# Power Conditioning / Surge Protection



## jude

What are you all using for power conditioning / surge protection? I currently have my SCD-C333ES and HeadRoom Max plugged into a Tripp-Lite Isotel surge suppressor. However, upon reading about MOV (metal oxide varistor)-based surge suppressors on Audio Asylum, and then at Brick Wall, I decided to order a Brick Wall model PW8R15AUD while it was still available for US$50.00 off for the month of June (I got it for US$249.00, down from US$299.00).




 This picture shows the front (top) and rear (bottom) of the unit.
 (Click on image to enlarge it)

 Of course, I'll let you all know what I think of it after it has been in my system a little while. For their audio power conditioners/surge suppressors, Brick Wall offers a 30-day money back guarantee.

 Though it also conditions the lines through filtering, my main interest is the surge suppression. My rig wouldn't be cheap to replace, so I wanted the best available surge suppression I could find that also had a reputation for not negatively affecting the sound quality of hi-fi systems. The Brick Walls are very well reviewed, and many even state that their systems sounded better after hooking them up to Brick Wall suppressor / conditioners. Once it arrives, I'll move my second-string Isotel to the office for my office rig.

 Check out Brick Wall's site for some interesting reading on power conditioner / surge suppression.

 Anyone else here have experience with Brick Wall units? Or any other power conditioner / surge suppressors?

 Your input would be greatly appreciated.


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## MooGoesTheCow

I have a Monster Cable HTS-2000 line conditioner which I couldn't be more happy with. It has 12 outlets, 6 switchable and 6 non. 2 outlets for high power amps, and the rest for every other imaginable audio source. 

 Although if lightning struck, I figure everything will get fried, however the surge protection gives me some peace of mind knowing my mucho expensive audio gear is safe.

 Also, it does help filter out yucky 60hz hum and nasties back in my apartment, where I'm sure we all share the same line, thus making power not always the cleanest.

 I got it online new for about $130 shipped...and for me that's a good deal. I have no doubt heavier duty, more expensive conditioners may improve the sound more, but for the price, the Monster Cable does the job and does it well.


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## morphsci

I use a graded system throughout the house. First, I have a whole house surge suppressor/filter that works before the main breaker box. Next each of the computers has a UPS/conditioner that protects each device and also limits the amount of EMI hash they can inject into the house mains. Each televison is on a tripplite conditioner/suppressor or a UPS/conditioner depending on the associated devices such as SAT receivers and VCR's. Again, this helps limit the EMI flow into the mains. Source components for music are pluged into an Adcom Ace-515. The 515 is plugged into a Tripplite line conditioner. Each circuit on the Tripp-Lite is isolated from the others so the home theater components are plugged directly into the Tripp-Lite. Since the HT processor connects through the preamp via a processor loop I can maintain a clean signal and power path when I only want to listen to music. The power amps are plugged into a separate ACE-515 which is also plugged into a seperate Tripp-Lite power conditioner. Additinal HT componnets are plugged directly into this conditioner also. I like the 515's since they can be interconnected to have auto turn-on and delayed turn-on of components with a single switch. Since my power amps and preamp do not have remote turn-on capability, this can be very nice. I was intrigued with the brick-wall info and may look into it in more detail. Thanks for the post.


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## Apheared

I use 1400 & 2000VA true sinewave online UPSs. Big one for computers little one for audio gear. About $700-1000. But it's the cleanest power in this building. Unlike a conditioner it's always running off battery, not just boosting during sags. it's bascially a super-duper conditioner with battery power.

 BTW, almost all nice surge supressors, even the $50 ones, have isolated grounds. Should tack $300 to them and the words "Ground Loop Eliminator" to the box and target them at audiophiles.

 And hey, if the power ever went out it's a large enough unit to run a small fridge for 10 hours, or a radio and a couple lights for days.

 Check out APC, MinuteMan, Tripp-Lite... lots of people make them and they're fairly competitive for a specific VA rating.

 And you can always DIY one. Got a spare closet in the basement? With an inverter & charge controller and 100 12V car batteries you can build one SERIOUS UPS for under $10k 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Throw in a deisel generator and you're ready for grid failure!

 (so I'm an isolationist in training)


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## morphsci

Quote:


 _Originally posted by Apheared _
*And you can always DIY one. Got a spare closet in the basement? With an inverter & charge controller and 100 12V car batteries you can build one SERIOUS UPS for under $10k 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Throw in a deisel generator and you're ready for grid failure!

 (so I'm an isolationist in training) * 
 

ROFLMAO. You are the ultimate DIYer!


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## jude

Apheared,

 I know who'll be laughing if New York ever has rolling blackouts. You're just begging for a new funny user name.






 Okay, now I've got a question for you. Did you check out the Brick Wall web site? Is there anything special about that device as a surge suppressor? Do you know of any devices that work on similar principles (and that are MOV-less) that don't cost, say, $250?

 I was interested in a PS Audio power regeneration unit -- I figured it was similar to an online UPS in that it actually takes power from the wall outlet and cleans it up and _then_ delivers it. I understand that the PS Audio products are _not_ like online UPS's in that they don't use batteries, and shut down when the power goes out. What had me _not_ selecting the PS Audio products was the obviously higher price of even their smallest unit, and that my biggest concern is the suppression of surges.

 Apheared, your comments -- and anyone else here too -- would be very welcome. And if it's not too much trouble, if you could kindly review the Brick Wall site briefly to make some comments on their methods versus more standard surge suppressors, I'd certainly appreciate that too. Though I already ordered one, I'm still seeking opinions.

 -- Jude --


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## Tides

My xcanv2 ( and my dvd/vd players) are plugged in my
 Smart-UPS 700 by APC. It was onsale few monthes ago and I picked up 2 =) ( was like 40 bucks off reg price)

 and I dedicate one just for my cdp/dvd player , xcanv2 and the SOON TO BE HERE Denon 370 will also be plug into this.

 I dont know if the X-psu by MF is better than this, but I doubt it 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 This is why I basically gave up on hunting down a X-psu.

 you can read more info on my universal power system here

http://www.apc.com/resource/include/...CountryCode=US

 I never worry when the light flickers or goes out =) I finish up that email or post then I shut down . It is great to have stable current flowing at all time with some extra juice fo reply more threads !






 sometimes I even browse more threads since I can!

 Tides


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## jude

Tides,

 There are two types of UPS units that I'm aware of: the kind that kicks in when the power goes out, and the kind that actually does that _and_ conditions the power through some sort of active power regeneration even when the power doesn't go out.

 I believe the Smart-UPS 700 by APC is one of the former -- I also use Smart-UPS units for all my computers. There is line filtering, but I'm not sure that the Smart-UPS 700 does exactly what the X-PSU was intended to do (deliver regulated power specific to the demands of the X-CAN), especially when the power's not out.

 From the literature:

  Quote:


 The UPS detects line voltage distortions such as spikes, notches, dips, and swells, as well as distortions caused by operation with inexpensive fuel-powered generators. By default, the UPS reacts to distortions by transferring to on-battery operation to protect the loads. Where power quality is poor, the UPS may frequently transfer to on-battery operation. If the loads can operate normally under such conditions, battery capacity and service life may be conserved by reducing the sensitivity of the UPS. 
 

So it reads as though there's switching involved, whereas an online UPS I believe is entirely regenerating the power regardless of line conditions in.

 I would be interested in such a device (like the PS Audio units or Apheared's online UPS's), but they're quite costly, and some swear that such devices may actually have deleterious sonic effects, though I don't quite understand how that'd be if the units are regenerating a stable sine wave.

 As a result, I decided to look for a more affordable option: a highly effective surge suppressor with a reputation for _not_ negatively affecting the sonics of my headphone system (which is how I somehow ended up ordering a Brick Wall unit). It's easier with a headphone rig, as there are no gigatntic amps demanding loads and loads of current, but the way of the audiophile -- headphone rig or speaker rig -- is rarely inexpensive.

 I'm no electrical engineer, so, again, I'd appreciate any comments about the design concepts behind the Brick Wall, and why, if for any good reason, it has earned a reputation for being a very good audiophile surge suppressor.


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## morphsci

Jude you are absolutely correct. I use APC's and blackout busters at home and at work. They use line current when available and do not run off battery unless the line voltage drops below some predetermined level that is set in the unit. The units that do active regulation at all times, like those described and used by Apheared are usually much more expensive than the typical UPS.


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## bootman

I found a link for some online ups.
 Prices are not bad.

http://www.provantage.com/FP_52278.HTM

 Anyone have any experiences with this make?


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## jude

Quote:


 _Originally posted by bootman _
*I found a link for some online ups.
 Prices are not bad.

http://www.provantage.com/FP_52278.HTM

 Anyone have any experiences with this make? * 
 

Wow, bootman, that is quite an interesting link. I am looking at those very seriously, trying to find a reason to not buy one.

 Can someone here offer any good reason why an online UPS/conditioner like these would _not_ be good for audiophile equipment?


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## jude

My Brick Wall just arrived. Very nice, simple unit. I don't know if there are any audible differences yet, as I've not listened to it at all (it _just_ arrived).

 One thing that is very impressive about it is that it emits _VERY low_ AC magnetic field and AC electrical field emissions (as measured with my AlphaLab Broadband TriField Meter), which means I feel very comfortable putting this unit directly above my HeadRoom Max (about 3.5" above it actually). I mean, even with the AlphaLab meter placed directly against any of the Brick Wall's sides, there's virtually no reading above ambient at all.

 It is also very quiet -- even with my ear directly on it, there is no detectable hum.

 I'm going to take the ferrite cores and rings off my audio equipment power cords now, and see if this Brick Wall can also eliminate the noise from my sump pump and refrigerator (the sump pump being, by far, the biggest offender of all my appliances).

_Now_ I feel safe leaving my stuff on all the time. Listening in a thunderstorm may be a reality now.

 I'll report on any (if any) effects on the sound.


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## MacDEF

>I dont know if the X-psu by MF is better than this, but I doubt it 
 >This is why I basically gave up on hunting down a X-psu.

 Except that they do two completely different things. The X-PSU is basically an outboard power supply for the X-components. It filters the power going to X-ponents, but it also stores up much more power than the wall warts so that your X-CAN can handle even the harshest transients in the material you're listening to.


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## lini

jude: I wouldn't try that - lightnings are really fast. A direct hit into your house or the near neighbourhood usually results in both damaged equipment and damaged surge protectors. They are better than nothing, though. But for perfect protection you have to build cascaded transformers - that is expensive and waists a lot of energy. Oh, and by the way, the typical ups-kind is called line-interactive - it will only go online (= switch to batteries), when the voltage is below a certain limit.

 Greetings from Munich!

 Manfred / lini


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## lini

jude: I've been thinking a while about two points, that might be worth considering.

 I know that line-interaktive ups models produce a more rectangualar output in battery mode, whereas online ups models usually produce a nice sinus. But I don't remember, whether this is a must - maybe when it says line conditioner, too. So you'd probably want to make sure that your desired online model has a nice sinus output in order to avoid distortion.

 The other thing has to do with grounding. I'd suspect that chances are good to get additional hum with an ups, if you can't connect all electrically connected devices in your audio-chain to that ups, because it might cause a slightly different ground potential. So you might also want to make sure that your model has enough wattage for that.

 I hope that doesn't spoil the fun...

 Manfred / lini


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## mskeen

I use a Tice Solo A/V Power Conditioner and to be honest, I don't know if it uses MOVs. I've been afraid to open it for fear of the warranty but I'm thinking about getting out the screwdriver as I type. I'll attack it tomorrow and let everyone know what's going on inside waranty or no waranty. That Brickwall site seems to be very informative unlike the other manufactorers so they get points for being honest.

 I will say I have felt better about plugging my gear into the Tice but now I'm not sure. Also, I just bought a Naim Cd player that wasn't so cheap so I want to be very careful with it plugged in, it thunderstorms non-stop here.

 Matt


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## jude

lini,

 I know there are no guarantees, but this Brick Wall gives me more confidence than any other reasonably priced surge protection device I've read about.

 Check out these links:

How it works

No failures

 Also interesting is this from the manual: Quote:


 On February 6, 1996, our product passed to Grade A, Class 1, Mode 1 performance, upon initial testing at UL (no redesign, no failures). The test was 1,000 surges of 6,000 volts, and 3,000 amperes with a measured supressed voltage not exceeding 290 volts. Our product was the first product in the USA to pass the tests to Grade A, Class 1, Mode 1 performance level.


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## lini

jude: Oh, don't misunderstand me - that Brick Wall sure looks like a serious product. And, of course, the probability that a lightning will strike your house or the direct neighbourhood is less than that a lightning strike will happen a little farther away, because it's a wider area, too. So a surge protector isn't a bad idea.

 But some people might believe, they'd be totally safe with a surge protector, even when the lightning strikes very close - and this usually isn't true. I probably should have said "way better than nothing" instead of just "better than nothing"... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Nevertheless I get very nervous when a thunderstorm comes closer than one mile: I usually unplug my antenna and isdn, switch off almost everything but the fridge and - if it looks like lots of lightning, I also disconnect the power plugs. I once lost a modem due to a thunderstorm, so I try to avoid any more victims. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Manfred / lini


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## jude

lini,

 Usually, the moment I hear thunder, I start unplugging my audio equipment. I'll likely wait until it sounds real close with the new surge protector before I start unplugging my stereo equipment.

 Another improvement I'm finding a bit unexpectedly is an immediate sonic improvement with the Brick Wall. Could be because my power here seems a bit dirty and the unit is cleaning it up a bit. I'll post a quick follow-up post regarding what I'm finding.


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## ai0tron

Tides,

 Plugging your XcanV2 into an apc UPS will do next to NOTHING. I tried it, I have an apc UPS for my computer, they are surge protectors and battery back up units. They also help smooth out big spikes but outside of that the power they deliver is not much different than a wall outlet or your typical surge protector. It doesnt deliver power, it just passes it along. The xpsu delivers refined and stable power.


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## Tides

xpsu is not easy to find here in USA tho ........................

 Otherwise I would have pick one up long ago!

 Too bad MF does not sell directly *sigh*

 Tides


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## lini

jude: Yes, that seems to be a good plan. It's similar to what I do: You probably know the old method - one second between lighning and thunder translates to ~ 2 miles. That's when I start to watch the situation... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 And do you have an oscilloscope? You could try to compare between the wall outlet and the Brick Wall, then. Maybe it's even visible...

 Greetings from Munich!

 Manfred / lini


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## Apheared

Jude, sorry bud... forgot this thread. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Brick wall looks like it'll do exactly what it's supposed to. Could you get the same protection for less? Hmm. Yea, probably. But not by much. You didn't get ripped off. A nice device.

 re: lightning storms, heh I wouldn't. things that hit close, I mean a bolt in your front yard... I dunno man, I've seen smoked UPSs. (there's a site if I can find it that'll curl your hair - photos of destroyed gear supposedly protected) Considering 10kV will jump a few inches, how about several million? no joy. turn it off. unplug it if you're paranoid.

 re: those Minuteman UPSs, they work fine. I've deployed them, their shutdown software isn't as cool as APCs but we're not talking about protecting a server pit here.

 standby and line interactive types work very well, they switch in milliseconds.. but if you want a true online (continually running on batteries)... the catch being the batteries are freakin expensive and need replacing much sooner being on constantly. So if the unit costs ya $1000, but new batteries every 2 years costs $350, you better WANT this protection. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Some companies like APC and TrippLite everyone's heard of... some that make excellent units that you'll never see outside of the IT world are worth checkin out for you non-computer geeks.. like MGE and Exide (err, Powerware).


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## jude

Apheared, thanks for the response and advice. As it turns out, there was the threat of thunderstorms here yesterday, and since I was leaving for most of the day, I took your advice (and lini's) and unplugged the whole dang thing since I wasn't going to be there.


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## jude

Well now this is getting interesting, this Brick Wall surge protector.

 The Brick Wall appear to successfully block noise generated by my sump pump and refrigerator even _after_ I removed the ferrite loops and clips that I needed before the Brick Wall (I had my SCD-C333ES and HeadRoom Max plugged into an Isotel 4 surge protector, and the sump and fridge noise would still get through without the ferrite loops and clips).

 What's most interesting, though, is that I think that this device is starting to convince me that there's definitely something to power conditioning. Though it isn't a power regenerator like _online_ UPS units and the PS Audio series of Power Plants, the Brick Wall does provide significant filtering of EMI/RFI line contamination. This filtering, the well-isolated outlets and the unit's snubber, which is designed to quell fast in-building surges -- in combination with my careful routing of my cables -- seems to have yielded instant sonic improvements. Long story short (for now), whatever the Brick Wall is doing, it has so far (to my ears) resulted in enhanced clarity and low-level detail (particularly noticeable with Thelonius Monk's _Straight, No Chaser_ SACD, Patricia Barber's _Nightclub_ and my Marc-Andre Hamelin piano CD's). I'm going to do more comparisons with the system as it was previously set up (with the Isotel) so that I might be able to better describe the differences I'm hearing. 

 Regarding the outlet isolation of the unit: With my Isotel, when I'd plug certain devices into it (along with my audio rig), I could hear switching noises through my headphones when these other devices were turned on and off. This does not happen with the Brick Wall -- the outlet isolation seems far more effective with it than the Isotel.

 I should note, by the way, that the power in my house appears to be anything _but_ audiophile ideal, so improvements may come easier here than in some homes.

 Again, I've not really been one to buy into the sonic benefits of power conditioning, and now this...

 What's next? One of those fancy shmancy power cords? Oy....probably.

 More to come....


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## jude

I saw a unit on Audiogon called the Niles IPC-12 that I thought some of you might be interested in. It's a power conditioner / surge protector that looks functionally more complex than the Brick Wall. Here is a nice pic of it:






 It's on auction, and the current price is very reasonable.

 My only concern with the unit, based on the information in this auction listing, is that there appears to be no mention of isolated outlets. They may very well be isolated, but I don't believe it says that anywhere. If they were isolated outlets, then this could be a very interesting find indeed.


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## bootman

Here is the pdf of the owner's manual:
http://www.nilesaudio.com/pdffiles/manuals/ipc12.pdf


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## jude

bootman, thanks for posting that link to the manual. I read the whole thing, but it doesn't mention anything about the outlets being isolated. Nevertheless, it looks like a pretty cool device.


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## pearle

I think I might pick one of those Brick Wall units....it's still on for $249.

 Jude, any new revelations since you bought it? Its' been a while...


 - pearle


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## jude

Quote:


 _Originally posted by pearle _
*I think I might pick one of those Brick Wall units....it's still on for $249.

 Jude, any new revelations since you bought it? Its' been a while...


 - pearle * 
 


 pearle,

 Please understand that my answers may be largely based on the fact that the electrical circuit my rig is on seems to be susceptible to line noise from things like my air conditioning, sump pump, and refrigerator (your line might be better already). I bought it more for its surge protection ability (Brick Wall units seem to be among those held in the highest regard for its ability to suppress surges), but was very pleasantly surprised to get more low level detail from my rig with the Brick Wall in place. I think there are a couple of reasons for this:
 The Brick Wall has well-isolated isolated receptacles. A halogen lamp that (prior to acquiring the Brick Wall) would cause an audible electrical click through my headphones when switched on -- when plugged into the same wall receptacle my rig was plugged into -- no longer causes any noise _even when plugged into the Brick Wall *with* the rig_.
 Related to the above point, the unit's EMI/RFI filtering is, I'm assuming, pretty good, because my refrigerator -- and especially my sump pump -- would put audible noise in the line when they'd switch on and off. I had to use ferrite cores to tame the noise (which worked pretty well). With the Brick Wall, I was able to remove all the ferrite cores, and the line noises are still gone.

 Because of these things, my system's noise floor has been lowered noticeably, and, as a result, details and subtle nuances are coming through clearly better with it than without it. The surge protection is very reassuring, and worth the $250 I paid for it (considering the value of my rig). The sonic benefits are gravy, and I'll take 'em.

 The next step I'm looking at is balanced power. I'm seriously looking into it now (been asking questions on Audio Asylum too).


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## Budgie

I have a Tice Solo a/v same as mskeen. Maybe I have really clean juice where I live, as I can't hear any difference without it. Of course I can hit the substation I'm on, with a rock, from my front door I'm so close. And if you read this mskeen, The Solo has two rivets that have to be drilled out to remove the cover. Don't bother doing it, you will be disappointed. A few inductors, a handefull of caps and a couple MOV's.


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## pearle

Yeah,

 I've been looking at some of the equipment that PS Audio sells (found the link at Audio Asylum). I'm wondering if the Ultimate Outlet will provide me any benefit (their other products costs considerably more..$1200+). One thing I've noticed is that my monitor (22" Mitsubishi) has quite a bit of distortion (wierd waves flickering across the screen). This is also the case with my 19" viewsonice. If this is, indeed, a fault of my power supply it must be making an negative impact on my audio equipment as well. 

 I have to get some sort of surge surpression anyway so I ordered a Brick Wall. The little dinky surge protector I currently have in front of my audio equpment isn't the most reassuring and certainly doesn't provide isolation.

 Jude, where is your discussion about balanced power on Audio Asylum? I would like to follow it but I can't seem to find it.

 - pearle


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## jude

Audio Asylum discussion on power conditioning


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## pearle

*slaps head* 

 Didn't notice the Tweakers Asylum 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Thanks Jude


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## mc whak

Tripp-lite IBR-12. 

 Noise Suppression; BASIC (6 outlets): @20KHz - 20db, @1MHz - 40db. ENHANCED (4 outlets): @20KHz - 40db, @1MHz - 75db.

 Can't complain, it was free.


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## mskeen

I went to take my Tice apart, found those rivets and just decided to leave them in. Kinda makes you wonder why they put them there? I think you just explained it with your description of the inside.

 I will say this though. Where I am when my neighbor's air conditioning kicks on it makes my lights dim for a second but I can't hear it through my stereo. So I think the Tice helps somewhat but I haven't tried it without it either.

 I would like to pick up a PS Audio P300 to see if that changes anything. There are a couple drawbacks to the buying the P300 for me though. 1) I don't have dealer nearby to buy and take it back if it doesn't help (and ordering direct costs me too much shipping if I decide to return it), 2) The cost is way to high for me, and 3) Used might be cheaper but what about warranty service if I need it. Has anyone gone over to Audiogon.com and looked at how many used P300's there are for sale in the classifed section of the Power catagory? That too makes me question buying one.


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## pearle

Have you looked into PS Audio's Ultimate Outlet?

 - pearle


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## taoster

sorry for dragging up a very old thread but i didn't really wanted to create a new one.

 I been looking at surge protections/filters when I came across APC voltage regulator. 

 I understand most UPS are considered bad in its ability to construct sine waves but how about a computer voltage regulator? has anyone have any experience or comment on why this may not be a good surge/filter for audio.

 btw i live in australia so many of the other power product discussed can not be used.


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## dngl

Harmonic discord had a great discussion of it.
http://www.harmonicdiscord.com/forum...ic=606&forum=5


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## fredpb

I have been using a Brickwall Surge suppressor for years. They are wonderful units. I don't care what the price is, MOV based units cannot match the series mode suppressors, and I don't care what their brand is or how much they cost. 

 Many "power conditioners" condition your wallet to make it thinner, without any real value except the false confidence a high price and pretty box provide.

 I did notice an improvement in sound immediately when I installed my Brickwall. I did not expect anything like that, but perhaps it was my imagination.

 NO noise comes into my system through the Brickwall. Used to have various noises, but now, none.

 Everyone who has any good set of electronics should use Brickwall. It also gives outstanding EMI filtering, because the main component is a big inductor/choke. Every house creates spikes that can damage electronics. A/C, fridge, anything with a motor especially. If you are in an apartment, you are also getting everyone elses spikes from their stuff.

 A $250 unit may be pricy for someone with just a small headphone setup. But think of the value of it if you get one failure due to a spike. This is also just about a lifetime investment. Not much in the BW to fail. 

 One weakness of BW filters: hot line protection only. Neutral is not protected.

 Worthwhile device.


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## puppyslugg

This is possibly a cheaper alternative:

http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/surge.htm


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## jbannow

Which Brick Wall are you guys using? The model 8r15 seems to be the way to go, but it is only US$190.

 - Jeff


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## fredpb

Quote:


 _Originally posted by taoster _
*sorry for dragging up a very old thread but i didn't really wanted to create a new one.

 I been looking at surge protections/filters when I came across APC voltage regulator. 

 I understand most UPS are considered bad in its ability to construct sine waves but how about a computer voltage regulator? has anyone have any experience or comment on why this may not be a good surge/filter for audio.

 btw i live in australia so many of the other power product discussed can not be used. * 
 

I don't think regular computer power backups are suitable for audio. They are just boxes to supply power for a computer in case of power failure (or have over or under voltage protection)
 with a touch of surge suppression. They are not too hot on surge protection or "conditioning". Also, the output waveform is not great stuff for audio power transformers. And most power backup units cannot supply real power for big amps. I won't put one on my system.

 For your audio gear you want current and PROTECTION. The Brickwall absolutely stomps most computer power units in surge suppression and filtering.

 But anything you put between your audio gear and the wall power socket will limit power. To get a decent regulator it will have to be huge, heavy, and very very expensive. And this does not necessarily provide EMI filtering and surge suppression.

 I have a "network" of power to my living room systems. Everything goes through one Brickwall unit. Then to a very high capacity 1500 joule big MOV type surge suppressor unit. Then it splits to two more surge suppressors, one for audio, one for video. I have no problems with power or sound, but my power amp is about 150 watts RMS per channel. 

 I think using computer power backup units for audio, well, is a no no.

 If you are unable to get a Brickwall unit (Brickwall resells the units under their name, I forget the parent companies name) in your country check around for "series mode surge suppressors".

 If you have a lot of brownouts or power problems, and can't get a good conditioner or even a regulator or battery backup, you could buy or make a little box with a relay and a reset button that would disconnect power from your system if the voltage cuts out for a brief period or a serious brownout. If the power is going to fluctuate for a few seconds or minutes, best to let it stay off anyway.

 There are also non battery type of ac voltage regulators. I remember a long time ago a "Sola" brand that was like that. It was reasonably priced, and went up to high capacities.


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## taoster

Quote:


 I don't think regular computer power backups are suitable for audio. They are just boxes to supply power for a computer in case of power failure (or have over or under voltage protection)
 with a touch of surge suppression. They are not too hot on surge protection or "conditioning". Also, the output waveform is not great stuff for audio power transformers. And most power backup units cannot supply real power for big amps. I won't put one on my system. 
 

i agree with UPS being unsuitable but the APC Voltage Regulator is not a power backup but a voltage regulator/conditioner. 
 power wouldnt be a major deterent as its main purpose is to power and protect the cd player and the headphone amp, more importantly to provide clean power without noises.

 I think you are right in your assessment in that it would not be very effective or cost worthy for audio gear. i'd probably end up purchasing a power board(zapcatcher) with filtering and protection instead.


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