----------



## Baifern

sirmarc said:


> How long did you burn in the 7308? For me it took a good 50 hours or so to open up. I'm primarily a vinyl guy, so that's the sound I go for with a tube, and the 7308, in my system, brought me the closest. Like I said earlier though, everyone's tastes, ears and systems are different


 

 Really? Maybe only about 20+ hours or so? Hhhmm... That's interesting since my 7308 is not NOS and I thought it would need less burn in time. But, I'll take your word and will give it more time to burn in and see if it'll improve or not.
  
 Thanks Marc!


----------



## SirMarc

My 7308 is warm in a good way, but not lacking detail, full mids and bass, with very slightly rolled off highs. Its my favorite tube. I think everyone should have a gold lion though, its a fun tube to pop in every now and then, and with certain overly warm albums, I actually prefer it


----------



## SirMarc

I was thinking about what hansotek wrote, and I'll preface this by saying he's a nice guy, and we've had a bunch private chats about vinyl and music, and he's not wrong here. I'm sure there are plenty of dacs with more detail and a bigger soundstage, but he also said it can be very euphonic and musical. Here's the thing. I've been a music lover and sometimes audiophile for around 40 years. I did the high end gear in the 90's and early 2000's. My amp and pre amp alone were close to ten grand, not to mention my dac, transport and ridiculous amount of money on mit cables. It was hyper detailed with a ridiculously good soundstage, but I found all I was doing was analyzing the sound quality, not really listening to the music. Fast forward 20 years and I'm using a Sansui 9090 and a tube dac. Why? Because its euphonic and musical, and I enjoy the music again. Just my 2 cents


----------



## Baifern

sirmarc said:


> I was thinking about what hansotek wrote, and I'll preface this by saying he's a nice guy, and we've had a bunch private chats about vinyl and music, and he's not wrong here. I'm sure there are plenty of dacs with more detail and a big soundstage, but he also said it can be very euphonic and musical. Here's the thing. I've been a music lover and sometimes audiophile for around 40 years. I did the high end gear in the 90's and early 2000's. My amp and pre amp alone were close to ten grand, not to mention my dac, transport and ridiculous amount of money on mit cables. It was hyper detailed with a ridiculously good soundstage, but I found all I was doing was analyzing the sound quality, not really listening to the music. Fast forward 20 and I'm using a Sansui 9090 and a tube dac. Why? Because its euphonic and musical, and I enjoy the music again. Just my 2 cents


 
  
 I strongly agree with this Marc.
  
 Hansotek mentioned some good points, but no one can tell what's good for you or not. It also doesn't matter if you're using a five-digit worth of equipment. Spending more cannot guarantee that it'll make improvements to your system. What we read online are just guides and pointers. In the end, it's up to your own ears if the sound is good enough or not. And having good sound for a small amount of money is just amazing!

 Back to the 7308, I am putting more hours into it right now. I don't know, I thought it was okay already, but when I received my 6N1P, it sounded better than the 7308.

 Will post updates later on.


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> I was thinking about what hansotek wrote, and I'll preface this by saying he's a nice guy, and we've had a bunch private chats about vinyl and music, and he's not wrong here. I'm sure there are plenty of dacs with more detail and a bigger soundstage, but he also said it can be very euphonic and musical. Here's the thing. I've been a music lover and sometimes audiophile for around 40 years. I did the high end gear in the 90's and early 2000's. My amp and pre amp alone were close to ten grand, not to mention my dac, transport and ridiculous amount of money on mit cables. It was hyper detailed with a ridiculously good soundstage, but I found all I was doing was analyzing the sound quality, not really listening to the music. Fast forward 20 years and I'm using a Sansui 9090 and a tube dac. Why? Because its euphonic and musical, and I enjoy the music again. Just my 2 cents


 
  
  


baifern said:


> I strongly agree with this Marc.
> 
> Hansotek mentioned some good points, but no one can tell what's good for you or not. It also doesn't matter if you're using a five-digit worth of equipment. Spending more cannot guarantee that it'll make improvements to your system. What we read online are just guides and pointers. In the end, it's up to your own ears if the sound is good enough or not. And having good sound for a small amount of money is just amazing!
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks both of you.  The way he phrased it was more along the lines of the DAC sucking compared to others, and then following up with " you only listen to the OP, and you're going to buy this anyways, so why do I bother," type of post.  Which wasn't needed.

 FWIW I don't think the X2's are what I want ((((


----------



## SirMarc

Have you tried Grados? From the very beginning I was thinking you'd like them. They're very polarizing headphones though, people usually either love them or hate them. I fall into the hate category lol, but hey, I'm a Sennheiser guy, I like warm and laid back...


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> Have you tried Grados? From the very beginning I was thinking you'd like them. They're very polarizing headphones though, people usually either love them or hate them. I fall into the hate category lol, but hey, I'm a Sennheiser guy, I like warm and laid back...


 


 The first pair I had was very harsh, and after having some grado dudes listen to my music, one or more said that it didn't seem I wanted grados, and that I want bass... I don't like that much bass so..... lol!


 I should just try the 325e's....  But they might be too bright Idfk.....


----------



## SirMarc

What about Beyer's? And also, have you ever listened to Sennheisers? You may actually like them...


----------



## Eurobeat

sirmarc said:


> What about Beyer's? And also, have you ever listened to Sennheisers? You may actually like them...


 


 I'm a newbie... ..

 I was goign to rent some stuff from "TheCableCo" still might.


 I dont know if HPs are for me... I feel I might like speakers more Idk...  All I know is when I put on that pair of Logitech G35's I was amazed by the sound I was hearing....  Wish they didn't break .


----------



## SirMarc

If you're in the US, some bestbuys have the HD600's out to demo. I'd give them a try, you might be surprised. I find them to be more neutral than warm


----------



## SirMarc

The beauty of the HD6xx series is how non-fatiguing they are. You can literally listen to them all day with no discomfort


----------



## Hansotek

eurobeat said:


> sirmarc said:
> 
> 
> > I was thinking about what hansotek wrote, and I'll preface this by saying he's a nice guy, and we've had a bunch private chats about vinyl and music, and he's not wrong here. I'm sure there are plenty of dacs with more detail and a bigger soundstage, but he also said it can be very euphonic and musical. Here's the thing. I've been a music lover and sometimes audiophile for around 40 years. I did the high end gear in the 90's and early 2000's. My amp and pre amp alone were close to ten grand, not to mention my dac, transport and ridiculous amount of money on mit cables. It was hyper detailed with a ridiculously good soundstage, but I found all I was doing was analyzing the sound quality, not really listening to the music. Fast forward 20 years and I'm using a Sansui 9090 and a tube dac. Why? Because its euphonic and musical, and I enjoy the music again. Just my 2 cents
> ...




My point was, if you are going to drop $150 on a T1, $70 on a tube and $250 on another amp, you should be considering what your best option is for $470, you know? If your budget is more like $200 and you're driving a high impedance headphone, the T1 and a half decent tube make a nice all-in-one choice.

On the other hand, if you're planning on using the T1 as a DAC only, know that it is nice and musical, but poor in terms of technicality. The soundstage is small, the background is noisy, the transient attack is blurry, it lacks dynamics, it doesn't extend very far in the treble or bass, I'm quite sure THD is quite poor and it lacks microdetail. 

However, to Joe's point a couple pages back, the T1 does offer you the ability to customize the sound of your DAC, which is rare. 

I'm just giving you the negatives so you can see the whole picture. The positives can be found on every page of this thread.

Here's the reality. You have to choose what you want:
On one side you can have super smooth and musical.
On the other side you get detailed and dynamic.

The reality is, unless you're willing to spend $600 or more on a DAC, you really only get to choose one.

I'm trying to give you a fair and unbiased picture here, based on my experiences at this current point in time. If you want to hear positive things I've said about the T1, search my username in this thread, you'll find several dozen posts, and nearly all of them are positive. Something you said the other night triggered a response in me relative to the lack of balance in opinion about this product. There is nothing wrong with owning it or liking it, but I felt there needed to be some sense of big picture counterbalance here.

I think your idea of renting equipment from the cable co is a good one. There is no better way to find out if you like something than to try it. 

Honestly, I'm just trying to help you out man. I'm trying to give you the most current and unbiased opinions I can. I have absolutely no adgenda other than to help you find something that you like. I find it somewhat disrespectful of you to write posts like the one you did above like I can't just come into this thread and see it. Honestly, I give you a fair and well thought out answer and you just kinda smack me in the face for it. I'm sorry if I'm being too straightforward for you. The fact is, I've been there before. I'm just trying to help you connect the dots in a way that makes sense.


----------



## Hixs

Evening,
  
 I know this a thread for the T1, but I'm going to ask here first. If I wanted to upgrade from my T1 (which I will keep solely for desktop/headphone use..for now) to something that would be able to power my Focal 726 speakers, what would you look at for say 300-500 quid? I've no real preference regarding tubes/solid state at this point in time.
  
 I don't know where to start...
  
 Source will be my laptop for now. I'm looking into going down the separates route eventually. Gotta start saving though!


----------



## penmarker

You could start looking for speaker amps or preamp+power amp combos. The T1 doesn't have a pre-out, only line out and the Focals are passive floorstanders.


----------



## Hixs

Sorry, I just realized I've worded that all wrong and basically confused myself.
  
 I have an Marantz SR5010 AVR which powers the speakers. I'm looking for something that plays music that will connect into my current setup. Something that has a HDD so that I don't have to use my laptop as the source.


----------



## penmarker

hixs said:


> Sorry, I just realized I've worded that all wrong and basically confused myself.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



 

Then the Aune S1 would be perfect for you!

http://www.hi-fiworld.co.uk/index.php/internet-audio/483-aune-s1-media-player.html


----------



## Hixs

Cheers!
  
 Will see if I can find some real world reviews.
  
 Next question (this is where I screwed up last night - wine and 2 question being combined into gibberish)
  
 If I was looking at getting a full sized valve amp to power mid range cans (currently own akg 550 which will stay with the T1) where is the best place to start looking? Again budget around 500ish, but that can be flexible within reason.. 
  
 I was thinking maybe sen650 + bottlehead crack
  
 or
  
 hifiman planars + ??
  
 I got reading to do.
  
  
 ps - I realize I should ask this elsewhere, but these types of questions tend to get lost among the huge threads.


----------



## Koolpep

hixs said:


> Cheers!
> 
> Will see if I can find some real world reviews.
> 
> ...


 

 Geeez, wide range.
  
 I have the Crack & Speedball and with the HD650 or the Beyerdynamic T90 it's a sublime combo. Plus you open up Pandora's box of tube rolling (which can be fun until it's your financial ruin, LOL).
  
 But I am also a huge fan of the Hifiman's. I have the HE-560 and love that headphone. With the leather pads - and a powerful amp (you can even try some cheap vintage amp with the HE-Adapter and a balanced cable with amazing results), it's equally amazing.
  
 Best is to attend a meet and try them all out if possible and see what "speaks" to you personally.
  
 Cheers,
 K


----------



## Hixs

Cheers for the reply!
  
 Attending a meet is a no go for me I'm afraid. I run a smallholding in rural France. I can't really be gone for more then half a day at most (plus my French is terrible). Joys of country living. Forget holidays, long days out and decent internet...
  
 I rely totally on reviews and forums for my purchases really. I just spent the best part of 4.5k euro on a new tv, 5.1 surround and amp without demoing any if it.
  
 The 650 go for around 400 euro here (50 odd euro in tax...). I've not looked to see if I can get a new bottlehead shipped to me. It seems the smart choice. Can always add planers at a later date I suppose.
  
 Sorry for the off topic people!


----------



## Ugly Tuco

The thread is too long so could somebody tell me does T1 MkII support AISO?


----------



## joeq70

ugly tuco said:


> The thread is too long so could somebody tell me does T1 MkII support AISO?




As far as I can tell, no, it supports WASAPI not ASIO. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## Ugly Tuco

joeq70 said:


> As far as I can tell, no, it supports WASAPI not ASIO. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


 
  
 Thanks. Sad news. Could somebody share output settings for Foobar?


----------



## penmarker

For wasapi, just choose wasapi push, that should be good. Bitrate would be automatically set to 24bit.


----------



## Ugly Tuco

penmarker said:


> For wasapi, just choose wasapi push, that should be good. Bitrate would be automatically set to 24bit.


 
  
 Thank You for reply.


----------



## joeq70

I just ordered something to see how it interacts with the T1. It's the UpTone Audio USB Regen. Everything I'm reading indicates that it brings significant improvements to all USB DACs. I'll Report back with my findings when it comes in.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

This is probably the most idotic question I've ever asked but would you guys happen to know which tube is this? I ask the seller and the only thing he knows is that the tube only has "85/83/65" attached onto it. My google attempts have returned no results so far.


----------



## Chs177

williamleonhart said:


> This is probably the most idotic question I've ever asked but would you guys happen to know which tube is this? I ask the seller and the only thing he knows is that the tube only has "85/83/65" attached onto it. My google attempts have returned no results so far.


 
 Could you make large picture of this tube(only tube, from bottom and getter part)? Looks like as Russian tube but I can't see details on your picture.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Actually upon closer inspection I've found that it has a marking as "[triangle]OK1". Google returns no result, and that's also the only clue I've got at the moment.


----------



## mikoss

It's a half triangle, which is the delta symbol, which means it was made by Philips in the Heerlen, Holland plant. 0 indicates the year it was made... 1960 most likely. 

That is a nice, vintage tube... Beautiful sounding midrange. Any chance you can see a 7L printed above the delta symbol? See if you can make anything out... That would also tell you the type of tube. Looks to me like an ECC88, which is the 6DJ8... The mica and also the pins are a dead giveaway. 

The mica usually gives you an indication of the type... The 10,000 hour rated tubes normally have round mica, whereas this one has tiny little triangle looking pieces holding it against the glass. The pins are normally "gold" on the longer life tubes as well. These ones are steel.

Also look for four indents at the top of the tube- these are essential if it was made by Philips. The grey getter flashing on the top of the tube also looks shorter than Russian made tubes, which is also an indication, and the getter support and getter itself, which looks to be a halo (round). 

Russian tubes usually have a saucer style getter, and lots more flashing on the side. The delta symbol is all you really need to see where the tube was made, though.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

mikoss said:


> It's a half triangle, which is the delta symbol, which means it was made by Philips in the Heerlen, Holland plant. 0 indicates the year it was made... 1960 most likely.
> 
> 
> That is a nice, vintage tube... Beautiful sounding midrange. Any chance you can see a 7L printed above the delta symbol? See if you can make anything out... That would also tell you the type of tube. Looks to me like an ECC88, which is the 6DJ8... The mica and also the pins are a dead giveaway.
> ...



I'm wowed! The tube actually has a very nice sounding midrange like you said. Unfortunately I can't find any 7L printed above the delta symbol. Here's another view of the tube in action. It has 4 indents like you said... Perhaps it's the EC88 then.


----------



## nScott89

6BC8 appears to be working, in case anyone wants to know. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They are pretty damn dark but spacious sounding.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

joeq70 said:


> I would much rather have a T1 than an ODAC. ODAC is clean sounding but lacks the versatility of the T1. Take the Fostex TH900 shortcomings, for example. Wish it had a more forward midrange? Bam, just slap in a mid-forward tube into the T1. I did this at a meet to great effect.
> 
> Only DAC I've heard that was a clear upgrade to the T1 was a Schiit Gungnir. What DAC were you using with the C5D?
> 
> Also, I paired an Asgard 2 with the T1 for a bit and while it sounded pretty good, it wasn't particularly special.



I was using the built in DAC on the C5D. Also, I am actually not one to tube roll really, too much money for me, I just want something that's accurate now. 



rwpritchett said:


> I missed that Schiit upgraded the Vali to tube roll. That's fantastic.



I missed that also, pretty awesome addition, great amp for someone trying to get into tubes it seems. 



hansotek said:


> My point was, if you are going to drop $150 on a T1, $70 on a tube and $250 on another amp, you should be considering what your best option is for $470, you know? If your budget is more like $200 and you're driving a high impedance headphone, the T1 and a half decent tube make a nice all-in-one choice.
> 
> On the other hand, if you're planning on using the T1 as a DAC only, know that it is nice and musical, but poor in terms of technicality. The soundstage is small, the background is noisy, the transient attack is blurry, it lacks dynamics, it doesn't extend very far in the treble or bass, I'm quite sure THD is quite poor and it lacks microdetail.
> 
> ...


See, this is the stuff I heavily dislike about the Aune, the dynamics and microdetails are very meh, and the soundstage is too poor for me. Now I'm sure there's a tube that could fix that, but, I think something that objectively measures amazingly would be what I'm looking for.


----------



## penmarker

Maybe you should get something from Cavalli Audio or Lake People.

What cans are you using?


----------



## gopanthersgo1

penmarker said:


> Maybe you should get something from Cavalli Audio or Lake People.
> 
> What cans are you using?


Hahahaha, that's wayyyyyyy out of my price range.  I'm using a HiFiMan HE-400i. Besides, the asgard is alright, I just want a nice, accurate DAC, I'd love to get a multibit bifrost or similar, but can't afford that.


----------



## Hansotek

gopanthersgo1 said:


> penmarker said:
> 
> 
> > Maybe you should get something from Cavalli Audio or Lake People.
> ...




Hehe, you may want to wait a couple of weeks until they announce the Liquid Spark preorder price.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

gopanthersgo1 said:


> I was using the built in DAC on the C5D. Also, I am actually not one to tube roll really, too much money for me, I just want something that's accurate now.
> I missed that also, pretty awesome addition, great amp for someone trying to get into tubes it seems.
> See, this is the stuff I heavily dislike about the Aune, the dynamics and microdetails are very meh, and the soundstage is too poor for me. Now I'm sure there's a tube that could fix that, but, I think something that objectively measures amazingly would be what I'm looking for.


 
 I think your dream DAC already exists... And it's the Objective DAC! I've owned both the T1 and the ODAC, and while they are quite different I like both of them the way they are.


----------



## mikoss

IMO, the Geek Out v2 also works very well with the HD-650's... if you're looking for a more portable DAC/amp. I would recommend making a balanced TRRS connector for the 650's with this combo. To my ears, it has a nicely detailed sound, without coming across overly dry, or smooth. Sounds more satisfying to me than either the Modi2uber or ODAC with the 650's in particular. Not quite as holographic with tube euphonics or warmth as the T1 can sound, but very satisfying for detail junkies. The biggest pain is probably making the balanced TRRS connector, tough. Maybe someone sells one for cheap.
  
 I find comparing the T1 with modded caps and a Philips E188CC Miniwatt to the Geek Out v2, the GOv2 sounds cleaner overall, less bloom... also perhaps a bit more of a sophisticated sounding sound stage. Seems easier to pick out layering, and it does a very decent job of bringing out details. The Miniwatt seems to have a gorgeous euphonic sound, which seems to really shine with vocals, or acoustic/live performances. The GOv2 seems to present things with a bit more authority, a bit forward in comparison, and far less euphonic. I like its sound... a very involving, detailed listen. Too bad the amp is built in... if it had line out to be used as a DAC only, that would also be cool.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

williamleonhart said:


> I think your dream DAC already exists... And it's the Objective DAC! I've owned both the T1 and the ODAC, and while they are quite different I like both of them the way they are.


That's what I'm gonna buy.


----------



## turen009

I got a T1 Mk2 pretty cheap used (but like new, hardly used) from my friend. So I am looking to upgrade the tube and anything else that helps. What do you guyz recommend?


----------



## turen009

Btw, my cans are Beyer DT770 250.


----------



## kurosaki123

Aune has updated its T1 with DSD capability, the T1se.
  
http://en.auneaudio.com/index.php?s=Home/Article/detail/id/124.html


----------



## Koolpep

kurosaki123 said:


> Aune has updated its T1 with DSD capability, the T1se.
> 
> http://en.auneaudio.com/index.php?s=Home/Article/detail/id/124.html




Wow, nice update. Reminds me to get my T1 into rotation again, have left it stored away for way too long. 

Cheers,
K


----------



## Aradea

Guys sorry I'm new to this thread and I cant read the whole 500 pages to know the answer to my question:
Is the Mk2 only a more powerful amp than the mk1? Is there any difference from the DAC section?

Thanks


----------



## Kozic

aradea said:


> Guys sorry I'm new to this thread and I cant read the whole 500 pages to know the answer to my question:
> Is the Mk2 only a more powerful amp than the mk1? Is there any difference from the DAC section?
> 
> Thanks


 
 Same Amp updated DAC


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

I have a question: is the Amperex 6dj8 Golden Globe different from the oft-mentioned Amperex 7308? If yes, which one is better?


----------



## teb1013

williamleonhart said:


> I have a question: is the Amperex 6dj8 Golden Globe different from the oft-mentioned Amperex 7308? If yes, which one is better?




Take a look at Joeq70's introductory material on page 1 of this thread (updated in 2015) and the linked material. He discusses both (and prefers the 7308). My own experience included the Voskhod (which many love, but I found too harsh), the Siemans E88CC which is an excellent tube but I didn't think was quite as musical sounding as the 7308, and an Electro Harmonix which came with my T1. Once I tried the 7308 I found it excellent enough so that I pretty much stopped tube rolling and will probably stick with it until it begins to die. One problem with tubes is that they are so subjective. Good luck.


----------



## chowmein83

aradea said:


> Guys sorry I'm new to this thread and I cant read the whole 500 pages to know the answer to my question:
> Is the Mk2 only a more powerful amp than the mk1? Is there any difference from the DAC section?
> 
> Thanks


 
  
 Actually, I thought that the only difference between the mk2 and mk1 versions was that a different USB chip was used? So the mk2 now has asynchronous USB and can play 88.2kHz music (and the mk1 has none of these).
  
 Please correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

teb1013 said:


> Take a look at Joeq70's introductory material on page 1 of this thread (updated in 2015) and the linked material. He discusses both (and prefers the 7308). My own experience included the Voskhod (which many love, but I found too harsh), the Siemans E88CC which is an excellent tube but I didn't think was quite as musical sounding as the 7308, and an Electro Harmonix which came with my T1. Once I tried the 7308 I found it excellent enough so that I pretty much stopped tube rolling and will probably stick with it until it begins to die. One problem with tubes is that they are so subjective. Good luck.


Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately the Amperex is too expensive for me right now (2 times what the 6dj8 costs). I was hoping they are the same


----------



## Aradea

Thanks guys for the feedback.

Has anyone tried this to drive HE-400i or HE-560?


----------



## GnuB

Does anyone have any experience using the Aune T1 as a DAC frontend to a Little Dot MK III or MK IV?
  
 It looks like the Aune uses driver tubes in the same class as the MK III which would be convenient for tube rolling in both.


----------



## chowmein83

aradea said:


> Thanks guys for the feedback.
> 
> Has anyone tried this to drive HE-400i or HE-560?


 
  
 I also happen to own the HE-400i and T1 mk1, though honestly I don't listen to this pair that often now.
  
 I would say that the T1 does an ok job with the HE-400i. The problem is that the amp in the T1 is not really of the best quality. It doesn't really bring out the bass of the 400i that much. Everything else is just ok, though.
  
 So yeah, I don't think I would call this the best pairing, but it doesn't sound entirely bad.


----------



## penmarker

The amp on the T1 id a little bright and I imagine it wouldn't pair well with planar magnetic headphones.


----------



## Aradea

Thanks guys..valuable inputs. 

FYI I am more interested in the DAC section of the T1 rather than the amp section.
Considering that this has a Tube DAC is what interest me.

I am planning to have a separate DAC and Amp to drive the HE-400i


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

gnub said:


> Does anyone have any experience using the Aune T1 as a DAC frontend to a Little Dot MK III or MK IV?
> 
> It looks like the Aune uses driver tubes in the same class as the MK III which would be convenient for tube rolling in both.


 
 I've had the T1 and the Little Dot I+ for months and I've never tried paring them up. I was afraid that connecting a tube buffered DAC to a tube amp (actually the I+ is hybrid) would make the sound too slow and colored.
  
 Of the T1 owners I know most use the T1 with a solid state amp. I'm plugging it into my speaker system too.


----------



## GnuB

williamleonhart said:


> I've had the T1 and the Little Dot I+ for months and I've never tried paring them up.* I was afraid that connecting a tube buffered DAC to a tube amp (actually the I+ is hybrid) would make the sound too slow and colored.*
> 
> Of the T1 owners I know most use the T1 with a solid state amp. I'm plugging it into my speaker system too.


 
  
 I have been using the MKIII with an older solid state Aune DAC/amp as a DAC and a FIIO X3 as a DAC with good results.  The X3 is a bit smoother but I don't want to hassle with unhooking everything all the time so I was looking for a more permanent desktop solution.  The T1 was an interesting prospect but there is a possibility of too much coloration as you mentioned although there might be a good synergy using a brighter tube in the T1 and mellower tubes in the MK III.  One might never know until it is tried....


----------



## mikoss

Pretty sure the T1 mk1 and T1 mk2 share the exact same DAC chip, the Burr Brown PCM1793 which does support 88.2kHz playback on paper, however, doesn't seem to support on either version. I may be wrong, but I believe the mk2 version had a better USB receiver; the SA 9027 which allows for asynchronous playback (merely reduced jitter, which may or may not be audible)...
  
 Looking at the new T1 mk3 (se), it looks to use the DSD1793... my initial thoughts are that it doesn't seem to be a major change. Personally, I find that DSD sounds great, but it doesn't always sound better than a redbook recording. I would take a DAC capable of resolving a higher noise floor, and not being capable of native DSD playback over a DAC that supports DSD playback with crappier specs. Granted that the cost of the T1 is fairly low; in my opinion, the tube buffer is merely "smoothing over" the parts which make the DAC inferior to more expensive offerings.
  
 I would have preferred for Aune to try a Sabre chip implementation; something along the lines of what LH labs has been doing... these chips notoriously have problems in the treble area- the very area that a tube buffer can "fix".
  
 Honestly, to my ears, the LH labs Geek Out v2 sounds much better than the T1 mk1 and mk2. The Geek Out v2 uses a Sabre chip for the DAC, and a class A amplifier... if you consider yourself a fan of the T1's tube buffered sound, I would highly recommend hearing the Geek Out v2. I think tube fans would also appreciate the class A sound... it's good stuff. Aune also has a "portable" class A offering, in the Aune B1, which I would consider a good pairing with the X1S --- however the price point seems silly adding them together.
  
 I'm extremely curious as to why Aune went with the DSD1793 over a Sabre chip... IMO the 1793 chips naturally sound mid-rich and somewhat less revealing than other treble tiled or more natural sounding chips. How many of you actually listen to DSD and wish your DAC supported it natively? How many of you have compared a very good DAC which doesn't support native DSD to a cheaper DSD DAC? I have compared a bunch, and a well designed "PCM only" DAC will always sound better, from my experience and in my opinion.
  
 I look forward to hearing the new T1 myself, but I can honestly say these days my listening is the Schiit Multibit Gungnir at home, and Geek Out v2 away from home. I have the Aune T1 away from home, with upgraded capacitors and expensive NOS tubes, but I haven't turned it on much since I heard the GO v2.
  
  
 All my opinion and I welcome other opinions!


----------



## GnuB

The Aune web site lists the Aune T1se.  http://en.auneaudio.com/index.php?s=Home/Article/detail/id/124.html
  
 It has a different dac chip. XMOS+DSD1793+OP/BUF
  
 Seems to be selling for $250 - $270 usd on ebay and amazon.


----------



## penmarker

I thought I read somewhere that DACs using Sabre chips are struggling a little with glare and harshness. I think the chip doesn't make the DAC, but the implementation instead.


----------



## Aradea

penmarker said:


> I thought I read somewhere that DACs using Sabre chips are struggling a little with glare and harshness. I think the chip doesn't make the DAC, but the implementation instead.



Agree


----------



## mikoss

penmarker said:


> I thought I read somewhere that DACs using Sabre chips are struggling a little with glare and harshness. I think the chip doesn't make the DAC, but the implementation instead.



Sabre DAC + tube buffer = no harsh treble. 

There are also a couple of Sabre DACs with tolerable treble without tubes in the mix. Just a couple...

As far as implementation, I agree. Good luck at the < $1000 price point.


----------



## Aradea

Guys,

Anyone here uses their T1 as DAC only and pair it with a neutral/transparent amp? How does it sound?


----------



## joeq70

aradea said:


> Guys,
> 
> Anyone here uses their T1 as DAC only and pair it with a neutral/transparent amp? How does it sound?



I do (Schiit Mjolnir). I'm very happy with it. I will probably change my DAC someday but I'm not in a rush.


----------



## SirMarc

I use mine with a vintage sansui receiver and occasionally with an Asgard 2, but am thinking about upgrading to a bifrost multi-bit. 
Question to joe, do you find that the T1 does a nice job with 24/48 and 24/96, but not so great with 16/44? I find that even cd's I used to love sound flat and lifeless compared to hi res and vinyl. I know these formats sound better, but it's literally night and day. That's why I'm considering the bifrost multi-bit, so I can play those files natively


----------



## penmarker

I'm pairing it with a Lehmann Black Cube Linear clone called the LovelyCube Premium. It's pretty neutral and resolving.
 Seeing how you can tune the sound by rolling tubes, it's hard for me to pinpoint the sound signature of the DAC itself. But I do have no complaints unless compared directly to other >$300 DACs. Depending on your tube, it has a black background. Other than that I think the dynamic range is just ok. Soundstage and positioning is again, tube dependent, but with my best tube now (Philips Miniwatt ECC189) it's not exactly great, just ok too.
  
 Treble/mids/bass - I'm not too good at describing it. I'm more to a "feeling" kind of guy. I do think the bass is a tad bit rolled off and the mid is tube dependent.


----------



## Kozic

aradea said:


> Guys,
> 
> Anyone here uses their T1 as DAC only and pair it with a neutral/transparent amp? How does it sound?



T1>Asgard 2 sounds great.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

kozic said:


> T1>Asgard 2 sounds great.


I can tell no difference going from Aune T1 to Aune T1+Asgard 2 with my HE-400is, but maybe that's just me. I can tell differences is DACs though. I'm going to an audio meet this Saturday, so, I'll be able to do comparisons with other amps too.


----------



## Aradea

gopanthersgo1 said:


> I can tell no difference going from Aune T1 to Aune T1+Asgard 2 with my HE-400is, but maybe that's just me. I can tell differences is DACs though. I'm going to an audio meet this Saturday, so, I'll be able to do comparisons with other amps too.



So the T1 can properly drive the HE-400i?


----------



## Kozic

gopanthersgo1 said:


> I can tell no difference going from Aune T1 to Aune T1+Asgard 2 with my HE-400is, but maybe that's just me. I can tell differences is DACs though. I'm going to an audio meet this Saturday, so, I'll be able to do comparisons with other amps too.



I find the Asgard warmer with better bass and cut the brightness of the T90.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

aradea said:


> So the T1 can properly drive the HE-400i?


You know, I felt that the bass was lacking with it always, but I have never tried anything other than the stock tube, aside from a few that I got at a garage sale but just sounded distant. The Asgard did help slightly with the bass, but I mean the difference was so small I could hardly tell.
[rule]
Okay, I'm selling my Aune T1 for an ODAC or a Modi 2 Uber, I just am looking for something more detailed. What price should I go for though?


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

gopanthersgo1 said:


> You know, I felt that the bass was lacking with it always, but I have never tried anything other than the stock tube, aside from a few that I got at a garage sale but just sounded distant. The Asgard did help slightly with the bass, but I mean the difference was so small I could hardly tell.  Okay, I'm selling my Aune T1 for an ODAC or a Modi 2 Uber, I just am looking for something more detailed. What price should I go for though?


 
 It's always been the case to me that sticking with stock tubes is like utilising 50% of what you got when you buy the amp... True for both my Little Dot and my T1. 
  
 Anyway if you decide to go for the ODAC, I'm pretty sure it won't let you down with details.


----------



## WAAM

hansotek said:


> It's not a great DAC or amp. Jump on me if you want, but it's low resolution with poor extension on both ends and it has a microscopic soundstage. It is pretty euphonic and musical - it's definitely good at that, but it gets smashed by any half decent DAC.


 
 It`s not a _*great *_DAC/Amp but in this price range DAC part is pretty good and amp section is just ok.
 Microscopic soundstage? I definitely wouldn`t say so. Lot depends on tube being used and internal components (capacitors) which vary with batches.
 This DAC turns into pretty "great" DAC when great tube is being used and some internal components changed against quality ones. After that, definitely not getting smashed by any half-decent DAC.
  
 JMHSO
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




  
 Quote:


baifern said:


> Most of the people here love the T1 of course. For it's retail price, I would have passed, but for $80 used, this thing is really worth every dollar. I've rolled several tubes with it and they really helped me achieve the kind of sound I'm looking for. I was expecting a lot from the 7308 based on the reviews, but it's not even on my top three tubes.
> 
> Also, I'm not using the T1 as a HP amp/dac. I'm using it as pure DAC to feed signal to my Yamaha CA-1010 receiver driving a pair of KEF 104/2.
> 
> ...


 +1
  
 Quote:


baifern said:


> Hansotek mentioned some good points, but no one can tell what's good for you or not. It also doesn't matter if you're using a five-digit worth of equipment. Spending more cannot guarantee that it'll make improvements to your system. What we read online are just guides and pointers. In the end, it's up to your own ears if the sound is good enough or not. And having good sound for a small amount of money is just amazing!


 +1
  
 Quote:


hansotek said:


> My point was, if you are going to drop $150 on a T1, $70 on a tube and $250 on another amp, you should be considering what your best option is for $470, you know? If your budget is more like $200 and you're driving a high impedance headphone, the T1 and a half decent tube make a nice all-in-one choice.


 
 True. But there`s cheaper upgrade options which give also great result.
  


> On the other hand, if you're planning on using the T1 as a DAC only, know that it is nice and musical, but *poor in terms of technicality. The soundstage is small, the background is noisy, the transient attack is blurry, it lacks dynamics, it doesn't extend very far in the treble or bass, *I'm quite sure THD is quite poor and* it lacks microdetail.*


 
 Don`t agree on those points. Idk what is Your experience with tube rolling, upgrading T1 and other gear but I`ve listened some DAC/amp combos and DAC`s within T1 price range and T1 nicely stands up against/over.
  


> T1 does offer you the ability to customize the sound of your DAC, which is rare.


 
 True. T1 versatility is one of its great things.


> On one side you can have super smooth and musical.
> On the other side you get detailed and dynamic.


 
 For me, subjectively, T1 (upgraded) offers middle ground - It`s not _super_ smooth nor _super_ musical and it is detailed and dynamic - very enjoyable musical experience and that`s all I personally want 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 JMHSO


----------



## joeq70

I'm thinking that I will prob stick with the T1 for a long while until I can afford to get an Audio-gd Master 7.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

gopanthersgo1 said:


> You know, I felt that the bass was lacking with it always, but I have never tried anything other than the stock tube, aside from a few that I got at a garage sale but just sounded distant. The Asgard did help slightly with the bass, but I mean the difference was so small I could hardly tell.  Okay, I'm selling my Aune T1 for an ODAC or a Modi 2 Uber, I just am looking for something more detailed. What price should I go for though?


 
  
 Comparing aftermarket amps with the terrible stock tube is a little silly.
  
 My stock amp shorted when the large lead on one hit something while powered on and shorted 2 resistors that I never bothered fixing because my simple Schiit Magni 2 blew it out of the water.  I am talking about a modded stock amp with Panasonic mains and SILMICs for the rest.  You can do a quick search to see my thoughts on the differences, it has been so long that I can't remember the stock amp anymore haha. 
  
 BTW guys, I am still running the one of a kind, never before seen online (quoting AudioTubes.com)  *1963 Amperex Bugle Boy 7308 Holland*      
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I turned down $200 for it, because there isn't another like it and the sound is better than any other tube I have heard including CCa Siemens and I did have a Miniwatt for a short period before selling it because the Amperex I have produces an openness that is unrivaled.  Never heard such a balanced tube produce such detail.
  
 Been away from these forums for a long time because I returned to school to finish my last 2 years in Electrical Engineering at NCSU.  Currently in a circuit analysis (calc based) course and I love this crap!


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

This has been said a lot but with without the T1 I think we wouldn't have any tube-buffered DAC that good for the price. I feed the T1 into my speaker systems, and even though there's some good & cheap tube amp choice out there (the LD I+, which I'm having too) I'd try to avoid double amping as the noise was clearly audible on my Denon amplifier + JBL speaker set. In comparison to the Schitt Vali (it's a tube amp, I know, but there's just no direct competitor in the price range), the T1 is clearly more tube-like to my ear. I tried the Hifiman EF2A too and found it underwhelming. So right now I'm having the ODAC+LD I+ for my headphones and the T1 for my speaker system, and I think this is a setup I'd keep until I have screwloads more money.


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> I use mine with a vintage sansui receiver and occasionally with an Asgard 2, but am thinking about upgrading to a bifrost multi-bit.
> Question to joe, do you find that the T1 does a nice job with 24/48 and 24/96, but not so great with 16/44? I find that even cd's I used to love sound flat and lifeless compared to hi res and vinyl. I know these formats sound better, but it's literally night and day. That's why I'm considering the bifrost multi-bit, so I can play those files natively


 
 You know, I have  never actually paid much attention to it. Most everything I have is ripped to 16/44 and I haven't really had an issue with it. I don't really have any HD CDs to compare with, but I'll do an a/b test sometime and let you know if I can hear a difference.


----------



## Baifern

lwrs10 said:


> *12AU7/6189W*
> 
> *You MUST change the heater circuit to run this tube!!!*
> 
> ...


 
  
 I have to agree on this. I've tried numerous tubes with the T1 and this is far the best that I've tried.

 I'm using a Mullard 12AU7A with a modified socket saver and was surprised how the T1 has improved! Everything just sounded better, and yes, even compared to Amperex 7308.
  
 I couldn't imagine how an $8 tube (won at auction site) could improve this DAC a lot!

 For the tube conversion, I just followed the instructions posted by *lwrs10 *as well.
  


> Pinout to use a 12xx7 tube.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## GnuB

gnub said:


> I have been using the MKIII with an older solid state Aune DAC/amp as a DAC and a FIIO X3 as a DAC with good results.  The X3 is a bit smoother but I don't want to hassle with unhooking everything all the time so I was looking for a more permanent desktop solution.  The T1 was an interesting prospect but there is a possibility of too much coloration as you mentioned although there might be a good synergy using a brighter tube in the T1 and mellower tubes in the MK III.  One might never know until it is tried....


 
 It is being tried....


----------



## xkonfuzed

So, to the people who have upgraded from the T1, what DACs have you went with? How do they compare to the T1?


----------



## Hansotek

xkonfuzed said:


> So, to the people who have upgraded from the T1, what DACs have you went with? How do they compare to the T1?



Mojo and Bifrost Multibit are both worlds better without leaping into the thousands. Far bigger and better sound stage in every respect, better imaging, better extension at both ends, cleaner attack and decay, more focused imaging. T1 sounds very blurry, closed-in and low-fi, in comparison.


----------



## xkonfuzed

hansotek said:


> Mojo and Bifrost Multibit are both worlds better without leaping into the thousands. Far bigger and better sound stage in every respect, better imaging, better extension at both ends, cleaner attack and decay, more focused imaging. T1 sounds very blurry, closed-in and low-fi, in comparison.


 
 Thanks for that. I'll consider these options when I'm ready to upgrade the DAC section of my audio chain. For now, I'm looking to get a Project Polaris as an Amp to replace the built in amp of the T1, later I'll upgrade the DAC.


----------



## rwpritchett

I replaced my T1 with an Audio-GD NFB-15.32. The NFB has a far more powerful amp which is nice for my harder to drive phones, but I'm not liking the DAC section of it as much as the tube buffered T1.


----------



## mikoss

xkonfuzed said:


> So, to the people who have upgraded from the T1, what DACs have you went with? How do they compare to the T1?



Funny, I upgraded my home rig to the MB Gungnir, but my away from home was the T1 until just a month or two ago. I'm using the Geek Out v2 DAC/amp with HD-650's and it sounds very good. 

I turned on the T1 just yesterday as someone was asking for tube recommendations and I wanted to hear that sweet Miniwatt sound. Jesus, it sounded muddy, very closed in, unresolving... I had let it warm up for about an hour, but I could only take three songs before going back to the GOv2. 

I wonder if the tube needs more time to come back to life, but at this point, I just can't enjoy the T1 much anymore. 

GOv2 is extremely good with a balanced connection feeding the HD-650's. The Multibit Gungnir and Yggdrasil are stunning DACs, but in a whole other realm of price range. (They are worth every penny, IMO). 

I would also say the GOv2 is a hell of a lot better than the T1. I love tubes, and I find the class A amp to really bring a musical sound, paired with noticeably good filtering and Sabre implementation without harsh treble.


----------



## xkonfuzed

rwpritchett said:


> I replaced my T1 with an Audio-GD NFB-15.32. The NFB has a far more powerful amp which is nice for my harder to drive phones, but I'm not liking the DAC section of it as much as the tube buffered T1.


 
 Good to know. I've heard good things about Audio-GD products paired with the DT880's, I was actually considering getting one before buying the T1.
  


mikoss said:


> Funny, I upgraded my home rig to the MB Gungnir, but my away from home was the T1 until just a month or two ago. I'm using the Geek Out v2 DAC/amp with HD-650's and it sounds very good.
> 
> I turned on the T1 just yesterday as someone was asking for tube recommendations and I wanted to hear that sweet Miniwatt sound. Jesus, it sounded muddy, very closed in, unresolving... I had let it warm up for about an hour, but I could only take three songs before going back to the GOv2.
> 
> ...


 
 Thanks for that. To be honest, I'm having somewhat of a similar feeling towards my T1 now, despite not having owned superior gear. The T1 has been with me for so long that I can't help but wonder what upgrading would sound like? And strangely it has lost some of its magic. I don't know if my tube is dying out, but it just doesn't impress me as much as it used to. 
  
 I'm reading some some reviews and impressions on the GOv2 and it sounds really promising. How would you describe the Amp section of the GOv2? Is it like the T1 where its a great DAC that happens to have a mediocre amp built-in? Is the amp good enough for the 650's?


----------



## mikoss

xkonfuzed said:


> I'm reading some some reviews and impressions on the GOv2 and it sounds really promising. How would you describe the Amp section of the GOv2? Is it like the T1 where its a great DAC that happens to have a mediocre amp built-in? Is the amp good enough for the 650's?


 
 Nothing like the T1's amp... if you feed using the balanced section on the amp to feed the HD-650's, it drives them exceptionally well. Plenty of power; noticeable improvement in dynamics and also soundstaging. Bass fills in a bit, although they still lack sub bass (which is inherent to their frequency response). Mids have very nice tonality and body, as well the treble tuning matches the 650's very nicely. I've always had a preference for Class A amplification, and there really is something special about the GOv2. 
  
 Comparing it to the MB Gungnir feeding the Zana Deux- the MB DAC unveils another layer of micro-detail that results in just a bit more clarity, as well as a more natural sounding treble which I believe is a big difference going Delta Sigma to R-2R or Multibit. The MB Gungnir also has a touch more ultimate control; bass is very tight, and mids are further refined in comparison to the GOv2. I will say that I would have no problem at all selling my MB Gungnir and Zana Deux and living with the Geek Out v2 and 650's, if it came down to it.
  
 You absolutely require the balanced setup with the GOv2 though... so you need the 3.5mm TRRS connection. I just made my own from a stock HD-650 cable. HD-650's -> Male 4 pin XLR and then Female 4 pin XLR -> Male 3.5mm TRRS.


----------



## AuneAudio

Hello Guys , New T1 SE 24BIT DSD TUBE USB DAC released  now , please check informaiton here :
  
 http://en.auneaudio.com/index.php?s=Home/Article/detail/id/124.html
  
 We will have a Worldwide review tour for this products soon !


----------



## joeq70

auneaudio said:


> Hello Guys , New T1 SE 24BIT DSD TUBE USB DAC released  now , please check informaiton here :
> 
> http://en.auneaudio.com/index.php?s=Home/Article/detail/id/124.html
> 
> We will have a Worldwide review tour for this products soon !



Awesome!


----------



## ClintonL

Hey guys, i have an option of a T1 or an X1S for the same price. If i dont plan on playing DSD's which should sound better?
  
 Cheers


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

The X1S that I auditioned in a stereo shop has ground noise, and the shop owner confirms to me that it happens a lot. A review I read online also confirms this.
  
 But generally speaking, a solid state DAC like the X1S will be colder and more analytical, while a tube amp/dac will sound more analog-ish and musical. So mostly it's a matter of taste. You can't find too much microdetails on something like the T1, but again the tube-sound can be very addictive for some people. Personally I'm all for tube sound.


----------



## Chs177

auneaudio said:


> Hello Guys , New T1 SE 24BIT DSD TUBE USB DAC released  now , please check informaiton here :
> 
> http://en.auneaudio.com/index.php?s=Home/Article/detail/id/124.html
> 
> We will have a Worldwide review tour for this products soon !


 

 How can I participate in this tour?


----------



## mikoss

I didn't find the X1S cold at all. IMO, it has a slightly warm, smooth signature. Since it has a Sabre chipset, some people have found its treble a bit bright, however this may depend on which cans you're driving with it.

I didn't personally find it bright with the HD-650's. I found it sounded smooth, but lacked ultimate details. I also found the amp to be underwhelming. I preferred the B1's sound, as for as tonal weight and body were concerned. 

The X1S is different than the T1... I know a couple people who are quite taken with the X1S, mostly because of how they describe it as "clear and so smooth". I don't disagree with their comments, however I found the DAC to lack texture and detail. I also found the amp to be underpowered, which led to a lack of dynamics. 

As far as a comparison with the T1, I think the strength of Aunes offerings are their unique presentations and pricing. The T1 fits this in that you get an opportunity to roll different tubes to EQ the sound. 

I would compare the O2/ODAC combo to the X1S, as I think this is more the target audience for the X1S.


----------



## mikoss

auneaudio said:


> Hello Guys , New T1 SE 24BIT DSD TUBE USB DAC released  now , please check informaiton here :
> 
> http://en.auneaudio.com/index.php?s=Home/Article/detail/id/124.html
> 
> We will have a Worldwide review tour for this products soon !




Changes look to be an XMOS chip for usb, and a DSD1793 chip as the DAC. 

Questions:
Does it fully support 16/44 up to 24/192?
Does it also support 88.2kHz sampling?
Does the line-in go through the tube buffer? (Or is it the same as the other T1 models, where the line in just goes through the SS amp?)

Seems this would be decent value if it is priced around $225 USD. 

I also find USB on the go support to be fairly silly... You do need to plug the DAC into a power supply after all. There is nothing wrong with USB OTG, but it's hardly a portable solution.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

mikoss said:


> I didn't find the X1S cold at all. IMO, it has a slightly warm, smooth signature. Since it has a Sabre chipset, some people have found its treble a bit bright, however this may depend on which cans you're driving with it.
> 
> I didn't personally find it bright with the HD-650's. I found it sounded smooth, but lacked ultimate details. I also found the amp to be underwhelming. I preferred the B1's sound, as for as tonal weight and body were concerned.
> 
> ...


 
 So between the O2/ODAC and the X1S, which one do you prefer? Speaking of DAC alone, is the X1S better or the ODAC better?


----------



## mikoss

Which one do I prefer? Neither. 

The ODAC has a tendency to sound at very best sharp and a bit brittle. This really depends on the quality of USB/power supply (apparently), however I've always had an issue with its presentation. To me, it sounds just slightly better than a good sound card. Is it neutral sounding? Perhaps. It isn't as warm as the X1S, and it gives me the impression that it is revealing details, even if they sound brittle/overly sharp. Not glare, just the treble is wrong on this DAC. It reminds me of the DAC-1. 

The X1S conversely sounds extremely smooth. It glosses over the brittle treble the ODAC pushes, and gives a slight warmth that makes me feel like everything has a polished presentation. I'm missing tonal weight, texture, micro-detailing. This makes me sad. The ODAC at least tries to reveal some layers that the X1S smoothes over. 

Either way I wouldn't buy either myself. The T1 at least injects some tube texture into the mix, even if it's thick and muddy.


----------



## buestad

I just did a capacitor upgrade on my Aune T1 (MK1).
  
 I bought the suggested ELNA Silmic II and Panasonic FR caps, but ended up not replacing the 3300uF. The original ones, labeled ELNA RJB, was in fact bigger than the replacement Panasonic and looked decent.
  
 Some people has reported trouble removing old solder using a solder suction tool, so I used a solder remover wick in stead which worked fine.
  
 The original tutorial: http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-ss-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq-updated-on-02-14-15/6165#post_10977354 couldn't close the chassis after the upgrade, but this guy https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/238148-diy-replacingupgrading-capacitors-on-the-aune-t1-image-heavy/ made it, so I went for that aproach but slightly different.
  
 After a lot of trial and error I could juuuuuuust make it close.
  
 The final cap layout ended up like this:

 Notice that I had to extend the legs on one of the caps on the main board, and route the wires from the RCA connectors two different paths. Tight fit!
  
  
 The amp part underside:

  
 and the main board outside the case:

  
  
 And, yes it works! Now for some listening to see if there is any noticable difference in sound quality! The tube I currently use is a Reflector 1974 silver shield SWGP.


----------



## mikoss

Wow, squeezed them in... That is skill. The Silmic II's change considerably in the first 100 hours of use, at least to my ears. Enjoy.


----------



## buestad

Is there any reason to change the ELNA RJB 3300uF caps to the Panasonic FR?


----------



## mikoss

If you feel the bass is lacking impact, the Pannys may help. Probably a minimal difference, but I believe the Panasonic FRs were chosen by others as the best performers for the power circuit.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

mikoss said:


> Which one do I prefer? Neither.
> 
> The ODAC has a tendency to sound at very best sharp and a bit brittle. This really depends on the quality of USB/power supply (apparently), however I've always had an issue with its presentation. To me, it sounds just slightly better than a good sound card. Is it neutral sounding? Perhaps. It isn't as warm as the X1S, and it gives me the impression that it is revealing details, even if they sound brittle/overly sharp. Not glare, just the treble is wrong on this DAC. It reminds me of the DAC-1.
> 
> ...


 
 Funny thing I also tried comparing the ODAC+O2 with the soundcard on my old HP laptop using the 325is and hard as I tried I could find no difference. I brought them to my friend for him to try with his HD518 and we found none either. 
 I thought the ODAC+O2 was a scam.
 Then one day I plugged them into my speaker system. I was seriously wowed. In comparison to both the Creative X-Fi Go I was using and the onboard soundcard, the ODAC+O2 provided a whole lot more details. I never knew my hi-fi could sound that great. It was a whole new level of openness and clarity.
  
 Even though I like my T1 a lot, direct comparison between the Aune and the O2+ODAC proved to me what perhaps a lot of people would say: the T1 is noticeably muddier. It sounds really great with my Grados, but in the end I'd miss all those details. 
  
 Have you tried the Modi, Audioengine D1, DACport or other DACs as well? So far in the T1's price range, which one suits you best?


----------



## mikoss

People hear differently and prefer different things, but I found that what I heard was in line with Purrin, who did immense research with many different DACs, and eventually posted a ranked listing. 
He has a way of pointing out strengths and weaknesses that really seemed to match what I heard, so I honestly never bothered with the other cheaper DACs. I do own a Modi2uber, and I also owned the original Modi, so I can comment on both of those.
The original Modi was a "side-grade" to the T1, in my opinion. It had a uniquely wide soundstage presentation, but overall I felt it was muddy sounding. Sort of along the same lines as some of the cheaper stand alone DACs using Burr Brown chips. Not really great clarity or tone. 
The Modi2uber sounds completely different. It's sharp, it's precise... It has a more articulated sounding midrange. Where it falters is in the treble. I felt it had something obviously wrong with regards to how the treble came off... Overly sharp, perhaps dry and flat... Not sophisticated enough. Almost like the treble issues I heard with the ODAC. 
The Modi2u would be a somewhat obviously better DAC than most soundcards, but in comparison to the "big boy DACs", it's very hard to live with. At least, this is how I feel, even with the Wyrd in the mix. 
I have trouble recommending any other DACs below $500 because they mostly all sound very similar, to my ears. The best Sabre implementations I've heard are the Matrix X-Sabre and the Geek Out v2. These really are great performers for their price, in my opinion. 
I would be very skeptical of DACs being released which use the same run of the mill DS chips, without any special filters or power supply implementations. 
I also don't mean to knock any of those DACs... but I will admit that the differences between a lot of DACs seemed fairly minimal until I heard the others. The X1S sounds smooth, but it has very little of the details the MB Gungnir presents. Why live with a source that sounds smooth? Get a superb source and if you want smooth, use an amp that gives you some smoothness.


----------



## dougwicker

How are these likely to perform with aiaiai tma-1 young gurus? They are 32 Ohm units and I love them to bits.
 They have quite a neutral sound which I love but I do have to up the bass a little on my fiio e11. Also I will
 be using the lineout to go to my S.M.S.L SA60 and wharfedale 220s, am I likely to hear an improvement
 through those as well? Thanks for the help guys, just trying to work out whether it's worth the extra compared
 to the e10k.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

dougwicker said:


> How are these likely to perform with aiaiai tma-1 young gurus? They are 32 Ohm units and I love them to bits.
> They have quite a neutral sound which I love but I do have to up the bass a little on my fiio e11. Also I will
> be using the lineout to go to my S.M.S.L SA60 and wharfedale 220s, am I likely to hear an improvement
> through those as well? Thanks for the help guys, just trying to work out whether it's worth the extra compared
> to the e10k


 
 I never compared the Fiio and the Aune directly, but I don't think there will be any drastic improvement in clarity, details and other stuffs like that. The greatest thing about the T1 is that it offers tube-rolling option at low price, and it's really good at that. If you goes for a bass-centric tube, like Mullards, you won't have to use the bass boost on the E11 (which I'm not a fan of, really). And of course your SMSL and wharfedale will benefit from the Aune, since it's a tube DAC. 
 Also, the T1 offers the famous analog "tube sound", which a lot of people prefer than the solid state sound.


----------



## dougwicker

williamleonhart said:


> I never compared the Fiio and the Aune directly, but I don't think there will be any drastic improvement in clarity, details and other stuffs like that. The greatest thing about the T1 is that it offers tube-rolling option at low price, and it's really good at that. If you goes for a bass-centric tube, like Mullards, you won't have to use the bass boost on the E11 (which I'm not a fan of, really). And of course your SMSL and wharfedale will benefit from the Aune, since it's a tube DAC.
> Also, the T1 offers the famous analog "tube sound", which a lot of people prefer than the solid state sound.


 
 Thanks for that. Looks like i'll be spending lots of money on tubes soon  ...​


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

dougwicker said:


> Thanks for that. Looks like i'll be spending lots of money on tubes soon  ...​


 
 Be sure to do a bit of research and buy tubes that complement others well (which means they sound have significantly different sound sig). I'm sure you'll greatly enjoy your T1.


----------



## Hixs

The Mullard ECC88 gets a thumbs up from me. Far superior to the stock Russian tube.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

I've seen no praise for the stock Russian tube. Ever. I've had 2 other Russian tubes from Reflektor and while they were cheap and served me well on certain tracks, all in all they're no match for the Philips Harleen I had.


----------



## Hixs

Have to admit I used my stock tube for 18 months....
  
 I had the greatest of intentions of tube rolling when I got my T1 back in 2014, but it just never happened. Only replaced it because it started to act up. Having replaced it though, I realize just how bad it was.


----------



## Kozic

hixs said:


> Have to admit I used my stock tube for 18 months....
> 
> I had the greatest of intentions of tube rolling when I got my T1 back in 2014, but it just never happened. Only replaced it because it started to act up. Having replaced it though, I realize just how bad it was.


.... there it goes.


----------



## jipan

I'm wondering, will FiiO K5 amp make difference compared to Aune T1 internal amp? Anyone tried this yet? I'm using HD600, btw.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

jipan said:


> I'm wondering, will FiiO K5 amp make difference compared to Aune T1 internal amp? Anyone tried this yet? I'm using HD600, btw.


 
 Yes it will but I don't think the effects are gonna worth the money. If you're willing to spend 100 USD for the K5 I suggest you buy the Vali or Modi, it's gonna be much better.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

hixs said:


> Have to admit I used my stock tube for 18 months....
> 
> I had the greatest of intentions of tube rolling when I got my T1 back in 2014, but it just never happened. Only replaced it because it started to act up. Having replaced it though, I realize just how bad it was.


 
 I know that feeling. Happens to all tube amps. I bought the Little Dot I+ having heard all the raves about it and was hugely disappointed when it arrived. But then I switched the tubes and, wow.


----------



## jipan

williamleonhart said:


> Yes it will but I don't think the effects are gonna worth the money. If you're willing to spend 100 USD for the K5 I suggest you buy the Vali or Modi, it's gonna be much better.


 

 The thing is, no one sell Schiit product here. While importing is available, it had tons of hassle, something which I'm not really like. One of vendor said they going to import Modi (both standard and Uber) but it's been several month without news now.
  
 So, back to see what other amp available locally, I guess. Thanks for the info, though!


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

jipan said:


> The thing is, no one sell Schiit product here. While importing is available, it had tons of hassle, something which I'm not really like. One of vendor said they going to import Modi (both standard and Uber) but it's been several month without news now.
> 
> So, back to see what other amp available locally, I guess. Thanks for the info, though!


 
 How about the JDS O2? There's a lot of great tube amp choices for the HD600, but as you already have the Aune T1, I guess you'll be better off with a solid state amp.
 If you're willing to go higher, the Lovely Cube is going to be great.


----------



## 2Dutch

hixs said:


> Have to admit I used my stock tube for 18 months....
> 
> I had the greatest of intentions of tube rolling when I got my T1 back in 2014, but it just never happened. Only replaced it because it started to act up. Having replaced it though, I realize just how bad it was.


 

 I replaced it relatively soon (I was very curious about the difference it would make), but wanted it to be affordable and easy to buy locally, customs fees are no joke 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




 So I ended up buying a Genalex Golden Lion and was afraid it wouldnt make any difference to my ears, but it did and I have been very happy with it so far 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 Small steps are also steps


----------



## Lionlian

Can anyone recommend a replace tube for T1 mk2 that good with high and/or female vocal ?


----------



## jipan

williamleonhart said:


> How about the JDS O2? There's a lot of great tube amp choices for the HD600, but as you already have the Aune T1, I guess you'll be better off with a solid state amp.
> If you're willing to go higher, the Lovely Cube is going to be great.


 

 Wasn't O2 rather thin on mid? And will it power HD600 adequately?
 Lovely cube? Hmm, I'll try look for it. Thank you.


----------



## KepinCemit

lionlian said:


> Can anyone recommend a replace tube for T1 mk2 that good with high and/or female vocal ?


 
  
 I'm using Mk1, so the results might not be exactly the same with Mk2.
  
 Oh, this doesn't directly answer your question, but I've tried 2 others typed of tube and this is a very simple/short review for them, all compared to the 6922 Electro Harmonix stock tube btw.
  

  
  
 Left : Amperex 6DJ8 Bugle Boy Logo
More airy (airy-er ? ), soundstage & ambiance is much much bigger than stock. Less bass impact & extension, still punchy, just lacking a bit of bass oomph​  
  
Middle : Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globe Logo​ Warm-ish, more vibrant/lively compared to stock. Sweeter mids to my ear. Soundstage/everything else is roughly the same as stock. To me ears, this is a more refined version of the stock tube, called it a direct upgrade to the sound sig of the stock tube if you will.​  
  
Tested with:​ Foobar (various files, flacs & 320kbps)
 Aune T1 Mk 1
 Headphone Sony MDR MA 900​ Active/Powered Multimedia Speaker Corsair SP2500​  ​ Please note that the sound differences of the tubes through the headphone amp isn't really that big, at least to my ears. Noticeable, but not that huge.
 They only sounded really different through the multimedia speakers.

  
​
 For my personal tastes, I prefer the Bugle Boy.
  
 Bought the Bugle Boy & Orange Globe in ebay. I think around $100 for a matched pair of each type.


----------



## Chs177

lionlian said:


> Can anyone recommend a replace tube for T1 mk2 that good with high and/or female vocal ?


 

 It depends on music which you prefer.


----------



## Lionlian

Many Thank, KepinCemit.
  
 It seem that Amperex 6DJ8 is the way too go for me cuz I don't really care much about bass,
  
 I listen mainly to JPop Female Singer and few Classical.


----------



## Chs177

lionlian said:


> Many Thank, KepinCemit.
> 
> It seem that Amperex 6DJ8 is the way too go for me cuz I don't really care much about bass,
> 
> I listen mainly to JPop Female Singer and few Classical.


 

 Telefunken, Berlin plant tubes is the best choice for you. Older is better.
 Telefunken tubes have 3D holographic sound and really amazing on female vocals.
 Telefunken tubes have a problems on large orchestras and metal music in bass area so if you away of such type of music it is a best choice for female vocals.


----------



## Lionlian

Maybe, I shall get these two Tube, Amperex 6DJ8 and Telefunken.
 one for Classical and one for Female Vocal,
 Man... you guys are lifesaving.


----------



## mikoss

The Tele's are super, super pricey. I liked them best with jazz; for female vocals I personally enjoy the Philips/Amperex holland made tubes. 7308/E188CC are the most refined sounding, treble wise, but they are also expensive. Not quite as much as a NOS Telefunken tube though. 

Other Philips tubes sound quite nice, including the 6DJ8/ECC88 and 6922/E88CC. The US made Amperex tubes I found have a bit of a raw sounding treble. They are less laid-back and more forward as well, to my ears. The cheap US Amperex tubes are about the same cost as a cheap Holland Philips, which may also be labelled as an Amperex. Look for * as the US factory code, and a delta symbol (half triangle) for the Holland made Philips/Amperex tubes. 

The Telefunkens are pricey... NOS tubes will have a big line of letters/numbers to identify them. Brent Jessee has a pdf that explains how to interpret the code.


----------



## Chs177

> The Telefunkens are pricey...


 
 Mostly yes, but you could find out good deals. Once I bought NOS, unopened Tele fo 20EUR.


----------



## KepinCemit

lionlian said:


> Many Thank, KepinCemit.
> 
> It seem that Amperex 6DJ8 is the way too go for me cuz I don't really care much about bass,
> 
> I listen mainly to JPop Female Singer and few Classical.


 

 No worries, just sharing my experience with Aune T1 
  
  
 Anyway, i found this site when I googled around (or did I find in in the first few pages of this thread ? ) trying to find info about tubes back when my Aune T1 was brand new
  
 http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html#6DJ8
  
 Bought the bugle boy/orange logo based on the review of the site
  
  
 Hope you'll find the best tube for your Aune T1


----------



## dougwicker

Can anyone help with recommending me a tube or two? I'm looking for something that will be relatively bass heavy, not because I am a bass heavy person but because I feel my aiaiai tma-1's lack in bass, otherwise im looking for a balance with a slight emphasis on details. I listen to mostly electronic pop and electronic indie. The likes of tame impala, m83, mura masa, alt-j, Bombay bicycle club, animal collective and primal scream. I have been looking at the siemens ecc88? I have no previous experience with tubes so not sure which brands have what characteristics


----------



## mikoss

Try the GE smoked glass 6DJ8. It's cheap and it's a good pairing for electronic music. The Siemens tubes are more neutral sounding, with less emphasis on bass than the GE's. Another decent cheap all rounder is the Philips JAN 6922 (made in the USA), or if you'd like more emphasis on mids, the Philips holland tubes are very nice (orange globe, etc). Siemens has a tilt towards treble, so you'll have plenty of ambience/details, however they're generally expensive tubes.


----------



## dougwicker

mikoss said:


> Try the GE smoked glass 6DJ8. It's cheap and it's a good pairing for electronic music. The Siemens tubes are more neutral sounding, with less emphasis on bass than the GE's. Another decent cheap all rounder is the Philips JAN 6922 (made in the USA), or if you'd like more emphasis on mids, the Philips holland tubes are very nice (orange globe, etc). Siemens has a tilt towards treble, so you'll have plenty of ambience/details, however they're generally expensive tubes.




Struggling to find the ge tube in the UK, will keep looking otherwise I will look at the Philips, thanks for the help


----------



## Chs177

dougwicker said:


> Struggling to find the ge tube in the UK, will keep looking otherwise I will look at the Philips, thanks for the help


 

 Finding tubes in UK is easy - http://www.langrex.co.uk/.
 A little bit princely but there are good tubes.


----------



## Chs177

dougwicker said:


> I will look at the Philips, thanks for the help


 
 Why you are looking for Philips if you have Mullards and Brimars locally?
 It's both very good sounding tubes.


----------



## dougwicker

chs177 said:


> Finding tubes in UK is easy - http://www.langrex.co.uk/.
> A little bit princely but there are good tubes.







chs177 said:


> Why you are looking for Philips if you have Mullards and Brimars locally?
> It's both very good sounding tubes.




Sorry guys, new to this whole thing Haha. Turns out I can get the ge tube on eBay for around £25. That link is good thanks but again being new to this I'm not sure how all these models stack up in terms of audio characteristics, what I'm looking for is detailed in an earlier post ^ will the Mullards and Brimars give similar characteristics??


----------



## Chs177

dougwicker said:


> Sorry guys, new to this whole thing Haha. Turns out I can get the ge tube on eBay for around £25. That link is good thanks but again being new to this I'm not sure how all these models stack up in terms of audio characteristics, what I'm looking for is detailed in an earlier post ^ will the Mullards and Brimars give similar characteristics??


 

 Mullard (from my experience) will. Blackburn or Mitchem plant (Bxxx and Rxxx codes). Older is better.
 http://www.audiotubes.com/mullcode.htm


----------



## elliotpiano

sirmarc said:


> The T1 with a good tube, I use an Amperex 7308, as a DAC into the Asgard 2 driving HD600's sounds awesome. In my opinion this combo gives the best of both worlds, the warmth of a tube, and the drive and punch of solid state. The T1's amp section was ok with the 600's at higher gain, but they came alive with the Asgard 2, better bass, bigger more detailed soundstage, better instrument separation, etc... Haven't upgraded in a while, which says something...


 
 I'm trying to decide between the T1 and a lesser known Xduoo TA-01. The TA-01 has a higher output of 224mW at 300 ohm vs T1's 150mW at 300 ohms, will this give better results than the T1 similar to your experience with the higher powered Asgard 2?


----------



## elliotpiano

mikoss said:


> Works great with the 6xx series phones. Not quite as powerful as using an external amp, but a very detailed, tonally correct presentation can be had.
> 
> I would urge you to try some Holland tubes with these headphones. The midrange can sound very, very nice.
> 
> I am pretty sure Aune tested the T1 with the 6xx series headphones... It may sound a bit polite, but I enjoy the sound myself quite a lot.


 
 Would I get more out of my HD580's if I use a Xduoo TA-01 which produces 2100mW @ 32 ohms (sorry it doesn't list mW @ 300 ohm) vs the Aune T1 which produces 1000mW @ 32 ohms?


----------



## SirMarc

elliotpiano said:


> I'm trying to decide between the T1 and a lesser known Xduoo TA-01. The TA-01 has a higher output of 224mW at 300 ohm vs T1's 150mW at 300 ohms, will this give better results than the T1 similar to your experience with the higher powered Asgard 2?



Not sure, I don't really use any of that stuff anymore. I use a Bifrost 4490, Sansui 9090 and HD650's now.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

I don't think output power is going to determine the sound quality you're gonna get on the amps, but still it's true that the amp on the T1 leaves a lot to be desired. Anyway if you need suggestions I'd say you cant go wrong with the Lovely Cube or the M-stage as amp for the T1 and the HD580.


----------



## MateuszW

Hello,
  
 Any owner of Aune T1 SE here? How is it compared to MKII? Aside from all internal changes I'm in love with new tube backlight color


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

It's too new for us. Would you kindly share a picture?


----------



## MateuszW

Sadly I don't have it yet, that's why I was asking your opinions.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

I think it's still way too new. I've followed this thread for a while and at one time the Aune representative dropped in and said they were going to do a tour for it. But I don't think it's on sale right now.


----------



## Anok Pe

Oh, it's available alright. I've had mine for a few months. I took two photos of the new tube backlight: 
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5et3npdowx9kp/aune_t1se
  
I went from Native Instruments Traktoraudio2 (don't ask) + M-Audio AV-40 to aune T1 + Audioengine a5+ and from 16 bit flacs to 24 bit flacs and dsd. I also moved to a new, bigger apartment. So it is quite difficult to say how much exactly aune contributed to the new and greatly improved sound as opposed to the other aforementioned relevant factors.
  
 However, after two months of daily use, I have to concur: the aune T1 does sound absolutely brilliant. The level of intimacy is something I had never experienced with music. It’s almost as if one could be embraced by the soundscape. And I’m talking about the music I’ve been listening to since my preteen years (that would be mid-80s), and which I thought I knew through-and-through. I kind of expected something of a warm but slightly muddy sound that I would probably enjoy as something of a nostalgia trip to the days gone by – much like my recent acquisition of an Amiga 1200 – but the clarity took me by surprise and I’m still reeling from the initial shock and awe.


----------



## Balinus

Ordered the new Aune T1SE. Can't wait to hear it! I just hope it's compatible with Linux... Will post my impressions when I get it in a week or two. It will be paired with AKG K550.


----------



## MateuszW

Fantastic! Can't wait to hear your impressions as I also am a k550 owner


----------



## 3dosh

baifern said:


> I have to agree on this. I've tried numerous tubes with the T1 and this is far the best that I've tried.
> 
> I'm using a Mullard 12AU7A with a modified socket saver and was surprised how the T1 has improved! Everything just sounded better, and yes, even compared to Amperex 7308.
> 
> ...


 
  
 Can you please tell me how to tie pins to each other, I'm new to this so it would be very helpful if you can explain how you modified the saver in detail.
 Thanks


----------



## Anok Pe

3dosh said:


> Can you please tell me how to tie pins to each other, I'm new to this so it would be very helpful if you can explain how you modified the saver in detail.
> Thanks


 
  
 You need a socket saver and connect its pins 4 and 5, and then connect pin 9 to 4 (or 5). I used resistor legs as the connectors and simply soldered them to pins. See here:
  
http://www.mediafire.com/view/n2ow94uji667sgb/12au7_to_6922.jpg
  
 Despite my horrendous soldering, it works. However, at least with my unit, 12au7 (Sylvana tube from early 70s) is quite low on volume. 12Ax7 is supposed to be higher gain, so maybe that might be viable alternative (?) or an external amplifier. It took 15dB preamp on mpd in addition to the dip switches on the bottom (16 dB) to reach 6922 (without dips or preamplification) levels on volume.
  
 The soundstage is noticeably wider compared to either Voskhod 6922 (rocket logo) or stock Electro harmonix that came with the thing.


----------



## 3dosh

anok pe said:


> You need a socket saver and connect its pins 4 and 5, and then connect pin 9 to 4 (or 5). I used resistor legs as the connectors and simply soldered them to pins. See here:
> 
> http://www.mediafire.com/view/n2ow94uji667sgb/12au7_to_6922.jpg
> 
> ...


 

 Thanks mate, well be trying it as soon as I find good tube on ebay.


----------



## 3dosh

@Anok Pe
 Thanks mate, well be trying it as soon as I find good tube on ebay.


----------



## i20bot

Oh, a new version.  Hmmm always wanted to try this thing out.


----------



## hdtv00

So does it really support 192khz now instead of them just claiming it does. And no way it's worth $290 that's ridiculous , so it's as good as a bottlehead crack kit then lol, give me a break. This new SE version doesn't have its own thread does it?


----------



## penmarker

BH Crack is a tube amp only, this is a DAC amp. And being DSD compatible, I'd say it would support 24/192 without a problem.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

The T1 has not retailed in my country yet but I think when it does it's gonna sell for around $180 only. The EH tube version of mk1 and mk2 cost around that amount.


----------



## Balinus

mateuszw said:


> Fantastic! Can't wait to hear your impressions as I also am a k550 owner




Sadly, they only had 220v version.. I got refunded.


----------



## i20bot

balinus said:


> Sadly, they only had 220v version.. I got refunded.


 
 I see this US store selling it and in the description it says it comes with a 110/220v power adapter.


----------



## Balinus

i20bot said:


> I see this US store selling it and in the description it says it comes with a 110/220v power adapter.




Well, the amazon store didn't want to ship it. My guess is that they didn't had it in stock (price was quite good: 230$).


----------



## hdtv00

williamleonhart said:


> The T1 has not retailed in my country yet but I think when it does it's gonna sell for around $180 only. The EH tube version of mk1 and mk2 cost around that amount.


 
 Yea that's my point , how the hell do they think this thing is worth nearly $300 all of a sudden. It's just not there quality wise. It's not even a true tube device, it's a buffer only which has been pointed out many times. That's why I compared it to say the bottlehead crack, it was quality of product not comparison of what the product does. Dude points out they're two different devices , no **** sherlock.
  
 Anyway I can't wait till this comes down in price to something reasonable. I'll buy one for sure. I'm tired of having to downsample my 192 files. I run mine into a bottlehead crack and it sounds great. I don't care what improvements they've done to the amp section(if they have) I let the crack handle that part.


----------



## penmarker

******* **** you're rude. Tell it to my face ****face. 

If it's priced too high then don't buy it.


----------



## hdtv00

You're funny. And I wont until the price comes down to something that makes any kind of sense.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

http://mall.auneaudio.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=42
  
 It's too much. Honestly too much.


----------



## Balinus

mateuszw said:


> Fantastic! Can't wait to hear your impressions as I also am a k550 owner


 

 Went for a used "Pan Am" dac/amp. Quite satisfied with it! It was really complicated to get a hand on the T1SE: one lost package and the other seller seemed out of stock and didn't fullfill my order.


----------



## FaezFarhan

Ordered the Aune T1se to compensate the arrival of my K7XX mid-may. Can't wait. Bought without auditioning both so I'm really excited. Hopefully I'll fall in love with both!


----------



## joeq70

There was mention of a loaner program, but I haven't seen any activity on that front in awhile. I would love to compare the SE to the v1.


----------



## FaezFarhan

I will look for an amp soon to pair it with the Aune T1se. Should I go for the Schiit Magni/Vali or wait longer while aiming for something better?


----------



## joeq70

faezfarhan said:


> I will look for an amp soon to pair it with the Aune T1se. Should I go for the Schiit Magni/Vali or wait longer while aiming for something better?



I have had the Vali and Asgard 2, and now the Mjolnir, and I am much more satisfied with what the Mjolnir did for me improvement-wise.


----------



## FaezFarhan

joeq70 said:


> I have had the Vali and Asgard 2, and now the Mjolnir, and I am much more satisfied with what the Mjolnir did for me improvement-wise.


What about the Vali? How was the sound when paired with the T1? Only minimal improvement? I will wait for the Valhalla 2 or something similiar then.


----------



## joeq70

faezfarhan said:


> What about the Vali? How was the sound when paired with the T1? Only minimal improvement? I will wait for the Valhalla 2 or something similiar then.



The Vali didn't sound a ton different from the stock amp. I liked the Vali a good bit more than the T1 amp, though, when paired up with my cheap Audio Technica turntable. I don't know what headphones you are using, but my recommendation is to get something that can power just about everything. For the money, the Vali 2 does look nice, though.


----------



## HipHopScribe

I recently picked up a used M-Stage amp to pair with the T1, and it's a noticeable improvement, especially with my T20rp MK3s. It helps with my HD600s too, and even somewhat on my easier to drive headphones also, but those Fostex headphones just really need a good amp, they're hard to drive, and adding the M-Stage really just opens them up and gives them a fuller sound with more attack. Very happy with this combo


----------



## FaezFarhan

joeq70 said:


> The Vali didn't sound a ton different from the stock amp. I liked the Vali a good bit more than the T1 amp, though, when paired up with my cheap Audio Technica turntable. I don't know what headphones you are using, but my recommendation is to get something that can power just about everything. For the money, the Vali 2 does look nice, though.


 Gonna use it with my soon arriving AKG K7XX. Heard the stock amp is the weak part of the Aune T1. Haven't tried both yet tho. The T1 is arriving soon but the headphone is arriving mid-may. Thinking of getting an amp together with the T1..


----------



## joeq70

faezfarhan said:


> Gonna use it with my soon arriving AKG K7XX. Heard the stock amp is the weak part of the Aune T1. Haven't tried both yet tho. The T1 is arriving soon but the headphone is arriving mid-may. Thinking of getting an amp together with the T1..


 
 The amp in the T1 isn't great, but it is indeed quite sufficient for many headphones..just depends. The AKGs should sound pretty solid out of the stock amp, just make sure you tinker with the gain settings to get the best performance.


----------



## marts30

I run my HD800S fine on lowest gain, usually about 60-70%. Not sure if I should raise the gain...


----------



## FaezFarhan

joeq70 said:


> The amp in the T1 isn't great, but it is indeed quite sufficient for many headphones..just depends. The AKGs should sound pretty solid out of the stock amp, just make sure you tinker with the gain settings to get the best performance.


 I see, will try that for sure. If not then I'd probably buy the Schiit Vali 2. But only if it gives out a noticable difference / improvement. The Valhalla & such is off the budget right now. 





marts30 said:


> I run my HD800S fine on lowest gain, usually about 60-70%. Not sure if I should raise the gain...


 You're running it on the T1 alone? Wow


----------



## marts30

faezfarhan said:


> I see, will try that for sure. If not then I'd probably buy the Schiit Vali 2. But only if it gives out a noticable difference / improvement. The Valhalla & such is off the budget right now.
> You're running it on the T1 alone? Wow


 
  
 Yeah, if I bump the gain up to +10 then I only need it on like 30% to be at my comfortable level. Worked fine with the K7XX when I owned it.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Though I have and like the Modi 2, I think Schiit's amps are very mediocre. For AKGs and HD800, I think pairing the T1 with the Lovely Cube amp would be very lovely.


----------



## joeq70

marts30 said:


> Yeah, if I bump the gain up to +10 then I only need it on like 30% to be at my comfortable level. Worked fine with the K7XX when I owned it.



Interesting. That is a whisper compared to the volume at which I listen.


----------



## FaezFarhan

That Little Dot amp on massdrop, what would happen if I pair it with the T1se?


----------



## mikoss

faezfarhan said:


> That Little Dot amp on massdrop, what would happen if I pair it with the T1se?



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElJYQP08dos


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

mikoss said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElJYQP08dos


 perfect description. I have both and while I love both, they sound like rubbish when paired with the other. T1 with o2 or magni would be much better


----------



## FaezFarhan

williamleonhart said:


> Though I have and like the Modi 2, I think Schiit's amps are very mediocre. For AKGs and HD800, I think pairing the T1 with the Lovely Cube amp would be very lovely.


 

 Unfortunately it's only for sale in the USA right? I'm far far away in Malaysia haha


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

faezfarhan said:


> Unfortunately it's only for sale in the USA right? I'm far far away in Malaysia haha


 
 Nice to meet you! I worked in KL for like 3 months and perhaps would return in the near future. What's the place you guys trade for used audiophile goods? I don't think it's on lowyat.net or Plaza Lowyat or any mall nearby. In fact during my stay in KL I didn't know of any audiophile shop at all  
  
 Btw for your amps I there're other choices, like the iFi iCan or the Matrix M-stage. In fact those "Lehman clones" (the M-stage and the Lovely Cubes and others) paired very nice with those hi-impedance Senns. Best way to go is with a solid state, as you've already got a tube DAC. But I don't think the Modi or the O2 is going to pair nicely with HD800 or HD650.


----------



## penmarker

faezfarhan said:


> Unfortunately it's only for sale in the USA right? I'm far far away in Malaysia haha


 
 Hey man, if you want to you can come over to my place. I got the Lovely Cube paired with the Aune T1. Got it used from a local in lowyat forum classifieds.
  
 Also, there are quite a few hifi stores here but they're basically concentrated in high income areas like Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and Johor.


----------



## HipHopScribe

williamleonhart said:


> Nice to meet you! I worked in KL for like 3 months and perhaps would return in the near future. What's the place you guys trade for used audiophile goods? I don't think it's on lowyat.net or Plaza Lowyat or any mall nearby. In fact during my stay in KL I didn't know of any audiophile shop at all
> 
> Btw for your amps I there're other choices, like the iFi iCan or the Matrix M-stage. In fact those "Lehman clones" (the M-stage and the Lovely Cubes and others) paired very nice with those hi-impedance Senns. Best way to go is with a solid state, as you've already got a tube DAC. But I don't think the Modi or the O2 is going to pair nicely with HD800 or HD650.


 
  
 I second the M-Stage recommendation, makes a great partner for the T1. Sounded great with my HD600s


----------



## FaezFarhan

williamleonhart said:


> Nice to meet you! I worked in KL for like 3 months and perhaps would return in the near future. What's the place you guys trade for used audiophile goods? I don't think it's on lowyat.net or Plaza Lowyat or any mall nearby. In fact during my stay in KL I didn't know of any audiophile shop at all
> 
> Btw for your amps I there're other choices, like the iFi iCan or the Matrix M-stage. In fact those "Lehman clones" (the M-stage and the Lovely Cubes and others) paired very nice with those hi-impedance Senns. Best way to go is with a solid state, as you've already got a tube DAC. But I don't think the Modi or the O2 is going to pair nicely with HD800 or HD650.


 

 Hey man, nice to meet you too! Where are you from and where are you working now? We do trade audiophile goods on forum.lowyat.net. Go down to the garage sale section and it's under 'music players & audio accessories'. For audio shops there are a few.
  
 https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=3131011&hl= - actually bought the Aune T1se from him. He's an online-based seller.
 http://www.lelong.com.my/merchant/starspicker.htm - a very, very cozy store in Damansara to test out various headphone, amps & such
 http://www.jaben.com.my/ - probably the most famous audiophile store in Malaysia right now
  
 How much is the Matrix M-stage btw? I would be using it with the AKG K7XX which is arriving soon. I've also joined to Purpleheart drop which is coming in September but probably will use another amp with it. Maybe the Grace M9XX from Massdrop. Would the Aune T1se, paired with a O2 amp sound good with the K7XX though?


----------



## FaezFarhan

penmarker said:


> Hey man, if you want to you can come over to my place. I got the Lovely Cube paired with the Aune T1. Got it used from a local in lowyat forum classifieds.
> 
> Also, there are quite a few hifi stores here but they're basically concentrated in high income areas like Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and Johor.


 

 Hey! How much did you get it for bro? I would love to but my K7XX will only arrive in 2-3 weeks time! Maybe I'll come when it arrives if you don't mind.
  
 What's your lowyat.net ID? Do you post in the audiophile forum there?


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

faezfarhan said:


> Hey man, nice to meet you too! Where are you from and where are you working now? We do trade audiophile goods on forum.lowyat.net. Go down to the garage sale section and it's under 'music players & audio accessories'. For audio shops there are a few.
> 
> https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=3131011&hl= - actually bought the Aune T1se from him. He's an online-based seller.
> http://www.lelong.com.my/merchant/starspicker.htm - a very, very cozy store in Damansara to test out various headphone, amps & such
> ...


 
 Thanks for the tips. Perhaps I'll be in KL in June.
  
 I'm not sure how much the M-stage goes for in My, but in Singapore  it should be around 300 USD. The O2 I'm not sure since I no longer have it.
  
 Coincidentally I'm also borrowing the M9xx from a friend. If you've got the chance, buy it. You won't regret any bit at all. It's my most favorite DAC so far and its amp is more than enough to drive the K7xx. How much you would like it depends on your taste, though.


----------



## penmarker

faezfarhan said:


> Hey! How much did you get it for bro? I would love to but my K7XX will only arrive in 2-3 weeks time! Maybe I'll come when it arrives if you don't mind.
> 
> What's your lowyat.net ID? Do you post in the audiophile forum there?


 
 I got the Lovely Cube Premium (LBP) amp used for around RM450~ or so. I don't really remember since its been about 2 years. Still going strong. The original owner had upgraded the opamp too it turns out.
  
 I've compared it with the Matrix M-Stage, the one without the DAC and smaller knob with one headphone jack, didn't bring my LBP so if there's a difference I can't notice it. Tested out the M-Stage at Stars Picker too lol. 
  
 My username there is the same like here, penmarker. I do post there every now and then in the forums, but not too often since most of the discussion is about multi thousand ringgit setups like Chord, Astell&Kern, Audeze... I'm in the turntable thread too.


----------



## Kaszanas

Ok Hello guys I am kind of new here overall. I have Beyerdynamic DT990 600 ohm along with Aune T1 MKII what would be the setting of gain, I cannot figure out those switches on the bottom of the device. I guess I am at max gain cause I have to listen to it on 1/4 a twist of the knob. and I got to lower it on the system, something doesn't feel right.
 Anyone has any experience with that?
  
 Besides, It says that this DAC/AMP is capable of 24bit / something something (do not understand I am noob), but when I try to set it up like that on my system something is not working and i have it set up on 16 bit / something something.
  
 So there are 2 questions: 
 1. What is the best gain for Beyer DT 990 600 ohm and what is the best sound volume setting on my Windows.
 2. How to set system sound properties to get most of this device?
  
 Please help me with that


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Theoretically, more gain means more distortion, so I'd say always go with lower gain and see if you can get enough volume. If the answer is yes, don't bother with higher gain. 
In reality, I have barely see it makes a difference. So you should go with what you deem is best. 

On the matter of windows playback, I suggest you use foobar and download the wasapi plug in, select it as output. You may set the t1 output at 24bit inside the app. Don't bother setting anything in Windows cos it doesn't make a difference at all.


----------



## Kaszanas

I think I need help to configurate that stuff.
 I tried this configuration but it doesnt work.
 http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?94044-Windows-PC-and-Foobar-set-up-for-Audio-with-WASAPI-DAC
  
 I basically need to know how to set it up from scratch properly as this makes no sense to me.
 WASAPI doesn't appear in windows so I can set it up.


----------



## FaezFarhan

Have anyone compared the amp on the Aune T1 to the O2 amp before?


----------



## SpiderNhan

faezfarhan said:


> Have anyone compared the amp on the Aune T1 to the O2 amp before?



I have the Aune T1 mk1 and a Massdrop O2. This comparison was done using the T1's DAC feeding it's own amp and the O2's.

The T1 has a warmer sound, smaller soundstage, and less treble energy. It also has a high 10 ohm output impedance that doesn't pair well with lower impedance headphones.

The O2 is more neutral and initially may sound bass-light of you're coming from the T1's amp but once you get used to the colder tonality of the O2 the T1 will sound slow and closed-in. The O2 is also much more powerful than the T1 and can get much louder without distorting.


----------



## hdtv00

https://youtu.be/UXLyQnLucDk?t=1m26s


----------



## hdtv00

kaszanas said:


> I think I need help to configurate that stuff.
> I tried this configuration but it doesnt work.
> http://www.hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?94044-Windows-PC-and-Foobar-set-up-for-Audio-with-WASAPI-DAC
> 
> ...


 
 https://youtu.be/UXLyQnLucDk?t=1m26s


----------



## Kaszanas

hdtv00 said:


> https://youtu.be/UXLyQnLucDk?t=1m26s


 
 I will check it out and we will see what comes out of this one 
 Will keep you posted


----------



## FaezFarhan

spidernhan said:


> I have the Aune T1 mk1 and a Massdrop O2. This comparison was done using the T1's DAC feeding it's own amp and the O2's.
> 
> The T1 has a warmer sound, smaller soundstage, and less treble energy. It also has a high 10 ohm output impedance that doesn't pair well with lower impedance headphones.
> 
> The O2 is more neutral and initially may sound bass-light of you're coming from the T1's amp but once you get used to the colder tonality of the O2 the T1 will sound slow and closed-in. The O2 is also much more powerful than the T1 and can get much louder without distorting.


Awesome! Thank you for the feedback. Helped a lot. My Aune T1se is arriving this week, and I will now also purchase an O2 amp to change it up a bit if I get bored or I don't like the sound of the stock amp.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

I have read somewhere that the amp section of the T1 cost $8 to replace. It may produce higher current, but I dont think the SQ would please anyone. If Aune decide to do away with the amp inside the T1, its gonna be much better for me


----------



## joeq70

williamleonhart said:


> I have read somewhere that the amp section of the T1 cost $8 to replace. It may produce higher current, but I dont think the SQ would please anyone. If Aune decide to do away with the amp inside the T1, its gonna be much better for me


 
 Yeah, it is nothing special, but it doesn't do much good to judge it by the price of its parts. It really doesn't sound too shabby at all with many headphones.
  
 Edit: Specifically, I like how it handles Grados. It has a very clean presentation that lets you hear the nuances between tubes much better than, say, the Schiit Asgard.


----------



## mikoss

Agreed. The amp doesn't need to be anything special... The tube buffered DAC is giving you some added texture and warmth. It also gives you a taste of what tubes are capable of revealing, despite the amp. 

As for cost, the O2 uses a couple cheap ass MOSFETs and has a legion of objectivists who believe it is the be all end all (according to my ears, it most definitely isn't...). 

My opinion, the T1 does a good job with higher Z cans. I didn't like it too much with lower Z eg. Planars. Just my opinion.


----------



## Kaszanas

hdtv00 said:


> https://youtu.be/UXLyQnLucDk?t=1m26s


 
 Unrecoverable playback error: Could not initialize the driver - ****'s not working.
 I have done every step out of the video as it is.
 Still doesn't work.
 I have also installed the ASIO4ALL drivers and Echo Fire drivers.
 Doesn't help ...
 Please present me with a working solution of the problem, because I feel that the ones I have are ****, and I am getting fond of it....
  

  
 Here is everything that is set up there. The only one working is this one. as SPDIF interface under DS
  
 Also I have found out that the other one working is this one, I don't know if it is this one that it should be on tho ...

  
 Darn I do not understand what this is all about 
  
 The thing is, when I set up foobar to go on 24bit in the configuration above, it destroys all the other system sounds, so surfing through the Internet e.g. YouTube, and other applications are not possible.
 That is not acceptable for me.
 I want to have the best settings up while doing whatever I want.
 I would like to play games, listen to music, serf through the net. And all that without worrying about something fking up on me in the process between configurations... When foobar uses WASAPI everything else stops playing.
 I need a serious solution as I consider that to be a serious problem.


----------



## mikoss

WASAPI is designed such that it exclusively sends one data stream to your DAC. 

If you're playing music, why would you want your browser or another program to interrupt it? 

A couple of options... One is to set your primary sound output device in Windows to another DAC, such as your onboard soundcard, then specify in Foobar that you'd like it to use the Aune as per above. This will ensure your music plays through the T1, and all else gets sent elsewhere. 

Another option, use direct sound kernel streaming in Foobar (DS SPDIF Interface), if you're not concerned with hearing the best sound quality.

To answer your question, WASAPI is a better playback method than DS. This sends the digital file to the DAC, with as little as interference as possible. 

DS on the other hand allows Windows to mismash the audio from any/all programs at once and send it to the DAC via the Windows kernel. It is not the preferred method if you are interested in absolute quality. 

To change the output sound device in Windows, right click the volume icon in the task bar, and navigate through. Find your onboard soundcard and right click it to set it. All your sounds will default there, then you can still tell Foobar to use WASAPI with the Aune for your tunes.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

mikoss said it perfectly. The purpose of wasapi is to block other apps to make sure foobar (or anything that use it first) gets best SQ. If you want to play games, surf the webz at the same time, use Direct Sound.


----------



## xkonfuzed

Weird question but is there a way to use WASAPI with chrome?


----------



## joeq70

xkonfuzed said:


> Weird question but is there a way to use WASAPI with chrome?



http://www.head-fi.org/t/747478/chrome-exclusive-mode-audio

Edit: I've tinkered with this, and I'm not convinced it does much but ymmv.


----------



## rwpritchett

xkonfuzed said:


> Weird question but is there a way to use WASAPI with chrome?


If you have JRiver MC, you can run all audio through it's WDM driver thereby all audio gets the JRiver treatment such as WASAPI. I don't know of any other software that has that functionality but there may be others.


----------



## FaezFarhan

Anyone tried the T1 with the Matrix M-Stage HPA-3B before?


----------



## hdtv00

> Darn I do not understand what this is all about
> 
> The thing is, when I set up foobar to go on 24bit in the configuration above, it destroys all the other system sounds, so surfing through the Internet e.g. YouTube, and other applications are not possible.
> That is not acceptable for me.
> ...


 
 Um the entire point as pointed out by others is to EXCLUDE all other audio to stop it from mixing keeping the audio pure in output. If you want to hear everything then stop trying to even set this up as its pointless for you, as the entire point of doing this is stop everything from mixing keeping the audio pure, which you clealry don't want or understand so.


----------



## Kaszanas

hdtv00 said:


> Um the entire point as pointed out by others is to EXCLUDE all other audio to stop it from mixing keeping the audio pure in output. If you want to hear everything then stop trying to even set this up as its pointless for you, as the entire point of doing this is stop everything from mixing keeping the audio pure, which you clealry don't want or understand so.


 
  
 I understand it perfectly well, but couldn't you achieve mixed pureness of sound? I am not after one pure source of sound.
 even when you think of a music track as a whole, it is sounds mixed togheter, why not mixing more sources at once and be able to have them in good quality?
 Quality =/= Purity
 I am not after purity.
 I am after quality.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Then your only choice is keep on using directsound. You're complaining about the purpose of wasapi, so if you want to use many applications at the same time, give up wasapi because blocking other apps is what it's meant to do. All the arguments about pureness and quality is sidetrack-ing and irrelevant.


----------



## xkonfuzed

kaszanas said:


> I am not after purity.
> I am after quality.


 
 I'm gonna use that as my Senior quote now.


----------



## Kaszanas

williamleonhart said:


> Then your only choice is keep on using directsound. You're complaining about the purpose of wasapi, so if you want to use many applications at the same time, give up wasapi because blocking other apps is what it's meant to do. All the arguments about pureness and quality is sidetrack-ing and irrelevant.


 
 Not really, comments about the pureness and quality are quite relevant when you think of it as I do.
 Because I would love to have the best quality attainable with few sources at once.
 I wonder about DJ's mixing tracks, that is making them less pure right? But that doesn't mean they compromise quality over that.
 The question is: What is the best way to mix the sound on your PC so it can go through the Aune, and sound the best as it could.
  


xkonfuzed said:


> I'm gonna use that as my Senior quote now.


 
 haha that sounds crazy!
 But seriously that quote is deep, and it is kind of my way of beeing.


----------



## mikoss

The best way is to use one program to play all sounds. That one program uses WASAPI, which enables it to send one direct stream to the DAC.

To answer your question, mixing is done by one program. Multiple tracks, all being played through one program reduces jitter. If you try to use multiple programs with direct sound, the Windows kernel will mishmash them together, most likely introducing jitter, most likely degrading sound quality. 

Make sense?


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

kaszanas said:


> The question is: What is the best way to *mix the sound on your PC so it can go through the Aune*, and sound the best as it could.


 
 By this you've already limit your choices to using direct sound on foobar. It can't be better, it can't be worse. It's the only choice. 
  
 Anyway you can try setting the bit depth by clicking on the sound button, Playback devices > rightclicked on Aune > Properties > Advanced and choose 24 bit.


----------



## Kaszanas

williamleonhart said:


> By this you've already limit your choices to using direct sound on foobar. It can't be better, it can't be worse. It's the only choice.
> 
> Anyway you can try setting the bit depth by clicking on the sound button,* Playback devices > rightclicked on Aune > Properties > Advanced and choose 24 bit.*


 
  
 That bold thing is not working.
 I have tried it many times


----------



## joeq70

xkonfuzed said:


> I'm gonna use that as my Senior quote now.



LOL


----------



## mikoss

kaszanas said:


> That bold thing is not working.
> I have tried it many times



Funny you mention that. The original T1 would not play 24bit recordings, neither would T1 mk2. I would hope the new T1 would support 24bit recordings, but it wouldn't surprise me if it didn't.


----------



## audioisemotion

Strange, my foobar is set to output at 96Khz and 24bit only and everything I play is up/down sampled to this and they all play via my mark one T1??


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

I don't have the T1 anymore but as I remember playback in foobar can be set at 24bit for the T1 mk2?


----------



## hdtv00

The first batch of them it wouldn't allow windows to set it to 24 bit or some crap. They claim it was doing 24 bit just that somehow it got listed wrong in the firmware. Or something along those lines.


----------



## FaezFarhan

My T1se finally arrived.. Can't wait to try it out! What kind of tubes should I look for to improve the sound?


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

faezfarhan said:


> My T1se finally arrived.. Can't wait to try it out! What kind of tubes should I look for to improve the sound?


 
 Most people stop at the Amperex 7308. At least from there it's much harder to find a great tube. The stock tube really sucks and doesn't do the T1 justice.


----------



## penmarker

kaszanas said:


> That bold thing is not working.
> I have tried it many times


 
 Have you tried this?


----------



## FaezFarhan

williamleonhart said:


> Most people stop at the Amperex 7308. At least from there it's much harder to find a great tube. The stock tube really sucks and doesn't do the T1 justice.


How does the Amperex compare to the original?


----------



## Hixs

The stock tube is poor. I had the stock tube in my mk2 t1 for 18 months before replacing it (it blew). The difference between my current tube (ECC88) vs the stock is amazing. I was surprised how much of a difference the tube could make
  
 I bought the T1 with the intention of tube rolling (I bought into the hype) but it never happened. I just got lazy and stuck with it. Big mistake!


----------



## FaezFarhan

hixs said:


> The stock tube is poor. I had the stock tube in my mk2 t1 for 18 months before replacing it (it blew). The difference between my current tube (ECC88) vs the stock is amazing. I was surprised how much of a difference the tube could make
> 
> I bought the T1 with the intention of tube rolling (I bought into the hype) but it never happened. I just got lazy and stuck with it. Big mistake!


I see. Thank you for the input. Will definitely look around for tubes as soon as possible.. How's the ECC88?

Btw anyone using the T1 with the K7XX? What's your gain settings? And which amp are you using it with? The stock amp?


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

faezfarhan said:


> How does the Amperex compare to the original?


 
 First post says it all. "Holographic" is the word I'd use.
  
*Amperex 7308 ** Gold Pin*
 Alright guys, I finally got my hands on my Amperex 7308. This tube is the real deal no doubt about it. The first thing that stood out when I popped this tube in was man this thing sounds HOLOGRAPHIC. I've never heard anything have this much soundstage but still retain such smoothness. It's well balanced and dynamic with excellent details in the whole sound spectrum. Despite this, I decided to use the Rocket Logo 6n23p as my primary tube. The Rocket Logo has this addictive aggressive sound that I just can't shake. I believe that out of all of the tube I tried, the vast majority will prefer the Amperex 7308, but for me...Rocket Logo all the way...makes my Magnums rock so, so hard.
 Purchased here:http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html


----------



## FaezFarhan

williamleonhart said:


> First post says it all. "Holographic" is the word I'd use.
> 
> *Amperex 7308 ** Gold Pin*
> Alright guys, I finally got my hands on my Amperex 7308. This tube is the real deal no doubt about it. The first thing that stood out when I popped this tube in was man this thing sounds HOLOGRAPHIC. I've never heard anything have this much soundstage but still retain such smoothness. It's well balanced and dynamic with excellent details in the whole sound spectrum. Despite this, I decided to use the Rocket Logo 6n23p as my primary tube. The Rocket Logo has this addictive aggressive sound that I just can't shake. I believe that out of all of the tube I tried, the vast majority will prefer the Amperex 7308, but for me...Rocket Logo all the way...makes my Magnums rock so, so hard.
> Purchased here:http://www.upscaleaudio.com/products/Amperex-7308-vintage-gold-pin%21.html


Ahh missed that. Thanks man!

Btw should I go for the Amperex 7308 or Amperex Bugle Boy for usage with the AKG K7XX?


----------



## xkonfuzed

penmarker said:


> Have you tried this?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


 
 Whats the difference between WASAPI (push) and (event) ?


----------



## FaezFarhan

Ordered the Amperex 7308 Goldpin nos. it'll be here in around 10 days. In the meantime I will be getting used to the stock amp sound. Btw my Aune T1se gets really really hot after a few hours of usage. Is it normal?


----------



## mikoss

xkonfuzed said:


> Whats the difference between WASAPI (push) and (event) ?



Good Q. It's been discussed in other threads. If I find the response, I'll forward it over. My basic understanding is that WASAPI event is preferred, but I've noticed some USB receivers only work via push. I believe push doesn't negotiate the data the same way as event... I believe event is a more elegant method of transmitting the data, whereas push is more of a data dump. 

I'm paraphrasing of course... I'll see if I can find it and post here. 

As for Bugle Boy vs 7308, the Holland E188CC/7308's are more refined sounding than the ECC88 tubes. My personal experience with the AKGs would be that they need all the refinement they can get. Go with the E188CC.


----------



## FaezFarhan

mikoss said:


> As for Bugle Boy vs 7308, the Holland E188CC/7308's are more refined sounding than the ECC88 tubes. My personal experience with the AKGs would be that they need all the refinement they can get. Go with the E188CC.


Awesome, ordered myself the 7308, can't wait to test it out against the stock tube.. Hopefully some decent improvements!


----------



## xkonfuzed

mikoss said:


> Good Q. It's been discussed in other threads. If I find the response, I'll forward it over. My basic understanding is that WASAPI event is preferred, but I've noticed some USB receivers only work via push. I believe push doesn't negotiate the data the same way as event... I believe event is a more elegant method of transmitting the data, whereas push is more of a data dump.
> 
> I'm paraphrasing of course... I'll see if I can find it and post here.
> 
> As for Bugle Boy vs 7308, the Holland E188CC/7308's are more refined sounding than the ECC88 tubes. My personal experience with the AKGs would be that they need all the refinement they can get. Go with the E188CC.


 
 Interesting. On Foobar I have mine set on event but never bothered experimenting between the two because I thought there wasn't any difference.


----------



## penmarker

xkonfuzed said:


> Interesting. On Foobar I have mine set on event but never bothered experimenting between the two because I thought there wasn't any difference.


 
 If there's a difference, I can't notice it. PUSH is like a hog mode. The T1 will be assigned exclusively to Foobar and WASAPI "pushes" the digital file to the T1 DAC without any processing by windows audio processor. Any other audio sources will either be muted or played through your laptop speakers. EVENT is supposed to bypass windows audio processor as well but other sources will play through T1 as well, but its not working on mine.It just won't play.
  
 To avoid all that hassle, just choose the DS : Primary Sound Driver. All sounds will be processed by T1 indiscriminately. If you do notice a difference in sound quality compared to the WASAPI PUSH then this product is probably isn't for you and you should get a higher end DAC/Amp. That's a better run for your money.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

faezfarhan said:


> Ordered the Amperex 7308 Goldpin nos. it'll be here in around 10 days. In the meantime I will be getting used to the stock amp sound. Btw my Aune T1se gets really really hot after a few hours of usage. Is it normal?


The difference will be very noticeable. You won't go back to the stock tube. 

And yes it's normal for anything with tube to become hot. So no worry. Do tell us your impression with the Amperex tho


----------



## joeq70

This is my favorite tube these days:

http://www.upscaleaudio.com/6922-6dj8-7308-pcc88/bel-e88cc-6922-philips-sq-design/


----------



## SirMarc

joeq70 said:


> This is my favorite tube these days:
> 
> http://www.upscaleaudio.com/6922-6dj8-7308-pcc88/bel-e88cc-6922-philips-sq-design/



Hey Joe, kind of surprised you haven't upgraded from the t1 yet. I still use mine in my secondary system, but in my main rig I've moved on and upward...


----------



## FaezFarhan

williamleonhart said:


> The difference will be very noticeable. You won't go back to the stock tube.
> 
> And yes it's normal for anything with tube to become hot. So no worry. Do tell us your impression with the Amperex tho


This is making me more excited. Is it true that the stock tube sounds kinda 'muffled'? I thought that was the Aune's limitation. Never knew I could upgrade the sound massively by changing tubes!


joeq70 said:


> This is my favorite tube these days:
> 
> http://www.upscaleaudio.com/6922-6dj8-7308-pcc88/bel-e88cc-6922-philips-sq-design/



Thanks for the link man. I went on it and read tons of information about other tubes. Tho I feel it'll be hard to find those kind of tubes here locally in Malaysia..


----------



## joeq70

sirmarc said:


> Hey Joe, kind of surprised you haven't upgraded from the t1 yet. I still use mine in my secondary system, but in my main rig I've moved on and upward...



I really like the T1 a lot even after all these years. I've spent most of my time and money finding the right headphone and then the right amp. That really took a while, but I love the Omni, and I'm quite satisfied with the Mjolnir. My next step is to find a DAC upgrade, but I'm not in that much of a hurry.


----------



## FaezFarhan

joeq70 said:


> I really like the T1 a lot even after all these years. I've spent most of my time and money finding the right headphone and then the right amp. That really took a while, but I love the Omni, and I'm quite satisfied with the Mjolnir. My next step is to find a DAC upgrade, but I'm not in that much of a hurry.


You're using the T1 solely as a DAC? Which headphone & amp pairing are you on?


----------



## joeq70

faezfarhan said:


> You're using the T1 solely as a DAC? Which headphone & amp pairing are you on?



My chain is as follows:

Aune T1 (BEL E88CC tube)>Schiit Mjolnir>ZMF Omni


----------



## FaezFarhan

joeq70 said:


> My chain is as follows:
> 
> Aune T1 (BEL E88CC tube)>Schiit Mjolnir>ZMF Omni


How significant was the improvement the Mjolnir made compared to the stock amp? The sound characteristic?


----------



## joeq70

faezfarhan said:


> How significant was the improvement the Mjolnir made compared to the stock amp? The sound characteristic?



The difference it made for my Omnis was massive because the Omni needs a lot of power. I havent tried the Mjolnir with any other phones yet because it is a balanced-only amp.

The characteristic improvememts were better bass slam, wider soundstage, and more detail. Pretty much improvement across the board.


----------



## Baifern

For those of you who just started with the Aune T1 and asking which tube to get, there are actually a lot of recommendations here, but most of them will tell you to get the 7308 Gold Pin, in which I've tried myself as well. For me, it's okay, but not worth $70 or more.
  
 Few months back, I bought a Russian 6N1p for $5 on the auction site and found it to be better than the 7308. For me, the 7308 sounded more like "solid-state." The 6N1P, 6n23P, and Siemens Halske (RCA Printed red) 6DJ8 are the ones suited my taste better.

 Then, I tried the socket saver mod to use a 12au7 on the T1, and I never looked back! The 12au7 just takes the T1 to another level! Everything just sounded better!

 But then again, we hear differently and observe what we hear differently, so I'd say pick a tube that'll suit your taste better.
  
 Here's a link that contains more links for tube recommendations. Find the tube that will likely perform towards your preference.
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-ss-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq-updated-on-02-14-15/2010#post_9502294
  
 And for those of you who are interested to try a 12au7, I just followed what's posted by lwrs10 here:
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-ss-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq-updated-on-02-14-15/3945


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

baifern said:


> For those of you who just started with the Aune T1 and asking which tube to get, there are actually a lot of recommendations here, but most of them will tell you to get the 7308 Gold Pin, in which I've tried myself as well. For me, it's okay, but not worth $70 or more.
> 
> Few months back, I bought a Russian 6N1p for $5 on the auction site and found it to be better than the 7308. For me, the 7308 sounded more like "solid-state." The *6N1P, 6n23P*, and Siemens Halske (RCA Printed red) 6DJ8 are the ones suited my taste better.
> 
> ...


 
 Having used both of these Russian tubes I can say that they're great choices for someone who's after the warm, analog sound. That said, I also enjoyed the 7308 greatly.


----------



## FaezFarhan

williamleonhart said:


> Having used both of these Russian tubes I can say that they're great choices for someone who's after the warm, analog sound. That said, I also enjoyed the 7308 greatly.


My 7308 should arrive on monday/tuesday. Can't wait to compare it to the stock tube.. Btw the stock tube sounds a bit grainy right? Or it's from the T1?


----------



## FaezFarhan

Btw which gain settings are you guys using? & for which headphone?


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Doesn't matter which headphone you use, always start at low gain and then turn up the volume. If the maximum low gain won't do, go for high gain.


----------



## FaezFarhan

williamleonhart said:


> Doesn't matter which headphone you use, always start at low gain and then turn up the volume. If the maximum low gain won't do, go for high gain.


I see. With the AKG K7XX the volume needs to be around 80%-90% I think. That's why I increased the gain a bit.. Maybe I should bring it down?


----------



## rwpritchett

Heads up ladies and gentlemen. The Aune T1 SE MK3 is on Massdrop. $199 if it gets to 100 buyers.


----------



## joeq70

rwpritchett said:


> Heads up ladies and gentlemen. The Aune T1 SE MK3 is on Massdrop. $199 if it gets to 100 buyers.


 
 I really wish the tour that was teased would have come to fruition


----------



## mikoss

I'm sure it'll hit 100 buyers! It's decent value at $200... A nice way to get into tubes as well.


----------



## penmarker

It was a steal for the Mk1 and 2, the SE will be even better.


----------



## FaezFarhan

Received it.. Valid? Massive improvement in clarity tho


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Seems valid to me. Identical to the one I had.


----------



## joeq70

Hey guys I have a question for you all....How many tubes have you gone through using the Aune T1? I ask because since I started this thread back in 2012 not a single tube has died on me yet. Granted, I do use different tubes at different times but still...seems like tubes live a long time in this thing.


----------



## hdtv00

Didn't someone say I thought that it doesn't push the tubes like they would be under normal things would that the tubes were designed for, so it gives em longer life. I mean it is only a buffer after all and isn't really draining or power hungry because it isn't actually powering the headphones. I don't know but yea I've yet to have one die too cept the one I dropped while cleaning it ...my fav tube too.


----------



## FaezFarhan

hdtv00 said:


> Didn't someone say I thought that it doesn't push the tubes like they would be under normal things would that the tubes were designed for, so it gives em longer life. I mean it is only a buffer after all and isn't really draining or power hungry because it isn't actually powering the headphones. I don't know but yea I've yet to have one die too cept the one I dropped while cleaning it ...my fav tube too.


What does buffer mean btw? Because I heard a massive difference in SQ when changing tubes. That sounds like a big role.


----------



## hdtv00

Means exactly that the T1 is a buffer only and then its sent to the solid state amp section. It should be obvious really when places like upscale audio has lower graded tubes for just buffer type stages at cheaper prices. That tells you right there that amps use tubes in different ways. Compare it to say my bottlehead crack which has tubes for the power stage and amp section. I actually use the T1 to feed my crack the signal , it's AMAZING sounding. Gives my headphones the power they grave and yet I get whole power and amp section the tube sound I love. Aune T1 is great pair for the crack if you ask me.


----------



## FaezFarhan

hdtv00 said:


> Means exactly that the T1 is a buffer only and then its sent to the solid state amp section. It should be obvious really when places like upscale audio has lower graded tubes for just buffer type stages at cheaper prices. That tells you right there that amps use tubes in different ways. Compare it to say my bottlehead crack which has tubes for the power stage and amp section. I actually use the T1 to feed my crack the signal , it's AMAZING sounding. Gives my headphones the power they grave and yet I get whole power and amp section the tube sound I love. Aune T1 is great pair for the crack if you ask me.


 

 Wow, the bottlehead crack looks awesome. I might get one in the future for my T1 + K7XX. Did you upgrade the tubes?


----------



## hdtv00

Yep of course I did. 
  

  
 The ones on left side are for the T1, the right side ones are for the crack as well as the big ones obviously. It's been fun trying to find bargains on ebay and what not, plus hearing the difference between tubes.


----------



## xkonfuzed

joeq70 said:


> Hey guys I have a question for you all....How many tubes have you gone through using the Aune T1? I ask because since I started this thread back in 2012 not a single tube has died on me yet. Granted, I do use different tubes at different times but still...seems like tubes live a long time in this thing.


 
 I have 6 and none of them have gone bad, though it must be said I only use one of them which is the Amperex 7308. I've owned my T1 since 2013.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

I think it's normal as one tube can last 5 years or more and it has not been 5 years yet. I have had dead tube but it was due to the fact that I moved house


----------



## EVOLVIST

Has anyone actually heard the T1se and can comment on the DSD playback, as well as the 24/192?
  
 I had the Aune T1 some time ago, and I thought it was brilliant. I ventured in other areas, since, but when I demoed it to the guy who wanted to buy mine, I plugged it in and was amazed all over again.
  
 I'm curious what the latest model brings to the table.


----------



## hdtv00

Well I assume it brings real 192khz and DSD and maybe slightly better amp section, and I mean SLIGHTLY I would assume. It's just priced way to high if you ask me at the moment. The group buy failed not enough interest. And I've seen no real feedback on it either anywhere.


----------



## Casual864

Anyone know why my Aune doesn't power on? The tube light doesn't shine anymore.
  
 Now when I power on the dac it doesn't seem to power on anymore? The power switch is kinda flimsy in the back and the RCA ports are flimsy as well.
  
 Also connected through the USB but my PC doesn't recognize any Aune devices when powered on.
  
 I'm hoping it's just a tube that's gone bad, but this is my first tube amp and I'm not sure what's going on.


----------



## mikoss

casual864 said:


> Anyone know why my Aune doesn't power on? The tube light doesn't shine anymore.
> 
> Now when I power on the dac it doesn't seem to power on anymore? The power switch is kinda flimsy in the back and the RCA ports are flimsy as well.
> 
> ...



There are two green LEDs which should be lit up on the amplifier section circuit board. I think you can view them from the bottom. Try checking there. 

Otherwise, there may be a fuse inside the power transformer that the T1 plugs into. If that is blown, replace it with the same value.


----------



## HeavenNotes

Hello. I had my T1 in a box.  I decided to use it again.  I love it!!!


----------



## Casual864

mikoss said:


> There are two green LEDs which should be lit up on the amplifier section circuit board. I think you can view them from the bottom. Try checking there.
> 
> Otherwise, there may be a fuse inside the power transformer that the T1 plugs into. If that is blown, replace it with the same value.


 
 No green light either. Do you know where I can purchase a power transformer for the T1?


----------



## mikoss

Try contacting Candy at Aune directly. Her email is sales@auneaudio.com

I may also have a spare. I'll check. I think I got rid of it though.


----------



## HeavenNotes

Hello. Would you please help me to identify this tube? 





[/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]


----------



## mikoss

Hard to see it in those pictures... what kind of getter does it have? The nipple looks like it could be Russian, but it doesn't seem to have a thick body, so my guess is probably a Matsuschita from Japan.
  
 Sorry, the nipple shape means it is probably not a Japanese tube. My best guess would be Chinese or Russian.


----------



## HeavenNotes

Thank you. .


----------



## HeavenNotes

mikoss said:


> Hard to see it in those pictures... what kind of getter does it have? The nipple looks like it could be Russian, but it doesn't seem to have a thick body, so my guess is probably a Matsuschita from Japan.
> 
> Sorry, the nipple shape means it is probably not a Japanese tube. My best guess would be Chinese or Russian.


 it would be a Rocket Logo


----------



## Etherate

Hi guys
  
 I have lost the power supply to my Aune T1. Can anyone direct me to where i can buy a replacement? (one that supports 240v)
  
 I have already tried emailing Aune, they are rather slow


----------



## HeavenNotes

etherate said:


> Hi guys
> 
> I have lost the power supply to my Aune T1. Can anyone direct me to where i can buy a replacement? (one that supports 240v)
> 
> I have already tried emailing Aune, they are rather slow




Hello. You would try here "The Earth City Sound Co"


----------



## Etherate

heavennotes said:


> Hello. You would try here "The Earth City Sound Co"


 
  
 Hmm ok, i cant see anything on their website or ebay store. I sent them a message anyway though


----------



## Etherate

Hey guys
  
 can anyone help?
  
 When i connect my Aune T1SE via USB, the drivers do not install correctly in Windows 7. Shows as T1 USB DAC in device manager but with a yellow exclamation point next to it. I can't find any drivers online to manually install


----------



## Etherate

etherate said:


> Hey guys
> 
> can anyone help?
> 
> When i connect my Aune T1SE via USB, the drivers do not install correctly in Windows 7. Shows as T1 USB DAC in device manager but with a yellow exclamation point next to it. I can't find any drivers online to manually install


 

 Nevermind, Aune emailed me some drivers to use and it works now


----------



## chillysalsa

Just testing out a new scope (OWON sds7102) in the lab today, decided to do some thing useful with it and compare the noise on the Aune T1 (original version) with two different 6DJ8 tubes.  Test condition: 1 khz output at 80% full scale generated using the Audacity software.
  
 Here are the screenshots with volume knob set to output 2V (about half volume) and 3.6V (about 80% full volume):
  

  

  

  

  
 The unit has dominantly 2nd and 3rd harmonics both about 50db down at 2V, then mostly 3rd order about 20db down at 3.6V (which doesn't surprise me as that's close to clipping).
  
 Interesting that the measurements reveal measurable differences between the tubes at 80% volume, both are ok but slightly different signature.


----------



## OnyxVulpe

Thinking about getting some speakers for my new setup. I already have my T1 MK2 for my headphones. Does this work from USB to the RCA out? And then this can power... unpowered speakers?


----------



## joeq70

onyxvulpe said:


> Thinking about getting some speakers for my new setup. I already have my T1 MK2 for my headphones. Does this work from USB to the RCA out? And then this can power... unpowered speakers?



Yes you can can use the USB and the line out to your speakers but it provides zero power. You need to either connect the line out to a speaker amp or to powered speakers.


----------



## OnyxVulpe

joeq70 said:


> Yes you can can use the USB and the line out to your speakers but it provides zero power. You need to either connect the line out to a speaker amp or to powered speakers.


 

 Ah, ok thank you. So will I still be able to adjust volume with the knob on the T1 itself?


----------



## penmarker

onyxvulpe said:


> Ah, ok thank you. So will I still be able to adjust volume with the knob on the T1 itself?


 
 No you can't. The volume knob only controls the headphone out. The RCA line out has a fixed volume.


----------



## joeq70

onyxvulpe said:


> Ah, ok thank you. So will I still be able to adjust volume with the knob on the T1 itself?



If you want something simple to pair up with your T1 that will power speakers and has a physical volume control, I recommend the Emotiva Mini-X-A-100


----------



## rwpritchett

I ran my T1 to active powered Audioengine speakers with fantastic results. Very good sound for the price.

The Audioengine A5 and A2 models have built in amps that the T1 can feed through its fixed line out.


----------



## DW75

I am now an owner of the Aune T1 SE MK3. I have had it for a couple days now. I have to say it is pretty impressive. I own the SoundMagic HP150 and AKG K545. I also own the Fiio E12. The T1 SE MK3 has good synergy with both pairs of headphones. I will say though that the K545 is better sounding to me than the HP150, but that is a comparison review I may put up another day soon. I have done several tests using both headphones with the T1, and the K545 is definitely the better option. This is the same result with the Fiio E12, and any other gear I have tried as well. The K545 is just a better sounding headphone. I have never owned the T1 MK1 or MK2, so unfortunately I can not do a comparison. One complaint I do have with the stock tube on my SE MK3 is that at times the bass can be a tad slow and loose. It lacks tightness and refinement across the bass regions with heavy metal music which is my genre of choice. I am also noticing that the treble is somewhat tizzy and lacking some articulation. It is a bit of a mess in the upper frequencies on some tracks. I am about 8 hours in with the DAC/AMP so far. Other than the couple things mentioned, the T1 SE MK3 is offering a good experience with my K545, although not mind busting.
  
 Edit: I just ended up ordering the Genalex Gold Lion E88CC Gold Pin version. I will update my impression of the T1 once the new tube arrives.


----------



## OnyxVulpe

I'm not looking to spend too much money and want to keep the speakers on the slightly smaller size to keep more room on my desk so I was looking at the Micca PB42X/MB42X so I was trying to figure out if I needed the powered one or not. Trying to keep the cleaner look if possible, but I guess I may be open to getting a small amp so I can easily change the volume of the speakers without having to reach behind the speakers.


----------



## penmarker

I got myself a Lehmann Black Cuber Linear clone headphone amp with a pre-out. Two advantages from this; better headphone stage, and volume control for my powered speakers.


----------



## Jerppane

So I was wondering if any of you had experience testing the T1's amp against something beefier.
  
 I had Hifiman's HE400's for a long time with the T1 and I really liked the sound. Recently I got a good offer on HE-500's and decided to upgrade. Been running the 500's now with the T1 and I cant lie, it does sound really good. More midrange, more detail in highs and bass is really good. I know that the T1's amp isn't the most powerful and the 500's would probably benefit from a beefier amp, or would it?
 Are any of you running the T1 just as a DAC and using a beefier amp alongside? Would love to hear some experiences.


----------



## penmarker

I'm using the T1 MK2 as a DAC and my headphone amp is a Lehmann Black Cube Linear clone. The amp offers a better bass extension and less piercing treble. Compared to the stock amp, the stock amp is a little thin and flat. I like the amp as it offers a pre out for my active speakers.
  
 Other than that, there's not much difference. I do think it is a matter of preference in my case. My headphones are demanding though, when I plugged my Sennheiser HD525 into Stoner Acoustic EGA+EGD stack, everything sounds a lot better.
  
 Read through the previous pages, some users report good results using a different amp.


----------



## WAAM

Has anyone tried replacing T1 DAC opamp OPA2134 (BBOPA 2134UA) and Headamp board opamp NE5532 (N5532A) ?
 For these for example:
 NE5532 (N5532A) for > http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/newclassdopamps.html
 OPA2134 (BBOPA 2134UA) for > http://www.hificollective.co.uk/semiconductors/dexa-newclassd-single-opamps.html
  
 Alternative (more expensive) is Burson opamps: https://www.bursonaudio.com/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v5/
  
 I`m thinking about doing it since my T1 is modded anyway and I won`t sell it probably.


----------



## penmarker

I think it would be better to invest in a better DAC than getting an OPA for the T1.
  
 But then again, if you upgrade you can just swap the OPA in the new DAC with the upgraded one you have.
  
 **edit:
 I'm not too good with op amps, but isn't the OPA2134 the op amp people upgrade to from their current op amps? I know a modder that swaps out the stock PSX OPA with the OPA2134 and new power supply for it. So I guess its already pretty good.


----------



## WAAM

penmarker said:


> I think it would be better to invest in a better DAC than getting an OPA for the T1.


 
 Define better? To my ears and with my gear I really do not feel & hear any need for better. I`m using Siemens E88CC goldpin and upgraded to SilmicII + Panasonic FR caps. It really sounds awesome with huge holographical 3D soundstage and great micro-details.


> But then again, if you upgrade you can just swap the OPA in the new DAC with the upgraded one you have.


 
 True but I don`t plan to sell my T1 anyway (wouldn`t get money it`s worth) and just cause I like to tinker sometimes with gear, I wish to get "maximum" out of it.


----------



## penmarker

waam said:


> Define better? To my ears and with my gear I really do not feel & hear any need for better. I`m using Siemens E88CC goldpin and upgraded to SilmicII + Panasonic FR caps. It really sounds awesome with huge holographical 3D soundstage and great micro-details.
> True but I don`t plan to sell my T1 anyway (wouldn`t get money it`s worth) and just cause I like to tinker sometimes with gear, I wish to get "maximum" out of it.


 
 Ah the holy grail Siemens E88CC, planned to get that one but I changed my mind and now currently saving for a beefier DAC with balanced out and multiple ins.
 Do you use a different amp for it?
  
 Don't need to sell your old gears, keep them and you have multiple for work, bedside, living room, etc.


----------



## WAAM

penmarker said:


> Do you use a different amp for it?


 
 No, that`s why I wanted to improve opamps. As I`ve read and also came to my own conclusion - T1 amp portion is its weakest part. Not planning to get separate amp. 
 I wonder if there is some cheaper(but better SQ) opamps from ADA-family I could replace against?


----------



## DW75

I have to say I am rather tempted to open my T1 SE MK3 up and see the total of what has been updated compared to previous revisions other than having XMOS and DSD1793 now. I am curious if anything has been changed in the headphone amp section. One thing to note, is my packaging is completely different from those with an MK1 and MK2. Mine came in a gorgeous black box with the "aune" logo in silver on the front. Inside the box, everything was presented very nicely. The manual and driver were on a memory stick which was also included. I am now waiting for my Gold Lion E88CC to show up to put in this puppy. It should be here in about a week.


----------



## EVOLVIST

dw75 said:


> I have to say I am rather tempted to open my T1 SE MK3 up and see the total of what has been updated compared to previous revisions other than having XMOS and DSD1793 now. I am curious if anything has been changed in the headphone amp section. One thing to note, is my packaging is completely different from those with an MK1 and MK2. Mine came in a gorgeous black box with the "aune" logo in silver on the front. Inside the box, everything was presented very nicely. The manual and driver were on a memory stick which was also included. I am now waiting for my Gold Lion E88CC to show up to put in this puppy. It should be here in about a week.


 
  
 Oh cool! Please post impressions. Have you got around to listening to it yet? I think you might be the only one in here who has one.
  
 I spent a small fortune tube rolling my MK1, but I always kept coming back to the stock tube as being the most natural to my ears, without any flubbiness that 6922s can have. But this is coming from a guy who is really a solid state type, so take that with a grain of salt. I'm interested that the T1 SE MK3 can actually output, using the tube, to an external amp, which is really cool, for just using the DAC and the tube. I'd love to hear how it sounds running into my SPL Auditor.


----------



## dcfis

Hi Guys, back after a long time. Glad to see yall are still messing with this thing. I see the cap upgrade and wanted to know if anyone has part numbers, where to get them or if you have extra to sell I could buy. Thanks


----------



## DW75

dw75 said:


> I am now an owner of the Aune T1 SE MK3. I have had it for a couple days now. I have to say it is pretty impressive. I own the SoundMagic HP150 and AKG K545. I also own the Fiio E12. The T1 SE MK3 has good synergy with both pairs of headphones. I will say though that the K545 is better sounding to me than the HP150, but that is a comparison review I may put up another day soon. I have done several tests using both headphones with the T1, and the K545 is definitely the better option. This is the same result with the Fiio E12, and any other gear I have tried as well. The K545 is just a better sounding headphone. I have never owned the T1 MK1 or MK2, so unfortunately I can not do a comparison. One complaint I do have with the stock tube on my SE MK3 is that at times the bass can be a tad slow and loose. It lacks tightness and refinement across the bass regions with heavy metal music which is my genre of choice. I am also noticing that the treble is somewhat tizzy and lacking some articulation. It is a bit of a mess in the upper frequencies on some tracks. I am about 8 hours in with the DAC/AMP so far. Other than the couple things mentioned, the T1 SE MK3 is offering a good experience with my K545, although not mind busting.
> 
> Edit: I just ended up ordering the Genalex Gold Lion E88CC Gold Pin version. I will update my impression of the T1 once the new tube arrives.


 
  
  
 Hey EVOLVIST, I posted the following above on the previous page. I am still burning it in, but I will say I am not totally satisfied with the stock tube. Out of the box, the T1 SE MK3 sounds good, but not amazing. Bass is lacking in tightness. It is just far too loose. Also, in the upper treble I can hear that tizzy and unrefined character. It is not as articulate as I would like. Soundstage though is fairly decent. Everything is nicely separated, and instrument location is easy to determine within songs. However, I know the Gold Lion E88CC I ordered will improve things drastically. I do wonder if the headphone amp section has been updated though in the latest MK3 revision. Tonight I decided to use the T1 just as a DAC, and connect my Fiio E12 to it to power my AKG K545. People may be surprised, but the sound quality was shockingly similar to when using the amp section in the T1 itself. The bass on the Fiio E12 was tighter, more detailed, and controlled, but in terms of soundstage the T1 was the winner. Everything was more broad, open, wide, and had that toe tapping character.


----------



## DW75

I opened my MK3 tonight to check for internal changes compared to previous revisions. Here is what I found.
  
 All PCBs are black instead of blue.
 STM8S003K3T6C  8 Bit Microcontroller
 Texas Instruments LE244A USB interface chip.
 Texas Instruments N5532A OPAMP for DAC section.
 Texas Instruments N5532A OPAMP for AMP section.
 DSD1793 DAC.
 XMOS chip.
  
 Interesting that the unit is not using the OPA2134 OPAMP for the DAC section. It is using another N5532A. Hopefully this helps anyone who was curious about changes.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Is it possible to roll opamp inside the t1 mk3?


----------



## DW75

williamleonhart said:


> Is it possible to roll opamp inside the t1 mk3?


 
  
 The opamps are soldered. If you are skilled with soldering then yes, it is possible.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

You could probably solder a socket onto it and then you could roll op amps.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Thanks for the answers.


----------



## DW75

My Genalex Gold Lion E88CC Gold Pin tube showed up yesterday. Oh my, what an awesome difference from the stock tube. After I burn it in for a few days I will toss up my thoughts. Right away though, the differences for the better are easily noticeable.


----------



## 2Dutch

dw75 said:


> My Genalex Gold Lion E88CC Gold Pin tube showed up yesterday. Oh my, what an awesome difference from the stock tube. After I burn it in for a few days I will toss up my thoughts. Right away though, the differences for the better are easily noticeable.


 

 I upgraded to this tube as well, and was also pleasantly surprised about the detail and difference compared to the stock tube. And the tube is easy to find and quite affordable!


----------



## 21quest

faezfarhan said:


> Received it.. Valid? Massive improvement in clarity tho


 

 Where did u get that? Im from Malaysia too


----------



## HeavenNotes

arcorob said:


> Really hard to say. Let me explain...
> 
> My rig has been geared toward vinyl. The phono stage and preamp are solid state and they exit via the Velleman tube amp. The Velleman is sweet and very much taliorable by the swapping of 12AX7 input tubes (Mullard, RCA, GE, Sylvania) all unique.
> 
> ...


 
 You are right.  I bought a GE ECC86 and it sounds as you described.  Thank you!


----------



## 21quest

2 years ago I got myself Hifiman HE400, and Aune T1 MK2 DAC, Ive been using the 2 ever since, right now finally I have some spare money to spend.
  
 Recently I wonder if a new amp can benefit my headphone to be used alongside the T1, like is it already fully driven?  Actually I have no issue with the volume at all, loud enough to not even go halfway the knob in the lowest gain, but after some reading, people said having another amp for the T1 would add more the bass and all that, I wonder if its really true? Because having a little more to that bass would be perfect.
  
 Im not looking to upgrade or replace these 2, because even with these, Im fully satisfied with the details and resolution even the soundstage these 2 bring that spending more into upgrading these 2 would be pointless,
  
 - There will be no substantial sonic difference but just different sound signature.
 - No difference between 24bits/96kHz and 32bits/384kHz
 - There is no headphone that can make me teleport into the recording studio
  
 I would probably buy a set of HD600 and maybe some new tubes along the way, and then just call it a day unless one of them broke down.
 With that said Im probably thinking to get the Schiit Magni 2, I just want somebody to assure me that it will make a difference, that it will fully drive my HE400


----------



## penmarker

You'll need to try it out yourself. If there's an audio store nearby, I'd suggest you go there with your T1 and test it out with different amps.
  
 Everyone's ears are different, and reviews are just touching the waters at best. One reviewer said the Matrix M-Stage is warm while another says it is totally neutral.
 So, YMMV.


----------



## risstakerelse

Hi all, I know lots of people ask this but at same price what I should get:

 Aune T1 mk2
  
 or 
  
 Maverick Audio D1 ( dac crystal 4398 + opamp ns lf343n x2 + tube nos 6n3 )
  
 ::) thnkss


----------



## teb1013

risstakerelse said:


> Hi all, I know lots of people ask this but at same price what I should get:
> 
> 
> Aune T1 mk2
> ...




Here's a thread on the Maverick that seems to suggest that the tube works with the pre-amp but not the headphone amp, but you'll have to read the whole thing. In the Aune, the tube works on the dac as a buffer. http://www.head-fi.org/t/507905/maverick-d1-for-headphone


----------



## teb1013

Just got a Schiit Vali 2, using the Aune T1 as DAC only. So far the quality of the sound is great. Seems to have more depth than the Anne's onboard amp, despite years of faithful service. I'm going to do some AB testing to see if I'm correct about the improvement.


----------



## penmarker

The amp section in the T1 is quite bright to me IMHO. My Lehmann Black Cube amp which is heralded as being neutral and flat sounds darker compared to the T1.
 Other than that, depending on what set of headphones you're wearing, there could be improvements or change of flavor.


----------



## godankorgohome

Okay I recently bought an aune t1 mk1 (silver one). After using it a bunch I fell in love but im having a huge issue, there is a ton of static on the right channel when its turned beyond half way. I switched from the factory tube to a Genalex Gold Lion *6922 *hoping maybe it was just the factory tube causing the interference, but it didn't solve my problem. The weird thing is at one point it went away then returned at a later point. It's almost like when i leave it on for a long period of time it works itself out some? other times it just stays there. I've tried multiple sets of headphones and 2 tubes so im 90% sure its the unit itself. I watched a tear down video and saw how sometimes they have lose solder down inside but i wanted to verify with some people here before I tore into it to check everything.


----------



## teb1013

godankorgohome said:


> Okay I recently bought an aune t1 mk1 (silver one). After using it a bunch I fell in love but im having a huge issue, there is a ton of static on the right channel when its turned beyond half way. I switched from the factory tube to a Genalex Gold Lion [COLOR=333333]*6922 *[/COLOR]hoping maybe it was just the factory tube causing the interference, but it didn't solve my problem. The weird thing is at one point it went away then returned at a later point. It's almost like when i leave it on for a long period of time it works itself out some? other times it just stays there. I've tried multiple sets of headphones and 2 tubes so im 90% sure its the unit itself. I watched a tear down video and saw how sometimes they have lose solder down inside but i wanted to verify with some people here before I tore into it to check everything.




My Aune T1 has slight static when I change the volume knob, tube selection doesn't matter. Because it doesn't happen except when I turn the knob, i never did anything about it and now I'm using a Schiit Vali2 as amp and the Aune as DAC only and it's dead silent. If the static is constant and isn't related to microphonics, I assume you will have to do something about it, because yours is a Mk1 (as is mine) I'm sure you don't have a warranty, but people have posted on here about contacting them and getting good results. Do a thread search, I wouldn't tear down the device myself, unless you have a lot of experience and knowledge. Have you tried to increase volume by using the dip switches so you don't have to turn this up beyond 1/2 way?


----------



## penmarker

Static or crackle sometimes can happen due to a bad capacitor. However I can't be sure unless it is opened and inspected.


----------



## godankorgohome

I flipped all the switches off underneath and the static isn't as bad but its still noticeable around 75% its just weird its only one channel. left channel is totally unaffected by this issue. Any ideas? I don't have experience tearing these down but it looked relatively easy to pull apart. I bought this second hand off reddit and I can't really send it back so I'd like to fix it. I can solder if it might be capacitor? My only concern is knowing which one.


----------



## godankorgohome

this is consistant static with a little hint of a popping sound every once in a while, like if i keep all the switches on the bottom to on i can only go about 35% before i hear the static in the right channel, I only start to notice it in the music at around 65-70%. I'm using hd 598se's.


----------



## penmarker

That sounds like a bad capacitor in the amplifier section of the unit. Try emailing Aune for a replacement board, with luck they'll be able to send one for you. One use several dozen pages back managed to get a replacement for $8 if I remember correctly. If you could get hold of it you won't need to solder anything, just do a board replacement.


----------



## sanvara

After ignoring my massdrop original T1 for a several years and letting it gather dust I just picked up a Amperex 7308. Using it with AT A900x and a foam and mesh screen modded Senn HD555. The 7308 / T1 combo is fantastic. The 900x sounds particularly good, a bit better than the 555. The music really soars. Very happy for such great sound on a relatively low budget like this.


----------



## appleidappleid

Hello, I have been using my T1se for a few weeks now and is planning to upgrade the tube. I am in the UK so ebay is probably my only source to buy new tubes. I am currently looking at the following. Which would be the best?
  
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECC88-CV5358-BRIMAR-NOS-BOXED-VALVE-TUBE-/310087990709?hash=item4832af3db5:gcoAAOSwDNdV5rdt
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6922-E88CC-ECC88-6DJ8-PHILIPS-ECG-VALVE-TUBE-/260662166606?hash=item3cb0ad044e:g:w3EAAOSwwpdW1vfV
 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECC88-6DJ8-SIEMENS-Ei-NOS-BOXED-VALVE-TUBE-/310930099354?hash=item4864e0cc9a:g:YfYAAOxylpNTS7iD
  
  
or does it worth paying a bit more for a used *Amperex Bugle Boy?*
  
*http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amperex-Bugle-Boy-6DJ8-ECC88-Tube-Valve-/152332194938?hash=item2377b4d47a:g:K6gAAOSwImRYOMIV*


----------



## appleidappleid

anyway has anyone opened up the T1se and photo it?


----------



## Chs177

appleidappleid said:


> I am in the UK so ebay is probably my only source to buy new tubes.


 
 You have a good source of tubes locally http://www.langrex.co.uk/.
 It is not cheapest one but have really good tubes. Choosing of tube depends on your headphones and taste. So you could ask peoples with same headphones and musical taste or just try various tubes.
 Just for example: First of your links (Brimar) is good tube for me. I have Siemens and Philips but I don't like it. Other peoples like Philips, another like Siemens.
 Good luck in your searching!


----------



## Metaboli

Hello fellow t1 user. This thread sold me the t1 and I just ordered it . I ordered an amperex 7308 jan usa white label to replace the stock tube as well. I was lucky enough to find one on ebay for only 30$ but it was tested 48/87 the 48 seems a little too low aspecially compared to the other triode. Is that an issue ? Maybe this price for the 7308 is too good to be true ...


----------



## teb1013

metaboli said:


> Hello fellow t1 user. This thread sold me the t1 and I just ordered it . I ordered an amperex 7308 jan usa white label to replace the stock tube as well. I was lucky enough to find one on ebay for only 30$ but it was tested 48/87 the 48 seems a little too low aspecially compared to the other triode. Is that an issue ? Maybe this price for the 7308 is too good to be true ...




Welcome to the Aune T1 club! I too have the 7308 Jan (1968 date!) a great tube. I don't know about the testing, mine was NOS and cost $50 for a "driver" tube a couple of years ago, I know they cost more than that, I've had good results with most things I've gotten through ebay, but there are horror stories out there as well. Let us know what you think of the T1 and how your tube "rotation" affects the sound. I had, at first feared that changing the tubes would be the type of thing you wouldn't notice (or needed to have "golden ears" to hear) but that isn't the case. The difference between tubes was quite pronounced in many cases and the 7308 is my favorite (my 2nd fave was a Siemens e88cc, which I now use with a Shiit Vali2 which I'm now using as an amp with the Aune DAC-the Aune amp served fine for some years before I upgraded the amp). By the way did you get MK 1, 2 or 3 on the Aune, mine is a 1.


----------



## Metaboli

I bought the aune t1 se I guess it is an equivalent to the mk3 since the product is listed as the t1 mk2 successor.Is the improvement between each model substantial ?


----------



## NCSUZoSo

Hey guys/gals,
  
 Been a loooong time since I posted in the thread that probably played a role in me going back to get my Electrical Engineering degree.  However I just purchased a new toy and wanted to get some opinions on my current setup and how it will do with these.
  
 So I will be switching from SoundMagic HP150's to Audeze EL-8 (open-backs) and I was wondering if anyone with a similar setup has these headphones?


----------



## mikoss

The EL-8 open are better than the closed, and they have the Audeze house sound. Compared to dynamic drivers, I'd expect more bass, and faster transients. It's been years since I heard the EL-8's, but I remember comparing them side by side with the LCD-3F's and they seemed to have a similar sound. Warmish overall response, not terribly prickly treble. 

Are you going to be using the T1 to drive them? I've found playnars to benefit from an amp that can push current, as opposed to huge voltage swing, which dynamics tend to favour. Either way, the amp of the T1 does neither well. On a budget, I'd recommend the O2 for playnars. It actually does a semi decent job. As for a DAC upgrade from the T1... The Geek Out v2A is really effing good. It destroys the T1.


----------



## Chs177

mikoss said:


> It destroys the T1.


 
 As combo as DAC/amp for sure. T1 have good DAC part (musical and enjoyable with good tube). I have Sabre DAC (NFB-11 from Audio- GD). I think that it have same level as GreekOut advised by you. I still prefer Aune T1 as DAC only. I will show one photo for you:

 Fortunately I have good tubes for both these devices.


----------



## teb1013

chs177 said:


> As combo as DAC/amp for sure. T1 have good DAC part (musical and enjoyable with good tube). I have Sabre DAC (NFB-11 from Audio- GD). I think that it have same level as GreekOut advised by you. I still prefer Aune T1 as DAC only. I will show one photo for you:
> 
> 
> Fortunately I have good tubes for both these devices.




As I commented above, the Aune T1 has a fine DAC. Even the little Schiit Vali2 improves on the Aune amp considerably but I see no need to upgrade the DAC at this point. With good tubes of course.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> The EL-8 open are better than the closed, and they have the Audeze house sound. Compared to dynamic drivers, I'd expect more bass, and faster transients. It's been years since I heard the EL-8's, but I remember comparing them side by side with the LCD-3F's and they seemed to have a similar sound. Warmish overall response, not terribly prickly treble.
> 
> Are you going to be using the T1 to drive them? I've found playnars to benefit from an amp that can push current, as opposed to huge voltage swing, which dynamics tend to favour. Either way, the amp of the T1 does neither well. On a budget, I'd recommend the O2 for playnars. It actually does a semi decent job. As for a DAC upgrade from the T1... The Geek Out v2A is really effing good. It destroys the T1.


 

 Appreciate your input on your experience with them.
  
 Nah I haven't had the T1 amplifier board even installed since 2013 or so, haha.  I will be driving these with a Schiit Magni 2 at home and the few times I do take the Audeze EL-8's with me, I'll be driving them with a FiiO E12 DIY w/ a Burson Audio V5i-D op-amp.

 Although, I am in the process of designing a full tube headphone pre-amp and amp in one housing as part of one of my design assignments in Electrical Engineering.


----------



## mikoss

Nice, that should be an awesome project. 

I really enjoyed the T1, but having had a chance to listen to some other DACs, I have to say that it isn't exactly a knockout. 

With a decent tube, it has the ability to sound very musical, but ultimately, the TI chip lacks overall clarity. It tends to sound warm and congested, with an overall emphasis on the midrange. The treble can definitely come across as more natural sounding than some Sabre implementations, and the tube buffer also allows for some beautiful euphonics. 

I realize that it's priced below $200, but for the sake of comparison, the Modi Multibit is now fierce competition. It sounds more sophisticated than the T1, from top to bottom, without an overall emphasis on any particular frequency. The bass is more sophisticated and robust, the mids remove a layer of muddyness that may not be apparent until it's gone, and the treble remains relaxed, but more natural in tone and timbre. 

The multibit modi would be my recommendation as a standalone DAC to compare with the T1, which I believe isn't even close. The TI chip on the T1 is inferior at overall resolution, despite any tube magic (and the tube magic is what sets the T1 apart from other budget oriented DACs). The natural sound invoked by the tube is present in spades with the MB modi, without the same level of overall distortion. The MB modi is by no means haze free... Comparing to the MB Gungnir, another level of detail is exposed, along with further ease of presentation, and less smear. Ditto MB Gungnir vs Yggdrasil, however the comparison is less stark. 

Sabre implentation is also a very tricky thing. At its worst, the treble is absolutely terrible. At its best, it's artfully tuned, to the point where the treble is tastefully relaxed, however lacking the natural presentation of other DACs. I haven't heard many AGD offerings myself, so I have no idea if they've been able to tune the Sabre chip the way Larry Ho has (which is no small accomplishment). 

There are a lot of budget DACs that mostly all sound relatively the same. When you hear something special, it really makes you realize the level of attention to design that can have an overall effect on a DAC. Throwing a tube buffer on a relatively cheap design can only get you so far. (I don't mean any disrespect to Aune either, but I strongly urge anyone interested in the T1 to consider the strong competition now available).


----------



## penmarker

Currently I've replaced my T1 with a Matrix Mini-I for a DAC and its somewhat better than the T1. Overall presentation is a lot more pleasant, but I can't break down the individual improvements. For the money, the Mini-I is a great bargain because you get all of the different types of digital inputs and analog outputs. I've recently got myself a Chromecast Audio, and the optical out is feeding my optical in on the Mini-I and the USB is for the computer. Maybe if I get a CD transport I could use its coax out to my coax in as well.


----------



## NCSUZoSo

mikoss said:


> I realize that it's priced below $200, but for the sake of comparison, the Modi Multibit is now fierce competition. It sounds more sophisticated than the T1, from top to bottom, without an overall emphasis on any particular frequency. The bass is more sophisticated and robust, the mids remove a layer of muddyness that may not be apparent until it's gone, and the treble remains relaxed, but more natural in tone and timbre.
> 
> The multibit modi would be my recommendation as a standalone DAC to compare with the T1


 
  
 It must be a good one, it is sold out completely right now!


----------



## godankorgohome

so I've continued having issues with my t1 mk1 and I've emailed the sales email from aunes site atleast 5 times now without a reply in weeks. Is there any other options to get one of these repaired? I just want to have an amp/dac again for my headphones lol


----------



## wolfmath

godankorgohome said:


> so I've continued having issues with my t1 mk1 and I've emailed the sales email from aunes site atleast 5 times now without a reply in weeks. Is there any other options to get one of these repaired? I just want to have an amp/dac again for my headphones lol


 
 I'm also trying to find somewhere to get a new EU power brick for a trip. I emailed the authorized U.S. retailer and got a terse response that they don't carry that item.


----------



## HeavenNotes

wolfmath said:


> I'm also trying to find somewhere to get a new EU power brick for a trip. I emailed the authorized U.S. retailer and got a terse response that they don't carry that item.


 
 Hello
  
 You would try to contact http://www.earthcitysoundco.com/


----------



## tinker

I have the AUNE T1SE MK3.
  
 In OSX both Yosemite and Sierra, I cannot change the format to 2ch-24bit integer. What can I do? if anything? Thanks


----------



## steffinger92

Has anyone compared or owned an original T1 _and _a T1 SE? Are there audible differences? I think about upgrading to the T1 SE...


----------



## wolfmath

heavennotes said:


> Hello
> 
> You would try to contact http://www.earthcitysoundco.com/


 
 I assume you mean contact them directly. Their website only appears to have guitar pedals.


----------



## Chs177

steffinger92 said:


> Has anyone compared or owned an original T1 _and _a T1 SE? Are there audible differences? I think about upgrading to the T1 SE... :


 
 No one?
 I would like to know about this comparison too.


----------



## audiofrog

Okay- I love the Aune T1 WHEN it is working properly- great tube sound and tube rolling really does make a difference. But with the Aune T1, I have periodic deafening, jarring, HORRIBLE, static noise that occasionally occurs and then stops a few seconds latter. I had my unit replaced by the company; however, the noise continues to occur. Anyone have an idea of why this might occur? I've tried different headphones, USB ports, etc. but the problem still remains.


----------



## trellus

audiofrog said:


> Okay- I love the Aune T1 WHEN it is working properly- great tube sound and tube rolling really does make a difference. But with the Aune T1, I have periodic deafening, jarring, HORRIBLE, static noise that occasionally occurs and then stops a few seconds latter. I had my unit replaced by the company; however, the noise continues to occur. Anyone have an idea of why this might occur? I've tried different headphones, USB ports, etc. but the problem still remains.


 

 Does it do this with different computers?  Have you tried it on another computer?  (Could be signal noise from poorly shielded internals in the computer.)
  
 Is there anything near by that might cause radio interference, e.g., cell phone or WiFi access point or router?


----------



## audiofrog

Hi Trellus- thank you for the reply! There's no router/acesspoint nearby. I'll try a different location and different computer and see if that might help. I wouldn't think there would be issues with the MacBook Air that I was using


----------



## trellus

audiofrog said:


> Hi Trellus- thank you for the reply! There's no router/acesspoint nearby. I'll try a different location and different computer and see if that might help. I wouldn't think there would be issues with the MacBook Air that I was using


 

 Apple products are usually pretty well built (I have a MacBook, also) but testing it with another computer at least might help establish whether the Aune does this consistently with other computers or just a particular one.
  
 How often does it happen?
  
 Also, if you happen to have another DAC/amp you can test with your MacBook, that might give you another data point as well.


----------



## teb1013

audiofrog said:


> Okay- I love the Aune T1 WHEN it is working properly- great tube sound and tube rolling really does make a difference. But with the Aune T1, I have periodic deafening, jarring, HORRIBLE, static noise that occasionally occurs and then stops a few seconds latter. I had my unit replaced by the company; however, the noise continues to occur. Anyone have an idea of why this might occur? I've tried different headphones, USB ports, etc. but the problem still remains.




What source are you using? I occasionally found interference with Tidal early on, but no problem since then. My Aune T1 (type 1) has provided trouble free service except for some static when changing the volume (I have since begun to use a Schiit Vali 2 as amp with the T1 for DAC only and there is no remaining problem so i guess it was the volume itself). Unless you are using the same sporadically defective tube (with both units), I would hazard a guess that you haven't had two defective T1s with exactly the same problem. I have used my T1 mainly with an iPad3 and more recently with an iPad Pro also with an iPhone 6 and, occasionally an older iMac with no problem (I assume that you are using a USB out). Have you switched your cables? Sorry just throwing stuff out here. Let us know what happens.


----------



## penmarker

My unit also has this weird distortion problem, but it mainly happens if I leave it on for a while and not shut down my laptop - going into hibernation. So when it runs later, it will play at like half the speed with deep distortion almost like a demonic voice. I'll restart it and it'll work again no problem. 
  
 Still don't know what causes it though. I've upgraded to the Matrix Mini-I, it has AES/EBU, optical, USB, and Coax so I'm very happy with it. Since my laptop only has USB out, I can't use the T1 together with the Matrix. Unless I got another laptop though. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 
  
 Mine is the T1 Mk2.


----------



## audiofrog

I continue to explore and wonder if it's when I play music from an external drive ? Doesn't seem to make any sounds when streaming or playing local files


----------



## Salvatore

joeq70 said:


> Hey guys I have a question for you all....How many tubes have you gone through using the Aune T1? I ask because since I started this thread back in 2012 not a single tube has died on me yet. Granted, I do use different tubes at different times but still...seems like tubes live a long time in this thing.


 
  
 Same here not a single one has died since my first tube purchase.


----------



## hdtv00

Yep only one that's died on me is the one I dropped....my fav one too.


----------



## penmarker

The tube is only for buffering and not actual amplification stage. It's not under a lot of stress and doesn't heat up as much as pure tube amps.
Even then, tubes are rated for several thousand hours. Basically means we're all good to go for a long time.


----------



## teb1013

joeq70 said:


> Hey guys I have a question for you all....How many tubes have you gone through using the Aune T1? I ask because since I started this thread back in 2012 not a single tube has died on me yet. Granted, I do use different tubes at different times but still...seems like tubes live a long time in this thing.




Joel,

I've had the Aune T1 for 3 years now. I still use the Amperex 7308 (1968 vintage) which I got after a short period of tube rolling. I now use the T1 as a DAC only and use a Schiit Vali2 (with a Siemens tube that you traded with me). Seeing that the tube is a buffer only on the DAC of the T1, I doubt that there is any change in stress because I am no longer using the T1 amp. I use this unit almost every day for the past 3 years for several hours each but the tube shows no signs of failure.


----------



## bilowuf

Hello. I just ordered at ad 900x headphones which are half open as i never liked fully closed headphones. Purpose for it will be mainly gaming & music listening (wide spectrum of it e.g. dubstep dnb hip hop rock metal including death metal) Now I'm wondering about proper dac for those headphones. After some researching I narrowed my choices to two products which are both made by aune T1 SE and x1s. Could you guys suggest which one of those would pair up better with 900x sound representation characteristics?
Also I'm wandering does adding that dedicated power supply for T1 named aune xp1 makes that dac sound better/different? And the same question is for aunes headphone amp x7s i believe.
Occasionally I would hook it up to my speaker system which includes Roksan Caspian m1 integrated amp and monitor audio gs 40 (or 60) speakers but I don't believe those dacs will do any good for it as recently I've tested it with audio gd nfb 11.32 dac and it literally sounded the same as my pc onboard sound card. Ive returned it as for my purposes it was an overkill for its price. I need something strictly headphone oriented so t1 or x1s. Question is which one?


----------



## HeavenNotes

I have had mine for more than 5 years and I'm in love with it.  I really encourage you to but a CCa tube.  It is a huge improvment. 
  
 I have found that a good USB cable will also improve the sound.
  
 If you enjoy rock you have to have a Grado headphone.  You will not come back to other headphones ever.  
  
 My 0.02.


----------



## GirgleMirt

Is anyone having an issue where you need to unplug the USB cable and replug it to get any sound?  Started to happen maybe a month ago on a laptop, seemed to just die one day and after fiddling found that USB replug solves the issue...  I just moved the Aune to a pc thinking it was an issue with the laptop, and lo and behold same thing happens on PC...  It's not a volume issue, it's not a selected device issue, it's really that the USB cable needs to be unplugged and replugged... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





   Otherwise works flawlessly!   (Original Aune T1 with original tube, 4 years old)


----------



## joeq70

girglemirt said:


> Is anyone having an issue where you need to unplug the USB cable and replug it to get any sound?  Started to happen maybe a month ago on a laptop, seemed to just die one day and after fiddling found that USB replug solves the issue...  I just moved the Aune to a pc thinking it was an issue with the laptop, and lo and behold same thing happens on PC...  It's not a volume issue, it's not a selected device issue, it's really that the USB cable needs to be unplugged and replugged...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 I had an issue like this a couple years ago, and it was solved for me by using a different USB cable.


----------



## GirgleMirt

joeq70 said:


> I had an issue like this a couple years ago, and it was solved for me by using a different USB cable.


 
 Sadly, it is a different USB cable... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 
  
 Oh, and also, has anyone ever modded their T1 to remove the light, dim it or change its color?  I like the natural orange glow of the tube, but the white light kinda overwhelms the tube...


----------



## Chs177

girglemirt said:


> Oh, and also, has anyone ever modded their T1 to remove the light, dim it or change its color?  I like the natural orange glow of the tube, but the white light kinda overwhelms the tube...


 
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wholesale-4pcs-1500V-Black-9Pin-Bakelite-Vacuum-Tube-Socket-Saver-Base-Electronic-Components-For-12AX7-12AU7/32693055451.html 
 This socket saver will block white light.


----------



## Metaboli

Hi everyone , I am currently using my aune T1 simultaneously on my tv and my computer using the usb output on the pc and the rca one for the TV but the TV sound way worse than the pc due to I believe the fact that the rca output dont use the tube. I mainly use my TV with my Wii U , is there a way to connect the usb output directly to the Wii U or the TV using a converter or something ? I tried pluging the aune into the usb port on the Wii U but it doesn't worked and my TV only have hdmi and rca output.


----------



## penmarker

metaboli said:


> Hi everyone , I am currently using my aune T1 simultaneously on my tv and my computer using the usb output on the pc and the rca one for the TV but the TV sound way worse than the pc due to I believe the fact that the rca output dont use the tube. I mainly use my TV with my Wii U , is there a way to connect the usb output directly to the Wii U or the TV using a converter or something ? I tried pluging the aune into the usb port on the Wii U but it doesn't worked and my TV only have hdmi and rca output.


 
 Unfortunately no. Aune T1 must receive any digital signals through USB, and they are coded differently compared to toslink. I'm sure your tv has toslink (either a Coaxial or Optical audio out). There are Digital to Digital Converters (DDC) but they're usually for USB to toslink. It might be expensive to find one that converts toslink to USB.


----------



## HerrWallen

New Aune T1(se) owner here with somewhere close to 30 hours listening, rolling a few tubes and generally enjoying the device.
 So far I like the added warmth and general fun-factor compared to my other DAC/AMPs which includes Dragonly Red, EncoreMDSD, Behringer UCA202, Sound Blaster E5, Xonar U7 and Hifiberry DAC Pro+  
  
 As others already stated the amplifier is the only part that is lacking to my ears, admittedly I am comparing to my Ifi ICAN SE which is a solid step up.
  
 One Q regarding to the built-in amp: it seems to me that the amp is unchanged trough the revisions, would it therefor be possible to do the cap-mod on the T1se as well?
  
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-ss-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq-updated-on-02-14-15/6165#post_10977354
 https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/238148-diy-replacingupgrading-capacitors-on-the-aune-t1-image-heavy/
  
 Even tough I have a perfectly good amp in the ICAN, I would prefer a slightly better output from a single device those times I need a bit of "portability".


----------



## DW75

For anyone who has this device, Aune has a new driver up on their website now. It appeared there about a week ago. It is an updated XMOS driver for the MK2 and MK3 version. Just click on T1se on the left, and the driver will be available to download.
  
 http://en.auneaudio.com/index.php?s=/Home/Article/gjxzhz.html


----------



## thendawg

Just thought Id chime in on this thread. Ive had my Aune T1 (1st gen) for a little over a year now. Used it with DT990's, HD600's, ATH-M50's, and now my HE-400S. Its honestly a great DAC. I purchased the Genelex (Sp?) Gold Lion tube off the recommendation from this thread (1st post) and felt it had a nice warmth to it over the stock tube - it filtered it to giving a sound more in line with what Im used to from actual tube amps. Ive never tried any other's with it, but havent ruled it out in the future. I recently upgraded to a Schiit Magni 2U and kept the T1 as a DAC - I can definitely say even with headphones that are fairly sensitive and lowish impedance, the magni 2U made a substantial improvement from the built in amp. When I saw this, it made me think, maybe I need to try a modi dac - so I did - well turns out I ended up selling the Modi 2U I picked up. I would def say its more neutral, but I still strongly prefer the warmer sound of the T1. So Id say thats one of the T1's biggest pluses - even if you decide you want a better amp down the road, you still have an amazing DAC.


----------



## wolfmath

thendawg said:


> Just thought Id chime in on this thread. Ive had my Aune T1 (1st gen) for a little over a year now. Used it with DT990's, HD600's, ATH-M50's, and now my HE-400S. Its honestly a great DAC. I purchased the Genelex (Sp?) Gold Lion tube off the recommendation from this thread (1st post) and felt it had a nice warmth to it over the stock tube - it filtered it to giving a sound more in line with what Im used to from actual tube amps. Ive never tried any other's with it, but havent ruled it out in the future. I recently upgraded to a Schiit Magni 2U and kept the T1 as a DAC - I can definitely say even with headphones that are fairly sensitive and lowish impedance, the magni 2U made a substantial improvement from the built in amp. When I saw this, it made me think, maybe I need to try a modi dac - so I did - well turns out I ended up selling the Modi 2U I picked up. I would def say its more neutral, but I still strongly prefer the warmer sound of the T1. So Id say thats one of the T1's biggest pluses - even if you decide you want a better amp down the road, you still have an amazing DAC.


 
 I've read a review (unfortunately I forgot where) that said the T1 sounded better than the modi/magni stack. 
  
 I listen to my HD6XX, Fidelio X2, and AKG K7XX's with the T1 se. I tried the Gold Lion tube (also as mentioned on the first post), but it was too dark for me. The only headphones that sounded good with the Gold Lion were the AKGs. I just used the stock tube now and it sounds great.
  
 I'm getting a Bottlehead Crack soon, so I'll be using the T1 as a dedicated DAC. It's nice to know others who have found it to be a high quality DAC. I've noticed that the DAC is powered by USB, so the amp can be turned off while the DAC is still on. It just needs to be plugged into the computer. EDIT: The DAC is not powered by USB.


----------



## penmarker

wolfmath said:


> I'm getting a Bottlehead Crack soon, so I'll be using the T1 as a dedicated DAC. It's nice to know others who have found it to be a high quality DAC. I've noticed that the DAC is powered by USB, so the amp can be turned off while the DAC is still on. It just needs to be plugged into the computer.


 
Really?
I imagined the tube would need more power than what's available from USB. Never tried it myself.
  
 Wait my unit doesn't run on USB alone. I just remembered I've go it connected but not turned on in several occasions.


----------



## wolfmath

penmarker said:


> Really?
> I imagined the tube would need more power than what's available from USB. Never tried it myself.
> 
> Wait my unit doesn't run on USB alone. I just remembered I've go it connected but not turned on in several occasions.


 
 Well I just put my foot in my mouth.
  
 I was excited because my computer recognized the T1's DAC while it was off. The same cannot be said of other DAC/Amps I've got.


----------



## SirBashALot

I recently acquired the Aune T1 and within less than a month of having it I went on a spree of buying tubes. This is simply the only downside to this awesome little device.
  
 I highly recommend this to anyone who doesn't want to spend much on a DAC/amp combination. It offers an astounding improvement over integrated DACs in desktops/laptops. Also, it offers a clear and very pleasant improvement over entry level DAC/Amps like the Fiio e10k, SMSL M2/M3, and arguably even the Schiit stack. I am yet to extensively compare Schiit stack to the Aune T1 however I will post results as I go.
  
 The ability to roll tubes allows one to experience unique sounds with each tube at a smaller cost than purchasing new cans. Then again some tubes have cost me a lot 
  
 Finally the Aune T1 offers the option to use a line out to speakers or another amp(while still taking advantage of the tubey sound since the Aune T1 has what one may call a tube DAC) which adds to its value. Even on my little bluetooth speaker using the line in, I notice an improvement of sound.
  
 In conclusion, I cannot be happier with my purchase, especially since I got this used at an awesome price.


----------



## GirgleMirt

wolfmath said:


> I've read a review (unfortunately I forgot where) that said the T1 sounded better than the modi/magni stack.


 
 Define "better".  
  
 I've switched my T1 work amp with my home Magni/Modi, and for me the big lines are; modi/magni is neutral & more detailed, T1 is colored & warmer.  So imho it depends on the headphone...  And even then, it can be a tradeoff... For instance, with the hifiman HE400i, do you want the extra warmth of the T1 or added detail/speed of the Schiits?
  
*thendawg *mentionned the Beyers 990s.. I have the Premiums 600ohms, and imho, the Schiit stack wins hands down, for some reason, with the T1, the highs of the 990s sounded _really weird_...  Likely because colored amp + similarly colored headphone = overdose of coloration...  I'll have to listen again, but my 1st reaction was..  Errr...  That's not good...
  
 But, T1 seemed to give quite a jolt to Senns HD598 and AKG Q701s, as in, kinda seemed to enhance the headphones!  I was surprised that the T1 seemed to improve them quite a bit, so in that case, imho T1 wins.  At work, the AKG K550s already seem to me as being warm headphones, so the Schiit seem to improve (make them bit more neutral) them in that sense, and because they're closed/dynamic (do well as having a beefy/meaty sound with impact, solid bass), I think I'd rather have the Schiit with them & make them a bit more neutral & tad bit more detailed, as they're not the most detailed out there...  But that said, it's quite close vs the T1, I really don't mind either, T1 on some tracks would likely do better...  Almost a toss up.
  
 And to go back to the HE400i, because of their somewhat new for me & seem to be a big step up of my other headphones, I'm liking the bit of extra weight the T1 gives them, but at the same time, I'm somewhat feeling like they're not driven as well as with the Schiits and I'm missing layer of detail/realism/musicality/clarity (whatever you want to call it) of the Schiits...  It's not _huge_, and I've not directly compared them, but the Schiit in that case, with a tiny bit of EQ would, IMHO, edge out the T1...  For these cans, I think the T1 sounds a bit more 'lowfi'; not quite as resolving, so holds back the 400i more than the Modi/Magni...
  
 So what is it...  Two to two?  Schiit wins AKG550 & HE400i and T1 wins AKG Q701 and HD598?  A draw?  Fine with me!  I think my recommendation would vary depending on the headphones!  Oh...  All that is with the original tube though!   Oooh... oh crap.. 990...  Oh well whatever quite close overall imho..!


----------



## wolfmath

girglemirt said:


> Define "better".


 
 I found the review! Headfonia was reviewing the Modi/ Magni from the point of view of the T1 (seems kinda weird to me since the T1 isn't as main stream). 
  
 http://www.headfonia.com/schitty-magni-and-modi/2/  
  
 "The Aune T1 DAC/amp sounds almost identically the same but due to tube customization and it being both a DAC and a very good amplifier all by itself, I am going to say the Schiit combo is a step or two behind the Aune in quality. I think the T1 offers more."


----------



## SirBashALot

I definitely agree with the that statement you quoted.


----------



## SirBashALot

girglemirt said:


> Define "better".
> 
> I've switched my T1 work amp with my home Magni/Modi, and for me the big lines are; modi/magni is neutral & more detailed, T1 is colored & warmer.  So imho it depends on the headphone...  And even then, it can be a tradeoff... For instance, with the hifiman HE400i, do you want the extra warmth of the T1 or added detail/speed of the Schiits?
> 
> ...


 
 Thank you for sharing your impressions.
  
 However, considering you only tested the Aune T1 with the stock tube, I think you are not doing it justice. Sure you might have to invest a little extra into some good tubes but in my view, only then do you truly enjoy the full value of the Aune T1.
  
 Please keep in mind, I have only had the Aune for a relatively short time but I am truly enjoying it.


----------



## GirgleMirt

Alright I'll bite!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





  What's an easily obtainable affordable tube to upgrade the base Electro Harmonix 6922EH?  There's a _ton _of tubes mentioned in this thread, but they all point to very specific brands & are all rare & vintage and expensive and all...  Ex: I'm trying to find say where to buy just an E188CC tube in Canada, there's a tubeworld which sells a pair for 250$...  Ebay have 2x E188CC for 300$...  It seems that one simply does go to google to buy a tube...  I feel like I've become an archeologist looking for some rare fossil...!
  
 Say I want to buy this:
 Quote arcorob: 





> *GE Labeled SIEMENS 6AQ8 ECC85 GERMANY - cant make out date code 5.0 Stars *****/* This bad boy is amazing, Soundstage impresses you immediately as does the detail. This and my other GE labeled tube will knock your socks off.  Would make anyone happy -this 6AQ8 which I think has a tad better soundstage (by a thumbnail) but also just a thumbnail less bass. . I listened to about 12 different type songs and could find no wrong EXCEPT some heavy metal tune by Nickelback and that may be the mastering, I need to check. But all other cuts, gorgeous. Vocals will make your head spin and take notice.


 
 I get all sorts of results for "*6AQ8 ECC85*" from 9.99$ to 99.99$, so it's not just the model number, it's the brand, year, color, etc.? I guess that would be it?   Sigh... 50 bucks USD...  Add shipping, taxes, brokerage, exchange, etc., just that 1 tube would end up to like 85$US in Canada...  And....  Maybe it's not the same year so it might sound very different?
  
 Seems like I'm missing something because this seems like not only a big hassle, but also a big gamble and way more complicated than it should be... Or is this the nature of tubes?  I mean...  T1 seemed like a good deal, so I ordered it and have a T1, just like everybody else.  Simple!  Now, looking for a tube upgrade, it's almost like I've become a stamp collector & have to not only find a particular Hugme Boat stamp from dec 23rd 1962, but one with the blue dot on the left side of the 3rd letter beneath the 3rd wave, because that's the one that you want and the others might be completely different and crap...!
  
 So just to get this straight, when you want to buy a tube, you are basically hunting for vintage tubes made in the 1960's???  There's basically no modern company who's offering a cheap modern tube that works great & makes hunting for vintage tubes obsolete?  I'm getting depressed...


----------



## SpiderNhan

GirgleMirt
I was hesitant to get into the tube game also. I've only bought 3 to date and out of those one didn't sound much different than the stock tube.

However, 2 of them completely blew my mind. The first was an 1969 Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8($40 give or take), and the second was a PQ 7308($50-60?) that I can't remember the exact details on, but they essentially sound the same. The dud was a Bugle Boy($40) with most of the etching rubbed off that I picked up at a local bits and pieces store. Wasn't worth the effort or the money.

Now I can't guarantee that this tube

http://m.ebay.ca/itm/Amperex-Holland-6DJ8-ECC88-Orange-Globe-strong-NIB-NOS-halo-getter-tube-/162414329739?nav=SEARCH

will sound like mine, but if it does your ears will thank you.

I wasn't impressed with my T1 until that Orange Globe entered my life. I hope it can do the same for you.


----------



## SirBashALot

girglemirt said:


> Alright I'll bite!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
 Hey man.
 I understand your pain. I too live in Canada. It took me a lot of time to learn about all the different tubes the Aune T1 sounds good with. I'd be happy to discuss with you. PM me.


----------



## GirgleMirt

Thx pm'd!
  
 Quote:


> Now I can't guarantee that this tube [link] will sound like mine, but if it does your ears will thank you.


 
 Yeah well that's what I meant by gambling... Also, it doesn't even appear to be new!  (_'measure new'_?!  Ok wait true we're talking tubes so it's all vintage stuff, there's basically no 'new' tubes.. Sorry, will take some time for my brain to adjust...)  So am I really going to spend US $26.00 + US $26.00 shipping + 15% tax + 10$ brokerage + misc fees for something which, as you've described, might not be worth the time and effort?  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



  
 I don't know... I guess I'll go check the local shops, they sell some tube stuff so should have some... Guess check out their stock, prices, etc...  Maybe do some more tube research, see if there's a decent way to find/buy tubes, or some good simple tube choice that's affordable & easily purchasable...  And man...  This only has one tube.  I'm so happy I didn't purchase any full blown tube amp which has like 10 of them!!!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




   With 4 of those giant ones which probably cost even more...!


----------



## hdtv00

1969 Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 as mentioned if you ask me , it should be everyones first tube. I've got one for as little as $10-15 US dollars. And the others are also right the thing is crap with the stock tube.


----------



## SirBashALot

hdtv00 said:


> 1969 Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8 as mentioned if you ask me , it should be everyones first tube. I've got one for as little as $10-15 US dollars. And the others are also right the thing is crap with the stock tube.


 
  
 For the price, the Orange Globe is an awesome tube. It definitely is a great choice for one's first tube. I wouldn't say crap with the stock tube but nothing stood out. It sounds decent.
  
 Personally, I'm enjoying having a wide variety of tubes, each with their own flavour. And these tubes are just so damn cool, gotta catch em all!


----------



## GirgleMirt

Thanks I'll try to see if I can find one!  Is there like a massive difference between brands/years though?  I've seen some GE, National, JJ, Rogers, etc., tubes which would fit, mostly from like 8-25$cdn (6-17$US), so I might just order a couple to play around...  Or would this be a waste of time and money and you really have to get one of the 'good' brand/year/model to have a tube which will be an upgrade to the default EH tube?


----------



## SirBashALot

girglemirt said:


> Thanks I'll try to see if I can find one!  Is there like a massive difference between brands/years though?  I've seen some GE, National, JJ, Rogers, etc., tubes which would fit, mostly from like 8-25$cdn (6-17$US), so I might just order a couple to play around...  Or would this be a waste of time and money and you really have to get one of the 'good' brand/year/model to have a tube which will be an upgrade to the default EH tube?


 
 The general consensus is the older tubes sound better. Now that isn't a rule of thumb but reviews/impressions from several sources indicate so. In other words, if you can get say a Bugle Boy from the early 1960s vs 1970s, it _should _sound better.
  
 In regards to brands, generally speaking the best tubes are anything by Philips(Amperex, Valvo included), Siemens, and Mullard.
  
 You could have some fun with cheap tubes like the ones you named. However, to see a clear improvement over stock tube I suggest you invest in one of the better tubes. You don't have to spend much either.


----------



## wgkwgk

Jumping in here.  I did some rolling when I had my T1.  Fun.  I do have 3-4 higher-end tubes, all NOS  sitting around I'd sell.  If interested, LMK.


----------



## Metaboli

Hello , I have seen some people in this thread mentionning how they managed to use their aune T1 in usb mode connected to their ps4.I would love to do this with my own ps4 but unfortunaly nothing happen when I plug the usb cable into my ps4. Should I change something in my console's setting or do I need an external device to do the trick ?


----------



## HeavenNotes

Hello.  I installed the new version of macOS and now  I have sound  problems.  Any help please


----------



## GirgleMirt

wolfmath said:


> I found the review! Headfonia was reviewing the Modi/ Magni from the point of view of the T1 (seems kinda weird to me since the T1 isn't as main stream).
> 
> http://www.headfonia.com/schitty-magni-and-modi/2/
> 
> "The Aune T1 DAC/amp sounds almost identically the same but due to tube customization and it being both a DAC and a very good amplifier all by itself, I am going to say the Schiit combo is a step or two behind the Aune in quality. I think the T1 offers more."


 
  
 Alright, so I've repatriated the Magni and Modi stack.  I've got the Schiit Magni (1) hooked up to the Aune T1 (mk1) via RCA and am switching back and forth between them to compare amplification, both are using the T1's DAC.  To be honest, I didn't expect to hear a significant difference.  Here's my thoughts going back and forth the Magni & T1 amplification. 
  
 Using *Hifiman 400i*:
 The Magni definitely sounds 'cleaner' than the T1.  The T1 has a sort of 'muffled' sound to it, first time going from Magni to T1, I thought 'molasses' for some reason...  The Magni has a noticeable edge in terms of detail/clarity, for instance, the decay of piano can be lost on the T1 and very clear/detailed on the Magni.  The highs also seem to have a bit more shimmer than the T1, might have to do with the 'muffle' sound described earlier, but the Magni's highs are definitely 'sparklier'.  The bass is a little bit better controlled on the Magni, drums for instance feel a lot tighter on the Magni, while the T1 seems to add some weight to the bass, but it is definitely less controlled.  Imaging also seems more precise on the Magni, the T1 seems to smear a bit everything making every sound seems 'wider' & a tad bigger.  The T1 also seems to have a bit darker sound to it.
  
 In other words, it sounds like I was not mistaken in my impression of T1 vs Magni.  The Magni does indeed sound much 'cleaner'...  Tighter, more controlled, better defined, there is a significant difference between both, and IMHO, it is clear that the Magni's amplification is better than the T1's!  I thought all these attributes might have come from the Dac's tube, but nope, the T1's amplification is at least partially guilty for the difference of sound of Schiit vs Aune.   That said, the 400i I think is pushing the T1 maybe beyond its limits. 
  
 Switching to *Sennheiser 598. *
 Right away, to match the volume of 400i, Winamp's volume (flac) went from 100% to about 40% which should help out the T1 if it was having trouble with the 400i.  First impression is that the difference is a bit less than on the 400i, but after going back and forth a couple of times, I'd say that pretty much everything said above holds true.  The Magni definitely still holds the edge vs the T1.  Everything seems a bit 'lighter' on the Magni, the T1 does have a darker sound, with everything being not as detailed/precise as the Magni. 
  
 Then time for the venerable *AKG Q701*. 
 Wow those suckers keep pleasing, even vs 400i, which given retail difference of both, shouldn't be that fun to listen to, are... *great cans*.   Anyway, keeping this short, same story.  Definitely sounds cleaner.  In french, there's a word; "grossier": "coarse".  I think it defines well the difference between between Magni and T1's amp sections, the Magni's is definitely 'finer'.   The decay is much better, everything is tighter, better defined, more detailed, just a level above.
  
*AKG 550*
 I don't have them at the moment, but I've done a _*lot *_of listening of them with the T1.  My daily work workhorse.  The impression I had when listening to them on the Schiit stack was; wow, that's a lot clearer/cleaner.  Again, I assumed the tube was the culprit, but thinking back, the amplification very likely played an important role.  The bass was much less emphasized, better defined, the sound was definitely 'lighter', bit more effortless & just clearer/cleaner.
  
 So, yeah... IMHO, the Magni's amplification is better.  The difference is not huge.  Without quickly alternating, it would be hard to identify the differences, think I was mentioning that in this thread that I _thought _the Schiit did a better job driving them, so wasn't even entirely sure.   But when going back and forth, it's imho evident that the Magni is the better amp.  Logical given the price, (paid 120$ on massdrop for T1 vs 198$ for the modi+magni), but I was kinda expecting them to sound pretty much the same, given that transistor amps shouldn't sound very different from one another, but...  Sigh...  There's a difference.
  
 Would it be worth 100$ for T1 owners to get a Magni?  Tough question...  Would I get one if I just had a T1?  Honestly, not sure...  Some had suggested to spend more than 100$ and get something better than the Magni, I think I'd agree with that.  It's definitely not a huge difference, and maybe spending 200$ on an amp would give you a greater improvement.  If a 200$ amp improved over the Magni like the Magni improved over the T1, that would definitely be worth 200$, and be a_ serious _upgrade.  Do you get that though for 200$?  I don't know...!  
  
 Still, only got 100$, is the Magni sound improvement worth 100$?  Well 100$ isn't a lot in the world of audio, and given the actual cost/improvement vs cables & other much less obvious 'upgrades', probably yes.  It's a real, audible, significant upgrade.  I wouldn't lose sleep about using T1 amplification though!
  
 I'll try to compare the Schiit stack vs T1 and post my final impressions on Schiit stack vs T1.    Hmm.. And maybe T1 vs modi should also be interesting. Could I go Modi line out -> Aune line in -> Aune line out -> Schiit Magni?  Hmm!  Think I'll try that.. (edit btw doesn't work, making comparison a big hassle...)
  
_Note: Knowing that level match is important, the volume was ear matched.  But to be sure the Magni didn't get a volume advantage, when it became clear that the Magni was getting the upper hand, I increased the volume of the T1 so that it was clearly louder than the Magni, and going back and forth between amps, slightly reduced the T1's volume until its level was very slightly above the Magni..._


----------



## vurtomatic

Dusted off my T1 and back into it. So far I think my fave is a Rocket Logo 6H23N for electronic music. Just ordered a 6N23P-EV to try and another 6H23N for backup.
  
 How does everyone store/carry their tubes?? I have them in their individual cardboard boxes or rolled up in bubble wrap, and I realized I might've lost 2 tubes! Would be nice to have something that can hold all of them.
  
 It looks like there is a MK3, a T1 SE.
  
 Has anyone heard it and can make a comparison?


----------



## Salvatore

vurtomatic said:


> How does everyone store/carry their tubes?? I have them in their individual cardboard boxes or rolled up in bubble wrap, and I realized I might've lost 2 tubes! Would be nice to have something that can hold all of them.


 
  
 I use cigar box. Looks and smells nice (even though I'm not a smoker). You can check some photos from here: http://www.head-fi.org/g/a/759638/headphones-tubes/


----------



## SirBashALot

salvatore said:


> I use cigar box. Looks and smells nice (even though I'm not a smoker). You can check some photos from here: http://www.head-fi.org/g/a/759638/headphones-tubes/


 
 A wooden box is a very classy choice Salvatore  I am considering getting something similar myself. I plan to hit some local thrift stores for a cheap and awesome find


----------



## vurtomatic

salvatore said:


> I use cigar box. Looks and smells nice (even though I'm not a smoker). You can check some photos from here: http://www.head-fi.org/g/a/759638/headphones-tubes/


 
 Very classy!
  
 You got me googling around for cigar boxes and cigar travel cases, which led me to Pelican cases that some people use for cigars!


----------



## wendyKL

Hi everyone, I'm new to the T1 party, how does it perform with IEMs?


----------



## SpiderNhan

wendyKL said:


> Hi everyone, I'm new to the T1 party, how does it perform with IEMs?


The T1 has a relatively high output impedance of 10 ohms and therefore does not make an ideal pairing with IEMs, especially multi-balanced armature set ups. I don't use my T1's amp but instead run it through the line out into an Objective 2 amp which has a <1 ohm output impedance.


----------



## haroex1

I have been owning the T1 for a few years now along with a Schitt Lyr 2 with Gold Lion tubes and stock tubes used with a Dragonfly DAC and some people are going to probably call me crazy due to the price differences but the Aune T1 sound better to me using my HD600's and my Mr Speakers Alpha Dogs. I am going to use the T1's dac with the Lyr 2 to see if the Dragonfly is the cause or not. My Aplha Dogs sound so much more clearer and open with the Aune T1. I put them up against each other every so often just to see if my opinion has changed and I did that again last night and the Aune T1 won out again. Anyone else has the same gear and experienced the same thing? I have Gold Lion Tubes in both amps. The 2 in the Lyr 2 are even a matched pair.


----------



## penmarker

haroex1 said:


> I have been owning the T1 for a few years now along with a Schitt Lyr 2 with Gold Lion tubes and stock tubes used with a Dragonfly DAC and some people are going to probably call me crazy due to the price differences but the Aune T1 sound better to me using my HD600's and my Mr Speakers Alpha Dogs. I am going to use the T1's dac with the Lyr 2 to see if the Dragonfly is the cause or not. My Aplha Dogs sound so much more clearer and open with the Aune T1. I put them up against each other every so often just to see if my opinion has changed and I did that again last night and the Aune T1 won out again. Anyone else has the same gear and experienced the same thing? I have Gold Lion Tubes in both amps. The 2 in the Lyr 2 are even a matched pair.


What about Aune T1 out to the Schitt Lyr 2? That probably would sound good.


----------



## haroex1 (May 2, 2017)

penmarker said:


> What about Aune T1 out to the Schitt Lyr 2? That probably would sound good.


I am gonna try that but if I want to do a separate DAC with the Lyr2 that is not small in size like the Dragonfly, I may just as well get the Bifrost to match the Lyr2. I really like how the Aune is an all in one unit. I will try it out just so I can tell you the difference. I am also worried about spending that much money on the Bifrost which will make the combo around $1,000.00 spend while I paid $under $200.00 for the Aune T1. I do not think it will sound 4 times better than the Aune. LOL


----------



## haroex1

Alright, I tried the Aune as a DAC paired with my Lyr 2 with the Gold Lion Tubes and the with the LYST tubes which made it a complete solid state amp. I rather it with the Gold lion tubes instead of the LYST tubes so that is what I will use to compare. The Lyst tubes made it a little harsh in the top end with the Mad Dogs. I find the Aune plays better with the Lyr2 than the Dragonfly does. The Aune T1 sounds more open and has more detail on the top end than the dragonfly does. The Aune has less power compared to the Lyr2 of course and you do notice that when used with the Alpha Dogs. The bass is tighter, the mids are more forward, and the treble is a little smoother but with less detail with the Lyr2. The sound-stage is more open with the Aune and the mids are a little more laid back which is probably why I perceive that the Aune has a little more detail at the top end. This set up is on my end table next to my sofa so space is limited. Being that space is limited for me, the sound is nice enough with the Aune T1 through its own amp as to where i cant justify the extra space needed to be used by the Lyr2.The only way I would bring the Lyr2 in there to use permanently is if I ever purchased the Bifrost DAC to stack with it. The reason I never purchased it yet is because of the price and also the release of the Schiit Jotunheim and the Aune S6 which appears to be DAC/AMP combos and it would save space. Can the Bifrost be that much better than the DAC's in those 2 units? Also the price of the Bifrost vs those 2 DAC/AMPS put them at almost the same price range. So, the Aune T1 is a very competent DAC/AMP above its price point for sure in my opinion. Only crazy people like us on Head-Fi would seek something more. LOL


----------



## penmarker

People keep buying and buying higher end equipments and some start to develop sensitivity towards small changes. What we consider as marginal to them might be night and day differences. Some has favorite tracks that they love but wouldn't sound how they want them to, for instance maybe a spanish guitar is recessed, the bass doesn't have the same vibration like so and so, or the vocals are too up front, so they search for things/equipment to correct those very small details. However, while they may be looking at their equipment as race horses or performance cars where shaving every millisecond off the lap is important, I just look at mine like a fine automobile to stroll around comfortably.

The JPS Labs Abyss and Beyerdynamic DT150 headphones are ugly as sin, but they sell like hot cakes because of their performance.


----------



## fishda30

Any difference with the se t1? Was thinking of pairing this with a dt880


----------



## kupo43

Just recently bought the MK2 and I'm enjoying it immensely! I'm currently rocking a Genalex Gold Lion that the previous owner burned in quite nicely for about 150~ hours.The more I started researching tube rolling though, I decided I needed to get my hands on an Amperex 7308 and test it out. I bought one (white ink) through Upscale Audio. I'll give some impressions when I burn it in and give it a fair shake.

For those that have used both, do you think I will hear a substantial difference between the two? Thanks!


----------



## SirBashALot

kupo43 said:


> For those that have used both, do you think I will hear a substantial difference between the two? Thanks!



I have not tried the Genalex Gold Lion but the 7308 white labels was one of the most impressive first listens out of the many tubes I've tested. You will thoroughly enjoy it.


----------



## kupo43

SirBashALot said:


> I have not tried the Genalex Gold Lion but the 7308 white labels was one of the most impressive first listens out of the many tubes I've tested. You will thoroughly enjoy it.



Thanks for the feedback. I know I'm late to the party for this amp, but it's my first adventure into HiFi and it sounds great with my MSR7's. Definitely looking forward to the 7308.


----------



## kupo43

So got the 7308 (white, PQ shield) last night and I've spent about four hours with it total. At first it didn't seem like anything different than the Genalex, but after a while, I really could start to tell the difference. The big difference is that it has taken the edge off of my highs (MSR7's) but retained all of the detail. I really don't understand how it does that but, needless to say, its amazing. Mid's are still full and my bass is still tight and defined. I can't wait to get some more hours burned into it!

Overall, I think that the Genalex is a great value and depending on your cans, it might be all you ever need. But at some point, I think that everyone deserves to give this tube a listen. I can't speak to the other versions of the 7308, but Upscale Audio swears they are all the same tube. The tube community seems to disagree though so take that with a grain of salt.


----------



## SirBashALot

Kupo43, welcome to the world of NOS tubes haha.
I'm glad you are really enjoying it so far. It should improve with time as it burns in  Also, as you listen to more content you will appreciate it more.

Do you plan on trying out any other tubes?


----------



## kupo43 (May 23, 2017)

SirBashALot said:


> Kupo43, welcome to the world of NOS tubes haha.
> I'm glad you are really enjoying it so far. It should improve with time as it burns in  Also, as you listen to more content you will appreciate it more.
> 
> Do you plan on trying out any other tubes?



For sure. I really want to try an Amperex 6DJ8 Orange Globe and a couple of the Mullards. I'm hoping everything now will be relatively affordable. I've spent all day with the 7308 and it's really starting to come into its own as I'm adjusting to it.

Do you have any recommendations?


----------



## SirBashALot

kupo43 said:


> Do you have any recommendations?



I haven't extensively listened to all my tubes yet. However, I would definitely recommend getting tubes from different factories. The 7308 you have I presume is American made. Give a Herleen factory tube, ie Dutch made, preferably from early 60s, as those sound the best apparently. I've acquired nothing but pre-1970s tubes for that reason. Other famous factories are the British Mitcham and Blackburn Mullard factories, Munich Siemens, Hamburg Valvo, and a few others. I am not saying each tube from each factory sounds the same. However, I have noticed bigger differences between the better tubes(6922 pq/e188cc) from different factories than the better tubes vs the lower tier ones(6922/e88cc). Might just be me though 

There are many reviews to read out there and your tastes might be different than mine. Also depends on your setup. Maybe you want a bigger sound stage more so than taming the highs on say Beyer cans. I suggest you enjoy some music on the 7308 while you read up on the tonnes of tube reviews out there xD It is part of the fun to learn about the history too. I suggest you read here: http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm

What got me buying lots of tubes is being fascinated in them and their history. Recently acquired some in original boxes and that adds to the enjoyment a ill haha. Once you have a couple in mind, lemme know, wouldnt mind letting couple go.


----------



## kupo43

SirBashALot said:


> I haven't extensively listened to all my tubes yet. However, I would definitely recommend getting tubes from different factories. The 7308 you have I presume is American made. Give a Herleen factory tube, ie Dutch made, preferably from early 60s, as those sound the best apparently. I've acquired nothing but pre-1970s tubes for that reason. Other famous factories are the British Mitcham and Blackburn Mullard factories, Munich Siemens, Hamburg Valvo, and a few others. I am not saying each tube from each factory sounds the same. However, I have noticed bigger differences between the better tubes(6922 pq/e188cc) from different factories than the better tubes vs the lower tier ones(6922/e88cc). Might just be me though
> 
> There are many reviews to read out there and your tastes might be different than mine. Also depends on your setup. Maybe you want a bigger sound stage more so than taming the highs on say Beyer cans. I suggest you enjoy some music on the 7308 while you read up on the tonnes of tube reviews out there xD It is part of the fun to learn about the history too. I suggest you read here: http://www.audiotubes.com/6dj8.htm
> 
> What got me buying lots of tubes is being fascinated in them and their history. Recently acquired some in original boxes and that adds to the enjoyment a ill haha. Once you have a couple in mind, lemme know, wouldnt mind letting couple go.



Sounds good. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Filewalker

Just for the files: I recently bought an Aune T1 Mk3 and send it back after just a few days. It worked fine and was able to supply my Fostex T50RP at a great volume, but it got too hot. After about 30 Minutes the surface temperature was 47C (117F); thats more than I can accept. Especially when considering, that the inside temperature will be much higher. 

I tried it a few times and it even got hot without any headphone connected, without the USB cable connected and with gain set to the lowest value.

Grüsse,
Torsten


----------



## teb1013

Filewalker said:


> Just for the files: I recently bought an Aune T1 Mk3 and send it back after just a few days. It worked fine and was able to supply my Fostex T50RP at a great volume, but it got too hot. After about 30 Minutes the surface temperature was 47C (117F); thats more than I can accept. Especially when considering, that the inside temperature will be much higher.
> 
> I tried it a few times and it even got hot without any headphone connected, without the USB cable connected and with gain set to the lowest value.
> 
> ...



Shocking! My Mk1 produces very little heat and even after functioning for hours, the tube is just what you'd expect of a tube. Yours must be defective.


----------



## SirBashALot

Filewalker said:


> Just for the files: I recently bought an Aune T1 Mk3 and send it back after just a few days. It worked fine and was able to supply my Fostex T50RP at a great volume, but it got too hot. After about 30 Minutes the surface temperature was 47C (117F); thats more than I can accept. Especially when considering, that the inside temperature will be much higher.
> 
> I tried it a few times and it even got hot without any headphone connected, without the USB cable connected and with gain set to the lowest value.
> 
> ...



As the poster before me said, I would say your unit was not functioning properly. Aune T1 does get hot but not that much.


----------



## wgkwgk

kupo43 said:


> Sounds good. Thanks for the info.



Hey, I had a T1 and loved it.  Why?  It introduced me (inexpensively) to headphone amps and, most importantly, the fun/learning in tube rolling.  I learned tons through rolling. T1 is an excellent "end game" piece of equipment.  My purchase of the T1 and associated tubes came after many late evenings reading head-fi tubes reviews, then trying some as I learned more.  My learnings resulted in 4 tubes that represent different characteristics.  I spent 6 months bouncing among them.

So, I have those four tubes I selected and used with the T1.  They are for sale--cheaply I might add.  PM me if interested.

Best


----------



## VincentMayer

So im at work as one usually is and notice a very old and beat up oscilloscope come in ( recycling/donation center that also refurbishes and sell computers ) and noticed some tubes in it. so i grab it and go back to my desk in the tech department and start poking through it. Lots of RCA tubes, a GE, and a tung-sol so far none that are types i use in my T1. But i did find 2 gems in the belly of the old beast, a pair of 6DJ8 Amperex Bugle Boys. I would be very grateful if anyone could help me decipher the tube codes.





the most i can make out is
Left = GA2
_Δ8H

Right = Δ1A2_


----------



## SirBashALot

VincentMayer said:


> So im at work as one usually is and notice a very old and beat up oscilloscope come in ( recycling/donation center that also refurbishes and sell computers ) and noticed some tubes in it. so i grab it and go back to my desk in the tech department and start poking through it. Lots of RCA tubes, a GE, and a tung-sol so far none that are types i use in my T1. But i did find 2 gems in the belly of the old beast, a pair of 6DJ8 Amperex Bugle Boys. I would be very grateful if anyone could help me decipher the tube codes.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nice find! 
The triangle symbol means it's from the herleen factory in the Netherlands.
If the getter is a large O then they are from the sixties, the number after the symbol is the year.


----------



## VincentMayer (Sep 9, 2017)

SirBashALot said:


> Nice find!
> The triangle symbol means it's from the herleen factory in the Netherlands.
> If the getter is a large O then they are from the sixties, the number after the symbol is the year.


yea. the triangle is the only thing i know on these. herleen. the one with _Δ1A2 has an O getter. But the one with GA2 / Δ8H has a horseshoe shape with a straight bar connecting the two ends for a getter.





derp, 2 seconds of googling. D getter.

--further edit and 2 more seconds of googling
Amperex BB Tiny Man with D Getter 1958_


----------



## SirBashALot

D Getters are the rarest and apparently sound the best. That's a great find.


----------



## VincentMayer

SirBashALot said:


> D Getters are the rarest and apparently sound the best. That's a great find.


Yea, finding these made my Friday.
Thanks for the help and pointing me in the right direction, i always forget about looking at the getters. Will be testing these in the T1 later for sure.


----------



## SirBashALot

VincentMayer said:


> Yea, finding these made my Friday.
> Thanks for the help and pointing me in the right direction, i always forget about looking at the getters. Will be testing these in the T1 later for sure.



No problem my pleasure. Might as well use my many hours of research for something haha. 
What tubes have you previously tried?


----------



## VincentMayer

SirBashALot said:


> No problem my pleasure. Might as well use my many hours of research for something haha.
> What tubes have you previously tried?


Sovtek, Gold Lion, Amperex OG "74. And about 2 years ago I also found at work a 1965 Bugle Boy and have been using that as my main tube since I found it.

Started using the "58 tiny man last night, and it was sounding pretty good but not much different than the "65. But then Piano Bar by Yoko Kanno & The Seatbelts started and suddenly I noticed how much different it sounded from usual. Had to go back to try out the "65 just to make sure I wasnt losing my mind. Even pulled out the gold lion to do some listening. Must have listened to Piano Bar about 30 times last night on different tubes. This "58 tiny man is amazing. It makes all the other tubes I have sound flat and soulless, so much detail, warmth and range. Its like I have my own private venue and I'm standing right next to the piano.

I never got into tube rolling much because all the tubes I tried sounded pretty similar. Its why I just stuck the "65 bugle boy in and left it for the last 2 years, the gold lion sounded the same to me. But this tiny man will have to be pried from my cold dead hands, its a delema now, I want to use it, but I dont want to use its life up and I have no idea how much it had been used in that oscilloscope. I'm gonna have to try and find more of these so I have some spares and compare them.


----------



## penmarker

I wonder how will they sound if you didn't find out that they are the rarest and apparently sound the best


----------



## VincentMayer

penmarker said:


> I wonder how will they sound if you didn't find out that they are the rarest and apparently sound the best


Isn't that kinda what most tube purchases are based on, someone says a tube is amazing you gotta try it, I know that's why I got the gold lion. But that is a fair point, and that's why I went back to the old tube box and pulled others out to listen to. It may just fit the piano really well. Sound is also very subjective, and so are tubes. At the end of the day, if I like it and it gets me excited about tubes again isn't that all that really matters.


----------



## audioisemotion

Hi all
still lovin the aune t1 mk1.
As mentioned previously I modded the caps and output to a separate headphone class A headphone amp.
Done the tube rolling thing and got everything to a very satisfying place.

I was bidding on a few old valve/tube headphone amps and they went to high for my blood.

So getting to the point, I bought the aune external power supply for the aune amps and I don't think there has been a review yet.

So here goes.
Separation :- it's easier to follow individual parts within the whole.
Bass: slightly more controlled but not much better.
Mids : more real.
Treble: high frequencies are where there seems to more control which. 
Micro dynamics is much improved which is what seems to increase the realism.
Best part is the scale of the music. I can turn it up just a little higher and still be comfortable and this adds a large amount of scale to the music.
Sound stage is different, slightly wider and more out of the head, darker and with a more stable image.
Not a  night and day difference but it is an improvement.
Would I recommend the spend, well with my modified aune a definite yes however I can't test a std aune T1.

There are other power supplies which might be even better however they don't come with the aune t1 din power connector so I went for the aune one. Simple plugin job.
Bonus is you can switch off the power supply which is safer when your not there.

So another upgrade and the aune t1 stays for a while longer.

Hmm the headphone amp has two power bricks at 18v AC. What would it sound like with two large external filtered ones?

Why move to a new house when you can improve the one you have?

Note: I have had the power supply about two weeks and the sound is getting better with time.


----------



## hikaru12

Just got mine the other day and have been listening to it as a portable setup and the stock Electro Harmonix tube definetly takes out the sharp treble highs that were existing in my 400is. I'll have to poke through this thread to find some punchy tubes to bring back some of the aggressiveness I lost but I really am liking the smoothness to this. Getting some Gold Lions to go with this soon. 

Since it uses USB 1.1 it actually works well with a mobile setup, I'm using an OTG cable connected to my phone with it to great effect.


----------



## yangian

Does aune T1se need a linear power supply to improve it's sound quality? Thanks


----------



## penmarker

The T1 already is using a linear PSU. The power brick houses a transformer.


----------



## yangian

penmarker said:


> The T1 already is using a linear PSU. The power brick houses a transformer.



Thank you!


----------



## exSpire

Hello everyone,
I've been using the Aune T1 for a few years now and I've been getting some weird sounds since yesterday. It's connected to my PC so at first I thought it could be software related, but after switching to the onboard sound card, the weird noise is gone.
It's very hard to describe this noise but its only coming out of the right channel, its very short and sounds like a mechanical beep. I couldn't find a pattern, it seems quite random to me: I wouldn't hear it for quite a while but then it would "beep" like five times in five seconds, althought usually its 1-2 beeps once a while. Not sure about this part but it seems to occur only when there's no other sound playing, I have yet to hear this noise while there's anything playing.
Could it be that I need to replace my tube or something? (It's the MK2 version with the default tube that came with it)

Thanks in advance,
Daniel.


----------



## penmarker

No, tubes won't do that. If your tube is going out it will distort sort of like a static sound.
It could be something like your drivers?


----------



## exSpire

penmarker said:


> No, tubes won't do that. If your tube is going out it will distort sort of like a static sound.
> It could be something like your drivers?



Software drivers? I didn't know the Aune T1 had any, also just tried to find some but couldn't.


----------



## penmarker

exSpire said:


> Software drivers? I didn't know the Aune T1 had any, also just tried to find some but couldn't.


For me I use Wasapi plugin.


----------



## Nachmanowicz

hi. I live in brazil and I own a Aune t1 mk1. My tube has gone bad. =( So I'm looking for another one, willing to pay around 20-50 dollars for it. But I've no idea which.
My father is in the US up until Christmas. I saw these on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genalex-Go...247445?hash=item212667a515:g:AVUAAOxyhodRrORb
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1x-Gen...189303?hash=item21114d2577:g:uNcAAOSw5VFWGxaT
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENALEX-Ne...864127?hash=item25ccdd96ff:g:WaAAAOSwImRYcmy5
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genalex-Te...792421&hash=item25d83c7709:g:PdUAAOSwYvFZNGPM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electro-Ha...756523&hash=item25dc2d5bbe:g:LbwAAOSw3EhZeozu
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electro-Ha...910096?hash=item25dafe9fd0:g:ur8AAOSwu59ZZYVg

I've no idea which one to buy, if these are even decent grabs. So if you guys just link one to me I'll just buy it, no questions asked. lol
I just want my Aune T1 back and running quick! I miss it so bad! haahaha

thanks!


----------



## rwpritchett

Nachmanowicz said:


> hi. I live in brazil and I own a Aune t1 mk1. My tube has gone bad. =( So I'm looking for another one, willing to pay around 20-50 dollars for it. But I've no idea which.
> My father is in the US up until Christmas. I saw these on ebay:
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genalex-Gold-Lion-ECC88-6922-tubes-Brand-New-Balanced-Triodes/142378247445?hash=item212667a515:g:AVUAAOxyhodRrORb YES
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1x-Genalex-Gold-Lion-12AX7-ECC83-One-Single-Tube/142024189303?hash=item21114d2577:g:uNcAAOSw5VFWGxaT *NO*
> ...



I've added YES/NO T1 compatibility to your links above. Tubes that start with "12" will not work.


----------



## Nachmanowicz

God bless your heart.


----------



## Strat-Mangler (Jan 11, 2018)

Nevermind.


----------



## Goophoba

This thread is still going?!


----------



## Roelio (Jan 23, 2018)

Guys I'm using a Ultrasone 900 with the stock tube for years now.... I'm looking to upgrade my tube but can't make up my mind...

What do you think? I like clear, detailed sound and love a somewhat good sound stage. Don't need more base or high's over the stock tube because the Ultrasone is already a bit U curved.

Gold Lion Genalex E88CC/6922
Tungsram PCC189 (1980)
Brimar Blackburn PCC189 A-Frame Philips
Philips PCC189 Holland Heerlen
Tungsram PCC88

ps. Mostly listen to pop/rock and all kinds of minimal techno (electronic music)

I'm lost...
.


----------



## wgkwgk

Roelio said:


> Guys I'm using a Ultrasone 900 with the stock tube for years now.... I'm looking to upgrade my tube but can't make up my mind...
> 
> What do you think? I like clear, detailed sound and love a somewhat good sound stage. Don't need more base or high's over the stock tube because the Ultrasone is already a bit U curved.
> 
> ...


Hi,

I used to have a T1 and loved tube rolling.  I spent tons of time researching the various tubes, some of the history, of course sound quality.  I do still have my "Grail" tube collection:
Mullard  CV2492
Siemens Cca
Amperex ECC88
Telefunken E88CC

Each of these are in the top of their class and each have unique sound characteristics.  (Note: I worked only with NOS tubes--supposedly better than later vintages.)

To go to your need for sound stage, I'd look towards German NOS: Telefunken, Siemens, Valvo, Lorenz. 

If you want to benefit from a zillion hours of tube research/rolling that resulted in a great tube in each of the major sound categories, I would sell you my four and you'd have everything covered.

Regards,


----------



## wgkwgk

Hi,

I used to have a T1 and loved tube rolling. I spent tons of time researching the various tubes, some of the history, of course sound quality. I do still have my "Grail" tube collection:
Mullard CV2492
Siemens Cca
Amperex ECC88
Telefunken E88CC

Each of these are in the top of their class and each have unique sound characteristics. (Note: I worked only with NOS tubes--supposedly better than later vintages.)

To go to your need for sound stage, I'd look towards German NOS: Telefunken, Siemens, Valvo, Lorenz. 

If you want to benefit from a zillion hours of tube research/rolling that resulted in a great tube in each of the major sound categories, I would sell you my four and you'd have everything covered.

Regards,


----------



## Roelio

Thanks for your feedback and I would love to buy those but don't have enough money for that for sure. Also shipping to The Netherlands is gonna be expensive as hell. 

I have my eyes on a Siemens E88cc/6922 a6 Bundeswehr for 55 euro. Or maybe a cheaper Gold Lion Genalex.... 

The Ultrasone 900 pro already have a lot of bass and highs so I think it would be good to look for something that brings the mids a bit up and the sound stage.


----------



## Etherate

Does anyone leave their Aune T1 on 24/7? 

do yall think it is ok to do so?


----------



## SirBashALot

Etherate said:


> Does anyone leave their Aune T1 on 24/7?
> 
> do yall think it is ok to do so?



From what I know running tubes for too long can sometimes affect sound quality. I would suggest you give it a rest each night but you can run it all day no problems I'd imagine.


----------



## penmarker

Tubes has different lifespans, some are 10k hours some are 50k hours etc. Let it run, there shouldn't be any problems but it shortens the lifespan.

Remember back in the days military and telecommunications used tubes and they had to run 24/7 so the tubes are built well.


----------



## chrisssj2

Hi guys, id like to known some recommendations on the following uses with the T1 MK 3 tube dac.
Looking for a possible upgrade for the free tube that comes with it.

Purpose: Game, Movie, Classical music(low on vocals ussually)  and Movie Soundtracks (instrumental) like hans zimmer and so on. ( dont rly listen to "normal music")
Each category can have a different tube recommendation if you have one that is...


----------



## HeavenNotes

You will be in love with GE 6GM8 ECC86.  It is an immersion music experience.


----------



## SirBashALot

I'd recommend a 7308 Amperex


----------



## exSpire

Hi everyone
From what I've read  the "Amperex OG 6DJ8" is a good all around replacement for the original tube of my Aune T1. I'm finding too many results in eBay and having a hard time filtering through them. Is this one correct?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Matched-Pa...s-From-USSR-/372103421671?hash=item56a3179ee7
It's just the cheapest one I saw with the Orange Globe. Not sure what else to look for.

Thanks!


----------



## Mal Waldron

Hi all!

I just ordered a T1SE MK3 and, as an absolute noob, I ask you to provide me some manual to configure it Foobar on W10 correctly. Thank you in advance, this is my first dedicated source and I'm somewhat overwhelmed


----------



## exhale (Apr 17, 2018)

Hello everyone,
I know i'm late to the party but today is the day my T1se Mk3 arrived and i might as well admit, today is the day i realized i was living in a lie. I have a pair of DT880's, 600 variant, around for close to 2 years now and i've never had the time to look for a proper DAC/amplifier for it. When i re-built my desktop computer, i ordered a MB which SUPPOSEDLY had the ability to drive phones up to 600 ohms. In the short time i had at my disposal, i noticed that while it did give a boost to volume, the sound was, well...dead . No low,mid or high presence at all. I tinkered with the EQ a bit and managed to bring it to a decent level but still, it was miles ahead of what i KNEW these phones can.
Enter T1se (stock tube). I feel reborn, i swear. The soundstage it brought, the tempering in the highs and the presence on the lows is...damn, breathtaking. It's my first true endeavor in the audiophile universe but holy God it feels good. I have a lot of FLACs on my disks and dvds and for the first time in my life, i could feel a difference between a 320kbps MP3 and a FLAC. I feel so sad for the Beyers...

To add something useful to the thread, i noticed that this combo (On-Board audio source of the z270x Gaming 7+DT880+T1se) really shines when listening to orchestral music. I'm not keen on classical music (Mozart, Beethoven, etc) but i do listen a lot to Two Steps from Hell/Thomas Bergersen, Enigma, A.R.Rahman, Shanti's Buddha Bar/Tai-Chi volumes and that's where i felt the biggest difference yet. I'm listening on repeat to Rahman's Mumbai Theme Song and it's making my heart skip beats. It starts with a centered flute and a cymbal - all in the center of the soundstage. Mid-song it switches to some pads which are as stereo as they come, with height perception (which i never had before); shortly after, a strong bassline comes in (it might be just a low pad) which fills the entire audio spectrum. After taking a small "break", where the cymbal accompanies some strings/pads, it goes off again. What i can tell you is that the sounds are never in one place. I paid ~300 euros for this small monster (I know, it's expensive but that's what you get when you have only one authorized reseller in your whole country) and i don't regret it one nanosecond. I would of paid, now, that i know what it feels like, 500 euros for it. It seems that my onboard audio has enough power to act as an AMP (up to a certain level, after which it plateaus) while the T1se does it's job as a DAC wonderfully.

I've read a lot before buying and i noticed many owners going the route of tube-rolling. Sadly, the only place where i can buy tubes (the same from where i bought the dac) doesn't have any decent (or affordable) ones. If, by any chance, anyone of you guys and girls, at some point, decide to sell either the Gold Lion E88CC or the Amperex 7308 Golden Pin, i'd like to try and buy one. So far, i'm more than thrilled with the SQ i'm provided and probably don't need another tube but i'm also aware that you can't realize what you're missing till you've had it.

Oh, and another thing...i had to amp the whole 16DB to properly drive the Beyers. I guess this means i'll have to look for a proper amp, sometime in the future. TIll then, i will recommend the T1se to everyone i know (and maybe convert a few) looking for a different audio experience.

A BIG thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread, it really made my decision that much easier. I would of never decided to pull the plug if it weren't for you. Thank you!


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

exSpire said:


> Hi everyone
> From what I've read  the "Amperex OG 6DJ8" is a good all around replacement for the original tube of my Aune T1. I'm finding too many results in eBay and having a hard time filtering through them. Is this one correct?
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Matched-Pa...s-From-USSR-/372103421671?hash=item56a3179ee7
> It's just the cheapest one I saw with the Orange Globe. Not sure what else to look for.
> ...


I’m not too sure if that’s the one people have recommended. One thing that is confusing about tubes is that even with the same brand, same code you could get a tube that sound noticeable worse than others. The year it’s made in, hell, even the factory (as somehow deduce-able from the box, perhaps) all play a factor. There’s nothing to do but ask and/or blind try. 
Regardless, I can’t help you in this specific instance but the key here is that you should search head-fi to find what traits will differ the “OG” ones from other Amperex 6dj8 - which might be plenty. Searching in the Schiit Vali or other amps that use the same tube types would help also.


----------



## WilliamLeonhart

Mal Waldron said:


> Hi all!
> 
> I just ordered a T1SE MK3 and, as an absolute noob, I ask you to provide me some manual to configure it Foobar on W10 correctly. Thank you in advance, this is my first dedicated source and I'm somewhat overwhelmed


I think Aune use Xmos drivers so first install the drivers that you can find. 
Next install the Asio component for foobar. You can google it and follow the steps (sorry I’m on a phone but I’m sure it’s not difficult). 
Press Ctrl P to open foobar preference. There’s a section called “output”. Just select asio: xmos something (which is your aune). Notice here it’s in exclusive mode so other applications won’t push sound through your Aune. 
Please try the steps and let me know if it succeeds.


----------



## Mal Waldron

WilliamLeonhart said:


> I think Aune use Xmos drivers so first install the drivers that you can find.
> Next install the Asio component for foobar. You can google it and follow the steps (sorry I’m on a phone but I’m sure it’s not difficult).
> Press Ctrl P to open foobar preference. There’s a section called “output”. Just select asio: xmos something (which is your aune). Notice here it’s in exclusive mode so other applications won’t push sound through your Aune.
> Please try the steps and let me know if it succeeds.



Thank you very much, WilliamLeonhart! I found a manual on a web with those steps and everything was installed satisfactorily.


----------



## exSpire (May 2, 2018)

Can someone recommend a decent Tube to replace the original that is dying (buzzing on right channel)? Also a link to it on Ebay would be nice since I have no clue about the small differences in appearance and don't want to buy something bad.

Will this do the job? https://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Matche...861460?hash=item3f700d5494:g:dpcAAOSwj85YOGq2

Thanks <3


----------



## wgkwgk

exSpire said:


> Can someone recommend a decent Tube to replace the original that is dying (buzzing on right channel)? Also a link to it on Ebay would be nice since I have no clue about the small differences in appearance and don't want to buy something bad.
> 
> Will this do the job? https://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Matche...861460?hash=item3f700d5494:g:dpcAAOSwj85YOGq2
> 
> Thanks <3


Hi exSpire,
I no longer have my T1 but I do have some tubes sitting around.  These are:

Mullard  CV2492 1970's
Siemens Cca 1968
Amperex ECC88 1970
Telefunken E88CC 19??

These are all NOS (New Old Stock) tubes.  I did a ton of rolling (including lots of research within head-fi) and came up with these four, as they each have a unique sound.  I've neglected to put them on eBay--they're just sitting in their boxes.  So, if you are interested in any of these just LMK and toss out a price.  Anything reasonable will be considered and probably accepted.  

Side comments:
1.  NOS tube are really hard to find.  I believe I caught the last of those available when I was rolling a few years ago. 
2.  Matched pairs are usually at a premium over 2 unmatched tubes.  You don't need a matched pair so, IMHO, don't pay the premium, just buy a single.

Please PM me if you're interested.

Best,

Bill


----------



## Double-A (Jun 12, 2018)

Hi all,

I did a quick search and saw a few posters in this thread claiming that the T1 has an output impedance rating of ~10 ohms. Does the se version have that same 10 ohm figure?


----------



## trellus

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/aune-t1-se-headphone-amp

Back up on Massdrop


----------



## HeavenNotes

trellus said:


> https://www.massdrop.com/buy/aune-t1-se-headphone-amp
> 
> Back up on Massdrop


  +1


----------



## Double-A (Jun 12, 2018)

*


----------



## Double-A

Quick question everybody,

Would some of the tube rolling threads for other amps be good resources to consult in combination with this thread to find a good replacement tube for the T1? Or will a specific tube that sounds good with one of those products not necessarily sound good with the T1 since it is a different product with different characteristics?

Thanks


----------



## wgkwgk

exSpire said:


> Hi everyone
> From what I've read  the "Amperex OG 6DJ8" is a good all around replacement for the original tube of my Aune T1. I'm finding too many results in eBay and having a hard time filtering through them. Is this one correct?
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Matched-Pa...s-From-USSR-/372103421671?hash=item56a3179ee7
> It's just the cheapest one I saw with the Orange Globe. Not sure what else to look for.
> ...


Hey,
First, I love(d) my T1--learned lots.  I did a bunch of rolling and it really comes down to value--sound for the $ spent.  The OG is really popular and it's in my collection as one of four I found to be the best for the T1.  ("I" being the operative word.)  I wound up with the Amperex ECC88, A-frame Orange Globe, Heerlen 1970.  (Phew!) 

The price differences you are seeing are likely due to type of frame, getter, pins, dimples, blah, blah, blah. So, you can put into it as much as you have/time/interest/$, or just go buy something and give it a whirl.  There are tons of resources within the forums addressing tubes.

My only real piece of advice is that the T1 doesn't need a pair of tubes, much leas a matched pair, so buy singles.

Bill


----------



## Double-A

I have a noob question. I'm pretty sure I already know the answer, but I just want to ask to make sure. The T1 only uses preamp tubes, right?


----------



## Double-A

My T1SE just arrived yesterday and I opened it up and started using it today. This is my first DAC/amp purchase, so forgive me for asking so many questions. 

My T1 is currently plugged into my MacBook Pro and feeding my 600 ohm DT 880s (I'm giving it time to burn in). It is playing my music without me having to download any drivers. However, is there any driver that I should still install? And should I adjust anything in my Audio MIDI settings? Also, should my gain be set to 16DB for my 880s? That is what the gain was set to when I pulled the unit out of the box. That is what I have left it at for right now.

One more question, what kind of USB port is the port on the back of the T1? I want to get the right kind of lightning to USB cable so that I can use the T1 with my iPhone and iPad.

Thank you,
Alec


----------



## penmarker

The USB behind the T1 is called a USB B, or more commonly known in computer stores as 'printer cable' because its the same connector used for printers. As for compatibility, some people has problems with connecting to portable devices as opposed to laptops/desktops. You might need a powered USB hub for it to work.

The gain is totally up to you. Some cans require high gains to allow volume knob somewhere in the middle for listening levels. Some people have high sensitivity cans so they use the lower gain setting. Use what you feel comfortable with.

Macs connect with them automatically, no drivers needed.


----------



## Double-A

Thank you, @penmarker


----------



## CoiL

Hey fellas! Long time no see! 

Has anyone done any additional mods to T1 besides capacitor overhaul along with some high-end tubes?
I mean, like OPAMP changing or something more?

I`m currently going to install and test Burson V5i dual opamps instead NE5532 headphone board opamp and OPA2134 DAC Opamp.

Will report back how it goes


----------



## GirgleMirt (Aug 18, 2018)

Has anyone ever gotten the Aune T1 to work with Ubuntu?  Plugged via USB, mine gets detected as a "Analog Outout / Digihug USB Audio" and I get no sound...  :\

[edit] ok I think my T1 is toast because from what I found;
_http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/thread/8297/aune-bit-valve-tube-dac?page=16_


> Btw, I was afraid that Aune T1 wont work so easily under Ubuntu 12.04 LTS [...] No need for drivers or some setup. Just choose DigiHug USB Audio Analog output from Ubuntu sound settings and good to go ;P


I don't understand why you'd choose audio analog when it's a DAC, but anyway...  Some seem to say that there's more steps to follow, but even with the steps, nope, still nothing; no sound...   BUT!  I just tried a modi, and it's obviously a DAC, so digital, but shows up "Analog Output / Digihug USB Modi device"!  So analog again, so for some reason it also says analog but it works fine... (I don't get it why analog and not digital...)


> Naaah, it seems that under Ubuntu it isnt so simple. Noticed, that output was set to analog and that seemed wierd. Also something had changed in sound (littlebit like mono). PulseAudio seems to cause problems. I`m using Clementine and its Gstreamer output setting must be set to ALSA. After that there should be DigiHub S/PDIF Digital out at sound settings - select it.
> 
> Terminal: alsamixer
> ALL other sound devices and their input/output values must be 0 (F6 selects device).
> ...



And yeah BTW I'm trying it on Linux because it stopped working one day with Windows 7.  It worked for years via USB & PC until one day it didn't.  No sound.  I just tried via cell -> line in, and it works.  So the amp section is fine. The 4 orange lights of the tube light up as usual, the top of the lamp is silvery, any idea on how to debug the DAC/tube?  It is detected via linux, but again, no sound in linux either...


----------



## Chs177

GirgleMirt said:


> Has anyone ever gotten the Aune T1 to work with Ubuntu?


I'm running Fedora and everything is ok.
So I think there are no any constraints to run it under Ubuntu.
You need to select DigiHug USB Spdiff out. DeadBeef is a good player to do so.


----------



## GirgleMirt (Aug 18, 2018)

Chs177 said:


> I'm running Fedora and everything is ok.
> So I think there are no any constraints to run it under Ubuntu.
> You need to select DigiHug USB Spdiff out. DeadBeef is a good player to do so.


Thanks!  Just installed, still no luck...  Which settings do you use?  I think I remember reading somewhere I should be using ALSA plugin, but when selected I have more than a dozen of possible DigiHub outputs, the closest seems to be: "DigiHub USB Audio, USB Audio, IEC958 (S/PDIF) Digital Audio Output)", but still I'm getting nothing...    Other such as direct sample mixing device, direct hardware device withotu any conversions, etc., all don't seem to work either...

Also yeah you were right, when the T1 is plugged, in the ubuntu sound settings I have the option of either analog or digital (S/PDIF), but neither work, no sound from Test Sound also.  Getting quite sure something is toast...


----------



## Chs177

GirgleMirt said:


> DigiHub USB Audio, USB Audio, IEC958 (S/PDIF) Digital Audio Output)


Yes, it is correct. I'm using ALSA plugin and IEC958 (S/PDIF) Digital Audio Output. 
Does the tube working correctly in the your Aune?


----------



## GirgleMirt

Chs177 said:


> Does the tube working correctly in the your Aune?


That's what I'd like to know!  _"I just tried via cell -> line in, and it works. So the amp section is fine. The 4 orange lights of the tube light up as usual, the top of the lamp is silvery, any idea on how to debug the DAC/tube?".  _I've also looked at the tube filaments the tube does not seem to have any visible damage (that I know how to check anyhow...), I also hear the click ~1m after turning the unit on, but the DAC section/tube seems broken...  It's the original Aune + original tube, 5 year old now, used at work so almost 8h a day every work day.  I did not really notice a degradation of sound from the tube, the Aune was just dead one morning.


----------



## CoiL (Aug 19, 2018)

First of all, just buy some cheap chinese or russian tube for replacement to be sure that it is not just faulty tube (You can`t tell faulty tube just by looking at it).
Secondly, open up Your Aune T1 and look for any visible damage to PCB components (capacitors firstly as they are rubbish on original T1 and after 5y no wonder if they gave up working).
Thirdly, look for any other "fried" signs on resistors, chips etc.
Also, not sure if T1 will let line-in sound pass through T1 when Aune wall-brick is dead... but check it anyway.


----------



## Chs177

GirgleMirt said:


> 5 year old now, used at work so almost 8h a day every work day


8(h)x5(days)x52(weeks per year)x5(years)=10400 hours. So I think your tube is dead.
Firstly just try to buy a replacement tube.


----------



## Hyp0xia (Aug 24, 2018)

Does anyone know if I have to worry about voltage if I purchase the Aune XP1 to complement the T1se? I'm in North America. The Aune Web store only seems to specify color.


----------



## Hyp0xia

Hyp0xia said:


> Does anyone know if I have to worry about voltage if I purchase the Aune XP1 to complement the T1se? I'm in North America. The Aune Web store only seems to specify color.



Nevermind. I contacted Aune and they told me they would ship a 110V version of the XP1 if I placed an order on their Web store. Just got the T1se, by the way, and I am really enjoying this product so far. I wish I had bought one much sooner.


----------



## GirgleMirt (Aug 26, 2018)

The Aune T1 power supply seemed pretty big, is there a big difference between it and the upgraded power supply?

Btw I'm going to check out the local stores for tubes, and maybe if there's nothing affordable just go for a cheap chinese tube.    Is there any specific recommendation?  I was looking at;

Special Beijing 6n11 tube, J class, 6922 ECC88, E88CC, 6DJ8, 6N11, electron tube for ~13.50$ shipped
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Spe...88CC-6DJ8-6N11-electron-tube/32810621389.html

which seems pretty much the cheapest compatible tube I could find, the brand is Beijing...  But besides the 5 positive reviews in the shop page, couldn't really find any info.  The same store has a russian tube for 20$, which might also be interesting, but not knowing if my T1 is dead, less of a waste if so...

Special ECC88: the Soviet Union 6H23n upgrade 6H23/6N11/E88CC/CCa/6DJ8 poison tube fever tube for ~20$ shipped
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Spe...-6DJ8-poison-tube-fever-tube/32808484130.html

I'm in Canada which makes it a bit more difficult; can't really purchase from US as just the shipping cost costs about the same as the tube, and even in Canada, which is ultra ridiculous, buying a 15$ tube from a store 200km away costs 15$, yet shipping from china (10000+km?) costs 2$...!


----------



## Hyp0xia

GirgleMirt said:


> The Aune T1 power supply seemed pretty big, is there a big difference between it and the upgraded power supply?



No idea, but I really hate power bricks. I would much prefer something that can sit on my desk.


----------



## penmarker

The product lineup might be end of life already so I doubt they'll come up with replacement/upgrade power bricks for the T1. They do sell replacement bricks for their other products and the connectors look the same - voltage might be a different thing altogether.

It would be nice if they got a desktop PSU for the T1 like the Fireflies tube PSU.


----------



## GirgleMirt (Oct 2, 2018)

CoiL said:


> First of all, just buy some cheap chinese or russian tube for replacement to be sure that it is not just faulty tube (You can`t tell faulty tube just by looking at it).
> Secondly, open up Your Aune T1 and look for any visible damage to PCB components (capacitors firstly as they are rubbish on original T1 and after 5y no wonder if they gave up working).
> Thirdly, look for any other "fried" signs on resistors, chips etc.
> Also, not sure if T1 will let line-in sound pass through T1 when Aune wall-brick is dead... but check it anyway.


Got the chinese tube, plugged in, same!  No sound...  Opened up the aune to see if there was any blown caps, at first glance everything looked fine, but there's a chip which has some strange residue looking thing on top. (labeled RL1)  Could this be it?  Damaged/burned/chip?  At first I just 



Wasn't really able to check the other side though, you're just supposed to pop the top with pressure from the bottom with a screwdrive?  Those aluminum tolerances seem pretty damn good and there's almost no give...


----------



## GirgleMirt (Oct 2, 2018)

Here's a better picture (click for larger)



looks like this is it:  https://www3.panasonic.biz/ac/e/search_num/index.jsp?c=detail&part_no=ATQ209
Product name TQ Relays
Details Single side stable type, Standard PC board terminal, 5V DC

Booo!  I just tried cleaning it up with some Q-Tip and lighter fluid and it cleaned up really well, so it doesn't appear to be the chip that leaked from the top (well bottom) as it cleaned up well...  (if it burned up the plastic under it would have been damaged but it was completely clear).   But yeah I guess I"ll try to take the top off maybe something leaked from the other side!

Ok managed to pop the top.  Everything looks fine, from the other side, there was just a sort of 'powder' residue thing; which would well have been just some dirt from the factor or whatever (very fine powder stuck on the board..)


----------



## CoiL

I`m actually surprised to see that Your T1 have Panasonic FC caps in it (seem to be from pics). That`s good.

But if new tube isn`t working too, then I don`t know whats wrong with Your unit by just looking @ pics. And as You say everything looks ok, then....

Let some professional electronic to check and search for fault.


----------



## GirgleMirt (Oct 3, 2018)

CoiL said:


> I`m actually surprised to see that Your T1 have Panasonic FC caps in it (seem to be from pics). That`s good.
> 
> But if new tube isn`t working too, then I don`t know whats wrong with Your unit by just looking @ pics. And as You say everything looks ok, then....
> 
> Let some professional electronic to check and search for fault.


I think it's more like RIP.  Around here it's 30$ just for an estimate, and you're likely looking 2-3x that amount for the fix and the part(s)...  And that is if they can fix it.  If not, you've just lost more $ for the estimate and more of your time ...

The amp part still works.  But compared to schiit magni & Topping A30, it seemed to be the worse amplification of the 3...  Guess if I'm bored one day I could try pull out the old multimeter and check the caps & resistors, but for the chips I think it's more complicated...  But I'm guessing that's a few hours of metering, looking online for info & then ordering/fixing... Might just be better too look for an upgrade.  It's a 5 year old $120 item after all, and in this throw away & ultra expensive repair age, just throwing things away is sadly the norm...  :\


----------



## CoiL

Yeah, it`s old... but... for its price range it has lot to offer and depending on upgrade parts (mainly tubes) can sound pretty high SQ level.
Mine is also old, but I would not trade it or sell it no matter what. It just sounds damn good with my gear. Amp part of it is weakest link (basically c-moy) but output power and sound quality (depending on caps used) can be very good.


----------



## HeavenNotes

CoiL said:


> Yeah, it`s old... but... for its price range it has lot to offer and depending on upgrade parts (mainly tubes) can sound pretty high SQ level.
> Mine is also old, but I would not trade it or sell it no matter what. It just sounds damn good with my gear. Amp part of it is weakest link (basically c-moy) but output power and sound quality (depending on caps used) can be very good.


  Agree 100%


----------



## exhale (Nov 1, 2018)

Hello again..

I finally got my hands on a Valvo E88CC tube. NOS. I think it's made somewhere in the early 60's but i'm not quite sure. Before it, all i had was the stock EH tube that the T1 comes with and a russian 6n23p which i got for cheap. The differences between these 2 are so few that you can't call one an upgrade over the other. Basically, both lack proper soundstage, imaging... heck, proper audio quality. After plugging in the Valvo...God damn it my mind was blown. The soundstage is huge, the overall sound is gentle, warm and no distortion (which i could hear in certain tracks, with the other 2). It's like i've changed my entire audio setup with just this one tube. I've had my doubts regarding its authenticity, since i'm not that knowledgeable when it comes to these but all my doubts and fears have been washed away. Regardless, when music came about, i knew i got the real deal. The person i bought it from was not looking to make a fortune and i got it at 45$ (which, according to some online stores and eBay, is a steal).

Either way, listening to music though a pair of Beyer Amirons and it definitely makes a huge (positive) difference. I've actually rediscovered my T1se thanks to this tube. I'm a believer in tube rolling now and i'd advice anyone who likes warm, spatial (close to pure 3D) sound with all the freqs properly balanced (who likes sibilance, resonance and muddy bass anyway?) to search for this tube. At least as far as the Amirons go, this is the real crap, right here.

Edit: Would any of you be interested in helping me identify the exact make/model/year of this tube? There are 2 markings on the lower end of the glass, in two rows... first row is "7LH(or K, can't perfectly tell)" and the second one starts with a symbol, like a reverse Delta, followed by a number, 983 or 883, again, hard to tell.


----------



## CoiL (Nov 1, 2018)

I don`t remember much about tube codes anymore but I do recall delta sign meaning it is Philips Holland Heerlen Factory made.
For further, You need to search google. Seems like a real deal by golden pins and large ring getter.

I have 5x Siemens E88CC (GØ 1≠ 6A / GØ 1≠ 5L / EØ 1≠ 6A, grey plates, o-ring getter, gold pins):




Should last for me lifetime... along with my other ~10 really great SQ tubes ;P

But another thing if You wish to get out max SQ from that tube and Aune T1 - replace capacitors with higher quality ones. For example power supply filtering caps Panasonic FR series and for other Panasonic FC - cheap upgrade but great result


----------



## exhale (Nov 2, 2018)

CoiL said:


> I don`t remember much about tube codes anymore but I do recall delta sign meaning it is Philips Holland Heerlen Factory made.
> For further, You need to search google. Seems like a real deal by golden pins and large ring getter.
> 
> I have 5x Siemens E88CC (GØ 1≠ 6A / GØ 1≠ 5L / EØ 1≠ 6A, grey plates, o-ring getter, gold pins):
> ...



Thank you for your help, kindly appreciate it.
In the meanwhile, i did some digging and as far as this tube goes, i *think* i may have gotten way luckier than i initially thought. Indeed, the delta sign is for Phillips Holland, Heerlen factory and i have found some pointers telling me that this might be one of those rare Cca. tubes. The general consensus *was* that the Cca. tubes were made by one manufacturer only, for the german post office but it later turned out that this wasn't quite true. As far as SQ and rarity goes, this seems to be one of the highest regarded tubes around. Considered extremely rare with an almost holographic soundstage. And i can attest to that! I was a semi-non-believer regarding tube rolling but this has made me rethink that. I might be wrong and i honestly don't care if i am. The SQ is more than enough, i don't need a good branding (of the tube) to enjoy it more.

Obviously, now i'm curious as to how other tubes sound. The person i bought this from lives in the same city as i do and he's been an audiophile for many years (his son plays guitar in a rock band) and he assured me that he *can* find other tubes, according to my needs. Fingers crossed


----------



## CoiL (Nov 2, 2018)

Can You maybe post more detailed pics of Your tube (inner build, top glass, bottom, getter leg etc.)?
Your are right about tube branding as I have some tubes from another family that sound very close to my E88CC`s but cost me very little (if I recall correctly, one was Pinnacle PCC85 or 88 which should be actually early japanese made). Luckily I got very lucky and was able to grab my 5xE88CC`s only for 32€ (which are real rarity and usually cost ~250$ per tube) 

But if You already have such great tube, I rather recommend (again) to upgrade Your T1 capacitors 
Much cheaper improvement over falling into tube-hoarding sickness!
I recommend You to get Amperex 6DJ8 orange label, and JAN Sylvania 6922 green label, which are littlebit different signature but also very good, and call it done.


----------



## exhale

CoiL said:


> Can You maybe post more detailed pics of Your tube (inner build, top glass, bottom, getter leg etc.)?
> Your are right about tube branding as I have some tubes from another family that sound very close to my E88CC`s but cost me very little (if I recall correctly, one was Pinnacle PCC85 or 88 which should be actually early japanese made). Luckily I got very lucky and was able to grab my 5xE88CC`s only for 32€ (which are real rarity and usually cost ~250$ per tube)
> 
> But if You already have such great tube, I rather recommend (again) to upgrade Your T1 capacitors



Here's hoping i won't forget about it when i get back home! Otherwise, i sure will! I'd lie if i didn't say i'm at least a bit curious about it. The thing about upgrading the capacitors (which i've also given thought) is that i lose the warranty. And it's a 2 year warranty. Would the improvement be *that* great as to be worth it?


----------



## CoiL

exhale said:


> Would the improvement be *that* great as to be worth it?


Well, that`s Your decision but improvement is definetly noticeable (depending which caps You actually have in Your unit as Aune T1 uses different ones over time and some can be good but some crap). If You wish to keep warranty, then don`t do it and just enjoy Your great tube.


----------



## CoiL (Nov 20, 2018)

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the-opamp-thread.432749/page-421#post-14608984

Opamp change into AD8599ARZ






Next probably going to try OPA1612AID & ADA4084-2ARZ.
Also, will try to change DAC differential opamp if I find proper candidate.


----------



## exSpire

Hey guys
I saw a lot of recommendations for the Amperex 6DJ8 OG
is this the one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Match-1-pa...h=item3ad9e7567e:g:LTQAAOSwmCVY-GJA:rk:1f:0

Or is this it?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6DJ8-ECC88...h=item5b4f9ad9c9:g:6d0AAOSw34Fbszvf:rk:4f:0

Also is it a fair purchase? I don't wanna pay much more than that, it would be my second tube after the original one that came with the Aune T1. From what I learned, this tube is a great all-arounder and should be great for me.

Also saw good things here about Siemens\Valvo EC88, Mullard ECC86 and a few others, but its hard to pinpoint the real vs fakes one out there.
I can buy from eBay \ Amazon or TubeDepot.. if it helps.

Would appreciate if someone could send me in the right direction. Thank you.


----------



## Cheesedoodle

I'm not an expert, but I do have a pair of orange globes. The second pair is orange globe, the first, I believe, is not. The price of the second is hard to comment on, because it is a "start bid" price, so no telling what the final sale price will be.

I paid about $65 for my pair, which seems like approximately the going rate. I bought mine on eBay and was fairly confident they weren't fakes because the seller had lots of positive reviews and was experienced selling tubes, and provided lots of information about the tubes, testing information, etc. Others on the list can probably do a better job telling you specifics about what to look for to determine a fake. The orange globes do indeed sound very good. I also have a pair of Amperex PQs that sound as good as the orange globes, but somewhat different.



exSpire said:


> Hey guys
> I saw a lot of recommendations for the Amperex 6DJ8 OG
> is this the one?
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Match-1-pa...h=item3ad9e7567e:g:LTQAAOSwmCVY-GJA:rk:1f:0
> ...


----------



## wgkwgk

I have this sitting around from my Aune days.  You can have it for a song.  I also have three others: all NOS.
Amperex ECC88 1970 A-frame, Orange Globe Heerlen, Holland


----------



## exSpire (Nov 25, 2018)

Sorry for link spamming, but could someone help me narrow it down?
Which one would be best? At least, I THINK, they're all Amperex 6DJ8, but one of them says PQ.. not sure which pair would be the best of this bunch. One of them is also a quad.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/matched-qu...=item5d83122b0d:g:IY0AAOSwTB5boikU:rk:15:pf:0  - Matched quad?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MATCH-PQ-V...h=item41d4ed2d1e:g:baQAAOSwT2daFsZe:rk:3:pf:0 - Matched Pair + PQ?


And then there's these which seem nearly the same and from the same seller:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...=item4b546c68ab:g:AIEAAOSwVBRb41mc:rk:10:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...=item33f87b3f8f:g:GfoAAOSw-FRb2gPf:rk:11:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...=item4b53c0c297:g:fPwAAOSwE8Vb2gGi:rk:17:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...=item33f5b3b444:g:zZgAAOSwiMRbJAsN:rk:16:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...=item4b53d8e95b:g:ubsAAOSw6BhajGap:rk:14:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...=item4b5470b35e:g:ubsAAOSw6BhajGap:rk:13:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-6D...=item4b553a9223:g:7WwAAOSw2GJbYdr5:rk:12:pf:0


----------



## CoiL (Nov 25, 2018)

exSpire said:


> Hey guys
> I saw a lot of recommendations for the Amperex 6DJ8 OG
> is this the one?
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Match-1-pa...h=item3ad9e7567e:g:LTQAAOSwmCVY-GJA:rk:1:pf:0
> ...


The second link is correct Amperex orange globe 6DJ8 with single leg dimpled getter. I have that one and it belongs to my best 10 tubes collection for Aune T1. It is sonically and SQ-wise a bit better than other OGs with A-frame getter.
I recommend to go with single leg dimpled getter OG and call it done. Very natural and organic sounding with medium "holographic" stage.

Another relatively cheap upgrade tube would be green label JAN Sylvania 6922. Very "energetic" sounding and good value for money: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=JAN+Sylvania+6922&_sacat=0

Next highly recommended upgrade is capacitors, which is cheap and A LOT cheaper than hunting for rare expensive tubes.
Also upgrading headphone amp board opamp for ~10€ will bring noticeable upgrade for relatively small money.


----------



## exSpire (Nov 25, 2018)

CoiL said:


> The second link is correct Amperex orange globe 6DJ8 with single leg dimpled getter. I have that one and it belongs to my best 10 tubes collection for Aune T1. It is sonically and SQ-wise a bit better than other OGs with A-frame getter.
> I recommend to go with single leg dimpled getter OG and call it done. Very natural and organic sounding with medium "holographic" stage.



Thanks for your reply!
Would you say its worth getting a matched pair for my first tube upgrade? Or keep it simple and go with a single? I don't expect to go tube rolling, I mostly just want a single tube that will be the best all-arounder (maybe similar to the original one, I don't know if the original one is considered natural). Although a pair seems nice so I don't need to buy another one when the first one dies on me.

If a pair is worth it, I linked to a few in the post above yours, could you point the better one? The last group of links is from the same seller and mostly look the same, but I don't know.

I would very much appreciate that and thank you again for your help! <3


As far as the other small upgrades you mentioned, I will definitely be looking into that later on, when I get a good tube that I'm happy with  ^_^


----------



## CoiL

Those links You gave seem to be already gone? At least my browser don`t open them anymore.
Anyway, I would go with single one and like I said, get single leg support dimpled getter OG... or... JAN Sylvania 6922 green label. I would rather take OG.



exSpire said:


> As far as the other *small upgrades* you mentioned, I will definitely be looking into that later on, when I get a good tube that I'm happy with  ^_^


Small in money but BIG in SQ improvement!


----------



## exSpire

CoiL said:


> Those links You gave seem to be already gone? At least my browser don`t open them anymore.
> Anyway, I would go with single one and like I said, get single leg support dimpled getter OG... or... JAN Sylvania 6922 green label. I would rather take OG.


Since I can't tell one from another and sorry to bother you again, could you pinpoint the best one here? (As far as the best quality \ condition)
These two say "PQ"
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6DJ8-ECC88...h=item5b4f9ad9c9:g:6d0AAOSw34Fbszvf:rk:4:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...h=item4b51178c6e:g:KIgAAOSw1ZBbtpzK:rk:1:pf:0
And these are all from the same seller, all I can tell is the year is different:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...h=item4b549a8d39:g:gUwAAOSwCQZZD-Ms:rk:9:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...h=item33f88f1165:g:rOkAAOSw~FJZKhwx:rk:8:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...h=item4b53c030ea:g:PxUAAOSwXYtY2zEq:rk:7:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...h=item4b5134c3b3:g:ZgIAAOSwFzZbuCg9:rk:6:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...h=item33f63dfa4a:g:ScoAAOSwPR9btYm7:rk:4:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...h=item33f63c7b5d:g:Xz8AAOSw-MRbtXEf:rk:3:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-OR...h=item33f87a8add:g:NHsAAOSwpw5bst2J:rk:2:pf:0

Thank you so very much btw <3
Been delaying this purchase for quite some time because of all the small differences and would be super sweet to be using the Aune T1 again


----------



## CoiL

The very first link one is best OG and should be authentic for sure.


----------



## exSpire

CoiL said:


> The very first link one is best OG and should be authentic for sure.



Thank you!! <3
Much appreciated!!


----------



## exSpire

CoiL said:


> The very first link one is best OG and should be authentic for sure.



Update: Received the Tube. Sadly the issue isn't the tube because I'm still getting this "buzz" sound out of the right channel.
Guess its something to do with the electronics of the Aune T1. =\


----------



## CoiL

exSpire said:


> Update: Received the Tube. Sadly the issue isn't the tube because I'm still getting this "buzz" sound out of the right channel.
> Guess its something to do with the electronics of the Aune T1. =\


Just in case... have You tried switching gain swithes (under T1 enclosure, red/white switches) back and forth?


----------



## exSpire (Dec 12, 2018)

CoiL said:


> Just in case... have You tried switching gain swithes (under T1 enclosure, red/white switches) back and forth?



Tried numerous combinations with the DIP switches, no luck 

Thanks


----------



## penmarker

I used to have an issue like this too, the culprit turns out the DAC board. Can you try wrapping the tube in thick cloth or tissue? Try and listen if the buzzing goes away with the tube heating up.


----------



## exSpire (Dec 13, 2018)

penmarker said:


> I used to have an issue like this too, the culprit turns out the DAC board. Can you try wrapping the tube in thick cloth or tissue? Try and listen if the buzzing goes away with the tube heating up.


That's actually exactly what happened when the issue started. I turn the DAC on each day and turn it off at night. So at first, I would only hear it for a few minutes. Later on it would take longer and longer.. That's originally why I suspected it was the tube, since it was Ok once the tube was warmed up. A few months later and it wouldn't go away anymore, the buzzing is there all the time.
So you're saying its the DAC board?

By the way, what about contacting the manufacturer.. I bet its out of warranty, but I've had some nice experiences with some big companies before. Although I got mine from Massdrop.


----------



## CoiL

exSpire said:


> That's actually exactly what happened when the issue started. I turn the DAC on each day and turn it off at night. So at first, I would only hear it for a few minutes. Later on it would take longer and longer.. That's originally why I suspected it was the tube, since it was Ok once the tube was warmed up. A few months later and it wouldn't go away anymore, the buzzing is there all the time.
> So you're saying its the DAC board?
> 
> By the way, what about contacting the manufacturer.. I bet its out of warranty, but I've had some nice experiences with some big companies before. Although I got mine from Massdrop.


Idk, if You have opportunity but try another power brick. Also, not always capacitors show external failing signs, thus I would try to change all capacitors to quality ones. My logic says that DAC chip or dac differential opamp failing is less likely.
Resistors failing? I doubt it. Warm up relay (don`t know exact component at T1)? probably could be.
I would take that unit for some professional electronic guy and let him find the fault.
My T1 is very old in terms of hi-fi but works like new. Has a lot of hours playtime.


----------



## exSpire

Yeah I think I'll do that.
But when I do, I might as well also pay him to upgrade some of the electronics like you suggested before.



CoiL said:


> Next highly recommended upgrade is capacitors, which is cheap and A LOT cheaper than hunting for rare expensive tubes.
> Also upgrading headphone amp board opamp for ~10€ will bring noticeable upgrade for relatively small money.



Would be best if I knew the exact parts that would be needed for this. <3


----------



## CoiL (Dec 13, 2018)

exSpire said:


> Yeah I think I'll do that.
> But when I do, I might as well also pay him to upgrade some of the electronics like you suggested before.
> Would be best if I knew the exact parts that would be needed for this. <3


Easier and least costly way?
Just replace stock capacitors (with exact same values ones) but quality ones:
Panasonic FR for primary power supply filtering, all others go for Panasonic FC.
You can take a look at my head-fi Aune T1 gallery and read descriptions of stock capacitors.
I used FR for primary PSU filtering and all others Elna SilmicII`s (which are lot more expensive but sound quite similar to FC)


----------



## penmarker

exSpire said:


> That's actually exactly what happened when the issue started. I turn the DAC on each day and turn it off at night. So at first, I would only hear it for a few minutes. Later on it would take longer and longer.. That's originally why I suspected it was the tube, since it was Ok once the tube was warmed up. A few months later and it wouldn't go away anymore, the buzzing is there all the time.
> So you're saying its the DAC board?
> 
> By the way, what about contacting the manufacturer.. I bet its out of warranty, but I've had some nice experiences with some big companies before. Although I got mine from Massdrop.


In my case it was the DAC board, and I think it might have been one of the components (like the capacitors as mentioned above). I sent it in for repairs and they replaced the board with a Aune T1 Mk2 board. It went away and works fine after the replacement.

When mine was faulty, I thought it was the tube too so I replaced it and it ended up damaging the tubes. My hunch is it messes with the bias voltage or something and the tube was running over the spec on the faulty. Heating up the tube by wrapping with thick cloth helped temporarily. I had to increase 1 gain on the ok channel to get it matched.

I didn't contact Aune but I contacted a local dealer (Stars Picker in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia). They were nice enough to help with the parts acquisition and repairs for a modest fee and I think they're the best.


----------



## octav2018

Hello. For a while, my aune t1se doesn t recognized by my laptop. I installed driver for it but it doesn t work. What can I do? Thanks.


----------



## CoiL

What OS are You using?


----------



## HeavenNotes

Hello.  Using this hub worked for me.  
*Belkin USB 2.0 4-Port Ultra-Mini Hub *


----------



## CoiL

Does not matter which hub You use with Aune T1 as it doesn`t draw any power from USB, only digital data signal.


----------



## octav2018

I used windows 10 1809 build .Also tried USB hub powered and doesn t work


----------



## CoiL

Use in compability mode (windows7) and try ASIO4ALL.


----------



## rwpritchett (Jan 6, 2019)

Well, I've had my T1 (MK1) for 5 years now but it looks like it no longer is recognized by my PC over USB or my phone via OTG. I get a "Device Descriptor Request Failed" error. Looks like the T1 USB board has crapped out.

Does anyone have any DIY repair advice for me or first-hand experience with paying for repair through Aune?

Edit: Yes, I've tried different USB cables and different USB ports.


----------



## CoiL

Did You try unistalling of drivers and clearing registry and installing new one? To me seem like it could be issue of broken windows library/registry too. No idea though.
Try with other PC to be sure.


----------



## rwpritchett

Yeah, already tried on different PC. Do they sell the USB PCB part? Maybe I could do a full cap upgrade while I'm in there. Otherwise, I may have a bunch of T1 tubes to sell.


----------



## CoiL

I don`t see there a separate USB board. USB connects straight to main PCB. So, best thing to do, is to get it to electronics specialist and let him test for faulty components.
My guess is USB receiver chip related fault.


----------



## CoiL

For information - OPA1612 works nicely instead NE5532 @ headphone amp board. OOTB, I like it more than AD8599ARZ which was little too much "detail thrown in face" but also very good.
Will leave it playing for week and report back vs. NE5532.


----------



## karlsbergh

Placed an order on a silver Aune T1 SE mk3 to power my Audio Technica ATH-R70x.
It was 35% off, so decided to try it instead of going for the Schiit stack.

Never had tubes before, so it´ll be an interesting try.


----------



## CoiL

karlsbergh said:


> Never had tubes before, so it´ll be an interesting try.


I feel sorry for You - it is addictive and gets expensive very fast! 

But this thing with some upgraded internal hardware and right tubes sounds "TOTL" to my ears and wallet


----------



## HeavenNotes (Jan 13, 2019)

karlsbergh said:


> Placed an order on a silver Aune T1 SE mk3 to power my Audio Technica ATH-R70x.
> It was 35% off, so decided to try it instead of going for the Schiit stack.
> 
> Never had tubes before, so it´ll be an interesting try.


. You will enjoy it.  I'm using mine with Macbook pro today with CCA tube one of my favorites.


----------



## CoiL

I`m currently having WOAH! O_o out of OPA2228PA as headphone board opamp! This sounds freaking gooood! ;P
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the-opamp-thread.432749/page-426#post-14733271


----------



## octav2018

Hello. Finally my Aune T1 SE was defective(something on usb board) and i chose to replace it with aune x1s 10 th anniversary edition instead send the T1 to China.  Does somebody knows if T1 SE to have more power than x1s 10 th annyversary edition? It seems to me that aune T1 SE deliveried more power to my beyerdynamic dt 990 premium edition then my new aune x1s ? Thanks for help


----------



## octav2018

...dt 990 premium edition 250 ohms


----------



## CoiL

Well, @ high gain T1 should give out ~1000mA as I remember, don`t remember volts atm.


----------



## wenbinbin2010

Picked up a used Aune T1 mk2 to use as a DAC only out to my iDSD Micro Black Label amp. Sounds excellent! Really couldn't decide on what route to go down to upgrade my DAC, but I couldn't pass up on the Aune for $80. Also came with a Genelex Gold Lion...and now I'm curious about the Amperex 7308.

Clear improvement over the DAC of the iDSD Micro BL, at least in terms of harmonics and life-likeness. Soundstage and detail resolution about the same, so I think it's mostly the tube-coloring that I'm benefiting from. Still have GAS to go big with something in the Gungnir range, but this Aune is very satisfying for now.

Headphone is an Audeze LCD-3. The tube tames some of the upper-end harshness that I was surprised to hear from an Audeze headphone, but that's apparently the voicing for the latest LCD-3 drivers.


----------



## CoiL

Get Yourself one of those tubes: Amperex Orange Globe 6Dj8, Amperex 7308, Siemens E88CC, then upgrade opamps to OPA2228PA and change capacitors for Panasonic FR (power filtering) + ELNA SilmicII for all others = crazy good sound! ;P


----------



## rwpritchett

If anyone is looking for T1 spare parts or has the skill to transplant a USB board in a T1, I've posted mine for sale:

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/fs-aune-t1-mk1-usb-dac-not-working-amplifier-does-work.899763/


----------



## CoiL

Got my DAC differential opamp roll-able socket installed and currently immensely enjoying OPA1692IDR + OPA2228PA 
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the-opamp-thread.432749/page-444#post-15008606


----------



## exSpire

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...60-44b2-9cfa-e48e8d9ae2eb&transAbTest=ae803_5

Would this fit the Aune T1? As a replacement power brick?


----------



## penmarker

No, why would you want to replace it? Is your power brick broken?


----------



## marsza11

What tube is warm sound?


----------



## wgkwgk

Our friend Coil has done _tons_ of research on this (and other) topics.  Maybe do a little digging in the archives.  There is so much that goes in to sound perceptions, such as "warm".


----------



## Cheesedoodle

I did a lot of research into this a few years ago, too. If I recall, the short answer is that lots of people prefer vintage Amperex Orange Globes. I bought a pair and agreed they were the "warmest" and most holographic to my ears.


----------



## hdtv00

Yep 100% correct Amperex Orange Globe for sure. With varying sound slightly by the different getter types. But yep that's where you want to start for sure.


----------



## CoiL (Oct 11, 2019)

wgkwgk said:


> Our friend Coil has done _tons_ of research on this (and other) topics.  Maybe do a little digging in the archives.  There is so much that goes in to sound perceptions, such as "warm".





Cheesedoodle said:


> I did a lot of research into this a few years ago, too. If I recall, the short answer is that lots of people prefer vintage Amperex Orange Globes. I bought a pair and agreed they were the "warmest" and most holographic to my ears.





hdtv00 said:


> Yep 100% correct Amperex Orange Globe for sure. With varying sound slightly by the different getter types. But yep that's where you want to start for sure.



Agree with above. Start (end) with Amperex OG because it is quite easily available as NOS or used (which is fine in T1 buffer implementation) and really is great tube match for Aune T1 hardware.
There are some very similar sounding(even better) tubes but they are hard to find and probably cost a lot.
Green label JAN Sylvania 6922 is also nice and quite easily available but rather towards V-shaped in FR compared to OG.
When you decide to get OG - prefer version that is made in Heerlen Holland factory (delta sign) and has single leg supported dimpled disc getter.

Good luck! 

If You have opportunity or skills for hardware modding, then I highly recommend to upgrade capacitors - it makes a lot difference and is cheap upgrade.


----------



## wgkwgk

When I had my T1 I did a lot of rolling and narrowed it down to four tube "keepers", one of which is the OG.  I have that in the A-frame version and three others (CCa Seimans 1968, Mullard CV2492 gold pins, Telefunken E88CC1) just sitting in their boxes.  All NOS (late 60's early 70's).  I never got around to posting them for sale.  PM me if interested.


----------



## GS1874

I'll leave this here in case it helps someone. After about 5 years my Aune T1 recently failed, which of course bummed me out. I spent several days troubleshooting the problem and was able to recover it for not too much money. 

One of big input electrolytic caps had failed and was leaking goo.  These filter the main +/- 18VAC power input and turn it into +/-23VDC rails.  I could actually hear it sputtering when the oil was leaking out of the caps. Caps were 3300uF, 25V (C35 and C36). The size, especially the height is important so they fit in the case. Replacement caps I found in stock that fit the space were Nichion UBY1E332MHL1TN.  

Unfortunately during this event an onboard switching regulator that steps down to 5V also failed. This is marked U9.  Good news is these are available on ebay.  Search for KIS-3R33S - DC DC converter 7-24V in, 5V, 3A out.  You may have to buy it as part of a PCB and desolder it. It might have a plastic case around it.  Be a little careful as there are several similar little DC DC converters sold under the same PN that are obviously a completely different footprint.  Also, even though the footprint was the same I had to add a 10k pulldown resistor to the DC DC converter adjust pin to make it put out 5V.  There is nothing tricky going on with that supply, it just steps 24V down to 5V.  So if you can't get one, really any step down DC DC converter with appropriate rating could work.

U11 which is a -15V LDO also failed.  I noted another post where someone had this part fail too.  This turns the -23V rail into -15V.  It was passing -23V to the output instead of regulating to -15V.  There is a +15V LDO right next to it.  It's an ON Semi part labeled 79M15G. I could not find this anywhere and struggled to even find an ON datasheet for it.  I replaced it with MC79M15CDTG, which is also a DPak size and 500mA.

Finally I also had to replace the tube, one side somehow got messed up during that event and was distorting the signal.  Interestingly, the tube is in a common anode configuration with the output taken off the cathode.  The gain is basically 1, the signal passes through the tube but is not amplified at all. Also the heater voltage is only 5.0V but Electro-Harmonix gives possible range as 6.0 to 6.6V.  I have no idea how this affects the sound.


----------



## CoiL

GS1874 said:


> Caps were 3300uF, 25V (C35 and C36). The size, especially the height is important so they fit in the case. Replacement caps I found in stock that fit the space were Nichion UBY1E332MHL1TN.


Panasonic FR caps have very good specs, are widely available and cheap for that replacement. Other caps, use Panasonic FC if want cheap and great sound, SilmicII or Cerafine if have more money and want "the best".


----------



## Cheesedoodle

Anyone familiar with Aune's new version — the T1s 4th Gen? Looks like it might be a nice upgrade. I only see it online in a few places, and very little info online about it generally. Currently looks a lot more expensive than its predecessor (around $500).


----------



## CoiL

Cheesedoodle said:


> Anyone familiar with Aune's new version — the T1s 4th Gen? Looks like it might be a nice upgrade. I only see it online in a few places, and very little info online about it generally. Currently looks a lot more expensive than its predecessor (around $500).


Very interesting indeed! Though, with such price I`m afraid it won`t sell and might bring T1 to end. Hope they lower price noticeably.

Btw, anyone can recommend cheap tablet with android which is able to connect Aune T1 (1st gen) as DAC via USB (ALSA) ?
I have one old tablet which is totally fine for music player on desk or shelf but it doesn`t identify T1 as android version is too old and CPU doesn`t support external DAC (currently using it for iMM-6 IEM measurements).


----------



## Old Deaf Donkey (Jan 12, 2020)

teb1013 said:


> Just got a Schiit Vali 2, using the Aune T1 as DAC only. So far the quality of the sound is great. Seems to have more depth than the Anne's onboard amp, despite years of faithful service. I'm going to do some AB testing to see if I'm correct about the improvement.


That's my endgame. Gorgeous sound with AKG K702. various tubes, currently twin single triodes Sylvania VT-192 in aune T1, and Ken-Rad black glass VT-231 in Vali 2.

I also use another setup that sounds great: aune t1 Mk3 with Koss E90 and ESP-95X.


----------



## CoiL

Old Deaf Donkey said:


> That's my endgame. Gorgeous sound with AKG K702. various tubes, currently twin single triodes Sylvania VT-192 in aune T1, and Ken-Rad black glass VT-231 in Vali 2.
> 
> I also use another setup that sounds great: aune t1 Mk3 with Koss E90 and ESP-95X.


Get rid of those crappy stock capacitors in Aune T1 too 
I stopped tube-rolling after about 80+ tubes... especially after getting rare 5x Siemens-Halske E88CC golpins and finging some "same sounding" cheap alternative family tubes, + Amperex OGs and some other great rarities (Miniwatt, Ultron, Pinnacle).
But "ENDGAME" sound quality came after upgrading DAC differential opamp (OPA1692IDR) and HO opamp (OPA2228). I wasn`t hoping wonders from opamp-rolling and thought in the end would still have to buy separate amp... but luckily no


----------



## Old Deaf Donkey

CoiL said:


> Get rid of those crappy stock capacitors in Aune T1 too
> I stopped tube-rolling after about 80+ tubes... especially after getting rare 5x Siemens-Halske E88CC golpins and finging some "same sounding" cheap alternative family tubes, + Amperex OGs and some other great rarities (Miniwatt, Ultron, Pinnacle).
> But "ENDGAME" sound quality came after upgrading DAC differential opamp (OPA1692IDR) and HO opamp (OPA2228). I wasn`t hoping wonders from opamp-rolling and thought in the end would still have to buy separate amp... but luckily no


Thank you for the suggestions. Unfortunately, I do not have soldering skills. So, changing capacitors and opamps is beyond my options. Aune t1 Mk3 DAC sounds quite good already as is, would improvements be noticeable? I am only using the DAC.


----------



## Cheesedoodle

The new 4th gen T1 apparently has upgraded capacitors (and DAC chip), so that might be an option to consider if you want upgrades but can’t solder. I’m definitely eyeing it.


----------



## CoiL

Cheesedoodle said:


> The new 4th gen T1 apparently has upgraded capacitors (and DAC chip), so that might be an option to consider if you want upgrades but can’t solder. I’m definitely eyeing it.


Old one also uses WIMA caps in certain places. Seems those bi-polar caps would be "improvement" but no mention about 1st and 2nd stage power filtering caps, which are very important.
4th gen T1 main improvement probably comes from DAC chip over older versions  - ES9038Q2M vs. DSD1793.
Also, seems MK4 doesn`t have any gain swithing option anymore (not sure though) but additional feature is AptX BT5.0.
https://www.auneaudio-europe.com/in...ver-4th-gen-headphone-tube-amplifier-dac.html


----------



## Cheesedoodle

That's helpful, thanks.

It does seem the gain switch is still there. Quoting from the page you linked to:

Gain switch     0dB
10dB
16dB​Bluetooth addition is kind of a bummer, in my opinion. I guess they have to add it these days to make it "future proof," but it adds to the cost and is probably a feature many audiophiles won't use.



CoiL said:


> Old one also uses WIMA caps in certain places. Seems those bi-polar caps would be "improvement" but no mention about 1st and 2nd stage power filtering caps, which are very important.
> 4th gen T1 main improvement probably comes from DAC chip over older versions  - ES9038Q2M vs. DSD1793.
> Also, seems MK4 doesn`t have any gain swithing option anymore (not sure though) but additional feature is AptX BT5.0.
> https://www.auneaudio-europe.com/in...ver-4th-gen-headphone-tube-amplifier-dac.html


----------



## CoiL

Aaaah yeah, sorry, didn`t notice gain lvls.


----------



## exSpire

Hey guys. I'm having noises coming from the right channel on my Aune T1.
Yesterday I took it apart, cleaned it up inside and somehow it worked. I figured that the problem was solved. However today the issue is back. Any ideas of what it could be?
I've taken some pictures of the boards.
Thanks in advance.

https://imgur.com/a/bP2Quvu

I can take better pictures of certain area if needed, just let me know.


----------



## GS1874 (Jan 18, 2020)

exSpire, the way to find the problem would be to put a nice clean sine wave through it and then probe the signal path with an oscilloscope until you find out where the signal is getting distorted.  I would guess there is a pretty good chance it's the tube.  I had a failing tube produce the exact symptom you are describing.


----------



## exSpire

Yesterday after messing about and trying to clean the entire thing, the problem was gone. I enjoyed the DAC for a few hours before turning it off. Today its making noises again (right channel, sort of a buzz, like crumpling papers). So it makes me think that it has something to do with contacts somewhere. However I tried messing around with it today again but to no avail. 
Don't have an oscilloscope.


----------



## CoiL

exSpire said:


> Hey guys. I'm having noises coming from the right channel on my Aune T1.
> Yesterday I took it apart, cleaned it up inside and somehow it worked. I figured that the problem was solved. However today the issue is back. Any ideas of what it could be?
> I've taken some pictures of the boards.
> Thanks in advance.
> ...


1st of all - try your unit as amp only and remove the tube (source via RCA input, so that tube is bypassed). If so there are no noises, then fault is probably in tube.
Try another tube and listen if the problem stays. 
Otherwise from pics everything seems ok, though, hard to see all solder points. might be also cracked/disjoined solder connection somewhere.
Btw, those main power filtering capacitors are quite junk (big black ones with orange markings) - highly recommended to replace those. 
Cheap but good Panasonic FR are great replacement there, no need for high priced "snake oil" caps.


----------



## exSpire (Jan 19, 2020)

Hey and thanks for helping.

Don't have any RCA cables, but I did try two different tubes. In fact, I purchased the second one thinking it may solve the issue.
Also:


> Yesterday after messing about and trying to clean the entire thing, the problem was gone. I enjoyed the DAC for a few hours before turning it off. Today its making noises again (right channel, sort of a buzz, like crumpling papers). So it makes me think that it has something to do with contacts somewhere. However I tried messing around with it today again but to no avail.



Is there anything else I can try?
If I get a multi-meter, can I solve this thing?

By the way, is this correct:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Elko-Panas...663561?hash=item2a71404409:g:5KsAAOSwyQtVsjVW
?


----------



## penmarker

Last time that crackling happened to me, the tube was faulty. But the faulty tube was caused by the faulty DAC board. I replaced the DAC board from the dealer and replaced my tube as well and its good again.

Can you try to wrap the tube up in paper or cloth so it heats up and see (hear) whether the problem persists?


----------



## CoiL (Jan 20, 2020)

exSpire said:


> By the way, is this correct:
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Elko-Panas...663561?hash=item2a71404409:g:5KsAAOSwyQtVsjVW


Yep, those are right ones.
Sidenote - you need to install those sideways


----------



## 5h0l3e5

Can anyone tell me if the amp section of T1SE is any good? I've read a few people's opinions and they said it sounded really good and comparable to their other more expensive amps.

I know the amp section is improved compare to the mk2. I just don't know how much.


----------



## eclap

Long time lurker, about time I post on here...

I have been using the Aune T1 with my Sennheiser HD650 exclusively for quite a few years now and I love the sound... But, I also have a set of Beyerdynamic DT880 PRO as a back up and Audio Technica AD700. And, my brother has a "terrible" set up consisting of onboard audio on his PC and some HyperX headset. 

I'm thinking about handing down my Aune T1 and Beyer DT880 PRO to him and replacing the Aune T1 for myself in the process. 

Is there a consensus on the "best" DAC/headphone amp for the HD650? I've been out of the loop for quite some while. The budget would be somewhere within the £300 budget. Also, it would have to be an audible upgrade over the Aune T1, if possible.

Thanks for any suggestions.


----------



## CoiL

eclap said:


> Long time lurker, about time I post on here...
> 
> I have been using the Aune T1 with my Sennheiser HD650 exclusively for quite a few years now and I love the sound... But, I also have a set of Beyerdynamic DT880 PRO as a back up and Audio Technica AD700. And, my brother has a "terrible" set up consisting of onboard audio on his PC and some HyperX headset.
> 
> ...


Audible "upgrade" is sooo subjective, especially T1 with its rollable tube signatures.
Personally I would upgrade inside hardware parts and get some additional tubes for different signatures and be happy with it (especially when You already have some great tubes and love the sound pairing).


----------



## wgkwgk

Four high-end tubes for T1:
First go with whatever CoiL says.  I've learned tons from him. 
I sold my T1 a few years back, and truth be told, the upgrade was somewhat marginal.
Anyway,  I have four genuine NOS tubes that have been just sitting around: 

Please LMK if interested.  I'd go $125 for all.

Mullard CV24921970'sgold pinsSiemensCca1968AmperexECC881970A-frame, Orange GlobeTelefunkenE88CC


----------



## CoiL

wgkwgk said:


> SiemensCca1968


Dat tube should sound great.
I have have some rare Siemens E88CC goldpins from 60`s and they are my favourites paired with Fidelio X1 as they dial back bass area little and have huge holographic stage.


----------



## eclap

CoiL said:


> Audible "upgrade" is sooo subjective, especially T1 with its rollable tube signatures.
> Personally I would upgrade inside hardware parts and get some additional tubes for different signatures and be happy with it (especially when You already have some great tubes and love the sound pairing).


Appreciate the advice but I'm not good at the kind of mods you're suggesting, soldering and such is not something I have ever done. I have a couple of tubes and the one I'm using is the one I like the most as it gives a nice wide sound stage, I can't remember what make/model it is though so can't tell you. 

Even at stock, you reckon the T1 is still fine to drive the HD650 and deliver a solid sound? I just had the itch to see if there's something "better" out there, regardless of how personal that might be. 

The upgrades I see in your sig, what do they achieve exactly?


----------



## CoiL

eclap said:


> The upgrades I see in your sig, what do they achieve exactly?


In short summary - tighter/punchier and more detailed bass/percussion with also overall improvement in micro-details and clarity/layering.
Yeah, those mods aren`t so easy but personally I feel no need "upgrading" my gear as it just sounds flawless for my ears and I can enjoy music without thinking on gear


----------



## eclap

CoiL said:


> In short summary - tighter/punchier and more detailed bass/percussion with also overall improvement in micro-details and clarity/layering.
> Yeah, those mods aren`t so easy but personally I feel no need "upgrading" my gear as it just sounds flawless for my ears and I can enjoy music without thinking on gear


Thanks for explaining. In all honesty, the only reason I was looking to move on from the Aune T1 is because my brother would love it and that would leave me with an open slot for myself to get a new shiny headphone AMP/DAC. 

Alternatively, seeing as I've been really happy with the T1 and HD650 for many years, I'm still going to hand down my Beyer DT880 PROs to my brother. What would be a good AMP/DAC/Soundcard to drive those?


----------



## Mark the Red

Long time Aune T1 owner.   Love it. Still working great.

I moved my office upstairs from my main beefy computer rig, and ran a usb extender via cat6.  Everything works great, but when I use all 4 ports of the hub, I am getting constant power shortages.

Do any of you know how much current the Aune T1 draws from the USB signal cable.  I have the supplied power supply plugged in, but I am trying to rule out whether it is the Aune or the USB mic drawing too much current.

Nothing on the Aune website caches lets me know this.

Thank you if you can help.


----------



## Buttnose (May 1, 2020)

Mark the Red said:


> Long time Aune T1 owner.   Love it. Still working great.
> 
> I moved my office upstairs from my main beefy computer rig, and ran a usb extender via cat6.  Everything works great, but when I use all 4 ports of the hub, I am getting constant power shortages.
> 
> ...




I still use V1 T1 and although it works fine atm over the years I've often had problems with it either slowly killing usb ports it's plugged into or needing be switched on/off multiple times before being recognized and working properly in windows. I don't think it's the usb ports as none of my other devices have caused any problems like that, it's always the port that the aune is plugged into that has problems. I have a vague memory of someone posting that they had run into a similar problem years ago and suspected something similar to what you're describing, but I couldn't find the post (dunno if it was on here or not) despite searching.

How is it you are recognizing it to be a power shortage? Sorry I can't help regarding current, but thought I'd let you know someone else is having the same trouble and I've long suspected the T1 to have a problem like this!


----------



## CoiL

Mark the Red said:


> Long time Aune T1 owner.   Love it. Still working great.
> 
> I moved my office upstairs from my main beefy computer rig, and ran a usb extender via cat6.  Everything works great, but when I use all 4 ports of the hub, I am getting constant power shortages.
> 
> ...


Aune T1 does not use any power from USB, only DATA+/DATA-.
Seems You have grounding issues somewhere in chain/system.
I`m running my Aune T1 with USB +5V rail disabled(chopped off) but left ground - in use for shielding purpose.


----------



## jipan

I know this is old thread, and Aune T1 is old product, but I need help. My Aune headphone jack is busted (only left side make good contact, so I don't have any sound in right side), and I have friends who good at soldering and desoldering, but  what kind of headphone jack is used in Aune T1 amp section?
Can it replaced by another type? If by any chance I can't find same jack type.

Thank you for your help.


----------



## joeq70

jipan said:


> I know this is old thread, and Aune T1 is old product, but I need help. My Aune headphone jack is busted (only left side make good contact, so I don't have any sound in right side), and I have friends who good at soldering and desoldering, but  what kind of headphone jack is used in Aune T1 amp section?
> Can it replaced by another type? If by any chance I can't find same jack type.
> 
> Thank you for your help.


Hello friend! Welcome back to this once thriving thread! Maybe we can bring it back to life a bit. 

So,  I decided recently to upgrade the caps in my t1 unit. Unfortunately, I may have screwed up haha. I'm still working it out. However, If you give me a few moments, I will open her up now and check to see what kind of headphone jack this uses. Then, I'll try to find a suitable replacement online. 

On a side note, I ordered the Aune T1s (mk 4) which I can find nary an impression on. Allegedly the caps are already improved and dac and amp sections improved as well. I'm certainly curious. Originally this baby was selling for $400 or so, but it is currently on eBay for $289. I also ordered an Aune XP3 linear power supply to pair with it. 

For whatever reason, no matter what gear I have tried over the years, I can't stop myself from coming back to the T1.


----------



## joeq70




----------



## joeq70

I believe that this is what you want:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BHESQVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_7GRPFb906D0JY


----------



## GS1874

jipan said:


> I know this is old thread, and Aune T1 is old product, but I need help. My Aune headphone jack is busted (only left side make good contact, so I don't have any sound in right side), and I have friends who good at soldering and desoldering, but  what kind of headphone jack is used in Aune T1 amp section?
> Can it replaced by another type? If by any chance I can't find same jack type.
> 
> Thank you for your help.


You should open it up and check the solder joints on the headphone jack. It's possible one is loose and it just needs to be retouched. This is often the failure point for input jacks. If it's really internal to the headphone jack, the contacts are just bent metal to provide the spring action. You might be able to get in there with a small screwdriver and bend the contact back. Joeq70, nice find on the jack, that sure does look like it.


----------



## jipan

Oh, thank you so much for the help! I'm not tech savy, so having the name to ask in the shop is mighty helpful.... That Amazon link is great!
Also, I'll try to bend the contact pin carefully first, nice info on that!

Thank you again for the kind help. I used Aune T1 in DAC mode when I'm tired of my current DAC (Topping E30) or want something more organic. Topping E30 sure above Aune T1 in technical aspects, but it can too cold and sterile, while Aune T1 DAC have enough that organic-analog sound. It's not the cleanest output (especially compared to E30) but I kind of like it time to time.


----------



## hopf

I want to say Thank You for all the goog information in this thread.

Got my Aune T1SE MK3 two days ago. Listening with Fostex TH-X00 headphones. And enjoying it very, very much. 
It is a used unit from ebay. Came with a Philips JAN 6922 tube. I retired my Fostex HP-A3 after a few comparisons. The Aune sounds better to me.

Today I got several deliveries of tubes. Now have 10. And I like tube rolling very much. Although i found it more difficult to define the differences between the tubes than I expected. Now playing is an Amperex 7308. Love it.


----------



## wgkwgk

hopf said:


> I want to say Thank You for all the goog information in this thread.
> 
> Got my Aune T1SE MK3 two days ago. Listening with Fostex TH-X00 headphones. And enjoying it very, very much.
> It is a used unit from ebay. Came with a Philips JAN 6922 tube. I retired my Fostex HP-A3 after a few comparisons. The Aune sounds better to me.
> ...


Yes, discerning tube differences can be a challenge.  During my tube rolling days many pundits poo-pooed major differences given the variability in human hearing across people.
That said, I did have tons of fun rolling.


----------



## joeq70

wgkwgk said:


> Yes, discerning tube differences can be a challenge.  During my tube rolling days many pundits poo-pooed major differences given the variability in human hearing across people.
> That said, I did have tons of fun rolling.


I noticed that some headphones are more sensitive to tube changes than others. 

Side note: I have been using the Aune T1s (mk 4) for a couple months now and am enjoying it greatly. It's a terrific match for my modded Verum One mk2.


----------



## wgkwgk

Yes, I agree.  I went through about 10 tubes as well and settled on 4.  Tested across 5 cans and 2 iems.  Phew!


----------



## hopf

I spent the last three days in a listening room with a big Synästec Audio stereo system of exellent quality. Hooked up the Aune T1 and my laptop using the headphone port of the Aune. And did some tube rolling.
The only tube I now still like is the Amperex 7308. The others: Philips ECG JAN 6922, Amperex 6DJ8 Bugle Boy, Mullard ECC88 Made In GB, Siemens ECC88 081, Philips ECC88  Made In Holland, Valvo ECC88, Valvo E88CC and Ultron SQ PCC189 are not nearly as good. At least to me on this system, but the Amperex also sounds best on my headphones.
Any recommendations on tube types as good as the Amperex? Unfortunately anything less will not do anymore.


----------



## hdtv00

Ahhh but WHICH Orange Globe is it that's when you're really start wondering haha.


----------



## CoiL

hopf said:


> Ultron SQ PCC189 are not nearly as good.


Can You take picture please?
I have 2 Ultrons which sound almost as good as my Siemens/Halske E88CC goldpin from 60`s.
Not sure about my Ultrons having same PCC189 code, maybe it was PCC88. I still have around 80 tubes lying around from tube-rolling days with Aune T1 mk1 (still using it and it is heavily modded).


----------



## Cheesedoodle

Some others earlier have mentioned the new Aune T1 s 32-bit. I just received mine a few days ago. I'm a long-time user and fan of the T1SE mk3, and this new generation is a major upgrade, in my opinion. The soundstage, holographic impression, and detail in the new unit are considerably more impressive than that of the older units. And that is using the stock Electro-Harmonix tube! I used the Amperex Orange Globe in my older T1SE, which sounded great, but even with the stock tube the new generation sounds better, like, quite a lot better. I am quite wowed, for $289 (I got mine on Amazon). Absolutely worth the upgrade. Will be interesting to try some of my other tubes (Amperex Orange Globes nd Amperex PQ).


----------



## eclap

Cheesedoodle said:


> Some others earlier have mentioned the new Aune T1 s 32-bit. I just received mine a few days ago. I'm a long-time user and fan of the T1SE mk3, and this new generation is a major upgrade, in my opinion. The soundstage, holographic impression, and detail in the new unit are considerably more impressive than that of the older units. And that is using the stock Electro-Harmonix tube! I used the Amperex Orange Globe in my older T1SE, which sounded great, but even with the stock tube the new generation sounds better, like, quite a lot better. I am quite wowed, for $289 (I got mine on Amazon). Absolutely worth the upgrade. Will be interesting to try some of my other tubes (Amperex Orange Globes nd Amperex PQ).


Now then, I didn't even know this existed! Thank you for the info, I'll have a good look into the new Aune! I honestly still love the original, have had it for many years now and it's never missed a beat. If this new one looks as good as you say, I might just invest and move on my T1 to my brother, along with my backup headphones (Beyerdynamics DT 880 PRO 250 Ohm). My brother is using some £20 gaming headset with LEDs and onboard sound, this would be night and day upgrade for him and a possible upgrade for me. 2 in 1 hit.


----------



## Sam21 (May 7, 2021)

I am looking forward to buy an Aune T1se ..

I have a couple of questions:

(1) What is the difference between T1se mk1 vs mk2 vs mk3 ? what upgrades were made in each revision ? 

(2) How do I know the unit I am buying is mk1 or mk2 or mk3 ? 

Many Thanks


----------



## 5h0l3e5 (May 8, 2021)

Sam21 said:


> I am looking forward to buy an Aune T1se ..
> 
> I have a couple of questions:
> 
> ...


1. T1se has a new amp section which is more powerful than mk2. T1se is 240mw @300ohm according to the official statement. MK2 is only 160mw @300ohm according to here:
https://reference-audio-analyzer.pro/en/report/amp/aune-t1-max.php#gsc.tab=0

The DAC is DSD1793 instead of PCM1793. The other differences are mentioned here:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/aun...-faq-updated-on-02-14-15.633006/post-12744795

2. It's written on the unit itself. On T1SE is written "T1SE TUBE USB DAC" where on MK2 is written "T1 24BIT TUBE USB DAC"

Note: T1SE is T1 MK3. There's no T1SE MK1 or MK2. It's:
T1 MK1
T1 MK2
T1SE

There's also T1S which is the fourth generation of T1 series (MK 4). That's very different from these three units.


----------



## Sam21

A question: 

To which of the following categories does T1se belong to: ?

(1) The tube is at the end of the analog stage after the signal has passed through many solid-state chips.

(2) Once the DAC chip converts the signal from digital to analog, the analog signal moves through connectors to the analog PCB, and then the signal is handled by vacuum tubes only without solid-state components

Many Thanks


----------



## 5h0l3e5

Sam21 said:


> A question:
> 
> To which of the following categories does T1se belong to: ?
> 
> ...


The DAC chip converts the signal to analog, the analog signal is passed through the tube, then the signal is amplified by a SS op-amp.

It's a tube hybrid design but the difference with the general design is that the line-out signal is DAC + tube so you can amplify the signal with any amps that you want. The line-in signal passes only through the SS op-amp.
That's why it's called tube dac.


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## Cheesedoodle (May 9, 2021)

5h0l3e5 said:


> It's a tube hybrid design but the difference with the general design is that the line-out signal is DAC + tube so you can amplify the signal with any amps that you want. The line-in signal passes only through the SS op-amp.
> That's why it's called tube dac.



I would add that unless you are getting a great deal on a used older unit, the T1s (ie, 4th gen) makes a lot more sense for the money these days than a mkII or mkIII.


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## Sam21

5h0l3e5 said:


> The DAC chip converts the signal to analog, the analog signal is passed through the tube, then the signal is amplified by a SS op-amp.



My(incomplete) understanding of the *analog stage*: When the DAC chip converts the digital signal to an analog signal and outputs the analog signal through its pins, This analog signal is a bit weak, So there is a need for an *analog stage, *which(usually) amplifies the signal to line level and outputs it through RCA outs or in Aune's case, it is sent to a solid state amp.

This is how Aune works: DAC chip -> DAC's analog stage -> SS amp ... 

We are only concerned about the analog stage of the DAC:

There can be three types of analog stages for a Tube DACS:

(1) The first type has *tube(s) only *for its analog stage.

(2) The second type has a tube at the beginning of the analog stage and solid state components at the end.(notice that this is the analog stage of the DAC so this all happens before the amp stage.

(3) The third type has solid state components at the beginning of the analog stage and tube(s) at the end.

For instance, This tube DAC belongs to type (1) ..... What categories do TubeMagic D1+ and Aune T1se belong to ?


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## 5h0l3e5

Sam21 said:


> My(incomplete) understanding of the *analog stage*: When the DAC chip converts the digital signal to an analog signal and outputs the analog signal through its pins, This analog signal is a bit weak, So there is a need for an *analog stage, *which(usually) amplifies the signal to line level and outputs it through RCA outs or in Aune's case, it is sent to a solid state amp.
> 
> This is how Aune works: DAC chip -> DAC's analog stage -> SS amp ...
> 
> ...


I'm sure it's not 1. Aune T1SE uses NE5532A to amplify the weak signal to line-level signal. I don't know whether it's 2 or 3 but I guess it's 3.


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## Sam21 (May 10, 2021)

5h0l3e5 said:


> Aune T1SE uses NE5532A to amplify the weak signal to line-level signal.


NE5532A is in the DAC's analog stage right ? and by weak signal you mean the analog signal that is immediately outputted by DSD1793 ?


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## 5h0l3e5

Sam21 said:


> This is the DAC's analog stage right ? and by weak signal you mean the analog signal that is immediately outputted by DSD1793 ?


Yes. This post says:


> Texas Instruments N5532A OPAMP for DAC section.


It is generally said that the tube section of Aune T1 series is a buffer which means the gain is 1. I don't have any proof for that but if you search "buffer" in this thread, many people would agree that the tube doesn't change the gain. So it's N5532A's job to increase the analog signal outputted by DSD1793.


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## Sam21

Do I get tube sound through the headphone out and the line out as well ?


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## 5h0l3e5 (May 10, 2021)

Sam21 said:


> Do I get tube sound through the headphone out and the line out as well ?


Yes. Actually, You get the tube sound only in those two ways. The line-in is only the SS amp.
It does sound tubey. If you change the tube, the sound signature changes significantly.


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## Sam21

Ordered a se...should be here in a couple of days...


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## Sam21

ok...got mine in the mail today....here are the photos: 

https://ibb.co/7WXk5R8
https://ibb.co/D7DNrWP

This is the MK3 right ? and where can I find the power specs ? are the following power specs correct:?

32ohm: 1000MW 
120ohm: 400MW 
300ohm: 150MW

What is the MK2 power specs ?


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## 5h0l3e5 (May 13, 2021)

Sam21 said:


> ok...got mine in the mail today....here are the photos:
> 
> https://ibb.co/7WXk5R8
> https://ibb.co/D7DNrWP
> ...


Yes. That's T1SE (MK3). Congratulations.

The official power output is 240mw @300ohm. There's no official power spec for 32 or 120 ohm.
Those numbers that you've mentioned are for MK2.

One of the improvements of T1SE compared to MK2 is the amp section. It's more powerful and sounds better.

Don't know if you bought it new or not, but if you've bought it new, the tube (6922EH) needs lots of burn-in to sound good. I'm talking about 200 hours or so. Don't run it 24 hours, though.


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## Sam21

5h0l3e5 said:


> There's no official power spec for 32 or 120 ohm.


Is there a way to figure this out ? Has anyone done any measurements ? Will Aune give out this info if I contact them ?

I want to buy around 5 different tubes for this....what is your recommendation ? or should I read through this thread ?


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## 5h0l3e5

Sam21 said:


> Is there a way to figure this out ? Has anyone done any measurements ? Will Aune give out this info if I contact them ?
> 
> I want to buy around 5 different tubes for this....what is your recommendation ? or should I read through this thread ?


Someone has to measure T1SE. I couldn't find anyone who has measured it.

For tubes, personally, I like the stock tube the most because it's the most neutral one. I recommend these:

Genalex Gold Lion E88CC
Amperex 7308

I would be better to search the thread or at least read the first post for tube reviews. They change the sound signature, that's for sure but the result is subjective.


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## Sam21 (May 20, 2021)

Since this amp has an output impedance of 10 ohms, does it match well with the following headphones:?

Sennheiser HD58x              *150 ohms*
AKG K701                           * 63 ohms*
Sony MA900                       *12 ohms   * 
Hifiman HE-400                   *35 ohms*
Fostex T50RPMK3                *50 ohms*
Grado SR225i                       *32 ohms    * 
M-Audio Q40                       *64 ohms*
KOSS Prodj200                     *38 ohms * 
Creative Aurvana Live 2        *32 ohms*
Sennheiser PX 100-II            * 32 ohms*
Panasonic RP-HTF600-S       * 56 ohms   *
KOSS KSC75                          * 60 ohms*
KOSS KSC35                           *60 ohms*

The official Manual says:

*Suitable Headphone impedance: 30 ohms - 600 ohms*


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## 5h0l3e5

Sam21 said:


> Since this amp has an output impedance of 10 ohms, does it match well with the following headphones:?
> 
> Sennheiser HD58x              *150 ohms*
> AKG K701                           * 63 ohms*
> ...


For 80 ohms and above, you wouldn't have any problem.

For under 80 ohms, if the impedance curve of the headphones is flat, you can run them with T1SE. Most planar headphones have flat impedance curve. The sound signature of some dynamic headphones which are under 80 ohms would change since their impedance curve isn't usually flat.

About power, T1SE can run almost all dynamic headphones. Your list doesn't have any hard to drive dynamic headphones.
For planars like T50RPMK3, the amp may distort at high volume. Not many amps can drive T50RPMK3 at high volume.

From the list, You wouldn't have any problem running these at moderate volume:

Sennheiser HD58x
AKG K701
Hifiman HE-400
Fostex T50RPMK3
Grado SR225i (about 0.5 db increase around 70hz. Shouldn't be noticeable)
Creative Aurvana Live 2 (about 0.7 db increase around 40hz. Shouldn't be noticeable)
Sennheiser PX 100-II (about 0.8 db increase around 60hz. Shouldn't be noticeable)

If These headphones use the same driver as Porta Pro, the sound signature would change:
KOSS KSC75
KOSS KSC35
About 0.8 db around 100hz. Would be noticeable, I think.

I don't know about the else.


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## fufula

I've owned the T1SE for a little over a year now. I've noticed a while ago that there's an issue with channel balance at lower volumes. Anything below 35-40% volume will make the left channel quieter than the right one. The lower the volume gets, the bigger the imbalance becomes with the left channel losing pretty much all sound when it gets below 5% while the right one is still working. I've tested this with different gain settings, headphones, tubes, players.

I normally run it at the lowest gain setting and usually listen at 40-50% volume, but when I want to just listen to something that's chill and sort of in the background, I'm getting dangerously close to that place where the sound might start getting screwy. It bothers me a little bit. What do I do? I hear the customer support at Aune ain't that great. Can I replace it?


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## audiofrog

I have an Aune T1 and DT 770 80 Ohms.

 Im not interested in purchasing a new amp and trying to optimize my work audio setup (im unable to download EQ software)

Do you know if I could use both the Aune T1 Tube DAC and AMP with a Schiit Loki mini+ (would need to use both inputs and outputs on the devices to do this if its possible) or if I would ONLY be able to use the Tube Dac Outputs from the Aune T1 to the Loki and would need to route it to a separate amp. 

Has anyone tried this? 

Thank you in advance!


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## penmarker

The Aune does not support analog in, only analog out so you wouldn't be able to use the Loki with the headphone stage of the Aune. You'll need to route it to a separate amp.

Hope this helps!


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## Illbetheone

penmarker said:


> The Aune does not support analog in, only analog out so you wouldn't be able to use the Loki with the headphone stage of the Aune. You'll need to route it to a separate amp.
> 
> Hope this helps!


I came here looking for this, how would this work with an Aune T1 and then get a Magni Heresy and a Loki+?


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## joeq70

Illbetheone said:


> I came here looking for this, how would this work with an Aune T1 and then get a Magni Heresy and a Loki+?


Very simple. USB > T1 > T1 RCA Line Out > Loki > Magni


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## lwrs10

You know, I'm 20+ dacs past the 'ol T1 days, and dusted off the old T1 a few days ago and hooked it up. 

Long story short, I've wasted a lot of money since then. I should've stayed with just this T1 and been happy. Some of the upgrades I bought are without a doubt better, but this 'ol girl just sound so damn SMOOTH.


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## lwrs10

CoiL said:


> ------





Salvatore said:


> ------





arcorob said:


> -------



You guys still around? If so, still using the T1? Or if not, what did ya'll upgrade to?


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## joeq70

I use the T1 v4 still! Sold the Denafrips Ares 2 after comparing.


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## CoiL

lwrs10 said:


> You guys still around? If so, still using the T1? Or if not, what did ya'll upgrade to?


T1 v1 still up and running! Btw, if You can get one in aftermarked - strongly recommend to get it cheap and modify with new opamps and capacitors, it can get REALLY good with proper tube. Look at my profile to get more info about mods


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## PST93

Cheesedoodle said:


> Anyone familiar with Aune's new version — the T1s 4th Gen? Looks like it might be a nice upgrade. I only see it online in a few places, and very little info online about it generally. Currently looks a lot more expensive than its predecessor (around $500).


Well, a bit late, but I own it. I paired it with Genalex Gold Lion E88CC - sound was very clear, detailed, too much IMO, but the lamp itself stop playing at left channel after few months of using - Russian quality I think...

So I bought old Czechoslovakia Tesla's from 1969 - the sound become warm, much more musically finished instead being detailed. So fun, so good and pleasure to listen, I bought as a reserve two more Tesla's, remembering, how short Genalex works... Probably it was not necessary, old one's don't want to break, no matter how long I listen to them  

About T1s - unluckly, I don't to much experience with other DAC/AMPs. I love this one - music is wider, have more air and space, than from my LG V50 ThinkQ. And still - more detailed. Very smooth. Don't work too good with highly effective headphones, ~30Ohms. I am using 75 Ohms impedence plug permanently - doing his miracle.

Probably the T1s is way better DAC/AMP than someone could think - and, at other side, not as good as someone could think... I think it's superb in terms of "giving music more music", making sound fuller, richer, warmer, super pleasant to listen. Still - detailed.

Important info - changing lamp has huge impact on the sound. I was surprised, because I've read that lamp is only to make small impact on the sound, colorized it's a bit. Well, I've noticed very clear difference with Genalex, Tesla and Electro-Harmonix lamps.

Bluetooth is really useful, I like to listen from my phone in silent.
Aune T1s works great with Ultrasone Edition Eleven. Highly reccomend.

Well, I really think I did good choice, buying this instead of X1s


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## yaps66

PST93 said:


> Well, a bit late, but I own it. I paired it with Genalex Gold Lion E88CC - sound was very clear, detailed, too much IMO, but the lamp itself stop playing at left channel after few months of using - Russian quality I think...
> 
> So I bought old Czechoslovakia Tesla's from 1969 - the sound become warm, much more musically finished instead being detailed. So fun, so good and pleasure to listen, I bought as a reserve two more Tesla's, remembering, how short Genalex works... Probably it was not necessary, old one's don't want to break, no matter how long I listen to them
> 
> ...


Congratulations on your new acquisition and so happy to see you enjoying it! It is so underrated!


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## chrisssj2

Im re-installing windows 11.. and it can't find drivers for my AUNE T1 MK 2 (or 3 not sure).... the official aune website drivers are offline.. can someone please help I have no audio now :*(


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## yaps66

chrisssj2 said:


> Im re-installing windows 11.. and it can't find drivers for my AUNE T1 MK 2 (or 3 not sure).... the official aune website drivers are offline.. can someone please help I have no audio now :*(


Not sure if this will work for you.


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## chrisssj2

yaps66 said:


> Not sure if this will work for you.


unfortunately my device is still yellow in device manager as "aune DFU" Also after installing this driver you sent, i can't seem to find the uninstaller... very strange...


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## yaps66

chrisssj2 said:


> unfortunately my device is still yellow in device manager as "aune DFU" Also after installing this driver you sent, i can't seem to find the uninstaller... very strange...


sorry to hear that. I used that driver on windows 11 with my T1s without any issues. not sure if @AuneAudio can chime in to assist


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## chrisssj2

yaps66 said:


> sorry to hear that. I used that driver on windows 11 with my T1s without any issues. not sure if @AuneAudio can chime in to assist


And you don't have yellow device in device manager? You have MK2 or MK 3?


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## yaps66

chrisssj2 said:


> And you don't have yellow device in device manager? You have MK2 or MK 3?


I bought mine last year.  I think it is the T1s 4 Gen


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## lwrs10

Just checking in. 

I've purchased 50+ other dacs and amps since the old T1 days. I've extensivly compared many many others to the Aune T1. Do some sound better? For sure. But the ones that do are 3-4x the price. I think I prefer the T1 over my Cayin stuff even, like my hotrodded HA-1A and my iHA-6. 

I still use my T1 daily. Paired with some Hifiman XS and Meze Lirics most of the time. 

I have, however, stepped up the mods to my T1. First, I swapped the 5532 opamp in the headphone amp section to an OPA2134. I changed the coupling caps out to some Russian PIO, then bypassed them with some small films. I moved the rectifier section of the power supply to the wall wart. And a few other little things.


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## penmarker

How did you make everything fit? And how does the OPA2134 sound?


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## lwrs10 (Jan 4, 2023)

penmarker said:


> How did you make everything fit? And how does the OPA2134 sound?



Carefully haha.

The OPA2134, to me, sounds MUCH smoother and more detailed than the stock NE5532. The opamp in the main board for the RCA in/out is already an OPA2134 btw. 

You would need a hot air setup to swap this one though.


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## Mark the Red

Just as an FYI, I have scientifically confirmed that the T1 Aune defintely has a ground problem on its original version.   I kept getting ground noises in my headphones, PC, adjacent electronics, speakers for anything connected to or using my PC.   Turns out its the USB connection on the thing is grounding the power surge protector / AC  adapter EVEN WHEN ITS TURNED OFF.   I noticed it by accident when I physically unplugged only the USB cable which made the problem go away 100%.

As I love this thing, I made a modification which 100% solved the problem.  I physically grounded the damn thing to my main computer / chassis / equipment rack.  See pictures.  I've been reading a lot USB failures being caused by Aune on computers around the web and I can 100% believe it to be true with what I found out.   I screwed the ground to a PCB screw in the middle of the  unit and drilled a hole in the bottom frame to allow it to sit flat with a 12awg wire coming out.

Normally I would have chucked a malfunctioning designed electronic into the fiery chasm from whence it came over this, but I just love this thing and have been using it for 8+ years now aside from this problem.    Just as an FYI.


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## lwrs10 (Tuesday at 9:42 PM)

Mark the Red said:


> Just as an FYI, I have scientifically confirmed that the T1 Aune defintely has a ground problem on its original version.   I kept getting ground noises in my headphones, PC, adjacent electronics, speakers for anything connected to or using my PC.   Turns out its the USB connection on the thing is grounding the power surge protector / AC  adapter EVEN WHEN ITS TURNED OFF.   I noticed it by accident when I physically unplugged only the USB cable which made the problem go away 100%.
> 
> As I love this thing, I made a modification which 100% solved the problem.  I physically grounded the damn thing to my main computer / chassis / equipment rack.  See pictures.  I've been reading a lot USB failures being caused by Aune on computers around the web and I can 100% believe it to be true with what I found out.   I screwed the ground to a PCB screw in the middle of the  unit and drilled a hole in the bottom frame to allow it to sit flat with a 12awg wire coming out.
> 
> Normally I would have chucked a malfunctioning designed electronic into the fiery chasm from whence it came over this, but I just love this thing and have been using it for 8+ years now aside from this problem.    Just as an FYI.


Out of the many many different combinations I've had mine hooked up in, not once did I have an issue.

I'm talking literally HUNDREDS of different combinations. From computers and my phones/tablets as a source to many different amps, preamps, and even in my cars, not once have I had an issue.

And I own 3 of them, all 3 work perfectly.

The original T1 does NOT have a ground issue.

Either the specific one you have has an issue or something else you have does.

I did see an issue when I tried it at someone's house that had an electrical wiring issue. Turned out they had a floating neutral and all the current was going through their ground. That would be my first thought. Might want to get one of those super cheap outlet testers and try it.


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## Mark the Red

lwrs10 said:


> Out of the many many different combinations I've had mine hooked up in, not once did I have an issue.
> 
> I'm talking literally HUNDREDS of different combinations. From computers and my phones/tablets as a source to many different amps, preamps, and even in my cars, not once have I had an issue.
> 
> ...


Your experiences are welcome.  I've been around home theater electronics long enough to know what a ground loop is, and how to isolate the cause.  The circuit I am using this on is properly installed EMT with 12 ga wire and no floating neutral issues.

This guy has the same problem apparently.  I ran through several reddit posts showing USB port failures I can share with you.  I would wager it makes sense that the USB ports are slowly failing if its getting the 1A ground for the PSU through its sleeve.
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/aun...-faq-updated-on-02-14-15.633006/post-15588754

My PSU  is the proprtietary T1-1504 version so maybe thats it.  I  know that when a piece of electronics is causing a ground loop even when powered off, it is a design issue, not a glitch issue.  Its shouldn't run hot like this in a powered off state through the USB port.   Thats just wrong.  Ground loops I've seen in the past only materialize when the component is on.  

I made this post to show how to fix it, and not to sully the reputation of Aune.  I know and am certain I am not alone on this. 

I bought the Aune because at the time (and still) is the only aesthetically looking desktop DAC / headphone amp that had RCA outs on the back with a comfy volume dial.    I am still happy with despite having to modify it.

I am happy your Aunes all work perfect.   You can just skim past my post and leave it to the others with issues,


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