# My Custom M Audio AV 40 Speaker Stands



## krosenqu

Hey all.  After looking around for desktop speaker stands that would fit my needs (~6-8" high) and not finding anything, I decided to make my own.  Here is my build thread.  I have plans in Google Sketchup if anybody is curious.
   
  Here is my current setup:

   
   
  As you can see, the speakers are on my desk.  They need to be raised about 6-8" for the tweaters to be level with my ears at sitting level.
  Here was my temporary solution lol:

   
  Also, I would like the finished wood to be Cherry to match my floor and the Moto Droid phone stand.
   
   
   
  So, here we go.  I found this wood in the basement.  There is just enough to create the stands I want (about 7" x 12').  I assume its cherry.  Maybe mohagony?  I may or may not use the shelf liner to go on the bottom between the desk and stand.

   
   
   
   
  To be continued......


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## krosenqu

Here are the stands all cut out.  I have yet to do the router for the edges.
   

   
   
  Here they are after rounding the edges with the router.
   

   
   
   
   
  The light is funny in the following pics.  They aren't actually that red yet.  I still have yet to stain them.  Thats for tomorrow


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## Armaegis

Very nice.


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## elwappo99

wow, so sharp, so clean....  wanna sell them


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## gorb

Those look great, man.  Nice job


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## ccbass

How did you attach the vertical pieces to the top and bottom?  Glue or nails?


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## krosenqu

Quote: 





ccbass said:


> How did you attach the vertical pieces to the top and bottom?  Glue or nails?


 

 I attached them with 10 x 1.5" screws.  I have a countersunk drill bit that will allow me to make the screw heads flush (or even a bit recessed) with the top and bottom of the stands. 
   
   
  I stained the stands with Minwax "Cherry" wood stain and they came out brown 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.   I had tested all of the stains I had and this was the reddest stain I had.  I didn't like it but I used it anyways because its what I had.  O well.  Can't be perfect.  I'll get some final pics after I put the clear coat on it.
   
   
   
  Just thinking...
   
  Any ideas on how to get that stain any red..er?  Redder?  More red?  There we go.  Once its stained, I think its done.  But maybe... I dono.  I should do a few test pieces.  I need to go to the store anyways so maybe I'll pick up some red stain (if there is such a thing).


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## Armaegis

Depending on the wood, you may need a second coat or will have to prime it beforehand (prime isn't quite the right word, I forget what it is). If you're trying to get a deep red, you'll probably need several applications anyways.


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## krosenqu

Quote: 





armaegis said:


> Depending on the wood, you may need a second coat or will have to prime it beforehand (prime isn't quite the right word, I forget what it is). If you're trying to get a deep red, you'll probably need several applications anyways.


 

 I may give it another coat.  However, when looking in the can after a thorough mixing, its a light brown.  Maybe over time, the reg pigments have faded in the can?  Its Minwax Cherry.
   
  Which... BTW, they dont make anymore lol.


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## Armaegis

If it's a softwood, it'll also absorb the stain differently. Best bet is really to take a piece of wood scrap to a store and ask the pros.


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## NguyenAdam

Has anyone ever bought these? I think these are overpriced...
 http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Monitor-Stands-M-Audio-Studiophile-AV-40-1-pr-/320538346304?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa1930340

 Also, how much would you be willing to charge if I asked for one of these? :]


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## krosenqu

I've had many offers so far.  Unfortunately, due to my lack of experience and patience, any dollar amount wouldn't be high enough 
   
  I'd want something like $200 for materials and labor.  Even if that price is good for you, because of my lack of experience, I wouldn't be able to guarantee a product that meets my standards or your standards.


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## gorb

$200? rofl.  the speakers are only $135 :/


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## NguyenAdam

Quote: 





krosenqu said:


> I've had many offers so far.  Unfortunately, due to my lack of experience and patience, any dollar amount wouldn't be high enough
> 
> I'd want something like $200 for materials and labor.  Even if that price is good for you, because of my lack of experience, I wouldn't be able to guarantee a product that meets my standards or your standards.


 

 Its alright I understand.


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## krosenqu

Ok, I went to Rockler today. 
   
  Thanks to the help of a fellow forum member on droid forums . net, I went with a wood dye instead of stain.  So I went with a friend to the Rockler wood store here in Hoffman Estates IL.
   
  I brought along a test piece of wood and looked though their wood dye selections.  A helpful employee even offered to do a few tests with different color dyes.  So i chose the color I liked once tested and bought it.
   
  I love it the results!  Wow!  The color is beautiful!  And thats without a clear-coat!
   
  (This picture really doesn't do it justice)

   
   
   
  Be sure to wear gloves.  I had a tiny hole in the tip of my latex glove and now my whole finger is red!  It helps when the gloves your using aren't older than you are lol.  I went and used some nitrile gloves after that little fiasco.
   
  Anyways...
   
  Here is a piece before staining:

   
   
  And then after:


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## krosenqu

Did some sanding after dying.  Water based stains and dyes tend to raise the wood fibers so its no longer smooth.  Some surface sanding is required but not too much.
   
  It lost a bit of its color after sanding.  Most of the color lost was in the wood fibers on the surface.
  The lower half of this piece was sanded:

   
   
  I used one of these.  Its amazing as it doesn't leave scratches at all. Its like steel wool wrapped around a 3M scotch-bright pad.  Just takes off enough to smooth the surface:

   
   
   
  And here is the first half of the clear coat drying.  The other side gets coated tomorrow and then I'm done!  Wahoo!
   
  As you can see, the piece on the top left of the area is my origonal test piece.  On it are Minwax Cherry, red mahogany, Cherry Wood, and redwood fence stain.  None of which are red!  And they all look the same!


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## ccbass

I am attempting to build some of these!  I could not find any 2" thick wood anywhere.  I'm using two boards of 1"x8"x6' for everything.  Pine, since it's cheap and buying nice oak or whatnot for $5-8/foot would put me in pretty deep, especially on a first attempt.
   
  Now, if I could only find some 2"x8" boards of nicer wood.


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## krosenqu

Quote: 





ccbass said:


> I am attempting to build some of these!  I could not find any 2" thick wood anywhere.  I'm using two boards of 1"x8"x6' for everything.  Pine, since it's cheap and buying nice oak or whatnot for $5-8/foot would put me in pretty deep, especially on a first attempt.
> 
> Now, if I could only find some 2"x8" boards of nicer wood.


 
  Awesome!  Be sure to post up a tread of your progress 
   
  Pine will work just fine.  You wont get as nice of a grain look but frankly, it won't really matter.  Maybe get some black wood dye or wood paint to match your speakers?  Pine looks really nice with solid primary colors.


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## ccbass

I'm going to try 3 coats of maple stain, then poly.  I'd rather keep them a wood color since a lot of my furniture, including my desk is wood or wood laminated stuff.  Have to love ikea furniture!
   
  I've actually finished gluing all of the pieces and building them.  I'm going to go stain them right now actually.


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## krosenqu

Quote: 





ccbass said:


> I'm going to try 3 coats of maple stain, then poly.  I'd rather keep them a wood color since a lot of my furniture, including my desk is wood or wood laminated stuff.  Have to love ikea furniture!
> 
> I've actually finished gluing all of the pieces and building them.  I'm going to go stain them right now actually.


 

 Sweet. just remember that with stain, 1 coat is generally enough.  Once the wood sucks up the stain, that's pretty much it.  The only thing you may do is sand and reapply for darker color.  Its the polyurethane that you want to do multiple coats of.  Apply, sand. apply, sand, apply sand.  This way it fills in all of the gaps and dips, leaving a perfectly smooth and wet looking surface.  I'm already on my... IDK, 4th coat of poly?  I keep screwing up and putting too much on so it drips and makes a mess.  I finally learned to JUST get it barely wet with poly.  Small amounts so it doesn't drip.


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## ccbass

I did a test piece of the pine with some minwax maple and found it way too faint.  Luckily my dad had some other stain in the same maple color and they came out great after 1 coat [perfect color].  However I hate how end-grain always holds the color better than the other sides.  Tomorrow is atleast two coats of poly.  1 in the early AM and then one late at night.  Repeat and they should be done by Monday. 
   
  Now...where's that computer monitor to complete the setup...hmm.


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## krosenqu

Yeah, I figured out the end grain bit a little late.  After I cut all my pieces, my dad (who is the woodworker) told me that the end grain should never be visible if possible.  Side grain is ok but I should always try to hide the end grain because it has a different color and pattern than the rest of the wood.  O well.  Its a learning process.
   
  Oh yeah, just make sure the poly is completely dry all the way through.  I'm now waiting 24 hrs between applying and sanding because I messed up the first coat.  12 hrs after applying, the poly was still tacky so it gummed up the sandpaper and rolled off the wood like the permanent adhesive from a peeled up sticker.  Wont do that again


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## ccbass

Apparently all my dad has is oil based poly.  Going to wait until tomorrow to go out and buy latex poly.  Damn. 
   
  Next time I may do a solid color.  Maybe an all black paint job then poly for a nice glossy black finish.  Definitely cheap wood though since you won't be able to see it under the black paint!
   
  I wish I could get that nice glossy black veneer look.


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## elogical

Quote: 





ccbass said:


> Apparently all my dad has is oil based poly.  Going to wait until tomorrow to go out and buy latex poly.  Damn.
> 
> Next time I may do a solid color.  Maybe an all black paint job then poly for a nice glossy black finish.  Definitely cheap wood though since you won't be able to see it under the black paint!
> 
> I wish I could get that nice glossy black veneer look.


 

 Any reason you really want to use a water base instead of oil poly? I don't have the best techniques myself but I have better luck getting a smooth finish with oil base. It lays flatter since it kind of levels out as it dries. Also seems to be easier to recoat later if you ever get a bad scratch on a piece that you need to fix


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## ccbass

Quote: 





elogical said:


> Any reason you really want to use a water base instead of oil poly? I don't have the best techniques myself but I have better luck getting a smooth finish with oil base. It lays flatter since it kind of levels out as it dries. Also seems to be easier to recoat later if you ever get a bad scratch on a piece that you need to fix


 

 I've always just used water based poly, I guess.  Maybe I'll try it out.


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## krosenqu

I finished the stands last week.  I've just been lazy about taking the finished pictures.
   
  I'll get pictures up soon.  They didn't turn out the way I would have liked.   The measurements aren't perfect and there are several scratches and nicks from screwdriver slips.  Grr... O well.  Maybe I'll sell these and with the profits buy new wood to start again.  Now that I know what I'm doing its going to be a bit easier.
   
  Any luck on your stands CCBASS?


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## ccbass

Quote: 





krosenqu said:


> I finished the stands last week.  I've just been lazy about taking the finished pictures.
> 
> I'll get pictures up soon.  They didn't turn out the way I would have liked.   The measurements aren't perfect and there are several scratches and nicks from screwdriver slips.  Grr... O well.  Maybe I'll sell these and with the profits buy new wood to start again.  Now that I know what I'm doing its going to be a bit easier.
> 
> Any luck on your stands CCBASS?


 

 They came out really great.  I still haven't poly'ed them, but that hasn't stopped me from using them.  One is a bit wobbly, however with a heavy monitor on top, no issue.  I added 4 vinyl feet to the bottom to help them from sliding and vibrating the desk.  Pictures up soon.  I'm very pleased for a first attempt.  Next time I'm just going to use red oak, and just poly, no stain. 
   
  I'm actually going to chisel out a small part in the wider part of base where the v is widest, and add an iPod dock!


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## ThumperSD

Hey OP,
   
  what are the dimensions of the wood BEFORE you routed them? I'm going to make these since my bro in law has all of the tools.


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## DocPearl

I just found these. I think they are perfect for the AV40. They are 8" high. The picture is a little decieving because it would seem that the top plate is too small for the AV40. So, M-audio dimensions 6" width x 7.25" depth.  Wood Technology top dimensions 8.5 width x 8.5 depth.  So I think that this would be perfect!
   
  You can find it online for $49. Comes in 2 different colors. Cant wait to get mine!
   
   
   
  Wood Technology FGH-8


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## krosenqu

Did you ever buy the stands, DocPearl? I'm curious what they look like with the av-40's on them.


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